Improvements in the Method of and in Apparatus for Manufacturing Chenille.
Year: 1893

page_text: Date of Application, 20th Mar., 1893-Accepted, 8th July, 1893
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Method of and in Apparatus for Manufacturing
Chenille.
I, FRITZ WATZLAWIK of 76 Skalot zerstrasse, Berlin, in the German Empire,
Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention, and in what manner the
same is to be performet, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement :-
This invention relates to the method of and apparatus for manufacturing
chenille for use in carpets, curtains, tapestries, and like fabrics, and its object is
to produce a strong chenille which may contain a large variety of colours.
The method of producing the chenille is described with special reference to
Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, of the accompanying drawings the apparatus employed being
diagrammatically illustrated by Figure 5. The finished chenille consists
essentially of short parallel pieces of yarn stitched together so as to form a yarn
of pile or nap which is used as the weft in weaving carpets, curtains, and similar
fabrics.
r
This method consists in stitching together the threads a (Figure 1) which
essentially form the nap between a series of two strong threads of jute or
similar material by means of a sewing thread formed with a single chain stitch
each thread a being fixed by means of two stitches so that all the pile threads a
are firmly fixed between the two horizontal rows of thread, and form after being
cut parallel to the binding threads a cord which shews a nap at the bottom
as well as the top. The colours of the consecutive pile threads may be varied
to any desired extent and the number of the different colours that are used may
be very great so that the pattern of the pile cord or chenille may be extra-
ordinarily rich. If the threads a after being cut project equally far on both
sides of the binding cords the height of the nap on both sides is equal. It
is however possible to give the nap a greater height on one side than upon the
other and thus obtain great variety in the pattern of the pile cord. Chenille
made in this manner replaces the ordinary woven chenille and forms weft in the
weaving of chenille carpets, chenille door hangers, and similar fabrics. For this
purpose chenille is used or applied in the usual well known manner.
In the use
of the ordinary chenille binding wefts are necessary to form a ground to carry
and support the chenille but with chenille manufactured according to this inven-
tion such binding wefts are unnecessary as the strong threads lying on both
sides form these binding or ground wefts. In consequence of this the production
of such carpets or textures is essentially simplified since it is only necessary to
enter or introduce the chenille weft into the opened relay. A further advantage
is found in the fact that the texture produced in this manner receives a pile on
both sides which may be of different or equal height. Furthermore in the usual
chenille wefts owing to the bending in of the pile threads in the texture an equal
distribution of the pile is not obtainable which is the case with my improved
chenille cords owing to the vertical direction of the pile threads which also
absorb less material than formerly. The pile threads of the new cord or chenille
are firmly united which was not the case with the usual cords. Cutting or
stamping of the pile threads upon special machines or apparatus is done away
as the chenille is at once ready for use.
By doing away with the strong binding threads, b, and simply stitching the
pile threads a together between them-elves by means of the stitching threads e
(os shewn in Figure 2) and afterwards twisting the chenille cord thus obtained,

page_text: the second kind of chenille that is the twisted chenille is obtained which is also
used for weaving purposes, especially however in the tapestry industry.
The points mentionel regarding the greater firmness of the new fabric also
refer to this kind of chenille.
may be
As a further modification only one of the strong binding threads b
left out and the other one stitched to the pile threads a in which case again
chenille cords for weaving purposes are obtained.
The method of the present invention consists of the fact that pile threads a
(Figure 3) of convenient length are inserted in consecutive order between two
systems of parallel threads arranged at certain distances from each other
and stitched together and to the pile threads a in such a way that a band is
formed, the width of which is determined by the length of the pile threads
and having a system of binding threads which run in the longitudinal
direction, and of which the opposite top and bottom threads and respectively
are joined my means of chain stitches to the pile threads a.
If mow the land is cut open in the direction of the line between each two
pairs of binding threads and as many chenille cords are obtained as pairs of
binding threads have been used.
If, as in Figure 4, the strong binding threads are only used as guides and
the process is carried on as before with the only exception that now the binding
stitches are made between the guble-threads, cords suitable for twist chemille
are obtained. In the same manner a chenille cord with binding threads on one
Side only may be obtained. Figure 5 illustrates a diagrammatic representation
of the machinery employed for producing the pile-thread- or chenille.
The binding threads which are separated into a lower and upper system
are guides with the necessary tension through eyes and over guide rollers and
brought by means of rollers and into a horizontal plane so that a certain
space or distance remains between them which corresponds to the thickness of
the pile threads a.
"
The pile threads which are cut to equal lengths are put into this intermediate
space. For cutting off and inserting them mechanism is provided which grips
the end of the pile thread a by means of the tongs or grippers % rotating on
the axis d.
