IMPROVED MACHINERY FOR FORMING BUTTON-HOLES, AND WORKING THE BUTTON HOLE STITCH
Year: 1879

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to George Browning, of Glasgow, North Britain, Tool Maker,
for the Invention of "IMPROVED MACHINERY FOR FORMING BUTTON-HOLES,
AND WORKING THE BUTTON HOLE STITCH."
Sealed the 23rd April 1880, and dated the 20th November 1879.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said George Browning at the Office
of the Commissioners of Patents on the 20th November 1879.
GEORGE BROWNING, of Glasgow, North Britain, Tool Maker. " IMPROVED
MACHINERY FOR FORMING BUTTON HOLES, AND WORKING THE BUTTON-HOLE
STITCH."
This Invention relates mainly to that class of sewing machinery by which button
holes are formed, the object being to simplify the construction and increase the
efficiency of the machine.
The fabric to be operated upon is held in a clamp, which is constructed in
substantially the same manner as that described in the Specification of a Patent
granted to me, and bearing date the 11th day of May, 1867, No. 1399, that is to
say, the gripping surfaces of the clamp are two pairs of roughened jaws, between
which the fabric when inserted is gripped firmly.
The space between these two pairs of jaws permits of a cutter coming into
contact with the fabric to slit the same to the length of a button hole. When the
fabric is thus slit the two pairs of jaws are moved slightly apart to open out a space
in the fabric for the free passage of the vertical needle, which works the button
hole stitch along the opposite sides of the slit, and around one end thereof.
In order to ensure a clean cut for the button hole I use a block or anvil to sustain
the fabric against the action of the descending cutter.
This block or anvil is carried by a perpendicular sliding rod working in a
suitable slide formed in a horizontal frame, which is bolted to cast iron standards
fitted with a treadle shaft and fly wheel for giving motion to the sewing machine.
In this horizontal frame are bearings which carry a rock shaft, on which is a
cam that raises the free end of an arm hinged to the horizontal frame at a right
angle with the rock shaft.
This arm carries on its upper surface an adjustable incline, on which rests the
lower end of the perpendicular sliding rod before mentioned.

page_text: The rock shaft is fitted with handles, by raising which the cam thereon will
through the arm lift the perpendicular sliding rod sufficiently high to bring the
block or anvil upwards through slots in the feed wheel and bed plate, and into
contact with the underside of the fabric when it is held in the clamp.
Also keyed to the rock shaft is a hooked finger which takes into a link pendant
from a rocking arm, which carries the cutter.
This rocking arm is maintained in a raised position by a coiled spring or its
equivalent, but when the block or anvil rises the hooked finger of the rock shaft
will draw down the cutter into contact with the fabric, and cause it to make a slit
therein for the formation of a button hole.
By returning the rock shaft to its normal position the drag on the cutter arm
will cease, and the coiled spring will then raise the cutter clear of the fabric, at the
same time the rock shaft cam will permit the block or anvil to descend below the
level of the feed wheel, which is thus free to revolve when required.
The descent of the block or anvil is ensured by means of a coiled spring secured
to the horizontal frame, and acting upon a stud projecting from the perpendicular
sliding rod before mentioned.
The next operation after opening the slit made in the fabric, as before mentioned
(which opening is effected in the usual manner) is to cover the raw edges of the
button hole with what is known as the button hole stitch.
This is effected by two instruments, namely, a vertical needle and a looper,
assisted by a pair of loop openers or spreaders which come into action alternately,
the clamp which carries the fabric receiving meanwhile the requisite motion for
traversing the work under the needle.
The needle, it will be understood, strikes alternately into the fabric, and into
the slit or opening, in order to lay its stitch on the face of the fabric, and for
this purpose it receives a lateral reciprocating motion. To permit of this while
using a needle bar which carries a cain plate for imparting to it the requisite
vertical motion I secure to the needle bar a bracket piece, this bracket piece
embraces the cam plate which slides freely therein, the cam plate being held in
contact and kept parallel with the cam wheel by means of slides formed in and
secured to the bracket arm of the machine.
I thus ensure that the cam plate shall remain under the action of its crank pin
whatever changes of lateral position the needle bar may receive.
This needle bar works in a guide box which is hinged vertically to the bracket
arm of the machine, and is held in contact with the end face thereof by means of a
spring.
When the needle is required to be shifted laterally from the position for piercing
the fabric to the position for striking through the slit, this is effected by a cam on
a vertical cam shaft, which bearing against a bowle on a short rock lever hinged to
the upper surface of the cam shaft bearing within the bracket arm, and forming
part thereof, will impart an endway motion to a horizontal rod that bears against
an adjustable stud projecting from the inner side of the guide box.
Thus by the action of the cam the guide box will be thrust outwards from the
bracket arm to which it is hinged, and give the needle bar the requisite lateral
motion.
The vertical joint pin of the guide box also forms the fulcrum of a bell crank,
one arm of which carries a bowle bearing against the cam on a horizontal cam-shaft,
the other arm nipping the needle thread between itself and an adjustable stud
projecting from the face of the bracket arm through the guide box.
I thus ensure the holding of the needle thread against the action of the take up
spring, so as to permit the needle to form a loop for the looper to enter.
