Improvements in Embroidering Machinery.
Year: 1889

page_text: Date of Application, 16th Nov., 1889
Complete Specification Left, 18th Aug., 1890-Accepted, 15th Nov., 1890
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Embroidering Machinery.
I GUSTAVE (CORDIER, of 79 Rue Neuve, Calais, France, Manufacturer, do hereby
declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention has for objects:
1. The application to hand embroidering machines and to embroidering looms with
shuttles or continuous thread; of a new system of numerical Jacquard apparatus and
various correlative elements also new, by means of cards perforated according to a
novel arrangement of setting off on the cards and numbered scales.
2. The application to hand embroidering looms, of a new system of stationary,
holders for holding needles, which I call "universal tongs for holding needles
allowing of instantaneously embroidering upon any spacing or pitch.
According to the first part of my invention I effect the mechanical embroidery
entirely automatically, whatever may be the complexity of the design to be executed,
and the number of points contained therein, whilst retaining in machines equipped
according to my system the capability of being operated by hand at any moment.
This last advantage is especially important when it is required to make sample articles
to place upon the market, without incurring the expense of punching cards before
knowing how the articles are received. Moreover, as. the embroidery is produced
automatically, it will always be identical.
According to the second part of my invention I am enabled in a very short time
(which I estimate at five minutes at the maximum) to alter the spacing or pitch of the
needles in hand embroidering machines, without displacing the tongs for holding the
needles.
A further advantage easily attained with this new holder, consists in embroidering
at a predetermined place, any desired effect, upon fabrics already provided with a
design (such as laces, striped fabrics &c.).
For instance I can manufacture a piece of lace having empty spaces left in it, then
stretch this piece upon the embroidering machine, and by means of my new holder,
simultaneously apply to the places left empty any desired embroidery effect. The
arrangement of the machine forming the subject of my invention may be divided into
seven principal parts hereinafter described in succession, viz.,
1. The Jacquard apparatus proper.
2. Apparatus for automatically regulating the travel of the carriages by the aid of
the Jacquard apparatus and the cards.
3. Apparatus for automatically producing the movement of the pedals.
4. Apparatus connecting the frame of the machine with the boxes of the
Jacquard.
5. The universal holder for holding the needles.
6. Apparatus for setting off the cards and the numbered scales.
7. Electrical apparatus for notifying the attendant when the cards fall out of the
tracks or guides.
Referring to the annexed drawings,
Fig. 1 Sheet 1 shews a sectional elevation of the framing of the Jacquard
apparatus.
Fig. 2 a side elevation of the pump and of the cylinder.
Fig. 3 a front elevation of the pump and of the parts of the cylinder.
Fig. 4 Sheet 2 a side elevation of the pressure apparatus and of the system of
"droupers."

page_text: anner as to allow of the regulation of the traver
The whole arrangement of these parts imparts to the pump H (during a complete
evolution of the shaft 1 in the direction of the arrow Fig. 2) a to-and-fro motion
rom left to right and from right to left. The pump takes with it a part of the
nechanism of the cylinder K.
§ 5. The parts of the cylinder are (Figs. 2 & 3).
1. A cam L keyed upon the driving shaft 1.
2. An arm M keyed upon the shaft 3 which oscillates in its bearing.
3. A roller m rotating about the pin 11 fixed to the arm M, the roller m bearing
pon the cam L.
4. Two arms N and N¹ keyed in a pair upon the shaft 3 and carrying the
pins 12.
5. Two links O & O' oscillating about the pins 12.
6. A shaft 13 rotating in the sockets 13' & 131 of the arms 0 & O' and rotating
loosely in the squares P and P¹ which serve as its support in the slides Q and Q' that
form part of the arms I and I'.
7. Two arms I and I' which connect to a certain extent the cylinder K keyed upon
the shaft 13, to the pump H.
Each arm is provided with a shaft and carries a regulating slot. The pump operates
the cylinder from right to left (because the arms I & I cause it to follow the to-
and-fro motion of this pump), and as it also receives an up and down motion from the
links 0', the result is that the axis or pin 13 of the cylinder will move in a curved
path resulting from these movements.
