Improvements in Button-hole Sewing Machines.
Year: 1892

page_text: Date of Application, 26th Apr., 1892--Accepted, 5th Nov., 1892
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
[Communicated from abroad by THE SINGER MANUFACTURING COMPANY, of
New York, in the United States of America, Sewing Machine Manufacturers.]
Improvements in Button-hole Sewing Machines.
I, ALEXANDER ANDERSON, Manager of The Singer Manufacturing
Company's Works, Kilbowie, Dumbartonshire, do hereby declare the nature of
this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed (as communicated
to me) to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement :-
My invention has for its object to produce a button-hole sewing machine by which
a shoe button-hole flap or other piece of material to have a series of button-holes
worked therein, may be presented to the stitch-forming mechanism of the machine
and automatically fed from one button-hole to another for any desired number of
holes; the button-hole slits being preferably automatically cut and the machine
being preferably automatically stopped when a predetermined number of button-
holes has been completed.
In carrying my invention into effect the button-hole flap or other piece of work
in which the button-holes are to be formed is preferably carried by a suitable
work-holder which, with the button-hole piece secured thereto, is automatically fed
along to space the button-holes; the work immediately adjacent to each button-
hole successively to be worked being held by clamping feet which are automatically
lowered on to the material (this being done just as the button-hole is cut, when an
automatic cutter is used) and which are automatically lifted from the material when
the stitching of the button-hole is completed to release the work to permit the
latter to be fed along to bring it into position for the next succeeding button-hole.
My invention is preferably applied to a button-hole machine provided with a
barring mechanism which finishes the end of each button-hole when it has been
otherwise completed; so that when the operator has placed a button-hole piece on
the work-holder and has started the machine with the said work-holder in position
the entire series of holes for the said button-hole piece may be cut, stitched and
barred; and thus the button-hole work of the said piece be fully completed,
without further attention on the part of the operator, the machine being preferably
automatically stopped when a predetermined number of button-holes has been
worked, as hereinbefore stated.
When a button-hole has been completed, and the button-hole piece is to be fed
along for the next button-hole the tension on the button-hole threads is preferably
automatically released, to avoid danger of breaking the said threads or of springing
the needle, and at the same time and for the same purpose the needle thread is
preferably slightly unwound or drawn from the spool.
In the accompanying drawings
Fig. 1 is a sectional side view of a button-hole sewing machine embodying my
invention.
Fig. 2 is a plan view of the work-plate of the same, the arm being removed to
show the parts beneath.
Figs. 3 and 4 are front end views, partly in section, of my improved machine,
and Fig. 5 is a partial bottom view thereof.
Figs. 6 and 7 are partial detail views to show the work-holder guiding and feeding
devices.
Fig. 8 is a section on line 8-8, and Fig. 9 a section on line 9-9 Fig. 6.
Fig. 10 is a detail plan view of the work-holder.

page_text: Fig. 11 is a partial plan view of the arm of the machine showing the spool
holder and tension device therefor.
Figs. 12, 13, 14, 15 and 16 are detail views of the governing devices for the
stopping mechanism.
Figs. 17 and 18 are detail views of the stopping mechanism.
Fig. 19 is a plan view of the work-plate and connected parts.
Fig. 20 is a detail view showing the clamp returning dog and adjacent parts.
Fig. 21 shows a portion of the clamp returning ring and Fig. 22 is a detail of the
gear and cam forming part of the stopping mechanism.
Fig. 23 is a detail view of the cutter-carrying block and adjacent parts.
Fig. 24 is a cross sectional detail showing the support and bearings for the cutter
block.
Figs. 25 and 26 are detail views of the lower tension and its releasing
mechanism.
Figs. 27 and 28 are detail views showing the pivotally-connected stopping bar
and setting lever separated from each other.
In the drawings A denotes the arm and B the work-plate of a well-known
form of button-hole sewing machine having journalled in the upper part of said
arm the driving shaft 2 geared to the vertical shaft 3 which rotates once to two
revolutions of said driving shaft and which carries at its lower end beneath the
said work-plate the clamp-feeding and looper-operating cam and which is also
provided, inside of the vertical part of the said arm, with a cam 5 to operate
the lever 6 connected by the rod 7 with the swinging frame 8 in which the
needle bar 9 reciprocates vertically as fully shown and described in the Speci-
fication of U.S. Patent No. 272,126, the to and fro or horizontal movements of the
needle being utilized to form overedge or button-hole stitches in a well-known
manner. The shaft 2 is provided with the usual flywheel 10, secured thereto, and
with the pulley wheel 11 loose on said shaft but arranged to be frictionally pressed
against said fly-wheel by the clutch lever 12 when motion is to be imparted to said
sbaft, said clutch lever having the usual brake e to arrest the motion of the said
pulley wheel and shaft when the said clutch lever is released.
Journalled beneath the work-plate B in suitable standards is a second driving
or power shaft C from which the button-hole cutting mechanism, the work-holder
feeding mechanism, the work-holder feed stopping mechanism, the tension releasing
and thread slackening mechanisms, and the mechanism for depressing and releasing
the clamping feet are operated, all as will presently be described.
Mounted loosely on the shaft C is a pulley 13 having a hub 14 provided with a cam
groove 15 entered by a pin 16 carried by a slide 17 movable freely back and forth on
the said shaft C and serving to operate the stopping and starting mechanisms, as will
presently appear; the said pulley 13 being connected with the wheel 18 on said
shaft by means of a pin or projection 19 on the inside of the pulley rim 13 and
arranged to be engaged by a dog 20 carried by said wheel 18 and forced outward
by a suitable spring 21 so as to engage said pin or projection when said shaft is to
be rotated.
Secured to the shaft C is a hevel gear 22 meshing with a larger bevel gear 23 on
the lower end of a cutter-operating shaft 24 provided near its upper end with an
arm 25 preferably furnished with a roller 26. 27 is a sliding rod recessed at its
rear end to form a shoulder 28 to be engaged by said arm 25 or the roller 26
carried thereby said rod being normally held in the position shown in Fig. 1 by
a spring 29 which serves to retract said rod after it has been forced forward by the 5
said arm or roller to operate the cutter. To the forward end of the rod 27 are
jointed two links 30 and 31 forming a toggle, the link 30 being pivoted at its upper
end to a fixed part of the head at the forward end of the arm A and the link 31
being jointed at its lower end to a vertically sliding cntter-operating bar 32. A
stiff-plate spring / bears against said toggle to assist the spring 29 in forcing the 5
toggle links out of vertical position when a button-hole has been cut. The cutter 33
а

