Improvements in Patterns for the Cutting Out of Dresses and other Garments.
Year: 1895

page_text: Date of Application, 21st June, 1895
Complete Specification Left, 21st Apr., 1896-Accepted, 23rd May, 1896
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Patterns for the Cutting Out of Dresses and other
Garments.
We, WILLIAM GAUNT, JANE ANN GAUNT, and JOHN GAUNT, all of
Bentham House, Bentham, in the County of York, Dress Cutters, do hereby
declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
:-
This invention relates to certain improvements in patterns for the cutting out of
dresses and under garments by means of a graduated diagram which enables the
possessor of such to cut out any size from that of a child to a full grown person.
The diagram is so graduated and arranged that on taking the measurements of
the figure and tracing the indicated corresponding lines on the diagram on to the
material paper or lining the fit is assured when the garment is made up; thus
avoiding the necessity of a chart in the draughting of the patterns as hitherto.
The graduated diagrams for a lady's dress are arranged one for the bodice,
another for the back and side quarters of the garment and another for the sleeve.
In each of these are points where lines intersect the intersecting points are
numbered for convenience with figures. These figures correspond to the measure-
ments of persons to be fitted with garments. All the graduated diagrams are the
same in principle, and for example we will explain the diagram graduated for
the bodice, and taking the point of intersection 12 inches on the neck as the
measurement and 36 inches for the "bust," and 15 inches for the back, the material
is cut along the lines on the diagram connecting these points together, then for
obtaining the number of "darts" required for insertion in the garment for ensuring
a perfect fit to the front portion of the figure, taking the waist measurement at
22 inches and bust as before 36 inches, where these lines intersect on the diagram,
the number on the intersecting line gives the number and size of "darts.”
The back portion of the bodice is obtained by a graduated diagram marked and
divided on the same lines as for the front, and the sleeves are lined from a graduated
diagram cut in the form of a sleeve, and marked with figures representing inches
as before. The intersecting points on the graduated diagram corresponding to the
measurement of the shoulder, elbow, and wrist, denote the lines on which the
fabric is to be cut, which when cut through the points of intersection ensure a
perfect fit.
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JOHN WAUGH,..
Agent.
Improvements in Patterns for the Cutting Out of Dresses and other
Garments.
We, WILLIAM GAUNT, JANE ANN GAUNT, and JOHN GAUNT, all of Fern
Bank, Winton, Patricroft, in the County of Lancaster, formerly of Bentham
House, Bentham, in the County of York, Dress Cutters, do hereby declare the
nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :—
This invention relates to patterns for the cutting out of dresses and other

page_text: garments and is designed to provide a pattern from which on taking the proper
measurements of the figure a garment of any size ranging between a maximum
width and minimum length or vice versa may be cut without drafting and without
the use of a chart or other device.
It consists essentially of a pattern upon lining material paper calico or other
suitable material for a garment or part of a garment printed or woven with a
graduated diagram or scale comprising a number of intersecting lines giving a
range of different width and length measurements so that the lines marking out
any combination of the measurements or sizes indicated can be selected from which
to cut out the garment.
It will be fully described with reference to the accompanying drawings in which
as an example the patterns for a lady's dress bodice are illustrated.
The filed drawings are full size.
Fig. 1. Graduated patterns of front of dress bodice.
Fig. 14. Diagram or scale for indicating darts to be selected according to bust
and waist measurement.
Fig. 1B. Graduated pattern of darts.
Fig. 1. Graduated pattern of single dart (where only one dart is required) and
scale for indicating dart to be selected according to bust and waist measurement.
Fig. 2. Graduated pattern of side quarter fitting next to front.
Fig. 3. Graduated pattern of side quarter fitting next to back.
Fig. 4. Graduated pattern of back."
Fig. 5. Graduated pattern of top or upper side of sleeve.
Fig. 6. Graduated pattern of under side of sleeve.
Each pattern is marked with a number of longitudinal and transverse or other
lines placed at the proper distances apart for different lengths widths or other
dimensions. These lines cross or intersect one another at various points any set of
which (that is to say one of the lines laid down for either dimension or measurement
in each direction taken in conjunction or in combination) will produce a pattern in
proper proportion corresponding with the measurements taken of the person to be
fitted from which the garment can be cut.
The lines upon the pattern are all marked at convenient places with numerals
corresponding to their respective measurements and the operator can then without
drafting trace with a tracing wheel or mark with a stiletto over the lines
corresponding to the measurement taken of the figure.
