IMPROVEMENTS IN FASTENING OR SUSTAINING TO THE BODY THE VARIOUS PARTS OR OBJECTS OF BODY CLOTHING, EQUIPMENT, AND HARNESSING
Year: 1854

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Jean. Francois Lucevilliard, Manufacturer, of Dijon,
in the French Empire, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN FASTENING
OR SUSTAINING TO THE BODY THE VARIOUS PARTS OR OBJECTS OF BODY
CLOTHING, EQUIPMENT, AND HARNESSING,"
Sealed the 12th September 1854, and dated the 30th March 1854.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Jean Francois Lucevilliard
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
30th March 1854.
T. JEAN FRANCOIS LUCEVILLIARD, do hereby declare the nature of the said
Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN FASTENING OR SUSTAINING TO THE BODY THE
VARIOUS PARTS OR OBJECTS OF BODY CLOTHING, EQUIPMENT, AND HARNESSING" to be
as follows:-
1 manufacture by knitting machines, or platting or lace machines, or looms,
bands of cotton, wool, silk, or other fibrous material, having threads of caout-
chouc or other suitable elastic material introduced into them, and having also
a full or plaited border or margin on one or both edges of such bands, which
border or borders serve for attaching the band to the object or article of
clothing, equipment, or harnessing for which it is required. Thus, one of these
elastic bands may be used as a waistband or belt (with or without a buckle)
for supporting a pair of trousers which are sewn to the border, and the band
is thus attached to the trousers by the intervention of the border, without the
elasticity of the band being impaired by its attachment to the comparatively
inelastic material of the trousers. If required, the band may be made with
Price Sd l

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Jean Francois Lucevilliard. in the Great Seal Patent Office
on the 26th September 1854.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JEAN
FRANCOIS LUCE-VILLIARD, Manufacturer. of Dijon, in the French Empire,
send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria. by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Thirtieth day of March. in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-four, in the seventeenth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors. give and grant unto me, the
said Jean Francois Luce-villiard, Her special licence that 1. the said Jean
Francois Lace-villiard, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such
others as 1. the said Jean Francois Luce-villiard, my executors, administrators.
and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time
and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and
lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of
Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man. an Inven-
tion for "IMPROVEMENTS IN FASTENING OR SUSTAINING TO THE BODY THE VARIOUS
PARTS OR OBJECTS OF BODY CLOTHING, EQUIPMENT, AND HARNESSING," upon the
condition (amongst others) that [, the said Jean Francois Luce-villiard, by
an instrument in writing under my hand and seal, should particularly describe
and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same
was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed' in the Great Seal Patent
Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the
said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Jean Francois Luce-villiard, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement thereof, reference being had to the accompanying Drawing, and
to the figures and letters marked thereon, that is to say:-
The Invention relates to the sustaining to the body of articles, of clothing.
equipment, or harness, by means of elastic bands of caoutchouc in manner
herein-after described.
I manufacture elastic bands, having caoutchouc threads woven in them, and

page_text: having also a frilled or plaited or full border on one or both edges. The
article of clothing which is to be sustained is sewn to this frilled or full edge,
which allows of the expansion and contraction of the caoutchouc hand.
Figure is a perspective view of one of these elastic bands h, with its frilled
edge attached to a pair of drawers, of which a portion is shewn at j. The
two ends of the band may be sewn together, or they may be connected by
a buckle or otherwise, as may be most convenient.
Figure 2 is a front view, partly in perspective, of a portion of a loom
adapted for weaving the elastic frilled bands herein-before mentioned, e, c, is
the portion of the warp which forms the elastic portion of the band h. some
of the threads being of caoutchouc d. d, is the portion of the warp which
forms the frilled edge ; a is the reed, which is made coarser at the pari
through which passes the portion e of the warp than at the part through which
passes the portion d. The reed a is fixed in the batten c; b is the shuttle.
The portion of warp d is divided into two equal parts, and each of these parts
is subdivided into two equal parts. The shuttle b, in passing from left to right.
passes through the warp e. and through the upper half of the warp d. It then
returns through the upper half of the warp d. and passes through the warp e.
It then returns through the warp e, and passes through the lower half of the
warp d. It then returns through the lower half of the warp and passes
through the warp e. This series of operations is constantly repeated; thus, if
there be one hundred threads in the portion of warp d. twenty-five of these
threads will be raised when the shuttle first enters it after traversing the
warp e, and seventy-five threads will be depressed. After beating up the weft
with the batten and reed, the twenty-five threads descend and are replaced by
other twenty-five threads. The shuttle then returns and passes through the
portion of warp e; when it again returns through e and arrives at the warp d,
seventy-five threads are raised and twenty-five are depressed. After the shuttle
has traversed the portion d. the twenty-five threads are raised and are replaced
by other twenty-five threads. The shuttle then returns through the portion
d, and continues its course through the portion e. The threads of the
portion e are raised and lowered in the manner of ordinary weaving. The
caoutchouc threads are in a stretched or extended state when in the loom,
but on removing the band from the loom they are allowed to contract, and
the part thus becomes frilled or plaited. Figure 3 is a front view of
a portion of a band thus woven; Figure 4 is a section of the same. h is
the elastic portion, and is the frilled edge, to which is sewn the article of
clothing . The band may be woven with frills on both edges if desired. When
the article of clothing is a looped or knitted fabric, it possesses sufficient claş-

