Year: 1886

page_text: Date of Application, 21st Oct., 1886.
Complete Left, 8th Jan., 1887.
Complete Accepted, 8th Feb., 1887.
I, FREDERICK GEORGE DRAYCOTT, of No. 24 Clipstone Street Leicester in the
county of Leicester Boot and Shoe Manufacturer do hereby declare the nature of this
invention to be as follows :-
This invention relates to an improvement in the manufacture of boots to render
them more easy and comfortable to the foot by combining the insertion of transverse
gores or Gussets in conjunction with uppers made, or shaped with one piece of leather
or such like material, and having no seams excepting the gores, and perpendicularly
up the back, or without seams at the vamp, golosh, or covering the joints, or at the
waste at the sides, and applicable to all kinds of boots having fastenings, such as
lacings or buttons, and others, for the purpose of carrying out this invention I will
severally describe the different constructions of boots applicable for this purpose In a
boot fastening up the front by being laced and commonly called, "a bal," or
"Balmoral "I take one piece of material and fix it upon a wooden block made to the
shape, or form of the frontal bone, or bend of the foot and instep, and lower part of
the leg. It is then pulled and stretched tightly towards the back, and lower sides and
secured by pins, or other suitable means, then allowed to dry, and when removed, the
front portion is blocked, the edges are then trimmed round, a slit is then cut in the
centre to the length desired to form the facings, and the eyelets are put in on either
sides. I then cut out out a narrow piece, or gore on each side and running parallel
with the facings, of about the same length, and insert one, or may be, several pieces
of clastic joined together-that it stretches, straight across the gore, and in the
direction it takes from the back to the front, at a similar angle as the facings, it is
then seamed up the back, and the upper is complete without having seams coming
over the joints, or waste, at the sides of the boot. For uppers of boots that are
fastened with buttons the same blocking operation is performed and the pattern of the
button piece is stamped or cut out, in the desired position parallel with the frontal
portion. The gores are made and inserted as before described and the buttoned boot

page_text: is completed without seams on the vamp or up the front of the leg, or golosh and only
having a seam up the back and a Tab arranged and attached under the button piece-
for a blocked boot having no fastenings other than the gores, or side springs the piece
of leather, or such like material is blocked as before described in one piece. Two
gores are then cut out, and the material inserted in a Transverse direction-in a similar
curve to the blocked frontal portion with the narrowest part coming towards the centre.
Gussets are inserted in the manner before described and the outer edges to form the
back is shaped and seamed and the boot is constructed without a Seam except up the
back. The material being in one piece, and used in the manner as described-in
combination with the transverse gores-or insertions of elastic, without having seams
in the front or sides of the boot, by these means greater ease is obtained and all the
expanding properties are brought out, and giving a perfect fit, and keeping the upper
from pressing on the front portion, and joints of the foot.
WILLIAM BESTWICK MAXFIELD,
Agent for the Applicant.

page_text: An Improvement in the Manufacture of Boots.
I, FREDERICK GEORGE DRAYCOTT, of No 24 Clipstone Street Leicester in the
county of Leicester Boot and Shoe Manufacturer do hereby declare the nature of this
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
My said Invention relates to the manufacture of boots to render them more easy
and comfortable to the foot, by combining the insertion of Transverse gores, or gussets
in conjunction with uppers made or shaped with, or out of, one piece of leather or
such like material and having no seams, excepting at the gores and perpendicularly
up the back, or without seams at the vamp, golosh, or covering the joints, or at the
waist at the sides, and applicable to all kinds of boots having fastenings, such as laces,
or Buttons and others, for the purpose of carrying out this Invention-I will
severally describe the different constructions of boots applicable for the purpose-in a
boot fastening up the front by being laced, and commonly called " a bal" or
Balmoral boot, I take one piece of material and fix it upon a wooden block made to
the shape or form of the frontal bone or bend of the foot and instep and lower part of
the leg It is then pulled and stretched tightly towards the back and lower sides, and
secured by pins, or other suitable means then allowed to dry, and when removed the
front portion is blocked, the edges are then trimmed round, a slit is then cut in the
centre down to the length desired to form the facings and the Eyelets are put in on
either sides, 1 then cut out a narrow piece or gore on each side, and running parallel
with the facings of about the same length, and insert one, or may be several pieces of
Elastic joined together that it stretches straight across the gore and in the direction it
takes from the back to the front at a similar angle as the facings, it is then seamed
up the back and the upper is complete without having seams coming over the joints,
or waist at the sides of the boot-for uppers of boots that are fastened with a button
fly and buttons, the same blocking operation is performed and the pattern of the
button piece is stamped, or cut out in the desired position parallel with the frontal
portion The gores are made and inserted as before described and the back seamed up
and the buttoned boot is completed without seams on the vamp, or up the front of the
leg, or golosh, and having only the seam up the back and the narrow Tab arranged
and attached to come under the button piece, or fly-for a boot having no fastenings
other than the gores, or springs at the sides, the piece of material is blocked as before
described, in the piece, Two gores are then cut out and the gussets or material is
inserted in a Transverse direction in a similar curve to the blocked frontal portion
with the narrowest part coming towards the centre, or instep, and the outer edges to
form the back is shaped and seamed, and the boot is constructed without a seam,
except at the gores, and back, and at the same time causing a great saving in the
cutting out of the material employed as shewn in the accompanying drawings, and to
which I will now refer, that this invention may be well understood of combining the
insertion of Transverse gores, or Gussets, in conjunction with uppers of boots, made
or shaped, with one piece of material. Figure 1. is a view of a flat pattern of a piece

page_text: of material A. to be formed into a Buttoned Boot, the button Tab B. being formed
by cutting out at the line 6, and can be carried down as far as may be desired on the
part to form the front at 62. If it is desirable to cut away the Tab, and attach it by
sewing across at dotted lines C it would be where additional strength is required on
the bottom of the instep or above the Toe joints. Figure 2 is another flat view of a
piece of material A to be formed into a Laced or "Balmoral" Boot, The facings B.
being made by cutting out at the line b¹ and into which are placed the studs, or Eye-
lets, and may be seamed across at C. if desired-Figure 3. is a side view of a Buttoned
Boot shewing how the gores, or Gussets D. are arranged. Figure 4. is another view,
of a "Balmoral " or Laced Boot, constructed in accordance with this Invention.
Figure 5. is another flat view of a piece of material for forming a side spring Boot,
the part to form the front being cut out at line b¹ to b². The same letters of reference
represent like parts in all the figures.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said Invention,
and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I claim is :—
“An improvement in the Manufacture of Boots" by the combination of Transverse
gores, or Gussets in conjunction with uppers made, or shaped out of one piece of
material. Substantially in the manner as hereinbefore described and set forth in the
drawings accompanying this Specification.
WILLIAM BESTWICK MAXFIELD,
Agent for the Applicant.