Improvements in Fur and Glove Sewing Machines.
Year: 1896

page_text: Date of Application, 23rd Nov., 1896-Accepted, 5th June, 1897
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Fur and Glove Sewing Machines.
I, JOHN FREDERICK WILHELM, of No. 48 West Fourth Street, in the City of
New York, in the County and State of New York, United States of America,
Machinist, do hereby declare the nature of this invention, and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained, in and
by the following statement:-
The invention relates to improvements in fur and glove sewing machines, and
consists in the novel features of construction and arrangement of devices and
combinations of parts hereinafter described and particularly pointed out in the
claims.
The machine made the subject hereof embraces the usual parallel horizontal feed
disks, horizontal reciprocating needle and oscillating looper, all of which in the
present machine have their customary and usual movements. The present invention
resides in certain improvements in the main supporting frame of the machine and
in the operative mechanism intermediate the feed disks, needle and looper and the
main driving shaft. The object of the invention is to simplify the operative
mechanisms, reduce them in number, bring them into more effective operative
relations, render them more positive in action and more durable in use and adapt
them for convenient adjustment, and to produce a machine capable of ready
manufacture and ease of operation.
The invention will be readily understood from the detailed description
hereinafter presented, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, in
which:-
Figure 1 is a vertical longitudinal section through a machine constructed in
accordance with and embodying the invention, the section being on the dotted
line 1-1 of Figure 3;
Figure 2 is a vertical transverse section of a portion of same on the dotted
line 2-2 of Figure 3 and illustrating a part of the front of the machine, a portion
of the latter being in section in line with the screw by which the feed mechanism
may be adjusted;
Figure 3 is a top view, partly in section of same, the covering cap for the frame
of the machine being omitted;
Figure 4 is a detached top view of a reciprocating bar which carries the looper
bar;
Figure 5 is a detached vertical section of a portion of the machine on the dotted
line 5-5 of Figure 3;
Figure 6 is a detached elevation of one of the cams forming a part of the
operative mechanism of the machine;
Figure 7 is a transverse horizontal section of the machine on the dotted line 7-7
of Figure 1;
Figure 8 is a perspective view of the cam shown in side elevation in Figure 6;
Figure 9 is a vertical section of same on the dotted line 9-9 of Figure 6;
Figure 10 is a perspective view of a portion of the interior mechanism of the
machine and is hereinafter specifically referred to; and
Figure 11 is a perspective view of an actuating arm which in use is intermediate
the cam illustrated in Figure 8 and the looper bar and imparts motion from the
former to the latter.
In the drawings A designates the main frame of the machine; B, C, the usual
horizontal substantially parallel feed disks; D the needle and E the looper. The

page_text: disks are of the usual well-known form and construction, the disk B heing mounted
upon the upper end of the usual revoluble vertical shaft F, upon whose lower end
the feed actuating mechanism is applied as hereinafter described. The feed disk C
is mounted upon the lower inwardly turned end G of the reciprocating bar H, the
main body of which ascends above the disk C and thence turus directly rearward
through guides I formed in the frame A of the machine. The bar H is held within
the guides I by means of the serews J, J, entering the frame of the machine, as
illustrated in Figure 3, and having their heads projecting over the upper surface of
said bar H. In the base of the guide I is provided the screw K upon which the
bar H rests and the position of which regulates the position of the bar H and
consequently the relation of the disk C to the disk B. By adjusting the screw K
upward or downward the disk C may be adjusted vertically in accordance with the
character of the goods under treatment and the desire of the operative. Upon the
cap L of the frame A being removed, the screws J become exposed and upon their
withdrawal, the bar H may be removed and the screw K adjusted at will. The
screws Jare adapted to the various possible adjustments of the bar H and will be
screwed downward more or less in accordance with the position of the screw K, the
object being to have the screws J retain the bar H in position without so firmly
pressing thereon as to interfere with its proper reciprocating movement.
end of the bar H is provided with shoulders M which serve as stops to prevent
any undue forward movement of said bar. The bar H is pivotally connected with
the upper end of the lever N which is pivotally mounted at O and at its lower rear
end is connected with the usual treadle, not shown, and also with the spring P.
