IMPROVEMENTS IN THE METHOD OF CUTTING FUSTIANS, COTTON VELVETS, AND OTHER PILED GOODS OR FABRICS
Year: 1854

page_text: County
Lancaster, Dyer and Finisher, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN
THE METHOD OF CUTTING FUSTIANS, COTTON VELVETS, AND OTHER PILED GOODS
OR FABRICS."
Sealed the 13th February 1855, and dated the 19th August 1854.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said James Worrall at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 19th
August 1854.
I, JAMES WORRALL, junior, of Salford, in the County of Lancaster, Dyer
and Finisher, do hereby declare the nature of my said Invention for "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN THE METHOD OF CUTTING FUSTIANS, COTTON VELVETS, AND OTHER PILED
GOODS OR FABRICS," to be as follows:-
My Invention relates to cutting fustians, velvets, or piled goods or fabrics
by hand, and is designed to aid and assist the cutter or operator by means of
certain machinery or apparatus not hitherto employed for such purposes,
consists in the use or employment of a suitable arrangement of apparatus
which shall distend the cloth or piece to be cut, both in a longitudinal direction,
that is, from end to end, and in a transverse direction also, that is, from selvage
to selvage. The cloth to be cut is to be placed over two distending rollers, and
forming, as it were, an endless band, (or over a cylinder, if preferred,) and is

page_text: caused to advance to the knife of the cutter, instead of the cutter advancing
with his knife, as heretofore practised in hand cutting. The cloth so distended
is now caused to advance as required by suitable gearing, which motion may
bo started and stopped by self-acting means, or by the hand of the cutter, as
most convenient. The workman or cutter now stands in front or at the end
of the machine or frame in which the cloth is distended. Having one end of
the piece in a convenient position before him, he inserts the ordinary cutting
knife into the race of the cloth nearest one selvage. The cloth now travelling
from end to end, it will be evident that the whole length of that race (or the
entire length of the piece) will be cut, the operator having no more to do than
to hold his knife in a proper position for cutting the file whilst the cloth
advances, instead of inserting his knife and passing it out after a certain short
length has been cut, as heretofore done. This one complete race or cord having
been cut, the knife is inserted in the next race, cutting that also from end to
end, as before, and so on, continuously, throughout the entire width of the piece
to be cut; and by such an operation the imperfections in the file occasioned
by the "setting" in of the knife after each short length has been cut (as in
the usual manner) is obviated, each separate race having been completely cut
open from end to end of the piece without once removing the knife. It will
be evident that many slight modifications or variations may be made in the
arrangement or construction of suitable machinery adapted or employed for
this purpose, and to the precise arrangement, therefore, I do not limit myself,
provided the essential features of my Invention be retained; that is, first causing
the cloth to advance from end to end towards the cutter or operative whilst
using his ordinary hand-cutting knife, instead of his proceeding along the side
of the cloth and entirely cutting the whole width of a short portion or length
of the cloth, as heretofore practised; and, secondly, by such method or process,
enabling the cutter or operative to cut each single race the entire length of
the piece without removing his knife, and to perform this operation throughout
the entire width of the piece consecutively upon each race.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said James Worrall in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
19th February 1855.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JAMES
WORRALL, junior, of Salford, in the County of Lancaster, Dyer and Finisher,
send greeting.

page_text: WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Nineteenth day of August, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-four, in the eighteenth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the
said James Worrall, Her especial license that I, the said James Worrall, my
executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said James
Worrall, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the
term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel
Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE METHOD OF
CUTTING FUSTIANS, COTTON VELVETS, AND OTHER PILED GOODS OR FABRICS," upon the
condition, amongst others, that I, the said James Worrall, by an instrument
in writing under my hand and seal, should particularly describe and ascertain
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be
performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office
within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said
Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said James Worrall, do hereby declare the
nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement and accompanying Drawings (that is to say):-
My Invention relates to cutting fustians, velvets, or other piled goods or
fabrics by hand, and is so designed to aid and assist the cutter or operator by
means of certain machinery or apparatus not hitherto employed for such
purposes, and consists in the use or employment of a suitable arrangement of
apparatus which shall distend the cloth or piece to be cut, both in a longitudinal
direction, that is, from end to end, and in a transverse direction also, that is,
from selvage to selvage. The cloth to be cut is to bo placed over two distend-
ing rollers, and forming, as it were, an endless band (or over a cylinder, if
preferred), and is caused to advance to the knife of the cutter, instead of the
cutter advancing with his knife, as heretofore practised in hand cutting. The
cloth so distended is now caused to advance as required by suitable gearing,
which motion may be started and stopped by self-acting means, or by the hand
of the cutter, as most convenient. The workman or cutter should stand in
front or at the end of the machine or frame in which the cloth is distended,
having one end of the piece in a convenient position before him, and insert
the ordinary cutting knife into the race of the cloth nearest the selvage. The
cloth travelling from end to end, it will be evident that the whole length of

