IMPROVEMENTS IN AND ADDITIONS TO MACHINES FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF LACE, ESPECIALLY APPLI- CABLE TO THE SYSTEM KNOWN AS MALHERE'S
Year: 1876

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Edouard Simon, of the Firm La Compagnie Dentelliere
de France, of Paris, France, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN AND
ADDITIONS TO MACHINES FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF LACE, ESPECIALLY APPLI-
CABLE TO THE SYSTEM KNOWN AS MALHERE'S." A communication from the
Compagnie Dentelliere de France, a Society residing at Paris, in the Republic
of France.
"
Sealed the 20th April 1877, and dated the 23rd October 1876.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said, Edouard Simon at the Office
of the Commissioners of Patents on the 23rd October 1876.
EDOUARD SIMON, of the Firm La Compagnie Dentelliere de France, of Paris,
France. "IMPROVEMENTS IN AND ADDITIONS TO MACHINES FOR THE MANUFACTURE
OF LACE, ESPECIALLY APPLICABLE TO THE SYSTEM KNOWN AS MALHÈRE'S."
This Invention relates to improvements in the machines or frames for manu-
facturing mechanically a lace identical to real hand lace comprised in the Letters
Patent dated the 20th March, 1872, No. 852, and the 16th June, 1873, No. 2121,
both granted to Mr. Eugène Malhère.
In the Inventions protected by the above Letters Patents, which have been
assigned to the Compagnie Dentelliere de France, the principle of the machine or
system and the chief organs of the mechanism have been so sufficiently described
that it is now only necessary to specify the modifications and improvements in
which the present Invention consists. These modifications and improvements leave
intact the principle of the system, and relates to the general arrangement of the
machine, the construction of its principal organs, the nature of the driving
mechanism, and lastly to the arrangements of secondary importance, such as the
transmission bands and the jacquard apparatus, the actions of which have had to be
accommodated to the requirements of the new machine.
In order to render the explanations of these various arrangements clear, Drawings
are annexed, Sheet 1 illustrates the whole of the improved machine, Sheet 2 its
different parts in detached views.
Description of the general arrangement, Sheet 1, Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5.-
Figure 1 is a vertical section of the machine made following the axis of one of the
pins; and Figure 2 is a plan of the same.

page_text: Figure 3 represents upon an exaggerated scale a fragment of one of the meshes
of the lace, which can be produced by this machine.
Figure 4 is a diagram showing the positions of a series of discs corresponding to
the various phases of the formation of such a mesh as is shown at Figure 3.
I have not thought it necessary to show a diagram of the other mesh, which is
derived from the first.
Figure 5 shows a fragment of another mesh as an example only.
As in the primitive system the twistings and crossings of the threads which
concur in the formation of the real lace are effected by the peculiar action of little
bobbins mounted upon carriages which are put in rotation by discs, upon which
they can be carried from one disc to the other. These discs carried by the pins
are arranged at the circumference of a circle, and the pins follow the direction of
radii.
The threads forming prolongations of the pins converge towards the centre, where
are fixed by means of needles the interlacements which form the lace.
The whole of the machine, seen from above, assumes thus in some sort the
appearance of a fan. The frame of the machine is composed of a table X in the
form of a sector resting upon feet Y, Y, and maintaining two concentric rings Z, Z,
serving as a support to the pins which radiate towards the centre, where are found
the needles.
The drawers which command the respective movements of the discs, the bobbins,
and the pins, are united with a jacquard mechanism installed above the frame.
The bands of lace which proceed from the comb constituted by the whole of the
pins always independent one from the other pass between the call rollers, on the
other side of which they roll upon a cylinder or fall freely into a receiver.
It is not essential that the frame should be of a circular form, and the discs may
be arranged in a right line upon a rectangular frame unless it is necessary to bring
the threads into convergence upon a given point.
As in the original system the discs are tangents or nearly in the same horizontal
series, but this tangence of the discs may also be in a vertical direction. The use
of this tangence in either the vertical or the horizontal direction is to permit the
circulation of the bobbins from some one point of the machine to another. In other
terms any one bobbin can be removed successively from pin to pin upon all the discs
of the machine in a general and unlimited manner. To satisfy this condition it is
evident that the diametrical grooves in which the bobbins move ought to be able
to take the direction of the movement to be imparted to those bobbins, that is to
say, that the grooves ought to present themselves in prolongation of one another,
either in the horizontal direction or in the vertical direction, and consequently the
discs should turn at will a quarter, or a half turn, or even three-quarters of a turn,
in order to economize in certain particular cases the time of a "motion," and bring
the groove into either a horizontal or vertical position in any direction of rotation.
The bobbins can also be made to move in oblique directions in order to bring
them directly by a single motion from a disc of the first series to a disc of the second
series.
The ranging, the distribution, and the twisting of the threads once effected the
maintenance of the interlacement is obtained by means of points or blades con-
stituting needles with automatic displacement, either in the same manner as is
described in the Specifications of the preceding Patents or as will be presently
described, or in any other manner.
Formation of the Mesh, Sheet 1, Figures 3 and 4.-In order to better understand
the object which it is proposed to accomplish I have shown upon an exaggerated
scale, and by way of example, the interlacings of a mesh of lace (Figure 3) without,
it should be well understood, limiting myself to the form of mesh shown or to any
other, the machine being able to produce all kinds of lace without distinction,
which previously to its Invention were only made by the hand spindle, among others 5
the Valenciennes shown at Figure 5. In Figure 4 the various positions occupied
by the bobbins of thread 1, 2, 3, etc. upon the discs 1, 2, 3, 4, etc. of the same hori-

page_text: zontal series are shown during all the phases of the work of interlacing. Thus, firstly,
position No. 1, the threads are upon the discs 1, 3, 5, 7,
- after a half turn upon
---
these discs in the direction of right to left (position 2) the thread 3 is twisted with
the thread 2, the thread 5 with the thread 4-and the interlacings a, a, - - - - are
obtained as in Figure 3. Some of the carriages are then slid in the direction of the
diameters of the points of contact situated upon a horizontal plane, so as to bring
the threads 2 and 5 upon the discs 4 and 6, and 9 upon the disc 8 (position 3).
---
e, e, e,
f. f. f. -
---
---
In now effecting the half turn of the discs 4, 8, 12, the thread 2 is twisted
with the thread 5, the thread 6 with the thread 9 (position 4), which give the inter-
.lacings b, b, of the Figure 3. The manner in which the interlacings c, c,
d, d, d,
of the mesh are effected
- 9, 9, 9,- ·h, h, h,.
will be clearly understood by merely looking at the other positions.
The positions of the needles are represented in Figure 3 by the signs 900 - - At
the head of the diagram is indicated by arrows the direction of the rotation of the
pins for the required interlacing, but for other needs the direction of the movement
can be changed.
From what precedes it has been understood that the interlacements are the
result of successive movements of the rotation of the discs and the transport of the
bobbins; for the mesh given as an example in Figure 3 it is necessary to produce
13 changes for an entire range of meshes with the intervention of two for placings
of needles at the least, or of a greater number if it be thought necessary to effect
each interlacement separately.
Pins, Sheet 2, Figures 1, 2, 3, and 4.-Figures 1 and 2 are two sections,
the one vertical and the other horizontal, of a pin provided with its dise, with
a bobbin, and with organs serving to produce the displacement of this bobbin. The
rotation of these discs is obtained, as has been explained above, by the inter-
mediation of pins, upon which are mounted the discs, each pin turning indifferently
from right to left or from left to right, The tube which constitutes the pin encloses
the new organs for the displacement of the bobbins. This pin is composed, 1st, of
a tube a; 2ndly, of a disc b fixed to one of the extremities of the tube by the aid
of a screw, or otherwise; 3rdly, of two half rounded rods c, c¹, capable of gliding
longitudinally in this tube, and terminated at one end by a jointed piece d, d³,
serving to determine the lateral displacement of the bobbins, and at the other by
a tail piece ff, capable of receiving the action of a blade g carrying a spur.
In the part of the disc situated beyond that occupied by the tube a diametral
slot is formed, within which move the pushers d, d, each of which jointed to the
point with the corresponding half rounded rod can take the extreme positions
indicated by the two dotted lines at Figure 2.
If the rod c were pushed in the direction of the arrow by means of the tail piece,
of which mention was made above, the pushing piece d exerting pressure upon
the pin i, which is fixed, there would result a sliding in the slot j, and when this
sliding has reached its limit the pusher will take a symmetrical position indicated
by the dotted lines upon the piece d. It can be conceived that if the fixed pin in
question were movable with the pushing piece upon which it is secured it would
command the movement of the pusher by following a groove formed upon one of
the inner faces of the diametral slot of the discs. In this movement of the pusher
a bobbin placed upon the disc b would be shifted upon the neighbouring disc sliding
in the groove k.
In order to permit this shifting of the bobbin from one disc to another the
separating partitions of the inner ring z are formed with the same groove as the
discs themselves.
Bobbin. The carriage of the bobbin has its tail of a form corresponding to the
groove, and in order that the displacement may not take place, except when intended,
it is desirable to adapt a brake upon the tail of the carriage. This brake is capable of
very varied forms and arrangement, it may consist of plates (lamettes) fixed either
upon the tail itself or upon the cheeks of the disc grooves, but I will indicate a
means which appears to possess very great advantages. In the axis of the carriage
A 2

