IMPROVEMENTS IN KNITTING HATS, CAPS, AND OTHER ARTICLES, AND IN MACHINERY FOR THE SAME
Year: 1875

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Alexander Melville Clark, of 53, Chancery Lane,
in the County of Middlesex, Patent Agent, for the Invention of
"IMPROVEMENTS IN KNITTING HATS, CAPS, AND OTHER ARTICLES, AND IN
MACHINERY FOR THE SAME." -A communication from abroad by Almet
Reed and Bartley Thomas Mulligan, both of the City, County, and
State of New York, United States of America.
Sealed the 5th March 1875, and dated the 12th January 1875.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Alexander Melville
Clark at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his
Petition, on the 12th January 1875.
I, ALEXANDER MELVILLE CLARK, of 53, Chancery Lane, in the
County of Middlesex, Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature of
the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN KNITTING HATS, CAPS, AND OTHER
ARTICLES, AND IN MACHINERY FOR THE SAME," to be as follows:-
This Invention relates to the knitting of hats and caps, hat bodies,
and other articles, and to machinery for producing the same.
A

page_text: The knitting is accomplished by means of knitting machinery having
a circular needle ring, each needle employed being supplied with its own
thread, and the course of the knitting proceeding through successive
oscillations through parts of a circle under the control of adjustable
patterns arranged upon a-revolving drum in such a manner as to govern
the extent of the successive oscillatory motions of the needle ring.
The improvements in the machinery consist among other things in
causing the needle ring in knitting machinery to oscillate to and fro as
the knitting proceeds. This is accomplished in the machinery repre-
sented in the first three Figures of the accompanying Drawings by
means of a double-threaded screw wheel with spiral grooves, in which
are arranged segmental bars, which can be set at different places in the
grooves, as required for the work to be made. The screw wheel has
combined with it a pair of nuts or levers, which are carried along by its
threads, the nuts or levers being mounted on rock shafts respectively
with feather keys, so that the shafts are rocked whenever the-nuts or
levers are lifted above the surface of the wheel, which is done whenever
one of the segmental bars is found in their paths. The rocking of the
shafts causes oscillations or changes in the direction of motion of the
needle ring automatically, so that the work produced by the changes is
made up of a series of gores or pockets combined together so as to
produce a cap or hat body, which is afterwards finished on a block or
otherwise. The needles are provided with a separate thread for cach, and
the needle ring is moved with an intermittent motion a distance of onc
needle at each movement, a series of needles being engaged simul-
taneously, the leading needle of those engaged in each operation being
dropped and a fresh one taken up behind at each step of the rotation so
as to bring the work to an angle with the yarns.
66
This Invention consists further in an eccentric on the driving or cam
shaft, combined with a jointed lever of the first order for imparting
motion to the shaft or gear which drives the pattern cylinder, the end of
the lever being made to work on the principle of an escapement,"
whereby the gear or shaft, and consequently the pattern cylinder, has
imparted to it a regulated step-by-step motion, and its momentum is
always controlled.
t
It also consists of a peculiar device for communicating motion to the

page_text: bevel gear and double sliding clutch, whereby the pattern cylinder is
rotated in one direction, or in the opposite direction, according to the
connections that are made by the clutch. The clutch is actuated from
the pattern cylinder itself by means of bevel_faced shifting pins arranged
at suitable points on its periphery, according to the work to be knitted,
the said pins acting against a rack rod, which is raised by the pins, and
which engages by its teeth a spur gear sliding on a feather on a rock
shaft provided with a cam, which lifts a spring latch, whose office it is
to lock the double sliding clutch whenever either of its ends is engaged
with the clutch gear. The double sliding clutch has an arm which extends
from it to a rod, to which it is attached. Around this rod are placed
two independent spiral springs, which are separated by an arm extending
from a travelling nut berein-after mentioned. The oufer end of one of
the springs abuts against the clutch arm, and the inner end against the
arm of the nut, which arm is arranged to slide on the rod between the
springs, and extends from a travelling nut that runs upon a screw that
is turned, either towards the right or the left, according to which end
of the clutch is engaged. The other spring is arranged on the rod on
the other side of the arm, and abuts by its outer end against an adjustable
collar on the rod. The said rod is arranged in its bearings in such a
manner that it can be moved endwise the same distance as the double
clutch, to which it is rigidly secured by the clutch arm before mentioned.
When the spring latch is raised the clutch arm and the rod to which
said arm is connected is pushed one way or the other by the springs,
according as one or the other has been compressed by the nut arm, and
the clutch is moved from one clutch gear to the other clutch gear.
The clutch gears revolve continuously in opposite directions, one of them
being formed on a hollow shaft, which turns loosely on an inner shaft,
to which the other is secured. When the clutch is shifted the direction
of the rotation of the pattern cylinder is reversed, and since the screw is
rotated directly from the same gear teeth on the pattern cylinder, with
which the pinion on the sliding clutch is engaged, it follows that the
direction of rotation of the screw is also reversed at the same time. The
nut on the screw carries the rack arm, which is actuated by the shifting
pins, and also another rack arm which is actuated by those patterns on
the cylinder which reverse the needle cylinder. The last-mentioned rack
arm engages a sliding spur gear on a rock shaft, which is also, like the
rock shaft heretofore referred to, provided with a cam that lifts a lever
connected with the yarn guide; and the yarn guide bas lateral extensions
0

page_text: at each end, which carry pins that work in inclined slots in sliding
aprons, whose office it is to intervene between the geared ring on the
needle cylinder and the driving pawls that engage said geared ring on
either side, and rotate the needle cylinder; or the inclined slots can be
made in the extensions and the pins placed on the aprons. The said
driving pawls are moved by cams or eccentrics on the cam shaft, as will
be described and shown in the first part of this Specification, the secend
part of this Invention consisting chiefly in modifications in the Inven-
tion described in the first part hereof, and is intended among other
things to accomplish automatically the reversal of the rotation of the
pattern cylinder.
The Invention also consists in an improved method of operating the
wiper which wipes or pushes the work down to the bases of the needle
as the goods are knitted, and in the use of rigid instead of yielding
material for the wiper.
The first part of the Invention is illustrated in the accompanying
Drawings, from Figures 1 to 6 inclusive.
Figure 1 is a plan view of a knitting machine; Figure 2 is a vertical
section thereof taken on the plane of the line a, a, of Figure 1; Figure 3
is a side clevation of Figure 1, a portion of the frame being broken away
to show the needle ring, part of the machine being shown in section.
Figure 4 is a side elevation of a cap produced by the knitting process.
Figure 5 is a side elevation of a knitted cap of a different form.
Figure 6 represents the cap, Figure 4, extended in a plane before it is
blocked and fulled, and before its edges are trimmed and bound.
Similar letters indicate corresponding parts.
In Figures 1 to 3, inclusive, the letter A designates the frame of a
machine by which I can produce caps and hats of this construction, the
frame containing a needle ring B provided on its exterior with vertical
grooves C, in which the needles a, a, &c., play longitudinally up and
down as they are brought into action. The needles are provided with
the usual flexible beards. The needle ring is enclosed within a stationary
guiding flame D in such a manner that it can be moved or oscillated
therein back and forth, as herein-after explained, for the purpose of
changing the direction of the knitting and bringing successively the
different needles as required into action on either side.

page_text: 66
The up and down movement of the needles takes place between the
step-by-step .movements of the needle ring, and is accomplished by a
horizontal grooved bar or grate" E, Figure 2, secured to a vertical
slide F, Figures 3 and 2, working in guides b, b, Figure 2, which slide F
is operated from the driving shaft G by means of an eccentric & and
connecting rod e, and the arms f, f, Figures 2 and 3, mounted on a
rocking shaft g, Figures 2 and 3, the grooved bar E receiving in its
groove the projections 7, Figure 2, of these needles which are presented
to it by the needle ring as it revolves in one direction or the other.
The needle ring is driven from an indicator screw wheel H, whose axis
is supported horizontally in the lower part of the frame A, as shown in
Figures 2 and 3. One end of this wheel is provided with ratchet teeth i
Figure 1, which are engaged by a pawl j operated by the eccentric I on
the main shaft G, Figure 1, the arrangement being such that the wheel
is fed or turned only one tooth at a time. The wheel H is grooved out
with a double right-hand screw thread k, k¹, Figure 1, with a dovetail
groove, which grooves receive segmental pattern bars J of different
lengths, their lengths and positions varying according to the work to be
produced. The bars J must be arranged and timed so as to prevent any
intermission in the work, and to allow only one nut or lever L at a time
to throw its rock shaft, as if both rock shafts were rocked at once the
stitch would miss and the work drop. These bars J are secured in the
grooves at any desired position by set screws, and they project above the
periphery of the wheel high enough to act upon the under sides of
rollers 1, 1, secured at the ends of nuts or levers L, L, which are
mounted with feather keys upon rock shafts M, M', respectively, so that
the levers can travel longitudinally but cannot turn on their shafts.
From the under side of each lever L, L, there projects a swinging blade
m, Figures 2 and 3, which enters a narrow spiral groove n formed in the
periphery of wheel H parallel to and between the deeper grooves that
receive the segmental bars J. The blades m serve to connect the nuts
or levers L, L, to the screw wheel H, and cause them to move along on
their rock shafts M, M', from one end of the wheel to the other, their
blades being, wider than the. height of the pattern bars J above the
screw wheel, so that notwithstanding the lifting of the nuts or levers L
by the said bars the blades will continue in the grooves n and the nuts
or levers continue their traverse along the wheel H. The nuts or levers
L, L, are keyed to their respective rock shafts M, M', by means of keys o,

