Year: 1885

page_text: I CHARLES GREY HILL of Arnot Hill Nottingham Gentleman do hereby declare
the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
Frillings and ruchings are largely manufactured by setting a pleated or goffered
fabric into a straight band formed by the aid of pressing rollers.
The present
invention relates to means for improving the form of the frill after the formation
of the band by the pressing rollers is completed..
For this purpose I wind a cotton around the frilling or ruching in such manner
as to bend over the frill at regular intervals and I attach this cotton to the pressed
band by passing it with the band between heated rollers. I then steam the frilling
or ruching and again remove the moisture. This sets the frill in the form in which
it has been placed by the cotton and the cotton is then removed. Or the steaming
operation may be omitted and the cotton left attached to the frilling or ruching to
hold the frill in form.
Or in some cases in place of cotton I employ mechanical fingers which whilst the
pressed band of the frilling or ruching remains straight displace the frill at
intervals and arrange it as may be required. Whilst held by these fingers the
frilling or ruching is steamed and the moisture being driven off the frill is released;
the frill then retains permanently the form in which it has been held by the fingers
whilst the pressed band remains straight. The operation of the cottons or
mechanical fingers is confined to the outer edge of the frilling or ruching.
Dated this
.
1
1007

page_text: I, CHARLES GREY HILL of Arnot Hill Nottingham Gentleman do hereby declare
the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed to
be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
Frillings and ruchings are largely manufactured by setting a pleated or goffered
fabric into a straight band formed by the aid of pressing rollers. The present
invention relates to means for improving the form of the frill after the formation
of the band by the pressing rollers is completed.
For this purpose I wind a cotton around the frilling or ruching in such manner
as to bend over the frill at regular intervals and I attach this cotton to the pressed
band by passing it with the band between heated rollers. I then steam the frilling
or ruching and again remove the moisture. This sets the frill in the form in which
it has been placed by the cotton and-the cotton is then removed. Or the steaming
operation may be omitted and the cotton left attached to the frilling or ruching to
hold the frill in form.
Or in some cases in place of cotton I employ mechanical fingers which whilst
the pressed band of the frilling or ruching remains straight displace the frill at
intervals and arrange it as may be required. Whilst held by these fingers the
frilling or ruching is steamed and the moisture being driven off the frill is released;
the frill then retains permanently the form in which it has been held by the fingers
whilst the pressed band remains straight. The operation of the cottons or
mechanical fingers is confined to the outer edge of the frilling or ruching.
In order that my said invention may be most fully understood and readily
carried into effect I will proceed to describe the drawings hereunto annexed.
Figure 1 is a plan of the machine which I employ when operating by winding a
cotton around the frilling or ruching.
Figure 2 is an elevation of the same with some of the parts removed.
Figure 3 is a transverse vertical section.
Figures 4 show the frilling or ruching in the form in which it is passed into the
machine.
It consists of two strips of gauze muslin or other suitable fabric separately
pleated and set into a band and one of the strips is somewhat narrower than the
other.
Figures 5 show the frilling or ruching as it appears on leaving the machine with
the frill displaced at regular intervals by the cottons wound around it and with
the cottons remaining still attached.
The cottons it will be seen have drawn the top of the frill downwards towards
the bands at intervals carrying it at the same time forward and opening out the
pleats.
a a is the frame of the machine. b is a wide open tube mounted in a bearing
upon the frame. b is a toothed wheel upon the tube b; it gears with another
wheel c¹ on an axis c, and this wheel again gears with a wheel d receiving
movement in a convenient manner. From the wheel d all the other parts of the
machine are driven. The axis c by bevelled pinions drives a horizontal shaft e and
this shaft, by other pinions, drives the axes f and g which pass through the interior

