Producing the same.
Year: 1885

page_text: Producing the same.
I, JOHN COXON, of N° 6, Shepperson Street, in the town and county of the town
of Nottingham, Lace Draughtsman, do hereby declare the nature of my invention
for IMPROVEMENTS IN TWIST LACE FABRICS AND APPARATUS FOR PRODUCING THE
SAME, to be as follows:
My improvements are applicable to all kinds of fabrics made in the levers lace
machine.
The main portion of the ground or net I make in the usual way that is with
a full set of bobbin threads, spool threads, beam or gimp threads, warp threads, and
thick threads, but certain portions of the ground or net, I make with only every
other alternate bobbin thread, combined where required with spool threads, beam
or gimp threads, warp threads and thick threads, and over such certain portions,
I employ the other alternate bobbin threads, combined where required with spool
threads, beam or gimp threads, warp threads, and thick threads, with which
I produce semi-detached portions of the pattern in any required shape, such
portions, except where connected with the ground or net standing up quite clear
of such ground or net; the portion of ground or net under the semi-detached
portions, contain any required pattern, having gimp or thick threads.
Where the semi-detached portions of the pattern are required to stand up very
prominent above the main ground or net, I employ a bar the length of the
inachine, supported in brackets secured to the framing, this bar has up and down
movements and back and front movements communicated to it by links and levers
actuated by droppers in a jacquard at one end of the machine, and a spring at the
other end, the bar carries studs upon which pointed needles rock, each needle is
provided with an eye, by which it is connected to a second bar lying below the
first named bar, this second bar has horizontal movements communicated to it by
droppers in a jacquard at one end, and a spring at the opposite end, the second bar
is attached to the upper bar by swinging links. The needles above named are
curved or cranked at their lower end and are placed by the action of the jacquard.
beneath the semi-detached portions before named as they are formed so as to hold
them out to any required extent. I am thus enabled to produce a levers lace, twist
net or ground patterned as required, with portions of such pattern having an
embossed appearance, with the flowers, fruit, leaves or other portions of the
pattern standing clear above the main ground or net.
Thoth do.. of Anvil 100-

page_text: "
Figure 1, shows the arrangement of the threads which I employ when making
the ground work or net, under the partly detached work hereafter described, and
Figure 2 shows the arrangement of the threads, when making the partly detached
work.
My improvements relate to producing an effect on twist lace fabrics so that a
flower, leaf or leaves, or other portions of the pattern stand up quite clear above
the ground or net for the greater portion of the length and width of such flower,
leaf, or other portion of the pattern.
This 1 effect in the following manner for the greater part of the length and width
of the pattern, I employ bobbin threads, gimp threads, and warp threads to make
any mesh required for the ground work in the usual way. But when making the
mesh or ground work under the partly detached flower, leaf, or other portion I
employ the arrangement of threads, shown at Figure 1. The bobbin threads are
shown by eight double lines bracketed together and marked A, the warp threads
are numbered consecutively 1 to 8, and the gimp or thick thread is numbered 9.
Figure 1 shows the arrangement of the threads carried by the back bars under the
raised work, which arrangement I repeat for any width .required; but I do not
confine myself to the mesh shown, as I can make any kind of mesh I like, under
the raised work, either gimping, thick threading, or fancy work. The arrangement
of threads I employ and which I repeat for any width required when making the
partly detached work is shown at Figure 2. The bobbin .threads are shown by
eight double lines bracketed together and marked A, the back warp threads are
numbered 11, 12 and 13, the gimp threads are numbered 14 and 18, the straight
warp or fancy threads are numbered 15, 16 and 17, the thick threads are
numbered 19 and 20, the lacing thread 21, and the front warp threads 22, 23, 24
and 25. By such arrangement of threads above the ground work before described,
I can gimp or figure without losing motion, by crossing on the back motion for
figuring or making net.
Taking any carriage thread I think well from the ground work to figure with by
placing warp threads in front of gimps and thick threads. If I want to raise with
gimp threads, I place part of the warp threads at the back of the gimp threads,
some in between the gimp threads and some in the front of the thick threads and
gimp threads. As I throw the front gimp threads and thick threads on the back
motion, they are only tied in by the warp threads as shown at Figure 2.
By using two gimps alternately, in the raised work and net threads at the
back, middle and front of the thick threads and gimps, I give the raised work the

page_text: appearance of the full guage of the machine although only half the bobbin threads
are employed. But by entirely dispensing with the fancy threads 15, 16 and 17, as
shown at Figure 2, the raised portion or portions will present the appearance of
half guage work when employing one or more gimp threads in the raised portion
or portions.
"
By twisting or platting the front, middle, or back warp threads together, it
raises up the detached work.
The warp threads employed to form such detached portion or portions, are
supplied from independent warp beams, and by lifting part of the weight off such
independent warp threads, I ain enabled to raise such detached portion or portions
to any required height, and when employing gimp threads and thick threads in the
raised portion or portions I place the required number of net of threads in the front
of the gimp and thick threads. By twisting or platting the pillars, by the threads
carried by one or more bars being moved one way in the machine, and the threads
carried by one or more other bars being moved the reverse way at the same time,
the work is raised up.
I can thus make any kind of fancy work upon the raised or partly detached
portion or portions.
Although in Figure 2 only one lacing thread 21 is shown I wish it to be
understood that I do not confine myself to the employment of one such thread, as
where the pattern requires both sides of a cup, bell, flower, or leaf, to be shown
detached from the ground or portion of the pattern under it, I employ where
necessary two or more such lacing threads to hold such partly detached or raised
work in position.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
Invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is
The making of cups, bells, flowers, leaves or other portion or portions of a
pattern, of raised and partly detached portions of fabric upon a twist lace ground
or net or grounds or nets, substantially as described and illustrated in the Drawings
annexed.