IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF PRINTED WARP FABRICS
Year: 1854

page_text: "
.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Joseph Wilson at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on-the
17th November 1854.
Wi
i
I, JOSEPH WILSON, of Hopton, in the County of York, Manufacturer, do
hereby declare the nature of my said Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE
MANUFACTURE OF PRINTED WARP FABRICS" to be as follows, that is to say:
This Invention relates to the weaving or manufacturing of printed warps
for the production of both "loop" and "cut pile" figured fabrics. One or
more warps of a plain cheap material are used to form the foundation of the
fabric, and to produce the pile surface a printed surface warp is worked up;
one half of this surface warp, that is, every alternate thread thereof, being
wound upon an ordinary weaver's beam, which may be termed No. 1 beam,
whilst the remaining threads are wound upon a distinct beam No. 2. One
beam, however, may be used for this purpose; but however otherwise arranged,
the printed surface warp_threads_must_always_be-divided,-by-drawing-them-
into two or-more healds or heddles. In addition to the ordinary mounting
for working-the plain foundation or ground, two levers or heddles are used

page_text: for working the figured surface warp, these separate heddles being here dis-
tinguished as Nos. 1 and 2.
The surface warp is entered into the heddles in
this order: The first thread from surface warp beam No. 1 is entered through
the first eye of heddle No. 1, and the second thread from beam No. 2 is
similarly entered through the first eye of heddle No. 2. The third thread
from beani No. 1 is then entered through the second eye in heddle No. 1, and
the fourth thread from beam No. 2 through the second eye in heddle No. 2,
this sequence being continued throughout, the breadth of the warp, passing a
thread alternately from the two beams alternately through the two heddles.
Thus, all the surface warp threads contained on beam No. 1 are passed through
heddle No. 1; No. 2 beam threads being similarly passed through heddle
No. 2, thus giving a separate command of the printed surface warp from
each beam.
In weaving velvet cut pile fabrics the printed surface warp threads are
acted upon thus:-The printed surface warp enters through heddle No. 1 is
elevated whilst the warp in heddle No. 2 is depressed, and in this position of
the threads the ordinary wire for raising the pile is inserted between the two
lines. The surface warp in beddle No. 1 after passing over the wire is
depressed, and the surface warp in heddle No. 2 is elevated. In this condi
tion, the warp in No. 1 heddle is bound down to the ground of the fabric by
suitable weft shoots, and whilst the two warps remain in this condition, No. 1
depressed and No. 2 elevated, a second wire is inserted between them, as
before, and the surface warp in No. 2 heddle after passing over the second
wire is depressed, and No. 1 warp is elevated; whilst No. 2 warp is depressed,
it is bound down to the ground of the fabric by weft shoots, as in the case of
.No. 1 warp. This routine is continued: throughout the piece, the inserted
wires being cut out as the weaving proceeds. The piles or loop or uncut
fabrics are produced in the same manner, except that the wires are obviously
-drawn,-and-not.cut.out..
By another modification of the weaving of loop or uncut fabrics, the printed
warp is acted upon thus:-The surface warp threads in heddles Nos. 1 and 2
are elevated, and in this condition the first wire is inserted beneath them;
No. 1 warp is then depressed, and bound down to the ground of the fabric by
weft shoots; No. 2 warp still remains elevated. No. 1 warp is now again
elevated, and a second wire is passed below the two surface warps 1 and 2;
No. 2 warp is then depressed and bound down by weft shoots to the ground of
tlie fabric, No.1 warp remaining elevated;-No.-2-warp-is-then again-elevated,-
and the same alternate process is continued to the end of the piece. Various
other effects may be produced by the division of the surface warp threads into

page_text: more than two parts, the essential object of the Invention being the binding
down and distributing of the printed surface warp more equally and evenly,
and in the thinner masses into and over the foundation of the fabric, than is
effected under the existing system, of binding and depressing the whole mass
of printed surface warp at once. In all cases the printed surface warp is
entered through two or more heddles, each heddle requiring to be drawn in
regular succession, being mounted and woven in a similar manner. It is to
be observed that the division of the printed warp surface refers to the distinct
heddle actions without reference to the number of beams employed. Hitherto,
in making pile fabrics from printed warps, it has been usual to elevate and
depress the entire printed surface warp in one mass; hence the binding of the
undivided mass of printed surface warp into the ground produces a coarse
and ridged effect, giving the ground of the finer fabrics a coarse and clumsy feel.
But, by the herein-before described process, not only is a more even pile
surface secured, but a really superior fabric is produced, with economy of
materials.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Joseph Wilson in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
17th May 1855.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JOSEPH
WILSON, of Hopton, in the County of York, Manufacturer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Seventeenth day of November, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-four, in the eighteenth year of
Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto
me, the said Joseph Wilson, Her special license that I, the said Joseph
Wilson, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I,
the said Joseph Wilson, my executors, administrators, or assigns, should
at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times
thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might
make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain
and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "Im-
PROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF PRINTED WARP FABRICS," upon the con-
dition (amongst others) that I, the said Joseph Wilson, by an instrument
in-writing-under my hand and seal, should particularly describe and ascertain

