IMPROVEMENTS OF SOCKS AND STOCKINGS
Year: 1884

page_text: We THE SEAMLESS HOSIERY COMPANY Limited and CHARLES JAMES Managing
Director of the said Company both of Petersfield in the County of Hants
Hosiery Manufacturers do hereby declare the nature of our said Invention for
IMPROVEMENTS
OF SOCKS AND STOCKINGS to be as
follows
-
IN THE MANUFACTURE
In the manufacture of socks and stockings as ordinarily carried on in knitting
machines such for example as Griswold a machines the said socks and stockings are
made with the same number of stitches through the instep and the formation of the
heel is the only provision made for the increased size of the foot in this part and
thus these articles are unduly stretched and weakened in these parts when on the
feet This is found to be a very great evil so that these machine made goods are
not appreciated as are the frame made goods of a similar character which are
enlarged on the instep and usually have two or more gussets formed in the sock or
stocking on each side at the place where the heel is made therein which gussets add
greatly to the strength of the article in that part
Now the object of this our invention is to remedy this acknowledged evil and to
manufacture these socks and stockings on the knitting machines with this enlarge-
ment and with these gussets as aforesaid that are found in the frame made goods or
with equivalents of the same and we therefore by and through this our invention
produce an equally serviceable article on a machine
To carry out this object we commence the manufacture of the sock or stocking
on the machine in the usual or other convenient manner either at the toe or at the
other end as we may desire and we proceed in the ordinary manner until we arrive
near the heel when we insert and use a convenient number of extra needles thereby
making more stitches on each side of the foot and producing the gussets or
equivalents thereof that are desired We then continue making the sock or
stocking with these extra needles in work until the heel is passed and until we
reach the level where this enlargement and these gussets are to cease when the said
extra needles are removed and the said sock or stocking is completed in the usual
or other convenient manner
In
We insert and use these extra needles as aforesaid in the following manner
the manufacture of plain work the extra needles we employ are the ordinary ribbing
needles of which a convenient number say from six to ten are placed at the proper

page_text: time as aforesaid in the grooves of the dial and stitches or loops are transferred to
the same from the adjoining knitting needles and the whole number of needles are
worked until the gussets are completed as aforesaid when the stitches or loops are
re-transferred to the knitting needles and the extra ribbing needles are removed
In the manufacture of ribbed work the extra needles we employ are two or more
ribbing noodles used na before described together with a convenient number say
from six to ten knitting neodles which are inserted in the cylinder by the side of
the needles therein already at work and at the proper time as aforesaid stitches or
loops are transferred to all these extra needles from the adjoining needles and the
whole number of needles are worked until the gussets are completed as aforesaid
when the stitches or loops are re transferred to the adjoining needles and the extra
needles are removed We may either insert and remove the extra needles as afore
Baid all together at one and the same time or we may insert and remove one or
more of the sand needles as ench row is knitted until the required number thereof
are inserted or the whole number thereof are removed
We THE SEAMLESS HOSIERY COMPANY Limited and CHARLES JAMES Managing
Director of the said Company both of Petersfield in the county of Hants
Hosiery Manufacturers do hereby declare the nature of our said invention for
IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF SOCKS AND STOCKINGS and in what
manner the same 19 to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement
-
In the manufacture of socks and stockings as ordinarily carried on in knitting
machines such for example as Griswolds machines the said socks or stockings are
made with the same number of stitches through the instep and the formation of the
heel is the only provision made for the increased size of the foot in this part and
thus these articles aforesaid are unduly stretched and weakened in these parts when
on the feet.
