IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES
Year: 1884

page_text: PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
▲.
I PHILIP MIDDLETON JUSTICE of 55 and 56 Chancery Lane in the County of
Middlesex Fellow of the Institute of Patent Agents do hereby declare the nature
of said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND
SHOES" to be as follows:-
This Invention relates to the manufacture of boots and shoes and more
particularly to the uppers thereof in the class of what are called "seamless" shoes,
that is to say in the class of shoes having only a seam joining the upper at the
heel.
The Invention consists, first of an improved method of forming an upper with
the counter and vamp all in one piece, and secondly it consists of an improved
shoe formed of one piece in the upper, without crimping and with a single seam at
the heel, the two quarters being of leather formed by splitting the vamp which is
preferably done at such an angle or bevel that the thicker portions of the leather
will form the lower part of the "upper."
The method of carrying out this Invention is as follows, it being understood that
the vamp retains its shape and is unchanged in. the continued operation of making
the shoe, excepting that it is preferably thinned down to correspond to the other
portion as hereinafter described. That end of the leather which is to form the heel
and ankle portion of the "upper" is split into two equal thicknesses of leather
down to the vamp, then the upper part or layer is cut on a curved line, so that it
may be laid over to say the right and form the right hand side of the upper..
The remaining portion of the upper part being separated may be shaved off
smoothly and thus be removed from the upper. The under side or layer of the
split portion is cut in a correspondingly reversed curved line, so that it may be
laid over to the left and form the left hand side of the upper. The under side may
also be shaved off smoothly and thus removed and a completo upper with the
vamp integral with the counter is formed out of a piece of leather with less surface
than that of the upper when completed. Further the two parts being turned up
at an angle to the vamp surface, the upper requires no crimping.
The leather may be dressed and finished in any well known way. The method
is the same whether a high or low boot or shoe is to be made. The upper is
pointed to the sole, and the shoe finished in the ordinary manner, the back edges
of the upper pieces being united in a vertical seam at the heel...
-Dated this Twenty-fifth day of March 1884.
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page_text: I, PHILIP MIDDLETON JUSTICE of 55 and 56 Chancery Lane in the County of
Middlesex, Fellow of the Institute of Patent Agents, do hereby declare the nature
of said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND
SHOES" and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement':
ما
This Invention relates to the manufacture of boots and shoes, and more
particularly to the uppers thereof in the class of what are called "seamless" shoes,
that is to say, in the class of shoes having only a seam joining the upper at the
heel.
3
The Invention consists, first, of an improved method of forming an upper with
the counter and vamp all in one piece and secondly it consists of an improved shoe
formed of one piece in the upper, without crimping and with a single seam at the
heel, the two quarters being of leather formed by splitting the vamp" which is
preferably done at such an angle or bevel that the thicker portion of the leather
will form the lower part of the upper.
"
'
The method of carrying out this Invention is shown in the accompanying
Drawings in which ;-
"
Figure 1 represents the form of the piece of leather from which the upper is cut.
Fig. 2 shows the form of this piece after the splitting and cutting has been
performed.
Fig. 3. represents the completed upper in plan.
In this Drawing A. represents the vamp and B the part which forms the
counters, these parts being shown in Fig. 1, as they appear in the blank as it is cut
from the leather without splitting. The vamp A retains its shape, and is unchanged
in the continued operation of making the shoe, excepting that it is preferably
thinned down to correspond to the other portion as hereinafter described.
The end B is split into two equal thicknesses of leather, down to the vamp on
line xx of Fig. 1. Then the upper part or layer is cut on the line y-y. of Fig. 1.
In Fig. 2 this upper part of the split leather, is shown as laid over to the right.
It forms the right hand side of the upper and is marked B'. The remaining
portion of the upper part is marked b, being separated from the upper part B, by
the line y-y. It may be shaved off. smoothly and thus be removed from the
upper.
The under side or layer of the split portion is cut on the line tt. and the
part B formed by this cut constitutes the left hand side of the upper.
The part 6 of the under side may also be shaved off smoothly and thus removed,
and a complete upper with the vamp integral with the counter is formed out of
a piece of leather of less surface than that of the upper when completed.
Further the two parts B' and B being turned up at an angle to the vamp
surface the upper requires no crimping.
The leather may be dressed and finished in any well known way. The method
is the same whether a high or low boot or shoe is to be made. The upper is
pointed to the sole and the shoe finished in the ordinary manner the edges *-*
and being united in a vertical seam at the heel.
Having thus described the Invention as communicated to me from abroad by my
foreign correspondent what I claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:—
The herein before described method of forming the upper of a boot or shoe
consisting in first cutting a blank in substantially the form shown and described,
-----

page_text: then splitting the leather preferably at such an angle or bevel that the thicker
portions of the leather will form the lower part of the upper and forming the
counters out of the split portions all substantially as described.
2. A boot or shoe upper formed of one piece split in the rear portion, the split
portion being cut to form the counters substantially as described.
Dated this 12th day of June 1884.