This looper I cause to follow the lateral movements of the needle, in order to
lock the needle thread with the looper thread, and form the "purl" on the edge
of the button hole. This looper consists of two pointed fingers which stand up
from a vertical stem, and are set point to point with a short space between them.
These fingers are of different lengths, and the longer one is pierced so as to

page_text: carry the locking thread; the stem connecting these fingers forms a horizontal bar
below the level of the fingers, and the side thereof is in the same vertical plane as
the finger joints, and thus constitutes a guard for the needle when down below the
work.
In line with the space between the looper fingers the guard will receive the
needle on its face, and hold it out clear of the looper points, so that as either point
advances to take up the loop of the needle thread the possibility of either point
striking the needle will be avoided.
The vertical stem of the looper terminates in a horizontal bar, which is hinged
to a bracket projecting from a sliding bar that operates the looper. This sliding
bar carries at its forward end a second bracket, which is slotted to permit of the
passage of a screw for locking the looper to the sliding bar.
This arrangement allows of the swinging of the looper on its hinge to bring it
into a good position for threading up, and it also facilitates the removal of the loop
openers or spreaders hereafter described.
The looper receives a reciprocating motion through the sliding bar from a cam on
the vertical cam shaft before mentioned, in the groove of this cam works a bowle
carried by the sliding bar, which is forked at its end to slide on and be guided by
the vertical cam shaft.
The looper, besides receiving an endway motion, is at the same time moved
laterally, that is, towards and from the plane in which the needle works, in
order that as the needle descends the possibility of its striking the looper will be
avoided.
This lateral motion of the looper is produced by means of a rocking lever, one
end of which carries a bowle working in a second cam groove on the vertical cam
shaft before mentioned; the other end carries a jointed projection, which embraces,
and in which the sliding bar of the looper slides.
This rocking lever also carries a projecting finger, which actuates in one direction
a second and shorter rocking lever by depressing one end thereof; the other and
longer end terminates opposite to and on a level with the looper guard before
mentioned, and carries a pad for a purpose now to be described.
It will be understood that the needle descends between the looper and the pad,
and that when the looper advances laterally towards the plane in which the needle
works that the pad also has a lateral movement towards the same plane, being
driven in that direction by a coiled spring, so as to press the needle against the
looper guard.
I thus ensure the needle being close to the looper points when they advance to
enter the loop of the needle thread; the pad now presses the needle thread into
the needle groove on the one side, and thus materially assists the loop to form on
the other or looper side of the needle for the looper points to enter.
I shall next describe the construction of the loop openers or spreaders.
Projecting from the underside of the fixed bed plate which carries the needle
throat or button are two studs, each of which forms the axis for a pendant rocking
tube.
These tubes each carry at their upper ends an arm suitably shaped at its
extremity to catch and open or expand the loops as advised.
These arms or loop openers underlie one the other, and are free to work
alternately in a lateral direction towards and beyond the plane in which the needle
works.
The lower ends of the rocking tubes are rounded into a pointed shape, on which
presses a spring, and which serves to retain the tubes in position. The tubes at
their lower ends also carry at a right angle to the loop opener arms, two shorter
arms, which when in their normal position are nearly parallel with each other, and
their ends severally bear against an adjustable stop plate attached to the bed plate
of the machine, for the purpose of limiting the axial motion of the tubes. A coiled
spring, the ends of which act upon the ends of the two shorter arms, serves to
return the loop openers to their normal position.

page_text: To impart motion to the loop openers I use a bar which lies at right angles to
and beyond the ends of the two short arms before mentioned. This bar carries
adjustable tappet projections which take against the short arms of the tubes. This
tappet bar at its rear end expands into a fork which slides on each side of the
vertical cam shaft before mentioned, and it receives an endway reciprocating
motion from a third cam on the vertical cam shaft. In the groove of this cam
works a bowle carried by the forked end of the bar.
When the longer looper finger in its advance motion has taken up the loop of
the needle thread and carried its locking thread into a position to be caught by
the right hand loop opener, then the tappet bar acting upon this loop opener will
cause it to carry the locking thread beyond the plane of the needle, so as to present
an open loop to the descending needle which by this time has taken up a new
position to pierce the fabric.
The looper and pad have both at the same time received a lateral motion away
from the plane of the needle, and the position thus taken up they retain during the
descent of the needle. But when the needle has descended their lateral motion is
reversed and they both approach the plane of the needle.
On the return motion of the looper the shorter finger will take up the loop of
the needle thread and carry it into a position to be caught by the left hand loop-
opener which is actuated in its turn by the tappet bar and opens the needle thread
loop to receive the descending needle which has been now shifted back to the edge
of the button hole in order that it may form the "purl" thereon.
During this second descent of the needle the looper and pad have repeated their
lateral movements, as before described.
The needle having thus entered its own loop will have its next succeeding loop
again caught by the lower finger of the looper, as before explained, which finger
will again lay its locking thread in the needle thread loop, and thereby secure the
stitch.
It will be understood that as the motions of the looper and loop openers are
reversed, the threads respectively caught by them will be released, and the threads
will thereby be free to be drawn to tension to complete the stitches.
