Year: 1897

page_text: We, LOUIS EUGENE FARCY, EMILE CHARLES OPPENHEIM, both of 13 Rue des Petits
Hôtels, and JULES LAFLECHE, of 48 Boulevard Sébastopol, all of Paris, in the Republic
of France, Manufacturers, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as
follows:-
This invention relates to the manufacture of a novel description of corset which
we have devised, such corset being provided at top and bottom with triangular
shaped gussets of open work elastic fabric, in such a manner that the corset
possesses a very large amount of flexibility whilst at the same time the open work
fabric prevents the body of the wearer from becoming heated.
Our improved corset is provided, both at the top and bottom, with triangular
gussets of open-work elastic fabric. In this manner a corset is obtained which gives
readily at the breast and hips. As the fabric is open-work the body of the wearer
does not become heated and perspiration is not caused; the air is able to circulate
freely, so that the corset is thoroughly hygienic.
We may likewise provide upon the front of the corset, in proximity to the busk,
elastic strips.
The elastic fabric employed by us may be manufactured in any suitable manner;
the fabric which we prefer to employ is fabric in strips which we obtain for example
in the following manner:
The fabric may consist of too kinds of bands of open work fabric; one of these has
six openings in the width, that is to say more exactly, three in one row and three
alternated with the first in the preceding row and that immediately following. The
band of open work elastic fabric may have eight openings in the width, that is to say
it may have successive rows of four alternating openings.
In order to manufacture this open work elastic fabric, the number of shuttles
employed exceeds by one the number of openings in a row, that is to say, it requires
four shuttles for making the fabric first referred to, and five shuttles for that
subsequently described.
These shuttles operate in the following manner :
The first shuttle is passed, the three elastic threads which constitute the warp in
the first part of the width of the fabric only being raised, the shuttle returns
passing over the threads which are then depressed.
The second shuttle is then passed, the six-threads of the second part being only
raised; the shuttle returns, these threads being depressed.
The same thing occurs with the third and fourth shuttles the six threads of the
third and fourth parts of the fabric being raised.
On changing the shed, the six threads of the first intermediate part of the fabric
are raised for the passage of the first shuttle, six in the second and third intermediate
parts likewise for the successive passage of the second and third shuttles; only the
three threads of the fourth intermediate part are raised for the passage of the
fourth shuttle.

page_text: It will he understood that the threads of each portion of the fabric rise and fall
alternately so as to produce as desired fabrics having different arrangements of the
threads such as taffetas or satin for example; this operation is regulated by the
Jacquard or leaf mechanism.
In making a modified form of fabric, the five shuttles make successively the first
second third fourth and fifth groups of threads then on the shed changing the
corresponding intermediate groups.
In every instance the first or the last shuttle only passes under three raised elastic
threads, and all the others pass under six such threads. It will of course be
apparent that the number of elastic threads between the openings may vary as
desired, and according to special requirements.
The elastic fabric is made in bands or strips from which we cut out the triangular
pieces which are intended to form the gussets of the corset if these latter are higher
than the width of the band of fabric, two are joined side by side.
This open-work elastic tissue is inserted between the inside and outside fabrics of
the corset and is sewn with these upon the edges.
1
Improvements in Corsets.
WE, LOUIS EUGENE FARCY, EMILE CHARLES OPPENHEIM, both of 13 Rue des Petits
Hôtels, and JULES LAFLECHE, of 48 Boulevard Sébastopol, all of Paris, in the Republic
of France, Manfacturers, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in
and by the following statement:-
This invention relates to the manufacture of a novel description of corset which we
have devised, such corset being provided at top and bottom with triangular shaped
gussets of open work elastic fabric, in such a manner that the corset possesses a very
large amount of flexibility whilst at the same time the open work fabric prevents the
body of the wearer from becoming heated.
In the accompanying drawing;
Figure 1 is a perspective view of the improved corset, and
Figures 2 and 3 shew two kinds of open-work fabric.
As shewn in Figure 1 our improved corset is provided, both at the top and bottom,
with triangular gussets G and G¹ of open-work elastic fabric, the top right hand
gusset only is shewn with the openings which the fabric which we employ for this
purpose possesses. In this manner a corset is obtained which gives readily at the
breast and hips. As the fabric is open-work the body of the wearer does not become
heated and perspiration is not caused; the air is able to circulate freely, so that the
corset is thoroughly hygienic.
We may likewise provide upon the front of the corset, in proximity to the busk B,
elastic strips E.
The elastic fabric employed by us may be manufactured in any suitable manner;
the fabric which we prefer to employ is fabric in strips which we obtain for example
in the following manner :-
Figures 2 and 3 shew, upon an exaggerated scale two kinds of bands of open-work
fabric; one of these (Figure 2) has six openings in the width, that is to say more
exactly, three in one row and three alternated with the first in the preceding row

page_text: and that immediately following. Figure 3 shews a band of open work elastic fabric
having eight openings in the width, that is to say, having successive rows of four
alternating openings.
In order to manufacture this open-work elastic fabric; the number of shuttles
employed exceeds by one the number of openings in a row, that is to say, it requires
four shuttles for making the fabric represented in Figure 2, and five shuttles for that
shewn in Figure 3.
These shuttles operate in the following manner:
The first shuttle is passed, the three elastic threads g which constitute the warp in
the part a (Figure 2) only being raised, the shuttle returns passing over the threads
which are then depressed.
The second shuttle is then passed, the six threads g of the part 6 being only
raised; the shuttle returns, these threads being depressed.
The same thing occurs with the third and fourth shuttle the six threads of e and d
being raised.
On changing the shed, the six threads of a¹ are raised for the passage of the first
shuttle, six in b and c' likewise for the successive passage of the second and third
shuttles; only the three threads of dare raised for the passage of the fourth shuttle.
It will be understood that the threads of each portion of the fabric rise and
fall alternately so as to produce as desired fabrics having different arrangements
of the threads such as taffetas or satin for example; this operation is regulated by
the Jacquard or leaf mechanism.
For the fabric, Figure 3 the five shuttles, make successively, a, b, c, d, e, then on
the shed changing a b₁ c¹ d¹ e¹.
In every instance the first or the last shuttle only passes under three raised
elastic threads, and all the others pass under six such threads. It will of course
be apparent that the number of elastic threads between the openings may vary as
desired, and according to special requirements.
The elastic fabric is made in bands or strips from which we cut out the triangular
pieces which are intended to form the gussets G, G¹ of the corset shewn in Figure 1;
if these latter are higher than the width of the band of fabric, two are joined side by
side as indicated at x.
This open-work elastic tissue is inserted between the inside and outside fabrics of
the corset and is sewn with these upon the edges.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what we
claim is:-
The manufacture of corsets having gussets of open-work elastic fabric permitting
the access of air to the body whilst at the same time assuring the flexibility and
elasticity necessary to prevent the wearer from being incommoded; this elastic fabric
being preferably manufactured by means of several shuttles passing alternately
beneath and above the elastics or threads of india rubber successively raised and
depressed by the Jacquard or leaf mechanism in accordance with the foregoing
description with reference to the drawing.
Dated this 2nd day of December 1897
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
45, Southampton Buildings, London, W.C., Agents for the Applicants.