IMPROVEMENTS IN MECHANISM FOR PARING THE " " CURLS OF HAT BRIMS
Year: 1884

page_text: I SAMUEL WILDE of 307 Stockport Road, Denton, in the County of Lancaster,
Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of said invention for IMPROVEMENTS IN
MECHANISM FOR PARING THE "
"
CURLS OF HAT BRIMS," to be as follows:-
My invention consists in an improved combination and arrangement of mechanism
for the paring of curls of hat brims,
Secured to a bench, is a base plate in which a stud is fixed upon which the axis
of an arm can rotate and above the boss of this arm there is a table plate mounted
on and secured to the fixed stud, and under the table plate and between it and the
arın, a compound shaper is secured.
This shaper is a stepped block of elliptical or other required form, and each step
of the compound shaper is made to suit the width of the "curl" required to
be cut.
On the upper side of the table plate, blocks are placed to suit different sizes of
hats to be operated upon, and each hat is placed on this block and table plate to
have the curl of the brim cut or pared to the size and shape required.
The said arm on the fixed stud in the base plate extends on each side of the
stud, and at one end carries an anti-friction bowl that comes against the under side
near the margin of the said table plate having the hat upon it-The other end of
the arm is formed with a slot in its length-way for a stand to slide on the arm in
the lengthway of it, and this stand slide has one end of a spring attached to
it the other end of which is connected with the opposite end of the said arm so
that the sliding stand is constantly pulled towards the said compound shaper until
the edge of a pulley free on a vertical stud secured in the slide stand is brought
against one of the steps of the compound shaper.
This pulley is adjustable on the said vertical stud so as to come opposite and
work against any desired step in the compound shaper.
The upper part of the slide stand forms the slide way for a hinge or joint slide
which can be adjusted in the direction of the lengthway of the said arm carrying
the slide stand and this hinge slide can be adjusted and secured to the stand slide
in any required position.

page_text: This hinge slide forms the hinge or fulcrum to which two arms are jointed; one
arm carries a cutter secured in it by a set screw, the other arm carries a hook or
part to go under the curl a little in advance of the knife while the cutter is paring
the curl
There is a handle on the hinge slide for rotating the said arm round its stud,
and this carries the stand slide and connected parts round the hat on the said
table plate.
The arrangement of mechanism described will cut the "curls" of all sizes and
shapes of hat brims of the usual proportions, cut on the flat, and of any other
proportions by making the compound stepped shaper accordingly.
The cutter is adjusted to the size of the hat by moving the hinged slide, which
brings the cutter and connected parts nearer to or from the centre of the hat on
the table plate.
For cutting open "angle" and "roll curls" a shaper is placed upon the margin
of the upper side of the table plate of the form required and this acts upon a 1
pulley carried in a projection from the hinged arms for the knife and hook and
raises and lowers them as the said arm is rotated to suit the shape of the " angle"
curl.
or
"roll"

page_text: I SAMUEL WILDE of 307 Stockport Road Denton, in the County of Lancaster
Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of said invention for IMPROVEMENTS IN
MECHANISM FOR PARING THE CURLS OF HAT BRIMS, and in what manner the same
is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement :-
My invention consists in an improved combination and arrangement of mechanism
for paring the curls of hat brims.
Secured to a bench, is a base plate in which a stud is fixed upon which the axis
of an arm-can rotate, and above the boss of this arm there is a table plate mounted
on and secured to the fixed stud and under the table plate and between it and the
arm, a compound shaper is secured.
This shaper is a stepped, or it may be a bevelled block of elliptical or other
required form, and each step of the compound shaper is made to suit the width of
the "curl" required to be cut.
On the upper side of the table plate, blocks are placed to suit different sizes of
hats to be operated upon, and each hat is placed on this block and table plate to
have the curl of the brim cut or pared to the size and shape required.
The said arm on the fixed stud in the base plate extends on each side of the
stud, and at one end carries or may carry an anti-friction bowl that comes against
the under side near the margin of the said table plate having the hat upon it-The
other end of the arm is formed with a slot in its lengthway for a stand to slide on
the arm in the lengthway of it, and this stand slide has one end of a spring
attached to it, the other end of which is connected with the opposite end of the
said arm, or two springs may be used by preference, so that the sliding stand is
constantly pulled towards the said compound shaper until the edge of two pulleys
free on studs in a plate on a vertical stud secured in the slide stand is brought
against one of the steps of the compound shaper.
The plate carrying these pulleys is adjustable on the said vertical stud so as to
come opposite and work against any desired step in the compound shaper.
The upper part of the slide stand forms the slideway for a hinge or joint slide
which can be adjusted in the direction of the lengthway of the said arm carrying
the slide stand and this hinge slide can be adjusted and secured to the stand slide
in any required position.
The upper part of the slide on the stud or stand swivels upon it and is made to
swivel with the plate carrying the two bowls.
This hinge slide forms the hinge or fulcrum to which two arms are jointed or
attached one arm carries a cutter secured in it by a set screw, the other arm carries
a hook or part to go under the curl a little in advance of the knife while the cutter
is paring the curl.
There is a handle in the said arm for rotating it round its stud and this carries ¨
the stand slide and connected parts round the hat on the said table plate,

