Year: 1895

page_text: Date of Application, 27th Feb., 1895
Complete Specification Left, 26th Nov., 1895-Accepted, 18th Jan.,
1896

page_text: Side slope 5th down and one in, then to 6th and a fold out to a fixed point.
Bottom slope from a fixed point on each side to centre line of sleeve.
Strings are sewn to front to tie round the waist or a band of gathers is made and
rings set at each side.
I obtain the pattern of a boy's shirt by drawing the shirt to a scale similar to
ne of the methods hereinbefore described, or I may obtain the pattern of a boy's
hirt by cutting out by proportion from the length of the collar instead of folding
s hereinbefore described in reference to the other garments.
I take the material 28 inches wide, and cut the collar 3 finger-lengths, or about
4 inches in length, and a finger length in depth.
The le

page_text: WILLIAM HENRY BARACLOUGH,
36, Temple Street, Birmingham, Agent for the Applicant.

page_text: Improved Methods of Obtaining Patterns for Various Garments, for
Pupil Teachers and Students to Fulfil the Requirements of the
Education Code.
I ELIZABETH HUGHES of the Spon Lane Board Schools, West Bromwich in
the County of Stafford, Head Mistress, Spinster, do hereby declare the nature
of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
My invention relates to improved methods of obtaining patterns for various
garments, and has reference principally to those patterns used by pupil teachers
and students attending public elementary schools to fulfil the requirements of
the Education Code.
By my invention patterns for various garments may be produced to any required
size accurately and expediously, the said patterns being arranged in series,
representing 1st 2nd 3rd and 4th years instructions in needlework required by the
Education Code.
I will describe my improved method of obtaining a pattern of a child's night
gown, which will be in accordance with the requirements of the Education Code
for the first years instruction of a pupil teacher.
I first provide a sketch or digram of the garment similar to the one represented
at Figure 1.
A representing the front and B the back of a night gown, C the neck hollowing
at front, and D, the neck hollowing at back, E the opening at back F the waist
band G and G the sleeve bands G and G are the openings for the sleeves, H the
neck band J and J' the shoulder bands 1 and the linings for shoulder bands
K and K represent the sleeves. proceed to obtain the different dimensions in
the following manner :-
Front and back of night gown 8 finger lengths long. Material from 30 to
36 inches wide or take about 7 finger lengths for width. Fold into six each
way represented in dotted lines. If material is 36 inches, the bands can be cut
from side.
Neck hollow at front
down, and across 2 folds.
of a fold down across 2 folds, at back hollow of a fold
Opening at back down 14 folds.
Hollowing for sleeves, down 1 fold, across
fold.
Sleeves. Cut 1 width of material for the two sleeves, allowing 4 finger lengths
for depth. Fold each into 8 down and 2 folds across. Take one fold for top
curve.
Waist band. A width of material, less
length deep.
Neck band. width of material long and
shows the neck band folded.
finger length long. Take 1 {finger
the depth of waist baud, pattern
Sleeve band.neck band long and depth of waist band.
Shoulder band. length of neck band and depth of waist band. Gather
shoulder from neck hollowing to sleeve hollowing and set into this band.

page_text: The width of the sleeves equals 1 parts and parts. Slope to the top edge.
The shoulder equals parts from the sleeve slope.
The neck width of garment or 8 folds by 1 deep.
The side gore 2 folds in under the sleeve.
The neck band is obtained by taking
The dotted lines indicate the folds.
of the length of the chemise.
The method of obtaining the pattern of a womans cooking apron according to
my invention is represented at Figure 3.
I cut the material 40 inches or 9 finger lengths for the length and 40 inches or
9 finger lengths for the breadth, to form the skirt b or apron, and fold the same
into 32 equal parts across. also fold the top to bottom into 4 equal parts
represented in dotted lines 1 to 4, 1 to 32. I make 4 darts a, a, a, a,
depth of skirt, or down to 2nd fold, g represents in dotted lines the hollowing for
waist.
the
I make the side bib d length of skirt and the width, this I fold into 4
each way.
The front of bib e, equals the length of side bib, the width width of side
bib. Fold into 4 each way represented by dotted lines.
The waisband is the same length as bib.
The method of obtaining the pattern of a night shirt is as follows:-
In
I first obtain the length of the collar H, H, for the neck of the wearer.
mine I have taken 3 finger lengths or about 16 inches material which I calculate
should equal the proper size. I obtain the size of the yoke by taking 1 times
the collar lengths and length of the collar for depth.
The slope of the shoulder should equal the collar length, and depth of the
yoke, hollowing for the neck should be about the shoulder depth.
To make the sleeves I cut off a width of material 1 the length of yoke deep
and fold it 3 times across width, and cut diagonally across the centre fold, and
place the cross and straight sides of each piece together and cut off the ends.
The waist band 1 obtain by taking of the collar length and 1 depth.
I obtain the size of the skirt as follows:-
The front equals twice the length of the yoke and once its depth.
The front shoulder 1 shape to the yoke.
The front neck as deep again as the yoke hollowing.
Front opening equals the length of collar.
Hip opening same as arm hole. I have not thought it necessary to illustrate
this it differing in uo essential respects to Figure 5.
In order to fulfil the conditions of certain requirements of the Education Code,
needlework in which a stoking web-darn and whipped frill, have to be produced,
these methods being in general use, I do not consider it necessary to describe
or illustrate them.
I will now describe my improved method of obtaining patterns of garments
for the second years course of instruction in accordance with the requirements
of the Education Code.
The method of obtaining the pattern of a childs frock Figure 4 is as follows:-
I obtain the front of the bodice L by taking 4 finger lengths of the material for
the width, and 2 finger lengths and for the depth.
I fold the materials into 12 equal parts down and 24 across as indicated by the
dotted lines and crease the same.
The back of bodice M is obtained by taking 2 finger lengths square and folding
the material into 12 equal parts each way as indicated by the dotted lines and
crease and cut off 1 fold at the top S, represents the hem.
The sleeves N are obtained by taking 2 finger lengths of material in width, and
one finger length in depth. I fold the material into 16 equal parts across
and 4 equal parts in depth.
The skirt I obtain by taking 2 widths O and P, of material each a yard,
or 4 finger lengths, R representing the opening at back.

