IMPROVEMENTS IN THE TREATMENT OR FINISHING OF TEXTILE; FABRICS AND MATERIALS
Year: 1852

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JAMES
AIKMAN, of Paisley, in the County of Renfrew, North Britain, Calenderer,
send greeting.
WHEREAS, Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Royal Letters Patent under the Great Seal of the United Kingdom of
Great Britain and Ireland, bearing date at Westminster, the Twentieth
day of January, in the fifteenth year of. Her reign, did, for Herself, Her
heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the said James Aikman,
Her especial licence, full power, sole privilege and authority, that I, the
said James Aikman, my exors, adñiors, and assigns, and such others as
I, the said James Aikman, my exors, admiors, or assigns, should at any
time agree, with, and no others, from time to time and at all times during
the term, of years therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use,
exercise, and, vend, within England, Wales, and the Town of Berwick-
upon-Tweed, my: Invention of ." IMPROVEMENTS IN THE TREATMENT OR
FINISHING OF TEXTILE; FABRICS AND MATERIALS;" in which said Letters
Patent is contained a proviso requiring that.I, the said James Aikman, by
an instrument in writing, under my hand and seal, shall particularly describe
and ascertain the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same
is to be performed, and shall cause the same: to be enrolled in Her said
Majesty's High Court of Chancery within six calendar months next and
immediately after the date of the said in part recited Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso,. I, the said
James Aikman, do hereby declare the nature of. my Invention, and in what

page_text: manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by this present Instrument in writing as follows, reference being had to
the Drawings hereunto attached, and to the letters and figures marked thereon,
that is to say:-
My said Invention relates,―
First, to various arrangements of machinery, apparatus, or means to be used
for twisting or finishing the ornamental fringes of shawls and other fabrics where
twisted fringes or other similar ornaments are used, the object of such con-
trivances being the obtainment of increased economy, regularity, and neatness
in the process, as compared with the ordinary system of manual twisting.
Second, to an improved mechanical arrangement for breadthening or
stretching piece goods in the direction of their width, such arrangement being
suitable for stretching fabrics as they are passed through fringe twisting
machinery, or for operating upon other fabrics, either plain or ornamental, in
the ordinary process of finishing.
And in order that my said Invention may be properly, understood, I shall
.now proceed to describe the several Figures on the Sheets of Drawings here-
unto attached. Fig. 1, on Sheet 1 of my Drawings, is a complete side elevation
of one arrangement of my machinery for twisting and finishing the fringes
of shawls and other fabrics wherein fringes are used. Fig. 2 is a corresponding
end elevation of the same, taken at right angles to Fig. 1, looking on the end
opposite to the driving gear. Fig. 1, on Sheet 2 of my Drawings, is a plan of
the machine, and Fig. 2, on the same Sheet, is a side or longitudinal elevation
of a portion of the dividing or separating and the twisting mechanism detached,
shewing four of the twisting fingers as preparing to come into action for twisting.
Fig. 3 is a tranverse vertical section of the main framing, shewing the dividing and
twisting details at right angles to Fig. 2, and Fig. 4 is a side view of the platform
traverse action detached. The rectangular framing of the machine consists of
the two end standards A connected together by the four upper and lower longi-
.tudinal frame pieces B, C, bolted up by end flanges. The whole of the move-
ments are derived from the long horizontal quadruple-cranked shaft D carried
in the two end bearings D', on the cross bars E, near the base of the end
standards. This sbaft receives motion from the large band pulley F, which is
loose on the overhanging end of the shaft, but cast with a boss G of large
diameter, which is bored out conically to fit a corresponding cone H, fast on
the extreme end of the shaft. This admits of the action of the belt I being
gradually and easily communicated to the shaft by the engaging lever J.
This lever is fast on one end of a short horizontal shaft K, carried in end
bearings in the two standards L on the floor; a catch stud M being bolted to

