The Manufacture of an Improved Fabric in Imitation of Bobbin- net or Twist-lace Fabrics, and Improved Machinery employed therein.
Year: 1891

page_text: Date of Application, 28th Jan., 1891
Complete Specification Left, 23th Nov., 1891-Accepted, 9th Jan., 1892
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
The Manufacture of an Improved Fabric in Imitation of Bobbin-
net or Twist-lace Fabrics, and Improved Machinery employed
therein.
We, JOSEPH OLD KNOW, of 4 City, Beeston, in the County of Nottingham,
Mechanic, and GEORGE HARDY, of 7 Lime Grove, Long Eaton, in the County
of Derby, Lace Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be
as follows:-
:-
According to our invention we are enabled to produce an improved fabric, which
bears a close resemblance to bobbin-net or twist-lace, and at a speed which is far
in excess of that attained by the twist lace machine.
Our improved fabric possesses the further advantage of having a fast tie, a feature
which no other class of lace possesses.
In carrying our invention into effect we arrange a series of independent tumbler
or bearded needles, side by side, the whole length of the machine, each needle being
separate from, and independent of, the others, instead of being cast into leads and
clamped upon a bar, as in the case of the ordinary warp machine.
We fasten each needle by solder or other well known means to the end of a strip
of metal, to the opposite end of which strip a selector is attached by means of a
rivet-axis in such manner as to permit the selector to move on the rivet. On the
lower edge of the selector are two projections, one at the end, the other at a
suitable position between the rivet and the opposite end. Underneath the selectors
are placed two driving bars, to each of which a reciprocating movement is imparted
by cams or other suitable mechanism. The selectors are supported and held in
their proper position by sleys or tricks. The function of the driving blades is to
cause the selectors to advance and recede alternately. The back ends of the
selectors are attached to the strings of the jacquard, the strings being connected
with the hooks of the jacquard in the usual manner. It will be readily understood
by any one who is familiar with the operations of a jacquard that all those selectors
which are lifted as and when required to form the pattern which is being woven,
will have the front end so depressed as to place the projection in a position to be
operated by the front driving blade; thus all the selectors which the jacquard
puts into operation, are carried forward by the front bar and the needles a short
distance with them, so that the guide bar can act on the top or under the needles;
the back driving bar is now brought forward and brings all the non-selected and
selected needles the required distance for the tie bar to act; the front driving bar
returns and takes all the needles back. The back driving bar returns at the same
time as the front driving bar, but has no part in bringing the needles back, but
when back holds the non-selected needles from coming forward. The return motion
is effected by the front driving blade. To put the selectors into a proper position
for each succeeding operation of the jacquard, we can if necessary, use a doffer-bar,
which would operate on the upper edge of the selectors.
It will be observed from the foregoing description that any needle or combination
of needles can be brought to the front for the process of weaving while the remainder
are left behind and out of operation.
In the front of the machine and opposite to the needles, are four guide bars
supported by and working upon brackets, which brackets have a rocking motion
imparted to them by cams or other suitable devices. These guide bars
receive their lateral motion from revolving discs having projections on their
periphery, which discs are known in the trade as "cuts of wheels," it being well
understood that each distinct mesh or pattern requires its own "cut of wheels," or
tr

page_text: other pattern producing apparatus. Of these guide bars the two outer ones are
employed to weave the clothing and other portions of the fabric, while the function
of the two central bars is to fasten the net ties and to make the pillars to imitate
the twisted or plaited pillar, which is the distinctive feature of the "twist lace
machine." In practice we find it convenient to use for the two central bars, yarn
of a finer quality (that is, thinner) than for the two outer bars.
By our invention we are enabled to produce a greater variety of fabrics of a
better quality and at a cheaper rate of production than has hitherto been possible
with machinery of this class.
Dated this 90th day of Tanu 1901
02
JOSEPH OLDKNOW.
GEORGE HARDY.
By Harris & Mills,
Southampton Buildings London WC Accents
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
The Manufacture of an Improved Fabric in Imitation of Bobbin-
net or Twist-lace Fabrics, and Improved Machinery employed
therein.
We, JOSEPH OLDKNOW, of 4 City, Beeston, in the County of Nottingham,
Mechanic, and GEORGE HARDY, of 7 Lime Grove, Long Eaton, in the County of
Derby, Lace Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention, and in
what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascer-
tained in and by the following statement :-
According to our invention we are enabled to produce an improved fabric which
bears a close resemblance to bobbin net or twist lace, and at a speed which is far in
excess of that attained by the twist lace machine.
