IMPROVE- MENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES
Year: 1882

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Thomas Laycock of Northampton in the county of
Northampton, Boot and Shoe Manufacturer for an Invention of IMPROVE-
MENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES
"
"
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Thomas Laycock at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 29th December 1882.
THOMAS LAYCOCK, of Northampton, in the county of Northampton, Boot and
Shoe Manufacturer "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES
"
This invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of boots and shoes,
the improvements having chiefly for object to provide a watertight boot or shoe
either "lace up" or "button," and which shall be more comfortable to the wearer
than the ordinary watertight boot or shoe, the improvements also relate to an
improved method of lasting boots and shoes.
In carrying out my improvements in the manufacture of a watertight lace up
boot I cut or form the quarters so that the fastening edges thereof meet or lap at
the side of the instep and extend to the top of the boot or shoe at the side.
Where the quarters are cut or formed so that the fastening edges meet I provide
a gore forming a tongue which is sewn to the said quarters at or near the fastening
edges thereof or the said gore or tongue may consist of an extension of the lining
of the boot; when the edges of the quarters lap the gore or tongue is of less width;
the said gore or tongue when the boot is fastened folds against the inside of the
quarter and when the boot is unfastened opens sufficiently to allow the foot to pass
in or out.
For fastening the boot I employ eyelets or eyelets and hooks as in ordinary
lace up" boots, or buckles, buttons or the like may be employed; where however
the quarters lap I employ an extra row of eyelets at the bottom in the under
quarter so as to allow of the boot being tightened by the lace, but where the lap is
not great this extra row of eyelets may be dispensed with.
Where the boot is not required to be made watertight the hereinbefore described

page_text: gore or tongue may be dispensed with or may consist of an extension of the lining
of the boot or of one of the quarters and not be sewn to the other quarter.
For high legged or gaiter boots the gaiter or leglet forms a continuation of the
quarters; or the leglet may be applied to an ordinary front lace boot.
My improved method of lasting boots and shoes has for object to dispense with
the necessity of clinching the ends of the tacks or tingles or the like and this
I effect by driving the tacks, tingles or the like obliquely through the upper into
the insole whereby the ends of the tacks, tingles or the like do not project through
the insole as at present.
Or, when the boot is lasted in the ordinary manner, I sew, rivet, peg or screw
the middle sole, the upper, and a first insole together; the second insole (or sock)
is then inserted and sewn, pegged, rivetted or screwed, from the middle sole or
through from the outer sole.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said Thomas Laycock in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 29th June
1883.
"
THOMAS LAYCOCK of Northampton in the county of Northampton, Boot and
Shoe Manufacturer "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES
This invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of boots and shoes,
the improvements having chiefly for object to provide a water tight boot or shoe
either "lace up or "button" and which shall be more comfortable to the wearer
than the ordinary watertight boot or shoe; the improvements also relate to an
improved method of lasting boots and shoes.
"
In carrying out my improvements in the manufacture of a watertight lace up
boot I cut or form the quarters so that the fastening edges thereof meet or lap at
the side of the instep and extend to the top of the boot or shoe at the side.
Where the quarters are cut or formed so that the fastening edges meet I provide
a gore forming a tongue which is sewn to the said quarters at or near the fastening
edges thereof or the said gore or tongue may consist of an extension of the lining
of the boot; when the edges of the quarters lap the gore or tongue is of less
width; the said gore or tongue when the boot is fastened folds against the inside
of the quarter and when the boot is unfastened opens sufficiently to allow the foot
to pass in or out.
For fastening the boot I employ eyelets or eyelets and hooks as in ordinary
"lace up" boots or instead of employing hooks, buckles, buttons or the like may
be employed and the lace is preferably crossed on the outside only, I sometimes
employ an extra row of eyelets at the bottom in the under quarter so as to allow of
the boot being tightened by the lace but where the lap is not great this extra row
of eyelets may be dispensed with.
Where the boot is not required to be made watertight the hereinbefore described
gore or tongue may be dispensed with or may consist of an extension of the lining
of the boot or of one of the quarters and not be sewn to the other quarter.
For high legged or gaiter boots the gaiter or leglet forms a continuation of the
quarters, or the leglet may be applied to an ordinary front lace boot.
My improved method of lasting boots and shoes has for one of its objects to
dispense with the necessity of clinching the ends of the tacks or tingles or the like
and this I effect by driving the tacks, tingles or the like obliquely through the
upper into the insole whereby the ends of the tacks, tingles or the like do not
project through the insole as at present.
Or, when the boot is lasted in the ordinary manner I sew, rivet, peg or screw
the middle sole, the upper, and a first insole together; the second insole is then
inserted and sewn, pegged, rivetted or screwed, from the middle sole or through
from the outer sole.
In order to enable my invention to be fully understood I will describe the same
by reference to the accompanying drawing in which figure 1, is a side elevation of a
watertight lace up boot or shoe manufactured according to one modification of my
invention and having a gore or tongue sewn to the edges of both quarters and
figure 2, is a plan of the top of the boot, the boot being shewn fastened in both
figures; figures 3, and 4, are views shewing the boot unfastened in the position to
receive the foot of the wearer; figures 5 and 6 elevation and plan shewing a boot
in which the tongue is only sewn to one of the quarters the figures shewing the
boot fastened; figures 7 and 8 similar views shewing the boot unfastened; figure 9
is a cross section of the upper and insole of a boot or shoe illustrating my improved

