Improvements in Charts and Scales for Facilitating and Perfecting the Drafting of Patterns for Garments.
Year: 1888

page_text: Date of Application, 26th Sept., 1888
Complete Specification Left, 26th June. 1889-Accepted, 21st Sept., 1889
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Charts and Scales for Facilitating and Perfecting
the Drafting of Patterns for Garments.
I, FRANCIS HENRY KNIGHTS, of 9 Epworth Terrace, Harrogate, in the county of
York, Watchmaker and Jeweller, do hereby declare the nature of this Invention to be
as follows:-
:-
My improvements consist in an arrangement of charts and scales which by mea-
surement are calculated to produce perfect fitting garments, both for ladies and
children, that is for Dress Bodices, Jackets, Ulsters, Skirts and the like.
The scales being complete save any reckoning whatever.
My charts and scales consist, first of an oblong piece of thin cardboard, composition
or other suitable substance, with a slot cut out about the centre lengthwise the chart,
and with points and scales thereon to suit the different measurements namely the back
waist numbers, the bust numbers, the scale lines below the waist and a small scale.
The front neck scale, the front bust numbers, the front waist numbers with scale.
A second chart consists of a piece of cardboard, composition or other suitable
substance having three curves, with scales and points to suit for the other different.
measurements namely for the necks, arms, hips and darts, and a small straight scale
for giving exact dimensions for perfect fitting skirts.
Dated this 25th day of September 1888.
JOHN E. WALSH,
Royal Exchange Chambers, Boar Lane, Leeds, Agent for the Applicant.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Charts and Scales for Facilitating and Perfecting
the Drafting of Patterns for Garments.
I, FRANCIS HENRY KNIGHTS, of 9 Epworth Terrace, Harrogate, in the county of
York, Watchmaker and Jeweller, do hereby declare the nature of this Invention, and in
what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement :-
My improvements consist in an arrangement of charts and scales which, by mea-
surement, are calculated to produce perfect fitting garments both for ladies and
children, that is for Dress Bodices, Jackets, Ulsters, Skirts and the like.

page_text: *
inch from the top and edge of paper.
"
"
33
Draw a line across the "Top" and number
it 1, make a dot at "Point A" and number it 2. Draw a line down the Scale to
19 inches, number the said line 3. Now remove your Scale downwards until "First"
corner touches dot 2, keeping edge straight with line just drawn, (line 3,). Make a
dot at B, number it. 4. Another at your "Back" length measure, number it 5.
Place your
"Under Arm" measure at dot 5, and dot at "First" corner, number it 6.
Now draw the Scale towards you, and place your Waist number found in
Section A, on dot 5, keeping edge of Scale even with line 3; dot at "Point C," at
bottom of Scale, and number it 7. Remove Scale, placing "Fourth" corner at dot 4.
Draw a line across the paper from "Point 6 to "Point 7," and number it 8. Draw
Scale downwards until Bust Point" touches dot 6; make a dot in "Slit" at your
Bust," number it 9. Draw a line the whole length of "Slit." Now make a dot on
that line from dot 9, at 3 inches, and number it 10. Place "Fourth" corner at
dot 5 dot at "Point 5," number it 11. Dot at "Waist" number in
your
Waist
Spaces," W, S, T, number the dots made 12, 13, and 14, draw a line across from
11 to 14, passing through each dot. Turn your Scale round, and place "Third
corner at dot 7, and draw a line across the paper. Make a dot at "Waist" number
in Section B, and number it 15. Remove Scale, and place "Point 8" at that dot,
and dot again at your "Waist" number in Section A, number the dot 16.
Draw a
straight line from 15 to 12, from 15 to 13, from 14 to 10, from 7 to 11, and lastly
from 11 to 2. Now take the Chart and proceed to put in the "Neck" and other
curves. Place N found on right side of Chart, at dot 2. Let your "Back Neck
number on the curve touch line 2. Make a dot at the number required, and number
it 17. Before removing Chart draw the Curve. Write over this Curve "Back Neck."
