IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ELASTIC GUSSET WEB:
Year: 1866

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to James Cole, junior, of 6, Brookville Terrace,
Coventry, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF
ELASTIC GUSSET WEB:"
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said James Cole at the Office
of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 15th March
1866.
I, JAMES COLE, junior, of 6, Brookville Terrace, Coventry, do hereby declare
the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF
ELASTIC GUSSET WEBS," to be as follows:-
This Invention has for its object improvements in the manufacture of
elastic gusset webs. Heretofore in the manufacture of elastic gusset webs it
has been usual to arrange the inelastic warps and the india-rubber or elastic
warps in a loom in such manner that the india-rubber or elastic warp remain
stationary, or act as dead warps, whilst the inelastic warps, whether of silk or
other material are actuated by the harness of the loom, and are wefted so
that each india-rubber or elastic warp is covered by the fabric produced by
the inelastic warps and the weft or wefts thrown in by one or more shuttles
above and below the india-rubber or elastic warps, and in fact each elastic or
india-rubber warp becomes enclosed in a tubular or hollow passage in the
fabric. Now according to my Invention the india-rubber or elastic warps are
arranged as heretofore to be worked into the fabric as dead or stationary warp
.…

page_text: for a time, but at those parts where the woven webs are divided into gusset
pieces, and where the sewing takes place when affixing the gusset pieces into
boots, shoes, or other articles, the india-rubber or elastic warps in place of
continuing to act as dead or stationary warps are by the harness of the loom
caused to form parts of the sheds opened for the passage of the shuttle or
shuttles, and are thus tied or woven into and form parts of the woven fabric,
in place of being simply shut in or covered by the fabric produced by the
interweaving of the inelastic warps and the weft or wefts. By the employ-
ment of jacquard or other apparatus used in pattern or figure, weaving the
parts of an elastic web or fabric where the elastic or india-rubber warps as
well as the inelastic warps are caused to interweare with the weft or wefts
may be formed in lines diagonally across the elastic web, or in curved or other
lines across the elastic web, and in such parts of the fabrics the ends of the
elastic or india-rubber warps will be held securely, and will not be liable to
slip as heretofore.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said James Cole in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 15th
September 1866.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JAMES
COLE, junior, of 6, Brookville Terrace, Coventry, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Iler Letters
Patent, bearing date the Fifteenth day of March. in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-six, in the twenty-ninth year of Her
reign. did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me.
the said James Cole, Her special licence that 1, the said James Cole,
my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said
James Cole, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any
time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times there-
after during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make.
use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and
Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ELASTIC GUSSET WEBS," upon the condition
(amongst others) that I, the said James Cole, my executors or administrators,
by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and
seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Inven-
tion, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same

page_text: to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next
and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I. the said James Cole. do hereby declare
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement thereof, that is to say:-
This Invention has for its object improvements in the manufacture of
clastic gusset webs. Ieretofore in the manufacture of elastic gusset webs it
has been usual to arrange the inelastic warps and the india-rubber or elastic
warps in a loom in such manner that the india-rubber or elastic warps remain
stationary, or act as dead warps, whilst the inelastic warps whether of silk or
other material are actuated by the harness of the loom and are wefted so that
each india-rubber or clastic warp is covered by the fabric produced by the
inelastic warps and the weft or wefts thrown in by one or more shuttles above
and below the india-rubber or elastic warps, and in fact each elastic or india-
rubber warp becomes enclosed in a tubular or hollow passage in the fabric.
Now according to my Invention the india-rubber or elastic warps are
arranged as heretofore to be worked into the fabric as dead or stationary
warp for a time, but at those parts where the woven webs are divided into
gusset pieces, and where the sewing takes place when aflixing the gusset
pieces into boots, shoes, or other articles, the india-rubber or clastic warps in
place of continuing to act as dead or stationary warps are by the harness of
the loom caused to form parts of the sheds open for the passage of the
shuttle or shuttles, and are thus tied or woven into and form parts of the
woven fabrics, in place of being simply shut in or covered by the fabric
produced by the interweaving of the inelastic warps and the weft or wefts.
By the employment of jacquard or other apparatus used in pattern or figure
weaving the parts of an elastic web or fabric where the elastic or india-rubber
warps as well as the inelastic warps are caused to interweave with the weft or
wefts may be formed in lines diagonally across the elastic web, or in curved or
other lines across the elastic web, and in such parts of the fabrics the ends of
the clastic or india-rubber warps will be held securely, and will not be liable
to slip as heretofore.
The following is the manner in which I prefer to proceed:-The loom
which I employ in such as is commonly used for weaving clastic gusset webs,
and the harness is arranged and worked in the usual manner. A jacquard
machine is added to the loom, and each of the india-rubber warp threads is
passed through an eye of the jacquard harness. The jacquard cards are so
cut that each india-rubber warp thread for a time works in the usual manner

page_text: as a dead warp, or so as to become enclosed in a tubular passage in the fabric
produced by the weft threads weaving with the non-elastic warp threads, and
when it has worked in this way for a sufficient time the jacquard machine
causes the india-rubber warp thread to become active and interweave itself
with the weft. In this way what may be called a pattern is produced on the
sheet of fabric which is being woven, the pattern consisting of patches or
broad bands and lines, either straight or otherwise, dividing the patches or
bands the one from the other. Each patch or band is made the proper shape
and size for a gusset, and is woven like ordinary elastic gusset fabric, the
india-rubber warp being dead. Each division line is made of a width suitable
for two selvages, say, three-quarters of an inch, and in it the jacquard causes
the india-rubber warp to interweave itself with the weft in such manner that
if the inelastic warps were removed there would still remain in these lines a
complete tabby fabric produced by the weft passing alternately over and under
the india-rubber warp threads in each traverse from side to side of the fabric.
It is not essential that the india-rubber warp thread should interweave with
the weft threads precisely in the manner described; but 1 prefer it, because
I believe that the india-rubber warps are in this way most securely fixed or
tied into the fabric, which is the object it is desired to attain. As usually, the
form of gussets is such that the division or selvage lines will traverse the fabric
diagonally, or in an inclined direction; some of the india-rubber warps will be
working to produce gusset fabric, whilst others are producing selvage fabric,
and to admit of this I employ jacquard harness, but if in any case the division
or selvage lines are required only to run from side to side of the fabric at right
angles to the warp, it is evident that a simpler harness may be employed.
In witness whereof, I, the said James Cole, have hereunto set my hand
and seal, this Fourteenth day of September, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-six.
JAMES COLE. (L.S.)