Improvements in the Manufacture of Out Pile Fabrics and in Apparatus employed therein, parts of which Apparatus are also applicable to the Weaving of other Fabrics.
Year: 1894

page_text: Date of Application, 19th Jan., 1894
Complete Specification Left, 19th Oct., 1894-Accepted, 24th Nov., 1894
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Out Pile Fabrics and in
Apparatus employed therein, parts of which Apparatus are also
applicable to the Weaving of other Fabrics.
We, JAMES DUFF of Barum House, Harrison Road, Halifax in the County
of York, Chartered Accountant, JAMES VAUGHAN of 42 Turner Place, Great
Horton Road, Bradford in the County of York, Engineer and GUSTAVUS
ADOLPHUS JOHN SCHOTT of West End Mills, Longside Lane, Bradford, aforesaid
Manufacturer (all of the Velvet Syndicate of Bradford, aforesaid) do hereby
declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:—
Our said invention relates mainly to the manufacture of cut weft pile fabrics and
to improvements in the mode of weaving & cutting the same. In carrying out our
invention we in the main use the methods and apparatus for which one of us, the
said G. A. J. Schott has obtained Her Majesty's Letters Patents No. 655
and 13082 both of the year 1889, and all three of us have obtained Her Majesty's
Letters Patent No. 17610 of the year 1891. But we have introduced several
modifications of parts and additions in the same, which we find of material
advantage & which mainly form the subject-matter of the present Application. In
the Specification No. 655 of 1889 page 3 at lines 17 to 31 with reference to
Fig. 1 thereof, it is described and shown how the knifebar receives a movement in
the direction of the reed from the lay at the movement of beating up.
We find it
advantageous to be able to delay this movement of the knifebar a little, so that.
it takes place an instant after the lay has arrived in its most forward position
nearest to the breast-beam, but before it recedes, which we effect by obtaining such.
movement independently of the lay. We prefer to mount for this purpose a tappet
wheel of suitable shape on the crankshaft of the loom which at every revolution of
the crankshaft acts upon a bowl fixed at one end of a lever, which is mounted
to rock upon a fulcrum at its other end. The said lever thereby receives
a forward movement in the direction of the breast-beam of the loom and being
connected by a link with a lever answering to the lever g¹ Fig. 1 (Spec. 6558)
the said movement is transmitted substantially as shewn in the said Specification to
the knifebar, the recovery being effected by a spiral spring.
According to the position of the tappet nose with reference to the bowl upon
which it acts this movement can be timed either to coincide with the beat up of the
lay or to vary therefrom to any small degree requisite.
A further improvement consists in the provision of mechanism, by the action of
which the knifeshed closes after the warpshed, so that the cutting edges of the
knives are pushed into the reed and floats to be cut, whilst the knives are still
at the bottom of their shed, but the warpshed has closed. The knives are there-
fore, whilst cutting the pilepick, in an inclined position passing from the knifebar
above the cloth by the beat up of the cloth to their heald mails below the level
of the cloth; they are thereby thrown into close contact with the cloth at its
line of beat up, which is of great importance, when the floats are short or thrown
on the back or underside of the cloth. A further advantage of the knives and
warpthreads changing at different times is, that more room is left for their passage
in the reed and healds. The main part of the mechanism consists of cams of
suitable shape, the action of which is arranged to draw down the knives and
determine the time of their remaining down, and the change of shed when and
as required.

page_text: The said cams are driven from the crank or tappetshafts and work a series of
catches connected by levers to the knifehealds. The catches can be thrown in or
out of connection with the cams as required by the ordinary loom dobby.
The knifeshafts are at topshed when not in use, and draw down when their
corresponding catches are thrown into connection with the cams. A clearer shed
is also obtained by this arrangement for the passage of the shuttle between the
knives, the knifeshed being fully open before the shuttle enters and remaining so
until after it has passed home.
In place of the method of attachment of the knives to the heald or harness
described in the Specification 6558 in connection with Fig. 7 thereof we adopt an
improved arrangement consisting of a specially designed mail in which the knife-
end is fixed by means of an eyelet is such manner that it can turn on the said
eyelet as on a pivot to the extent required by its being lifted & lowered. The mail
is attached to a wire which passes through it and the ends of which are connected
with the shafts or harness.
As we find that the ordinary temples generally used on power looms for
expanding the cloth at the beat up are apt to mark the cloth and have other
disadvantages, we have devised a temple of a special construction which avoids
these disadvantages and, by catching the piece close up to the beat up, prevent it
from shrinking until after it has passed the temple.
