AN IMPROVEMENT IN 'WIRING' HAT AND BONNET SHAPES OR FOUNDATIONS, AND IN APPARATUS FOR THE SAME.
Year: 1874

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Edgar Bowyer and Jacob Strupp, both of St.
Luke's, in the County of Middlesex, for the Invention of "AN
IMPROVEMENT IN 'WIRING' HAT AND BONNET SHAPES OR FOUNDATIONS, AND
IN APPARATUS FOR THE SAME.'
"
Sealed the 23rd February 1875, and dated the 23rd November 1874.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Edgar Bowyer and
Jacob Strupp at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with
their Petition, on the 23rd November 1874.
We, EDGAR BOWYER and JACOB STRUPP, both of St. Luke's in the
County of Middlesex, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention
for "AN IMPROVEMENT IN WIRING' HAT AND BONNET SHAPES OR FOUNDATIONS,
AND IN APPARATUS FOR THE SAME," to be as follows:—
Our Invention relates to an improved method of securing the wire to
the edges of the brim and crown of bonnet and hat shapes, or foundations
made of net and such like fabrics.

page_text: Hitherto it has been usual to apply the wire near the edge of the
fabric and fasten it loosely by a running stitch cast over the wire, but
this method not only presents a very unfinished appearance, as it leaves
the ragged edge of the net or fabric exposed, but the wire fulfils the
purpose of stiffening the net and strengthening the shape or foundation
in a very imperfect manner, as it is not fixed with sufficient firmness to
the net. Now by our Invention the wire is so fixed as to give a very
finished appearance to the shape or foundation, the ragged edges of the
net being completely concealed, and much greater stiffness and strength
is imparted to the fabric than by the old method of wiring.
According to our Invention the edges of the net or fabric are turned
or lapped over the wire and secured by adhesive material, the wire being
completely enclosed by the net. In blocking the shape the net is creased
where the wire is to be applied, the dies being suitably formed to effect
this. In applying and fixing the wire it is placed in the crease formed to
receive it, and the edges turned over and secured by heat and pressure
applied by means of an iron of peculiar shape, the dressing on the
fabric itself serving to unite the two thicknesses of the fabric, or any
suitable adhesive material may be applied if necessary. The face of the
iron is made with a groove to avoid pressing on the wire, and at the
front end of the iron we provide a guide, acting somewhat in the manner
of a sowing machine hemmer guide, for turning or folding the edge of
the net or fabric over the wire in readiness for being pressed by the
iron.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, 2
filed by the said Edgar Bowyer and Jacob Strupp in the Great
Seal Patent Office on the 21st May 1875.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, wc, EDGAR
BOWYER and JACOB STRUPP, both of St. Luke's, in the County of
Middlesex, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Twenty-third day of November, in the
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-four, in
the thirty-eighth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her licirs and

page_text: According to our Invention the edge of the net or fabric is doubled or
folded over the wire so as to completely enclose the same. To facilitate
folding the fabric I prefer when blocking the shape to crease the net or
fabric where it is to be folded over the wire, the dies being suitably
formed for this purpose. In applying and fixing the wire it is placed in
the crease thus formed and the edge of the shape being turned over it by
hand and secured by heat and pressure applied by means of a hot iron
whilst the shape is on a block in the well known way, the dressing on
the fabric itself serving to unite the two thicknesses of the fabric.
The iron used is of peculiar shape, as represented in end, side, and
face views in the accompanying Drawing, Figures 1, 2, and 3. The
face of the iron is made with a groove, as shown, to avoid pressing on
the wire and to guide the iron.
Figure 4 shows a hat shape as blocked with creases at b, b, near tho
edges to receive the wire; Figure 5 shows the same when wired, and :
the edges folded over, and the double thickness of fabric c united
together, as above described.
Having described the nature of the Invention, and the manner of
performing the same, we declare that what we claim as the Invention to
be protected by the herein-before in part recited Letters Patent is,―
1st. Fixing the wire to hat or bonnet shapes or foundations made of
net or buckram by folding the shape itself over the wire so as to enclose
the same, as specified, the edge of the fabric being secured as described.
2nd. The use of an iron provided with a longitudinal groove on its
face, substantially as and for the purpose specified.
In witness whereof, I, the said Edgar Bowyer, for myself and on
behalf of the said Jacob Strupp, have hereunto set my hand
and seal, this Twentieth day of May, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and seventy-five.