Improvements in Looms for Weaving.
Year: 1895

page_text: Date of Application, 26th Mar., 1895
Complete Specification Left, 1st June, 1895--Accepted, 6th July, 1895
Improvements in Looms for Weaving.
1, WILLIAM JOHN RILEY, of Holker Street Mill, Colne, Lancashire, Manu-
facturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
The improvements relate to looms for weaving and have for object to imitate
what is known as lappet weaving, by simple means.
To accomplish this, and to effect my improvements I cause the special warp
threads for producing the lappet effect to pass between the teeth of what may be
called a sliding comb or combs.
These sliding combs, which are placed in a convenient position between the healds
and the reed, consist of bars, mounted to slide to and fro in suitable supports, and
provided with a number of wires or teeth, after the manner of a comb, such wires
or teeth corresponding to the special or "lappet" warp threads in number and
position, and projecting downwards or upwards according as the "lappet" threads
are arranged to be woven on the upper or the under side of the fabric.
Each comb-bar has transverse motion given to it at desirable intervals, by the
dobby or jacquard, and is held to one side by means of a catch and pawl, which, on
being released, allows the comb-bar to return to its original position through the
action of a spring or springs and such comb bars may act in the same or opposite
directions.
:
The lappet warps are operated by doup healds, and the doups of one heald are
arranged to pull down the "lappet" warps for weaving in with the weft when their
comb-bar holds them at one extremity of the lateral motion, while the standard or
other heald operates the same warps when such comb-bar is at the opposite extremity
of the motion.
The ordinary warps for producing the ground of the fabric are operated by
the ordinary healds, in manner as will be well understood.
Each comb-bar is moved, by preference, half a pick before the doup or other
heald comes into action to operate the "lappet" threads for weaving in, and the
traverse of the "lappet" threads is accomplished either at each pick, or after any
desired interval of plain weaving, in which latter case, the doup healds do not
operate during such interval, and the "lappet" threads on their next traverse
and weaving in, are consequently caused to float or lie on the surface of the
cloth in a diagonal direction, for a distance which varies according to the number
of picks of plain fabric which have intervened.
By this means, through the action of the jacquard or dobby, a varied zig-zag
pattern may be produced by each "lappet" thread down the length of the fabric,
in imitation of ordinary lappet weaving.
To retain each comb-bar described in its extreme position contrary to the action
of the spring, sufficiently long to enable the warps to be fully operated, I provide
a latch or pawl which engages with a projection or catch upon the bar, and is
raised at the proper time, to release the bar, by means of a connection with the
dobby or jacquard; but other means for accomplishing this object may be
adopted.
On the release of the bar, the spring or equivalent comes into operation, and the
warp threads are carried or allowed to pass back to their opposite extremity of
Latonal motion

page_text: ""
To permit of this traverse of the lappet warp threads, I further provide a
special reed, in lieu of the one ordinarily employed, formed, by preference, partly
of ordinary dents, and partly of specially short dents, which latter are placed in
groups of such distance apart and extent as to correspond with the "lappet '
warps and their traverse. Each group or series of short dents is enclosed by a
special dent of extra length, which bends or bridges over such group; but such
bridge may be constructed by other detail means.
The ordinary warp threads are passed through the dents in the usual manner,
and each of the "lappet" warps through the reed on the outside of the bridge or
bridging dent.
As a modification, a reed may be employed having short dents throughout, the
bridging over at intervals being accomplished in similar manner; in which case I
prefer to employ a movable or sliding bar, actuated by trip-lever, cam, or other similar
means, to back up the reed for support during the beat up.
Many variations in detail may be made, such as in the method of actuating the
comb-bars, the number of short reed dents in each series, the method of bridging
over the dents, and in the number of groups in each reed, without departing from
the peculiar character of the invention.
Dated this 25th day of March 1895.
WILLIAM GADD, C.E.,
64 Barton Arcade, Manchester, Agent.
1. 'WILLIAM JOHN RILEY, of Holker Street Mill, Colne, Lancashire, Manu-
facturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement:-
The improvements relate to looms for weaving, and have for object to imitate
what is known as lappet weaving, by simple means.
To accomplish this, and to effect my improvements, I cause the special warp
threads for producing the lappet effect to pass between the teeth of what may be
called a sliding comb or combs.
These sliding combs, which are placed in a convenient position between the
healds and the reed, consist of bars, mounted to slide to and fro in suitable
supports, and provided with a number of wires or teeth, after the manner of a comb,
such wires or teeth corresponding to the special or lappet warp threads in
number and position, and projecting downwards or upwards according as the
"lappet" threads are arranged to be woven on the upper or the under side of the
fabric.
"
Each comb-bar has transverse motion given to it at desirable intervals, by the
'dobby or jacquard, and is held to one side by means of a catch and pawl, which,
on being released, allows the comb-bar to return to its original position through the
action of a spring or springs; and such comb-bars may act in the same or opposite
directions.
The lappet warps are operated by doup healds; and the doups of one heald are
arranged to pull down the "lappet" warps for weaving in with the weft when their
comb-bar holds them at one extremity of the lateral motion, while the standard or
other heald operates the same warps when such comb-bar is at the opposite
extremity of the motion.
The ordinary warps for producing the ground of the fabric are operated by the
ordinary healds, in manner as will be well understood.

