Improvements in Sewing Machines for Boots and Shoes.
Year: 1897

page_text: Communicated from abroad by PETER AMABLE COUPAL, of 102 South Street, and
WILLIAM GORDON, of 116 Bedford Street, Both of Boston, in the County of
Suffolk and State of Massachusetts, United States of America, Gentlemen.]
[Communicated from abroad by PETER AMABLE COUPAL, of 102 South Street, and
WILLIAM GORDON, of 116 Bedford Street, Both of Boston, in the County of
Suffolk and State of Massachusetts, United States of America, Gentlemen.]
Improvements in Sewing Machines for Boots and Shoes.
I, HENRY HARRIS LAKE, of the Firm of Haseltine, Lake & Co., Patent Agents,
45 Southampton Buildings, in the County of Middlesex, do hereby declare the
nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to a new and improved machine for sewing shoes, and
particularly to the mechanism whereby the stitch can be set without the use of
the needle, and while the needle is out of the stock. The invention consists in
certain novel features of construction and relative arrangement of parts substan-
tially as hereinafter described.
In carrying out my invention, I employ a suitable supporting frame or stand, on
which the machine rests, the stand being provided with a collar. The framework
of the machine proper comprises a bed-piece or plate arranged to rest on said collar
and to be secured thereto in any desired way, two upright arms which rise from the
bed-piece or plate on opposite sides of the latter and are provided with journal
bearings at a suitable distance above the said plate and in which is mounted a
shaft, said arms extending a suitable distance above the bearings and being con-
nected by an overhanging bar, a web extending upward from the bed-plate,
between the upright arms, and running from the back to the front, the plate being
cut away around the shaft a sufficient distance to permit the cams to be placed
thereon, the plate, arms, bar, and web all being cast in one piece. The front end
of the web is formed with a deflecting portion, and with a lug arranged on opposite
sides of said web. It is to this web that most of the lever mechanisms of the
machine are attached. An arm cast integral with one of the upright arms connects
the latter with the web, this connecting arm joining the upright arm a short dis-
tance below the shaft. An arm is also formed on the opposite side of the web from
the described connecting-arm and joining the overhanging bar to the
top of the web. To one end of the shaft is secured a hub, by means
of a set-screw. This hub carries a hand-wheel, and a belt-wheel arranged to
carry a belt that connects the wheel to any desired source of power.
Upon the shaft are rigidly mounted three cam-disks, two of the said disks being
each formed upon its periphery with a path-cam. Each of the three disks is pro-
vided with a face path-cam. It is from these path-cams that the several parts of
the machine derive their motion, and by which the several movements are properly
timed. A back-support is connected to the end of a bar mounted to slide in aper-
tures formed in a lug projecting from the side of the lower edge of the before-
mentioned web, and in another web that extends up a short distance from the bed-
The rear end of this
piece or plate and joins the first web with the upright arms.

page_text: bar is provided on its under side with rack-teeth that mesh with a pinion loosely
mounted on a pin extending outwardly from a rearward extension of the first web.
A ratchet-wheel is also loosely mounted upon this pin, and is cast integral with the
pinion or secured thereto in any desired way. The ratchet-wheel is retained on
the pin by a nut. A coiled spring has one of its ends secured to the pin and its
other end to the ratchet-wheel, and tends to hold the back-support yieldingly
against the shoe, except when the ratchet-wheel is locked, as hereinafter described.
A back-gage is arranged above the back-support and beside its bar, and mounted
to slide in apertures in the apertured lug and web. The free end of this back-
gage is forked, to permit the passage of the needle and awl, and bears against the
shoe, above the back-gage. A collar part is formed on the back-support, between
the apertured lug and web. A helical spring is arranged on the back-support,
between the collar and web, and holds the forked end of the back-gage yieldingly
against the shoe except when the back-gage is locked, as hereinafter described.
A pintle is secured in the lower part of the first-described upwardly-extending web,
by a nut. Upon this pintle is loosely mounted a hub having two lever-arms. To
the end of one of said arms is adjustably secured a block, by means of screws. This
block carries one or more dogs arranged to engage ratchet-teeth on the back-gage
to lock said gage. To the end of the other of said arms is secured, by a screw, a
dog arranged to engage the teeth of the ratchet-wheel to lock the latter and the
back-support. The back-gage and back-support are locked by the mechanism just
described while the such is being made and set, but are pressed outward by the
springs at other times. A helical spring is provided, one end of which rests upon
the bed-plate, while the other end is engaged by the above-described block, whereby
the lever-arms are operated to make their respective dogs lock the back-gage and
back-support except when the end of one arm is depressed, as hereinafter described.