page_text: I obtain the pattern of an infants night gown in the following manner :-
I take 7 finger lengths of material for the width and length and fold into 16 equal
parts and crease each way.
The slope for the fold equals 2 folds in and 13 deep.
The arm hole equals 2 folds long by a fold diagonally.
The neck equals 10 folds across and 1 deep. Open at back equals 4 folds from
hollowing at neck.
The top of the garment is to be hemmed and a tape run through or gathered into
a narrow band which is to be the length of the skirt. The sleeves are obtained
by taking the length of gown, fold into 8 each way, top slope round to one fold,
side 5th down and one in, then to 6th and a fold out to a fixed point. Bottom
slope from a fixed point on each side to centre line of sleeve edge.
Strings are sewn to front to tie round the waist or a band of gathers is made and
strings set at each side. I have not illustrated this, it differing in no respects to one
of the methods before described.
I obtain the pattern of a boy's shirt by drawing the shirt to a scale similar to the
method described and illustrated at Figure 9.
Or I may obtain the pattern of a boy's shirt represented in Figure 5 by cutting
out by proportion from the length of the collar H instead of folding as hereinbefore
described in reference to night shirt in 1st year series.
I take the material 36.inches wide, and cut the collar 3 fingers or about 14 inches
in length, and finger length in depth.
A represents the front and B the back.
The yoke T and T I make 1 collar lengths. The shoulder slopes U, U, collar
length to depth of yoke.
Hollowing C, inch.
Sleeves G and G¹ cut off a width of material the length of yoke T, T, in
depth, fold this in 3 across the width shown in dotted lines. Cut across centre fold
diagonally at V, V, V, place edges together, and cut across level. The lines G 2 and
G 3 representing the folds for back of sleeve. Inside measurements should be the
same as yoke T, T.
Waist band F half length, and twice depth of collar H.
Skirt A two and collar lengths.
Back B to be cut 2 inches shorter to allow for yoke.
Arm hole W about 1 inch in, front shoulder cut to fit yoke, and neck hollowed C,
3 times the depth of back, hollowing of neck piece A cut out of front and facings.
of linen put on, or may be cut down and pleated or gathered into neck band.
Opening in front same as collar length.
Hip Y, opening same as arm hole y representing the gussets.
In order to fulfil the condition of certain requirements of the Education Code,.
needlework in which flannel, priut, and calico garments have to be patched, also
knitted samples produced, these methods being in general use I do not consider it
necessary to describe or illustrate them in detail.
I will describe my new method of obtaining patterns of garments for the third
years course of instruction in accordance with the requirements of the Education.
Code.
I will describe first my method of obtaining the pattern of a gored flannel
petticoat, with a round band represented at Figure 6.
I first cut 24 withs of flannel h h' and 36 inches long or 8 finger lengths.
Fold one width into 6 parts shown in dotted lines and cut diagonally across.
1st and 2nd fold on each side (2 folds each side of J, J for the 1st gores K, K.
For the side gores cut the second width of material in two (down) at X, X, fold
each half width in three and cut a gore similar to first. This makes two more
gores for each side. Half a plain width 2 for back breadth open down, m, of the
length. Round band n 6 finger lengths across and 3 deep fold as shown by
dotted lines.
Fold length into 12 and width into 6 and mark round folds as shown.

