IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS TO BE EMPLOYED IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES
Year: 1877

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Edwin Powley Alexander, of 14, Southampton Buildings,.
in the County of Middlesex, Consulting Engineer and Patent Agent, for the
Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS TO BE EMPLOYED
IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES." A communication from abroad
by Rene Cathelineau, of Paris, in the Republic of France.
Sealed the 27th October 1877, and dated the 19th May 1877.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Edwin Powley Alexander at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 19th May 1877.
66
EDWIN POWLEY ALEXANDER, of 14, Southampton Buildings, in the County of
Middlesex, Consulting Engineer and Patent Agent. IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY
OR APPARATUS TO BE EMPLOYED IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES."
A communication from abroad. by Rene Cathelineau, of Paris, in the Republic of
France.
This Invention relates to a peculiar construction and arrangement of machinery
or apparatus, and accessories thereto, for stretching the uppers of boots and shoes,
and mounting or securing the same on to the last.
The last holder in this machine is made reversible, so as to present either the
upper or the under part upwards as required without removing, the last from. its
holder, thereby admitting of the whole of the operation being performed in one and
the same machine.
The improved mounting machine consists of a horizontal fixed support, which
may, if preferred, be placed vertically and with the parts connected therewith in
suitable relative positions, but for convenience I shall assume the support to be
placed horizontally. Between two uprights on the said support there is pivotted
horizontally an open frame, one of the trunnions of which is hollow and has a screw
spindle passing through it, moved to and fro by. a fixed nut and hand wheel: This
screw serves to grip the heel end of the last, the toe of which bears upon a swivel
support, against which it is pressed by a pressing surface and screw spindle,
carried by a bridle piece pivotted to the sides of the open frame of the holder.
The holder is retained in position, having the bottom of the last either upward.or
I downward as required, by a removeable pin. and slotted plate. The leather..is

page_text: strained across the top of the last by any required number of pincers acting from
below, which are adjusted towards or from each other transversely to the last by
a right and left handed adjusting screw, and are each caused to grip the edge of
the leather by the action of short levers in connection with jointed links and a cross
bar, which latter is again connected by a band or strap with a small ratchet wind-
lass barrel. Another pincer is disposed at the toe end of the last, and is drawn
outwards and tightly closed at same time by a windlass and strap, the latter
being connected with a short hinged lever acting on one of the limbs of the pincers
'so as to close the jaws. Others pincers of similar construction to the first ones
are applied for drawing the edges of the upper leather well down upon and across
the surface of the sole of the last after it has been reversed, to facilitate the inser-
tion of the holding sprigs or tacks, these pincers being actuated by lever handles
mounted on the side of the open frame of the last holder.
Whilst the edges of the upper leather are thus well strained or drawn over the
sides of the sole of the last the small nails for securing it in position are inserted
by a self-acting contrivance mounted on a horizontally swivelling frame, which
. carries a heavy plate serving as a hammer, and which plate is maintained elevated
by helical springs surrounding vertical guiding rods. This hammer is worked
by duplex levers actuated by a treadle, and forces down a rod which strikes a mag-
netized piece of metal carrying a nail, which is held by attraction on the end of
it. As this magnetized nail inserter descends it pushes out of its way an auto-
matic feeder, which supplies it with nails, one by one, as required, and forces the
nail attracted to its extremity into the leather.
In order to insert the nails at the parts required the inserter and feeder are
moved along by a rack actuated by a ratchet wheel and escapement movement,
which derives their motion from the hammer.
The feeder contains at one end the nails to be inserted, and has a wheel revolv-
ing therein fitted at regular intervals round its circumference with small magnets,
each of which picks up one or more nails and delivers them to the opposite end of
the feeder, the surplus nails being knocked off by a cross bar and falling back
again, whilst those which are delivered are detached by coming in contact with a
stationary stop, and are then allowed to slide down a slotted incline in regular
order with their heads upwards, so as to be in readiness to be caught by the mag-
netized end of the inserter. As the inserter ascends again it allows the feeder to
come forward with a fresh nail, and so on. The rotary magnet wheel in the
feeder is worked by a slow motion from a rod connected with the hammer.
It is also proposed to employ as an auxiliary to the before-mentioned machine a
last holder, provided with pincers acting from opposite edges of the sole, such
pincers being caused to close or bite, and to stretch or pull the leather at the
same time over the last by the action of short levers, connected directly with
screw spindles, the said pincers being mounted on upright arms, working on ful-
crum pins at their lower ends so as to be capable of being adjusted or moved
along the last from toe to heel thereof. This or the previously described arrange-
ment of pincers may be applied to the mounting machine, as found most desirable
in practice.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed
by the said Edwin Powley Alexander in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
12th November 1877.
