IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINES FOR SEWING GLOVES AND OTHER ARTICLES."
Year: 1877

page_text: "
LETTERS PATENT to Alexander Melville Clark, of 53, Chancery Lane, in the
County of Middlesex, Patent Agent, for the Invention of IMPROVEMENTS
IN MACHINES FOR SEWING GLOVES AND OTHER ARTICLES." A communication
from abroad by François Socrate Perrare-Michal and Emile Boucirot, both of
Paris, France.
Sealed the 15th September 1877, and dated the 22nd March 1877.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Alexander Melville Clark at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 22nd March 1877.
ALEXANDER MELVILLE CLARK, of 53. Chancery Lane, in the County of Middle-
sex, Patent Agent. IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINES FOR SEWING GLOVES AND
OTHER ARTICLES.” A communication from abroad by François Socrate Perrare-
Michal and Emile Boucirot, both of Paris, France.
This Invention relates to improvements in machines for sewing gloves and other
articles.
In order that the Invention may be more readily understood, I will first describe
the class of machine usually employed for sewing gloves, and known as the rotary
or wheel feed machine.
1
Figure 1 of the accompanying Drawings shows a sectional elevation of the
machine taken on line 1-2, Figure 2, which is a top plan.
The same letters of reference indicate the same parts in both Figures.
g, base or main frame of machine; b, c, rotary feed wheels, of which the one, b,
revolves on a pivot on a bracket d at the front part of the frame a, and the other, e.
is keyed on a vertical spindle e mounted in bearings carried on the upright arm of
an elbow lever f. This lever is pivoted at h within the base a, and the upright
arm rises through a slot g in the base and occupies a position at the front of the
machine. The other arm of the lever extends backwards longitudinally beneath
the base, and is acted on by a spring in order to press the feed wheel against
the other one b. The end of lever f is connected by a rod with a treadle, by
pressing on which the lever'f is oscillated in the direction of the arrows k, k, thereby
moving wheel c away from wheel b in order to introduce or remove the glove;

page_text: 8
7, main shaft of the machine, whence the needle looper and feed receive their motion;
m, m, fly wheels; n, band pulley; o, needle carrier; p, needle. The needle carrier
receives reciprocating motion from an eccentric r, which is keyed on shaft and is
embraced by a fork g, q, fixed on the needle carrier; s is a groove in the horizontal
part of an arm attached to lever f and serving as a guide for the needle after it
has passed through the glove; is a slide working in a support secured to
frame by screws; z is a lever carrying the looper 1, and whose fulcrum is
horizontal and mounted on a crutch pivoted on a vertical axis on the slider to
permit the lever to swing horizontally. By this arrangement it will be seen that
the looper may be moved horizontally, sideways, and endways, and also in a vertical
direction; these three motions which are necessary in the formation of a chain
whip stitch being produced by cams 2, 3, and 4, keyed on shaft 1.
The horizontal movements sideways are obtained by swells 5 on one face of cam 2
which, acting on the tail end of lever z, oscillates it together with crutch y on its
vertical axis. A spring 6 attached to the lever returns it to position. The endwise
movement forwards obtained by cam 3 acting on the end of slider, the return
movement being produced by a spring not shown.
The up-and-down motion of the looper is obtained one way by the cam 4 and
the other way by the spring 6, which acts in the reverse direction; 7, ratchet,
keyed on feed wheel band operated by a click 8 carried on a lever 9, which is
actuated by a cam 10 keyed on shaft . An intermittent rotary movement is thus
imparted at each revolution of the said shaft, that is, after every stitch, to the feed
wheel for feeding the leather or fabric to be sewn, the wheel turning merely by
friction.
The objections to machines of the above kind are as follows:
1st. The vertical arm of the lever f which carries the feed wheel c occupying a
position directly in front of the machine, prevents the operator holding the work
with both hands whilst placing it between the feed wheels, as one hand must let
go the work as it passes behind lever f and then again seize it, in consequence of
which the work is frequently disarranged and much time is lost.
2nd. The two feed wheels b, c, continually pressing on the glove are especially
liable to rub the leather or fabric into creases or folds. Moreover, as the edges of
the feed wheels are deeply grooved or milled it is impossible to turn the work to
sew the rounded ends of the fingers, for example, without releasing the glove by
moving forward the wheel e by means of the pedal, necessitating a complete stoppage
of the machine at every two stitches.
3rd. There is no guide for the work while being sewn, which may move up or
down between the feed wheels, thereby causing irregularity in the sewing, which is
not throughout at an equal distance from the edge.
4th. There is no means of regulating the pressure of the wheel c against wheel b;
consequently, when the thickness of the work is greater or less than that for which
the pressure of spring is adapted, the pressure is either excessive or insufficient.
5th. The needle carrier working above the feed wheel and the needle p being
compelled to pass tangentially to the surface of the latter in order to enter grooves,
it is necessarily fixed below the axis of the needle carrier,and as the latter is operated
by the fork and eccentric which is not in the same horizontal plane with the
needle carrier, it may happen that if either the eccentric or the fork are slightly out
of truth, the needle carrier will turn on its centre and thus cause the needle
deviate from the vertical plane in which it should work, thus altering the relative
positions of the looper and needle, producing missed stitches, and causing the needle
to strike against the end of part instead of entering the groove s.
to
6th. The position of support u of the looper carrier is difficult to regulate by the
two screws, repeated trials being necessary.
7th. The springs for keeping the lever up to the cams do not act uniformly or
perfectly when the machine is driven at a high speed, the result being the formation
of a hard ridge in the sewing and frequent breakage of the thread.
All the above objections are obviated by the improvements of the present Inven-

