IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MODE OF AND APPARATUS TO BE USED IN SEWING BY MACHINERY
Year: 1877

page_text: "
LETTERS PATENT to Henry Bland, of Luton, in the County of Bedford, Engineer,
for the Invention of IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MODE OF AND APPARATUS TO
BE USED IN SEWING BY MACHINERY."
Sealed the 21st. December 1877, and dated the 28th June 1877.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Henry Bland at the Office
of the Commissioners of Patents on the 28th June 1877.
HENRY BLAND, of Luton, in the County of Bedford, Engineer. "IMPROVEMENTS
IN THE MODE OF AND APPARATUS TO BE USED IN SEWING BY MACHINERY."
This Invention relates more especially to the manufacture of straw hats, bonnets,
and other articles formed by sewing together braids or plaits of straw or other
material, and has for its object an improved mode of sewing such braids or plaits,
and an improved combination or arrangement of the mechanism employed in such
operation, whereby I obviate many of the defects heretofore existing in and attendant
upon this class. of work, and the machinery employed therein.
The first part of my Invention consists of an improved mode of producing the
class of stitch known as the concealed stitch, and of improved mechanism to be
employed therefor, whereby I am enabled to obtain a greater variety of patterns
whilst performing the work from the centre outwards without damaging the
appearance of the work. I also simplify the mechanism by dispensing with the long
needle, and consequently the necessity for the needle guide.
↑
In carrying out this part of my Invention, I commence to stitch from the centre
and pass the point. of the needle, which works horizontally, or nearly so, at right
angles or thereabouts, through the body of the entering plait, thus preventing the
tendency of the needle to spring or deflect, the sewn portion being bent downwards
by. a roller or its equivalent as is well understood, in order to enable the point of
the needle after it has passed through, and whilst being guided or supported by the
entering plait, to penetrate the curved or bent portion of the sewn plait. The
stitch-securing mechanism, which is situate between the two plaits, now comes into

page_text: operation and completes the stitch. The work is then fed forward one stitch, and
any extra thread that may be required for securing or completing the stitch will be
laid between the two overlapping edges of the plaits, and will consequently be out
of sight, leaving on the under side of the work a single thread only, whilst the
stitches on the upper side may be wholly or partially concealed, according to the
amount of depression or bend produced in the sewn plait. I do not restrict myself
to any kind of stitch, but use by preference a single thread stitch produced by any
suitable or well-known looping device, and I prefer to employ for such purpose the
peculiar looper which I shall now proceed to describe. It consists of a short hori-
zontal rod or spindle receiving a rocking motion from the edge of a cam, which acts
upon a guide arm and roller. Hinged eccentrically to this rocking spindle is the
looper which is situate at one end of the said spindle into which it is hinged, and is
closed so as to be out of the way of the depressed portion of the plait by a second
guide arm and roller acted upon by an "adjustable cam surface, which enables the
angle or position of the looper to be regulated at will. As the spindle rocks back-
wards towards the needle (which may be about the length of the ordinary Willcox
and Gibbs needle) the looper opens and enters the loop of needle thread, and there
remains stationary until the needle, which works horizontally, or nearly so, beneath
the sewn portion of the plait, has been withdrawn, the work fed forward, and the
needle again inserted, thereby securing the loop held by the looper. The spindle
now rocks in the opposite direction so as to release the loop, and bring the
looper into position for entering the next loop, and so on. This arrangement being
small and compact admits of its, being. placed well up in the angle between the
plaits. The needle may be actuated by any suitable or well-known mechanism,
but I prefer to use the class of mechanism having a circular reciprocating motion
on centres in lieu of a rectilinear reciprocating motion. The feed mechanism
which I prefer to employ is described under the second head- of my Invention.
"
The second part of my Invention consists of an improved combination and arrange-
ment of the parts for producing the outside, or the Willcox and Gibbs stitch, as
described in the Specification of my Patent dated the 9th December 1874, No.
4241. I substitute for the sliding needle bar or needle attached to a vibrating
needle arm or lever, which arm is Vor U shaped towards the rear end, and vibrates
on fixed centres which are about on a level with the throat of the machine. The
driving point of this lever is situate at the apex of the V, and as near as practicable
to the needle, by which arrangement I reduce the wear and tear of the working
parts. The driving shaft is parallel to the needle arm or lever, and is situate
between the limbs of the forked part thereof. It may be driven in the usual
manner, and carries an eccentric or cam, which actuates a connecting rod coupled
centrally to the front portion of the needle lever at the apex of the V. The work
is guided under the needle by peculiar adjustable guides, the upper one of which
is hinged at one end to the outside guide, and is pressed down at its free end upon
the surface of the entering plait by a helical or other spring placed on the hinge, by
which means both the pressers as well as the separating plate heretofore employed
are dispensed with.
