Year: 1886

page_text: Date of Application, 28th Aug., 1886.
Complete Left, 27th May, 1887.
Complete Accepted, 28th June, 1887,
Holes.
I, ARTHUR HELWIG, of 123, Leighton Road, Kentish Town, in the county of
Middlesex, Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as
follows:
This invention has reference to machines known as automatic button hole making
machines and particularly that kind forming the subject of Lettors Patent No. 5493
dated 15th December 1881 granted to myself and the late James Dewdney.
My present invention has for object to make what is known in the trade as the
"final bar," that is to say, the stitching across the narrow end of the buttonhole,
which heretofore it has been usual to do by hand. Thus by my invention I am
enabled to completely make the button hole by machinery without any hand work,-
and in order that the nature of my invention and the manner of carrying it into
practical effect may be clearly understood I append three sheets of illustrative
drawings.
Fig. 1 shows a machine embodying my invention, which comprises an arrangement
of mechanism in connection with the needle bar, the revolving hook or looper, and the
feed; the operation being such that when it is required to produce the final bar or
sewing across the narrow end of the buttonhole, the needle is caused to have a
greater swinging or side to side motion, and the revolving hook or looper, or its
equivalent, which engages the loop of thread formed below the fabric, is caused to
have an increased end wise motion, such as will place the same in a proper position to
receive the thread from the needle when it descends through the fabric; and the
feeding mechanism is caused to remain stationary, or out of operation; all these
changes in operation being brought about by a single adjustment of the finai bar
mechanism or attachment according to my invention as hereinafter described and
continuing during the formation of the "final bar." The upper part of the machine
is shown in elevation with the side plate or arm of the "goose-neck" (that is, the
hollow arm containing the operating mechanism,) removed, and the base-plate and parts
connected therewith are shown in section. Fig. 2 is an inverted plan or under-side
view. Figs. 3 to 8 are to a larger scale. Fig. 3 is a view similar to Fig. 1. showing
part of the goose-neck and base-plate with connected mechanism.

page_text: Fig. 4 is a view at right angles to Fig. 3 of the attachment for producing the final
bar or sewing across the narrow end of the button hole. It is shown as seen looking
in the direction of the arrow A in Fig. 3.
Fig. 5 is a plan or top view showing part of the ratchet wheel 21 that constitutes
the feed-plate, also the pawl 22 whereby the same is actuated; the slide or bar 23
that carries the said pawl and the cam 20 on the revolving hook or looper shaft 17,
which operates the said slide or bar; and part of the locking bar whereby the slide or
bar 28 is locked so as to keep the feeder out of action during the formation of the
final bar.
Fig. 6 shows in side elevation a contrivance whereby the final bar attachment is
moved into position for causing the greater traverse of the needle and of the revolving
hook or looper, respectively, for producing the final bar, and whereby the said
attachment is afterwards lowered into the position it occupies during the ordinary
sewing round of the button hole. This view shows the contrivance as seen looking
in the direction of the arrow B in Fig. 3.
Fig. 7 shows the same contrivance as seen looking in the contrary direction.
Fig. 8 represents an eccentric device which can be used for the same purpose.
In a machine of the kind hereinabove referred to for making button holes there
are used a die or cutter 1 and cutter block 2 for cutting the hole, sewing mechanism
(it may be of the construction shown in the drawings or of any other suitable
construction) for sewing the edges of the hole, and a travelling clip or holder
(described in the specification of the previous patent already alluded to) that holds
the material during the cutting and sewing operations. The clip or holder is guided
by a central stud or pivot 3, through which the sewing needle 4 passes, and about
which the clip or holder turns; a stud or projection on the clip or holder; and a
guiding slot in the face-plate or table of the machine; the clip or holder being
worked by means of a cam or eccentric (not shown) whose axis of rotation is
coincident with the axis of the stud or pivot 3 through which the needle works. The
two ordinary motions, videlicet the side to side motion of the needle bar 5 and the
ordinary endwise motion of the revolving hook or looper 6 may be conveniently
derived from two cams, 7 and 8 on a vertical shaft 9, as before; the upper one 7 acts
on a bowl 9 at the end of a rod 10 in connection with the slide 11 of the needle bar ;
and the lower cam 8 on a bowl 12 running on an arm or stud 13 attached to a
sleeve 14 retained between collars 15 and 16 on the revolving hook or looper shaft 17.
In each case (as before,) the cam forces the bowl in one direction only, the return
motion being effected by a spring 18, and limited by an adjustable stud 19. 20 is a
cam on the revolving hook or looper shaft 17. This cam in its rotation operates the
bar or slide 23, in the direction of the arrow, and it is returned by a spring, not
shown. The slide 23 carries a pawl 22, which, by the reciprocations of the slide, is
caused to impart intermittent motion, in a rotary sense, to the ratchet wheel 21.
I proceed now to describe arrangements whereby the machine is rendered capable
of producing the final bar.
24 and 25 aro cams fixed to the shaft 9* they are of greater throw or eccentricity
than the cams 7 and 8, and act upon bowls or rollers 26 and 27, respectively, when
they occupy the higher positions hereinafter described; then they impart longitudinal
motion to the said bowls in one direction. The bowls 26 and 27 are carried
respectively in a slot or opening in a frame piece 28 and in a frame piece 29; each of
these frame pieces is hinged or jointed to an intermediate connecting bar or link 30.
The bowl 26 is on the same stud or pin 31 as the bowl 9; and the bowl 27 is on the
same stud or pin 13 as the bowl 12. The combined parts 28, 29, and 30, slide on
and are guided in their vertical motion (when lifted or lowered) by the studs or
pins 13 and 31 on which the bowls work. 33 is an arm or finger hinged to the frame
piece 28; it extends through the base plate of the machine and takes against one end
of the feed locking bar 34 which is jointed at 34* to the bar 35 pivotted at 35* to the
underside of the base plate. 36 is a catch or stop on the underside of the base plate
adapted to engage with a shoulder 37 on the locking bar 34 and to hold the said bur
in its forward or locking position during the production of the final bar of a button-

