Year: 1889

page_text: Date of Application, 26th Nov., 1889-Accepted, 1st Nov., 1890
Figure 2, is a view of the trimming showing the ribbon or tape combined there-
with.
Figure 3, is a side view of the improved machine for producing the trimming.
Figure 4, is a plan view of sufficient of the machine to illustrate the parts to which
our invention particularly relates.
Figures 5 and 6 are plan views showing these parts in different positions from those
illustrated in Figure 4.
Figure 7, is a side view of a machine similar to that shown in our former Patent,
but illustrating an addition which we have made thereto for the purpose of
automatically applying the ribbon or tape to the trimming produced upon the
machine.
Figure 8, is a side view of part of the machine shown in Figure 7, with some of
the parts in a different position from that shown in Figure 7, and
Figure 9 is a view illustrating a modified construction of the machine for the
purpose of automatically applying the ribbon or tape.
The class of trimming for the production of which the machine shown in Figures 3
and 4, is especially intended, is that in which a thread w is carried straight across
from the inner line of stitches x on the fabric, to the outer line of stitches y-beyond
the edge of the fabric, and in which an independent thread w' forms loops or festoons
engaging with the outer row of stitches only, although as hereinafter set forth, the
machine can be readily modified to produce the other forms of trimming described
and illustrated in the before mentioned Specification.
The automatic introduction of the ribbon or tape into the trimming, as shown in
Figure 2, may also be carried out in connection with different forms of machinery for
controlling the threads of which the trimming is made, as will be understood from the
Specification.
needle bar
a,
The machine shown in Figures 3 and 4, has two needles x, y, carried by a single
which is guided in a pivoted frame a', and is reciprocated vertically by
the needle lever A which is pivoted on the fixed frame A¹ of the machine, and is
operated by a cam or eccentric b on the driving shaft, this cam or eccentric acting on
the needle lever through the medium of a connecting rod b.
Besides the vertical reciprocating movement imparted to the needle bar by the
needle lever, said needle bar and its needles have also a slight lateral movement, which
is permitted by the swinging frame a¹ in which the needle bar is guided, the effect
being that the stitches produced are of zig-zag character, so that, of the row of stitches
formed adjacent to the edge of the fabric, one half of the stitches will be on the fabric,
TD 1111

page_text: and the other half just beyond the edge, the stitches being consequently of the
character known as "overedge" stitches, so that the bars or cross threads won the
trimming will be bound to the very edge of the fabric, and will not overlie the latter
to any material extent on either side, thus providing a close imitation of hand
crotcheted border.
The character of the stitches is illustrated in Figures 1 and 2.
In order to impart the lateral movement to the needle bar and its needles, said
needle bar is controlled by a lever d hung to the fixed frame of the machine, and
connected by a rod d¹, to a lever e, which is acted upon by a cam B, carried by a
sleeve B', the latter being free to turn on a stud e' secured to and projecting from
the fixed frame of the machine, and the sleeve having a spur wheel B2, which meshes
with a spur pinion B³ on the driving shaft of the machine.
The shuttles, looping hooks, or other devices co-acting with the needles to produce
stitches, are not shown in the drawing, as they form no part of our invention,
and may be similar to any one of a number of such devices now in use for the
purpose.
The guide D, which controls the thread or threads w and causes it or them to be
carried across from one to the other of the parallel rows of stitches, is carried by a
lever D¹, pivoted to the base plate of the machine, the short arm of this lever
constituting a toothed segment f which meshes with a segment fl on an arm D²,
likewise hung to the base plate of the machine, and having a pin f2, (shown by dotted
lines in Figure 4) which pin is acted upon by a cam E, secured to a shaft F, which
is free to turn in suitable bearings on the base plate of the machine, and is driven
from the sleeve B₁ by means of a spur pinion F₁ on said sleeve meshing into a spur
wheel F2 on the shaft F.
The guide G for the thread or threads w¹ forming the outer or festooned edge of
the trimming is carried by an arm G₁ hung to the base of the machine, and having
at one end a slot g for receiving an antifriction roller g¹ on the end of an arm H,
which is hung to a bracket H on the frame and has a pin g² (shown by dotted lines
in Figure 4) which pin is acted upon by a cam E¹ on the shaft F.
By these means the thread guides D and G are so vibrated that the thread wis
caused to cross from one row of stitches to the other at suitable intervals; and the
festooning thread is caused to engage with the outer row of stitches only, as in the
patented trimming hereinbefore referred to.
The lever D and its operating devices may be duplicated when threads are to cross
simultaneously from the opposite rows of stitches.
In the present instance we have shown the guides D and G as each having two
openings for the reception of two threads but they may have a single opening only
or more than two openings if desired.
By suitably forming and adjusting the cam E¹ the dwell of the guide G may occur
when said guide is beyond the needle y' as shown in Figure 4 so as to form a festoon
of any desired length and in like manner the cam E may be so formed and adjusted
that the dwell of the guide D may take place when said guide is either outside of the
needles as shown in Figure 4 or inside of the same as shown in Figure 5 depending
upon whether the thread w is to extend from bar to bar along the outer row of
stitches y or along the inner row of stitches <.
In connection with the machine we use a tape or ribbon guide J which may be of
any suitable form or construction that shown in the drawing being a simple plate with
upwardly and inwardly turned edges forming a guide tapering or converging from
the receiving end to the discharge end.
This guide is mounted upon a vertical stem J suitably guided in bearings in the
base plate or frame of the machine and this stem has a rack which is engaged by a
pinion i on a shaft K mounted in bearings at the front of the machine the opposite end
of this shaft having a pinion which meshes with a segmental rack m on one arm of
a lever M the other arm of which has an antifriction roller m¹ which enters the slot
of a cam M on the inner face of the spur wheel F of the shaft F.
As the shaft F rotates therefore the lever M is vibrated and a rocking movement

