IMPROVEMENTS IN WAX-THREAD SEWING MACHINES
Year: 1881

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Robert Lake, of the Firm of Haseltine, Lake,
& Co., Patent Agents, Southampton Buildings, London, for an Invention of
"IMPROVEMENTS IN WAX-THREAD SEWING MACHINES." A communication
from abroad by George W. Copeland, of Boston, Massachusetts, United States
of Amerion
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Robert Lake at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 21st June 1881.
WILLIAM ROBERT LAKE, of the Firm of Haseltine, Lake, & Co., Patent Agents,
Southampton Buildings, London. "IMPROVEMENTS IN WAX-THREAD SEWING
MACHINES." [A communication from abroad by George W. Copeland, of Boston,
Massachusetts, United States of America.]
This Invention relates to improvements in wax-thread sewing machines, and is
herein described as organized in or applied to a machine for sewing the out sole of
a boot or shoe to the upper and in-sole, by a line of stitches passing from the
exterior of the out-sole, or from a channel therein through the upper and in-sole,
making what has been known as the "McKay" sewed boot or shoe.
Machines constructed according to my Invention comprise a horn capable of
revolution upon which the work is supported during the sewing, stitch-forming
devices, a needle-feed so-called, a presser-foot as hereinafter described, connecting
mechanism hereinafter described, whereby the presser-foot and needle-bar govern
the position of the cast-off, and improved mechanism for operating the whirl.
The said Invention also embraces various details in construction, and provides
means for an improvement in the method of sewing, and also for movements
whereby the length of stroke of the needle-bar is determined by the position of the
presser-foot, and for movements whereby the cast-off bar is adjusted automatically
by the needle-bar and presser-foot.
In carrying the said Invention into practice, I provide a frame which is mounted
on three legs, and its upper portion or neck is curved. The front of the main
portion of the frame is provided with two brackets, preferably upon the left hand
side, which furnish supports for the horn, and for a portion of the whirl-operating

page_text: mechanism. The top of the frame has a table, to which is bolted a frame which
provides the bearings for the main shaft of the machine, and the needle, cast-off,
needle-feed, presser-foot operating mechanism, and a portion of the mechanism
operating the whirl.
The main shaft has bearings in brackets, and is revolved by means of a loose
clutch-pulley which is arranged to slide upon the shaft, and another clutch-pulley
fastened to the shaft, and against which the loose pulley is moved by means of a
sliding block, rod, or sleeve, from which projects a yoke, a bent lever connecting
with the pulley, a rod and a lever or treadle. A spring automatically disengages
the loose pulley from the fast one upon the removal of the foot from the lever or
treadle. The main shaft carries at its rear end a bevel gear-wheel for the operating
of the whirl, and here I desire to state that I may use any suitable thread-feeding
device for feeding or presenting the thread to the hook of the needle, and that I do
not confine myself to the specific mechanism herein described for so doing
although the mechanism herein set forth will answer very admirably. This gear-
wheel operates the whirl in the upper end of the horn, giving it a movement
forward and back for each reciprocation of the needle by means of a bevel
gear wheel, a rod which is supported by a bracket and a step, another bevel gear-
wheel at the lower end of the rod, bevel and spur gearing, a spur wheel, n
shaft, a cam, a rocking segmental gear-wheel pivoted to the bracket, its
arm connecting it with the cam, a small gear-wheel which incshes with tho
segmental gearing, and is revolved forward and back from two thirds to three
quarters of a revolution thereby, a vertical rod, a bevel gear-wheel, a horizontal
rod, other bevel gear wheels, and an inclined rod in the horn.
The cast-off is adjusted by friction mechanism, consisting of a block which is
loose on the cast-off and needle-bars, a block which is in the frame of the machine,
and is held against the cast-off bar by a spring-plate and screw, thereby exerting
n friction thereon, a block upon the needle and cast-off bars, having a friction plug
bearing upon the needle-bar, the cast-off bar being arranged to move freely therein.
The mechanism for varying the stroke of the needle bar by the change in position
of the presser-foot consists of a stop which is located above the fulcrum of the
needle lever, and which projects horizontally from another block fastened to a rod
by a pin. The block has projecting backwardly therefrom a guide, upon which a
roll attached to an arm projecting upwardly from the lover rides, and which serves
to restrain or partially restrain the fulcrum of the needle-lever from falling during
a portion of the movement of the lever.
The needle-lever is operated by a cam-groove in a disc; its fulcrum is on a
sliding sleeve, and its end is connected with a block made fast to the needle-bar by
a link. The sliding sleeve is adapted to move or slide in the rod a limited distance,
is provided with a stop which is arranged to come in contact with the stationary
stop, and is connected with the presser-foot bar by a steadying arm which bears
or slides upon the presser-foot bar. An adjustable sleeve upon the presser-foot-bar
carries a stop, against which a bracket or arın projecting from the sliding sleeve
shall come in contact, and which, by the movement of the presser-foot, adjusts and
regulates the movement of the needle-lever. The presser-foot is forced against the
work by a spring upon the rod between an adjustable collar and a bracket pro-
jecting from a sleeve which is secured to the presser-foot-bar by means of a set-screw.
