IMPROVEMENTS IN SOLITAIRES, SLEEVE LINKS, SHIRT, COLLAR, AND OTHER STUDS, AND OTHER SIMILAR DRESS FASTENINGS AND ORNAMENTS.
Year: 1876

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to David Cutler, of Birmingham, in the County of
Warwick, Manufacturer, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN SOLITAIRES,
SLEEVE LINKS, SHIRT, COLLAR, AND OTHER STUDS, AND OTHER SIMILAR DRESS
FASTENINGS AND ORNAMENTS.'
"
Sealed the 6th April 1877, and dated the 7th November 1876.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said David Cutler at the Office
of the Commissioners of Patents on the 7th November 1876..
DAVID CUTLER, of Birmingham, in the County of Warwick, Manufacturer.
"IMPROVEMENTS IN SOLITAIRES, SLEEVE LINKS, SHIRT, COLLAR, AND OTHER
STUDS, AND OTHER SIMILAR DRESS FASTENINGS AND ORNAMENTS."
My Invention has reference principally to such solitaires, sleeve links, shirt,
collar, and other studs, and other similar dress fastenings and ornaments as consist
of two detachable or separable parts, and one part of my Invention consists of the
improvements herein-after described in mechanism for connecting together and dis-
connecting from one another the two parts of the said solitaires, fastenings, and
ornaments.
I will describe my Invention as applied to a solitaire :-I make the stem of the
front part of the solitaire which engages with the tubular socket of the back part of
the solitaire in halves, the halves of the divided or split stem being respectively
carried by slides pressed upon by wire or other springs. The outer ends of these
slides project through openings at opposite sides of the front part of the solitaire and
constitute pushers for releasing the fastening. Each of the halves of the stem has
a nearly semicircular figure in cross section the flat or inner faces of the half stems
working against one another. On the outer side of each half stem and near the
bottom thereof is an incline. These inclines do not face one another but are situated
on opposite sides of the half stems.
When the slit or divided stem is in its normal position the two halves are not
opposite one another. By pressure on the pushers or by pressure on the inclines the
two half stems may be made simultaneously to move in opposite directions so as to
approach the middle of the solitaire and face or come exactly opposite one another.
When in this position the slit or divided stem nearly resembles an ordinary solid
Der CJ1

page_text: stem. The back part of the solitaire is of the ordinary kind, the tubular socket of
the said back part having an internal annular shoulder near its open end.
In connecting the two parts of the solitaire together the divided or slit stem of
the front part is introduced into the tubular socket of the back part. On intro-
ducing the stem of the front part of the solitaire its inclines bear against the open
end of the socket and the halves of the stem are closed upon or brought opposite one
another by a sliding motion, and when the closed stem has been fully pushed home
the shoulders of its inclines are brought opposite the internal shoulder of the socket.
The halves of the stem now separate from one another by the action of the spring
slides, and the said shoulders of the inclines snap under or engage with the internal
shoulder of the socket. The two parts of the solitaire are thereby connected
together. To separate the two parts of the solitaire the pushers at the edge of
the front part are simultaneously pressed inwards. The inclines on the divided
stem are thereby withdrawn from the internal shoulder of the socket by the closing
of the halves of the stem when the fastening is released and the two parts of the
solitaire may be separated.
Or the following arrangement of parts may be used:-
The halves of the split or divided stem are jointed together at top and their
bottom ends are provided with arms to which the pushers or releasers are jointed.
In this arrangement the inclines on the half stems for engaging with the internal
shoulder of the socket are dispensed with, and in place thereof notches are made at
the bottoms of the halves of the stem. When in their normal position the parts of
the jointed split stem are inclined to one another, the notches being separated a
short distance. On introducing the jointed split stem into the socket the two parts
of the stem turn on their joint and their notched ends close upon one another and
afterwards open out and snap under or engage with the internal shoulder of the
socket of the back part of the solitaire.
The solitaires herein described may be modified in the following manner:-I
dispense with the pushers by which the fastening is released, and instead of making
a complete annular internal shoulder in the tubular socket of the back part I make
internal shoulders only at two opposite parts of the socket. When the divided or
split stem has been pushed home in the socket the closed parts of the stem open or
separate and engage by a snapping action directly or by a twisting motion through
a quarter of a circle with the two internal shoulders of the socket and thereby fasten
the two parts of the solitaire together.
The releasing of the two parts of the solitaire is effected by a twisting motion of
the front part through a quarter of a rotation so as to remove its inclines or notched
ends from the internal shoulders of the socket and permit the divided stem to be
withdrawn from the said socket.
This modification of my Invention is particularly applicable to collar, shirt, and
other studs, the fastening of the two parts being effected in whatever position the
front part is presented to the socket of the back part and the releasing being effected
by a twisting motion of the front part.