EDWIN POWLEY ALEXANDER, of 14, Southampton Buildings, in the County of
Middlesex, Consulting Engineer and Patent Agent. "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY
OR APPARATUS TO BE EMPLOYED IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES."
A communication from abroad by Rene Cathelineau, of Paris, in the Republic of
France.

page_text: The said Invention relates to a peculiar construction, arrangement, and com-
bination of machinery or apparatus, and accessories thereto, for stretching or
straining the uppers of boots and shoes, and for mounting or securing the same
on to the last.
The last holder in the said improved machine is made reversible, so as to present
either the upper or the under part upwards as required, without necessitating the
removal of the last from its holder, thereby admitting of the whole of the operations
being performed in one and the same machine.
The said machine enables all kinds of boots and shoes to be mounted therein,
aomits of the leather being stretched or strained in every direction; also of the
automatic insertion of the sprigs by the aid of the peculiar auxiliary apparatus
herein-after described.
And in order that the said Invention may be more fully understood I shall now
proceed more particularly to describe the same, and for that purpose shall refer to
the several Figures on the explanatory Sheet of Drawings hereunto annexed, the .
same letters of reference indicating corresponding parts in all the corresponding
Figures.
Figure 1 of the Drawings represents a longitudinal vertical section of the
improved machine; Figure 2 is a corresponding plan of the same; and Figure 3
is a transverse vertical section, taken along the line 1-2 in Figure 1.
The entire machine is mounted upon a stand A, and is supported by the two
uprights B and B. The frame C of the last holder rests by its trunnions in the
uprights B and B¹. The upright B₁ carries a projection b, in which is mounted
the stretching windlass D, the action of which transmitted to the pincers P operates
through the said pincers upon the leather, which it stretches lengthwise. A second
projection receives within a slot the trunnion c of the frame C, which only
rests upon the support at the moment of stretching. As the support is free to slide
in guides on the table or stand it may be brought nearer to or further from the
frame. This frame carries at its opposite extremity a hollow trunnion c¹ for the
passage through it of the screw spindle v, terminating in the heel holder E. The
head of the support B which receives this trunnion is enlarged, and in the rear of
the said hollow trunnion it also carries the end of the internally screwed boss F of
the hand wheel f. This boss serves as a nut for adjusting the screw spindle
forward or backward, in order to regulate the position of the heel holder as regards
the last, according to the dimensions of the latter. It will thus be seen that this
frame is free to turn in the support B, and that the bearing of the trunnion c is
only brought into action during the time the pincers are caused to operate. The
front pincer, which acts longitudinally, is actuated by a windlass arrangement,
consisting of a handle, a toothed wheel and pinion, a ratchet wheel, and riband of
steel for coiling on the barrel, and a strap, band, or chain, as found desirable.
For accomplishing the lateral stretching or straining of the leather a different
arrangement is employed. Within the thickness of the table or stand and in the
direction of its length there is provided a slot or groove, within which slides a
flanged socket G capable of oscillating upon two transverse pins or trunnions
having their bearings in the supports g, which also slide along the stand along
with the socket. A rod H, provided with a hook at the upper end and a ring at
the lower extremity, passes through the socket, whilst a helical spring tends
constantly to maintain the said rod elevated. The connection of the pincers P
with the draw hook is effected in the manner shown at Figure 3.
With a view to obtain a powerful and progressive strain, there is fixed under
the table a support consisting of two jaws I, between which works a lever J on
the fulcrum j. An eccentric K, provided with a handle and ratchet, acts upon
one end of the said lever J, the opposite end entering the ring on the rod H, and
effecting by the movement of the eccentric the pulling action of the pincers P.
In order to increase the power of this eccentric it may be worked by a toothed
wheel and pinion.
The tightening of the holding plate L is accomplished by an arched bridle piece
.

page_text: M, each end of which is jointed to jaws m sliding in the slots c² of the, frame C.
The fixing of the jaws in position is effected by the transverse pins or keys m' (see
Figure 3). The bridle picce M is provided at the top with an internally screwed
boss, through which passes the screw spindle m², which holds the plate Lin
position and applies pressure thereto on turning the hand wheel V. Thus the
bridle piece M can be readily adjusted to any desired position, according to the
sizes of the boots or shoes, and be there fixed by the pins m' passing through one
or other of a series of holes made in the frame C.
