Improvements in Sewing Machines.
Year: 1897

page_text: Date of Application, 5th Oct., 1897-Accepted, 5th Feb., 1898
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Sewing Machines.
I, ALPHONSE HART KURSHEEDT, of 168 West 78th Street, in the City, County,
and State of New York, United States of America, Manufacturer, do hereby declare
the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to
be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement:―
My invention relates to sewing machines and has for its object to produce a
combination of devices which will sew spangles upon fabrics, performing the opera-
tions of feeding the spangles, sewing the spangles to the fabric and advancing the
work.
To this end the invention consists in the construction and arrangement of devices
by which I am enabled to perform the operations of feeding and sewing spangles
upon fabric and advancing the work.
The invention will be understood by reference to the accompanying drawings,
in which:-
:―
Figure 1 is a side elevation partly broken away, of a two-thread sewing machine
embodying the invention;
Figure 2 is a side elevation of the same machine, the elevation being taken from
a direction opposite to the direction of view in Figure 1;
Figure 3, Sheet 3, is an under-side plan of the driving devices which are arranged
beneath the bed or work plate of the sewing machine;
Figure 4, Sheet 4, is a detail sectional view partly broken away, illustrating the
mechanism for transmitting motion from the main cam shaft of the sewing machine
to the feed rock shaft which operates to advance the work, shewing also the means
for regulating the length of the feed;
Figure is a detail plan view of the mechanism which operates directly to
advance the work and to effect the feed of the spangles into the path of the needle;
Figures 6 and 7 are elevations taken at right angles to each other of a detail
of the spangle feeding mechanism;
Figure 8 is a plan view of one member thereof;
Figure 9 is a plan view of another member of the same mechanism;
Figure 10 is an elevation of the feeding foot of the machine;
Figure 11 is a plan view thereof;
Figure 12 is an elevation of the work-holding presser foot which operates to hold
the spangle against the work and to hold the work when the feeding foot is lifted;
Figure 13 is an elevation of a detail of the feeding or work advancing
mechanism;
Figure 14 is a plan view of another detail thereof;
Figure 15 is a section on line 15-15 of Figure 14;
Figure 16 is a detail view of a connection between the work-holding presser
foot shewn in Figure 12 and its operating arm;
Figure 17 represents a specimen of the work performed by the machine;
Figure 18 is a section through the same, drawn to a larger scale;
Figure 19 is a perspective view of the spangle feeding mechanism and Figure 20

page_text: an underside perspective view of the spangle guide arm, both these figures being
drawn to a larger scale.
Stated generally the machine which I have illustrated consists of a sewing
mechanism which may be of the ordinary kind and which I have illustrated as a
two-thread sewing machine of the Wheeler & Wilson type, a feeding mechanism
for feeding the spangles to the sewing mechanism, a work advancing mechanism
which is shewn in the present instance as a universal feeding foot which is
operated by suitable mechanism upon lines radiating from a common centre, and
mechanism for lifting the feeding foot and mechanism for regulating the extent
and the direction of the throw of the feeding. foot.
Referring to the accompanying drawings which form part hereof and in which
like letters of reference indicate, the same parts, I will proceed to describe the
various co-operating elements.
The sewing mechanism, as before stated, may consist of an ordinary sewing
machine. In the present instance A represents the arm of the sewing machine,
Bits. base or work plate, C the driving shaft which is driven by a pulley D fast
thereon. E is the main cam shaft which is driven from the main shaft by con-
necting rods F. G is the needle bar which is operated in the usual manner. H is
a shuttle of the sewing machine which is supported in the usual manner and driven
from the main cam shaft. The sewing is effected by the motions of the needle
and bobbin as in the ordinary Wheeler and Wilson Sewing Machine. The machine
is also provided with a feed rock shaft I, which operates the work advancing
mechanism. J (Figure 2) is the feeding foot which is carried by the rod J¹ which
is connected to the swivelled rod J2, the free end of which is connected to the
rod J3 on which is a collar J', a coiled spring J5 intervening between the collar J
and the rod J2 for the purpose of assisting in restoring the parts to position.
Mounted upon the main cam shaft E is a cam E¹ (Figures 2 and 3) with which
co-operates an arm Jo mounted upon a rock shaft J7 carrying the collar J8 from
which extends an arm J9 which is connected to the lower end of the rod J³. The
parts just described are for the purpose of lowering and raising the feeding foot J.
