Improvements in Button-hole Attachments for Sewing Machines.
Year: 1887

page_text: Date of Application, 30th Aug., 1887
Specification Accepted, 22nd Nov., 1887
[Communicated from abroad by THE PEERLESS BUTTON HOLE ATTACHMENT COMPANY
(INCORPORATED), of Tyler City, Town of Orange, Connecticut, United States
of America.]
Improvements in Button-hole Attachments for Sewing Machines.
I HENRY HARRIS LAKE of the firm of Haseltine Lake & Co. Patent Agents,
Southampton Buildings, in the County of Middlesex, do hereby declare the nature of
this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This invention relates to an improvement in that class of button-hole attachments
for sewing-machines which are adapted to be applied to the presser-foot bar of the
machine, and which are actuated through a lever hung upon the attachment and
extending into connection with the needle bar, so that the up and down recipro-
cating movement of the needle-bar imparts vibratory movement to the said lever, and
this vibratory movement of the said lever imparts the required movement to the
respective parts of the attachment.
In the accompanying drawings
Figure 1 represents a side view, looking from the right.
Figure 2 is a side view looking from the left.
Figure 3, is a top view of the same in the position of Figure 1.
Figure 4 is an under side view thereof.
Figure 5 is a transverse section through the working slot in the work holder.
Figure 6 is a top view of the forward end portion of the plate P.
Figure 7 is an under side view of the forward end of the plate O, Figures 6
and 7 showing the rib and groove around the slot in the work-holder.
Figure 8 is an under side view of the base with the work-holder removed and a
portion at the end opposite the work end broken away.
Figure 9 is a detached view showing a slide and its actuating cam as herein after
described.

page_text: Figure 10 is an inside view of the disc G detached, showing the band with the
dog hung upon the plate 5.
Figure 10a is a detached view illustrating the operation of the feed dog.
Figure 11 is an outside view of the disc G, the plate 5, and the band 4 removed,
showing the check or stop band Q with its actuating dog.
Figure 12 is a transverse vertical section through the crank disc feed.
Figure 13 is a longitudinal central section through the dog and shifter.
Figure 14 is a top view of the base showing the shifter
lever 33, 34.
and the bell-crank
Figures 15 and 16 represent respectively the two classes of button-holes.
Figure 17 is a diagram illustrating the compound transverse movement of the
work-holder required to produce the button-hole Figure 16.
Figure 18 is a partial top view representing the disc E as constructed with the
cam shaped groove for producing the button-hole shown in Figure 16.
Figure 19 is a transverse vertical section through the disc E, showing the groove
in connection with its lever 43.
Figure 20 is a top view of the base showing the lever 43 and its connection with
the lever 33, 34.
Figure 21 is a longitudinal sectional view showing side view of the lever 43 and
its connection with the disc E and the lever 33, 34.
Figure 22 is a diagram illustrating a modification in the cam groove of the
feed disc.
Figures 23, 24, 25 and 26, show modifications in the mechanism for imparting the
said compound transverse movement to the work-holder.
.
Figure 27 is a top view of the universally adjustable work-plate.
Figure 28 is an under side view of the same.
Figure 29 is a longitudinal section through the work-plate on the line of the needle
hole, showing side view of the shuttle cover.
Figure 30 is a transverse section through the work-plate and shuttle cover on
line,, of Figure 27.
A, represents the base, upon the upper side of which is a socket B, adapted for
attachment to the presser-foot bar, and to which it may be secured by a screw C, or
otherwise, and so that the attachinent may partake of the up and down movement
of the presser-foot bar.
On the base is an upright D, see Figures 3 and 12, which is in the form of a flat
plate, the plane of which is longitudinally of the attachment. On one side of this
upright is a disc E, the hub F of which extends through the upright, the disc how-
ever takes a bearing upon its side of the upright. Upon the opposite side of the
upright is a concentric disc G, made fast to the hub of the disc E, and so that
the disc G forms a bearing against its side of the upright, but so as to permit the
free revolution of the discs E and G. Upon the extension H of the hub, the actuating
lever J is hung loosely; it extends from the hub and terminates at its free end in a
fork K, see Figure 1, which is adapted to engage the needle bar, in the usual manner
for this class of sewing-machine attachments, and so that the up and down recipro-
cating movement of the needle bar will impart corresponding vibratory movement to
the lever J. From the lever J an arm L extends downward, forming what in this
class of attachments is commonly called a bell-crank lever. Outside the lever J and
onto the hub, a collar M is applied, which also forms a cam, as hereinafter described.
Through this collar a set screw N is introduced, screwed into the hub F. H, as seen
in Figure 12, and so as to bind the cam collar firmly against the hub, but so as to
leave the lever J free to vibrate independent of the discs E and G.
