CERTAIN IMPROVE- MENTS IN MANUFACTURING BUTTONS FOR WEARING APPAREL
Year: 1844

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, BENJAMIN
AINGWORTH, of Birmingham, in the County of Warwick, Gentleman, send
greeting.
WHEREAS I did by petition humbly represent unto Her present most
Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, that I had invented "CERTAIN IMPROVE-
MENTS IN MANUFACTURING BUTTONS FOR WEARING APPAREL;" and Her said
Majesty, being willing to give encouragement to all arts and inventions which
may be for the public good, was graciously pleased, by Her Royal Letters
Patent under the Great Seal of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and
Ireland, bearing date at Westminster, the Sixth day of February, One thousand
eight hundred and forty-four, in the seventh year of Her reign, for Herself,
Her heirs and successors, to give and grant unto me, the said Benjamin
Aingworth, my executors, administrators, and assigns, Her especial licence,
full power, sole privilege and authority, that I or they, by myself or them-
selves, or by my or their deputies, servants, or agents, or such others as I or
they should agree with, and no others, during the term of fourteen years from
the date of the said Letters Patent, should and lawfully might make, use,
exercise, and vend my said Invention within that part of Her said Majesty's
Dominions called England, Her Dominion of Wales, and Town of Berwick-
upon-Tweed, and also in all Her said Majesty's Colonies and Plantations
abroad, in such manner as to me, my executors, administrators, and assigns,
shall seem meet, and as that I or they shall enjoy the whole profit and
advantage arising by reason of the said Invention during the said term of

page_text: fourteen years, and for that end Her said Majesty requires and strictly com-
mands all Her subjects whatsoever within England, Wales, and Berwick-upon-
Tweed, and in the Colonies and Plantations aforesaid, that they shall not,
neither directly nor indirectly, make, use, or put in practice my said Invention,
or any part thereof, nor in anywise counterfeit, imitate, or resemble the same,
nor make any addition thereto or subtraction therefrom, whereby to pretend
himself or themselves to be the inventor or inventors thereof; and whereas
the said Letters Patent contain a proviso, obliging me, the said Benjamin
Aingworth, particularly to describe and ascertain the nature of my said Inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, by an instrument in
writing under my hand and seal, and to cause the same to be inrolled in Her
Majesty's High Court of Chancery within six calendar months next and
immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent, as in and by the same
(reference being thereunto had) will more fully and at large appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said
Benjamin Aingworth, do hereby declare that my said Invention is described
and ascertained in manner following, and by the aid of the Sheet of Drawings
hereunto annexed, that is to say:-
Part of my said improvements relate to the manufacture of buttons by
compressing pulp, prepared in the manner of pulp for making paper, or paste-
board, or milled board from old paper or cuttings of paper, or from old rags,
old ropes, or from hemp, or any material whereof paper has been, or is, or
may be made, such pulp, when in a soft or plastic state, being compressed into
the hollow of a suitable mould by means of a punch or die, which is adapted
to enter into such mould after the pulp has been lodged therein, and which die
is forced into the mould so as to compress the pulp contained therein, and give
the intended form to the material of the pulp, and such compression is repeated
after the material has been dried, so as to be in a harder state, a succession of
moulds being used for successive compressions suitably for producing the
required form of buttons at as many stages of formation as may be requisite ;
each mould which is so used in succession being somewhat smaller than the
preceeding mould, suitably for the reduction of bulk that the material will
undergo by drying in the intervals between the succeeding compressions, as
well as for the reduction in bulk which will be occasioned by each com-
pression. The material may be dyed of a black or other colour when in the
state of pulp, and may be impregnated with size or glutinous matter capable
of producing adhesion; and after having been coarsely moulded and dried, or
partly dried, the imperfect buttons or pieces of material for making buttons
may be impregnated with oil or varnish, and dried, and then compressed again;

page_text: and shanks of any suitable kind may be inserted into such buttons at one of
the intervals between the successive compressions, and made fast during sub-
sequent compressure. The material, and the preparation thereof into the state
of pulp, will be the same in every respect as the ordinary process for making
coarse or white brown paper or brown paper, or for making pasteboard or
millboard, which process being well known and commonly practised, does not
require any minute description. The old paper, paper cuttings, old rags
(which may be linen, woollen, or cotton, and of the cheapest kind, such as
would be unfit for making the best kinds of paper), or old ropes, hemp, or
other material of which paper has been, or is, or may be made, or mixtures
of the materials aforesaid, is to be ground or cut into minute fragments by
action of the ordinary machine or engine commonly used by paper makers,
and which operates by a revolving cylindrical roller, furnished with knives or
cutters around its cylindrical circumference, the cutting edges of those knives
or cutters acting against the corresponding cutting edges of stationary knives,
so as to cut the material between the moving cutting edges of the roller and
the stationary cutting edges; and water being supplied to the material during
the operation in such machine or engine, the material is cut and divided or
ground into fragments, and by long continuance of the said operation is
reduced into a state of pulp. The material, when it is in such engine or
machine, is contained in an endless channel, across one part of which the
revolving roller is disposed, and by the revolving motion and action thereof
the material is caused to circulate slowly and continually around in such
channel, so as to pass away from the revolving roller after having been sub-
jected to the cutting action of the knives thereof and of the stationary knives;
but by the circulation of the material in the said channel every part of the
material is in due course brought round again to that part of the said channel
where the revolving roller is situated across the same, so as to be subjected to
the said cutting action over and over again repeatedly, in consequence of the
said circulation of the material in the said channel, so as that no part of the
material contained in the engine or machine can escape the said cutting
action, and thereby, after a sufficient continuance of the operation, the
whole of the material will be reduced to a state of pulp of an uniform
consistency. It is not necessary to enter into further description of the
preparation of the material, because the same is only the ordinary and well-
known practice of paper makers, and particularly of that class of paper
maker who make white brown and brown paper, or pasteboard, or mill-
All or any of the materials or mixtures of materials commonly used
by such paper makers may be reduced to pulp in the same. manner as would
board.

page_text: be done for making white brown or brown paper, or pasteboard or millboard
therefrom, except as respects old ropes containing tar, the same should not be
used in such a large proportion amongst the material as would introduce any
sensible quantity of tar into the pulp. The pulp after being thus prepared, and
superfluous water drained away from it, may be dyed by boiling it in a dye of
a black or any other suitable colour, or the dying may be performed when the
pulp is only partly prepared, in the state of what is known to paper makers as
half stuff, and may be subjected to the operation of a paper make's engine or
machine a second time after having been dyed, in order to complete the pre-
paration to a state of uniforin pulp, such as would be fit for making coarse
paper, or pasteboard or millboard, and size or glutinous matter may be added to
the pulp to give adhesion to the material; then for commencing the formation
of buttons from such prepared pulp, the proceeding may be very similar to
that of commencing the formation of sheets of paper by taking up a suitable
portion of such prepared pulp upon a mould, having a bottom of woven wire,
through which the water can drain away freely from the pulp, so as to leave
the material of the pulp collected into a sufficient consistence for the first stage
of formation of paper. The mould for collecting the material of the pulp
suitably for commencing the formation of buttons must be adapted to hold a
much greater depth of pulp upon the woven wire bottom of the mould than
is required for making the thickest paper, because of the greater thickness
that is required for the buttons. The mould may have a number of circular or
cylindrical cells for receiving the pulp, with a bottom of woven wire extending
beneath all the cells, each cell being of a size and depth to receive as much
pulp as will contain the proper quantity of material for making one button;
the mould should le shaken when its cells are filled with pulp, and so much of
the water of the pulp will drain away through the woven wire as to leave the
material of the pulp of a sufficient consistence for holding together in separate
pieces, which will be left upon the woven wire after the removal therefrom
of the upper part of the mould, in which the circular or cylindrical cells are
forned. The separate pieces of material so obtained are then to be put one
by one into a mould of the kind represented in section at Figure 1 of the
Drawing hereunto annexed. The lower part A of that mould has a cylin-
drical cavity, with a woven wire a at bottom, and the piece of material being
lodged therein when in its soft state, a cylindrical plug B, which is fitted to
the mould A, is inserted, and pressed down therein, so as to compress the
material with sufficient force for squeezing out the water therefrom through
the worm wire bottom. The bottom of the mould A, on which the
woven wire a is supported, is perforated with a number of small holes, to