This machine employs a needle-feed as distinguished from the claw-feed of the
ordinary sole-sewing machine, and to provide it the cast-off bar and needle-bar are
provided with bearings in the head which is pivotted to a bracket, and which is
swung or oscillated upon said pivot at given intervals by means of a cam in a cam-
disc, and upon the main shaft of the machine, a crank which takes hold of the
lower end of the swinging head, a shaft, and suitable mechanism for connecting the
cam with the shaft, consisting preferably of the devices herein described, whereby
the movement of the head may be increased or diminished, according as it is desired
to obtain a long or short feed. This connecting mechanism consists of a. lever
pivotted to a bracket projecting upwardly from the top of the machine, having a

page_text: recess for receiving a sliding block, and reciprocated by the cam and another lever,
one arm attached to the shaft and the sliding block. This sliding block is arranged
to be adjusted in the said recess, and when moved toward the shaft the feed is
shorter, and when moved toward the arm the feed is longer.
The cast-off bar is lifted by means of a block on the needle-bar, and by a block
fastened to the cast-off' bar, the latter block being in position to allow the cast-off
to descend to the lowest position at which it can be used; and a block which is
positively moved by the operating mechanism allows the cast-off to be moved
therein freely; also the friction mechanism in the frame operates at certain times
to move the cast-off'; also the friction-block attached to the needle-bar, and the
block attached to the cast-off bar serve to lower the cast-off bar. The position of
the friction-block upon the needle bar is changed automatically during the upward
stroke of the needle-bar and cast-off bar, by contact with a block which is held
stationary while the needle-bar continues to rise, and thereby, upon the downward
movement of the needle in contact with the block, moves the cast-off to the surface
of the work. As it is necessary however for these ends to descend before the cast-
off in order that its bar may be uncovered, the cast-off bar is retained by one
friction block in its highest position, while the needle bar is moved downwardly a
short distance; the cast-off bar is then caused to descend simultaneously with tho
needle-bar, by the compensating block which moving down with the needle bar
comes in contact with one of the other blocks.. This compensating block is also
placed in position by a block upon its upward movement, so that the space between
it and another block determines the extent of the downward movement of the
needle before the cast-off bar is operated. The friction block also holds the cast-
off in position upon the work until it is positively lifted upon the upward
movement of the needle-bar by two of the blocks.
I have now described the mechanism whereby the needle is operated, and the
length of its stroke automatically controlled by the presser-foot, and whereby also
it is made to feed the stock. I will now explain the method of operating the
presser foot, and the connections between it and the cast-off, whereby the presser-
foot is lifted a uniform distance from the work regardless of its thickness, the
cast-off properly adjusted to the variation in the stroke of the needle, and the
presser raised to permit the work being placed on the horn.
The sliding block on the needle and cast-off bars is connected with a lever by
means of links, and the lever serves to lift the presser-foot in order that the work
may be placed upon the horn, and it is secured to the end of a short shaft which
acts as a fulcrum, and also is connected with the sleeve attached to the presser-foot
bar, or to its bracket by a sliding block, the block being attached to its sleeve or
bracket by means of a screw, and being arranged to slide in a recess in the lever
as the lever is lifted or depressed.
The presser-foot is operated by means of this lever, which, or that portion of it
connecting the shaft with the presser-foot bracket just described, is the equivalent
of a crank, a cam in a cam-disc on the main shaft, a bent lever which has a bearing
upon the end of the short shaft, and which by an arm connects with the cam, and
by another arm which preferably is divided into two parts to support one or more
spring-pawls with another arm which is fastened to the shaft, and has at its upper
end a notched segment with which the pawl or pawls engage to move the arm,
and consequently the shaft and presser. Upon lifting the presser-foot by means of
the lever the segment is located in its proper position; and upon the operation of
the machine the pawl or pawls engage with the teeth of the segment and move the
presser-foot a uniform distance from the surface of the work. If thin work is being
sewed the segment will be moved but a very little, and the pawls will engage
with the teeth near the front end, and if it is thick work the segment will have
been moved so that the pawls will engage with the teeth near its centre or rear
end; but wherever the pawls engage with the segment the distance that the
segment is moved after said engagement is a uniform one whether on thin or on
thick work.
