Button Hole Sewing Machines.
Year: 1888

page_text: Date of Application, 6th Mar., 1888
Complete Specification Left, 5th Dec., 1888
Complete Specification Accepted, 8th Jan., 1889
Button Hole Sewing Machines.
I, JULIUS GUTMANN of No. 1. Alexanderstrasse Berlin in the German Empire,
"IMPROVEMENTS IN
Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of said invention for
SEWING MACHINES THAT ARE ADAPTED ALSO FOR USE AS BUTTON HOLE SEWING
MACHINES" to be as follows :—
In a sewing machine provided with the improvements of this invention, the needle
arm is mounted on centres fixed in two dovetail slides fitted to move along a corro-
sponding groove, and its to and fro motion is brought about by a double armed lever
jointed at one end to the said slides and actuated at the other end by a cam on the
driving spindle. Its up and down motion, on the other hand, is effected from a cam
groove formed in the driving wheel in which a pin on the lower end of the needle arm
engages. According to the kind of sewing to be done the horizontal stroke of the
needle arm is regulated by a small eccentric operated by a hand lever so as to bear
against the said double armed lever, this latter and with it the needle arm being after
the forward stroke, brought back again by a spring. This construction may be
modified in the sense that the needle arm is provided with a slot carrying a block
mounted and capable of oscillating on centres fixed in the machine frame, the length
of its stroke being also regulated by eccentric mechanism and its return stroke
effected by a spring. In both kinds of construction a set screw serves for fixing the
needle arm when the machine is to be used for ordinary sewing by tightening it
respectively against a slide or block. The construction may be further modified by
mounting the needle arm on a collar which is fixed against the machine frame and on
which the needle arm may turn, a set screw fixing it when ordinary sewing is to be
done; or the needle arm may be carried on centres in a forked bracket which in its
turn is carried on centres fixed to the frame.
By means of this invention a single needle arm is sufficient for a double stitch
sewing machine, for sewing festoon stitch, lock stitch, whip stitch and button
holes.
Dated this 6th day of March 1888
CAPITAINE & VON HERTLING,
89, Chancery Lane, London, W.C.,
Agents for the Applicant.

page_text: Improvements in Sewing Machines that are Adapted also for Use as
Button Hole Sewing Machines.
I, JULIUS GUTMANN of Alexanderstrasse, Berlin, in the German Empire,
Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement :-
This invention has for object to provide a sewing machine in which the
sewing of festoon or decorative stitch, button or eyelet hole stitch, whip stitch, as
well as the "bar" stitching of button or eyelet holes is rendered practicable by
reason of the needle arm being so arranged that in addition to its oscillating
motion requisite for forming the stitch it may have a to and fro motion in the plane
of oscillation.
Referring to the accompanying two sheets of drawings :
The needle arm B (Figs. 1 and 2) is, by means of bosses c, c² and centre
screws s, s, mounted in dovetail slides f,fi. The to and fro motion of the needle
arm is effected through double lever V mounted to oscillate at v, one arm of which
is worked from the cam G on the machine driving shaft, its other and forked arm
being in jointed connection by eyes u, u with slides f, f. By means of a suitably
formed cam groove in driving wheel in which a pin or stud in the lower end of
needle arm B slides, the corresponding and requisite up and down motion is communi-
cated to the latter. According as the button holes are to be sewn and "bar"
stitched or the stroke of the double lever V operating the sliding displacement of
needle arm B is to be increased or reduced, this lever V is regulated by means of
small hand lever h and eccentric h¹ which latter bears against it. When lever h is
turned in the direction of arrow 1 the to and fro stroke of the needle arm B is
reduced; when in the direction of arrow 2 increased. A spring t¹ fixed at the point
of oscillation and bearing against double lever V brings about the return stroke of
the needle arm after its forward movement.
This construction may however be modified, as for instance, in the manner shewn
by way of example in Figs. 3 and 4 where the needle arm is provided with a slot S
enclosing a block J mounted so as to be capable of oscillating in frame A, A', on
centre screws k, k, and on which block it may slide to and fro by the action of double
lever V₁ the stroke of which is also limited or regulated by an eccentric gl carried by
boss or eye g on the frame. A spring 6' carried on pivot 6 of lever V³, that is, at
the point of oscillation, brings about the return stroke of the needle arm after its
forward movement.
In both cases a set screw t serves for fixing the needle arm when the machine is to
be used for ordinary sewing by tightening it against a slide f (or f') or block J, as
the case may be thus preventing any to and fro movement of needle arm B.
The construction may be further modified as shewn in Fig. 5 by mounting the
needle arm on a collar screwed to the frame by the screw S and on which collar

page_text: the needle arm may turn, and also slide to and fro by the provision of a slot in
the needle arm, a set screw t fixing it when ordinary sewing is to be done; or as
shewn in Fig. 6 the needle arm is carried at o on two centres in a forked bracket k, k¹
which may oscillate on frame A.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is:
A sewing machine in which the sewing of festoon or decorative stitch, button
or eyelet hole stitch, whip stitch, as well as the "bar" stitching of button or
eyelet holes is rendered practicable by reason of the needle arm B carrying the
needle, being so arranged that in addition to its oscillating motion requisite for
forming the stitch it may have a to and fro motion in the plane of oscillation
substantially as described and shewn.
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