IMPROVE- MENTS IN BOBBIN NET OR LACE MACHINERY
Year: 1866

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to François Rebière, of Saint Piérre lès Calais, Town
in the French Empire, Manufacturer, for the Invention of "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN BOBBIN NET OR LACE MACHINERY."
Sealed the 3rd October 1866, and dated the 5th April 1866.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said François Rebière at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 5th
April 1866.
I, FRANÇOIS REBIÈRE, of Saint Piérre lès Calais, Town in the French
Empire, Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for
"IMPROVEMENTS IN BOBBIN NET OR LACE MACHINERY," to be as follows:-
My Invention consists in the employment in bobbin net or lace machinery
of mechanism consisting of a shuttle with a movable guide, and acting in a
similar manner to the shuttle of looms for weaving. This new machanism does
not alter the various ordinary movements of the machines and their jacquards,
but it forms an addition to the bobbin net or lace machine.
I will, first, shortly describe the passage of the threads in bobbin net or lace
machinery. The fabric is composed of a network of loops, to which em-
broidery is added when required. The network is formed, 1st, by threads
from bobbins mounted in carriages, to which an alternate transverse circular
movement is imparted, they become twisted with the threads of the network
and connect the threads of the embroidery; 2nd, by fine threads passing in.o
fine metallic bars; these threads have an alternate longitudinal course or

page_text: throw operated by the jacquard not exceeding about th of an inch (4 milli-
metres) in the breadth of the fabric. When they are presented sometimes to
the right sometimes to the left of one, two, or three carriages they produce
either the regularity of the fabric or varieties of network which form the
foundation of the designs. The embroidery completing the design is pro-
duced by threads which are twisted and by gimp threads; these two kinds of
threads are mounted on bars capable of receiving, by the intermediation of
the jacquard, the rectilinear longitudinal movement. My new mechanism
may be actuated by the jacquard, or by excentric cams having periodical
movements. By this arrangement it becomes possible to weave all network
and fabrics of bobbin net or lace upon the width of stuffs of looms for
weaving, and even on the width of bobbin net machines of mean size. The
mechanism consists of one or several frames placed below the work. These
frames receive an alternate horizontal rectilinear movement equal to the
breadth of the fabric to be manufactured. Each of them comprises as many
shuttles with movable guide as there are widths of fabric in the machine. At
each end of the race the movable guide receives an alternate vertical or
oblique movement to raise its thread to the points or comb which take it. On
its descent the movable guide rapidly traverses about ths of an inch (2
centimetres) below the carriages to present itself to the points at the other side
of the width or of the machine. At each division or separation of the widths
some points of the comb are removed with the corresponding carriages in such
manner that the thread of the shuttle guide having no contact with the bars
and the carriages of the machine can be of great thickness, and pass into
the fabric notwithstanding the knots not cut close and all the irregularities
of spinning. The alternate horizontal and vertical or oblique movements are
effected during the disengagement of the carriages from the centre of the
machine when the jacquard prepares the different crossings of the fabric.
According as it is required to place or employ one, two, or several frames
they should be separated below more or less from the movement of the comb
bars, and of the bars which form the carriage supports, and according to the
depths I arrange the warp rollers and the rollers of the independent bars.
The following is the manner in which I prefer to construct and actuate my
new mechanism :-Rods or bars connected to the jacquard communicate an
alternate movement to a double lever, which transmits it by a crank to the
frame of my mechanism. This frame consists of a vertical bar, to which the
crank is connected, and of a horizontal beam or bar attached at or near one
end to the upper end of the vertical bar. The lower end of the vertical bar
slides on a horizontal rod, and the horizontal beam slides in supports. When