Beneath the base the work-holding clamp is arranged; this consists of a plate O,
hung upon the under side of the base, and so as to be free for longitudinal and trans-
verse movement, as hereinafter described, and of a second plate P hinged to the under
side of the plate O, at a point distant from the needle end of the two plates, and so
as to leave the needle end of the plate P free to swing up and down as the case may
be, and as indicated in broken lines Figure 2.

page_text: The plates O and P are each constructed with a like opening R at the needle end'
this opening being somewhat larger than the maximum size of button-hole to be
wrought.
Upon the adjacent faces of the two plates O and P, and around the opening R, a
rib is formed on the one, and corresponding groove on the other.
In the illustration Figures 5, 6 and 7, the rib S is formed on the plate P, and the
corresponding groove T in the plate O.
The material in which the button-hole is to be wrought is introduced between
these two plates, and so as to bring the point for the button-hole centrally into
the opening R then the two plates brought together, clamp the work, the rib and
groove so engaging the work as to prevent its accidental displacement. The
plate P is hinged to the plate O by a socket U, see Figures 2 and 4. This
socket is of U shape, in length somewhat less than the width of the plate P, the
depth of the being greater than the thickness of the plate P.
In the hinged end of the plate P a slot is made, in which one leg of the U
stands as a support for that end of the plate P so as to allow a free up and down
swinging movement to the plate P, and also permits a considerable amount of up
and down movement at the hinge, so that the plates may open to a considerable
extent, and still maintain their parallelism, as in broken lines Figure 1, it also permits
rocking movement to the plate P, to adapt it to varying thicknesses of material
surrounding the button-hole, therefore by means of the socket, the plate P is permitted
a universal self adjustment to accommodate itself to variations of the material
surrounding the point where the button-hole is to be wrought.
The plate O being hung to the base, and the base to the presser-foot when the
presser foot is raised, the plate O will rise with it, but the free end of the plate P will
remain upon the cloth-plate of the machine, so that as the attachment rises, it will
open the clamp, as indicated in broken lines Figure 2, and thus while the presser-
foot is raised, permit the introduction or removal of the work, then when the work is
introduced, the presser-foot is dropped, in the usual manner of clamping work in
sewing-machines, and the two plates grasp the work between them under the pressure
of the presser-foot-spring, and so that the two plates moving together, will properly
present the work to the needle.
The movement of the work-holder or plates O, P, is substantially the same as in
other work-holders in button-hole attachments, that is to say, it receives a lateral
vibratory movement to permit the needle to first descend through the work upon the
inner edge of the button-hole, and then in the next stitch, to take onto the material
outside the button-hole and so continuing.
It also receives an advance movement or feed for each stitch, until the end of the
button-hole is reached, then the holder is thrown to the opposite side, and returned
by the step by step feed to stitch the opposite side of the button-hole.
The plate Ŏ is constructed with a longitudinal slot W, which works upon a stud V
projecting downwardly through the base A, and so that it may vibrate thereon in a
horizontal plane, and at the same time may move longitudinally back and forth.
The vibratory or transverse back and forth movement is imparted to the work-
holder from the bell-crank-lever J. The arm L of the said bell crank-lever is
connected to a longitudinally guided slide a, see Figure 1, and so that the vibratory
movement of the lever imparts a corresponding reciprocating movement to the slide a.
This slide extends rearward, and at its rear end is an inward extension b in a
horizontal plane, and through this extension 6 is a vertical stud d, see Figure 13,
which is adjustable in a longitudinal slot in the extension b, and is made so adjustable
by an adjusting screw e, the adjusting screw being fixed in the extension 6 as to
movement in an axial direction, but free to revolve. The screw works through the
head of the stud d, and so that by turning the screw, the stud will be moved backward
or forward, according to the direction in which the screw is turned.
The stud d carries a dog, which extends to the rear, as seen in Figure 2, and so
as to swing freely in a horizontal plane. The free end of the dog terminates in two
arms g, h, the said dog being hung to the stud d, and that stud movable with the slide a

page_text: it follows that the dog will partake of the reciprocating movement of the slide, but
the dog is free to swing to the right or left in a horizontal plane, as indicated by
broken lines in Figure 3.
On the base A and beneath the dog f, the shifter is hung upon a pivot 7, see
Figure 14, and so as to swing thereon in a plane parallel with the dog above it.
The ends of the arms g, h, of the dog turn down, one on the right hand side,
and the other on the left hand side, of the shifter i and so that as the dog swings
upon its pivot, the shifter below stands in the path of the downward projections from
the arms of the dog. The shifter i is constructed with a shoulder m upon one side of
its pivot, and with a like shoulder n upon the opposite side of its pivot, see Figure 14.
