Improvements in Boots and Shoes, and Lasts and Fastenings for the same.
Year: 1893

page_text: Date of Application, 12th Oct., 1893
Complete Specification Left, 12th July, 1894-Accepted, 12th Oct., 1894
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Boots and Shoes, and Lasts and Fastenings for
the same.
I, the undersigned, DAVID HARRY SHUTTLEWORTH-BROWN of Bellevue Villa,
South Wimbledon, in the County of Surrey, Engineer, do hereby declare the nature
of this invention to be as follows:-
It appears to have been the practice to make boots and shoes with an intention
that they should be much longer than the foot, so as, as well as for other reasons, to
diminish (where the front formed, with the sole, a hollow wedge) the tendency of
the great toe to work towards that position which ought to be occupied by the
middle toe, and produce a bunion at the head of the first metatarsal bone, and crush
the four weaker toes into maims, afflicted with corns, and lose its own power of
imparting ease, grace, vigour and precision to the gait.
"
Partly on account of ignorance, both of such intention, and of the consequences
that follow the frustrating of that intention, and partly on account of a natural
desire to reduce such an artificial exaggeration of the apparent length of the foot, it
has been an almost universal habit to wear boots and shoes that have been productive
of this tendency of the great toe, and other evil effects which makers have sought
to avert by extra length, and, sometimes, by extra breadth-so far has this habit
prevailed that the boots and shoes which are now manufactured for "the million
are, for the most part, based upon the deformed and enfeebled foot as their model, as if
it had been settled that it were fruitless to attempt to correct the evil which has
been wrought, and that all that now remains to be done is to fit ugliness, and
aggravate weakness and deformity, and label, with apologetic flattery, "style."
Such disfigurements, however, and their attendant disablements, may be obviated
by the application to boots and shoes of the contrivances hereunder shortly described;
and the power of the foot, to raise and propel the body, in so far as it may be
dependent upon the unwarped action of the first metatarsal, and the phalanges of
the great toe, needs not to be impaired, as has hitherto been the case, by the use of
boots and shoes.
Provision is likewise made for the arch, and for the transverse arch of the foot,
for its ventilation, its elasticity, flexibility and tread.
The simplest form of that part of the invention which has more particularly to do
with keeping the great toe in its natural position, is seen in the tennis-shoe, wherein,
there is attached to the rubber-sole, at the part that would stand under the space
between the great toe and the second toe, a slab of rubber or vulcanite, standing
about " to "high, and an inch to 1" wide-in the case of rubber, which is slightly
affected by the fatty acid emanation, it requires to be covered.
The shoe-last requires to have a slit in it, to admit of the slab; and the slit should
extend to the front end of the "last," so that, when the shoe is made, the "last"
can be withdrawn.
In ordinary shoes, a thin piece of metal, such as nickel, silver-plated, if impure,
aluminium, or tinned iron or mild steel, about 3" long by " wide, is bent so as to
form a 1, and the shaft of the 1 is perforated for stitches, near the crosspiece, the
shaft is then covered with leather and sewn round ;-now, if there be a slit in the
"last," where the division of the great and second toes should be, when the in-sole
is laid on, the shaft of the is pushed through a cut in it, into the slit in the "last”;
the sole is then applied, and, when the shoe is finished, the "last" is withdrawn, as
before.

page_text: Vulcanite, celluloid, xylonite, or any other suitable material may be used for the,
substances that can be cast in moulds, such as gutta-percha, and are strong and
reliable.
The parts constituting the cross-piece of the 1, which are concealed between the
in-sole and the main-sole, should be slit, so as not to lie flat and stiff, between the
soles, but to permit their flexion, and they are better bent at right angles (not
sharply) from an arc, at about 3" radius, and not from a straight line, passing
through the paper, at the point where the shaft meets the cross-piece of the 1.
When mild-steel is used, 18 imperial standard gauge, for men, (19 or 20 for
women and children) may be employed, single, about 1" long and 3" wide-the
larger part of this, about ", of its length, would form the part that passes through
the insole, and stands between the great, and the second toe; and a convenient
form for this part is a circle about " diameter (between the toes) cut by a segment
of a circle " diameter (buried in the cut in the insole); the remaining part has two
slits in it, and forms the cross piece of the 1; two slits naturally form three fingers,
and the middle one of these lies under the great toe, and the other two lie under the
second toe.
It is desirable that the middle finger be about " long, so that it may be borne-
upon by the body of the great toe, and it is necessary that the slits exceed its length
(of ") as the metal will not stand to be bent abruptly into these horizontal fingers,
at the ends of the slits, without snapping, or, at least, serious displacement of its
fibre; the slits thus extend beyond the arc from which the fingers are bent, and
slightly beyond the chord of the segment of a circle that is buried in the insole;
the two outside fingers may be shorter, about 1";-if these are to lie parallel, which
is not important, the fingers will be separated by V slits, the angle of the V being
determinated by the radius of the arc from which the fingers are bent, and the steel,
initially taken, would require to be about 1" wide, towards the points of the outer
fingers, instead of "; the recesses, where the circle is cut by the segment, enable
the leather covering to be secured by the "buckle-stitches" which, in passing round
the circle and segment, enter the recesses, and perforation of the plate with stitch-
holes is not necessary; it is, however, desirable to perforate the circle with 6 or 7
small holes, so that the moisture, if any, absorbed by the leather covering in contact
with the great toc, may pass away, as by pores; and, with a delicate skin, it is
desirable to have a layer of thin cloth between the leather covering (in contact with
the great toe) and the plate.
;
The great too may be kept in a natural position by means of a piece of leather
about two inches wide and two inches long, of such good quality and thickness as is
employed for the front upper; this is folded lengthwise, and is now, 1" wide x
2" long the upper end of the crease is slit for about 3", and the lower end
about " within the fold a bit of hard, stiff leather is inserted, " wide, and, as to
its upper and lower edges, of the same section as the "last" (slit for its insertion),
is 1", about, to 2" from the front; the stiffening is sewn within the fold; the top
slit is opened, the ends spread, at right angles to the fold, and sewn to the front
upper; a toe-cap may cover this stitching; now, the fold is passed through the slit
in the "last," the crease being towards the body of the foot; the insole is applied,
as through a cut, in it, is passed the lower slit end of the fold; the slit is opened,
the ends spread, at right angles to the fold, and sewn to the outer side of the insole;
(the upper ends might have been sewn to the outer side of the front upper, passing
through a slit in it).
It is obvious that these devices require a Japanese stocking, i.e., with a thumb-
stall for the great toe. Much has been said of the advantages of wool, for
stockings, they, however, as much as the shoe, without such devices, deform the
foot, if they have not such a stall.
In forming the "last" there should be plenty of space given for the great toe,
so that it may not, by the inner side of the front upper, be unduly pressed against
the devices above described, and, especially, is room needed over the great toe-
nail, and, particularly, the inner side of it; this calls for remark, because the

page_text: space required is more than would seem to be requisite, and this fact is attributable
to an unseen action which takes place in an ordinary shoe, at every step, an action
which has, probably, neither been observed nor suspected; it is this:-Suppose
the right foot advanced and planted on the ground, when the left foot is raised,
let it pass the right; at this moment the whole weight of the body is on the right,
this weight has depressed the arch; the foot is nearly 3" longer than it was before
it was planted; but the left is still advancing, the right leg is inclining forward,
and the heel is beginning to rise, and the weight is thrown upon the ball of the
foot the body steadied and controlled, the foot aided, or supplemented, by the
great toe which, at this point, as the shoe is bending, and, therefore, shortening,
slips forward (in the shoe) and bends outward, towards the middle of the front of
the shoe, where, alone, it can find the necessary altitude for the great toe nail ;-
this slip-forward requires that the front-upper should give the great toe room to
play and the device prevents it from bending outward-and therefore the room
requires to extend to the point of the nail in its most advanced position-the
bending outward, during the slip-forward at every step, accounts for the opening
of the joint and the formation of the bunion, and for many evils which admit of no
other explanation.
;
Another device, that may not necessitate the use of a thumb-stall in the sock,
which is, however, in all circumstances commendable, is to cut, instead of a slit
through the "last," a narrow pit in the underside of it, extending to the front
end; in the fore part of the pit a loose wedge of wood inserted into the
after part, the insole, well wetted, is rammed, and a wedge of hard leather is
rammed into the narrower pit thus made in the insole, and secured in position-
the sole is applied, the "last" withdrawn, and the loose wooden wedge, left in the
shoe, is removed.
A strip of leather sewn into a loop, like a tailor's thimble, for the great toe,
may be slipped into the slit in the "last"; or a limp and thin material, such as
linen, may be so employed, and secured to the front-upper, in-sole, welt, or sole,
according to the method of making; and, when a stocking with a thumbstall is
not available, the loop will collapse, and be out of use.
The number of bones between the heel and the toes, and the quantity of the
tissues between them, and the elasticity of the tissues, constitute the measure of
the flexibility that is natural to the foot; and the bases on which stand the great
arch, and the arch across the foot (formed by the cuboides and the cuneiform
bones) are consequently moved on the application, or the withdrawal, of the weight
of the body, by flexion of the foot, and use of the muscles; it is therefore evident
that, from the tip of the toe to where the "os calcis" rests on the heel of the
shoe, the shoe should be flexible;-for this reason, for the same, or a similar,
relative weight and strength of shoe, the sole should be made about half as thick
as is now usual, and the waist, about one quarter as thick (for town wear) and, in
order, without unnecessarily diminishing the flexibility, to keep the feet above the
wet, to enable the soles to quickly dry, to protect the feet against pebbles, as
well as to aid with a grip in progression, and tend, even without the above
described devices, to cause the great toe to lie in its natural position-the only
one in which it can properly perform its functions-there may be applied to the
sole, at right angles to the line of progression (not of the axis of the foot) slabs
of leather, rubber, gutta percha, or any other suitable substance (about "wide,
for men's, and 1 centimetre, for women's) with bevelled edges; the ends of that
face which is against the sole may be within the stitches which attach the sole
to the welt, in line with the periphery of the tread, (not necessarily of the sole),
and thus the ends of that face which is against the ground will be within the
tread; the sides, or long edges, of these slabs need not touch each other, but, if
they should, there will be, when the foot is on even ground, triangular spaces
between them; but, having regard to the tendency of that portion of the material
which comes nearest to the ground to flatten out, or spread, the bevelled edges
should take the form of a convex curve, approaching, in character, the lower

