IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES,, MORE PAR- TICULARLY APPLICABLE FOR BUTTON HOLE WORK
Year: 1875

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Peter Jensen, of Chancery Lane, London, for
i
the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES,, MORE PAR-
TICULARLY APPLICABLE FOR BUTTON HOLE WORK."-A communication
from abroad by Gustav Kallmeyer, Engineer, and Edwin Schmidt,
Technical Manager, both of the Hamburg American Sewing,
Machine Company, Limited, late Pollack, Schmidt, and Company,,
Hamburg.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Peter Jensen at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
8th July 1875.
I, PETER JENSEN, of Chancery Lane, London, do hereby declare the;
nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES,
MORE PARTICULARLY APPLICABLE FOR BUTTON HOLE WORK," (a communication
to me from abroad by Gustav Kallmeyer, Engineer, and Edwin Schmidt,

page_text: Technical Manager, both of the Hamburg American Sewing Machine
Company, Limited, late Pollack, Schmidt, and Company, Hamburg,)
to be as follows:-
The needle bar receives its up-and-down motion from a grooved cam on
the driving spindle by means of a roller working in the cam groove and
fitted to a bell-crank lever or other suitable mechanism. The front
plate or up-and-down guide for the needlo bar receives a slight right
and left rocking movement round a fulcrum pin from a wheel formed with
a cam on its face or surface by means of a double-armed lever and a rod,
a spring keeping one end of the lever against the cam surface, the said
end of the lever having a roller mounted on it, the position of which is
adjustable so as to give more or less stroke to the lever, or so as not to
move it at all if the machine is not to be used for button hole work;
the wheel gears with a pinion on the driving spindle. The formation of
the stitch is as with the ordinary double lock stitch by the single
crossing of the two threads (from the needle and from the shuttle)!; but
in order to obtain an even button hole edge a thread brake or tension is
arranged immediately under the needle plate, and actuated by an
eccentric or cam. When the shuttle has nearly finished its extreme
stroke to the right this eccentric comes against a small lever which lifts
the brake away from the side of the shuttle so that the thread from the
shuttle can lay itself between both, but as soon as the projecting part of
the eccentric leaves the lover the brake is brought up against the side
of the shuttle; this action is repeated for each stitch. A needle plate
with tubular formation serves for the making of button holes.
The shuttle race is straight and the shuttle is actuated in a right and
left direction from a grooved cam by means of a roller working in the
cam groove and fitting on a lever, and by a connecting rod.
The feed or stitch is regulated by a double-armed lever, one end of
which by a regulating screw and slot at the opposite end can be placed
nearer to or further from an eccentric. A small lever on the first-
named end of the aforesaid larger double-armed lever is at one end
pushed against the feed bar, the other end being by a spring held up
against the eccentric.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Peter Jensen in the Great Seal Patent Office
on the 8th January 1876.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, PETER
JENSEN, of Chancery Lane, London, send greeting.
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.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Eighth day of July, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-five, in the
thirty-ninth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Hor heirs and suc-
cessors, give and grant unto me, the said Peter Jensen, Her special
licence, that I, the said Peter Jensen, my executors, adminis
trators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Peter Jensen,
my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter
during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make,
use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain
and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention
for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES, MORE PARTICULARLY APPLICABLE FOR
BUTTON HOLE WORK," (a communication to me from abroad by Gustav
Kallmeyer, Engineer, and Edwin Schmidt, Technical Manager, both of
the Hamburg American Sewing Machine Company, Limited, late
Pollack, Schmidt, and Company, Hamburg,) upon the condition
(amongst others) that I, the said Peter Jensen, my executors or
administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their or
one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was
to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal
Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately after
the date of the said Letters Patent.
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་་་་
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NOW KNOW YE that I, the said Peter Jensen, do hereby declare
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to
be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement, reference being had to the accompanying
Drawings, and to the letters of reference marked thereon, that is to
say-

page_text: The needle bar receives its up-and-down motion from a grooved cam
on the driving spindle by means of a roller working in the cam groove
and fitted to a bell-crank lever or other suitable mechanism. The front
plate or up-and-down guide for the needle bar receives a slight right
and left rocking movement round a fulcrum pin from a wheel formed
with a cam on its face or surface by means of a double-armed lever and
a rod, a spring keeping one end of the lever against the cam surface,
the said end of the lever having a roller mounted on it, the position of
which is adjustable so as to give more or less stroke to the lever, or so
as not to move it at all if the machine is not to be used for button hole
work; the wheel gears with a pinion on the driving spindle. The
formation of the stitch is as with the ordinary double lock stitch by the
single crossing of the two threads (from the needle and from the
shuttle); but in order to obtain an even button hole edge a thread brake
or tension is arranged immediately under the needle plate and actuated
by an eccentric or cam. When the shuttle has nearly finished its
extreme stroke to the right this eccentric comes against a small lever
which lifts the brake away from the side of the shuttle so that the thread
from the shuttle can lay itself between both, but as soon as the pro-
jecting part of the eccentric leaves the lever the brake is brought up
against the side of the shuttle; this action is repeated for each stitch.
A needle plate with tubular formation serves for the making of button
holes.
The shuttlo race is straight and the shuttle is actuated in a right and
left direction from a grooved cam by means of a roller working in the
cam groove and fitting on a lever, and by a connecting rod.
The feed or stitch is regulated by a double-armed lever, one end of
which by a regulating screw and slot at the opposite end can be placed
nearer to or further from an eccentric, a small lever on the first-named
end of the aforesaid larger double-armed lever is at one end pushed
against the feed bar, the other end being by a spring held up against the
eccentric.
Figure 1 is an elevation of a machine constructed according to this
Invention.
TA

