Machinery for the Manufacture of Real Lace, Tulle, Blonde, Trimmings and the like.
Year: 1896

page_text: Date of Application, 19th Sept., 1890
Complete Specification Left 14th July 1897-Accepted 18th Dec. 1897
Date of Application, 19th Sept., 1890
Complete Specification Left 14th July 1897-Accepted 18th Dec. 1897
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Machinery for the Manufacture of Real Lace, Tulle, Blonde,
Trimmings and the like.
I JULIO DE VARGAS MACHUCA Y LLORCA of Alicante, in the Province of Alicante,
in the Kingdom of Spain, Mechanic, do hereby declare the nature of this inven-
tion to be as follows:-
The machine for the manufacture of real lace, tulle; blonde, trimmings and the
like forming the subject of the present application is very simple in construction
and can be worked by an attendant of little experience, it is also very strong and
durable.
The machine possesses special features which distinguish it from all analogous
machines constructed in the manner heretofore adopted, including those for
making blonde and tulle and those for making analogous fabrics.
A special feature of this machine, perhaps the most important, is that each of
the bobbins and carriages, used in substitution for the bobbins employed in
making hand made lace, is completely independent of all other similar parts and
is capable of moving vertically and horizontally and at the same time of being
transported from any position from one end of the machine to the other without
the necessity for returning to its point of departure.
At each cycle of movements executed by this bobbin carriage a point of weaving
is made by its thread combining with its neighbouring thread and this point can
be made at will either with the thread on the right or with that on the left and
it can be made as a simple crossing, or as a twist and may form either cords or
plaiting.
This bobbin carriage, in order that it may be caused to execute all the move-
ments above referred to is provided with an auxiliary lifting and transporting
slide which is directly operated by Jacquard cards whereby such slides, and con-
sequently the bobbin carriages, are selected according to the pattern desired.
After having acted upon the bobbin carriages such slides are disengaged there-
from at each motion by the action of the Jacquard.
This lifting and transporting slide is mounted on two bars which retain it in a
vertical position but at the same time permit it to advance and recede according
to the design on the cards and it is provided with a spring catch to act in com-
bination with notches on one of the bars to hold it steadily in either its forward
or rearward position.
The slides and bobbin carriages are provided with lugs or catches to enable them
to be readily connected and disconnected.
These two bars give to the lifting and transporting slide a movement from
right to left and vice versa and upwards and downwards.
These two bars are moved upward and downward by two eccentrics fixed on
the main shaft and in the direction from right to left and vice versa by an eccentric
which receives its motion from the main shaft by means of chain gearing.
The general movements above mentioned are those which, by causing the

page_text: bobbins to cross each other, produce by the threads the lace, blonde, tulle, trim-
mings or other like fabric.
To give support to the fabric already formed and to the threads in these different
positions I employ a double set of plates provided with needles, the sets being
arranged one above the other and the plates of each set being close to each other,
whilst the needles are arranged in such manner as to form the angles of the design
and at each advance of the machine means are provided which, whilst pushing
the said plates in the direction to cause them to advance the distance required
for each movement causes one plate of needles to rise in front to the upper set at
the same time that it causes another plate of needles to descend at the rear to the
lower set. These plates are suitably inclined or bevelled at their upper and lower
edges to facilitate their transposition from one set to the other.
A comb is employed to collect the points and conduct them into position to
enable them to be seized by the needles. The teeth of these combs' are provided
with grooves to receive the needles at the moment when they rise into position.
The movements of the lifting and transporting slides and of the bobbin carriages
are controlled by the Jacquard cards arranged to this end.
All the movements of the parts above mentioned and all the movements of the
other parts of the machine are obtained directly from the main shaft in order to
obtain mathematical regularity and precision.
The stopping and starting of the machine are arranged in a special manner,
that is to say, by a single movement of the handle the machine stops always at
a fixed point corresponding with a completed point of the work.
Dated September 19th 1896
HARRIS & MILLS,
23 Southampton Buildings London. W.C. Agents.
Machinery for the Manufacture of Real Lace, Tulle, Blonde,
Trimmings and the like.
