IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF CARPETS
Year: 1882

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Francis Best Fawcett of Kidderminster in the County of
Worcester Commission Agent for an Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE
MANUFACTURE OF CARPETS
"
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Francis Best Fawcett at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 23rd December 1882.
FRANCIS BEST FAWCETT of Kidderminster in the County of Worcester
Commission Agent. "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF CARPETS
"
My Invention has for its object to effect a saving of weft material and in some
cases of time as well as in the process of weaving velvet carpets by means of
the Jacquard, Brussels and tapestry power looms, as compared with the better
qualities now produced, in which a third or additional weft per wire or row of
figure warps, is introduced for the purpose of binding in tighter the said figure
warps when the loops thereof are cut to make into velvet. By my invention
the figure warps can be well bound with using only the usual quantity of wefts
viz. two per wire or row of figure warps and thus the saving is effected.
looped surface or uncut carpets are made on the looms as arranged for the above
velvets, they will have from the manner of weaving a novel appearance, as if every
other row of loops was woven with a larger wire and the alternate row with a
smaller wire. In some cases a larger and smaller size of wires may be used
alternately to make the surface even or level, in others the same size of wires will
make the surface level.
If
By another modification looped surface carpets may be made to have the usual
appearance of each row of loops being of equal size; but in common with the
velvets and other descriptions of carpets, made according to this part of my
invention, having the advantages of the figure warps being tighter bound and a
softer and more luxurious texture.
The ordinary three shot Brussels or looped surface carpets may also be improved
in appearance, by a further developement of the above modification as to the manner

page_text: in which the rows of figure warps are bound, so as to produce rounder and fuller
loops; as now made the rows of loops are pinched up and do not cover or join up
together well.
The texture would be of the usual stiff and hard character.
In carpets woven in the Jacquard Brussels power loom having the alternate
appearance this will afford artists in drawing patterns facility for new effects, as
the lighter colors for tinting and edging objects may be confined to the smaller row
of loops, and other colors required to work in larger masses may range freely over
both sizes of loops.
I adapt the aforesaid power looms to bind the wires or rows of figure warps
whether for cutting for velvet or for leaving uncut for looped surface carpets, in
such manner that the upper or surface wefts are brought close together, and assist
each other in binding tighter between them the rows of figure warps, instead of
each upper weft being separately bound apart from those, preceding and following
it; as is now the case, where only two wefts per wire are employed.
My invention also has for its object to effect a saving of worsted or figure warps
in all descriptions of carpets woven in the Jacquard Brussels power looms and also
to afford artists in drawing patterns facilities for finer outlines, for getting in a new
manner the dark shades for perspective shading, veining and other purposes, also
for tinting or edging objects, and other novel effects. I use worsted or figure
warps of less thickness or bulk than usual for the several colors and raise two or
more colors or different shades of the same color, and in some cases two or more.
threads of the same color when working in different frames in each reed of the
slay to make up the quantity on the surface, whilst the lesser thickness or bulk will
effect the saving out, of the back of the carpet. This can be done in the process of
stamping the cards for the Jacquard part of the loom.
Some portion of the worsteds or figure warps may be of the ordinary bulk or
sizes, and used in the usual manner.
The patterns should be drawn upon design paper arranged in the proportion of
two to one or thereabouts. The twos being for the lengthways of the pattern and
carpet, and the ones being for the cross ways, or from selvage to selvage.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said Francis Best Fawcett in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
23rd June 1883.
FRANCIS BEST FAWCETT of Kidderminster in the County of Worcester
Commission Agent "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF CARPETS
">
My invention has for its object to effect a saving of weft material and in some
cases of time as well as in the process of weaving velvet carpets by means of the
Jacquard, brussels and tapestry power looms as compared with the better qualities
now produced in which a third or additional weft per wire or row of figure warps
is introduced for the purpose of binding in tighter the said figure warps when the
loops thereof are cut to make into velvet. By my invention the figure warps can
be well bound with using only the usual quantity of wefts viz. two per wire or
row of figure warps and thus the saving is effected. If looped surface or uncut
carpets are made on the looms as arranged for the above velvets they will have
from the manner of weaving a novel appearance as if every other row of loops was
woven with a larger wire and the alternate row with a smaller wire.