page_text: tion, whereby whip-stitch machines are rendered practically available for sewing
gloves.
The improvements consist,-
1st. In constructing the lever which carries the feed wheel e in such manner as
to pass above and behind the feed wheel within the machine frame, so as to permit
of holding the work with both hands whilst placing it between the feed wheels.
2nd. In imparting to the said lever a slight motion at each stitch whilst the
needle is passing through the work, whereby the wheel is moved away from
wheel and the pressure is taken off the work, thereby avoiding puckers or wrinkles
and allowing the work to be turned on the needle as a centre in sewing round the
ends of the fingers.
3rd. In the employment of a special construction of needle guide as a substitute
for the arm, before described, said guide serving the threefold purpose: 1st, of
forming a channel for the needle; 2nd, as a support for the work against the
needle. to facilitate the penetration of the latter; 3rd, to ensure the formation of
a stitch of uniform depth, the guide being mounted in an arm on the frame and
made adjustable vertically for regulating the depth of stitch.
4th. In providing the lever which carries the feed wheel with a friction roller
or its equivalent (for the operating cam to act upon), said roller or its equivalent
being made adjustable by means of a screw to regulate the distance between the
feed wheels c, b, to suit the thickness of the material to be sewn.
5th. In means for readily adjusting the position of the looper carrier support upon
the machine frame.
6th. In the application to whip-stitch machines for sewing gloves of rectilinear-
acting feed grippers of the kind herein-after described, which enable the needle to
be placed in the axis of the needle carrier, and thus avoid the cause of breakage
before mentioned.
7th. In a novel arrangement and combination of parts of the machine which
comprises the following improvements:-The needle carrier is operated directly by
the eccentric without the fork g, the carrier being made of special form for the
purpose: the springs to keep the looper carrier against the cams are dispensed with
by the employment of grooved cams: a device is employed which enables the
sewing to be effected with slack tension, so as to avoid the hard ridge of stitching
and the frequent breakage of the thread: an arrangement is employed which avoids
the breaking of the needle, and also an arrangement in connection with the feed for
detaching the leather from one of the feed jaws after it has been pressed upon it by
the other; also novel arrangements of the overcasting looper, one of which ilispensez
with the use of springs.
Figures 3 and 4 of the Drawings show vertical and horizontal sections of a whip
stitch machine for sewing gloves comprising only the first four improvements. The
lever 11. which carries the feed wheel c. it will be seen, rises above the same and
extends back and downward inside the frame and is pivoted at h. This allows
of the ready introduction of the glove between the two feed wheels in the direction
indicated by the arrow in Figure 3 whilst holding it with both hands. To avoid
making the lever 11 too heavy, another lever 12, operated by the treadle, is made
to art on lever 11: lever 12 is kept away from lever 11 by a spring 13 pressing it
down upon a stop 14. The separation of the feed wheels b, c, during the formation
of each stitch is effected by the part 15 of feed cam 10 acting on a friction
roller 16 on lever 11 so as to press back the latter. the lever being returned by a
spring 17 the friction roller 16 is mounted on a rod 18 sliding in a socket formed
in lever 11 containing a spiral 20 and provided with an adjusting screw 19, by
means of which the rod 18 may be made to project more or less from the lever 11,
and so regulate the distance between the feed wheels c, b, according to the thickness
of the work.
Figures 5. 6. 7. 8. and 9, show the needle guide to be substituted for the arm t.
Figures and 2: Figure 5 is an end view of the part; Figure 6 a part side view:
Figure 7 a part plan; Figure 8 a part section on line 1–2, Figure 7, and Figure 9

page_text: a similar section to indicate the position of the needle and work. As seen in
Figure 3, the guide 21 is bent at a right angle and may be set higher or lower in
an arm 22 fixed at the front of the frame, and is secured therein by a set screw 23;
on the upper side of its horizontal part the guide 21 has a groove 24 for the needle,
and its extremity is bent to form a shoulder 25 to support the work against the
point of the needle, and the horizontal flange 26 forms a guide for the edge of the
work, as represented in Figure 9, to ensure regularity in the depth of the stitching,
which may he regulated at will by raising or lowering the guide 21 in the arm 22,
the depth of groove 24 being sufficient to admit of this adjustment.
Figures 10, 11, 14, 15, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 31, 32, 33, and 34 show the kind of
feed to be employed in lieu of the wheel feed b, c; it is specially arranged for glove-
sewing machines. In this feed, as already known, the jaws which grip the work
above and below move perfectly parallel, thereby avoiding the puckering of the
work; it also admits of sewing on curves without stopping the machine.
The present improvements therein consist in three novel arrangements of the two
jaws, in order that they may both be actuated directly by the same cam keyed on
the main shaft of the machine without the intervention of levers or tappets. By
this arrangement the parts are more compact, and the mechanism regulating the
distance of the stitches is always in contact with the cam, whatever may be the
size of stitch, thereby avoiding shocks and noise.
The first of these two arrangements is represented in plan and elevation in
Figures 10 and 11; 32 is the upper jaw fitted by a dovetailed slide in a bracket 33
attached to the machine frame, so as to move in the direction of the arrows 34, 341;
35 is the lower jaw moving to and from the other jaw at each stitch in the direction
of the arrows 36, 36, in order to grip and conjointly with the other jaw feed the
work in the direction of arrow 34 and then release it; to this end jaw 35 can
move by transverse dovetail slide in the jaw 32; 10 is the cam actuating the
two jaws keyed on shaft ; on one face of the cam is a raised part 37 inclined from
the circumference to the centre, which pushes back the roller 38 attached to the
jaw 82 in order to move the two jaws in the direction of arrow 34; a spring 39
keeps this roller constantly up to the cam and therefore returns the jaws in the
opposite direction; a screw 40 serves to shift this roller nearer to or farther from
the centre of the cam, and thus regulate the length of stitch by the path of the
roller being at a higher or lower point of the inclined 37.
The third arrangement is illustrated in Figures 24, 25, and 32; in this the tail
of the jaw 85 also slides in guides 63 and 64 fixed to the part 67 of the lower
jaw 32, but to prevent the jaw 35 turning in its guides, it has fixed upon it between
the guides a collar 65 with a flat side 66 against the part 67 of jaw 32, both the
surfaces in contact being truly plane to prevent any oscillation of the jaw: a
spring 68 on the tail of the jaw between collar 65 and guide 64 serves to keep the
jaws 35 closed against the other jaw 32; a roller 42 on a stud fixed by a collar to
the tail end of jaw 35 is acted on by cam 10 fo open the jaws at the proper
moment.
Figures 2 and 25 show also a novel arrangement of the device for regulating
the length of stitch; it consists in mounting the adjusting screw in a nut 69 and
guide 70 formed on the part 67 of the jaw 32; this screw carries a roller retained
by a washer, and turning on the smooth part of the screw rod in order that this
roller may act tangentially on the feed cam 10; this screw 40 should always he in
the axial plane of the sliding rods and the shaft : the part 37 of the cam being
inclined from the centre to the circumference. the length of the stitch will be
regulated according as the path of the roller is nearer or farther from the centre of
the cam.
The advantages of this arrangement are that no intermediate lever is employed
between the cam and the feed devices; all shocks and noise are avoided by the
constant contact of the roller with the cam whatever may be the size of stitch;
the initial point of the feed movement is always the same, that is to say, the jaws
firmly connected together may move a greater or less distance but always return to

