THE MANUFACTURE OF FLEXIBLE STRIPS OR PIECES FOR STRENGTHENING STAYS OR CORSETS AND OTHER LIKE ARTICLES
Year: 1881

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Rudolph Auerbach, of Old Broad Street, in the City of
London, Merchant, for an Invention of "THE MANUFACTURE OF FLEXIBLE
STRIPS OR PIECES FOR STRENGTHENING STAYS OR CORSETS AND OTHER LIKE
ARTICLES."
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Rudolph Auerbach at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 13th July 1881.
RUDOLPH AUERBACH, of Old Broad Street, in the City of London, Merchant.
"THE MANUFACTURE OF FLEXIBLE STRIPS OR PIECES FOR STRENGTHENING STAYS
OR CORSETS AND OTHER LIKE ARTICLES."
My present Invention relates to the manufacture of strips or pieces composed
partly of metal and partly of fibrous or other material, or composed entirely of
imetal, the separate parts in both cases being arranged in a special or particular
manner to adapt the whole strip for use as a substitute for whalebone or similar
material in the manufacture of stays or corsets, riding habits, crinolines, and other
like articles.
The said Invention is designed partly to provide means for imparting increased
strength and elasticity to the strips of artificial whalebone manufactured according
to the Invention described in the Specification of former Letters Patent granted to
me, and dated the 16th July, A.D. 1880, No. 2943, but it may be advantageously
employed otherwise than in combination with the said artificial whalebone, as
hereinafter set forth.
The said Invention consists chiefly in providing strips or other pieces of metal
composed of separate layers of the same, and applying such strips or pieces in
combination with the aforesaid artificial whalebone, or with other suitable fibrous
or other material, in the manner hereinafter set forth; also in providing strips of
superposed layers of metal in such form as to be capable of being used without
combination with the said artificial whalebone or other material.
In carrying the said Invention into practice I combine the metal strips with the
said artificial whalebone or other material in the following manner, when the same
is to be used in the manufacture of stays or corsets or articles of a similar nature,
that is to say:-I provide two thin outer wires for strengthening and protecting
the edges, as described in my said former Specification, and within these wires I
place at suitable positions short pieces of metal, preferably iron or steel, composed of
two or more superposed pieces thereof, which may be flat, round, or of other shape,
and are united as hereinafter described. The length and position of these pieces
[ Price 6d 1

page_text: will vary according to the use to which the finished strip is designed to be applied,
but in most cases the ends of the strip will be provided with these metallic
layers to strengthen the same, and when the finished strips are designed to be
employed in the manufacture of stays or corsets, the centre of the strip will also
be so provided to give increased strength to the part which lies nearest to the waist,
and which is consequently subjected to the greatest strain. The width and
thickness of the separate layers of metal will necessarily vary according to the
desired width and thickness which are required in the finished piece.
The separate layers or pieces of metal are united by coating or dipping the same
in suitable emulsions or solutions of gelatinous, mucilaginous, viseid, or other
substances (or combinations of the same), such as are described in my said former
Specification for treating the fibrous materials therein mentioned, and when so
united are secured to the two edge wires by immersing the whole in, or otherwise
subjecting it to the action of, one or more of the same substances. The spaces left
open between the edge wires, and between the several strips or pieces of superposed
inetal, are supplied or filled up with the said artificial whalebone, or with paste-
board, leather, india-rubber, gutta-percha, vulcanized fibres, or any other suitable
similarly flexible material, after which the whole structure is repeatedly immersed
in the aforesaid or similar mucilaginous, gelatinous, viscid, or other substances in
solution. By these means the entire piece becomes compact and hard, although
very flexible, and may be exposed to atmospheric or similar influences without
becoming deteriorated. If found desirable, I may also pass the completed strips
through india-rubber solutions to render them waterproof, although the solutions
or emulsions already applied, as above stated, will ordinarily be found sufficient for
this purpose. Whether the india rubber solutions are or are not employed, the
strips made as above described are preferably enveloped or enclosed in some textile
or similar fabric or material to serve as an outer covering, and I prefer for this
purpose to use tape, thin cord, or thread, which is wound spirally around the strip,
and I prefer to place upon each end of the strip a cap or tip of some inoxidisable
metal, thus preventing the wires from slipping or protruding. After the strip has
been so covered, it may if desired be rolled between rollers or cylinders, or
subjected to the action of a press, to give a smooth and finished appearance to the
whole.
