Improvements in Wax-thread Sewing Machines
Year: 1890

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Wax-thread Sewing Machines.
A communication from abroad by THE WARDWELL SEWING MACHINE COMPANY,
Incorporated under the Laws of the State of New York, of New York, in the
United States of America.
I, PHILIP MIDDLETON JUSTICE of 55 and 56 Chancery Lane in the County of
Middlesex, Fellow of the Institute of Patent Agents, do hereby declare the nature
of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
My invention relates to certain improvements in wax thread sewing machines full.
set forth hereinafter, and illustrated in the accompanying drawings in which :-
Fig. 1 is a side elevation of the machine embodying my improvements.
Fig. 2 is a side elevation enlarged, showing the opposite side of said machine.
Fig. 3 is an enlarged sectional plan showing the parts below the overhanging
arm.
Fig. 4 is an enlarged perspective view of the frame carrying the presser foot and
adjacent parts.
Fig. 5 is an enlarged sectional plan on the line 5, Fig. 1.
Fig. 6 is an enlarged sectional plan on the line 6, Fig. 2.
Fig. 7 is an enlarged view in part section showing the appliances for lifting the
presser foot frame.
Fig. 8 is a sectional view of the carrier for the awl and needle bars.
Fig. 9 is an enlarged perspective view showing the parts which operate directly
upon the work, and the operating devices immediately connected therewith.
Fig. 10 is a sectional view illustrating the progressive formation of the stitch.
The progressive formation of the stitch from a loop of under thread and
upper thread y is illustrated in Fig. 10, in which X represents the material
in which perforations are formed by the awl, as the material moves step
by step in the direction of the arrow. The lower thread is first drawn up
to form a loop a, a loop y of the upper thread is then passed through the loop a as
shown at 6, the lower thread is then drawn to first carry the loop y to the position
shown at c and then drawn down doubling the loop y, into the perforation as shown
at d thus completing the stitch. These operations are effected through the instru-
mentality of the following devices, best shown in Fig. 9. A spur f, an awl B, a
needle C, an upper-thread carrier D, a loop-holder E, a lower thread carrier 3, and a
lower thread deflector 4 which parts co-operate with each other and a work plate 2,
Fig. 1, and with a presser foot 42, as fully set forth hereinafter.
As best shown in Figs. 1 and 2, all of the described parts except the work-plate
and lower thread carrier and deflector are carried by means of an overhanging arm H,
and the spur, the upper thread carrier, the looper and the presser foot, are carried by
a yoke frame T, the form of which said part detached, is best shown in Fig. 4.
In the operation of sewing, the spur f, Fig. 9, first penetrates without passing
through the fabric and then rises slightly so as to reduce the friction of the fabric
against the work-plate by slightly lifting the fabric which adheres frictionally to the
spur. The presser-foot then rises slightly to relieve the pressure upon the fabric while
the spur descends slightly, and then moves the fabric laterally until the spur is over
the hole 6, Fig. 2, in the work-plate. The presser-foot then descends and the spur
rises and moves back to its first position after which the awl descends, perforates
the fabric through the opening made by the spur and rises.
The awl then moves to one side and the needle C, Fig. 9, comes directly above the
awl hole v, Fig. 10, in the fabric and descends between the lower thread carrier 3 and
deflector 4, Fig. 9. The carrier and deflector then move back in the direction of the

page_text: arrow 1, Fig. 9, carrying the lower thread x, Fig. 10, into the hook of the needle C,
Fig. 9, and the needle then rises carrying the thread to position a, Fig. 10. The
upper thread carrier D, Fig. 9, then swings in carrying the loop of the
upper thread Y,
Fig. 10, through the loop of thread x, Figs. 9 and 10, and then the holder E, Fig. 9,
catches the thread y, and the carrier D, moves back leaving the thread y as a loop
extending through the thread a as at b, Fig. 10. The holder E then moves out of the
"loop y and the lower thread is drawn by the take-up until the upper thread is drawn
in the form of a loop into the fabric as shown at d, Fig. 10.
