IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES
Year: 1862

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Alfred Vincent Newton, of the Office for Patents,
66, Chancery Lane, in the County of Middlesex, Mechanical Draughts-
man, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES." -A
communication from abroad by James Alford House and Henry Alonzo
House, both of Brooklyn, King's County, New York State, United States
of America.
Sealed the 28th April 1868, and dated the 25th November 1862.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Alfred Vincent Newton
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on
the 25th November 1862.
I, ALFRED VINCENT NEWTON, of the Office for Patents, 66, Chancery Lane,
in the County of Middlesex, Mechanical Draughtsman, do hereby declare the
nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES," to be
as follows:-
This Invention relates to the forming of a button-hole or over-cast stitch
by means of an eye-pointed needle which works up from below the table and
pierces the fabric, in combination with a finger or thread carrier also working
up from below the fabric, the entire stitching mechanism being mounted
upon a disc or independent frame capable of being rotated automatically at
proper intervals without interfering with the operation of stitching, in order to
sew around curves, such as the eyes of button-holes. A strong rigid frame

page_text: is provided to carry the mechanism. Upon this frame a sliding frame is
mounted which traverses back and forth in a rectilinear path, and carries a
bed plate or table upon which the material to be sewn rests, as well as a
presser lever to hold the material down upon the bed plate. The bed plate
and lever are both hinged to one end of the sliding frame, but independently
of each other, in order that they may be removed to give access to the
machinery. A hole is also made in the centre of each, and through this opening
the needles work. A driving shaft works in suitable bearings in the frame and
actuates the driving mechanism. The bed plate and moveable.frame.derive their
movements from this shaft. A bracket secured to the moveable frame carries
a nut traversing on a screw arranged horizontally and longitudinally beneath
the table, and turning in bearings in the frame.
An intermittent rotating
movement is periodically imparted- to the screw. by means of a bevil pinion
on one of its ends. This screw gears alternately and at intervals into two
bevil wheels secured upon the same collar (one upon each side of the pinion),
which collar slides freely end wise upon the driving shaft. The bevil wheels
have teeth upon one half only of their faces, and are at such a distance. apart
that either.or both of them may be disengaged at once so that the. screw may
turn in either direction, or be at rest, as required. The jaws of: one end of a
curved and forked shifting lever (pivoted at one end to the frame. so as to
turn freely in a horizontal direction) engage in a slot in the collar of the bevil
half gears, and slide them to and fro at the proper moment. A bearing is
formed in the centre of the stand or frame, upon which the disc before-
mentioned as carrying the stitching mechanism is supported and turned.
This disc for convenience of construction is composed of two sections, one
resting upon the other, and both securely fastened together... The lower
section of the disc carries the actuating mechanism, while the stitching
mechanism proper
is carried by the upper section. The centre of this disc is
hollow and forms a tube through which a needle bar, arm, or mandril
reciprocates in the direction of its length. The mandril. is driven by an
eccentric and pitman from the driving shaft: The disc turns freely in its
bearings in a horizontal plane. It is actuated by a pusher driven-by a swivel:
exentric on the driving shaft. The pusher is pivoted to a ratchet wheel
which turns loosely upon the disc during the forward stroke of the pusher,
but when the movement is reversed a spring pawl upon the disc engages the
teeth of the ratchet, thus causing the disc to rotate: The spring pawl is:
held out of contact with the ratchet when the sliding frame is moving by:
means of a guide bar upon the frame, but as soon as the pawl slips past the
end of the bar the disc begins to rotate. One of the guide bars is placed at..

