Improvements in Embroidering Machines.
Year: 1890

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Embroidering Machines.
We, LEONARD MICK, MATHIAS KURSTEINER and EMIL LANENZ, of 15 Rue Richelieu,
Paris in the Republic of France, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and
in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This invention relates to improvements in combined printing and embroidering
machines (the embroidering device being constructed in accordance with either
Heilmann's or Rieter's continuous thread system) producing printed designs con-
cordant with embroidered designs, for which machine Letters Patent have been
granted to us dated the 20th of September 1889 (No. 14874).
These improvements mainly consist
(1) In rendering the circular printing dies movable round their centre, so that by
the motion of the die and of the design it carries, a great number of highly decorative
effects may be obtained by means of one and the same design, and
(2) In providing a more simple colouring or inking device ensuring a more even
and uniform distribution of colour or ink to the printing dies.
To enable our improvements to be more readily understood, we have represented
them in the accompanying drawings as applied to the Swiss embroidering frame or
loom according to Heilmann's system.
The same letters of reference indicate like parts in all figures; the small letters
refer to new parts and the capitals to the well known devices of the Swiss embroidering
machine already alluded to.
Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5 are full sized views of the new parts combined with the
ordinary embroidering frame.
Figures 6, 7 and 8 show at one fourth full size the novel parts as applied to
Heilmann's machine, which is represented in the act of printing a design upon suitable
fabric.
Fig. 1 is a sectional elevation of the colour or ink feed travelling opposite the
printing dies arranged vertically.
Fig. 2 is a plan of the said feed.
Fig. 3 is a side elevation of the printing mechanism turned up to the vertical
position which it assumes when printing and while the dies are supplied with colour
or ink.
Fig. 4 is a front elevation of the printing mechanism wherein the dies e are operated
by means of the rack g.
Fig. 5 shows the "same mechanism in the identical position but with the dies
operated by pinions arranged between each pair of toothed wheels enclosing
the dies.
Fig. 6 is a side elevation of the two curved frames of the ordinary embroidering
machine brought near each other to enable the printing devices to print upon the
fabric L stretched upon the movable frame H.
Fig. 7 is a front elevation of the printing mechanism supposed to be operated by
pinions interposed between each pair of gear wheels each of which wheels surrounds
one of the printing dies, and
Fig. 8 is a front elevation of the printing mechanism supposed to be operated by
means of a movable rack which acts upon each of the gear wheels surrounding one
of the printing dies.
り
The printing mechanism Figs. 3, 4 and 5 consists of a support or bracket y rigidly
secured to the horizontal rod A of the embroidery machine by means of one or more
screws g. This support extends upwardly and is provided with an eye to receive
the pivot of an arm p provided with a projecting finger p¹ which rests against the

page_text: vertical side of the support a when the printing dies e are vertical. This arm con-
stitutes the support of a T-shaped bar the vertical wing of which supports the dies
the surrounding toothed wheel and the rack or the pinions, as the case may be,
operating the said dies. The vertical wing or arm is perforated in such a manner
that in front of each of the needles Y of the frame there is an opening through
which the shaft or spindle of a cog wheel may pass the said wheel being
provided with a small concentric recess for the reception of the circular die e which
is adjusted and secured to the said wheelf by means of a pin 2 and retained in
position by a thin latch f. Upon the shaft of the wheel is secured a ratchet
wheel having preferably twelve or sixteen teeth according to the number of
different positions which it is desired that the dies e should be adapted to assume.
With the teeth of this ratchet wheel a pawl operated by a spring k¹ is
constantly engaged in such a manner that the motion of the rack y or of the
pinions interposed between each pair of toothed wheels causes these wheels to
turn only one-twelfth or one-sixteenth of a complete revolution at a time and that
the dies are invariably stopped at the same point or in the same position during the
printing operation. Thus by pushing the rack g or by rotating any one of the
pinions (Figs. 1, 3, 4 and 5) as the case may be, all the dies e are simultaneously
set in motion upon the horizontal bar l.
When the printing is stopped and when the embroidering is to be proceeded with
the arms p along with the whole of the mechanism they support are turned back on
their pivots onto the eccentric shaft Q of the machine whereby the embroidering
needles Y are uncovered and enabled to perform their work upon the fabric L in the
ordinary way.
