IMPROVEMENTS IN PRODUCING ORNAMENTAL OR TAMBOUR WORK IN THE MANUFACTURE OF GLOVES
Year: 1841

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, EDWARD
NEWTON, of Leicester, Manufacturer, and THOMAS ARCHBOLD, of the same
Place, Machinist, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date at West-
minster, the Fourth day of May, in the fourth year of Her reign, did, for
Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto us, the said Edward
Newton and Thomas Archbold, Her especial licence, full power, sole privilege
and authority, that we, the said Edward Newton and Thomas Archbold, our
exors, admors, and assigns, or such others as we, the said Edward Newton
and Thomas Archbold, our exors, admors, or assigns, should at any time agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times during the term of
years therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within England, Wales, and the Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, our
Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN PRODUCING ORNAMENTAL OR TAMBOUR WORK IN THE
MANUFACTURE OF GLOVES;" in which said Letters Patent is contained a proviso,
that we, the said Edward Newton and Thomas Archbold, or one of us, shall cause
a particular description of the nature of our said Invention, and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be inrolled in Her said Majesty's High Court
of Chancery within six calendar months next and immediately after the date
of the said in part recited Letters Patent, as in and by the same, reference
being thereunto had, will more fully and at large appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, we, the said
Edward Newton and Thomas Archbold, do hereby declare that the nature of

page_text: our Invention, and the manner in which the same is to be performed, are fully
described and ascertained in and by the following statement thereof, reference
being had to the Drawings hereunto annexed; and to the figures and letters
marked thereon (that is to say):-
Our Invention relates to so combining machinery and apparatus that a series
of gloves, or the cut-out fabric or material for gloves, may be suitably held and
have ornamental or tambour work produced thereto. And in order that the
Invention may be most fully understood and readily carried into effect, we
will describe the Drawings hereunto annexed, in the various Figures of which
the same letters are used to indicate the same parts wherever they occur.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.
The nature of each Figure or part of the machine shewn by the Drawings
being written thereon, it will not be necessary to repeat them here, and we will
first describe the machinery for producing tambour or ornamental work to
gloves, which is shewn in the Drawings marked A, and then we will describe
the machinery for producing ornamental or tambour work to the cut-out fabric
or material for gloves, which is shewn in the Drawings marked B. The gloves
which are to be tamboured are to be placed on suitable frames or holders, and
such holders or frames are put into the machine, and the ornamental or
tambour work will be performed by suitable instruments at the same time to
as many gloves as are introduced into the machine. It is important to call
attention to the circumstance, that in producing ornamental or tambour work
to the backs of gloves one loop or stitch at a time by hand (which has been the
means heretofore resorted to for producing similar ornamental work to gloves),
the rows of looped, work do not run parallel to each other, but the two
outer rows of loops continue to converge from their commencement near the
inner ends of the fingers till their completion; hence, in performing similar
work by machinery, provision is required to be made for so holding the
gloves, that the instruments (which make the loops, and which can most
conveniently be caused to work at the same point of action at all times,) may,
when at work in producing the loops or stitches, cause the rows of loops to be
made parallel, the angular portions of the material of the gloves between each
two rows of loops being taken up by the holders or frames, by which the
gloves are held in such manner as to bring those portions of the fabric
or material of the gloves where the rows of stitches or loops are to be
made parallel to each other. We will therefore first describe the holders
or frames A, A, on which the gloves are put and held, in order to their being
worked by the machinery. These frames A, A, being shewn in the Drawings.

page_text: full size, separately, in various views, and in their places in the machine, their
construction will readily be traced, and will require very little description in
order to their being thoroughly understood. The frames or holders A consist
each of a quadrangular frame, which is open below A¹, being the two sides,
where there are dovetail grooves to receive filling piece A², in order to render
the same frame large enough for several sizes of gloves, using filling pieces A²
of various widths, according to the size of the glove, which is drawn on to the
frame A. The under part of each frame or holder A is open; the upper surface
of the frame is covered, excepting at three parallel slits, over which the back of
the glove is held in such manner that the rows of loops or stitches to be pro-
duced shall be in the desired direction, notwithstanding the slits or openings
are parallel. A³ is a projecting plate, having a hole through it at A, and it
is by means of this hole receiving a bolt when in the machine that that end'
of the frame or holder is securely held when producing the ornamental or
tambour work to the glove. On the frame or holder A5 are three clamps,
which are hinged to the upper part of the frame or holder A, as is shewn;
each of these clamps has an opening or slit through it, corresponding with a
slit in the upper part of the frame or holder A, and the portions of fabric which
are held below the slits in the clamps A5 will receive the rows of stitches or
loops produced by suitable instruments. A, A, are two projecting edges or
surfaces, over which the portions of material of the back of the glove which comes
between the rows of loops is held, and as 'these projections A rise gradually
from the points where they commence, near the place where the wrist of the
gloves comes when on the frame A, and are highest at the ends, which come
to the parts of the glove near the inner ends of the fingers, hence the material
of which the glove is made will be held up between those parts where the rows
of loops are to be made, and thus will those parts where the rows of loops
are to be made be held parallel to each other during the time the rows of
loops are making. A are' projections at the upper part of the 'frame or
holder, which incline in the opposite direction to those at A, so that when a
glove has been drawn on to'a' frame A; the back thereof will rest on the pro-
jections A, A7, and when the clamps A' are held close down, as hereafter
described, the portions of the glove to be ornamented will be securely held"
parallel to each other, and the instruments in producing the loops will pass up
through the material of the 'glove, and through the slits or openings in the upper
part of the frame A', and through the slits or openings in the clamps A5.
We will now describe the machinery and apparatus for producing the
ornamental work to a series of gloves at the same time. B, B, shews the
framing of the machinery, the nature of which will readily. be understood on

page_text: examining the various Figures of the Drawings. C is a crank handle, by
which the person working the machine gives motion to the various parts. The
handle C is affixed to the axis D, which turns in suitable bearings at the right-
hand end of the machine, as is shewn. E is an eccentric, affixed on the axis
C, by means of which the rod F causes the lever G to rock on its fulcrum or
axis; His a connecting rod attached at one end by a pin joint to the lever G,
and at the other end by a pin joint to the arm I, affixed at the back of the
spindle bar J, such spindle bar moving on a point at each end, as is clearly
shewn. From the spindle bar J motion is communicated to the bar K, the
bar K being carried by two connecting rods L, such connecting rods being
attached by pin joints to the arms M, affixed to the spindle bar J, and the bar
K has a pivot or neck at each end, which enters bearings at the upper ends of
the connecting rods L, as is clearly shown. The bar K gives motion to the
instruments which work the thread through the material of the glove in order
to produce the ornamental or tambor work thereto. N, N, are a series of
levers which carry the needles which pass the thread through the material
of the glove. Each of these levers is attached at one end to the under side of
the bar K by a screw; the levers N move on an axis O supported in bearings,
as is shewn. P, P, are the needles which pass the thread or silk through the
material of the gloves, and there are six needles to each lever N, whereby each
lever works six rows of loops in the same glove, that is, a double row on the
material, held over each slit formed in the upper part of a frame A, as will be
fully understood when the description herein given is carefully read and the
Drawings attentively considered. Q, Q, are bobbins on which. is wound the
silk or thread to be used in producing the ornamental or tambour work, a thread
from each passing through the eye of a needle, and the direction of the various
threads is shewn; and it may be desirable here to remark, that when the
ends of the silk or threads are not securely fastened in the work, they are
held by suitable apparatus till again fast in the fresh work, for it will be under-
stood that so soon as the instruments have completed the rows of loops the
threads are cut off; hence, it requires that the ends detached from the work should
be held just previous to the cut, and retained secure till the fresh work done
will secure the ends, otherwise were the ends of the threads left free when the
cut is made the work could not be started at the various places in the fresh
quantity of gloves, all which will be fully described hereafter; but we will first
explain the manner of successively forming and holding the loops. The ends of
the levers N which carry the needles enter respectively into a frame A, and
thus work from the inside of the glove, which is a very important arrangement
of the apparatus employed when producing ornamental work on a series of
+

