IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY TO BE USED FOR MANUFACTURING SHOES AND BOOTS
Year: 1856

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Constant Jouffroy Duméry, of Paris, in the Empire
of France, Civil Engineer, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN
MACHINERY TO BE USED FOR MANUFACTURING SHOES AND BOOTS"
Sealed the 15th August 1856, and dated the 18th June 1856.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Constant Jouffroy Duméry
at the, Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
13th June, 1856.
I, CONSTANT JOUFFROY DUMERY, of Paris, in the Empire of France, Civil
Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN MACHINERY TO BE USED FOR MANUFACTURING SHOES AND BOOTS," to be as
follows:-
This Invention has for object the manufacturing of boots & shoes, & that
by series of mechanical operations. The 1st operation is to stretch the leather
upon the tree, &c., to put together in a temporary manner the different parts
of the boot or shoe to be made. The machinery employed to effect this opera-
tion is shewn in Sheets 1 & 2. Fig. 1 is the front view; Fig. 2, the side view;
Fig. 3 is another side view; Figs. 4, 5, & 6 are details. The same letters
represent the same parts in the different Figures. The operation is performed
by the aid of two oval rings D & E, moving on one another at right angles, so
that the form placed in the interior ring may be brought to the positions
required. The same ring is provided with clutches II, having gearing G; the

page_text: latter pull the clutches & makes them stretch the upper leather. The frame
has attached to it the contrivance K, which serves to bring the leather over
the first sole; this being done, the upper leather is nailed to the 1st sole.
The second series of operations is made in order to fix on the outer sole of
the boot or shoe by means of screws. The machine effecting this is shown
in Sheets 3, 4, 5, 6. Fig. 1, Sheet 3, is a side elevation of Fig. 2; Sheet 4 is
a plan of the upper part; Fig. 3, Sheet 5, is a side view; Fig. 4, Sheet 6,
is a vertical central section, parallel to the elevation, Sheet 3, Fig. 1. This
machine has for object to unite the outer sole to the boot or shoe by screws;
but to firmly fix headless screws, the leather must first be compressed. The
machine is composed of two distinct parts; the lower one A is to be considered
as fixed, the upper one C is moveable. It is between these two parts that the
boot or shoc is placed, & it is the upper part C that gives the pressure. While
the workman effects the pressure, by pedals C' acting on the upper part C, the
holes are pierced, and the screws are inserted by means of two vertical shafts,
one of which F is provided with an awl, the other F' with pincers to hold the
screw. These shafts alternately shift their positions, & are attached to the
upper portion C* of the machine. The lower framework is provided with a
multiple tree or form.
The third machine is used to nip the screw that happens to protrude; for
this it is furnished with nippers.
The fourth machine is used for the manufacture of heels, & is composed of
two parts; the first part unites temporarily the different thicknesses of leather
by glueing them together, & the 2nd part shapes them according to deter-
minate proportions.
The scale of the Drawings is ...
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Constant Jouffroy Duméry in the Great Seal Patent Office
on the 10th December 1856.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, CONSTANT
JOUFFROY DUMERY, of Paris, in the Empire of France, Civil Engineer, send
greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Thirteenth day of June, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and fifty-six, in the nineteenth year of Her reign, did,
for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the said Con-

