Year: 1897

page_text: Date of Application, 2nd Nov., 1897-Accepted, 15th Jan., 1898

page_text: shown as a rotating wheel, mounted on a headed stud C+ having its threaded end
screwed into the bearing B¹º
The carriage C has a series of ratchet teeth C5, which teeth are engaged at intervals
by a locking pawl or device Co having its pivot at C7 and acted upon at proper times
by a projection c, see Fig. 2, of the cam hub C8, the upper end of said pawl being
provided with a roller or other stud, and being kept pressed towards the said cam by
means of a spring Co.
The carriage C has at its underside a projection c¹ against which acts an expansion
spring suitably held in the plate A, said spring normally acting to keep the
rubbing or stretching surface C³ out against the side of the upper on the side of the
last, the carriage being free at times to be pushed in by the action against it of
the upper and the last in the hand of the operator, the operator putting the side of the
upper on the last against the rubbing surface and pushing it and the carriage back
until the channel part of the sole is in position with relation to the needle and awl,
to be described, to enable said needle and awl to enter the channel and then he starts
the machine, and just before the awl gets into position to enter the work, the cam c
retires from contact with the pawl or locking device, letting its end engage the
ratchet teeth to lock the carriage and hold it locked during the formation of
the stitch, and during the feeding operation the carriage is unlocked in order that the
rubbing surface may adapt itself to the contour of the last preparatory to the making
of each stitch.
The rubbing surface described constitutes a lasting mechanism or device.
The main shaft has a cam hub D, the inner face of which is provided with a cam
groove D', shown by dotted lines Fig. 3, which groove receives a roller or other stud D²
of an arm D3 fast on a short shaft D4 having its bearings in the fixed standard A²,
said shaft having connected to it an arm D5, which by link b, is joined to the upper
end of the needle carrying block D, said block being mounted on a hollow stud
extended through the standard A2 and held in position by a set nut 61, the said block
having attached to it a hooked needle 63.
The hollow stud, referred to, receives a shaft 64 provided at its inner end with a
needle steadying device or guide 65 having an eye through which the needle works,
said shaft at its outer end having an arm 66, having attached to it a spring 6', normally
acting to keep the needle steadying device pressed toward the work, its movement in
that direction being, however, arrested by the little projection F¹, see Fig. 4, on the
foot or channel guide F, the said steadying device being, however, lifted about as the
needle is withdrawn from the work by contact with the clamping plate 6º connected
to the needle block, see Fig. 6.
The main shaft has a cam hub E provided at its left hand face with a suitable cam
groove, not shown, in which enters a roller or other stud E¹ of an arm E2 fast
on a short shaft E3 having its bearings in a standard A³ pivoted on a stud A³× located
near the rear side of the machine at a point behind the vertical plane occupied by the
main shaft, the said short shaft E³ having fixed to its opposite end an arm E* which,
by a link e, is joined to the upper end of the awl segment E³, shown separately in
Fig. 7, and provided with an awl e¹.
The awl segment is mounted on a stud e² having its bearings in said standard A³,
so that the stud and the short shaft referred to may be moved together with the said
standard when the awl is in the work, the standard at such time having imparted to
it a swinging movement to effect the feeding of the work.
The use of this swinging standard pivoted at the rear side of the machine enables
the longitudinal sliding carriage, usually employed to hold the stud on which the awl
segment turns to be dispensed with, and enables the sewing parts to be brought
together more compactly, and at the same time affords a proper space below the centre
of motion of the needle and awl in which may be presented the shoe,-held in the
hand of the operator, so that the said stretching device may act against the upper
on the side of the last and stretch the same preparatory to the needle entering the
sole, upper, and welt, to unite the same together.
In this machine the awl enters first the welt, and then the upper and between

page_text: substance, said awl emerging from the latter in the bottom of the channel cut in the
face of the inner sole, if such channel be used.
The moving of the swing frame carrying the awl is effected as follows, viz. :—the
said frame has, as herein shown, attached to it a block E having a seat in which
enters the ball-like end E', of the link Es, the said link being shown as made in two
parts in order that it may be adjusted as to its length and being attached in an
adjustable manner by a stud E in a slot at the upper end of an arm E10, having its
fulcrum at E12, the said arm having a roller or other stud, as E¹³, which enters a cam
groove in the periphery of a cam hub E14 fast on the said shaft.
Attached to the fixed frame A2 is a foot or channel gauge F, its lower end being
bent substantially as shown in Fig. 4, so as to enter the channel in the inner sole and
position the shoe both vertically and horizontally with relation to the path of the
awl in order that the stitch may be taken therein at the proper depth and place, and
this gauge has preferably at one side a projection F1, against which, as stated, the
needle steadying device acts when in its lowerest position.
This foot or channel gauge is adjustably attached by bolts 20 to the frame A² and
it may be adjusted into proper position.
The stud e² about which the awl carrier works also serves to support a welt guide G,
shown in Fig. 6, the said welt guide being attached to an arm 30 provided at one
end with a hole which fits over the said stud on which it is free to turn somewhat as
it is acted upon by the shoe as the latter is being put into position to receive the
stitch, the upper edge of said arm 30 having a cam surface 31 which is acted upon
by the free outer end of a lever G¹, said lever when its acting end is in its lower
position meeting a groove 32 see Fig. 8 and locking the welt guide in position, this
being just previous to the entrance of the awl into the welt and upper to feed the
same, said welt guide acting not only to present the welt in correct position, but
also to push the welt and upper closely down upon the outer portion or edge of the
innersole, and its movement is in such direction as to take up any slack that may
have been put into the upper above the top of the last or the inner sole thereon by
the continued rotation of the rubbing surface, the said lever when it arrives at said
shoulder locking the welt guide temporarily in position.
The lever G¹is pivoted at G2, and its inner end is so located as to be struck by the
projection Ex of the cam E, to lift the lever and release the welt guide, a spring G³
connected to said lever serving the purpose of keeping its inner end normally pressed
toward the said cam.
The looper & to furnish thread to the needle is attached to an arm d¹, slotted at
its outer end to receive a guide screw ² secured to a lever d³, said arm d' having a
notch in its side, and being connected by a similar slot and stud dix at its other
end to the underside of said lever d³.
The lever d³ is pivoted at d5 in the forked end of a rock shaft do having attached to
its outer or left-hand end an arm & to which is connected a spring d8 attached to the
frame work, the spring normally turning the rock shaft in a direction to keep the
outer end of the lever d³ and the attached thread guide down in its lower
position.
The inner end of the lever ³ has a roller or other stud do which enters the cam
groove 10 in a cam hub cs attached to the main shaft.
The notch d* in the side of the arm d¹ is entered by the rounded end of arm f¹
connected to a rock shaft f2 having at its right hand end an arm f³ provided with a
stud which enters a slot at the lower end of a lever f, pivoted on a stud f5, of an
upright fo, said lever having at its upper end a roller or other stud f which is acted
upon by a cam f³, fast to the right hand side of the cam hub E.
A suitable spring fo, connected to the said lever and the framework, acts to keep
the said lever against the said cam fs, so that the rock-shaft f2 is moved positively.
The arm engaging the notch in the arm d¹ moves the looper longitudinally
on the lever d³, and the said looper bas movements imparted to it about the pivot d³
and the roller de is also rocked with the rock-shaft, so that the looper has given to it.

