An Improved Method of and Apparatus for Manufacturing Waved, Shaded, Watered, and like Woven Fabrics.
Year: 1895

page_text: "Date of Application, 30th Jan., 1895
Complete Specification Left, 30th Oct., 1895-Accepted, 14th Dec., 1895
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION..
An Improved Method of and Apparatus for Manufacturing Waved,
Shaded, Watered, and like Woven Fabrics.
I, JEAN DIETSCH, of Löberau, Alsace, in the Empire of Germany, Manufacturer,
do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
My invention relates to a method of and apparatus for manufacturing waved,
shaded, watered or like woven fabrics in ordinary looms and is based upon the fact
that the intermediate spaces between the warp threads are changed in the beating
of the weft up to the web.
The improved apparatus comprises a reed whose dents are changed relatively to
each other in shape and direction according to the kind of fabric to be produced.
When this reed receives an upward and downward movement it will be seen that,
if for instance the reed beats the weft up to the web at the height of a line above
the middle, the closeness of the warp threads below some dents will be less than
that of the warp threads situated below other dents. This difference diminishes.or
disappears altogether if the reed beats the weft against the web at the height of a
line in the middle, and appears again if the reed beats the weft up to the web
below the middle.
In this manner it is possible to produce an unlimited number of designs, either
by changing the form of the dents or by changing the position and form of the
several dents, or by a more rapid or slow upward and downward movement of the
reed.
For moving the reed upwards and downwards I employ a device which consists
of two frames arranged laterally on the loom and adapted to slide in guide bars.
On one of these frames are two pulleys which rest upon an eccentric. A ratchet
wheel is-connected with this eccentric and serves for actuating the same.
The two
frames are connected by a beam. Upon this beam bear loosely the front ends of
two bars, while the rear ends are pivoted to a support. If now the ratchet wheel
is turned the eccentric will raise the frame and also the said 'bars so that they move
about their pivots. On the bars move two rollers secured to the beam of the lathe
by means of screws; the lathe is provided on its lateral walls with springs which
can slide upwards and downwards in grooves formed in holders. 'The reed is slid
into the lathe in the well-known manner.
When the ratchet wheel is turned the bars will move the lathe and thus also the
reed more or less upwards or allow them to move downwards again. The lathe
may beat the weft against the web in the well-known manner, because it is movable
in the grooves of the said holders. In this case the lathe moves along the bars by
means of the aforesaid rollers.
By the upward and downward movement of the bars in which the lathe and the
reed must take part, the reed comes in contact with the fabric at different heights
and in consequence of the different positions of the dents displaces the warp
threads in a transverse direction, thereby producing waved; shaded, watered and
similar fabrics.
Dated this 30th day of January 1895.

page_text: An Improved Method of and Apparatus for Manufacturing Waved,
Shaded, Watered, and like Woven Fabrics.
I, JEAN DIETSCH, of Löberau, Alsace, in the Empire of Germany, Manufacturer,
do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same
is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement :-
My invention relates to a method of and apparatus for manufacturing waved,
shaded, watered or like woven fabrics in ordinary looms and is based upon the fact
that the intermediate spaces between the warp threads are changed in the beating
of the weft up to the web.
My improved apparatus is shown in the accompanying drawing in which
Figure 1 shows an elevation of a reed.
Figure 2 shows several kinds or forms of teeth of a reed.
Figure 3 is a front view of the device for displacing the reed together with a
loom appertaining thereto..
Figure 4 is a side view thereof.
Figure 5 shows a view of the apparatus from above and
Figure 6 is a view of the lathe with a reed from which the mode of raising the
lathe will be understood.
The improved apparatus comprises a reed (Figure 1) whose dents are changed
relatively to each other in shape and direction according to the kind of fabric to be.
produced. When this reed receives an upward and downward movement it will be
seen that, if for instance the reed beats the weft up to the web at the height of a
line B C above, the closeness of the warp threads below the teeth L will be less
than that of the warp threads situated below the dents M. This difference
diminishes or disappears altogether if the reed beats the weft against the web at
the height of a line D E in the middle and appears again if the reed beats the weft
up to the web at the line F G below the middle.
In this manner it is possible to produce an unlimited number of designs, either
by changing the form of the dents as shown for instance at O P R S Figure 2, by
changing the position and form of the several dents, or by a more rapid or slow
upward and downward movement of the reed.
For moving the reed upwards and downwards I employ a device which consists
of two frames a a¹ Figures 3 and 4 arranged laterally on the loom and adapted to
slide in guide bars, bbbb. On one of these frames a are two rollers e and f
which rest upon an eccentric or cam d. A ratchet wheel c is connected with this
eccentric or cam d and serves for actuating the same. The two frames are connected
by a beam j. Upon this beam bear loosely the front ends s of two bars h, while
the rear ends are pivoted to a support i. If now the ratchet wheel c is turned the
eccentric or cam d will raise the frame a a¹ and also the said bars / so that they
move about their pivots ¹. On the bars h move two rollers k k arranged on the
pieces y y' secured to the beam 22 of the lathe by means of screws; the lathe ¹ is
provided on its lateral walls with tenons oo' which can slide upwards and downwards
in grooves p p formed in holders w w¹. The reed is slid into the lathe ¹ in the
well-known manner.
When the ratchet wheel c is turned the bars will move the lathe and thus
also the reed more or less upwards or allow them to move downwards again. The
lathe may beat the weft against the web in the well-known manner, because it is
movable in the grooves p p¹ of the said holders w w¹. In this case the lathe moves
along the bars h by means of the aforesaid rollers k k¹.
By the upward and downward movement of the bars h, in which the lathe and
the reed must take part, the reed comes in contact with the fabric at different
"

page_text: heights and in consequence of the different positions of the dents displaces the
warp threads in a transverse direction, thereby producing waved, shaded, watered
and similar fabrics.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what.
I claim is :-
:-
1. An improved method of producing waved, shaded, watered or like fabric in
looms, in which method the desired effect is obtained by the displacement of the
warp threads, in such a manner that, during the weaving operation a reed is lifted
and lowered by an appropriate moving mechanism, the dents of which reed, all
lying in one plane, are either arranged obliquely, or are arranged to form a curve
or are broken angularly according to the kind of fabric to be produced.
2. For carrying out the method described in the first claim, the construction of
the device for lifting and lowering the reeds, in such a manner that by the action.
of a ratchet wheel c, an eccentric d is actuated, whereby a frame a a¹ supported on
rollers ef and guided by rods bbbb, is set in motion and the bars h resting thereon,
are lifted and lowered, during which operation the lathe z', which slides by the aid
of grooves and tenons o o¹ p p' in holders or supports wwl and which rests upon
the bars on rollers kk, the latter being fixed to the lathe by means of the
pieces y y' follows the up and down movement so that while the weft is beaten
against the web, the reed will owing to the variously shaped dents, displace the
warp threads in direction of their width.
Dated this 30th day of October 1895.
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
45 Southampton Buildings, London, W.C., Agents for the Applicant.