page_text: is imparted to the shaft K thus causing a rising and falling movement of the stem J¹
and ribbon guide J.
These movements take place in the intervals between the movements of the thread
guides D and G that is to say supposing that the ribbon guide occupies a depressed
position the thread or threads carried by the guide D will be laid above the same as
shown in Figure 5 on one movement of the guide but when the guide has been
retracted to the position shown in Figure 4 the ribbon guide is elevated so that when
the guide D again swings forward it carries its thread beneath the ribbon as shown in
Figure 6 hence the ribbon is automatically threaded into the trimming during the
process of making the latter.
The tape or ribbon guide J may be applied to other machines than that shown in
Figures 3 and 4 and may be operated by mechanism different from that shown in said
figures without departing from the essential feature of this part of our invention for
instance in Figure 7 we have shown a ribbon guide combined with a machine of the
same general character as that set forth in the Specification herein before referred to
hence the stitch forming mechanism of this machine need not be here described nor
need there be any specific description of the means for laying the crossing thread
from needle to needle two thread guiding levers I¹ I' for this purpose being shown in
the drawing.
The ribbon guide consists of a slot at a lower end of a slide J2 which is suitably
guided in any available part of the fixed frame, and has near its upper end a slot n
for the reception of a crank pin n' on a disk p which is provided with a spur wheel p¹
meshing with a guided rack s the latter being reciprocated through the medium of a
lever s¹ by another portion of the same cam which operates the slide controlling the
thread guiding levers I¹ I'.
When the rack is at one extreme of its movement as shown in Figure 7 the ribbon
guide J2 is elevated and the ribbon is fed in above the crossing threads but when the
rack is at the opposite limit of its movement the ribbon will be fed in below the
crossing threads as shown in Figure 8.
In applying the ribbon feeding device to the double lever machine shown in the
drawing attached to the Specification hereinbefore referred to said levers should have
bent lower ends, as shown in Figure 9 so as to permit the threads carried thereby to
cross beneath the ribbon when the ribbon guide is elevated as shewn in Fig. 7 and
in some cases the ribbon guide may be a stationary one as shown for instance at J³
in Figure 9 the construction there shewn contemplating the raising and lowering of
the thread guiding levers instead of the ribbon guide, said levers being hung to a
slide t which is reciprocated vertically by means similar to those shown in Figure 7
for reciprocating the slide J2 and the thread guiding levers being operated by a link t¹
so as to permit its rising and falling movement.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what
we claim is.
First. The mode herein described of making trimmings or borders for fabrics, said
mode consisting in forming two rows or lines of stitches connecting the same by
crossing or barring threads, and feeding a tape or ribbon alternately under and over
said crossing or barring threads during the formation of the trimming.
Second. The combination of a sewing machine having stitch forming mechanism
with spaced needles, a guide for carrying a crossing or barring thread from needle
to needle a tape or ribbon guide and means for raising or lowering either the thread
guide or ribbon guide so that the ribbon will be laid alternately under and over the
crossing thread.
Third. The combination of a sewing machine having stitch forming mechanism
with spaced needles, a guide for laying a crossing or barring thread from needle to
needle and other guide for laying a festooning thread around the outer needle and a
rising and falling ribbon guide for feeding a ribbon alternately under and over the
crossing or barring threads.

page_text: Fourth. The combination of the ribbon guide the stem of the same having a rack,
a rock shaft having a pinion engaging with said rack a lever having a toothed
segment engaging with another pinion on said rock shaft and a cam for vibrating
said lever.
Fifth. The combination of the stitch forming mechanism of the machine having
spaced needles with a guide for a crossing or barring thread a lever carrying the saine
and having a toothed arm, a second toothed arm meshing with that of the lever and a
cam for vibrating said second arm.
Sixth. The combination of the stitch forming mechanism having spaced needles, a
guide for a festoon thread, an arm carrying said guide, a second arm engaging there-
with, and a cam for vibrating the latter arm.
Seventh. The combination of a sewing machine having a vertically reciprocating
and laterally moving needle for forming a row of zig-zag or overedge stitches, with a
guide for laying an independent thread so that it will be incorporated with said row
of stitches.
Eighth. The combination of a sewing machine having a pair of spaced needles,
reciprocating vertically and moving laterally, with a guide for laying a crossing or
barring thread from needle to needle, and a second guide for laying a festooning
thread, around one of the needles only.
Dated the 26th day of November 1880