IMPROVEMENTS IN EMBROIDERY KNITTING, AND IN MACHINERY THEREFOR, WHICH MACHINERY IS APPLICABLE FOR BOTH PLAIN AND RIBBED WORK
Year: 1876

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Robert Lake, of the Firm of Haseltine, Lake,
& Co., Patent Agents, Southampton Buildings, London, for the Invention of
"IMPROVEMENTS IN EMBROIDERY KNITTING, AND IN MACHINERY THEREFOR,
WHICH MACHINERY IS APPLICABLE FOR BOTH PLAIN AND RIBBED WORK." A
communication from abroad by Charles James Appleton, of Elizabeth, New
Jersey, United States of America.
Sealed the 30th June 1876, and dated the 26th April 1876.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Robert Lake at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 26th April 1876.
WILLIAM ROBERT LAKE, of the Firin of Haseltine, Lake, & Co., Patent Agents,
Southampton Buildings, London. "IMPROVEMENTS IN EMBROIDERY KNITTING, AND
IN MACHINERY THEREFOR, WHICH MACHINERY IS APPLICABLE FOR BOTH PLAIN AND
RIBBED WORK." A communication.
One object of this Invention is to produce plain knitting with embroidered ver-
tical stripes of any color, each stripe being made from separate yarns and worked
by particular needles into the fabric. It is applicable to all plain knitting machi-
nery, circular or straight, and it may be attached to machines having a number of
feeds, as "Balmoral" machines producing horizontal stripes, the combination of the
two stripes, vertical and horizontal, producing plaid. I arrange the horizontal
needles to knit, and when the cylinder needles knit both sets use yarn from the
same guide, the fabric knit may be widened or narrowed by taking needles out of
or putting in needles in the needle plate.
By adding an extra yarn guide placed over the horizontal needles in the rear of
the cylinder needles, and another thread arranged to knit running in the same
direction as the cylinder thread, what is known as tuck work will be knit. This
extra yarn guide may be pivoted to and overlap the needle cylinder yarn guide,
the plate and its yarn standard being removed, as is necessary in the production of
tuck work.
Work being on the cylinder needles and needle cylinder and the yarn guide
threaded up, motion is given to the cam ring driving gear wheel, causing the said
Price Gdl

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needles in the cylinder fixed to bed plate to slide up and down, and in their down-
ward motion to take yarn from the yarn guide and revolving bobbin. The said
bobbin and yarn guide revolve with the needle cam plate inside of stationary em-
broidering yarns, stationary embroidery bobbins are placed on holders, and yarn
is drawn off perpendicularly through eyelets over them, passing horizontally to
corresponding eyelets near yarn standard, then directly to embroidery yarn guide.
The standard and yarn guides are secured to the guide plate held in position by
plate holders and some of the cylinder needles; each yarn guide feeds yarn into a
particular needle located in its groove in the said plate, which is held in position by
holders adjusted by screws resting on the cam ring.
The needles in the said plate receive reciprocating motion from the cam plate
driven by a dog striking against a block secured to the said ring and revolving
with it. The cam plate and needle plate are held in position by suitable holders.
The needles slide out a little in advance of the yarn guide, and when out, the
cylinder needles draw their yarn and knit through their loops, leaving the connect-
ing thread behind the latch of an embroidery needle in the needle plate.
The instant the thread is secured behind the latch yarn guide, the driving cam
drives the embroidery yarn guides successively across the embroidery needles, and
holds them until they slide back with yarn in their hooks; the head of an em-
broidery needle is now in front of the cylinder needles, and the cylinder thread
placed behind the latch is thrown off the head of the needle upon the embroidery
yarn between the head of the needle and yarn guide; at this moment the driving
cam passes and releases the embroidery yarn guide, which is returned to its original
position by the spring; this action is repeated as cam ring and plate revolve.
When it is desired to knit on both sets of needles from the yarn guide to widen
or narrow a circular tube of knitting the driving block is turned half way round
to put the needles in the proper position; certain of the plate needles are arranged
to knit with the cylinder needles when narrowing is required, the needle to be
dispensed with is pushed back, and its loop taken off and placed on a cylinder
needle, the butt of the needle when pushed back being outside of the cam plate,
and out of the action of cams in the said plate, this operation is repeated until all
the plate needles are thrown back out of operation.
Widening is accomplished by needles placed in action one or more at a time; each
needle making the circular knitted fabric onc wale wider.
To produce the tuck work the driving block is in the same position as when
embroidering. The yarn guide plate and yarn standard being removed, and needles
placed in proper relation to each other, the cylinder yarn guide feeds cylinder
needles and leaves a portion of yarn between the said cylinder needles, behind the
latches of the plate needles a yarn guide is arranged in the rear of the cylinder
needles and over the horizontal needles to feed the extra thread to the plate
needles, and as they are drawn back the loop of yarn behind the latch is thrown
over the head of the needle to the inside of the fabric.
The object of another part of the said Invention is to produce on a rib knitting
machine vertical stripes or wales of embroidery, each wale being made from a
particular thread of colored yarn.
For this purpose a needle cylinder is attached to the bed plate, and the revolving
cam ring gives the needles in the said cylinder reciprocating motion. A bracket
attached to the cam ring supports studs securing a cross piece, and a dial and
cap on a stud are suspended from the said cross piece. The said cam cap
revolves with the stud the dial remaining stationary, being secured to cylinder
needles by grooves cut on its edge. The embroidery ring is held in position by
adjustable screws. On the upper side of the said ring are yarn guides receiving
motion from a pawl and cam.
Bobbin holders are secured to the aforesaid ring. The revolving yarn guide feeds.
the needles placing a portion of yarn behind the latches of the embroidery needles
having shorter latches than the other dial needles. The dial needles are arranged
to slide by cams in the cam cap when out, the yarn guide by the action of the said