page_text: is preferably mounted on the work clamp in a manner to be hereinafter described
and the bar 32 is, in such case, provided with a suitable projection 34 to operate
the said cutter; said projection being preferably adjustably attached to said bar
by being formed on a collar 35 held between nuts 36 screwed into the lower end of
said bar.
The work-clamp D is mounted on the plate 37 provided with the usual guiding
slot 38 through which the feeding pin 39 extends into the feeding groove 40 in the
feed wheel 41 operated from the lever 42 in a well known manner.
To the clamp base plate d is rigidly secured the block or standard 43 through
which the feeding pin 39 passes, said block or standard being provided at its top
with ears 44 to which, by a pin 44', is pivoted a lever 45 having depending arms 45'
stradling said block or standard and connected by links 46 and 47 with the rear
ends of levers 48 carrying at their forward ends the clamping feet 49.
The clamping levers 48 are pivoted to small standards 50 attached to the work
holder supporting plate 51; suitable springs 52 arranged beneath the forward arms
of the said levers serving to lift said clamping feet when the work is to be released.
The lever 45 is arranged beneath an arm 63 projecting from the collar 35 carried
by the cutter-operating bar 32 so that when the said bar descends to actuate the
cutter 33 the said lever 45 will be depressed thereby moving the lower ends of
the links 47 rearward and up inclines formed on blocks 53 attached to the block
or standard 43 and thus depressing the clamping feet carried at the forward ends
of the levers 48; this operation of the said levers 48 being due to the connection of
the rear ends thereof with the arms 45' through the links 46 and 47; the latter
links being pivoted at their upper ends to said clamping levers so that when said
links 47 are drawn to the vertical position shown in Fig. 3 the clamping feet 49
will be held against the work until released as will hereinafter be described.
The cutter 33 is carried by a block 54 provided with rearwardly extending
arms 55 having guide slots 56 entered by screws or pins 57 carried by a U-shaped
block 58 embracing the forward portion of the clamp block or standard 43; the
said block or standard 43 and the other parts of the clamp, as well as the work-
holder supporting plate connected therewith, being thus movable relative to the
block 58 and the cutter. The cutter-carrying block 54 is provided with a hori-
zontal stud or roller 54' (see Figs. 4 and 23) held in contact with an incline or
cam edge 56' formed on the block 58, by springs 55¹ the free ends of which engage
the said arms 55. From this construction it results that when the cutter-carrying
block 54 is depressed the cutter will move forward so that its point or forward end
comes closely adjacent to the needle. In other words the button-hole slit formed
by the cutter will be in proper position for the commencement of the stitch
forming operation as soon as said slit is made without any forward feeding of the
work; and thus there will be no time lost between the cutting and the stitching
operations.
When the cutter-operating bar rises the cutter is lifted and returned to its first
position by the springs 55' attached to the blocks 58 and engaging the arms 55 of
the cutter-carrying block 54.
The anvil or cutting block is formed partly on the clamp guiding button 59 and
partly by a plate 60 attached to a forward extension 61 of the block 58; said
extension fitting in a suitable steadying slot formed in the clamp base plate d, and
being recessed at its sides beneath to form suitable supporting shoulders 62 resting
on corresponding shoulders formed on the clamp base plate d. Thus the said base
plate d affords a suitable resistance for the cutting pressure without forcing any
portion of the cutter supporting block into contact with the clamp guiding
block 37.
The forward end of the lower portion of the extension 61 is rounded to form a
bearing against the rounded bearing surface of the guiding button 59 when the
clamp is being turned to stitch the eyes of the button-holes; said button being
carried by a sliding plate 63 and being thus adapted to be moved laterally as
described in the Specification of U.S. Patent No. 36",434 for the purpose of

page_text: forming barring stitches at the ends of the button-holes. The clamp base-plate d
is pressed against the guiding button 59 in the usual manner by a guide roll or
guide I carried by a spring-pressed slide I recessed in the work-plate B.
Surrounding the guiding button 59 on the sliding plate 63 is a circular raised
portion or boss 64 the top of which is on a level with the upper surface of the
clamp guiding plate 37 in which latter is formed a circular opening 65 larger than
said boss leaving between the outer walls of the latter and the inner wall of the
said opening an annular space which loosely receives a pin 66 projecting below the
bottom of the extension 61.
When a button-hole is to be cut it is necessary that the plate 61 forming part
of the cutting block should be in close contact with that part of the guiding
button 59 which forms the other part of said cutting block; but a certain looseness
between the bearing afforded by the rounded forward end of the extension 61 and
the bearing portion of the guiding button is necessary at the times of the beginning
and ending of the stitching of the eye of a button-hole to permit of the slight
lateral or free movements of the clamp necessary to form a properly rounded eye.
To provide means for holding the extension 61 forward against the guiding button
to bring the two parts of the cutting block together when a button-hole is to be
cut, an opening 67 is formed at one side of the circular opening 65, said opening
receiving a block 68 carried at the forward or inner end of a sliding plate 69 in a
groove formed on the under-side of the plate 37; said block being formed with an
inclined side arranged to be engaged by the pin 66, and the said pin riding up said
inclined side as the clamp is being returned to its starting point after the com-
pletion of the button-hole, as will be described presently. As the said pin rides
up said inclined side of said block it serves to press the extension 61 and the
plate 60 carried thereby forward against the guiding button at the moment of the
cutting operation. The sliding plate 69 is provided on its under side near its outer
end with a pin 70 received in a cam groove 71 formed in the upper face of the
feeding wheel 41; the cam portion of the said groove being so arranged as to
move the said sliding plate inward just before a button-hole is completed, said plate
being then so placed that when the clamp has been returned to its starting point
the pin 66 will have reached the top of the incline and is there held while the
cutter is operated and while the stitching mechanism is at rest, as will be described
further on.
As soon as the stitching mechanism is again started and the feed
wheel 41 begins to rotate the cam groove 71 draws the sliding plate 69 outward
and permits the pin 66 to drop into the notch 72 formed in the block 68 beyond
the incline; thus loosening the extension 61 from close contact with the guiding
button so that when the clamp is to be turned for stitching the eye of a button-hole
proper free movements of the parts will be afforded, as above stated.
To the shaft C is secured the bevel gear 73 meshing with a bevel gear 74 on a
spindle 75 the upper end of which is provided with a gear wheel 76 (see Fig. 2)
meshing with a toothed clamp-returning ring 77 surrounding the feed-wheel 41
and suitably mounted in a circular recess in the work-plate. As will presently be
further described the shaft C is in rotation only when the driving shaft 2, which
operates the stitching mechanism and the feeding wheel, is at rest; and when a
button-hole has been stitched and barred the work clamp will be in the position
shewn in Fig. 2. The clamp guiding plate 37 is provided near its outer edge with
a semi-circular slot 78, and as soon as the stitching and barring of a button-hole
are completed and the stitching mechanism and feeding wheel are stopped a pin 79
beneath the work plate and operated by mechanism to be presently described, is
forced upward, and as the clamp feeding pin 39 is at this moment directly above
the said pin 79 said feeding pin is lifted from the cam groove 40 of the feeding
wheel 41, thus leaving the clamp free to be returned to its stitch-forming starting
position.
When the said clamp feeding pin 39, is thus lifted, its upper end strikes that 5
part of the lever 45 which is above it, thus lifting said lever 45 to the position
shown in Fig. 4, and as the said lever is connected by the links 46 and 47 with

