IM- PROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF PILED FABRICS, AND IN THE MACHINERY OR APPARATUS EMPLOYED IN MANUFACTURING PILED AND OTHER FABRICS
Year: 1861

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Edward Briggs, of Castleton Mills, near Rochdale,
in the County of Lancaster, Silk Spinner and Manufacturer, and Samuel
Fearnley, of Rochdale, aforesaid, Engineer, for the Invention of "IM-
PROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF PILED FABRICS, AND IN THE MACHINERY
OR APPARATUS EMPLOYED IN MANUFACTURING PILED AND OTHER FABRICS."
Sealed the 16th July 1861, and dated the 27th March 1861.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Edward Briggs and
Samuel Fearnley at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with
their Petition, on the 27th March 1861.
We, EDWARD BRIGGS, of Castleton Mills, near Rochdale, in the County
of Lancaster, Silk Spinner and Manufacturer, and SAMUEL FEARNLEY, of
Rochdale, aforesaid, Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of the said
Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF PILED FABRICS, AND IN
THE MACHINERY OR APPARATUS EMPLOYED IN MANUFACTURING PILED AND OTHER
FABRICS," to be as follows:-
The first part of this Invention relates to the manufacture of double piled
fabrics, that is to say, two similar fabrics are produced at the same time, being
united in the weaving by the warp threads forming the pile, and separated
when woven into two distinct fabrics by the cutting across of the pile.

page_text: Our first improvement is applicable when weaving with only one pile warp,
which is not divided into two sets or divisions. In weaving the said piled
fabrics, three picks or shoots of weft are thrown into the sheds of the ground
warps of one fabric, and then three picks into the other ground warp, and so
on alternatively, at the same time crossing the pile warp in such a manner, in
connection with the body or ground warps of the fabrics, that when the pile is
cut across, it will be tied in the ground warps, as in weaving silk velvet
by hand.
Heretofore, when weaving two similar fabrics at the same time, such being
united by the pile warp, it has been customary to draw the pile warp through
the heddles which work the ground warps, before passing through the heddles
which work the said pile warps, and our improvement consists in the application
of an arrangement whereby the pile warp will not have to pass through the
heddles which work the ground warps; this we propose to do in the following
manner-We place the pile warp beam in bearings near the front part of
the loom, so that the person attending to the loom can reach it, then the pile
warp passes under and over guide bars, then through the heddles which work
the pile warp threads. We propose to work the heddles which cross the pile
warp from one fabric to the other, in the manner described in the Specification
of Letters Patent granted to the within-named Samuel Fearnley, on the
Seventeenth day of January, One thousand eight hundred and sixty, No. 116,
or otherwise.
Another of our improvements in weaving double piled fabrics, when wires
are used, consists of inserting the wires at or near the fell of the fabric. When
the loom is at work and one wire has been inserted between the ground warps
of the fabric, and the pile has been properly bound in by the weft, and that
another wire is about to be inserted, we place a guide made with a groove in
it at or near the side of the fabrics, in such a position that as the wire is
moved forward to be inserted it will be guided into a channel or opening made
in the ground warps, by means of the wire previously inserted, keeping the
ground warps a little apart at the fell of the fabric; the number of wires
to be employed may be varied according to the quality of the fabric to be
produced.
Another of our improvements applicable to looms in which wires with knives
or cutting edges are employed in weaving the said double fabrics consists in
the use of a grooved bar or instrument, which is affixed to the table which the
fabric passes over, in such a position that when the wire first inserted and
furthest from the reed is drawn out of the fabrics, the one part of the knife or

