IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES FOR BOOTS AND SHOES
Year: 1876

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Henry Bateman Goodyear, of the City of Paris, in the
Republic of France, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES
FOR BOOTS AND SHOES." A communication from abroad by Charles Goodyear,
junior, of the City of New York, United States of America.
"
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Henry Bateman Goodyear
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 13th April 1876.
HENRY BATEMAN GOODYEAR, of the City of Paris, in the Republic of France,
"IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES FOR BOOTS AND SHOES." A communication
from abroad by Charles Goodyear, junior, of the City of New York, United States
of America.
This Invention relates to that class of boot and shoe sewing machines in which
a circularly curved needle is used, and which are designed to sew inseams or welts
in welted boots or shoes, and also for sewing what are known as
consists-
"
turns," and it
First. In the use of an awl or piercing instrument to penetrate the sole trans-
versely to the path of the awl or needle, so as to pin the sole in its place, and hold
the "between substance" of the sole firmly, while the needle is piercing the work
and tightening the stitch.
Secondly. In the combination with an awl and needle of a third piercing device,
operating transversely to the others, and near the path of the same, to prevent the
stitch from pulling through or breaking out, and to keep the same in its place.
Thirdly. In giving to the welt guide a positive motion away from the shoe
intermittently between each stitch.
Fourthly. In so regulating the said motion of the welt guide that it shall move
away from the shoe a uniform distance irrespective of variations in the thickness
of the upper.
Fifthly. Of an arrangement of locking devices for locking and releasing the back
or edge and wélt guages.
Sixthly. Of an arrangement for regulating the length of the loop according to
the thickness of the work to be sewn.
[Prian Cr

page_text: Seventhly. In combination with a circular awl and needle, mounting the edge
or welt guide upon a slide, moving to and from the work at a suitable angle with
reference to the last instead of concentrically with the needle.
Eighthly. In mounting the awl in such a manner that it will have an independent
oscillating or tipping motion.
One of the difficulties which have been experienced.in all machines of this class
hitherto is that in sewing a heavy upper to a very poor or spongy insole the stitch
is liable to pull through or tear away the fibres of the "between substance" (or
that portion of the sole lying between the inner and outer channels of the sole, and
to which the upper is united in sewing), sometimes also when the stock is the
reverse of spongy, and is very close and dry or when there is a lack of toughness
in the fibres composing the "between substance" the stitches will break away, as in
sewing a piece of new cloth to an old garment.
According to this Invention this difficulty is overcome by the use of an instru-
ment similar to the point of a pegging awl, so arranged as to penetrate the
"between substance" transversely close to the path of the sewing awl and needle
intermittently between each stitch, the motion of this "awl point" being so timed
as to pierce the "between substance" perpendicularly just after the feed motion
takes place and before the passage of the needle through the "between substance,"
where it remains until the needle has receded, carrying with it the loop and
tightening the stitch, the effect of this being that the "awl point "serves to pin or
fasten the fibres of the between substance in their place, and forms of itself a point
of resistance around which the thread is drawn, and toward which the upper or the
upper and welt, as the case may be, are drawn.
It will be seen that it is immaterial how loose and spongy the stock may be
when this "awl point" is through the between substance, as it effectually holds
the seam in its place, and prevents the thread from cutting or tearing through or
from pulling the seam out of place toward the edge of the sole.
Another beneficial effect of this "awl point "is that it holds the shoe much
more steady while sewing, for while the channel guide has heretofore been the only
point of support for the shoe against the thrust of the needle in front on one side
of the needle this "awl point" forms a much needed support on the opposite side
of the needle, both against the thrust of the needle in one direction and the pull
or strain of the needle in drawing the stitch in the other direction.
It is also proposed to employ a circularly curved awl, operating in the
inside channel of the sole as a feeding device in combination with a channel
gauge.
This awl, moreover, performs the function of piercing the hole through the
between substance so as to relieve the needle, and serves to hook into and hold
the work up to its place until the needle is just about to enter the work, which is
one of its most important functions.