-

page_text: "
To enable the needle-lever-fulcrum to be returned from the position which it
occupies at the completion of the upward movement of the needle to its highest
position, while the needle is at its highest point without moving the needle
downward, I connect the lever with the sliding sleeve by a bolt, which is also the
fulcrum, and provide it with a large bearing in the lever and a yielding movement
against a spring, thereby causing sufficient friction between the lever and sliding
sleeve to prevent the lever from moving easily on its fulcrum, whilo the needle-
cam is lifting the sliding sleeve and lever upward, the real fulcrum of the lever
during this movement being at its needle-bar end. This brings the sliding sleeve
stop in contact with the stationary stop, the roll taking a position at the top of the
inclino, the stops remaining in contact during the downward movement of the
needle.
In order that the fulcrum of the needle-lever may not fall too quickly upon its
downward movement on the reversal of the needle stroke, the roll comes in contact
with the incline and riding down the same restrains the falling movement of
the fulcrum sufficiently to permit the needle to have an upward movement.
In order that the distance which the presser-foot lifts above the stock may be
increased or diminished, and also in order that the pawl or pawls may be lifted
from the segment notches upon their reverse movement, I pivot a plate to the
shaft and provide it with an inclined and horizontal guide, upon which a roll rides
when the pawl or pawls are not in contact with the notches; the roll is fastened to
a lever, and when two pawls are used, this lever by means of a short shaft on which
the pawis oscillate is connected with another lever, and pins or arms projecting
from the pawls rest on these levers, the horizontal portions of the guide; the roll
and the levers therefore hold the pawls from the notches until the incline is
renched, when the roll riding down it allows the pawls to drop into place, and upon
the reverse movement the guide and roll serve to lift the pawls and hold them
lifted;
to change the position of the incline will vary the point at which the pawls
engage the notches, and will therefore vary the extent of movement of the segment
and consequently the pressor; to effect this the plate is made movable on its pivot
and is adjustably fastened to the frame in any desirable position by means of a
bolt, thereby enabling the incline to be moved horizontally in relation to the
pawls.
It is desirable to provide the block, which is loose on the cast-off, and needle-
bars with a greater movement than that of the presser bar, say, from 2 to 1 of the
presser-bar, or from 2%, to 1, and to give it this increased movement I connect it
with the lever instead of directly with the presser_bar.
The method of feeding the thread from the spool to the whirl is the same as in
the ordinary sole-sewing machine employing a whirl. The whirl is provided with a
movement like that described in the well known " McKay" and "Matthias" machines,
that is, it has a movement forward and back for cach reciprocation of the neodle,
but as the mechanism for operating the same is different, requiring only that a
small portion of the operative mechanism be brought to rest, and that portion
being very light, it is possible to run the whirl at as light speed as it is possible to
sew without any damage to the parts.
It is obvious that the amount of thread required to sew a loop-stitch seam in a
shoe-sole is equal to three times the length of the line of stitching and twice the
thickness of tho leather through which the thread is passed, because in the
completed seam there is a double line of thread upon one side and a single line
upon the other, and a double line of thread through the stock.
My mechanism is so perfectly arranged that I am able to conform to the above
rule. This is owing to the needle-feed and to the fact that the stitch is drawn on
the spool side, while the presser-foot rests upon the sole of the shoe and clamps it
down upon the horn with a pressure that varies slightly with the thickness of the
stock and after the feed has taken place; the thread upon the spool side therefore
is clamped between tho stock and the horn, and consequently receives a variable
tension as well as the thread on the stitch side, and consequently the difficulty

page_text: arising from having a practically constant tension on one side and a practically
variable tension on the other is overcome.
The advantage of the whirl-operating mechanism over that heretofore commonly
used consists in the arrangement whereby as little weight of moving parts and as
little disadvantage of leverage and as great smoothness of action is obtained as
possible.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed
by the said William Robert Lake in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
21st December 1881.
WILLIAM ROBERT LAKE, of the Firm of Haseltine, Lake, & Co., Patent Agents,
Southampton Buildings, London. "IMPROVEMENTS IN WAX-THREAD SEWING-
MACHINES." A communication from abroad by George W. Copeland, of Boston,
Massachusetts, United States of America.
This Invention relates to improvements in wax-thread sewing-machines, and is
herein described as organized in or applied to a machine for sewing the out-sole
of a boot or shoe to the upper and in-sole by a line of stitches passing from tho
exterior of the out-sole, or from a channel therein through the upper and in-sole,
making what has been known as the "M"Kay" sewed boot or shoe. The said
Invention comprises a horn which is capable of revolution, and upon which the
work is supported during the sewing, stitch-forming devices, or mechanism, a
needle-feed so termed, a presser-foot connecting mechanism hereinafter described,
whereby the presser-foot and needle-bar govern the position of the cast-off' and
improved mechanism for operating the whirl, as hereinafter described.
The said Invention also comprises various details in construction, and an
improvement in the method or manner of sewing hereinafter described; it also
comprises movements whereby the length of stroke of the needle-bar is determined
by the position of the presser-foot, and movements whereby the cast-off bar is
adjusted automatically by the needle-bar and presser-foot.
