IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES
Year: 1878

page_text: "
LETTERS PATENT to William Robert Lake, of the Firm of Haseltine, Lake,
& Co., Patent Agents, Southampton Buildings, London, for the Invention of
IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES." A communication from abroad by
Jesse Edward Folk, of Brooklyn, New York, United States of America,
Merchant.
Sealed the 7th May 1878, and dated the 13th March 1878.
•
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Robert Lake at the
.Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 13th March 1878.
WILLIAM ROBERT LAKE, of the Firm of Haseltine, Lake, & Co., Patent Agents,
Southampton Buildings, London. "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES.". [A
communication from abroad by Jesse Edward Folk, of Brooklyn, New York,
United States of America, Merchant.]
This Invention is more especially designed as an improvement on the well-known
Wheeler & Wilson old style of sewing machines, in which the stitch is drawn tight
and completed by the rotating hook at the same time that the next stitch is in
course of formation, the slack thread that has to be taken up to complete the stitch
being detained below the cloth plate by a brush or pad until the rotating hook can
act upon it..
This Invention may, however, be adapted to a greater or less extent to other
sewing machines' shuttle, as well as hook machines, and may be used with straight
needles and needle bars, or with vibratory arms and curved needles, as described
herein-after.
The object of the said Invention is mainly to take up and complete each stitch
without drawing the needle thread back through the eye of the needle, thereby
obviating the friction and wear upon the thread from its alternate to-and-fro move-
ment through the eye of the needle, in passing out to a sufficient extent for the
shuttle or bobbin, as the case may be, to pass through its loop, and then back and
up to complete and tighten the stitch.
•

page_text: Its object is further with reference to the so-called Wheeler & Wilson sewing
machines, first-above mentioned, and other similar machines, to dispense with the
pad or brush herein-before named, and thereby avoid the friction of the same upon
the rotating hook with the consequent heating of the latter and adjacent parts,
resulting at times in so much expansion of the metal parts in contact as to cause
imperfect working of the machine; its object being also to tighten the stitch in one
direction only at a time, and not in two directly opposite directions, as is the case
with the pad or brush machines just mentioned, which unfit them for stitching
through heavy fabrics, owing to the great friction of the thread in the fabric.
To overcome the objections to the pad or brush machines, various devices have
been employed for rotating hook machines to enable the stitch to be drawn tight
and completed before the re-entering of the fabric by the needle, but owing to the
size of the loop drawn out by the book being so much greater than the loop
requisite for shuttles in shuttle inachines, and so little time existing in which to
draw up the stitch, from the period at which the hook reaches that stage in its
rotation at which the loop can oscape, and the period at which the needle must
descend and re-enter the fabric to meet the hook for the succeeding stitch, none of
these devices have accomplished the desired object without entailing other dis-
advantages. Such, for instance, is the differential rotating motion imparted to the
hook in most instances, which motion is a hard and unnatural one, and although it
gives more time for the action of the take-up, it does so at the cost of reduced speed
and greater power to run the machine with more wear of parts. My object is to
retain the uniform rotation of the hook with the attendant speed and light running,
while securing the other advantages herein mentioned.
This Invention comprises in a sewing machine a take-up, so arranged as to take a
up or draw tight each stitch in succession by drawing upon the needle thread
between the eye of the needle and the fabric, whereby instead of taking up the
stitch between the time the needle leaves the fabric and re-enters it, the stitch may
be taken up and tightened, while the needle, in the act of forming the next succeed-
ing stitch, is descending and passing into and through the fabric, and before it :
begins its ascent, the action of the needle lessening the length of thread necessary
to be taken up by the take-up, allowing the action of the take-up to commence at
a later.period in the rotation of the book in hook machines (or in the motion of the
shuttle in shuttle machines), thereby permitting of a uniform rotation of the hook
with great speed and case, and a minimum of wear and friction, obviating the
necessity of a tension upon the bobbin thread as in cases where the hook rotates
with a differential motion, and above all obviating the friction and wear of the
thread incident to taking up the stitch by drawing upon the thread between the
needle eye and spool or supply thread, which causes a constant to-and-fro movement
of the thread through the needle eye; accomplishing my object as I do by drawing
the thread in one general direction only to take up the stitch, thereby exerting
a minimum strain upon the thread and wear upon the fabric, with consequent
light running of the machine, enabling heavy fabrics to be stitched with ease and
accuracy.
This Invention further comprises a take-up hook, constructed and arranged to
take up the stitch, and then to recede, letting go the slack and passing the needle
thread to resume its position to engage the latter in its next motion, whereby all
eyes or other fixed positions for holding the thread while being taken up are dis-
pensed with.
This Invention further comprises novel arrangements and combinations of parts,
whereby a more simple, durable, effective, and perfect sewing machine is secured
than has been hitherto devised.
