Production of Local Durable Silk-like Gloss-effects on Cotton or Linen Stuffs by Means of Printing.
Year: 1896

page_text: Date of Application, 28th Dec., 1890-
Complete Specification Left, 24th Sept., 1897-Accepted, 30th Oct., 1897
DALGU
7000
Complete Specification Left, 24th Sept., 1897-Accepted, 30th Oct., 1897
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Production of Local Durable Silk-like Gloss-effects on Cotton or
Linen Stuffs by Means of Printing.
I, OLIVER IMRAY, of No. 28 Southampton Buildings, Chancery Lane, in
the County of London, Chartered Patent Agent, do hereby declare the
nature of this invention (as communicated to me from abroad by
The Farbwerke vormals
vormals Meister Lucius and Brunning of Hoechst
a/Maine, in the German Empire, Chemical Manufacturers,) to be as follows:-
According to the present invention my correspondents employ for the produc-
tion of local, durable silk-like gloss-effects on cotton or linen stuffs the modified
mercerising system of Thomas and Prevost in Crefeld, and they produce a local
silk gloss by applying appropriate resisting styles capable of neutralising the mer-
cerising effect of soda-lye upon the fabric in a state of tension.
By these means a new, valuable, and technical effect is obtained. As is known,
it has been impossible hitherto to produce damask-like gloss-effects of perfect
durability by means of the dyeing or printing processes. The methods employed
up till now were, as a rule, limited to printing with oxide of zinc, barium sulphate
&c. combined with a fixing agent (albumen caseine &c.) on tissues of sateen-like
weaving and glossdressing, in order to thus neutralise the sateengloss of the
tissue by means of this locally, fixed white colour.
While the gloss produced by this sateen weaving cannot be compared with the
real silkgloss and with that obtained on cotton by Thomas and Prevost's system,
and must be regarded merely as an effect of weaving and a particular method of
dressing, it is to be observed that the silk-gloss of mercerised cotton in a state of
tension is obtained by a chemical and physical chauge of the cotton fibre.
It is a fact that the mercerising of cotton in a state of tension causes the lumen
of the fibre to shrink, to become transparent and to undergo great changes on
its surface which produce this lasting silk-like gloss.
Also from a chemical point of view, the fibre undergoes an advantageous change
and it is generally known that since Mercer's experiments the affinity of cotton
fibres towards mordants and dyestuffs is considerably increased by the influence
of strong soda-lyes and agents acting in a similar manner (concentrated SO,H,
solution of chloride of zinc.) It is therefore possible to produce this mercerising
effect on fabrics locally under conditions as specified by Thomas and Prevost
(tension) either by means of printing with concentrated soda-lye or by protection
of the fibre against the mercerising effect of the soda-lye, a durable silk-damask-
like orfect will be thus obtained.
The substances suitable for the resisting style are easily coagulatable organic
bodies, such as, albumen, caseine &c., as well as salts, acids or oxides, which partly
have a neutralising effect or provide the fibre with a protecting film of an oxide.

page_text: The resisting action of these bodies against soda lye, is not new and was already
known before the German Patents No. 83314 class 8 No. 30966 and No. 37658
(see also Kurrer and Engels, dyeing and printing 4th edit. 1874 p. 12-16).
With the help of these bodies. the most varied white and coloured grimping
effects were obtained, whilst the object of the present invention is to avoid the
shrinking of the tissue and the silk gloss thus caused. In the description of
Gerinan Patent No. 83314, particular stress is laid upon the circumstance, that the
printed resisting style: albumen, cascine &c., or mixtures of gum with acetates
of aluminium or chromium become insoluble by previously steaming and thus
form an inseparable compound with the fibre.
My correspondents have now found that in order to obtain the intended effect,
the applied resisting styles need not be steamed, and the possibility thus created
of effecting a subsequent removal of the albumen or the incrusting protecting
substances is in many cases a great advantage of the present invention.
As the silk-like gfoss produced on tissues in the form of patterns according to
this method is very durable, such cloths may be afterwards dyed; printed, steamed,
and washed without danger to the gloss.
It is likewise possible to produce the most varied printing effects with durable
silk gloss by the addition of mordants or dyestuffs to the resisting styles or to
the mercerising soda-lyc.
. The printing of the resisting styles and the mercerizing may be done separately
or in succession on the printing machine; in the latter case, the printed cloth on
leaving the roller is stretched by means of an appropriate stretching apparatus.
The washing in a stretched state is continued until the inner tension of the
filire has ceased.
i
The following is an example of an appropriate printing colour.
MERCERIZING COLOUR FOR DIRECT PRINTING.
70 grammes British guin
930 grammes soda-lye (40° Bé.)
}
100 grammes wheatstarch
or 200 grammes water
2000 grammnes soda-lye (40°. Bé.)
RisiSTING COLOUR
.!
Production of Local Durable Silk-like Gloss-effects on Cotton or
Linen Stuffs by Means of Printing.
N
I, OLIVER IMRAY, of No. 28 Southampton Buildings, Chancery Lane, in
the County of London; Chartered Patent Agent, do hereby declare the
nature of this. invention (as communicated to me from abroad by
The Farbwerke vormals Meister ...Lucius
Meister Lucius and Brunning of Hoechst
a/Maine, in the German Empire, Chemical Manufacturers) and in what manner
the same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement:
According to the present invention my correspondents employ for the produc-