$6. To this motion is added the racking movement of the cylinder, which has for
object to cause a new card forming part of the endless arrangement R to pass succes-
sively over the upper part of the cylinder. An arm S in which is cut a semi-circular
notch is capable of oscillating about the pin s fixed to one of the arms I or I'. The
cylinder has four small pins u fixed upon one of its vertical sides, and will engage in
its descent one of these pins (the lower one on the left) with the notched arm S. The
latter not being able to descend, and the cylinder continuing its descending movement,
it results that the said cylinder will perform a partial rotation about its own axis.
This partial rotation will be exactly equal to a quarter of a revolution, which will
cause the following card to pass on to the cylinder. The arm S in addition to its hook
has also its surface to the right perfectly smooth so that when the quarter of a
revolution of the cylinder has been accomplished, the two left-hand pins u will slide
along upon this smooth surface and by the action of the coiled spring V, the cylinder
will have its upper face horizontal.
Two springs W (one only being shown) as also the rollers X X' and the small
disengaging hook z, serve to guide the movement of the cards and ensure their
engaging properly with the cylinder. The cylinder is perforated on each of its faces
with eight rows of fourteen holes, corresponding to the holes in the cards, and is
provided with eight conical pins corresponding to the holes for pins pierced in the
cards.
$ 7. The system of droppers A' serves to actuate the boxes B¹ (Fig. 4) in their
slides d², d and e², (Fig. 1). The droppers can move up and down being each
maintained in two holes, nainely a square one in the plate p and a round one in the
plate p (Figs. 2 & 5).
Each series of droppers is enclosed at the top in a box formed of two plates of sheet
metal riveted together at a distance apart a little greater than the thickness of the
droppers. These boxes carry a small projection (Fig. 4). The droppers which
ascend when the corresponding hole of the cylinder is stopped by an unperforated
portion of the card are caught between the pump and this projection b.
Each dropper has thus a corresponding hole in the cylinder. If the card is
5 perforated to correspond to the position of any one dropper, this dropper will not
ascend during the ascending movement of the cylinder and its effect will be nil. It

page_text: on the contrary the hole is not provided in the card, the dropper or droppers wil
ascend to the height of the top of the projection and the pump moving towards the
left will press them against the projection, and thus push them, together with the box,
until the pump is at the extreme left position due to the action of that part of the
cam A that is farthest from the centre of the shaft 1 upon which the cam A is fixed
(Fig. 2).
Each dropper (Fig. 5) comprises a small cylindrical rod a¹ inserted in a piece of
square iron at the lower end of the latter. This piece of square iron is provided
with a saw cut at its upper end, in which is soldered and riveted a thin steel bar c'
forming a spring and supporting at the top the dropper proper d' which is a piece of
steel a little thinner than the interior of the box. The varying lengths of these pieces
of steel constitute the numerical values of the droppers. The unit of the numerical
value is variable according to requirements. Upon the drawings this unit corresponds
to of a millimetre (0.00025 metres).

page_text: right hand end of the box, a metal bar drawn to the right by a coiled spring or a
weight, it will be possible to cause this bar to advance or to retire by any quantity
that is a multiple of the unit of the droppers by the working of the droppers.
But, when the pump performs its movement from left to right (the weight or
spring drawing towards the right the bar, and the box at the same time), the latter
will follow the pump in its movement. This must be prevented to ensure the proper
working of the apparatus. With this object there is employed an arrangement of
parts denominated the " pressure apparatus."
$10. Pressure apparatus. The pressure apparatus has for its object to allow the
box to move from right to left, or from left to right, but only during a comparatively
short period which I call the period of work. This period corresponds to about of
a revolution of the shaft.
20
Outside the limits of this period of work, the pressure apparatus presses the boxes
in such a manner as to render them quite stationary.
The parts of this pressure apparatus are:-
1. A crank C keyed upon the shaft 1, and carrying the pin c³.
2. A connecting rod D₁ provided with a long slot d³ in which can slide the pin
of the lever (The connecting rod D' oscillates about the pin e The slot d
of this arm D' is designed in such a manner that the pin c will touch its lower
end during a small portion of the revolution of the crank C.