Our improved fabric possesses the further advantage of having a fast tie made
in one motion by one independent needle, a feature which no other class of lace
possesses.
In carrying our invention into effect we arrange a series of latch or bearded or
other independent needles side by side the length of machine, cach needle being
separate from, and independent of, the others, instead of being clamped upon a
bar as in the case of the ordinary warp machine.
We fasten each needle, by solder or other well known means, to the end of a
strip of metal or needle slide, to which strip of metal or slide a selector is attached,
by means of a rivet axis, in such manner as to permit the selector to move on
the rivet.
On the lower edge of the selector are two projections, one at the front end, the
other at a suitable position between the rivet and the opposite end. Underneath
the selectors are placed two driving bars, to each of which a reciprocating move-
ment is imparted by cams or other suitable mechanism.
Should we use a solid needle slide, (that is, without a rivet,) we should not
require a selector, but would operate the needle slide direct from jacquard, and
should have projections above and below the needle slides, instead of having
projections on the selectors as in the case of a selector rivetted to the needle
slide.
The selectors or needle slides are supported and held in their proper position
by sleys or tricks.
The back ends of the selectors or needle slides are attached to the strings of the
jacquard, the strings being connected with the hooks of the jacquard in the usual
manner.
The function of the driving blades is to, cause the selectors or needle slides to
advance and recede alternately.
To any one familiar with the operations of a jacquard, it will be readily under-

page_text: stood that all those selectors which are lifted as and when required to form the
pattern which is being woven, will have the front end so depressed as to place
the projection in a position to be operated by the front edge of the front
driving bar.
In the use of needle slides without selectors rivetted thereto, the selected slides
are moved forward by the back portion of the front bar.
Thus all the selectors or slides which the jacquard puts into operation are carried
forward by the front bar, and the needles a short distance with them, so that the
thread guide bar can act on the top or under the selected needles.
The back driving bar is now brought forward and, by acting upon a projection
on the needle slide, brings all the non-selected and selected needles the required
distance for the tie bar to act.
The front driving bar returns and takes all the needles back by acting on the
said projection on the needle slide.
The back driving bar returns at the same time as the front driving bar, but has
no part in taking the needles back, but, in the case of needle slides having rivetted
selectors, when back, holds the non-selected needles from coming forward by acting
on a projection near the rear end of each selector.
To put the selectors or needle slides into a proper position for each succeeding
operation of the jacquard, we can, if necessary, use a doffer bar, which would
operate on the upper edge of the selectors or slides.
It will be observed from the foregoing description that any needle, or combina-
tion of needles, can be brought forward for the process of weaving, while the
remainder are left behind and out of operation.
In the front of the machine, and opposite to the needles, are four guide bars
supported by, and working upon, brackets, which brackets have a rocking motion
imparted by cams or other suitable devices.
These guide bars receive their lateral motion from revolving discs having pro-
jections on their periphery, which discs are known in the trade as "cuts of wheels,"
it being well understood that cach distinct mesh er pattern requires its own "cut
of wheels," or other pattern producing apparatus. Of these guide bars, the two
outer ones are employed to weave the clothing and other portions of the fabric,
while the function of the two central bars is to fasten the net ties and to make the
pillars to imitate the twisted or plaited pillar, which is the distinctive feature of
the twist lace machine, and, if desired, the fining or such central bars may be used
without the other guide bars and produce plain or other nets.
In practice we find it convenient to use for the two central bars, yarn of a finer
quality (that is, thinner) than for the two outer bars.
By our invention we are enabled to produce a greater variety of fabrics, of a
better quality, and at a cheaper rate of production, than has hitherto been possible
with machinery of this class."
And in order that our invention may be more clearly understood and readily
carried into effect, we will proceed, aided by the accompanying drawings, more
fully to describe the same.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.
Figure 1 is an end view of parts of a lace machine constructed according to our
invention.
Figure 2 is a plan of some of the parts at the right end of the machine.
Figure 3 is a plan of some of the parts at the left end of the machine.
Figure 4 is a sectional view of the working instruments drawn full size.
Figure 5 is an elevation of parts for giving lateral motion to the guide bars.
