Improvements in Patterns for Marking out Wearing Apparel.
Year: 1887

page_text: Date of Application, 23rd Feb., 1887
Complete Left, 23rd Nov., 1887
Complete Accepted, 23rd Dec., 1887
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Patterns for Marking out Wearing Apparel.
FREDERICK CHARLES NOAR Wholesale Clothier 14 Church Street Manchester do
hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
Automatic expanding contracting and adjustable patterns, made so as to expand or
contract to any given measures principally applicable to marking out garments to
measure where the sizes vary continually. This end I accomplish by adjusting fine
telescopic tubes or wires or slides around a flat brass or wooden telescopic frame in
such a way as to delineate the outline required; such wires or tubes being actuated
by cams, levers and slides in such a manner that the size and shape can be regulated
ut will, by a pointer working on a numbered dial plate. Thus saving the necessity of
using paper patterns or draughting out by system.
The advantages I claim, are, a great saving of time, greater accuracy,
labour dispensed with.
and skilled

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Patterns for Marking out Wearing Apparel.
I FREDERICK CHARLES NOAR of 14 Church Street, Manchester, in the County of
Lancaster, Wholesale Clothier do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in
what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement and accompanying drawings:—
My said Invention relates to patterns for marking out garments to measure and
consists of apparatus constituting an outline or outlines or combinations of outlines
which are capable of being automatically expanded contracted and adjusted in
accordance with any given measures and which preserve at all times the correct
relative ratios and proportions of the various curves and lines to which it is necessary
to adhere under all sizes in order to produce an elegant and properly fitting and
fashionable garment. The apparatus consists of a frame of the shape of the special
garment in the production of which it is intended to be used. This frame is
composed of wires or tubes or parts sliding telescopically within each other and
possessed of sufficient elasticity to assume various curvatures. The adjustable
sections of the frame can be slid together or drawn apart and bent to the proper sizes
and curvatures either with relation to lengths, breadths, diagonals, or other
proportions and directions.
And in order that my said invention may be properly understood I will now
proceed more particularly to describe the same with reference to the accompanying
three sheets of illustrative drawings.
The chief skill of a tailor's cutter consists in the mode of connecting the various
measurements of a garment by curves and lines which are governed by certain
existing proportions generally fixed by the current fashion of a garment. To acquire
the power of thus connecting and manipulating the measurements, an operator must
have had large experience and also some artistic feeling so that a good tailor's cutter
is a highly paid workman. As an example of shape I have shown on sheet 1 of the
drawings the outlines of the front and back portions A and B which comprise the leg
of a pair of trousers-the front portion A is shown in dotted lines the back portion
B in full lines. Referring to B, granted that the four dimensions 1 to 2; 3 to 4 ;
5 to 6; and 7 to 8 and their relative heights have been fixed, by applying the tape
to the person for whom the garment is intended, the laying down of these
measurements and the connecting of the various points 1 and 3; 3 and 5; 5 and 7 and
so on, by curves and lines which shall be elegant and in accordance with fashion is a
matter of calculation, time and difficulty, when done by hand. By means of the
apparatus shown on sheet 2 the requisite outlines embodying all of the fixed
measurements can be delineated quickly and without the necessity for calculation or
skill on the part of the operator, the lengths being adjusted by sliding the frame
together by hand and the breadths by turning the pointer on the dials shown on the
drawings. The marking frame shown at Fig. 1 sheet 2 and which is intended for
use in the production of trousers, incorporates in one apparatus the outlines of both

