IMPROVEMENTS AWELRY AN ARDIDAMIS FOR SEWING STITCHING. OR ORNAMENTING."
Year: 1854

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Julian Bernard, of Club Chambers, Regent Street, in
the County of Middlesex, Gentleman, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS
AWELRY AN
ARDIDAMIS FOR SEWING STITCHING. OR ORNAMENTING."
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Julian Bernard at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 6th
May 1854.
I, JULIAN BERNARD, of Club Chambers, Regent Street, in the County of
Middlesex, Gentleman, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for
"IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR SEWING, STITCHING, OR ORNA-
MENTING," to be as follows:-
My said improvements consists, first, of a novel mode of feeding or travelling
the material to be stitched or operated upon during such operation, and which
I perform by passing the material between the ends or jaws of two spring
levers or plyers, placed upon a centre common to both arms or levers; or the
arms may be connected together, and one of them placed upon a suitable
centre. I prefer the lower part of the curved arm. carrying the needle for
such centre. Another mode of feeding or travelling the material consists of
travelling it by means of one arm, one end of which is placed upon a centre
and free to move, while the other end bears upon the material underneath or
immediately near the needle. The spring arm described and referred to,-for

page_text: holding down the material to be operated upon, in my Provisional Specification
of the Sixth day of December 1853, for "Improvements in Machinery or
Apparatus for Stitching and Ornamenting various Materials," will answer this
purpose, a suitable motion being imparted to it, as herein-before referred to;
and when one arm is employed to travel or move the material, a small wheel,
toothed or otherwise, may be employed, and placed loose upon a stud under-
neath the material, and below the end of said lever between which the material
travels; or said lever may be employed. in. conjunction with another arm or
lever, placed beneath the bed.plate of the machine, and connected together, as
formerly referred to, and placed loose upon a centre, as described. I impart
motion to the lever or levers by means of a cam placed upon a shaft in the
machine, either direct or through the intervention of a lever; and said lever or
levers may be made to part or lift slightly, so as to leave their hold and take
hold alternately of the material by means of a fork, or a
an incline, or eccentric
and spring. And I also propose to employ a slight spring or pin in connection
with such arm or arms, which may be attached to or connected with said
springs or levers, and which are for the purpose of keeping or retaining the
material in its proper place when motion is imparted to the lever or levers
referred to, for the purpose of. moving the material. And in some instances I
propose to employ said lever or levers in conjunction with an endless band or
strap described by me in the before-mentioned Provisional Specification, for
the purpose of travelling the material to be operated upon.
Another part of my Invention consists of a novel and improved mode of
holding the needle in the rod or slide which carries it, and consists in employing
a strong spring or clip in the end of said rod, laid or placed in the direction of
its length, and which is so formed or placed in the rod as to press upon the
needle and retain it in its proper place; or the end of the rod may be forced.
apart by a suitable pair of plyers, which have tapered ends turned inwards and
towards each other; these taper ends are forced into small holes in the sides
-of-the-rod, so as to part or open at its end, which is made in two pieces.
Another part of my said improvements consists of employing marble,
porcelain, stone, earthen or stone ware, in various parts of stitching machines,
such as in the bed plate of said machines, and in the end of the lever or foot
which presses or moves the material.
Another part of my said Invention relates to and consists of a novel
arrangement for causing the same machine or parts of the same machine
to perform different operations, or be brought to bear or act at different parts
of a common bed plate, and which I perform by making the vertical needle
with its rod or holder, and some of the parts immediately connected with it,

page_text: capable of being moved or travelled, not upon a centre or in a circular direc-
tion, but in a lateral one, and which may be performed by means of a screw,
by placing said parts upon a slide or feathered rod, and travelled by means of
a screw or other equivalent, and travelled to a desired part of the machine,
and used in connection with suitable parts, for producing any desired descrip-
tion of stitch; and the cam or lever may also be moved or travelled on said
slide or shaft.
Another portion of my improvements consists of employing two endless
bands for traversing the material to be operated upon, the needle being
passed between the two bands as it is passed through the material; and I also
raise the space or portion of the bed plate immediately along the edge of the
band, and which, when two bands are employed, would be placed between the
edges of said bands, and on a level, or nearly so, with them; and such projection
or division will always have the effect of keeping the bands any desired distance
apart, and to allow the needle to pass freely between them.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Julian Bernard in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
6th November 1854.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS. SHALL COME; I, JULIAN
BERNARD, of Club Chambers, Regent Street, in the County of Middlesex,
Gentleman, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Sixth day of May, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and fifty-four, in the seventeenth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the
said Julian Bernard, Her special license that I, the said Julian Bernard,
my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Julian
Bernard, my executors, administrators, or assigns, should at any time agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the
term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel
Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR
APPARATUS FOR SEWING, STITCHING OR ORNAMENTING," upon the. condition
(amongst others) that I, the said Julian Bernard, by an instrument in writing
under my hand and seal, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature
of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and
-

