A NEW OR IMPROVED DOUBLE COAT
Year: 1874

page_text: PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by Matthew Augustus Soul at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
11th November 1874.- A communication from abroad by Jacob
Brust, of Pesth, in the Kingdom of Hungary.
I, MATTHEW AUGUSTUS SOUL, of No. 101, Leadenhall Street, in the
City of London, Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature of the said
Invention for "A NEW OR IMPROVED DOUBLE COAT," a communication to me
from abroad Jacob Brust, of Pesth, in the Kingdom of Hungary, to
be as follows:
The double coat is made of stuff expressly manufactured for that
purpose, and offers the following great advantages:-
1. In the first instance, this coat forms two different winter garments,
since outside forms a modern great coat (paletôt), whilst the other side
gives a well suited fashionable frock coat; both coats, that is to say,
both sides, of this double coat can be of one and the same colour, or of
different colours, for instance the great coat may be blue, and the frock
coat may be black, or of any other colour.
2. It is often the case that a coat is spoiled through carelessness, or is
singed by cigars or matches, and thus rendered useless. The double coat

page_text: is a sure remedy against this, since by turning the inside coat you have
quite a spotless garment.
3. The stuff or material of the double coat is twice as thick as the
material for an ordinary great coat, therefore will also last twice as long,
and this material is manufactured, on both sides from the finest sheeps' ||
wool, consequently,
4. The double coat is very easy and considerably warmer than a
regular lined great coat, because all other coats are rendered very
heavy and stiff through the lining and other wadding of whatever kind
it may be, so that the burden of such a coat is really oppressive, and the
warmth is really not produced through the coat, but through its weight.
This cannot be the case with the double coat.
5. The coat is very easy and suitable, and the fine soft material suits
the body very well, it is felt very pleasantly in all directions, and
therefore gives a beneficial warmth without causing an oppressive:
burden.
6. Everybody has experienced that the lining of a great coat, be it silk
or cotton, requires continual repair, and is in a very short time rendered
entirely useless; the same with the lining of the sleeves, which even if
it be of the best material, is spoiled in a very short time, and wants
continual repair, thereby causing always expense. With the double coat
there is neither the repair or the expense.
7. The button holes on the double coat are much more durable,
because they are made on both sides in the same firm way, and reversing
the coat now and then they keep so much longer. The buttons are put
on in such a way that the one is sewed on exactly opposite the other,
therefore the one has a hold on the other, which saves the material and
prevents the button from dropping off.
8. The mode of hanging up the double coat is much better than the
usual way, in which a piece of ribbon is sewed on the coat to hang it up,
which is torn to pieces innumerable times, either through the weight of
the coat, but principally by using always one and the same spot, therefore
it very often happens that the hanger is torn away together with the collar.
The hanger of the double coat is of a construction whereby similar
. inconveniences are avoided.
9. The double coat has more pockets than an ordinary great coat.

page_text: 10. Everybody is convinced that the inward parts of the material of a
great coat which are used in the same way as the lining, still remain
quite new whilst the lining, be it silk or cotton, gets entirely ruined,
which shews evidently that the lining cannot stand the wear, because it
s of a different material to the coat, and therefore the lining as well as
he coat are spoiled very soon. The double coat has the advantage that
he upper and under garment remain equally in good wear, both being of
he same material
10. Everybody is convinced that the inward parts of the material of a
great coat which are used in the same way as the lining, still remain
quite new whilst the lining, be it silk or cotton, gets entirely ruined,
which shews evidently that the lining cannot stand the wear, because it
is of a different material to the coat, and therefore the lining as well as
the coat are spoiled very soon. The double coat has the advantage that
the upper and under garment remain equally in good wear, both being of
the same material
By reference to the Drawing accompanying this Provisional Specifi-
cation, the cutting and construction of the double coat will be clearly
understood.
The double coat may be made for winter, as also for coats for the spring
and autumn seasons.
Figure Ia. in the Drawing (points A, B, C, D) is the front part of a
great coat with two rows of buttons. The points E, F, form the width
at the end, and at the same time the upper front part of the frock coat,
the seam of which shews better the finishing part through the pocket
hem which is put running on the same line, and which brings about the
completion by some stitching in that direction.
Figure Ib. with the points F, G, D, H, is a cutting applied to the front
part of the great coat, which represents in the points E, G, C, H, the
skirt of the frock coat together with the final crook on the back.
Figure 2 is the back part of the great coat on the points n, n, n, n, of
which is to be put the cutting F, G, D, H, of the Figure 1b. forming the
fold on the back which at the same time covers a pocket.
Figure 3 is a cutting which is to be put on the place marked n, o, p,
of the Figure 2, so that it forms the regular position of the back in the
frock coat.
Figure 4 is the sleeve which can be made in different ways, with facings
or without them.
Figure 5 is the collar in the under part of which are to be put two
eyes
in order to receive and keep the hanger which takes its hold on these two
eyes; but as a frock coat must be made closer fitting to the body and
altogether straighter than a great coat, which latter one ought to be
larger and easier, this is to be accomplished in the following manner :—
The left-hand front part of that side which forms the frock coat

page_text: (Figures 1a. 1b.) is cut narrower as indicated in the points i, i, on the
pointed line of the above mentioned Figure, that is to say, narrower than
the opposite right-hand front part side, wherefrom it follows that the
buttons on the frock coat form a regular narrower line, the upper collar
of the garment is therefore narrower, and consequently the coat itself is
straighter and better suiting the body; but on the great coat the
afore-mentioned narrower cut front part side forms the under collar, and
therefore the buttons will stand in position suitable according to the
requirements of the coat. The chief advantage of this is, that the
coat is made narrower, but the great coat on the other hand slightly :
wider. The buttons nevertheless are always one upon the other, and the
form of the garment remains unchanged and pleasent to the eye.
A coat made exactly in accordance with these directions forms on one
side a very fashionable great coat, and on the other side a frock coat
which satisfies every requirement.