This is effected during normal operation of the sewing machine by the rotation
of the main cam shaft which rocks the arm Jo by means of the cam E', thereby
rocking shaft J7 and pulling upon the rod J³. J10 is a presser foot which is
carried by a reciprocating bar J30 which works in the arm A of the sewing machine.
This reciprocating rod J30 carries a collar J40 and is surrounded by a spiral
spring J50 which bears against some fixed part of the arm (not shewn) of the sewing
machine. Pivoted in a bracket J" is an arm J12.shewn in Figures 1, 2,-and 16:
the forward end of this arm J12 extends into the arm of the sewing machine and
contacts with the collar J40 on the reciprocating rod J30. The rear end of the
arm J¹ extends into engagement with the cam J13 on the main shaft of the sewing
machine. During normal operation of the sewing machine the cam J3 swings
the arm J on its pivot, thereby raising and lowering the presser foot Jo. The
spangles are fed to the needle by suitable spangle-feeding mechanism which is
shewn in the present instance as consisting of the following elements: A sleeve G¹
is carried by a bar G2 through the medium of a connecting plate G³, (see Figure 5)
within which sleeve a spindle G works. Carried upon the lower end of the
sleeve G¹ is a spangle guide or guiding arm G5 which is provided upon its lower
face with a friction spring Go and is slotted as at G7 for the passage of the needle.
This sleeve and spangle guide remain stationary. Carried upon the end of the
spindle G is a spangle carrier G8 which is provided with an arm G9 in which a
socket G10 is sunk, the end of the arm being slotted as at G" which slot extends
to about the centre of the socket. This socket is of the proper size to receive a
spangle. Carried upon the upper end of the spindle G is a crank G2 which is
connected by link G13 with a crank G14 (see Figures 1 and 5) carried by a vertical
spindle G upon which is carried a bevel gear G16 which meshes with the bevel
gear G on the main cam shaft (see Figures 1 and 3). The spangle guide G5 is
apertured as at G18 for the reception of a removable tube G (Figure 1) which
و"

page_text: serves to conduct the spangles. A presser rod may be placed in tube G¹ to bear
on the spangles contained in the tube and feed or force them downwards.
:
The operation of the spangle-feeding mechanism is as follows:-The spangles
are fed into the tube G19 generally in rouleaux, and are conducted by the tube to
the spangle guide. The socket Gio being beneath the aperture G18 of the spangle
guide the lowermost spangle falls into the socket G10 of the spangle carrier. G8
and as the main cam shaft revolves, it turns the spindle G15 and through the
medium of the cranks G1 and G2 and the link G13, rocks the spindle G and swings
the spangle carrier until the spangle comes into the path of the descending needle
which passes through the eye thereof (see Figure 17) and transfers the spangle
from the socket Go to the fabric where it is held in place by the presser foot, the
needle carrying its thread 3 through the eye 4 of the spangle 2 the lower thread 5
interlocking with the needle thread 3 (see Figures 17 and 18). As the needle
rises, the spangle carrier is swung by its moving mechanism into its original
position, bringing the socket Go thereof again into its original position beneath
the aperture G8 in the spangle guide. These operations are repeated each time
a spangle is to be sewn, the spring Go serving to hold the spangle in its socket Glo
in the spangle carrier as the latter swings, to bring the spangle into the path of
the descending needle. The advance of the work is effected by swinging the feed-
ing foot. This swinging is effected by the following work-advancing mechanism: -
Referring particularly to Figures 1, 2, and 5, it will be seen that the rod Ji
which carries the feeding foot, is engaged by the end of a link B¹ which is pro-
vided with an aperture 136 at the opposite end. This link B₁is pivoted to a
swinging link B which in turn is pivoted to a plate 133 carried upon the bar G2
and works in guides B B5. The form of the aperture in the end of the link B¹
is shewn in Figures 14 and 15 as consisting of two frusto-conical recesses joined
by their narrowest parts. Working in this aperture is an inclined pin B7 which
is shewn in the present instance as carried upon the head B8 of a vertical spindle B³
and inclined at an angle of about 60°.