page_text: the clamping levers 48, as hereinbefore described, this movement of the lever 45
will release the clamping feet 49 from the work.
The pin 39 engages the forked inner end of a lever 80 pivoted on the pin 44' on
the clamp block or standard 43; said lever at its outer end being forked to engage
a clamp returning pin 81 so that as the said feeding pin 39 is lifted the said pin 81
will be depressed through the slot 78 and into the path of movement of the tail of
a dog or lever 83 pivoted to the clamp returning ring 77; said tail being held in
position to engage said pin by a spring 84. As the said ring starts forward to
return the clamp the tendency of the tail of the dog to move inward against the
pressure of said spring is resisted by the inner circular wall of the recess in which
the ring revolves; said wall being engaged by the forward end 85 of the said dog
which forward end extends through recess formed in the upper face of the periphery
of said ring, when the pin 81 is engaged by the tail of the dog. When the ring 77
has perforined a half revolution the forward end 85 of the dog will be opposite a
recess 86 formed in the work-plate and as the pin 81 strikes the end of the semi-
circular slot 78 in the plate 37 the tail 82 of the dog is forced inward, thus
permitting the said pin to be disengaged therefrom; said pin being then imme-
diately lifted from the clamp-returning ring and the slot 78 by the incline 87
formed on said ring and by the spring 88 acting on the lever 80 and serving now
to depress the clamp feeding pin into the cam groove of the feeding wheel.
As the clamp is approaching its stitch-forming starting position and just before
the pin 81 is lifted from the clamp returning ring a projection 89 at the outer or
rear end of the clamp strikes a pivoted spring catch 90 attached to the work-plate ;
said catch yielding and then immediately springing back to engage said projection
and hold the clamp in position for the commencement of the stitching operation.
When the clamp-feeding pin 39 is lifted, as above described, any tendency of the
rear part of the clamp to rise is resisted by the engagement of the projection 89
with the under surface of the curved plate 172 overlying said projection; the clamp
being held down forward of its feeding pin by the flanged guiding button 59 in the
usual manner. Should the spring 88 fail to fully depress the clamp feeding pin
and lift the clamp returning pin 81 from the slot 78 the clamping lever 45, when
depressed by the arm 52 carried by the cutter-operating bar 32, will positively
force said piu 39 down into the groove of the feeding wheel, and, acting through
the lever 80 will also positively lift the pin 81 so that the clamp will be free to be
moved by the feeding wheel.
The leading feature of my invention is an automatic feeding mechanism by
which a shoe flap or other piece of work in which a series of button holes are to be
formed is automatically fed forward to bring the work into position to form a new
button-hole while the clamp is being returned to its first or starting position after
the completion of the preceding button-hole, and this feature of my invention will
now be described. E denotes a work-holder consisting, as herein shown, of a
skeleton templet plate curved to conform to the general shape of the button-hole
flap in which button-holes are to be worked, the said plate having a series of
teeth e on one edge thereof.
From the outer portion of the work-holder a series of fingers 91 project
inwardly but not entirely across the space between the inner and outer rim
portions of the holder, these fingers being each provided with a clamping device
consisting; as herein shewn, of a spring hook 92 beneath which the work is held
as shown in Fig. 2. As the curvature of the particular form of button-hole flap
for which this holder is intended is not in the true arc of a circle the curvature of
the holder is correspondingly irregular and it is therefore necessary to hold and
guide the said holder in such a manner that the button holes may be syminetrically
placed so as to radiate approximately from a common centre. The work-holder
supporting-plate 51, attached to (and thus movable with) the clamp base plate d, is
provided with guides consisting, as herein shown, of a plate 93 having a small
lip 94 slightly overhanging the outer edge of the work-lolder, to guide said holder
at its outer edge. To hold and guide the inner edge of the work-holder I provide

page_text: two spring-pressed slides 95 and 96 morable in suitable ways 97 attached to the
plate 51 and having lips slightly overhanging the said inner edge of the holder;
and between said slides 95 and 96 is a plate 98 also attached to the plate 51 and
provided with a lip 99, to engage the inner rim of the holder, and with the spring-
pressed centering pin 100 which is to engage with the notches 101 formed in the
under portion of the inner edge of the holder, and at points with which the button-
holes should be in alignment.
The work-holder is fed forward in the direction denoted by the arrows in Fig. 2
and to ensure a proper turning movement of the work-holder to secure a correct
radial arrangement of the button-holes; or, in other words, to cause the notch for
each button-hole to be properly entered by the centreing pin 100 the spring for the
slide 95 has a stronger tension than the spring for the slide 96. As a result of the
difference of pressure of the slides 95 and 96 against the inner edge of the work-
holder, the latter, on being moved forward by the gear 102 meshing with the
teeth e formed in the outer edge of said holder, is caused to progress in such a
manner that its inner shorter edge will travel nearly or quite as fast as its outer
longer edge, thus bringing a notch 101 opposite the centreing pin 100 slightly
before the feeding movement of the gear 102 is arrested. As the feeding move-
ments of the gear 102 are positive and uniform the outer or eye end of each button-
hole will, in every instance, be properly brought into position; and the correct
positions for the inner ends of the button-holes, to give the latter a proper radial
arrangement on the button-hole piece, is reliably secured by the above described
differentially spring-pressed guiding slides 95 and 96 acting in co-operation with
the notches 101 on the inner edge of the work-holder and with the feeding teeth
and intermeshing gear wheel at the outer edge of said holder.
As herein before stated the feeding movements of the work-holder E and of the
button-hole piece clamped or otherwise suitably secured thereto are effected during
the time when the clamp is being returned to its starting point by the returning
ring 77 after the button-hole has been completed. To effect these feeding move-
ments I have, in the present instance, provided the guiding button 59 with teeth 103
which are connected by train of gears 104, 105, 106 and 107 with the gear 102
which meshes with the teeth e on said work-holder, the semi-rotary return move-
ments of the work-holder and the clamp base plate d by which the work-holder
supporting-plate 51 is carried causing a proper rotation of these work-holder
feeding-gears from the stationary gear on the sliding button.
To permit the work-holder to be entered into its guides after a button-hole piece
has been secured thereto it is necessary that the gear 102 should be disconnected
from the train of gears having connection with the stationary gear on the guiding
button 59; and for this purpose I have mounted the gear 107 on a spring 108 and
provided said gear with a button 109. The spring 108 normally holds said
gear 107 up so that it is in mesh with the gear 102; but when the work-holder is to
be entered into its guides and it is desired that the latter gear should rotate freely
the operator presses on said button 109, thereby depressing the gear 107 out of
engagement with the gear 102.
To provide for the variable feeding movement of the work-holder for spacing the
button-holes different distances apart the gears 104 and 105 are what may be
termed "change gears," they may be removed and interchangeable gears of different
sizes may be substituted therefor to give a greater or lesser progressive or feeding
movement to the work holder from the stationary gear on the guiding button.
As hereinbefore stated the clamp base-plate guiding button 59 is carried by a
plate 63 which is stationary while the sides and eye of a button-hole are being
stitched but which is given a reciprocating sliding movement back and forth in the
direction of the length of the machine when the stitching of the last side of a
button-hole is completed for the purpose of forming three or four barring stitches
across the end of the button-hole; and at the completion of the barring stitches the
driving shaft 2, from which the stitch-forming and clamp-feeding mechanisms are
operated, is automatically stopped, the barring mechanism and the stopping

