A Glove Sewing Machine, or Machine for the Simultaneous Production of Two or More Ornamental Seams on Gloves and analogous objects.
Year: 1892

page_text: Date of Application, 19th Nov., 1892-Accepted, 12th Aug., 1893
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
A Glove Sewing Machine, or Machine for the Simultaneous
Production of Two or More Ornamental Seams on Gloves
and analogous objects.
1, FRIEDRICH BERNHARD KÖHLER, Manufacturer, of 41, Zwickauerstrasse,
Chemnitz, in the Kingdom of Saxony, do hereby declare the nature of this
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
In the following description reference will be made to the accompanying drawings,
of which
Fig. 1 is a side view, Fig. 2 a front view and Fig. 3 an underside view of a
machine embodying this invention, Fig. 4 is an underside view showing the dis-
engaging mechanism, as well as the parts to be disconnected.
Fig. 5 is a plan showing the parts of the disengaging lever, which extend upward
through the bed plate P of the machine.
Fig. 6 illustrates the disconnected position, when the sewing devices are at rest.
Fig. 7 is a front view of the disengaging mechanism, the bed plate of the machine
being in vertical section.
Fig. 8 is a vertical section of the work-holder, with the glove laid flat (the dotted
lines showing the material of the glove), while Fig. 9 shows the same, with the
glove pressed into folds.
Fig. 10 is a plan of the glove-holding apparatus in the sewing position.
Fig. 11 shows the apparatus with the upper part B turned back. Figs. 12 and 13
are details of the same.
The machine has for its object, to form three parallel seams on a glove placed in
the machine, in such a manner, that, when the glove is unfolded, these seams will
form diverging lines on the said glove, the attendant having thus nothing more to
do, than to fasten the glove in the machine and to place the apparatus with its
racks upon the transport wheels of the machine, or to couple an additional
apparatus with that which is already in the machine. For this purpose, and in
order to work as quickly as possible, the machine is constructed and adapted to
operate as follows:
1. When the sewing devices are at rest, the glove bolders are guided through
the machine much more rapidly, than when the machine is working.
2. Before the gloveholder reaches that part, where the stitching should
commence, the quick motion is automatically stopped, and the step by step motion
commences, after a knife, which had cut the threads at the end of the previous
stitching operation (that is on the completion of the previous seams) has been
automatically drawn back, the sewing devices are set in motion, and during the
first stitches the ends of the threads are firmly held by clamps.
3. The tension of the threads is released, and the sewing devices are thrown out
of gear, automatically.
4. After a sufficient length of thread has been drawn through the needle eyes,
and the ends have been clamped by springs, a knife cuts off all the threads, and
the quick motion gear for the transport of the glove holders is again set in
motion.
5. The glove holding appliances may be adjusted according to the length and
the required divergence of the seams.
6. The glove holding appliances are arranged in such a manner, as to auto-
matically start or stop the motious of the machine mentioned under paragraphs 1
to 4, that is to say, so as to give the necessary impulse thereto. The machine
fi

page_text: represented in the drawings is, for the sake of simplicity, a chain-stitch machine
with three needles n (Figs. 1 and 2) producing in common with the three hooks or
loopers the parallel ornamental stitches. Machines producing other kinds of
stitching may, however, be used, instead of that shown as an example. The needles
are fixed to a common needle bar N, which is moved up and down by an excentric
mounted on the main shaft w¹. The hooks fare fixed to the horizontal shaft w³,
which receives an oscillating motion from the came with the aid of a lever e
engaging therein, and a to-and-fro motion from the drum e, by means of the
roller e engaging therewith.
The apparatus shown by Figs. 8 to 13, in which the glove is fixed in the manner
hereinafter set forth, is moved along the bed plate P of the machine by means of
the toothed wheels b', Fig. 1, mounted on the shaft to, said wheels gearing with
the racks of the said apparatus, which is guided by the rollers d d¹ and the
grooves or tracks P1 P2. The motion of the apparatus, when sewing, is a step by
step or intermittent motion, and during the intervening pauses, a quicker but
uniform motion. The intermittent motion is produced, as in other sewing machines,
by means of a ratchet wheel c set in motion with the aid of an ordinary lever
mechanism, by an excentric et connected with the string pulley 5. The sleeve w₁₂ *
mounted loosely on the shaft c³, and the ratchet wheel connected therewith, are
moved by the shaft c¹ and the bevil wheels ; the wheel propels (with the aid
of the spring pawl b₁, bearing against its periphery and fixed to the wheel b¹), the
said wheel, as well as the shaft w³ and the wheel 2. Meanwhile, the coupling
sleeve mounted on the shaft w has become disconnected from the coupling
sleeve k' mounted on the shaft w' (Fig. 4), and as soon as the stitching is concluded,
the main shaft to' is disconnected, so that the sewing devices are thrown out of
gear, while the clutch sleeve is thrown in gear, the shaft wo participating now of
the quick and uniform motion of the shaft w and imparting, by means of the
wheel, motion to the wheel 62, shaft w and wheel 61, so that the ratchet pawl b
moves now over the teeth of the ratchet wheel, (Fig. 1). The main shaft w
(Fig. 4) is thrown out of gear, as soon as the projection p of the lever P", fulcrumed
at y, is brought within the reach of the lever i fulcrumed at i, and set oscillating
by the grooved drum e; for in that case, the drum e, which is set in motion by
the projection n' of the cord pulley & bearing against the pin m², is caused to recede
by the pressure of the roller of the lever acting in the slant groove of the drum,
until the pin m² has fully entered the recess in the follower m³, and is thus out of
the way of the projection n', Fig. 6. The disengagement is effected by the lever q
fulcrumed at v, with the aid of the arm q² engaging in the circular groove of the
sleeve, Fig. 7. The knife m, screwed to the sliding piece m', is pressed back by
the lever o fulcrumed at n, as soon as the pin or projection of of the same has been
pushed against the lever fulcrumed at x and connected with the sliding piece m¹,
whereupon the lever y bears with its pin q against the surface of the lever / and
stops the same, until the cutting operation is renewed. All the above mentioned
motions are started or stopped at the right moment, during the travel of the holding
apparatus. When the laiter moves through the machine in the direction of the
arrow, as shown in Fig. 10, the plate fixed on the right hand side strikes first
with its oblique side the pin o¹ of the lever o and moves the latter from the position
shown in Fig. 3 into that shown in Fig. 4, so that the same withdraws the knife m
with the aid of the lever l. The said plate now strikes against the upwardly
extending plate g₁ of the lever g (Figs. 10 and 5) and drives the same and with it
the coupling sideways, until the shaft w (Fig. 4) stops and the pin comes to
bear upon the surface 2 of the lever /. When this has taken place, the apparatus
has again assumed its step by step motion, and as soon as the plate p* pushes the
pin p to one side and moves the lever p connected thereto from the position shown
in Fig. 3 into that shown in Fig. 4, the projection p² releases the lever i, the
spring pushes the drum e against the cord pulleys, the pin m³ comes within the
reach of the projection n' of the said pulleys, and the shaft w' is now set in

