A NEW OR IMPROVED MANU- FACTURE OF FIGURED CLOTH
Year: 1885

page_text: We, JAMES KIRKMAN of 32 Blackburn Road, and WILLIAM TRISTRAM Cotton
Spinner and Manufacturer, Halliwell, both of Bolton in the County of Lancaster,
do hereby declare the nature of our Invention for "A NEW OR IMPROVED MANU-
FACTURE OF FIGURED CLOTH," to be as follows:-
This invention relates to a new or improved manufacture of figured cloth wherein
a degree of variety and effect are produced which are impossible in the ordinary
method of manufacturing fancy dress and other figured goods,
This cloth is to be known by name "Stella."
In making this cloth the loom is gaited with one or two jacquard machines, the
mounting being drawn into one or two comber boards and two threads can be tied
to the same hook in the machine, one thread from each coinber board working two
ends in each or alternate spaces of the reed.
In weaving small patterns we employ the "dobby" or index machine working
in conjunction with healds, with which two or more yarn beams and one or more
shuttles are employed.
One of the methods of manufacturing this cloth is performed by employing the
jacquard machine in conjunction with the loom, wherein all the yarn in the
mounting is provided from two beams, having three end in each space of the reed.
The mounting is tied to one side of the jacquard machine to work two ends, the
yarn being on a loose or yielding beam, and the mounting tied to the opposite
side of the jacquard machine to work the end supplied with yarn from an increased
tension beam. By this method of mounting the pattern is arranged so that all the
yarn from the loose or yielding beam is raised in the ground part of the cloth, also
such parts from both beams as required are raised to form the figure, the yarn
changing its position in the figure in each pick, then three picks are put in with
the yarn up to form the ground of the cloth. In the fourth pick two ends from
the loose or yielding beam are left down in alternate dents, when all the yarn
from the increased tension beam is raised in the ground to tie or stitch that left
down; three more picks are again put in as before with the yarn up to form the
ground. In the eighth pick the yarn from the loose or yielding beam that was up
in the ground in the fourth pick is left down and all the yarn from the increased
tension beam is raised in the ground of the cloth to stitch that left down in
this pick.

page_text: Another method of manufacturing this cloth to produce a different effect to that
before described is performed by leaving four ends down to be stitched instead of
two, and the number of picks are varied as well as the number of ends before they
are stitched in the pattern, and the method of forming the ground of the cloth
before described is employed in this to form the figure part as well.
In making this cloth with two shuttles coarse and fine "weft" are used to make
the stitch or indentation in the ground part, which without any alteration in the
loom and by simply arranging 'the pattern the figure is woven on a flat ground in
lieu of its being raised as in the above.
In making this cloth with healds working in conjunction with the jacquard
machine the mounting yarn for the latter is obtained from the loose or yielding
beam, and the yarn for the healds from the increased tension beam. A similar
effect can be obtained on the ground part of the cloth by tieing or stitching two
ends in alternate spaces of the reed, or in the same space.
All the "weft" can be put in the figure of the cloth when made with a flat or
plain ground, and the yarn is raised from the increased tension beam in the figure
in such order as to prevent creases being made. When the cloth is made with a
raised ground one part is sunk round the figure.
We, JAMES KIRKMAN of 32 Blackburn Road, and WILLIAM TRISTRAM Cotton
Spinner and Manufacturer, Halliwell, both of Bolton in the County of Lancaster,
do hereby declare the nature of our said Invention for "A NEW OR IMPROVED
MANUFACTURE OF FIGURED CLOTH," and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:-
This invention relates to a new or improved manufacture of figured cloth wherein
a degree of variety and effect are produced which are impossible in the ordinary
method of manufacturing fancy dress and other figured goods.
This cloth is to be known by name "Stella.".
In order that our invention may be better understood and carried into effect we
will now proceed to describe as follows:-
:
In making this cloth the loom is gaited with one or two jacquard machines, the
mounting being drawn into one or two comber boards and two threads can be tied
to the same hook in the machine, one thread from each comber board working two
ends in each or alternate spaces of the reed.
.. ☺