page_text: stant Jouffroy Dumery, Her special licence that I, the said Constant Jouffroy
Dumery, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the
said Constant Jouffroy Dumery, my executors, administrators, and assigns,
should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all
times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might
make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain
and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for
"IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY TO BE USED FOR MANUFACTURING SHOES AND BOOTS,"
upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said Constant Jouffroy Dumery,
my executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their,
or one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the
nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be per-
formed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within
six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters
Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Constant Jouffroy Dumery, do hereby
declare the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to
be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement:-
This Invention relates to the manufacture of shoes with screws without
heads, which manufacture is conducted by means of a series of different
machines constructed according to my Invention. The first is a machine for
arranging and fitting the parts of the shoe to the last; the second, for cam-
bering the third, to complete the screwing; the fourth, the cutting of the
screw shanks; the fifth, the pressing of the heel; the sixth, the turning of the
heel. The description of these six machines I will give in regular order and
succession.
;
In
1st, of the mounting and arranging or fitting the materials on the last.
the art of shoemaking the operation of mounting or fitting is the most difficult,
the most important, and upon which depends not only the immediate success,
but also all the beneficial use and durability of a shoe. To mount and arrange
the parts of the shoe perfectly in the centre or body of the last, and to stretch
uniformly and sufficiently all the parts of the vamp in the front, that is to say,
stretch properly and perfectly the longitudinal elasticity of the leather; such
are the essential necessities that the setting or fitting of a boot or shoe on the
It further requires that the angles at
last requires to produce the best result.
the ends of the vamp and round the heel required to be turned in, so as to
prevent any mark of a fold on the exterior, and to stretch and attach the
leather, and so as to entirely avoid all kinds of incision. This machine of my

page_text: Invention, and of which I desire the exclusive use & property, supplies all
these conditions. It consists of a fixed standard or frame I, having a step
bearing in the lower part, and having a bearing at the upper part, between
which the two pivots of a large eliptical or oblong frame is sustained, having a
vertical axis on which it has rotary motion. This large cliptical frame has, at
about the middle of its height, to each of its two arms bearings, which receive
the trunions or pivots of a smaller cliptical or oblong frame, mounted in the
large one, and having rotary motion on its axis, which is at right angles to the
axis of the large frame. Thus we have a fixed frame, a large vertical oblong
frame pivoted on a vertical axis, and a small eliptical frame pivoted on a
horizontal axis sustained in the larger one. At the centre of this frame E the
last is placed, and a part of the mechanism serving to keep in tension the soft
parts of the shoe is also carried by this smaller frame; it is arranged so that
one of the extremities of the frame E carries two arbors parallel to its axis.
Round these arbors or shafts is arranged click & spring work, serving to put
in motion flexible tractors, each bearing toothed pincers, which take hold of
the edges of the vamp to exert tractive force on the leather in the direction of
the periphery of the foot. The longitudinal traction or pulling for mounting
the fronts is cflected by a very simple and eflacious means, viz, by cutting
the support or bearing wheel which carries the last at that part immediately
next the heel. The vamp is placed obliquely in the direction of the length of
the last, and the extremity of the vamp is fixed on to the first sole by means
of small nails, and by means of a cramp or clasp, which forces the quarter to
pass up the inclined plane to stretch tho quarter and vamp in the direction of
its length. This passing on to the inclined plane is effected by a kind of shoc-
horn, which has been previously introduced between the last and the quarter,
and which is provided with gripping parts, which permit the shoc-horn to
perform its work, or to be drawn out by the aid of click and spring work, before
mentioned. The vamp so stretched in the direction of the length and width
of the shoe now requires to be turned over on the first sole. This operation
is also accomplished by similar click and spring work to that before mentioned,
but the mechanism of which that effects this part of the operation is placed at
the lower part, supported by the fixed frame of the machine, and by the aid of
straps passing over pulleys and drums, acts, by the pressure of the foot on the
treadles that impart the action required, to effect the turning over of the
leather on to the first sole. For that purpose the rods of the pincers are rigid,
and it is by their clasping the leather at the lower part of its breadth that the
turning over is effected for one of the sides of the shoe. For the second side
the large frame D is caused to describe a half revolution, and I operate in

