Improvements in and in the Method of Producing Gathered or Plaited Garments and Goods.
Year: 1894

page_text: Date of Application, 11th Sept., 1894
Complete Specification Left, 31st May, 1895-Accepted, 13th July, 1895
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in and in the Method of Producing Gathered or
Plaited Garments and Goods.
I ROBERT POTTER of 46 Bold Street, Moss Side, Manchester, in the County
of Lancaster, Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be
as follows
My said invention relates to improvements in the mode of producing gathered
or plaited work in garments as for instance at the neck, waist, sleeves or other
parts.
At present such plaited or gathered parts are produced by hand or by the use of
plaiting mechanism in the machine, the plaits or gathers being stitched in position
and any overlaying cording or binding being stitched upon the plaiting or
gathering.
According to my invention I can produce similar and even considerably finer
work in the machine without any plaiting mechanism, and possessing several
inherent advantages over the present manufacture. In carrying my invention into
effect I make use of overlaying cording or binding and in passing the goods
through the machine, when such is used, stitch the cording to the material by
cross stitches the stitches being bound by the shuttle thread on the other side as
usual.
I might use one overlaying cord or several cords side by side, and when such
cording is laid in parallel lines, one shuttle may bind two cross stitch threads two
or more needles being used if required. I do not however confine myself to this
mode of binding the cross stitches as this would depend upon the class of machine
used. The cording is laid by needles or guides as the work proceeds. The plaiting
or gathering of the work is effected by pulling on the stitched-on cording which
draws the work together into fine plaits or gathers.
This drawing up of the work may be effected during the progress of the seam
or it may be effected afterwards.
I thus obtain plaited or gathered goods without the use of plaiting mechanism or
without the trouble of plaiting when done by hand and the goods have also a better
appearance than ordinary plaited work. Besides in drawing up I can exactly
limit the extent of the plaited or gathered part and can if desired produce effects
of alternate plaited and plain portions. The gist of my invention however lies
in the production of the plaiting or gathering by the utilization of the stitched
on cording to produce the same, instead of employing hand work or plaiting
apparatus as at present.
Dated this 10th day of September 1894.
E. K. DUTTON & Co.,
5 John Dalton Street, Manchester, Agents.

page_text: Improvements in and in the Method of Producing Gathered or
Plaited Garments and Goods.
I ROBERT POTTER of 46 Bold Street, Moss Side, Manchester, in the County
of Lancaster, Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and
in what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement and accompanying drawings :-
My said invention relates to improvements in the mode of producing gathered
or plaited work in garments as for instance at the neck, waist, sleeves or other
parts.
At present such plaited or gathered parts are produced by hand or by the use of
plaiting mechanism in the machine, the plaits or gathers being stitched in position
and any overlaying cording or binding being stitched upon the plaiting or
gathering..
According to my invention I can produce similar and even considerably finer
"work in the machine without any plaiting mechanism and possessing several
inherent advantages over the present manufacture.
I
The accompanying sheet of drawings will be of assistance in showing how my
invention is carried into practical effect.
Fig. 1 is a diagram to an enlarged scale of a piece of fabric with the overlaid
cording stitched thereto.
Fig. 2 shows the fabric drawn together and puckered into folds or plaits!
Fig. 3 shows on the left hand the fabric before plaiting, and on the right hand
the same after plaiting.
In carrying my invention into effect I make use of overlaying cording or
binding a and in passing the goods through the machine; when such is used, I stitch
the cording a to the material 6 by cross stitches c the stitches being bound by the
shuttle thread on the under side as usual.
I might use one overlaying cord a or several cords side by side as shown in
Fig. 3, and when such cording is laid in parallel lines one shuttle may bind two
cross stitch threads c, two or more needles being used if required. I do not
however confine myself to this mode of binding the cross stitches as this would
depend upon the class of machine used. The cording is laid by needles or guides
in the ordinary manner as the work proceeds. After the cording has been stitched
upon the straight fabric b as shown at Fig. 1 and on the left hand side of Fig. 3,
the plaiting or gathering of the work is effected by pulling on the stitched-on
cording or by pressing or slipping the fabric together along the cording so as to
draw the work together into fine plaits or gathers as shown in Fig. 2 and on the
right hand side of Fig. 3.
This drawing up or plaiting of the work may be effected during the progress of
the seam or it may be effected afterwards.
For example when effecting the plaiting during the progress of the seam.It secure
the free end or ends of the cord or cords so as to hold the same tight and in
tension. At each stitch the feeder foot of the machine slips a tuck along the
tightened cord or cords the result being that the goods are plaited in the same
manner as when pressing the plaits up by hand.
I thus obtain plaited or gathered goods without the use of special plaiting
mechanism or without the trouble of the usual hand plaiting and the goods have
also a better appearance than ordinary plaited work.
Besides in drawing up I can exactly limit the extent of the plaited or gathered
part and can if desired produce effects of alternate plaited and plain portions.

page_text: The gist of my invention however lies in the production of the plaiting or
gathering by the utilization of the stitched on slip cording to produce the same,
instead of employing hand work or plaiting apparatus as at present.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is.
The improved mode of producing gathered or plaited goods of the indicated
description, substantially as described and as illustrated.
Dated the 30th day of May 1895:
E. K. DUTTON
Co.,
5 John Dalton Street, Manchester, Chartered Patent Agents,
For the Applicant.