page_text: (Figures 1 and 2) a hole is formed, not piercing through all the breadth of the
piece; and at the orifice of this hole is arranged a transverse groove m of square
form in the direction of the slide. A little piece of T form is lodged in the hole
and in the groove, leaving in the hole a sufficient space for a little open spiral spring
to find room there; this spring guided by the branch n of the T piece is then
placed as in a case. If the branch o of the T piece cannot be completely lodged in
the groove m of the tail without repelling the spring this branch will form a brake
in the bottom of the slide k of the disc as well as by its extremities in consequence
of the hollowing formed in the disc for the play of the pushers, as has been already
explained.
The upper part of the carriage is hollowed to receive the bobbin carrying cage,
which is maintained in this hollowing by means of a blade spring p bent into a
square shape (Figure 1), and bearing strongly against the projecting parts near the
hollowing in order to avoid the fall of the cage during the rotation of the disc; this
bent spring is fixed by means of a screw upon one of the cheeks of the carriage.
One of the sides q of the bobbin carrying cage (chape) (Figure 3 is provided with
hinges in order to facilitate the placing of the bobbin; this movable side carries a
square turn-over (retour d'equerre), in which is arranged a hole, within which hooks
a little point r forming a part of the other side 8 of the cage equally square turned-
over (en retour d'equerre) in order to maintain the whole rigid. The opening can
only take place when pressure is exerted upon one of the sides of the cap, so as to
bend the sides, which thus brings about the lowering of the point in consequence
of its elasticity, the sides then returns to its normal position.
The bobbin is fixed at the part of the cage which is nearest to the carringe; at
the other extremity is a spiral spring forming a brake upon the bobbin and bearing
upon the spring itself. The force of this spring is calculated for compensation of
tension, so that whether the bobbin be full or nearly empty the thread always
unreels under the same resistance.
The Command of the Pushers Transporting the Bobbins, Sheet 2, Figures 1, 2,
and 4. The metallic rods c, c¹, inside the pins having been displaced, as has been
explained, by pressure upon one of the tail pieces for f¹ have need to be brought
back to their state of repose to be drawn in the opposite direction. This effect is
readily produced by the aid of open spiral springs mounted upon guides t, t, which
also serve to connect the half-rounded rods and the tail pieces; these guides are
themselves directed in their movement by the piece u, pierced with three corres-
ponding holes; the piece u has in addition the effect of serving as a support to the
fixed extremity of the spiral springs. The blades g carrying spurs are held vertical
by the pieces which form a slide, as seen at Figure 2, showing one of these pieces
in plan. A little abutment w projecting over the top of the band or blades maintains
them at their proper height.
Levers placed upon the pieces v and commanded by the drawers of the jacquard
mechanism act upon the thickness of the blades and communicates to the latter the
necessary displacement. Upon the same levers are fixed cheeks y which maintain
in convenient contact the blades and the levers, and besides bring back the blades
to their point of departure by the rencounter of these cheeks with the pins z. The
levers are in fact recalled to their first position after the action of the jacquard by
a counterweight or a spring.
The arrangement shown at Figure 1bis may be also employed, or the spur blades
may be united to the drawers of the jacquard mechanism by stays, coupled or not,
and jointed in a similar manner to the movable stays, which will be presently
described, with the needles serving for the gathering of the interlacements.
The spur blades ought to be at least two in number per vertical series of pins, in
order to effect the displacement of the bobbins, either from the right to left, or from
the left to the right, or from the upper to the lower, or from the lower to the upper
of each disc; but for the case when it is desired to divide the same vertical range of
pins into distinct series it is necessary to have as many times two blades as there
are series. In Figure 2 the piece is supposed to have to serve three series.

page_text: Instead of acting by pushing the half-round rods enclosed in the hollow pins
may be drawn to the rear to effect the displacement of the bobbins; in this case
the pushing agent of the bobbins would be of appropriate form, and at the other
end of the pin instead of the tail piece there would be a button or similar arrange-
ment impelled by a hook or fork.
Command of the Pins, Sheet II., Figures 5, 6, and 7, 8, and 9, 10, and 11.-I have
preserved in order to produce the rotation of the pins the gearings (embragages)
described in the preceding Patents, but in order to effect the turning of each pin
indifferently in either direction I employ upon the same pin a second gearing the
reverse of the first.
It is a matter of course that when one of the movements is produced the pieces
intended to effect the contrary movement are separated one from the other, in
order to prevent their catching. This gearing is effected by means of a fork taking
into a groove in the movable part of the gearing and forming part of a bent lever
connected to the jacquard, so that by the elevation of the hook there is a dis-
connection, or any other method producing the same effect may be employed.
Instead of gearing sleeves which when in repose have their teeth in gear I have
effected an arrangement whereby the teeth come into gear only when the jacquard
is in action.
Figure 5 shows the arrangement; a is the part of the gearing fixed upon the pin
and turning with it; the motive part 6 forms a nut upon the screw c, as will be
presently explained.
The first effect of the drawing of the jacquard is to approach the teeth and to
make the piece b turn which follows the thread of the screw. This screw has four
threads; the part d is fixed upon the pin like the piece a; the part f belongs to g,
which is an epaulment sheath or case keyed in the crown of the machine.
It is upon the case f¹ that the nut b makes its motion, and the latter carries four
gudgeons diametrically opposite to one another, which engage into the screw,
fulfilling the functions of an interrupted nut thread. The pin having made a quarter
turn, drawing with it in its movement the part of the screw c, the part f remaining
still, the two parts of the screws will be in identical positions; that is to say, threads
in continuation of one another. This could not take place with but one screw
thread, which at the end of an entire revolution, as with a screw with two threads,
could require a semi-revolution.
The motion nut can have a recoil or return movement which need not be
absolutely limited to the length of the screw thread to be traversed in order to
facilitate the resliding of the machine by a certain uninjurious loss of time. The
gudgeons at the end of the course of the nut penetrate into the circular neck h,
which permits them a movement of at least a quarter turn without action from the
pin, and the action upon the pin recommences as soon as the gudgeons are arrived
at the point for re-entering the screw thread invited to do so, as they always are by
a spiral spring i forcing the pieces into contact.
For the rotation of the pin in the contrary direction a system similar to that
which has just been described is applied universally to each pin. Many other
means of commanding the pins may be employed. Thus, instead of gearings of
different forms, pinions fixed upon the pins may be employed, actuated by racks of
various forms, of which some examples will be presently described (see Figures 6
and 7); one condition to be satisfied by these arrangements is that the racks and
the pinions should be in a state of repose and in their return to the point of
departure held ungeared by a recoil of the racks, and that the teeth of the latter
should be interrupted at places, in order to permit each pinion to turn in any
direction without meeting the inactive teeth of the rack, which would form an
obstacle. This arrangement renders it necessary to divide a vertical range of pins
into several series, because the distance between the successive horizontal ranges
would not allow room for the toothed and non-toothed parts of a same rack. This
mechanical necessity also agrees with the exigences of the manufacture, which