It will be observed that the particular form of the aperture B6 in the link B¹
provides circular oppositely extending cam faces against which the upper and
lower sides of the pin B7 bear at all times. By this means an upward movement
of the spindle B will cause the upper side of the pin B7 to bear against the lower
cam face of the aperture B6 and cause the link to be moved in one direction. When
the spindle B is again lowered, the under face of the pin B7 bears against the
upper cam face of the aperture B6 and causes the link to be moved in the opposite
direction; the pin 137 at the same time may be rotated in the aperture B without
affecting the movement produced by the vertical movement of the spindle B.
Referring particularly to the enlarged detail view, Figure 13, it will be seen that
this vertical spindle carries at its opposite end a gear 1310, which is also seen in
Figures 1, 2, and 3. Two fast collars B and B are also carried upon the vertical
spindle B, between which collars the spindle carries a loose sleeve B13 on which
is a pin B14 which enters the crank B315 mounted upon the rock shaft I. Mounted
also upon rock shaft I (see Figure 4) is a crank or arm H¹ to which is connected
a link H2 which is provided with a bowl H3 which enters a slot H' in a yoke H5
which is pivoted at H and provided with arms H7 which embrace the cam H³
carried upon the main cam shaft E.
The operation of the work advancing mechanism is as follows:-As the main
cam shaft rotates it will, through the medium of the cam H8, rock the yoke H;
cause the said yoke to pull upon the link H2 to rock the shaft I which, through
the medium of the arm or crank B15, will raise and lower the vertical spindle B³
causing the inclined pin B7 to reciprocate the link B' by its cam action upon the
said link thereby swinging the feeding foot back and forth. The feeding foot
carries the cloth with it and is automatically raised as soon as the cloth has been
advanced so that when the feeding foot is drawn back by the return reciprocation
of the link B it will move freely over the work and will be dropped upon the
work when it has returned to its initial position, the movements of the feeding

page_text: foot lifting mechanism being so timed with respect to the movement of the link,
as to effect these operations.
The length of the forward feed of the work and consequently the space between
the centres of the various spangles is regulated by the following described regulat-
ing mechanism, in describing which, reference is had particularly to Figures 1
and 4. Pivoted to a link H2 is a link H9 which is pivoted at its upper end to an
arm Ho mounted upon a shaft H", which is shewn in Figure 1 as journalled in
the arm A of the sewing machine and terminating at one end in a button H¹a on
the outside of the arm so that the turning of the button will rock the shaft H
and raise or lower the link H thereby swinging the link H2 on its pivot (which
is its connection with the arm H¹) thereby moving the bowl along the slot H*
in the yoke H³ to a point more or less distant from the centre of swing of the yoke,
that is to say the pivot H, so that the distance of the bowl from the centre of
swing of the yoke may be efficiently regulated, it being of course obvious that
the greater the distance between the bowl and the centre of swing of the yoke the
greater will be the throw given by the yoke to the link H2 and thereby trans-
mitted to the arm H' and rock-shaft I, and as the length of the throw of the feeding
foot depends directly upon the length of the reciprocation of the pin B7, and the
length of the reciprocation of the pin B7 depends upon the length of throw of
the shaft I, it follows that the length of throw of the feeding foot can be efficiently
regulated by turning the regulating button H².
There remains now to be described the mechanism for determining the direction
of the feed of the fabric which, as has before been pointed out, is effected by the
swing of the feeding foot. Before proceeding to a detailed description of the
mechanism for determining the direction of swing of the feeding foot, it will be
premised that since the link B' is pivoted and secured at one end to the feeding
foot lifting bar and in engagement with the inclined pin B', it follows that any
movement given to the end of the link B' which is engaged with the pin B',
will be in a sense repeated by the end of the link which engages the presser foot
lifter bar. In the present instance the drawing shews the pin as inclined with
relation to the plane of the length of the link B₁ and the plane of its axis so
that an up and down excursion of the spindle B and pin 17 will cause a reciproca-
tion of the link 131 in the line of its axis. If, however, I rotate the spindle B a
quarter of a revolution and then proceed to reciprocate it, I will in this instance
swing the end of the link B₁ which is in engagement with the pin B7 thereby
swinging the feeding foot to feed the work in a direction at an angle to its
former feed. This direction will, however, not necessarily be in a right line, but
may be on the arc of a circle which has the pivot of the link B as a centre.
