CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN MAKING CRAVATS AND STOCKS, MAGICAL CRAVATS.
Year: 1860

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Isidore Hayem, junior, of 2, Rue Sainte Appoline,
Paris, (France,) Merchant, for the Invention of "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS
IN MAKING CRAVATS AND STOCKS, MAGICAL CRAVATS.'"
Sealed the 7th August 1860, and dated the 23rd March 1860.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Isidore Hayem at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 23rd
March 1860.
I, ISIDORE HAYEM, junior, of 2, Rue Sainte Appoline, Paris, (France,)
Merchant, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "CERTAIN
IMPROVEMENTS IN MAKING CRAVATS AND STOCKS, MAGICAL CRAVATS,'" to be as
follows:-
My Invention consists in the manufacture of a cravat, having at one end a
knot or rosette formed of three parts, undereath which is a spring passage
(passant) in which the other extremnity of the cravat may be introduced, which,
when it is thus placed, forms the fourth part of the knot or rosette, as they are
generally made. To introduce this extremity into the passage with facility, it
is necessary to provide it with a substance offering some resistance.
When required that the knot should be completely made beforehand, I
employ a spring placed in the body of the cravat, or a thin piece of steel, one
of the ends of which engages in a passage (passant) placed under the knot, or
a spring hook to keep the cravat closed.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Isidore Hayem in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 15th
September 1860.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, ISIDORE
HAYEM, junior, of 2, Rue Sainte Appoline, Paris, France, Merchant, send
greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-third day of March, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty, in the twenty-third year of Her reign,
did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the said
Isidore Hayem, junior, Her special licence that I, the said Isidore Hayem, junior,
my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Isidore
Hayem, junior, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time
agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter
during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use,
exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland,
the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "CERTAIN IMPROVE-
MENTS IN MAKING CRAVATS AND STOCKS, MAGICAL CRAVATS,'" upon the condition
(amongst others) that I, the said Isidore Hayem, junior, my executors or admi-
nistrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of their
hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the
said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and
cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar
months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said I Isidore Hayem, junior, do hereby
declare the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same
is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement, reference being had to the Drawing hereto annexed, and
to the letters and figures marked thereon, that is to say :-
My Invention has for object to avoid the loss of time and the care required
in making the bow or rosette in ordinary cravats. With my new combination
the cravat may be put on perfectly well, and tightened more or less without
fear of the cravat been loosened by the various movements of the body, and so
little time is necessary for putting it on or taking it off, that I have given to
it the name of "magical cravat."
And my Invention consists in the manufacture of a cravat, having at onc
end a bow or rosette composed of three parts, underneath which is a spring
passage or passer, in which the other extremity of the cravat is introduced,

page_text: which forms the fourth part of the bow or rosette as generally made. To in-
troduce this extremity into the passage or passer çare must be taken to furnish
it internally with a material sufficiently stiff to allow its passage to be effected
with facility. When required that the bow should be completely made before-
hand, I employ a spring placed in the body of the cravat, or simply a thin
piece of steel, one extremity of which engages in a passage or passer placed
under the bow, or a simple spring hook may be employed to keep the
cravat closed.
To make my Invention better understood, I will proceed to describe the
same by the aid of the annexed Drawing, which represents several applications
of my Invention, but it will be understood that the principle of my Invention
can be adapted to cravats and stocks of every kind.
Figure I shows the cravat before being put on. Fig. 2 shows it as placed
round the neck. Figure 1 shows the bow ready made composed of three
parts, a, b, and c. The part c being the prolongation of the part b is
separated from it by the piece f, which is passed transversely over all this part
of the cravat, but the stitching of the piece of stuff f is made so as to allow
the end of the cravat to pass between it and the under part of the body of
the bow. To facilitate the passage of the part d, its extremity is lined with
a piece of whalebone, cardboard, parchment, skin, gutta percha, vulcanized
india-rubber, steel, or other suitable material for giving it sufficient stiffness
to enable its easy introduction into and passage through the passer sewed
behind the bow of the cravat.
To prevent the involuntary loosening of the cravat or stock, I have sewn in
the interior of the piece f a passer in the form of a pincer, composed of two
thin elastic metal plates joined together, so as to permit of the introduction at
one end of the extremity d, which is tightened by the other end of the said
metallic plates. Figures 3 and 4 are views of a contrivance made of metal
applicable for this purpose. It is seen that the extremity d can be easily
introduced into the opening h, Figure 4, between the two parts i, i, and j,j,
which by approaching each other form a pincer at o. This pincer keeps the
cravat perfectly closed just at the place where it is put on, allowing at the
same time the facility of tightening or loosening it more or less according to
requirement or the will of the wearer. This passer or pincer may be made in
different ways, not only with plates or strips of metal, but also with metallic
wire suitably placed. I can also obtain a good effect by employing a lining
of india-rubber, or other material, with forms and qualities suitable to the
desired results, which are to allow of the introduction of one of the ends of
the cravat under the bow to keep that part of the cravat suitably fastened to

