IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES, AND IN APPARATUS CONNECTED THEREWITH."
Year: 1861

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Newton Wilson, of 144, High Holborn,
and William Tertius Rowlett, of Leicester, in the County of Leicester,
Manufacturers, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES,
AND IN APPARATUS CONNECTED THEREWITH."
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Newton Wilson
and William Tertius Rowlett at the Office of the Commissioners of
Patents, with their Petition, on the 2nd February 1861..
We, WILLIAM NEWTON WILSON, of 144, Iligh Holborn, and WILLIAM
TERTIUS ROWLETT, of Leicester, in the County of Leicester, Manufacturers,
do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
SEWING MACHINES, AND IN APPARATUS CONNECTED THEREWITH," to be as
follows:-
This Invention relates to various improvements in sewing machines, and in
apparatus connected therewith, and consists, firstly, of a peculiar reciprocating
shuttle to be employed in a lock-stitch machine, which will contain a larger
quantity of thread than those hitherto used, whilst the tension of such thread
is rendered unvarying by the use of a spring which bears upon the thread
itself on the reel or spool. This reel or spoul is made much shorter than the
ordinary shuttle spool. and is placed with its axis transversely to the shuttle,
but its death is increased so as to hold the required amount of thread. The
[Price 8d.]

page_text: shuttle above referred to reciprocates in a semicircular race, and is driven by
a radial driver, which receives its motion from the same cam or eccentric
which actuates the vertical needle.
Another arrangement of lock-stitch machine consists in the use of a barbed
needle working from below upwards through the fabric, and seizing the thread
of a spool above the fabric draws it down through the fabric and passes it
round and over a stationary spool below.
Secondly, of certain peculiar combinations of mechanism or apparatus for
working the edges of button holes, or for ornamenting or binding the edges of
garments or fabrics.
According to one arrangement two needles and threads are employed, the
one being of a circular or semicircular form, and the other straight, but both are
actuated from the under side of the cloth plate. The thread of one needle is
looped into the thread of the other, one needle working through the fabric
near its edge, and the other outside the fabric or within the button hole, and
simply looping or locking the stitch of the other needle.
According to a second modification two slightly curved needles are used,
each caried by a separate lever arm, the one working upwards through a loop
of the upper needle thread held open by a looper and through the cloth, and
the other downwards outside the cloth, but through the loop of the under
needle, which has been opened by a slight backward movement of such needle.
The looper is made in the form of a reciprocating hook, it is tapered from its
point, and is grooved or channelled so as to allow the lower needle to pass
through the loop, a small stop or stud being provided on one or both sides of
the looper to maintain the loop in a convenient position for the passage of the
needle through it.
A third arrangement of apparatus for stitching button holes, ornamenting
the edges of fabrics, and producing the herring-bone stitch, consists in the com-
bination of the vertical needles carried by one slide or needle lever, and each
having an independent lateral motion, so as to enable them to reverse their
positions. One of these needles descends through the edge of the fabric and
button hole, and the other passes outside the fabric or within the button hole,
each taking its own separate thread down below the fabric forming two loops
underneath. A suitable looper now passes through both loops and draws them
both outside the edge of the fabric in such a position that the outer needle
only can pass through them on the next descent of the needles. After the
needles on their ascent have cleared the fabric, their relative positions are
reversed by a suitable arrangement of slides and spring, so that the two threads
are crossed and passed round or over the edge of the fabric, and on the next

page_text: descent the needle which previously passed through the fabric now passes out-
side thereof, whilst the other one passes through the fabric as before. In lieu
of the looper a shuttle or shuttles may be used for locking the loops of the
vertical needles. In producing herring-bone stitch by this machine, both
needles pass through the fabric at every descent. In combination with
the button hole machines herein-before referred to, we propose to use an
adjustable grooved guide passing up through the button hole for regulating
the position of the edge of the hole as regards the needles.
The third part of our Invention consists of a peculiar arrangement of
apparatus for effecting the operation usually known as darning, by machinery.
According to one arrangement, we propose to employ a row of barbed
needles, with a self-acter, as used in stocking frames; such needles being
carried by a slide or lever arm, and made to pass upwards through the fabric
to be darned. The thread is supplied to the needles by a carrier, and is
"divided" by sinkers, each held forward by a spring. In darning by this
machine, the needles are first passed upwards through the fabric, and the
carrier which is above the fabric passes a thread along the needles, and at the
same time actuates the sinkers. The needles now descend and cast off the
stitches by means of the self-acters, the work being drawn forward by a
suitable positive-feed motion. The work produced is similar to the ordinary
stocking fabric.
By another arrangement, we propose to darn fabrics by means of warp
threads, each needle having a guide and thread of its own.
According to a third arrangement, we use a row of eye-pointed needles
above the fabric, each being supplied with a separate thread. These needles
are so worked as to produce a shed, through which the shoot is passed by a
horizontal needle or shuttle, the effect produced being similar to hand darning.
Arovision is made in these darning machines for displacing or putting out of
action any number of needles, so as to suit the size of the hole to be darned.
Another part of this Invention consists in the production of combined
tambour and lock stitch sewing; the mechanism for producing such compound
stitch being so arranged as to afford facility for producing the tambour stitch
alone if desired. This stitch may be obtained either by passing the loop of
the tambour stitch over a stationary spool, or by throwing an ordinary shuttle
and second thread through. the same loop.
Another part of our Invention consists of a peculiar arrangement of
mechanism for producing the knot stitch and the lock stitch in one machine.
This mechanism consists of a hook or hooks revolving horizontally round a
stationary spool or thread case contained in a chamber or recess in the bed