page_text: the same manner with regard to this second side as for the first. Each pincer
is set in motion by a special treadle, that can be separately detached if required,
and which may also be set at liberty at the same time as all the others when
the work is terminated. The operation of chasing or turning in the extremity
of the vamp presents great difficulties, and requires incisions and the cutting
off a part of the material. These irregularities of the material produce folds,
which often leave marks on the exterior of the shoc, and which entirely
prevent the perfection of its outline. I believe the machine for this purpose
is brought to such a degree of perfection that it will be possible by its applica-
tion to avoid all alterations of the vamp, all removal or carrying away of
leather, and also to produce a true and complete chasing or turning over.
For this purpose I have added two jointed pieces to the fixed frame, carrying a
special mechanism, moving from right to left on a segment of a circle, and
presenting consequently in all directions an auxillary pincer gripping the
leather between its two jaws. When the leather is tightened between the
two jaws of the pincers, a pressure is exerted on the last by means of a lever,
and the leather takes the required form without producing folds or plaits.
The vamp is then nailed to the first sole in the space provided for that
purpose.
DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS.
Sheet 1 Figure 1 side elevations of a machine to arrange or set the parts
of the shoe on the last; Figure 2, a front elevation; Figure 3, a plan of the
same; and Figure 4, detached view of the small cliptical frame. Figure 5,
sections of the lower click and spring apparatus; Figure 6, lever and pincer
for chasing the extremities; Figure 7, column for exerting the pressure. In
all the Figures the same reference letters denote the same parts where they
recur in Sheet 1. A, bed plate or foundation; B, fixed frame; C, lower
bearing; D, large eliptical frame; E, small cliptical frame; F, last; G, lever
arms for producing the tension of the leather; II, pincers for producing the
tension on the leather; I, pincers for holding the quarter J for exerting
pressure on the first sole; K, lateral pulling cords; L, straps; M, combs for
the direction of the horizontal traction; N, treadles for producing the hori-
zontal traction, provided with ratchet and click and spring work; N', special
clicks for each pedal; N", click for general stoppage; O, treadle or bolt to
fix the large eliptical frame; O', bolt to stop the small eliptical frame; P,
chase for the extremities of the shoe; P, pincer in which the vamp is held,
and from which it may be slid out with a slight friction; P", lever, by which
the pincer P is forced to slide on the sole, to apply the chased leather in
of the shoe on the last; Figure 2, a front elevation; Figure 3, a plan of the
same; and Figure 4, detached view of the small eliptical frame. Figure 5.
sections of the lower click and spring apparatus; Figure 6, lever and pincer
for chasing the extremities; Figure 7, column for exerting the pressure. In
all the Figures the same reference letters denote the same parts where they
recur in Sheet 1. A, bed plate or foundation; B, fixed frame; C, lower
bearing; D, large eliptical frame; E, small cliptical frame; F, last; G, lever
arms for producing the tension of the leather; II, pincers for producing the
tension on the leather; I, pincers for holding the quarter J for exerting
pressure on the first sole; K, lateral pulling cords; L, straps; M, combs for
the direction of the horizontal traction; N, treadles for producing the hori-
zontal traction, provided with ratchet and click and spring work; N', special
clicks for each pedal; N", click for general stoppage; O, treadle or bolt to
fix the large eliptical frame; O', bolt to stop the small eliptical frame; P,
chase for the extremities of the shoe; P, pincer in which the vamp is held,
and from which it may be slid out with a slight friction; P", lever, by which
the pincer P is forced to slide on the sole, to apply the chased leather in