The
arms g,
h of the dog through the downward projections therefrom, are adapted
to respectively engage the said shoulders m n accordingly as they may be presented
thereto; these shoulders m, n are substantially opposite each other. The rear or free
end of the shifter is constructed with a finger o on the same side as the shoulder m,
and which finger projects to the left, and upon the opposite side the shifter is
constructed with a like finger which projects to the right. As the dog is moved
backward and forward, as before described under reciprocating movement, the turned
down ends of the arms g, h, work between the respective shoulders and corresponding
fingers of the shifter.
The operation of the dog and shifter is as follows; Suppose the shifter to be
turned to the left, as indicated in Figure 14, and the dog to be thrown back to the
position scen. in Figure 3 in this backward movement of the dog, the downward
projection from the arm g will strike the finger o of the shifter which stands in its
path, and the said finger will act as a cam to turn the dog to the position seen in
Figure 3, and under this movement of the dog the downward projection from the
opposite arm will be brought into line with the shoulder n on the shifter, as seen in
Figure 3, and so that when the dog next advances, the arm h will engage the shoulder n
of the shifter, and as the dog completes its advance, it will turn the shifter to the
opposite side, as indicated in broken lines Figure 14, then when the dog next retreats,
the finger of the shifter will stand in the path of the downward projection of the
arm and that finger will now act as a cam upon the dog to return the dog, and so as
to bring the arm g into line with the other shoulder m of the shifter, and then on the
next advance of the dog, the arm g will engage the shoulder m and return the shifter
to the first position, and so continuing, one advance of the dog will turn the shifter to
one side, and the next advance of the dog will return the shifter to the opposite side.
As the advance and retreat of the slide a is constant, the action of the dog upon the
shifter would be the same were it rigidly fixed to the slide a, but because of the
adjustable stud d which carries the dog, it follows that the dog may be thrown further
to the rear, or forward as the case may be, by simply turning the set screw e
accordingly, if therefore a greater extent of vibration is desired to be given to the
shifter i, then the dog will be moved forward, so that it will engage the shoulders m, n,
on the shifter earlier in its advance or forward movement, or if the vibratory
movement of the shifter is required to be less, then the dog is moved rearward, so
that said engagement between the shoulders m, n, will be made later in the advance
movement of the slide a thus the extent of vibration of the shifter may be readily
adjusted.
From the shifter is a downwardly projecting studs see Figure 13, which extends
through a longitudinal slot Figure 4, in the plate O, this slot comes in rear of the
pivot upon which the plate. O, or holder is hung: the slot permits longitudinal
imovement of the holder on the stud s, as will be hereafter described. The vibratory
movement of the shifter through the stud s, imparts a corresponding vibratory
movement to the holder, as indicated by broken lines Figure 4, throwing it first to
one side and then to the opposite side, and the work being held by the holder, will be
correspondingly moved to the right and left of the path of the needle, and when
properly adjusted, the needle will first descend in the line of the opening of the
button-hole, and then in the next stitch will take onto the work at one
side of the hole, and so continuing, the stitches being alternately made first in the

page_text: line of the button-hole, and then in the material at one side, and as in other button-
hole attachments.
The feed to advance the work between successive stitches, is produced by the
actuating lever J.
The disc G is the feed disc and as before stated is substantially a part of the disc E,
so that the disc E may partake of the intermittent or step by step rotative movement
imparted to the disc G. To produce this step by step rotation of the feed disc, a feed
dog 2 is hung to the lever J upon a pivot 3 eccentric to the pivot on which the lever J
swings, and upon the opposite side of the hub to the lever J, as seen in Figures 1
and 10, and so that as the lever J swings up and down, a corresponding down and up
movement will be imparted to the dog 2.
Around the feed disc C is a friction band 4, see Figure 10 and outside this frictional
band is a plate 5 see Figure 12, which serves to retain the frictional band 4 on the
disc G. The plate 5 forms a lever by which the band 4 is operated. The band 4 is
an elastic divided ring, one end terminating in a shoulder 6, and the other end in a
corresponding shoulder 7, see Figure 10, one overlapping or extending beyond the
other, the division in the ring permitting it to be contracted close upon the surface of
the disc G, or when free, by its own elasticity to release the disc G. From the plate 5
is a radial projection 8 on which a dog 9 is hung, upon a pivot 10, the said dog being
upon the same side of the plate as the frictional band 4; this dog hangs free upon its
pivot, but extends around the shoulder 7 and projects between the two shoulders 6
and 7 of the frictional band 4. If the plate 5 be turned in the direction indicated by
the arrow Figure 10 the operation is to turn the pivot upon which the dog is hung
downward, in so doing the dog acts as a lever, the bearing of its nose upon the
shoulder 7 of the band being the fulcrum, and the bearing of the nose upon the
shoulder 6 being the weight, while the pivot is the power. Now under the descent of
the pivot 10 the dog turns upon its fulcrum or shoulder 7 and raises the shoulder 6
and thereby contracts the band upon the disé G so as to firmly engage therewith, and
cause the disc to partake of the rotation imparted to the band, but upon the upward or
return movement of the plate 5 and the pivot 10 the reverse action of the lever like
dog occurs, and the band expands under its own elasticity, so as to turn upon the
dise G without imparting its rotation to the disc, hence under a vibratory or oscillating
movement imparted to the disc 5, a step by step rotation will be imparted to the disc G.
