Improvements in Garment Fitting Patterns.
Year: 1893

page_text: Date of Application, 27th Dec., 1893-Accepted, 3rd Feb., 1894
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Garment Fitting Patterns.
I, SIMON CHRISTIANSEN of No. 366, Sixth Avenue, New York City, United
States of America, Furrier, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in
what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascer-
tained in and by the following statement:-
The object of the present invention is to provide a new and improved garment
fitting pattern, arranged for conveniently and quickly taking the desired measure of
the human body and to enable the operator to at once cut the material from the
pattern obtained.
The invention consists of a series of plates, each provided with one or more
strips and articulated connections between a strip and a corresponding plate
to permit of moving any part of the strip inward or outward to properly fit the strip
with its outer edge on the adjacent edge of the next following plate.
The invention further consists of adjustable sections for obtaining the outline
for the upper sleeve and rods or their equivalent, automatically controlled by said
sections for obtaining the outline for the under sleeve.
The invention also consists of certain parts and details and combinations of the
same as will be hereinafter described and then pointed out in the claims.
Reference is to be had to the accompanying drawings, forming a part of this
Specification, in which similar letters of reference indicate corresponding parts in
all the figures.
Figure 1 is a perspective view of the improvement as applied. Figure 2 is an
enlarged rear view of the improvement as applied.
Figure 3 is a plan view of the improvement detached from the body and shewing
the edges for marking or cutting the material.
Figure 4 is a sectional side elevation of the sliding button for the waist band.
Figure 5 is a plan view of a strip made in sections.
Figure 6 is a plau view of a modified form of the articulated connection between
a strip and plate.
Figure 7 is a plan view of the sleeve pattern.
Figures 8, 9, 10, and 11, are enlarged cross-sections of the same on the lines 8-8,
9-9, 10-10, and 11-11, respectively, of Figure 7.
Figure 12 is a sectional side elevation of part of the sleeve pattern, on the
line 12-12 of Figure 7.
Figure 13 is a plan view of the upper sleeve cut from the material by the sleeve
pattern, and
Figure 14 is a similar view of the under sleeve cut from the material by the
sleeve pattern.
The improved garment fitting pattern is provided with a series of plates A, B, C, D,
and E, made of leather, fabric, paper, or other suitable material, to readily conform
to the shape of the person to be measured for a garment. The plate A forms the
front or breast part of the garment, while the plate E forms the middle back part,
and the plates B, C, and D, form the several parts extending between the back
and breast. The entire pattern is preferably arranged for use in measuring but
one half of the body, as the other half will be a counterpart and hence only one half
of the wearer's body need be measured. The several plates A, B, C, D, and E,
are held temporarily in place on the wearer's body by elastic bands F, G, and H,
of which the elastic band F is crossed over the shoulders and is attached to
pins F projecting from some of the plates. The elastic band G is passed around
over the plates and is held to the latter by engaging apertures in the band with

page_text: pins Gon the plates. The lower waist band H is secured on sliding connections H'
and H3 held adjustably in guideways H2 and H respectively arranged on the
plates D and B respectively, so as to adjust the waist band to the proper height,
according to the waist of the wearer. The band H is adapted to be fastened in
place over the other plates by engaging apertures in the bands with buttons H
supported on the said several plates. Each of the plates is provided on one edge
with an adjustable strip I preferably made of.the same material as that of which the
plates are made, each strip being supported on articulated connections J made of
two or more links pivotally connected with each other and also pivotally connected
with the respective strip and the corresponding plate. The outer edge of each
strip I is adapted to conform to the edge of the next following plate at the time the
several plates are applied on the wearer's body, it being understood that the
several strips by closing or opening the articulated connections are moved in or out,
according to the configuration of the body to be measured, it, however, being under-
stood that the outer edge of a strip must abut snugly throughout its length on the
adjacent edge of the next following plate, as is plainly illustrated in Figures 1 and 2.