page_text: mechanism for the said driving shaft, and which will now be described, being
essentially the same in principle (although varying somewhat in details) as the
corresponding mechanisms shown and described in the Specification of U.S. Patent
No. 360,434 herein before referred to.
The sliding plate 63, which rests on the clamp-feeding wheel 41 and which is
guided back and forth in a suitable recess formed in the underside of the plate 37,
is engaged by an upwardly extending projection 110 of a bar 111 provided at its
rear end with a hook 112 arranged to be engaged by a second hook 113 carried by
a lever 114 pivotaly secured to a sliding bar 115 provided at its rear end with a
yoke embracing a cam b on the lower part of the vertical shaft 3; the said sliding
bar 115 being thus given a constant movement back and forth while the said shaft
is in operation.
The lever 114 carrying the hook 113 is connected by a link 116 with the
lower arm of a bell-crank tripping lever 117 the upper arm of which is provided
with a toe-portion 118 arranged in the path of movement of a projection 119
carried by the feeding wheel 41.
A spring 118', Figure 29, one end of which rests in a hole drilled in work plate B,
and the other end attached by a guiding pin 1171 Figure 29, to the bell crank
lever 117, pressed against the upper arm of said lever 117, thus causing the
screw 120 on the lower arm of said lever, to move towards the pivot 124 of
dog 123, when said dog is pushed back by the action of lever 128 as will be
described.
The link 116 at its point of connection with the lower arm of the lever 117 is
forked or slotted to embrace the screw 120 tapped through said arm, said link
being yieldingly pressed against said screw by the spring 121. The screw 120
extends through and above the lower arm of the lever 117 to form a pin or stop
against which, by a spring 122, is pressed a holding dog 123 pivoted at 124 to the
underside of the work-plate B and provided with notches 125, 126 and with a toe
piece or projection 127.
To the underside of work-plate B is pivoted. the lever 128 connected by a
link 129 with a holding lever 130 pivoted at 131. The lever 128 is normally held
against a stop screw 132 by a spring 133 and the said lever is provided with a series
of teeth to be engaged by a pawl 134 carried by the sliding bar 115, said pawl
being provided with a pin 135 engaged by the tail-piece 136 of the hook 113
carried by the lever 114. A spring 137 forces said pawl into engagement with the
teeth of the lever 128 when the position of the tail piece is such as to permit it to
do so.
Pivoted to the underside of the work-plate B is a bell-crank automatic setting
lever F the shorter arm 138 of which is engaged by the holding lever 130, said
arm being connected by a link 139 with a setting lever 140 having a vertical portion
or arm projecting upward through a slot in the work-plate to serve as an operating
handle. A spring 141 arranged in said slot serves to force said lever towards a
stop-screw 142.
O is a rod jointed to the setting lever 140 by the screw 143 by which the
link 139 is connected to said lever, said rod extending rearward to engage the
lower end of the clutch lever 12 to cause said lever to force the loose pulley
wheel 11 into frictional engagement with the fast fly-wheel 10 when the driving
shaft 2 is to be operated.
A spring 114 serves to retract the said clutch lever, when the rod O is released
therefrom, and to apply the brake e to the fly-wheel to arrest the rotation of the
shaft 2.
The operation of the barring mechanism and of the stopping mechanism for the
driving shaft 2 connected therewith is as follows:-
The parts being in the position shown in Fig. 5 and the sewing and clamp-feeding
mechanisms being in operation (this feeding mechanism being that by which button-
hole stitches are spaced) the projection 119 will, when the stitching of the last side
of a button-hole is completed, engage the toe portion 118 of the tripping lever 117

page_text: causing said lever, through the link 116, to draw the lever 114 carried by the
sliding bar 115 into such position that the hook 113 will engage the hook 112 to
impart motion to the plate 63 and the guiding button carried thereby, thus recipro-
cating the work-clamp beneath the needle, and in opposition to the horizontal
movements of the latter, to form barring stitches. At the first movement of the
tripping lever 117 the holding dog 123 immediately springs forward so that the pin
or screw 120, the upwardly projecting part of which has been resting in the notch
or clearance 126 is now received into the notch 125; and thus said dog by being
engaged by said screw 120 extending through said tripping lever 117, will now hold
the tripping lever in the position in which the projection 119 has placed it after the
.said projection moves away from the toe-portion of the said tripping lever, thus holding
the hook 113 in engagement with the hook 112. The movement of the hook 113 with
its tail piece 136 towards the hook 112 permits the pawl 134 to engage the teeth
of the lever 128 and turn said lever on its pivot to the extent of one tooth at each
forward movement of the pawl; thus causing said lever, acting through the
link 129, to move the holding lever 130 rearward until it is freed from the arm 138
of the lever F when the spring 141 will move the setting lever 140 toward the side
of the work plate and draw the rod O connected therewith forward out of contact
with the clutch lever 12 when the spring 144 will retract said clutch lever to
release the driving pulley 11 from the fly wheel and apply the brake to said fly
wheel and stop the shaft 2 and the stitching and clamp-feeding mechanisms operated
therefrom.
When the dog 123 is supported in the position above described, with the
screw 120 resting in the notch 125 of said dog, the toe piece or projection 127 of
the latter will be in the path of movement of the part 128 of the lever 128; so
that just as the holding lever 130 clears the arm 138 of the lever F the projection
or toe piece 127 of said dog will be engaged by the part 128' of the lever 128, and
thus said dog will be released or pushed off from the stop or screw 120, thereby
permitting the hook 113 to be disengaged from the hook 112 by the tripping
lever 117, as the latter is returned to its normal position by 118' as described.
At the moment when the driving shaft 2 and the stitch and clamp-feeding
mechanisms are stopped, as just described, the driving shaft C and the clamp-
returning, and work-holder feeding and button-hole cutting mechanisms, operated
from said shaft C, are set in motion, by the mechanism which will now be described;
and when the clamp has been returned to its stitch-forming starting position, the
work-holder fed along to bring the work into position for a new button-hole and
the slit for said hole has been cut the shaft C is automatically stopped and at the
same moment the driving shaft 2 is started to again set the stitch-forming and
clamp-feeding mechanisms into operation. Thus the stopping mechanism for the
driving shaft 2 serves as a starting mechanism for the driving shaft C; while the
stopping mechanism for the latter shaft acts to start the former shaft, so that
the train of mechanisms operated from said shafts will be automatically but
alternately stopped and started (one or the other being in constant operation) until
a button-hole piece or any desired number of button-holes shall have been worked,
when the entire machine is thrown out of operation, as will presently appear.
Gis a stopping bar pivotally attached at 145 to the longer arm 146 of the
automatic setting lever F, said bar having formed integral therewith a hub 147
having a rigid rearwardly extending arm 148 to which is pivoted the lever 149 the
forward arm of which is depressed by a spring 150. In the rear end of the bar G
is formed a slot 151 which receives a roller-pin 152 carried by the reciprocating
slide 17 operated by the cam grooved hub 14 of the constantly rotating pulley 13
running loose on the shaft C. Pivoted at 153 to the rear arm of the bar G is a
lever 154 provided at its rear end with a notch 156 and at its forward end with a
notch 157; the rear end of said lever being pressed against by a plate spring 158
attached to the bar G. To a laterally extending projection on the bar G is pivoted
at 159 a latch 160 having a rearwardly extending finger 161, said latch, when in its
rearward position, engaging the notch 157 of the lever 154 to hold the rear end of