An arm is pivoted at one end upon a stud that projects from the first-described
upwardly-projecting web, the lower end of said arm carrying a set-screw which
engages a lug secured to the back-gage in order to limit the movement of the back-
gage. To the said arm is secured a finger which is arranged when said arm is
operated, to engage an incline on the block above-described, and depress the same,
thereby unlocking the .back-gage and also the back-support. A link connects the
last-described arm with the arm of a hub which is fast on a shaft, so that as the
said shaft is oscillated the arm with its attached parts will be operated. The shaft
extends through the web, and at its ends is mounted in bearings formed in the arm
which forms a connection between one of the upright arms and the web, and in the
end of a short arm which projects from one of the upright arms below the arm
which forms a connection between the other upright arm and the web. Loosely
mounted upon the shaft is a hub formed with two lever-arms. An arm carries on
its end a roller arranged in a path-cam in the outer face of the first cam-disk. An arm
is connected at its end to one end of a link the opposite end of which is connected to
a pin carried by lugs on one arm of a lever the opposite arm of said lever carrying
the awl. The lever is pivoted between its ends upon a sliding pintle, one end of
which is mounted in an angle-iron secured to a lug extending parallel with the
first described web. The opposite end of the sliding pintle extends through
the said web, and is there connected to or formed integral with a slotted bar. The
lever which is pivoted on the sliding pintle is maintained in a predetermined
position on the pintle by nuts fast on the pintle on each side of the lever. The
motion imparted to the awl by means of the above-mentioned path-cam and its
associated parts vibrates said awl to make a path through the stock for the needle,
while the motion imparted to said awl by the sliding of the pintle while the awl is
in the stock carries the shoe forward, the awl being returned to its normal position
by the sliding pintle as soon as the former leaves the stock, the end of the last-
described lever sliding on its pin without affecting the link. A lug is secured to
the webs by screws. The lower end of this lug is slotted, to straddle the link above
described and steady the latter against any sidewise movement due to the sliding
of the awl-carrying lever. The means for operating the sliding pintle to feed the

page_text: shoe may be a hub loosely mounted upon a stud that projects from the upper side
of one of the connecting-arms, this hub being retained on said stud by a nut, and
provided with two lever-arms, one of which carries at its end a roller or projection
arranged in the peripheral path-cam of the third cam-disk, the other arm of said
lever being slotted at its end and connected to the slotted bar of the sliding pintle
by a bolt and nut. By means of the construction of the second of these lever-arms
and the slotted bar, the amount of movement of the pintle, and consequently the
amount of feed, can be regulated at pleasure.
A hub loosely mounted on the shaft is formed with two lever-arms, the former
at its end being provided with a roller which is arranged in a face path-cam of the
first cam-disk, while the end of the other lever-arm is constructed as a slotted link
in whch is secured a pulley under which the thread is arranged, the thread passing
through a guide, over two pulleys secured to studs on the bed plate web on each
side of the first pulley, and over another pulley on the end of an arm, to the looper.
This arm is pivoted at one of its ends, and a spring is secured to the arm between
the pintle and the pulley, to exert an upward pull on the pulley and on the thread.
As the pulley which is secured in the slotted-link lever-arm is forced downward
between the pulleys which are secured to studs on the bed-plate, it will draw enough
thread from the supply for the next stitch.
I mount a hub loosely upon a bolt secured by a nut in the arm which connects
the overhanging bar to the top of the bed-plate web, which hub is formed with two
lever-arms, one of said arms being provided at its end with a roller arranged in the
peripheral path-cam of the first cam-disk, while the end of the other lever-arm is
connected by a link to an arm of a bell-crank lever which is pivoted on a stud pro-
jecting from the bed-plate web. The other arm of the bell-crank lever is slotted,
and in this slot is arranged a pin projecting from the end of a crank on one end of
a rock-shaft. This shaft is mounted in lugs which project from the lug of the bed-
plate web. A looper is connected to the lower end of this shaft, in a position, when
operated, to wrap the thread about the needle when the latter is forced through the
shoe or stock, as is common.
