A MACHINE FOR 'SAVING' OR COVERING THE LISTS OR EDGES OF FABRICS
Year: 1866

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to George Hinchliffe, of Halifax, in the County of
York, for the Invention of "A MACHINE FOR 'SAVING' OR COVERING THE
LISTS OR EDGES OF FABRICS!"
Sealed the 20th July 1866, and dated the 24th January 1866.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said George Hinchliffe at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition; on
the 24th January 1866.
I, GEORGE HINCHLIFFE, of Halifax, in the County of York, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention for "A MACHINE FOR 'SAVING'
COVERING THE LISTS OR EDGES OF FABRICS," to be as follows:-
This Invention relates to machines to be employed for saving or cover-
ing the lists or edges of fabrics to be dyed to prevent the said lists or
edges from taking the dye along with the body of the fabric, and techni-
cally known' as "saving." The preparation of fabrics or pieces for this
purpose is ordinarily effected by hand labor by first folding or turning
the list over or around a cord of sufficient thickness or diameter that its
circumference is equal or nearly so to the breadth of the list; then a web
of close woven fabric of suitable width or breadth is folded over the said
list or edge and cord, which is stitched or fastened thereon by means of a
needle and strong thread or cord by being passed through the fabric and

page_text: around the web or cover, thus binding it tightly on the list or edge of the
fabric.
My Invention consists in constructing a machine or apparatus for this
purpose, comprising a tubular guide or guides through which the list or
edge, with the cord and web or cover, are caused to pass (a slit being
formed in the guide or guides to allow the fabric to pass along), by which
the list or edge and web are folded on the cord and placed in proper
condition to be secured by thread or cord. The guide folds or turns the
edge of the list outward to obtain an effect thereon known as "feathering,"
which is having small portions of the edge of the list alternately dyed and
left undyed; the fabric with its list thus folded and covered is drawn
forward intermittently by a pair of toothed rollers acting on the folded list
or edge, and a needle attached to a slidable bar having intermittent reci-
procating motion imparted to it by tappet or cam groove passes thread or
cord conveyed by guides from a bobbin through the fabric close to the
folded list or edge. . On the return of the needle a loop is formed of the
thread or cord, which is caught by a hooked carrier having an intermittent
oscillatory or partial circular motion given to it by tappet or cam operating
at the proper time a slidable rack, which acts upon a toothed wheel fixed
on the axis or spindle of the hooked carrier, by which the loop is carried
around the covered list or edge to the contrary side of the fabric and held
in suitable position for the needle at its next stroke to pass through the
loop. and thus secure it. On the return of the needle another loop is
formed and caught by the hooked carrier (which has also returned), and
is again carried around the folded list or edge to be secured by the next
insertion of the needle.
By means of this Invention the process of "saving" or covering can
be effected with great facility and regularity, and the unloosening or
removal of the web afterwards is also effected easily and rapidly.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed 30
by the said George Hinchliffe in the Great-Seal Patent Office on the
24th July 1866.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, GEORGE
HINCHLIFFE, of Halifax, in the County of York, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters 35
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-fourth day of January, in the year of our

page_text: Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-six, in the twenty-ninth
year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and
grant unto me, the said George Hinchliffe, Her special licence that I, the
said George Hinchliffe, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such
others as I, the said George Hinchliffe, my executors, administrators, and
assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time
and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and
lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom
of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an
Invention for "A MACHINE FOR SAVING OR COVERING THE LISTS OR EDGES OF
FABRICS," upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said George
Hinchliffe, my executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing
under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly
describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner
the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great
Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately after
the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said George Hinchliffe, do hereby declare
the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to
be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement and accompanying Sheets of Drawings (that is to
say).
This Invention relates to machines to be employed for saving or covering
the lists or edges of fabrics to be dyed to prevent the said lists or edges
from taking the dye along with the body of the fabric, and technically
known as "saving." The preparation of fabrics or pieces for this purpose
is ordinarily effected by hand labour by first folding or turning the list
over or around a cord of sufficient thickness or diameter that its circum-
ference is equal or nearly so to the breadth of the list; then a web of
close woven fabric of suitable width or breadth is folded over the said
list or edge and cord, which is stitched or fastened thereon by means of a
needle and strong thread being passed through the fabric and around the
web or-cover, thus binding it tightly on the list or edge.
My Invention consists in constructing a machine or apparatus for this
purpose comprising a tubular guide or guides through which the list or
edge of the fabric, with the cord and the web or cover, are caused to pass
(a slit being formed in the guide or guides to allow the fabric to pass
along), by which the list or edge and web are folded on the cord and
placed in proper condition and position to be secured by thread or cord.