page_text: equally obliges in certain cases, as has been explained, the subdivision of the vertical
ranges of the pins into several groups or series.
Each rack commanded by the jacquard for its ascending movement causes the
pinions with which they are in relation to turn, but arrived at the point of stoppage
it requires a means of recoil in order to ungear, so that the action of the jacquard
having ceased the rack may yield to the mere force of a spring acting in the same
direction. For this purpose (Figures 6 and 7) each rack carries laterally from top
to bottom two little gudgeons j, j, which engage into the grooved cheeks k, k. In
repose the gudgeons occupy the positions ; the elevation of the rack draws the
gudgeons along the race m, m, and a semi-revolution leads them to o, in consequence
of the inclined planes of the slide between which they travel. The action of the
jacquard ceasing, the fall of the gudeons is effected by the race o, p, which produces
the necessary separation of the racks for the ungearing. In the case of a quarter
turn the gudgeons are only raised to the height r; a slight spring 8 urges them
constantly to penetrate through the opening r, and from thence to fall again into
the race p, to lead them back to their original position l.
Another means consists in doubling the number of racks, and in preserving one
half of them for the quarter turns and the other half for the half turns. It will be
understood that this result can be obtained either by causing the two racks to act
successively, one to produce the first quarter turn of the pin and the other to
produce the second, and either making a complete half turn by one and a quarter
turn by the other.
In these systems of racks I have supposed a toothed gearing, but a simplification
consists in employing ratchet teeth (see Figures 8 and 9), bringing about the return
of the rack by the teeth simply acting upon it, and the number of teeth is limited
to four for the four possible positions of the pin. The movement in the contrary
direction is very simply produced by a ratchet placed inversely, and as in the
preceding instance the rack of the form appropriated to the section of the teeth
may be interrupted.
Instead of straight gearing teeth I may have helicoidal teeth, which will facilitate
the fall of the rack by simply sliding upon the breadth of the gearing with an
inclination which can be of 45 degrees. In this case the rack will be displaced
parellelly to the pin, and not by separating from it. Instead of a rack galle chains
drawing each ratchet can be employed (see Figures 10 and 11) upon a convenient
part of the circumference, and acting through the intermediation of their spindles
upon the ratchet teeth. These galle chains are then united to two parallel rods t, t,
placed at each side of the pins, as shown in Figure 10.
Another simplification also answering the same purpose is to employ instead of
two ratchets per pin for the two contrary movements a single cylinder driver
(lanterne), Sheet 1, Figures 6 and 7, which would attach, according to the necessity
of the work, one or the other of the racks diametrically opposite.
The same cylinder driver (lanterne) can serve by means of the neck z to receive
the spring caps intended to fix the horizonticallity or the verticallity of the disc
grooves.
In the means which have been already described only quarter and half turns
have been mentioned, in order not to uselessly complicate the description, but it
will be at once perceived that the same means are applicable to three-fourths of a
turn, and even beyond that.
It should also be remarked that it is possible in certain cases, the movement being
given by one of the above-mentioned means or otherwise for one pin of a series to
communicate its movement to the other pins of the same series by any mode of
transmission, metal straps, or otherwise.
Comb. The collection and the transport of the interlacements are always effected
by means of a comb, of which each tooth is independent of all the others. I do
not limit myself to one needle for two pins, but have acknowledged the utility in a
number of cases of having as many needles as there are vertical rows of pins; and

page_text: in everything I have endeavoured to simplify as much as possible the mechanism
of the machine. Thus, as is shown at Figure 12, Sheet 2, instead of numerous
movable couplings or links between them I have but two a, a³, coupled and jointed to
the point b, and united by a similar articulation to that of the abutment c, as well
as to the cross piece d parallel with this abutment. To the abutment c which glides
in a slide, as shown in the preceding Patent, are fixed four uprights f, f, coupled in
pairs so to contain in their intervals the needle carrier d, and to guide it laterally.
This needle carrier is held horizontally in its double movement of rising and falling
by pieces g, g, also coupled upon its faces, and sliding between couplings f, f¹.
Upon the foundation plate of the comb, and in a convenient place, are fixed two
square pieces h, h¹, for each needle carriage. Each of these serves as a support to a
paul piece (mentonnet) intended to fix the extreme positions, as will be presently
explained, these paul pieces being themselves held in a position of repose by little
blade springs i, i¹.
Figure 12 represents the four positions of the needle at the four angles of the
rectangular Figure, which it describes in its movement. The dotted lines x, x¹,
belong to the needle arrived at the work, and throughout its height, and at the
moment when it is disengaged from the lace without being removed from it, the
lines y, y¹, show the two symmetrical positions for the collection, that is to say, the
one at the moment when the needle is about to penetrate into the threads behind
the interlacement, the other when it is engaged in them, and has no more to do
than to push them before it.
I preserve intentionally the name of needles for the blades d, which replace the
needles of hand work with the object of pushing the interlacements; and as I avoid
the entire turning of these blades by the threads, I have given them a more rigid
form without however preventing a return to the means which have been previously
employed.
The links a, a, are vertical, and in prolongation of one another when the pin is
at its greatest height, whilst they form an angle when the needle is lowered. These
extreme positions are obtained by opposite Drawings of the chains or cords applied
to the point of articulation b. The needle being lifted, if the traction takes place
by the drawer, the links take the angular position, and a pin / fixed upon the
piece g exerts pressure upon the paul piece m, and makes it release a pin o fixed in
the abutment c, the carriage finding itself thus abandoned effects its motion to the
rear. At the end of this course the same pin o engages into the paul piece n.
Then if traction is exerted by the drawers k the links a, a', resume their vertical
position, and lift the needle carrier d. When this lifting is complete the pin p
fixed upon the links a' has relifted the paul piece n, which disengages the pin ō,
and consequently the passage of the carriage can take place in the opposite direction
to the first.
Let me say here that it is possible to replace the drawers ; and k by a single rigid
rod acting in the two directions.
Instead of two links a single and longer one will serve acting by pushing upon
the carrier d, which will be urged to descend by a spring; or this long link may be
bound to the needle carrier d by a pin sliding in a longitudinal slit, so that the
ascent or descent of the carrier d will be occasioned by the obliquity or the verti-
cality more or less pronounced of the link.
Instead of the uprights f, f, there might be in the same position two open spiral
springs contained or not in the tubes or simply guided by an axis, and these springs
may be repelled by the lowering of a pin, and exert their effort on its remounting.
Closed springs would act in the same manner, but in a contrary direction. For all
these means the extreme positions of the needles would be maintained by similar
gearing (enclanchements) to those described, and appropriated to each particular
case.
In order to give the necessary rigidity to the needles the organs of elevation of
lowering and of transport are situated between two parallel plates, and the upper
plate T presents radical slits in which the needles slide. The needles should be