JULIO DE VARGAS MUCHUCA Y LLORCA of Alicante, in the provence of Alicante,
in the Kingdom of Spain Mechanic do hereby declare the nature of this invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement:-
This invention relates to a machine for the manufacture of real lace tulle and
blonde, real lace for trimmings, real lace curtains, shawls and the like, and
other kinds of real lace, of which imitations are made on the ordinary lace
machines..
Now for the manufacture of real lace it is necessary that the machine be so
constructed and operated that any thread in the machine may be selected and
twisted with any other thread; and the object of this invention is the construction
of a machine that will carry out the above named conditions with certainty and
accuracy and in a simpler and more expeditious manner than heretofore.
According to this invention all the threads used are carried by bobbins which
are nominally held in a frame, the sides of which are built up of springs so
arranged that on both sides of the frame the bevilled edges of the springs fit
between the bevilled ends of the bobbins. Above the bobbins is the bobbin carrier
frame which is provided with one bobbin carrier for every two bobbins in the
bobbin frame. These bobbin carriers are guided and moved vertically for lift-
ing the bobbins, transversely for selecting the bobbins, and also move with the
bobbin carrier frame longitudinally for transporting the bobbins from one position 5

page_text: to another. There are points for taking up each crossing as it is made and pin
bars for holding or securing the same, these pin bars having pins arranged therein
according to the pattern and being arranged in two tiers of which the upper one
is in operation. After a certain number of crossings have been made the pin
bar in the lower tier nearest the bobbin is raised to the upper tier, while the pin
bar furthest from the bobbins in the upper tier is lowered to the lower tier and
this changing of the pin bars is governed by the jacquard.
The movements of the various parts of the machine are derived from cams or
eccentrics on a rotating shaft and there is a jacquard or other pattern mechanism
for selecting and controlling the movements of the various parts of the machine..
In order however that this invention may be thoroughly understood there is
attached hereto three sheets of drawings which are referred to in the following
detailed description:-
Fig 1 is a sectional elevation of the machine.
Fig 2 is an elevation showing the means for operating the jacquard cylinder
and for raising and lowering the bobbin carriers.
Fig 3 is a plan of the mechanism shown in Fig 2.
Fig 4 is a plan of mechanism under the base plate, partly shown in Fig 1, the
base plate being indicated by dotted lines.
Fig 5 is the inside elevation of one end of the machine.
Fig 6 is a detail showing the means for rotating the jacquard cylinder.
Fig 7 is a detail showing the points and pin bars with the inechanism for
operating the same.
Fig 8 is an inside elevation of the mechanism connected with the points.
Fig 9 is an end elevation of the mechanism used for giving an extra motion to
the points when the pin bars are changed.
Fig 10 is a transverse section of the bobbin frame.
Fig 11 is a section on the line B. B Fig 10.
Fig 12 is a section on the line A. A. Fig 10 and
Fig 13 is a series of diagrams illustrating the methods of operating the bobbins.
The bobbins 1 are made with a hollow centre of the shape indicated by the
dotted lines, and there are openings 2 to facilitate the introduction and with-
drawal of the cop or spool. At one end of the hollow in the bobbin there is a
passage 3 which terminates in an eye or opening 4 through which the thread 5.
passos. Each bobbin is made with bevilled edges and at the top is provided with
hooks or catches 6. The bobbins 1 are supported by a suitable frame built up
of side pieces 7 which are firmly connected to a base plate 8 as shown more fully
in Figs 10, 11 and 12 and are provided with a series of springs 9 which form the
sides of the bobbin frame. These springs 9 at their lower ends fit a groove 10 in
the pieces 7 and are held therein sy strips 11 which are grooved to receive
every alternate spring as shown in Fig 11. The upper end of alternate springs 9
are held from side movement by grooves in the bars 13 which bars also form
stops 14 to limit the movement of the springs towards the inside of the frame..
The inner faces 12 of the springs are hevilled to correspond with, and to form
recesses for the bevilled ends of the bobbins 1.
