IMPROVEMENTS IN FANCY WEAVING
Year: 1872

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to John Farran, of Bolton, in the County of
Lancaster, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN FANCY WEAVING."
Scaled the 10th September 1872, and dated the 18th March 1872.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said John Farran at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
18th March 1872.
I, JOHN FARRAN, of Bolton, in the County of Lancaster, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN FANCY
WEAVING," to be as follows:-
The object of this Invention is to weave by means of the loom
power
a fabric having spaced stripes alternately of a figured pattern and of a
velvet pile. I weave the said fabric by means of a power loom provided
with an ordinary index or jacquard apparatus with single or double lift,
the cards of the latter being perforated in such a way as to weave a
fabric having longitudinal fancy stripes alternating with stripes of
velvet. The ground of the fancy stripe will be a rep or terry, and the

page_text: figured pattern caused by floating, but if a plain ground is desired it
may be obtained by floating the weft yarn at the back of the ground
parts.
The velvet stripes are woven in any ordinary way of weaving velvet,
and the pile is subsequently cut in the usual manner.
66
If plain cloth (that is, cloth all of one color) is required, I only.
employ one yarn beam and one shuttle, but if a colored pattern is desired
then I employ two or more yarn beams or two or more shuttles worked
by drop boxes "
or other similar contrivance, according to whether
the varied parts of the pattern are to be produced from the warp or from
the weft. The cloth may be all woven of one material (cotton, wool,
silk, linen, or other suitable fibre), or it may be made from two or more
materials, for instance, it may have a cotton warp and a silk weft, in
which case the velvet stripe will have a silk pile. The part of the warp
which forms the face of the stripe may also be of silk if preferred, or it
may be varied in any other suitable manner so long as the peculiar
feature of my Invention is retained, viz., weaving alternate stripes of
velvet pile spaced with stripes of a fancy pattern in a power loom, in
the manner herein-before described.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said John Farran in the Great Scal Patent Office on
the 18th September 1872.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JOHN
FARRAN, of Bolton, in the County of Lancaster, send greeting.
1
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Eighteenth day of March, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-two, in the thirty-fifth
year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and
grant unto me, the said John Farran, Her special license that I, the
said John Farran, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such
others as I, the said John Farran, my executors, administrators, and
assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time
and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should
and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United

page_text: Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle
of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN FANCY WEAVING," upon
the condition (amongst others) that I, the said John Farran, my
executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my,
or their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and
ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same
was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal
Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately after
the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said John Farran, do hereby declare the
nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement, and on reference to the accompanying diagrams:-
The object of this Invention is to weave by means of the power loom
a fabric having spaced stripes alternately of a figured pattern and of a
velvet pile. I weave the said fabric by means of a power loom provided
with an ordinary index or jacquard apparatus with single or double lift,
the cards of the latter being perforated in such a way as to weave a
fabric having longitudinal fancy stripes alternating with stripes of velvet.
The ground of the fancy stripe will be a rep or terry, and the figured
pattern caused by floating, but if a plain ground is desired it may be
obtained by floating the weft yarn at the back of the ground parts.
The velvet stripes are woven in any ordinary way of weaving velvet,
and the pile is subsequently cut in the usual manner.
"
If plain cloth (that is, cloth all of one color) is required, I only
employ one yarn beam and one shuttle, but if a colored pattern is
desired then I employ two or more yarn beams or two or more shuttles
worked by "drop boxes or other similar contrivance, according to
whether the varied parts of the pattern are to be produced from the
warp or from the weft. The cloth may be all woven of one material,
cotton, wool, silk, linen, or other suitable fibre, or it may be made from
two or more materials, for instance, it may have a cotton warp and a
silk weft, in which case the velvet stripe will have a silk pile.
of the warp which forms the face of the stripe may also be
preferred, or it may be varied in any other suitable manner so long as
the peculiar feature of my Invention is retained, viz., weaving alternate
stripes of velvet pile spaced with stripes of a fancy pattern in a power
loom, in the manner herein-before described.
The part
of silk if

page_text: Such being the nature and object of my said Invention, I will now
proceed to describe in detail the method of weaving in a power loom a
piece of cloth having alternate stripes of velvet pile and a simple fancy
pattern, and it will be evident to any practical weaver on examining the
annexed diagram (which I give by way of example merely), that any 5
other fancy pattern can be woven on the same principle by perforating
the cards accordingly.
In the annexed diagram each horizontal line represents one card, and
Supposing
cach perpendicular line one hook of the jacquard machine.
the machine to have 400 hooks, then the width would be divided as 1
follows 72 hooks velvet pile, 62 figure, 71 pile, 62 figure, 71 pile,
62 figure, and so
on 8 hooks and
on. The velvet pile is woven
ten cards as seen at the left hand side of the diagram, the stripe being
the width of 72 hooks; the two last hooks at a, a, on the right being
for binding threads so as to enable the velvet pile to be cut close up to
the edge. The fancy stripe requires 62 hooks and 120 cards. At the
right of this stripe are again two binding threads b, b, and then a stripe
of velvet pile as before, and so on, across the piece. The velvet pile
stripe may be woven in any other manner as ordinarily practised, and
any width of velvet stripe and any width and pattern of fancy stripe may
be woven upon the same principle.
A method of weaving tabby velvet on six or twelve hooks and eight
cards is shown at A, and another method of weaving on 10 hooks and
12 cards is shown at B.
Having now described the nature and object of my said Invention
together with the manner in which the same is to be or may be per-
formed or carried into practical effect, I wish it to be understood that I
claim as my Invention weaving alternate stripes of velvet pile spaced
with stripes of a fancy pattern in a power loom by means of the index or
jacquard machine, substantially in the manner herein-before described
and illustrated by the diagram annexed.
In witness whereof, I, the said John Farran, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Fourteenth day of September, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-two.