IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES. AND IN SEWING OR EMBROIDERING
Year: 1865

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Isaac Merritt Singer, of New York, in the United
States of America, but now residing at the Euston Hotel, Euston
Square, in the County of Middlesex, Gentleman, for the Invention
of "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES. AND IN SEWING OR EMBROIDERING."
Sealed the 27th March 1866, and dated the 1st December 1865.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Isaac Merritt Singer at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on
the 1st December 1865.
I, ISAAC MERRITT SINGER, of New York, in the United States of
America, but now residing at the Euston Hotel, Euston Square, in the
County of Middlesex, Gentlemen, do hereby declare the nature of the
said Invention for. "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES, AND IN SEWING OR
EMBROIDERING," to be as follows:-
My improvements relate principally to mechanism for producing the
interlocked or shuttle stitch, and are more particularly adapted for sewing
leather.
My Invention consists, firstly, in placing at the lower end of a recipro-
cating bar (working in place of the ordinary needle carrier) a rocking
clamp, which latter contains an awl or piercer, and a thin piece of metal
of about the same width as the awl, with its lower end hollowed out or
notched to nearly the depth of the thickness of the thread which is to be.

page_text: forced by it through the hole previously made by the awl or piercer, the
sides of the said instrument being also grooved like the body of an ordi-
nary leather needle. These two instruments, the awl and the hollow-ended
piece of metal (which I shall herein-after call the "pusher"), are fixed in
the rocking clamp at right angles to each other, so that when the awl is in
a perpendicular position so as to pierce the material to be sewn, the
"pusher" will be horizontal, but when the reciprocating bar which carries
the rocking clamp has risen about half the extent of its stroke it brings
the latter into contact with a stop or projection, which causes it to rock or
turn a quarter of a revolution so as to bring the "pusher" perpendicular
exactly in the position previously occupied by the awl, so that as the
reciprocating bar descends again the "pusher" will force the thread (which
has meanwhile been laid across the hole) through the hole previously made
or pierced in the material by the awl. And when the reciprocating bar
rises the second time, the awl which had assumed a horizontal position at
right angles to the "pusher" will be brought into a perpendicular position
again as at first, the feed or forward movement of the material having taken
place immediately after the withdrawal of the "pusher." This alternate
changing of the position of the awl and the "pusher" is effected by the
vibrating clamp coming into contact (during the ascent of the reciprocating
bar) with a vibrating stop, which causes the said clamp to turn about one
quarter of a revolution, the clamp being secured in its position during the
remainder of its motion by a spring falling into a notch in the periphery of
the clamp, or by any other suitable device. The thread on the upper side
of the material, or that next to the "pusher," is spread out over the surface
by means of two fingers, which fingers are actuated by any suitable
mechanical movement in such a manner as to lay a portion of the thread
directly, over the hole or aperture made by the awl, so that when the
"pusher" descends through the aperture and through the material carry-
ing the thread with it, there will be sufficient "slack" formed on each. side
of the "pusher" to prevent its drawing the thread tight upon the surface of
the material. Upon the under side of the material (that is, on the shuttle
side,) there is a spring placed in such a position that the: "pusher" after
passing through the material will come in contact with it and force it
down about a quarter of an inch (more or less), so that when the
"pusher" retreats the spring will follow it, holding the thread close
against the notched end of the "pusher," thus forming a loop for the shuttle
to enter. With the previously described combination I intend to use
an oscillating; shuttle similar to that described in the Specifications of

page_text: former Letters Patent granted 'to me, and dated respectively the Sixth day
of May One thousand eight hundred and sixty-three, No. 1132, and the
Eighth day of September One thousand eight hundred and sixty-four;
No. 2196.
"
My Invention relates, secondly, to holding and driving the said oscil-
lating shuttle, and consists in coupling the holder which contains the
driver on the end of the oscillating shaft, so that the shuttle may be.
adjusted to enter the loop sooner or later without affecting the relative
position of the oscillating shaft and the lift cam which it carries. And
also in having the side centre of the shuttle resting against the driver
which contains the outlet or opening for the shuttle thread, and an adjust-
able wedge placed under the shuttle, in order to increase or diminish the
space for the passage of the thread according to the thickness of the
thread employed. And in placing a shield on the shuttle driver so as to
touch the needle below the eye and keep it back in a line with the face of
the shuttle, so that the point of the shuttle cannot come into contact with
the needle.
A further improvement consists in causing the shuttle to oscillate in a
perpendicular direction and transverse to or across the arm; the shuttle
being placed between the line of the needle and the end of the arm, so as'
to bring the line of the needle to within the thickness of the shuttle from
the end of the arm; or thereabouts.
1.
My Invention consists, thirdly, of an independent "take-up" to act both
ways, that is, to give "slack" for the passage of the needle down through the:
goods and continue the slack thread until the shuttle is partly through the
loop, and then 'to oppose the passage of the shuttle so as to lay' the thread
into or on the top surface of the goods or material; this is effected by a
double-acting spring which acts from the two extremes towards the
midway position of the "take-up," or two springs would answer the same
purpose.
My Invention consists, fourthly, in having a revolving or turning, ring
round the " throat" (or aperture through which the needle passes), pre-
senting to the work or material a sharp V-shaped edge, and in having a
part of the serrated surface which surrounds the throat so formed as to be
attached and detached at will by the operator for the convenience of
hemming, binding, and so forth.
'
1
My Invention relates, fifthly, to an improved feed motion for sewing
machines which will feed the material in any direction from the needle
without stopping the machine, and may be attached to any sewing

