Improvements in the Manufacture of Mixed or Parti-coloured Fabrics.
Year: 1896

page_text: Date of Application in the (United Kingdom), 11th Dec. 1896
Complete Specification Left, 11th June, 1897-Accepted, 31st July, 1897
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Mixed or Parti-coloured
Fabrics.
We HENRY GIESLER of Molsheim, Alsace, in the Empire of Germany, Dyer, and
JOSEPH DABERT of 1ter Rue du Congrès, Asnières, near Paris, in the Republic of
France, Textile Printer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as
follows:-
This Invention is applicable to fabrics of any description, such as those made of
wool, cotton, silk, or mohair, or mixtures thereof, for example, and whether the said
fabrics have, or have not, been bleached, dyed, or subjected to other preparatory
processes, such as pile-cutting, or shearing, singeing, steaming, washing, fulling,
treating with chlorine, or the like, and whether the fabrics be woven from plain, or
from coloured threads.
According to this Invention there is applied either upon one side, or upon both
sides of the fabric either dyestuffs, or mordants, or both dye-stuffs and mordants
by means of an impressing, or printing, operation, which may be applied by any
well known device, such, for instance, as pressure-rollers, or blocks, or the like.
In thus impressing, or printing, the fabrics, one design, or a number of designs,
may be employed, which, however, should be as little pronounced, or marked, as
possible; they preferably consisting of minute dots, streaks, or similar irregularly
disposed groundwork. The same design may be applied in the same, or different,
colours, to both sides of the fabric, or a different design may be used for each side,
if both sides are to be treated. Between the lines, or figures, of the design so
impressed, or printed, the original colour of the fabric should remain conspicuously
visible.
The desired graduations of shades are obtained either by diluting the colouring
matter, or by more, or less, deeply engraving the design on the roller, or printing
plate..
Fast colours only should be used and they should be carefully "fixed," or
"ingrained," which can be done by steaming. This process must be carried out
very slowly and extended over a somewhat long period so that the colours may not
be damaged by the subsequent treatment to which the fabric is submitted. This
is very essential, as, up to the present time, where animal fibre has beeu printed
npon, the pieces under treatment have been found incapable of even resisting mere
washing for any length of time.
The next stage of the process consists in altering the relative positions of the

page_text: component fibres of the fabric which can be effected by turning or twisting
them round, or partly round, so as to efface, or.,tone down, the sharp edges of the
impressed, or printed, design, and thereby to impart to the fabric the appearance of
a fabric woven from fibres of different colours, or from parti-coloured fibres.
This object may be attained either by energetic' and long continued washing in a
washing-machine, fitted with pressing or squeezing rollers; or, in order to enhance
the effect, the same process ray be performed in a fulling machine; or it may be
effected by teasling or kindred operation; or by a combination of two or more of
these operations; or, by other manipulation which will attain the object in view.
The new process according to this invention effects a result opposite to that which
hitherto has been attained in cloth printing works, where it has been the object
hitherto to obtain images, or designs, as sharply defined as possible.
A further important difference between the process according to this invention
and the various stuff-printing processes hitherto applied to animal fibre, is, that
these laiter processes were generally applicable to pieces of woollen muslin and
woolen flannel limited to a width of 80 centimetres, the materials being printed on
one side only. It is well known that every fabric presents more, or less, serious
defects in the weaving, and that these defects generally become apparent in
longitudinal stripes or streaks; they being caused as a rule by inequalities in the
yarn employed, or by weft-threads which are either thinner or thicker than the
standard. To avoid rendering these deficiencies still more marked, or conspicuous,
than they already are, care should be taken, in impressing, or printing, to avoid
designs which extend parallel to either the weft, or the warp.
By the improved process according to this invention a piece of fabric can have
imparted to it the appearance of a fabric woven in other and various ways. For
example, we may take an ordinary "twill" web, and print thereon a design consisting
of strokes, or lines, running parallel to the twist, and the material when treated
according to this Invention, will acquire the appearance of what is known as
"diagonal" cloth, if, however, the same printing be effected on the wrong side of
the same material, so that the lines of the web and those of the design intersect at
right angles, then the result will be a grained or "granito" effect. Or should the
same twill web have a chequered design printed on it, then the twill weaving will
become invisible and the texture be similar in appearance to that of canvas.
A material of good appearance has been obtained from fibres prepared by printing
transverse coloured stripes on the slubbing before they are spun. The fibres are
then, by repeated stretching, displaced in relation to each other, so that a mixture
is obtained which is spun into yarn which is known by the name of its inventor
"Vigoureux."
By means of the process herein above described all the "Vigoureux" effects may
be produced with particular advantage, for while, on the one hand, all the dis-
advantages of the method of manufacture hitherto adopted are obviated, the effects
arrived at are, on the other hand, even more beautiful and more clearly defined
than those produced by the Vigoureux process.
Dated this 10th day of Dasamban 1906
JOHNSONS & WILLCOX,
47 Lincoln's Inn Fields, London, W.C., Agents.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Mixed or Parti-coloured
Fabrics.
We, HENRY GIESLER of Molsheim, Alsace, in the Empire of Germany, Dyer, and 50
JOSEPH DABERT, of 1ter Rue du Congrès, Asnières, near Paris in the Republic of
France, Textile Printer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what

