IMPROVEMENTS IN LACE MACHINERY. FOR THE MANU- FACTURE OF VELVET LACE AND LOOPED FABRICS, AND IN THE FABRICS MANUFACTURED BY SUCH MACHINERY."
Year: 1858

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Edward Reader and John Dewick, both of Finkhill
.Street, in the Town and County of the Town of Nottingham, Machinists,
.for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN LACE MACHINERY. FOR THE MANU-
FACTURE OF VELVET LACE AND LOOPED FABRICS, AND IN THE FABRICS
MANUFACTURED BY SUCH MACHINERY."
PROVISIONAL. SPECIFICATION left by the said Edward Reader and John
Dewick at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with their Petition,
on the 8th February 1858.
.I, EDWARD READER, and I, JOHN DEWICK, both of Finkhill Street, in the
Town and County of the Town of Nottingham, Machinists, do hereby declare
the nature of. the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN LACE MACHINERY FOR
THE MANUFACTURE OF VELVET LACE AND LOOPED FABRICS, AND IN THE FABRICS
MANUFACTURED BY SUCH MACHINERY," to be as follows:-
Our Invention relates to improvements in bobbin net lace machinery, for
the manufacture of ornamental fabrics therein, in which the groundwork of
the: fabric is in the form of lace. or fabric such as produced in those lace
machines, while the loop or pile forming the ornament is produced on the
surface to represent a flower or other design according to pattern, which may
traverse the fabric in any required direction. In such lace machinery used to:
manufacture looped or pile fabric heretofore, the looping or pile when-other-

page_text: wise than at the edge of the web could only be produced in parts, in straight
lines, or in rows throughout the length of the web, whereas in the machinery
arranged and constructed according to our Invention this looped or pile
ornament can be produced, as before mentioned, according to designs
traversing the web in any direction, similar to that produced in ordinary
lace. Moreover, the groundwork of the fabric where it remains uncovered
by the loops or pile, according to our Invention, and as made by our improved
machinery, resembles, and is in fact, an open lace pattern, in which the warp
and loop or pile threads are collected and bound together by the bobbin or
weft thread into longitudinal pillars or cords connected together at intervals
by the weft according to the size of the mesh required. Our apparatus also.
forms an open or network fabric, in which the looping may be purled all
round the mesh or opening throughout the fabric or in parts only, as
required.
Bobbin net machinery, as well understood, comprises a series of parallel
guide bars, having each a series of eyes which conduct the warp threads up
between bobbins in the order accordingly as the sheds are opened therein by
the longitudinal traverse motion of the guide bars, or it may be by stump bars.
In machines used heretofore in the manufacture of pile or looped fabrics the
material forming the pile has been introduced by an extra guide bar or bars
actuated in manner similar to the guide bars of the warp, the-loop being made
by throwing such thread around an upright stem or instrument which rises
up from the position of the guide bars. This instrument regulates the size of
the loop; the loops are carried up off this instrument by the progress of the
work, either cut or uncut. As well understood in lace making, the bobbins
pass through the shed, carrying a weft thread through, which secures the
crossing of the warp forming the ground of the fabric, and also the loops
formed on the material introduced to form the pile or looped surface. The
crossings of the weft are carried up to the finished work by "points," which
enter the sheds during the passage of the bobbins and carriages..
According to our Invention we employ guide bars for the warp-threads-and
for the loop threads, arranged and controlled in a particular manner in com-
bination with stump bars. For the warp of the groundwork of the fabric we
employ four guide bars, and either one or two guide bars for the introduction
of the loop 'or pile threads, which are placed in the middle of the warp and
stump bars, they being arranged three on either side. Each triplet consists
of one outside and one inside guide bar, with a stump bar between the two.
The arms carrying the eyes of the outside guide bar are of the ordinary form,
but the arms carrying the eyes of the inside bars are bent nearly at right