page_text: which are hinged to the sides of the levers L, L, opposite horizontal
slots p, Figure 2, into which they enter, their ends passing into
longitudinal grooves o* in the rock shafts, which are exposed whenever
the blades are shoved down in the grooves n to cause the slots p and
grooves o* to coincide. When either of the levers has traversed the
length of the wheel its key o is swung out of the groove o*; its blade is
then raised out of its groove n and the lever is then slid along its rock
shaft to the starting end of the wheel. The nuts or levers L, L, are thus
connected to the screw wheel and compelled to move on their rock shafts
according to the pitch of the grooves n, n, the rollers on the said levers
rolling over the periphery of the wheel, but whenever one of the
segmental pattern bars J is found in the path of either of the levers
such lever is raised and its shaft rocked, and thereby one or the other of
the driving pawls q, q', Figure 3, which give rotary motion to the needle
ring is rendered inoperative, as herein-after explained.
Around the needle ring B is secured a toothed ring N having V shaped
teeth, as shewn in Figure 1, dotted outline, equal in number to the
number of needle grooves in the needle ring. The needle ring is driven
one way or the other by means of the spring pawls q, q', shown best in
Figure 1 attached at the ends of levers P, P¹, which are actuated
respectively by eccentrics Q, Q', on the main shaft G. The mechanism
is so arranged that only one of the spring pawls, viz., q or q¹, is allowed
to act upon the needle ring at the same time. This is accomplished by
aprons,, arranged to slide vertically in the frame in such positions
that when they are raised they interpose themselves between the
V shaped teeth on the needle ring and the driving pawls, the springs
allowing the pawls to yield outwardly far enough to cause the pawl to
move outside of the V shaped teeth. The aprons 7, 7, are raised by.
levers R, R', through the action of the rocking arms S, S¹, Figures 1
and 3, which latter are rigidly secured upon the rock shafts M, M. The
mechanism is so arranged and operated by means of the segmental
pattern bars that only one of the pawls q or q¹, is allowed to act at the
same time upon the needle ring, the other pawl being kept meanwhile
out of action by means of its apron so long as its appropriate lever Lis
kept raised by the interposition of a segmental pattern bar on the screw
wheel.

page_text: to prevent the ring from being thrown more than the distance of one
tooth when the machine is running at a high speed, I employ a
detent T, Figure 1, which is formed so as to enter between adjacent
teeth on the exterior of the needle ring, so as to hold the ring firmly,
said detent being formed at one end of a bar whose other end is actuated
by an eccentric U, Figure 1, on the main shaft G, the motion of said
eccentric being just enough to pass by the point of a tooth to the bottom
of the next space.
Each needle of the series actually engaged is supplied with its own
thread, which is conducted through its appropriate hole in a yarn"
guide U (Figure 1 and Figure 2) arranged in front of the needles
engaged. The yarn guide has as many holes through it as there are
threads used, and each hole stands half way between two adjacent
needles at the proper height and distance for the threads to pass through
to the work.
I make the yarn guide either stationary or movable. In the example:
shown in Figure 1 it is stationary, and is fastened to the frame by a set
screw ; it covers the pressers Y, Y¹, Figure 1 and Figure 2, and its
front edge stands as far forward towards the needle ring as the needles:
will allow without interfering with them. In order to make it equivalent
to a yarn guide having lateral motion I place at the outer ends of the
yarn guide a vibrating plate u, Figure 1, attached by hinge joints to the
pressers, as indicated by the numeral 5. These plates u, u, can be'
swung round, so that their front ends come flush with the front edge of
the pressers, having a like curvature. They are swung around to that
position, the one or the other of them by means of flat slides w, w, that
are pivoted to the plates ", and are connected to the aprons ?,,,
respectively by pins t, Figure 3, which work in diagonal slots s, Figure 3,;
made in the aprons, so that when the aprons rise or fall the slides are
moved in or out, thereby causing the plates u to close on the ends of the
pressers or to open. By this construction of the pressers I am able to
compensate for making the yarn guide stationary. This extension is
given to the presser on the side of the direction of motion of the needle
ring, and I am enabled thereby to extend the presser for the time being
on the leading side of the needle ring, so as to bring its outer edge in
that direction, past the place of the leading needle, and thereby enable
it to make its stitch and to ensure its proper action before it casts its
stitch.
.
.

page_text: It will be observed that the closing of the vibrating plate a on either
side is effected by the descent of the apron or, which descent allows
the engagement of one or the other of the pawls q or q¹ with the needle
ring for the purpose of rotating it, the arrangement being such, for
example, that when the apron is down and the pawl q in action the
vibrating plate u, which is towards the right in Figure 1, and which also
appears in Figure 3, will be closed, the needle ring being driven then in
that direction.
As before remarked, I also make the yarn guide movable, and in that
case a slot (indicated in dotted outline in Figure 1) is provided in it, of 1
the proper curvature to allow it to be moved to and fro in the set
screw x, and connect it to one or the other of the aprons r, r', by means
of one of the slides w, Figure 1, which are] connected with the yarn
guide, so that the latter will move with the slide.
It is evident that the yarn guide need be connected only to one of the 1
aprons, in order to receive motion in either direction, since when one
apron, for instance, is moved down the other is simultaneously moyed
up, and therefore both motions of the yarn guide can be got from one
apron.
When I make the yarn guide movable the pressers Y, Y¹, are made 2
wide enough to act on the desired extent of needles engaged, the yarn
guide being moved in the direction opposite to that in which the needles
are moving, so that it extends its yarns diagonally across the needles in
a good position to enable their beards to seize the yarns.
The flexible beards of the needles are closed as soon as the needles 2
have seized the yarn by means of the spring pressers Y, Y', which are
arranged to slide in grooves in the frame A, and are operated by means
of the cams Z, Z, (Figure 1), on the shaft G, which are so timed as to
close the needles at the proper time, and hold them close during a
period of time long enough to allow the old stitches to pass over the
ends of the needles when the pressers are withdrawn by their springs.
The work is gently stroked downwards by an eccentric motion from the
segmental spring wiper 1 (Figures 1 and 2) working inside the needle
ring. The said segment 1 is faced with rubber, and is operated by
means of the cam 2 (Figures 1 and 2) on the main shaft. So soon as
the wiper 1 pulls a little on the cloth a spring holder 3, which is operated
by means of cam 6 on the main shaft, comes down on the newly

page_text: formed stitches, and remains there until the grooved bar E (Figure 2)
rises, when it is raised also out of the way, and gives the needle ring a
chance to shift. Each needle in the series engaged makes a stitch of its
own with a separate thread, and in making caps of ordinary size I
employ from 25 to 40 needles, but I do not restrict myself to any
number of needles. The needle ring is caused to move or feed, first in
one direction, presenting a sufficient number of the needles to be
simultaneously raised and lowered by the bar E, according to the width
of the work to be done, one needle being dropped on the leading side at
each feed or movement, and a fresh needle taken up at the other side,
and when the proper length of work has been knitted in that direction
the movement or feed of the needle ring is automatically changed by
means of the screw wheel H and its segmental pattern bars, as before
explained. In this manner the needle ring is made to operate con-
tinuously from left to right, and from right to left, for periods which are
determined by the relative lengths and arrangements of the said bars,
the result being that the work is composed of a series of connected gores
arranged in zig-zag order with respect to cach other, but so as to com-
plete the cap or hat except on the short terminal lines where the work
began, and where a small gap is sometimes left opening on the edge of
the cap or hat, which is afterwards closed up by connecting the stitchics
or in any convenient manner, but the pattern bars may be arranged
as to leave no gap in the work.
The succession of gores enables me to produce cap or hat bodies of
various styles (including "Scotch caps," so called, with the part known
as the "bell" more or less protruding, as required by the manufacturer,
the band being widened by knitting at one side to form a front" if
desired), and also muffs.
Before the machine is put in operation the segmental pattern bars are
arranged in proper order upon the screw wheel, and the needle ring is.
provided with as many needles set adjacent to each other as may be
required. The needles are raised by the grooved bar E, Figure 2, thus
enabling them to seize the yarns, and the descent of the bar E is just
sufficient to cause each needle engaged to draw out as much yarn as is
required to make the stitch. The bar then rises and is allowed to rest
a-moment while the needle ring advances (to the right or left), and causes
the leading needle or needles in the series to drop out of the groove in the
bar, and a fresh needle or needles at the rear end to enter the groove of