The feeder. which I prefer to use and which is applicable to the class of machine
described under the first part of my Invention consists of two fingers or surfaces
forming a nipper within which the material passes, and is held whilst being fed
forward, but is released again when the nippers make their return stroke. These
nippers vibrate on fixed centres placed either vertically or horizontally, and derive
their reciprocating motion as well as their opening and closing movement from
eccentrics or cams situate by preference near the looper end of the cam or driving
shaft.
The upper jaw of the feeding nippers is made adjustable towards or from the
work, so as to bite the entering plait alone, or the sewn portion, according to the
pattern of work to be produced, thereby simplifying the machine by dispensing with
the double feed heretofore employed. In order to obviate the wear and tear of
the serrated steel surfaces of the feeder, I cover in a peculiar manner the surfaces of

page_text: my improved feeder with india-rubber or other soft and elastic material, by
straining over such surfaces tubular-shaped pieces of rubber or solid pieces slotted
to receive the said surfaces, and I further secure the said rubber when stretched over
the feeding jaws by the application of an adjustable pressing screw or clamp thereto.
By this mode of applying or attaching the rubber, facility is afforded for ready
removal and replacement when worn.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said Henry Bland in the, Great Seal Patent Office on the 28th December
1877.
cr
HENRY BLAND, of Luton, in the County of Bedford, Engineer. IMPROVEMENTS
IN THE MODE OF AND APPARATUS TO BE USED IN SEWING BY MACHINERY."
My said Invention relates more especially to machinery or apparatus to be
employed in the manufacture of straw hats, bonnets, and other like articles forïned
by sewing together plaits or braids of straw or other material, and has for its object
an improved mode of disposing of such plaits or braids when stitching, and an
improved combination or arrangement of apparatus to be employed therefor,
whereby I obviate many of the defects heretofore existing in and attendant upon
this class of work and upon the machinery employed therein.
And in order that my said Invention may be fully understood I shall now
proceed more particularly to describe the same, and for that purpose shall refer to
the several Figures on the explanatory Sheets of Drawings hereunto annexed, the
same letters of reference indicating corresponding parts in all the corresponding
Figures.
Figure 1 (Sheet 1) of my Drawings is an end elevation with the front of the
cover removed, of what I call my "central shaping concealed stitch machine."
Figure 2 is a corresponding side view of the same, partly in section; and Figure 3
is a plan of the said machine corresponding to Figure 1.
By the use of this or an equivalent arrangement of machine I am enabled to sew
from the centre outwards with a concealed stitch. One of the essential features of
my said Invention is the placing of the stitch-securing mechanism in the space
between the entering plait and the sewn work, as will be clearly understood on
referring to the enlarged diagram, Figure 4, which illustrates the positions and
course of the sewn work a, and entering plait b. The stitch-securing mechanism
which may be of any convenient or suitable arrangement, is situate in the cavity or
space c, between the said entering plait and sewn work. The needle d is caused
first to penetrate the entering plait at about right angles thereto, and then to pass
through the curved, bent, or deflected portion of the sewn work at e, which is pro-
duced by the plunger f, the amount of depression of which is adjustable. The loop
of the needle thread after it has been passed through this portion of the work is
caught by the looper, and the stitch is secured and completed in any suitable or
well-known manner. The needle then retires, and the feeder draws the work
forward in readiness for the next stitch, and so on. From the fact of the needle
penetrating the entering plait at about a right angle thereto, the said plait acts as a
needle guide in piercing the curved or bent portion of the work, and thus dispenses

page_text: with the necessity for the usual needle guide hitherto found requisite in this class
of work. Moreover by reason of only one plait being bent or deflected, a shorter
needle can be used.
I do not confine myself to any kind of stitch, but I prefer to use a single thread
chain stitch, and whatever stitch may be employed the long stitch or superfluous
thread will lie between and be effectually concealed by the two plaits, whilst on the
under side of the work a single thread only will be seen.