My Invention is illustrated in the accompanying Drawings, in which
Figure 1 is a front elevation of my improved machine, and
Figure 2 is an elevation of the right hand side of the same.
Figure 3 is a detail view of a portion of the whirl operating mechanism.
Figure 4 is a front elevation of the head or upper part of the said machine
drawn to an enlarged scale, and
Figure 5 is a vertical section thereof on the line y, y, Figure 4.
Figure 6 is a transverse section on the line X, X, Figure 4.
Figure 7 is a transverse section on the line 2, 2, Figure 4, showing the method of
exerting friction on the cast-off bar.

page_text: Figure 6 is an elevation drawn to an enlarged scale of the right hand side of the
upper part of the machine.
Figure 9 illustrates a portion of the whirl operating mechanism, and
Figure 10 is an elevation of a portion thereof.
Figure 11 is an elevation drawn to an enlarged scale of the left hand side of the
upper part of the machine.
Figure 12 is a vertical section on the line u, u, Figure 13, showing in elevation
a portion of the feed-mechanism.
Figure 13 is a plan, drawn to an enlarged scale, of the upper part of the
machinc.
Figure 14 represents in elevation on an enlarged scale a portion of the mechanism
for operating tho presser.
Figure 15 is a front elevation representing the position of the parts at the
commencement of the feed.
Figure 16 is a front elevation representing the position of the parts at the
termination of the feed.
Figure 17 is an elevation partly in section of the parts in front of the line t, t,
Figure 13.
Figure 18 is a vertical section on the line o, o, Figure 14.
Figure 19 is a perspective view of a portion of the devices for lifting and varying
the lift of the presser-foot.
A represents the frame of the machine, shewn clearly in Figures 1 and 2. It
is mounted upon three legs a, and its upper portion or neck a¹ is curved. The
front of the main portion of the said frame is provided with two brackets a³, a³,
preferably upon the left hand side of the machine, which brackets furnish supports
for the horn and for a portion of the whirl operating mechanism. The top of the
frame has a table a to which is bolted the frame as that provides the bearings for
the main shaft of the machine, and the needle-cast off, the needle-feed, the presser-
foot, their operating mechanism, and a portion of the mechanism for operating
the whirl.
B is the main shaft; this shaft has bearings in the brackets aº, a7, of the
frame a³, and is revolved by means of the loose clutch-pulley b, which is arranged
to slide upon the said shaft and the clutch-pulley b' fastened to the said shaft.
Against this pulley b₁ the loose pulley is moved by means of a sliding block, rod, or
sloeve b², from which projects the yoke b³, the bent lever b connecting the pulley
with the rod 65, and the lever or treadle 6 pivoted at 67. The spring 6 auto-
matically disengages the loose pulley from the fast one upon the removal of the
foot from the lever or treadle.
The main shaft carries at its rear end the bevel gear-wheel C for operating the
whirl; and here I desire to state that I may use any suitable thread-feeding device
for feeding or presenting the thread to the hook of the needle, and that I do not
confine myself to the specific mechanism herein described for so doing, although
such mechanism will answer in a very satisfactory manner.
The said gear-
wheel C operates the whirl in the upper end of the horn C, and imparts to it a
forward and backward movement at each reciprocation of the needle by means of
the bevel gear-wheel C', the rod C supported by the bracket C³, and the step C",
the bevel gear-wheel C³ at the lower end of the rod, the bevel and spur gear-
wheel C, the spur wheel C7, the shaft C8, the cam C, the rocking segmental
rack Co, pivoted, as shown, to the bracket a³, the arm C connecting it with the
cam, the small toothed wheel C¹³ which gears with the said segmental rack, and is
revolved forward and backward from two thirds to three quarters of a revolution
thereby the vertical rod CIS, the bevel gear-wheels C, C¹³, the horizontal
rod C, the bevel gear wheels C, Cs, and the inclined rod C19, in the horn C*.
The cast-off D is adjusted by friction mechanism, consisting of the block & loose
on the cast-off and needle-bars, and a block which is in the frame of the machine
(see Figure 7) and is held against the cast-off bar by the spring-plated, and
screw d³ thereby exerting friction thereon; the block upon the needle and cast-off

page_text: bars having a friction-plug bearing upon the needle-bar and the cast off-bar being
arranged to move freely therein. The mechanism for varying the stroke of the
needle-bar by the change in position of the presser-foot consists of the stop E,
which is located above the fulcrum e of the needle-lever e', and projects horizontally
from a block, fastened to the rod es by a pin or screw c¹. This block has
projecting rearwardly therefrom an incline or inclined guide e, shown in
clevation in Figure 17, upon which a roller eª, attached to the arm e', projecting
upwardly from the lever et rides, and which serves to restrain or partially restrain
the fulcrum of the needle-lever from falling during a portion of the movement of
the lover.
