IMPROVEMENTS IN POWER LOOMS FOR WEAVING HAIR CLOTH AND FABRICS IN WHICH THE WEFT IS INSERTED IN SEPARATE LENGTHS OF MATERIAL
Year: 1863

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to George Tomlinson Bousfield, of Loughborough Park;
Brixton, in the County of Surrey, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS
IN POWER LOOMS FOR WEAVING HAIR CLOTH AND FABRICS IN WHICH THE WEFT
IS INSERTED IN SEPARATE LENGTHS OF MATERIAL."-A communication from
abroad by Charles Bradley, residing at Providence, Rhode Island, in
the United States of America.
Sealed the 15th March 1864, and dated the 21st September 1868.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said George Tomlinson Bousfield
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
21st September 1868.
İ, GEORGE TOMLINSON BOUSFIELD; of Loughborough Park, Brixton, in the
County of Surrey, do hereby declare the nature of the Invention for "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN POWER LOOMS FOR WEAVING HAIR CLOTH AND FABRICS IN WHICH THE
WEFT IS INSERTED IN SEPARATE LENGTHS OF MATERIAL," to be as follows:-
The Invention is applicable where an automatic mechanical device is
employed which will, select a single hair or length of weft during a. single beat
of the lathe, and hold it in the proper position to be seized by the nipper or
device used to insert the same in the open shed of the warp with a sufficient
A

page_text: degree of certainty to enable the operation of weaving to continue uninter-
ruptedly, although parts of the improvements constituting this Invention are
applicable in case the separate hair or length of weft is selected and presented
in the requisite position by the human hand. The hairs or lengths of weft are
confined and compressed in a body at one end, and by means of a notched and
bevilled pointed lance a single hair or length of weft is selected and lifted from
among the compressed ends, and with the assistance of a yielding pad, serving
to hold the selected hair in the notch of the said lance, the said hair is held
by its end in a vertical position to be seized by the nipper, which inserts it in
the open shed of the warp.
The present Invention comprises the following improvements :-
First, the construction and method of operating the nipper or device used to
insert the lengths of weft in the warp, in order to insure the certain seizure of
the hair without severing, crushing, or otherwise injuring the same, and the
means employed to reciprocate the said nipper or other device performing its
function between the open sheds of the warp, to avoid undue momentum
arising from its rapid movements to and fro are as follows:-I form one jaw
of the nipper with two projecting pegs or their equivalent, which enter the
opposite jaw thereof in closing, and between which the hair is seized and
enclosed beyond the possibility of escape, and by arresting the complete closing
of the nipper by means of a set screw or stop against the point of which
the part by which the moveable jaw is actuated bears until with the
retreating movement of the nipper it slides off the said point and permits the
spring force of the moveable jaw to simply press upon the hair with sufficient
firmness to hold it securely between the said jaws while it is being drawn into
the open shed of the warp, and for the accomplishment of the latter mentioned
result I make use of a tough yet light wooden nipper staff, which is made to
slide to and fro in suitable guides formed in the lathe beam by means of a
strap or band passing over a system of fixed and moveable pulleys, the latter
with the two ends of the said strap or band being attached to the loose ends
of the treadle levers, which are operated by revolving cams on the cam shaft
in the usual way.
The second improvement consists in the method of operating and controlling
the several sets of heddles, in order to open the succeeding sheds with an
instantaneous movement, for the purpose of giving the nipper and other parts
dependent upon such action ample time and space to perform their respective
functions during the single beat of the lathe; and in so controlling the action
of the said heddles that they shall remain at rest unchanged and wholly
disconnected from the moving parts of the loom with the last shed still open

page_text: until by reason and as a consequence of the seizure of a hair or length of the
weft by the nipper, and of the drawing of the same into the open shed a
connection is effected between the device, which operates the several sets of
heddles and the source of motion by which the device is actuated to open
the succeeding shed of the warp preparatory to the insertion of the succeeding
hair or length of weft.
The first-mentioned desirable result is accomplished by means of a cam on
the main shaft of the loom, which by about one-third of a revolution of said
shaft imparts a sufficient movement to a swinging hook to produce by its
engagement with one of five equidistant tappets of a tappet wheel, one-
fifth of a revolution of a shaft carrying five disc-like cams, each of which
actuates one of five upright swinging levers, to each of the opposite ends of
which the five 'sets of heddles are connected by bands passing over suitable
pulleys arranged above and beneath the same, and by means of which levers
the requisite movement is imparted to the said heddles to open the five sheds
(commonly used in weaving hair cloth) in regular succession during the afore-
said one-third of the one revolution of the main shaft which produces a single
beat of the lathe.
In order that the extent of the change produced by the above specified
mechanisin may be fully understood and determined 1 will here state that
heretofore the said shaft carrying the five cams has been driven through the
medium of a pair of bevil gears from the treadle cam shaft, which has a speed
of but one revolution to two of the said main shaft, and as one-third of a
revolution of the main shaft is only necessary with this Invention to open a
shed, it will be seen that supposing the said bevil gears to be of equal size with
the arrangements of the parts above described, the shed is opened in one-sixth
of the time occupied by the old method.
The latter mentioned desirable result, that of controlling the action of the
several sets of heddles, is accomplished by withholding the above-mentioned
swinging hook from engaging with the tappets of the tappet wheel by an
arrangement of arms upon a rocker shaft, a wedge. and a lever actuated by a
cam on the main shaft, the whole being controlled by the drop wire in such a
manner that in the event of a failure of the nipper to draw a hair into the
open shed the action of the lever is arrested by the falling of the drop wire, the
swinging hook is withdrawn from engaging with the tappets, and hence no
connection takes place; on the contrary, if a hair is drawn into the open shed
it trips the drop wire, which disengages the lever and rocker shaft, and permits
the swinging hook to engage with the tappets, and open the succeeding shed
of the wa
1