The awl may, if desired, be mounted upon a pivot with a hole slotted above in
the flat portion of its shank with a pin in the said slot, a spring being employed
to cause the awl to assume a certain position with its point depressed downwards
while out of the work, so that its tendency will be to strike the very bottom of
the channel in sewing, when however it strikes with sufficient force to overcome
the action of the spring, the point of the awl is deflected by the tendency of the
awl to turn on its pivot, so that instead of going deeper into the leather it will
assume a different course and point in a more upward direction, the amount of
this deflection being governed by the length of the slot.
Another feature of this Invention consists as before mentioned in giving to the
edge or welt guide a positive motion away from the shoe intermittently between
each stitch.
In the turn machines heretofore made it has been usual to apply a similar motion
to the edge gauge for the purpose of plaiting in the looseness of the upper around
the toe, but this improvement is distinguished from that as herein-after described
hereto-
and relates more particularly to the sewing of welts rather than turn shoes;

page_text: fore the welt guide has been mounted concentrically with the needle in such a
manner as to cause the welt to bear at all times with a yielding pressure against
the shoe, the objection to this plan being, that in cases where the shoe did not fit
the last, or was imperfectly lasted, any fullness of the upper would by the action of
the welt guide rubbing against it form into a plait or fold, and cause imperfect work
by giving to the welt guide a slight motion away from the shoe at each stitch; this
tendency is avoided. This improvement has for its object still further and more
important results.
Experience has shewn that in sewing welts there is a tendency to sew the welt
with too much fullness in the shank of the shoe, while it would often be drawn
very tight around the toe so as to curl up, whereas it is very desirable that the welt
should lie flat and be drawn with an even tension all around the shoe. In sewing
shoes with box toes or heavy tips this difficulty has been more apparent than in
work where the thickness of the seam is uniform, because the welt guide would rub
closer to the upper where the work was thickest. It is found, however, that by
giving to the welt guide a motion that is proportioned to or governed by the
thickness of the seam or of the upper, so that it would be thrown from the work
equally distant where the stock is thickest the difficulties stated are entirely
overcome.
.
This object is effected by the use of a lever mounted upon a pivot or stud and
the upper end of which lever is provided with a roller stud operating in a suitable
cam groove, whilst to its lower end is attached a pawl or ratchet lever one end of
which rests upon a toothed plate fastened by screws to the sliding bar of the welt
or edge guide. Under the pawl is the device which positively governs the amount
of throw or the motion of the welt guide away from the work. It consists of a
short lever working loose upon a pivot at one end, the opposite end rests upon an
incline on the upper surface of the sliding bar so that as this bar slides out or in
the end of this lever is raised or lowered by the action of the incline. The curved
surface on the under side of the pawl as it slides upon or over the end of the short
lever before mentioned will thus be governed in its action as regards catching in
the teeth or notches in the plate in an obvious manner.
The improved devices for positively locking the back gauges (of which there are
two) while the needle is piercing the work and tightening the stitch are arranged
in the following manner :-One of the back guages is intended to press at all times
against the shoe with a yielding pressure, but it is rigidly locked at the intervals
above mentioned by the action of a detent or ratchet which is actuated by a cam
motion and is lifted from or dropped upon a toothed segment mounted upon a pivot.
The other guage carries the welt guide and is set at such an angle with reference
to the work as is best calculated to lay the welt properly in its place. This welt
guide is so arranged as not only to have a positive motion toward and away from
the work but at the time the stitch is being taken through the welt it is pressed firmly
against the upper and sole, so as to relieve the needle of the strain which would be
required to draw these parts firmly together; connected with this gauge is another
locking device similar to the one before described, both being actuated simultaneously
by the same cam through the intervention of a forked lever.
The awl lever is pivoted upon a slide which is moved laterally back and forth
the length of the stitch in connection with the channel gauge by the awl feed lever,
both the awl lever and the channel gauge being suitably mounted upon the slide
and moving with it. The channel gauge has also a slight out and in motion, so as
to relieve its point from pressing too close in the bottom of the channel in its
backward motion before feeding the shoe forward.
The lever which imparts motion to the needle segment is so arranged that its
pivot may be moved in order to place it at a greater or less distance from its actuating
roller stud, whereby the throw of the needle may be varied and the loop thus made
longer or shorter according to the thickness of the material to be sewed.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said Henry Bateman Goodyear in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
30th September 1876.