page_text: carried sufficiently behind the angle formed by the threads in order to find a passage
of sufficient breadth to assure their ascending movement. This amount of play
(aller chercher) is of great importance, and yet the course of the carriage of the
needles may be exagerated in a machine of large dimensions in consequence of the
length of the thread developed. In this case it might become useful to adapt
behind the comb, and in an intermediate position between this comb and the two
discs, rods jointed at one of their ends, and capable of taking vertical and horizontal
positions. These rods in the horizontal position form the same fan as the threads,
and find themselves below, rising into the vertical position they penetrate across
the threads, and carry towards the comb a greater opening of these threads.
Drawers connected with the jacquard command these supplementary organs by
means of levers and cranks. The lace is drawn in proportion to its production
by superposed rollers 7, 71, upon which a suitable pressure is exerted; one of these
rollers drives the other either in consequence of friction one with another or by
means of gearing at their axles. The movement of these rollers is imparted by the
jacquard acting upon a lever applied to a ratchet; this ratchet is mounted upon the
driving axis or upon another axis, in order to permit an intermediate gearing.
The movements of all the organs of the machine are also obtained by the inter-
mediation of jacquard mechanism conveniently arranged.
I have been led to modify certain parts of the jacquard, in order to realize with
the same hooks a mechanism with different amplitudes of movement.
Movements of the Jacquard. In this machine the organs moved by the jacquard
in order to satisfy the requirements of certain designs must receive movement of a
greater or less amplitude. If a bobbin, for example, placed upon a pin of any
horizontal range has to pass upon the corresponding pin of the upper or lower
range the pin which leaves the bobbin, as well as that upon which it passes, must
be arranged so as to permit the vertical movement of the bobbin, that is to say, to
have their groove vertical. If the bobbin once passed from one horizontal range
into another has to work with bobbins of the same horizontal range the pins instead
of permitting the vertical movement must be disposed for the horizontal move-
ment. It is necessary then that the grooves pass from the vertical position into
the horizontal position and reciprocally; in both cases the action of the jacquard
must cause the pins to make a quarter turn.
To produce a half turn it is necessary that the action of the jacquard should be
double the first, and this I effect by the following means (see Sheet 2, Figure 13):-
In order to obtain this result, and only considering two effects to produce, I make
use of a hook A with a double notch, as shown in Figure 13. If by means which
I proceed to indicate the hook A inclines to the left enough for the crook or twizzle
(mouton porte griffe) rising to the blade c to lift the hood D it will be drawn with
it up to the end of the course, but if instead of rising at D the blade had been
lifted at D¹ the hook lifted sooner will mount higher, although the crook or twizzle
(mouton) had the same course, and the difference of the course of the hook would
be necessarily the distance D, D¹.
The inclination of the hooks is obtained by a needle E terminated by two
branches F and F¹ of unequal length, the difference of which corresponds to the
points of attack of the hooks.
The needle is also, as in the ordinary jacquard, repelled by the card and brought
back by a spring G; the cylinder carries two holes in relation with two branches of
the needle. That done, if the hole corresponding to the branch F is filled by the
card the needle repelled to the right draws the notch to the right, and the claw can
rise without the blade lifting the hook. But if this card is pierced by the branch F¹
and rest penetrated by the branch F the needle would be pushed to the left by the
spring up to the end of the branch F and meet the card, determining thus the
position of the notch D above the blade C, whence there results the drawing of the
hook.
Lastly. If the two holes are pierced the branch F can be introduced itself in
the cylinder and draw to the left the hook of a larger quantity, and consequently

page_text: the latter will be found lifted at D¹. The hook therefore has three clearly distinct
positions-First. Beyond the reach of the blade when there is no hole in the card
to penetrate; secondly, when held at D, when the branch F¹ alone enters in the
cylinder; thirdly, when held at D¹, when the two branches enter into the cylinder.
The number of the branches and notches can be multiplied.
The same object can be attained by different means derived from the same
principle (see Sheet 2, Figure 14. Let there be a hook A with two opposite
notches B and B₁; the hooks can occupy three positions:-1st, taken at the
right; 2ndly, taken at the left; 3rdly, in an intermediate position, that is to
say, taken at the other side. The hook is pushed to the left by the spring acting
upon a needle c which enters the cylinder, but it is necessary at the same time that
the needle c¹ may enter there as well, if not the resistance of one would neutralize
the effect of the other. The transport of the hook to the right in order that the
notch B may be taken with the blade D is produced in an entirely contrary
manner. In fact it is no longer the needle c which acts, but the needle c¹, and the
latter acts by counteracting the effect of the spring when the card is not other-
wise penetrated. The card not being penetrated also opposite the needle c the
needle c¹ has not to overcome more than the resistance of the spring E, that is to
say, that the two holes pierced for c and c¹ being closed each of the needles repels
its spring.
In the case when the hook should incline neither to the right nor to the left
the needle c is allowed to penetrate into the cylinder, and c is repelled. The
buckle of the pricker has been calculated so that it has to traverse in this recoil
movement a distance equal to the half of its course before repelling the needle
towards the right; the two needles act in this case in opposite directions, and
maintain tlie needle vertical.
The two means above described give separately the same result, combined
together they permit the multiplication of the number of effects. This system of
jacquard also possesses the advantage of not requiring the needles with double
branches to be of a sufficient size to not turn the needles.
Transmission Chains.-In order to transmit the movements of the hooks of the
jacquard to the movable organs of the machine I formerly made use of cords, but
these cords had the disadvantage of changing in length under the influence of damp
or other variations of temperature, so I have therefore endeavoured to replace them
by metallic chains, which would be absolutely non-elastic. But among the kinds
of chains already in use there is none which is non-clastic; and at the same time,
what is not less indispensable to the purpose I require, perfectly flexible and capable
of adaptation to all the sinuosities which cords would take. It is this defect which
I have endeavoured to overconie by forming chains with double joints.
My system resembles the Galle system (as shown at Figure 5, Sheet 2), in that
the links are connected by gudgeons, but it differs from that system in the form
of the links, and particularly in the alternate direction of the gudgeons of articu-
lation, which for each link form at the axis (font en treux) a right angle.
Resumé. I desire by the present Patent to secure the exclusive right to the
improvements above described with reference to the annexed Drawings which I
have effected in the machine of the Malhère system for the manufacture of lace
identical with that made by hand, and I especially claim as the essential features of
these improvements,-
1stly. In the general arrangement of the machine the tangence of the discs, as
well in the vertical as in the horizontal direction, in order to facilitate the carriage
of the bobbins in all directions from one disc to another of the same range, or from
any one range to another.
2ndly. With regard to the discs and the pins the command of the pushers
which displace the bobbins by means of a mechanism which acts either by push or
by drawing by means of rigid rods lodged partly in the tube of the pin and partly
in the disc, and actuated at the rear of the pin.
3rdly. In the construction of the bobbins the arrangement of the carriage with

page_text: rounded tail of the same form as the groove of the disc, as well as the spring
forming a brake to avoid the sliding of the bobbin during the movement of
rotation.
4thly. For the command of the discs the various arrangements shown in the
Drawing, and particularly the racks with ratchet teeth acting upon a cylinder
driver (lanterne).
5thly. For the comb the mechanism transforming the effect of two opposite
tractions into one quadrangular displacement of pins or needles fixing the interlace-
ments of the lace.
6thly. With regard to the jacquard mechanism the two arrangements above
described for causing the hooks to produce displacements of different amplitudes
with relation to the rotations of one-quarter, one-half, three-quarters, and so on, of a
turn to be imparted to the discs.
7thly. The employment of a double-jointed metallic chain as a non-elastic or
non-stretchable connection to command the movements of the organs of the machine
by the hooks of the jacquard.
8thly. The products obtained by the means above described, which consists of
real lace, the meshes of which are sometimes formed by plats (tresses); sometimes
by a greater or less number of threads twisted or interlaced together, so that there
is a complete identity between the products of this machine and those of the hand,
and an evident difference between these products and those of the tulle machines
making single or figured nets called imitation lace.
I may modify in the details of execution the above described arrangements, par-
ticularly with regard to their forms, materials, and dimensions, as in the manu-
facture of all kinds of spindle lace.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said Edouard Simon in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 21st April
1877.
EDOUARD SIMON, of the Firm La Compagnie Dentelliere de France, of Paris,
France. "IMPROVEMENTS IN AND ADDITIONS TO MACHINES FOR THE MANUFACTURE
OF LACE, ESPECIALLY APPLICABLE TO THE SYSTEM KNOWN AS 'MALHERE'S."" A coin-
munication from the Compagnie Dentelliere de France, a Society residing at Paris,
in the Republic of France.
This Invention relates to improvements in the machines or frames for manufacturing
mechanically a lace identical to real hand lace comprised in the Letters Patent
dated the 20th March 1872, No. 852, granted to Mr. Eugène Malhère.
In the Invention protected by the above Letters Patent, which have been assigned
to the "Compagnie Dentelliere" de France, the principle of the machine or system
and the chief organs of the mechanism have been so sufficiently described that it is
now only necessary to specify the modifications and improvements in which the present
Invention consists. These modifications and improvements leave intact the principle
of the system, and relate to the general arrangement of the machine, the construction
of its principal organs, the nature of the driving mechanism, and lastly to the
arrangements of secondary importance, such as the transmission bands and the
jacquard apparatus, the action of which has had to be accommodated to the require-
ments of the new machine.
In order to render the explanations of the various arrangements clear Drawings
are annexed.
Sheet 1 illustrates the whole of the improved machine; Sheet 2 its different parts
in detached views.
1
Description of the General Arrangement, Sheet 1, Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5.-
Figure 1 is a vertical section of the machine made following the axis of one of the

