Improvements in Combined Welt and "Upper" Guides, for Use in Machines for the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes.
Year: 1889

page_text: [Communicated from abroad by GEORGE AMBORN, Junior, of 27, Grove Street,
Pawtucket, Providence, Rhode Island, United States of America, Manufacturer.]
Improvements in Combined Welt and "Upper" Guides, for Use in
Machines for the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes.
1, HENRY HARRIS LAKE, of the firm of Haseltine Lake & Co. Patent Agents,
Southampton Buildings, in the County of Middlesex do hereby declare the nature of
this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
upper
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One object of my invention, is, while attaching welts, to secure the reliable
results in upper" gauging due to the horizontal sliding movement of the
gauge, coupled with those advantages which accrue from having the presser foot and
its shank to carry the welt guide, and the upper guide, and in doing this I avoid those
objections which have been practically encountered in the use of guides as heretofore
organized, and therefore I have for the first time combined with the base of a presser
foot (which forms a part of a welt guide) a rigid laterally projecting block preferably
integral therewith, and said block is provided with or contains one horizontally
movable and adjustable slide, which constitutes one guiding face in the welt guide,
and in said block there is also a second horizontal movable slide, the edge of which
serves as the shoe upper" guide, or guage, and this is controlled by a cam slotted
lever.
I have also now for the first time provided for an important intermediate adjust-
ment of the "upper" guide, by combining therewith, an adjustable stop screw, by means
of which the limit of inward movement may be varied and absolutely determined to
suit all requirements in welt sewing, thus securing desirable results in working upon
shoes of various sizes and styles.
To more particularly describe my invention, I will refer to the accompanying
drawings, in which
Figure 1 is a front elevation of the upper portion of a well known McKay machine,
having my improved combined welt and upper guide applied thereto.
Figure 2 is a front view of a presser foot detached, with my improvements thereon,
and having a welt indicated in position in dotted lines.
Figure 3 is a rear view of the same.
horn."
Figures 4 and 5 are opposite side views of the same, a portion of a welt, a shoe
upper, and an insole, being shown in Figure 4, as when on a
Figures 6 and 7 are respectively top and bottom views thereof.
Figure 8 is a vertical section of the device on line w, Figure 6.
Figure 9 is a horizontal section on line x Figure 4.
Referring to Figure 1, it will be only necessary to refer to the horn A, needle B,
and feed bar C, in a general way, with the understanding that they as well as their
operating mechanism, are as heretofore, and involve no material changes because
of using my invention therewith, although I may with propriety state that the feed bar
shown, has a pair of feed points, and that the presser foot is slotted for the cross-
wise reception of said feed points, but it is to be understood that these features
are not part of the present invention, the combination of such points with a suitable
presser foot and a welt guide being the subject of another application communicated
from abroad by J. Stanley Turner, of Rockland, in the State of Massachusetts,
United States of America. The presser foot D has a shank D', as heretofore, by
which it is securely mounted in an inclined pendant position from a portion of the
frame of the machine, and the feed and needle slot a, a¹, in said foot is of the peculiar
form and arrangement employed in said Turner's welt sewing mechanisın.
At what may be termed the inner side of said slot, and at the underside of the

