CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES AND THEIR SHUTTLES, AND IN ATTACH- MENTS TO SEWING MACHINES FOR SEWING DIFFERENT SEAMS AND FANCY STITCHES
Year: 1869

page_text: ETTERS PATENT to Henri Adrien Bonneville, of the British and
Foreign Patent Offices, 10, Sackville Street, Piccadilly, in the
County of Middlesex, and 18, Chaussée d'Antin, Paris, in the
Empire of France, Patent Agent, for the Invention of "CERTAIN
IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES AND THEIR SHUTTLES, AND IN ATTACH-
MENTS TO SEWING MACHINES FOR SEWING DIFFERENT SEAMS AND FANCY
STITCHES." A communication from Albin Warth, residing at
Stapleton, in the State of New York, United States of America,
Machinist.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Henri Adrien Bonne-
ville at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition,
on the 10th April 1869.
I, HENRI ADRIEN BONNEVILLE, of the British and Foreign Patent
Offices, 10, Sackville Street, Piccadilly, in the County of Middlesex, and
18, Chaussée d'Antin, Paris, in the Empire of France, Patent Agent,
do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "CERTAIN IM-
PROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES AND THEIR SHUTTLES, AND IN ATTACHMENTS
A

page_text: TO SEWING MACHINES FOR SEWING DIFFERENT SEAMS AND FANCY STITCHES," a
communication from Albin Warth, a person resident at Stapleton, in
the State of New York, United States of America, Machinist, to be as
follows:-
The various improvements embraced in the following description
relate to a sewing machine with a reciprocating shuttle, and also to
sewing machines with a shuttle travelling in a circular race which may
be situated in a vertical or in a horizontal plane.
These improvements consist, 1st, in making the needle bar and the
presser slide, either or both, in the form of tubes closed below so as to
prevent the oil used in lubricating the same from falling on the table
and soiling the work.
2nd. In the combination of a common holding plate or screw with the
guide rods of the tubular needle bar and the tubular presser slide in such
a manner that the operation of fastening said guide rods in position is
materially facilitated.
3rd. In making the guide rods of the tubular needle bar and of the
tubular presser slide hollow so that the air is allowed to pass in and out
of the slides during their descent and ascent on the guide rods, and that
room is obtained for adjusting and operating various attachments for
making different scams and fancy stitches.
4th. In the arrangement of a thread guide on the presser foot in such
a manner that by bringing the needle eye opposite to this thread guide
the operation of threading the needle is facilitated and the side from
which the thread is to be introduced cannot be missed.
5th. The arrangement of a reverse guiding flange on the side of the
shuttle race to engage with a corresponding flange on the shuttle in
such a manner that the needle thread is prevented from being caught
between the shuttle and the race, and that the shuttle is kept close to
the side of the race in the proper position to catch the loop of the needle
thread.
6th. In the arrangement of a hook on the end of the guiding flange
of the shuttle race in such a manner that the needle thread is retained
in position to be caught by the point of the shuttle and the motion and
length of the needle can be reduced.
7th. In the arrangement of disconnected friction pins in the shuttle
in such a manner that the shuttle thread can be readily passed over

page_text: their free ends without the necessity of withdrawing said thread from
the holes in the side of the shuttle, and thereby the operation of
regulating the tension of the needle thread is materially facilitated.
8th. The construction of the shuttle with a depression on its back
between the point and a swell, from which the shuttle rapidly falls off
towards its heel in such a manner that said shuttle is enabled to pass
through the loop of the needle thread without producing an undue
strain thereon, while the needle moves with a simple and direct
reciprocation without a pause, or a pause and retrograde movement
combined.
9th. In the arrangement of a spring attached to the needle lever and
bearing on the needle slide in such a manner that all dead motion in the
connection between the needle slide and needle lever is avoided, and the
needle slide can be moved at a rapid rate without noise.
10th. In the arrangement of a plain eccentric connecting with the
needle lever by a universal joint and serving to impart motion to said
needle lever in such a manner that the connection rod between the
eccentric and the needle lever is free to follow the motions of the
eccentric, and a plain eccentric can be used to produce the required
reciprocating motion of the needle.
11th. In the arrangement of a tension device in combination with the
take-up, both being connected so that they move together, and the
thread being carried directly from the tension device to and through a
hole in the take-up for the purpose of keeping the thread in such a
position that its tension will not be varied during the vibrations of the
take-up.
12th. In the arrangement of a double-armed lever actuated by the
feed slide, and acting on toes projecting from a rock shaft which actuates
the feed dog or feed wheel, in such a manner that by moving the feed
slide either one or the other of the arms of said double-armed lever is
brought in gear with one of the toes of the rock shaft, and thereby the
feed motion can be reversed without difficulty.
13th. In the arrangement of a lever with two shoulders and a
restoring spring in combination with the clutch which actuates the feed
wheel in such a manner that the clutch is caused to engage with the
feed wheel in whichever direction said lever may be moved, and conse
12

page_text: quently by the action of said lever and clutch the feed wheel can be
propelled in either direction.
14th. In the arrangement of an adjustable plate or stop in combina-
tion with two jaws connected with the feed mechanism in such a manner
that by adjusting said stop in relation to the jaws the length of the
stitches can be regulated.
15th. In the arrangement of a box composed of two elastic rings, a
rigid plate, and a spring plate in combination with the feed wheel in
such a manner that said feed wheel has its support in clastic bear-
ings, although its axis is held to its bearing in a rigid and unyielding
manner.
16th. In the arrangement of a hollow axis and a hollow hub
closed at one end in combination with the feed wheel in such a
manner that said feed wheel can be oiled without danger of soiling the
work.
17th. In the arrangement of a shoulder and projecting flange, cither
or both, in such a manner that when the shuttle retreats said shoulder
carries the shuttle thread back out of the way of the descending needle,
and by the flange the thread is retained in such a position that it
cannot form a loop, and that the needle on its descent will not become
entangled with the shuttle thread, thereby avoiding the formation of
knots.
18th. In the arrangement of a cage fitting on a shank projecting from
the lower end of the needle bar and provided with a clamping screw in
combination with the flat shank of the needle in such a manner that by
means of said cage the needle can be firmly and conveniently clamped
to the needle bar.
19th. In the arrangement of a curved neck at the lower end of the
bar supporting the presser foot in such a manner that the manipulation
of the work to be served is facilitated.
20th. In the arrangement of a raised eye on the shuttle in such a
manner that the shuttle thread on passing out of this eye is held in a
convenient position to be caught by the cast-off hooks, which will herc-
after be described.
21st. In the arrangement of depressions in the run in such a
manner that said shuttle in passing through the loop of the needle
thread will not produce an injurious friction on said thread.

page_text: 22nd. In the arrangement of shoulders projecting from the shuttle on
a level with the spool and forming the bearings for the shuttle
driver and serving to carry the shuttle round in its circular race in
such a manner that all undue friction of the shuttle against its race
is avoided, and. the shuttle moves on its race with the greatest possible
case.
23rd.. In the arrangement of a projecting rim on the back of the
shuttle to engage with a circular groove in the shuttle race in such a
manner that the shuttle driver is relieved from the weight of the shuttle,
and the loop of the needle thread can pass freely through between the
shuttle and the shuttle driver..
24th. In the arrangement of an additional segmental lip projecting
from the back of the shuttle into a groove in the shuttle race in such a
manner that the shuttle is prevented from bearing against the rim of
the shuttle race, its- bearing being thrown on the edge of the groove
which is closer to the centre of motion, thereby diminishing the friction
and power required for driving the shuttle.
25th. In the combination. of a smooth eccentric which operates the
needle lever, a. shuttle which. travels in a circular race, and an eye-
pointed needle in such a manner that each stitch is finished before the
next stitch is commenced..
26th. In the arrangement of shoulders on the circular rim in the
shuttle race on the side of the needle channel in such a manner that the
loop of the needle thread is prevented from being carried between the
back of the shuttle race..
27th. In the arrangement of an annular depression in the shuttle race
to take in the points of the noses, whereby the latter are enabled to
catch hold of the shuttle thread and impart to it the requisite tension
for finishing the stitch before the shuttle arrives in the position opposite
the needle.
28th. In, the arrangement of cast-off hooks projecting from the shuttle
race and serving to disengage the shuttle thread from the noses of the
shuttle driver at the proper moment.
29th. In the arrangement of a radial depression in the shuttle race in
such a manner that the shuttle thread is free to move sideways out of
the way of the descending needle.

page_text: 30th. In the arrangement of a protector surrounding the moveable
head of the clastic centre, so as to prevent the shuttle thread from
catching behind said head.
31st. In the arrangement of a hinged door on the shuttle driver to
facilitate the operation of introducing and removing the shuttle.
32nd. In the arrangement of a double cam on the shuttle driver
acting on the feed mechanism in such a manner that the requisite feed
motion is produced in whatever direction the shuttle driver moves.
33rd. In the arrangement of an oscillating lever supporting the throat
plate in such a manner that the work is raised out of the rough surfaces
of the feed dog when said dog ręcedes, and depressed upon the feed dog
when the feed is to take place.
34th. In the arrangement of a self-adjusting cam in combination with
the oscillating lever and throat plate in such a manner that the rising
and falling motion of the throat plate takes place at the proper time in
whatever direction the driving shaft is turned.
35th. In the arrangement of a moveable block or shoe on the
oscillating lever and opposite to the moving cam in such a manner that
if one portion of said shoe is worn out a fresh surface can be brought
opposite to the cam and a correct operation of the oscillating lever is
ensured.
36th. In the arrangement of a tappet arm on a sliding rod running
parallel to the main shaft in combination with the conical double-
shouldered hub of the shuttle driver and with the feed dog, in such a
manner that by sliding the rod of the tappet arm in or out the feed is
adjusted in whatever direction the main shaft may revolve.
37th. In the arrangement of an arm oscillating on a pin situated in
line with or parallel to the main shaft and supporting the feed dog in
combination with a rising and falling cloth plate in such a manner
that by the oscillating motion of the arm, which carries the feed dog the.
required feed motion is produced in either direction, while by the rising
and falling motion of the cloth plate the work is thrown in or out of
contact with the rough surface of the feed dog.
38th. In the arrangement of a slotted hub projecting from the
eccentric which serves to impart motion to the needle cam in
combination with a stud projecting from the main shaft in such a manner

page_text: that said eccentric is capable of adjusting itself for sewing in either
direction.
39th. In the arrangement of a slotted hub projecting from the cam
which operates the take-up in combination with a stud or catch secured
to the hub of the eccentric of the needle arm in such a manner that
said cam is capable of adjusting itself for sewing in either direction.
40th. In the arrangement of a brake in combination with the loose
self-adjusting cam and spring actuating the take-up in such a manner
that said cam is prevented. from. being changed in its position by the
action of the spring:
41st. In placing the shuttle race, the shuttle driver, and the feeder on
the line of the main shaft in such a manner that the adjustment of the
various parts in relation to each other and the construction of the
machine are materially facilitated.
42nd. In the arrangement of a finger projecting from the eccentric
rod operating the needle arm. and acting on the take-up in such a
manner that the thread is released at the proper moment by a positive
motion imparted to the take-up in the required direction...
43rd. In the arrangement of a cam wheel in combination with the
presser foot and cloth plate in such a manner that a reciprocating
motion is imparted to the work. and various stitches and seams can be
produced.
44th. In the arrangement of a pawl operated by the needle bar or
needle lever in combination with a cam wheel which governs the
embroidery attachment or the motion of the presser foot and throat
plate in such a manner that the motion of said cam wheel is produced in
a simple and effective way.
45th. In the arrangement of a swivel pláte under the presser foot in
combination with a guide rod in such a manner that said swivel plate is
kept parallel by the guide rod while the presser foot oscillates, and
thereby the required zig-zag motion is imparted to the work without an
additional oscillating motion:
46th. In connecting the throat plate with the presser foot, which
receives an oscillating motion by a cam of suitable shape, in such a
manner that by the action of said cam. on the presser foot the throat
plate, and consequently the work placed on it, receives a reciprocating

