IMPROVEMENTS IN MANUFACTURING ARTICLES OF JEWELLERY, DRESS ORNAMENTS, DRESS FASTENINGS, SMOKE SHADES FOR LAMPS AND GAS BURNERS, AND THE HANDLES OF CUPS AND OTHER VESSELS OF CERAMIC MATERIALS.”
Year: 1872

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Henry Goss, of Stoke-upon-Trent, in the
County of Stafford, Manufacturer, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS
IN MANUFACTURING ARTICLES OF JEWELLERY, DRESS ORNAMENTS, DRESS
FASTENINGS, SMOKE SHADES FOR LAMPS AND GAS BURNERS, AND THE HANDLES
OF CUPS AND OTHER VESSELS OF CERAMIC MATERIALS.”
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Henry Goss at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
23rd October 1872.
I, WILLIAM HENRY Goss, of Stoke-upon-Trent, in the County of
Stafford, Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of the said Inven-
tion for "IMPROVEMENTS IN MANUFACTURING ARTICLES OF JEWELLERY, DRESS
ORNAMENTS, DRESS FASTENINGS, SMOKE SHADES FOR LAMPS AND GAS Burners, and
THE HANDLES OF CUPS AND OTHER VESSELS OF CERAMIC MATERIALS," to be as
follows:-

page_text: manufacturing articles of jewellery, dress fastenings, dress ornaments,
smoke shades for lamps and gas burners, and the handles of cups and
other vessels of ceramic materials.
Instead of moulding or fashioning the ceramic material by the use of
moulds of the kind commonly employed, I employ dies or matrices of
steel or other hard metal or alloy. The said dies or matrices are used in
a press, one of the said dies being fixed on the bed of the said press, and
the other carried by the bolt or plunger of the press. The said dies or
matrices are made by the ordinary process of die sinking, and the press
may either be a direct acting or a screw press.
The ceramic material may either be used in a dry state or in a plastic
state. When the ceramic material is used in a dry state I prefer to
employ the screw press, as a press of that kind is more powerful than a
direct acting press. When the ceramic material is used in a plastic
state the direct acting press may be employed.
After the articles have been fashioned by metallic dies and pressure,
as described, they are finished by the ordinary processes.
The articles to which my Invention is applicable are principally
brooches, carrings, the heads of scarf pins, hair pins, and shawl pins, the
trinkets called charms, bracelets, necklaces, stud and ring fittings; and
parts of the said articles having the shape requisite for mounting in
metal. My improvements are also applicable to the manufacture of
smoke shades for lamps and gas burners, and the handles of cups, vases,
and other vessels mado of ceramic materials.
The materials which I employ in carrying my Invention into effect
are the materials or mixtures of materials called porcelain, china, pariau,
jasper, stone china, and earthenware.
By my Invention the ornamental design of the articles is more
accurately rendered than by the ordinary method of manufacture, and
ornaments or designs too delicate to be satisfactorily manufactured by:
the ordinary method of manufacture may be manufactured by the use
of my Invention.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said William Henry Goss in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 21st April 1873.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, WILLIAM
HENRY Goss, of Stoke-upon-Trent, in the County of Stafford, Manu-
facturer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Twenty-third day of October, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-two, in the
thirty-sixth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and suc-
cessors, give and grant unto me, the said William Henry Goss, Her
special license that I, the said William Henry Goss, my executors,
administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said William Henry
Goss, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time
agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter
during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make,
use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain
and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for
"IMPROVEMENTS IN MANUFACTURING ARTICLES OF JEWELLERY, DRESS ORNAMENTS,
DRESS FASTENINGS, SMOKE SHADES POR LAMPS AND GAS BURNERS, AND THE
HANDLES OF CUPS AND OTHER VESSELS OF CERAMIC MATERIALS," upon the
condition (amongst others) that I, the said William Henry Goss, my
executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my,
or their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and
ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same
was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal
Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately after
the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said William Henry Goss, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same
is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement thereof, that is to say :-
My Invention consists of the improvements herein-after described, in
manufacturing articles of jewellery, dress fastenings, dress ornaments,
smoke shades for lamps and gas burners, and the handles of cups and
other vessels of ceramic materials.