page_text: allow of the free escape of the water which has passed through the woven
wire. The woven wire a may be fastened on that perforated bottom 6 by
The
soldering them together around the circumference of the circle.
perforated bottom b and the wire a with which it is so covered should be
loose at the bottom of the solid mould A, and there may be a stem d
proceeding downward from the perforated bottom 6 through a central hole at
the bottom of the solid mould A; by means of that stem d the perforated
bottom b, with the woven wire a, and the compressed material thereon, can be
lifted up within the hollow of the mould A, in order to raise the material so
much above the upper edge of the mould A as that the compressed material
can be removed, and, although still in a soft state, is the commencement of
a button. The under side of the cylindrical plug B has a central prominence e,
which will have imprinted a small cavity into the piece of material when it was
compressed as aforesaid, that cavity being for the purpose of receiving a metal
shank for the button, which shank should be prepared, as shewn at E (beneath
Figure 1), with an enlarged base to go into the said cavity; such metallic
shanks may be made of wire, bended to a proper form in the usual manner of
shanks for metal buttons, and soldered to small circular disks which will form
the said enlarged base, or else metallic shanks of the kind shewn at F (beneath
Figure 1), which were invented by me, and which form part of improvements
in the manufacture of buttons for which Letters Patent were granted to me by
Her present Majesty, on the Seventh day of October, One thousand eight
hundred and forty-one; my said metallic shanks F (beneath Figure 1) being
small knobs, perforated with intersecting or crossing holes for receiving the
sewing by which the button is to be fastened to the garment, as is described in
my Specification which was enrolled in pursuance of the last-mentioned Letters
Patent, on the Seventh day of April, One thousand eight hundred and forty-
two; such small perforated knobs may be soldered to small circular (lisks to
form a shank, such as F (beneath Figure 1). Note.-The pressure which is
given to the material whilst it is in the mould, Figure 1, should be moderate,
so as to squeeze out the superfluous water, but without compressing the
material very solidly, and the plug A may be simply forced down by pressure
of the hand of the workman, or any simple machine may be used. The
material when taken out of the mould, Figure 1, will still be in a soft state,
and the small disk of the shank E or F (beneath Figure 1) being inserted into
the cavity left by the prominence e of the plug B, Figure 1; the soft material,
with the shank so inserted, is then to be put into a mould similar to Figure 2,
with a cylindrical hollow in the lower part G, which hollow is adapted to
receive the said piece of material; and a cylindrical plug II, which is fitted

page_text: to that hollow, is forced down therein with a strong pressure upon the soft
material, in order to compress the same. The under side of the plug H has a
cavity in the centre to admit so much of the metallic shank as is intended to be
prominent at the back of the intended button when finished; but around that
said cavity the under side of the plug H is less concave than the corresponding
part of the under side of the plug B, Figure 1, around the central promminence
e; the consequence is that the compressure produced upon the soft material
in the mould, Figure 2, by forcing the plug H down thereon, causes the soft
material to close in all around the cavity wherein the disk of the shank is
lodged, so that the said disk becomes completely imbedded into the material,
and the compressure thereon being considerable, it becomes a tolerably hard
and firm substance, which, when removed from the mould, Figure 2, is in the
form of a thick button with a metallic shank fixed into it. And note.-The
moulds, Figures 1 and 2, are represented concave at bottom, because they are
supposed to be adapted for the preparation of the material for making buttons
which are intended to be convex at their fronts when finished; but if the
buttons are intended to be flat at their fronts when finished, then the bottoms
of the moulds, Figures 1 and 2, should be flat. The mould, Figure 2, should
be used in a screw press, such as is employed by button makers, the plug H
being forced down by the power of the screw to give compression to the
material. And note.-The bottom of the mould, Figure 2, may be loose, with
a stem to lift it up in the hollow of the mould, in order to lift out the imperfect
button therefrom after it has been compressed. The imperfect buttons so
prepared are then to be thoroughly dried, to evaporate all the remaining water
from the material, which may be done in a japanner's stove; and after being
dried the imperfect buttons are to be dipped into a mixture of linseed oil and
rectified naptha or spirits of tar obtained from the distillation of coal
tar, and then dried again in a stove; after which the completion of the
form of the buttons is to be produced by a final compressure in another
mould, similar to Figure 2, with a punch fitted to the hollow thereof, but the
said mould and punch being somewhat smaller than Figure 2, and of the
exact size and shape that the finished buttons are intended to be; and if
the buttons are intended to shew a pattern or device on the front, the interior
of the finishing mould is to be engraved accordingly, and the under side of the
punch for that mould may be engraved with any inscription that is intended to
appear at the back of the button around its shank. The said finishing mould
and its punch will operate better if kept warm, which may be done by a sall
flame of a lamp or gas light kept continually burning in contact with the metal
of the mould, so as to heat the same. The compressure given in the said

page_text: finishing mould must be considerable, so as to give a great solidity to the
material. And note.-Whereas buttons have heretofore been made of paste-
board by cutting out small circular disks therefrom and gluing two or more
such disks together, the same finishing moulds may be used for the completion
of the form of the buttons made from prepared pulp, in manner herein-before
described, as are well known and used for the finishing moulds for such
pasteboard buttons, or the moulds used for finishing horn buttons are very
similar ; and any of the tools or modes of procedure which are known or
used for preparing and pressing horn buttons or pasteboard buttons may
be used for completing the said buttons which are formed from prepared pulp,
as aforesaid, for the nature of my improvements now describing, as respects
such buttons, does not consist in any new tools or mode of procedure for giving
the intended form to the buttons by compressure; but the same consists in the
material being prepared in a state of pulp, and commencing the formation
of the buttons from such pulp, in manner herein-before described, instead of
forming such pulp into sheets of pasteboard, and cutting out disks from such
sheets, and manufacturing buttons from such disks, which has been the only
mode whereby materials similar to those used by paper makers for making
white brown paper, or brown paper, or pasteboard, or millboard, have been
hitherto rendered available for the purpose of manufacturing buttons; but by
this part of my present improvements, the formation of the buttons being com-
menced from the prepared pulp, and conducted as herein-before described, such
buttons will be more easily manufactured, and will be better as to solidity; and
after the buttons have been completely formed by compressure in finishing
moulds, as already described, they may be painted with varnish and dried, and
may be varnished and dried again, in the manner of japanned ware, either with
plain colors, or with ornamented painting and with gilding, in the same
manner as pasteboard buttons are commonly finished by japanning.
And other part of my said improvements in manufacturing buttons relates to
those kinds of covered buttons which are made in moulds by dies with pressure,
that is to say, buttons having an exterior covering of cloth or woven fabric
extended over thin metal discs called shells, which shells (together with discs
of paper) constitute the interior of the button, the said covering of woven fabric
being applied and fastened in its intended place upon such shells and discs of
paper (as a covering thereto) by lodging a suitable circular piece of woven
fabric for the covering, together with the dies of metal and paper, within the
cylindrical hollow of a suitable mould, wherein the circumference of the said
circular piece becomes turned over all round the circumference of the discs of
metal and paper; and the said parts so lodged in that hollow are then com

page_text: pressed and fastened together by means of a punch or die, which is inserted
into the said bollow after the said parts have been lodged therein, and which
die is pressed with force upon them, so as to compress them into the intended
form of the button, and at the same time to fasten on the covering of woven
fabric without any sewing for that purpose; and such covered buttons are most
commonly made with what are called flexible shanks, formed of some strong
woven fabric which is adapted for receiving stitches of sewing thread at the
central part of the back of the button for fastening the same to the garment;
the said strong woven fabric which constitutes the flexible shank being applied
and fastened to the back of the button by the same pressure of the die that
fastens the front covering, as already mentioned; but the manner of applying
the said strong woven fabric which constitutes the flexible shank is varied in
different kinds of flexible shank buttons, that is to say, in the original kind of
such buttons, which were manufactured by Mr. Sanders, and for which he had
a Patent, dated the Thirteenth day of October, One thousand eight hundred
and twenty-five. The metal shell for the back of the button was a ring or
collet with a central hole, through which a portion of the strong woven fabric
for the flexible shank is protruded sufficiently for sewing to the garment, the
said fabric being a circular piece which is retained within the interior of the
button, except so much of the central part of that circular piece as is so
protruded in such button. Although the front of the button is covered with
woven fabric, nevertheless the metal of the collet is visible, and forms the
greater part of the surface at the back of the button around the protruded
flexible shank, then in an improved kind of flexible shank buttons invented
by me, and for which I had a Patent, dated the Thirtieth day of August,
One thousand eight hundred and thirty-one, and which buttons have been
manufactured extensively by Mr. Sanders under my said Patent. The strong
woven fabric for the flexible shank is made to cover nearly the whole surface
of the back of the button, except a small margin around the circumference
of that back, which margin is covered by the turning over of the front
covering all around the circumference of the button to the back thereof, so
that no metal surface whatever is exposed, and the button is really a covered
button, because it is completely covered over the whole of the back as well
as at the front; whereas Mr. Sanders' former buttons, with the collet, and
another variety of such buttons, which were manufactured by Mr. Aston,
were only covered at the front, but the metal of that collet was left uncovered
at the back of the button, except as to being varnished or japanned. And
I afterwards invented a mode of applying a covering of woven fabric over
the surface of such collet, which in the previous buttons was left uncovered

