Improved Method of and Machine for Sewing.
Year: 1892

page_text: Date of Application, 28th June, 1892-Accepted, 31st Dec., 1892
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improved Method of and Machine for Sewing.
I, WELCOME PENSON GAMMONS, Junior, of 108 West 61st Street, in the City
of New York, County and State of New York, United States of America,
Gentleman, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement :—
This invention consists broadly in the method of sewing the sweat-band, reed,
and recd-covering together and into hats, at one operation by an organized stitch-
forming mechanism, so as to obviate the necessity of a second handling of the hat,
to finish and attach the sweat-band thereto, and thereby reduce the cost of
manufacture; the reed and the reed-covering being secured to the sweat-band by
a whip, over-seam or irregular stitch so as to give a finished appearance; the
sweat-band being simultaneously attached to the hat-body and the process being
carried on continuously and completed in one operation.
The invention further consists in securing the sweat-band, reed and reed-covering
together by successive stitches and attaching the sweat linings to the hat by
isolated stitches which are separated by about twelve (more or less) stitches.
The invention further consists in an improved method of sewing sweat-bands to
hats and caps by zig-zag or over-seam or whip-stitch without the employment of
the reed and reed-cloth or covering, and the invention finally consists of a machine
which by slight modifications might be used for sewing sweat-bands into hats and
caps so that the stitch will cover the raw edge of the band and serve as a finish
while securing the band to the folded edge of the hat body, or by the modifications
it may be made to serve in sewing the sweat-band, reed and reed-covering together
and sewing the whole into a hat by one continuous operation.
In carrying out the first part of my invention any well-known stitch-forming
mechanism may be employed and slightly modified in the guides for giving proper
direction to the reed, the reed-covering and the sweat-band, but I prefer to employ
mechanism such as illustrated in the annexed drawing, which mechanism is also
adapted to carry out the second part of the invention, as will be presently
described.
In the said drawings:
Fig. 1 is a detail view of a portion of a stitch-forming mechanism adapted for
carrying my invention into successful operation.
Fig. 2 is a detail view of the needle plate and the several guides for the hat and
sweat linings.
Fig. 3 is a detail view of a portion of the hat showing the manner of attaching
the sweat-linings thereto.
Fig. 4 is a front elevation, partly in section of the needle-carrying bar or
arm, etc.
Figs. 5, 6, 7, and 8, are views of the component parts of the needle bar or arm.
Fig. 9 is a detail perspective view of a slightly modified form of guide for the
materials.
Fig. 10 is an inverted plan view of the same.
Figs. 11, 12, and 13, are transverse sections taken in the planes indicated by the
lines xx, y-y and respectively on Fig. 9, and
Fig. 14 is an enlarged transverse section of the guide taken in the plane indicated
by the line z-z with the hat and lining materials in position.
TD 077

page_text: Referring by letters and numerals to the said figures, and more particularly
to Figs. 1 to 3 inclusive, A indicates the reed, and B the reed-covering. The reed-
covering B is folded over the reed A, and the reed thus covered together with the
sweat-band C is properly guided to the hat D and the reed-covering is stitched to
the reed and the sweat-band and to the hat at one operation and by one continuous
process by a stitch-forming mechanism.
The head 10, looper 8, needle-bar 7, guide wheel 6, feed wheel 6, and the
guides 9 are parts of a stitch-forming mechanism and they operate in the usual
manner. The upper hat guide 2 is secured to the needle-plate 1, and supports the
sweat-band guide 3 and the combined reed-guide and reed-covering folder 5; the
back-guide 6 for the hat is attached to the lower edge of the guide 2. The lower
trough-shape guide 8 for the sweat-band is conveniently supported.
The combined reed guide and reed-cover folder 5 is of an inverted trough-shape,
having its edge portion a, recurved and between and approximately parallel with
the sides of the guide and supporting a tube or funnel 6, which is secured to the
top edge thereof. The tube, is the reed guide and the inverted trough shaped
portion the folder.