The last is sustained in front by the pivotting support N, and at the rear by the
small holding jaws o on the heel holder E. In some cases the heel holder may be
lowered sufficiently to allow the screw spindle to operate upon the centre thereof.
When the leather has been properly stretched over the last the small bolt p is
removed, and the frame C is turned over on its trunnion so as to bring the under
side of the last uppermost in order to proceed with the sprigging (see Figure 4).
This same Figure illustrates a most efficatious mode of straining or bending the
leather over the edges of the last by the aid of pincers P and combined levers.
Figure 5 refers to another mode of straining or bending the leather, which con-
sists of a support Q sliding in the ways c² of the horizontal frame C. The object
is to draw at most about one inch and a quarter; a small lever R¹, actuated by a
screw and handle S, accomplishes in a perfect manner the said traction of the
pincers P.
A third arrangement for stretching and bending the leather is shown at Figure 6,
and consists in providing at the sides of the frame two axes a, a, entering ears
which form part of the said frame. These axes are grooved, and each carry a
handle P fitted with a detent pin engaging into the groove, which allows it to
slide along the axis whilst at the same time imparting the necessary rotary move-
ment thereto. The handle P' carries a small lever arm acting upon the toothed
end of the arm of the pincer P. This is an expeditious and effective arrangement.
The sprigging apparatus, which completes the said Invention, consists of a
column R (Figures 1 and 2) fixed on to the supports of the machine, and an over-
hanging frame S capable of turning round the said column. The lower part of this
frame is fitted with a moveable rack s, having for its object to carry with it in its
movement a sprig distributor T, which I shall herein-after describe. To actuate
this rack two connected levers U are employed, worked by a suitable treadle, each
lever being connected at one end to the part V', which I call the "hammer," and
which is guided by two rods fixed to the arm of the swinging frame. Two helical
springs tend constantly to maintain the hammer elevated. This hammer is pro-
vided with a species of escapement movement X so disposed that when descending
one of the catches slides over the back of the teeth of the ratchet wheel Y, and in
ascending the other catch causes the ratchet wheel to turn round to the extent
of one tooth.
As will be seen on referring to Figure 1, this ratchet wheel is composed of two
plates, the second one of which carries on its face a series of pins which gear into
the teeth of the rack s. The motion imparted to the escapement movement is
transmitted through the pin wheel to the rack, and causes the same to advance.
Although Figures 1, 2, and 3 illustrate this apparatus as placed perpendicularly
to the axis of the frame of the mounting machine, it is understood that for the
purposes of sprigging it will be placed above this frame in order to bring its action
over the edge of the leather.
The facility afforded for swinging or pivotting the frame S. round the column
which supports it enables it to operate on all the points required. The distributor
of the sprigs and the tool for inserting them are both self-acting. A trough T
(shown in detail in Figures 7 and 8) constitutes the distributor. The hammer V1
operates by its movement a rod z, which drives a retarding movement Z, mounted
along the side of the trough. A wheel W, the circumference of which is provided
with magnetised plates w, and which is driven by the toothed wheel Z, carries
☐

page_text: with it in its rotation a certain number of sprigs contained within the chamber [³
of the trough. A partition plate C² arrests and causes to fall during their passage
a portion of the sprigs taken up by the magnets, thus allowing only such a number
to pass as may be required to feed the apparatus. The sprigs which are carried
over encounter the stop b², escape from the magnets, and slide down the inclined
plane which conducts them one by one and with the head upwards in a groove
where they are caught by the point of the magnet u', which slides in a boss Ui
moved by the rack s. This point has a rod u above it which is kept elevated under
the hammer V by the helical spring u². The upper part of u¹ is formed with a
projection e, which bears against a moveable piece e¹ fitted to the front of the
trough. This piece e' is arrested by a stop i which limits its descent, but it is free
as regards its upward movement, which is produced by encountering the pro-
jection e.
The mode of operation of this apparatus will be readily understood. The rod u
which surmounts the point u¹, being pressed upon by the hammer V₁ descends,
and causes the projection e to bear against the piece e', which is arrested in its
movement by the stop i, and has for its object to push out of the way the dis-
tributor after each time the magnetised point has taken up or attracted a sprig.
The hammer continuing to descend, and driving down the point, the nail or sprig
encounters the leather, and is forced therein, after which the whole is again
elevated to its original position, the distributor returns to its place under the
magnetised point u¹, and the operations are repeated and continued for the inser-
tion of the remaining sprigs.