In some
cases a larger and smaller size of wires may be used alternately to make the
surface even or level.
I adapt the looms in such manner that the upper or surface wefts are brought
close together and assist each other in binding tighter between them the rows.
of figure warps instead of each upper weft being separately bound apart from
those preceding and following it as is now the case where only two wefts per
wire are employed.
Figure 1 is a sectional diagram of a carpet thus woven.
a. a. a. are the pile warps shown raised upon the surface in loops. b is the
binder warp.
c is a warp which I call the semi-binder because although it aids in tying the
weft on the face of the fabric it does not go through below the back shoots of
weft.
d is the stuffer warp.
The numerals 1. 2. 3 and 4 indicate shoots of weft in the order in which
they are inserted.
O and O O'mark the places where shoots are omitted as hereinafter explained if
the loom employed be an ordinary three shot loom.
In carrying out my improvements I prefer to employ the power looms known as
the Crossley looms but the invention is applicable to other looms and cams could
easily be applied from these descriptions.
I take the ordinary 3 shot Jacquard Brussels or tapesty power looms and make
the following alterations and improvements. I divide the binder warp into two
halves working each half on a separate beam and of course weighting them lighter
accordingly.
The one half which I use as a binder warp (and this should be of good strong
material) I put in the usual place at the bottom of the back part of the loom; the
other half which is used as semi-binder warp (and need not be of so good quality
material as the other) may work in the middle or upper place in the loom where
stuffers are sometimes worked. The stuffers may be worked as they are frequently
done under the bobbins creels or frames of the Brussels loom.
In the tapestry
loom it will be necessary to arrange some convenient place for an additional beam,
say for the semi-binder warp, the stuffer being worked in the ordinary place.
I detach in the Brussels looms the stuffer heald from the comber board and.

page_text: work it with a cam and levers in the same manner as the binder and semi-binder
warps are operated from the treadle box. In the tapesty looms this is already the
case and will need no alteration.
The cam for the binder warp for both looms will require to be made to raise the
binder warp to its top position and keep it up during 4 picks or beats of the
lay and to lower it to its bottom position and keep it down during 2 beats of
the lay.
The cam for the semi-binder warp for both looms will be just the reverse, viz, to
be up during two beats and down during four beats.
The cam for the stuffer in the Brussels 3 shot loom will require to be made to
raise it for one beat, viz, for when the weft is put on the back of the carpet and it
is to be so arranged as to fall sooner or in advance of the comber board and indeed
as rapidly as possible after the insertion of the back weft so as to take the pressure
or friction of the said back weft off the main body of the figure warps when the
said back weft is being beat up by the lay and thus prevent the figure warps from
being unduly worked up into the back of the carpet; this is rendered necessary by
the wefts on the back of the carpet being further apart than usual owing to the
saving or fewer wefts being used causing a tendency to use up the figure warps
more freely.
The cam to keep the stuffer warp down during 5 beats of the lay.
There are several minor advantages from this mode of operating the stuffer as
for instance it can be more heavily weighted if required which enables the carpet
to be woven closer and saves clogging the comber board with heavy weights to
take the stuffer down when attached to it and the loom works easier &o. It is
also equally advantageous when applied to ordinary Brussels fabrics.
The position of the binding warp, semi-binding warp and stuffer cams in the
treadle box of the brussels 3 shot looms, and of the 2 former in the tapestry 3 shot
looms (as the ordinary stuffer cam will do in its usual position) will be dependent
upon the manner in which the picking arrangements are adapted for causing the
shuttle to miss 2 picks out of 6 or to pick 4 times instead of 6, in the 6 beats of
the lay which completes the round of changes gone through by 3 shot looms.
This may be varied; but I prefer to make the shuttle miss its first time by
preventing it passing on the back of the carpet from the left side of the loom and
the second time of missing will be the succeeding beat of the lay. This may be
done by simply taking off the hammer of the picking tappit on the said left side
and this alone would have the effect of causing the shuttle to miss 2 successive
times, but to save an unnecessary movement of the picking stick on the right side
the hammer might be taken off for the 2nd time of missing. The cams and levers
for sliding the picks to and fro should work as usual
By this arrangement the shuttle will pick on the back of the carpet from the
right side only and the binding warp cam should be placed in the treadle box to
lower it for receiving the weft on the back when the shuttle is about to pick from
the said right side, it would then remain down for the next pick and then rise and
remain up during the next 4 beats of the lay.