page_text: quadrant of a circle; for the purposes of repair these slabs can be stamped with
a "size" and number," so that any one, or more, of them can be replaced with
slabs identical in form; the heel may likewise be fitted with such slabs, not, or
only very slightly bevelled-except round the edge of the heel-but shaped.
When the naked foot is placed upon paper, and a pencil is passed round it, the
pencil should have removed the segment of the cylinder of wood that holds the
lead in the slot, in the other segment; and the lead should be sharpened towards
the side thus exposed ;-the tread, which is conveniently ascertained by Mr. Richard
Nicholls' method, will always be considerably within the mark the pencil makes,
owing to the rotundity of the edge of the foot.
Modern improvers of boots and shoes appear, most of them, to ignore the
comparative inutility of that part of the sole which is between the tread and the
outline, and, consequently, make the boots too large-the soles too wide-too flat,
transversely, also; and the superfluous leather is not bevelled away, and much
unnecessary weight is carried, by wearers, who are not always plodding through
marshes; this applies with greater force to the back of the heels; moreover the
bottoms of lasts, from the tip of the toe to the bed of the "os calcis," are too
flat; the form should be more like that of an , lying prone; and it should,
transversely, approach that of a U-the first of these, the , would give a
greater length of tread for a less length of shoe, besides diminishing the tendency
to wrinkle and crack the upper at each step, when the foot in the rear is about
to advance, and enabling the lace, in front, to support the main arch of the foot;
under this arch from under the cuboides and scaphoides, forward-the insole of
the waist should be bevelled on the side next the foot, then, especially, is the last
mentioned effect of lacing obtained when the waist is very thin. Monsieur
Robert, of Paris, who had worked, at St. Cloud, under the personal instructions
of Napoleon III., devising an army boot, used to make the waist as narrow as
the finger (the 4th or even the 5th) and, in addition, worked the leather till it was
as soft, pliable and porous, almost, as insoling. For similar reasons, the U form,
put transversely for the sole and heel, will give greater capacity in a narrower
boot; it should be borne in mind, also, that the contour of the foot diminishes
when it is raised from the ground, and that all materials, such as leather,
suitable for its covering, give and expand with wear, and that, therefore, and for
the other reasons cited, the contour, when taken with the weight of the body upon
the foot, is apt to be in excess of its needs, in a shoe. The transverse arch,
formed by the cuneiform bones and cuboides, is accommodated, with the insole
bevelled, as described, by the flexibility of the waist.
In measuring, the rule, or table, on which the foot is placed, should have a
slide upon it, with an index standing vertically, so as to be made to touch the
ankle bone, the inner malleolus of the tibia; this slide and index should also
move to, and touch, the head of the 1st metatarsal bone;-and, on the other side
of the rule, or table, there is required a slide with an index, which can be moved
to touch the head of the 5th metatarsal bone, and also made to indicate the exact
position of the projection on the outer side of the base of the same bone. The
object of indicating the position of the ankle bone is to determine the length of
the "os calcis," i.e., whether or no, and to what extent, the foot is "lark-heeled,"
and the reverse--the object of defining the position of the heads of the 1st
and 5th metatarsal bones is to determine the two ends of the crest, or ridge, of
the pitch or bend in the sole of the "last"-this ridge is not a straight line, but,
if the points of the fingers of the left hand be placed upon the sole of the right
"last," the point of the 1st finger corresponding with the head of the 1st meta-
tarsal, the 2nd and 3rd finger points will nearly correspond with the heads of
the 2nd and 3rd metatarsals, the 4th finger-point with the head of the 5th meta-
tarsal; and the 4th metatarsal will come between these last two, and the previous
two points of coincidence ;-the object of determining the position of the
projection at the base of the 5th metatarsal is, that it may be represented on the
"last," and so provided for that, however neat the fit of the boot, it will not suffer

page_text: "
from pressure, since it articulates obliquely, and, almost, longitudinally with the
massive cuboides bone, which again, has a parallel articulation with the great
" os calcis"; this accounts for the extreme sensitiveness of this projection, of a
comparatively weak bone to any degree of constant pressure. The pitch of the
"last" should increase with the height of the heel of the shoe-but, as to "heels,"
boots and shoes should have no "heels "-to attempt to perfect the boot or shoe,
and retain the "heel," is to attempt a compromise between right and wrong, it
will baffle the wit of man till the end of time-the "heel" is an imposture,
"heels
are the pedestals on which we set up the pride and shame of civilisation―
Of what advantage is it to any man to stand on "heels," if every one else does
the same? Henry VIII. may have founded our reputation as a practical
people" when he made broad toes a class-distinction, but if, for example,
Louis XIV. wore high "heels" to increase his stature, it were a grave error in
his courtiers to imitate him-true courtesy would have disregarded them. It
appears to have been useless to enact laws against them, for such laws have been
enacted, and allowed to become obsolete. An order, from the Education Department
to teach the anatomy of the foot in schools would scarcely bear fruit in the first
generation, so far is knowledge set from its application; and any shoe maker who
should presume to make, and prescribe, the use of boots without "heels" would
simply court ruin, for every one will, as it were, walk uphill (say, 1 in 30), with
his toes downwards, shewing a greater length of foot than he needs, on a level
path, which he converts into a species of tidal landing-stage-gangway, such as
those at London Bridge, and elsewhere, traversed by obstacles, at every step, and
all for the illusory advantage of an extra inch of stature; or, is it to raise the
arch of the foot?-if so, imagine the effect of raising one side of an arch, even
though the structure have been designed with inconceivable skill; in respect of the
great, second and third toes, the 4 bearing surfaces, between the "os calcis " and
the metatarsals, are directly, if gradually, thrown out of position, and must
alter in form to continue in contact-the weight is unnaturally projected on to
the toes, the transverse arch is depressed, and the elasticity, that gives grace and
vigour to the gait, is lost.
For the purposes of an army, the last named is an important factor; and if
men must seem imposing, they can do so, more effectively, by wearing plumes and
epaulettes than by wearing stilts; but, the crucial moment of their lives is when
they stand, with fixed bayonet, facing the enemy; then their feet must feel the
ground, and the soles of their shoes should be as like the pad of Nature as art
can make them ;-for a man to be slipshod may mean death-with the flash of
steel, he must advance, on the ball of the foot, and hold the ground with the
great toe, or, for very life, more quickly retire on the beel of the foot; the "heel"
of the shoe would have prevented the advance, by the measure of its height,
nearly, and have diminished the force of the advance, as in ascending an inclined.
plane (of say 1 in 10), and it would have caused him to bend his left knee, more, and
advance further with it, than necessary, with, not only, the further to retire, but
the possibility of a greater loss of equilibrium than he could restore, to save his
life: so much for the left foot-now, as to the right, if the sole were much
wider than the foot, the inner edge of the sole and heel constitute the end of a
short broad lever, by means of which, when the propelling power of his foot is
exerted, the ground twists his shoe round his foot; the higher the "heel" of his
shoe, the longer this lever is, and the heel of his foot, instead of meeting with a
firm resistance, from the heel-block, is pressing against the yielding stiffening
over the right side of the heel, whilst the inside edge of his foot is slipping across
the sole of his shoe-in short, his right foot, instead of being planted firmly on
the ground, is poised on a loose column with no stability-here, too, the ball of the
foot, and great toe play the major part.
Passing, for one moment, to external means for developing the strength of the
foot, by restoring to their normal condition, the bones, and the interosseous tissues,
atrophied by shoe "heels" and averted great toes, for restoring the arch of the

page_text: foot, and even bringing back the marrow to the phalanges of the 4th and 5th toes,
and, with all these, native grace of carriage, there might be constructed an
exercising ring in which men could be marched barefoot, and at the double, for a
short time, daily, by companies; the diameter of the ring being as many feet as
there are men would give them 3 feet apart, in single file; the ring would be a
trough, say 18 inches wide, made of cement, level with the ground, and filled with
puddled clay to the depth of 6 inches, the top of the clay being kept moist by the
addition of a little glycerine to the water; to keep the ring clean, and free from
pebbles, it would require to be, either bordered with asphalte rings, within and
without, or, when not in use, covered with boarding.
That garment, which, since the days of King George, has made every man who
has to stand before the public, wish to hide his legs-trousers-is responsible for
the desire to have the great toe appear as if it grew between the 3rd and 4th,
because a lopsided plinth is inadmissible as the foundation of a cylindrical pillar;
and this appears to have caused, in laced boots and shoes, the slit in the upper to
be made in a wrong direction, whereby the lacing is rendered ineffectual, and the
beauty and significance of the means, by which balance is, in nature, obtained, are
obscured; in nature, balance is obtained by continuous action-the ball of the foot
is as busy as a revolving sphere, it is throwing out five rays, nay six, for the heel is
to it subservient-the ridge of the first metatarsal, to the head of the astragalus, is
obviously the position and direction indicated for the slit in the shoe, and this
enables the lace to draw the waist up to the arch; visual balance takes place when
it should, when both feet are planted—when one, only, is planted, only action,
Nature's form in action, is presented to the eye. How beautiful such a form may
be, even when clothed, is conceivable when one sees a Roman shoe, which was, till
1884, in the Guildhall Museum, was the chief object in a Guild exhibit in "Old
London," and has not, or had not recently, been restored to public view.
The front of a shoe is, naturally, cut from a part of a skin which presents the
finest texture, the rest being relegated to the sides, leading to the back; the
position of the lacing-slit, above given, favours economy, and, therefore, greater
choice in the selection of the skin for the front-for, this more effective lacing
requires that the tension should not traverse, at least, on the inner side of the arch,
the seam that usually passes obliquely from near the head of the 1st metatarsal,
back and down, to the waist, and which, in joining the front to the side, leads a long
point of the front skin under the forepart of the arch, where it is not much seen;
this seam should go down and meet the sole, just behind the inner sesamoid boue,
at the end of the fore part of the waist; thus, the tension of the lace, in drawing
the waist up, is exerted only on the side-skin-the seam is not strained, and the
front skin is economised, whilst the design accords more closely with, and defines,
the natural formation of the foot. A race runner braces up his feet, by tightening
his laces, before he steps on to the path; and it would assist the soldier, if, time
and opportunity serving, he could brace up his feet, before rushing to the attack;
to have the shoe continually tight is debilitating generally, and, especially, to the
interosseous muscular tissues between the metatarsal bones, and long continued
straining of these muscles, while wearing shoes too wide and slack, will deprive
them of their clasticity-their function being to draw the bones, spread by the
imposed weight of the body, vigorously together, to knit the foot for the expenditure
of forces in raising and propelling the body-if, therefore, the shoe permit the
bones to spread too much, and too continuously, as in long, forced marches, the
elasticity of these muscles is impaired; the means of bracing the foot require, then,
to be perfectly simple, convenient and effective, so as to answer, immediately, to the
requirements of the occasion.
As a fastening the lace would seem to be neither so good nor so expeditious as a
modification of the clogger's clasp; the members of the lower one will meet over
the lower part of the 1st metatarsal, and they will be so shaped that they engage
fairly, when the inner one is bent, at right angles, over this bone, and the outer, at
right angles to the mean direction of the other 4 metatarsals, or rather that of