page_text: pawl and cam crosses the embroidery needle and lays the yarn in the hook. On
the return of the said embroidery needle the loop of ordinary yarn laid behind
the latch is thrown off the needle head upon the embroidery yarn between the
needle head and guide, and the two yarns are interlocked, forming the vertical
embroidery stripe."
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said William Robert Lake in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 25th
October 1870.
WILLIAM ROBERT LAKE, of the Firm of Haseltine, Lake, & Co., Patent Agents,
Southampton Buildings, London. IMPROVEMENTS IN EMBROIDERY KNITTING, AND
IN MACHINERY THEREFOR, WHICH MACHINERY IS APPLICABLE FOR BOTH PLAIN AND
RIBBED WORK." A. communication from abroad by Charles James Appleton, of
Elizabeth, New Jersey, United States of America.
16
One object of this Invention is to produce plain knitting with embroidered
vertical stripes of any color, each stripe being made from separate yarns and worked
by particular needles into the fabric. It is applicable to all plain knitting machinery,
circular or straight, and it may be attached to machines having a number of feeds,
as Balmoral machines," producing horizontal stripes; the combination of the two
stripes, vertical and horizontal, producing plaid. I arrange the horizontal needles
to knit with, and when the cylinder needles knit both sets; I use yarn from the
same guide, the fabric knit may be widened or narrowed by taking needles out of
or putting in needles in the needle plate. By adding an extra yarn guide placed
over the horizontal needles in the rear of the cylinder needles, and another thread
arranged to knit running in the same direction as the cylinder thread, what is known
as tuck work will be knit.

page_text: The operation of this machine is as follows, that is to say-Work being placed
on the cylinder needles 7, 7, and the needle cylinder and the yarn guide p threaded
up, motion is given to the cam ring driving gear wheel causing the needles 7, 7, in
the cylinder b fixed to the bed plate a to slide up and down, and in their downward
motion to take yarn from the yarn guide p off of the revolving bobbin a. The
bobbin and yarn guide p revolve with the needle cam plate e inside of the
stationary embroidering yarns x, x. The stationary embroidery bobbins are placed
on holders h, k, and the yarn is drawn off perpendicularly through the eyelets over
them passing horizontally to the corresponding eyelets near the yarn standard j,
then directly to the embroidery yarn guides m. The standard j and yarn guides m, m,
are secured to the guide plate h, held in position by the plate holders i, i, and some
of the cylinder needles », r, each yarn guide m feeds yarn into a particular needle
located in its groove in the plate d, which is held in position by holders v, v, adjusted
by screws w, w, resting on cam ring c. The needles in the plate d receive recipro-
catory motion from the cam plate e driven by the dog f striking against the block
secured to the ring c and revolving with it. The cam plate e and needle plate d are
held in position by the holders q, q. The needles slide out a little in advance of
the yarn guide m, and when out the cylinder needles draw their yarn and knit
through their loops, leaving the connecting thread behind the latch of an embroidery
needle in the needle plate d. The instant the thread is secured behind the latch
yarn guide the driving cam o drives the embroidery yarn guides m, m, successively
across the embroidery needles, and holds them until they slide back with the yarn
in their hooks; the head of an embroidery needle is now in front of the cylinder
needles, and the cylinder thread placed behind the latch is thrown off the head of
the needle upon the embroidery yarn between the head of the needles and the yarn
guide m; at this moment the driving cam passes and releases the embroidery
yarn guide m, which is returned to its original position by the spring n; this action
is repeated as the cam ring c and plate e revolve.
When it is desired to knit on both sets of needles from the yarn guide p, to
widen or narrow a circular tube of knitting, the driving block g is turned half round
to put the needles 8, s, in proper position with the needles r, r; certain plate needles
are arranged to knit with the cylinder needles r, r. When narrowing is required
the needle to be dispensed with is pushed back and its loop taken off and placed
on a cylinder needle, the butt of the needle when pushed back being bent outside of
cam plate e and out of the action of cams in plate e; this operation is repeated until
all the plate needles s, s, are thrown back out of operation.
Widening is accomplished by needles 8, s, being placed in action one or more at
a time, each needle making the circular knitted fabric one wale wider.
To produce tuck work, the driving block g is in the same position as when
embroidering, the yarn guide plate and yarn standard being removed, and the
needles 8, 8, are placed in proper relation to the cylinder needles r, 1, the cylinder
yarn guide p feeds the cylinder needles r, 1, and leaves a portion of yarn between
the cylinder needles, behind the latches of the plate needles s, s; a yarn guide is
arranged in the rear of the cylinder needles and over the horizontal needles to
feed the extra thread y¹ to the plate needles s, 8, and as they are drawn back the
loop of yarn behind the latch is thrown over the head of the needle to the inside
of the fabric.
Figure 8 represents a plan of my embroidery. knitting machine applicable to
ribbed work.
Figure 9 represents a vertical central section thereof.
Figure 10 represents a portion of the dial, showing the manner in which it is
held or kept stationary by means of the grooves on its edge and the cylinder
needles.
A represents the bed plate, B the needle cylinder, C the cam ring, D. the dial,
E the cap, F, F, the brackets, G, G, the bracket studs, H, the cross piece, I the
cross piece stud, J the embroidery ring, K, K, the embroidery bobbin holders,
L, L, the embroidery ring adjustable screws, M, M, the embroidery yarn guides,

