Improvements in Attaching Buttons to Garments and Fabrics and the like, which Improvements are also applicable to the Attaching of other like Articles.
Year: 1890

page_text: Date of Application, 12th Mar. 1890
Complete Specification Left, 1st Dec., 1890-Accepted, 31st Jan., 1891
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Attaching Buttons to Garments and Fabrics and
the like, which Improvements are also applicable to the
Attaching of other like Articles.
HENRY DOWLER of the firm of Frederick Dowler and Sons of Wainwright
Street Works Aston near Birmingham in the County of Warwick Manufacturers
do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
--
My invention has reference principally to the attaching of buttons and articles of
the kind for which Letters Patent were granted to Frederick Dowler Henry
Dowler and Frederick Dowler Junior dated May 6th 1878 No. 1806.
My invention is however also applicable to the attachment of buttons of kinds
other than those described in the Specification of the said Patent as well as to the
attachment of other like articles such for example as studs for purses and button
studs.
I will describe my invention in connection with a metallic button having a central
concave depression with a hole at its bottom to the attaching of which kind of
button and of other articles having a central hole my invention refers.
The button is attached by a hollow stem flanged at top which hollow stem is
made and used in the following manner.
The said stem consists of three parts namely an upper part which I will call the
top a middle part which I will call the collar and a lower part which will call the
base. The top consists of an eyelet or tubular rivet that is a short tube flanged
at top and contracted at bottom. The collar consists of a disc with a central
opening and a short tubular rim. The base resembles the top part but is somewhat
larger and is not contracted at bottom. The parts described are used in the
following manner. The collar is joined to the base by the rim of the collar being
closed over the flange of the base. The collar and base thus virtually constitute
one piece. In attaching the button the contracted end of the top part of the stem
is passed through the hole in the button and introduced into the hole in the collar
and clinched. The button with its stem in the state described is fixed to the article
of dress or fabric by passing the base of the stem through a hole in the dress or
fabric at the place where the button is to be attached and expanding the open end
of the stem on the underside of the said dress or fabric by any of the methods
employed for eyeletting.
The base may be joined to a middle part consisting of a centrally pierced disc
the said disc having a rim which rim being closed on the disc joins the two parts
together.
When the stem last described is employed its position with respect to the button
may be reversed with nearly the same effect; that is the parts I have called the
base and collar may be first joined to the button and the other part inserted in
the dress or fabric from the back. The clinching of the end of the last named
part in the hole in the collar fixes the button and stem in the dress or fabric.
My improvements further consist in making the stem of a tubular piece expanded
at top and contracted at bottom and with a small or contracted aperture. This
stem is used in combination with a back plate having a convexity at its centre in
which a central hole is pierced considerably smaller than the end of the button
stem. In the process of clinching the button the hemispherical end of the stem
forced by the pressure of the clinching process curls or rolls up the edge of the
hole in the backplate until the hole is large enough to fully admit the end of the
stem which is then expanded inside the dome. By this means the part of
the backplate around the hole is much strengthened and fitted to resist the strains

page_text: thereon. By making backplates with convexities or domes of varied heights I am
enabled to use the same length of stem for either moderately thick or very thick
fabrics the convexity or dome in the case of thick fabrics being pressed into the
fabric to meet the end of the stem which is clinched inside as before described.
These improved backplates are applicable to other button stems besides the one
described herein and especially to those made in accordance with the Patent herein-
before referred to the ends of the stems of which buttons can be made of
hemispherical form to suit the improved backplates.
Another modification of the backplate consists of an eyelet with a wide flange.
The end of the button stem enters the barrel and is clinched over the flange; ant
the same time the other end of the eyelet strikes the underside of the stem collar
and is expanded thereby nipping the cloth and strengthening the hole through
which the button stem has passed. The outer edges of the back plates may if
desired be rolled to prevent them cutting.
Another backplate for buttons is formed of a disc with a central hole the said
disc being cone shaped at its middle and turned over at its edge so as to form a
recess fitted to receive the end of the stem when it has been expanded by being
pressed on the conc.
The novel feature of this backplate is the central hole which is useful for fixing
the same.
The various parts of my invention are made of metal and by processes
in common use.
1
1
W. T. WHITEMAN,
Agent for the Applicant.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Attaching Buttons to Garments and Fabrics and
the like, which Improvements are also applicable to the
Attaching of other like Articles.
