Improvements in the Production of Ornamental Designs upon Woven Fabrics.
Year: 1893

page_text: Date of Application, 25th Apr., 1893
Complete Specification Left, 23rd Jan., 1894-Accepted, 7th Apr., 1894
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Production of Ornamental Designs upon
Woven Fabrics.
We, GUILLAUME LAVEISSIÈRE, and GASTON CHAMONT, both of Deville-les-
Rouen, in the Republic of France, Manufacturers, do hereby declare the nature of
this invention to be as follows:-
The process which forms the subject of our present invention consists in novel
method of preserving certain parts which form designs of any desired shape, from
contact with and the action of the machines ordinarily used for teasing or forming
a nap upon the surface of woollen woven fabrics, such designs consequently being
left free from the nap which is formed in other parts of the fabric.
preservation of such designs from the action of the machine is effected by printing
such parts with a preservative material either by continuous pressure or by successive
impressions.
The
The first step therefore is to impress upon the cloth, with the preserving
material, the design which it is desired to keep free from the action of the
machine.
The design will be plain or coloured according to whether the preserving material
has been associated with one or more colouring matters.
After the impression the cloth is passed directly under the machine by which
the nap is formed upon its surface, if the design is to remain white, or it may be
previously treated in the usual way for the purpose of fixing the colour in the
preserving material if necessary and it is then passed through the machine in the
usual way.
By this improved process therefore designs may be obtained either white or
coloured in one or more colours and protected from the action of the teasing
machine upon woollen grounds either white or coloured in one or more colours
according to whether the white or coloured design has been impressed upon a white
ground or upon one previously coloured.
The ground may also be coloured after the preserving material has been applied
and before passing through the machine by a second printing process.
Or inversely and by the same process the designs may be acted upon by the
machine upon grounds not so treated.
The following are some illustrations of the method in which our invention is put
in operation.
1. The preserving material, white or not coloured is printed upon a cloth
previously dyed uniformly in red, which is then passed through the machine the
parts not being protected being acted upon by the latter whilst the remainder
remains untouched, the surface being left smooth or with a nap respectively.
2. The uncoloured preserving material is printed upon a cloth previously
printed in a design consisting for example of parallel lines of two colours such
as rose and grey, and the cloth is then treated in the way described in the first
example.
3. The protecting material may be applied in the form of a design such as a
series of spots in two colours such as rose and blue alternately upon a ground upon
which has been previously printed a design such as a series of parallel diagonal
black lines. After printing the rose and blue colours are fixed in the usual way.
and the cloth is then passed through- the machine which operates only upon the
printed ground and not upon the red and blue spots which have been protected by
the coloured protecting material.

page_text: 4. Or instead of the process last described the ground may be printed with a
red check, in which case the edges of the spots are slightly overlapped by the
nap produced by the machine on the ground.
5. The white protecting material unmixed with colour is printed from in the
required design upon white cloth upon wbich is afterwards printed a design such
as parallel red lines covering the entire surface, these red lines being afterwards
fixed in the usual way before the cloth is passed through the machine. The
protecting material not only protects the design from the action of the machine
but it also prevents the red colour from being fixed in the parts where it has been
applied.
6. The uncoloured protecting material is printed in parallel bands upon a white
cloth which is then passed through the machine. The cloth is then uniformly
coloured say with a rose colour. The protecting material not only protects the
parallel stripes which it covers from the action of the machine but it also prevents
the rose tint from becoming fixed upon the protected stripes.
The entire material may afterwards be uniformly coloured with a yellow or other
suitable dye.
The different effects produced as above described may evidently be infinitely
varied both in the design and in the colours used.
Our improved process has the very great advantage over those ordinarily used in
which metal patterns are applied upon the cloth when the latter is passed through
the teasing machine in order to preserve the required parts of them from the action
of the machine, of not requiring any special machine, so that it is very economical
and quickly executed whilst the former processes ordinarily employed require special
machines which turn out only a small quantity of stuff and are very costly both in
themselves and in the multiplicity of patterns which they require.
Moreover by our process of protecting the design the colours of the parts so
protected against the action of the machine being absolutely independent of the
parts not so protected it is possible to vary infinitely the designs and modifications
which it may be desired to produce and which it is absolutely impossible to obtain
by the processes ordinarily employed.
Dated this 25th day of April 1893.
J
EDWARDS & Co.,
35, Southampton Buildings, London, Agents for the Applicants.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Production of Ornamental Designs upon
Woven Fabrics.
We, GUILLAUME LAVEISSIERE, and GASTON CHAMONT, both of Deville-les-
Rouen, in the Republic of France, Manufacturers, do hereby declare the nature
of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement, that is to
say:
The process which forms the subject of the present invention consists in a novel
method of preserving certain parts, which form designs of any desired pattern, from
contact with, and the action of, the machines ordinarily used for teasing, or forming
a nap upon the surface of, woven fabrics, such designs being consequently left free
from the nap which is formed on other parts of the fabric. Such preservation of
the designs from the action of the machine is effected by printing the required parts
with a preservative material, consisting of a solution of gum, as ordinarily used for.
such purpose, either by continuous pressure or by successive impressions.
The first step, therefore, of the process is to impress upon the cloth, with the
preserving material, the design which it is desired to keep free from the action of the

