IMPROVE- MENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF COVERED BUTTONS, ORNAMENTS, AND FASTENINGS OF WEARING APPAREL
Year: 1842

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, ISAAC
Moss, of Macclesfield, in the County of Cheshire, Silk Trimming and Button
Manufacturer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date at West-
minster, the Thirteenth day of June, in the Fifth year of Her reign, did, for
Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the said Isaac Moss,
Her especial licence, full power, sole privilege and authority, that I, the said
Isaac Moss, my exors, adñors, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Isaac
Moss, my exors, adñors, or assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others,
from time to time and at all times during the term of years therein expressed,
should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within England,
Wales, and the Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, my Invention of "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF COVERED BUTTONS, ORNAMENTS, AND FASTENINGS
OF WEARING APPAREL; in which said Letters Patent is contained a proviso
that I, the said Isaac Moss, shall cause a particular description of the nature
of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be
inrolled in Her said Majesty's High Court of Chancery within six calendar
months next and immediately after the date of the said in part recited Letters
Patent, as in and by the same, reference being thereunto had, will more fully
and at large appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said
Isaac Moss, do hereby declare that the nature of my said Invention, and

page_text: the manner in which the same is to be performed, are fully described and
ascertained in and by the following statement thereof, reference being had to
the Drawing hereunto annexed, and to the figures and letters marked thereon
(that is to say)-
My Invention relates, first, to a mode of constructing covered buttons, and
consists in covering a shell of metal with silk or other suitable fabric, and
enclosing what is called a Leek button, in order to form the shank, by which
means the front surface of the button will consist of a covered shell of metal,
whilst the back will consist of one surface of a Leek button. Figure 1 shews a
section of a covered button constructed according to this part of my Invention;
Figure 2 shews a back view thereof; and Figure 3 shews a Leek button
separately. It is well known that in making Leek buttons, forms or moulds
are used on which the silk or other thread used is lapped, and in this manner
buttons of various patterns have long been made on moulds or forms of
different materials. I prefer to use moulds or forms of pasteboard, but I do not
confine myself thereto, as other proper material may be used. And I make
no claim to the making Leek buttons, or buttons of a similar character, when
separately considered; and it will be seen that the metal shell used is similar
to one of those used when making covered buttons, where the back of the
button is made by the use of a second shell of metal, either having a metal
shank affixed thereto, or having a hole for a tuft of cloth to protrude through
to form the shank. The disc of metal to form the front of the button has its
outer edge turned in the usual manner to make a shell, and this shell is
covered with silk or other material in the usual manner, when the Leek button
or such like covered form or mould is placed into the shell, and the edge of the
shell is to be pressed down in order to enclose the Leek button, which opera-
tion is performed by the usual dies employed in combining the parts of a
covered button when the front and back surfaces have each a metal shell,
as is well understood; and when the edge of the covered shell a has been
caused to close on the Leek button, the button is to be removed into another
die and receive the finishing pressure as heretofore practised when making
other covered buttons. By this mode of manufacturing buttons the back of
each button will be composed of one surface of a Leek button, which at once
will form the shank by which the button is attached, and that back will be
closely covered by lapped threads of which the surfaces of the Leek button is
formed, and the face of the button will be composed of a covered metal
shell a.
I will now describe the second part of my Invention, which relates to a
mode of making shanks for covered buttons, and consists in applying a fabric

