Improvements in and in Apparatus for the Manufacture of Fabrics Woven "on the Bias."
Year: 1896

page_text: Date of Application, 28th Oct., 1890
Complete Specification Left 21st July 1807 Accented 10th Cant
1007
Complete Specification Left, 21st July,
1807
Accepted,
20th Oct. 1030
Accepted, 18th Sept., 1907
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in and in Apparatus for the Manufacture of Fabrics
Woven "on the Bias."
I FRANK REDDAWAY, Managing Director of the Firm of F. Reddaway & Co.,
Limited, of Cheltenham Street, Pendleton, in the County of Lancaster, Manu-
facturers of Machine Belting and Hose, do hereby declare the nature of this
invention to be as follows:-
My said invention relates to the production of fabrics woven "on the bias"
that is to say, so woven that the weft lies at an angle other than a right angle with
the warp.
As is well known in many manufactures it is necessary in using cloth woven in
the ordinary manner to cut the material into strips or portions diagonally across
the width of the fabric and this is called cutting on the bias."
Examples of this are to be found in the cutting up of canvas into diagonal
portions to form hose piping, or in the cutting up of cut pile fabrics into diagonal
strips to form trimmings, edgings and the like.
The cutting up of fabrics in this manner entails both loss of time and waste
of material.
To obviate these disadvantages I weave the fabric in such a manner that when
cut straight across or along the piece the required diagonal or bias material is
obtained without special labour or waste.
To obtain this result I weave the weft into the warp diagonally across the warp
so that when the piece is cut straight across or along the required diagonal or bias
material is obtained.
The weaving apparatus or loom which I use for producing the said bias woven
cloth is to some extent of the ordinary construction but materially modified to
suit the conditions of diagonal weaving. For example the 'sley, instead of
extending at right angles to the warp ends is set diagonally across the warp at
the diagonal angle at which the weft is to lie. The sley is driven in the usual
manner from the crank shaft, the crank arms or connecting rods being of different
lengths to suit the angle of the sley when the crank shaft lies at right angles to
the warp as it will do for convenience sake in most cases. The picking arrange-
ments are applied so as to suit the angular position of the sley and shuttle race.
The arrangement of the shedding mechanism is also modified for the same pur-
poses and generally the loom or weaving apparatus is constructed in such a manner
as to meet the altered circumstances.
The improved cloth produced under my invention is suited not only for cutting
up into bias material but may be used for other purposes, for clothing and the
like, in place of the usual materials.
DL: 0
1000

page_text: Improvements in and in Apparatus for the Manufacture of Fabrics
Woven "on the Bias."
1 FRANK REDDAWAY, Managing Director of the Firm of F. Reddaway & Co.
Limited, of Cheltenham Street, Pendleton, in the County of Lancaster, Manu-
facturers of Machine Belting and Hose, do hereby declare the nature of this
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement and accompanying
drawings.
My said invention relates to the production of fabrics woven "on the bias"
that is to say, so woven that the weft lies at an angle other than a right angle with
the warp.
As is well known in many manufactures it is necessary in using cloth woven in
the ordinary manner to cut the material into strips or portions diagonally across
the width of the fabric and this is called cutting on the bias."
Examples of this are to be found in the cutting up of canvas into diagonal
portions to form hose piping, or in the cutting up of cut pile fabrics into diagonal
strips to form trimmings, edgings and the like.
The cutting up of fabrics in this manner entails both loss of time and waste
of material.
To obviate these disadvantages I weave the fabric in such a manner that when
cut straight across or along the piece the required diagonal or bias material is
obtained without special labour or waste.
To obtain this result I weave the weft into the warp diagonally across the warp
so that when the piece is cut straight across or along the required diagonal or bias
material is obtained.
The weaving apparatus or loom I use for producing the said bias woven cloth
is to some extent of the ordinary construction but modified to suit the conditions
of diagonal weaving.
Any person skilled in the construction of weaving mechanism would have no
difficulty in making a loom which would weave my improved bias cloth. I have
not therefore thought it necessary to give a detailed drawing of specific weaving
mechanism but have simply indicated the general arrangement of such mechanism
by the diagrammatic sketch plan Fig. 1 on the annexed sheet of drawings.
In the said fig. the part marked A indicates the sley which is supported in any
suitable or convenient manner, but instead of extending at right angles to the
warp B as usual, is set diagonally across the warp at the angle at which the weft C
is intended to lie. The sley A is driven in the usual manner from the crank
shaft D so as to beat up in line with the warps, the crank arms or connecting
rods E being of different lengths as shown to suit the angle of the sley relatively
to the crank shaft D. The crank shaft D will in most cases lie at right angles to
the warp as shown in the sketch, but this is not essential. The picking arrange-
ments are of the usual nature but are applied and fitted to suit the angular
position of the sley A and shuttle race. The healds F are of course arranged
parallel with the sley and the shedding mechanism is arranged to suit the angle
of the healds.
Generally the whole loom or weaving mechanism is constructed and arranged to
suit the altered circumstances."
In Fig. 1 the warp threads B are let off from the warp beam G at the back of
the loom, the diagonal fabric B¹ being coiled upon the taking up beam H at the
front of the loom, as it is woven. Fig. 2 is a line diagram showing more clearly

page_text: the relative positions of the warp and weft in the improved cloth woven on the
bias in the manner described.
Fig. 3. Any arrangement of the weaving mechanism might be used which will con-
veniently produce the diagonally woven fabric which constitutes the gist of my
invention. The improved cloth produced under my invention can be cut straight
across or along the piece, the required diagonally woven or bias material being
obtained without special labour and without waste. Not only is the improved
cloth of use for the purposes to which bias material is usually applied, but it may
also be used for clothing and the like in place of cloth of the usual manufacture.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said in-
vention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is:-
The new or improved "bias" cloth or material woven in the piece, diagonally
or "on the bias" in a loom of suitable construction, as herein before set forth.
Dated this 20th day of July 1897.
For the Applicant,
E. K. DUTTON & Co.,
5 John Dalton Street, Manchester, Chartered Patent Agents.