Figures 9 and 10 represent respectively a side and end view of an improved
goloshing machine, so constructed as to be capable of being inclined to the right
or to the left to any required extent, thus obviating the displacement or change of
position of the workman. The workman fixes the sole by suitably adjusting the
heel holder through the intervention of the screw V which actuates it. He
stretches the leather by the aid of the pincers P, and then inclines the machine to
the angle desired. He traces the groove or channel for the tacks, inserts the
same, releases the tension on the leather, and completes the other well-known
operations.
In large establishments, where the division of labour is carried out, the workman
has simply to fix three or four tacks on each side of the golosh, the operation being
afterwards completed on the sole holder.
In Figures and 12 an arrangement of last holder, with pincers for drawing
the uppers over or across the edges of the last is represented, similar to the
mounting machine above described. This last holder is an auxiliary, which is
simply shown with reference to the stretching, which operation is in this case
effected by the aid of pincers actuated directly by screws, in lieu of by levers and
ratchets. The stretching appliances turn upon a joint pin between jaws, and can
thus be brought from the heel to the toe. or vice versa.
The stretching arrangement shown at Figure 13 differs from the preceding one
in being provided with hand levers working between jaws, and underneath the
said jaws in each branch of the frame there is provided a screw spindle, actuated
by a winch handle, which operates upon the lever and effects its advancement
whilst limiting its course. The lever may also be actuated by hand by means of
its handle. This arrangement possesses the advantage of leaving the two hands
of the workman free to operate upon boots or shoes, the uppers of which it is
difficult to stretch over the last.
i
Another improvement in detail which I claim as part of the said Invention.
consists of the metal cramps (Figures 14 and 15), which dispense with the tacking
of the uppers after they have been stretched or mounted in the machine. These
cramps are attached at the heel to a stirrup, furnished with a vertical slide
which allows them to descend more or less, according to the different sizes. Near
the bottom of the last are made a number of elongated shallow holes, which corre-
spond with the small rounded points rivetted along the said cramps. These points

page_text: force and maintain the uppers within the hollows in the last, and in a suitable
position for enabling the leather under the cramps to be 'blackened or polished
when the uppers are stretched.
I may also here refer to Figure 16 as a simple arrangement of apparatus 'for
drawing or stretching the uppers, wherein the steel bands, the windlasses; and
other appliances may be dispensed with. It comprises a Vaucauson or pitch chain,
and consists of an eccentric A, provided with a ratchet, mounted on the table B.
This eccentric acts upon a lever L, keyed on to the axle C, which carries at one
end the toothed,wheel D. The teeth of this wheel gear with those of the chain E,
which is attached at its extremity to the pincers P. The descent of the eccentric
upon the lever causes a certain amount of rotation of the wheel 'D, .and conse-
quently produces a strain upon the chain and pincers. A groove R made in the
table admits of the displacement of the lever and its wheel in conformity with 'the
displacement of the pincers.
Figure 17 is another last holder, having for its object the overcoming the dis-
advantages attendant upon the shell form of last holder. In this arrangement the
boot or shoe is held upon a vertical support F which slides along the bar G, it
being held perfectly tight by the lever H, which works on a fulcrum h in the end
of the bar G. This lever is provided with a moveable heel holder I, and is
traversed at its lower extremity by a screw spindle J, which by pressing against
the part g determines the amount of pressure against the heel of the boot or shoe.
The position of the fulcrum of the lever may be altered by inserting it in one or
other of the holes made to receive it in the lever, so as to raise or lower the 'heel
holder, according to the dimensions of the last.
Figure 18 differs from the previous one, inasmuch as the whole system' is hinged
at K, in order to admit of its being inclined more or less to the right or left, as
required..
It is obvious that without departing from the said Invention, the shapes of many
of the parts may be modified as well as the mechanical movements, and that the
general position of the machine may be changed; for example, it may be disposed
vertically in lieu of horizontally, taking care that the auxiliary parts are disposed
so as to conform to the general position of the machine.
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of the said
Invention and the manner in which the same is or may be used or carried into
effect, I would observe in conclusion, that what I consider to be novel and
original, and therefore claim as the Invention secured to me by the herein-before in
part recited Letters Patent, is the construction, arrangement, and combination of
machinery, or apparatus, and accessories to be employed in the manufacture of
boots and shoes, substantially as herein-before described and illustrated by the
Drawings hereunto annexed.
In witness whereof, I, the said Edwin Powley Alexander, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Tenth day of November, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and seventy-seven.
EDWIN P. ALEXANDER. (L.S.)