An Improved Sewing Machine Attachment for use in the Manufacture of Welted Boots and Shoes.
Year: 1897

page_text: Date of Application, 30th Nov., 1897
Complete Specification Left 26th July 1808-Accented 15th Ont
1000
[Communicated from abroad by THE KEATS MASCHINEN GESELLSCHAFT (a Joint
Stock Company) of No. 10, Schafergasse, Frankfurt-on-Main, in the Empire
of Germany.]
An Improved Sewing Machine Attachment for use in the
Manufacture of Welted Boots and Shoes.
I, PHILIP ARTHUR NEWTON, of the Office for Patents, 6, Bream's Buildings,
Chancery Lane, in the County of London, Patent Agent, do hereby declare the
nature of this invention to be as follows;-
This invention relates to an improved mode of manufacturing welt boots and
shoes, and to the device employed in the operation of sewing the welt to the
upper and insole. Instead of using a channelled strip with a bent-up edge, a
heretofore, to form the welt, a strip of leather of a breadth equal only to the
finished welt is used. This strip is slit from its outer edge inwards (parallel to
the face of the strip), to a depth that will leave a solid portion suitable for
receiving the line of stitches. The solid edge of the welt being brought into
contact with the upper while lapped over the edge of the channelled insole, receives
the stitches which connect it to those parts of the boot or shoe, and thus a firm
and water tight joint is formed, not liable to be interfered with either by, the
finishing processes, or by wear.
For sewing on the welt according to the present invention, a special attachment
or appliance is employed, the same being fixed by screws to the proper part of
the welting machine. This appliance serves as a guide for the welt strip, and
simultaneously as an opener for the slit, as the work is fed forward by the feed
during the piercing of welt, upper, and insole.
The appliance has, for this purpose, two vertically projecting splayed guides,
and an inner portion or tongue. Between the splayed guides passes the bent-up
portion of the welt strip, while the tongue enters the slit in the strip, and overlies
the horizontal portion of the strip.
For accurately guiding the welt, an adjustable pin is placed in the hollow of
the guide, which will form a firm rest for the welt strip.
The complete applianco is best fixed to the machine, so that the welt is brought
and held close against the piercing awl.
Among the advantages which this construction of welt offers, may be mentioned
the following:-
Comparatively cheap sole leather, in place of specially prepared soft leather,
may be employed for the strip to form the welt; the strip of leather used is.
much narrower than that formerly required, the vertical portion of the welt
being entirely done away with, yet without lessening the breadth of the wolt.
The new form of welt facilitates its application to the upper and insole.

page_text: The usual pressing up and hammering of the angle of the welt is done away
with, and the welt concealing the stitches which join it to the insole, lies flat.
The seam being hidden in the welt, the stitches are protected, and cannot be
damaged by friction from the outer sole; in fact, the outer sole may be com-
pletely worn away without the scam being in the least injured, and this advantage
is of great importance in repairs and suleing by machinery.
The trimming of the welt, to improve its appearance, is not necessary with
the present construction.
The lock-stitch sewing is more easily effected with the new welt, because this
latter lies close against the upper, and fat and firm against the outer sole, thereby
ensuring a better and a firm water-tight joint. Furthermore, the new welt is
sewn on from the outside, so that there is no possibility of the welt being torn off.
Dated this 30th day of November 1897.
NEWTON & SON,
Agents for the Applicant.
An Improved Sewing Machine Attachment for use in the
Manufacture of Welted Boots and Shoes.
I, PHILIP ARTHUR NEWTON, of the Office for Patents, 6, Bream's Buildings,
Chancery Lane, in the County of London, Patent Agent, do hereby declare the
nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
This invention relates to an improved apparatus to be used in the sewing
machine for uniting the welt with the upper and insole by an horizontal seam.
For uniting the welt with the upper and insole in the said manner, the welt,
formed of a strip of leather, as shown in the accompanying drawing, at Fig. 1,
is partially split by a sideway incision or cut, as is to be seen at Fig. 2. There
will remain a solid portion, a, through which the needle carries the thread and
through the upper and the insole in a horizontal direction.
For this sewing operation, it is necessary to guide forward the split welt and
open it, as indicated at Fig. 3. For this purpose, the apparatus shewn at Fig. 4
in side view, and at Fig. 5 in plan view, and constituting the subject matter of
the present invention, is employed.
This apparatus is to be fixed by its bracket e in a suitable position on the frame
of the sewing machine for guiding the welt-atrip, and at the same time opening
the slit, as the work is moved forward by the feed, to effect the piercing of welt,
The bracket carries two bars, one outer bar, m, and one
upper, and insole.
inner bar, n. Botween these two bars, there is a space of the shape of the split
welt in cross section, so that this welt, in its bent-up form (as indicated at Figs. 3,
4, and 5), may be introduced therein, and will be guided and carried along in
this guide-slit when traversing with the upper and insole. The inner end of the
bar n, looking towards the welt, is formed in the shape of a tongue o, which
takes into the depth of the welt's slit, and overlies the horizontal portion of the
strip, thus allowing free entrance for the needle into such depth.
For some purposes, it may be better to accurately guide the horizontal portion
of the welt by means of an adjustable shoulder. For such purpose, a wire or
piece
of metal (q), bent into an angle, is provided, the one end taking into the
horizontal part of the guiding slit, whereas the other end is adjustably fixed to
the bracket by means of a clamp r and screw 8. Thus, the piece may be
adjusted between the bars, to offer a support for the front edge of the welt.

page_text: The apparatus is preferably fixed to the sewing machine's framing, so as to
open out and guide the welt as near as possible to the stitching needle.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, as communicated to
me from abroad, I declare that what I claim is:-
The apparatus above described for opening and guiding the split welt strip,
characterised by an outer guide bar m and an inner guide bar n, terminating in
a tongue o, which together form a guide that surrounds and opens out the split
welt, as it passes to the sewing instruments.
Dated this 25th day of July 1898.
NEWTON & SON,
Agents for the Applicant.