page_text: the same starting point. This is of importance in this machine for sewing gloves, as
will be explained hereafter.
The glove leather when gripped between the feed jaws adheres to the smooth
polished surfaces of the jaws. “When these open, that is to say, when the jaw 35
moves perpendicularly away from the jaw 32, it detaches itself from the feather
because the latter as the needle penetrates it is held against the jaw 32, which at
this moment remains stationary. The adhesion is thus to jaw 32, and when the
two jaws move back in the direction of arrow 34 the work tends to accompany the
jaws in this movement.
To obviate this objection a device is applied to the feed jaws which presses
on the work in the opposite direction to that in which jaw 32 and the needle
press. This device consists simply of a blade or rod pressed perpendicularly against
the work by a spring or by a lever operated from the main shaft, or by the agency
of any other part of the machine which may be independent or not of the feed.
The action of the device may either be intermittent or continuous; in the one
case it will press against the work only at the precise moment when required before
the jaws open, and in the other case its pressure will be overcome by the one jaw 35
closing against the other one 32. 1 prefer, however, the intermittent action, as
the device being withdrawn when its action is not required it is not liable to
injure the work, and does not obstruct the insertion of the work between the
jaws.
One form of the device is shown in Figures 14, 15, 21, and 22; it consists of a
bent lever 49 terminating in a part 50 which acts on the work, the said lever oscil-
lating on an axis 51 fixed to the arm 22 which carries the needle guide 21, the
axis being in the vertical plane of the feed jaws; 52 is a small cam on the boss of
the feed cam 10; 5 is a spring to keep the lever against the cam 52 and with-
draw the part 50, which may be a flat plate, as shown in Figure 13, and act only
beneath jaw 32, or it may be turned up at the sides so as to art at either side of the
said jaw, as well as beneath it. Instead of being carried on a lever it may be
fitted to slide in guides on the machine frame, or it may be mounted on the arm
which carries the jaw 35.
Figures 10 and 12 respectively show in plan and elevation the way in which the
needle carrier is actuated directly by the eccentric without employing the fork q
attached to the needle carrier, as in Figures 1 and 2. To this end the needle carrier
is bent to a semicircular form at 44 to embrace the eccentric, and permit of the
latter acting on the needle carrier in the line of its axis. This curved part 44 is
flattened, and received between two flanges 45 on the eccentric.
Figure 13 shows a means of adjusting the position of the looper carrier support
on the machine frame. 46 are the two screws fixing the support in position; they
have washers beneath their heads, and pass through holes of somewhat larger
diameter to enable the support to be shifted as required without unfixing it from
the machine frame. 48 are adjusting screws acting on the support in two direr-
tions at right angles the one to the other, whereby the support may be accurately
adjusted to the desired position, and fixed by screws 46.
Another improvement relates to the defect in machine sewing when the tension
is insufficient and the thread floats on the work and forms itself into loops. This
defect is particularly common to glove sewing, in which very fine needles and
relatively coarse thread are used, and the friction of the glove leather on the thread
as the needle passes through is comparatively very great.
The improvement consists in arranging on the needle carrier itself a nipper
acting intermittently, and actuated by a part of the machine independent of the
needle carrier. This device nips or holds the thread at a point between the needle
and the thread spool at the moment when the threaded part of the needle is passing
through the work, thus ensuring that the thread from the previous stitch is drawn
tight. The nipper is shown in Figures 14, 19, and 20, and consists of a thin steel
plate 54 springing slightly away from the needle carrier o, beneath which it is
placed in such manner that at a given moment the thread may pass freely between