In the practical operation of the first part of my invention the reed A, reed-
cover B, and sweat-band C composing the sweat-linings are guided to their proper
positions by the guides herein before described and are stitched together and to the
hat in the manner aforesaid. The style of stitching will depend upon the character
of the stitch-forming mechanism and I do not wish to be understood as confining
myself to any particular mechanisni for accomplishing the aforesaid objects, but
wish to claim the method which may be accomplished by various means.
For carrying out the first part of my invention as above described, the needle
bar 7 may be of any approved construction, but for carrying out the second part of
the invention, which consists in securing the sweat-band, reed, and reed-covering
together by successive stitches, and attaching the same to the hat by isolated
stitches, which are separated by about twelve (more or less) stitches, the needle
bar 7 as illustrated in Figs. 4 to 8 is employed.
The body bar 27 of this needle bar 7 is fixed on the rock-shaft 28 journaled in
the bracket arm of a sewing machine, and the said body bar is shouldered adjacent
to its upper end and is provided with a pawl 29 designed and adapted to engage
the peripheral teeth 30 of the wheel 31 to prevent backward movement of the
said wheel, which is loosely mounted upon the rock-shaft so that its toothed
portion will rest within the shouldered portion of the bar 27 as better shown in
Fig. 4.
This wheel 31 which is provided with a peripheral cam 32 as shown, has
a portion cut away at a diametrically-opposite point to the cam 32 as shown
at 33 for a purpose presently described.
Connected to the bracket arm or other suitable part of the machine is a pawl 34
(see Figure 1) which is designed and adapted to engage the teeth of the wheel 31
so as to rotate said wheel a slight distance at each inward stroke of the needle arm.
The slidable section 35 of the needle arm is provided at intermediate points in
its length with elongated slots as 36 to receive the lateral Ings or screws 37 of the
body bar 27, so as to permit of a limited sliding movement of the said section 35, on
the body bar. This slidable section 35 which carries the needle, is also provided
adjacent to its upper end with a shoulder 38 designed to be engaged by the cam 32
of the wheel 31, and the said slidable section terminates at its upper end in a
loop 39 which loop is preferably of a general rectangular form and is designed and
adapted to receive that portion of the wheel 31 which bears the cut-away portion 33,
as better shown in Fig. 4.
By this construction it will be seen that at each inward stroke of the needle arm
or bar, the pawl on the bracket arm will engage the teeth of the wheel 31 and will
rotate the wheel a slight distance until the cut-away portion 33 of said wheel rests
parallel with the upper end wall of the loop 39, and the cam 32 of said wheel
engages the shoulder 38 of the slidable section 35 when the said slidable section 35

page_text: will be forced downward by the cam 32, so that upon the succeeding inward stroke
of the needle bar or arm the needle will traverse a path below its normal path and
will not only take through the sweat-band and the reed cloth but will also take
through the folded edge of the hat to effect a connection of said sweat-band and
cloth to the hat.
Thus the reed cloth and the sweat-band are connected together by successive
stitches, and are connected to the folded edge of the hat by isolated stitches
arranged at suitable predetermined intervals apart, the length of the intervals being
governed by the number of teeth on the wheel 31.
In Figs. 9 to 14 of the drawing I have shown a modified construction of
guide D for the hat and the lining materials. This guide D' preferably comprises
the body 50, the plate 51 having the notch 52 for the passage of the needle, the
reed guide 53, the reed cover folder and guide 54 having the depending front
guide 55 for the hat, the guide 56 for the sweat-band and a screw or other
suitable means for connecting the parts together.
The body 50 of the guide D' is suitably connected to the base of the machine at
a proper point with respect to the path of the needle, and the wheels 6, 6, and
when a guide as D' is employed, the peripheries of the wheels 6, 6", are bevelled,
and the guide is inclined in accordance with the bevelled peripheries of the said
wheels so as to hold the materials in an inclined position and facilitate the
operation.