page_text: to 3.
the back and front portions of the trousers and these outlines are in the same relative
positions as shown on sheet 1. The frame is composed of tubes sliding one within
the other or of wires sliding in tubes. The outer tubes a are all shown in thick lines
in the drawing, the inner sliding tubes or wires b are shown in thin lines. The
frame is adjustable to two lengths, (1st) the length of the leg from 7 to 3, and (2nd)
the total length to the waist viz. from 8 to 2. It will be seen that a scale c marked
with numerals is fixed on the left side of the frame, this scale being for the length 7
Another scale d is fixed on the right side of the frame to adjust the length 8
to 2. The index e which moves backward and forward over the scale d is carried by
a wire which extends from the foot of the frame and slides inside of the tube b.
This wire and index is shown at Fig. 4 sheet 2. The tube b in its turn slides inside
of the outer tube a for a certain distance on both sides of the frame. The index g
which moves over the scale c is similarly carried by a wire extending from the
lower sliding part of the frame. When the length of the leg from 7 to 3 is
ascertained by measurement with the tape, the lower part of the frame is slid up till
the index g points to the numeral on the scale corresponding to the measurement of
length. For example in the drawing the index g on the scale c points to 32 inches
this being the length of leg which has been ascertained by measurement; while the
index c on the scale d points to 45 inches this being the total length to the waist.
The height of the highest point 1" is fixed automatically in its proper relative position
in the act of adjusting the apparatus to the waist measurement.
The measurements across, that is to say the measurements 1 to 2, 3 to 4, 5 to 6,
and 7 to 8 which are most clearly seen in sheet 1 are adjusted by expanding or
contracting the frame by the mechanism behind the dials i. j. k and l. These dials
are marked with numerals corresponding to the range of measurements across.
For example at the foot, the range of measurements are say from 15 to 23 inches as
marked on the dial 1. The dial k at the knee position is similarly marked. The
dial at the hips and the dial at the waist are marked with a wider range of
measurements say 30 to 46 inches as shown. In the case of the dials i. k and la
toothed pinion m is carried behind the dial and is fixed to the spindle which carries
the finger or pointer. In each dial two racks n, n slide in recesses behind the dial and
engage with the pinion mas clearly shown in the enlarged view Fig. 3. The outer
ends of the racks are attached to the collapseable sides of the frame so that as the
pointer and pinion m are turned, the racks and consequently the sides of the frame
are pulled inward or pushed outward, the pointer resting opposite the numerals on
the dial which represent the measurement. The horizontal or approximately
horizontal members or sections of the frame slide within or past one another for
example at a', a³, a³, at and a so as to allow the frame to expand and contract. In
order to make the position of the dial k which corresponds to the knee measurement
correspond properly to the various lengths of leg to which the apparatus may be set,
I mount it upon the collapsing lazy tongs o, the said lazy tongs extending from the
dial to the dial and carrying the dial so that whether the lower frame is pushed
up or pulled down the dial k will always be in the proper relative position between
the dials and 1. The pointer spindle of the dial i carries two toothed pinions, one
to work the two racks n, n and another to work a third rack and link p to push up
and pull down the extreme upper angle 1 of the frame which has a sliding connection
with the frame as clearly shewn. The portion of the frame which carries the scale d
is pushed out or pulled in by a link and double lever q q' the double lever q¹ being
operated by a link 92 from that portion of the frame which is pushed out or pulled in
by the rack n' of the dial i. In conjunction with the dial ; I have shown other means
than the pinion and racks to expand the frame at the hips measurement. In this
instance I employ a disc r in which I cut curved grooves or slots as most clearly
shown at Fig. 2. The curves ss which are exactly similar, expand and contract the
opposite sides of the frame by means of pegs tt which project from the sliding
tubes a into the said curved grooves. The disc r is secured to the pointer spindle
so that when the pointer is turned round the disc also rotates and the pegs are moved
inward or outward by the curved grooves. From the same disc and by means of the