page_text: of the tube b. The axes ƒ and g carry corkscrew-like spirals f¹ and g¹, the former
a single spiral and the latter double and of twice the length of pitch, but the speed
of rotation of the double spiral g¹ is only one half of that of the spiral f.
The wheel b¹ also drives a wheel h¹ on a stud axis h and this gears with a wheel
immediately below it; so motion is imparted to the axis i, the axis i by bevelled
gear drives another axis on which a wheel k¹ is carried, and this, through an
intermediate wheel , drives a wheel m¹ upon an axis m. The axis m also carries
the lower pressing roller m³ the upper pressing roller n³, is carried by an axis n
which is geared with the axis m by a pinion n¹, and a corresponding pinion
immediately beneath it upon the axis m.
o is a vessel to which steam is admitted and from which the steam issues by a
slit along the top-the transverse sectional form of this vessel is shown at
Figure 1 p is a plate heated by means of gas over which the frilling or ruching
passes after the steam has operated upon it. q is a guide tube by which the
frilling or ruching in the condition shewn by Figure 4 enters the machine the
sectional form of this guide tube is given at Figure 3. r, r, are guide wires, they
are carried by a support r³.
8 is a frame fixed upon the tube b, it carries a bobbin 8¹ from which cotton is
drawn, and on the other side of the frame is the counterpoise 82-83 is a guide eye
through which the cotton drawn from the bobbin 81 passes to the work.
with
The frill in the form in which it is seen in Figure 4 enters the guide tube
the face downwards, and it is drawn along this guide tube by the pressing.
rollers m² and n which nip the flat band of the frilling or ruching-these rollers
are heated in the usual way and cottons tt slightly moistened are fed to them in
the usual manner, and by the heat and pressure are caused to adhere to the band.
But before these cottons are applied to the band the other cotton drawn from the
bobbin 8 has been wound around the frilling or ruching by the rotation of the
tube b and the frame 8 which it carries-the cotton passes from the eye 8 around
the spirals f¹ and g¹ and remains distended between them; it passes also around
the frilling or ruching issuing from the guide tube q immediately beneath the
spiral f¹. The cotton indents and draws in the edges of the frill at regular
intervals, as is clearly shown at Figures 5.
By making the spiral g¹ double these threads passing around the frilling or
ruching are caused to cross it directly from side to side; each turn of the double
spiral carrying forward upon it a complete convolution of the thread.
g is a support entering within the interior of the double spiral g¹.
The frilling or ruching after leaving the pressing rollers m³ ³ enters between
the guides and there the frilling or ruching becomes moistened by the steam ;
then it is drawn forward by hand and passes along the hot plate p which sets it in
form; the sectional form of this hot plate is shown at Figure 1b after leaving the
machine the threads t t are usually stripped from the band of the frilling or
ruching and the thread wound around it is also removed.
Figure 6 is a vertical section of a portion of a machine in which mechanical
fingers are employed to displace the frill in place of a cotton and to produce a like:
effect, turning over the head of the frill and bringing it back to the band. For
this purpose the mechanical fingers as will be explained have a compound
movement and operate to tuck the frill in beneath an edge and retain it there
until set.
Figure 7 is an horizontal section of the same machine.
Figure 8 is an end elevation.
Figure 9 shows some parts at the other end of the machine.
Figure 10 shows parts in plan.
Figures 11 and 12 show the fingers separately and full size.
Figure 13 shows a face view of the cam for controlling the fingers.
A is an axis which is rotated by means of a spur wheel A¹ at its end and a
pinion driven in any convenient way gears with this wheel. B is a drum on the
axis A. C is a guide through which the frilling or ruching as shown by Figure 9