page_text: hole. 34 is a stud that extends through a slot in the locking bar and is fixed in the
underside of the base plate. 43 is a spring under compression between the head of
the stud and the locking bar.
Referring now to the means for altering the positions of the bowls to change the
throw of the needle and looper, in the one arrangement, 38 is a pin working in a
slot 39 in the link 30; it is carried by a link 31 and can be operated so as to impart
vertical motion to the link 30, by a lever 39 through the intervention of a link 40;
this link is fixed at one end to a pin 41 on the lever 30 and at its other end is hinged
or pivotted to the link 31. In lieu of the just described arrangement the lever 39
may operate an eccentric 42 direct, as shown in fig. 8, the eccentric taking into the
slot 39 in the link 30 as will be readily understood.
The operation of the mechanism is as follows: When the parts are in the relative
positions shown in the drawings the bowls 7 and 8 and springs 18 during the
working of the machine will impart the swinging or to and fro movement to the
needle bar and the longitudinal to and fro motions to the hook or looper shaft 17
required to effect the ordinary sewing round of the button hole. When this has
been finished the combined parts 28, 29, and 30, and attached arm or finger 33 are
raised by operating the lever 39 by hand so as to place the cams 24 and 25 in
rolling contact with the bowls 26 and 27. The locking bar 34 will then be pressed
against the catch or stop 36 by the spring 43. Whilst the parts occupy these
positions, the rotation of the machine will cause the cams 24 and 25 to impart the
increased longitudinal motion to the shafts 10 and 17 and consequently also to the
needle and looper required to produce the final bar. The final bar may consist of
any desired number of stitches. On the first forward movement of the sleeve
piece 14 after the raising of the parts 28, 29, and 30, and attached parts the locking
bar 34 will be forced forward so as to take behind a projection 23* attached to the
feeding bar 23, (as shown in dotted lines,) and so will prevent the said bar being
returned under the action of its spring or equivalent thus stopping the feeding
mechanism. When the final har is finished the combined parts 28, 29, and 30 and
attached parts are again lowered into the position shewn in the drawings; the
lowering of the arm or finger 33 will cause it to force the locking bar 34 away from
the catch or stop 36. The locking bar 34 will then return to its original position
under the action of the spring 44, and the ordinary sewing of another buttonhole
can be proceeded with.
A T 1000
W. LLOYD WISE,
46, Lincoln's Inn Fields, London, W.C.,
Agent for the Applicant.

page_text: L, ARTHUR HELWIG, of 123, Leighton Road Kentish Town, in the County of
Middlesex, Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention, and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement:-
This invention has reference to machines known as automatic button hole making
machines and particularly that kind forming the subject of Letters Patent No. 5493
dated 15th December 1881 granted to myself and the late James Dewdney.
My present invention has for object to make what is known in the trade as the
"final bar," that is to say, the stitching across the narrow end of the button hole,
which heretofore it has been usual to do by hand. Thus by my invention I am
enabled to completely make the button holo by machinery without any hand work;
and in order that the nature of my invention and the manner of carrying it into
practical effect may be clearly understood, I refer to the illustrative drawings filed with
my provisional specification, and in which
Fig. 1 shows a machine embodying my invention, which comprises an arrangement
of mechanism in connection with the needle bar, the revolving hook or looper, and
the feed; the operation being such that when it is required to produce the final bar
or sewing across the narrow end of the button hole, the needle is caused to have a
greater swinging or side to side motion, and the revolving hook or looper, or its
equivalent, which engages the loop of thread formed below the fabric, is caused to
have an increased end wise motion, such as will place the same in a proper position to
receive the thread from the needle when it descends through the fabric; and the
feeding mechanism is caused to remain stationary, or out of operation; all these
changes in operation being brought about by a single adjustment of the final bar
mochanism or attachment according to my invention as hereinafter described and
continuing during the formation of the "final bar." The upper part of the machine
is shown in elevation with the side plate or arm of the " goose-neck" (that is, the
hollow arm containing the operating mechanism,) removed, and the base-plate and
parts connected therewith are shown in section.
Fig. 2 is an inverted plan or under-side view.
Figs. 3 to 8 are to a larger scale.
Fig. 3 is a view similar to Fig. 1. showing part of the goose-neck and base-plate
with connected mechanism.

