IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF TEXTILE FABRICS, AND IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR EFFECTING THE SAME, PARTS OF WHICH IMPROVEMENTS ARE ALSO APPLICABLE TO PRINTING AND EMBOSSING GENERALLY
Year: 1852

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Green, of Islington, in the County of
Middlesex, Engineer, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE
MANUFACTURE OF TEXTILE FABRICS, AND IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS
FOR EFFECTING THE SAME, PARTS OF WHICH IMPROVEMENTS ARE ALSO
APPLICABLE TO PRINTING AND EMBOSSING GENERALLY."
Sealed the 11th May 1858, and dated the 20th November 1852.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left' by the said William Green at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on
the 20th November 1852.
I, WILLIAM GREEN, do hereby declare the nature of the said In-
vention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF TEXTILE FABRICS,
AND IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR EFFECTING THE SAME, PARTS OF
WHICH IMPROVEMENTS ARE ALSO APPLICABLE TO PRINTING AND EMBOSSING
GENERALLY," to, be as follows:-
Ac-
My Invention consists, firstly, in novel methods of producing silky
or glossy effects upon fabrics manufactured of textile materials.
cording to one plan I weave a mixed fabric consisting of silk and
cotton, or of silk and another suitable material of more compressibility
than silk; but instead of combining the threads of the different ma-
terials as usual, I so regulate the throwing of the weft or the arrange-

page_text: ment of the warp that two or more threads of the same material shall
lie together; thus, for example, instead of arranging alternate threads
of silk and cotton, I cause two or more threads of the former to be
deposited for one shed of the warp, and two or more of the latter for
the next shed; or I combine the materials in other ways, so as to obtain
a fabric at one portion of which there is more of one material than at
another portion thereof. I then stamp, emboss, or print the fabric so
made, or the cotton or other inferior portions only, by which operation
the more compressible material will be forced downwards, and the more
elastic, as silk, occupy a prominent appearance on the surface. According
to another method of obtaining silky or glossy surfaces, I take yarns of
cotton or other material, and apply to them, by means of any suitable
adhesive substance, small filaments of silk, feathers, asbestos, metallic
powders, or other substances capable of imparting the required glossy
appearance; these yarns I then weave in any ordinary manner, either
by themselves or in combination with other materials; or instead of
treating the yarns as above, I weave cloth of any suitable materials,
and apply the filaments of silk, feathers, asbestos upon the manufac-
tured fabric or other substance, and if metallic powders be used, they
are to be mixed with stains or dyes. The goods manufactured by the
above processes may be stamped, embossed, or printed by any suitable
machinery; my improved machinery, however, will be found preferable
in many cases; it is as follows:-The machine operates by flat pressure
upon one, two, or more blocks, which may be arranged for printing and
embossing, or for embossing or printing ouly; if for the former, then
the colors may be supplied to them from reservoirs placed beneath by
capillary attraction or otherwise. The blocks are arranged for printing
two or more colors at one pressure; in order to effect which they are
divided into as many portions of the pattern, each portion being pro-
vided with a separate reservoir or other source from which color may
be received. Beneath or above the blocks are placed patterns which
are caused to rise or fall at suitable times, so as to effect the required
pressure by means of wedges thrust forward by crank or other apparatus
connected to the rotatory portions of the machine. The goods are
conveyed at intervals, opposite to the several blocks, by means of tapes
passing over rollers at either side of the machine, and through which

page_text: rollers the goods also pass, each perfect revolution of the said rollers
carrying forward a length of fabric corresponding to the design to be
printed or embossed at each rising or falling of the plattens. The tapes
may, if desired, be provided with projecting points, so as to prevent a
slipping of the goods from a correct register. In this manner the
fabric is conveyed onward, pausing at regular intervals to receive the
required printing or embossing from the several blocks.
In conjunction with the above apparatus, or with an ordinary printing
machine, I employ, when desired, an embossing cylinder working against
a paper or other suitable bowl, which by acting with various degrees of
pressure, the several colors, especially when moist, become variously
diffused, and peculiar effects are produced. When the printing blocks
are fed by rollers, and embossing is at the same time carried on, in
which operation heat is required, I form the rollers of skins treated with
tannin matter, whereby a sufficiently soft surface is obtained, which
will resist the action of the heat employed.
Further, my Invention consists in the employment of the machinery
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said William Green in the Great Seal Patent Office,
on the 20th May 1853.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I,
WILLIAM GREEN, of Islington, in the County of Middlesex, Engineer,
send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Twentieth day of November, in the
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-two, in the six-
teenth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give
and grant unto me, the said William Green, Her special licence that
J, the said William Green, my executors, administrators, and assigns,
or such others as I, the said William Green, my executors, administra-
tors, and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from
time to time and at all times thereafter during the term therein ex-
pressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend,