page_text: presser foot, there is a fixed guiding surface b, and on the underside of the shank
there is a welt tension spring c, and a cross bar d, all as heretofore.
The
From the outer side of the presser foot there is a horizontally-projecting block E,
which is preferably integral with the foot and shank, although it might be made
separately and then securely united to the foot without affecting my improvements,
and this block carries within a suitable recess, a slide serving as a welt guide 6,
which with the surface before referred to constitutes with the presser foot the
welt guiding portion of the device, and this slide or guide 6 is adjustable toward
and from the surface b, and is secured in fixed adjustment by means of the clamp
screw 62 occupying a slot in the block E. This block E carries the "
guide e, which is mounted therein in a specially desirable and effective manner.
upper
gauging surface of this guide e is parallel with the welt guiding surfaces 6 and 1,
but below the latter. The guide e consists of a head e¹ and a cylindrical tail piece e²,
the latter sliding in a longitudinal hole in said block, which at one side is slotted,
from said hole outward as at e³, so that the screws e on the underside of the block
may be relied upon, for so far closing said slot as to compensate for any wear that
may occur between the tail piece and its bearing surfaces, it being important that
the guide e should at all times be free from all liability of derangement as to position.
From the top of the tail piece, and projecting upward through a slot in the block E,
there is a screw stud f, which at its upper end, occupies a curved cam slot, in
a lever g, mounted on and pivoted to the top of said block, so that on swinging
said lever to and fro the guide e will be moved toward or from the presser foot, or
in other words its gauging surface is thereby varied with relation to the welt
guiding surfaces.
With prior devices it is impracticable to maintain that absolutely uniform and
reliable relation between the welt guide and 66 upper" guide which I deem essential
for obtaining perfect results in welt sewing. With these guides organized in
accordance with my invention, the "upper" guide e may be readily varied in its
position, but it is always absolutely rigid with relation to the welt guide in whatever
position it may be set for duty.
I have also devised a povel feature in connection with the "upper" guide e, which
consists in an adjustable stop by which the inward limit of movement by said guide
may be adjustably varied, thus providing within fixed limits for the variable location
of the stitch line with respect of the edge of an insole, it being important in some cases
to have said line located with accuracy quite near the edge of the insole, and in others,
more remote therefrom, and while this is readily accomplished by a movement of the
lever g the operator is liable to move the guide e too far inward, and this I render
impossible, by means of a stop pin h, which projects laterally from the tail piece through
a slot in the block E, and which abuts against the end of a stop screw h! tapped.
into a hole in a stud 2 projecting from the side of the block. It will readily be
seen that by the adjustment of the stop screw, the stitch line can never be rụn
over the edge of the insole nor be located too near said edge, and also that the
location of said line can be absolutely determined at any desired point, between the
two extremes of location which are rendered possible by the capacity of the lever
to move the "upper" guide e, toward and from the welt guide; or in other words
toward and from the horn on which the shoe is supported.
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For illustrating more fully I will refer to the welt indicated in dotted lines in
Figure 2, and also shown in section at in Figure 1, together with a shoe upper k,
and an insole, as when mounted on a horn A in position for uniting the welt,
upper and insole, the welt guiding surfaces and b being clearly indicated, and 5
the location of the "upper "guide el being clearly shown in contact with the shoe
upper" opposite the edge of the insole. It will be readily obvious that my
improvements are not dependent for value upon their use with any special type of
machine capable of uniting welts, insoles, and uppers, it being only necessary that
a horn be employed for supporting the lasted shoe to enable my improved combined 5
welt guide and "upper" guide to be used to good advantage.
"

page_text: Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed as communicated to me by
my foreign correspondent I declare that what I claim is :-
دو
"
First. The combined welt and "upper" guide, consisting of a presser foot, provided
at its base with a rigidly projecting block, containing an adjustable slide which
affords a welt guiding surface co-operating with a fixed welt guiding surface on and
beneath the presser foot, and also contains a second, slide, or
66 upper gauge which
affords a surface for gauging or guiding a boot or shoe during its movement on a
supporting horn by its contact with the " upper opposite the edge of the insole,
and a cam lever mounted on said block for moving said "
upper gauge toward
and from the presser foot and welt guide, substantially as described.
Second. In a combined welt and "upper" guide, the combination with a lever
for moving the upper guide toward and from the welt guide, of an adjustable stop for
variably restricting the movement of said "upper" guide toward the welt guide,"
substantially as described, whereby, while uniting a welt, an insole, and an
6: upper,"
the line of union may be assuredly located at a distance not too near the edge of the
insole.
Dated the 2011
P T1 1000
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
45, Southampton Buildings, London, Agents for the Applicant.