Our improved temple consists of two jaws placed above one another or side by
side, provided with pins for catching the edges close to the beat up. The bearings.
of these temples are not placed under the cloth as is the case with most ordinary
temples, but outside the cloth. A temple is placed on each side of the cloth and
one of its jaws has always hold of the edge whilst the other is changing position.
The jaws are adapted to travel with the cloth for a short distance after having
taken hold of it, and to recover their original position on being released. The
slight movement required in changing the jaws may be obtained in any suitable
manner by mechanism connected with moving parts of the loom or by hand. Our
improved temple is also available with advantage in weaving other classes of goods
on ordinary looms.
In producing the novel classes of cloths which our improved apparatus is adapted
for, it is necessary in order to attain the best possible results to evolve by an
extended series of experiments the most suitable weaving designs or drafts. We
have thus found that for the production of velvets or plushes which shall have a
plain uniform cut pile all over both sides of the fabric, the best and most even
results are obtained by weaving in the pile in such a manner that the cutpile
threads on one side of the fabric are all inclined in one direction say to the right,
whilst on the other side they are all inclined to the left, and that they are set about
as much as possible either in one direction only or in both directions. Cloths
woven in that manuer will besides other advantages show an extraordinary amount
of lustre after finishing.
Dated this Eleventh day of January 1894.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Cut Pile Fabrics and in
Apparatus employed therein, parts of which Apparatus are also
applicable to the Weaving of other Fabrics.
We, JAMES DUFF of Barum House, Harrison Road, Halifax, in the County of
York, Chartered Accountant, JAMES VAUGHAN of 42 Turner Place, Bradford
in the County of York, Engineer, and GUSTAVUS ADOLPHUS JOHN SCHOTT of
50

page_text: West End Mills, Bradford, aforesaid, Manufacturer (all of the Velvet Syndicate
of Bradford, aforesaid) do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in
what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement :-
Our said said invention relates mainly to the manufacture of cut weft pile fabrics
and to improvements in the mode of weaving and cutting the same. In carrying
out our invention we in the main use the methods and apparatus for which one of
us, the said G. A. J. Schott has obtained Her Majesty's Letters Patent No. 655
and 13082 both of the year 1889, and all three of us have obtained Her Majesty's
Letters Patent No. 17610 of the year 1891. But we have introduced several
modifications of parts and additions in the same, which we find of material
advantage and which mainly form the subject-matter of the present Application.
In order that our invention may be clearly understood we will describe the same
more fully with reference to the accompanying drawings, of which
Fig. 1, is a side elevation of mechanism, as mounted on the loom, illustrating the
manner of actuating the knifebar from the crank shaft of the loom.
Fig. 2, is a front view of the mechanism necessary to close the knife shed after
the warp shed.
Figs. 3, 5, 4 & 6 are plan, front elevation and side elevations respectively of
parts not clearly shown in Fig. 2.
Figs. 7 & 8, are side and front views respectively of the mail and heald wire and
show their mode of attachment.
Fig. 9, is a cross section through the mail along the dotted line shown in Fig. 7.
Fig. 10, is a plan of the improved temple and Figs. 11 to 14 are side elevations
of parts not clearly shown in Fig. 10.
In the Specification No. 655 of 1889 page 3 at lines 17 to 31 with reference to
Fig. 1 thereof, it is described and shown how the knifebar receives a movement in
the direction of the reed from the lay at the moment of beating up. We find it
advantageous to be able to delay this movement of the knifebar a little, so that
it takes place an instant after the lay has arrived in its most forward position
nearest to the breast beam, but before it recedes, which we effect by obtaining such
movement independently of the lay. The improved arrangement is illustrated in
the accompanying Fig. 1. We prefer to mount for this purpose a tappet
wheel "a" of suitable shape on the crankshaft of the loom "" which at every
revolution of the crankshaft acts upon a bowl "c" fixed at one end of a lever "d,"
which is mounted to rock upon a fulcrum "e" at its other end. The said
lever "d" thereby receives a forward movement in the direction of the breast
beam "i" of the loom and being connected by a link "f" with a lever "g" fixed
upon a rock shaft "" which is mounted in bearings attached to the breast
beam "," gives a corresponding turn to the shaft "." Upon the same shaft are
fixed one or more levers "/" connected by link or links " m' to the knifebar "n
which has in this manner imparted to it the movement towards the reed as above-
mentioned, owing to the turn given to shaft "" the recovery being effected by a
spiral spring "h." According to the position of the tappet nose with reference to
the bowl upon which it acts this movement can be timed either to coincide with the
beat up of the lay or to vary therefrom to any small degree requisite.