page_text: each end of the sliding frame. One is fixed, but the other is rendered
adjustable in order to vary. the: size of the hole worked. A scale is
marked upon the silding table, and an index attached to the moveable
guide bar serves accurately to measure the hole to be worked. The vibrating
needle arm which plays through the centre of the rotating disc has on its
upper end a needle carrier or shank bent into a U-shape, so that when a
needle is inserted into the shank it. shall be parallel to its stem. This needle
plays through a perforation in a stitching plate and through the opening
in the bed plate and presser foot herein-before mentioned. A perforated
tension post is also secured upon this stitching plate to prevent the kinking
of the needle thread and its entanglement with the lower thread carrier.
A curved finger. or thread carrier is secured on the end of an inclined shaft
which rocks in open bearings on the rotary disc: This shaft is held in place
by a plate spring, and may readily be removed in order to insert a thread into
the eyes of the carrier. The shaft is rocked by means of a bent arm which
plays in a groove on a sector-shaped cam pivoted upon the disc. This cam
derives its movements from the needle mandril with which it is connected by
means of a link. The needle arm is connected with its pitman by a swivelling
joint, so that it may, turn freely on its axis. The arrangement is such that
while the finger or thread carrier derives its rocking movement from the
needle: mandril, the latter derives its turning movement from the carrier, so
that their relative position remains unchanged at all times. Spool cases are
inserted into holes in the disc and held in place by springs. The cases are
cup-shaped, and have stems in their bottoms, upon which an ordinary
spool may be placed. Suitable tension apparatus is also mounted upon the
disc.
..
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Alfred Vincent Newton in the Great Seal Patent Office
on the 25th May 1863.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, ALFRED
VINCENT NEWTON, of the Office for Patents, 66, Chancery Lane, in the County.
of Middlesex, Mechanical Draughtsman, send greeting.
:: WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-fifth day of November, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight. hundred and sixty-two, in the twenty-sixth year of Her
reign, did, for. Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me,

page_text: the said Alfred Vincent Newton, Her special license that I, the said Alfred
Vincent Newton, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others.
as I, the said Alfred Vincent Newton, my executors, administrators, and
assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and
at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully
might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention
for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES," being a communication from
abroad, upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said Alfred Vincent
Newton, by an instrument in writing under my hand and seal, should par-
ticularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what
manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the
Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately
after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Alfred Vincent Newton, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to
be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained-in and by the
following statement, reference being had to the Drawings hereunto annexed,
and to the letters and figures marked thereon (that is to say):-
This Invention, as communicated to me by my foreign correspondent,
although applicable to most descriptions of sewing machines, yet relates more
especially to those machines which are employed in uniting or stitching
together the edges of a fabric, and has for its object the production of a
machine which shall be capable of working a button-hole or other similar
article in a practically successful manner by automatic means.
viz.
The Invention may be said to consist of the following improvements,
I. In forming a button-hole or over-cast stitch by means of an eye-pointed
needle which works up from below the table and pierces the fabric, in combi-
nation with a finger or thread carrier also working up from below the fabric,
substantially in the manner herein-after described.
II. In mounting the entire stitching mechanism upon a disc or independent
frame, capable of being rotated automatically at proper intervals without inter-
fering with the operation of stitching, in order to sew around curves, such as
the eyes of button-holes.
III. In combining a bed plate to which the fabric is attached, having a
periodical intermittent progressive movement in a rectilinear path with a disc
(carrying the sewing mechanism), and having a periodical intermittent rotary
motion, the co-operation being such that the respective movements alternately