page_text: within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel
Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE
MANUFACTURE OP. TEXTILE FABRICS, AND IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR
EFFECTING THE SAME, PARTS OF WHICH IMPROVEMENTS ARE APPLICABLE TO
PRINTING AND EMBOSSING GENERALLY," upon the condition (amongst
others) that I, the said William Green, by an instrument in writing
under my hand and seal, should particularly describe and ascertain the
nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be
performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent.
Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the date
of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that. I, the said William Green, do hereby declare.
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and. ascertained in and by the
following statement thereof (that is to say)
.
My said Invention of improvements in the manufacture of textile
fabrics, and in machinery or apparatus for effecting the same, parts of
which improveinents are also applicable to printing and embossing
generally, consists,―
First, in producing silky or glossy effects upon fabrics manufactured
of textile materials by treating such materials, either before or after
being woven, as herein-after described;
Secondly, in machinery or apparatus for producing glossy or silky
effects on textile materials; and,
.
Thirdly, in the application of such machinery or parts thereof to
printing and embossing generally.
First, with regard to my Invention of producing silky or glossy
effects upon fabrics manufactured of textile materials.
The object
of this first part of my Invention, a fictitious lustre or covering to
inferior materials, such as cotton, either by treating such materials
when combined with silk, or preparatory to the weaving operation.
According to one plan I weave a mixed fabric, consisting of silk and
cotton, or of silk and another suitable material of more compressibility
than silk; but instead of combining them side by side, as is usual when
a warp is set up consisting partly of silk and partly of cotton, I so
regulate the throwing of the weft or the arrangement of the warp

page_text: that two or more threads of the same material shall lie together.; thus;"
for example, instead of arranging alternate threads of silk and cotton
I cause two or more threads of the former to be deposited for one
shed of the warp, and two or more of the latter for the next shed; or.
I combine the materials in other ways, so as to obtain a fabric at one
portion of which there is more of one material than at another portion
thereof. I then stamp, emboss, or print the fabric so made, or the
cotton or other inferior portions only, with a diagonal line or other
suitable pattern, by which operation the more compressible material
will be brightened or forced downwards, and the more elastic, as silk,
occupy a prominent appearance on the surface.
According to another mode of obtaining silky or glossy surfaces, I take
yarns of cotton or other material, and apply to them, by means of any
suitable adhesive substance, small filaments of silk, feathers, asbestos,
metallic powder, or other substances capable of imparting the required
glossy appearance.
.
When bronzed or other metallic powders are used to produce a
silky or glossy effect on textile materials, it is desirable to obtain
such effects with as small a quantity of such powder as possible.
I therefore set up the yarn on a suitable roller, from which it is
passed off on to another roller previous to being worked in the loom.
During the passage of the yarn from one yard to another, one side of
the various threads are brought in contact with a third roller, the
surface of which is charged with japanner's gold size or other suitable
adhesive matter, by which means one side only of such threads will
become coated with the aforesaid adhesive matters; the threads are
then brought in contact with another roller the surface of which is
charged with metallic powder, which will be taken up upon such roller
by its merely revolving in a shallow box, partly filled therewith; the
adhesive matter on one side of the threads will thus take up the powder
applied thereto, and may afterwards be woven into such fabrics as are
desired. When filaments of silk are used for this purpose I take
"silk waste," and submit it to the action of a carding engine or flock-
ing machine, or other similar apparatus, whereby it is so disentangled
and broken as to form a thin fleecy sliver, which sheet of sliver, as it
passes from the carding engine or from another suitable roller, is

