Improvements in and relating to Ladies' Skirts.
Year: 1896

page_text: Date of Application, 31st Mar., 1896-Accepted, 9th May, 1896
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in and relating to Ladies' Skirts.
1, ALFRED SAMUEL PHILLIPS, of 58 Regent Street, London, Tailor, do hereby
declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be
performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:-
This invention relates to improvements in and relating to ladies' skirts, my
improvements being more especially useful when applied to skirts worn by ladies
when cycling, although I do not confine the application of my improvements to
such skirts.
My invention consists firstly in a skirt capable of being readily "lengthened "
or "shortened" i.e. lowered or raised in the manner substantially as hereinafter
described, and secondly in a divided skirt which will hang more gracefully and in
which the division will not be noticeable when the wearer is walking, and the
skirt will fall equally on each side when the wearer is cycling.
In order that my invention may be readily understood, reference is made to the
accompanying drawing which shows a skirt provided with my improvements.
For the purpose of enabling the skirt A to be readily lengthened or shortened, I
allow the upper part a' of the "back width" a of the material of which the skirt
is made, to remain free or detached at both its side edges, i.e. I do not sew or
otherwise attach it to the edges of the "side widths." This "free" part a¹ which
is about 10 inches in length measuring from the waist, is capable of folding back
and is provided with hooks at both its corners a 2. The upper edges of both the
"side widths" are provided at their extreme corners & with ordinary hook and eye
fastening or equivalent, so as to be adjusted around the waist, and the free part a¹
referred to is in this event hooked to suitable eyes with which the top of the skirt
is provided for this purpose at 62. When the waist portion of the skirt is fastened
as described it fits around the smaller part of the waist and is supported in its most
raised or "shortest" position as required when cycling, and in order to lower or
lengthen "the skirt as is desirable when walking, all that is necessary is to unfasten
the side widths at b¹ and to unhook the free part a' of the back width, and to hook
the corners a 2 to suitable eyes say at 63, the effect being that the diameter or size
of the waist of the skirt is increased, thus allowing said skirt to fall a sufficient
distance on the hips thereby "lengthening "the skirt for walking. I wish it to be
understood that I do not confine myself to any particular arrangement of the
different parts referred to and also that the position and number of the hooks and
eyes may be any which may be found necessary or most convenient, but I prefer to
so arrange the hooks and eyes that the corners a 2 may be attached to the skirt
either at 62 when the skirt is fully raised, at 63 when the skirt is partially lowered
or to the corners b' whereby the skirt is lowered to its full extent. A loose fronted
jacket or coat is preferably to be worn when my improved skirt referred to is worn
during long distance cycling, although any other jacket, coat or bodice may be
worn.
For the purpose of causing a divided skirt to hang gracefully and to render the
division invisible when walking, and in order that said skirt will fall equally on
each side of the cycle frame when the wearer is cycling, and further also in order
to obviate the necessity of the cyclist sitting on the skirt when cycling, I form or

page_text: provide the back of the skirt A with preferably two box plaits P of suitable
dimensions and I make the necessary division in the skirt at a part of said skirt
preferably between said box plaits and at a part which is normally well covered by
one of said box plaits as indicated by the dotted line c. The said division does not
wholly divide the skirt as has been hitherto the case, but said slit extends only to
within say about 10 inches from the waist or to such other height that it will reach
slightly above the height of the saddle, and also so that one box plait will fall
gracefully on each side of the frame of the cycle. The dimensions of the box
plaits and the position of the division c as well as the cut of the material are such
that when the lady wearing my improved skirt is cycling the tendency of the box
plaits will be to keep the division closed and covered. I wish it to be understood
that I have shown two box plaits merely as an example, and I do not confine
myself to such a number.
gore
I prefer in cutting out the material of which the skirt is to be made, to especially
well " "the "side widths" so as to allow the cyclist considerable freedom
when cycling and also so that even when the knee is raised to its highest position
the lay of the back drapery will not be interfered with nor will the ankle or the
limb be exposed, and further, by this "goring" of the material, the movement of
the limbs will not cause the least drag or creasing of the drapery.
To prevent the skirt or a riding habit being blown about to any considerable
extent, I attach two vertically disposed and preferably elastic straps or the like, to
the underside of the skirt, said straps being attached at their upper ends to the
skirt and provided at the other end with button holes so as to be readily capable of
being buttoned on to the gaiters. Straps such as described prevent the skirt being
blown about to any great extent while yet allowing full freedom to move the
limbs.
I prefer to provide the skirt with a pocket at each or either side preferably at
the point of the hip, and in order that the back width of my improved skirt shall
always tend to hang gracefully I prefer to line the box plait and the bottom of the
skirt with any suitable material.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. A skirt A the "back width " a of which skirt is formed or provided with box
plaits P, the material of the skirt being divided from its lower edge to within a
suitable distance from the waist portion of said skirt, the position of said division
and the dimensions of the box plait being such that said division is normally
covered by one of said plaits as indicated at c, a part a' of the back width of said
skirt being also left free or detached at its side edges, the corners of said free
part a being provided with hooks adapted to engage with corresponding
eyes with which the waist portion of the "side widths" are provided at
suitable positions, such as b³, 62, 63, all for the purposes and substantially as
described.
2. A skirt the back width a of which is formed or provided with box plaits P,
the material of the skirt being divided from its lower edge to within a suitable
distance from the waist portion of said skirt, the position of said division and the
dimensions of the box plait being such that said division is normally covered by one
of said plaits for the purposes and substantially as described.
3. A skirt having
portion a¹ of the upper part of the back width a free or
detached from the side widths, the corners a 2 of said portion a¹ being provided with
hooks or equivalents and the upper edge of the skirt being provided with
corresponding eyes or equivalents at suitable positions, such as at b1, b2 and 63 all
for the purposes and substantially as described.
4. The combination with a cycling or walking skirt or riding habit of a vertically
disposed strap attached at its upper end to the underside of said skirt or habit, and

page_text: adapted to be fastened at the other or lower end to the gaiter, for the purpose and
substantially as described.
Dated this 31st day of March 1896.
ALBERT SAMUEL PHILLIPS,
By his Agents, Horn, Son & Co.,
151 Strand, next Somerset House, London.