IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING, AND IN MACHINERY THEREFOR
Year: 1878

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Herbert John Haddan, of the Firm of Herbert and
Company, Solicitors of Patents, of 67, Strand, in the City of Westminster,
Civil Engineer, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING, AND IN
MACHINERY THEREFOR." A communication from abroad by Hans Peter
Henriksen, of Boulevard du Temple, Paris, in the Republic of France.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Herbert John Haddan at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 2nd August 1878.
HERBERT JOHN HADDAN, of the Firm of Herbert and Company, Solicitors of
Patents, of 67, Strand, in the City of Westminster, Civil Engineer. "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN SEWING, AND IN MACHINERY THEREFOR." A communication from abroad
by Hans Peter Henriksen, of Boulevard du Temple, Paris, in the Republic of
France.
The improvements relate more particularly to the sewing or stitching of gloves,
but may be employed for other articles, and consist in making a flat square stitch
on one side, preferably the outer, and a crossed and interlaced stitch on the other,
whereby an elastic joint is formed when two or more pieces of material are placed
side by side and so treated.
The improvements in machinery consist in imparting a to-and fro motion, by a
rack and pinion actuating a toothed wheel, to a shuttle thrower, whereby four
movements in the shuttle are effected, viz., two forward and two backward.
Also, in a double thread strainer.
Also, in combining the double shuttle and thread strainer movements with the
simple movement of the needle and the travelling bed of the shuttle.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said Herbert John Haddan in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 1st
February 1879.
HERBERT JOHN HADDAN, of the Firm of Herbert and Company, Solicitors of
Patents, of 67, Strand, in the City of Westminster, Civil Engineer. "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN SEWING, AND IN MACHINERY THEREFOR.". A communication from abroad
by Hans Peter Henriksen, of Boulevard du Temple, Paris, in the Republic of
France.
The improvements relate more particularly to the sewing or stitching of gloves,
but may be employed for other articles, and consist in making a flat square stitch
on one side, preferably the outer, and a crossed and interlaced stitch on the other,
whereby an elastic joint is formed when two or more pieces of material are placed
side by side and so treated.
The improvements in machinery consist in imparting a to-and-fro motion, by a
rack and pinion actuating a toothed wheel, to a shuttle thrower, whereby four
movements in the shuttle are effected, viz., two forward and two backward.
Also, in a double thread strainer.
Also, in combining the double shuttle and thread strainer movements with the
simple movement of the needle and the travelling bed of the shuttle.
The Drawing hereunto annexed, where like parts are represented by like figures,
will show how the Invention can be practically performed.
Upon the base plate A is placed the box or frame B, which contains the whole
mechanism. Both are of cast iron. The motive power acts on the machine through
the main shaft C. The discs I., II., III., IV., V., all shaped differently, are placed
eccentrically on this shaft. The eccentric I. is set into the fork D, touching both
branches of it. The fork D is attached to the needle holder E, which can slide in
two bearings of the frame B. The eccentric II. supports the roller f. of the arm F,
which is fixed by one of its ends on the front part of the machine by means of the
pin G, on which it moves while the other end carries the rack. F¹. The eccentric III.
touching a projection of the oscillating arm O, which turns on the pin P. The
upper end of O touches the projection k of the piece K. The axle J is suspended
between the two bends of K. This axle is provided near the back part of the frame
with a broad toothed wheel H gearing into the aforesaid rack F¹. In front of the
piece K, and outside the frame, the bed of the shuttle L is fixed. The bottom of L
is pierced by the axle J, which carries the shuttle beater N, placed in such a manner
that its inner face passes through the centre of the circular shuttle bed L. In the
other half of L the shuttle M is lodged, having at one extremity a curved point,
and carrying in a hollow space the small round bobin m and a small tension disc.
At the point where the shuttle touches the centre of L it has a small eyelet hole,
through which the thread of the bobin passes. The cover Y¹ serves to cover the
shuttle bed during the work. On the piece K there is a semicircular projection k²,
placed opposite a similar projection on the frame B. The eccentric IV. presses against
the curved arm Y, having its fulcrum at y. The vertical arm' of Y carries the
ratchet x, which can be moved to engage in one of the toothed wheels S, S'. These
wheels are fixed on the vertical axle T, which carries on its upper end the roller P.
The axle T moves in the piece U. The eccentric V touches the thread stretcher c,
which is moveable round a pin in the back part of the frame B. The roller P2,
with the pin z, can turn in the curved bell-crank lever W, which is made in two
parts, united at the front part of base plate A by means of screws. "These two
pieces together are moveable round two fixed pins o lodged in two holes of the
piece A. The horizontal arm of the bell-crank lever W rests with its flattened
extremity on the iron button a¹, the continuation of which in the shape of a rod
passes through the table a³, and descends down to the foot, where it is connected
with a treadle. A spring, which is suspended between the horizontal arm of the