On the projection 8 from the plate 5 is a stud 11, below one arm 12 of the dog 2
and which stud 11 stands in the path of the dog as the dog descends; as indicated in
Figure 1, and so that as the lever Japproaches its up position, the arm 12 of the dog 2
comes to a bearing upon the stud 11 of the plate 5, as indicated in broken lines
Figure 1. On the other arm 13 of the dog 2 is a nose 14, standing in the plane of
the cam M on the hub of the disc G, but when the dog is in its up position, as seen in
Figure 1 its nose stands away from the periphery of the cam M. As the arm 12 of
the dog comes to a bearing upon the stud 11 of the plate 5, as before described, the
dog will be turned toward the cam M, until the nose 14 of the arm 13 comes to a
bearing upon the cam M, as indicated in broken lines Figures 1, and as seen in
Figure 10, so that now the dog stands locked between the cam M and the stud 11,
then as the lever J completes its rise, the dog is forced downward in such engagement
with the cam and stud 11 and thereby causes the plate 5 to swing with it, and produce
the clamping operation upon the disc before described, so that the advance movement of
the disc is produced during the last part of the rise of the lever J; then as the lever J
descends, the dog rises, and as the lever approaches its down position, the dog strikes
a stop 15 above, which is also on the plate 5 and then as the lever completes its_
descent, the dog rising raises the stop 15 accordingly, and with it returns the plate 5 to
the position from which the dog had before turned it, and in such return of the plate 5,
the friction between it and the feed disc G is relieved, so that the feed disc remains
stationary while the plate 5 is so returned, thus at each full reciprocation of the lever J,
one step in advance is imparted to the feed disc G.
As before stated, the disc G forms substantially a part of the disc E, so that the
disc E. must partake of the intermittent or step by step rotative movement of the said

page_text: disc G. To communicate this step by step movement to the work-holder, a slide 16
is arranged in longitudinal guides 17 parallel with the face of the disc E. In the side
of the disc E is a crank pin 18 which works in a vertical slot 19 in the slide 16 and
so that in each full revolution of the disc E, a full reciprocating movement will be
imparted to the slide 16 according to the throw of the crank 18. This crank-pin is
made adjustable in a radial slot 20 in the disc E, in the usual manner for making
adjustable crank-pin. From the slide 16 a stud 21 extends down through a longitudinal
slot 22 in the base A as seen in Figure S, and so as to work into a corresponding
transverse slot 23 in the plate O, as seen in Figure 4 and so that the step by step
movement of the slide 16 will be imparted to the work-holder throughout the full
revolution of the disc E and such full revolution of the disc E will impart a full
reciprocating movement to the holder, that is, advance for one side of the button-hole
during one half the revolution of the disc E and rearward for the other side of the
button hole during the other half of the revolution of the disc E.
As the action of the disc E upon the slide 16 is that of a crank, it necessarily
follows that unless some provision be made to the contrary, the extent of movement to
the slide would increase as the crank passes from one dead-centre to a point
midway between the two dead-centres, and then diminish to the opposite dead
centre, the result of which would be to begin at one end of a button-hole with
short stitches, gradually increasing until midway of the length of the button-hole,
and then diminish toward the opposite end. It is true the variation would be
slight, but to overcome such irregularity in the feed, the cam M is arranged on the axis
of the feed disc, and made of an eliptical shape, as seen in Figures 1 and 10º, the
longest diameter being substantially parallel with the slot 20 in the disc E, or so that
the longer diameter of the cam M will be presented to the nose 14 of the dog 2 on
the dead centres, the result of this is, that the dog will be brought into action upon
the stud 11 earlier than it will be on the shorter diameter, and the time of action of
the dog will be proportionately increased, so that as the disc E is passing the dead-
centres, the feed produced by the dog will be longer than when on the smaller
diameter, and the feed will gradually diminish toward such smaller diameter, then
increase toward the opposite point of the longer diameter, this cam therefore
compensates for the variation in the length of steps produced by the crank line action
of the disc, and the stitches will be of equal length throughout the button hole.