Figures 6, 7 and 8 are plan views of the wheels for giving lateral motion to the
guide bars.
Figures 9 to 16 are face views of most of the cams separately.
Figure 17 is an elevation, drawn on a large scale, of the needle slides and some
adjacent parts.

page_text: Figure 18 is a diagram, on a very enlarged scale, representing the method of
tying according to the present invention.
Figure 19 is a view of a needle and needle slide provided with a hinged selector
and adjacent parts, representing a modification described in our Provisional
Specification.
In all the figures like parts are indicated by similar letters of reference.
We will now describe the arrangement represented at Figures 1 to 17.
a is the main framing, & is the front cam shaft, c is the back cam shaft, and d is
the vertical shaft carrying the wheels for giving lateral motion to the guide bars.
Either the front cam shaft or the back can shaft c may be fitted with pulleys
and be used as the driving shaft, and motion is communicated from one to the other
by means of a cross shaft e, indicated by a broken centre line, and suitable gearing,
so as to give the back cam shaft c two revolutions to one revolution of the front
cam shaft b, and the vertical shaft d is caused to make three revolutions for each
revolution of the front shaft b.
In carrying our invention into effect we arrange a series of independent latch or
tumbler needles f (or it may be other class of needle) side by side the length of the
machine, each needle being separate from, and independent of, the others, instead
of being clamped upon a bar as in the case of the ordinary warp machine.
We fasten each needle f, by solder or other well known means, to the end of a
strip of metal or slide 1, and we pass these slides through a sley or comb f2
carried by one of the needle drivers, and we pass the needles through a sley f³ fixed
to the front of an adjustable cross bar a².
The needle slides are each formed with projections on their lower edge,
and with a projection on their upper edge, to enable the driving blades ggg
and the doffer or catch bar to act thereon, as hereinafter described. To each
needle slide is also attached a wire loop or eye f, which is attached by strings to
the hooks of a Jacquard machine, whereby any of the needles can be raised when
desired, according to the pattern required to be produced.
The function of the driving blades is to cause the needle slides to advance
and recede alternately; this is effected in the following manner. The driving
blades are fixed to bars or frames g, and the driving blade is fixed to bars
or frames 9, one of each of such bars or frames g * being near each end of the
machine. These bars or frames g g* are each provided with V slides under their
rear ends to run in V rollers g³, by which they are supported and guided at such
parts, and the frames or bars 9 are cach provided with upwardly projecting arms or
bars carrying trucks or rollers, whilst the bars or frames * have similar
upwardly projecting arms or bars carrying trucks or rollers gg". The
cams on the back cam shaft c act between and against both trucks or
rollers to give the required to and fro motion to the bars or frames g and
driving blades gg², and cams on such back shaft c act against the trucks or
rollers to move the bars or frames g* and driving blade towards the front of
the machine, whilst cams g14 on such back shaft c act against the trucks or rollers gl
to move the bars or frames g* and driving blades towards the back of the machine
and, for a time, hold them in such position. The driving blades g² ² gare
supported intermediate of their ends by rollers 1 carried by brackets g¹ fixed to
the main framing.
13
We would remark that the bar or frame g and the driving blades g' g² fixed
thereto, are what are referred to in our Provisional Specification as the front
driving bar or blade, and the bar or frame * and its driving blade ³, are what are
therein referred to as the back driving bar, the former being employed.to give the
leading motion to the selected needles, and the latter to cause the non-selected
needles, that is to say, those left behind, to follow the selected needles.
The doffer or catch bar his attached to levers mounted on axes of motion h²
carried by the forward arms or bars g of the bars or frames y, and such levers h
are connected by links to levers, which are mounted on axes of motion h³, one
at each end of machine, and are provided with trucks or pulleys 4, which are acted

page_text: upon by cams to depress the levers and thereby raise the catch bar / when
required.
,, are guides and guide bars controlling the figuring threads, and k, l, are
guides and guide bars controlling the tie threads. The guide bars i and are
mounted in arms or levers m' fixed to a bar or shaft m extending across the
machine and mounted in bearings at the upper ends of levers m², the lower ends of
which are fixed to a bar or shaft m³ mounted in bearings attached to the main
frame a.