The cam for the semi-binding warp should be put to change in the reverse
manner with the binding warp cam, viz, to fall when it rises and rise when it falls.
The stuffer cam for the brussels 3 shot loom should be placed in the treadle box to
raise it at the same time that the binding warp falls, and after the weft has
passed on the back to fall again and remain down. the remaining 5 beats of the
Jay. The leisures or selvage cords should be worked the one on the right side
through the binding warp heald, the one on the left side from one of the levers
that slides the picks to and fro; by a cord running over a roller affixed to the
framing of the loom so that it may rise and fall with the said lever.
To make the cut loops or pile of a uniform height the wires should be of 2 sizes
used alternately of about 2 sizes difference between them say if flat wires are used
No 9 for the large size and N° 11 for the small size according to the quality
required. All other arrangements of the looms may be in the usual manner, or

page_text: in the case of jacquard brussels power looms may be combined with the last part
of this invention.
The looms being ready for weaving the large wires should be arranged to be put
in always at the time the weft is being put on the back of the carpet and the
small wire when the shuttle misses going on the back. It will be found in the
process of weaving that there is one beat up of the lay, viz, the one following the
insertion of the small wire that could be dispensed with; and that the improved
fabric could be woven with 5 beats of the lay instead of 6 which any mechanical
loom tuner would know how to arrange, but as the expense of altering the looms
would be considerable and the loom could not so readily be altered to weave the
ordinary fabrics I prefer to make it as above described.
It will also be seen that the semi binding warp receives only one weft on the
surface and does not go down to the back of the carpet so that there will be some
slight saving of the material and that it rises immediately under the 2 wefts bound
close together by the binding warp and will have a tendency to prevent the figure
warps from being worked up on the surface under the wires.
The fabric produced will be similar in appearance of surface to 3 shot with the
pile well bound and a saving of one weft per wire effected.
It would be very suitable for where the fabric is required to be woven closer
and figure warps of a lesser thickness employed; for making chair seatings and
other purposes.
The foregoing arrangements though saving weft material with some economy of
semi-binding and figure warps do not save time in the process of weaving as
compared with 3 shot unless adapted to the 5 beats of the lay arrangement.
I will now describe an arrangement for saving time as compared with 3 shot in
the said process of weaving as well as weft and other materials.
The fabric will present in some cases the novel appearance of large and small
rows alternately in others a more equal appearance will be obtained. Figure 2 is
the diagram lengthways of the carpet.
To weave this fabric I take the ordinary Jacquard brussels and tapestry double
shed or 2 shot power looms and make the following alterations. I employ a
binder warp as in the former description being only half a usual warp and dispense
with the semi-binder warp altogether.
The cam for the binder warp is made to raise it to its top position and keep it
up during 3 beats of the lay, or 3 revolutions of the crank shaft then lower it to
its bottom position for 1 beat of the lay. Four beats of the lay being the number
which completes the round of changes gone through by 2 shot looms.
In the Jacquard Brussel power looms I employ a stuffer to which I give a motion
independent from the comber board as I have already explained and this is now
essential for producing the fabric itself as well as for preventing the figure warps
from being unduly worked up into the back of the carpets and I prefer to have at
least one thread in every reed of the slay. In the tapestry power looms a portion
of the stuffer say one third or one thread in every reed of the slay should be drawn
through the heald released by dispensing with the semi-binding warp and operated
by a special cam; the other portion of the stuffer may be worked with the ordinary
cam in the usual manner. The special cam is made to be up 1 beat of the lay and
down 3 beats for both looms.
The cam for the binder warp should be placed in the treadle box to be down to
receive an alternate weft on the back and the special cam for the stuffer to be up at
the same time and the latter will consequently receive the other alternate weft on
the back as it will be remaining down at that time, all other arrangements of the
looms may be in the usual manner or combined with the last part of this invention
as far as Jacquard Brussel power looms are concerned.
It will be found in the process of weaving that every other wire, viz, the one that
is put in when the weft on the back is received by the stuffer will be raised
.considerably higher than the alternate wire.

page_text: If it be desired to make the surface even or of uniform height, wires of about
3 or 4 sizes difference by the gauge should be alternately employed.
