IMPROVEMENTS IN WEAVING AND MANUFACTURING FAST PILE FABRICS
Year: 1880

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to James Mellodew, John Mellodew, Thomas Mellodew,
John Lees, and John Hardy, all of Oldham, in the County of Lancaster, for
an Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN WEAVING AND MANUFACTURING FAST
PILE FABRICS,"
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said James Mellodew, John
Mellodew, Thomas Mellodew, John Lees, and John Hardy at the Office of the
Commissioners of Patents on the 7th June 1880.
JAMES MELLODEW, JOHN MELLODEW, THOMAS MELLODEW, JOHN LEES, and
"IMPROVEMENTS IN
JOHN HARDY, all of Oldham, in the County of Lancaster.
WEAVING AND MANUFACTURING FAST PILE FABRICS."
Our Invention consists of a peculiar arrangement and combination of weft
threads and warp threads by forming a twitch or lock, and using a variable pick
with this twitch or lock before or after the back pick, thereby making the pile
perfectly fast, securing a better face, and effectualy preventing the racy or twilly
appearance common to fast pile fabrics as made at present by any other method.
Our Invention is applicable to any length of float and to plain, twilled, ribbed,
or any other kind of back, and can be used in the weaving or manufacture of fast
pile fabrics from silk, cotton, worsted, flax, or any other suitable material.
In the existing system of weaving double or pile fabrics the threads are arranged
in such a manner that the "binding pick," the function of which is to unite the face
and back of the cloth, is taken at regular intervals; this produces longitudinal,
transverse, and diagonal grooves and ridges, giving what is technically known as a
racy, nicky, and twilly appearance to the cloth. By varying the arrangement of
the threads so as to take the binding pick at irregular intervals, or in other words,
by giving an irregular sequence and number of threads between the binding picks,
we prevent the occurrence of the racy, nicky, and twilly appearance, and produce a
cloth which is softer, more pliable, and drapes better.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said James Mellodew, John Mellodew, Thomas Mellodew, John Lees, and
John Hardy in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 23rd November 1880.
JAMES MELLODEW, JOHN MELLODEW, THOMAS MELLODEW, JOHN LEES, and
JOHN HARDY, all of Oldham, in the County of Lancaster. "IMPROVEMENTS IN
WEAVING AND MANUFACTURING FAST PILE FABRICS."
Our Invention consists of a peculiar arrangement and combination of weft
threads and warp threads by forming a twitch or lock, and using a variable pick
with this twitch or lock before or after the back pick, thereby making the pile
perfectly fast, securing a better face, and effectually preventing the racy or twilly
appearance common to fast pile fabrics as made at present by any other method.
Our Invention is applicable to any length of float and to plain twilled, ribbed, or
any other kind of back, and can be used in the weaving or manufacture of fast
pile fabrics from silk, cotton, worsted, flax, or any other suitable material.
In the existing system of weaving double or pile fabrics the threads are arranged
in such a manner that the "binding pick," the function of which is to unite the
face and back of the cloth, is taken at regular intervals; this produces longitudinal,
transverse, and diagonal grooves and ridges, giving what is technically known as a
racy, nicky, and twilly appearance to the cloth. By varying the arrangement of
the threads so as to take the binding pick at irregular intervals, or in other words,
by giving an irregular sequence and number of threads between the binding picks,
we prevent the occurrence of the racy, nicky, and twilly appearance, and produce a
cloth which is softer, more pliable, and drapes better.
In order that our Invention may be properly understood we now proceed to
more particularly describe how the same may be used or carried into effect, for which
purpose reference is made to the annexed Sheets of Diagrams, upon which the
variable pick is indicated by a X immediately following the number of the pick on
the Diagrams.
