IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF PILED FABRICS
Year: 1880

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Dugald Scott, of Manchester, in the County of Lancaster,
for an Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF PILED
FABRICS."
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Dugald Scott at the Office
of the Commissioners of Patents on the 2nd October 1880.
DUGALD SCOTT, of Manchester, in the County of Lancaster.
IN THE MANUFACTURE OF PILED FABRICS."
"IMPROVEMENTS
This Invention relates principally to the manufacture of cotton weft pile fabrics,
but it is also applicable to weft pile fabrics made of other materials.
The object of the Invention is to produce damask figures of weft pile, which
damask figures can afterwards be easily cut in the usual way longitudinally of the
cloth.
Such damask figures may be distributed over the whole surface of the fabric, or
may consist of alternate stripes of damask, of weft pile, with ordinary figured
damask, or with leno or other open work, as described in the Specification of
Letters Patent granted to me and James Edelston, dated August 15th, 1879,
No. 3300.
In weaving damask figures of weft pile, there has always existed a certain
amount of difficulty in so arranging the draught that the races or drains in which
the cutting knife runs shall be so perfectly preserved that the knife, after cutting
one portion of the damask figure, and then passing over a portion of the ground or
back where there is no pile, shall, on coming to the next damask figure, enter the
opposite race or drain with absolute certainty, and continue to cut the pile.
According to my present Invention I manufacture the fabric in such a manner
that when woven it presents the appearance on the face before cutting of an
ordinary plain weft pile fabric, and so that it can be cut in the ordinary way
longitudinally of the cloth almost as easily as a plain velvet or piled fabric, and
when cut it will appear at first like an ordinary plain piled fabric with plain pile
over the whole surface; but by my Invention the fabric is so woven that after
cutting as described the pile can be readily removed from the ground portions of
the fabric, leaving the pile remaining on the figured or damask portions of the
pattern only.

page_text: In carrying my Invention into practical effect, I make use of a loom of the
ordinary construction, with the tappets, shedding motion, jacquard machine, or
other equivalent device arranged in the manner required, for floating the weft
threads over the warp threads to form the races in those parts of the pattern
which are afterwards cut to form the damask figure of weft pile, such weft pile
threads being interwoven between each float with three or more warp threads, in
the manner known as <
fast-pile weaving," whilst those portions of the pile weft
which correspond with the ground or plain part of the pattern are woven with the
common or "loose pile," the race being preserved across both portions equally.
The cloth is then cut in the usual manner, after which the loose pile is removed,
either by being brushed out at the back with teazles or stiff brushes, or it may be
sheared or burnt off, or removed in any other convenient manner, leaving the
damask pattern of fast pile.
The common or loose pile may be floated across two or more ends of the warp at
the back (instead of one only), thus making it easier both to preserve the race, and.
to remove the loose pile after cutting.
Or I interweave the loose pile (which has to be removed after cutting) with
extra warp threads at the back or on the face of the cloth, which extra warp
threads are not woven at all into the body of the cloth, and which therefore when
the pile has been cut can readily be removed, carrying with them or releasing the
loose cut pile.
In this case it is not absolutely necessary that the damask or figured portion of
the pile should be trod on the "fast pile "principle, but the pattern or damask may
be woven on the ordinary principle and the ground, according to the method last
described, or the ground may be trod on any fast pile plan.
Wires may be used in soine cases in preference to yarn for these extra warp
threads.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed
by the said Dugald Scott in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 2nd April
1881.
DUGALD SCOTT, of Manchester, in the County of Lancaster.
IN THE MANUFACTURE OF PILED FABRICS."
" IMPROVEMENTS
This Invention relates principally to the manufacture of cotton weft pile fabrics,
but it is also applicable to weft pile fabrics made of other materials.
The object of the Invention is to produce damask figures of weft pile, which
damask figures can afterwards be easily cut in the usual way longitudinally of the
cloth.
Such damask figures may be distributed over the whole surface of the fabric, or
may consist of alternate stripes of damask, of weft pile, with ordinary figured
damask, or with leno or other open work, as described in the Specification of
Letters Patent granted to me and James Edelston, dated August 15th, 1879,
No. 3300.
In weaving damask figures of weft pile there has always existed a certain
amount of difficulty in so arranging the draught that the races or drains in which
the cutting knife runs shall be so perfectly preserved that the knife, after cutting
one portion of the damask figure, and then passing over a portion of the ground or
back, where there is no pile, shall, on coming to the next damask figure, enter the
opposite race or drain with absolute certainty, and continue to cut the pile.
According to my present Invention, I manufacture the fabric in such a manner
that when woven it presents the appearance on the face before cutting of an
ordinary plain weft pile fabric, and so that it can be cut in the ordinary way
longitudinally of the cloth, almost as easily as a plain velvet or piled fabric, and
when cut it will appear at first like an ordinary plain piled fabric with plain
pile over the whole surface; but by my Invention the fabric is so woven that
after cutting, as described, the pile can be readily removed from the ground
portions of the fabric, leaving the pile remaining on the figured damask portions of
the pattern only.
Such being the nature and object of my said Invention, I will now proceed to
describe in detail the manner in which the same is to be or may be performed or
carried into practical effect; and in order that the same may be clearly understood I
have annexed hereunto three Sheets of Diagrams illustrative thereof, and have
marked the same with figures and letters of reference corresponding with those in
the following explanation thereof :-
In carrying my Invention into practical effect, I make use of a loom of the
ordinary construction, with the tappets, shedding motion, jacquard machine (or
other equivalent device) arranged in the manner required for floating the weft
threads over the warp threads, to form the races in those parts of the pattern
which are afterwards cut to form the damask figure of weft pile, such weft pile
threads being interwoven between each "float" with three or more warp threads in
the manner known as fast pile" weaving, whilst those portions of the pile weft
which correspond with the ground or plain part of the pattern are woven with a
"loose pile," the "race" being preserved across both portions equally.
"
As an illustration the Diagram marked "A" in the Sheet 1 annexed is a
drawing of a damask velvet design, the black portion representing "pile," and the
white portion "ground."
11
The black (or "fast pile") portion is woven according to the "tie-up
represented by draught No. 1, and the white (or "loose pile") portion according
to the tie-up" shown on draught No. 1a, care being taken to preserve the
This "tie-up" (ten warp threads and fifty picks) will make a plain
CE
race."
"
ground,