To the bar or shaft m³ are fixed arms or levers m carrying trucks or
rollers m at their outer ends, which rest against cams m on the frout shaft >>, by
which means a motion to and from the needles is given to the guides and guide
barsk. To the bar or shaft m are also fixed arms or levers m' connected at their
outer ends to the upper ends of links m³, the lower ends of which are connected to
levers m³ mounted on studs or axes m¹ carried by fixed brackets a², and such
levers m³ are provided with trucks or rollers m" bearing against cams m2, by which
means a rising and falling motion is given at the required times to the guides i k to
lap their threads over the hooks of the needles f.
The guide bars and I are mounted in arms or levers a fixed to a bar or shaft n
extending across the machine and mounted in bearings at the upper ends of levers
the lower ends of which are fixed to a bar or shaft n³ mounted in bearings attached
to the main frame a. To the bar or shaft are fixed arms or levers n* carrying
trucks or rollers n at their outer ends, which rest against cams on the front
shaft b, by which means a motion to and from the needles is given to the guides
and guide bars i, 1. To the bar or shaft n are also fixed arms or levers n
connected at their outer ends to the upper ends of links 8, the lower ends of which
are connected to levers nº mounted on studs or axes n carried by the fixed
brackets a, and such levers n³ are provided with trucks or rollers n" bearing
against cams on the front shaft b, by which means a rising and falling motion is
given at the required times to the guides j, l, to lap their threads over the hooks of
the needles f.
.
The guide bars i, j, k, l, receive their lateral motion from revolving discs or
wheels o, o', 02, 03, fixed to a cylinder d fixed on the vertical shaft d. These discs
or wheels o, o, o², o³, act against nibs at the ends of arms of bell crank levers,
the arms of which are connected to the guide bars by means of links p³, which
are connected at their ends with the guide bars, and with the arms 2 by means of
universal joints, as shown. By these means the guide bars, although moved end wise
by the links p³, and connected by them to the arms p³, are free to rise and fall and
to move to and from the needles as required. The guide bars are acted upon in
the one direction by springs, (not shown,) and in the other by the discs or
wheels o, o, 02, 03, as described. It will be evident that the guide bars may
receive their to and fro motion by other suitable means, such, for instance, as the
jacquard.
7 represents a row of pickers and the picker bar, which stand in front of the comb
or sley f³, and act at the required times to keep the work towards the back part of
the needles. The picker bar 7 is fixed to the upper end of an arm 7', which is fixed
at its lower end to a bar or shaft 7 mounted in bearings in the free ends of rocking
levers fixed at their other ends to a bar or shaft mounted in bearings fixed to
the main framing. The rising and falling motion is imparted to the pickers in the
following manner. The bar or shaft q' is connected by links to ends of levers q
mounted at their centres on studs or axes, and having at their other ends trucks
or pulleys 8, which are acted upon by cams ..
The
The to and fro motion is imparted to the pickers in the following manner.
picker arms are connected by links 10 to the lower ends of levers mounted
on the studs, the upper ends of which levers are provided with trucks or
rollers bearing against cams 13. We would here remark that we have not
given the outlines of the cams, as they are almost exactly identical with the
cams mm, and can be readily adapted by a competent mechanic.
We will now describe the operation of the instruments in the production of work,

page_text: Suppose the hooks of the needles are just returning within the comb³ to knock
over the work which is on the needles: the pickers are then commencing to
descend, and the guide bar carrying the figuring or thicker threads, to rise; the
pickers fall to level with the tops of the needles, and the said guide bar rises to
a little higher than the tops of the pickers, so that the guide bar threads can pass
over them when they take their lateral motion; the pickers now begin to rise, and
the needles which were not raised by the jacquard are brought forward by the
driving blade g of the front driving bar, then, as soon as the needles enter the
pickers, the figuring guide bar falls below the needles; all the needles which have
been brought forward have the figuring guide threads resting on the tops thereof;
now the driving blade g of the back driving bar commences to bring forward the
needles which were lifted by the jacquard, and, by the time the back shaft has
made about a quarter of its revolution, the needles are all out one distance; this
would bring the hooks of the needles out to front of pickers; as soon as those
needles which were left behind have entered the pickers, the figuring guide bar
and the tic thread bar begin to risc, so that each tie thread can come into the hook
of its needle. As soon as the tie threads have safely landed in the hooks of the
needles, the tie thread guide bar and the figuring thread guide bar fall to their
lowest position, and, as they fall, are brought forward so that the tie threads
cannot get to the back side of the tumblers of the needles. Then, when the
needles are fully out, the blade g' of the front driving bar takes all the needles
back and the work is knocked over by the front edges of the sley ƒ³; the tic
threads go back a little before the needles to be ready to recommence their work.