Now place E at dot 17, letting F touch line 8, and dot it half an inch more than the
measure taken for the "Shoulder," number it 18. Draw a line from 18 to 17, and
write over it Shoulder line." F must in all cases touch line 8, and the half inch
must be taken in addition to the Shoulder " measure. Now place E, at dot 18, and
dot 3 inches from you, even with line 8, number it 19. Place B at 19 letting edge
touch dot 10, and draw the Curve from dot to dot. Without moving the Chart, make
a dot at about the distance down the Curve just drawn, number it 20, (this distance
will be regulated according to "Figure," that is to say, if a "slender" figure this dot
is as indicated, that is, of the distance "down" the Curve, but if the the figure be
"medium or "full" it will be lower in proportion as the case requires). Now place
3 inches on dot 20, and dot towards you at E, number it 21. Place B on dot 18, and
draw a curve from 18 to 21. Now place N at 12, and draw the Curve to 21. Again
from 13 to 20, and lastly downwards from 14 to 16.
ג,
To SHAPE FOR HIP CURVES.
There are three lines below the "Waist" and one curve.
"
Measure on line below dot 11, 5 inches; on each line below dots 12 and 13,
4 inches on curve below dot 14, 3 inches. Draw the curves by placing N, (found
on right side of Chart) on the first dot towards you, and draw to the next, number
this curve "No. 1 Hip Curve." Repeat across side piece but number this "No. 2
Hip Curve."
FRONT DRAFTING, (see Fig. 8).
Place the Scale (Fig. 1.), "Front" uppermost, about one inch from the top
and edge of paper, "First" corner towards you, make at dot at G on opposite edge
of Scale and number it 1. Draw a line from dot 1 to "Top" of Scale, across the
"Top" and down the edgo nearest you to the "Front Length" measure, number the
whole of this line 2. Now without moving the Scale dot up on line 2 (from the
"Front Length measure) the exact measure (14 inches) of the "Neck" line in the
"Back drafting," number this dot 3. Next dot at "Point A" and number it 4,
again at the "Front" neck measure (1 inches from Point A) and number it 5.
Place "Point B" on dot 4 and dot down on line 2 below B half of the "Arms Eye"
22

page_text: "
"
"
measure, number it 6.
Let First" corner rest on dot 6, and make a dot down on
line 2 at the Under Arm" measure, number this dot 7. Now measure 9 inches
below dot 3, draw the line down and dot at the end of line, number it 8. Line 2 is
now finished.
Next draw four lines, straight across the paper from dots 8, 7, 6, and
4, "First" corner touching each, and "Top" of Scale resting on line 2, number
these lines 9, 10, 11, and 12. Place" Bust Point" on dot 4, "Top" of Scale still on
line 2, make a dot in "Slit" at "Bust" measure, number it 13 and another
from 13, at 3 inches, to 14. Next let "First" corner touch dot 14, "Top" of
Scale on line 12, dot on line 11 where Scale touches it and number the dot 15, also
on line 10 dot and number it 16. Turn your Scale round until " Third corner is
on dot 15 then dot on line 11 at "Waist" measure in Section C and number it 17,
and again dot 3 inches towards you from 17 and number it 18. Draw Scale down
the paper until "Third" corner is on 16, repeat "Waist" dot on line 10 and number
it 19, dot again towards you at 3 inches from dot 19 and number it 20. Before
moving the Scale dot between the two last named (19 and 20) at 1 and 2 and
number them so. Next with E on 20 draw a line from 20 to 3, this is the "Waist"
line. Still keep E on 20, then dot at "Waist" measure in Section F, number it 21.
Place H on dot 3, dot at J and number it 22. The Space between 21 and 22 is
always for Darts. To find size of Darts, measure from 22 to 21, leave 1 inch exactly
in the centre of this space, all that is left on each side is a dart, put a dot in the centre
of each: Now place "First corner of Scale at 16 on line 10, and dot down below
the line at inches number it 23. Dot again from "dot" 2 and number it 24, also
dot from 1 to 25. Draw a straight line from 17' to 19, and from 18 to 20, number
the last line 26. Measure down on 26, below 18, 24 inches, also online 2, below dot 6,
at 4 inches, draw a line across from dot to dot and write "Dart line." There are
three different sizes given for this line, "Slender,"
"Medium" and "Full,” varying
according to the proportions or size of the figure as previously set forth in "Back draft-
ing." Now draw the darts. Place "First" corner of Scale on dart line, let the Scale
also touch the centre dot of dart nearest you and line 9, dot on line 9, and number it 27,
draw a straight line from dart line to 27. Repeat this through second dart and number
it 28. Next draw lines from 21 to 28 and from 22 to 27, repeat for inside corre-
sponding lines. To fill in the Curves. Take the Chart, place N (on right side o
Chart) on dart line, and draw to 21, turn over the Chart and draw from N to 22,
repeat for the other two curves. Hips. Next with N on right side of Chart at 20
draw to 25, reverse the Chart and draw from 19 to 24. Now measure outside of
dot 23 and level with it exactly, the half of "Back Shoulder" measure, number it 29,
draw the Curve from 16 to 29 Chart right side up and N on 16.
