AN IMPROVED MODE OF MANUFACTURING CUT VELVETS AND OTHER SIMILAR FABRICS
Year: 1856

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to James Murdoch, of 7, Staple Inn, in the County of
Middlesex, Patent Agent, for the Invention of "AN IMPROVED MODE OF
MANUFACTURING CUT VELVETS AND OTHER SIMILAR FABRICS."-A com-
munication.
Sealed the 19th August 1856, and dated the 13th March 1856.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said James Murdoch at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 13th
March 1856.
I, JAMES MURDOCH, of 7, Staple Inn, in the County of Midillésex, Patent
Agent, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "AN IMPROVED.
MODE OF MANUFACTURING CUT VELVETS AND OTHER SIMILAR FABRICS, (comniu-
nicated to me by a foreigner residing abroad,) to be as follows:-
The Invention consists in a mode of guiding the blades or cutters, which
cut the woof employed to form the velvet surface, the cut being made in the
direction of the warp. It is based upon the introduction of thin cords among
the threads of the chain, in quantity regulated by the nature of the harness,
and serving when the stuff is woven as a guide to the stuff or the cutters,,
according as one or the other is made to move. These cords pass through the
reed as well as through the harness, which raises and lowers them like the
warp, of which they form a part when the cutters are fixed, which depends
upon the nature and quality of the stuff. The back end of each cord is fixed

page_text: to the frame of the loom behind the warp beain, and the fore ends are each
fastened to a corresponding cutter, fixed near the web beam or roller upon
which the stuff is wound, so that as the work advances, the flushes of the woof
forming a loop in the centre, and below which pass the cords, which are free in
the direction in which the cut is made, are cut by the said cutters before the
stuff is wound upon the beam. In the case of stuffs which require fulling,
it would be inconvenient for the cutting to take place before the fulling.
The operation is divided into two parts, and proceeds as follows:-
First, the knives are omitted in the loom, and the cords are somewhat longer
than the warp threads, so that they project beyond the ends of the stuff to
facilitate the next operation, and the cutting not being effected in the loom the
web is rolled upon the beam as usual.
Second, the web being removed from the loom, and having undergone the
operation of fulling, is stretched upon a table by its two extremities; the fore
ends of the cords are attached to the cutters, and the hinder ends are made
fast to a roller at the back of the table, and by turning the roller the cutters
are drawn over the web, and the cut is thus effected.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said James Murdoch in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
12th September 1856.
. TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JAMES
MURDOCH, of 7, Staple Inn, in the County of Middlesex, Patent Agent,
send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Thirteenth day of March, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-six, in the nineteenth year of Her reign,
did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the said
James Murdoch, Her special licence that I, the said James Murdoch, my
executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said James
Murdoch, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time.agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the
term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel
Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "AN IMPROVED MODE OF MANU-
PACTURING CUT VELVETS AND OTHER SIMILAR FABRICS," (a communication,) upon
the condition (amongst others) that I, the said James Murdoch, my exccutors

page_text: or. administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of.
their hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature
of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and
cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar
months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said James Murdoch, do hereby declare the
nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed,
to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement.
thereof, that is to say:-
This Invention consists in a method of guiding the blade or knife which cuts.
the threads of woof to form the velvet surface, and that in the direction of the
warp. It is based upon the introduction among the threads of the warp of
thin cords, in number proportionate to the nature of the harness, which are
intended when the fabric is woven to serve as a guide or conductor to the
fabric or the knife, according as the one or the other is set in motion. They
pass through the reed as well as through the mails, which raise and lower
them like the warp, of which they form a part, when the knives are fixed,
which is determined by the nature, sort,-or quality of the fabric. The hinder
end of each cord is fastened to the frame of the loom behind the warp beam,.
and the fore ends are each fastened to a corresponding cutter fixed near the
breast roll, so that as the weaving proceeds the floating threads of the woof.
forming a loop, through and below which pass the cords, which are free in the
direction of the fabric in which the cut is made, and, according to the con-
texture of the fabric, are cut by the said knives before the fabric is wound.
upon the ordinary roller which receives the web. By this method of
cutting the woof threads in the-direction of the warp a perfect regularity,
is obtained, since the stretched cords, which temporarily form part of
the warp of the fabric, guide this latter under the knives, so that.
according to the harness the cut always takes place in the same line. This
process is applicable to all kinds of velvet or cut piled fabric of whatever
material composed, and whatever kind of harness be employed, for all kinds of.
woven fabrics cut by a sword, like Amiens velvet. In the case of fabrics
requiring to be fulled like cloth it would be inconvenient for the cutting to
take place before the fulling, the operation is, therefore, in this case divided
into two parts, and is conducted as follows:-
First, instead of stretching the cords to the frame of the loom and fixing the
knives to the loom, the knives are in the first instance omitted, and the cords.,
are made somewhat longer than the threads of the warp, so that their ends.,
may project somewhat beyond the warp threads to facilitate the next operation.