In carrying the said Invention into practice, the presser arm and foot are attached
to the fixed arm of the machine, the fixed arm likewise constituting at its outer
end a support for the take-up hook, which consists of an arm or lever pivotted to the
fixed arm, and having at its lower end a hook so shaped that it will readily engage
with and retain hold of the thread while taking it up, or drawing it outwards,

page_text: and will slip or shoulder past the taut thread on its return, the end of the hook for
that purpose being slightly curved or bowed toward the direction, in which it takes
up the thread. At the upper end of the said take-up hook is a slot of suitable
shape to impart the proper time and motions to the said take-up hook, which is
actuated by a pin and roller attached to the outer end of a vibratory or rocking
needle arm, said roller working in the said slot.
I provide a tension device through which the spool thread passes to an eye and
thence to the needle, being carried through the eye of the latter.
I provide a rotating hook of substantially the shape of the old style of the so-
called Wheeler & Wilson hook, except that the heel is turned inward and continues
until it meets the opposite side of the hook, in order to present an unbroken surface
free from corners and angles to the passage of the slack thread when carried
upward by the said take-up hook after being released by the said rotating
hook.
I employ a lenticular bobbin of usual construction retained in its place in the said
rotating hook by a ring slide, which is in turn secured by a thumbscrew. The
said rotating hook has its rotating motion transmitted to it by a shaft in which it
is secured.
The movement of the said take-up hook is rather horizontal than vertical, but if
desired it may be given more of a vertical motion to give a more direct draw upward
of the thread.
Instead also of a swinging motion, it may be so constructed and arranged as to
pass the path of the needle by such motion, and then acquire more of a reciprocating
vertical motion, which may be preferred, in order to reduce the friction of the thread
in the cloth to a minimum.
By employing a second needle adjoining the first one, and arranged in line with
it and the said needle arm, and providing a second spool or supply thread, the take-
up hook (or if preferred, two distinct take-ups may be used) may be made to take
up the two needle threads, after the rotating hook carries the two loops over the
bobbin to form a double row of stitching on top of the fabric, united or locked
below by the one bobbin thread.
By means of this Invention it will be seen that wax-thread sewing may be
more readily accomplished, the thread not having to pass back and forth
through the eye of the needle with its liability to heat, and bend or break the
needle.
It will also be seen that by having the needle in the cloth at the time of
taking up the switch, the strain or tension upon the needle is in such a direct line
with its length as not to disturb or affect its shape by bending or springing, thus
enabling the advantageous use of curved needles with the accuracy and fineness of
stitch thereby obtainable.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed
by the said William Robert Lake in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
11th September 1878.
A
WILLIAM ROBERT LAKE, of the Firm of Haseltine, Lake, & Co., Patent Agents,
Southampton Buildings, London. "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES.”
communication from abroad by Jesso Edward Folk, of Brooklyn, New York,
United States of America, Merchant.
This Invention is more especially designed as an improvement on the well-known
"Wheeler & Wilson" old style of sewing machines, in which the stitch is drawn
tight and completed by the rotating hook at the same time that the next stitch is in
course of formation, the slack thread that has to be taken up to complete the stitch
being detained below the cloth plate by a brush or pad until the rotating hook can
act upon it.
This Invention may, however, be adapted to a greater or less extent to other
.sewing machines' shuttle, as well as hook machines, and may be used with straight
needles and needle bars, or with vibratory arms and curved needles, as described
herein-after.
The object of the said Invention is mainly to take up and complete each stitch
without drawing the needle thread back through the eye of the needle, thereby
obviating the friction and wear upon the thread from its alternate to-and-fro move-
ment through the eye of the needle in passing out to a sufficient extent for the
shuttle or bobbin, as the case may be, to pass through its loop, and then back and
up to complete and tighten the stitch.
Its object is further with reference to the so-called "Wheeler & Wilson" sewing
machines, first-above mentioned, and other similar machines, to dispense with the
pad or brush herein-before named, and thereby avoid the friction of the same upon
the rotating hook with the consequent heating of the latter and adjacent parts,
resulting at times in so much expansion of the metal parts in contact, as to cause
imperfect working of the machine, its object being also to tighten the stitch in
one direction only at a time, and not in two directly opposite directions, as is
the case with the pad or brush machines just mentioned, which unfits them
for stitching through heavy fabrics, owing to the great friction of the thread in the
fabric.
