IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY AND APPARATUS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF HATS, CAPS, AND BONNETS
Year: 1853

page_text: PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by Henry Charles Hill at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
28th May 1853.
(Void by reason of notice to proceed not having been given within the
time prescribed by the Act.)
I, HENRY CHARLES HILL, of Kingsland Road, London, Engineer, do
hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
MACHINERY AND APPARATUS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF HATS, CAPS, AND
BONNETS" to be as follows:-
My Invention consists in the construction and use of improved
machinery for the manufacture of perforated, ventilating, and other
hats, caps, and bonnets, and hat, cap. and bonnet bodies, and for
flocking and plushing, and covering with flocks or plush, or with
flocked or plush fabrics (the hat, cap, or bonnet body), in any color,
singly or mixed, or any elastic waterproof or non-elastic waterproof
adhesives or adhesive compositions on calico or any other textile fabric,
and for dressing and finishing off the same by the said machinery.
1. There is fixed on a frame a revolving roller or spindle upon which
i wound the calico or fabric to be used for the hat, cap, and bonnet

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bodies in any length or lengths and widths required. The calico ther
passing under a friction roller or between friction rollers let into the
frame work, which carries the cloth or fabric to the gripper machine
which is attached to the cylinder, revolving or stationary, and the
gripper revolving round the periphery of the cylinder or fixed and
revolving with the cylinder, which gripper lays hold of and carries it
round or under the cylinder and a revolving brush, or between two or
more cylinders, through a prepared solution or liquid gum lac or
varnish. The application of the gripper machine principle to the
cylinders, with the endless band or bands to further feed and carry
through its operations the calico or fabric for the hat, cap, or bonnet
bodies, is new in the manufacture of hats; the mode of applying
waterproof solution through an aperture made and formed through an
horizontal bar fluted, or a metallic pipe or gutter, which solution or
gum lac flows and passes through on to the fabric or cloth between a
cylinder and metallic plate or table, or between two or more cylinders
or rollers, heated or not, as required, for distributing equally and
spreading over the surface, either saturated or coated on the exterior
surface of the fabric with prepared solution, gum lac, or varnish, is
also new.
2nd. A metallic pan, trougl, or reservoir, being single or
double, is let into or placed in the frame work under the above-described
cylinder and rotary brush, or cylinders, rollers, &c., and holding the
ingredients in a state of solution, which pan or trough is heated or not,
as may be required, by means of steam pipes and chest fixed in
the frame work under the pan or trough, which is heated by steam
or hot air passing through the pipes into the chest, and is allowed to
escape at a certain pressure by a valve. 3rd. The fabric having now
passed through the solution, either saturated or coated, as required, it
is now carried by means of the endless bands and friction rollers up to
and round, over or under, and between the revolving or fixed hat or
cap and bonnet blocks and cylinder or cylinders and rollers, which hat,
cap, or bonnet blocks, and the cylinders or rollers, are shaped and
formed with the curve and taper, as required in the various shaped
hats, caps, or bonnets, and which are made in segments to take to
pieces, and so contrived that the blocks and cylinders or rollers can be

