Improvements relating to Sewing or Stitching and to Machinery therefor.
Year: 1887

page_text: Date of Application, 11th Mar., 1887.
Specification Accepted, 13th Sept., 1887.
[Communicated from abroad by AUGUSTUS CONKLIN SAXTON, of 135 Spring Street,
New York, United States of America.]
Improvements relating to Sewing or Stitching and to Machinery
therefor.
HENRY HARRIS LAKE, of the firm of Haseltine, Lake, and Co. Patent. Agents,
Southampton Buildings, in the County of Middlesex, do hereby declare the nature of
this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement:
This invention relates to over-edge stitching and covers certain new and unique
mechanical devices, whereby this class of stitching may be rapidly performed, and a
firmer and more secure stitch made by the employment of a single thread than has
heretofore been done.
My improvements in sewing machines relate to an improved method of forming
ever-edge stitches by means of a single thread sewing machine having an eye-pointed
reciprocating needle, presser-foot, feeding device and supporting plate whereby the
goods are fed under the needle, and the needle caused to pierce the same near the edge,
in the ordinary manner.
The invention embraces a looper which consists of a spirally formed wire having a
bill shaped point, so actuated and controlled by certain mechanical devices as to be
under the combined actions of three full movements in different directions, viz:—a
rotation on its axis, a longitudinal movement on its axial line, and one of position
rocking to and from the needle: by all of which its bill shaped point is caused to take
the thread from the front side of the needle at the under side of the goods, carry the
loop upwards in a helical direction over the edge of the goods, while the needle is
being withdrawn from the goods and bring the loop under the point of the needle when
it is in its highest position, so that the needle in its descent passes through the loop,
which is then left on the needle by the retrograde movements of the looper viz; its
backward movement of position, its retrograde rotation on its axis, and its downward
longitudinal movement at the completion of which movement the point of the
looper is in its lowest position under the goods, to again take the thread from the
needle.
The action of the looper is such as to twist the loop of thread as it is being carried
around the edge of the goods from the under to the upper side, thereby making the stitch

page_text: and more secure, especially when employed to bind and hold a reed or cord on
the edge of the goods.
A tension guide is provided in the plate of the machine to act on the loop to keep it
taut when it is being carried over the edge of the goods by the looper, which, with the
devices employed to actuate the looper will be now fully described, reference being had
to the accompanying drawings, in which
Figure 1, is a side elevation of a sewing machine embodying my invention.
Figure 2, is a longitudinal section of the same on the line, figure 1.
Figure 3, is an end view.
Figures 4, 5 and 6, are an enlarged side elevation in section, a front elevation partly
in section, and a plan view respectively of the stitch forming mechanism, with the
looper over the goods.
Figures 7, 8, and 9, are similar views, with the looper under the goods.
Figures 10 and 11, are enlarged views illustrating the formation of the stitch.
Figures 12 and 13, represent two pieces of goods sewed together by means of my
improvements.
Figure 14, shows a modification in the mechanism for operating the looper.
Figure 15, is an enlarged elevation of the spiral looper.
The looper and its operating mechanism are shown applied to a single thread, known
as the Wilcox & Gibbs sewing machine, which being so well understood both as regards
its construction and mode of operation, it is unnecessary here to describe; the only
material changes being the substitution of my looper for the old one, and the formation
of the tension guide in the supporting plate. The looper consists of a spiral wire a
having a bill shaped point, with a shoulder a¹, on the under side of it, and a notch a²,
in the upper side for forming the loop in the thread, and an internal shoulder a³, for
ensuring the retention of the thread on the point as it is taken from the needle. It is
secured in the top of the cylindrical plug b, fitted in the tubular holder and is provided
with a small roller which projects from its side and works in the spiral slot e', formed in
the holder c. To impart rotary motion to said looper, the lower part of the plug b, may
be provided with the deep slot 62, into which fits the long flat head d of the shaft d²,
forming a part of or secured to the pinion e. This shaft, has bearings in the
juncture of the two pieces of metal which constitute the rocking block by being
secured together by the screws ff and the tubular holder c is securely clamped
in the upper end of the block concentric with the shaft d'. The block f, is held
between the ears gg, on the base of the machine, and the shaft or pin g¹ passes
through them and the lower end of the block, and constitutes the centre upon which
the block is rocked, as hereinafter described, so as to impart to the looper a, a sidewise
movement of position to properly manipulate the thread. Now it will be observed
that when the pinion e, is rotated in the direction indicated by the arrow in Figure 7,
the flat end d, of the shaft d' causes the plug 4, with the looper a to rotate with it, and
as the roller, is confined in the slot c', of the holder c, the plug and the looper
are at the same time raised and assume the position shown in Figures 4, 5, and 6.
A reverse movement of the pinion e, imparts to them a retrograde rotation and down-
ward movement, and causes them to assume the position shown in Figures 7, 8, and 9.
The upper and lower ends of the spiral slot e, finish in short straight slois so that
the plug, and looper a, have no vertical movement for a short interval, at the limits
of their rotation, that is, when the looper is taking the thread from the needle h, as
shewn at Figures 7, 8 and 9, and when the needle is taking the loop from the looper a
as shown at Figures 4, 5 and 6.
Reciprocal rotary motion may be imparted to the shaft d', and a rocking motion to
the block by means of any suitable mechanism actuated from any suitable moving
part of the machine.
In he drawings such mechanism consists of the segmental
gear i, pivoted on the vertical stud, secured to the base of the machine, and receives
its motion from the cam j, secured to the main shaft 7, by means of the roller,
on the end of the arm 2, projecting from the hub of the segmental gear i.
And the
block is controlled and rocked on its centre g, by means of the cam m, into which
lits the roller m², on the end of the bent link n, the other end of which is pivoted to

