Year: 1893

page_text: Date of Application, 9th Feb., 1893
Complete Specification Left, 24th Oct., 1893-Accepted, 20th Jan., 1894
The dotted line h, e, 3, and m, is undress.
The nick "Z" on forepart, to be fixed to "X" at the bottom of seat, and
ein. above the nick "Z" is seams with which to continue the short closing
am to fly nicks " 2 and 3."
Sheet 2. Shows the old style, and is cut to the same measures as diagram
heet I, the scam "a "when joined to "6" being at angles creates much length in
aking up, and this length forms one, two, or three diagonal folds as lines "d, e, f.
Sheet 3 Fig. 2. The solid lines show the old style in which the joining of the
< a and b
come directly under the fork, and tend to cause pressure on the
stacles, the lines-1, 1, 1, show the deviation of new style applied to the old.
ams
"

page_text: Sheet 3 Fig. 1. Back view made up, the dotted lines-o, o. showing the altered
position of seam higher up seat, and so dispenses with the meeting of seams directly
under fork as shown by a, b, Fig. 1 and a, b, Fig. 2, the back length is so shortened
and the width maintained by the extended fork-Sheet I from to Z.
Improved Method of Cutting-out Trousers.
_ I, HENRY WHITE 104 Myddelton Road Horusey London, N. Middlesex
Tailor's Cutter do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner
-the-same is to-be performed,-to-be-particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement :-
The object of this invention is,―
1st. To clear away all superfluous material at the back part of the top of legs
and seat, and so to produce a perfect yet easy fit.
2nd. To dispense with leg seams coming directly under the fork.
3rd. To dispense with seat seam in (4 or double width material).
4th. In all cases, and in all materials they are cut without or with a side seam.
"The drawings (3 sheets' same as those filed with my Provisional Specification."
The method of effecting the same is as follows,—
1st. The perpendicular underside leg seam line "a, b, X, Sheet 1" dispenses with
the length created by the lines "a and 6" Sheet 2, old style, which, by running
gradually outward at top are thereby longer, and produce both length and width at
the back of seat and inside leg, in the form of folds or creases as indicated at
lines d, e, f, Sheet 2."
66
2nd. From "g to Z" Sheet 1, is the whole stride which dispenses with the
seam a, b, Fig. 2, Sheet 3, which seam comes directly under the fork. The
joining of "Y to X" Sheet 1, carries the seam to the back,. as indicated by
the line "o, o," Fig. 1, Sheet 3.
3rd. The line "a b, X, P" represents edge of cloth, and in (for double-width
material) there is consequently no seam from "e to P."
4th. The line "d, q; r "Sheet 1, represents the side of the trousers, at which no
seam is required, but a seam may be continued through from "d to "if desired,
allowing in. at "
20, s, Z, Y."
The following is a practical method of bringing my invention into effect. The
measures are, leg 294, seat 36, waist 30, thigh 24, knee 19, bottom 18. Commence
by squaring lines "A, P, W."
a to b-17 in. knee mark.
a
"
-321-leg 294 and 2½ in. added which is in. less than of seat.
C P-9 in. (rise).
"
C d-9 in. of seat.
دو
e-9 in. of seat.
in. added for dress.
h-9 in. (rise).
d
"
e
26 96288
"
fand fis
رو
e
9 »
"
"
t-4
a
"
a 19
9-3 in.
of seat.
of seat.
-9 in.
-9 in.
of seat.
of seat.
w is bottom 18 in. and in. added for seams.

page_text: J IS waistband.
The line h, e, 3, and m, is undress.
The nick "Z" on forepart to be fixed to "X" at the bottom of seat, and
the in. above the nick Z is seams with which to continue the short closing seam
to fly-nicks "2 and 3."
Sheet 2. Shows the old style, and is cut to the same measures as diagram on
Sheet 1, the seam a" when joined to "6" being at angles creates much length in
the process of making up, and this length forms one, two, or three diagonal folds as
lines d, e, f.
Sheet 3 Fig. 2. The solid lines show the old style in which the joining of the
seams a and "come directly under the fork, and tend to cause pressure on the
testacles, the lines "1, 1, 1" show the deviation of new style applied to the old.
"
Sheet "3" Fig. 1. Back view (made up) the line "o, o shows the altered
position of seam higher up seat, and so dispenses with the meeting of seams directly
under fork, as shown by "A, B" Fig. 1, and "a b" Fig. 2, the back length is so
to Z.
shortened and the width maintained by the extended fork-Sheet 1-from g
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inveu-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is,
1. The perpendicular underside leg seams.
2. To dispense with any seam direct under fork.
3. To dispense with seat seam (f goods).
4. Without a side seam (or with).