page_text: plate of the machine. The hook or hooks are fixed to the upper end of a
short vertical driving shaft or spindle, which carries a cylindrical grooved cam
which actuates the lower arm of the vibrating needle lever. On the lower
end of the vertical shaft or spindle is fitted any suitable friction or toothed
wheel which receives its motion from a main driving friction or toothed wheel
actuated by a treadle or otherwise. A stationary stud or pin is fixed ver-
tically in one side of the recess which contains the thread case round which
stud or pin the needle thread is drawn by the hook as it revolves, and conse-
quently the strain of the thread on the needle is considerably reduced. By
suitably adjusting the position of the hook and cam, and reversing the motion
of the machine, it may be made to produce the ordinary knot stitch. The feed
cam. is also. carried. by the vertical shaft above referred to.
We also propose to adapt suitable guides to certain of the machines hercin-
before described, for the purposes of hemming, binding, and braiding. Our
improved hemmer has only half a twist, and is so constructed that the fabric
after being once folded in the hemmer forms the second fold itself, by which
means a narrower hem is obtained. The improved braiding guide is so formed
as to be casily fitted on to and carried by the ordinary presser foot of the
machine.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said William Newton Wilson and William Tertius Rowlett in the
Great Seal Patent Office on the 2nd August 1861.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, WILLIAM
NEWTON WILSON, of 144, High Holborn, and WILLIAM TERTIUS ROWLETT, of
Leicester, in the County of Leicester, Manufacturers, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Second day of February, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-one, in the twenty-fourth year of Her
reign, did, for Herselt, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto us, the
said William Newton Wilson and William Tertius Rowlett, Her special
license that we, the said William Newton Wilson and William Tertius
Rowlett, our executors, administrators. and assigns, or such others as we, the
said William Newton Wilson and William Tertius Rowlett, our executors,
administrators, or assigns, should at any time agree with. and no others,
from time to time and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed,
should and lawfully might make, use, exercise,
exercise, and vend, within

page_text: the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and
Isle of Man, an Invention for ".MPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES, AND IN
APPARATUS CONNECTED THEREWITH," upon the condition (amongst others) that
we, the said William Newton Wilson and William Tertius Rowlett, exc-
cutors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under our hands and
seals, or under the hand and seal of one of them, should particularly describe
and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same
was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent
Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the
said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that we, the said William Newton Wilson and William
Tertius Rowlett, do hereby declare the nature of our said Invention, and in
what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement, reference being had to the
accompanying Drawings and to the letters and figures marked thereon, that is
to say :-
Our said Invention relates to various improvements in sewing machines,
and in apparatus connected therewith, and consists, firstly, of a peculiar
reciprocating shuttle to be employed in a lock-stitch machine, which will
contain a larger quantity of thread than those hitherto used, whilst the tension
of such thread is obtained by the use of a spring, which bears upon the thread
itself, on the reel or spool. This reel or spool is made much shorter than the
ordinary shuttle spool, and is placed with its axis transversely to the shuttle,
but its depth is increased so as to hold the required amount of thread. The
shuttle above referred to reciprocates in a semicircular race, and is driven by
a radial driver, which receives its motion from the same cam or eccentric
which actuates the vertical needle.
Another arrangement of lock-stitch machine consists in the use of a barbed
needle working from below upwards through the fabric, and seizing the thread
of a spool above the fabric draws it down through the fabric, and passes it
round or over a stationary spool below.
Secondly, of certain peculiar combinations of mechanism or apparatus for
working the edges of button holes, or for ornamenting garments or fabrics.
According to one arrangement, two needles and threads are employed, the
one being of a. circular or semicircular form, and the other straight, but both
are actuated from the under side of the cloth plate. The thread of one
needle is looped into the thread of the other, one needle working through the
fabric near its edge, and the other outside the fabric or within the button
hole, and simply looping or locking the stitch of the other needle.