3. An arm E keyed upon the shaft 5 and carrying the pin e.
4. Two arms F, (only one being shown on the drawings) keyed upon the shaft 5
and each carrying a pin f.
5. Two arms G¹ G' oscillating respectively about the pins f³. These arms are
provided at their right hand ends with two cast iron blocks H' H' of triangular
form (Fig. 6).
6. Four sockets fixed on the cross piece T which connects the two pressure
supports a, a' (Fig. 6).
7. Two cylindrical rods ii sliding in the sockets h. Each of these rods carries
at one of its ends a cast iron block J J similar to the blocks H', H'.
8. Two springs attached on one end to the supports a² a³ and at the other end
to a hook screwed into the rods ii act in such a manner as to give a constant
tendency to the blocks J J to touch the blocks H'H'.
The boxes B (Fig. 4) are placed upon bars 63 termed "boltzs." These boltzs
rest in the slides (Fig. 1) and upon the cross piece T (Fig. 6) which is polished.
These said boltzs each carry a hook, to which is connected a drawspring u¹ (Fig. 4)
that is already attached to the box B'. This spring has for its object to cause the
left end of the boltzs to bear upon the right hand end of the box. This point of
support is at (Fig. 4). Each boltz resting on the cross piece T is separated
from the adjacent one by a small block of copper of a size such that the distance
between the centres of the boltz shall be the same as the distance between the
centres of the boxes and the jaws of the droppers.
It is evident if I do not apply any pressure by means of the rods ii upon the
whole arrangement of the boltzs and their distance pieces of copper c (Fig. 6)
these boltzs as well as the boxes to which they are respectively connected, will be
able to move by sliding in the slides d³, d, e, e (Fig. 1) and upon the cross piece T
(Fig. 6); this is what takes place during the period of work.
$ 11. Operation. Referring to Fig. 4 as a whole, it happens that during a part
of the revolution of the shaft (being that part of revolution which extends from
to in the direction of the arrow (Fig. 4) which carries the crank e¹ and its pin c³,
the whole of the pressure apparatus will remain immovable, because the spring Si
causes the rods G', G' and consequently the blocks H', H' to advance until tho
ods ii bearing upon the last boltzs at the right hand and left hand ends press thein
gainst each other and render them immovable.
When the pin of the arm C₁ arrives at r', it will touch the bottom of the
lot d of the arm D', and will cause the latter to descend. The boltzs will then be
ree and the hoxes will be able to move. When the pin c arrives at r³ (the arm D'

page_text: not being able to reascend since the boltzs will be pressed anew), this pin will slide
in the slot d. The part of revolution 2 in the direction of the arrow corresponds
to the period of work. Therefore in order to establish the relation between the work
of the pump and that of the pressure apparatus, I divide the time of work into three
parts:
1. The pump in pressing the droppers against the projections of the boxes, causes
the boxes to move forwards towards the left if the number represented by the
droppers is higher than the preceding one. The box thus slides on its boltz and the
drawing spring u' is put in tension.
2. The cylinder still supporting the droppers that have ascended, the pin c³
arrives at and performs the portion of revolution comprised between r¹ and³.
During this period, the boltzs are released. Those that correspond to the boxes which
have to perform a movement towards the left are caused to bear at x by the action of
the spring . Those that correspond to the boxes whose droppers represent a number
lower than the preceding, slide towards the right with the box (since the boxes are
being continually drawn towards the right) until the droppers are pressed between
the pump and the projection of the box
3. All the boxes having performed their work and all the droppers being pressed
between the pump and the projections, the pin at this moment allows the spring S¹
to exert its pressure upon the boltzs and all the boxes become immovable. I
may remark that the spring S' must be strong enough to prevent any slipping
of the boxes during the movement from left to right and from right to left of the
pump.
I will now describe the relation existing between the boxes of the Jacquard
apparatus and the various elements of the embroidering machine, as also of their
relation to the novel apparatus hereinafter described. I will first deal with the
arrangement for regulating automatically the travel of the carriages with the aid of
the Jacquard apparatus and the cards. (Figs. 7 and 10.)