Other positions into which the pin may be turned by turning the spindle B³ will
give different directions of throw to the feeding foot so that in order to produce
a throw of the feeding foot in any given direction, the spindle 139 must be turned
to bring the pin B7 in position to effect such movement. It must be remembered
that while the feeding foot is being reciprocated to feed the work the pin has
merely a motion of translation, that is to say an up and down movement and not a
rotary movement. The rotary movement is only given to the spindle B and
the pin B7 at the moment when it is desired to adjust the pin for changing the
direction of feed of the feeding foot. This adjustment is effected by the operator
by means of the handle K which is carried on a spindle K¹ upon which the gear K³
is mounted, which gear meshes with the gear B10 upon spindle 13 so that a swing
of the handle will turn the gear K and thereby also the gear B10 revolving the
spindle B and the pin B7. It will be noted that the gear K³ is enlarged laterally
to secure a constant meshing with the gear B10 during its excursion up and down.
This mechanism for determining the direction of the advancement of the work is
operated only when it is desired to change such direction, for after the pin has
once been set it will continue to reciprocate and feed the work in a given direction
until the handle K has been operated to change the direction of feed.
Having described the detail operation of the various elements which I employ

page_text: I will now proceed to describe their operation seriatim, in order that the capability,
and mode of operation of my sewing machine may be readily understood.
By referring to Figures 17 and 18 it will be noted that I have there shewn a
specimen of the work performed by this machine. These figures designate a
fabric upon which spangles 2, 2, 2, etc., are secured by a needle-thread 3 which
passes through the eyes 4 of the spangles and extends across the face of the spangles.
This thread is, in the present instance, the upper or needle-thread and co-operates
with the lower or shuttle-thread 5 which is on the other side of the cloth. I will
suppose the parts of the machine to be in the positions shewn in Figures 1 and 2
and the main shaft to be revolved. As the main shaft revolves, the spangle
carrier G8 will be swung by the mechanism described and the spangle will be
brought into the path of the descending needle which will remove the spangle
from the socket of the spangle carrier, the spangle travelling to the cloth, closely
followed by the presser foot J10 which bears thereon until the needle is withdrawn
from the spangle. As soon as the stitch has been formed and the needle passes
clear of the fabric, the work-advancing mechanism comes into play and moves the
work through the medium of the feeding foot J the desired distance which is
regulated by previously setting the button H2, and in the desired direction which
is regulated by previously setting the handle K. As soon as the work has been
advanced, the feeding foot is lifted and carried back to its original position and
again dropped upon the cloth. During the excursion of the feeding foot and while
it is returning to its initial position, the presser foot holds the cloth to the work-
table, being lifted from the cloth about the time that the feeding foot returns to
its initial position and is dropped upon the cloth. It will be understood that the
spangle carrier is returned to its original position and when the feeding foot has
again been dropped upon the cloth in its initial position the parts have again
returned to their original positions shewn in the drawings. These operations are
repeated for each spangle, the spacing apart of the spangles and. the direction
of feed, that is to say the configuration formed by the line of spangles, being
regulated from time to time by the appropriate devices.
Now while I have described in concise terms one form of my invention I would
have it understood that I do not wish to limit myself to the construction shewn and
described as the devices, their construction and operation may be changed and
modified by those who may desire to enjoy the fruits of my invention, without
departing from the spirit of my invention.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is:-
-
1. In a spangle sewing machine the combination of an automatic sewing
mechanism, an automatic spangle feeding mechanism for feeding the spangles to
the sewing mechanism, and an automatic work-advancing mechanism said sewing
mechanism, spangle feeding mechanism, and work-advancing mechanism co-
operating one with another to automatically feed the spangle to the sewing
mechanism to sew the spangles on to the fabric by continuous threads and to
automatically feed the work forward.
2. In a spangle sewing machine the combination of an automatic sewing
mechanism, mechanism for feeding spangles to the sewing mechanism, automatic
work-advancing mechanism and means for automatically regulating the extent of
the feed of the work and means for determining the direction thereof, and inter-
mediate mechanism between said spangle feeding mechanism, sewing mechanism;
and work-advancing mechanism as and for the purposes set forth.