page_text: Figure 3 is a back view of the machine.
Figures 4 to 8 show details.
e¹ is a driving pulley and f is a fly wheel, both are fastened on the
spindley which works in the bearings y¹ and y" under the plate P. m is
the needle bar which receives its up-and-down motion from a grooved
cam A on the driving spindle y by means of a roller working in the
groove of the cam A and fitted to the lower end of a bell-crank lever B
turning on a fulcrum pin I. The needle bar m has a pin (Figures 1
and 1"); on this pin a block 6" fits, which works in the slot formed in
the end of the lever B. The front plate 6 or up-and-down guide for the
needle bar m is so arranged that when the machine is to be used for
button holo work it, the front plate b, may be made to receive a slight
right and left rocking movement round a fulcrum pin a.
This move-
ment is obtained from a wheel n (Figures 3, 5, and 6), with a cam
formed on its face or surface; this wheel n is on a spindle n¹, which
through means of the toothed wheels e and e* (the latter being fast on
the driving spindle) obtains motion from the driving spindle. The
reciprocating right and left movement is produced by means of a
double-armed lever d turning on a fulcrum pin j and a rod c, the
tension of a spring & keeping one end of the lever d against the cam
surface, the said end of the lever d having a roller k (Figure 3) which
is mounted on a screw pin v, and by turning the latter the position of
the roller can be adjusted so as to give more or less stroke to the
lever d, or so as not to move it at all if the machine is not to be used
for button hole work. The shape of the cam is indicated by the two
Figures 6, which are two views in the directions K, L, and M, N,
Fig. 5. The formation of the stitch is as with the ordinary double
lock stitch by the single crossing of the two threads (from the needle
and from the shuttle) ; but in order to obtain an even button hole edge
a thread brake or tension i (Figure 2, and shown separately at Figure 7),
is arranged immediately under the needle plate q, and is regulated by
an eccentric or cam 9 which is fixed to the driving spindle y, see
Figs. 1 and 4 the needle plate q is shown separately at Figure 8, that is,

page_text: from the side, from below, and from above. When the shuttle C has
nearly finished its extreme stroke to the right the eccentric g comes
against a small lever h, Figures 1, 2, and 4, which lever lifts the brake
or tension i away from the side of the shuttle C so that the thread from
the shuttle can lay itself between both, but as soon as the projecting
part of the eccentric g leaves the lever h the brake i is brought up
against the side of the shuttle C; this action is repeated for each stroke.
The needle plate with tubular formation serves for the making of button
holes.
The shuttle race D is straight, and the shuttle C is actuated in a
right and left direction from a grooved cam E on the driving spindle y
by means of a roller F' working in the cam groove and fitted to a lever F
having its fulcrum at H, and by the connecting rod G.
The feed or length of stitch is regulated by a double-armed lever
which turns round the fulcrum l', and the back end of which by a
regulating screw t (Figures 2 and 4), which screw t fits on the opposite
end of the lever and is adjustable in a slanting slot in the plate P,
Figure 2, can be placed nearer to or further from an eccentric w
(Figures 1 and 2); the eccentric to is fixed to the driving spindle y.
Figure 2* is an elevation of the lever 7, which at the eccentric end is fitted
with a small lever z, one end of which is pushed against the feed bar s,
its opposite end being by a spring held up against the eccentric w.
Having now described the nature of the said Invention, I declare
that I claim,―
First. Giving the needle bar m a rocking as well as a sliding motion,
and the mode of and mechanism here set forth for imparting such
rocking motion for sewing machines applicable to button hole work.
Second. The right and left working shuttle C with straight shuttle
race D parallel to the driving spindle y in a shuttle machine with one
needle, all arranged substantially as set forth.
Third. The thread brake i in combination with the shuttle C, sub-
stantially as set forth.
Fourth. The feed or stitch regulator, consisting of the lever 7, lever z,
screw t, and slot, in combination with an eccentric or cam w, sub-
stantially as set forth.

page_text: Fifth. In sewing machines with one needle, the right and left
working shuttle, the straight shuttle race, rocking needle bar, thread
brake, and stitch regulator, all combined and operating as set forth.
In witness whereof, I, the said Peter Jensen, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Eighth day of January, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-six.
PETER JENSEN. (L.S.)