IMPROVEMENTS IN KNITTING MACHINERY FOR THE PRODUCTION OF COLOURED FABRICS
Year: 1883

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Frederick James Drewry of Burton on Trent in the
county of Stafford Gentleman, Executor of William Morgan-Brown Patent
Agent of 38 Southampton Buildings London deceased, for an Invention of
IMPROVEMENTS IN KNITTING MACHINERY FOR THE PRODUCTION OF
COLOURED FABRICS" Communicated to him from abroad by Hermann Martini
of Chemnitz Germany
"
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Morgan-Brown at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 11th January 1883.
WILLIAM MORGAN BROWN Patent Agent of 38 Southampton Buildings London
"IMPROVEMENTS IN KNITTING MACHINERY FOR THE PRODUCTION OF COLOURED
FABRICS [A communication to him from abroad by Hermann Martini of
Chemnitz Germany]
"
The designs in different colors are worked on the apparatus in such a manner
that a thread (Figures 4 and 5) is laid over a number of needles a under
another number of needles a' of the row thus forming loops only on a and hanging
on a behind the old loops stretched out on the back of the fabric.
The needles a must not be pressed while this imperfect row of loops is formed.
The colored designs can be easily obtained in a great variety by the following
improved arrangement.
The needles of the apparatus (Figure 1 and 2) which can be moved separately
aro lodged in grooves of the two plates bc of which the latter c is connected to the
knocking over bar P and can be displaced with it.
The needles are provided with two butts 1, 2, and they are not pushed singly
to and fro through the needle bars dc but all simultaneously like one movable
needle bar. The frame g holds the needles in their guides and when advanced
the thread is laid over them and formed into loops by the sinkers h.
If a broken row of loops is to be worked those needles a (Figure 6) which are
not required to form loops are automatically drawn back the effect being the same
as in the process hitherto applied (Figures 4 and 5) the thread being likewise

page_text: stretched behind the old loops hanging on a¹. For this purpose the needle plate 6
(Figure 1) is provided with thin iron plates i i¹ behind the needles a in each
groove receiving the needle butts 2 in the notch at i and connected with a lover k
ork. These levers are arranged in the two rows every one carrying a horizontal
rod or at the top placed before a Jacquard prism m with cards o which are
pushed to the left towards the rods by means of lovers m¹ m³ m³ and eccentric
on the driving shaft. The rods or l¹ not encountering any card perforations aro
pushed to the left by the card and consequently they draw their respective needles
back into the position a¹ (Figure 6) by means of the levers k¹ i¹ and ki.
As soon as a row of loops is finished the needles are all drawn back together
behind the knocking over bar p in order to finish the loops and are advanced
again collectively by the bar d (Figure 7) for the formation of a new row simul-
taneously put in the little plates i forward and pushing the rods ll to the
right by means of the levers ¹k¹i k.
The bar d passes over springs q (figure 1) during this operation and its ends y y
are carried underneath, the projecting ribs x. x. by which after their passage the
bar is lifted and it leaves the neodle butts 1 when the needles a have advanced far
enough and when the formation of loops is to begin. Prior to this operation
however the Jacquard prism m moves in the direction of drawing back those
needles which should not operate in the next row.
The rest of the needles which are advanced get their loops formed by hand
are then drawn back altogethor by the bar c to work their row of loops in tho
known manner.
The bars c and d are always moved together by means of levers and eccentrics
on the drawing shaft. When going backwards d descends upon the slanting
shanks of qq and is finally ready again as shown in figure 7 to press all the needles
forward towards 2.
The revolution of the Jacquard prism is effected by a ratchet wheel'n and a pawl
operated by the same lever which sets the press in motion.
Coloured yarns which are preferably employed in the manufacture of these
fabrics are harder and more brittle than tho raw yarns therefore the narrowing
has to be carried out more attentively than formerly inasmuch as it is requisite
that the narrowing needles x (figure 8) are pressed accurately on the needles of the
apparatus not only in the operation of narrowing but also in that of widening.
With regard to this purpose the eccentric v is provided with two cams 5 and 6
by which the bar a is turned twice and also the needles pressed twice at every
revolution.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed
by the said Frederick James Drewry Executor of William Morgan-Brown,
deceased, in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 11th July 1883.