page_text: gloves at the same time by machinery; and the apparatus is so arranged that.
the work commences at the points nearest the inner ends of the fingers of the
gloves, and it will be seen that the fingers of the gloves when the frames A are
in the machine point towards the back of the machine, and the wrists of the
gloves are towards the front of the machine. R is a hook bar, there being a
hook for each needle; these hooks are for the purpose of taking the loops pro-
duced by the passing of the needles through the material of the gloves and their
passing back, and it will readily be understood that a needle in passing through
the material of the glove to its highest extent will carry through the thread or
silk to some height above the surface of the glove, thus producing a loop, but
the silk or thread will lie close to the needle; but on the needle passing back
through the material of the glove the loop of silk or thread will bulge out, so
as to allow a hook to enter and take the. loop as the needle passes back, and
the hook having taken the loop will hold it open, and by a movement to the
bar R. lengthwise the hook will cause the loop on it to be held over the point
at which the needle next passes through the glove, and the next rising of
the needle through the material of the glove, and through the previously
formed loop, will cause the thread or silk composing the previous loop to
be drawn tightly round the stem of the needle, the hook leaving the loop
immediately the needle has safely entered it; thus it will be seen that the
needles in producing the work simply pass through and through the material of
the glove, and the hooks have a swinging motion, by which their points pass
from a position at the back of the needles to the front of the needles, and in
doing so pass at the sides of the needles, and by such swinging motion they
take the loops; then when the needles get out of the way the hooks shog
so as to come directly before the needles, and hold the loops on them in.
such manner, that the needles in coming again through the materials of which
the gloves are made, the needles may, as before stated, pass through the pre-
viously formed loops, then the hooks are moved sideways and swing towards.
the back of the machine, and thus clear themselves of the loops, and again.
assume a position to swing into the fresh loops brought through by the needles,
when the needles have again commenced their descent and opened out the
loops, and the needles being cut away at one side allow of the hooks coming.
readily into the loops. The hook bar R receives its swinging and endway
motion in the following manner :--On the axis D is affixed a cam $ and also
a cam T. The cam S is the means of giving the shoggings of the hook bar
R, and the cam T controls the swinging action of the bar R. The bar R has;
(when not thrown up, as hereafter explained,) at all times a tendency to retain.
the hooks in a position behind the needles in consequence of the spring V,.

page_text: which, having a cord U attached to it, and to the arm W at the back of the
bar R, constantly draws on the upper part of the bar R, so as when free
to cause it to move on its necks or axes at each end, and thus put back the
hooks. At the other end of the spring V is attached the cord ✗, which,
passing over a pulley X', descends, and is attached to the weight Y at the
back and left-hand end of the machine, and so long as these parts remain
in the position, the hook bar will remain in a position to work, by swinging
to and fro, and shogging, as above mentioned; but when the hook bar is
thrown back and the hooks raised out of action, the weight Y will be relieved
from the spring V, and the hook bar R will no longer have the power of the
spring V to cause it to swing forwards; and this relieving of the weight is
performed by means of the hooked rod Z at the left-hand end of the machine;
this rod when put back by the handle, as hereafter explained, takes hold of the
crank lever a moving on an axis at the back of the machine; the other end of
the lever a is attached by a connecting rod to the lever b, and when the rod Z is
drawn towards the front of the machine the lever b will be raised, and with it
the connecting rod c, which will raise the weight Y and release the hook
bar from the pull of the spring V, and the lever 6 being raised causes the
lever d to be acted on through the spring c, which causes the connecting rod and
cord f to act on the hook bar; the cord f passing over a pulley g is attached to
the arm h, affixed at the left-hand end of the hook bar, and when the rod Z is
drawn toward the front of the machine, as hereafter described, the hook bar
will be thrown over and so remain over, with the hooks raised out of the way,
till a fresh quantity of gloves are introduced into the machine. The hook bar
is pressed on by a spring i, which at all times keeps it bearing towards the
right-hand end of the machine, where the lever j gives to it the swinging
notion desired; and, as herein described, this lever j moves with its axis on
points at j', and is acted on by means of the cam T, as will readily be under-
stood on examining the Drawing, and the lever gives the shogging or endway
motion to the hook bar, the lever 1 with its axis moving on points at I, as is,
shewn, there being a guage or set screw & passing through the lever 1, and
acts on the hook bar when the lever is actuated by its cam S, and there is
an arm for supporting the lever off the cam, excepting when the, more
elevated part of the cam comes against the lever and causes it to shog;
the hook bar o, o, is what we call the "carriage," it being the appa-
ratus used for receiving the gloves and for moving, with them progres-
sively during the ornamental work being performed to the gloves. This
carriage consists of the bed plate o, o, on the under surface of which are
affixed the toothed, rack o', o¹, by means of which the carriage is moved

page_text: when the machinery is at work, as will be hereafter explained. The
carriage (by its two raised ends) is supported by the end framings, as is
shewn, there being an angular guide at one end, as is shewn, by which
the carriage is retained correctly when moving towards the back of the
machine. On the upper surface of the plate o, o, are formed or affixed two
projections o²; 2; for receiving each of the holders or frames A; and there
is a hole or slit ; formed through the plate o for the passage of the
projecting plate at one end of each fráme A, as before decsribed,
so that when such projecting plates are all passed through the plate o,
and bolted thereto by the bolts o', the series of frames will all be securely
fixed to the carriage o, and the lever clamps will be pressed on by a
bar, hereafter explained; the bolts o are all affixed to a bar o³, placed at
the under part of the carriage or plate o, and supported by two guide plates,
one at each end of the bar o'; and the bar o' is moved so as to pass the
bolts of into and out of the holes in the projecting plates of the frames or
holders A in the following manner:-0, 0, are two cranked levers, moving on
axes affixed to the under surface of the plate o, one end of each of such
levers of being connected by a pin joint to the bar o, and the other end of
each of the levers of being attached by a pin joint to the bar o', as is shewn.
08 is another lever of a similar character to those shown by o; and is attached to
the bars of and o' in a similar manner, but is lengthened in order to apply the
handle o, by means of which the workman moves the bolts o; and when the
carriage o is filled with frames A, by such handle o he also forces the carriage
into the machine in a' position for commencing the work to the gloves carried
thereby, the carriage coming to such a position as to bring the parts of the
gloves near the inner ends of the fingers over the needles,' the needles being
within the frames' A'; but before forcing the carriage into such position, after
having placed the frames A' therein; the workman causes the clamp levers of
the frames or holders A all to be pressed and securely held down by the
bar o in' the following mannero is a lever handle; moving on an axis
affixed to a plate or bar o hinged to the back of the carriage o, as is shown';
the bar oo is carried by three downward projections or stem's os, which are
turned back at right angles, and pass through slits or slots formed in three
upright' projections or stems o", which are affixed to the plate o¹³, and are
turned towards the front of the machine at their upper ends, and pass through
slits or slots formed in the stems or projections o3; it will therefore be seen
that the bar o may rise or fall parallel to itself, and it is retained secure in
its place by means of screw nuts affixed on the ends of the projections or
stems o13, o, but allowed to move freely. 015 are springs, which tend at all

page_text: times to lift the bar o10, by pressing on the under surface of the stems o¹³, so
that when that bar o¹0 is not pressed down by the inclined planes o on the
bar o¹, the bar o will be at its highest position; the bar o¹ has the inclined
planes, as is shewn, and this bar is received between the projections o¹ and o¹
in such manner as to allow it to be moved between them, in order to bring the
inclined planes o¹ towards the left-hand end of the machine when it is desired
to relieve the bar 010, and towards the right-hand end when it is desired to
press down the bar o¹0 on to the clamp levers of the frames A, and such moving
of the bar o is obtained by means of the lever o" passing through a slot in the
right-hand end of the bar o16; hence, when the upper end of the lever is pressed
towards the right-hand end of the machine it will cause the inclined planes o
to press down the bar oo, and thus retain all the clamp levers of the holders A
secure so long as the lever o" remains in that position; but when the gloves
have been worked, and the carriage o drawn back to its fullest extent, the
lever o is forced towards the left-hand end of the machine, the bar o¹0 will be
raised up by its springs, and thus relieve the clamp levers of the frames or
holders A, and those holders may be removed by withdrawing the bolts o' and
moving back the bars 01, 01, on the hinges or axes, by which the bar o¹ is
attached to the carriage o, by which means the bar o10 will be thrown back out
of the way of the lever clamps of the frames A, and thus allow of the frames
being removed and fresh ones placed in the carriage, and affixed therein by the
bolts o, and the clamps pressed down by the bar o; the carriage is moved
into its position by hand, and then is progressively moved back a space equal
to one stitch at a time by means of the rack o' in the following manner :-p is.
a tappet, which in the revolution of the axis D strikes against the tail of the
lever the nature of which is clearly shown, and this lever, each time it is
struck, moves the ratchet wheel r one tooth by the driver q', the lever q moving
freely on the axis of the ratchet wheel; q' being the driver, which takes into
the ratchet wheel r to drive it, such driver being affixed to the lever q³, the
'nature of which is clearly shewn in the Drawings; ' being a spring, which at
all times has a tendency to draw the driver between the teeth of the ratchet
wheel r; and it will be seen that the lever q³ moves on an axis carried by the
lever such axis being of such a length that it may rest on the stop s, when
the lever q³ is called into requisition for stopping the operation of the driver,
by lifting it out of the wheel r, and also for lifting out the click t from the
ratchet wheel r at the same time, which the lever q³ is enabled to do, by a
projecting pin at its back end coming under the click and raising it out of the
ratchet wheel when the front of the lever q³ is depressed, as hereafter explained.
The axis of the ratchet wheel turns in suitable bearings at each end of the
9,