As each strip I is made of such inaterial as leather, for instance, it is sufficiently
flexible to readily bend the strip by opening or closing the corresponding
articulated connections J so as to bring the strip into the desired shape to cause it
to abut with its outer edge on the adjacent edge of the next following plate.
The lower part of the second plate B is preferably forked so as to more readily
conform to the shape of the wearer's body, the forked arms B2 and 133 being
formed by a recess cut in the plate as indicated in Figure 3. On the inner edge
of the forked arm B is formed an integral strip 1 similar to the strips I and
adapted to be moved inward or outward by closing or opening the articulated
connections so as to canse the strip to abut against the inner edge of the other
forked arm B³ when the pattern is applied. The outer edge B₁ of the forked
arm B2 has its lower part formed with a strip 12 which may, like the strip I', form
an integral part of the arm B2 but is preferably composed of a series of links
pivotally connected with each other at their ends and pivotally connected by
articulated connections J to the arm B2 so as to permit of adjusting the lower
part of the edge B' to a nicety. It is understood that the strip I of the plate C
abuts with its lower part against the outer edge of the strip I which outer edge
of the latter strip forms part of the edge B¹. In a similar manner the lower part
of the edge C' of the plate C is formed with a strip 13 similar in construction to
the strip and held adjustably by articulated connections J connecting the strip
with the plate C. This strip 13 is adapted to be engaged at its outer edge by the
lower part of the strip I for the plate D at the time the pattern is applied. The
plate D is similarly arranged inasmuch as the lower part of its edge D' is formed
with an adjustable strip 1 similar to the strips 13, 12, and the outer edge of this
strip is adapted to he engaged by the outer edge of the lower part of the
strip I for the back plate E. The back plate E is split at its lower end to form
two strips E' and E' connected with each other by articulated connections J so as
to adjust the inner adjacent edges of the said strips E1 and E2 to conform to the
back of the wearer's body. Several of the said connections J for the strips E¹
and E' carry the before mentioned buttons H³ for properly supporting the waist
band H, as plainly shewn in Figure 3.
In order to form the shoulder and neck I connect with the upper ends of the
strips I for the plates A, B, C, D, and F, adjustable strips L, L', L², and L³
respectively, supported on articulated connections J' attached to the corresponding
plates, as is plainly illustrated in Figures 1, 2, and 3. The shoulder strip for
each plate is made of several sections adapted to be moved one on the other, so as
to extend or shorten the same according to the height of the shoulder or neck to
be measured and fitted and also to obtain the opening at the seye.
Now when the several plates are applied to the body of the person by means of
the elastic bands F, G, and H, then the several strips 1, 11, 12, 18, and 14, are
adjusted until the corresponding edges meet and the shoulder and neck strips are

page_text: likewise moved outward so as to obtain the proper line for the scye of the sleeve
and the top shoulder line as well as the line for the neck, as will be readily
understood by reference to Figures 1 and 2. The several plates, on account of
being made of suitable flexible material, readily conform to the shape of the body
and the strips I, I, 12, 1, and I, as well as the shoulder strips L, L', L², and L³,
readily bend to properly engage the corresponding edges, as above described.
When this has been accomplished the operator removes the elastic bands F, G,
and H, to take off the plates A, B, C, D, and E, and then places the latter on the
material and traces along the edges of the strips and the edge of the plate opposite
the strip, to obtain the proper shape for the several pieces forming the garment.
It will be seen that by this arrangement the operator is free to readily move the
strips into the desired position as the articulated connections permit such movement
and the individual links of each articulated connection are fitted together tight
enough or are provided with friction washers to retain the links in proper position
after the articulated connection has been opened or closed to bring the strip to or
from the desired plate as above described. As illustrated in Figure 5, each strip I
may be made of individual sections 1' connected with each other at their ends by
links N so as to more readily adjust each strip in case the material should be too
stiff and not sufficiently pliable for the purpose above described.