This is found to be a very great evil so that these machine made
goods are not appreciated as are the frame made goods of a similar character which
are onlarged on the instep and usually have two or more gussets formed in the
socks or stocking on each side where the heels are made therein which gussets add
greatly to the strength of the articles in those parts
Now the object of this our invention is to remedy this acknowledged evil and to
manufacture these socks and stockings on the knitting machines with this enlarge
ment and with these gussets as aforesaid that are found in the frame made goods or
with equivalents of the same and we therefore by and through this our invention
produce equally serviceable articles on and by a machine

page_text: To carry out this object we commence the manufacture of the sock or stocking
on the machine in the usual or other convenient manner either at the toe or at the
other or leg end as we may desire and we proceed in the ordinary manner until we
arrive near the heel when we insert in the machine and use a convenient number of
extra needles which are similar to or of the same kind and description as those
alrendy in work in the machine or as some of the same thereby making more
stitches on each side of the foot and producing the gussets or the equivalents
thereof that are desired. We then continue making the sock or stocking with these
extra needles in work until the heel is passed and until we reach the level or place
where this enlargement and these gussets or the equivalents thereof are to cease
when the said extra needles are removed and the said sock or stocking 18 completed
and finished off in the usual or other convenient manner We may either insert
and remove the extra needles as aforesaid all together at one and the same time or
as is preferable we may insert and remove one or more of the said needles as each
round is knitted or otherwise until the required number thereof have been inserted
or the whole number thereof have been removed as is desired
Having thus stated generally the nature of our said invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed we will now proceed to describe in detail the
manner in which we insert and use and remove these extra needles as aforesaid
applying the same by way of illustration to a Griswold machine with 108 needles
in the manufacture of a sock or stocking the foot of which 18 10 or 10 inches
long
In the manufacture of Plain work the procedure is the same whether we
commence at the toe or at the other or leg end and when in the ordinary process of
manufacture we have arrived at about 2 inches more or less or 30 rounds more or
less from the heel 1 ribbing needle is inserted in a vacant groove of the dial on
each side of the machine to each of which ribbing needles a stitch or loop 18
transferred from the adjoining knitting needle and the knitting is proceeded with
for about 8 or 10 rounds when 2 more ribbing needles are inserted in a similar
manner on each side of the machine 1 of the said 2 needles being on either side of
the ribbing needle last inserted as aforesaid and stitches or loops being also
transferred to these needles as before described about 8 or 10 more rounds are made
when 2 more ribbing needles are inserted in a similar manner on each side of the
machine 1 of the said 2 needles being on either side of the 3 ribbing needles before
inserted as aforesaid and stitches or loops being also transferred to these needles as
before described about 8 or 10 more rounds are made All these ribbing needles of
which as herein before described 10 have been inserted 5 of this number being on
each side of the machine receive their stitches or loops from the corresponding and
adjoining knitting needles the said stitches or loops being transferred to each
ribbing needle respectively We then remove according to the size of the heel
3 or 4 of these ribbing needles previously inserted as aforesaid and toward the back
of the sock or stocking at the same time re transferring their stitches or loops to
their own knitting needles from which the said stitches or loops were taken which
knitting needles are placed in their respective cylinder grooves to be used in making
the beel of the said sock or stocking The heel is then formed in the usual manner
and when the said heel is finished the 3 or 4 ribbing needles previously removed as
aforesaid are replaced and the stitches or loops from the corresponding knitting
needles being again transferred thereto about 8 or 10 rounds are made when the
2 outside ribbing needles on each side of the machine are removed the stitches or
loops therefrom being re transferred to their knitting needles which occupy corre-
sponding grooves in the cylinder and about 8 or 10 more rounds are made when
again the next 2 outside ribbing needles on each side of the machine are removed
the stitches or loops therefrom being similarly re transferred to their knitting
needles as before described and about 8 or 10 more rounds are made when 1 ribbing
needle on each side of the machine is removed these being the 2 last of the extra
needles inserted as herein before described the stitches or loops therefrom being
similarly re transferred to their knitting needles as before described and the sock or

page_text: By
stocking is completed and finished off by the ordinary process of manufacture
this process and method therefore as herein before described the enlargements being