page_text: machine, as is shewn, and it has two pinions fixed thereon, which take into
and drive the racks o' on the under side of the carriage o, and thus, when the
ornamental work is being performed, will the carriage be moved a short
distance each revolution of the axis D, till the required length of rows of loops
have been produced, when the further progress of the carriage will be stopped
by means of the stop v, at the right-hand end of the machine; this stop v
consists of a simple bolt, which rests on the right-hand end framing behind
the carriage o, and the distance at which the front end of the stop v is
from the back of the carriage at the time of commencing work will govern
the length of the rows of stitches or loops produced; and in order to
allow of various lengths of rows of stitches being performed by the machine,
the front end of the stop v is provided with a plate v¹, which is affixed
to a bolt which slides within the stop v, and the plate v' can be set out from
the end of the stop and retained in any desired position by a pin,
passing through the upper surface of the stop v and into a hole in the
bolt of the plate v¹, the bolt having several holes to allow of the plate v¹ to,
be varied as to its distance from the end of the stop v. The stop has
a projecting plate ³ affixed thereon; this is to allow of a prop lever coming.
under it, in order to lift it out of the way of the carriage when the carriage is
required to be drawn back by hand, in order to remove the gloves which.
been worked, and to apply fresh gloves with frames into the machine. The
stop v is hinged to the lever *, which moves on an axis at the right-hand
end of the machine. At the lower end of the lever is a set or guage screw,
which rests against the lever v, and it is at all times retained to do so by the
spring v. The lever moves on an axis, as shown, its lower end being con-
nected by a pin joint to the back end of the sliding bolt v", which will be slided
towards the front of the machine immediately on the carriage o coming against
the plate of the stop v, the leverage being so arranged that a very slight
movement of the stop v will move the bolt out sufficiently to stop the crank.
handle C, when the person will proceed to work the cutting apparatus for.
cutting of the threads from each of the rows of loops, first causing the threads
to be held by means of apparatus which we will now describe. w is a handle
in the front of the machine, which is affixed to the spindle bar w¹, which
moves on points w² at each end, the stems of such points u acting as the axes
of the levers for working the cutting apparatus, hereafter explained; w³ is a
spring by which the handle w is pressed downwards; on the spindle bar w₁
are affixed two arms w, which move what we call the holding hook bar w,
this bar having a stud on its upper surface for each of the holding hooks w³,
so that when the bar w is moved towards the back of the machine the hooks.

page_text: will also go back towards the back of the machine, and in so going back the
hooks will pass the ornamenting threads just above the needles, the thread
being forced out of its position by the inclined surfaces of the hooks, so that
when the inclined surfaces at the back of the hooks have passed the threads,
the threads will spring into the hooks, and when the hooks are drawn
towards the front of the machine the threads will be securely held in the fol-
lowing manner-x is a bar affixed across the front of the machine; from this
bar proceed projecting brackets a', they being affixed to the bar x, as is shown,
and these brackets a have two plates x2 affixed to them for each holding
hook wo, between which plates the holding hooks move, fitting closely, so that
when the threads are held in the hooks and drawn between the plates a² the
threads will be securely held during the time the cut is made, and also during
the making of two commencing stitches of each row of loops in the gloves next
put into the machine. The ornamenting threads are cut off by means of the
angular blades Y, which are worked in the following manner:-y' are levers
moving on the stems of the points of the spindle bar w¹; as before stated; y²
is a rod connecting the two levers y³, and the form of the levers is clearly
shewn; y³ is a bar moved by the levers y', it having holes thro' which their
upper ends pass. The stems of the cutters are connected to the bar y³ by pro-
jecting studs thereon, passing through holes in the ends of the stems, as is
shown, the cutters being guided correctly when in action by a stud on each of
the upper plates a³, which passes through a slit in one of the cutter stems, as
is clearly shown. y' is a spring, which at all times has a tendency to pull the
upper ends of tlie levers towards the back of the machine, but it is prevented
doing so by a stop, as hereafter explained, and the spring will move the cutting
blades quickly when released from such stop. The Drawings for the most
part show the parts in the position for working a series of gloves, the carriage
being in the machine with frames A and gloves thereon, and the workman will
continue to turn the handle C till it is stopped by the sliding bolt; as described,
when he will lift the handle w, by. which he will put back the thread-holding
hooks, and the threads will spring into them; the putting up the handle will
also move the hooked rod Z at the left-hand end of the machine, and it will
take hold of the cranked lever (a), in order when the handle w is put down to
move the hook bar back, as before explained. The putting up of the handle
will also, by the rod (15) attached to the holding hook bar, cause the lever
prop (16) to raise the stop at the right-hand end of the machine, in order
that the carriage o may be drawn back into the position shewn in the plan
after the handle w has been put down, and the putting up of the handle w will
also, by means of the right-hand end of the holding hook bar coming against

page_text: the lever q³, cause the driver and click of the ratchet wheel r to be put out of
action, the axis of the lever q³ being at this time supported by the stops, the
putting up of the handle w also relieving the prop plate (17), which is retained
from springing in towards the machine by a notch (18) formed in the right-
hand end of the holding hook bar, as shown, there being a spring to the prop
plate, which has at all times a tendency to force it towards the machine, the
prop plate being hinged at its front end to the lever (20), as is shown; and it
will be seen that on the under edge, and at the back end of the prop plate
(17), there is a projection, which acts as a prop to lift the click or catch (19),
which stops the cutter bar from moving till that click or catch is raised. The
click or catch (19) being hinged to the lever (20), allows of the cutter bar
being held thereby when down, but will allow of the cutter bar being drawn
under it when the cutter bar is moved towards the front of the machine into
its present position after having made its cut; hence it will be seen that the
holding hook bar, in going in for the holding hooks to take the threads, will
cause the holding hook bar to release the prop plate, and the prop plate will
spring in towards the lever (20) of the catch (19). The workman will then
put down the handle w, which, by the holding hook bar w' coming against
an inclined plane or surface formed under the prop plate to be slightly lifted,
which will raise the click or catch (19) and release the cutter bar y³, and the
cutter bar with the cutters will be drawn towards the back of the machine;
and the cutter bar, by the inclined surface formed at its right hand; and coming
against the stud (17%) on the prop plate (17), will cause the prop plate to
be moved outward, and be again held out of action by the notch at the right-
hand end of the holding hook bar w', and things will be so held till the parts
are again called into action, as above explained. The carriage may now be
drawn back by the workman, and the gloves and frames A removed, and fresh
one placed in the carriage, as above explained, and the drawing back of the.
carriage will cause the hooked rod Z; at the left-hand end of the machine,.
to leave hold of the cranked lever, owing to the left-hand end of the carriage o
coming against the bent portion of the rod Z, and thereby forcing it. out;
by this means the weight Y will be released, and bring it again to act on
the hook bar R to give it its swinging action, but the book bar will not.
thereby be returned to its working position, as the cord U will be below
the axis, and the hook bar R will be returned: to its working position by
means of the inclined plane (21), affixed on the bar o" of the carriage, when.
the carriage is forced into the machine. The moving back of the carriage
also causes the cutter bar to be returned to its original position by means of
the lever and connecting rod. (22), (23), as will readily be understood on.

page_text: examining the Drawings; and there is a projection (24) at the right-hand end
of the carriage o, which, coming against the lever (16), moves it out of the way,
when the carriage goes back, so that when the carriage o is again forced into
the machine the stop will fall again into a position to stop the carriage,
when the next quantity of work is performed, and the bolt 7 will be
returned back by its spring, when it is relased by the lifting of the stop v to
allow of the passage of the end of the carriage o under it. On examining the
right-hand end of the hook bar R it will be seen that there is a moveable
plate hinged thereto, and which is constantly pressed backwards by a spring;
the object of this arrangement is to get a nice adjustment, by passing a set
screw through such plate, which, pressing against a stop on the hook bar, as
shown, regulates the position of the surface against which the lever j acts in
giving the swinging motion to the hook bar. And it will also be observed
that there is a spring (26) affixed to the lower part of the machine; to this
spring. is attached a cord (27) which is affixed to the axis of the ratchet
wheel, and there is also a weight on the cord to keep it in its place; the
object of this spring and cord is to keep the ratchet wheel correctly to its
work at starting fresh work, and it will be seen, that as the carriage is forced
into the machine by.hand, the cord (27) will be wound on the axis of the
ratchet wheel and call the spring (26) into action, which will keep the ratchet
wheel up to its click or catch at starting, which it might not otherwise be at
starting fresh work; afterwards it will go on working correctly. It has been
stated that the driver and click of the ratchet wheel are put out of motion
when the handle (w) is put up, and remains out of action till the carriage with
fresh gloves to be worked is forced into the machine, when a projecting
piece (28), coming under the tail of the prop (28), releases the lever q³, and
allows of the click and driver to drop into action. The ends of the threads
are held by the holding hook bar during the time of making two stitches of
the commencement of each row of work, and are then relieved by means of a
lever (29), which has an inclined downward projection (30). at its front end,
which rests on a stud affixed to the left-hand side of the arm or lever which
moves the holding hook bar, so that when the lever (29) is raised at its back
end, the inclined surface (30) will cause the holding hook bar to be moved a
short distance towards the back of the machine, which will cause the holding
hooks to release the threads, and allow the ends of the threads thus relieved
to be drawn out of the books by the movement of the carriage o in the pro-
gress of the work, the holding hooks being held open for a sufficient time to
ensure the drawing out of the ends of the threads from the hooks. The back
end of the lever (29) has a spring stop (31), and on the left-hand end of the

