Improvements in Woven Fabrics.
Year: 1897

page_text: Date of Application, 23rd Mar., 1897
Complete Specification Left, 23rd Dec., 1897--Accepted, 29th Jan., 1898
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Woven Fabrics.
I, ALFRED HEALD, of 63, West Johnson Street, Germantown, in the City and
County of Philadelphia, State of Pennsylvania, one of the United States of
America, Textile Designer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be
as follows:
My invention consists of a woven fabric intended especially for carpets and
combining both a damask and an ingrain weave, by "damask" being meant
figuring warp threads deeply indented at intervals by fine binding wefts so as to
present a pitted, or honeycomb, effect, and by "ingrain" fabric being meant a
fabric composed of figuring weft threads interwoven with fine binding warps.
In one embodiment of my invention heavy stuffer wefts are used in connection
with the damask figuring warps so as to raise the latter between the points at
which they are bound down by the fine binding wefts, and these stuffer wefts are,
in certain parts of the fabric, carried to the face of the same so as to aid in the
formation of the pattern.
In another embodiment of my invention these stuffer wefts are dispensed with,
and the indenting of the damask figuring warps is effected by imparting such
tension to the fine binding warps that the fine binding wefts will be drawn down
tightly, and said damask figuring warps will be compressed and deeply indented
wherever the fine binding wefts cross over the same.
A fabric made in accordance with the first embodiment of my invention, com-
prises heavy damask figuring warps, fine binding warps, ingrain figuring wefts,
damask stuffer wefts and fine damask binder wefts.
Each of the damask warps may consist of either a single strand, or of a number
of strands, passing through the same space of the reed, and the same eye of the
harness, these warps being controlled by an appropriate jacquard machine.
One half of the fine warp threads is controlled by one of the shafts, or journals,
of the loom and the alternate threads are controlled by another shaft, or journal,
of the loom, so that they may be alternately lifted and depressed to form a shed
for the passage of the wefts, or these threads may also be controlled by the
jacquard apparatus when the latter is constructed to manipulate them in the same
manner as the usual shafts, or journals.
The figuring wefts of the ingrain fabric are interwoven with the fine binding
warps so as to form a ply which constitutes one face of the fabric when the damask
warps constitute the other face of the same, the thick stuffer wefts in such case
lying between the damask warps and the ingrain ply. When, however, it is
desired to use the damask stuffer wefts in the pattern of the fabric the said wefts
are carried to the face of the fabric and the damask warps are caused to pass
between them and the ingrain ply on the back of the fabric.
The fine binding wefts engage with the fine binding warps, so as to draw down
the damask figuring warps between the stuffer wefts.
In this fabric therefore the damask figuring warps appear sometimes upon the
face of the fabric and sometimes upon the back of the same, and sometimes are

page_text: embedded between the stuffer wefts on the face of the fabric and the ingrain ply
on the back of the fabric, the said ingrain ply changing from one face of the fabric
to the other as the exigencies of the pattern may demand and the damask stuffer
wefts appearing upon the face of the fabric and overlying the damask warps
whenever such stuffer wefts are required in the formation of the pattern, but at
other times simply lying embedded between the damask warps and the ingrain
ply.
"
In that embodiment, of my invention in which the damask stuffer wefts are not
used, such tension is imparted to the fine warp threads that the fine binding wefts
will be drawn down tightly thereby and the comparatively soft damask warps
will be compressed and deeply indented, wherever the fine binding wefts engage
the same, so that substantially the same face will be presented by the damask
portion of the fabric as would be presented if the stuffer wefts were employed.
In this fabric I prefer to arrange the figuring weft threads in sets of any
desired number shot into the same shed of binding warps and where the damask
warps appear upon the face of the fabric these figuring wefts will lie in the
same plane at the back of the fabric, but where the damask warp is not to appear
upon the face of the fabric the set of ingrain weft threads is divided, either
thread of the set going to the face of the fabric to aid in the formation of the
pattern and the other thread, or threads, of the set lying upon the back of the
fabric, the damask warp threads passing between the face and back threads of
the set of ingrain wefts. If the set comprise two threads therefore, either of
these threads may be caused to appear upon the face of the fabric, so as to provide
in the pattern two colours in addition to the colour or colours of the damask warp,
and if the set of ingrain wefts comprise three, a like number of colours is avail-
able for use in the pattern of the fabric.