The needle-lever is operated by the cam-groove E¹ in the disc e³. The fulcrum e
is on the sliding sleeve e³, and its end e¹o is connected by the link e", with tho
block e¹¹, made fast to the needle bar E. This sliding sleeve is adapted to move
or slide on the rod e³ a limited distance, is provided with the stop E³, which is
arranged to come in contact with the stationary stop E, as hereinafter described,
and is connected with the presser-foot bar E by the steadying arm e¹³, which
bears or slides upon the said bar. The adjustable sleeve e upon the presser-foot-
bar carries a stop e", against which the bracket or arm e¹ projecting from the
sliding sleeve comes in contact, and which by the movement of the presser-foot
adjusts and regulates the movement of the needle-lever. The presser-foot is forced
against the work by the spring e", arranged upon the rod es between the
adjustable collar e¹ and the bracket e", projecting from the sleeve c20, which is
secured to the presser-foot-bar by means of a set-screw.
My improved machine employs a needle-feed as distinguished from the claw-
feed of the ordinary sole sewing machine, and for this purpose the cast-off bar E
and needle-bar are provided with bearings in the head F, which is pivoted at f to
the bracket aº, and is swung or oscillated upon the said pivot at given intervals
by means of a cam at f', in the cam disc fupon the main shaft of the machine,
the crank f³, which takes hold of the lower end of the swinging head, the shaft f³,
and suitable mechanism for connecting the aforesaid cam at f' with the shaft,
consisting preferably of the devices herein described, whereby the movement of the
hend may be increased or diminished according to whether it is desired to obtain a
long or short feed. This connecting mechanism consists of the lover f³, pivoted
at foto a bracket projecting upwardly from the top of the machine, and having a
recess f for receiving the sliding block f³, and reciprocated by the cam and
another lever fº, one arm attached to the shaft f, and the other arm to the
sliding blocks. This sliding block is arranged to be adjusted in the recess, in
such a manner that when the said block is inoved toward the shaft f, the feed
will be shorter, and when moved toward the arm the feed will be longer.
It will be observed that the cast-off bar is lifted by means of the block ell on
the needle-bar, and by a block fastened to the said cast-off bar, the last named
block being arranged in such a position as to allow the cast-off to descend to the
lowest position at which it can be used, and that a block which is positively moved
by the operating mechanism allows the cast-off to be moved therein freely. It
will also be observed that the friction mechanism in the frame operates at certain
times to move the cast-off, and that a friction block attached to the needle-bar and
a block attached to the cast-off bar serve to lower the latter. The position of the
said friction-block upon the needle-bar is changed automatically during the upward
stroke of the said needle-bar and the cast-off bar by contact with the block d which
is held stationary while the needle-bar continues to rise, and thereby upon the
downward movement of the needle into contact with the block moves the
cast-off to the surface of the work. As it is necessary however for these parts to
descend before the cast-off in order that its bar may be uncovered, the cast-off bar
is retained by the friction-block in the frame of the machine in its highest position,
while the needle-bar is moved downwardly a short distance; the cast-off bar is
then caused to descend simultaneously with the said needle-bar by the compensating
or-friction-block on the needle-bar, which on moving down with the needle-bar

page_text: comes in contact with the block on the cast-off bar. This compensating block is
also placed in position by the block d upon its upward movement, so that the space
between it and the block upon the cast-off bar determines the extent of the
downward movement of the needle before the said cast-off bar is operated. The
friction-block in the frame of the machine also holds the cast-off in position upon
the work until it is positively lifted upon the upward movement of the needle-bar
by the block e and another block.
I have now described the mechanism whereby the needle is operated, and the
length of its stroke automatically controlled by the presser-foot, and whereby also
it is made to feed the stock. I will now explain the method of operating the presser-
foot and the connections between it and the cast-off, whereby the said presser-foot
is lifted a uniform distance from the work regardless of its thickness, the cast-off
properly adjusted to the variation in the stroke of the needle, and the presser
raised to permit the work to be placed on the horn.
The sliding block d on the needle and cast-off bars is connected with the lever g
by means of the links g¹, and the said lover serves to lift the presser-foot in order
that the work may be placed upon the horn. This lever is secured to the end of
the short shaft g² which acts as a fulcrum, and is also connected with the sleeve 20
attached to the presser-foot-bar, or to its bracket 1 by the sliding block g³, the
block which is attached to the said sleeve or bracket by means of the screw g^, and
is arranged to slide in the recess g³ in the said lever as the same is lifted or
depressed.