The lines upon the several patterns indicate either where the pattern is to be cut
or where the parts of the bodice have to be sewn together suitable turnings being
allowed in each instance at the seams as is well understood to anyone with ja
knowledge of cutting out and dress making.
At
In Fig. 1 is illustrated a graduated pattern for the front of a dress bodice from
which by selecting the lines marked upon it any desired size of bodice may be cut.
At the upper front corner of the pattern from A to A. are marked a number of
curved lines which indicate the neck and form a graduated scale of neck measure
sizes ranging and numbered from 8 to 16 inches. At the top these lines meet and
intersect a number of corresponding lines which indicate the shoulder seams.
the back top corner of the pattern are a number of curved lines which indicate the
armhole and form a graduated scale from B to B corresponding with the bust
measure sizes numbered from 28 to 50 inches. These lines all cross or intersect
the shoulder lines which run from the neck lines and at the point of intersection
give the length from the neck to the point of the shoulder so that the pattern can
be cut from the neck along either of the shoulder lines to any of the lines for the
arm hole. At the back of the pattern are a number of vertical or approximately
vertical lines which indicate the first under arm seam which correspond with and
connect to the respective lines of the arm hole scale and extend down to the bottom
of the pattern. These lines constitute a graduated scale of bust measure sizes
numbered at B to B from 28 to 50 inches according to the measure taken round
the bust and give the width of these parts of the garment from the centre of the

page_text: front to the first under arm seams at the bust waist and hips. On each of these
under arm seam lines is marked at E a scale of back length sizes from 11 to
17 inches corresponding to the measurement of the length of the back from the
prominent bone at the back of the neck to the waist thereby giving the length of
the garment from under the arm to the waist. At each of the points indicated by
the figures of the back length measurements is an inclined line which indicates the
shape of pattern from waist over the hips. On the front line of the pattern at G is
a scale of front length sizes numbered from 14 to 21 inches corresponding with a
measurement taken of the length of the front from the prominent bone at back of
neck to the waist giving the length of the garment from the neck to the waist.
At each of the figures of the front length scale is an inclined line which indicates
the shape of pattern from the waist over the body. We have not drawn the inter-
secting lines across from the front length measurements to the back length
measurements but either front measurement may be joined by a line to either back
measurement to indicate the waist and the patterns may be cut out along that line or
along a line joining the extremity of the inclined hip and body line.
Referring to Fig. 14 it is necessary to form the waist of a garment by taking up
one or more pleats known as darts and Fig. 1A represents a graduated scale with
the graduated dart patterns connected thereto by which the correct size and position
of the dart can be determined corresponding to the bust and waist. measurements.
This graduated scale comprises two sets of diagonal lines running at right angles to
and intersecting one another at a number of points. These lines are numbered at
one end from B to B with bust measurements from 18 to 50 inches and at the other
end from K to K with waist measurements from 18 to 45 inches. A third set of
lines are drawn through the intersections of the diagonal bust and waist
measurement lines and projected to indicate which darts from the dart pattern are
to be selected according to the respective bust and waist measurements. The dart
pattern of the second dart or breast pleat comprises 8 darts numbered from 1 to 8
marked as to position and size as the most suitable for the different combinations
of bust and waist measurements. The indicator lines are also numbered from 1 to 8
and may extend to the extremities of the darts or the scale may be placed in any
convenient position. For example if the bust measurement be 42 inches and the
waist measurement be 26 inches the two diagonal lines corresponding thereto
intersect upon the line No. 7 which indicates that No. 7 dart is to be selected again
if the bust measurement be 36 inches and the waist measurement be 22 inches the
diagonal lines intersect upon line No. 5 which indicates that No. 5 dart is to be
selected.
Fig. 1B represents the graduated pattern of the front or first dart drafted
as to position and size as the most suitable for the different combinations of bust
and waist measurements. This first dart pattern is numbered from 1 to 8 to
correspond with indicator lines cf the dart scale and the second dart pattern.
Fig. 1 represents the graduated pattern for front of bodice and graduated dart
pattern and scale when only one dart is required. The lines of the pattern
correspond with the lines described with reference to Figs. 1, 1A and 1B.
Fig. 1 represents the graduated pattern for front of bodice and graduated dart
patterns and scale when two darts of equal size are required. The lines of the
pattern correspond with the lines described with reference to Figs. 1, 1A, 1B,
and 1°.
