Improvements in the Manufacture of Silk or other Hats.
Year: 1890

page_text: Date of Application, 31st Jan., 1890
Complete Specification Left. 19th July, 1890-Accepted, 13th Sept., 1890
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Silk or other Hats.
I, JAMES VALENTINE WARE of 50 Albert Street, St. Paul's, Bristol, Hat
Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to a novel method of manufacturing rigidly elastic silk or
other hats to conform to the head without pressure.
For the purpose of my invention I employ the materials generally used in the
trade for making gossamer hats, with the addition of paste and gutta porcha tissue
or substitues. The distinction from other methods being the keeping of gossamer in
a peculiar state of rigid elasticity. This is done by making a gossamer body
(composed of calico or other substances) which receives local treatment extending
irregularly over about one and a half inches, brim and crown inclusive, more or less
as required. This local treatment takes the form of gradation both in the crown
covers of calico and in the style of slinging the brim covers on.
The brim is attached to the crown by fewer substances than is the common
practice, the extra strength being acquired by slinging calico from the outer edge
of the brim, round the foundation brim substances (as many as desired) but not
attaching these substances to the crown. The brim is then extra strong at the
edges, and getting lighter inwards; the crown being light in the band and stouter
upwards. Patches of gossamer of any required strength are added fore and aft of
the brim and attached to the crown to make firm fronts. In this state the body of a
hat is rigid but elastic, and to maintain this quality in the finished hat a strip of
gutta percha tissue or a suitable substitute about three quarters of an inch in width is
wound round the band of the crown in the form of a ring after varnishing the body.
This ring supplies the requisite strength, mellows the band and aids the maintainence
of the general elasticity.
In putting on the merino or other substances for "unders" the part inside the
crown is stuck with paste or some other suitable medium that will not increase the
rigidity beyond the limit of elasticity.
By this method gossamer is kept rigidly elastic in that part of the hat which
comes in contact with the head, while at the same time it is thoroughly stiffened and
ironed until the substances feel crisp and metallic.
As my invention is capable of some modifications without departing from the
general principles thereof I do not restrict myself to materials or dimensions, or to the
precise forms or placement of the various parts thereof.
Dated this 30th day of January 1800
RAYNER & CASSELL,
37, Chancery Lane, London, Agents for the Applicant.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Silk or other Hats.
I JAMES VALENTINE WARE of 50 Albert Street St. Paul's Bristol Hat
Manufacturer do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement:-
My invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of silk and other hats,
and has for its object to produce an elastic and yet rigid hat, that is to say a hat
which will yield sufficiently to adjust itself to the shape of the head without exerting
any undue pressure thereon.
My invention consists in adding to the ordinary materials used in making gossamer

page_text: hats, paste, and gutta percba tissue or substitutes therefor the essential feature of my
improved manufacture, being to impart to the gossamer forming the body of a hat a
peculiar state of elastic rigidity. This result is obtained by making a body of calico
or other similar substance, treated in the manner hereunder described, such
treatment extending in an irregular manner from the band to the brim according to
the strength required. This treatment takes the form of a graduation in the crown
covers of calico and varies from to of an inch, the brim covers being applied in
the following manner. The brim is attached to the crown by means of two or more
substances, and hence by a lesser number than heretofore, extra strength being
obtained by applying calico from the outer edge of the brim around the material
forming the foundation of the same, the slings or bands of calico not being attached
to the crown. Thus extra strength is imparted to the edges of the brim, which are in
part attached around the band, the crown being light in the band but thicker at its
upper part while strips or patches of gossamer of suitable strength are applied on the
front and rear part of the brim and bind the latter to the crown. These slings or
bands of calico may be omitted in the case of extra light hats, additional stiffening
being applied upon the outer brim as an equivalent. To maintain the elastic and rigid
condition of a hat manufactured according to my invention care must be taken in
finishing or applying the silk or other material to the body of the hat, the ordinary
method being used for this purpose but with this difference, that after having
varnished the body, a strip of gutta percha or other similar resilient material
about of an inch in width should be applied in the form of a ring around the crown
band, this ring supplying the deficiency of calico in this part, softening the band and
contributing to the maintenance of the elastic state of the hat, as the merino lining is
applied, the inside of the crown should be smeared with paste or other convenient
adhesive material in suitable quantity, not to impair the elasticity thereof.
Should too much stiffening have been used, the part encircling the head should be
rubbed until elasticity is induced by friction.
According to my improvements, I produce hats which although being thoroughly
flexible, are yet rigid and formed of crisp and metallic substances when properly
stiffened and ironed.
In the accompanying drawings Fig. 1 represents a diagramatic view of a section
of a hat constructed according to my invention. Fig 2 being a similar view of a
portion of a hat as hitherto constructed. a b c are the covers of calico or other
substance forming the crown or body of the hat. These covers are graduated in length
as shewn at a 6 which graduation varies from to of an inch dependent on the
strength of the crown covers, and in the style of slinging on the brim covers, de are
the substances forming the foundation of the brim, and fis a substance which may be
of calico slung around d and e from the outer edge of the brim, but not attached to the
crown c, for giving extra strength g is a strip of gutta percha, which is placed around
the band of the crown in the form of a ring, after varnishing the body, which ring
supplies the deficiency of calico in that part and aids the maintenance of the elastic
state. The break between a¹ and d is filled up with gutta percha when the outer
material forming the body is stuck on. Fig. 3 shews a section of the portion of the
hat that presses against the head of the wearer according to my improvements, whilst
Fig. 4 is a similar section representing the pressure of a hat as hitherto constructed
and shewn in Fig. 2.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
The improvements in the manufacture of hats, substantially as hereinbefore
deen bed and for the nurnose sat torth
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Dated this 18th day of July 1890.
RAYNER & CASSELL,
37, Chancery Lane, London, W.C., Agents for the Applicant.