IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINERY
Year: 1866

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Alfred Vincent Newton, of the Office for Patents,
66, Chancery Lane, in the County of Middlesex, Mechanical Draughts-
man, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINERY."-A
communication from abroad by James Alford House and Henry Alonzo
House, both of Brooklyn, in the State of New York, United States of
America.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Alfred Vincent Newton
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petitiou, on the
5th July 1866.
I, ALFRED VINCENT NEWTON, of the Office for Patents, 66, Chancery Lane,
in the County of Middlesex, Mechanical Draughtsman, do hereby declare
the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINERY,'
to be as follows:-
The chief object of this Invention is to adapt to sewing machines of well-.
known construction apparatus that will serve to work button holes automati-
cally. In adapting the Wheeler and Wilson machine to the sewing of
button holes the following modifications are effected:-The mechanism for
A

page_text: feeding and vibrating the cloth under the needle, and turning it, is carried by
a vibrating bed plate which is fulcrumed at one end on the table of the
machine; this mechanism receives its motion from a spooling pin screwed
into and forming a continuation of the main driving shaft; upon this spooling
pin a switch cam is mounted, and into the grooves of this cam enters a
swivelling switch, which is carried by a jog bar (or sliding bar) mounted in
guides in the under side of the table; the rotation of this switch cam gives an
endway motion to the jog bar, from which the vibrating motions of the cloth
are derived, as will be presently explained. The vibrating bed plate has a
circular opening cut in it to receive a disc plate which is pierced at its centre
to allow of the vertical needle playing through it; this disc plate is slotted to
receive sliding couplings which serve to connect it with a sliding plate to which
the clamp for holding the cloth is attached, and by which the cloth is
traversed to and fro under the needle; this sliding plate is intended to receive
a semi-rotation when one side of the button hole is completed, and thus to
bring round the other side of the button hole under the action of the needle.
The axial motion is given to the sliding plate by means of a hand lover.
Attached to the sliding plate are two half nuts carried by springs, and slots
are made through the plate (and on opposite sides of its axis) under the nuts
to allow of their threads alternately taking into the thread of a traversing
screw, which serves to give the sliding motion to the plate; this traversing
screw is mounted in bearings (one of which is detachable) on the under side
of the vibrating plate above mentioned, and on its outer end is fixed a star
wheel. An intermittent rotary motion is given to the traversing screw by
means of pins projecting from the end of the switch cam, whereby a traverse
motion is imparted to the sliding plate. The back traverso of the cloth for
sewing the second edge of the button hole is obtained by giving a half turn to
the sliding plate and bringing the other half nut into gear with the traversing
screw. The sliding plate and the clamp which it carries are both slotted the
length of the largest button hole required to be sewn, and projecting through
the slot in the plate is the nose of the stitching plate which is screwed to the
under side of the vibrating bed plate of the machine and serves to support the
cloth around the needle. In .order to convert. the reciprocating motion of
the jog bar into a vibrating motion required for the vibrating bed plate, through
the jog bar, a quadrant slot is made, and under this and upon the bar an.
adjustable plate which binds by means of a spring and screw upon the bar
sufficiently to retain the position in which it is set. A diagonal slot is made
through this plate to receive a pin which projects from the under. side of the
vibrating. plate and through the table of the machine. According, therefore,

page_text: to the angle at which this slot of the adjustable plate is set with respect to the
line of motion of the jog bar so will the amount of vibration of the bed plate
be increased or diminished, and it is through the vibrations of this plate that
the needle is enabled to form the "over stitch" required in making button
holes. It should be stated that in order to adjust longitudinally the vibratory
motion of the bed plate to suit the position of the needle the fulcrum pin is
carried by a radius bar, and a cam adjustment is also provided for regulating
the position of the jog bar, and the plate which it carries, in order at pleasure
to vary laterally the position of the bed plate so as always to keep the nose of
the stitching plate in a proper position relatively to the needle. The clamp
for holding the cloth down upon the sliding plato is grooved longitudinally on
its under face, as is also the sliding plate around its central slot, so that when
the clamp is brought into position it will stretch the cloth and hold it taut
under the action of the needle.
In order to work a button hole and finish it on both sides without turning
the fabric in which it is worked the following modification is employed :-
The vibrating plate which carries the work receives both a lateral and an
endway motion. The lateral motion is transmitted to it from the jog bar, as
in the above-described arrangement, that bar being slotted diagonally to
receive a pin from a rock lever which has at one end a shifting fulcrum and
at the other a pin that enters a slot formed in the bed plate. The endway
motion is derived from a scroll cam, in the groove of which a pin from the
rear end of tho vibrating bed plate takes; this cam carries a ring of ratchet
teeth into which a forked tumbler takes for the purpose of driving it
alternately in opposite directions; this forked tumbler is carried by a slotted
radius arm, having its fulcrum on the axle of the scroll cam. The radius arni
also carries a forked lever, which embraces a finger on the forked tumbler an-l
is intended to throw it over from one side to the other of the centre of a stop
or retaining spring affixed to the radius arm; this arm is connected to and
receives a vibrating motion from the jog bar through a jointed arm that carries a
clamping screw for entering the slot of the radius arm and clamping the arms
together so as to regulate the amount of motion transmitted. As the radius arm
vibrates it will cause the forked tumbler to act upon the ratchet teeth of the
scroll cam, and by rotating it move the bed plate to and from the axis of the
cam. This is the motion that produces the automatic to-and-fro traverse of
the work under the needle. The reversing of the traverse motion is éffected
in the following manner :-Attached loosely to the vibrating bed plate is a
slide which receives an endway motion from the bed plate, and connected with
0