page_text: that race (or the entire length of the piece) will be cut, the operator having
no more to do than to hold his knife in a proper position for cutting the pile
whilst the cloth advances, instead of inserting his knife and passing it out
after a certain short length has been cut, as heretofore done.
This one
complete race having been cut, the knife is inserted in the next race, cutting
that also from end to end, as before, and so on, continuously, throughout the
entire width of the piece to be cut; and by such an operation the imperfections
in the pile occasioned by the "setting" in of the knife after each short length
has been cut (as in the usual manner) is obviated, each separate race having
been completely cut open from end to end of the piece without once removing
the knife. The machine may be so constructed that the fustian cutter can
form or cut a race" varying from one inch long to one hundred and twenty
yards or more in length, instead of being limited to about two yards, as is now
the case on the fustian cutters' frame at present in general use. The machine
may consist of a framing of iron, wood, or any other suitable metal or material,
having two sides fixed, and one other side between the said two fixed sides to
be moveable, so that it may be adjusted transversely, according to the width of
the cloth required to be cut; for instance, 1½ ell, 3, or 4 velveteen, cord, or
velvet, or other like fabric. Or the machine or apparatus may be so con-
structed (as hereafter particularly described and illustrated by accompanying
Drawings) as to render the employment of the third frame or side unne-
cessary, and thus simplify and economise the machine or apparatus. The
machine may be made of any length found convenient, say, from about 15
to 50 yards long from end to end, and a judicious height or elevation will be
about 4 or 5 feet from the floor, upon which the machine may stand; in
such case it will be necessary to construct a light platform for the operative
cutter to perform his work. At each end of the machine must be secured
a shaft or axle, upon each of which are placed two pullies or drums.
The diameter of one set of drums may be about the height of the framing,
each set of pullies or drums working within the framing of the machine.
Each set of pullies revolve with the shaft or axle, and one of each set
of pullies must be secured close to the side of the frame, and must be a
fixture upon its axle, although it is only necessary that one pulley of either
set should be capable of being shifted. When three sides are employed
in the framing, two of the three sides must be made perfectly level, even, and
smooth at the top, and under the bottom side, namely, the frame side, which
shall be next to the workman or fustian cutter; and also the moveable side,
namely, the side between the two outer sides of the frame; and in the said two
sides must be a groove for the V or key to slide in, which will be fixed to the

page_text: apparatus, hereafter described, for holding the cloth in such a position as to be
kept to one uniform width. Upon and over the pullies or drums at each end
of the machine must be drawn two endless belts or chains, extending from end
to end of the machine, each belt or chain passing over and under its respective
pullies; upon these endless belts or chains must be fixed clamps or some like
suitable means for holding fast the selvages or edges of the cloth; or it may be
done by flat metal plates, in which are fixed pins or points at a proper distance
from each other, which shall hold fast the selvages or edges of the fabric, and
these belts or chains being supported by the frame sides and kept in their
proper position by the grooves made in the frame sides, to receive the V" or
slots, and also in the pullies. It will be understood that when the cloth is
fixed into these clamps, or upon the pin points (as may be), it can be tightly
distended, and also held in the position required; say, one end of the cloth
having been fixed into the clamps or upon the pin points, the whole piece
must be similarly fixed from end to end in the machine, when, by giving rotary
motion to the pullies, such motion will be transferred to the endless belts or
chains, which, having been adjusted to the proper stretch and width, will hold
fast and tighten the cloth. Thus it will be understood that the piece of
cloth, whether it be thirty yards or one hundred yards in length, will be com-
pletely distended both transversely and longitudinally. The piece of cloth
having been placed in the machine, as described, and also having been pre-
viously prepared for cutting in the ordinary manner, by stiffening, liming, &c.,
it remains now for the workman to place himself in a proper position at the
front or end of the machine frame, as may be most conveniently arranged for
him, and having one of the ends of the piece of cloth in the most convenient
position before him, he inserts his ordinary cutting knife into the race of the
cloth, causes the pullies to be put in motion and the cloth to be moved from
end to end, which enables him with his knife to cut open the race of the cloth,
and form the pile of one race from end to end of the cloth; which being
effected, he then places the knife into the next race and cuts it open as before,
and so on, until he has cut open the whole number of races required, namely,
from selvage to selvage, and from end to end.
.Having described a machine which may be made applicable to the purposes
herein required, it will be evident that any modified arrangement of suitable
apparatus may be similarly employed, preserving the essential features of my
Invention, namely, holding the whole piece of cloth tight and firm from end
to end and from selvage to selvage, such machinery being put in motion
either by steam or other power, which also puts the piece of cloth in motion,
and the cloth in the machine is thus presented to the workman who guidos

