IMPROVE- MENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FABRICS IN TWIST LACE MACHINERY
Year: 1873

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to James Oldknow, of Villa Road, in the Town and
County of the Town of Nottingham, for the Invention of "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FABRICS IN TWIST LACE MACHINERY."
Sealed the 15th July 1878, and dated the 4th March 1878.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said James Oldknow at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
4th March 1878.
I, JAMES OLDKNOW, of Villa Road, in the Town and County of the
5 Town of Nottingham, do hereby declare the nature of the said In-
vention for " IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FABRICS IN TWIST LACE
MACHINERY," to be as follows :—

page_text: As an illustration of the means I adopt I will explain one method by
which the embroidery thread is made to move through the "tape band"
from one surface of the same to the other, where it may be kept until it
is required to embroider again on the first surface. Supposing the lines
numbered 1, 2, 3, and 4, in Diagram A, to represent the warp threads of
the "tape band," and the red line numbered 5 to represent the embroidery
thread, then the blue line down the centre will represent the bobbin or weft
thread. Then in operating according to the Invention we will suppose
these threads operated in the following order:-"Firstly," Nos. 1, 2, 4,
and 5 are on the right hand side of the bobbin thread when the same is in 1
the front of the machine, and No. 3 on the left hand side. "Secondly," No. 3
joins Nos. 2, 4, and 5 upon the right hand side of the "bobbin thread"
when that bobbin thread is in the back of the machine, and whilst simul-
taneously No. 1 passes to the left hand side, "Thirdly," when the "bobbin
thread" is again brought into the front of the machine, Nos. 2, 3, and 5 1
join No. 1 on the left hand side of the bobbin thread, while No. 4
remains still upon the right. "Fourthly," when the bobbin thread is again
taken into the back No. 4 is caused to join Nos. 1, 3, and 5 on the left
of the bobbin thread, while simultaneously No. 2 is carried to the right
of it. By this means the embroidery thread, which in reality is situated 2
in the front of the warp threads, is caused to pass through the "tape
band" and to lie at the back thereof simultaneously with the making of
the said band and without requiring any more, motions of the machine
than is required for the making of the "tape band” alone.
Should it be desired to have the embroidery or pattern threads situated 2
at the back of the warp threads, and simply brought to the front at
intervals to produce an ornamental pattern on the surface of the "tape
band," the embroidery and warp threads will require to be operated one
motion of the machine later than as above stated, that is, the positions
of the threads stated to be used when the bobbin thread is in the front 3
of the machine will be used for the motion afterwards when the bobbin -
thread is in the back of the machine, and so on.
The embroidery threads may be used not only at the front or back
of the warp threads but also in their midst, and by operating them
nocording to the foregoing statement they may pass through the "tape 3
band" where required. These relative movements may however, be
varied to the desired pattern.

page_text: The Diagram B is intended to indicate the relative positions the
threads assume when the fabric is finished.
"
My Invention relates, "secondly," to means of producing raised pile
or pyramid band having very much the appearance of "braid," and
5 capable of being produced in various pattern. The raised pile or
pyramid consists of a series of longitudinal threads called sleepers (which
are simply operated under and over one or other of the bobbin or weft
threads at regular intervals), and other threads called “pile threads
which are laid across the sleepers and operated round the bobbin threads
for the joint purpose of piling the sleepers up into the pyramid form,
and giving the braidy appearance to the surface of the band; also one or
more threads operated at the top of all these threads to connect the
two bobbin threads and at the same time form the "apex" of the
pyramid.
"
As an illustration of the means I adopt I will explain one method of
producing the pyramid band. Supposing Nos. 1, 2, 4, and 5 in
Diagram D to be sleepers or straight threads, and Nos. 3 and 6 to be
"pile threads," that is, threads used for the purpose of piling the band
up into the form of a pyramid, and No. 7 to represent the " apex"
thread (or threads), and the blue lines to be two bobbin threads, they will
be operated in the following manner:-"Firstly," when the bobbin
threads are in the front of the machine, Nos. 2, 3, 5, 6, and 7 are on the
right hand side of the second bobbin thread, while No. 4 is between the
first and second bobbin thread, and No. 1 is on the left hand side of the
first bobbin thread. "Secondly," when the bobbin threads are in the back
of the machine, Nos. 1, 3, 4, 6, and 7 are on the left hand side of the first
bobbin thread, while No. 5 is between the two bobbin threads, and No. 2
on the right-hand side of the second bobbin thread. "Thirdly," when
the bobbin threads are again brought to the front of the machine, Nos. 1,
4, 5, and 7 are between the two bobbin threads, while Nos. 3 and 6 are
on the left of the first bobbin thread, and No. 2 to the right of the
second bobbin thread. "Fourthly," when the bobbin threads are again
in the back of the machine, Nos. 2, 4, 5, and 7 are between the two
bobbin threads, while Nos. 3 and 6 are to the right hand of the second
bobbin thread, and No. 1 to the left of the first bobbin thread.
No. 7, the apex thread (or threads) may consist of one or more threads
according to taste, and in some cases I find it advantageous to employ.

