IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ELASTIC FABRICS, AND ARTICLES OF ELASTIC FABRICS
Year: 1842

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, CALEB
BEDELLS, of Leicester, Manufacturer, and JOSEPH BEDELLS, of the same Place,
Assistant to the said Caleb Bedells, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Iler
Letters Patent, under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date at West-
minster the Thirteenth day of January, in the fifth year of Her reign,
did, for Herself, ler heirs and successors, give and grant unto us, the
said Caleb Bedells and Joseph Bedells, IIer especial licence, full power, sole
privilege and authority, that we, the said Caleb Bedells and Joseph Bedells,
our exors, adiñors, and assigns, or such others as we, the Caleb Bedells and
Joseph Bedells, our exors, adññiors, or assigns, should at any time ngree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times during the term
of years therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise,
and vend, within England, Wales, and the Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed,
our Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ELASTIC FABRICS, AND
ARTICLES OF ELASTIC FABRICS;" in which said Letters Patent is contained a
proviso that we, the said Caleb Bedells and Joseph Bedells, or one of
us, shall
cause a particular description of the nature of our said Invention, and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be inrolled in Her said Majesty's
High Court of Chancery within six calendar months next and immediately
after the date of the said in part recited Letters Patent, as in and by the
same, reference being thereunto had, will more fully and at large appear.

page_text: Caleb Bedells and Joseph Bedells, do hereby declare that the nature of our
Invention, and the manner in which the same is to be performed, are fully
described and ascertained in and by the following statement thereof, reference
being had to the Drawings hereunto annexed, and to the figures and letters
markod thereon, that is to say:-
Our Invention relates,-
First, to a mode of producing a woven fabric, having indin-rubber threads
introduced therein, in order to give elasticity thereto, such fabrics being pro-
duced in those classes of bobbin net or twist Inco machines which work with
the warp lengthwise of the fabrics produced.
Secondly, our Invention relates to a mode of manufacturing bobbin net or
twist lace fabrics, by applying, in the making thereof, warp threads of india-
rubber, around which the bobbin threads twist in forming the meshes of tho
fabric.
And, thirdly, our Invention relates to a mode of making stocking or knit
fabrics, by combining therewith longitudinal threads of india-rubber.
And in order that our Invention may be most fully described, we will
proceed to explain the means pursued by us.
The first part of our Invention relates to a mode of manufacturing elastic
fabrics in bobbin net or twist lace machines, and consists in using threads or
yarns of india-rubber, in combination with extra warp threads of cotton, silk,
or other spun fibrous material. It is well known that bobbin net or twist laco
machines usually work with one warp thread to each bobbin thread, but in
some cases two or more warp threads have been used in bobbin net or twist
lace machines, wherein the warp threads constitute the longitudinal threads of
the fabrics produced; such mode of working being to obtain ornamental twist
lace or bobbin net, composed partly of meshes and partly of close woven cloth-
work in pattern: we mention this circumstance in order to state that we do
not claim the using of two or more warp threads to each bobbin thread, when
india-rubber threads are not used in order to give elasticity to such fabrics;
and wo would further remark that we are aware that some attempts have been
made to introduce india-rubber into some of the fabrics produced in bobbin
net or twist lace machines, but in such cases there have not been extra threads
of cotton or silk, or other suitable material, working with the bobbin threads,
but have been fabrics formed with one warp thread to each bobbin throad,
producing partial close weaving, but no meshes; we, therefore, wish to stato
that we do not, in the first part of our Invention, claim the introduction of
india-rubber threads or yarns into fabrics produced by bobbin net or twist lace