I find in practice that for stays or corsets, and for any similar articles subjected
to the same amount of strain, two layers of metal are sufficient, as the combination
of these two layers gives all the strength and elasticity required, and makes the
strip lighter than would be the case were the layers increased in number; but for
use with articles likely to be subjected to greater strain the number may be
increased according to requirements. The combination of the metal in separate
pieces or layers is of very considerable advantage in the construction of these strips,
as it provides greater strength and flexibility than would be possible if a solid picce
of metal of the same dimensions as those of the united layers were employed,
and it enables me to obtain strength and flexibility combined with lightness of
structure.
In some cases, instead of building up the combined strips in the manner above
described, I may first make the metallic strips of superposed layers in lengths of
considerable extent, and cut them by any suitable means to the desired lengths for
use, and strips so made may be used in place of whalebone or similar material
without combination with the said artificial whalebone or similar material, that is
to say, I may, after uniting the separate layers of metal as above described, cut the
same into suitable lengths, and cover these lengths with a wrapper or envelope of
tape or other material, placing the caps or tips on the ends, as hereinbefore
mentioned; or the covering or envelope may be applied before the lengths are
cut off. The whole may be rolled or pressed to impart smoothness or uniformity in
appearance.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said Rudolph Auerbach in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 13th January
1882.
RUDOLPII AUERBACH, of Old Broad Street, in the City of London, Merchant.
"THE MANUFACTURE OF FLEXIBLE STRIPS OR PIECES FOR STRENGTHENING STAYS
OR CORSETS AND OTHER LIKE ARTICLES."
My present Invention relates to the manufacture of elastic or flexible compound
strips or pieces composed partly of metal and partly of fibrous or other material, or
composed entirely of metal, the separate parts in both cases being arranged in a
special or particular manner to adapt the whole strip for use as a substitute for
whalebone or similar material in stays or corsets, riding habits, crinolines, and other
like articles.
The said Invention is designed partly to provide means for imparting increased
strength, durability, and elasticity or flexibility to strips of artificial whalebone,
such as those described in the Specification of former Letters Patent granted to
me, and dated the 16th July, A.D. 1880, No. 2943, but it may be advantageously
employed otherwise than in combination with the said artificial whalebone, as
hereinafter set forth.
My Invention is illustrated in the accompanying Drawing, in which
Figures 1, 2, and 3 are side views shewing partly the exterior and partly the
interior of the clastic or flexible strips.
Figure 1 shews a strip composed of external edge wires a, within which are
placed at suitable distances apart metal portions b and c (consisting of superposed
layers of thin metal), the spaces between which are filled with pulp, as hereinafter
described.
Figure 2 shews a strip consisting of superposed metal strips c¹ united with
mastic or other cement, and covered with paper and tin foil or other, suitable
material.
Figure 3 shews a strip, also consisting chiefly of the external or edge wires a
and superposed metal layers b, c, combined with artificial whalebone or other fibrous
inaterial.
The other Figures are transverse sections.
Like letters of reference indicate the same parts throughout the Drawing.
In carrying the said Invention into practice I combine the metal strips with the
said artificial whalebone or other material in the following manner, that is to say:-
In the examples shown in Figures 1 and 3 I provide two thin outer wires a for
strengthening and protecting the edges, as described in my said former Specification,
and within these wires I place in suitable positions the elastic strips b, c, of metal,
preferably iron or steel, composed of two or more superposed pieces of such metal
(which may be flat, round, or of other shape, but which is preferably the thin flat
material known as crinoline steel) united as hereinafter described. The length,
width, thickness, and position of these pieces will vary according to the use to
which the finished elastic compound strip is designed to be applied, but in most
cases the ends of the said strip will be provided with the said metallic plates or
layers, as shown at b, to strengthen the same, and when the finished strips are
designed to be employed in stays or corsets, the central portion of the strip will
also be provided with such metallic plates or layers, as shown at c, Figure 1, to give
increased strength and elasticity to the part which lies nearest to the waist when the
stays or corsets are worn, and which is consequently subjected to the greatest strain.