To prevent the return of the feed-disc after one advance movement under the action
of the clamping band 4, a checking device is provided substantially like the band 4,
as seen in Figure 11, this consists of a band Q like the band 4 and which is placed
beside it upon the periphery of the disc O, as seen in Figure 12 and like the band 4
it is divided, one end terminating in a hook like shoulder R¹, and the other in a
shoulder S corresponding to the shoulders 6, 7 on the band 4, the one shoulder over-
lapping the other in the same manner. On the stationary part of the frame a dog T
is hung, upon a pivot t, its nose u standing between the two shoulders R' and § in
like manner as does the nose of the dog of the band 4. The arrow in Figure 11
indicates the revolution of the disc, as does the arrow in Figure 10 the directions being
the same. Revolving in the direction of the arrow Figure 11, the dog leaves the
band free and open, so that the feed disc G may rotate freely in the advance
direction, but instantly upon the return of the disc G, the friction between it and the
band Qinclines the band to turn with it, and in so doing the dog is turned upward on
its pivot and acts as a lever between the two shoulders R¹ S' to force those shoulders
asunder, and contract the ring to so firm a bearing upon the disc that its return is
prevented.
Both the dog T of this stop or checking mechanism, and the dog 9 of the feeding
mechanism, may be provided with springs which will hold them in their normal
position, as shown, but the springs are not necessary..
One side of the button hole having been stitched, and the end reached, to work
across or around the end, the feed is substantially transverse, or in a short semi-circle.
The operation of passing the end throws the work into a position that the needle may
return upon the opposite side of the button hole.. To impart this transverse movement

page_text: to the work-holder, a cam 24 is formed upon the hub F of the disc E, or made as a
part of the disc, as indicated in Figure 12 this cam being clearly seen in Figure 9,
and guided on the base is a slide 25 having two arms 26 and 27 extending upward,
one each side of the cam 24 and so that the cam works between the two arms as a
fork, hence as the cam revolves with the feed and crank discs, it will impart a
reciprocating movement to the slide 25. The cam 24 is in four divisions, as seen in
Figure 9. From the point 28 to the point 29 represents one side of the button hole,
and is the greatest projection of the cam, and concentric with the axis; from 29 to 30
the cam gradually contracts, and this contracted portion occurs at one end of the
button-hole, then from 30 to 31 is concentric with the axis, and is of the smallest
diameter, and of substantially the same extent as from 28 to 29 corresponding to the
other side of the button-hole, then from 31 to 28 is a rise in the cam, like the fall off
from 29 to 30, and corresponds to the opposite end of the button hole.
On the base A beneath the slide 25 a bell-crank lever is hung, upon a fulcrum 32
one arm 33 of this lever extends longitudinally beneath the slide 25, the other arm 34
of this lever extends outwards, at right angles, and from the slide 25 an arm 35 extends
outward over the arm 34 the arms 34 and 35 are connected by an adjustable screw
pivot 36 working in slots in the respective arms, and so that the reciprocating move-
ment of the slide 25 imparted by the cam 24 as before described, will impart a
corresponding transverse vibratory movement to the arm 33 as indicated in broken
lines Figure 14.
From the arm 33 the stud V extends downward through the longitudinal slot W in
the plate or work-holder O, and so that transverse movement of the arm 33 will be
imparted to the work-holder, to throw it from right to left and return, as indicated in
Figure 4.
Upon the lower end of the stud V a collar 37 is fixed as a suppport for the
plate O.
As the work approaches one end of the button-hole under the step by step movement
of the feed dise the cam 24 working accordingly, brings one of its extreme points
say 29 to one arm of the slide, and the opposite point 31, to the other arm of the slide,
then the slide commences its reciprocating movement under the corresponding rise and
fall of the cam, until the opposite points 30 and 28 are reached, and during the move-
ment of the slide 25 under the rise and fall of the cam, the lever arm 33 is turned to
one side, and correspondingly throws the work-holder, then as the rise and fall of the
cam 24 again come upon the slide, it will, step by step throw it to the opposite extreme
and correspondingly turn the work-holder, and present the button-hole for the
opposite side, the stitching being made around the end during the step by step
movement over the rise and fall of the cam, and this same movement will occur at
each end of the button hole.
As a full revolution of the feed disc and crank disc is required in stitching both
sides and both ends of a single button-hole irrespective of its length, it follows that an
adjustment will be necessary to adapt the attachment to button-holes of different lengths,
for illustration, suppose a button-hole to require one hundred stitches each side, then
there will be required two hundred steps in the revolution of the feed disc and crank ;
now if the button-hole be but half this length, then but fifty stitches will be
required each side and consequently one hundred steps in the full revolution of the
feed disc and crank disc.
To adjust the feed so as to adapt it to button-holes of different lengths, the stop 15
is made adjustable, so as to bring the dog 2 sooner or later into contact with it, and to
make it so adjustable, the stop is in the form of a cam, so that by rotating the cam, it
will present a portion of its surface sooner or later to the dog, accordingly as it is turned
to bring its varying extent into the path of the dog.