I HENRY DOWLER of the firm of Frederick Dowler and Sons, of Wainwright
Street Works, Aston, near Birmingham in the County of Warwick, Manufacturers,
do hereby declare the nature of my invention and the manner in which the same is
to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement :-
My invention has reference principally to the attaching of buttons and articles of
the kind for which Letters Patent were granted to Frederick Dowler, Henry
Dowler and Frederick Dowler Junior dated May 6th 1878 No. 1806.
My invention is however also applicable to the attachment of buttons of kinds
other than those described in the Specification of the said l'atent as well as to the
attachment of other like articles such for example as studs for purses and button
studs.
I will describe my invention in connection with a metallic button having a
central concave depression with a hole at its bottom to the attaching of which kind
of button and of other articles having a central hole my invention refers.
The button is attached by a hollow stem flanged at top which hollow stem is
made and used in the following manner. The said stem consists of three parts
namely an upper part which I will call the top; a middle part which I will call the
collar, and a lower part which I will call the base. The top consists of an eyelet
or tubular rivet, that is, a short tube flanged at top and contracted at bottom. The
collar consists of a disc with a central opening and a short tubular rim. The base
resembles the top part but is somewhat larger and is but slightly contracted at
bottom. The parts described are used in the following manner. The collar is
joined to the base by the rim of the collar being closed over the flange of the base.
The collar and base thus virtually constitute one piece. In attaching the button
the contracted end of the top part of the stem is passed through the hole in the
button and introduced into the hole in the collar and clinched. The button with

page_text: its stem in the state described is fixed to the article of dress or fabric by passing
the base of the stem through a hole in the dress or fabric at the place where the
button is to be attached and expanding the open end of the stem on the underside
of the said dress or fabric by any of the methods employed for eyeletting,
The base may be joined to a middle part constituting a centrally pierced disc,
the said base having a rim which rim being closed on the disc joins the two parts
together.
When the stem last described is employed its position with respect to the button
may be reversed with nearly the same effect; that is the parts have called the
base and collar may be first joined to the button and the other part inserted in the
dress or fabric from the back. The clinching of the end of the last named part in
the hole in the collar fixes the button and stem in the dress or fabric.
My invention further consists in making the stem of a tubular piece expanded at
top and contracted at bottom and with a small or contracted aperture. This stem
is used in combination with a backplate having a convexity at its centre in which a
central hole is pierced considerably smaller than the end of the button stem.
In the process of clinching the button the hemispherical end of the stem forced
by the pressure of the clinching process curls or rolls up the edge of the hole in the
backplate until the hole is large enough to fully admit the end of the stem which is
then expanded inside the dome. By this means the part of the back plate around
the hole is much strengthened and fitted to resist the strains thereon. By making
backplates with convexities or domes of varied heights I am enabled to use the
same length of stem for either moderately thick or very thick fabrics, the convexity
or dome in the case of thick fabrics being pressed into the fabric to meet the end of
the stem which is clinched inside as before described.
Another modification of the backplate consists of an eyelet with a wide flange.
The end of the button stem enters the barrel and is clinched over the flange, at the
same time the other end of the evelet strikes the underside of the stem collar and is
expanded thereby nipping the cloth and strengthening the hole through which the
button stem has passed. The outer edges of the back plates may if desired be
rolled to prevent them cutting.
Another backplate for buttons is formed of a disc with a central hole the said
disc being cone shaped at its middle and turned over at its edge so as to form a
recess fitted to receive the end of the stem when it has been expanded by being
pressed on the conc.
The novel feature of this backplate is the central hole which is useful for fixing
the same.
The various parts of my invention are made of metal and by processes
in common use.
I will now proceed to describe with reference to the accompanying drawing the
manner in which my invention is to be performed.
Figure 1 represents in vertical section and plan, drawn to a large scale, a metallic
button having a cupped central depression with a hole at its bottom, to which
button a hollow stem constructed according to my invention is applied for attaching
the button to the garment or fabric or material; and Figure 2 represents the eyelet
or tubular rivet in its unexpanded state used for attaching the base part of the stem
to the button.
The stem of the button a consists of three parts namely, the upper part or top
the middle part or collar c and the lower part or based the said three parts b, c, d
being joined together and to the button. The top part consists of an eyelet or
tubular rivet flanged at top and contracted at bottom as seen in Figure 2. The
collar c consists of a disc perforated at its middle and having a short tubular rim
and the base / somewhat resembles the top before the latter is expanded but is
larger than the said top. The parts constituting the stem are joined together
and to the button in the following manner. The collar c is first joined to the base d
by the rim of the said collar being closed over the flange of the base as
represented in Figure 1, the collar and base thus virtually constituting one piece.
The button is next attached to the combined base and collar of the stem by means

page_text: of the top part .