page_text: proportion as it is disengaged from the pincer; Q, part of circle or circular
guide, to conduct the chase P alternately before each angle of the end; R,
jointed books for fixing the whole in the cliptical frame; S, the part that
forms the heel. The principal points which characterize this machine are,
1st, the setting or fixing the first solo by means of pressure; 2nd, the appli-
cation of click and spring work for the purposes of this machine; 3rd, the
pincers with rigid rods to permit the turning over of the leather; 4th, the
lateral pulling for turning over the edges of the vamp; 5th, the inclined plane
for the setting or forming of anterior part; 6th, the chasing of the extremities
of the shoc; 7th, the turning over of the quarter and of the heel.
Second machine.-The second machine that I use according to my In-
vention serves for cambering the soles, and consists of an hydraulic press.
After the shoe is set or fixed on the last the exterior sole is to be added to it,
which is effected by the aid of a machine to be herein-after described. But in
order that the sole itself may be suited to its place, it must be previously
prepared to give it its camber, and the thickness of a false sole for the double
shoe. This operation is commonly done by immersing the sole in water to
soften it, and in then submitting it to the bending or cambering, by means of
of a smoothing tool, which is rubbed over the sole. In this operation the
leather looses by the softening all the properties it had received from the
hammering. I avoid this inconvenience by uniting, pasting, and cambering
the sole by means of an hydraulic press. These processes are performed
simply thus: The hydraulic press is an instrument now so well known that
it is unnecessary to represent it in the Drawings, a description being quite
sufficient to render the process intelligible. It is suflicient to represent a
mould in two pieces, having in one of its parts the convexity of the sole sunk
therein, and having on its counterpart the hollow of the sole in relief, in such
manner that in submitting one or several soles to pressure between the two
parts they take the form of the mould. Several blocks or moulds are placed
one upon the other under the hydraulic press, and a pressure is exerted on
them for some minutes, when the press can be released and the moulds re-
filled. What I consider new under this head consists in the cambering or
moulding the soles (in a dry state) by means of great pressure, which improves
the quality of the leather instead of deteriorating it, as is the case according to
the present mode of bending or cambering.
The third machine, by the aid of which I make a shoe, is intended to join
or unite the exterior sole to the vamp. It has for its object to act on the
organs of the machine, so as to exercise the pressure which effects the im
mediate junction of the leathers, to perforate the holes in which the screws

page_text: are to be introduced, to cause the issue of the screw from the reserve which
encloses it, to secure the screw by rivetting the extremity, and, lastly, to sup-
port the sides of the camber during the operation of screwing. In order that
these different operations may be applied to all kinds of shoes, whatever may
be their nature, their form, or their sizes, I have at first recourse to a central
picce, which I term a spider, on account of its structure, and which is no other
than a substitute for the last. It is divided into several parts, cut and grooved
in such a manner that it can be introduced into and applied to all the interior
parts of the shoes. This spider is mounted on an axis or spindle, which
permits it to take a rotary motion that can be used to introduce successively
into the boot or shoe cach one of its six arms of which it is composed; a
plate divided equally into six divisions, and in each of which a bolt is engaged,
and put in action by a treadle, serving to fix the spider in each of the six
positions it must take in making a shoe, and thus assimilate each arm of the
spider when in use to an integral part of the fixed frame, any one of the
spider arms being considered as the lower part of a pincer, or vice, or a press.
The upper part or jaw of this press should be of a C form, having its back
part sliding in the fixed frame, and the lower limb passing under the machine
to be attached to a treadle to put it in action. It is on the upper limb or part
of this of C frame that the mechanism is mounted which perforates the holes,
supplies, conducts, and inserts the screws, and also rivets them in their place.
Each extremity of the spider arms are solid, and provided with a block of very
hard tempered steel. The upper and opposed extremity of the arm, which gives
the pressure, has a hole perforated for the passago of the drill and of the helix or
screw. From above this perforated arm the drill or the screws are alternately
introduced. The drill and the screw are carried by a small moveable swinging
frame supported on pivots at one side, forming a vertical axis, on which it has a
swinging motion, to bring the drill or the screw quickly over the hole in C
This swinging frame is carried by the large sliding frame C, whose upper
extremity is prolonged, so as to bear at the same time the mechanism of the
helix supplier, and all the parts for transmitting motion. The drill stock is
composed of a tube, which has a vertical motion, having a constant tendency
to rise by the force of a spiral spring enclosed in a copper covering. In this
tube is placed the drill stock, which can rise and lower, & by means of a grooved
pulley has imparted to it a rotary motion of two thousand five hundred turns
a minute. The carrier of the helix has not only a swinging motion, a vertical
motion, and rotary motion, the same as the drill, but it has, in addition to
those motions horizontal motion, an opening and shutting motion of the
pincer, and also the facility of resting, notwithstanding the continuation of the