Four colours in addition to the colour or colours of the damask warp may be
provided by having four ingrain weft threads of different, colours in successive
sets or pairs, and shooting in these wefts in the same manner in which they are
introduced in making an ordinary two-ply ingrain fabric, with ground, figure,
shot-about, or mate-thread effects on the face of the fabric, but as the use of
four differently coloured ingrain wefts in two sets, or pairs, of two each, as pro-
posed, would necessitate the use of five shuttle boxes in the loom because of the
shuttle carrying the fine binder weft, I propose in this form of fabric to use a
thread of like colour in each pair, or set, of weft threads, so that only three shuttles
will be required for the figuring weft threads and the usual four-box loom,
such as is employed in weaving an ordinary two-ply ingrain carpet fabric is
available for the weaving of my improved fabric.
Either of the fabrics described may, if desired, be provided with a backing
composed of heavy wefts tied in place either by the ingrain binding warps, or by
a special binding warp engaging with the fine damask binder wefts.
Dated this 23rd day of March 1897.
JOHNSONS & WILLCOX,
47, Lincoln's Inn Fields, London, W.C., Agents.
Improvements in Woven Fabrics.
.I, ALFRED HEALD,. of 63, West Johnson Street, Germantown, in the City and
County of Philadelphia, State of Pennsylvania, one of the United States of
America, Textile Designer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in

page_text: what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement:-
My invention consists of a woven fabric intended especially for carpets › and
combining both a damask and an ingrain weave, by
46 damask" being meant
figuring warp threads deeply indented at intervals by fine binding wefts so as to
present a pitted, or honeycomb, effect, and by "ingrain" fabric being meant a
fabric composed of figuring. weft threads, interwoven with fine binding warps.
In one embodiment of my invention heavy stuffer wefts are used in combination
with the damask figuring warps so as to raise the latter between the points at
which they are bound down by the fine binding wefts and these stuffer wefts are,
in certain parts of the fabric, carried to the face of the same so as to aid in the
formation of the pattern.
In another embodiment of my invention these stuffer wefts are dispensed with,
and the indenting of the damask figuring warps is effected by imparting such
tension to the fine binding warps that the fine binding wefts will be drawn
down tightly, and said damask figuring warps will be compressed and deeply
indented wherever the fine binding wefts cross over the same.
":
A fabric, made in accordance with the first embodiment of my invention, com-
prises heavy damask figuring warps, fine binding warps, ingrain figuring wefts
damask stuffer wefts and fine damask binder wefts.
Each of the damask warps may consist of either a single strand, or of a number
of strands, passing through the same space of the reed, and the same eye of the
harness, these warps being controlled by an appropriate jacquard machine.
One half of the fine warp threads is controlled by one of the shafts or journals,
of the loom and the alternate threads are controlled by another shaft, or journal,
of the loom, so that they may be alternately lifted and depressed to form a shed for
the passage of the wefts, or these threads may also be controlled by the jacquard
apparatus when the latter is constructed to manipulate them in the same manner
as the usual shafts, or journals.
1+ ***** 1
The figuring wefts of the ingrain fabric are interwoven with the fine binding
warps so as to form a ply which constitutes one face of the fabric when, the
damask warps constitute the other face of the same, the thick stuffer wefts in
such case lying between the damask warps and the ingrain ply. When, however,
it is desired to use the damask stuffer wefts in the pattern of the fabric the said
wefts are carried to to the face of the fabric and the damask warps are caused to
pass between them and the ingrain ply on the back of the fabric.
The fine binding wefts engage with the fine binding warps, so as to draw down
the damask figuring warps between the stuffer wefts.
In this fabric therefore the damask figuring warps appear sometimes upon
the
face of the fabric and sometimes upon the back of same, and sometimes are
embedded between the stuffer wefts on the face of the fabric and the ingrain ply
on the back of the fabric, the said ingrain ply changing from one face of the
fabric to the other as the exigencies of the pattern may demand and the damask
stuffer wefts appearing upon the face of the fabric and overlying the damask
warps whenever such stuffer wefts are required in the formation of the pattern,
out at other times simply lying embedded between the damask warps and the
ngrain ply.
In that embodiment of my invention in which the damask stuffer wefts 'are
ot used, such tension is imparted to the fine warp threads that the fine binding
vefts will be drawn down tightly thereby and the comparatively soft damask
varps will be compressed and deeply indented wherever the fine binding wefts
ngage the same, so that substantially the same face will be presented by. the
amask portion of the fabric as would be presented if the stuffer wefts were
mployed."