page_text: Fig. 4 is a view at right angles to Fig. 3 of the attachment for producing the final
bar or sewing across the narrow end of the button bole. It is shown as seen looking
in the direction of the arrow A in Fig. 3.
Fig. 5 is a plan or top view showing part of the ratchet wheel 21 that constitutes
the feed-plate, also the pawl 22 whereby the same is actuated; the slide or bar 23
that carries the said pawl and the cam 20 on the revolving hook or looper shaft 17,
which operates the said slide or bar; and part of the locking bar whereby the slide
or bar 23 is locked so as to keep the feeder out of action during the formation of the
final bar.
Fig. 6 shows in side elevation a contrivance whereby the final bar attachment is
moved into position for causing the greater traverse of the needle and of the
revolving hook or looper, respectively, for producing the final bar, and whereby the
said attachment is afterwards lowered into the position it occupies during the ordinary
sewing round of the button hole. This view shows the contrivance as seen looking
in the direction of the arrow B. in Fig. 3.
Fig. 7 shows the same contrivance as seen looking in the contrary direction.
Fig. 8 represents an eccentric device which can be used for the same purpose.
In a machine of the kind herein above referred to for making button holes there are
used a die or cutter 1 and cutter block 2 for cutting the hole, sewing mechanism (it
may be of the construction shown in the drawings or of any other suitable construc-
tion) for sewing the edges of the hole, and a travelling clip or holder (described in
the Specification of the previous patent already alluded to) that holds the material
during the cutting and sewing operations. The clip or holder is guided by a central
stud or pivot 3, through which the sewing needle 4 passes, and about which the clip
or holder turns a stud or projection on the clip or holder; and a guiding slot in the
face-plate or table of the machine; the clip or holder being worked by means of a
cam or eccentric (not shown) whose axis of rotation is coincident with the axis of
the stud or pivot through which the needle works. The two ordinary motions,
videlicet, the side to side motion of the needle bar 5, and, the ordinary end wise motion
of the revolving hook or looper 6, may be conveniently derived from two cams, 7 and 8,
on a vertical shaft 9, as before; the upper one 7 acts on a bowl 9 at the end of a
rod 10 in connection with the slide 11 of the needle bar; and the lower cam 8 on a
bowl 12 running on an arm or stud 13 attached to a sleeve 14 retained between
collars 15 and 16 on the revolving hook or looper shaft 17. In each case (as before)
the cam forces the bowl in one direction only, the return motion being effected by springs
18 and 18, and limited by an adjustable collar 19. 20 is a cam on the revolving hook
or looper shaft 17. This cam in its rotation operates the bar or slide 28, in the
direction of the arrow, and it is returned by a spring, not shown. The slide 23 carries
a pawl 22, which, by the reciprocations of the slide, is caused to impart intermittent
motion, in a rotary sense, to the ratchet wheel 21.
I proceed now to describe arrangements whereby the machine is rendered capable of
producing the final bar.
24 and 25 are cams fixed to the shaft 9"; they are of greater throw or eccentricity
than the cams 7 and 8, and act upon bowls or rollers 26 and 27, respectively, when
they occupy the higher positions hereinafter described; then they impart longitudinal
motion to the said bowls in one direction. The bowls 26 and 27 are carried
respectively in a slot or opening in a frame piece 28 and in a frame piece 29; each
of these frame pieces is hinged or jointed to an intermediate connecting bar or link 30.
The bowl 26 is on the same stud or pin 31 as the bowl 9; and the bowl 27 is on the
same stud or pin 13 as the bowl 12. The combined parts 28, 29, and 30, slide on and
are guided in their vertical motion (when lifted or lowered) by the studs or pins 13
and 31 on which the bowls work. 33 is an arm or finger hinged to the frame
piece 28; it extends through the base plate of the machine and takes against one
end of the feed locking bar 34 which is jointed at 34* to the bar 35 pivotted at 35*
to the underside of the base plate. 36 is a catch or stop on the underside of the base
plate, adapted to engage with a shoulder 37 on the locking bar 34 and to hold the

