Improvements in Wig and other Hair Structures.
Year: 1897

page_text: Improvements in Wig and other Hair Structures.
I, JAMES YOCUM BORDEN, of St. Davids, in the County of Delaware, State of
Pennsylvania, one of the United States of America, Manufacturer of hair goods,
do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
My invention relates to improvements in hair structures and one of the main
features of the invention is to make a hair switch which can be rolled, puffed or
twisted similar to the natural hair, dispensing with the ordinary long core, and I
also make this switch in sections so that one or more sections can be used as
required. The other feature of the invention is to make a hair structure of the
wig, wave or bang type much more substantial than heretofore and which can be
taken apart and reconstructed to form different hair structures when the fashions
change, and which can be readily repaired in case there is a defect in any section.
In making my improved hair structures, either for switches, wigs or bangs, the
base of each structure consists of a series of loops made of folded hair weft and
these loops of hair weft are secured together or to other strips which, when formed
in certain ways, either make a switch, wig or bang structure.
Hair switches as universally made are formed of weft adapted to a central core,
which ordinarily extends at least one third of the length of the structure, con-
sequently the structure is not susceptible of being twisted and puffed the same as
the ordinary hair. A certain amount of twisting and puffing may be accomplished,
but this must be done with the core or centre forming part of the twist. The hair
cannot be puffed and rolled up to the point of attachment to the head as in the
switch made in accordance with my invention.
Furthermore by the use of my switch, having a central opening, the natural
hair of the head can be passed through this opening when it is wished to cover it
by the hair of the switch and the switch makes a complete cover; the hair of the
head being simply used as a filler or body. This is particularly useful where the
hair is partly coloured.
My improved switch is made in two sections, the main body of each section is
formed by folding the ordinary hair weft back and forth aud binding it by au
overstitch, one strand of hair weft being set slightly in advance of the other so as
not to make the base thick and clumsy; after the weft has been passed a number
of times back and forth according to the required weight of the switch I then
make the heading or covering by extending the weft across the top once or several
times so that the hair from the weft thus placed acts as a cover for the loose ends
of the hair held by the loop, so that when the switch is examined from the front
the base is not visible. A base made in the manner described is pliable and flat
and can be secured tightly against the head.
In making the heading I preferably extend the weft one complete turn so as to
place a strand of hair weft at the back as well as at the front, and this back atrand
of hair I pass through the loop making a neat finish to the structure.

page_text: At the upper end of the switch I form one or more loops through which can be
passed a hair pin or comb to attach the switch to the hair of the head. When it
is required to attach the two switch sections together to form an enlarged switch
I preferably provide one section with hooks and the other section with eyes, form-
ing complementary fastenings. Other means of attaching the two sections
together may be employed so that by simply coupling the two sections a thick
switch can be used if fashion so requires it, but if very little hair is worn then a
single switch can be used by simply uncoupling the sections. Furthermore by
making the sections coupled in the manner described they can be opened and laid
flat upon the head so that they will fall to each side, and side puffs may be readily
formed.
In order to make a tubular switch I may provide eud fastenings for each section
so that they can be coupled together in the form of a tube. In this instance the
loops of hair weft are formed and placed side by side and 1 may attach loops to
the sections through which a hair pin or comb may be passed to secure the switch
to the head.
An advantage of this switch over the ordinary switch is that the base is wide
and Hat so that it can be attached in this flat condition to the hair of the head and
combed and dressed to form broad rolls at the back of the head or the ends of the
sections can be attached to form a hollow switch, through which can be passed
the natural hair of the head, thus covering up the hair of the head and using it as a
core or filler. This is especially of advantage to persons whose hair is partly
coloured and where they wish to dress the head in one shade of hair.
Fastenings may in some instances be secured to the end of each section as well
as to the sides so that they can be used either side by side or end to end.
In the manufacture of wigs and hair structures of this type it has been common
to attach the hair in single strands to a hair net, which extends under the entire
structure, except at the free ends. This structure is very costly to manufacture
in the first place, and the net rots very quickly owing to the perspiration from the
head, and if a section should give way the entire hair structure would have to be
discarded.
Furthermore a structure made in this manner is very fragile owing to the method
of attaching the hair to the base so that it will not withstand combing to any
great extent.
By my invention I only use a narrow strip of hair netting with hair attached at
the centre in order to make a part, the main body of the hair is not attached
directly to the net. I preferably border the uet by a narrow baud of substantial
material and to this border is attached strands of hair in the same manner as the
hair is attached to the net.
Ou each side of the centre piece thus formed are a series of extensions or loops
made of hair weft as described above and the loops are connected together and the
base loop is securely attached to the border of the ceutre piece. The main body
of the hair extends from these loops and as the loops themselves are made from the
hair weft and bound in a substantial manner it is impossible to detach the hair
by the ordinary combing.
The structure will not rot so readily as those heretofore used as the loops allow
for thorough ventilation and the head will not perspire to a greater extent than is
common with the natural hair as the strip of netting is very narrow and will have
very little effect.
The structure may be made up of a number of loops secured together and to
the border and in some instances the loops may extend at one or both ends and
when necessary one side may have a greater number of loops than the other if the
part is to be at one side, or if more hair is required on one side than the other.
Dated this 4th day of February 1897.