The third part of my invention is carried out in the following manner, and
illustrated in Figures 15 and 16. I first adjust the sweat-hand on the inside of
the hat and support it by any suitable means. I then pass the needle carrying the
thread first through the leather and then through the folded edge of the hat-body
but not through the hat so as to be seen on the outside. The thread is then
retained so as to form the loop a, and the needle returned through the folded edge
of the hat and from without inwardly through the leather or in a reverse direction
to the first described stitch. The needle is then brought up from the leather as
shown at b, in Fig. 15, and carried through the loop a, where the thread is again
retained so as to form a loop e, approximately at right angles to the loop a. One
branch 'd, of this loop e, is then returned and carried through the loop a, after.
which it is carried back and over the loop c, and down again through the leather
and folded edge of the hat so as to form a second loop a, and so on until the band
has been secured in position.
1 thus form what I call a concealed whip over-stitch which is very durable and
effective and serves to cover the raw edge of the sweat-band by having the
interlocked portion of the thread placed thereon.
The form shown in Fig. 16 of the drawings is what I call zig-zag or overseam
stitch and differs from that shown in Fig. 15 first in that the thread forming the
loop has its continuous branch beneath the loop a' instead of above it, and the
branches are carried obliquely so as to present the zig-zag appearance.
In Figs. 15 and 16 A indicates the side wall of a crown of an ordinary hat;
B.the rim, and C the sweat-band or leather.
The fourth part of my invention relates more particularly to a machine for sewing
sweat-bands into hats and caps without the employment of a reed or reed-cloth,
although with slight modifications it can be made to serve in sewing a reed within
its cover, the leather to the reed-cloth, and then sewing the whole into the hat-body
by one continuous operation.
In the embodiment of this part of my invention I have shown in Fig. 17 of the
drawing a front elevation of my improved machine complete, a hat and sweat-band
being illustrated in a position to be sewed.
Fig. 18 is a top plan view of the same.
Fig. 19 is a detail top plan view of the resilient plate carrying the feed-wheel
and the slide plate carrying the guide-wheel, together with a portion of the
lever connected with the latter plate, in conjunction with other levers to manipulate
the same.

page_text: Fig. 20 is a detail perspective view of the levers adapted to manipulate the
slide plate.
Fig. 21 is a perspective view of the needle plate removed.
Fig. 22 is a similar view of the same looking at the lower side thereof.
Fig. 23 is a side elevation of the cam wheel for actuating the take-up lever.
A indicates the bed-plate; B the overhanging arm and the power shaft. On
one end of the shaft C is the ordinary band pulley D, and on opposite end is a
gear-wheel E which meshes with a pinion F upon the upper end of a vertically-
disposed rotatable shaft G. The wheel E is twice as large as wheel F, so that the
latter makes two revolutions while the former makes one.
Fulcrumed on a vertical post H rising from arm B is a lever I to the forward
end of which is pivotally connected one end of a pitman J the opposite end of which
is connected to à crank pin on the pinion F.
Journaled at the forward end of the arm B is a transversely disposed shaft K
which carries a crank L at its rear end which is pivotally connected to one end of
a pitman M which in turn is pivotally connected at its opposite end to the rear end
of the lever I from which a reciprocatory motion is imparted to said rocking
shaft K, upon the forward end of which is fixed the needle carrying arm N in the
lower end of which the curved and eyed needle P is suitably fixed.
The needle arm is adjustable longitudinally on the shaft K to permit the needle
to be properly adjusted to the looper. The hub of the crank L serves as a stop
against, the rear bearing of the shaft to prevent a longitudinal forward movement
of the latter and a coiled spring K on the shaft between the rear bearing and a
removable collar holds the shaft in proper position.
Through the medium of the construction thus far described it will be readily
seen that the needle carrying arm is vibrated by the oscillations of the shaft K
and the vertical shaft G which carries the looper is rotated from the power
shaft C.
