IMPROVE- MENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ORNAMENTAL WOVEN FABRICS. WHEN CHENILLE IS EMPLOYED
Year: 1860

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to James Leonard and Bernhard Lorentz, of Skinners
Place, Size Lane, in the City of London, for the Invention of "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ORNAMENTAL WOVEN FABRICS. WHEN CHENILLE
IS EMPLOYED." ..
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said James Leonard and
Bernhard Lorentz' at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with
their 'Petition, on the 2nd November' 1860.
We, JAMES LEONARD and BERNHARD LORENTZ,. of Skinners Place, Size
Lane, in the City of London, do hereby declare the nature of the Invention
for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ORNAMENTED WOVEN FABRICS WHEN
CHENILLE IS EMPLOYED," to be as follows:-
This Invention has for its object improvements in the manufacture of
ornamented woven fabrics when chenille is employed. Heretofore chenille has
been employed in weaving ornamented fabrics in such manner that the
ornamental pattern or device produced by the chenille has been' all over the
fabric produced.
Now according to the present Invention the ornamental pattern or device
produced by the chenille is caused to appear in the midst of a ground of other
weavings produced by ordinary warp and weft, and such ground or other weaving
may be plain or fi ured. For these purposes the chenille used may be made

page_text: by any of the ordinary modes of chenille weaving, but it is preferred that the
chenille employed in carrying out this Invention should be such as can bo
conveniently made by apparatus described in the Specification of a Patent
granted to James Leonard, dated 28th March 1860, No. 802, and that the
chenille should be woven or produced at intervals, leaving suitable intervals or
spaces between the chenille weavings according to the distances the patterns
or devices are to be apart when such chenille is woven into an ornamental
fabric according to this Invention; the intermediate portions between the
chenille weavings being used, by preference, as the ordinary warp or weft, or
such parts may be cut away between pattern and pattern.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said James Leonard and Bernhard Lorentz in the Great Seal
Patent Office on the 2nd May 1861.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, JAMES
LEONARD and BERNHARD LORENTZ, of Skinners Place, Size Lane, in the City
of London, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Second day of November, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty, in the twenty-fourth year of Her reign,
did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto us, the said
James Leonard and Bernhard Lorentz, Her special licence that we, the said
James Leonard and Bernhard Lorentz, our executors, administrators, and
assigns, or such others as we, the said James Leonard and Bernhard Lorentz,
our executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with,
and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the
term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel
Islands and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFAC-
TURE OF ORNAMENTED WOVEN FABRICS WHEN CHENILLE IS EMPLOYED," upon the
condition (amongst others) that we, the said James Leonard and Bernhard
Lorentz, our executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under
our or their hands and seals, or under the hand and seal of one of us or them,
should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention,
and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to
be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next
and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.

page_text: NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Bernhard Lorentz, on behalf of myself
and the said James Leonard, do hereby declare the nature of the said Inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement thereof, that is
to say :-
This Invention has for its object improvements in the manufacture of
ornamented woven fabrics when chenille is employed. Heretofore chenille
has been employed in weaving ornamented fabrics in such manner that the
ornamental pattern or device produced by the chenille has been all over the
fabric produced.
Now according to the present Invention the ornamental pattern or devico
produced by the chenille is caused to appear in the midst of a ground of other
weavings produced by ordinary warp and weft, and such ground or other
weaving may be plain or figured. For these purposes the chenille used may
be made by any of the ordinary modes of chenille weaving, but it is preferred
that the chenille employed in carrying out this Invention should be such as
can be conveniently made by apparatus described in the Specification of a
Patent granted to James Leonard, dated 28th March 1860, No. 802, and
that the chenille should be woven or produced at intervals, leaving suitable
intervals or spaces between the chenille weavings according to the distances
the patterns or devices are to be apart when such chenille is woven into an
ornamental fabric. according to this Invention; the intermediate portions
between the chenille weavings being used, by preference, as the ordinary warp
or weft, or such parts may be cut away between pattern and pattern.
Having thus stated the nature of the said Invention, we will proceed more
fully to describe the manner of performing the same.
.
In order to employ chenille at intervals as ornaments on the surfaces of
fabrics woven with ordinary warp and weft, the chenille employed is not
generally made continuous, as heretofore, but the longitudinal yarns employed
in making the chenille are to have the transverse or pile yarns only applied
and woven or fastened in at intervals, by which there will be spaces of pile
and spaces without pile, so that when such chenille is employed as warp or
weft in weaving other fabrics, the chenille weavings will only appear at intervals
apart, whilst the other parts of the fabric will consist of ordinary weavings.
Heretofore for the most part when chenille has been employed in producing
ornamental weavings the same has been used as weft, and according to the
present Invention it is preferred to employ the spaced chenille as weft, though
a weaver accustomed to such classes of weaving will, from the description herein

page_text: given, readily employ chenille weavings as warps in weaving, should he wish
to do so.
The peculiar character of this Invention consists in employing chenille at
intervals as a means of ornamenting fabrics otherwise woven of plain warp
and weft.
Spaced chenille for carrying out this Invention may be produced by any of
the ordinary modes of weaving or producing chenille; it may, however, be
stated that the machine described in the Specification of the former Patent
above mentioned will be found very convenient for the purpose. Supposing
spaced chenille is to be used as weft in weaving fabrics, then an ordinary warp
will be employed (whether for producing plain or figured weavings), and the
same will be shot with ordinary weft, except at intervals, and then one or
more spaced chenille wefts will be thrown in in succession. In those cases
where the whole of the chenillo weft is to be woven into the fabrics, and to
remain as weft therein, that is, where the plain parts of the chenille weft are
not to be cut away between pattern and pattern, then the yarns used in making
the spaced chenille should be such as to admit of their remaining in the fabric,
and the same should consequently correspond as nearly as may be required
with the other weft used in producing those parts of the fabric where the
chenille ornaments do not come. Or the spaced chenille weft may be so thrown
into proper sheds in a warp as to admit of the yarns between the chenille parts
of the weft being cut away between the localities where the chenille parts of
the weft appear in the fabrics, by which, in fact, the chenille will only act as
extra weft at those parts, and the fabric will otherwise be shot with ordinary
weft. Or, in place of spaced chenille being used short lengths of ordinary
chenille may be employed, and introduced by hand into the sheds opened in a
warp, by which a similar result will be obtained to that last described, viz.,
additional weft in short lengths will be introduced at those places where it is
desired to ornament a fabric at intervals with chenille.
In witness whereof, I, the said Bernhard Lorentz, have hereunto set my
band and seal, this Second day of May, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and sixty-one.
BERNHARD LORENTZ. (L.S.)