IMPROVEMENTS IN MANUFACTURING TEXTILE FABRICS
Year: 1866

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Adolphe Casse, of the Firm of Jean Casse et Fils,
of the City of Lille, in the French Empire, Manufacturers, for the
Sealed the 16th November 1866, and dated the 21st May 1866.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Adolphe Casse at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 21st
May 1866.
I, ADOLPHE CASSE, of the Firm of Jean Casse et Fils, of the City of Lille,
in the French Empire, Manufacturers, do hereby declare the nature of the
said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN MANUFACTURING TEXTILE FABRICS," to
be as follows:-
The object of my Invention is to produce in bobbin net or guipure machines
a particular fabric with a full ground, that is to say, a cloth specially intended
for tables.
Hitherto bobbin net or guipure machines have only been employed to
manufacture by means of the jacquard mechanism fabrics with designs of
various descriptions, the chief characteristic has been to show or bring up the
designs in contradistinction to the clear or open worked parts, leaving great

page_text: transparency to the fabrics. I have observed that the full parts which form
the heavy portions or designs of the openworked fabric of bobbin net or
guipure constitute a grain or texture capable of giving rise to a fabric which
is full, continuous, easy of production, and will offer resistance and thickness
to the touch. This observation bas led me to manufacture in the bobbin net
or guipure machine a full fabric or cloth of a particular kind, specially
adapted for table cloths. This new fabric or cloth differs by its texture from
the cloth woven in the ordinary loom, because, instead of being produced by a
single shuttle traversing the whole breadth of the fabric, it is produced by a
series of shuttles each having a limited stroke, and it is the sum of the work
of all the shuttles in the same line which constitutes the weft of the whole
breadth of the fabric. Thus in the ordinary loom the fabric is formed by
means of a warp stretched horizontally, and of a shuttle carrying the weft
thread, which it shoots from one side to the other, in order to cross and bind
in all the breadth thereof the series of warp threads at each stroke of the
batten, which presses the threads together and forms the fabric. The shuttle
has therefore a stroke equal to the whole breadth of the fabric, and it is the
same shuttle which throws the same thread the whole breadth of the fabric
without interruption.
For the manufacture of my new cloth I choose in the bobbin net or
guipure machine the grain which forms the heavy or dense portion, the
texture of which appears to me preferable, and instead of limiting the
formation of this grain or full part to the configuration of a design I
produce this grain or portion the whole breadth of the fabric; I continue it
at each action of the machine, and I obtain a continuous fabric, that is to say,
a fabric the whole of which is full and thick. Now as each shuttle of the
guipure machine has only a very limited stroke I appropriate the work so
that all the shuttles in line work at the same time to produce the weaving of
the same line for all the breadth of the fabric, thus there are as many shuttles
as there are warp threads.
It will be understood that my new mode of weaving in full in bobbin net
or guipure machines produces a new fabric, because the weft of my cloth is
formed by the succession of the weaving produced by all the shuttles placed
in the same line in contradistinction to ordinary weaving, in which the same
shuttle traverses the whole breadth of the fabric.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Adolphe Casse in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 19th
November 1866.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, ADOLPHE
CASSE, of the Firm of Jean Casse et Fils, of the City of Lille, in the French
Empire, Manufacturers, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-first day of May, in the year of our Lord.
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-six, in the twenty-ninth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me,
the said Adolphe Casse, Her special licence that I, the said Adolphe
Casse, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the
said Adolphe Casse, my exccutors, administrators, and assigns, should at
any time agree with, and no others, from time to time, and at all times
thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might
make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain
and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IM-
PROVEMENTS IN MANUFACTURING TEXTILE FABRICS," upon the condition (amongst
others) that I, the said Adolphe Casse, my executors or administrators, by
an instrument in writing uuder my, or their, or one of their hands and seals,
should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention,
and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to
be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and
immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Adolphe Casse, do hereby declare
the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the fol-
lowing statement thereof, that is to say :-
The object of my Invention is to produce in bobbin net or guipure machines
a particular fabric with a full ground, that is to say, a cloth specially intended
for tables and for toilet covers.
Hitherto bobbin net or guipure machines have only been employed to
manufacture by the aid of the jacquard mechanism fabrics with designs of
various descriptions, the chief characteristic has been to show or bring up the
designs in contradistinction to the clear or open worked parts, leaving great

page_text: transparency to the fabrics. I have observed that the full parts which form
the heavy portions or designs of the open worked fabric of bobbin net or
guipure constitute a grain or texture capable of giving rise to a fabric which
is full, continuous, easy of production, and will offer resistance and thickness
to the touch. This observation has led me to manufacture in the bobbin net
or guipure machine a full fabric or cloth of a particular kind, specially
adapted for table cloths or toilet covers. This new full fabric or cloth
produced in a bobbin net or guipure machine differs by its texture from the
cloth woven in the ordinary loom, because, instead of being produced by a
single shuttle traversing the whole breadth of the fabric, it is produced by a
series of shuttles, each having a limited stroke, and it is the sum of the work
of all the shuttles in the same line which constitutes the weft of the whole
breadth of the fabric. Thus in the ordinary loom the fabric is formed by
means of a warp stretched horizontally, and of a shuttle carrying the weft
thread, which it shoots from one side to the other, in order to cross and bind
in all the breadth thereof the series of warp threads at each stroke of the
batten, which presses the threads together and forms the fabric. The shuttle
has therefore a stroke equal to the whole breadth of the fabric, and it is the
same shuttle which throws the same thread the whole breadth of the fabric
without interruption.
For the manufacture of my new cloth I choose in the bobbin net or
guipure machine the grain which forms the heavy or dense portion (måt),
the texture of which appears to me preferable, and instead of limiting the
formation of this grain or full part to the configuration of a design, I
produce this grain or portion the whole breadth of the fabric; I continue
it at each action of the machine, and I obtain a continuous fabric, that
Now as each
is to say, a fabric the whole of which is full and thick.
shuttle of the guipure machine has only a very limited stroke, I appropriate
the work so that all the shuttles in line work at the same time to produce the
weaving of the same line for all the breadth of the fabric, thus there are as
many shuttles as there are threads to the warp.
It will be understood that my new mode of weaving in full in bobbin net
or guipure machines produces a new fabric, because the weft of my cloth is
formed by the succession of the weaving produced by all the shuttles placed
in the same line in contradistinction to ordinary weaving, in which the same
shuttle traverses the whole breadth of the fabric.
And having now described the nature of my said Invention, and in what
manner the same is to be performed, I declare that I claim, manufacturing in

page_text: bobbin net or guipure machines textile fabrics having a full continuous
ground, substantially in the manner described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Adolphe Casse, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, the Twenty-sixth day of October, One thousand eight
hundred and sixty-six.
Witness,
CH. ARMENGAUD,
Civil Engineer,
Boulevard de Strasbourg, 23,
à Paris.
A. CASSE. (LS.)