page_text: the 5th, which is the principal of them-the upper clasp, or clasps, will be narrower
than this, and so placed as not to interfere with the articulations of the bones over
which they are placed, and with due regard to their own function of drawing the
waist up to the arch (the lace-eyelets will act in pairs if in the outer row each is in
rear of its fellow in the inner row, and with similar effect)-if clasps be attached to
the shoes by means of rivet heads, moving in a door chain-slot in each member,
they will naturally select their proper directions, and they can easily be replaced,
or lengthened, beyond the range provided in the female member; the lace is,
however, susceptible of the following improvement, videlicet, to be made as a
worsted blind, or picture, cord, except that the core, instead of being hemp, is
rubber, and the coating attached to the core by india rubber solution, an expansšie
or flexible tube of silk, worsted or mohair; and that the tension may be equalised,
it is necessary that the tongue should be of thick leather, or any other suitable
flexible substance, deeply embossed, or scored, with V's or 's (according to the
method of lacing) reaching from eyelet to eyelet; the underside of the "tops
should likewise be backed with similar material, along prach row of eyelets, embossed,
or scored, so as to meet, and thus complete, the chainels in the tongue for the free
movement of the lace, which, hitherto, has been 'neld by friction of such resistance
that the lower eyelets can hardly be drawn: towards each other without breaking
the lace; this device may be made to cover the defect of a depressed instep-it can
be exaggerated so as to prevent the back of the trouser from forming a yawning
flue in rear of a man's heel, and depriving him of more dignity than even a high
hat can restore; if the edges of the device be properly bevilled, it will relieve a
sensible, and therefore unwholesome, pressure on the instep.
و"
In walking, the body acquires a momentum, equal to its velocity × its weight,
moving in the direction of the line of progression, the body, then represented in
plan, like the cross piece of a 1 square, and the centre line of the shaft is the
line of progression, which ought to be cut by the great toe of the advancing foot ;
how the momentum, acquired, is sustained and accelerated, in this direction, by a
turned out foot with an averted great toe, can only be through the expenditure of
power wasted in equilibrating the body, and by restraining the action of the outer
portion, or ball, of the foot, which, if it exerted its natural force, would, on account
of its being turned away from the line of progression, throw the body more across
the line-more out of balance; this natural force too, in its effect on progression,
whatever measure of it is put in action, is diminished in a twofold degree :-First,
as the cosine of the angle of divergence is less than the radius, or length of the
foot, in a right line forward; and, 2nd, as the great toe is enfeebled by further
aversion; geometrically, this is a visible, measurable quantity, as in the foot;
physiologically, the averted toe is nearly useless; mechanically, worse than
us s
"
Moreover, when the force of propulsion is exerted by the turned out foot, and
als when the weight of the body falls upon the turned out foot in advance, it is
obious that, both cases, the arch is strained on its longer, and weaker, side, on
its side, only, i.e., from the posterior extremity of the "os-calcis" to the
sesamoid bones, under the head of the 1st metatarsal; and if men who allow their
toes to diverge from the line of progression, as they walk, are not "flat-footed," it
is in spite of their own efforts to make themselves so; and, certainly, the arch of
every such man's foot must be lower than it would otherwise be; and his case is
aggravated, twice in every pace, by the wearing of "heels ; whereas, if, as in
nature, the great toe cut the line of progression, the jar to the system (great in
heavy marching order) and, especially, to the structure of the foot itself, would be
diminished, nay, nil; for Nature has supplied a mass of tissue under the outer edge
of the foot, from the extremity of the "os calcis" to the head of the 5th meta-
tarsal; and, moreover, the outer edge of this massive bone, the "os calcis," is much
nearer the ground than is the inner edge-and its anterior surface projects over a
portion of the rear surface of the cuboid, also a massive bone-and the cuboid's
anterior surface projects over the inner rear surface of the 5th metatarsal, which is

page_text: more massive than the 2nd 3rd or 4th, and nearer the ground-all which facts
indicate, clearly, that the fall of the foot should be a gradual approach to the
ground of the outer edge of the foot, from the heel to the head of 5th metatarsal-
that the pressure should, then, gradually traverse the heads of the 4th 3rd and 2nd
(balanced by their toes, the while) to the head of the 1st metatarsal (and the
inturned great toe, of the foot in rear, should begin to act in an opposite sense to
the ball, central, or great ball and 5th metatarsal, i.e., in the same sense as the
5th metatarsal and ball of the foot in advance)-by this gradual process does
Nature bring the weight from the heel to the sesamoid bones-starting from, and
ending with, the great toe crossing the line of progression-all which is a perfectly
Continuous and direct action, whereby, with the foot pointed in front, momentum is
not arrested, and perfect balance is maintained, and such a movement cannot be
effected, even by means of manoeuvring, with a foot turned outwards; and, again,
the minor toes of the direct-line-foot assist in propulsion, while those of the averted
foot cannot; hence their atrophy: the body of the ball of the foot, say of the right
foot, propelling, is, naturally, to the right of the line of progression; how perfectly
beautiful and mechanical, as a means of maintaining balance, it is, that the shock
of the propulsion, imparted, shall be, when nearly spent, sustained by the gradual
approach of the rounded, or winding, elongated, outer, fleshy surface of, say the
left foot, and its ball, meeting the ground on the left of the line of progression,
while the great toe of each foot is acting in an opposite sense to the ball, and its
minor toes (the line of progression, as a stat in their grasp), and in the same sense
as the ball and minor toes of the other foot.
It is not improbable that investigation would place the two sesamoid bones, under
the head of the 1st metatarsal, one on each side of the line of progression; just as
it is shewn that the greater the aversion of the foot, the greater the displacement
of balance, and less the means of recovery.
1
If these observations be correct, it will be found that men in heavy marching
order, carrying a full kit, and the gun over the shoulder, waddle more than when
carrying the weapon, only, in the hand, and that even this, they waddle more than
natives with an inturning great toe, when carrying a load on the head, and
consequently they waste more nervous and vital energy.
This action of the outside edge of the foot indicates the position of the waist,
viz., under the outer side.
For policemen, whose durability may be affected by long, hours of standing (a
proper subject of enquiry, governmentally humanitarian, municipally economical)
it would seem to be essential to their well being that the arch should be supporte
by slabs, such as have been described, attached to the waist; the articulating
surfaces of the cuboides (with the freedom of which the slabs should not inte ere)
indicate the fore and aft limits of the middle one, approached by one, the
base of the 5th metatarsal, and, by the most forward one, under the " os catis";
these slabs, if of leather, or of felt, should, to render them waterproof, and no too
rigid, be placed in a chamber, which should then be exhausted, and a thin soltion
of india rubber, or gutta-percha, admitted into the vacuum.
Considering how the Blücher is generally made, viz., without a seam up the
back, it would appear to be impossible, without blocking, to make it accord with
the requirements of the ankle; the heel being so much wider than the sinew above
it, the "tendo Achillis," the Blücher must go narrower to the top; and since the
top, at front and back, would be above the plane of the ankle joint, either the
foot whether heel or toe-cannot be extended, or the boot cannot be laced; but
the shoe gives the necessary freedom-perfect freedom-for these vertical motions,
which take place between the "tibia" and the upper surface of the astragalus, as
well as for the lateral motions, which take place on the lower surfaces of the
astragalus.
The lace-up-boot, in its interference with these motions, presents even greater
objections than the Blücher; their object appears to be to protect the "malleoli "-
although the Blücher is hardly high enough to protect the inner one, which,