page_text: is led on to the upper surface of the drum so that the band rests on the periphery
of the drum whilst the frill overhangs its edge. D is a head fixed on the axis A
it is built up in parts as shown in Figure 8 and there are a number of radial
openings in it in which the fingers E and F are carried. Ex and F* are short pins
held in the head D and serving as axes about which the fingers can turn. The
fingers F are slotted as shown so that they can slide longitudinally as well as turn,
but the fingers E can only turn. G is the cam by which the fingers are governed
as far as concerns the movement of their outer ends to and from the axis. H is an
inclined plate which comes against a shoulder F¹ on the fingers F and thrusts them
forward at a suitable time and retains them when they are so placed. The method
of working is as follows:-the rotation of the drum B and head D carrying with it
the fingers E and F causes the frilling to be drawn forward through the guide C.
In the neighbourhood of the entrance end of the guide the fingers E and F are
open apart scissor like as seen in Figure 7 the outer ends of the fingers F being
outside the rim of the drum B whilst the outer ends of the fingers E are within it.
The fingers E and F are arranged alternately all around the circle. As the head D
revolves carrying the fingers with it the outer fingers F fall down on to the frill
and displace it but they are stopped from falling too low by the projecting shoulder
or cam surface G₁ of the stationary cam G. The fingers F thus carry the frill down
between the alternate fingers E the tails of which rest continuously upon the cam
surface G* or in the groove or channel between this and the shoulder G**.
After the fingers F have fallen an incline at H¹ operating against a shoulder at Fl
on the finger F thrusts the finger forward and tucks the frill in beneath the flange
of the drum B and here the frill remains held. This double movement of the
fingers F is an important feature. The frill takes a serpentine course under the
fingers F and over the fingers E the fingers being here all side by side as is seen at
the upper part of Figure 1. The fingers remain thus placed for more than a
quarter revolution of the head D and during this time the frill passes a minute jet
of steam and the steam plays upon it.
The drum B is heated by a gas flame in contact with its axis and the heat of the
drum is sufficient to set the frill after it has been steamed before the fingers
release it. The tails of the fingers E as already stated remain in the guide
course G* during the whole rotation of the head the shoulder G** retaining
them whilst beneath the axis but this is not the case with the fingers F; these
having been pushed forward are able to escape over the shoulder G** and
when the fingers F get free of the drum B they fall until their tails rest upon the
surface G*** which allows the outer ends of these fingers to pass to the outer side
of the flange of the drum. The arrow I in Figure 9 shows the direction in which
the frilling or ruching is fed into the machine on to the drum and the arrow J
shows the direction in which it is drawn off. The fingers F readily yield back
when released by the plate H to allow the work to escape.
Sometimes I dispense with the fingers E and in place thereof provide comb like
teeth on the periphery of the drum.
Figure 14 is a section and Figure 15 is an end elevation of a drum so made.
B¹ B are the teeth on the drum. The fingers F F carry down the frill between
these teeth and tuck it in beneath the periphery of the drum as already described.
The steaming and drying then is performed as already described.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is
1. The process for forming a frilling or ruching consisting in setting a strip or
strips of pleated or goffered fabric into a band; then winding a thread around it
and thereby displacing the frill at intervals drawing it forward and towards the
band substantially as described.
2. The process for forming a frilling or ruching consisting in setting a strip or
strips of pleated or goffered fabric into a band; then winding a thread around it

page_text: displacing the frill at intervals; then setting the frill by the aid of heat and
moisture, and finally removing the thread substantially as described.
3. The combination in a machine for forming frillings or ruchings of the guide q
the pressing rollers m² and n³ the rotating frames and bobbin 8¹ and the revolving
spirals f¹ and g¹ substantially as described.
4. The process for forming a frilling or ruching consisting in setting a strip or
strips of pleated or goffered fabric into a band; then displacing the frill at intervals
by fingers to which a compound movement is imparted and which tuck the frill
close in beneath the edge of a supporting surface; then setting the frill by the aid
of heat and moisture and finally releasing the frill substantially as described.
5. The combination in a machine for forming frillings or ruchings of the drum B,
guide C, head D and fingers controlled by cams or inclines or equivalent means 80
that after descending they advance beneath the edge of the drum substantially as
described.
6. Apparatus for the manufacture of frillings substantially as described and
represented by the annexed drawings.
.... 011 1
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1000