page_text: of woven wire. Figure 4 shews a section of a covered button constructed
according to this part of my Invention; Figure 5 shews a plan thereof; and
Figure 6 shews a plan and section of the shank separately. The covered
button; in this instance, may be made in any of the usual modes. The Draw-
ing shews it to be made by two metal shells, the front one being covered, and
the shank b, which is of woven wire cloth, is formed similar to the flexible
shanks heretofore used, as is shewn in the Drawing, and the woven wire shank
protruded through the back shell or collet, as is shewn. The weaving of wire
cloth is open so as to allow the needle and thread passing freely through and
through when fastening buttons to a garment; by this means a much stronger
shank will be obtained than when woven cloth or fibrous yarn is used for
shanks. And I would remark, that, if desired, the wire shank may be covered
with a thin fabric of silk or other cloth, though such is not necessary, or the
wire, before being woven, may be covered with thread or yarn, of silk, cotton,
or other fabrous-material.
I will now describe the third part of my Invention, which relates to a mode of
making buttons of woven wire cloth, the wire employed being first wound round
or covered by silk, cotton, or other fibrous materials before weaving the wire.
Figure 7 shews a plan of a button constructed according to this part of my
Invention; Figure 8 shews a section thereof; and Figure 9 shews a section of
the ring shell used for covering.the edge of the disc of woven covered wire fabric
before the shell is closed on to the edge of the button: c is the metal shell,
and d is a disc of woven covered wire cloth, which fits into the shell, as shewn
at Figure 9. The edge of the ring shell is caused to fold over in the ordinary
manner of folding the edge of a metal shell when making ordinary covered
buttons; and the button is to be finished by being pressed in another die of
the shape of the desired button. These buttons will be suitable for shirts and
other purposes where the needle and thread passes through and through when
fixing it to a garment:
I will now describe the fourth part of my Invention, which relates to an
improvement in the manufacture of that description of covered buttons called
Leek buttons, which consists in applying metal edges thereto, which, in
addition to protecting the edges give ornament to such buttons. Figure 10
shews a Leek-button, the form or mould of which I prefer to be of pasteboard,
and the same may be covered with thread or yarn of silk or other fibrous
material, and lapped according to such device as the manufacturer may think
proper; and the button so madé is to be introduced into a metal ring shell,
the edge of which is then to be closed tightly over the edge of the button.
Figure 11 shews a section of a button so formed. And in some cases I cover

page_text: the ring shell d with a fabric of silk or other material before closing it on the
edge of a Leek button, as is shewn in front view and section at Figure 12;
Fig. 13 representing a back view of the same. And in some cases I make
the metal ring shell of such dimensions as nearly to cover the back, leaving
only an opening for the protruding through of a portion of the back of the
Leek button to form a tuft or shank for fastening the button so made to a
garment, as is shewn in back view at Fig. 14, and if desired the ring shell d
may be covered with silk or other fabric, which in this case should be caused
to adhere to the metal by shellac rendered liquid by naptha, as practised by
hatters, in order that the back covering fabric may hold securely to the
metal where the tilft or shank protrudes through, and in like manner I apply
a metal shell to the edge and back to what are called "sown over" buttons;
which are made by covering a mould or form with a fabric, and and producing
a shank by sewing on the covering.
I will now describe the fifth part of my Invention, which relates to making
covered buttons by dies and pressure, principally intended for the purposes of
upholsterers, and consists in covering the external surface of each button with
leather. In carrying out this part of my Invention I make the buttons in a
similar manner, by dies and pressure, to what is now practised when covering
the face or front part of each button with a woven fabric; but I combine with
the metal shell used to form the front of each button a surface or covering
of leather for the external front surface of each button. Figure 15 shews the
section of a button constructed according to this part of my Invention, the
outer covering e being of leather, which is folded at the edges over the raised
part of the shell, so that when the projecting edge of the shell is closed down
the edge of the leather will be shut in and securely held. This Figure shews
an ordinary flexible tuft of woven fabric, but any suitable metal shank may
be used, and I prefer the woven wire shank before described.
I will now explain the sixth part of my Invention, which relates to a mode.
of forming the backs of covered buttons, and consists in applying prepared
pasteboard or button board for the backs of buttons. In carrying out this
part of my Invention I cover the metal shells forming the fronts of the buttons
with any suitable material, and in place of using a back metal collet or shell
filled with pasteboard or button board, I use only a perforated disc of button
board or pasteboard, but such pasteboard is rendered sufficiently hard by a
suitable preparation, in order to be of such substance that the tuft of woven
fabric used as a shank and passing through the pasteboard shall be securely
held and the button kept in shape by the pasteboard. Figure 16 shews a
section and back view of a button made according to this part of my Inven-