page_text: According to a second modification, two slightly curved needles are used,
each carried by a separate lever arm, the one working upwards through a
loop of the upper needle thread, held open by a looper, and through the cloth,
and the other downwards outside the cloth, but through the looper of the under
needle, which has been opened by a slight backward movement of such needle.
The looper is made in the form of a reciprocating hook; it is tapered from its
point, and is grooved or channelled so as to allow the lower needle to pass
through the loop, a small stop or stud being provided on one or both sides of
the looper to maintain the loop in a convenient position for the passage of the
needle through it.
A third arrangement of apparatus for stitching button holes, ornamenting
the edges of fabrics, and producing the herring-bone stitch consist in the
combination of two vertical needles carried by one slide or needle lever, and
each having a lateral motion, so as to enable them to reverse their positions.
One of these needles descends through the edge of the fabric or button hole,
and the other passes outside the fabric or within the button hole, each taking
its own separate thread down below the fabric, forming two loops underneath.
A suitable looper now passes through both loops, and draws them both outside
the edge of the fabric in such a position that the outer needle only can
pass through them at the next descent of the needles. After the needles on
their ascent have cleared the fabric, their relative positions are reversed by a
suitable arrangement of slides and springs, so that the two threads are crossed
and passed round or over the edge of the fabric, and on the next descent the
needle, which previously passed through the fabric, now passes outside thereof,
whilst the other one passes through the fabric. In lieu of the looper, a
shuttle or shuttles or their equivalent may be used for locking the loops of
the vertical needles, as herein-after described and illustrated in our Drawings.
In producing the herring-bone stitch by this machine, both needles pass
through the fabric at every descent. In combination with the button hole
machines herein-before referred to, we propose to use an adjustable grooved
guide passing up through the button hole for regulating the position of the
edge of the hole as regards the needles..
The third part of our Invention consist of a peculiar arrangement of
apparatus for effecting the operation usually known as darning by machinery.
According to one arrangement we propose to employ a row of barbed needles
with a self-actor, as used in stocking frames, such needles being carried by a
slide or lever-arm, and made to pass upwards through the fabric to be darned.
'The thread is supplied to the needles by a carrier, and is divided" by sinkers,
each held forward by a spring. In darning by this machine the needles are

page_text: first passed upwards through the fabric, and the carrier which is above the
fabric passes a thread along the needles, and at the same time actuates the
sinkers. The needles now descend, and cast off the previous row of stitches
by means of the self-actors, the work being drawn forward by a suitable
positive feed motion. The work produced is similar to the ordinary stocking
fabric.
By another arrangement we propose to darn fabrics by means of warp
threads, each needle having a guide and thread of its own precisely similar
to the well-known warp machines.
According to a third arrangement, we use a row of eye-pointed needles
above or below the fabric, each being supplied with a separate thread. These
needles are so worked as to produce a shed through which a shoot or filling
thread is passed by a horizontal needle or shuttle, the effect produced being
similar to hand darning. Provision is made in these darning machines for
displacing or putting out of action any number of needles, so as to suit the
size of the hole to be darned.
Another part of this Invention consist in the production of a combined
tambour and lock-stitch, shewing the mechanism for producing such compound
stitch, being so arranged as to afford facility for producing the tambour stitch
alone, if desired. This stitch may be produced either by passing the loop of
the tambour stitch over a stationary spool, or by throwing an ordinary shuttle
and second thread through the same loop.
Another part of our Invention consist of a peculiar arrangement of
mechanism for producing the knot stitch and the lock stitch in one machine.
This mechanism consist of a hook or hooks revolving horizontally round a
stationary spool or thread-case contained in a chamber or recess in the bed-
plate of the machine. The hook or hooks are fixed to the upper end of a
short vertical driving shaft or spindle, which carries a cylindrical grooved
cam, which actuates the lower arm of the vibrating needle lever. On the
lower end of the vertical shaft or spindle is fitted any suitable friction or
toothed wheel, which receives its motion from a main driving friction or
toothed wheel, actuated by a treadle or otherwise. A stationary stud or pin
is fixed vertically in one side of the recess which contains the thread-case,
round which stud or pin the needle thread is drawn by the hook as it revolves,
and consequently the strain of the thread on the needle is considerably
reduced. By suitably adjusting the position of the hook and cam, and
reversing the motion of the machine, it may be made to produced the ordinary
knot stitch. The feed cam is also carried by the vertical shaft above
referred to.

