IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOBBIN NET OR TWIST LACE IN BOBBIN NET OR TWIST LACE MACHINES
Year: 1860

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Moritz Jacoby, of the Town of Nottingham, Merchant,
and Joseph Stones, of the Town of Nottingham, aforesaid, Designer and
Draughtsman, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE
OF BOBBIN NET OR TWIST LACE IN BOBBIN NET OR TWIST LACE MACHINES."
Sealed the 21st December 1860, and dated the 27th September 1860.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Moritz Jacoby and
Joseph Stones at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with their
Petition, on the 27th September 1860.
We, MORITZ JACOBY, of the Town of Nottingham, Merchant, and JOSEPH
STONES, of the Town of Nottingham, aforesaid, Designer and Draughtsman,
do hereby declare the nature of the Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE
MANUFACTURE OF BOBBIN NET OR TWIST LACE IN BOBBIN NET OR TWIST LACE
MACHINES," to be as follows:-
This Invention has for its object improvements in the manufacture of bobbin
net or twist lace in bobbin net or twist lace machines, and consists in a peculiar
mode of weaving the woven edges near the purls when making breadths of
lace with scollops in imitation of Valenciennes lace made on the pillow by
hand. For these purposes a number of independent warp threads are used
(according to the width of weaving intended to be made at the scolloped head),
which run longitudinally from end to end of the breadth of lace; these warp
threads are for the most part preferred to be wefted by two extra bobbin or
carriage threads, which it is preferred should be twisted where they come
outside of or beyond the longitudinal warp threads before mentioned, but such
bobbin threads may be used as weft threads to the longitudinal warp threads

page_text: above mentioned without such twisting together of the bobbin threads, or the
wefting may be otherwise performed.
And this Invention consists in producing that portion or angle which forms
the root of or which connects two scollops of tabby weaving, by combining the
warp and bobbin threads which at other times make the meshes with the
longitudinal warp threads above mentioned in such manner that when the
ordinary bobbin and warp threads cease to make meshes they may produce
weavings by combining with the extra longitudinal warps above mentioned.
And to accomplish this object it is preferred that the two bobbin threads
which have previously been used as weft threads to the longitudinal warp
threads should be conducted to and worked into the edge which carries the
purl, and that a succession of the ordinary bobbin and warp threads should be
taken for producing with the longitudinal warps above mentioned the woven
part which connects two scollops, and that the longitudinal warp threads should
be so worked as to pass alternately under and over the ordinary warp and
bobbin threads which have previously made the meshes in the locality where
the angle constituting the root of the two scollops comes, and which ordinary
bobbin and warp threads would, if there had been no scollop, have continued
to produce the meshes of the body or ground of the breadth of lace to which
the woven edge produced by the series of longitudinal warps is connected. By
these means a good woven edge will be produced near the head of scolloped
breadths of lace made in bobbin net or twist lace machines very similar to
Valenciennes lace.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Moritz Jacoby and Joseph Stones in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 27th March 1861.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, MORITZ
JACOBY, of the Town of Nottingham, Merchant, and JOSEPH STONES, of the
Town of Nottingham aforesaid, Designer and Draughtsman, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-seventh day of September, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty, in the twenty-fourth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto us, the
said Moritz Jacoby and Joseph Stones, Her special licence that we, the said
Moritz Jacoby and Joseph Stones, our executors, administrators, and assigns,
or such others as we, the said Moritz Jacoby and Joseph Stones, our
executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no