page_text: the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be
performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office
within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said
Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Joseph Wilson, do hereby declare
the nature of my said Invention; and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and' by the following
statement in writing, reference being had to the accompanying Drawings;
and to the letters and figures marked thereon, that is to say :-
My said Invention relates to the weaving or manufacturing. of printed
warps for the production of both "loop" and "cut pile" figured fabrics.
One or more warps of a plain cheap material are used to form the foundation
of the fabric, and to produce the pile surface a printed surface warp is
worked up; one half of this surface warp, that is, every alternate thread
thereof, being wound upon. an ordinary weaver's beam, which may be termed
No. 1 beam, whilst the remaining threads are wound upon a distinct.beam
No. 2. One beam, however, may be used for this purpose; but however
otherwise arranged, the printed surface warp threads must always be divided,
by drawing them into two or more healds or heddles. In addition to the
ordinary mounting for working the plain foundation or ground, two leaves or
heddles are used for working the figured surface warp,, these separate heddles
being herein distinguished as Nos. 1 and 2. The surface warp is entered into
the heddles in this-order-The first thread from surface warp b beam m No. 1 is
entered through the first eye of the heddle No. 1, and the second thread from
beam No. 2 is similarly entered through the first eye of the heddle No. 2.
The third thread from beam No. 1 is then entered through the second eye in
heddle No. 1, and the fourth thread from beam No. 2 through the second eye
in the heddle No. 2, this sequence being continued throughout the breadth
of the warp, passing a thread-alternately-from-the_two_beams alternately
through the two heddles. Thus, all the surface warp threads contained on
beam No. 1 are passed through heddles No. 1, the warp threads of No. 2
beam being similarly passed through heddle No. 2, so as to give a separate
command of the printed surface warp from each beam.
In weaving velvet cut pile fabrics the printed surface warp threads are
acted upon thus:-The printed surface warp entered through heddle No. 1 is
elevated whilst the warp in heddle No. 2 is depressed, and in this position of
the threads the ordinary wire for raising the pile is inserted--between_the
two lines. The surface warp in heddle No. 1 after passing over the wire
is depressed, and the surface warp. heddle No. 2 is elevated. In this con-

page_text: dition, the warp in No: 1 heddle is bound' down to the ground of the fabric by
suitable weft shots, and whilst the two warps remain in this condition, 'No.'1
depressed and No. 2 elevated, a second wire is inserted between them, as
before; and the surface warp in No. 2 heddle, after passing over the second
wire, is depressed, and No...I warp is elevated; whilst No. 2, warp is
depressed, it is bound down to the ground of the fabric by weft shots, as in
the case of No. 1 warp: This routine is continued throughout the piece, the
inserted. wires being cut out as the weaving proceeds. The piles of loop or
uncut fabrics are produced in the same manner, except that the wires are
obviously drawn, and-not cut out.
..
By another modification of the weaving of loop or uncut fabrics, the printed
warp is acted upon thus:-The surface warp threads in heddles Nos. 1 and 2
are elevated, and in this condition the first wire is inserted beneath them:
No. 1 warp is then depressed and bound down to the ground of the fabric by
weft shots, No. 2 warp still remaining elevated; No. 1 warp is now again
elevated, and a second wire is passed below the two surface warps Nos. 1
and 2; No. 2 warp is then depressed and bound down by weft shots to the
ground of the fabric, No. 1 warp remaining elevated; No. 2 warp is then again
elevated, and the same alternate process is continued to the end of the piece.
Various other effects may be produced by the division of the surface warp
threads into more than two parts, 'the essential object of the Invention being
the "binding down and distributing of the printed surface warp. more equally
and evenly, and in thinner inasses into and over the foundation of the fabric,
thán is effected under the existing system, of binding and depressing the whole
mass of printed surface warp at once.. In all cases the printed surface warp
is entered through two or more heddles, each heddle requiring to be drawn in
regular succession, being mounted and woven or actuated in a similar manner.
It is to be observed that the division of the printed warp surface refers to the
distinct heddle actions, without 'reference to the number of beams employed.
Hitherto in making pile fabrics from printed warps, it has been usual to
elevate and depress the entire printed surface warp in one mass; hence the
binding of the undivided mass of printed surface warp into the ground pro-
duces à coarse and ridged effect, giving the ground of the finer fabrics a coarse
and clumsy character. But, by the herein-before described process, not only
is a more even pile surface secured, but a really superior fabric is produced,
with economy of -materials.
And in order that my said Invention may be properly understood, I shall
how proceed to describe the several-diagram-Figures on the Sheet-of-Drawings
hereunto annexed, as illustrative of certain practical-means-whereby-my-said