page_text: method of lasting boots and shoes whereby the necessity of clinching the ends of
the tacks or tingles or the like is dispensed with; figures 10 and 11, are plans of
the upper and underside respectively of the sole of a double sewn hoot or shoe
manufactured according to another modification of my invention; figure 12, is a
cross section of the said boot or shoe; figures 13, 14 and 15 are similar views to
those shewn in figures 10, 11 and 12, but shewing a sewn and screwed boot or
shoe; figure 16, is a cross section of a boot or shoe shewing a modification of the
method of manufacturing boots and shoes shown in figures 10, 11 and 12; figure 17.
is a plan of the first thickness of the insole and figure 18 a cross section of a boot
illustrating another modification of the method of lasting boots and shoes;
figures 19, and 20, are an underside view and a cross section respectively shewing
a method of manufacturing boots and shoes with the centre of the middle sole cut
out together with the surplus upper and the tacks in order to render them lighter
and prevent squeaking. Similar letters in all the figures represent similar or
corresponding parts.
I will first describe my improvements in the manufacture of a watertight lace up
boot or shoe as shewn in figures 1, 2, 3 and 4; a, and b, are the front and back
quarters respectively, formed as shewn so that their fastening edges c, and d, lap at
the side of the instep and extend to the top of the boot at the side; e, is the gore
or tongue sewn to the quarters a, and b, at or near their fastening edges c, and d,
(or the gore or tongue e, may consist of an extension of the lining of the boot);
the gore or tongue e, when the boot is fastened as shewn in figures 1, and 2, folds
against the inside of the front quarter a, and when the boot is unfastened as shewn
in figures 3 and 4 it opens sufficiently to allow the foot of the wearer to pass in or
out, are the eyelets, f¹, the hooks and g, the lace for fastening the boot as in
ordinary "lace up boots.
"
The boot shewn in figures 5, 6, 7, and 8, is similar to that hereinbefore described
and shewn in figures 1, 2, 3 and 4 except that the gore or tongue e, is narrower
and is sewn to only one of the quarters; the tongue e, may however consist of an
extension of the lining of the boot or may be dispensed with; this arrangement is
suitable where the boot or shoe is not required to be watertight.
In figure 9, which shews one method of lasting boots and shoes according to my
invention, h, h, are the tacks or tingles or the like which are driven as shewn
obliquely through the upper l, into the insole j, whereby the ends of the tacks or
tingles do not project through the insole j, and the necessity of clinching their
ends is dispensed with. In lasting in this manner I have found it advantageous to
employ tacks or tingles the points of which are somewhat bent or curved. Or
when the boot is lasted in the ordinary manner as shewn in figures 10, 11, 12, 13,
14 and 15 I sew the middle sole k, the upper l, and a first insole j, together;
the second insole j¹, is then inserted and sewn as shewn in figures 10, 11 and 12 (I
prefer sewing through the second insole with a thread without the wax ordinarily
used) or screwed as shewn in figures 13, 14 and 15, from the middle sole k, as
shewn or through from the outer sole as described in the Specification of former
Letters Patent granted to me and dated the seventh day of September 1881,
N° 3884; m, m, represent the stitches and n, n, the screws, the said parts may
be rivetted or pegged together instead of being screwed or sewn. Instead of
employing a double insole, where the parts are secured together by sewing and
screwing combined as herein before described and shewn in figures 13, 14 and 15
I sometimes employ a single insole, in which case I sew through and screw into or
through the insole.
By a modification of the method of lasting above described I sometimes as
shewn in figure 16 employ an insole made of two thicknesses j, and j¹, (or more
than two thicknesses) forming an insole stouter than the ordinary insole now in use so
that when the upper is lasted to the insole the tingles or tacks h, or the like do
not go through to the inside of the boot or shoe, I then sew (or screw, peg or rivet)
the middle sole or welt c, (or the outersole) to the insole j, j'.
Or by a further modification I employ an insole made of two (or more)