The length of the button-hole will be varied by adjusting the crank pin 18 in
the slot 20 to bring it nearer or to take it farther from the axis of revolution of
the disc E.
In this work the hole produced will be as seen in Figure 15 alike at both ends.
The step by step feed for each stitch continues while the change is being made from

page_text: one side to the other of the button-hole, so that while the turn is being made, the feed
will be the combined advance and transverse movement, which results in a rounded
end to the button-hole, as seen in Figure 15.
To produce the eyelet-shaped end for the button hole, as seen in Figure 16, it is
necessary to move the work-holder when at that end of the button-hole, under a
compound transverse movement, that is to say, as seen in Figure 17. The line 38 indicates
the central line of the button-hole.
As the work arrives at the eyelet end, an outward transverse movement must be
given, say as indicated by the line 39 then a transverse return movement, and outward
upon the opposite side to the same extent as the line 39, and as indicated by the line 40
then to return to the centre, as indicated by the line 41, this transverse movement
combined with the advance feed, will produce a circular path for the work, as indicated
by the broken line 42 Figure 17, and so that the stitches made during this
movement will be in the form of a circle, and produce the eylet end of
the hole.
To impart this compound transverse movement to the work-holder, a lever 43 is
introduced longitudinally between the lever 33 and the slide above, as seen in Figures 19,
20 and 21. This lever is hung upon a pivot 44 at some distance from the pivot 32 on
which the lever 33 is hung, and toward the needle, the lever 43 extending to the
opposite side of the said pivot 32 as seen in Figures 20 and 21. The pivot 32
is upon the lever 43, or made as a part of it, so that the lever 33 is practically
hung upon the lever 43, the lever 43 being adapted to swing in a horizontal plane.
In the periphery of the dise E is a cam shaped groove 45, see Figures 18 and 19.
The groove is parallel with the plane of the disc except for a portion on one side the
disc, as seen in Figure 18, this portion is of S-shape, starting from the groove at one
end, it is curved outward, and returns into the plane of the circumferential groove,
midway of the length of the S-shaped portion. From that midway portion the groove
is curved outward in the opposite direction, and returns again into the plane of the
circumferential groove, as seen in Figure 18, and so that the cam shaped portion of
the groove is alike each side of its central point, but reversely curved.
Into this groove, from the lever 43 a stud 46 extends, see Figures 19 and 21, and
so that the lever 46 is under the control of the cam shaped groove; 45. The S
or curved shaped portion of the groove occurs while the work is passing the eyelet
end of the button-hole, the result of this cam upon the lever 43 is to impart to
that lever an outward movement in one direction, thence returning and passing
outward to the other side, and then return again to the central position, when the stud
will follow the circumferential or straight portion of the groove.
Under this movement of the lever 43 the pivot 32 on which the lever 33 turns,
is moved corresponding to the lever 43 and because of such movement of the
lever 33, the work-holder being hung upon said lever, is moved accordingly, and
the work carried by the work-holder will also be moved corresponding to the
movement imparted by the cam shaped groove 45, and this movement is such as
indicated in Figure 17, which combined with the advance intermittent feed
movement imparted to the work holder, produces a circular path of stitching, and
forms the eyelet end of the button-hole.
During the rotation of the disc in which is the cam groove 45, the lever 43 is held in
its central position by the groove from one end of the curved portion of the groove
around the disc, to the opposite end of the curved portion, so that during this part of
the movement of the disc the pivot 32 is stationary, and as if it were a stationary part
of the base.
The connection between the slide 25 and the arm 33 of the lever 33 34 is adjustable.
so as to make the point of connection nearer to or farther from the pivot 32 on which
the said lever 33 34 is hung, and so that the movement imparted to the work-holder by
the cam 24 may be increased by bringing the point of connection between the slide
and the arm 33 nearer the pivot 32 or vice versa; this is a desirable adjustment to
adapt the attachment to various widths of button-hole.
In case a standard size of button-hole only is desired to be made, and consequently

page_text: no such adjustment necessary, then the cam shaped groove 45 may produce the turn
at each end, by making the groove 45 in the shape indicated in Figure 22, the line 48
representing the central line of the button-hole, the irregular line denoting the central
line of the cam groove, that portion 49 of the groove line on one side of the central
line, indicates side of the one button-hole, the curved portion 50 indicates the com-
pound transverse movement before described; the straight portion 51 of the line
on the opposite side of the central line 48 indicates the other side of the button-hole.
and the oblique termination 52 of the line 51 indicates the return to intersect the
line 39 and is the opposite end of the button-hole.
