IMPROVEMENTS IN THE FINISHING OF MOHAIR CLOTHS AND
Year: 1855

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Isaac Beardsell, of the firm of Isaac Beardsell and
Company, Huddersfield, in the County of York, Manufacturer, for the
Invention of IMPROVEMENTS IN THE FINISHING OF MOHAIR CLOTHS AND
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Isaac Beardsell at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 12th
December 1855.
I, ISAAC BEARDSELL, of the firm of Isaac Beardsell and Company, Hudders-
field; in the County of York, Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of
tho said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE FINISHING OF MOHAIR CLOTHS AND
OTHER TEXTILE FABRICS, AND IN THE MACHINERY EMPLOYED FOR THAT PURPOSE,"
to be as follows:
1.
T
My Invention relates to forming the raised wool or nap on the surface of
mohair cloths or other textile fabrics in such manner as to form the said wool
or nap into circles, semicircles, or curls on the surface of the cloth, instead
of the old method, of laying the raised wool or nap smooth and all in one
direction. By this means I can produce new patterns of ornamental design.
One produced by the wool on the surface of the cloth being so formed was
registered by me under the Designs Act, dated April 20/55, No. 99,895,
Class 12, which pattern I then obtained by affixing a circular piece of wire
card on a block of wood, and twisting it round with the hand, which process
I found to be tedious, and subject to irregularities in the design.
This my present Invention is an improvement or extension of that principle,
and consists in arranging or combining in a suitable framework a number or

page_text: series of such wire cards, or other pointed articles, suitable for raising the wool,
fastened on to small blocks of wood, and mounted on the ends of spindles,
with pullies or warles thereon, to which I give simultaneous rotatory motion
by means of cords or bands passed over rollers, or by other suitable driving
apparatus; and underneath the said cards, mounted on the ends of spindles; is
a flat smooth bed or table, placed in such a position as to hold the cloth whilst
being operated upon by the said cards; and when the operation on the cloth
has been continued a certain time, the cards, &c. in the framework are lifted
up by means of an eccentric motion or other apparatus, so as to remove them
from contact with the cloth; during which time the cloth is passed over the
bed or table off a roller on one side of the machine on to another roller on
the other side, which rollers also keep the cloth firm in position on the bed or
table, in order to be again operated upon by the cards, and so the process is
continued until the whole length is curled.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Isaac Beardsell in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
12th June 1856.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, ISAAC
BEARDSELL, of the firm of Isaac Beardsell and Company, of Huddersfield, in
the County of York, Manufacturer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Royal
Letters Patent, bearing date the Twelfth day of December, in the year of our.
Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-five, in the nineteenth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the
said Isaac Beardsell, Her special licence that I, the said Isaac Beardsell, my
executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said. Isaac
Beardsell, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the
term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel
Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE FINISHING
OF MOHAIR CLOTHS AND OTHER TEXTILE FABRICS, AND IN THE MACHINERY EMPLOYED
FOR THAT PURPOSE," upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said
Isaac Beardsell, by an instrument in writing under my hand and seal, should
particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and
in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to

page_text: be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next
and immediately after the date of the said Royal Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Isaac Beardsell, do hereby declare the
nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed,
to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following state-
ment (that is to say) :-
My Invention relates to the mode or method of forming the raised wool or
nap on the surface of mohair cloths or other textile fabrics, so as to form the
said wool or nap into circles, semicircles, curls, or other designs on the surface
of the cloth or material, instead of the ordinary method, of laying the whole of
the raised wool or nap smooth in one direction. By this my improved method
I can produce numerous ornamental patterns or designs. One of such patterns
or designs was registered by me under the Designs Act, dated April 20th,
1855, No. 99,895, Class 12, which I then obtained by affixing a circular
piece of wire card on a block of wood, and twisted it round with the hand;
but finding that process tedious, and subject to irregularities in the design, I
have in my present Patent improved or extended the principle of my said'
Invention, by the arrangement or combination of mechanism or apparatus, in
which a number or series of such wire cards, or other pointed articles, suitable
for raising the wool, are fastened to small blocks of wood or other suitable
material, and mounted on the ends of spindles, with small pullies, whirls, or
wheels thereon, to which I give simultaneous rotary motion by passing cords
or bands over rollers, and causing the said driving bands or cords to pass over
the whirls or pullies on the spindles, or they may be driven by any suitable
driving apparatus. Underneath the said cards I fix a flat smooth bed or
table, in such a position that the cloth will rest upon it whilst being operated
upon by the said cards; and when the operation has been continued a certain
time, the spindles, cards, &c. are lifted up by means of an eccentric or other
suitable motion, so as to remove them from contact with the cloth; during
which time the cloth is passed over the bed or table from a roller on one side
of the machine to another roller on the other side thereof, which rollers also
keep the cloth firm in its position on the bed or table, in order to be again
operated upon by the cards; and so the process is continued until the whole
length is curled, producing the peculiar finish which is now known or
designated as the "whirlpool finish."
د.
The nature of my said Invention will be clearly understood by reference to
the accompanying Sheet of Drawings; in which the same letters of reference
denote the same parts in each Figure. Fig. 1 is an end elevation of my
improved machine or apparatus, and Fig. 2 is a side elevation of the same, in
.