page_text: "
" arm or
machine, being more especially applicable to what are known as
"sleeve" machines used for sleeves or tubular work, as the operator can
feed in all directions and sew any figures on such work without turning
the work or removing it from the machine.
This improved feed motion is constructed in the following manner :-
The "feed dog" is a long bar with a roughened surface at one end, the
other end being forked so as to embrace a round pin on which it can
slide or move. Near the roughened end of the "feed dog" is a stud
pin which works into and through a slot in a reciprocating oscillating
guide plate, and also through a slot in a turning guide plate. The
oscillating guide plate is held in the end of and reciprocates with a
moying bar. On the other end of this moving bar is a stud which
works in a slot in a turning guide plate placed in the bed of the
machine near the back part of the same.
This last-mentioned guide
plate performs three distinct offices:-Firstly, it causes the moving bar
to move longitudinally when the cam on the driving shaft of the machine
moves the end of the bar which works the guide plate in a lateral
direction; secondly, it determines the length of the stitch; and thirdly,
it reverses the action of the feed. The oscillating guide plate on the end
of the moving bar is made to reciprocate in a right line with the latter.
When one side of the groove or slot in this guide plate comes into contact
with one side of the stud that is fixed in the said moving bar, it will
force the opposite side of the said stud against the opposite side of the
groove or slot in the turning guide plate (through which it also passes),
and thus it will cause the "feed dog" to move in any direction in which
the groove or slot in the second or turning guide plate is placed. For
instance if the operator wishes to feed directly from him the groove or
slot in the turning guide plate will be placed in that direction, whilst that
in the oscillating guide plate will cross the former at an angle of about 45
degrees (more or less. The end of the groove or slot which is opposite to
the right hand of the operator will be nearest to him, and the left hand end
of the said groove will be furthest from the operator. It will be evident
that by changing the relative positions or directions of the grooves or slots
in the several guide plates the operator can cause the "dog" to feed in any
other direction that may be required.
My improvements relate, sixthly, to a method of and mechanism for
embroidering, ornamenting, and covering the edges of fabrics for button
holes and the like, and may be used in combination with what is known
as the single thread or "tambour" stitch, or with what is known as the

page_text: shuttle or
Grover, Baker" stitch, or with any other well-known sewing
machine stitches. This part of my Invention consists, firstly, in laying
a thread or threads on the upper surface of the material in the form of the
figure 8 by means of fingers or other suitable and well known appliances
so that the descent of the needle or needles will fasten the said thread or
threads on the surface of the material. When two needles are used the
ornament produced will be similar to a series of figures of 8 connected
together at one end, that is to say, the threads will cross each other between
the needles passing entirely around each needle, and there will be two'
threads upon the surface to be fastened down to the material by each
stitch as the work progresses. But if one needle only be used the form
of the ornament will be similar to the figure that would be described
by a combination of a continuous circular and an advancing rectilinear
motion, being a series of coils, and each descent of the needle will enter
into one of these coils and fasten two threads to the surface of the
material.
A further improvement consists in laying a second coiled thread on
the under side of the material to be fastened thereto by the shuttle thread,.
so that both sides of the work will be ornamented precisely alike, that is:
to say, the needle first passes through the coil above the fabric, then
through the latter, and afterwards through the coil below the same.
The
Joop of the needle thread is then formed, and the shuttle with its thread
passes through this loop, and thus secures both coils, one on the surface
and the other on the under side of the fabric. By employing two needles
with this arrangement, one needle passing through the coils on the fabric,
and the other outside the edge of the same, a stitch over the edge of the
fabric very similar to the ordinary button-hole stitch will be produced.
A further improvement in ornamenting or embroidering is effected by
passing a thread with its bobbin entirely round the needle and its thread,
so that the needle on its descent will fasten down one side only of the coil
(thus formed) to the surface of the fabric. The ornament produced will
be in the form of a small helical coil laying on the surface of the material.
In order to cause the spool or bobbin to lay the ornamental thread which
it contains round the needle, there must be a rotating ring placed round
the needle carrier about an inch and a quarter (more or less) above the.
surface of the material to be ornamented, having a hole in the centre of
the said ring of a sufficient size to admit the lower end of the needle with
its carrier to pass freely through it: This rotating ring carries a spindle
affixed to its under side to hold the spool or bobbin which contains the