page_text: manner the same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained in
and by the following statement :-
This Invention is applicable to fabrics of any description, such as those made of
wool, cotton, silk, or mohair, or mixtures thereof, for example, and whether the
said fabrics have, or have not, been bleached, dyed, or subjected to other preparatory
processes, such as pile-cutting, or shearing, singeing, steaming, washing, fulling,
treating with chlorine, or the like, and whether the fabrics be woven from plain,
or from coloured threads.
According to this invention there is applied, either upon one side, or upon both
sides of the fabric either dye-stuffs, or mordants, or both dye-stuffs and mordants,
by means of an impressing, or printing operation, which may be applied by any
well known device, such, for instance, as pressure-rollers, or blocks, or the like.
In thus impressing, or printing the fabrics, one design, or a number of designs
may be employed, which, however, should be as little pronounced, or marked, as
possible; they preferably consisting of minute dots, streaks, or similar irregularly
disposed groundwork. The same design may be applied in the same, or different,
colours, to both sides of the fabric, or a different design may be used for each side,
if both sides are to be treated. Between the lines, or figures, of the design so
impressed, or printed, the original colour of the fabric should remain conspicuously
visible.
The desired graduations of shades are obtained either by diluting the colouring
matter, or by more, or less deeply engraving the design on the roller, or printing
plate.
Fast colours only should be used and they should be carefully "fixed," or
"ingrained," which can be done by steaming. This process must be carried out
very slowly and extended over a somewhat long period so that the colours may not
be damaged by the subsequent treatment to which the fabric is submitted. This is
very essential, as, up to the present time, where animal fibre has been printed upon,
the pieces under treatment have been found incapable of even resisting mere washing
for any length of time.
The next stage of the process consists in altering the relative positions of the
component fibres of the fabric which can be effected by turning or twisting them
round, or partly round, so as to efface, or tone down, the sharp edges of the impressed,
or printed design, and thereby to impart to the fabric the appearance of a fabric
woven from fibres of different colours, or from parti-coloured fibres.
This object may be attained either by energetic and long continued washing in a
washing-machine, fitted with pressing or squeezing rollers; or in order to
enhance the effect, the same process may be performed in a fulling machine; or
it may be effected by teasling or kindred operation; or by a combination of two or
more of these operations; or by other manipulation which will attain the object in
view.
The new process according to this invention effects a result opposite to that which
hitherto has been attained in cloth printing works, where it has been the object
hitherto to obtain images, or designs, as sharply defined as possible. A further
important difference between this process and the various stuff-printing processes
heretofore applied to animal fibre, is, that these latter processes were generally
applicable to pieces of woollen muslin and woollen flannel limited to a width of
80 centimetres, the materials being printed on one side only. It is well known that
every fabric presents more or less serious defects in the weaving, and that these
defects generally become apparent in longitudinal stripes or streaks; they being
caused as a rule by inequalities in the yarn employed, or by weft-threads which are
either thinner or thicker than the standard. To avoid rendering these deficiencies
still more marked, or conspicuous, than they already are, care should be taken, in
impressing, or printing, to avoid designs which extend parallel to either the weft, or
the warp.
By this improved process a piece of fabric can have imparted to it the appearance

page_text: of a fabric woven in other and various ways. For example we may take an ordinary
"twill" web, and print thereon a design consisting of strokes, or lines, running
parallel to the twist, and the material when treated according to this invention will
acquire the appearance of what is known as "diagonal" cloth; if, however, the
same printing be effected on the wrong side of the same material, so that the lines
of the web and those of the design intersect at right angles, then the result will be
a grained or "Granite" effect. Or should the same twill web have a chequered
design printed on it, then the twill weaving will become invisible and the texture
be similar in appearance to that of canvas.
A material of good appearance has been obtained from fibres prepared by printing
transverse coloured stripes on the slubbing before they are spun. The fibres are
then, by repeated stretching, displaced in relation to each other; so that a mixture
is obtained which is spun into yarn which is known by the name of its inventor
Vigoureux.
By means of the process hereinabove described all the "Vigoureux" effects may
be produced with particular advantage, for while, on the one hand, all the dis-
advantages of the method of manufacture hitherto adopted are obviated, the effects
arrived at are, on the other hand, even more beautiful and more clearly defined,
than those produced by the Vigoureux process.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what
we claim is :-
1. The manufacture of fabrics having the effects which have hitherto been
produced in textile fabrics by weaving with coloured, parti-coloured, or (Vigoureux),
'mixed," or fancy, threads; the main feature of the said manufacture consisting in
impressing, or printing, a design on the fabric; and then distorting the fibres
by displacing, turning, or twisting, them so that the sharp lines of the pattern are
destroyed and a fabric having the appearance of a mixed woven fabric or one
formed from fibres dyed with various colours before weaving is produced.
2. As a new article of manufacture a textile fabric produced in the manner
hereinbefore described and claimed.
Dated this 11th der of Tune 1907
JOHNSONS & WILLCOX,
47 Lincoln's Inn Fields, London, W.C., Agents.