IMPROVEMENTS IN APPARATUS FOR WEAVEING AND CUTTING VELVETS AND OTHER FANCY CLOTHS
Year: 1884

page_text: I JOHN KNOWLES, of Dukes Brow Blackburn in the County of Lancaster,
Machinist, do hereby declare the nature of my invention for IMPROVEMENTS IN
APPARATUS FOR WEAVEING AND CUTTING VELVETS AND OTHER FANCY CLOTHS to
be as follows:-
My invention relates, firstly, to an improved apparatus for opening the warp
threads, for the passage of the shuttle between them on its way across the loom.
The said apparatus, commonly known as a Shedding Machine or Dobby, is
connected with, and controls the moveable shuttleboxes at one or both ends
of the slay, and is constructed in the following manner. I place two or more
ranges of hooks, in a suitable framework in a horizontal position, which frame-
work is placed on the top part of the loom, in such a manner that one end of the
hooks can be attached to the healds, by bell crank levers, or pulleys, the other end
of these hooks is to be taken hold of by a lever, which has a reciprocating motion
imparted to it from any convenient shaft of the loom, and so raises or depresses
such healds as have been selected by the pattern chain, which is mounted and
revolves underneath the front part of the hooks. This pattern chain may consist
either of perforated cards, or strips of wood with projections on them, in the
ordinary way, for the purpose of lifting such of the hooks out of the way as they
are required to be, at each passage of the shuttle by means of needles suspended
from the hooks. The cylinder is mounted on a tube, through which a shaft passes.
On the back end of this shaft, I place a crown star wheel, which is actuated by a
driver placed on a shaft at right angles with the cylinder shaft, and if required
extends to each end of the loom. This driver is made in the form of a clutch box,
so that if more picks of the shuttle are required than one, to form the pattern, the
clutch is drawn back by means of a supplementary chain, allowing the pattern
cylinder to become stationary till again required. The said supplementary chain
also actuating the needle board through which the needles are suspended from the
hooks on which the pattern chain operates. When perforated cards are used to form
the pattern in place of lags with projections on them, these perforated cards have a
double row of holes inade in them and when it is required to change from one kind
of cloth to another the needle board is caused to move from one row of holes to the
other by means of a lever and projections on the said spplementy chain. This

page_text: shaft which is placed at right angles with the pattern cylinder, receives its motion
from one of the lower shafts of the loom, by means of chains and toothed wheel, or
a vertical shaft and gearing. On one or both ends of this shaft I fix a clutch wheel
which revolves with the shaft and communicates an intermittant motion to a star
wheel, which actuates a chain of cams or rack, for the purpose of raising and
lowering the moveable shuttleboxes as they may be required by the pattern then
being woven.
When double velvet or carpeting is being woven, three sets of healds are required,
the top set of healds are tied up to one range of hooks so that the shuttle will pass
freely under its warp threads. The bottom set of healds are tied up to the other
range of hooks, so that the shuttle will pass freely over its warp threads. The pile
warp healds are tied up so that the yarn they contain can be interlaced, freely
between the top and bottom ground warp threads the top ground warp healds are
tied up about three inches above or higher then the healds containing the bottom
ground warp so that when two shots or picks are required in the top cloth, the
hooks selected by the pattern chain pull down a portion of the healds, so that the
top shuttle can pass freely; and when two picks are required to be woven in
the under cloth, the moveable shuttlebox rises and the hooks lift up the healds
selected by the pattern chain so that the shuttle can pass freely through the
shed. The objects of these double lift sheddings and shuttleboxes are to form
perfect selvidges on both cloths.
The second part of my invention relates to the cutting or severing the pile when
woven face to face and consists of a metal comb placed between the two cloths,
constructed in a novel form, having the front parts of its teeth, twice the depth of
the back parts, the depth being regulated by the depth of pile required. For
instance, if the depth of pile being woven is to be one quarter inch deep, the depth
of the front part of the comb will require to be one half inch deep for about one or
one and a half inches long when the teeth are reduced to one half its depth. On
the top of this reduced part I place a cutting knife or cutting comb having some-
thing like a saw tooth cutting edge, the bottom or regulating comb is fixed rigidly
the whole width of the piece and the top cutter has a quick horizontal motion
imparted to it by a cam, or eccentric placed on one of the driving shafts of the
loom. By this means the interlaced threads forming the pile become cleanly cut
or severed from each other and dispenses with the old cumbrous wire motion so
objectionable, by this means the production is largely increased.