page_text: this slide is a bar which carries stop pieces. In the space between these stop
pieces a pin from the forked lever before mentioned projects, and as one or
other of the stops comes in contact with this pin the forked tumbler is
thrown over into a reversed position and the direction of rotation of the ratchet
teeth will immediately be reversed.
As an improvement in the clamp for holding the work, of whatever thickness,
on the bed plate, there is fitted below the shoulder of the clamp a conical nut
which works freely on a screw fixed in the plate and enters a conical recess
made in the shoulder of the clamp. The clamp is held down as usual, and by
having a bearing on the conical nut it is able to adjust itself to the work
placed below it so that a parallel pressure is obtained over the whole under
surface of the clamp. The stitching plate is secured to the table and made
adjustable thereon to prevent the needle striking its edges and to ensure a
uniform pull upon the loop of the needle thread.
I will now describe a further modification of mechanism for sewing button
holes automatically, which is capable of being attached to the sewing machine
either side up. The mechanism is enclosed in a shell case and the button
hole may be worked either above or below the bed plate to which it is
attached; the work is secured by a clamp attached to a sliding bar, which is
fitted in a groove formed for it across a rotating disc; this disc is mounted in
a ring formed in one extremity of a vibrating lever, which lever at its other
extremity has a smaller ring that fits on to an axle that constitutes its fulcrum ;
the vibrating lever is connected by means of a bell crank lever to a jog bar,
which is actuated in any convenient manner, and works in fixed guides as in
the former arrangements. A pin on the crank lever enters an inclined slot
in the jog bar, and the endway motions of this bar consequently give a
vibrating motion to the lever which carries the work; the jog bar is con-
nected by a link to a quadrant which vibrates on the axle forming the fulcrum
of the vibrating lever; this quadrant carries a pawl, which takes into a
ratchet wheel also centred on the same axle and fitted with a spur pinion;
in gear with this pinion is a rack bar which terminates in a ring that embraces
a slotted disc affixed to the sliding bar before mentioned; this rack bar is
connected with the vibrating lever by means of a screw pin which enters a
slot made lengthwise of the vibrating lever, and which serves to allow of the
rack bar moving endwise without interference from the vibrating lever, while
both bar and lever vibrate together through the action of the jog bar as
before mentioned. Mounted on the rack bar is an adjustable stop piece
which is intended to hold out of action a pawl provided for rotating the

page_text: grooved disc that carries the sliding bar before mentioned. A ring of teeth is
formed on this grooved disc, into which takes a spring pawl that is operated
by being jointed to a radius arm which is vibrated by a pin on the radius arm
taking into a slot cut in the jog bar; this spring pawl is held out of contact
with the ring of teeth by means of a swing bar which carries a stud; the
stud at the time of commencing a button hole bears upon the stop piece
carried by the rack bar, and when the rack bar is moved longitudinally (in the
act of traversing the work under the needle) the full length of the button
hole the stud will become free of the stop piece and allow its swing bar to
move inwards. The pressure put on the spring pawl will thus be removed
and it will immediately come into operation and drive round the grooved disc
together with the work clamped on the sliding bar. The effect of this move-
ment will be to throw back the rack bar out of gear with its pinion, and slide
back that bar to its starting position, in order that it may again traverse the
work under the action of the needle to sew the opposite edge of the button
hole; while this is being effected a half turn will be given to the work by
means of the spring pawl, so as to reverse its position in the machine. The
half turn is secured by means of spring stops.
As it is of primary importance in sewing by machinery to have the cloth
held rigidly at the point where it receives the stitches that it may properly
receive the puncture of the needle and the pull of the thread in tightening
the stitch, more especially in stitching button holes automatically, the following
contrivance is provided:-The opening in the table, through which the needle
passos, is surrounded with a ring of india-rubber and the clamp is so formed
that while holding the material to be stitched it shall be pressed upon the
rubber and held taut to receive the stitches with an elastic pressure that will
act uniformly, though the material being sewn may be of varying thicknesses.
The ring of india-rubber is secured to the plate by a metal washer that com-
presses the rubber on its outer edge and holds it snugly and permanently, but
permits it to rise above the washer at its inner edge, so as to let the material
to be sewn rest upon the rubber, the inner edge of which is parallel with the
opening; a presser resting at its heel on a guide pin and a spiral spring
surrounding a screw stud has a flared margin curved on its under side in a
concave to form a sharp edge that will rest against and fit the inner edge
of the rubber, where it surrounds and rises above the opening in the
plate.
The last improvement relates to the Wheeler and Wilson hook; the
perimeter of this hook is nearly circular, while the body of the hook varies in
thickness so that when the hook draws the loop of the needle thread to spread

page_text: it and pass it around the shuttle bobbin the loop may pass smoothly off of the
hook, but as the loop of needle thread has to be detained a short time by
a presser pad or brush it is found that the uniform size of the hook does not
release the loop of needle thread as easily as is desirable after and while passing
the presser pad. To enable the loop of the needle thread to pass the presser
pad more easily, and when passed to escape lightly from the hook the back of
the hook is chamfered so as to relieve it from bearing against the whole
surface of the presser pad. The loop of the needle thread will therefore
escape freely after passing the pad.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Alfred Vincent Newton in the Great Seal Patent Office on
the 5th January 1867.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, ALFRED
VINCENT NEWTON, of the Office of Patents, 66, Chancery Lane, in the County
of Middlesex, Mechanical Draughtsman, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Fifth day of July, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and sixty-six, in the thirtieth year of Her reign,
did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the
said Alfred Vincent Newton, Her special licence that I, the said Alfred
Vincent Newton, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others
as I, the said Alfred Vincent Newton, my executors, administrators, and assigns,
should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at
all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully
might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for
"IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINERY," being a communication from abroad
by James Alford House and Henry Alonzo House, both of Brooklyn, New
York State, United States of America, upon the condition (amongst others)
that I, the said Alfred Vincent Newton, my executors or administrators, by an
instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals,
should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention,
and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same
to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months
next and immediately aftor the date of the said Letters Patent.

page_text: NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Alfred Vincent Newton, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is
to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement, reference being had to the Drawings hereunto annexed,
and to the letters and figures marked thereon (that is to say) :-
This Invention consists in certain arrangements of machinery to be applied
to sewing machines for effecting the sewing of button holes.
In Sheet I. of the accompanying Drawings I have shewn an arrangement
of mechanism which constitutes the first head of this Invention.
Fig. 1 represents a top view of a Wheeler and Wilson sewing machine to
which the Invention is applied; Fig. 2 is a partial front elevation of the same;
Fig. 3 is a view of the under side of the table with the improvements
applied thereto; Fig. 4 is a top view of the table shewing the bed plate and
the parts in connection therewith; Fig. 5 is a transverse section of the table
shewing the bed plate also in section; Fig. 6 is a top view of the revolving
plate carrying the clamp and feeding nuts and other devices for regulating
its motions; Fig. 7 is a view of the under side of the revolving plate, and
Fig. 8 is a cross section at the line 1, 2, of Fig. 6; Fig. 9 is a top view, and
Fig. 10 a view of the under side of the gib plate, and Fig. 11 is a cross
section in the line 3, 4, of Fig. 9; Figures 12 are a plan of the under side
and an edge view of the throw lever; Figures 13 are plan and edge views of
the slide bar; Fig. 14 shews in inverted plan the bed plate detached, but
with the feeding screw star toothed pinion for driving the same and stitching
plate applied thereto, and Fig. 15 is an edge view of the same.
It is the object of this part of the Invention to work button holes auto-
matically, and to this end the Invention consists.
First, in operating the feeding and vibrating the cloth holding mechanism
from a spooling pin screwed into and forming a continuation of the main shaft
of the sewing machine.
Second, in a bed plate fulcrumed at one end, vibrated at the other end, and
carrying the feeding and cloth holding and turning mechanism.
Third, in a revolving reciprocating feeding plate to support the material
in which the button hole is to be worked, and carrying the clamp for the
material, the lever by which it is turned, and the spring feeding nuts.
Fourth, in an adjustable stitching plate pierced for the needle to pass
through and attached to the vibrating plate.
Fifth, in the employment of a centre plate and gibs to guide the feeding
plate and unite it with the vibrating plate by square or dovetailed grooves.
Sixth, in a dog lever fulcrumed in the gib plate with a block cramp resting

