Apparatus for Compressing and Stitching Together Braids in Making Sandals and other Articles.
Year: 1894

page_text: Date of Application, 16th July, 1894
Complete Specification Left, 16th Apr., 1895-Accepted, 13th July, 1895
PROVISIONAL SPECIFIE
Apparatus for Compressing and Stitching Together Braids in Making
Sandals and other Articles.
I WILLIAM EDMONDS SAN GARDE Engineer of 107 Whalley Road Accringtou
n the County of Lancaster do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as
follows:-
It consists of a sewing machine on the principle of an ordinary Singer's machine
as far as regards the nature of the stitch it makes, but it is provided with an
horizontal instead of a vertical needle. This is carried by a needle bar working in
a pair of slides and actuated by a stud attached to it and which works in a slot in
the top of the machine the lower end projecting through and carrying a bowl
working in a grooved horizontal cam of suitable form for projecting causing to
dwell and then retiring the needle. The machine is also provided with a shuttle
motion the shuttle being projected and retired resting on its bottom and horizontally
at right angles to the course of the needle. There is also a ratchet motion for
driving a circular disc circularly when sewing the braid for making the toe and
heel of sandals and there is further a ratchet motion for driving a carriage carrying
the work laterally across the machine from side to side. These ratchet motions are
arranged to carry the work with each movement the length required for making a
stitch and they are suitably timed for working harmoniously with the needle and
the shuttle and the motions of needle and the shuttle are also suitably timed in regard
to each other.
Moreover the machine is provided with an arrangement for drawing a slack
thread under the thread and also one for drawing in the slack thread above the
needle and furthermore there is an arrangement for compressing the braids and
one for putting the necessary tension on the sewing thread being used and arrange-
ments for winding the thread on the spools and compressing the braid in suitable
forms. All the above arrangements may be on one and the same machine or if
desired in more than one machine and may be used for the stitching together of
braids for making sandals or girths or bands or other like purposes. The slack
thread under the needle is caused by a finger which moves to and fro crossing
the course of the needle. The arrangement for drawing up the slack thread
above the needle consists of a lever carried and actuated by the needle bar or
it may consist merely of a hook or stud on the needle bar with another on the
table of the machine between the needle bar and the bobbin carrying the thread,
the bobbin being weighted. The braid is compressed by means of one or two
screws acting on a mould or form in which the braid is placed, the screw
screws drive the mould or form against a back piece which is provided with
piercers which help to keep the braid in position in the form and prepare the
way for the needle to enter.
or

page_text: Apparatus for Compressing and Stitching Together Braids in Making
Sandals and other Articles.
I WILLIAM EDMONDS SAN GARDE Engineer of 107 Whalley Road Accrington
in the County of Lancaster do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in
what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement :-
It consists of a sewing machine on the principle of an ordinary Singers machine
as far as regards the nature of the stitch it makes but it is provided with an
horizontal instead of a vertical needle. This is carried by a needle bar working in
a pair of slides and actuated by a stud attached to it and which. works in a slot in
the top of the machine the lower end projecting through and carrying a bowl
working in a grooved horizontal cam A of suitable form for projecting causing to
dwell and then retiring the needle X. The machine is also provided with a shuttle
motion, the shuttle Y being projected and retired horizontally at right angles to the
course of the needle. There is also a ratchet motion actuated by eccentric D and
lever and catch G acting on a ratchet wheel F for driving circular part discs J
circularly when sewing the braid for making the toe and heel of sandals or other
circular stitching or by substituting a wheel and rack N for the bevils O it drives
a carriage H carrying the work laterally across the machine from side to side.
These ratchet motions are arranged to carry the work with each revolution of cam D
the length required for making a stitch and they are suitably timed for working
harmoniously with the needle and the shuttle motions and the motions of the needle
and the shuttle are also suitably timed in regard to each other.
1
Moreover the machine is provided with an arrangement L for drawing in the
slack thread above the needle and furthermore a motion for causing slack thread
under the needle. All the above arrangements may be on one and the same
machine or if desired on more than one-machine and may be used for the stitching
together of braids for making sandals or girths or bands or other like purposes.
The slack thread under the needle is caused by a finger V. on lever or rod M
which is moved to and fro crossing the course of the needle by cam C and
lever K. The arrangement for drawing up the slack thread above the needle
consists of a lever carried by pillar L which is fixed on and actuated by the
needle bar and moves with it. This lever carries a stud at one end which
works in a slotted bracket fixed to the top of the machine causing the lever to
rise and fall with the to and fro motion of the needle bar and to pull on the
thread which is passed through a hole in the upper end of the lever when it
rises and to slacken it when it falls.
·
The general. construction and operation of the machine may be seen from Fig. 1
to be as follows, the machine may be driven by means of a strap on the fast pulley
communicating motion to the bevils X which drive the needle bar U by the inter-
vention of the cam A. The shuttle crosses the course of the needle as in ordinary
sewing machines. In this machine the shuttle is driven to and fro by cam B on the
driving shaft and lever W which works with the cam B by means of a stud & bowl
fixed at one end of the lever W & working in the cam B. The notion thus given
to the needle bar U carrying the needle in the left hand end thereof and to the
shuttle crossing its motion complete the stitch. The work is carried on the
carriage H which is moved stitch by stitch by means of the cam D on end of
driving shaft acting on lever G Fig. 2 which is hung on stud E and the latch at one
end of lever G catches in the ratchet wheel F and moves the carriage H by the
intervention of the wheel and rack N, or if circular sewing is being done by the
intervention of the bevils O the circular carriage J Figs. 3 & 4 being substituted