page_text: The third improvement consists in the method of operating the heddles
which open the succeeding sheds of the selvage threads to provide against the
formation of an undue length of loop next to the selvage, which would other-
wise occur in repeating the number of changes, and give the cloth an uneven
and loose appearance at the selvage. A peculiar arrangement of the cams is
employed which operate the selvage heddles, whereby with each repetition of
the changes of the heddles, the same selvage shed is held open during
the insertion of two bairs or lengths of weft, which are thus bound within the
same selvage thread, for the purpose of shortening the loop formed by the
change between the selvage, and the main portion of the fabric.
The fourth improvement consists in the combination and arrangement of
the "let-off" mechanism with the "take-up " mechanism, whereby both are
operated and controlled from the same source of motion at each beat of the
lathe to produce an equal movement in each mechanism, and an uniform
progressive movement of the warp in its passage from the yarn beam to the
cloth beam is obtained. The warps from the yarn beam are drawn by means
of a pair of pressure rollers constituting the "let-off" device, between and
around which the warp passes, thence over the breast beam, and the warp is
delivered to another pair of pressure rollers constituting the "take-up"
device between and around which the warp passes, and thence to the cloth
beam.
.
"
In weaving hair cloth the lengths of hair are moistened before being inserted
in the warp, and the said hair in drying is liable to shrink and become curved
in the cloth instead of lying straight and at right angles with the threads of
the warp.
The fifth improvement, therefore, consists in giving a curved shape to the
reed calculated to counteract the curvature of the woven hair produced by its
shrinking in drying.
The sixth improvement consists in the employment of a stop or suitable
device for arresting the further operation of the automatic mechanism used to
select the separate lengths of hair or other weft, and present the same to the
open nipper to prevent the nipper as it advances to seize the hair from coming
in contact with the said mechanism, and injuring the same.
The said stop
consisting of a lever or ratchet, which is thrown up at the completion of the
forward beat of the lathe, and thereby made to engage with a notched disc on
the shaft which actuates the device used to select the separate lengths of weft,
and prevent the same from revolving.
The seventh improvement consists in the employment of a suitable clipping
device operated by the beating movement of the lathe, to clip the straggling

page_text: mass of the bunch of hair or other weft to prevent said ends from interfering:
with the operation of the contiguous parts of the machine.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said George Tomlinson Bousfield in the Great Seal Patent Office
on the 21st March 1864.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, GEORGE.
TOMLINSON BOUSFIELD, of Loughborough Park, Brixton, in the County of
Surrey, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters.
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-first day of September, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-three, in the twenty-seventh year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the
said George Tomlinson Bousfield, Her special licence that I, the said George
Tomlinson Bousfield, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others
as I, the said George Tomlinson Bousfield, my executors, administrators, and.
assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at-
all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully
might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for
"IMPROVEMENTS IN POWER LOOMS FOR WEAVING HAIR CLOTH AND FABRICS IN WHICH.
THE WEFT IS INSERTED IN SEPARATE LENGTHS OF MATERIAL," a communication to.
me from abroad by Charles Bradley, a person resident at Providence, Rhode-
Island, in the United States of America, upon the condition (amongst others) that.
I, the said George Tomlinson Bousfield, my executors or administrators, by an:
instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals,.
should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention,
and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be
filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and
immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said George Tomlinson Bousfield, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is
to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the.
following statement thereof, that is to say :-
The Invention berein-after set forth presupposes the existance of an automatic
mechanical device which will select a single hair or length of weft during a

page_text: single beat of the lathe and hold it in the proper position to be seized by the
nipper or device used to insert the same in the open shed of the warp with
a sufficient degree of certainty to enable the operation of weaving to continue
uninterruptedly, although the several improvements constituting this Invention
are equally serviceable in case the separate hair or length of weft is selected
and presented in the requisite position by the human hand. As a suitable and
efficient mechanical device for the selecting and presenting the selected hair
or length of the weft to the nipper or other device used, I use an apparatus
the distinctive features of which are that the hairs or lengths of weft are
confined and compressed in a body at one end and by means of a notched and
bevelled pointed lance, a single hair or length of weft is selected and lifted
from among the compressed ends, and with the assistance of a yielding pad
serving to hold the selected hair in the notch of the said lance, the said hair
is held by its end in a vertical position to be seized by the nipper which inserts
it in the open shed of the warp. The Invention comprises the following
improvements :-
First, the construction and method of operating the nipper or device used
to insert the lengths of weft in the warp in order to ensure the certain seizure
of the hair without severing, crushing, or otherwise injuring the same, and the
means employed to reciprocate the said nipper or other device performing its
functions between the open sheds of the warp to avoid undue momentum
arising from its rapid movements to and fro: For the accomplishment of the
former desirable result, I form one jaw of the nipper with two projecting pegs
or their equivalent which enter the opposite jaw thereof in closing, and between
which the hair is seized and enclosed beyond the possibility of escape, and by
arresting the complete closing of the nipper by means of a set screw against
the point of which the part by which the moveable jaw is actuated bears
until with the retreating movement of the nipper it slides off said point and
permits the spring force of the moveable. jaw to simply press upon the hair
with sufficient firmness to hold it securely between the said jaws while it is
being drawn into the open shed of the warp, aud for the accomplishment of the
latter mentioned result I make use of a tough yet light wooden nipper staff
which is made to slide to and fro in suitable guides formed in the lathe beam
by means of a strap or band passing over a system of fixed and moveable
pulleys, the latter with the two ends of the said strap or band being attached
to the loose ends of the treadle levers which are operated by revolving cams
on the cam shaft in the usual way.
The second improvement consists in the method of operating and controlling
the several sets of heddles in order to open the succeeding sheds with an instan-