page_text: (as aforesaid), at the back of the button; that said mode is part of the
improvements for which I obtained my Patent of the Seventh day of October,
One thousand eight hundred and forty-one, herein-before mentioned; and
the said mode has the same result as my previous Patent of One thousand
eight hundred and thirty-one aforesaid, as to rendering the button completely
covered over the whole of the back as well as at the front; but according
to my said Patent of One thousand eight hundred and forty-oue, the strong
woven fabric which forms the flexible shank does not extend over the back,.
except at the central part of the back, where it protrudes through the central
hole of the collet; and the covering which is applied over the collet is an
additional piece of woven fabric, distinct from the front covering, and distinct
from the strong woven material which forms the flexible shank.
And this other part of my present improvements now about to be described
relates to certain new modes of manufacturing such covered buttons, which
will (as before mentioned) be entirely covered over the whole of the back
as well as at the front.
One of the said new modes is an improvement upon the mode described
in my Specification which was inrolled on the Twenty-eighth day of February,
One thousand eight hundred and thirty-two, in pursuance of the Letters
l'atent granted to me (as herein-before mentioned) on the Thirtieth day of
August, One thousand eight hundred and thirty-one, and in which Specifica-
tion it was stated that the strongly woven tissue or cloth which is to cover
the back of the button, and from the flexible shank thereto, is to be cut out
in a circular piece rather larger than the intended button, and the cir-
cumference of that circular piece would (in the subsequent operations) be
turned over the circumference of the internal metal back of the button, all
round that circumference, so as to wrap up and enclose the circumference
of the internal metal back within the woven back. Now, my present improve-
ment thereon is to cut out the said circular piece of strongly woven fabric
for the flexible shank of only the same size as the said internal metal back
or shell of the button, and thus economize so much of the said strongly
woven fabric as would in my said former mode be turned over around the
circumference of the internal metal back, see Figure 3 of the Drawing
hereunto annexed, wherein 4 represents the said circular piece of strongly
woven fabric for covering the back of the button and forming the flexible
shank thereof; and 5 represents the internal metal back, the circular piece
4 being of the same size as 5; and 3 represents a circular disk of paper,
which is to be applied as heretofore at the central part of the internal metal
back 5. The circular piece of woven fabric 4 is to be firmly cen:ented to

page_text: the internal metal back 5, all around their respective circumferences beyond
the circumference of the circular disk of paper 3, which is interposed between
4 and 5, at the central part of each. The internal metal back 5, with the
woven fabric 4 thus applied and cemented to it, and with the paper 3 inter-
posed between them, is prepared for being put into the hollow of the mould,
wherein the parts for the front of the button are also lodged, as heretofore,
those parts consisting of an internal metal front or shell, with a circular piece
of woven fabric for covering the same, but with one or more circular disks
of paper interposed between them, that said circular piece of woven fabric
being so much larger than the said internal metal front as that the circum-
ference of the former may be turned over the circumference of the latter
all round; and the parts so lodged in the hollow of the mould are then to
be compressed and fastened together in the manner described in my said
former Specification of 1832, by pressure of a die inserted into the said hollow,
and pressed with force on the parts lodged therein. And the buttons so
made according to this part of my present improvements will present the
same external appearance to the eye as if they had been made according
to my said former Specification of One thousand eight hundred and thirty-
two, and will be more strong and useful, although less of the strong woven
fabric which covers the back and forms the flexible shank will be consumed
in manufacturing such buttons according to this part of my present improve-
ments. And as to the cement for uniting the said strong woven fabric to
the internal metal back, as aforesaid, the same may be formed of caoutchouc
or india-rubber, dissolved in highly rectified spirits of turpentine, or in highly
rectified spirits of coal tar or coal oil, together with a portion of common
resin dissolved in like manner. The cement, so composed by a mixture of
dissolved india-rubber and dissolved resin, being in a semi-liquid state, may
be spread over the surface of the internal metal back 5, and then, before
the cement has had time to dry the circular disk of paper 3, is to be applied
upon the central part of that cemented surface; and then the circular piece
of strongly woven fabric 4 being applied over the paper 3, it will come in.
contact with so much of the said cemented surface as extends beyond the
circumference of the paper 3, so as to unite the metal 5 and the strongly
woven fabric 4 together, as already explained.
Another of my present new modes of manufacturing covered buttons with
flexible shanks, which buttons will (as already mentioned) be entirely covered
over the whole of the back as well as at the front, is an improvement upon
the mode I had invented of applying a covering of woven fabric over the
inetal collet at the back of the button, as herein-before mentioned, and which

page_text: mode is described in my Specification that was enrolled on the Seventh day
of April, One thousand eight hundred and forty-two, in pursuance of the
Letters Patent granted to me (as herein-before mentioned) on the Seventh
day of October, One thousand eight hundred and forty-one. Now, my present
improvement thereon is to apply the said covering of woven fabric over so
much of the flexible shank as protrudes through the central hole of the metal
collet, as well as over all the surface of that collet at the back of the button,
see Figure 4, wherein I represents the metal collet of the usual kind, and
U is a flexible shank, prepared in the usual manner from a circular disk of
strong woven fabric; and it may have small disks of paper within it, the
central part being raised by pressure into a form resembling a hat with a
convex crown iu miniature. The brim or border thereof is applied within
the concavity of the metal collet I, and the prominence which answers to
the crown of a hat passes through the central hole of the collet I, and
protrudes so as to form the flexible shank, all which is as usual for making
flexible shank buttons; but J is a circular disk of woven fabric of silk or
other suitable material, which, according to this part of my present improve-
ments, is to cover over the whole surface of the collet I at the back of the
button, and also over so much of the flexible shank as protrudes through the
central hole of the collet, as is shown by the section. The convex surface
of the collet I is to be covered with cement, which may be of the same kind
as herein-before explained in respect to 5, Figure 8; and before that cement
is dry the circular disk I is applied, and stuck on the convex surface of the
collet I, so as to close the central hole thereof, and in that state the collet I,
with its said covering J so cemented, is to be treated in the same manner
as the metal collet (without a covering) would be treated in the usual course
of making buttons, that is to say, it is put into the hollow of the mould
along with the prepared flexible shank U, and along with the parts for the
front of the button, viz, the covering and the metal shell for the front of
the button and disks of paper interposed, and then by pressure of a die
introduced into the said hollow all the said parts are compressed and
fastened together in the form of a button, with a flexible shank protruding
sufficiently from the centre of the back to receive the stitches of sewing thread
by which the button is to be fastened to the garment, but that protruding
flexible shank is covered by the same covering J which also covers the convex
surface of the metal collet I at the back of the button.
Another of my present new modes of manufacturing covered buttons with
flexible shanks, which buttons will (as already mentioned) be entirely covered
over the whole of the back as well as at the front, is to combine a covered

page_text: back of strongly woven fabric forming the flexible shank, such as described
in my said former Specification of One thousand eight hundred and thirty-two,
with a covered front, which has the same appearance as the fronts of certain
buttons manufactured by Mr. Chatwin, of Birmingham, with the following
words stamped on the metal collet at the back of such buttons, "John
Chatwin's Edge Pattern, Registered 576, 3 Feby, 1841," the fronts of the said
buttons exhibiting an edge border or margin around the circumference of
such front, which border is formed by a part of a covering of woven fabric
distinct from that of the central part of the front of the button, the said
border being continued over the edge of the button from the back of the
button, where it appears as a corresponding edge border or margin around the
circumference of the back, the interior surface of the back within the said
edge border around the back exhibiting the metal of the collet without
covering to that metal, except by japanning or varnishing. Now, my present
improvement thereon is to apply a covering of woven fabric over the backs
of buttons, whereof the front exhibits an edge pattern or edge border or
margin, as aforesaid, which border or margin is formed of a covering of
woven fabric distinct from that woven fabric which forms the covering for
the central part of the front of the button, see Figure 5, wherein 4 represents
a circular piece of strongly woven fabric for covering the back of the button,
and forming the flexible shank thereto, and 5 represents an internal metal
back, and 3 represents a circular piece of paper to be interposed. The
circular piece 4 is so much larger than the internal metal back 5 as to extend
beyond the circumference thereof, and wrap around that circumference, and
the internal metal back 5 is turned up all around its edges to form a raised
border rim, as shewn in the section, suitably for the receiving the circumference
of the metal front a, with its covering of woven fabric y, over the front thereof.
The internal metal back 5 is to be covered with cement all over its back
surface, in the manner herein-before described in reference to Figure 3, and
the circular piece of paper 3 being first applied on the central part of the
cemented surface, then the circular piece of strongly woven fabric 4 is to be
applied to so much of the said cemented surface of 5 as is beyond the
circumference of the circular piece of paper 3, as herein-before described, but
the circumference of 4 in the present case will extend all round beyond the
circumference of 5, when the said parts are thus cemented together, and before
the cement is become dry; then the said parts 4, 3, and 5 so cemented
together are to be lodged within the cylindrical hollow of a suitable mould,
wherein, by means well known, and described in my said former Specification
of One thousand eight hundred and thirty-two, the circumference of the woven