page_text: spindles; and Figure 2 is a plan of the same, both Figures being drawn upon a scale
representing 1/10th of the actual size.
Figure 3 represents upon an exaggerated scale a fragment of one of the specimens
of net lace which can be produced by this machine.
Figure 5 shows by way of example a fragment of another specimen of net.
Figure 4 is a diagram showing the positions of a series of discs corresponding to
the various phases of the formation of such a mesh of net as is shown at. Figure 3.
I have not thought it necessary to show a diagram of the other net which is
derived from the first.
As in the primitive system the twistings and crossings of the threads which
concur in the formation of the real lace are effected by the peculiar action of little
bobbins mounted upon carriages which are put in rotation by discs upon which
they can be carried from one disc to the other. These discs carried on spindles
are arranged at the circumference of a circle, and the spindles follow the direction
of radii.
The threads forming prolongations of the spindles converge towards the centre,
where by means of pins the interlacements which form the lace are fixed.
The whole machine seen from above assumes thus in some sort the appearance of
a fun. The frame of the machine is composed of a table X in the form of a sector
resting upon feet Y, Y, and maintaining two concentric rings Z, Z, serving as
supports to the spindles, which radiate towards the centre, where they find the
pins.
The drawers" which command the respective movements of the discs, the
bobbins, and the pins are united with a jacquard mechanism installed above the
frame. The bands of lace which proceed from the comb formed by the whole of
the pins, which are independent one from the other, pass between the call rollers,
from the other side of which they are rolled upon a cylinder or fall freely into a
receiver.
It is not essential that the frame should be of a circular form, and the discs may
be arranged in a right line upon a rectangular frame, unless it is necessary to bring
the threads into convergence upon a given point.
As in the original system the discs are tangents or nearly so in the same horizontal
series, but the tangence of the discs is also in a vertical direction. The object of this
tangence in the vertical and in the horizontal direction is to permit the circulation
of the bobbins from some one point of the machine to another. In other terms any
one bobbin can be removed successively from spindle to spindle upon all the discs of
the machine in a general and unlimited manner. To satisfy this condition it is
evident that the diametral grooves in which the bobbins move must be able to
take the direction of the movement to be imparted to these bobbins, that is to say,
that the grooves must present themselves in prolongation of one another, either in
the horizontal direction or in the vertical direction, and that consequently the discs
must turn at will a quarter or a half turn, or even three-quarters of a turn, in order
to economize in certain particular cases the time of a "motion," and to bring the
groove into either a horizontal or vertical position in any direction of rotation by a
single action of the jacquard.
The ranging, the distribution, and the twisting of the threads once effected, the
maintenance of the interlacement is obtained by means of points or blades consti-
tuting pins with automatic displacement, either in the same manner as is described
in the Specification of the preceding Patent, or as will be subsequently described, or
in any other manner.
Formation of the Mesh, Sheet 1, Figures 3 and 4.-In order to better understand
the object which it is proposed to accomplish I have shown upon an exaggerated
scale and by way of example the interlacings of a net of lace (Figure 3) without,
it should be well understood, limiting myself to the form of net shown in preference
to any other, the machine being able to produce all kinds of lace without distinction
which previously to its Invention were only made by the hand spindle, among others
the Valenciennes shown at Figure 5. In Figure 4 the various positions occupied

page_text: by the bobbins of thread 1, 2, 3, upon the discs 1, 2, 3, 4, of the same horizontal
series are shown during all the phases of the work of interlacing. Thus, firstly,
position No. 1, the threads are upon the discs 1, 3, 5, 7 -
After a half turn
upon these discs in the direction of right to left (position 2) the thread 3 is twisted
with the thread 2, the thread 5 with the thread 4, and the interlacings a, a, Figure 3,
are obtained. A part of the carriages are then slid in the direction of the diameters of
the points of contact situated upon a horizontal plane, so as to bring the threads 2
and 5 upon the disc 4, and the threads 6 and 9 upon the disc 8
e, %, e,
- £ £ £ ·
· I, I, I,
-----
(position 3).
the thread 2 is twisted
In now effecting the half turn of the discs 4, 8, 12, --
with the thread 5, the thread 6 with the thread 9 (position 4), which give the inter-
lacings b, b, of the Figure 3. The manner in which the interlacings c, c,
d, d, d,
h, h, h, -- of the
net are effected will be clearly understood by merely looking at the other positions.
The positions of the pins are represented in Figure 3 by the signs ☺☺ At the
head of the diagram the direction of rotation of the spindles for the required
interlacing is indicated by arrows, but for other needs the directions of movement
can be changed.
From what precedes it is seen that the interlacements are the result of successive
movements of rotation of the discs and the transport of the bobbins. For the net
given as an example in Figure 3 it is necessary to produce 13 changes for an entire
range of meshes, with intervention of two placings of pins at the least, or of a
greater number if it be thought necessary to push each interlacement separately.
Spindles, Sheet 2, Figures 1, 2, 3, and 4-Figures 1 and 2 are two sections, the
one vertical and the other horizontal, of a spindle provided with its discs, with a
bobbin and with organs serving to produce the displacement of this bobbin from one
spindle to a neighbouring one. The rotation of these discs is obtained, as has been
explained above, by the intermediation of spindles upon which the discs are
mounted, each spindle turning indifferently from right to left or from left to right.
The tube which, constitutes the spindle encloses the new organs for the displace-
ment of the bobbins. This spindle is composed, first, of a tube a; secondly, of a
disc b fixed to one of the extremities of the tube by the aid of a screw or otherwise;
thirdly, of two half rounded rods c, c¹, capable of sliding longitudinally in the tube,
and terminated at one end by a jointed piece d, d', serving to determine the lateral
displacement of the bobbins, and at the other by a tail pice or key f, f, capable of
receiving the action of a blade g carrying a spur or snug.
In the part of the disc situated beyond that occupied by the tube a diametral
slot is formed, within which move the pushers d, d', each of which jointed at the
point to the corresponding half rounded rod can take the extreme positions
indicated by the two dotted lines at Figure 2.
If the rod c were pushed in the direction of the arrow by means of the tail piece or
key, of which mention was made above, the pushing piece d, exerting pressure upon
the pin i, which is fixed, would slide in the slot j, and when it has reached the end of
the groove or slot the pusher would take a position symmetrical to that which is
indicated by the dotted lines for the piece . It can be concived that if the fixed
pin in question were moveable with the pushing piece, upon which it is secured, it
would command the movement of the pusher by following a groove formed in one
of the inner faces of the diametral slot of the discs. In this movement of the pusher
a bobbin placed upon the disc b would in sliding in the groove / be shifted upon the
neighbouring disc.
In order to permit this shifting of the bobbin from one disc to another the
separating partitions of the inner ring Z are formed with the same groove as the
dises themselves.
Advantage is taken of the quasi tangence of the discs to cause the bobbins to clear
the space existing between these dises, not across the separating partitions of the
ring, but outside the ring. The discs in this case project a distance at least equal
to the depth of the groove of circulation of the bobbin carriages.
Bobbin. The carriage of the bobbin has its tail of a form corresponding to the