page_text: take place at proper intervals, but one is always at rest while the other is in
motion, whereby both sides and the eye of a button-hole may be worked
without stopping the machine.
IV. In so combining the mechanism of a sewing machine that the whole of
the moving parts thereof shall be situated below the table or bed plate upon
which the material to be operated upon rests, whereby great facility is given
to the operator for manipulating the work.
V. In the combination of an eye-pointed needle with a shank so bent or
curved that the needle shall move parallel to the shank and carry its loop
through the fabric while the shank vibrates near the edge thereof, whereby
the needle can be driven from below and yet work over the edge of the
cloth.
VI. In a curved finger or thread carrier mounted on an inclined axis under-
neath the bed plate, and working up through an opening in the same over
the edge of the cloth, to take up or enter the loop of the needle thread above
the cloth.
VII. In mounting the curved thread carrier on the end of an inclined shaft
turning in open bearings and held down by a spring, whereby the carrier may
be readily removed to thread it.
VIII. In combining the cam which actuates the thread carrier with the
needle mandril in such manner that the thread carrier shall derive its stitching
movements from the needle mandril while the latter is rotated on its axis by
the cam.
IX. In combining with a rotating disc carrying the stitching mechanism a
perforated plate upon which the fabric rests and through which the needles
play.
X. In combining a tension post with the perforated stitching plate through
which the needle and looper play, in such manner as to prevent the needle
thread from being caught by the looper as they pass each other.
XI. In combining one or more spool carriers with a rotating and traversing
disc carrying the stitching mechanism, in such manner that the spools always
maintain their relative positions to each other and to the needle and thread
carrier.
XII. In a tension apparatus, whereby a pearl may be made at any point of
the button-hole desired.
XIII. In a mechanism for imparting to the bed plate a periodical inter-
mittent progressive movement for the purpose of feeding the fabric to the
needles in a proper manner.
XIV. In combining a friction apparatus with the rotating disc which

page_text: carries the sewing mechanism, in order to control its rotating movements more
perfectly.
XV. In combining a fixed and an adjustable guide upon the sliding frame,
to regulate with precision the turning movement of the disc to work the eye of
a button-hole.
XVI. In combining with suitable guides upon the sliding frame a detent on
the rotating disc, for the purpose of throwing the 'disc into or out of gear with
the mechanism which turns it.
XVII. In combining with the rotating disc an automatic shifting lever
to stop or reverse the feed motion at the proper moment when working the
button-hole.
XVIII. In a combination of mechanism for imparting an intermittent
rotary motion to the disc when sewing round the eye of a button-hole.
XIX. In combining a pin or stop on the rotating disc with a groove' on the
bed plate (which has a slight lateral play in its bearings), for the purpose of
drawing in the fabric to the needle when working the eye of the button-hole.
XX. In forming the rotating disc in two sections capable of being readily
connected or disconnected, one section carrying the stitching mechanism.
proper, the other the driving mechanism.
XXI. In combining the tension posts with the disc in such manner that
they shall be carried underneath the same.
XXII. In a thimble or device for protecting the needles, for holding down -
the cloth, and for guiding a cord to be worked in while making the stitch.
In order to attain the object of this Invention a strong rigid frame is pro-
vided to carry the mechanism, and upon this frame a sliding frame is mounted
which traverses back and forth in a rectilinear path, and carries a bed plate
or table upon which the material to be sewn rests, as well as a presser lever
to hold the material down upon the bed plate. The bed plate and lever are
both hinged to one end of the sliding frame, but independently of each other,
in order that they may be removed to give access to the machinery. A hole
is also made in the centre of each, and through this opening the needles work.
A driving shaft works in suitable bearings in the frame, and actuates the
driving mechanism. The bed plate and moveable frame derive their move-
ments from this shaft. A bracket secured to the moveable frame carries a
nut traversing on a screw arranged horizontally and longitudinally beneath
the table, and turning in bearings in the frame. An intermittent rotating
movement is periodically imparted to the screw by means of a bevil pinion on
one of its ends. This screw gears alternately and at intervals into two bevil
wheels secured upon the same collar (one upon each side of the pinion),