the gussets or the equivalents thereof are duly formed and completed on each sido
of this Plain work soch or stocking as is desired
In the manufacture of Ribbed work the procedure is necessarily different according
as we commence at the toe or at the other or leg end as the under part of the foot
of the sock or stocking must be or preferably and generally 18 plain while the top
part of the said foot is ribbed
We will first describe our invention as applied to a sock or stocking which has
been commenced at the other or leg end and when in the ordinary process of the
manufacture of this ribbed work we have arrived at about 2 inches more or less or
30 rounds more or less from the heel we adjust the dial of the machine containing
the ribbing needles so that the said ribbing needles would work partly over the
cylinder post and partly over the cylinder grooves and then 1 knitting needle 19
inserted in a vacant cylinder groove on each side of the machine the hook of each
needle being passed through the loop of the adjoining ribbing stitch on a ribbing
needle already at work so that a stitch may be formed without making a defect in
the web and the knitting is proceeded with for about 8 or 10 rounds when 2 more
knitting needles are inserted in a similar manner on each side of the machine 1 of
the said 2 needles being on either side of the knitting needle last inserted as afore-
said and loops from the adjoining ribbing needles being caught by the hooks of
theso needles as before described about 8 or 10 more rounds are made when 2 more
knitting needles are inserted in a similar manner on each side of the machine 1 of
the said 2 needles being on either side of the 3 knitting needles before inserted as
aforesaid and loops from the adjoining ribbing needles being caught by the hooks
of these needles as before described about 8 or 10 more rounds are made We then
remove according to the size of the heel 3 or 4 of those knitting needles previously
inserted as aforesaid and toward the back of the sock or stocking at the same time
transferring their stitches to the adjoining knitting needles and we proceed to form
the heel of the said sock or stocking in the usual manner and when the said heel is
finished we replace only such of these knitting needles previously removed as afore-
said if any as are required to make the ribbed work at the top of the foot and
instead or in place of the other knitting needlos so removed as aforesaid wo
introduce 2 or 3 ribbing needles on either side of the foot into that part of
the plain work which comes close against or in proximity to the ribbed work
extending over the top of the foot as aforesaid and we get or obtain the loops that
are required for these ribbing needles aforesaid either from the loops of the adjoining
knitting needles by passing the hook of each of the said bbing needles through
the loop of the knitting needle by its side or by transferring the loop of the said
kuitting needle to the ribbing needle and removing the said knitting needle from
the machine About 8 or 10 rounds are then made when the outside knitting
needle and the outside ribbing needle on each side of the machine are removed the
loops therefrom being placed over the adjoining knitting needles or when as herein-
before described the ribbing needle has a loop that has been transferred from
a knitting needle the said loop is re transferred to a knitting needle which is then
replaced in the vacant groove and about 8 or 10 more rounds are made when agun
the outside knitting needle and the outside ribbing needlo on each side of the
machine are removed the loops therefrom being similarly treated as before described
and about 8 or 10 more 1ounds are made when 1 knitting needle on each side of
the machine is removed these being the 2 last of the extra needles inserted as
herein before described the loops therefrom being similarly treated as before
descubed and the sock or stocking is completed and finished off by the ordinary
process of manufacture
When the sock or stocking has been commenced at the too end and in the
ordinary process of the manufacture of the ribbed work we have arrived at about
2 inches more or less or 30 rounds more or less from the heel we adjust the dial of
the machine in manner as herein before described and then 1 knitting needle is

page_text: inserted in a vacant cylinder groove on each side of the machine and is treated as
18, herein before stated and the knitting is proceeded with for about 8 or 10 rounds
when 2 more needles are inserted also on each side of the machine 1 of which
needles is a ribbing needle and 1 18 a knitting needle the ribbing needles working
in the plain or under part of the foot of the sock or stocking while the knitting
needles are placed by the sides of the knitting needles last inserted as aforesaid and
are treated as is herein before stated and the said ribbing needles obtain their
required loops either by passing the hooks of the said ribbing needles through the
loops of the adjoining knitting needles or by transferring the loops of the said
knitting needles to the said ribbing needles and removing the said knitting needles
from the machine About 8 or 10 more rounds are then made when 2 more
needles are inserted in a similar manner on each side of the machine 1 of which
needles is a ribbing needle and 1 is a knitting needle and these needles are also