HENRY BATEMAN GOODYEAR, of the City of Paris, in the Republic of France,
"IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES FOR BOOTS AND SHOES." A communication
from abroad by Charles Goodyear, junior, of the City of New York, in the United
States of America.
The said Invention relates to that class of boot and shoe sewing machines in
which a circularly curved needle is used, and which are designed to sew inseams or
welts in welted boots or shoes, and also for sewing what are known as "turns," and
it consists of the several improvements herein-after described and illustrated by the
Figures on the accompanying Sheet of Drawings, to which I shall now proceed to
refer.
Figure 1 of the accompanying Drawings represents a front view of the machine ;
Figure 2 is a side view from the left, showing the arrangement of the back gauges
with the devices for intermittently locking them, showing also the arrangement of
the "awl point" herein-after described for holding the "between substance" of the
sole in its place. Figure 3 is a side view from the right of the machine.
machine is usually mounted upon an iron column or stand, and is driven by a foot
*treadle with connecting rod and fly wheel, or by steam power as preferred.
This
Similar letters of reference indicate corresponding parts in all the Figures.
Before proceeding to mention the special features of this Invention I will give a
general description of the principal parts of the machine as indicated by the letters
and figures upon the Drawings. A is a cast-iron base having arms projecting
upward on each side to receive and support the pillar posts B, B, on the upper ends
of which are the bearings for the driving shaft C, upon which the actuating cams
a, a, a, of the machine are mounted.
Upon the central portion of the base A, under the cams, is fitted another casting
of a suitable form to receive and support the principal levers and working parts of
the machine, this casting is indicated by the letter D.
] is a circularly curved needle mounted in an oscillating needle segment, and
supported by a guide or support 2, which is mounted upon the same centre as the
needle, and works concentrically with it. The curved awl 4 is best shewn in
Figure 3, in connection with the channel guide 18. 6 in Figure 2 is the "awl
point" herein-after described for piercing transversely the "between substance" of
the sole, such awl point being held by a set screw in the sliding bar 7, which is
operated up and down by the eccentric 8 through the connecting link S' and the
edge guage lever 9, the motion of which is so timed as to push the edge gauge or
welt guide E back away from the shoe intermittently at each stitch while the feed
motion is taking place. H is the looper lever mounted upon a universal joint 22,
and actuated by a combined cam groove and surface cam and the spring 23 in such
a manner as to carry the thread completely around the point of the needle and lay
the thread properly in its barb. J is the awl lever which is pivoted upon the slide
19, which is moved laterally to and fro the length of the stitch in connection with
the channel gauge 18 by the awl feed lever L; both the awl lever and the channel
gauge being suitably mounted upon the slide 19 and moving with it. The channel
gauge has also a slight out and in notion, so as to relieve its point from pressing too
close in the bottom of the channel in its backward motion before feeding the shoe
forward.
The lever which imparts motion to the needle segment is represented in dotted
lines in Figure 3 by the letter K. By having its pivot 20 made moveable so as to
place it at a greater or less distance from its actuating roller stud 21 the throw
of the needle may be varied and the loop thus made longer or shorter according to
the thickness of the material to be sewed. The out and in motion of the awl is
produced by the action of the lever I...

page_text: One of the difficulties which have been experienced in all machines of this class
hitherto is that in sewing a heavy upper to a very poor or spongy insole the
stitch is liable to pull through, or tear away the fibres of the "between substance"
(or that portion of the sole lying between the inner and outer channels of the sole,
and to which the upper is united in sewing), sometimes also when the stock is
the reverse of spongy and is very close and dry, or when there is a lack of toughness
in the fibres composing the "between substance," the switches will break away as
in sewing a piece of new cloth to an old garment.