page_text: reduced or enlarged at pleasure, and to the different curves and shapes
required in the hats, caps, or bonnets, and to be heated or not, as
required, for the different solutions and gum lacs. The endless band
passing over or under and between the hat block and cylinder or
cylinders, or otherwise between the block and two metallic plates,
which are also shaped and made in segments to the curves required,
and the plates moving reverse to each other, or to and fro, on triangular
bars, when these plates are used, instead of the cylinders or rollers,
which are made portable so as to be shifted, and when required, the
bottom plate is kept stationary by a lever motion when required to be
used for covering and making the flock plush covering for the hats,
&c., &c.; which metallic plate is brought to a stand still under a frame
or bridge placed across the pan or trough, which frame or bridge is two
metallic bars or plates which slide to and fro with springs attached to
the back or outer edges and fixed on the frame work, and over the
moveable plates is a metallic wedge moved up and down in guides by
an eccentric motion or crank, and which wedge moving up or down
opens and shuts the bars or plates by springs pressing on the outer
edges; under this frame and wedge, and carried or passed over the
plates by friction rollers, is a fibrous material to be used for the plush or
flock when it is passed over the plates to produce the length of plush
required, which is arranged and set by a screw; it is severed or cut by
a moveable knife or knives, or other cutters, and after being cut to the
length required the wedge or plate travelling on the eccentric motion
carries and presses the fibrous material down in a perpendicular or
erect position through the bars or plates in and on to the solutioned
gum lac or varnished cloth or fabric in single or double fibres, that is
to say, the fibres are cut twice or double of the required length, and
which fibres are pressed doubled on the solutioned calico or fabric
through the metallic plates or bars, are which are gradually opened by
means of a small friction roller placed or let into the upper part of the
wedge, which relieves the wedge of the friction, and the roller moving
with the wedge downwards between two upright bars attached to the
horizontal plates, and which are gradually opened as the wedge de-
scends and thereby pressing the double end of the fibres into the solution,

page_text: gum lac, or varnish, on the calico or fabric under which is one of the
moveable plates on which is placed an elastic cloth, or a sheet of
vulcanized india-rubber, or felt, or blanketing, and the plate to be
heated or not, as required; after it has received the flock plush it is
allowed to set, and which is facilitated by a rotary fan cooling or con-
gealing the solutions or gum lacs or varnish, after which it is pressed
by passing between cylinders or rollers, or the metallic plate and a
cylinder or roller, when it is gently brushed by a rotary brush, and
passed under a dressing and between two or more cylinders, when it is
finished, and wound on to the roller or block; this mode of plushing
and flocking fabrics, hats, caps, wide-awakes, and bonnets, and on the
hat, cap, and bonnet bodies, I claim as new, and also the adaptation
of metallic plates, shaped and formed with the curve and taper required
in hats, caps, and bonnets, and which are made in segments to take to
pieces, the same as the cylinders, and rollers, and blocks, and which
can be reduced or enlarged at pleasure, and to the different curves and
shapes; the plates are intended to be worked horizontally or perpen-
dicular, and moving reverse to each other or up or down, which
motion is given by a double crank. The calico or fabric being carried
over these plates or the cylinders, and between the hat block and plates,
or the hat block and cylinders, and being shaped as required, presses
the calico or fabric on and into the shape of the block, either the
cylinders revolving, or the plates, when used instead, moving to and
fro, and the reverse to each other, which further assist the winding
operation of the fabric on the block, and gives an ironing process to the
calico, &c.; and which cylinder, cylinders, or rollers, and plates, are kept
down and up to a certain pressure to and against the block or blocks
by means of springs applied under the bearings of the spindle or shaft
of the blocks, cylinders, rollers, and plates, under or over, and also to
give the shapes and curves to hats, caps, bonnets, &c., &c. 4th. The
hat, cap, and bonnet blocks are made in segments, and are put together
with clams, or dovetailed, so as one segment slides in and on to the
other, and is held fast by the trought or dovetailed wood or iron let in
the block, and on the upper part of which, near the brim end, is a
metallic band or spring, which, by pressure or winding motion, allows