page_text: in a slot in the feeding plate, which leaves the plate free to reciprocate, and
enables the lever to rotate the plate to reverse its movements.
Seventh, in a clamping lever attached to the feed plate and set at an angle
to its button hole slot to permit the button hole to be worked longitudinally
with the goods or at a right or any less angle thereto.
Eighth, in grooving the clamp longitudinally so that when in position it
will stretch the cloth and hold it taut when receiving the puncture and
resisting the pull of the needle.
Ninth, in feeding the revolvable plate intermittently forward or backward
by a single screw to space the stitches or finish the ends of the button hole.
Tenth, in connecting the feeding plate to the screw by spring half nuts so
that while the screw only rotates in one direction the motion of the feeding
plate may be reversed.
Eleventh, in rotating the screw intermittently by adjustable pins located on
the switch cam and secured to the spooling pin.
Twelfth, in a switch cam located on the spooling pin for reciprocating the
jog bar that vibrates the front end of the bed plate.
Thirteenth, in swivelling the switch on the heel of the jog bar that the
longitudinal movement of the latter may be uniform though the bed plate may
have greater or less vibration.
Fourteenth, in the adjustable slide bar attached to the jog bar to vibrate the
bed plate from a pin in the plate working in a slot in the lever.
Fifteenth, in a shield cap carrying a supporting stud to attach the feeding
screw to the bed plate and facilitate its removal.
Sixteenth, in an adjusting lever fulcrumed in the frame or table to adjust
the longitudinal position of the bed plate in proper relation to the needle.
Seventeenth, in the slotted guide for the jog bar and imparting thereto a
transverse vibratory motion by an excentric arm or lever to control and
regulate the position of the bed plate in relation to the needle.
Eighteenth, in the combination of a friction spring and adjustable stops
with the throw lever, to give it a yielding pressure and a determined
position.
Nineteenth, in attaching a pin, plate, or disc to the switch cam, so that
the vibrating bed plate and revolvable feeding plate shall harmonize in
motions to work a button hole while both are actuated by the rotation of the
same cam.
In the accompanying Drawings, which exemplify one way of carrying out
the objects of the Invention, the improvement is shown as adapted to the
Wheeler and Wilson sewing machine. A is the base plate of a Wheeler

page_text: and Wilson sewing machine; B is an opening cut in the table C to receive
the feeding screw D, which is carried by suitable bearings. Upon the table C
is pivotted the bed plate E, which receives a limited vibratory movement over
the surface of the table. The main driving shaft F is drilled centrally in the
rear end, and furnished with a screw thread so cut that the screw will tend to
tighten as the main shaft rotates in its proper direction, a spooling pin G
having a proper screw cut thereon is screwed firmly into the main shaft, and
constitutes a prolongation thereof, of course revolving with it. Upon this
spooling pin G is secured in any proper manner the switch cam H, which
carries at its side a pin plate or disc I, through which the required movements
of the bed plate E and the reciprocating movements of the revolvable feeding
plate O are imparted; it will hence be seen that in adapting the Invention
thus to the sewing machine nothing is added to the friction of its operative
mechanism. The bed plate E is circular at its front and prolonged at its
rear, with a central opening a, as shown in Fig. 14; it supports on its under
side the feeding screw D and the adjustable stitching plate L, and when in
position rests upon the table C, the screw passing into the opening B, and
the plate is allowed a determined vibration on the table, it being fulcrumed
on an adjusting lever s attached to the under side of the table. The central
opening a in the bed plate E is filled with a flanged centre plate M
(Figures 9, 10, and 11), which has parallel grooves b, b, across its under
surface to receive gibs N; these gibs move longitudinally in the grooves, and
the grooves have slots c, c, through them to enable central projections N' on
the upper side of the gibs to project through the plate M, and be secured to
the revolving feeding plate O by screws 1, 2, 3, 4. The centre plate M has
a central opening d to receive the eyelet needle guile e in the end of the
stitching plate L, the needle eyelet guide e being long enough to pass through
the bed plate E, and project into the central opening in the feeding plate O
(see Fig. 5). The stitching plate is slotted at f and f¹ to permit of its
receiving a longitudinal adjustment, in order that the needle may always
enter the eyelet guide without touching it; thus the perimeter of the centre
plate M resting on the flange in the bed plate E is prevented from passing
through the central opening a, and the screws 1, 2, 3, 4, in the gibs N unite
it securely to the feeding plate O, and leave both the centre and feeding plate
free to be revolved when desired, while the gibs being attached to the feeding
plate allow it a free longitudinal reciprocation for the length of the slots or
for the distance required for any sized button hole. The feeding plate O
rests evenly upon the bed plate E, and it is slotted at 9 and g¹, and has square
holes cut in it at h and h¹, the slot 9 being across its centre to admit the

page_text: eyelet guide e, and allow the plate to move longitudinally for the length of
the slot or revolve on the bed plate. The slot g¹ is to receive the block
cramp of the dog hand lever P without embarrassing the longitudinal
movement of the feeding plate. The square holes h and h² are to receive the
spring half nuts Q and Q', and are situated at the opposite sides of the feeding
plate in line with the slot g. The sides of the slot g are chamfered to leave
the edges of the slot acute for a purpose that shall be presently named.
Attached to the feeding plate, and fastened by screws, are the spring half
nuts and Q, each nut with its spring resting on top of it; these half nuts
project through the feeding plate at the openings h and h', and carry threads
to match with the thread of the feed screw upon which they rest while
feeding, and from which they are released by the dog lever when rotating
the feeding plate; thus when one side of the button hole is stitched the
feeding plate receives from the dog lever a half rotation, and the opposite
half nut is brought into bite with the feed screw, when though the rotation
of this screw is continuous in one direction, the plate O is traversed in the
reverse direction in the length of the button hole, the opposite side of which
is then brought under the action of the needle and stitched. When the ends
of the button hole are reached the feed can be suspended, tho vibrating plate
given an increased motion, and the ends of the button hole neatly secured.
This feeding plate carries a dog lever P, which has its fulcrum at k in the
centre plate M, the lever having a block i secured to it sufficiently less than
the slot g in which it rests to permit the feeding plate a longitudinal
reciprocating movement as long as the lever is at rest, but when the feed
plate is to receive a half rotation the movement of the dog lever by the
operator causes the feed plato to turn by the bite of the block i in the slot g',
and at the same time its fulcrum moves round with the centre plate M
through its attachment with the feeding plate, and thus the rotary and
longitudinal movements of the feeding plato are not interrupted. The feeding
plate O has attached to its upper side a clamping lever R, so placed diagonally
to the centre slot 9 that the material to be stitched may be fed longitudinally
or transversely, and it is fastened by a screw when in position, and has a
spring beneath it to tend to raise it from the cloth. A set screw 6 passes
through the clamping lever, and has a thumb nut m on it to release the lever
when the button hole is finished, or hold it secure in position while the button
hole is being stitched. The forward end of the lever terminates in a flared
slot n of the length of the longest button hole to be stitched, and perpendicular
to the slot g in the feed plate O. The top of this flared slot may be marked
with a scale, and carry a guide wire to guide the gimp. When gimp is to be