I shall now proceed to describe the peculiar arrangement of. mechanism which I
employ for producing the description of work above described, reference being had
to Figures 1, 2, 3, and the various details herein-after explained. In these Figures a
is the bed plate of the machine which is intended to be secured to a work bench or
table; b is the driving shaft shown broken away, but which may be driven in the
usual manner, the arrows showing the direction of rotation. This shaft may carry
a hand wheel c for the starting of the machine, the face of such wheel forming a face
cam for actuating the looper, as shown in Figure 5. d is the needle lever, which
vibrates on the fixed centre e, and is actuated by a crank pin f in the disc g, the said
pin engaging in a slot in the upper end of the lever, as shown clearly in Figure 1.
The upper end of this lever carries the needle i, which I prefer to use, straight,, as
shown. is the looper, which is here shown as consisting of. a vibrating hook; bút
the peculiar arrangement of looper, which I shall herein-after describe, is the one
which I prefer to employ. The hooked looper is mounted on a rocking spindle_l,
actuated by an arm m, fitted with a roller which enters the cam groove. n in the
face of the hand wheel.
1
The feeder, which is of the four-motion class, is in the form of a nipper o, the jaws
of which, with their covering of elastic material, are more fully described in reference
to Sheet 2 of my Drawings. These jaws are attached to vertical limbs p, p, the one
sliding within the other, and vibrating on a fixed centre 7 below, as shown more
clearly in the detail, Figure 6. They receive their to-and-fro feeding and return
motions from the usual four-motion feed cams 7, 71, mounted on the driving shaft b.
The opening and closing of the upper jaw for the return and feed motion is effected
by the cam, whilst the cam r imparts the forward motion to the work, the feeder
being brought back by a spring, as shown at s. The whole of the feeding device is
free to be adjusted along the spindlo q by the hand lever t, in order to bring the
jaws towards or from the work, as herein-after explained, in reference to Sheet 2 of
my Drawings. The length of stitch may be adjusted in the 'usual manner by a stop
screw. The work is fed along the flat part of the short projecting arm of the
machine, and the sewn work is curved, bent, or deflected downwards as previously
described by the plunger w (shown in detail at Figure 7) actuated by the cam x (see
detail, Figure 8.) This plunger consists of a piece of steel or other hard metal of an
angular form fitted by adjustable screw nuts y, y, to the top of the limb, a spring
serving to keep the plunger well up to the said nuts. These plungers may be of
different patterns to suit different plaits, and are readily removed and replaced. The
said plunger is brought down upon the edge of the sewn work by the cam
(Figure 8) immediately the feed has traversed its distance, and thereby bends down
ör deflects the said work, as shown, in readiness for the next stitch, after which it
rises by the action of the spring 1 (see Figure 2) and the feeder again comes into
operation. The opening and closing of the feeder jaws by hand is effected by the
hand lever 2 and pin 3, the spiral spring 4 serving to keep the jaws closed: 5 is
the upper guide, and 6 is the guide for the entering plait, both of which are
adjustable, as shown. The entering plait passes up the curved slot or channel, in
the bottom of which lies the correspondingly shaped curved guide 6; it then passes
between the presser 7 (shown in detail at Figs. 9 and 10) and the needle throat,
and is firmly held or pressed against the needle throat by the spring 8 acting upon
the hand lever 9 of the
presser.
Figures 11, 12, and 13 illustrate my. peculiar arrangement of looper, which con-
sists of a liorizontal spindle a, free to rock within a sleeve or tubular collar b, fixed
by a set screw in the machine, in a position between the sewn work and the entering

page_text: plate, see Figure 11. A slightly enlarged head or shoulder is made upon the
looper end of the said rocking spindle so as to fit the end of the sleeve, and through
this spindle and head there is passed longitudinally and eccentrically the stem or
spindle c of the looper, which looper consists of a short pointed arm projecting
laterally from the outer end of the stem c so as to lie close alongside the needle
when it has penetrated the work. On the opposite end of the rocking spindle.a
there is secured a boss carrying a short arm and roller d, which roller works in the
groove n of the face cam shown at Figure 5, and imparts a rocking motion to the
said spindle a. This rocking motion serves to advance and open the looper so as
to cause it to engage with the loop of the needle thread; the said motions being
produced by the action of a fixed incline e on the end of the sleeve operating upon, a
short arm f, mounted on the end of the stem c of the looper, a spring serving to
keep the said arm in contact with the incline. By this peculiar, arrangement of
looper, facility is afforded for altering the timing and adjustment of the looper with
the needle.