The thread carried by the upper thread carrier D is conducted from the upper
wax-pot 188, Figs. 1 and 2, in the usual manner.
The spur is carried by an arm 50, Fig. 9, swinging upon a cross rod 80,
supported by the branches of the yoke T, and the arm 50 is connected by a rod 53
to and reciprocated by a lever 17 pivoted to a standard F supporting the over-
hanging arm H. In the standard, turns a driving shaft 19 carrying a cam W
which has a side groove that engages a lug on the lever 17 to vibrate the latter,
see Fig. 3.
The lateral movement of the arm 50 which imparts the feed to the spur fis
effected by means of a wedge S which is formed to straddle the rod 80, and
which passes between a hub 29 upon the central branch of the yoke, and a collar 30
secured to the rod 80 which carries the arm 50. A spring 25 moves the rod and
its arm 50 and collar 30 in the direction of the arrow 2, Fig. 9, while the wedge S
bearing on the hub 29 presses with its bovelled face against the collar 30, and
moves the rod 80 and arm 50 in the opposite direction always to such point that
the spur is brought over the hole 6 in the work-plate, Fig. 2. A set screw 129,
Fig. 9, passing through one of the branches of the yoke T in position to be struck
by the arm 50 limits the movements of the parts in the direction of the arrow 2,
and determines the length of the feed and consequently of the stitch.
The feed wedge S is connected to a forked rod 45, Figs. 2 and 3, which embraces
the shaft 19, and is reciprocated by a cam U, a groove in the inner face of which
receives a stud on the end of the said rod 45.
The upper thread carrier D, Figs. 2 and 9, is carried by an arm 9 upon a shaft 26,
rocking in bearings in the yoke T, an arm 38 on the shaft being connected by a rod 37
with a lever 39, Figs. 2 and 3, pivoted to the side of the standard F, and reciprocated
by means of the cam U, a groove in the outer face of which receives a lug on the said
lever.
The loop holder E, Fig. 9, is carried by an arm 11 connected to a vertical rock-
shaft 43 turning in bearings in the central stud z of the yoke, a rod 46, (Figs. 2, 3
and 9) connecting an arm 41, upon said rock-shaft with one arm of a bell crank
lever 51 (Fig. 3) a stud on the other arm of which, extends into a peripheral groove
in the cam U, which thus operates the lever 41 and the parts connected therewith.
The presser-foot 42 is connected with and carried by the central stud of the yoke T
and moves vertically with the latter. A shaft 141 connected to the yoke passes upward
through the arm H of the machine, and is provided with a pin 86, Fig. 7, which
enters an inclined spiral slot 58 in a sleeve R surrounding the shaft, which sleeve is
provided with a flange 59 having a serrated lower edge.
To the needle lever 32, Fig. 7, pivoted to one side of the arm H is hung a link 60,
a lug 61 of which extends under the serrated flange 59, so that as the needle lever
rises the lug 61 at the termination of the needle levers upper movement will make
contact with the flange and lift the sleeve R, Fig. 7, and the yoke, the roughened
surfaces of the parts 59, 61, preventing the sleeve from turning.
The extent to which the yoke T and presser foot must be lifted is always the same,
while the thickness of the different materials operated upon varies. For this reason
the slot 58 is inclined so that when the presser-foot and yoke are raised to admit any
thickness of material the pin 86 bearing upon the inclined face of the slot 58 will turn
the sleeve R in the direction of the arrow, Fig. 7, to an extent proportioned to that to
which the shaft 141 is raised, and whatever extent this may be there is never any

page_text: vertical play between the pin 86, and the sides of the slot 58 in the sleeve R, so that when
the lug 61 strikes the flange 59 and lifts the shaft 141 the presser-foot will always move
with it to the same extent whatever may be the position to which the presser foot has
been raised by the thickness of the material.