page_text: used the under side of the flared slot is grooved, so that when it presses the
cloth between it and the chamfered edges of the slot g in the feed plate o it
will be drawn tight, and remain rigidly stretched to resist the puncture of the
needle or the drawing of the stitch, and thus keep the stitching perfectly.
regular and uniformly smooth. The forward end of the feeding screw D
rests in a bracket p attached to the under side of the bed plate E, and at its.
rear end is supported by a bracket q in the shield cap S*, which is fastened
on the upper side of the bed plate, as shewn in Fig. 5; this cap S* thus
forms a shield to protect the operator from being hurt by the star-toothed
pinion T or the rear of the feed screw, and supports the bracket while.
admitting the feed screw to be removed or replaced with facility, and leaves
its teeth free beneath to receive motion from its driver. An intermittent
rotating motion is imparted to the feed screw D from the pin plate or disc I,
and its adjustable screw pins 5, 6, 7, acting on the teeth of the star pinion T,
the plate I from its attachment to the switch cam H on its inner side rotating
with the main driving shaft and the switch cam H. The object of this plate is
to furnish a proper support for the adjustable screw pins 5, 6, and 7, and to
carry a sufficient number of screw holes to vary the adjustment of the pins as
required. The switch cam H consists of two cam grooves 7 and 71 parallel.
for about two-thirds of the circumference of the cam, and then crossing each
other, the radius of one groove being precisely coincident with that of the
other, and the whole cam is secured to the spooling pin by a set screw or a
feather. To the under side of the table C is attached the adjusting lever s,
which forms the fulcrum of the bed plate E; this lever is pivotted at one end,
and carries at the other a set screw 8 that passes through the slot 9 in the
table, and by this set screw the lever may be securely fastened when the bed
plate E has been properly adjusted, so as that the eyelet guide e shall be in
proper longitudinal relation to the needle. A slide bar V resting in guides t
and t secured to the under side of the table carries an arm u that supports the
switch W, which rests in the grooves r and 2 of the switch cam. The guide T
which supports the rear end of the slide bar is stationary, while the guide t¹
is notched and slotted, and may be moved in the direction of its length either
way by means of an excentric lever x that works in the notch v; this lever
passing outside of the table can be moved by the operator to vary at pleasure
the position of the bed plate E, so as always to keep the eyelet guide e in its
proper transverse relation to the needle. Between the guides t and t¹ the
slide bar is enlarged to receive a lever Y by which the vibration of the bed
plate is controlled with precision, and at the pleasure of the operator. A
segment-formed opening y (seo Fig. 18) is made at this enlarged part in the

page_text: slide bar, and it receives a slotted strap a" that fits into but is free to vibrate
in the opening y, and to this strap the lever Y is secured rigidly by screws.
Near the outside of the enlargement of the slide bar a pin 6 is placed, and
on each side of this pin 6", but on the lever Y adjustable slotted stops c
and care placed. Thus the limit of movement of the lever Y is regulated,
and can be no greater of course than the space between the adjusting stops
less the diameter of the pin. A spring d resting on the lever Y, but
fastened by screw to the slide bar, passing through a slot f" in the
lever Y, serves to keep the lever Y in contact with the slide bar with a
yielding pressure, and the inward movement of the lever will diminish and
the outward movement of the lever increase the extent of vibration of the bed
plate, and enable the operator to stitch both sides of the button hole and
secure its ends without stopping the machine. A pin 9" secured to the under
side of the bed plate, passing through the openings h" in the table, enters the
slot in the strap a", and through the changes of position of this strap slotted
connection the bed plate is free to vibrate more or less as the slide bar
reciprocates by the rotation of the switch cam on the spooling pin.
The operation is as follows:-The position of the eyelet guide being fixed
in proper relation to the needle, and the goods in which the button hole is to
be worked placed beneath the slotted clamp, through which, as well as through
the revovable feeding plate, the needle passes; tho needle and bobbin being
properly threaded the machine may be set in motion by turning the driving
shaft in the direction of the red arrow; when one stitch is made the screw
pins in the plate I strike the star wheel, and rotate the feed screw the distance
of the next stitch; and the switch on the jog bar V vibrates the bed plate tho
distance necessary to carry the goods so far to one side as that the needle
shall pass into the button hole, and the locking of the stitch will secure the
gimp when that is used, and which is to be held in position by the guide
wire o on the clamp; the repetition of these stitches continue to the end of
the button hole, when the lever that controls the vibration of the bed plate is
moved, and the needle carries its thread twice the former distance, and locks
the end of the button hole securely. The feeding plate is now turned half
round by the dog lever, in doing which the feed half-nut first in connection
with the feed screw is released, and the opposite one is brought into bite on
the feed screw when the direction of feed of the goods is reversed, and the
opposite side of the button hole is worked and locked as the first side was,
when the button hole is finished.
It is obvious that the above-described additions to the ordinary sewing
machine will enable it to sew a button hole that has been cut, but they will

