Improvements in Attaching Bindings to the Brims of Hats.
Year: 1897

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION (AMENDED).
Improvements in Attaching Bindings to the Brims of Hats.
We, WELCOME PENNSON GAMMONS, JR. and GEORGE STEPHEN BRACHER, Manu-
facturers, both residing at 22 West 3rd St, in New York City, County and State of
New York, United States of America, do hereby declare the nature of this invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed. to be particularly described
and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
Our invention relates to the art of attaching bindings to the brims of bats, and it
consists in fitting a hat having a stiff, curled, or rolled brim, and with a binding with
having its inner edge connected to the inner side of the brim by stitches extending
through the same and being turned over the edge of the brim so as to cover said edge
and also cover and protect the connecting stitches; the said binding having its ends
"snapped-or connected together subsequent to its connection to the brim and prior
to its being turned or snapped over the edge of the same, for a purpose hereinafter
pointed out.
The invention also consists in a sewing machine which although designed more
especially for connecting one edge of bindings to stiff, curled, or rolled hat brims, may
be used to advantage in connecting one edge of bindings to soft hat brims.
Other objects and advantages of the invention will be fully understood from the
following description and claims when taken in connection with the annexed drawings,
in which:
Fig. 1, is a perspective view of our improved sewing machine.
Fig. 2, is a vertical longitudinal section of the same with parts, in elevation.
Fig. 3, is a detail longitudinal section on an enlarged scale of the work supporting
arni.
Fig. 4, is a detail section taken in the plane indicated by the line, &, of Fig. 3.
Fig's 5 and 6, are detail views of the shuttle removed from the race, and:
Fig's 7 and 8, are views of a hat with the binding applied in accordance with our
invention.
If the said drawings, similar letters designate corresponding parts in all of the
views, referring to which:
A, indicates the base of the machine, and B, indicates the overhanging arm having
the head C, at its forward end, in which are arranged the needle bar D, the presser
bar E, having the foot a, at its lower end and the feed bar F. The said needle bar,
presser bar, and feed bar may be similar in construction to those embodied in sewing
machines at present in use, and the bars 1) and F, may be operated by the drive
shaft G, through the medium of mechanism contained in the head C; the needle
bar D, being reciprocated vertically while the feed bar F, is given respectively an up
and down movement and a forward and backward horizontal movement in relation to
the work plate in order to feed the materials forwardly as will be hereinafter more
fully described.

page_text: Extending forwardly from the forward end of the base A, is the work supporting
arm H, of our improved machine. This arm H, has the rear portion of its underside
concaved as indicated by I, to accomodate the crown of a stiff hat to which the binding
is being connected, and this concavity may be afforded by recessing the underside of
the arm or by bending the arm into a concavo-convex form as illustrated; the latter
manner being preferable for obvious reasons. At its forward end which rests beneath
the needle, feed, and presser bars, as shown, the arm H, is made straight, flat, and
comparatively thin for reasons which will presently appear, and it is provided adjacent
to its forward end with the vertically disposed needle receiving aperture b, and prefer-
ably has the portion c, in which said aperture is formed raised as illustrated so that its
upper side will rest flush with the plate ), upon which the guage K, presently
described, is mounted.
L, indicates the horizontal race for the loop taking device M, which may if desired,
be an oscillatory shuttle of the well known construction illustrated. This race L,
which communicates with the needle opening bas better shown in Fig. 3, is normally
covered by the plate J; and the shuttle M, which it contains is oscillated by the same
shaft G, that operates the needle bar and feed bar through the medium of the cam f.
the lever g. the reciprocatory rack h, the gear wheel, and the pinion j, or any other
suitable intermediate mechanism; the pinion j, (when employed) being removably,
splined to the shuttle as shown so as to permit of the latter being readily removed
when the plate J, is swung to one side on its pivot e, to open the race L.
The corners of the upper side of the arm I, at the forward end of the same are
rounded or beveled as indicated by p, so that no sharp angles which would tend to
injure a hat brim are presented to the same as it is fed beneath the needle..