page_text: machine. The design will be plain or coloured according to whether the preserving
material has been associated with one or more colouring matters.
After the impression, the cloth' is passed directly under the machine or apparatus
by which the nap is formed upon its surface, if the design is to remain white; or it
miay be previously treated in the usual way for the purpose, of fixing the colour
associated with the preserving material if necessary, and it is then submitted
to the process for forming the nap upon its surface in the usual way, as already
explained.
.t. i
It will be seen from the above description, therefore, that by the improved
process designs may be obtained, either white or coloured, in 'one or more colours,
and protected from the action of the napping process, upon a ground either white or
coloured in one or more colours, according to whether the white or coloured design
associated with the preserving material has been impressed upon a white ground or
upon one previously coloured.
The ground may also be coloured after the preserving material has been applied,.
and before the napping process, by a second printing process.
Or, inversely, and by the same process, the designs may have the nap formed.
upon them whilst the ground is left free from such treatment.
The following are some illustrations of the method in which our invention is put
in operation:-
1. The preserving material, without colour, is printed upon a fabric previously
dyed with a uniform colour, say red. It is then passed through the teasing or
napping machine, the parts not being protected being acted upon by the latter
whilst the remainder constituting the pattern remains unaltered, the latter being
left smooth and the former with a nap or rough surface respectively.
2. The uncoloured preserving material is printed upon a cloth or fabric having
previously printed upon it, all over, a design consisting for example of parallel
lines of two colours such as rose and grey, and the preserving material being
printed in stripes or bars, the cloth is then treated in the way described in the first
example, the bars or stripes remaining unaltered in surface whilst the remaining
parts are roughened or napped.
3. The preserving material may be applied by printing with it a design, con--
sisting for example of spots of different colours, say rose and blue, upon a ground
previously printed with a design forming a red check.
The rose and blue spots are then permanently fixed in the usual way, and then.
by the napping or teasing process the ground is treated so that a rough surface is
produced upon it, whilst the spots remain unaffected and retain their original
character.
4. Or, the white protecting material unmixed with colour may be printed in the
desired pattern upon white cloth or fabric upon which is afterwards printed a
design, such as parallel red lines covering the entire surface, these red lines being
afterwards fixed in the usual way before the cloth is passed through the napping-
machine. The protecting material not only protects the design from the action of
the machine, but it also prevents the red colour from becoming fixed in the part to
which it has been applied.
The different effects produced as above described inay evidently be infinitely
varied both in the design and in the colours used.
Our improved process has the very great advantage over those ordinarily used,
in which metal patterns are applied upon the cloth when the latter is passed
through the teasing or napping machine, in order to preserve to the required part
of them from the action of the machine, of not requiring any special machine, so
that the work is very economically and quickly executed, whilst the former
processes heretofore ordinarily employed require special machines which turn ont
only a comparatively small quantity of work, and are very costly both in themselves.
and in the multiplicity of the patterns which they require.
Moreover by our process of protecting the design, the colours of the parts so-
protected against the action of the machine being absolutely independent of the

page_text: colour of the parts not so protected, it is possible to vary infinitely the designs and
modifications which it may be desired to produce, and which it is absolutely
impossible to obtain by the processes ordinarily employed.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we
claim is :-
The method of producing upon woven fabrics of all kinds a teased, napped, or
roughened surface, plain or coloured, and having designs the surfaces of which are
protected by a suitable protecting material from the action of the teasing or
napping process, substantially as described.
Dated this 23rd day of January 1894.
EDWARDS & Co.,
35, Southampton Buildings, London, Agents for the Applicants.