A hub is mounted upon the end of a bolt arranged in the top of the bed-plate
web, close to the overhanging bar. This hub is retained upon the bolt by a nut.
The hub, which is on the same side of the web as the back-support mechanism,
carries an arm which is provided, midway between its ends, with a roller arranged
in a face path-cam of the second cam-disk. At its lower end this arm is pivoted
to one end of a link. The opposite end of this link is pivoted to a member which
is mounted upon a bolt secured in the lower end of the web by a nut. This member
carries the needle, which instead of being provided with a slot or eye, is provided
with a hook at its end, and is arranged to enter the stock from the opposite side of
the awl.
A hub is mounted upon an extension of the hub-carrying bolt last described; sáid
extension being upon the opposite side of the web from the end of said bolt. This
hub is maintained upon said extension by means of a head, and is provided with
two arms. The first of said arms is provided with a roller arranged in a face path-
cam of the second cam-disk. The second of said arms is formed with a slotted end,
in which is mounted a bolt connected to one end of a link. The opposite end of
this link is pivoted to the lower end of a pin which is arranged in a bearing secured
to the web. The opposite side of this pin, on the upper side of its bearing, is
pivoted to one end of a link. The opposite end of this link is pivoted to an's arm of
a rock-shaft mounted in the end of the deflecting portion of the web. The oppo-
site end of this rock-shaft is provided with a crank-arm pivoted to one end of 'a
vertically moving bar which between its ends is mounted to slide in a pivoted
bearing or eye-bolt secured by a nut to the lower end of the deflecting portion of
the web. To the lower end of this bar is secured by a screw, a thread-finger located
upon the same side of the work as the looper, and to be on the opposite side from
the needle and the thread-hook hereinafter described.

page_text: A hub fast on the shaft carries arms by which the channel-guide is operated;
consequently, as the channel-guide is operated, the shaft will be oscillated, and
thereby impart movement to the hub which is fast upon said shaft, and its con-
nected parts, to lock and unlock the back-gage and back-support. One of the hub-
arms carries a roller arranged in a face path-cam of the third cam-disk. The other
of said arms is pivoted at its end to a link which in turn is pivoted to an arm fast
upon a rock-shaft. This rock-shaft extends through the web and at its opposite
end is provided with a crank-pin or lever that is pivoted to a link or rod arranged
to slide in a bearing pivoted to a bolt arranged in the end of the angle-iron and
the side of the web. To the lower end of this link or rod is secured the channel-
guide, it being evident from the construction just described that the locking and
unlocking of the back-support and back-gage will be timed with the movements of
the channel-guide.
A hub loosely mounted on the shaft is provided with two arms, the first of which
carries at its end a roller arranged in a face path-cam of the third cam-disk. The
other of said arms extends from the lower side of this hub, and is pivoted to one
end of a link. The opposite end of this link is pivoted to a strap carrying a pin
or bolt arranged in the slot of an arm fast upon another hub, which hub is mounted
upon an extension of the stud on the lower side of one of the connecting-arms.
This latter hub also carries an arm that extends around under the lower edge of the
web and is provided with a slotted end in which is secured, by a screw, a thread-
hook arranged on the same side of the work as the needle, and on the opposite
side of the work from the looper and the thread-finger.
The operation of the needle, the channel-guide, awl, pull-off arm, back-support,
and back-gage is the same as is common in machines of this class, and a detailed
description thereof is unnecessary.
The operation of the means for setting the stitch while the needle is out of the
stock is as follows:-At the beginning of a stitch operation, the thread-finger
is close to the stock, and the looper has passed the thread over the finger, in order
to hold the thread in a convenient position for the needle to engage the same, the
thread being measured by the pull-off arm and held in the usual way. The thread-
hook holds the previous loop, so that the needle can pass through it. The hook,
looper, and finger are stationary while the needle enters. and leaves the stock,
except for a slight movement of the looper after the needle has pierced the stock,
to insure the thread engaging the needle. As the needle pulls a new loop through
the previous loop, the thread-hook moves to the left, close to the needle, to cast off
the previous loop, and immediately moves to the right a short distance and dwells
to remove the new loop from the needle, to throw the previous loop upon the stock,
and to hold the loop while the finger sets the previous stitch. After the hook has
completed the operation just described, and has come to a dwell, the thread-finger,
which has a movement toward and away from the stock, and which during the
operation just described has been held stationary, close to the stock, is drawn away
from the stock a distance sufficient to set the previous stitch on the needle side of
the stock, as shown, the thread rendering about the loop held by the thread-hook.