Fixed upon the shaft C is a disk R which is provided with cams at intervals
upon its periphery designed to engage the ordinary thread controlling lever S for
taking up the slack in the thread.
Attached at one of its ends by screws or the like to a platform extending from
the upright branch of the hanger arın B is the resilient or spring metal plate T
which is reduced on its forward side adjacent its free end for a purpose presently
set forth.
Journaled on a short shaft depending from the plate T near its outer end is a
ratchet feed wheel U designed to be engaged by a pawl, whereby the wheel is
turned and the work fed a slight distance at each depression of the plate T.
Pivotally connected to the front side of a branch V depending from hanger B
is the pawl W to engage the wheel U.
The branch V is hollow and in this bore is seated a plunger X which bears at
its lower end upon the plate T and is provided at its upper end with a friction
roller designed to be engaged by a cam Y fixed upon the shaft C so that at each
revolution of said shaft, the plate T will be depressed, whereby it will be seen
that the reciprocating needle will alternately take through the sweat-band and hat
and over the edges thereof.
As illustrated. by broken lines in Fig. 19 the plate T is provided with longi-
tudinal slots for the reception of screws a, a, which pass through the same and
screw into the plate Z and the latter is also provided toward its front end with a
slot for the reception of the screw b, which screws into the plate T. These screws
serve the double purpose of holding the two plates together and guiding the plate Z
in its reciprocating movements.
The plate Z is capable of being reciprocated longitudinally on the plate T, the
limit of movement being determined by the length of the slots through which the
screws a, a, b, pass, and it is held normally in its retracted position by a spring 20,
one end of which for convenience is attached to one of the screws a, and the other
end to a screw or pin a' projecting from the under side of plate T.

page_text: At its forward end the plate Z is recessed as shown and is provided with an
angular branch upon which is mounted a guide wheel A¹ which rests in alignment
with the wheel U and is adapted to clamp the hat and sweat-band against the
periphery thereof. Fulcrumed at one end to the upright branch of the hanger arm
is a hand lever 2, which is provided with an angular branch 3, to which is con-
nected one end of a coiled retracting spring 4 which is connected at its opposite
end to the upright branch of hanger arm adjacent to the bed plate.
At a suitable point upon the inside of the lever 2 is formed a lug 5 upon
which rests one end of an arm 6 which is notched as shown and embraces the
lever.
The upper end of the arm 6 bears and slides against the lower side of the plate T
and it is provided with a lateral branch to receive one end of a lever 7 which takes
up through a longitudinal slot in the plate T and a square opening in the plate Z
which latter plate it serves to move forward, as will be presently described.
At its upper end the lever 7 is pivotally connected to the hanger arm B and it
will thus be seen that by throwing the lever 2 to the left as viewed in Figs. 17
and 19 the plate Z and its guide wheel A' will be also moved to the left, carrying
the said guide wheel away from the feed wheel U to permit the hat and sweat-band
to be conveniently put into or taken from the machine. When the lever 2 is
released the spring 20 will return all the parts to their normal positions.
Connected in a suitable manner to the bed plate A at a proper point below the
guide and feed wheels is a slotted horizontal bar 8 which is designed to receive the
standard 9 of the hat supporting frame.
Connected to the upper end of the standard 9 are the radial branches d, of the
hat supporting frame upon the outer ends of which the vertically disposed spring
band 10 is mounted and secured, and this band has its ends slotted at 11 and
adjustably connected by bolts and nuts 12.
Attached by screws to the front side of the plate 121 is a plate 13 which extends
almost to the lower edge of the plate 121 and is provided with a depending flange
which is flared slightly outward and extends below the edge of said plate 12' and
affords a guide for the sweat-band. Attached to the rear side of the needle
plate 12 is a plate 14 the lower edge of which rests in a plane slightly below the
edge of the needle plate and serves as a keeper for the folded edge of the hat which
rests against the lower edge of the needle plate and is thereby retained in a slightly
lower plane than the sweat-band as is desirable.