page_text: fabric 4 becomes turned over all around the raised border rim of the internal
metal back 5, so as to wrap over into the interior of that raised rim, and then the
internal metal front x, together with its covering of woven fabric y (and with
disks of paper interposed between them), is introduced into the same hollow of
the mould, so as that the circumferences of x and of y will enter within the said
wrapping over of the circumference of the woven fabric 4 into the interior of
the raised rin of the internal metal back 5; and then, by means of a die
exerting strong compressure upon all the said parts so brought together and
lodged in the hollow of the mould, the said parts are compressed together into
a completely covered edge button of the kind herein-before mentioned, viz*,
having a strongly woven fabric for forming its flexible shank, and covering the
whole of the back of the button with that same covering continuing over the
circumference of the button all round, and reaching over so much of the front
as to form an edge border or margin to the front all around the front covering
of woven fabric, which latter only occupies the central part of the front within
such margin; or otherwise, instead of the said strongly woven fabric which
forms the flexible shank being extended, in manner herein-before last described
in reference to Figure 5, over the whole surface of the back (as was the case in
my said Patent of One thousand eight hundred and thirty-one), the metal at
the back of the button may be covered by a distinct covering of woven fabric
(as was the case in my said former Patent of One thousand eight hundred and
forty-one), with the flexible shank protruding through the central part of that
back covering; but that same back covering in the present case extending all
around the circumference of the button, and overlapping the edge of the
button to the front thereof, so as to form an edge border or margin around
the circumference of the front, see Figure 6, wherein I represents the metal
collet for the metal back of the button, and J a circular piece of cloth, of silk,
or other woven fabric, having a small hole through its centre, which hole
is applied concentrically with the larger central hole of the collet I; when the
piece of cloth J is applied to the back or convex surface of the collet I, which
is done immediately after that surface has been covered with cement, (as
herein-b: fore described in reference to Figures 3 and 4, and before that
cement has had time to become dry; and the central part of the cloth J,
around the small central hole therein, is then pushed through the larger
central hole of the metal collet I, so as to protrude through that hole into the
interior concavity of the collet; and the part of the cloth J which is thus
caused to protrude is stuck fast to that interior with cement, so as to overlap
a little all around the circumference of the central hole of the collet withinside
of the said concavity thereof; all which is nearly the same as described in

page_text: my said former Specification of One thousand eight hundred and forty-two,
in respect of the metal collet I, and the circular piece of cloth J, and as to
cementing them together, except that the metal collet I, Figure 6, is larger
and of a different form in the present case, its edge being more raised and
turned over inwards, so as to be adapted to receive the circumference of the
metal front, and of the front covering of the button within the said raised and
turned-in edge of the metal collet I, instead of the circumference of the metal
collet I being adapted to enter into the raised and turned-in edge of the
metal front of the button; the metal collet I by itself being nearly the same
as that used by Mr. Chatwin in making his edge pattern buttons, which he
registered as aforesaid, but he did not apply any covering thereto. Also, the
circular piece of cloth J is so much larger than the collet I, as to turn over
all round the circumference thereof for overlapping into the interior of the said
raised and turned-in edge of the metal collet I, as is shewn in the section in
Figure 6. And the metal collet I having its cloth covering J cemented to it,
and wrapping all around the circumference of the metal, and overlapping into
its interior, as aforesaid, is then to be treated in the same manner as a similar
metal collet to I, Figure 6, (but without any covering at all,) would be treated
in the ordinary mode of procedure for making such edge pattern buttons as
the
were made and registered by Mr. Chatwin, as aforesaid, that is to say,
parts of the back of the button are to be lodged in the hollow of a mould,
those parts consisting of the metal collet I, with its cloth covering J cemented
to the convex back of it, and entering and turning into its central hole, and
also overlapping its circumference all round into its interior, and also a
flexible shank U, prepared in the ordinary way, and applied so as to protrude
through the central hole of the collet I; and then the parts for the front of the
button, consisting of the metal front shewn in the section by v, having its cloth
covering w and paper interposed between them, those said parts are to be
lodged in the same hollow of the said mould, in such manner as that the
circumference of the metal shell v and cloth w, and the interposed paper for
the front of the button, will enter within the aforesaid raised and turned-in
edge at the circumference of the metal collet I, for the back of the button, as
well as within the aforesaid overlapping edge of the cloth covering J, into
that raised and turned-in edge of the collet I; and then, by pressure of a
suitable die which is introduced into the said hollow of the mould, the said
parts so lodged in that hollow are compressed together into a completely
covered edge button of the kind herein-before mentioned, videlicit, having a
flexible shank protruding from the central part of its back and having a
covering of woven cloth over the surface of that back extending all around

page_text: the said protruding flexible shank, and also extending over around the edge of
the button to the front thereof, and so far over the front as to exhibit an edge
border or margin around that front, the central part of the front within that
margin being a distinct covering of woven fabric for the front of the button;
or otherwise, the said cloth covering J, for the back of the button, instead of
being perforated at the centre (as represented at Figure 6, and made to
correspond to the larger central hole of the metal collet I, by entering and
turning into that larger central hole, in order that the flexible shank may
protrude through the central part of the cloth covering J, as well as through
the central hole of the collet (as was the case in my said Patent of One
thousand eight hundred and forty-one), and as herein-before last described in
reference to Figure 6; the said covering for the back of the button may,
without any such performation at its centre, be made to extend over so
much of the flexible shank which protrudes as usual through the centre
hole of the metal collet, as well as to extend over and be cemented to
all the surface of that collet at the back of the button, in the same
manner as already described in reference to Figure 4, except that the
metal collet in the present case is to be the same as I, Figure 6, and the
circular piece of cloth for covering the back of the button is to be the
same as J, Figure 6, except being without any perforation at the centre ;
see Figure 7, wherein I is the metal collet, and J the cloth for the back
covering. Those parts I and J are to be cemented together, as already
explained in reference to Figure 4, with the circumference of the cloth J
extending considerably beyond the circumference of the metal I, and the
section of the parts in Figure 7 shews how they are to be put together, in the
same manner as already described in reference to Figure 6, by pressure of the
die upon them when they are lodged in the mould, so as to form a completely
covered edge button, which will be the same as those made in the manner
herein-before described, except as to the cloth J for the back covering not being
perforated at the centre, but the central part of that cloth J extending over the
central part of the back, and covering that portion of the flexible shank which
protrudes through the central hole of the collet, in the same manner as herein-
before described in reference to Figure 4, that is to say, in the same manner
as regards the covering at the backs of the buttons, Figure 4 and Figure 7,
and over their flexible shanks, without regard to similarity as to the fronts or
other parts of those buttons, than the said backs.
Another mode of manufacturing completely covered edged buttons is
represented in Figure 8, wherein K is a metal disk for the button, which,
by stamping, is raised to the form shewn in the section, so that its cir-

page_text: cumference is turned up all round, and with the edges turned over somewhat
inwards all round, suitably for receiving the circumferences of the parts for
the front of the button; also the more central part of the said disk K is
bended up to form a circular recess for receiving the circumferences of an
internal metal back, and of a cloth covering thereto. L is a circular piece
of woven fabric, which is to be applied to the metal disk K, and is so much
larger as that the circumference of the cloth will extend all round the
circumference of the disk K, in order to turn over all round the raised
edge of the disk K, and into the interior or turued-in edge of that disk,
and the more central part of the cloth L will extend over the circular
recess at the back of the back of the disk K, and will be pressed into
that recess when the circumferences of the internal metal back, with its
covering of cloth, are forced into the said recess by the pressure of the die in
the mould. 5, Figure 8, is the internal metal back, and 4 the circular piece of
cloth or woven fabric for covering the same, and 3 a circular disk of paper to
be interposed between 5 and 4, which are to be cemented together, the said
parts 5, 4, and 3, for the back of the button, being the same as 5, 4, and 3 in
Figure 3, (except as to size,) and are to be cemented and treated in the same
manner as herein-before described in reference to Figure 3. The parts for
the front of the button are to be as usual, and as shewn in the section,
Figure 8, viz., a circular disk of metal a, with its covering of woven fabric
over the front thereof, and with a disk of paper interposed between them.
The said parts for forming the back and the front of the button being lodged
in the hollow of the mould, with the circumference of the circular piece of
cloth L turned over all round the circumference of the metal disk K, and
reaching over into the turned-in edge thereof, then the circumferences of the
parts & and y, for the front of the button, become entered within the said
turned-in edge, and within the circumference of the cloth L, which reaches
over into the said turned-in edge; also the circumferences of the parts
4 and 5, for the back of the button, become entered within the circular
recess of the back of the disk K, carrying before them (in so entering)
all that central part of the cloth L which extends, as before mentioned, over
the said circular recess, and forcing that central part of the cloth into the said
recess; and then by the pressure exerted by the die upon all the parts so
lodged within the hollow of the mould, the turned-in edge at the circumference
of the disk K becomes turned more inwards, so as to close in around over
the circumferences of the parts x and y for the front of the button, with the
cloth L interposed at the place of junction all round; and also the circum-
ference of the recess at the back of the disk K becomes squeezed down and
Y