Upon the treadle being depressed by the foot of the operative, the lower end of
the lever N will be thrown rearward and this will have the effect of causing the
upper end of the lever N to move the bar H and feed disk C forward, thus
separating the disks B, C, and permitting the insertion of the goods between them.
Upon the foot of the operative being removed from the usual treadle, the spring P
will restore the lover N to its normal position, thereby causing the bar Hand disk C
to return rearward to their former position, the disk C pressing the goods against
the edge of the disk B as usual. The upper end of the lever N is slotted, as
illustrated in Figure 1, and passes upon the pin Q secured to the bar H, and hence
the lever N is enabled to actuate the bar H in the manner above described. The
spring Pat its rear end is connected with the lever N while at its front end said
spring is connected with the screw R which passes through the front of the machine
and is provided with the adjusting nut S. The screw R is not permitted to revolve,
but is adapted to have a direct longitudinal movement under the action of the
.nut S, the purpose of which is to enable the operative to conveniently regulate the
tension of the spring P upon the lever N, bar H and disk C. It will be observed
that the nut S is in convenient position to be readily grasped by the operative and
that the tension on the disk C may be quickly and conveniently adjusted. The
opposite sides of the screw R are flattened as indicated in Figure 7, in order to
prevent the screw from revolving axially within the aperture through which it
passes, the walls of the aperture closely fitting against the flattened sides of the
screw.
The bar H is of a form as illustrated in Figures 1 and 3, which leaves the lower
part of the machine entirely open for the reception of the goods to be introduced
between the feed disks B, C, and this is a feature of great importance, particularly
when heavy seal goods are to be treated. The bar H of the form shown, the
lever N for operating the same, and the spring P arranged as shown and provided
with the screw R and nut S, constitute a part of the invention sought to be
protected hereby; and a further feature of the present invention resides in the
means provided for securing the bar H in position and providing for the vertical
adjustment of said bar.
The needle bar is lettered T and moves in guides formed in the frame of the
machine. Upon the front end of the bar Tis provided a usual head V for clamping
the needle D, and within the frame of the machine there is secured upon the bar T

page_text: he bifurcated frame W whose opposite members pass downward upon the opposite
sides of the grooved cam X rigidly mounted upon the driving shaft Y. The needle
bar T is given a due reciprocating movement through the frame W and cam X
from the driving shaft Y.
The looper rod proper is lettered a and it carries the usual looper E and imparts
to it a longitudinal reciprocating motion, a transverse oscillatory motion and an up
and down motion, all of which motions are customary and usual in this class of
machines. The looper bar a is mounted in the sleeves b, b, of the bare shown in
detail in Figure 4, which is at its rear end pivotally connected with the rod d by
means of a screw e entering the sleeve, the latter being integral with the said.
bare. The bar d is mounted in guiding apertures in the frame of the machine
and has a due longitudinal reciprocating motion therein and upon the said bar d
is mounted a frame g shown in detail in Figure 10, the upper end of which forms
a yoke à encompassing the grooved cam i secured upon the driving shaft Y. The
action of the can i during the operation of the machine is to impart to the rod d
a reciprocating motion, the said cam coming into contact with the opposite sides of
the yoke h. One member of the frame 9 forms a downwardly extending rod j
carrying the cam m which during the reciprocating motion of the frame g and
rod d serves to actuate the feed mechanism as hereinafter described. The cam i
and frame 9 acting through the rod d impart to the frame or bar e a reciprocating
motion and since said frame or bar e carries the looper bar a the latter will, during
the operation of the machine, have imparted to it a reciprocating motion. It is
Decessary, however, that in addition to the reciprocating motion, the bar a shall
have an axial motion and an up and down motion, and hence the bar c is actuated
from the cam n, through the arm o, to have its up and down motion and the bar a
is actuated from the cam p through the curved arm g to have its axial motion, the
latter being essential to cause the looper to have au oscillatory motion across the
path of the needle. The arm 9 is illustrated in Figure 11 and has upon one end
the sleeve which is secured upon the bar a while at the other end of said arm q
is provided the rollers which enters the cam groove p, as illustrated in Figures 2
and.8. During the revolution of the driving shaft Y the cam p will cause the
lower end of the arm q to have an oscillating movement and since said arm is
secured by a screw or other means to the bar a, the latter will have a corresponding
movement imparted to it, the bar a at such time having an axial movement within
the sleeves b, b, connected with the bar c. The revolving motion of the driving
shaft Y acting through the cam n and arm o, will during the operation of the
machine cause the bar c to have an up and down movement and since the bar c is
connected with the bar a, the latter and the looper E will have imparted to them
the proper up and down motion. In view of the fact that the bar c is pivotally
connected with the rod d the said har may have the up and down motion just
referred to without interfering with its reciprocating motion. The cams n, p,
are formed in the wheel t, which is eccentrically secured upon the driving
shaft Y.