As the thread-finger completes its movement to set the previous stitch, and drops
the thread, the thread-hook moves to pull through the slack thread dropped by
the thread-finger. Then the thread-hook has a movement toward the stock to
assume its initial position to hold the loop in position to permit the needle to pass
through the same. As the thread-hook returns to its initial position after drawing
through the slack thread dropped by the thread-finger, the thread-finger takes up
the slack of the thread caused by such inward movement of the thread-hook. The
thread-finger, after it drops the thread, moves toward the work and engages the
thread of the new stitch, and as stated above, when the thread-hook moves toward
the work, the thread-finger again moves outward to take up the slack. The thread
finger engages the thread continuously, except at the time when it drops the thread
of the old stitch in order that the thread-hook may take up the slack. In the pre-

page_text: ferred form of the machine, the thread-finger in addition to the functions already
stated, serves to draw the thread from the supply.
From the foregoing it will be seen that the thread-finger sets the previous stitch
on the needle side while the latter is out of the stock, the thread rendering about
the loop held by the thread-hook and not about the needle. There is a decided
advantage in setting the stitch on the needle side, since the stitch is drawn or set
against a firm part of the leather, and can be set as firm as desired without danger
of injuring the leather. When, on the contrary, the stitch is set in the channel
of the sole, the strain is liable to tear away the lip, or tear the thread through the
lip. The thread-hook in its outward movement merely takes up the slack of the
thread dropped by the thread-finger, and has no stitch-tightening function, strictly
speaking.
The several movements of the parts just described are properly timed with respect
to one another, by means of the path-cams and lever mechanisms heretofore
described.
Improvements in Sewing Machines for Boots and Shoes.
I, HENRY HARRIS LAKE, of the Firm of Haseltine, Lake & Co., Patent Agents,
45 Southampton Buildings, in the County of Middlesex, do hereby declare the
nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to he performed, to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
This invention relates to a new and improved machine for sewing shoes, and
particularly to the mechanism whereby the stitch can be set without the use of the
needle and while the needle is out of the stock. The invention consists in certain
novel features of construction and relative arrangement of parts which will be here-
inafter fully described in the specification, clearly illustrated in the drawings, and
particularly pointed out in the claims.
Reference is to be had to the accompanying six sheets of drawings, forming a
part of this application, in which like characters indicate like parts, wherever they
occur.
Figure 1 represents a front elevation of the machine constructed in accordance
with my invention.
Figure 2 represents a side elevation thereof.
Figure 3 represents a side elevation of my machine, the view being taken from
the opposite side from that shown in Figure 2, the hand-wheel and belt-pulley
being removed.
Figure 4 represents a top plan view of my machine.
Figure o represents a vertical sectional view of the several parts that make up
the framework, the levers being removed in order to show the arrangement of the
cams.
Figures 6 to 10 represent different positions occupied by the needle, the looper,
thread-arm, and thread-hook, during the operation of making and setting a stitch.
a represents the collar of the stand on which the machine rests, the stand not being
shown. a represents the framework of the machine proper, which consists of the
bed-piece or plate a² arranged to rest on the collar a and be secured thereto in any
desired way.