page_text: also enable it to sew a secure pair of parallel seams with the button hole
stitch, and lock them at the ends so that the button hole may be cut after
the working, and this in all such goods as draw when cut, stockinets for
example, will be found highly valuable.
It is only manifest that in adapting the Invention to the Wheeler and
Wilson sewing machine the machine proper has not been deprived of any of
its varied capabilities when its usual feed movement is placed upon it.
What I claim under this head of the Invention, and desire to secure by the
above in part recited Letters Patent is,-
First, operating the button hole mechanism from the spooling pin sub-
stantially as and for the purpose set forth.
Second, the bed plate E having a reciprocating motion, and being
laterally and longitudinally adjustable, substantially as and for the purpose
set forth.
Third, the adjustable stitching plate combined with its eyelet guide, sub-
stantially as and for the purpose described.
Fourth, the combination of the centre plate and gibs substantially as and
for the purpose set forth.
Fifth, the dog lever combined with the centre plate, the block cramp,
and the revolvable plate, substantially in the manner and for the purpose
described.
Sixth, the combination of the grooved clamping lever with the grooved
revolvable plate substantially as described, which permits of the button hole
being worked at a right angle, or less than a right angle, to the selvage or
parallel therewith.
Seventh, the means of driving the feeding screw to intermittently reciprocate
the feeding plate or hold it at rest substantially as and for the purpose
described.
Eighth, the combination of the switch, the jog bar, and the slotted strap,
substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
Ninth, the combination of the jog bar with the adjustable slide bar,
substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
Tenth, the combination of the bed plate and shield cap, substantially as and
for the purpose set forth.
Eleventh, the combination of the bed plate and table with the adjustable
lever and stitching plate, substantially as and for the purpose described.
Twelfth, the combination of the bed plate, jog bar, excentric lever, and
stitching plate, substantially as and for the purpose described.
Thirteenth, the combination of the friction spring and adjustable stops of

page_text: the throw lever Y with the jog bar and its stop pin, substantially in the manner
and for the purpose described.
Fourteenth, the combination of the bed plate with the sliding and feeding
plates, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
The second head of the Invention is illustrated in Sheet II. Fig. 1 repre-
sents a plan view of the machine with its covering plate removed to shew the
slotted scroll, cam, ratchet wheel, and its pawl; Fig. 2 represents a plan
view of the under side of the machine; Fig. 3 represents in detail the parts
which reverse the position of the pawl to reverse the feed; Fig. 4 shows the
details of the switch block for changing the throw of the clamping plate; 1
and Fig. 5 represents the clamp and its adjusting cone.
It is the object of this part of the Invention to work a button hole and
finish it on both sides without turning the fabric in which it is worked, which
has hitherto been a desideration in this class of machines, and which gives to
the button hole machine a largely increased capability for rapid work besides 1
rendering the working of button holes strictly automatic, and to this end the
improvements consists,―
a
First, in working a button hole on both sides without turning the cloth.
Second, in a scroll cam ratchet wheel having reversable motion to feed
the fabric back and forth tho distance required for any determined length of
button hole.
Third, in shifting the pawl automatically by adjustable stops that determine
the length of button hole to be worked.
Fourth, in determing the length of stitch by the pawl sweep slotted and
fulcrumed on the axle of the scroll cam, and connected by a bent rod with
the jog bar.
Fifth, in combining with a reciprocating shell plate a stationary and an
adjustable switch hook to sew button holes of varying lengths.
Sixth, in governing the vibration of the clamping plate by a switch block
to sew the opposite sides of button holes of whatever length.
Seventh, in attaching to the under side of the fixed bed plate an
adjustable stitching plate, so that it may be always in proper relation to the
needle.
Eighth, in an adjustable screw pivot for the clamp to adapt it to any
thickness of cloth.
Ninth, in supporting the cloth by a clamp on a vibrating plate, which has
also a longitudinal reciprocatory motion to work both sides and both ends of
a button hole without turning the cloth.
The Invention is designed to be attached to sewing machines, which from

page_text: their rotary motion can impart a reciprocating motion to a sliding jog bar, so
arranged as to operate the whole button hole mechanism. In the example
selected for illustrating the Invention I will consider it as applied to the well-
known Wheeler and Wilson sewing machine, modified so as to impart the
required movement through a rotating switch cam properly connected with
the button hole mechanism.
The whole of the mechanism involved in the Invention may be conveniently
supported on or attached to the opposite sides of a bed plate A (baving a
covering plate not shewn in the Drawing) over the scroll ratchet wheel B.
The top of the plate A is cut down circularly to permit the scroll wheel B to
rotate beneath its surface, and longitudinally to receive a vibrating plate C,
which has also a reciprocating or forward and back motion. The bed plate A
is cut through and through at the forward portion of the depression, as at D,
in Fig. 3, and on one side of the scroll wheel, as at E, Figures 1 and 2, to
permit the vibration of the pawl F over the teeth of the scroll wheel B, the
slot of which is cut from near its outer clge to near its axis a, and the
perimeter of the wheel is furnished with ratchet teeth. The plate C is
attached to or may form part of a bar G that carries near its rear end a pin
or stud 2, which projects from the top of the bar into the scroll slot of the
ratchet wheel B, and as the scroll wheel is alternately rotated back and forth
tho pin 2 approaches or recedes from its axis and thus imparts a limited
longitudinal reciprocation to the plate C. This plate carries a slot 3 at its
forward end of the length of the largest button hole to be worked on the
machine. It also carries a clamp II, having a slot 4 over the button hole,
and which is pivotted on a screw 5, fastened in the plate C, and having a
milled nut 6 above the clamp, and a spiral spring 30 beneath it. The rear
end of the clamp rests on a milled nut 7, that turns on a screw 31 also
fastened to the plate C. This milled screw nut 7 is finished with a cone
shape on tho top, and the rear of the clamp has a corresponding cone-shaped
depression; so that as the nut 7 is turned to rise on its screw the clamp can
always be made to rest on cloths of varying thicknesses with a pressure
parallel to the plate C over the whole under surface of the presser, and thus
render the pull on the stitch uniform in all parts of the button hole. The
plate C has a slot 8 in which a stud 9 rests, that is, secured to a bar I (see the
detached views, Figures 6). This bar I has its fulcrum in a plate K, shewn
in dots at Fig. 2 and in red lines at Fig. 4. The bar I carries a stud 10
that rests in the slot 11 of the jog bar L; now as the slot 11 in the jog
bar has an inclination to the straight movements of the bar the position of
the stud 10 in this slot will determine the movement of the clamping plate