page_text: gathered inwards towards the centre, so as to close in around over the circum-
ferences of the parts 5 and 4 for the back of the button; and it is by the said
closing in of the turned-in edges at the outer circumference of the metal
disk K, that the parts x and y, for the front of the button, become united, and
it is by the said closing in of the circumference of the circular recess at the
back of the disk K, that the parts 5 and 4, for the back of the button, are held
fast in place, and so the button is rendered complete. And note.-The circular
disk of cloth L should have slits cut through the cloth in directions across its
centre, in the manner of radii, extending from that centre towards the circum-
ference in different directions, as shewn at L, Figure 8; those slits will allow
the central part of the cloth to draw freely away from the centre when that
portion of the cloth which is extended over the recess at the back of the
dise K is pressed into that recess, as before mentioned. And note.-The metal
disk K may be made of brass plate, if that is found preferable to iron plate
for raising to the form shewn in section in Figure 8, and the buttons manufac-
tured in the manner last described in reference to Figure 8 will be completely
covered edge buttons, having flexible shanks similar to the flexible shanks
described in my aforesaid Specification of One thousand eight hundred and
thirty-two, the flexible shank being a circular piece of strongly woven fabric 4,
Figure 8, which covers over the back of the button, and extending nearly (but
not quite) to the circumference thereof, for that circumference is covered all
round the edge of the button by the cloth of the circular piece L, which
appears as an edge border or margin all around the circumference of the back
of the button, and likewise appears as a like margin all around the circum-
ference of the front of the button, the interior and more central part of the
front within that margin being covered by the front covering of woven fabric Y;
and instead of manufacturing such buttons as last described in reference to
Figure 8, with flexible shanks formed by strongly woven fabric 4 extending
over nearly all the surface at the back of the button, the parts for the back of
the button may be like to I, U, and J, Figure 4, (except as to being of a
smaller size), those parts I and J being treated and cemented together as
herein-before described in reference to Figure 4; and after being so prepared,
and the flexible shank U being applied to them, those parts I, J, and U, are
to be lodged in the mould, instead of the parts 5, 4, and 3, Figure 8, and so as
that the circumferences of the parts I and J, which are to be substituted for
5, 4, and 3, Figure 8, will become entered within the circular recess at the
back of the metal disk K; those said circumferences carrying before them (in
so entering) all that circular part of the cloth L which extends, as before
mentioned, over the said circular recess, and then the pressure of the die upon
B

page_text: the parts so lodged in the mould will cause all the parts to become united
together, in the same manner as already described in reference to Figure 8, and
so render the button complete; the parts for the back of the button becoming.
fastened by the same means, and in the same manner, whether those parts are
of one kind, such as 5, 4, and 3, Figure 8, or whether of another kind, such as
I, U, J, Figure 4; and the buttons manufactured in the manner herein-before
last described, with the said parts I, U, and J, Figure 4, substituted for the.
parts 5, 4, and 3, Figure 8, will be completely covered edge buttons, having a.
flexible shank of the ordinary kind protruding through the central hole of the
metal collet at the back of the button, but the said protruding part of that
shank, as well as all the surface of the metal of the said collet, being covered.
at the back of the button with the covering of cloth J, in the same manner as
herein-before described in reference to Figure 4, that is to say, in the same.
manner as regards the back of the button only; and instead of using the parts.
5, 4, and 3, Figure 8, for the back of the button, as hercin-before described in
reference to Figure 8, and other parts for the back of the button, similar to those
described in my aforesaid former Specification of One thousand eight hundred.
and forty-two, may be substituted, the said parts consisting of a metal collet of
the ordinary kind, such as I, Figure 4, (except as to being of a smaller size,)
and a flexible shank of the ordinary kind, such as U, Figure 4, and a circular,
disk of cloth, or woven fabric of silk or other material, of the same size as the.
collet I, with a small hole perforated at the centre of that. cloth, similar to J,.
Figure 6, except as to the size of the disk of cloth, and the said disk of cloth,
is to be cemented to the convex surface at the back of the collet I, with the
central part of that cloth, around the small central hole thereof, pushed through
the larger central hole of the collet, so much of the cloth as is so pushed
through being cemented withinside of the concavity of the collet, in the same
manner as described in my aforesaid former Specification of One thousand
eight hundred and forty-two, and as herein-before described in reference to
Figure 6; and the metal collet, with its cloth covering so cemented to its
convex back surface, is to have the flexible shank applied to its inside concavity,
so as to protrude through its central hole, and in that state the said parts for
the back of the button are to be lodged in the hollow of the mould, and therein
the circumferences of the said parts will become entered within the circular
recess at the back of the disk K, carrying before them (in so entering) the
central part of the circular piece of cloth L into that recess, as already explained
in reference to Figure 8, and then, by pressure of the die, the parts are united
together, so as to render the button complete; the parts for the back. of the
button becoming fastened in the same manner, whether those parts are of one.

page_text: Kind, such as 5, 4, and 3, Figure 8, or whether of another kind, as now
describing. And such button so made will have a flexible shank protruding
from the centre of the back, and the back convex surface of the metal collet,
around the protruding shank, will be covered with cloth. The edge and cir-
cumference of the button will, as already mentioned, be covered with another
distinct covering, formed of the circular piece of cloth L, which will exhibit an
edge border or margin around the circumference at the back of the button,
and will also exhibit another similar edge border or margin around the cir-
cumference of the front of the button, the central part of the front, within that
edge border or margin, being filled up with the front covering of woven fabric y.
Another part of my said improvements in manufacturing buttons consists
in the application of compound two or more fold woven fabrics cemented
together by cement of dissolved caoutchouc or india-rubber, in the manner
of what are commonly known as Mackintosh waterproof cloths, for the
covering at the backs of flexible shank buttons of various kinds, that is to
say, for buttons whereof the flexible shanks are formed of a strong woven
fabric, covering over nearly the whole surface at the back of the button,.
except a small margin around the circumference of that back, as was the case
in my aforesaid Patent of One thousand eight hundred and thirty-one, and
also in my present improvement thereon, hercin-before described in reference
to Figure 3. The circular piece 4, Figure 3, which has been described as a
strongly woven fabric, may (according to this part of my present improvements
now describing) be a compound or two-fold fabric, composed of a woven fabric
of cheap but strong material, such as linnen cloth (or instead of cloth, it may
be leather), suitably for the interior, to give the requisite strength, and
cemented to a thin woven fabric of silk or other more choice material, which
fabric will be cheap from the thinness thereof, but the material will be
suitable for the exterior, to give a good appearance to the back of the button.
The said two woven fabrics being cemented together by the usual mode of
precedure for making what are called Mackintosh cloths, that is, by means
of cement of dissolved india-rubber, and the circular disks 4, Figure 3, (also.
Figure 5 and 8), are to be cut out by the usual and well-known means from
such compound or two-fold fabric, and when the said circular disks thereof
are used as parts for the backs of the buttons, in the manner described in my
aforesaid former Specification of One thousand eight hundred thirty-two, and
as herein-before described, the strong and cheap material which constituted.
one side of each such disk 4 is to be applied in contact with the internal
metal back 5 and paper 3, (and may be cemented to that internal metal back,
as herein-before described in reference to Figure 3,) but the other more choice

page_text: material, which constitutes the other side of each such disk 4, is to be at the
outside, so as when the button is finished to give a good appearance to the
back covering of the button, conjoined with strength, because the stitches of
sewing thread, by which the button is to be sewn to the garment, are to be
passed quite through the compound fabric, so as to penetrate the strong
interior woven fabric as well as the slight external fabric, and thereby the
stitches will obtain a strong hold for fastening the button securely to the
garment. The cement which is to be used for making the said compound two-
fold fabric may be india-rubber dissolved in highly rectified spirits of coal tar
or coal oil, the same as is commonly used for making Mackintosh waterproof
compound cloths, and the cement is to be applied in the same manner; or
india-rubber dissolved in highly rectified spirits of turpentine may be used;
and two-fold compound fabrics, as aforesaid, may be used for cutting out the
circular disks J, Figure 4, (also Figures 6 and 7,) in which case but little
strength is required for the covering of the backs of the buttons, and therefore,
one of the two woven fabrics, whereof the two-fold compound fabric is
composed, may be a thin cloth of a cheap material, such as cotton, to form the
interior, and the other of the two and thin cloth of silk or other choice
material for the exterior, the two being cemented together as aforesaid; and
in like manner such two-fold compound fabrics may be used for cutting out
the circular disks which are to form the fronts of covered buttons which
are made in moulds by dies with pressure; for instance, the circular disks
marked y, in Figures 5 and 8, also w, Figure 6. That one of the two thick-
ness of the two-fold compound fabrics which is to form the exterior surface of
the front of the button being in all cases a choice material, but which may be
of thin substance; and the other of the two thicknesses which is to be interior
being a cheaper material, to give strength to the said exterior thickness, to
which it is cemented in manner aforesaid. And such two-fold compound
fabric will be waterproof, and will consequently prevent water getting through
to the internal metal shell, and rusting the same, and disks of paper, which arc
usually interposed between the metal and the cloth covering, may be dispensed
with. And further, the said circular disks so cut out of such two or more fold
fabrics, as aforesaid, for covering the fronts of buttons, may be embossed by
pressure in suitable dies, so as to exhibit any ornamental pattern or device, and
the disks so embossed being used for the front coverings of covered buttons o
any of the various kinds that are or can be made in moulds by dies with pres
sure; the fronts of the covered buttons so made will exhibit such ornamenta
pattern or device in relief. The two-fold compound fabric for such embossing
may be composed of a strong thick cloth of cotton for the interior, with a thir