In Fig. 2 is represented a graduated pattern for the side quarter which fits next
to the back of the front Fig. 1. At one side is a line for the first under arm seam
corresponding to the under arm seam of Fig. 1. At the top is a graduated scale
of lines from B to B marked with bust measurements from 28 to 50 which
correspond with the arm hole lines of Fig. 1. At the other side are a number of
vertical or approximately vertical lines indicating the second under arm seam and
forming a graduated scale of waist measurements from K to K marked with
waist measurements from 18 to 45 inches giving the width of this part of the
garment at the bust waist and hips. At the bottom of this pattern are a uumber

page_text: of transverse lines which extend from the first under arm seam and cross or inter-
sect the second under arm seams. These transverse lines are marked from E to E
with back measurement lengths from 14 to 17 inches corresponding to the back
measurements on Fig. 1 which conjointly with the scale at B give the respective
lengths of this part of the garment from under the arms to the waist.
points of intersection of these transverse lines with the first and second under arm
seam lines are inclined lines corresponding with the inclined lines on Fig. 1 to give
the width over the hips.
At the
In Fig. 3 is illustrated the graduated pattern of the side quarter fitting next to
the back. At the top from B to B is a scale of bust measure sizes marked from
28 to 50 inches corresponding with the scale B on the other patterns. From the
points of measurement of this top scale at B are a number of curved lines
extending to the front with which join or intersect a number of lines corresponding
to the second under arm seam of Fig. 2. These lines form a waist measure scale
and are marked from K to K with a number of waist measurements from
18 to 45 inches which give the width of this part of the garment at the waist.
Extending backwards from the scale at B are a number of curved lines which
meet or intersect at the bottom of the pattern a number of transverse lines from
E to E marked with back length measurements from 11 to 17 corresponding to the
back measurements on Figs. 1 and 2 and at the points of intersection.
At these
points of intersection and at the points of intersection of the transverse lines with
the under arm seam lines are inclined lines both back and front to give the shape
of the pattern for the hips. The transverse lines and the scale at B give the
respective lengths of this part of the garment from the arm hole to the waist.
In Fig. 4 is illustrated the graduated pattern for the back which fits next to
the back side quarter Fig. 3. At the upper back corner of the pattern from A to A
are marked a number of curved lines which indicate the back part of the neck
and form a graduated scale of neck measurements from 8 to 16 inches corresponding
to the scale at A Fig. 1. These curved lines all meet or intersect at Fat the top
of the centre back seam line. Extending towards the front from the scale at A are
a number of shoulder lines corresponding to the shoulder lines of Fig. 1 which
intersect a number of curved arın hole lines marked from B to B with graduated
bust measurements from 25 to 50 inches giving the width of this part of the garment
from the back seam line or centre line of the back and the amount to be cut or
hollowed out for the arm hole. At the bottom of this pattern are a number of
transverse lines from E to E marked with back length measurements from 11 to
17 inches which extend from the back seam line and are met or intersected by a
number of curved lines at the front extending downwards from the arm hole lines.
These transverse lines give the length of this part of the garment from the
arm hole and neck at F to the waist. At the points of these lines are
inclined lines corresponding with those ou Figs. 1 2 and 3 which give the shape for
the hips.
In Fig. 5 is illustrated the graduated pattern for the upper part of the sleeve.
At the top of the pattern from R to R are a number of curved lines which indicate
the top seam of the sleeve and form a graduated scale of sleeve measurements from
8 to 16 inches corresponding to the measurements taken from the elbow bone to
the point of the shoulder and give the respective length of the upper part of the
sleeve from the point C. At one side of the pattern is a line indicating the outside
seam of the sleeve and at the other side a number of lines for the inside seam which
extends from the wrist and intersect the top sleeve lines. The inside seam lines
are marked from D to D with a graduated scale marked from 8 to 16 inches
corresponding with the neck measurements which give the proper width of the
sleeve from seam to seam. At the wrist end of the sleeve are a number of
transverse lines which mect or intersect the longitudinal seam lines of the sleeve
and marked from S to S with wrist length sizes from 5 to 11 inches measured from
the elbow bone to the wrist bone giving the length of the sleeve from the elbow to
the wrist.

page_text: In Fig. 6 is illustrated the graduated pattern for the under part of the sleeve.
