Improvements in the Manufacture of Pile Trimmings.
Year: 1895

page_text: Date of Application, 21st Mar.,
1895
Complete Specification Left, 21st Dec., 1895-Accepted, 7th Mar., 1896
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Pile Trimmings.
.4
We STEPHEN BARNWELL of 118 Everton Road, Manchester, Manufacturer,"
and THE BARNWELL MACHINE COMPANY LIMITED of 6 City Road, Manchester,
do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
Our said invention relates to narrow fabrics having a pile face to be used for
bindings trimmings and the like purposes.
Hitherto such fabrics have either been woven in wide pieces with a weft pile
which then have been cut into narrow strips or as ribbons having a warp pile.
When woven wide and cut up there is a raw cut edge of the same thickness as
the rest of the fabric owing to the weft forming the pile extending across the
whole width of the strip.
When such strips are used as trimmings or facings it is usually necessary to
double the raw edge under and this produces a bulky appearance.
the disadvantage of the absence of perfectly fast edge.
There is also
When woven as ribbons with warp pile it is possible to produce thin fast edges.
having no pile threads in them but for many purposes a warp pile fabric is not.
so suitable as a weft pile fabric in which the pile can be more easily made fast.
Our said invention consists of a strip of fabric having a weft pile and having
one or two selvedges from which the weft pile is wholly or partly omitted so that
such a selvedge presents a couvenient place for attaching the fabric by sewing or
otherwise to the garment to which it is to be applied.
In weaving such a fabric the treading of the shafts is so arranged that either
none or only a portion of the pile weft is bound in by the warp threads forming
the plain selvedge and thus all or a portion of the pile weft returns on itself at
each pick from a point a short distance from the extreme edge of the fabric,
In some cases we bind the pile as a twill so as to give a diagonal appearance to
the cloth.
"
We may vary the particular weaving in of the pile weft to produce other special
patterns or effects.
૧
it and finished in the usual manner.
i
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Pile Trimmings.
We STEPHEN BARNWELL of 118 Everton Road, Manchester, Manufacturer,
and THE BARNWELL MACHINE COMPANY LIMITED of 6 City Road, Manchester,
do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be
performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement :-
Our said invention relates to narrow fabrics having a pile face to be used for

page_text: Hitherto such fabrics have been woven either as wide pieces with a weft pile to
be subsequently cut into narrow strips, or as ribbons having a warp pile.
When woven wide and cut up, there is a raw-cut edge of the same thickness as
the rest of the fabric, owing to the weft which forms the pile extending across
the whole width of the strip. When such strips are used as trimmings it is
usually necessary to double one or both of the raw edges under, but, owing to
the thickness of the edges being as great as that of the rest of the fabric, such
turning under produces a bulky appearance. There is also the disadvantage of
the absence of a perfectly fast edge. When woven as ribbons with warp pile it is
possible to produce narrow fabrics having thin edges with no pile in them but for
many purposes a warp pile fabric is not so suitable as a weft pile fabric in which
the pile can be more easily made fast.
The object of our said invention is a narrow fabric in which are combined the
advantages of a weft pile with the thin edges hitherto only obtained in a warp
pile fabric. These advantages we obtain by weaving in a smallware or ribbon
loom a fabric with a pile produced by the weft or shuttle thread in such a manner
that the pile weft or the part of the weft constituting the pile is omitted wholly
or partly from one or both edges of the fabric. In this way one or two edges or
selvedges are produced which are thinner than the rest of the fabric and while
presenting convenient means for attachment by sewing or otherwise are less bulký
and more pliable than when containing the same amount of pile thread as the rest
of the fabric.
In weaving such a fabric the treading of the shafts is so arranged that either
none or only a part of the weft pile or of that part thereof which constitutes the
pile is bound in by those warp threads which are used for the selvedge or selvedges
and thus either all or a portion of the weft constituting the pile returns on itself
from a point a distance from the extreme edge of the fabric dependent on the
width of the selvedge to be produced.
The Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, in the accompanying drawing will aid the description but
it is to be distinctly understood that these are merely diagrams illustrating the
principle of our invention and are not to be taken as actual representations. In
the Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4 the longitudinal dotted lines a a represent warp threads,
the transverse dotted lines b b represent the weft threads or parts thereof con-
stituting the ground or plain part of the fabric, the full lines c c represent those
weft threads or portions thereof which constitute the pile.
Fig. 1 illustrates a fabric containing only the ground weft in the selvedges d d'.
To effect this the treading of the sheds is so arranged that the part of the weft
which constitutes the pile returns on itself at the warp threads a' a' before
reaching the extreme edge (as it would do if an ordinary weft pile fabric with pile
right across were being produced).
Fig. 2 illustrates a modification of Fig. 1. In this example the pile weft stops
short at one side only and returns ou itself at the line a¹.
Fig. 3 illustrates the course of the weft forming the pile in a fabric with two
selvedges da portion of the weft which constitutes pile is allowed to extend to
the extreme edge of the fabric as at ff while returning short of the extreme
edge as at ee in other places. The relative number of pile shoots in the selvedges
as compared with the rest of the fabric may be varied according to the particular
effect it is desired to obtain.
Fig. 4 illustrates a modification of Fig. 3 as applied to a fabric with only one
selvedge.
By way of example Figs. 14, 24, 34, and 44 show drafts of the weaving for
producing actual fabrics of a similar nature to those explained by the aid of the
corresponding diagrams in Figs. 1. 2. 3, and 4.
The cloth illustrated in Fig. 1 (and 14) Fig. 2 (and 24) is to be produced by
double batten weaving. The cloth illustrated in Fig. 3 (and 3*) and Fig. 4
(and 4) inay be produced by single batten weaving.
We wish it however to be understood that our said invention is not limited to

page_text: the production of the particular designs of cloth indicated by these drafts. The
treading of the shafts may be varied to produce weft piles and grounds of the
most varied designs, such as for example as are known as velveteens cords and
the like with either plain or figured grounds.
Single or multiple batten weaving may be adopted in producing such fabrics
according to the nature of the ground and the pile which it may be desired to
produce.
The pile and the ground may be produced by different shoots of the same weft
thread so that at one shoot the thread is bound in by the warps so as to form the
ground and at another shoot it may be so bound in as to form a pile on the
surface. In other cases the pile and the ground may be produced by two or more
different weft threads each having its own shuttle.
By pile or pile thread we mean indifferently the shoot or shoots appropriated
to the formation of the pile in the act of weaving in a loom whether such shoots
are obtained by a weft thread or threads separate from the ground thread or by
using for such shoots the same weft thread which in other shoots goes to form the
ground fabric.
The selvedges may be ornamented or diversified in various ways according to
the taste or skill of the weaver as will be well understood by those conversant
with the manufacture of similar fabrics.
Pile fabrics made in accordance with our said invention may also be combined
with piping cord braid or other materials according to the purpose to which they
are to be applied.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what we
claim is.
1. A weft pile ribbon trimming or binding having one or two selvedges without
pile threads therein substantially as set forth.
2. A weft pile ribbon trimming or binding having one or two selvedges into
the composition of which only part of the pile shoots enter substantially as set
forth.
3. In the manufacture of weft pile ribbon trimming or binding having one or
two selvedges, binding in a portion of the weft threads at some distance from the
edge of the selvedge so as to leave a selvedge formed by the remaining weft
threads only, substantially as described.
Dated this 19th day of December 1895.
E. T. WHITELOW, A.M. Inst. C.E.,
70 Deansgate, Manchester, Agent for the Applicants.