page_text: «
"
Tie-up No. 2 (thirty warp threads and seventy five picks) for the "fast pile
portion, and No. 2 a for the "loose pile" portion will make a "twill ground;" and
tie-up" No. 3 (thirty warp threads and one hundred and fifty picks) for the
"fast pile" portion, and No. 3 a for the loose pile will make a "fancy" ground.
If required to make a stronger ground, more ground picks may be used in
proportion to the pile picks.
The cloth being woven as above described, is then cut in the usual manner, and
will then present almost the same appearance as an ordinary plain velvet with pile
over the entire surface, after which the "loose pile" is to be removed either by
being brushed out at the back with teazles or stiff brushes, or it may be rubbed off,
or sheared or burnt off, or removed in any other convenient manner, leaving the
damask pattern of "fast pile."
The "loose pile" may be floated across three or more ends of the warp at the
back, according to the nature of the cloth required.
Another way of removing the "loose pile" from the "ground" portions of the
fabric is as follows:-I interweave the "loose pile" (which has to be removed after
cutting) with extra warp threads at the back of the cloth, which extra warp
threads are not woven at all into the body of the cloth, and which therefore when
the pile has been cut can readily be removed, carrying with them or releasing the
loose cut pile.
As an illustration of this "extra warp" system of weaving the fabric, draught
No. 4 represents the tie-up (twelve warp threads and ten picks, eight shaft pile),
for weaving the black or "damask" portion of the design (Diagram A), where the
pile is not required to be removed, the extra warp threads 3, 6, 9, 12, floating
loosely on the back; and draught No. 4b represents the " tie-up" for weaving the
white or "ground" portion of the pattern, wherein the extra warp is interwoven
with the weft, and when removed after cutting draws away with it (or releases)
the pile from the "ground" portions of the design.
Draughts No. 5 and 5 b (thirty six warp threads and thirty picks, eight shaft
pile) are the damask and "ground" tie-ups employed when a "twill" ground is
required, and No. 6, and 66 are the corresponding "tie-ups" for producing a
'fancy" ground.
"
In weaving on this "extra warp" system, it is not absolutely necessary that the
damask or figured portion of the fabric should be trod on the "fast pile "principle;
but the pattern or damask may be woven on the ordinary principle of weaving
plain weft velvets.
Wires may also be used in some cases in preference to yarn for these extra warp
threads.
"
Having now described the nature and object of my said Invention, together with
the manner in which the same is to be or may be performed or carried into
practical effect, I wish it to be understood that I do not wish to confine myself to
the particular "draughts" or tie-ups" shown for the sake of illustrating the
principle; but I claim as my Invention in weaving damask of weft pile fabric, the
method of forming the figure by removing the weft pile (after being cut) from
those portions of the cloth where the "ground" is intended to appear; and
secondly, I claim the methods herein described of weaving the fabric, so as to
facilitate the removal of the pile from such portions of the fabric.
In witness whereof, I, the said Dugald Scott, have hereunto set my hand
and seal, this First day of April, in the year of our Lord One thousand
eight hundred and eighty one.
DUGALD SCOTT. (L.S.)

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