page_text: shuts and takes hold of it. To shut the pincer to hold the screw, it is
sufficient to cause a little rocking motion, that is to say, to elevate the lever,
which forces the inclined plane of the socket of the pincer to descend upon
and shut it.
By the motion of the swinging frame the screw is conducted to the position
of the perforated hole, and in this state it is caused to descend by giving it a
helical motion. For this purpose, I place on the side of the swinging frame a
stop or obstacle, which opposes itself to the descent of the apparatus, by
resisting vertically, and which does not permit its escape except when the
exterior barrel describes an angular, transverse, or swinging motion, which has
for its result to close the ring of the split collar forming the nut of the helical
conductor; it is then that the screw descends, and is introduced into all the
thicknesses of the leather to unite and fix them together. When the point
of the screw reaches the anvil block of tempered steel on the extremity
of the spider arm, the forco it has produces the flattening of the thread of
the screw and forms the rivit; the pulley, whose break regulates the force,
then turns alone without its shaft. I then produce by the handle of the
pincer, in horizontal and vertical planes, the two opposite motions, that is
to say, to release the screw which has been inserted, and open the collar,
which completes the work of inserting a screw. It is by a sliding rod pushed
in the outer ring of the split collar that produces the movement of the collar
without requiring any special action of the hand. This operation is repeated
as many times as there are screws to place round the sole until the cambering
is arrived at. If the shoe has its sides very prominent, and the pressure be
sufficiently oblique, so that the shoe will pass under the anvils of the spider
until they approach one of the jointed side pieces or frames, and engage in the
groove of the horizontal anterior slide, so that in pressing upon one of the
treadles corresponding to this motion, the transmitting rods serve to tighten
the parts, so as to join and form the three sides of a triangle, which prevents
their slipping.
Like the drill stock and the screw carrier, which are elevated by springs, all
the mechanism carried by the C sliding frame is elevated equally by springs of
such kind that the treadles have only the pressure to exercise.
EXPLANATION OF SHEETS 2 AND 3.
Figure 1, a side elevation; Figure 2, plan; Figure 3, front elevation;
Figure 4, longitudinal section on lines 5, 10, and y, z, Figure 2.
section of the screw carrier of the pincer and of the split collar;
Figure 5,
Figure 6,

page_text: horizontal section of the split collar. In these two Sheets the same letters
indicate the same parts where they recur in the several Figures.
1. A, the fixed frame; B, spider; B', dividing plate; B", axle of the spider;
B, treadle and bolt of the spider; b, articulated anvil for the camber; C,
moveable vertical frame; C', treadle and straps to communicate motion to the
frame C; C", pressing head or beak; D, swinging frame, moving round on a
vertical axis; E, socket, sliding vertically; E', spindle of the drill stock; E",
pulley of the drill stock; E, pulley, putting in action the drill stock; F,
barrel, sliding vertically and bearing the axis of the pincer carrier; F', axis
of the pincer carrier; F", pulley to set in motion the carrier of the pincer;
G, pincer; G', barrel or socket of the pincer; G", acting arm of the pincer;
G', small table to receive the screw; II, exterior. box or ring of the split
collar; H', coupling box conductor; I", rod joining the vertical barrel to the
box H; H", click and stop; I, break plate; I', nut of the break; I", spring
of the break; J, exterior cylinder of the reservoir containing screws; J',
interior cylinder of the reservoir; J", screw regulator and conductor of the
reservoir J, wheel of click and spring work actuating the reservoir; K,
retaining treadles of the camber; K', crank arms for transmitting the action
of the treadle to the horizontal slide; K", horizontal slide, in which are
engaged at will one or other of pivoted arms K"; K, oscillating arms, bearing
the centre of apparatus k for pressing the camber; %, fulcrum of the parts
for sustaining the cambering.
.
The principal parts of this machine are, 1st, the substitution of what I term
the spider for the last, and the possibility with these divisions or parts of making
all kinds, forms, and sizes of shoes & boots; 2nd, the forced entrance produced
by the axis of the screwing apparatus; 3rd, the work being kept constantly
normal to the curve of the sole during the operation of perforating and the
introduction of the screw; 4th, the pressure exercised by an organ appertain-
ing to the machine; 5th, the principle of conducting helically the screw by the
screwed conductor and the split ring; 6th, the arresting of the rod in spite of
the rotations of the pulley; 7th, the limit of the frictional pressure exerted on
the rod by means of the friction break and spring; 8th, the supply or reservoir
of the screw rods or screws; 9th, the pressure produced by the three sides of
a triangle for the cambering; 10th, the articulation of the anvil in cambering.
Fourth Machine. The fourth machine serves to cut off the ends of the
screws: after they are inserted. This machine consists of a lower slide, having
an acting and reacting vertical motion produced by an eccentric on the ond
of a shaft. This slide carries the blade or lower knife of the cutting nipper.