The large sized wires should be either round or only slightly flattened.
The small sized wires may be either flat or round.
In weaving velvets the fabric will have a tendency to present a more equal
appearance but in uncut loops to show the alternate rows.
This improvement is also available for weaving carpets with every other row of
cut pile and the alternate row of uncut loops as the said cut pile and uncut loops
will be better and tighter bound than when woven in the ordinary 2 shot manner.
In this latter fabric the appearance of large and small rows may be produced by
having knives upon the large wires and the small wires without, or by reversing
this arrangement an equality in the appearance of the rows will be obtained.
In fabrics woven in the Jacquard Brussels power looms when it is desired to
have the alternate appearance for producing new effects the patterns may be adapted
in the drawing for these purposes, by confining colors in places to either the large
or small rows, as for example the lighter colors for tinting and edging objects may
be confined to the smaller rows, or if it is desired to produce the effect of gold dust
scattered about, a gold color may be confined to the smaller rows in spots which
would look smaller and more sparkling than if upon the larger rows, again different
effects of color may be produced by using colors upon the alternate rows sometimes
one way, and sometimes the reverse way; or a color may be shaded in a medium
way by using a black or some dark shade on the smaller rows, or in a darker way
upon the larger rows; these and many other novel effects may be produced, as
would be well understood by any practical carpet manufacture or pattern
designer.
The order of weaving will be similar to 2 shot, vis, each wire will be put in when
a weft is being put on the back followed by a weft on the surface, but the surface
wefts will be bound close together in pairs thus binding the pile warp tight
between them
The ordinary three shot Brussels or looped surface carpets may also be improved
in appearance by a modification as to the manner in which the rows of figure warps
are bound, so as to produce rounder and fuller loops; as now made the rows of
loops are pinched up and do not cover or join up together well.
The texture would be of the usual stiff and hard character.
This I will now further explain :
:-
Brussels carpets are sometimes woven three shot for the purpose of making them
thicker and handle better as it is technically called with the result that the rows
of loops are pinched up between two successive top shoots of weft and do not look
so well as when woven in the ordinary two shot manner.
This improvement may be carried out in two ways first and most simple would
be by making the cam operating the Jacquard to rise a pick. sooner and remain
up 2 picks which would have the effect of causing the additional weft on the
surface to go under instead of over the lash or figure warps raised by the Jacquard.
This arrangement is illustrated by the section of fabric shown in Figure 3.
Another way which I prefer is to make the cams for raising the comber board to
be up two picks instead of one and put on the loom to rise at the usual time but
remain up a pick longer or later, in this case the Jacquard cam would have to be
up a pick longer (rising at the usual time) but after the wire is inserted instead of
remaining up at its top position it should be made to fall down about half way so
that the figure warps may fall to the level of the main body raised by the comber
board falling the remainder when the comber board goes down.
This will put some pressure upon the wire and prevent its being drawn back
again by the hopper when leaving the bow of the wire. The result will be that
the third or additional weft will be put on the back of the carpet.
Figure 4 is a section diagram of the fabric thus produced.
The binder warp cams should be put a pick later. This would enable a some-

page_text: what finer weft to be used which would improve the appearance of the surface and
the extra weft being on the back would give proportionately more handle than if
on the surface.
The carpet may also be made much heavier by using a thicker weft and fabrics
useful for rug purposes or square carpets may be produced. With this arrangement
the leisures or selvage cords should be operated by the Jacquard lifting board and
the half way fall will give the necessary change to the said selvage cords.
Another part of my invention has for its object to effect a saving of worsted or
figure warps in all descriptions of carpets woven in the Jacquard Brussels power
looms, and also to afford Artists in drawing patterns facilities for finer outlines; for
getting in a new manner the dark shades for perspective, shading, veining and
other purposes and other novel effects.
In the ordinary Brussels loom several sets of pile warp threads are employed. I
shall speak of these as the "worsted warp" although pile warps of other materials
are occasionally employed
The threads in the several sets are differently colored and the pattern upon the
carpet results from threads of the desired color being brought to the surface whilst
the other threads are buried out of sight.
The threads which are raised are looped up over wires laid into the loom across
the fabric from selvage to selvage; these wires are afterwards drawn out, or if a
cut pile be required the loops are cut.