page_text: the bar, the yarns being brought sideways to the series of needles which
are engaged, as above explained.
Instead of the driving pawl j, Figures 1 and 2, and the ratchet
teeth i for driving the screw wheel I can employ a toothed segment
measuring about one-fifth of a circle fixed on the end of a main shaft G,
and arranged so that it shall, as it revolves, engage a pinion on a shaft
provided with a worm wheel which meshes with the teeth i on the screw
wheel in such a manner that the segment will cause the said shaft to
make one entire revolution during each engagement of the segment with
the pinion, and the screw wheel be moved one tooth. By means of this
mechanism I am enabled to produce by knitting a Scotch cap, so called,
having a "bell" or enlargement all around or partly around its edge
and a vertical band with or without a peak, and can also produce caps
and hats of various shapes. After the cap or hat has been knitted it is
if necessary "fulled," and then blocked upon a "block" or form similar
to such as are commonly used by hatters.
Figure 4 is a representation of one of the caps after it is blocked.
The cap or hat is completed for wear by lining it, and trimming and
binding its edges.
I can arrange the pattern bars J so that the knitting shall proceed
straight across in parallel rows from edge to edge of the work, using
whatever needles are required, thereby producing a semi-spherical cap
or hat body which is blocked and finished to bring it to the shape
required. By this mode of arranging the pattern bars as well as in the
manner previously described with reference to making Scotch caps, I s
can produce muffs by making the pattern bars longer, and thereby
producing an almost entirely spherical fabric and sewing up the edge
left open, the fabric is then fulled by which the seam is rendered
scarcely observable. It is then drawn over a block of the proper shape
and finished.
In Figure 5 I have shown a cap made in this manner, that is to say,
by knitting in lines that extend from side to side of the cap.
Figure 6 shows the course of the knitting in producing a cap of such
a form as that shown in Figure 4. The part Figure 6 marked a is the
base which forms part of the band of the cap from which the knitting
proceeds in zig-zag lines b, along the marginal line c to the end of that
line, and then upon the other side of that line in zig-zag lines d opposite

page_text: "
the place of beginning, when in order to complete the "bell
" of the cap
at that part the margin of the cloth at e for about the distance of
twenty loops, varying according to the size of the cap, is "picked up
and placed on the needles, and the knitting then proceeds back and
forth in order to produce the part e so as to form by means of the part e
and the base a a continuous band around the cap; after completing this I
knit the front or peak f, continuing the knitting until cloth enough is
produced to leave a base for the beginning of the next cap after the front
or peak fis cut out and separated therefrom.
The second part of this Invention is illustrated in the accompanying
Drawing, in Figures 7 to 15 inclusive, in which Figure 7 is a plan view
of a knitting machine containing modifications of some of the parts shown
in the preceding Figures; and Figure 8 is a side elevation thereof, partly
in section.
Figure 9 is a central vertical section taken in the line x, x, of
Figure 7.
Figure 10 is an end clevation, partly in section, showing more in
detail than in the other Figures the shifting apparatus by which the
direction of motion of the pattern cylinder is governed automatically.
Figure 11 shows a modification of the wiper."
Figure 12 shows a plan view of another modification of the wiper and
connections.
Figure 14 shows a modification for extending the presser so as to act
on a great number of needles.
Figures 13 and 13* show a modification in the "gate" or bar E,
whereby the needles can be changed with facility.
Figure 15 represents a front view of the yarn guide detached.
In these Figures of the Drawing the letter A designates the frame of
the machine, and B a needle cylinder provided with vertical grooves in
which the needles a, Figure 9 and Figure 11, move up and down as they
are successively brought into action. The needle ring is enclosed within a
frame D, in such a manner that it can be oscillated or turned in either
direction as the direction of the knitting is changed. The up-and-down
movements of the needles are effected, as in the machine described in
the first part of this Specification by a bar E, Figures 9 and 11, whose
front face is grooved to receive projections h, Figure 9 and Figure 11, of

page_text: the needles which come opposite to it as the needle ring is turned in one
direction or the other, said bar E, Figure 9 and Figure 11, is moved
up and down by a vertical slide F, Figure 8 and Figure 9, working in
guides b, b, Figure 9, the slide F being operated from the driving shaft G
by means of an eccentric d (Figure 11) and connecting rod e (Figures 8,
9, 11,) and rocking arms f, f¹, (Figure 8, Figure 9,) fixed on a shaft g.
The end of the arm f¹ is connected to the slide F by a connecting rod
made in two parts f³, f², and connected by a nut f³ having a thread on
its exterior and interior (one. right the other left), the inner thread
working on a stem on the end of one part, and the outer thread working
within the other part in such a manner that by the rotation of the nut
the connecting rod is either lengthened or shortened, and thereby the
extent of motion imparted to the needles is controlled and regulated.
The needle presser Y (Figures 7, 9, 11), the detent T for engaging the
toothed ring N (Figures 7, 9, 11,) of the needle cylinder, the spring
pawls q, q', (Figure 7), and their levers P, P¹, for driving the needle
cylinder with their actuating cams or eccentrics on the driving shaft G
remain essentially as described in the first part of this Specification. The
shaft H, shown best in Figures 7, 8, and 9), on which the pattern
cylinder H is supported has on one end a gear wheel i (Figures 7, 8, 10,)
which is driven from an eccentric 2 (Figures 7, 8,) on the shaft G by
means of a jointed lever gl (Figures 7, 8,) of the first order, having its
fulcrum at g (Figure 8). The lever g¹ is constructed and operates on
the principle of an escapement, causing the gear i (Figures 7, 8, 10,) to
move one tooth at a time, and locking it after each movement, so that it
can neither move onward from the effect of momentum nor react from
the effect of resistance. The shorter end of the lever is made with a
spring propelling beveled tooth 93, Figure 8, working in a socket 'in the
said lever, and is provided with a spring detent g³ working through
cars formed on the same part of the frame of the machine, which
supports the fulcrum of said lever. The shorter end of said lever is
provided with an extension g', which extends between the ears 9, and is
slotted to allow the detent to go through it, and between the said
extension g' and the forward car 9º said detent is surrounded by a spiral
spring, one end of which is fastened to the detent, while said detent on
the part between said extension and the back ear gº is provided with a
pings, against which the extension strikes when the lever g' is vibrated
in the direction of the arrow marked thereon, and the detent is thereby

page_text: withdrawn from engagement with the gear, and allows the gear to be
moved by the spring tooth; but the spring tooth and detent are so
arranged that before the detent is withdrawn the bevel of the spring
tooth is carried by the vibration of the lever against and past the
adjacent tooth of the gear wheel, so as to engage that tooth by its
straight edge, the detent meanwhile holding the wheel stationary; and
so soon as the beveled tooth has passed to that position the continued
vibration of the lever operates to withdraw the detent, and allow the
reverse movement of the lever to advance the gear wheel the distance of
› one tooth, when the detent is released and is again pushed by its spring
between adjacent teeth of the gear.
The gear wheel i is supposed in the Drawing to be moving in the
direction of the arrow, Figure 8, and it follows that the pinion j
(Figure 10) engaged by it will be turned in the opposite direction. The
pinion (Figure 10) is fast on the sleeve or hollow shaft j', on whose
inner end is formed the clutch gear j, while its outer end has fixed
thereon the bevel gear j³, which engages the intermediate horizontal bevel
gear j', and through the latter communicates motion by the bevel gear j³
to the shaft jo, which extends through said hollow shaft j' and through
the sliding clutch j', and has fixed on its inner end a clutch gear j³. The
clutch has a wide pinion j formed upon it in such a position that it will
always engage the gear teeth H² placed around the pattern cylinder H³,
Figures 7 and 10. The clutch also carries an arm j¹º (Figures 7, 10),
which extend upwards over the pattern cylinder to the rod or bar s,
to which it is fastened, and the clutch arm and rod are held stationary
after every reversal of the clutch by means of a spring latch 8', which
has at its end a pin that enters holes in the arm, so that the rod s and
the clutch are locked, and prevented from moving endwise. The rod or
bar & is arranged so that it can slide endwise a distance equal to the
motion given to the clutch, and is provided with two independent spiral
springs,, which are separated from each other by an arm u made
with an eye, so as to embrace and slide on the rod. The inner ends of
the spring bear against the sides of the arm u, and the outer end of the
spring bears against the clutch arm 1, while the outer end of the
spring & bears against the adjustable collar on the left-hand end of the
rod in Figure 10. The arm 7 (Figures 7, 9, 10,) extends from a nut u²
of which it is a part that travels on the screw u³, which is revolved from
the gear H² of the pattern cylinder through the pinion * (Figures 7, 8,)
8