These tongs pull the thread along with them during their rotation upon the
axis and a second pair of tongs similarly mounted grip the thread a at the end
of the determined length and a pair of Shears following immediately behind the
second pair of tongs cuts off the thread. The tongs, the relative positions of
which can be adjusted or regulated according to the desired length of the pile
thread, participate continuously in the revolution of if and open when the pile
thread which is gripped by them has been brought into a
position for insertion
between the binding threads. At the moment when the two tongs open a
presser falls down and brings the pile thread a on to the grid or grating
support As the thread is not placed exactly in position it is furthermore
adjusted laterally together with by the mechanism indicated at T until it
registers with the threads a which have already been properly inserted between
the binding threads . After this process it is placed by means of a feeding
mechanism between the rollers i andre and thus between the binding
threads the presser in the meantime having been lifted. The whole system
of threads is then drawn over the fixed plate by means of the adjustable
rollers R.
f
The sewing of the pile threads a together or to the binding threads by means
of stitching threads is effected by means of the needles, which are guided up and
down and which are arranged side by side in as great a number as there are binding
threads in one system.
The oscillatory catchers g grip the loops formed by the needles below p for the
purpose of forming the chain stitch.

page_text: By means of the regulator rollers R alrealy mentioned, the finished band S is
conducted over the roller to the entting apparatas A which by means of rotating
discs fitted with sharp edges cuts the pile threads between the binding threads in the
direction of linea (Figure 3) whereby as many pile or chenille cords are obtained
as binding threads have been used above or beneath. The number of the threads a
which are offered with their ends y separately to the rotating tongs Z is 40, so that
just as many different colours can be used.
The choice of the colour is determined by a jacquard apparatus J the needles of
which are influenced by a pattern card P which latter at every revolution of the
axis d of the rotating tongs and shears (that is at every take-up of the pile thread
and insertion between the binding theads and vory two stitches of the sewing
needles a through the pile thread a) is moved forward the distance of one point of
the pattern unless a repenting apparatus connected to the jacquard apparatus
prevents the forward motion of the pattern card so as to cause the colour then
offered to remain. The pattern card is wound off from the roller 10³ and by
means of guide rollers conducted to the roller w. Hereafter is described
detailed action of the whole machine the different principal parts above mentioned
being described with reference to detailed drawings and under the following
sub-headings:-
:-
(a) relates to the rotating tongs Z and shears.
(b) relates to the presser K.
(c) relates to the adjusting apparatus T.
(d) relates to the feeder V.
(e) relates to the sewing apparatus n g.
() relates to the stuff regulator.
() relates to the cutting apparatus A.
(4) relates to the jacquard and repeating apparatus JN.
The rotating tongs shears and presser and the adjusting and feeding apparatus are
illustrated by Figures 6 to 23.
(4) Figures 67 and 8 illustrate the rotating tongs and shears and shew cross
sections in planes parallel to the lines C C looking in the direction of the arrow B
in Figure 5. The figures illustrate front views of the rotating tongs with their
accessories. The driving shaft f by means of an intermediate wheel rotates the
shaft d upon which is secured the rotating tongs. The whole gripping apparatus is
represented on a larger scale in different views by Figures 9 to 14 both in the
closed and in the open positions and consists of a discy to which two rails QQ'are
secured and which can be adjusted with reference towards each other in a circular
slot. These rails carry the two pairs of tongs Z Z of which the latter is provided
with the shears. Upon the end of the rail Q is firmly fixed the loop in which
the rod provided with under and upper fingers and 3 is capable of rotating.
A spring holds the rod in such a way that the lower finger stands vertically
to the plane of the rotating disc y. The rail Q also carries the bracket furnished
with a pivot upon which the tongs turn (see Figure 10 which is a view at right
angles to Figure 9). The blades of the tongs are each provided with an oblique
slot into which project pins upon rods which are guided by the bracket
Both rods are firmly joined to each other by the cross piece and the latter is
constantly drawn towards the centre of the discy by a spring (Figures 6 to 13)
which is fixed to the other end of the rail Q. This motion however is limited to
the position shewn in Figure 9 by the stop which turns upon the pivot situated
near the foot of the hoop . A spring ensures the cross picre engaging with
the catch or stop". The tongs are shown in the open position but are closed
when the lower finger 2 of the rod knocks against one of a series of radial
tubes (Figure 6) through which the pile thread a is guided. There are 40 of
these tubes upon the fixed frame disc G grouped in a semicircle so that 40
differently coloured threads can be supplied from their bobbins.
There is however only one of these tubes at a time directed radially; which tube
being determined by the jacquard and repeating apparatus to be described later on.

page_text: The tube therefore offers the beginning of the thread radially to the revolving and
open tongs Z.
When the finger & knocks against the tube r, the rod ' is turned somewhat to
the right (Figure 9) carrying with it the upper finger which moves against the
stop" The finger causes the disengagement of the stop by turning
it to the right. The spring" comes into action, draws the crosspiece and
the rods towards the centre of the dise and the pins ' fixed to the rods operate
the tongs thus closing these and fixing the beginning of the thread a as shown by
Figures 12 and 13.