page_text: In this case, the cutting not taking place in the loom, the fabric is wound upon
the breast roll in the ordinary way; together with the cords, in quantity pro-
portioned to the nature of the harness
Secondly, the fabric being taken out of the loom, and having undergone the
operation of 'fulling, which acts only, upon the wool of which it is composed: 5
(the cords being composed of hemp, which does' not become felted by the
operation of fulling), one end of-the cords which project beyond the web is
fixed to a cylindrical roller capable of turning upon itself, and to the other
ends of the said cords are attached the knives, which are destined to operate:
as before 'described; except that. in this case they will be moveable, and that I
the cords will act; as guides or conductors to draw.tliem..o.The web is then.
stretched by its two ends upon a table corresponding to the length of the fabric,
whichi-niay be effected by any suitable mode of attachment without touching.
the cords which project beyond the-fabric at each; end; and the cylinder to:
which one end, of the cords is attached is then turned; thereby, drawing the I
knives attached to: the other end of the cords along, the fabric, the cords guiding:
tlie knives along that part where the cut should take place. It follows, that in.
guiding the knives'in proportion as these.latter advance, the cord which draws.
each of them quits the interior of the. fabric, which retains not the least trace
of them any more than in the first method, the place which the cords occupied 2
in the interior of the fabric and. forming the loophaving been cut tolforin. the
straiglit pile like 'that of velvet 'cut with the sword!
The annexed: Drawings represent an example of the two methods of carrying>
out this process with details relating thereto
Figure 1 is a side elevation of that portion of a loom in which the parts 2
only that relate to the working of the Invention are represented.
:!
از
A is the frame of the loom B, the warp roll,. furnished with the tension
weight b, and upon which the warp wound in the usual manner is represented
by a 'bluerline. . B', the breast roll, upon which the woven stuff rolls up as the
work! goes on;C; the batten with its reed c; D,.the leashes with, their mails ;; 3
E is one of the cords, represented by a' dotted red line, when it is in the woven
stuff, which cords are added among the warp threads in number and disposition
according to the harness; and which, like the warp threads, pass through thei
mails: Each of these cords is fixed by its hinder extremity e tota cross piece.
F, carried by the back frame of the loom; the front end of the threads are 3
each attached.to a knife G, fixed to: the front frame of the loom, so that the.
córds become stretched elike tlie threads of the warp, whilst they are subject
like thenit to the action of the leashes; according to the nature of the harness.
Figure 2 represents,si plan; the same parts of the 'loom; the same letters

page_text: indicating the same parts as in Figure 1." The light blue tint 'represents the
threads of the ordinary, warp; the slightly, darker tint 'represents the woven
fabric with the cords included, and the darkest tint the fabric in. which the
thread of the: woof" has been cut by the. Knives. The cords represented by
red lines are shewn dotted where they are inserted in the part of the tissue
represented by the: middle tint. before this latter passes under the knives. .}
" Figure 3 represents a piece of the fabric as seen through..a microscope,
shewing the effect; and result of the process. With'athis view a very simple:
harness has been. chosen, in order to render its application! better understood.!
The blue lines, denote the threads of the ordinary warp, the red lines the.cords.
in the warp, the light. green lines the woof, and the; dark green: lines.the
floating threads, of the woof, which are to be cut.by.the knives, and the ties of
which are of the same.color.
Figure 4: represents, in,full size, the knife G, the construction of which, on
account of the contracted scale of the preceding Figures, could not be
completely shewn. The: two. knives shewn in this Figure differ only in the!
mode of their. attachment to the cords! which they keep stretched. g is the
extremity, through the thickness. of. which passes! the.cord, which is knotted.
at e', the upper.side gl being the edge of the knife. "This edge g' only com-
mences in one of the knives after the extremity g", which then passes under.
the floating threads before the edge.
Although the general and particular description above given. should sufficer
to render. the execution of the process intelligible, I subjoin a few words:
relative to the mode of operating: Things being arranged as shewn in the
Figures. herein-before described; and the ordinary loom being employed, it.
will be understood at the outset, that excepting the addition of the cords to
the warp there is no change made in the fitting up of the loomi, nor of the
harness, neither. is there. any change in the working. Infact, the workman:
weaves his web in the usual way, and moves in the usual way. the beam upon.
which the fabric is wound, only. before it is wound upon the beam the knives
have cut the floating, threads of the woof which formed the loops, above. the.
cords engaged in these floating threads, .which could not pass as loops under
the knives, which then cut only the said floating threads. These floating
threads wlien cut become the straight pile, like that of. 'other velvets made by
5otlier modes of manufacture and of cutting.
Figure 5 represents a piece of fabric-manufactured by the same system of
cords introduced into the fabric to serve as guides.or conductors to the knives;
and which refers more' especially to the employment of the process as applied
to fabrics. which require to be fulled; as has been already explained at the