page_text: taneous movement for the purpose of giving the nipper and other parts
dependent upon such action ample time and space to perform their respective
functions during the single beat of the lathe, and in so controlling the action
of the said heddles that they shall remain at rest unchanged and wholly
disconnected from the moving parts of the loom with the last shed still
open until by reason and as a consequence of the seizure of a bair or length
of the weft by the nipper and of the drawing of the same into the open shed
a connection is effected between the device which operates the several sets of
heddles and the source of motion by which the device is actuated to open the
succeeding shed of the warp preparatory to the insertion of the succeeding hair
or length of weft.
The first-mentioned desirable result is accomplished by means of a cam on
the main shaft of the loom which with one-third of a revolution of said
shaft imparts a sufficient movement to a swinging hook to produce by its
engagement with one of five equidistant tappets of a tappet wheel, one-fifth
of a revolution of a shaft carrying five disc-like cams, each of which actuates
one of five upright swinging levers, to each of the opposite ends of which the
five sets of heddles are connected by bands passing over suitable pulleys arranged
above and beneath the same, and by means of which levers the requisite
movement is imparted to the said heddles to open the five sheds (commonly
used in weaving hair cloth,) in regular succession during the aforesaid one-third
of the one revolution of the main shaft which produces a single beat of the
lathe.
In order that the extent of the change produced by the above specified
mechanism may be fully understood and determined, I will here state that
heretofore the said shaft carrying the five cams has been driven through the
medium of a pair of bevil gears from the treadle cam shaft which has a speed
of but one revolution to two of the said main shaft, and as one-third of a
revolution of the main shaft is only necessary with this improvement to open
a shed it will be seen that supposing the said bevil gears to be of equal size
with the arrangements of the parts above described, the shed is opened in one-
sixth of the time occupied by the old method.
The latter mentioned desirable result, that of controlling the action.of the
several sets of heddles, is accomplished by withholding the above mentioned
swinging hook from emerging with the tappets of the tappet wheel by an
arrangement of arms upon a rocker shaft, a wedge and a lever actuated by a
cam on the main shaft, the whole being controlled by the drop wire in such
a manner that in the event of a failure of the nipper to seize and draw a
hair into the open shed, the action of the lever is arrested by the falling of the

page_text: drop wire, the swinging hook is withdrawn from engaging with the tappets,
and hence no connection takes place; on the contrary if a hair is drawn into
the open shed it trips the drop wire which disengages the lever and rocker shaft
and permits the swinging hook to engage with the tappets and open the
succeeding shed of the warp.
The third improvement consists in the method of operating the heddles
which open the succeeding sheds of the selvage threads to provide against the
formation of an undue length of loop next to the selvage, which would other-
wise occur in repeating the number of changes, and give the cloth an uneven
and loose appearance at the selvage. This object is accomplished by means of
a peculiar arrangement of the cams, which operate the selvage heddles, whereby
with each repetition of the changes of the heddles, the same selvage shed is
held open during the insertion of two hairs or lengths of weft, which are thus
bound within the same selvage thread for the purpose of shortening the loop
formed by the change between the selvage and the main portion of the
fabric.
The fourth improvement consists in the combination and arrangement of
the "let-off" mechanism with the "take-up" mechanism, whereby both are
operated and controlled from the same source of motion at each beat of the
lathe to produce an equal movement in each mechanism, and an uniform
progressive movement of the warp in its passage from the yarn beam to the
cloth beam, in order to avoid the excessive tension of the warp, and for other
purposes. This is accomplished by drawing the warp from the yarn beam by
means of a pair of pressure rollers constituting the "let-off" device, between
and around which the warp passes, thence over the breast beam, and is
delivered to another pair of pressure rollers, constituting the "take-up" device,
between and around which the warp passes, and thence to the cloth beam.
The lengths of hair are moistened before being inserted in the warp, and the
said hair in drying is liable to shrink and become curved in the cloth instead
of lying straight and at right angles with the threads of the warp.
The fifth improvement consists in giving a shape to the reed calculated to
counteract the curvature of the woven hair produced by its shrinking in
drying.
The sixth improvement consists in the employment of a stop or suitable
device for arresting the further operation of the automatic mechanism used to
select the separate lengths of hair or other weft, and present the same to the
open nipper to prevent the nipper as it advances to seize the hair from coming
in contact with the said mechanism and injuring the same. The said stop
consisting of a lever or ratchet, which is thrown up at the completion of the

page_text: forward beat of the lathe, and thereby made to engage with a notched disc on
the shaft which actuates the device used to select the separate lengths of weft,
and prevent the same from revolving.
The seventh improvement consists in the employment of a suitable clipping
device operated by the beating movement of the lathe to clip the straggling
ends of the bunch of hair or other weft, to prevent said ends from interfering
with the operation of the contiguous parts of the machine.
In order that the nature and extent of the said Invention may be fully
understood, I will proceed to describe the same, reference being had to the
accompanying Drawings, and to the letters of reference marked thereon which
form a part of this Specification, in which Plate 1, Figures 1 and 2, are
perspective views of the said machine, showing the general arrangement of the
parts thereof. Plate 2, Figures 1 and 2, are perspective views of the said
machine, shewing the general arrangement of the parts at the reverse end of
the same. Plate 3, Figure 1, is a perspective view of the said nipper, and the
devices by which it is opened and closed at the proper time, shewing the nipper
in the position of seizing the hair; Plate 3, Figure 2, is a perspective view of
the same nipper and devices, showing the former in the position of releasing
the hair after having drawn it into the warp; Plate 4, Figure 1, is a full size
plan of the said nipper; Figure 2 is a section of the same, shewing fully its
construction; Figure 3 is a full size plan of the device, which opens and closes
the said nipper in the act of seizing the hair; Figure 4 is an end elevation of
the same; Figure 5 is a full size plan of the device, which opens the nipper in
the act of releasing the hair when it has been drawn into the warp; Figure 6
is an end elevation of the same. Plate 5, Figure 1, is an end elevation of the
frame of the machine, and of those parts which impart the required movement
to the nipper for the insertion of the weft in the warp; Figure 2 is a front
elevation of the same; Figure 3 represents the nipper in the act of seizing
the selected hair as it is held up by the lance k for the purpose. Plate 6,
Figure 1, is an end elevation of the frame of the machine, and of those parts
which operate and control the action of the several sets of heddles; Figures
2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 are details which are referred to as the description proceeds.
Plate 7, Figure 1, is a front elevation of the frame, and those parts of the
machine which operate and control the selvage threads of the warp; Figures
2 and 3 are details of the same, illustrating the successive changes of the
several sets of heddles; Figure 4 is a plan of a portion of the lathe, and of the
curved reed R therein. Plate 8, Figure 1, is an end elevation of the frame of
the machine and of the "let-off" and "take-up" devices, their connections
and means by which they are operated; Figure 2 is an elevation of the reverse

