IMPROVEMENTS IN EMBROIDERING MACHINES
Year: 1885

page_text: I EMILE CORNELY of N° 80 Rue Taitbout, Paris, in the Departement of the
Seine and Republic of France Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of my
invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN EMBROIDERING MACHINES" to be as follows:-
In the single thread "Bonnaz" embroidering machine which works by means
of a needle hook, oscillating looper or thread carrier is employed, which lays its
thread against the needle hook and the latter upon rising draws up its loop for the
formation of the chain stitch in tho well known manner; the said oscillating
thread carrier or looper had been made in such a manner that it could be governed
by means of the crank handle of the machine in accordance with the needle hook
and with the universal feed.
Instead of employing an oscillating looper or thread carrier, a continuously
revolving thread carrier can be employed which in its revolutions around the
needle hook will produce the same result as the one obtained by an oscillating
looper, upon the condition that during its revolutions around the needle the thread
carrier can be governed by the machine.
In the specification to iny letters patent N° 2507 of May 24th 1883 I have
described and claimed such a thread carrier which I employ in my present
invention.
On the accompanying sheet of Drawing Fig. 1 represents an enlarged view of
a new kind of work and the operative elements of the machine for producing it.
Fig. 2. represents a side view of the entire machine, and
Fig. 3 and 4 represents detached views hereafter to be referred to.
O represents the cloth plate of the machine c the cloth, n the needle hook, b a
thread carrier which turns around the needle in a continuous rotary motion.
Na cording guide which is behind the needle hook and through which a cord
or braid P is drawn, which passing from a spool from below is laid between tho
cloth plate O and the cloth c. The revolving thread carrier 6 turns around the
cord P and around the needle and winds its threads simultaneously around both
of them. The needle h upon rising above the cloth draws a loop upwards in the
same manner as is the case in the single thread embroidering machine and produces
the ordinary chain stitch within which the cord P is secured in the manner
Di

page_text: represented at Fig. 1, the thread f of the thread carrier b being wound around the
cord P and around the needle h at the same time naturally fixes the cord securely
to the clotb.
The thread carrier b may be operated by the means described in the specification
to my letters patent N° 2597 of May 24th 1883, or in the following manner.
A screw wheel g is secured to the main driving shaft D of the machine and
actuates a similar horizontal screw wheel k and its shaft 10 the pinions n p and
the shaft q. A pinion A which is secured to shaft q transmits its revolving motion
to a pinion C of equal diameter which turns loosely on shaft Q; a pinion E is
secured to the hub of pinion C and turns also loosely on shaft Q. Two studs m
are secured to the shaft Q and on each of them a pinion a turns loosely and is held
thereon by means of a washer 3 and a pin 4, or by any other means, they are in
gear with the bevel wheel which is secured to the shaft d into which the
shaft extends and in which it can turn freely. The revolving motion of the
shaft D is thus transmitted through the above described pinions and shafts to
the pinions A, C, E, a and vand to the shaft d and thence through the
pinions R. T, KL B to the revolving thread carrier b as already fully explained
in the specification of my letters patent No 2597 of 1883, but upon turning the
shaft by means of the crank handle S the studs m, and their pinions a are
turned with it and the latter impart their motion to the pinion and thus to the
revolving thread carrier b. The motion of the latter is thus a compound one
and consists
1st In a continuous revolving motion imparted to it from shaft q by means of
pinion A.
2nd In the turning motion of crank handle S imparted to it through the
pinions r, u, HI shaft Q and pinions a, which motions are both transmitted to
the thread carrier by means of the shaft d and pinions RT, K L & B.
When the pinion a is turned by means of the shaft Qits tooth 5 Fig. 4 acts as
a bearing against pinion E and turns thereon and it thus acts upon pinion v like
a pinion of double-diameter and communicates to it and to the thread carrier twice
the number of revolutions which it receives from shaft Q which would render the
work impossible. To obviate this difficulty the pinions H & I are interposed the
former of half the diameter of the latter so that the pinion I makes half of a turn
only to each full turn of the crank handle S which by means of pinion a is
transmitted as a full turn to pinion and to the thread. carrier b.
The cording guide N consists in a circular plate provided with a truncated
cono M in which an oval space N is made for the passage of the needle hook h
and behind it for, the cord P. The plate M is secured to the upper rim of the
wheel w fig. 2 which is in gear with a similar wheel Z to which a pinion O is
secured which is in gear with the pinion S on shaft t and which can be governed
by the crank handle S by means of the pinions ? u.
The wheel B is mounted
upon the tube 2 which is secured in the frame F; a small pulley 11 turns on the
tube 2 and is connected by a belt or chain 7 to a pulley G of the crank handle S.
The cording spool 12 is supported by a bracket 8 which is also secured to the
pulley 11.
Thus all the operative elements of the machine besides performing their motions
which are necessary for their work can be governed by the crank handle S as
follows.
1. The needle and the universal feed are governed by the gearing r u, xy, vu,
and y
2. The revolving thread carrier by the gearings ru, HI, shaft Q gearings a v,
RT, K. L. B.
3. The cording guide through gearings ru, so, z w.
4. The cording spool 12 through pulleys 6 & 11.
It is evident that the movement described herein for driving the rotating
thread carrier from the shaft. D hy means of gearings and shafts, and of directing