The first feature of this Invention relates to a device for overcoming this difficulty,
which is effected completely by the use of an instrument similar to the point of a
pegging awl so arranged as to penetrate the "between substance" transversely.
close to the path of the sewing awl and needle intermittently between each stitch, the
motion of this "awl point" being so timed as to pierce the "between substance,"
perpendicularly just after the feed motion takes place and before the passage of the
needle through the "between substance" where it remains until the needle has
receded, carrying with it the loop and tightening the stitch, the effect of this being
that the "awl point" serves to pin or fasten the fibres of the between substance
in their place, and forms of itself a point of resistance around which the thread is
drawn, and toward which the upper or the upper and welt, as the case may be, is or are
drawn. It will be seen that it is immaterial how loose and spongy the stock may
be when this "awl point" is through the "between substance as it effectually
holds the seam in its place and prevents the thread from cutting or tearing through,
or from pulling the seam out of place towards the edge of the sole. Another
beneficial effect of this "awl point" is that it holds the shoe much more steady while
sewing, for whilst the channel guide has heretofore been the only point of support
for the shoe against the thrust of the needle in front, on one side of the needle this
"awl point" forms a much needed support on the opposite side of the needle, both
against the thrust of the needle in one direction and the pull or strain of the
needle in drawing the stitch in the other direction.
دو
The second feature of this Invention, which I will proceed to describe, consists in the
employment of the circularly curved awl 4 operating in the inside channel of the
sole as a feeding device in combination with the channel gauge. It will be un-
necessary to describe minutely the function and operation of this channel gauge, as
in the Specification to Letters Patent, No. 937, 71, granted to Daniel Mills, for an
Invention partly communicated to him by the said Charles Goodyear, junior, there
is described a channel gauge of this character, such channel gauge also acting as a
feed dog. In the combination of devices herein claimed the channel gauge will in
the absence of the awl feed the shoe, but not with so much certainty and precision
as the awl, that is to say, the feed is not so positive. This awl moreover performs
the function of piercing the hole through the between substance, so as to relieve
the needle, and serves to hook into and hold the work, up to its place until the
needle is just about to enter the work which is one of its most important functions.
I do not claim an awl feed simply in itself considered, as I am well aware that such
devices are common, but I claim the combination of the several devices relatively
to the work as herein-after mentioned.
Third. The awl may if desired be mounted upon a pivot, with a hole slotted above in
the flat portion of its shank, with a pin in the said slot, as indicated in the Drawing,
Figure 2, in which 4 is the awl with a broad flat shank; 10 is the screw or pivot;
10 is the slot with the pin operating as a stop; 11 is a simple spring which causes
the awl to assume a certain position with its point depressed downward, while out
of the work, so that its tendency will be to strike the very bottom of the channel
in sewing, when however, it strikes with sufficient force to overcome the action of
the spring, the point of the awl is deflected by the tendency of the awl to turn on
its pivot, so that, instead of penetrating deeper into the leather, it will assume a
different course and point in a more upward direction, the amount of this deflection
being governed by the length of the slot.

page_text: turn
و"
The fourth feature of this Invention consists in giving to the edge or welt guide
a positive motion away from the shoe intermittently between each stitch. In the
machines heretofore made it has been usual to apply a similar motion to
the edge gauge for the purpose of plaiting in the looseness of the upper around the
toe; but this improvement is distinguished from that as herein-after described,
and relates more particularly to the sewing of welts rather than turn shoes;
heretofore the welt guide has been mounted concentrically with the needle in
such a manner as to cause the welt to bear at all times with a yielding pressure
against the shoe, the objection to this plan being that in cases where the shoe did
not fit the last, or was imperfectly lasted, any fullness of the upper would, by the
action of the welt guide rubbing against it, form into a plait or fold and cause
imperfect work by giving to the welt guide a slight motion away from the shoe at
each stitch; this tendency is avoided. This improvement has for its object still
further and more important results.
Experience has shown that in sewing welts there is a tendency to sew the welt
with too much fullness in the shank of the shoe, whilst it would frequently be
drawn very tight around the toe so as to curl up, whereas it is very desirable that
the welt should lie flat and be drawn with an even tension all around the shoe.
In sewing shoes with box toes or heavy tips this difficulty has been more apparent
than in work where the thickness of the seam is uniform, because the welt guide
would rub closer to the upper where the work was thickest. It is found, however,
that by giving to the welt guide a motion that is proportioned to or governed by
the thickness of the seam or of the upper, so that it would be thrown from the work
equally distant where the stock is thickest, the difficulties stated are entirely
overcome. This object is effected by the use of a lever, shown in Figure 2, indicated
by the Number 9, which is mounted upon a pivot or stud 15. The upper end of this
lever is provided with a roller stud operating in a suitable cam groove, and to its
lower end is attached a pawl or ratchet lever 12, one end of which rests upon a
toothed plate which is fastened by screws to the sliding bar E' of the welt or edge
guide E.
