IMPROVEMENTS IN LOOMS FOR WEAVING, AND IN MEANS OR APPARATUS TO BE EMPLOYED IN CONNECTION THEREWITH
Year: 1871

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Fleury Claudius Gautier, of Halifax, in the
County of York, Designer, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN
LOOMS FOR WEAVING, AND IN MEANS OR APPARATUS TO BE EMPLOYED IN
CONNECTION THEREWITH."
"
Sealed the 12th May 1871, and dated the 23rd February 1871.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Fleury Claudius Gautier
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition,
on the 23rd February 1871.
I, FLEURY CLAUDIUS GAUTIER, of Halifax, in the County of York,
Designer, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "Iк-
PROVEMENTS IN LOOMS FOR WEAVING, AND IN MEANS OR APPARATUS TO BE
EMPLOYED IN CONNECTION THEREWITH," to be as follows:-
This Invention relates to looms and means or apparatus for weaving
Turkish carpets, French plush or chenille carpets, Brussels carpets in

page_text: velvet, and velvet on one side with tapestry on the other, damasks with
figured velvet or reps or other fabrics required to be woven in design,
pattern, or figure.
"
For this purpose I employ a reed hinged at its bottom edge so as to
be capable of turning forward with the top edge upon the warp to
assist in the introduction of the figure weft or yarn to form the design,
or I may employ a portable reed or comb for thise purpose. I also
employ a series of needles arranged and fixed side by side in or upon
a board or plate, and I have a series or number of such needle boards
or plates each or some of the needles of which I supply with yarn
in suitable colour according to an arranged design. And the said
boards are arranged in order according to the said design. With each
needle board I may have a bobbin or roller to contain a supply of
yarn for the said needles, or the said boards may be used without
bobbins.
In the weaving or production of plush fabrics I arrange and work
the warp by healds or heddles as for ordinary plain twill or satin
weaving, or I may employ jacquard apparatus if a figured ground be
required. A portion of the ground being woven, I then open the shed or
raise those warp threads upon which the design is to be produced by the
various coloured yarns, and I insert the needles of the proper board into
or between the said warp threads close in front of the reed when it is
turned with its top part upon the warp, thé projecting ends of yarn
resting upon the edge of reed, the eyes of the needles forming loops
of the yarn under the said warp threads; a crochet needle or hooked
wire is then passed betwixt the said warp threads, and the loops of
design yarn by means of which a thread of weft is drawn through
the said shed. With the slay board, lay, or batten, I then beat up the
said yarn and weft and by means of an ordinary shuttle introduce one,
two, or more shoots of weft changing the shed each shoot. The coloured
yarn being thus secured in the warp, I then cut off the projecting ends
of the design yarn by means of a revolving circular knife or pair of sucli
knifes mounted in a carriage or box caused to slide or move on a rail
or bed which is hinged to the loom frame so as to be capable of being
readily turned into proper position across the fabric to effect the cutting,
and which after the cutting is effected can be turned out of the way
again. Formed on or attached to the said rail is a rack for a toothed

page_text: wheel of the carriage to gear in, and this wheel by means of a train of
toothed wheels gives rapid rotary motion to the said knife or knives
when the carriage is moved on the rail; or instead of a revolving
knife or knives I may employ a pair of shears capable of being
travelled along the rail or bed and operated thereby or by hand; or I
may use a grooved guide rod and a hand knife for the purpose of cutting
off the projecting yarn.
For weaving reps or tapestry I proceed as in the case described,
but also I pass the eyes of the needles through the grooved warp threads
and from loops of the design yarn underneath them, through which loops
for reps I pass weft threads, or for tapestry I pass wires which are
afterwards withdrawn leaving the tapestry on the under surface and
velvet on the top.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Fleury Claudius Gautier in the Great Scal Patent
Office on the 23rd August 1871.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, FLEURY
Claudius GAUTIER, of Halifax, in the County of York, Designer, send
greeting.
.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Twenty-third day of February, in the
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-one, in the
thirty-fourth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors,
give and grant unto me, the said Fleury Claudius Gautier, Her special
licence that I, the said Fleury Claudius Gautier, my executors, admi-
nistrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Fleury Claudius
Gautier, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time
agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter
during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use,
excrcise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and
Ircland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "
"IM
PROVEMENTS IN LOOMS FOR WEAVING, AND IN MEANS OR APPARATUS TO BE
EMPLOYED IN CONNECTION THEREWITH," upon the condition (amongst
.