The worsted warp threads are wound upon numerous bobbins, and each set of
bobbins is carried in a frame, hence a loom which can employ five sets of these
threads has become known as a five frame loom. In some looms there are six sets
of these threads, and these are known as 6 frame looms.
One worsted warp thread from each frame is led through each dent or aperture
in the reed (called "reeds of the slay" in Kidderminster) of the loom together with
two other warp threads which are of linen or other material and which do not
appear on the surface but form the back of the fabric and tie in and render secure
the loops of the worsted warp.
Of these worsted warp threads only one of those in each dent of the reed is
raised at a time. This thread appears on the surface, it forms the loop over the
wire whilst the other threads pass beneath the wire and are hidden in the back of
the fabric.
Two threads. N° 10, 11 or 12, or three threads N° 15", 16", 17" or 18" are very
constantly employed called in the plural N° tens, elevens, twelves, sixteens,
seventeens, eighteens.
These worsted threads are not single threads but double or triple, being composed
each of two or three single threads slightly twisted together.
The selection of the threads is dependent upon a Jacquard engine and upon the
positions of the holes formed in the cards of this apparatus.
Each warp thread concerned in producing the pattern to whichever frame it
may belong (excepting usually the warp threads of one frame) is connected with
one of a numerous series of needles.
When one of the Jacquard cards is presented to and pressed against this series
One needle
of needles, the needles are pushed back by the card, being left intact.
for each dent of the reed is so moved and the others pass through holes provided
for them in the card with the result that the thread connected with the displaced
needle is raised and in the further operation of the loom forms a loop over the
wire.
It is usual as already stated not to provide Jacquard needles for one frame of
warp threads--in this case the construction of the mechanisin is such that these
threads are raised each whenever no other worsted warp thread in the same dent
of the reed is lifted to form the loop over the wire.
The routine of working (baving regard only to the worsted warps) is to select
and raise as described one of these and one only in each dent of the reed to insert
the pile wire beneath them, then to take them down again and in the working of

page_text: the loom tie them into the back of the fabric, then to make another selection, of
one thread in each dent raise these and insert another wire and so on.
In designing the pattern for a carpet of this description paper ruled into squares
is employed.
Each square is taken to represent one loop to be formed in the carpet.
The squares on the paper are filled in by the designer with color each with the
color of the worsted warp thread with which the loop represented is to be
produced.
Thus the squares in one longitudinal line of the pattern represent loops on the
face of the carpet successively produced by the worsted threads which pass through
one dent of the reed one of these threads being selected to produce each loop.
The squares in any transverse line of the pattern represent loops simultaneously
produced each by one worsted warp thread for each dent of the reed.
The next operation I need not describe in detail is to punch the holes in the
Jacquard cards. A hole is provided in each card for every needle excepting one
only for each square of the pattern, and sometimes as already explained a color or
frame is represented by all holes, but never are two spaces left intact for the same
square of the pattern.
I have referred at some length to the ordinary Brussels power loom and the way
in which carpets are ordinarily woven therein in order more clearly to explain my
method of working.
Instead of employing worsted warp threads of the ordinary thickness and
raising them singly to produce the loop, I employ Figure warps of worsted or
other material of different thicknesses some thick and some thin.
The thick warp threads may be of the usual substance, and the thin warp
threads of about half this substance, and such that two taken together will make
up about the usual substance.
The thick warp threads I employ singly in some parts or blocks of the pattern
and the thin warp threads I use in other parts or blocks of the pattern, raising
two or more threads together in the same dent of the reed to form a compound
loop corresponding to a single square of the pattern. I can also obtain additional
effects by having the pile heavier in some parts of the surface of the carpet than
in other parts as for example I can raise the ground or filling work or plainer parts
of the pattern from two or more frames in the same dents of the reed to make
them of greater thickness. There will often be more pile on the surface than in
carpets made in the usual manner, rendering them more durable and the extra
thickness will tend to cause the pile warp to be more tightly bound, which will
.prevent "sprouting," or the pile warp dragging out in the wear.
Also I can use the thin warp threads in other parts or blocks of the pattern by
raising two or more together in the same dents of the reed to form compound
parti-color loops corresponding to single squares of the pattern.