page_text: angles towards each other, leaving sufficient space for a thread to pass up
between the opposite eyes; the stump bars are bent in the same direction
above the bent arms of the guide eyes. The guide bar conducting the
material to form the loop or pile is of the ordinary form, but is mounted on a
fulcrum, so as to oscillate from side to side towards and from the other guide
bars. The eyes of this guide bar are on a lower level than the bent guides
conducting the warp threads, so that when the loop thread bar is oscillated, the
eyes pass close under the bent guide eyes; the loop threads then passing up
between the bent arms of such eyes are in a position to be acted on by the
stump bar, which shoggs or moves the loop thread so as to form the shed, at
which time a loop is taken up. The other parts of the machine having
performed their office, the loop bar then oscillates to the centre, when another
loop is taken up; in this instance the shed is opened by the shogging of the
oscillating bar itself. The other motions of the machine being complete,
the loop bar then oscillates under the bent arms of the warp guide bar on
its other side, when a stump bar acts upon the thread, as before explained
with reference to the opposite side, these several loops being all worked in
and secured by the weft and warp threads of the four guide bars before
mentioned.
In some instances we introduce two oscillating loop guide bars between
the stump and guide bars, in which case the oscillating bars only oscillate
half the distance described with reference to the single oscillating bar, that is
to say, from one side to the centre. In this case there are two loops being
taken up at the same time, one with the loop thread in the centre and another
from the thread shogged by one or other of the stump bars. By this means
we are enabled to introduce a great amount of loop or pile surface with four
warp threads to form the ground, and it is this peculiar combination and
arrangement of the guide bars which constitutes our improvements in this
part of our Invention.
Another part of our Invention relates to the means of taking up the loop
to form the looped or pile surface, which consists in the use of a hook, which
we place immediately above the front "point" used for gathering up the weft
in the shed. The motion of this hooked instrument is somewhat similar to
that of the "point.". When the shed of a loop thread is opened it descends
and takes up a loop, and draws it out of any required length, which it holds
until the motions of the machine cause the points to follow in succession, so
as to gather up the sheds and weft thread thrown subsequently, which secures
the loop so taken up. The point on the hook side of the fabric then descends,
the hook following immediately leaves the loop so taken up, and descends to

page_text: repeat the operation, and so on. One hook only is mentioned herein; there
is, however, a series of such instruments fixed in a bar similar to the points.
Having completed the ornament or pattern, a part of the groundwork may
then be left uncovered by the loops, in which case we form open lace work,
as herein-before mentioned.
In order that the ornamental looped or pile pattern surface may be produced
at one part of the breadth of the fabric while the uncovered groundwork is
being produced at another part simultaneously, we impart the same motions
continuously to all the guide bars, and we counteract the motion so given to
the warp and loop threads, when required, by introducing jacks by means
of jacquard apparatus, as well understood in lace weaving by such machinery,
which jacks stop the opening of the sheds, as may be required to produce the
ornamental pattern or open lacework herein-before mentioned.
By these several means we are enabled to produce velvet lace or fabrics
ornamented with raised loop or pile surfaces of similar design to any now
carried out in lace making.
The looped surface may be afterwards sheared or cut.and finished on the
face, as well understood in finishing pile fabrics..
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Edward Reader and John Dewick in the Great Seal
Patent Office on the 7th August 1858.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, EDWARD
READER and JOHN DEWICK, both of Finkhill Street, in the Town and County
of the Town of Nottingham, Machinists, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Eighth day of February, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-eight, in the twenty-first year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto us, the
said Edward Reader and John Dewick, Her special licence that we, the said
Edward Reader and John Dewick, our executors, administrators, and assigns,
or such others as we, the said Edward Reader and John Dewick, our
executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with, and
no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the term
therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend,
within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel
Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN LACE MACHINERY

page_text: FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF VELVET LACE AND LOOPED FABRICS, AND IN THE FABRICS
MANUFACTURED BY SUCH MACHINERY," upon the condition (amongst others) that
we, the said Edward Reader and John Dewick, our executors or adminis-
trators, by an instrument in writing under our, or their, or one of their
hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the
said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and
cause the same. to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar
months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that we, the said Edward Reader and John Dewick,
do hereby declare the nature of our said Invention, and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in
and by the following statement, reference being had to the three Sheets of
Drawings hereunto annexed, and to the letters and figures marked thereon
(that is to say):
'
Our Invention relates to improvements in bobbin net lace machinery for the
manufacture of ornamental fabrics,. in which the groundwork of the fabric is in
the form of lace or fabric such as produced in those lace machines, while the
loop or pile forming the ornament is produced on the surface to represent a
flower or other design, according to pattern which may transverse the fabric
in any direction. The groundwork of the fabric, where it remains uncovered
by the loops or pile, according to our Invention, and as made by our improved
machinery, is an open lace pattern, in which the warp and loop or pile threads
are collected and bound together by the bobbin or weft thread into longitudinal
pillars or cords connected together at intervals by the weft, according to the
size of the mesh required.
Our apparatus also forms an open or network fabric, in which the looping
may be purled all round the mesh or opening throughout the fabric, or in
parts only, as required.
According to our. Invention we employ guide bars for the warp threads and
for the loop threads, arranged and controlled in a particular manner in com-
bination with stump bars. For the warp or groundwork of the fabric we
employ four guide bars, and either one or two guide bars for the introduction
of the loop or pile threads, which are placed between the warp and stump
bars, they being arranged three on either side. Each triplet consists of one
outside and one inside guide bar, with a stump bar between the two. The
arms carrying the eyes of the inside bars are bent nearly at right angles
towards each other, leaving sufficient space for a thread to pass up between
the opposite eyes. The stump bars are bent in the same direction above the
bent-armis of the guide eyes: The guide bar conducting the material to form