Two upright arms a³ rise from the plate a² and are provided with
journal-bearings a* at a suitable distance above said plate, these arms a³ extending

page_text: a suitable distance above the bearings a; and being connected by an overhanging
bar a5, as shown; a represents a shaft mounted in the bearings a³, a represents a
web extending upward from the plate a between the arms a³ and running from the
back to the front, the plate being cut away around the shaft at a sufficient distance
to permit the cams to be placed thereon, as shown in Figure 3,-the plate a²,
arms a³, bar as, and web a all being cast in one piece. The front end of this web
is formed with a deflecting portion and with a lug arranged on opposite sides
of said web, as represented in Figures 1 and 4. It is to this web that most of the
lever mechanisms of the machine are attached.
a represents an arm cast integral with one of the arms a³ and connecting the
latter with the web,a, this arm a joining the arm a³ a short distance below the
shaft a', as shown at the left in Figure 1, and in Figure 3. a³ represents an arm
on the opposite side of the web from the arm a' and joining the overhanging bar a
to the top of the web a, as shown in Figures 1, 2, 4, and 5. To one end of the
shaft is secured a hub a³, by means of a set-screw 10. This hub carries a
hand-wheel a, and a belt-wheel a¹2 arranged to carry a belt a¹³ that connects the
wheel to any desired source of power.
Upon the shaft a are rigidly mounted three cam-disks y y¹ y³, as shown in
Figure 5, the disks y and y being formed upon their peripheries with path-
cams respectively. Each of the three cam-disks is provided upon each side
with a path-cam, as indicated in dotted lines in Figure 5, the two peripheral path-
cams being indicated in full lines. It is from these path-cams that the
several parts of the machine derive their motion, and by which the several move-
ments are properly timed.
15 represents a back-support connected to the end of a bar at that is mounted to
slide in apertures formed in a lug a projecting from the side of the lower edge of
the web a and in a web a¹8 that extends up a short distance from the plate a² and
joins the web a6 with the arms a³. The rear end of this bar is provided on its
under side with rack-teeth a20 that mesh with a pinion a loosely mounted on a
pin a extending outward from a rearward extension a23 of the web a. A ratchet-
wheel a is also loosely mounted upon this pin, and is cast integral with the
pinion, or secured thereto in any desired way. The ratchet-wheel is retained
on the pin by a nut a26. A coiled spring a25 has one of its ends secured to the pin
and its other end to the ratchet-wheel, and tends to hold the back-support yield-
ingly against the shoe a2, except when the ratchet-wheel is locked, as hereinafter
described. a represents a back-gage arranged above the back-support a¹5 and
beside its bar a¹6 and mounted to slide in apertures in the lug a" and web a¹8. The
free end of this back-gage is forked, to permit the passage of the needle and awl,
and bears against the shoe, above the back-gage. a represents a collar part on the
back-support, between the lug a" and the web a 18. A helical spring a³0 is arranged
on the back-support, between the collar a29 and the web a18, and holds the forked
end of the back-gage yieldingly against the shoe except where the back-gage is
locked, as hereinafter described. a³ represents a pintle secured in the lower part
of the web a by a nut a³, as shown in Figure 1. Upon this pintle is loosely
mounted a hub a" having two lever-arms a and a. To the end of the arm a is
adjustably secured a block a¹³, by means of screws a35. This block carries one or
more dogs a arranged to engage ratchet-teeth a37 on the back-gage as, as shown
in Figure 2, to lock said gage. To the end of the arm a³ is secured by a screw a38,
a dog a arranged to engage the teeth of the ratchet-wheel a to lock the latter
and the back-support. The back-gage and back-support are locked by the mechan-
ism just described while the stitch is being made and set, but are pressed outward
by the springs at other times. 740 represents a helical spring, one end of which
rests upon the plate a², while the other end is engaged by the block a, whereby
the lever-arms a3 a4 are operated to make their respective dogs lock the back-gage
and back-support except when the end of the arm is depressed, as hereinafter
described. a represents an arm pivoted at one end upon a stud at that projects
from the web a. The lower end of this arm carries a set-screw 45, which engages

page_text: a lug a secured to the back-gage as in order to limit the movement of the back-
gage. To the arm is secured a finger a, arranged when said arm is operated,
to engage an incline a on the block 2 and depress the latter, thereby unlocking
the back-gage and also the back-support. a represents a link connecting the
arm with the arm a of a hub, a that is fast on a shaft b, so that when said
shaft is oscillated the arm with its attached parts will be operated.