The awl and needle are carried by two bars 7, 8, arranged side by side between
guides in a carrier Q, Figs. 5, 6 and 8, consisting of two heads 93, 93, connected by
a stem 92, and fitting a cylindrical opening in the head of the arm H, as shown.
This carrier Qis turned to bring the needle and the awl successively directly over
the opening 6 of the work-plate, the turning being effected by any suitable means as
by a lever 99, Figs. 2 and 3, pivoted to one side of the standard and reciprocated by
means of a cam groove in the outer face of the cam U, and connected by a rod 94,
Figs. 2 and 6, to an arm 95 extending from the side of the carrier Q. The needle
bar 8 is provided with a slotted block 191, Fig. 5, into the transverse slot, s³, Fig. 2,
of which fits the head of a pivoted lug 192, extending into the needle lever 32, and
the awl bar 7 is provided with a like block 165, slotted and receiving the head of a
pivoted lug 96 extending into the awl operating lever 26, Figs. 1 and 5, the latter
being pivoted at 27 to one side of the arm H, and being actuated from a cam groove
in the side of one of the cams as W, Fig. 3.
The horn A that carries the work-plate 2 is pivoted between projections 214
and 215 upon the standard F so as to swing about a vertical axis coincident with
that of a rod 66, Figs. 1 and 2, and with the hole 6 in the work-plate so that
the work-plate and the work thereon may be turned to any suitable position, and
the parts upon the horn are operated from the shaft 19 through the medium of
flanged spools 63, 64, 65, sliding on the rod 66. Thus a lever 91, Fig. 1, pivoted
to one side of the standard is connected to a rod 101 slotted to receive the shaft 19,
and operated by a cam groove in the side of the cam W, and this lever 91 is
connected to a slide 107 having at the upper end an arm with a stud fitting
between the flanges of the spool 63. The lever 67 pivoted to one side of the
horn A is connected by a rod 69, Figs. 2 and 9, with the thread carrier 3, Fig. 9,
while a lever 68, Fig. 1, having a stud passing between the flanges of the
spool 65 is connected by a rod 71 to a slide 70, Fig. 9, carrying a pin 73 that
enters a curved slot 74 in the thread deflector 4, which is swung upon its pivot
by the reciprocation of the stud 73 in the slot 74, Fig. 9. The spool 65 is
reciprocated by the movement of a lever 90, Fig. 2, pivoted to one side of the
standard and operated by a cam slot in the cam U, receiving a stud on a con-
necting rod 102. The lower thread x, Fig. 1, passes through a diametrical slit
in a take-up dise I which turns between two studs 117, 118, thereby laying the
thread upon the periphery of the disc and drawing it in one direction from the
wax pot 111, and in the other direction through the fabric to draw down the loop
of upper thread, as shown at d, Fig. 10. When the take-up disc is brought again
to the position shown in Fig. 1, the thread can pass freely as the needle draws
the loop upward through the fabric in the position a Fig. 10. The oscillation of.
the take-up disc is effected through the medium of a rack lever 124, Fig. 2,
engaging à pinion 123, meshing with a pinion 133 on the shaft of the disc, a
stud on the rack lever entering between the flanges of the spool 64, which is
moved vertically by the vibration of a lever 125, Fig. 1, pivoted to the side of
the standard. The lever 125 receives its movement by the longitudinal reciprocation
of a connecting rod 126, attached to the lower end of a lever 127 pivoted to the
standard F, and deriving its movement from a cam groove in the side of the
cam W.