page_text: the loop or pile is of the ordinary form, but is mounted on a fulcrum, so as to
oscillate from side to side towards and from the other guide bars; the eyes of
this guide bar are on a lower level than the bent guide eyes conducting the
warp threads, so that when the loop thread bar is oscillated the eyes pass close
under the bent guide eyes; the loop threads then passing up between the bent
arms of such eyes, are in a position to be acted on by the stump bar, which
shoggs or moves the loop threads so as to form the shed, at which time a loop
is taken up. The other parts of the machine having performed their office,
the loop bar then oscillates to the centre, when another loop is taken up; in
this instance the shed is opened by the shogging of the oscillating bar itself;
the other motions of the machine being complete, the loop bar then oscillates
under the bent arms of the warp guide bar on its other side, when a stump
bar acts upon the thread, as before explained with reference to the opposite
side, these several loops being all worked in and secured by the weft and the
warp threads of the four guide bars before mentioned.
In some instances we introduce two oscillating loop guide bars between the
stump and guide bars, in which case the oscillating bars only oscillate half the
distance described with reference to the single oscillating bar, that is to say,
from one side to the centre. In this case there are two loops being taken up
at the same time, one with the loop thread in the centre, and another from the
thread shogged by one or other of the stump bars. By this means we are
enabled to introduce a great amount of loop or pile surface with four warp
threads to form the ground, and it is the peculiar combination and arrange-
ment of the guide bars which constitutes a novelty in this part of our
Invention.
Instead of using four ground thread bars, we sometimes omit the front and
back thread bars, and use only the three middle guide bars, that is, the middle
oscillating bar, together with the thread bars immediately next it, in which
case we introduce much more of the loop or pile thread in proportion to the
ground thread.
Another part of our Invention relates to the means of taking up the loop-to
form the looped or pile surface, which we-effect by the use of bent instruments
actuated and controlled as herein-after described. These instruments are placed
immediately above the front points. The motion of these hooked instruments is
somewhat similar to that of the points, being mounted on a bar termed an
extra point bar. When the shed of a loop thread is opened these instruments
descend and take up the loops, and draw them out of any required length,
where they are held until the motions of the machine cause the points to
follow in succession to gather up the sheds and weft thread thrown in subse-

page_text: quently, which secure the loops so taken up, when the points on the loop side
of the fabric descend, the loop instruments follow immediately & leave the
loops so taken up, and descend to repeat the operation, and so on. Having
completed the ornament or pattern, a part of the groundwork may then be
left uncovered by the loops, in which case we form open lacework, as herein-
before mentioned.
-In order that the ornamental, looped, or pile pattern surface may be produced
at one part of the breadth of the fabric while the uncovered groundwork is
being produced at another part simultaneously, we impart the same motion
continuously to all the guide and stump bars, and we counteract the motion
so given to the warp and loop threads when required by introducing jacks, by
means of jacquard apparatus, as well understood in lace weaving by such
machinery, which jacks stop the opening of the sheds as may be required, and
produce the ornamental pattern and open lacework, herein-before mentioned,
simultaneously.
By these several means we are enabled to produce velvet, lace, or fabrics
ornamented with raised, looped, or pile surfaces, or purled meshes similar in
design to any now carried out in lace making.
The looped surfaces may be afterwards sheared or cut and finished on the
face, as well understood in finishing pile fabrics.
DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS.
Figures 1 and 2, Sheets A and B, represent transverse sections of a lace-
making machine, shewing as many of the parts as are necessary for explaining
our Invention. Figure 1 shews the arrangement of parts for forming a loop or
pile on the surface of the lace, which I will first explain, many of the ordinary
parts of the lace machine being oniitted in this Figure. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, and 7
represent the arrangement of thread and stump bars, which are mounted on
brackets A, as usual, and shown on an enlarged scale at Figure 3; 1, 3, 5, and 7
are the ground thread bars; 2 and 6, the stump bars; and 4, the loop or pile
thread bar. This latter bar 4 is the oscillating bar, which is mounted on a
shaft a, fitted in bearings attached to the brackets A. This bar is oscillated,
and assumes the different positions shown dotted, by motion communicated to
the arm c, fixed on shaft a from a cam d, which actuates the bar 4 at every
fourth motion of the machine. This action is communicated by means of a
clawker e, connected to one of the levers of the cradle shaft, which clawker
takes into a ratchet wheel f, with twelve teeth fixed on shaft of cam d. The
action will be readily understood by examining the Drawing; the truck e
actuating c, falls twice in the revolution of d, which oscillates bar 4 from one