page_text: t
ornamental thread, allowing the same to turn freely on the said spindle.
The ring with its spool or bobbin will rotate entirely around the needle
and its thread at each and every stitch. The presser bar must be placed
far enough from the needle carrier to admit of the turning of the ring and
its bobbin. Or a loose bobbin may be placed so as to encircle the neck of
the rotating ring, so that the needle will pass not only through the latter
but also through the centre of the bobbin containing the thread, the
rotating ring being provided with a leading hole or guide through which
the thread passes. This ornamental thread may also be laid round the
needle and upon the surface of the fabric by means of a rotating hook, the
said hook rotating round the needle and its thread, the bobbin containing
the ornamental thread turning upon a stationary spindle in the same
manner as when the fingers are used; or an oscillating hook may be so
constructed as to perform the same operation. In using this arrangement
the needle is fixed in a small bracket or projection at the lower end of the
needle carrier with its grooved side inwards, the thread passing up. from
the eye through a hole in the bracket between the needle and the needle
bar, which prevents any deflection of the needle by the pull of the thread,
and at the same time carries the latter clear of the bearings in which the
needle bar works. If it be desired to work the needle still nearer to the
end of the arm the chamber of the machine is placed at the extreme end
of the latter, and the shuttle is placed on the inside of the chamber; the
needle in this instance is also fixed in a bracket, but with its grooved side
outwards, and the thread passes through a hole in the bracket outside the
needle.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Isaac Merritt Singer, in the Great Seal Patent Office.
on the 31st May 1866.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, ISAAC
MERRITT SINGER, of New York, in the United States of America, but
now residing at the Euston Hotel, Euston Square, in the County of
Middlesex, Gentleman, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the First day of December, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-five, in the twenty-ninth year of
Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and graut

page_text: unto me, the said Isaac Merritt Singer, Her special licence that I, the
said Isaac Merritt Singer, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or
such other's as I, the said 'Isaac Merritt Singer; my .executors, adminis-
trators, and assigns, should at any time agree with; and no others, from
time to time and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed,
should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United
Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of
Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS. IN SEWING MACHINES, AND IN SEWING
OR EMBROIDERING," upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said
Isaac Merritt Singer, my executors or administrators, by an instrument in
writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should par-
ticularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in
what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be
filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and
immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that 1, the said Isaac Merritt Singer, do hereby declare
the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement in writing, and on reference to the accompanying
Drawings, that is to say :-
My improvements relate principally to mechanism for producing the
interlocked or shuttle stitch, and are more particularly adapted for sewing
leather.
My Invention consists, firstly, in placing at the lower end of a recipro-
cating bar (working in place of the ordinary needle carrier) a rocking
clamp, which latter contains an awl or piercer, and a thin piece of metal of
about the same width as the awl, with its lower end hollowed out or
notched to nearly the depth of the thickness of the thread which is to be
forced by it through the hole préviously made by the awl or piercer, the
sides of the said instrument being also grooved like the body of an ordinary
leather needle. These two instruments, the awl and the hollow-ended piece
of metal (which I shall hereinafter call the "pusher"), are fixed in the rocking
clamp at right angles to each other, so that when the awl is in a perpen-
dicular position so as to pierce the material to be sewn, the "pusher" will
be horizontal; but when the reciprocating bar which carries the rocking
clamp has risen about half the extent of its stroke (or rather more), it
brings the latter into contact with a stop or projecting lever which causes
it to rock or turn a quarter of a revolution, so as to bring the "pusher "
perpendicular, exactly in the position previously occupied by the awl, so

