IMPROVEMENTS, IN. BUTTONS, AND IN DEVICES FOR SECURING THE SAME TO . FABRICS
Year: 1865

page_text: .
LETTERS PATENT, to George Davies, of No. 1, Serle, Street, Lincoln's
Inn, in, the County, of, Middlesex, and. No., 28, St. Enoch Square, in the
City, of Glasgow, Civil, Engineer and Patent, Agent, for the Invention of
"IMPROVEMENTS, IN. BUTTONS, AND IN DEVICES FOR SECURING THE SAME TO
. FABRICS." A communication from abroad by Willoughby Hahn Reed, of
Philadelphia, United States of America.
Sealed the 3rd October 1865, and dated the 8th April 1865.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said George Davies at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 8th
April 1865.
.I, GEORGE DAVIES, of No. 1, Serle Street, Lincoln's Inn, in the County of
Middlesex, and No. 28, St., Enoch Square, in the City of Glasgow, Civil
Engineer and Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature of the said Inven-
tion for "IMPROVEMENTS IN BUTTONS, AND IN DEVICES FOR SECURING THE SAME TO
FABRICS," (a communication to me from abroad by Willoughby Hahn Reed,
of Philadelphia, United States of America,) to be as follows:-
The first part of this Invention consists of a metal button constructed for
secure attacliment to fabrics, and articles of wearing apparel in the manner
described hereafter.
The second part of this Invention consists in the use, for fastening buttons
to fabrics, of a rivet (formed as hereafter described), so that the head made by

page_text: striking the rivet with a punch may be uniform, substantial, and concentric
with the button, and form a neat central ornament for the same.
The third part of this Invention consists in the use of a sharp pointed pin
(formed as described hereafter) for the purpose of readily inserting the shanks
of the buttons or the stems of the rivets for fastening the same into fabrics
without cutting the threads of the latter.
In carrying out the first part of this Invention a metal button is constructed
with a tubular shank; a washer is placed thereon, and the shank is inserted
through the fabric; a second washer is then placed on the shank, and the
latter is then expanded, turned over, or rivetted, so as to hold the button
securely.
In carrying out the second part of the Invention a metallic button is made
with a central hole, round which is an annular ridge or projection. The rivet
is made with a head of any convenient form, and the end of the shank is
countersunk, so as to leave a central rounded projection or boss, surrounded
by an annular and angular projecting rim. The shank of the rivet having
been passed through the fabric from the back, and the perforated button being
placed over it, a punch with a suitably recessed face is placed on the counter-
sunk end of the shank, the head of the rivet is placed on an anvil or other
suitable foundation, and the punch being struck by a hammer will expand or
turn the angular rim of the rivet over the annular ridge of the button, and
thus secure the same at the same time that it forms a neat central ornament
for the button.
The third part of the Invention is designed for facilitating the introduction
of the hollow metallic shanks or the rivets through the fabric without cutting
or breaking the threads of the same. In the former case a sharp pointed
conical steel pin is used, which is about the same diameter as the exterior of
the hollow shank at its largest part or base, and is provided with a cylindrical
projection (below the base) which fits in the interior of the hollow shank.
The button being placed (face downwards) on a table or other convenient
place, and the washer adjusted, as before described, the cylindrical part of the
pin is inserted into the hollow shank, the fabric is then pressed down over
the point of the pin, and passed on to the hollow shank, the effect of which
will be that the threads are expanded by the conical point of the pin, and the
shank is passed through them without their being cut or broken. The pin is
then removed, and the second washer being placed over the shank, the latter
is expanded or rivetted as above described. For the purpose of passing the
stem of a solid rivet through the fabric, the pin is made with its base larger in
diameter than the stem of the rivet, the cylindrical projection is dispensed

page_text: with, and instead thereof a cylindrical recess is formed in the base of the pin
sufficiently large to pass over the shank of the rivet; this pin is used in the
same manner as that above described.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said George Davies in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
7th October 1865.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, GEORGE
DAVIES, of No. 1, Serle Street, Lincoln's Inn, in the County of Middlesex,
and No. 28, St. Enoch Square, in the City of Glasgow, Civil Engineer and
Patent Agent, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Eighth day of April, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and sixty-five, in the twenty-eighth year of Her reign,
did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the said
George Davies, Her special licence that I, the said George Davies, my
executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said George
Davies, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during
the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise,
and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the
Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
BUTTONS, AND IN DEVICES FOR SECURING THE SAME TO FABRICS," being a com-
munication to me from abroad, by Willoughby Hahn Reed, of Philadelphia,
United States of America, upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said
George Davies, my executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing
under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe
and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same
was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent
Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the
said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said George Davies, do hereby declare
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the follow-
ing statement in writing, and on reference to the accompanying Sheet of
Drawings, that is to say:-
The first part of this Invention consists of a metal button constructed for

