IMPROVEMENTS IN THE METHOD OF WEAVING CERTAIN DESCRIPTIONS OF FABRICS TERMED DIAGONALS, AND TWILLS
Year: 1864

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Joseph Clegg, of High Crompton, in the County
of Lancaster, Cotton Spinner, John Smith, of the same Place,
Manager, and William Carnelley, of Manchester, in the same County,
Warehouseman, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE METHOD
OF WEAVING CERTAIN DESCRIPTIONS OF FABRICS TERMED DIAGONALS, AND
TWILLS."
Sealed the 12th July 1864, and dated the 2nd February 1864.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Joseph Clegg, John Smith,
and William Carnelley at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with
their Petition, on the 2nd February 1864.
. We, JOSEPH CLEGG, of High Crompton, in the County of Lancaster,
Cotton Spinner, JOHN SMITH, of the same Place, Manager, and WILLIAM
CARNELLEY, of Manchester, in the same County, Warehouseman, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE METHOD
OF WEAVING CERTAIN DESCRIPTION OF FABRICS TERMED DIAGONALS' AND 'TWILLS," "
to be as follows:-
The Invention relates to the weaving of a description of goods called
diagonals "
" and "twills," in which a "twill" or diagonal" surface is
imparted to them by an ordinary and well-known arrangement of the warp
and weft whilst weaving.

page_text: Our Invention is designed to produce an improved and more regular
appearance on the twilled surface of the cloth, and consists in a peculiar
arrangement or intersection of the warp and weft, which is to be produced by
the action of the healds as usual, and is as follows:-First, a "ground pick
is made (that is equal warp and weft), next a "surface pick," which forms a
twill, then another "surface pick," which forms a second twill, but so close
The
as to appear but one, then another "ground pick " is made, and so on.
following Diagram will explain the method to the practical weaver.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Joseph Clegg, John Smith, and William Carnelley in the
Great Seal Patent Office on the 30th July 1864.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, JOSEPH
CLEGG, of High Crompton, in the County of Lancaster, Cotton Spinner,
JOHN SMITH, of the same Place, Manager, and WILLIAM CARNELLEY, of
Manchester, in the same County, Warehouseman, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Second day of February, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-four, in the twenty-seventh year of
Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto
us, the said Joseph Clegg, John Smith, and William Carnelley, Her special
license that we, the said Joseph Clegg, John Smith, and William Carnelley,
our executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as we, the said
Joseph Clegg, John Smith, and William Carnelley, our executors, adminis-
trators, and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from
time to time and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed,
should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United
Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle
of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE METHOD OF WEAVING CERTAIN
DESCRIPTIONS OF FABRICS TERMED DIAGONALS' AND TWILLS,'" upon the con-

page_text: dition (amongst others) that we, the said Joseph Clegg, John Smith, and
William Carnelley, our executors. or administrators, by an instrument in
writing under our, or one of our, or their, or one of their hands and seals,
should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Inven-
tion, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause
the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar
months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Joseph Clegg, do hereby declare the
nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement and accompanying Diagrams (that is to say):—
The Invention relates to the weaving of a description of goods called
"diagonals" and "twills," in which a "twill" or "diagonal" surface is imparted
to them by an ordinary and well-known arrangement of the warp and weft
whilst weaving.
Our Invention is designed to produce an improved and more regular
appearance on the twilled surface of the cloth and consists in a peculiar
arrangement or intersection of the warp and weft, which is to be produced by
the action of the healds as usual, and is as follows:--First a "ground pick "
is made (that is equal warp and weft), next a "surface pick," which forms a
twill, then another "surface pick," which forms a second twill, but so close as
to appear but one, then another "ground pick " is made, and so on. The
following Diagrams or "tie-ups" will explain the method to the practical
weaver, the red lines denoting the warp threads and the blue the weft, the
marks across shewing where the weft threads are held beneath the warp.
We would remark that in weaving what is termed an ordinary "three-end
twill" requires what weavers understand as "three picks to a revolution."
Our improved method of weaving requires nine picks, an ordinary "four-
end diagonal" requires four picks, a "five end" ten picks, a "six end " twelve
picks, our improved method requires respectively twelve, fifteen, and eighteen
picks.
**
We would also remark that the Invention is particularly applicable to that
description of diagonals" and "twills," called "weft face twills" and
"diagonals," that is, wherein the weft constitutes the greater portion of the
face or surface of the cloth.
Having now described the nature of the said Invention, together with the
method of carrying the same into practical effect, we wish it to be distinctly
understood that we claim the peculiar method of weaving twills and "diagonals"
by a novel arrangement of the warp and weft threads, which may be effected

page_text: by the use of the Diagrams shewn or by other equivalent arrangements
to produce similar results which any practical weaver would be able to
arrange.
In witness whereof, I, the said Joseph Clegg, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Twenty-ninth day of July, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-four.
JOSEPH CLEGG. (L.B.)