page_text: We also propose to adopt suitable guides for the purposes of hemming and
braiding. Our improved hemmer has only half a twist, and is so constructed
that the fabric, after being once folded in the hemmer, forms the second fold
itself, by which means a narrower hem is obtained. The improved braiding
guide is so formed as to be easily fitted on to and carried by the ordinary
presser foot of the machine.
And in order that our said Invention may be fully understood, we shall
now proceed more particularly to describe the same, and for that purpose
we shall refer to the several Figures on the several Sheets of Drawings
hereunto annexed, the same letters of reference indicating corresponding parts
throughout all the corresponding Figures.
Figure on Sheet 1 of our Drawings represents a side elevation of our
arrangement of shuttle or lock stitch sewing machine comprised under the
first head of our said Invention; Figure 2 is a front elevation of the same
with the upper mechanism removed; Figures 3 and 4 represent respectively
an inside elevation and horizontal longitudinal section of an improved shuttle
and reel or spool applicable to this and other sewing machines, wherein
shuttles are employed, and Figure 5 is a detail side elevation of a portion
of the mechanism detached.
a is the body of the shuttle, and b is the reel or spool of thread fitted
therein upon a stud pin secured to the body of the shuttle. This reel is
made much shorter in the direction of its axis than hitherto and is placed
with its axis transversely or at right angles to the longitudinal axis or centre
line of the shuttle. The depth or diameter of the reel is also considerably
increased, so that although shorter it will hold as much thread as the ordinary
reel. The rear end of the shuttle is rounded and enlarged considerably so
as to contain the reel, whilst it gradually diminishes in width towards the
point c, as shewn; d is a blade spring fixed at one end inside the shuttle, whilst
the other end bears upon the surface of the thread wound on the reel and
thereby imparts the requisite drag or tension thereto, so as to prevent it from
unwinding too rapidly from the reel. On leaving the reel the thread is passed
in the usual manner through two or more of a series of holes made in the
upper side of the shuttle as shewn in Figure 3.
This shuttle works to and fro in' the semicircular race A. Figures 1 and 2,
and is driven by the reciprocating driver B fast on the rocking stud C,
which carries a short arm D, actuated by the connecting rod E (Figure 5).
This reel receives its motion from the connecting rod F, which works the
needle lever G, being jointed to the rod F at H. The needle lever is fast
to the rocking shaft I, and has jointed to it the connecting rod F, which is

page_text: actuated by the eccentric K fast on the main driving shaft L; it is thus
obvious that the same eccentric drives both the shuttle and the needle.
M is the feed cam fast on the shaft L; this cam is provided with a lateral
projecting piece m and with another projecting portion m¹ on its periphery,
and works in a notch in the feed lever N. The lateral projection m imparts
the horizontal traversing motion to the feed bar whilst the pro-
jecting part m' imparts the vertical motion thereto. O is a screw for
regulating the throw of the feed bar and length of stitch, and P is a spring
for returning it to its original position after the action of the cam thercon.
The machine is driven by a strap passing over the small driving pulley Q
and over a larger pulley on a treadle shaft beneath the table or bed plate or
by any other suitablé mechanical contrivance. The under thread is supplied
from the bobbin R and passes between suitable friction discs S and through
guide eyes T on its way to the eye of the needle, as shewn clearly in Figure 1.
The operation of this machine and the stitch produced is precisely similar
to the ordinary lock stitch sewing machine and need not therefore be described
here.
Figure 1, on Sheet 2 of our Drawings, represents a side elevation of a
second arrangement of lock stitch sewing machine; Figure 2 is a back
clevation of the same with the back plate remover; Figures 3 and 4 repre-
sent respectively a front elevation and plan of the stationary spool and holders
containing the locking or filling thread, and Figures 5. 6, 7, 8, 9, and 10, are
views of the needle actuating cam, shewing its various positions in imparting
the requisite movement to the needle; Figure 11 is a side elevation of the
barbed needle employed.
A is the barbed needle fitted into the upper end of the arm B, which is
jointed at the lower end b to the vertical slide C. This slide works in a
vertical grove d in the fixed plate D, in which also is made an elliptical guiding
slot or opening e for guiding the needle arm B in its proper course; is
an antifriction bowl on the upper end of the middle arm B, which travels
along the elliptical slot e and enters the grove g in the face of the cam E,
situate immediately behind the plate D, and rotating loosely upon a stud
pin h which is fitted at one end into the plate D, and at the other end
is secured by a pin into a projecting boss F, formed on the front plate G
of the machine. The rotation of the cam E in conjunction with the stationary
guiding slot e imparts all the requisite movements to the working parts of
the machine. The cam is driven by the spur wheel I fast on the spindle
I, and gearing into a spur pinion in the centre of the cam, motion being
imparted to the spindle I by means of the winch handle K fast thereon