page_text: beginning of this description: Fig. 5 is an edge view of the same piece o
fabric, to explain the second operation of which I have also spoken; but as
Figures 4 and 5 relate only to the first operation, that is to say, to weaving
properly so called, of the stuff with the cords, we shall only occupy ourselves
at first with these two Figures. The blue shade represents the woven fabric
in the interior of which are seen dotted the cords, as in the first system, in
number according to the harness to produce by means of the woof, and on the
said cords the loops which are to be cut. These cords, represented by red lines,
have in this case a length somewhat greater than that of the warp, so that the
end H may receive the knives, and that the end I may wind itself on a roller
beyond the stretching and fastening of the fabric to the table. To facilitate
this tension and attachment of the fabric, this latter has woven at each end of
it a piece of thrum J (tinted yellow), which serves to stretch the stuff by the
two ends. It will be seen by what has been said, that as regards the first
operation, for carrying out the application of the process to fabrics intended to
be fulled, the fabric is woven in the usual way excepting there being the cords,
which according to the contexture of the fabric are woven in with it, although
free, and which cords should be made of hemp, or other suitable material,
which will not become felted, when the fabric is composed of wool or other
felting material..
Figure 6 represents, in plan, and Figure 7, in longitudinal elevation, the table
upon which the stuff when removed from the loom is placed to undergo the
second operation. Kis the table (of a length equal to that of the fabric) upon
which is stretched the web by the two thrums J, J; L is a cloth (tinted grey),
fixed at one end to the roller M, and carrying at the other end jaws or hooks i,
to which is attached by means of one of the thrums J one end of the piece
to, be cut.. The other end of the piece is attached to the table by the other
end J by means of the hooks i, which are fixed to the table. The fabric is then
suitably stretched by means of the winch m, which by turning the roller M
produces this effect, by winding the cloth upon the said roller, and thence by
the drawing of the fabric, which thereby becomes stretched. N is a cylinder,
to which are attached the ends H¹ of the cords, denoted by the red lines and
dots, upon the stretched fabric; G are the knives, attached to the other ends H
of the said cords, which in this case serve as guides or conductors to the knives
which are drawn over the fixed web. These knives are set upon a rod P,
fitted at each end with a castor p, which run upon the sides K¹ of the table K
to facilitate the advance of the knives. R is the winch, by means of which.
the cylinder N is turned, the rotatory motion of which draws the cords H,,
which are attached thereto, which in turn draw along the stretched fabric the.

page_text: knives G, which in their passage cut the loops of the woof, as will be readily
understood by referring to Figure 3.
Figure 8 represents the design of a moveable knife, having on the lower.
part and in the thickness of the back a longitudinal hole, forming a tube to
receive the cord E, which then would serve as a conductor to the knife. In
this case the cords would be stretched by their two ends, and the knives,
arranged as above, would be moved by hand, like a plane, along the cords
along the stretched fabric, in like manner to the preceding. I would
observe, that whatever be the mode of carrying out the process, the cords
which are introduced into the fabric, whether they serve as conducting guides
to the latter, or whether they serve as draw guides to the knives, or as..slide
guides to moveable knives, these cords I say are neither destroyed nor;
damaged, they will constantly serve as the lams of the loom.
Lastly, I would observe, that according as certain materials are employed
the cutting produces meshes, the pile composing which it becomes necessary to
divide. This division it will be understood cannot be effected by the ordinary
cards, which would draw to them the cut pile, and it is only by means of cards,
whether vegetable or metallic, with flexible points, and even then with the
greatest precautions, that the separation can be effected. It might be better
done (reserving the rights of other Patentees) by beating the stuff with rods
after slightly wetting the same, or even by wetting it by steam, or any other
convenient means. The object of this last measure it will be understood is
only to facilitate the last operation, which consists not in raising the pile which
naturally stands up, but in disentangling and separating the pile or hairs of
the meshes composed of filaments not twisted. Upon examining the surface,
after these latter operations, a slight shearing may be found necessary to
equalize the pile. This is a complementary operation, which, according to the
nature of the materials employed, and to the method of disentangling the
meshes, may or may not be necessary, and which, practice will point out,
according to the result of the preceding operations.
It will be understood that I claim the application of this process to fabrics
composed of whatever material, and whatever may be the kind of harness
employed to form the floating threads to be cut, which may even be arranged
so as to form a figured velvet instead of a full cutting, that is to say, a cutting
of the whole surface of the fabric. I equally claim the application of the
process to fabrics intended to be fulled, and which may be composed of all kinds
of felting materials, or of mixtures of such material with other less capable or
even not at all capable of felting; and I will add that the second mode of pro-
ceeding is equally applicable to stuff's not requiring to be fulled.

page_text: Having thus described 'the nature of the Invention; and the manner of
carrying the same into effect, I claim in respect' thereof the mode herein-before
described of manufacturing cut: velvets and other similar fabrics, that is to
say; by introducing amongst the threads of the warp cords, around which the
threads of the woof form loops, which cords serve as guides to conduct knives
attached to the cords along the fabric, or the fabric along the knives, or the
knives along the cords, and the fabric whereby the loops 'forming the pile 'ǎre
cut:
'In witness whereof, I, the said James Murdoch, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Tenth day of September, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-six:
Witness,
HH. MURDOCH.
JAMES MURDOCH. (L.S.)