The spring immediately restores the rod 21 and fingers and into the
original position vertical to the rotating plane, after the small tube ♬ has been
passed.
The second pair of rotating tongs 2 fixed to the rail Q is provided with
shear "and" (Figure 11). The construction of the parts that close the latter
is exactly the same as that of the rotating tongs 2, the position only of these parts
with relation to the rail Q' being different. Before the thread is cut off by the
shears it must be firmly gripped by the tongs. For this reason one blade
of the tongs and the shears are firmly fixed to each other whereas the other
blade can freely turn around the pivot of the shears and the binde of the tongs :
by means of a spring as well as by means of the pin and slot guide is compelled
always to project slightly in advance of the shear blade.
If now the shears by means of the spring tension of 2 are closed the tongs :*
at the next movement grip or arrest the thread a and through the further con-
traction of the shears by the shears come into action and eat through the thread
whilst the movable blade of the tongs ; then gives way, forcing back the spring
(Figure 14).
Tu Figure 6 both tongs are open and rotate simultanem-ly with the shaft d. In
Figure 7 the tongs Z have gripped the beginning of the thread and pulled the
thread from the hobbin through the tube until the second tong Zhave gripped
the thread near the tube and separating it as shown in Figures in which the rotation
of the tongs with the piece of thread stretched between them is shewn further
advanced. By altering or adjusting the rails Q and Q' in the slot of the dise q the
length of the thread can be varied according to requirements.
When the
The closed tongues must now be opened to release the thread in the position
shewn in Figure 8. This is effected by the two stop pieces 1 and Dwhich are adjust-
ably secured to the frame. Upon the rail Q (Figure 9) is a pivot for an angle
lever which is provided with a friction roller. The arm of the angle lever
is joined or hinged to the cross piece :* by means of a link
roller which in the closed state of the tongsis in the high position (Figure 12)
reaches the thumb piece D it is pressed down (Figure 9) whereby the cross
piece with the rods and pins are also moved down until the stop :" in
consequence of the tension of the spring " engages again as shown in Figure 9.
The blades have opened and remain open until the lower finger again meets
the short radial pipe r, if the colour of the thread is to be retained, or another tube,
if the colour is to be changed.
In the same manner the tongs 21 are opened with the difference that here the
stop 1ª lifts up the roller which in the closed state (Figure 12) is in the lower
position.
() When the thread has been released by the tongs as shown in Figure 8 it
must be beaten or held down quickly on to the grate e so that it does not fly side-
wise. This is effected by the flap or presser K which at this moment comes into
action. The operation is as follows-reference being made to Figures 15, 16
and 17). The driving axis gears by suitable means with the shaft which is
driven at the same speed. The shaft carries the excentric" which engages with
the lever the roller of which by means of spring is compelled to bear against
the excentric f.
By means of a cord or chain f the lever is joined to the angle arm of

page_text: the presser K. The excentric as shewn in Figure 15 holds the presser K in the
raised position until it is required to descend, the spring being held in tension.
If however the recessed portion of the excentric comes opposite the bowl upon
the lever the spring suddenly contracts and the presser K descends upon the
pile thread which has been placed upon grate e Figure 17 illustrates a plan of
this position of the presser K upon the grate with the intermediate pile
threads a.
(c) will now describe the apparatus by means of which the released pile
thread a may be adjusted to register with the threads already introduced between
the thrands h The pile thread a which is held down by the presser K does
not lie upon the grate in such a manner than it can be introdured directly into
the space between the rollers to and since in consequence of the constant
rotation of the tongs Z Z it has been moved slightly too much to the left as
shewn in Figure 18 by the dotted line a'. The proper position of the thread is
shewn in plan in Figure 17. This excess to the left is not always the same
however but the thread must always be put between the rollers to and in such
a way that its centre and ends correspond with those of the band that has to be
produced, thus all the pile threads a which are to form the band must lie in such
a way that all the ends on both sides are in a straight line. It is therefore
necessary in the first instance to give the held down pile thread a a correct middle
position. This is accomplished as shewn in Figure 8 by having a vertical finger t
which is hooked or pivotted to the lever pivoted at . By means of a rod t
the cam levert pivoted at t is joined to this lever . The lever is actuated
by an excentric upon the driving axis and this moves the adjusting arm t
forward and backwards.
"1
In addition the adjusting arm is acted upon by an excentric? upon the shaft
(Figure 15) which lifts the cam lever pivoted at 2 up and down and acts
upon the finger t" of the vertical rod and vertically reciprocates it.