page_text: secure attachment to fabrics and articles of wearing apparel in the manner
described hereafter.
The second part of this Invention consists in the use, for fastening buttons
to fabrics, of a rivet formed as described hereafter, so that the head made by
striking the end of the rivet with a punch, as described hereafter, may be
uniform, substantial, concentric with the button, and form a neat central
ornament for the same.
The third part of this Invention consists in the use of a sharp pointed pin,
formed as described hereafter, for the purpose of readily inserting the shanks
of the buttons, or the stems of the rivets for fastening the same, into fabrics,
without cutting the threads of the latter.
Such being the nature and object of the said Invention for "Improvements
in Buttons, and in Devices for Securing the same to Fabrics," I will now
proceed to describe more in detail the manner in which the same is to be or
may be performed or carried into practical effect; and in order that the same
may be distinctly understood I have annexed hereunto a Sheet of Drawings
illustrative thereof, and have marked the same with figures and letters of
reference corresponding with those in the following explanation thereof, that
is to say:
Figure 1 represents a sectional view of the improved button, and the manner
of attaching the same to fabrics; Figures 2 and 3, modifications of Figure 1;
Figure 4, a sectional view showing the button as secured to the fabric by a
rivet of peculiar construction; Figure 5, a sectional view of the button shown
in Figure 4; Figure 6, a section of the rivet; Figure 7, a plan view of
Figure 4; Figures 8 and 9, sectional views, showing a modification of
Figure 4; and Figures 10 and 11, sectional views (drawn to an enlarged
scale) of devices or instruments for inserting the shanks of buttons, or the
rivets for fastening the same into fabrics, etc.
On reference to Figures 1, 2, and 3, which illustrate the first part of the
Invention, A represents the head of the button, which consists of the two
plates a and b; B is the tubular shank of the button; C, the fabric; and D
and D two washers, one being situated on one side, and the other on the
opposite side of the said fabric. The plate bis recessed at the centre, so as
to form on the outside the projection e. The shank, which prior to its attach-
ment to the plate 6 consists of a simple small tube, is passed through a hole
in the projection e of the plate b, and the end of the tube is then bent down
into the recess, as shown in the Drawing; after this, any hard material is
placed within the concavity of the plate b, and the cover plate a is secured by
bending its edge over that of the other. To secure the button to the fabric,

page_text: the latter is perforated by any suitable instrument, the washer D is placed
upon the tubular shank, and the latter is then introduced through the opening
in the fabric, so that its end shall project beyond the inner side of the same.
The washer D¹ is now placed over the projecting end of the tubular shank B,
and by any suitable instrument the end of the tube is bent down on, or in
other words, rivetted to the said washer, the button being thus firmly secured
to the fabric. It will be observed that the washer D has a projection, which
meets the projection a on the plate b, thus a smooth metal surface is presented
for the edges of button holes to bear against, and the rapid wearing away of
the stitches on the edges of the button holes is obviated. Although the plan
described above of constructing the button is preferable, the tubular shank
may form a part of the head, as seen in Figure 3; the washer D may also
consist of a flat disc, the projection a being made more prominent in order
that the button may not be too close to the fabric; in many instances, how-
ever, the use of the washer D may be dispensed with.
On reference to Figures 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, and 9, which illustrate the second
part of the Invention, A is the button, which in the present instance has on
the edge of the upper or outer surface the rounded rib g within the inner and
smaller rib h, and within the latter an annular ridge i, which is on the edge of
the central hole ;, the latter passing entirely through the button. The ridge i
may be but formed by punching the hole j from the back or under side of the
button in the direction of the arrow Figure 5. E is a rivet, on which is an
appropriate head k, and the other end is countersunk or recessed, so as to
form the annular and angular projection m surrounding the central rounded
projection n. The stem of the rivet having been passed through the fabric
and through the opening of the button, a punch or die D is placed with its
countersunk end on the countersunk end of the stem 7 of the rivet (the head k
of the latter resting on a suitable foundation or anvil), and with a hammer
one or more smart blows are struck on the punch, which turns down the
annular flange m of the rivet over the annular ridge i of the button, thereby
locking the flange to the said ridge, and securing the latter firmly to the fabric,
as seen in Figure 4, the end of the rivet having, through the action of the
die, received the form of the countersink of the said die, affords a neat
central ornament for the button. The central rounded projection n in the
countersunk end of the rivet may be dispensed with, and a simple concavity a
may be made in, the end of the stem 7, as seen in Figure 8, in which case a
die D, formed at the end in the manner seen in Figure 9, should be used, the
central point y of the die occupying a position in the centre of the concavity,
so that on the die being struck the end of the stem 7 of the rivet will be