page_text: cutter at the end of the wire will enter the grooved bar, by which means the
grooved bar will support the pile against the edge of the cutter, but in order.
that the knife or cutter at the end of the wire may be more suro in its action
of entering the grooved bar, we make the groove a little wider at the end of
the bar. We also propose to work the lay by means of cams, and to form tho
said cams so as to givo a dwell to the lay when it comes forward to beat up
the work, by which means the wire furthest from the reed will be pressed
against the grooved bar while it is being drawn out of the fabrics; or the said
object can be accomplished by means of two springs placed one at each end of
the grooved bar to press it against the wire while it is being drawn out
of the fabrics.
:
Another of our improvements when using wires in weaving the said double
fabrics consists in making some of the wires with cutting edges and some
without; for instance, when four wires are employed, we propose to have
two with cutting edges and two without, but the proportion may be varied as
well as the number of wires employed at the same time; in this case each
cutting wire has to cut the pile of two or more wires. This part of our Inven-
tion is also applicable when grooved wires are used.
.
Another of our improvements consists in the machinery and apparatus for
cutting the pile of the said fabrics after it has been woven, and it may be
employed either in the loom or when the fabric is removed from the loom.
We employ two bars placed together in such a manner that they will form a slot,
in which a knife or cutter slides to and fro; the knife has one or more cutting
edges made on it in such a manner that when it is placed in the slot of the
bars the cutters will project a little through the slot, the cutting edge will be
on that side of the blade nearest the slot in the bars; we make the ends of the
cutters with very fine points so that they will enter freely the pile to be cut.
The cutters are attached to a carriage which moves upon a guide rail, and 'the
carriage may have motion given to it by means of levers in connection with
cams or in any other suitable manner.
Another part of our Invention consists in the application of an endless steel
band for cutting the pile warps uniting a double fabric; the steel band' is
taken around guide pulleys and one edge is sharpened.
Another part of our Invention consists in an improved mode of tightening
and holding the warps when the lay beats up the weft. A band or chain is
passed two or three times round a polley fixed to the end of the vibrator; one
end of this band or chain is connected to a spring or a weight and the other
end to a lever.
When the lay is beating up the lever is acted upon by a cam

page_text: or otherwise to tighten the band or chain, thereby partly turning the vibrator
and tightening the warp.
Another part of our Invention is applicable to the picking motion of looms,
and consists in an improved arrangement of parts for giving the requisite
impulse to the picking sticks by means of springs. The picking stick is con-
nected to a crank by a link, and this crank is on the same shaft as a segment
with a catch, which is held by a pall. Around the segment a chain or band
passes which is connected to the spring. When the pall is acted upon by the
tappet shaft the segment is liberated and the spring instantly turns the crank
partly round, thus acting on the picking stick. The spring is again set for the
next operation by means of a cam on the tappet or other shaft of the loom.
The lever by which the pall is acted upon is jointed so as to yield without
releasing the pall, when the motion of the loom is reversed.
Another part of our Invention consists in certain improved friction pulleys
and catches applicable to the taking up and letting off motions of looms. The
first of these consists of a forked lever to which catches are hinged, which act
on each side of a friction plate; the second consists of a jointed lever, part of
which forms a catch acting on the circumference of a friction pulley; and the
third consists of a jointed lever and of a friction band or chain passing around
the friction pulley. . One end of the band or chain is fixed to the outer part of
the jointed lever and the other end to the joint pin..
Another improvement in the taking-up, and letting-off motions consists in
the application thereto of a spiral ratchet wheel, the teeth of which are of
gradually increasing or decreasing lengths and the diameter the same
throughout. The teeth are separated by, a flange, for the driving catches to
bear upon, and thereby to prevent the edges of the teeth or catches being
injured; this; flange, is applicable to conical and coiled ratchet wheels.
The last part of our Invention consists in the application to looms. of a self-
acting apparatus, by means whereof the speed of the letting-off motion or the
speed of the taking-up motion is maintained at an uniform velocity. One mode
of effecting this is by making a screw, on the end of the roller over which the warp
or, woven fabric is: taken. This screw passes through a toothed wheel which
gears into a long pinion in which, a worm works, and this worm is fixed on
the same, shaft as a ratchet wheel, which is turned round by a pall; acted upon
by the lay sword or other convenient part of the loom. As long as the warp
or fabric causes, the roller to revolve at, the same speed as that imparted to
the long pinion by the, worm, the speeds, of; the, wheel; and the roller coincide
and no lateral motion, is given; to the wheel, but when the warp or fabric