The adjusting arm which is laid within the upper forked portion of the vertical
rod thereby receives a vertical up and down motion. In Figure 8 therefore,
before the presser K descends upon the pile thread the adjusting arm in the
raised position approaches the presser K. When the latter has dropped down
(Figure 20, portion of a vertical cross section) the adjusting arm advances a
little and the rod (12 in consequence of the turning of the excentric (" (Figure 15)
has sunk a little so that (Figure 20) the finger of the armrests freely upon
the edge of the presser K.
'
'
The adjuster however is at once moved backwards by the excentric t upon the
driving axis, drops down on to the pile thread a and grips over the same, likewise
stretching it straight at this portion, until it leaves it and drops into a slit of the
grate immediately behind the right hand end. It now pull the whole grate
along with it to the right. For this purpose the grate moves in guides
(Figure 16) upon the plate e. By means of a spring at the left (see Figures 20
and 8) the grate up to this moment was drawn in that direction its movement being
limited by a stud. The presser K is joined to the grate (Figure 16) therefore
in its lowered position participates in the movement towards the right which in
consequence of being flexibly joined to its treadle lever is admissible, until the
excentric upon the driving axis has brought the adjuster to the end of its
stroke towards the right. This extreme position is shown by the Figures 18
and 19 in a vertical suction and longitudinal section. The presser K is still
lowered as is also the rod and the grate together with the thread a and the
presser K have moved to the right. It therefore is immaterial as to how much
the excess of fall to the left of the pile threal a amounts to, since the grate
together with the thread and the pre-ser will always be brought to the same point
on the right, so that all pile-threads come into the same position.
(d) The apparatus by which the thread is fed between the binders & lỗ,
When the pile thread a has thus obtained its correct position the presser K
owing to the rotation of the cam which governs it suddenly rises again, whilst

page_text: the adjuster holds the grate in its right hand position (Figures 18 and 19).
The pile thread a is then advanced by the feeder V (Figure 21. The feeding
apparatus consists of a square red guided above the grate (see Figure 22
which illustrates it in plans and upon and above which a rail or plate V2 is arranged.
The feeder V during the time in which it is at rest assumes the extreme right
hand position as shewn in Figure 19 and as indicated in Figures 15 and 16. The
rod by means of arms (Figure 22) is joined or hinged to a rod V which
latter is provided with brackets to support the arms (Figures 19 and 21).
Springs V (Figures 19 and 21) hell the arms V down upon these brackets. The
rod V is supported by the angle lever having arms and Vand pivoted at V
The arm by means of a rod Ver is joined to the lever V pivoted at this
lever being actuated by the cam V Keyed to the shaft. The feeder V at the
correct moment that is after the presser K has risen (Figure 21) is conducted to
the left and thus moves the thread a by means of the rod V) against the rollers. W
and W
The protection plate V2 prevents the pile thread rising from the grate
During the scillations of the rod the springs V are strained and always
hold the rod firmly against the grate To bring the pile thread into the
space between the rollers W and W the cover plate covering the pile thread
must be capable of moving back so that the rod gets as near as possible to the
span hetsin th
The rail
of the rod
Springs
Figure 22) therefore is provided with slots into which the pins V
project or engage.
constantly force the tail forward. If however it should meet the
roller Wit slides back compressing the springs Figure 23 shows this
extreme position of the feeder V in which the pale thread a is introduced into the
space between the rollers and between the two systems of binding threads b. b.
As soon as this process is finished the feeder V consequent upon the revolution of
its cam 3 quickly goes back into its extreme right hand position (Figures 15,
16, and 19) the adjuster t is liſted away from the grate e owing to the rise of the
rod caused by the excentric and the grate e by means of the spring e³,
Figures and 18) is drawn back again into its extreme position.
At every revolution of the shaft d at one revolution of the rotating tongs % 7
and one revolution of the excentric shaft therefore one pile thread a is drawn, cut
to the proper length, and held down on the grate by the presser K. The grate e is
then moved sideways together with the pile thread until it has obtained the proper
position and the pile thread by means of the feeder V is pushed into the space
between the rollers W and W¼ The presser K is operated and the feeder V
moves in each direction.
(e) The sewing apparatus will now be described. The binding threads of the
lower system being drawn out by the regulator rollers R as required (Figure 5)
over the fixed grate p, are stitched together with the binding threads of the upper
system and the intermediate pile threads a by means of two stitches of the sewing
apparatus. For the proper guidance of the binding threads the grate pis
provided with half round longitudinal grooves or ridges which take up the binding
threads. Figure 24 shews the principle of the formation of the simple chain
stitch. The needle a pierces vertically through the two binding threads 6 6ª and
the intermediate pile thread a and thus passes the sewing thread through the
parts that have to be stitched forming a loop beneath. Into this loop enters a
hook y pivoted at which having come to its extreme position on the right, rests,
and the needle rises. The fabric is now fed for the distance of one stitch in the
direction of the arrow the needle having reached its highest position. The needle
then again pierces through the fabric and passes through the loop held by the
hook (Figure 24). The hook is then removed quickly to the left releasing its
loop and the operation is repeated. The needle therefore must receive a vertical
up and down motion, and the hook y a reciprocating motion around its axis n'. In
addition the hook receives a lateral motion along the axis so that the needle n

page_text: does not catch it when descending, and to insure the hook a when swinging back
to the left evading the needle a which has gone through its loop.