page_text: Instead of moulding or fashioning the ceramic material by the use of
moulds of the kind commonly employed, I employ dies or matrices of
steel, or other hard metal or alloy. The said dies or matrices are used
in a press, one of the said dies being fixed on the bed of the said press,
and the other carried by the bolt or plunger of the press. The said dies
or matrices are made by the ordinary process of die sinking, and the
press may either be a direct acting or a screw press.
The ceramic material may either be used in a dry state, or in a plastic
state. When the ceramic material is used in a dry state I prefer to employ
the screw press, as a press of that kind is more powerful than a direct
acting press. When the ceramic material is used in a plastic state, the
direct acting press may be employed. Instead of fixing the bottom die
on the bed of a press by means of the three adjusting screws commonly
employed, I prefer to make a dovetail on the under side of the said
bottom die, and I make in the bed of the press a corresponding recess, in
which the said dovetail engages by a sliding motion. The die when
secured by means of the said dovetail on the bed of the press requires no
adjustment, a fixing screw only being employed to fix it in its place.
When the articles arc of such a figure that after the lifting of the
upper die they cannot readily be removed by hand from the lower die,
or cannot be removed by hand without risk of injury, I employ a lifter
for the purpose of raising them from the lower die. This lifter consists
of a vertical rod lifting a part of the bottom dic, and moved by means of
a lever operated by the foot of the workman.
Instead of effecting the compression of the ceramic material between
the dies by means of a press, to the plunger or screw of which the top
die is affixed, the dies may be unconnected with the press, and the press
employed to effect the compression and moulding of the material by
placing the dics containing the ceramic material on the bed of the press,
and bringing down the plunger or screw of the press upon the top dic,
or the compression may be effected by the blow of a hammer on the top
die after the dies have been filled with the ceramio material.
After the article has been impressed or moulded its edges are trimmed
or "fettled" by hand, and when necessary the embossments are under-
cut or under-carved by the workman or artist.
Hand modelled subjects may be added to the impressed or moulded
article, and two or more impressed or moulded portions may be connected

page_text: -
together. The junction of the parts referred to may be effected by
the use of water or the mixture of clay and water called "slip," or the
parts may be united in or after the process of enamelling, as herein-after
described. After the articles have been dried they are burned in the
usual way. They are afterwards enamelled, gilded, or platinized, and
again burned. Sometimes they are glazed and fired before decoration.
One operation of burning, after the decorative process, is generally
sufficient, excepting where hard enamels such as are gilded upon or
similarly treated are employed.
The articles of jewellery made according to my Invention may be
finished by miniature painting, either on the biscuit or the glazed
surfaces of the articles.
In manufacturing articles of jewellery according to my Invention of
the kind called porcelain ivory, I proceed as follows:-To obtain the
appearance of ivory I use a porcelain body such as china, parian, jaspar,
or any such semi-transparent body. When fired into the biscuit state I
glaze the article and fire again as usual. I then pencil the objects over
uniformly with a thin wash of flux, tinted with oxides of iron and
zinc, or of iron and antimony, or of iron and uranium, or other oxides,
or materials which when ground with an enamel flux will produce after
firing in the enamel kiln the tint of ivory. Having obtained this ground
tint of ivory, either before or after firing the article in the enamel kiln, I
print from a stippled copper plate on to tissue paper, an imitation of the
faint grain of ivory, and transfer the print from the paper to the article
in the usual manner of pottery printing. I then fire in the enamel kiln,
and the tint and graining are rendered permanent. Or instead of
washing the surface of the glazed article with the tint of ivory I some-
times tint the body itself by adding to the clay or grinding with it a
small portion of the metallic oxides before mentioned, or I use clays
naturally so tinted, and after firing and glazing the articles I print the
graining on the surface as already described.
Another kind of jewellery which I manufacture by my Invention is
that in which initials or monograms are produced by rows of pearls,
precious stones, or imitations of stones. I manufacture the said articles
by forming by pressure a series of indentations arranged in the form of
the letter or monogram in which indentations the pearls or stones are
secured by mastic, copal, or other cement. This fitting in of the pearls
or stones follows the processes herein-before described.

