SOME IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES
Year: 1862

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Charles Callebaut, of 2, Rue Sainte Appoline,
Paris, France, and of 4, South Street, Finsbury, London, for the
Invention of "SOME IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES."
Sealed the 5th September 1862, and dated the 21st April 1862.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Charles Callebaut at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 21st
April 1862.
I, CHARLES CALLEBAUT, of 2, Rue Sainte Appoline, Paris, France, and of
4, South, Street, Finsbury, London, do hereby declare the nature of my
Invention for "SOME IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES," to be as follows,
that is to say:-
My improvements are applicable to sewing machines, and the first part of
my Invention consists in the construction of a frame or machine for sewing.at
option transversally and longitudinally by means of a shaft placed under-
neath the machine, this frame forms one with the drawing hook and receives
its motion from two cams fixed to the shaft working the shuttle by pushing
forward a lever for, changing its action to the right or left, one of these cams
is placed in communication with the frame; a double spring moved by the

page_text: lever passes on the frame in a transversal and longitudinal direction, and two
screws serve to regulate the length of the stitch in either direction.
The second part of my Invention consists in an ungearing mechanism,
which I apply to the shaft working the drawer in order to change the direction
of the drawing mechanism, and cause the stuff to return on itself to produce
the superposed or stop stitches. This ungearing mechanism consists of a
bevil wheel on each side of which is set another bevil wheel, the two latter
being mounted on a horizontal driving shaft, this shaft is formed with a groove
to allow of the said wheels sliding longitudinally, one of the cog wheels only
gearing with that of the drawing mechanism. The driving shaft, turning
always in the same direction, if by means of a lever or handle one of the
wheels on the shaft is put in communication with the wheel which puts the
drawing mechanism in motion, the direction of rotation of the latter will be
altered and the article to be sewn will be allowed to return on itself.
The third part of my Invention, consists in replacing the handle of the
shuttle by a pinion catching into a double diameter wheel, carrying a cam
which at every two stitches gives a motion to the drawing hook in a transversal
direction, when the machine is set up for sewing in a longitudinal direction.
I obtain by this means the sock stitch.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Charles Callebaut in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 6th
October 1862.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, CHARLES
CALLEBAUT, of 2, Rue Sainte Appoline, Paris, France, and of 4, South Street,
Finsbury, London, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-first day of April, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-two, in the twenty-sixth year of
Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto
me, the said Charles Callebaut, Her special licence that I, the said Charles
Callebaut, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as 'I, the
said Charles Callebaut, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at
time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times theré-
after during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make,
use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and
any

page_text: Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention of "SOME
IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES," upon the condition (amongst others) that
I, the said Charles Callebaut, my executors or administrators, by an instru-
ment in writing under mine, or their; or one of their hands and seals, should
particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and
in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be
filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and
immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Charles Callebant, do hereby declare the
nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement thereof, reference being had to the accompanying Drawing and to
the letters and figures marked thereon, that is to say:—
My improvements are applicable to shuttle sewing machines, and the first
part of my Invention consists in the construction of a frame or mechanism
for sewing transversally and longitudinally at option by means of a shaft placed
underneath the machine; this frame forms one with the drawing hook or claw
and receives its motion from two cams fixed to the shaft working the shuttle;
by pushing forward a lever for changing its action to the right or left, one of
these cams is placed in communication with the frame, a double spring moved
by the lever presses on the frame in a transverse and longitudinal direction,
and two screws serve to regulate the length of the stitch in either
direction.
The second part of my Invention consists in an ungearing or reversing
mechanism, which I apply to the shaft working the drawer in order to change
the direction of the drawing mechanism and cause the stuff to return on itself
to produce the superposed' or stop stitches. This ungearing or reversing
mechanism consists of a bevil wheel on each side of which is set another bevil
wheel, the two latter being mounted on a horizontal driving shaft, this shaft is
formed with a groove to allow of the said wheels sliding longitudinally; one of
the cog wheels only gearing with that of the drawing mechanism, or a clutch
may be used for reversing tho motion: The driving shaft turning always
in the same direction, if by means of a lever or handle one of the wheels on
the shaft is put in communication with the wheel which puts the drawing
mechanism in motion, the direction of rotation of the latter will be altered
and the article to be sewn will be allowed to return on itself.
The third part of my Invention, consists in replacing the handle or crank
of the shuttle, by a pinion wheel catching into a wheel carrying a cam which

