IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BUTTONS
Year: 1845

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, WILLIAM
ELLIOTT, of Birmingham, in the County of Warwick, Button Manufacturer,
send greeting.
WHEREAS Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Royal Letters Patent, bearing date at Westminster, the Sixteenth day of
October, in the ninth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and
successors, give and grant unto me, the said William Elliott, my exors,
admors, and assigns, Her especial licence, full power, sole privilege and
authority, that I, the said William Elliott, my exors, admors, and assigns, or
such others as I, the said William Elliott, my exors, admors, or assigns,
should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all
times during the term of years therein expressed, should and lawfully might
make, use, exercise, and vend, within England, Wales, and the Town of
Berwick-upon-Tweed, my Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE
OF BUTTONS;" in which said Letters Patent is contained a proviso, that I, the
said William Elliott, shall cause a particular description of the nature of
my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be
inrolled in Her said Majesty's High Court of Chancery within six calendar
months next and immediately after the date of the said in part recited Letters
Patent, as in and by the same, reference being thereunto had, will more
fully and at large appear.

page_text: NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said
William Elliott, do hereby declare that the nature of my said Invention,
and the manner in which the same is to be performed, are fully described
and ascertained in and by the following statement thereof, reference being
had to the Drawings hereunto annexed, and to the figures and letters marked
thereon (that is to say):-
My Invention consists, first, of improvements in the manufacture of that
description of covered buttons wherein grooved or hollow rings are used.
Secondly, my Invention consists in forming grooves or channels in the back
shells or collets of covered buttons made by dies and pressure where flexible
shanks are used, whereby buttons may be sewn on to a garment in a manner
to cause them to lie closer to the garment; and this part of my Invention
also consists of combining flexible shanks with such metal shanks as are
formed by pressing or forming part of the back metal shell or collet into a
shank.
Thirdly, my Invention consists of applying an elastic shank of india-rubber
suitably covered, in order that the shank may yield when drawn on, and yet
return and keep the button close to the garment when released from the
strain.
Fourthly, my Invention consists of a mode of making covered buttons by
dies and pressure, the covering being all over the back and front of the
button.
Fifthly, my Invention consists of a mode of making paper, millboard, or
panel-board buttons by pressure in dies.
And, sixthly, my Invention consists of a mode of making composition
buttons in dies by pressure.
And in order that my Invention may be most fully understood and readily
carried into effect, I will proceed to describe the means pursued by me.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.
In the making of that description of covered buttons where hollow or
grooved rings are used, it has been heretofore usual to make the two walls of
equal height; now, one part of my Invention is the making of the inner wall of
the ring higher than the outer wall, by which the covering of the backs of such
buttons is facilitated and improved. And another of my improvements is in
the manufacture of a tuft at the back, kept out by internal stuffing or padding,
by which such descriptions of buttons may be sewn on to a garment without
passing the needle through and through the button, thus avoiding the appear-
ance of any stitches on the face or front of the buttons when they have been

page_text: fastened to a garment. Figure 1, a shows a plan and section of a grooved or
hollow ring, such as I use for making buttons, the inner wall a¹ being higher
than the outer wall a'; this ring is formed by dies, as is well understood, and
before commencing to cover it the inner wall a¹ is bent slightly in towards the
outer wall by means of the dies, Figure 2, where 6 is a section of the lower die,
and c, the punch; and Figure 3 shows the ring a in plan and section, after it
has undergone such process of compressing the inner wall. Figure 4, d shows
a plan and edge view of a piece of fabric for covering the front. Figure 5 shows
a plan and edge view of a piece of fabric for covering the back of the button of
the ring a, and the ring a is covered in the following manner:-Figure 6 shows
dies in section, e being the lower die, and f, the punch. The fabric d is placed
in the die e, as shewn, then the collar g is placed thereon, and the ring a placed
therein; the piece of fabric i, Figure 6, is then placed on the collar g, as
shown, when the punch being caused to descend, will carry down the back
cover i and the ring a and the front fabric d into the die e, causing the edge of
the fabric i to be sunk into the ring a, between the two walls. The punch
being raised, the collar g is removed, and the tube h introduced into the die, as
shown at Figure 7, which gathers the edge of the fabric d over the outer wall
of the ring a, when the punch f, again descending, forces the edges of the
fabric d into the hollow or groove of the ring a, causing it to lap over the
outer wall a³, as is shewn at Figures 8 and 9, and the button is then in a state
to be finished by means of the dies, which are shown in section at Figure 10,.
which will render the button into the finished shape, Figure 11, where a back
and front view and also a section are shewn. It should be stated that the back
covering fabric should be strong, whilst the front may be of finer materials.
The button thus formed is one suitable for being fastened by sewing through
and through, and such description of buttons are commonly made of linen, but
they may be covered with silk or other fabric, according to the purposes to
which they are to be applied. When I make such description of button, as
above described, with a projecting tuft or nipple at back to act as a shank, so
that the button may be attached by sewing through such tuft or projecting
nipple, then, in place of employing the flat back fabric i, before described, I
cause the back covering fabric ¹ to be pressed into a tuft or nipple by means
of dies, as is well understood in making flexible shanks for covered buttons,
see Figure 12, where a plan and edge view of the fabric i, properly prepared,
is shewn; and such fabric may be a single strong fabric, or it may consist of
two or more thicknesses of fabric. And in order to insure the tuft or nipple
standing out from the back of the button, I introduce a filling piece in the.
centre of the ring a; and when the buttons are to be washing buttons, the