The presser foot is operated by means of this lever, which (or that portion of it
connecting the shaft g² with the presser-foot bracket just described) is the equivalent
of a crank, the cam at g in the cam disc g' on the main shaft, the bent lever g³,
which has a bearing upon the end of the short shaft g2, and by the arm connects
with the said cam, and by the arm go, which is preferably divided into two parts
to support one or more spring pawls g¹ with the arm g, that is fastened to the
shaft g, and has at its upper end the notched segment g13 with which the said
pawl or pawls engage to move the arm, and consequently the shaft and presser.
Upon lifting the presser-foot by means of the lever g, the segment is located in
its proper position, and upon the operation of the machine the pawl or pawls
engage with the teeth of the said segment and inove the presser-foot a uniform
distance from the surface of the work. If thin work is being sewn the segment
will be moved but slightly, and the pawls will engage with the teeth near the
front end g, and if thick work is being sewn the said segment will be moved so
that the pawls will engage with the teeth near its centre or rear end; but wherever
the pawls engage with the said segment, the distance that the latter is moved after
such engagement is uniform whether thin or thick work is being sown.
In operation the presser-foot is lifted by the lever e', the work placed upon the
horn, the presser-foot then allowed to rest upon the work, and the segment properly
located. The machine then being put in operation the needle commences to
descend, followed by the cast-off, which stops when it reaches the work, while
the needle pierces the same and enters the horn sufficiently to allow the barb to
receive the thread which the whirl throws into the hook; the needle then rises,
drawing the thread up into the work until its point is just above the level of the
top of the horn, the presser-foot rising slightly at the same time in order that
the work may clear the top of the horn by being lifted against the presser-foot by
the upward movement of the said needle and thread. Then the feed takes place, tho
presser-foot again rising or boing lifted for the purpose of clearing the work, while
the needle cast-off and work move horizontally; the presser-foot then returns to
the work, clamping it firmly upon the horn, and the needle again rises; the cast
off covers the barb as it leaves the work, and then rises with the needle, thereby
dropping the loop and allowing the bight of the thread to be drawn through it,
while the barb is prevented from catching it. The needle and cast-off continue
their upward movement to their original position preparatory to taking another
stitch. The presser-foot remains in its raised position during the horizontal move-

page_text: ment of the needle, and then again descends upon the work, holding it firmly
during the upward movement of the needle and cast-off, and while the stitch is
being formed, and just before the needle reaches the highest point of its shortest
stroke, the fulcrum of the needle lever comes to rest by the contact of the stop 610
on the sliding sleeve with the stop on the presser-foot bar, and thereby governs the
length of the thread used for the stitch by the thickness of the stock; for when
thin work is being sewn the presser-foot is lifted the least from the horn, and
therefore places the presser-bar stop at its greatest distance from the needle lever
fulcrum, thereby allowing the fulcrum to fall sufficiently to shorten the stroke of
the lever. If thicker work is being sewn the presser-bar is lifted from the horn
correspondingly, and the fulcrum has a less distance to fall, and consequently the
stroke of the lever is longer, the ratio of increase of the throw of the needle-bar
being two to one of the increase in the thickness of the stock.
To enable the needle-lever fulcrum to be returned from the position which it
occupies at the completion of the upward movement of the needle to its highest
position while the needle is at its highest point without moving the latter down-
ward, I connect the lever with the sliding sleeve by a bolt H, which serves also as
the fulcrum e, and provide it with a large bearing in the lever, and a yielding
movement against the spring 7 (see Figure 6), thereby causing sufficient friction
between the lever and the sliding sleeve to prevent the said lever from moving
easily on its fulcrum while the needle-cam is lifting the sliding sleove and lever
upward, the real fulcrum of the lever during this movement being at its needle-bar
end. This brings the sliding sleeve stop E³ into contact with the stop E, the
roller taking a position at the top of the incline e³, the stops remain in contact
during the downward movement of the needle.
In order that the fulcrum of the needle-lever may not fall too quickly in its
downward movement on the reversal of the needle's stroke, the roller e comes in
contact with the incline, and, riding down the same, restrains the falling movemont
of the said fulcrum sufficiently to permit the needle to have an upward movement.
In order that the distance which the prosser-foot rises above the stock may be
increased or diminished, and also that the pawl or pawls gl may be lifted from
the segment-notches upon their reverse movement, 1 pivot the plato M to tho
shaft and provide it with an incline and horizontal guide m upon which the
roller m¹ rides or travels when the said pawl or pawls are not in contact with
the notches; this roller is fastened or secured to a lever m³, and when two pawls
are used the said lever is connected by means of a short shaft on which the said
pawls oscillate with another lever m³, and the pins or arms m* projecting from
the pawls rest on these levers (see Figures 14 and 19); the horizontal portions
of the guide, the roller, and the levers therefore, hold the pawls out of the
notches until the incline is reached, when the roller riding or travelling down
it allows the said pawls to drop into place, and upon the reverse movement
the said guide and roller serve to lift the pawls and hold them in a raised position.