page_text: motion in a direction transversely to the feed motion, and thereby seams.
and stitches of various description can be produced.
47th. In the arrangement of a flange projecting downwards from the
throat plate and engaging with the feed dog in such a manner that
said feed dog is compelled to participate in the reciprocating motion of
the throat plate, and thereby the correct motion of the work is better
secured.
48th. In the arrangement of a lip projecting upwards from the
moveable throat plate and acting as a central edge gauge for two pieces
of leather or other material to be sewed together edge to edge in such a
manner that by said lip and moveable throat plate a zig-zag motion is
imparted to the two pieces of material, and the needle is caused to pass
first through one and then through the other piece, and a zig-zag edge
seam is produced whereby the two pieces of material are firmly united
edge to edge.
49th. In the arrangement of a guiding screw projecting from or
secured in the presser foot in combination with the central edge gauge
in such a manner that said edge gauge is compelled to move with the
presser foot, and that its position can be regulated to conform to the
desired course of the seam.
50th. In the arrangement of a hinged spring lever provided with a set
screw which bears against a stationary lip and with a projection which
acts on the cam wheel in combination with the rod which transmits the
motion produced by the cam wheel to the presser foot in such a manner
that the amount of motion to be transmitted from the cam wheel to the
presser foot can be increased or diminished according to the nature of
the stitch to be produced.
51st. In the arrangement of a sliding toe in combination with the
pawl which engages with the ratchet teeth of the cam wheel in such a
manner that by the action of said toe on the pawl the amount of motion
imparted to the cam wheel at every stroke of the needle rod can be
regulated.
52nd. In the arrangement of a centre point in combination with a
reciprocating throat plate and cam wheel in such a manner that the
pattern controlled by the cam wheel can be sewed in a circle.
53rd. In the arrangement of an adjustable edge gauge in combination
with the reciprocating throat plate and cam wheel in such a manner

page_text: that one piece of cloth or other material can be sewed on another piece
by a semi-overhand stitch.
54th. In the arrangement of an embroidery attachment actuated by a
cam wheel which receives its motion from the needle bar or needle.
lever in such a manner that said embroidery attachment can be
readily attached to the sewing machine or removed therefrom, and that
it does not interfere with the use of the sewing machine for ordinary
purposes.
55th. In the arrangement of a bearing spring on the presser foot in
such a manner that when the presser foot rises said spring continues to
exert a slight pressure on the material to be sewed, and thereby said
material is prevented from getting displaced.
56th. In the arrangement of an arm and brace in combination with a
vertical shaft carrying the shuttle driver and with the cloth plate or
frame of the sewing mechanism in such a manner that said sewing
mechanism can be swivelled round the vertical shaft without disturbing
its motion.
57th. In the arrangement of an independent take-up operated directly
from a cam on the main shaft in combination with a double-pointed
shuttle in such a manner that the motion of the take-up takes place at
the proper moment in whichever direction the shuttle travels.
58th. In the arrangement of shoulders on the double-pointed shuttle
radiating from the centre of the shuttle race in such a manner that the
action of the shuttle driver on the shuttle has no tendency to force the
same out of its circular course or orbit.
59th. In the arrangement of a winding attachment in combination
with the clastic centre of the circular shuttle race in such a manner
that said winding attacliment can be applied and operated with ease and
convenience.
60th. In the arrangement of a loose cap in combination with the
clastic centre in such a manner that said cap is free to accomodate
itself to the inner surface of the shuttle race or of its top plate or
cover.
61st. In the arrangement of a hooked pin in the shuttle in com-
bination with a straight open pin therein in such a manner that the

page_text: shuttle thread is prevented from slipping off or coming in contact with
the spool in the shuttle.
62nd. In the arrangement of a single point on the feed bar in com-
bination with an adjustable centre point in such a manner that the
operation of sewing circular scams or fancy stitches can be effected
without wrinkling the work..
63rd. In the arrangement of an adjustable cam on the main cam in
combination with the feed bar in such a manner that by adjusting said
cam the feed motion can be set to correspond to the direction. in which
the machine is turned..
64th. In the arrangement of a recess in the presser foot in combination
with an adjustable spring and with a shoulder in such a manner that by
said spring the braid is kept in close contact with the shoulder, and a
braid can be sewed down close to the edge of the work in straight,
angular, or curved lines.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of tlic Letters Patent,
filed by the said Henri Adrien Bonneville in the Great Seal Patent:
Office on the 18th August 1869.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, HENRI
ADRIEN BONNEVILLE, of the British and Foreign Patent Offices, 10,
Sackville Strect, Piccadilly, in the County of Middlesex, and 18;
Chaussée d'Antin, Paris, in the Empire of France, Patent Agent, send
greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Tenth day of April, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-nine, in the
thirty-second year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and suc-
cessors, give and grant unto me, the said Henri Adrien Bonneville, Her
special licence that I, the said Henri Adrien Bonneville, my exccutors,
administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Henri Adrien
Bonneville, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any
time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times
thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might
make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great

page_text: Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention
for "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES AND THEIR SHUTTLES, AND
IN ATTACHMENTS TO SEWING MACHINES FOR SEWING DIFFERENT SEAMS AND FANCY
STITCHES," a communication from Albin Warth, a person resident at
Stapleton, in the State of New York, United States of America,
Machinist, upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said Henri
Adrien Bonneville, my executors or administrators, by an instrument in
writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should par-
ticularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in
what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to
be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months
next and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Henri Adrien Bonneville, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same
is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement :-
The various improvements embraced in the following description relate
to a sewing machine with a reciprocating shuttle, and also to sewing
machines with a shuttle travelling in a circular race which may be
situated in a vertical or in a horizontal plan.
These improvements consist, 1st, in making the needle bar and the
presser slide, either or both, in the form of tubes, closed below so as to
prevent the oil used in lubricating the same from falling on the table
and soiling the work.
2nd. In the combination of a common holding plate or screw with
the guide rods of the tubular needle bar and the tubular presser slide in
such a manner that the operation of fastening said guide rods in position
is materially facilitated.
3rd. In making the guide rods of the tubular needle bar and of the
tubular presser slide hollow so that the air is allowed to pass in and out
of the slides during their descent and ascent on the guide rods, and that
room is obtained for adjusting and operating various attachments for
making different seams and fancy stitches.
4th. In the arrangement of a thread guide on the presser foot in such
a manner that by bringing the needle eye opposite to this thread guide
the operation of threading the needle is facilitated, and the side from
which the thread is to be introduced cannot be missed.

page_text: 5th. The arrangement of a reverse guiding flange on the side of the
shuttle race to engage with a corresponding flange on the shuttle in such
a manner that the needle thread is prevented from being caught between
the shuttle and the race, and that the shuttle is kept close to the side of
the race in the proper position to catch the loop of the needle thread.
6th. In the arrangement of a hook on the end of the guiding flange
of the shuttle race in such a manner that the needle thread is retained
in position to be caught by the point of the shuttle, and the motion and
length of the needle can be reduced.
7th. In the arrangement of disconnected friction pins in the shuttle
in such a manner that the shuttle thread can be readily past over their
free ends without the necessity of withdrawing said thread. from the
holes in the side of the shuttle, and thereby the operation of regulating,
the tension of the needle thread is materially facilitated.
8th. The construction of the shuttle with a depression on its back
between the point and a swell from which the shuttle rapidly falls off
towards its heel in such a manner that said shuttle is enabled to pass.
through the loop of the needle thread without producing an undue strain
thercon, while the needle moves with a simple and direct reciprocation,
without a pause or a pause and retrograde movement combined..
9th. In the arrangement of a spring attached to the needle lever and
bearing on the needle slide in such a manner that all dead motion in the
connection between the needle slide and needle lever is avoided and the
needle slide can be moved at a rapid rate without noise.
10th. In the arrangement of a plain eccentric connecting with the
needle lever by a universal joint and serving to impart motion to said
needle lever in such a manner that the connection rod between the
eccentric and the needle lever is free to follow the motions of the eccentric,.
and a plain eccentric can be used to produce the required reciprocating
motion of the needle.
11th. The arrangement of a tension device in combination with the
take-up, both being connected so that they move together, and the
thread being carried directly from the tension device to and through a
hole in the take-up for the purpose of keeping the thread in such a
position that its tension will not be varied during the vibrations of the
take-up.

page_text: 12th. In the arrangement of a double-armed lever actuated by the
feed slide, and acting on toes projecting from a rock shaft which actuates
the feed dog or feed wheel, in such a manner that by moving the feed
slide either one or the other of the arms of said double-armed lever is
brought in gear with one of the toes of the rock shaft, and thereby the
feed motion can be reversed without difficulty.
13th. In the arrangement of a lever with two shoulders and a restoring
spring in combination with the clutch which actuates the feed wheel in
such a manner that the clutch is caused to engage with the feed wheel
in whichever direction said lever may be moved, and consequently by
the action of said lever and clutch the feed wheel can be propelled in
either direction.
14th. In the arrangement of an adjustable plate or stop in combina-
tion with two jaws connected with the feed mecanism in such a manner
that by adjusting said stop in relation to the jaws the length of the
stitches can be regulated.
15th. In the arrangement of a box composed of two clastic rings, a
rigid plate, and a spring plate in combination with the feed wheel in
such a manner that said feed wheel has its support in elastic bearings
although its axis is held to its bearing in a rigid and unyielding
manner.
16th. In the arrangement of a hollow axis and a hollow hub closed at
one end in combination with the feed wheel in such a manner that said
feed wheel can be oiled without danger of soiling the work.
17th. In the arrangement of a shoulder and projecting flange, either
or both, in such a manner that when the shuttle retreats said shoulder
carrics the shuttle thread back out of the way of the descending needle,
and by the flange the thread is retained in such a position that it cannot
form a loop, and that the, needle on its descend will not become entangled
with the shuttle thread, thereby avoiding the formation of knots.
18th. In the arrangement of a cage fitting on a shank projecting from
the lower end of the needle bar and provided with a clamping screw in
combination with the flat shank of the needle in such a manner that
by means of said cage the needle can be firmly and conveniently clamped
to the needle bar.
19th. In the arrangement of a curved neck at the lower end of the

