IMPROVEMENTS IN PANTALOONS AND OTHER GARMENTS
Year: 1876

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Henry Edward Newton, of the Office for Patents, 66,
Chancery Lane, in the County of Middlesex, Civil Engineer, for the Invention
of "IMPROVEMENTS IN PANTALOONS AND OTHER GARMENTS." A communication
from abroad by George R. Eager, of Boston, in the State of Massachusetts,
United States of America.
Sealed the 4th August 1876, and dated the 31st May 1870.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Henry Edward Newton at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 31st May 1876.
"
HENRY EDWARD NEWTON, of the Office for Patents, 66, Chancery Lane, in the
County of Middlesex, Civil Engineer. IMPROVEMENTS IN PANTALOONS AND OTHER
GARMENTS."
This Invention relates to improvements in the mode of making garments, such as
pantaloons, overalls or overhauls, drawers, blouses or overshirts, by means of which
the same garment can be made to fit persons having different sized waists, or
garments having different sized waists can be made to fit the same person.
The first part of the Invention consists in combining one or more straps and
buckles and a hollow waistband with the garment that is being made.
The second part of the Invention consists in combining a reeving loop or loops
with the strap or straps and hollow waistband of a garment whereby the process
of adjustment is much facilitated.
In carrying out the Invention the waistband may be made hollow all round, or
the rear part only, or the sides only may be hollow.
One, two, or more straps for drawing in the waistband may be used, and these
straps are attached to the garment inside the waistband at one or more points. The
strap or straps project through the waistband at the front rear or sides of the garment
and will take into a buckle or buckles suitably placed for the purpose.
Or the strap
or straps may be combined with a reeving loop or loops placed inside the hollow
waistband and suitably attached thereto at the front, rear, or sides, the outer end or
ends of the strap or straps taking into a buckle or buckles as before described.
Thus it will be understood that by drawing on the outer end of the strap after it
has passed through its buckle the garment can be adjusted to fit the waist of any
ordinary sized person.

page_text: By the above contrivances but few different sizes of the garments need be made
or kept in stock in order to fit the waists of most persons, and a very considerable
economy may be effected by reducing the quantity of stock required to be kept in
ready made clothes stores.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said Henry Edward Newton in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 29th
November 1876.
HENRY EDWARD NEWTON, of the Office for Patents, 66, Chancery Lane, in the
County of Middlesex, Civil Engineer. "IMPROVEMENTS IN PANTALOONS AND OTHER
GARMENTS." A communication from abroad by George R. Eager, of Boston, in the
State of Massachusetts, United States of America.
This Invention relates to "improvements in the mode of making garments, such
as pantaloons, overalls or overhauls, drawers, blouses or overshirts, by means of
which the same garment can be made to fit persons having different sized waists,
or garments having different sized waists can be made to fit the same person.
The first part of the Invention consists in combining one or more straps and
buckles and a hollow waistband with the garment that is being made.
The second part of the Invention consists in combining a reeving loop or loops
with the strap or straps and hollow waistband of a garment whereby the process
of adjustment is much facilitated.
The same letters of reference indicate the same parts in all the Figures of the
accompanying Drawing, in which Fig. 1 represents a horizontal section taken through
the waistband of a garment, say a pair of pantaloons or blouse, to which the first
part of the Invention has been applied.
In this Drawing a, a, represent the outer and inner sides of the waistband, and
ba strap carrying at one end a buckle c, through which the other end of the
strap bis passed after having passed entirely round the garment through the
hollow waistband and out at opening u. d represents the front and e the rear
of the garment.
.
The end of strap b which carries the buckle c and protrudes from opening u
may or may not be fastened to the waistband at the point at which it enters the
hollow. It is evident that by drawing on the other end after it has been passed
through the buckle C the garment can be adjusted to the waist of ordinary sized
persons. For very large or small persons different but still adjustable sizes may
be kept. By such a contrivance but few different sizes need be made in order to
fit the waists of most persons.