T
I shall now proceed to describe my improved outside-stitch machine, reference.being
had to Sheet 2 of my Drawings.
Figure 1 represents a side elevation of the said machine for producing the outside
stitch referred to in the Specification of my Patent bearing date the 9th day of
December 1874; Figure 2 is a corresponding plan of the same; Figure 3 is a front
view corresponding to Figure 1; and Figures 4 and 5 are details of my improved
adjustable work guide, herein-after explained.
I substitute for the sliding needle bar a straight needle a, which is attached direct
to the end of the vibrating needle arm or lever b, which arm is or shaped in
plan, and vibrates on fixed centres c, c, at its rear end, which centres should be on a
level or thereabouts with the throat or needle hole of the machine. The said needle
should be vertical at about half stroke. The driving power of this lever operates
at a point d, situate at the inner apex of the <, and as near as practicable to the
needle, thereby reducing friction and wear and tear of the working parts. The
driving shaft e is parallel in plan to the centre line of the needle arm or lever, and
is situate between the limbs of the forked part thereof, as shown in Figure 2. It
may be driven in the usual or other manner, and carries an eccentric or cam, or,
which I prefer, a crank pin between two discs ff, for actuating a connecting rod g
coupled centrally to the needle lever by a spherical joint at d.
The peculiar feeder which I prefer to use, and which is applicable to the class of
machines described under the first part of my said Invention, consists of two fingers
or surfaces h, h¹, which I construct by preference of two thin steel tongues or plates
screwed to the jaws of two bars or limbs, herein-after described, such plates being
each covered in order to obtain a better hold, whilst obviating wear and tear of the
ordinary foed surfaces with tubular pieces of india-rubber or other soft and elastic
material strained over them, or, if preferred, solid pieces of rubber slotted to receive
the steel plates h, h', may be employed, an adjustable pressing screw or clamp being
also used for further securing the said elastic coverings and admitting of their ready
removal and replacement by the user when requisite. If desired, feeding surfaces
producing the shaping power, as herein-after explained, may be used without the
covering of rubber. The said covered plates constitute a nipper, within which the
material as it leaves the work arm i passes, and is held whilst being drawn or fed
forward, but is released again when the nipper makes its return stroke, as herein-
after explained.
The nipper has the front end of its upper jaw curved or bent, or turned up
slightly, as shown at h in Figure 1, for the purpose to be herein-after explained,
aud vibrates to and fro on fixed centres h, k, which may be disposed either
horizontally, as shown in my Drawings, or vertically, if preferred, and derives its
reciprocating feed and return motions from the ordinary feed actuating eccentric of
the well known Willcox and Gibbs' arrangement, or by any other suitable and well-
known device. The lower limb of the feeder vibrates vertically on the rocking
centre m in the top of the rocking piece n, which works on the fixed centres / at its

page_text: lower end, the said limb having an eccentric, strap, ot ring o at its right-hand end,
within which works the ordinary Willcox and Gibbs' feed actuating eccentric p.
The left-hand end of the lower limb is extended, as shown, and carries a hori-
This limb is
zontal pin q, upon which vibrates the upper limb of the feeder.
extended across the bed plate of the machine towards the right hand of the
operator, who is seated at the front end of the machine, and it is held down by the
vertical rods and spring t, the height of the upper limb being adjustable by means
of the adjusting nuts on the rod at u. The feeding action of this device is as
follows: When the eccentric elevates that end of the lower lim which is nearest
the needle, the opposite extremity is correspondingly depressed, thereby simulta-
neously lowering the upper jaw h of the nipper, whilst the lower jaw ¹ is raised,
thus causing the two jaws to meet and grip the material. In this condition the
further movement of the eccentric causes the closed jaws to move horizontally, or
As the eccentric
nearly so, and draw the work along to the extent of one stitch.
returns it first opens the jaws by causing the lower limb with its jaw to descend,
whilst at the same time the upper limb with the upper jaw is lifted slightly,
thereby releasing the work and leaving the two jaws free to advance again for the
next feed of the material. The rod s is free to vibrate or rock sufficiently
on a transverse pin at its lower end to allow of the to-and-fro motion of the
feeder.