The
The shaft extends through the web, and at its ends is mounted in bearings
formed in the arm a and in the end of a short arm 52 that projects from the
arm 3 below the arm a³. Loosely mounted upon the shaft b is a hub b¹, formed
with two lever-arms 62 63. The arm carries on its end a roller b, arranged in
The end of the arm b³ is con-
the path-cam y in the outer face of the cam-disk y.
nected to one end of a link 65 the opposite end of which is connected to a pin 66
carried by lugs 67 on one arm of a lever 68, the opposite arm of said lever carrying
the awl . The lever 68 is pivoted between its ends upon a sliding pintle 610, one
end of which is mounted in the angle-iron that is secured to the lug x and
extends parallel with the web aº. The opposite end of the pintle 610 extends
through the web a6 and is there connected to or formed integral with a slotted
bar b. The lever 68 is maintained in a predetermined position on said sliding
pintle 610, by nuts 612 fast on said sliding pintle on each side of said lever.
motion imparted to the awl 69 by means of the path-cam y and its associated parts,
vibrates said awl to make a path through the stock for the needle, while the motion
imparted to said awl by the sliding of the pintle while the awl is in the stock
carries the shoe forward, the awl being returned to its normal position by the slid-
ing pintle, as soon as the former leaves the stock, the end of the lever 68 sliding on
the pin 66 without affecting the link b. A lug 63 is secured to the web a", by
screws 614
The lower end of this lug is slotted, as shown in Figure 1, to straddle
the link b³ and steady the latter against any sidewise movement due to the sliding
of the lever 6. The means for operating the sliding pintle 610 to feed the shoe
are best shown in Figure 3, in which 6 represents a hub loosely mounted upon a
stud 616 that projects from the upper side of the arm a'. This hub is retained on
said stud by a nut 617, and is provided with two lever-arms 618 619. The arm 618
carries at its end a roller or projection 20 arranged in the peripheral path-cam y
of the cam-disk y². The arm 619 is slotted at its end, and is connected to the
slotted bar 61 of the sliding pintle by a bolt and nut 1. By means of the con-
struction of the arm 619 and the slotted bar b¹¹, the amount of movement of the
pintle, and consequently the amount of feed, can be regulated at pleasure.
f represents a hub loosely mounted on the shaft b. This hub is formed with two
lever arnis ff, the former at its end being provided with a roller f" that is
arranged in the face path-cam y of the cam-disk y, while the end of the arm f
is constructed as a slotted link f³, in which is secured a pulley ft under which the
thread f is arranged, the thread passing through a guide fo, over two pulleys ff
secured to studs on the web a on each side of the pulley f, over a pulley fi³ on
the end of an arm f, to the looper 2. The arm f is pivoted at one of its ends,
and a spring fo is secured to said arm between the pintle and the pulley f13, to
exert an upward pull on the pulley and on the thread f5. As the pulley f4 is
forced downward between the pulleys ff, it will draw enough thread from the
supply for the next stitch.
c represents a hub loosely mounted upon a bolt c¹ secured by a nut 3 in the
arm. This hub is formed with two lever-arms. The arm at its end is
provided with a roller arranged in the peripheral path-cam y³ of the cam-disk y,
while the end of the arm is connected by a link to an arm of a bell-crank
lever that is pivoted on a stud c' projecting from the web a6. The other arm of
the bell-crank lever is slotted, as at cs, and in this slot is arranged a pin e pro-
jecting from the end of a crank co on one end of a rock-shaft c. This shaft is
mounted in lugs c that project from the lug r¹ of the web a A looper c¹² is
connected to the lower end of this shaft, in a position, when operated, to wrap
the

page_text: thread about the needle when the latter is forced through the shoe or stock, as is
common.
h represents a hub mounted upon the end 2 of a bolt h¹, arranged in the top of
the web a, close to the bar a5, as shown. This hub h is retained upon the bolt h
by a nut h³. This hub, which is on the same side of the web a as the back-support
mechanism, carries an arm / that midway its ends is provided with a roller h
that is arranged in the face path-cam y of the cam-disk y'. At its lower end this
arm is pivoted to one end of a link h6. The opposite end of this link (see Figures 2
and 3) is pivoted to a member h' that is mounted upon a bolt 78 secured in the lower
end of the web a by a nut hº. This member h' carries the needle h10, which instead
of being provided with a slot or eye, is provided with a hook at its end, and is
arranged to enter the stock from the opposite side of the awl 69 shown in Figure 2.
m represents a hub mounted upon an extension m¹ of the bolt h¹ that is upon the
opposite side of the web a from the end 2 of said bolt. Inis hub is maintained
upon the end m¹ by means of a head m², and is provided with two arms m³ m.