In effecting this, the contracted bottom of the eyelet & Figure 2
is passed through the hole in the cup of the button and introduced into the hole
in the collare the flange of the eyelet seating itself in the cup of the button and
by means of a pressing tool the lower end of the eyelet or top is closed on the
underside of the metal around the hole in the collar c as represented in Figure 1.
The button Figure 1 is now ready to be attached to the article of dress or fabric.
To effect this a hole is pierced in the dress or fabric where the button is to be attached
and the tubular base d of the stem is passed through the said hole and the open end
of the said base expanded or clinched upon a washer on the underside of the said
dress or fabric. The dress or fabric is thereby gripped between the collar c of the
stem and thiẹ expanded part of the base of the stem and the button thereby
attached to the dress or fabric.
Figure 3 represents in vertical section and plan another metallic cupped button
provided with a modified stem, the said stem being represented in conjunction with
a fixing eyelet which is passed through the dress or fabric from the back; Figure 4
represents the centrally pierced dise and Figure 5 the shell from which the stem or
base of the button is made. The stem or base of this button is of two pieces with
which is used a loose flanged eyelet. The base of the button is marked the bottom
edge of the said base being cupped to receive and enclose the plain centrally pierced
disc f
The shell represented in Figure 5 from which the base e Figure 3 is made
has a broad flange which is closed upon the disc and a collar formed and the
tubular part of the shell Figure 5 is then expanded in the hole in the cup of the
-button a as-represented-in-Figure 3.
The shanked button is now ready to be sent into commerce, the shell or stem
consisting of the base part e joined to the button and carrying at its collar end e
the disc attaching the shanked button Figure 3 to the dress or fabric the
separate eyelet flanged at bottom (of the kind shown in Figure 7) is passed
through a hole in the dress or fabric from the back thereof and the plain end of the
eyelet g expanded upon the upper edge of the disc enclosed in the collar e³.
The button is thereby attached to the dress or fabric, the latter being gripped
between the collare and the flange on the bottom of the expanded eyelet y as
represented in Figure 3.
Figure 6 represents in section and plan of underside another button nearly
similar to that last described and Figure 7 represents the fixing eyelet before it is
expanded upon the collar of the shank and upon the fabric.
In this button the shank consists of the base and the collar i the two parts h, i
resembling the parts d and e of the button Figure 1 inverted. The collar i having
been closed on the bottom of the base and the top of the base h expanded in the
cup of the button a the shank or stem of the button is complete and the button is
ready to be attached to the dress or fabric by means of the flanged eyelet g (shown
separately in Figure 7) passed through a hole in the dress or fabric and expanded
over the upper edge of the collar as hereinbefore described with respect to the
button Figure 3.
Figure 8 represents in vertical section another button made according to my
invention together with the backplate (shown in section and plan) used with the
same; and Figure 9 represents in vertical section and plan the button Figure 8
after it has been attached to the dress or fabric. The stem of this button is made
in two parts marked respectively k and I joined together and to the button. The
expanded top of the base part 7 is cupped and the bottom edge of the top part k of
the stem is joined to the cupped top of the base part 7 by the closing of the cup
upon the bottom edge of the said part k; the top edge of the part & being then
expanded in the cup of the button a. The cupped top of the base part constitutes
the collar of the stem. Or the two parts of the stem may be connected together by
making a cup at the lower edge of the top k and closing the said cup upon the
upper edge of the base part 1.
k
It will be seen that the base part of the stem is contracted at bottom and has

page_text: hemispherical end with a small hole in it. The backplate which I use with
It has a convexity at its centre and
he shanked button Figure 8 is marked m.
Iso a central hole smaller than the hemi-spherical end of the base part of the
tem or shank. In attaching this button the backplate mis placed under the hole
pierced in the dress or fabric, at which the button is to be attached, and the con-
racted stem of the button is forced through the hole in the dress or fabric and
hat in the back plate m. By the pressure of the clinching process the hemi-
pherical end of the stem curls or rolls up the edge of the hole in the back plate m
until the said hole is large enough to fully admit the end of the stem which is then
expanded inside the dome of the backplate as represented in Figure 9 where the
button is represented attached to the dress or fabric. By the coiling of the metal
by the clinching process around the hole in the backplate m the said hole is much
strengthened and offers great resistance to the strain which may be put upon it.