$12. This system has for object to cause the front carriage and the rear carriage of
the hand embroidering machine to advance and to retire alternately. It is evident
that the embroidery thread, making stitches in the fabric stretched upon the frame
will diminish in length in proportion as it is used. It is therefore necessary that the
carriages should retire less and less far from each point. Now the length of the
thread employed for each stitch, varies and the tension requisite for the thread also
varies according to the effects it is desired to produce and according to the material
employed as the embroidery thread.
All these conditions are fulfilled by the arrangement hereinafter described, applied
to one of the boxes of the Jacquard apparatus.
$ 13. If the apparatus was worked by the rotation of the shaft 1 (Fig. 10) without
the intervention of the Jacquard and of the cards, the carriages would simply execute
their to and fro movement. The intervention of the elements of the Jacquard only
serves to modify this travel by the manner in which each card is perforated,
whilst it at the same time causes the operation of one or the other of the
carriages.
§14. The several elements of the arrangement are:-
A crank C (which is the same as that of the pressure apparatus) keyed upon
the shaft 1, provided with a pin c.
2. A connecting rod A' connecting the pin c of the arm to the pin 15 of the
arm B'.
3. An arm B keyed upon the shaft 14 which is supported in bearings on two
frames I'I'.
4. An arm D' keyed upon the shaft 14. This arm D' supports a small arrangement
of screw carriage capable of sliding along the said arm D' by the rotation of the
ratchet wheel Q.
5. A ratchet wheel Q keyed upon the prolongation of the screw threaded rod of
the screw carriage.
6. A plate or table P* rotating loosely on the prolongation of the said screw-threaded

page_text: rod. This plate is provided with tongues Q² (variable in number). These tongues
are maintained by the action of a small spring upon the surface of the ratchet wheel
in such a manner as to act immediately when the plate P rotates. These tongues do
not occupy the same position in the teeth of the ratchet wheel, so as to increase the
exactitude of the part revolution it is desired that this ratchet wheel shall perform.
The plate P2 carries in addition a small flat-grooved pulley R³, and a grooved
pulley S a little larger. These two pulleys and the plate all form one and the same
piece.
Upon the periphery of the small pulley R' is attached a thin metal band X which
is attached at its other end to one of the boxes of the Jacquard. This band X serves
to drive the screw carriage of the arm D2. This band carries at a metal piece or
projection of suitable thickness which can be situated at any convenient place upon
band X for the purposes of regulation. This piece cannot pass into the slot formed in
the guide or support T. The pulley S' is provided with a coiled spring fixed at one
end upon its periphery and at the other end upon the support T' its object being to
cause a rotary motion of the pulley S, so that in the normal condition the piece r
will strike against the outside of the support T.
7. An arm E2 oscillating about the pin 16 of the screw carriage and bearing on a
grooved pulley F2 into which it enters for a few millimetres.
Upon this arm is mounted a metal band, not to be seen in Fig. 10, but which is
hooked at the point 20 on to a spring the other end of which is fixed to the arm E.
This band bears normally against the lower surface of the arm E'; it then makes an
entire turn in the direction of the arrow round the pulley F; it then follows the
lower part of the arm E² and is attached to another spring at the point 21. This
spring is also fixed on the arm E. The band is also fixed at a point of the periphery
of the bottom of the flat groove of the pulley F. This band has for object to impart
to the pulley F a rotary movement the commencement of which in the one or the
other direction shall be gentle and without shock. The tension of these springs is
however sufficiently great to cause the carriages carrying the tongs to continue their
acquired movement.
8. The pulley F herein before referred to, is keyed on the shaft 17 (Figs. 7 and 10).
9. A shaft 17 on which are keyed two mitre wheels (45°). This shaft is capable
not only of rotation in its bearings but also of advancing and retiring to a certain
extent.
10. Two mitre wheels H, and H, keyed on the shaft 17.
11. Two mitre wheels G, and G₁ keyed respectively on the shafts 18 and 18' at
an angle of 90° with relation to the shaft 17. The position of these two shafts 18
and 18 is such that the two gear wheels H, and H₁ of the shaft 17 are capable of
gearing each in turn but not simultaneously with the gear wheels G, and G₁ of the
shafts 18 and 18'.