page_text: tion. Figure 17 shews a section and plan of the prepared button board or
pasteboard, having a hole through it for the passage of the tuft of woven
material to form the shank. The button board or pasteboard I prepare is
dipped into linseed oil in a heated state, as has heretofore been practised in
preparing pasteboard and button board for japanners' purposes, and the board
so treated is subjected to considerable pressure, as is well understood; this
preparation of the pasteboard or button board forms no part of my
Invention, and it may be varied so long as the pasteboard or button board is
rendered sufficiently hard. The metal shell to form the front of the button
being covered with suitable material and a proper shank inserted through the
disc of paper board g, Figure 17, the paper board is to be placed into the
shell, and the projecting edge of the metal shell closed thereon, and the button
is then to be finished by suitable dies, such as are now used for giving the
finishing pressure to other constructions of covered buttons, as is well under-
stood. And I would remark, that if desired, the paper board used for such
purposes may be covered with leather, silk, or other fabric at the back, such
covering being affixed thereto by adhesive matter; I prefer shellac dissolved in
naptha, such as is used by hatters. Or in place of so covering the perforated
discs of paper board with woven fabric or leather, it may be covered by
winding on floss silk, or other fibrous material; and in like manner may a
metal collet through which a tuft or shank passes be covered by winding floss
silk or other fibres, so as to cover it, whereby a covered back to a covered
bntton may be produced..
I will now describe the seventh part of my Invention, which relates to a
mode of ornamenting a covered button by applying an open surface of woven
covered wire or woven covered yarn or thread. Figure 18 shews a front
view of a button according to this part of my Invention. Figure 19 being a
section thereof. The button is a covered button, which may be made accord-
ing to any of the means now practised, but in addition thereto an open woven
fabric is applied, by which the under surface or fabric used as a covering to
the front of the button may be seen through; the open fabric applied to the
face or front of the button, and the open fabric so applied is to be made in
one of two ways, either it is to be made of open wire cloth, the wire of which
before weaving has been covered with silk or other fibrous material, and the
covering yarn may, in order to produce ornament, be of various colors, and
the fabric below may be of another color, or the whole may be of one color,
according to taste. The other fabric employed is to be woven from threads of
cotton, silk, or fibrous material, such threads being first covered, as above
described in respect to wire; and circular discs of such open fabric being thus

page_text: formed, they are to be applied and fixed to the surface of a button. I prefer
to do so in the manner shewn at Figures 18 and 19, where a metal ring shell
is used around the edge of the button which combines the various parts
together as is shewn.
I will now describe the eighth part of my Invention, which relates to
another mode of producing an ornamental surface to covered buttons, and
consists of using perforated shells for the fronts or faces of covered buttons.
Figure 20 shews a front view and section of a covered button, according to
this part of my Invention, and Figure 21 shews a front view and section of a
metal shell used in constructing this part of my Invention. The shells used
for the fronts of buttons have perforations according to any desired pattern,
and this improvement consists of covering such shell with silk or other woven
fabric; and I affix such covering to the shell by means of adhesive matter,
preferring shellac dissolved as before described; and in making up the
buttons I place within the shell. a disc or surface of velvet, or other fabric
of the same or different color, with the outer covering material, which
will protrude slightly through the perforated pattern produced by numerous
holes through the metal shell, such holes being of such shapes as taste may
direct.
I will now describe the ninth part of my Invention, which relates to a mode
of covering ornamental drops or parts of fringes which are now covered by
means of lapping on floss silk or other fibrous material. Although the shapes
of these articles of ornament vary in their shapes it will not be necessary to
describe every shape, as the description of one will be sufficient to enable the
workman to cover other shapes. Figure 22 shews a form for a drop or tassel
for fringes, and Figure 23 shews a section, and in place of covering it as here-
tofore by lapping yarn thereon, I use woven fabric as a covering, and I cause
the same to retain the required shape by using adhesive matters, preferring
shellac for that purpose; and in covering the required shape I use a die or
surface having grooves formed therein to correspond with the shape of the
drop, and when the fabric has been placed over the form or drop it is
to be rolled on the grooved plate which is kept heated, which will cause
the fabric to take the form of the mould, or form of the drop, or part of
a tassel, and thus may various woven fabrics be used in covering such articles
of ornament.
I will now describe the tenth part of my Invention, which relates to forming
covered rings for various ornamental purposes in articles of dress and furniture.
In carrying out this part of my Invention I use a ring shell, which I cover
with woven fabric, as is shewn at Figures 24, 25, and 26, which shew the