page_text: which collar slides freely endwise upon the driving shaft. The bevil wheels
have teeth upon one half only of their faces, and are at such a distance
apart, that either or both of them may be disengaged at once so that the
screw may turn in either direction, or be at rest, as required. The jaws
of one end of a curved and forked shifting lever (pivoted at one end to
the frame so as to turn freely in a horizontal direction) engage in a slot
in the collar of the bevil wheels, and slide them to and fro at the proper
moment in a manner herein-after more fully described. A bearing is
formed in the centre of the stand or frame, upon which a disc is supported
and turned. This disc for convenience of construction is composed of two
sections, one resting upon the other, and both securely fastened together. The
lower section of the disc carries the actuating mechanism, while the stitching
mechanism proper is carried by the upper section. The centre of this dise
is hollow, and forms a tube through which a needle bar, arm, or, mandril
reciprocates in the direction of its length. The mandril is driven by an
excentric and coupling rod from the driving. shaft. The disc turns freely in its
bearings in a horizontal plane. It is actuated by a pusher. driven by a swivel
excentric on the driving shaft. The pusher is pivoted, to a ratchet.wheel;
which turns loosely upon the disc during the forward stroke of the pusher,
but when the movement is reversed a spring pawl upon the disc engages the
teeth of the ratchet, thus causing the.disc to rotate. The spring. pawl is held
out of contact with the ratchet when the sliding. frame is moving by means of
a guide bar upon-the-frame, but as soon as the pawl slips past the end of the
bar the disc begins to rotate. One of the guide bars is placed at each end of
the sliding frame. One is fixed, but the other is rendered adjustable in order
to vary the size of the hole worked. A.scale is marked upon the sliding table,
and an index attached to the moveable guide bar serves accurately to measure
the hole to be worked. The vibrating needle arm which plays through the
centre of the rotating disc has on its upper end a needle carrier or shank.bent
into a U-shape, so that when a needle is inserted into the shank it shall be
parallel to its stem. This needle plays through a perforation in a stitching.
plate and through the opening in the bed plate and presser foot herein-before
mentioned. A perforated tension post is also secured upon this stitching
plate to prevent the kinking of the needle thread and its entanglement with
the lower thread carrier. A curved finger or thread carrier is secured on the
end of an inclined shaft which rocks in open bearings on. the rotary disc...
This shaft is held in place by a plate spring, and may. readily be removed in
order to insert a thread into the eyes of the carrier. The shaft is rocked by.
means of a bent arm which plays in a groove on a sector-shaped cam pivoted

page_text: upon the disc. This cam derives its movements from the needle mandril with
which it is connected by means of a link. The needle arm is connected with
its pitman by a swivelling joint, so that it may turn freely on its axis. The
arrangement is such that while the finger or thread carrier derives its rocking
movement from the needle mandril, the latter derives its turning movement
from the carrier, so that their relative position remains unchanged at all times.
Spool cases are inserted into holes in the disc, and held in place by springs.
The cases are cup-shaped, and have stems in their bottoms, upon which an
ordinary spool may be placed. Suitable tension apparatus is also mounted
upon the disc.
In the accompanying Drawing Fig. 1 represents a view in perspective
of a machine for working button-holes, embracing the above enumerated
improvements. Fig. 2 represents a similar view of a portion of the same,
the bed plate and pressing lever being thrown back, and the thimble which
covers the needle removed in order to show more clearly the arrange-
ment of the stitching mechanism. Fig. 3 represents a plan or view of the
bottom of the machine inverted, a portion of the frame being broken
away at the line 0, 0, of Fig. 4 to show the mechanism more clearly.
Fig. 4 represents a vertical longitudinal section through the same at the
line a, a, of Fig. 3; the two latter Figures are on a larger scale than
the others. Fig. 5 represents a view in perspective of the curved finger or
looper which carries the lower thread, and of the cam which operates it
detached from the rest of the mechanism. Fig. 6 represents a vertical axial
section through one of the spool carriers at the line 1, 2, of Fig. 7. Fig. 7
represents a horizontal transverse section through the same, looking upward at
the line y, y, Fig. 6. Fig. 8 represents a view in perspective of the needle
and finger, showing their relative position at the commencement of the
operation of forming a stitch. Fig. 9 represents a similar view of the same,
showing their relative position at the moment when the vertical needle has
passed the cloth, and is about to commence its upward movement. Fig. 10
represents a view in perspective of a piece of cloth with the stitches loosely
formed therein in order to show more clearly the method of forming the
stitch; and Fig. 11 represents a view of a piece of cloth with a button-hole
worked therein.
b
A is a strong frame of cast iron; a sliding frame or table B rests upon this
frame, and is provided with grooves 6 upon its under side, which traverse on
pins a projecting from the upper part of the main fram A, as shown in Fig. 3,
thus enabling the sliding fráme to traverse horizontally and longitudinally
upon its supports. A bed plate C is pivoted to one end of the sliding frame