As illustrated in Figure 6, each articulated connection is made of three links,
instead of two, as shewn in the other figures, but I do not limit myself to any
particular form of articulated connection.
In order to form the sleeve for the garment to be made I provide a sleeve
pattern, illustrated in Figures 7 to 14 and provided with the two upper plate
sections a and a pivotally connected with each other by the links and united
at their free ends by a pivot c. In the sections a and a' are formed the circular
slots a² and a arranged near the upper outer edges of the sections and engaged by
rivets d and d¹ respectively, attached to curved strips e to movably connect the
upper ends of the sections with each other. The sections a and a¹ are movably
connected with each other near their lower ends by a transversely-extending har j
formed with a longitudinally extending slot engaged by a clamping screw g and
a guiding pin gl both held on the section a'.
as
The inner end of the bar is fastened by rivets g² and g to the section
plainly illustrated in Figures 7 and 9. The rivet 2 as well as the clamping
screw y are adapted to be taken hold of by the operator to conveniently move the
two sections a and a¹ towards or from each other, according to the measurement
obtained from the arm of the human body measured with an ordinary tape. The
measurement thus taken is indicated by a graduation 2 formed on the top of the
bar and read off on the clamping screw g.
j
The sleeve pattern is provided with the lower sleeve sections and i of which
the latter is connected by the intermediate piece with the section a¹ the con-
nection being a pivot j', as plainly shewn in Figure 1. The piece ; and lower
sleeve section i are connected with each other by pins k and engaging corre-
sponding grooves and formed in the piece and section i, it being under-
stood that the pin is fastened to the section and the pin k¹ to the piece j.
The section his guided on the rivets g² and g³ and is held adjustable lengthwise
on the section a, the latter being provided at its lower end with a pin 7 engaging
a longitudinally-extending slot formed in the section h. The pin is formed
with a pointer indicating on a graduation 2 formed on the top of the section h
so as to indicate the length of the sleeve according to the tape measurement
obtained from the arm of the human body. The extreme lower ends of the
sections and are connected with each other by the slides and fitted to
slide one upon the other so as to permit of moving the lower ends of the sections h
and i towards or from each other, according to the width of the sleeve at the
wrist. This width is indicated by a graduation on the slide ², the measure-
ment being read on the said graduation on the end of the other slide 2.
The lower sleeve sections h and i are pivotally connected with each other by

page_text: the links n n' united by a pivot n² and by a second set of links composed of
three members of which the link is pivoted on the section and is pivotally
connected with a link o' carrying at its free end a pivot o² (see Figure 10)
connected by a link o³ with a pivot of attached to the other section h. This
pivot of extends through a slot o in the first named link o, as plainly illustrated
in Figures 7 and 10. The pivot o² forms a bearing for a rod p which loosely
passes through the pivot n² previously mentioned, also through the pivot c, and
loosely through a slide pl fitted to slide on the graduated side of the bar fabove
mentioned. Through this slide p' also passes loosely a second curved rod p² held
at its free end on a pin secured to the upper sleeve section a. On the pivot o²
screws the set-screw
to fasten the rod p in place whenever desired. Now it
will be seen that when either of the upper sleeve sections a and a' or the lower
sleeve sections and are moved towards or from each other, the said rods
and p²
will be adjusted accordingly, to indicate the outline for the under sleeve as herein-
after more fully described.
P.
The
The extreme lower ends of the lower sleeve sections h and i are provided with
extensions and respectively, fitted to slide in suitable bearings formed on the
under side of the said sections, as plainly indicated in Figure 11. The extension
is provided with a pin fitted to slide in a slot arranged in the lower end of the
sleeve section and on this pin q2 is formed a pointer ³ indicating on a graduation
arranged on the upper surface of the sleeve section h. The extension is adjusted
so that the pointer 7 reads on the same numeral for a certain length of sleeve
indicated by the pointer on the graduation 2. The other extension is moved
out to correspond with its outer end to the outer edge of the extension q.
