IMPROVEMENTS IN APPARATUS FOR CUTTING THE THREADS OF TULLE, LACE, VALANCIENNES, EMBROIDERY, AND TARLATANS, AND SIMILAR MATERIALS.”
Year: 1879

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Octave Léon Deschamps, of St. Pierre-les-Calais, in the
85
Department of Pas-de-Calais, in the Republic of France, for the Invention of
'IMPROVEMENTS IN APPARATUS FOR CUTTING THE THREADS OF TULLE, LACE,
VALANCIENNES, EMBROIDERY, AND TARLATANS, AND SIMILAR MATERIALS.”
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Octave Léon Deschamps at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 14th March 1879.
OCTAVE LÉON DESCHAMPS, of St. Pierre-les-Calais, in the Department of Pas-
de-Calais, in the Republic of France. "IMPROVEMENTS IN APPARATUS FOR CUTTING
THE THREADS OF TULLE, LACE, VALÀNCIENNES, EMBROIDERY, AND TARLATANS, AND
SIMILAR MATERIALS."
The apparatus forming the subject of the present Invention is a machine
intended to obviate cutting the separating threads of tulle, lace, valanciennes,,
embroidery, and similar articles by hand, with the advantage of an increase of
3 to 4 times the amount of work done with less labour, and a more careful
performance of the operation, which may be performed by a combined manual and
mechanical action, or by a wholly mechanical one.
The accompanying Drawings represent an apparatus worked by hand; Fig. 1
shows the machine in elevation and front view; Fig. 2 is a transverse section full
size, showing the principal parts next the cutting tool; a is a cast iron bed which is
bolted to a wooden bench or table, or is mounted on feet; b is the table of the
machine; c, c, are props or supports uniting the cast iron plates a and b by bolts;
d, d, are two supports which receive above, in bearings a horizontal shaft e with
conical or tapering pulley f; a¹ are two blocks cast in iron with the bed a of the
machine; g is a cam turning with its axis in the blocks a'; g' is a pulley fixed on
the axis of the cam; h is another pulley which receives the motive power by
another pulley placed by its side and on its axis; h' is an endless screw fixed on
the axis of the pulley h; i is a helicoidal wheel governed by the endless screw h¹;
j is a tapering pulley fixed to the wheel i, and which by a crossed strap or band;
governs the conical pulley f. In the same way the pulley h governs (by a crossed"
band) the pulley g' of the cam g; K are guides fixed to the supports d, and guiding
I Drine 27

page_text: two cylindrical shafts 1, 1, which are fixed to the same piece l', which in its turn
is articulated to the horizontal rack n; o is a fixed axis parallel with the rack n,
but in front thereof; o¹, support to the handle m, which support is fixed on the
axis o; m is the handle that the workman takes in the right hand to make it
partly turn first in one direction and then in the other, which alternate motion
Whence it
is transmitted by a pinion (fixed to the handle) to the rack n.
results that this rack is at the will of the workman, animated with a backward
and forward motion more or less in extent, which is communicated to the shafts l, l,
these shafts are supplied with guides in which a vertical shaft p slides, and which
latter is articulated to the shaft q to which is communicated successive up and
down motions from the oscillating lever q¹, constantly pressed against the cam g
by the spring q; p', screw threaded part of the shaft p slightly conical and cast;
is a cylinder locked in the part 1; 8, cylindrical shaft turning freely in the
cylinder and belonging to the base T of the cutting tool; t is the blade support
fixed to the base T; t is the cutting blade, tool, or knife; U, drawing roller
covered with india rubber and fixed on the axis e; V, drawing roller placed above
the former; V, two cylindrical shafts rivited to the cap VI; x, cast iron arm;
x', two hollow screw threaded bolts fixed by screws in the arm x; V³, two nuts
screwed on x¹ and more or less compressing the spiral springs surrounding the
shafts V2, for pressing the material as required as much at one end as at the other
of the roller V; y, front roller supplied or not with india rubber; z, small front
roller supplied with india rubber supported by two spring blades z¹ fixed to the
cap V1; A, band of material whose separating threads are to be cut and is drawn in
the direction of the arrow; B, plate of metal covered with a ground color, so that
the sinuosities of the design of the material may be readily perceived by the eye.