page_text: fixed on the screw. The arm u (Figures 7, 9, 10,) that extends from the
nut carries on its side (see Figure 7) a spur gear u³ (Figures 7, 9), which
is connected by a feather to the rock shaft (over which the said arm
extends), so that it can slide thereon, and the body of the spur gear is
made large enough to allow a rack arm 7 (Figures 9, 10,) provided
at its lower end with an antifriction roller to work up and down through
it, the teeth of the rack arm engaging the spur gear, so as to rock the
said shaft u (Figures 7, 9,) whenever the traverse of the nut on its screw
brings the rack arm in contact with one or the other of two shifting
pins ³ (Figure 10) which are set in holes in the periphery of the pattern
cylinder in such positions and in such relation to each other as will
cause the direction of rotation of the pattern cylinder to be changed
automatically at any desired point of the traverse of the nut on the
screw, so that the machine can continue its work automatically without
requiring the attendant to effect such change of direction.
The reversal of the direction of rotation of the screw is effected by
means of the parts already mentioned through a lifter or cam u
(Figures 7 and 9) on the rock shaft u, which lifts the spring latch &'
(Figures 7, 9, 10,) and unlocks the clutch arm j", Figures 7, 9, 10,)
and rod s, which are immediately pushed along by the spring 83
(Figures 7, 10,) towards the right (observing Figure 10) when that
spring is compressed by the arm u (Figures 7, 10), and are moved
towards the left, when the spring is compressed by said arm, the
extent of movement being such as to disengage the clutch at one end,
and engage it at the other.
The pattern cylinder is provided on its periphery with pattern bars H*
(Figures 9, 10,) one or more, arranged spirally with a pitch equal to the
pitch of the thread of the screw, and of whatever length is desired,
according to the variations required in the knitting. The pattern bars
can be changed on the cylinder if desired for changes in the work, or
different cylinders or "skeletons," each having a different length or
different position of pattern bars, can be provided and placed on the
cylinder shaft:
The pattern bars H³ furnish the means for shifting the yarn guide K
(Figures 7, 8, 9), and for oscillating or changing the direction of the
needle cylinder. These actions arc accomplished by a rack arm x
(Figures 7, 9, 10), whose end, provided with an antifriction roller, rests

page_text: on the periphery of the pattern cylinder, and when a pattern bar H³ lies
in its path the rack arm is lifted by it and turns a spur gear ¹, Figure 9,
which is connected by means of a feather with a rock shaft x (Figures
S and 9), on which is a lifting cam x³ (Figures 7 and 8) that operates
the jointed lever 2' (Figures 7, 8), and thereby changes the position of
the yarn guide K. The spur gear ¹ (Figure 9) like the spur gear s
(Figures 7, 9,) is connected to the nut ², and is carried with it to tho
right or left, so as to come in line with and meet the pattern bars.
The yarn guide K (Figures 7, 8, 9,) has on each end extensions K', K¹,
(Figure 7), which are each provided with inclined slots K² (Figure 15)
near their ends that receive studs formed on aprons 1, 2, (Figures 7, 15),
which latter respectively move by the action of the studs in their slots,
so as to intervene between one or the other of the driving pawls q, q',
(Figure 7) and the teeth on the needle ring when one or the other of the
said pawls is to be brought into or out of action. After the pattern bar
that caused this movement has passsed from under the rack arm the
lever is pressed down by a weight or spring as the cam on the rock
shaft x falls, and the driving pawl which was in operation before such
movement is restored to action, and the rotation of the needle cylinder
proceeds in the direction in which it has ben running before the change
occurred.,
The wiper 1 (Figures 7, 9, 11, in these improvements is made of rigid
material, such as metal, wood, or hard rubber, in contradistinction to
yielding material, and it is operated from the cam shaft by means of the
eccentric strap d (Figure 11) of the eccentric d which works the needle
slide F (Figures 8, 9,) and by an independent cam in the following
manner-On the top of the strap d' (Figure 11) a rising army is
arranged which carries an antifriction roller, and said arm y is sur-
mounted by a yoke y¹, within which it oscillates with the movements of
the eccentric. From the yoke y' extends a lever y working on a sliding
fulcrum y, and the other end of the lever is adjustably connected to a
vertical arm y' that extends upwards from the wiper i. The revolution
of the eccentric d causes the yoke y¹ and lever y³, and with them the
wiper i, to be oscillated back and forth; and in addition to this motion
the lever and wiper simultaneously receive a rising and falling motion
by means of a lever y³ whose free end yª comes up against the under side
of the lever y in front of its fulcrum, its other end being in contact with
a cam y formed on the cam shaft G, as shown in Figure 11. The wiper

page_text: is pressed downwards by means of the spring y' which is arranged under
the back end of the lever y², so as to keep the front end constantly
bearing downwards with a gentle pressure. In this manner a compound.
motion is imparted to the wiper, the action of the under lever y upon
the lever y being so timed that the wiper is lifted at the time the wiper &
has reached its lowest position and is being moved away from the
needles.
Figure 12 shows a wiper arrangement to operate on a wider extent of
cloth, the wiper being duplicated as at 1, 1, each division being carried
by its own lever y³, which is operated substantially as shown in 1
Figure 11.
In Figures 13; 13*, are shown a top view and vertical section of the
grooved bar or gate E, by means of whose groove (see Figures 11 and 9)
the needles are raised. It has been necessary when a needle was broken
to remove this bar or gate in order to get the broken needle out of the
gate, but by means of the improvement shown in Figures 13, 13*, this
can be accomplished without removing the gate. Said improvement
consists in making the gate or or bar of two plates, the lower one of which
E is rebated in front at e, and the upper one of which E¹ forms with the
rebate e the groove required to receive the projecting nibs of the 2
needles. This upper plate is secured on the main plate -E by means of
pins P, P¹, protruding from plate E up into elongated slots H, H, in the
upper plate E¹, so that the plate E¹ can be moved backwards or forwards.
It is kept in the forward or advanced position, shown in Figure 13, by
means of springs I, I, arranged in it and in the main part E of the gate, a
and when it is necessary to remove a needle the upper plate E' is pressed
back by pushers against the lug S, so as to allow the lug / of the needle
to be lifted out of the rebate or groove e. A new needle can then be
put in, and on releasing the plate E' its springs I press it forward over
the rebate e, so as to confine the needle.
The object of the modification shown in Figure 14 is to enable one to
employ needles throughout one half, or nearly one half of the needle
ring. To do this it is necessary that the presser be extended so as to
act on the needles to that extent.
The needle pressers Y are six in number in the Drawing, but the In-
vention is not confined to any particular number. They are mounted
in the frame so as to be capable of being moved laterally, each being
provided with a stem Y' having an antifriction roller Y₁ arranged in such

page_text: a position as to be severally in the path of cams Y' which project from
the front of a slide Y*, from which extends a stem that is acted on by
the presser cam Z.
When it is desired to use a large number of needles the needle
pressers Y are contained around the needle ring to the extent or distance
occupied by the number of needles to be used, and the pressers are
severally actuated from the slide Y' by means of its cams Y³, which are
pushed when the slide is moved against the friction rollers Y². When
the range of needles is lessened the supernumerary presser or pressers is
put out of action by removing the proper cam Y³ from the slide Y*, or
by removing the antifriction roller from the supernumerary presser, so
that the slide will not act on it.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Alexander Melville Clark in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 10th July 1875.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, ALEXANDER
MELVILLE CLARK, of 53, Chancery Lane, in the County of Middlesex,
Patent Agent, send grecting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Twelfth day of January, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-five, in the thirty-
eighth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors,
give and grant unto me, the said Alexander Melville Clark, Her special
licence that I, the said- Alexander Melville Clark, my, executors, adminis-
trators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Alexander Melville
Clark, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time
agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter.
during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use,
exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and
Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for “Im-
PROVEMENTS IN KNITTING HATS, CAPS, AND OTHER ARTICLES, AND IN MACHINERY
FOR THE SAME," a communication to me from abroad by Almet Reed
and Bartley Thomas Mulligan, both of the City, County, and State
B