This is obtained
in the following manner→
All the needles
are inserted into a needle bar a' and are adjusted and secured
by means of small screws. This har has slides a² (see Figare 17 which illustrates
a plan, Figure 25 representing an elevation, and Figure 26 showing vertical
longitudinal section) which move up and down vertically in the guide pieces 1º of
the frame. The bar receives this vertical notion (since two sewing stitches are
to be made during one introduction of the pil thread) from the shalt which is
driven from the Camshaft the roaring boing in the ratio of 2 to 1. The shaft a
carries a crank disen" and communicates motion to the needle bar through the
crank rod, lever a" upon shaft all, two arms #ixel to the shaft, and two
rods communicating with the bar. As shewn in Figure 26 the grate p is
provided with fine holes to allow the passage of the neolles.
arms
The hooks are fixed to a bar which is firmly fixed to the shaft n³ by two
Through the lever operated by the cam 7 upon the axis, the
catcher bar receives its forward and backward swinging motion. When the
treadle lever is lifted by the cam a curved projection upon it acts upon
the roller of an arm " firmly fixed to the shaft and moves the hooks laterally.
Since all these movements are derived from the shaft a driven by a gear 1 to 2,
two complete sewing stitches are obtained for every pile-thread. Of course the
formation of the chain stitches may also be eflected by others of the well known
methods.
(f) Under this heading is described the regulating apparatus, indi-
cated at R Figure 5. The object of this apparatus is to draw out the
furnished fabric and to accomplish the teeding or shifting for the wing
mechanism. Owing to the fact that the latter makes two stitches for every
revolution of the main shaft that is for one introduction of the pile thread, the
regulator must likewise pull twice, and it is for the latter reason that the shaft >>"
which actuates the sewing apparatus is utilised for its propulsion.
Upon n' (see Figure 27 for a front view of the whole machine and Figure 28
for a side view) a crank is fixed which by means of rod ³, lifts the lever h² and
transmits its motion by means of the rod ³ to a lever 45 pivoted at 4. The pawl
upon the lever propels the ratchet wheel and turns the shaft and the pair of
bevil wheels and . The wheel is secured upon the shaft carrying a
worm engaging into the worm wheel 13 of the regulator cylinder The
regulator cylinder h" therefore is positively turnel the length of the chain stitch.
The broad pile band coming from the grate p is conductel over the roller æ³ to the
regulator cylinder 4" and on its way there is cut into the separate pile cords by
the cutting apparatus. The cords are conducted over the rollers and the
pressure roller. The pressure between the rollers and is obtained by
the spring which acts upon the lever pivoted at 416.
(g) The cutting apparatus is illustrated by Figures 17, 27 and 28. It consists
of two shafts and furnished with cutting dises's. The two shafts are geared
together by the wheels and and are driven by the pulleys and s The
shafts are situated one on each side of the fabric which has to be cut. To allow
of the cutting dises being adjusted at will upon their shafts as required by the
intended greater or smaller height of the pile, they are provided with threads
and screwed on to the shaft which is also provided with a corresponding
thrend (Figure 17). To ensure the discs remaining in their positions they are
provided with a large number of holes arranged in a circle (Figure 28) and
rods (Figure 17) are put through all the discs upon the shafts, the rods being
firmly fitted or coupled to the shafts by means of the arms. If it is required
to alter the position of one or the other of the dises the rod is withdrawn,
the position of the discs altered by turning them upon the spindle and then the
rod pushed again through the discs.
It has already
(h) will now describe the jacquard and repeating apparatus.

page_text: 19
1
A
heen shown that one tuber must always be put into the radial direction
(Figures 6, 7, 8) to offer the beginning of a thread (7) to the rotating tongs Z.
