NEW OR IMPROVED APPARATUS FOR PRO
Year: 1880

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Léon Octave Deschamps, of Paris, in the Republic of
France, Machinist, for an Invention of "NEW OR IMPROVED APPARATUS FOR
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Léon Octave Deschamps at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 14th May 1880.
LÉON OCTAVE DESCHAMPS, of Paris, in the Republic of France, Machinist.
"NEW OR IMPROVED APPARATUS FOR CUTTING TULLES, LACES, EMBROIDERY, AND
OTHER SIMILAR ARTICLES."
The object of this apparatus is to cut mechanically all the embroidery and gymp
threads that require to be eliminated from tulles, laces, valenciennes, embroidery,
tarlatans, and such like, after their manufacture in their appropriate machines.
My Invention consists in arranging concentrically a collecting comb r of special
construction (see the Drawing annexed hereto) directly in contact with the surface
of the tulle or other article to be cut, and over this a knife h pressed elastically
upon the collecting comb. These two parts conveniently mounted, held, and
guided, receive a tolerably rapid movement of rotation in opposite directions, that
is to say, the collector turns, say from left to right, to collect the threads to be
cut, the knife h turning from right to left to divide the said threads. The move-
ments of the knife and collector are obtained by a flexible band or by any suitable
arrangement which allows of moving the apparatus or tool in any direction, whilst
maintaining it always normal to the surface to be shorn.
In the Drawing, Figure 1 is a vertical section of the apparatus; Figure 2, a
plan; Figure 3 is an external view of the driving gear; and Figure 4 shews another
arrangement of the same.
a is a wooden handle to which is fixed the bush 6 terminated by a screwed part,
upon which is screwed the socket c¹, connected by three arms to the ring c; a
facing or packing (garniture) c" of this ring rubs over the tulle and raises the
embroidery threads (fils brodeurs).
d and fare the shafts or axes of the knife h and collector r, turning one within
the other in opposite directions. In order to effect this, rotary motion is imparted
to the shaft by any suitable means (see Figures 1 and 3), a bevil wheel f' conveys
this motion to an intermediate shaft g by the pinion g'; another pinion g" on the
033

page_text: shaft g drives the pinion on the shaft d. This combination gives to the shafts
d and movements in reverse directions, and allows of different speeds being
communicated to them.
Figure 4 shews a means of driving by a band or cord which drives a pulley x,
the shaft of which drives the shaft f by a pinion f", and the intermediate shaft g by
the spur-wheel a gearing into, the spur pinion y. This intermediate shaft g drives
the shaft d by the pinions g¹¹ and d¹.
The shaft carries at its lower end the collector r fitted, into the ring c. The
collector r is formed of a half disc in steel, which presents within a sector of about
one eighth of a circle a comb R, composed of a number of straight or curved
teeth.
Over the collector r is applied the knife h consisting of one or more blades,
one of which drives the presser k. This presser has as many branches as there
are blades in the knife. "It precedes these blades and presses the threads to
be cut.
I claim as my Invention the apparatus hereinbefore described for cutting tulles,
laces, embroidery, and other similar articles, such apparatus being based upon the
arrangement of two shafts turning one within the other in opposite directions, the
one carrying a collecting comb and the other a knife, which cuts closely the
embroidery and gymp threads.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said Léon Octave Deschamps in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 13th
November 1880.
LÉON OCTAVE DESCHAMPS, of Paris, in the Republic of France, Machinist.
"NEW OR IMPROVED APPARATUS FOR CUTTING TULLES, LACES, EMBROIDERY, AND
OTHER SIMILAR ARTICLES."
In the manufacture of tulles, laces, valenciennes, embroidery, tarlatans, and other
such like articles by machinery, the mechanical production of the designs
necessitates the use of embroidery threads, which assist in the formation of flowers
and other designs, and which have to be afterwards cut close between each of the
said flowers or other designs.
Heretofore the cutting of the embroidery or gymp threads has been done by
hand. By means of the apparatus hereinafter described this work is done
mechanically.
Several arrangements of apparatus may be employed; three examples of which
are shewn in the annexed Sheet of Drawings, and with these may be combined other
apparatuses comprising various parts of the arrangements shewn.