page_text: machines, when there are not extra threads of cotton, or other fibrous materials
introduced to work with the bobbin threads.
It may here be stated that
by using extra threads to each of the bobbin threads, combined with the use of
india-rubber threads, close-woven elastic fabrics may be produced in bobbin
net or twist lace machines, which will be found to be very elastic, and highly
useful for bands for drawers, and other parts of garments, as well as for other
purposes where elastic fabrics are used. The construction of bobbin net or
twist lace machines being well understood, and such being the case in respect
to their modes of working, it will not be necessary to enter into a particular
description thereof in this Specification; and we have used that description of
machinery which works by what are called single-bladed roller lockers for
carrying out this part of our Invention; we do not, however, confine ourselves
thereto, as other clases of machines may be used which work the warp threads
longitudinally into the fabrics produced. And in order that this part of our
Invention may more readily be understood by a workman, we have annexed
the Drawing marked A to this our Specification, in which we have shown a
section of some of the parts of a bobbin net or twist lace machine arranged for
carrying out this part of our Invention; and we have also shewn a cut of lace
wheels used by us for producing a close-woven fabric, having india-rubber
introduced at intervals, according to the effect desired to be obtained; and the
Drawing A also shows the points used for taking up the work, which are flat,
in order to beat up the work closely, and not to draw off too much of the
bobbin threads at each time of taking up; wo have also shewn a lead of the
ordinary guides for the warp threads of cotton, silk, or other spun fibres, and
we have shown a lead of guides such as we use for introducing warp threads of
india-rubber. a, b, c, and d, are the four guide bars for carrying the two sets of
warp threads, that is, two to each bobbin thread, which are worked independent
of each other. The guide bars a and b carry the front warp threads, each
bar having as many warp threads as there are carriages in the front row; and
india-rubber threads are introduced by the guide bar b at such distances apart
as the workinan may determine, using other warp threads in the guides of the
guide bar 6 where india-rubber threads are nut used; hence, the front row of
bobbins will have a double complement of warp threads, partly india-rubber,
and partly of inclastic yarns or threads. The guide bars c and d carry the warp
threads for the back row of carriages, each guide bar having as many guides
and inelastic warp threads as there are carriages in the back row, by which
means the back row of carriages will have a double complement of threads,
and cach guide bar is capable of independent movement, the one from the
other. The india-rubber threads are used when in the stretched and inelastic

page_text: state, and we prefer that they should not be covered, and elasticity is obtained
to the india-rubber threads in the fabrics produced by means of heat, as is well
understood. The machine is worked in the ordinary manner, and tho laco
wheels will cause the guide bars and the front comb bar to be shogged, so as
to produce the fabric desired, which, according to the arrangement shown, will
be a close-woven fabric, having india-rubber introduced, but the cut of wheels
may be varied, if a different linking of the threads be desired; and wo prefer
that there should be intervals of the fabric produced between the india-rubber
threads, by which means, when elasticity is obtained to the india-rubber, tho
fabric will become plaited, and if made in breadths, and the strands or threads
of india-rubber are only introduced into one selvage, the other will be a close-
woven fabric, which will become plaited, and form a frill by the contracting of
the india-rubber threads. If I desire to make lace combined with close-woven
fabric, and elasticated by india-rubber, then I have recourse to means such as
are described in the Specification by a Patent granted to Mr. William Crofts,
of Radford, near Nottingham, bearing date at Westminster, the Eighth day of
May, One thousand eight hundred and thirty-eight; but we make no claim
thereto, this part of our luvention being confined to the combining of indin-
rubber threads as warp threads, in bobbin net or twist lace machines wherein
extra warp
threads are used with bobbin threads, so as that each bobbin thread
may work with two warp threads.
We will now describe the second part of our Invention, which relates to the
application of india-rubber threads or yarns as warp threads, in the manu-
facture of twist laco made in machines whero the warp threads are worked
longitudinally into the lace fabrics produced, and in such manner that the
bobbin threads in working with such warp threads of india-rubber twist round
them in forming the pillars of the fabrics of lace, and we prefer to uso the
inlin-rubber threads in the uncovered state, the act of the bobbin threads
twisting round covering the indin-rubber threads sufficiently. In making
fabrics of bobbin net or twist lace according to this part of our Invention, we
introduce the strands or threads of india-rubber in such manner that there
shall be intervals of lace without any india-rubber threads, and such intervals
may be wider or narrower according to the determination of the workman, and
he may have one, two, or more strands of india-rubber between each two widths
of lace, according to the strength of elasticity desirod, whereby, when the lace
fabric produced is taken out of the machine and the india-rubber threads aro
rendered clastic by the application of heat as is well understood, the spaces of
lace not containing india-rubber will be plaited, and if the india-rubber threads
are only introduced at one selvage of breadths of laco, the broadths will be