page_text: in front of the machine, or by any other suitable arrangement. The stationary
spool L (Figures 3 and 4) is made very thin but deep or of large diameter and
is similar to those used in lace looms, it is gripped lightly between the
spring fingers M, M, at its centre, being slightly hallowed or recessed at
that part in order to retain it more securely between the fingers, whilst
at the same time sufficient freedom is allowed for the loop of the needle
thread to pass between the fingers and the spool when drawn down and
passed round it by the barbed needle as hereinafter described; N is the
pressure foot attached to the bent arm O overhanging the top of the machine
and secured by bolts at P to the back plate thereof. This arm carries
the bobbin Qwhich supply's the upper thread, this thread being pressed
through suitable guide eyes and through a spring thread guide R attached
to the upper side of the presser foot, as shown more clearly in the detail
plan of the foot at Fig. 12. This foot is provided with a circular aperture
through which the barbed needle rises on penetrating the cloth, and in
connection with this aperture there is a narrow slit or oblong opening N,
into which the needle is pushed laterally before it descends again, so that
in its descent its barb will be closed by passing through the slit and before
it passes downwards through the cloth, and consequently the heel of the
barb will not be liable to catch therein. The cloth to be stitched is laid
upon the cloth plate S underneath the presser foot, and the end of the
filling thread (colored blue in the Drawings), is passed up through the
needle hole in the cloth plate. The machine is now ready for work, and
the sewing is effected by the rising of the barbed needle through the cloth,
when its bark seizes the upper thread (colored red in the Drawings) and
then makes a slight lateral motion so as to carry the cloth along with it,
thereby accomplishing the requisite feed of the cloth. This lateral or feeding
motion of the needle, when at its highest position, is effected by means of the
indented part e¹ of the cam E acting upon the antifriction bowl in the needle
arm B, the width of the slot at T being sufficient to allow of such lateral
play U is a spring tongue fixed in the bed plate D for guiding the bowl
of the needle arm in the proper course, shewn by the arrows in Figure 2.
This bowl when in the position 1 (Figure 5) is being carried upwards along
one side of the elliptical guide groove till it reaches the spring tongue U, by
which time it has assumed the position 2 (Figure 6); it now rises up the
straight part T of the guide slot (at which time the needle is penetrating
the cloth) until it reaches the position 3 (Figure 7) and passes over the
end of the spring tongue, which resumes its former position. The indent e¹
of the cam now forces the bowl sideways and gives the lateral motion of the

page_text: needle, after which it descends again on the other side of the tongue U to
the position 4 (Fig. 8) by which time the needle has cleared the cloth.
The onward rotation of the cam brings the bowl into the position 5 (Fig. 9)
the needle drawing down the loop of the upper thread opposite the edge
of the spool as shewn in Fig. 3. By the time the bowl has arrived at the
position 6 (Fig. 10) the loop will be half over the spool, being guided
on each side thereof by any suitable guide or looper, and as the needle now
commences to rise again for another stitch it releases the loop and by the
distending of the succeeding loop draws up or closes the first one, which
has by this time passed entirely over the spool and consequently become
locked with the spool thread, when the motions of the machine are repeated
and the sewing proceeds. It will thus be seen that the needle makes the
entire circuit of the spool after leaving the cloth, then rises through the cloth,
and finally moves laterally whilst in the cloth to propel or feed the same along.
The length of stitch depends of course upon the amount of this lateral
movement and may be regulated by the sliding plate V and adjusting
cam W. This machine, which is slight and portable, is intended when used
to be temporarily clamped on to the edge of any ordinary table after the
manner of screwed pincushions.
Figure 1, on Sheet 3 of our Drawings, represents a side elevation of a por-
tion of a machine comprised under the second head of our Invention, and
intended for the stitching of button holes and ornamenting the edges of fabrics;
Fig. 2 is a corresponding plan of the same with the cloth plate removed,
and the rest of the figures are details herein-after described and referred to.
In Fig. 1 the upper bracket or arm with the presser foot are omitted to
avoid unnecessary complication as they form no part of our present Invention.
In this machine two needles A and B are used, each supplied with a thread of
its own from the respective bobbins A' and B', carried on spindles fixed in the
bed plate C of the machine. The needle A is of a curved or semicircular
form, and is secured to one end of a horizontal spindle D, as shewn in the
detail side and end view at Figs. 3 and 4. This needle has a partial rota-
tory motion imparted to it through the pinion E fast on the opposite end of
Motion
the spindle D, and gearing into the reciprocating segmental rack F.
is imparted to the rack F by means of the eccentric G fast on the main
driving shaft H and eccentric rod I; K, K, are the fixed bearings in which
the spindle D rocks. The needle A is grooved on its outer edge to allow the
thread to lie therein, and is provided with a guide eye a at the rear end of the
curved portion, and with the ordinary needle eye near its point, the thread
from the bobbin A' passing through the guide-eye a, along the curved grooved