12. Two collars and a forked armi a are provided at the middle of the shaft 17.
These permit of the shaft being moved towards the left or towards the right by the
oscillating movement of the forked aru a about its pivot 19 fixed on the board of
the pantograph appertaining to the machine.
13. Two large pulleys L (one only of which is shown) with double flat grooves
keyed respectively on the shafts 18 and 18. Upon the peripheries of these pulleys
are fixed metal bands which pass over the return pulleys of the belts of the
embroidering looms, and are attached to the point X' (Fig. 7).
$15. In considering the operation of the machine let us not take any account of
the intervention of the boxes of the Jacquard, and let us suppose for that purpose that the
band X (Fig. 10) connecting the box of the Jacquard to the apparatus is broken. The
following will then take place during the revolution of the shaft 1; the armis B'
and D2 will oscillate about the shaft 14, and will make the arm E' participate in the
movement.
The thin band applied to the lower surface of the arm E' and fixed to a
point of
the periphery of the pulley F', will impart to the shaft 17 and to the gear wheels H₁

page_text: and H₁ which are keyed thereon, a rotary movement in a forward direction, and then
in a backward direction.
The shaft 17 is capable of sliding in its bearings, so that if the arm a is operated to
cause the gear wheel H, to engage with the gear wheel G, the shaft 18 will rotate as
well as the pulley L. Since the bands M, and N, are fixed on the surface of this
pulley L in a given adjustable point, one of these bands will be wound on, and the
other will be wound off the pulley L, and as these bands are fixed at the point X' of
the front carriage, they will draw this carriage towards the front of the loom, and
will then bring it back to the middle, that is to say to the point where the change of
needles is to be effected.
Similarly, if the pinions G₁' and H,' are caused to engage, the shaft 181 and the
pulley L, and the bands M₁ and N₁ will operate, and it will be the rear carriage
that would move.
Now it is necessary that the two carriages shall be stopped for an instant when
they are nearest each other, in order that the motion of the pedal shaft and the
operation of the tongs carrying the needles shall have time to take place.
This stoppage (according to the position of the parts and their adjustable travel)
does really take place, because when the carriages are nearest to each other, the arm ("
has still something to cause to be accomplished by the arms B, D and E³.
Now, as the carriages are stopped by stop screws and the arm E' continues its
movement it has begun in order to bring back the carriage which has just worked at
its extreme point of approach, and the pulley F being rendered immovable by the
stopping of the carriage, the consequence is that the spring 21 will be placed in
tension, whilst the spring 20 will relax. The necessary stoppage of the carriages thus
takes place during the working of these two coiled springs. The same stoppage also
takes place for the other carriage
§ 16. In the whole preceding $15, no account has been taken of the intervention
of the boxes of the Jacquard apparatus which has for object to shorten more and
more, according to requirements, the travel of the carriages towards the outer part
of the machine.
This shortening is effected as follows :-
When the arms B and D are situated at the right hand side of the point of
oscillation the band X which is connected to a box of the Jacquard, has a length
such that it will just be tightened if the droppers of that box are caused to make
zero.
If these droppers are caused to make 1 2. 3. 15. 18. or any other number, the
band X will, during its instant of relaxation move to the left, and since the extreme
point of oscillation of the system of the arms B and D³ is always the same, the
band having become shorter, will impart to the pulleys R' and S' to the plate P
and to the ratchet wheel Q through the medium of the tongues Q, a rotary
movement which will cause the arrangement of screw carriage supporting the
pin 16, to descend. The distance of the shaft 14 from the pin 16 will thus be
shortened by a variable given quantity according to the quantity effected by the
droppers of the box that is driving. This quantity will be determined according
to the system of setting off on the cards and various other considerations hereinafter
referred to.
It may be stated that the position of the parts is such that this shortening takes
place during the period of stoppage of the carriages carrying the tongs, and does not
have any effect whatever on them at that moment. The effect of the same is
felt only when the carriages advance towards the outer part of the machine to
stretch the threads..
The maximum shortening that can be made after each point is sufficient to allow of
making the most extended stitches generally made in embroidery.