page_text: end of the same parts and their connections. Plate 9, Figures 1 and 2,
represent the device used to arrest the operation of the lance or device used
to select the hair or length of weft at the proper time, as herein-after specified;
Figures 3 and 4 represent the device used to trim off the projecting ends of
the bunch or mass of hair which may escape from their confinement by the
repeated action of the lance or from any other cause. Similar letters of
reference indicate corresponding parts in all the several Plates and Figures.
As many parts of this hair cloth power loom do not differ in any essential
particular from looms of ordinary construction for weaving other kinds of
fabrics, I shall in the following description mention in general terms parts
which are common and well known in looms, while I particularize more fully
those parts which by their combined action form the means of carrying into
effect the Invention.
In the accompanying Drawings B is the frame of the loom, B' being the
arch from which the several sets of heddles f¹‚ƒ³‚ƒ³‚ƒ“‚ƒ³‚Ì', g³, are sus-
pended, as shewn in Plates I., II., VII.; G is the lathe which receives its
vibrating movements from the cranks b, b, on each end of the main shaft D ;
F is the cam shaft, which is driven with a speed of 1 revolution to 2 revolu-
tions of the main shaft D by means of the gears on each, as seen in Plate II.;
C is the yarn beam; E, the cloth beam, all of which parts are of the usual
construction.
I will now proceed to describe the nipper I fully shewn in Plates III.,
IV., and V. The said nipper is constructed as shewn in Figures 1 and 2 of
Plate IV., with two tapering jaws i, i', one of which is moveable on the pivot e
by the projection & thereon sliding against an inclined surface against the force
of the spring b¹, Plate IV., Figure 2; the other jaw is stationary, and its
shank surrounds and is firmly rivetted through and through to the wooden
nipper staff J, and it will be perceived that the side of the shank at a is
rounded, and that the end thereof is curved at an angle and let into the wood,
and that the corner at a' is covered and protected by a plate c², which forma-
tion has been especially devised for the purpose of preventing the wood from
wearing away next to the said metal shank from the continuous rapid move-
ments of the nipper between the open sheds of the warp, and to prevent the
nipper from catching and breaking the threads of the warp in its passage
through them. In the moveable jaw are inserted two pegs t, t, about half an
inch asunder, which pegs enter two cavities in the fixed jaw as shewn. These
pegs serve to prevent the selected hair from escaping after the nipper closes in
the act of seizing the same, as will presently be explained. E and L are the
nipper boxes, which operate and control the moveable jaw of the nipper; the

page_text: former H consists of a cast-iron shell H, Plates III. and IV., having arranged
upon one side a friction roller 2 in a swinging arm 3, and adjusted to give the
requisite opening to the nipper by the two set screws 4; upon the opposite side.
of said shell is arranged a swinging wedge k¹ upon the pivot 5 and a set screw 6
protruding through from the outside of the shell, with its point next to the.
head of the said wedge; the office of the said wedge is to depress the pro-
jection d to open the nipper in the act of seizing the hair, and the office of the
protruding point of the said set screw is to arrest the complete closing of the
nipper, and thereby prevent the crushing of the hair thus seized. The nipper
box L serves to open the nipper and release the hair after drawing it fully,
through the open shed, and to this end it is provided with a friction roller 2,
arranged and adjusted in like manner with that just described, and a stationary
wedge 7 forming one side of the said box, which is of cast iron like the box H..
These nipper boxes are situated on the bed of the lathe in the pathway.
traversed by the nipper respectively, as shewn in Plate V., Figure 2, in the.
proper position with respect to the warp to admit and ensure the performance.
of their respective functions. The lathe G extends over the frame upon the
right-hand side to a sufficient length to accommodate the requisite length of:
the nipper staff, Plate V., Figure 2, and is framed with longitudinal guides 8, 5,
between which the nipper staff slides to and fro, the sliding movement being
limited by the block c on the nipper staff striking against the stops n, n, on
the said guides. The sliding movement of the nipper staff is effected by means
of the strap h, which is attached to the under side of the nipper staff directly:
beneath the block c, and extends in opposite directions longitudinally, passing.
over the friction wheels v, v, in the under side of the lathe, thence over the.
two sets of fixed pulleys o, o', and moveable pulleys p, p, the latter, together -
with the two ends of the said strap, being attached to the ends of the treadle.
levers R', R', swinging vertically in guides ; upon fixed pivots on the opposito.
side of the frame by motion proceeding from the revolving cams », r, on the r
cam shaft F, Figure 1. There are two fixed pulleys o, and three fixed,
pulleys o¹, and two of each of the moveable pulleys p, p, and it will be seen
that by means of this arrangement of fixed and moveable pulleys the swinging.
distance of the two treadle levers is multiplied when transmitted through the
strap h to a nipper staff without creating any excessive momentum beyond the
power of the friction (produced by the sliding uipper staff and otherwise) to
suppress and control. Before proceeding further with this description, it.
should be here stated that it has been found important in practice that the
nipper staff should be as light as possible, and that everything calculated to.
create an undue momentum in the nipper staff' should be avoided.