If the amount of thread paid out to form each loop was always the same the
parts above described would have uniform movements, but as the fabric varies in
thickness at different points it is necessary in order to prevent variations in the
locking of the stitches to provide means whereby the loop of upper thread shall
always be drawn down to the same extent below the upper surface of the fabric
as shown at d Fig. 10, whatever may be the thickness of the fabric, for it will

page_text: be evident that the under thread must be drawn down to a greater extent to draw
the loop of upper thread when the fabric is half an inch thick than when the
fabric is an inch in thickness. In order to effect this operation automatically the
extent to which the take-up disc I is turned is varied so as to increase its amount
of oscillation in proportion as the thickness of the fabric decreases by means of a
connection between the presser-foot, the position of which varies with the thickness
of the fabric and the operating devices of the disc. Thus, the connecting pin 128
carried by the rod 126 enters a curved slot 52, Fig. 1, in one arm of the lever 125,
and into a slot 116 in the connecting rod 126 enters the pin 119 carried by a
lever 195, Fig. 2, pivoted to the other side of the standard of the machine and
to a pin 120 on the lever 195 is connected the lower end of the rod 112, Fig. 2,
connected at the upper end to the yoke T that carries the presser-foot. When
the presser-foot is lifted by the increased thickness of the fabric, the pins 119, 128,
are also elevated whereby a reduced throw is imparted to the lever 125, and the
loop of lower thread drawn down to a less extent, while when the thickness of
the fabric decreases the presser-foot and the yoke are lowered, together with the
pins 119, 128, the throw of the lever 125 is increased, the take-up is oscillated to
a greater extent, and the loop of lower thread is drawn further down.
The slot 52 is so arranged in respect to the pivot of the rod 126 that the
latter will be concentric with the curve of the slot 52 when the lever 125 is in
its extreme forward position, which will be the case when the needle, awl, and
spur are out of the cloth, thereby permitting the yoke and its adjuncts to be
elevated and lowered without moving the lever 125 or any other parts, when it
is desired to thread the take-up, draw slack thread through the take-up and insert.
and withdraw the work. The elevation of the yoke and its adjuncts is effected
by turning a cam block 200, Fig. 2, having a cam engaging a pin 201 projecting
from the shaft 141, Fig. 7. In order to adjust the amount of loop drawn into
the fabric the rolls 117, 118, Fig. 1 are attached to a plate pivoted upon the
shaft of the take up disc I and rotated by an adjustment screw acting upon an
incline on the plate. As the roll or stud 117 Fig. 1 is rotated to the right or
left of the slit in the take-up disc the time of action of drawing in the thread is
changed. To draw in a lesser amount the roll 117 is carried to the left, and
consequently the thread as rotated by the disc comes in contact with the roll 117 later
and less drawing in of the thread is effected. The reverse is the case when roll 117
is carried to the right.
Other devices than those shown may be employed for moving the shifting
bearing 128 which is connected with the presser-foot frame, and with the devices
operating the take-up disc I. The feeder may also be constructed in a different
manner from that described so as to take hold of the material and feed it at
proper intervals, and other means than the lever and its contact piece 61 may be
used for imparting the vertical movement to the cylinder or equivalent device R.
It will also be evident that some of the improved features herein described may
be used in connection with sewing machines of different constructions.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, as communicated to me
by my foreign correspondents, I declare that what I claim is:-
1. The combination in a sewing machine of the work-plate, needle and an awl
moving independently of the needle, and an independent feeder, all arranged above the
work-plate, substantially as set forth.
2. The combination with a work-plate of a needle and awl arranged above the work-
plate, and a pivoted arm carrying a spur, also above the work-plate and appliances
substantially as described for vibrating and sliding the arm.
3. The combination with the work-plate, needle and awl, an independent feeder,
said needle, awl and feeder arranged above the work-plate, of operating appliances
constructed to lift the feeder prior to feeding the fabric, substantially as set forth.

page_text: 4. The combination of the work-plate, needle, and awl, of a sewing machine, of a
feeder provided with a spur, and appliances for shifting the positions of the feeder, awl
and needle to bring the spur of the feeder and then the awl and then the needle in
succession above the perforation in the work-plate, substantially as set forth.
5. The combination of the presser-foot, needle, awl and feeder and work-piate of a
sewing machine, of appliances for lifting the feeder and the presser-foot after the
feeder has penetrated the fabric, and for depressing the presser-foot after the feeder has
carried the fabric the required extent, substantially as set forth.
