Year: 1887

page_text: I, GEORGE VALIANT residing at Toronto in the County of York, Province of
Ontario, Canada, Gentleman, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in
what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement :-
Fig. 1, shows a front perspective view of a portion of a shoe showing my button-
hole strip or fly as attached to the quarter.
Fig. 2, a rear view of the same part of the shoe showing my welt-strip seam for
the quarter edge at the back of the shoe.
Fig. 3, a detail perspective view of the button-hole strip or fly detached.
Figure, 4, a transverse sectional view of the button hole or strip as attached to the
quarter.
Fig. 5, a detail transverse section of my welt strip for the back seam of the boot
or shoe.
Fig. 6, a transverse sectional view of the welt strip, as applied to make the seam
between the quarter edges at the rear.
Fig. 7, a perspective view showing a modification of my invention.
Fig. 8, a similar view showing my invention, as applied to button-flies for mens
boots and shoes.
Figure, 9, an enlarged view of a section on line, x-x, of figure, 8.
Fig. 10, a perspective view showing my invention as applied to lace hole strips.
Fig. 11, an enlarged view of a section on line, y-y, of fig. 10.
Fig. 12, a perspective view showing a modified form of my button hole fly or strip,
such view being taken from the inside of the shoe, and,
Fig. 13, a view of a section on line, z-z, of fig. 7.
The object of my invention is to provide certain improvements in boots and shoes,
and in the means and method of attaching together their several parts, and with these
ends in view my invention consists in the button hole or lace hole fly or strip and the
means and method of attaching the same to the quarter, and in the means and
method of forming the back seam between the quarter or vamp edges as hereinafter
specified.
In the drawings: A designates the quarter or vamp of a boot or shoe and, B, 'the
button hole fly or slip consisting of the strong piece of leather cut to the proper
curve with the button holes, b, b, stamped or cut in it, and having its inner edge split
longitudinally so as to form the two flaps, B¹, and B', as shown best in figure, 3.

page_text: The strip when used for womens shoes is preferably scolloped as shown and has
imitation stitching stamped or embossed around the button holes and scollops.
Button hole strips have heretofore been made of single pieces of leather with the
button holes cut or stamped in them and such strips have been attached to the fly or
flap of a boot or shoe, such a button hole strip made of one piece of leather has been
sewed to the flap or fly of a shoe which overlaps it. The lining is then secured by
stitching it to the edge of the fly. It has also been the custom to make the
button holes in the fly or flap and reinforce them in various ways. Where a lining
is used with this form it is cut to fit around the button holes and is stitched to
the fly.
:
In the case of the button hole strip above referred to the strip has been fastened to
the quarter only by means of a flap or portion overlapping the button hole strip to
which flap the upper is stitched.
In my present invention I improve on this construction by making the fly and
strip in one piece adapted to. be attached to the quarter so as to make a neat flat
seam or junction and enable the edges of the upper and lining to be secured without
extra stitching.
To accomplish this I provide the edge of the button hole containing strip with two
flaps, B, and, B². Such flaps I prefer to form by splitting the inner edge of the strip
as indicated in fig. 3, but I contemplate other means and another method of providing
the strip edge with the necessary flaps as will be set forth hereinafter.
Of the two flaps along the strip edge the front or upper one, B', is narrower than
the lower or inner flap B. The narrow front flap, B1, is attached to the edge of the
upper and lining of the quarter, A, by an ordinary seam, C, the adjoining edges of
the flap and quarter being folded inward and attached together by seam stitching, C¹
The rear or inner flap, B2, then extending beyond this seam overlaps it and forms a
substitute for the stay or lining usually employed to strengthen this seam.
stitching, E, through the quarter, the lining and the flap, B2, is then run parallel to
the seam, C. This obviously not only fastens the flap to the quarter but secures the
lining edge at the same time.
.
A line of
Another line of stitching, F, through the two flaps, B¹, and B2, is preferably run
also parallel to the seam but on the opposite side thereof from the stitching, E.