In the diagram Figure 18 we have represented the course of two tie threads in
forming the new description of tic. represents one tic thread and y the other,
which, in the diagram, are combined in the formation of a pillar; for the sake of
clearness we have shown the thread a thicker than the thread y, but the tie threads
would both be of like substance; it will be observed that the needle has cast off
the last loop of the thread and has drawn a new loop of the thread y through it,
previous to which the tie thread y has passed around the thread; thus the two
threads ay are caused the one to twist around the other and then a loop of the one
will be drawn through the last loop of the other thread, that is to say, the thread a
will twist around the thread y and then a loop of the same will be drawn through
the last loop of the thread y, after which the thread y will twist around the
thread and a loop of the same will be drawn through the last loop of the thread.
It will be understood that two tic threads are thus combined in forming a pillar,
and that the figuring thread will, as required, traverse across the needles any
required distance, such figuring thread being passed through and tied in within the
pillar ties.
We would here remark that the improved fabric may be. formed with only one
figuring or thick thread and two tie threads to each needle, in which case the
guide bar j, shown in the drawings, would not be required, but when desired two
figuring or thick threads may be used in conjunction with two tie threads with
each needle, but in either case the tie threads will unite as above described to form
the pillars, the thick or figuring threads will traverse across the required number
of needles, and will be tied in to the pillars by the tie threads and, where required,
will be tied in with the tie threads to form the pillars.
According to the modification represented at Figure 19, the needle slide has
a selector attached thereto by a rivet joint, and the tail end of this selector
has the wire eye or loop attached to it, as also a projection f10 on the underside,
whilst its forward end has a projection also on the underside. The needle slide
has also a projection on its underside, between the front end of the selector and
the rivet axis. In this modification the front driving bar or frame has only one
driving blade fixed thereto, which acts against the projection to move the
selected needles forward, and the back driving bar or frame has two driving
blades g g fixed thereto, g³ of which acts against the projections to move
forward the non-selected needles after the selected needles have moved forward a

page_text: short distance to receive the guide bar threads, and then, in its continued motion,
it brings both selected and non-selected needles the required distance forward for
the tie bar threads to act. After this the two driving bars return together, but the
driving blade ga* of the back driving bar alone acts against the projections to
bring all the needles back and, when back, holds the non-selected needles from
coming forward. If desired a doffer bar similar to the catch bar may be
employed with this modification to ensure the proper fall of the selected needles
preparatory to a fresh selection thereof.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we
claim is :-
1. The improved description of fabric in imitation of bobbin net or twist lace,
consisting of one or two figuring or thick threads used in conjunction with two tic
threads to each needle, the figuring or thick threads being traversed across some
of the needles to form the weaving, and the tie threads being twisted around, and
interlooped with, each other to form the pillars, (either alone or combined with the
thick threads,) and to tie in the figuring or thick threads, substantially as hercin
described.
2. In the production of an improved description of fabric in imitation of bobbin
net or twist lace, the twisting around each other and interlooping of the tic
threads, whereby a fast tie is obtained, substantially as herein shown and described.
3. In machinery employed in the manufacture of an improved fabric in imitation
of bobbin net or twist lace, the combination of independent needles fixed to slides
and selected by jacquard, front and back driving bars and doffer or catch bar to
act upon the needle slides, one or two figuring thread guide bars and two tie thread
guide bars to. each needle, means for giving the necessary traversing and rising
and falling motions to such guide bars, and pickers to move and hold the work
back on the needles when required, substantially as herein shown and described.
4. In machinery employed in the manufacture of improved fabrics in imitation
of bobbin net or twist lace, the combination and arrangement of independent selected
needles, needle driving bars, thread guide bars, picker bar, and catch or doffer bar,
operated substantially as herein shown and described and for the purpose stated.
5. The combination and arrangement of machinery for producing the improved
fabric herein described in imitation of bobbin net or twist lace fabrics, substantially
as herein shown and described.
Dated this 28th day of November 1801
JOSEPH OLDKNOW.
GEORGE HARDY.
By Harris & Mills,
23, Southampton Buildings, London, W.C., Agents.