A NEW MACHINE OR IMPROVED MECHANICAL ARRANGE- MENTS OR COMBINATIONS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF STOCKINGS, VESTS, AND OTHER ARTICLES OF HOSIERY
Year: 1860

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to James Joyce, Wholesale Clothes Manufacturer, of
Birmingham, in the County of Warwick, and of Hinckley, in the County
of Leicester, and Abraham Morley, Gentleman, also of Hinckley, aforesaid,
for the Invention of "A NEW MACHINE OR IMPROVED MECHANICAL ARRANGE-
MENTS OR COMBINATIONS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF STOCKINGS, VESTS, AND
OTHER ARTICLES OF HOSIERY."
Sealed the 18th December 1860, and dated the 23rd June 1860.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said James Joyce and
Abraham Morley at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with
their Petition, on the 23rd June 1860.
We, JAMES JOYCE, Wholesale Clothes Manufacturer, of Birmingham, in
the County of Warwick, and of Hinckley, in the County of Leicester, and
ABRAHAM MORLEY, Gentleman, also of Hinckley, aforesaid, do hereby declare
the nature of our said Invention for "A NEW MACHINE OR IMPROVED MECHA-
NICAL ARRANGEMENTS OR COMBINATIONS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF STOCKINGS,
VESTS, AND OTHER ARTICLES OF HOSIERY," to be as follows (that is to say):-
Our new or improved machine or frame is somewhat analagous to the
wrought or straight down frame or machine now generally used in the manu-
facture of wrought worked hosiery, as the general frame or woodwork we do
not require to alter either in its proportions or general disposition.
The essense or important novelty of our Invention consists in the use of a

page_text: small wheel in machines or frames for the manufacture of wrought hosiery, for
the purpose of laying the thread under the needles for forming or making the
loop. This arrangement will enable us to dispense with the following parts
common to the description of machines or frames now in use for the making
of wrought hosiery, namely, springs, slea, comb, wire jacks, and jack sinkers,
lockers, locking bar, thumb plates, slur bar, and slur box presser, and back
presser, treddle for presser, falling bar, and half jacks, and by dispensing with
so many parts, and simply substituting the small wheel before named and a
newly modified presser, our machine or frame will be considerably simplified,
thereby rendering it less liable to derangement, and enabling such machines to
be worked much more rapid and regular than the machines or frames now in
use, as well as effecting a great reduction in the cost of construction.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said James Joyce and Abraham Morley in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 22nd December 1860.
COME
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, JAMES
JOYCE, Wholesale Clothes Manufacturer, of Birmingham, in the County of
Warwick, and of Hinckley, in the County of Leicester, and ABRAHAM MORLEY,
Gentleman, of Hinckley, aforesaid, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-third day of June, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty, in the twenty-fourth year of
Her reign, did for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant
unto us, the said James Joyce and Abraham Morley, Her special license
that we, the said James Joyce and Abraham Morley, our exccutors,
administrators, and assigns, or such others as we, the said James Joyce and
Abraham Morley, our executors, administrators, or assigns, should at any
time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times there-
after during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make,
use, exercise, and vend within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and
Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "A NEW
MACHINE OR IMPROVED MECHANICAL ARRANGEMENTS OR COMBINATIONS FOR THE
MANUFACTURE OF STOCKINGS, VESTS, AND OTHER ARTICLES OF HOSIERY," upon the
condition (amongst others) that we, the said James Joyce and Abraham
Morley, by an instrument in writing under our hand and seal, should