page_text: the said lever depressed out of the path of the constantly reciprocating roller-
pin 152; a spring 155 serving to hold said latch rearward in engagement with.
said notch.
The shaft C is provided near its rear end with a pinion 162 meshing with a gear
wheel 163 mounted on a small standard 164 and provided with a hub 165 having a
notched or cut-away portion 166. Mounted in suitable arms or standards 168, 169
is a longitudinally movable or sliding rod 170 on which is loosely mounted a
rocker 174 having an arm 175 held in contact with the notched hub or cam 165 of
the gear wheel 163 by a torsional spring 176 surrounding said rod; said rocker
having an arm 177 extending forward and provided with a head 178 in which is
mounted a spring-pressed slide 179 provided with a hole 180 and a notch or
rectangular recess 181. 183 is an arm rigidly secured to the rod 170 near the rear
end of the latter and preferably having a spring catch 184, said arm serving at the
proper time to release the dog 20 carried by the wheel 18 fast on the shaft C from
the pin or projection 19 on the loose driving pulley 13, and the said spring catch
serving to prevent backward movement of said wheel 18 when unclutched from said
pulley. The rod 170 is drawn forward, to bring the releasing arm 183 into the path
of rotation of the dog 20 at the proper time, by a spring 185.
H is a starting hand lever loosely connected by a link 186 with a screw or
pin 187 on the arm 183, the slot 173 in said link through which said screw passes
permitting a limited movement of the said arm 183 and of the rod 170 which
carries the same without moving said lever. To the lower arm of the lever H is
jointed a rod 188 the forward end of which is connected by a link 189 to an
arm 190 on the inner end of a rocking bar 191 resting in a button-hole governing
ratchet bar or slide 192 arranged to slide in a block or support 193 attached to the
work table on which the machine stands. To the outer end of the block 193 is
pivotally secured an index wheel 194 provided on its inner face with a series of
holes 195 of different depths, said holes being so arranged that any one of them
may be brought opposite the outer rounded end of the ratchet bar 192; said bar
being arranged in line with the slide 179 carried by the head 178 of the rocker 174
so that when said bar is fed forward a desired distance, determined by the number
of button-holes to be worked, it will engage said slide to automatically effect the
stopping of the machine as will be fully described further on.
Pivoted to the post 196 is a pawl-carrier 197 provided with a feeding pawl 198
which is in engagement with the teeth of the ratchet bar 192, said pawl carrier
being operated by the rod 199, attached to the lower end thereof, and the spring 200
which holds the inner end of said rod in contact with the arm 177 of the
rocker 174. A detent pawl 201 prevents the ratchet bar from moving backward
when the pawl 198 is retracted.
As above stated the index wheel has a series of holes of different depths into any
one of which, brought opposite its end, the ratchet-bar will enter when retracted;
these different holes being indicated by suitable marks or figures placed opposite
them on the index wheel. Thus if nine button-holes are to be worked before the
machine is to be automatically stopped the index wheel will be set accordingly;
but if a lesser number of holes are to be made a shallower hole, denoted by a
lower figure, will be set for the ratchet bar to fall into when it is retracted; the
said wheel, it being understood, serving as a variable back-stop for the ratchet bar;
as the machine will always be stopped when the said bar arrives at a particular
point in its forward movement and a forward movement of each tooth of the
ratchet-bar will correspond to a button-hole worked. A spring 202 arranged in
the block or support 193 serves to return the sliding ratchet bar to its starting
position when the pawls 198 and 201 are released therefrom when a button-hole
piece has been finished.
To provide for releasing these pawls the rocking bar 191 is made semi-circular
in cross section or is provided with a flattened side at that portion thereof which
comes beneath said pawls, said flattened portion being at the upper side of said
bar when the latter is in its normal position so that the upper surface of that part