page_text: interior or filling piece should be waterproof, for which reason I use a thick
piece of canvass, coated over several times on each side with india-rubber
solution, and discs are cut therefrom, corresponding in diameter with the inner
diameter of the ring a; and such material is to be pressed into the centre of
the ring a before covering it, and the finishing dies are to be sunk in the
centre, so as not to injure the tufts or nipples at the back of the button.
When I am making such descriptions of buttons covered with silk, then I
use an internal filling piece j, Figure 13, made of panel board, that is, thick
millboard saturated will oil, as is well understood, or vulcanized india-rubber
or other suitable material may be used. When for a button with a convex
front, the filling is to be made convex; but when for buttons with a flat front,
then the filling piece j is to be flat in front, and I at the same time press
an indent or hollow in the centre at the back, opposite where the tuft or pro-
jection comes; and I sometimes use a disc of metal k, Figure 14, to form
a hard surface for the front of the button, and when such front plate k is used
it is placed first on to the front covering fabric, then the ring a, with the
central filling material, the covering of the front and back is then to be per-
formed, as above described.
I would remark, in respect of this the first part of my Invention, that I do
not claim the making of buttons with hollow or grooved rings, a previous
Patent having been taken for that, amongst other improvements, in manu-
facturing buttons, and under which Letters Patent I am working by licence.
I will now proceed to describe the second part of my Invention. Figure 15
shows a back view and a section of a button, made according to this part of
my Invention; Figure 16 shews a back view and section of the back collet or
shell; Figure 17, a section and plan of the flexible shank; and Figure 18,
a section and plan of the filling piece of button board. This button is put
together in the ordinary manner, and the only difference is, that there is a
channel formed or indented into the back of the collet or buck shell m of the
button, as well as a hole through for the passage of the nipple or tuft of the
flexible shank; and the object of making such channel in combination with
the hole for the passage of the flexible shank is, that the flexible shank or
tuft should come only on a level with the general back of the button, and not
protrude beyond as heretofore, and in fastening on such a button to a garment,
the needle passes through the tuft in the direction of the channel, and not in the
opposite direction; hence, when a button thus made is fastened on to a
garment, it will lie more close than when the tuft or flexible shank protrudes
beyond the general back of the button.
I would remark, in respect to this part of my Invention, that I am aware