page_text: particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in
what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in
the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately
after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that we, the said James Joyce and Abraham Morley,
do hereby declare the nature of our said Invention, and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in
and by the following statement, that is to say:-
Our new or improved machine is somewhat analagous to the wrought or
straight down frame now generally used in the manufacture of hosiery, and
the general form of stand on which our machine rests does not require to be
different, either in its proportions or general construction, to the ordinary
stands now in use in connection with hosiery machines.
The essence or important novelty of our Invention consists in the use or
application in the manufacture of hosiery of a small wheel or wheels for the
purpose of laying the thread under the crooks of the needles for making or
forming the loops, and which wheels are well understood and commonly used
for the same purpose in circular stocking machines; but in that case tho work
produced is seamless and uniform in its dimensions, and differs inaterially
from the description of work we intend to produce by our improved machine.
The application of this wheel, in combination with an improved arrangement
(self-acting or otherwise) for forming the side or selvedge loops, enables us to
dispense with the following parts common to the machines or frames now
in use for the making of hosiery, namely, springs, slea, comb, wire, jacks
and jack sinkers, lockers, locking bar, thumb plates, slur box and back
presser, treddle for presser, falling bar and half jacks, and by dispensing with
so many complicating parts (which are mainly required to produce the result
we obtain by the use of the wheel, and our modified presser before named) we
are enabled to considerably simplify such machines, thereby rendering them
less liable to derangement, and capable of being constructed at considerably
less cost, as well as to be worked more rapidly, either by hand or steam power,
than the machines now in use.
But in order to be clearly understood as to the nature and character of our
Invention, we will proceed to describe the Drawings hereunto annexed,
reference being made to the figures and letters marked thereon, observing that
the same parts, as they occur in the several views and detached Figures, are
marked with the same letters of reference.
Figure 1 represents a front view; Figure 2 an end view, and Figure S a

page_text: top view of a modification of our improved machine, as arranged for making,
say, two stockings or other article of hosiery at the same time; but of course
such machines may be arranged for making three, six, or more articles at once
by increasing its length and adding the necessary attendant parts, in proportion
to the additional length, or separate articles desired to be made. The Drawing
as here represented is made to a scale of four inches to a foot, and some of the
parts are removed to avoid confusion.
A, A, are the end plates of iron united in the front by a strong lengthway
bar, which we term the needle bar, that carries the needles or crooks, and
which bar is marked B, B, and at the back by a bar extending from end to
end marked C, which is entirely obscured in the front view, (Figure 1);
the bar C is secured to the back main supports marked D, and which supports
terminate at the top with eyes marked E, E, and are secured at the bottom to
the plate A with screw bolts, as here shown, but any other mode of construction
may be adopted. Through the eyes E, E, the top back bar F, F, works, and
in the centre of this bar (which is strengthened up for the purpose,) the
bracket G is secured; and between the front ends of this bracket and the
bracket H a strong bow spring, marked L, is held by the set screw I; the use
of this spring will be hereafter referred to. To the ends of the back bar F
the end bars J, J, and J, J, are attached, which bars terminate in front in eyes
marked K, K, which work on pins secured in the parts marked M, M, which
parts continue down, and form the ends or supports marked N, N, for carrying
the sinker bar marked P, P, and which parts are united at the bottom by the
plate or bottom sinker bar marked O, O; the sinkers are thin plates of steel
forming the divisions and lying between the needles, as shewn in the end view,
Figure 2, marked Q. These sinkers extend down, and are held between the
plate or lower sinker bar O, and a back plate connected with it, which clip
their ends, and for the purpose of better maintaining or equalizing the
distance of the sinkers a rod is passed through them, shown also in the end
view marked A, and which rod forms the presser. At the back of the end
supports N, N, brackets are secured, shown in the end view, marked R, ter-
minating with eyes, into which a longitudinal bar, marked S, works by having
pins or axis formed on its ends, which bar is shown detached in a front flat
view at Figure 4; the end rails J, J, are further united on the top by the bar
T, T. In working the sinker bar and presser, so as to lower the presser, and
pull the work forward as each row added to the work it will be seen that to
meet this requirement the working or moving parts first derive their motion
from the joints or eyes of the back standards E, E, and, secondly, from the