Above the bobbins and bobbin frame there are the bobbin curriers and bobbin
carrier frame, and in the machine herein referred to the bobbins, the bobbin
carriers, and the division plates 16 in the bobbin carrier frame are all the same
thickness, so that there are twice as many bobbins as bobbin carriers. The
bobbin carrier frame consists of a lid or cover 17 which is fitted to the slide end-
ways on guides 18 so that the bobbin carrier frame and the bobbin carriers may be
readily removed for the inspection and replacement of the bobbins 1.
lid or cover 17 there are other guides 19 in which a plate 20 is fitted to slide with
a limited amount of motion. To this plate 20 the division plates 16 are secured
in tricks which hold the plates at the proper distances apart. All the plates 16
are provided with slots 21 in which bars 22 and 23 are capable of sliding vertically
for raising and lowering the bobbin carriers 15 which are made with recesses to

page_text: embrace the bars 22 and 23 and allow of an endwise movement of the carriers, so
that the bobbin carrier hooks or catches 24 can engage with the hooks or catches 6
on the bobbins 1.. The har 23 is grooved on its upper surface to act as a catch
for a spring 26 on the bobbin carriers and hold these latter in their backward
or forward position. At the back end of the bobbin carriers there is a pin or
projection 26 by which the particular bobbin carriors are released by the jacquard
cards 27.
The bars 22 and 23 project beyond the end plates 16 and when the bobbin carrier
frame is in its working position the ends of the bars enter recesses 28 Fig 5 in
frames 29 which are fitted to slide vertically in guides 30 on the ends of the
machine framing and are actuated by crank pins 31 on the cam shaft 32, the
crank pins working in cam slots 33 formed in pieces 34 which are fitted to slide in
guides 35 on the machine standard and actuate the frame 29 through arms 36.
For traversing the bobbin carrier frame and the selected bobbins across the
bobbins on the bobbin carrier frame, the plate 20 is fitted with two projecting
arms which fit the edges of a cam 37. This latter is provided with slots 37" to
allow of the bobbin carrier frame being withdrawn, is shaped to give the move-
ments hereafter described with reference to Fig 13 and is driven by a chain or
other positive driving mechanism from the shaft 32. In the arrangement shown
the cam 37 is fixed to the same axle as the chain wheel 38 and is driven by a
chain 39 from a wheel 40 which is carried by an axle 41" and driven by a pin in
the end of the crank pin 31.
The jacquard cylinder 41 is carried by levers 42 from a shaft 43 which is rocked
by cams 44 on the shaft 32 through levers 45 whose ends are divided to act upon.
different parts of the cam 44 which thus performs the functions of a cam and
counter cam. Connected with the levers 42 is a bar 46 carried by pins 47 with
springs between the levers and bar. This bar 46 engages with the projections 48
on the bobbin carriers 15 and as the jacquard cylinder 41 is moved from the bobbin
carriers the bar 46 moves all the bobbin carriers to engage with the alternate
bobbins that are under the bobbin carriers. Then as the jacquard cylinder 41
moves towards the bobbin carriers the cards 27 disengage the bobbin carriers from
the unselected bobbins which are left in the bobbin frame while the selected
bobbins are raised out of the frame and moved sideways. The cards 27 which
may be of metal are perforated according to the pattern and they are guided and
arranged to fall in any convenient manner. There is a sliding bolt 48 Fig 5 for
locking in position the bobbin carrier frame and it is actuated by a toothed
pinion 49 from a handle at the end of the machine. For rotating the jacquard
cylinder 41 there is a lever with two pawls 50 Fig 6 which act upon opposite sides
of a ratchet wheel 51 on the jacquard cylinder shaft. The lever is in two pieces 52
and 53 which are fitted to slide one on the other. The piece 52 is pivotted at 54.
on the machine framing and is actuated by a pin 55 which is carried by the
frame 29 and projects through a slot 56 in the machine framing. The piece 53
terminates in a plate 57 to which the pawls 60 are pivotted and which also carries
the pawl springs 58. The plate 57 is slotted to allow of its movement round the
fulcrum 54. As the frame 29 rises one of the pawls 50 comes into action and
rotates the jacquard cylinder one eight of a revolution and as the frame 29 descends
the other pawl comes into action and completes the quarter revolution of the
jacquard cylinder.