page_text: others) that I, the said Fleury Claudius Gautier, iny executors or admi-
nistrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of their
hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of
the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed,
and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within t
six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said
Letters Patent.
"
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Fleury Claudius Gautier, do hereby
declare the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same
is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and 1
by the following statement and accompanying Sheet of Drawings (that
is to say):-
This Invention relates to looms and means or apparatus for weaving
Turkish carpets, French plush or chenille carpets, Brussels carpets
in velvet, and velvet on one side with tapestry on the other, damasks 1
with figure velvet or reps, or other fabrics required to be woven in
design, pattern, or figure.
For this purpose I employ a reed hinged at its bottom edge so as
to be capable of turning forward with the top edge upon the warp to
assist in the introduction of the figure weft or yarn to form the
design, or I may employ a portable reed or comb for this purpose. I
also employ a series of needles arranged and fixed side by side in or
upon a board or plate, and I have a series or number of such
needles, boards, or plates, each or some of the needles of which I
supply with yarn in suitable colour, according to an arranged design,
and the said boards are arranged in order according to the said design.
With cach needlo board I may have a bobbin or roller to contain a
supply of yarn for the said needles, or the said boards may be used
without bobbins.
In the weaving or production of plush fabrics I arrange and work
the warp by healds or heddles as for ordinary plain twill or satin
weaving, or I may employ jacquard apparatus if a figured ground
be required. A portion of the ground being woven I then open the
shed or raise those warp threads upon which the design is to bo
produced by the various colored yarns, and I insert the needles of
the proper board into or between the said warp threads close in front
of the reed when it is turned with its top part upon the warp, the

page_text: projecting ends of yarn resting upon the edge of the reed and the
eyes of the needles forming loops of the yarn under the said warp
threads. A crotchet or shuttle needle or looked wire is then passed
betwixt the said warp threads and the loops of design yarn, by means
of which a thread of weft is drawn through the said shed. With
thic slay board, lay, or batten I then beat up the said yarn and weft,
and by means of an ordinary shuttle introduce one, two, or more
shoots of weft, changing the shed cach shoot. The colored yarn
being thus secured in the warp I then cut off the projecting ends
of the design yarn by means of a revolving circular knife or pair
of such knives mounted in a carriage or box caused to slide or move
on a rail or bed which is hinged to the loom frame so as to be
capable of being readily turned into proper position across the fabric
to effect the cutting, and after the cutting is effected can be turned
out of the way again. Formed on or attached to the said rail is a
rack for a toothed wheel of the carriage to gear in, and this wheel
by means of a train of toothed wheels gives rapid rotary motion to
the said knife or knives when the carriage is moved on the rail; or
instead of a revolving knife or knives I may employ a pair of shears
capable of being travelled along the rail or bed and operated thereby
or by hand, or I may use a grooved guide rod and a hand knife for the
purpose of cutting off the projecting yarn.
For weaving reps or tapestry I proceed as in the case described,
but also I pass the cycs of the needles through the ground warp threads
and form loops of the design yarn underneath them, through which
loops for reps I pass weft threads, or for tapestry I pass wires which are
afterwards withdrawn, leaving the tapestry on the under surface and
velvet on the top.
In order that this Invention may be clearly understood I have
herein given reference to one accompanying Sheet of Drawings of such
parts of a loom and apparatus to be used in connection therewith
as are necessary for shewing and describing the manner in which the
said Invention is performed or carried into practical operation.
Fig. 1 is a front elevation; Fig. 2 is a plan; Figs. 3 and 4 are cross
sections; and Figs. 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9 are details.
A is the framework; B, the breast bean or the roller over which
the woven fabric passes; C is the slay board, lay, or batten, suspended

page_text: on arms D from the top of the framework; E is the reed, which
is hinged or rests in a groove formed in the slay board and in another
groove of the hand rail F, as shown in Fig. 4, and capable of having
the top edge turned forward upon the warp G, as shewn in Fig. 3.
The curved bars H are guides for the reed in its movement from
one position to the other, and the front edge of the reeds or dents
nre formed prominent to enable them to maintain the warp threads
perfectly separate from each other. I are a scries of needles fixed
at suitable distances apart upon a board, or plate, J, shewn at
Figs. 5 and 6 full size. These needles have eyes at each end to
contain the figure yarn, and to pass through when introducing same
into the warp to be interwoven therewith, and each board or plato
may be provided with a roller,or bobbin to hold the said yarn, as
shewn at Fig. 7. K is a grooved guide hinged to a bracket L fixed
to the framing, one to each side of the loom, for guiding the needle
bars to the proper position relatively to the warp; M is a rotary
knife mounted upon a carriage or frame N capable of sliding in a
dovetail groove on the rail P, motion being given to the said knife
by means of a train of toothed wheels Q and a rack formed or fixed
on the said rail, into which the train of toothed wheels gear. As
the carriage is moved along the rail P by means of the handle R rotary
motion will be given to the knife. This rail P is hinged to another
rail S placed under the warp and fixed to the loom ends, so that the
knife may be either turned up out of the way when not required
for use, as shewn at Fig. 3, or placed in position for use, as shown at
Fig. 4.
The mode or manner of working this Invention is as follows:-Healds
or heddles are used for opening the shed as in ordinary plain twill or
sulin weaving, and jacquard or other pattern-indicating apparatus is also
employed if the ground is to be figured. A portion of the ground being
woven I open the shed, or raise those warp threads upon which the
design is to be produced by the various colored yarns, which I have
properly arranged in the needles of each board or plate, and the said
several needle bars I have also arranged in proper order according
to the design to be produced. I then turn the reed down upon the
warp, as at Fig. 3, and for the production of plush, chenille, or velvet
pile fabric I take the proper needle bar and place the ends within the

