Improved Method of Cutting and Making Gentlemen's Overcoats.
Year: 1890

page_text: Date of Application, 27th Oct., 1890
Complete Specification Left, 8th Dec., 1890-Accepted. 7th Feb., 1891
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improved Method of Cutting and Making Gentlemen's Overcoats.
LEON GLAZER, 70, Newman Street, Oxford Street, W., London, Journeyman
Tailor, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
In cutting out and making arrangeing and planing the material that the usual
seams are avoided as regards the body part, so that the finished garment shall have
neither back, side, nor shoulder seams.
I also claim a new mode of lining the coat without any seam.
This is arranged in this manner. The crease edge of the cloth forms the centre
of the back and by cutting all round the pattern the same when joined together
shows no seam-the shoulder seam is avoided by bringing the back right over the
shoulder and joining it to the fore parts in a line with the breast pockets so that
the only seam
across the breast, the greater part of which is hidden by the
breast pockets-& which are quite invisable when stoated together-one end going
into the scye or arm hole the other terminating in the lappel seam which is not
seen on account of the roll of the lappel-the lining being cut in like manner no
seam is visible excepting a small one across the front which is covered by a
V shaped piece & is found in all coats properly made-In the sleeve only one seam
is used and is placed directly under the arm so that neither fore or hind arm
present any seams that are seen, and are properly shaped by shrinking in the making.
Dated this 25th day of October 1890.
LEON GLAZER.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improved Method of Cutting and Making Gentlemen's Overcoats.
LEON GLAZER, 70, Newman Street, Oxford Street, London, W., Journeyman
Tailor, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement :-
In cutting out and making, arranging & planning the material; that the usual
seams are avoided, as regards the body part so that the finished garment shall have
neither back, side nor shoulder seams, & no seam on top of the sleeve head.
I also claim a new mode of lining the coat without any seam.
This is arranged in this manner :-
The crease edge of the cloth a, forms the centre of the back and by cutting all
round the pattern the same when joined together bb, shows no seam.
The shoulder seam is avoided by bringing the back right over the shoulder and
joining it to the fore parts b, in a line with the breast pockets, bb, so that the
only seam is across the breast, the greater part of which is hidden by the breast
pockets b. b-& which are quite invisable, when stoated together-one end going into
the seye or armhole c, the other terminateing in the lappel seam which is not seen
on account of the roll of the lappel-the lining being cut in a like manner, no seam
is visible excepting a small one across the front which is covered by a V shaped
piece & is found in all coats properly made.
In the sleeve only one seam is used & is placed directly under the arm so that
neither fore or hind arm present any seams that are seen, and are properly shaped
by shrinking in the making.
The coat is out entirely out of 1 piece of cloth.

page_text: The work is arranged in the following manner :-
I take a pattern of a forepart, a back & a sleeve.
I then commence by placing the back a. a. to the forepart after that is done I
mark the place where the pockets -, have to come. I then cut out the forepart
piece where the outside breast pockets should come and then place the forepart
piece to the back of the shoulder, after this is done I take the sleeve ce & place it
exactly in the armhole c c & bring the hind arm seam d, where it t to come,
two and a half inches (24) from the back pitch d. d. as is usually done to all other
coats, so that the sleeve should hang in a proper position when the coat is finished,
I also leave two and a half inches (2) of cloth remaining where the hind arm seam
for the under part sleeve . d. is to come, & also leave an amount of cl h requisite
for the fore-arm seam d. d. remaining to be used for the other under p rt sleeve, I
then take the two parts of the sleeve d. d. and attach them together; when this
is done the sleeve becomes then in a proper shape. When all these particulars
are carried out the coat becomes finished, the same as any ordinary coat
In lining the coat in the manner described in the working of the coat,-I
arrange it in the following way :--I place the back to the forepart, bring the
cloth facing to the front, the crease edge of the lining forms the centre of the
back, the same as the coat; and when cutting all round the pattern, I first cut
the lining where the (V.) piece is to come, & then bring the top shoulder part
to the back of the shoulder & then I bring the shoulder piece to the piece
marked (V.), after that the shoulder piece & (V.) piece are joined together.
The puff is placed on the top of the (V.) piece in such a manner as is done
to all other coats which are properly made, and after which the lining becomes
complete without any seam being seen.
When the particulars as stated above in reference to the coat & the lining of
the same is followed exactly as described the coat receives the same additional
touches as in all coats.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is
In cutting and making coats so that there is no seam seen whatever, with one
exception and that is "only one seam under the arm which however is not visible
when the coat is worn also that there is no seam in the lining.
23
Dated this 5th day of December 1890.
LEON GLAZER.