The first example is shewn in vertical section in Figure 1, and in sectional plan
in Figure 2, taken on line 1 - - 2 of Figure 1.
In a wooden handle a, the position of which when the apparatus is at work is
normal to the surface of the fabric, is fixed a long bush b, which extends downwards
to receive on its screwed end the socket or boss c¹ of a circle or ring c which is of a
single piece, with this socket or boss being connected to it by three or other
suitable number of arms. A circular groove in the under face of the ring c is filled
with india rubber, leather, gutta percha, or other suitable material c³, the object of
which is to rub over the fabric to be cut and to raise up the embroidery threads.
The ring c may be raised or lowered more or less on the bush b, and is held
securely in place by the lock nut c³; it keeps the bottom of the fabric always
parallel with the collecting comb, which is concentric with it, and which will be
described hereafter.
In the bush b is fitted a tube or hollow shaft d, through which passes easily the
central axis f. The part d is the axis of the knife, and the part that of the
collector. In the example shewn they turn in opposite directions, but they may be
arranged to turn in the same direction if desired.
The shaft passes through a bearing b', cast with the bush bor fixed thereto, and
is connected with any suitable driving mechanism, such as the known flexible
driving, shafting, or other means which allows of the cutting tool being moved in
every direction without interrupting its action.
The required rotary motion being imparted to the shaft fis transmitted by the
bevil wheel to the bevil pinion g' upon the intermediate shaft g, and thence by
the pinion g² to the pinion on the shaft d.
The motions of the shafts & and fare thus in reverse directions; they are
also of different speeds; for example, in the proportion of one to four or other
suitable relation.
The shaft carries at its lower end the collector r, fixed by the screw r¹ and
two snugs.
The collector r, which is fitted with tolerable accuracy into the circle c, consists
of a half disc in steel r furnished with a comb R, the teeth of which are concentric
or not and of greater or lesser number.
Over the collector is applied the knife %, which comprises three curvilinear
blades, the cutting edges of which are level with the surface of the collector.
The three blades are connected to a central boss ¹, which is fitted on the end of
the hollow shaft d, and is secured thereon by a snug or key. A coiled spring h²
contained in a bollow of the bush b forces the knife h to rub constantly over the
collector.

page_text: Each of the blades of the knife h is accompanied by a presser k, having three
branches surrounding with tolerable exactness the cutting edges of the knives, and
consequently preceding them in their operation.
The branches of the presser k are of metal, and either uncovered or covered with
leather, india rubber, or gutta percha. They are intended to lay the threads on the
teeth of the comb as they are collected by the latter.
The presser is driven by the boss h³ of the knives by means of a snug or key,
a spring forces the branches to remain constantly in contact with the collector r
and its comb R.
ACTION OF THE APPARATUS.
Supposing the fabric to be cut to be well stretched, and that the shafts & and f
are set in motion, the operator holding the handle a in the right hand places the
ring e firmly upon the tulle or other fabric. This ring serves as a guide and base
for the tool; it raises the embroidery threads to be cut; these are collected by the
teeth R and immediately divided by the knives h. It is therefore only necessary
to move the tool in every direction, pressing it always upon the tulle or other
fabric in order to cut all the embroidery and gymp threads which encumber the
surface between each of the flowers or designs with which it is provided.
The second example is shewn in Figures 3 and 4, Figure 3 being a vertical
section, and Figure 4 a plan taken on line 1 -- 2 of Figure 3.
This model and that shewn in Figures 5 and 6, hereafter described, differ from
the preceding in that the collecting comb does not turn, the knife alone being
caused to rotate rapidly,
In the handle a is the fixed bush b, on the lower extremity of which is screwed
the boss c¹ of the circle c. This circle is screwed internally to receive the screwed
edge of the collector r; the latter may thus be caused to project downward below
the circle to any required extent, and is held in place by tightening up the strap c
placed in the crown piece c, which is sawn through at three points c³, c³, c, to
facilitate this tightening.
The comb R of the collector has its teeth normal to the radius, but the apparatus
may be arranged with combs having one or several teeth disposed radially. The
steel disc constituting the collector, and having the comb R connected to it by
screwing, riveting, or soldering, is pierced with a certain number of openings ³, 2,
the sides of which are toothed to collect and raise the threads to be cut.