The plate 13 is provided in the lower edge of its depending flange at a suitable
point with a recess 15 and the plate 14 is provided adjacent its lower edge with a
slot 16 for the passage of the needle.
Upon the lower end of the vertical shaft G is fixed the looper 17.
In operation the hat and sweat-band are mounted as has been described and
are clamped between the friction feed and guide wheels so that the band will rest
between the flange of the plate 13 and the needle plate, while the folded edge of
the hat will rest beneath the needle plate and against the plate 14. The machine
is then started when the needle takes through the leather and the hat, but by
reason of the needle being curved upwardly it passes upward in a slanting direction
after passing through the sweat-band, its path being through the edge of the fold
so that the stitches will not show on the outside of the hat body. When the
needle reaches the end of its inward stroke, the looper 17 engages the thread and
takes an inwardly directed loop therefrom and the needle on its return stroke
carries the thread through the hat and band in an opposite direction to the first
named stitch. At the beginning of the next inward stroke of the needle, the
plate T will be depressed when the needle will take over the hat and sweat-band and
through the inwardly directed loop. The thread is then engaged by the looper 17
and another loop is formed. The needle then returning carries back one of the
branches of the latter loop after which it is carried back and over the said latter
loop and then through the folded edge of the hat so as to form a second loop and
so on until the band has been secured.

page_text: Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is
1. The herein described method of simultaneously securing the reed, the reed-
cover, and the sweat-band together, and attaching the same to a hat by one operation
in an organized stitch-forming mechanism, substantially as specified.
2. The herein described method of simultaneously securing the reed, the reed-
cover, and the sweat-band together by successive stitches, and attaching the same
to a hat by stitches at desired intervals apart at one operation by an organized
stitch forming mechanism, substantially as specified.
3. The herein described method of simultaneously guiding the reed, the reed-
cover, and the sweat-band to a stitch-formning mechanism in proper relation and
stitching them together and to the hat at one operation and by one continuous
process, substantially as specified.
4. As an improvement in seams of sewed articles, a fold of one part, an edge
of another part applied to the fold and a thread arranged to form parallel stitches
through the edge part and the fold, a loop for each pair of stitches traversing the
edge, and loops connecting the transverse loops and laying in the edge, whereby the
parts are united and the edge covered, substantially as specified.
5. In a hat sewing machine, the combination with the main shaft, and with the
sewing mechanism, of spring-supported feed and guide wheels, a cam on the main
shaft for depressing said wheels at intervals, and a pawl for engaging the feed
wheel, and a support for said pawl, substantially as shown and described.
6. In a hat sewing machine, the combination with the main shaft and with the
sewing mechanism, of rotatable guide and feed wheels to clamp and hold the hat to
be sewed, a spring-support for said wheels, a cam on the main shaft for depressing
said support and wheels at intervals, and a pawl pivoted on a branch depending
from the overhanging arm B of the machine for rotating the feed wheel, substantially
as shown and described.
7. In a sewing machine the combination with the main frame, and a horizontal
plate carrying a rotatable feed wheel, of a second plate movably connected to the
first plate and carrying a guide wheel, a lever pivotally connected at one end to the
frame and also connected with the movable plate, a plate connected with the lower
end of said lever, a lever pivotally connected at one end to the machine and bearing
against the lower end of said last named plate a coiled spring connected at one end
to the last named lever and at its opposite end to the frame, and a coiled spring
connected at one end to the supporting plate and at its opposite end to the movable
plate, substantially as specified.
8. In a machine for sewing sweat-bands in hats, the combination with a
horizontal vertically movable and step-by-step rotative feed wheel, of a yielding
support for said wheel, a pivoted pawl for rotating said feed wheel, a support for
the pawl fixed to the frame of the machine, and a support to co-operate with the
feed wheel in supporting and feeding the material, substantially as specified.