page_text: Figure 1 is a front elevation of the machine for nipping off the ends of
the screws; Figure 2, a side elevation, and Figure 3, a vertical section of the
same from back to front.
A is the main fixed frame, and L its supports; B, slide carrying the moveable
nipper; C, fixed nipper or cutting tool; C', nipper or cutting tool, fixed to B;
D, shaft; D', eccentric on the end of shaft D, D; E, bearing block on eccen-
tric D', giving motion to the slide; F, adjusting screw of stationary nipper C;
G, bolt for fixing C; I, bolt for fixing cutter or nipper C' when adjusted by
set screw in slide B; K, internal stop, against which the end of the screw
abuts; J, J, fast and loose pulley, and for giving or arresting the motion by a
driving strap.
EXPLANATION OF SHEETS 5 AND 6.
Sheet 5 Figure 1 is a front elevation of a machine used for pressed beels;
Figure 2, side view of the same.
Sheet 6 Figure 3, lateral vertical section of the same machine used for
pressing the heels; Figure 4, longitudinal section of a shoe made with screws
without heads; Figure 5, an underneath plan; and Figure 6, a section of the
In these three first Figures the same letters refer to the same parts
where they recur.
A, frame; B, pressing screw; C, C', D, D', E, and F, is toothed gear, trans-
mitting the motion from the motive pulley to the pressing screw; I, II, II",
friction rollers, reversing the motion, in order to make the screw turn to the
right or to the left, according as I or II" is put in contract; I, treadles
with return straps for producing the contact of the friction rollers; J,
large ring, having twenty-four openings or pressing chambers to receive the
moulds; J', openings or chambers in which the pressure is exerted; K,
stoppers or plugs around the upper part of the frame, to give the pressure of
the screw to the moulds; L, horse-shoe cam, to maintain the pressure after
the screw rises up; M, lever, to stop the opening in the ring in front of the