My Invention further consists of the following improvements in solitaires and
other like fastenings having no separable part. To the end of the flat or elliptical
hollow stem of the solitaire a flat cross bar or arm capable of a partial rotation
works. This cross arm or bar is fixed on the end of an axis passing through the
stem, the upper end of the said axis carrying a plate, to which plate two spring
slides or pushers are engaged. By the action of the spring slides or pushers upon
the plate to which the axis of the arm or bar is affixed the said arm or bar is made
to cross the flat or elliptical stem of the solitaire. By pressure upon the pushers the
said bar or arm can be made to coincide with the said stem, and in this position the
stem is introduced through the holes in the sleeve, shirt, collar, or other article.
When the stem and its bar or arm have been passed through the holes described the
pressure on the pushers is relaxed when the bar or arm resumes its normal position
by the action of the spring pushers upon it and the said bar is thereby made to cross
the holes in the sleeve or other article and thus fasten the solitaire in its place. By

page_text: pressure upon the pushers the crossing bar or arm is made to coincide with the end
of the stem when the solitaire may be removed.
My improvements are applied to sleeve links, collar, and other studs, and other
like dress fastening and ornaments substantially in the inanuer described with
respect to solitaires.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said David Cutler in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 28th April
1877.
DAVID CUTLER, of Birmingham, in the County of Warwick, Manufacturer.
"IMPROVEMENTS IN SOLITAIRES, SLEEVE LINKS, SHIRT, COLLAR, AND OTHER STUDS,
AND SIMILAR DRESS FASTENINGS AND ORNAMENTS."
My Invention has reference principally to such solitaires, sleeve links, shirt, collar
and other studs and other similar dress fastenings and ornaments as consist of two
detachable or separable parts; and one part of my Invention consists of the improve-
ments herein-after described in mechanism for connecting together and disconnecting
from one another the two parts of the said solitaires, fastenings, and ornaments.
I will describe and illustrate my Invention as applied to a solitaire :-I make the
stem of the front part of the solitaire which engages with the tubular socket of the
back part of the solitaire in halves, the halves of the divided or split stem being
respectively carried by slides pressed upon by a wire or other spring. The outer
ends of these slides project through openings at opposite sides of the front part of
the solitaire and constitute pushers for releasing the fastening. Each of the halves
of the stem has a nearly semicircular figure in cross section, the flat or inner faces of
the half stems working against one another. On the outer side of each half stem
and near the bottom thereof is an incline. These inclines do not face one another
but are situated on opposite sides of the half steins.
When the slit or divided stem is in its normal position the two halves are not
opposite one another. By pressure on the pushers or by pressure on the inclines the
two half stems may be made simultaneously to move in opposite directions so as to
approach the middle of the solitaire and face or come opposite one another. When
in this position the slit or divided stem nearly resembles an ordinary solid stem.
The back part of the solitaire is of the ordinary kind, the tubular socket of the said
back part having an internal annular shoulder near its open end with which the
shoulders of the divided parts or halves of the stem engage to fasten the two parts
of the solitaire together.
A solitaire constructed according to this part of my Invention is illustrated in
Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, and 7 of the Drawing; Figure 1 being a side elevation;
Figures 2 and 3, plans of under side; and Figure 4, a plan of upper side with the
stone removed of the front part of the solitaire; Figure 5 represents the two parts
of the solitaire connected together; and Figure 6 represents the back part of the
solitaire detached; Figure 7 represents parts of the solitaire detached.
a, b, is the divided or slit stem of the front part of the solitaire, each divided part
being connected to or made in one piece with its pusher or slide a², b², respectively.
The said slides or pushers a², 62, are acted upon by the ends of the spring c so as to
press the said pushers outwards and separate the two parts a, b, of the divided stem.
The outer ends of the slides or pushers project through openings in the opposite
sides of the case or shell d. By reference to Figures 1, 2, and 3, it will be seen
that each of the halves a, b, of the stem has a nearly semicircular figure in cross
section, the flat inner faces working against one another. When the slit or divided
stem a, b, is in its normal position as represented in Figures 1 and 2, the two
halves b, are not opposite one another, but when pressure put upon the pushers
or upon the half stems the latter move in opposite directions and face or come

page_text: opposite one another, thereby resembling an ordinary solid stem as represented in
the plan Figure 3. On the outer side of each half stem a and b is an incline a³, bs.
the base of each incline forming a shoulder. The back part of the solitaire is of the
ordinary kind, the tubular socket e having an internal annular shoulder e² near
its open end for the shoulders of the inclines a³, 63, to engage with.