The movement described as imparted to the pivot 32 on which the lever 33 is
hung, while preferably produced by the can shaped groove as described, may be
otherwise produced, say as represented in Figures 23 and 24, by forming on the
periphery of the disc E a series of gear-teeth at a point corresponding to the eyelet
end of the button-hole, and arranging a camm 53, having a groove 54 of the requisite
shaps, into which the pivot 32 extends, as seen in Figure 23, the cam being provided
with a pinion 55 corresponding to the teeth on the disc E, so that at the proper time,
the disc E will impart a full revolution to the cam 54, and that full revolution will
produce the compound transverse movement of the pivot, indicated by the lines 39,
40, 41 Figure 17, and before fully described.
Again, the movement of the pivot may be produced by a longitudinal slide, as
seen in Figures 25 and 26, with a pinion like 55 carrying a crank-pin adapted to
work into a vertical slot 56 extending up from the said slide 57, and the slide
constructed with a diagonal groove 58 into which the pivot 32 extends, and so that
the full reciprocating movement imparted to the slide 57 by the said crank pin,
will, through the diagonal slot 58 impart the compound transverse movement to the
pivot 32 indicated by lines 39, 40, 41, of Figure 17.
In operating upon the button-hole it is necessary to have a supporting work-plate
beneath, which will yield to varying thicknesses and irregularities of material, and
practically form a universal adjustment with relation to the work-holder.
To accomplish this object, I construct an auxiliary work-plate 59, see figures 27, 28,
29 and 30. This plate is made from thin flat sheet metal, and is constructed with
a needle opening 60, corresponding to the usual needle hole of a sewing-machine
work-plate. 61 represents the usual shuttle-race cover. The work-plate 59 is hung
to this cover by two studs 62 and 63. These studs are made fast in the work-plate 59,
and extend through corresponding holes in the plate 61, but the studs are considerably
longer than the thickness of the plate 61, and headed beneath the plate 6.1, as seen in
Figures 29 and 30, so that the plate 59 is prevented from separation from the plate 61,
and when the plate 61 is in place, the plate 59 stands in its proper position with
relation to the needle-hole, and beneath the work-holder.
Upon the under side of the plate 59 and around the needle-hole 60 is a downward
tubular projection 64, which takes a bearing on the work-plate below, around its
needle-hole, as a pivot on which the plate 59 may oscillate. The studs 62 and 63
leave the plate 59 free to thus oscillate upon its pivot 64, but yet hold it always in the
same relation to the needle-hole, and thus a universal rocking movement is permitted
to the plate 59 that it may adapt itself to the work.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed as communicated to me
by my foreign Correspondents I declare that what I claim is :-
First. In a button-hole attachment for sewing-machines, the work-holder consisting
of the plate O, the plate P hung by its rear end to a socket on the plate O, whereby
the said plate P will be permitted a universal self-adjustment with relation to the
plate O, the forward end of the two plates constructed with an opening through which
the needle may work in stitching the button-hole, substantially as described.
Second. In a button-hole attachment for sewing-machines, the combination of a
work-holder, a crank wheel, the connections between it and the work-holder, whereby
reciprocating movement is imparted to said work-holder, a feed disc, concentric with said
B

page_text: crank disc, an actuating lever, adapted to connect with the needle bar of a sewing
machine, mechanism substantially such as described between said actuating lever and
the feed disc, whereby step by step rotation is imparted to said feed disc, and crank
disc, a cam 24, a longitudinal slide 25, in engagement with said cam, and whereby
said slide receives a longitudinal reciprocating movement, a bell-crank-lever, hung
upon the base so as to swing in a horizontal plane, one arm in connection with said
slide, and the other in connection with the work-holder, substantially as and for the
purpose described.
Third. In a button-hole attachment for sewing-machines, the combination of a work-
holder, a crank disc, connection between said crank disc and work holder, whereby
said crank will impart reciprocating movement to said work-holder, an actuating lever
adapted to connect with the needle-bar of the sewing-machine, mechanism substantially
such as described between said actuating lever and feed disc, whereby a step by step
rotation is imparted to said crank disc, a longitudinal slide a in connection with the
actuating lever, and whereby longitudinal reciprocating movement is imparted to said
slide a shifter i hung upon a pivot in the base, so as to vibrate in a horizontal plane, con-
structed with shoulders m n respectively upon opposite sides of the pivot, and with
corresponding fingers or in rear of said shoulders, a horizontally swinging dog f
hung upon said slide a the dog constructed with arms gh adapted to engage the
shoulders m n and fingers or respectively the said dog made adjustable on said
slide, substantially as described.
Fourth. In a button-hole attachment substantially such as described, the com-
bination of the feed disc G the actuating lever adapted to swing under the
reciprocating movement of the needle bar, the divided band 4 around said feed
dise G, the ends of the said divided band overlapping, and constructed respectively
with shoulders 6 7, the plate 5 hung upon the axis of the feed disc, and adapted to
oscillate thereon, the dog 9 hung to said plate 5, its nose extending between said
shoulders 6 and 7, and so as to take a bearing thereon, with connections substantially
such as described between said actuating lever and said plate 5, substantially as
described.