page_text: Having thus described the construction and arrangement of the said nipper,
and its appliances for operating and controlling the same, the operation is as
follows:-
With the nipper in the position shewn in Plate V, Figure 2, as having
released the hair as shewn in Plate III., Figure 2, by a continued revolution
of the cam shaft F, Plate V., Figure 1, in the direction indicated by arrows,
the cam depresses the treadle lever R', and through the medium of the
strap h and pulleys o and p transmits motion to the nipper, carrying it through
the open shed of the warp and into the nipper box H, when the projection d
on the moveable jaw slides against the inclined surface of the swinging
wedge k¹, thereby causing the said jaw to open and receive the selected hair =
where presented in the manner shewn in Figure 3 between the pegs t, t, as
shewn, the projection slides from the head of the wedge k' and strikes imme-
diately against the point of the set screw 6, which is so adjusted as to permit
the moveable jaw to close upon the hair without actually pressing it; when
the movement of the nipper is reversed the nipper recedes, and in so doing
the projection d slides off the point of the set screw, thereby causing the move-
able jaw to seize the hair firmly, the wedge ¹ swings aside, and the hair thus
seized is drawn into the warp until the projection d meets and slides against
the wedge 7, which opens the nipper, and releases the hair when it is beat up
by the reed in the usual way. It is obvious that if the nipper should be
closed upon the hair with the full force of the spring which actuates the
moveable jaw, the hair would immediately be crushed and severed, and it is
for the purpose of avoiding this casualty, that I first closed the nipper suffi-
ciently to encompass and secure the hair beyond the possibility of escape, and
with the retreating movement of the nipper remove the restraint before
imposed upon the spring which actuates the nipper, and thus permits the hair
to be compressed and forcibly seized, and it is this peculiar mode of operation
which enables me to seize the hair surely and without injury, and thereby
ensure the successful operation of the nipper.
I will next proceed to describe that part of the mechanism which relates to
the method of operating and controlling the action of the several sets of heddles,
in doing which reference will be had to Plates I., II., VI., and VII., in which
ƒ³‚ƒ³‚ ƒ³‚ ƒ³‚ƒ³‚ g', g³, are the heddles, the latter (9' and 9º) being the selvage
heddles are more particularly described under another head. Hair cloth is
commonly woven with five sheds, and there are five heddles, each of which
opens a distinct shed in regular succession. These heddles are operated by
the levers N¹, N2, N3, N, N³, swinging on the common fulcrum pin 4, and the
cams V, V, V, V, V, being connected with both ends of the said levers N,

page_text: by suitable bands passing over the pullies in the arch above, and corre-
sponding pullies attached to the cross pieces B³ beneath the said heddles as
shewn in Plate 1, Figures 1 and 2. The said levers N and can V are formed
as shewn in Figure 6, Plate VI., the latter being arranged on the cam shaft x
as shewn in Figure 1. The cams have a projection a³ on one side of the
periphery thereof, which in revolving in the direction indicated by the arrows,
slides against the inclined surface of the lever N, and swings the upper
end of the same to the position shewn in the dotted lines to open a shed of
the warp, and the rounded corner of the cam at es slides against the inclined
surface n of the lever N, and returns the opposite end of the same to the
position in which it is shewn to close the shed. The said cams are arranged
on the cam shaft & with respect to each other in the order required for opening
the sheds in their proper order. The action of each cam to impart the requisite
movement to its lever is produced by one-fifth of a revolution of the cam shaft *.
The arrangement of cams and levers above described it should be under-
stood forms no part of the Invention, the same having been previously used
for this purpose in looms for weaving woollen and other fabrics, and in some
instances for weaving hair cloth, but in every instance within my knowledge
the cam shaft & has been revolved by motion transmitted through the medium
of a pair of bevel gears from the cam shaft F, and although this mode of
revolving the said cams is without objection in woollen looms and others using
a continuous weft of flexible material, inserted with each to-aud-fro movement
of a shuttle, it is unsuitable, and wholly insufficient as a means for operating
the same cams in air cloth looms wherein two movements of the nipper or
device which performs the functions of a shuttle are necessary for the insertion
of one length of weft of hair or other material, in consequence of which it is
especially necessary to open and close the successive sheds with at least twice the
rapidity compared with that required in using a shuttle and a continuous weft.
To accomplish this purpose, I employ a cam¹ on the main shaft D as the
source of motion, which, with about one-third of a revolution imparts a suffi-
cient vertical movement to a swing hook w, Figures 1, 3, 4, and 5, engaging
with one of five tappets y, y, of the tappet wheel X on the cam shaft & to turn
said shaft and cams one-fifth of a revolution, and thereby open the successive
sheds of the warp, with one-third of a revolution of the main shaft D, and
one-third of a full beat of the lathe, or in one-sixth of the time occupied by the
arrangement heretofore used for the purpose, supposing the pair of bevil gears
which drive the cam shaft a to be of equal size. The operations of the
heddles f, f, &c., are controlled in a manner to make the opening of each
succeeding shed dependent on the seizure and insertion of a hair in the pre-

page_text: -ceding one by means of the drop wire a' engaging with the upright arm e' on
the lever m², vibrating on the pivot s³, with a positive movement from the cam 23
on the main shaft to raise and fall a wedge b2 at its opposite end, the inclined
*surface of said wedge sliding against a stud t² in the arm W of the rocker shaft n',
imparting thereto a sufficient rocking movement to cause the arm ³ to with-
draw the hook w from engaging with the tappets y, with the raising of the
said wedge as shown in Figure 3 (Plate VI.), and to allow the said hook
to engage with the tappets y, with the falling of the said wedge as shown
in Figures 2 and 4. The first condition of the said drop wire a', arm e*,
lever m², cam 23, wedge 62, arms W and h³, on the rocker shaft, and the hook w
being fully shown in Figure 1, Plate VI., and Figure 2, Plate I., the position
of the wedge 63, and latter mentioned parts, with the tappet and tappet wheel,
being fully shown in Figure 3, in which it will be seen that the fall of the drop
wire a into the position shown in Figure 1, causes the pointed end of its lever
to catch the end of the arm e' of the lever m³ when it is released by the cam ¹³,
and returns by the action of the spring 0%, in consequence of which the wedge.
is held in the position shown in Figure 3, swinging the rocker arms W
and 2 in the position shewn, the latter withdrawing the hook w from
engaging with the tappet y', thus causing the tappet wheel and the cams to
remain wholly disconnected from the source of motion (the cam 2) by which the
same are actuated, and the heddles to remain at rest and unchanged. The
second condition of the drop wire a and its connections, which results from
the seizure and drawing of the length of weft into the open shed is fully
illustrated in Plate I., Figure 1, and Plate VI., Figures 2 and 4. In this
case the drawing of the hair or other weft past the wire a, causes said hair to
trip, and lift the drop wire a' with the return beat of the lathe, thereby pre-
venting the end of the drop wire lever from catching the end of the arm e',
which instead falls under the projection on the end of said arm e as shown,
thereby allowing the said arm to swing forward, the wedge to fall as shown
in Figure 4, the arms W and h³ to swing into the position shown, and the
hook w to engage with the tappet y', whereby a connection is effected between
the cam (the source of motion) and the tappet wheel X and cams V, V, &c.,
which operate the heddles f through the medium of the levers N, to open the
succeeding shed of the warp preparatory to the insertion of the succeeding hair
or length of weft.
I will next proceed to describe the parts which operate the selvage threads
of the warp, the same being fully illustrated by Figures 1, 2, and 3 of
Plate VII. In Figures 1 and 2, 9, 9, are the selvage heddles, the same
being suspended by suitable bands 12, 13, from the opposite sides of the