page_text: brought in contact with and made to press against a series of threads
of a similar width arranged on another roller, which threads are covered
with Canada balsam or other adhesive matter; or two sheets of sliver
may be used, one on either side of the series of threads; they are then
separated by means of cutters suitably arranged on the carding engine
or other apparatus employed for affixing the sliver to the threads, or by
any other convenient means, after which they may receive a slight twist
by the ordinary spinning or twisting machinery, or they may be rounded
by being drawn over rollers or blocks on the surface of which a series
of grooves are formed. The threads may then be woven either alone or
in connexion with other materials. Or, instead of affixing the sliver to
threads as before described, the desired glossy or silky effect may be
produced by affixing it to a woven fabric previously coated with adheasive
Other
matter, either to a given pattern, or over the entire surface.
similar glossy fibrous materials, as feathers, asbestos, hair, or wool,
may be employed in lieu of "silk waste" if desired.
Secondly, with regard to my Invention of machinery for producing
glossy or silky effects on textile materials. The machine for this
purpose is represented in the annexed Sheet of Drawing, where Figure
1, is a side elevation; Figure 2, a diagram of the principal working
parts; Figure 3, a sectional plan through the line A, B, of Figure 1;
and Figure 4, a section shewing the method of supplying color or
varnish to the blocks when furnished by rollers. A, is a frame work
of cast iron; B, B, the plattens; C, a powerful lever attached to the
cranks D, D, by the connecting rods E, E, and by means of which the
wedges F, F, at each revolution of the cranks are thrust assunder
between the friction rollers G, G, and the requisite pressure imparted
to the blocks H, H. The wedges are loosely attached to the plattens
and to the central portion of the lever C, by means of pins, as shewn
in Figure 2. The blocks may be either solid or hollow; when the
latter, the face of such blocks is composed of a pervious material
through which the color or varnish will gradually pass, either by gravi-
tation or capillary attraction, according as the faces of the blocks are
up or down.
When solid blocks are used the color or varnish may be
applied by the furnishing rollers I, I, which may be of the ordinary
kind, or composed of skins or fragments of skins pressed into a mould

page_text: and afterwards treated with tanning matters; the position of these
rollers are shewn in Figure 4. Upon the spindles of the smaller
furnishing rollers threads are cut, so that a traverse motion will be
communicated to them as the blocks pass to and fro beneath. J, is a
pinion actuated by the bevilled wheels K, K, K, and working in the
rack I, for moving the blocks to and fro under the furnishing rollers,
at each rotation of the cranks. The upper and lower block carriers
are connected together by the curved piece M, so that one pinion and
rack serves to move both. The bevilled wheels K, K, are alternately
thrown in and out of gear by the lever N, which is moved by a cam on
the toothed wheel O, and acts upon friction cones P, P, at each revo-
lution of the crank shaft; when hollow blocks are used the lever N, is
to be disconnected. Q, Q, are rollers, and R, an endless band dipping
into the box S, which contains bronze, and which is transferred there-
from to the fabric or yarn by the roller T, which may be either plain
or engraved. U, is a steam cylinder, over which the material passes
after receiving an impression from the uppermost block; and V, a
steam chest for drying it after it has passed over the second or lower
block. W, is a paper bowl, and X, a copper or iron roller, which
serve the twofold purpose of advancing the material a stage at each
rotation of the cranks, and of embossing or milling it, or the printed
portions thereof only when used for embossing. I in some cases dis-
pense with shading in the printing operation, by engraving the em-
bossing roller in relief; but instead of making the face of the pattern of
a flat or level surface I round it off at certain parts; and thus, by causing
it to act with various degress of pressure, the colors become variously.
diffused, and peculiar effects are produced. Y, is a toothed wheel,
which may have teeth on one fourth or two fourths of its circum-
ferance, according as one or two impressions are to be made at each
turn of the cranks. Z, is a small toothed wheel actuated by the wheel
Y, for giving motion to the cylinder and paper bowl. The material a',
passes over the straining bars ', ', and thence over the rollers c', c',
on to the upper platten. After it has received an impression it is
advanced a stage by the roller X, and so on, till it arrives opposite to
the under block, from which time two impressions are made upon the
fabric by the blocks simultaneously. The material is wound on to the

page_text: box d by the pulleys e, e¹. Motion is, communicated to the machine
from the pulleys f, f, and from thence by the pinion g¹. The several
rollers and shafts are actuated by screws, and work in brasses in
suitable pluminer blocks, as shown in the Drawing.
Thirdly, my Invention consists in the application of the machinery
or apparatus before described to printing or embossing generally.
And now having explained the nature of my said Invention, and de-
scribed the manner in which the same is to be performed, I declare
that what I claim is,-
Firstly, producing silky or glossy effects upon textile materials, or
upon the inferior parts only thereof, by the peculiar mode of weaving
and embossing or printing herein described.
Secondly, I claim the peculiar mode herein described of covering
one side of cotton yarn or other fibrous material with metallic powder:
Thirdly, I claim covering cotton yarn or other fibrous materials with
silk waste," as herein described.
Fourthly, I claim covering cotton or other yarn with small filaments
of glossy fibrous materials, as asbestos, wool, or hair, as herein described.
Fifthly, I claim covering or partly covering cotton or other fabrics
with "slivers" or small filaments of "silk waste" or other glossy
material, as described.
Sixthly, I claim the machinery or apparatus described for producing
glossy or silk effects upon fabrics manufactured of textile materials,
and the application of the same to printing and embossing generally.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Green, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, this Twentieth day of May, in the
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-three.
Witness,
B. GOBEY,
12, Cursitor Street,
Chancery Lane.
WILLIAM GREEN. (L.s.)