page_text: with a properly pointed foot, can rarely be in danger; whereas, the outer one,
or "malleolus fibula" could be protected by the shoe, if the outer side of the
upper were made to rise about an inch, in the form of a semicircle, at this point.
If the uppers of the "Blücher" and the "lace up" have any other object, such
as warmth and comfort, it could be better attained by stitching thin leather, such
as is usually employed for the tongue, say, an extension, laterally, of the top end
of the tongue, round the top edge of the shoe; making in each of the four recesses,
the two in front of, and the two behind the "malleoli," folds, which would open
and close at the top-those in front would open when the heel was extended, and
those behind, when the toe is extended; such an addition to the shoe would not
interfere with perfect freedom.
An extension of the bottom end of the tongue may be made to serve a similar
purpose, it has been stated above, that, in order to diminish the wrinkling and
cracking of the fronts of boots, the pitch of the "last" should be increased; for
this purpose it should, but such a device is not, when regard is, as it should be,
paid to the natural needs of the toes to lie on the ground when the foot is in
comparative repose, as in the case of a soldier or a policeman standing on duty
(in this position the toes will serve the purpose of the out-turned foot, but better)
and also when regard is properly paid to the need of ventilation, the condition of
the skin, and the prevention of the parboiling of the toes, etc., during a long
march; then, the pitch of the "last" should be nil.
The inter action of the sole, the foot, and the front upper, respectively, can
easily be imagined, if there be taken a slab of rubber, 3" or 4" wide, 1" to 2" thick,
9" or 12" long, and a slab "thick, but an inch longer; the latter will represent
the sole, the former the foot-the "front-upper" is the upper surface of this,
except that it extends an inch beyond it, and dips to the end of the "slab; now,
if the slabs be held together, at one end, and bent at the other, the thicker one
will advance upon the thin one, and the upper surface of the thick one will be
shortened in a rather less degree than this, the leather is taken up by the formation
of creases, when the foot is bent; this points to the construction of the coverings
of the feet, in the iron mail of ancient knights, and it is, obviously, impossible
to avoid the crease-or an open seam-or articulation, as in the mail.
There appear to be 3 balls constituting what we roughly term the ball of the
foot a great one, under the heads of the 2nd, 3rd and 4th metatarsals-a less one
under the head of the 1st, and one, still less, under that of the 5th metatarsal;-the
open seam will be a cut made in the leather of the front, beginning over the head
of the first metatarsal, passing over the axes of the three balls, to the head of the
5th metatarsal; the thickness of the foot will determine the width of the opening
in the seam when all the toes touch flat ground; this opening can be covered on
the inside by means of an extension of the root of the tongue, beyond where it is
stitched, or attached, to the front and upper ;-if a slit, only, be made in the front, it
should be cut with the knife pointing down, towards the heel, then the slit will
over lap itself, as the foot bends, and form an articulation, which, like the open
seam, will ventilate the foot. Ventilation may also be effected by dicing the leather
in the same way as some French hat leathers, called "skivers," are marked with a
wheel, or burnisher, when they are said to be "diced"; except that the impressions,
thus made, on the inside of the leather would pass, in nearly parallel lines from the
opening, down to the points of the toes, and elsewhere, nearly vertically, down to
the in-sole-numerous minute channels, of this kind, would assist vapourisation, and
also tend to prevent the fore part of the foot from turning round in the shoe.
For army purposes, or for manufacturing for "the million," it is not only
desirable, but necessary, to take casts of the feet of, say, a dozen persons, each fat,
lean and middling, or rather, broad, narrow and middling-that would be 36 for
each length, of the male sex, ditto, female ;-in the Metropolitan Police, the 3 sizes
most used are 8, 9 and 10,--very few 7 and 11, very many 9-race, or locality,
however, will multiply the number of casts necessary;-these casts should be cut
into vertical sections, say, 1 centimetre apart, the average peripheries determined,
B

page_text: a model made from these, and an average last made accordingly; for the production
of the model, 4 positions could well be adopted, viz., when standing, at attention, or
rather, on one foot, when the foot is poised, when it reaches the ground, and when
it is in the rear, propelling, or about to advance :-Or, this labour could be
shortened, since it involves 144 casts for one size, if the model were produced from
the 9 length, (in 3 widths) and its deviations from the standing foot, propor-
tionated for the rest;-this, however, is only expediency, and, for expediency, the
American system of producing an average photograph, of a type of face, could be
adopted; the lens and the centre of the foot being, always, a given distance apart; -
lenses would require to be fixed in different positions, as, before, behind, at each
side, below, above, and brought into play simultaneously and severally upon the
four positions of the foot, and thus made to furnish the averages of all the requisite
diameters.
For children (and they, already, owe much to Mr. Henry Holden, of Regent
Street, who is also a life-long enthusiast on the functions of the great toe) the
time of durability of the shoe should be averaged, the percentage of growth of a
child's foot, during that time should be ascertained, according to its age, and the
new shoe supplied to it should respond to these determinations ;-from which it is
evident that shoes could not have the debilitating effects of an artificial support
(such as stays) during the time of growth.
What is called a "clump sole," may be applied, all in a piece, if previously
shaped and scored, so as to represent the slabs, and impregnated-this would be
a desirable substitute for the plain pieces of leather now used in common rivet
mending.
As a means of preventing damp-feet, accelerating the drying of the boot, and
increasing its flexibility, so that the toes may straighten-out the excessive pitch
acquired when it has been laid by wet, the insole may be similarly scored across
with incisions not so deep as either unduly to weaken it, or to undulate its surface,
after wear; these incisions would, of course, be on the side that faces the ground,
they would, naturally, die away, at their ends, as the insole rises to the "last" at
its edges, where it is attached to the upper ;-they should be much closer together
than the divisions between the slabs, and as they would contain air, not sensibly
circulating, they will give warmth to the foot-retain its warmth.
Since Nature has determined the space that every man's foot shall cover, the
tread, the amount of leather which touches the ground should not exceed, or if at
all, as little as possible, the tread, as it can be ascertained by Mr. Nicholls'
system, and the edges of the leather, in contact with the ground, should be bevilled
in accordance with the natural edge of the foot, at each part respectively; if this
were so, the raising of dust, and the splashing of mud, would be considerably
reduced on a march, and, especially, if the shoes were pliant and flexible, so as to
allow the tread to be elastic; the system of ascertaining the tread might be
amplified by spreading a piece of wall paper, along which the soldier marches, barefoot,
carrying full kit, without knowing where it is larded and blacked, the impression
thus made, unconsciously, would be perfectly natural, excepting the defects due to
heels & turned-out feet.
More artificial means, of straightening and strengthening the great toe, would
be a double U of elastic material, one of the U's embracing the great toe, the other,
the rest; its inclination to spread would hold it in the front end of the shoe.
Another, would be to have the dividing piece attached to a loose sole, called a
"sock," to be inserted in the shoe ;-and another, would be a small bar, the
upper surface softly shaped to the bearings of the minor toes and front portion
of the ball of the foot, with a dividing piece erected on the bar, for the great toe ;-
this could be worn in the stocking.
Dated this 30th day of September AD 1802

page_text: Improvements in Boots and Shoes, and Lasts and Fastenings for
the same.
I, DAVID HARRY SHUTTLEWORTH-BROWN of Belle Vue Villa, South
Wimbledon, in the County of Surrey, Engineer do hereby declare the nature of
this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
It appears to have been the practice to make boots and shoes with an intention
that they should be much longer than the foot, so as, as well as for other reasons,
to diminish (since the front forms, with the sole, a hollow wedge) the tendency of
the great toe to work towards that position which ought to be occupied by the
middle toe, and produce a bunion at the head of the 1st metatarsal bone, crush the
four weaker toes into maims, afflicted with corns, and to lose its own power of
imparting ease, grace, vigour and precision to the gait.
Partly on account of ignorance, both of such intention, and of the consequences
that follow the frustrating of that intention, and partly on account of a natural
desire to reduce such an artificial exaggeration of the apparent length of the foot,
it has been an alınost universal habit to wear boots and shoes that have been.
productive of this tendency of the great toe, and other evil effects which makers
have sought to avert by extra length, and, sometimes, by extra breadth-so far has
this habit prevailed that the boots and shoes which are now manufactured for
"the million" are, for the most part, based upon the deformed and enfeebled foot
as their model, as if it had been settled that it were fruitless to attempt to correct
the evil which has been wrought, and that all that now remains to be done is to fit
ugliness, and aggravate weakness and deformity, and label, with apologetic flattery,
style."
Such disfigurements, however, and their attendant disablements, may be obviated
by the application to boots and shoes of the contrivances hereinunder described,-
and the power of the foot to raise and propel the body, in so far as it may be
dependent upon the unwarped action of the 1st metatarsal, and the phalanges of
the great toe, needs not to be impaired, as has hitherto been the case, by the use
of boots and shoes.
The numbers, such as (8 a), refer to drawings.
DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS.
The drawings are for the most part described in the text where they are
referred to.
15. The space between the dotted line and the back edges the heel, mark,
represents the roll of the heel, in walking; 15 is the impress of the same right
foot as 19; 19 is made standing, and is looked at from above; 15 is made walking,
and is looked at from below: notice how the ball of the foot, and the great toe
have advanced; the impression made by the soldier in (54) would be like 15, with
probably a greater spread and greater advance, owing to the weight he is
carrying.
19. Notice that the outline of the foot at ol is in advance (by about an inch) in
a right line forward, of the actual outline of the 5th toe; as the foot is thicker at
the inside than at the outside edge, the advance for the outline of the great toe
should be somewhat more.
22. Right foot, shews tibia T, fibula F, malleolus of the tibia, m t.
23. Right foot (in section) pointed towards the observer, F and T, with cross
sections of the fibula and tibia, or shin-bone, shew their relative strength and
positions.
27. Taken alphabetically, represents the successive vagaries of fashion from the

page_text: Crusaders to Henry VIII.-it should be noticed that g, which represents the time
of Henry VII. is similar to 33, the boot of to-day; that it was impossible, even
without a heel; h is from Royal Manuscript 19 cviii, A.D. 1496, and is perfeus, but
the toes had then been so deformed that they had to be concealed, as in m; k k are
Henry VIII.th's feet, from Holbeins picture At the Barbers-Surgeons'-j, from his
Armour at the Tower; n and o, Body Guards of François Premier, who appeared
with Henry VIII., in great magnificence on the Field of the Cloth of Gold. For
b, c, d, e, m also 28 and 47, I am indebted to Mr. Joseph Box's collection; the
others in 27, with 2 a, are from Planché, the last is part of the equestrian figure
at Prague, 14th century.
39. In this, f, f,f", f represent foot or foot force; h¹ t, t¹, t¹, t¹ll represent
the directions in which the latter is exerted; f, f¹, f", fih represent distances
through which the force propels the body; t, t, t¹¹, th represent the directions
in which the forces act to cover those distances; the momentum has of course a
greater traverse than the force, i.e., the body has naturally a greater traverse than
the feet-take that of the soldier, with his kit, at 200 lbs., and at an elevation
of 4 feet.
Provision is likewise made for the arch (1) and (1 a) and for the transverse arch
of the foot (2) and (26), for its ventilation, its elasticity, flexibility (2 a) and
tread.
The simplest form of that part of the invention, which has more particularly to
do with keeping the great toe in its natural position, is seen in the tennis-shoe (3),
wherein there is attached to the rubber sole, at the part that would stand under
the space between the great toe and the second toc, a slab of rubber or vulcanite,
standing about one inch high, and about 1" to 14" wide--in the case of rubber,
which is affected by the fatty acid emanation, it requires to be covered.
The shoe-last requires to have a slit in it, to admit of the slab; and the slit
should extend to the front end of the "last," so that, when the shoe is made, the
"last
can be withdrawn, (4).
"
In ordinary shoes, a thin piece of metal, (5 a, b, c), such as nickel, silverplated if
impure, aluminium, or tinned iron or mild steel, about 34" long by 1" wide, is bent
so as to form a 1, and the shaft of the 1 is perforated for stitches, near the cross-
piece, the shaft is then covered with leather and sewn round; now, if there be a
slit in the "last," where the division between the great and second toes should be,
when the in-sole is laid on, the shaft of the 1 is pushed through a cut in the latter,
into the slit; the sole is then applied, and, when the shoe is finished, the "last
is withdrawn, as before.
Vulcanite, celluloid, zylonite, bone, or any other suitable material may be used
for the substances that can be cast in moulds, such as gutta-percha, and are
strong and reliable.
The parts constituting the cross piece of the 1, which are concealed between
the in-sole and the main-sole, should be slit so as not to lie flat and stiff, between
the soles, but to permit of their flexion, and they are better, bent at right angles
(not sharply) from an arc at about 3" radius, and not from a straight line at the
point where the shaft meets the cross-piece of the 1, (5 r, r).
When steel is used, 18 imperial standard gauge for men (19 or 20 for women
and children) may be employed, single, about 2" long, and 1", at one end, to 13" wide,
at the other end (7); the smaller half of this passes through the in-sole, and forms
the post, standing between the great and the second toe, and a convenient form for
this part is an oval, 11" long by 3" deep (between the toes), its lower side expands
downwards by in-turning sweeps, which then extend, fore and aft, from " to 1", at
this part it is buried in the in-sole; the remaining half has two slits in it-two
slits naturally form three fingers-these form the cross-piece of the 1, and the
middle one lies under the great toe, the other two, under the 2nd and 3rd toes.
It is desirable that the middle finger be g" long, so that it may be borne-upon by
the body of the great toe, and it is necessary that the slits exceed its length (of g")
as the metal will not stand to be bent abruptly into these horizontal fingers, at the