The changing of the position of the incline will vary the point at which the
pawls engage with the notches, and will therefore vary the extent of movement
of the segment, and consequently the presser; to effect this the plate M is made
moveable on its pivot, and is adjustably fastened to the frame in any desirablo
position by means of a bolt, thereby enabling the incline to be moved horizontally
in relation to the pawls.
It is desirable to provide the block d with a greater movement than that of the
presser-bar, say, from 2 to 1 of the said presser-bar, or from 2', to 1, and to give
it this increased movement I connect the said block to the lever e¹ instead of
directly to the presser-bar.
The method of feeding the thread from the spool to the whirl is the same as in
the ordinary sole-sewing machine employing a whirl. The whirl is provided with
a movement similar to that described in the well known McKay and Matthias
machines, that is to say, it has a forward and backward movement at each recipro-
cation of the needle; but as the mechanism for operating the same is different, and

page_text: only necessitates a small and very light portion of the operative mechanism being
brought to rest, it is possible to run by the said whirl at as high speed as it is
possible to sew without any damage to the parts.
It is obvious that the amount of thread required to sew a loop-stitch seam in a
shoe-sole is equal to three times the length of the line of stitching and twice the
thickness of the leather through which the thread is passed, for the reason that in
the completed seam there is a doublo line of thread upon one side and a single line
upon the other side, and a double line of thread through the stock.
My improved mechanism is so perfectly arranged that I am enabled to conform
to the above rule. This is owing to the needle-feed, and to the fact that the
stitch is drawn on the spool side while the presser-foot rests upon the sole of the
shoe and clamps it down upon the horn with a pressure that varies slightly with the
thickness of the stock, and after the feed has taken place the thread upon the
pool side therefore is clamped between the stock and the horn, and consequently
receives a variable tension as well as the thread on the stitch side; consequently
the difficulty arising when there is a practically constant tension on one side and a
practically variable tension on the other side is overcome.
The advantage of this whirl operating mechanism over that heretofore ordinarily
used consists in the arrangement whereby as little weight of the moving parts, as
little disadvantage with regard to leverage, and as great smoothness of action, are
obtained as possible.
Having thus fully described the said Invention as communicated to me by my
foreign correspondent, and the manner of performing the same, I wish it understood
that I claim,
First. In a wax-thread-sewing-machine the combination of a revolving horn
and its thread-laying dovice or whirl with the stitch-forming mechanism, the
presser-foot and the needle-feed, all substantially as above set forth and for the
purposes specified.
Second. The combination of the revolving horn, the presser-foot having vertical
movements in relation to the said horn, and the cast-off and needle having hori-
zontal movements from the said presser-foot and horn as well as vertical
movements, all substantially as above set forth and for the purposes specified.
Third. The combination of the revolving horn carrying the whirl or other
thread-laying device, the presser-foot having vertical movements only in relation
to the said horn, and the cast-off and needle having a horizontal movement from
the presser-foot, and also having a variable stroke governed by the vertical move-
ment of the latter in relation to the said horn, all substantially as above set forth
and for the purposes specified.
Fourth. In a wax-thread-sewing machine the combination of the presser-foot-
bar and its stop e's with the sliding sleevo on which the needle-lover e is
fulcrumed, and the stop or arm e all arranged in relation to each other,
substantially as specified.
Fifth. The combination in a wax-thread-sewing-machine of the stop E attached
to the rod es, the sliding sleeve e to which the needle-lever e' is fulcrumed,
and the stop E³, all substantially as above set forth and for the purposes
specified.
Sixth. The combination of the sliding sleeve e, the needle-lever e¹ and con-
necting devices, whereby the lever is pivoted to the said sliding sleeve and
friction exerted upon the lever, substantially as above set forth and for the purposes
specified.
Seventh. In a wax-thread sewing-machine the combination of the presser-bar E
the stop e, the rod e³, and its stop E, the sliding sleeve and its end or stop clo
and stop E³, the needle-lever e' pivoted to the said sliding sleeve, the cam-groove E¹
and the needle-bar, all arranged and operating substantially as above set forth.
Eighth. In a wax-thread sewing-machine the combination of the rod e³, the
sliding sleeve e³, the presser-foot-bar E, and the guide or stay-arm e¹³ arranged to

page_text: slide on the same, all substantially as above set forth and for the purposes
specified.
Ninth. In a wax-thread sewing-machine the combination of the block d, the
presser-foot-bar and connecting mechanism, whereby the ratio of the movement
of the said block is greater than that of the presser-foot, all substantially as above
set forth and for the purposes specified.
Tenth. In a wax-thread sewing-machine the combination of the needle-lever e¹·
and its moveable fulcrum e with the incline e and roller et attached to the fulcrum
support of the said lever, whereby a rapid vertical movement of the lever fulcrum
is prevented, substantially as above set forth and for the purposes specified.