page_text: this nipper and the needle carrier. An elbow lever 55 mounted on a pivot 58 in a
bracket 57 fixed to the frame is made by a spring 59 connected to it to bear upon
the plate 54, the pressure being rendered intermittent by the action of a cam 56
on the main shaft 7, or against the eccentric r. This arrangement, or something
like it, is already in existence in chain-stitch machines, but it acts in one way
only, to produce one particular result, viz., to nip the thread in order to make the
needle throw out a loop for the hook to pass through before the needle rises out of
the work.
The device of this Invention not only produces the same result, but also by the
action of the cam it nips the thread immediately it enters and before its eye has
passed through the work, in order to take up the slack coming from the previous
stitch. The nipper releases the thread before the needle arrives at the end of its
course, in order that the stitch may be drawn tight merely by the drag of the
tension device usually placed near the spool.
The results obtained by this combination are that:-The formation of loops in
stitching is prevented, a smooth elastic whip stitch is produced, frequent breakage
of the thread is avoided, either glazed or unglazed thread may be used; the hard
ridge in the stitching produced by ordinary machines is prevented. The over-
casting looper seizes the loop of thread at the commencement of the return of the
needle, and retains it to prevent the stitch being missed; it raises the loop and
throws it over the edge of the work, and carries it down behind the jaw 35 after
the needle has been drawn out of the work, and brings it in the path of the
needle, in order that the latter before it again enters the work may pass through
the loop, which is at this moment abandoned by the looper; the latter then resumes
its former position in order to form a new stitch, and so on.
These several movements of the looper are obtained by three distinct mechanisms,
each producing a reciprocating motion, two of these being horizontal, one in the
same direction as the needle, the other in the direction of the feed, and a third in a
vertical direction. All these movements are not only reciprocating but intermittent.
and require to be made mutually dependent the one on the other, for which purpose
the following arrangement is adopted: An arm 71 pivoted at 72 on an axis 73 is
fixed to the machine frame «; an arm 75 branches from arm 71, and terminates in a
friction roller 74 working in a groove in cam 2, which gives the horizontal move-
ment of the looper in the same direction as the needle; z, looper carrier or lever
fulcrumed on a pin 78 mounted in a fork 76 pivoted on the end of arm 71 and
retained by a screw 77 received in a circular groove in its pivot; 79, friction roller
on the short arm of lever z working in a sinuous groove in cani 2, by which the
vertical movements of the looper are produced; 80, friction roller mounted vertically
above 79, through which the horizontal movements in the direction of the feed are
obtained: S1, flat spring fixed on armi 71, and bearing against the arm of lever z to
produce its return horizontal movement. The cam 2 is triple acting to produce the
movements above referred to; it is secured on shaft by a set screw 82. 1, over-
casting looper secured by a screw 83 to lever z. The arm 71 pivoted at 73 may be
replaced by a slide similar to either of those before referred to working on a support
cast on the machine frame, all the other parts remaining the same, except that the
form of the cam 2 would he modified to suit this alteration.
•
In Figures 31, 32, 33, and 34 is shown another arrangement in which the
vibrating movement in Figures 14, 15. 16, 17, and 18 is replaced by a rectilinear
sliding movement, while the effect of the re-acting spring 81 is obtained by making
a lateral groove in the cam, for which purpose the fork 76 is provided with a lever
76 having a friction roller 80 at its extremity working in a sinuous groove in the
triple acting cam 2; z is the overcasting looper and 79 its friction roller; 75 is a
rod sliding in bearings 75 and 753 on a plate 75, and on it is fixed a foot 71 by
a socket 71, through which rod 75 passes and set screw 71³. The socket 71³,
in which turns the pivot 763 of fork 76, is formed on the foot 71; 755, bracket
on the machine framing, upon which the whole of the above mechanisin is
mounted. The bracket and plate 75 are both mortised to receive the socket 71*.

page_text: In the arrangement shown in Figures 31 and 32, greater length is given both to
the feed and looper slides in order to reduce the extent to which the parts overhang
the machine, and consequently lessen the vibration when working at high speed.
In order to enable the work to be placed betwen the feed jaws with one finger
of the left hand, the upper jaw 35 is opened by the eccentric lever 84. If however
this operation be performed at the moment when the looper has descended behind
said jaw, the looper would be subjected to pressure, which might throw it out of
position; and to avoid all accidents of this nature, there is formed upon the
boss of the main feed cam 10 a swell 85 to bear upon the upper jaw 85 and prevent
it being opened during the time the looper 1 is behind said jaw.
In the wheel feed machines in common use the work is only held below the
point at which the needle enters, and it consequently often happens that the work
yields and is pressed down by the needle, especially when the point of the needle is
blunt or the leather is very thin and supple, and the needle passes over instead of
through the work, and being thus forced out of its proper path, it is caught and
broken by the looper, involving loss of the needle, of time, and an additional join in
the sewing.
In
All the above objections are obviated by the improvements herein adopted.
the first place the upper edge of the jaw 35 is made to rise above the level of the
needle, and is flush with the edges of the work, which is thus kept perfectly
straight, and a vertical notch 86, slightly extended downwards below the needle, is
made in the jaw to avoid nipping the thread. Figures 28 and 30 show this notch
enlarged for the sake of clearness. This notch it will be seen extends horizontally
to admit of the free passage of the needle, which always has a portion of the jaw
above if to prevent it rising and being caught by the looper. The horizontal portion
of the notch should equal the length of the largest stitch it is required to produce
in the machine; it is here that the feed mechanism, moving always from one
starting point, as before described, is found of advantage. When the feed is at its
initial position, the short horizontal arm beneath which the needle passes should
hardly cover it, as seen in Figures 28 and 29, so that when needle is with-
drawn and the looper 1 casts the loop over behind the jaw, the loop shall not be
caught on the point of this arm; it is only when the needle enters the work, the
feed being advanced, that it assumes the position indicated in Figure 30, whereupon
the object sought is attained.
In order to reduce the course of the needle thread, the arrangement, Figure 31,
is adopted, which consists in passing the thread through an oval hole in the needle
carrier, and inclining forward the rod of the take up spring 90. By this arrange
ment the friction of the thread in the guides is reduced, and it is less liable to
become frayed.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by the
said Alexander Melville Clark in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 22nd
September 1877.
O
ALEXANDER MELVILLE CLARK, of 53, Chancery Lane, in the County of Middle-
sex, Patent Agent. IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINES FOR SEWING GLOVES AND
A communication from abroad by François Socrate Perrare-
OTHER ARTICLES."
Michal and Emile Bourirot, both of Paris, France.
This Invention relates to improvements in machines for sewing gloves and
other articles.
In order that the Invention may be more readily understood, I will first describe
the class of machine usually employed for sewing gloves, and known as the
rotary or wheel feed machine.
Figure 1 of the accompanying Drawings shows a sectional elevation of the
machine, taken on line 1-2, Figure 2, which is a top plan.
The same letters of reference indicate the same parts in both Figures.
I