page_text: Invention may be carried into actual effect; and in reference to this Sheet of
Drawings, I shall first of all illustrate the application of my Invention to the
manufacture of a loop carpet fabric.
Figure 1 on my Sheet of Drawings is a diagram side or end elevation of
the reed, heddle, and warp beam details as at rest, or in their zero or inter-
mediate position, when no special or heddle shed is formed. The two printed
surface warp beams are at 1, 2, behind the loom. One half of the printed
surface warp threads, taking them in due alternated order, are wound upon
the beam 1, and they are passed in the line indicated by 3 through each eye of
the corresponding heddle 1, and through the reed 4 on their route to the scene
of the actual weaving of the fabric in front of the reed. The remaining
lialf of the printed surface warp threads, in alternated order in reference to
the first half just referred to, are wound upon the second beam 2, and in like
manner this series of warp threads passes along the line 5, through each eye of
the corresponding heddle 2, and thence through the reed 4. The lowest warp
beam 6 of the series has wound upon it a thick wadding warp of coarse
material, to give weight, solidity, and substance to the fabric. Its line of warp
threads passes along the line 7, and thence through the front heddle 8 of the
series, and through the reed. The fourth warp beam 9 carries a plain founda-
tion warp, to form the ground warp or ground work of the fabric. One half
. of these ground warp threads, taking them in due alternated order, are passed
through the eyes of the back heddle 10, and the remaining half are similarly
passed through the eyes of the adjoining heddle 11, the two lines then passing
through the reed 4 to join the rest of the warp- threads at the part being
actually woven. The result of this arrangement is, that there are five distinct
sets of lines of warp threads involved in the weaving action; and in entering
them for weaving, four of them, that is to say, one thread from beam 6, two
threads from beam 9, and one thread from the printed surface warp beam 1, are
passed through the first split or division of the reed 4; then the next or suc-
-ceeding-split-of-the-reed-has passed through it one thread from beam 6, two
threads from beam 9, and one thread from the printed surface warp beam 2, aud
this sequence is continued across the entire breadth of the set of warps. The
position of the weaving details, delineated in Figure 1, is that in which what
may be called a natural shed is formed, that is to say, a separation arising
independently of the working action of the heddles, which are in this case
at their common starting level. In this position, a loop wire 12, which is the
same as that ordinarily used for raising or forming the loops_in_common.
tapestry carpet weaving, is inserted in the shed beneath the two lines of
printed surface warp-threads 3, 5, and above all the ground and wadding warp