page_text: several frames are to be employed they should be made of flat iron rolling on
pulleys of large diameter, which are fixed on the framework of the machine
or the jacquard; the supports vary according to the construction of the frame-
work. The shuttle with movable guide, which forms the most important
part of my new mechanism, is composed of a collar fixed on the horizontal.
beam of the frame; from the collar a bobbin is suspended in a convenient
holder; above the collar two small vertical columns are fixed. A cross piece
at the upper end of these columns is formed with an aperture in its middle to
allow movement to a central rod; a lower cross piece slides in the columns
and receives in its middle the central rod and a roller mounted on a horizontal
axis. This roller rolls upon a fixed bar parallel to the horizontal beam of the.
frame. When the frame and parts connected therewith arrive at the end of
their race or course the roller rises up arcs of circles on the fixed bar, thereby
raising the central rod; or a sudden vertical movement may be imparted to
the central rod by causing the roller to be received at the end of its course in
a holder on the end of a vertical bar actuated by a lever, and by a cam fixed
on any convenient shaft of the machine. The vertical rod before mentioned
is formed near its top with an eye through which the thread from the movable
bobbin, before mentioned, and a thread from a fixed bobbin are passed and
distributed. The equilibrium of the thread with the fabric is regulated by
rollers between which the thread passes after leaving the bobbin, and the
tension is restored by a tightening appliance during the horizontal alternate
movements of the movable guide. Between the bobbins and the eye before
mentioned the threads may be led through other eyes if necessary. The
movable vertical rod suddenly changes its horizontal movement into a vertical
movement, in order to present the thread or threads it carries to the work;
the is made to receive the threads from the two bobbins, and each of them
eye
may be much thicker than those hitherto employed in bobbin net machinery.
The guide is arranged so as to stop and perform its ascending movement
either at the end of the machine or at the point decided by the jacquard.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said François Rebière in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
5th October 1866.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, FRANÇOIS
5 REBIÈRE, of Saint Pierre les Calais, Town in the French Empire, Manu-
facturer, send greeting.

page_text: WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Fifth day of April, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-six, in the twenty-ninth year of
Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto
me, the said François Rebière, Her special licence that I, the said François
Rebière, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the
said François Rebière, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any
time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter
during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use,
exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland,
the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS
IN BOBBIN NET OR LACE MACHINERY," upon the condition (amongst others).
that I, the said François Rebière, my executors or administrators, by an.
instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals,.
should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention,
and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to
be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months, next
and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said François Rebière, do hereby declare the
nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement thereof, reference being had to the Drawings hereunto annexed, that
is to say:-
My Invention consists chiefly in the employment in bobbin net or lace
machinery of mechanism consisting of a shuttle with a movable guide, and
acting in a similar manner to the shuttle of looms for weaving. This new
mechanism does not alter the various ordinary movements of the machines
and their jacquards, but it forms an addition to the bobbin net or lace
machine.
I will, first, shortly describe the passages of the threads in bobbin net or
lace machinery. The fabric is composed of a network of loops, to which
embroidery is added when required. The network is formed, first, by threads
from bobbins mounted in carriages, to which an alternate transverse circular
movement is imparted; they become twisted with the threads of the network
and connect the threads of the embroidery; 2nd, by fine threads passing into
fine metallic bars; these threads have an alternate longitudinal course or
'throw operated by the jacquard, not exceeding about th of an inch (4 mille-
metres) in the breadth of the fabric. When they are presented sometimes to
the right sometimes to the left of one, two, or three carriages they produce

page_text: either the regularity of the fabric or varieties of network which form the
foundation of the designs. The embroidery completing the design is produced
by threads which are twisted, and by gimp threads forming the heavy fabric
(tissu mât); these two kinds of threads are mounted on bars capable of
receiving by the intermediation of the jacquard the rectilinear longitudinal
movement. My new mechanism may be actuated by the jacquard or by
excentric cams having periodical movements. By this arrangement it becomes
possible to weave all network and heavy (mâts) fabrics of bobbin net or lace.
upon the width of stuffs in looms for weaving, and even on the width in
bobbin net machines of average size. The mechanism consists of one or
several frames placed below the work. These frames receive an alternate'
horizontal rectilinear movement equal to the width of the stuff to be woven.
Each of them comprises as many shuttles with movable guide as there are
breadths of stuff in the machine. At each end of the race the movable guide
receives an alternate vertical or oblique movement to raise its thread to the
points or comb which take it. On its descent the movable guide rapidly:
traverses about three-fourths of an inch (2 centimetres) below the carriages to
present itself to the points at the other side of the breadth or of the machine.
At each division or separation of the breadths some points of the comb are
removed with the corresponding carriages in such manner that the thread of
the shuttle guide having no contact with the bars and carriages of. the
machine, can be of great thickness and pass into the fabric, notwithstanding
knots not cut close and all irregularities of spinning. The alternate horizontal
and vertical or oblique movements are effected during the disengagement of
the carriages from the centre of the machine when the jacquard prepares the
different crossings of the fabric. In bobbin net machinery there are two
point bars, each of them brings the crossings of the fabric alternately only
after two motions of the machine. My shuttle with movable guide after
having presented its thread very near the fabric at the moment when the
corresponding point bar arrives there, redescends immediately below the
carriages in order to traverse them even when they are in the middle of their
course, and raises the thread from the other side of the stuff very near the fabric
without stopping there. These three movements, descending, horizontal, and
ascending, take place during two motions of the machine. In short my
Invention consists in quite a new mechanism for bobbin net machinery,
because all the bars with long guides hitherto employed make their horizontal
movement only in an intermittent manner during the fifth of a motion, when
the carriages are disengaged from the middle of the machine. According as
it is required to place or employ one, two, or more frames, they should be