page_text: moves too fast a lateral motion is given to the wheel, which notion by means of
a lever or other connection reduces the amount of warp given off or of fabric
taken up the contrary action takes place when the warp or fabric is not
moving fast enough.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Edward Briggs and Samuel Fearnley in the Great Seal
Patent Office on the 27th September 1861..
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, EDWARD
BRIGGS, of Castleton Mills, near Rochdale, in the County of Lancaster, Silk
Spinner and Manufacturer, and SAMUEL FEARNLEY, of Rochdale, aforesaid,
Engineer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-seventh day of March, in the year of our Lord
Ono thousand eight hundred and sixty-one, in the twenty-fourth year of
Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto
us, the said Edward Briggs and Samuel Fearnley, Her special licence
that we, the said Edward Briggs and Samuel Fearnley, our executors,
administrators, and assigns, or such others as we, the said Edward Briggs and
Samuel Fearnley, our executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any
time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter
during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use,
exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland,
the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
THE MANUFACTURE OF PILED FABRICS, AND IN THE MACHINERY OR APPARATUS
EMPLOYED IN MANUFACTURING PILED AND OTHER FABRICS," upon the condition
(amongst others) that we, the said Edward Briggs and Samuel Fearnley,
our executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under our, or
their, or one of our or their hands and seals, should particularly describe
and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the
same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal
Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the date
of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that we, the said Edward Briggs and Samuel
Fearnley, do hereby declare the nature of our said Invention, and in what

page_text: manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascer-
tained in and by the following statement (that is to say):--
The first part of this Invention relates to the manufacture of double piled
fabrics, that is to say, where two similar fabrics are produced at the same time,
being united in the weaving by the warp threads forming the pile, and sepa-
rated when woven into two distinct fabrics by the cutting across of the pile.
Our first improvement is illustrated by the Diagram, Figure 1, on Sheet 1
of the, accompanying Sheet of Drawings, and it is applicable when weaving
double-piled fabrics with only one pile warp, which warp is not divided into
two sets or divisions. In weaving the said piled fabrics three picks or shoots
of weft are thrown into the sheds of the ground warps of one fabric, and then
three picks into the other ground warp, and so on alternatively, at the same
time crossing the pile warp, which is shewn by the dotted lines in such a
nanner in connection with the body or ground warps of the fabrics, that when
the pile is cut across it will be tied in the ground warps as in weaving silk
velvet by hand. Heretofore, when weaving two similar fabrics at the same time,
such fabrics being united by the pile warp, it has been customary to draw the
pile warp through the heddles which work the ground warps before passing
through the heddles which work the said pile warps.
And the second part of our Invention, which is illustrated by Figures 2
and 3; consists in so arranging the parts of the loom that the pile warp will
not have to pass through the heddles which work the ground warps; this we
propose to do in the following manner-We place the pile warp beam a in
bearings near the front part of the loom, so that the attendant can reach it;
the pile warp then passes under the guide bar b, and over the guide bar c,
then through the heddles d, which work the pile warp threads; the pile warp
before entering the heddles d is guided by the bar e, which keeps it clear of
the shaft of the heddles. We propose to work the heddles which cross the pile
warp from one fabric to the other in the manner described in the Specification
of Letters Patent granted to the within-named Samuel Fearnley, on the
Seventeenth of January, One thousand eight hundred and sixty, Number 116,
and illustrated by the Figures 1, 2, and 3 of Sheet 1 of the Drawings forming
part of the said Specification, or otherwise.
Our third improvement is applicable in weaving double-piled fabrics when
wires are used, and it consists in inserting the wires at or near the fell of the
fabric, instead of in the open shed or near the reed, as now customary. This
part of our Invention is shewn in Figures 4 and 5, which are drawn full size.
When the loom is at work and one or more wires have been inserted between