page_text: I, JAMES YOCUM BORDEN, of St. Davids, in the County of Delaware, State of
Pennsylvania, one of the United States of America, Manufacturer of hair goods,
do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to
be performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:-
My invention relates to certain improvements in hair structures such as
'switches wigs," "waves," and "bangs" which will be described in detail
hereinafter.
The first part of my invention comprises that form of hair structure known as
aswitch," constructed in such a manner that it can be rolled, puffed or twisted
similar to the natural hair. The switch constructed in accordance with this part
of my invention is preferably made in sections, and is provided with suitable fasten-
ing devices, whereby one or more sections can be used as may be required. The
second part of my invention comprises a
"wig,"
wave," "bang," or other similar
hair structure constructed in such a manner as to be more substantial than similar
hair structures heretofore made, but which may be readily taken apart and recon-
structed to form a new style when the fashions change, or may be readily repaired
if there be any defect in the same.
37 46
I will describe my invention with reference to the accompanying drawings in
which: -
Fig. 1 is a view on an enlarged scale of the "weaving" or strip of prepared hair,
from which the hair structures are made;
Fig. 2 is a viow of the "weaving" or strip of prepared hair completely folded,
to show the arrangement of the parts preparatory to sewing together;
Fig. 3 is a view of the folded "weaving" as it appears in the completed hair
structures;
"
Fig. 4 is an interior view of one section of a switch" illustrating the first part
of my invention;
Fig. 5 is a similar view of the other section of the "switch;"
Fig. 6 is an interior view, and Fig. 7 an exterior view of the hair structure,
shewing the sections of the switch" coupled together:
"
Fig. 8 is a plan view of a hair structure technically known as a “front piece,"
illustrating the second part of my invention;
Fig. 9 is an inverted plan view of the structure shewn in Fig. 8;
11
Fig. 10 is an interior view of a sectional hair "switch," of a character similar
to that illustrated in Figs. 4 to 7, coupled on edge and adapted to form a “switch
with a central opening, and
Fig. 1 is a view of the structure with the sections coupled together, forming a
"switch" with a central opening.
The base of each hair structure consists of a series of loops made of strips of
folded hair weft, and these loops are secured together or to other strips, which,
when arranged in certain ways, form bases for either a switch, wig, wave, or bang
structure.
In constructing these bases for my improved hair structures, I take a strip of
hair fabric, usually known in the trade as "weaving," shewn at A, in Fig. 1, and
lay the woven band in folds or lape back and forth upon each other, as illustrated
in Fig. 2, and then secure the layers or folds of the band together by stitches form-
ing a bucking. I then double or bend the band thus formed into a U-shaped
loop a, as shewn in Fig. 3, and make a heading or cover for the same by extending
the weft across the top one or more times. The structures having bases thus formed,
n

page_text: aro shewn in Figs. 4 to 11, inclusive, and are of such a nature that they may be
cleaned by any of the usual means for cleansing the hair, and may be combed and
brushed out and arranged in any fashion that the wearer may desire. A strand of
the natural hair may be pulled through the loop shewn in Fig. 3, and then laid
and secured as usual, the hair structure thus being held in position by the strand
without the aid of pins or other fastenings.
of the
Hair switches as universally made, prior to my invention, were formed of weft
adapted to a central core, which ordinarily extended at least one-third
length of the structure, and in consequence the structure was not susceptible of
being twisted and puffed the same as the natural hair. A certain amount of
twisting and puthing could be accomplished, but when this was done the core or
centre formed a part of the twist and the hair could not he puffed and rolled up
to the point of attachment to the head as in the switch made in accordance with
my invention. Furthermore, by the use of a switch having a central opening
constructed in accordance with my invention, the natural hair of the head may be
passed through this opening and the hair of the switch will completely cover it;
the hair of the head being simply used as a fillor or body. This arrangement is
particularly useful where the natural hair is of two shades of the same colour and
it is wished to dress the head with hair of the same shade.
Referring to Figs. 4 to 7, inclusive, the switch is made in two sections A' and A³.
The main body of each section is formed by folding the ordinary hair weft back
and forth and binding it by an overstitch as shewn in Fig. 2, one strand of hair
weft being set slightly in advance of the other so as not to make the base a' thick
and clumsy. After the weft has been passed a number of times back and forth,
according to the required weight of the switch, 1 then make the heading or cover
of the base by extending the weft across the top one or more times. The hair
from the weft thus placed acts as a cover for the root ends of the hair held by the
loop so that when the switch is examined from the front the base is not visible.
A base made in the manner described is flat and pliable and can be tightly secured
against the head.
In making the heading of the bases a', I preferably extend the weft, one com-
pleto turn, so as to place a strand of hair weft at the back as well as at the front,
and this back strand of hair I pass through the loop, making a neat finish to the
structure.
At the upper end of the switch, I form one or more loops b, through which may
be passed a hair-pin or comb to attach the switch to the hair of the head, and in
order that the two switch-sections A and As may be attached together to form an
enlarged switch, I preferably provide one section with hooks and the other
section with eyes el forming complementary fastenings, or with any other suitable
means of attachment, so that by simply coupling the two sections, a thick switch
can be used if fashion so dictates; but if very little hair is to be worn, then either
section when uncoupled may be used singly. Furthermore, by making the sections
so that they can be coupled in the manner described, they can, if desired, be
opened out and each section laid flat upon the head, falling to each side of the
from which side puffs can be readily formed. The strip B is sewn onto the
heading to cover the end and also to serve as a name strip.
same,
The second part of my invention is illustrated in Figs. 8 and 9 which shew
respectively, a plan and an inverted plan view of a hair structure known as a
"front piece." Heretofore, in the manufacture of wigs and hair structures of this
type, it has been common to attach the hair in single strands to a hair net extending
under the entire structure, except at the free ends. Such a hair structure as this,
however, is open to several objections. It is very costly to manufacture in the first
instance; the net rots very quickly owing to the perspiration from the head, and
if a section of the same should give way, the entire structure would have to be
discarded. By my invention, only a narrow strip B' of hair netting is used with
hair attached at the centre of the same to make the part, the main body of the
hair not being attached directly to the net. The net B is bordered by a band b