page_text: separated below more or less from the movement of the comb bars and of the
bars which form the carriage supports, and according to the depths I arrange
the warp rollers and the rollers of the independent bars.
The following is the manner in which I prefer to construct and actuate my
new mechanism:-The cam A (see Figure 1 of the accompanying Drawings)
mounted on a shaft communicates an alternating movement to a lever L by
the intermediation of two other levers 1, 1, jointed to rods b, b, worked by the
jacquard by means of the rod t. The lever L transmits the alternating
movement to the link or crank B, and consequently to the frame C, C¹; this
frame slides in supports S, S, and on a rod T. When several frames are to
be employed they should be made of flat iron rolling on pulleys of large
diameter, which are fixed on the framework of the machine or of the jacquard;
the supports vary according to the construction of the framework. The
shuttle with movable guide which forms the most important part of my new
mechanism (see Figures 1, 2, and 3), is composed of a collar D fixed on the
horizontal portion of the frame C, C¹; from the collar a bobbin F is suspended
in a convenient holder; this bobbin is shown in Figure 1 as placed horizontally
and in Figures 2 and 3 as placed vertically; above the collar D two small
vertical columns c, c¹, are fixed. A cross piece e at the upper end of these
columns is formed with an aperture in its middle to allow movement to a
rod t, t¹; a lower cross piece e¹ slides in the columns c, c', and receives in its
middle the rod t, t¹, and a roller G mounted on a horizontal axis. This roller
rolls upon a fixed bar V parallel to the horizontal portion of the frame C, C'.
When the frame and parts connected therewith arrive at the end of their
race or course, the roller G rises up arcs of circles A¹. Or a sudden vertical
movement may be imparted to the rod t, t¹, by causing the roller to be received
at the end of its course in or by a holder on the end of a vertical bar M actuated
by a lever Land by a cam E, the contour of which is in accordance with the
cam A; this cam E may be fixed on any convenient shaft of the machine.
The rod t, t', is formed near its top with an eye o, through which the thread
from the movable bobbin F and a thread from a fixed bobbin F¹ are passed
and distributed. The equilibrium of the thread from the bobbin F¹ with the
fabric is regulated by weighted rollers H, H, between which the thread passes
after leaving the bobbin, and the tension is restored by an appliance I during
the horizontal alternate movements of the movable guide. The appliance is
free to move from 1 to 1" (see the detailed view Figure 4). Between the
bobbins F and F and the-eye o the threads may be led through other eyes if
necessary.
It will be seen from the foregoing description that my arrangement of

page_text: shuttle with movable guide does not obstruct the movements of the parts of
the machine, which it improves as it passes very little below the central space
of the machine, where in some cases nearly ten thousand threads are collected.
The movable rod t, t, suddenly changes its horizontal movement into a
vertical movement in order to present the thread or threads it carries to the
work; whether such thread or threads be supplied by the bobbin F or by the
bobbin F, for the eye is made to receive the threads from the two bobbins,
and each of them may be much thicker than those hitherto employed in
bobbin net machinery. The guide is arranged so as to stop and perform its
ascending movement either at the end of the machine or at the point decided
by the jacquard.
The breadths of the fabric of whatever width they may be made may be
united together by end selvages or otherwise.
And having now described the nature of my said Invention, and in what
manner the same is to be performed, I declare that I claim as my improve-
ments in bobbin net or lace machinery,-
First, the combination or arrangement of parts of machinery acting
substantially as herein-before described and represented in the accompanying
Drawings.
Second, the construction and employment of shuttles with movable guides
arranged an acting substantially as herein-before described and represented
in the accompanying Drawings.
In witness whereof, I, the said François Rebière, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Twenty-fourth day of September, One thousand
eight hundred and sixty-six.
Witness,
CH. ARMENGAUD, Jne.,
Civil Engineer,
Boulevard de Strasbourg, 23,
Paris.
F. REBIERE. (L.S.)