page_text: an extra thread operated under and over one of the bobbin threads, so as
to lic at the side of the "apex" thread to assist in forming the band into
the required pattern. The pyramid band may also be made with one
bobbin or weft thread instead of two.
The number of pile threads and sleepers is optional, and may be t
augmented to a considerable extent, depending on the desired height or
form of the pyramid.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said James Oldknow in the Great Seal Patent Office
on the 2nd September 1878.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JAMES
OLDKNOW, of Villa Road, in the Town and County of the Town of 1
Nottingham, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Fourth day of March, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-three, in the
thirty-sixth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and suc- 2
cessors, give and grant unto me, the said James Oldknow, Her special
license that I, the said James Oldknow, my executors, administrators,
and assigns, or such others as I, the said James Oldknow, my
exccutors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with,
and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during
the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use,
exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and
Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "In.
PROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FABRICS IN TWIST LACE MACHINERY,"
upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said James Oldknow, 3
my executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my,

page_text: or their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly describo and
ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in 'what manner the
same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great
Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately
after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said James Oldknow, do hereby declaro
tlie nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to
be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement thereof, that is to say :—
Firstly. To weaving embroidery or pattern threads in the fabric known
as "tape band," so as to produce continuous or detached ornamental work
on either or both surfaces of the fabric as desired.
'
As an illustration of the means I adopt I will explain one method by
which the embroidery thread is made to move through the "tape band"
from one surface of the same to the other, where it may be kept until .
it is required to embroider again on the first surfaco. Supposing the
lines numbered 1, 2, 3, and 4, in Diagram A, to represent the warp
threads of the "tape band," and the red line numbered 5 to represent
the embroidery thread, then the blue line down the centre will represent
the bobbin or weft thread. Then in operating according to the Invention
we will suppose these threads operated in the following order, “firstly,"
Nos. 1, 2, 4, and 5 are on the right hand side of the bobbin thread when
the same is in the front of the machine, and No. 3 on the left hand side';
"secondly," No. 8 joins Nos. 2, 4, and 5 upon the right hand side of the
"bobbin thread" when that bobbin thread is in the back of the machine,
and whilst simultaneously No. 1 passes to the left hand side. "Thirdly,"
when 'the "bobbin thread" is, again brought into the front of the
machine Nos. 2, 3, and 5 join No. 1 on the left hand side of the bobbin
thread; while No. 4 remains still upon the right. "Fourthly," when the
bobbin thread is again taken into the back No. 4 is caused to join Nos. 1,
8, and 5 on the left of the bobbin thread while simultaneously No. 2 is
carried to the right of it. By this means the embroidery thread, which
in reality is situated in the front of the warp threads, is caused to pass
through the "tape band," and to lie at the back thereof simultaneously with

page_text: the making of the said band, and without requiring any more motions of
the machine than is required for the making of the "tape band" alone.
Should it be desired to have the embroidery or pattern threads
situated at the back of the warp threads, and simply brought to the
front at intervals to produce an ornamental pattern on the surface of the
"tapo band," the embroidery and warp threads will require to be
operated one motion of the machine later than as above stated; that is,
the positions of the threads stated to be used when the bobbin thread
is in the front of the machine will be used for the motion afterwards
when the bobbin thread is in the back of the machine, and so on.
.
I
The embroidery threads may be used not only at the front or back of
the warp threads, but also in their midst; and by operating them
according to the foregoing statement they may be caused to pass
through the "tape band" where required. These relative movements
may however be varied to the desirod pattern.
The Diagram B is intended to indicate the relative positions the
threads assume when the fabric is finished.
Secondly. My Invention relates to means of producing raised pile or
pyramid band, having very much the appearance of "braid," and
capable of being produced in various pattern. The raised pile or
pyramid consists of a series of longitudinal threads called sleepers (which
are simply operated under and over one or other of the bobbin or weft
threads at regular intervals), and other threads called "pile threads,"
which are laid across tho sleepers, and operated round the bobbin
threads for the joint purpose of piling the sleepers up into the pyramid
form, and giving the braidy appearance to the surface of the band. Also'
one or more threads operated at the top of all these threads to connect
the two bobbin threads, and at the same time form the "apex" of the
pyramid.
As an illustration of the means I adopt I will explain one method of
producing the pyramid band. Supposing Nos. 1, 2, 4, and 5 in
Diagram D to be sleepers or straight threads, and Nos. 3 and 6 to be
pile threads, that is threads, used for the purpose of piling the band up
"thread
into the form of a pyramid, and No. 7 to represent the " apex
(or threads), and the bluo lines to bo two bobbin threads, they will be
a

page_text: Secondly. I claim the means of producing raised pile or pyramid band,
having very much the appearance of "braid," and capable of being pro-
duced in various pattern, substantially as described.
In witness whereof, I, the said James Oldknow, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Twenty-seventh day of August, in the 5
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-
threc.