page_text: in such manner as to allow it a slight degree of lateral play on its binges c.
A pin b' upon the plate fits into a hole a¹ upon the sliding frame, and thus
holds it steadily when lowered upon the sliding frame. A curved and slotted
arm, lever, or presser foot D is hinged to the sliding frame at the same point
as the bed plate C, and in like manner, which allows of their being raised both
together or separately, as desired. A slot or opening C³, shaped like a key-
hole or a button-hole, is made in the centre of the plate and presser foot,
through which opening the needle and finger n play. The material to be
sewn is clamped between the bed plate C and presser foot D, which are held
in a fixed position relatively to each other by means of pins 62 on the plate
which fit into holes in the under side of the presser foot. A bracket B¹
extends down from one side of the sliding frame B, and has secured upon it a
nut B (see Fig. 3) provided with a female screw. This nut works upon a
male screw E turning in bearings e upon the main frame, by which means
the sliding frame B is traversed. A horizontal driving shaft F is mounted
upon suitable bearings upon one end of the main frame beneath the table.
A sleeve E' is mounted upon this shaft near one end thereof in such manner
as to turn with the shaft, and yet be capable of sliding freely thereon in the
direction of its length. This sleeve carries two bevil wheels e³, e³, facing each
other fixed at an invariable distance apart, and having teeth on one half of
their peripheries only. A bevil pinion e¹ is mounted upon one end of the
rotating screw E. The bevil wheels e², e³, revolve one on each side of the
pinion e', and their relative position is such that either may be in gear with
the pinion (but not both at once), or both may be disengaged from it, at
which time the screw and sliding table would be at rest. By this means an
intermittent progressive movement either backwards, or forwards may be
imparted to the sliding table B. The engagement and disengagement of the
partially cogged pinions is effected automatically in a manner hereafter more
fully described. The details of this arrangement are clearly shown in Figs. 3
and 4 of the Drawings.
In the centre of the frame a hollow pillar or bearing cylinder 'A' is erected,
and forms the main bearing for the sewing mechanism proper; this mechanism
is contained within a frame, which for convenience of construction and other
reasons I prefer to make in the form of two discs G, G¹, arranged horizontally
one above the other with an interval between them, but securely constructed,
and rotating upon the main bearing A¹. Both of the discs are perforated ver-
tically, so as to leave an opening through which a needle mandril K plays. The
lower disc G' has a downward projecting rim or flange g¹, which encloses a
ratchet wheel H, turning freely upon the main bearing, and independently of

page_text: the disc. An alternate vibratory movement around its axis is imparted to
this ratchet wheel by means of a flat curved bar or hand h pivoted to its
under side by a screw h¹. A swivelling excentic H', on the driving shaft F,
imparts a reciprocating motion to the hand h by means of the rod h² pivoted
at one end to the excentric and at the other to the hand, as shown in Fig. 3.
The length of the stroke of the ratchet wheel may be varied by inserting the
pivot h¹ into one of a series of holes in the ratchet plate at varying distances
from the centre, or in some other suitable manner well known to mechanics:
A horizontal arm or bar I is rigidly secured to the lower disc G; a spring
pawl h³ is pivoted to the under side of this disc, and lies below and parallel
to the stop bar I. Upon each end of the sliding frame B is a curved bracket
or guide bar I', I'; one of these bars is rigidly secured to the frame, but the
other slides in a horizontal groove under the sliding frame.. The arrangement
is such, that when the outer end of the spring pawl bears against either one of
the guide bars it is held out of contact with the ratchet wheel H, which then
plays freely back and forth without turning the disc, but as soon as the end
of the spring pawl escapes from the guide bar its other end engages the teeth
of the ratchet wheel, and the disc is thereby, caused to turn with an inter-
mittent rotating movement. The moveable guide I is adjusted by a set
screw J.on the end of the sliding frame; a scale is marked on a projection J¹
at one end of the frame, and the distance which the guide moves is accurately
measured by means of an index j which projects. through a slot in the table,
the size to which, the button-holes are.to.be worked can thus be accurately
adjusted. The needle mandril K is'driven by means of an excentric K¹ on
the driving shaft revolving in a yoker K² on an elbow lever K³, turning on a
pivot K on the frame. The connection between the lever K³ and mandril is
formed by means of a swivelling ball-and-socket joint K³, which permits the
needle to rotate freely on its axis without impeding its longitudinal vibrations.
A needle bar. L is mounted upon the upper end of the mandril; this bar is
vertical, and bent over in an arched form at the top, so that the two parts
shall be parallel. An eye is formed near its point through which a thread
may be passed; the needle bar can readily be removed from or adjusted in
the mandril when. required. A straight needle 7, with three eyes near its
point, is inserted into the end of the needle bar in such manner that it may
readily. be removed or replaced at any time.. The needle bar plays through
an opening in a stitching plate M, secured to and projecting above the face of
the upper disc G; a tension post m extends upwards from this plate parallel
to the needle bar, and is provided: with a series of holes to regulate the tension
of the needle thread.