page_text: rolls S, S, so that when one of the said heddles 9 is elevated, the other g¹ is
depressed in the usual way. The heddles are connected by suitable bands 1, 1,
to the levers u, v, swinging on the common pivot u by motion imparted from the
cams, 2, 3, 4, of the cam wheel M on the cam shaft a, which is revolved by
the engagement of the hook w with the tappets y, y, &c., of the tappet wheel X,
as just above described, each engagement of said hook giving the said cam M
one-fifth of a revolution, causing the said cams r to depress the two levers v, v,
and their respective heddles alternately, as shewn in the several changes of the
Diagram, Figure 2, thereby forming the selvage of short loops, which has the
effect to bind the ends of the hair or other weft more closely and firmly than
in the body of the fabric which is required in hair cloth, and fabrics of a similar
character, to give permanence and stability to the goods, and to fasten the same
by when used for upholstery purposes.
The difference between the length of the selvage loops S², and those of the
warp W, is fully shown in Figure 3, in which the loops of hair are represented
by black lines, and the divided threads of the warp are represented in red
lines; and it will be perceived, that in the selvage the hair passes over one
warp thread and under the next, while in the hair in the body of the cloth
passes over four warp threads and under one thread, then over four other
threads, and so on, a different combination of four warp threads being bound
in one loop with each of the five changes produced by the heddles. In
repeating these changes, owing to the difference in the number of threads
forming the short loops of the selvage and the long loops of the body of the
fabric, the hair inserted with the first of the series of changes combines six
warp threads instead of four in one loop next to the selvage, thereby forming
a loop of excessive length, and giving an uneven and imperfect appearance to
the fabric, to avoid which is the object of this feature of improvement in the
Invention; and although I am aware that hair cloth has heretofore been
woven without this imperfection in looms in which the several sets of heddles
were operated by hand to open the sheds in regular succession, I am not
aware that by any automatic or self-operating means the said imperfection has
been removed. This desirable result has been accomplished by the arrange-
ment of the cams 1, 2, 3, 4, in the following manner:-The cam wheel M
makes one-fifth of a revolution with each intermittent rotating cam shaft a
produced by the engagement of the swinging hook w with one of the five
tappets of the tappet wheel ✗, as above explained; and it will be perceived
that the cams r', 7, 73, each occupy a position at one-fifth of a division of the
circumference asunder, and that the cam * occupies a space equal to that of
tivo of the other cams and the intervening space, and is, in fact, two cams

page_text: united in one, so that there are actually five cams, which I will distinguish by
the Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, in red, each of which produces the following
changes in the order represented in Figure 2, with reference to the heddles,
and as represented in Figure 3, with reference to the succeeding sheds of the
warp, to wit, cam 1 produces the first change of the selvage heddle, as shown
in Figure 2. and the hair is inserted in the shed, as shown in the first change;
Figure 3, cam 2, produces the second change, as represented; cam 3 the third
change; cam 4 the fourth change; and cam 5 the fifth change, and last of the
series. With the next rotating movement of the cam wheel M the first
change is repeated; but as cam 5 and cam 1 constitute one cam 7 instead of
opening the alternate selvage shed, no change takes place, the same selvage
shed remains open, and a second hair is inserted therein, as shown by the
Diagram of the two first changes in Figure 3. If, on the contrary, the alternate
selvage shed was opened with the repetition of the first change, the first selvage
thread would constitute one of the open sheds, the hair would be-inserted
beneath it, and the adjoining loop z³ in the body of the cloth would combine
six threads instead of four, and thus create the imperfection above described.
As a self-operating means, therefore, for operating and controlling the selvage
threads of the warp to effect this purpose, the arrangement of the cams
,,,, or the equivalent thereof, forms one feature of improvement in the
Invention.
I will next proceed to describe that feature of improvement which relates
to the combination and arrangement of the "let-off" and "take-up'
mechanisms, in doing which reference will be had to Plates II. and VIII.
In these Plates, C is the yarn beam; P, P¹, are the pressure rollers of the
"let-off;" A is the breast beam; Q, Q¹, are the pressure rollers of the "take-
up," and E is the cloth beam. The warp K passes from the yarn beam C around
and between the "let-off" rollers P, P¹, thence in the direction indicated by
the arrows through the heddles and reed, and over the breast beam A, thence
around and between the "take-up" rollers Q, Q', and is finally wound upon
the cloth beam E. The said warp is pinched between the "let-off" rollers
by means of a set screw 3 in the upper end of a lever 4, in which the roller P
has a bearing at each end, as shown in Figure 2 of the said plate. The warp
is also pinched between the "take-up" rollers Q, Q', by means of a lever,
and the force of a spring f' applied to the end thereof, which is exerted upon
the bearing at each end of the roller Q', as shown. In addition to this, the
said warp is so wrapped around the said rollers, that any revolution of tho
roller is transmitted to the warp, and in order that both sets of rollers P, P,
and Q, Q, may revolve with an equal speed, and in the same direction, I