"
"
A further improvement consists in the provision of mechanism, by the action of
which the knifeshed closes after the warpshed, so that the cutting edges of the
knives are pushed into the reed and floats to be cut, whilst the knives are still at
the bottom of their shed, but the warpshed has changed. The knives are therefore,
whilst cutting the pilepick, in an inclined position, passing from the knifebar above
the cloth by the beat up of the cloth to their knife mails below the level of the
cloth; they are thereby thrown into close contact with the cloth at its line of beat
up, which is of great importance, when the floats are short or thrown on the back
or underside of the cloth. A further advantage of the knives and warpthreads
changing at different times is, that more room is left for their passage in the reed
and healds. The main part of the mechanism consists of two cams a & a' Fig. 2,"
86

page_text: the action of which is arranged to draw down the knives and determine the time of
their remaining down, and the change of shed when and as required. The said
cams are driven from the crank or tappet shafts and work a series of catches
connected by levers to the knifehealds or shafts. The catches can be thrown in or
out of connection with the cams as required by the ordinary loom dobby, jacquard
or other appliance used for that purpose. The knifeshafts are .at topshed when
not in use, and drawn down when their corresponding catches are thrown into
connection with the cams. A clearer shed is also obtained by this arrangement for
the passage of the shuttle between the knives, the knifeshed being fully open before
the shuttle enters and remaining so until after it has passed home. The improved
combination of mechanism we employ for these purposes in the case of shaft-
weaving is shewn in Fig. 2 in which we have shown as far as possible without
rendering the drawing indistinct the main parts of the combination in the two
positions of "rest" and "action," the former being shown in full lines, the latter in
dotted lines. Figs. 3. 4. & 5 are illustrations of details of the combination. In
these drawings corresponding parts bear the same letters of reference. The action
of the mechanism is as follows:
Two cams
"a & a¹ Fig. 2" are fixed one above the other on an upright shaft "b"
Fig. 2 which is revolved continuously from the crank or tappet shaft in any
convenient manner, making one full revolution for every two picks. The two
cams "a & a" are of the same shape and size but mounted on the shaft "6" in
opposite directions as shewn. In revolving each cam acts upon a bowl (c & c¹
Figs. 2 & 3) fixed to two rectangular frames, one of which is fully shown in Fig. 3,
but only the two sides d, d² and d¹, d³ in Fig. 2. The sides d, d¹, act as sliding
catchbars to the catches "e, e¹" when they are thrown into counexion in the
following manner :
The bridle "f" Figs. 2 & 5 consists of two narrow flat strips of metal connected
together by three studs 9, 91, 9³ in such a manner that there is an open space
between the two metal strips in the portion between studs 9 & 9', whilst
between " & " the space is filled up solid; through the upper open space "g
to "the fish lever "A" Figs. 2 & 4 is introduced which pivots on a stud "i" and
the tail "h" of which rests on a stud "." The bridle is suspended by wire from
the ordinary jacquard, dobby or shedding motions and when lifted by them its
stud "g" comes in contact with the step" of the fish lever "h," whereby the
latter is tilted as shewn by the dotted lines until its corner point "*" comes in
contact with the solid lower portion "g₁ to 9" of the bridle "." The latter is
thereby knocked off and allows the fish lever "h" to resume its original position
by its own weight or assisted by a suitable spring or weight, the purpose and
effect of which changes of position of the fish lever will be hereafter apparent.
","Figs. 1. 2 & 6 are knifeshafts having wires "k, k¹" attached by eyescrews
to run along their inner edges. On the wires "k, k¹" are hung the healdwires "1"
as shewn more clearly in Fig. 1 & 6, to which are attached mails "m" by the
wires ""passing and being bent through two holes "" in the mails
shewn more clearly in Figs. 7 & 8. Fig. 9 is a cross section through the centre of
the mail "m" as shewn in Fig. 7. The knife shafts are held in position of rest by
either weights or springs in the ordinary manner, and are drawn down by the action
of the two-armed levers "n, n¹" Fig. 2 attached to the knife heald shaft "1" by
wires or otherwise. The levers "n, n¹" turn on the studs "o, o¹" and are con-
nected together by the link "p." Link ""connects levers "n¹ and r," which
latter pivots on stud "t" and is linked by "u to catch beam "v" carrying the
catches "e, e¹" as shewn.