page_text: side to the central position, and from such position to opposite side; the truck
then rises over' the rise of cam d, which returns the oscillating bar to its
original position at
The parts for actuating the loop instruments are represented in red outline
in Figure 1. This is also the case in Figure 2, which indicates the relative
positions with the ordinary gear of the points, each being there represented
in different colors. 9, 9, are the ground threads, while the red line h repre-
sents the loop thread; i, i, is the work passing over the lace bar to the work
beam. F, P, is the front point bar, and B, P, the back point bar, and E, P,
the extra point or loop instrument bar. The points work as in ordinary to
gather up the sheds opened in the warp, while the action of the extra point
or loop instrument is this. When a shed is opened by the shogging of the
thread bars, the shogging of the ground thread ġ, g, is always in the opposite
direction to that of the loop thread. The front points descend with the loop
instruments immediately following, in which order they enter the shed. The
rise of the front points and loop instruments then takes place, the motion of
the latter being a little in advance of the points; before arriving at their
highest elevation the loop instruments withdraw from the shed just sufficient
to clear the ground threads, bringing with them the loop threads. The points
following retain the shed, while the back points are withdrawn as usual. At
the higest rise of the extra point bar E, P, a projecting piece k, fixed thereto,
comes in contact with a fixed incline 7, which withdraws the loop instrument
from the work and draws out the loop, the .requisite length, where it remains
until the succeeding sheds and crossings have been gathered up by the points
in the usual manner. By regulating the incline, to throw back the extra point
bar more or less, so will the loops be drawn out more or less from the face of
the fabric. It will be observed, that the extra point bar does not descend
at each time with the front points, but only at every second, fourth, sixth, or
other even number of motions required. The cams placed on the back cam
shaft for effecting and.controlling the motion of the extra point or instrument.
bar are separately shown in Sheet A, in connection with which other gear
works. This other gear referred to is shewn separately in Sheet C. D is the
cam for the rising. and falling motion of the extra point bar; E, the cam for
the forward and backward. motions, while E is a plain surface, on-which the
truck of lever G runs during the time the extra point bar remains up. Figure 4
represents a back view of the back cam shaft with the cams D, E, and F, thereon;
Figure 5 an end view; and Figure 6, a plan of the same, while Figure 7
represents a front view of the parts in connecting therewith for holding up the
extra point bar. The lever for effecting the rising motion is not shown in this

page_text: Figure, being the same as usual for actuating point bars, as seen in Fig. 1.
The lever G is mounted on a stud H, on which it is free to slide; at the same
time it is constantly pulled against a stop'm by a spring n.
This spring
always keeps the truck of lever G opposite to the periphery of the plain cam
or disc F (except when otherwise controlled), and is the case when the extra
point. bar remains up. When it is desired to bring the extra point bar down,
the lever G is shogged to bring its truck O opposite cam E, which is effected
as follows:-I is a double cam surface, fixed on the back cam shalft, which
shogs the bar K from right to left twice in every revolution of that shaft,
the bar K being fitted in suitable guides p, p, and furnished with a truck for
contact with the cam surfaces against which it is constantly pulled by the
spring. The bar K carries a catch r projecting below, which at the proper
time comes in contact with a latch lever s, and thrusts the lever G, and truck
O from the position shown to its position opposite to cam E, as shown dotted.
The latch levers is mounted on a bracket fixed to lever G, and moves in a guide
slot t, also fixed to G. A rod u'connects the latch lever with lever v, which
oscillates on a fixed fulcrum at w. The other end of this lever is connected
by..
a.cord
Y,
which passes over a pulley and up to a needle of the ordinary
jacquard apparatus, which needle is selected by the pattern card so as to lift
the latch levers and oppose it to the shogging motion of bar K at the proper
times for giving motion to the extra point bar, that is to say, at the second,
fourth, sixth, or other motion, as before mentioned.
The lever G in its shogging motion from right to left (as seen in Figure 4),
also take effect on the back end of a horizontal lever 1 (see Figure 6), the
other end of which is towards the front of the machine; it is mounted on a
fixed fulcrum, and the front end' engages in a pendant catch, bar M (see
Figure 7). When the truck O of lever G is on F, the catch bar M is in the
dotted position shewn at Figure 7, and consequently in position to hold up
thé extra point bar E, P, by taking hold of bracket Q, which is fixed to one
of the arms carrying that bar. This bracket slips into the catch notch,
formed in M. The catch bar M has a constant tendency to assume the
position shown dotted by reason of the tension of spring R acting thereon.
When the extra point bar is held up, the truck rollers are simply held from
or prevented falling into the cams, which they would otherwise do by reason
of the force of the said springs, as well understood. The other truck rollers
represented in the Drawings are held up to their cam surfaces in the same
manner, although not so represented, but as well understood in lace machines.
The loop instruments having been held up during two or other even number
of motions, retain the loops thereon, and in descending leave them to take