The ink or colour feed (Figs. 1 and 2) consists of a movable reservoir travelling over
the upper edge of the vertical wing or arm of the piece I supporting the dies through-
out the length of the said wing so as to supply each of the dies e with ink in an even
and uniform manner.
This movable reservoir or cup is arranged above a metal support d the two upper
arins of which carry each a roller m while the lower arm is provided with an anti-
friction roller . The rollers m roll over the upper edge of the piece while the
roiler n travels along the vertical surface of the said piece underneath the pinions
or the rack as the case may be.
Within the curve formed by the upper and lower arms of the said support d are
located the vertical inking rollers adapted to supply the dies e with ink or colour.
These rollers are mounted within a frame which is constantly pushed towards the
diese by means of a spiral spring & surrounding the screw spindle d². This screw
spindle is adapted to control the pressure of the rollers against the dies e by the
proper displacement of the frame i; this frame is supported by an adjusting screw
spindle held by the lower arm of the supporting frame d. The journals of the
roller nearest to the die e are permanently but loosely arranged within the frame i
while the journals of the rollers & farthest from the die e are capable of more or
less displacement in relation to the first roller by means of adjustable slides according
as it is desired to compress the rollers more or less tightly together and to obtain a
more or less liberal supply of ink or colour. The upper surface of each of the
rollers instead of being plane is bevelled or inclined in such a manner that the ink
as it issues from the reservoir or cup a through the orifice c may spread itself over the
contact surface of the said rollers b.
To control the flow of ink from the reservoir a the walls of which may be made of
metal glass or porcelain a pin or spindle a' is arranged laterally so that its point
obstructs more or less the horizontal orifice of the inking tube or nozzle c.
The said
pin or spindle a¹ is operated by means of a screw a turning within an opening
provided for its reception in the lower wall of the reservoir a, and having a suitable
screw thread formed internally.
Upon the rail or bar A of the frame C (Figs. 6 7 and 8) opposite the rail or bar
supporting the printing mechanisan, a support q' is arranged similar to that shown
at q the upright portion of which is also provided with an opening or eye r¹ wherein

page_text: the arm p² is pivotted, which arm supports a T-shaped piece upon which a flexible
pad e is placed opposite each of the dies e so as to form as many counter-dies as there
are dies opposite.
It will be understood that printing mechanism such as described is arranged both
upon the upper and lower rods or rails A of the curved supporting arms C of the
ordinary embroidering loom both of which are provided with needle holders.
The operation of this embroidering and printing machine producing printed
designs exactly concordant with those obtained by embroidering, is as follows:-
The arm p is first turned on its pivot in the bracket 9 so as to move the printing
mechanism into a vertical position in front of the needles Y held by the ordinary
holders P, that is parallel to the fabric L upon which the designs are to be carried
out and which is stretched in proper position upon the frame H.
In the same way opposite the needle holders P on the left bars or rails A (not
shown in Fig. 6) the arm p² is turned inward which carries the vertical wing and
also the pads or flexible counter-dies e¹.
When the carriages I rolling by means of the wheels F upon the rails or ways G
have carried back the curved arms C from the fabric L the ink reservoir a (Figs. 1
and 2) is operated by hand to slide along the upper edge of the vertical wing of
the T-iron and throughout the width of the machine whereby an even and uniform
supply of ink is fed to all the dies arranged upon the upper and lower rails or bars A
carried by the curved arms C which in the example shown are assumed to be situated
to the right of the ordinary embroidering frame.
When ink has thus been supplied to the dies e and the counter dies e¹ have been
turned against the said diese and brought near to the material to be printed upon
by the left carriage being moved towards the frame H, the right carriage is now
moved towards the fabric with greater or less speed so that the dies are brought in
contact with the material and imprint thereon the designs with which their printing
surface is provided. The carriages are then moved away from the material or
fabric L and the latter may then be shifted in the ordinary manner in accordance
with the set shape of an operating pantograph controlling the frame H which carries
the fabric L whereupon a fresh supply of ink having been conveyed to the dies e,
the carriages I are again brought near the fabric L and an impression of the same
design in the identical position is obtained in another part of the fabric.