page_text: the fabric or material of a glove held between the bars of the apparatus A.
The object of this apparatus is so to hold the fabric or material for a glove,
that, although the rows of stitches are made in parallel lines when the frames A
are in the machine, the fabric or material when taken out of the frame shall
have the rows of loops converging from the points of their commencement near
the inner ends of the fingers to their completion, and this is effected by a frame
A, having the material spread on it when opened out, and when the three
bars are closed down (and securely holding the material of a glove between)
the bars are brought parallel to each other, the portions of fabric between the
rows of loops being taken up or folded out of the way, so as to allow of the
parts where the rows of loops are to be applied coming and remaining parallel
so long as the work is being. performed. In using the frame or apparatus A,
other apparatus is used by us to facilitate the enclosing the back portion of
fabric or material of a glove in such frame A, which it will be desirable here
to describe. B. is a platform or surface of wood, having two side surfaces C
applied thereto, which carry the upper surface D; this upper surface has an
opening formed through it, through which rises the instruments, hereafter ex-
plained. E, E, are angular plates or projections affixed to the surface D, as
is shown; the object of these plates is to open out the side bars A¹, A³, when
the ends of those bars are pressed against them, the middle bar A2 passing
between the two projections. F, F, and G, are studs which act as stops to
the bars; the studs F preventing the bars A', A³, being pressed out into a
wrong position, and the stud G coming into the slit of the outer end of the
bar A, the whole of the bars are held correctly. H is a projection from the
under side of the apparatus, which enters into the recess I, formed in the sur-
face D, and thus is the whole apparatus correctly held for having the material
for a glove spread thereon. J is a plate of metal, moving on an axis at J';
on the upper surface of this plate are affixed two projections K, which are
suitably formed for taking up the angular portions of the material at the back
of a glove piece, which come between the places where rows of looped work
are to be made, hence, when the cut-out material for a glove is spread on the
surface D and over the plate J and its projections K, and shut between the
parts of the bars A1, A2, A3, the portions of material which will come between
the intended rows of looped work will be raised up; and when the bars are
closed together those portions of the material will be between the sides of the
bars, as will readily be understood on examining the Drawings B. The
plate J is raised and lowered in the following manner:-L is a lever moving
on an axis at L'; this lever has a set screw L³ passing through it, by means of
which, when the lever is raised, the plate J will also be raised: M, M; M, are

page_text: three uprights, the outer two having register points at their upper ends, and
the upper ends of the uprights are formed to enter between the slits formed
through the inner ends of the bars A1, A2, A3, as is shewn. N is a spring
catch, by which the lever L is retained up when raised. In using this apparatus,
the holder or frame A is placed on the surface by sliding the outer ends of
the bars A1, A2, A3, so that the centre bar A2 will enter between the inclined
projections E, E, and the other parts are caused to assume their positions, as
above described, the lever L is then raised and supported by the spring catch.
The cut-out material for a gloye is then spread on the surface D, so that the
outer. surface of the back of the glove will be upwards, the register pins
coming correctly, to the positions where the outer rows of loops are to com-
mence; the bar A2 is to be closed and secured by its catch, then the outer
bars A¹, A³, are to be successively closed, previously taking care that the outer.
register points come correctly, and the outer bars A', A³, are to be retained by
their catches; the lever L is then to be released from the spring catch, and
the points and other apparatus below the surface D will descend, when the
apparatus A may be closed together and removed to a machine.
We having already described a machine for the purpose of performing the
work to a series of gloves at the same time, it will not be necessary to shew
or describe a complete machine, according to the variations or modifications
called for, consequent on the different construction of holding apparatus or
frame A, which we use when the cut-out materials for gloves have not been.
made up; we shall simply confine ourselves to a few directions to the workman
that he may vary the parts of the machine to render. the same suitable for
receiving holders or frames A, last described. The machine. is to have a
carriage to contain any convenient number of holders or frames A, and the
fabrick or materials for gloves not included between the bars A', A², A³, are to
be folded close, so as to lie between the holders A. The carriage we form of
an open rectangular frame, consisting of the end bars O, which slide on the
end framings of the machine, in a similar manner to the carriage of the
machine above described. These end bars are combined by three bars 0¹, 0², 0%,
and the carriage is.to be caused, to be moved a distance equal to a space for
one loop at a time, as described in respect to the former carriage; and owing
to the difference of the holders A used in the two machines, we cause the.
carriage to be introduced from the front of the machine, and put the apparatus
for carrying and working the holding hooks and cutting apparatus at the back
of the machine, and the needles we place in a bar across the machine, which
will simply require an up and down motion. The hook bar will require to
have similar motions given to it as are above described in respect to the other

page_text: machine, and we superadd between each pair of hooks of the hook bar the
bent pressing wire X, which, pressing on the material of the glove between
each pair of needles, prevents the material being forced up by the needles;
these pressing wires remain stationary during the time the work is being
performed, but are to be turned up and retained out of the way when the
hook bar is turned out of the way, as described in respect to the other
machine. At the front of the carriage is hinged a bar O', which has a
spring bent fork affixed thereto for each holder A, so that when the bar is
turned up the spring fork secures the holder or frame A by means of the axis
of the catches of the bars, the other end of each frame or holder A being
securely retained by springs 0%, acting or pressing on the bent wire A', affixed
on the bar O2 of the carriage O. A workman keeping in mind these differences,
which are consequent in the different description of holders A used when the
cut-out material is to be held and not a made-up glove, will readily arrange
a machine according to the description above given for working according to
our Invention.
Having thus described the nature of our Invention, and the best means we are
acquainted with for performing the same, we would remark, that in machinery
consisting of so many details it will be evident to the mechanic that many of
the parts may be varied without departing from the general character of the
Invention, the objects of which are suitably to hold a series of gloves, or the
cut-out materials for gloves, that ornamental or tambour work may be produced
to each and all at the same time by mechanical means, which we believe to be
entirely new, in place of producing a single loop at a time by hand.
And we would wish it to be understood that we do not claim any of the
parts in their separate condition, nor do we confine ourselves to the particular
arrangements or combinations shown and described, so long as any of the
peculiar modes of action be retained in employing mechanical parts suitably
for producing ornamental or tambour work to a series of gloves at the same
time.
In conclusion, it only remains to be remarked, that the ends of the threads
which form the rows of loops to a glove after being taken from a machine are
to be fastened by hand in the same manner as if the tambour work had been
done by hand.
In witness whereof, I, the said Thomas Archbold, have hereunto set my
hand seal, this Fourth day of November, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and forty-one.
THOMAS (L.S.) ARCHBOLD.

page_text: AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the Fourth day of November, in
the
year of our Lord 1841, the aforesaid Thomas Archbold came before our
said Lady the Queen in Her Chancery, and acknowledged the Specification
aforesaid, and all and every thing therein contained and specified, in form
above written. And also the Specification aforesaid was stamped according
to the tenor of the Statute made for that purpose.
Inrolled the Fourth day of November, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and forty-one.