page_text: bar supporting the presser foot in such a manner that the manipulation
of the work to be sewed is facilitated.
20th. In the arrangement of a raised eye on the shuttle in such a
manner that the shuttle thread on passing out of this eye is held in
a convenient position to be caught by the cast off hooks, which will
hereafter be described.
21st. In the arrangements of depression in the rim in such a manner
that said shuttle in passing through the loop of the needle thread will
not produce an injurious friction on said thread.
22nd. In the arrangement of shoulders projecting from the shuttle on
a level with the spool and forming the bearings for the shuttle driver
and serving to carry the shuttle round in its circular race in such a
manner that all undue friction of the shuttle against its race is
avoided and the shuttle moves in its race with the greatest possible
case.
23rd. In the arrangement of a projecting rim on the back of the
shuttle to engage with a circular groove in the shuttle race in such a
manner that the shuttle driver is relieved from the weight of the shuttle,
and the loop of the needle thread can pass freely through between the
shuttle and the shuttle driver.
24th. In the arrangement of an additional segmental lip projecting
from the back of the shuttle into a groove in the shuttle race in such a
manner that the shuttle is prevented from bearing against the rim of the
shuttle race, its bearing being thrown on the edge of the groove which
is closer to the centre of motion, thereby diminishing the friction and
power required for driving the shuttle.
25th. In the combination of a smooth eccentric which operates the
needle lever, a shuttle which travels in a circular race, and an eye-pointed
needle in such a manner that each stitch is finished before the next stitch
is commenced.
26th. In the arrangement of shoulders on the circular rim in the
shuttle race on the side of the needle channel in such a manner that the
loop of the needle thread is prevented from being carried between the
back of the shuttle race.
27th. In the arrangement of an annular depression in the shuttle race 3
to take in the points of the noses, whereby the latter are enabled to catch

page_text: hold of the shuttle thread and impart to it the requisite tension for
finishing the stitch before the shuttle arrives in the position opposite the
needle.
28. In the arrangement of cast off hooks projecting from the shuttle
race and serving to disengage the shuttle thread from the noses of the
shuttle driver at the proper moment.
29th. In the arrangement of a radial depression in the shuttle race
in such a manner that the shuttle thread is free to move sideways out
of the way of the descending needle.
30th. In the arrangement of a protector surrounding the moveable
head of the clastic centre, so as to prevent the shuttle thread from
catching behind said head.
31st. In the arrangement of a hinged door on the shuttle driver
to facilitate the operation of introducing and removing the shuttle.
32nd. In the arrangement of a double cam on the shuttle driver
acting on the feed mecanism in such a manner that the requisite
feed motion is produced in whatever direction the shuttle driver
moves.
33rd. In the arrangement of an oscillating lever supporting the throat
plate in such a manner that the work is raised out of the rough surfaces
of the feed dog when said dog recedes, and depressed upon the feed dog
when the feed is to take place.
34th. In the arrangement of a self-adjusting cam in combination with
the oscillating lever and throat plate in such a manner that the rising
and falling motion of the throat plate takes place at the proper time in
whatever direction the driving shaft is turned.
35th. In the arrangement of a moveable block or shoe on the
oscillating lever and opposite to the moving cam in such a manner that
if onc portion of said shoc is worn out a fresh surface can be brought
opposite to the cam and a correct operation of the oscillating lever is
insured.
36. In the arrangement of a tapet arm on a sliding rod running
parallel to the main shaft in combination with the conical double
shouldered hub of the shuttle driver and with the feed dog in such a
manner that by sliding the rod of the tappet arm in or out the the feed
is adjusted in whatever direction the main shaft may revolve.
37th. In the arrangement of an arm oscillating on a pin situated in

page_text: line with or parallel to the main shaft and supporting the feed dog in
combination with a rising and falling cloth plate in such a manner that
by the oscillating motion of the arm which carries the feed dog the
required feed motion is produced in either direction, while by the
rising and falling motion of the cloth plate the work is thrown in or out
of contact with the rough surface of the feed dog.
38th. In the arrangement of a slotted hub projecting from the eccentric
which serves to impart motion to the needle cam in combination with
a stud projecting from the main shaft in such a manner that
said eccentric is capable of adjusting itself for sewing in either
direction.
39th. In the arrangement of a slotted hub projecting from the cam
which operates the take-up in combination with a stud or catch
secured to the hub of the eccentric of the needle arm in such a
manner that said cam is capable of adjusting itself for sewing in either
direction.
40th. In the arrangement of a brake in combination with the loose
self-adjusting cam and spring actuating the take-up in such a manner
that said cam is prevented from being changed in its position by the
action of the spring.
41st. In placing the shuttle race, the shuttle driver, and the feeder on
the line of the main shaft in such a manner that the adjustment of the
various parts in relation to each other and the construction of the
machine are materially facilitated.
42nd. In the arrangement of a finger projecting from the eccentric
rod operating the needle arm and acting on the take-up in such a manner
that the thread is released at the proper moment by a positive motion
imparted to the take-up in the required direction.
43rd. In the arrangement of a cam wheel in combination with the
presser foot and cloth plate in such a manner that a reciprocating
motion is imparted to the work and various stitches and seams can be
produced.
44th. In the arrangement of a pawl operated by the needle bar or
needle lever in combination with a cam wheel which governs the
embroidery attachment or the motion of the presser foot and throat
plate in such a manner that the motion of said cam wheel is produced in
a simple and effective way.

page_text: 45th. In the arrangement of a swivel plate under the presser foot in
combination with a guide rod in such a manner that said swivel plate is
kept parallel by the guide rod while the presser foot oscillates, and
thereby the required zig-zag motion is imparted to the work without an
additional oscillating motion.
46th. In connecting the throat plate with the presser foot, which
receives an oscillating motion by a cam of suitable shape, in such a
manner that by the action of said cam on the presser foot the throat
plate, and consequently the work placed on it, receives a reciprocating
motion in a direction transversely to the feed motion, and thereby seams
and stitches of various description can be produced.
47th. In the arrangement of a flange projecting downwards from the
throat plate and engaging with the feed dog in such a manner that said
feed dog is compelled to participate in the reciprocating motion of the
throat plate, and thereby the correct motion of the work is better
secured.
48th. In the arrangement of a lip projecting upwards from the
moveable throat plate and acting as a central edge gauge for two pieces
of leather or other material to be sewed together edge to edge in such a
manner that by said lip and moveable throat plate a zig-zag motion is
imparted to the two pieces of material, and the needle is caused to pass
first through one and then through the other piece, and a zig-zag edge
seam is produced whereby the two pieces of material are firmly united
edge to edge.
49th. In the arrangement of a guiding screw projecting from or
screwed in the presser foot in combination with the central edge gauge
in such a manner that said edge gauge is compelled to move with the
presser foot, and that its position can be regulated to conform to the
desired course of the seam.
50th. In the arrangement of a hinged spring lever provided with a set
screw which bears against a stationary lip and with a projection which
acts on the cam wheel in combination with the rod which transmits the
motion produced by the cam wheel to the presser foot in such a manner
that the amount of motion to be transmitted from the cam wheel to the
presser foot can be increased or diminished according to the nature of
the stitch to be produced.
51st. In the arrangement of a sliding toe in combination with the
pawl which engages with the ratchet teeth of the cam wheel in such a

page_text: manner that by the action of said toe on the pawl the amount of
motion imparted to the cam wheel at every stroke of the needle rod can
be regulated.
52nd. In the arrangement of a centre point in combination with a
reciprocating throat plate and cam wheel in such a manner that the
pattern controlled by the cam wheel can be sewed in a circle.
53rd. In the arrangement of an adjustable edge gauge in combination
with the reciprocating throat plate and cam wheel in such a manner that
one piece of cloth or other material can be sewed on another piece by a
semi-overhand stitch.
54th. In the arrangement of an embroidery attachment actuated by a
cam wheel which receives its motion from the needle bar or needle lever
in such a manner that said embroidery attachment can be readily
attached to the sewing machine or removed therefrom, and that it does
not interfere with the use of the sewing machine for ordinary purposes.
55th. In the arrangement of a bearing spring on the presser foot in
such a manner that when the presser foot rises said spring continues to
exert a slight pressure on the material to be sewed, and thereby said
material is prevented from getting displaced.
56th. In the arrangement of an arm and brace in combination with a
vertical shaft carrying the shuttle driver and with the cloth plate or
frame of the sewing mechanism in such a manner that said sewing
mechanism can be swivelled round the vertical shaft without disturbing
its motion.
57th. In the arrangement of an independent take-up operated directly
from a cam on the main shaft in combination with a double-pointed
shuitle in such a manner that the motion of the take-up takes place at
the proper moment in whichever direction the shuttle travels.
58th. In the arrangement of shoulders on the double-pointed shuttle
radiating from the centre of the shuttle race in such a manner that the
action of the shuttle driver on the shuttle has no tendency to force the
same out of its circular course or orbit.
59th. In the arrangement of a winding attachment in combination
with the elastic centre of the circular shuttle race in such a manner that
said winding attachment can be applied and operated with ease and
convenience,

page_text: 60th. In the arrangement of a loose cap in combination with the
elastic centre in such a manner that said cap is free to accommodate
itself to the inner surface of the shuttle race or of its top plate or
cover.
61st. In the arrangement of a hooked pin in the shuttle in com-
bination with a straight open pin therein in such a manner that the
shuttle thread is prevented from slipping off or coming in contact
with the spool in the shuttle.
62nd. In the arrangement of a single point on the feed bar in com-
bination with an adjustable centre point in such a manner that the
operation of sewing circular seams or fancy stitches can be effected
without wrinkling the work.
63rd. In the arrangement of an adjustable cam on the main cam in
combination with the feed bar in such a manner that by adjusting said
cam the feed motion can be set to correspond to the direction in which
the machine is turned.
64th. In the arrangement of a recess in the presser foot in com-
bination with an adjustable spring and with a shoulder in such a
manner that by said spring the braid is kept in close contact with the
shoulder, and a braid can be sewn down close to the edge of the work in
straight, angular, or curved lines.
The various improvements above set forth are illustrated in the
accompanying Drawings, in which the different sewing machines are
shown, one with a reciprocating shuttle, one with a shuttle travelling in
a circular race situated in a vertical plane, and one with a shuttle
travelling in a circular race situated in a horizontal plane.
The first named is shown in the various Figures contained on Sheets
I. and II., in which Fig. 1 represents a longitudinal vertical section, the
line x, x, Fig. 2, indicating the plane of section; Fig. 2 is a transverse
vertical section of the same, the plane of section being indicated by the
line y, y, Fig. 1; Fig. 3 is an inverted plan of the same; Fig. 4 is a
transverse section of the take-up and tension device, the line 2, 2, Fig. 1,
indicating the plane of section. The remaining Figures contained on
these two Sheets are details which will be referred to as the description
progresses.
Similan lett