6. The combination with the work-plate, needle and awl of a sewing machine, of a
frame or yoke movably supported in the overhanging arm carrying the upper thread
carrier, presser-foot, looper and feeder, substantially as set forth.
7. A sewing machine provided above the work-plate with a vertically movable
frame T, to which the presser foot is rigidly secured and upper thread actuating and
work feeding devices supported by said frame, substantially as set forth.
8. A sewing machine provided with an overhanging arm and with needle and awl
bars moving thereon, and with a yoke supported by said arm to move vertically,
provided with a horizontal shaft, and an upper thread carrier, loop holder and feed
device carried by said shaft, substantially as set forth.
9. The combination with the yoke or frame, arm 50 carrying a spur, and means for
rocking the arm and moving it laterally, of an adjustable stop for limiting the lateral
movement of the arm, substantially as set forth.
10. The combination in a sewing machine of a work-plate, vertical needle and awl
bars, a support having guides for said bars, an over-hanging arm having a circular
bearing for said support and means for oscillating the support to bring the needle
and awl successively above the opening in the work-plate, substantially as
set forth.
11. The combination with the work-plate, needle and awl bars and carrier Q, of
needle and awl operating levers each provided with a projection engaging a transverse
bearing upon one of the bars and means for oscillating the carrier, substantially as set
forth.
12. The combination with the carrier for the presser-foot, of a cylinder having an
inclined slot receiving a pin extending from a part of said carrier, and a reciprocating
lever provided with a contact piece 61 arranged to make contact with a bearing upon
said cylinder, substantially as set forth.
13. The combination of the presser-foot, movable support therefor, provided with a
pin 86, cylinder R, having an inclined bearing for said pin, and flange or bearing 59,
and a reciprocating arm carrying a contact piece 61 for engaging said flange,
substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
14. The combination with the cylinder R, and means for imparting the uniform
vertical reciprocation thereto, of a presser-foot and carrier therefor provided with a
pin extending into an inclined slot in the cylinder, substantially as set forth.
15. The combination of the presser-foot, carrier having a pin 86, cylinder R having
an inclined slot and serrated flange, and lever 32 provided with a contact piece having
a serrated edge, substantially as set forth.
16. The combination of the thread take-up disc I, the presser-foot and yoke or
frame carrying the same, devices for oscillating said disc, and a shifting bearing
connected with the disc operating devices and with the said frame, substantially as set
forth.
17. The combination of the frame carrying the presser-foot, oscillating take-up disc,
slotted levers 125 and 195 and connecting rod 126, shifting bearing 128 carried by the
rod 126, bearing 119 connecting the lever 195 and the rod 126, and connections between
the lever 195 and the presser-foot carrying frame, and between the lever 125 and the
disc, substantially as set forth.
18. The combination of the take-up disc I, slotted lever 125 connected with the
disc, a rod 126 carrying a pin or bearing 128, a lever 195 connected with the presser-
foot carrier, and a bearing 119 between the lever 195 and the rod 126, substantially
as set forth.

page_text: 19. The combination with the presser-foot carrier frame, take-up disc, lever 125
connected with said take-up disc, rod 126 pivoted at one end and having an adjustable
curved bearing upon the lever 125, and connections between the presser frame and
said bearing, substantially as set forth.
20. The combination of the lever 125 having a curved slot, the rod 126 having a
bearing in said slot and connected with the frame carrying the presser-foot by
connections arranged to permit the raising and lowering of the presser-foot when the
slot is concentric with the pivot of the rod 126, substantially as set forth.
21. The combination with the take-up disc and its guide rolls of an adjustable
support for the latter and means for varying the position of said support, substantially
as set forth.
22. The combination of the take-up disc, guide rolls, plate carrying said guide rolls,
and adjusting screw, substantially as and for the purpose set forth
Dated this 2nd day of July 1890.
PHILIP M. JUSTICE.