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION,
I, JOHN KNOWLES of 8 Minnie Terrace Dukes Brow, Blackburn in the County
of Lancaster, Machinist do hereby declare the nature of my invention for IMPROVE-
MENTS IN APPARATUS FOR CUTTING AND WEAVING VELVETS & OTHER FANCY
CLOTHS, and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
My Invention relates to improvements in apparatus for weaving various kinds of
fancy cloths, and amongst others, the weaving and cutting of plush or velvet pile
cloth. In order that my said invention may be fully understood, I will now
particularly describe the same by reference to the accompanying sheet of drawings
Fig. 1. is part of the front side of a loom, with a side view of my improved shedding
machine fixed on the top. Fig. 2, is an end view of the same. Fig. 3, is part of a
loom framing shewing the position of the yarn when making pile cloth with the
novel cutting comb attached in position. Fig. 4 is an end view of the cutting
comb. Fig. 5 is a plan of the. same. A Fig. 1 represents the loom framing
B the slay with shuttleboxes X D is the framework of my improved shedding
apparatus as indicated by the dotted lines, in which are placed two rows of hooks K,
one above the other in grids R'; the position shewn in Fig. 1. is when the machine
is at rest. The double ends of the hooks are attached to bell crank levers L, to the
other end of these bell crank levers L are attached the levers N and M. When it
is required that the top healds 1. should be depressed the hooks that are not raised
by the pattern cylinder R, is taken hold of by the cross bars, and drawn down by
cord 1, round pulley O, by means of bell crank lever F, which is actuated by crank
bracket C, which is mounted on tappet-shaft C, and when the botton healds 2.
require to be raised, the bottom row of hooks are acted upon in the same way.
When the tappet shaft C is in motion a forward and receding motion is imparted
to cross bars, by means of the levers F, H and J, Figs. 1 and 2. The pile healds 3
are caused to rise and fall or interlace between the top healds 1 and bottom healds 2,
Fig. 3, as may be required. These hooks are actuated by a pattern cylinder R
Figs. 1 and 2. This cylinder is mounted on a tube through which a shaft passes,
on one end of this shaft I place a crown wheel on the shaft itself. The other part
of this cylinder is mounted on the tube through which the shaft passes. X Fig. 2.
is a lock spring at the other end of this arrangement and is for the purpose of the
weaver turning back the pattern chain without disturbing the crown wheel. This
crown wheel is actuated by a driver S Figs. 1 & 2 which is mounted on and
revolves with the longitudinal shaft G, Fig. 1, which driver can when required be
drawn back so that the motion of the cylinder can be suspended when required to
put more than one pick in a shed, by means of lever T, Fig. 1, and supplementary
patterm chain P; also, when it is required to work first one kind of cloth and then
another, the part through which the needles fall can be caused to move or slide
from one row of holes in the pattern chain to another, by means of lever-T, Fig. 1.
The shaft G, Fig. 1, is placed at right angles to the pattern cylinder and receives
its motion from one of the lower shafts of the loom by means of a chain W¹ and

page_text: toothed wheel W, Fig. 1. On one or both ends of this shaft I place a driver wheel
or clutch V which revolves with the shaft G and communicates an intermittant
motion to a star wheel U Fig. 1, which actuates a chain of cams or rack, for the
purpose of raising or lowering the movable shuttleboxes X, through the medium of
lever and rod B Fig. 1. When double pile is being woven as shewn in Fig. 3,
I place a novel comb 4, Figs. 3 & 4, the whole length of the piece, the front part of
which is twice as deep as the back part. This comb is fixed rigidly and on the top
I place a cutting plate 5, which cutting plate has a quick intermittant motion
imparted to it by a tappet or cam fixed on any convenient part of the loom and
attached to link 6, Fig. 5, by this means the two cloths are completely and
expeditiously severed and are taken away by rollers 7 & 7¹, Fig. 3.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of iny said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is
First. The novel mode of cutting or seperating velvets when woven face to face,
substantially as herinbefore described and illustrated in the accompanying sheet of
drawings.
Second. The novel mode of mounting the pattern cylinder, or a tube and shaft
combined, substantially as described and illustrated.
Third. The novel mode of actuating or sliding the drivers S and the needle board
by means of levers T and T through the supplementary chain P, substantially as
described and illustrated.
Fourth. The novel mode of obtaining a forward and receding motion of the cross
bars by means of combined levers E, H & J Fig. 2 substantially as described and
illustrated.
Fifth. The novel mode of actuating movable shuttle boxes X at one or both ends
of the slay in connection with the shedding machine substantially as described and
illustrated in the accompanying sheet of drawings.