ACTION OF THE APPARATUS.-The motion communicated to the wheel i and the
tapering pulleys j and f effects the drawing motion of the roller u; the workman
holding the handle in the right hand imparts through the rack n and shafts 1, 1,
a horizontal backward and forward movement to the cutting tool t. This tool
mounted eccentrically on the cylinder pivots automatically in obedience to the
resistance of the tissue, and only presents its blade to the thick and thin threads
separating the strips of material; its rounded sides serve to guide it to the left or
right to keep apart the border or selvage, and always admits of cutting the
separating threads in the centre of the separation.
The manual functions of the apparatus are suppressed by imparting an alternate
backward and forward motion to the piece l', and its shafts 1, 1, by means of a cam
set in motion either by a combination of differential tapering pulleys and pinions
with an endless chain, or any other combination admitting of the regulation of the
cam's rotation, and the drawing of the tissue.
The cam which acts directly on a roller of the piece is formed so as to impart
to the piece a backward and forward motion of ample variation, so as to conform
this movement to the varying depths of the design.
The differential tapering pulleys allow in their turn of varying the speed of the
drawing rollers.
The Invention therefor consists in effecting the cutting of the separating threads
of tulle, lace, embroidery, tarlatans, and all analogous articles by means of a knife
or cutting tool simultaneously gifted with a double backward and forward
movement, one of which is vertical by aid of the cam, the other horizontal by aid
of the hand, or a mechanical combination in conjunction with an automatical
pivoting motion.
.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said Octave Léon Deschamps in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 6th
September 1879.
OCTAVE LÉON DESCHAMPS, of St. Pierre-les-Calais, in the Department of Pas
de Calais, in the Republic of France. "IMPROVEMENTS IN APPARATUS FOR CUTTING
THE THREADS OF TULLE, LACE, VALENCIENNES, EMBROIDERY, AND TARLATANS, AND
SIMILAR MATERIALS."
The apparatus forming the subject of the present Invention is a substitute for the
hand cutting of tulle, lace, valenciennes, and all articles of a similar nature with the
advantage of an increase of 3 to 4 times the amount of work done, with less labour
and a more careful performance of the operation, which may be effected by a com-
bined manual and mechanical action, or by a wholly mechanical one.
In either case the cutting is produced by a blade simultaneously animated by a
double or backward and forward motion, in a vertical or horizontal sense, and with
an automatic movement. The vertical motion presents the blade lengthwise to the
separating threads so as to cut them, and the horizontal movement guides the blade
conformably with the sinuosities of the design, whilst simultaneously with these two
movements the blade turns on itself so as only to present itself to the threads to be
cut, and it is the horizontal backward and forward movement that may be produced
by hand or mechanically. The manual action is more suited to cutting irregular
designs, but the mechanical motion for regular designs greatly increases the quantity
produced, whilst at the same time diminishing supervision, and the greater or less
experience of the operator. My system of blade is particularly remarkable by its
being mounted eccentrically on the blade carrier, on which it depends solely to
impart to it its two movements of backwards and forwards, and at the same time
admitting of its automatic displacement round its point of connection, so as to be
subservient to the resistance of the tissue, and only to present its blade to the
threads to be cut, or thick or fine separating threads, its rounded edges serving to
guide it to the left or right, separate either the embroider threads or the borders,
and always permitting of cutting in the centres of separation.
DESCRIPTION. In the accompanying Drawings, Fig. 1 represents in front elevation
an apparatus for cutting the threads of lace, and so forth, hand working. Fig. 2 is
an end view of the same. Fig. 3, the transverse section, full size, of the working
parts, the blade, the rollers, and such like. Figs. 4, 5, 6, and 7, the blade complete,
and in detail, the natural size. Figs. 8 and 9 show the handle for guiding the
machine, size. Finally, Fig. 10 shows the part that differs in the mechanically
worked machine, and which is added to Figs. 1 and 2. The thread cutting machine,
Figs. 1 to 9, has its frame made of a steel plate a fixed on a table, or rather on
feet, a¹, of suitable shape and dimensions, cross barred or strengthened by the bars a²,
and by a cast iron table b, like the plate a, and connected with the latter by two
supports c, c, between these, and symmetrically in relation with the transverse axial
plane of the frame, is fixed on the bed a, the supports d, d, the bead of which
presents itself under bearings adjusted to the table b. The supports d form pedestals
to the shaft e, at whose end the tapering pulley f is mounted.