FREDERICK JAMES DREWRY of Burton on Trent in the County of Stafford,
Gentleman, Executor of William Morgan-Brown Patent Agent of 38 Southampton
Buildings London, deceased, who died on the Thirty first day of March One
thousand eight hundred and eighty threo 'IMPROVEMENTS IN KNITTING MACHINERY
FOR THE PRODUCTION OF COLOURED FABRICS A communication to William
Morgan-Brown aforesaid from abroad by Hermann Martini of Chemnitz Germany
"
The designs in different colours are worked on the apparatus in such a manner
that a thread (Figures 4 and 5) is laid over a number of needles a under another
number of needles a, of the row, thus forming loops only on a and hanging on a
behind the old loops stretched out on the back of the fabric.
The needles a must not be pressed while this imperfect row of loops is formed.
The colored designs can be easily obtained in a great variety by the following
improved arrangement.
The needles of the apparatus (Figures 1 and 2) which can be moved separately
are lodged in grooves of the two plates bc of which the latter c is connected to
the knocking over bar p and can be displaced with it.
The needles are provided with two butts 1. 2. and they are not pushed singly to
and fro through the needle bars de but all simultaneously like one moveable needle
bar. The frame g holds the needles in their guides, and when advanced the thread
is laid over them and formed into loops by the sinkers h
If a broken row of loops is to be worked, those needles a, (Figure 6) which are not
required to form loops are automatically drawn back, the effect being the same as
in the process hitherto applied (Figures 4 and 5) the thread being likewise stretched
behind the old loops hanging on a. For this purpose the needle plate b (Figure 1) is
provided with thin iron plates ii, behind the needles a in each groove receiving
the needle butts 2. in the notch at i and connected with a lever k or k¹. Theso
levers are arranged in the two rows, every one carrying a horizontal rod or l₁ at
the top, placed before a Jacquard prism or cylinder m with cards o which are
pushed to the left towards the rods, by ineans of levers m₁ m, m, and an
eccentric on the driving shaft-The rods or not encountering any card
perforations are pushed to the left by the card and consequently they draw their
respective needles back into the position a₁ (Figure 6) by means of the levers k¹ i
and ki.
As soon as a row of loops is finished the needles are all drawn back together
behind the knocking-over-bar p in order to finish the loops and are advanced again
collectively by the bar d (Figure 7) for the formation of a new row, simultaneously
putting the little plates ii, forward and pushing the rods ₁ to the right by
means of the levers i, k, i, k.
The bar d passes over springs q (Figure 1) during this operation, and its ends y y
are carried underneath the projecting ribs xx by which after their passage the bar
is lifted and it leaves the needle butts 1 when the needles a have advanced far
enough and when the formation of loops is to begin. Prior to this operation
bowever, the Jacquard prism or cylinder m moves in the direction of 14, drawing
back those needles which should not operate in the next row.
The rest of the needles which are advanced get their loops formed by h and are
then drawn back altogether by the bar r to work their row of loops in the known
manner.
The bars c and d are always moved together by means of levers and eccentrics
6

page_text: on the driving shaft. When going back wards d descends upon the slanting shanks
of qq and is finally ready again as shewn in Figure 7 to press all the needles
forward towards 2.
The revolution of the Jacquard prism or cylinder is effected by a ratchet wheel n
and a pawl operated by the same lever which sets the press in motion.
Colored yarns which are preferably employed in the manufacture of these fabrics
are harder and more brittle than the raw yarns therefore the narrowing has to be
carried out more attentively than formerly inasmuch it is requisite that the
narrowing needles (Figure 8) are pressed accurately on the needles of the
apparatus not only in the operation of narrowing but also in that of widening.
With regard to this purpose the eccentric is provided with two cams 5 and 6
by which the bar a is turned twice and also the needles pressed twice at every
revolution.
