Improvements in the Manufacture of Fashioned Neckties and other Articles, and in Machinery for Weaving such Articles.
Year: 1898

page_text: Date of Application, 22nd Oct., 1898-Accepted, 10th Dec., 1898
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Fashioned Neckties and other
Articles, and in Machinery for Weaving such Articles.
We, FRANCIS WILLIAM FRANKLIN, and BERNARD FRANKLIN, of the Firm of
William Franklin & Son, of 48, Bayley Lane, Coventry, in the County of War-
wick, Manufacturers, and JAMES CLARKE, of 35, Russell Street, Coventry
aforesaid, Warehouseman, do hereby declare the nature of our said invention and
in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement:-
Our invention has for its object improvements in the manufacture of tubular
or other woven articles and in the machinery for weaving such articles by which
we are enabled to gradually decrease and increase the width of the material as it
is being woven and has special reference to power looms for weaving neck ties,
scarfs, sockings for boots, bracings or other such like articles whether tubular
or not.
In order that our invention may be clearly understood and more easily carried
into practical effect we have appended hereunto five double sized sheets of draw-
ings upon which we have illustrated two examples of neck ties or scarfs
manufactured according to our invention and also examples of the machinery
for manufacturing the same.
Figure 1 is a view shewing a portion of a neck tie or scarf made according to
our invention.
Figure 2 is a similar view to Figure 1 shewing another form of neck tie or
scarf.
Figure 3 is a front elevation shewing a portion of a power loom with our
improvements applied thereto.
Figure 4 is a side elevation shewing the first set of levers fixed for supporting
the front batten in a raised position.
Figure 5 is a side elevation shewing the second set of levers fixed for holding
the front batten in a still higher position.
Figure 6 is a similar view to Figure 5 shewing the front batten supported by
the last set of levers.
Figure 7 is a plan view shewing the levers working independently of each other
for weaving a tie similar to that shewn by Figure 2.
According to the present method of weaving it has hitherto been found impos-
sible in a power loom to vary the width of the material being woven which is so
desirable when weaving certain portions of such like articles as neck ties or
scarfs. Now according to our invention we can weave the neck ties or scarfs A A¹
as shewn at Figures 1 and 2 whether with or without a lining or linings with the
parts a² which fits around the collar or neck reduced in width and having a
gradual or sudden taper from the broad to the narrow part. In order to accom-
plish the tapering or narrowing as shewn at Figure 1 we fix or attach the slay B
which is formed taper and through which the warp threads pass to the usual
front or movable batten 1) the back or bed of the batten D¹ being attached to the
frame of the loom in the ordinary manner. This front batten D when at its

page_text: lowest point or in the position for weaving the broadest part of the neck tie A
as shewn at Figure 3 is supported upon the frame or box E by means of the bar and
roller F and when the loom is set in motion the batten moves backwards and
forwards thus causing the roller F to travel to and fro on the frame or box E
while the shuttles S which carry the weft pass backwards and forwards across
the warp. This operation is common to all looms and weaves the broad portion
of the neck tie A but in order to decrease the width of the neck ties we pivot the
levers H H and H2 on the bar h³ supported by the sides at the rear of the frame E
and the levers J J¹ J² on the bar 3 also supported by the sides but at the front of
the frame E. These levers are arranged so as to work in pairs-that is to say-
when the front lever H is held fixed in its normal position the back lever J is
also held in its normal position and so on and as the first set of levers when fixed
in their normal positions stand above the edge of the box or frame E and the next
set when fixed in their normal positions above the first set, and the last set when
fixed in their normal positions above the middle set it will be understood that the
batten D is lifted higher as each set is brought into operation. In order to raise
the front levers H H and H2 we attach one of the spiral springs K to the rear
end of each behind the axis 3 which springs have a tendency to raise the front
ends of the levers the said levers being prevented from rising beyond a certain
point by the rear ends 74 coming in contact with the rod 13 as shewn at Figures 4
5 and 6 and for the purpose of keeping these levers fixed where raised to their
normal positions we provide the bolts or catches L L' and L2 one for each lever
which are forced under the projections 5 by means of the springs 3. These bolts
or catches are pivoted on the bar fixed in the frame E and are
operated by means of the wires W or their equivalents which pass under the
guide W. One end of each of the said wires being attached to the lower ends
of the catches and the other ends of the said wires being attached to the levers
or arms M M and M2 fixed onto the rods or shafts N N¹ and N2 which shafts are
operated by cores or their equivalents attached to the ends of the short arms or
levers ³n and fixed onto the said shafts as shewn at Figure 3. The back
levers J J and J2 are raised in a similar manner by means of the spiral springs k
one being attached to the rear ends of each lever, the said levers being prevented
from rising beyond the height of the levers H H and H2 by their rear ends j
coming in contact with the rod or bar 3 and upon the bar 13 the bolts or
catches P P and P2 are pivoted which are provided for the purpose of keeping
the said levers J J and 2 fixed when raised to their normal positions the said
bolts or catches being forced under the projections by the springs which are
attached to their lower ends and to the frame box E. These bolts or catches are
operated by means of the wires W2 one end of each wire being attached to the
upper ends of these bolts or catches and the other ends to the levers or
arms M M and Mª.
Before the loom is set in motion all the bolts or catches are held out of contact
with their respective levers by the cores. T T and T2 or their equivalents the lower
ends of which are attached to the levers n³nt and no respectively and their upper
ends to hooks or other suitable devices fixed to any convenient part of the loom
frame. By this means all the levers are free to move upon their axes and the
front batten D is at its lowest position the roller F resting upon the edges of the
box or frame E as shewn at Figure 3 the warp consequently passing through the
broadest portion of the slay. The loom is now set in motion and the first broad
portion of the tie as shewn at Figure 1 is woven. When it is desired to lift the
batten D so as to commence the tapering portion the cord T is released which
action causes the bolts or catches L and P to catch under the projections and
of the levers H and J thus holding them fixed or in their normal positions by which
means the batten D is held in a higher position as the roller F travels upon these
levers H and J as shewn at Figure 4 consequently the warp passes through a
narrower portion of the slay and the first step in the narrowing of the breadth of
the tie commences: In a like manner when the cord T¹ is released the bolts or