page_text: prevent it from slipping when worn, and also to allow the cravat or stock thus
made to be put on or taken off promptly and easily, having at the same time
a bow made with all desirable perfection. I have said that the extremity d of
the cravat forms the completion of the bow. Now, if the neck be squeezed
more or less, this end d may slip out more or less, which destroys the purity
and symmetry of the form of the bow. To avoid this defect, I make the bow
complete beforehand, and behind this bow I sew either a passer or nipper,
Figs. 3 and 4, or in lieu thereof two pieces of metal similar to those shewn
at Figures 5 and 6, which consist of a spring m fixed in the interior of the
cravat, and which goes round the neck. By this arrangement the cravat is
always kept of the required size by the spring m, the extremity of which may
be furnished with the piece p, p, made of steel, or other stiff material, and fixed
to the said spring by rivets. This piece p, p, is held frictionwise between the
two metallic plates n and o, which form the passer; the part n of which is
rivetted to the other extremity of the spring m, and the part o forms one with
the part n, or is united to it in such a manner as to form one and the
same piece.
It will be understood that this arrangement permits of tightening the cravat
more or less by forcing the piece p into the runner, or by withdrawing it
without affecting the form and regularity of the bow, and these arrangements
of passers may be applied to the kind of cravats and stocks represented in
Figs. 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, and 12, with like advantages.
The mechanical arrangements for holding these cravats can suit every one.
Some persons, however, may desire to have cravats and stocks of this kind having
a fixed length, susceptible at the same time of being put on and taken off
instantly. For this purpose I employ an arrangement similar to that repre-
sented in Figures 13, 14, and 15, composed of two parts r and s; the part r
is sewn behind the bow made beforehand, and the pieces is sewn at the
extremity of the cravat, so that when the cravat is passed round the neck it is
merely necessary to engage the extremity s', in the opening r¹, for the cravat
to be instantly put on; for the part s¹, having a spring, is caught hold of by
the part r. When it is wished to take it off, it is merely necessary to press on
the exterior extremity of the piece s', which is at once disengaged from its notch,
and at the same time the cravat may be removed. These pieces r and s may be
made of various forms and sizes, and of metal or other suitable material. I can
also employ a pincer, in which the extremity of the cravat would be introduced
underneath or above, by means of an arrangement similar to that represented
in front and side views, at Figure 16. In this case the end is introduced under-
neath. If this pincer is turned, it must be introduced above.

page_text: Having now described the nature of my said Invention, and the manner of
performing the same, what I claim as my Invention, and intend to be pro-
tected by the herein in part recited Letters Patent is,-
First, the manufacture of cravats and stocks, in which the greater part of
the bow made beforehand is completed by one of the extremities of the
cravat (stiffened as aforesaid) being introduced into a spring passer or nipper
placed underneath or behind the bow of the cravat, as herein-before described
and represented in Figures 1 to 4, and Figure 16 of the annexed Drawing.
Secondly, the making cravats and stocks having a bow complete, with or
without spring in the length of the cravat, for enabling it to be put on or
taken off instantaneously, and tightened more or less, as herein-before
described and shewn in Figures 3 to 12 of the Drawing.
Thirdly, the construction and employment of mechanism, by which the
cravat or stock may be made of a fixed size, and have the property of being
put on and taken off instantaneously, as herein-before described and repre-
sented in Figures 13, 14, and 15, of the annexed Drawing.
In witness whereof, I, the said Isidore Hayem, have hereto set my
hand and seal, this Sixth day of September, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty.