IMPROVEMENTS IN JACQUARD APPARATUS USED IN WEAVING
Year: 1876

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Bristow Hunt, of Serle Street, Lincoln's Inn, in the
County of Middlesex, Gentleman, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN
JACQUARD APPARATUS USED IN WEAVING." A communication from abroad.
by Ferdinand Adolphe Planchon, of Paris, France.
ealed the 5th May 1876, and dated the 16th February 1876.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Bristow Hunt at the Office
of the Commissioners of Patents on the 16th February 1876.
BRISTOW HUNT, of Serle Street, Lincoln's Inn, in the County of Middlesex,
Gentleman. "IMPROVEMENTS IN JACQUARD APPARATUS USED IN WEAVING." (A
communication from abroad by Ferdinand Adolphe Planchon, of Paris, France).
This Invention consists of improvements in the arrangement of the jacquard
machine, by which improvements the following results are obtained-
First. Great economy in the workmanship, in the material employed, and in the
cards.
Second. Rapidity of work.
Third. Suppression of the binding warp in tapestry weaving.
Fourth. Facility and improvement in the work even of inexperienced operatives.
The improvements comprise,
First. A machine with three grids.
Second. Thirty hooks named "drawing out hooks."
Third. A box called the "puppet box."
Fourth. A reading frame for reading the designs.
Fifth. A mounting called compound mounting.
Sixth. The rotation of the cards on the cylinder.
Three-grid Machine.-There are two grids serving to raise the mass of hooks,
made as ordinarily with movable bars. A third grid with fixed bars is also
employed to raise a fixed number only of the hooks. This grid has its bars parallel
to the former, and is placed about three or four inches higher. The 'bars of this
grid are fixed in the front compartment of the box, and are solely appropriated to
drawing out the books of the "puppets" herein-after referred to.
There are thirty hooks called "drawing out hooks" longer than the 'mass of the

page_text: hooks with which the machine is provided, and these like the others rest on the
neck band board and are put into action by the third grid. To these hooks are
tied up or secured the forks;
;corresponding with the puppets contained in the
puppet box.
The puppets are thirty in number; they each correspond to one of the drawing-
out hooks of the third grid. These puppets are of iron and are painted white, and
each carries on its face a number. They are arranged in six rows of five puppets
each, only the front row of which bearing the numbers 5, 0, 5, 0, 5, 0, is visible to
the operative until they are disengaged from the box which contains them. The first
transverse row on the left bears the numbers 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, the second row the
numbers 6, 7, 8, 9, 0, the third and fifth the same as the first, and the fourth and
sixth the same as the second. By the aid of this combination an unlimited number
of shales may be used without paying very great attention to the means of dis-
tinguishing the passage of the various colours which compose the design to be
executed. The puppet box has neither bottom nor cover, the front side next to the
operative is lower than the back and the sides are bevilled.
Reading Frame for Reading the Designs.-The first thirty cords of the reading
frame at the left of the reader (corresponding in reality to the last cords of the
machine) are divided into six sections, of five cords each. About six or seven inches
above the "lease rods" (on which the operative effects the reading of the pattern)
is applied a small wooden apparatus, composed of six compartiments or boxes. The
first thirty coids of the reading frame are enclosed by groups of five cords in the
six compartiments above nained, as follows:-The first compartment containing the
first five cords of the reading frame, that is to say, the first section, the second com-
partment, contains the five cords forming the second section, and soon to the sixth
and last section. The workman having to read a colour bearing: the Number 48,
takes on the lease rods the fourth cord of the first compartment and the third cord
of the second compartment, he thus draws out the Number 48.
«
Compound Mounting."-This-mounting is formed of two groups, with this
difference, that a certain number of the cords of the first group is amalgamated
with a like number of the cords of the second group. This amalgamation taking
place at the centre of the mounting by breaking the repetition allows of the exc-
cution of any design on the whole width of the body of the machine. At the centre
of the machine and of the "cumber board "the cords of the first and second groups
amalgamate and work simultaneously.