page_text: The needle and tension post may be protected by means of a tube or
thimble M (Fig. 1), which may also serve to hold down the edge of the cloth,
and to guide a cord to be covered by the stitching. A curved finger or thread
carrier n, having an eye near its point and another near its heel, is secured to
the end of a slightly inclined shaft N, turning in suitable bearings on the
disc G. This shaft has a rocking movement imparted to it by means of a
bent arm n¹ (Fig. 5) on its hinder end, which arm works in a slot o on a
quadrant-shaped cam O, pivoted to the lower disc G'. This cam is connected
with the needle arm K by a link o', and is operated by it. The bearings of
the rock shaft N are so constructed that it can be lifted out of place at any
time. It is held in place when at work by a spring n³, pivoted on the disc G,
and turning freely in a horizontal direction. The spools are carried in spool.
cases P, P, which fit into holes in the disc G, and are held in place by
springs p, which encircle the cases. The spools turn on rods p¹ in the cases,
which have slots in them through which the thread passes. Tension rods
R, R¹, are also secured to the under side of this disc, and have holes in them
through which the threads are passed. A retaining spring S is also placed
upon the disc. This spring has a slot s in one end, in which a set screw s'
works; by this means the spring can be moved either longitudinally or
laterally in a horizontal plane. The disc is pressed between plate springs T,
the ends of which are secured to the frame A, and in this instance the
screws a, which secure the plate springs to the frame, also form the pins on
which the frame B slides. The sliding frame, as before remarked, is traversed
backwards and forwards by means of the bevil wheels e, e³, which act alter-
nately upon the bevil pinion e¹ on the end of the screw, and are alternately
thrown into and out of gear in the following manner:-The collar E' slides
freely on the driving shaft F, and is actuated by the arm u of a forked lever U,
which arm enters an annular groove e in the collar. This lever U is curved,
so as partially to encircle the disc G¹; and extends entirely. across the machine
and turns upon a pivot u³ on the frame. The other arm u¹ of this lever is
also curved, and partly encircles the disc G¹. A screw u³ is inserted into the
end of this arm; upon the opposite arm a projection u' is also made. Upon
one side of the disc is a cam plane g³, corresponding with the set screw us on
the short arm u', while on the opposite side is a corresponding notch 9%.
When the disc is rotated the cam planė strikes against the screw u³, and
thereby rocks the forked lever U, and slides the bevil wheels e2, e3; endwise on
the shaft F, thus throwing one into and the other out of gear, or holding both
out of gear at once. The operation of the machine is as follows:-The parts
are supposed to be in the position shown in Fig. 1 of the Drawings, that is, just

