IMPROVEMENTS IN ATTACHING. OR CONNECTING ORNAMENTS TO COLLAR AND OTHER STUDS, SOLITAIRES, AND PROVISIONAL SPATION
Year: 1874

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to John Reading, of Harborne, in the County of
Stafford, Gentleman, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN ATTACHING.
OR CONNECTING ORNAMENTS TO COLLAR AND OTHER STUDS, SOLITAIRES, AND
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said John Reading at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
21st March 1874.
I, JOHN READING, of Harborne, in the County of Stafford, Gentleman,
do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS
IN ATTACHING OR CONNECTING ORNAMENTS TO COLLAR AND OTHER STUDS, SOLI-
TAIRES, AND OTHER DRESS FASTENINGS AND ARTICLES OF JEWELLERY," to be as
follows:-
In the ordinary method of manufacturing collar and other studs,
solitaires, and other dress fastenings and ornaments the stone or other
ornament is rigidly attached to the article, or to one of the two parts
of the article when the said article is composed of two parts. The

page_text: ornament thus firmly fixed to the article must always be worn with it,
and when it is wished to wear on different occasions ornaments of
different kinds (as in the case of mourning for example) the fastenings
or articles must be changed simply for the purpose of changing the
ornament. By my Invention these objections are obviated.
The ornament in articles made according to my Invention may be
removed at pleasure and replaced by another, or the article may be worn
without an ornament.
I will describe my Invention as applied to a sleeve stud consisting of
two discs or heads connected by a stem. Instead of fixing an ornament
on that end of the stem which is to be exposed in wearing the article,
I fix thereto a small flat head, preferably of a circular or elliptical figure.
I fix the stone or ornament to a plate having at its back a spring snap
fastening. The said fastening consists of two plates parallel with the
back of the ornament. One of these plates is fixed and the other
moveable, the moveable one being pressed against the fixed one edge
to edge by a coiled spring. The edges of the said plates are convex
so that it is only at or near their middle that they come into contact.
When the ornament is presented to the stud so that the neck of the
stud is opposed to the opening between the plates and pressure is
applied the moveable plate yields, and the neck of the stud passes
between the plates until it arrives at the middle, where there is a
recess in the edge of the moveable plate into which the stem of the
stud snaps by the action of the spring, and the attachment of the
ornament is complete.
•
In order to detach the ornament it is pressed on its edge between the
thumb and finger when the bar which carries the moveable plate is
pressed inwards and the moveable plate is so far separated from the fixed
plate that the stem of the stud is liberated.
The application of my Invention to solitaires and other dress
fastenings and ornaments differs in no essential respect from its appli-
cation to a sleeve stud.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent
filed by the said John Reading in the Great Seal Patent Office
on the 15th September 1874.
-
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JOHN
READING, of Harborne, in the County of Stafford, Gentleman, send
greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Twenty-first day of March, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-four, in the
thirty-seventh year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and suc-
cessors, give and grant unto me, the said John Reading, Her special
license, that I, the said John Reading, my executors, administrators,
and assigns, or such others as I, the said John Reading, my executors,
administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no
others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the term
therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the
Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
ATTACHING OR CONNECTING ORNAMENTS TO COLLAR AND OTHER STUDS, SOLITAIRES,
AND OTHER DRESS FASTENINGS AND ARTICLES OF JEWELLERY," upon the con-
dition (amongst others) that I, the said John Reading, my executors or
administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one
of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the
nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to
be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent
Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the date
of the said Letters Patent.
С
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said John Reading, do hereby declare
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to
be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement thereof that is to say: —
:
In the ordinary method of manufacturing collar and other studs,
solitaires, and other dress fastenings and ornaments the stone or other
ornament is rigidly attached to the article. The ornament thus, firmly
fixed to the article must always be worn with it, and when it is wished

page_text: Figure 3 represents in back elevation and side elevation the back.
or stud part of the article. The front or ornament part of the sleeve
stud is marked A, and the back or stud part is marked B.
Figure 4 represents in side elevation, and Figure 5 in section the
sleeve stud B and the ornamental part A fastened together; and Figures
6 and 7 represent sectional views of the same unfastened, the section
Figure 7 being taken through the sleeve stud in a plane at right angles
to that in which the section, Figure 6, is taken.
Figure 8 represents a sleeve stud in which the stem of the back stud
is oblong in cross section instead of circular.
Figure 9 represents the plate forming the inner face of the part A.
Figure 10 represents the blank from which the fixed plate of the
snap fastening is made, and also the said fixed plate made from the
blank, and Figure 11 represents the blank from which the moveable
plate or slide of the snap fastening is made, and also the plate made
from the said blank..
:
The same letters of reference indicate the same parts in the several
Figures of the Drawing.
The snap fastening on the back of and parallel to the part A carrying
the stone or ornament consists of a fixed plate c bent of the form best
seen in Figures 1, 2, 4, and 10, and a moveable plate or slide d having
nearly the same figure as the fixed plate c. The moveable plate or
slide d is pressed against the fixed plate c edge to edge, as seen in
Figures 1, 4, and 5, by the coiled (or other) spring e supported at
one end on the tongue or central bar d² of the plate or slide d, and
at the other end on the bar c³ of the fixed plate c, the said bars d², c³,
being situated at a lower level than the acting or gripping edges of
the said plates c, d, (see the sectional views). The edges of the fixed
and and moveable plates c, d, of the snap fastening are convex, so that
it is only at or near their middle that they came into contact (see
Figure 1). On the moveable plate or slide d is a push piece d³ situated
at the edge of the part A for relcasing the fastening. The fixed plate c
of. the snap fastening is made by bending the part c of the blank,
Figure 10, over and parallel to the other portion of the blank, as
seen in the edge view of Figure 10, and also similarly bending over
the tongue piece c³, which tongue piece c³ constitutes a guide pin for