Fifth. In a button-hole attachment substantially such as described, the combination
of the feed disc G, the actuating lever adapted to swing under the reciprocating
movement of the needle bar, mechanism substantially such as described between said
actuating lever and said disc, whereby a step by step rotative movement is imparted
to said disc, a frictional band Q around said disc G, the said band divided, its two
ends extending one beyond the other, and the said two ends constructed respectively
with shoulders R' S, with a dog T hung upon the frame of the attachment, its nose
extending between said two shoulders RS and adapted to bear thereon, substantially
as and for the purpose described.
Sixth. In a button-hole attachment, the combination of the actuating lever J,
adapted to swing under the reciprocating movement of the needle bar, the feed
dise G. the plate 5 hung upon the axis of said feed disc, and adapted to engage
said disc in one direction, but leave it free in the opposite direction, the dog 2 hung
to said actuating lever, the said dog constructed with an arm 12 adapted to engage
with the said plate 5, and also constructed with an arm 13 adapted to engage a
bearing upon the side of the dog opposite the arm 12, the said plate provided with
a stop above said dog, substantially as and for the purpose described.
Seventh. In a button-hole attachment substantially such as described, the com-
bination of the feed disc G, the actuating lever J, the plate 5 hung upon the axis of
the said disc G, and adapted to engage it in one direction, and leave it free in the
opposite direction, the said plate provided with the stud 11, the dog 2 hung upon the
said actuating lever, the cam M fixed to the axis of said feed disc, the said dog constructed
with an arm 12 upon one side, adapted to engage the stud 11, and with a nose 14
upon the opposite side, adapted to engage said cam, the said plate provided with a
stop above said dog, substantially as described.
Eighth. In a button-hole attachment substantially such as described, the combination
of the feed disc G, the actuating lever J, the plate 5 hung upon the axis of the said

page_text: dise G. and adapted to engage it in one direction, and leave it free in the opposite
direction, the said plate provided with the stud 11, the dog 2 hung upon the said
actuating lever, the cam M fixed to the axis of said feed disc, the said dog constructed
with an arm 12 upon one side, adapted to engage the stud 11, and with a nose 14
upon the opposite side, adapted to engage said cam, an adjustable stop 15 on the said
plate 5 and above said dog, substantially as and for the purpose specified.
Ninth. In an apparatus for stitching button-holes, consisting of a work-holder and
mechanism for imparting a step by step advance and vibratory movement to said
work-holder, the combination therewith of mechanism substantially such as described
between said feeding mechanism and said work holder substantially as described, and
whereby at one end of the button-hole the said holder receives an outward transverse
movement on one side, then a return transverse movement occurs and outward from
the other side, and then returns to the centre.
Tenth. In a button-hole attachment for sewing machines, the combination of a
work-holder, a lever adapted to engage the needle bar of the sewing-machine and
receive vibratory movement therefrom, a disc, and mechanism between it and said
lever, whereby said disc receives intermittent rotation, with mechanism substantially
such as described between said disc and work-holder, whereby said work-holder
receives an intermittent advance and vibratory movement, the said work-holder hung
upon a pivot as its centre of vibration, the said pivot made transversely movable, and
mechanism substantially such as described between said disc and said pivot,
substantially as specified, and whereby under the rotation of said disc a transverse
movement is imparted to said pivot, and through it to the work-holder carried by
said pivot, first to one side of the central line, then returning it across to the opposite
side, and finally returning it from that side to the centre.
Eleventh. In a button-hole attachment for sewing-machines the combination of a
work-holder adapted to receive an intermittent advance and vibratory movement,
a pivot forming the centre of vibration for said work-holder, a lever adapted to
engage the needle-bar of the sewing-machine, and receive vibration therefrom, a disc,
with mechanism substantially such as described between it and said lever, whereby
intermittent rotation is imparted to said disc, said disc constructed with a circum-
ferential groove having an S shaped bend therein, a lever between said disc and
work-holder, the said lever carrying the said pivot upon which the said work-holder
is hung as a centre of vibration, the said lever provided with an extension therefrom,
adapted to work in the groove of the said disc, substantially as and for the purpose
described.
Twelfth. In a button-hole attachment for sewing-machines the combination
therewith of a work-plate 59 constructed with a needle-hole 60 and with a tubular
pivot 64 around said needle-hole upon the under side of the plate, with the shuttle-
race cover 61, the said plate loosely hung to said cover, substantially as described,
and so as to permit universal oscillation of said work-plate, substantially as described.
Dated this 30th day of August 1887.
Dated this 30th day of August 1887
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
45, Southampton Buildings, London, W.C.,
Agents for the Applicant.
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
45, Southampton Buildings, London, W.C.,
Agents for the Applicant.