page_text: j
a base or main frame of machine; b, c, rotary feed wheels, of which the one b
revolves on a pivot on a bracket & at the front part of the frame, and the other, c,
is keyed on a vertical spindle c mounted in bearings carried on the upright arm of
an elbow lever f. This lever is pivoted ath within the base a, and the upright arm
rises through a slot g in the base and occupies a position at the front of the machine.
The other arm of the lever extends backwards horizontally beneath the base, and
is acted on by a spring i in order to press the feed wheel against the other
one . The end of lever f is connected by a rod with the treadle, by pressing on
which the leverf is oscillated in the direction of the arrows k, k, thereby moving
wheele away from wheel b, in order to introduce or remove the glove; 7, main
shaft of the machine, whence the needle looper and feed receive their motion;
m, m, fly wheels; n, band pulley; o, needle carrier; p, needle. The needle carrier
receives reciprocating motion from an eccentric r, which is keyed on shaft 7 and is
embraced by a fork g, q, fixed on the needle carrier; s is a groove in the horizontal
part of an arm attached to lever f, serving as a guide for the needle after it has
passed through the glove; is a slide working in a support secured to frame a by
screws is a lever carrying the looper 1, and whose fulcrum is horizontal and
mounted in a crutch y pivoted on a vertical axis on the slider to permit the lever
to swing horizontally. By this arrangement it will be seen that the looper may be
moved horizontally, sideways and endways, and also in a vertical direction; these
three motions which are necessary in the formation of a chain whip stitch being
produced by cams 2, 3 and 4 keyed on shaft Z.
The horizontal movements sideways are obtained by swells 5 on one face of cam 2,
which act on the tail end of lever 2, and oscillate it together with crutch y on its
vertical axis. A spring 6 attached to the lever returns it to position. The endwise
movement forwards is obtained by com 3 acting on the end of slide 7, the return
movement being produced by a spring not shown.
The up-and-down motion of the looper is obtained one way by the cam 4, and
the other way by the spring 6, which acts in the reverse direction; 7, ratchet,
keyed on feed wheel b, and operated by a click 8, carried on a lever 9 which is
actuated by a cam 10 keyed on shaft 1. An intermittent rotary movement is thus
imparted at each revolution of the said shaft, that is after every stitch, to the feed
wheel for feeding the leather or fabric to be sewn, the wheel turning merely by
friction.
The objections to machines of the above kind are as follows:-
(1.) The vertical arm of the lever which carries the feed wheel c, occupying a
position directly in front of the machine, prevents the operator holding the work
with both hands whilst placing it between the feed wheels, one hand must let go
the work as it passes behind lever f and then again seize it, in consequence of
which the work is frequently disarranged and much time is lost.
(2.) The two feed wheels b, c, continually pressing on the glove are especially
liable to rub the leather or fabric into creases or folds. Moreover, as the edges of
the feed wheels are deeply grooved or milled it is impossible to turn the work to
sew the rounded ends of the fingers, for example, without releasing the glove by
moving forward the wheel by means of the pedal, necessitating a complete
stoppage of the machine at every two stitches.
(3.) There is no guide for the work while being sewn, which may move up or
lown between the feed wheels, thereby causing irregularity in the sewing, which is
not throughout at an equal distance from the edge.
(4.) There is no means of regulating the pressure of the wheel e against wheel b;
consequently, when the thickness of the work is greater or less than that for which
the pressure of spring is adapted, the pressure is either excessive or insufficient.
(5.) The needle carrier working above the feed wheel and the needle 7 being
compelled to pass tangentially to the surface of the latter, in order to enter grooves,
it is necessarily fixed below the axis of the needle carrier, and as the latter is
operated by the fork and eccentric r, which is not in the same horizontal plane with
the needle carrier, it may happen that if either the eccentric or the fork are slightly

page_text: out of truth, the needle carrier will turn on its centre and thus cause the needle p
to deviate from the vertical plane in which it should work, thus altering the relative
positions of the looper and needle, producing missed stitches, and causing the needle
to strike against the end of the part instead of entering the groove s.
(6.) The position of support of the looper carrier is difficult to regulate by the
two screws v, repeated trials being necessary.
(7.) The springs for keeping the lever up to the cams do not act uniformly or
perfectly when the machine is driven at a high speed, the result being the formation
of a hard ridge in the sewing and frequently breakage of the thread.
All the above objections are obviated by the improvements of the present Inven-
tion, whereby whip-stitch machines are rendered practically available for sewing
gloves.
The improvements consist:-
(1.) In constructing the lever which carries the feed wheel c in such manner as
to pass above and behind the feed wheel within the machine frame, so as to
permit of holding the work with both hands whilst placing it between the feed
wheels.
(2.) In imparting to the said lever a slight motion at each stitch whilst the
needle is passing through the work, whereby the wheel is moved away from
wheel, and the pressure is taken off the work, thereby avoiding puckers or
wrinkles and allowing the work to be turned on the needle as a centre in sewing
round the ends of the fingers.
(3.) In the employment of a special construction of needle guide as a substitute
for the arm t, before described. said guide serving the three-fold purpose: first, of
forming a channel for the needle; second, as a support for the work against the
needle, to facilitate the penetration of the latter; thirdly, to ensure the formation
of stitches of uniform depth, the guide being mounted in an arm on the frame and
made adjustable vertically for regulating the depth of stitch.
(4.) In providing the lever which carries the feed wheel with a friction roller
or its equivalent (for the operating cam to act upon), said roller or its equivalent
being made adjustable by means of a screw to regulate the distance between the
feed wheels c, b. to suit the thickness of the material to be sewn.
(5.) In means for readily adjusting the position of the looper carrier support
upon the machine frame.
(6.) In the application to whip-stitch machines for sewing gloves of rectilinear-
acting feed grippers. of the kind herein-after described, which enable the needle to
be placed in the axis of the needle carrier, and thus avoid the cause of breakage,
before mentioned.
(7.) In a novel arrangement and combination of parts of the machine, which
comprises the following improvements:-(a) the needle carrier is operated directly
by the eccentric without the fork . the carrier being made of special form
for the purpose: (6) the springs to keep the looper carrier against the cams are
dispensed with by the employment of grooved cams; (c) a device is employed
which enables the sewing to be effected with slack tension. so as to avoid the hard
ridge of stitching and the frequent breakage of the thread; (2) an arrangement is
employed which avoids the breakage of the needle; (c) an arrangement in connec-
tion with the feed for detaching the leather from one of the feed jaws after it has
been pressed upon it by the other: also novel arrangements of the over-casting
looper, one of which dispenses with the use of springs.
Figures 3 and 4 of the Drawings show vertical and horizontal sections of a
whip-stitch machine for sewing gloves, comprising only the first four improvements.
The lever 11, which carries the feed wheel c, it will be seen, rises above the same
and extends back and downward inside the frame a, and is pivoted at h. This
allows of the ready introduction of the glove between the two feed wheels, in the
direction indicated by the arrow in Figure 3, whilst holding it with both hands.
To avoid making the lever 11 too heavy, another lever 12, operated by the treadle,