For giving the requisite feed motion to the fabric the plate carrying the clamp
in which the fabric is gripped is brought into connection with a rotating cam plate
sunk into a circular recess in the table of the machine. This cam plate receives its
motion from a reciprocating plate fitted with feed dogs and situated immediately
below it.
These dogs are notched into the perimeter of the reciprocating plate and grip an
annular rib formed on the underside of the cam plate.
Pendant from the feed dog plate is a pin which is embraced by a slotted bar
that receives an endway motion from its connection with a rocking lever, which
carries a bowle that works in the groove of a fourth cam on the vertical cam shaft
before mentioned, and by this motion of the rocking feed lever and slotted bar an
intermittent axial motion is given to the feed dog plate.
A motion in the opposite direction is given to this plate by a spring which
connects the pin elastically with the slotted bar, and thus on the return motion of
the slotted bar draws back the feed dog plate.
The cam plate above mentioned is formed with a heart shaped groove, into the
head of which projects a horizontal sliding stop which closes the groove at that part.
At the point or base of the heart the groove becomes shallower and suddenly
terminates in a circular hole or recess.
A pin carried by the clamping plate, and projecting beyond the underside thereof,
enters this heart shaped groove, and thus ensures the clamping plate moving with
the cam plate.
Interposed however between the clamping plate and the rotating heart shaped
plate is a fixed bed plate which carries a vertically slotted stud or needle throat
button, constituting the axis on which the clamping plate turns. This bed plate is
formed with a continuous slot or path for the pin of the clamping plate to project

page_text: through. This path may be described as a large and small semicircle connected
together by straight slots, and it serves to control the movement of the clamping
plate, and give it a straight as well as a swivelling motion, so as to enable it to
present the button hole properly to the needle.
The pin of the clamping plate is held down by a coiled spring, and it is provided
with a button to permit of its being lifted. When the cam plate is in its starting
position the clamping plate is looked thereto by reason of its pin having snapped
into the hole in the base of the heart shaped cam groove.
It is while the cam plate and clamp are in this position that the cutting of the
button hole is effected.
Preparatory to restarting the sewing machine the attendant lifts the locking
pin of the clamping plate and pushes it into the cam groove, he then sets the
sewing mechanism in action, and by means of the rotating cam plate, the clamp is
first moved forward to the needle to sew one side of the button hole. When it has
reached this position the sliding stop before mentioned will come in contact with
the locking pin, and carry round the clamp half a turn, to enable the needle to
work the rounded end of the button hole. At this point the locking pin will come
into contact with a straight portion of the path of the bed plate, and the further
rotation of the cam plate will cause the clamp to move outwards, or from the
needle, thereby enabling it work the opposite side of the button hole.
This being accomplished, the attendant stops the machine, removes the fabric,
and by means of a lever handle which takes against a projection pendant from the
feeding dog plate, he works that plate so as to rack round the cam plate until the
pin of the clamping plate enters upon the larger semicircle of the fixed bed plate.
Then by drawing round the clamping plate into its normal position it will, by
means of its pin, likewise bring the cam plate into its normal position, the pin
meanwhile having snapped into the cam plate.
The work having been shifted in the clamp a second button hole may be cut,
and the work will then proceed as before.
In sewing with a laterally reciprocating needle it is requisite to vary the rate of
supply of the thread to the needle to suit its two different positions. To provide
for this the needle bar is fitted with two eyes, which form a thread guide, and
which on the descent of the needle lay the thread over either one or two bent
wires, as the case may be, and thus draw off a larger or smaller portion of thread
from the bobbin. One of these wires stands up from the top of the hinged guide
box, and is bent over at right angles; a second and similar wire is carried by a
short horizontal arm, which is pivotted to the bracket arm of the machine.
An inclined slot is made in this pivotted arm to receive the first mentioned wire,
which when pressed inwards by the inward movement of the hinged guide box
thrusts out the pivotted arm to an extent that will clear the thread of the second
wire; the thread will, therefore, then be laid over one wire only. When, however,
the guide box is thrust outwards to enable the needle to take up a new position,
the pivotted arm with its wire will be pressed inwards, and the thread brought
down by the thread guide will be laid over both wires, and a correspondingly
increased amount of thread will be drawn off the bobbin.
In order to work the button hole stitch as an edging for garments I remove the
clamping plate, and fit over the bed plate above described a plate which will bring
the table up to the level of the vertically slotted stud before mentioned, so that
the garment to be operated upon may lie evenly upon the table.
To the bracket arm of the machine I fit a wheel feed, which will press down the
work upon the plate and feed it forward under the action of the needle.
This appliance may be described as a vertical bar, which terminates at its lower
end in a fork, within which is mounted a bell crank lever for carrying the feed
wheel.
A spring attached to the side of the vertical bar bears against the vertical

page_text: limb of the bell crank lever, and thereby presses down the feed wheel upon the
work.
Attached to the side of the feed wheel is a ratchet wheel, into which a spring
catch works. This spring catch is fitted so as to slide under a horizontal arm
projecting from the vertical bar before mentioned. On a lug projecting from the
side of this arm is pivotted a horizontal rock lever, to the inner end of which the
spring catch is attached. The outer end of this rock lever projects upwards within
the plane of motion of the hinged guide box which carries the needle bar. When,
therefore, the needle is moved outwards so as to pass the edge of the fabric on its
next descent, the spring catch will, through the movement of the rock lever, be
caused to actuate the feed wheel, and give the requisite feed motion to the fabric.