page_text: Figure 1 of the Drawing represents an initial letter on the face of a
brooch made in this way. The small circles represent indentations filled
with pearls or stones, the remainder of the design being made up of
pencilled gold or enamel.
By the processes described of stamping and finishing I produce
embossments, or mounts or parts of jewellery, or like articles, in ceramic
materials to be used in combination with other materials, such for
example as vulcanite, glass, wood, ivory, and metals.
When the article to be made in parts requires to be finished with an
enamelled ground such as turquoise, crimson or vermilion, I do not join
the parts by "slip" but keep them separate until the last process of
firing the enamel colour or ground is about to take place, then while the
enamel colour of the ground is yet wet with its vehicle I place upon it
the embossment or alto relievo, using between the two surfaces a little
more of the same enamel colour, with the addition when desirable of a
little gum to assist the temporary adhesion of the parts before firing; I
then fire them in the enamel kiln, each piece being placed in a horizontal
position therein. The flux of the enamel when fused becomes itself a
cement holding the two parts firmly together. In this way the enamel
colour or ground is more evenly disposed over the surface beneath and
between the embossment and alto relievo than if the two parts had been
attached in the clay state, and the enamel colour afterwards pencilled
around the edges and between the parts. In some cases I attach the
parts by a cement of shellac or mastic, or other adhesive matter.
In making small handles or other small articles I employ dies
impressed with several of the said articles, to the extent of six or more,
so that by one operation of the press and dies several of the articles may
be simultaneously produced. Or the dies instead of being impressed
with several impressions of the same design may be impressed with
different designs for the same article, or with designs for different
articles.
The articles to which my Invention is applicable aro principally
brooches, earrings, the hends of scarf pins, hair pins, and shawl pins;
the trinkets called charms, crosses, bracelets, necklaces, stud and ring
fittings, and parts of the said articles having the shape requisite for
moulding in metal,

page_text: My improvements are also applicable to the manufacture of smoke
shades for lamps and gas burners, and the handles of cups, vases, and
other vessels made of ceramic materials.
In making smoke shades and other articles of a hollow or cup-like
figure I employ the machinery or apparatus represented in vertical
section in Figure 2, in which figure a represents the lower die in which
the smoke shade is made. The required quantity of damp ceramic
material in powder is placed in the die a and by means of the wood or
metal form b, to which a backward and forward rotatory motion is given
by the handle c, c, the material is worked into the rough shape of the
shade or dome to be pressed. The form 6 having been removed, the
upper die is brought down and the figure of the shade or dome com-
pleted by pressure between the upper and lower dies. The form is
fluted as represented for the purpose of causing it the more readily to
raise the powder into the required shape. The form b is represented in
the Drawing slightly lifted from the powder d.
In all cases I prevent the articles formed from sticking to the dies by.
frequently oiling the surfaces of the said dies.
The materials which I employ in carrying my Invention into effect are
the materials or mixtures of materials called porcclain, china, parian,
jasper, stone, china, terra cotta, and earthenware. The said materials or
mixtures of materials are such as are ordinarily employed in the manu-
facture of ceramic wares. When however the article to be made is from
its figure possessed of little strength and liable to be broken on re-
moving it from the dies, or prior to burning, I add to the mixture of
materials a small quantity of adhesive matter such as gum, dextrine, or
glue. These materials are dissolved in water and the mixture of ceramic
materials moistened with the solution. The material may either be used
in its plastic state or allowed to get nearly dry before it is moulded. The
addition of the small quantity of adhesive matter gives great strength to
the moulded articles.
By my Invention the ornamental design of the articles is more
accurately rendered than by the ordinary method of manufacture, and
ornaments or designs too delicate to be satisfactorily reproduced by the
ordinary method of manufacture may be manufactured by the use of my
Invention.

page_text: Having now described the nature of my Invention, and the
manner in which the same is to be performed, I wish it to be understood
that I do not limit myself to the precise details herein described, as tho
same may be varied without departing from the nature of my Invention,
but I claim as my Invention the improvements herein-before described
in manufacturing articles of jewellery, dress ornaments, dress fastenings,
smoke shades for lamps, and gas burners, and the handles of cups and
other vessels of ceramic materials, that is to say, making the said articles
from ceramic materials either in a dry or plastic state by fashioning
them by means of dies and presses, the apparatus being constructed and
used, and the process of manufacture conducted substantially in the
manner herein-before descriced.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Henry Goss, have here-
unto set my hand and seal, this Seventeenth day of April, in
the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-
than
Witness,
W. VINKHAM,
Stoke-on-Trent.
WILLIAM HENRY.GOSS (L.S.)