Upon the lower end of the vertical feed shaft F is rigidly secured within the
frame of the machine the disk w which has an upwardly extending annular rim
which supports the two pawls A, the latter at their outer ends being thickened
and grooved to fit upon the upper edges of said rim az, as indicated more clearly
in Figures 1 and 7. The shaft F has mounted upon its lower end above the disk to
the arm B' which extends rearwardly and is provided with a stud C and spring D',
the stud being in contact with the cam m herein before referred to and being caused
to follow the outline of said cam by means of the spring D'. The arm B¹ carries
the pins E' to which are connected the springs F which pass thence to the pawls A',
as indicated in Figure 7, and upon said arm B' adjacent to the base of the shaft F
are provided the ratchet teeth G which are engaged by the points of the pawls A'.
During the reciprocating motion of the rod d and frame g the cam m carried by
said frame moves against the stud C¹ on the arm B' and causes the latter to have
an oscillatory motion, whereby the ratchet teeth G₁ are caused to act upon the

page_text: pawls A and through said pawls to rotate by intermittent motions the disk and
shaft F. The arm B', cam m and reciprocating frame g are new, and constitute
a part of the invention sought to be protected hereby.
The front end of the arm B' extends forward of the shaft F and operates in
connection with the stop H¹ to limit the movement of the arm B' and disk w. The
stop H' consists of the threaded rod mounted in a threaded aperture formed in
the frame of the machine, as illustrated more clearly in Figure 7, and said stop H
is provided with a head I' by which it may be adjusted to suit prevailing conditions.
By moving the stop H¹ outward, the bar B' is permitted to have a larger throw,
and consequently the disk to will under each movement of the cam m have a more
extended axial motion; and when the stop H' is adjusted inward the extent of
movement of the arm B' is restricted and the disk w will have a shorter intermittent
revolving motion. The arm B as shown in Figure 7 is moved in one direction by
the cam m and in the opposite direction by the spring D'. Within the machine
I have provided the guide rod J¹ for the frame g and upon the end of this rod J¹
is formed the flange K' which serves as a stop at the end of the natural movement
of the frame g. The guide rod J' serves not only to guide the frame g but to brace
the lower portion of same and keep the cam m with firmness against the stud C
on the arm B. In the absence of the rod J the force of the spring might
tend to prevent regularity of action in the cam m.
The frame A may be of any suitable or usual construction but in the present
instance have provided certain novel features in the frame A shown. Great
difficulty has been experienced in preventing the oil used in the machine from
getting upon the fur garments being treated, and to overcome this objection, the
bar H has been carried upward and rearward out of the way and the bottom of
the frame A has been closed, as indicated by the solid bottom L'in Figure 1.