:
In this fabric I prefer to arrange the figuring weft threads in sets of'any
esired number shot into the same shed of binding warns and where the damask
arps appear upon the face of the fabric these figuring wefts will lie in the same

page_text: plane at the back of the fabric, but where the damask warp is not to appear upon
the face of the fabric the set of ingrain weft threads is divided, either thread of the
set going to the face of the fabric to aid in the formation of the pattern and
the other thread, or threads, of the set lying upon the back of the fabric, the
damask warp threads passing between the face and back threads of the set of
ingrain wefts. If the set comprise two threads therefore, either of these threads
may be caused to appear upon the face of the fabric, so as to provide in the
pattern two colours in addition to the colour or colours of the damask warp, and
if the set of ingrain wefts comprise three, a like number of colours is available
for use in the pattern of the fabric.
Four colours in addition to the colour or colours of the damask warp may be
provided by having four ingrain weft threads of different colours in successive
sets or pairs, and shooting in these wefts in the same manner in which they are
introduced in making an ordinary two-ply ingrain fabric, with ground, figure,
shotabout, or mate-thread effects on the face of the fabric, but as the use of four
differently coloured ingrain weft in two sets, or pairs, of two each, as proposed,
would necessitate the use of five shuttle boxes in the loom because of the shuttle
carrying the fine binder weft, I propose in this form of fabric to use a thread of
like colour in each pair, or set, of weft threads, so that only three shuttles will be
required for the figuring weft threads and the usual four box loom, such as is
employed in weaving an ordinary two ply ingrain carpet fabric is available for
the weaving of my improved fabric. I would have it understood that I do not
limit myself to any particular number of colours or shuttles.
Either of the fabrics described may, if desired, be provided with a backing com-
posed of heavy wefts tied in place either by the ingrain binding warps, or by a
special binging warp engaging with the fine damask binder wefts.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.
Figure 1 is a face view of a piece of fabric constructed in accordance with my
invention, but without any attempt to represent the weave.
Figure 2 is an exaggerated section of the fabric, taken in the direction of the
warp.
Fig. 3 is a like exaggerated section of the fabric, taken in the direction of the
weft; and
Figs: 4 and 5 are views illustrating methods of combining backing-threads
with the fabric.
Fig. 6 is a plan or face view of a piece of fabric according to the second
embodiment of my invention.
Figs. 7 and 8 are diagrams representing two side sections, showing the course
the warp threads take, also the position of the weft threads. Fig. 7 represents a
section showing warp threads of, say, odd dents, and Fig. 8 the warp threads of
even dents, both sectional views being necessary to show clearly the operation
of the thin cotton or wool weft.
Figs. 9 and 10 are cross sectional views showing the course of the figuring weft
threads, also of the fine binding wefts, and position of the warp threads.
Fig. 11 is a diagram showing a side section of a modification of the form of
fabric shown in Figs. 6-10.
Referring to Figs. 1 to 5, the ingrain ply is composed of interwoven warps a, a¹;
and wefts A, A¹, and the damask ply is composed of face warps b, and filling or
stuffer threads or wefts B, alternated with fine wefts c, with which one or other
of the ingrain warps engage, so as to confine the two plies of the fabric firmly
together.
I make the filling thread B of the same material as the other threads of the
fabric or of a material which will permit of its use with said other threads in
the formation of the pattern upon the face of the fabric, and in those portions of
the fabric where this filling-thread is to appear in the pattern I sink the damask
warps
so that the weft-threads B will overlie the same, the damask warps being
down and embedded between these damask wefts B on the face of the fabric and
b

page_text: the ingrain ply on the back of the fabric. Thus in the drawings the portion w of
the fabric is one in which the ingrain ply is on the face and the damask ply is
on the back, while in the portion of the fabric the damask ply is on the face,
damask warps being up, and the ingrain ply is on the back, and in the portion y
of the fabric the damask weft is up or on the face, the ingrain ply on the back,
and the damask warp is down and between the two.
Wherever the damask weft appears on the face of the fabric it is tied down by
one of the ingrain warps, preferably by that one which does not engage the fine
weft c.
When a double faced fabric is not desired, heavy wefts m may be applied to
the back of the fabric and bound thereto either by the ingrain warps, or one of
them, as shown in Fig. 4, or by a special warp n, engaging with the backing
threads and with wefts of the face fabric, as shown for instance in Fig. 5.
The term
damask," as used in this Specification, means a web or fabric in
which warps are combined with thick and thin wefts without regard to the
particular shedding, except that the thin wefts in all cases serve as binders.