Fig. 2 represents a side elevation of a pair of overalls or overhauls slightly
modified from those shewn in Fig. 1, Fig. 3 being a cross section of the same
taken through the waistband. This modification differs from the first only in
that the hollow waistband a and its contained strap bis confined to the rear half e
of the garment. In this case the inner end of strap bis sewed fast at to the inner
end of the hollow part of the waistband.
Fig. 4 represents a similar view of a modification of the plan shown in Fig. 3.
The waistband a instead of being made hollow all round is only made hollow
throughout the rear portion e of the garment. Through this hollow part a strap b
is passed, leaving both its ends projecting on the outside through openings and u²
one on each side. In this plan the strap may or may not be fastened to the waist-
band, in the Drawing it is represented as being fastened at f, f. This plan
necessitates the use of two buckles c, c', one on each side, and which are suitably
secured to the front portion of the waistband. By this method the adjustment
is effected at the sides, either of which may be separately adjusted, or both may
be adjusted togetlier.

page_text: Fig. 5 represents a similar view of another modification. In this plan the waist-
band is made hollow all round, but opens at the middle of the back e through
openings u and u² on the outerside of the waistband, a portion of the latter being
cut away for this purpose to give passage to the ends of the straps, in this casc
two in number. The strap 6 passes into its half a of the hollow waistband and is
fastened at its inner end to the front end of the waistband; strap b¹ passes into
its half a of the waistband and is fastened like the other to the other front end
of the waistband. The loose and projecting ends of these straps b, b', are respec-
tively passed through buckles c, c', which are suitably arranged for the purpose
at the back of the garment, and are sewed fast to the inner side of the waistband
at the point cut for the passage of the straps. By this plan the adjustment is
effected at the back, either side being capable of separate adjustment, or both may
be adjusted together as in plan shown in Fig. 4.
Fig. 6 also represents a similar section of another modification of the first part
of the Invention. By this plan the rear portion only of the waistband a is made
hollow, it terminating in openings u, u', for the passage of the adjusting straps one
on each side. For this plan two straps b, b1, are necessary, each of which is made
in two parts joined together. One of these parts, the inner end, consists of cord m,
and the other the outer end of cloth. The inner or cord end of each I prefer to
bifurcate or divide lengthwise so as to attach one division to the inside of the
inner, and the other to the inside of the outer side of the hollow waistband respec-
tively in order to leave a clear space between, through which to run the cloth end
of the other strap out of its opening u or u¹, formed for the purpose on the sides
of the waistband. Making the inner end of each strap b, 61, of cord allows the
two to cross each other readily in the middle without preventing them from running
freely and smoothly as the garment is adjusted. Immediately adjoining cach
of the openings and u just referred to as being made in the sides of the waist-
band and through which the straps are protruded, is secured a buckle, one c for
strap b, and another c¹ for strap b. By means of these straps and buckles the
garment is adjusted.
It is evident that the same effect can be produced by making straps b, b³, entirely
of cloth. This plan is represented in Fig. 7. In this case the inner end of strap b
is fastened to the outer half, and the inner end of strap b' to the inner half of
hollow waistband a, no change being required in the arrangement of their respective
buckles c, c¹.
It will also be apparent that the hollow waistband and straps b, b¹, may be
continued entirely around to the front part of the garment if desired, adjustment
being then eflected in front by buckles c, c', being transferred to that point also.
In Fig. 7 the waistband in front is represented as being sewed together at n
so as to remain closed at that point, while in Fig. 6 it is represented as being
capable of being unbuttoned in front, as shewn at n of that Figure.
Fig. 8 represents a horizontal section through the waistband of a garment to
which a further modification of the Invention has been applied.
In this plan the waistband a is made hollow all around, but is provided with
wo sets of double openings u, u, and u, u¹, one set on either side for the passage
of four straps b, b₁, b, b, with which it is provided.
Each of these openings may be protected by a shield made of leather or other
tout and suitable material to prevent tearing or ravelling. This facing of open-
ngs u, u¹, is deemed advisable in each of the plans referred to or to be hereafter
eferred to, as it prevents much tear and wear on the garment. Each of the front
traps b, b, is secured at its inner end to one end of the ends of the waistband in
ront, as shown at ƒ, ƒ.