By this means an edging of button hole stitches may be worked upon a garment
(with or without the use of gimp) with great facility and expedition.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed
by the said George Browning in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 20th May
1880.
GEORGE BROWNING, of Glasgow, North Britain. "IMPROVED MACHINERY FOR
FORMING BUTTON HOLES, AND WORKING THE BUTTON HOLE STITCH."
This Invention relates mainly to that class of sewing machinery by which button
holes are formed, the object being to simplify the construction and increase the
efficiency of the machine.
The fabric to be operated upon is held in a clamp which is constructed in
substantially the same manner as that described in the Specification of a Patent
granted to me, and bearing date the Eleventh day of May, One thousand eight
hundred and sixty seven, No. 1399, that is to say, the gripping surfaces of the
clamp are two pairs of roughened jaws, between which the fabric when inserted is
gripped firmly.
The space between these two pairs of jaws permits of a cutter (coming into
When the
contact with the fabric to slit the same to the length of a button hole.
fabric is thus slit the two pairs of jaws are moved slightly apart to open out a space
in the fabric for the free passage of the vertical needle which works the button
hole stitch along the opposite sides of the slit, and around one end thereof.
In Sheet I. of the accompanying Drawings, Fig. 1 shews in side elevation partly
in section my improved button hole sewing machine, the mechanism for cutting the
hole in the work being applied thereto. The clamp, however, for holding the
work is removed.
Fig. 2 is a cross section of the same taken in the line of the slot, through which
the button hole cutter passes to act upon the work; and Fig. 3 is a plan view of
the mechanism, situate below the table top, to which the sewing machine is
connected.
This mechanism serves to raise the anvil which is to receive the pressure of the
cutter, and simultaneously to draw down the cutter and bring it into action.
Referring to Figures 1 and 2, A is a cast iron framing carrying the table top A¹.
In this framing is mounted the ordinary treadle arrangement for driving the sewing
machine.
An opening is cut in the table top to receive the bed B of the sewing machine,
which bed is cast with lips or flanges that rest on the table top, and it has also
lugs projecting from its back edge, into which enter hooks secured to the table
top A¹
By thus coupling the bed plate and table top together the machine is capable of
turning back, as upon hinges, to bring the mechanism situate below the bed plate
into view for the purpose of adjusting the parts and facilitating the threading up
of the looper.
Standing up from the bed plate is a hollow casting B¹ which constitutes the
bracket arm of the machine, and carries within it the shafts which transmit motion
to the various parts of the sewing mechanism.
Pivotted to the bed plate is a rocking arm C, which carries at its free end a
cutting blade c.
The radius of this arm is such that when drawn down it will overlie a slot cut
transversely through a steel plate B* which forms a portion of the face of the bed
plate B. This slot is made to permit of the rising of a block or anvil to meet
the descending cutter.
It is over this slot that the work is brought (by means of the clamp which carries
the work) to receive the cut for the button hole preparatory to the opening of that
cut and the application thereto of the purl edging by the sewing machine.
The block or anvil c¹ is carried by a perpendicular sliding stem working in a

page_text: slide cast with the framing A. In the framing are bearings which carry a rock
shaft C fitted with a cam C2 which underlies the stem of the anvil. C³ is an arm
hinged to the framing A at a right angle with the rock shaft.
This arm carries at its free end an adjustable incline or wedge shaped piece C,
which is interposed between the cam C and the stem of the anvil, it being held in
contact with the cam by means of a coiled spring.
The rock shaft is fitted with handles Co, by raising which the cam thereon will
through the arm C3 and adjustable wedge-shaped piece C4 lift the block or anvil c¹
into contact with the underside of the fabric when it is held in the clamp.
Also keyed to the rock shaft is a hooked finger C6, which takes into a link C
pendent from the cutter arm C.
This cutter arm is maintained in a raised position by a coiled spring C8 or its
equivalent. When, however, the block or anvil rises, the hooked finger of the rock
shaft will draw down the cutter into contact with the fabric, and cause it to make
a slit therein for the formation of a button hole.
By returning the rock shaft to its normal position the drag on the cutter arm
will cease, and the coiled spring will then raise the cutter clear of the fabric; at
the same time the rock shaft cam will permit the block or anvil to descend to its
normal position.
I will now proceed to describe the construction of the sewing machine proper,
by which the purl edging is given to the button hole, the same being formed by
means of a needle thread and a looper or locking thread, as in the above mentioned
Patent.
In Sheet II. of the Drawings, Fig. 4 is a plan view of the sewing machine; Fig. 5
is a side elevation of the same, the parts below the bed plate being omitted; and
Fig. 6 is a corresponding front or end view of the machine.
In these Figures the clamp or work holder, which forms no part of the present
Invention, is omitted, but its position on the bed plate is indicated by dotted lines
in Fig. 4.