page_text: ends of the fingers, without snapping, or, at least, serious displacement of its fibre ;
the slits thus extend beyond the arc from which the fingers are bent, and slightly
beyond the chord of the segment of a circle (3" radius) that is buried in the insole;
the two onside fingers are 1" long, and, to make them parallel, the fingers are
separated by V slits, the angle of the V being determined by the radius of the arc
from which the fingers are bent ;-for the toe-post here (8 a, b) described the steel,
initially taken, requires to be, as stated, 13" wide, near the points of the outer
fingers; the recesses, formed by the in-turning sweeps, enable the leather covering
to be secured by the stitches, such as are used in covering buckles, which, in passing
round the oval, enter the recesses, and perforation of the plate with stitch-holes is
not necessary the oval, however, is perforated with 8 holes, (the middle finger,
F6" wide, is also perforated with 2 holes, the outer fingers, "wide, need not be
perforated) so that the moisture, if any, absorbed by the leather covering in contact
with the great toe, may pass away, as by pores; and with a delicate skin, it is
desirable to have a layer of cloth between the leather covering (in contact with the
great toe) and the plate.
In the very numerous experiments which Mr. Holden has made, so many adults
are found to have the 2nd toe lying over the great toe nail, and vice versa, and the
great toe itself with two bends outwards, that it is necessary to adopt the above
dimensions; the post (9) standing "high, consisting of a "circle, cut by a
segment of a circle "diam. and having the outer fingers only long, being
suitable for the less deformed, who are comparatively few, and for children.
For those rare cases in which there is no deformity, or for aborigines taking to
boots, or for those who have been restored by these devices, this following
contrivance may be employed;
Instead of in the slit in the "last," there is placed in the boot a pure nickel or
silver thimble, say a full "diam. x 2" long, parallel, except that the open end is a
little contracted, and on the insole there is placed (10) a washer, with a screwed
hole, under the thimble, then the blank of a joiner's screw is tapped near the head,
and the shaft is reduced so as to leave two ridges or rings on it, one of which would
be near the closed end of the the thimble, the other near the open end; now, when
the main-sole is laid on, the screw is passed through the sole, through the washer,
through the insole, into the thimble, till the thread engages with the washer, then
it is screwed tight, and the toe-post, with a revolving cover, viz., the thimble, is
fixed in position.
Again, when long-topped boots, such as "Wellingtons," are used, and the averted
great toe cannot readily find its place within the toe-post, a device very similar (11)
to the last-described may be employed; the thimble, instead of being round and of
thin metal, can be a solid plate of vulcanite or bone, rather thick in the middle, and
bored with an oval hole, the shaft of the screw can likewise be oval but of less
dimensions; the thimble will thus partially swivel on the screw-shaft, and the
great toe, though averted, will enter the space, momentarily enlarged, with ease.
To overcome this difficulty of inserting the great toe, a long strip of leather,
about inch wide, is taken, and part of it is coiled into a roll, the end outermost,
this roll (12) is placed between the great and 2nd toes, the boot is drawn on, and
when on, the leather, which naturally uncoils itself, is drawn out.
The great toe may be kept in a natural position by means of a piece of leather
about 24" wide and 2" long, of such good quality and thickness as is employed for
the front-upper (13); this is folded lengthwise, and is now 14" wide and 2" long-
the upper end of the crease is slit for about and the lower end about "-within
the fold a bit of hard, stiff leather is inserted 1" wide, and, as to its upper and lower
edges, of the same section as the "last" (slit for its insertion) is ", about, to 2"
from the front-the top slit is opened, the ends spread at right angles to the fold,
and sewn to the front upper-a toe-cap may cover this stitching now, the fold is
passed through the slit in the "last," the crease being towards the body of the
foot, the in-sole is applied, as through a cut, in it, is passed the lower slit end of
the fold-the slit is opened, the ends spread, at right angles to the fold, and sewn

page_text: to the outer side of the in-sole-(the upper ends might have been sewn to the outer
side of the front-upper, passing through a slit in it).
It is obvious that these devices require a Japanese stocking, i.e., with a thumbstall
for the great toe-much has been said of the advantages of wool, for stockings,
they, however, on account of their shrinkage, through fulling in the wash, and for
other reasons, stated in the next paragraph as much as the shoe, without such
devices, deform the foot if they have not such a stall, (14).
In forming the "last" there should be plenty of space given for the great toe, so
that it may not, by the inner side of the front-upper, be unduly pressed against the
devices above described, and, especially, is room needed over the great toe-nail,
and, particularly, the inner side of it-this calls for remark, because the space
required is more than would seem to be requisite, and this fact is attributable to an
unseen action which takes place in an ordinary shoe, at every step, an action (15)
which has, probably, neither been observed nor suspected; it is this:-Suppose the
right foot advanced and planted on the ground, when the left foot is raised, let it
pass the right at this moment the whole weight of the body is on the right, this
weight has depressed the arch; the foot is nearly half an inch longer than it was
before it was planted, but the left is still advancing, the right leg is inclined forward,
and the heel is beginning to rise, and the weight is thrown upon the ball of the
foot-the body is steadied and controlled by the foot, aided, or supplemented, by
the great toe which, at this point, as the shoe is bending, and therefore shortening,
slips forward (in the shoe) and bends outward, towards the middle of the front of
the shoe, where, alone, it can find the necessary altitude for the great toe-nail;
this slip-forward requires that the front-upper should give the great toe room to
play and the device prevents it from bending outward-and therefore the room
requires to extend to the front of the nail in its most advanced position-the
bending outward, during the slip-forward at every step, accounts for the bending of
the great toc itself, for the opening of the joint and the formation of the bunion,
and for many evils which admit of no other explanation, and which are aggravated
by the tendency of the great toe to go to the badly formed extremity of the
ordinary stocking.
Another device, that may not necessitate the use of a thumbstall in the
stocking which is, however, in all circumstances commendable-indeed, digitated
stockings (16) are, alone, really sanitary-is to cut, instead of a slit through the
"last," a narrow pit (17) in the under side of it, extending to the front end-in
the fore-part of the pit a loose wedge is inserted into the after-part, the in-sole,
well wetted, is rammed, and a wedge of hard leather is rammed into the narrower
pit thus made in the in-sole, and secured in position-the sole is applied, the "last"
withdrawn, and the loose wooden wedge, left in the shoe, is removed.
A strip of leather sewn into a loop, like a tailor's thimble, for the great toe, may
be slipped into the slit in the "last" or a limp (18) and thin material, such as
linen, may be employed, and secured to the front-upper, in-sole, welt, or sole,
according to the method of making, and, when a stocking with a thumbstall is not
available, the loop will collapse and be out of usc.
The number of bones between the heel and the toes, and the quantity of the
tissues between them, and the elasticity of these tissues, constitute the measure of
the flexibility (2 a) that is natural to the foot; and the bases on which stand the
arch (1), and the arch (2) across the foot (formed by the cuboides and the
cuneiform bones) are consequently, on the application or the withdrawal of
the weight of the body, moved by flexion of the foot, and use of the muscles; it
is therefore evident that, from the tip of the toe to where the "os calcis" rests on
the heel of the shoe, the shoe should be flexible; for this reason, for the same, or a
similar, relative weight and strength of shoe, the sole should be made about half
as thick as is now usual, and the waist about one quarter as thick (for town wear)
and, in order, without unnecessarily diminishing the flexibility, to keep the feet
above the wet, to enable the soles to quickly dry, to protect the feet against
pebbles, as well as to aid with a grip in progression, and tend, even without. the