III. I will now refer to the arrangement for automatically effecting the movement
of the pedals in hand embroidering machines (Figs. 89 and 9×).
§ 17. The object of this arrangement is to effect the oscillation of the shaft which

page_text: is actuated by the pedals in hand embroidering machines. I shall therefore not
describe that which is effected in the machine by this oscillation, since everything
under that head remains as it is originally in any kind of loom.
§ 18. The parts of this arrangement are:-
1. A cam B³ keyed on the driving shaft 1.
2. An arm A³ carrying a roller a, which is caused to roll round the surface of the
cam B by a spring G, which must be in sufficient tension to cause the shaft L, to
move in its oscillating movement. This arm A³ oscillates about the pin a'. It
carries on its sides at its upper part two pins o' o', and two pieces F and F forming
with the upper part of the arm A³, two slides.
3. Two hooks C and D each capable of sliding in one of the spaces between A
and F. They are drawn towards the left by two small coiled springs H, and I,, and
they are further maintained by the bands y' and each corresponding to a box of
the Jacquard. It is clear that if y' he released and be drawn the hook D' will fall,
and the hook C³ will rise. The one that has fallen will be drawn towards the left by
the pin o' or o, when the arın A* oscillates from right to left. These hooks are each
connected by means of an adjusting screw and a thin metallic band passing respectively
over the return flat grooved pulleys J and J, and are fastened at one point of the
circumference of the pulley K. This pulley K, is fixed on the shaft L..
$ 19. The operation is as follows:-
At the moment when the carriages have just stopped at the place where they are
nearest to each other, and before either of them begins to move again, the shaft L of
the pedals inust oscillate in a rearward direction if the front carriage is to work, and
in a forward direction if the rear carriage is to be operated.
At this moment the period of work of the Jacquard apparatus has been completed,
the hooks C and D are situated, one at the top, the other at the bottom, or nice versa,
according to the work of the droppers operated by the cards.
Precisely at this moment the falling portion of the cam B is brought in front of
the roller a, of the arm A³ which being pulled by the spring G₁ moves towards the
left and causes the oscillation of the pulley K, and of the shaft L, upon which it is
keyed.
During the period of travel of the carriages, the arm A' takes up again its original
position, leaving the hooks C³ an D³ quite free. The period of work of the boxes of
the Jacquard commencing afresh gives to the hooks the reverse position (or leaves
them in the same position if need be); in the case of the reverse position the shaft L,
oscillates in a reverse sense whilst the carriages are stopped again.
§ 20. An arm O, mounted on the shaft L, has a two-fold object:
1. That of maintaining the shaft L, in the position in which it has been left by the
pull of one of the hooks C' or D³.
To this end it carries a pin M, upon which is fastened a pull-back spring R, fixed
to the ground exactly under the centre point of the shaft L, so that it will be vertical
when the arm 0, is vertical. When this arm O, by the oscillation of the shaft L₁,
moves to the right or to the left, the spring R, retains this arm 0, in its position.
The spring R, is not so strong as the spring G₁.
2. The second object of the arm O, is to cause the shaft 17 to slide (Figs. 7 and 10)
o as to cause it to operate one or the other of the carriages.
To this end the arm 0, (Fig. 8) carries a fork at its end and the arm a (Figs. 7
nd 10) enters into this fork. By the oscillation of the shaft L, (Fig. 8) it is possible
o cause either the front or the rear carriage to move.
IV. I will now refer to the arrangement for connecting the frame of the machine
o the boxes of the Jacquard apparatus (Fig. 13).
•
§ 21. This arrangement has for object to cause the frame of two sets of embroidering
nachines to move automatically, as required by the design.
The pantograph is dispensed with but it may be retained, and the boxes of the
acquard caused to act directly upon it.
This latter arrangement appears to me to be less advantageous, so that I prefer to
B

page_text: with the frame, leaving the same suspended by the counterweights used to
balance it.
The arrangement comprises:
1. A support F having its right face perfectly machined, and being bolted upon
the upper part of the frame I,.
The frame is drawn towards the ground and towards the right hand by one or more
springs or by two weights situated in the place most convenient according to the kind
of machine.