The arm m³ is provided with a roller m³ arranged in the face path-cam y8 of the
cam-disk y. The arm m is formed with a slotted end m6 (see Figures 2 and 3),
in which is mounted a bolt m7 connected to one end of a link m8. The opposite end
of this link is pivoted to the lower end of a pin m³ that is arranged in a bearing mo
secured to the web aº. The opposite end of this pin mo, on the upper side of the
bearing mo, is pivoted to one end of a link m¹. The opposite end of this link is
pivoted to an arm m¹² of a rock shaft m13 that is mounted in the end of the deflect-
ing portion of the web a. The opposite end of this rock-shaft is provided with
a crank-arm m¹ that is pivoted to one end of a vertically moving bar m15, which
between its ends is mounted to slide in a pivoted bearing or eye-bolt m16 secured
by a nut m¹ to the lower end of the deflecting portion a. To the lower end of this
bar m, by a screw m18, is secured a thread-finger m¹, that is located upon the same
side of the work as the looper c¹², and to be upon the opposite side from the
needle ho and the thread-hook hereinafter described.
rrepresents a hub fast on the shaft b, carrying arms 12 by which the channel-
guide is operated. Consequently, as the channel-guide is operated, the shaft b
will be oscillated, and thereby impart movement to the hub and its connected
parts, to lock and unlock the back-gage and back-support. The arm 2 carries a
roller arranged in the face path-cam y" of the cam-disk y². The arm at its
end is pivoted to a link r, that in turn is pivoted to an arm fast upon a rock-
shaft 6 This rock-shaft extends through the web 6, and at its opposite end is
provided with a crank-pin or lever that is pivoted to a link or rod 8 arranged
to slide in a bearing pivoted to a bolt that is arranged in the end of the angle-
iron 2 and the side of the web a. To the lower end of this rod 8 is secured the
channel-guide-it being evident from the construction just described, that the
locking and unlocking of the back-support and back-gage will be timed with
the movements of the channel guide
t represents a hub loosely mounted on the shaft 6. This hub is provided with
arms. The arm at its end carries a roller that is arranged in the face
path-cam y of cam-disk y². The arm extends from the lower side of this hub,
and is pivoted to one end of a link (see Figure 3). The opposite end of this link
is pivoted to a strap to that carries a pin or bolt arranged in the slot t' of an arm t8
fast upon a hub to. This hub is mounted upon an extension of the bolt 616 on the
lower side of the arm a7, as shown in Figure 3. This hub also carries an arm (10
that extends around under the lower edge of the web and is provided with a
slotted end t, in which by a screw t2, is secured a thread-hook t¹³ that is arranged
on the same side of the work as the needle, and on the opposite side of the work
from the looper and the thread-finger m¹º.
The operation of the needle, the channel-guide, awl, pull-off arm, back-support,
and back-gage are the same as is common in machines of this class, and a detailed
description thereof is unnecessary.
The operation of the means for setting the stitch while the needle is out of the

page_text: The
stock is best illustrated in Figures 6 to 10. In Figure 10, I have shown the posi-
tion of the parts at the beginning of a stitch operation. The thread-finger m¹9 is
close to the stock, and the looper has passed the thread over the finger, in order to
hold the thread in a convenient position for the needle to engage the same, the
thread being measured by the pull-off arm, and held in the usual way.
thread-hook holds the previous loop so that the needle can pass through it. The
hook, looper, and finger are stationary, or in the position shown in Figures 6
and 10, while the needle enters and leaves the stock, except for a slight movement
of the looper (see Figure 6), after the needle has pierced the stock, to insure the
thread engaging the needle. As the needle pulls a new loop through the previous
loop (see Figure 7), the thread-hook 13 moves to the left, close to the needle, to cast
off the previous loop, and immediately moves to the right a short distance, and
dwells to remove the new loop from the needle, to throw the previous loop upon the
stock, or to the position shown in Figure 8, and to hold the loop while the finger
sets the previous stitch. After the hook 13 has completed the operation just
described, and has come to a dwell, the thread-finger, which has a movement
toward and away from the stock, and which during the operation just described has
been held stationary, close to the stock (see Figures 6, 7, and 10), is drawn away
from the stock to the position shown in Figure 8, a distance sufficient to set the
previous stitch on the needle side of the stock, as shown, the thread rendering about
the loop held by the thread-hook.