page_text: the rim or brim for the hat to pass over and on to the body, and which
block or blocks are made to slide or screw on to a spindle or shaft
after the manner of a chuck, and which spindle has an hinge joint
which allows the block to turn up from the horizontal to a perpen-
dicular position; and the spindle is made to revolve on the principle of
a common turning, either with one or both ends in use, in the form of
a double lathe head, with the spindle or shaft run right through, so
that either one or both ends with the blocks can be used or worked at
one time. This revolving hat or cap block, spindle, or lathe head, or
principle of a lathe, is to be used singly or attached to a turn table,
to which is fixed a series of these lathes with blocks on, and which turn
table is also revolving, and on the spindle or shaft of the lathes is
fixed a mitre, or bevil cog-wheel, which is set in motion by another
mitre or bevil cog-wheel attached to an upright shaft, which is also
turned and set in motion by another pair of mitre or bevil cog-wheels,
also attached to and fitted on an horizontal shaft, upon which is also a
fixed and shifting pulley, which is driven by a strap or band. This
motion given to the lathes or spindles with the blocks is quite inde-
pendent of the revolving turn-table, which revolving or rotatary motion
is given by the same description of mitre or bevil cog-wheel fixed on
the upright shaft of the turn table, and which is driven by another bevil
cog-wheel fixed upon an horizonal shaft, upon which is also a fixed
and shifting pulley, and which shafts, mitre, and bevil cog-wheels and
gear work is intended to be driven by hand or power, and can be
stopped instantly while the operations are going on. 5th. And as the
one or first hat or cap or bonnet block has received a layer of calico
or other fabric gummed with lac or other prepared solutions, the turn
table then revolves, and the second block takes the place of the first,
till the series of blocks, whatever number there may be on the turn
table, are one by one passed round, over, into, or under, horizontally
or perpendicular, or in any other position more suitable for the working
operations of the machinery for the crown, and the rim or brim of the
hat, cap, and bonnet are placed or put on, either on the top, while the
hat block is placed in a perpendicular position, or over and under the
crown or brim, and again in an horizontal position with the crown and

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brim of the hat, cap, and bonnet, and put on in an horizontal position,
and which principle I claim as new, or in any other position, which crown
and brim is put or placed on, (or, better describing the action of the
machine, is lifted or forced on to the hat, cap, and bonnet by an im-
proved machine fixed over and attached to the frame work of the turn
table, and fixed and extending over and under one portion of the turn
table to any distance required to facilitate the working operations,) when
the blocks has received the first layer of calico or other fabric, and
revolves or passes round to allow the second block to take its place, and
the turn table, as it turns, carries round in its turn the covered block to
and under or over the machine, or between and in an horizontal or
perpendicular or in any other position to or through the machine, as
may think best to adopt for the formation of the different shapes and
sizes required, and level with and opposite the central point of the
crown and rim or brim machine, under and to the centre of which is
brought to a stand still the revolving block either horizontally or per-
pendicular with the hat, cap, or bonnet body, ready to receive the
crown and brim of the hat or cap, and on which the turn table is
stopped by means of a lever. The covered block being now brought to
a stand still, and by a lever motion or motions, or by a cam or spring
wedge motion, are worked and acted upon and set in motion or brought
into play by the age of leverage, or levers, or screws, and by excentric
or crank motions; which lever, cam, wedge, screw, and excentric motion
or motions are intended to be worked horizontally, perpendicular, or
vertical, or in any other position that may be required to better facilitate
the operations, and to be used or employed or otherwise brought into
play, all and any one of the said motions, and which are employed and
attached in an horizontal or perpendicular position, and either up or
down, or both, or in any other position required, by which the crown
or brim are singly, or both at once, carried or passed forward up or
downwards, and over the edge of the layer of calico or other fabrics on
the block which is to form the hat, cap, or bonnet body, and, if neces-
sary, the crown and brim to be pressed or forced up or down, and on
to the inside of the intended hat or cap body, the circular plate or rim
having had the brim or rim placed on for the hats; which circular plates