2. An arm G, oscillating about a small shaft and carrying at its lower part a
grooved wheel H' capable of rotation about its axis h³. This wheel rotates, bearing
upon the machined surface of the arm support F*.
3. Two return pulleys and K, which guide the thin metallic bands A* and B*
that connect the frame to the boxes.
4. Two other return pulleys Q₁ (one only of which is seen in the drawings) are
provided on the Jacquard for the same purpose
§ 22. The operation is as follows: If the action of the droppers is caused to pull or
to release the box to which is fastened the thin metal band B that is fastened at its
other end to the point R, of the arm E₁ of the machine, the frame will rise or will
descend (it will descend by the action of the spring or counterweight).
If the action of the droppers is caused to pull or to release the box to which is
fastened the band A' which is fastened at its other end to the point h₁ of the arm G₂,
the frame will move to the right or to the left (to the left by the action of the spring
or counterweight that pulls it). By the action of the droppers, the frame may be
caused to occupy any position at each revolution of the Jacquard; these revolutions
correspond to each point. Thus any design whatever can be executed even if 25 centi-
metres in height and breadth (this being the maximum capacity of the Jacquard
constructed according to the conditions of the drawings).
By increasing the framing of the Jacquard apparatus a design of more than
25 centimetres in height and breadth could be executed, but this is so seldom required
that it has little practical advantage.
V. I will now refer to the universal needle carriers (Figs. 11 and 12).
23. These have for object:
:-
1. To enable embroidery to be effected with any pitch or spacing without changing
the position of these carriers, and to enable this change of spacing to be effected very
rapidly.
The spacing of the needles that have just embroidered a design of any width, can be
altered to any other spacing (provided it is a múltiple of a certain unit which is the
gauge of needle carriers) in less than five minutes. The unit or gauge of the needle
carriers is 1 millimetre, 1% or 2, acccording to what is required. I regard as
the best standard, that of two millimetres.
2. To enable, when a fabric already containing designs, is stretched on the frame,
embroidery effects of any kind to be applied at predetermined places with a precision
relatively exact.
§ 24. The new needle carrier for carrying needles comprises: :-
1. A table A having a dovetail a' and a set screw B such that this table can be
firmly fixed upon a bar called "liguade" provided on the carriages. This bar is perfectly
levelled in all directions, so that the table A' will be mounted thereon level and
straight.
2. A hammer having two bosses c' and e' in which is pierced a hole o².
This bammer which is formed of a metal bar of rectangular section ends in a part E
the section of which is shown in Fig. 11. This piece E' has a length equal to the
width of the table.
3. A piece of brass ³ dovetailed in a slot of the same form planed in the table A*.
This piece of brass prevents the needles from penetrating too far upon the table in case
the liguade should give way.

page_text: 4. Two raised parts D and D³ formed with a hole serve as bearing
mall pin which renders the hammer movable about its axis o². The hammer C³
as a tendency to bear down at E on the table A by the action of a spring R* fixed
on the table and in two holes and formed in the parts D³, Dª which form one
vith the table A'.
In the surface of this table A' are planed a number of small longitudinal bearing
places of semicircular form of a diameter of about "/m. These bearing places serve
or the reception of the needles and to force them to take up the proper position in all
espects.
The lower surface of the piece E' bears upon the top of the needles placed in the
bearing parts, which are all of exact depth, and presses upon all these needles firmly.
There can thus be placed in each needle holder 1, 2, 3, up to 10 needles. I have
adopted 20 millimetres as the preferable width of the tables A, and two millimetres as
the distance between the bearing parts of the needles. Tables of a greater or less
width, and greater or smaller intervals between the bearing parts may however be
employed in special cases.
In front of the table is situated a small edge higher than the top of the table.
This edge which is cut by the bearing parts, serves to prevent the threads of the
embroidery already executed from being pinched by the hammers.
Further entry is given to the needles by countersinking the opening such as is
indicated in Fig. 12.
§ 25. The result obtained by these holders is as follows:-
The four "liguades" of the hand embroidery machine are provided with a con-
siderable number of these holders. All the bolders touch one another so as not to
cause irregularity in the division of the bearing parts. It will thus be readily
understood that any number of needles may be employed and any spacing may be
obtained which must however be a multiple of the distance between the bearing
parts.