page_text: the block The vertical link n', pivoted in an ear in the base of the machine,
supports and guides the roller end of the link n.
Instead of the plug &, being rotated by means of a sliding connection with the
shaft d, to which the pinion e, is secured, as before described, said shaft d', may be
secured to or form a part of the plug b, and the space between the bearings of the
shaft d', in which the pinion e, is located, be made sufficiently great to allow of
the longitudinal movement of the pinion e, with the plug b, as shown at Figure 14, the
pinion e, being then made long so as to remain in mesh with the segmental gear i as
it moves up and down with the plug b.
The plate o has formed in it an opening of sufficiently large for the looper to pass
through, and shaped as clearly shewn in Figures 10 and 11, to connect with the hole
through which the needle passes; the curved rounded edge o², acts as a tension guide
to insure the proper formation of the stitch by the looper a as hereafter described.
The presser foot q, is also cut away to allow for the free action of the looper as
shewn in Figures 4, 5 and 6, and the feed is shaped as shewn at Figure 2, and
actuated in the ordinary manner.
The cams and m are timed and set to work with the other parts of the machine
to cause the looper to co-operate with the needle and feed, as follows. The article to
be sewed is represented as a bat sweat in the drawings, and consists of a strip of
materials in the edge of which it is desired to secure the reed or cord s'; these are
placed in position under the presser foot so that the needle 4, will pierce the strip
near its edge, and, after being properly threaded and the machine operated, descend
through the goods into the vertical groove in the tubular holder e The looper a
is now in its lowest position and is rotated as soon as the needle commences its upward
course, so that its hill shaped point takes the thread from the front of the necille, as
shown at Figures 7, 8 and 9 and carries it in a loop up through the opening o', of the
plate o. During such carrying up of the loop it is in contact with the curved rounded
edge o² which acts as a guide to keep the loop taut, as shewn at Figure 11, until the
looper attains such a position that the loop slips off the rounded end of the edge of,
and around the reed or cord s¹ or the edge of the goods being sewed, and the looper a
eventually arrives at the position shewn in Figures 4, 5, 6 and 10, it having been
moved forward by the rocking of the block so that its point is behind the needle h
and the loop is held open by means of the shoulder a, and the notch a² for the needle
to pass through it, in its next descent. While the looper is completing its movement
as just described, the feed moved the goods forward, acting in conjunction with the
tension guide edge o², to maintain a uniform iension on the loop, as well as to place
the goods in position for the formation of the succeeding stitch.
}
It will be observed that the looper in carrying the loop helically from the under to
the upper side of the goods imparts to the same a twist, as clearly shewn in the
enlarged views. This twisting of the loop adds greatly to the security of the sewing.
Said twist may occur on the extreme edge, as shewn, or in other parts of the stitch,
according to the tension of the thread, and the adjustment of the moving parts of the
machine.
When the needle h, has passed through the loop Figure 10, the retrograde move-
ment of the looper takes place, leaving the loop on the needles the point of the
looper arriving in its lowest position in time to again take the thread from the needle
at the under side of the goods, and from the next stitch as before described.
As well as forming a binding over edge stitch, my improvements are well adapted
to be used to bind or sew two pieces of goods together with their edges abutting.
This is accomplished by placing two pieces of goods t, and t' together, one above the
other, with their edges in line, as shown in the sectional view Figure 13, and sewing
them together in the manner before described, after which they are separated and
spread out with their edges abutting, being so held by the stitches as shown in
Figure 12.
If the finish side of the goods are on the outside when the two pieces are
placed together and sewed, then the form of the stitch exposed will be represented by
the full lines, and if the finish sides are adjacent when sewed, then the dotted lines
will represent the exposed stitching.