page_text: plaited into frills, thus producing improved and elegant artioles made from
clastic fabrics, applicable for the wrists of gloves, and useful as an ornamental
article for various parts of garments, and the lace part of the fabric may be
made, according to taste, more or less plain or ornamental.
In carrying out this part of our Invention we use ordinary constructions of
bobbin net or twist lace machinery which works the warp threads longitudinally
into the lace fabrics produced, and in place of using all the warp threads of
inelastic threads or yarns, we apply india-rubber threads or yarns from a
separate beam or bobbins at intervals in place of some of the other warp
threads, leaving out the inelastic threads where we use india-rubber, and we
prefer to use guides such as are shewn at 6, for introducing the india-rubber
warp threads.
We have above stated, that we are aware that it has been attempted, but we
believe without success, to use india-rubber threads in fabrics made in bobbin
net or twist lace machines, the fabrics not being composed of lace or meshes
produced by twisting of the bobbin threads round the warp threads, such
fabrics having been composed of a like number of bobbin threads and warp
threads, caused to weave amongst each other, producing a partially close
fabric; we do not therefore claim the introduction of india-rubber threads into
fabrics produced in bobbin net or twist lace machines generally, this part of
the Invention being confined to the combining of india-rubber warp threads in
bobbin net or twist lace fabrics produced in machines which work the warp
threads longitudinally into the lace fabrics produced. It should be stated, that
in carrying out this part of our Invention, that care is to be observed in avoiding
rubbing of the india-rubber warp threads as much as possible by the passage
of the carriages; for this purpose, it is desirable to use the carriages somewhat
thinner than would otherwise be used for the same guage and the taking-up
points should be set to enter with correctness, so as to prevent their rubbing
the india-rubber warp threads more than is absolutely unavoidable. It will be
found that the elastio fabrics produced by this part of our Invention when
formed into "mitts" as well as into other articles, those articles owing to the
elegance and lightness of the elastic fabrics will be greatly improved, and the
narrow breadths will be found particularly useful and elegant for the wrists of
gloves.
We will now describe the third part of our Invention, which relates to a
mode of introducing india-rubber into knit or stocking fabrics, whereby a
novel description of elastic fabrics will be produced; and such part of the
Invention consists in introducing india-rubber threads or strands lengthwise of
the fabric. The construction of stocking frames being well understood, it will

page_text: not be necessary to enter into a description thereof, we will therefore confine
ourselves to pointing out such alterations as are made for carrying out this
part of our Invention.
The Drawing marked B shows so much of the parts of a stocking frame as
will enable us to explain this part of our Invention. is the ordinary thread
carrier, which places its thread of cotton or other inelastic material on to the
needles in the ordinary way, to be looped by the jack and lead sinkers as
heretofore; y are the india-rubber threads, one between each space of the
needles, or at intervals according to the degree of strength desired to bo
obtained by the introduction of the india-rubber into the fabric; z is a second
thread carrier, which places a thread of cotton or other spun yarn at the back
of tho india-rubber threads when the sinker frame is tilted into the position
shown at Figure 2 of the Drawing B; Figure 1, representing the parts in the
positions they would assume when the thread carrier is placing its thread on
to the needles. w is a bar attached to the sinker frame, and which stands
across the front of the work and is kept pressed up thereto by the workman's
hand at the time of drawing the jacks in order to cause the work to be pressed
back on to the stems of the needles, and when the bar is relieved it is drawn
back by springs into the position shown in Figure 2; the object of using the
bar w is to overcome the tendency whieli the longitudinal india-rubber threads
would have to draw the work towards the beards of the needles. In working
with the machine thus arranged the workman would cause the thread carrier
to lay its thread on to the needles, the sinkers would then sink the same in
the ordinary manner, and carry the loops into the beards of the needles, the
sinkers would then be raised up into the position shewn in Figure 2, when the
thread carrier is to be caused to lay its thread at the back of the india-rubber
longitudinal threads, the presser bar will close the beards of the needles and
the work and extra threads will be knocked over the heads of the needles; by
this means the longitudinal threads y will be securely held into the fabric, and
thus will be obtained a new description of elastic fabric, consisting of knit or
stocking fabric having longitudinal threads introduced therein.
Having thus described the nature of our Invention, and the best means wo
are acquainted with for performing the same, we would have it understood that
what wo claim is,-
First, the mode of manufacturing elastic fabrics in bobbin net or twist lace
machines, by combining in the fabrics produced thereby india-rubber threads
with other extra threads, whereby the bobbin threads cach work with two
warp threads..
'
Secondly, we claim the application of india-rubber warp threads in bobbin

page_text: net or twist lace fabrics at intervals, so as to cause the lace fabrics in com-
bination therewith to be plaited, as above described.
And, thirdly, we claim the mode of manufacturing stocking or knit fabrics,
by introducing longitudinal threads of india-rubber therein, as above described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Caleb Bedells, have hereunto set my hand
and seal, this Thirteenth day of July, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and forty-two.
AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the Thirteenth day of July, in the
year of our Lord 1842, the aforesaid Caleb Bedells came before our said
Lady the Queen in Her Chancery, and acknowledged the Specification
aforesaid, and all and every thing therein contained and specified, in form
above written. And also the Specification aforesaid was stamped according to
the tenor of the Statute made for that purpose.
Inrolled the Thirteenth day of July, in the year of our Lord One thousand
eight hundred and forty-two.