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, EDWARD
NEWTON, of Leicester, Manufacturer, and THOMAS ARCHBOLD, of the same
Place, Machinist, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date at West-
minster, the Fourth day of May, in the fourth year of Her reign, did, for
Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto us, the said Edward
Newton and Thomas Archbold, Her especial licence, full power, sole privilege
and authority, that we, the said Edward Newton and Thomas Archbold, our
exors, admors, and assigns, or such others as we, the said Edward Newton
and Thomas Archbold, our exors, admors, or assigns, should at any time agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times during the term of
years therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within England, Wales, and the Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, our
Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN PRODUCING ORNAMENTAL OR TAMBOUR WORK IN THE
MANUFACTURE OF GLOVES;" in which said Letters Patent is contained a proviso,
that we, the said Edward Newton and Thomas Archbold, or one of us, shall cause
a particular description of the nature of our said Invention, and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be inrolled in Her said Majesty's High Court
of Chancery within six calendar months next and immediately after the date
of the said in part recited Letters Patent, as in and by the same, reference
being thereunto had, will more fully and at large appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, we, the said
Edward Newton and Thomas Archbold, do hereby declare that the nature of

page_text: our Invention, and the manner in which the same is to be performed, are fully
described and ascertained in and by the following statement thereof, reference
being had to the Drawings hereunto annexed, and to the figures and letters
marked thereon (that is to say) :-
Our Invention relates to so combining machinery and apparatus that a series
of gloves, or the cut-out fabric or material for gloves, may be suitably held and
have ornamental or tambour work produced thereto. And in order that the
Invention may be most fully understood and readily carried into effect, we
will describe the Drawings hereunto annexed, in the various Figures of which
the same letters are used to indicate the same parts wherever they occur.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.
The nature of each Figure or part of the machine shewn by the Drawings
being written thereon, it will not be necessary to repeat them here, and we will
first describe the machinery for producing tambour or ornamental work to
gloves, which is shewn in the Drawings marked A, and then we will describe
the machinery for producing ornamental or tambour work to the cut-out fabric
or material for gloves, which is shewn in the Drawings marked B. The gloves
which are to be tamboured are to be placed on suitable frames or holders, and
such holders or frames are put into the machine, and the ornamental or
tambour work will be performed by suitable instruments at the same time to
as many gloves as are introduced into the machine. It is important to call
attention to the circumstance, that in producing ornamental or tambour work
to the backs of gloves one loop or stitch at a time by hand (which has been the
means heretofore resorted to for producing similar ornamental work to gloves),
the rows of looped work do not run parallel to each other, but the two
outer rows of loops continue to converge from their commencement near the
inner ends of the fingers till their completion; hence, in performing similar
work by machinery, provision is required to be made for so holding the
gloves, that the instruments (which make the loops, and which can most
conveniently be caused to work at the same point of action at all times,) may,
when at work in producing the loops or stitches, cause the rows of loops to be
made parallel, the angular portions of the material of the gloves between each
two rows of loops being taken up by the holders or frames, by which the
gloves are held in such manner as to bring those portions of the fabric
or material of the gloves where the rows of stitches or loops are to be
made parallel to each other. We will therefore first describe the holders
or frames A, A, on which the gloves are put and held, in order to their being
worked by the machinery. These frames A, A, being shewn in the Drawings.

page_text: full size, separately, in various views, and in their places in the machine, their
construction will readily be traced, and will require very little description in
order to their being thoroughly understood. The frames or holders A consist
each of a quadrangular frame, which is open below A¹, being the two sides,
where there are dovetail grooves to receive filling piece A², in order to render
the same frame large enough for several sizes of gloves, using filling pieces A²
of various widths, according to the size of the glove, which is drawn on to the
frame A. The under part of each frame or holder A is open; the upper surface
of the frame is covered, excepting at three parallel slits, over which the back of
the glove is held in such manner that the rows of loops or stitches to be pro-
duced shall be in the desired direction, notwithstanding the slits or openings
are parallel. A³ is a projecting plate, having a hole through it at A', and it
is by means of this hole receiving a bolt when in the machine that that end
of the frame or holder is securely held when producing the ornamental or
tambour work to the glove. On the frame or holder A5 are three clamps,
which are hinged to the upper part of the frame or holder A, as is shewn ;
each of these clamps has an opening or slit through it, corresponding with a
slit in the upper part of the frame or holder A, and the portions of fabric which
are held below the slits in the clamps A5 will receive the rows of stitches or
loops produced by suitable instruments. Aº, A°, are two projecting edges or
surfaces, over which the portions of material of the back of the glove which comes
between the rows of loops is held, and as these projections A rise gradually
from the points where they commence, near the place where the wrist of the
gloves comes when on the frame A, and are highest at the ends, which come
to the parts of the glove near the inner ends of the fingers, hence the material
of which the glove is made will be held up between those parts where the rows
of loops are to be made, and thus will those parts where the rows of loops
are to be made be held parallel to each other during the time the rows of
loops are making. A are projections at the upper part of the frame or
holder, which incline in the opposite direction to those at A6, so that when a
glove has been drawn on to a frame A, the back thereof will rest on the pro-
jections A, A7, and when the clamps A³ are held close down, as hereafter
described, the portions of the glove to be ornamented will be securely held
parallel to each other, and the instruments in producing the loops will pass up
through the material of the glove, and through the slits or openings in the upper
part of the frame A, and through the slits or openings in the clamps A³.
We will now describe the machinery and apparatus for producing the
ornamental work to a series of gloves at the same time. B, B, shews the
framing of the machinery, the nature of which will readily be understood on
12

page_text: examining the various Figures of the Drawings. C is a crank handle, by
which the person working the machine gives motion to the various parts. The
handle C is affixed to the axis D, which turns in suitable bearings at the right-
hand end of the machine, as is shewn. E is an eccentric, affixed on the axis
C, by means of which the rod F causes the lever G to rock on its fulcrum or
axis; H is a connecting rod attached at one end by a pin joint to the lever G,
and at the other end by a pin joint to the arm I, affixed at the back of the
spindle bar J, such spindle bar moving on a point at each end, as is clearly
shewn. From the spindle bar J motion is communicated to the bar K, the
bar K being carried by two connecting rods L, such connecting rods being
attached by pin joints to the arms M, affixed to the spindle bar J, and the bar
K has a pivot or neck at each end, which enters bearings at the upper ends of
the connecting rods L, as is clearly shown. The bar K gives motion to the
instruments which work the thread through the material of the glove in order
to produce the ornamental or tambor work thereto. N, N, are a series of
levers which carry the needles which pass the thread through the material
of the glove. Each of these levers is attached at one end to the under side of
the bar K by a screw; the levers N move on an axis O supported in bearings,
as is shewn. P, P, are the needles which pass the thread or silk through the
material of the gloves, and there are six needles to each lever N, whereby each
lever works six rows of loops in the same glove, that is, a double row on the
material, held over each slit formed in the upper part of a frame A, as will be
fully understood when the description herein given is carefully read and the
Drawings attentively considered. Q, Q, are bobbins on which is wound the
silk or thread to be used in producing the ornamental or tambour work, a thread
from each passing through the eye of a needle, and the direction of the various
threads is shewn; and it may be desirable here to remark, that when the
ends of the silk or threads are not securely fastened in the work, they are
held by suitable apparatus till again fast in the fresh work, for it will be under-
stood that so soon as the instruments have completed the rows of loops the
threads are cut off; hence, it requires that the ends detached from the work should
be held just previous to the cut, and retained secure till the fresh work done
will secure the ends, otherwise were the ends of the threads left free when the
cut is made the work could not be started at the various places in the fresh
quantity of gloves, all which will be fully described hereafter; but we will first
explain the manner of successively forming and holding the loops. The ends of
the levers N which carry the needles enter respectively into a frame A, and
thus work from the inside of the glove, which is a very important arrangement
of the apparatus employed when producing ornamental work on a series of

page_text: gloves at the same time by machinery; and the apparatus is so arranged that
the work commences at the points nearest the inner ends of the fingers of the
gloves, and it will be seen that the fingers of the gloves when the frames A are
in the machine point towards the back of the machine, and the wrists of tlie
gloves are towards the front of the machine. R is a hook bar, there being a
hook for each needle; these hooks are for the purpose of taking the loops pro-
duced by the passing of the needles through the material of the gloves and their
passing back, and it will readily be understood that a needle in passing through
the material of the glove to its highest extent will carry through the thread or
silk to some height above the surface of the glove, thus producing a loop, but
the silk or thread will lie close to the needle; but on the needle passing back
through the material of the glove the loop of silk or thread will bulge out, so
as to allow a hook to enter and take the loop as the needle passes back, and
the hook having taken the loop will hold it open, and by a movement to the
bar R lengthwise the hook will cause the loop on it to be held over the point
at which the needle next passes through the glove, and the next rising of
the needle through the material of the glove, and through the previously
formed loop, will cause the thread or silk composing the previous loop to
be drawn tightly round the stem of the needle, the hook leaving the loop
immediately the needle has safely entered it; thus it will be seen that the
needles in producing the work simply pass through and through the material of
the glove, and the hooks have a swinging motion, by which their points pass
from a position at the back of the needles to the front of the needles, and in
doing so pass at the sides of the needles, and by such swinging motion they
take the loops; then when the needles get out of the way the hooks shog
so as to come directly before the needles, and hold the loops on them in
such manner, that the needles in coming again through the materials of which
the gloves are made, the needles may, as before stated, pass through the pre-
viously formed loops, then the hooks are moved sideways and swing towards.
the back of the machine, and thus clear themselves of the loops, and again
assume a position to swing into the fresh loops brought through by the needles,
when the needles have again commenced their descent and opened out the
loops, and the needles being cut away at one side allow of the hooks coming
readily into the loops. The hook bar R receives its swinging and endway
motion in the following manner :--On the axis D is affixed a cam S and also
a cam T. The cam S is the means of giving the shoggings of the hook bar
R, and the cam T controls the swinging action of the bar R. The bar R has
(when not thrown up, as hereafter explained,) at all times a tendency to retain
the hooks in a position behind the needles in consequence of the spring V,