page_text: rotation by the latter, the sewing devices (needles and hooks) entering into
operation, which lasts until the plate p*, which is adjustable on the plate pt
according to the length of the seam, bas passed p', at which moment the springs ""
draw the lever p back, and the lever i is again acted upon by the projection p³, and
the shaft w¹ is thrown out of gear. When this occurs, the plate p leaves the
plate q' and releases the lever, so that the spring, Fig. 4, draws the coupling
sleeve against k', and the rapid transport of the holding apparatus or carriage
commences, and as the lever I has lost its support 9³, the knife m¹ is drawn by the
spring against the threads, so as to cut the same (Fig. 3).
Before the lever is
released, the projection n* (Figs. 10 and 13) passes under the vertical bar t' (Fig. 1)
and raises the same; so that all the tension devices are relieved, thus preventing
the needles from being bent by the threads during the further advance of the
apparatus. If now a similar apparatus is hooked in by its pins ss, (which enter
corresponding holes), it will start and stop in a similar manner the various operations
of the machine.
The holding apparatus or carriage is connected, as shown in Fig. 8 to 12 and
hereafter described. Of the two plates A and B connected together by the hinge C,
the lowermost has parallel slots D, while the upper plate has a trapezoidal opening,
in the centre of which is rivetted a slotted bar E (Fig. 11). There are, moreover,
two slotted levers H H fulcrumed at G, separated by the springs F (Fig. 11) and
provided on their under surface with fine file cuts, and a stopping device secured
thereto and consisting of the flap K and of the pins J J. The flap L fixed to the
lower plate is used to cover the projecting part of the fixed glove, so that it cannot
be caught by parts of the machine.
The thread clamping device mentioned above consists of a rail g, fixed to a
spring arm g, which is pivoted at d, Fig. 1, and moveable in a vertical plane, the
said rail being laid across the ends of the three threads, so as to act upon the same
as a brake or temporary stop.
The glove is fixed in the machine in the following manner;-After the glove to
be sewn or ornamented has been laid on the lower plate A in the open holding
apparatus or carriage, Fig. 11, in such a manner, that the place for the middle
seam is covered by the central part of the slots D, the plate B is folded down, and
while pressing the plate B with one hand, the levers H whose projections H' extend
upwards through B and which bore against the pieces M, are pressed together with
the other hand, until they are stopped by the pins J of the flap K, Fig. 12. As
the material of the glove is compelled by the roughened surface of the lever H to
participate in the motion of this lever, and the smooth surface of the plate A does
not present any hindrance, the same will be laid in folds at the top (Fig. 9). The
flap L is now closed, and the carriage is ready to be introduced into the machine.
The seams made parallel will now have the required convergence, when the glove
is opened or unfolded.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is ;-
A sewing machine for the simultaneous production of two or more ornamental
seams on gloves and analogous objects, which embodies and is adapted to produce
the following features; substantially as described.
a. The holding apparatus or feed mechanism. on which the glove is mounted,
performs an intermittent motion, during the operation of sewing, and a more rapid
continuous motion, while the sewing organs are at rest.
b. Before the glove reaches the spot, where the seams are intended to commence,
the quick feed motion is converted into the intermittent motion, and after the with-
drawal of a knife which had cut off the ends of the previously made seams, the
sewing organs commence to act, which feature may, or may not, be combined with
an arrangement for clamping the ends of the threads during the first stitches.

page_text: c. The functions of the machine specified under a, and b, are started or stopped
directly or indirectly by the feed mechanism or holder itself, and on the completion
of the seams the tension devices are released.
1000
B. KÖHLER,
By Fairfax & Wetter,
433, Strand, London, Agents.