IMPROVEMENTS IN BINDING FOR GARMENTS
Year: 1887

page_text: I, RAPHAEL SOLOMAN GREEN, of Philadelphia, State of Pennsylvania, U.S.A.,
Tailor, do hereby declare the nature of my invention for IMPROVEMENTS IN BINDING
FOR GARMENTS and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
My invention has reference to bindings for garments; and consists in an improved
binding and a method for felling the binding material to the fabric and otherwise
forming the binding, all of which is fully set forth in the following specification and
shown in the accompanying drawings which form part thereof.
Heretofore in binding garments it was customary to sew the binding on entirely by
hand or partly by hand and partly by machine, but where machine sewing was resorted
to it was wholly in straight sewing and the binding was laid over the edge of the
garment and the other or free edge was felled by hand. In the finer class of garments
the felled edge which was perforined by hand was placed upon the outer face of the
garment as it gave an extra finish owing to the stitches being practically invisible, but
the operation of hand sewing was very laborious and even with the best sewers the
stitching was more or less uneven.
I have found that the same result may be attained with a greater perfection and
finish through the application of a sewing machine, and in carrying out the method
of forming the binding I proceed as follows:-The binding be it silk or other material,
is laid faced downward against the garment and close to the edge to be bound and the
edge of the said binding next to the edge of the garment is then secured by a series of
zig zag stitches on a sewing machine (of the button-hole class) one of which stitches
passes through the edge of the binding and the fabric to which it is to be secured and
the next stitch through the fabric alone but close to the edge of the binding material
and so on alternately. When this is accomplished the binding may be turned over
the edge of the garment to be bound and secured along its other or free edge; or if
desired one edge of the binding may be first secured by a line of stitches whether
straight or zig zag and after being turned over the free edge may be.secured upon the
outer side by a line of zig zag stitches such as above specified; or in the case of
sleeves or where the binding is to lie flat upon the garment the two free edges thereof
may be machine felled in the manner specified above.

page_text: of a garment.
Fig. 2 is a plan view showing the first stitches in forming the binding.
Fig. 3 is a cross section on line ex.
Fig. 4 is a cross section on line y y.
Fig. 5 is a cross section showing how the binding may be secured flat upon the
garment.
Fig. 6 is a perspective view showing a modified method of forming the binding, and
Fig. 7 is a perspective view showing the old method of forming a hand felled
binding.
A is the fabric the free edges H of which are to be bound and B is the binding
material. In binding as shown in Fig. 4 the binding material B is laid face downward
upon the fabric A and close and parallel to the free edge Hand is then secured thereto
by a line of zig zag stitches C, the alternate stitch B passing through the edge of
the binding material next to the free edge H and also through the fabric A, and the
alternate stitches E passing only through the fabric A but close to the edge of the
binding B.
When the binding is now turned over the free edge thereof is held
between the two rows of stitches D and E and cannot drag or in the least expose the
said stitches. The free edge of the binding material is drawn under the fabric and
then secured by a line of stitches F formed by hand but being upon the underside of
the garment are not seen and as much care in sewing is not required as with the outer
row of stitches C; or if desired the stitches F may be made by a machine as shown
at I Fig. 6 in which case it would be advisable to leave the felled stitches upon the
inner face of the garment, the particular finish of the binding outside of the felled
seam being of secondary importance to my invention. In the case of flat bindings
as shown in Fig. 5 both of the free edges of the binding B are secured to the fabric A
by a zig zag line of stitches (and in practice thesc zig zag line of stitches being so
nearly straight they are practically invisible and give the highest finish to the garment.
The essential feature of the invention lies in the fact that the zig zag stitches
alternately secure the free edge of the binding to the fabric and pass through the
fabric alone but close to the free edge of said binding. This performs two functions
viz prevents any dragging and confines the free edge of the binding material
between two rows of stitches and yet allows the binding to completely turn over to
cover or confine the zig zag portion of said row of stitches enabling the binding to
lie flat upon the fabric a feature which has heretofore been accomplished in hand
work alone.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my invention, and
in what manner the same is. to be perforined, I declare that what I claim is :-
1st. The method of binding garments which consists of stitching the binding
material. face down upon the fabric to be bound and near its free edge by a series of
zig zag stitches, some of which pass through the binding material and the fabric to
be bound and some through the fabric alone but close to the binding; then turning
over the binding material to bring its face up and to hide the zig zag stitches and
exposing a line of short parallel stitches at right angles to the edge of the binding
and then turning the binding over the edge of the material to be bound and securing
it upon the under side thereof.
2nd. The method of binding garments which consists in placing the binding
material upon the fabric to be bound and securing it thereto by a line of zig zag
stitches in which the stitches pass alternately through the edge of the binding material
and fabric, and through the fabric alone close to the edge of the binding material, and
then turning the free edge of the binding over the edge of the material to be bound
and uniting the said free edge of the binding to the under or back side of the material
to be bound by a line of stitches, in which the edge of the binding material which is
turned over the back is caused to cover the line of stitches used to attach the front
edge of the binding to the fabric and pass entirely through the latter.

page_text: 3rd. The method of binding garments which consists of stitching the binding
material face down upon the fabric to be bound and securing it thereto by a zig
zag line of stitches in which some of the stitches pass through the binding material
and fabric to be bound and some through the fabric alone but close to the binding
material, then turning the binding face upward and bending the free edge thereof
over the edge of the material to be bound bringing the edge of the binding substantially
over the line of said zig zag stitches which appear on the under side of the material
to be bound and uniting said free edge of the binding to the back side of the material
to be bound by a line of stitches whereby the said line of zig zag stitches upon the
back are in effect made invisible.
4th. The fabric A in combination with the binding material B having its edge
secured to the fabric by a line of zig zag machine stitches C composed of stitches D
and E the former of which pass through the edge of the binding material and fabric
and the latter of which pass through the fabric alone but close to the binding material.
5th. The fabric A in combination with the binding material B having its edge
secured to the fabric by a line of zig zag machine stitches C composed of stitches 1)
and E the former of which pass through the edge of the binding material and fabric
and the latter of which pass through the fabric alone but close to the binding material
the said binding material being turned over the edge of the fabric and the free edge
secured thereto by a row of stitches.