page_text: a depression across it to form a shuttle race; B is the needle arm or
gooseneck, in which the needle lever C is supported adjustably in the
following manner :-The axis on which said needle lever C vibrates rests
at one end on a bearing provided for it in the side of said arm B, and on
its other end in the vertical part of a bearing formed by a right angled
piece D, whose horizontal part rests and slides in ways formed for it on
the bottom of the horizontal portion of said arm, and is fixed in any
position by a set screw. Each end of the said axis can be oiled through
holes provided for that purpose in the arm B and in the top of the
adjustable bearing. The needle lever derives its motions from the main
shaft E through an eccentric on said shaft, which is embraced by a
strap formed at the lower end of the upright connecting rod F, whose
upper end is connected to the needle lever C by means of a round pin G,
which is hinged to the top of the rod by a horizontal pin I and extends
from the rod through the solid end of the needle lever into the loop H,
which is formed in the said needle lever behind its axis. The end of the
pin projects into the loop far enough to receive a pin which secures it to
the said lever. By this arrangement and construction I form a joint
which allows an up and down motion of the connecting rod and needle
lever, and also an oscillating motion of the connecting rod on the pin G
imparted to it by the eccentric . The needle lever C is connected to
the needle slide M by a jaw J, which embraces the end on an arm K that
projects inwardly from the needle slide. The arm K is not fastened
rigidly in said jaw, but merely projects therein, so that in the vibrations
of the needle lever the arm will be alternately raised and lowered. The
arm K of the needle slide is held up against the top of the jaw J by a
spring L fastened to the under side of the needle lever to prevent play of
the needle slide, when, in its reciprocations, its motion is changed from a
downward to an upward direction. By this means the needle slide
arm K is always held up against that part of the jaw which drives the
needle downwards, and lost motion from wear of the jaw or plate is
obviated, and the needle is prevented from becoming stationary at the end
of its reciprocations. By the combined action of the jaw and arm the
tubular needle slide is also prevented from turning on its guide rod. The
spring L is adjusted to increase or decrease its tension by an adjusting
screw N, and if desired it may be placed above the arm C instead of
below it. The needle slide M is hollow, being left open above to allow it
to slide up and down upon a hollow stationary guide O which it embraces,
as shown in the Drawing. The lower end of the slide is made solid and

page_text: is so formed as to hold the needle by means of a clamp and set screw.
The presser slide P is also hollow, having its bottom closed and its top
left open to allow it to surround and slide upon a hollow stationary guide
rod Q. The slide P is prevented from falling off its guide rod by means
of a pin extending from said rod through a vertical slot in the slide.
Said pin and slot are not shown in the Drawing, nor is the lever shown
which moves the slide upwards to raise the presser foot off the feed
wheel, the said pin and slot and lever being of the ordinary construction.
The presser slide is held down by means of a spring coiled upon the
guide rod Q between the top of the slide and a collar R which is adjusted
on the rod by screwing it up or down thereon. The object of making
the needle slide and the presser slide hollow or tubular and of placing
them on stationary guides is to enable any one to lubricate the said.
slides in such a manner as to prevent oil dripping therefrom upon the table
and injuring the material that is being sewed, the oil in excess being
retained in the bottoms of the hollow slides. The guide rods O, Q, are
made hollow throughout to allow the air to pass in and out of the slides,
during their descent and ascent. on the guide rods. Both the said guide
rods are supported from the end of the arm B in. tapering holes which
decrease in diameter as they descend, the upper portion of said rod
being made tapering from the tops downward for a little distance so as
to fit the tapering holes. The object of this arrangement is to allow said
rods to be raised easily out of the holes of arm. B. when it is desired to
remove them for repairs. The rods, O, Q, are held down in the arm
by a single screw S, which is screwed down into the arm at a point
intermediate of the rods, its head being made of such a size as to partially
overlap the tops of the rods, as is shown in Fig. 2, the tops of the rods,.
at the places where the screw head clamps them, being cut down to
allow the screw head to. come flush with the tops of the rods.. An
ornamental appearance may be given to the tops of the rods by balls,
see T, with short stems which pass into the rods from above, the stems
of the balls being fitted in loosely to allow a free circulation of air to
and from the rods, and at the same time prevent the oil from being.
driven out above. Upon the needle side of the end of arm B is a
grooved pulley or wheel U, made in this example of wood, over which
the needle thread goes on its way to the needle. The groove is deep
enough to insure that the thread shall not be accidentally removed in
the operation of sewing. As the thread is drawn along in forming the
stitches the pulley is rotated at the same speed by the pressure of the thread

page_text: thereon; this device is substituted instead of a stationary guide, over
which the thread is usually passed, and one of its advantages is to lessen
the friction of the thread at the place where its course is changed from a
horizontal to a vertical direction. The spool spindle is mounted on the
arm B, behind the guiding wheel U and forward of the tension device;
upon said spool spindle is placed a hollow spindle, whose lower end is
surrounded by a solid head Z, which rests upon a cushion of cloth or
felt, or other suitable material. From the upper surface of head Z
near its rim rises a sharp pin, which penetrates the flange of the spool
far enough to attach it thereto, and prevents it from turning inde-
pendently of the head. The diameter of the hollow spindle is of such
a size that it will fit the pin which rises from the arm B, and the spool
being retained by the sharp pin rising from the head Z is not allowed
to wabble, no matter what its borc may be, and thereby the unwinding
of the thread is rendered regular. Instead of the sharp pin rising
from the head other means for securing the spool might be used, such
as sharp edged feathers, and if desired the head Z may be placed on
top of the spool instead of below. The thread is taken from the spool
backwards towards the tension spindle X which is mounted in a
horizontal position on arm B. Said spindle has two collars, one on its
outer end to enable the spindle to be turned for adjusting the tension
of the needle thread, and the other, which is marked y, and is not far
removed from the outer end, to enable the spindle to be clamped against
the take-up W which rises from a hollow spindle that is mounted in a
horizontal bearing on arm B. The said hollow spindle has a shoulder
that comes against the end of the bearing, and it is held against it by
means of a nut and washer on the end of the tension spindle, which
latter extends through the hollow spindle and beyond the bearing far
enough to receive said nut and washer. An elastic cushion is interposed
between the collar y and the take-up, and by turning the holding nut
the cushion is compressed more or less, so as to compel the tension
spindle to move with the take-up. The thread is taken through the
outer end of the tension spindle past its outer collar, where it emerges
to the surface of the spindle, and is taken around it one or more times
as may be desired to produce the necessary tension, and is thence carried
through a hole in the lower part of the take-up and flat spring a,
which holds the thread fast against the take-up during those intervals
when no force is applied to draw the thread from the spool (see Fig. 4.)
By connecting the tension spindle and the take-up, so that they move

page_text: together, and by taking the thread directly from the tension device to
and through a hole in the take-up, I am enabled to keep the thread in
such a position that the tension will not be varied during the vibrations
of the take-up by being partly unwound from the tension spindle when
the take-up is moved backwards. The take-up is vibrated directly
from the main shaft E in the following manner:-e is a horizontal
arm which extends from the centre of motion to the take-up in a
direction to bring it over the upper end of a rod d which is held in
guides and rests on a hinged arm c, whose free end extends over a
cam 6 placed on the main shaft E; f is a spring which constantly
draws the arm of the take-up down upon the rod d, and restores.
the take-up to its original position after each vibration caused
by the cam, the rod d being also thereby held down upon the arm c
which rests directly on the face of said arm. This cam is so shaped
that the thread is held extended until the point of the needle
strikes the material to be sewed. The main shaft is provided with
a belt pulley, which consists of a solid core of metal whose diameter
is reduced between its ends to form a receptacle for a cushion of
rubber or other elastic material, as is clearly shown in Fig. 1, while
ribs in any convenient number extend across the sunken space from
rim to rim, as is shown in Fig. 5. The elastic cushion is flush with the
periphery of the rims, and both are wrapped about with a covering of
leather, which is secured in place by metallic bands at the ends of the
pulley over the solid rims. The feed motion is derived from a cam &
on the main shaft E through a pendant arm j, which hangs down beside
the shaft from the table A. The face of the arm is kept against the
cam constantly by a spring, as shown in Fig. 1. The back of the arm
has an elastic cushion of rubber or other suitable material, which is held
to the arm by being compressed between flanges which rise from the
sides of the arm, and are bent over towards each other, so as to bite the
sides of the cushion. When the arm is pushed outwards by the cam it
strikes the end of a horizontal rod k which is suspended in bearings
formed on the under side of table A, and extends through a nut n to the
side of the table A, the said rod k having a screw thread formed on it
where it works through the nut, and its end at the side of the table
having a thumb piece which enables one to turn it. The nut nis
separated from the adjacent bearing by an elastic collar m; said nut has
two radial arms p, p, which extend from opposite sides of the nut, and
form in this example an obtuse angle with each other towards the feed

page_text: wheel; that one of said arms which extends upwards towards the
table A is forked, and embraces a pin on the end of the reversing
lever 7, from which rises a button head which moves in a slots in the
table, and extends through it, so that one can move said lever r from
the top of the table when it is desired to reverse the direction of the
feed. The direction of the feed depends upon the position of the said
arms p of nut n, which arms are held by the reversing lever in such a
position that one or the other of the said arms will be beneath one of
the toes of the rock shaft u, so that the outward movement of the rod k
will be transmitted to the rock shaft, which will be rocked to the right
or left according to the position given to nutn, which can be turned
so that neither of its arms will act on the rock shaft through the
toes t, t, beneath one or the other of which the arms p, p, are brought
by the reversing lever in manner aforesaid. The rock shaft u extends
in suitable bearings beneath the table towards the forward end of the
machine, and has fast on its forward end a crank V, which is forked to
receive the pointed end of a lever, which is pivoted near its other end
to the part 2 of the friction clutch which drives the feed wheel . The
said lever wo is restored to its former position after every vibration which
is given to it from the rock shaft by means of a spring arm & which
projects from the front side of the frame of the machine, and penetrates
the lever not far from the end of the crank . The feed whcel z turns
upon a hollow axis 8 which extends from the bearing 9 which supports
it to the front of the machine, outside of which it is turned upwards, as
shown in Fig. 1, to enable the operator to pour in oil wherewith to
lubricate the feed wheel, the bore of the axis towards its inner end
being turned and carried through one side at a point nearly opposite the
middle of the hub of the feed wheel. The axis goes through an elongated
vertical slot 10 cut through the lower end of the bearing 9, so that the
feed wheel can be adjusted vertically, and it is held to the bearing by a
washer and nut in combination with the clastic box next described.
The hub of the feed wheel on its forward end Las a flange 18, by means
of which the feed wheel is secured to the axle 8 by the clastic box com-
posed of the following devices:-A broad plate 11 is placed on the axis 8,
and from the bottom of this plate extends a right-angled flange, whose
edge has projecting corners, between which is held the lower end of a
spring plate 12, which is fastened to the plate 11 by a screw bolt 13.
The spring plate extends upwards about as high as the plate 11, and
the hub of the feed wheel goes through it. The said spring plate is

page_text: separated from the flange 18 of the hub of the feed wheel by a rubber
packing ring 16, and the said flange is separated from the plate 11 by
a packing 14 of leather. By many of these devices the said flange is
held between elastic surfaces, and the feed wheel consequently has its
support in clastic bearing, although its axis is held to the bearing 9 in a
rigid and unyielding manner. The rear face of the feed wheel has a
circular depression with square sides, the hub of the wheel being made
to project far enough to permit the feed clutch, herein-after described, to
be held thereon, so that it can operate within the depression of the
wheel. The feed clutch is composed of the clutches or pieces 2, 3, whereof
the former is contained in said depression next to the face of the wheel,
and the latter is mounted on the former and slides thereon, being
guided between the rims of the sides of the piece. Both picces have
wide elongated central slots to enable them to be placed over the hub
of the wheel, and the upper piece 3 has guide arms which extend
inwards on the edge of its slot, so as to form guides for the piece 2 and
preserve parallelism in the movements of the two pieces on each other.
The piece 2 is drawn towards the other and away from the inner cir-
cumference of the wheel by a spring 4, and thereby the clutch is
made to release the feed wheel. The left-hand end of piece 2, observing
Fig. 2, is curved to fit the said inner circumference, and the piece 3 has
segments which fit within the wheel on the opposite side. The said
pieces are held upon the hub by means of a washer and key, said
washer having a longitudinal locking bar 17 on its right-liand
edge which spans the slot of piece 3 and fits under shoulders
formed on the top of piece 3, so that the piece or clutch 3 is locked
to the hub, and has no longitudinal motion allowed to it. The lever w
has on its right-hand end (Fig. 2) two cams 1, 1, which are
kept in contact with the left-hand end of piece or clutch 3 by
the force of spring 4. The piece or clutch 3 is prolonged beyond
the rim of the feed wheel, and has pivoted to the prolongation two
independent fingers 5, 5, which compose yielding jaws which are drawn
constantly towards each other by a spring 6. The jaws embrace a
stop 7, which is made of leather or other suitable material that has a
soft surface, so that the contact of the jaws therewith will not produce
noise. The stop 7 is mounted upon a frame which is pivoted by its
forward end to the side of the table of the machine, so that the said
frame can be moved up or down toward or away from the under side of