pattern card P (Figure 5) determines which of the tubes or which colour has to be
used. This card P (Figure 33, may have a row of 40 holes forty colours being
used in the frame (i to correspond to the forty tubes r. In Figures 6, 7, 8, und 27
only twenty-one tubes are shown. Above the pattern card P and guided in a fixed
plate pare forty needles N which rest upon and pass through the plate p' and are
raised and lowered with it, see Figures 29 and 30). The plate by means of
rod is joined or hingel to the arms (see Figure 41). These arms are secured
to shaft to which is firmly connected the lever p A eam upon the
shaft driven from the driving shaft by means of toothed wheels p" and p' and
by bevil wheels and (Figure 31) accomplishes the lifting and lowering
movements of the needle plate p² and the needles N. The one needle which stands
over the hole in the card will sink down into the hole, when the plate descends
in a
whereas the other thirty-nine needles remain or rest upon the pattern card "
higher piston. Above the needles N an equal number of lifting wires p (see also
Figure 4) are arranged, which can swing to and fro in their longitudinal direction
being guided in a grate and limited vertically. These wires p" with their hooks hang
upon the needles N and during the lifting and falling remain upon the latter; only the
one needle which drops into the hole of the pattern card releases its wire. The
latter is pulled to the left whist the other thirty-nine wires are arrested by their
needles and do not participate in this movement to the left. Each of the wires p
is attached to a red which has its turning point
The end of each lever by nmans of a cord
connected to one arm of the small double lever
tubessee Figures 30 and 31). The other arm
by means of a spring is held in such a way that
longitudinal position. If, however, one of the cords
tuber is turned into the radial position.
"'
in a lever pivoted at p
running over a roller in
of one of the thread guide
of each small double lever l
the tube is always in the
is drawn down the small
All the thread guide tubes (Figure 32) are fixed to belts which are mounted
in the frame pillars or walls and G. Between these walls the cog wheels
provided for driving the shaft d of the rotating tongs, are arranged one of them
upon the driving shaft, one upon the axis d and an intermediate wheel for both.
The pulling of the cords is effected by means of the levers (Figures 29 and
Figure 40) upon their downward movement. The one wire which has been
released moves to the left owing to the pull of the spring whilst all the rest of
the wires remain in their positions on the right. This is caused by an excentric"
upon the shaft having turned a lever p² to the left and by means of rod p" and
lever upon axis and by a rod commerted to the axis by two arms having
next turned all the wire rods to the left upon the point whereby all the
wires at the top are caused to engage with the needles N. The needles N
together with the needle plate now descend and one of them sinks into the
hole of the pattern card P, releases its wire 13, and the rod pin consequence of
the continued revolution of the excentric moves back to the right. This
wire is drawn to the left since spring at the bottom pulls the lower end of
the rod to the right. A suitable pressure rod arranged above the wire
rod descends taking along with it the rod lever p" and cord p, which latter
puts the little tube belonging to it into the radial position. After the pile
thread has been gripped and cut off the excentric has made one revolution
and through the movement of the lever arm to the left the wire rod pis
turned again in such a way that its wire again engages by means of its hook with
the needle in the same way as the other wires. The needles are now caused to
ascend the pattern card P is advanced for one row and another hole comes into
operation and effects the radial movement of its small tube r.
20
The pressure rod the rod and the lever have now ascended in
consequence of the tension of the spring (Figure 31) whereby the first small
thread guide tube has again been put into the tangential position like the others.

page_text: The upward and downward movement of the pressure rod p is effect d by a
cam (Figures 29 and 40) the lever mounted upon the shaft p and the arms
of the pressure rod.
upon
The pattern card P is advanced at the suitable moment by an excentric
the driving shaft (Figures 30 and 39) which by means of the lever p³ rod and
lever actuates the ratchet ps which intermittently turns the ratchet wheel p
and which revolution is participated in by the worm pupon the same axis and com-
municated to the worm wheel and the shaft of the pattern drum p. The
distance of each advance of the pattern card P (Figures 29 and 5) which is
guided over guide rol! 4041 amounts to d m'm.
For one revolution of the driving axis the pattern card P may be advanced for
every pile thread and at every time the required little tube would be adjusted no
matter whether the colour changes or not. In case however the colour is intended
to be retained a repeating apparatus may be combined with the Jacquard apparatus
just described to interrupt the work of the pattern cylinder In the same
imanner the other moveable parts provided for the Jacquard apparatus must also
come to a standstill that is the needle plate p³ the pressure rod p above the wire
rods and the pressure rod p, which causes the wire rod p to swing out so as to
bring the wire 13 into contact with the needles N. This repenting apparatus is
actuated by holes of the same pattern card P. (Figure 33) and for this purpose
besides the 10 points for the forty tubes another ten points have been provided so
that therefore the pattern card contains fifty points in a row. Whilst however
always only one of the forty points in each row is perforated the number of the holes
on one row of the other ten points varies and depends upon the number of repetitions
of one and the same colour. For the additional ten points further ten wires are
provided which are controlled in exactly the same manner by ten additional needies
(of which therefore there are altogether fifty in the machine) as the wires of the
Jacquard apparatus.
13
The pressure rods 27 press upon their wire rods and thus depress the levers 7.
The latter however by means of cords conducted over rollers are tied to
levers (Figures 31 and 32) which can turn at p. When a hole is present in
the pattern card P and a lever p" moves down, the lever is depressed at the
left and raised at the right (Figure 32). The ten levers of which four only
are shewn in the figures communicate with the levers which rotate on the axis..
