IMPROVEMENTS IN HATS, CAPS, AND BONNETS, WHICH IMPROVEMENTS ARE ALSO APPLICABLE TO OTHER ARTICLES OF WEARING APPAREL
Year: 1853

page_text: Clarkson at the Office of the Commissioners of latents,
his Petition and Declaration, on the 31st January 1853, pur-
suant to the 9th section of the Patent Law Amendment Act,
1852.
(Void by reason of notice to proceed not having been given within
the time prescribed by the Act.)
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, Í;
THOMAS CHARLES CLARKSON, of Wapping, in the County of Middle-
sex, Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of my Invention of
"IMPROVEMENTS IN HATS, CAPS, AND BONNETS, WHICH IMPROVEMENTS ARE
ALSO APPLICABLE TO OTHER ARTICLES OF WEARING APPAREL," and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be duly ascertained and
described in and by the following statement thereof, that is to say:
My Invention of improvements in the manufacture of hats, caps,
and other coverings for the head, consists of the application or use
of a vegetable material known as "baste" in the construction of the
bodies of those articles, whereby a light fabric possessed of consider-
able stiffness and elasticity is obtained. In order more particularly
and familarially to identify this vegetable material, I may mention

page_text: that it is a product of the palm tree, and is imported into this coun-
try usually as a wrapper for cigars.
"
may
be a
In order
I take this "baste" in an unmanufactured state as imported, and
cemented to a woven fabric, such as tarlatan or thin muslin, by
means of a solution of shellac and water or spirits, or it
solution of india rubber or other suitable adhesive matter.
to permanently unite these materials, I brush the "baste
over with
adhesive solution, and similarly coat, or saturate the woven fabric,
and then press them together under the influence of heat by ironing
or otherwise so as to render them smooth and uniform in substance.
The "baste" with the woven fabric so united is now cut into proper
sizes for the purpose, and built up into hat, cap, or bonnet bodies as
follows:-
I take a block or mould (such as ordinarily used by hatters) of
the shape required; this is covered over with a woven fabric of tar-
latan or thin muslin. This fabric is secured and caused to fit
closely to the figure of the block. I now coat the surface of the
prepared "baste "with a solution of india-rubber or shellac, which
has sufficient adhesive property to retain the "baste" to the figure
of the block when it is applied thereto. The "baste". is cut into
shapes suitable for the article to be manufactured, and each piece
applied separately, taking care to connect it at one point only at first.
From this point the surface of contact is gradually extended as the
work progresses, pressing the whole up smooth and in contact with
the fabric on the block. The several pieces are similarly applied, and
their edges united by the adhesive solution, so as to form the entire
body, any superfluous portions being cut off. During the application
of the "baste" to the surface of tarlatan on the block, it is subjected
to heat and pressure by ironing or otherwise, or it may be strained
and brushed on in order to get it well down and of uniform surface.
The inner woven fabric being closely fitted and held to the form
of the block, the prepared "baste" is caused to assume a like form
by its adhesion to the fabric, which it retains of itself when the
several parts are united.
The block may now be removed at pleasure, and the body is