treated in manner as herein before described and about 8 or 10 more rounds are
made We then remove all these aforesaid ribbing needles and 2 of the aforesaid
knitting needles or more or less according to the size of the heel which have been
previously inserted and toward the back of the sock or stocking transferring their
stitches or loops to knitting needles and we proceed to form the heel of the said
sock or stocking in the usual manner and when the said heel 18 finished the same
number of needles as have been previously removed as aforesaid are replaced but
knitting needles supplant and are required and used instead of the hereinbefore
described ribbing needles which knitting needles are also treated and receive the
necessary loops in manner as herein before described and about 8 or 10 rounds
are made when the 2 outside knitting needles on each side of the machine are
removed the loops therefrom being treated as is before described and about 8 or 10
more rounds are made when again the next 2 outside knitting needles on each side
of the machine are removed the loops therefrom being also treated as 18 before
described and about 8 or 10 more rounds are made when 1 knitting needle on each
side of the machine is removed these being the 2 last of the extra needles inserted
as herein before described the loops therefrom being also treated as is before
described and the sock or stocking is completed and finished off by the ordinary
process of manufacture
By these processes and methods therefore as hereinbefore described the enlarge
mente being the gussets or the equivalents thereof are duly formed and completed
on each side of this Ribbed work sock or stocking as is desired
We have thus described our invention as applied to a Griswold niachine but it is
sufficiently obvious that the same can be applied in a similar manner to all other
machines of a circular or tubular type
We have also described our invention as applied to a machine with 108 needles
but it is obvious that the same can be applied in a similar manner to machines of
other sizes and we would state that our practice therein 18 as follows In machines
with 52 and 60 needles or thereabouts to carry out this our herein described
invention we should use 6 extra needles In machines with 72 and 84 needles
or thereabouts we should similarly use 8 extra needles In maclunes with 96
and 120 needles or thereabouts we should similarly use 10 extra needles as 18
hereinbefore described In machines with 132 and 144 needles or thereabouts we
should similarly use 12 extra needles And in machines larger or smaller than
these we have thus named we should maintain about the same proportion of extra
needles
We have also described our invention as applied in the manufacture of a sock or
stocking with a foot 10 or 10 inches long but it is obvious that the same can be
applied in a similar manner in the manufacture of socks or stockings of other sizes
and we would state that our practice therein is as follows When the foot of the
sock or stocking 18 9 inches long to carry out this our herein described invention
we should reduce the number of extra needles used as aforesaid by 20 per centum
When the foot of the sock or stocking 18 11 inches long we should similarly increase
the number of extra needles used as aforesaid by 20 per centum. And when the

page_text: foot of the sock or stocking is larger or smaller than these we have thus named we
should maintain about the same proportion of increase or of reduction
We have also stated that between each insertion and removal as aforesaid of the
extra needles about 8 or 10 rounds are made This is suitable for the machines
with 90 and 120 neodles or thereabouts as well as for the machine with 108 needles
herembefore described but in the smaller machines that is to say the machines
with 52 60 72 and 84 needles or thereabouts we should reduce the number of
rounds so mado as aforesaid between each insertion and removal of the extra
needles by 20 per centum and in the larger machines that is to say the machines
with 132 and 144 needles or theron bouts we should similarly increase the number
of rounds aforesaid by 20 per centum and in machines larger or smaller than these
we have thus named we should maintain about the same proportion of increase or
of reduction
At the same time we would have it clearly understood that though we have
herein before stated and described certain numbers of extra needles and certain
numbers of rounds to be made between each insertion and removal of the said extra
needles which numbers we consider are in ordinary cases the most suitable for
carrying out our object herein before declared yet we do in no wise limit ourselves
to the said numbers as herembefore stated and described for the same may be and
can be and sometimes are altered and varied as may be necessary or convenient
having regard to the particular size or shape or style of the sock or stocking that is
to be made in each several case.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what
we claim 16
1 In circular or tubular knitting machines the extra needles inserted and used
and removed substantially as and for the purpose here before described and
declared
2 The method or manner of enlarging the insteps and forming gussets or their
equivalents on the sides of machine made socks or stockings substantially as and
for the purpose hereinbefore described and declared