page_text: The guide or guides may be formed so as to fold or turn the edge of the
list outward to obtain an effect thereon known as "feathering," which is
having small portions of the edge of the list alternately dyed and undyed.
The fabric with its list thus folded and covered, is drawn forward inter-
mittently by a pair of toothed rollers acting on the folded list or edge; a
needle attached to a slidable bar having intermittent reciprocating motion
imparted to it by tappet or cam groove passes thread or cord conveyed by
guides from a bobbin through the fabric close to the folded list or edge.
On return of the needle a loop is formed of the thread or cord, which is
caught by a hooked carrier having an intermittent oscillatory or partial
circular motion given to it by tappet-or cam operating at the proper time
a slidable rack, which acts upon a toothed wheel fixed on the axis or
spindle of the hooked carrier, by which the loop is carried around the
covered list or edge to the contrary side of the fabric and held in suitable
position for the needle at its next stroke to pass through the loop and thus
secure it.
On the return of the needle another loop is formed and caught
by the hooked carrier (which has also returned), and is again carried
around the folded list or edge to be secured by the next insertion of the.
needle.
By means of this Invention the process of "saving" or covering.can
be effected with great facility and regularity, and the unloosening or
removal of the web afterwards is also effected easily and rapidly.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.
Fig. 1 is a front elevation, Fig. 2 a plan, Fig. 3 an end elevation, and
Fig. 4. the back elevation of a machine constructed according to this
Invention.
. A is the stand, frame, or table to which the several bearing parts are
fixed; B is a shaft on which are fixed the cams or tappets C and D, and a
gear wheel E for communicating motion to the various working parts of
the machine by means of the hand wheel F; or by the pulley F, which
can readily be thrown into or out of gear. or frictional contact with each,
other by the lever and clutch F, so as to work the machine either by hand
or by power. G is the tubular guide or guides composed of several parts,
G', forming a guide for the cord, G2 a guide for the fabric, and G³ a guide
for the web to pass through. These guides are shewn more clearly in,
full-size Drawings at Figs. 5, 6, 7, and 8; where Fig. 5 is a side elevation,
Fig. 6 a longitudonal section, Fig. 7 a cross section, and, Fig. 8. an, end,
view. H and H. are a pair of spiked wheels or toothed rollers for drawing

page_text: with
the fabric through the machine as fast as the web is sewn thereon, which
wheels or rollers are operated intermittently by means of a worm wheel or
cam I fixed on the shaft I', on which is also a bevil wheel E' in
gear
the bevil wheel E. This worm or cam shewn in full-sized developement
at Fig. 9. The needle J is fixed on a slidable carrier J', on which is a pin
with friction roller Js entering a cam groove c in the cam or tappet C, by
which intermittent reciprocatory motion is given to the needle. Thread
is supplied to the needle from a bobbin K passing through guide eyes
K', K, and K; K being a spring to regulate the tension or take up the
slack thread or cord. The cord is supplied from a bobbin L passing
through a guide M to the guide G'. The web is guided by and drawn
through eyes N and N₁ to the guide G. The hooked carrier P has a
tooth wheel on its axis gearing into a slidable rack R, which is operated
by a cam grooved in the cam D. These parts are shewn full size at
Figs. 10, 11, and 12. S is another guide placed immediately before the
needle to hold the web firmly in proper position on the fabric whilst the
stitch is made, and shewn full size at Figs. 13 and 14. The guides herein-
before shewn and described are employed to produce effect known as
"feathering" or the feathered edge of the list. Figs. 15 and 16 are guides
employed for the purpose of forming the lists not required to shew a
feathered edge, and known as. " rolled lists." Fig. 17 is a guide to hold the
web in position before the needle for this purpose, in the same manner as
Fig. 13 does for the feathered lists. Fig. 18 is a cross section of a
feathered list as when prepared for dyeing, and Figs. 19 and 20 are the
two side views shewing the kind of stitch produced by this machine. Fig.
21 is a cross section of a rolled list or list prepared to be dyed without a
feathered edge.
The manner of working this machine is as follows:-I thread the cord
through its guide G', and the web through its guide G; I then turn the
edge of the fabric over the tube G₁ which forms the guide G* for the said
fabric, and also upon the feeding frame or guide G*, holding it thereon in
suitable order with the hand; then passing all together betwixt the toothed
rollers, which I press upon the roll by means of the hand wheel and screw
H³, so as to nip thereon and draw the fabric forward when motion is given
to the machine. I then pass the sewing thread or cord through the guides
K, K, K³, and through the eye of the needle; which being done the
machine is then ready for action. It will now be perceived that by turning
the shaft B, either by means of hand or power, the needle will be passed
through the fabric immediately under the roll, and on the return thereof

page_text: form a loop of the thread on the opposite side of the fabric when at the
precise time of its formation the hooked carrier is operated and caused to
turn on its axis, the hook taking into the loop and carrying it over the edge
of the roll to the needle side, and holding it there in position, so that on
the next insertion of the needle it will pass through the said loop and
fabric, when another loop will be formed, caught by the hooked carrier,
and turned over the roll ready for the next insertion of the needle, and so
on, the toothed rollers drawing the fabric forward a suitable distance at
each stitch.
In witness whereof, I, the said George Hinchliffe have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Twenty-first day of July, One thousand
eight hundred and sixty-six.
GEORGE HINCHLIFFE. (L.s.)
Signed, sealed, and delivered by the
within-named George Hinchliffe in
the presence of
WM. TASKER,
Patent Agent,
Halifax.