page_text: for the carriage H. A slack thread is produced under the needle by means of the
cam C on the driving shaft and the lever K acting on the arrangement shown in
Fig. 5 which is fixed crosswise on the machine the lever or rod M carrying the
finger V is moved to and fro & causes the finger V in its passage to catch the thread.
The slack above the needle is drawn up and given off by means of the arrangement
shown in Fig. 6 which is fixed on the machine alongside the needle bar U the
pillar L being in the needle bar itself. This pillar carries a lever one end of which
carries a stud which works in a slot in that part of the arrangement which is fixed
to the machine. The motion of the needle bar causes this lever to rise and fall and
the thread being passed through one of the three holes shown in the lever is thus
drawn from the needle or given off to it. Experience shows that the upper and
under slack thread is necessary to prevent the breaking of the thread when the
needle passes through the braid. The braid may be held in position by hand or it
may be put into some suitable form and placed on the carriage H when sewing
laterally, or it is placed in the circular arrangement J Fig. 4, when sewing circularly.
When the circular arrangement is used the carriage H is removed and the circular
arrangement J, Fig. 4, substituted for it. This arrangement consists of two part
discs with raised flange each with a slot to allow free passage of the needle, the one
part disc standing on and being smaller than the other but both being fixed at the
centre and the work being pressed between the two flanges and held down by hand
or by a semicircular flat ring Z. The larger part disc has a small projection S,
which when the required number of stitches have been made comes in contact with
lever T at one end and thus brings the other end in contact with the knock off
handle I and stops the machine automatically by means of strap fork lever Q.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is
1. The general arrangement of the several parts for effecting the purposes
aforesaid.
2. The cam A for driving the needle bar.
3. The grooved cam B & lever W for driving the shuttle Y.
4. The cam C and lever K for driving the slack arrangement M.
5. The ratchet motions for the lateral and circular sewing stitch by stitch
consisting of the eccentric D with lever and catch G hung on stud E to drive the
ratchet wheel F. The rack and wheel N and the bevils O.
6. The circular arrangement J consisting of two part discs with raised flange
each with a slot to allow the free passage of the needle the one part disc standing
on and being smaller than the other but both being fixed at the same centre and
the work being pressed between the two flanges and held down by semicircular flat
ring fitting between the two flanges and fastened to them. The larger part disc
having a small projection S which when the required number of stitches have been
made causes the lever T to come in contact with the knock off handle and stop the
machine automatically.
DL: 12th dar of Anzil 1895
W. E. SAN GARDE,
Engineer, Accrington.