page_text: fabric of silk (such as satin) cemented thereto for the exterior; or two
moderately thick cloths of cotton may be used for the interior, and a thin
fabric of silk for the exterior, all three being cemented together so as to form
a three-fold fabric; or leather may be used for the interior, cemented to a thin
fabric of silk for the exterior, forming two thicknesses, which, from the com-
pressibility of the leather, will be well adapted for such embossing; or a
woven fabric of cotton or cheap material, and a thin fabric of silk or choice
material, may have a thickness of leather interposed between them, and all
three cemented together so as to form a three-fold compound fabric, which will
be very suitable for embossing with patterns or devices raised considerably in
relief. And as to the embossing of such disks which are cut out, as afore-
said, from two or more fold fabric, the same is to be performed nearly in the
same manner, and with similar dies to those commonly used for stamping or
embossing shells of thin metal for making buttons, but the said dies are not
to be used in an ordinary screw press instead of in a stamp; all a which is well
known and commonly practised by button-makers, but a less force of pressure
should be used for embossing such disks of two or more fold fabric than is
commonly used for embossing shells of metal. And such disks of two or
more fold compound fabric, so embossed as aforesaid, are to be used in the
making of such covered buttons as are made in moulds by dies with pressure
for the front coverings of any description of such buttons, and used in the
same manner in every respect as disks cut out of one thickness of woven
fabric are commonly used in the making of such buttons; and the fronts of
the buttons so made, according to this part of my present improvements, will
exhibit the ornamental pattern or device which has been so embossed, as
aforesaid; and inasmuch as that the pressure exerted on such embossed front
coverings by the dies in the moulds at the moment of the formation of such
buttons may tend to flatten down the embossing, the said embossing may be
made so much the more prominently and in higher relief at the time of
embossing the said disks of two or more fold fabric than the embossing is
intended or required to appear on the front of the buttons when finished.
And another part of my said improvements in manufacturing button
relates to the circular disks for the backs of such covered buttons as are made in
moulds by dies with pressure, in cases when such buttons are to be completely
covered all over the backs as well as at the fronts. Those disks are to be cut
out of thick paper or pasteboard, having a strong woven fabric cemented
thereto with cement of dissolved india-rubber, with which a portion of
dissolved rosin may be mixed, as herein-before mentioned in reference to
Figure 3. The said woven fabric so cemented to thick paper or pasteboard

page_text: being suitable for covering the backs of the buttons, and forming the flexible
shanks therefor, according to my aforesaid former Patent of One thousand
eight hundred and thirty-one, but the said woven fabric may be a two-fold
compound fabric, as herein-before described, cemented upon thick paper or
pasteboard; and the circular disks for the backs of buttons are to be
cut out of such compound of strong woven fabric or of two-fold fabric
with thick paper or pasteboard cemented together; and the circular disks so
cut out are to be used in place of and as the substitute for the internal
metal back 5 in Figure 3 and 8, and the circular piece of woven fabric 4,
and the circular disk of paper 3; and such disk so cut out of such com-
pound of woven fabric and pasteboard are to be used in the making of
the buttons in every respect in the same manner as the said parts 5, 4, and
3, Figures 3 and 8, would be used; and the buttons so made with such sub-
stitution will have the same external appearance of covered backs, serving
as flexible shanks to the buttons, as if they were made according to my said
former Patent of One thousand eight hundred and thirty-one, or as if they
were made as herein-before described in reference to Figures 3 or 8, and will
be as firm and as good, but will occasion less trouble than the cutting out of
and putting together of three separate pieces 4, 5, and 3.
And another part of my present improvements in manufacturing buttons for
wearing apparel relates to the fronts of edge pattern buttons of the kind
herein-before mentioned as having been made and registered, Third February,
One thousand eight hundred and forty-one, by Mr. Chatwin, and which
exhibit a border edge or margin around the circumference of the front of
the button, that margin being part of a cloth covering which turns over all
around the edge of the button from the back thereof. My improvement
thereon (now describing) is an ornamental front of a new character and ap-
pearance, for filling up the front within the said margin, and consists of a thin
shell of metal, being brass of the kind called gilding metal, see N, Figure 9,
which is raised all round its circumference by stamping to any suitable form
for the edges of metal fronts for making such buttons, and the flat circular
surface is embossed by pressure in suitable dies with any ornamental pattern
cr device, so that the same shall appear in high relief at the central part, but
with a narrow border rim all around the circumference of the front, which rim
is in equally high relief with the pattern v; or, in other words, that part of
the surface of the circular front which is to exhibit the ground whereon the
pattern or device is to appear, is sunk below the level of those parts of the
said surface which are to exhibit the pattern or device. And the metal being
so embossed may be put into a solution of acid (called pickle), to remove any

page_text: oxyde, and then the parts which are to exhibit the ground of the pattern or
device (and which as already mentioned are sunk) are to be filled up quite full
to an even surface with the pattern, by applying black japan or other colour,
as may best suit the pattern, which japan is to be dried in a japanner's stove,
and after being so well dried as to become hard, then the japan is to be ground
and polished by rubbing it on any suitable surface or surfaces with emery or
other grinding and polishing materials, so as reduce the surface of the japan
which exhibits the ground of the pattern, and the embossed metal which exhibits
the ornamental pattern or device, to an exact even surface one with the other,
and the metal becoming polished will give the pattern or device a brilliant appear-
ance on the ground, which appearance is to be preserved by japan varnishing
or laquering, and drying in a stove; or the metal in that state may be gilded
or silvered by the well-known new electrotype process over so much of the
front as exhibits the pattern or device, and that gilding or silvering is after-
wards to be burnished, and may be further ornamented by chasing, if desired.
And such shells, with ornamented fronts so prepared, are to be used (but with-
out any covering of cloth over them) for the fronts of edge pattern buttons,
being so used in every respect in the same manner as the metal shells are
commonly used for the fronts in the making of such edge pattern buttons
(except as to the absence of any cloth covering); and the edge border or
margin of cloth around the front of such edge pattern buttons will form a
border around the ornamental metal of the front, which ornamental metal
will fill up the central part of the front within such border; and similar shells,
with ornamental fronts so prepared as aforesaid, may be used for forming the
fronts of buttons made in moulds with dies by pressure, having flexible shanks
of any of the kinds of flexible shanks which are commonly known or used
for such buttons; the edges at the circumference of the shell, Figure 9, being
in that case adapted for receiving and fastening the circumference of the parts
for the back of the button, and for the flexible shank thereof within those said
edges, whereas on the contrary, in Figure 9, the circumference of the said
shell is adapted to be received into and fastened within the edges of a metal
shell, instead of being adapted for receiving the circumference of the parts for
the back of the button.
Another part of my said improvents in manufacturing buttons for wear-
ing apparel relates to those circular disks of metal which are commonly used
for the fronts or for the backs, in the usual manner of making covered buttons
in moulds by dies with pressure. According to this part of my said improve-
ments, such disks are to be cut out of thinner metal than is usually employed
for such disks, and of a larger size, and then so much of the circumference, as

page_text: is larger than usual is to be turned up at right angles to the plane of the disk
to a raised rim all around, and then that rim is to be flattened down inwards
by pressure, so as to fold the said edge close down upon the flat surface of the
disk, and thereby obtain a disk which will be of the usual size, but very thin,
and will have a double thickness all around its circumference to give it as
much strength and stiffness as is required; and the exterior circumference of
the disk so obtained will be a smoothly rounded edge resulting from the fold-
ing down of the raised rim, and that rounded edge will not be liable to cut
through the cloth of the covering which is to be turned over around such edge,
as is frequently the case with the sharply cut edges which must necessarily be
left around the circumferences of the circular disks of metal in the ordinary
mode of cutting out such disks, see Figure 10, wherein 7 is the large circular
disk of thin metal, as the same is first cut out of a sheet of very thin metal
plate; and m is the state into which the circumference of such large disk is
turned up all round at right angles to the flat plane of the disk; and n is the
state into which the same disk is afterwards brought by flattening down the
said edges all round close upon the flat plane of the disk, so as to obtain a
disk of the size required with very thin metal for the surface, but with a border
of doubled thickness all around the circumference, and with a smooth rounded
edge of folded metal all around the exterior of that circumference. And the
circular disks of metal n, so formed, are to be used in place of and as substi-
tutes for the usual circular disks of like size, as n (but cut out of thicker
metal), would be used in the making of any kind of covered buttons in moulds
by dies with pressure, either for internal metal fronts of such buttons, or for
internal metal backs for them, or for metal collets at the backs of such
buttons. The metal may require to be raised or bended by degrees from the
flat state 7, to the state m, and then to the state n; that is to say, the first
bending up of the circumference of all round from its flat surface may be
done by bending the same up only half way towards the state of m, which
state may be obtained by a second operation, and the metal may be annealed
to render it more flexible; in like manner, the bending down inwards of the
edges of m may be done by bending the same down only half way inwards
towards the state of n, the metal being annealed, if requisite; and thin brass
plate may be used instead of iron plates, if preferred. Figure 11 represents a
new mode of making flexible shank buttons, which will be covered over nearly
the whole of the back, as well as over nearly the whole of the front. n,
Figure 11, is a metal disk, the same as n, Figure 10 (except being being
represented with the contrary side upwards in those two Figures 10 and 11).
The said disk for n, Figure 11, being first prepared, as already described, with