page_text: guides K, and insert or pass the needles through or between the warp
threads close in front of the reed, with the protruding ends of the yarn
resting against the top of the reed, the needles thus forming loops of
the yarn inserted into the warp, as shown. I then pass a crotchet.or
shuttle needle or hooked wire, as shewn at Fig. 8, through the shed
and the loops, and with it I draw a thread of weft or yarn of any suitable
material through the said shed, as shewn at Fig. 3, and also in the
detail at Fig. 9. I then raise the reed into the groove of the hand rail,
and beat up with the slayboard or batten in the usual manner, which
will force these needles and yarn up to the edge of the cloth previously
woven. One or two shoots of weft are then introduced by ordinary
shuttle and with the slayboard beat up, which will secure the design
yarn in the warp. I then raise the said needle bar until the points of
the needles are sufficiently out of and clear above the warp, when the
knife M and its carriage is lowered into the position shewn at Fig. 4,
and which position is suitably arranged, so that when the slide motion
is given to the carriage, and the consequent rotary motion to the knife,
it will cut off the design yarn at a suitable or desirable distance above
the surface of the warp threads, leaving the loops of the said yarn
secure in the warp, with the projecting ends forming the plush face
or surface of the fabric. then proceed in the same manner with
the next needle board or plate (according to arrangement), and so
on until all the needle boards or plates necessary to complete the
design have been used, when I commence again with the one used
first, and so on to the finish of the fabric. Instead of this hinged or
moveable reed I may use a portable reed or comb, and insert the
teeth betwixt the warp threads close to the reed, then draw it forward
to the place suitable for the introduction of the needles with the
figure yarn, thereby to insure and maintain the proper openings of
threads.
the warp
་
For the production of tapestry (or bouché) on one side and plush on
the other I proceed in a similar manner as for plush, except that I pass
the needles through the whole of the warp, and form loops underneath,
through which I pass a wire (or verge), and I also pass a thread through
the warp with the crotchet needle, as shown at Fig. 9. I then raise the
needles, beat up with the batten, change the shed, and introduce one
or more shoots of weft with the shuttle, which secures the design yarn,

page_text: as previously explained. The wires being afterwards withdrawn leaves
tapestry on the under surface and velvet plush or chenille on the upper
surface.
For the production of reps I proceed in the same manner as for
tapestry, except that instead of introducing wires (or verges) through
the loops under the warp I pass a thread through the said loops.
In order to produce fabrics having some portions of surface velvet
and other portions satin or damask, for instance, a table cover can be
produced as follows :—!
-The border with corners and centre of velvet or
plush; the design may be either a bunch of flowers (boquet), fruits,
or scroll work produced in colours; the ground betwixt the border and
the centre may be either satin or damask figure worked by jacquard
apparatus, in the production of which I pass the crotchet or shuttle
needle through the warp (which is opened in the usual way), and with
it draw coloured yarn through the shed, then by ordinary shuttle
throwing in one or more shoots of weft of any suitable material I
fasten the design. Also by a suitable arrangement of the cards of
the jacquard apparatus I am enabled to produce figured design and
satin ground by the jacquard, and coloured design in velvet or chenille
by the needle plate; also by the same arrangement I can produce
at the same time design in velvet on the top and reps on the back,
with satin ground in different colours, that is to say, the top or
velvet side may be crimson, and tho back may be orange or any
other colour.
Having thus fully described the nature and particulars of this my
Invention, together with the manner in which the same is to be or may
be performed or carried into practical effect, I would have it understood
that what I claim as of my Invention is,—
-
Firstly. The construction of looms with moveable or portable reeds in
manner and for purposes set forth.
Secondly. The use of a series of needle plates arranged in manner and
for purposes set forth.
Thirdly. The crotchet needle shown at Fig. 8 for the purpose herein

page_text: Fourthly. The application and use of the circular knife in connection
and combination with the apparatus for the purpose and in the manner
herein fully described and illustrated.
In witness whercof, I, the said Fleury Claudius Gautier, have
hereunto set my hand and seal, this Twenty-first day of August,
in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-
one.
FLEURY CLAUDIUS GAUTIER. (L.S.)
Witness,
WALTER BRIERLEY,
Tasker & Brierley,
Patent Agents,
Halifax.