page_text: thicknesses j, j¹, as shewn in figures 17 and 18 and after lasting with tacks h, or
the like I take out the upper thickness j', of the insole j, j¹. and clinch the tacks h,
over the top of the part j, of the insole as shewn in figure 17 by inserting an iron
last or by other suitable means after which I again insert the part j¹, taken out or
a similar one, and screw, peg, sew or rivet the middle sole, welt or outersole to the
said insoles; or before inserting the part taken out or a similar one I screw, peg,
sew or rivet the part left in; or I last with one insole on a wooden last or a last
with a groove and afterwards clinch on an iron or other suitable last.
Or I sometimes last on an insole of one or more thicknesses and after taking
out the last I sew, screw, peg or rivet the upper or middle sole (or welt) and the
upper through the inner sole or inner soles and afterwards take out the lasting
tacks or the like before proceeding further with the making of the boot or shoe;
or I last in the manner last described and after taking out the tacks or the like
I insert a second insole and sew, screw, peg or rivet the welt, middle sole, or
outersole to the inner soles.
By a further modification of my method of lasting I sometimes before or after
sewing, screwing, pegging or rivetting the middle sole through the upper and first
insole take out the centre of the said middle sole k, as shewn in figures 19 and 20
and also sometimes take out the tacks together with a portion of the upper 1, and
also the first insole, leaving only a welt and then fill in the space with felt or
other like material so as not only to make the boot lighter in weight and also
more pliable to the foot but also to prevent the squeaking so objectionable in
boots and shoes. Instead of cutting out the centre of the middle sole k, as
herein before described and shewn in figures 19 and 20 I sometimes use a
welt only and dispense with the middle sole k, and proceed in the manner last
described.
Each of the above mentioned methods of lasting is applicable to lasting the
heel or seat of the boot or shoe to the upper or lifts and insole.
For this purpose
when only one insole is used or an insole of two or more thicknesses I prefer in
the first place to fix the heel or seat in position by means of short tacks which
will not go through to the inside of the boot or shoe and I then screw round the
heel or seat with screws of a length sufficient to secure the same without going
through the insole and then proceed to build the heel with rivets or the like not
passing through to the inside of the boot or shoe. In this manner the inside of
the boot is left quite smooth when finished.
Having thus described my said invention and the manner of performing the
same I wish it to be understood that what I claim is :-
Firstly. The manufacture and use of a watertight boot or shoe fastening at the
side or otherwise to fasten with eyelets in the manner described and the quarters
of which overlap one another and are provided with a folding gore or tongue
substantially as herein before described and represented in figures 1 to 4 of the
accompanying drawing.
Secondly. The manufacture and use of the modified arrangement of boot or
shoe hereinbefore described and represented in 6igures 5 to 8 of the accompanying
drawing.
Thirdly. The method herein described of lasting boots and shoes by driving
the tacks, tingles or the like in an oblique direction through the upper into the
insole substantially in the manner and for the purposes hereinbefore described and
illustrated in figure 9 of the accompanying drawing.
Fourthly. In a boot or shoe I claim the employment of an insole formed of
more than one thickness and secured to the boot or shoe by the various methods
herein described and illustrated by reference to figures 10 to 20 of the accom-
panying drawing.
Fifthly. The method herein described of securing the middle sole or welt and
upper to the insole or insoles of boots and shoes substantially as described and
represented in figures 10, 11 and 12 of the accompanying drawing.
Sixthly. The method of securing the middle sole or welt and upper to the

page_text: insole or insoles of boots and shoes substantially in the manner and for the purposes
herein before described and represented in figures 13, 14 and 15 of the accompanying
drawing.
Seventhly. The method of manufacturing boots and shoes substantially as and
for the purposes hereinbefore described and represented in figure 16 of the
accompanying drawing.
Eighthly. The method of manufacturing boots and shoes as herein before
described by the employment of an insole of more than one thickness and after
lasting taking out the upper thickness and clinching the lasting tacks, tingles or
the like and then replacing the upper thickness (or substituting a similar one) of
the insole substantially in the manner and for the purposes hereinbefore described
and represented in figures 17 and 18 of the accompanying drawing.
Ninthly. The improvements in the manufacture of boots and shoes consisting
in cutting out or removing a portion of the middle sole and after the middle sole
has been screwed sewn, pegged or rivetted taking out the lasting tacks or the like
and then replacing the part cut out substantially as herein before described.
Tenthly. In the manufacture of boots or shoes the cutting away of the middle
sole so as to leave a welt only the cut away part being filled in with felt or other
suitable material substantially in the manner and for the purposes hereinbefore
described and represented in figures 19 and 20 of the accompanying drawing.
Eleventhly. The method herein described of fastening the heel or seat of a boot
or shoe to the insole by means of screws not passing through to the inside in the
manner and for the purposes herein before described.
In Witness whereof I the said Thomas Laycock have hereto set my hand and
seal this twenty eighth day of June in the year of our Lord one thousand
eight hundred and eighty three
THOMAS LAYCOCK (L.S.)