I can have the same color working in two different frames for the double
advantage of either raising them together or singly with other colors. And be it
observed that simultaneously raising threads (whether thick or thin) from two or
more frames in the same dent of the reed, is the equivalent to one square of the
pattern.
Another point in which my method deviates from the ordinary course of
manufacture is in the preparation of the design. I produce the design on paper
so ruled that each of the squares of the ordinary design paper is divided into two
parts side by side (for greater convenience the spaces on the paper may be oblong
and not square, but this is a minor detail).
In some parts of the design I mark the squares of the design paper all over with
one color as heretofore without regard to the subdivision of the squares of the
design paper which I have introduced but in other parts of the design I mark
each square with two colors one color on one side and another color on the other
side.
Following along a line of squares running lengthwise of the pattern I sometimes

page_text: use the same color in marking opposite sides of squares thus one square will be
marked say brown on the right side and another square in the same longitudinal
line will be marked brown on the left side, the remaining parts being of some
other color or colors.
By alternating such squares in the same line and in adjacent lines of the pattern
I can produce a fine chequered effect. Thus I can shade one color with another
every square partaking of the two colors, arranged alternately to the right and left
of the square thus avoiding (where this is desirable) the appearance of stripes.
I may also mark the right side of one square with the same color as the left side
of the square next to it in a transverse line and so obtain the effect of a complete
square of one color not in place on any longitudinal line of the pattern but in an
intermediate position or standing partly on two lines.
I may form a series of such squares in a longitudinal line not coincident with
any longitudinal line of the pattern.
I can contrast in adjacent parts of the pattern solid squares of one color, with
parti-colored squares each with the two parts differently colored.
I can produce an outline to a pattern with greater accuracy or smoothness
for I can place a dot of the outlining color on either side of any square of the
pattern.
If need be I can form a figure in the pattern with greater accuracy for I can
place squares intermediate of the longitudinal lines of the pattern.
I will now describe how I set up the loom to reproduce in the weaving of the
carpet the effects drawn on the pattern paper as above described. In illustration I
will assume that the loon is a five frame loom of the ordinary description in which
case there will be five pile warp threads in the same dent of the reed and the
Jacquard will lift four of them in any combinations with each other whenever
suitable spaces are left in the Jacquard cards. The stamping of the Jacquard
differs from what is usual in that sometimes but one space of the card is left intact
for one dent of the reed and at other times two or more. When no space is left
intact then from the construction of the apparatus the fifth thread will be lifted;
the Jacquard not then raising any of the other four threads. The fifth threads
cannot be lifted at other times. Thus these fifth threads or in other words the
threads of the fifth frame cannot be used in combination.
This however is by no means necessarily the case in the practice of my invention,
it is so only when I employ (as I find it convenient to do) a Jacquard of the
ordinary construction. The greater the scope of the Jacquard the better it is
suited to the practice of my invention.
In this fifth frame it will be convenient to have worsted of the usual substance,
and in the other frames to have worsted of about half this substance, it may be
thin worsted in all these frames or in some of them, with thick in others or in
parts of some or all of the frames there may be thin threads and thick threads in
the other parts, and of the suitable colors according to the requirements of the
pattern and quality to be produced. The quality may be varied by employing a
different number of frames.
When I desire to produce patterns of greater smoothness of outline the first
frame and the fourth frame (or the extreme independent frames) will be those
which I select to carry worsted of the outlining color (say) of the half thickness;
often this will be a dark color or black employed in the pattern both for grounding
when threads of the two extreme frames are brought up together and also for
shading and veining when they are raised one at a time with threads from other
frames. In short I place in the exterior frames the color which I desire to employ
in the pattern for these purposes with the greatest precision for it will be seen that
when a thread of the first frame is raised it will appear (say) to the right of a
thread of the second or third frame in the same dent of the reed which is raised
simultaneously with it, whereas when a thread of the fourth frame is raised it will
appear to the left of the thread simultaneously raised from an intermediate
frame.

page_text: The second and the third frames carry (say) worsted of the half thickness of
colors to be used in combination in the same square of the pattern and also
to be shaded or veined with the color in the first and fourth frames.
In this case although there are five frames in use the amount of worsted
employed is no more than is commonly used in three frames, for four out of the
five frames are supplied with threads of half the usual thickness.
The first and fourth frames will be raised together for the ground of the
pattern and each separately with threads of other frames for other purposes
the fifth frame carrying worsted of the usual thickness will be operated in the
ordinary way.