page_text: above described devices, to cause the great toe to lie in its natural position-the
only one in which it can properly perform its functions-there may be applied to
the sole, at right angles to the line of progression (not of the axis of the foot)
slabs (19) of leather, rubber, gutta-percha, or any other suitable substance
(about "wide for men's, and 1 centimetre, for women's) with bevilled edges-the
ends of that face which is against the sole may be within the stitches which
attach the sole to the welt, in line with the periphery of the tread (not necessarily
of the sole), and thus the ends of that face which is against the ground will be
within the tread-the sides, or long edges, of these slabs need not quite touch each
other, but if they should, there will be, when the foot is on even ground, triangular
spaces between them, but, having regard to the tendency of that portion of the
material which comes nearest to the ground to flatten out, or spread, the bevilled
edges should take the form of a convex curve, approaching, in character, the lower
quadrant of a circle-for the purposes of repair these slabs can be stamped with a
"size" and "number," so that any one, or more, of them can be replaced with
slabs identical in form-the heel may likewise be fitted with such slabs, not, or
only very slightly, bevilled-except round the edge of the heel-but shaped.
When the naked foot is placed upon paper, and a pencil is passed round
it, the pencil should have removed the segment of the cylinder of wood that
holds the lead (19) in the slot in the other segment, and the lead should be
sharpened towards the side thus exposed-the tread, which is conveniently
ascertained by Mr. Richard Nicholls' method, will always be considerably within
the mark the pencil makes, owing to the rotundity of the edge of the foot, (20, 21
and 55).
Modern improvers of boots and shoes appear most of them to ignore the
comparative inutility of that part of the sole which is between the tread and the
outline, and, consequently, make the boots too large-the soles too wide-too flat,
transversely, also-and the superfluous leather is not bevilled away, and much
unnecessary weight is carried by wearers, who are not always plodding through
marshes this applies with greater force to the back of the heels (40 and 55)-
moreover, the bottoms of "lasts," from the tip of the toe to the bed of the " OS
calcis," are too flat; the form should be more like that of an , lying prone,
and it should transversely approach that of a U; the first of these, the
would give a greater length of tread for a less length of shoe, besides diminishing
the tendency to wrinkle and crack the upper at each step, when the foot in the
rear is about to advance, and enabling the lace in front to support the maiu
arch of the foot-under this arch, from under the cuboides and scaphoides,
forwards, (21), the in-sole of the waist should be bevilled on the side next the foot,
then, especially, is the last mentioned effect of lacing obtained when the waist is
very thin, (40).
Monsieur Robert, of Paris, who had worked at St. Cloud, under the personal
instructions of Napoleon 111., devising an army-boot, used to make the waist as
narrow as the 4th or 5th finger and, in addition, worked the leather till it was as
soft, pliable and porous almost as in-soling. For similar reasons the U form, put
transversely, for the sole and heel will give greater capacity in a narrower boot-
it should be borne in mind also that the contour of the foot diminishes when it is
raised from the ground, and that all materials, such as leather, suitable for its
covering, give and expand with wear, and that, therefore, and for the other reasons
cited, the contour, when taken with the weight of the body upon the foot, is apt
to be in excess of its needs in a shoe. The transverse arch, formed by the cuneiform
bones and cuboides, is accommodated, with the insole bevilled as described, by the
flexibility of the waist.
In measuring, the rule, or table, on which the foot placed, should have a
slide (24) upon it, with an index standing vertically, so as to be made to touch
the ankle bone, the inner malleolus (mt 22 and 23) of the tibia—this
slide and index should also move to, and touch the head of the 1st metatarsal
bone and, on the other side of the rule, or table, there is required a slide with an

page_text: .
index which can be moved to touch the head of the 5th metatarsal bone, and also
made to indicate the exact position of the projection on the outer side of the base
of the same bone, (25). The object of indicating the position of the ankle-bone
is to determine the length of the "os calcis," i.e., whether or no, and to what extent
the foot is lark-heeled, and the reverse-the object of defining the position of the
heads of the 1st and 5th metatarsal bones is to determine the two ends of the crest
or ridge of the pitch or bend in the sole of the "last"-this ridge is not a straight
line, but, if the points of the fingers of the left hand be placed upon the sole of the
right "last," the point of the 1st finger corresponding with the head of the 1st
metatarsal, the 2nd and 3rd finger-points will nearly correspond with the heads
of the 2nd and 3rd metatarsals, the 4th finger-point, with the head of the
5th metatarsal, and the 4th metatarsal will come between these last two, and the
previous two points of coincidence-the object of determining the position of
the projection at the base of the 5th metatarsal is, that it may be represented on
the "last," and so provided for that, however neat the fit of the boot, it will not
suffer from pressure, since it articulates obliquely, and almost longitudinally, with
the massive cuboides bone, which, again, has a parallel articulation with the great
"os calcis "this accounts for the extreme sensitiveness of this projection, of a
comparatively weak bone, to any degree of constant pressure.
"
The pitch of the "last" should increase with the height of the heel of the shoe-
but as to heels, both boots and shoes should have no "heels"-to attempt to
perfect the boot or shoe, and retain the "heel" is to attempt a compromise between
right and wrong, and will baffle the wit of man till the end of time-the "heel" is
an imposture, "heels are the pedestals on which we set up the pride and shame of
civilisation of what advantage is it to any man to stand on "heels" if every one
else does the same? Henry VIII. may have founded our reputation as a "practical
people" when, to correct the errors of his own, and previous times, he made broad
toes (27) a class distinction, by taxing them, but if, for example, Louis XIV. wore
high heels (28) to increase his stature, it were a grave error in his courtiers to
imitate him-true courtesy would have disregarded them--it appears to have been
useless to enact laws against them, for such laws have been enacted, and allowed to
become obsolete an order from the Education Department, to teach the anatomy
of the foot in schools would scarcely bear fruit in the first generation, so far is
knowledge set from its application-and any shoe-maker who should presume to
make and prescribe the use of boots without "heels would simply court ruin, for
everyone will, as it were, walk up-hill (say 1 in 30) with his toes downwards,
shewing a greater length of foot than he needs, on a level path, which he
couverts (29) into a species of tidal landing-stage-gangway, such as those at
London Bridge and elsewhere, traversed by obstacles at every step, and all for the
illusory advantage of an extra inch of stature-or, is it to raise the arch of the
foot? If so, imagine the effect (30) of raising one side of an arch, even though
the structure have been designed with inconceivable skill-in respect of the great,
2nd and 3rd toes, the four bearing surfaces, between the "os calcis" and the
metatarsals, are directly, if gradually, thrown out of position, and must alter in
form to continue in contact-the weight is unnaturally projected on to the toes, the
transverse arch is depressed, and the elasticity that gives grace and vigour to the
gait is lost.
"
For the purposes of an army, the last named is an important factor, and if men
must seem imposing, they can do so more effectively by wearing plumes and
epaulettes than by wearing stilts-but the crucial moment of their lives is when
they stand, with fixed bayonet, facing the enemy-then, their feet must feel (31) the
ground, and the soles of their shoes should be as like the pad of nature as art can
make them for a man to be slip-shod may mean death-with the flash of steel he
must advance, on the ball of the foot, and hold the ground with the great toe, or,
for very life, more quickly retire on the heel of the foot-the "heel of the shoe
would have prevented the advance by the measure of its height, nearly, and
diminished the force of the advance, as in ascending an inclined plane (of say

page_text: 1 in 40), and it would have caused him to bend his left knee more, and advance
further with it than necessary, with, not only, the further to retire, but the
possibility of a greater loss of equilibrium than he could restore, to save his life-
so much for the left foot, now, as to the right, if the sole were much wider than the
foot, the inner edge of the sole and heel constitute the end of a short broad lever,
by means of which, when the propelling power of his foot is exerted, the ground
twists his shoe round his foot-the higher the heel of his shoe, the longer this
lever is, and the heel of his foot, instead of meeting with a firm resistance from the
heel-block, is pressing against the yielding stiffening over the right side of the
heel, whilst the inside edge of his foot is slipping across the sole of his shoe-in
short, this right foot, instead of being planted firmly on the ground, is poised on a
loose column with no stability-here, too, the ball of the foot and the great toe
play the major part.
Passing for one moment to external means for developing the strength of the
foot, by restoring, to their normal condition, the bones and the inter osseous tissues,
atrophied by shoe-heels and averted great tocs, for restoring the arch of the foot,
and even bringing back the marrow to the phalanges of the 4th and 5th toes, and,
with all these, native grace of carriage, there might be constructed an exercising-
ring in which men could be marched barefoot, and at the double, for a short time
daily, by companies-the diameter of the ring being as many feet as there are men
would give them 3 feet apart, in single file-the ring would be a trough, say
18" wide, made of cement, level with the ground, and filled with puddled clay to
the depth of 6", the top of the clay being kept moist by the addition of a little
glycerine to the water to keep the ring clean and free from pebbles, it would
require to be either bordered with asphalte rings, within and without, or, when not
in use, covered with boarding, (32).
That garment, which, since the days of King George, has made every man, who
has to stand before the public, wish to hide his legs-trowsers-is responsible for
the desire to have the great toe appear as if it grew between the 3rd and 4th,
because a lobsided plinth is inadmissible as the foundation of a cylindrical pillar,
and this (33) appears to have caused, in laced boots and shoes, the slit in the upper
to be made in a wrong place and direction, whereby the lacing is rendered
ineffectual, and the beauty and significance of the means by which balance is, in
nature, obtained are obscured-in nature balance is obtained by continuous action,
the ball of the foot is as busy as a revolving sphere, it is throwing out five rays,
nay six, for the heel is to it subservient-the ridge (34 and 48) over the 1st meta-
tarsal, to the head of the astragalus, is obviously the position and direction
indicated for the slit in the shoe, and this enables the lace to draw the waist up to
the arch-visual balance takes place when it should, when both feet are planted-
when one, only, is planted, only action, Nature's form in action, is presented to the
eye. How beautiful such a form may be, even when clothed, is conceivable when
one sees a Roman shoe, which was, till 1884 in the Guild Hall Museum, was the
chief object in a Guild exhibit in "Old London," and has not, or had not recently,
been restored to public view.
The front of a shoe is, naturally, cut from a part of the skin which presents the
finest texture, the rest being relegated to the sides, leading to the back-the position
of the lacing-slit, above given, favours economy, and, therefore, greater choice in
the selection of the skin for the front-for, this more effective lacing requires that
the tension should not traverse, at least, on the inner side of the arch, the seam
that usually passes obliquely from near the head of the 1st metatarsal, back and
down, to the waist, and which, in joining the front to the side, leads a long point
of the front skin under the fore part of the arch. where it is not much seen (35)—
this seam should go down and meet the sole just behind the inner sesamoid bone,
at the end of the fore part of the waist-thus, the tension of the lace, in drawing
up the waist, is exerted only on the side skin-the seam is not strained, and the
front skin is economised, whilst the design accords more closely with, and defines,
the natural formation of the foot.