When the designs formed upon the dies e (Fig. 4) are not symmetrical in relation
to the centre of the die and when it is desired to produce by means of the same die
a series of similar designs but inclined under a different angle to the vertical axis
of the stretched fabric the rack g Figs. 4 and 8, is pushed either by hand or by
machinery, say by a suitable lever; so as to impart motion to all the toothed wheels f
at once thereby also causing the dies forming part of the said wheels to rotate with
them. By such means the leaf e² (Fig. 4) may be inclined at a variable angle in
relation to the perpendicular passing through the centre of the die.
The operation of the dies e e² may also be effected by means of one of the pinions g
(Figs. 5 and 6) interposed between each pair of spur wheels upon which they
are to act.
Motion being thus imparted to the dies e e² ink is supplied to them in the manner
explained above, whereupon the fabric L is printed on as described its position being
changed or not as occasion requires.
.
When the printing is stopped the arms p and p² are turned back one onto the
eccentric shaft Q of each of the curved arms C (arm p carrying the printing
mechanism and the other arm p the counter dies). The needles Y and their
holders P are thus released and the embroidering may be proceeded with in the
ordinary way. The stitches that will thus be produced may be made exactly
concordant with the printed design obtained before, or conversely, the design may be
first embroidered upon the fabric L and a concordant printed design produced
subsequently.
For the purpose of imparting motion to the dies e round their centre we do not
confine ourselves to the use of the rack 9. Fig. 4 or the pinions 9 Fig 5 which may

page_text: be replaced if necessary by a shaft provided with a worm or screw gearing with worm
wheels surrounding the dies e the same as is previously described with regard to the
toothed wheels.
It has been stated that the ink reservoir a is suitably operated by hand so as to
travel in: succession along the upper edges of the T-shaped pieces arranged upon
the upper and lower bar A of the curved arm C respectively. This however may
also be done by machinery say by means of an endless chain or cord there being as
many ink reservoirs as there are bars or rails A.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we
claim is :-
1. In a printing and embroidering machine adapted to produce printed designs
concordant with embroidered designs the combination with well-known parts of the
Swiss embroidering frames or looms constructed according to Heilmann's system or
Rieter "Continuous Thread" system, of printing mechanism attached to horizontal
bars or rails supporting the needle holders of the embroidering machine such
mechanism being provided with circular dies adapted to move about their centres
and to receive ink or colour, when in a vertical position from a series of vertical feed
or inking rollers receiving their supply of ink from a reservoir placed above, such
rollers being capable of travelling throughout the length of the machine so as to
supply ink or colour to all the printing dies in succession substantially as and for the
purpose described and illustrated in the accompanying drawings.
2. In an embroidering and printing machine the employment of printing mechanism
comprising as many circular dies movable about their centres as there are needles Y
in the embroidering frame or loom the centre of each die corresponding to an extension
of each needle each die being embedded and held in the centre of a toothed wheel
such as mounted on a shaft. supported by one of the T-shaped bars such as
:secured to the arm p which is pivoted in a standard or bracket which in its turn
is attached to the ordinary horizontal bar A of the machine motion being imparted
to the whole series of dies either by means of a rack 9 or by a series of pinions g or
by worm gearing a ratchet wheel upon the shaft haud pawl k being adapted to limit
the play of the dies and to hold them firmly in place during the printing operation
the whole substantially as and for the purpose described and illustrated in the accom-
panying drawings.
3. In an embroidering and printing frame the application of an ink or colour feeding
device movable either by hand or by machinery and adapted to he brought opposite
each die in succession when the dies are vertical, by being caused to travel along
the upper edge of a wing of the T-shaped bar such as supporting the said dies
comprising a pair of vertical cylinders or rollers such as the upper surface of each
of which being inclined or curved and thereby adapted to receive and distribute ink
or colour from the reservoir a through a nozzle or passage such as c the supply of
ink being controlled by means of a closing or valve spindle a¹ the said rollers b
being capable of exercising more or less pressure against each other and also being
pressed more or less tightly against the dies e the frame i being for the purpose
operated by means of the screw spindle d² screwed through the framed which is
provided with travelling rollers such as m and antifriction or contact rollers such as n
whereby the parts of which the inking device is composed are supported and guided,
all substantially as and for the purpose described and illustrated in the accompanying
-drawings.
4. In an embroidering machine a revolvable pattern die such as e substantially as
-described.
Dated thin and d of T1000
W. P. THOMPSON & BOULT,
Agents for the Applicants.