page_text: bell-crank lever and the upper part of the base plate A, presses the two rollers P¹
and P against each other. The roller På is kept in its place on W by the curved
piece p, which is fixed by means of screws. The frame B is closed at the top by
the cover b, which carries a spindle for the bobin g, as well as the two tension
discs i, i, and a very fine and elastic spiral spring h.
•
The thread is brought into the machine in the following manner :-The needle
thread is wound upon the bobin g, and passes between the two tension discs i, i,
from there to the spring h, descends, and is then seized by a small hook; ascends
again, passes the thread stretcher c, descends again, passes round another small hook
and enters into the needle, passing through its eyelet hole. The shuttle thread, on
the other hand, is taken up by the circular bobin m; from here it passes through
the small tension disc into the interior of the shuttle, leaves the latter through the
eyelet hole, and finally passes through the opening of L.
The motion of the machine is as follows, all motions being derived from the main
shaft C and its five eccentrics:-The eccentric I., placed between the branches of
the fork D, imparts motion to the needle holder E. A completo revolution of I
causes therefore a forward and a backward motion of the needle holder. These
motions take place in the plane formed by the edges of the rollers P¹ and P³, and in
the direction of a line which goes through the centres of these rollers.
The eccen-
tric II. is pressed by a spiral spring against a roller ƒ¹ turning on a pin, which is
fixed on the arm F. During a complete revolution of II., the roller f¹, which is
forced to follow the whole circumference of II. imparts to the arm F two up-and-
down motions, viz., during a revolution of II. the arm F descends, ascends, falls
again, and re-ascends. The rack F¹, gearing into the toothed wheel H of the axle J,
causes therefore the latter to turn four times alternately in one sense and in the
other. It is now evident that a revolution of the shaft C produces a forward motion
and also a backward motion of the needle holder E, while at the same time the
axle J, with the shuttle beater N fixed to it, doubles its rotative motion. The
eccentric III. transmits its motion upon the oscillating beam O, the upper end of
which touches the projection k on the piece K. In this manner a complete revolution
of III. causes K to slide once forward and once backward, carrying with it the
shuttle bed L which is attached to it. If the motion of K be in one plane, the
shuttle bed would strike against the projecting edges of the rollers, and to avoid
this evil, the small half-round projection 2 on K is applied, which in passing a
counter projection of similar shape on the frame B, lifts K, lets L pass over the
edges of the two rollers, and finally allows it to descend to the level of the needle.
It will therefore be observed that a revolution of the shaft C causes, 1st, a single
reciprocating motion of the needle; 2nd, a single similar and simultaneous motion
of K, of J, and of the shuttle bed; 3rd, the axle J turns twice in each direction,
which pushes the shuttle twice forward and twice backward. The eccentric IV.
acts upon the lever Y, which is constantly pressed against the former by means of a
spiral spring. The motions of the lever Y conduct the ratchet x, so as to take a tooth
of the toothed wheel S or S¹ for every complete revolution of the shaft C. These
wheels S or S¹ being fixed on the axle T, turn the roller P2, and consequently trans-
port the material to be sewn (which is pressed between the aforesaid roller and the
opposite moveable roller P') for a distance corresponding to the size of a tooth and
of S or S¹. The size of the stitches can therefore be altered by removing the
ratchet from one of these wheels to the other. Of course several wheels be
applied, and in this way the machine adapted for making stitches of several sizes.
Eccentric V. is, by means of a spiral spring, pressed against a rounded projection of
the thread stretcher c, and consequently forces the latter to make an irregular up-
and-down motion in turning on the pin d. This motion is repeated twice during
revolution of the shaft C. The shape of the eccentric, and therefore the motions of
the stretcher, are adjusted according to the stroke of the shuttle, and calculated to
stretch the thread of the needle after every course of the shuttle. By pressing with
the foot on a treadle placed underneath the table, a rod is lifted, which ends in the
button a'. This lifts the horizontal arm of the bell-crank lever W, and in this way
may

page_text: separates the roller P¹ from the roller P2 in order to make the sewing material free
for handling. The opposite motion is produced by a spring e, which again presses
the two rollers against each other.
In considering all the simultaneous motions and their effect, it will be seen that
the first of the two motions of the shuttle takes place before the needle has reached
the material. Therefore the shuttle passes first with its thread under the needle
thread, but only when the latter is stretched (by c), and it effects afterwards its
returning motion above it. The needle passes then through the material in the
same moment that the shuttle is passing above, so that the second passage of the
shuttle through the loop, which is formed by the thread and the needle, takes place
on the opposite side of the material. These combined motions produce cross
CLAIMS.
The machinery for sewing and the improved stitches made thereby, all substantially
as illustrated and set forth, and working in the manner described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Herbert John Haddan, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Thirty-first day of January, A.D. 1879.
TT T TADTANT
-