To overcome the objections to the pad or brush machines, various devices have
been employed for rotating hook machines, to enable the stitch to be drawn tight
and completed before the re-entering of the fabric by the needle, but owing to the
size of the loop drawn out by the hook being so much greater than the loop
requisite for shuttles in shuttle machines, and so little time existing in which to
draw up the stitch from the period at which the hook reaches that stage in its
rotation at which the loop can escape, and the period at which the needle must
descend and re-enter the fabric to meet the hook for the succeeding stitch; none of
these devices have accomplished the desired object without entailing other dis-
advantages; such, for instance, is the differential rotating motion imparted to the
hook in most instances, which motion is a hard and unnatural one, and although it
gives more time for the action of the take-up, it does so at the cost of reduced speed
and greater power to run the machine with more wear of parts. My object is to
retain the uniform rotation of the hook with the attendant speed and light running
while securing the other advantages herein mentioned.
This Invention comprises in a sewing machine a take-up device, so arranged as
to take up or draw tight each stitch in succession by drawing upon the needle
thread between the eye of the needle and the fabric, whereby instead of taking up
the stitch between the time the needle leaves the fabric and re-enters it, the stitch
may be taken up and tightened, while the needle, in the act of forming the next
succeeding stitch, is descending and passing into and through the fabric and before
it begins its ascent, the action of the needle lessening the length of thread necessary

page_text: •
to be taken up by the take-up, allowing the action of the take-up to commence at
a later period in the rotation of the hook in hook machines (or in the motion of
the shuttle in shuttle machines), thereby permitting a uniform rotation of the
hook with great speed and case, and a minimum of wear and friction, obviating the
necessity of a tension upon the bobbin thread, as in cases where the hook rotates
with a differential motion, and above all obviating the friction and wear of the
thread incident to taking up the stitch by drawing upon the thread between the
needle eye and spool or supply thread, which causes a constant to-and-fro move-
ment of the thread through the needle eye, accomplishing my object as I do by
drawing the thread in one general direction only to take up the stitch, thereby
exerting a minimum strain upon the thread and wear upon the fabric, with conse-
quent light running of the machine, enabling heavy fabrics to be stitched with ease
and accuracy.
This Invention further comprises a take-up hook, constructed and arranged to
take up the stitch and then to recede, letting go the slack and passing the needle
thread to resume its position to engage the latter in its next motion, whereby all
eyes or other fixed portions for holding the thread while being taken up are dis-
pensed with.
This Invention further comprises novel arrangements and combinations of parts,
whereby a more simple, durable, effective, and perfect sewing machine is secured
than has been hitherto devised.
In the accompanying Drawing,-
Figure 1 represents a perspective view of a sewing machine, embodying this
Invention.
Figures 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, and 7 represent face views of a portion of the said machine;
and Figures 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, and 7a represent side views of the same portion with
the various parts in corresponding positions.
Figure 8 represents a face view of the rotating hook.
A is the fixed arm of the said machine, to which is attached the presser arm and
foot C, the fixed arm A likewise constituting at its outer end a support for the
take-up hook D, which consists of an arm or lever pivotted at ɖ² to the fixed arm A,
and having at its lower end d' a hook so shaped that it will readily engage with
and retain hold of the thread while taking it up or drawing it outwards, and will
slip or shoulder past the taut thread on its return, the end of the hook for that
purpose being slightly curved or bowed toward the direction in which it takes up
the thread. At the upper end of the take-up hook D is a slot d, of suitable shape
to impart the proper time and motions to the take-up hook D, which is actuated by
a pin and roller b attached to the outer end of the vibrating or rocking needle arm
B, said roller b working in the slot d.
G is the tension, through which the spool thread passes to the eye and thence to
the needle K, being carried through the eye of the latter.
E is the rotating hook, of substantially the shape of the old style Wheeler &
Wilson hook, except, as shown in Figure 8, the heel e¹ is turned inwards, and con-
tinues until it meets the opposite side of the hook, in order to present an unbroken
surface free from corners and angles to the passage of the slack thread when
carried upward by the take-up hook D, after being released by the rotating
hook E.
F is the lenticular bobbin, of usual construction, retained in its place in the
rotating hook E by the ring slide H, which is in turn secured by the thumbscrew h.
The hook E has its rotating motion transmitted to it by the shaft I, in which it is
secured.
. J is the table or cloth plate, upon which the fabric to be stitched is held by the
presser foot C. The needle K is in this instance a curved one, rigidly secured in the
vibratory arm B. A straight needle may, however, be used with suitable holding
mechanism, whether needle bar or other device.
In operating this machine the various parts being in the position shewn in
Figures 2 and 2º, the needle K.having. descended. through.the.cloth.c, carrying with

page_text: it the needle thread f, and then risen sufficiently to form the loop f¹, into which the
nosc c of the rotating book E has entered, the further rotation of the hook E, as
as shown in Figures 3 and 3ª, carries the needle loop f¹ partially over the bobbin F
with its thread g, the needle K having meanwhile risen out of and above the cloth o
and the take-up hook D, being near the needle thread between the needle eye kanda
the cloth c, and ready to engage with such thread to take it up.
