IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES:
Year: 1878

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Herbert John Haddan, of the Firm of Herbert and
Company, Solicitors of Patents, of 67, Strand, in the City of Westminster,
Civil Engineer, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES:"
A communication from abroad by John Heberling, of Iowa City, State of Iowa,
United States of America.
Sealed the 23rd May 1879, and dated the 5th December 1878.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Herbert John Haddan at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 5th December 1878.
HERBERT JOHN HADDAN, of the Firm of Herbert and Company, Solicitors of
Patents, of 67, Strand, in the City of Westminster, Civil Engineer. "IMPROVEMENTS
IN SEWING MACHINES." A communication from abroad by John Heberling, of Iowa
City, State of Iowa, United States of America.
The Invention has for its object to furnish a device for running stitch, shirring,
cording, and gathering, adapted to use for dress-makers, milliners, and others; and
it consists in the construction of a shirring, cording, and gathering machine provided
with a device to which a cord or reed can be attached to be run between two thick-
nesses of goods at the same time that a row of stitching is being run on each side
of it. The Invention consists of a running stitch shirring machine having a series
of intermeshing cogged wheels or pinions, together with the combination of a bodkin
or corder and a needle on each side thereof, said bodkin or corder and needles being
arranged in grooves of different depths in the pinions.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by.
the said Herbert John Haddan in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
23rd May 1879.
HERBERT JOHN HADDAN, of the Firm of Herbert and Company, Solicitors of
Patents, of 67, Strand, in the City of Westminster, Civil Engineer. "IMPROVEMENTS
IN SEWING MACHINES." A communication from abroad by John Heberling, of Iowa
City, State of Iowa, United States of America.
My Invention has for its object to furnish a device for running-stitch, shirring,
cording, and gathering, adapted to use for dress-makers, milliners, and others; and
it consists in the construction of a shirring, cording, and gathering machine provided
with a device to which a cord or reed can be attached to be run between two thick-
nesses of goods at the same time that a row of stitching is being run on each side
of it, as will be herein-after more fully set forth.
In order to enable others skilled in the art to which my Invention appertains to
make and use the same, I will now proceed to describe its construction and opera-
tion, referring to the annexed Drawing, in which,
Figure 1 is a perspective view of the entire machine.
Figure 2 is a similar view of a modification showing the upper pinions mounted
in separate bars.
Figures 3, 4, and 5 show detailed views of the sliding bar carrying the three a
pinions.
Figures 6 and 7 are detailed views of the machine, showing different modes of
mounting the pinions.
Figure 8 is a bottom view of the single bar carrying the three pinions.
Figure 9 is a detailed sectional view of the inner end of the main shaft, showing
the means for fastening its pinion therein.
Figure 10 shows a modification of the same.
Figure 11 shows the under side of the under end of the latch.
Figure 12 shows the needle; and
Figure 13 shows the bodkin.
A represents the base of the machine, on which is the frame B, supporting at one
end the table C, and the other end of the frame extending upward and then inward,
terminating in a head D over the table C in the usual manner.
In the table C is made a large opening, in which works a large cog or toothed
wheel F, placed upon a stud a, as shown. The opening in the table C is wide a
enough to admit of the wheel F being slipped off from the stud a for the pur-
pose of substituting another wheel of different sized cogs. The wheel F is held in
place on the stud by means of a latch G constructed in angular form, as shown, and
pivoted at one end to the table, and closing against a bar or rib G¹ on said table.
By throwing this latch G open the wheel can be removed from its stud.
The free end of the latch G is provided on its under side with a recess x to spring
over a pin or projection b on the table C for the purpose of locking the latch in
position and hold it in place when the machine is in operation, and thus more
securely confine the wheel F in place on the stud a.
I represents the main or driving-shaft provided at one end with the pulley or 4
band-wheel H, to which power may be imparted by belt, crank, or other suitable
means. On the inner end of the shaft I is secured a small pinion d, which is located
immediately above the rear portion of the wheel F, but not in contact or gear with
the same.
The inner end of the shaft I is reamed out or made hollow, and provided with a
transverse pin e, as shown in Figure 9. The pinion & is formed or provided with a
spindle d', which has on its inner end a tenon d² with notch i. The spindle d¹ fits
in the hollow end of the shaft I, the tenon d² passing at the side of the pin e, and
the notch i fitting on said pin so as to lock the pinion in position to the end of the
shaft.