The width and thickness of the separate layers of this metal will necessarily vary
according to the width and thickness required in the finished strip or piece. The

page_text: separate layers or pieces of metal are preferably united by coating or dipping the
saine in suitable emulsions or solutions of gelatinous, mucilaginous, viscid, or other
substances (or combinations of the same), such as are described in my said former
Specification for treating the fibrous materials therein mentioned, and when so
united are secured to the two edge wires a by immersing the whole in or
otherwise subjecting it to the action of one or more of the same substances.
The spaces at d between the two edge wires a, and between. the several strips
or picces b, c, of superposed metal, are supplied or filled up with the said
artificial whalebone, as shewn in Figure 3, or with pulp, as shewn in Figure 1,
or with paste-board, leather, india-rubber, gutta percha, vulcanized fibres, or
any other suitable flexible material; the whole structure is then repeatedly
immersed in the aforesaid or similar mucilaginous, gelatinous, viscid, or other
substances in solution. By these means the entire compound busk piece or strip
becomes compact and hard, although very flexible, and may be exposed to
atmospheric or similar influences without deterioration. If desirable
pass the said strips through shellac, india-rubber, or gutta percha solutions to render
them waterproof, although the solutions or emulsions already applied, as above
stated, will ordinarily be found effectual for this purpose. Whether these last india-
rubber or other solutions are or are not employed, the strips made as above
described are preferably enveloped or enclosed in some textile or similar fabric or
material, and I prefer for this purpose to use tape, thin cord, or thread, which is
wound spirally around the strip. In some instances I paste or cement on the sides.
of the strip small pieces of tape, similar to that shewn at fin Figure 1, to prevent
the displacement of the ends of the metal plates b and c. I prefer to place upon
each end of the strip a cap or tip, as shewn at e, of some inoxidizable metal, thus
preventing the slipping and protruding of the wires a at the ends of the strip.
After the strip has been so covered, it may if desired be passed between rollers or
cylinders, or subjected to the action of a press, to give it a smooth and finished
appearance.
may also
In the modification of my Invention illustrated in Figure 2 the edge wires are
dispensed with, and the strip consists of the superposed metal layers c' united by
shellac or similar material, and provided with a cover or envelope of "folio skin,"
tin foil, or both, or suitable material.
I find in practice that for stays or corsets and for any similar articles subjected to the
same amount of strain, two plates or layers of the aforesaid thin metal are sufficient,
as the combination of these two layers gives all the strength and elasticity required,
and makes the compound strip lighter than would be the case were the layers
increased in number; but if the said strips are to be used with articles likely to be
subjected to great strain, the number of such metal layers or plates may be increased.
The formation of the metal portions of the said strips in separate pieces or layers,
as above described, is very advantageous in the manufacture of these elastic or
flexible strips, as this method of construction enables me to obtain strength and
flexibility combined with lightness of structure.
In some cases, instead of building up the combined strips in the manner above
described, I may first make the metallic strips of superposed layers in sections or
lengths of considerable extent, and cut the same by any suitable means into pieces
of the required length for use, and strips so made may be used in place of whale-
bone or similar material without combination with the said artificial whalebone or
similar material, that is to say, I may after uniting the separate layers of flat metal,
as above described, cut the same into suitable lengths, and cover these lengths with
a wrapper or envelope of tape or other material, caps or tips e on the ends being
provided as herein before mentioned; or the covering or envelope may be
applied before the lengths are cut off. The whole structure may, as above stated,
be rolled or pressed to impart smoothness or uniformity of appearance to the same.