In Figures 4 and 4 the rotating hook E in its further movement has carried the
loop f¹ so far that it may readily slip from or be cast off by the nose e of the former,
and complete its motion over the bobbin, or in other words, the passage of the
bobbin through the said loop, the needle K having again re-entered the cloth c in 1
its descent, and the take-up hook D having moved out sufficiently to pass the path
of the needle, and engage the needle thread f, retaining it until the release of the
loop by the hook E enables the take-up hook D to continue its course, taking
the loop up through the cloth c and outwards, as shown in Figures 5 and 5ª,
locking the bobbin thread g with it as the take-up hook D reaches its extreme
course and tightens the stitch, the needle K forming at its eye one tension point,
and the cloth c at the preceding needle hole the other tension point, between which
the tightening of the stitch occurs.
The take-up hook D then, as shown in Figures 6 and 6ª, disengages itself and
recodes from the thread just taken up, and the rotating hook E in its further course
enters the second loop made by the needle K, which has again started upwards,
which done, the hook È in its further rotation carries down the loop released by the
take-up hook D, and when such has been done, drawing from the needle K sufficient
thread in addition for the stitch in course of formation, the take-up hook D passing
the taut needle thread by forcing it aside, as seen in Figures 7 and 7ª, to resume its
position for taking up the stitch now being formed.
It will be seen that the take-up hook D is shewn as having a swinging or
oscillating motion given to it by the vibrating or rocking motion of the arm B,
acting through the roller b.
It will also be observed that the movement of the take-up hook D is rather
horizontal than vertical. If desired, it may however be given more of a vertical
motion to give a more direct draw upward of the thread.
Moreover instead of having a swinging motion it may be constructed and arranged
to pass the path of the needle by such motion, and then acquire more of a recipro-
cating vertical motion which may be preferred, in order to reduce the friction of the
thread in the cloth to a minimum.
By employing a second needle adjoining the one shown and arranged in line with
it and the needle bar B, and providing a second spool or supply thread, the take-up
hook (or if preferred two distinct take-ups may be used) may be made to take up
the two needle threads after the rotating hook carries the two loops over the bobbin
to form a double row of stitching on top of the fabric united or locked below by the
one bobbin thread.
By my Invention it will be seen that wax thread sewing may be more readily
accomplished, the thread not having to pass back and forth through the eye of the
needle with its liability to heat, and bend or break the needle.
It will also be seen that by having the needle in the cloth at the time of taking
up the stitch the strain or tension upon the needle is in such a direct line with its
length as not to disturb or affect its shape by bending or springing, thus enabling
the advantageous use of curved needles with the accuracy and fineness of stitch
thereby obtainable.
Having thus fully described the said Invention as communicated to me by my
foreign correspondent, and the manner of performing the same, I wish it understood
that I claim,
First. The combination, as above set forth, with the stitch-forming mechanism of
a take-up device, which engages the needle thread at a point between the needle
eye and the fabric, and operates to take up the slack of and tighten one stitch after
the needle has entered the cloth for the next succeeding stitch.

page_text: Second. The combination in a sewing machine of the following elements, namely,
an eye-pointed needle, a take-up device, which engages the needle thread between
the needle eye and the fabric, and operates to tighten one stitch after the needle
has entered the cloth for the next succeeding stitch, and a rotating hook arranged
to draw the slack thread as it is given up or released by the take-up, these parts
being combined and operating, as above set forth.
Third. The combination of stitch-forming mechanism and a take-up device
arranged for joint operation, as set forth, whereby the loop of needle thread
is taken up between the needle eye and the fabric, and while the needle
during the whole or the greater part of the taking up of the said loop is in the
fabric.
Fourth. In a two or more thread-sewing machine, the combination with the
stitch-forming mechanism of a take-up device, arranged to take up direct between
the needle eye and the fabric, the slack needle thread of the loop cast off or
released by the hook or shuttle, or equivalent part, as and for the purposes set
forth.
Fifth. In a sewing machine the combination with the needle of a take-up device,
which moves in a path intersecting the path of the needle, and is operated to cross
the needle path and engage the needle thread between the eye of the needle and
the fabric for the purpose of tightening the stitch when the needle is descending
for the next succeeding stitch.
Sixth. In combination with the stitch-forming mechanism the take-up hook,
constructed and arranged to take up the slack needle thread, then to disengage it,
and then to shoulder past the taut needle thread to resume its first position, as and
for the purpose herein set forth.
Seventh. The combination of the take-up hook, the rotating hook, the bobbin,
and the eye-pointed needle, all arranged for operation, as and for the purpose herein
set forth.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Robert Lake, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Eleventh day of September, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and seventy-eight.
TITH DADE T77B