page_text: A race-runner braces up his feet by tightening his laces before he steps on to the
path, and it would assist the soldier if, time and opportunity serving, he could brace
up his feet before rushing to the attack-to have shoes continually tight is
debilitating generally, and especially, to the inter-osseous muscular tissues between
the metatarsal bones, and long continued straining of these muscles, whilst wearing
shoes too wide and slack, deprives them of their elasticity - their function being to
draw the bones, spread by the imposed weight of the body, vigourously together, to
knit the foot for the expenditure of forces in raising and propelling the body-if,
therefore, the shoe permit the bones to spread too much, and too continuously, as
in long, forced marches, the elasticity of these muscles is impaired the means of
bracing the foot require, then, to be perfectly simple, convenient, and effective, so
as to answer, immediately to the requirements of the occasion.
As a fastening, the lace would seem to be neither so good nor so expeditious as
a modification of the clogger's clasp (36)-the members of the lower one will meet
over the lower part, .., near the head, of the 1st metatarsal, and they will be so shaped
that they engage fairly when the inner one is bent at right angles, over this bone, and
the outer one, at right angles to the mean direction of the other four metatarsals, or
rather, that of the 5th, which is the principal of them-the upper clasp, or clasps,
will be narrower than this, and so placed as not to interfere with the articulations
of the bones over which they lie, and with due regard to their own function of
drawing the waist up to the arch-(lace eyelets will act in pairs, if, in the outer
row, (48) each is in rear of its fellow in the inner row, and with similar effect)-
if the clasps be attached to the shoes by means of rivet heads, moving in a door-
chain-slot in each member, they will naturally select their proper directions, and
they can easily be replaced, or lengthened, beyond the range provided in the female
member the lace is, however, susceptible of the following improvement, viz., to
be made as a worsted blind or picture cord, except that the core, instead of being
hemp, is rubber, and the coating, attached to the core by rubber-solution, an
expansible or flexible tube of silk, worsted or mohair-and, that the tension may
be equalised, it is necessary that the tongue should be of thick leather, or any
other suitable, flexible substance, deeply embossed or scored with V's, or X's,
(37 a and b) (according to the method of lacing) reaching from eyelet to eyelet-
the underside of the "tops" should likewise be backed with similar material,
along each row of eyelets, embossed or scored, so as to meet, (37 c) and thus
complete, the channels in the tongue for the free movement of the lace which,
hitherto, has been held by friction of such resistance that the lower eyelets can
hardly be drawn towards each other without breaking the lace-this device may
be made to cover the defect of a (38 a) depressed instep, and it can be exaggerated
so as to prevent the back of the trowser (38 b) from forming a yawning flue in
rear of a man's heel, and depriving him of more diguity than even a high hat
can restore if the edges of this device be properly bevilled it will relieve a
sensible, and therefore unwholesome, pressure on the instep.
In walking, the body acquires a momentum, equal to its velocity × by its
weight, moving in the direction of the line of progression-the body, then,
represented in plan, is like the cross-piece of a 1 square, and the centre-line of
the shaft is the line of progression, which ought to be cut by the great toe of the
advancing foot-how the momentum, acquired, is sustained and accelerated in this
direction by a turned-out foot with an averted great toe can only be through the
expenditure of power wasted in equilibrating the body, and by restraining the
action of the outer portion, or ball, of the foot which, if it exerted its natural
force, would, on account of its being turned away from the line of progression,
throw the body more across the line-more out of balance-this natural force too,
in its effect (39) on progression, whatever measure of it is put in action, is
diminished in a two-fold degree
1st, as the cosine of the angle of divergence is less than the radius, or length of
the foot, in a right line forward, and :-
2nd, as the great toe is eufeebled by further aversion-geometrically, this is a
:

page_text: visible measurable quantity, as in the foot-physiologically, the averted toe is nearly
useless mechanically, more than useless.
Moreover, when the force of propulsion is exerted by the turned-out foot, and
also when the weight of the body falls upon the turned-out foot in advance, it is
obvious that, in both cases, the arch is strained on its longer and weaker side, on
its inner side only, i.e., from the posterior extremity of the " os calcis" to the
sesamoid bones under the head of the 1st metatarsal-and if men who allow their
toes to diverge from the line of progression, as they walk, are not "flat-footed," it
is in spite of their own efforts to make themselves so-and, certainly, the arch of
every such man's foot must be lower than it would otherwise be, and his case is
aggravated, twice in every pace, by the wearing of heels-whereas, if, as in nature,
the great toe cut the line of progression, the jar to the system (great in heavy
marching order), and especially to the structure of the foot itself, would be
diminished, nay, nil-for Nature has supplied a mass of tissue under the outer edge
of the foot, from the extremity of the "os calcis" to the head of the 5th metatarsal,
-and, moreover, the outer edge (26) of this massive bone, the os calcis, is much
nearer the ground than is the inner edge-and its anterior surface projects over a
portion of the rear surface of the cuboid, also a massive bone, and the cuboid's
anterior surface projects over the inner, rear surface of the 5th metatarsal, which
is more massive than the 2nd, 3rd, or 4th, and nearer the ground-all which facts
indicate, clearly, that the fall of the foot should be a (15) gradual approach to
the ground of the outer edge of the foot, from the heel to the head of the 5th
metatarsal that the pressure should then gradually traverse the heads of the
4th 3rd and 2nd (balanced by their toes, the while) to the head of the 1st
metatarsal (and the in-turned great toe, of the foot in rear, should begin to act in
an opposite (39 nt r) sense to the ball, central or great ball, and 5th metatarsal, i.e.,
in the same sense as the 5th metatarsal and ball of the foot in advance) by this
gradual process does Nature bring the weight from the heel to the sesamoid bones-
starting from, and ending with, the great toe crossing the line of progression-all
which is perfectly continuous and direct action, whereby, with the foot pointed in
front, momentum is not arrested, and perfect balance is maintained; and such a
movement can not be effected, even by means of manoeuvring, with a foot turned
outwards and, again, the minor toes of the direct-line-foot assist in propulsion,
whilst those of the averted-foot cannot-hence their atrophy.
The body of the ball of the foot, say, of the right foot, propelling, is naturally
to the right of the line of progression-how perfectly beautiful and mechanical, as
a means of maintaining balance, it is, that the shock of the propulsion imparted
shall be, when nearly spent, sustained by the gradual approach of the rounded, or
winding, elongated, outer, fleshy surface of, say, the left foot, and its ball, meeting
the ground on the left of the line of progression, whilst the great toe of each foot
is acting in an opposite sense to the ball and its minor toes (the line of progression
as a staff in their grasp), and in the same sense as the ball and minor toes of the
other foot.
It is not improbable that investigation would place the two sesamoid bones,
under the head of the 1st metatarsal, one on each side of the line of progression-
as it is here shewn that the greater the aversion of the foot, the greater the
displacement of balance, and less the means of recovery.
If these observations be correct, it will be found that men in heavy marching
order, carrying a full kit, and the gun over the shoulder, waddle more than when
carrying the weapon, only, in the hand, and that, even thus, they waddle more
than "natives," with an in-turning great toe, when carrying a load on their heads,
and, consequently, they waste more nervous and vital energy.
The action of the outside edge of the foot indicates the proper position of the
waist, viz., under the outer side (19).
For policemen, whose durability may be affected by long hours of standing (a
proper subject of enquiry, governmentally humanitarian, municipally economical),
it would seem to be essential to their well-being that the arch should be supported

page_text: by slabs, such as have been described, attached to the waist-the articulating
surfaces of the cuboides (1, (40)) (with the freedom of which the slabs should not
interfere) indicate the fore and aft limits of the middle one, approached by one
under the base of the 5th metatarsal, and by the most forward one of those under
the "os calcis "-these slabs, if of leather, or of felt or compressed vegetable
fibre, should, to render them waterproof, and not too rigid, be placed in a chamber,
which should then be exhausted; and a thin solution of rubber, or gutta-percha,
admitted into the vacuum.
Considering how the Blücher is generally made, viz., without a seam (41 a be) up
the back, it would appear to be impossible, without "blocking," to make it accord
with the requirements of the ankle-the heel, being so much wider than the sinew
above it, the tendo Achillis, the Blücher must go narrower to the top, and since
the top, at front and back, would be above the plane (23) of the ankle joint, either
the foot whether heel or toe-cannot be extended, or the boot cannot be laced-
but the shoe (42) gives the necessary freedom, perfect freedom for these vertical
motions, which take place between the tibia and the upper surface of the astragalus,
as well as for the lateral motions, which take place on the lower surfaces of the
astragalus.
66
"
The lace-up-boot, in its interference (43) with these motions, presents even
greater objections than the Blücher-their object appears to be to protect the
malleoli, although the Blücher is hardly high enough to protect the inner one,
which, with a properly pointed foot, can rarely be in danger-whereas, the outer
one, or malleolus fibulæ, could be protected by the shoe, if the outer side of the
"
upper
were made to rise about an inch, in the form of a semicircle, at this
point, (44).
If the "
of the Blücher and the "lace-up
uppers
have any other object,
such as warmth and comfort, it could be better attained by stitching thin leather,
such as is usually employed for the tongue, say, an extension, laterally, of the top
end of the tongue, round the top edge of the (45) shoe-making in each of the
four recesses (the two in front of, and the two behind the malleoli), folds which
would open and close at the top-those in front would open when the heel was
extended, and those behind, when the toe is extended-such an addition to the shoe
would not interfere with perfect freedom.
An extension of the bottom end of the tongue may be made to serve a similar
purpose it has been stated above, that, in order to diminish the wrinkling and
cracking of the fronts of boots, the pitch of the "last" should be increased-for
this purpose it should, but such a device is not, when regard is, as it should be,
paid to the natural needs of the toes to lie on the ground when the foot is in
comparative repose, as in the case of a soldier or a policeman standing on duty (in
this position the toes will serve the purpose of the out-turned foot, but better) and
also when regard is properly paid to the need of ventilation, the condition of the
skin, the prevention of the parboiling of the toes, etc., as during a long march, then,
the pitch of the last should be nil.
The inter-action of the sole, the foot, and the front-upper, respectively, can easily
be imagined (46) if there be taken a slab of rubber 3" or 4" wide, 1" to 2" thick,
9" or 12" long, and a slab " thick, as wide, and an inch longer-the latter will
represent the sole, the former, the foot-the "front upper" is the upper surface of
this, except that it extends an inch beyond it, and dips to the end of the " slab-
now, if the slabs be held together at one end, and bent, at the other, the thicker
one will advance upon the thin one, and the upper surface of the thick one will be
shortened in a rather less degree than this, the leather is taken up by the
formation of creases, when the foot is bent-this points to the construction of
the coverings of the feet in the iron-mail (47) of ancient knights, and it is
obviously impossible to avoid the crease-or an open seam-or articulation, as in
the mail.
There appear to be three "balls" discernible as constituting what we roughly
term the ball of the foot-a great one (19 and 15) under the heads of the 2nd, 3rd