page_text: the end frame to hold the lever in any required position. The shaft K has
fast upon it a short lever N, with a double-forked eye at its upper end for
embracing the two pins of a loose ring O, fitting a ring groove formed by the
contiguous surfaces of a shoulder on the large end of the cone, and an adjustable
collar on the shaft end, as delineated in the Drawings; the machine is sup-
posed to be at rest, the lever J being drawn outwards so as to disengage the
cone surfaces, the re-engagement being at once effected by drawing back the
lever in the opposite direction, so as to start the machine without any shock.
The shaft D has formed upon it four long duplex cranks P, Q, two at each
end, the individual cranks in each pair being set diametrically opposite to each
other. The cranks P are jointed to the lower ends of the long connecting
rods R, which pass upwards to joint pins S, by which they are jointed to
the two opposite ends of a longitudinal frame T. This frame extends along
the entire length of the machine, and has end slide pieces U fitting to the
vertical guide slots V, formed in the upper end standards W, bolted to the top
of the main end standards of the framing. The other cranks Q are similarly
jointed to the lower ends of the short connecting rods X passing upwards to
the joint pins Y fast in brackets Z, bolted to the two extreme ends of the
lower longitudinal frame-piece a, corresponding to the upper one T. This
frame piece is also formed with end slide pieces to work in vertical gnide slots
in the separate standards b, which are bolted at their upper ends to transverse
beams c, and at their lower ends to corresponding beams d. The beams c pass
across the machine, and are bolted by their ends at e to the upper horizontal
flanges of the upper fixed frame pieces B, whilst the lower beams d are simi-
larly connected at f to the flanges of the lower frame pieces C, the latter of
which also answer as supports for the pedestals g, as intermediate bearings
inside or between the two sets of cranks for the main shaft. Each of the
moveable frames T, A, is fitted with a row of vertical twisting fingers / set at
regular intervals asunder, those on the upper frame T hanging downwards,
whilst the opposite ones on the lower frame a project upwards. Each finger
or twister consists of a flat slip of steel slightly tapering from root or shoulder
to point. They are each attached to their carrying frame by a short piece
of angle iron i, one flange of which is rivited to the root of the finger
at j, whilst the other is bolted to the frame. The twisting side is per-
fectly vertical, and this surface is covered by a band of leather or other
suitable frictional material in a double layer K, which is held in its
place by passing its centre portion round or over a bar or cross piece near the
top of the needle l, such cross piece being formed by cutting two holes side by
side in the needle, and close together. The leather being passed through these

page_text: two holes, its bend is held by the cross piece between the holes, and the two
ends are then brought down in contact, one beneath the other, and passed
over the butt end of the shoulder, being finally attached to a bolt m, entered
The
into the frame piece, and held by the stiff friction of a nut on one side.
square head of this bolt admits of its being turned as may be required to wind
up the leather and tighten it like a violin string. The fingers on each
traversing bar or frame piece are precisely alike, and the two rows are so set
,as regards each other that when they are traversed towards each other the
leather sides of each pair of contiguous fingers come into frictional contact
with considerable lateral pressure. This traverse is effected by the continuous
revolution of the main shaft D, the action of each pair of opposite cranks
being such as to give each neighbouring pair of fingers a sliding or rubbing
contact in each direction of motion as they come into and go out of contact.
The machine is applicable for twisting various kinds or classes of fringes,
but, as I have represented it in my own Drawings, it is more especially adapted
for such shawls or fabrics as are woven in continuous lengths, that is, several
shawls in a web, as is well understood by shawl manufacturers. For this
purpose a carrying roller n, o, is set on each side the framing beneath the
level of the twisting table, their spindles being supported in end bearings in
the brackets p, screwed to the framing. Each roller is fitted with a winch
handle to allow of the fabric being wound off one on to the other as the
operation goes on, the fabric being stretched between the two, as indicated by
the dotted line ". The twisting table or platform is carried upon the three
transverse beams s bolted to the vertical flanges of the main side frame
pieces B on one side of the line of twisters. It consists of a long piece of
timber arranged to slide horizontally upon the beams s, between six pins u,
as guides, and upon this, as a moveable base, is a board v, adjustable by screws
and slots w, so as to be capable of shifting out laterally to suit the varying
lengths of the fringes. This upper board carries on its inner edge a rib a,
studded with a line of tenter hooks or holding pins, and immediately behind
these pius is a narrow lath or strip of wood y, hinged by one edge to the
surface of the board, so as to be capable of turning up to a vertical position.
The platform is continued on the other side of the twisters by a single board z,
arranged to slide freely on the surface of the three beams s, being connected
'to the opposite half of the platform t by screws 1, one of which is attached to
each opposite end of the timber t at 2. These screws are simply entered
through plain eyes 3, in short pedestals attached to the ends of the board 2,
the distance between the two halves being thus capable of adjustment by the
hand or lever nuts 4, passed upon the screws inside the eyes 3. The board