page_text: groove, and in order that the displacement may not take place except when intended
it is desirable to adapt a break upon the tail of the carriage. This break is capable
of very varied forms and arrangement; it may consist of plates (lamettes) fixed
either upon the tail itself or upon the cheeks the disc grooves, but I will indicate
a means which appears to possess very great advantages. In the axis of the carriage
(Figures 1 and 2) a hole is formed not piercing through all the breadth of the
piece, and at the orifice of this hole is arranged a transverse groove m at a right
angle to the direction of the groove of the disc. A little piece of T form is lodged
in the hole and in the groove, leaving in the hole a sufficient space for a little open
helicoidal spring to find room there; this spring guided by the branch n of the
T piece is then placed as in a case. If the branch o of the T piece cannot be
completely lodged in the groove m of the tail without repelling the spring the
branch will form a break in the bottom of the slide k of the disc by its extremities
in consequence of the hollowing formed in the disc for the play of the pushers, as
has been already explained.
The upper part of the carriage is hollowed to receive the bobbin carrying cage,
which is maintained in this hollowing by means of a blade spring p bent into a
square shape (Figure 1), and bearing strongly against the projecting parts near the
hollowing; in order to avoid the fall of the cage during the rotation of the disc the
bent spring is fixed by means of a screw upon one of the cheeks of the carriage.
One of the sides q of the bobbin carrying cage (Figure 3) is provided with hinges
in order to facilitate the placing of the bobbin; this moveable side carries a rectan-
gular piece, in which is arranged a hole within which hooks a little point r, forming
a part of the other sides of the cage, also in a rectangular piece, in order to maintain
the whole rigid. The opening can only take place when pressure is exerted upon
one of the sides of the cage, so as to bend the side s, which thus brings about the
lowering of the point r. The side s returns to its normal position by reason of its
elasticity.
The bobbin is fixed at the part of the cage which is nearest to the carriage; at
the other extremity is a spiral spring forming a break upon the bobbin, and bearing
upon the thread itself. The force of this spring is calculated so that for compen-
sation of tension, whether the bobbin is full or nearly empty, the thread always
unreels under the same resistance. The tension of the spring can be easily regu-
lated when the axis upon which the spring is mounted is an internally grooved or
fluted tube, which is keyed upon an axis also fluted, see Figure 10, Sheet 1; for
by this means when the tube is displaced a certain number of grooves, the spring is
more or less tightened. One of the series of grooves can, if preferred, be replaced by
a simple snug or projection.
The Command of the Pushers Transporting the Bobbins, Sheet 2, Figures 1, 2,
and 4. The metallic rods c, c¹, inside the spindles having been displaced, as has
been explained, by pressure upon one of the tail pieces for f¹, have need to be
drawn in the opposite direction in order to be brought back to their state of repose.
This effect is readily produced by the aid of open helical springs mounted upon
guides t, t, which also serve to consolidate the half rounded rods and the tail pieces.
The guides are themselves directed in their movement by the piece u, pierced with
two corresponding holes; the piece u has in addition the effect of serving as a sup-
port to the fixed extremity of the helical springs. The blades g, carrying spurs or
snugs, are held vertical by the pieces v, which form a slide, as seen at Figure 2,
showing one of these pieces in plan; a little abutment w projecting over the top of
the band or blades maintains them at their proper height.
Levers placed upon the pieces v, and commanded by the "drawers" of the
jacquard mechanism, act upon the thickness of the blades, and communicate to the
latter the necessary displacement. Upon the same levers are fixed checks
y or other
levers, which maintain in convenient contact the blades and the levers, and besides
bring back the blades to their point of departure by the meeting of those cheeks
with the pins z. The levers x are in fact recalled to their first position after the
action of the jacquard by a counterweight or a spring.

page_text: The arrangement shown at Figure 1bis may be also employed where the spur
blades are united to the "drawers" of the jacquard mechanism by stays, coupled or
not, and jointed in a similar manner to the moveable stays, which will be presently
described, with the pins serving for the gathering of the interlacements.
The spur blades ought to be at least two in number per vertical series of spindles
in order to effect the displacement of the bobbins either from the right to left, or
from the left to the right, or from the upper to the lower, or from the lower to the
upper of each disc. But for the case when it is desired to divide the same vertical
range of spindles into distinct series, it is necessary to have as many times two
blades as there are series. In Figure 2 the piece is supposed to have to serve
three series.
Instead of acting by pushing the half round rods enclosed in the hollow spindles
may be drawn to the rear to effect the displacement of the bobbins. In this case
the pushing agent of the bobbins would be of appropriate form, and at the other end
of the spindle instead of the tail pieces or stops there would be a button or similar
arrangement impelled by a hook or fork.
Command of the Spindles, Sheet 2, Figures 5 and 6, 8 and 9, 10 and 11, and
Sheet 1, Figures 6, 7, 8, and 9.-I have preserved in order to produce the rotation
of the spindles the engaging and disengaging mechanism (embrayages) described in the
preceding Patent, but in order to effect the turning of each spindle indifferently in
either direction I employ upon the same spindle a second gearing, the reverse of
the first.
It is a matter of course that when one of the movements is to be produced, the
pieces intended to effect the contrary movement are separated one from the other in
order to prevent their catching. This gearing is effected by means of a fork taking
into a groove in the movable part of the clutch mechanism, and forming part of
a bent lever connected to the jacquard, so that by the elevation of the hook there is
a disconnection; or any other method producing the same effect may be employed.
The arrangements to which we recur are in addition represented in Sheet 1,
Figures 6 and 7. a, a, a, are the parts of the clutch mechanism forming part of
the spindle; a¹, a¹, are the movable parts of the clutch mechanism; the collars c, c,
enclose the clutch mechanism of two horizontal ranges of spindles; b, b, are the bent
levers effecting the disengaging when they are acted upon by the "drawers" d, d',
each of which bifurcates at the points e, e¹. One of the branches for f' acts upon
the chains, producing the rotation of the spindles, while the other branch g or g¹ acts
upon the disengaging levers.
The object of the bifurcation or branching off at the points e, e¹, is to diminish by
one-half the number of "drawers" of the jacquard, but as the effects to be produced
on the clutch teeth, on the one part to determine the rotation of the spindles, and
on the other to obtain the disengaging, are not of the same extent, it is necessary to
compensate for the difference by means of springs h, h¹.
Figure 6 represents the "drawers" d drawn out by the jacquard, the branch g
having disengaged the teeth intended for the inverse rotation, and the branch f pro-
ducing the rotation of the upper range of spindles. This rotation of the first range
is then communicated to the second by the chain j, and so on from range to range.
Instead of gearing sleeves, which when in repose have their teeth in gear, I
have effected an arrangement whereby the teeth come into gear only when the
jacquard is in action.
Figure 5 shows the arrangement. a is the part of the gearing fixed upon the
spindle, and turning with it; the motive part b forms a nut upon the screw c, as
will be presently explained. The first effect of the drawing of the jacquard is to
approach the teeth and to make the piece turn, which follows the thread of the
screw this screw has four threads; the part c is fixed upon the spindle like the
piece a; the part ƒ belongs to g, which is a shoulder sheath or case keyed in the
crown Z of the machine.
It is upon the case f that the nut 6 makes its motion, and the latter carries four
gudgeons diametrically opposite to one another, which engage into the screw,

page_text: fulfilling the functions of an interrupted worm. The spindle having made a quarter
turn drawing with it in its movement the part c of the screw, the part fremaining
still, the two parts of the screw will be in identical positions, that is to say, threads
in continuation of one another; this could take place with one screw thread only at
the end of an entire revolution, as a screw with two threads would require a semi-
revolution.
The motion nut b can have a recoil or return movement, which need not be
absolutely limited to the length of the screw thread to be trimmed in order to
facilitate the regulating of the machine; by an uninjurious loss of time the
gudgeons at the end of the course of the nut penetrate into the circular neck h,
which permits them a movement of less than a quarter turn without action upon
the spindle, and the action upon the spindle recommences as soon as the gudgeons
are arrived at the point for re-entering the screw thread, invited to do so, as they
always are, by a spiral spring i, forcing the piece into contact.
For the rotation of the spindles in the contrary direction a system similar to that
which has just been described is applied inversely to each spindle. Many other
means of commanding the spindles may be employed. Thus, instead of gearings of
different forms, pinions fixed upon the spindles may be employed, actuated by racks
of various forms, of which some examples will be presently described (see Figures 6
and 7, Sheet 2). One condition to be fulfilled by these arrangements is that the
racks and the pinions should be in a state of repose, and in their return to the
point of departure held ungeared by a recoil of the racks, and that the teeth of the
latter should be interrupted at places in order to permit each pinion to turn in
direction without meeting the inactive teeth of the racks which would form an
obstacle to it. This arrangement renders it necessary to divide a vertical range of
spindles into several series, because the distance between two successive horizontal
ranges would not allow room for the toothed and non-toothed parts of the same
rack. This mechanical necessity also agrees with the exigences of the manufacture
which equally obliges in certain cases, as has been explained, the subdivision of the
vertical ranges of the spindles into several groups or series.
any
The organs peculiar to each spindle being rather voluminous would be liable to
injury from each other if their arrangement did not permit of their being sufficiently
distant, one from another, as shown in Figure 7, Sheet 2. As to the demands of
the design to be produced which may necessitate equally the grouping of the
spindles in series, if several horizontal ranges of spindles inust contribute to the
formation of a single band of lace (one of these ranges coming only to the help of
the others), it is necessary that the movements of these different ranges be inde-
pendent to mutually complete themselves. This result would not be obtained if all
the successive ranges must necessarily and simultaneously perform identical move-
ments.
Each rack commanded by the jacquard for its ascending movement causes the
pinions with which it is in relation to turn; but arrived at the point of stoppage it
requires a means of recoil in order to ungear, so that the action of the jacquard
having ceased, the rack may yield either to the action of gravity or to that of a spring
acting in the same direction. For this purpose (Figures 6 and 7) each rack carries
laterally at top and bottom two little gudgeons, j, j, which engage into the grooved
cheeks k, k. In repose the gudgeons occupy the positions ; the elevation of the
rack draws the gudgeons along the path m, n, and a semi-revolution leads them to o
in consequence of the inclined flanges of the slide between which they travel. The
action of the jacquard ceasing, the fall of the gudgeons is effected through the
path o, p, which produces the necessary separation of the racks for ungearging. In
the case of a quarter turn the gudgeons are only raised to the height r, a slight
spring s urges them constantly to penetrate through the opening r, and from
thence to fall again into the path p, to lead them back to their original position l.
The force of the spring s is calculated in such a manner, that when the gudgeon j,
carried by the rack, is drawn by the jacquard mechanism to accomplish the entire
course, l, n, corresponding to a half revolution of the spindle, this gudgeon j passes