page_text: which, having a cord U attached to it, and to the arm W at the back of the
bar R, constantly draws on the upper part of the bar R, so as when free
to cause it to move on its necks or axes at each end, and thus put back the
hooks. At the other end of the spring V is attached the cord X, which,
passing over a pulley X¹, descends, and is attached to the weight Y at the
back and left-hand end of the machine, and so long as these parts remain
in the position, the hook bar will remain in a position to work, by swinging
to and fro, and shogging, as above mentioned; but when the hook bar is
thrown back and the hooks raised out of action, the weight Y will be relieved
from the spring V, and the hook bar R will no longer have the power of the
spring V to cause it to swing forwards; and this relieving of the weight is
performed by means of the hooked rod Z at the left-hand end of the machine;
this rod when put back by the handle, as hereafter explained, takes hold of the
crank lever a moving on an axis at the back of the machine; the other end of
the lever a is attached by a connecting rod to the lever b, and when the rod Z is
drawn towards the front of the machine the lever b will be raised, and with it
the connecting rod c, which will raise the weight Y and release the hook
bar from the pull of the spring V, and the lever 6 being raised causes the
lever d to be acted on through the spring c, which causes the connecting rod and
cord to act on the hook bar; the cord f passing over a pulley g is attached to
the arm h, affixed at the left-hand end of the hook bar, and when the rod Z is
drawn toward the front of the machine, as hereafter described, the hook bar
will be thrown over and so remain over, with the hooks raised out of the way,
till a fresh quantity of gloves are introduced into the machine. The hook bar
is pressed on by a spring i, which at all times keeps it bearing towards the
right-hand end of the machine, where the lever j gives to it the swinging
motion desired; and, as herein described, this lever j moves with its axis on
points at j¹, and is acted on by means of the cam T, as will readily be under-
stood on examining the Drawing, and the lever gives the shogging or endway
motion to the hook bar, the lever with its axis moving on points at A, as is
shewn, there being a guage or set screw passing through the lever l, and
acts on the hook bar when the lever 7 is actuated by its cam S, and there is
an arm ³ for supporting the lever off the cam, excepting when the more
elevated part of the cam comes against the lever / and causes it to shog;
the hook bar o, o, is what we call the "carriage," it being the appa-a
ratus used for receiving the gloves and for moving with them progres-
sively during the ornamental work being performed to the gloves. This
carriage consists of the bed plate o, o, on the under surface of which are
affixed the toothed rack o¹, o¹, by means of which the carriage is moved

page_text: when the machinery is at work, as will be hereafter explained. The
carriage (by its two raised ends) is supported by the end framings, as is
shewn, there being an angular guide at one end, as is shewn, by which
the carriage is retained correctly when moving towards the back of the
5 machine. On the upper surface of the plate o, o, are formed or affixed two
projections 02, 02; for receiving each of the holders or frames A, and there
is a hole or slit 03, formed through the plate o for the passage of the
projecting plate at one end of each frame A, as before decsribed,
so that when such projecting plates are all passed through the plate o,
O and bolted thereto by the bolts 0%, the series of frames will all be securely
fixed to the carriage o, and the lever clamps will be pressed on by a
bar, hereafter explained; the bolts o' are all affixed to a bar o³, placed at
the under part of the carriage or plate o, and supported by two guide plates,
one at each end of the bar o'; and the bar o' is moved so as to pass the
bolts o into and out of the holes in the projecting plates of the frames or
holders A in the following manner:-06, 06; are two cranked levers, moving on
axes affixed to the under surface of the plate o; one end of each of such
levers of being connected by a pin joint to the bar 0%, and the other end of
each of the levers of being attached by a pin joint to the bar o', as is shewn.
08 is another lever of a similar character to those shown by o6; and is attached to
the bars os and o' in a similar manner, but is lengthened in order to apply the
handle o, by means of which the workman moves the bolts of, and when the
carriage o is filled with frames A, by such handle o he also forces the carriage
into the machine in a position for commencing the work to the gloves carried
thereby, the carriage coming to such a position as to bring the parts of the
gloves near the inner ends of the fingers over the needles, the needles being
within the frames A; but before forcing the carriage into such position, after
having placed the frames A therein, the workman causes the clamp levers of
the frames or holders A all to be pressed and securely held down by the
bar o in the following manner:-" is a lever handle, moving on an axis
affixed to a plate or bar o'z, hinged to the back of the carriage o, as is shown;
the bar oo is carried by three downward projections or stems o³, which are
turned back at right angles, and pass through slits or slots formed in three
upright projections or stems o", which are affixed to the plate o¹, and are
turned towards the front of the machine at their upper ends, and pass through
slits or slots formed in the stems or projections o¹³; it will therefore be seen
that the bar o may rise or fall parallel to itself, and it is retained secure in
ts place by means of screw nuts affixed on the ends of the projections or
stems o; o, but allowed to move freely. 01 are springs, which tend at all

page_text: times to lift the bar 010, by pressing on the under surface of the stems o¹³, So
that when that bar o¹0 is not pressed down by the inclined planes o¹ on the
bar o¹, the bar o 10 will be at its highest position; the bar o¹ has the inclined
planes, as is shewn, and this bar is received between the projections 13 and 014
in such manner as to allow it to be moved between them, in order to bring the
inclined planes o¹6 towards the left-hand end of the machine when it is desired
to relieve the bar o¹0, and towards the right-hand end when it is desired to
press down the bar o10 on to the clamp levers of the frames A, and such moving
of the bar o is obtained by means of the lever o" passing through a slot in the
right-hand end of the bar o16; hence, when the upper end of the lever is pressed
towards the right-hand end of the machine it will cause the inclined planes o¹
to press down the bar o¹, and thus retain all the clamp levers of the holders A
secure so long as the lever o" remains in that position; but when the gloves
have been worked, and the carriage o drawn back to its fullest extent, the
lever o¹¹ is forced towards the left-hand end of the machine, the bar oo will be
raised up by its springs, and thus relieve the clamp levers of the frames or
holders A, and those holders may be removed by withdrawing the bolts o' and.
moving back the bars 010, 01, on the hinges or axes, by which the bar o¹ is
attached to the carriage o, by which means the bar o will be thrown back out
of the way of the lever clamps of the frames A, and thus allow of the frames
being removed and fresh ones placed in the carriage, and affixed therein by the
bolts o, and the clamps pressed down by the bar o10; the carriage is moved
into its position by hand, and then is progressively moved back a space equal
to one stitch at a time by means of the rack o' in the following manner:-p is
a tappet, which in the revolution of the axis D strikes against the tail of the
lever q, the nature of which is clearly shown, and this lever, each time it is
struck, moves the ratchet wheel r one tooth by the driver q³, the lever q moving
freely on the axis of the ratchet wheel; q' being the driver, which takes into
the ratchet wheel r to drive it, such driver being affixed to the lever q³, the
'nature of which is clearly shewn in the Drawings; * being a spring, which at
all times has a tendency to draw the driver between the teeth of the ratchet
wheel r; and it will be seen that the lever q³ moves on an axis carried by the
lever 9, such axis being of such a length that it may rest on the stop s, when
the lever is called into requisition for stopping the operation of the driver,
by lifting it out of the wheel r, and also for lifting out the click t from the
ratchet wheel r at the same time, which the lever q³ is enabled to do, by a
projecting pin at its back end coming under the click and raising it out of the
ratchet wheel when the front of the lever qs is depressed, as hereafter explained.
The axis of the ratchet wheel turns in suitable bearings at each end of the

page_text: machine, as is shewn, and it has two pinions fixed thereon, which take into
and drive the racks o¹ on the under side of the carriage o, and thus, when the
ornamental work is being performed, will the carriage be moved a short
distance each revolution of the axis D, till the required length of rows of loops
have been produced, when the further progress of the carriage will be stopped
by means of the stop v, at the right-hand end of the machine; this stop v
consists of a simple bolt, which rests on the right-hand end framing behind
the carriage o, and the distance at which the front end of the stop v is
from the back of the carriage at the time of commencing work will govern
the length of the rows of stitches or loops produced; and in order to
allow of various lengths of rows of stitches being performed by the machine,
the front end of the stop is provided with a plate v¹, which is affixed
to a bolt which slides within the stop v, and the plate v³ can be set out from
the end of the stop and retained in any desired position by a pin v²,
passing through the upper surface of the stop v and into a hole in the
bolt of the plate v³, the bolt having several holes to allow of the plate v¹ to
be varied as to its distance from the end of the stop v. The stop has
a projecting plate v³ affixed thereon; this is to allow of a prop lever coming
under it, in order to lift it out of the way of the carriage when the carriage is
required to be drawn back by hand, in order to remove the gloves which
been worked, and to apply fresh gloves with frames into the machine. The:
stop v is hinged to the lever v', which moves on an axis at the right-hand
end of the machine. At the lower end of the lever is a set or guage screw,
which rests against the lever v6, and it is at all times retained to do so by the
spring v. The lever moves on an axis, as shown, its lower end being con-
nected by a pin joint to the back end of the sliding bolt v', which will be slided
towards the front of the machine immediately on the carriage o coming against
the plate v of the stop v, the leverage being so arranged that a very slight
movement of the stop v will move the bolt v² out sufficiently to stop the crank
handle C, when the person will proceed to work the cutting apparatus for
cutting of the threads from each of the rows of loops, first causing the threads
to be held by means of apparatus which we will now describe. w is a handle
in the front of the machine, which is affixed to the spindle bar w¹, which
moves on points w² at each end, the stems of such points u² acting as the axes
of the levers for working the cutting apparatus, hereafter explained; w³ is a
spring by which the handle w is pressed downwards; on the spindle bar w¹
are affixed two arms w, which move what we call the holding hook bar w³,
this bar having a stud on its upper surface for each of the holding hooks,
so that when the bar w³ is moved towards the back of the machine the hooks
.