page_text: Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed as communicated to me by my
foreign Correspondent I wish it understood that I do not confine myself to the
particular construction of the mechanical devices employed as shown to impart the
proper movements to the looper to cause it to co-operate with the other parts of
the machine, as any devices adapted to this purpose will come within the scope of
my invention; but I claim :-
First. The improved method of forming single thread over edge stitches, which
consists in passing the thread through the goods in the form of a loop, taking this
loop from the under side of the goods, twisting it and passing it around the edge and
over the upper side of the goods, and then passing a second loop of the same thread
through this loop as the thread is passed through the goods in commencing the next
stitch, substantially as set forth.
Second. The combination with an eye pointed needle and its reciprocating
mechanism of a spirally shaped looper carried by a holder in a pivotted frame, and
mechanism substantially as described, whereby the looper is actuated io rotate and
take the thread from the needle at the under side of the goods, twist it and carry it
over the edge of the goods, and move towards the needle and hold the loop of thread
open for the needle to pass through it, as set forth.
Third. The combination with a reciprocating eye pointed needle and a spiral looper
in conjunction with mechanism by which it is rotated moved longitudinally, and moved
to and from the needle, so as to take the loop from the needle at the under side of the
goods, carry it over the edge of the goods and hold it in position for the needle io pass
through it when forming the next stitch of a tension guide consisting of the part of
the edge of the hole in the plate of the machine through which the looper passes
formed so as to catch the loop of thread and keep it taut while it is being carried over
he edge of the goods by the looper, substantially as set forth.
Fourth. In a sewing machine, in combination, a reciprocated eye pointed needle,
a spiral looper and mechanism for rotating it, moving it longitudinally and moving it
to and from the needle, and by which it is operated to take the thread from the needle,
twist it, and carry it over the edge of the goods, a tension guide formed by a part of
the edge of the hole in the plate of the machine through which the looper passes, to
keep the loop of thread taut during its passage over the edge of the goods, and a
feeding device for moving the goods forward and keeping the loop taut in the
looper when the loop slips over the edge of the tension guide, substantially as and for
the purpose set forth.
Fifth. In a sewing machine, a spirally formed looper, in combination with mechanical
means constructed and operated substantially as described, whereby it receives three
full movements in different directions viza reciprocating rotating device by which
it is rotated on its axis, a helical slot in its holding bearing which imparts to it a
longitudinal movement on its axial line, and a lateral bearing on its holding frame
and reciprocating mechanism connected thereto which imparts to it an oscillating or
rocking movement, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
Sixth. The combination with the reciprocating eye pointed needle h, of the spiral
looper a, having a shoulder a¹ on its under side near the point, the notch a², on its
upper side, and the internal shoulder a³, and mechanism for rotating the looper on its
axis, moving it longitudinally, and oscillating it to and from the needle, substantially
as, and for the purpose, set forth.
Seventh. In combination the spiral looper a, the plug b, having a slot 2, and
provided with the roller b', the tubular holder e provided with the spiral groove c', the
shaft d', with the flat head d, and reciprocating rotating mechanism for actuating the
shaft d, substantially as described.
Eighth. In combination, the looper a, plug b, tubular holder e, shaft d', with
pinion e, segmental gear i, and reciprocating holding block, substantially as and for
the purpose set forth.
Ninth. In combination, the cams j, and m, on the main shaft of a sewing machine,
segmental gear, with arm, rocking on a stud from the base of the machine,

page_text: :
pinion e, on shaft d', held in the block the link n, the block, held on the shaft or
pin between the cars . g, the spiral looper a, held in the block and actuated by the
shaft d, and the eye pointed needle h, carried by a reciprocating bar actuated from
the main shaft of the machine, substantially as set forth.
Tenth. In combination, the spiral looper a, mechanism for imparting a rotary
movement, a longitudinal movement, and an oscillating movement to the looper a,
the plate o, with the tension guide, the needle h, mechanism for vertically
reciprocating the needle, and a feeding device r, and its operating mechanism,
substantially as, and for the purpose, sei forth.
Eleventh. In combination, the spiral looper a, mechanism for imparting a rotary
movement, a longitudinal movement and an oscillating movement to the looper, the
plate o, with the tension guide o², the eye pointed needle h, with its reciprocating
mechanism, the feeding device r, with its operating mechanism, and the presser foot,
substantially as, and for the purpose, set forth.
Twelfth. In combination, the spiral looper a, the plug 6 provided with the roller,
to which plug the looper a, is attached, the tubular holder c, with the spiral groove c
having straight parts at its ends, and the longitudinal slot c², and the needle h, vertically
reciprocated so as to enter the slot c², substantially as, and for the purpose, set forth.
Dated this 11th day of March 1887.
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
45, Southampton Buildings, London, W.C.,
Agents for the Applicant.