The strip containing the button holes is thus firmly secured to the quarter without
the intervention of the usual connecting fly or flap heretofore used and the junction
between the strip and the quarter is both strong and neat and being flat and flexible
is perfectly comfortable to the wearer of the shoe. In figure, 7, I show a modified
form of my invention. In this form when it is not desired to make the button fly in
one piece but to use a connecting strip, A', of other material, as may sometimes be
required particularly in the case of shoes with cloth or felt uppers, the edge of the
connecting strip, A', of cloth or other material is inserted between the two flaps, B¹;
and, B, of the button hole strip and fastened there by stitching, 61, which passes
through the edge of the connecting strip and, the two flaps of the button hole strip..
In said figure I have shown two lines of such stitching extending in scollop lines,
but do not limit myself to one or more lines of stitching or to the curvature or
direction of such line or lines. As in the case of the button hole strip described
hereinbefore, and shown in figures, -2, and, 3, the front or upper flap, B; is preferably
made narrower than the other. The edge of the lining, D, projects in over the top
or inner side of the rear or under flap, B, and is fastened thereto by stitching as
shown In figures, 8, and; 9, my invention is shown as applied to button flies or
strips for mens boots and shoes..
7
The button hole containing strip, B, is here shown as attached to a connecting strip
or piece, A', in precisely the same manner as in fig. 7, and as just described above:
In figs. 10; and, 11, my invention is shown as applied to a-lace hole strip such strip
being constructed and attached to the connecting strip; A', just as are the button
hole containing strips-shown in figs. 7, 8, and, 9. Instead of joining the attaching
flaps along the edge of the button hole or lace hole strip by splitting the strip edge as

page_text: described herein before, I contemplate, also as desired, providing the strip or fly
with attaching flaps in a different way as indicated in figs. 12 and, 13, which show
clearly the modification of my invention.
In making the button hole strip or fly piece shown in these figures I take a strip
of leather, B, of the desired strength and toughness which has been cut of the proper
shape and in which the button holes and the scollops where such are desired have
been cut and embossed. With the strong tough strip that I prefer to use the button
holes and scollops can be simply cut in the leather without any working over or
stitching and the usual stitching can be represented or imitated by embossing. Such
embossing is of course not necessary but gives an ornamental appearance to the button
hole fly or strip.
;
Where the strip is to be used for mens shoes or boots instead of being scolloped
its outer edge is simply beaded the beading being done by embossing without any
stitching.
Instead of splitting the inner or attaching edge of the strip as described herein-
before to make the laps thereon I bevel or skive it down on the inner or flesh side
as shown best in figure, 13, the skiving or bevelling being so done as to leave only
a thin edge along the strip while leaving the outer or grain side of the leather
intact.
With the extreme edge of the strip thus made then it can be turned under or
folded on itself as is necessary to make a good seam without making such'seam
heavy and bungling.
This turning under or folding of the edge is desirable and necessary in order to
enable the strip to be attached to the vamp or quarter edge as shown in the drawings
with a neat seam in which the thin extreme edge of the leather is concealed and
protected. As the skiving of the strip edge makes such edge so thin as to materially
lessen its strength I fasten a strip, B3, of strong tough material to the under or inner
side of the strip or fly, B, by means of the stitching, F. To make such stitching
ornamental in appearance on the outer side of the fly or strip, B; I prefer to scollop
the edge of the reinforcing strip, B³, as shown in fig. 12; so that the line of stitching, F,
in following the scolloped edge will form a scolloped line whose curved portions come
opposite the button holes, b, b, in the button hole strip.
The reinforcing strip, B³, projects beyond the inner edge of the button hole or fly
strip, B, so as to cover the seam made along the inner thin edge of said strip and
form a lining for such edge.
