CERTAIN MACHINERY POR THE MANUFACTURE OF FANCY RIBBONS, ORNAMENTAL TRIMMINGS, CHENILLES, FRINGES, AND GIMPS
Year: 1852

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Hesketh Hughes and William Thomas
Denham, both of Cottage Place, City Road, in the County of
Middlesex, Manufacturers of Fancy Trimmings, for the Invention
of "CERTAIN MACHINERY POR THE MANUFACTURE OF FANCY RIBBONS,
ORNAMENTAL TRIMMINGS, CHENILLES, FRINGES, AND GIMPS."
Sealed the 4th May 1858, and dated the 5th November 1852.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Hesketh Hughes
and William Thomas Denham at the Office of the Commissioners
of Patents, with their Petition, on the 5th November 1852.
We, HESKETH HUGHES and WILLIAM THOMAS DENHAM, both of
Cottage Place, City Road, in the County of Middlesex, Manufacturers
of Fancy Trimmings, do hereby declare the nature of the said Inven-
tion for "CERTAIN MACHINERY FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF FANCY RIBBONS,
ORNAMENTAL TRIMMINGS, CHENILLES, FRINGES, AND GIMPS," to be as
follows:-
. The main feature of our Invention consists in winding silk, cotton,
wool, or even fine wire or other material, of which the fabric is to be

page_text: composed on to guides, from whence it is taken off, and pressed between
rollers, and spun up or twisted or not, as required. In some cases,
where we produce a fringe or chenille, we adapt cutters of various
shapes, so as to cut the edges of the material after it passes off the
guides; in other cases we leave a looped edge. The guides may be
fixed to any required width within the capabilities of the machine, or
they may be made moveable laterally by means of cams or cones,
whereby we are enabled to arrive at an infinity of pattern and shape in
the article produced. In almost all cases we have a foundation of one
or more threads of cotton, gutta percha, wire, silk, or other description
of thread, running longitudinally the whole length of the fabric to be
produced, and on, over, or between which threads the threads from the
guides are deposited. We sometimes heat the rollers, and find it
advisable, generally, to size the foundation thread when a metal or gutta
percha thread is not nsed. We also in some instances engrave or
emboss the rollers.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Hesketh Hughes and William Thomas Denham
in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 5th May 1853.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we,
HESKETH HUGHES and WILLIAM THOMAS DENHAM, both of Cottage
Place, City Road, in the County of Middlesex, Manufacturers of
Fancy Trimmings, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Fifth day of November, in the year's
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-two, in the six-
teenth year of IIer reign, did, for Herself, Ier heirs and successors,
give and grant unto us, the said Hesketh Hughes and William
Thomas Denham, Ifer special licence that we, the said Hesketh
Hughes and William Thomas Denham, our exccutors, administrators,
and assigns, or such others as we, the said Hesketh Hughes and
William Thomas Denham, our executors, administrators, and assigns,

page_text: should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time
and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should
and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United
Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle
of Man, an Invention for "CERTAIN MACHINERY FOR THE MANUFACTURE
OF FANCY RIBBONS, ORNAMENTAL TRIMMINGS, CHENILLES, FRINGES, AND
GIMPS," upon the condition (amongst others) that we, the said Hesketh
Hughes and William Thomas Denham, by an instrument in writing
under our hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to
be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent
Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the date
of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that we, the said Hesketh Hughes and William
Thomas Denham, do hereby declare the nature of our said Invention,
and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement thereof,
reference being had to the Drawings hereunto annexed, that is to say:
Our Invention consists in the manufacture of fancy ribbons, orna-
mental trimmings, chenilles, fringes, and gimps, by means of the
machinery represented in the Drawings hereunto annexed, and herein-
after described, and has for its object the production of the above
classes of goods without the aid of weaving or weaving machinery, at
the same time giving to such articles all the appearance of having been
woven. By means of our machinery a great deal of labor is saved
in the production of such articles and they are produced with great
rapidity.
The same letters of reference refer to similar parts in the Drawings.
Figure 1, is a side elevation, Figure 2, a front elevation of a machine
constructed according to our Invention.
A, A, is the general framework cast in a piece, with the sole
plate A. B, is the main driving shaft by which the whole of the
working parts of the machine are set in operation. This shaft B, is
mounted in the framework A, A, and has keyed upon one end of it
the By wheel B', set in motion by the crank handle B'. Should it,

page_text: carries
however, be desired, this shaft may be driven by means of a strap from
a steam engine or other prime mover. A², is a bevil wheel keyed upon
the shaft B, which gears into a bevil pinion C, on the shaft C', mounted
on the cross bars C, C³, screwed to the two uprights A, A, of the
framework. D, is a spur wheel keyed upon the shaft C', which gears
into the toothed pinion E, upon the shaft E', supported and turning in
the bracket C, and bearing C. The other end of the shaft E',
a bevil wheel F, which gears into a corresponding bevil pinion G, upon
the shaft G. This shaft G', is supported in the framework A, A, and
has cut upon it the screw threads a, a. As far as the shoulder b, formed
upon the shaft H, H, are a number of cams shaped out of discs of
sheet steel. These cams are mounted upon the shaft G³, and are kept
at their proper relative distances apart from each other by the washers
c, c, inteposed between them. I, I, are nuts, tapped to correspond with
the screwed portion a, a, of the shaft G', which keep the cams H, in
their assigned position, and also admit of an easy adjustment of the
cams by interposing broader or narrower washers. The shape of these
cams can be varied to suit the different kinds of work to be produced.
K, K, are guides, which are free to slide backwards and forwards in
the guide bars K', K', when acted upon by the cams H, I, there
being one guide to each cam. One end of each of these guides is
formed with a projecting piece or tooth d, which takes into hollows parts
of the cam, the guides being in a direct vertical line with the centre of
the cams. The other end of each of the guides is brought to a sharp
round point, for the purpose hereafter to be described. L, L, are brass
guides which are fixed to the guide bars K', and are projected forward
into the centre of the rollers M, N. The form of these guides is better
shewn in the detached view in Figure 3, which represents a plan. The
front of these guides is curved in the manner shewn, and slotted out
in front, so as to allow of the points of the shifting guides K, being
alternately pushed out beyond the centres of the roller by the action
of the cams H, acting upon the projecting tooth d. These points are
again withdrawn by means of india-rubber or other suitable springs e, e,
which are attached one to each guide K, and also to the framework.
The rollers M, N, are mounted in brasses in the framework, and are

page_text: cut away on each side of the centre parts M', N', so as to admit of the
forward action of the guides. P, is a toothed rim in gear with the spur
wheel D. This rim is supported and retained in its position by the
four friction rollers P1, P2, P3, P. The edge of the toothed rim .is
grooved, and the edges of the friction rollers are also turned to fit the
groove of the toothed rim P. Q, Q, are the bobbins which are attached
to the rim P, and revolve with it. The action of this rim P, in its
revolution is to carry round the bobbins Q, and so cause them to lay
their threads around those two of the projecting points of the shifting
guides K, which may be by the action of the cams thrust forward to
receive them. These projecting points must be so arranged as to act
in pairs, one point being thrust forward on cach side of the centre
parts M, N, of the rollers M, N. The guides L, L, first receive the
thread as the bobbins revolve; and from their front edges being of the
conical shape represented in Figure 3, and before described, the thread
slips down upon the points of the shifting guides which are protruded
forward, and is them carried into and between the centre of the
rollers M, N. The method of driving the rollers is accomplished by,
means of a pinion R, keyed upon the main driving shaft B. This
pinion R, gears into the intermediate toothed wheel S, supported and
turning in the forked lever S', by which it can be adjusted. The wheel
S, gears into and imparts motion to the spur wheel T, on the axis
of the centre roller N. U, is a pinion, also upon the same axis as
the wheel T, and which gears into the toothed pinions V, and W; the
pinion V being upon the lower roller M, and the pinion W upon the
axis of the upper roller O. X, X, are two other rollers, covered with
india-rubber or other suitable clastic material. These rollers are driven
by the pinions Y, Y', set in motion by the intermediate wheel Z, in
gear with the pinion W. O¹, arc, set screws which bear upon the
brasses of the rollers O, N, M, and by which the necessary distance
between these rollers can be regulated, so as to suit the various articles
passing between them. f,f, are a series of guide holes thro' the guide
bar K', for the purpose of introducing a number of threads into the
centre of the work to be formed. These threads are moistened with gum,
or any other suitable adhesive composition, and form the ground of the

page_text: work being fed into the machine at right angles to the threads laid by
the bobbins Q, Q. These ground threads may be inade of wire covered
with cotton, and moistened with adhesive composition, or strips of paper;
or any textile fabric may be fed into the machine, and covered with silk
or other kind of thread, according to the pattern desired. 9, is a tube
which is placed in communication with a gas pipe; it is continued
across the machine, and is pierced with a row of holes to allow of jets
of gas to burn beneath the rollers O, N, M, and so to impart a sufficient
quantity of heat to them to give the requisite set to the fabric passing
between them. h, h, are plates, which are placed in front and above
the jets of gas to prevent the flame from injuring the silk. Tho action
of the machine is as follows:-The fly wheel B', being set in motion by
the crank handle B², imparts a like motion to the main driving shaft B,
and thro' it, by the intervention of the gearing above described, to the
cams I, guides K, rim P, and bobbins Q; also to the rollers M, N, O,
and X,X; the result of which is, to cause the bobbins to wind the threads
round the conical guides L, from which they slide down on to that pair
of points which may be protruded forward by the cams H. These
points serve to lay the thread between the surfaces of the rollers M, N,
and also around the ground threads, which are consequently in the centre
of the article being formed. These points also determine the width of
the article, by the action of the cams constantly varying the width
between the points by protruding other pairs closer to or farther from
each other, thus producing a fabric with variegated edges. The rollers
M, N, being heated by the gas, as before described, serve to give the
requisite set to the fabric passing between them, by drying the adhesive
composition on the ground threads, and causing them to firmly adhere
to the transverse threads laid by the bobbins Q. The fabric, after
leaving the rollers M, N, is carried over the roller O, for insuring the
set, and more perfectly drying the fabric. From the roller O, the fabric
is carried through the rollers X, X, from which it is wound upon bobbins
or made up into the required articles for sale. In making fancy ribbons
it will be desirable that they should, after leaving the machine, be dressed
in the ordinary manner, for giving the necessary finish to them. For pro-
ducing fancy ribbons or other articles with plain edges, it will be necessary

page_text: to throw the cams H, out of gear, by displacing the toothed wheel E, and
by substituting the guides represented in Figures 4, 5, and 6, for the
guides L, which may be made to suit the required width of fabric. Orna-
mental trimmings may be produced by feeding into the machine, as the
ground, strips of tarlatan, muslin, satin, silk, quilling, or other suitable
material, and winding round them from the bobbins Q, various colored
threads in conjunction with the shifting guides K, or not, as desired.
It would be necessary to make use of one, two, or more ground threads
moistened with adhesive composition to secure the whole fabric together.
For the manufacture of chenille, fringes, gimps, and similar fancy and
ornamental articles, we make use of the rollers and knives such as
represented in Figure 7, a front view of the rollers O, N, M, and knife
attached, and in Figure 8, a side view of the same. Figure 5, represents
the kind of guide which we make use of. Instead of employing threads
for the groundwork of this class of fabrics we use wire covered with
thread, and saturated with adhesive composition. These wires are fed
into and between the rollers M, N, (which are groved as indicated at
i, i, to receive them,) thro' holes k, k, in the guide L. The knife l, is fixed
in the position represented in Figure 8, in reference to the rollers, so
that as the fabric is brought over the roller O, the knife serves to divide
it up the centre, the wire in the grooves i, i, keeping the fabric tight
as it passes to the knife. The fabric, as thus divided, forms a fringe
which can afterwards be spun up into chenille or other various forms of
fancy articles. Figures 9, and 10, are respectively side elevation and
end view of an apparatus which we use for spinning the fabrics into
chenille when formed in the machine represented in Figures 1, and 2.
A, is a sole plate; B, B, are two standards or uprights; C, is a disc or
pulley, which is centred upon the hollow axis a. This disc C, supports
a number of bobbins D, D, arranged in a circle, and on which are
wound the fringes or other class of articles intended to be spun up. The
axis a, is made hollow, in order to allow a wire thread or other suitable
substance being fed through from off the bobbin E. This wire or
thread is to form the ground or mandril around which the work is to be
wound; should it be desired, a mandril of greater thickness may be
substituted when making velvet piping or hollow chenille. The mandril

page_text: may also be of various shapes, such as round, flat, or polygonal, so as to
produce chenilles of a great variety of forms and patterns. F, F, are
pulleys, which are made with deep grooves, as shewn in Figure 11, so
as to insure the pile of the fabric being kept straight as it is wound
upon the ground thread or mandril, and to prevent it from being
entangled with the ground or selvage of the fabric. G, is an endless
band upon the rollers EI, H. This band is for determining the close-
ness of the pile of the article, according to the rate at which the band is
travelling, the speed being regulated by the conical pulleys I, I, by
which it is driven. K. is a pulley on the hollow axis a, for giving
motion to the disc C, and bobbins D, by means of an endless cord from
the cord wheel L, supported in the standard M, and driven by the
handle N. It will be seen that upon turning the handle N, the disc
and bobbins will be caused to revolve, and with it the endless band G;
the attendant should then take hold of tho wire or thread from the
bobbin E, and draw it through the hollow axis a, when work is formed
upon it. When a sufficient quantity has been thus commenced the
attendant brings it forward, and with the thumb and finger holds it
together with the endless band, which as it travels forward deter-
mine the closeness of the work laid by the bobbins. The fabric on
the bobbins is guided on to and around the manane by the notched
guide 6, there being one notch for each bobbin, so as to keep the
fabrics distinct and separate from each other, and also to insure the
perfect formation of the article. The wire or thread forming the
ground or mandril may be either left in or drawn out, as desired.
Instead of spinning up silk or thread fabrics from off the bobbins,
wire covered with silk or thread, or left uncovered, may be spun
up into gimps, bullion trimmings, fringes, and other fancy and orna-
mental fabrics. Or fabrics may be composed of part silk, wool, cotton,
or other suitable material combined with wire and spun up into a
great variety of patterns; and by diversifying the colors of the threads,
fabrics of various colors may be produced, according to the taste of the
manufacturer.
And having now described the nature of our said Invention, and the
manner in which the same is to be performed, we declare that we claim

page_text: the manufacture of fancy ribbons, ornamental trimmings, chenilles,
fringes, and gimps, by the arrangement and combination of machinery
herein-before described, and represented in Figures 1, to 11, inclusive,
of the Drawings hereunto annexed.
In witness whereof, we, the said Hesketh Hughes and William
Thomas Denham, have hereunto set our hands and seals, this
Fifth day of May, One thousand eight hundred and fifty-three.
HESKETH HUGHES.
(L.B.)
WILL THOS DENHAM. (LS.)