page_text: This device, while it holds the pinion securely in its place, admits of the pinion
being easily removed when required.
In some cases the pinion may be provided with a screw spindle to be screwed
into the end of the shaft I, as shown in Figure 10.
Above the wheel F and pinion d are three pinions m, m', m³, which in operation
mesh therewith in the following manner:-The pinions m, m³, are on top of the
wheel F in front of the pinion d, and both meshing with said wheel. The pinion m'
in addition meshes with the pinion d, and thus motion is communicated from said
pinion & through the pinion m' to the wheel F, and from this wheel to the pinion m.
The pinion m is above and in rear of the pinion d, and meshes therewith.
All the three pinions may be mounted in the lower end of a single bar J, which
is vertically adjustable in a groove in the head; or the two pinions m, m², may be
mounted in one bar J', and the pinion m² in another bar J2, both of which are ver-
tically adjustable in the head D.
The bars J, J, and J2 may be arranged in various ways in the head D; for
instance, either bar may be provided on each side with grooves or cut-outs z, z, to
pass by the sides of screw-heads y, y, or their equivalents, secured in the head D
into the groove in the head; or one edge of the bar may be beveled, fitting in a
beveled groove in one side of the groove in the head, as shown at o. The bar is
then held at any point desired by means of one or more set screws K, which may
be arranged to pass through either the side or back of the head D. When passing
through the side of the head their inner ends enter a longitudinal groove n in the
edge of the bar. At the bottom of this groove is preferably made a transverse
groove n¹ for the purpose of admitting the ends of the set screws.
All the pinions and the wheel F are cut with three circumferential grooves at
suitable distances apart, that is to say, the cogs of the wheel and pinions have
transverse slots cut through them, as shown, and in these grooves are placed two
needles L, L, and a bodkin or corder P. The bodkin or corder is placed in the
centre groove, which preferably is made larger than the others and the needles in
the two side-grooves, and all of them are curved to pass over the pinion d, the ends
containing the eyes projecting a suitable distance in rear of said pinion.
The points of the needles L are in a line drawn through the axis of the wheel F
and that of the pinion m, while the end of the bodkin P extends forward in front
of the wheel. The pinion m has its circumferential grooves for the two needles cut
sufficiently deep to form continuous cylindrical surfaces at the bottom of the grooves,
thus giving a smooth surface for the point of each needle, so that under no circum-
stances can the needles catch during the work.
The needles being threaded and the bodkin having a cord or reed passed through
or attached to its eye, the goods to be shirred are folded and passed into the
machine, the end of the bodkin being inserted between the fold. As the goods pass
through between the cogged wheels the needles make the two running seams and
the bodkin leaves the cord or reed between the two seams, forming the shirring and
cording at the same time.
It will readily be seen that the bodkin can be dispensed with and the two needles
alone used to make shirring; or, if desired, one needle only can be used to make a
single seam of running stitch.
During the operation of the machine the top arm of the frame B yields or gives
upward to any renewed thickness, such as seams in the goods, so as to allow the
same to pass through between the wheels and the pinions.
The various wheels or pinions can be easily removed and exchanged for others.
The wheel F by opening the latch G, and the pinions by taking out the bars in
which they are mounted and other bars, are then substituted, carrying pinions of
different-sized cogs for making finer or coarser stitches.
Having thus fully described my Invention, what I claim as new and desire to
secure by Letters Patent is,-
1st. In a running-stitch shirring machine having a series of intermeshing cogged
wheels or pinions, the combination of a bodkin or corder of the form shown, and a

page_text: needle on each side thereof, as described, said bodkin or corder and needles being
arranged in grooves of different depth in the pinions, as set forth.
2nd. In a running-stitch shirring machine, the combination of the table C having
opening as described, the stud a, removable wheel F, and latch G, substantially as
and for the purposes herein set forth.
3rd. The pivoted latch G provided with the recess x in combination with the pin
or lug b on the table, for the purposes set forth.
4th. The combination of the hollow-ended shaft I with pin e, and the pinion d
with spindle d', having tenon d² with notch i, substantially as and for the purposes
herein set forth.
5th. The circumferentially grooved pinion m having its grooves cut sufficiently
deep to form smooth cylindrical surfaces at the bottoms thereof, as and for the pur-
poses herein set forth.
6th. The combination of the head D having screwheads or their equivalents y, the
bar carrying the pinions formed with the cut-outs z, and the set screw K, sub-
stantially as and for the purposes herein set forth.
7th. The bar carrying the pinions provided with the grooves n, n', in combination
with the head D and set screws K, for the purposes herein set forth.
In witness whereof, I, the said Herbert John Haddan, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Twentieth day of May, A.D. 1879.
TT T
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