page_text: will also go back towards the back of the machine, and in so going back the
hooks will pass the ornamenting threads just above the needles, the thread
being forced out of its position by the inclined surfaces of the hooks, so that
when the inclined surfaces at the back of the hooks have passed the threads,
the threads will spring into the hooks, and when the hooks u are drawn
towards the front of the machine the threads will be securely held in the fol-
lowing manner :-x is a bar affixed across the front of the machine; from this
bar proceed projecting brackets a', they being affixed to the bar x, as is shown,
and these brackets a¹ have two plates x² affixed to them for each holding
hook wo, between which plates the holding hooks move, fitting closely, so that
when the threads are held in the hooks and drawn between the plates x² the
threads will be securely held during the time the cut is made, and also during
the making of two commencing stitches of each row of loops in the gloves next
put into the machine. The ornamenting threads are cut off by means of the
angular blades y, which are worked in the following manner:-y' are levers
moving on the stems of the points of the spindle bar w¹, as before stated; y²
is a rod connecting the two levers y¹, and the form of the levers is clearly
shewn; y³ is a bar moved by the levers y¹, it having holes thro' which their
upper ends pass. The stems of the cutters are connected to the bar y³ by pro-
jecting studs thereon, passing through holes in the ends of the stems, as is
shown, the cutters being guided correctly when in action by a stud on each of
the upper plates 2, which passes through a slit in one of the cutter stems, as
is clearly shown. y' is a spring, which at all times has a tendency to pull the
upper ends of the levers towards the back of the machine, but it is prevented
doing so by a stop, as hereafter explained, and the spring will move the cutting
blades quickly when released from such stop. The Drawings for the most
part show the parts in the position for working a series of gloves, the carriage
being in the machine with frames A and gloves thereon, and the workman will
continue to turn the handle C till it is stopped by the sliding bolt, as described,
when he will lift the handle w, by which he will put back the thread-holding
hooks, and the threads will spring into them; the putting up the handle will
also move the hooked rod Z at the left-hand end of the machine, and it will
take hold of the cranked lever (a), in order when the handle wis put down to
move the hook bar back, as before explained. The putting up of the handle
will also, by the rod (15) attached to the holding hook bar, cause the lever
prop (16) to raise the stop at the right-hand end of the machine, in order
that the carriage o may be drawn back into the position shewn in the plan
after the handle w has been put down, and the putting up of the handle w will
also, by means of the right-hand end of the holding hook bar coming against

page_text: the lever q³, cause the driver and click of the ratchet wheel r to be put out of
action, the axis of the lever q being at this time supported by the stops, the
putting up of the handle w also relieving the prop plate (17), which is retained
from springing in towards the machine by a notch (18) formed in the right-
hand end of the holding hook bar, as shown, there being a spring to the prop
plate, which has at all times a tendency to force it towards the machine, the
prop plate being hinged at its front end to the lever (20), as is shown; and it
will be seen that on the under edge, and at the back end of the prop plate
(17), there is a projection, which acts as a prop to lift the click or catch (19),
which stops the cutter bar from moving till that click or catch is raised. The
click or catch (19) being hinged to the lever (20), allows of the cutter bar
being held thereby when down, but will allow of the cutter bar being drawn
under it when the cutter bar is moved towards the front of the machine into
its present position after having made its cut; hence it will be seen that the
holding hook bar, in going in for the holding hooks to take the threads, will
cause the holding hook bar to release the prop plate, and the prop plate will
spring in towards the lever (20) of the catch (19). The workman will then
put down the handle w, which, by the holding hook bar w coming against
an inclined plane or surface formed under the prop plate to be slightly lifted,
which will raise the click or catch (19) and release the cutter bar y³, and the
cutter bar with the cutters will be drawn towards the back of the machine,
and the cutter bar, by the inclined surface formed at its right hand, and coming
against the stud (17%) on the prop plate (17), will cause the prop plate to
be moved outward, and be again held out of action by the notch at the right-
hand end of the holding hook bar w', and things will be so held till the parts
are again called into action, as above explained. The carriage may now be
drawn back by the workman, and the gloves and frames A removed, and fresh
one placed in the carriage, as above explained, and the drawing back of the
carriage will cause the hooked rod Z, at the left-hand end of the machine,
to leave hold of the cranked lever, owing to the left-hand end of the carriage o
coming against the bent portion of the rod Z, and thereby forcing it out;
by this means the weight Y will be released, and bring it again to act on
the hook bar R to give it its swinging action, but the hook bar will not
thereby be returned to its working position, as the cord U will be below
the axis, and the hook bar R will be returned to its working position by
means of the inclined plane (21), affixed on the bar 010 of the carriage, when
the carriage is forced into the machine.. The moving back of the carriage
also causes the cutter bar to be returned to its original position by means of
he lever and connecting rod (22), (23), as will readily be understood on

page_text: examining the Drawings; and there is a projection (24) at the right-hand end
of the carriage o, which, coming against the lever (16), moves it out of the way,
when the carriage goes back, so that when the carriage o is again forced into
the machine the stop v will fall again into a position to stop the carriage,
when the next quantity of work is performed, and the bolt 7 will be
returned back by its spring, when it is relased by the lifting of the stop v to
allow of the passage of the end of the carriage o under it. On examining the
right-hand end of the hook bar R it will be seen that there is a moveable
plate hinged thereto, and which is constantly pressed backwards by a spring;
the object of this arrangement is to get a nice adjustment, by passing a set
screw through such plate, which, pressing against a stop on the hook bar, as
shown, regulates the position of the surface against which the lever ; acts in
giving the swinging motion to the hook bar. And it will also be observed
that there is a spring (26) affixed to the lower part of the machine; to this
spring. is attached a cord (27) which is affixed to the axis of the ratchet
wheel, and there is also a weight on the cord to keep it in its place; the
object of this spring and cord is to keep the ratchet wheel correctly to its
work at starting fresh work, and it will be seen, that as the carriage is forced
into the machine by hand, the cord (27) will be wound on the axis of the
ratchet wheel and call the spring (26) into action, which will keep the ratchet
wheel up to its click or catch at starting, which it might not otherwise be at
starting fresh work; afterwards it will go on working correctly. It has been
stated that the driver and click of the ratchet wheel are put out of motion
when the handle (w) is put up, and remains out of action till the carriage with
fresh gloves to be worked is forced into the machine, when a projecting
piece (28), coming under the tail of the prop (28*), releases the lever g³, and
allows of the click and driver to drop into action. The ends of the threads
are held by the holding hook bar during the time of making two stitches of
the commencement of each row of work, and are then relieved by means of a
lever (29), which has an inclined downward projection (30) at its front end,
which rests on a stud affixed to the left-hand side of the arm or lever which
moves the holding hook bar, so that when the lever (29) is raised at its back
end, the inclined surface (30) will cause the holding hook bar to be moved a
short distance towards the back of the nfachine, which will cause the holding
hooks to release the threads, and allow the ends of the threads thus relieved
to be drawn out of the hooks by the movement of the carriage o in the pro-
gress of the work, the holding hooks being held open for a sufficient time to
ensure the drawing out of the ends of the threads from the hooks. The back
,end of the lever (29) has a spring stop (31), and on the left-hand end of the