page_text: of New York, United States of America, upon the condition (amongst
.others) that I, the said Alexander Melville Clark, my executors
or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or
one of their hands and scals, should particularly describe and ascertain
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was
to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal
Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately after
the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Alexander Melville Clark, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is
to be performed; to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement, reference being had to the three accompanying
Sheets of Drawings, and to the letters and figures marked thercon (that
is to say) :-
This Invention relates to the knitting of hats and caps, hat bodics,
and other articles, and to machinery for producing the same.
The knitting is accomplished by means of knitting machinery having
a circular needle ring, each needle employed being supplied with its own
thread, and the course of the knitting proceeding through successive
oscillations through parts of a circle under the control of adjustable
patterns arranged upon a revolving drum in such a manner as to govern
the extent of the successive oscillatory motions of the needle ring.
The improvements in the machinery consist among other things in
causing the needle ring in knitting machinery to oscillate to and fro as
the knitting proceeds. This is accomplished in the machinery repre-
sented in the first three Figures of the accompanying Drawings by
means of a double threaded screw wheel with spiral grooves, in which
are arranged segmental bars, which can be set at different places in the
grooves, as required, for the work to be made.
The screw wheel has
combined with it a pair of nuts or levers, which are carried along by its
threads, the nuts or levers being mounted on rock shafts respectively
with feather keys, so that the shafts are rocked whenever the nuts or
levers are lifted above the surface of the wheel, which is done whenever
.one of the segmental bars is found in their paths. The rocking of the
shafts causes oscillations or changes in the direction of motion of the
-needle ring automatically, so that the work produced by the changes is
made up of a series of gores or pockets combined together so as to

page_text: produce a cap or hat body, which is afterwards finished, on a block or
otherwise. The needles are provided with a separate thread for each,
and the needle ring is moved with an intermittent motion a distance of
one needle at each movement, a series of needles being engaged simul-
taneously, the leading needle of those engaged in each operation being
dropped, and a fresh one taken up behind at each step of the rotation, so
as to bring the work to an angle with the yarns.
This Invention consists further in an eccentric on the driving or cam
shaft combined with a jointed lever of the first order for imparting
motion to the shaft or gear which drives the pattern cylinder, the end of
the lever being made to work on the principle of an "escapement,"
whereby the gear or shaft and consequently the pattern cylinder has
imparted to it a regulated step-by-step motion, and its momentum is
always controlled.
It also consists of a peculiar device for communicating motion to the
pattern cylinder from the said gear or shaft by means of a system of
bevel gears and double-sliding clutch, whereby the pattern cylinder is
rotated in one direction or in the opposite direction, according to the
connections that are made by the clutch. The clutch is actuated from
the pattern cylinder itself by means of bevel faced shifting pins arranged
at suitable points on its periphery, according to the work to be knitted,
the said pins acting against a rack rod which is raised by the pins, and
which engages by its teeth a spur gear sliding on a feather on a rock
shaft provided with a cam which lifts a spring latch, whose office it is
to lock the double sliding clutch whenever either of its ends is engaged
with the clutch gear. The double acting clutch has an arm which
extends from it to a rod to which it is attached. Around this rod are
placed two independent spiral springs, which are separated by an arm
extending from a travelling nut herein-after mentioned. The outer end
of one of the springs abuts against the clutch arm, and the inner end
against the arm of the nut, which arm is arranged to slide on the rod
between the springs, and extends from a travelling nut that runs upon a
screw that is turned either towards the right or the left, according to
which end of the clutch is engaged. The outer spring is arranged on
the rod on the other side of the arm, and abuts by its outer end against
an adjustable collar on the rod. The said rod is arranged on its bearings
in such a manner that it can be moved endwise the same distance as the
double clutch, to which it is rigidly secured by the clutch arm before
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page_text: 3
mentioned. When the spring latch is raised the clutch arm and the rod
to which said arm is connected is pushed one way or the other by the
springs, according as one or the other has been compressed by the nut
arm, and the clutch is moved from one clutch gear to the other clutch
gear. The clutch gears revolve continuously in opposite directions, one
of them being formed on a hollow shaft which turns loosely on an inner
shaft to which the other is sccured. When the clutch is shifted,
the direction of the rotation of the pattern cylinder is reversed, and
since the screw is rotated directly from the same gear teeth on the
pattern cylinder with which the pinion on the sliding clutch is engaged,
it follows that the direction of the rotation of the screw is also reversed
at the same time. The nut on the screw carries the rack arm, which is
actuated by the shifting pius, and also another rack arm, which is
actuated by those patterns on the cylinder which reverse the needle
cylinder. The last-mentioned rack arm engages a sliding spur gear
on a rock shaft, which is also (like the rock shaft heretofore referred to)
provided with a cam that lifts a lever connected with the yarn guide, and
the yarn guide has lateral extensions at each end which carry pins that
work in inclined slots in sliding aprons, whose office it is to intervene
between the geared ring in the needle cylinder and the driving pawls
that engage said geared ring on either side, and rotate the needle
cylinder, or the inclined slots can be made in the extensions, and the
pins placed on the aprons. The said driving pawls are moved by cams
or eccentrics on the cam shaft, as will be described and shown in the
first part of this Specification, the second part of this Invention con-
sisting chicfly of modifications in the Invention described in the first
part hercof, and is intended among other things to accomplish automa-
tically the reversal of the rotation of the pattern cylinder.
This Invention also consists in an improved method of operating the
wiper which wipes or pushes the work down to the bases of the needle
as the goods are knitted, and in the use of rigid instead of yielding
material for the wiper.
The first part of this Invention is illustrated in the accompanying
Drawings from Figure 1 to 6 inclusive.
Figure 1. is a plan view of a knitting machine; Figure 2 is a vertical
section thereof taken in the plane of the line a, a, of Figure 1; Figure 3
is a side elevation of Figure 1, a portion of the frame being broken

page_text: "
section.
C
being show
Figure 4 is a side elevation of a cap produced by the knitting
process.
Figure 5 is a side elevation of a knitted cap of a different form.
Figure 6 represents the cap, Figure 4, extended in a plane before it
is blocked and fulled, and before its edges are trimmed and bound.
Similar letters indicate corresponding parts.
In Figures 1 to 3 inclusive the letter A designates the frame of a
machine by which I can produce caps and hats of this con-construction,
the frame containing a needle ring B provided on its exterior with vertical.
grooves C, in which the needles a, a, &c., play longitudinally up and
down as they are brought into action. The needles are provided with
the usual flexible beards. The needle ring is enclosed with a stationary.
guiding frame D in such a manner that it can be moved or oscillated
therein back and forth, as hercin-after explained, for the purpose of
changing the direction of the knitting and bringing successively the
different needles as required into action on either side.
"
The up-and-down movement of the needles takes place between the
step-by-step movements of the needle ring, and is accomplished by a
horizontal grooved bar or gate" E, Figure 2, secured to a vertical
slide F (Figures 3 and 2) working in guides b, b, (Figure 2), which
slide F is operated from the driving shaft G by means of an eccentric d
and connecting rod c, and the arms f,f, (Figures 2 and 3) mounted on
a rocking shaft g, the grooved bar E receiving in its groove the pro-
jections h, Figure 2, of those needles which are presented to it by the
needle ring as it revolves in one direction or the other.
The needle ring is driven from an indicator screw wheel H, whose axis
is supported horizontally in the lower part of the frame A, as shown in
Figures 2 and 3. One end of the wheel is provided with ratchet teeth i,
Figure 1, which are engaged by a pawl j operated by the eccentric I
on the main shaft G, the arrangement being such that the wheel is fed
or turned only one tooth at a time. The wheel H is grooved throughout
with a double right-hand screw thread k, k, Figure 1, with a dovetail
groove, which grooves receive segmental pattern bars J of different
lengths, their lengths and positions varying according to the work to be
produced. The bars J must be arranged and timed so as to prevent any

page_text: intermission in the work, and to allow only one nut or lever L at a time to
throw its rock shaft, as if both rock shafts were rocked at once the stitch
would miss and the work drop. These bars J are secured in the grooves
at any desired positions by set screws, and they project above the
periphery of the wheel high enough to act upon the under sides of the
rollers, 1, secured at the ends of nuts or levers L, L, which are mounted
with feather keys upon rock shafts M, M', respectively, so that the levers
can travel longitudinally, but cannot turn on their shafts. From the
under side of each lever L, L, there projects a swinging blade m
(Figures 2 and 3), which enters a narrow spiral groove n formed in the
periphery of wheel H, parallel to and between the deeper grooves that
receive the segmental bars J. The blades m serve to connect the nuts or
levers L, L, to the screw wheel H, and cause them to move along on
their rock shafts M, M', from one end of the wheel to the other,
their blades being wider than the height of the pattern bars J above the
screw wheel, so that, notwithstanding the lifting of the nuts or levers L
by the said bars the blade will continue in the grooves n and the nuts
or levers continue their traverse along the wheel H. The nuts or
levers L, L, are keyed to their respective rock shafts M, M', by means
of keys o (Figures 2 & 3), which are hinged to the sides of the
levers L, L, opposite horizontal slots P, Figure 2, into which they enter,
their ends passing into longitudinal grooves ox in the rock shafts, which
are exposed whenever the blades are shoved down in the grooves n to
cause the slots P and grooves o* to coincide. When either of the levers
has traversed the length of the wheel its key o is swung out of the
groove o*, its blade is then raised out of its groove n, and the lever is
then' slid along its rock shaft to the starting end of the wheel. The nuts
or levers L, L, are thus connected to the screw wheel and compelled to
move on their rock shafts according to the pitch of the grooves n, n,
(Figures 1 and 2), the rollers on the said levers rolling over the periphery
of the wheel; but whenever one of the segmental pattern bars J is
found in the path of either of the levers, such lever is raised and its shaft
rocked, and thereby one or the other of the driving pawls q, q', (Figure 1
and Figure 3), which give rotary motion to the needle ring, is rendered
inoperative, as herein-after explained.
Around the needle ring B is secured a toothed ring N having V shaped
teeth, as shown in Figure 1, (dotted outlines), equal in number to the
number of needle grooves in the needle ring.. The needle ring is driven