page_text: joints or eyes M, M, of the ends or sinker bar supports marked N, N, and in
order that the carrier bar S, at the back of the sinker bar may maintain its
vertical position is the reason why it works on centres through the eyes of the
brackets R, R. The presser, sinkers, wheels, and carrier needles are held
back in position by strong belical springs secured to pins projecting from the
back uprights D, D, at b, b, and to projecting pins, marked e, e, in the ends of
the sinker bar supports marked N, N; we have shown one only of these
springs in position on the left hand side of the machine to avoid confusion, and
which spring is marked D, D. The sinker bar with its attendant parts are kept
or held up in the position here shown by the strong bow spring L exerting its
force vertically between the bracket G, which forms the back stay of the first
motion of the sinker bar and parts, and the bracket H, which is secured to the
bottom fixed rail connecting the end supports D, D, together, but any other
mechanical equivalent may be used in place of the bow spring; and in order
to correct the expansive force of the spring the vertical stops U, U, are applied
firmly secured on each side of the base or end plates A, A; these stops are
fitted with vertical set screws marked e', e', by which means the end top bars,
marked J, J, are restrained in their upward tendency in the desired position.
On the needle bar before referred to that connects the front ends A, A, together
another bar is secured standing edgeway at the back of the sinkers, and which
bar is seen in the front view, Figure 1, marked V, V, V, and in the end and top
view also marked with the same letter; on this bar a slide marked f works,
which may be formed in any suitable way, so as to ensure a smooth and steady
action, and on the ends of this slide angular brackets, marked g,g, are secured
rising freely over the top and front of the sinker bar P; to the fronts of these
brackets metal guides are applied with set screws, and which guides are
marked h, h, and on the tops of these guides smooth eyeletted holes are formed for
receiving the thread (as represented by the red lines) from the bobbins or reels,
and which thread is passed down through another eyeletted hole as shewn
distinctly in the front view, and from there through a small taper tube termed
the carrier needle to be laid up in the work as it progresses. From the
back plate of the slide f, a projecting pin, marked i is secured, the use of
which will be hereafter referred to. On the oscillating carrier bar S another
sliding clip marked j, j, is fitted, having vertical ears or lugs through which pins
or axes are placed, marked k, k, on which levers work, marked land m; to the
front of these levers the rods n, o, and n, o, are fitted, and which rods are raised
and lowered by set screws, and at their lower ends a pin is formed at right
angles with their vertical position for carrying the wheels p, q, and p, q, and

page_text: which wheels are removed from the end and top views to avoid confusion, but
are represented full size in front and edge view at Figure 5, and which wheels
are formed of a solid metal centre or boss, with thin blades of steel cut out
and applied in an obliquely radial direction around its periphery, as here
represented; and it will be seen, by referring to Figure 1, that the angle or
obliquity of the blades of the wheels are reversed, for the purpose and object
hereinafter to be referred to. The back ends of the levers to which the rods
carrying the wheels are attached are provided with lateral pins, as shown in
the top view, Figure 3, marked r, r, and r, r, for the purpose of attaching
helical springs, as shown in 'the end view marked s, and the back plate of the
clip j, marked t, t, is bent backward at its ends at right angles, for the
double purpose of providing a groove for the bar u, u, to slide in, which bar is
represented in a detached flat view at Figure 6, as also for supporting the pins
v, v, and v, v, for attaching the helical springs, so that the ends of the levers
1, m, and l, m, are always held down on the top edge of the back plate u, u,
and the edge of this plate is formed with reversed inclines marked w, x, and
w, x, for the purpose hereinafter to be described.
Figure 7 represents a detached back view of this part in connection with
the part t, in which it works, and which part extends down, and terminates
with a fork, as here shown, for clipping the pin i, which extends back from
the lower slide or clip f working on the bar V; the parts in this view marked
9 are the brackets for carrying the part h, h, before referred to, for guiding the
thread down to the needles W, as seen in the end view; and Figure 8 is
simply a top view of the last Figure, looking, as it were, from the back of the
machine.
We will now refer to Figure 1, and direct attention to a very important
portion of our improvements, namely, the bar X, X, which extends from end
to end of the machine, and is supported by the clips y, y, attached to the
lower sinker bar O, and to the bar X nicely fitted clips are applied for carrying
vertical pins or dividers, and these clips and dividers are marked z, z. The
extreme ends of the bar X rest on a bracket, as seen in the end view marked
Y, Y, partly shown in dotted lines, as it extends down and works on a pin or
axis secured on the insides of the ends marked A, A; the upper ends of the
parts Y, Y, are provided with a slot through which the pin passes that is
secured to the end pieces of the sinker bar marked N, N, for attaching the
front end of the helical springs D to. In the front view, Figure 1, two pawls
are represented marked Z and A¹; these pawls extend up for the purpose of
correcting their action, as will be hereafter seen. At the termination of the