page_text: 2-
the moveable plate or slide d. The fixed plate c is secured to the
back plate of the ornament or front part A of the sleeve stud by
means of the ears f², f2, on the said back plate f, which ears are
turned over the said fixed plate c, and also by the ears c¹ on the
plate c which are turned into holes in the plate f. The moveable
plate or slide d is made by bending the part d of the blank, Figure 11,
over and parallel to the other part of the blank, as seen in the edge
view of Figure 11, a slot or recess d* in the moveable plate d working
upon the guide pin c² of the fixed plate c. The back part or stud B
of the sleeve stud has a stem 9 cither cylindrical or flattened with a flat
head at its end.
In order to connect the ornamental front part A to the back or stud
part B, the said part A is so presented to the said part B that the
head of the latter is situated opposite one of the open ends of the
fixed and moveable plates c, d, (see Figure 4), and the stem is
situated between the curved opposed edges at i of the two plates c, d,
(see Figure 1). By now applying pressure to the stud part B in the
direction of the arrow, Figure 1, the head enters between the opposed
faces of the two plates c, d, and back plate f, and the stem 9 acting
against the curved edge of the moveable plate d presses the said plate
back, as represented in Figure 2, until the said stem arrives at the
recessed middle part d' of the plate d, when the said plate d is pressed
forward by the action of its spring e, and the recessed part d' snaps
upon the said stem 9 (see Figure 8), and the attachment of the orna-
mental front part A to the stud or back part B is complete.
.
In using my Invention the head of the back part B may be
passed through the eyelet holes in the sleeve or dress before the orna-
mental front part A is connected to it in the manner herein-before
described.
To detach the ornamental part A from the stud or back part B the
push piece of the moveable plate or slide d is pushed inwards,
as illustrated in Figures 2, 6, and 7, when the moveable plate or
slide d is separated from the fixed plate c so as to release the stem g
from the recess d' in the said moveable plate. The part A may now be
withdrawn from the stud part B by a sliding motion.
In order that the part B may be introduced into or withdrawn from
the part A at one side only of the part A a stop d is made on the

page_text: moveable plate or slide d, which stop, when the parts are in their
normal positions, takes into a cutaway part or recess c' in the fixed
plate c. The stop and recess c¹ may however be omitted. In this
case the stud part B may be introduced into and removed from the snap
fastening of the part A at either side.
By making the stem g flat the push piece d³ and guide o may bc
dispensed with. In this case the detaching of the ornament or part A
may be effected by giving it a slight twisting motion. The flat stem
by the twisting motion described separates the plates c, d, sufficiently
to allow of the stem g passing out from between them.
This modification of my Invention is represented fastened in Figure 12,
and in the act of being unfastened in Figure 13, where g is the flat
stem which when inclined or twisted opens the plates c, d, as seen in
Figure 13, and allows the said stem to be withdrawn from between the
plates c, d.
The stud part B may be used alone, that is, without the ornamental
part A, the head h of the part B being sufficiently large to secure the
said part B in the eyelet holes of the sleeve or dress.
When it is wished to apply an ornamental part A to the sleeve stud
it may be connected to the head of the said sleeve stud without
removing the latter from the sleeve or article of dress to which it is
attached.
The application of my Invention to solitaires and other dress
fastenings and ornaments differs in no essential respect from its appli-
cation to a sleeve stud herein-before described and illustrated in the
accompanying Drawing.
Having now described the nature of my Invention, and the manner in
which the same may be performed, I wish it to be understood that I do
not limit myself to the precise details herein described and illustrated,
as the same may be varied without departing from the nature of my
Invention, but I claim as my Invention the improvements in attaching
or connecting ornaments to collar and other studs, solitaires, and other
dress fastenings and articles of jewellery, hercin-before described and
illustrated in the accompanying Drawing, that is to say, fixing to an
ornament or ornamental part to be applied to the stud or dress fastening
or article of jewellery a spring snap fastening composed of the fixed

page_text: and moveable plates c, d, the said plates c, d, and parts connected
therewith being constructed, combined, and applied substantially as
described and illustrated, with which said snap fastening a head and
stem on the stud, dress fastening, or article of jewellery is connected
and disconnected, substantially as described and illustrated.
In witness whereof, I, the said John Reading, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, this Fourteenth day of September, in the
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-.
four
Witness,
RICHARD SKERRETT,
Clerk to George Shaw,
Birmingham.
JOHN READING. (L.S.)