page_text: freely before the opening without engaging in it; but when the raising of the
gudgeon is limited to half its course, the tension of the spring s is sufficient for the
falling of the rod to take place following the path p, l.
Another means consists in doubling the number of racks and in reserving one-
half of them for the quarter turn, and the other half for the half turn. It will be 5
understood that this result can be obtained either by causing the two racks to act
successively, one to produce the first quarter turn of the spindle, and the other to
produce the second, or by making a complete half turn by one, and a quarter turn
by the other.
In these systems of racks I have supposed a toothed gearing, but a simplification 1
consists in employing ratchet teeth (see Figures 8 and 9) bringing about the return.
of the rack by simply sliding upon the back of the teeth, and the number of teeth
is limited to four for the four possible positions of the spindles. The movement in
the contrary direction is very simply produced by a ratchet placed inversely, and as
in the preceeding instance the rack of the form appropriate to the cut or shape of 1
the teeth may be interrupted.
Instead of straight gearing teeth I may have helicoidal teeth which will facilitate
the fall of the racks by simply sliding upon the breadth of the gearing with an
inclination which can be of 45 degrees. In this case the rack will be displaced
parallely to the spindle and not by separating from it. Instead of a rack, galle 2
chains surrounding each ratchet (see Figures 10 and 11) upon a convenient part of
the circumference and acting through intermediation of their cross bars upon the
ratchet teeth may be employed; these galle chains are then united to two parallel
rods, t, t, placed at each side of the spindles, as shown in Figure 10.
Another simplification also answering the same purpose is to employ, instead of two 2
ratchets per spindle for the contrary movements, a single cylinder driver (lanterne)
(Sheet 2, Figures 10bis and 11bis) which would attack, according to the necessity of
the work, one or the other of the racks diametrically opposite.
The same cylinder driver (lanterne) can serve by means of the neck z to receive
the spring caps C, C, intended to fix the horizontality or the verticality of the disc 3
grooves.
The combination of different means above described furnishes the following
further arrangement :-Instead of chains fastened to the drawers and forming a sort
of rack, the ordinary rack gearing with pinions cut upon the clutch mechanism as
seen in Figures 8 and 9, Sheet 1, may be employed. In this case the disengaging 3
is obtained by the pins b, b¹, fixed upon the racks c, c', and sliding upon the inclined
planes d, d¹.
Figure 8 represents the rack c¹ in a state of repose and consequently the clutches
not in gear, for they have been drawn away in the lateral movement of transport of
the rack yielding to the inclined plane d¹. The rack c having already been drawn 4
by the jacquard the hilical spring i has pushed back this rack till it has come into
contact with the pins at the summit of the inclined plane; the result is a gearing of
the clutches and rotation of the spindle by means of the fixed coupling box a.
In the means which have been already described only quarter and half turns
have been mentioned in order not to uselessly complicate the description, but it will 4
be at once perceived that the same means are applicable to three-fourths of a turn
and even beyond that.
It should also be remarked that it is possible in certain cases, the movement
being given by one of the above-mentioned means or otherwise, for one spindle of a
series to communicate its movement to the other spindles of the same series by any
mode of transmission, endless chains, metal straps, or otherwise.
Comb. Sheet 2, Figure 12.-The collection and the transport of the interlacements
are always effected by means of a comb, each pin of which is independent from all
the others. I do not limit myself to one pin for two spindles, but have re-
cognised the utility in a number of cases of having as many pins as there are
vertical ranges of spindles, and in everything I have endeavoured to simplify
as much as possible this organ of the machine. Thus as is shown at Figure 12,

page_text: Sheet 2, instead of numerous movable couplings or links between them I have
but two, a, a¹, coupled and jointed to the point b and united by a similar joint
to the sliding bottom c as well as to the cross piece d parallel with this sliding
bottom. To the sliding bottom c which slides in a groove are fixed four uprights f, fi,
coupled in pairs so as to contain in their spaces the pin carrier d and to guide
it laterally. This pin carrier is held horizontally in its double movement of
rising and falling by pieces g, g¹, also coupled upon its faces and sliding between
couplings f, f.
Upon the foundation plate of the comb and in a convenient place are fixed
two square pieces h, h¹, for each pin carriage; each of these serves as a support to
a catch (mentonnet) intended to fix the extreme positions as will be presently
explained, these catches being themselves held in a position of repose by little blade
springs i, i.
Figure 12 represents the four positions of the pin at the four angles of the
rectangular figure which it describes in its movement. The dotted lines x, x¹, belong
to the pin arrived at the work and throughout its height and at the moment when
it is disengaged from the lace without being diverted from it; the lines y, y', show
the two symmetrical positions for the collection, that is to say, the one at the
moment when the pin is about to penetrate into the threads behind the inter-
lacements, the other when it is engaged in them and has no more to do than to push
them before it.
I preserve intentionally the name of pins for the blades & which replace the pins
of hand work with the object of pushing the interlacements, and as I can avoid the
entire turning of these blades by the threads I have given them a more rigid form
without however preventing a return to the means which have been previously em-
ployed or a combination of the different means.
The links a, a, are vertical and in prolongation of one another when the pin is at
its greatest height, while they form an angle when the pin is lowered. These
extreme positions are obtained by opposite drawings of the chains or cords applied
to the points of articulation b. The pin being lifted, if the traction takes place by
the drawer j the links take the angular position, and a pin fixed upon the piece g
exerts pressure upon the catch m and makes it release a pin o fixed in the sliding
bottom c, the carriage finding itself thus abandoned can effect its motion to the rear.
At the end of this course the samne pin o engages into the catch n. Then if traction
is exerted by the drawer k the links a, a', resume their vertical position and lift the
pin carrier d. When this lifting is complete the pin p fixed upon the link a¹ has
relifted the catch n which disengages the pin o and consequently the sliding of the
carriage can take place in the opposite direction to the first.
Let me say here that it is possible to replace the drawers j and k by a single rigid
rod acting in the two directions.
Instead of two links a single and longer one will serve acting by pushing upon
the carrier d, which will be urged to descend by any kind of spring, or further, this
long link might be fastened to the carrier d by a pin sliding in a longitudinal slit
so that the ascent or descent of the carrier d will be occasioned by the obliquity or
the verticality more or less pronounced of the link.
Instead of the uprights f, f, there might be in the same position two open helical
springs contained or not in tubes or simply guided by an axis, and these springs
may be repelled by the lowering of the pin and would give back for the re-
mount of the pin the force stored up during its descent. Closed springs would
act in the same manner but in an inverse direction. For all these means the
extreme positions of the pins would be maintained by similar gearings (enclanche-
ments) to those described and appropriated to each particular case.
In order to give the necessary rigidity to the pins the organs of elevation, of
lowering, and of transport are situated between two parallel plates, and the upper
plate T presents radial slits in which the pins slide. The pins should be carried
sufficiently behind the summit of the angle formed by the threads in order to
find a passage of sufficient breadth to assure the collection of the interlacements
R