page_text: one way or the other by means of the spring pawls q, q', shown best in
Figure 1, attached at the ends of levers P, P¹, which are actuated
respectively by eccentrics Q, Q', on the main shaft G. The mechanism
is so arranged that only one of the spring pawls, viz., q or q', is allowed
to act upon the needle ring at the same time. This is accomplished by
aprons 1, ³, arranged to slide vertically in the frame in such positions
that when they are raised they interpose themselves between the
V shaped teeth on the needle ring and the driving pawls, the springs
allowing the pawls to yield outwardly far enough to cause the pawl to
move outside of the V shaped teeth. The aprons r; r³, are raised by.
levers R, R¹, best.shown in Figure 3, through the action of the rocking.
arms s, s¹, Figures 1 and 3, which latter are rigidly secured upon the
rock shafts M, M. The mechanism is so arranged and operated by.
means of the segmental pattern bars that only one of the pawls q or q¹
is allowed to act at the same time upon the needle ring, the other pawl
being kept meanwhile out of action by means of its apron, so long as its
appropriate lever L is kept raised by the interposition of a segmental
pattern bar on the screw wheel.
In order to hold the needle ring stationary while the needles are being
raised and lowered, and the stitches are in the process of formation, and
to prevent the ring from being thrown more than the distance of one
tooth when the machine is running at a high speed, I employ a detent T
(Figure 1), which is formed so as to enter between adjacent teeth on the
exterior of the needle ring, so as to hold the ring firmly, said detent
being formed at one end of a bar, whose other end is actuated by an
eccentric U on the main shaft G, the motion of said eccentric being just
enough to pass by the point of a tooth to the bottom of the next
space.
Each needle of the series actually engaged is supplied with its own
thread, which is conducted through its appropriate hole in a yarn
guide U¹ (Figure 1 and Figure 2) arranged in front of the needles
engaged. The yarn guide has as many holes through it as there are
threads used, and each hole stands halfway between two adjacent
needles at the proper height and distance for the threads to pass through
to the work.
I make the yarn guide either stationary or movable. In the example
shown in Figure 1 it is stationary, and is fastened to the frame by a set

page_text: screw x. It covers the pressers y, y', (Figure 1 and Figure 2), and its
front edge stands as far forward towards the needle ring as the needles
will allow without interfering with them. In order to make it equivalent
to a yarn guide having lateral motion I place at the outer ends of the
yarn guide a vibrating plate u (Figure 1), attached by hinge joints to
the pressers, as indicated by the numeral 5. These plates u, u, can be
swung round, so that their front ends come flush with the front edge of
the pressers, having a like curvature. They are swung around to that
position, the one or the other of them, by means of flat slides w, w, that
are pivoted to the plates u, and are connected to the aprons 7, 1,
respectively by pins t (Figure 3), which work in diagonal slots 8 made
in the aprons, so that when the aprons rise or fall the slides are moved
in or out, thereby causing the plates u to close on the ends of the
presser, or to open. By this construction of the pressers I am enabled
to compensate for making the yarn guide stationary. This extension is
given to the presser on the side of the direction of motion of the needle
ring, and I am enabled thereby to extend the presser for the time being
on the leading side of the needle ring, so as to bring its outer edge in
that direction past the place of the leading needle, and thereby enable
it to make its stitch and to ensure its proper action before it casts its
stitch.
It will be observed that the closing of the vibrating plate u on either
side is effected by the descent of the apron r or 7, which descent allows
the engagement of one or the other of the pawls q or q', with the needle
ring for the purpose of rotating it, the arrangement being such for
example, that when the apron r is drawn and the pawl q in action, the
vibrating plate u which is towards the right in Figure 1, and which also
appears in Figure 3, will be closed, the needle ring being driven then in
that direction.
As before remarked I also make the yarn guide movable, and in that
case a slot (indicated in dotted outlines in Figure 1) is provided in it of
the proper curvature to allow it to be moved to and fro in the set screw
x, and connect it to one or the other of the aprons 7º, 2º¹³, by means of one
of the slides w (Figure 1), which are connected with the yarn guide so
that the latter will move with the slide.
It is evident that the yarn guide need be connected only to one of the
aprons in order to receive motion in either direction, since when one

page_text: apron for instance is moved down the other is simultaneously moved
up, and therefore both motions of the yarn guide can be got from one
apron.
When I make the yarn guide movable the pressers y, y¹, are made
wide enough to act on the desired extent of needles engaged, the yarn
guide being moved in the direction opposite to that in which the needles
are moving, so that it extends its yarns diagonally across the needles in a
good position to enable their beards to seize the yarns.
The flexible beards of the needles are closed as soon as the needles
have seized the yarn by means of the spring pressers y, y', which are
arranged to slide in grooves in the frame A, and are operated by means¨
of the cams Z, Z, Figure 1, on the shaft G which are so timed as to close
the needles at the proper time, and hold them closed during a period of
time long enough to allow the old stitches to pass over the ends of the
needles when the pressers are withdrawn by their springs. The work is
gently stroked downwards by an eccentric motion from the segmental
spring wiper 1 (Figures 1 and 2), working inside the needle ring. The
said segment 1 is faced with rubber and is operated by means of the
cam 2 (Figure 1 and Figure 2), on the main shaft. So soon as the
wiper 1 pulls a little on the cloth a spring holder 3 which is operated by
means of a cam 6 on the main shaft, comes down on the newly formed
stitches and remains there until the grooved bar E, Figure 2, rises, when
it is raised also out of the way and gives the needle ring a chance to
shift. Each needle in the series engaged makes a stitch of its own with
a separate thread, and in making caps of ordinary size I employ from 25
to 40 needles, but I do not restrict myself to any number of needles.
The needle ring is caused to move or feed first in one direction,
presenting a sufficient number of the needles to be simultaneously raised
and lowered by the bar E, according to the width of the work to be done,
one needle being dropped on the leading side at each feed or movement,
and a fresh needle taken up at the other side, and when the proper
length of work has been knitted in that direction, the movement or feed
of the needle ring is automatically changed by means of the screw wheel
H, and its segmental pattern bars as before explained. In this manner
the needle ring is made to operate continuously from left to right and
from right to left for periods which are determined by the relative
lengths and arrangements of the said bars, the result being that the
work is composed of a series of connected gores arranged in zig-zag order

page_text: with respect to each other, but so as to complete the cap or hat except
on the short terminal lines where the work began, and where a small
gap is sometimes left opening on the edge of the cap or hat, which is
afterwards closed up by connecting the stitches, or in any convenient
manner, but the pattern bars may be so arranged as to leave no gap in
the work.
The succession of gorcs enables me to produce cap or hat bodies of
various styles (including "Scotch caps," so called, with the part known
as the "bell," more or less protruding as required by the manufacture,
the band being widened by knitting at one side to form a "front" if
desired), and also muffs.
Before the machine is put in operation the segmental pattern bars are
arranged in proper order upon the screw wheel, and the needle ring is
provided with as many needles set adjacent to each other as may be
required. The needles are raised by the grooved bar E (Figure 2) thus
enabling them to seize the yarns, and the descent of the bar E is just
sufficient to cause each needle engaged to draw out as much yarn as is
required to make the stitch. The bar then rises and is allowed to rest a
moment while the needle ring advances (to the right or left), and causes
the leading needle or needles in the series to drop out of the groove in
the bar, and a fresh needle or needles at the rear end to enter the groove
of the bar, the yarns being brought sideways to the series of needles
which are engaged as above explained.
Instead of the driving pawl j and the ratchet teeth i for driving the
screw wheel I can employ a toothed segment measuring about one-fifth
of a circle, fixed on the end of this main shaft G, and arranged so that it
shall, as it revolves, engage a pinion on a shaft provided with a worm
wheel which meshes with the teeth i on the screw wheel, in such a manner
that the segment will cause the said shaft to make one entire revolution
during each engagement of the segment with the pinion, and the screw
wheel be moved one tooth. By means of this mechanism I am enabled
to produce, by knitting, a Scotch cap, so called, having a "bell" or
enlargement all around or partly around its edge, and a vertical band,
with or without a peak; and can also produce caps and hats of various
shapes. After this cap or hat has been knitted it is, if necessary,
"fulled" and then blocked upon a "block or form similar to such as
are commonly used by hatters,
"

