AN IMPROVED MACHINE FOR PREPARING SHOES BEFORE THE SEWING OR STITCHING
Year: 1876

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Louis Giessner, of Boulevard Saint Denis, No. 1, at Paris,
Modeller, for the Invention of "AN IMPROVED MACHINE FOR PREPARING SHOES
BEFORE THE SEWING OR STITCHING."
aled the 20th April 1877, and dated the 11th November 1876.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Louis Giessner at the Office of
the Commissioners of Patents on the 11th November 1876.
"AN
LOUIS GIESSNER, of Boulevard Saint Denis, No. 1, at Paris, Modeller.
IMPROVED MACHINE FOR PREPARING SHOES BEFORE THE SEWING OR STITCHING."
The object of my Invention is to construct a machine for preparing the vamps
or uppers of shoes or boots, that is to say, providing them with their lining and
elastics held by a first pasting before submitting them to stitching or sewing.
My machine is chiefly composed of two metal platforms hinged together, and
each formed of two pieces. These platforms are supported by and pivoted to an
iron foot or pedestal. Their hinges are traversed by a regulating screw provided
with handles, and having a right and left handed thread for the purpose of
separating the halves of the platforms as required. In this separating movement
the halves of the platforms slide by means of dovetails in corresponding guides
fixed to the pivot of the machine. The platforms are besides held in their separated
position by triangular pieces, the edges of which are dovetailed to those of the
platforms. These triangular pieces slide in guides and have coiled springs to effect
their movement. Each of the four parts composing the two platforms has a
bevilled opening, into which a sort of brass frame enters which is held in place by
means of a spring plate. This frame receives a piece likewise bevilled, and which
has the form of the elastics usually employed in the manufacture of shoes and boots.
This piece carries on its under side a strong ring into which the point of a hook
enters, which forms a wedge and firmly locks the said piece against its frame.
When this hook is disengaged from the ring the said piece is lifted by flat springs.
The hinges of the platforms are adjustable to allow the machine to press different
thicknesses of leather or other material, and there are spring pieces at the outer
ends of one of the platforms for the same purpose. When one platform is folded
on the other the two are held firmly pressed together by means of locking handles
which take below the spring pieces just referred to.

page_text: Having described the construction and arrangement of the parts of the machine,
I will now explain its action. The machine being open, that is to say, the two
platforms occupying a horizontal position, one on cach side of the hinges, I begin
by disengaging from one platform the pieces herein-before referred to as being of
the form of the elastics, this being effected by releasing the hooks. These pieces
being then lifted by their springs the leather "upper" or vamp previously cut to the
proper shape is placed inside uppermost, so that the edges of the leather are engaged
under the edges of the said pieces; after which I again fasten the hooks so that the
leather will be nipped by the said pieces. This having been effected I then regulate
the distance of the two parts of this platform by turning the regulating screw to
the requisite degree. This first operation having been finished the machine is
turned half round on its pivot so as to bring the other platform to the operator,
and I then proceed to place the lining on this platform; this is done in the same
way, as with the vamp only for inore facility I engage the edges of the lining, which
are folded for the purpose under the "elastic" shaped pieces, by means of a fork
made of a thin metal plate. When the vamp and its lining have thus been placed on
the platforms I take a small zinc spatula provided with a handle and of the exact
form of the "elastic" shaped pieces; I place this spatula on the said pieces and I apply,
by means of a brush, paste or other suitable adhesive material all around the
spatula, which thus guarantees the setting of the clastics. I next put the elastics
in place, inside uppermost, and I then again put a little paste near the bottom for
the bands of the lining. I then close the machine by folding the platforms one
upon the other, and keep them locked by means of the handles before mentioned.
This second operation having been effected I open the machine, taking care to
previously disengage the hooks of the upper platform so that in lifting this, the
"clastic" shaped pieces being free remain in place, do not disarrange the lining
which has been pasted. I gently slide these pieces towards the regulating screw in
order to disengage them from below the lining and reinstate them in their frame.
I make the top folds by putting a little paste therein, and I then reclose the
machine.
In order to remove the vamp when the paste is dry I unfasten the hooks and
open the machine, the vamp being then quite ready for stitching or sewing.
In order to prevent waste of time during the drying the machine may be made
double, so that one vamp may be prepared while the other dries.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said Louis Giessner in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 11th May
1877.
<< AN
LOUIS GIESSNER, of Boulevard Saint Denis, No. 1, at Paris, Modeller.
IMPROVED MACHINE FOR PREPARING SHOES BEFORE THE SEWING OR STITCHING."
The object of my Invention is to construct a machine for preparing the vamps
or uppers of shoes or boots, that is to say, providing them with their lining and
elastics held by a first pasting before submitting them to stitching or sewing.
The arrangement of my machine and its action will be fully understood by the
annexed Drawings; Figure 1 is a sectional elevation of the machine in its opened
position, the closed position being indicated by dotted lines; Figure 2 is a plan.
The machine is divided into two parts, each composed of two cast-iron platforms
M, M, connected together by hinges N, N. These platforms thus connected are
supported by and pivoted to an iron foot or pedastal E, which is fixed to a table
or otherwise by means of screws. The hinges N, N, are traversed by a regulating
screw D, provided with right and left handed threads for the purpose regulating
the distance between the platforms, as required, and this is effected by working
the hand wheels d, d. In their rectilinear movement the platforms slide by means
of