page_text: catches L' and P¹ hold the levers H and J respectively in their normal position
and as the roller F travels upon these levers H and J as shewn at Figure 5 the
batten D is raised still higher consequently the warp passes through a still
narrower portion of the slay. Then when the last cord T is released the bolts
or catches L2 and 12 hold the levers H3 and J2 respectively in their normal
positions the roller F now travelling upon these levers H2 and J2 as shewn at
Figure 6 thus the batten D is raised to its highest point and the warp passes
through the narrowest portion of the slay the loom then weaving the portions a²
of the tie.
In the method as shewn at Figure 7 instead of connecting the ends of the cords
or wires W which operate the bolts or catches L L' and L2 to the arms or
levers M M¹ and M² we connect them direct to hooks or other suitable devices
attached to the frame of the loom so that the levers H H and H³ and J J and J
can be fixed or held in their normal positions independently of each other which
enables us to make the gradual tapering from the broad to the narrow part a² as
shewn in the example at Figure 2.
By this method the lever J can be raised while the corresponding lever H is
down to the level of the box E so that when the batten D travels back on lever J.
the warp is in the narrower portion of the slay B, but when the batten D comes to
the front it rests on the level of box E and the warp again comes into the wide
part of the slay. This change of level during the half the sweep of the batten
does not allow the warp time to recover its full width so that a more gradual taper
is the result. When à sufficient length has been woven in this way the lever H
is then raised and the full extent of the first tapering completed, the batten now
remaining on the one level as it travels backwards and forwards. Then the lever J¹
is raised followed at the proper time by the raising of the lever H¹ then the
lever J is raised and finally the lever H2. By this method a much more extended..
taper is obtained. .
It will be evident that more or less than six levers upon which the roller F
works may be used either working in pairs or independently of each other in
which case each set would stand higher above the level of the box or frame E
than the preceding set, thereby raising the batten and bringing the warp to a
narrower part of the slay B as each lever or set of levers was fixed in its normal
position.
In some cases we may connect the front batten 1 rigidly to the back batten D¹
and arrange them so to move up or down together in which case the slay B may
be fixed to either the back or front batten. Or we may raise the slay B inde-
pendently of the back or front batten by attaching it to a separate frame fixed to
the bar operated by the roller F. The front and back batten would then remain
at one level and only the slay be raised by the action of the different levers as the
narrowing of the warp is effected by the movement of the slay the said warp.
remaining at one level throughout all the various operations.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we
claim is:-
-
CLAIMS.
First. The new scarfs, ties or other tubular woven articles narrowed in the
weaving from one or both ends towards the centre as shewn at a² Figures 1 and 2
the reduction being effected either gradually or suddenly and either with or
without a lining or linings substantially as herein set forth and shewn upon the
drawings by Figures 1 and 2.
Second. The new scarfs, ties, sockings for boots bracings or other tubular woven
articles narrowed in the weaving from one or both ends towards the centre as

page_text: articles which are narrowed or tapered from one or both ends towards the centre
either gradually or suddenly substantially as herein set forth.
Fourth. In looms for weaving tubular or other woven articles connecting the
slay such as B to the movable or front portion of the baiten for the purpose
substantially as herein set forth and as shewn upon the drawings at Figure 3.
Fifth. In looms for weaving arranging the levers such as H H and H2 and
JJ and J2 in pairs in a frame such as E so that the said pairs of levers when in
their normal positions stand one above the other and are capable of being held
in such positions in the manner and for the purpose substantially as herein set
forth and as shewn upon the accompanying sheets of drawings.
Sixth. In looms for weaving supporting and holding the levers such as H H¹
and H2 and JJ and J2 in their normal positions by bolts or catches such as L L'
and L2 and P P and P2 operated either in pairs or independently of one another
for the purpose and in the manner substantially as herein set forth and as shewn
upon the drawings.
Seventh. In looms for weaving pivoting two or more levers in a box or frame
such as E so that each succeeding pair of levers when in their normal positions
stand higher out of the box or frame means being provided for holding the said
either singly or in pairs in such positions for the purpose substantially as herein
set forth and as shewn upon the drawings.
Eighth. In looms for weaving scarf, ties or other articles narrowed in the
weaving from one or both ends towards the centre supporting the front or front
and back batten in its various positions during the process of weaving in the
manner and for the purpose substantially as herein set forth and as shewn upon
the accompanying sheets of drawings.
Ninth. The improvements in machinery for weaving tubular or other woven
articles narrowed in the weaving from one or both ends towards the centre sub-
stantially as herein set forth forth and as shewn upon the accompanying sheets of
drawings.
Dated this 21st day of October 1898
FRANCIS WILLIAM FRANKLIN,
BERNARD FRANKLIN,
JAMES CLARKE,
By George Barker,
Fellow of the Chartered Institute of Patent Agents,
Agent for Applicants,
77, Colmore Row, "Birmingham.