The steel plate B, it will be seen, is fitted with a hollow boss B³, which con-
stitutes what is known as the throat-plate, and it serves also as a pivot on which
the clamp that carries the work is free to turn. Radiating from the centre of this
boss is the slot b, through which the anvil c¹ passes to reach the work carried by
the clamp. This slot is continued outwards until it meets with a curved slot b³
which is slightly excentric to the boss B³. At its opposite end this slot connects
with a straight slot 62 in line with the slot b. The two straight slots b, 62, are
connected together at their inner ends by a semi-circular slot b', which is concentric
with the hollow boss B³.
These slots b, b', 62, 63, form a continuous race for the spring bolt or guiding pin
of the clamp or work holder to travel in, and they thereby serve to guide the work
under the action of the vertical needle, while the clamp is being rotated by the
intermittent action of the feed wheel which underlies the plate B', and is operated
as will be hereafter more particularly explained.
The construction of the clamp for holding the work and presenting it first to the
cutter and afterwards to the needle being well known will need no detailed
description, and is only incidentally shown in the Drawings to explain the action
of the feed wheel.
The operation which succeeds this opening of the slit made in the fabric as before
mentioned (which opening is effected in the usual manner) is to cover the raw
edges of the button hole with what is known as the button hole stitch. This is
effected by two instruments, namely, a vertical needle and a looper assisted by a
pair of loop openers or spreaders which come into action alternately, the clamp
which carries the fabric receiving meanwhile the requisite motion for traversing the
work under the needle.
D, Figures 5 and 6, represents the vertical needle bar, and d, the needle attached
thereto in the ordinary way. This needle bar is shewn detached in three views at
Figures 7 to explain its connection with the cam plate D' through which it is driven.

page_text: The needle it will be understood strikes alternately into the fabric and into the
slit or opening in order to lay its stitch on the face of the fabric, and for this
purpose it receives a lateral reciprocating motion. To permit of this without
interfering with the ordinary reciprocating vertical motions of the needle bar,
I secure to the needle bar a bracket piece D2 which embraces the cam plate D¹, and
retains its hold thereof while the needle bar receives its lateral motion. The cam
plate D is held in contact and kept parallel with the crank plate D³ by means of
slides formed in and secured to the bracket arm B¹ of the machine.
I thus ensure that the cam plate shall remain under the action of its crank
pin or driver, whatever changes of lateral position the needle bar may receive.
The crank plate D³ forins the termination of the horizontal driving shaft D*
which has its bearings in the bracket arm B', and is fitted at its outer end with a
driving pulley D and a fly wheel D®.
The needle bar D works in a guide box D' which is hinged vertically to the
bracket arm B¹ of the machine. This guide box is held in contact with the end
face of the bracket arm by means of a spring d'.
When the needle is required to be shifted laterally from the position for piercing
the fabric to the position for striking through the slit, this is effected by a cam D8
on a vertical cam shaft E, which is mounted in bearings in the hollow bracket arm,
and extends down below the bed of the machine. This cam D8 (shewn best in the
sectional elevation and plan views Figures 15 and 16, Sheet V.), bears against a
bowle on a short rock lever D° hinged to the upper surface of the cam shaft bearing
within the bracket arm and forming part thereof. In contact with this lever lies a
horizontal sliding rod D° which is carried by guides under the bracket arm, and
extends forwards into the guide box D'. This rod D10 bears against an adjustable
stud d projecting from the inner side of the guide box. As therefore the largest
radius of the cam comes opposite the bowle of the lever D°, the guide box will
by the advance of the rod D10 be thrust outwards from the bracket arm to which
it is hinged, and give the needle bar the requisite lateral motion.
The vertical joint pin of the guide box also forms the fulcrum of a bell crank F,
one arm of which a bowle which bears against a cam F¹ on the driving shaft* D*.
The other arm of this lever F is fitted with a thread guide, and it serves to nip the
needle thread between itself and an adjustable stud f projecting from the face of
the bracket arm through the guide box, which latter is pierced to allow of the
pin passing through it. By this contrivance I ensure the holding of the needle
thread against the action of the usual take up spring, so as to permit the needle
to form a loop for the looper to enter.
In Sheet III. of the Drawings Fig. 8 is an inverted plan view of the button hole
sewing machine showing my improvements in the mechanism for feeding the work,
and for locking the stitches formed by the vertical needle thread; Fig. 9 is a
longitudinal section of the bed plate shewing the parts situate beneath it.
Fig. 10 is a plan view of the upper side of the bed plate with the grooved steel
plate B removed to exhibit the underlying feed wheel, and Fig. 11 is a cross
section of the machine taken in the line 1, 2, of Figures 8 and 10.
In Figures 8 and 9 G is the looper which plays the double part of carrying the
locking thread through the loop of the needle thread, and at the subsequent descent
of the needle through the loop of the looper thread of catching the loop of the
needle thread and holding it, while the needle in its next succeeding descent passes
through the loop of its own thread.
In order to effect these results I cause the looper to follow the lateral movements
of the needle, and I thereby form the purl on the edge of the button hole, as will
be more fully explained hereafter. This looper consists of a horizontal cranked bar
hinged to a sliding bar G' which embraces the vertical cam shaft E and is actuated
by a grooved cam G³ keyed to that shaft.
