Improvements in Embroidering Machines.
Year: 1893

page_text: Date of Application, 2nd Mar., 1893
Complete Specification Left, 2nd Dec., 1893-Accepted, 17th. Feb., 1894
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Embroidering Machines.
We, EMILE CORNELY and ROBERT CORNELY of 87 Faubourg St. Denis, Paris
France Manufacturers of Sewing Machines do hereby declare the nature of this
invention to be as follows:-
The object of the present improvements is the construction of a machine which
works with a hook needle in such a manner that the chain stitch is obtained on the
under side of the material, the seam of the stitching being consequently upon the
upper side which permits the production of certain new kinds of works.
The machine is arranged in such a manner that the needle hook operates in an
upward direction from underneath the needle plate whilst the oscillating thread
carrier or looper is operated above the needle plate where it winds its thread around
the hook for the production of the chain stitch.
In the accompanying drawings:
:-
Fig. 1, represents a side view of the machine.
Fig. 2, represents a front view of the head of the machine.
The other figures are details hereinafter to be referred to in the course of this
Specification.
The main shaft A operates in the well known manner the mechanism of the
feed B which is placed upon shaft C, the slide D which is provided with a cam
groove (Figs. 3, 4 and 5) is also operated from main shaft A by means of roller a
which turns in said groove, it being operated by disc E of shaft A. The slide D
which in the well known "Bonnaz" machine operates the needle bar is utilized
here for the motion of the oscillating thread carrier or looper F.
The arm 6 of slide D is provided with a circular shaped fork c the studs 2 of
which (Fig. 5) project into the groove of nut H and operate this nut up and down
upon worm screws T which is thus set in oscillating motion on its axle K (Fig. 3).
The looper F being secured to worm screw T receives thus its oscillating motion.
In place of studs 2 which operate nut H, the arm 6 of slide D (Figs. 8 & 9) can
be provided with an annular collar c' which is shaped in such a manner that its
projecting part 21 enters into the groove of nut H and drives up and down; in
this case nut H is composed of two parts which are secured together by means of
screws 23.
The circular shaped fork c can also be in direct action in the groove of nut H
without using studs 2 as shewn in Fig. 10.
At every revolution of the machine the looper F winds its thread around hook d
as it rises from below. Hook d as well as nipple fare operated from main shaft A
either by means of cog wheels G, L, M, N or by means of spiral wheels h, i, k, p².
Figure 7 represents an enlarged view of hook d and looper F. The hook when
rising traverses the central hole of nipple g which in this case serves as needle
plate; upon the hook rising further it receives the thread coming from above
through the oscillating looper F then on its downward motion the hook takes the
loop with it and lays the chain stitch thereof upon the under side of the material
whilst a single seam stitch is produced upon the upper side.

page_text: this purpose: Central tube P is operated from crank handle Q by means of toothed
wheels 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 and 12; tube P is provided with a piece n (Fig. 3)
which projects into disc r, which consequently turns with tube P and with the
crank handle Q. Disc can turn easily in its bracket Disc is connected with
a similar disc S by means of rods (Figs. 2, 3 and 5) which make it turn with discr
when said disc is operated from the crank handle.
+
Disc S turns freely in bracket pl.
P.
Rods pass also through nut H which therefore turns with then and which
communicates its turning motion to the worm screw T upon which looper F is
.secured. Thus looper F is operated from crank handle Q.
.
$
CRANK HANDLE MOTION OF THE CROCHET HOOK.
The crochet hook is operated from the crank handle Q by means of toothed
wheels, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 13, 14, 15 and 16 (Fig. 1).
The thread is taken from bobbin S' through tension spring 17 down the central
tube P, through tube K, opening 18 (Fig. 7) and at last through the eyelet of the
looper F.
In order to facilitate the threading of looper F, cylinder O as well as nipple.g
and its sleeve 3 by means of which it is secured to the cylinder O, are provided
with openings 19 and 20 which communicate together by means of a slot (Figs. 2
and 6).
BRAIDING WITH CRANK HANDLE MOTION.
When braid is to be sewn on the material it is passed from bobbin R down
through central tube P, opening o and tube U. This tube .U.is secured in both
discs and S and penetrates also through nut H; it therefore turns. also with
crank handle Q.
From tube U the braid is finally passed through the braiding guide m upon the
material. In this case the braiding guide m and nipple g are made together of one
piece; consequently guide m turns with the crank handle because it is secured
by means of sleeve 3 to tube O which latter is screwed to disc S by means of
screws u.
In order to regulate the position of the braiding guide m thin plates (Fig. 3)
can be introduced between cylinder O and disc S; similar plates y can be placed
between bed plate V and plate W and are held together by means of pin and
can thus easily be taken in or out.
This latter arrangement offers the great advantage of facilitating the handling
of the cloth when these plates are removed as nipple g is not.movable.
Dated this Second day of March 1893.
Improvements in Embroidering Machines.
We, EMILE CORNELY and ROBERT CORNELY of 87 Faubourg St. Denis Paris,
France, Manufacturers of Sewing Machines, do hereby declare the nature of this
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly 4
described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
The object of the present improvements is the construction of a machine which
works with a hooked needle in such a manner that the chain stitch is obtained on