"
"
66
"
When at rest the catches "e, e¹" are held clear of the catchbars "d, d'," (which
have a continuous reciprocating sliding motion imparted to them as before
described by two needles provided with buttons". w, w," which work through
needlebars " ," and are bung by spiral springs "y, y" in eye "*" of the
fishlever "h."
When a knife shaft is required to be lowered to the bottom of the shed in order

page_text: a,
5,
to cut a pilepick, the bridle "" is lifted, tilting fishlever "h" as described, thereby
lowering the needles "w, w "and catches "e, e" on to the sliding catchbars "d, d.
As the cams",
al" operate in opposite directions to each other the catch" " in
the example is caught on catchbar "d" (as shewn in dotted lines). As soon as
catchbar "d" has taken hold of catch "e" the point "h" of the fishlever "/" dis-
engages the bridle "f" allowing the fishlever "h" to resume its original position,
thereby stretching the spiral spring "y." As catch "e" is not caught on the
bar "d" the spiral spring "y" lifts the catch "e" out of range of catch-
bar "d."
"
The catch "e" being caught by catch bar "d" is pulled forward thereby and
acting upon the beam"
V "and the levers and links u, r, s, n', p & n, pulls down
the knifeshafts "j, j as shewn in the drawing in dotted lines, thus forming a
complete knifeshed (see Fig. 6). After the shuttle has passed and the pilepick
has been beaten up and cut, the revolution of the cam "a" allows catchbar "d"
and catch "e" to retire, and the knife shaft to be lifted into its original position
by the weights or springs attached to it as before mentioned, and also allows
spiral spring "y" to contract and thereby lift up catch "e." As will be under-
stood the catch "el" operates exactly in the same way as catch "e" according
to the relative position of the cams "a, a¹." The cams "a, a¹" are so adjusted
that the knifeshed is open to its fullest extent before the shuttle enters the said
shed and remains so until after the weft is cut and the lay receding. In jacquard
weaving the mechanism has to be correspondingly modified.
In place of the method of attachment of the knives to the heald or harness
described in the Specification 655% in connection with Fig. 7 thereof we adopt an
improved arrangement more particularly shown in Figs. 1. 7. 8 & 9 consisting of
a specially designed mail "m," made by preference of sheet brass doubled, between
which the knife end is fixed by means of a metal eyelet "m" in such manner
that the knife can turn on the said eyelet as on a pivot to the extent required
by its being lifted and lowered. The mail "m" is attached to an elastic steel
wire "" which passes through two apertures "z" of the mail and the bands
of the wire at "" are sufficient to hold the mail "m" in position. The ends
of the wire "" are bent into hooks and connected with the shafts or harness as
before described.
A further improvement relates to the construction of a temple, a main advantage
of which is, that it is adapted to hold the cloth closer to the line of beat-up
than is possible with the star and roller temples generally in use and thereby
prevents the cloth from shrinking until after it has passed the temples. This
temple we have more particularly devised for the weaving of the pile fabrics,
produced by our method and apparatus, but it is also available with advantage
in the weaving of other classes of goods, and we therefore do not confine ourselves
in its use to our special purposes.
C.
Our improved temple is illustrated in Figs. 10, 11, 12, 13 & 14, bearing the
same letters of reference for corresponding parts. Fig. 10 is a plan view of the
right hand temple partly in section. The left hand temple corresponds to the right
hand temple, except that the position of the parts is reversed. Figs. 11 to 14 are
vertical elevations of parts belonging to Fig. 10 but not capable of being all clearly
shown therein. In Fig. 10 "a" represents the breastbeam of the loom, to
which is bolted the fixed portion "6" of the temple support, whilst a sliding
portion "6" can be adjusted laterally to the piece by means of the screw
A shaft "d" is mounted to revolve in the sliding portion "6" of the temple
support. Shaft "d" has fixed upon it the porcupine roller "e" which has steel
pins protruding from its surface (or a friction roller constructed in any suitable
manner or material might be substituted therefor). Over the roller "e" and in
close contact therewith the cloth travels on its way to the breastbeam, thereby
turning said roller and shaft "d," which motion is transferred to a screw ""
by means of a pair of toothed bevelwheels "g & gl" mounted on shaft "d" and
screw "respectively. On the screw "f" and revolving therewith is fixed a

page_text: 66
peg m
"
66
66
$6
m
n1"
n n
"
heart "" which revolves with the screw "" between two prongs (not shewn in
Figs. 10 & 11) of the part or fork "i" which has a peg "," fixed to the temple
support "b," as a pivot, upon which it turns to and fro, following the action of
the heart ""upon the two prongs of the fork "i." Two round pegs "m m1"
are fixed in the boss of the fork "i" one above the other, of which only the
upper one "m" is shown in Fig. 1. Each of them passes through one end of,
and carries a jaw "n n'," which are capable of sliding sideways in either direction
upon the said pegs m" and are pressed by flat springs "oo" fixed to the
ends of the jaws
the upper
upon
and under surface of the screw "f."