page_text: needles on each side five dummy pins or needles are shewn marked ', and the
use of these dummy pins is for putting in motion the wheels p, p, before they
commence their work, the dummies c', c', elfecting the same for setting the
wheels g, q, in motion in like manner; or these dummy pins may be removed,
and a toothed piece of metal applied in their place, the latter from its sim-
plicity may be found preferable.
Having now given a general description of the parts in detail, we will
suppose that the machine, as here described, is placed upon a suitable stand of
iron or wood, and to be worked by steam or hand power as convenient. And
it will be readily seen, by men practically acquainted with machinery for the
manufacture of hosiery or any other mechanical operation, that by means of
bevilled gearing attached to the driving shaft with suitable cams that oscil-
lating and other motions may be obtained for giving effect to our machine,
which we will now describe as being put to work, first supposing that the ends
of the threads have been passed along around the needles to form the first.
row of loops, and that, now, the slides carrying the wheels and the carrier-
needles with the cotton are taken from left to right, it will be seen that the
cotton will first form a loop around the vertical points z, z, and as it is carried
along on the needles the wheels p, p, will follow after, and the obliquely radial
blades of the wheels will be found to present themselves parallel with the
needles, so that each radial blade will pass in succession between each needle,
and from the peculiar shape of these blades the thread will be pressed down and
advanced under the crook of the needles to the end of its action, when the back
plate u, in connection with the slide t, will be brought into action by the top
end or nose of the pawl A¹ coming in contact with the pin a' on the top bar
T, which will permit this bar to be pushed from left to right, thereby allowing
the inner end of the levers m, m, to pass down the incline a, a, so as to elevato
the wheels p, p, and at the same time the inclines w, w, passing under the
inner ends of the levers 7, 1, will cause the wheels q, q, Figure 1, to descend,
ready for the return stroke, when the sinker bar and pressers will be pulled
down and forward to finish the row, and in the descent of the presser, the bar
X, carrying the vertical points marked,, and 2,1, will also descend by the
action of the pawl Y, and from the bar working loose in the clips y, y, y, the
bar X is placed out of its vertical position, thereby allowing the points =,=,
and ',, to lean towards the front, but after the presser has done its work,
and returned with the sinkers and other attached parts to the position shown;
the points z,, rise, making a slight curve backward, so as to carry the cotton
back, that when the carrier needles begin to move from the right to the left,