The combination of this mounting consists,-
Firstly. In tieing u two couplings to the neck band.
Secondly. In mounting a first group followed (say by 500 cords).
Thirdly. In mounting the second set by commencing the mounting on the last
hundred cords of the first group in such a manner that in this part of the mounting
there are two cords to each hole of the "cumber board." The first cord of the
second group is passed with the four hundred and first cord of the first set, the
second cord with the four hundred and second, the third with the four hundred and
third, and so on, following the same order.
The rotation of the cards is as follows:-All the cards composing one round or
pattern are caused to pass over the cylinder of the machine; then they are caused
to roll back as far as the last, so that the first card of this round comes back to take
its place at its point of departure.
After one movement of the mechanism. to change the lift the same round of cards
is drawn over the cylinder, it again commences its forward rotation as before.
If the passage of the round of cards over the cylinder is required four times then
they will have to be rolled back four times. If the round of cards is only required to
pass twice, then they will only require to be rolled back twice, and after the second
time will give place to the second round, and so on for the other rounds which
follow. In any case, the cards should not perform their retrograde rotary motion
as is practised in the known systems. This advance of the cards with continuous
rollings back draws out the colours in such an order of work that they become

page_text: naturally hooked together as the weaving proceeds without the workman having
to trouble himself about their crossing.
Gentleman. "IMPROVEMENTS IN JACQUARD APPARATUS USED IN WEAVING.”
communication from abroad by Ferdinand Adolphe Planchon, of Paris, France.)
This Invention consists of improvements in the arrangement of the jacquard
machine, by which improvements the following results are obtained :-
First. Great economy in workmanship, in the material employed, and in the
cards.
Second. Rapidity of work.
Third. Suppression of the binding warp in tapestry weaving.
Fourth. Facility and perfection in the work, even when performed by inex-
perienced operatives.
The improvements comprise,
First. A machine with three grids.
Second. Thirty hooks, named drawing-out hooks.
Third. A box called the puppet box.
Fourth. A reading frame for reading the designs.
Fifth. A mounting called "compound mounting."
Sixth. An improved method of reading the design.
Seventh. The rotation of the cards on the cylinder.
The Grid Machine (Figures 1, 2).-There are two grids A serving to raise the
mass of hooks E made as ordinarily with movable bars. A thiril grid B with fixed
bars is also employed to raise a fixed number F only of the hooks; this grid B has
its bars parallel to those of the grid A, and is placed about three or four inches
higher. The bars are fixed, as shown, in the front compartment of the box C, and
are solely appropriated to drawing out the hooks of the puppets hereafter referred
to. C, C, C, C, represents the box of the mechanism, and D (Figure 2) is one of
the lateral parts of the box detached to show the arrangements of the grids.
The Drawing-out Hooks (Figures 1, 2).-There are thirty hooks F, called
"drawing-out hooks," of larger dimensions than the mass of the hooks E with which
the machine C is provided, and these, like the others rest on the neck band board,
and are put into action by the third grid B. To these hooks are tied up or secured
the forks corresponding to the puppets contained in the puppet box.
Puppet Box (Figures 3 to 10). The puppets are thirty in number; they each
correspond to one of the drawing-out hooks F of the third grid B. These puppets
shown in Figure 3 are made of iron of, say, one-twelfth of an inch thick, and are
painted white, and each carries on its painted face a number. They are arranged in
six rows of five puppets, as seen in the Drawing. The first row only, bearing the
numbers 5,0, 5,0, 5,0, (Figure 4), is visible to the operative when they are disengaged
or raised up from the box which contains them. The first transverse row to the
left of Figure 1 bears the numbers 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, the second row the numbers 6, 7, 8,
9, 0, the third the same as the first, and the fourth the same as the second, and the
fifth and sixth the same as the first and second.
Figure 3 represents the puppets in the order assigned to them in the box,
Figure 5.
Figure 6 is a side view of the puppets.
Figures 7, 8, shew their operation when set in action by the drawing-out hooks F.