page_text: and 4th metatarsals, a less one under the head of the 1st, and one still less under
that of the 5th metatarsal-the open seam will be a cut (48) made in the leather
of the "front," beginning over the head of the 1st metatarsal, passing over the
axes of the three balls to the head of the 5th metatarsal-the thickness of the foot
will determine the width of the opening in the seam when all the toes touch flat
ground-this opening can be covered on the inside by means of an extension of the
root of the tongue, beyond where it is stitched, or attached, to the "front" and
upper "if a slit, only, be made in the "front," it should be cut with the knife
pointing down towards the heel, then the slit will overlap itself, as the foot bends,
and form an articulation, which, like the open seam, will ventilate the foot.
Ventilation may also be effected by dicing the leather in the same way as
some French hat-leathers, called "skivers," are marked with a wheel or burnisher,
when they are said to be "diced," except that the impressions thus made, on the
inside of the leather, would pass in nearly parallel lines from the opening, (49),
down to the points of the toes, and elsewhere, nearly vertically down to the
in-sole-numerous minute channels of this kind would assist vapourisation, and also
tend to prevent the fore-part of the foot from turning round in the shoe.
For army purposes, or for manufacturing for "the million," it is not only desirable,
but necessary, to take casts of the feet of, say, a dozen persons, each broad, narrow
and middling, that would be 36 for each length of the male sex (long distance
record makers might be selected) ditto female-in the Metropolitan Police, the
sizes most used are 8, 9 and 10, very few 7 and 11, very many 9-race or locality,
however, will multiply the number of casts necessary-these casts should be cut
into vertical sections (50 a) say, 1 centimetre apart, the average peripheries deter-
mined, (b), a model made from these, (c), and an average "last"made accordingly-
for the production of the model four positions could well be adopted, viz., when
standing at attention, or rather, on one foot, when the foot is poised, when it
reaches the ground, and when it is in the rear, propelling or about to advance,-
or the labour could be shortened, since it involves 144 casts for one length, if the
model were produced from the 9 length, in 3 widths, and its deviations from the
standing foot proportionated for the rest-this, however, is only expediency, and
for expediency, the American system of producing an average photograph, of a
type of face, could be adopted; the lens and the centre of the foot being always a
given distance apart,-lenses would require to be fixed in different positions, as
before, behind, at each side, below (the foot on plate glass will give the tread),
above, and brought into play simultaneously and severally upon the four positions
of the foot, and thus made to furnish the averages of all the requisite
diameters, (50 d).
-
For children (and they already owe much to Mr. Henry Holden of Regent Street,
who is a life-long enthusiast on the functions of the great toe) the time of durability
of the shoe should be averaged, the percentage of a child's foot during that time,
ascertained, according to age, and the new shoes supplied to it should respond to
these determinations-then, shoes, evidently, could not have the debilitating effects
of an artificial support (such as stays) during the time of growth.
What is called a "clump-sole" may be applied, all in a piece, if previously
shaped and scored, so as to represent the slabs, and impregnated-this would be a
desirable substitute for the plain pieces of leather now used in common rivet-
mending, (51).
As a means of preventing damp feet, accelerating the drying of the boot, and
increasing its flexibility, and that the toes may straighten out the excessive pitch
acquired when it has been laid by wet, the in-sole may be similarly scored across
with incisions, not so deep as either unduly to weaken it, or to undulate its surface
after wear these incisions would of course be on (52) the side that faces the
ground, they would, naturally, die away at their ends, as the in-sole rises to the
last," at its edges, where it is attached to the "upper"-they should be much
closer together than the divisions between the slabs, and, as they would contain
air, not sensibly circulating, they will give warmth to the foot, retain its warmth.
66

page_text: Since Nature has determined the space that every man's foot shall cover, the
tread, the amount of leather which touches the ground should not exceed, or, if
at all, as little as possible, the tread, as it is (19) ascertained by Mr. Nicholls'
system, and the edges of the leather in contact with the ground should be bevilled
in accordance (53) with the natural edge of the foot, at each part respectively-if
this were so, the raising of dust and the splashing of mud would be considerably
reduced on a march, and, especially, if the shoes were pliant and flexible, so as to
allow the tread to be elastic-the system of ascertaining the tread might be
amplified by spreading a piece of wall-paper, along which the soldier marches,
barefoot, carrying full kit, without knowing where it is (54) larded and blacked,
the impression thus made, unconsciously, would be perfectly natural, excepting the
defects due to "heels" and turned-out feet.
More artificial means of strengthening and straightening the great toe would be
a double U of elastic material, one of the U's embracing the great toe, the other,
the rest its inclination to spread would hold (55) it in the front end of the shoe.
Another would be to have the dividing-piece, or toe-post, attached to a loose
sole, called a "sock," to be inserted in the shoe (56)-and another would be to
have a small bar, the upper surface of which is softly shaped to the bearings of the
minor toes and front portion of the ball of the foot, with a dividing-piece, or
toe-post, erected on the bar, for the great toe-this could be worn in the stocking,
the ordinary stocking, (57).
It appears that, about the year 1863, attempts were made to straigthen the
great toe by means of a partition, on a rigid base, extending to the front of the
shoe, but these were found too inconvenient to be practicable; and many surgeons
have devised appliances for the purpose of restoring the use of the great toe,
crippled and disabled, probably, by the causes here set forth-these devices,
however, seem to have been either clumsily carried out, or not so designed as to
be of use for any but the special cases which called them into existence; whereas,
the numerous persons who have been so good as to permit experiments with the
principal devices here described have only confirmed the anticipations of
osteologists and others as to their universal applicability-and where is the artist
who is not in search of the foot of an adult ?
The bunions of the undersigned were, 12 years ago, pronounced to be incurable
-the heels and toes of his shoes now touch whilst he can place the end of a
walking-stick between the heads of his 1st metatarsals.
The sum of the whole difficulty, in regard to the aversion of the great toe, lies
here! No matter how perfectly the "last" may conform with the great and
minor toes, as to their relative (58) thickness, while shoes are made of leather the
fronts will be flexible, and they will, with walking toes within them, take a
semicircular shape (59) for this reason:-the area of a triangle (60) is base
x altitude, and although the shoemaker should place the greatest altitude over the
great toe-nail, the wearer's great toe will find a greater altitude, and more room, in
the middle.
This demonstrates the universal need of a toe-post, or its equivalent, unless,
indeed, the toes are to be encased in a rigid covering.
my
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is
A boot or shoe having :-
1, (a). A toe-post, consisting of a plate large enough to form a lateral bearing
surface against the outer side of the great toe, and high enough to prevent it and
the 2nd toe from overlapping, one the other, yet not so large as to divide the
fore end of the shoe into separate chambers, or to interfere with the flexibility of
the shoe by the form of its elevation, or vertical plan-this, substantially as
described.
(b) The perforation of the plate for the purpose of ventilation and absorption.

page_text: "
(c) The internal angles of the curves near the base of the plate, for securing the
covering materials by means of "buckle-stitches round the edge-and also
the perforation of the plate near the base with stitch-holes, to secure the cover.
(d) The means of holding the plate in a vertical position by fingers between the
insole and the mainsole (or otherwise keeping them in contact with the latter) also
the V slits (reaching beyond the bend of the fingers to prevent their snapping)
which enable the fingers to lie parallel when bent from an arc, which nearly
co-incides with the bearing surface of the great toe on the in-sole; the purpose
of the fingers being to form a narrow plate, or plates, so as not to interfere with
the flexibility of the sole-Also the perforation of the finger-plate under the great
toe, for ventilation and absorption.
2. An equivalent for such a toe-post, made in the manner described, or in
equivalent manner, such as the bent plate, or shaped or moulded materials in
substitution of the same.
3. A revolving thimble covering the end of a screw, for a toe-post, fixed in a
washer between the in-sole and main-sole substantially as described.
4. A toe-post in the form of a butterfly-valve, the plate being prevented from
revolving by means of an eliptical sleeve within it, covering, as the thimble, an
eliptical shaft, of rather less dimensions, forming part of the screw fixed sub-
stantially as described.
5. An equivalent for a toe-post sewn to the "upper" and in-sole substantially
as described.
6. A substitute for a toe-post, consisting of a limp, flexible loop, as described.
7. An equivalent for a toe-post in the form of a double U of elastic material, as
described.
"
8. A toe-post attached to a loose "sock' as described.
9. A toe-post attached to the rubber sole of a tennis-shoe as described.
10. A toe-post attached to a shaped bar, to be worn within the stocking, as
described.
11. The slabs, shaped, bevilled, sized and marked, and placed along the whole
length of the sole in manner described, for the purpose of imparting flexibility in
the right direction (with strength) and for facilitating repair.
12. The same for raising the sole to the level of the heel.
13. The slabs for the support of the arch of the foot, as described, for
policemen.
14. The "front-upper" cut so that the seam meets the waist immediately
behind the heads of the 1st and 5th metatarsals, substantially as, and for the
purposes described.
15. The scoring of the in-sole, and the scoring and impregnating of the clump-
sole, as and for the purposes severally described.
16. The padding and embossing or scoring of the tongue, and the backing of the
front upper, as and for the purposes described.
17. The "lacing-slit " placed over the 1st metatarsal-the waist placed as far as
the outer half of the foot-and the waist-portion of the in-sole bevilled as and for
the purpose described.
18. The lateral extension of the top end of the tongue, or equivalent, and the
same attached, with folds, to the top edge of the shoe as and for the purpose
described.
19. The outer side of the shoe-upper raised so as to protect the ankle bone, in
manner described.
20. The open seam or articulation, and the same lined with the lower extension
of the tongue, or equivalent, and passing from the head of the 1st to that of the
atarsal, for the purpose, and in manner described.
.....
"he front and
22. A
"diced
upper
"
as described for ventilation.
"master-last produced by means of casts cut in sections for the
establishment of average peripheries, and the same, by photographing, as and for
the purposes described.

page_text: 23. The arrangement of the eyelets, the outer in rear of the inner, so as to
work in pairs, as described.
24. The lace with a core of vulcanised rubber attached to the flexible cover as
described.
25. The modifications of the clogger's clasp, as described.
Dated this 12th day of July A.D. 1894.
D. H. SHUTTLEWORTH-BROWN.