page_text: curved groove u operating a peg v I impart a slower motion to the part a³ which
must not be moved out so quickly as the other sides. As these points, representing
the measurements are moved in or out, the elasticity of the sliding parts and tubes
makes them assume the relative curves which could otherwise only be drawn by a
skilled person. I have now described the means whereby every side of the frame
shown at Fig. 1 (sheet 2) containing the combined outlines represented by A and B
on sheet 1, can be altered in position and curve by automatic means.
In using the apparatus the index g is first set to the length of leg. The index e
is then set to the total length of leg to the waist. The pointer on the dial i is now
set to the measured circumference of waist. The pointer on dial; to circumference
round the hips. The pointer on dial k to circumference at knee and the pointer on
dial to circumference at the foot of the trousers. The apparatus is then laid on the
selected cloth and the correct shape of the front side A (see sheet 1) of the trousers
is marked thereon by running a piece of chalk round the outline of the inner frame.
The apparatus is then laid on another piece of the cloth and the back portion B (see
sheet 1) of the trousers marked by running the chalk round the outline of the
outer frame. The cloth is then cut and the garment made up.
Although I have in the foregoing description referred to my apparatus as applied
to the production of trousers it will be evident that it can with modifications be
applied to the marking out of other articles of wearing apparel. In sheet 3 I have
shown such a modified arrangement of the apparatus for use in marking out waist-
coats to measure. In this instance the outlines of the two different portions of the
waistcoat are kept apart instead of being combined in one frame as in the foregoing
trouser arrangement, but I might combine these outlines also.
Fig. 5 is a view of the frame for marking the outline of the front portion of the
waistcoat. Fig. 6 is a view of the frame for marking out the back of the waistcoat.
These frames are composed of telescopically sliding tubes and wires as in the case of
the trouser apparatus.
The lower part slides toward and from the upper part carrying with it the
marked dial 12 which is or may be connected by lazy tongs to the dial above, the
marked face of which does not appear in the drawings. A scale d and index governs
the adjustment of the lower part of the frame and another scale e and index the
adjustment of the upper part of the frame. In the lower dial 12 the racks 13 and 14
expand and contract the sides of the frame and the same office is performed by the
racks 15 and 16 in connection with the upper dial but in order to thrust the point w
out at a quicker rate than the side x 1 use a spur wheel y having its periphery divided
into two segments of unequal diameter the segment of the larger diameter working
the rack 15 and the smaller diameter, the rack 16. The racks therefore move at
different speeds and effect my object, the proportionately larger size of arm hole
partly formed by the side z requiring this arrangement. The spur wheel y is driven
from a pinion 17 on the pointer spindle, the pinion gearing with internal teeth formed
in the spur wheel as shown at Fig. 5. This arrangement enables the pointer to
make a complete revolution over the face of the dial, so that the whole circumference of
the dial is marked with numerals. A second pinion on the pointer spindle of the
upper dial (shown separately at Fig. 7) works a rack 18 and bell crank lever 19,
whereby the side a' of the frame is lengthened or shortened in correct proportion to
the movements of the other parts of the frame which are operated from the upper
dial.
The description already given of the mode of operating the trouser frame in
sheet 2 will enable the working of the frame shown in Fig. 5 to be understood without
further explanation. In Fig. 6 it will be observed that instead of the lazy tongs used
in Fig. 5 to connect the upper and lower dials, I mount the lower dial 20 on a blade 21
which slides in a sheath 22. Upon this blade I mark numerals so that the blade
performs the duty of the scale d'in Fig. 5; by sliding the blade into or drawing it
out of the sheath the length of the waistcoat can be increased or diminished.
Fig. 6 the racks behind the lower dial 20 work as already described. One of the
racks working behind the upper dial 23 is connected by a link 24 to a double bell
In

page_text: crank lever 25 whereby the upper part of the waistcoat frame is expanded and con-
tracted in a manner which will be easily understood from an inspection of the drawings.
Instead of racks forced apart and drawn inward by revolving pinions as described
I might use a lever in the position of the pointer on the dial and connect the lever by
links with the sides of the frame. Such an arrangement is indicated at Fig. 8 sheet 3.
In this case a lever 26 is pivotted at 27 and links 28 and 29 are connected to the
lever and extend to opposite sides of the frame as in the case of the racks. The
lever 26 acts as a pointer and is moved over numerals representing measurements
marked on
a segment 30 which takes the place of the circular dial. Under this
arrangement differential movements of the links 28 and 29 can easily be obtained by
hinging them nearer to or further from the pivot 27 of the lever 26.
It will be evident that the apparatus herein before described as applicable to the
marking out of trousers and waistcoats can be applied with modifications in the shape,
to the production of other garments.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is :-
(1) The improved apparatus for facilitating the marking out of wearing apparel
and consisting of an adjustable frame comprising the outline of a garment or a portion
of a garment the said frame consisting of tubes or wires or parts sliding telescopically
within or past each other so as to ronder the outline of the frame capable of being
altered and adjusted to the various measurements, substantially as described and
shown.
(2) In apparatus for facilitating the marking out of wearing apparel the collapse-
able frame composed of sliding tubes, wires or parts and capable of being set to
measurements of length by the sections of the frame sliding toward and from each
other, indexes and scales being provided to adjust the parts to ascertained measure-
ments, in combination with the means for antomatically adjusting the frame to
measurements of breadth or circumference by manipulating pointers which indicate
measurements on dials and whereby the expanding and contracting mechanism of the
frame is operated substantially as herein before described and shown.
(3) The apparatus for facilitating the marking out of trousers substantially as
shown and described with reference to sheet 2 of the drawings or any mere
modification thereof.
(4) The apparatus for facilitating the marking out of waistcoats substantially as
herein before described and illustrated on sheet 3 of the drawings or any mere
modification thereof.
Dated this 22nd day of November 1887
DUTTON & FULTON,
1, St. James Square, Manchester,
Agents.