New or Improved Machinery for Cutting the Connecting Threads between Figures of the Pattern upon Imitation Lace.
Year: 1892

page_text: Date of Application; 6th Sept., 1892
Complete Specification Left, 6th June, 1893-Accepted, 22nd July, 1893
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
New or Improved Machinery for Cutting the Connecting Threads
between Figures of the Pattern upon Imitation Lace.
I, REGINALD HADDAN, of the Firm of Herbert and Co. Patent Agents of
18 Buckingham Street Strand W.C. London do hereby declare the nature of this
invention a communication to me from abroad by Arthur Carpentier and Arsène
Carpentier both of Caudry in the Republic of France Manufacturers to be as
follows:-
This invention relates to that class of artificial or imitation lace in which a
pattern is formed upon a basis of gauze tulle or netting. Such patterns usually
comprise, even if they do not entirely consist of, a number of isolated figures and in
the manufacture of the pattern the thread is carried from one figure to another so
as to leave a number of connecting threads passing over the intervening spaces.
These connecting threads have to be removed necessitating two operations. Firstly
the cutting of the said threads, secondly the shaving off or removal of the loose
ends, the latter operation being usually effected by machines with rotary cylinders
provided with helicoidal blades such are used for shearing cloth.
The present invention consists in means for cutting the said connecting threads
as hereinafter described.
This operation requires the correlative operation of two distinct devices, namely
a device whereby the connecting threads may be separated from the tulle or the
like forming the foundation of the lace and a device whereby the cutting of these
threads may be effected when by the separating device they have been brought into
position for action of the cutters.
A travelling frame or box is provided and suitable mechanism applied to give to
this frame or box a back and forth movement. Part of this frame moves under
the lace and is provided with a closed pipe or chamber with perforations or with
any other equivalent row of jet orifices whereby compressed air may be caused to
issue under the lace in such a manner as to lift by the force of the outflowing air
all such threads as those connecting threads beforementioned which lie somewhat
loosely across the blank spaces of the foundation. The tulle or foundation is
retained by a suitable cross blade lying thereover so that only the escaping
connecting threads are blown upward away from the foundation.
Closely following on this air blast system, but above the lace, the aforesaid
frame carries a blade formed as a comb and preferably with a number of curved
blades placed vertically on the prongs of the comb and having their edges extending
rearward of the comb at a suitable curve to act in conjunction with an equal number
of rotary cutting disks with sharp edges which are mounted on a shaft revolving with
speed above the comb.
The teeth of the comb enter the spaces beneath the raised threads so that the
latter are severed between the blades on the comb and the rotary disks without
injury to the lace.
The frames move preferably at right angles to the line of the length of the lace
and there may be any suitable number of the frames according to the width of the
lace each frame moving back and forth over a portion of the width. The frames
may be moved quickly in the direction of their active cutting stroke by springs
and drawn back comparatively slowly during their return stroke by a tappet acting
on a lever connected to the gang of frames by chains or cords. The lace may be
moved longitudinally through the machine in a direction perpendicular to that of
the movement of the frames.

page_text: It is convenient to revolve the shaft of the cutting disks by means of a small
turbine or similar motor driven by compressed air.
Dated this 6th day of September 1892.
HERBERT & Co.,
Agents to Applicant.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
New or Improved Machinery for Cutting the Connecting Threads
between Figures of the Pattern upon Imitation Lace.
I REGINALD HADDAN of the Firm of Herbert & Co., Patent Agents of
18 Buckingham Street, Strand W.C. London, do hereby declare the nature of this
invention, a communication to me from abroad by Arthur Carpentier and Arsène
Carpentier both of Caudry in the Republic of France, Manufacturers and in what
manner the same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement:-
This invention relates to that class of artificial or imitation lace in which a
pattern is formed upon a basis of gauze, tulle or netting. Such patterns usually
comprise, even if they do not entirely consist of, a number of isolated figures and in
the inanufacture of the pattern the thread is carried from one figure to another so
as to leave a number of connecting threads passing over the intervening spaces.
These connecting threads have to be removed, necessitating two operations, firstly
the cutting of the said threads, secondly the shaving off or removal of the loose
ends, the latter operation being usually effected by machines with rotary cy linders
provided with helicoidal blades such as are used for shearing cloth.
The present invention consists in means for cutting the said connecting threads
as hereinafter described.
This operation requires the correlative operation of two distinct devices, namely
a device whereby the connecting threads may be separated from the tulle or the
like forming the foundation of the lace and a device whereby the cutting of these
threads' may be effected when by the separating device they have been brought into
position for action of the cutters.
In the annexed drawings Fig. 1 is a longitudinal elevation of the improved
machine.
Fig. 2 a plan view of the cutter frame.
Fig. 3 is a longitudinal elevation showing a modified construction of this
machine.
Fig. 4 is a vertical section of the cutter frame of the modified machine.
Fig. 5 is a cross section of this cutter frame.
This
In the machine shown in Fig. 1 a travelling frame or box is provided and suitable
mechanism applied to give to this frame or box a back and forth movement.
frame moves on the frame H of the machine under the lace P and is provided with
a closed pipe or chamber F with perforations G or with any other equivalent row
of jet orifices whereby compressed air supplied by pipe F¹ from main F may be
caused to issue under the lace P in such a manner as to lift by the force of the
outflowing air, all such threads as those connecting threads beforementioned which
lie somewhat loosely across the blank spaces of the foundation.
The tulle.or
foundation is retained by a suitable cross blade A¹ on the cutter frame, the said
blade lying over the lace so that the body of the lace is held down and only the
escaping connecting threads are blown upward away from the foundation.
Closely following on this air blast system, but above the lace, a frame is adapted
to roll or slide upon the lace in exact correspondence with the under frame afore-
said which provides the air blast. This upper frame carries a blade A formed as
a comb and preferably with a number of curved blades B placed vertically on the
prongs of the comb and having their edges extending rearward of the comb at a
suitable curve to act in conjunction with an equal number of rotary cutting disks D