page_text: of more substantial material, and to this border strands of hair are attached in the
same manner as the hair is attached to the net.
On each side of the net 13 are a series of extensions or loops a made of hair
weft in the manner described with reference to the bases a' and as shewn in Fig. 2.
The loops are connected together as shewn and the base loop of each set is
securely attached to the band or border of the net B. I have shown in the
present instance three sets of loops on each side of the net B', the central set having
the greater number of loops to give the shape shewn in the drawings. The main
body of hair extends from these loops, and as the loops themselves are made from
the hair weft and are bound in a substantial manner, it is impossible to detach
the hair by ordinary combing. The structure will not rot so readily as those
heretofore made, as the loops allow for thorough ventilation, and the head will
not perspire to a greater extent than is common with the natural hair, the
section of netting being so narrow as to have very little heating effect upon the
head.
In some instances the loops of hair weft may extend at one or both ends as shewn
by dotted lines, Fig. 9, and one side may have a greater number of loops than the
other if the part is to be on one side, or if, for any purpose, more hair is required
on one side than on the other.
Referring to Figs. 10 and 11, I have shown a modified construction of the switch
forming the first part of my invention. This switch can be made much heavier
than the one shewn in Fig. 4, and may be made in two sections and coupled
together in any suitable manner, or it may be made in one section and the ends
of the heading provided with suitable fastenings so that a single section may be
coupled to form a tubular switch. In this modified form of switch, the loops a³
of hair weft are formed in the same manner as the loops and previously
described and are placed side by side in the usual manner. The sections are also
provided with a series of loops ' through which a hair pin or comb may be passed
to secure the switch to the head.
This modified form of switch has advantages in addition to those possessed by
the switch shown in Figs. 4 to 7, inclusive; the base is wide and flat so that it may
be attached in the flat condition to the hair of the head and combed and dressed
to form broad rolls at the back of the head, or the ends of the section can be
attached to form a hollow switch through which may he passed the natural hair
of the head, the switch covering the said hair which forms a core or filler for the
switch. Fastening devices may be provided on the upper end of each section as
well as at the sides so that the sections may be secured together side by side or end
to end.
Having no particularly described and ascertained the nature of my inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is:-
1. As a new article of manufacture, a coreless hair switch made up of a series
of strands of the hair weft secured together in the form of a loop, with strauds of
hair weft forming a heading for the loop, the hair of the exterior strands extending
over the loop and covering it, substantially as hereinbefore described.
2. As a new article of mauufacture, a coreless switch made in two sections,
each section composed of a series of strands of hair secured together in the form of
a loop and heading-strands secured thereto, forming a pliable and flat base, with
fastenings on the headings of the two sections for detachably securing the same
together, substantially as hereinbefore described.
3. As a new article of manufacture, a hair switch composed of a series of loops,
each loop being formed of a series of strands of hair weft secured together, forming
a flat base with fastenings upon the edges of the outermost loop, whereby the said
loops may be secured together to form a hollow switch, substantially as herein-
bofore described.
4. As a new article of manufacture, a hair structure having a centre piece of

page_text: netting with hair attached to the upper face thereof, and having loops of hair
weft attached to the edge thereof, the hair of the said loop forming the main body
of the hair structure, substantially as herein before described.
5. The combination in a hair structure, of the central strip of net, hair attached
to the upper surface thereof, a border secured thereto, hair attached to the upper
face of the border, with a series of loops composed of hair weft, the said loops being
attached to the border and forming the body of the hair structure, substantially
as hereinbefore described.
6. The combination of a narrow strip of netting forming the centre of the hair
structure, hair attached to the upper surface thereof sufficient to cover the netting,
with a series of looped sections of hair weft attached at intervals along each side
of the said strip, each section composed of one or more loops and the said sections
forming the main body of the hair structure, substantially as hereinbefore described.
Dated this 3rd day of November 1897.
JOHNSONS & WILLCOX,
47, Lincoln's Inn Fields, London, W.C., Agents.

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