Figure 9 represents the second puppet of the second row, and the fourth of the

page_text: third set in action to draw out the number 74, thus indicating to the operative that
he has to work the colour bearing this number.
Figure 7 represents the first puppet of the first row set in action to draw out the
number 1.
Figure 8 represents the fifth puppet of the third row, the fifth of the fourth, and
the second of the fifth set in action to draw out the number 502. By aid of this
combination an unlimited number of shades may be used without paying very great
attention to the means of distinguishing, the passage of the various colours which
compose the designs to be executed..
Figure 5 represents the puppet box, which has neither bottom or cover. The
side next to the operative is lower than the back, and the sides are bevilled.
Figure 9 shows the box in action, with number 74 only drawn out by the hook.
Figure 10 is a side view of the same.
Reading Frame for Reading the Designs (Figure 11).-The first thirty cords A, A,
of the reading frame at the left of the reader, corresponding in reality to the last
cords of the machine, are divided into six sections of five. cords each. About six or
ight inches above the lease rods C, C, (on which the operative effects the reading
of the pattern) is applied a small wooden apparatus B composed of six compart-
ments or boxes. The first thirty cords of the reading frame are enclosed in groups
of five cords in the six compartments above named as follows:-The first compart-
ment contains the first five cords of the reading frame, that is to say, the first,
section marked number 1; the second compartment contains the five cords forming
the second section marked number 2, and so on to the sixth and last section marked
number 6. In short, the five cords of the first compartment correspond with the
first cross row of puppets contained in puppet box, and bearing the numbers
1, 2, 3, 4, 5, (see Figure 3). The five cords of the second compartment correspond
with the second row of puppets numbered 6, 7, 8, 9, 0; the five cords of the third
compartment correspond with the numbers 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and so on, in the same order
as for the first two (as seen in Figure 3). The workman having to read a colour
bearing the number 48 takes on the lease rods the fourth cord of the first compart-
ment, and the third cord of the second compartment; he thus draws out, the number
48. The reading frame is represented at D, D.
Compound Mounting (Figure 12).-This compound mounting is formed of two
groups, with this differenco, that a certain number of the cords of the first group is
amalgamated with a like number of the cords of the second group. This amalga-
mation taking place at the centre of the mounting by breaking the repetition allows
of the execution of any design on the whole width of the body of the loom. The
black lines of Figure 12 represent the cords forming the first group, and the red
lines those of the second group. At the centre of the machine and of the "cumber
board" the cords of the first and second group amalgamate and work simul-
taneously.
The combination of this mounting consists,-
First. In tying up two couplings to the neck band.
Second. In mounting a first group followed (say) by 500 cords.
Third. Mounting the second set by commencing the mounting on the last hundred
cords of the first group in such a manner that in this part of the mounting there
are two. cords to each hole of the "cumber board." The first cord of the second
group is passed with the four hundred and first cord of the first set; the second
cord with the four hundred and second; the third with the four hundred and third,
and so on, following the same order as the first group up to the last cord of the
second group.
<
"J
Method of Reading the Designs.-Figure 13 represcuts a design drawn upan
point paper. From the line A to the line B there are ninoty divisions, each division
of the design representing ten threads of the warp. In reading the design, there-
fore, the reader takes ten threads of the reading frame for each division of the
design. The line C, C, D, D, indicate that part of tho design corresponding to the
amalgamated part of the "tie up," which is composed of one hundred double cords.

page_text: The division of the design occurs at this part. The place of this division or section
is not any particular cord, it may be on any one of the hundred amalgamated cords.
Moreover, at each stroke it may be varied, and this is the advantage of this mode
of reading as it dispenses with the necessity of doubling the cords for one and the
same colour. The pattern of this design reduced to, one-tenth to facilitate its demon-
stration would require for its reproduction on the fabric by the ordinary system
nine hundred hooks.
"
By means of the method of reading just explained, and by the above described
arrangement of the "tie up or mounting, this pattern can be executed on a single
machine of four hundred hooks, and the cords, instead of being read and perforated
on a division of 900, will be read and perforated on a single division of 400 hooks.