page_text: sidewise, while the position of the stud 2 in the slot 1 of the scroll cam will
determine the longitudinal position of the clamping plate, so that a single
forward and back movement of the jog bar will cause a forward and back
vibration of the clamping plate for each stitch in the button hole, and a forward
or back motion of the clamping plate to advance or retract the button hole
for the next stitch. The switch pawl F is bifurcated and carries a tail 12
and a point 18, the former resting against a curved spring 14, and the point
resting between the forked projections of a lever 15 fulcrumed on the sweep M,
which is fulcrumed and free to vibrate on the axle of the scroll cam. The
sweep M is vibrated by the movements of the jog bar, and carries the pawl
with it, and as one or the other of the teeth of the pawl is constantly engaged
with the ratchet teeth of the scroll wheel the axial movements of this wheel
will continue in one direction or the other by reason of the vibration of the
jog bar. The switch F is automatically changed to move the scroll wheel in
opposite directions by a roversing stop on the sliding bar N and moveable
switch V (see Fig. 4). A pin X projects from the upper side of the forked
lever 15 that is alternately struck by a projection y on the sliding bar N and
by the moveable switching wedge V. A switch block p carried by the plate K
is connected to the bed plate by a plate Z, as shewn in red lines at Fig. 4, and
this switch block plate which slides in guides in the plate Z is moved in
opposite directions by the switch wedge V passing on one side and a
switch O on the other. The bar N is fastened to the bar R, which is secured
to the vibrating plate C in such a manner as to partake of its longitudinal
but not of its vibrating movements. The bar N carries the switch O and
has a shoulder at y that strikes the pin X on the upper side of the forked
lever 15 that vibrates the pawl, and when the side of the button hole which
is sewn on the advance movement of the plate C is finished the shoulder y
reverses the pawl and the movement of the plate C is reversed by the reverse
movement of the scroll cam. The switch V is attached to the sliding
bar, and as this switch and the bar when adjusted also partake of
the longitudinal movements of the plate C the end of the bar & always
moves in a fixed relation to the projection or shoulder y on the bar N,
and when the side of the button bole sewn by the return movement of
the plate C is finished the end of the bar z strikes the pin X in the lever 15,
Now as
and reversing the pawl reverses the movement of the scroll cam.
the stitches are formed by two punctures of the needle for each stitch, and
as two sets of stitches are required for each button hole, it is evident that the
vibrations of the plate C must be kept in progress on one side of the button
holo at a time that the goods may be moved under the needle the distance

page_text: determined for the length of stitch, and to effect this the switch block p is
secured to the under side of the sliding plate K, which is held by the plate Z,
and a hole is made in the block p to receive the pin 27 of the lever I which
vibrates the plate C, and as one side of the button hole is being stitched the
switch block p is pressed on one side by the switch V, and when the other.
side of the button hole is sewn the switch O presses the block on the opposite
side, and thus the plate C is made to vibrate alternately on opposite sides of
the button hole without interrupting the regular spacing of the stitching.
This movement is to keep the clamping plate in position to permit the opposite
sides of the button hole to be automatically sewn, for as the sewing of one
side of the button hole is finished by say the forward movement of the clamp-
ing plate when the feed is changed, the sliding switch passes between the
switch block and the edge of the bed plate and pushes the clamp over a
sufficient distance and holds it long enough to sew the opposite side of the
button hole leaving the clamping plate ample vibration to sew on the sides
of a cut button hole or to leave room between the stitching to cut the button
hole after it has been sewn on both sides of the cut. The pawl sweep M
carries a slot 16 curved in the arc of the radius of the bent bar Q which is
fastened by a set screw one end in the slot 16 and at the other to the
jog bar L at 17, and by changing the position of the rod Q in the slot 16,
you change the distance between the stitches in the button hole, because as
the radius of the bent bar is increased the pawl in its vibration passes over a
greater distance on the scroll wheel, and as the radius of the bent bar is
diminished the pawl will pass over a smaller number of the teeth in the
scroll wheel. The bar z, which carries the switch wedge V has a stud in its
forward end that receives a milled nut S above the bed plate; this stud moves
back and forth in a slot 19, in a sliding plate T attached to the vibrating
plate C, of course the plates T and C move together longitudinally but the
plate T has no vibrating movement, being confined by dovetailed ways and
connected to the bed plate by a loose joint or by the screw 18 resting in a
transverse slot in the bed plate, now all that is required to vary the movements
of the clamping or bed plate to button holes of any length is the change of
the position of set screw S in the slot 19, for as this set screw determines the
traverse of the switch wedge V, the pawl will be shifted earlier or later and
the traverse of the scroll cam 1 past the stud 2 will be increased or diminished.
The movement of the set screw S forward will lengthen the traverse of the
scroll cam, and its movement backward will diminish its traverse, and in the
example shown in the Drawings, is evident that the length of the button
hole may be varied to any radius extending from the end of the scroll cam

page_text: near the axis of the ratchet wheel to any other point on the scroll cam. To
the under side of the bed plate is attached a stitching plate U having slotted
screw holes 21 and 22, to permit it a slight longitudinal adjustment, so as to
prevent the needle from striking its edges and secure an uniform pull upon
the loop of needle thread by the hook, which could hardly be the case were
the needle to enter the side of the opening in the stitching instead of always
entering precisely in the centre of this opening.
The operation of the parts is as follows:-The Invention being applied to
a Wheeler and Wilson sewing machine has its jog bar suitably connected by
a switch cam to the main shaft, the rotation of which reciprocates the jog bar,
the goods being placed on the clamping plate, and the stitching plate adjusted
for the needle to pass through the centre of its opening, the reciprocation
of the jog bar imparts two vibrations to the clamping plate and one feed motion
forward to space the stitches for each vibration of the jog bar, during which
the needle descends twice and forms a single stitch on one side of the button
hole, which is completed by the continued reciprocatory movement of the jog
bar, and at this moment the pawl is shifted and the switch block moves the
clamping plate a sufficient distance laterally to sew the opposite side of the
button hole, which in this example terminates in a point of short stitching at
each end, but the shape for the termination of the ends of the button hole is
not limited, as the form of these ends is strictly under control. The mode of
changing the length of the button hole and the spaces of the stitches having
been heretofore described demonstrates that the Invention will automatically
produce button holes without turning the cloth.
Under this, the second head of the Invention, I claim, working both sides
of a button hole automatically without turning the cloth by the means above
described.
The third head of the Invention is illustrated at Sheet III. Its object is to
sew button holes automatically by a mechanism capable of being effectively
attached with either side up to any sewing machine that can impart a
horizontal reciprocatory motion suitable for working the apparatus.
Fig. 1 is a plan view of the under side of the machine with the covering
plate removed; Fig. 2 is a plan view of the upper side of the machine; and
Fig. 3 is a view of parts of the machine showing some of its interior details in
different colors.
The improvements consist,―
First, in enclosing the mechanism in a shell case that will permit the same
to be turned either side upward, and the button hole to be worked either on

