Improvements in the Manufacture of Fabrics in Twist Lace Machines.
Year: 1887

page_text: Improvements in the Manufacture of Fabrics in Twist Lace
Machines.
I, GEORGE SOAR, of Lucknow Road, Nottingham, manufacturer, do hereby
declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:
The improvements relate to twist lace machines and consist of a mode of manu-
facturing fabrics thereon, such as lace, ribbons, piece goods of various kinds, and other
fabrics, whereby a new and peculiar effect or result may be produced therein upon
the class of machinery named, which has hitherto not been attained thereby.
To accomplish this and to effect my improvements, I arrange the warp or ground
threads indicated by the ☐ marks in sections, as will be understood by reference to the
accompanying drawings a portion thereof being drawn into or through bars or guides
represented by the lines a, a, at the back, and a portion thereof being drawn into or
through bars or guides a¹ a¹ at the front of special thick or other operative threads,
which latter are thus drawn in or through bars or guides represented by the lines b, b
placed between the front and back portions of the warp or ground threads a a & a¹ a¹,
or the warp or ground threads may be divided into three or more sections according
to the density of the fabric or the number of fancy or special threads required, as for
example in Figs. 2, 3 & 4; the special threads taking positions between the warp or
ground threads, and are actuated by means of the jacquard or substitute therefor in a
special and peculiar manner to be herein described.
The number of warps or ground threads in a "gait" or "wale," as represented
by the spaces between the lines c, c, may be one, two, or more, according to the nature
of the cloth or fabric required to be produced, and the division of such ground or
warp thread into front and back sections may be equal or unequal, one and one,
two and two, three and three, three and two, three and four, or any other and
arbitrary divisions which may be desired according to the design required to be
produced some few examples only of which are shewn in the drawings. And the
threads may be arranged as warps alone, warps and corders, or with right or
reverse twist or both combined, which latter is the case in the production of what is
known as "platt" ground or fining."
:

page_text: "
The special thick or other operative threads are actuated at the points of junction of
the back and front sections of warp or ground threads; and the actuation consists in
allowing the same to remain in a "gait" or wale," which contains a front warp
thread or threads, for one or any number of motions, in positions relatively indicated
by the black spots, and then causing the same to lie in its adjacent "gait" or
" wale,"
which contains a back warp thread or threads, for one or other number of motions, in
positions relatively indicated by the X marks, or vice versa. The effect of this operation
is to cause such thick or other operative threads to appear or float first on one side or
face of the fabric, and then on the other side or face of the fabric lengthwise thereof, as
illustrated by figs. 9 and 10, the latter of which is a sectional illustration, at the will
of the designer, and constitutes a means of ornamentation at once novel and effective
for the class of machinery herein referred to, and which has hitherto only been
produced by means of weaving looms. Any number of these thick or other operative
threads or bars or guide soperating the same may be employed for the production
of design, and more than one may be employed in a "gait" or "wale," and fabrics
may be either wholly ornamented with these floated or stitching threads, or may be
interspersed or combined with other threads, or ordinary lace, or other fabrics, or
means of producing ornamentation thereon.
By arranging the back and front sections of warps in groups of "gaits" or
wales,"
in lieu of one and one, as for example as shewn in Figs. 5, 6, & 7, the thick or other
operative threads may be passed crosswise, or diagonally, or otherwise of the fabric in
like manner,
that is to say, by alternately appearing or floating first on one side or
face, and then on the other, and the several directions may be combined.
In changing a thread from one "gait" or "wale" to another so as to pass it from
back to front of the fabric, or vice versa, the two operations may be effected at corre-
sponding positions of the "bobbin threads," that is at the front or back; or the two
operations may be effected at contrary positions, according as it is desired to allow the
thread to pass from one side to the other, with or without twisting round a hobbin
thread; and, if desirable, such thick or other operative threads, or a portion of them,
may be more or less twisted into the fabric on one or both sides, especially where the
lengths of floated threads are great.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed, 1 declare that what I claim is
1. The arranging of warp or ground threads in twist lace machines in sections or
groupings of one or more "gaits" or "wales" of threads alternately at the front and
back, with thick or other operative threads between them, and actuating such thick or
other operative threads for the purpose of causing them to appear or float first on one
side or face of the fabric, and then on the other, lengthwise of the fabric, producing
ornamentation thereof in manner substantially as herein shewn & described.
2. The manufacture by means of twist lace machinery, of lace or other fabrics, or
combinations of such, baving thick or other operative threads passed from back to
front alternately and floated thereon for the purpose of pattern or ornamentation
thereof, whether such thick or other operative threads are floated lengthwise of the
piece or fabric only, or in combination with threads in other directions, in manner
substantially as herein shewn & described.
Dated this 25th day of June 1887