The saving of cords, consequently, will be the difference in price between 400 and
900. It will be readily understood that if a 300 hook machine were to be sub-
stituted for one of 400 a still further economy would be effected. In a word, how-
ever small would be the number of hooks large patterns without repetitions may,
be executed, whatever also may be the number of threads of the drawing. Before
proceeding to read the design an indicative number must be placed upon each of
the different colours of which it is composed. These numbers as the weaving.
proceeds will issue from the puppet box to indicate to the workman the spool or
shuttle bearing with its number the colour which he should figure. For example,
to read (say) the thirtieth stroke of the design marked E, E, I read on the first
("embarre") the ground of the pattern, the colour of which bears the number 12,
and for each color or number which follows on the same stroke I take a new
("embarre"). I find on this shoot the following colours (green, yellow, pale yellow,
dark yellow, dark green) which I indicate by their respective numbers, and I there-
fore read 12, 10, 7, 6, 8, 11, taking up for each number the number of cords,
indicated by the design. This last number (11) corresponds to a dark green placed
in the amalgamated part of the mounting; now on this shoot it is that from the
last thread of this dark green that the division of the pattern commences. I have,
therefore, for this reading, six colours, including that of the ground, that is to say,
six cords.
For reading the second division of the design the reader returns to the first cord of
his reading frame, and knowing that the colours which he has just read up to the
dark green, bearing the number 11, have reached the fiftieth thread of the amalga-
mated part he leaves at the commencement fifty threads blank, which have been
employed by the reading of the first division of the design, and commencing at the
fifty-first he reads the second division, the first portion of which is a pale rose, the
second a dark rose, and so on, and thus the reading of the colours by the numbers is
effected.
Proceeding in the same order and upon the same principle the reading of the
second division will give the numbers 3, 5, 4, 1, 12, that is to say, five colours, in-
cluding the ground or five cards. Finally, on this stroke of the design, the first
division gives six cards, and the second five, in all eleven cards read and perforated
on a division of 400; if this reading had been effected in the ordinary manner it
would have given eleven cards, but on a division of 900.
Rotation of the Cards.-The rotation of the cards is as follows:-All the cards
composing one round are caused to pass over the cylinder of the machine; then
they are caused to roll back as far as the last, so that the first card of this round
comes back to take its place at its starting point. After one movement of the
mechanism to change the lift the same round of cards is drawn over the cylinder,
it again commences its forward rotation as before. If the passage of the round of
cards over the cylinder is required four times, then they have to be rolled back four
times. If the round of cards is only required to pass twice, then they will only
require to be rolled back twice, and after the second time will give place to the
second round, and so on for the other rounds which follow. In any case the cards
should not perform their retrograde motion as is practised in the known systems.
This advance of the cards, with continuous rollings back, draw out the colours in

page_text: such an order of working that they become naturally hooked together as the
weaving proceeds without the workman having to trouble himself about their
crossing.
Perforating and Lacing the Cards.-The cards should be perforated and laced in
the order followed by the reading of the design above described, although the
design drawn in two divisions may be read in two parts, the number of cards
which form these two divisions will only form a single shoot, which will be wovon
according to the order indicated by the design.
All the cards of the second divisions of the design (produced by the reading of
the colours contained in that part) will be laid immediately following the cards of
the first division.
If it be desired to execute a pattern comprising a greater number of threads than
that shown at Figure 13 (1200 for example) with a machine of 500 hooks. The
mounting of the loom must be arranged in three groups instead of two; in this case
the last cords of the second group are amalgamated with the first cords of the third
group, and in the order above indicated. It will be the same for any number of
groups. For the reading of three groups the design must be divided into three
parts, and for reading the amalgamated part comprised between the second and third
group the reader operates in the same manner as for the reading of the first group.
The cards of the third group will be laced immediately following those of the
second group, thus the number of cards of the three groups will only form a single
round will be woven like an ordinary round of figure weaving.
