A Combined Cutting Out and Stitching or Tacking Machine.
Year: 1895

page_text: PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
A Combined Cutting Out and Stitching or Tacking Machine.
I, MENRAD VON LAABA, of XIII/2 Bahnhof, Vienna, in the Empire of Austria,
Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to a combined cutting out and stitching or tacking machine,
which has for its object to simultaneously cut out, perforate and stitch articles of
clothing and the like.
The process hitherto in vogue was as follows:-
The material and the lining were laid separately on the pattern, attached thereto '
by pins and then cut or clipped. Three operations were then necessary, namely
the material had to be perforated round the edges where it was to be stitched and
cut out to the pattern along a line about 1cm. from the perforations, and then stitched '
or tacked by loose stitches to the lining along the line of perforations, the pattern
being finally removed and the material left ready for further treatment. This'
triple operation occupied a certain amount of time which it is the object of my :
invention to reduce.
According to my invention the material, the lining and the pattern are attached
together by means of pins and then operated on by my machine which stitches 'the'
pattern, material and lining together and at the same time cuts out the material to
the pattern.
In carrying out my invention I provide the frame of the machine with a handle
and with a work plate adapted to receive the work to be cut out and stitched, the
said work plate having a slot to allow of the passage of the scissors or shears,
the lower blade of which is rigidly attached to one side of the said slot.
The bandle is adapted to be grasped by the four fingers of the hand whilst the
thumb is placed on the end of a lever pivoted to the frame of the machine, which
lever is held in its upper position by a spiral spring.
When the spring lever is depressed by the thumb a link, which is pivoted to the
same, is also depressed and in its turn forces down a second lever pivoted to the
frame of the machine. The other end of this second lever engages in a slot or
notch in a slide in the frame of the machine and causes the said slide to move
downwards. For the purpose of getting over the dead point the pivot connecting
the link to the first lever is allowed play in the link, the second lever being allowed
corresponding play in the slot or notch in the slide.
The up- and down-motion of the slide performs the three operations required of
the machine, viz., the movement of the scissors or shears, the reciprocating move-
ment of the needle and the to-and-fro movement of the shuttle for the formation
of the stitches. The upper movable blade of the shears has an inclined cutting
edge and is provided with a shoulder or rib adapted to work in an inclined slot or
groove in the slide and attached at its end, by means of a bolt, to a guide which
moves in an inclined slot in the frame of the machine. The downward movement
of the slide causes the said, upper blade to move downwards and through the slot
in the workplate thereby cutting through the stuff placed between it and the fixed
lower blade of the shears.
The slide is provided at its lower end with a slot in which a pin engages the said
pin being attached to two discs which are caused to rotate by the up and down'
Mazoniout of the clide

page_text: When the spring lever is relieved from pressure it is drawn upwards by the spiral
spring and carries the movable upper blade with it.
The frame of the machine. is provided with a lateral plate having a slot or
groove adapted to receive a needle bar which is reciprocated up and down therein.
The needle is attached to the needle bar in the manner usual with sewing machine
needles which have their eyes near the point, the needle being supplied with thread
from a reel the said thread passing over a guide roller mounted in a lug on the
frame of the machine. The needle bar is provided with a pin which engages in a
slot in the end of a lever pivotted to the frame of the machine and attached to a
guide block by means of a link, the said guide block being movable in a groove or
slot in the frame of the machine and being rigidly connected with the slide. If
now the slide be set in motion by the pressure of the thumb on the spring lever
the guide block, link, lever and needle bar are caused to move downwards whereby
the needle penetrates the material and the stitch is formed by the to-and-fro move-
ment of the shuttle, as hereinafter described, which works similarly to the shuttle
of a Singer sewing machine.
The up-and-down motion of the needle bar serves also for effecting the perforation
of the material. For this purpose the needle bar is provided at its lower end with
a projecting rib which carries a series of needles adapted to perforate the material
when the needle bar moves downwards. In order to ensure that the perforation
of the material and the penetration of the needle take place with certainty, the
machine is provided with an up-and-down reciprocating plate which is adapted at
every stitch to compress the stuff between it and the work plate, thereby preventing
any movement of the material during the formation of the stitch.
The movement of the shuttle which is of ordinary construction and is carried in
a shuttle carrier is effected as follows. To one (hereinafter referred to as the
first) of the hereinbefore mentioned discs, which are connected together by means
of a pin, is rigidly fastened a third disc provided with a second pin arranged to
make an angle at the centre of the disc of about 120° with the pin connecting the
first and second discs. This second pin works in a vertical slot in the end of a rod
attached to the shuttle carrier which slides in a suitable slot or guide on the under-
side of the work plate and is reciprocated by the rotation of the third disc.
A fourth disc is coupled to the second disc, the said fourth disc being provided
with two pins which make an angle of 180° with one another and one of which is
arranged opposite the pin connecting the first and second discs.
A forked lever is provided in a position in which it is adapted to engage with
the second and fourth discs, the said lever engaging with one of the pins on the
fourth disc by means of its fork-shaped end and being pressed downwards by a
spring attached to the work plate, which spring must be about half as strong as
the spiral spring connected to the spring lever. This arrangement has for object
to enable the various parts to pass the dead point.
Dated this 17th day of June 1805
I, MENRAD VON LAABA, of XIII/2 Bahnhof, Vienna, in the Empire of Austria,
Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement :-
This invention relates to a combined cutting out and stitching or tacking machine,