page_text: tion of local durable"silk-like gloss-effects on cotton or linen stuffs 'the modified
mercerising system of Thomas and Prevost in Crefeld,, and they produce a local
silk-gloss by applying appropriate resisting styles capable of neutralising the mer-
cerising effect of soda-lye upon the fabric in a state of tension.
By these, means a new valuable, and technical effect is obtained.. As is known,
it has been impossible hitherto to produce damask-like gloss-effects of perfect
durability by means of the dyeing or printing processes.
The methods employed, up till now, were, as a rule, limited to printing with
oxide of zinc, barium sulphate &c., combined with a fixing agent (album, caseine
&c.) on tissues of sateen-like weaving and gloss dressing, in order to thus neutralise
the sateen gloss of the tissue by means of this locally, fixed white colour.
While the gloss produced by this sateen weaving.cannot be compared with the
real silk-gloss and with that obtained on cotton by Thomas and Prevost's system,
and must be regarded merely as an effect of weaving and a particular method of
dressing, it is to be observed that the silk-gloss of mercerised cotton in a state of
tension is obtained by a chemical and physical change of the cotton fibre.
"It is a fact that the mercerising of cotton in a state of tension causes the lumen
of the fibre to shrink, to become transparent and to undergo great changes on
its surface which produce this lasting silk-like gloss.
Also from a chemical point of view, the fibre undergoes an advantageous change
and it is generally known that since Mercer's experiments the affinity of cotton
fibres towards mordants and dyestuff's is considerably increased by the influence
of strong soda Iyes and agents acting, in a similar manner (concentrated SOH₂,
solution of chloride of zinc.) It is therefore possible to produce this mercerising
effect on fabrics locally under conditions as specified by Thomas, and Prevost
(tension) either by means of printing with concentrated soda-lye or by protection
of the fibre against the mercerising effect of the soda-lye, a durable silk-damask-
like effect will be thus obtained.
The substances suitable for the resisting style are easily coagulatable organic
bodies, such as albumen, caseine &c., as well as salts, acids or oxides, which partly
have a neutralising effect or provide the fibre with a protecting film of an oxide.
The resisting action of these bodies against soda lye, is not new and was already
known before the German Patents No. 83314 class 8 No. 30966 and No. 37658
(see also Kurrer and Engels, dyeing and printing 4th edit. 1874 p. 12-16).
With the help of these bodies the most varied white and coloured grimping
effects were obtained, whilst the object of the present invention is to avoid the
shrinking of the tissue and the silk gloss thus caused. In the description of
German Patent No. 83314, particular stress is laid upon the circumstance, that the
printed resisting style: albumen, cascine &c., or mixtures of gum with acetates
of aluminium or chromium become insoluble by previously steaming and thus
form an inseparable compound with the fibre.
My correspondents have now found that in order to obtain the intended effect,
the applied resisting styles need not be steamed, and the possibility thus created
of effecting a subsequent removal of the albumen or the incrusting protecting
substances is in many cases a great advantage of the present invention.
As the silk-like gloss produced on tissues in the form of patterns according to
this method is very durable, such cloths may be afterwards dyed, printed, steamed,
and washed without danger to the gloss.
It is likewise possible to produce the most varied printing effects with durbale
silk-gloss by the addition of mordants or dyestuff's to the resisting styles or to
the mercerizing soda-lye.
The printing of the resisting styles and the mercerizing may be done separately
or in succession on the printing machine; in the latter case, the printed cloth on
leaving the roller is stretched by means of an appropriate stretching apparatus.
The washing in a stretched state is continued until the inner tension of the
fibre has ceased.

page_text: Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of this invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I claim is :-
The production of white or coloured pattern gloss effects on cotton or linen stuffs
mercerised in a state of tension.
1. By direct printing of thickened caustic lyes, with or without addition of
mordants and dyestuffs.
2. By neutralising the mercerising effect by printing with substances which
neutralise the mercerising action of the caustic lycs, these substances acting partly
by coagulation such as albumen, caseine etc. or partly by neutralisation or pro-
tecting incrustation such as aluminium, zinc or manganese or chrome salts etc.,
organic acids, oxides soluble in alkalies, oxides of zinc, aluminium, chromium,
with or without addition of mordants and dyestuffs.
Dated this 24th day of September 1897.
ABEL & IMRAY,
Agents for the Applicant.