9. In a sewing machine, the combination with a rotatable friction feed wheel
and a guide wheel arranged adjacent thereto and mounted on yielding supports, of
a plunger interposed between a cam and the supports for said wheels, and the cam
adapted to contact with the plunger and depress said wheels at intervals,
substantially as specified..
10. In a sewing machine the combination with the main frame and a resilient or
spring plate connected at one end thereto and carrying a friction wheel and a guide
wheel adjacent thereto, of the power shaft a vertically movable pin seated in the
sleeve and bearing at its lower end upon the plate, a cam fixed on the shaft in
aligument with the pin and adapted to engage the same to depress the plate, and a
pawl pivoted to the stationary part of the frame and engaging ratchet teeth on the
feed wheel, substantially as specified.
11. In a hat sewing machine, the combination with the main shaft, and with

page_text: the sewing mechanism, of spring-supported feed and guide wheels, a cam on the
main shaft for depressing said wheels at intervals, substantially as shown and
described.
12. In a hat sewing machine, the combination with the main shaft and with the
sewing mechanism, of rotatable guide and feed wheels to clamp and hold the hat to
be sewed, a spring-support for said wheels, a cam on the main shaft for depressing
said support and wheels at intervals, and a pawl for rotating the feed wheel,
substantially as shown and described.
13. In a sewing machine, the combination with the main frame and power shaft,
of the resilient plate connected at one end to the frame, devices intermediate of
the power shaft and plate adapted at intervals to depress the latter, a friction feed
wheel journaled on the plate and having ratchet teeth on its upper side, a pivotally
mounted depending pawl adapted to engage and move the friction wheel after each
depression of the plate and a guide wheel arranged adjacent to the feed wheel,
substantially as and for the purpose described.
14. In a sewing machine, the combination with the main frame and a resilient
or spring plate connected at one end thereto and carrying a friction feed wheel and
a guide wheel adjacent thereto, of the power shaft, a vertically movable pin seated
in a sleeve and bearing at its lower end upon the plate, a cam fixed on the shaft
in alignment with the pin, and adapted to engage the same to depress the plate,
substantially as specified.
15. In a sewing machine, the combination with the inain frame, and a slotted
bar connected thereto, of a hat-support comprising a standard adapted to be
adjustably fixed in said slotted bar, and an expansible band connected with said
standard, substantially as and for the purpose specified.
16. In a machine for sewing sweat-bands in hats, the combination with a
horizontal feed wheel adapted to move vertically, and having a step-by-step
rotative movement produced alternately with its vertical movement, of a suitable
support for said wheel, substantially as specified.
17. In a machine for sewing sweat-bands in hats the combination with the sewing
mechanism, of a feed wheel arranged to rotate in a horizontal plane, a yielding
support for said feed wheel whereby it is adapted to be moved vertically, a guide wheel
carried by the said support, and capable of being moved from and towards the feed
wheel, and means for operating said feed and guide wheels, substantially as shown
and described.
18. In a machine for sewing sweat-bands in hats, the combination of a feed
wheel and a guide wheel both arranged to rotate in the same horizontal plane, a
yielding support for said wheels whereby they are adapted to be moved vertically,
the guide wheel being journaled on a plate attached to and movable on said
yielding support whereby it is adapted to be moved from and towards the feed
wheel and means for operating said wheel, substantially as shown and described.
19. A sewing machine having an organised stitch forming mechanism, in com-
bination with a guide adapted to receive the sweat leather, reed, and reed cloth
respectively, and also a hat said mechanism being adapted to form a series of
stitches through and over the leather, cloth and reed, and at predetermined
intervals secure the parts thus united to the folded edge of the hat, substantially
as and for the purpose set forth.
121
لنعم
1
CT
1000
JENSEN & SON,
77, Chancery Lane, London, W.C., Patent Agents.