page_text: ticity or extensibility to render a separate frilled edge unnecessary, as the fabric
itself supplies its place.
In this case I introduce the threads of caoutchouc into the knitted fabric in
the course of its manufacture, so that the elastic band, frilled edge, and article
of clothing, are all made in one piece.
Figure 5 is an elevation, and Figure 6 is a plan of a portion of an ordinary
circular loom or knitting frame for making knitted or looped fabrics. I, I, are
the needles, and J. J. are their holders. To this loom 1 add the following
apparatus for the purpose of introducing threads of caoutchouc into the
fabric. A. in Figure 7, is a reel, on which is wound the caoutchouc thread B.
This reel is carried by a suitable frame mounted on the machine, shewn in
Figures 5 and 6. The caoutchouc thread B passes between the toothed rollers
or wheels C. C, which are driven by the machine so as to supply the caoutchouc
thread at the proper rate. F is an excentric or cam wheel, also driven by the
machine by means of the wheels E, E, and shewn in detail in Figures 8. 9.
and 10. It consists of a number of small sliding pieces or bars K. having
projections at the sides, as shewn in Figure 10, which enter an excentric groove
or cam, as shewn in Figures 8 and 9, by which the sliders K are protruded
when they arrive at the needles I. The ends of the sliders K are notched to
receive the caoutchouc thread, as shown in Figure 10, and they are placed in
an inclined position, as shewn in Figure 5. D is a notched wheel, which
serves to press or support the needles I.
The caoutchouc thread B. which is supplied by the wheels C. C. is pushed
in between the needles by the wheel or pusher F.
G. G. are lantern wheels, which may be used in lieu of or in addition to the
pusher F. Figure 11 is an elevation of one of the lantern wheels G and a
portion of the machine: Figure 12 is a plan of the wheel G. These wheels
are supported by a bracket H, shewn in Figures 5 and 6. Figure 13 repre-
sents a sock made of a knitted fabric. having threads of caoutchouc introduced
at L and M. in the manner herein-before described.
The Invention is applicable to pantaloons, drawers, blouses, socks, stockings,
petticoats, skirts, nightcaps, and many other articles of equipment or clothing;
and also to horse cloths, saddle cloths, and other articles of harnessing or cloth-
ing for animals.
Having now described the nature of the Invention, and in what manner the
same is to be performed, I wish it to be understood that what I claim is,-
Firstly, the manufacture and application, in manner herein-before described.
of elastic bands frilled at one or both edges, for fastening or sustaining to the
body the various parts of body clothing, equipment, and harnessing.

page_text: Secondly, the manufacture and application, in manner herein-before described,
of elastic bands to knitted or looped fabrics by the introduction of elastic
threads of caoutchouc into such fabrics during their manufacture, for the
purpose of fastening or sustaining them to the body, as herein-before
described.
In witness whereof, I. the said Jean Francois Luce-villiard, have here-
unto set my hand and seal, this Fifteenth day of September, One
thousand eight hundred and fifty-four.
10 Witness,
CH. ARMENGAUD,
JEAN FRANCOIS LUCE-VILLIARD. (L.S.)
Ing" Civil,
Rue Filles du-Calvaire, No. 6,
a Paris.