IMPROVEMENTS IN BOOTS AND SHOES
Year: 1884

page_text: I THOMAS FRANKS of Portland Street, Northampton in the County of
Northampton Boot Manufacturer do hereby declare the nature of my invention
for "IMPROVEMENTS IN BOOTS AND SHOES" to be as follows:-
This invention relates more particularly to shooting boots, the object being to
obviate the inconvenience to the wearer by the pressure on the instep caused by
the stiffness of the boot at that part, such stiffness being due to the number of
thicknesses of leather at the instep seam; and the invention consists practically in
placing the tongue outside instead of inside the boot as heretofore.
To this end I cut the galoclie, the tongue, and the back strip all in one piece, and
I make the join or seam preferably on one side of the heel.
The leg portion or quarters I form in the usual way, and attach them to the
galoche by sewing in the ordinary manner, but underneath the tongue. The tongue
I attach on one side by sewing, or otherwise, to one of the quarters, the other side
of the tongue being provided with straps or books or other convénient fastening
arrangement, whereby it may be fastened down to the other quarter or other part
of the boot as may be desired. Inside the boot I secure to the free edges of the
quarters a soft leather gusset, which will serve to prevent the entrance of water
into the boot.
In a boot formed as above described, the stiffness of the boot at the instep is
obviated, the appearance of the boot is improved, and pockets or spaces in which
mud and dirt can collect are avoided.
It will be evident that my invention is equally applicable to ordinary boots of
the Balmoral and similar types, and also to Oxford and similar shoes.
D
كيمو

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
I THOMAS FRANKS of Portland Street Northampton, in the County of
Northampton, Boot Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of my invention
for "IMPROVEMENTS IN BOOTS AND SHOES" and in what manner the same is
to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement :—
The present Invention relates to an improvement in the manufacture of boots
and shoes, and more particularly shooting boots, whereby the number of thicknesses
of leather at the "joints" and instep is reduced, and the vamp seams are entirely
dispensed with, thus relieving the wearer from the stiffness of the boot across the
"joints" and instep while preserving for the boot its waterproof character and
handsome appearance.
•
In making a boot according to my Invention I cut the golosb, the front or tongue,
and the back strip all in one piece, and I unite the edges of the golosh preferably
at one side of the heel. The leg portion or quarters I form in the usual way, and
attach them to the golosh by sewing in the ordinary manner, but underneath the
front piece or tongue. The tongue I attach at one side, by sewing or otherwise, to
one of the quarters, and to the other side of the tongue I fit straps hooks or other
fastening devices, for attaching it to the other quarter, or other part of the boot as
may be desired. Inside the boot I secure to the quarters a soft leather gusset
which prevents the entrance of water into the boot.
The invention will be readily understood on reference to the accompanying
Drawing in which Figures 1 and 2 are outside and inside views respectively of a
shooting boot constructed according to my Invention. Fig: 3 is a plan of the
golosh, front or tongue, and back strip, all cut in one piece of leather; as it appears
before it is made up, and Fig: 4 is a section on the line 1. 2 of Fig: 1.
In these figures-the-same-letters-of-reference-indicate-like or corresponding parts.
A is the golosh, B the front or tongue, and C the back strip; all cut in one piece
as shewn clearly in fig: 3 D. D¹. are the quarters, whose front edges underlie the
front or tongue B, when in place; and E is the gusset of soft leather situate within
the boot and attached to the quarters.
One of the quarters, say the inside quarter D is secured by stitching to the inside
edge of the back strip, golosh, and one side or half of the tongue B respectively, as
at b. b Fig: 2; while the other quarter say the outside quarter D¹ is similarly
secured to the inside edge of the back strip C and golosh A, as at 61. 6 Fig: 1;
but is not permanently united to the tongue B, to allow of the boot being opened
for the insertion of the foot. The tongue B and quarter D¹ are fitted with hooks
or other suitable fastenings d. d so that the boot may be laced, buttoned or secured
by straps upon the foot of the wearer and somewhat to one side of the boot. The
edges of the golosh A are united by a join or seam a. a preferably on the inside of
the heel of the golosh, as shown in Fig: 2, in which position it is not noticeable.
The boot is preferably provided with a toe cap F, applied in the ordinary manner.
From the foregoing it will be seen that I avoid the vamp seams across the
"joints" which exist in ordinary boots and shoes owing to the quarters, the vamp,
the inside tongue, and sometimes a false tongue, overlapping one another and being

page_text: all secured together by stitching across this part; and I have an undivided front
or tongue in one with the golosh secured to the quarters by stitching as in an
ordinary golosh. In my boot I only require two thicknesses of leather at the
root of the tongue and have no seams over the vamps.
In a boot made as above described the stiffness of the boot at the "joint" and
instep is obviated, the appearance of the boot is improved, and there is no open fly
to form pockets or spaces in which mud and dirt can collect or exist owing to the
smooth unbroken front, and side fastening.
It will be evident that my Invention is equally applicable to ordinary boots of
the Balmoral and similar types and also to Oxford and similar shoes as well as to
shooting boots, to which the Invention has been shewn as applied by way of
example.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
Invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is
.
Manufacturing boots and shoes in the manner herein above setforth whereby
I obviate stiffness and unnecessary pressure at the "joints" and instep.
Dated this 16th day of March 1885.
NEWTON & SON,
Agents for the Applicant.