3. In a spangle sewing machine the combination of an automatic sewing
mechanism, spangle feeding mechanism, and work-advancing mechanism capable
of advancing the work in two or more directions, and intermediate mechanism
between said spangle feeding mechanism, sewing mechanism, and work-advancing

page_text: mechanism whereby the parts are automatically operated to feed the spangles,. t
sew the spangles fed, and to feed the material.
to
4. In a spangle sewing machine the combination of sewing mechanism, spangle
feeding mechanism feeding above the cloth plate of the machine for successively
feeding disconnected spangles to the sewing mechanism and upon the upper side
of the fabric, a work-advancing feeding foot combined with means for throwing
the said feeding foot, and with a presser foot which bears upon the spangles as and
for the purposes set forth.
5...In a spangle sewing machine the combination of sewing mechanism, an auto-
matic. spangle feeding mechanism feeding above the cloth plate of the machine for
successively feeding disconnected spangles up to the sewing mechanism and upon
the upper side of the fabric, a feeding foot, a presser foot, means for throwing
the feeding foot to advance the work, and means for actuating the presser foot to
hold the spangles being sewed.
יידי
6. In a spangle sewing machine the combination of a sewing mechanism,
mechanism for feeding disconnected spangles to the sewing mechanism, inter-
mediate mechanism between said sewing and spangle feeding mechanisms, a feed-
ing foot and mechanism for throwing the feeding foot upon lines at an angle to
one another.
al
7. In a spangle sewing machine the combination of a sewing mechanism,
spangle feeding mechanism for feeding disconnected spangles to the sewing
mechanism, intermediate mechanism between said sewing and spangle feeding
mechanisms, a feeding foot mechanism for throwing the feeding foot on lines at
angles to one another, and means for determining the direction of such throw.
8. In a spangle sewing machine the combination of a sewing mechanism,
mechanism for feeding disconnected spangles to the sewing mechanism, inter-
mediate mechanism between said sewing and spangle feeding mechanisms, a feed-
ing foot, means for throwing the feeding foot on lines at an angle to one another
to effect the advance of the work, means for determining the direction of such
movements, and means for determining the length of such movements.
9. In a spangle sewing machine the combination of sewing mechanism, spangle
feeding mechanism comprising a spangle carrier and a spangle guide with means
for bringing the spangles up to the guide, and intermediate mechanism between
said sewing and spangle feeding mechanism for automatically moving the spangle
carrier to bring the spangles into the path of the needle of the sewing mechanism.
10. In a spangle sewing machine the combination of sewing mechanism, spangle
feeding mechanism comprising a slotted stationary spangle guide having the slotted
portion thereof projecting into the path of the needle of the sewing mechanism,
a spangle carrier provided with a slotted socket for receiving a spangle, and inter-
mediate mechanism between the sewing mechanism and the spangle carrier for
automatically swinging said carrier into the path of the needle of the sewing
mechanism substantially as described.
11. In a spangle feeding mechanism the combination of a stationary spangle
guide, a movable spangle carrier and a friction plate interposed between the
guide and carrier.
12. In a work advancing mechanism the combination of a feeding foot, a cam
surface, a connection between the cam surface and the feeding foot for transmitting
motion from the cam surface to the feeding foot to throw the feeding foot, a rock
shaft for transmitting motion to the cam surface, a pivoted yoke, means for trans-
mitting motion to the yoke, a link connecting said rock shaft and yoke and means
for varying the distance between the pivot of the yoke and its connection with the
link.
13. In a spangle sewing machine, the combination of sewing mechanism,
mechanism for feeding disconnected spangles to said sewing mechanism, a work-
advancing mechanism, means for regulating the length of throw of the work-advanc-
ing mechanism, means for determining the direction of throw of the work-advancing
mechanism, means for disengaging the work advancing mechanism from the work,

page_text: and intermediate mechanism between said sewing and work advancing mechanisms,
whereby all of said parts co-operate one with another to automatically feed dis-
connected spangles to the sewing mechanism and sew on such spangles in lines
determined by the work advancing mechanism.
14. The combination of a feeding foot, a cylindrical inclined pin, means for
reciprocating and rotating the inclined pin, and a pivoted link connecting directly
to the feeding foot and pin substantially as described.