page_text: the table for the purpose of varying the length of the stitches without
changing the oscillations or motions of the rock shaft. The stop 7 is
moved up or toward the table by means of a screw 20, seen in dotted
outline in Fig. 2, said screw being surrounded by a rubber tube 19,
which when the screw is drawn outwards to move the stop toward the
table is compressed against the under side of the table, and when the
screw is turned down the elasticity of the rubber causes the stop to
be moved downwards again to its former position, or as far in that
direction as the release of the rubber by the screw permits. When the
stop 7 is in a line with the centre of the jaws, or in other words, in a
line with the centre of the feed wheel, the length of the stitches is the
same in whichever direction the feed wheel is turned; but when the
stop is at one side of the centre the stitches will be longer in one
direction than in the opposite direction, so that if the feed is reversed
while the stop is at one side of the centre there will be a corresponding
change in the length of stitches, either longer or shorter, according to
the position of the stop at one side or the other of said contre. The
shuttle S' is driven by a crank from a disk on the end of the main
shaft.
The shuttle carrier 21 is seen in several Figures of the Drawing, but
most clearly in Figures 9, 15, & 16. The heel of the shuttle is over-
lapped by a plate 22, which holds the shuttle down, so that the same
is prevented from being lifted up so as to clamp the loop of the needle
thread between its top and the inner surface of the cover of the shuttle
race. The necessity for the overlapping plate arises from the peculiar
movements of the needle, which has only two simple motions, to wit,
one downward and one upward, there being no pause in the course of
its upward motion nor a pause followed by a slight downward movement
in order to give slack to the thread while the shuttle is going through
its loop as in ordinary machines, and consequently to prevent the
possibility of the rising of the shuttle from the pull of the needle
thread while the needle is rising, at which time the needle thread loop
surrounds the shuttle. I provide the said overlapping plate 22, which
acts in combination with the ordinary overlapping plate, extending over
the point of the shuttle to prevent the shuttle from being raised from
its place and thrown against the cover of the race. The needle has no
interruption or pause, neither has it a pause or retrograde movement
combined during its ascent, but its movements are a simple and direct

page_text: reciprocation derived from a plain eccentric on the main shaft; it follows
that no addition is made to the amount of slack of the needle thread,
as is the case in ordinary sewing machines, from or by any interruption of
the ascending movement of the needle, and in order therefore to prevent
any undue strain on the needle thread from the passage of the shuttle
through the needle thread loop during the simultaneous ascent of the
needle I reduce the back surface of the shuttle so as to make the shuttle
narrow for the first half of its length, forming a depression 25, and
from thence increase its width until it falls off again towards its heel,
as shown most clearly in Figures 9, 15, & 16. While the forward
narrow portion of the shuttle is going through the loop of the needle
thread the needle is rising, and at the time said loop encircles the
shuttle at about the point 25 the needle will have risen far enough to
bring its eye above the material, so that the pull and strain thereafter
made on the needle thread by the passage through its loop of the
enlarged half of the shuttle will be downwards and in a line with the
needle, and not at right angles thereto as in ordinary shuttle sewing
machines, and no additional thread will be required in enlarging the
loop for the shuttle until the needle has left the material. This pro-
vision is of great importance in sewing leather where the thread is
closely pressed between the needle and the sides of the hole, and the
shuttle is unable to draw out enough thread to form a loop, and there-
fore liable to cause the thread to snap apart. The shuttle has on its
side next the shuttle race a hooked guiding edge 27, seen in Fig. 10,
extending nearly its whole length, which engages a reverse guiding
flange 28 formed on the side of the shuttle race a suitable distance,
equal at least to the shuttle's travel. One object of these guiding flanges
is to retain the needle thread loop in its proper place, and prevent it
from being caught between the shuttle and the race. Another object
of these devices is to prevent irregularity in the motion of the shuttle
and keep it close to the side of the race so as to insure its taking the
loop of the needle. Besides these advantages derived from the said
guiding flanges there is another advantage; I am enabled to use a
shorter needle or to decrease the distance it travels in comparison with
ordinary sewing machines. This advantage is owing to the fact that
the point of the shuttle is elevated, the thread being held by the flange
28 in such a position that it is caught by the elevated point, in con-
sequence whereof the needle is not required to descend any further than
to bring its eye to the shoulder formed by the edge of said flange. As

page_text: an additional support to keep the shuttle up to the side of the race I
provide an upright plate 26, which is formed by turning up a portion
of the shuttle carriage near its forward end, as shown in Fig. 9. The
reverse flange 28. on the side of the race is cut away, as seen in
Fig. 2, to form a curved recess or slot 32, which. receives into itself that
portion of the needle thread loop which is on the inside of the shuttle,
and prevents the loop from tipping over or kinking, and causes. the loop
to remain open to allow the shuttle to enter it. The forward end of said
recess or slot operates as a hook, which retains or holds the inner side of
the loop while the shuttle is passing through it, and so aids in pre-
venting the loop from being caught between the shuttle and race.
In order to prevent the shuttle thread from becoming so placed' that the
needle will descend behind it and produce a knot I place on the top of
the shuttle a flat tongue 24, which extends the whole length of the
thread opening made in the top of the shuttle, and laps over the inner
edge of the opening sufficiently close to hold the thread by friction, and
carry it back when the shuttle moves backward so that it will be behind
the needle when it makes its next descent. Instead of constructing the
shuttle with the flat tongue 24, as shown in Fig. 9, I have also used a
shuttle, such as shown in Figures 15 & 16, where the said shuttle is
shown in different positions in its race. This shuttle is provided with a
shoulder 41 and also with a flange 42, which rises from the body of the
shuttle and projects over the eye thereof towards. its breast, said eye
being made in the top or back of the shuttle, as shown. The shuttle is
propelled in its race by a shuttle driver in the usual manner, and the
needle descends through the throat 43. When the shuttle has arrived
at the forward end of its stroke, as shown in Fig. 15, the shuttle thread
extends from the eye to the throat under the flange 42, and behind the
shoulder 41, as indicated by dotted lines. When the shuttle retreats the
slack of the shuttle thread is carried back by the shoulder 41, and said
thread is retained under the flange 42, so that it is prevented from
forming a loop or from assuming such a position that the needle in its
descent will be liable to become entangled therewith, and thereby the
formation of knots is effectually prevented. When the shuttle advances
to the position shown in Fig. 16 the shuttle thread is still retained under
the flange, and it is carried through the loop of the needle thread
without fail. It must be remarked that either the shoulder or the flange
can be dispensed with, but by using both combined the desired effect is
produced with more certainty than by using either of them alone. This

page_text: improvement is also applicable to shuttles of the ordinary form or shape.
The shuttle is left open on its under side and is provided with two or
more tension rods, which extend from the pointed ends towards the spool,
their hinder ends being free, disconnected from each other and from the
rest of the shuttle. The shuttle thread is taken from the spool through
hole 29, thence down again into the interior of the shuttle through
hole 30, thence around one or both of the tension rods, thence through
the hole 31, thence under the tongue 24. By reason of the disconnected
ends of said rods I am enabled to pass the thread over them after it has
been threaded through the several holes of the shuttle by picking it up
and passing it over their free ends, and it is not at any time necessary
for the thread to be withdrawn from any of the holes in order to put it
on one or both of said rods. In addition I am enabled by the use of
two free rods to vary and adjust the tension in a nice and delicate
manner, by turns varying from one quarter to three quarters of the
complete circumference of said rods respectively. The needle is shown
detached in Fig. 12. It is made out of sheet steel by cutting it out of
the sheet by means of a die cutter of proper form. After the needle
and its shank have been cut to the proper outline the grooves on the
front and back which intersect the eye are formed by proper dies. The
corners of the needle are rounded off by filing or grinding. The presser
foot, seen detached in Fig. 7, and also seen in Fig. 8, is slotted at its heel
in the manner shown, so that it can be inserted between the face of the
screw 29 and the bottom of the presser rod, the said bottom being cut
away so as to leave a rib across it, which enters the said slot. The set
screw which fastens the presser foot goes up through said slot, and
through the rib into the body of the rod. By this construction I am
enabled to remove and replace the presser foot without removing the
screw. The presser foot has a thread guide & formed upon it in a line
with the needle, as shown in Fig. 7. This thread guide in this example
consists of a tapering groove, whose narrow end is towards the needle.
Instead of attaching this thread guide to the presser foot it may be
secured to any other part of the sewing machine. In using it the
needle сус is brought opposite to the groove, when the needle is easily
threaded. One of the advantages of this device consists in insuring
that the needle will always be threaded from the proper side. The
throat piece 33 extends across the race at the place of the descent of the
needle, and is perforated to allow of the passage of the needle through
it. That part of the throat piece which overlaps the edge of the race

page_text: has a downward projection 35, seen in Fig. 13, which is a perspective
view of the throat piece detached, which projection fits in a recess 34
made on the verge of the race, see Fig. 2. This side of the projection
which is towards the race forms a shoulder, which prevents fine threads
from catching in the joint of the throat piece and facilitates the sliding
of the thread past the joint, and by keeping the shuttle thread off from
the joint prevents it from curling or bending inward so as to get forward
of the needle. As projection 35 is a continuation of the throat piece it
follows that there is no joint presented at that point, but the throat
piece and projection form an unbroken face. The axis of the feed wheel
is square where it is held in the slot of the bearing q so that it cannot
turn, by which arrangement its open end is always kept upwards. The
hub of the feed wheel is hollow to receive the axis, but its inner end is
closed so as to prevent oil from dripping upon the wheel.
On the Sheets III., IV., V., & VI. I have represented a sewing machine
constructed according to my Invention and provided with a shuttle
which travels in a circular shuttle race situated in a vertical planc, and
I have also shown my various attachments for producing different scams
and fancy stitches. In these Sheets, Fig. 1 represents a longitudinal
vertical section; Fig. 2 is an inverted plan; Fig. 3, a transverse section;
Fig. 4, a sectional side clevation of the embroidery attachment; Fig. 5,
a plan or top view thercof; Fig. 6, a horizontal section of the same;
Fig. 7, a sectional side elevation of the pattern wheel attachment by the
aid of which various different stitches and ornamental seams are pro-
duced; Fig. 8, a top view thereof; Fig. 9, a horizontal section of the
same; Fig. 10, a longitudinal section of the parts forming the connec-
tion between the pattern wheel attachment and the throat plate;
Fig. 11, a plan or top view of the same; Fig. 12, a transverse section
of the same; Fig. 13 is a plan or top view of the central edge gauge
used in joining two pieces of material at their ends or edges; Fig. 14, a
modification thereof; Fig. 15, a similar view of the attachment for
making the zig-zag overhand stitch; Fig. 16, a front view, and Fig. 17 a
transverse section of the spring presser foot; Figures 18, 19, & 20,
front views of the cams and diagrams of the stitches produced thereby;
Fig. 21, a face view of the shuttle race; Fig. 22, a rear view of the
shuttle driver; Fig. 23, a plan of the shuttle; and Fig. 24, a transverse
section of the same. Similar letters indicate corresponding parts.
The letter A represents the table or cloth plate, from one end of which