Diagram No. 1 (No. 2 the same, condensed) is one pattern of a ribbed or
matting back, called twelve shaft and thirty picks to the round. The first pick is a
back or binding pick, and floats or passes under one, over two, under two, over
two, under two, over two, and under one, end; second pick is a face or pile pick,
and passes over eight, under one, over one, under one, and over one; third pick is
a face or pile pick, and floats over four under one, over one, under one, and over
five; fourth pick is a face or pile pick, and passes under one, over one, under one,
and over nine; fifth pick is like the second; sixth pick is a back or binding pick,
and passes over one, under two, over two, under two, over two, under two, and over
one; seventh pick is like the third; eighth pick is like the fourth; ninth pick is a
face or pile pick, and floats over six, under one, over one, under one, and over
three tenth pick is a face pick, and floats over two, under one, over one, under
one, and over seven; cleventh pick is a back or binding pick, and like the first ;
twelfth pick is a face or pile pick, and passes under one, over nine, under one, and
over one; thirteenth pick is like the ninth; fourteenth pick is like the tenth; fifteenth
pick is like the twelfth; sixteenth pick is a back or binding pick, and like the
sixth; seventeenth pick, a faco pick, and like the second; eighteenth pick is a
face pick, and like the third; nineteenth pick is a face pick, and like the fourth;
twentieth pick is a face pick, and like the second; twenty first pick is a back or
binding pick, and like the first; twenty second pick is a face pick, and like the
third; twenty third pick is a face pick, and like the fourth; twenty fourth pick is
a face pick, and like the ninth; twenty fifth is a face pick, and like the tenth;
twenty sixth pick is a back or binding pick, and like the sixth; twenty seventh
pick is a face pick, and like the twelfth; twenty eighth pick is a face pick, and

page_text: like the ninth; twenty ninth pick is a face pick, and like the tenth; thirtieth
pick is a face pick, and like the twelfth.
This makes a soft and level face, and can be woven with eight shafts instead of
twelve the first, fifth, and ninth ends being drawn on the same shaft; the third,
seventh, and eleventh being also drawn on one shaft, and the remainder drawn on
separate shafts, as shewn in Diagram No. 2.
Diagram No. 3 (No. 4 the same, condensed) is another ribbed back woven with
twelve ends and thirty six picks to the round. First pick is a back or binding
pick, and passes under one, over two, under two, over two, under two, over two,
and under one; second pick is a face or pile pick, and floats over eight, under onc,
over one, under one, and over one; third pick is a face pick, and floats over six,
under one, over one, under one, and over three; fourth pick is a face pick, and
floats over four, under one, over one, under one, and over five; sixth pick is a face
pick, and passes under one, over one, under one, and over nine; seventh pick is a
back or binding pick, and floats over one, under two, over two, under two, over
two, under two, and over one; eighth pick is a face pick, and passes under one,
over nine, under one, and over one; the ninth, sixteenth, twenty third, and thirtieth
picks are all face picks, and like the second; the tenth, seventeenth, twenty fourth,
and thirty second picks are all face picks, and like the third; the eleventh,
eighteenth, twenty sixth, and thirty third picks are all face picks, and like the
fourth the twelfth, twentieth, twenty seventh, and thirty fourth picks are all face
picks, and like the fifth; the thirteenth and twenty fifth picks are back or binding
picks, and like the first; the fourteenth, twenty first, twenty eighth, and thirty
fifth picks are face picks, and like the sixth; the fifteenth, twenty second, twenty
ninth, and thirty sixth picks are face picks, and like the sixth; the nineteenth and
thirty first picks are back or binding picks, and like the seventh. The nicky and
racy appearance is totally destroyed in all fabrics woven to this Diagram.