page_text: part of the needle, and finally through the eye thereof as shown. The second
needle B is straight, and is fitted into a slide or holder which works up and
down the tubular guide L (Fig. 5), bolted to the base plate C. It is formed.
with an eye near its point, and is supplied with thread from the bobbin B¹.
Motion is imparted to this needle by means of the cam M (Fig. 6), fast on
the main shaft, the periphery of this cam acting upon a stud N in the needle
holder, such stud working in a slot in the side of the tubular guide L; O is
a spring for bringing the needle down after it has been elevated by the cam;
P is a cam for actuating the feed bar not shewn in our Drawings, as it forms
no part of our present Invention. The machine is driven by a belt passing
over the driving pulley Q fast on the driving shaft, and actuated by a treadle
or other suitable contrivance. The operation of this machine is as follows:-
The circular needle passes downwards through the cloth near its edge, or near
the edge of the button hole, and forms a loop on the under side thereof,
through which loop passes the second needle, but in lieu of penetrating the
cloth, this second needle passes in front of the edge thereof or through the slit
of the button hole. In the meantime the first needle has withdrawn from the
cloth, which is now fed forwards, and at its next operation it passes first through
the loop of the second needle thread, and then through the cloth again, leaving
a loop to be caught by the second needle as before, and so on, the combined
movements of the two needles effecting the interlooping of the two threads,
and forms a species of braiding or ornamentation on the edge of the button
hole or cloth, which is fed forward by any suitable feed mechanism.
Figs. 7 and 8, on Sheet 3 of the Drawings, represent respectively a longi-
tudinal section and corresponding plan of a second modification of mechanism
or apparatus for working the edges of button holes, or for ornamenting the
edges of garments or fabrics. In this machine two slightly curved needles A
and A¹ are used, having eyes near their points, and each carried by a separate
lever arm B and B' respectively; C and C¹ are the two bobbins which supply
the thread to the two needles. The needle A works upwards through a loop
of the upper needle thread (colored red in the Drawing), which is held open
by any suitable looper for that purpose, and then passes through the cloth.
The needle A works downwards outside the cloth, but through the loop of the
under needle thread, colored blue in the Drawing, which has also been pre-
viously opened by a slight backward motion of such needle. The lever arm B
vibrates upon a stud centre at D, and is held down by the helical spring E,
the snail, cam, or wiper F fast on the main shaft G, serving to elevate it at
the proper times, and so force its needle upwards through the cloth. The
lever arm B is fast on the rocking shaft II, working on centres at I, I,

page_text: and has a short lever arm K secured to it. To this arin K is jointed one
end of the eccentric rod L, the other end being provided with an eccentric
strap or ring, which surrounds the eccentric M fast on the main shaft G. "The
upper needle lever thus receives a positive vibrating motion up and down from
the eccentric M; N is the cam which actuates the feed bar O. The action
of this machine, and the stitch produced is similar to the one previously
described. The respective functions of the two needles may, if desired, be
reversed, the upper needle penetrating the cloth in place of the lower one.
The object of and the mode of applying the button hole guide Q will be
described in reference to Sheet 4 of our Drawings, containing a third form of
button hole stitching machine, which we now proceed to describe.
Figure 1, on Sheet 4 of our Drawings, represents in side elevation and partial
section a portion of a Grover and Baker sewing machine, shewing the adapta-
tion thereto of another modification of our apparatus for stitching button holes,
ornamenting the edges of fabrics, and producing the herring-bone stitch;
Figure 2 is a corresponding front view of the same, and the rest of the
Figures are details. A, A', are two straight grooved needles provided with eyes
near the point similar in all respects to an ordinary sewing machine needle.
These needles are carried side by side in the single needle slide or holder B,
which is actuated in the usual manner by means of a bell-crank lever C, driven
by the cam D. Each of these needles has a lateral motion of its own, so as to
enable them to change places with each other, or reverse their respective posi-
tions with regard to each other. This is accomplished by securing each needle
to a separate lateral slide E, E', shewn in detail at Figures 3, 4, 5, and 6.
These slides are carried in a suitable guide F at the bottom of the ordinary
needle slide or holder B; they are each slightly undulated or corrugated on one
face, such corrugations fitting into each other when the slides are held face to
face in their guide by the bow spring G, as shewn more clearly in the detail
sectional plan, Figure 6. This arrangement admits of the slides E and E' being
slid over each other a certain determined distance, and also serves to hold
them comparatively fixed in their respective places after each change of posi-
tion. Each slide is provided with two 2 pins e, e, and e', e', respectively, the
pins c, e, of the slide E enter corresponding holes in the slide H, whilst the
pins e', e', of the slide E¹ enter corresponding holes in the slide H'. These
2 slides H and H' work in grooves at the back of the guide F, being
retained in position by the outer plate I; K is an oscillating lever working
on a fixed centre at k, and connected by the pins 1, 1, with the respective
slides Hand H', so that on a vibratory motion being imparted to the upper
end of this lever by means of the forked end of the sliding bar L (shewn in