page_text: cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar
months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Julian Bernard, do hereby declare the
nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed,
to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following state-
ment, reference being had to the accompanying Drawings, and to the letters
and figures marked thereon, that is to say:--
My Invention relates, firstly, to an improved and novel mode of feeding or
travelling the material to be stitched, ornamented, or operated upon, so as to
be presented to the needle or needles at the proper time and place.
Secondly, to an improved mode of holding the needle in the rod or slide
which carries it.
Thirdly, in making the bed plate or table of sewing machines of marble,
china, or stoneware.
Fourthly, to the employment of two endless bands for giving motion to the
material (and between which bands the needle is made to pass through the
material).
And in order that my Invention may be fully understood, I shall now
proceed to describe the several Figures on the Sheet of Drawings hereto
attached.
Figs. 1 and 2 on the Sheet of Drawings illustrate partly in section my
improved mode of feeding and travelling the material underneath the needle,
and consists of two spring or rigid levers, which form plyers, as shown. A marks
the upper or top arm, which may either be formed curved, as exhibited, or be
formed as at Figure 2. B marks the lower arm or lever of the plyers; C. marks
the bed plate; D, a nut or sliding piece, and which is free to move laterally
upon the rod or stud E, which stud is fixed in the bed plate of the machine. F
marks the jaw or pressing part of the top lever; and G, the lower jaw; H, the
material; I marks a lever arm or finger-secured to the-bed-plate-by the pin K,
and which is for the purpose of holding the material on the bed plate during
the time the levers make their return-motion. L-is-a spring, which may be of
india-rubber, for the purpose of holding the jaws of the levers apart during
their return motion, while the cam M is so formed as to press them together
There is a pin N fixed in the lower lever, and which is kept pressed by means
of a spring to the cam O, which, together with the cam M, may be placed
upon a separate or the main shaft of the machine. 1, 1, are pins, which
secure the levers to the nut or moveable piece D, as shewn, and which said
levers are loose. The cams M and O are suitably formed, to impart the
necessary motion to the plyers, which will be readily understood by a practical

page_text: mechanic. The arrangement shewn at Fig. 1 is intended to move laterally
upon the pin H, and the arrangement shewn at Fig. 2 moves in a semicircular
direction, the pin D 1 forming the centre on which it moves; or it may be fixed
to the pin, and the pin made to move and in some cases I propose to dispense
with the upper lever, in which case I employ the pressing spring I in connec-
tion with the lower one; or I make the upper lever A stationary, and to serve
only as a presser and impart motion to the lower one only, and the levers may
be placed or secured to or upon separate centres; but I prefer the arrange-
ments exhibited. I have not thought it necessary to shew the feeding
arrangement in connection with any particular machine, as it can be applied to
many of the well-known arrangements for stitching; and I would remark, that
although I have shewn the cams M and O, as a means by which my improved
arrangement can be actuated, I do not confine myself to any mode of actuating
the said arrangement; nor do I claim the use or application of such cams;
but what I do claim is, the use and application of plyers or arms placed upon
centres or slides, whether such arms be placed upon separate centres or slides,
or upon one common to both, as shewn, whether used separate or together, as
herein-before referred to.
Fig. 3 shews a side, and Fig. 4, a front view, of a particular mode of holding
the needle in stitching machines. Fig. 5 shews an instrument I employ when
the needle is to be put into the rod or taken out of it. This part of my
improvements consists of so forming or making the end of the rod that it will
hold the needle independent of any other means, such as a screw or clip; the
manner in which I perform this part of my improvements is as follows:-
I split the end of the rod which is to receive the needle, and which rod
I prefer to be of steel; I then press or force it together, and set it in that
position so that it will require a considerable amount of force to part it; I then
bore a hole rather smaller than the diameter of the needle in the slotted end.
When the needle is to be inserted in the rod, the slit ends are forced open or
parted by means of the plyers, shewn at Fig. 5, and withdrawn by the same
means. In this manner and by these means I securely hold the needle or
needles in their holder or carrier.
Another portion of my said Invention consists of the use and application of
marble, china, porcelain, stone, or earthen ware to the table or bed plate, or
part of said table or bed plate, of stitching machines, instead of the materials
usually employed for that purpose, such materials being more elegant and
ornamental than metal or wood, and has the advantage of great cleanliness.
Fig. 6-illustrates an improved mode of travelling the material, and consists of
placing an endless band or chain on each side of the needle in the direction in

page_text: which the needle is travelled. A, at said Fig. marks the needle; b and b¹, the
bands; C, a portion of a bed plate. These bands may be placed upon rollers,
and an intermittent motion imparted to them by any convenient means. I do
not claim the use or application of a band, or the means of imparting motion
to a band, as such is not novel; but what I do claim is, the employment of two
bands or chains, and placing or disposing of such bands, as described and
illustrated.
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of my Inven-
tion, and the manner in which the same is or may be used or carried into
effect, I may observe, in conclusion, that I do not confine or restrict myself to
the precise details or arrangements which I have had occasion to describe or
refer to, as many variations may be made therefrom without deviating from
the principles or main features of my Invention.
In witness whereof, I, the said Julian Bernard, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Sixth day of November, One thousand eight
hundred and fifty-four.
מוזומחוז זזזזזז