page_text: Each comb-bar is moved, by preference, half a pick before the doup or other
heald comes into action to operate the "lappet" threads for weaving in, and the
traverse of the "lappet" threads is accomplished either at each pick, or after any
desired interval of plain weaving, in which latter case, the doup healds do not
operate during such interval, and the "lappet" threads on their next traverse and
weaving in are consequently caused to float or lie on the surface of the cloth in a
diagonal direction, for a distance which varies according to the number of picks of
plain fabric which have intervened.
By this means, through the action of the jacquard or dobby, a varied zig-zag
pattern may be produced by each "lappet" thread down the length of the fabric,
in imitation of ordinary lappet weaving.
To retain each comb-bar described in its extreme position contrary to the action
of the spring, sufficiently long to enable the warps to be fully operated, I provide a
latch or pawl which engages with a projection or catch upon the bar; and is raised
at the proper time to release the bar by means of a connection with the dobby or
jacquard, but other means for accomplishing this object may be adopted.
On the release of the bar, the spring or equivalent comes into operation, and the
warp threads are carried or allowed to pass back to their opposite extremity of
lateral motion.
To permit of this traverse of the lappet warp threads I further provide a special
reed, in lieu of the one ordinarily employed, formed, by preference, partly of
ordinary dents, and partly of specially short dents, which latter are placed in
groups of such distance apart and extent as to correspond with the "lappet" warps
and their traverse. Each group or series of short dents is enclosed by a special
dent of extra length, which bends or bridges over such group; but such bridge
may be constructed by other detail means.
The ordinary warp threads are passed through the dents in the usual manner, and
each of the "lappet" warps through the reed on the outside of the bridge or
bridging dent.
As a modification, a reed may be employed having short dents throughout, the
bridging over at intervals being accomplished in similar manner; in which case I
prefer to employ a movable or sliding bar, actuated by trip lever, cam or other
similar means, to back up the reed for support during the beat up.
But that the improvements may be better understood, I will, with the aid of the
accompanying drawings, proceed more fully to describe neaus employed by me.
Figs. 1 and 2 shew an elevation and cross section respectively of apparatus for
traversing the " lappet warps according to my improvements;
"
Fig. 3 shews a view of the special reed, and Fig. 4 a modification thereof;
while
Fig. 5 shews one form of apparatus for backing up the modified reed, and
Figs. 6 and 7 shew general views of the warps, healds, reed and traverse
mechanism at the open and closed positions of the shed respectively.
The same letters indicate corresponding parts wherever they occur.
a, is the traversing comb-bar, supported by fixed brackets b, and provided with
teeth or wires a', which bear upon the lappet warps c, and cause the same to move
transversely. The bar a is controlled by a spring d, or equivalent, attached to any
suitable fixed resistance d', and motion is given to such bar through a connection e,
passing from the dobby or jacquard round a pulley e¹.
is the latch, fulcrumed at f¹, and communicating by a connection g, with the
dobby or jacquard, while a², is a pin, catch, or other projection, which, when the bar
has been moved a sufficient distance, engages with the latch, and so locks the bar in
position against the strain of the spring d, until the connection g, lifts the latch and
effects the release. A stop a³, limits the motion of the comb-bar in the direction.
of the spring.

page_text: In Fig. 3, h, are the ordinary or full dents, and k the short dents, enclosed by the
bridging dent 1, while in Fig. 4, all the dents are short, and m is the backing bar to
support the reed, as described.
In Fig. 5, a trip lever arrangement is shewn for actuating the backing bar m.
To this bar, at each end of the reed, is attached a vertical connection m', by means
of which such bar is connected to the lever s, fulcrumed at t. One end of this
lever is brought in contact, during the beat up, with a projection u, attached to
the breast beam of the loom, or other convenient support, such projection forcing
up one end of the lever, and thereby depressing the other, thus lowering the bar m,
to back up the reed, as the beat up takes place.
A spring w, or other convenient means, may be employed for automatically
bringing the lever s back to its original position on the withdrawal of the reed after
the beat up.
In Figs. 6 and 7, n are the ordinary healds, and othe doup healds, while
pare the ordinary warps and r is the reed.
In Fig. 6, one of the doup slips is shewn pulling down the lappet warp c, while
in Fig. 7, such warp c is shewn in position for being traversed by the comb-
tooth a¹.
Many variations in detail may be made, such as in the method of actuating the
comb-bars, the number of short reed dents in each series, the method of bridging
over the dents, and in the number of groups in each reed, as well as in the particular
method of actuating the backing bar m, of the short dent reed, without departing
from the peculiar character of the invention.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is
1. In looms for weaving, a traversing comb-bar, actuated by the dobby or
jacquard, and capable of moving certain warp threads transversely, to be drawn
down by doups, and woven in by the weft at the extremes of their motion, for the
purpose and in manner substantially as herein shewn and described.
2. In looms for weaving, a reed formed at intervals with groups of special short
dents, each group being enclosed and bridged over; and combined with traversing
mechanism, for the purpose and in manner substantially as herein shewn and
described.
3. In looms for weaving a reed formed throughout with short dents-groups
thereof being enclosed at intervals-combined with a movable bar to back up such
short dents, and also combined with traversing mechanis in, for the purpose and in
manner substantially as herein shewn and described.
Dated this 31st day of May 1895
WILLIAM GADD, C.E.,
64 Barton Arcade, Manchester, Agent.