The rear portion of the frame A is provided with a door M' by which the interior
mechanism, with the exception of the feed mechanism, may be. reached, and in
order that the feed devices may be readily inspected, the upper front portion of
the frame A is provided with the covering plate or horizontal door N', the latter
being directly over the feed disk to and being secured in a hinged manner by means
of the lugs O engaging pins P', the latter being upon the frame of the machine
and the former upon the lid or door N'. The central portion of the cover N¹ is
cut away to fit around the bracket Q for the lower end of the shaft F and the
lugs Oare at the outer corners of the said lid or cover and pass upon the opposite
side edges of the machine as illustrated more clearly in Figure 7. It will be
noticed that upon the elevation of the lid or cover N¹ the pawls A', springs F1,
disk w and stop H are all exposed and may be readily reached. The presence of
the cover N in the position referred to possesses the further advantage that the
machine does not have to be turned upside down as heretofore when the operative
desires to get at the feed mechanism. In the arrangement of the parts of the
machine an aperture is formed in the bottom L of the machine and the screw
securing the disk to to the shaft F is inserted upward through this aperture, which
is thereafter closed by the screw plug W₁ as illustrated in Figure 1.
As above described, the motions imparted to the needle, looper and feed disks
are the usual and customary motions for this class of machines. The construction
and arrangement of mechanisms hereinbefore described intermediate the looper E
and the main driving shaft aud intermediate the main driving shaft and the vertical
feed shaft as well as other special features of construction specifically pointed
out in the claims, are new, and what is sought to be protected hereby. The stitch
formed is the usual over-seaming stitch universally employed in sewing furs. The
machine constructed in accordance with the present invention is of great simplicity,
durability and efficiency, and has an ease and smoothness of movement and
· positiveness of action not before attained so far as I know in this class of
machines.
The operation of the machine will be understood from the foregoing description
and hence but a brief further reference thereto is necessary. The feed dísk C

page_text: receives its motion from the disk B and the latter is actuated from the main
driving shaft Y, through the medium of the cam i, frame g, cam m, arm B', disk w
and pawls A'. The needle D has a plain reciprocating motion as usual and
receives the same from the main driving shaft Y through the cam X, frame W
and needle bar T. The looper E receives its longitudinal reciprocating motion
from the main driving shaft Y through the cam i, frame g, bare and looper rod a;
and said looper has imparted to it its usual up and down motions or its motions
from the position shown in Figure 1 upward from the disk B, then downward when
over the disk C, then upward when over and about to leave said disk C and then
downward when over the disk B to the position shown in Figure 1, through the
instrumentality of the cam n, arm o, frame or bar c and looper rod a, the latter and
the bar c at such time having a longitudinal oscillating or rocking motion on the
screw e. The looper E receives its usual oscillatory motion across the path of the
needle D by means of the cam p, arm q and rod a.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim, is:-
1. In a sewing machine of the character described, the revoluble feed disk B,
and actuating mechanism connected therewith, combined with the feed disk C, the
horizontal reciprocating bar H carrying said disk C, the pivoted lever connected
with said bar H for moving the same in one direction, and the spring P connected
with said lever for moving said bar in the opposite direction; substantially as set
forth.
2. In a sewing machine of the character described, the feed disk B, and
actuating mechanism connected therewith, combined with the feed disk C, the
horizontal reciprocating bar H at its front end bent downward and under said
disk C and carrying the same, guides for said bar H, the screw K at the base of
one of said guides, the screws J for retaining said bar H, the pivoted lever
connected with said bar H for moving the same in one direction, the forwardly
extending spring connected with said lever for moving the same in the opposite
direction, and the screw R and nut S connected with said spring for adjusting the
latter; substantially as set forth.
3. In a sewing machine of the character described, the feed disks, and the
vertical shaft carrying one of said disks, combined with the disk w on said shaft
and having the rim and pawls A', the arm B' on said shaft and having the
ratchet teeth, the springs intermediate said arm and pawls, the spring D' creating
a tension on said arm B¹ in one direction, and the rigid rod; actuated from the
driving shaft and having the cain m in engagement with said arm B¹ for moving
the latter in the opposite direction; substantially as set forth.
4. In a sewing machine of the character described, the feed disks, and the
vertical shaft carrying one of said disks, combined with the disk w on said shaft
and having the rim and pawls A', the arm B' on said shaft and having the
ratchet teeth for said pawls, the springs intermediate said arm and pawls, the
spring D creating a tension on said arm B' in one direction, a reciprocating cam
in direct contact with said arm for moving it in the opposite direction and
actuated from the driving shaft, and an adjustable regulating stop H' for said
arm B'; substantially as set forth.
