IMPROVEMENTS IN TH MANUFACTURE OF ORNAMENTAL FABRICS
Year: 1863

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Robert Bell, of Glasgow, in the County of Lanark,
North Britain, Manufacturer, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN TH
MANUFACTURE OF ORNAMENTAL FABRICS."
Sealed the 24th June 1864, and dated the 31st December 1863.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Robert Bell at the Office
of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 31st December
1863.
.I, ROBERT BELL, of Glasgow, in the County of Lanark, North Britain,
Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention of "IM-
PROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ORNAMENTAL FABRICS," to be as follows,
that is to say:-
This Invention relates to the manufacture of ornamental fabrics to form
a cheap substitute for a class of "zebras," or similar fabrics of woollen or
worsted having parti-colored patterns, usually of a bright or gaudy character,
produced from threads of different colors by the comparatively expensive
process of jacquard weaving. In weaving the fabrics referred to by jacquard
apparatus, a flushing of the threads is produced on the reverse side, which

page_text: flushing imparts a thickness and softness constituting a great recommen-
dation of the fabrics in the markets for which they are more particularly
intended.
In the substitute fabric manufactured according to this Invention the
ornamental parti-colored pattern is produced by printing, and for the purpose
of receiving the printed pattern a fabric is woven so as to present a surface of
woollen or worsted, whilst a suitable thickness and softness is obtained by a
flushing of cotton threads on the reverse side. The weaving is effected with
ordinary heddles or healds instead of the expensive jacquard apparatus,
the flushing being regular instead of irregular as in the jacquard woven
fabric. It is preferred to employ cotton warps with woollen or worsted weft
for the pattern surface, and with a cotton weft for the flushing, but in some
cases woollen or worsted warps may be used, or cotton warps for the flushing.
The woollen or worsted may be in the gray state, the fabric being scoured
in the usual way after being woven, preparatory to receiving the printed
pattern.
By another modification there is woven by well-known loom arrangements
a double fabric, or a fabric consisting of two plies, and a flushing of cotton is
produced in the weaving between the plies, such flushing giving the required
thickness and softness, and also serving to connect the two plies. The
outer surfaces of this double fabric may be both of woollen or worsted, or
one of woollen or worsted and the other of cotton, and similar or different
patterns may be printed on the opposite sides, or one side may be left
unprinted.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Robert Bell in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 29th
June 1864.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, ROBERT
BELL, Glasgow, in the County of Lanark, North Britain, Manufacturer, send
greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Thirty-first day of December, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-three, in the twenty-first year
of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto

page_text: me, the said Robert Bell, Her special licence that I, the said Robert Bell,
my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said
Robert Bell, my executors, administrators, or assigns, should at any time
agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter
during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use,
exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and
Ireland; the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IM-
PROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ORNAMENTAL FABRICS," upon the con-
dition (amongst others) that I, the said Robert Bell, my executors or
administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or onio
of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the
nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be
performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office
within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said
Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Robert Bell, do hereby declare the
nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement in writing, reference being had to the accompanying Diagrams,
and to the letters and figures marked thereon, that is to say:-
My said Invention relates to the manufacture of ornamental fabrics to form
a cheap substitute for that class of "zebras," or similar fabrics which are
composed wholly or partially of wool or worsted, and have parti-colored
patterns, usually of a bright or gaudy character, on the right or front side or
on both sides, which are produced by means of threads of different colors by
the comparatively expensive process of jacquard weaving. In weaving the
fabrics referred to by jacquard apparatus a flushing of the threads is produced
on the reverse side, or between two plies, which flushing imparts a thickness
and softness constituting a great recommendation of the fabrics in the markets
for which they are more particularly intended.
In the substitute fabric manufactured according to my said Invention the
ornamental parti-colored pattern is produced by printing, in the way ordinarily
practised for such patterns, and for the purpose of receiving the printed
pattern a fabric is woven in such a way as to present a surface entirely or
principally of wool or worsted, whilst a suitable thickness and softness are
obtained by a flushing of cotton threads. on the reverse side. The weaving
is effected with ordinary heddles or healds instead of the expensive jacquard
apparatus, the flushing being regular instead of irregular as in the jacquard

page_text: woven fabric. The practical weaver will be aware that a fabric of the kind
indicated may be woven in various ways at the same time; in order that my
Invention may be at once put in practice without uncertainty or difficulty, I
have hereunto appended a Sheet of Diagrams, from which the weaver will
understand the manner of weaving a few varieties of fabric suitable therefor.
Warps of wool or worsted may be used with cotton wefts for the ground
and for the flushing, the warps being thrown to the right side, for which
suitable arrangements are shown in Diagrams 1 and 2. As usual in
such Diagrams, the horizontal interlinear spaces represent the several heddle
leaves, the numerals indicating the order in which the warp threads are drawn
into them, whilst the vertical spaces represent the treadles or treadings, the
foot numerals indicating the order of their action, and the crosses marking the
raised heddle leaves. Diagram 2 differs from Diagram 1 principally in
providing for a larger proportion of flushing. The fabric may be made with
cotton warps, with a woollen or worsted weft to be thrown to the right side,
and with a cotton weft for the flushing, for which a suitable arrangement is
shown in Diagram 3. The flushing might also consist of cotton warps,
or partly of cotton warps and partly of cotton wefts. The wool or worsted
may be in the gray state, the fabric being scoured in the usual way after being
woven preparatorily to receiving the printed pattern.
By another modification there is woven by well-known loom arrangements
a double fabric or a fabric consisting of two plies and a flushing of cotton is
produced in the weaving between the plies, such flushing giving the required
thickness and softness and also serving to connect the two plies. The outer
surfaces of this double fabric may be both entirely or principally of wool
or worsted, or one entirely or principally of wool or worsted and the other
of cotton, and similar or different patterns may be printed on the opposite
sides, or one side may be left unprinted. Diagram 4 shows an arrangement
suitable for this double cloth when weft is thrown to the outer surfaces,
but like the single cloth the double cloth may be woven in various well known
ways.
Having thus particularly described the nature of my Invention, and the
manner in which it is to be performed, I hereby declare that I do not claim
generally the combination of wool or worsted or both with cotton in the
manufacture of zebras or similar fabrics, neither do I claim separately the
printing of woven fabrics on one or both sides; but what I do claim is,-
1, the mode herein-before described of producing a printed zebra or similar
fabric.

page_text: And 2, the improved ornamental fabric also herein-before described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Robert Bell, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Twenty-eighth day of June, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-four.
Witness,
EDMUND HUNT,
Patent Agent,
28, St. Enoch Square,
Glasgow.
ROBERT BELL. (L.S.)