IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY FOR SEWING AND EMBROIDERING
Year: 1865

page_text: PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by George Mumby at the Office
of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 26th April
1865.
I, GEORGE MUMBY, of Wareham Street, Hoxton, in the County of Middle-
sex, Mechanical Draughtsman, do hereby declare the nature of the said
Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY FOR SEWING AND EMBROIDERING," to
be as follows:-
My said Invention relates specially to improvements on the shuttle or
"lock-stitch" sewing machine, for which Letters Patent were granted to
William Frederick Thomas, and dated the 14th September 1855, No. 2079,
parts of these improvements however may be applied to other descriptions of
sewing machines, as herein-after described.
The improvements consist, firstly, in sewing button holes and the edges of
garments or materials so as to imitate the stitch of the button bole made by
hand in a more practical and effective manner than hitherto, and which is
accomplished by giving to the foot of the "feeder," in addition to the ordinary
feed, a lateral reciprocating motion, in combination with an "expander," or
instrument for keeping the button hole open whilst in the act of sewing, and
preventing the edges being sewn together. The "expander" is made to
enter a recess when necessary by the pressure of the "feeder" on the cloth or

page_text: other material, or it may be removed and the operation otherwise assisted by
the bands.
Secondly, in embroidering cloth or other material by forming parallel or
angular stitches to the desired pattern or design by means of self-acting
mechanism, and in such a manner that the silk or other kind of thread, instead
of being wholly or partially on both sides of the material as hitherto practised
is employed only on one side, an inferior description of thread being used on
the other, whereby an economy of silk or other embroidering material is
obtained. This improvement is effected by the application to the machine
of a modification of the apparatus for sewing button holes, and which modifi-
cation consists in the employment of a link motion in combination with a
grooved pattern plate or template for giving a lateral and differential feed
movement to the "feeder" in addition to the ordinary feed, so that stitches
of variable width (determined by the design of the pattern plate) may be made.
Button holes and the edges of garments or materials may also be sewn by this
arrangement of apparatus.
Thirdly, in substituting a spring of vulcanized india-rubber or other
elastic material for the steel spring employed to move the "feeder" forward
a stitch at a time, by which means a saving of labour and expense is
effected.
Fourthly, in the application to the shuttle arm of the machine of apparatus
for forming either the "single" or "double thread or chain stitch," so as to
enable the seams of sleeves and other tubular work to be sewn with the
"knotted" or "double thread stitch." The apparatus being adjustable, either
the above stitches or the "lock" or "shuttle stitch" may be used at pleasure,
or the machine may be constructed exclusively with my improvement. In
carrying out this improvement a spring rod forming the lower needle is
attached when required to the shuttle rod or driver, and is employed in
combination with a curved looper which opens the loop formed by the upper
needle by coming in contact with a stationary stud or pin, or other suitable
The aforesaid rod receives a horizontal reciprocating as well as a
backward and forward movement, so as to enter the loop of the vertical
needle inside the shuttle box, and at the proper time is made to recede to
ensure the upper needle entering the loop or loops of the lower needle by the
traverse of the shuttle rod or driver actuated by a grooved cam or other
mechanical movement. The above described apparatus is a simple mode of
forming the "single" or "double thread or chain stitch," and may be adapted
to other descriptions of sewing machines. The slack thread is taken up by
the aid of springs, or other suitable means.
means.

page_text: Fifthly, in the peculiar construction of the feed apparatus of those machines
in which a rotary foot or "feeder" is employed, whereby greater facility in
working the feeder and regulating the length of stitch is obtained than
hitherto. Underneath the head of the arm in which the upper needle works
is fixed a cylinder supporting the feeding mechanism, consisting of a rotating
frame partly cylindrical and carrying the "feeder," which works in a groove
or recess, as in "Thomas"" machine, and receives similar motions. The foot
is advanced by means of an india-rubber or other spring and feeds the material
on the ascent of the vertical needle by means of a bent lever fitted with a screw
rod and nuts for adjusting the length of the stitch. This bent lever is actuated
by another lever having a flat annular extremity which presses upon the
aforesaid bent lever by the action of a cam on the main axis. A spring is
employed to give the requisite pressure on the feeder as it rotates, and the
pressure is removed when the "feeder" is advanced by a bent lever acted
upon by another cam on the main axis or spindle. Instead of moving the
material by the hand, as in ordinary sewing machines, the "feeder" receives
at pleasure a circular motion, so as to feed the material to any desired radius,
at the same time having a backward and forward motion. By this compound
action straight, curved, or circular seams or series of stitches may be made
with the greatest facility, and is especially adapted for sewing ornamental
curved work on materials of considerable length or size. The motions of the
needle and other parts are effected in the ordinary manner.