page_text: that as the reciprocating bar descends again the "pusher" will force the
thread (which has meanwhile been laid across the hole,) through the hole
previously made or pierced in the material by the awl. And when the
reciprocating bar rises the second time the 'awl, which had assumed a
horizontal position at right angles to the "pusher," will be brought into a
perpendicular position again, as at first, the feed or forward movement of
the material having taken place immediately after the withdrawal of the
"pusher." This alternate changing of the position of the awl and the
'pusher" is effected by pins on the vibrating clamp coming into contact
(during the ascent of the reciprocating bar) with a vibrating stop or lever
which causes the said clamp to turn about one quarter of a revolution, the
clamp being secured in its position during the remainder of its motion by
a spring catch falling into a notch in the periphery of the clamp, or by any
other suitable device. The thread on the upper side of the material, or
that next to the "pusher," is spread out over the surface of the work by
means of two fingers, which fingers are actuated by any suitable mechanical
movement in such a manner as to lay a portion of the thread directly over
the hole or aperture made by the awl, so that when the "pusher" descends
through the aperture and through the material carrying the thread with it,
there will be sufficient "slack" formed on each side of the "pusher" to
prevent its drawing the thread tight upon the surface of the material.
Upon the under side of the material (that is, on the shuttle side,) there is
a spring placed in such a position that the "pusher," after passing through
the material, will come in contact with it and force it down about a
quarter of an inch (more or less), so that when the "pusher" retreats the
spring will follow it, holding the thread close against the notched end of
the pusher, thus forming a loop for the shuttle to enter. With the
previously described combination I intend to use an oscillating shuttle
similar to that described in the Specifications of former Letters Patent
granted to me, and dated respectively the Sixth day of May One thousand
eight hundred and sixty-three, No. 1132, and Eighth September One
thousand eight hundred and sixty-four, No. 2196.
My Invention relates, secondly, to holding and driving the said oscillating
shuttle, and consists in coupling the holder which contains the driver on to
the end of the oscillating shaft in such a manner that the shuttle may be
adjusted to enter the loop sooner or later without affecting the relative
position of the oscillating shaft and the lift cam which it carries (if a lift
cam be used), and also in having the side centre of the shuttle which
contains the outlet or opening for the shuttle thread resting against

page_text: the driver, and an adjustable wedge placed under the shuttle in order to
increase or diminish the space for the passage of the thread according to
the thickness of the thread employed; and in placing a shield on the
shuttle driver, when used with needle machines, so as to touch the needle
below the eye and keep it back in a line with the face of the shuttle, so
that the point of the shuttle cannot come into contact with the needle.
A further improvement in what are called arm or sleeve machines
consists in causing the shuttle to oscillate in a perpendicular direction and
transverse to or across the arm, the shuttle being placed between the line
of the needle and the end of the arm, so as to bring the line of the needle.
to within the thickness of the shuttle from the end of the arm, or there-
abouts: In using this arrangement the needle is fixed in a small bracket
or projection at the lower end of the needle carrier with its grooved side
inwards, the thread passing up from the eye through a hole in the bracket
between the needle and the needle bar, which prevents any deflection of
the needle by the pull of the thread, and at the same time carries the
latter clear of the bearings in which the needle bar works. If it be desired
to work the needle still nearer to the end of the arm, the chamber of the
machine is placed at the extreme end of the latter, and the shuttle is placed
on the inside of the chamber. The needle in this instance is also fixed in
a bracket, but with its grooved side outwards, and the thread passes through
a hole in the bracket outside the needle.
My Invention consists, thirdly, of an independent "take-up" to act
both ways; that is, to give "slack" for the passage of the needle down
through the goods and continue the slack thread until the shuttle is partly
through the loop, and then to oppose the passage of the shuttle so as to
lay the thread into or on the top. surface of the goods or material. This
is effected by a double-acting spring which acts from the two extremes
towards the mid-way position of the "take-up," that is to say, the spring is
so formed that it is at rest when the take-up lever is mid-way in its course,
but it opposes the motion of the latter equally in both directions; or two
springs would answer the same purpose.
My Invention consists, fourthly, in having a revolving or turning ring
round the "throat" (or aperture through which the needle passes), pre-
senting to the work or material a sharp V-shaped edge, and in having a
part of the serrated surface which surrounds the throat so formed as to be
attached and detached at will by the operator for the convenience of
hemming, binding, and so forth.
My Invention relates, fifthly, to an improved feed motion for sewing