page_text: carriage o is affixed a projecting plate (32), having an incline formed at the
back; hence, when the carriage o is forced into the machine by hand, the
stop (31) will give way, and allow the projecting plate (32) to pass; but on
commencing work, and so soon as two stitches are formed, the inclined end of
the projecting plate (32) will come under the stop (31), and lift that end of
the lever (29), which, as before described, will move the holding hook bar
towards the back of the machine, and the holding hooks will release the
thread, and the holding hook will remain open so long as the stop (31) is on
the plate (32), which is made sufficiently long to ensure the ends of the
threads being drawn out of the hooks.
Having described the machinery used by us in carrying out our Invention
when operating on gloves after they are made up, we will now describe the
apparatus used for holding the cut-out materials for gloves, and we shall
also give such directions as to varying the machinery used as will enable a
workman, having well considered the machinery above described, to construct
such machinery with proper modifications for ornamenting the cut-out material
previous to its being made up into gloves. But we would first remark, that
we consider the best mode of producing ornamental or tambour works in the
manufacture of gloves will be when the gloves are made up and complete, all
but the ornamental part thereof.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS MARKED B.
The nature of the various views being written on the Drawings, it will not be
necessary to repeat them here, and it will be observed that the parts are shewn
full size. A, A, represents the frame or holder for a portion of fabric or mate-
rial suitably cut out for forming a glove. This apparatus consists of three bars,
each having a joint in the middle of its length, so that one half of each bar can
fold on the other half thereof, and hold a portion of the fabric or material for a
glove between them, the two outer bars A¹, A³, being hinged to the eranked
or bent plate A', so as to open out from the centre bar A, and the
This bent plate has hinged
centre bar A2 is affixed to the bent plate A'.
to it three catches A5, which hold the ends of the bars A1, A2, A3, when folded,
and thus is the material for the glove held securely. A is the wire axis
of the catches A³, which facilitates the holding of the frame A in the
machine; A' is a bent portion of the wire, which is affixed in the centre bar A²,
and passes through the outer bars A¹, A³. On the bars A1, A2, A3, are three
pins or projections A8, which enter into holes or recesses in the outer halves of
the bars when those outer halves of the bars are folded down; in each of
the bars is formed a slit or opening, so that the needles used may pass through

page_text: the fabric or material of a glove held between the bars of the apparatus A.
The object of this apparatus is so to hold the fabric or material for a glove,
that, although the rows of stitches are made in parallel lines when the frames A
are in the machine, the fabric or material when taken out of the frame shall
have the rows of loops converging from the points of their commencement near
the inner ends of the fingers to their completion, and this is effected by a frame
A, having the material spread on it when opened out, and when the three
bars are closed down (and securely holding the material of a glove between)
the bars are brought parallel to each other, the portions of fabric between the
rows of loops being taken up or folded out of the way, so as to allow of the
parts where the rows of loops are to be applied coming and remaining parallel
so long as the work is being performed. In using the frame or apparatus A,
other apparatus is used by us to facilitate the enclosing the back portion of
fabric or material of a glove in such frame A, which it will be desirable here
to describe. B is a platform or surface of wood, having two side surfaces C
applied thereto, which carry the upper surface D; this upper surface has an
opening formed through it, through which rises the instruments, hereafter ex-
plained. E, E, are angular plates or projections affixed to the surface D, as
is shown; the object of these plates is to open out the side bars A¹, A³, when
the ends of those bars are pressed against them, the middle bar A² passing
between the two projections. F, F, and G, are studs which act as stops to
the bars; the studs F preventing the bars A¹, A³, being pressed out into a
wrong position, and the stud G coming into the slit of the outer end of the
bar A, the whole of the bars are held correctly. H is a projection from the
under side of the apparatus, which enters into the recess I, formed in the sur-
face D, and thus is the whole apparatus correctly held for having the material
for a glove spread thereon. J is a plate of metal, moving on an axis at J¹;
on the upper surface of this plate are affixed two projections K, which are
suitably formed for taking up the angular portions of the material at the back
of a glove piece, which come between the places where rows of looped work
are to be made, hence, when the cut-out material for a glove is spread on the
surface D and over the plate J and its projections K, and shut between the
parts of the bars A1, A2, A3, the portions of material which will come between
the intended rows of looped work will be raised up, and when the bars are
closed together those portions of the material will be between the sides of the
bars, as will readily be understood on examining the Drawings B. The
plate J is raised and lowered in the following manner:-L is a lever moving
on an axis at L'; this lever has a set screw L' passing through it, by means of
which, when the lever is raised, the plate J will also be raised. M, M; M, are

page_text: three uprights, the outer two having register points at their upper ends, and
the upper ends of the uprights are formed to enter between the slits formed
through the inner ends of the bars A¹, A2, A³, as is shewn. N is a spring
catch, by which the lever L is retained up when raised. In using this apparatus,
the holder or frame A is placed on the surface by sliding the outer ends of
the bars A1, A2, A3, so that the centre bar A2 will enter between the inclined
projections E, E, and the other parts are caused to assume their positions, as
above described, the lever L is then raised and supported by the spring catch.
The cut-out material for a glove is then spread on the surface D, so that the
outer surface of the back of the glove will be upwards, the register pins
coming correctly to the positions where the outer rows of loops are to com-
mence; the bar A2 is to be closed and secured by its catch, then the outer
bars A¹, A³, are to be successively closed, previously taking care that the outer
register points come correctly, and the outer bars A¹, A³, are to be retained by
their catches; the lever L is then to be released from the spring catch, and
the points and other apparatus below the surface D will descend, when the
apparatus A may be closed together and removed to a machine.
We having already described a machine for the purpose of performing the
work to a series of gloves at the same time, it will not be necessary to shew
or describe a complete machine, according to the variations or modifications
called for, consequent on the different construction of holding apparatus or
frame A, which we use when the cut-out materials for gloves have not been
made up; we shall simply confine ourselves to a few directions to the workman
that he may vary the parts of the machine to render the same suitable for
receiving holders or frames A, last described. The machine is to have a
carriage to contain any convenient number of holders or frames A, and the
fabrick or materials for gloves not included between the bars A1, A2, A³, are to
be folded close, so as to lie between the holders A. The carriage we form of
an open rectangular frame, consisting of the end bars O, which slide on the
end framings of the machine, in a similar manner to the carriage of the
machine above described. These end bars are combined by three bars 0¹, 0%, 0%,
and the carriage is to be caused. to be moved a distance equal to a space for
one loop at a time, as described in respect to the former carriage; and owing
to the difference of the holders A used in the two machines, we cause the
carriage to be introduced from the front of the machine, and put the apparatus
for carrying and working the holding hooks and cutting apparatus at the back
of the machine, and the needles we place in a bar across the machine, which
will simply require an up and down motion. The hook bar will require to
have similar motions given to it as are above described in respect to the other

page_text: machine, and we superadd between each pair of hooks of the hook bar the
bent pressing wire X, which, pressing on the material of the glove between
each pair of needles, prevents the material being forced up by the needles;
these pressing wires remain stationary during the time the work is being
performed, but are to be turned up and retained out of the way when the
hook bar is turned out of the way, as described in respect to the other
machine. At the front of the carriage O is hinged a bar 0, which has a
spring bent fork affixed thereto for each holder A, so that when the bar is
turned up the spring fork secures the holder or frame A by means of the axis
of the catches of the bars, the other end of each frame or holder A being
securely retained by springs 0%, acting or pressing on the bent wire A', affixed
on the bar O2 of the carriage O. A workman keeping in mind these differences,
which are consequent in the different description of holders A used when the
cut-out material is to be held and not a made-up glove, will readily arrange
a machine according to the description above given for working according to
our Invention.
Having thus described the nature of our Invention, and the best means we are
acquainted with for performing the same, we would remark, that in machinery
consisting of so many details it will be evident to the mechanic that many of
the parts may be varied without departing from the general character of the
Invention, the objects of which are suitably to hold a series of gloves, or the
cut-out materials for gloves, that ornamental or tambour work may be produced
to each and all at the same time by mechanical means, which we believe to be
entirely new, in place of producing a single loop at a time by hand.
And we would wish it to be understood that we do not claim any of the
parts in their separate condition, nor do we confine ourselves to the particular
arrangements or combinations shown and described, so long as any of the
peculiar modes of action be retained in employing mechanical parts suitably
for producing ornamental or tambour work to a series of gloves at the same
time.
In conclusion, it only remains to be remarked, that the ends of the threads
which form the rows of loops to a glove after being taken from a machine are
to be fastened by hand in the same manner as if the tambour work had been
done by hand.
In witness whereof, I, the said Thomas Archbold, have hereunto set my
hand seal, this Fourth day of November, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and forty-one.
THOMAS (L.s.) ARCHBOLD.

page_text: AND BE IT REMEMBERED. that on the Fourth day of November, in
the year of our Lord 1841, the aforesaid Thomas Archbold came before our
said Lady the Queen in Her Chancery, and acknowledged the Specification
aforesaid, and all and every thing therein contained and specified, in form
above written. And also the Specification aforesaid was stamped according
to the tenor of the Statute made for that purpose.
Inrolled the Fourth day of November, in the year of our Lord One
Inrolled the Fourth day of November, in the year of our Lord One-
thousand eight hundred and forty-one.