page_text: Figure 4 is a representation of one of the caps after it is blocked.
The cap or hat is completed. for wear by lining it, and trimming and
binding its edges.
I can arrange the pattern bars J so that the knitting shall proceed
straight across in parallel rows from edge to edge of the work, using
whatever needles are required, thereby producing a semi-spherical cap
or hat body which is blocked and finished to bring it to the shape
required. By this mode of arranging the pattern bars, as well as in the
manner previously described with reference to making Scotch caps," I can
produce muffs by making the pattern bars longer and thereby producing
an almost entirely spherical fabric, and sewing up the edge left open. The
fabric is then pulled, by which the seam is rendered scarcely observable,
it is then drawn over a block of the proper shape and finished.
In Figure 5 I have shown a cap made in this manner, that is to say,.
by knitting in lines that extend from side to side of the cap.
Figure 6 shows the course of the knitting in producing a cap of such
a form as that shown in Figure 4. The part, Figure 6, marked a, is the
base which forms part of the band of the cap from which the knitting
proceeds in zig-zag lines along the marginal line c to the end of that
line, and then upon the other side of that line in zig-zag lines & opposite
the place of beginning, when in order to complete the "bell" of tho
cap at that part, the margin of the cloth at c, for about the distance of
twenty loops (varying according to the size of the cap) is "picked up
and placed on the needles, and the knitting then proceeds back and forth
in order to produce the part e, so as to form by means of the part e and the
base a a continuous band around the cap. After completing this I knit the
front or peak f, continuing the knitting until cloth enough is produced
to leave a base for the beginning of the next cap after the front or peak f
is cut out and separated therefrom.
"
The second part of this Invention is illustrated in the accompanying
Drawings in Figures 7 to 15 inclusive, in which Figure 7 is a plan view
of a knitting machine containing modifications of some of the parts
shown in the preceding Figures, and Figure 8 is a side clevation thereof
partly in section.
Figure 9 is a central vertical section taken in the line x, x, of Figure 7.
. Figure 10 is an end elevation partly in section showing more in detail.

page_text: -
than in the other Figures, the shifting apparatus by which the direction
of motion of the pattern cylinder is governed automatically.
Figure 11 shows a modification of the "wiper."
Figure 12 shows a plan view of another modification of the wiper
and connections.
Figures 13 and 13* show a modification in the "gate" or bar E
whereby the needles can be changed with facility.
Figure 14 shows a modification for extending the presser so as to act
on a greater number of needles.
Figure 15 represents a front view of the yarn guide detached.
In these Figures of the Drawing the letter A designates the frame of
the machine, and B a needle cylinder provided with vertical grooves in
which the needles a, Figure 9 and Figure 11, move up and down as they
are successively brought into action. The needle ring is enclosed within
a frame D in such a manner that it can be oscillated or turned in either
direction as the direction of the knitting is changed. The up-and-down
movements of the needles are effected, as in the machine described in
the first part of this Specification, by a bar E (Figures 9 and 11) whose
front face is grooved to receive projections (Figure 9 and Figure 11.) of
the needles, which come opposite to it as the needle ring is turned in one
direction or the other, said bar E (Figure 9, Figure 11) is moved up
and down by a vertical slide F (Figure 8, Figure 9) working in
guides b, b, the slide F being operated from the driving shaft G by
means of an eccentric d, Figure 11, and connecting rod e (Figures 8,
9, 11), and rocking arms f, fƒ³, (Figure 8, Figure 9) fixed on the shaft g,
the end of the arm f¹ being connected to the slide F by a connecting
rod made in two parts f², f³, and connected by a nut f³, having a thread
on its exterior and interior, one right, the other left), the inner thread
working on a stem on the end of one part, and the outer thread working
within the other part, in such a manner that by the rotation of the nut
the connecting rod is either lengthened or shortened, and thereby the
extent of motion imparted to the needles is controlled and regulated.
The needle presser y (Figures 7, 9, 11), the detent T (Figures 7, 8, 9),
for engaging the toothed ring N (Figures 7, 9, 11), of the needle cylinder,
the spring pawls q, q' (Figure 7), and their levers P, P, for driving the
needle cylinder with their actuating cams or eccentrics on the driving

page_text: shaft G remain essentially as described in the first part of this Specifi-
cation. The shaft H, shown best in Figures 7, 8, 9, (on which the pattern
cylinder H is supported) has on one end a gear wheel i (Figures 7, 8,
10), which is driven from an eccentric 2 (Figures 7, 8,) on the shaft G
by means of a jointed lever g¹ (Figures 7, S), of the first order, having
its fulcrum at g² (Figure 8). The lever g¹ is constructed and operates
on the principle of an escapement, causing the gear i (Figures 7, 8, 10),
to move one tooth at a time, and locking it after each movement, so that
it can neither move onward from the effect of momentum nor react from
the effect of resistance. The shorter end of the lever is made with a
spring propelling bevelled tooth 93, Figure 8, working in a socket 'in
the said lever, and is provided with a spring detent g' working through
cars formed on the same part of the frame of the machine which
supports the fulcrum of said lever. The shorter end of said lever is
provided with an extension g', which extends between the ears 78, and is
slotted to allow the detent to go through it, and between the said exten-
sion g' and the forward car gº said detent is surrounded by a spiral spring,
one end of which is fastened to the detent, while said detent on the part
between said extension and the back ear gº is provided with a pin g³,
against which the extension strikes when the lever g¹ is vibrated in the
direction of the arrow marked thereon, and the detent is thereby with-
drawn from engagement with the gear, and allows the gear to be moved
by the spring tooth, but the spring tooth and detent are so arranged that
before the detent is withdrawn the bevel of the spring tooth is carried by
the vibration of the lever against and past the adjacent tooth of the gear
wheel so as to engage that tooth by its straight edge, the detent mean-
while holding the wheel stationary, and so soon as the beveled tooth has
passed to that position the continued vibration of the lever operates to
withdraw the detent and allow the reverse movement of the lever to
advance the gear wheel the distance of one tooth, when the detent is
released and is again pushed by its spring between adjacent teeth of the,
gear.
The gear wheel i is supposed in the Drawing to be moving in the
direction of the arrow, Figure 8, and it follows that the pinion j,
Figure 10, engaged by it, will be turned in the opposite direction. The

page_text: bevel gear j*, and through the latter communicates motion by the bevel
gear to the shaft jo, which extends through said hollow shafts j' and
through the sliding clutch and has fixed on its inner end a clutch
gears. The clutch has a wide pinion j formed upon it in such a
position that it will always engage the gear teeth H placed around the
pattern cylinder H' (Figures 7, 10). The clutch carries also an arm j¹º,
which extends upwards ever the pattern cylinder to the rod or bars, to
which it is fastened, and the clutch arm and rod are held stationary after
every reversal of the clutch by means of a spring latch s¹, which has at
its end a pin that enters holes in the arm, so that the rods and the
clutch are locked and prevented from moving endwise. The rod or bar s
is arranged so that it can slide endwise a distance equal to the motion
given to the clutch, and is provided with two independent spiral springs
82, 83, which are separated from each other by an arm u made with an
eye so as to embrace and slide on the rod. The inner ends of the spring
bear against the sides of the arm u, and the outer end of the spring s³
bears against the clutch arm 1, while the outer end of the spring s²
bears against an adjustable collar on the left-hand end of the rod in
Figure 10.
The arm u (Figures 7, 9, 10,) extends from a nut u³ (of
which it is a part) that travels on the screw 20³, which is revolved from
the gear H of tlic pattern cylinder through the pinion (Figures 7, 8,)
fixed on the screw. The arm u (Figures 7, 9, 10,) that extends from the
nut carries on its side (sec Figure 7) a spur gear u³ (Figures 7, 9,) which
is connected by a feather to the rock shaft u (over which the said arm
extends) so that it can slide thereon, and the body of the spur gear is
made large enough to allow a rack arm w (Figures 9, 10,) provided at
its lower end with an antifriction roller to work up and down through it,
the teeth of the rack arm engaging the spur gear so as to rock the said
shaft (Figures 7, 9,) whenever the transverse of nut on its screw
brings the rack arm in contact with one or the other of two shifting
pins (Figure 10), which are set in holes in the periphery of the pattern
cylinder in such positions and in such relation to cach other as will
cause the direction of rotation of the pattern cylinder to be changed
automatically at any desired point of the traverse of the nut on the
screw, so that the machine can continue its work automatically without
requiring the attendant to effect such change of direction.
The reversal of the direction of rotation of the screw is effected by
means of the parts already mentioned through a lifter or cam uº