page_text: beginning to operate on the straight side of the button-hole. A button-hole
having been cut in the cloth it is placed over the hole C¹ upon the bed
plate C, and clamped between it and the presser foot D. The needle and
finger n having been properly threaded, and the tensions adjusted, the
machine is ready for operation. The finger thread is carried by the spool P ;
it passes through a slot in the spool, and through a hole in the bottom of the
tension rod R¹ entering it in the centre, in order to permit the rod to be
turned without entangling the thread; it then passes partially around the rod,
and through an opening r in the disc G, and through the tension spring S;
thence it passes through the eye in the heel of the bent finger, and along the
inside of the finger to its point, and through the eye in the point to the other
side again. The needle thread passes from the spool P¹ around another tension
rod R, in a manner similar to that of the other thread, then through the
opening in the disc, and through the eye of the thread retainer m, thence
through the eye of the shank to the side on which the finger comes on its up
stroke, and down through the upper eye of the needle to the other eye, thence
to the second eye, and back again through the third and lowest eye. By this
mode of threading, the needle and finger are prevented from catching in each
other's threads as they pass. If it be desired to lay in a cord with the
stitching, one can be brought down from the spool d' on the presser lever D.
The needle, may be covered by a tube or thimble M', which prevents anything
from catching in it, and also serves both as an additional means of holding the
cloth down upon the stitching plate, and as a guide for the cord. The finger n
can readily be removed in order to thread it. Rotary motion may be imparted
to the driving shaft F in any suitable manner. As the shaft revolves, the
excentric K¹ acts upon the yoke K³, and vibrates the needle arm K through
the rod Ks and rock shaft K*. A semi-rotative or rocking movement is.
imparted to the finger n by means of its bent arm n¹ playing in the slot o in
the vibrating cam O, which is connected to and operated simultaneously with
the needle arm K by the link o¹.
The stitch is formed in the following manner :-As the straight needle
descends it passes through a loop of the finger thread, and then, through
the cloth, the loop of finger thread being tightened at the same time by the
backward and downward movement of the finger; after passing through the
cloth the needle descends on the inner side of the finger (which is all
the time retreating,) until its point is about of an inch below the front of
the finger, to allow sufficient loopage, it then begins to ascend, the loop opening
as it rises, and the finger passes through the loop thus formed, and up through
the slit, and over the edge of the fabric. When the movement is reversed

page_text: the needle again passes through the finger thread, which is again drawn
tight. Owing to the inclnation of the shaft N, and the relative positions of
the needle and finger, their threads are alternately thrown partially around
each other, thus producing an interlocked stitch. This is clearly shown in
Figs. 8 and 9, the former representing the relative position of the needle and
finger at the beginning of their stroke, and the latter their position at the
termination of the downward stroke of the needle. Fig. 10. shows a loose
stitch exhibiting its formation more clearly, and Fig. 11 a button-hole com-
pleted. In all the Figures the blue lines represent the needle thread, and
the red lines the finger thread.
The rectilinear traversing movement is imparted to the bed plate C and
moveable frame B in the following manner:-The relative arrangement of
the cam plane g³ on the disc G¹, and the pin u³ on the forked lever U, is
such that the bevil wheel is held in contact with the pinion e¹ on the end
of the screw E, which moves the frame, thus giving it an intermittent recti-
linear forward movement. The turning movement of the sewing apparatus is
effected by means of the pusher h³. This pusher is operated by the swivel
excentric H on the driving shaft, and acts upon a hand h pivoted to the
under side of the ratchet wheel H. The ratchet wheel turns on the forward
stroke of the pusher, and when its movement is reversed the spring pawl h³
engages the teeth of the ratchet wheel, and turns the disc around. A
series of holes are cut in the ratchet wheel at varying distances from the
centre, into which holes the pivot of the hand h screws in order to vary the
distance through which the disc is turned at each stroke of the pusher.
When a half revolution of the disc has been effected, the stop bar I strikes
on of the guide bars I, I, and releases the pawl from the ratchet wheel,
at the same moment the cam plane g³ strikes the forked lever U, and throws,
the other. bevil wheel e² into gear with the pinion e' on the screw E, thus
reversing the movement of the bed plate, and causing the needle traverse,
down the other side of the button-hole. The length of the stitch may be
adjusted by using traversing screws of different pitches. It will be observed,
that by arranging the stitching mechanism entirely below the table the
surface of the table is left unobstructed, whereby the handling and turning.
of the work is greatly facilitated, moreover the operator has at all times an
unobstructed view of the work, and can thus instantly detect any imperfection.
or incorrectness in the stitching. In Fig. 2 a device is shown for causing
the eye of the button-hole to be properly drawn to the needle, but experience
has demonstrated that the work can generally be successfully done without
the use of this apparatus. Upon the under side of the bed plate C is a