page_text: rises the gooseneck B, the end of which forms sockets to receive the
guide rods D, C, on one of which slides the tubular supporting bar E of
the presser foot F, while the other forms the guide for the tubular needle
rod G, as shown more particularly in Figures 4 and 7 of the Drawing.
The needle rod G is closed at its bottom end, and it terminates in a flat
shank a, which fits loosely into a cage b which is provided with a
clamping screw c, see Fig. 1, so that by slipping the flat shank of the
needle into the cage b, and turning the screw c, said needle can be
firmly clamped to the end of the needle bar, and by unscrewing said
screw the needle can be removed, and that by said cage the needle is
held firmly in position against a lateral pressure as well as against an
up-and-down pressure. The supporting bar E of the pressure foot G is
also closed at its bottom end, and it is provided with a curved neck d,
best seen in Fig. 1, to which the presser foot is attached by a set screw
or clamping screw e. By means of this neck the presser foot is brought
in such a position that room is left for the introduction of one or more
fingers of the hand under the supporting bar of the presser foot, and
thereby the manipulation of the work during the process of sewing is
materially facilitated. The shuttle S which is used in this machine is
crescent-shaped, as shown in Figures 3 & 23. It is provided with an
eyef in the centre between its two points or horns, and this cye projects
above the back of the shuttle, see Fig. 24, so that the shuttle thread in
passing from this eye to the throat plate does not bear closely against
the back of the shuttle, but an interspace is left to allow the cast off
hooks to catch the thread, as will be presently explained. The shuttle
is provided with a raised rim g on its back to engage with a groove h,
sce Fig. 1, of the shuttle race R, so that the weight of the shuttle while
said shuttle passes through the upper half of its race does not bear down
on the shuttle driver, and thereby the operation of driving the shuttle
is facilitated. From the back of the shuttle projects also an additional
segmental lip i, see Figures 1 & 3, which engages with a groove j, sce
Fig. 1, in the shuttle race, so that the shuttle while travelling round in
its race does not bear against the circumferential rim or flange of the
race, but is supported by the lip i at a point as close as possible to the
centre of the race, and thereby the friction created by said shuttle and
the power required for propelling the same in its race are reduced. In
the rim are two depressions k, k, see Fig. 3, near to the points of the
shuttle, and at such points and in such position that the shuttle while
passing through the loop of the needle thread will not produce any

page_text: injurious friction on the shuttle thread, for just after the point of the
shuttle has caught the loop of the needle thread said loop is carried
along in the shuttle race until it strikes one of the shoulders 1, 1, see
Fig. 21, and if the depressions k, k, are not in the shuttle the needle
thread while being carried from the needle path sideways to said
shoulder would be caused to roll by the friction of the shuttle against
its race, and by this rolling motion the thread would be untwisted and
its tenacity would be injured, but by making the depressions in the
shuttle the needle thread is relieved from the rolling motion, and as soon
as said thread strikes the shoulder it is prevented from being carried
any further by the shuttle, and consequently no rolling motion can be
imparted to it. The shuttle driver H is provided with two projec-
tions m, m, see Fig. 3, which bear on shoulders o, o, of the shuttle, see
Fig. 23, and these shoulders are on a level with the middle line of the
height of the spool, so that the action of the shuttle driver will produce
no tendency to force the shuttle back against the shuttle race, whereby an
unnecessary friction would be produced. From the shuttle driver project
also two noses p, p, and the points of these noses project into the
circular groove j in the shuttle race, and they serve to impart to the
shuttle thread the required tension for finishing the stitch before the
shuttle has reached the position opposite the needle and before the
needle has again descended far enough to pass into the work, the action
of said noses on the shuttle thread taking place just before the needle
thread is drawn up by the take-up. By this arrangement the use of a
smooth eccentric for imparting motion to the needle is rendered feasible,
otherwise the motions of the needle and double-pointed shuttle could
not be made to harmonize except by means of cams in the usual manner.
After the shuttle thread has been carried far enough by the noses it is
thrown off therefrom by the cast off hooks r, r, which project from the
shuttle race, see Figures 1 & 21, and it is then caught by the elastic
centre s, and retained in the depression t in the shuttle race, being
moved by the feed motion far enough to one side of the needle path to
be out of the way of the descending needle. The radial depression
t in the shuttle is seen in Fig. 21, and the elastic centre in
Figures 1 & 3. This clastic centre consists in a centre pin inserted
loosely into a socket in the centre of the shuttle driver, and it is
provided with a loose head which is forced out against the shuttle race
by the action of a spring bearing on the inner end of the centre pin, see
Fig. 1, so that said head adapts itself readily to the face of the shuttle

page_text: race and remains stationary while the shuttle driver revolves. Said
clastic centre, serves to retain the shuttle thread in its lateral position.
out of the way of the descending needle, and it also prevents the shuttle
thread from forming a loop, which would interfere with the direct
operation of the shuttle. To prevent the shuttle thread from catching
behind the moveable head of the elastic centre said centre is surrounded
by a protector u, the edge of which is champered off, so that the shuttle
thread on coming in contact with said projector glides off and passes
in between the head of the elastic centre and the shuttle race.
The shuttle driver is provided with a hinged door v, which is locked by
a spring catch w, best seen in Fig. 22. By pressing back the spring
catch this door is released, so that it can be turned back and the shuttle
can be introduced or removed without difficulty. The shuttle driver is
mounted on the end of the main shaft I, and its hub is tapering and
forms a double-acting cam x, see Fig. 22, which serves to actuate the
feed motion in whatever direction the main shaft may be turned. The
work while being sewed is supported by the throat plate y, which rests
on the end of a lever z, see Figures 5, 1, & 2, to which an oscillating
motion is imparted by the action of a cam a', mounted on the main
shaft. By these means a rising and falling motion is imparted to the
throat plate, and the work is alternately lifted out of contact with the
rough surface of the feed dog and then again brought in contact with
said rough surface, so that the feed dog will act on the work only in one
direction. The cam a' which imparts to the lever z the required motion
is mounted loosely on the shaft I, and it is provided with a slot b' to
receive a stop c¹ which is secured in the shaft, so that the cam is
allowed to turn on the shaft until one or the other of the ends of the
slot strikes the stop c. By this arrangement the cam is rendered
self-adjusting, so that the throat plate is raised and lowered at the proper
intervals in whatever direction the main shaft I is turned. The cam a
acts on a shoe or block d', which is attached to the under surface of the
lever z opposite the cam a', and this block is so arranged that it can
be readily shifted, so that if it is worn out in one place a fresh surface
can be brought opposite the cam, and the correct position of the throat
plate is not interfered with. The feed dog e¹ is attached to a lever or
arm f¹ which oscillates on a pin g', and to which the required oscillating
motion is imparted by the combined action of a spring h', see Fig. 2,
and of a tappet arm . This tappet arm is mounted on the end of a
rod that has its bearings in lugs or brackets projecting from the
с

page_text: under surface of the cloth plate A, being so arranged that it is parallel
to the main shaft, and that it can be moved in its bearings in the
direction parallel to the main shaft by means of a button ', which
projects above the cloth plate and serves to regulate the length of the
stitches, as will be presently explained. One end of the tappet arm i¹
straddles a pin projecting from the lever f¹ which supports the feed dog,
and its other end bears against the cam a formed by the hub of the shuttle
driver, and as the shuttle driver. revolves said cam imparts an oscillating
motion to the tappet arm and through it to the lever f¹ which carries
the feed dog. The amount of motion imparted to the feed dog depends
If said
upon the position of the tappet arm in relation to the cam x.
tappet arm stands opposite the thick part of the cam the feed motion
is large and the stitches produced are long, but if the tappet arm is
moved towards the thin end of the cam the feed motion is decreased
and the length of the stitches diminished. The pin g' which forms the
bearing for the feed dog lever f' also supports the shuttle race, and it
is situated in line with the main shaft I, so that the holes which form
the bearings for said shaft and for the pin can be bored out at one
operation and without changing the position of the cloth plate in relation
to the drill, and thereby the construction of the machine and the
adjustment of the various parts in relation to each other arc materially
facilitated. The motion of the needle bar is produced by the action of
a plain eccentric 1, which is mounted on the main shaft I, and connects
by a rod m and lever n' with the needle bar. The use of this plain
eccentric for operating the needle bar in place of the cam generally
used has obvious advantages, since such eccentric is easier made and
driven with less power. The eccentric is placed loosely on the shaft I,
and it is provided with a long hub o' furnished with a segmental slot p
to receive the stop q', which is firmly secured to the shaft I. By this
arrangement said eccentric is allowed to turn on its shaft as far as the
slot p and the stop q¹ will permit, and it is enabled to adjust itself
automatically on the shaft according to the direction in which said shaft
is turned. On the hub of the eccentric is mounted the cam which
. controls the motion of the take-up s¹. This cam is also provided with
a slotted hub u', and a stop t¹ secured to the eccentric engages with
the slot in the hub u', and allows said cam to adjust itself automatically
according to the direction in which the main shaft is turned. The
cam acts on a cage v¹, see Fig. 1, which is held in contact with said
cam by a spring w', and which connects with the take-up s¹ by means

page_text: of a rod a¹. To prevent said cam from being turned spontaneously by
the action of the spring to a brake y¹ is applied, which produces suffi-
cient friction to retain said cam against the action of its spring, but
allows to adjust itself freely according to the direction in which the
main shaft revolves. The take-up consists of an elbow lever, and the
rod passes loosely through its horizontal arm, said rod being provided
with a rod or stop, so that it acts on the take-up in going down, but
does not impart to the same any motion in going up. A finger z' which
is attached to the rod connecting the eccentric with the needle lever
serves to restore the take-up to the position which the same occupies in
Fig. 1, and by these means a positive motion is imparted to said take-up
in either direction, and its operation is not made dependent on the
action of springs, which subject the thread to an unnecessary tension.
The finger z¹ is adjustable on the eccentric rod, so that it can be made
to act on the take-up at the proper moment:
I will now proceed to describe the various attachments for producing
seams and stitches of different kind. For this purpose I use cam wheels
of various forms, such, for instance, as shown in Figures 4, 7, 18, 19, &
20. The cam wheel K, Fig. 4, serves to produce the embroidery stitch;
it is mounted on a shaft a², which has its bearing in a bracket 6' that is
secured to the end of the gooseneck B by a screw c. An intermittent
revolving motion is imparted to said cam wheel by means of a pawl d³,
which is mounted on the upper end of a rod e² that extends down into
the hollow needle rod G, as shown in Fig. 4, being subjected to the
action of a spring f, which keeps its bottom end in contact with the
bottom of the hollow needle rod; said pawl acts on ratchet teeth g'
cut into the circumference of the cam wheel, and it is hinged to the
rod e³, so that it can be conveniently thrown in or out of gear with said
ratchet teeth. As the needle bar rises and falls the pawl acts on the
ratchet teeth and imparts to the cam wheel the intermittent rotary
motion. Instead of operating said rod e from the needle bar it may be
operated from the needle lever, as indicated in Fig. 1. On the sides of
the cam wheel are two rods b, the upper ends of which are bent, as shown
in Figures 4 & 5, and held in contact with the sides of the cam wheel
by springs . The rods have their bearings in lugs secured to the
bracket 6, and their lever ends are bent in oblique directions towards
the needle, and they are provided with eyes k², see Fig. 4, to receive the
embroidery threads, which are taken from spools mounted on pins
which rise from the bracket . On the sides of the cam wheel K. are