page_text: others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the term therein
expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within
the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and
Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOBBIN
NET OR TWIST LACE IN BOBBIN NET OR TWIST LACE MACHINES," upon the condition
(amongst others) that we, the said Moritz Jacoby and Joseph Stones, our exe-
cutors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under our or their
hands and seals, or under the hand and seal of one of us or them, should
particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in
what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be
filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and
immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that we, the said Moritz. Jacoby and Joseph Stones,
do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement thereof, that is to say :-
This Invention has for its object improvements in the manufacture of bobbin
net or twist lace in bobbin net or twist lace machines, and consists in a peculiar
mode of weaving the woven edges near the purls when making breadths of
lace with scollops in imitation of Valenciennes lace made on the pillow by
hand. For these purposes a number of independent warp threads are used
(according to the width of weaving intended to be made at the scolloped
head), which run longitudinally from end to end of the breadth of lace;
these warp threads are for the most part preferred to be wefted by two extra
bobbin or carriage threads, which it is preferred should be twisted where they
come outside of or beyond the longitudinal warp threads before mentioned,.
but such bobbin threads may be used as weft threads to the longitudinal warp
threads above mentioned without such twisting together of the bobbin threads,
or the wefting may be otherwise performed.
And this Invention consists in producing that portion or angle which forms
the root of or which connects two scollops of tabby weaving, by combining the
warp and bobbin threads which at other times make the meshes with the
longitudinal warp threads above mentioned, in such manner that when:
the ordinary bobbin and warp threads cease to make meshes they may
produce weavings by combining with the extra longitudinal warps above
mentioned; and to accomplish this object it is preferred that the two bobbin
threads which have previously been used as weft threads to the longitudinal
warp threads should be conducted to and worked into the edge which carries
the purl, and that a succession of the ordinary bobbin and warp threads should

page_text: be taken for producing with the longitudinal warps above mentioned the
woven part which connects two scollops, and that the longitudinal warp
threads should be so worked as to pass alternately under and over the ordinary
warp and bobbin threads which have previously made the meshes in the
locality where the angle constituting the root of the two scollops comes, and
which ordinary bobbin and warp threads would, if there had been no scollop,
have continued to produce the meshes of the body or ground of the breadth
of lace to which the woven edge produced by the series of longitudinal warps
is connected. By these means a good woven edge will be produced near the
head of scolloped breadths of lace made in bobbin net or twist lace machines
very similar to Valenciennes lace.
Having thus stated the nature of our Invention, we will proceed more fully
to describe the manner of performing the same.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWING.
The Drawing represents (on a magnified scale) a portion of the head of a
scolloped breadth of lace woven by the working of bobbin net or twist lace
machinery arranged to work according to our Invention. a, a, a, represents the
scolloped outline where the scolloped head joins the meshes of the lace, which
meshes are made in the ordinary manner; a¹, a³, are a pair of extra bobbin or
carriage threads, which are arranged to work and weave with a series of s
extra warp threads c, c, and to produce a plain weaving at the scolloped head
of the lace, and such extra bobbin or carriage threads are caused to twist
together exterior of the weaving produced by them and the extra warp
threads c, c, and such twisting of the pair of extra bobbin or carriage threads
a', a', is caused to take place by their linking with other warp threads external
or beyond the additional or extra warp threads c, c, as was fully described in
the Specification of a Patent granted to us and to James Redgate, dated the
7th June 1860, No. 1406. At the same time we would remark, that
although we prefer that such twisting of the two extra bobbin threads should
take place external of the weaving produced by them and the extra warp s
thread c, c, such twisting may be dispensed with, and the extra warp
threads c, c, may be otherwise woven into a plain weaving.
We would state that the peculiarity of our present Invention consists in
the manner in which bobbin net or twist lace machinery is caused to work in
order to produce the angular part of the scolloped head marked x, y, z, which a
connects or forms the terminal parts or roots of the two neighbouring scollops
shown by the Diagram. The twisted purls d, d, are made according to any
of the ordinary well-known means. The extra warp. threads c, c, it is pre-