page_text: threads, and in front of the reed. This natural shed is produced by placing
the eyes of the heddes 1 and 2 so as to stand at a correspondingly higher level
than the rest when at a state of rest, or when the whole are in their inter-
mediate position. With the loop wire in this position the change indicated in
Figure 2 now takes place. This change involves the elevation of the printed
surface warp heddle 2, carrying up its half of the printed surface warp threads,
and also the elevation of the heddle 10, taking up its half of the ground warp
threads. Simultaneously with this elevation, the other three heddles 8, 1, and
11 are depressed, respectively carrying down the whole of the wadding warp
threads, the lower half of the printed surface warp threads, and one half of the
ground warp threads. When in this position, the first binding weft shots 13 is
thrown or passed in between these elevated and depressed lines of warp threads
in front of the reed 4. Figure 3 represents the next change in the heddles;
where the heddle 11 only is depressed, keeping down the half of the ground
warp threads, last referred to, whilst the heddles 8, 1, 2, and. 10 are all elevated.
The second binding weft shot 14 is now passed into this shed, the weft being
thus passed above the depressed half of the ground warp only. Figure 4
represents the succeeding position, bringing back all the heddles and lines of
warp threads to their normal position, as in Figure 1, when the second-loop wire
15 is passed into the natural shed thus arising, that is to say, the wire passes
beneath the two lines of printed surface warp threads and above the whole of
the others. When this second wire has been thus entered, the change repre-
sented in Figure 5 occurs; the heddles 1 and 11 are elevated, so as to take up
the lower half of the printed surface warp threads 3, and. the half of the ground
warp threads last depressed; at the same time the heddles 8, 2, and 10 are
depressed, taking down the whole of the wadding warp threads, the upper half
of the printed surface warp threads, and the half of the ground warp threads
last elevated. At this stage the third binding weft shot 16 is passed into the
shed, so as to be beneath the lower half of the printed surface warp threads;
and one half of the ground warp threads, and above all the rest. Figure 6
represents the last change of the cycle or series of movements, constituting one
complete set of weaving actions which follow each other in constant and
continuous succession throughout the weaving of the piece. This last change
resolves itself into the elevation of the heddles 8, 1, 2, and 11, respectively
carrying or keeping up the whole of the wadding warp threads, the whole of
the printed surface warp threads, and the same half of the ground warp threads,
represented as elevated in Figure 5. At this stage the fourth and concluding
binding weft-shot-17-is-passed-into-the-shed, beneath-the-whole-of-the-warp
threads, except one half of the ground-warp. This completes the action, and

page_text: the weaving process is continued by again bringing all the heddles to zero, or
their normal position, as in Figure 1; and repeating the series of movements
just described; the loop wires being of course drawn out of the fabric as the
weaving goes on. The actuating movements of the heddles as well as the reed
action may be contrived in various ways; and in this respect my Invention
does not necessarily differ from existing arrangements for a like purpose.
According to another modification of my Invention as applied to the manu-
facture of printed surface warp loop groods, I dispense with the loop wire, and
effect the elevation of the surface warp to form the loop, by the agency of a
weftishot, thrown or passed into the different sheds for this purpose. These
weft shots, being duly proportioned in thickness to suit the intended loop, may
either be allowed to remain in' or be drawn out from the. piece, according to
the effect which the weaver desires to produce; but in all cases a solid foun-
dation or ground cloth is worked quite independently of the weft shot employed
for raising the loop. It will be obvious to the practical manufacturer that the
number of binding weft shots thrown in during the cycle of movements, as
well as the number of separate threads' or ends of the warps passed through
a single eye of the heddle, and a single. split of the; reed, and consequently
actuated as one thread, 'may be greatly varied. The remaining Figures on my
Sheet of Drawings serve to illustrate my system of producing cut pile fabrics,
besides presenting diagrams of both my loop and pile goods in illustration of
the precise system of the interweaving of the various threads. Figure 7-on my
Sheet of Drawings represents the heddle, reed, and warp beam details, em-
ployed in the manufacture-of-my-pile goods, as also produced from printed
surface warps. In this case, the printed surface warp is carried, as in the
former example, upon the two warp beams A; B, one half of the warp threads
in due alternated order being wound upon each beam. The entire set of warp
threads upon the beam A are passed through the eyes of the corresponding
heddle A, and similarly the whole of the threads upon the beam B are passed
through the eyes of the heddle B, all the threads from both beams being
passed through the reed C. The plain foundation warp, forming the ground sub-
stance of the fabric, is all wound upon the third beam D, situated beneath the
other two. The foundation warp threads are divided into two equal sections,
and the threads composing these sections are passed in due alternated order
through the eyes of the two heddles E, F; that is to say, all the threads from
one alternated line pass through the heddle E, and all the threads from the
other alternated line similarly pass through the heddle F, both sets. of threads
being thence continued through the reed C. In this arrangement, then, there
are four distinct sets or lines of warp threads involved in the weaving action,