In using my button hole strip or fly with its reinforcing and lining strip, B³, the
inner skived edge of the button hole strip proper, B, is turned or folded under as
shown in the drawings and such folded edge is fastened by stitches, C, C, to the edges
of the shoe vamp or quarter, A. The edge of the reinforcing strip, B³, projecting as
it does beyond the seam covering strip, B, with the vamp is then attached to the vamp
or quarter by the line of stitching, E.
Where there is a lining, A', to the vamp or quarter as shown in figure, 13, its edge
is caused to project with the edge of the vamp over the edge of the strip, B³, so that
the stitching, E, passes through the strip, the lining and the vamp and serves to fasten
all together at the same time. The edge of the lining is then held between the vamp
edge and the edge of strip, B3, and is covered and protected by said strip. A line of
stitching, F, is also used parallel to the seam connecting the vamp and the folded
edge of the strip, B, and on the opposite side thereof from the stitching, E. Said
stitching, F1, passes through the strip, B³, and the skived edge of strip, B, and fastens
the strips together in addition to the stitching, F, already described.
The reinforcing strip, B³, is preferably as shown skived or inade thinner from the
edge which projects beyond the edge of the strip, B, to the edge which is stitched to
such latter strip by stitching, F. Its thickest portion then comes below the thinnest
portion of the strip, B, and the stitching, F', fastens the two strips together at a point
between their thickest and thinnest portions.
strip made as described and shown, the outer
button holes, consists of a single thickness of
With iny completed button hole fly or
portion of the strip in which are cut the
strong, tough leather while the inner or

page_text: attaching edge consists of two layers or attaching flaps of material of which the inner
or under flap forms a lining for the outer one precisely as does the inner or under
flap in the button hole strip or fly piece with the split edge herein before described
and shown. For ordinary purposes I find that it is sufficient for properly covering
the seam by which the outer flap is attached to the quarter or vamp edge that the
inner or under flap should project beyond the outer one about a quarter of an inch.
For joining the edges of the vamp or quarter at the back of my improved boot or
shoe, I have invented a new and improved seam which I call my welt strip seam.
Such seam will be described and shown in this application as designed particularly
for use in the manufacture of boots and shoes and especially for the heel or back seam
to attach together the rear edges of the vamp or quarter sides.
My seam and its construction is shown in figures, 5, and, 6, of the drawings. In
these figures; A, A, designate the two pieces of material whose edges are to be
connected together. In the present case they can be considered as portions of a boot
or shoe vamp or quarter and, A', A', will then designate the lining of the shoe. For
connecting the edges of pieces A, A, together I employ the strip, G, preferably of
leather, which I term a welt strip. Such strip which is usually about three eighths of
an inch in width I split along both edges so as to have a solid portion between the
inner edges of the splits about one eighth of an inch wide.
This splitting forms two flaps along each edge of the strip. Of these flaps the two
upper or outer ones, H, H, I make narrower than the under ones, H¹, H¹, for a
purpose to be described. As in using my seam for boots and shoes the edges of the
lining can be connected together and fastened in place at the same time with the edges
of the vamp or quarter sides and by the same welt strip; 1 have shown portions of
the shoe lining at, A, A', in place on the inner or under sides of the vamp
pieces, A, A. The edges of such pieces, A, A, I attach to the edges of the narrow
outer flaps, H, H, by stitching, I, I.
The under or inner flaps, H', H', of the welt piece extend under and cover the
inturned edges of the vamp or quarter sides and the flaps, H, H. The outer edges of
the flaps, H, H', beyond the edges of the vamp or quarter and beyond the seams
attaching such edges to flaps, H, H, are secured to the vamp or quarter by means of
the lines of stitching. I', 1', one for each flap.
When the lining, A', is in place as shown these lines of stitching pass through its
edges and secure them firmly between said flaps, H³, H', and the vamp or quarter.