page_text: the ground warps of the fabric, and the pile has been properly bound in by tho
weft, and that another wire is about to be inserted, we place a guide f made
with a groove in it at or near the side of the fabrics in such a position that as
the wire is moved forward to be inserted, as shewn in Figure 5, it will be
guided into a channel or opening made in the ground warps by means of the
wire previously inserted, keeping the ground warps a little apart at the fell of
the fabric. The number of wires to be employed may be varied according to
the quality of the fabric to be produced.
Our fourth improvement is applicable to looms in which wires with knives
or cutting edges are employed in weaving the said double fabrics, and it is
illustrated in reference to Figures 6 and 7. Our improvement consists in the
use of a grooved bar or instrument g, which is affixed to the table or breast
beam, over which the fabric passes in such a position that when the wire first
inserted and furthest from the reed is drawn out of the fabrics, the one part of
the knife or cutter h at the end of the wire, see Figure 7, will enter the
grooved bar, by which means the grooved bar will support the pile against the
edge of the cutter, but in order that the knife or cutter at the end of the wire
may be more sure in its action of entering the grooved bar, we make the
groove a little wider at the end of the bar.
When this cutting apparatus is
means of cams acting on bowls
employed we propose to work the lay by
binged to the lay swords, as shewn in Figure 2, and as now customary in
weaving certain descriptions of fabrics, and we form the said cams so as to give
a dwell to the lay when it comes forward to beat up the work; by this means
the wire furthest from the reed will be pressed against the grooved bar g while
it is being drawn out of the fabrics, or the said object can be accomplished by
means of two springs placed one at each end of the grooved bar to press it
against the wire while it is being drawn out of the fabrics.
The fifth part of our Invention consists in the application of an endless steel
band for cutting the pile warps uniting a double fabric; the steel band is
taken around guide pulleys, and one edge is sharpened. When this improved
cutting apparatus is applied to the loom in which the double fabric is woven,
as shewn in Figure 8, the endless steel band i passes over the guide pulleys j,
one of which is mounted loose on a stud fixed in the loom side, and the other
is driven by any suitable gearing; the double fabric is guided between the
guide bars k, k, and the endless band i is guided between the bars 1. 7. When
the warp threads are cut the two pieces of piled fabrics are guided over the
rollers l', and 12, and then wound on rollers, or otherwise disposed of. When
this improved cutting apparatus is applied apart from the loom the double fabric

page_text: is wound on a roller m, see Figures 9 and 10, on Sheet 2. This roller is gra-
dually unwound, and the fabric is taken between the guide bars k, k, to the
endless band i, which is guided in the grooved rail 7; the band i passes around
the guide pulleys j, j. By cutting the double fabric in a separate machine a
great saving will be effected, as our cutting machine will answer for many looms.
The sixth part of our Invention consists in an improved mode of tightening
and holding the warps when the lay beats up the weft; this apparatus is an
improvement upon that shewn and described in reference to Figures 1, 2, and 5
of Sheet 1 of the Drawings forming part of the Specification of the Letters
Patent granted to Samuel Fearnley, on the Seventeenth of January, One
thousand eight hundred and sixty, Number 116. The band or chain nis
passed two or three times round a pulley n', fixed to the end of the vibrator n²;
one end of this band or chain is connected to a spring n³, or to a weight, and
the other end to a lever n'. When the lay is beating up the lever n' is acted
upon by a cam n, fixed on the crank shaft or other convenient part of the
loom, thereby tightening the band or chain n, and partly turning the
vibrator and tightening the warp. When the lever n' is bearing on the
small diameter of the cam n³ the chain n is slack, and the open link rests upon
the bracket n°.
The seventh part of our Invention is applicable to the taking-up and letting-
off motions of looms, and it consists in the application thereto of a coiled ratchet
wheel, the teeth of which are separated by a flange, as shewn in Figures 11
and 12, which represent part of a loom with the coiled ratchet wheel o applied to
the letting-off motion; this ratchet wheel is fixed to the end of the shaft p, to
which is also fixed the change pinion pl gearing into the change pinion p²,
which is attached to the same shaft as the worm q gearing into the worm
wheel on the warp beam 9. The catches o' for acting on the ratchet
wheel o are jointed to arms projecting from the bush o2, which is made to slide
to and fro on the stud o". When the warp beam is full; the catches o¹ are
near the circumference of the ratchet wheel o, and as the warp is unwound,
the catches gradually approach the centre of the ratchet wheel, thereby
governing the let-off according to the diameter of the warp beam; the object
of the flange between the coils is to prevent the catches o' from being injured
by acting on the edges of the ratchet teeth. When this improved ratchet
wheel is applied to the taking-up motion, the catches are traversed from
near the centre to the circumference in proportion to the increasing diameter
of the cloth beam.
The last part of our Invention consists in the application to looms of a self-