page_text: connect the two rollers P and Q by means of two equal pairs of bevel
gears k³, k, and a. cross shaft 10 extending at right angles with the axis of
said rollers at one end thereof. The rollers P, P¹, and Q, Q, aro of equal
diameter, and being thus connected by the bevel gears and shaft 10, they are
revolved with an intermittent movement in the same direction by means of
the worm gear F on the shaft of roller P and its worm it on the upright
shaft 12, the ratchet wheel m³, and the ratchet 14, the latter moving with the
swinging arm g, which is connected by the rod to the sword g³ of tho
lathe, as shown, and the parts being thus arranged with each beat of the lathe,
the ratchet 14 turns the ratchet wheel m³ to the extent of one tooth (there
being generally from 28 to 36 teeth in said wheel) according to the width of
the fabric, thereby giving each, the worm and worm gear, a slight yet sufficient
rotary movement to cause the warp to progress in its passage to the cloth
beam E a suitable distance to provide for the insertion of the succeeding length
of hair or other weft.
It will be apparent that as the warp is confined in its position by the
pressure roller, and is made to progress regularly by a combined equal move-
ment in each, in the same direction, all unnecessary tension of the warp is
avoided, and the warp makes that degree of progress which is necessary to
provide for the insertion of each succeeding hair, which progress is derived
from the movement of the lathe in beating up each preceding hair to provide
space for the insertion of which such progressive movement is so made, and
it is this peculiarity of the Invention, which distinguishes it from all other
devices, and arrangements for the purpose with which I am acquainted, and
which enables me to weave hair cloth with a more uniform and better
appearance than the same has been done heretofore, while the avoidance of
the excessive tension on the warp heretoforo produced by the separate move-
ment of the "let-off" and "take-up" results in almost wholly preventing the
breaking of the threads of the warp, and the annoyance and loss of time
consequent thereupon. To provide for a disconnection of the "take up
rollers from the "let-off" rollers, when it is desirable from any cause, and in
removing the woven fabric from the loom, I form one bearing of the cross
shaft 10 in the lever 15, which swings on the pivot &, and is held in the posi-
tion necessary for the meshing of the two bevil gears k', by means of the pin o³
passing through the frame. The take-up roller being revolved by means of
the hand wheel c', and such revolution being transmitted to the cloth beam E
by means of the cross belt or band passing around said beam the roller Q,
as shown in Plates I. and II., Figure 2, to wind the cloth as it is woven, or
unwind the same after the cloth beam has become filled to remove it from
39

page_text: the machine. To provide for the event of a failure to insert a hair, or length
of weft in the open shed of the warp, I connect the ratchet 14 by means of
the rod 16 to an arm 17 on the same rocker shaft n', which controls the
action of the several sets of heddles, whereby the same motion of the said rocker
-shaft, which withdraws the hook w from engaging with the tappet y if the
tappet wheel X as above explained also lifts the said ratchet from engaging
with the teeth of the ratchet wheel m³, and by so doing prevents the farther
revolution of the "let-off" and "take-up" rollers until a hair is inserted
in the open shed, which having been done the ratchet is dropped, and it
with the hook is permitted to act in their respective capacities as above
related.
The combination and arrangement of the "let-off" and "take-up" as above
specified is only mentioned in connection with hair cloth looms, but as it is
obviously applicable to looms for weaving other and most kinds of fabrics it
should be understood that the improvement is claimed when applied to all
looms in which it is capable of use with the same beneficial effect as is above
specified. I will also here state that so much of the above described
mechanism as relates to the lifting of the ratchet 14 from engagement with
the ratchet wheel to stop the progress of the warp is as a separate device not
my Invention, but has been previously employed for the purpose.
I will next proceed to describe that feature of improvement which relates
to the shaping of the reed or sley to counteract the effects of shrinkage
by the drying of the weft after the same is inserted in the warp, in doing which
reference will be had to Plate II. Figure 2, and Plate VII. Figure 4. In the
selvage of hair cloth the hair is of necessity bound more closely and rigidly
than in the body of the fabric, and the hair which is previously moistened to
render it more flexible becomes dry after it is woven, in doing which it shrinks
in the direction of its length, and has the effect to draw the hair in the body of
the cloth into the form of an irregular arc or curve greatly to the injury of the
appearance and usefulness of the goods, the concave side of the curve being
next to the reed, and it is the object of this feature of the Invention to remove
this difficulty. For the accomplishment of which I curve the reed R, which
is used to beat up the inserted bair in as nearly as possible the form in which
the lengths of weft are curved by the shrinkage, as before explained, except
that the said reed is curved in the opposite direction as shown in Plate II.,
Figure 2, and Plate VII. Figure 4, by which means the moist hair or weft
is inserted and beat up in the form of a curve by the said curved reed R so
that by its shrinkage in drying in the same manner and direction which
heretofore curved the weft, it is laid straight and at right angles with the