Eleventh. The combination of the presser-bar E', the shaft g, the connecting
device and the cam at 9 on the main shaft, and the intermediate mechanism con-
necting the said shaft g therewith, all substantially as above set forth and for tho
purposes specified.
Twelfth. The combination of the block d, the presser-bar E, the shaft g³, the
device connecting the said shaft with the said presser-bar and with the block, and
mechanism for operating the shaft g whereby the presser-bar is lifted a uniform
distance from the stock and the block & reciprocated, all substantially as above set
forth and for the purposes specified.
Thirteenth. The combination of the cam at go, the bent lever 98, the segment
connected with the presser-bar-shaft g³, and the connecting and disconnecting
mechanism consisting of one or more pawls g", the lever m², the guide m, the
roller m' attached to the said lever m³ and the pin or arm m', all substantially as
above described.
Fourteenth. The combination of the plate M provided with the guide m, and the
means for adjusting the same horizontally with the segment 13 attached to the
presser-bar-shaft, the pawl or pawls secured to the bent lever gs and the connecting
mechanism, whereby the pawl or pawls are allowed to engage with notches on the
segment, and are disengaged therefrom upon the movement of the bent lever, all
substantially as above set forth and for the purposes specified.
FU
Fifteenth. The combination of the head F pivoted to the bracket as, the cam
at f upon the main shaft, and the intermediate connecting mechanism consisting
of the crank f³, the shaft f, and the lever fƒ pivoted at f°, and the lever ƒ³
attached to the said lever f³, all substantially as above set forth and for tho
purposes specified.
Sixteenth. The combination of the fast clutch or clutch-pulley b¹, the loose
clutch-pulley b, the sliding rod 6, the connecting yoke 63, the spring 68, the bent
lever b, the rod 65, and the treadle 66, all substantially as above described.
Seventeenth. The combination of the whirl-operating mechanism in the horn,
and its gear-wheel at or below the base of the said horn with the reciprocating
segmental rack, all substantially as above set forth and for the purposes specified.
Eighteenth. The combination of the bevel gear-wheel C on the main shaft, the
segment at the base of the horn, and the intermediate connecting mechanism for
oscillating the same, with the whirl operating mechanism in the horn and its
gear-wheel adapted to engage with the segment, all substantially as above set forth
and for the purposes specified.
Nineteenth. The combination of the whirl operating mechanism in the horn, the
gear-wheel at its base, the segmental rack, and the constantly revolving cam for
oscillating the segment, all substantially as above set forth and for the purposes
specified.
Twentieth. The combination of the main shaft B extending lengthwise of the
machine, and having bearings in the brackets a, a, and supporting the needle-
cam-disc es at its front end, the presser-bar and cam-disc g7, the feed-cain at f', and
the driving mechanism between the supports and the bevel gear-wheel C at its
rear end, all substantially as above described.
Twenty-first. The combination of the frame of the machine provided with one
or more brackets upon its front face for supporting a portion of the whirl-operating

page_text: mechanism, and the horn having a curved upwardly projecting neck a¹ and a
table a' for supporting the auxiliary frame carrying the main shaft, all substantially
as.above described.
Twenty second. In a wax-thread sewing-machine the combination of the
revolving horn, the presser-foot having a vertical movement in relation to the
said horn, and feeding mechanism adapted to eperato while the needle is in
the stock, all substantially as above described.
Twenty third. The combination in a wax-thread sewing-machine of the needle-
bar, the cast-off-bar, and friction mechanism attached to the said needle-bar, and
controlled as to position thereon by the presser-foot adapted to automatically
regulate the downward movement of the said cast-off-bar, all substantially as
above set forth and for the purposes specified.
Twenty fourth. The block frictionally attached to the needle-bar, and adapted to
be adjusted thereon according to the thickness of the work on the presser-foot, all
substantially as above set forth and for the purposes specified.
Twenty fifth. In a wax-thread sowing-machine the cast-off reciprocated by the
needle-bar having the length of its thread regulated by the presser-foot, and
compensating mechanism connecting the said needle-bar, and cast-off-bar, and the
presser-foot-bar, all substantially as above set forth and for the purposes specified.
Twenty sixth. The block attached to the needle-bar or other reciprocating part
of the machine, the block fastener to the cast-off-bar, the block positively actuated
by the presser-foot operating mechanism, the friction-block, and the block attached
to the cast-off-bar, and friction mechanism for holding the needle-bar, all adapted to
operate to automatically follow the throw of the said needle-bar, substantially as
above described.
Twenty seventh. In a wax-thread sewing-machine the combination of the
needle-bar, the presser-foot-bar, and the presser-foot operating devices with con-
necting mechanism, whereby the stroke of the needle-bar is varied by the thickness
of the work, all substantially as above set forth and for the purposes specified.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Robert Lake, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Twentieth day of December, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and eighty one.