The two rear straps band b³ are each secured to the waistband at the rear, or
single strap sewed to the band in the middle, as shewn at f², may be used, or the
trap inay be left unsewed.
To the inner half of the waistband between the openings u, u, and u, u, nre
urel two pair of buckles, that is to say, one pair or two buckles c, c¹, for the

page_text: straps band b¹, and the other pair c" and c³ for straps and b³. By these straps and
buckles the garment may be adjusted with great nicety on either side, whether in
front or rear, as either quarter can be independently adjusted. Once adjusted but
one strap need be loosened on removing the garment.
Fig. 9 represents a horizontal section through the waistband of a garment to
which another modification of the first part of the Invention has been applied.
This plan differs from the plan shewn in Figures 6 and 7, in that the ends of
straps and b are prolonged so as to meet and buckle in front. Strap b for
this purpose being provided with a buckle through which the free end of strap 1
is passed and fastened in front of the waist. It also has the buckles c and e¹
arranged at the two sides, and the inner ends of the straps themselves fastened as in
Figures 6 and 7. The buckles c, c', serve to give a general but loose fit of the
garment to the wearer, whilst buckle c in front gives the final fit and also serves
as a support to the buttons in front, it being only unbuckled when the garment is
to be taken off.
Fig. 10 represents a horizontal section taken through the waistband of a garment,
to which both the first and second parts of the Invention have been applied. In
this plan the rear half only of the waistband in represented as being made hollow,
the openings u and u¹ for the passage of the straps being arranged at the sides, but
it may be extended as much further around as may be desired even to having the
two openings made in the front of the garment and yet operato very satisfactorily.
At or about the middle of the back within the hollow waistband are arranged
and secured to the waistband two blank buckles or metal loops v, o', each of which
is constructed substantially as the one shewn in Fig. 15. Or instead of two like
the one in Fig. 15, one double loop or blank constructed substantially like that
shown in Fig. 16 may be substituted.
Within the hollow waistband thus provided with the blank buckles or metal
loops o, o, are arranged the two straps b, b', one on each side. One end of each
of the straps b, b¹, is stitched fast to the back or inner half of the waistband a, at or
near their respective openings u and u¹, the other or free end of each is then run
up the inside of the waistband and through their respective loops o, o¹, and thence
back and out at openings u and ¹, that is to say, strap b through loop o and out
at opening u, and strap through loop o¹ and out at opening w, and thence
through their respective adjusting buckles c and c', which for this purpose are
suitably arranged and secured to the front parts of the waistband. This mode of
running the straps through the loops o, o¹, renders the adjustment simple and ensy,
and the adjustment is further facilitated by the addition of friction rolls & to the
loops, see Figures 15 and 16.
Fig. 11 is a similar view to that of Fig. 10, and differs only from the latter, in
that the adjusting buckles c, c', and openings and at in the hollow waist band of
are arranged together at the rear just where the loops or blank buckles o, o', are
arranged in Figure 10, while the latter, ie. the loops o, o, are arranged at or about
the position occupied by the openings u and u³, Fig. 10, The operation is the same
in each case.
In Fig 11 the strap b, buckle c, and inner half of the waistband are all sewed
together, as are strap b', buckle c', and the inner half of the waistband which gives a
firm and substantial anchorage to the adjusting buckles.
The two straps b, b', in Figure 11, may either be made separately from each other
and independently secured to the waistband, or they may be made in one piece and
stitched to the waistband in the middle, as shown in the Drawing.
Fig. 12 represents a similar view of a modification of Fig. 11, and differs only
from the latter, in that the waistband a is not continuous all the way round, it
being divided in two at the rear, in other respects the two are the same only
a single strap is used, its two ends b, b1, passing into their respective halves of
the hollow waistband, thence around their loops and o¹ano back again and out
of their openings and w, and thence through their respective adjusting buckles c, c¹,
which instead of being secured as in Fig. 11 to the strap and waistband, in this

page_text: casc are simply secured to the strap at its middle, and which may thus be readily
removed for repairs or renewal.