page_text: four (more or less) projections or cams, which act on the rods and
impart to the same an oscillating motion, whereby their lower oblique
ends are caused to assume a vibrating motion, and the threads passing
through the eyes are braided together in front of the needle n. By
these means an embroidery stitch is produced, as shown in Fig. 6, which
is sewed down upon the work by the action of the ordinary sewing
mechanism. If the embroidery attachment is not required the screw c
is unscrewed, and the whole attachment can be taken off, leaving the
sewing mechanism undisturbed.
In Figures 7 to 15 inclusive I have shown my cam wheel attachment
for producing various fancy stitches, and also what I term a zig-zag edge
This attach-
seam, an overhand stitch, and a semi-overhand stitch.
ment consists of a cam wheel L, which is mounted on a pin that has
its bearings in a bracket m², which is secured to the end of the goose-
neck B by a screw n². The cam wheel is provided with ratchet teeth o
on its circumference, and a pawl på engages with these ratchet teeth and
imparts to the cam wheel the desired intermittent rotary motion.
The pawl p is hinged to the upper end of a rod q2 which extends down
through the hollow guide rod D and tubular needle rod G, and bears on
the bottom of said needle rod, being depressed by the action of a
spring. The amount of motion imparted by the pawl p² to the cam
wheel can be regulated by a slide secured to the bracket m² and so
arranged that it allows the pawl to engage with the ratchet teeth either
throughout the entire stroke of the needle bar or throughout a portion
of said stroke only, according to the position which may be given to
said slide. The rod q* may also be operated by the needle lever instead
of by the needle bar; the pawl may however be turned back and
thrown entirely out of gear with the cam wheel if it is desired to stop
the motion of said cam wheel. The cam wheel is provided on one side
with projections or cams s² of various forms, such, for instance, as shown
in Figures 18, 19, & 20, and these cams act on a lever 12 which is
secured to the end of a rod 2 that extends down through the guide rod c
and through the tubular bar E to which the presser foot is attached, the
bottom end of the rod u being made square to fit into a square socket
in the presser foot bar, so that an oscillating motion imparted to said rod
will be transmitted to the presser foot. The lever is drawn up towards
the cams 2 by a spring 2, and it is provided with a hinged tappet
arm w, the end of which bears against the cams. This tappet arm is
adjusted by a set screw 22, so that the amount of motion imparted to the

page_text: rod by the screws
can be increased or diminished at pleasure.
The presser foot which I use in this case is made in two parts,
see Figures 10 to 15, viz., the part y which is attached to the bar E,
and the part which is hinged to the part y2 by a pivot a³, best
scen in Fig. 12. The part 2 is provided with a horizontal tubular
socket to receive the end of a rod c³, the upper end of which is bent
and flattened and made to catch in a guide d', see Fig. 7, attached to the
bracket m². By this arrangement the part 2 of the presser foot which
bears directly on the work is held in a parallel position and receives a
reciprocating motion, while the part y² of said presser foot oscillates with
the presser bar F. The work to be sewed is placed under the presser
plate and on the additional throat plate that is provided with a lip f³
which projects downwards and catches into a recess g³ on the feed dog e',
best seen in Figures 1 & 10. From the additional throat plate e³ extends
a rod back to a guide plate 23, which is held loosely down upon the
main cloth plate A by a set screw, and from this guide plate rises a
standard that connects by a tubular rod with the pivot a³ of the
presser plate 2. By this arrangement the reciprocating motion of the
presser plate is transmitted to the additional cloth plate and to the work
held between said presser plate and cloth plate, and if the set screw
which holds the feed dog: e' down upon the lever f¹, Fig. 1, is loosened
said feed dog participates in the reciprocating motion of the additional
cloth plate. By the combination of the feed motion and of the cam
motion, therefore a zig-zag motion is imparted to the work under the
needle n, and seams or stitches can be produced of various form, such,
for instance, as shown in Figures 18, 19, & 20, and it is obvious that by
changing the forms of the cams the stitches can be varied to any desired
extent. By attaching a centre point m³, see Fig. 10, to the rod
which connects the additional cloth plate with the guide plate the
fancy stitches can be sewed in a circle, and in this case I use a feed dog
with a single tooth or point, so that the work can turn round without
wrinkling. For the purpose of making what I term the semi-over-
hand stitch, or, in other words, for sewing one piece of material on
another by a zig-zag stitch passing alternately down through both pieces
of material and then only through the lower piece, I attach to the
rod an adjustable edge gauge n³, which forms a guide for the upper
piece of material, as shown in Fig. 15. For the purpose of making
what I term a zig-zag edge seam, which serves to sew two pieces of
material together edge to edge, as shown in Fig. 13, I substitute for the

page_text: additional throat plate e³ another throat plate os, see Fig. 13, which is
also provided with a downwardly projecting lip to engage with the
feed dog, but which is connected to the presser plate by means of
a set screw q³ provided with a jam nut p³, and so arranged that it can
be introduced in the slot of a lip which rises from the upper surface
of the throat plate os. This lip also serves as the gauge for guiding the
two pieces of material to be united, one piece being made to bear against
the other side of said gauge, and by means of the set screw p³ this
gauge can be so adjusted that the joint of the two pieces to be united
is just under the point of the needle. The throat plate o instead of
being guided by the guide plate is simply guided by a pin projecting
downward into a slot in the main cloth plate, as shown by dotted lines
in Fig. 13. By changing the form of the cams this zig-zag edge stitchi
can be so modified that the needle passes down first through one of the
pieces to be joined, then through the joint, and then through the other
piece. This double edge gauge and the throat plate o³ may also be
attached to the presser foot Fe in the manner shown in Fig. 14, the
presser foot itself being provided with two set screws which serve to set
the edge gauge. This throat plate o³ may also be used for sewing an
ordinary overhand seam. In some cases I find it of advantage to use
a spring presser foot F', such as shown in Figs. 16 & 17; this foot is
provided with a springs, which exerts a slight pressure on the work
when the throat plate descends or the presser foot rises, so that the work
cannot be displaced by any accident.
The third machine to which I have applied some of my improvements
is of that class in which the shuttle travels in a circular race placed in a
horizontal plane. This machine is illustrated on Sheets VII. & VIII.
of the Drawing, in which Fig. 1 represents a transverse vertical section;
Fig. 2 is a longitudinal vertical section; Fig. 3, a plan or top view;
Fig. 4, an inverted plan; and the remaining Figures are details which
will be referred to as the description progresses. Similar letters indicate
corresponding parts.
The letter A designates the cloth plate of my sewing mecanism,
which is made of cast iron or any other suitable material, and is supported
by the bed B. In the cloth plate is a circular recess a through which
rises the shaft C, and on the upper end of this shaft is fitted the disk b
which serves to support the shuttle S. The lower end of the shaft C
has its bearing in an arm D which is rigidly attached to the under

page_text: surface of the cloth plate, and said shaft is adjustable up and down by a
screw b, which screws in the arm D, as shown in Figures 1 and 2, and
which is locked in the required position by a lock nut c. On the shaft C
are mounted the cam E and the driving pulley F, and the bed B is sup-
ported by the table G, which is perforated with an aperture d to admit
the arm D and the shaft C with its cam and pulley. To the under
surface of the table is secured an arm H which embraces the lower end
of the arm D, so that the bed together with the entire sewing
mechanism can be swivelled on the table G in either direction. The
head of the screw bis countersunk to admit the pointed end of standard e,
shown in Fig. 1, which rises from the frame supporting the table G, and
which is intended to be adjustable, so that by its action the table is
relieved from the main portion of the weight of the sewing mechanism,
and said sewing mechanism can, be swivelled on, the table with com-
paratively little friction. The belt which imparts motion to the shaft C
extends round the pulley F, so that the same does not interfere with the
swivel motion of the sewing mecanism. The cam E produces the
oscillating motion of the needle arm I, which has its fulcrum on the rock
shaft J, and said cam, is so shaped that it will produce the required
motion of the needle arm in whatever direction the shaft C is turned,
and the machine when used with the double-pointed shuttle will make a
good stitch when worked in either direction. This object is effected by
forming the cam so that it makes two loops for each revolution, either
one or the other loop. being used according to the direction in which the
double-pointed shuttle moves. K is the take-up which oscillates on the
screw or pivot f, motion being imparted to it by the cam E, which is so
shaped that it produces the requisite motion of the take-up. in whatever
direction the shaft C may be revolved. The advantage of the inde-
pendent take-up has been fully described in one of my previous
applications for a Patent, and I do not therefore repeat it here.. The
shuttle S, which rests on the disk b', is carried round in the recess a. of the
cloth plate by the action of the shuttle driver g, which is provided with
two noses to bear on the shoulders h of the shuttle. These shoulders are
made to coincide with radii drawn from the centre of the shuttle race
or recess a, so that the action of the shuttle driver does not produce an
outward pressure on the shuttle, and consequently the friction of said
shuttle on the circumference of the shuttle race is not increased from.
that source. The shoulders h are champered off from both sides toward
the middle, so that the loop of the needle thread readily passes over them,

page_text: and the discharge of the needle thread is also facilitated by the radial
position of said shoulders, since by giving such a position to said
shoulders the thread is prevented being wedged in between the shuttle
driver and the shuttle. The disk b' is placed loosely on the upper end of
the shaft C, being compelled to revolve with the same by a key or pro-
jection i which drops into a groove on the shaft, as shown in Fig. 3, and
the shaft is bored out to receive the yielding centrej which is supported
by the spring k, see Fig. 3. This centre terminates in a sharp point on
which is placed the cap ', so that the upper surface of the cap is free
to accomodate itself to the inner surface of the cover of the shuttle
race, and consequently said cap is capable of retaining the shuttle thread
with a uniform tension, thereby preventing the shuttle from catching in
its own thread, at the same time the centre point is free to revolve in
the cap with very little friction if the cap should remain stationary by
its action on the thread or on the cover of the shuttle race. The upper
portion of the socket of the yielding centre is bored out somewhat larger
than the body of the centre, so that a split tube m can be placed over it,
and in order to compel this split tube to revolve with the shaft C the
shank of the yielding centre is made square to fit in a corresponding
square part of the socket. The split tube is provided with a stem to fit
the central hole in the bobbin or spool o of the shuttle, so that the
same can be readily placed thereon for winding the thread. During
the operation of winding the cover of the shuttle race and the
cap K¹ have to be removed, see Figure 11. The tension of the shuttle
thread is regulated in the shuttle by two open pins p, p, one of which is
provided with a hook so as to prevent the thread from slipping off
or coming in contact with the spool, the space in the shuttle being
necessarily crowded and the position of the pins being such that the
thread is liable to slip off. A bench 7, which rises from the disk to a
level with the upper surface of the shuttle, or nearly so, and which fills
up that portion of said disk not occupied by the shuttle and shuttle
driver, serves to support the shuttle thread and the loop of the needle
thread after the same has passed over the shuttle, and prevents the same
from dropping down in front of the shuttle, and thereby a correct opera-
tion of this portion of the sewing mechanism is insured. In sewing
circular or curved seams, such as shown in Fig. 10, I use a centre
point, a detached sectional view of which is shown in Fig. 12. It
consists of an angular arm, which is adjustable in a socket t on the
side of the arm that supports the presser foot, and said arm is provided at