In connecting the two parts of the solitaire together the divided or slit stem a, b,
of the front part is introduced into the tubular socket e of the back part. On
introducing the stem of the front part of the solitaire its inclines a³, 6s, bear against
the open end of the socket e, and the halves of the stem are closed upon or brought
opposite one another by a sliding motion, as seen in Figure 3, and when the closed
stemhas been fully pushed home the shoulders of its inclines are brought opposite
the internal shoulder e² of the socket e of the back part. The halves a, b, of the
stem now separate from one another by the action of the spring slides a², b², and
the said shoulders of the inclines snap under or engage with the internal shoulder €³
of the socket e. The two parts of the solitaire are thereby connected together as
illustrated in Figure 5. To separate the two parts of the solitaire the pushers a², b²,
at the edge of the front part are simultaneously pressed inwards. The shoulders
of the inclines a³, b³, on the divided stem a, b, are thereby withdrawn from
the internal shoulder e² of the socket e by the closing of the halves of the said
stem when the fastening is released and the two parts of the solitaire may be
separated.
My Invention consists further of the following modification or arrangement of
the parts of the solitaire :-The halves of the split or divided stem are jointed
together at top, and their bottom ends are provided with arms to which the pushers
or releasers are jointed. In this arrangement the inclines on the balf stems for
engaging with the internal shoulder of the socket are dispensed with, and in place
thereof notches are made at the bottoms of the halves of the stem. When in their
normal position the parts of the jointed split stem are inclined to one another, the
notches being separated a short distance. On introducing the jointed split stem
into the socket the two parts of the stem turn on their joint and their notched ends
close upon one another, and afterwards open out and snap under or engage with
the internal shoulder of the socket of the back part of the solitaire.
This modification or arrangement of my Invention is illustrated in Figures 8, 9,
10, and 11 of the Drawings; Figure S representing a side elevation of the front
part of the solitaire; Figure 9, a plan of the upper side with the stone removed;
Figure 10, a section of the two parts of the solitaire connected together; and
Figure 11 a, separate view of the jointed split stem.
h, i, are the two parts of the jointed split stem jointed at top by the joint k;
1, 1, are the notches or shoulders of the jointed parts of the stem for engaging with
the internal shoulder e² of the back part e of the solitaire. The inner ends of the
jointed stem are provided with arms m, m, to which the pushers n, n, are jointed
(see Figure 9). By means of the spring pacting upon the pushers and pressing
them outwards, the parts h, i, of the jointed split stem are also pressed outwards
and their bottom ends separated a short distance from one another; this position is
their normal position. The pushers n may be jointed directly to the jointed split
stem instead of to the arms m, m, as represented. When the jointed split stem h, i,
is introduced into the socket e of the back part of the solitaire, the two parts of the
stem by bearing against the sides of the said socket are closed upon one another
turning on their joint k, and when the said stem has been pushed home the two
parts of the jointed stem open out by the action of the spring p of the pushers, and
their notched ends or shoulders 1, 1, snap under or engage with the internal
shoulder e² of the socket e of the back part of the solitaire, and the two parts of the
solitaire are thereby connected together as illustrated in Figure 10. Pressure on
the pushers n, n, releases the fastening.
The solitaires herein-before described and illustrated may be modified in the
following manner :-I dispense with the pushers by which the fastening is released,
and instead of making a complete annular shoulder in the tubular socket of the

page_text: back part I make internal shoulders only at two opposite parts of the socket.
Figure 12 represents in plan and sections taken at right angles to one another the back
part of a solitaire of the kind described to be used in combination with a front part
of a solitaire, having a split stem or a jointed split stem, as described and illustrated,
the pushers of the solitaires represented being omitted. The internal shoulders at
opposite sides of the tubular socket e are marked q, q, the parts of the socket at
right angles to the said shoulders q, q, being plain or without shoulders. When
the divided or split stein of the front part of the solitaire has been pushed home in
the socket of the back part, Figure 12, the closed parts of the stem open or separate
and engage by a snapping action directly or by a twisting motion through a
quarter of a circle with the two internal shoulders q, q, of the socket, and thereby
fasten the two parts of the solitaire together, that is to say, when the divided stem
is presented to the shoulders q, q, of the socket e, the parts of the said stem close
upon one another, and afterwards snap under the said shoulders, but when the stem
is presented to the unshouldered parts of the socket, the parts of the said stem are
closed upon one another, and by their tendency to separate a twist or partial
rotation is given to the stem, and the said stem made to engage with the said
shoulders q, q.
The releasing of the two parts of the solitaire is effected by a twisting motion of
the front part through a quarter of a rotation, so as to remove its inclines or
notched ends from the internal shoulders q, q, of the socket and permit the divided
stem to be withdrawn from the said socket.
This modification of my Invention is particularly applicable to collar, shirt. and
other studs, the fastening of the two parts being effected in whatever position the
front part is presented to the socket of the back part, and the releasing being
effected by a twisting motion of the front part.