N, indicates the binding guide of the machine which is preferably formed of sheet
metal, although other material may be employed if found desirable. This guide N,
is shown as formed in one piece and attached to the side of the arm H, and it has its
free portion, bent so as to rest in a vertical plane parallel to and close against the.
for-ward end of the said arm and also has the retaining loops, which rests upon the
upper side of the arm H, close to one end of the portion c, thereof, and the retaining
loop t, which rests slightly below the arm as shown.
K, indicates the guage against which the edge of the hat brim is pressed by the
operator, in order to have all the stitches take through the brim and binding at a
uniform distance from the edge of the former so as to make a neat and finished job
This guage K, may be formed and-may-be-formed and may be adjusted and adjustably
fixed in any suitable manner, but we prefer to form it of sheet metal and provide it
with the upturned lip, at its forward end and with the longitudinal slot w, and
adjustably connect it with the plate J, by a binding screw, as by this construction
it may be readily adjusted and adjustably fixed so as to permit of taking the stitches
through the brim at various distances from the edge of the brim.
We
In the practicaloperation of our improved machine, after the guage K, has been
properly adjusted, the binding 1, is placed in the guide N, so that its upper portion
will overlap the forward thin and flat end of the work supporting arm as illustrated
by dotted lines in Fig. 1. The brim 2, of the hat 3, is then placed upon the end of the
arm over the binding and its edge is pressed against the guage K, by the operator when
the machine is started and the stitching of the binding to the brim is commenced' and
continued until the binding is connected throughout its length to the brim.
prefer in practice to start the stitching at the back of the hat and stitch entirely around
the hat to the point of commencement. While the stitching of the binding to the
front or back end portions of the hat brimis going on, the hat rests and is held with the
crown depending but as the stitching progresses toward and along the side of the brim,
the hat must be gradually turned until the crown restsina horizontal or approximately
horizontal position with the inside of the hat toward the operator and the crown in
the concavity above mentioned, and as the stitching further progresses, the hat must be
turned so that when it reaches the end of the brim opposite to the point of
commencment, it will rest in the position first mentioned, riz: with its crown depending.
From this point, the operation is repeated to the point of commencment, that is to

page_text: say the hat is slowly turned until when the stitching reaches the middle of the side
of the hat brim, its crown rests in an approximately horizontal position beneath the
arm Hand from this point to the point of commentment the hat is slowly turned
until when it reaches the point of commenement its crown will rest in a depending
position. The concavity of the arm H, permits of the hat being turned freely into
the horizontal position stated, and it is absolutely necessary to get the hat into such
position in order to sew the binding to the sides of the brim in a finished manner
especially when the brim is provided with the fashionable deep rolls or curls, it will
be appreciated that the concavity of the said arm H, forms an important feature of
our invention.
After the piece of binding has been attached along one edge and throughout its
length to the inner side of the stiff hat brim by stitches 4, (see Fig. 8) its ends are
snapped or sewed together as indicated by 5, after which it is turned outwardly
er snapped over the curled brim, when it will be snugly and tightly held thereon.
This is due to the fact that the outer side of the brim is larger than the inner side
and consequently when the ends of the binding are snapped of connected
together after one edge of said binding is connected to the brim, and before it is
turned over the same, the free edge of the binding is strained and sprung over the
brim under considerable tension, varying according to the thickness of the felt.
This, as stated, renders the binding tight upon the brim, but in order to avoid any
possibility of the binding coming off during use, its outer edge may if desired be
stitched by hand to the brim or otherwise suitably secured.
In virtue of the binding being connected to the brim and turned over the edge of
the same in the manner described, it will be seen that said binding will snugly fit the
brim and hold itself in position thereon without the employment of stitches or other
fastening means; and it will also be seen that said binding will cover the counecting
stitches, thus preventing the same from being rottened, faded or otherwise deteriorated,
which is an important advantage.