The bed a is cast in iron in the middle, with the pedestal or block a³, and at the
right end with the second block a*. In these blocks a³, a, the shaft g¹ turns of a
cam g, which presents itself in the middle of the frame and outside the block a³ ; at
the other end of the axis g¹ the grooved pulley g² is fixed, which receives motion
from a fly wheel h keyed to the driving shaft h¹; the latter is supported by the
foot a¹ of the machine, and by a support bolted to this foot; it bears the fixed
pulley h, the loose pulley h³, and inside the foot it presents a crank to which is
connected the shaft p¹ of the pedal p, so that the machine can be worked mechani-
cally by the pulley h2, and by the foot by the pedal p.. On the axis h¹ is also fixed,

page_text: the pinion i, which by a band or pitch chain communicates the motion to the
toothed wheel of an intermediate shaft j'; a pinion fixed on this shaft gears
with the toothed wheel K, solid with the tapering pulley K¹, both mounted loose on
the axis a¹, cam g². The tapering pulley K' corresponds with the one above it, f,
which it governs by a cord which runs on one or other of the steps according to
the speed required. The supports d, d, receive on their vertical anterior face four
small guides in bronze 4, in which two horizontal shafts 1, 1, slide, connected at their
right ends by the same piece m, to which is articulated the end of a horizontal
rack n whose opposite end is guided in a mortice of a support n³, borne by the
support c. In front, and in a horizontal plane of this rack an axis o is disposed,
morticed throughout its length, to receive and guide the handle support or carrier o¹,
Figs. 8 and 9, supplied with the handle M, and a toothed crown o² gearing with
the rack n. The piece o¹ is special; it comprises in detail a bronze piece o¹ fixed in
the required place on the axis o, which traverses it, and another piece o³ fitted with
gentle friction in the first, and following a plane perpendicular to that of the axis o.
The piece o is cut near the centre vertically from the toothed crown o³, which is
adjusted in a hollow space of the support o¹, and below it bears two screws for
maintaining the handle M, a cylindrical portion of which is fitted and sunk in a
hole in the centre of the piece o³. This mounting of the handle may be simplified
by causing it to adhere to the toothed crown o². By this special arrangement the
regulation of the position of the handle is easily effected along the guide axis o, and
by means of this handle the most varied and ample movements horizontally back-
wards and forwards may be communicated to the shafts 1, 1, by the aid of the rack n.
The axis o is firmly held in its supports, which on one side are a square l² fixed to
The shafts 1, 1,
the support d, and on the other the guide support n¹ of the rack n.
each receive a guide q pierced vertically for the rectilineal sliding of the blade carrier r,
which at its lower end is furnished with a roller running in the hollow eccentric of
the cam g. A shaft s or kind of drawer slides with the blade carrier r, and guides it
in its vertical backward and forward movement. 8', 81, is itself a guide to the drawer
8. The blade carrier r (Figs. 3 and 6) is cylindrical, terminating above by a partly
conical piece, Fig. 3, threaded and open cut for the gradual entry of the locking
nut this screw threaded part is pierced in its axis with a hole for the insertion
of the blade which comprises a base t of oval section on which is fixed above the
blade carrier t¹ or kind of spindle of long slender shape with the point much
rounded, and below a small axis t2 fitted with greasy friction in a long muffle or
cylinder t³ retained on the axis t2 by the screw t. In the spindle t¹ a longitudinal
groove is made for the reception of the blade t5, Fig. 7. The blade t is placed on
the shaft r, and the muffle t is adjusted and locked in the vertical aperture of the
screw threaded part, hence the blade participates in the movements of the shaft r,
and is allowed free play in turning and pivoting round the muffle ts. It is this
excentric movement combined with the free setting on the tool carrier which
compels the blade to always present its cutting edge to the separating threads,
coarse or fine, whilst the rounded edges of the spindle t¹ guide the knife edge to
prevent its cutting the embroider threads or the borders to the right and left. The
tulle to be cut is presented and led by rollers, one of which, the principal one u,
mounted and fixed on the shaft e is cased in india rubber, and a second roller vis
mounted above it; this latter is borne on points in a frame v¹ maintained in position
by two spindles 2 which traverse the hole made in the pins v³ (Fig. 3) screwed into
the end of a cast iron arm x which is fixed at the requisite height on the piece al bolted
to the table b. The holes of the pins are pierced with sufficient room for the inser-
tion of spiral springs round the spindles v2 which are more or less compressed by means
of the nuts screwed on the pins v³. By this means the regulation of the delivery of
the band of material is effected, and may be made more or less energetic on one or
other of its edges, according to the thickness of the design. In front of these two
rollers and v are two others, one y in wood covered with india rubber, copper, or
other metal covered with fine points or fine garniture, turning in plumber blocks on
the supports d, d, and the other or upper roller z in metal covered with india rubber

page_text: turning in small blocks of the springs z' fixed firmly to the frame v¹. A sheet of
metal T, tinted, or colored white, black, or other shade agreeing with the white,
black, or other colored ground of the tulle, is fixed in rear of the supports & and
prevents fatiguing the eyes of the operator, and allows him easily to follow the
outline of the design.