In producing a shaded effect whilst avoiding the appearance of stripes the way
of working following a longitudinal line of the pattern will be as follows;-first
the color to be shaded will be raised together with the first frame thread in the
same dent of the reed or longitudinal line of the pattern and so these two threads
will be brought up together over the wire to form one compound loop of the pile
corresponding to one loop of the ordinary brussels carpet or the square of the
pattern. Then after the ordinary sequence of operations and inserting the weft to
tie in a line of loops, the same thread of the intermediate frame is again raised but
together with the fourth frame thread in the same dent. The compound loop thus
produced is tied in by the weft next inserted and then it is the turn for the first
frame thread to come up together with the intermediate thread. Thus the work is
carried out so far as the shaded effect is required and the threads in adjacent dents
of the reed operate similarly over the extent in width to which the shading is to
reach. It is to be observed however that the first frame thread in one dent of the
reed rises simultaneously with the fourth frame thread in the next dent. The
result is to produce in the fabric a chequered arrangement of the two colors like
the squares of a chess board but two of the chequers are in the same longitudinal
line of the pattern and go to make one square of the pattern. I can if I desire it
produce a fine striped shading by raising the threads of the intermediate frame
continuously with the same threads of one or other of the two extreme frames.
It will be observed that threads from the intermediate frames will when working
with threads from the outer frames be placed by these threads so that a warp
thread from an intermediate frame will be placed to the right or the left side of the
square of the pattern according as it is for the time being working with a thread
from one or other of the extreme frames.
Again another effect is obtained by using continuously in one dent the thread of
one extreme frame (say the first) and in the next dent the thread of the other
extreme frame (the fourth) together with threads of the same intermediate frame
in each.
4
I can if I desire it and where the capacity of the Jacquard admits have two
colors each occupying two outer frames for the purposes of grounding veining
shading outlining and forming patterns with precision as already explained. A
finer or closer reed or slay may be used for the better dividing the threads when
required.
Having thus described the nature of my said Invention and the manner of
performing the same I would remark that I make no general claim to raising two
figure warp threads in the same dent of the reed but would have it understood that
I claim :-
First, The method of weaving carpets in which weft is saved by the omission of
picks substantially as described and illustrated in Figure 1.
Second. The method of weaving carpets as described and illustrated by Figure 2
of the annexed Drawings in which time is saved and a safe tie is obtained with
two picks to each wire and with the stuffer passing below each alternate pick on
the back.
Third. The method of working the stuffer warp, detaching its heald from the
comber board and operating it independently as and for the purposes described.
Fourth. The manufacture of carpets as herein described with alternate rows of

page_text: pile and with certain colors in parts or blocks of the pattern confined to either the
large or small rows of pile.
Fifth. The method of weaving three shot fabric as described and illustrated by
Figure 3 where in place of raising the pile loops under and between two adjacent
upper shoots they are raised over one of them, and thus the loops are made fuller
and rounder.
Sixth. The method of weaving three shot fabric as described and illustrated by
Figure 4 in which the third shoot is removed from the face to the back of the
fabric whereby the pinching of the pile loops is avoided and a firmer fabric
produced.
Seventh. In weaving carpets the use in combination of thick and thin Figure
warps the thick warp threads being raised over wires singly to produce some
parts or blocks of the pattern and the thin warp threads being raised together to
produce other parts or blocks of the pattern substantially as described,
Eighth. In weaving carpets the employment of two frames of similar warps
from which threads are raised over the wires, sometimes together to produce solid
effects with the same colors and sometimes separately but along with threads from
other frames to produce mixed effects with parti-colors substantially as described.
Ninth. In weaving carpets the employment of two frames of similar warp
threads rising over the wires respectively to the right and left so as thereby more
accurately to outline and form figures with the other colors and the better to shade
other colors substantially as described.
Tenth. In weaving carpets raising over the wires sometimes a thread from one
frame only and sometimes threads from two or more frames, thereby producing
solid and additional mixed effects and rendering the pile heavier in parts or blocks
of the pattern as required and so improving the quality and appearance substantially
as described.
In witness whereof I the said Francis Best Fawcett have hereunto set my
hand and seal this twenty second day of June in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and eighty three.