page_text: with sharp edges which are mounted on a shaft D' revolving with speed above the
comb. As these frames pass respectively above and below the lace, the air jets
lift the loose threads just in front of the teeth of the comb A which then enter the
spaces beneath the raised threads so that the latter are severed between the
blades B on the comb and the rotary disks D without injury to the lace.
The frames move preferably at right angles to the line of the length of the
lace P which is moved by hand or mechanically and there may be any suitable
number of the frames according to the width of the lace, each frame moving back
and forth over a portion of the width. Each preferably has a course of about
9 or 10 inches so that for a lace four yards in width there will be fifteen such upper
and lower frames.
The frames, connected by bars N N¹ may be moved quickly in the direction of
their active cutting stroke by springs S connected to the frames by chains K" K™
passing over pulleys M" M and are drawn back comparatively slowly during
their return stroke by a tappet L acting on a lever M pivoted at M¹ and connected
to the gang of frames by chains or cords K K. The lace may be moved longi-
tudinally through the machine in a direction perpendicular to that of the movement
of the franes, whose motion is indicated by the arrows YY.
It is convenient to revolve the shaft D' of the cutting disks by means of a small
turbine or similar motor E driven by compressed air through pipes E' from the
main E.
While preserving the general principle that the loose threads shall be lifted by
a current of air from the main body of the lace for their proper reception in the
cutting frame, this effect may be produced equally by aspiration of the air from
above the lace. This modification dispenses with an air blast chamber beneath the
lace and substitutes therefor a closed chamber above the lace and enclosing the
cutting disks g. Figs. 4 and 5. This chamber is connected by pipe e¹ to a main e
leading to a suction pump or equivalent aspirator, and has below an opening just
in front of the comb h equivalent to the comb A with its blades B before described.
The aspirator draws in a current of air at fand consequently lifts the loose threads
so that the points of the comb pass beneath them as previously described.
It is also possible to shift the lace laterally under stationary cutter frames in
place of moving the latter over the lace, and this modification of the manner of
carrying this invention into effect is also illustrated in Figs. 3 to 5.
The shaft of the disks of each cutter frame extend outward through the end
walls of the case a and is carried in bearings j in the yoke carried on the fixed
frame e a pulley is provided on each shaft and the endless belt or cord m
transfers movement to all the pulleys from the pulley n. The bars carry the
case a.
The lace is carried by two parallel rollers o on the sliding frame P to which
movement is given by the cam q and springs q' back and forth in direction of the
axes of the rollers o.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of this inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I .declare that what 1
claim is ;-
In machinery for cutting the connecting threads between figures of the pattern
upon imitation lace.
1. The combination with a cutting frame having a series of cutters adapted to
sever threads in their passage, of means for producing an air current in front of
said cutters whereby loose threads are removed from contact with the base of the
fabric and brought within the passage of the said cutters.
2. The combination with a series of cutter frames and air current producers
adapted to operate for severing loose threads as described, of means for providing
a relative back and forth movement between the lace and said cutter frames and
air current producers whereby the latter operate upon a desired width of lace
substantially as described.

page_text: 3. The construction and combination of the pants of the machine for the purpose
set forth substantially as herein described and illustrated.
Dated this 6th day of June 1893
HERBERT & Co.,
Agents to Applicant.