Method of Obtaining by the same Process Fabrics called "Figured" "Shot"
Fabrics. By the aid of the mounting and reading of the pattern in the manner
described a pattern without repetition comprising 900, 1000, 1200, or more threads
can be obtained with a 400 or 500 hook machine, but by proceeding according to
the following example:-Suppose two groups of 500 cords, each of which. 100 are
amalgamated, the draft of the design is divided into two parts in such a manner
that these 100 cords to be amalgamated shall be comprised in the second division
of the design, that is to say, in the second group. The reader will then read the
first division as far as the first cord of the amalgamated part; and for reading the
second division he will commence at the first cord of the amalgamated part up to
the last cord of the design. The first division will be composed of 400 cords and
the second of 500. The cards will be perforated as usual, but they will be laced in
a different order of classification. To furnish an example of the order in which the
lacing must be effected, let us take the first eight perforated cards, and let us give
to each of them a number in the order of perforation, which is also the ordinary
order of lacing, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8. To weave a figured fabric these cards will be
laced in the following order-1, 2, 4, 3, 5, 6, 8, 7; and always in the same order
whatever may be the number of cards composing the pattern.
To weave a "shot" pattern in two colours the lacing will follow a different order,
as the following example shows:-Supposing it be required to weave a fabric of
which the pattern shall be blue and the ground white, the first sixteen cards as
well as those follow will be amalgamated by lacing in the following order:
1, 2, 3, 4, 6, 5, 8, 7, 9, 10, 11, 12, 14, 13, 16, 15. If the number of "shot" colors
be three, four, or five, the cords must be amalgamated always according to the same
principle, but necessarily in proportion to the number of colours.
For the weaving of "figured" and "shot" fabrics, groups following each other
without amalgamated parts may be employed, but the classification of the cords in
the order indicated is indispensable.
Apparatus for Picking up (accrochage) and Lowering (rabat) the Threads to
Effect the Passage of the Weft over several Groups without Repetition--This
result is obtained by the aid of a system or apparatus composed of two elements,
one of these arranged behind the slay and above the warp is intended, whilst one
group is in movement, to keep the threads of the other group lowered. It is repre-
sented at Figures 14, 15, and 16. The other apparatus, Figure 17, situated at the
back of the cumber board against the harness is intended whilst one group is being

page_text: raised to keep the threads of the other group raised also. By the aid of this com-
bination any fabric may be woven without repetition of the design whatever may
be its size and the number of groups necessary for its execution.
Figure 14 represents a three-group apparatus intended to keep the threads
lowered, being a face view and out of action. Figure 15 shows a side view of
the same.
Figure 10 represents the same apparatus put in movement by the passage (over
the cylinder of the jacquard machine) of the cards of the first two groups, indi-
cated at A and B ; the third group at C being out of action, its knives or blades
are only seen in end view. The knives of this apparatus are put in motion either
by the inachine or by other means.
Figure 17 represents the apparatus for picking up the mails arranged for two
groups. A represents the apparatus of the first group in motion and holding the
mails suspended; B is the apparatus of the second group at rest.
Having now described the nature and object of the said Invention for "Im-
provements in Jacquard Apparatus Used in Weaving," together with the manner in
which the same is to be or may be performed or carried into practical effect, I
would remark in conclusion, that I claim as the Invention communicated to me by
the above-named Ferdinand Adolphe Planchon,―
Firstly. The application to the jacquard machine of third grid with fixed knives.
Secondly. The construction and arrangement of the " puppet box" and its
adjuncts for the purpose of calling for or indicating the colours by means of
numbers.
Thirdly. The amalgamated mounting of the harness as described.
Fourthly. The mode described of reading the patterns.
Fifthly. The mode of arranging, lacing, and working the cards as described.
Sixthly. The apparatus for picking up and lowering the warp threads.
Seventhly. The mode of weaving "figured" and "shot" fabrics, all substantially
as herein-before described and illustrated by the Drawings annexed.
In witness whereof, I, the said Bristow Hunt, have hereunto set my hand and
seal, this Thirtieth day of June, in the year of our Lord One thousand
eight hundred and seventy-six.
BRISTOW HUNT. (L.S.)

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