Only the upper jaw "with its spring "o" is shewn in Fig. 10. A thread
corresponding with the thread of the screw "f" is arranged on the inner side of
each jaw which gears with the screw "f," when the heart "" is in the neutral
position shewn in Fig. 12, and consequently as the screw "f" revolves, its thread
acts upon the jaw n or n" and causes it to move in the direction of the breast-
beam "a," thereby compressing a spiral spring "p" which is coiled round the
as shewn in Fig. 10 and a like spiral spring is also fitted upon the
peg "m" (not shewn). Whilst in gear with screw "1" the piece ends of
the jaws "n n" have hold of the edge of the cloth by means of steel pins inserted
in them, and the motions are so timed that the piece and the jaws "n n¹," when in
gear with screw """ travel towards the breast beam together, that is to say at
equal speed. The jaws "n, n¹" have however not always hold of the piece at the
same time but are alternately released by the action of the revolving heart "h."
When the heart "h" is in the neutral position shewn in Fig. 12, both jaws are in
gear with screw "f" as beforementioned and have hold of the piece, but as ""
in the course of its revolution approaches and attains the position shewn in
Fig. 13, the peg
"m" and upper jaw "n" are slightly tilted forward, and a pro-
tuberance "%' on the jaw "," coming in contact by such tilting with the
screw "the upper jaw "n" is slightly lifted off and thrown out of gear with the
screw "f" and out of contact with the piece. As soon as it is thus thrown out of
gear with "f" the spiral spring "p" which has been compressed as before-
mentioned by the movement of the jaw towards the breast beam is free to expand
and pushes home the jaw "n," which slides along the peg "m" and screw ""up
"arranged on the peg "m." By this time the heart “h” has again
assumed a neutral position, which allows of the spring "o" pressing back the
jaw "n" into its normal position as shewn in Fig. 11, in which it is thrown into
gear with the screw "f" and into contact with the cloth close to the line of
beat-up, and resumes its movement towards the breastbeam along with the cloth.
Meanwhile as the heart "A" attains the position shewn in Fig. 14 its action
causes the same round of changes of the lower jaw "n'," which has just been
described with regard to the upper jaw " Th Whilst one jaw is thus tilted
forward and released from the screw "f" and the cloth, the other jaw is slightly
tilted backward and thereby tightens slightly upon the cloth. As will be readily
, understood the round of action of the jaws "nn¹ is thus as follows:
to a stop
66
At the neutral perióds of a revolution of the heart "h" both jaws have hold
of the cloth and travel with it towards the breastbeam. Then one jaw is released,
and pushed home to the line of beat-up, where it takes fresh hold of the piece.
After it has done so, the other jaw is released, pushed home and takes fresh hold
and so on.
In this manner the jaws act alternately, one never releasing the
piece until the other has taken hold.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what we
claim is :
n
"
1. Actuating the knifebar “ Fig. 1 from the crankshaft of the loom
substantially in the manner and for the purposes set forth.
2. In the method of weaving and cutting cut weft pile fabrics wherein each pile
pick is cut as it is beaten up by means of knives forming a shed, causing the

page_text: knifeshed to close after the warpshed so that the knives are at the bottom of their
shed when cutting, substantially as and for the purposes set forth.
3. The combination of parts substantially as and for the purposes set forth and
indicated with reference to Figs. 2, 3, 4 & 5 of the drawings.
4. The mode of attachment of the knives to healds or harness by means of the
mails "m," eyelets "m" and wires "/" substantially as described and shewn in
Figs. 1. 7. 8 & 9.
5. The new or improved temple having two jaws which alternately take hold of
the cloth close to the line of beat-up for the purpose of keeping it expanded, and
are automatically released for the purpose of changing position, substantially as
described and illustrated with reference to Figs. 10 to 14 of the drawings.
Dated this Seventeenth day of October 1894.
JAMES DUFF.
JAMES VAUGHAN.
GUSTAVUS ADOLPHUS JOHN SCHOTT.