page_text: it through the crank handle S, can equally well be applied to drive a rotating
thread carrier which works above the cloth such as described and claimed in
patent No 2597 of May 24th 1883, in which case the disposition and arrangement
of the above described shafts and gearings has to be somewhat modified but
without changing anything in the principle of my invention.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Embroidering Machines.
I EMILE CORNELY of 80 Rue Taitbout, Paris in the department of the Seine
and Republic of France, Manufacturer do hereby declare the nature of this
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement :—
In the single thread "Bonnaz" embroidering machine which works by means
of a needle hook, an oscillating looper or thread carrier is employed which winds
its thread around the needle hook and the latter upon rising draws the loop
up through the material to produce the chain stitch in the well known manner.
The said oscillating thread carrier is connected by means of gearings and shafts to
the crank handle of the machine so that it can be guided in accordance with the
needle hook and the universal feed.
Instead of employing an oscillating looper or thread carrier a continuously
revolving thread carrier can be employed to wind its thread around the needle
hook and to produce the chain stitch, but upon the condition that during its
revolutions around the needle the thread carrier can be governed by the crank
handle of the machine.
In the specification to my letters Patent N° 2597 of May 24, 1883 I have
described and claimed such a thread carrier for working above the cloth. In the
present invention I employ it for working under the cloth plate.
Upon the accompanying Drawings
Figure 1 represents an enlarged view of the needle hook the cloth plate and the
thread carrier and the stitch produced by them.
Figure 2 represents a side view of the entire machine.
The other figures represent detached views hereafter to be referred to.

page_text: i
O, represents the cloth plate of the machine. c, the cloth; b, a thread carrier
which turns around the needle hook; in a continuous revolving motion; h the
needle hook. N represents the stitching plate through which the needle stitches
and through which a cord P can be drawn behind the needle from a spool 12,
(Fig. 2) and which cord passes between the cloth plate O and between the cloth c.
In its operation the revolving thread carrier b winds its thread around the cord P,
and around the needle h, and the needle upon rising seizes the thread and draws a
loop up through the cloth to form the chain stitch within which the cord P is
secured in the manner represented at Figure 1; the thread f of the thread carrier b
being wound around the cord P, and around the needle h, at the same time
naturally fixes the cord securely to the cloth.
The thread carrier b, may be operated by means of the mechanisins described in
the specification to my letters Patent No 2597 of May 24th 1883, or by means of
a system of gear wheels in the following manner. The main shaft D of the
machine is provided with a screw wheel g which drives an horizontal scrow wheel k
on the vertical shaft 10 and the pinions n p, the latter of which is secured to
shaft q which drives the pinions A and C of equal diameters (figure 3). The
pinion C turns loosely on shaft Q and is connected with the pinion E which thus
turns with it. Two transversal studs m (figure 3) are secured to the shaft Q and
on each of them a pinion a, turns loosely and is held thereon by means of a
washer 3, and of a pin, or by any other means.
The pinions a, are in gear with a pinion v, which is secured to the shaft d
(Figure 3) into which the shaft Q extends. The revolving motion of the shaft D
is thus transmitted through the above described pinions and shafts g, h, 10, n, p,
q, & A to the pinions C, E a & vand to shaft d and thence through the pinions R
T and K, L, B, to the revolving thread carrier b as already explained in specification
to Patent 2597 of 1883.
Upon turning the shaft Q by means of the crank handle S, the transversal studs m
and their pinions a, are turned with it and the pinions & impart their motion to
the pinion and thus to the revolving thread carrier b. The inotion of the latter
is thius a compound one and consists
1st in a continuously rotating motion imparted to it from shaft q by means of
pinion A.
2nd in the turning motion of the crank handle S imparted to it through the
pinions ru, HI, shaft Q and pinions a.
When the pinious a are turned by the crank handle S and by the shaft Q, the
tooth 5 (Figure 4) of pinion a acts like a bearing against pinion E and turns
thereon, and it thus acts upon pinion v like a pinion of double diameter and
communicates to it and to the thread carrier b twice the number of revolutions
which it receives from shaft Q and which would render the work impossible. To
obviate this difficulty the pinions H I which transmit the movement from shaft t
to shaft Q are made of unequal diameter so that pinion I has double the diameter
of pinion H which latter thus makes half a turn only to each full turn of pinion I
and of the crank handle S, and which by means of the pinions a, is again
transmitted as a full turn to pinion and to the thread carrier b.
The cording guide is a circular plate N provided with a truncated cone M in
which the needle hole and the cording guide is made; as shown at Figure 1°. It
is connected with the toothed wheel w fig. 1 in any manner to turn with the
same, as the cording guide N must also follow the motion of the feed and of the
crank handle S. The wheel w turns within a suitable bearing in the casting X
and it is in gear with a similar wheel Z; to which the pinion o is secured and which
is in gear with the pinion S of shaft t and which can be governed by the crank
handle S by means of the pinions ru. The wheel B is mounted upon the tube 2
which is secured in the casting F. A pulley 11 on the tube 2, is connected by
a belt or chain 7 to pulley of the crank handle S. The cording spool 12 is
supported by a bracket which is also secured to pulley 11.