66
Referring to Figs. 6-10, a, a¹, show the catching or binding warps for nipping
the weft threads together. These warp threads are preferably of equal thickness,
the thicker line a represents the nearest or outer thread seen in each section.
The catching warp threads are visible on the face of the fabric only where the
damask warp b is in the middle of the fabric. When the damask warp is floating
on the face of the fabric, the said binding warp threads are covered by the thick
damask warps.
The catching warp threads cross or change after every two picks of figuring
wefts in one set, and two figuring wefts and one damask binder weft in the second
set. This operation takes place whether the damask warp is in the middle or on
the face of the fabric. When the damask warp is floating on the surface of the
carpet, the fine binding warps close the wefts together substantially as shown at
the right hand side of Figs. 7 and 8; that is, instead of being nipped together in
a perpendicular position with the damask warps between them as shown at the
left of Figs. 7 and 8 they are nipped together horizontally as above referred to.
A, A, show the weft threads, b, b, are the thick damask warps which I utilize to
produce large and broad design effects by the aid of the thin cotton or wool
wefts c. Hitherto these damask warp threads have been tied or bound down by
one of the ordinary figuring wefts; the chief objection to this has been that one
mixes up with the other and neither of the effects have been found to be clear and
good on account of their not being solid in colour. But by the aid of the
additional thin cotton or wool weft thread c the damask warps may be bound down
thus producing a practically solid colour effect, without interfering with. the
ordinary figuring wefts. In practice the thin cotton or wool wefts and the
damask warps are preferably of the same colour.
In Fig. 11, which shows a further embodiment of my invention, by a like
view to Figs. 7 and 8, similar reference letters refer to the same parts as in those
figures. The right hand side of Fig. 11 substantially represents how the twill
is formed, and shows the floating of the odd and even damask warps. It indicates,
as it were, the right hand side of Figs. 7 and 8 combined.
By employing an ordinary figuring weft thread c Fig. 11 in place of the thin
cotton damask binder c Figs. 7 and 8, it is possible to produce very much more
design effect, as this said figuring weft thread c, Fig. 11, not only serves to tie
the damask warp, but it may also be shot with some of the other figuring wefts.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is:
1. A woven fabric in which an ingrain ply composed of interwoven warps and
wefts, and a damask ply composed of warps and thick and thin wefts are combined
as described, whereby the face of the fabric is composed in part of an ingrain ply

page_text: with the warps up, in part of a damask ply, and in part of damask. weft-thread's
overlying the damask warps, substantially as specified.
512. woven fabric in which an ingrain ply composed of interwoven warps and
wefts, and a damask ply composed of warps and thick and thin wefts are combined
as described, whereby the face of the fabric is composed in part of an ingrain
ply, in part of a damask ply with the warps up, and in part of damask weft-
threads overlying the damask warps and tied down by the ingrain warp, 'sub-
stantially as specified.
3. A woven fabric in which an ingrain ply composed of interwoven warps and
wefts, a damask-ply composed of warps and thick and thin wefts, and a backing-
ply, are combined as described, whereby the face of the fabric is composed in
part of an ingrain ply, in part of a damask ply with the warps 'up, and in part of
damaskwefts overlying the damask warps, the backing-wefts being united to the
face fabric by means of warp-threads 'engaging said backing-wefts and wefts of
the face fabric, substantially as specified.
'
... V
::
4. A woven fabric in which an ingrain ply composed of interwoven warps and
wefts; and a damask ply composed of warps and thin wefts are combined as
described, the ingrain or binding warps serving to draw down the thin damask
wefts thereby compressing and deeply indenting the damask warps wherever said
thin binding wefts engage the same, substantially as and for the purpose herein-
before set forth.
-5! A woven fabric in which an ingrain ply composed of interwoven warps and
wefts, and a damask ply composed of warps and figuring wefts are combined as
described the ingrain or binding warps serving to draw down the figuring wefts
'thereby compressing' and deeply indenting the damask warps wherever said
figuring wefts engage the same, substantially as and for the purpose. herein before
set forth.
G. The manufacture and use of fabrics in which an ingrain ply, composed of
interwoven warps and wefts, and a damask ply composed of warps and thick and
thin wefts, or alternatively of only thin or figuring wefts, all substantially as
and for the purposes hereinbefore set forth.
7. The manufacture and use of fabrics by weaving in the manner and for the
purpose hereinbefore set forth.