My Invention further consists of the following improvements in solitaires and
other like fastenings having no separable part. To the end of the flat or elliptical
hollow stem of the solitaire a flat cross bar or arm, capable of a partial rotation
works. This cross arm or bar is fixed on the end of an axis, passing through the
stem, the upper end of the said axis carrying a plate, to which plate two spring
slides or pushers are engaged. By the action of the spring slides or pushers upon
the plate to which the axis of the arm or bar is affixed, the said arm or bar is
made to cross the flat or elliptical stem of the solitaire. By pressure upon the
pushers the said bar or arm can be made to coincide with the said stem, and in
this position the stem is introduced through the holes in the sleeve, shirt, collar,
or other article. When the stem and its bar or arm have been passed through the
holes described the pressure on the pushers is relaxed, when the bar or arm resumes
its normal position by the action of the spring pushers upon it, and the said bar
is thereby made to cross the holes in the sleeve or other article and thus fasten
the solitaire in its place. By pressure upon the pushers the crossing bar or arm is
made to coincide with the end of the stem, when the solitaire may be removed.
This part of my Invention is illustrated in Figures 13, 14, 15, 16, and 17, of the
Drawings; Figure 13 representing a side elevation of the solitaire; Figures 14
and 15, plans of under side; Figure 16, a section; and Figure 17, a plan of upper
side with the stone removed.
a is the hollow stem of the solitaire, on the closed end of which a flat cross bar
or arm b works. This cross bar is capable of a partial rotation on the end of the
stem in one position, crossing the said stem as seen in Figure 14, and in the other
position coinciding with the end of the stem, as seen in Figure 15. The cross bar b
is fixed on the lower end of the axis c, the upper end carrying a plate d to which
the spring slides or pushers e, e, are jointed, as illustrated in Figures 16 and 17.
By the outward pressure of the spring slides or pushers e, e, upon the plate & the
cross bar b on the axis c is made to cross the end of the stem a, as illustrated in
Figure 14. In order to fasten the solitaire to the sleeve or article of dress the
pushers e, e, are pressed inwards between the thumb and finger. The cross bar b
is thereby made to coincide with the end of the stem, as illustrated in Figure 15,
°

page_text: and in this position the stem is introduced through the holes in the sleeve or article
of dress. Having introduced the stem and its cross bar into the holes in the sleeve
or dress the pressure on the pushers e, e, is relaxed, when the bar or arm b resumes
the normal position represented in Figure 14, and the said bar or arm is thereby
made to cross the holes in the sleeve or dress and fasten the solitaire in its place.
To remove the solitaire it is only necessary to press upon the pushers e, e, when the
arm or bar 6 is made to coincide with the stem, and the solitaire may be withdrawn
from the sleeve or dress.
My improvements are applied to sleeve links, collar, and other studs, and other
like dress fastenings and ornaments, substantially in the manner described and
illustrated with respect to solitaires.
Having now described the nature of my Invention, and the manner in which the
same is to be performed, I wish it to be understood that I claim as my Invention
of improvements in solitaires, sleeve links, shirt, collar, and other studs, and other
similar dress fastenings and ornaments.
First. Making the stem of the front part of the solitaire, dress fastening, or
ornament in halves, which halves are carried by spring slides or pushers, the said
halves of the divided or split stem being furnished with inclines, the shoulders of
which engage with or snap upon the internal annular shoulder of the back part of
the solitaire, dress fastening, or ornament, substantially as herein-before described
and illustrated in Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, and 7 of the accompanying Drawings.
Secondly. The modification, herein-before described and illustrated in Figures 8,
9, 10, and 11 of the accompanying Drawings, in which the two parts of the divided
or split stem are jointed together at top, the bottom ends of the said jointed divided
or split stem being provided with notches or shoulders for engaging with or
snapping upon the internal annular shoulder of the back part of the solitaire, dress
fastening, or ornament.
Thirdly. The combination of the front part of the solitaire, dress fastening, or
ornament, provided either with the divided or split stem, or jointed, divided, or
split stem, herein-before described and illustrated, with a back part having internal
shoulders at opposite points of the socket, as described and illustrated in Figure 12.
Lastly. The combination or arrangement of the parts of solitaires and other dress
fastenings or ornaments having no separable portion, herein-before described and
illustrated in Figures 13, 14, 15, 16, and 17 of the accompanying Drawings.
In witness whereof, I, the said David Cutler, have hereunto set my hand
and seal, this Twenty-fifth day of April, in the year of our Lord, One
thousand eight hundred and seventy-seven.
Witness,
HENRY SKERRETT,
Clerk to George Shaw,
Birmingham.
DAVID CUTLER. (L.S.)