page_text: .
(Figures 7, 9,) on the rock shaft u, which lifts the spring latch s
(Figures 7, 9, 10,) and unlocks the clutch arm (Figures 7, 9, 10) and
rod 8, which are immediately pushed along by the spring s³ (Figures
7, 10,) towards the right (observing Figure 10) when that spring is
compressed by the arm u (Figures 7 and 10) and are moved towards the
left when the spring så is compressed by said arm, the extent of move-
ment being such as to disengage the clutch at one end and engage it at
the other.
The pattern cylinder is provided on its periphery with pattern bars H³
(Figures 9, 10) one or more, arranged spirally with a pitch equal to the
.pitch of the thread of the screw, and of whatever length is desired,
according to thé variations required in the knitting. The pattern bars
can be changed on the cylinder if desired for changes in the work, or
different cylinders or "skeletons," each having a different length or
different position of pattern bars can be provided and placed on the
cylinder shaft.
The pattern bars H³ furnish the means for shifting the yarn guide K
(Figure 7, 8, 9), and for oscillating or changing the direction of the
needle cylinder. Theso actions are accomplished by a rack arm x
(Figures 7, 9, 10), whose end, provided with an antifriction roller, rests
on the periphery of the pattern cylinder, and when a pattern bar H³ lies
in its path the rack arm is lifted by it and turns a spur gear x¹ (Figure 9) .
which is connected by means of a feather with a rock shaft x (Figures
8, 9), on which is a lifting cam x³ (Figures 7 and 8) that operates the
jointed lever a, and thereby changes the position of the yarn guide K.
The spur gear ¹ (Figure 9), like the spur gear u³ (Figures 7, 9), is
connected to the nut u², and is carried with it to the right or left so as to
come in line with and meet the pattern bars.
The yarn guide K (Figures 7, 8, 9,) has on each end extensions K', K',
(Figure 7) which are each provided with inclined slots K (Figure 15)
near their ends, that receive studs formed on aprons 7, 7, (Figures 7, 15),
which latter are respectively moved by the action of the studs in their
slots so as to intervene between one or the other of the driving pawls
2, 1, (Figure 7) and the teeth on the needle ring when one or the other
of the said pawls is to be brought into or out of action. After the
pattern bar that caused this movement has passed from under the rack
arm the lever is pressed down by a weight or spring as the cam or the

page_text: rock shaft a falls, and the driving pawl which was in operation before
such movement is restored to action, and the rotation of the needle
cylinder proceeds in the direction in which it had been running before
the change occurred.
The wiper 1 (Figures 7, 9, 11,) in these improvements is made of rigid
material, such as metal, wood, or hard rubber in contradistinction to
yielding material, and it is operated from the cam shaft by means of the
eccentric strap & (Figure 11) of the eccentric & which works the needle
slide F (Figures 8, 9,) and by an independent cam in the following
manuer:—On the top of the strap d¹ (Figure 11) a rising arm y is
arranged which carries an antifriction roller, and said arm y is sur-
mounted by a yoke y¹, within which it oscillates with the movements of
the eccentric. From the yoke y extends a lever y² working on a sliding
fulcrum ys, and the other end of the lever is adjustably connected to a
vertical arm y that extends upwards from the wiper 1. The revolution
of the eccentric & causes the yoke y¹ and lever y², and with them the
wiper 1, to be oscillated back and forth, and in addition to this motion
the lever and wiper simultaneously receive a rising and falling motion
by means of a lever y³, whose free end 7° comes up against the under
side of the lever y³ in front of its fulcrum, its other end being in contact
with a cam y formed on the cam shaft G, as shown in Figure 11. The
wiper is pressed downward by means of the spring y', which is arranged
under the back end of the lever y² so as to keep the front end constantly
bearing downwards with a gentle pressure. In this manner a compound
motion is imparted to the wiper, the action of the under lever y³ upon
the lever y² being so timed that the wiper is lifted at the time the wiper
has reached its lowest position and is being moved away from the
needles.
Figure 12 shows a wiper arranged to operate. on a wider extent of
cloth, the wiper being duplicated as at 1, 1, each division being carried
by its own lever y³, which is operated substantially as shown in
Figure 11.
In Figures 13, 13*, are shown a top view and vertical section of the
grooved bar or gate E by means of whose groove (see Figures 11 and 9)
the needles are raised. It has been necessary when a needle was broken
to remove this bar or gate in order to get the broken needic out of the
gate, but by means of the improvement shown in Figures 13, 13*, this

page_text: can be accomplished without removing the gate. Said improvement
consists in making the gate or bar of two plates, the lower one of which E
is rebated in front at e, and the upper one of which E' forms with the
rebate e the groove required to receive the projecting ribs of the
needles. This upper plate is secured on the main plate E by means of
pins P, P, protruding from plate E up into elongated slots H, H, in the
upper plate E', so that the plate E¹ can be moved backwards or forwards.
It is kept in the forward or advanced position shown in the Figure 13
by means of springs I, I, arranged in it and in the main part E of the
gate, and when it is necessary to remove a needle the upper plate E' is
pressed back by pushing against the lug S so as to allow the lug h of
the needle to be lifted out of the rebate or groove e, a new needle can be
then put in, and on releasing the plate E' its springs I press it forward
over the rebate e so as to confine the needle.
The object of the modification shown in Figure 14 is to enable me to
employ needles throughout one-half or nearly one-half of the needle
ring. To do this it is necessary that the presser be extended so as to act
on the needles to that extent.
The needle pressers Y are six in number in the Drawing, but the
Invention is not confined to any particular number. They are mounted
in the frame so as to be capable of being moved laterally, each being
provided with a stem Y' having an antifriction roller Y² arranged in
such a position as to be severally in the path of cams Y³ which project
from the front of a slide Y from which extends a stem that is acted on
by the presser cam Z.
When it is desired to use a large number of needles the needle
pressers Y are continued around the needle ring to the extent or distance
occupied by the number of needles to be used, and the pressers are
severally actuated from the slide Y' by means of its cams Y³ which aro
pusled (when the slide is moved) against the antifriction rollers Y..
When the range of needles is lessened the supernumerary presser or
pressers is put out of action by removing the proper cam Y³ from the
slide Y', or by removing the antifriction roller from the supernumerary
presser so that the slide will not act on it.
Having described the nature of the Invention and the manner of per-
forming the same I declare that what I claim as the Invention to be
protected by the herein-before in part recited Letters Patent is,
C

page_text: First. The combination of the screw wheel H and pattern bars J,
constructed and arranged substantially as described.
Secondly.. The screw wheel H and adjustable segmental pattern
bars J in combination with the nuts or levers L, L, and rock shafts M, M',
substantially as and for the purpose described.
..
Thirdly. The combination of the screw wheel H, rock shafts M, M',
and the aprons 1, 7", operated from said shafts with the needle ring B,
substantially as described, so that the direction of the motion of the
needle ring is changed automatically by means of the screw wheel.
Fourth. The movable yarn guide U in combination with the aprons
,, one or both so arranged that the elevation of the apron throws the
yarn guide away from the direction of motion, substantially as described.
Fifth. The combination of the driving pawls q, q³, by which the needle
ring derives motion from the main shaft G, with the levers R, R', and
aprons,, substantially as described.
Sixth. A knitted cap or hat, hat body or muff, produced by knitting
in opposite directions, substantially as described.
Seventh. In combination with suitable devices the extensible con-
necting rod f to vary the extent of motion of the bar E and needles,
substantially as set forth.
Eighth. The escapement lever g¹ provided with a tooth and detent in
combination with a cam shaft and driving shaft, substantially as
described.
Ninth. The sliding clutch and the clutch gear in combination with a
nut and screw u³, or their equivalents, and the pattern cylinder H', 2
substantially as described.
Tenth. The combination of the screw u³, nut u², spur gear x³, and
rock arma, or equivalent device, with the yarn guide K, substantially ·
as described.
Eleventh. The combination of the sliding clutch and clutch gears 3
and their connections with the pattern cylinder, substantially as set
forth.
A
Twelfth. The lever y², y, or an equivalent device, arranged and
operated substantially as described in combination with the wiper 1, as
set forth.
2:

page_text: Thirteenth. A wiper 1 constructed of rigid material, substantially aš
described.
Fourteenth. The arrangement of the sectional wiper above described
referring to Figure 12 of the Drawing.
Fifteenth. The arrangement or construction of the gate or bar E, E¹,
above described and as shown in Figures 13 and 13*.
Sixteenth. The construction and arrangement of pressers Y, sub-
stantially as set forth in Figure 14, in combination with suitable devices
for operating them when desired from the slide Y', as above described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Alexander Melville Clark, have
hereunto set my hand and seal, this Tenth-day of July, in the
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-
five.