Improvements in Marking Patterns or the like on Cloth or other Material, and Apparatus for Use therewith.
Year: 1895

page_text: Date of Application, 7th Mar., 1895
Complete Specification Left, 17th Oct., 1895-Accepted, 23rd Nov., 1895
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Marking Patterns or the like on Cloth or other
Material, and Apparatus for Use therewith.
I. ETIENNE QUENNOY, of 21 Boulevard Poissonnière Paris in the Republic
of France Cutter-out, do hereby declare the nature of my invention to be Rs
follows:-
This invention rolates to improvements in marking out or tracing patterns or the
like on cloth or other material and to apparatus for use therewith.
The various pieces of cloth or the like forming articles for example of wearing
apparel have hitherto been marked out by means of patterns which are cut out
and arranged ou the cloth or fabric, and the outlines are then traced round with
chalk. This method of procedure demands a certain amount of skill on the part
of the workman to keep truly to the outlines and to group or arrange the patterns
so as to obtain as little waste of material as possible and there is a considerable
loss of time.
According to my invention 1 employ apparatus for effecting this tracing in place
of the manual tracing just described. For this purpose I form printing surfaces
which reproduce previously arranged patterns of wearing apparel or the like and [
mount the said printing surfaces on a printing machine and use them as ordinary
printing surfaces for transferring or printing on the material the outlines of the
different pieces constituting the apparel. The cloth or the like may then be cut
out in the ordinary manner with the certainty that all the pieces are of uniform
size, the moterial has been economically utilized and the operation is effected in a
short space
very
of time.
I will now describe the best method I am acquainted with for forming the
printing surfaces and their application to printing machines but I do not limit
myself to the precise details.
The different pieces required to form the wearing apparel or the like are first
cut out as patterns in cardboard and the various patterns are then carefully
arrauged or grouped together on a thin sheet of metal of a convenient length and
corresponding in width to that of the material from which the pieces are to be out,
so that the various pieces fit together and leave as few portions as possible
uncovered by the patterns.
The operator next traces round the outlines of the patterns preferably with a
suitable marking wheel on which he presses lightly so as to produce slight
impressions on the sheet of metal which is supported on a table covered with a
sheet of caoutchouc. The patterns are then removed and the impressions traced
over with a second marking wheel which is provided with lateral bearing surfaces
so as to limit the penetration of the wheel into the metai; regular lines in relief
of equal hoight will thus be formed on the opposite or back face of the metal
sheet exactly corresponding to the outlines of the patterns previously arranged on
the said sheet. The metal sheet with its parts in relief constitutes the printing
surface which is to be employed for printing the outline of the patterns on the
material.
Although preferably employ a metal sheet other substances capable of
receiving and retaining impressions may also be used such for example as
cardboard

page_text: Or the lines in relief may be produced by securing narrow strips of caoutchouc
on a sheet of cloth or gelatinized paper of the same dimensions as the metal sheet
already described.
The prepared printing surface is then fixed on a printing cylinder or on a
printing table by any suitable means such for example as hooks and eyes or bands
or cords passing through apertures formed in the ends of the said plate.
When the printing surface is secured round a cylinder, there are provided
tangentially to the said cylinder a roller over which passes the material to be
printed and an inking roller which supplies ink to the parts in relief on the
cylinder. The roller drives the printing cylinder by means of an endless chain
and toothed wheels, the diameter of the cylinder being preferably twice that of the
roller so that the latter makes two revolutions for every revolution of the cylinder.
When the cylinder rotates the ink deposited on the parts in relief on the printing
surface held thereon is transferred on to the material which is thus printed with
the outlines of the patterns and receiving a similar impression for each revolution
of the cylinder. After the material has been printed the material may be cut out
according to the patterns delineated thereon by any well-known means."
By the use of this apparatus the work is very rapidly performed and special
workmen for tracing the patterns are not required, the machine being simply and
easily operated for instance by rotating a crank handle attached to the roller axlc.
The cylinder axle is preferably mounted in yielding bearings so as to ensure by
counterweights or any other suitable means contact with the roller; and the
inking cylinder is kept against the printing cylinder in a similar manner.
In another arrangement of printing machine I employ the printing surface as
an endless band or feed cloth surrounding two drums situated in a horizontal plane
the roller for the material to be printed on and the inking cylinder being still
retained. Since the roller and the cylinder adjacent thereto are of the same
diameter the driving may be effected by an ordinary endless chain. A counter-
weight or counterweights may be employed for securing contact between the roller
and the adjacent eylinder and the tension of the printing band or the like may be
obtained by counterweights operating on the second cylinder round which the
endless printing band passes. The inking cylinder is mounted in inclined bearings
so that its weight keeps it in contact with the aforesaid second cylinder.
Or the drums or cylinders over which the endless printing band or the like
passes may be placed vertically one over the other and in this case the ink is
supplied to the lower cylinder adjacent to the roller over which the material to be
printed passes.
In another arrangement the printing surface is mounted on a table along which
passes a carriage supporting a cylinder which may be turned by a crank handle
and round which the material to be printed is rolled as it receives an impression
from the printing surface. The carriage may be moved along over the table by
means of a toothed wheel attached to the cylinder taking into a rack carried on
the table. The axle of the cylinder is mounted in busbes engaging in vertical
guides or channels on the carriage springs being arranged for securing the contact
of the cylinder with the table and allowing for the increasing thickness of the
material as it is rolled onto the said cylinder. This arrangement of spring
bearings also permits the toothed wheel to be freed from the rack, for effecting
the rapid return of the carriage after printing. The inking device may be
mounted on the carriage and the proper supply of ink efficiently obtained by the
weight of the rollers and gravity.
Dated the 7th day of March 1905