At the top of this pattern from R to R are a number of curved lines which
indicate the under seam of the sleeve with the arm hole and form a graduated
scale of sleeve measurements from 8 to 16 inches measured from the elbow bone to
the point of the shoulder giving the length of the under part of the sleeve from the
point C. At one side of the pattern is a line indicating the outside seam of the
sleeve and at the other side a number of lines for the inside seam. The inside
seam lines are marked from D to D with a graduated scale from 8 to 16 inches
corresponding with the scale D on the upper part of the sleeve and give the proper
width of the sleeve in proportion to the size of neck measurements from seam to
seam. At the wrist end are a number of transverse lines which meet or intersect
the longitudinal seam lines marked from S to S with wrist length sizes from 5 to
11 inches corresponding with the scale S on Fig. 5 which gives the length of the
sleeve from the elbow to the wrist.
In preparing these patterns, for convenience in use they may be prepared in two
or more sets giving limited ranges of sizes instead of all the sizes being printed on
one pattern as illustrated in the drawings.
It is to be understood that all these patterns form one side only of the garment
and have to be duplicated for the other side of the garment. Assuming that these
patterns are printed upon one half of the lining the other half is doubled under it
and the pattern is traced through by means of a tracing wheel or marked with a
stiletto or otherwise onto the other half of the lining.
We prefer to use a tracing instrument with spiked wheels employing two wheels
where a turning to be allowed one wheel to mark the cutting line and the other
the seam line on the material and where no turning is required employing only one.
wheel to mark the cutting line.
We will now describe how the pattern is to be marked out taking as an example
the following measurements for the garment.
Neck 12 inches
Bust 36 inches
Waist 22 inches
Back length 15 inches
Front length 18 inches
Shoulder to elbow 13 inches.
Elbow to wrist 8 inches.
In Fig. 1 with the single wheel trace over the line for the neck from a to a
then with the double wheel along the shoulder line from a¹ to b the point of
intersection with the arm hole line on the bust measurement scale. From the
point of intersection at b with single wheel trace along the arm hole line to the
point of intersection c with the under arm seam line. Continue with the double
wheel over the under arm line to the point of intersection d required for the back
length this line is there continued with the double wheel over the hip extension
line to e.
Next trace with the single wheel from a over the front hem line to the
point of intersection frequired for the front length this line is then continued over
the front hem extension line to g.
In Figs. 1B and 1° trace the darts from h to i with the single wheel according to
the number of the darts indicated on the scale Fig. 14 by the line e which
intersects the diagonal lines of the specified bust and waist measurements.
In Fig. 2 trace with the single wheel the arm hole line from 6 to the point of
intersection with the second under arm seam line at c. From the point of
intersection c trace with the double wheel over the under arm seam line to the
point of intersection d required for the hack length and continue over the hip
extension line to e Next trace the opposite under arm seam line from 6 to d¹ the
point of intersection with the back lengths and continue over the inclined hip.
extension line to e'.

page_text: In Fig. 3 trace with the single wheel over the armhole line from a to b then
with the double wheel over the long curved line of the side quarter from the arm
hole line at a to the point of intersection d required for the back length and
continue over the hip extension line to e. Next trace with the double wheel from
the arm hole line at through the waist measure scale at K to the point of
intersection d' required for the back length and continue over the hip extension
line to e¹.
In Fig. 4 trace with the single wheel over the neck line from a to F then from a
on the neck line trace with the double wheel the shoulder line to the point of
intersection with the arm hole line.
From the point of intersection 6 trace with the single wheel over the arm hole
line to c then with the double wheel over the long curved line to the point of
intersection d required for the back length and continue over the inclined hip
extension line to e.
Next trace with the double wheel over the centre line of back from the neck
point F to the point of intersection d' required for the back length and continue
over the hip extension line to e¹.
In Fig. 5 trace with the single wheel over the top sleeve line from m to n
according to measure from the shoulder to the elbow and continue from n to r the
point of intersection with the inner seam line. Next with the double wheel trace
over the inner arm seam line from r to s the point of intersection with the wrist
line then with the single wheel trace the wrist line from s to s¹ and again with the
double wheel over the outer arm seam line from s¹ to m.
In Fig. 6 trace with the single wheel over the top of under sleeve line from m
to n and continue from n to the point of intersection with the inside seam line.
Next trace with the double wheel over the inner seam line from r to the point of
intersections with the wrist line according to the length of measurement from the
elbow to the wrist and then with the single wheel over the wrist line from s to its
point of intersections with the outside sleeve line. Finally with the double
wheel trace the outer seam line from s¹ to m.
It is to be understood that any combination of measurements may be taken at
any parts of the several patterns.