page_text: point of pressure; N, crank handle, to throw the driving gear of the ring of
the press into communication with the bevil wheels; O, supports of all the
parts of apparatus; P, spindle, on which the press ring J turns; R, block,
composed of pieces of leather in process of being pressed.
The principal features of this machine arc, 1st, the free pressure on the
exterior; 2nd, the guides and supports for the leather by interior openings;
3rd, the permanent multiplied and successive pressures; 4th, tho reversing
motion produced by the friction of two rollers.
Sixth Machine. This machine has for its objects the turning of the heel.
The blocks of leather after leaving the press are irregular in their circum-
ference; it is then necessary to deprive them of all excess of material, so as to
leave only what is necessary for their definite form, which is that of an irregular
truncated cone with a plain surface. I proceed as follows:-The heel is placed
between two moulds, having externally the form of a heel; these two moulds
are mounted on spindles, which can at will be caused to recede from or
approach the one or the other of the moulds, in order to press the heel and
maintain a great pressure, while at the same time it can turn with the moulds.
Thus placed, a knife blade is lowered, which is preceded and followed by two
smooth parts rubbing on the guides or circular moulds; during this time the
blade cuts off all the superfluous leather, according as the moulds are caused
to turn and pass over the knife. The knife acts in the manner of a box plane.
When the circular part is thus finished, the first knife is raised up, when a
second knife of a gouge form is lowered; this moves in a slide groove while
the beel remains fixed. For the circular part the heel turns a little distance
at every motion of the fixed knife, whereas for the plane part the knife is
used as in a metal planning machine. Every knife bearer is fitted or articu-
lated with the ball and socket, in order to take all the positions for the motion
required.
Figure 1, front clevation of a heel-forming machine; Figure 2, end eleva-
tion of the same; Figure 3, plan. In these 8. Figures the same letters
indicate the same parts where they recur.
A, frame; B, exterior turning moulds or mandrils; B', spring, for drawing
back the mandrils; C, tool for making the plain side of the heel; D, external
rod of a rack, opposed to a fixed point, in order to advance the cutting blade
by by means of an internal screw nut; E, wheel, moved by hand in order to
tightening the pressure of the screw; F, spur gear, communicating motion from
the fly-wheel to the screw G; G, screw for pressing the leathers; II, tool or
plane iron for cutting the round part of the heel; I, treadle, setting in the motion

page_text: the ratchet J, which gives rotary motion to the mandril during the working of
knife; J, ratchet, giving notion to the two mandrils simultaneously by the
straps; J', J", J", fly-wheel, moved by hand, to give motion to force the
mandrels towards each other; L, supports of the frame.
The features of this machine are, 1st, the simultaneous motion imparted to
the two shafts; 2nd, the joining or adjusting from the centre of the heels;
3rd, the turning of the heels by means of turning moulds; 4th, the plane or
blade for cutting the circular part; 5th, the slide for the knife carrier, forming
the plain part; 6th, the ball and socket joint for the motion of the levers
carrying the knives in all directions.
In the boot or shoe that I make, the vamp is placed between two soles and
the whole fixed together by means of screws without heads, the leathers having
been previously pressed, and afterwards to cut off the excess of material of the
screw, or the material, being then levelled with the sole.
EXPLANATION OF FIGURES 4, 5, AND 6, SHEET 6.
A, first sole receiving the ends of the screws; B, external sole; C, vamp;
D, heel; E, screw of the sole; F, screw of the heel.
Having described the nature of my Invention, and the manner in which the
same may be performed, I wish it to be understood that what I claim as my
Invention, and to be protected by the herein-before in part recited Letters
Patent, is,
First, the manufacture by machinery shoes and boots, in which the parts are
connected by screws which have the thread or helix throughout their length,
and without heads, and by which the parts are held together, such as herein-
before described and represented in the Drawings annexed, or any mero
mechanical equivalents for the parts of such machinery.
Secondly, the use and application of the machine described and represented
in Sheet 1, for the purposes of shoe and boot making, as described.
Thirdly, I claim the use of the hydraulic press for the purpose of bending or
cambering the soles, as herein-before described.
Fourthly, I claim the use and application of the machinery or apparatus
described with reference to and represented in Sheets 2 and 3, for the pur-
poses of making shoes and boots, as herein-before described.
Fifthly, I claim the use and application of the machinery, constructed as
described and represented in Sheet 4, for the purpose of cutting the ends of
the screws, as herein-before described.
Sixthly, I claim the use and application of the machine or apparatus

page_text: described and represented as Figures 1, 2, and 3, in Sheets 5 and 6; also
the machine or apparatus represented in Sheet 7, for the purpose of forming
the heels of shoes and boots, all as herein-before described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Constant Jouffroy Duméry, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, this Eighth day of December, One thousand
eight hundred and fifty-six.
C. J. DUMERY. (L.S.)