page_text: the thread shall form a selvedge loop arounds the points a' and ', and as the
wheels 7, 9, are now down into action, the operation before described is again
repeated, terminating with the projecting nose of the pawl coming in contact
with a pin projecting backward from the bar T, as represented in Figure 1,
thereby permitting the plate u to be again shifted from left to right to allow
the wheels p, p, to descend to their work, and the wheels 9, q, to rise as before
described and exhibited at Figure 1. Thus, by the continuous passing back-
ward and forward of the slides, and the alternate rising and falling of the
wheels, and the descent of the sinker bar and presser with the points=,=, and
2, 1, so the work rapidly proceeds; and although we have described the
Drawings as made to a scale of four inches to a foot, nevertheless it will be
evident that frames for making vests or other wide articles must be of a much
broader size than here shown, and which may be done without at all affecting
the general principles here exhibited, the vertical points or dividers, ≈, and
,, at all times defining or regulating the parallel, contracting, or expanding
shape of the article required to be made.
The term wrought hose or hosiery implies that the width of the articles
made may vary, as, for instance, stockings require to be netted broader at the
top, to fit the calf of the leg, than at the part towards the ancle; and another
characteristic in wrought hose or hosiery is, that in its production it is
invariably netted in a flat state, having a selvedge on each side, so that it may
be joined together at the selvedge to complete the article. And this brings
us to the important functions performed by the vertical points =,=, and a', ',
and which points are secured in metal clips clipping the bar X, and in the
front of the clips projecting pins are secured, or other means, for the purpose
that, when it is desired to narrow the work, these pins are struck by a self-
acting motion, or brought into operation by the ordinary narrowing apparatus
now used in connection with wrought hosiery frames, so that by bringing the
points progressively towards each other at the time when the bar on which
they are placed has so far descended that the whole extent of the points are
below the needles, and these rising to their work, the narrowing will be pro-
gressively effected.
We have not thought it necessary to encumber the Drawing with the
narrowing apparatus now commonly used, because it is well understood and
known to hosiery manufacturers; but such apparatus may be conveniently
applied to our machine by extending the front ends of the plates A, A, or by
applying the proper bearings, so that the apparatus may work between them
in the same way in which such apparatus are now used; and although wo

page_text: contemplate making wrought hosiery by our improved machine, nevertheless
it is evident that by allowing the points z, z, to remain stationary, that straight
down work will be easily produced.
With this general description, we will observe, that the general details of
our machine, as here represented, may be considerably modified as to form
and mode of construction, without affecting the primary elements of our
Invention, or the general arrangement of the machine may be reversed in its
action, and yet preserve the utility of our improvements, as, for instance, the
levers for supporting and regulating the action of the wheels and the carriers
for the thread may be made stationary, and placed at the desired distance
apart, according to the width or size of the article of hosiery desired to be
made, and the needles, sinkers, and presser, and vertical points for forming the
selvedge may be put to work in a circular motion, as working on a centre,
moving alternately from one direction to the other, and this may be so
extended that, by increasing the diameter of the range of the action of the
needles, sinkers, and other motions, that many stockings or other articles may
be netted at one time, according to the size or general diameter of the
machine, provided sufficient intermediate space is left for the forward and
backward action of the machine, and the various motions, and additional
wheels for landing, pressing, and knocking over operations now performed by
the sinkers and pressers in the machine represented in the Drawing, and
necessary for effecting the general result.
A circular set of needles are represented in a flat and edge view at Figures
9 and 10, in connection with which the sinker and presser, if necessary, may
be as herein-before described and exhibited at Figures 1, 2, and 3, with their
attendant parts, with the exception that it must be made of the same curve as
here represented, or these Figures may form a segment of a large machine,
varying in size according to the radial distance from the centre of action, and
in which machine, as before stated, the number of segments may be varied as
desired.
Having thus given a general description of our Invention for the objects
and purposes herein-before stated, and the manner in which the same may be
carried into effect, we wish it understood that we do not purpose confining
ourselves to the general details, provided the essential elements of our Invention
are retained; but what we claim and wish protected by these our in part
recited Letters Patent, is,-
First, the general mechanical arrangements or combinations for manufac-
turing straight or shaped hosiery, as herein described and exhibited.

page_text: Secondly, we claim the application to such machines of the wheels exhibited
at Figure One, marked p and q, and separately at Figure 5, and in any
variously modified form in which such wheels may be necessary for effecting
the object herein-before stated, also the points 2, 2, and 2, 1, with their several
attendant actions for forming and regulating the selvedge loops.
In witness whereof, we, the said James Joyce and Abraham Morley,
have hereunto set our hands and seals, this Twentieth day of
December, in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and
sixty.
Witness,
WILLIAM SHAW.
JAMES JOYCE.
(L.S.)
ABRAHAM MORLEY. (L.S.)