8
ย
This arrangement may be modified in such a manner that tho Jacquard
mechanism pushes directly against the sinkers guided in the bed behind the needles
and provided with wedge shaped ends (Figure 12) which, as soon as the Jacquard
prism or cylinder pushes them against the needles, reach underneath the same
thus effecting a partial advancement of the hinder needle feet from the needle bed
the action of the bar d', which is connected with and guided by the Jacquard
mechanism remains the same as with the bar d. the lifted needle feet being grasped
by it simultaneously with the back movement of the Jacquard mechanism drawing
the needles out of the reach of the needle guide so that they cannot form
any loops.
The bars ee which are also connected with and guided by the Jacquard
mechanism servo in this case for holding the sinkers x. x. in the needle bed as
well as for moving them back during the backward movement of the Jacquard
mechanism.
Figure 12 shews a sectional side view of this new arrangement, the same Figure
represents the sinkers with wedge shaped ends x. x.
For the better explanation of the operation of placing the threads over some
needles, Figure 12 shows an illustration of some needles provided with threads.
The inventor is however not necessarily bound in producing figured fabrics to
draw his needles out of the reach of the thread guide but he may by the aid of the
devices represented in Figure 13 push forward into the reach of the thread guide
those needles which are to form loops that is to say, to bring these needles
inversely into the reach of the thread guide thus fitting the needles which come
into contact with the sinkers for executing work, while with the modification above
referred to the needles which are to work do not move.
It is not requisite in this case to make use of the sinkers, for the needles may be
prolonged in such a manner that the prism or cylinder pushes directly against the
extremities of the feet.
During this peculiar operation of pushing the needles into the reach of the thread
guide, the bar d may be dispensed with and is pressed against tho bar e. by means
of a spring fFigure 13.
In case the machinery is to work without a Jacquard mechanism the bar d
becomes requisite again and is caused to act by pressing the bar d. downwards, so
that the position of working fore-feet of the needles is between the bars d and e,
the needles being displaced in the known manner.
A further modification which is employed when less complicated fabrics are to be
produced, and which as it were, takes the place of the Jacquard prism or cylinder!
represented in Figure 17.
In this case there are used, instead of one bar only, several of them which act
alternately, pushing the needles forward, according to the fabric desired, none but
the bar which is required to work descending. These bars are provided with cuts
which have the effect that when such a bar da reaches into them in moving over the
needle-bed, those needles which are not to work, stand still as they are not met by
the bar to be taken along.

page_text: The limited vertical movement of the bars is effected by connecting them with
a wheel A having tappets.
In each plane in which the several series of tappets revolve there is a bar B
which is continually pressed against the wheel A or its tappets. Each of these
bars carries a pair of eccentrics a, a, b. b. etc which in case the bars are not in
activity offer a support for bolts c. c¹ which carry the ends of the bar d. Now if
one of the bars is to work, that is to fall down upon the bed, one or more members
are wanting in the respective series of tappets so that while the spring presses the
bar B into the respective gap thus created, the eccentrics deprive the bolts belonging
to them of their support causing them and that of the respectivo bar d. to
descend.
The movement of the bar is also in this case similar to that of the former
arrangement.
Figures 16 and 16ª illustrate a device which permits the bar d. being diminished
in length on both ends so that the needles, arranged on its sides when they come
within the plane of the bar thus shortened, are not pushed forward to form loops, in
order to prevent those needles when the fabric has been narrowed from coming into
the reach of the thread guide.
The movement of plates C. C. by which the bar d. may when desired be
shortened is caused by means of a spindle D having right and left hand threads
which in turn receive its movement by means of the ratchet wheel E from the
eccentric shaft. Figure 16 shows the bar d. in its entire length, Figure 16 the
same shortened.
Instead of a bar d. with the different arrangements soveral bars may be arranged
by the side of each other, the object being to disengage one or more sections of
these bars while the machinery is at work without stopping it altogether. Figure 15
shows such a bar which may be divided into several sections but other construction
can be substituted for it, for instance in such a way that the several section plates
can be lifted vertically and fixed by means of screws.
Besides the known arrangement of the thread guides above the row of needles
the inventor also places, with a view to enable him to advantageously increase the
number of thread guides, underneath the row of needles a series of thread guides
which may work in connection with the upper thread guides or without them
Figures 10. 11. 11ª, 11b.
