Improvements in the Manufacture of Fancy Woven Fabrics.
Year: 1898

page_text: PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Fancy Woven Fabrics.
I, JAMES WILDING, Director of the Firm of Wilding Brothers Limited, Alex-
andra Mill, Preston, Lancashire, Cotton Manufacturer, do hereby declare the
nature of this invention to be as follows:-
2
The improvements relate to the manufacture of fancy woven fabrics, and have
for object to so weave the same as to form imitation pleats folds or tucks upon
the surface thereof, in combination or alternation with leno, openwork, cords,
sateens, or other fancy weaving, in addition to or in lieu of the plain or tabby
which is ordinarily employed in these imitation pleated goods.
To accomplish this and to effect my improvements, I employ a dobby or other
like motion, whereby, when it is desired to weave a tuck in the fabric, a double
shed is formed, and a double fabric is enabled to be woven in manner as will
be well understood, for a distance varying according to the width of the pleat
desired.
In the intervals between the pleats thus formed, or such portion of them as
may be desired, I weave either leno, or other openwork, with cord, sateen, or
other fancy weaving effects, alone or in combination.
To enable this to be done, I provide a variable tension motion for the, warps,
so that the same may be slackened while the double fabric forming the pleat is
in the process of weaving, and tightened again during other portions of the
'manufacture, in addition to the ordinary slack tension motion of the doup warps.
The intervals between the imitation pleats may be greatly varied in extent,
and may be woven uniformly throughout the length of the fabric, or in groups
for special fabrics.
The dobby or other apparatus for effecting the weaving of the pleats or tucks,
together with the leno or other openwork or fancy alternations, may be put in
and out of action, as likewise the requisite tension motions, either by the dobby
itself in some cases, or any other ordinary measuring apparatus in any well
known manner, and other variations in detail may be made without departing
from the peculiar character of the invention.
Dated this 31st day of October 1898.
WILLIAM GADD, C.E.,
64, Barton Arcade, Manchester, Agent for Applicant.

page_text: Improvements in the Manufacture of Fancy Woven Fabrics.
I, JAMES WILDING, Director of the Firm of Wilding Brothers Limited, Alex-
andra Mill, Preston, Lancashire, Cotton Manufacturer, do hereby declare the
nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement:—
The improvements relate to the manufacture of fancy woven fabrics, and have
for object to so weave the same as to form imitation pleats folds or tucks upon
the surface thereof, in, combination, or alternation with leno, openwork, cords,
sateens, or other fancy weaving, in addition to or in lieu of the plain or tabby
which is ordinarily employed in these imitation pleated goods.
To accomplish this and to effect my improvements, I employ a dobby or other
like motion, whereby, when it is desired to weave a tuck in the fabric, a double
shed is formed, and a double fabric is enabled to be woven in manner as will
be well understood, for a distance varying according to the width of the pleat
desired.
In the intervals between the pleats thus formed, or such portion of them as
may be desired, I weave either leno, or other openwork, with cord, sateen, or
other fancy weaving effects, alone or in combination.
To enable this to be done, I provide a variable tension motion for the warps,
so that the same may be slackened while the double fabric forming the pleat is
in the process of weaving, and tightened again during other portions of the
manufacture, in addition to the ordinary slack tension motion of the doup warps.
The intervals between the imitation pleats may be greatly varied in extent,
and may be woven uniformly throughout the length of the fabric, or in groups
for special fabrics.
The dobby or other apparatus for effecting the weaving of the pleats or tucks,
together with the leno or other openwork or fancy alternations, may be put in
and out of action, as likewise the requisite tension motions, either by the dobby
itself in some cases, or any other ordinary measuring apparatus in any well
known manner.
But that the improvements may be better understood I will, with the aid of
the accompanying drawings, proceed more fully to describe means employed by
me.
DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS.
Figs. 1, 2, and 3 represent pieces of woven fabrics manufactured according to
some forms of my improvements.
The same letters indicate corresponding parts wherever they occur.
a is the body of the fabric which is so woven as to have imitation pleats folds
or tucks b formed upon its surface, in combination or alternation with leno,
openwork, cords, sateens, or other fancy weaving c, in addition to or in lieu of
the plain or tabby which is ordinarily employed in these imitation pleated goods.
In Fig. 1 the fabric is shown formed all over the piece with imitation pleats
folds or tucks 6 alternating with fancy weaving c. In Fig. 2 the imitation
tucks combined with the fancy weaving are shown in groups upon the fabric,
while in Fig. 3 the imitation tucks b and fancy weaving are shown in combination
with a band or stripe a¹, and in which figure the tucks are not all of the same
width. Although in all the figures the imitation-tucks 6 are shown alternating
with fancy weaving c, it is evident that the two may be otherwise combined, and
that different effects may also be obtained by varying the widths of the imitation
pleats folds or tucks and the extent of the fancy weaving, together with the

page_text: number of pleats in a group, without departing from the peculiar character of
the invention.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is:-
A woven fabric formed with imitation pleats folds or tucks upon the surface
thereof in combination with leno openwork cords sateens or other fancy weaving,
for the purpose and in manner substantially as herein shown and described.
Dated this 21st day of July 1899.
WILLIAM GADD, C.E.,
64, Barton Arcade, Manchester, Agent for Applicant.