page_text: 66
心
J
1.4
13. A
..ال.
..
IA
... L
which a, a, represent a series of spindles and blocks, with wire cards fixed
thereon, forming a kind of round brush, with flat face or surface, to which I
give simultaneous rotary motion by the driving bands or cords b, passing over
the rollers or cylinders c, d, and around the pullies or whirls e, on the said
spindles. is a bed or table, made or planed true and smooth, on which the
cloth or fabric 9 rests whilst being operated upon by the cards; h and i are
"beams" or rollers, on one of which the cloth is wound previous to being
operated upon,
from which it is passed over the aforesaid table f to the other
"beam" or roller, which takes it up as it is finished, and also keeps it firm and
tight during the operation. The movement or passage of the cloth may be
either continuous, or it may move and stop at stated periods or intervals; when
the latter is adopted, the beams will be kept in position by the palls and ratchet
wheels k, or by the method shewn in Fig. 11, as herein-after described. I is
an eccentric or cam motion, for alternately lifting and lowering the cards into
and out of contact with the cloth or fabric as it passes over the table. Figs. 3
and 4 are an elevation and plan, full size, of one of the spindles, with the
card m, block a, and whirl or pulley e thereon. Fig. 5 shews the arrange-
ment of the spindles and cards for producing the pattern or design, as regis-
tered by me under the Designs Act, April 20th, 1855, and referred to in my
Provisional Specification of this Patent. Fig. 6 shews another arrangement
of spindles, &c. for producing a pattern or design corresponding with that
arrangement of the spindles, &c. Fig. 7. represents a pattern or design pro-
duced by a continuous motion of the cloth or fabric from one beam or roller
to the other, leaving semicircles or a wavy appearance of finish thereon.
Fig. 8 is an end elevation, Fig. 9 part of a side elevation, and Fig. 10 part
of a plan, shewing another arrangement or modification of my improved
machine or apparatus, in which the card spindles a are driven by the bevil
wheel gearing p, instead of driving bands or cords, as already described.
Fig. 1-1 is a cross section of the same, in which the cloth or fabric g passes from
the beam to the beam r. s, s, are a pair of nip rollers for drawing the cloth
forward, continuous motion being given to them by the spur gear t, as seen in
Fig. 8; but when alternate motion and rest are required, I use the slip catch u
on the drawing roller; and by the stud wheel or tappet v, seen in Fig. 11,
actuating the lever W, bringing it into contact with a lug or projection on the
slip catch u, thus stopping the rotation of the rollers, and consequently the
drawing or passing forward of the cloth for the limited or necessary time of
rest. It will be clearly seen, that when the machine is put in motion, the
rapid rotation of the cards, when brought into close contact with the cloth or
fabric on the bed or table, will form the raised wool or nap on the surface of
な
*:*
1

page_text: the said cloth or fabric into circles or curls, equal in size to the diameter of the
cards, and after being allowed to operate thereon for a certain length of time,
the cards are removed from contact therewith by means of the eccentrics or
cams, thus allowing the fabric to be drawn or passed forward a suitable
distance to be again operated upon in like manner, until the surface of the
whole length or piece of cloth or fabric is formed into such circles or curls.
If it be required to produce the pattern illustrated by Fig. 7, it is only neces-
sary to give continuous motion to the cloth or fabric by disconnecting the
tappet and lever which actuates the slip catch. By other arrangements of
the spindles, and varying the sizes of the cards, new patterns or designs can
be produced. And in order to produce small patterns or designs, I find it
necessary to use or employ a series of small spur gear wheels, thus connecting
a number of the card spindles in a train to be driven together by one pair of
bevil wheels, instead of using a pair of wheels to each spindle, as shewn in
Figs. 9 and 10.
Having thus fully described and ascertained the nature and particulars of
my said Invention, and the manner of carrying the same into practical effect,
I would observe that I have not deemed it necessary to refer to every part of
my said machine or apparatus in detail, as I do not confine myself to the
precise construction or arrangement thereof as herein set forth, as such may
be varied or modified without departing from the spirit or essential feature of
the Invention; but what I claim, and believe to be new within this realm, is,-
Firstly, the mode or method of finishing mohair cloths and other textile
fabrics in the peculiar style or styles known as the "whirlpool finish" by
means of card spindles, as herein set forth.
And, secondly, the construction and arrangement of machinery or apparatus
for producing such finish, as herein described, and illustrated in the accom-
panying Sheet of Drawings, or any modification thereof.
In witness whereof, I, the said Isaac Beardsell, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Eleventh day of June, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-six.
ISAAC BEARDSELL.
Signed, sealed, and delivered by the within-
named Isaac Beardsell, in the presence of
Wx TASKER,
Patent Agent, Halifax.
(L.S.)