page_text: or rims are placed on the spindle close up to the lathe head, and slides
backwards and forwards by means of the spring, and attached to the
head or fame; and which circular plate or rim by means of the spring
being attached is drawn to its proper position, whichever way it may
be placed. And set in motion is a lever, screw, or excentric motion,
which brings into play or action all or any one of the said lever, cam,
wedge, screw, or excentric motions, and which acts or rides upon and
against or between, and carries or presses forward to or against, up
or down, and outwards, as may be required; and on the circular plates
or rims on the spindles of the revolving blocks is placed segments of a
circular rim either of metal or wood, or with circular rims, and which
are moveable in a slot or groove, and can be set to any size circle.
On the circular plate or rim, and also attached to the frame of the
machine, and opposite to the rim and excentric or lever motion for the
rim or brim for the hat, cap, &c., is another circular plate with grooves
cut round, which has attached to it on the back a steel collar, which
slides on a spindle or shaft, and which allows the circular plate to slide
backwards and forwards; and behind this plate is another circular plate
with a rim in segments, and made to shift to the different sizes hats
and caps, and which also slides on the same spindle, behind which and
on the spindle is a spring, one end being fastened to the plate and the
other to the lathe or head of the frame that carries this spindle; in this
position it is acted upon and brought into action by the same motions
as the rim; the circular piece of calico or fabric prepared is carried on
the first circular plate by endless bands or friction rollers right over,
and in front or over, and under the circular plate I require for to
produce the different shapes, hats, and caps, &c. Now by means of the
excentric and lever or wedge motion applied and attached to and
behind the circular plates, and riding up or downwards and projecting,
forces or carries on the crown and brim singly, or both at once, and at
the same moment compressing the edges slightly to allow the crown
and brim to be more easily placed on, and as the excentric motion
the springs draws the circulars plates or rims back to their former
position. The various operations and motions in the machinery, and
which work as described, I claim to carry out and work all and any of
'

page_text: the operations and motions in any or all positions. The turn table now
passes round as required opposite and across another pan or trough
with the same cylinders, rollers, rotary brush, &c., &c., &c., to receive
the second layer of calico or other fabric solutioned and gummed, and
which single or double process is intended to be used either as a single
or double machine in my Invention, so that it can be worked with a
double pan and apparatus and machinery, as before described. The hat
having now received the second layer of calico or fabric, and taped, is
now passed round under a shaping machine, which is attached to the
frame work, and extending over the turn table, and which shape is
given to hat and brim by means of friction rollers or cylinders formed
in segments to the curves and shapes required, heated or not, and gives
the curve to the hat and brim as required. The body being now com-
pleted is either covered with plush or flock, and is passed round under
the flocking machine, and which is constructed and made in the form
a square box or case, either metal or wood, with the slides to move up
or down to allow the hat body to pass into the interior (the turn
table having been brought to a stand still). The hat body on the
revolving block, which block is put in motion, and is in the interior of
the box revolving, and over which is placed a rotary brush or fan in the
interior of the box or case, and inside of the box or case, and fixed to
the frame work, is two or more troughs or tubes placed in or at any
angle or upright position required, and which fan and brush revolving
at a great speed blows down with considerable force through the tubes,
in the interior of which is a wire gauze or seives, on to the hat, cap, or
bonnet body, which tubes being placed in an angular position form
like one double tube, and which forms a half circle or diamond, through
and under the centre of which is the body and block revolving, and to
be covered, and as the body receives the flock it is pressed on by means
of a roller, with rim rollers attached underneath, and which rollers
revolves with the hat block; after it has received the covering necessary,
the side of the box or case rises up to allow the block to pass round to
the last stage of fanning and brushing, which is done by means of a
revolving or rotary brush and fan beating, blowing, and brushing off the
superfluous flock into a box placed underneath the block or part where

page_text: the operations are performed; and in the last stage or part for finishing
the hat is placed a punching machine attached to an excentric motion,
which rides up or down over the hat body or bodies, and which is
intended for the perforating of the hats, caps, and bonnets: the hat being
now finished, the block is taken off, and is placed on to a revolving
spindle attached to a large circular plate or fly wheel, with a number
of these arms or spindles attached and projectings; and I claim this
revolving or rotary circular plate or fly wheel, with revolving spindles
or shafts attached or let into either on the surface or sides, and on the
perifery of the plate or wheel, with the rotary or revolving turn table,
with lathe, spindles, or shafts attached: while the block with hat on is
on this circular it is further finished by having a gloss put on by means
of heated rollers, &c.