page_text: section of a ring shell of metal uncovered, and a section of the same shell
covered, and also a covered ring complete, the metal may be covered and the
same fixed by cementing before forming it into a ring by turning down the
edges of the metal; or it may be done by placing both edges into the shell of
metal, and then pressing the edges of the shell together in a suitable die.
I will now describe the eleventh part of my Invention, which relates to
forming covered tags for laces, and for this purpose I cause the metal of which
tags are to be made to be covered on one surface with silk or other woven
fabric by using cementing materials; that which I use is shellac, as before
described, and then I bend the metal into the proper form, and I find
the holding of a tag is greatly improved by also using cement interior of the
tag using heat when the tag is applied to a lace, or I. apply a covering
of woven fabric to a tag after it is formed by applying shellac, and thereby
fixing a portion of fabric on to the tag, or having applied the shellac I
wind round the tag a thread of silk, cotton, or other fibrous material,
which is caused to adhere by using heat. Figure 27 shews a covered tag
applied to a lace.
I will now describe the twelfth part of my Invention, which relates to a
mode of contructing an elastic eye to be used with a hook in fastening parts
of garments. Figure 28 shews one of the elastic eyes, according to this part
of my Invention. Figure 29 shews the eye with a hook applied thereto in the
position the parts would retain when not pulled on with a force to overcome
the elasticity of the side stems of the eye. And Figure 30 shews the eye and a
hook in the position when the strain is such as to have overcome the elasticity
of the stems or sides of the eye; but, whatever be the position, the hook retains
hold of the eye. The eye is so formed that it is affixed to a garment at the
points 9, 9, the stems i, i, crossing each other, as is shewn in Figures
28 and 29, and the hook enters the space between the two stems and hoop,
and holds the eye at the crossing till the strain is such as to overcome
the elasticity of the stems, when the hook will hold in the bent ends h of the
stems, as is clearly shewn in the Drawing.
I will now describe the thirteenth part of my Invention, which relates to a
mode of constructing hooks to be used as hooks and eyes for fastening parts of
garments. Figure 31 shews a hook constructed according to this part of my
5 Invention, and two such hooks are to be used in combination as a hook and
eye, as is shewn at Figure 32. The hooks are to be attached to the parts of
garments at the parts j, j, and by means of each hook having a tongue k, when
they are booked together they will not readily separate, unless they be inclined
to each other, which they are not liable to be when in ordinary wear.

page_text: Figure 33 shews three such hooks combined in this manner.
Other numbers
of similar hooks may be combined and used when required. These hooks
may be either formed of wire or stamped out of metal plate.
and
I will now describe the fourteenth part of my Invention, which relates to an
arrangement or combination of hook and eye. Figure 34 shews this hook
1.eye combined, and Figure 35 .shews the hook separately; the eye is
affixed to a part of a garment at the parts 1, 1, leaving space for the passage of
the projecting head of the hook to pass between the two points of fixture. The
hook will be seen to have a head projecting on either side m of the bent stem,
and the part m entering between the points of fixing of the eye the bent stem
passes into the eye, and thus will the hook be very secure.
.
I will now describe the fifteenth part of my Invention, which relates to a
mode of forming loops to a vest band. Figure 36 shews a vest band,
according to this part of my Invention. n, n, n, are three loops formed
by means of a strongcord, and in like manner other number of loops
may be formed and combined. o. is a plate of sheet tin or other suitable
metal, having a hole for each of the loops to be drawn through, and the
ends of the cord which form the loops n enter notches at the end of the
plate. By this arrangement when the plate is folded together the cord is
securely held in its place, the loops protruding from the folded plate; and in
order securely to hold the loops, I prefer to cement on a piece of fabric before
closing them between the plate o.
I will now describe the sixteenth part of my Invention, which relates to a
mode of forming covered buttons by applying an ornamental fringe. Figure 37
shews a button according to this part of my Invention. In affixing the fringe
a ring shell is employed, and I cement the edge of the fringe to the inside of
the shell used, and then introduce the button into the ring shell and press down
the raised edge of the ring shell, and thus securely fasten the fringe on the
button.
I will now describe the seventeenth part of my Invention, which relates to:
making the hooks and eyes used for fastening parts of garments, and consists
in first covering the wire of which the hooks and eyes are to be formed, and
such covering is performed by means of silk or other fibrous material, in the
manner of gymping, using a suitable cementing material; I prefer shellac, as
before described; and the wire is to be closely covered with the yarn or thread a
of fibrous material, and is then to be cut into lengths, and bent into hooks and
eyes according to any form which may be preferred by the manufacturer, this
part of my Invention not depending on form of hooks and eyes, but of forming
hooks and eyes of wire previously covered.