Diagram No. 5 (No. 6 the same, condensed) is woven with twelve ends and forty
two picks to the round; first pick is a back or binding pick, and passes under one,
over two, under two, over two, under two, over two, and under one; the fifteenth
and twenty ninth picks are like this; second pick is a face pick, and passes under
one, over one, under one, and over nine; third pick is a face pick, and floats over
four, under one, over one, under one, and over five; the eighteenth, twenty eighth,
thirty fifth, and fortieth picks are like this; fourth pick is a face pick, and floats
over eight, under one, over one, under one, and over one; the thirteenth, twenty
fourth, thirty third, and forty first picks are like this; fifth pick is a face pick, and
floats over two, under one, over one, under one, and over seven; the twelfth,
twentieth, thirty first, and forty second picks are like this; sixth pick is a face pick,
and floats over six, under one, over one, under one, and over three; seventh pick is a
face pick, and passes under one, over nine, under one, over one; the tenth,
nineteenth, twenty seventh, and thirty second picks are like this; eighth pick
is a back or binding pick, and floats over one, under two, over two, under two,
over two, under two, and over one; the twenty second and thirty sixth picks
are like this. This is what is termed a skipped face, and is woven with a greater
number of face picks between the binders than the two previous Diagrams, giving a
very full and rich face to the cloth thus woven. It can be extended still further
if necessary, as is shewn on Diagrams Nos. 9 and 11.
Diagram No. 7 (No. S the same, condensed). This is a slight variation of No. 3,
being made thinner on the face by having one face pick less between the back or
binding picks.
Diagram No. 13 (No. 14 the same, condensed); this is what is termed a double E 1
fast pile with a broken or inverted back woven with twenty ends and thirteen
picks to the round; first pick is a back or binding pick, and passes under one,
over three, under one, over three, under one, over three, under one, over three,
under one, and over three; second pick is a face or pile pick, and floats or passes
over one, under one, over one, under one, over seven, under one, over one, under
one, and over six; third pick is a face pick, and floats over five, under one, over

page_text: one, under one, over seven, under one, over one, under one, and over two; fourth
pick is a face pick, and floats over one, under one, over seven, under one, over one,
under one, over seven, and under one; fifth pick is a back or binding pick, and
floats over two, under one, over three, and under one, over three, and under one, over
three, under one, over three, under one, and over one; sixth pick is a face pick,
and floats over three, under one, over one, under one, over seven, under one, over
one, under one, and over four; seventh pick is a face pick, and floats over seven,
under one, over one, under one, over seven, under one, over one, and under one;
eighth pick is a face pick, and like the second; ninth pick is a back or binding
pick, and floats over one, under one, over one, under one, over one, under one, over
one, under one, over one, under one, over one, under one, over one, under one,
over one, under one, over one, under one, over one, and under one; tenth pick is
a face pick, and like the third; eleventh pick is a face pick, and like the fourth;
twelfth pick is a face pick, and like the sixth; thirteenth pick is a face pick, and
like the seventh. This can be woven on seven shafts, as shewn on Diagram
No. 14.
Diagram No. 15 (No. 16 the same, condensed); this is somewhat similar to
No. 13, having a broken back, with a slight variation in the face picks, and is
woven with twelve ends and eighteen picks to the round; first pick is a back or
binding pick, and floats over one, under one, over one, under one, over one, under
one, over one, under one, over one, under one, over one, and under one; second
pick is a face pick, and floats over one, under one, over one, under one, and over
eight; the fifth, ninth, twelfth, and sixteenth picks are like this; third pick is a
face pick, and floats over five, under one, over one, under one, and over four;
the sixth, tenth, fourteenth, and seventeenth picks are like this; fourth pick is
a face pick, and floats over nine, under one, over one, and under one; the eighth,
eleventh, fifteenth, and eighteenth picks are like this; fifth pick is a face pick, and
like the second; sixth pick is a face pick, and like the third; seventh pick is a
back or binding pick, and floats under one, over three, under one, over three,
under one, and over three; the eighth, eleventh, fifteenth, and eighteenth picks are
like the fourth; the ninth, twelfth, and sixteenth picks are like the second; the
tenth, fourteenth, and seventeenth picks are like the third; thirteenth pick is a
back or binding pick, and floats over two, under one, over three, under one, over
three, under one, and over one.