page_text: and in entering them for weaving, two of them, that is to say, one thread from
the foundation warp beam D, and one thread from the lower half of the printed
surface warp or beam B, are passed through the first split of the reed. Similarly,
one end or thread from the other half of the foundation warp on the beam D,
and one thread from the upper half of the printed surface warp threads on
the beam A, are passed through the second split of the reed, and this sequence
is continued across the entire breadth of the warps: The relation of the parts
delineated in Figure 7 is here given as indicative of the primary setting of
the heddles. When the weaving is to commence, the change represented in
Figure 8 occurs, the two central heddles A and F being, elevated, whilst the
outside heddles B and E are depressed, thus causing the elevation of the upper
half of the printed surface warp threads on the beam A, and one half of
the ground warp threads on the ground warp.beam D, and the depression of the
lower half of the printed surface warp threads as contained on the beam B,
and one half of the ground warp threads as contained on the beam D. In
this relative condition of the parts, the first weft-shot G-is passed through the
shed so produced, the weft being thus inserted under one half of the entire
series of warp threads and above the other half. Figure 9. represents the
succeeding change, wherein the two external heddles! B and E are elevated;
and the two central heddles A and F depressed, thus exactly reversing the
relation observed between the warp threads in the last position...In this
condition the second weft shot His passed into the shed In Figure 10,
representing the next change, the heddle A alone is raised, carrying up
upper half of the printed surface warp on the beam A, and all the rest of the
warp threads are depressed to form the shed for the insertion of the first loop
wire I, which is now put in, in front of the reed. When this has been accom-
plished, the change shewn in Figure 11 takes place. This is a reproduction of
the relation observed in Figure 9, the heddles B, E, being 'elevated, and A, F,
depressed; and in this state the third weft shot J is passed into the shed.
After this movement, the change, Figure 12, occurs, being. a. return to the
position delineated in Figure 8; the heddles A and F being elevated, and the
other two, B and E, depressed, when the fourth weft shot K is passed into
the shed. Figure 13 is the next and final change of the series. Here, the
heddle Balóne is elevated, whilst the remaining heddles- A, F, and É-are
depressed, amounting to the elevation of the lower half of the printed surface
warp threads as contained on the beam B, and the depression of the other
half of these warp threads along with the whole of the ground warp-threads.
At this stage the second wire is passed into the shed. This completes the
detail of the weaving action, and the operator-then-changes-the-heddles back
the

page_text: to the position delineated in Figure 8, and proceeds, as herein-before described,
in weaving the piece throughout. The weft shots and loop wires are worked
up in the usual manner, and the wires are cut out to leave the surface of the
piece in its pile form complete. Figure 14 represents a plan or face view of
a portion of a finished loop fabric, woven according to the system first detailed
herein, as well as a section of the fabric, in the direction of the length or warp
lines of, the piece. Here a are the printed surface warp loops, as "breaking
bond" with each other in their respective lines; and are the ground warp
threads; c, the wadding warp threads; and d, the binding weft shots. Figure 15
represents a similar plan and section of the cut pile fabric as woven according
to the process detailed under the second general head of my Invention. In
this instance, e are the printed surface warp pile threads; f, the ground warp
threads; and 9, the binding weft shots. It is to be understood, that in the
manufacture both of the loop and pile fabrics, the printed surface warps em-
ployed to produce the finished ornamental device of the goods are printed with
their ornamental figures in an elongated condition; that is to say, the figure is
distorted or stretched out in the direction of the length of the warp, so that
when the take-up of the looping action in weaving occurs, this elongation
allows for the shortening due to the loop, and the ornament is presented in its
complete and symmetrical form. It will be obvious to the practical man that
the various warp beams which I employ in carrying out my Invention may be
variously arranged, and the warps may be variously apportioned thereon; and,
similarly, the several warps may be variously divided and apportioned into
different heddles, still producing an effect or final result similar to that which
I have herein-before described.
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of my said
Invention, and the manner in which the same is, or may be used or carried into
effect, I may observe, in conclusion, that I do not confine or restrict myself to
the precise details or arrangements which I have had occasion to describe or
refer to, as many variations may be made therefrom without deviating from
the principles or main features of my Invention; but what I consider to be
novel and original, and therefore claim as the Invention secured to me by
the herein-before in part recited Letters Patent, is,―
First, the system or mode of working in the loom, printed surface warps for
the manufacture or production of "pile" or "loop" fabrics, as herein-before
described.
Second the system. or mode of producing ficured loan or nile fabrics

page_text: Third, the system or mode of working or manufacturing printed surface
warps into loop or pile fabrics, wherein the printed warp is drawn or entered
through two or more heddles, worked separately or in succession.
Fourth, the manufacture of figured loop or pile fabrics from printed sur-
face warps, separated or divided and actuated in the manner herein-before
described.
Fifth, the system or mode of manufacturing figured loop or pile fabrics,
wherein printed surface warps are divided and alternated through two or more
heddles, so as to give each heddle, and the section of printed surface warp
passed through that heddle, a separate, distinct, and independent action.
In witness whereof, I, the said Joseph Wilson, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Fifteenth day of May, One thousand eight hundred
and fifty-five.
•
JOSEPH WILSON. (L.S.)