page_text: Having thus described the nature of my Invention, and the manner in
which the various parts thereof are to be performed, I would have it understood
that I do not confine myself to the precise details, provided the peculiar
character of either part of my Invention be retained. But what I claim is,-
First, the mode of making covered buttons by employing a covered metal
shell for the front of each button, the back of the back of each button being
composed of a Leek button, formed by lapping thread on to a form or mould
as above described in respect to Figures 1, 2, and 3.
Secondly, I claim the mode of constructing covered buttons by employing
woven wire cloth for the shanks, as described in respect to Figures 4, 5, and 6.
Thirdly, I claim the making of buttons of covered wire woven into a fabric,
each button having a metal shell at the outer edge, as described in respect to
Figures 7, 8, and 9.
Fourthly, I claim the mode of constructing Leek or such-like and hand-
covered buttons, by applying metal edges thereto, as described in respect to
Figures 10, 11, 12, 13, and 14.
Fifthly, I claim the combining of a leather covering surface with a metal
shell in a die and pressure-made button, as above described.
Sixthly, I claim the mode of making covered buttons, by forming the back
of each button with pasteboard or button board, the woven shank protruding
therethrough, as above described in respect to Figures 16 and 17. And I
also claim the covering of the paper or metal collet, or back disc, by winding
fibrous materials thereon.
Seventhly, I claim the mode of ornamenting covered buttons by applying
an open woven surface to the fronts of such buttons, when such open fabric is
composed of covered wire or covered yarn, of fibrous materials, as above
described in respect to Figures 18 and 19.
Eighthly, I claim the mode of ornamenting covered buttons by having the
metal shells perforated with many holes and covered with silk or other woven
fabric, as described in respect to Figures 20 and 21.
Ninthly, I claim the mode of covering forms or shapes for ornamental
drops or tassels, as above described in respect to Figures 22 and 23.
Tenthly, I claim the mode of forming covered rings for ornamental purposes,
for furniture and other purposes, as described in respect to Figures 24, 25,
and 26.
Eleventhly, I claim the mode of making tags by covering the same with
woven fabric, or with thread or yarn of fibrous materials and adhesive matter,
as described in respect to Figure 27.
Twelfthly, I claim the mode of constructing eyes to be used with hooks,

page_text: as described in respect to Figures 28, 29, and 30, for fastening parts of
garments.
Thirteenthly, I claim the mode of constructing hooks to act as hooks and
eyes for fastening parts of garments, as described in respect to Figures 31,
32, and 33.
Fourteenthly, I claim the combining the hook and eye described in respect
to Figures 34 and 35, when made by bending wire into the form shewn.
Fifteenthly, I claim the mode of combining loops for vest bands, as described
in respect to Figure 36.
Sixteenthly, I claim the mode of constructing covered buttons by applying 1
ornamental fringe or edging thereto, as described in respect to Figure 37.
Seventeenthly, I claim the mode of making hooks and eyes by forming them
of covered wire, as above described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Isaac Moss, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Twelfth day of December, in the year of our Lord 1
5
as described in respect to Figures 28, 29, and 30, for fastening parts of
garments.
Thirteenthly, I claim the mode of constructing hooks to act as hooks and
eyes for fastening parts of garments, as described in respect to Figures 31,
32, and 33.
Fourteenthly, I claim the combining the hook and eye described in respect
to Figures 34 and 35, when made by bending wire into the form shewn.
Fifteenthly, I claim the mode of combining loops for vest bands, as described
in respect to Figure 36.
Sixteenthly, I claim the mode of constructing covered buttons by applying 1
ornamental fringe or edging thereto, as described in respect to Figure 37.
Seventeenthly, I claim the mode of making hooks and eyes by forming them
of covered wire, as above described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Isaac Moss, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Twelfth day of December, in the year of our Lord 1
One thousand eight hundred and forty-two.
ISAAC (L.s.) MOSS.
AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the Twelfth day of December, in
the year of our Lord 1842, the aforesaid Isaác Moss came before our said
Lady the Queen in Her Chancery, and acknowledged the Specification afore: 2
said, and all and every thing therein contained and specified; in form above
written. And also the Specification aforesaid was stamped according to the
tenor of the Statute made for that purpose.
Enrolled the Thirteenth day of December, in the year of our Lord One