By means of the welt strip formed and connected with the vamp or quarter edges
as described, I provide a strong and flat seam such as is especially desirable for the
heel or back seam of boots and shoes. As indicated hereinbefore however I do not
intend to limit myself to the welt strip, used in connection with the edges of the
quarter or vamp of a boot or shoe as such strip can be used in making a seam for
attaching the edges of any two pieces of material in a boot or shoe where a strong
and flat seam is desirable."
My improved shoe made as described hereinbefore with the improved button hole
or lace hole strip or fly piece and the improved back seam can be easily and cheaply
made, is ornamental, while strong and durable and is comfortable to the wearer.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. A button hole strip or lace hole strip provided with button-holes or lace. holes,
and having its inner edge split to form attaching flaps, substantially as and for the
purpose specified.
2. A button hole strip or lace hole strip having attaching flaps along its inner
edge, one of which is wider than the other, substantially as and for the purpose
shown.
3. A button hole or lace hole piece or strip having its inner edge split to form flaps, the
inner or rear one of which is wider than the other, substantially as and for the purpose
set forth.

page_text: 4. In combination with the piece containing the button holes or lace holes provided
along its inner edge with attaching flaps, the shoe quarter and suitable stitching securing
the flaps to the quarter, substantially as and for the purpose described.
. In combination with a button hole or lace hole strip provided with two flaps along
its inner edge, the quarter of a boot or shoe having its edge connected by stitching
with the front flap, and a line of stitching fastening the rear flap to the quarter on the
inner side thereof, substantially as and for the purpose specified.
6. In combination with a button hole or lace hole strip provided with two flaps along
its inner edge, the front one being narrower than the other, the quarter of a boot or
shoe having its edge connected by a seam with the front flap and a line of stitching
connecting the rear or inner flap to the quarter on the inner side thereof, substantially
as and for the purpose shown.
7. In combination with the quarter of a boot or shoe the combined fly and button-
hole or lace hole strip having the narrow front flap and the wider rear flap along its
inner edge, stitching joining the front flap to the edge of the quarter, stitching passing
through the quarter and the flap projecting under the same, and stitching passing
through the two flaps, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
8. In combination with the quarter of a boot or shoe a button hole or lace hole strip
having attaching flaps along its inner edge, stitching fastening the front flap to the
quarter edge, and stitching fastening the rear flap to the quarter lining, substantially as
and for the purpose described.
9. In combination with the quarter of a boot or shoe, a lining, and a button hole
or lace hole strip split so as to have front and rear, or inner flaps along its edge,
stitching fastening the strip to the quarter edge, and stitching fastening the lining to the
rear or inner flap of the strip between such flaps and the quarter edge, substantially as
and for the purpose specified.
10. In a boot or shoe, a button hole or lace hole strip having attaching flaps along
its inner edge, stitching fastening the quarter edge between these flaps, and stitching
fastening the rear flap to the lining edge substantially as and for the purpose shown
and described.
11. A button hole fly in one piece having its inner edge or margin split or divided
longitudinally forming two flaps in combination with a quarter, or quarter and lining
of a shoe the front or outer flap on the finished side being united to the quarter or
quarter and lining by a line of stitching forming a seam which is afterwards turned in
such a manner as to be covered by the rear or inner flap which forms a strengthening
stay and makes a smooth finish on the under side of said seam, substantially as and for
the purpose shown and described.
12. The method of attaching a button hole or lace hole strip to the quarter of a
boot or shoe which consists in providing the strip along its inner edge with two flaps
and sewing or attaching both flaps to the quarter, substantially as and for the purpose
specified.
13. The method of attaching a button hole or lace hole strip to a boot or shoe
quarter, which consists in providing the strip with two flaps along its inner edge with
the inner or under flap wider than the other, fastening the narrow front flap to the
quarter edge, and fastening the wider flap to the under or inner side of the quarter,
substantially as and for the purpose shown.
14. A back seam for boots and shoes consisting of the welt strip having along each
of its opposite edges the two flaps and suitable stitching connecting the edges of the
quarter with such flaps, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
1005
W. P. THOMPSON & BOULT,
Agents.