As the thread-finger completes its movement to set the previous stitch, and drops
the thread, the thread-hook 13 moves from the position shown in Figure 8 to that
shown in Figure 9, to pull through the slack thread dropped by the thread-finger.
Then the thread-hook has a movement toward the stock, to assume its initial posi-
tion to hold the loop in position to permit the needle to pass through the same, as
shown in Figure 10. As the thread-hook returns to its initial position, after draw-
ing through the slack thread dropped by the thread-finger, the thread-finger takes
up the slack of the thread caused by such inward movement of the thread-hook.
The thread-finger, after it drops the thread, moves toward the work and engages
the thread of the new stitch (see Figures 9 and 10), and as stated above, when the
thread-hook moves toward the work, the thread-finger again moves outward, as
shown in Figure 6, to take up the slack. The thread-finger engages the thread
continuously, except at the time when it drops the thread of the old stitch (see
Figure 9) in order that the thread-hook may take up the slack. In the form of
machine as shown, the thread-finger, in addition to the functions already stated,
serves to draw the thread from the supply.
From the foregoing it will be seen that the thread-finger sets the previous stitch
on the needle side while the latter is out of the stock, the thread rendering about
the oop held by the thread-hook, and not about the needle. There is a decided
advantage in setting the stitch on the needle side, since the stitch is drawn or set
against a firm part of the leather, and can be set as firm as desired without danger
of injuring the leather. When, on the contrary, the stitch is set in the channel
of the sole, the strain is liable to tear away the lip, or tear the thread through the
lip. The thread-hook in its outward movement merely takes up the slack of the
thread dropped by the thread-finger, and has no stitch-tightening function, strictly
speaking.
The several movements of the parts just described are properly timed with respect
to one another, by means of the path-cams and lever mechanisms heretofore
described.
I do not claim the combination, in a shoe-sewing machine, with a hook-needle
and means for actuating the same, of a stitch-tightening device located on the same
side of the work as the needle, and means for operating said device to engage the
loop of thread pulled through by the needle, and to tighten the stitch while the
needle is still out of the work, as I am not the first inventor thereof, my invention
being embodied in the following claims.

page_text: Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said in-
vention and in what manner the same is to be performed, as communicated to me
by my foreign correspondents, I declare that what I claim is:-
1. In a machine organized for sewing shoes, a hook-needle, a stitch-tightening
finger located on the opposite side of the material to be sewed from the neeuie,
and adapted to set the previous stitch while the needle is out of the work, and a
thread-pulling hook located on the needle side, and adapted to remove the loops
from the needle and place them in position for the needle to pass the succeeding
loop therethrough.
2. The combination, in a shoe-sewing machine, with a hook-needle and means
for actuating the same, a stitch-tightening device on the awl side of the work,
means for operating said device to set the previous stitch while the needle is out
of the work, and a thread-hook on the needle side of the work, mean's for actuating
the same, said hook being adapted to remove the loop from the needle as it is drawn
through the work and the previous loop, and to hold the new loop while the thread-
finger sets the previous stitch on the needle side of the work when the needle is
out of the stock, then to be moved to take up the slack, and to place the loop held
by said hook in position for the next stitch.
3. In a machine organized for sewing shoes, in combination, a hook-needle and
means for actuating the same, a thread-pulling hook located on the needle side
of the work, a thread-finger located on the opposite side of the work, means for
actuating said parts, said hook being adapted to remove the loop from the needle
as it is drawn through the work and the previous loop, and to hold the new loop
while the thread-finger sets the previous stitch on the needle side of the work,
then to be moved to take up the slack, and to place the loop. held by said hook in
position for the next stitch."
4. In a machine of the class described, a needle, mechanism for operating said
needle to pass a loop of thread through the material and the preceding loop, means
for removing the last loop from the needle, and means for drawing the thread from
the supply side to set the previous stitch on the needle side of the material while
the needle is out of the material, said first-mentioned means being timed to. move
thereafter to take up the slack thread on the supply side.
Dated this 8th day of June 1897
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
45 Southampton Buildings, London, W.C., Agents for the Applicant.