page_text: of said rocking bar beneath the said pawls will be below the tops of the teeth of
the ratchet bar; thus permitting said pawls to engage the ratchet teeth; but when
the said rocking or pawl-releasing bar is partially turned by the above described
connection with the hand lever H a corner of said bar will be brought above the
tops of the ratchet teeth and will thus disengage the pawls therefrom and permit
the spring 202 to retract the sliding ratchet bar until its outer end engages the
wall at the bottom of that hole in the index wheel which may be set to come
opposite said bar.
The machine is started, when it is entirely stopped, by the hand lever H which
retracts the rod 170 to release the arm 183 thereof from the dog 20 and said lever
through the rod 188, link 189 and arm 190 also operates the rocking bar 191 to
release the pawis 198 and 201 from the ratchet bar 192; but said pawls may be
released from said bar without retracting said rod 170 owing to the loose connection
of the lever H with the pin 187 on said bar afforded by the slot 173 in the link 186.
To the forward end of the stopping bar G is jointed a link 203, which, in turn, is
jointed at its forward end to the rear arm of a small bell-crank lever 204 pivoted
to a bracket 205 and forked at its forward end to engage the pin 79 which serves
to lift the clamp-feeding pin 39 from the groove of the clamp feeding wheel when
the work clamp is to be returned to its starting position after a button-hole has
been stitched and barred; said lever 204 being so connected with the pin 79 that
the latter will be positively raised and lowered.
When the work-holder is to be fed forward after the completion of a button-hole,
to bring the button-hole piece into position for forming a new button-hole, it is
desirable that the tension on the threads should be released so that all danger of
breaking the threads or of bending or breaking the needle or thread-carrying
looper or loopers will be avoided. To automatically release the tension on the
lower thread during the work-holder feeding operations I have pivoted to the
bracket 205 a tension releasing lever 206 the forward end of which is arranged to be
forced between the discs of a tension device 207, said lever having near its rear end
a notch 208 to receive a cam projection 209 on the link 203, said projection being
so placed that when said link is in its forward position and the stitch-forming
mechanism is at work it will be in the said notch of said lever; but when the
stopping bar G moves rearwardly and the stitch-forming mechanism is stopped and
the clamp-returning and work-holder feeding mechanism is started said projection
will engage the full portion of said tension releasing lever rearward of said notch
and force the forward end of the lever between the tension discs to separate the
latter and thus release the tension. The lever 206 is held against the projection 209
by a suitable spring 210 pressing against a pin 210¹ carried by said lever (see
Figs. 25 and 26).
The tension on the upper thread is similarly released by a lever 211 the forward
end of which is arranged to enter between the discs of the upper tension device 212;
said lever having at its rear end a laterally extending arın 213 provided with a pin
or roller 215 engaged by a cam disc 216 at the upper end of the cutter-operating
shaft 24; said cam disc having in its lower face a notched or cut-away portion
which receives said pin or roller when said shaft is stationary and the stitch-forming
mechanism is in operation; but when said shaft is started, simultaneously with the
starting of the clamp-returning and work-holder feeding mechanisms, the full
portion of said cam disc causes the forward end of the lever 211 to enter between
the tension discs and thus release the tension.
When the work-holder is being fed forward to bring the work into position for
the formation of a new button-hole it is also desirable that a length of upper or
needle thread approximately equal to the distance between one button-hole and
another should be drawn off or unwound from the spool, to avoid springing the
needle; and this is effected in the present instance by a friction pad 217 consisting
of a block of rubber or other suitable elastic material carried by the disc 216 and
arranged to engage one head of the spool 218 er of a disc 221 clamped against the
caid spool.

page_text: The spool 218 is preferably carried by a pin or holder 220 having a disc 221
permanently fixed thereto and between which and the disc 219, having an internally
screw-threaded hole or sleeve entered by a threaded portion of the said pin, said
spool is tightly clamped by screwing up said disc 219. To permit the spool holder
and the spool carried thereby to turn easily the ends of the said holder are provided
with counter-sunk recesses entered by centre points formed at the ends of pins or
screws 222, 223 the former of which is fixed to the spool holder supporting-
frame 224 and the latter of which is carried by a movable arm 225 pivoted to said
frame and pressed towards the disc 219 by a spring 226, the stress of which latter,
to regulate the tension, may be varied by an adjusting screw 227.
In cutting an eyed button-hole a small oval disc is punched from the leather or
other material by the cutter and it is desirable that this disc or cut-out piece of
material should be entirely and reliably removed from the work, as otherwise
imperfections in the button-holes formed are liable to result. In working button-
holes in cloth the discs cut from the eyes of said holes are usually left in the holes
by the cutter and have to be removed by tweezers by the operator, and with
leather more or less difficulty is also caused by these discs which get into the
stitching or occasion more or less roughness of work at the eyes of the button-holes.
To obviate this difficulty I have provided au automatic eye-piece or disc remover
consisting of a pin 228 arranged beneath the work-plate in vertical line with the
eye of the cutter, and a small hole is formed in the eye portion of the cutting block
or plate 61 for the upward passage of said pin; the latter being attached to a
vertically sliding block 229 arranged in a standard 230 on the work table and
provided with an upwardly extending arm 231 arranged to be engaged by a
lever 232, pivoted to the work-plate B, to depress the pin carrying sliding-block 229
against the stress of the lifting spring 233 placed beneath it. Resting on the
lever 232 near the outer end thereof is a pin 234 which comes beneath the inner
edge of the clamp-returning ring 77, the latter thus normally serving to hold said
pin and lever depressed against the stress of the lifting spring 233. The clamp-
returning ring is, however, provided with a notch or recess 236, which, in the
rotation of said ring and just before the cutter rises, comes above the pin 234 and
thus permits the spring 235 to lift the lever 232 from the arm 231; thereby
releasing the sliding block 229 so that the spring 233 instantly forces the said block
and the pin 228 carried thereby upward, thus shooting or ejecting the cut-out disc
of material out through the hole in the punch portion of the cutter and the said pin
is then depressed out of the way.
The operations of the different mechanisms constituting my machine have already
been mostly set forth in connection with their structural description, but the general
operation of my machine may be stated as follows:-
The driving pulleys 11 and 13 on the shafts 2 and C, respectively, being set into
operation by suitable power driven belts (not shown) the work holder E, with a
button-hole piece secured thereto, being placed in proper position on the supporting
plate 51 carried by the clamp base-plate d, and the clamp being in the position
shown in Fig. 4 ready to be returned to its stitch-forming starting point or the
position which it occupies when a button-hole is cut and the stitching operation
commenced, the machine is started by the outward or rearward movement of the
upper or handle end of the hand lever H which, through the link 186 acting on the
screw or pin 187 on the arm 183, draws the sliding rod 170 rearward thereby
disengaging the said arm 183 from the dog 20 carried by the wheel 18 fast on the
shaft C and permitting said dog to spring outward into the path of rotation of the
pin or projection 19 carried by the loose driving pulley 13; thus setting said shaft C
into motion to operate the clamp returning, work-holder feeding, button-hole cutting
tension releasing and thread unwinding mechanisms connected therewith. The
clamp returning ring 77 now swings the clamp and the work-holder mounted thereon.
around in a half-circle to the stitch-forming starting position shown by Fig. 3 and
in so doing feeds the work-holder along, as hereinbefore described, to bring the
work or button-hole piece attached thereto into position for the formation of the