Fitted to the extremity of the looper G and parallel with its upper edge are two
pointed fingers g, g¹, set point to point with a short space between them. These
fingers are of different lengths, and the longer one g is pierced so as to carry the

page_text: locking thread which it draws from the bobbin g². The vertical face of the looper
bar nearest the needle and at the part where the fingers g, g', are mounted is in the
same vertical plane as the needle side of the fingers; it thus constitutes a guard for
the needle when down below the work. As the needle descends the looper will
stand aside clear of the needle by reason of a slight lateral motion, which it receives
for that purpose.
When brought up to the needle with the space between the
fingers in line with the needle, the guard will receive the needle on its face and
keep it clear of the looper points, so that as either point advances to take up the
loop of the needle thread, the possibility of either point striking the needle will
be avoided.
The sliding bar G₁ carries at its forward end a bracket, which is slotted for
the reception of a screw gå standing out from the side of the looper, which screw
carries a clamping nut g₁ for locking the looper to the sliding bar.
This arrangement allows of the swinging of the looper on its hinge to bring
it into a good position for threading up, and it also facilitates the removal of the
loop openers or spreaders hereafter described.
The looper receives a reciprocating motion through the sliding bar G¹ from the
cam G2, shewn detached and in plan view at Fig. 12, where G³ is the cam groove in
which works a bowle carried by the sliding bar.
The looper, besides receiving an endway motion, is at the same time moved
laterally as above stated, that is, towards and from the plane in which the needle
works, in order that as the needle descends the possibility of its striking the looper
will be avoided.
This lateral motion of the looper also facilitates the expansion of the loops for the
needle to pass through. It is produced by means of a rocking lever H pivotted to
the underside of the bed plate and carrying at its rear end a bowle working in a
cam groove H¹ on the upper face of the cam G2, Fig. 12. The forward end of the
lever H carries a screw h, which enters a longitudinal slot formed in the sliding
bar G. As, therefore, this lever H is rocked by its cam, it will impart a corre-
sponding lateral motion to the looper.
This rock lever H also carries a projecting finger h¹ which actuates in one direction
a bell crank lever H2 pivotted to the underside of the bed plate. The longer limb
of this lever H2 terminates opposite to and on a level with the looper guard, and
carries a pad h² for a purpose now to be described.
It will be understood that the needle descends between the looper and the pad,
and that when the looper advances laterally towards the plane in which the needle
works, that the pad also has a lateral movement towards the same plane, being
driven in that direction by a coiled spring h³ so as to press the needle against the
looper guard.
I thus ensure the needle being close to the looper points when they advance to
enter the loop of the needle thread. The pad now presses the needle thread into
the needle groove on the one side, and thus materially assists the loop to form on the
other or looper side of the needle for the looper points to enter.
I shall next describe the construction of the loop openers or spreaders.
Projecting from the underside of the fixed bed plate which carries the hollow boss
or button are two studs, each of which forms the axis for a pendent rocking tube I,
see Fig. 8. These tubes carry respectively at their upper ends a curved arm i, i*,
which arms are right and left handed, and are notched at their extremities to catch
and open or expand the loops as desired.
These arms or loop openers underlie one the other, and are free to work alternately
in a lateral direction towards and beyond the plane in which the needle works.
The lower ends of the rocking tubes are rounded into a pointed shape, on which
presses a shaped spring plate which serves to retain the tubes in position. The
tubes at their lower ends also carry at a right angle to the loop opener arms two
short arms 1', which, when in their normal position, are nearly parallel with each
other, and their ends severally bear against an adjustable stop plate I attached to
the bed plate of the machine for the purpose of limiting the axial motion of the

page_text: tubes. A coiled spring I³, the ends of which act upon the ends of the two arms I',
serves to return the loop openers to their normal position.
To impart motion to the loop openers I use a bar I' which lies at right angles to
and beyond the ends of the two short arms before mentioned. This bar carries
adjustable tappet projections *, **, which bear against the inner faces of the tube
arms I¹.
This tappet bar at its rear end expands into a fork which embraces the boss of
the cam G, and it receives an end way reciprocating motion from the cam groove I³
(see Fig. 8), in which works a bowle carried by the bar I. By means of this
reciprocating motion the bar is caused to act alternately on the loop openers i, i*,
and cause them to open out alternately the loops of the needle thread and of the
looper thread.
In Sheet IV. of the Drawings I have shewn a series of diagrams to illustrate the
action of the sewing instruments, as the work is fed under the action of the needle.
Figures 1 and 1a shew the needle d down at its lowest position, and the looper
finger g as having just entered the loop of the needle thread with the object of
laying the locking or looper thread within that loop, the two threads being attached
to the work. At this time the loop openers i, i*, are back and out of action.
Figures 2 and 2a shew the looper finger further advanced to the right, and the
needle as rising, it having left its loop upon the looper finger g the loop openers
being still quiescent.
When the looper finger g in its advance motion has taken up the loop of the
needle thread and carried its locking thread into a position to be caught by the
loop opener i, then the tappet bar acting upon this loop opener will cause it t
1 ry
the locking thread beyond the plane of the needle, so as to present an open to
the descending needle, as shewn in the diagrams, Figures 3 and 3a. Prior this
descent the needle has by its oscillation taken up a new position to pierce the
fabric.
The looper G and pad h² have both at the same time received a lateral motion
away from the plane of the needle, and the position thus taken up they retain
during the descent of the needle. But when the needle has descended their lateral
motion is reversed and they both approach the plane of the needle.