These levers each carry a wheel all of which are equally divided. Each
wheel however is composed of two wheels (Figure 30) the left hand wheel of each
pair being all equal whereas on the right hand they differ from each other. Thus
the wheel (Figures 30 and 34) has the full number of teeth retained the
wheel 2 (Figures 30 and 35) has only every second tooth; the wheel 3 has only
every fourth tooth (Figure 36) the wheel + has only every eighth (Figure 37);
the wheel 5 the sixteenth; wheel 6 the thirty-second; wheel 7 the sixty-fourth;
wheel 8 the 128th; wheel 9 the 256th and wheel 10 only the 512th tooth the
intermediate teeth being removed. Upon the cross shaft O driven by bevel wheels
from the driving shaft is a muff capable of sliding by means of a feather and
representing a wheel with one tooth. This muff can be moved to and fro past the
ten levers by a rod a two armed lever a rod a lever and a cam
The levers each carry a ratchet (Figure 32) to which a hook rod" is
hinged the latter being loosely fitted upon the axis of the cog wheel. All the
levers by means of the pressure rods on the arms of the spindle
are pressed in one direction and are operated by an excentric and a lever ..
The hook rods " opposite the lever ends will descend with them when the card
is in operation. Those hook rods the opposite levers p³ to which remain
raised through the pressure of an unperforated part of the pattern card l' will also
remain raised since the ends of the hook rods rest upon the ends of the
levers When the levers move forward towards the axis o the inclined hook
rods or wires will hook or engage into a fixed iron plate the raised rols
however will remain free and when the pressure rod together with the levers."
R

page_text: go back, the levers that correspond to the arrested wires will not alter their
position. The levers during their forward motion also press forward a
lever" swinging horizontally around a pivot whereby a cord conducted
over pulley and tied to the rod and tensioned by means of lever and
weight is slackened and the rod in consequence of its downward movement
is disengaged from the pin of the lever The movement of the lever
continues but is no longer tran-ferred to and. During the movement
to the right of the muff the spring had been heavily tensioned.
Now when the rod has been released the spring contracts and the muff
quickly goes to the lef. passing those wires that are raised, but is eventually
arrested by the first downward inclined wire As the corresponding lever♬
has now finished its forward movement the revolving muthwith its tooth
engages into the completely formed tooth wheel of this lever and turns this
to the distance of one tooth. This will continue that is the wheel at every
revolution of the main shaft will be turned one tooth until the margin of the
corresponding second wheel has been overcome and the tooth of the ratchet
is lifted up by an isolated tooth of this bye wheel as the ratchet lies in the
path of the teeth or margins of the bye wheel.
The wire now likewise rises and disengages itself from the plate »". Its
lever by means of the spring is pulled back and the mouth in colesequence
of the spring tension jerks furthermore to the left, until its movement is
limited by another wire where the same process is repeated. If at last all
inclined wires ll have been passed and has arrived at its extreme position
on the left and all the lovers have returned the horizontally swinging lover
in consequence of the tension of its spring (Figure 38 detail) has gone back
and pulled the cond and lifted the rod to such an extent that it is again
coupled with the lever .. If a hole were present in the card P for the lever I
the muff would have simply gone to the left without first finding an obstruction,
the tooth turn the wheel i directly for the distance of one tooth, wire
rise at once and rod be at once coupled again with
With a hole for
levers and wheels 2 and 1 the multinis a resistance in the wire belonging
to the lever 2. After two revolutions the wire is disengaged, lifted up, and
muth moves further to the left restoring the initial position at I after one
revolution. Therefore three revolutions have been made before rod again
hooked into *. If holes were present in the can for all ten levers muil a
after 512 revolutions of the wheel 10 would advance to wheel 9 after 256
revolutions of the wheel 9 the muff would advance to wheel 8, after 128 revolu-
tions of the wheel S the muff would advance to wheel 7 after 64 revolutions
of the wheel 7 the muff would advance to wheel 6; after 32 revolutions of the
wheel 6 the muff would advance to wheel 5; after 16 revolutions of the wheel 5
the muff would advance to wheel 4; after 8 revolutions of the wheel 4 the
mut would advance to wheel 3; after four revolutions of the wheel 3 the muff
would advance to wheel 2; after 2 revolutions of the wheel 2 the muff would
advance to wheel 1; and after 1 revolution of the wheel 1 one period would be
terminated that is altogether 1023 revolutions would be necessary for one period.
The colour change of the thread in the tubes is retarded to this extent.
.
It is obvious that by the correct choice of the holes in the pattern card P the
greatest variety of figures for the repetition of the same colour of the pile threads
can be obtained and arranged in tables so that it is easy to determine how in every
particular case the pattern card P must be arranged. The repeating apparatus
just described serves the object of setting the working parts of the Jacquard
apparatus to rest, until the colour change is required to take place. This is
effected by the horizontally swinging lever which is prevented from moving
backwards to the extent determined by the repeating apparatus and its pattern
card. This lever "acts upon the treadle lever, controlling the movement of the
said parts in such a way that their rollers remain in the extreme circumference of
the respective cains and therefore cannot exert any action.