page_text: machines, which will feed the material in any direction from, the needle
without stopping the machine, and may be attached to any sewing machine,
being more especially applicable to what are known as "arm" or "sleeve"
machines; used for sleeves or tubular work, as the operator can feed in all
directions and sew any figures on such work without turning the work or
removing it from the machine. This improved feed motion is constructed
in the following manner:-The "feed dog" is a long bar with a roughened
surface at one end, the other end being forked so as to embrace a round
pin on which it can slide or move. Near the roughened end of the
"feed dog" is a stud pin which works into and through a slot in a recipro
cating oscillating guide plate, and also through a slot in a turning guide
plate. The oscillating guide plate is held in the end of and reciprocates
with a moving bar. On the other end of this moving bar is a stud, which
works in a slot in a turning guide plate placed in the bed of the machine
near the back part of the same. This last-mentioned guide plate performs
three distinct offices; firstly, it causes the moving bar to move longitu-
dinally when the cam on the driving shaft of the machine moves the end
of the bar which works in the guide plate in a lateral direction; secondly,
it determines the length, of: the. stitch; and, thirdly, it reverses the action
of the feed. The oscillating guide plate on the end of the moving bar is
made to reciprocate in a right line with the latter. When one side of the
groove or slot in this guide plate. comes into contact with one side of the
stud that is fixed on the said moving bar it will force the opposite side of
the said stud against the opposite side of the groove or slot in the turning
guide plate through which it also passes), and thus it will cause the
"feed dog" to move in any direction in which the groove or slot on the
second or turning guide plate is placed. For instance if the operator wishes
to feed directly from him the groove or slot in the turning guide plate
will be placed in that direction, whilst that in the oscillating guide plate
will cross the former at an angle of about forty-five degrees (more or less),
the end of the groove or slot which is opposite to the right hand of the
operator will be nearest to him, and the left-hand end of the said groove
will be furthest from the operator. It will be evident that by changing
the relative positions or directions of the grooves or slots in the several
guide plates the operator can cause the "dog" to feed in any other
direction that may be required.
My improvements relate, sixthly, to a method of and mechanism for
embroidering, ornamenting, and covering the edges of fabrics for button
holes and the like, and may be used in combination with what is known as

page_text: the single thread or "tambour" stitch, or with what is known as the
shuttle or "Grover and Baker" stitch, or with any other well-known
sewing machine stitches. This part of my Invention consists, firstly, in
laying a thread or threads on the upper surface of the material in the form
of the figure 8 by means of fingers or other suitable and well-known appli-
ances, so that the descent of the needle or needles will fasten the said
thread or threads on the surface of the material. When two needles are.
used the ornament produced will be similar to a series of figures of 8
connected together at one end, that is to say, the threads will cross each
other between the needles, passing entirely around each needle, and there
will be two threads upon the surface to be fastened down to the material
by each stitch as the work progresses. By employing two needles with
this arrangement, one needle passing through the coils on the fabric, and
the other outside the edge of the same, the figure 8 being formed partly
over the edge, a stitch over the edge of the fabric very similar to the.
ordinary hand button-hole stitch will be produced. But if one needle
only be used the form of the ornament will be similar to the figure that
would be described by a combination of a continuous circular and an.
advancing rectilinear motion, being a series of coils, and each descent of
the needle will enter into one of these coils and fasten two threads to the:
surface of the material.
A further improvement consists in laying a second coiled thread on the
under side of the material to be fastened thereto by the shuttle thread, so
that both sides of the work will be ornamented precisely alike, that is to
say, the needle first passes through the coil above the fabric, then through
the latter, and afterwards through the coil below the same. The loop of
the needle thread is then formed, and the shuttle with its thread passes
through this loop, and thus secures both coils, one on the surface and the
other on the under side of the fabric. A further improvement in orna-
menting or embroidering is effected by passing a thread with its bobbin
entirely round the needle and its thread, so that the needle on its descent
will fasten down one side only of the coil (thus formed) to the surface of.
the fabric. The ornament produced will be in the form of a small helical
coil laying on the surface of the material. In order to cause the spool.or
bobbin to lay the ornamental thread which it contains round the needle,
there must be a rotating ring (driven in any convenient manner) placed
round the needle carrier about an inch and a quarter (more or less) above
the surface of the material to be ornamented, having a hole in the centre.
of the said ring of a sufficient size to admit the lower end of the needle