On the return motion of the looper the finger g' will take up the loop of the
needle thread, as shown in the diagrams, Figures 4, 4a, and carry it into the position
shewn in the diagrams, Figures 5, 5ª, where it is ready to be caught by the loop
opener which is actuated in its turn by the back motion of the tappet bar. The
loop opener i now opens the needle thread loop, as shewn in the diagrams,
Figures 6, 6, to receive the descending needle which has been now shifted back to
the edge of the button hole in order that it may form the purl thereon.
During this second descent of the needle the loop and pad have repeated their
lateral movements as before described.
The needle having thus entered its own loop will have its next succeeding loop
again caught by the finger g of the looper, as before explained, which finger will
again lay its locking thread in the needle thread loop and thereby secure the
stitch.
It will be understood that as the motions of the looper and loop openers are
reversed the threads respectively caught by them will be released, and the threads
will thereby be free to be drawn to tension in the usual way to complete the
stitches.
Referring now to Fig. 11, K is the clamp for holding the work and carrying it
round the needle, so as to present the opposite edges of the button-hole in succession
to the action of the needle.
This clamp is provided with a base plate K¹, which is slotted to slide over and fit
against the hollow boss or button B³ which serves as a pivot for it to turn upon.
For giving the requisite feed motion to the fabric the plate K¹ carrying the
clamp K is brought into connection with a rotating cam plate K' sunk into a
circular recess in the bed plate of the machine. This cam plate, which is shewn in

page_text: place in the plan view at Fig. 10, and detached and inverted at Fig. 13, receives
its motion from a reciprocating plate K³, fitted with feed dogs K, and situate
immediately below it.
These dogs are notched into the perimeter of the reciprocating plate K³, and grip
an annular rib formed on the under side of the cam plate K¹.
Pendent from the feed dog plate K³ is a pin K which is embraced by a slotted
bar that receives an endway motion from its connection with a rock lever K°
pivotted to the underside of the bed plate. The rear end of this lever carries a
bowle that works in the groove of a cam K7 keyed on the vertical cam shaft E.
By the motion of the feed lever K derived from the rotation of the cam K' an
intermittent axial motion is given to the feed dog plate K³, and thence transmitted
through the feed dogs to the cam plate K³.
A motion in the opposite direction is given to the plate K³ by a spring K³ which
connects the pin elastically with the slotted bar, and thus on the return motion of
the slotted bar draws back the feed dog plate.
The cam plate K³ is formed with a heart shaped groove k, into the head of which
projects a horizontal sliding stop k¹ which closes the groove at that part. At the
point or base of the heart the groove becomes shallower and suddenly terminates
in a circular recess or locking hole k².
A spring bolt or guide pin ³, carried by the clamping plate K¹, and projecting
beyond the underside thereof, enters this heart shaped groove through the endless
groove in the steel plate B2 and thus ensures the clamping plate moving with the
cam plate K³.
The plate B over which the clamp K works is furnished, as already described,
with grooves which through the guide pin serve to control the movement of the
clamping plate and give it a straight as well as a swivelling motion, so as to enable
it to present the button hole properly to the needle.
The pin of the clamping plate is held down by a coiled spring, and it is provided
with a button to permit of its being lifted. When the cam plate is in its starting
position, as shewn in the plan view, Fig. 4, Sheet II, the clamping plate is locked
thereto by reason of its pin having snapped into the locking hole in the point or
base of the heart shaped cam groove, as shewn at Fig. 11, Sheet III.
It is while the cam plate and clamp are in this position that the cutting of the
button hole is effected.
Preparatory to restarting the sewing machine the attendant lifts the locking
pin of the clamping plate and pushes it into the cam groove k, he then sets the
machine in action, and by means of the rotating cam plate K³ the clamp is first
moved forward to the needle to sew one side of the button hole, the pin ³ traversing
at that time along the groove b until it has reached the semicircular slot b¹.
When it has arrived at this position the sliding stop k will come in contact with
it and carry it round with the clamp half a turn to enable the needle to work the
rounded end of the button hole. When the locking pin has passed round to the
end of the groove 6¹ it will come into contact with the straight portion 61 of the
groove of the bed plate, and being thereby arrested it will offer an obstruction to
the further progress of the stop k¹, which being now free to slide end wise will slide
over the pink and pass beyond it. The further rotation of the cam plate will
cause the clamp to move outwards or from the needle thereby enabling it to work
the opposite side of the button hole.
This being accomplished the attendant stops the machine, removes the fabric, and
by means of a handle pendent from the feeding dog plate he works that plate so as
to rack round the cam plate until the pin of the clamping plate has passed into
the excentric portion 63 of the bed plate; then by drawing round the clamping
plate into its normal or starting position it will by means of its locking pin complete
the rotation of the cam plate and bring it to the position shewn at Fig. 4, the pink³
at the same time snapping into the locking hole of the cam plate.
Fig. 10, Sheet III, shews that the slide k¹ is retained in its position as a driver
for nearly the whole of the rotation of the cam plate, but that at the part where it

page_text: is required to leave the pin ³ a segmental recess is formed in the bed of the machine
to provide for the endway motion outwards of the slide; the contraction of this
recess acts as a cam to force back the slide into place. The work having been
shifted in the clamp a second button hole may be cut, and the work will then
proceed as before.