It should be observed that the piece E in the Drawing represents what is termed
an edge guide in sewing "turns," as best shown in the Drawing, Figure 3, which
piece is fastened by screws to the sliding bar E¹, but in sewing welts this piece is
removed and a proper welt guide inserted in its place. Under the pawl 12 is the
device which positively governs the amount of throw or the motion of the welt
guide away from the work. It consists of a short lever 16, working loose upon a
pivot at one end, whilst its opposite end rests upon an incline on the upper surface
of the sliding bar E, so that as this bar slides out or in the end of this lever is
raised or lowered by the action of the incline. The curved surface on the under
side of the pawl as it slides upon or over the end of the lever 10 will thus be
governed in its action as regards catching in the teeth or notches in the plate in an
obvious manner.
The fifth feature of this Invention relates to improved devices for positively
locking the back gauges (of which there are two) while the needle is piercing the
work and tightening the stitch, as will be more fully described by reference to the
Drawings, Figure 2, in which E and F are the back gauges, F being a gauge which
presses at all times against the shoe with a yielding pressure, but is rigidly locked
at the intervals above mentioned by the action of the detent or ratchet 13, which
is actuated by a cam motion, and is lifted from or dropped upon the toothed
segment 14; E is the other guage referred to, which carries the welt guide, and
which is set at such an angle with reference to the work as is best calculated to
lay the welt properly in its place.
This welt guide is so arranged as not only to have a positive motion towards
and away from the work, but at the time the stitch is being taken through the
welt it is pressed firmly against the upper and sole so as to relieve the needle of
the strain which would be required to draw these parts firmly together. Con-

page_text: nected with this guage is another locking device similar to the one before described,
both being actuated simultaneously by the same cam through the intervention of a
forked lever G.
Having thus described and particularly ascertained the nature of the said
Invention, and the manner in which the same is or may be used or carried into
effect, I would observe in conclusion that I do not confine myself to the precise
form of construction heréin-before described and illustrated by the accompanying
Drawings, as the form may be greatly varied without departing from the principle
of the machine; but what I consider to be novel and original, and therefore claim
as the Invention to be secured to me by the herein-before in part recited Letters
Patent, is-
"
"
First. In a machine designed and adapted to sew "inseams" or welts and "turns
the use of an awl or piercing instrument to penetrate the sole transversely to the
between
path of the awl or needle so as to pin the sole in its place, and hold the
substance" of the sole firmly while the needle is piercing the work and tightening
the stitch, substantially as herein-before described and illustrated by the accom-
panying Drawings.
Second. The combination with an awl and needle of a third piercing device
operating transversely to the others, and near the path of the same, to prevent
the stitch from pulling through or breaking out, and to keep the seam in its
place.
Third. Giving to the welt guide a positive motion away from the shoe inter-
mittently between each stitch, substantially as and for the purpose herein-before
described.
Fourth. So regulating the said motion of the welt guide that it shall move
away from the shoe a uniform distance irrespective of variations in the thickness
of the upper, substantially as and for the purpose herein-before described.
Fifth. The arrangement substantially as herein-before described of the locking
devices for locking and releasing the back or edge and welt gauges.
Sixth. The arrangement substantially as herein-before described and illustrated
by the Drawings for regulating the length of the loop according to the thickness
of the work to be sewn.
Seventh. In combination with a circular awl and needle mounting the edge or
welt guide upon a slide moving to and from the work at a suitable angle relatively
the last in lieu of concentrically with the needle.
Eighth. Mounting the awl in such a manner that it shall have an independent
oscillating or tipping motion substantially as herein-before described and illustrated
by the Drawings hereunto annexed.
In witness whereof, I, the said Henry Bateman Goodyear, have to this Speci-
fication set my hand and seal, this Twenty-ninth day of September, One
thousand eight hundred and seventy-six.
HENRY BATEMAN GOODYEAR. (L.S.)