15. The combination of a feeding foot, an inclined pin, means for reciprocating
and rotating the inclined pin, a pivoted link connected to the feeding foot at one
end. and provided.at.its other end with an aperture consisting of conoidal sections
joined by their narrowest parts, said apertures surrounding the before mentioned
pin substantially as described...
F
16. The combination in a spangle sewing machine, of an annular feeding foot,
a sewing mechanism, a spangle feeding mechanism for feeding disconnected
spangles within the annulus of the feeding foot, and a presser foot working within
the annulus of the feeding foot to hold the spangles in the position to which they
are fed.
17. The combination of a spangle guide, a spangle containing tube removably
connected therewith, and a spangle carrier for conveying spangles from the spangle
guide substantially as described.
18. In a machine of the character specified the combination of a spangle guide,
a spangle carrier G8.for.conveying spangles: from said spangle guide, said spangle
carrier having a depression G10 of suitable shape and dimension to receive a
spangle, with a slot G in said depression for permitting of the withdrawal of the
carrier while the needle is through the spangle substantially as described.
19. In a spangle sewing machine, the combination of a sewing mechanism,
means for feeding disconnected spangles to said sewing mechanism, a presser-foot
adapted to bear upon a spangle and hold it against the fabric while the sewing
mechanism is operating thereon, and intermediate mechanism between said sewing
mechanism, spangle feeding mechanism and presser-foot to automatically operate
said parts.
20. In a spangle sewing machine, the combination of an automatic sewing
mechanism, an open feeder-foot therefor, means for feeding disconnected spangles
to said sewing mechanism and within the open feeder-foot, and a presser-foot
adapted to bear upon a spangle and hold it against the fabric while the sewing
mechanism is operating thereon.
21. In a spangle sewing machine, the combination of an automatic sewing
mechanism, a spangle receptacle, a spangle carrier for conveying disconnected
spangles from said spangle receptacle to the sewing mechanism, and intermediate
mechanism between said sewing mechanism and spangle carrier for automatically
operating the spangle carrier to convey spangles to the sewing mechanism and to
automatically sew the spangles thus conveyed.
22. In a spangle sewing machine, the combination of an automatic sewing
mechanism, a spangle receptacle, a spangle carrier for conveying disconnected
spangles from said spangle receptacle to the sewing mechanism, means for maintain-
ing a spangle in said spangle carrier, and intermediate mechanism between said
sewing mechanism and spangle carrier for automatically operating the spangle
carrier to convey spangles to the sewing mechanism and to automatically sew the
spangles thus conveyed.
23. In a spangle sewing machine, the combination with sewing mechanism, of
a spangle receptacle, a spangle guide, a spangle carrier forming a support at the
bottom of the spangle receptacle for supporting the spangles, said carrier being
provided with a slotted end and means for engaging a spangle to move it along
the spangle guide and mechanism for effecting the movement of a carrier to
convey a spangle into the path of the needle of the sewing mechanism and
to withdraw the carrier after the needle has entered the eye of the spangle so as to
effect the release of the spangle from the carrier.

page_text: 24. In a sewing machine, the combination with sewing mechanism, of a spangle
receptacle, a spangle carrier constituting a movable bottom for said spangle recep-
tacle, said spangle carrier being provided with a depression of a form suitable to
receive a spangle and mechanism substantially as described for moving said carrier
into the path of the needle of the sewing mechanism.
25. In a spangle sewing machine, the combination with sewing mechanism of a
spangle receptacle, a movable carrier at the bottom of the receptacle for selecting
a spangle, means substantially as described for securing a spangle to the carrier
after it is moved beyond the mouth of the receptacle and means substantially as
described for moving the carrier into the path of the needle of the sewing mechanism
and for returning the carrier to its normal position.
26. In a spangle sewing machine, the combination with sewing mechanism, of
a spangle receptacle, a spangle carrier for automatically receiving and carrying
spangles from the spangle receptacle into the path of the needle of the sewing
mechanism and mechanism for automatically moving such carrier with the spangle
into the path of the needle of the sewing mechanism and for withdrawing the
carrier after the needle has entered the eye of the spangle and while the spangle
is retained by the needle.
Dated this 5th day of Octahan 1907
A. M. & WM. CLARK,
Chartered Patent Agents, 53, Chancery Lane, London.