After the bobbins have been selected and moved the crossings made by the
threads are taken up by points 59 which are guided at both ends on cam slots 60
and are actuated by a cam 61 through a lever 62 pivotted at 63 on the base plate 8,
a link 64, frame 65; lever 66, and link 67. There is one point to every two
bobbins and each point is recessed to receive the pins 60 on the pin bar 70 nearest
to the bobbins when it is raised from the lower to the upper tier. The number of
pin bars in operation at the same time depends upon the pattern and character a
of the work being made and in all cases the pins are arranged in the bars accord-

page_text: ing to the pattern. The pin bars 70 are arranged in two tiers one above the other,
the upper tier being in operation.
After a certain number of crossings have been made a pin bar from the lower
tier is raised to the upper tier and a pin bar in the upper tier is lowered to the
lower tier and at the same time the points 59 receive a movement round the centre
of their axle 71 to carry the crossings taken up over the pins in the bar to be raised.
This changing of the pin bars, the extra movement of the points, and the number
of crossings between such movements depends upon the pattern and character of
the work being made but the pin bars are changed when the direction of the
traverse of the threads is reversed. The bars 70 are thin metal plates which are
held together and against a fixed plate 72 by presser plates 73 which are acted
upon by springs 74, these and the plates 73 being carried by a frame 75 which is
fitted to slide in suitable guides and is locked in position by screws 76. The
pin bars nearest the plate 72 and the bars furthest from the same in both tiers aro
beld in position by the pressure of the springs 74 while the intermediate pin bars
of both tiers are supportól by ledges 77 in the pin bar frame, all the pin bars
being grooved at the ends to correspond with the ledges.
For changing the pin bars the machine is fitted at each end with a slide 92
working in guides 93 and grooved at 94 for a lif.er 95 for raising from the lower
tier to the upper tier the pin bar nearest the bobbing, and for a clawker 96 for
lowering from the upper tier to the lower tier the pin bar furthest from the
bobbins. Under the base plate 8 is a frame 90 carried by arms 91 from axles 87
and shaped at its ends to work in slots in the slides 32. For actuating the frame 90
and the pin bur lifters and clawkers a lever 86 is provided. This lever is pivotted
at 87 and is oscillated by a cam or eccentric SS and makes one complete oscillation
for each revolution of the shaft 32 but only actuates the frame 90 when it is
coupled thereto by mechanism thrown into action by the jacquard cards.
At the side of the lever 86 is a slide 83, the end 89 of which is normally held
by a spring catch 82 clear of the frame 90, the lever 86 and slide 83 oscillating as
single lever. Now when the pattern calls for a change in the pin bars the
jacquard cards act upon a pin 78 in the end of a lever 78 which is pivotted at
its upper end on a horizontal axle 78 carried by the machine framing. The
lever 78 when moved by the jacquard cards actuates a lever 79 caried by a vertical
axle which projects below the base plate 8 and is there fitted with another
lever 80. This lever 80 is made with a catch 84 and when moved engages with
a spring catch 85 by which it is held in its active position. The lever 80 has
also an inclined end 81 and when it is in its active position this
end 81 is struck by a similar incline on the catch 82 as the
iever 86 is oscillated, This moves the catch 82 clear of the lever 86 and the
slide 83 is shot forward by a spring the end 89 entering a slot in the frame 90
which is then, raised and lowered and the pin bars changed. As the slide 83
moves forward a pin 97 on it strikes a pin 98 on the spring catch 85 thereby
releasing the lever 80 which returns to its normal or inactive position, the slide 8
being returned to its normal position by the cam 88 which acts upon a pin 99
on the slide, and when this has been done the catch 82 holds the slide 83 until
the next change of pin bars is required.
The mechanism for giving the points 59 an extra movement at the time the
pin bars are changed is shown in Figs 7, 8 and 9. The points are free to turn
on the links 67 and at convenient positions have attached to them plates 100
which normally slide on cams 102 on a shaft 101 and are held in contact with
the same by springs 103. The shaft 101 has its hearings in the ends of the pin
bar frame and at one end is fitted with a cam 104. At the same end of the pin
bar frame as the cam 104, there is a slot 106 through which projects a stud 106
carried by the slide 92, and as the slide rises the lever 107 is actuated, depressing
the end 108 which acting upon the cam 104 rotates the shaft 101 and holds it
in its rotated position until the slide 92 descends.