page_text: Improvements in Marking Patterns or the like on Cloth or other
Material, and Apparatus for Use therewith.
I, ETIENNE QUENNOY of 21 Boulevard Poissonnière. Paris, in the Republic of
France, Outfitter, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement :-
This invention relates to improvements in marking out or tracing patterns or
the like on cloth or other material and to apparatus for use therewith.
The various pieces of cloth or the like forming articles for example of wearing
apparel have hitherto been marked out by means of patterns which after being cut
nt are arranged on the cloth or fabric, and the outlines are then traced round with
chalk by hand. This method of procedure demands a certain amount of skill on
the part of the workman to keep truly to the outlines and to group or arrange the
patterns so as to obtain as little waste of material as possible and there is a
considerable loss of time.
According to my invention I employ apparatus for effecting this tracing in
place of the manual tracing just described. For this purpose I form printing
surfaces or clichés which reproduce previously arranged patterns of wearing
apparel or the like and 1 mount the said clichés on a printing machine and uso
them as ordinary printing surfaces for transferring or printing on the material the
outlines of the different pieces constituting the apparel. The cloth or the like may
then bo cut out in the ordinary manner with the certainty that all the pieces are
of uniform size, that the material has been economically utilized and the operation
is effected in a very short space of time.
I will now describe with reference to the accompanying drawings the best
method I am acquainted with for forming the printing surfaces or clichés, I will
refer to them as clichés, and their application to printing machines but I do not
limit nyself to the precise details.
Figure 1 shews in plan the patterns arranged on the surface which is to constitute
the cliché.
Figures 2 and 3 shew wheels for tracing and obtaining the outlines in relief on
the printing surface.
Figure 4 shews the cliché completed with patterns impressed thercon in relief.
Figures 5, 6 and 7 shew in longitudinal section, plan and transverse section
respectively an apparatas for printing or impressing with the cliché.
Figure 8, Figures 9 and 10 and Figure 11 shew three modifications of such
apparatus hereinafter more fully described.
Referring first to Figures 1 to 4 facsimiles of the different pieces required to
form the wearing apparel or the like are first ent out as patterns in cardboard and
the various patterns so formed are then carefully arranged or grouped
together on a thin sheet of metal A (Figure 1) of a convenient length and corre-
sponding in width to that of the material from which the pieces are to be cut, so
that the various pieces fit together and leave as few spaces as possible uncovered
by the patterns.
The operator next traces round the outlines of the patterns no preferably
with a suitable marking wheel shewn at B (Figure 2) on which he presses lightly
so as to produce slight impressions a on the sheet of metal A which is supported
on a table T covered with a sheet of caoutchouc T'. The patterns are then
removed and the impressions are preferably traced over with a second marking
wheel C (Figure 3) which is provided with lateral bearing surfaces e c', so as to
limit the penetration of the wheel into the metal regular lines b (Figure 4) in
:

page_text: relief of equal height will thus he formed on the opposite or back face of the
metal sheet, exactly corresponding to the outlines of the patterns previously
arranged on the said sheet. The metal sheet A with its parts in relief & constitutes
the cliché which is to be employed for printing the outlines of the patterns on the
material.
Although I preferably employ a metal sheet, other substances capable of
receiving and retaining impressions may also be used such for example as
cardboard.
Or the lines in relief may be produced by securing narrow strips of caoutchouc,
on a sheet of cloth or gelatinized paper, of the same dimensions as the metal
sheet already described, along the outlines of the patterns suitably arranged on the
Baid sheet.
The cliché when prepared is fixed on a printing drum or cylinder or on a
printing table by any suitable means, such for example as hooks and eyes or bands
or cords pussing through holes d formed in the ends of the said cliché A. Referring
to Figures 5 to 7, the cliché A is secured round the drun or cylinder D while
taugentially to the said cylinder D is a cylinder E over which passes the material
to be printed and ioking rollers which supply ink from the ink holder to the
parts in relief on the cliché A on the cylinder. The cylinder E drives the
cylinder D by means of a strap and toothed pinion and wheel i. j. the diameter
of the cylinder D being preferably twice that of the cylinder E so that the latter
makes two revolutions for every revolution of the former. When the cylinder D
is rotated the ink deposited on the parts in relief on the cliché A hold thereon is
transferred onto the material e which is thus printed with the outlines on the cliché
and receives a similar impression for each revolution of the cylinder. After the
material has been printed or impressed it may be cut out according to the outlines
delineated thereon by any well known means.
By the use of this apparatus the work is very rapidly performed and special
workmen for tracing the patterns are not required, the machine being simply and
easily operated for instance by rotating the cranked handle m attached to the axis
of the cylinder E.
The axes of the cylinder D are preferably mounted in yielding bearings so as to
secure, by counterweights & for example, contact with the cylinder E, the lower
inking roller is kept against the printing cylinder by counterweights k² in a
similar manner. Figure illustrates another arrangement of printing apparatus in
which the cliché A is formed as an endless band or feed cloth surrounding two
druins or cylinders D and D' the cylinder E round which the material to be
printed passes and the inking rollers being still retained. Since the cylinder E
and the drum D are of the same diameter, motion is transmitted from the one to
the other by a strap or endless chain . Counterweights are employed for
securing contact between the cylinder E and the adjacent drum D and the tension
of the cliché is obtained by counterweights operating on the second drum D'.
The inking rollers are mounted in inclined bearings so that their weight keeps the
lower one in contact with the aforesaid drum D'.
Figures 9 and 10 shew in vertical section and end view respectively a
modification of the arrangement shewn in Figure 8 in which the drums or
cylinders DD are placed vertically one over the other and in this case the ink is
supplied to the lower dium D adjacent to the cylinder E over which the material
to be printed, passes.
In the modification shewn in longitudinal section in Figure 11 the cliché A is
mounted on a fixed table F over which passes a carriage G carrying a cylinder H
rotated by a crank handle mand round which the material e to be printed is rolled
as it recoires an impression from the cliché A. The carriage G is moved along
over the table F by means of a toothed wheel secured round the cylinder H
taking into a rack n carried on the said table F. The axis of the cylinder H is
mounted in bushes engaging in vertical guides or channels on the carriage G,
springs n being employed for securing the contact of the cylinder with the table

page_text: and allowing for the increasing thickness of the material as it is rolled onto the
said cylinder. This arrangement of spring bearings also permits the toothed
wheel to be readily disengaged from the rack, for effecting the quick return of the
carriage after printing. The inking rollers and ink holder g are mounted on the
carriage and the proper supply of ink efficiently obtained by the weight of
the rollers and gravity.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my inven-.
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. Arranging on a sheet or plate of metal, fabric or other material, patterns or
designs for garments or parts of garments or for analogous purposes and marking
in relief on the said sheet or plate the outlines of the said patterns or the like so ag
to form a printing surface or cliché for use in apparatus for printing or impressing
fabrics or other materials substantially as heroinbefore described.
2. Producing printing surfaces or clichés of the kind hereinbefore described and
claimed from thin metal plates or other like materials by tracing round or marking
the outlines of the patterns or designs which have been suitably arranged thereon
by means of a marking wheel with or without a second marking wheel provided
with lateral bearing surfaces for working in the impressions on the plate or the like
which is supported on an elastic body so as to produce regular lines in relief on the
opposite face thereof for subsequent use in printing on fabrics or other materials
substantially as bereinbefore described.
3. The various arrangements of printing apparatus illustrated in Figures 5 to 11
of the accompanying drawings in which a cliché of the kind above claimed is
arranged round either one cylinder or drum or two cylinders or drums or over a
table respectively in combination with a cylinder over which the fabric or other
material to be impressed or printed is passed and an inking device for supplying
ink to the raised surfaces of the cliché all substantially as and for the purposes
hereinbefore described.
Dated this 17th dor of October 1895
JOHNSONS & WILLCOX,
47 Lincoln's Inn Fields, London, W.C., Agents for the Applicant.