By raising or lowering the free end of the upper limb by means of the
adjusting nuts u, the jaws may be caused to remain closed during a greater
or less portion of the stroke, and hence the length of stitch may be varied as
required. The upper limb is free to be adjusted along the spindle g by an
adjusting lever, as shown, applied to the feeding device on Sheet 1 of my Drawings
at t, or by any other suitable contrivance which I have not considered it necessary
to show. This adjustment of the upper limb with its turned-up jaw h, before
referred to, affords facility for producing various in the straw-plait work, as
when the upper jaw is drawn away from the needle it only grips the entering
plait, but when slightly advanced its turned-up end partially grips the sewn portion,
and when fully advanced it grips both the entering plait and the sewn work equally.
Of course, the usual or other suitable tension appliance will be used with this
imachine, as is well understood.
The work is guided under the needle by a peculiar arrangement of adjustable top
or front guide, illustrated at Figures 4 and 5; w is my peculiar top guide, which is
secured to a horizontal spindle x passing through a sleeve or tubular boss y in the
bed of the machine, and having a spiral spring z on the inner end of it, which spring
tends to turn the spindle and thereby maintain the said guide w firmly down upon
the entering plait, which pressure may be increased at will by simply turning the
sleeve y more or less, and fixing it again by the set screw 1. The position of the
guide w may also be varied towards or from the needle by moving the sleeve in or
out as required; 2 is the usual guide for the entering plait.
The machine above described, although more especially designed for straw-plait
work may be used for glove stitching, or other like purposes, and from the fact of
the working parts being removed away from the needle, and the absence of
pressers above the work, the liablity or risk of soiling the work by oil is entirely
obviated.
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of my said Inven
tion and the manner in which the same is or may be used or carried into effect, I
would observe in conclusion that I do not claim generally the covering of the
feeding surfaces with clastic material, neither do I claim generally the use of a
Feeder in the form of nippers, but what I consider to be novel and original and
therefore claim as the Invention secured to me by the herein-before in part recited
Letters Patent is :-
First. The constructing and arranging of a sewing machine, more especially
intended for straw-plait work, in such a manner that the looper or stitch-securing
instrument shall operate or be contained in the space between the sewn work and

page_text: the entering plait, substantially as and for the purpose herein-before described, and
illustrated on Sheet 1 of my Drawings.
Secondly. In a sewing machine for straw-plait work, I claim the bending separately
of the sewn work by a plunger or its equivalent, as herein-before described.
Thirdly. In a sewing machine for producing the concealed stitch in straw-plait
work, I claim the pressing separately of the entering plait by a presser, substantially
as herein-before described.
Fourthly. The so arranging or disposing of the sewn work and entering plait in
a concealed stitch sewing machine, that the needle shall penetrate the entering plait
at or about a right angle to such plait, substantially in the manner and for the
purpose herein-before described, and illustrated on Sheet 1 of my Drawings.
Fifthly. The peculiar construction and arrangement of looper as herein-before
described, and illustrated by Figures 11, 12, and 13 on Sheet 1 of the Drawings.
Sixthly. The application and use in a nipper feeder of upper and lower jaws
arranged to operate together, substantially in the manner and for the purpose herein-
before described, and illustrated by my Drawings.
Seventhly. The application and use in the feeding device of an upper or a lower
jaw, or of two jaws (covered or not with rubber), made adjustable towards or from
the work, and having the end or ends curved or bent, substantially as and for the
purpose herein-before described, and illustrated by my Drawings.
Eighthly. The peculiar mode of applying and securing a covering of india-rubber
or other suitable elastic material to the jaws of the feeders, whereby greater facility
is afforded for the removal and replacement of such covering, as herein-before
described, and illustrated by my Drawings.
Ninthly. The peculiar construction and arrangement of adjustable upper work
guide w, substantially as herein-before described, and illustrated on Sheet 2 of my
Drawings.
Tenthly. The application and use to and in a sewing machine of the peculiar
arrangement of forked needle lever working on a fulcrum at one end, and having
the power applied direct thereto at or near the end next the needle, as herein-before
described, and illustrated on Sheet 2 of my Drawings.
In witness whereof, I, the said Henry Bland, have hereunto set my hand
and seal, this Twenty-eighth day of December, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and seventy-seven.
Witness,
EDWIN P. ALEXANDER,
Consulting Engineer and Patent Agent,
14, Southampton Buildings,
Chancery Lane,
W.C.
HENRY BLAND. (L.S.)