page_text: said bar in its forward or locking position during the production of the final bar of
a button hole. 34" is a stud that extends through a slot in the locking bar and is
fixed in the underside of the base plate. 43 is a spring under compression between
the head of the stud and the locking bar.
Referring now to the means for altering the positions of the bowls to change the
throw of the needle and looper, in the one arrangement, 38 is a pin working in a
slot 39 in the link 30 it is carried by a link 31* (Fig. 7) and can be operated
so as to impart vertical motion to the link 30, by a lever 39 through the intervention of
a link 40; this link is fixed at one end to a pin 41 on the lever 39 and at its other
end is hinged or pivotted to the link 31. In lieu of the just described arrangement
the lever 39 may operate an eccentric 42 direct, as shown in fig. 8, the eccentric
taking into the slot 39 in the link 30 as will be readily understood.
The operation of the mechanism is as follows: When the parts are in the relative
positions shown in the drawings the cams 7 and 8 and springs 18 and 18 during the
working of the machine will impart the swinging or to and fro movement to the
needle bar and the longitudinal to and fro motions to the hook or looper shaft 17
required to effect the ordinary sewing round of the button hole. When this has been
finished the combined parts 28, 29, and 30, and attached arm or finger 33 are raised
by operating the lever 39 by hand so as to place the cams 24 and 25 in rolling contact
with the bowls 26 and 27. The locking bar 34 will then be pressed against the catch
or stop 36 by the spring 43. Whilst the parts occupy these positions, the rotation of
the machine will cause the cams 24 and 25 to impart the increased longitudinal motion
to the shafts 10 and 17 and consequently also to the needle and looper required to
produce the final bar. The final bar may consist of any desired number of stitches.
On the first forward movement of the sleeve piece 14 after the raising of the
parts 28, 29, and 30, and attached parts, the locking bar 34 will be forced forward so
as to take behind a projection 23* attached to the feeding bar 23, (as shown in dotted
lines,) and so will prevent the said bar being returned under the action of its spring
or equivalent thus stopping the feeding mechanism. When the final bar is finished
the combined parts 28 29 and 30 and attached parts are again lowered into the posi-
tion shown in the drawings; the lowering of the arm or finger 33 will cause it to
force the locking bar 34 away from the catch or stop 36. The locking bar 34 will
then return to its original position under the action of the spring 44, and the ordinary
sewing of another button hole can be proceeded with.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said invention,
and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what 1 claim is :—
1. In a machine for making button holes, the combination with a needle and a looper
each having a longitudinal or to and fro movement imparted to it of mechanism
whereby the same can be operated so as with a single thread to sew not only round
the edge of a button hole but also to make the final bar or stitches across the end of
such button hole thereby completing it without a separate sewing operation.
2. In a machine for making button holes, the combination of a swinging needle
bar, a looper, means for imparting thereto a to and fro longitudinal movement, a
feeder and means whereby the foeder can be locked out of operation, a greater swinging
motion can be imparted to the needle bar (or needle) and corresponding increased
longitudinal motion to the looper, in such a manner as to enable the final bar or
sewing across the end of a button hole to be effected substantially as hereinabove
described.
3. In a machine such as referred to in claim 1, the combination with a shaft that
imparts swinging motion to the needle bar, of mechanism comprising a sleeve 9*,
spring 18, bowls 9 and 26 on a pin 31, and cams 7 and 24 on a shaft 9, the arrange-
ment being such that a smaller or greater swinging motion can be imparted to the
needle bar by adjusting the position of the bowl 26 according as it is required to
effect ordinary sewing of the edge of a button hole or to make the final bar or stitches
across the end of such button hole as above described.

page_text: 4. In combination with the parts referred to in claim 3 and a sleeve and spring 18
on the looper shaft, bowls 12 and 27 on a stud or pin 13 in a frame piece connected to
the upper frame piece 28, and cams 8 and 25 on the shaft 9" the arrangement being
such that when the increased swinging motion is imparted to the needle, increased
longitudinal movement will be imparted to the looper so as to cause the same to take
the proper positions to receive the thread from the needle when it descends through
the fabric during the formation of the final bar or stitches across the end of the button
hole.
5. In combination with mechanism such as referred to in claims 3 and 4, and with
a feeder; a catch or stop 36, slotted locking bar 34 with shoulder 37 jointed to a
pivotted bar 35; a stud 34"; spring 43; spring 44; and an arm or finger 33 jointed
to the frame piece 28, the arrangement being such that when the bowls have been
moved into the positions for imparting the greater throw to the needle and looper for
making a final bar, the locking bar 34 will by the action of the cam 25 be caused to
take a position in which it will lock the slide or bar 23 thus arresting the feed as
described.