page_text: groove V, the curve of which is slightly excentric to the centre of the eye-
hole C in the bed plate. Upon the disc G is an adjustable pin v', which
is held in the slot v by means of a set screw. In Fig. 2 the disc is repre-
sented as turned somewhat out of its true position, which is such that when
the needle begins to work the eye of the button-hole the pin ¹ should enter
the groove V, so as to draw the edge of the plate closer to the needle. On
the end of the sliding frame is a bracket W, through which a pin w passes.
This pin is upheld by a curved spring X on the frame, and on the other side
of the bracket is another spring Y. When the machine is working the
straight side of the button-hole the pin w fits into a depression W¹ in the
plate C, and prevents it from moving about on the sliding frame, but just
before the disc G begins to turn its edge impinges upon the spring Y, and draws
down the pin W, thus leaving the bed plate free to play laterally on its hinges.
When the disc has completed its turning movement the spring Y rises up
through a notch y¹, in the edge of the disc, and prevents it from turning any
The
further, and the pin w locks the bed plate at the same moment.
spring X can be thrown out of action by turning it horizontally on its pivot,
and if the pin v¹ be removed the device above described will cease to operate
except that the pin w will still hold the plate steadily.
Having now set forth the nature of the Invention of improvements in
sewing machines, as communicated to me from abroad, and explained the
manner of carrying the same into effect, I wish it to be understood that,
under the above in part recited Letters Patent, I claim,―
First, the combination of the eye-pointed needle working up from below
the table and penetrating the fabric, with the thread carrier also working up
from below and penetrating the fabric, the same being constructed and
operated substantially in the manner described for the purpose set forth.
Second, mounting the entire stitching mechanism, constructed as above
described, upon an independent skeleton frame or disc, having a periodical
intermittent rotary movement imparted to it, substantially in the manner
described for the purpose set forth.
Third, the combination of the bed plate (upon which the material to be
sewn is clamped), having a periodical intermittent progressive motion in a
rectilinear path, and in alternately opposite directions, with the independent
disc or frame carrying the stitching mechanism, and having an occasional
intermittent rotating movement in one direction when co-operating, sub-
stantially in the manner described, for the purpose of working automatically
both sides and the eye of a button-hole, as herein set forth.
Fourth, the combination of the inclined shaft N of the thread carrier when

page_text: made to rest in open bearings, with a retaining spring n², substantially as
described for the purpose set forth.
Fifth, the combination of the cam O, inclined shaft N, and needle
mandril K, when co-operating, substantially in the manner and for the
purpose described.
Sixth, the combination of the stitching plate M and tension post m, sub-
stantially as and for the purpose described.
Seventh, the combination of the spool case P, tension post R¹, adjusting
spring S, and thread carrier n, substantially as described for the purpose of
regulating the position of the pearl, as set forth.
Eighth, the combination of the rotating disc G with the friction springs T,
substantially as and for the purpose described.
Ninth, the means above described for operating the skeleton frame or disc
and the sliding frame B.
Tenth, the combination of the groove V on the bed plate with the stop
pin v on the disc, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
Eleventh, the shield or thimble M¹, to protect the needle to bear upon the
fabric, and to retain the gimp in position, substantially in the manner described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Alfred Vincent Newton, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, the Twenty-third day of May, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-three.
Witness,
J. W. MOFFATT,
66, Chancery Lane.
A. V. NEWTON. (L.S.)