page_text: the fustian cutters' knife in a continuous, uniform, and even manner, so
suitable, that the workman holding and directing the knife, which by his skill
and practice he is best enabled so to do, he can feel and keep the knife within
the proper race to be cut open, and having perfect control over the machine
by means of proper "throwing in and out gear," he can stop or start the
motion of the cloth instantly, and at the moment he feels and knows the knife
makes a slip or false race or cut; and also that he is enabled to cut a race the
whole length of the piece of cloth, let it be either thirty or one hundred yards
long, instead of about two yards long, the limit of the present fustian-cutting
frame. Thus it will be seen that the race of cloth is put into motion and
brought into contact with the point and edge of the fustian cutter's knife,
instead of the fustian cutter having to put into motion the knife, and pass it
along with its point and edge pushed into contact with the cloth for the
limited distance of about two yards, which is about the usual distance or
length of cutting between "setting in" and "coming out," and which very
frequently forms an unsightly joining of the pile, and is the cause of much
damage and loss.
In order that this Invention may be more fully explained in detail, I have
hereunto attached two Sheets of Drawing, illustrative of a machine or
apparatus for effecting the object or end as herein described, having marked
in each Figure the similar letters of reference upon corresponding parts of
the apparatus or machinery. Figs. 1, 2, and 3 (Sheet 1) are made upon a
scale of about one inch and a half to the foot, and Fig. 4 is about full size.
Fig. 1 (Sheet 1) represents a longitudinal side elevation of a machine, shewing
the large drum or pulley and driving pulleys attached at the opposite end of
the framing, the small drum or pulley above which the fustian cutter com-
iences entting his race, the worm and worm wheels (operated upon by the
fustian cutter) attached to the longitudinal rods, and bevil gearing, which act
upon the adjusting screws. Fig. 2 (Sheet 1) exhibits a front elevation, the
same showing the set of small pulleys or drums, the worms and worm wheels,
and adjusting screws which they regulate, as well as the T groove and bowl,
for steadying the adjustable frame. Fig. 3 (Sheet 1) represents a transverse
sectional elevation of Fig. 1, and illustrates the set of large drums or pulleys
and driving pulley, sectional framing with endless band inserted, standards for
driving gear, adjusting screws with bevil gearing; the red line represents the
fustian distended upon the pins of the endless belts or bands. Fig. 4 (Sheet 1)
is a transverse sectional view (about full size) of the upper part of the adjust-
able framing, shewing the channel in which the endless belt or band traverses,
the fustian distended upon the pins, and a friction roller, a series of which are