page_text: that it is not new to make a channel at the back of a covered button made by
dies and pressure, when a wire shank is used across such channel, and a Patent
has been taken therefor.
This part of my Invention, it is to be understood, is confined to the com-
bination of a channel with a hole for the passage of a flexible shank, as herein
described. Figure 19 shows a back view and a section of a button with a
flexible shank, combined with a metal shank, formed by pressing part of the
centre of the collet or back shell into a shank, the edges of such shank being
either pressed and folded back or pressed and folded inwards, as has heretofore
been practised, and Patents have before been obtained for making buttons
with such descriptions of shank; therefore to that part of the formation of a
shank for covered buttons made by dies and pressure I make no claim; but
it has been found that in making metal shanks out of the centre of the back
shell or collet, the edges, however carefully folded and pressed down, have
been liable to cut; therefore, the object of this part of my Invention is to
apply a flexible tuft or shank of woven fabric through the opening caused by
forming the metal shank. Figure 20 shews a plan and section of the woven
fabric for the shank, and as there will be no strain to draw it out of the button,
in consequence of the metal shank, the flexible shank fabric may be of small
diameter, as is shown. Figure 21 shows a back view and two sections of a
back shell or collet. The parts are to be put together in the ordinary manner
of making covered buttons by dies and pressure, the flexible shank being
pressed into its place in the back shell or collet before introducing the collet
or shell into its place in the button. This button is shewn to be made with
a channel, but that is not necessary, as the metal shank part formed out of
the shell itself may protrude beyond the general back of the button.
I will now describe the third part of my Invention. Figure 22 shows a
section of a button constructed according to this part of my Invention.
Figure 23 shows a back view, an inside view, and a section of the back shell,
having a flexible shank of india-rubber suitably covered by braiding or other-
wise, and when considerable strength of shank is required, I prefer what is
called vulcanized india-rubber for such purposes, which is now well known, and
which is more permanently elastic than india-rubber in its natural state, and
I prefer that the same should be covered by braiding; the thread or threads
of vulcanized india-rubber being kept distended as it is braided, so that it will
run up in length when taken from the machine. Figure 24 shows an inside
view and section of the back shell or collet. In making this back shell there
is a groove or channel formed in the back, and there are two holes, as shewn,
but the manner of forming the back of the button and of applying the elastic.

page_text: shank suitable to be sewn to a garment may be varied in making up the
button; the covering by dies and pressure is to be performed in the ordinary
manner, the flexible shank being first drawn through the openings in the back
shell and fastened by cement or otherwise to the filling piece of button board,
as is shown when the back shell is to be introduced, and the parts of the
button pressed together, as is well understood.
I will now describe the fourth part of my Invention. Figure 25 shows a
back and front view of a button made according to this part of my Invention,
this button being covered at front and back with woven fabric; Figure 26
shows a section of the button; Figure 27 shows a section and back and front
view of the button board, or it may be panel board, used for filling the interior
of the button; this filling piece is made of a solid dise pressed into form by
suitable dies before being introduced into the button, and it is the using of such
solid piece, first moulded or pressed into form, combined with the circumstance
of its being covered at back by a woven fabric without the intervention of a disc
or shell of metal between it and the covering fabric, which constitutes part of the
novelty of this part of my Invention. The front and back covering fabrics may
be of silk or other material; and it should be stated, that the back covering
material may be one strong fabric, or a strong and a finer fabric, which may or
may not be cemented together by a flexible cement or otherwise combined
before pressing the same, so as to present a tuft or nipple at the back to act as a
shank, or a double fabric may be woven in the manner of quilting, as is well
understood, having a coarse and strong side and a fine side, so that the finer
side may come outside at the back of the button. I do not, however, claim
the cementing or fastening of the two fabrics by cement, nor the using of one
strong fabric as the back covering of a button, nor the using of two separate
thicknesses of fabric for such purposes; but it is new to use double woven
fabric in the manner of quilting for the purpose of making back coverings to
buttons made by dies and pressure, such back coverings being at once the
cover and the tuft or shank by which the button is fastened to a garment. I
would state, that the solid filling piece may be perforated in the centre, so as
to allow of the use of a flexible shank of the ordinary kind protruding there
through, in which case I prefer that the portion of paper or board cut out for
the passage of the shank should be introduced again when the shank is in its
place, which will tend to hold the flexible shank. In bringing these parts
together, the front covering material is to be first put on to the die, then the
front shell is to be placed thereon, and the two are to be caused to enter the
die, as is well understood, then the solid filling piece, previously pressed into
shape, with the back covering fabric, also previously shaped, are to be intro-