page_text: during their ascending movement. This amount of play to be obtained is of
great importance, and yet the course of the carriage of the pins may be ex-
aggerated in a machine of large dimensions in consequence of the length of the
thread developed. In this case it might become useful to adopt behind the
comb and in an intermediate position between this comb and the discs rods
jointed at one of their ends and capable of taking vertical and horizontal
positions. These rods in the horizontal position form the same fan as the threads
and find themselves below; on rising into the vertical position they penetrate
across the threads and carry towards the comb a greater opening of these threads.
'Drawers" connected with the jacquard command these supplementary organs
by means of levers, cranks, pulleys, or other appliances. The lace is drawn off in
proportion to its production by superposed rollers 7, 1, upon which a suitable
pressure is exerted; one of these rollers drives the other, either in consequence
of friction one with another or by means of gearing at their axles. The move-
ment of these rollers is imparted by the jacquard acting upon a lever applied
to a ratchet. This ratchet is mounted upon the driving axis or upon another axis
in order to permit an intermediate gearing.
"
The movements of all the organs of the machine are also obtained by the inter-
mediation of jacquard mechanism conveniently arranged.
I have been led to modify certain parts of the jacquard in order to realise with
the same hooks of one mechanism different amplitudes of movement.
Movements of the Jacquard.-In this machine the organs moved by the jacquard
in order to satisfy the requirements of certain designs must receive movements of a
greater or less amplitude. If a bobbin for example placed upon a spindle of any
horizontal range has to pass upon the corresponding spindle of the upper or
lower range, the spindle which the bobbin leaves as well as that upon which it
passes must be arranged so as to permit the vertical movement of the bobbin,
that is to say to have their groove vertical. If the bobbin once passed from
one horizontal range into another has to work with the bobbins of the same hori-
zontal range the spindles instead of permitting the vertical movement must be
disposed for the horizontal movement. It is necessary then that the grooves pass
from the vertical position into the horizontal position and reciprocally; in both cases
the action of the jacquard must cause the spindles to make a quarter turn.
To produce a half turn it is necessary that the action of the jacquard should be
double the first, and this I effect by the following means (sec Sheet 2, Figure 13):-
In order to obtain this result and only considering two effects to produce, I make
use of a hook A with a double notch, as shown in Figure 13.
If by means which I proceed to indicate the hook A inclines sufficiently to the
left, so that the lifting bar in raising the blade c lifts the hook at the position D, it
will be drawn with it up to the end of the course, but if instead of rising at D the
blade be raised at D₁, the hook lifted sooner will mount higher, although the lifting
bar had the same course, and the difference of the course of the hook would be
necessarily the distance D, D¹.
The inclination of the hooks is obtained by a needle E terminated by two
branches F and F¹ of unequal length, the difference of which corresponds to the
points of attack of the hooks.
The needle is also as in the ordinary jacquard repelled by the card and brought
back by a spring G, the cylinder carries two holes in relation with the two branches
of the needle; then if the hole corresponding to the branch F¹ is filled by the card,
the needle repelled to the right draws the hook to the right, and the lifting bar can
rise without the blade lifting the hook; but if this card pieced for the branch F¹
and not penetrated for the branch F, the needle will be pushed to the left by the
spring until the end of the branch F meets the card, determining thus the position
of the notch D above the blade C, whence there results the drawing of the
hook.
Lastly, if the two holes are pierced the branch F can be introduced itself in the
cylinder, and draw to the left the hook of a larger quantity, and consequently the

page_text: latter will be found lifted at D¹. The hook therefore has three clearly distinct
positions; first, beyond the reach of the blade when there is no hole pierced in the
card; secondly, held at D when the branch F¹ alone enters in the cylinder; thirdly,
held at D when the two branches enter into the cylinder. The number of branches
and notches can be multiplied.
The same object can be attained by a different means derived from the same
principle (see Sheet 2, Figures 14 and 14bis). Let there be a hook A with two
opposite notches B and B¹; the hooks can occupy three positions; first, taken at
the right; secondly, taken at the left; thirdly, in an intermediate position, that is
to say, not at either side. The hook is pushed to the left by the spring acting
upon a needle C which enters the cylinder, but it is necessary at the same time
that the needle C₁ may enter there as well, if not the resistance of one would
neutralize the effect of the other. The transport of the hook to the right in order
that the notch B may be taken with the blade D is produced in an entirely contrary
manner; in fact it is no longer the needle C which acts, but the needle c¹ and the
latter acts by counteracting the effect of the spring when the card is not penetrated.
The card not being penetrated opposite the needle C, the needle c¹ has not to over-
come besides the resistance of the spring E¹ that of the spring E, that is to say, that
the two holes for C and C¹ being closed, each of the needles repels its spring.
In the case when the book should incline neither to the right nor to the left, the
needle C is allowed to penetrate into the cylinder and C is repelled; the eye c of
the needle C, see Figure 14 bis) has been calculated so that the needle has to
traverse in this recoil movement a distance equal to the half of its course before
repelling the hook towards the right, the two needles act in this case in opposite
directions and maintain the hook vertical.
The two means above described give separately the same result; combined
together they permit the multiplication of the effects. This system of jacquard
also possesses the advantage of not requiring the hooks with double branches, these
hooks being of a sufficient size not to turn in the eyes of the needles.
Transmission Chains.-In order to transmit the movements of the hooks of the
jacquard to the movable organs of the machine, I formerly made use of cords, but
these cords had the disadvantage of changing in length under the influence of damp
or other variations of temperature, so I have therefore endeavoured to replace them
by metallic chains which would be absolutely non-elastic; but among the kinds of
chains already in use there is none which is non-elastic, and at the same time what
is not less indispensable to the purpose, perfectly flexible and capable of adaptation
to all the sinuosities which cords would take. It is this defect which I have
endeavoured to overcome by forming chains with double joints.
My system resembles the galle system (as shown at Figure 5, Sheet 2) in that
the links are connected by axles or pins, but it differs from that system in the form
of the links, and particularly in the alternate direction of the axles or pins of
articulation, which for each link form together a right angle.
Resumé. I desire for the present Patent to secure the exclusive right to the
improvements above described with reference to the annexed Drawings, which I
have effected in the machine of the Malhère system for the manufacture of lace
identical with that made by hand, and I especially claim as the essential features of
these improvements.
First. In the general arrangement of the machine the tangence of the discs as
well in the vertical as in the horizontal direction, in order to facilitate the carriage
of the bobbins in all directions from one disc to another of the same range, or from
any one range to another.
Secondly. With regard to the discs and the spindles the command of the pushers
which displace the bobbins by means of a mechanism which acts either by pushing
or by drawing by means of rigid rods lodged partly in the tube of the spindle, and
partly in the disc, and actuated at the rear of the said spindle.
Thirdly. In the construction of the bobbins, the arrangement of the carriage with

page_text: dovetail of the same form as the groove of the disc, as well as the spring forming. a
brake to avoid the sliding of the bobbin during the movement of rotation.
Fourthly. For the command of the discs the various arrangements shown in the
Drawing.
Fifthly. For the comb, the mechanism transforming the effect of two opposite
tractions into one quadrangular displacement of pins fixing the interlacements of
the lace.
Sixthly. With regard to the jacquard mechanism, the two arrangements above
described for causing the hooks to produce displacements of different amplitudes
with relation to the rotation of one-quarter, one-half, three-quarters, and so on, of a
turn to be imparted to the discs.
Seventhly. The employment of a double jointed metallic chain as a non-clastic or
non-stretchable connection to command the movements of the organs of the machine
by the hooks of the jacquard.
Eightly. The general combination and arrangement of parts above described, and
substantially as shown in the annexed Drawings, constituting a new method of
producing lace.
In witness whereof, I, the said Edouard Simon, have hereunto set my hand
and seal, this Sixth day of April, One thousand eight hundred and seventy-
seven
Witness,
CH. ARMENGAUD,
Civil Engineer,
No. 23, Bd. de Strasbourg,
à Paris.
EDOUARD SIMON. (L.S.)