page_text: detail Plan, Figure 7), it is obvious that the slides E and E' will slide over
each other, and cause the needles to exchange places at each forward or
backward stroke of the lever K; the sliding bar L is actuated by the cam M
and lever N, to which it is jointed at O inside the ordinary overhanging
bracket P, a slot being made therein for the passage of the shank of the bar.
Figure 8 represents a plan of the adjustable grooved guide Q, to be used in
the herein-before described button hole machines when stitching button holes.
This guide is carried on a plate R let into the bed plate or table of the
machine, and capable of lateral adjustment, as regards the button hole by any
simple contrivance, such as a lever or a set screw, for the purpose of regulating
the position of the cloth as regards the needle which penetrates it, thereby
causing the needle to penetrate the cloth nearer to or further from the edge of
the button hole. The button hole to be stitched is adjusted over the guide Q,
as shewn in the detail plan (Figure 9), the guide projecting slightly above the
surface of the cloth; it is turned down when the button hole is completed, so
as to admit of the cloth being readily removed by the small vibrating or
rocking wire S inside the plate R, to one end of which wire it is attached,
whilst the other end of the wire is bent down vertically, and forms a lever as
at S', for turning the wire partly, and so turning down the guide inside the
aperture in the plate R flush with the surface thereof. When in action, one
needle descends through the edge of the cloth forming one side of the button
hole, whilst the other passes down the guide Q in the slit of the button hole
(see Figure 9), such guide keeping the button hole open, and preventing the
second needle from accidentally catching the cloth. The two needles, which
are each supplied with a thread from their respective bobbins T and T¹, when
below the bed plate form two loops, through both of which the circular
needle used in this class of machines enters with a third thread before they
rise again.
The needles having risen clear of the cloth, they exchange places
or reverse their relative positions, so that the needle which previously
penetrated the cloth will now pass down the guide Q in the slit of the button
hole, and vice versa when their loops are again locked by the third thread, and
so on. It is obvious that in lieu of the well known circular needle or looper
any other convenient form of looper might be used, or a shuttle or shuttles
substituted for a looper, or a looper may be used without a third thread for
the purpose of looping the two needle threads together. U (Figure 8) is the
ordinary roughened feed bar for feeding forward the cloth as the stitching
proceeds. The peculiar lateral reversing motion of the needles A and A¹
causes the needle threads to cross each other over the edge of the cloth or of
the button hole, and produces a highly ornamental effect, whilst it also serves

page_text: to impart the crossing of the threads required to produce the herring-bone
stitch. In order to support properly that part of the cloth which is situate
between the two needies, a small projecting tongue piece V is formed in the
slot or opening in the plate R, through which the needles pass, as is clearly
shewn in Figure 8, one needle passing down one side of the tongue, and the
corresponding needle down the opposite side thereof.
By throwing out of action the lateral reversing motion of the two needles
the machine may be made to produce parallel scams or rows of ornamental
stitches, and by removing one of the needles it may be used as an ordinary
sewing machine. Or in lieu of using two parallel needles one needle only
might be employed having a lateral as well as a vertical motion, so as
alternately to pass through the fabric, and over the edge thereof. In finishing
off the button hole the guide Q is first turned down, and the feed stopped by
throwing the feed motion out of gear; the needles are then made to pass
several times through the fabric in one place.
Figure on Sheet 5 of our Drawings represents a longitudinal sectional
elevation of a darning machine comprised under the third head of our Inven-
tion; and Figure 2 is an enlarged detailed view of one of the needles employed
in this machine. A represents a row of any desired number of barbed needles
(see Figure 2), provided with self actors or barbed closers a. as used in
stocking weaving. These needles are fitted into one or more leads B. carried
by the metal slide C, which works vertically in the fixed guide D screwed to
the under side of the table or bed plate E of the machine. As the row of
needles rise, they pass through the fabric to be darned, shown at b, such
motion being imparted to them by means of the vibrating lever F, which works
on a fixed stud centre at G. and is connected at one end by means of a pin
and slot c to the needle slide C, whilst its opposite end carries an antifriction
bowl d, which works in the groove of the cam H. fast on the main shaft I. The
needles having been forced through the fabric, as shewn, a thread is passed along
them immediately under their several hooks, by means of the thread carrier K,
which receives its thread from the spool L. This carrier consists simply of a
stem or shank provided with suitable eyes through which the thread is passed.
It is secured at its upper end to the horizontal reciprocating slide M, which
works to and fro laterally in any convenient guiding groove on the head of the
overhanging fixed arm or bracket N. The requisite motion is imparted to
this slide and thread carrier by means of the horizontal vibrating lever O,
which works on a stud centre at P, and is connected at its front end by a pin
and slot to the slide M, whilst its opposite or free end carries an antifriction
bowl Q, which works in a groove made in the surface of the cylindrical can R,