page_text: duced, and the whole pressed together. And I would state that I prefer that
the back covering fabric should be indented to correspond with the nipple or
projection of the flexible shank, when the strong fabric used therefor is caused
to pass through the solid filling piece, in place of being outside thereof, together
with the outer covering fabric.
I will now describe the fifth part of my Invention. This part of the Inven-
tion consists in making paper buttons by first making millboard from pulp
(which I prefer to be dyed black) to the thickness required, and then saturating
it with oil, in the manner of making panel boards, as is well understood.
Figure 29 shows an edge view and plan of a piece of panel board, from which
has been removed a series of discs by cutting and turning in a lathe, in the
manner of cutting out bone buttons; and Figure 30 shows an edge view and
plan of one of the discs, which has also been shaped by cutting in a lathe, in
the manner of making bone buttons, and there is an indent produced at the
back to receive a shank, in the manner of making horn buttons, and the shank
is pressed therein in the same manner as if making horn buttons; the button
is then coated with varnish, as heretofore when making paper buttons, and
when dry, is pressed in dies, in the same manner as making horn buttons, or
in place of using metal shanks, flexible shanks may be applied. Figure 32
shows another disc, with a recess formed therein by cutting in a lathe; and
Figure 33 shews a flexible shank to be applied thereto.
In applying a flexible shank, there is a back metal shell, a flexible shank,
a filling piece of button board, and a disc of metal, as is shewn in the section
at Figure 83; these are introduced into the back of the button, and when
pressed in dies (which, though warm, should not be so hot as to injure the
fabric of the shank,) will form the button, as shewn at Figure 84. This
button having been varnished and dried before introducing the flexible shank,
will, like the previously described button, be ready for receiving its finishing
pressure in plain or ornamenting dies, in the same manner as horn buttons,
and the edges are to be finished in like manner. I prefer to use japanners'
varnish, and when the buttons are varnished with such varnish, they are dried
in japanners' stoves.
I will now describe the sixth part of my Invention. I take a quantity of
dyed pulp, say twenty pounds, and run it on to a mould, as if about to make
millboard, but having thereby deprived it of as much water as possible, I place
it into an iron vessel heated by steam or other convenient means, the vessel
having a vertical axis with blades to form a stirrer. In this vessel I evaporate
the water of the pulp nearly to dryness; I then introduce two pounds of glue
dissolved in one quart of water, two quarts of tar or black varnish, and eight

page_text: pounds of powder (consisting of ten parts whitening and one part lamp
black); when these are all well mixed, I take out portions, say about eight
ounces, and put the same into square metal moulds, and subject the material
to strong pressure, so as to obtain sheets somewhat thicker than the sheets of
panel board before mentioned, and then by tools such as are used for cutting
out gun wadding I cut out discs for making buttons, and they are then to
have metal shanks pressed into the backs, or flexible shanks may be applied
by making recesses at the back, as above shewn in respect to the previous
paper buttons; the discs, when with metal shanks, are then to be pressed in
dies such as are used for making horn buttons, to bring them into the proper
shape; they are then dried for a few hours in a japanners' stove (and if to be
with flexible shanks, then the blank with a recess at the back is to be pressed
and stoved without the shank, and the shank applied after varnishing and
before the last pressure), and they are to be varnished with a spirit varnish,
consisting of one pint of naptha polish, or French polish, ground with one
ounce of Prussian blue and eight to ten drops of linseed oil, laid on to tho
buttons with a soft brush, putting on two or three coats, and drying them in a
japanners' stove each time. The buttons are then to be pressed in dies, plain
or ornamented, such as are used by horn button makers, and the buttons are
to be finished in the same manner as horn buttons.
Having thus described the nature of my Invention, and the manner in
which the same is to be performed, I would have it understood that I do not
confine myself to the details here shewn, so long as the peculiar character of
either part of my Invention be retained; but what I claim is,-
First, the making of the inner wall of the ring a higher than the outer
one, as herein described. And I also claim the mode of manufacturing such
descriptions of buttons as have hollow or grooved rings, with covered backs
having tufts or nipples and filling pieces, as herein described. And I also
claim the mode of applying a flexible shank through a paper or panel board,
by filling up the hole through which the flexible tuft passes, as herein
described.
Secondly, I claim the making of covered buttons with flexible woven
shanks, by having a channel in the back shell combined with a hole for the
passage of the woven tuft or shank. And I also claim the combining of a
flexible shank with a metal shank pressed or formed out of the back shell.
Thirdly, I claim the application of a flexible shank of india-rubber, so that
the button may be sewed to a garment, and be drawn close thereto by the
india-rubber shank.
Fourthly, I claim the mode of making covered buttons by dies and pressure,

page_text: by employing a solid filling piece, as herein described, without any metal shell
or disc between the back covering and the solid filling pieces, as herein
described. And I claim the combining of double woven fabrics as a back
covering fabric in the manufacture of die and pressure made covered buttons.
Fifthly, I claim the mode herein described of making paper buttons by
cutting out discs from panel board, and forming buttons therefrom by dies and
pressure, as herein described.
And, sixthly, I claim the mode of making composition buttons by combining
pulp with varnish, and making buttons therefrom by dies and pressure, as
herein described.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Elliott, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Sixteenth day of April, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and forty-six.