page_text: up the next loops in succession. It will be observed, that the loop instru-
ments which are separately represented at Figure 8 are only slightly bent at
an angle, so as just to retain hold of the loop threads, and at same time be
free to leave the loops in descending. By this means loops. are free to be
taken up at every second, fourth, sixth, or other even number of motions
by the descending of the loop instruments at those times to take up and form
the loops. Besides stopping the formation of loops by suspending the opera-
tion of the instruments for a number of motions, as described, we also suspend
the formation thereof while the. motions of the loop instruments continue.
This we effect by stopping off the loop threads by means of jacks, acted on
in the ordinary way, which jacks enter and stop the shogging of the loops and
tie threads, as before mentioned, and by which means we are enabled to form.
patterns or ornaments traversing the fabric in angular or other directions, or
to produce ornaments at one part of the breadth of the fabric simultaneously
with the ground or open work. unornamented or only partially, or it may be
differently ornamented at another part of its breath.
In order to prevent the loop threads being drawn back by the tension
weights, and so draw out the loops after the instruments have been withdrawn,
we introduce a thread-locking bar S, see Figure 1, similar to the oscillating
bar T, usually employed for drawing the thread from the spools V. This
locking bar S is so actuated that its slot, through which the threads pass,
shall stand across, as represented in the Drawing, at the time the loop instru-
ments leave the loops, and until they are about to draw out the succeeding
loops. Thus, supposing the loops are formed at every fourth motion, the
locking bar slot stands across, as represented, during three motions, and
remains open (that, as in the vertical direction) during one motion. At the time
the locking bar S is open, the locking bar T stands closed one motion, while
during the three succeeding motions (that is, while the locking bar S is closed)
it oscillates as usual, the driving gear thereof being suitably arranged for that
purpose. The motion is communicated to locking bar S by a lever V, carry-
ing a truck at one end, bearing on a cam W, seen dotted and fixed on the
same shaft with cam d. The opposite end of lever V is connected with a
crank arm fixed on the axis of S; the fulcrum of V being at Y the action will
be readily understood from the Drawing. The locking bar T may be actuated
by a cam and lever in a similar manner by a cam furnished with the requisite
number of falls properly disposed, and which would in fact be the opposite-of
cam W..
The other and ordinary parts of the machine are indicated on the Drawing,
and will be readily understood in connection with our improvements.. Instead of