page_text: also fast on the main shaft. S is a series of sinkers, suspended from the pin s
at the front end of the fixed arm or bracket N, each sinker being pushed
forward, so as to sink the thread left by the carrier between the needles by
means of the springs T. U is a "slur cock," fast on the shank of the thread
carrier; it is inclined at each end, so as to pass to and fro along the row of
sinkers, and push them back whilst the thread is being carried under the hooks
of the needles, but immediately on the passage of the slur they resume their
forward position again between the needles. Any of the well known friction
feed motions may be adapted to this machine for the purpose of feeding the
fabric, and therefore we have not considered it requisite to illustrate that
portion of the machine in our Drawings.
Figures 3 and 4 represent respectively a side elevation and front view of a
row of needles fitted into leads, which we intend to use for effecting the
operation of darning in another manner. These needles are each made with
an eye near their points, and are supplied with separate threads of their own.
They are, moreover, slightly curved or bowed, as shewn in Figure 3, so that
when the needles are inserted through the fabric, the several threads will form
a species of open shed, through which a filling or locking thread carried by a
shuttle or by a horizontal needle b is passed before the needles are withdrawn
again, so as to interlock the filling thread with the needle threads in a similar
manner to the weft and warp threads in weaving. or to ordinary hand darning.
We also propose to effect the operation of darning by means of ordinary warp
needles and thread guides, or carriers, precisely after the manner adopted in
machines for producing what are known as hosiery warp fabrics. In all these
darning machines provision is made for turning some of the needles out of
action, so that the number of needles at work will depend entirely upon the
width of the darn to be made. By turning down every alternate needle the
darning may be made coarser, or it may be regulated to a greater nicity by
controlling the forward motion of the sinkers.
Figure 5 represents in section and elevation a portion of a sewing machine
intended for the production either of the lock stitch or knot stitch; and
Figures 6, 7, 8, and 9, are details of the same, which we shall herein-after
more fully describe and refer to.
A is a portion of the table or bed plate of the machine; B, the overhanging
fixed arm or bracket attached thereto; C is the vibrating needle lever, the
lower arm C¹ of which is continued underneath the table A towards the front
of the machine, where it is driven by the cylindrical grooved cam D fast on
the vertical spindle E. This spindle carries at its lower end a horizontal
friction pulley F, or toothed wheel, for the purpose of receiving motion from

page_text: the driving shaft of the machine. In our Drawing we have represented the
friction pulley F as being driven from the side of the rim of the fly wheel G;
the upper end of the vertical spindle E carries a horizontal plate H (shewn
in vertical section and plan at Figures 6 and 7), which supports the thread
case I (Figures 6 and 8). the surface of the plate H being immediately below
a circular opening in the table or bed plate, so as to form a recess or chamber
for the reception of the thread case, as shewn in Figures 5 and 6; 11, Figures
6 and 9, is a cap fitted into the opening in the bed plate to keep the spool
from accidentally rising out of its place; h and are two hooks secured to
the inner side of the plate H with their points in opposite directions, one or
other of these hooks being in action according as the stitch produced is the
ordinary lock stitch or knot stitch, the different stitches being obtained in the
same machine at will by simply reversing its motion. The hooks serve to take
the loops of the vertical needle K and pass it over the spool or thread case I,
whilst the lateral strain which would otherwise come upon the needle during
the extending of the loop is obviated by the stationary stud or pin i, which is
fixed to the table, and lies close alongside the needle when in its downward
position. In reversing the motion of the machine, however, it will also be
requisite to adjust the feed cam in order that the feed may still act at the
proper time. This cam is shewn at k in Figures 5, 6, and 7, it is of an
annular form and fits on to the rim of the plate H, being secured thereon
by means of a set screw or other simple contrivance. The outer edge of the
cam is made to project slightly at ', so as to act horizontally against the feed
bar, and a projection is made on its upper surface, so as to impart the
rising and falling motion to the bar. In adjusting the cam so as to time its
action properly, it is simply necessary to slacken the set screw 1, and then to
turn the ring k upon the plate H until its proper position is attained.
arranging a machine so as to produce the combined lock and tambour stitch,
we propose to attach a revolving looper to the front end of the horizontal
driving shaft underneath the bed plate, which looper takes the loop from the
vertical needle and passes it over a stationary circular spool, which spool may
be withdrawn when the tambour stitch alone is required. Or in lieu of a
stationary spool a shuttle may be employed for carrying the second thread
through the loop of the tambour stitch, and dispensed with when the combined
stitch is not required.
In
Figure 10 represents three views of our improved hemmer, which has only
half a twist or turn, one end a, where the edge of the fabric is first inserted,
being round and rather larger than the opposite end b, where the fabric passes
out, and which is flattened. The larger end affords sufficient space for the

page_text: formation of a double fold in the edge of the fabric, as shewn by the blue line.
These hemmers are, of course, made of different sizes to suit different widths
of hems.
Figure 11 represents one arrangement of our improved braiding guide
detached; and Figure 12 represents three views on a smaller scale, showing the
mode of attaching it to the ordinary presser foot. a is the guide aperture
through which the braid passes, and b, b, are the hooked ends which fit on to
the two sides of the presser foot, as shewn.
Figure 13 represents three views of another arrangement of braiding guide,
wherein the braid is guided on to the under surface of the cloth in lieu of on
to the top surface thereof. This guide consists of a groove or channel a
formed in the under side of the plate b, which is fitted into the table or cloth
plate of the machine; c is a small bridge-piece soldered across the groove, so
as to keep the braid therein; and d is the aperture through which the braid
passes to the under surface of the cloth; e is the opening through which the
needle of the machine works.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Newton Wilson, on behalf of
myself and the said William Tertius Rowlett, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Second day of August, One thousand eight hundred
and sixty-one.