page_text: is made to act on lever 11; lever 12 is kept away from lever 11 by a spring 13
pressing it down upon a stop 14. The separation of the feed wheels b, c, during
the formation of each stitch is effected by the part 15 of feed ram 10 acting on a
friction roller 16 on lever 11 so as to press back the latter, the lever being returned
by a spring 17; the friction roller 16 is mounted on a rod 18 sliding in a socket
formed in lever 11 containing a spiral 20 and provided with an adjusting screw 19,
by means of which the rod 18 may be made to project more or less from the
lever 11, and so regulate the distance between the feed wheels c, b, according to the
thickness of the work.
i
Figures 5, 6, 7, 8, and 9 show the needle guide to be substituted for the arm t,
Figures 1 and 2; Figure 5 is an end view of the part; Figure G, a part side view;
Figure 7,a part plan: Figure S.a part section on line 1-2, Figure 7; and Figure 9,
a similar section to indicate the position of the needle and work. As seen in
Figure 3 the guide 21 is bent at a right angle, and may be set higher or lower in
an arm 22 fixed at the front of the frame, and is secured therein by a set screw 23.
On the upper side of its horizontal part the guide 21. has a groove 24 for the needle,
and its extremity is bent to form a shoulder 25 to support the work against the
point of the needle, and the horizontal flange 26 forms a guide for the edge of the
work, as represented in Figure 9, to ensure regularity in the depth of stitching,
which may be regulated at will by raising or lowering the guide 21 in the arm 22,
the depth of groove 24 being sufficient to admit of this adjustment.
Figures 10, 11, 14, 15, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 31, 32, 33, and 34 show the kind of
feed to be employed in lieu of the wheel feed b. e; it is specially arranged for
glove-sewing machines. In this feed, as already known, the jaws which grip the
work above and below move perfectly parallel, thereby avoiding the puckering of
the work; it also admits of sewing on curves without stopping the machine.
The present improvement therein consists in three novel arrangements of the two
jaws, in order that they may both be actuated directly by the same cam keyed on
the main shaft of the machine without the intervention of levers or tappels. By
this arrangement the parts are more compact, and the mechanism regulating the
distance of the stitches is always in contact with the cam, whatever may be the
size of stitch, thereby avoiding shocks and noise.
The first of these two arrangements is represented in plan and elevation in
Figures 10 and 11. 32 is the upper jaw fitled by a dovetailed slide in a bracket 33
attached to the machine frame, so as to move in the direction of the arrows 34, 341;
35 is the lower jaw moving to and from the other jaw at each stitch in the direction
of the arrows 36, 301, in order to grip and conjointly with the other jaw feed the
work in the direction of arrow 34, and then release it. To this end jaw 35 can
move by a transverse dovetail slide in the jaw 32: 10 is the cam actuating the two
jaws keyed on shaft . On one face of the cam is a raised part 37 inclined from
the circumference to the centre, which pushes back the roller 38 attached to the
jaw 32 in order to move the two jaws in the direction of arrow 34. A spring 39
keeps this roller constantly up to the cam, and therefore returns the jaws in the
opposite direction. A screw 40 serves to shift the roller nearer to or farther from
the centre of the cam, and thus regulate the length of stitch by the path of the
roller being at a higher or lower point of the incline 37: 41. cam surface on the
opposite face of cam 10, which acts on roller 42 of jaw 35 to move the latter away
from jaw 32 in the direction of arrow 36; 43. spring for returning jaw 35 to
position. The arms of the two feed jaws are bent, as shown, to bring them per-
pendicular to the needle. With the above feed arrangement the needle may be
placed at the centre of the needle carrier, and thus avoid the cause of breakage
before mentioned.
In the second and third arrangements the dovetailed slides of the feed jaws are
replaced by round pins sliding in holes or guides, whereby the parts are more readily
fitted together, and at less cost; they are also more easily lubricated, and the oil is
better retained.

page_text: The second arrangement is illustrated in Figures 14, 15, 21, 22, and 23. In this
case the slide 60 of the lower jaw 32 only is provided with pins 61, the upper jaw
35 being formed with a flat surface 62 to slide upon part 60 of the lower jaw.
The third arrangement is illustrated in Figures 24, 25, and 32. In this the tail
of the jaw 35 also slides in guides 63 and 64 fixed to the part 67 of the lower jaw,
32, but to prevent the jaw 35 turning in its guides it has fixed upon it between
the guides a collar 65 with a flat side 66 against the part 67 of jaw 32, both
the surfaces in contact. being truly plane to prevent any oscillation of the jaw. A
spring 68 on the tail of the jaw between collar 65 and guide 64 serves to keep the
jaw 35 closed against the other jaw 32; a roller 42 on a stud fixed by a collar
to the tail end of jaw 35 is acted on by cam 10 to open the jaws at the proper
moment.
Figures 24 and 25 also show a novel arrangement of the device for regulating the
length of stitch; it consists in mounting the adjusting screw 40 in a nut 69
and guide 70 formed on the part 67 of the jaw 32. This screw carries a roller 38
retained by a washer, and turning on the smooth part of the screw rod, in order
that the roller may act tangentially on the feed cam 10. The screw 40 should
always be in the axial plane of the sliding rods and the shaft Z. The part 37 of
the cam being inclined from the centre to the circumference, the length of the
stitch will be regulated according as the path of the roller is nearer or farther from
the centre of the cam.
The advantages of this arrangement are that no intermediate lever is employed
between the cam and the feed devices; all shocks and noise are avoided by the
constant contact of the roller with the cam, whatever may be the size of stitch.
The initial point of the feed movement is always the same, that is to say, the jaws
firmly connected together may move a greater or less distance, but always return to
starting point. This is of importance in this machine for sewing gloves,
as will be explained hereafter.
the same
The glove leather when gripped between the feed jaws adheres to the smooth
polished surfaces of the jaws. When these open, that is to say, when the jaw 35
moves perpendicularly away from the jaw 32 it detaches itself from the leather,
because the latter, as the needle penetrates it, is held against the jaw 82. which at
this moment remains stationary. The adhesion is thus to jaw 32, and when the two
jaws move back in the direction of arrow 34 the work tends to accompany the
jaws in this movement.
To obviate this objection a device is applied to the feed jaws, which presses on
the work in the opposite direction to that in which the jaw 32 and the needle
press. This device consists simply of a blade or rod pressed perpendicularly
against the work by a spring, or by a lever operated from the main shaft, or by
the agency of any other part of the machine which may be independent or not of
the feed.
The action of the device may either be intermittent or continuous: in the one
case it will press against the work only at the precise moment when required before
the jaws open, and in the other case its pressure will be overcome by the one jaw
35 closing against the other one 32. I, however, prefer the intermittent action.
as the device being withdrawn when its action is not required it is not liable to
injure the work, and does not obstruct the insertion of the work between the
jaws.
Que form of the device is shown in Figures 14. 15. 21, and 22; it consists of a
bent lever 49 terminating in a part 50 which acts on the work, the said lever
oscillating on an axis 51 fixed to the arm 22 which carries the needle guide 21, the
axis being in the vertical plane of the feed jaws 52 is a small cam on the boss of the
feed cam 10; 53 is a spring to keep the lever against the cam 52, and withdraw
the part 50, which may be a flat plate, as shown in Figure 13, and act only beneath
jaw 32, or it may be turned up at the sides, so as to act at either side of the said
jaw, as well as beneath it. Instead of being carried on a lever it may be fitted to