page_text: Figure 6 is a diagram showing the gores placed in position.
I will describe my improved method of obtaining a pattern of an in"ants long
flannel represented at Figure 7.
The skirt and U represents 13 widths of flannel.
The two halves of the bodice r, r, are each 3 finger lengths long and 14 finger
lengths deep (when made without a join 7 finger lengths are taken) fold the same
in 32 folds across or 16 for half and six folds down, shown in dotted lines.
The side opening is cut across 3 folds.
The back 6 folds across or 3 in each half is half width of back fold down.
Arm hole 3 folds across or back hollowing.
Top, slope from shoulder down 2 folds to form edge. Bottom, slope across 7 folds
from front edge to bottom edge. Front edge 2 folds deep, V represents the lining
for the back shaped to bodice.
The skirt is left plain from a certain point marked X on each side of bodice and
the rest is pleated.
If possible the bodice should be cut without a join. This may be done when the
skirt is made a yard long.
I obtain the pattern of a childs knickers as illustrated in Figure 8, by taking the
material 7 finger lengths wide and 5 finger lengths long and fold in to 10 folds deep
and 12 folds across, shown in dotted lines.
The back waist band W, I make 33 finger lengths wide and one deep.
The front band No. 2 inch less in length than the back band.
The knee bands W³ I make 2 finger lengths in width and
and the side V4 opening 1 folds deep.
finger length deep,
In order to fulfil the conditions of certain requirements of the Education Code,
needlework in which diagonal darn, hedgetear darn, and cross cut darn have to be
produced these being of the general class of needlework. I do not consider it
necessary to describe or illustrate them.
I will proceed to describe my improved method of obtaining patterns of garments
for the fourth years course of instruction in accordance with the requirements of
the Education Code.
My method of obtaining the pattern of a woman's chemise to scale, is illustrated
at Figure 9, and is similar to one of the methods hereinbefore described drawn to
scale, A, represents the front and B, the back, C the hollowing for neck and
E, the opening at front, H is one half of the neck band and H2 the other which
can be cut from the hollowing of either side.
My method of obtaining the pattern of a woman's chemise, by folding and
proportions is as follows:-
I take 9 finger lengths of material 36 inches wide or 8 finger lengths. Fold
length into 16, and width into 8. Sleeve slope half a fold in and across 3 for
length. Neck bands two thirds length of chemise, neck hollowed 1 fold deep
across 10 wide. Shoulder 1 folds. I have not thought it necessary to illustrate
this, it differing in no essential respects to those already described and illustrated.
I obtain the pattern of a man's night shirt by scale, by taking the material for
the frout 42 inches long by 32 inches or width of material wide. And for the
back 43 inches long by 32 inches wide. I obtain the length of collar in inches
and make all parts in proportion to this measurement.
I will describe a few extra patterns, obtained by my improved method but have
not considered it necessary to illustrate them they being similar to those already
shown in the various figures of the drawings.
First of which is a girls overall.
I take the material 7 finger lengths for the length, and 27 inches wide, or
6 finger lengths. Fold length into 8 folds, and width into 16. Make front same
as back but allow no opening.
Hollow for the sleeves from one fold each way. Allow for deep hem and tuck.
Sleeve take of a width of material for the sleeve make it about 3 finger
lengths long. Fold each way into 8.

page_text: Shape the top across 2 folds of the width, and one of the depth. Gather into a
band. Yoke make a field 2 finger lengths by 4 finger lengths. Fold into 12 folds
deep, and 8 folds across. Wrist band 2 finger lengths by deep.
Neck band 1 times length of sleeve band, of the depth.
My improved method of obtaining a pattern of a baby's shirt is similar to the
method of folding shown at Figure 1 is to take 2 finger lengths of material deep
and 5, finger lengths across, and fold in 8 folds each way.
To obtain the pattern of a cottage pinafore by taking 6 finger lengths for the
length of pinafore and one width of material 30 or 32 inches or 7 or 8 finger
lengths wide. Fold length of pinafore into 7 and width into 16 folds. Hollow
fold.
The various methods of obtaining patterns herein before described and illustrated
may be varied in any detail, as may be necessary to carry the object of my
invention into effect without departing from the nature thereof.
I
I may enlarge and reduce the patterns as circumstance may require, likewise
may increase or decrease the number of finger lengths taken, and fold in exactly
the way described or I may take the same proportion or scale after the reduction
or increase has been made, without departing from the nature of my said invention,
but,
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is
1. The improved methods of obtaining patterns for various garments for pupil
teachers and students to fulfil the requirements of the Education Code, sub-
stantially as herein before described and illustrated in the accompanying drawings.
2. In obtaining patterns and proportions for various garments by taking a
certain number of finger lengths in the manner substantially as and for the purpose
hereinbefore described and illustrated in the drawings.
3. In obtaining patterns and proportions for various garments by means of a
scale, by folding and by means of proportions substantially as and for the purpose
herein-before described and illustrated in the drawings.
4. In obtaining the various patterns for garments by the methods claimed above
substantially as hereinbefore described and illustrated in the accompanying-
drawings.
Dated this 25th day of November 1895.
WILLIAM HENRY BARACLOUGH,
36, Temple Street, Birmingham, Agent for the Applicant.