outer edge of the lower plate section is raised by fastening a wire thereto or
turning the edge so as to form a drawing edge for indicating one edge of the
under sleeve the upper part of the said drawing edge extending over a slot at in
the upper sleeve section a, to permit the operator to conveniently draw the line
for the under sleeve on the material placed under the pattern. The upper edge of
the under sleeve is drawn from the edge along the curved rod p³ to the inter-
section of the latter with the rod and then along the latter between the sections h
and to the lower end of the said rod p. The upper ends of the sections a and a
are formed with perforations so as to form additional drawing edges a³ and a for
sleeves of different sized height or width of sleeve.
It is understood that in using the pattern the operator obtains the width of the
sleeve by tape measurement and then moves the pattern sections a and a¹ apart
until the clamping screw g indicates on the corresponding mark of the graduation
on the bar and then the operator moves the sleeve sections and i downward until
the pointer indicates the length of the intended sleeve. The extensions y and q¹
are adjusted likewise so that the pointer q3 indicates on the same mark of the
graduation as the pointer on the graduation h². The pattern is then placed on
the material from which the upper sleeve is to be cut and the operator now draws a
line along the outer edges of the sections a, a', h, i, and link e and extensions 7, 9',
to obtain the outline for upper sleeve, as illustrated in Figure 13. For sleeves of
less height the edges a' and a are used instead of the upper edges of sections a, a¹,
and links e. By adjusting the various parts for the upper sleeve, the under sleeve
is automatically obtained and can directly be traced on the material, see Figure 14,
as it will be seen that by adjusting the upper sections a, and a', the position of the
rods and is correspondingly changed as the movement of the links band
causes the upper part of the rod p to shift side wise to move the slide p' on the bar f
and when the lower sleeve sections and i are moved towards or from each other
then the rod p is again shifted at its lower end owing to the connection of the rod
with the pivots o² and n² of the sets of links 0, 0, 0³, and n, n', respectively. It
will also be seen that the piece j sliding on the section and pivotally connected
with the section a' permits of adjusting the said section longitudinally without
affecting the drawing edge for the upper sleeve between the section a', the piece j,
and section i.

page_text: It will be seen that the construction of this sleeve pattern requires no skill to
couveniently manipulate it to obtain simultaneously the proper shape of both the
upper and under sleeves, it being understood, however, that the contour of the under
sleeve is automatically obtained by adjusting the pattern for the measurements of
the upper sleeve.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is.
1. A garment fitting pattern, comprising a series of plates adapted to be held on
the wearer's body, one alongside the other, each plate being provided with an
adjustable strip adapted to fit with its outer edge the free edge of the adjacent
plate, so as to form a drawing edge for marking on the goods to be cut, and
articulated connections between the strip and the corresponding plate to permit of
moving any part of the strip inward or outward, to properly fit the strip with its
outer edge on the adjacent edge of the next following plate, substantially as shown
and described.
2. A garment fitting pattern, comprising a series of plates adapted to be held on
the wearer's body, one alongside the other, one side of each plate forming a
drawing edge, a strip held adjustably on the opposite side of the plate and adapted
to fit the adjacent drawing edge of the next following plate, so as to form a second
drawing edge to mark on the goods to be cut, and articulated connections between
each strip and the corresponding plate, to move the strip inward or outward by
opening or closing the said connections, substantially as shown and described.
3. A garment fitting pattern, comprising a series of plates adapted to be held on
the wearer's body, one alongside the other, one side of each plate forming a
drawing edge, a strip held adjustably on the opposite side of the plate and adapted
to fit the adjacent drawing edge of the next following plate, so as to form a second
drawing edge to mark on the goods to be cut, and articulated connections between
each strip and the corresponding plate, to move the strip inward or outward by
opening or closing the said connections, and separate adjustable strips held on some
of the said plates and forming part of the first named drawing edge, and articulated
connections between the separate adjustable strips and their plates, substantially as
shown and described.
