A New or Improved Artificial Feather and the Manufacture of the same.
Year: 1897

page_text: Date of Application, 3rd Apr., 1897
Complete Specification Left, 1st Jan., 1898-Accepted, 26th Mar., 1898
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
A New or Improved Artificial Feather and the Manufacture of the
same.
I, RICHARD TILT, of 19, Queen Street, Coventry, Warwickshire, Weaver, do
hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
My invention relates to artificial feathers, and the manufacture of the same,
especially curled feathers, such as are employed in trimming ladies' hats and for
similar purposes, and it consists essentially in a woven feather and the method of
and means for manufacturing the same as hereinafter described.
In constructing a feather according to my invention I take a quantity of spun
silk or other suitable material in the form of sliver and steep it in liquid gum or
the like. The sliver is next dried and wound on the quill or spool of a shuttle
ready for weaving; or it may be stiffened and adapted to curl in any other con-
venient manner. The loom is prepared with a narrow double set of silk or other
suitable warp threads adapted to be woven into a tube; adjacent to these on each
side is a set of threads adapted to be woven single; and at a suitable distance away
from the centre on either side are arranged binding threads. A wire or the like
is set one on each side of the centre, the distance between the wires corresponding
to the width of the web to be woven. The loom is then started, the gummed or
similarly prepared sliver forms the shute or weft and passes round the wires as
well as engaging with the warp threads. When a sufficient length of web has
been woven it is removed from the loom and the loop edges out. This allows the
free ends of the shute or weft to curl after the manner of the side of a curled
ostrich or like feather. The curling takes place as far as the binding threads
which retain the parts between them and the centre almost smooth. The binding
threads may be worked in towards the centre at each end of the feather. A. double
piece of wire or the like, holding a separate tuft of curled material in the bend,
is then threaded down the tubular centre of the web and left straight or set to any
desired curve. The wire or the like is made long enough to project a convenient
distance through the web and the projecting end or ends are bound with silk or
the like; the ends of the warp threads may be secured at the same time and the
whole finished off.
Though I have described the manufacture as applied to one feather it will be
readily understood that a quantity may be made simultaneously in a suitable loom.
The feathers may be coloured, shaded or parti-coloured as required. The tubular
portion covering the wire is preferably woven closely of a lustrous material to
imitate the smooth shiny appearance of the natural shaft.

page_text: It will be obvious that my invention is capable of modification in various ways
without exceeding the limits thereof.
Datad this Ind day of duil 1907
A New or Improved Artificial Feather and the Manufacture of the
same.
I, RICHARD TILT, of 19, Queen Street, Coventry, Warwickshire, Weaver, do
hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement-
My invention relates to artificial feathers, and the manufacture of the same,
especially curled feathers such as are employed in trimming ladies' hats and for
similar purposes, and it consists essentially in a woven feather and the method of
and means for manufacturing the same, as hereinafter describel.
In tho accompanying drawings,--
Fig. I is a general view of a feather constructed according to my invention.
Figure II shows separately the wire of the shaft holding the end tuft of the
feather, the tuft being in section.
The same reference numerals apply to the same parts in both figures, where
shown.
In constructing a feather according to my invention I take a quantity of spun
silk, "thrown silk" or other suitable material in the form of sliver and steep it in
liquid gum or preferably treat it with a preparation of gelatine, potato water and
loaf sugar. This may be prepared by boiling and pulping say 1 lb. of potatoes in
say 1 gallon of water; the liquid is strained and say oz. of gelatine is next dis-
solved therein; finally a small quantity of pounded loaf sugar is added and dissolved.
I find this preparation very effective in resisting damp, but it forms no essential part
of the present invention as other preparations may be used with more or less
Buccess. After the sliver has been steeped in the adhesive preparation it is prefer-
ably baked until thoroughly dry. Next it is wound on the quill or spool of a
shuttle ready for weaving; or it may be stiffened and adapted to curl in any
other convenient manner. The loom is prepared with a narrow double set of silk
or other suitable warp threads adapted to be woven into a tube 2; adjacent to these
ou euch side is a set of threads 3 adapted to be woven single; and at a suitable
distance away from the centre on each side are arranged one or more sets of warp
threads hereinafter referred to as binding threads . Two wires or the like are
set one on each side of the centre, the distance between the wires corresponding
to the width of the web to be woven. The loom is then started; the gummed or
similarly prepared sliver forms a shute or weft 5 and passes round the wires as
well as engaging with the warp threads. When a web of sufficient length has been
woven, it is removed from the loom and the loop edges cut. This allows the free
ends 6 of the slute or weft to curl after the manner of the sides of a curled ostrich
or like feather. The curling takes place as far as the outside binding threads,
or in places, as towards the tip, as far as the inside binding threads while the parts
of the web between the said binding threads and the centre are retained almost

page_text: smooth. The binding threads may be pushed in towards the centre at each end
of the feather by hand or the web may be otherwise shaped as desired. A piece
of wire or the like 7, either doubled throughout, or preferably at the top only,
and of rectangular section, as shown, is adapted to be threaded down the tubular
centre of the web to provide the necessary stiffness in the shaft. A tuft 12 of the
curled sliver is fitted into the loop 8 at the top of the wire or the like which loop
may be secured with fine binding wire 9. The wire or the like may be left
straight or set to any desired curve; and it is made long enough to project a con-
venient distance through the web. Both ends 10 of the wire or the like are gummed
or similarly prepared to receive the ends of the warp threads which are stuck thereto
and bound with silk or the like thus securing the web in position on the wire or
the like.
Though I have described the manufacture as applied to one feather it will bo
readily understood that a quantity may be woven simultaneously in a suitable loom.
The feathers may be coloured, shaded or parti-coloured as required, by any suitablo
means. The tubular portion 2 covering the wire is preferably woven closely of a
lustrous material to imitate the smooth shiny appearance of the natural shaft.
It will be obvious that my invention is capable of modification in various ways
without exceeding the limits thereof, for example, cane, whalebone or any other
suitable material may be used instead of wire in the shaft.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is:-
1. A woven artificial feather with a wire or similar shaft.
2. An artificial feather constructed by weaving a web, the edges of which web
are cut and adapted to curl, the centre of which is kept comparatively smooth by
binding threads, and one portion of which is woven tubular to receive a stiffening
wire or the like, substantially as set forth.
3. In an artificial feather of the kind referred to in the preceding claiming
clauses, the use of a wire or the like to stiffen the shaft and carry an end tuft,
substantially as set forth.
4. The herein described method of and means for constructing artificial feathers.
Dated this 31st day of December 1897
G. DOUGLAS LEECHMAN,
18, Hertford Street, Coventry,
75, Chancery Lane, London, W.C., and 49, Middle Abbey Street, Dublin.
Patent Agent for the Applicant.