page_text: a double edge all round, that disk n (which is for the metal back of the
button) is bended by pressure between suitable dies (and by as may successive
pressures as may be requisite) into the form shewn in section at p, with a
circular groove all round the circumference, and the central part of the metal
back p is bended to a convexity suitable for the metal back of the button, also
a hole is cut through the centre of p. J is a circular disk of cloth (without
any perforation, and similar to J, Figure 4,) of suitable size to be applied and
cemented to the convex back of the disk or metal back p, in the same manner
as already described in reference to Figure 4, the central part of the cloth J
covering over the central hole of p. U is an ordinary flexible shank which is
put within the concavity of the metal back p, with the flexible sbank of U
protruding the central hole of p. The metal disk æ, for the front of the button,
with its circular covering y of cloth, and a disk of paper interposed between
them, is applied to the metal back p, so that the aforesaid circular groove
around the circumference of p will receive the circumference of the cloth
covering y, where the same extends beyond the circumference of the metal
front x, and it is by the cloth so entering into that circular groove all round the
circumference of the metal back. p, that the union of the parts for the back
and for the front of the button is to be effected. And after the said parts
p, J, and U, for the back of the button, and the parts x and y, for the
front of the button, have been brought together in manner aforesaid
within the hollow of the mould, then by pressure of the die upon all the
said parts they are squeezed together, and the button is completed. And the
buttons so made will be covered over nearly the whole of the back by the
piece of cloth J, which also extends over and covers that part of the flexible
sbank U which protrudes through the central hole of the metal back p,
but a part of the circumference of that metal back P will remain exposed,
and shewing a narrow border rim of metal all around the button. The
metal edge of. p, which is thus exposed, may be japan varnished. The
size of the piece of cloth J is such that it extended over the whole of the
convexity of the metal back p, when J was applied and cemented thereto,
as already mentioned, wherefore the circumference of the cloth J reached
to that narrow circular crevice which was then left all around the cir-
cumference of the convexity of the metal back p, in consequence of the
bending of the metal of p, to form the aforesaid circular groove around it;
and by the prepare of the die in the mould, the interior of that groove
became closed up, and the metal constituting the said groove became flattened
down towards the convexity of the metal back p, and thereby the circumference
of the back covering J became fastened and concealed, as well as the circum-

page_text: ference of the front covering y; the circumference of y being so fastened in
consequence of being within the circular groove when that groove was closed
up, and the circumference of J being so fastened and concealed in consequence
of the metal constituting the said groove being flattened down towards the
convexity of the metal back p, and instead of the piece of cloth J, for the back
covering, being extended over the flexible shank, the said piece of cloth may
have a small perforation at its centre, and the central part of the cloth around
that perforation may be pushed through the central hole of the metal back
and cemented to the inside concavity of the metal back p around that hole, in
which case that part of the flexible shank U which protrudes through the
central hole of the metal back p will also protrude through the central hole of
the back covering J, as was the case in my aforesaid former Patent of One
thousand eight hundred and forty-one. Or, instead of the metal back p
Figure 11, being perforated at the centre, and instead of using an ordinary
flexible shank, such as U, the circular piece of cloth for covering the back
may be strongly woven fabric (or a compound two or more fold fabric), which
will serve for a flexible shank, as was the case in my aforesaid former Patent
of One thousand eight hund eight hundred and thirty-one, and as herein-before
described in reference to Figure 3. And the button, Figure 11, may be
completely covered all over, so as to cover and conceal that narrow metal
edge of the metal back p which is left exposed as herein-before mentioned in
Figure 11, provided that the piece of cloth for the back covering is made so
much larger than J, Figure 11, as that its circumference will wrap all around
the exterior circumference of the metal back p, see Figure 12, where r repre-
sents such a large circular piece of cloth for the back covering; and it may
either be without a perforation at the centre, or it may be perforated, according
as it is intended to cover over that part of the flexible shank U which is to
protrude through the central hole of the metal back or not, as already explained
in reference to Figure 11. The large circular piece of cloth r is to be cemented
to the convex back surface of the metal back p, and that part of the cloth r
which is near to its circumference all round is to be pressed closely into the
narrow circular crevice which, as before mentioned, extends all around the cir-
cumference of the convexity of the metal back p, and the outer circumference
of the circular piece of cloth r is turned up all around the outer circumference
of the metal back p, and over into the circular groove around the said back p,
and it is when the said back covering r is in that state that the parts for the
front of the button are to be applied, with the circumference of the front
covering y inserted into the said circular groove all round the metal back p, in
the manner already described in reference to Figure 11; but in the present

page_text: case, that
groove also contains the circumference of the back covering r; and
when by pressure with the die the several parts are pressed together in the
mould, as already explained in reference to Figure 11, the back covering r
will become securely fastened in at two places, viz, around its exterior cir-
cumference it will be fastened into the same circular groove as the exterior
circumference of the front covering y is fastened into, and the back covering r
will also be fastened near to its circumference all around in that a marrow
circular crevice, already explained in reference to Figure 11, where, in that
case, the exterior circumference of the back covering J was fastened. The said
fastening in the present case of the back covering near its circumference all round
being in consequence of the cloth of the said covering forming a fold or doubling
of its own thickness into the said narrow circular crevice all round the same.
Another part of my said improvements in manufacturing buttons relates to
the preparation of flexible shanks to be used in place of (and in the same
manner as) those marked U, Figures 4 and 6. The woven fabric for the
flexible shanks may be of the same kind as is commonly used for ordinary
flexible shanks; or, instead thereof, a compound two or more fold fabric,
herein-before described, may be used; but in either case, according to this part
of my improvements, such fabric is to be cemented upon sheets of very thick
coarse paper by means of cement compounded of dissolved india-rubber and
dissolved rosin, and circular disks are to be cut out of such compound of thick
paper and woven fabric, or of thick paper and two or more fold fabric, and
then such circular disks are, by pressure between suitable dies, to be raised to
the form of a hat in minature. The parts thereof which answer to the crown
and sides of a hat are to be inserted through the central hole of the metal
back, so as to protrude through that hole, and the part answering to the brim
of a hat is to be applied to and cemented to the inside of the concavity of the
metal back around the central hole, so as thereby to fasten the flexible shank
securely in place, and prevent the shank from being drawn out through the
hole, see Figure 13, where P represents one of the said circular disks cut out,
as aforesaid, from the compound of thick paper and woven fabric, or two or
more fold fabric, and Q represents one of the said circular disks after it has
been raised by pressure of dies to the form of a hat in minature, and Q is in a
fit state fit for use in making the button. The paper side of the compound is
to be at that side which answers to the inside of a hat, and the woven fabric
(or two or more fold fabric) the outside; there is nothing peculiar or requiring
description in the dies between which the pressure is to be effected, but they
should be so made as that the part of Q which answers to the circular crown of
a hat should not be squeezed to any less thickness than the thickness of the

page_text: disk P, but it is only the part which answers to the brim of a hat that is to be
squeezed and compressed in thickness, and pressed to a form which will suit
the concavity of the interior of the metal back around the central hole thereof,
the part of Q which answers to the crown of a hat being left uncompressed,
and of the full thickness of the disk P; the same, when it is made to protrude
through the central hole of the metal back, will remain soft and suitable for
being penetrated by a needle in making the stitches by which the button is to
be sewn to the garment. Flexible shanks will be very easy to make in the
said improved manner; and by the cementing of the woven fabric (or two or
more fold fabric) to the thick paper, before the cutting out into disks is
commenced, the woven fabric will be made very secure; and by the subsequent
pressing of such disks into the form, they will be made to fit exactly to the interior
concavity of the metal back, so as to apply closely for being securely cemented
to that concavity all around the central hole of the metal back. The cement
for that purpose may be dissolved india-rubber, to which a small quantity of
dissolved pitch may be added to give more adhesiveness. The improvement
consists in cementing the paper to the woven fabric or two-fold fabric, and
cutting out disks from the compound, and then pressing those disks into the
required form for the flexible shanks.
Having now described my said improvements in manufacturing buttons for
wearing apparel, I, the said Benjamin Aingworth, do hereby declare that
the new Invention, whereof the exclusive use is granted to me by the
Letters Patent herein-before first mentioned, consists in the following par-
ticulars, viz
Firstly, the improvement of manufacturing paper buttons, in manner herein-
before described in reference to Figures 1 and 2 of the Drawing hereunto
annexed, by commencing the formation of such buttons from pulp prepared in
the same manner as for making coarse paper, or pasteboard or millboard, instead
of cutting out disks from sheets of pasteboard, and making buttons from such
disks, as has been hitherto done.
Secondly, the improvement, herein-before described in reference to Figure 3,
of cementing the internal metal back 4 to the circular disk of strongly woven
fabric 5, which is to form the flexible shank, and the covering for the backs of
buttons made according to my aforesaid former Patent of One thousand eight
hundred and thirty-one; the said disk 5 being only of the same size as the
internal metal back 4, whereby material is economized, and the cementing of
those parts together renders it unnecessary for the circumference of the circular
disk 5 to be wrapped over around the circumference of the internal metal
back 4, as has been hitherto done for secure fastening.