To obtain this end it became requisite to provide besides the thread guides an
arrangement by which the bar supporting the needles takes its supporting position
just at the time when the passing lower thread guides placing the threads have
arrived at the end of their course. As the bar which takes its supporting position
does not afford any certainty as regards the needles being laterally shifted and as
under these circumstances they come into contact with the descending sinkers
when at work, the arrangement of the supporting bar which when oscillating takes
its position below the needles or moving at some distance away from them
requires an improved construction of the bar itself, which consists in being provided
with depressions whose number is in conformity with that of the row of needles
in which case each depression holding its needle in position lateral warping of the
same caused either by the several thread guides placing their threads on the needles,
or by the threads being at some points, thicker than at others, is entirely prevented,
so that the destruction of a needle by the sinkers being detained can no longer
take place.
The threads employed for producing fabrics (principally those with which use is
mado of the lower thread guide sometimes in combination with the upper thread
guide necessarily consisting of yarns possessing different suppleness and brittleness,
so that there exists at various points more or less elasticity in them and also in
consequence of the existence of thinner or thicker points in the yarn, inconveniences
arise having the effect that longer or shorter loops are produced and consequently
the loops thus formed are frequently torn asunder when being knocked over which

page_text: circumstance has a very troublesome influence on the production of coloured
fabrics.
To prevent the loops being torn asunder on being knocked over the knocking
over bar has been constructed in such a manner, that it permits in certain cases
being shifted when the loops are knocked over, yielding so far as is necessary for
knocking over the short loops, the spring thon coming into operation to press it
back into its original position.
Figures 10. 11 11ª. 11. of the annexed drawing represent a lateral and an upper
view of the new arrangement of the thread guide.
The thread guides a. a. fixed to the slides b. b. are those rows of guides
employed for fabrics produced by a jacquard and which are placed underneath the
needle row. They are carried by two bars c. c'. which move along the bar d.
(turning in bearings c. c¹) by means of the arms f. f. and which can be lifted or
lowered with the levers g. g. for the purpose of placing their threads over some
sections of the needles.
The adjustable longitudinal movement is regulated by the aid of two bent
'levers h. i. and h'. i. in combination with the sliding picces kª³, k³, which in
turn may be adjusted by a shaft A with two eccentrics L. 1. placed laterally.
The revolution of this shaft is effected by the eccentric shaft of the machine
having pawls which gear with two ratchet wheels m and n, Figures 11. 11ª 11b
According as the sliding pieces. ². are connected with the bent levers 7. i.
or .. either by the arms o. 0¹. or o². and according as the shaft A is caused by
the wheels m or n. (by means of an adjustable lever 2 which is operated by the
eccentric shaft) to revolve to the right or left, the thread guides a a. are moved in
the same or in contrary directions the object being to place their threads over the
several sections of the needles.
With colored fabrics the pin g is employed to disengage one of the pawls.
To produce shifted and simultaneously open intermittent patterns, the sliding
pieces k. . . . which limit the course taken by the bars of the thread guide are
connected crosswise with each other. With the bent lever h. i. the shaft t of a
Jacquard machine v. may be connected by means of r and s. (Figure 11) in such a
manner that they together with the prism or cylinder are simultaneously shifted
with the sliding pieces . . 12. 13. in a longitudinal direction by which means the
prism or cylinder can always displace further off to one side those needles which
are to operate the guides a. a. being also displaced in the saine proportion and
therefore always put the threads in the proper places over their needles.
Thus stripes of colours passing in any desired slanting direction and zig zag
patterns are produced.
On the prism or cylinder v pushing against the needles, the bearings w. the shaft t.
and the pulley 8. are also carried along and the latter on returning comes again
into contact with the tappet r. which shifts the whole Jacquard mechanism to one
side, but is permitted to turn in order to change the cards.
The Jacquard mechanism being required when a lateral displacement takes place
to keep in a secure position, a lever is provided which engages with the grooves
in the shaft whose number is equal to that of the needles.
If the machinery works simultaneously with the upper thread guides commonly
employed which are generally in operation in producing entire one colored rows of
loops, and with the lower guides a. a. in the plain fabric, fancy coloured_patterns
are produced in some places or fancy patterns in fabrics produced by the Jacquard
or finally according to the succession of the rows, combinations of striped with
Jacquard patterns and with fancy pattern, that is differently figured fabrics.