page_text: Figure 11 is a view to an enlarged scale of the shuttle carrier:
Figure 12 is a view of the shuttle carrier with the shuttle in position:
Figure 13 shews a front elevation, side elevation and plan of the perforating
device.
a is the frame of the machine provided with a handle band with a work plate c
adapted to receive the work to be cut out and stitched, the said work plate c having
a slot d to allow of the passage of the scissors or shears.
The handle is adapted to be grasped by the four fingers of the hand whilst the
thumb is placed on the handle of a lever g pivoted to the frame a of the machine
at g and held normally in its upper position by the spiral spring h.
When the spring lever g is depressed by the thumb the link i, which is pivoted
to the same, is also depressed and in its turn forces down the lever j pivoted to the
frame a of the machine at j. The other end of this leverjengages in a slot or
notch in a slide which is thereby caused to move downwards in the frame a of
the machine. For the purpose of getting over the dead point, the pin u° connecting
the link to the lever g is allowed play in the slot do in the link, the lever j being
allowed corresponding play in the slot or notch k" as shewn in Figures 1 and 4.
The up-and-down motion of the slide performs the three operations required
of the machine, viz., the movement of the scissors or shears, the reciprocating
movement of the needle and the to-and-fro movement of the shuttle for the
formation of the stitches.
The scissors or shears are formed of an upper movable blade m and a lower
blade e rigidly attached to one side of the slot d in the work plate c.
The upper
movable blade m has an inclined cutting edge and is provided with a shoulder or
rib m¹ adapted to work in an inclined slot or groove in the slide and attached at
its end, by means of a bolt m", to a guide which moves in an inclined slot a¹ in the
frame a of the machine. The downward movement of the slide 1 causes the upper
blade m to move downwards and through the slot d thereby cutting through the
stuff placed between the said blade m and the fixed blade e.
When the lever g is relieved from pressure it is drawn upwards by the spiral
spring and carries the upper blade m with it..
The frame a is provided with a lateral plate o having a slot, or groove preferably
of dovetail shape in cross section and adapted to receive a needle bar p which
moves up and down therein. The needle n is attached to the needle bar in, the
写

