Improved Manufacture of Drabbet Cloth for Gabardine Fabrics.
Year: 1897

page_text: Date of Application, 15th Feb., 1897-Accepted, 10th Apr., 1897
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improved Manufacture of Drabbet Cloth for Gabardine Fabrics.
We, THOMAS BURBERRY, of the Firm T. Burberry and Sons, Winchester
Street, Basingstoke, Hants, Warehouseman, and FREDERIC DANIEL UNWIN, of
Crowland House, Haverhill, County of Suffolk, Manufacturer, do hereby declare
the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed
to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
It is well known that the threads in drabbet are apt to slip, and the object of
my invention is to prevent this and to add considerable durability to the wear of
the material also by a locking of the threads a distinctness of pattern is obtained
which greatly improves the appearance of the material, this I effect from a cɔm-
bination of linen threads and cotton threads, or from a combination of linen threads
as warp and weft threads respectively, the warp being so arranged that the crossing
and interlacing of the weft threads pass at intervals over and under the warp
threads according to the arrangement or design shown at Figure 1 of the annexed
drawings, or according to the arrangement shown at Figure 2 thereof as a modifica-
tion of that shown at Figure 1.
By an inspection of Figure 1, A representing the warp threads of linen or
cottop, it will be seen that the weft threads B of linen or of cotton pass first over
three and then under one in succession across the fabric the next or back
throw being repeated but under the middle warps of those warp threads which
the previous weft went over, the next weft c passes under one, say, the outer warp
and then over three and so on across the fabric, the next weft passes over three
and under one as indicated, so that all the warp threads become locked in that
pattern, this pattern or design is repeated for the full length and width of the
fabric which is here shown as a plain weaving but by varying the colours of
the threads, a variety of surface patterns can be produced although in same plain
order.
By the modified arrangement shown at Figure 2, the weft a passes over four
warps and then under two, the next weft b passes under three and over three in.
succession, the next c is a repeat of the first but over and under different warp
threads, the second b being now repeated and so on for the full width and length of
the fabric, each weft breaking joint, as indicated to produce a diagonal pattern,
these threads also may vary in colour for artistic pattern or design.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of this inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what we
claim is :-
1. The new manufacture of drabbet cloth for gabardine fabrics by throwing the
linen or cotton weft threads in and out or above and below a linen or cotton warp,
but not both of cotton as set forth with reference to Figure 1 of the annexed
drawings.
2. The modified manufacture of drabbet cloth for gabardine fabrics by throwing
linen or cotton weft in and out or above and below the linen or cotton warp

page_text: but not both of cotton, as set forth with reference to Figure 2 of the annexed
drawings.
Dated this 15th day of February 1897.
H. GARDNER,
Patent Agent, 166 Fleet Street, London,
Agent for the said Thomas Burberry and Frederic Daniel Unwin.