page_text: with its carrier to pass freely through it. This rotating ring carries a
spindle affixed to its under side to hold the spool or bobbin which contains
the ornamental thread, allowing the same to turn freely on the said spindle.
The ring with its spool or bobbin will rotate entirely around the needle
and its thread at each and every stitch. The presser bar must be placed
far enough from the needle carrier to admit of the turning of the ring and
its bobbin; or a loose bobbin may be placed so as to encircle the neck of
the rotating ring, so that the needle will pass not only through the latter
but also through the centre of the bobbin containing the thread, the
rotating ring being provided with a leading hole or guide through which
the thread passes. This ornamental thread may also be laid round the
needle and upon the surface of the fabric by means of a rotating hook, the
said hook rotating round the needle and its thread, the bobbin containing
the ornamental thread turning upon a stationary spindle in the same manner
as when the fingers are used; or an oscillating hook may be so constructed
as to perform the same operation.
Such being the nature and object of my said Invention for improve-
ments in sewing machines and in sewing or embroidering, I will now
proceed to describe more in detail the manner in which the same is to be
or may be performed or carried into practical effect, and in order that the
same may be distinctly understood I have annexed hereunto two Sheets of
Drawings illustrative thereof, and have marked the same with figures and
letters of reference corresponding with those in the following explanation
thereof, that is to say,―
In the annexed Drawings, Figure 1 is a side elevation; Figure 2, a plan
view, as seen from above; Figure 3 an end view; and Figure 4 an inverted
plan view (as seen from below) of the improved machine for sewing leather,
which constitutes the first part of my Invention; a,a, is the bed or work table
of the machine, and b, b, is the standard or arm which supports the principal
working parts, the work feeding and shuttle driving arrangements only
being placed beneath and supported by the bed; c, c, is the main driving
shaft of the machine, which is provided with a fly wheel d, d, and driven
by a band passing round the grooved pulley e, e; at one end of this shaft 1
c, c, is keyed a disc, which by means of a crank pin f,fimparts a vertical
reciprocating motion to the bar g, g, which works through suitable bearings
in the forked end of the arm or standard b, b, in a similar manner to the
ordinary needle carrier; the lower end of this reciprocating bar g, g,
carries a rocking clamp h, h, which is provided with an awl or piercer i, i,
and at right angles thereto an instrument or pusher /, /, notched at its

page_text: lower end and grooved at the sides as above described (see also detached
view, Figure 5). The rocking of this clamp h, h, so as to bring either the
awl or the pusher into a perpendicular position over the work is effected
in the following manner:-The face of the clamp is furnished with two
pins and m, one of which as the reciprocating bar ascends comes into
contact with the lower end of the moveable stop or lever n, n, every time
the bar g, g ascends, and thus causes the rocking clamp to make one
quarter of a revolution. The stop lever n, n, is brought alternately into
contact with the two pins and m, by its upper end working against the
face of a cam o, o, keyed on the end of the cam shaft p, p; the said cam
shaft being caused to make one revolution to every two turns of the main
driving shaft c, c, by means of the spur gearing q, q. The rocking clamp
h, h, is held steady and prevented from turning at any other time than
when the pins and m are in contact with the stop lever n, n, (or when the
reciprocating bar g, g is near the top of its stroke), by means of one end of a
spring catch r,r, falling into one or other of the notches in the periphery of
the rocking clamp. This catch is released as the reciprocating bar ascends
by its reverse end coming into contact with the fixed cam s, s, (see Figure 5),
but it falls again into its notch as the bar in descending carries it below
the fixed cam s,s; t, t, are the fingers for spreading the thread over the
hole pierced by the awl so as to be ready to be caught and carried through
the work by the "pusher;" these fingers are actuated by the four-motion
cam u, u, fixed on the same boss as the cam o, o. The bobbin or spool
for carrying the thread is shown at v, v, being mounted on a fixed spindle,
the upper end of which is screwed and provided with a nut and spring
washer for applying the necessary amount of friction to the bobbin v, v;
w, w, is the take-up lever for taking up the slack of the thread after
every stitch, which is actuated by a cam x, x, fixed to the face of the spur
wheel
The presser bar
q.
y, y, carrying at its lower end the presser foot
z, z, is held down by the spring 1, 1, and is raised by the cam lever 2, 2,
when required; 3, 4, are two cams for actuating two levers 5, 6, which
operate the feed apparatus as hereafter described; 7, 7, is a crank
actuating the shuttle driving shaft 8, 8, by means of a connecting rod 9, 9,
and crank 10, 10. The length of the connecting rod 9, 9, is equal to the
distance between the centres of the two shafts c, c, and 8, 8, but the crank
10, 10, is just so much longer than the crank 7, 7, that each revolution of
the former imparts an oscillation of one-third of a revolution (to and fro)
to the latter, and consequently to the shuttle driving shaft 8, 8, as shown
clearly by the red lines in Figure 3; the other end of the shaft 8, 8,