page_text: follows:
1 The needle and the universal feed are governed by the gearings r u, x y,.
V U, Y Z.
"
:
2 The revolving thread carrier 6 by the gearings ru, HI, shaft Q and
gearings a v, RT & KLB.
3 The cording guide through gearings ru, so & z w.
4 The cording spool 12 through the pulleys 6 & 11.
It is evident that the movement described herein for driving the rotating thread
carrier from the shaft D, by means of gearings and shafts and for guiding it by
the crank handle S, can equally well be applied for driving the rotating thread
carrier when the same works above the cloth as described in specification to Patent
No 2597 of 1883.
In Figures 5, 6, 7 & 8 I have represented the dispositions of the said apparatus
when applied for that purpose within the head of the machine for driving a
rotating thread carrier which operates above the cloth.
In Figure 5 the pinion A is secured to the main shaft D and drives the pinion C,
which together with pinion E turns loosely on the sleeve 13 of shaft Q and drives
the pinions a, v, shaft d pinions R T and thence the rotating thread carrier, while
the direction from the crank handle of the machine is transmitted through shaft 14
pinions ru shaft Q and its pinion 15, pinions 10 H & I, sleeve 13, studs m, and
their pinions av shaft d, and pinions R T which impart the direction to the
rotating thread carrier while the direction to the feed and to the needle bar is
imparted to them through shaft Q and pinions Y. Z. To fully understand this
movement it must be explained that pinion 15, is fixed to shaft but that
pinions 10 & H turn loosely on shaft 18; that pinion I is secured to the sleeve 13,
and that the studs m and their hub are also secured to sleeve 13; further that the
diameters of the pinions 15, 16, H & I must be calculated in such a manner that
pinion I must make half a turn to each full turn of pinion 15.
In Figure 6. I have shown still another arrangement in which one pinion a only
is employed instead of two and wherein the hub of the stud a, is secured directly
to shaft Q. The rotating motion of the main shaft D is communicated to the
thread carrier b, by the same means as above described and the direction of the
crank handle is transmitted to the thread carrier by means of shaft 14 pinions ru,
pinions H I shaft Q pinions a, v, shaft d and pinions RT, and the needle bar and
feed by means of pinions 19, 20 shaft 21 and pinions Y Z. Still another modifi-
cation is represented at Figure 7, where three pinions H. I and 22 are employed
instead of the four pinions 15, 16, H I represented Figure 5.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
1 claim is:
1. The method of fastening a cord, braid or similar article to the seam formed
by a hook needle, by winding the thread around the cord and around the needle,
which thread envelops the cord at the same time as it serves to produce the seam.
2. The combination of a hook needle, a cording guide and a rotary thread
carrier which are working together in the manner above described and which can
be governed by the crank handle of the machine in accordance with the feed
motion, for the production of a chain stitch which envelops the cord or braid and
which thus fixes it to the material.
3. The transmission of a revolving motion from the main shaft of the machine
to a continuously revolving thread carrier by means of a series of shafts pinions
and cogged wheels one or several of which pinions are coupled in such a manner to
the feed directing shaft Q, or to its sleeve 13, that the revolving thread carrier is

page_text: guided by the crank handle of the machine in conformity with the universal feed
while turning around the needle.
4. Connecting the pinion stud or studs m to the feed directing shaft Q, or to its
sleeve 13, in such a manner that the pinion or pinions a can be turned by means
of the shaft Q while turning on their studs m.