page_text: of dovetail pieces P, P, in corresponding guides O, O, fixed to the pivot of the
machine. The platforms are besides held in their separated position by triangular
pieces H, H, the edges V of which are dovetailed to those of the platforms. These
triangular pieces H, H, slide on guides T, T, and coiled springs t, t, constantly solicit
them to move from the centre of the machine. Each of the four parts composing
the platforms M, M¹, has a bevilled opening into which a sort of brass frame K
enters, which is held in place by means of a spring plate (Figure 1). This frame
receives a piece A, likewise bevilled, and which has the form of the elastics usually
employed in the manufacture of shoes and boots. The internal opening of the frame
K can be varied in size to receive "change" plates A according to the dimensions
of the elastics to be prepared. Each of the pieces A carries on its under side a
strong ring b into which the point of a hook B enters, which forms a wedge and
firmly locks the said piece A against its frame K. When this hook B is disengaged
from the ring b the said piece A is lifted by flat springs Y, which are fixed behind
the bar h. The hinges N, N, are adjustable to allow the machine to press different
thicknesses of leather or other material, this being effected by means of the threaded
rod R and spring Q. When the platform M is folded on the platform M the two
are held firmly pressed together by means of locking handles C, C, which take
below spring pieces S, S, which thus form elastic fastenings adjustable to different
thicknesses of vamps.
Having described the construction and arrangement of the parts of the machine,
I will now explain its action. The machine being open, that is to say, in the
position indicated in Figures 1 and 2, I begin by disengaging the pieces A, A,
which are of the form of the elastics by releasing the hooks B, B.
These pieces
being thus lifted, the leather upper or vamp, previously cut to the proper shape, is
placed inside uppermost, so that the edges of the leather are engaged under the
edges of the said pieces A, A, after which I again fasten the hooks B, B, so that
the leather will be nipped by the said pieces. This having been effected I then
regulate the distance of the two parts of the platform M. by turning the regulating
screw D to the requisite degree. This first operation having been finished the
machine is turned half round on its pivot E, and I then proceed to place the lining
on the platform M¹; this is done in the same way as with the vamp, only, for
more facility, I engage the edges of the lining which are folded for the purpose
under the pieces A, A, by means of the fork F, shown in Figures 3 and 4. Care
should be taken to place the stitching or seam of the lining on the line G drawn
on the plates H, H. When the vamp and its lining have thus been placed on the
platforms M, M, I take a small zinc spatula I, provided with a handle (see Figures
5 and 6) and of the exact form of the pieces A, A. I place this spatula on the said
pieces A and I apply, by means of a brush, paste or other suitable adhesive material
all round the spátula, which thus guarantees the setting of the elastics. I next put
the elastics in place, inside uppermost, and I then again put a little paste near the
bottom for the bands of the lining. I then close the machine by folding the
platforms one upon the other and keep them firmly locked by means of
the handles C, C.
The second operation having been effected I open the machine, taking care to
previously disengage the hooks B, B, of the upper platform, so that in lifting this,
the pieces A, A, being free, remain in place and the lining which has been pasted
is not disarranged. I gently slide these pieces A, A, towards the regulating screw D
in order to disengage them from below the lining and reinstate them in their
frame K. I make the top folds by putting a little paste therein, and I then reclose
the machine.
In order to remove the vamp when the paste is dry I unfasten the hooks B and
open the machine, the vamp being then quite ready for stitching or sewing.
In order to prevent waste of time during the drying the machine may be made
double, so that one vamp may be prepared while the other dries.
And having now described the nature of my said Invention and in what manner
the same is to be performed, I declare that I claim the improved machine con-

page_text: structed, arranged, and working substantially as and for the purpose herein-before
described with reference to the annexed Drawings.
The chief features of the said machine are,-
First. The arrangement of the platforms M, M¹, each formed of two parts capable
of being moved apart, as required, under the action of the regulating screw D, the
guides O, O, and the two triangular pieces H, H, which advance automatically by
means of the springs t, t, as herein-before explained.
Secondly. The mode of connecting the platforms M, M³, by means of the spring
hinges N, N, as described.
Thirdly. The arrangement of the pieces A, A, for holding the vamp and its
lining during the pasting, the said pieces being changeable, as required, according
to different sizes of vamps.
Fourthly. The spring or elastic fastenings made by the handles C, C, taking
below the spring pieces S, S.
And, lastly. The general combination of the machine, the automatic accuracy of.
which allows of producing regular work whatever be the size or thickness of the
vamps or uppers to be prepared.
In witness whereof, I, the said Louis Giessner, have hereunto set my hand
and seal, this Eighth day of May, One thousand eight hundred and
seventy-seven.
Witness,
ALBERT CAHEN,
Civil Engineer,
of Boulevard Saint Denis, No. 1,
at Paris.
LOUIS GIESSNER. (L.S.)