page_text: carries the shuttle driver 11, 11, which contains and actuates the shuttle
12, 12. The form of this shuttle driver and shuttle is somewhat similar
to those mentioned in the Specifications of my former Patents herein-
before referred to, with the following exceptions:-Instead of fixing the
shuttle driver with a screw into a slot in the end of the shuttle-driving
shaft I couple it to the end of the latter by a boss furnished with a slot
and screw, as shewn dotted at Figure 1, so that the shuttle may be
adjusted to enter the loop sooner or later without affecting the relative
position of the shuttle-driving shaft and its crank, and I propose to furnish
the shuttle driver with an adjustable wedge 13, 13, as shown at Figure 5*,
which passes under the shuttle and allows of the increasing or diminishing
of the space for the passage of the thread according to the thickness of
the thread employed. The form of the shuttle is shown clearly in three
views at Figure 6, and the principal improvement consists in placing the
hole or outlet 14, 14, through which the thread passes in the centre of
motion of the shuttle, and in causing the lug which carries this hole to rest
against the end of the shuttle-driving shaft so as to carry the face of the
shuttle clear from the face of the disc 15, 15; 16 (see Figure 3) is a
spring to keep the shuttle up to its work. The form of the "throat"
through which the thread is carried down by the pusher is shown at
Figure 7; it consists principally of placing a revolving ring 17, 17, with a
V-edge round the aperture, so that the work can either turn on the ring or
the latter turn with the work. Figure 8 shows the "feed dog" with parts
of its serrated surface 18, 18, made movable or detachable by means of a
small screw, so as to afford facility for the use of a "binder" or "hemmer"
when required.
The feeding motion of my improved leather sewing machine is seen best
in the inverted plan view Figure 4, and in the detached sectional view
Figure 9. The levers 5 and 6 act respectively on the ends of two sliding
bars 19, 19, and 20, 20; these levers, as above described, are actuated by
their cams 3 and 4 against which they are held by the pressure of the
springs 21, 21. The outer end of the bar 19, 19, is formed with a wedge
as seen at Figure 9, which, when the bar is thrust forwards, raises the
"feed dog" 18, 18, so that its serrated surface comes into contact with the
under surface of the work. The outer end of the bar 20, 20, is forked
and embraces a pin 22 on the under side of the feed dog. It will
be evident that if this bar 20 only moved longitudinally its forked end
sliding to and fro on the pin 22 would impart no motion to the feed
dog, but the bar is also provided with a second pin 23, which works in

page_text: a diagonal slot in a turning guide plate 24, 24; which as the bar slides
longitudinally imparts a lateral motion thereto, and consequently a cor-
responding longitudinal motion to the feed dog; the extent of this motion
(and hence the length of the stitch) is regulated by setting the slot in the
turning guide plate at a greater or less angle as required by means of the
lever 25, 25, 26, 26, is a spring, the free end of which is immediately
below the throat of the machine, and which is carried down by the pusher
k in its descent..
The action of this machine is as follows:-The work being properly
arranged and held firmly under the presser foot z, and the awl i being in 'a
perpendicular position and the pusher k horizontal (as shown in red lines
at Figure 5) the reciprocating barg descends, and the awl pierces the hole,
as the bar. g ascends the stop lever n is brought into the position shown in
Figures 1 and 5, the catch r is withdrawn from its notch, and the stud /
coming into contact with the end of the stop lever n turns the rocking
clamp one quarter of a revolution and brings the pusher into a vertical
and the awl into a horizontal position. The bar g then descends again,
the catch r falling into the other notch and holding the clamp steady:; at
the same time the fingers t, t, advance (one on each side of the thread),
then cross. and separate, spreading or laying the thread across the hole
immediately under the notched end of the pusher (the take-up lever w
simultaneously descending so as to give out slack thread for this purpose),..
the pusher carries the thread down through the work and through the
throat 17 whilst the fingers t, t, are withdrawn; as soon as the pusher
k has carried the thread below the throat its lower end comes in contact,
with the end of the spring 26, which it carries down with it about a quarter.
of an inch (more or less). As the pusher k reascends. the spring 26,
follows it, holding the thread close against the notched end of the pusher,..
thus causing it to form a loop through which the shuttle 12 with its thread..
then passes, the take-up lever then rises and takes up the slack, pulling the
thread tight. The feed dog 18 then advances (whilst the pusher is
ascending) and moves the work the distance of one stitch. As the bar.g
completes its ascent, the stop lever n reverses the rocking clamp h,
bringing the awl into a perpendicular position, and the movements are
repeated as before.
Figure 10 represents an improvement in the shuttle driver when used:
with needle machines; it consists. in providing the shuttle driver a, a, with
a shield 6 which (as the driver oscillates) precedes the point of the shuttle,
presses against the needle c, c, below the eye and keeps it back in a line