page_text: its loose end with a tubular socket to receive the point r. This point is
depressed by the action of a spring u, and it is provided with a handle
so that it can be conveniently raised against the action of said spring.
By this arrangement I am enabled to raise the point of contact with the
fabric to be sewed whenever it may be required without disturbing the
position of the angular arm in its socket t. While sewing curved seams
I use a moveable centre v, which projects from the feed bar L. If an
ordinary rough surface feed is used the material to be sewed is not free
to turn round the centre point r, and it is liable to become wrinkled, but
by using a feed bar with a single point the material can turn freely
round the centre point », and smooth even seams are produced. The
motion of the feed bar is produced by a cam M, which is secured to the
inner surface of the main cam E, and which is plainly shown in Fig. 5.
This cam is adjustable on the cam E by a screw or catch, so that it can
be readily moved a sufficient distance and secured in the proper position
to correspond to the direction in which the machine is turned. In order
to obtain a correct feed it must begin to act when the needle leaves the
fabric, and fall back as soon as the needle begins to enter said fabric;
and if the cam M should be made stationary it could be set to produce
the required feed, as the machine revolves in one direction, but it would
not work correctly if the machine should be reversed; but since one
of the main advantages of the double-pointed shuttle consists in
that it allows of producing a stitch in whatever direction the machine
is turned it is indispensable to have the cam M adjustable, so
that it can be set to correspond to the direction in which the machine
is turned. The presser foot N of my sewing machine is provided
with a recess w to admit the braid, and with a spring x, which
is screwed down on the top of said presser foot, and which is provided
with an oblique edge bearing on the presser foot near the edge of the
recess w. By said oblique edge the outer edge of the braid is kept in
close contact with the guide hook or lip y that projects down from the
spring over the edge of the presser foot, see Fig. 7. By this arrange-
ment I am enabled to sew a braid close to the edge of the material to
which said braid is to be secured, and after one edge of the braid has
thus been secured it can be readily turned over and secured at its other
edge, as indicated in Fig. 7. When the braid is not to be used, and in
sewing circular or curved scams, the recess w is filled up by inserting a
suitable slide or filling piece. The needle n is secured in the needle arm

page_text: in the usual manner, and to the side of the needle arm is hinged the
needle threader T. This needle threader is provided with a notch c³,
see Fig. 3, and when it is turned down to the position shown in Figs. 1
and 1* said notch drops over the needle, and retains the threader in the
proper position in relation to the needle. After the thread has been
introduced the needle threader is turned up out of the way. This hinged
needle threader is subjected to the action of a springs, which retains the
same when turned up and also when turned down, and which keeps the
same when turned down in close contact with the needle, so that the
thread can be readily introduced. Said needle threader also serves to
adjust. the needle in the proper position, and this operation is effected by
a pointed piece of sheet steel o, see Fig. 9. When the needle threader
is down the pointer o is introduced into the same, and the needle is
moved up and down until the point of said pointer passes through its
eye, the edge of said pointed piece being held down close to the bottom
of the needle threader. After the needle has once been set the needle
threader when turned down will without fail come in the required
position to guide the thread to the needle eye.
It is obvious that this needle threader is applicable to sewing machines
of any desired construction.
Having thus described this Invention, and the manner of putting
the same into execution, I will now state that what I claim is, referring
to Sheets I. & II. of the Drawings,
1st. Making the needle slide M and the guide rod P, either or both,
in the form of tubes closed below so as to prevent oil used in lubricating
them from falling on the table, substantially as described.
2ond. The combination of the guide rods O and Q with the holding
plate S, substantially as and for the purpose described.
3rd. Making the needle and presser guide rods O and Q, cither or
both, hollow to allow the escape of air, substantially as described.
4th. The combination of the thread guide & with the presser foot,
substantially as described.
5th. The hook 28 formed substantially as and for the purpose
described.
6th. The combination of the grooved shuttle with the hook 28, as and
for the purpose set forth.

page_text: 7th. The disconnected friction pins in the shuttle, arranged substan-
tially as described.
8th. The shuttle S' constructed as shown and described.
9th. The spring L arranged so as to bear upwards against the needle
slide, substantially as described.
10th. The combination of the eccentric 77, universal joint G, I, rod F,
and needle lever C, constructed and operating substantially as and for
the purpose described.
11th. The tension device X, y, and the take-up W, arranged and
combined substantially as described.
12th. The combination of the reversible slide r, the nut n having
arms p, p, and the rock shaft u having toes t, t, substantially as
described.
13th. The lever w provided with two shoulders 1, 1, in combination
with the spring x, substantially as described.
14th. The adjustable plate 7 for regulating the length of the stitches
in combination with the jaws 5, 5, of the feeding apparatus, substantially
as described.
15th. The box that holds the feed wheel composed of the rigid plate 11,
the spring plate 12, and the elastic rings 14, 16, substantially as
described.
16th. The hollow axis in which the feed wheel turns in combination
with the hollow hub closed at one end, substantially as shown and
described.
17th. The combination with the shuttle of the projecting flange 42
and shoulder 41, either or both, arranged and operating substantially as
set forth.
Referring to Sheets III., IV., V., and VI. of the Drawings,―
18th. The cage provided with a clamping screw c in combination
with the flat shank a of the needle rod and with the needle n, sub-
stantially as described.
19th. The curved neck d on the end of the presser bar E, substantially
as and for the purpose set forth.

page_text: 20th. The raised eye f in the shuttle S, substantially as shown and
described.
21st. The depressions in the rim g of the shuttle S, substantially as
set forth.
22ond. The shoulders o on
with the middle line of the
described.
the shuttle being situated on a level
height of the spool, substantially as
23rd. The projecting rim g on the back of the shuttle in combination
with the circular groove in the shuttle race, substantially as set
forth.
24th. The additional segmental lip i on the back of the shuttle in
combination with the annular groove j in the shuttle race, substantially
as described.
25th. The combination of a smooth eccentric, a shuttle travelling in a
circular race, and an eye-pointed needle arranged so that each stitch
is finished before the next stitch is commenced, substantially as
described.
26th. The shoulders 1, 2, on the circular rim in the shuttle race R,
substantially as set forth.
27th. The annular depression j in the shuttle race R in combination
with hooks p, p, of the shuttle driver, substantially as set forth.
28th. The cast off hooks r, r, in the shuttle race in combination with
the noses p, p, of the shuttle driver, as described.
29. The radial depression in the shuttle race R, substantially as
described.
30th. The protector u surrounding the elastic centre 8, substantially
as set forth.
31st. The hinged door on the shuttle driver, substantially as
described.
32ond. The double cam x, x, on the shuttle driver acting on the feed a
dog, substantially as set forth.
33rd. The oscillating lever supporting the throat plate y and impart-
ing to the same a rising and falling motion, substantially as described.

page_text: 34th. The self-adjusting cam a¹ in combination with the lever z and
throat plate y, substantially as set forth.
35th. The moveable shoe d' in combination with the oscillating lever z
and cam a, substantially as described.
36th. The tappet arm
secured to a rod j' which slides parallel with
the main shaft I in combination with the conical cam x, x, substantially
as set forth.
37th. The arm f' which oscillates on a pin situated in line with the
main shaft and supports the feed dog e¹ in combination with the rising
and falling throat plate y, substantially as described.
38th. The slotted hub o¹ of the eccentric l' in combination with the
stop q', substantially as set forth.
39th. The slotted hub of the cam a' which actuates the take-up in
combination with the stop attached to the hub of the eccentric ",
substantially as described.
40th. The brake y' in combination with the slotted hub of the cam n
and with the spring w', substantially as set forth.
41st. Placing the shuttle race, the shuttle driver, and the feeder in
line with the main shaft, substantially as described.
42ond. The finger ¹ in combination with the take-up s', substantially
as set forth.
43rd. The combination of a cam wheel L with the presser foot and
cloth plate, substantially as set forth.
44th. The pawl d or p² actuated by the needle bar or needle lever in
combination with the cam wheel K or L, substantially as described.
45th. The swivel plate 23 under the presser foot y in combination
with the guide rod c³, substantially as set forth.
46th. The combination of the additional throat plate e with the
presser foot and cam wheel L, substantially as described.
47th. The flange fs on the throat plate es in combination with the
feed dog. e', substantially as set forth.
48th. The double edge gauge on the throat plate o³ in combination
with the oscillating presser foot y, z, substantially as described.

page_text: 49th. The guiding screw q³ secured in the presser foot in combination
with the lip of the throat plate o³, substantially as set forth.
50th. The arrangement of a hinged spring lever provided with a set
screw and with a projection which acts on the cam wheel L in combina-
tion with the rod us and presser foot E, substantially as described.
51st. The slide in combination with the pawl p and cam wheel L,
substantially as described.
52ond. The centre point m³ in combination with the additional throat
plate e³ and oscillating presser foot y2, 3, substantially as set forth.
53rd. The embroidery attachment consisting of a cam wheel K
operated from the needle bar or needle lever and actuating the rod h
with oblique thread guides 2, substantially as set forth.
544th. The bearing spring on the presser foot E, substantially as
described.
54th. The adjustable edge gauge n³ in combination with the
reciprocating throat plate and cam wheel.
Referring to Sheets VII. & VIII. of the Drawing,--
55th. The arm D and brace H in combination with each other and
the shaft C, table A, and platform G, substantially as and for the
purpose described.
56th. The independent take-up K and cam E in combination with the
double-pointed shuttle S, constructed and operating substantially as and
for the purpose described.
57th. Making the shoulders h of the double-pointed shuttle S radiating
from the centre of the shuttle race, substantially as and for the purpose 2
described.
58th. The arrangement of the winding attachment m in combination
with the elastic centre j, substantially as and for the purpose set
forth.
59th. The cap k in combination with the elastic centre j and with the 3
shuttle race, constructed and operating substantially as and for the
purpose described.
60th. The hook pin p' in combination with the pin p in the shuttle,
substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

page_text: 61st. The moveable centre v in combination with the adjustable
centre point r, constructed and operating substantially as and for the
purpose set forth.
62ond. The adjustable cam M on the main cam E combined and
operating in connection with the feed bar L, substantially as and for the
purpose set forth.
63rd. The recess to in the presser foot in combination with the
adjustable spring constructed as described, which keeps the braid up
against the shoulder y, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
In witness whereof, I, the said Henri Adrien Bonneville, have
hereto set my hand and seal, this Seventeenth day of August,
in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and
sixty-nine.