page_text: slide in guides on the machine frame, or it may be mounted on the arm which
carries the jaw 85.
1)
"
Figures 10 and 12 respectively show in plan and elevation the way in which the
needle carrier is actuated directly by the eccentric without employing the fork
attached to the needle carrier, as in Figures 1 and 2. To this end the needle
carrier is bent to a semicircular form at 44 to embrace the eccentric, and permit of
the latter acting on the needle carrier in the line of its axis; this curved part 44 is
flattened and received between two flanges 45 on the eccentric.
Figure 3 shows a means of adjusting the position of the looper carrier support
on the machine frame. 46 are the two screws fixing the support in position; they
have washers beneath their heads, and pass through holes of somewhat larger
diameter to enable the support u to be shifted as required without unfixing it from
the machine frame; 48 are adjusting screws acting upon the support in two
directions at right angles the one to the other, whereby the support may b
accurately adjusted to the desired position, and fixed by screws 46.
Another improvement relates to the defect in machine sewing when the tension
is insufficient and the thread floats on the work, and forms itself into loops. This
defect is particularly common to glove sewing, in which very fine needles and
relatively coarse thread are used, and the friction of the glove leather on the thread,
as the needle passes through, is comparatively very great.
The improvement consists in arranging on the needle carrier itself a nipper acting
intermittently, and actuated by a part of the machine independent of the needle
carrier. This device nips or holds the thread at a point between the needle and the
thread spool at the moment when the threaded part of the needle is passing through
the work, thus ensuring that the thread from the previous stitch is drawn tight.
The nipper is shown in Figures 14, 19, and 20, and consists of a thin steel plate 54
springing slightly away from the needle carrier », beneath which it is placed in
such manner that at a given moment the thread may pass freely between the nipper
and the needle carrier. An elbow lever 55 mounted on a pivot 58 in a brucket 57
fixed to the frame is made by a spring 59 connected to it to bear upon the
plate 53, the pressure being rendered intermittent by the action of a cam 56 on the
main shaft or against the eccentric r. This arrangement, or something like it, is
already in existence in chain-stitch machines, but it acts in one way only, to
produce one particular result, viz., to nip the thread in order to make the needle
throw out a loop for the hook to pass through before the needle rises out of the
work.
The device of this Invention not only produces the same result, but by the action
of the cam it also nips the thread immediately it enters, and before its eye has
passed through the work, in order to take up the slack coming from the previous
stitch. The nipper releases the thread before the needle arrives at the end of its
course, in order that the stitch may be drawn tight merely by the drag of the tension
device usually placed near the spool.
The results obtained from this combination are:-The formation of loops in the
stitching is prevented: a smooth elastic whip stitch is produced; frequent breakage
of the thread is avoided; either glazed or unglazed thread may be used; the hard
ridge in the stitching produced by ordinary machines is prevented. The overeasting
looper seizes the loop of thread at the commencement of the return of the needle
and retains it to prevent the stitch being missed; it raises the loop and throws it
over the edge of the work, and carries it down behind the jaw 35, after the needle
has been drawn out of the work and brings it in the path of the needle, in order
that the latter before it again enters the work may pass through the loop, which is
at this moment abandoned by the looper; the latter then resumes its former position,
in order to form a new stitch, and so on.
These several movement of the looper are obtained by three distinct mechanisms,
each producing a reciprocating motion, two of these being horizontal.one in the same
direction as the needle, the other in the direction of the feed, and a third in a