page_text: In weaving small patterns we employ the "dobby" or index machine working
in conjunction with healds, with which two or more yarn beams and one or more
shuttles are employed.
One of the methods of manufacturing this cloth is performed by employing the.
jacquard machine in conjunction with the loom, wherein all the yarn in the
mounting is provided from two beams having three ends in each space of the reed.
The mounting is tied to one side of the jacquard machine to work two ends, the
yarn being on a loose or yielding beam, and the mounting tied to the opposite side,
of the jacquard machine to work the end supplied with yarn from an increased-
tension beam. By this method of mounting the pattern is arranged so that all the
yarn from the loose or yielding beam is raised in the ground part of the cloth, also
such parts from both beans as required are raised to form the figure, the yarn
changing its position in the figure in each pick, then three picks are put in with.
the yarn up to form the ground of the cloth. In the fourth pick two ends from
the loose or yielding beam are left down in alternate dents, when all the yarn
from the increased tension beam is raised in the ground to tie or stitch that left
down, three more picks are again put in as before with the yarn up to form the
ground. In the eighth pick the yarn from the loose or yielding beam that was up:
in the ground in the fourth pick is left down and all the yarn from the increased
tension beam is raised in the ground of the cloth to stitch that left down in.
this pick.
}
Another method of manufacturing this cloth to produce a different effect to that
before described is performed by leaving four ends down to be stitched instead of
two, and the number of picks are varied as well as the number of ends before they.
are stitched in the pattern, and the method of forming the ground of the cloth
before described is employed in this to form the figure part as well.
"
In making this cloth with two shuttles coarse and fine "weft are used to make
the stitch or indentation in the ground part, which without any alteration in the
loom and by simply arranging the pattern the figure is woven on a flat ground
in lieu of its being raised as in the above.
In making this cloth with healds working in conjunction with the jacquard
machine the mounting yarn for the latter is obtained from the loose or yielding.
beam and the yarn for the healds from the increased tension beam. A similar'
effect can be obtained on the ground part of the cloth by tieing or stitching two.
ends in alternate spaces of the reed, or in the same space.
or
All the "weft" can be put in the figure of the cloth when made with a flat
plain ground, and the yarn is raised from the increased tension beam in the figure
in such order as, to prevent creases being made. When the cloth is made with a
raised ground one part is sunk round the figure.
"
.
The method of making cloth on the above principle with two shuttles is as
follows: All the mounting yarn from the loose or yielding beam is raised in the
ground part of the cloth, then two picks of coarse "weft are put in to form the:
figure with the mounting yarn from the loose or yielding beam raised: in the
ground, the third and fourth picks are then put in with fine "weft" with one, two,
or more ends up in alternate spaces of the reed in the ground part of the cloth
whilst the yarn on the increased tension beam is working tabby. Two more.picks
of coarse "weft" are then put in as before, then the seventh and eighth picks are
put in with fine weft" and the ends that were up in the third and fourth picks
are left down in the ground to be tied or stitched with the fine "weft." The yarn.
so stitched being from the loose or yielding beam makes a deep stitch or inden-:
tation in the ground part of the cloth."
The figure can be plain or brocade and can be made in the ordinary jacquard
loom with healds working the yarn from the fast or increased tension beam when
the stitch or indentation is made. The pattern can be arranged so that what
forms the ground part of the cloth in the above may form the figure of the cloth
in another. When coarse yarn is used on the loose or yielding beam coarse or
heavy cloth can be made with one shuttle.
..... J