ACTION OF THE MACHINE-Having set the machine in motion the bands to be cut
are placed between the rollers u and v after having introduced them between the
first ones y and z by raising the latter (Fig. 3 shows the tulle in dotted lines), then
the workman or operator resting his left arm on the table guides the delivery of the
tissue with his left hand and takes the handle M in his right hand, giving it partial
and successive rotations right and left, and vice versa, according to the thickness of
the design, so that the cutting tool animated by the cam g with a rapid up and
down motion simultaneously displaces itself under the direction of the right hand
in the horizontal backward and forward movements of uniform amplitude, according
as the designs are regular or irregular. The rollers v and y, the same as those u
and z, may also be covered with india rubber, or that only, the roller y may also
be covered with fine garniture or points. The bands of tulle or other material may
be guided by means of any suitable mechanism.
When the designs are regular or uniformly varied the backward and forward move-
ment may be imparted to the shafts 1, 1, by aid of the mechanism represented,
Fig. 10. As regards the cutter, its up and down motion and delivery of the tissues,
no alteration occurs in the construction previously described, and the same letters of
reference indicate like parts. The shaft e prolonged beyond the tapering pulley f
bears the bevil wheel A which communicates motion to the pinion B, the axis of
which bears the cone C. From this cone by aid of the strap E the motion passes
to the parallel cone D. Above this latter the pinion D¹ is fixed on the same axis;
this pinion governs another F' by the intermediary of an endless chain.
pinion F communicates with the axis of a cam F, the bend of which receives
through the springs G the contact of a roller H in connection with the rack H'
of a piece I on which the two shafts l, l, abut which guide and govern the blade
carrier r.
The
The rack H¹ guided in its case H³ is susceptible of rising and falling by turning
the key H³ which actuates it by a pinion. The roller H can then rest on the cam
at variable altitudes and be moved backwards and forwards more or less, thus the
horizontal backward and forward movement can be regulated according to the
thickness of the design.
The cones C and D admit of increasing or decreasing the speed of the cam F,
that is to say, render the horizontal backward and forward motion of the blade
proportionate to the delivery of the tissue or (which amounts to the same)
proportions the movements with the spaces of the design.
The strap E may for this purpose rise and fall by turning the fly J whose long
threaded shaft governs a forked nut embracing the strap. Fig. 10 shows an
example of working the apparatus mechanically and admits of cutting regular
designs on lace, tulle, embroidery, and so forth, without requiring a strict super-
intendence, quite doing away with hand work and doing a vast amount of work.
I claim as my Invention the mechanical combinations herein specified with regard
to the Drawing, and which consist principally-
1st. In effecting the cutting of the threads of tulle, lace, embroidery, tarlatans,
and all similar articles by means of a blade simultaneously gifted with a backward.
and forward movement, one vertical, the other horizontal, besides an automatic
pivoting, as stated and represented in the Figs. 1, 2, 3, and 4.
2d. In communicating to the blade the requisite vertical backward and forward
movements by aid of the cam, Figs. 1 and 2, or by any other more
different.
or less
3rd. In communicating the horizontal backward and forward movement by hand,
as in Figs. 1, 2, 8, and 9, or mechanically, as in Fig. 10, or by arrangements more
or less advantageous in one or the other case.

page_text: I reserve the right of varying the construction of my machines to cause them to
work with the foot or by motive power, and to mount them on feet as in Figs. 1
and 2, either on ordinary tables, or driving them by transmitted motion separately,
as in Figs. 1 and 2, or for actuating all alike.
In witness whereof, I, the said Octave Léon Deschamps, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Thirtieth day of August, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and seventy nine.
0
DESCHAMDS
0.
O. DESCHAMPS. (L.C.)