page_text: is also furnished with pins x, and a folding lath y, as on the opposite side.
For the division or separation of the individual threads from the line of the
fringe as they are to be twisted, each pair of twisters has a divider 5 screwed to
the side of a vertical traversing fraine 6 passing along just beneath the level
of the fabric, and supported by the two end vertical rods 7 sliding in collar
guides 8, and resting by their flat bottom and plates 9 on the peripheries of the
.adjustable cams 10 fast on the main shaft. Each of these dividers consists of
a slip of sheet brass with two small slits 11 cut in its upper pointed edge; one
of these slits is a short straight one, whilst the other is longer and terminates
with a curve in an accurate vertical line beneath the shorter slit. Each row
or line of fringe is adjusted for twisting, by hooking or entering the solid edges
of the fabric upon the inclined pins in the rib x, when the entire fringe, or so
much of it as is operated upon at once in the machine, is stretched across
between the two rows of pins by adjusting the two halves of the platform as I
have already described. And to assist the even hooking, the hinged laths y
are turned up on edge so as to elevate the lines of fringe above the level of
the pins until the threads are evenly spread out, when the laths are turned
down to allow the threads to be hooked. The revolution of the main shaft
then carries round the two cams 10 so as to elevate the entire row of dividers,
each of which thus comes in contact with the under side of the fringe, a
certain number of threads being thus caused to enter each slit, whilst those
on each side, which are not to be interfered with, are pushed away clear of
the slits by the angular action of the pointed divider. This action then
elevates two separate bundles of threads, two or more in each, above their
original level, the lower bundle being in a direct vertical line beneath the
upper one.
Whilst the cams hold the threads in this position, the revolution
of the cranks P, Q, causes the two rows of twisting fingers to approach
each other to give the separated bundles their first twist.
of twisters n, one in the upper and the other in the lower frame, work-
ing in concert with each other, thus nips its corresponding bundles of the
fringe between the two leather surfaces, and as one finger descends whilst the
other correspondingly ascends, the bundles are separately twisted in one direc-
tion by rolling between the two frictional surfaces, just as is accomplished
in the ordinary manner by hand twisting. The onward revolution of the
cams 10 permits the row of dividers to fall down to clear them from the
fringe just about the time that this first twist, by the engaging of the
fingers, is terminated. At the same time the reverse or disengaging action
of the twisters commences as the cranks P, Q, begin to return to the
Each pair