I do not limit myself to making the domed or convex back plate of the form
represented in Figures 8 and 9 as the form and height of the dome may be varied;
for example the backplate may have a dome of the shape and height represented
detached in Figure 10, marked m2, and in the attached button represented in section
in Figure 104 the said Figure 10 exhibiting the button fixed to cloth or other
fabric double the ordinary thickness and shows the raised or high domed backplate
sunk by the clinching process some distance in the cloth or fabric. The button
By using back-
represented in Figure 10 is of the kind represented in Figure 8.
plates having domes or convexities of different heights the length of the stem of
the buttons may be the same either for moderately thick or very thick fabrics, the
dome part of the backplate being raised or sunk in the fabric more or less according
to the thickness of the fabric to which the buttons are attached, the convexity or
dome in the case of thick fabrics being pressed into the fabric to meet the end of
the stem which is clinched inside the coiled part around the hole in the backplate
in the manner represented in Figure 104.
These improved backplates are applicable to other button stems besides the one
in connection with which I have described them and especially to those made in
accordance with the Patent hereinbefore referred to, the ends of the stems of the
buttons being made of a hemi-spherical form to suit the improved domed backplates.
Figure 11 represents in section and plan another backplate constructed according
to my invention. This backplate consists of an eyelet having a wide flange and
conical barrel p. When the stem of a button, say, of the kind represented in
Figure 8 by the clinching process enters the conical barrel the end of the said
stem is closed over the flange n and the top of the conical barrel of the backplate
at the same time strikes the underside of the stem collar. The top of the conical
barrel is thereby expanded under the said collar and made to nip the cloth or fabric
between itself and the flange n. The hole in the fabric through which the button
stem has passed is also strengthened.
יד
The outer edges of the several backplates described and represented may be
rolled to prevent them cutting.
Figure 12 represents in section and plan another backplate constructed according
to my invention.
This backplate which acts as a self fixing cap resembles backplates ordinarily
used for like purposes excepting that it has a central perforation which permits it
to be used in conjunction with a press or pliers having a nipple, the said central
hole being of less diameter than the bottom of the stem of the button the disc being
cone shaped at its middle marked y. The outer edge of the dome shaped disc is
By the clinching
turned back on its upper side so as to form an annular recess at r.
process the hollow stein of the button is pressed on the top. of the cone
not enter it; the said stem is thereby expanded on the outside of the cone and the
edge of the expanded stem made to enter the recess r in the backplate which
recess is then closed and its edge pressed upon the edge of the expanded stem of
The backshell is thus made to
the button and the latter fixed to the dress or fabric.
act as a self fixing cap for the stem of the button.
but does

page_text: •
In applying my improvements to the attaching of studs to purses and button and
other studs and the like to articles of dress and other articles 1 proceed in the
inanner hereinbefore described with respect to metallic buttons.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my invention
and the manner in which the same is to be performed I declare that I claim as my
invention of Improvements in attaching buttons to garments and fabrics and the
like which improvements are also applicable to the attaching of other like
articles "
-
First Making the tubular stems of metallic buttons- studs and other like
articles, by which stems the buttons or studs are attached to the garment or fabric,
of three parts joined together and to the button substantially as hereinbefore
described and illustrated in Figures 1 and 2 of the accompanying drawing.
Secondly Making the tubular stems of metallic buttons studs and other like
articles, by which stems the buttons or studs are thed to the garment or fabric,
of two pieces joined together and to the butt. buds in the ways hereinbefore
described and illustrated in Figures 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7 of the accompanying drawing,
the said tubular stems being used in conjunction with loose flanged eyelets passed
through the press or fabric from the back and expanded upon the inner edges of the
collars of the stems substantially as described and illustrated.
:
"
Thirdly Making the tubular stems of metallic buttons, studs and other like
articles of two parts joined together and to the button or stud in the manner
hereinbefore described and illustrated in Figures 8, 9 and 10% of the accompanying
drawing, the said stems having a contracted base and hemi-spherical end and being
applied and used substantially as described and illustrated.
Fourthly The convex or domed backplates hereinbefore described and
illustrated in Figures 8, 9 10 and 10 of the accompanying drawing to be used in
combination with metallic butions studs or other like articles having contracted
stems and hemi-spherical ends.
Fifthly The backplate having a wide flange and central conical barrel herein-
before described and illustrated in Figure 11 of the accompanying drawing to be used
with hollow stemmed buttons studs or other like articles for attaching the same
to garments, fabrics and the like.
LastlyThe self fixing cap like backplate with central hole hereinbefore
described and illustrated in Figure 12 of the accompanying drawing to be used
with hollow stemmed buttons studs or other like articles for attaching the same to
garments fabrics and the like.
Dated the 27th day of November 1890.
HENRY DOWLER.