Diagram No. 17 (No. 18 the same, condensed); this is like No. 13, being varied
only in the length of float, the face weft threads in this case floating over seventeen
warp threads, producing a much longer pile or plush.
Diagram No. 19 (No. 20 the same, condensed) is a slight variation of No. 15,
there being in this case only four face or pile picks between every successive
binding pick, producing a thinner face.
Diagram No. 21 (No. 22 the same, condensed) is another method of fastening the
pile or flush, and makes it much more fast than any other method hitherto
practised; first pick is a back or binding pick, and passes under one, over two,
under two, over two, under two, over two, and under one; second pick is a
face pick, and floats over six, under one, over one, under one, over one, under
one, and over one; third pick is a face pick, and floats over four, under one,
over one, under one, over one, under one, and over three; fourth pick is a face
pick, and floats over two, under one, over one, under one, over one, under one,
and over five; fifth pick is a face pick, and floats under one, over one, under one,
over one, under one, and over seven; sixth pick is a face pick, and floats under
one, over one, under one, over seven, under one, and over one; seventh pick is a
face pick, passing under one, over seven, under one, over one, under one, and over
one; the eighth and fifteenth picks are face picks, and like the second; the ninth
and sixteenth picks are face picks, and like the third; the tenth and seventeenth
picks are face picks, and like the fourth; eleventh pick is a back or binding pick,
and floats over one, under two, over two, under two, over two, under two, and over
one; the twelfth and eighteenth picks are face picks, and like the fifth; the

page_text: thirteenth and nineteenth picks are face picks, and like the sixth; fourteenth and
twentieth picks are face picks, and like the seventh. This is woven with twelve
ends and twenty picks to the round or gait over, but can be condensed so as to be
woven on eight shafts by drawing the first, fifth, and ninth ends on one shaft, the
third, seventh, and eleventh ends on one shaft, and the remainder singly or
separate shafts, as shewn in Diagram 22. Cloth woven to this pattern will be
exceedingly fast in the pile, having an extra twitch or lock on every face pick,
which renders it impossible to come out, and makes a better face with the pile
more erect.
Diagram No. 23 (No. 24 the same, condensed) is a variation of No. 21, being
extended to sixteen ends from twelve in the warp, and one pick less in the face or
pile between the binding picks.
Diagram No. 25 (No. 26 the same, condensed) is another variation of a ribbed
back woven with eight ends and twenty four picks to the round.
Diagram No. 27 (No. 28 the same, condensed) is also another variation of a
ribbed or matting back woven with twelve ends and twenty two picks to the
rounds, but is woven on an improved plan. Instead of having the same number
of face weft picks between every binding pick we have in this case four picks
between and five picks between alternately, as illustrated on the accompanying
Diagram, which will be readily understood by any practical weaver or designer.
Diagram No. 29 (No. 30 the same, condensed) is same as No. 27, being varied
only in the back, this having a broken or inverted back instead of the ribbed or
matting back.
Having now described the nature of this our said Invention, and the manner in
which the same is to be performed, we wish it to be understood that we do not
confine ourselves to the examples herein before described and illustrated on the
accompanying Diagrams, for although in order to avoid unnecessary multiplication
of the Diagrams we have shewn only ribbed and broken faces, we may apply our
improvements also to plain or calico backs and twilled backs with either three, four,
or five leaf twills, to all of which they are equally adapted, and that what we
claim is,―
The manufacture or weaving of improved fast pile velvets and velveteens, either
with plain or calico backs, twilled backs, ribbed backs, or broken backs,
substantially and as for the purposes hereinbefore described and illustrated on the
accompanying Diagrams.
In witness whereof, I, the said John Lees, for and on behalf of the said James
Mellodew, John Mellodew, Thomas Mellodew, John Hardy, and myself, have
hereunto set my hand and seal, this Sixteenth day of November, in the
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and eighty.