The bar which supports the needles during the operation of the sinkers must be
as mentioned before, each time when the thread guides are to operate out of the
'way of the latter. To obtain this object the inventor makes use of the arrangement
represented in Figures 10 and 10°.
Two levers B oscillating around the point C (onc lever only is shown in the

page_text: Drawing) take up by the depressions on their upper ends, a bar Z which is provided
with cuts whose number is in conformity with that of the row of needles (vide
Figures 10 and 10º) and which is to support the needles while at work and to
prevent a lateral displacement.
The lower end of the lever has two arms B and B which are provided with
pulleys which may turn in contact with the periphery of two eccentrics D and E.
The eccentric D is placed on the working shaft while the eccentric E is arranged
on the narrowing shaft. If then the needle bar Z were caused sometimes by the
eccentric on the working shaft, sometimes by the eccentric on the narrowing shaft
to oscillate in such a manner that the needle bar Z is pressed below the needles,
after the thread guides have placed their threads, it supports the needles during the
operation of the sinkers and subsequently this having been effected turns by degrees
away from the needles.
While the narrowing operation is going on the eccentric on the narrowing shaft
presses this needle bar against the needles until those needles for the uncovering
operation are taken hold of by the needles for the covering operation.
In order to make the knocking over bar moveable for the purpose referred to,
the frame as shown in Figure 14 is provided with the arms 1. 1. upon which the
knocking over bar is made to slide in a dovetail groove. The springs 3. 3 press
the bar against the adjusting screws 4. 4. which pass through shoulders 5. 5 of tho
arms 1. 1. With a view to secure the retrograde movement of the bar in such
manner that it permits of being adjusted in small distances; adjusting screws 6. 6
aro provided which push against the needle bed when the bar in acccordance with
the short length of the loops, has sufficiently far receded. The play for the bar can
be increased or diminished by screwing this adjusting device in or out.
Having now described and particularly set forth the nature of the said Invention
and the manner of carrying the same into effect I would have it understood that
what I claim is :-
First. In knitting machinery the arrangement by which the needles are moved
out of or into the reach of the thread guide by means of a Jacquard mechanism and
by which the shifting of the needles requisite for the formation of the loops is
effected by bars.
Second In place of the prism, or cylinder the employment of several bara d. which
are provided with depressions permitting the neodles according to the pattern
wanted to move into or out of the reach of the thread guide.
Third. In combination with the bar or bars d. the arrangement of two
plates C. C. which are moved by a spindle having right and left hand threads and
which in some cases diminish the length of the bars d. so that the needles within
the plane of this diminished portion cannot enter into the reach of the thread
guide.
Fourth. Dividing the bar d into several sections, in order to stop the action of
the needles for the length of one or more stockings while the other needles continue
to work or vice versa.
Fifth. The arrangement of thread guides placed underneath the needle row and
being automatically adjustable with respect to each other and which may sometimes
work in combination with the known upper needle guides, in order to produce, for
instance, any figured patterns.
a
Sixth. The employinent of oscillating lovers-which on the one hand carry a bar
for supporting the needles and on the other, are imparted with a double movement
by the eccentrics on the working and narrowing shaft for the purpose first of
enabling them when oscillating to advance, after the thread guide has passed thus
supporting the needles during the descending motion of the sinkers and further
when advancing a second time to prevent lateral shifting of the needles during the
narrowing operation.
Seventh. The employment of a bar Z which is provided, conformably to the
number of needles, with depressions, for the purpose of supporting the needles

page_text: during the descent of the sinkers and the narrowing operation as well as to prevent
in both cases lateral shifting of the same.
Eighth. The arrangement of an adjustable knocking-over bar 2 which shifts
horizontally, within certain limits only when a loop is to be knocked over which
wants the requisite length on purpose to avoid its being torn asunder.
In witness whereof I the said Frederick James Drewry have hereunto set
my hand and seal this ninth day of July One thousand eight hundred
and eighty threo.
FREDERICK JAMES DREWRY (L.S.)