page_text: manner usual with sewing machine needles which have their eyes near the point,
the needle being supplied with thread from a reel mounted on a support 1, the
said thread passing over a guide roller p². The needle bar P is provided with a
pin which engages in a slot in the end of a lever r pivoted at to the frame a and
.attached to a slide s by means of a link s, the said slide s' being movable in a
groove or slot in the frame a and being rigidly connected to the slide l. If now
the slide be set in motion by the pressure of the thumb on the lever g, the
slide s'; .link s, lever ŕ and needle bar p are caused to move downwards whereby
the needle n penetrates the material and the stitch is formed by the to-and-fro
movement of the shuttle as hereinafter described, the said shuttle working similarly
to the shuttle of a Singer sewing machine.
2
The up-and-down motion of the needle bar serves also for effecting the
perforation of the material. The projecting rib B slides freely up and down in a
dovetail groove in the back of the lateral plate o and is provided at its lower end
with a square head po having a hole or slot through which the needle n can pass
(Figure 13). To the said head I connect a bent spring u which is provided at its
two ends and in the middle with lugs 1, 2, 3 and with pointed pins or needles I,
II, III.
If now a pattern composed of strong paper, together with the material
and lining, is pressed with its edge against the spring so that the lugs on the spring
are pushed between the pattern and the material and lining which are attached to
one another, the elasticity of the spring causes the pins or needles I, II, III to
assume, or conform to, the contour of the pattern. If, now, the material be cut or
stitched the descending needle-bar p presses on the head po whereby the points of
the pins I, II, III are pressed into the material along the edge of the pattern and
effect the desired perforation. These three stitches, which are separated preferably
by about one centimetre from one another, suffice for guiding the stitching when
the material and lining are finally sewn together.
The movement of the shuttle, which is shewn in Figure 12 and is carried in the
carrier T, is effected as follows:-The slide is provided at its lower end with a
slot in which a pin engages, the said pin being fixed to two discs t' and t¹ which
are caused to rotate by the up-and-down movement of the slide 1. To the disc t¹
is rigidly fastened the disc t provided with a pin z¹ arranged to make an angle at
the centre of the dise of about 120° with the pin 2.
2
As above mentioned the pin slides in a slot in the slide l. If the said slide is
caused to move downwards by the hereinbefore described arrangement of levers
the pin is carried with it, when the dead point is passed, thereby causing the
discs t, t¹, t¹¹, t' (Figure 2) to rotate. The pin z¹ on the disc t works in a vertical
slot so as to convert the circular into reciprocating motion. A rod x is attached to
the vertical slot and supported by the guides v and y. The shuttle carrier is
connected to the said rod x and slides in the angle piece w thereby imparting a
to-and-fro motion to the shuttle. Figures 5 to 10 shew diagrammatically the
positions of the needle and shuttle during the formation of a stitch. Kand k repre-
sent the paths of the pins ¹ and z respectively.
A disc is coupled to the disc t¹, the said disc t¹ being provided with two
pins u and u¹ which make an angle of 180° with one another and of which the
first u is arranged opposite the pin z.
A pivoted lever is provided in a position in which it is adapted to engage
with the part of the frame supporting the two dises t¹¹ and 11, that is to say, it is
arranged so that its free end (shewn claw shaped in Figure 1) engages with the
pin u and is pressed downwards by a suitable spring a (in Figure 1 a flat spring is
shewn and in Figure 4 a spiral spring) which must be about half as strong as the
spiral spring h. This arrangement has for object to overcome the dead point.
When the pin is exactly in the path of the slide it would be impossible. for
the latter to move further downwards unless the pin be slightly rotated. This
slight rotation is effected by the pressure of the spring a° on the lever ul as shewn
in Figures 1 and 4.
2
'In the position of rest the pin uº of the lever g (Figure 4) is at the top of the

page_text: slot do in the link i and the pin k¹ of the lever j also lies at the top of the slot k¹¹ in
the slide 1. If now the lever g be depressed by means of the thumb of the operator
the pin uº descends freely in the slot do thus releasing the lever g, link i and slide!
from the action of the spring h. The spring a then acts to overcome the dead
point of the pin z by its push or pull on the lever u" which, when the blade m and
slide l, are in their highest position acts on the pin u and when the blade and slide
are in their lowest position on the pin u¹.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
:-
1. A combined cutting out and stitching or tacking machine, for articles of
clothing or the like, having a slide adapted to be reciprocated up-and-down by
hand by means of levers and to cause the needle and the perforating device to
penetrate the material by means of an arrangement of levers and links, the said
slide being also designed to reciprocate a knife blade which works in an inclined
groove in the slide substantially as described.
2. A machine of the kind described in the preceding claiming clause wherein a
pin z works in a slot in the slide and rotates a series of discs t, t, t", tl when the
slide is caused to move downwards, thereby imparting to a rod a carrying the
shuttle carrier T a reciprocating motion through the medium of a pin z¹, the dead
point of the said pin ¹ being passed by means of a spring lever u" which presses
against the pin u opposite the pin z and on the pin u¹ on the disc substantially
as described.
3. The improved machine for cutting out and stitching or tacking articles of
clothing or the like hereinbefore described and illustrated in the accompanying
drawings.
Deted the 2nd of 1900'
G. F. REDFERN & Co.,
4, South Street, Finsbury, London, Agents for the Applicant.