page_text: the underside of the material, the seam of the stitching being consequently upon
the upper side which permits the production of certain new kinds of works
particularly such as braiding work in which it is desirable that the stitching should
appear upon the braid and that the chain stitch should be produced on the underside
of the material so as not to injure the appearance of the braiding work.
The machine is constructed in such a manner that the needle hook operates in
an upward direction from underneath the needle plate whilst the oscillating thread
carrier or looper is operated above the needle plate where it winds its thread
around the hook for the production of the chain stitch and that the stitch producing
organs can be directed by a crank handle in conformity with the universal feed of
the machine.
In the accompanying drawings:-
Fig. 1 represents a side view of the machine.
Fig. 2 represents a front view of the head of the machine.
The other figures are details hereafter to be referred to in the course of this
Specification.
The main shaft A operates in the well known manner the mechanism of the
feed B which is operated by bar C. The slide D which is provided with a cam
groove 30 (Figs. 3 & 4) is also operated from main shaft A by means of roller a
which turns in said groove, it being operated by disc E of shaft A. The heart-
slide D which in the well-known Bonnaz machine operates the needle-bar is utilized
here for the motion oscillating thread carrier or looper F.
The arm b of heart-slide D is provided with a circular shaped fork c the studs 2
of which (Fig. 5) project into the groove of nut H and operate this nut up and
down upon guides t and worm-screw T which is thus set in oscillating motion on
its axle K (Figs. 3 & 11). The looper F being secured to worm-screw T receives
thus its oscillating motion.
In place of studs 2 which operate nut H the arm b of heart-slide D (Figs. 8 & 9)
can be provided with an annular collar c' which is shaped in such a manner that
its projecting part 21 enters into the groove of nut H and drives it up and down;
in this case nut H is composed of two parts which are secured together by means
of screws 23.
The circular shaped fork c can also be in direct action in the groove of nut H
without using studs 2 as shewn in Fig. 10.
At every revolution of the machine the looper F winds its thread around hook d
as it rises from below. Hook d as well as nipple fare operated underneath the
cloth plate in a similar manner to that described in the Specification of W. E. Gedge
No. 3590 of 1868 either by means of cog wheels G, L, M, N or by means of spiral
wheels h, i, k, p' and shaft I or by any other transmission gearings from the main
shaft A.
Figure 7 represents an enlarged view of hook d and looper F. The hook when
rising traverses the central hole of nipple 9 which in this case serves as needle
plate; upon the hook rising further it receives the thread coming from above
through the oscillating looper F, then on its downward motion the book takes the
loop with it and lays the chain stitch thereof upon the underside of the material
whilst a single seam stitch is produced upon the upper side.
CRANK HANDLE MOTION OF THE LOOper.
The looper F and the needle hook have to turn in conformity with the crank
handle which operates the direction of the feed; the following mechanism is
adopted for this purpose.
Central tube P is operated from crank handle Q
(Fig. 1) by means of toothed wheels 4, 5, 6, 14, 13, 9, 10, 11, 12; tube P is
provided with a piece n (Fig. 3) which projects into disc which consequently turns
with tube P and with the crank handle Q. Disc r can turn easily in its bracket p.
Disc is connected with a similar disc S by means of rods t (Figs. 2, 3, & 5) which
pass through the screw nut H and through disc S and which make both these turn'