page_text: ferred should be on separate bobbins, more or less in number being used
according to the extent of weaving desired, and they are actuated by separate
warp
bars. The machinery is arranged to work the extra warp bars of the
warp threads c, c, in such manner as to cause the two extra bobbin threads
a', a', in their swinging from back to front and from front to back in suc-
cession, to pass under and over the succeeding extra warp threads c as if they
were two separate weft threads carried by two separate shuttles, the extra
warp threads c being shogged so as to open a fresh shed or passage between
them each time that either of the extra bobbin or carriage threads is swinging
from the back to the front or from the front to the back of the machine.
The lace or meshes beyond a, a, a, is made by the ordinary bobbin or carriage
threads and the ordinary warp threads, as is well understood, but as the width
of the lace or meshed part of the breadth of lace will require to be lessened in
order to produce the angular part x, y, z, some of the ordinary warp and the
ordinary carriage or bobbin threads will, in succession, cease to work with
each other and the neighbouring ordinary warp and bobbin threads to
produce meshes or lace, and as the pairs in succession cease to mesh, they
are caused to weave with the extra warp threads c, in place of and whilst the
two extra bobbin or carriage threads a¹, a', will for some time be worked into
the head or edge between the purls and the weaving made by the combined
action of the extra warp threads c, c, and the pairs of ordinary warp and
bobbin threads, as hereafter described. The first pair of threads e (an
ordinary warp and an ordinary carriage thread) are now caused to weave
with the extra warp threads c, the pair of threads e, by preference, twisting
together before and after weaving with the extra warp threads c, as is shown
by the Diagram; then this pair of ordinary or meshing threads will be
worked into the edge of the head, together with the two extra bobbin or
carriage threads a', a¹; then another pair of threads e¹ will cease to make
meshes, and will be caused to weave with the extra warp threads c, c, and
such pair, like the preceding pair e, will for a time be worked into the edge
with the two extra bobbin or carriage threads a¹, and so on with regard to the
other pairs of ordinary warp threads and ordinary bobbin threads e², e³, e, e',
or whatever other number of such pairs of ordinary warp and bobbin threads
may be used in making the angular part x, y, z. The half of the angular
part x, y, and z being thus produced by a succession of the pairs of the
ordinary warp and bobbin threads such pairs of ordinary bobbin and warp
threads will now be worked, so that they may cease to weave with the extra
warp threads c, c, and again in succession be worked to produce meshes
or lace work, by working with each other and with ordinary warp and

page_text: bobbin threads, in place of continuing to produce plain weaving by com-
bining with the extra warp threads c, c. When all the pairs of ordinary
warp and bobbin threads have been caused to return to the making of meshes
or lace work, and the part of the scollop which is more nearly parallel with
the meshes or lace part of the breadth is again to be made, the extra
bobbin or carriage threads a¹, a¹, are again to be brought into action to weave
with the extra warp threads c, c, as before; or, in place of such extra carriage
or bobbin threads a¹, a', it is evident that pairs of ordinary warp and bobbin
threads may be used in place thereof, as when making the angular part x, y, z.
In the above description we have spoken of pairs of ordinary warp and
bobbin threads, but when more than one ordinary warp thread is used to each
bobbin or carriage thread, the warp threads so employed will be caused to
mesh with other neighbouring ordinary warp and bobbin thread, and then to
weave with the extra warp threads c, c, when such ordinary warp threads
and their bobbin threads cease to make meshes or lace work. We would
remark that we are aware that it is not new, in making straight stripes or
tapes at the back edges and other parts of breadths of twist lace in bobbin
net or twist lace machines, to use extra warp threads, and to cause the pairs
of ordinary warp and bobbin or carriage threads continually to weave there-
with. In such cases, however, the pairs of ordinary warp and carriage threads
have not been used so as alternately to make lace or mesh work, and then
to cease to make lace work or meshes, and for a time only to make weavings
with extra warp threads, as is the case when working in the manner above
described; neither have such pairs of ordinary warp and bobbin or carriage
threads, when heretofore used, ceased to mesh and to weave for a time, in order
to be worked into the edge beyond the woven portion of a scolloped breadth
of lace, as is the case in regard to some or all of the ordinary warp and
bobbin or carriage threads when worked according to our Invention above
described.
In witness whereof, we, the said Moritz Jacoby & Joseph Stones, have
hereunto set our hands and seals, this Twenty-fifth day of March, in
the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-one.
MORITZ JACOBY. (L.S.)
JOSEPH STONES. (L.S.)