page_text: ff
The arrangement of mechanism described will cut the "curls" of all sizes and
shapes of hat brims of the usual proportions, cut on the flat or
open angles" and
of any other proportions by making the compound stopped shaper accordingly.
The cutter is adjusted to the size of the hat by moving the hinged slide which
brings the cutter and connected parts nearer to or from the centre of the hat on
the table plate.
For cutting "roll curls" a shaper is placed upon the margin of the upper side of
the table plato of the form required and this acts upon a pulley carried in a
projection from the hinged arm for the knife and hook and raises and lowers
them as the said arm is rotated to suit the shape of the "angle" or "roll" curl.
Fig. 1 is a sectional elevation in the longest way of the shaper and showing
a longitudinal side elevation of the mechanism for carrying the cutter and guides.
Fig. 2 is a plan section taken below the plate carrying the hat block.
Fig. 3 is a side elevation at a right angle to fig. 1 and showing an elevation of
part of the slides for carrying the cutter and guide mechanism.
Fig. 4 is a plan view showing the plate carrying the hat block and the plan of
the cutter and guide mechanism.
=
Fig. 5 is a partial side elevation showing two modifications, on the right (of the
person facing the figure) is shown a modification of the part which carries the
cutting. mechanism which is shown in plan by fig. 6, and on the left of fig. 5 is
shown a modification of the shaper:
:
a is a base plate secured by screws in any convenient manner to a bench, b is a
stud secured in the base plate a upon which stud a boss is fitted which forms part
of an arm c which has a handle b¹ fixed in it, at one end by which it can be rotated
round the stud b-above the boss in the arm c and secured to the stud b so as
not to rotate thereon is a stepped or compound shaper d, each step corresponds to
one of the various sizes and shapes to be given to the curls of hat brims.
The stepped or compound shaper d is or may be formed in one piece or it is or
may be formed of a series of separate thin plates formed to the required shape and
all secured together, as if in one piece, and instead. of being stepped it may be
bevelled off as shown by dx in fig. 5.
Above the compound shaper da plate e is secured on the stud b and on this plate,
the block in two halves is secured by screws f¹. There is a wedge f' in the
centre which can be adjusted up and down by a screw f³ to separate the two
halves of each block to adjust them to the size of the hat, and when so adjusted
they are secured by the said screws (f¹). These blocks fare changed to suit the
size of the hats the brims of which are to be cut:
The hat (either folt silk or other material) is placed on the block of as shown in
fig. 1.
On the arm c there is a slide g which can move in a slot in the lengthway of
the arm c, this slide g being held to the arm by screws g' passing through it and
the slot in the arm c and through cross pieces g³ under the arm c, but so as to slide
freely thereon.
The slide g has two pins or side projections 9s which correspond with pins or
side projections c¹ on the end of the arm c and on each side between these
projections g³ and c' an elastic india rubber band h is extended as shown, the
action of which is to draw the slide g inwards and keep the pulleys hereinafter
referred to against the shaper d.
"
There is a vertical stud secured in the slide g upon the upper end of which
slide-way i is mounted so as to be able to swivel thereon.
1,
The slideways i is secured on the upper end of the stud g' by a screw passing
through the boss i* on the slideway, the point of which screw enters a groove
(shown in dotted lines) round the stud but so as not to prevent it from
swivelling.
There is a plate having a boss to fit the stud g' and swivel freely thereon, and
this plate has two studs carrying each a bowl j' free to rotate.