It is also to be understood that the invention is not limited to the precise shape
or contour of the patterns illustrated or to the precise scales or measurements
thereon as these may be varied as may be required or found desirable for garments
of different shape style or cut such as for jackets capes mantles sleeves skirts or
the like.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what
we claim is :-
1. A pattern for garments printed woven or otherwise depicted upon lining
material calico paper or other suitable material provided at each edge or seam
with a graduated diagram or scale comprising a nuinber of intersecting lines giving
a range of different width and length measurements so that the lines, representing
any combinations of the measurements or sizes indicated, can be selected from
which to cut out the garment without the necessity of drafting a pattern
substantially as described.
2. A graduated pattern for garments comprising a number of graduated scales
the lines of which cross or intersect one another giving any desired number of
length measurements and any desired number of width measurements so that a
garment may be cut therefrom of any desired size ranging between a maximum
length and minimum width or vice versa without the use of a chart or other device
substantially as described.
3. A graduated pattern for the front part of dress bodice comprising a number
of curved neck lines marked with a neck measurement scale at AA, a number of
corresponding shoulder lines a number of curved arm hole lines which intersect the

page_text: shoulder lines marked with a bust measurement scale at B B a number of vertical
under arm seam lines meeting or intersecting the arm hole lines marked with a
bust measurement scale at B and an intersecting scale marked with back length:
measurements at E E and a front hem line extending from the neck lines and
marked with an intersecting scale of front length measurements at G substantially
as described with reference to Fig. 1.
4. A scale for denoting the correct dart or darts required to fit the respective
sizes of bust and waist measurements comprising the graduated and numbered
intersecting lines marked respectively with bust measurements and waist measure-
ments which incline at an angle to and intersect one another upon third lines which
run through the point of intersection and which are projected or numbered to
correspond with the darts substantially as described and shown in Figs. 14 1B 1°
and 1.
5. A graduated pattern for one or two darts comprising a number of dart lines
radiating from one or more points and set in the most suitable position for
different combinations of measurements of bust and waist substantially as described
and shown with reference to Figs. 13, 1° and 1".
6. A graduated pattern for the front of dress bodice provided with intersecting
lines of different measurements and a single dart scale and pattern substantially as
described and shown in Fig. 1º.
7. A graduated pattern of side quarter of bodice fitting next the front comprising
at one side a single line for the first under arm seam at the top a number of arm
hole lines marked at B B with bust measurements at the other side a number of
lines for the second under arm seam which intersect the arm hole lines marked
at K K with waist measurements and at the bottom a number of transverse lines
which intersect the second under arm seam lines marked at E E with back length
measurements substantially as described and shown in Fig. 2.
8. A graduated pattern of the side quarter of bodice fitting next the back
comprising at the top a bust measurement scale B B, a number of curved arm hole
lines extending towards the front from the points of the scale at B B, a number of
second under arm seam lines marked at K K with a scale of waist measurements
extending down from the arm hole lines a number of curved lines extending
towards the back from the points of the scale at B B and a number of transverse
lines at the bottom which intersect the under arm seam lines and the back lines
marked at E E with back length measurements substantially as described and
shown in Fig. 3.
9. A graduated pattern for the back of dress bodice comprising at the top a
number of curved neck lines marked at A. A with neck measurements intersecting
at the point F of the back seam line, a back seam line extending from the neck
lines to the bottom of the pattern a number of shoulder lines extending from the
neck lines which they intersect, a number of curved arm hole lines which intersect
the shoulder lines marked at B B with bust measurements a number of curved lines
extending downwards from the arm hole lines and at the bottom a number of
transverse lines marked at E E with back length measurements which intersect the.
curved side lines and the back seam line substantially as described and shown
in Fig. 4.
10. A graduated pattern of upper part of sleeve comprising at the top a number
of curved top seam lines marked at R R with sleeve length measurements (from
elbow to shoulder) at one side an outside seam line at the other side a number of
inside seam lines marked at D D with neck measurements which extend up and
intersect the top sleeve lines and at wrist end of the sleeve a number of transverse
lines marked at S S with wrist length sizes which intersect the longitudinal sleeve
lines substantially as described and shown in Fig. 5.
11. A graduated pattern of under part of the sleeve comprising a number of
curved top seam lines marked at R R with sleeve length measurements, an outside
seam line, a number of inside seam lines marked at D D with neck measurements

page_text: which extend upwards and intersect the top seam lines, and a number of transverse
wrist lines marked at S S with wrist length sizes which intersect the longitudinal
seam lines substantially as described and shown in Fig. 6.
Dated this 20th day of April 1896.
WM. P. THOMPSON & Co.,
6, Bank Street, Manchester, Patent Agents.