page_text: adapted for the completion of the manufacture in the ordinary
manner. The tarlatan or other woven fabric used to attach the
"baste" to the block may be reinoved when. the block is withdrawn;
or, if suitable, it may remain as an inside lining to the hat or other
article being made.
.
1.
Instead of preparing the "baste" by uniting it with a woven
fabric before it is applied to the block, I also apply the "baste" with-
out any previous preparation, simply cutting it into pieces suitable
for the purpose. I attach the pieces of "baste" to the fabric on
the block in a manner similar to that before described with reference
to the prepared material. Having thus applied the "baste" alone,
I now attach the outer covering of tarlartan or thin muslin to the
"baste," coating or saturating the contact surfaces with the solution
of shellac or other suitable cement. This woven fabric is applied to
the figure of the block, and united throughout the entire surface of
the body, and it is similarly ironed or strained and brushed down as
before described, and so as to present a smooth uniform surface
adapted for the face of hat and other bodies. The edges of the tar-
lartan are lapped and united by the cement, any superfluous portion
being cut off. It should be observed that the application of heat in
the process of cementing depends on the adhesive matter used, the
india-rubber solutions being simply strained or brushed on. It is
advisable to so arrange the different thicknesses that the joints do
not coincide; and I may here mention, that the latter mode of apply-
ing the different substances is preferable when it is intended to
remove the inner woven fabric from the body.
..:
In applying the baste, I place it with the fibres in that direction
in which the greatest stiffness is required, as in the case of hat
bodies, I place it with the fibres vertically, which may be formed in.
two pieces; the one first united up the front, the edges being worked
round towards the side, while the other piece is first placed in
contact at the back part of the body and brought round towards
the edges of the front piece, to which it is united at the sides.
Instead of two pieces any number of smaller pieces may be united
to form the body.

page_text: This vegetable material "baste" is also applicable for hat, cap,
or bonnet tips, being suitably prepared by cementing to it one or
more thicknesses of woven fabric adapted for the purpose, as first
herein described.
I also employ "baste" in combination with other materials in the
formation of hat brims. In carrying out this part of my Invention,
I enclose an elastic webbing between two thicknesses of "baste" to
form the foundation of the brim, and secure the whole together with
a solution of shellac or other cement; this is suitably covered with
tarlatan or other fabric adapted for the purpose. Previous to
uniting the several parts, radial incisions are made in all, excepting
the webbing, which being clastic allows a slight expansion and
contraction of the brim, giving an elasticity to the brim which
renders it comfortable to the wearer. The incisions are formed on
the inner circumference of the brim, and extend to about one fifth
of its breadth. Care must be taken that the incisions in the several
thicknesses of material so cut coincide, in order to permit the
required elasticity of the webb. For this purpose I prepare the
"baste" in sheet as first herein described, from which the forms of
brim are cut, or the brim may be made of small pieces of "baste"
previously cut, so that when similarly united with the fabric they
assume the desired forın.
I also employ "baste," combined with leather or other suitable
material, as a head lining, uniting it by means of shellac in solution
or other suitable cement. The "baste " is placed between the leather
and the hat body, and is adapted to prevent the passage of grease..
Baste is also applicable as a lining for the tips and bodies of hats,
and is easily capable of ornamentation by piercing or embosing, as
taste may dictate. "Baste" being of an open texture is adapted
for ventilation by leaving portions of it uncovered by the woven
fabric.
In order to prevent grease and perspiration passing through hat
and other bodies, I cause a thickness of cork to adhere by some
suitable cement before mentioned to the inside of the body between

page_text: it and the head lining. This material has before been applied loose,
but without adhesion it has not the desired effect.
The second part of my Invention has reference to the application
of baste in an unmanufactured state as a stiffener for other articles
of wearing apparel, as in waistcoats, coats, and also in parts of
ladies dress. For this purpose the baste may be prepared by
attaching it to a woven fabric by adhesive matters as described, or
it may be applied separately, either stitched or otherwise secured to
the garment.
Having described the nature of my Invention, and the manner in
which it is to be performed, I desire it to be understood that what
I claim is,
-
First, the use or application of "baste" in an unmanufactured
state in the manufacture of hats, caps, and other coverings for the
head, and also the formation of elastic brim described.
Secondly, I claim the application of "baste" in an unmanufac-
tured state as a stiffening material for coats and waistcoats, and
also in parts of ladies dress.
And, thirdly, I claim cementing a thickness of cork to hat and
cap bodies on the inside of the body next the head lining.
In witness whereof, I, the said Thomas Charles Clarkson,
have hereunto set my hand and seal, this Thirty-first day of
January, in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred
and fifty-three.
זוdזמ
THO CHA CLARKSON (L.S.)