improvements in the method or Means for Teaching Sewing.
Year: 1885

page_text: improvements in the method or Means for Teaching Sewing.
I ALFRED JULIUS BOULT of 323 High Holborn in the county of Middlesex,
Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE
METHOD OR MEANS FOR TEACHING SEWING" (a communication from Madame Paillot,
née Elvire Sophie Robiche of Coudun, France) to be as follows:-
The great difficulty in the teaching of sewing is to get regularity of stitches and
the cloth which is to be sewn is therefore marked with an impression of lines
indicating the place to be occupied by the stitches and this impression can be made
to disappear when the clothes come to be washed.
The distance between the stitches may be varied according to the texture of the
material.
When learners have made some little progress a few intervals should be skipped
between the markings for stitches.
The system above described is adapted for most kinds of sewing such for instance
as bemming felling whipping and running care being taken in these last named
stitches to make the distances smaller.
This plan of tracing can be made available for practical needlework to be done
even by children.
The marks may be traced on any cloth or stuff.

page_text: I ALFRED JULIUS BOULT of 323 High Holborn in the County of Middlesex,
Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention (a communication from
Madame Paillot née Elvire Sophie Robiche of Coudun in the Republic of France)
and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement:-
This invention consists in printing upon pieces or sheets of fabric (linen cotton
wool or the like) patterns or designs which serve to guide children or learners as to
the manner in which divers pieces of material have to be put together and sewn in
a regular manner.
In the annexed drawings:-
Figure 1 shows the design or pattern for whip stitch. After the material is cut
through the dotted line e f the two pieces are folded on lines a b and c d leaving
the dots visible. The two folds edges are then placed side by side and sewn
together through the dots by the pupil. The points or dots are further apart from
each other and from the edge in the first degree than in the second and third,
Figure 1bis shows the executed stitch. Figure 2 shows the design or pattern for
the hem-stitch. After the stuff is cut on line e f it is folded on line a band
refolded on line g h and the stitches are made through the dots.
Figure 2bis shows the executed stitch.
Figure 3 shows the design or pattern for the running stitch. This stitch is for
work which does not require much solidity. Fold the material on the line
about the distance of 5 millimeters from the line a b and the running stitches are
made through the dots. Figure 3bis shows the executed stitch. Figure 4 shows
the design or pattern for the fast running stitch. The lines and the work are the
same as in Figure 3 only that the needle passes rapidly from point to point to form
a light seam. The design is like all the others in 3 degrees from wider gradually
to smaller stitches. Figure 4bis shows the executed fast running stitch. Figure 5
shows the design or pattern for the back stitch for seams which are to have a
certain strength. The material is folded on the line g h which is about 7 milli-
meters apart from the line a b. The needle is passed through the first dot from
underneath then through the second to the 4th, back from the 3rd, to the 5th, and
so forth.
Figure 5 bis shows the executed back stitch.
Figure 6 shows the design or pattern for the turn-down and herring bone stitch
which serves to unite two pieces of material as firmly as possible, also to sew
woollens and flannels. For the turn-down stitch cut the material on line e fand
fold it on line ab place the part c d over this fold and sew them together
optionally with running or back stitch following the dots c d then turn down the
part a band fasten it with hem stitch.
For the herring bone stitch cut the material as before and sew the pieces
together with the running stitch as in Figure 3, then open the material out and
turn down the edges of both sides and execute the herring bone stitch as shown in
the second part of Figure 6 bls.

page_text: Figure 6bis shows in the first half the turn down stitch in back and side stitches,
in the other half the herring bone stitch.
Figure 6ter shows the turn down stitch in running stitches turned down partly
with hem stitch and partly with side stitch.
Figure 7 shows the design or pattern for the quilt stitch which combines beauty
and strength.
To execute this stitch fold the material on line g h which is about
5 millimeters apart from a band introduce the needle from underneath into the
2nd dot, then pass the needle from the first through the third, then from the second
through the fourth and so forth.
The Figure 7bis shows the executed stitch and the seam is a continuous row of
stitches without a break.
Figure 8 shows the design or pattern for the button-hole stitch. With our
design the simple button hole can be executed and consists in making a whip stitch
tied in each mark with a loop in the lower part, also the button hole for body linen
with a loop on the lower and upper parts and the so-called Tailors button-hole
which is executed like the first with a double thread passed along the edge of the
button hole slit over which the stitches are tied and which gives the button hole &
greater strength. This design like all the others is in 3 degrees with the stitches
rather wide in the first and then gradually getting narrower.
Figure 8bis shows a button hole of the first degree executed.
Figure 9 represents a piece of material from the exercise book being the first
degree of the hem stitch, showing four rows to be executed as per Figure 2.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of this said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed as communicated to
me by my foreign correspondent I declare that what I claim is
The method and means for teaching sewing consisting of sheets or pieces of
fabric, or the like upon which are imprinted or produced patterns or designs
consisting of lines which indicate how the fabric is to be cut and folded and
how and where the stitches are to be placed in the seam, the position of the
stitches being indicated by dots, stars, squares, or otherwise which may be either
printed on, woven in, or perforated through the said fabric or material substantially
as specified.
1000