In cases where my improved flexible strips are required to be of extra strength I
construct the same as follows, that is to say:-
I attach to a strip of tinsel commonly called "plate wire," or to any very thin

page_text: flat metallic substance of any required width, and at such distances apart length-
wise as to correspond with the length of a series of the compound strips to be cut
therefrom, the aforesaid layers or flat metal pieces. One flat piece will be on the
upper side, and the other flat piece on the under side of the said plate-wire. The
flat metal pieces which are to constitute the middle of the strips I only slightly
attach to this plate wire, so that their elasticity may not be impaired.
This plate wire and the side wires may be wound on drums or otherwise arranged
to be continuously supplied or fed forward. I place the plate wire between the
two side wires in the position it is to occupy in the finished strips, and I draw by
any suitable means the three wires onto a winder, and while so doing coil and
fasten spirally around them thin plate wire or the like.
This operation completed I waterproof and cover the strips cut off, or subdivide
them and cap them.
For use in stays or corsets which have to be subjected to hot steaming, starching,
and ironing in the blocking process, and in those which have to withstand the
injurious influence of a highly heated atmosphere, as in ball rooms or when worn
in summer and in tropical climates, I prepare my improved strips as follows, that is
to say I employ as coverings two distinct materials, viz., one which I call "folio
skin," which I manufacture by the saturation of suitable papers (such, for instance,
as bank or tissue paper) in oil, either without the admixture of coloring matters, or
ground with such ingredients as will impart any required color thereto. The other
covering material consists of thin polished tin foil; this covering possesses the
property of firmly adhering to the shellac solutions, and is moreover a most efficient
non-conductor of heat, so that the strips or busks will afford a comfortable and
healthful coolness to the body.
These coverings may be applied to corset-strips, busks, crinoline-steels, strips for
military and riding habits, dress improvers, and the like. The said coverings,
besides being slow conductors of heat, hermetically close the said metal strips when
first covered with the aforesaid solutions, and are impervious to moisture, so that
they prevent corrosion and slackness of the strips, and afford an unusual amount
of support to the body of the wearers of stays or corsets provided with the
same.
For better securing the superposed layers of flat crinoline steel for riding or
military habits and other uses, I prefer covering them first with tin foil, and then
over this tin foil with the aforesaid prepared paper or "folio skin."
In order to expedite the manufacture of strips for stays and corsets I prefer to
use a kind of framework made of the several pieces of round and flat steel wires.
This result I effect by laying the side wires in such a position relatively to one
another as to allow them to receive between them at the ends and in the middle
the layers of superposed flat metal, as above described.
I may also manufacture frames of multiples of various lengths and widths of
strips by pasting the steel wires on strong paper pasted on a board. After having
filled in the open spaces between the middle and the end insertions of superposed
flat metal layers or pieces between the side wires with the said artificial whalebone
or with pulp made of wool shearings, cork, and gum emulsions, or other suitable
materials; and after completely drying and fixing the pulp or other material, I
release the paper board, then secure with tape or "plate wire " the steel layers or
insertions, and pass the combined strips through a solution of shellac, copal, or other
resinous matters, or india rubber solution, to render the article waterproof. I then
subdivide these combined strips into single ones, and then I cover them spirally
with any suitable material or materials, as above specified.
Having thus fully described my said Invention, and the manner of performing
the same, I wish it understood that I claim,
The manufacture of flexible or elastic strips, consisting of superposed thin elastic
metal layers or plates united by the aid of shellac or other suitable material, and
enclosed in an envelope or cover, substantially as shewn in Figure 2; or consisting
of such superposed layers and the fibrous, pulpy, or other like intermediate substance

page_text: bound or enclosed by wires along the edges, as shown in Figures 1 and 3 (and with
or without the spirally wound wire or tape, or the pieces of canvas or the like) the
whole being united by shellac or other suitable cement, and covered with prepared
paper or tin foil, or with both, or with other suitable materials, all substantially as
set forth and for the purposes specified.
In witness whereof, I, the said Rudolph Auerbach, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Twelfth day of January, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and eighty two.
RUDOLPH AUERBACH. (L.s.)