In sewing with a laterally reciprocating needle it is requisite to vary the rate of
supply of the thread to the needle to suit its two different positions. To provide
for this the needle bar is fitted with two eyes (see the detached views, Figures 7*)
which form a thread guide, and which on the descent of the needle lay the thread
over either one or two bent wires a², a³, as the case may be, and thus draw off a
larger or smaller portion of thread from the bobbin. The wire a stands up from
the top of the hinged guide box D' and is bent over at right angles. The wire a³
is carried by a short horizontal arm a' which is pivotted to the bracket arm of the
machine.
An inclined slot as is made in this pivotted arm to receive the wire a², which
when pressed inwards by the inward movement of the hinged guide box D7 thruɛts
out the pivotted arm to an extent that will clear the thread of the wire a³. The
thread will therefore then be laid over one wire only. When however the guide
box is thrust outwards to enable the needle to take up a new position the pivotted
arm at with its wire will be pressed inwards and the thread brought down by the
thread guide will be laid over both wires and a correspondingly increased amount
of thread will be drawn off the bobbin.
In order to work the button hole stitch as an edging for garments I remove the
clamping plate and fit over the bed plate B² a plate L which will bring the table
up to the level of the vertically slotted stud or button B³, so that the garment to
be operated upon may lie evenly upon the table.
To the bracket arm of the machine I fit a wheel feed which will press down the
work upon the plate and feed it forward under the action of the needle.
In Sheet V. of the Drawings, Fig. 14 shews in front view a portion of the sewing
machine with the improved top wheel feed applied thereto; Fig. 15 is a side
elevation, partly in section, of the same portion of the machine with the top feed
wheel attached; and Fig. 16 is a plan view, partly in section, of the like parts;
Fig. 17 is a back elevation and Fig. 18 a plan view of the wheel feed detached.
In these Figures, L¹ is a vertical bar forming part of a bracket frame attached
to the bracket arm B' of the machine. This bar terminates at its lower end in
a fork L³, within which is mounted a bell crank lever L³ for carrying the feed
wheel L*.
A spring L attached to the back of the bar L¹ bears against the vertical limb
of the bell crank lever L³ and thereby presses down the feed wheel upon the
work.
Attached to the side of the feed wheel is a ratchet wheel Le into which a spring
catch L' works. This spring catch is fitted so as to slide under a horizontal arm L³
projecting from the vertical bar L¹. On a lug projecting from the side of this arm
is pivotted a horizontal rock lever L³, to the inner end of which the spring catch is
attached. The outer end of this rock lever projects upwards within the plane of
motion of the hinged guide box D7 which carries the needle bar. When therefore
the needle is moved outwards so as to pass the edge of the fabric on its next descent
the spring catch will through the movement of the rock lever L³ be caused to
actuate the feed wheel and give the requisite feed motion to the fabric. By this
means an edging of button hole stitches may be worked upon a garment (with or
without the use of gimp) with great facility and expedition, the traverse of the
work taking place only after each outward movement of the needle bar.
L10 is a lever for raising the feed wheel from the work, its inner end being
wedge-shaped and standing between the tail of the bell crank lever L³ and the
bar L
Having now set forth the nature of the Invention of "Improved Machinery for
Forming Button Holes and Working the Button Hole Stitch," and explained the

page_text: manner of carrying the same into effect, I wish it to be understood that under the
above in part recited Letters Patent I claim,-
First. The arrangement of mechanism described with reference to Sheet I. of the
Drawings whereby the cutter and block or anvil are caused to approach each other
simultaneously, as and for the purpose above set forth.
Secondly. The arrangement of slot 63 in the plate B and locking hole k in the
cam plate K for receiving the spring bolt or guide pin k³ of the clamp plate, for
the purpose above set forth.
Thirdly. The bell crank F actuated, as above described, in combination with the
adjustable stud f on the bracket arm B¹ for nipping the needle thread, as above
explained.
Fourthly. The means above described for maintaining the connection of the
laterally moving needle bar with its actuating cam plate.
Fifthly. Constructing the looper as described, whereby it is caused to act as a
guard to the vertical needle and protect it from being struck by the looper points.
Sixthly. Attaching the looper to the slide bar G', in the manner and for the
purpose above described.
Seventhly. Imparting a lateral motion to the looper through the rocking lever H,
for the purpose above set forth.
Eighthly. The rock lever H2 with its pad h² in combination with the vertical
needle, for the purpose above set forth.
Ninthly. The loop openers, constructed and operated as above described.
Tenthly. In a button hole sewing machine, the means above described for trans-
mitting motion to the clamp plate (through the ordinary guide pin ³) and thereby
traversing the work under the action of the vertical needle.
Eleventhly. The arrangement above described with reference to Figures 7 for
regulating the supply of thread to the vertical needle.
Lastly. I claim the application to button hole sewing machines of the top feed
described with reference to Sheet V. of the Drawings, for the purpose above set
forth.
In witness whereof, I, the said George Browning, have hereunto set my hand
and seal, the Seventeenth day of May, in the year of our Lord One thousand
night hundred and sighter