page_text: Figure 39 shews the disengaging mechanism for the pattern card drum p.
The horizontally swinging lever during its forward movement moves the
double lever d³ pivoted at d. The lower portion moves in the opposite
direction and turns the finger d in such a way that it alters its position to the
ratchet lever and holds the lever in its extreme left position where it is
unaffected by the camp until the lever retires through the action of the
repeating apparatus.
The pattern card therefore in consequence will likewise rest to the same extent.
Figure 10 represents the disengaging mechanism for the pressure rod of the
wire p" as well as that for the pressure rod for again adjusting or engaging the
wires 18
so as to start or repeat the process of the wire action. When the pressure
rod has gone down and the thread tuber and repeating levere have been
adjusted by the pattern card, p is retained in its position by lever de joined to the
horizontally swinging and advancing lever by means of rod d. The lever d
by means of a nose catches the pin of the lever and thus retains it in its
extreme right hand position until lever" (after the repeating wheels 1 to 10 have
been passed) again goes back with d. The pressure rod p remains in its position
owing to the lever p likewise remaining arrested in its extreme right hand position.
This is effected by the lever " which at the bottom has the fixed pawl d. If the
lever by means of the horizontally swinging lever is pushed forward, the pawl d
hooks over a pin do of the lever and holds it arrested until the lever returns
after the repeating apparatus has done its work.
Figure 41 shows the disengaging mechanism for the needle plate p². The latter
is intended to reinain in its lowest position as long as no backward movement of
the pattern card takes place.
This is effected by the double lever as previously shewn in Figure 39
resting with its foot upon the arm of the needle plate thus holding the same
in the lowest position whereby the roller pis also rendered ineffective.
It is obvious that the three methods mentioned in the introduction, ris, Pile
cords with either two or one or with no binding thread at all can be executed
by the described machine. In the first case the sewing apparatus is allowed
to act upon each of the strong binding threads arranged above each other, in the
second case the upper binding threads at the place where the stitching is to take
place are left out and are arranged as guide threads, in the last case the pile
threads are stitched together by themselves between the binding threads which
serve as guide threads.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manuer the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is-
1. The hereinbefore described process of manufacturing chenille consisting
in combining pile threads with suitable binding threads, and cutting them into
cords substantially as hereinbefore described and is illustrated by the accompanying
drawings.
2. The hereinbefore described process of manufacturing chenille consisting in
stitching together parallel pile threads and cutting them into cords substantially as
hereiubefore described and as illustrated by the accompanying drawings.
3. Chenille manufactured substantially as bereinbefore described and as
illustrated by the accompanying drawings.
4. In a machine for manufacturing chenille rotary tong or grippers and shears
by means of which the pile thread is withdrawn from the bobbin, and cut to the
desired length, constructed arranged and operated substantially as hereinbefore
described and as illustrated by the accompanying drawings.
5. In a machine for manufacturing chenille a pre-ser plate or flap K constructed
us and for the purpose herein before described and as illustrated by the accom-
panying drawings.
6. In a machine for manufacturing chenille an apparatus for longitudinally

page_text: adjusting the positions of the severed pile threads constructed arranged and
operated substantially as hereinbefore described and as illustrated by the accom-
panying drawings.
7. In a machine for manufacturing chenille a feeling mechanism for intro lucing
the pile thread between the guiling or binding threads constructed arranged and
operated substantially as hereinbefore described and as illustrated by the accom-
panying drawings,
8. In a machine for manufacturing chenille, sewing apparatus for stitching
the pile threads together and to the binding threads constructed arranged and
operated substantially as hereinbefore described and as illustrated by the accom-
panying drawings.
9. In a machine for manufacturing chenille, adjustable rollers or feeding
mechanism by means of which an intermittent motion is imparted to the fabric,
constructed arranged and operated substantially as hereinbefore described and as
illustrated by the arcompanying drawings.
10. In a machine for manufacturing elenille, an adjustable cutting device
by which the fabric is separated into the cards constructed arranged and operated
substantially as hereinbetore described and as illustrated by the accompanying
drawings.
11. In a machine for manufacturing chenille a Jacquard device constructed
arranged and operating substantially as hereinbefore described and as illustrated
by the areompany ing drawings.
12. In a machine for manufacturing chenille the combination with the pile
threads of short tabes which are capable of being arranged either tangentially or
radially, constructed and arrangel and operated substantially as and for the
purpose herein fore set forth and as illustrated by the accompanying drawings.
13. A chine for mufactur og chenille constructed arranges and operatedl
substantially as hereinbefore described and as illustrated by the accompanying
drawings.
Delhi. 19h of March AD 1803
WILLIAM E. HEYS.