page_text: a compound circular movement and a backward and forward movement, indicated by
the dotted lines in Fig. 5.
·
The rocking movement of the lever d³ about the pivot do is imparted by the cam
projections du, d12, of the cam cacting upon the roll d¹³ on the rear end of the
lever d³ the combined longitudinal sliding movement and the vertical and horizontal
rocking movements of said lever d³ causing the thread carried by the looper d to be
looped about the needle at the proper time.
The cam hub D has attached to it at one side a cam m which in the rotation of
the main shaft, acts on a roller or other stud n', carried by an arm m², fixed to a
rock shaft m³ having its bearings in the fixed frame A2, the said rock-shaft having a
second arm m' provided at its lower end with a thread sheave m' about which the
thread going to the looper and needle is wound, the said thread being passed
through the hole in the lever d³, see Fig. 5.
The thread coming from the wax-pot or other usual source of supply, not
shown, is passed around the tension wheel me, and then under and about a
sheave m and thence about the sheave m³, as stated, and led to the looper.
The tension wheel me has fixed to or forming part of it a ratchet wheel m8 which
is acted upon by a spring pressed pawl m³, the pawl holding the ratchet wheel and
tension device locked, but at each inward movement of the lever m', in the direction
of the arrow, the lower end of the said lever meets one end of the said pawl and
releases the pawl to allow the tension device to turn.
The can m will be of such suitable shape as to move the take-up in such time and
order as to give up thread to the needle while the latter is drawing the loop through
the material and to lock it before the completion of the stitch at the outward
movement of the thread in order that the needle thread may be drawn in to complete
the last or previous stitch made.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is:-
1. The use in a sewing machine, of the following instrumentalities, viz. :-stitch
forming mechanisın, including a hooked needle and a looper, a segment, a curved awl
attached thereto, a pivoted horizontal swinging standard having a stud to serve as a
centre of motion of said awl segment, a shaft having its bearings in said swinging
frame, connections between it and said awl segment, a cam and means intermediate
it and said shaft to rock the latter, means to swing the said frame while the awl is in
the material, and a continuously rotating rubbing surface to act on the upper at the
side of the last and stretch and feed the same to the last both preparatory to and
during the stitching and feeding operation, and a guide to present a welt to the
upper, that it may be stitched thereto and to the sole.
2. The use in a machine of the class described, of a hooked needle, a looper, a
lever to which it is attached, a second lever pivotally mounted on a rock shaft, means
to oscillate said rock shaft and means to vibrate said lever on its pivot on said rock-
shaft, and ineans to slide the lever to which the looper is attached on the said second
lever, whereby the looper is given an irregular movement in presenting its thread to
the needle.
3. The use in a machine of the class described, of a hooked needle, means to operate
it, a channel guide and foot having at one side a projection, a needle steadying
device, and a spring to move it, the said projection determining the descent of the
said needle steadying device.
4. The use in a machine for lasting boots and shoes, of an awl segment provided
with an awl, a pivoted horizontally swinging standard, a stud mounted in said
standard and serving as the centre of motion for said awl segment, a short shaft also
mounted in said standard, means between said short shaft and said segment to
operate the same, a cam and devices actuated thereby to rock said short shaft, and
devices connected to said standard to vibrate the same about its pivot, while the awl
is in the work,

page_text: 5. The use in a machine for lasting boots and shoes, of a circularly movable curved
hooked needle, means to actuate it, a constantly rotating rubbing device to act
against and stretch the upper over the side of the last, and a welt guide carrier com-
prising an arm mounted to turn about the axis of motion of the said needle, said arm
being provided between the welt guide and its centre of motion with an inclined
portion or shoulder, a lever, means to move said lever away from said welt guide,
and a spring to move the said lever against said welt guide, said lever when acted
upon by the spring pushing the welt guide against the upper, and locking it firmly
in position.
Dated the 1st day of November 1897
WM. BROOKES & SON,
55 and 56, Chancery Lane, London, Agents for the Applicant.