It is obvious when a piece of binding is to be attached to a hat brim. the distance
of the line of stitches from the edge of the brim may be varied to suit various kinds of
hats by suitably adjusting and adjustably fixing the guage K.
During the operation of stitching the binding to the bat brim, the feed bar F, by
its up and down and forward and backward horizontal movements serves to feed the
hat and consequently the binding forwardly and at the same time holds the hat brim
to the needle plate while it is being fed.
+
It will be observed that our machine is very simple, and that its construction is such
that the parts are not likely to get out of order, and it will also be observed that the
stitching of the binding to the brim may be accomplished as easily when the brim is
deeply curled or rolled, as when it is but slightly curled or rolled, and this without in
any way damaging the brim or changing or destroying its shape.
The shuttle M, cooperates with the needle in the usnal manner, and it is disposed
horizontally as described so as to permit of the arm H, being made thin in order to
enable it to readily take between the brim and crown of the hat as illustrated in Fig. 3.
The shuttle M, alone formsno part of our invention and any suitable loop taking device
may be employed in lieu of the same.
The needle bar, feed bar, and presser bar with the mechanism for transmitting
motion to the same, when considered alone also do not form a part of the invention
and any suitable mechanism which embodies a practical fred device may be employed
in lieu of the same.
While our improved machine is designed more especially for connecting the edge
of bindings to the inner sides of stiff, rolled, or curled hat brims, it may be used to
advantage for so connecting bindings to soft hat brims.
Having now particularly ascertained and described the nature of our said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what
we claim is:
1-A The herein described method of attaching to a hat having a stiff, curled or

page_text: rolled brim, and a binding having its inner edge connected to the inner side of the
brim by stitches extending through the same and being turned over the edge of the
brim so as to cover said edge and also cover and protect the connecting stitches;
the said binding having its ends "-Eneppeder connected together subsequent to its
connection to the brim and prior to its being turned over the edge of the same,
substantially as specified...
2 A sewing machine comprising a work supporting arm having the comparatively
thin and flat portion at its forward end adapted to take between the brim and crown
of a stiff hat and the concavity 1, in its underside in rear of said thin and flat portion
adapted to receive the crown of a hat; the said concavity I, extending above the
lower side of the forward flat and thin portion and being disposed at right angles to
the length of the arm, a loop taking device arranged in said arm adjacent to its
forward end, a hat guage arranged upon and adjustably connected to the upper side
of the work supporting arm adjacent to the forward end thereof, the binding guide
arranged upon the forward end of the work supporting arm and having the lower
loop t, adapted to receive the lower edge of the binding and support the same and the
upper horizontally disposed loops, arranged upon the upper side of the work.
supporting arm, an overhanging arm carrying a needle bar and a feeding device, and
means for operating the needle bar, feeding device and loop taker, substantially as
specified.
A sewing machine comprising a work supporting arm having the corners of its
upper side beveled at its forward end as indicated by p, a hat guage arranged upon
and adjustably connected to the upper side of the work supporting arm adjacent to
the forward end thereof, the binding guide arranged upon the forward end of the
work supporting arm and having the lower loop t, adapted to receive the lower edge
of the binding and support the same and the upper horizontally disposed loop s,
arranged upon the upper side of the work supporting arm, a feeding device, and a
suitable organized stitch forming mechanism; substantially as specified.
4-A hat sewing machine comprising the work supporting arm H, having the
comparitively thin and flat portion at its forward end adapted to take between the
brim and crown of a stiff hat, and the concavity I, in its under side in rear of said
thin and flat portion adapted to receive the crown of a hat; the said concavity I,
extending above the lower side of the forward flat and thin portion and being disposed
at right angles to the length of the arm, a hat guage carried by the arm H, a binding
guide carried by said arm and a suitable organized stitch forming mechanism, sub-
stantially as specified.
Dated this 16th day of June 1897.
WHEATLEY & MACKENZIE
40 Chancery Lane London W.C. Agents.