page_text: Thirdly, the improvement, herein-before described in reference to Figure 4,
of applying a circular disc J of suitable woven fabric to cover over the whole
surface of the backs of ordinary flexible shank buttons, which have the flexible
shank protruded at the centre of the back of the button through the central
hole of a metal collet I; the said disk J, according to this part of my present
improvements, covering over that part of the flexible shank which so protrudes,
instead of the said disk J being perforated at the centre, and allowing that
said part of the flexible shank to protrude through the central hole of the said
disk J, as well as through the central hole of the collet, as was the case in my
aforesaid former Patent of One thousand eight hundred and forty-one.
Fourthly, the improvement, herein-before described in reference to Figures
5, 6, and 7, of applying coverings of woven fabric to the backs of such covered
buttons as are designated edge pattern buttons (and which designation has
been herein-before explained), the said covering which I so apply being either
a disk of strongly woven fabric, such as 4, Figure 5, which covers over the
whole surface of the back, and also forms the flexible shank to the button, in
the manner of the backs and flexible shanks in my aforesaid former Patent of
One thousand eight hundred and thirty-one; or else the said covering being a
circular piece of cloth, such as J, Figure 6, (perforated at the centre), and
applied and cemented to and covering the back surface of the metal collet,
through the central hole of which part of the flexible shank is protruded, and
in so protruding that part also passing through the central hole of the piece of
cloth J, in the manner of my aforesaid former Patent of One thousand eight
hundred and forty-one; or else the said covering being a circular piece of
cloth, such as J, Figure 7, (without any perforation at the centre, applied and
cemented to the back surface of the metal collet, so as to cover that surface,
and also covering over that part of the flexible shank which protrudes through
the central hole of the metal collet.
Fifthly, the improvement, herein-before described in reference to Figure 8,
for making edge pattern buttons with an internal metal disk, such as K,
Figure 8, which is bended so as to have a circular recess at its back for
receiving the circumferences of the parts for the back of the button, and also
for receiving and fastening the back part of the cloth covering which is to
cover all around the edge of the circumference of the button, and form edge
borders or margins around the back as well as around the front of the button;
the said parts for the backs of such buttons being covered, and having flexible
shanks, which may be either a circular piece of strongly woven fabric, such as
4, Figure 8, forming a covering for the back, and also forming the flexible

page_text: shank, in the manner of my aforesaid former Patent of One thousand eigh
hundred and thirty-one; or else the covering for the back may be a circula
piece of cloth, such as J, Figure 6, (except as to being of a smaller size,) per
forated at the centre, and applied and cemented to the back surface of the
metal collet, through the central hole of which part of the flexible shank is
protruded, and in so protruding that part also passing through the central hole
of the piece of cloth J, in the manner of my aforesaid former Patent of One
thousand eight hundred and forty-one; or else the said covering being a
circular piece of cloth, such as J, Figure 4, (except as to being of a smaller
size, and without any perforation at the centre,) applied and cemented to the
back surface of the metal collet, so as to cover that surface, and also covering
over that part of the flexible shank which protrudes through the central hole
of the metal collet.
Sixthly, the improvement, herein-before described, of the application to the
covering of covered buttons made in moulds by dies with pressure, of com-
pound two or more fold fabrics cemented together, in the manner of what are
commonly called Mackintosh waterproof cloths, or a compound of a woven
fabric and leather, or a compound of two woven fabrics with leather between
them, all three being cemented together, or a compound of three woven fabrics
so cemented together, and then circular disks being cut out from such com-
pound two-fold or three-fold fabric, to be used for the coverings of such buttons,
as aforesaid, and such disks may be used for covering the backs of buttons in
place of such disks, as 4, Figures 4, 6, and 7, in which case the said disk of
compound two or three-fold fabric (being of a suitable thickness and strength)
will form the covering for the back of the button, and also the flexible shank
therefore; or such disks being cut out of a compound two or more fold fabric
cf suitable thinness, may be used in place of such disks, as J, Figures 4, 6,
and 7, or may be used in place of any other disks which can be required for
for covering the backs of such covered buttons, as aforesaid; or such disks
being cut out of a compound. two or more fold fabric of suitable materials and
thickness, and presenting a suitable external appearance for the fronts of such
covered buttons, as aforesaid, may be used for the covering of such fronts, and
when so used for covering the fronts, the said circular disks so cut out of a
suitable compound two or more fold fabric may be embossed with any orna-
mental pattern or device by the pressure of suitable dies, in manner herein-
before described, so as when the said embossed disks are used for covering the
fronts of the buttons, those fronts will exhibit the ornamental pattern or device
which has been so embossed.

page_text: Seventhly, the improvement, herein-before described, of using for the backs.
of buttons a compound of pasteboard and strong woven fabric, suitable for
forming flexible shanks, cemented together, which strong woven fabric may
be a compound of two fabrics cemented together, and circular disks being cut
out of such compound of pasteboard with strong woven fabric (or two-fold
fabric) are to be used for the backs of such buttons as are in other respects
according to my aforesaid Patent of One thousand eight hundred and thirty-
onc.
Eighthly, in the improvement, herein-before described in reference to
Figure 9, of a new kind of ornamental front for buttons, by embossing disks
of thin metal so as to exhibit an ornaniental pattern or device on the fronts of
such disks, the ground of which pattern is then to be filled up to an even
surface all over the fronts of the disks by japanning, and the whole reduced by
grinding and polishing to an even surface, in which the bright metal will show
the pattern or device, and that bright metal may be gilded or laquered; such
ornamental disks being used for the fronts of edge pattern buttons, or for
the fronts of buttons made in moulds by dies with pressure, having
flexible shanks of any kind which are commonly known or used for such
battons.
Ninthly, in the improvement, herein-before described in reference to Figure
10, in the preparation of circular disks of metal which are to be used for the
internal metal shells for manufacturing any kind of covered buttons which are
made in moulds by dies with pressure, folding the thin metal all round
the circumference of such disks, so as to obtain a border of doubled thickness
of metal all round the circumference, and a smooth rounded edge of folded
metal all round the exterior of that circumference, as herein-before described.
Tenthly, in the improvement, herein-before described in reference to Figures
11 and 12, in making covered buttons with flexible shanks with a metal back,
which is bended so as to form a circular channel all round its circum-
ference, for the reception of the circumference of the cloth covering for the
front of the button, in order to fasten that covering securely in place, or
for the reception of the circumferences of both the coverings for the back and
for the front of the button, for fastening of both those coverings, as herein-
before described.
Eleventhly, in the improvement, herein-before described in reference to
Figure 13, in the preparation of flexible shanks for covered buttons made in
moulds by dies with pressure, by cutting out circular disks from compound
sheets of thick paper and woven fabric (or two or more fold fabric) cemented

page_text: together, and pressing those disks into a suitable form for being used as flexible
shanks, in manner herein-before described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Benjamin Aingworth, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Sixth day of August, One thousand eight
hundred and forty-four.
Gray's Inn,
Solicitor.
AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the Sixth day of August, in the
eighth year of the reign of Her Majesty Queen Victoria, the said Benjamin
Aingworth came before our said Lady the Queen in Her Chancery, and
acknowledged the instrument aforesaid, and all and every thing therein con-
tained and specified, in form above written. And also the instrument aforesaid
was stamped according to the tenor of the Statute made in the fifty-fifth year
of the reign of His late Majesty King George the Third.
AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the Sixth day of August, in the
eighth year of the reign of Her Majesty Queen Victoria, the said Benjamin
Aingworth came before our said Lady the Queen in Her Chancery, and
acknowledged the instrument aforesaid, and all and every thing therein con-
tained and specified, in form above written. And also the instrument aforesaid
was stamped according to the tenor of the Statute made in the fifty-fifth year
of the reign of His late Majesty King George the Third.