page_text: acting apparatus, by means whereof the speed of the letting-off motion, or the
speed of the taking-up motion is maintained at an uniform velocity. One mode
of effecting this is represented in Figures 11 and 12, in which views r represents
a screw on the end of the roller r¹, the surface of which is roughened to give
friction, and over which the woven fabric is taken; this screw passes through a
toothed wheel, which gears into a long pinion s, in which a worm s¹ works,
and this worm is fixed on the same shaft as a ratchet wheel s, which is turned
by the palls, acted upon by the double lever s', one arm of which is worked
by the lay sword, or by any other convenient part of the loom. As long as the
fabric causes the roller r to. revolve at the same speed as that imparted to the
long pinion s by the worm s¹, the speeds of the wheel and the roller r
coincide, and no lateral motion is given to the wheel, but when the fabric
moves too slow, a lateral motion in the direction of the arrow in Figure 11 is
given to the wheel by the screw 2, which motion, by means of the feeler s
and levers, or other connection, traverses the catches o¹ nearer to the centre
of the ratchet wheel o, and increases the amount of warp given off; the
contrary action takes place when the fabric is moving too fast.
This regulating motion is also applicable for governing the taking-up of the
cloth, and we wish to remark that the apparatus for regulating the taking-up
of the cloth and the letting-off of the warp may be applied to looms furnished
with other taking-up or letting-off motions. We would also observe that when
the coiled ratchet wheel o is used without the regulating motion shewn in
Figures 11 and 12, the catches o' are traversed across the face of the ratchet
wheel by a lever in connection with the cloth beam or warp beam.
Having thus described the nature and particulars of our Invention, we
declare that we claim,―
First, the improvement in the manufacture of doubled-piled fabrics, as shewn
and described in reference to Figure 1.
Secondly, when weaving double-piled fabrics, the taking of the pile warp
direct to the heddles, as shewn and described in reference to the Figures 2 and 3.
Thirdly, in weaving double-piled fabrics, the inserting the wire near the
fell or woven part of the fabric, as shewn and described in reference to
Figures 4 and 5.
Fourthly, the guide rail, shewn and described in reference to Figures 6
and 7, for guiding the cutter and supporting the pile while being cut.
Fifthly, the application of an endless steel band for cutting or dividing
double-piled fabrics, as shewn and described in reference to Figures 8, 9,
and 10.

page_text: Sixthly, the improved arrangement of parts for tightening the warps when
the lay beats up, as shewn and described in reference to Figure 2.
Seventhly, the improved coiled ratchet wheel when applied to the taking-up
and letting-off motions of looms as shewn and as described in reference to
Figures 11 and 12.
Eighthly, the application to looms of a self-acting apparatus, by means
whereof the speed of the letting-off motion and the speed of the taking-up
motion are regulated, as shewn and described in reference to Figures 11
and 12, or any modification of machinery for effecting the same result.
In witness whereof, we, the said Edward Briggs and Samuel Fearnley,
have hereunto set our hands and seals, this Twenty-sixth day of
September, in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and
sixty-one.
EDWARD BRIGGS.
(L.S.)
SAMUEL FEARNLEY. (L.S.)