5. In a sewing machine of the character described, the feed disks, and the
vertical shaft carrying one of said disks, combined with the oscillatory arm B',
pawl and ratchet mechanism intermediate said arm and said shaft for actuating
the latter from the former, the reciprocating cam m in operative engagement
with said arm B', the spring retaining said arm against said cam, and mechanism
intermediate the main driving shaft and said cam for reciprocating the latter
against said arm B₁; substantially as set forth.
6. In a machine of the character described, the feed disks and actuating
mechanism therefor, and the needle bar and actuating mechanism therefor,

page_text: combined with the looper bar, the bar c carrying said looper bar, the rod a to
which said bar e is pivoted, the cam for reciprocating said rod from the main
driving shaft, the wheel t forming the cams n, p, the arm o passing from the bar c
to said cam n, and the arm a secured at one end on the looper bar and at the other
end engaged by said cam p; substantially as set forth.
7. In a machine of the character described, the feed disks and actuating
mechanism therefor, and the needle bar and actuating mechanism therefor,
combined with the looper bar, the bar e carrying the looper bar, the rod d to
which said bar c is pivoted, the cam for reciprocating said rod from the main
driving shaft, the arm of rigidly connected to the bar c, the cam engaging said
arm o, the arm 9 having a sleeve at one end on said looper bar, and a cam engaging
said arm g; substantially as set forth.
8. In a machine of the character described, the feed disks and actuating
mechanism therefor, and the needle bar and actuating mechanism therefor,
combined with the looper bar, the bar c having the sleeves in which said looper
bar is mounted, the rod d to which said bar e is pivoted, the cam for reciprocating
said rod d from the main driving shaft, the arm o rigidly connected to said bar c,
the cam engaging said arm o, the arm q having a sleeve at one end on said looper
bar, and a cam engaging said arm q; substantially as set forth.
9. In a machine of the character described, the feed disks and actuating
mechanism therefor, and the main driving shaft having the cams X and i and
wheel t, the latter forming the cams n, p, combined with the needle bar, the
frame W thereon engaging said cam X, the rod d having a frame engaging said
cami, the bar e pivoted to said rod d, the arm o intermediate said bare and said
cam n, the looper-bar a carried by said bar c, and the arm g at one end connected
with said looper-bar and at the other engaged by said cam p; substantially as set
forth.
10. In a machine of the character described, the feed disks and actuating
mechanism therefor, and the needle bar and actuating mechanism therefor,
combined with the rod d, the bar c pivotally connected therewith, the looper bar a
carried by said bar c, the cains n, p, arms intermediate the said cams and said
bars c, a, for actuating the latter from the former, the cam i on the driving shaft,
the frame g engaging said cam i and connected with the rod d, and the rod j
forming a part of said frame and in operative relation with the actuating
mechanism of the feed disks, whereby the latter receive motion from a positive
reciprocating frame actuated by the cam on the driving shaft; substantially as set
forth.
11. In a sewing machine of the character described, the revoluble feed disk B
and actuating mechanism connected therewith, combined with the feed disk C, the
horizontal reciprocating bar H carrying at its front end said disk C, guides for
Baid bar H, the pivoted lever connected with said bar for moving the same
forward, the forwardly extending spring connected with said lever and exerting a
tension rearward on said bar H, and the screw and nut for regulating the tension of
said spring from the front of the machine; substantially as set forth.
12. In a machine of the character described, the frame A containing the
operative mechanism and having the closed bottom and the forwardly extending
lower portion enclosing the feed actuating devices, said lower portion having an
opening directly over said feed actuating devices and a removable cover thereon;
substantially as set forth.
V 1. .
7
CAL
1000
JOHN FREDERICK WILHELM.
Haseltine, Lake & Co.,
45 Southampton Buildings, London, W.C., Agents for the Applicant.