page_text: warp.
The said reed is curved and held in the requisite curved position by
means of a former e of wood placed between the reed and the straight edge
of the groove 2* in the lathe, and the binder f, which is set up against the
reed by means of the two bolts therein as shown.
I will next proceed to describe that feature of improvement which relates to
the means employed to arrest the operation of the instrument used to select the
length of hair or other weft from a mass, and present it to the nipper, the
same being sufficiently illustrated by Figures 1 and 2 of Plate IX. In said-
Figures A is a metal plate which is secured to a metal plate Y extending from
the left end of the lathe beam G as shown in the several Figures. A stand D"!
is fastened upon the metal plate A in the upper portion of which are formed:
suitable bearings for the shaft a which is revolved by means of a grooved-
pulley 6 by means of a band thereon connecting with another pulley of suitable
size conveniently arranged for the purpose on some revolving part of the
machine. The shaft a is provided with a pitman which in revolving imparts a
vertical reciprocating movement to the lance which selects the length of hair
or other weft at the proper time as herein-before related, and in order to
provide against the event of a failure of the said lance to select a hair or
length of weft in its first effort to do so the movement is repeated until a hair
is selected; should this movement however continue after the nipper advances
to seize the hair, the nipper would strike against tlie lance and break it and its.
appendages. To prevent this casualty I arrange on the stand D a lever or
ratchot T which is thrown up into an engagement with the notched disk e ón
the shaft a thereby arresting the further revolution of the latter and holding
the lance and its appendages up out of the way until the nipper completes its
stroke and is withdrawn. The proper time for arresting the further movement
of the lance is when the lathe is in its most forward position. In order
therefore to throw up the said ratchet at this period of the lathe's movement,
I arrange a stationary inclined surface in such a position that with the
extreme forward movement of the lathe it depresses the end of a swinging
lever r by contact with a stud thereon which depressed end is connected by a
rod S to the opposite end of the ratchet lever T2, and the engagement of said
ratchet with the notched disk is in consequence effected. The ratchet lever is
lisengaged to release the shaft a and permit it to resume its revolutions by
means of the prong 9 which is straddled by the fork t, having a sliding move-
ment sidewise, which slides the ratchet aside from the notch of the disk when
the spring connecting with the lever returns it (lever r) and the ratchet
lever T2 to the position shown in Figure 2. This stop arranged to operate in.
the manner shown and specified is necessary for the successful operation of the

page_text: lance and nipper and is therefore claimed as one feature of improvement in the
Invention.
I will next proceed to describe that feature of improvement which relates to
the means employed to trim off the straggling ends of hair which escape from
the bunch or mass by reason of the repeated selection made therefrom by the
lance and otherwise, in doing which I shall refer to Figures 1, 2, 3, and 4, of
Plate IX. In Figure 3 of said plate B is the compressed ends of the bunch
of hair or other weft, the same being confined beneath the clasp H³, and
compressed by means of a pressure pad beneath, and 6', 6', represent straggling
hair which has escaped confinement or has been partially drawn out by the
other hair which has been drawn from the bunch by the nipper. Those
straggling ends of hair protrude through the space between the series of
cutting blades w³ of the plate U, and they are clipped off by means of the
sliding blade E on the sliding plate e, the extreme end of which strikes
against the post 4 on the frame B, Figure 2, with the backward stroke of the
lathe and slides the blade E' past the hooked edge of the blades 20³, thereby
cutting off the protruding ends. The sliding blade is returned with tho
next forward stroke of the lathe by means of the rod 20 rivetted to the said
sliding plate, the end of. which strikes against some convenient part of the
frame of the machine and slides the plate and blade E2 back preparatory to
repeating its cutting stroke as shown in Figure 1. This device tends to
prevent the straggling ends of the weft from being accidentally caught
between the jaws of the nipper, and from embarassing the action of the more
delicate parts which operate in conjunction with the lance, and is
therefore of importance and is claimed as one feature of improvements in the
Invention.
Having thus described the Invention I would not be understood as restric-
ting myself to the particular construction and arrangement herein set forth and
described as I claim all modifications in which the same mode of operation is
performed by equivalent nieans.
I claim, first, the employment of two projecting pegs or their equivalents
in the jaws of the nippers substantially as described to effect the purpose
specified.
Second, I claim the mode of operation substantially as specified, by
means of which with the last of its advance movement the nipper is first
closed sufficiently to encompass and secure the hair or other weft beyond
the possibility of escape without actually pressing the same and with the com-
mencement of its retreating inovement. the moveable jaw of the nipper is
permitted to compress and seize the hair or other weft with the necessary force

page_text: to draw it from the bunch into the open shed of the warp substantially as
specified.
Third, I claim the employment of two sets of fixed and moveable pulleys O, O',
P, P, or their equivalent in combination with the treadle levers R', R', and a
suitable strap connecting with the nipper staff substantially as described for the
purpose specified.
Fourth, I claim operating the several sets of heddles from the main shaft
by means of a cam thereon, and a swinging hook the latter engaging with a
number of tappets of a tappet wheel to impart an intermittent rotary move-
ment to the set of cams or other instrumentalities by which the said heddles
are operated in their proper order substantially as described to effect the
purpose specified.
Fifth, I claim the mode of operation, substantially as specified, by means of
which in the event of a failure of the nipper to seize and draw a length of hair
or other weft into the open shed of the warp, the said heddles remain at rest
unchanged and entirely disconnected from the source of motion by which the
same are operated with the last shed open, until by reason and as a consequence
of the seizure of a length of hair or other weft by the nipper, and the drawing
of the same into the open shed of the warp, a connection is effected between
the device which operates the several sets of heddles and the source of motion
by which the device is actuated to open the succeeding shed of the warp pre-
paratory to the insertion of the succeeding length of hair or other weft
substantially as specified.
Sixth, I claim the arrangement of the cams 1, 2, 13, 1, which operate the
selvage heddles, or the equivalent therefor, substantially as and to effect the
purpose specified.
Seventh, I claim the combination and arrangement of the "let-off" and
"take-up" mechanism, whereby both are operated and controlled by the same
means in a manner to cause the warp to progress sufficiently with each beat of
the lathe to provide space for the insertion of each succeeding length of hair
or other weft substantially as specified.
Eighth, I claim curving or otherwise shaping the sley or reed substantially
in the manner described to effect the purpose specified.
Nintb, I claim a stop or an equivalent arrangement for arresting at the
proper time the further operation of automatic means employed to select
the lengths of hair or other weft from a mass substantially as described to
effect the purpose specified.
Tenth, I claim in combination with a suitable device for confining and
compressing the lengths of hair or other material as specified a suitable

page_text: clipping or shearing device substantially as described to effect the purpose
specified.
In witness whereof, I, the said George Tomlinson Bousfield, have here-
unto set my hand and seal, this Seventh day of March, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-four.
GEO. T. BOUSFIELD.
(L.S.)