page_text: oscillating the loop thread bar 4 to three places in the thread bars,as represented,
it may assume two positions only, say from its position nearest the front to
the middle and back again, or it may be from its position nearest the back to
the centre; a cut of cam wheels is shown for the former motion at Figure 9.
The cut of cam wheels are for shogging the loop and warp thread bars, as well
understood, and may be used as a cut of wheels for the purled hole.
In Figure 2, Sheet B, we have represented our improvements as applied to
making loops or purling in a meshed or open work fabric, for which purpose
we prefer to use simply an extra point bar and front points, which are grooved
on the upper side, as shewn in Figure 10, which shows them in plan and in
cross section, on an enlarged scale. The object of grooving the ordinary
points is this, that when the extra points descend, their extreme ends are
received in the grooves which guide them into the sheds, the front points entering
first therein, the back points may be similarly grooved or they may be as usual.
In Figure 2, as before mentioned, the gear for working the different point
bars is in different colors, that of the extra point bar being in red as before.
The plain surface cam F; on which the truck of lever G runs, is precisely the
same as before, while the cam N for withdrawing the extra points is furnished
with two risers, the falls or lower parts being of the same diameter as F, as
will be seen by the separate views of the same; a separate view is also shown
of the rising and falling cam Z. The action of the extra point bar is this,
when it descends the truck of lever G is on one of the risers of cam N,
the extra points having descended, the truck falls from the riser and the points
enter the sheds and rise a little in advance of the ordinary points inside of the
purl thread represented red, while the truck o of lever G is in the fall of N,
it is shogged to the plain cam F by the tension of its spring, (being released
by the pressure of the rod K, (Sheet C,) as before explained,) where it remains
until the jacquard apparatus again causes the thread of lever v to lift latch lever
s, as before explained. During the time the truck of lever G is on the plain
cam F, the point bar is held up by catch M, also as before explained, during
which time the extra points are allowed to remain in the loops and thereby
keep an open loop or purl inside the mesh of the net, while the manufacture
of the fabric continues. The extra points remain in the loop at least one
motion; but we prefer that the extra points should remain in two, three or
four motions. The extra-points are withdrawn from the fabric by the thread
of lever v, (Figure 4,) being again selected by the jacquard apparatus to lift the
latch levers; this, as will be understood from the foregoing description, shoggs
the lever G, with its truck opposite cam N, one of the rises of which imme-

page_text: diately take effect upon it, at the same time the extra point bar E, P, is
released from catch M, and descends & enters the points to take up the
succeeding loops, and the operation is repeated.
The cam N is represented with two risers, in order that the extra point bar
may be withdrawn from the work during the next one, two, three, or other
number of motions, while at the same time the extra point bar remains up
during four, six, eight, or other even number of motions of the lace machine.
Figure 11 represents a diagram of the open lacework, having the meshes
purled, and for which Figure 12 represents the cut of cam wheels for actuating
the thread bars. In this case a double oscillating bar is used, as shown at
Figure 13, in which the red lines show the loop threads, and the black lines
the ground threads, which correspond with the red and black circles of the
cut of wheels, Figure 12.
This arrangement, in addition to purling the meshes, also forms loops or pile
on the pillar of the fabric.
Figure 14 represents patterns of fabric having loop or velvet pile ornamenta-
tion thereon, as produced by the machine with reference to Figure 1; the
squares J, J, being the raised loop or pile, and formed during the time of
forming the open lacework J¹, which are the parts in which the loop and
ground threads are stopped off by the jacks, to form the pillar meshes;
Figure 9 represents the cut of wheels to form this fabric.
Figure 15 represents a flower as the velvet pile or loop ornament, which is
formed by the stopping off the loop and pile threads by the jacks, and forming
the pillar between such ornaments; in addition to the flower, the mesh may be
purled 'as shown.
Figure 16 represents a cut of wheels whereby this may be effected; in this
case the bent loop instruments are used as the extra points to form such loops
or purling, which they will effect if not too much bent; at the same time for
fabrics to be purled only, we prefer the straight points before mentioned for
that purpose.
Figure 17 represents a cut of wheels in which the oscillating bar 4 merely
moves from its forward position to the middle, and in which the front and
back warp bars 1 and 7 are omitted, as also the back stump-bar 6.
Having described the nature of our Invention, and the manner of performing
the same, we wish it to be understood that we claim as of our Invention, and
desire to protect by the herein-before in part recited Letters Patent,―
First, we claim the oscillating thread bar combined and acting with other
thread and stump bars, as herein-before described, in the manufacture of lace

page_text: fabrics having raised loops or velvet pile; we also claim the oscillating bar
combined and acting with other thread and stump bars for purling or looping
round the holes or meshes in lace fabrics, as herein-before described.
Secondly, we claim the combination of parts herein-before described, whereby
the taking up and forming raised loops or velvet pile on lace fabrics is effected
in lace machines as described; we also claim the combination of parts
berein-before described, whereby the looping or purling inside the holes or
meshes in lace fabrics, is effected in lace machines as described.
Thirdly, we claim the application of the jacks for stopping off or preventing
the shogging of the loop thread or threads, introduced by an oscillating bar,
and the ground threads, at one part of the fabric to form pillar meshes or open
work, while the pile or ornament is being simultaneously produced at another
part of the fabric, as herein-before described. We also claim the manufacture
of loop or pile fabrics produced by such means.
In witness whereof, we, the said Edward Reader and John Dewick,
have hereunto set our hands and seals, this Third day of August, in
the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-eight.