Improvements in and in connection with the Printing of Metallic Powders on Textile Fabrics to be Subsequently Mercerized.
Year: 1896

page_text: Date of Application, 22nd Dec., 1896
LOOR
0010
1007
Date of Application, 22nd Dec., 1896
Complete Specification Left, 9th Sept., 1897-Accepted, 23rd Oct., 1907
Improvements in and in connection with the Printing of Metallic
Powders on Textile Fabrics to be Subsequently Mercerized.
We, SALIS SCHWABE and COMPANY LIMITED, of Rhodes Works, Middleton, in
the County of Lancaster, Calico Printers, and ARTHUR BINZ, Ph. D. Chemist, and
ROBIN BORAL, Chemist, both of the same address, do hereby declare the nature of
this Invention to be as follows:-
Our invention relates to improvements in and in connection with the printing
of metallic powders by means of engraved rollers in an ordinary calico printing
machine on textile fabrics which are to be subsequently mercerized and the chief
feature of our improvements consists of a special resist or compound by the use of
which the metallic powders are fixed upon the textile fabrics in such a manner
as to enable them to withstand the subsequent process of mercerizing.
In carrying our improvements into effect we mix the metallic powder or
powders having a metallic lustre or appearance with the resist or compound the
composition of which is hereinafter specified and then print the mixture as a pig
ment by means of the engraved rollers of an ordinary calico printing machine
upon the cloth.
The special resist or compound which we employ is preferably composed of
Linseed Oil, Gum Kauri, Turpentine and Litharge, with a small proportion of
Manganese but we may employ any Linseed Oil Varnish having Gum Kauri, Gum
Copal or Gum Manilla as a base or we may use Linseed Oil and Turpentine either
with or without a Lead or equivalent drying agent.
The result obtained is that the metallic powder becomes fixed on the cloth in
such a manner that it will withstand the subsequent process of mercerizing with-
out becoming blackened or otherwise deteriorated in appearance and lustre.
Dated this 21st day of December 1896.
H. B. BARLOW & GILLETT,
Agents for Applicants.
Improvements in and in connection with the Printing of Metallic
Powders on Textile Fabrics to be Subsequently Mercerized.
We, SALIS SCHWABE and COMPANY LIMITED, of Rhodes Works, Middleton, in
the County of Lancaster, Calico Printers, and ARTHUR BINZ, Ph. D. Chemist, and
ROBIN BORAL, Chemist, both of the same address, do hereby declare the nature of

page_text: this Invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
Our invention relates to improvements in and in connection with the printing
metallic powders by means of engraved rollers in an ordinary calico printing
machine on textile fabrics which are to be subsequently mercerized and the chief
feature of our improvements consists of a special resist or compound by the use of
which the metallic powders are fixed upon the textile fabrics in such a manner
as to enable them to withstand the subsequent process of mercerizing.
The resists or reserves used up to now for this purpose have all been substances
like for instance gum senegal or dextrin or albumen (coagulated after printing)
which have the characteristic quality in common, that after the act of merceriza-
tion they are removed from the fabric. In fact, the process of producing crinkled
effects has, previous to our Invention, invariably been completed by removing the
reserve by a suitable solvent, this solvent as a rule being water, which must be
applied in order to wash off the mercerizing liquor. Reserves like gum senegal
and dextrin are at once taken up by the water whereas others like coagulated
albumen, as far as they are not chemically destroyed by the caustic liquor-are
carried off gradually, though completely, owing to their brittleness which makes
them break off in the act of washing. In the case of gum senegal only a slight
fixation can be effected by mixing it with certain salts like for instance chromium
acetate and subjecting the printed goods to steaming. The gum thereby gelatin-
izes but after treatment with the mercerizing solution and subsequent washing
there is nothing more than a mere trace of the reserve left on the fibro which
slightly stiffens the cloth.
The nature and property of the reserves used up to now have two disadvantages:
First. They have been the cause of bad work inasmuch as the mercerizing
liquor (usually concentrated alkali is liable to penetrate the reserve and thereby
set on parts of the fabric which ought to be protected from shrinkage.
. Secondly. They have limited the variety of crinkled effects obtainable for
wherever it is desirable to give the crinkle a certain colour, which is done by
incorporating the colouring matter into the reserve-it has only been possible to
employ these dye stuffs which combine chemically with the fibre without the aid
of the reserve, and not to utilize anything that can be attached mechanically to
the fabric by a suitable medium.
According to our Invention we employ such a medium in the manufacture of
crinkled fabrics and this medium which is tough as well as elastic remains on the
fibre permanently and enables us to entirely overcome the two drawbacks above
indicated.
It contains as its chief ingredient linoleic acid or its glycerine and essentially
differs from the reserves hitherto used inasmuch as after having been printed in a
state of suitable viscosity, it is transformed into a tough mass by exposure to the
air, becomes absolutely impenetrable for mercerizing liquors, is not to be removed
by any solvent, sticks to the fibre with the utmost tenacity and elasticity and there-
by forms a permanent part of the fabric upon which it has been printed. Owing
to these properties it fixes pigments of any sort mechanically on to the fibre even
metallic pigments, and thereby allows a new development of the crimp style, viz.,
crinkled patterns having the appearance of gold, silver, or otherwise a metallic
lustre.
Linoleic acid, or the glycerine thereof, being the chief constituent of the so
called drving oils it is immaterial which of these oils is taken for our purpose,
whether it be linseed or hempseed, or any other drying oil. Linseed oil being the
easiest to obtain it is this we use in preference. In order to facilitate the drying
which has to take place after printing and is due to the absorption of atmospheric
oxygen by the linoleic acid the raw oil is boiled with litharge, manganese dioxide
or other metal compounds because oil prepared in that way takes up the oxygen
easier. The viscosity necessary for printing is obtained by the addition of turpen-

page_text: tine and we further add a resinous substance like gum kauri, gum copal or gum
manilla whereby the mixture attains a higher lustre when dry. The amount of
the resinous body should, however, not surpass a certain limit otherwise the reserve
would lose its elasticity.
Suitable proportions are for instance.
and a trace of Manganese Dioxide.
If it is required to incorporate a coloured or metallic pigment with the reserve
we add two kilogrammes of pigment to four and a half litres of our drying oil
mixture. As metallic pigments one can use any finely ground metal like for
instance, copper, aluminium, tin or suitable alloys.
After printing, which we preferably carry out by means of engraved rollers in
an ordinary calico printing machine, the goods are hung up for a few days. When
the printing composition is thoroughly oxidized and dried the fabrics are mercer-
ized, washed and dried in the usual way.
We wish it to be understood that gum kauri, turpentine, litharge, manganese
and the pigments are not essential for resisting the mercerizing liquors, that it
is the drying oil which forms the chief feature of our Invention and that we may
leave out any of the other substances mentioned or alter the proportions just given
without thereby departing from the peculiar character of our Invention.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what
we claim is:
1. The use and application, as a reserve against mercerizing agents, of linoleic
acid or its glyceride obtained from any of the drying oils and which may be used
alone or in admixture with any of the substances hereinbefore specified.
2. The use and application of metallic powders or pigments in combination with
the special drying oil reserve or resist as herein described.
3. Printing metallic powders or pigments combined with the special resist
specified by means of engraved rollers in an ordinary calico printing machine on
those parts of the textile fabrics which are to be protected from the mercerizing
solution substantially as herein described.
Dated this 8th day of September 1897
H. B. BARLOW & GILLETT,
17 St. Ann's Square, Manchester, Agents for Applicants.