Over the disc is applied the three branched knife h, the boss of which is
fitted on the end of the central shaft and driven with it by means of a snug or
key taking into a vertical groove in the shaft f. A spring h² bearing against a
shoulder on the shaft f forces the knife / constantly against the dise ?.
The upper end of the shaft f above the bush b carries the pulley f' which
receives the driving band.
The action of this apparatus is the same as that before explained in respect of
the tool shewn in Figures 1 and 2.
Figure 5 shews a vertical section, and Figure 6 a plan taken on line 1-2 of
Figure 5 of a third example, in which the collector does not turn and the knife
is placed under the collector.
The circle c is screwed by the boss c¹ upon the bush b, a lock nut c³ holding it
in its place. The collector is screwed to the undersides of the three arms of a boss ¹,
also screwed upon the bush b and secured thereon by the lock nut ³. The
collector may be lowered more or less below the circle c or be brought flush
therewith.
The knife h, shewn in two views in Figures 9 and 10, has one branch only, it is
fixed to the shaft f by the screw h¹. A spring placed above in a cavity of the
bush b forces the shaft fupwards, and thereby holds the knife firmly applied to
the underside of the disc r.
Over this disc r is placed the presser %, which consists (see Figures 7 and 8) of a
piece / covered with leather, india rubber, or gutta-percha to rub on the disc; this

page_text: piece oscillates upon the axis ³, which connects it to the boss k¹. A spring 1³
fixed to the boss takes under the head of a screw k in the piece k, in order to
press down the elastic rubbing part and to force it to rub upon the fabric in the
openings of the disc r.
The boss
is driven by the shaft f, and a spring / forces the presser constantly
against the disc 1.
2"
The disc is furnished with two sets of teeth R, R; it has two openings ², the
faces of which are bevilled and toothed.
In using this tool as described above by moving it about in every direction, the
combs R, R, collect the threads and the knife h cuts them. Furthermore, the ends
of the threads are raised by the sides of the openings and held by the presser k
until the passage of the knife h. Those threads that are fixed to the fabric by the
sizing are also raised by the rubber k, k
Other arrangements of the apparatus may be employed in which the principal
parts, such as the collector, the knife, and the presser may be arranged differently
from the examples shewn; the collector may revolve or not; the comb of the said
collector may have one or several teeth; the knife may have one or several
branches, may be placed above or below the collector, and the presser may or may
not be employed. The apparatus may be worked by any mechanical or manual
driving gear suited to the kind of work to be performed.
Having now described the nature of the said Invention, and the manner in
which the same is to or may be carried into effect, I would have it understood
that what I claim for the purpose of cutting the embroidery and gymp threads
of tulles, laces, valenciennes, embroideries, tarlatans, and other "fashioned
articles is,
First. The apparatus shewn in Figures 1 and 2 of the Drawings, such apparatus
consisting essentially of two shafts, the one fitted concentrically in the other, both
rotating either in opposite directions or in the same direction, the one carrying
a comb for collecting and raising the threads to be cut, and the other a knife
applied with an elastic pressure against the comb, the said comb and knife working
concentrically with a ring, which does not revolve, and which serves as a support,
guide, and base for the tool or apparatus.
Second. The apparatus, herein before described and shewn in Figures 3 and 4 of
the Drawings, in which the collector does not rotate, and the knife which alone
rotates is arranged as in the apparatus shewn in Figures 1 and 2. The collecting
comb being arranged either radially or normally to the radius, and composed of a
single tooth or of any required number of teeth.
Third. The apparatus, herein before described and shewn in Figures 6, 7, 8, 9,
and 10 of the Drawings, in which the collector is fixed as in the apparatus shewn
in Figures 3 and 4, the knifo rotating and disposed below the comb, the said comb
being either single or double, as in the Drawing, with one or several teeth, and the
collecting disc provided with one, two, or several openings, the sides of which are
toothed or not.
Fourth. The arrangements and adaptations of the presser which secures the
taking of the ends of the uncut threads as well as those which may be fastened
to the fabric by the sizing or otherwise, as herein-before described and shewn in
the Drawings.
In witness whereof, I, the said Léon Octave Deschamps, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Eleventh day of November, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and eighty