page_text: The machine is also provided with a rod 109 under which the work passes
and which is carried by hinged levers 110. There is also a roller 111 upon which
the work is wound as made, and this roller may be actuated by a weight ratchet
mechanism or by other convenient means. Motion is given to the driving
shaft 112 which is geared to the cam shaft and by preference a clutch arrange-
ment is provided and so designed that when in action the machine can always
be brought to rest in the same position.
The cops or spools of thread used with this machine are similar in shape to
the hollow part of the bobbins and are obtained by winding the thread on to a
flat plate of the same size and shape as the hollow in the bobbins. These cops
or spools when wound are covered with a picce of thin paper or other suitable
and similar material to facilitate the introduction of the cops into the bobbin
and to allow of the same being handled without disarrangement of the coils of
thread. The cops or spools are then drawn off the plate on which they were
wound and the end of the thread is passed through the end of the wrapper and
a piece of textile fabric to put a tension on it.
in
În Fig. 13 there is shown a series of diagrams illustrating the movements of
the bobbins during two consecutive cycle of movements. Five bobbins 1 are
shown all sectioned differently, but the same bobbin is sectioned in the same
manner in all the diagrams. The bobbin carriers are supposed to occupy the
space between the division plates 16.
All the parts of the machine being in their proper relative positions, the
jacquard cylinder moves away from the machine and all the bobbin carriers are
engaged with the alternate bobbins which are under the bobbin carriers. The
jacquard cylinder then comes forward and the unselected carriers are disengaged
from their respective bobbins. The bars 22 and 23 then rise and lift all the
bobbin carriers and the selected bobbins until the latter are clear of the bobbins
in the bobbin frame (A Fig. 13). The bobbin carrier frame is then moved to the
right a distance equal to the thickness of one and a half bobbins (B Fig. 13)
and the bobbins start to descend at the same time being moved to the left a
distance equal to a half the thickness of a bobbin (C. Fig. 13). This latter sido
movement pushes the adjacent bobbin on the left side of the descending bobbin
into the space recently occupied by the descending bobbin, a movement which is
rendered possible by reason of the spring sides of the bobbin frame. The bobbin
is then lowered into its new position in the bobbin frame, and the bobbin carrier
frame is moved to the right a distance equal to the thickness of one bobbin
(1) Fig 13). For the next and every alternate crossing the bobbin carrier frame
moves to the left, right and left instead of to the right, left and right, as in the
first crossing, and the diagram EFG and H (Fig 13) of the second crossing
correspond with the diagrams ABC and D) of the first crossing.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is-
J. In a machine for the manufacture of real lace, the combination of the
bobbins with a frame having spring sides, arranged and operating substantially
as herein described for the purpose specified.
2. In a machine for the manufacture of real lace, the combination of the
bobbins with a bobbin frame having spring sides and bobbin carriers arranged
and operating substantially as herein described for the purpose specified
3. In a machine for the manufacture of real lace, the combination of the
bobbins with a bobbin frame having spring sides, bobbin carriers, and points
for taking up the crossings of the threads, arranged and operating substantially
as herein described for the purposes specified.
4 In a machine for the manufacture of real lace, the combination of the
bobbins with a bobbin frame having spring sides, bobbin carriers points for
taking up the crossings of the threads and pin bars with pins fixed therein accord-

page_text: ing to the pattern arranged and operating substantially as herein described for
the purpose specified.
5. In a machine for the manufacture of real lace the combination of the
bobbins with a bobbin frame having spring sides, bobbin carriers and points for
taking up the crossings of the thread pin bars with pins arranged therein accord-
ing to the pattern and a jacquard or other pattern mechanism, 'arranged and
operating substantially as herein described for the purpose specified.
6. In a machine for the manufacture of real lace, the combination of the
bobbins, the bobbin frame with spring sides, the bobbin carriers with mechanism
for moving the same, pin bars arranged in two tiers with mechanism for moving
the bars from one tier to the other a jacquard or other pattern mechanism for
selecting the bobbins and controlling the movements of the pin bars and points,
all arranged and operating, as herein described with reference to the accompany-
ing drawings for the purpose set forth.
7. A machine for the manufacture of real lace constructed and operating
substantially as herein described, with reference to the accompanying drawings.
Dated this 13th day of July 1897.
W. H. POTTER, M.I.M.E.
Patent Agent Nottingham.