page_text: position delineated in my. Drawings.
The disengagement of the dividers
from the fringes permits each set of bundles to come together when they
unite and twist round each other, and the return action of the twisters
assists this, giving the combined bundles a back twist to complete the process.
This action completes a single twist of fringe for each pair of fingers, but as
some space must obviously be left between each pair of fingers, the whole of
the lines or threads of fringe between each pair of fingers are left unacted
upon. The threads so left are completed in regular succession by causing
the platform t, z, to traverse a short distance longitudinally after each
revolution of the main shaft completing a twisting movement.
The enlarged
detail, Fig. 4 on Sheet 2, represents a side elevation of the detent or dis-
engaging apparatus for the traverse of the platform; a short cross bar 12 is
bulted to the framing at one end of the machine to carry the small guide
standard 18 for the vertical traversing bar 14, which passes through a guide
eye 15 at the top of the standard, and through another guide 16 on the bar 12.
The sliding bar is thus guided vertically, and has a constant tendency to retain
the position shewn in the Drawing, from the pressure of the blade spring 17,
bolted at one end to the fixed framing and acting at the other against the foot
of the bar, keeping the pin 18, which is fast in the bar, hard up against the
under side of the guide 16. At 19 is a projecting arm formed upon the bar 14,
with an angular eye at 20 as a guide for the outer end of a spindle, having
upon it a helical spring 21, abutting between the eye 20 and a shoulder at the
opposite end.
This end is flattened out and passed through a transverse slot in
the bar 14, and it terminates in a lateral angular projection 22, with an
inclined lower edge, and cut away a little below the level of the upper side of
the flattened portion. Just beneath this flattened end is a similar projec-
tion 23, standing out from the bar 14, and having an inclined upper edge, the
horizontal distance between these two projections in the position given in the
Drawing being made to correspond with the pitch of the pins 24 in the
horizontal bar 25. This bar is bolted at one end 26 to the end of the board t
of the twisting platform, its free end being passed through a hole in the end
standard as a guide. It is studded with a line of short horizontal pins or
teeth set at such a distance asunder as corresponds with the extent of inter-
mittent traverse required for the fringe at each twisting action. The apparatus
is actuated by an adjustable set screw 27, fast in the projecting end of a bracket
bolted to the upper frame piece T of the twisting fingers. At each descent of this
frame the screw head 27 presses on the top of the bar 14, and bears it down
against the pressure of its blade spring until the pin of the bar 25, which happens

page_text: to be in action at the time, clears the projection 23. At the same time the
projection 22 enters the space between the two pins, which for the time being
are beneath it, and the bar 25 then traverses forward horizontally by the
pressure arising from the traction of the weight 28, which is suspended by a
cord passed over a guide pulley 29, and attached at 30 to the twisting
platform. As the projection 22 enters in front of the pin 31, the latter is thus
pressed forward against the projection, so as to overcome the pressure of the
spring 21, and bear up the projection against the recess in its containing bar.
By this means the platform with the fringe under treatment is traversed
forward to the required extent, and on the subsequent elevation of the screw 27,
the bar 14 returns to the position shewn in the Drawings, and the projection
22 is again pressed back by its spring until stopped by the pin 32 coming
against the bar. At the same time the projection 23, as it rises with its bar,
enters the space which the other projection has just quitted, and holds the
platform steady, in readiness for another movement. The total amount of
traverse required for finishing a fringe extending along the whole series of
fingers is equal to the distance between each pair of fingers, that is, from a
to 6 in Fig. 1, which distance may be arranged to be greater or less, as is
found convenient. When a fringe or a given length thereof has been
completed, the platform is drawn back again to its starting point, in readiness
for a new fringe, by depressing the bar 14 by hand until the pin 33, fast in it,
comes down upon the guide 16, when both projections will be clear of the
range of pins 24, and the attendant can then draw back the platform, when
the bar 14 is allowed to rise to its working position. The length of fabric
containing the twisted fringe is then wound upon the roller o, and a new
fringe is brought forward by unwinding from the corresponding roller n.
Fringes of all kinds may be thus twisted in this machine, whether formed in
the length or body of the goods, or on the external edges, the adjustment on
the platform being in all cases the same.
I
It will also be obvious to the practical man that the details of my machinery
may be variously modified for the production of the same practical results as
I have herein-before described; as, for example, the twisting fingers may be
worked horizontally, or at any required angle with the vertical line, and they
may be actuated by cams or other differential movements instead of cranks.
The second head of my Invention relates to a mechanical arrangement for
stretching piece goods in the direction of their width, so as to breadthen or
keep up the piece to its full intended width. Fig. 5, on Sheet 2 of my
Drawings, is an external elevation of one form of this breadthener, as detached
from its bearings and collateral machinery, and Fig. 6 is a corresponding