As in Fig. 11 the waistband, shown in Fig. 12 may either be made wholly or
only partially hollow. This mode of combining the strap with the band enables the
garment to be made open behind on the plan of a gusset, so as to fit larger and
Sinaller persons than by any of the other modes unless by the consumption of more
material in the latter.
Fig. 13 is a similar section of another modification of Fig. 10, and differs from it
in providing the interior or hollow of the waistband, and which in this instance is
hollow all around, with four reeving loops or blank buckles o, o, and o¹, o¹, through
which two adjusting straps b and are to be reeved.
Each strap for this purpose is provided with a loop in front and another at rear,
so that in drawing on either of the straps the sides on which the strap thus drawn
is arranged will be simultaneously drawn and adjusted as well in front as in rear,
thereby enabling the garment to be uniformly adjusted all around by drawing on
both simultaneously or separately.
In this plan the waistband is provided with two openings u and u¹, one on each
side through which the unattached ends of their respective straps project, that is
to say, strap b through opening t, and strap b¹ through opening u¹.
In effect the hollow waistband in this plan is divided at the middle of the back
into two halves by arranging and securing therein, either the double loop shown in
Fig. 16, or two of the single loops shewn in Fig. 15. These loops are shown at o, o²,
in the rear e of the garment.
At each end of the front of the waistband is arranged and secured a corre-
sponding loop oor o¹ (style Fig. 15). Through the two loops o, o¹, the one in
front and the other in rear, is reeved the strap b, its inner end being first secured to
the rear or inner side of the waistband at or near opening u in its front side, and
through which its other end protrudes. In reeving strap 6 it is first passed through
loop o in front and thence brought back to opening u, and thence into the other
end of the hollow band on that side, whence it is carried back and reeved through
the other loop o in the rear and again brought back and out through opening u as
before stated, and where it is made to pass through adjusting buckle c, which for
that purpose is made fast to the front part of the waistband on that side. In this
condition strap b is ready to adjust that side of the garment. The other strap bl
is reeved in the same manner through the loops o, o¹, in the front and rear of its side
of the hollow waistband and through adjusting buckle c¹.
In the Drawing the attached ends of the straps b, b₁, are represented as being
secured to the inner half of the waistband, but they may just as well be attached
to the outer half or side, in which case the free end of the straps should be recved
through the front loops from the side opposite to that shewn in the Drawing, no
other change being necessary.
The modification shewn in Figure 14 differs only from that shewn in Fig. 13, in
that the buckle c, c', of that Figure which are fastened to the opposite sides of the
waistband are dispensed with, and a single buckle c fastened to the end of one of
the straps, say strap b, substituted therefor. Through this buckle c the free end of
the other strap b¹ is then passed.
The adjustment of the garment is effected by pulling on strap b¹, and this adjust-
ment can be enforced until buckle c and strap b have been dragged from their
opening u round to opening ul of strap b₁ but no farther, both sides being thereby
simultaneously adjusted. Or the buckles c and c', of Fig. 13, may still be left on,
and the buckle c, of Fig. 14, still applied to either of the straps. In which case
the general adjustment of the garment would be effected by buckles c and c¹ of
Fig. 13, and the final adjustment perfected by buckle c, of Fig. 14, as in the similar
case shown in Fig. 9, but which is unprovided with the reeving loops a, o, o¹, o¹.
Having now set forth the nature of this Invention of "Improvements in
Pantaloons and other Garments," as communicated to me by my foreign corre-
spondent, and having explained the manner of carrying the same into effect, I wish
it to be understood that under the above in part recited Letters Patent I claim-

page_text: Firstly. A garment provided with a hollow waistband a combined with a strap b
or straps and buckle c or buckles arranged in the manner and for the purposes
substantially as set forth.
Secondly. A garment provided with a hollow waistband a combined with a
strap or straps, buckle c or buckles, and with a reeving loop o or loops arranged in
the manner and for the purposes substantially as set forth.
In witness whereof, I, the said Henry Edward Newton, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, the Twenty-ninth day of November, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and seventy-six.