THE IMPARTING OF AN IMPROVED SURFACE OR APPEARANCE TO FABRICS WOVEN WITH MIXED MATERIALS
Year: 1862

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Godfrey Thomas Hope Pattison, of Glasgow, in
the County of Lanark, North Britain, Finisher, for the Invention of
"THE IMPARTING OF AN IMPROVED SURFACE OR APPEARANCE TO FABRICS
WOVEN WITH MIXED MATERIALS."
Sealed the 3rd March 1863, and dated the 16th October 1862.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Godfrey Thomas Hope
Pattison at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his
Petition, on the 16th October 1862.
I, GODFREY THOMAS HOPE PATTISON, of Glasgow, in the County of
Lanark, North Britain, Finisher, do hereby declare the nature of the said
Invention of "THE IMPARTING OF AN IMPROVED SURFACE OR APPEARANCE TO
FABRICS WOVEN WITH MIXED MATERIALS," to be as follows, that is to say :-
This Invention relates to the treating of fabrics woven with mixed
materials so as to impart to them an improved surface, and a novel and
superior appearance, finish, or lustre.
The Invention is peculiarly and satisfactorily applicable to "delaines," or
other worsted and cotton fabrics, in which the warp is cotton, and the weft
worsted, but it may also be applied to other fabrics having the weft of a
material different from that of the warp.
Hitherto printed calicoes, and other fabrics consisting of one material only,
as cotton, for example, have been acted upon by various "finishing" processes,

page_text: wherein they have been subjected to the embossing action of heated rollers
variously engraved, and in some cases to friction or rubbing also, but a uniform
or equal effect has thereby been produced upon both weft and warp in con-
sequence of their consisting of the same material.
Now the present applicant has discovered that the same embossing or
finishing action produces quite different or unequal effects upon threads of
different materials, such as cotton and worsted, for example, the cotton retaining
very completely the impression, lustre, or glaze produced by the embossing,
whilst the worsted from its greater elasticity retains the impression very
slightly, if at all.
The Invention accordingly consists in subjecting fabrics woven with different
materials, such as cotton and worsted, to an embossing finishing action such
as has hitherto been applied only to fabrics woven with a single material, it
being however preferred to use an iron or steel embossing surface.
By these means there is obtained a new and superior result, the embossed
impression retained by the cotton threads yielding in some lights or directions
of view a lustrous or silky appearance, beautifully modulated and subdued by
the interference of the worsted threads, which have retained an unembossed
or unglazed character, whilst the cotton and worsted fabric is rendered in
appearance equal or nearly so to a silk and worsted fabric..
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Godfrey Thomas Hope Pattison in the Great, Seal
Patent Office on the 15th April 1863.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, GODFREY
THOMAS HOPE PATTISON, of Glasgow, in the County of Lanark, North Britain,
Finisher, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Sixteenth day of October, in the year of our:
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-two, in the twenty-sixth year:
of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto
me, the said Godfrey Thomas Hope Pattison, Her special licence that I,.
the said Godfrey Thomas Hope Pattison, my executors, administrators, and
assigns, or such others as I, the said Godfrey Thomas. Hope. Pattison, my:
executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with, and
no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the term.

page_text: therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend,
within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel
Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "THE IMPARTING OF AN IMPROVED
SURFACE OR APPEARANCE TO FABRICS WOVEN WITH MIXED MATERIALS," upon
the condition (amongst others) that I, the said Godfrey Thomas Hope
Pattison, my executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing
under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe
and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same
was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal
Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the date
of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Godfrey Thomas Hope Pattison, do
hereby declare the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in
and by the following statement in writing; that is to say:-
My said Invention relates to the imparting of an improved surface, and
a novel and superior appearance, finish, or lustre, to fabrics woven with mixed
materials, that is to say, having warps of cotton and a weft of worsted, such
as printed delaines, and including, fabrics woven with a stripe, check, or other
pattern, if the ground of the fabric is woven with cotton warps and worsted
weft.
"
It has been a common practice to impart what is called in Glasgow a "silk"
finish," and what may be more distinctively termed the "diagonal silk finish,"
to fabrics woven of one material, such as cotton, printed handkerchiefs for
example, by passing the fabric between a counter pressure bowl or bowls
having a paper surface, and a heated metal roller having what is known as
a "slash" pattern engraved upon it, such slash pattern consisting of lines
engraved or indented in the roller surface at an inclination to the length of
the roller of about 45 degrees of the circle, and in number ranging from
fifteen to eighty lines per inch as measured across the lines, the number being
varied according to the fineness of the fabric as is well understood by finishers
of printed handkerchiefs. By this process a uniform or equal effect has been
produced upon both warps and weft, in consequence of their consisting of
the same material, and the continuity of the embossed lines, or twilled
appearance, has been more decided and apparent than is consistent with the
object of the present Invention.
"
Now I have discovered that the embossing or finishing action of a "slash
engraved roller, such as has been referred to, produces quite different or
unequal effects upon cotton threads and worsted threads, when applied under

page_text: the same circumstances to both, the cotton retaining very completely the
impression, lustre, or glaze produced by the embossing, whilst the worsted
from its greater elasticity retains the impression very slightly, if at all.
My said Invention accordingly consists in subjecting fabrics, such as
printed delaines woven with a cotton warp and worsted weft, to the embossing
finishing action of a "slash" engraved roller with its accompanying counter-
pressure bowls, and there is thereby obtained a new, very beautiful, and
superior result, the embossed impression retained by the cotton threads
yielding in some lights or directions of view a lustrous or silky appearance,
modulated and subdued by the interference of the worsted threads, which
have retained an unembossed and unglazed character, and which prevent the
embossing action from imparting a too decidedly twilled appearance to the
fabric. The cotton and worsted fabric is rendered in appearance equal or
nearly so to a Foulard delaine or silk and worsted fabric, and one important
advantage of the process consists in its making the fabric appear to be woven
of finer yarns than it really is.
In practising my Invention in the case of printed or dyed delaines, for
example, the fabric after it is printed is washed off as usual; but instead of
simply hot-pressing and folding it in the ordinary way, it is slightly damped
with water, which, in some cases, may with advantage have a little starch or
gum dissolved in it, and after lying for a quarter or half an hour it is passed
between the "slash" engraved roller and its accompanying counter-pressure
bowl or bowls, arranged and driven as in ordinary embossing machines, and is
then folded ready for the market.
I prefer to use a "slash" engraved roller of one of the improved kinds
described in the Specification of Letters Patent for "Improvements in
Machinery or Apparatus for Embossing or Finishing Woven Fabrics," of the
same date as the herein-before in part recited Letters Patent, and bearing the
number 2792.
Having thus particularly described my said Invention, and in what manner
the same is or may be performed, I have to state that although in my
Provisional Specification, lodged with my application for Letters Patent,
other mixed fabrics besides cotton and worsted fabrics were referred to,
and also other kinds of engraving besides the diagonal or "slash" engraving,
I do not now make any claim in respect thereof, but what I believe to be
novel and original, and do claim as the Invention secured to me by the
herein-before in part recited Letters Patent, is, the producing of a new
and improved surface appearance or finish upon woven fabrics by subjecting
mixed fabrics, woven with cotton warps and worsted weft, to a "slash
"

page_text: engraved roller, the impression due to which is retained only or chiefly by
the cotton, substantially as herein-before described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Godfrey Thomas Hope Pattison, have
hereunto set my hand and seal, this Thirteenth day of April,
in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-
three.
GODFREY T. H. PATTISON. (L.S.)
Witness,
EDMUND HUNT,
Patent Agent,
28, St. Enoch Square,
Glasgow.