page_text: with the face of the disc d, d, so that the point of the shuttle e, e, cannot
come into contact with the needle. In arm or sleeve machines I propose
to cause the shuttle to oscillate in a perpendicular direction and transverse
to or across the arm, as described with reference to Figures 1, 2, 3, and 4,
and as also shown at Figure 12; the shuttle a, a, (see Figure 12) being
placed between the line of the needle and the end of the arm so as to
bring the line of the needle to within about the thickness of the shuttle
from the end of the arm. In using this arrangement the needle b is fixed
in a small bracket or projection c at the lower end of the needle carrier d, d,
with its grooved side inwards, the thread passing up from the eye of the
needle through a hole e, e, in the bracket. But in some instances I propose
to place the shuttle a, a, on the inside of the disc f, f, as shown at
Figure 11, in this case the needle b is fixed in the bracket c with its grooved
side outwards, and the hole e, e,-through the bracket is outside the needle.
My improved feed motion for feeding the material in any direction with-
out removing it from the machine is shown in section at Figure 12, and in
reversed plan view at Figure 13. The "feed dog" g, g, is a long bar with
a roughened surface at one end, the other end being forked to embrace a
pin h; near the roughened end of the feed dog is a stud pin i fixed in
a lever k, k, which works as a tongue in a slot in the feed dog g, g; the
pin i works into and through a slot in a circular oscillating guide plate I, I,
and also into a second slot in a circular guide plate m, m, beneath. The
guide plate 1, 1, is mounted in a sliding block n, n, whilst the guide
plate m, m, fits (and turns) in a circular recess in the bed of the machine.
The sliding block n, n, is moved to and fro by means of a bar o, o, the
other end of which carries a pin or stud p which works in a slot in a second
turning guide plate q, q, fitted in a circular recess of the bed of the
machine. This end of the bar o, o, being moved laterally by means of a
cam r, r, (or by any other suitable mechanism) the action of the pin p in
the slot of the guide plate q, q, will cause the bar o, o, to move the sliding
block n, n, longitudinally, and by means of the pin i will impart a corre-
sponding motion to the feed dog g, g, according to the relative positions
of the two slots in the guide plates and m. The particular angle in which
the feed dog g, g, is moved will necessarily depend upon the relative
positions of the slots of the guide plates and m, whilst the reversing of
the direction of the feed and the length of the stitch will as absolutely
depend upon the position of the slot in the guide plates 9, q. The alter-
ations in the positions of these guide plates may be effected in any con-
venient manner, one method being shown at Figure 13.
The guide

page_text: plate m is furnished with spur teeth round a portion of its periphery
gearing with similar teeth in a turning disc s, s, fitted in a circular recess
in the sliding block n, n, and thus the position of the turning guide plate m
may be changed by turning the disc s, s; by means of the lever t, t, and
link u, u.
The oscillating guide plate l, 1, is also furnished with teeth
gearing into a rack v, v, also connected by a link w, w, with the lever t, t;
x, x, (Figure 12) is, the shuttle-driving shaft; y, y, the shuttle carrier,
and z, z, the lift, cam for lifting the feed dog. .
Figure 14 is an illustration of what I call the figure 8 stitch for em-
broidering produced by two needles and a finger or hook; a, a, and b, b,
are the two needle threads which are worked in the ordinary manner; c, c,
is the embroidery thread. This thread is laid in the position shown by
means of a finger having a notched and hooked end actuated by a four-
motion cam in a similar manner to the fingers t, t, described with reference
to Figures 1, 2, 3, and 4. If only one needle be used the form of the
ornamental stitch will be similar to that shown at Figure 15, and if two
needles be used, one of which passes over the edge of the fabric whilst
the other passes through the coils on the fabric, a stitch over the edge of
the fabric very similar to the ordinary hand button-hole stitch will be
produced. If when using one needle only the ornamental thread is carried
entirely round the needle by a rotary motion at each stitch instead of
being laid in figures of 8 as shown at Figure 14, the effect will be that
of a series of overlapping coils as shown at Figure 16. One method of
producing this stitch is shown in section at Figure 17, and inverted plan
at Figure 18. The lower guide 1, 1, through which the needle bar d, d,
works is provided with an excentric boss or neck 2, 2, through a hole in
which the ordinary needle thread passes from the spool to the eye of the
needle b, b. In this boss or neck 2, 2, is placed a short tube 3, 3, so as to
be capable of turning thereon, and having at its upper end a spur wheel
4, 4, driven by the toothed gearing 5, 5, from the main driving shaft.
The tube 3, 3, carries the bobbin 6, 6, with the embroidery thread, the
lower flange of the said bobbin being furnished with a leading hole 7 for
guiding the thread. If found necessary a guide may be attached thereto
projecting downwards to within a quarter of an inch or so of the surface
of the fabric.
Having now described the nature and object of my said Invention for
Improvements in Sewing Machines and in Sewing or Embroidering,"
together with the manner in which the same is to be or may be performed

page_text: or carried into practical, effect; I would remark, in conclusion, that I claim
as my Invention, the several improvements in sewing machines, and in
sewing or embroidering, as herein-before particularly, described and illus-
trated in the annexed Drawings, or any, mere. modification or imitation.
thereof constructed and operating or worked in substantially the same or
a similar manner.
:
In witness whereof, I, the said Isaác Merritt Singer, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, this Nineteenth day of May, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-six.