of Waterproof Clothing from Calico or Linen Web.
Year: 1885

page_text: of Waterproof Clothing from Calico or Linen Web.
I ANGUS CHISIM of 140 Corporation Street in the Borough of Belfast and
County of Antrim in Ireland Clothier do hereby declare the nature of the said
invention for IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MAKING OF OILSKIN COATS AND OTHER
ARTICLES OF WATERPROOF CLOTHING FROM CALICO OR LINEN WEB to be as
follows:-
The object of my invention is to produce oilskin coats, sleeves, leggings, trowsers,
capes, aprons and other articles of waterproof clothing without unnecessary and
numerous seams and with increased economy of material.
For this purpose I fold the end of a web of calico or linen back under the web
for such a length as is required by the widest part of the desired garment or part
of a garment. I then measure the width of the narrowest part of the desired
garment or part of a garment along the web from the point to which the under or
first layer reaches and turn the web back over the second layer until it reaches the
edge at which the previous fold was made and I afterwards double the remainder
of the web backwards and forwards in folds of the combined widths of the widest
and narrowest parts of the desired garment or part of a garment. I then cut the
cloth down transversely between the edges of the folds in a diagonal line so as to
produce the desired garment or part of a garment as the case may be out of the
adjoining layers of each fold.
HYNDMAN & DICKSON,
Agents for Applicant.

page_text: Improvements in the Making of Oilskin Coats and other Articles
of Waterproof Clothing from Calico or Linen Web.
I ANGUS CHISIM of 140 Corporation Street in the Borough of Belfast and
County of Antrim in Ireland Clothier do hereby declare the nature of my invention
for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MAKING OF OILSKIN COATS AND OTHER ARTICLES OF
WATERPROOF CLOTHING FROM CALICO OR LINEN WEB" and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement:-
The object of my invention is to produce oilskin coats, sleeves, leggings trousers,
capes, aprons and other articles of waterproof clothing without unnecessary and
numerous seams and with increased economy of material.
For this purpose I select a web of calico or linen as near as may be of a width 1
corresponding to the length of the desired garment or part of a garment and where
such garment or part of a garment is wider at or towards one extremity than at or
towards the other or otherwise tapering in form, I fold an end of the web so
selected back under the web for such a length as is required by the widest part of
such garment or part of a garment. I then measure the width of the narrowest
part of such garment or part of a garment along the web from the point to which
the under or first layer reaches and from the point so arrived at I turn the web
back over the second layer thereof until it reaches the edge at which the previous
fold was made and I afterwards double the remainder of the web backwards and
forwards in folds of the combined widths of the widest and narrowest parts of such 2
garment or part of a garment.
I then cut the cloth down transversely between the edges of the folds of the
web in a curved, waved or straight diagonal line, according to the contour of
the desired garment or part of a garment, as the case may be, so as to produce
such garment or part of a garment out of the adjoining layers of each fold, the 2
edges or turn over of the folds entirely or partially taking the places of and
dispensing with the necessity for seams.
Where the desired garment or part of a garment is not tapering in form but is
of the same width at each extremity or at points equidistant from each extremity
I may fold the web in layers of the width of either two or one only of the desired 3
garments or parts of a garment and cut the cloth down transversely in a curved,
waved or straight line rectangularly and midway between the edges of the folds.
or at the edges of one of the folds only, according as the web is folded for two or
one only of such garments or parts of a garment.
In making trousers from the web, folded in the manner firstly hereinbefore 3
described, after having cut through the web transversely in a curved or waved
diagonal line, I cut a wedge shaped piece at the widest end or selvage from the
second and third, sixth and seventh and every in like manner alternately successive
two layers of the cloth and I attach the last cut edge of each piece so removed to
the remaining or principal part of the layer from which it was removed along the
previously adjoining selvage of the cloth so as to form the back top piece of the
body of the trousers. The only seams needed to complete such garments are

page_text: the insides of the legs and the back, both the outside leg seams and the seat seam
being thus entirely dispensed with. The spare is formed by folding back and
sewing down or binding the edges at the front and seat of the body as far as the
seam in the back.
The web is similarly folded and cut for making aprons, capes, leggings and
sleeves and, for aprons and capes, a wedge shaped piece is cut through both layers
at the widest part of the garment with the apex thereof in the selvage of the
cloth at or towards the fold and the pieces so removed are connected, for aprons,
with the selvage on the opposite side of the cloth, the points of the apices being
laid towards or to the centre of the top.
In making coats from the web folded in either of the manners secondly herein-
before described I cut or scoop out diagonally a piece of the cloth of a slightly oval
form near either of the selvages and about midway between the folded edges of
the web and the intended front line of the desired garment so as to form arm holes
and I remove the pieces of cloth left between such arm holes and the adjoining
selvage by two straight cuts of equal length, one on each side of the arm holes, the
cut nearest the folded edges of the web being in nearly the same diagonal direction
as the arm holes and the other forming an obtuse angle therewith: and, from the
outer or selvage end of the last named cut, I make another cut in a curved line so
as to remove a piece of the cloth and make the front of the garment fit round the
throat. The only seams needed in this garment are the connections of the two
straight cuts between the arm holes and the selvages and of the sleeves to the arm
holes and of a collar round the neck.
I may make the two straight cuts and the lower part of the oval cut which lies
between the converging points of the two straight cuts in the preceding paragraph
described by one continuous operation so as to remove the cloth in a single piece
instead of in two pieces and I trim the single piece so removed and form it into a
hat known as a sou-wester.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is
1. The use in making waterproof garments of webs of linen and calico folded,
cut and employed substantially in the manner and for the purposes hereinbefore
mentioned and described.
2. The shaping, cutting and making of waterproof garments from the web
substantially in the manner and for the purposes hereinbefore mentioned and
described.
3. The combination and arrangement of parts of waterproof garments shaped
and cut from the web substantially in the manner and for the purposes hereinbefore
mentioned and described.
Dated this 8th dose of Ontahan 100%
ANGUS CHISIM.