page_text: with disc r when the latter is operated from the crank handle Q. Disc S turns
freely in bracket p².
As rods t pass also through nut H the latter turns with said rods and com-
municates its turning motion to the worm-screw T upon which looper F is secured.
Thus looper F is operated from crank handle Q.
As rods t pass also through nut H the latter turns with said rods and com-
municates its turning motion to the worm-screw T upon which looper F is secured.
Thus looper F is operated from crank handle Q.
CRANK HANDLE MOTION OF THE CROCHET Hook.
The crochet hook is operated from the crank-handle Q by means of toothed
wheels 4, 5, 6, 15 and 16 (Fig. 1).
The thread is taken from-bobbin S through tension spring 17 down the central
tube P through tube K, opening 18 (Fig. 7) and at last through the eyelet 31 of
the looper F.
In order to facilitate the threading of looper F, cylinder 0 as well as nipple
and its sleeve 3 by means of which it is secured to the cylinder O are provided with
openings 19 and 20 which communicate together by means of a slot (Figs. 2 & 6)
or said openings may be made of one large slot as represented at Figs. 13
and 14.
BRAIDING WITH CRANK HANDLE MOTION.
When braid is to be sewn on the material it is passed from bobbin R (Figs. 1
& 2) down through central tube P opening o and tube U. This tube U is secured
in both discs and S and penetrates also through nut H; it therefore turns also
with crank handle Q.
From tube U the braid is finally passed through the braiding-guide m upon the
material. In this case the braiding-guide m and nipple g are made together of
one piece; consequently the guide m turns with the crank handle because it
is secured by means of sleeve 3 to tube O which latter is secured to disc S by
means of screws u.
ቀ
Instead of the disc or nut which can turn freely in the bracket p (Fig. 3) and
which is turned by shaft P by means of the part or screw n, a nut X (Fig. 11)
can be employed which is secured upon the shaft P by means of a screw Y. In
this case shaft P turns in a suitable bearing p (Fig. 11) and a cavity 32 is made in
the nut X for the passage of the braid. It has also been found that the tube U
can be entirely dispensed with and that the braid can pass directly from the
passage 32 of nut X through the hole in the screw nut H and through a similar
hole in the nut S and thence directly to the braiding guide. In this arrangement
the rods t are secured to the nut X as represented at Figs 11 and 12.
In order to regulate the height of the braiding guide m, thin plates x (Fig. 3)
can be introduced between cylinder O and the disc S; similar plates y can be
placed between bed plate V and plate W and are held together by means of pin Z
and can thus easily be taken in or out.
This latter arrangement offers the great advantage of facilitating the handling
of the cloth when the plates are removed.
The braiding guide m is also adjustable horizontally as the sleeve 3 is secured.
to its tube O by means of screws 33 which pass through horizontal slots as shewn
at Figure 13.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what
we claim is:-
1. In embroidering machines with universal feed the arrangement of the thread
looper above and of the needle below the needle plate for the purpose of producing
the plain stitching on the upper and the chain stitching on the lower side of the
material substantially as herein set forth.
2. The operation of the thread looper above the cloth plate by means of a screw
nut H actuated by the heart-slide D.

page_text: 3. The transmission of the crank handle motion to the looper by means of the
reciprocating screw nut H which receives its turning motion from the crank-
handle by means of suitable gearings, shafts and cylinders or nuts as herein
described.
4. The passage of the braid from bobbin R through screw nut H which operates
the oscillating looper.
5. The thin plates y which regulate the passage of the work and facilitate the
handling of the material.
6. The thin plates which regulate the height of the nipple according to the
thickness of the material.
Dated this Second day of December 1893.