page_text: Second, in giving the button hole cloth holder a rectilinear rotating and
vibrating movement to sew both sides and both ends of the button hole
automatically.
Third, in so combining a jog bar, a rack bar, and a ratchet wheel with tho
cloth holder as to give the latter a rectilinear intermittent movement.
Fourth, in so combining a jog bar, a pawl lever, and toothed ratchet wheel
with the cloth holder as to give the latter an intermittent rotary motion.
Fifth, in so combining a jog bar with a supporting arm or bar that holds
the cloth as to give the latter constantly a motion of vibration.
Sixth, in so combining an adjustable slide with the bar that supports the
cloth holder and a pawl lever as to vary the length of button hole to be
worked.
Seventh, in so combining a jog bar, a pawl sweep, and a ratchet wheel with
the cloth holder as to control the spacing of the stitches.
The case A may be made of cast or sheet metal, and secured to a plate B
having screw holes by which to attach it to the sewing machine. A stud X
passing through a slot in the case A and plate B may receive a reciprocatory
movement from the sewing machine in any suitable manner; a double scroll
cam secured upon the revolving shaft of a sewing machine has been found well
adapted to give this stud X its required reciprocation, and this stud is secured
to the jog bar D within the case, which bar imparts the movements to all the
operative members of the button hole machine. The case A may be attached
to the upper or under side of the sewing machine, and when the cloth holder
is not interrupted by the sewing machine in any of its movements the button
hole clamp C may be turned downward and the cloth held beneath the case,
or the button hole attachment may be placed on top of the bed plate of the
sewing machine and the cloth held above the case the attachment will work
effectively in either position, and from this peculiarity may be readily adapted
to sewing machines of almost every style. The cloth holder C is attached to
the under side of a plate E, which is arranged to slide secured in the slot of a
toothed disc F, which has at given periods an intermittent rotation, while the
plate E has an intermittent semi-reciprocatory motion in its slot across the
disc. The plate E has attached to its upper side by screws 1, 2, 3, 4, a
circular plate G (Fig. 1) which moves on the toothed disc F, and thus
the cloth holder C is held in position by the disc F on one side and the
plate G on the other, and is thus free to rotate intermittently with the
toothed disc, and to have an intermittent progressive movement across the
disc, while the cloth holder C, the plate E, and the circular plato G
are all slotted as at H to permit the needle of the sewing mechanism to pass
O

page_text: through the cloth to work the button hole. The circular plate G is held in a
ring I on the forward end of the feed lever K fulcrumed on the supporting
beam L shown in Figure 3 which derives a motion of vibration from the pin 5
in the slot 6 of the jog bar D shown in Figure 3. The toothed disc F is
supported in a ring M on the forward end of the supporting beam L, which
is fulcrumed around the axis 7 of the ratchet wheel N, and the disc F is
secured by a cap 0 on the ring M, which is fastened by screws 8, 9, 10,
and 11; the disc carries a small spring 12, which, resting in depressions 13
and 14 in the ring serves to keep the disc in position when the plate E is in
position to receive its rectilinear movement, or while that movement is in pro-
gress, and thus the cloth holder is always free to vibrate the length of a
button hole stitch whether it is rotating or moving forward, and of course
the sewing is uniform on the edges and around the ends of the button hole,
which is worked also strictly automatically. The cloth holder derives its
rectilinear movement from the ratchet teeth 15 on the rear end of the feed
bar K working in gear with the pinion 16 on the under side of the ratchet
wheel N, which is actuated by a pawl P on the sweep Q, which is
connected by the strap 17 with the jog bar D. The longitudinal reciproca-
tion of the jog bar produced by the switch cam or other reciprocating
device on the sewing machine rotates the ratchet wheel automatically, and
this motion is communicated to the feed bar by the pinion working on
the ratchet teeth while the sides of the button hole are being stitched, and
this is effected by a continuous progression which governs the stitching of the
sides one side at a time, for after one side of the button hole has been
stitched the feed bar is thrown out of gear with its driving pinion by the
mechanism which gives the intermittent rotary motion to the cloth holder,
which is as follows:-A plate R carries a square stud 18 which presses
against the toothed side of the slide S on the feed bar K while this bar is
feeding forward; but when one side of the button hole is stitched the end of
the slide S passes the stud 18, and permits it to rest against the feed bar and
arrest its forward movement, for at the instant the stud 18 comes against the
feed bar a hooked pawl 19, shown in Figures 1 and 3, is pressed by its
spring 20 into contact with the teeth of the disc F which carries the cloth
holder, and as the hooked pawl is connected by a strap 21 and stud 22 with
the slot 23 in the jog bar D it receives a reciprocatory movement that in
coming back pulls the teeth of the disc and slips over them in going forward
until a half revolution of the cloth holder is completed, and at the first pull
of the booked pawl on the teeth of the disc the plate G in commencing to
turn throws the rack on the rear end of its feed bar, which is free to turn on

page_text: a centre out of gear with its pinion, but when a half revolution of cloth holder
is effected the feed bar has been forced back until the plate G is near the
inner edge of the ring M and the rack brought into gear with the teeth of
its pinion, when the stud 18 will again rest on the outside of the slide S,
when the opposite side of the button hole is in position to be stitched, the
stitching mechanism having worked one side of the button hole on its former
forward movement, and one end of the button hole in the first half revolution
of the cloth holder, for during these movements of the cloth holder it has all
the time been under a motion of vibration to determine the length of the
stitches, and this motion is derived from a slot 6 in the jog bar that is placed
on an angle to the line of motion of the jog bar D; a pin 5 in this slot is
secured to a crank lever T pivoted on its long arm at 24, and carrying a
stud 25 in its short arm that rests in the slot 26 in the supporting beam L
that is fulcrumed around the axis of the ratchet wheel N, so that as the jog
bar is reciprocated the position of the stud in its inclined slot is continually
changing and vibrating the crank lever T, and with it the cloth holder is also
under continuous vibration while the machine is in operation. To vary the
sewing to button holes of different lengths a slotted slide S is provided, which
rests upon the feed bar, and is adjusted longitudinally by a set screw 27,
past which the slot 28 moves and shortens or lengthens the period of contact
between the teeth of the feed bar and its pinion, so that when the slide S
is moved towards the rack end of the feed bar a longer button hole can be
worked, and vice versa, when the bar S is moved from the rack a shorter
button hole will be worked. To vary the distance between the stitches a
slot 29 is cut in the sweep Q, in which is placed a screw 30 rotated by a
milled bead 31 on the outside of the case; this screw passes through a
threaded block 32 which carries a stud 33, which as the screw is turned will
traverse. The stud 33 rests in the rear slotted end of the strap 17 which
connects it to the jog bar D, which thus imparts a vibratory motion to the
sweep Q which is fulcrumed on the axle of the ratchet wheel N, and as the
threaded block is nearer to or farther from the fulcrum of the sweep the
distance between one stitch and another will be shorter or longer, for while
the throw of the sweep will be continuous the distance it vibrates will
change with the position of the stud that works in the slot of the strap.
The operation is as follows:-The goods in which it is desired to work
button holes must be placed in the cloth holder, so that the spot where the
button hole which may be cut or not is desired shall come centrally between
the slops in the clamp and the sliding plate; the sewing machine now being