page_text: longitudinal section of the same. It consists of a long tubular shaft A, of
considerable diameter, and of the same bore throughout. The open ends of
this shaft are filled up by cap pieces, screwed on and forming end bearings for
a long right and left threaded screw B, C, fitted with collars to prevent longi-
tudinal motion, and having squares on its projecting ends for turning by a key
or handle, to set the breadthener to suit any width of piece. The screw has
also a central bearing in the shaft at D, to give further steadiness. The shaft is
truly turned, to answer as an axle to carry the metal bosses E, which are bored
out to fit the shaft. This bore is not at right angles with the diametrical plane
of the boss, but is more or less oblique thereto and to the axial line of the
shaft, as well as to the line of transverse section of the turned periphery of the
boss. The periphery is truly turned, with a collar on each edge, and upon it
is fitted the wheel or disc F, studded over its periphery with a line of projecting
pins G.
When in use the shaft A remains stationary, and in a horizontal
position, and the bosses E are also stationary upon it, having only liberty to
traverse longitudinally, when urged in either direction, by the action of the
screw B, C. They are each connected with the screw, one to the right and
the other to the left threaded portion, by the projection H, to which is attached
a transverse piece carrying a nut. These pieces are passed through the
longitudinal slots I, the nuts being entered upon their respective threads.
When a piece of good is to be stretched or breadthened by this apparatus, the
screw B, C, is turned to expand or contract the guage or distance between the
two wheels F, and the fabric is then entered by its two selvages upon the pins
or holding points in the wheels. In its passage the fabric is so guided, by
rollers or otherwise, that its selvages shall first come in contact with or obtain
a hold upon the wheel pins, at those portions of the peripheries of the discs
which for the time being are nearest to each other. In other words, the line
of engagement of the fabric across the piece is supposed to be at a, b. The
revolution of the wheels upon their bosses, caused by the traverse of the fabric,
then carries each selvage gradually outwards as it approaches the line of
greatest width c, d, between the two peripheries. After passing over so much
of the peripheries of the wheels as may be necessary to give the required
breadthing action, the fabric is guided off the pins by a roller or otherwise,
and the operation is completed.
It will be obvious to the practical man that this breadthener may either be
combined with my fringe twisting machine for breadthening the shawls or
other fabrics upon which the twisting apparatus is made to operate, or it may
be applied as a distinct machine for stretching moreen fabrics in the ordinary
well known process of drying and finishing.

page_text: Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of my
Invention, and the manner in which the same is or may be used or carried*
into effect, I may observe, in conclusion, that I do not confine or restrict
myself to the precise details or arrangements which I have had occasion to
describe or refer to, as many variations may be made therefrom without
deviating from the principles or main features of my Invention; but what I
consider to be novel and original, and therefore claim as the Invention secured
to me by the herein-before in part recited Letters Patent, is,-
First, the system or mode of twisting or finishing the fringes of shawls and
other fabrics as herein-before described.
Second, the general arrangement and action of the machinery or apparatus
for twisting fringes and similar ornaments as herein-before described.
Third, the employment and use of dividers or separators for dividing and
selecting the threads or bundles of threads of fringes as herein-before
described.
Fourth, the system or mode of twisting or finishing fringes, wherein the
twisting fingers act first in one direction for twisting two separate bundles or
sections of threads, and afterwards in the reverse direction to give the back
twist to the combined bundles.
Fifth, the dividing of the fringe into two separate sections for the first
twist, and the subsequent combination of the same for the second twist.
Sixth, the application and use of an escapement or intermittant traverse
action for supplying untwisted fringe to the fingers as herein-before described.
Seventh, the system or mode of working or actuating the twisting appa-
ratus, wherein the twisted fringe is carried away from the fingers at each
twisting action, whilst untwisted fringes is brought forward to the fingers by
the same movements.
Eighth, the system or niode of stretching piece goods as herein-before
described.
Ninth, the application and use of oblique stretching wheels or pin discs for
stretching piece goods as herein-before described.
Tenth, the application and use of carrying bosses or collars for the stretching
wheels, wherein the bore or the axial line of the bosses is formed obliquely in
relation to the plane of revolution of the wheels.
In witness whereof, I, the said James Aikman, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, the Seventeenth day of July, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-two.
JAMES (L.S.) AIKMAN.

page_text: AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the Seventeenth day of July, in
the year of our Lord 1852, the aforesaid James Aikman came before our
said Lady the Queen in Her Chancery, and acknowledged the Specification
aforesaid, and all and every thing therein contained and specified, in form
above written. And also the Specification aforesaid was stamped according
to the tenor of the Statute made for that purpose.
Enrolled the Twentieth day of July, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and fifty-two.