page_text: In making this cloth with a plain ground all the yarn from the fast or increased
tension beam is raised in the ground part of the cloth, the yarn being raised in the
figure of the cloth and in the ground on the back side of the cloth from the loose
or yielding beam working tabby. 'One pick is put in this "shed," for the second
pick the same tabby yarn in the figure is raised as before from the loose or yielding
beam being left down in the ground on the back side of the cloth, and the yarn
from the fast or increased tension beam is raised to form tabby in the ground part
of the cloth. For the third pick the tabby yarn in figure from the loose or
yielding beam that was down in the last two picks is raised, then all the yarn
forming the ground part of the cloth is raised from the increased tension beam and
the yarn from the loose or yielding beam in the ground on the back side is tabby.
For the fourth pick the same tabby yarn is raised in the figure as in the third
pick and the yarn in the ground part from the increased tension beam that was
left down in the second pick is working tabby. One end from the increased
tension beam is raised in different or alternate spaces of the reed in the figure of
the cloth to prevent creases, and one end of the yarn is left down from the
increased tension beam in the fourth tabby pick in the ground part of the cloth in
such order as to tie the back and face of the cloth together.
All the yarn from the increased tension beam in the ground part of the cloth
can be raised more than one pick before the tabby pick is put in, and more than
one tabby pick can be put in when working tabby from the increased tension
beam in the ground part of the cloth.
The above method of shading a cloth with two shuttles is made one with coarse
"weft" and one with fine "weft" without changing the pattern or cards, two
picks of coarse weft are put in when the yarn is raised in the ground part of the
cloth, and two fine picks are put in with the two tabby picks that change the
tabby in the figure and tabby in the ground from the increased tension beam.
To make it more plain in the one shuttle cloth one tabby is employed for two
picks or four picks before the ordinary tabby or plain cloth is made with two
picks, the fine "weft" is then put in with the last tabby that was up and the first
in the next tabby and is overlayed with the coarse "weft" in the figure of the
cloth, which enables the cards to be used for both one and two shuttle cloth.
In order that our Invention may be fully understood we append a sheet of
diagrams.
Fig. 1 is a diagram of one modification of our Invention wherein the yarn
working the figure part of the cloth is supplied from the loose or yielding and the
fast or increased tension beams with three ends in a dent in the following
manner: The warp threads 1, 4, 7, 10, and so on are supplied from the increased
tension beam, and the warp threads 2 & 3, 5 & 6, 8 & 9, and so on are supplied
from the loose or yielding beam.
Fig. 2 is a diagram showing the method of working the ground part of the cloth
in conjunction with that in Fig. 1 for the figure with three ends in a dent as
follows: The warp threads 1, 4, 7, 10, and so on are supplied from the increased
tension beam, the warp threads 2 & 3, 5 & 6, 8 & 9, and so on being supplied from
the loose or yielding beam.
Fig. 3 is a diagram showing another method of forming the figure of the cloth
made according to this invention, wherein the yarn is supplied from both beams
with three ends in a dent. The warp threads 1, 4, 7, 10, and so on being from the
increased tension beam, the warp threads 2 & 3, 5 & 6, 8 & 9, and so on being
from the loose or yielding beam.
Fig. 4 is a diagram showing the method of working the ground part of the cloth
with that in Fig. 3 for the figure with three ends in a dent. The warp threads 1,
4, 7, 10, and so on are from the increased tension beam, the warp threads 2 & 3,
5 & 6, 8 & 9, and so on being from the loose or yielding beam.
Fig. 5 is a diagram showing the method of forming the figure of the cloth, the
yarn being supplied from the loose or yielding and the fast or increased tension
beams; the warp threads 1, 4, 7, 10, and so on being from the increased tension

page_text: beam, and the warp threads 2 & 3, 5 & 6, 8 & 9, and so on being from the loose or
yielding beam.
Fig. 6 is a diagram showing the method of working the ground part of the cloth
with that in Fig. 5 for the figure with three ends in a dent. The warp threads 1,
4, 7, 10, and so on are from the increased tension beam, the warp threads 2 & 3,
5 & 6, 8 & 9, and so on being from the loose or yielding beam.
Fig. 7 is a diagram of another modification of our Invention wherein the yarn
working to form the figure part of the cloth is supplied from both beams with.
three ends in a dent. The warp threads 1, 4, 7, 10, and so on are from the loose
or yielding beam, and the warp threads 2 & 3, 5 & 6, 8 & 9, and so on are from
the fast or.increased tension beam.
Fig. 8 is a diagram showing the yarn working to form the ground part of the
cloth with that in Fig. 7 for the figure, being supplied from both beams with three
ends in a dent. The warp threads 1, 4, 7, 10, and so on being supplied from the
fast or increased tension beam, the warp threads 2 & 3, 5 & 6, 8 & 9, and so on
being from the loose or yielding beam.
The X on the diagrams indicate the order in which the warp threads are raised.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said
Invention and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what
we claim is:-
The manufacture of the "Stella" figured cloth, with the various methods of
picking in looms with one or more shuttles, substantially in the manner herein
described and set forth, or any mere modification of the same.
EDMUND CHADWICK,
Agent for Applicants.