page_text: put in motion the needle will penetrate the cloth, and when its loop has
been taken will rise, and the cloth bolder will vibrate the length of a stitch
when the needle will again descend and form a stitch, which will be drawn
tight as the needle again rises, when the feed will take place, and the
descending needle will commence a new stitch; the continuance of these
movements will sew one side of the button hole from end to end, when the
cloth holder will be rotated for half a revolution, and while this rotation is
going on the stitching continues to complete the end of the button hole,
which has now been finished to the outer edge of the toothed ring; and,
of course, the half revolution this ring has performed will have brought the
edge of the button hole back to be stitched like the first side by the forward
progression of the cloth holder, and thus a button hole will be automatically
worked by a mechanism that works its sides by a forward movement only of
its opposite sides and the ends while it is rotating, and so that the integrity
of the stitches is kept perfect by the vibration of the cloth continually whether
the sides or ends of the button hole are being completed. The movements
of this mechanism is rendered harmonious by making the axis of the toothed
ratchet wheel the fulcrum both of the cloth holder and of the sweep which
carries the pawl, for whenever these movements are to be changed from
rotary to rectilinear the feed is brought into gear properly, and when either
motion is in progress there is no disturbance of the vibrations of the cloth
necessary to the integrity of the stitching.
Under this head of the Invention I claim working button holes auto-
matically above or below the bed plate of sewing machines substantially in
the manner and for the purpose set forth.
The fourth head of the Invention relates to the clamping of the work in
button hole and other sewing machines.
Fig. 4, Sheet II., is a plan view, and Figure 5 a cross section, of an improved
clamp applied to a button hole machine rotating plate. It is of primary
importance in sewing by machinery to have the cloth beld rigidly at the point
where it receives the stitches that it may properly receive the puncture of the
needle and the pull of the thread in tightening the stitch; and this is more
especially necessary in stitching button holes automatically, it is therefore the
object of the present improvement to hold the material to be sewn beneath
the needle so that it shall be stretched and held taut in the line to receive the
stitching; and to this end the Invention consists in surrounding the opening
in the table through which the needle passes with india-rubber, and so forming
the clamp that while holding the material to be stitched it shall be pressed

page_text: upon the rubber, and held taut to receive the stitches with an elastic pressure
that will act uniformly though the material being sewn may be of varying
thicknesses. The rotating plate A is perforated at B with an opening of the
length and width necessary for working a button hole, and this opening is
surrounded with a ring C of india-rubber, which is secured to the plate with
a metal washer D by screws or rivets that compress the rubber on its outer
edge, and holds it snugly and permanently, but permit it to rise above the
washer at its inner edge so as to let the material to be sewn rest upon the
rubber, the inner edge of which is parallel with the opening B in the plate A.
A presser E resting at its heel on a guide pin F and a spiral spring G, sur-
rounding a screw stud H in the plate A, has a flared margin I curved on its
under side in a concave to form a sharp edge K that will rest against and fit
the inner edge of the rubber C where it surrounds and rises above the open-
ing B in the plate A; the presser E is held in position and adjusted by a
milled nut L on the screw stud H, the tendency of the spiral spring being
always to keep the presser raised against the under surface of milled
nut.
The operation is as follows:-The material to receive the button hole is
properly placed upon the india-rubber over the opening in the table, and the
clamp is screwed down until the material is drawn properly taut to receive
the stitching when it will be found that the goods will be held in a smooth
rigid plane that will receive the stitching with perfect and uniform tension
and regularity.
In this example of one mode of applying the Invention it is shewn as
adapted to a button hole machine, but it is not intended so to limit it, for it
is obviously capable of most beneficial application to any automatic sewing,
and with these marked advantages:-First, the character of the surface of
the rubber will give the most desirable degree of friction to any goods passed
over the rubber by the feed mechanism to keep the goods smooth and taut
under the needle; and, second, the elasticity of the rubber, together with the
yielding pressure, will permit materials of varying thickness to be fed between
the rubber and the presser without interrupting the perfect uniformity of the
sewing.
Under this head of the Invention I claim the means above described for
holding the work taut while under the action of the needle.
The last head of the Invention relates to an improvement in the rotating
hook of lock-stitch machines.
In Sheet 3, Figure 6 represents a front view of the Wheeler and Wilson

page_text: hook, to which the improvement is applied. Figure 7 is an edge view of the
back of the hook; Figure 8, an edge view of the front of the hook; and
Figure 9 an edge view showing the detached portion of the hook.
The perimeter of the Wheeler and Wilson hook is nearly circular, while
the body of the hook varies in thickness, so that when the hook draws the
loop of the needle thread to spread it and pass it around the shuttle bobbin
the loop may pass smoothly off of the hook; but as the loop of needle thread
has to be detained a short time by a presser pad or brush, it is found that
the uniform size of the hook does not release the loop of needle thread as
easily as is desirable after and while passing the presser pad. Now in order
to enable the loop of needle thread to pass the presser pad more easily, and
when passed to escape lightly from the hook, the back of the hook is
chamfered so as to relieve it from bearing against the whole surface of the
presser pad. The loop of the needle thread will therefore escape freely after
passing the pad stop without the circular form of the perimeter of the hook
being changed.
The hook A in the Drawing is formed from a disc of the proper thickness
upon the end of the bolt B, which enters the main shaft of the Wheeler and
Wilson machine; and, for convenience of description, let us suppose it
divided into three equal parts, numbered 1, 2, and 3, of which division 1
forms the hook proper; division 2, the part occupied by the improvement;
and division 3, the heel of the hook. The perimeter of the hook is nearly
circular, and the parts 1 and 3 are finished with the usual regular curve of
the Wheeler and Wilson hook, but the part 2 is cut down to the angular form
shown at C, in Figure 9; and this reduction is continued to the points D
and E, in Figure 1, by chamfering the curved portion of the hook away for the
distance from D to E, leaving the outer and inner edges of the chamfered
portion 2 smooth but not sharp, and the space between them a convex plane,
and as this plane is so situated on the hook as to receive the loop of the
needle thread, and retain it by the presser pad resting against the perimeter
upward motion of the
of the book, the side of the loop to be drawn by the
needle is released, and as soon as the portion of the loop caught by the presser
is released the whole loop is free to escape lightly from over the angular
surface of the hook. It is obvious that by this arrangement of the surface of
the hook the needle is relieved from lateral strain, and that the loop of needle
thread will be more easily controlled than from a hook of uniform dimensions,
when, of course, the stitching will be more accurate, more especially in very
rapid sewing.

page_text: Under this head of the Invention I claim chamfering the Wheeler and
Wilson sewing machine hook substantially in the manner and for the purpose
set forth.
In witness whereof, I, the said Alfred Vincent Newton, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, the Fifth day of January, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-seven.
Witness,
J. W. MOFFATT,
66, Chancery Lane.
A. V. NEWTON. (L.S.)