page_text: These bowls are about the width of a step in the compound shaper d and are
both kept against the shaper, as before explained by the pressure of the springs h.:
The plate ; can be moved up and down the stud g' so that the pulleys j¹ can be
brought opposite any required step or part of the shaper & and are held in that
position by a collar below the plate which is secured on the stud g' by a set
screw and a pin passing through one of the holes in the stud g' or by a collar above
the plate secured to the stud by a set screw.
:
..As the arm c is rotated round the hat the pulleys or bowls will both be kept
against the shaper d and will thus swivel the plate j and this swivelling movement
is conveyed to the slideway i carrying the cutting and guiding apparatus, by a
boss in the plate ; having a hole fitting a stud descending from and secured to
the slideway i.
.
The centre line of the lengthway of the slideway i will by this arrangement bo
kept in a line with a centre line of the plate j which comes midway between. the
two bowls j and thus the lengthway of the cutting edge of the cutter will be kept
approximately at a tangent to that are of the shaper & extending between the two
bowls on the plato j.
In figs. 5 and 6 the boss i* of the slideway i is extended to the bottom of the
stud upon which it can swivel, and the plate j is secured to the boss i* by a set
screw at any required height to be opposite the required step or part of the
shaper d.
When a bevelled shaper d* is used as shown on the left of fig. 5 the bowls ¹
are or may be shaped as shown.
One end of an arm k is jointed to a slide which can be adjusted to and fro in
a slot on the slideway of i and then secured by a screw k³-The joint of the arm k
is shown above the slideway i but if desired can be arranged below it.
To the end of the arm ka part is secured by a screw passing through a slot
so as to be adjusted up and down, the lower end of this part is bont and comes
above the curl while being cut and keeps it down against a part m having a bent
end coming under the curl, being cut to hold it up.
This part m is adjustable up and down and is secured by a set screw m¹ in a
small arm m³ jointed to the arm k centered on a screw m³, this arm being kept in
position by one end of a flat spring m* secured by a screw m³ to the arm m², the
free end of the spring coming under a pin me near the end of the small arm m².
There is a lever n jointed on a screw n³ to the slideway i on one side, which
when turned to the position shown in fig. 4 holds down the jointed arm k by
catching under the projection from the slideway on the other side.
The cutting knife is held in a slot in the end of the arm k in which it is
secured when adjusted by a set scrow p¹.
One end of a flat spring is secured to the top slide of the slide-way i so that its
free end comes under the jointed arm k and tends to lift it.
The jointed arm k is turned into the position shown in dotted line in fig. 1 when
removing one hat and replacing it by another.
For cutting "roll" curls on hat brims a shaper of the required form is secured
on the margin or edge of the table plate e and the shaping or cam edge is arranged
to act vertically upon the edge of a bowl carried on the free end of the jointed
arm k so that the weight of the arm and connected parts (assisted by a spring
when required) will cause the bowl carried by it to rest upon such shaper on the
table plate e and raise and lower the end of the jointed arm k and thus the cutter
and connected guide parts as the arm c is passed round the hat and so cut the
"roll" curl of the hat as required.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is
1. The combination of the arm c, slide 9 and springs h substantially as herein-
A

page_text: 2. The compound shaper d or d* made in one piece or in a series secured
together, and formed either in steps or bevelled, substantially as herein before
described and illustrated by the drawings.
3. The combination of stand a, arm o compound shaper d or d* and table plate e
for the hat blocks substantially as herein before described and illustrated by the
drawings.
4. The combination of the slide 9 and its stud (9) with the mechanism for
carrying the cutters and guides, so as to swivel on the stud g' substantially as
herein before described and illustrated by the drawings.
5. The combination of two bowls (¹) with the shaper (d or d*) and cutter and 1
guide carrying mechanism so as to oscillate the latter as the arm c is rotated
round the hat block, substantially as herein before described and illustrated by the
drawings.
6. The combination and arrangement of mechanism for cutting the curls of
hat brims, substantially as herein before described and illustrated by figs. 1, 2, 3 1
and 4, or when modified as illustrated by figs. 5 and 6 of the drawings.