Next measure up
from 16 towards 15 whatever the length of Side piece in the "Back" is, and dot at
"First" corner in every case, number 30. For Neck Curve. Place N on right side
of Chart at 5, let neck measure on Curve touch upper line 2, make a dot and number
it 31, draw the Curve from 5 to 31. Draw the "Shoulder line with E on 31,
F touching line 12, dot at exact measure for "Shoulder" and number it 32, draw a
line from 31 to 32. Arm Hole Curve. Measure above dot. 6 on line 2, at 1 inch.
Now place E on Chart at that dot, and make another across the paper at 1 inches
more than the "Shoulder " measure, number this 33. Turn over the Chart let the
words "Front Arm Hole on the Chart (see Fig. 6,) touch dots 32, 33 and 18, draw
the Curve from 32 to 18, and continue this curve from 17 to 30 by placing W on 17.
To Shape Hips. Measure down below dot 3 with Chart, E on dot 3, 5 inches, and
mark it A, also below 20, 3 inches, and mark it B, repeat same as last below 19
and 16, and mark the dots C and D respectively. Draw Curves from A to B (N
"
on A repeat this from C to D
"

page_text: on 14 same time as on 10. The same process is employed in the "Front," the only
difference being there are three curves to be drawn instead of one, and N on wrong
side of Chart must touch dots 30 and 16, 17 and 19, 18 and 20 respectively.
TOP PORTION OF SLEEVE, (see Fig. 10).
Next
Place Sleeve Chart on the paper, make a dot at point A, and number it 1.
dot at the number required for the "elbow" on the top curve and number it 2.
Now dot at elbow" number at the bottom of the chart and number it 3, taking care
that you are on the line representing the full length of the Sleeve.
We will suppose a Sleeve measuring 144 inches to the elbow, and 21 the entire
length to wrist. You will dot at the "elbow" first as stated, and again at the same
number on the 21 line (see Chart). Now dot again at elbow number, on the inside
curve of Chart and number it 4, on line corresponding with the outer curve just
dotted. Next, without moving the Chart, dot at H, and write H at this dot. Now
draw the lines, first from 1 to 2, then let the outside edge of the lower part of Chart
from elbow touch dot 2, and draw to 3.
Again from 3 to 4, also the full inside curve from H to 4. Next a line from H
to 1. Now measure above this line from about the centre, the measure given on the
Chart, by placing point K on the outer curve line on the centre of line made, and
dotting above it at A.
5, Lastly, draw top curve. Place "Diamond" found on the "Sleeve" Chart
near to point B, at dot H. Let the curve touch dot 5. Draw from H on paper to
dot 5 or H on Chart, then continue curve to dot 1.
UNDER PORTION OF SLEEVE.
Place Chart on the paper, make a dot at A, number it 1; at B, number it 2;
at C, number it 3; at F, number it 4; at H, on under curve, number it 5; at D,
number it 6; at E, number it 7; and at the full length of sleeve, number it 8. Now
draw the curve from 5 to 8. The "Knuckle "measure which is found on bottom or
end of "Sleeve Chart" must next be dotted (from dot S) number the dot 9, then
draw a line from dot 9 to dot 8, whatever the length of Sleeve. Now turn over the
Sleeve Chart (see Fig. 5.) on the outside edge you will see the calculations for the
"Under Sleeve" proportions. In order to take the proper measures.
at dot 7, letting edge of Chart touch dot 4. Dot at measure round elbow. Number
Place corner G
this dot 10. Again placo G at dot 6, Chart touching dot 3, dot at measure for thick
part of arm, and number it 11.
FOR ARM HOLE CURVE.
Place point G at dot 1 at the top of paper, let the edge of chart touch dot 2; dot
at the number required, and number it 12. Place the diamond point on right side of
Chart (see Fig. 4.) at dot 12, and draw the Curve to dot 5. Next with the Chart
wrong side up draw an outside line, above the elbow, from dot 12 to 11, from 11
to 10, and below the elbow from 10 to 9. These lines must be drawn as nearly
straight as the Chart will allow.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is;-
This Zoth day of June 1889.
JOHN E. WALSH,
Royal Exchange Chambers, Boar Lane, Leeds, Agent for the, Applicant.