page_text: expanded laterally by the point y, while the other portion of the die will turn
the edge m of the concavity over the ridge i of the button, which is thus
firmly secured to the fabric; the ridge i may in some instances be dispensed
with, although I prefer the use of the ridge, as it tends to add security to the
fastening.
In attaching buttons to fabrics by means of an ordinary rivet with a plain
ended stem, the head formed by the dies is apt to be imperfect, and more or
less one-sided, thereby detracting from the security of the fastening and
presenting an awkward and uneven appearance. By countersinking the end
of the rivet, the head formed by the action of the die and the consequent
turning down of the annular projection m is certain to be in all cases concentric
with the button, and consequently form a neat central ornament for the
same.
The third part of the Invention is illustrated by Figures 10 and 11.
In carrying out the first and second parts of the Invention it is of the greatest
importance that the shanks of the buttons in one iustance, and the stems of
the rivets in the other, should be passed through the fabric without breaking
or cutting the threads; in order to accomplish this end the instruments
illustrated in Figures 10 and 11 are made use of. In Figure 10, H is a sharp
pointed steel pin, from the larger end of which projects a stem o, the latter
being so much smaller than the base that a shoulder x is formed. When the
tubular stem of the button A, shown in Figures 1 and 3, has to be inserted into
a fabric the stem o of the pin H is inserted into the interior of the tube B,
the shoulder of the instrument resting on the end of the tube; the fabric
is then placed on the point of the instrument and pushed down the same and
over the tubular shank to the washer D, previously placed on the same.
When the rivet E, shown in Figures 4, 6, and 8, has to be passed through a
fabric, the instrument illustrated in Figure 11 is used; this consists of a sharp
pointed steel pin H'; the pin H¹ has no stem, however, but a hole p, which is
made large enough to admit the stem 7 of the rivet. In using this instrument
the rivet E is in the first instance placed (head n downwards) on. a suitable
block or table; the pin is then placed over the shank or stem 1 of the rivet, as
seen in Figure 10. The operator then takes the fabric m and applies it to
the point of the pin H¹, and presses it down to the head n of the rivet, pressing
lightly with his fingers on the fabric, and thereby retaining the head of the
rivet in contact. with the table, the operator raises or pulls the pin H' from
the shank of the rivet, round which the fabric at once closes. The rivet has
now been inserted into the fabric, and is ready to receive the button A,
Figure 4, which has to be secured in the manner already described. It will

page_text: be readily seen that the action of the pin in penetrating the fabric is to separate
the threads, no cutting or breaking of which can take place, as would be the
case if a punch were used to make a hole large enough to admit the stem or
rivet. Instead of using the instrument in the manner described above, the
fabric may be placed against a board or plate, the pin H being forced through
the fabric and through a hole in the plate by pressure applied to the head m
of the rivet E, the shank of which is contained within the recess p of the pin.
It is not necessary that the hole in the pin should be deep enough to admit
the entire shank of the rivet; if it be deep enough to admit a portion only of
the shank the desired end may be obtained.
Having now described the nature and object of the said Invention for
"Improvements in Buttons, and in Devices for Securing the same to Fabrics,"
together with the manner in which the same is to be or may be performed or
carried into practical effect, I would remark in conclusion, that I claim as
the Invention (communicated to me by the above-named Willoughby Hahn
Reed, of Philadelphia, United States of America),-
Firstly, the button composed of the head A and tubular shank B in com-
bination with the washer D', the whole being constructed for attachment to
fabrics, substantially as herein set forth.
Secondly, the button with its central opening j and annular ridge i on the
edge of the latter, for the purpose specified.
Thirdly, the use for fastening buttons to fabrics of a rivet having a stem
countersunk at the end, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
Fourthly, the rivet with its countersunk stem in combination with the
annular ridge i of the button.
Fifthly, the use substantially in the manner described of the sharp pointed
pin H, with a stem o at the base for inserting tubular shanks of buttons into
fabrics, as set forth.
Sixthly, the use substantially as described of the sharp-pointed pin at H³,
with a hole or recess in the base for the purpose of inserting the stems of
rivets into fabrics, as set forth.
In witness whereof, I, the said George Davies, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Seventh day of October, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-five.
GEORGE DAVIES. (L.S.)