page_text: first button-hole; and the clamp returning pin 81 is then released from the dog 83
on the said clamp-returning ring, the latter continuing its revolution around to its
first position. During the last half of the rotation of the clamp-returning ring
the button-hole cutter, operated from the shaft 24, descends and cuts the button-
hole.
'
Before the sliding rod 170 had been moved rearward by the hand lever H, as
above described, the rear end of the lever 149 was received into the rectangular
recess 181 in the slide 179 carried by the head 178 of the rocker 174, and the rear
end of the finger 161 of the latch 160 was in the hole 180 of the said slide; said
latch thus resting in the notch at the forward end of the lever 154 to hold the rear
end of said lever depressed out of the path of the constantly reciprocating roller
pin 152. As the said rocker and its head are longitudinally movable with the
rod 170 the said lever 149 is released from the recess 181 when the rod 170 is
moved rearward, and the spring 1:0 then lifts the rear end of said lever so that it
will engage the forward face of said slide 179 above said recess and thus hold the
arm 183 out of the path of revolution of the dog 20 for the time being. The
rearward movement of the rod 170 also disengaged the finger 161 of the latch 160
from the hole 180 of said slide. The pinion 162 on the shaft C, now in rotation,
turns the gear wheel 163 during the clamp-returning and button-hole cutting
operations so that by the time a button-hole has been cut the notched or cut-away
portion 166 of the cam hub 165 of said gear comes opposite the arm 175 of the
rocker 174, thus permitting the torsional spring 176 to turn said rocker slightly to
bring the recess 181 opposite the rear end of the lever 149 so that the spring 185
may return the rod 170 and bring the arm 183 into the path of rotation of the
dog 20 to unclutch the pulley 13 from the shaft C to stop the latter. At the
moment when the rod 170 and the parts connected therewith are thus moved
forward by the spring 185 the finger 161 of the latch 160 is opposite the web
between the holes or recesses 180 and 181 in the slide 179, and as the spring 185 is
much stronger than the spring 155 the latter will yield, releasing the said latch
from the lever 154, when the spring 185 will lift the rear end of said lever to
permit the roller pin 152 to enter the notch 156, and as said pin strikes the wall at
the left or forward end of said notch, it will move the bar G forward turning the
lever F on its pivot thus causing the rod O connected to said lever through the
link 139 to more rearward and engage the clutch lever 12 to remove the brake
from the fly-wheel 10 and force the pulley wheel 11 into contact with said fly
wheel to start the shaft 2 and the stitching and clamp-feeding mechanisms operated
thereby.
When the hand lever H is operated to start the machine the bar 191 is rocked
slightly, releasing the pawls 198 and 201, as has been described, and the ratchet
bar is then retracted by its spring 202 thus freeing the slide 179 which is returned
by its spring into such position as to be engaged by the lever 149 and the finger of
the latch 160 which, striking the inner face of said slide move the rod 170 rearward
to start the shaft C when the lever F is next operated at the automatic stopping of
the stitching and clamp-feeding mechanisms; but when the last button-hole in the
piece of work in the work-holder is finished. the ratchet bar is fed forward so as to
engage said slide 179 and force the latter inward or forwards so that when shaft 2
is next stopped and the lever F next moves to carry the stopping bar G rearward
the rear end of the lever 149 is opposite the recess 181 of said slide and the rear
end of the finger 161 of the latch 160 is opposite the hole 180 in said slide, so that
now instead of engaging any part of the face of said slide, the rear end of the
lever 149 will enter said recess and the rear end of the said finger will enter said
hole and thus these parts, which at prior rearward movements of the bar G engaged
said slide to force the rod 170 rearward to start the shaft C, will now fail to engage
said slide and the said shaft will therefore remain at rest and the entire machine will
be stopped.
6
I do not wish to be understood as limiting my invention to the particular details
of the mechanisms hereinbefore described, as the constructions of the parts of my

page_text: machine may be varied widely without departing from my invention; and as I
believe that I am the first to provide a button-hole sewing machine with an
automatic mechanism for advancing the work from one button-hole to another, I
wish to be understood as claiming this feature broadly, as also, in connection there-
with, the feature of an automatic mechanism for stopping the machine when any
desired number of button-holes has been worked.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, as communicated to me,
I declare that what I claim is :-
1. In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination with a stitch-forming
mechanism and a feeding mechanism for spacing the stitches along the edges of the
button-holes, of a work-holding device and a feeding device for advancing the work
from one button-hole stitching position to another.
2. In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination with a stitch forming
mechanism and a feeding mechanism for spacing the stitches along the edges of the
button-holes, of a work-holding device and an automatic feeding mechanism for.
advancing the work from one button-hole stitching position to ancther.
3. In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination with a stitch-forming
mechanism and a work-clamping device of an automatic feeding mechanism for
advancing the button-hole piece relative to said clamping device to feed the work
from one button-hole stitching position to another.
4. In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination with a stitch-forming
mechanism, a work-clamp and an automatic barring mechanism of an automatic
feeding mechanism for advancing the button-hole piece relative to said work-clamp
to feed the work from one button-hole stitching position to another.
5. In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination with a stitch-forming
mechanism, and a work-clamp, of a travelling work-holder to which a button-hole
piece may be secured, and an automatic feeding mechanisin for advancing said work-
holder relative to the said clamp to feed the button-hole piece from one button-hole
stitching position to another.
6. In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination with a stitch-forming
mechanism, a work-clamp and a feeding mechanism for the latter, of a work-holder
to which a button-hole piece may be secured and an automatic feeding mechanism
for advancing said work-holder relative to said clamp to feed the button-hole piece
from one button-hole stitching position to another.
7. In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination with a stitch-forming
mechanism, a work-clamp and a feeding mechanism for the latter, of an automatic
clamping and releasing mechanism, a work-holder to which a button-hole piece may
be secured, and an automatic feeding mechanism for advancing said work-holder
relative to said clamp when the latter is released, to feed the button-hole piece from
one button-hole stitching position to another.
8. In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination with a stitch-forming
mechanism and a feeding mechanism for spacing the stitches along the edges of the
button-holes, of an automatic button-hole cutting mechanism, a work-holder to
which a button-hole piece may be secured and an automatic feeding mechanism for
advancing said work-holder to feed the work from one button-hole stitching position
to another.
9. In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination with a stitch-forming
mechanism, of a work-clamn and feeding mechanism for the latter, of an automatic
button-hole cutting mechanism, a work-holder to which a button-hole piece may be
secured and an automatic feeding mechanism for advancing said work-holder to feed
the work from one button-hole stitching position to another.
10. In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination with a stitch-forming
mechanism, a work-clamp and feeding mechanism, for the latter, of an automatic
clamp-returning mechanism, a work-holder to which a button-hole piece may be