page_text: vertical direction. All these movements are not only reciprocating but intermittent,"
and require to be made mutually dependent the one on the other for which purpose
the following arrangement is adopted: An arm 71 is pivoted at 72 on axis 78.
fixed to the machine frame a; an arm 75 branches from arm 71, and terminates in a
friction roller 4 working in a groove in cam 2, which gives the horizontal movement
of the looper in the same direction as the needle: z, looper carrier or lever fulcrumed
on a pin 78 mounted in a fork 76 pivoted on the end of arm 71 and retained by a
screw 77 received in a circular groove in its pivot; 79, friction roller on the short
arm of lever working in a sinuous groove in eam 2, by which the vertical move,
ments of the looper are produced; 80, friction roller mounted vertically above 79.
through which the horizontal movements in the direction of the feed are obtained;
81, flat spring fixed on arm 71, and bearing against the arm of lever, to produce.
its return horizontal movement. The cam 2 is triple acting, to produce the move-
ments above referred to; it is secured on shaft. 7 by a set screw 82. 1, overcasting
looper secured by a screw 83 to lever. The arm pivoted at 73 may be replaced
by a slide similar to either of those before referred to working on a support east on
the machine frame, all the other parts remaining the same, except that the form of
the cam 2 would be modified to suit this alteration.
-
In Figures 31, 32, 33, and 34. is shown another arrangement, in which the
vibrating movement in Figures 14, 15, 16, 17, and 18, is replaced by a rectilinear
sliding movement, while the effect of the reacting spring 81 is obtained by making
à lateral groove in the cam, for which purpose the fork TG is provided with a lever
76 having a friction roller 80 at its extremity working in a sinuous groove in the
triple acting cam 2; z is the overeasting looper and 79 its friction roller; 75 is a
rod sliding in bearings 75% and 753 on a plate 75, and on it is fixed a foot 71 by a
socket 71% through which rod 75 passes and set screws 713. The socket 714, in
which turns the pivot 763 of fork 76, is formed on the foot 71; 75, bracket on the
machine framing, upon which the whole of the above mechanism is mounted. Tho'
bracket and plate 75 are both mortised to receive the socket. 71*.
In the arrangement shown in Figures 31 and 32 greater length is given, both to
the feed and looper slides in order to reduce the extent to which the parts
overhang the machine, and consequently lessen the vibration when working at high
speed.
In order to enable the work to be placed between the feed jaws with one finger of
the left hand, the upper jaw 35 is opened by the eccentric lever 84. If however
this operation he performed at the moment when the looper has descended behind
said jaw, the looper would be subjected to pressure, which might throw it out of
position; and to avoid all accidents of this nature, there is formed upon the boss of
The main feed cam 10 a swell 85 to bear upon the upper jaw 35 and prevent it
being opened during the time the looper 1 is behind said jaw.
In the wheel feed machines in common use the work is only held below the point
at which the needle-enters, and it consequently often happens that the work yields
and is pressed down by the needle, especially when the point of the needle is blunt
or the leather is very thin and supple, and the needle passes over instead of through
the work, and being thus forced out of its proper path, it is caught and broken
by the looper, involving loss of the needle, of time, and an additional join in the
sewing.
All the above objections are obviated by the improvements herein adopted. In
the first place, the upper edge of the jaw 35 is made to rise above the level of the
needle 2, and is flush with the edges of the work, which is thus kept perfectly
straight, and a vertical notch SG, slightly extended downwards below the needle, is
made in the jaw to avoid nipping the thread. Figures 28 and 30 show this notch
enlarged for the sake of clearness. This notch it will be seen is extended horizontally
to admit of the free passage of the neelle, which always has a portion of the jaw
above it, to prevent it rising and being caught by the looper. The horizontal
portion of the notch should equal the length of the largest stitch it is required to
"
}

page_text: produce in the machine; it is here that the feed mechanism moving always from the
same starting point, as before described, is found of advantage. When the feed is at
its initial position, the short horizontal arm beneath which the needle passes, should
hardly cover it, as seen in Figures 28 and 29, so that when the needle is withdrawn
and the looper 1 casts the loop over behind the jaw; the loop shall not be caught
on the point of this arm; it is only when the needle enters the work, the feed being
advanced, that it assumes the position indicated in Figure 30, whereupon the object
sought is attained.
In order to reduce the course of the needle thread, the arrangement, Figure 3.1.
is adopted, which consists in passing the thread through an oval hole in the needle
carrier and inclining forward the rod of the take up spring 90. By this arrange-
ment the friction of the thread in the guides is reduced, and it is less liable to
become frayed.
Having described the nature of the said Invention, and the manner of performing
the same. I declare that what I claim as the Invention to be protected by the herein-
before in part recited Letters Patent is,
1st. Constructing the lever which carries the feed wheel e in such manner as to
pass within the machine frame, and permit of holding the work with both hands
whilst placing it between the feed wheels.
2nd. The arrangement of the said lever which carries the feed wheel and the
operation thereof by a cam, whereby the feed wheels are separated intermittently,
i.e., after each stitch, to a regulated extent.
3rd. The arrangement of needle guide described and represented in Figures 5, 6.
7, 8, and 9, which is provided with () a shoulder to support the work above the
feed against the point of the needle; (b), a groove for the neelle, to prevent
the latter being caught and broken by the looper; and (e) a horizontal flange, to
form a guide for the edge of the work and ensure regularity in the depth of the
stitching.
4th. The needle carrier bent to a semicircular form and embracing the eccentric,
which, as well as the needle, work in the axial line of the carrier.
5th. The thread-nipping device on the needle carrier acting intermittently and
fullfilling two functions. viz.. to make the needle as it rises throw out a loop for the
looper to seize, and to nip the thread as the needle enters the work, in order to
draw the thread from the previous stitch tight and allow of sewing with a slack
tension.
6th. Passing the needle thread perpendicularly through the needle carrier, in
order to reduce the length of thread subject to friction by the motion of the
needle.
7th. The three improved arrangements of feed jaws, in which the two jaws are
connected and actuated by the same cam, so as to avoid puckering, gathering, or
otherwise injuring the work.
8th. The mechanism for operating the feed jaws without the intervention of levers
or tappets for regulating the length of stitch and obtaining a smooth and silent
feed, said mechanism consisting in the combination of a cam, screw, two slides, two
friction rollers, and two reacting springs, as shown and described.
9th. The device for detaching the leather from one of the feed jaws, in the event
of its adhering thereto, by the pressure of the other jaw.
10th. The two arrangements of the looper, in one of which, shown in Figures 16.
17, and 18, three vibratory movements are produced and a single spring is employed,
while in the other arrangement. shown in Figures 31, 32, 33, and 34. two
vibratory movements and "one sliding movement are produced without the use of
any spring.
•
11th. The safety cam for preventing the movable feed jaw striking the looper.
12th. The vertical and horizontal notch in the upper feed jaw acting in com-
bination with other mechanism to prevent the needle caught and broken by the
looner

page_text: 13th. The employment together of the several combinations herein shown and
described, and their application to machines producing a whip-stitch, either with the
aid of a looper or shuttle, for sewing gloves, and other analogous uses.
In witness whereof, I, the said Alexander Melville Clark, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Twenty-second day of September, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-seven.
A. M. CLARK. (...)