page_text: at each two stitches gives motion to the drawing hook or claw in a transversal
direction when the machine is set up for sewing in a longitudinal direction. I
obtain by this means the sock stitch.
To render my Invention better understood, I will now proceed to describe.
the same in reference to the accompanying Drawing, in which Fig. 1, 2, 3,
and 4, show the first part of my improvements. Figure 1 is a front view in
partial section of a sewing machine constructed according to my Invention;
Fig. 2 an end view; Fig. 3 a plan, taken underneath; Fig. 4 is a top view
of the change lever or lever for changing the direction of the feeder. Motion
is given to the needle carrier by a longitudinal shaft a, which by means of
bevil wheels b, b, transmits the motion to a vertical shaft c, (the wheels b, b,
may be replaced by other suitable mechanical means.) A crank d is keyed to
the lower end of the vertical shaft c and transmits motion to a connecting rod
e, which communicate it to the shuttle e', at the lower end of the shaft c are
also keyed two cams g and h, united together rotating in a slot in the frame i
which forms part of the feeder, the cam g serves to produce the feeding motion
in a longitudinal direction, and the cam h in a transverse direction. A third.
cam g' serves to give a vibratory motion to the feeder in order to make it.
relinquish or resume its pressure on the material. To change the direction
of the feeder, I employ a mechanism composed of a vertical shaft passing
through the table of the machine, and having at its upper part a handle q
fixed to a circular plate u, at the lower part of the shaft za spring carrier
is keyed, on which is fixed a double spring j, 1; the spring j serves for obtaining
a longitudinal seam and the spring a transverse seam. Fig. 3 shews in full
lines the mechanism arranged for sewing in a longitudinal direction, and in
dotted lines the mechanism for sewing in a transverse direction, thus it will
be understood that the united cams g and h, rotating in the frame i will
propel the feeder either in one direction or the other according to the position
of the frame, and the spring will bring back the frame when the cams have
ceased to act on it. If by means of the handle q I place one of the springs j
or in contact with the frame i, I obtain the feeding motion in one or other
of the said directions. Fig. 4 shews two arrows & and r, on the plate u, made
in the direction to be followed by the feeder. Two stops vand v', which may
be replaced by a thumb screw, serve to stop the play of the plate u in one
direction or the other, and the screws x and y serve to regulate the length of
the stitch in both directions.
The second part of my Invention, represented by Fig. 5, consists in causing
the material to be sewn to come back again so as to permit of superposing on

page_text: it, several stitches one over the other, by which means I prevent the seam;
from being unfastened. To obtain this result, the movements of the needle.
and shuttle remain the same, the motion of the feeder only must be reversed.
Fig. 5 shows the shaft a provided with a reversing clutch a' and two bevil
wheels band b', for putting in motion the vertical shaft c which carries at its
lower end the propelling cams k, a spur pinion d. is keyed on the extremity
of the shaft a, and gears into a wheel e which takes into a second pinion f, the
axis g of which passes through the frame of the machine and carries a bevil
wheel g' which works another bevil wheel mounted freely on the vertical
shaft c, and provided with a pin i to which is attached the connecting rod j
working tho shuttle. By this arrangement the rotatory motion of the bevil
wheel h and shaft a will give a suitable movement to the needle and shuttle.
If either of the bevil wheels b or 'be made to gear with the bevil wheel 6*
by moving the clutch a' by a lever, the direction of the rotation of the vertical
shaft c will be changed. The propelling cams k turning in a contrary direction
will cause the material to come back again, and by these means I can super-
pose as many stitches as desired, as this gearing movement may be changed in
one direction or the other instantaneously.
The third part of my Invention consists in obtaining a zig-zag or cross
stitch by means of the mechanical arrangement shown in Fig. 6, which is a
slight modification of that shown at Fig. 3, the crank is replaced by a pin B
fixed to a toothed wheel C mounted on the lower part of the shaft c. This
wheel cogs with a wheel D of double its diameter, on which is fixed a tappet E,
which at each revolution of the wheel D will give the frame the necessary
impulse for obtaining the zig-zag stitch. The frame i carries a prolonged
part F on which presses a pressure screw G, this screw in combination with
the screw will permit the length and width of the zig-zag stitch to be
regulated.
And having now described the nature of my said Invention, and the manner
of performing the same, I would observe that I do not confine myself to the
precise form or dimensions of the various mechanical parts herein-before
mentioned, nor to the materials employed for their construction, but what I
claim and desire to be protected, is,―
First, the general arrangement of the mechanism for changing instan-
taneously the direction in which the material to be sewn is fed, by means of
a lever as herein-before described & represented in Figures 1, 2, 3, & 4 of
the Drawing.
Secondly, the arrangement for causing the material to be sown to be

page_text: brought back to receive one or several superposed stitches and form a seam
not susceptible to be unfastened, as herein-before described and represented in
Fig. 5 of the Drawing.
Thirdly, the arrangement for obtaining a cross or zig-zag stitch as herein-
before described and shown in Fig. 6.
In witness whereof, I, the said Charles Callebaut have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Twenty-seventh day of September, in the
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-two.
C. CALLEBAUT, AINE. (L.S.)