page_text: N, N, the embroidery yarn guide pawls, O the embroidery pawl cam, P, P, the
grooves on dial edge, the revolving yarn guide, R, R, the cylinder needles.
S, S, the dial embroidery needles, S¹, S¹, the other dial needles, having longer latches
than the embroidery needles, T the yarn guide attached to the dial cap, U the stud
on embroidery ring, to which the yarn guide M and pawl N are attached, W the
spring surrounding and controlling the stud.
The object of this part of my Invention is to produce on a rib knitting machine
vertical stripes or wales of embroidery, each wale being made from a particular
thread of colored yarn.
The needle cylinder B, being attached to the bed plate A, the revolving cam
ring C gives the needles R, R, in cylinder B a reciprocating motion. The bracket F
attached to the cam ring C supports the studs G, G, securing the cross piece H ;
the dial D and cap E on the stud I are suspended from the cross piece H. The
cam cap E revolves with the stud I, the dial D remaining stationary, secured to
the cylinder needles by grooves cut on its edge. The embroidery ring J is held
in position by the adjustable screws L, L. On the upper side of the ring J the
yarn guides M, M, are attached, receiving motion from the pawl N and cam O.
The bobbin holders K, K, are secured to the ring J. This machine operates as
follows The revolving yarn guide Q feeds the needles R, R, placing a portion
of the yarn behind the latches of the embroidery needles S, S, having shorter
latches than the other dial needles. The dial needles are arranged to slide by
cams in the cam cap E; when out, the yarn guide M by the action of pawl N and
cam O, crosses the embroidery needle S and lays the yarn in the hook. On the
return of the embroidery needle S, the loop of ordinary yarn, laid behind the latch,
is thrown off the needle head upon the embroidery yarn between the needle head
and guide, and the two yarns are interlocked, forming the vertical embroidery
stripe.
Having thus fully described the said Invention as communicated to me by my
foreign correspondent, and the manner of performing the same, I wish it understood
that I claim-
First. In a knitting machine, the combination of two independent sets of needles
and cams, arranged nearly at right angles to each other, whereby plain work is
produced by the joint operation of the two sets of needles as above specified.
Second. The combination of embroidery needles with cylinder needles, embroidery
yarn guides and operating mechanism, whereby the loop is laid behind the latch
to be thrown over upon and interlocked between the loops of embroidery ; the
parts operating together as above described.
Third. The combination of the cam ring, the needle cylinder, the cam plate.
the plate d, yarn guide driving cam, and the embroidery yarn guide, with the
needles 7, 7, and 8, s, operating together as above described.
Fourth. The combination of the yarn guide plate, the holders, and the needles r, 1,
operating together as above described.
Fifth. The combination of the needle cylinder, the needle plate, and needle plate
holders, operating together as above described.
Sixth. The forming of embroidery on knitted fabrics, by interlocking the
embroidery thread or yarn with and around the thread or yarn of the fabric,
whereby the thread or yarn of the fabric is entirely concealed, and the embroidery
thread or yarn is brought to the face of the fabric in the form of a wale, as above
set forth and for the purpose specified.
Seventh. The combination of the dial, having needles S and S¹, whose latches
are of different lengths, with the cam cap embroidery, ring pawls, cam yarn guides,
cam ring cylinder, and vertical needles, as above set forth and for the purpose
specified.
Eighth. The combination of the grooved edged dial, the cylinder, and the
needles, operating together as above set forth and for the purpose specified.
Ninth. The combination of the ring, the adjustable screws, and the cylinder,
operating together as above set forth and for the purpose specified.

page_text: Tenth. The combination of the cam ring, the embroidery ring, the pawls, the
cam, the yarn guides, and the needles S, S, operating together as above set forth
and for the purpose specified.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Robert Lake, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Twenty-fifth day of October, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and seventy-six.
W ROB. LAKE. (L.S.)
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