4. A garment fitting pattern, comprising a series of plates adapted to be held on
the wearer's body, one alongside the other, one side of each plate forming a
drawing edge, a strip held adjustably on the opposite side of the plate and adapted
to fit the adjacent drawing edge of the next following plate, so as to form a second
drawing edge to mark on the goods to be cut, articulated connections between each
strip and the corresponding plates, to move the strip inward or outward by opening
or closing the said connections, and separate adjustable strips formed of links
pivotally-connected with each other, one end of each adjustable strip being pivoted
on the corresponding plate, and articulated connections between the said separate
adjustable strips and their plates, substantially as shown and described.
5. A garment fitting pattern, comprising a series of plates adapted to be held on
the wearer's body, one alongside the other, shoulder strips made in sections held
adjustable one on the other, and articulated connections between the said shoulder
strips and the corresponding plates, substantially as shown and described.
6: A garment fitting pattern, comprising a series of plates adapted to be held on
the wearer's body, one alongside the other, one side of each plate forming a drawing
edge, a strip held on the opposite side of the plate and adapted to fit the adjacent
drawing edge of the next following plate, so as to form a second drawing edge to
mark on the goods to be cut, articulated connections between the said strips and
their plates, separate adjustable strips held on some of the plates and forming part
of the first named drawing edge, articulated connections between the said separate
adjustable strips and their plates, shoulder strips held adjustable on the upper ends
of the said plates and pivotally-connected with the said first named strips, and

page_text: articulated connections between the said shoulder strips and their plates,
substantially as shown and described.
7. A garment fitting pattern, comprising a series of plates adapted to be held on
the wearer's body, one alongside the other, one side of each plate forming a
drawing edge, a strip held on the opposite side of the plate and adapted to fit the
adjacent drawing edge of the next following plate, so as to form a second drawing
edge to mark on the goods to be cut, articulated connections between the said
strips and their plates, separate adjustable strips held on some of the plates and
forming part of the first named drawing edge, articulated connections between the
said separate adjustable strips and their plates, shoulder strips held adjustable on
the upper ends of the said plates and pivotally-connected with the said first named
strips, articulated connections between the said shoulder strips and their plates, and
bands adapted to engage pins on the several plates to hold the latter in place on
the wearer's body, as set forth.
8. A sleeve pattern provided with adjustable sections for obtaining the outline of
the upper sleeve, and rods automatically controlled by the said sections for obtaining
the outline for the under-sleeve, substantially as described.
9. A sleeve pattern comprising two upper sections pivotally-connected with each
other by pivoted links, and a slotted bar secured on one section and guided in and
adapted to be fastened in place in the other section, substantially as shown and
described.
10. A sleeve pattern, comprising two upper sections and two lower sections, and
links pivotally-connecting the upper sections with each other and likewise the
lower sections with each other, substantially as shown and described.
11. A sleeve pattern, comprising two upper sections pivotally-connected with
each other, two lower sections pivotally connected with each other, and of which
one section is fitted to slide on the corresponding upper section, and the other
lower section is fitted to slide on an intermediate piece pivoted to the corresponding
upper section, substantially as shown and described.
12. A sleeve pattern, comprising a slide, and two rods fitted to slide in the said
slide and having each one end fastened so that the movement of the slide changes
the position of the rods, substantially as shown and described.
13. A sleeve pattern, comprising two upper sleeve sections connected with each
other by links having a pivotal connection, two lower sleeve sections connected
with each other by sets of links having pivotal connections, a bar fastened on one
upper sleeve section and guided in the other upper sleeve section, a slide fitted to
slide on the said bar, a rod loosely engaged by the said slide and engaged by the
several pivotal connections of the said links, and a second rod held on one upper
sleeve section and likewise loosely engaging the said slide, substantially as shown
and described.
Dahi 07th J... of Danamban 1902
S. CHRISTIANSEN,
By A. M. & Wm. Clark,
53, Chancery Lane, Chartered Patent Agents.