page_text: placed beneath the traversing belt or band, thereby considerably lessening its
friction. Fig. 5 (Sheet 2) is a top or plan view of Fig. 1 (Sheet 1), and
illustrates the various positions of the several parts mentioned in the foregoing
Figures. Previously to describing in detail the various motions, it will be
observed that but two framings are used in constructing this machine, whereby
great economy is ensured. The framing a, a, is stationary, and may be
secured in its position in any manner most convenient; the second framing
b, b, is a shifting framing, steadied by the T groove c and d, and caused to
traverse easily by running on the bowls e, e. Supposing the fustian to be
operated upon to be extended from end to end by hand, the selvages being
placed upon the pins f. f, of the endless straps or bands g, g, the operative
cutter then applies a winch handle to the shaft h of the worms i and j, which
operate upon the worm wheels and 1; motion is thus transmitted to the
longitudinal bars m, m, extending nearly the entire length of the framing,
having mounted on them the bevil pinions n, n. These bevil pinions by
gearing into the bevil wheels o, o, cause then to revolve upon the adjusting
screws p, p, the screws being formed upon the opposite end of the same shaft
which carries the bevil wheel o; it will be understood that when the operative
has thus applied the motion, the screws p, p, will, by working in the nuts q, q,
secured to the shifting framing b, b, cause the shifting or adjustable framing
b, b, to traverse in either lateral direction, and thus either distend the cloth
already secured on the pins or allow it to fall loose. It may be necessary that
to perfect the evenness of the straining or distending of a fabric, a slight
extra longitudinal stretch would require to be given; this, if necessary, is
effected by the smaller pulleys r, r, being rendered adjustable by the screws 5, 5,
secured to the framing, the shaft of the small set of pulleys working in a slot
of the framing. The motions or adjustments having been performed, and the
fustian yielding a continuous, even, and uniform stretch, the fabric is now
ready for the operation of the fustian cutter, who, by the aid of any suitable
arrangement of leverage or mechanism, throws the driving pulley t into gear
with the driving strap; the driving pulley being mounted and secured on the
same shaft as the large pulleys or drums u, u, motion is immediately commu-
nicated to them. These large pulleys u, u, must be of sufficient circumference
that the bind of the endless straps running in the channels of the large pulleys
shall fully resist and overcome all friction of the endless straps or bands
running in the top and bottom channels of the framing, as well as the slight
resistance of the fustian cutter, &c. On the upper surface of each framing a
channel r, r, is formed, for the purpose of receiving the endless straps g. 9;
these are delivered at either end on the same level and into similar channels

page_text: on the peripheries of both sets of drums 7, r, and u, u. Above the small drums
or pulleys, r, the fustian lies ready for the cutter to commence operations.
The machine being started, the endless straps pass over and partially around
the small pulleys r, r, and are again delivered to the curved portion of the
under chase or channel ; thence continuing along the horizontal portion of
the under channel, the straps are delivered on a level to the channel of the
large drum at its lower periphery; thence around the large pulleys to their
upper peripheries, and from thence on a level, continuing and completing their
revolutions above the small pulleys; by this time one race is cut and the next
presents itself; thus will be seen the continuous endless motion of the cloth.
It now remains simply for the fustian cutter to insert his knife successively
into each race of the cloth as it presents itself, one entire race being cut at
each perfect revolution of the bands or belts. In case of accident, the
machine may be at once stopped and thrown out of gear by any appropriate
and simple arrangement of mechanism. Should it be desired to cut a fustian
considerably shorter than the machine, it would be advisable to attach to the
machine a reversing motion, so that as each race is cut, the machine with
the fustian may be reversed, and the next race speedily presented to the
cutter; but in the case of the machine running at a moderate velocity, and
the fustian under operation being nearly the entire length of the machine, it
would be barely loss of time to allow the machine to make its continuous and
perfect revolutions. In consequence of the expansion of the framing, it will
be necessary that the pulley next to the sliding frame shall be in some manner
secured to it, so that the channels of these pulleys may be always opposite
the upper and lower channels of the framing, and the line of band or belt may
be perfectly straight and continuous. This is effected by forming the inner
periphery of the rim or tyre of each shifting pulley or drum like a box pulley,
as at y, y, (Fig. 2; Sheet 1). In this channel are four small bowls,, each
secured to and adjustable on the framing; by this means is insured the correct
adjustment of the pulley, and by a set screw passing through the boss of the
wheel it is fastened on the shaft when working. When the shifting, motion
takes place the set screw must be loosened; for steadiness and firmness of
working, it is preferable to mount the driving apparatus and larger pulleys or
druns on separate and strong standards.
It will be evident that many slight modifications or variations may be made
in the arrangement or construction of suitable machinery adapted or employed
for this purpose, and to the precise arrangement, therefore, herein described I
do not limit myself, provided the essential features of niy Invention be retained;
but what I claim as my Invention is,-.

page_text: First, causing the cloth to advance from end to end towards the cutter or
operator whilst using his ordinary hand-cutting knife, instead of his proceeding
along the side of the cloth, and entirely cutting the whole width of a short
portion or length of the cloth, as heretofore practised.
And, secondly, by such method or process enabling the cutter or operative
to cut each single race the entire length of the piece without removing his
knife, and to perform this operation throughout the entire width of the piece
consecutively upon each race.
And, lastly, the suitable arrangement or construction of apparatus or
machinery for conveniently carrying out the principles of my Invention for
improvements in cutting fustians, cotton velvets, and other piled goods or
fabrics.
In witness whereof, I, the said James Worrall, junior, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Sixteenth day of February, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-five.
JAMES WORRALL, J. (L.S.)