page_text: secured and an automatic feeding mechanism for advancing said work holder to feed
the work from one button-hole stitching position to another.
11. In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination with a stitch-forming
mechanism and a work-holding device, of an automatic feeding mechanism for
advancing the work from one button-hole stitching position to another, a starting
and stopping mechanism for said stitch-forming mechanism, and a second starting
and stopping mechanism for said automatic work-feeding mechanism.
12. In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination with a stitch-forming
mechanism and a work-holding device, of an automatic feeding mechanism for
advancing the work from one button-hole stitching position to another, a starting
and stopping mechanism for said stitch-forming mechanism and a second starting
and stopping mechanism to start and stop the said automatic work-feeding
mechanisin, said starting and stopping mechanisms being reciprocally connected so
that each throws the other into and out of action to alternately start and stop the
mechanisms with which they are connected.
13. In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination with a stitch forming
mechanism, an automatic button-hole cutting mechanism and means for throwing
said mechanisms into and out of action alternately, of an automatic feeding
mechanism for advancing the work from one button-hole stitching position to
another and means by which said feeding and cutting mechanisms are automatically
and successively thrown into action when the stitch-forming mechanism is
stopped.
14. In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination with a stitch-forming
mechanism, a feeding mechanisin for advancing the work beneath the needle and an
automatic feeding mechanism serving to advance the work from one button-hole
stitching position to another, of an automatically operating button-hole cutter
extending close up to the vertical plane of the needle so that a button-hole slit
formed thereby will be in position for the commencement of the sewing operation as
soon as made, and thus no time will be required between the cutting and stitching
operations to feed the button-hole slit up to the needle.
15. In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination with a stitch-forming
mechanism, of a work-holding device, an automatic feeding mechanism for
advancing the work from one button-hole stitching position to another, tension
devices for the button-hole threads and automatic tension releasing devices for
removing the tension from said threads when the work is to be moved along to form
a new button-hole.
16. In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination with a stitch-forming
mechanism, of a work-holding device, an automatic feeding mechanism for
advancing the work from one button-hole stitching position to another, tension
devices for the button-hole threads, automatic tension releasing devices for
removing the tension from said threads when the work is to be moved along to
form a new button-hole, and an automatic pull-off or thread-unwinding mechanism
to draw slack needle thread from its spoof when the work is thus automatically
advanced.
17. In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination with a stitch-forming
mechanism, a work-clamp and an automatic feeding mechanism for advancing the
work from one button-hole stitching position to another, of an automatic releasing.
and clamping mechanism for releasing the clamping feet from the work when the
latter is to be fed along to bring it into position for a new button-hole and for
returning said feet to their clamping positions when the button-hole piece advancing 5
or feeding operations have been effected.
18. In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination with the stitch-forming.
mechanism thereof, of a work-clamp, an automatic feeding mechanism for advancing
the button-hole piece from one button-hole stitching position to another, an
automatic button-hole cutting mechanism, an automatic clamping and clamp- 5
returning mechanism, and alternately acting automatic starting and stopping

page_text: mechanisms for said stitch-forming mechanism, and for the said automatic feeding,
cutting and clamping and clamp-releasing mechanisms; whereby, when a button-
hole piece has been placed in position by the operator a series of button-holes
may be automatically cut and stitched the work being automatically clamped and
unclamped and automatically fed from one button-hole stitching position to another
when unclamped; the stitch-forming mechanism being stopped when the automatic
feeding and cutting mechanisms are operated and vice versi.
19. In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination with the stitch-forming
mechanism thereof, of a work-clamp, an automatic barring mechanism, an automatic
feeding mechanism for advancing the button-hole piece from one button-hole
stitching position to another, an automatic button-liole cutting mechanism, an
automatic clamping and clamp-releasing mechanism, and alternately acting
automatic starting and stopping mechanisms for said stitch-forming and barring
mechanisms and for the said automatic feeding, cutting and clamping and clamp-
releasing mechanisms; whereby, when a button-hole piece has been placed in
position by the operator a series of button-holes may be automatically cut, stitched
and barred; the work being automatically clamped and unclamped and automatically
fed from one button-hole stitching position to another when unclamped; the
stitch-forming mechanism being stopped when the automatic feeding and cutting
mechanisms are operating, and rice versa.
20. In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination with a stitch-forming
mechanism, of a work-holding device, an automatic feeding mechanism for advancing
the work from one button-hole stitching position to another, an automatic stopping
mechanism and an adjustable automatic governing device acting on said stopping
mechanism to effect a stoppage of the machine when a predetermined number of
button-holes has been worked.
21. In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination with a stitch-forming
mechanism, of a work-clamp, an automatic feeding mechanism for advancing the
work from one button-hole stitching position to another, an automatic button-hole
cutting mechanism, an automatic clamping and clamp-releasing mechanism and
alternately and reciprocally acting starting and stopping mechanisins for the said
stitch-forming mechanism and for said automatic, feeding, cutting and clamping
and clamp-releasing mechanisms, a tripping mechanism for disconnecting the said
starting and stopping mechanisms from each other and an adjustable governing
device for the said tripping mechanism whereby the latter may be thrown into
action to suspend the operation of the machine when a predetermined number of
successively worked button-holes has been completed.
22. In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination with a stitch-forming
mechanism, of a work-clamp, an automatic barring mechanism an automatic
feeding mechanism for advancing the work from one button-hole stitching position
to another, an automatic button-hole cutting mechanism, an automatic clamping
and clamp-releasing mechanism, and alternately and reciprocally acting starting
and stopping mechanisms for the said stitch-forming and barring mechanisms and
for the said automatic feeding, cutting and clamping and clamp-releasing
mechanisms, a tripping mechanism for disconnecting the said starting and stopping
mechanisms from each other, and an adjustable governing device for the said
tripping mechanism whereby the latter may be thrown into action to suspend
the operation of the machine when a predetermined number of successively worked
button-holes has been completed.
23. In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination with a stitch-forming
mechanism and a work-clamp, of an automatically operating button-hole cutter
having an eyelet forming portion, and an automatically operating pin for ejecting
from the said clamp the eye pieces or discs of material cut from the work by the
eyelet portion of said cutter.
24. In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination with a stitch-forming
mechanism and a feeding mechanism for spacing the stitches along the edges of
the button-holes, of a work-holder formed to correspond approximately to the

page_text: shape of the button-hole piece and means for guiding said work-holder on the
work-plate of the machine and for feeding it along from one button-hole stitching
position to another.
25. In a button-hole sewing machine, a stitch-forming mechanism and a work-
holder provided with a series of fingers to come between the button-holes, said
fingers having work-holding clamping devices, combined with means for guiding
said work-holder on the work-plate of the machine and for feeding it along from
one button-hole stitching position to another.
26. In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination with a stitch-forming
mechanism, of a work-holder having a series of fingers to come between the
button-holes, said fingers extending partly but not entirely across said holder,
and means for guiding said work-holder on the work-plate of the machine and
for feeding it along from one button-hole stitching position to another.
Dated this Twenty-fifth day of April 1892.
CRUIKSHANK & FAIRWEATHER,
62, St. Vincent Street, Glasgow, Agents.