The changing of the place of the needles is effected very easily and quickly since
it is only needful to apply pressure to the hammer and to throw the needles into the
bearing parts in which they are to work.
Each bearing part of the holders of one of the carriages has exactly in its
prolongation a similar bearing part in the holder of the other carriage, so that the
needles will be able to work in any bearing part.
When embroidery is to be added to a fabric which has already a design upon it,
this fabric is stretched, and a suitable point of register or reference being chosen, the
needles are placed opposite this point at each junction.
If the junction of the design of the fabric does not correspond with an exact
multiple the spacing of the bearing parts, the result will be that only a portion of
the needles will be able to be placed exactly on the point of register. The other
needles will be more or less distant therefrom, but this distance will be at its
maximum only one half of the spacing of the bearing parts.
The nearer the bearing parts are to each other, the greater will be the precision.
It is for this reason that it was stated hereinbefore that the embroidery effects are
applied with a precision relatively exact.
VI. I will now refer to the arrangement of setting off on the cards, and of
numbered scales.
§ 26. Let us assume for the explanation of this arrangement, a series of droppers
the unit of which is
".
As herein before stated machines provided with the whole of my arrangements
retain the capability of being worked by hand when desired. In such case the
pantograph is employed.
$27. The setting off (on the cards) of one of the designs is effected in such a
manner that it can serve to guide the pantograph, that is to say, it will be six times
higher and wider than the design to be produced. In the setting off in the cards
each line of the ruling is numbered in two directions beginning on the right with the

page_text: The unit of the droppers being of a millimetre the design is to be drawn upon
paper divided into squares by divisions spaced apart 1 millimetres in the two
directions, that is to say 6 times one quarter of a millimetre.
In drawing the designs must he made larger in that direction in which they have a
tendency to become flatter by the tension of the threads.
When the drawing is finished, the passes are drawn, being indicated by lines which
begin and which end either at the intersection of the lines of the squares, or at the
centre of the said squares, or at the middle of one of the sides forming each square
of the ruling.
§. 28. There are now yet to be made the numbered scales or the transformation in
figures of the work of the threads of the set-off on the cards.
Each band, operating an arm or lever, has its own proper work. These scales are
made upon paper divided into squares of suitable size. Each square starting from
the top and towards the bottom, corresponds to a card. Therefore all the numbers on
the same horizontal line correspond to the same card.
1. I follow the work of the thread and I mark for each point a number for the
band A (which number I read from the horizontal numbers) and a number for the
band B (which I read from the vertical numbers).
The band A' is that one which effects the horizontal motion of the frame, and the
band B' effects the vertical motion of the same (Fig. 13). If the point falls in the
centre of a square, the two numbers will be followed by . If the point falls upon
the middle of the sides of the squares formed by the ruling, one of the numbers will
be without, and the other will have .
I show this upon the scale by a simple red point placed after the number. By
operating thus for each point I have the numbered work of my embroidering
thread.
2. As the band X causes the operation of shortening the travel of the carriages,
its numbered work is obtained in the following manner. The length in millimetres
of the points is measured, and the numbers in millimetres are written down, one
below the other upon my scale. There is thus obtained the numbered work of the
band X. I operate thus, seeing that the diameter of the pulley R¹, and the thread
of the screw-threaded stem of the screw carriage sliding on the arm D³ are so
calculated, that in shortening the band X by one unit of the droppers (the unit
being ") the travel of the carriages carrying the holders will be shortened by
1 millimetre exactly.
3. The hands and ¹ (Fig. 8) each have their box and their droppers; I thus
complete my scale by marking their numbered work which will be composed only of
two numbers, continually alternating, and which will always be, for one band, the
inverse of that which it is for the other. When one of the numbers is zero,
the other will be sufficiently high to enable the hooks (C and D³ to work well.
4. A stopping bar is provided to operate the disengaging gear of the loom for
stopping the latter when required; for instance, when the thread has become too
short to work well, or when the threads are to be replaced by others of a different
colour, or also when the cards do not work.