Improvements in Patterns for Garments,
Year: 1898

page_text: Date of Application, 13th Sept., 1898-Accepted, 12th Nov., 1898
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION (AMENDED).
Improvements in Patterns for Garments,
I, ROBERT STEWART O'LOUGHLIN, of Glens Falls, in the County of Warren and
State of New York, United States of America, President of the Butterick Publishing
Company, Limited, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained in
and by the following statement :-
My invention consists-in-improvements-in relates to patterns for garments, and
consists in the combination as hereinafter described of marks or symbols with the
respective parts of such patterns, which marks or symbols may be are applied in the
process of manufacture or otherwise of-such-murks-or-symbols-with-the-respective-
parts by perforating and in the combination of such marks or symbols with
description and instructions for making or constructing the garment, accompanying
the pattern and either forming part thereof or separate therefrom so -that the
convenient, rapid, and accurate, identification of the respective parts of the pattern
are effected and errors and confusion peculiar or incident to the systems of
manufacturing and using patterns for garments heretofore in vogue are avoided and
rapid and accurate cutting of material to be used in making garments are facilitated
whilst the proper, rapid and accurate joining and adjustment of the respective parts
thereof in the construction of garments are ensured.
Reference is made to the accompanying drawings and illustrations for an
explanation of the nature of my invention and the manner in which it is to be
performed.
Figure 1 represents that-portion-of-a-pattern-for-a-garment-to-which is attached
what is technically known as the label. The pattern may be made of paper or other
fabric or material, but is preferably made of paper. The label is a printed
instrument which usually contains a view or views of the garment which corresponds
with the pattern, a statement of the measurement or measurements of the person for
whom or the form for which the pattern is adapted, and a statement of the quantity
or quantities of material or materials required to make up the garment according to
the measurements designated. It also contains printed instructions for producing
the garment.
Figure 2 represents a front view of the garment with which the pattern
corresponds or of the garment which can be produced by the proper use of the
pattern.
Figure 3 represents a group of outlines of the several separate pieces or portions of
a pattern which are used as a model or guide in cutting the material requisite for
making the garment and joining together the respective pieces and properly
constructing, fitting and adjusting the garment.
Heretofore the custom has been to endeavour to identify the separate portions
of the pattern (see group represented by Figure 3), by designating each separate

page_text: piece by a technical name. Unless such portions are accurately identified it is
impossible to properly construct the garment. Hitherto, on account of the difficulty
and uncertainty of identification, much confusion has been occasioned, considerable
delay experienced and great quantities of material damaged or destroyed. The
names of the respective separate portions of the pattern, as shewn in the group
represented by Figure 3, are as follows.
Front, back, side back, under arm-gore, full front, full back, vest, belt, stock, collar,
peplum, cuff, upper sleeve portion, upper sleeve portion lining, under sleeve portion,
front-gore, first side gore, second side gore, back gore, front gore for foundation skirt,
first side gore for foundation skirt, second side gore for foundation skirt, back gore
for foundation skirt, and belt for skirt. There is great difficulty in identifying each
particular part by means of its technical name. Each separate piece in most
instances, contains an indentation or indentations commonly known as notches.
These have been hitherto used to assist in giving comprehensible instructions as to
the proper joining of the several pieces. Owing to the similarity in appearance
of many of the respective parts of a given pattern, and of the necessity of placing
the same number of notches in several different portions of the same pattern, great
confusion has arisen in the past and great inconvenience and trouble has been caused
through inability to distinguish accurately the different parts of a pattern by means
of its technical name or of the number of notches indented therein for the purpose
of showing the places of joining.
My invention makes impossible any confusion or difficulty in identifying the
respective parts of the pattern, or of properly joining the same together. This will
appear more fully by a reference to the group of figures numbered respectively
Figure 4 to Figure 27, inclusive.
Figure 4, which represents the front of the pattern is distinguished or identified
by the perforated mark or symbol represented by the numeral 1. This mark or
symbol may consist of a letter, number, arbitrary sign or other character, or of
a combination of words, letters, numerals, arbitrary signs or other characters. I
prefer to use numerals and have selected these for the purpose of illustrating my
invention. These marks or symbols may-be-placed-on are applied to the respective
portions of the pattern by any suitable-menus;-such as printing, stamping, stencilling
- perforating or-cutting-into the material of which the pattern is made. I-prefer
makin-the-marks or symbols by means of perforation.
In the pattern illustrated there are twenty-four pieces which have already been
named. Figure 4, which is perforated with the numeral 1, represents the front;
Figure 5, which is perforated with the numeral 2, represents the back; Figure 6
which is perforated with the numeral 3 represents the side back; Figure 7 which
is perforated with the numeral 4, represents the under-arm gore; Figure 8, which
is perforated with the numeral 5, represents the full front; Figure 9, which is
perforated with the numeral 6 represents full back; Figure 10, which is perforated
with the numeral 7 represents the vest; Figure 11, which is perforated with the
numeral 8, represents the belt; Figure 12 which is perforated with the numeral 9
represents the stock; Figure 13 which is perforated with the numeral 10 represents
the collar; Figure 14 which is perforated with the nnmeral 11, represents the
peplum; Figure 15, which is perforated with the numeral 12 represents the cuff;
Figure 16 which is perforated with the numeral 13 represents the upper sleeve
portion; Figure 17, which is perforated with the numeral 14 represents the upper
sleeve portion lining; Figure 18, which is perforated with the numeral 15 represents
under sleeve portion; Figure 19, which is perforated with the numeral 16, represents
the front gore; Figure 20 which is perforated with the numeral 17, represents the
first side gore: Figure 21 which is perforated with the numeral 18 represents the
second side gore; Figure 22 which is perforated with the numeral 19, represents the
back-gore Figure 23 which is perforated with the numeral 20 represents the front
gore for foundation skirt; Figure 24 which is perforated with the numeral 21,
represents the first side-gore for foundation skirt; Figure 25 which is perforated
with the numeral 22 represents the second side gore for foundation skirt; Figure 26

page_text: which is perforated with the numeral 23 represents the back-gore for foundation skirt;
Figure 27 which is perforated with the numeral 24 represents the belt for the skirt.
By the use of the marks and symbolds and of the combination of the same with
the parts or whole of the pattern in the description and instructions given for pro-
ducing the garment, the identification of each separate portion of the pattern is
rendered certain and absolute, the instructions rendered incapable of misconstruction,
and the convenient, rapid and accurate production of the garment assured. The
confusion and error arising from the use of patterns in making garments as heretofore
practiced more particularly when used by persons unfamiliar with technical terms
or unskilled in the arts of cutting fitting and adjusting, are thus rendered impossible
and a scientific accurate and simple method of imparting instructions in the art of
cutting, fitting, adjusting and constructing garments is thus established and the value
of patterns as models or guides for the construction of garments is considerably
enhanced.
1 limit myself to making the marks or symbols by perforating because then the pieces
of fabric which are cut out from the portions of the pattern can be similarly marked
by rubbing a material such as chalk through the perforations.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of this inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is :-
The combination with patterns for garments of perforated marks or symbols as a
means of identification of the separate parts thereof for facilitating the understanding
of the-description-and-instructions making of garments substantially as hereinbefore
described.