IMPROVED MACHINERY FOR SEWING ON BOOT AND SHOE SOLES
Year: 1877

page_text: PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by Thomas Morgan at the Office of the
Commissioners of Patents on the 15th June 1877. (A communication from
abroad by George Valentine Sheffield, Joseph Dart, and John Augustus Sweezy,
of Brooklyn, King's County, and State of New York, United States of America.)
THOMAS MORGAN, Secretary of the Inventors' Patent Right Association, Limited,
21, Cockspur Street, Charing Cross, in the County of Middlesex. 'IMPROVED
MACHINERY FOR SEWING ON BOOT AND SHOE SOLES." (A communication from
abroad by George Valentine Sheffield, Joseph Dart, and John Augustus Sweezy, of
Brooklyn, King's County, and State of New York, United States of America.)
65
'The machinery is so contrived that when the boot or shoe is lasted it will sew the
upper and the insole together on the last, and also at the same time sew on a welt
for the outsole, and then by another operation sew the outsole to the welt, in the
same manner as such work is done by hand, and without removing the last from
the shoe, as it is required to be for sewing the insole and upper together by
machines at present in use, after which the shoe has to be relasted for finishing, which
not only makes unnecessary labour but is injurious to the shoe.
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In working the machine, the insole has two parallel grooves or channels cut in it
obliquely to the surface parallel to each other, the flaps of which are raised up; back to
back. The flap of the groove nearest to the edge of the sole being raised up from the
edge towards the middle, and the other or inner flap being turned towards the outer
flap from the inward direction. The margin of the upper is then laid in the outer
groove with the edge turned up, along the raised flap, and a welt is laid over the upper,
and bent into the groove in the same form as the upper is. The two raised flaps, and
'the part of the upper and the welt, which are along with the outside flap, are
then passed along between a rest and a gripper or presser of the machine, when a
circular awl first punches a hole' from the 'bottom of the outside groove through
the ridge of the insole, between the "two grooves, also through the upper and the
welt, then it goes back, and a circular needle carrying a thread in the eye, near the
point, follows the awl back through the same parts from the other side. When
another needle working along the inner groove, at right angles to the first

page_text: mentioned needle, carries a loop through the loop of the said first needle, and a
shuttle working in a circular path across the grooves passes through the loop of the
second needle locking it, the second needle then draws back, leaving its loop in
the loop of the first needle, which loop is drawn back into the needle hole by the
loop of the first needle thread and quadrupled in said hole inaking a strong fastening,
which is locked on the upper side by the first needle thread, and on the other side
by the shuttle thread. The thread which is thus drawn into the needle hole being
waxed packs in tightly, and is firmly secured by the wax, and thus makes an
exceedingly strong fastening. After the insole is thus sewed on, the flaps are
hammered down after the surplus is trimmed, and the outsole is sewed on to
the welt by another operation, the shoe being turned edgewise to the machine, so
that the welt and the edge of the sole will pass between the rest and the gripper
aforesaid. The awl which punches the hole for the needle is made to feed the work
along the machine by lateral movements imparted to it by a cam and a spring, and
there is a little bearer or support for the awl that is made to go along with the
awl to support it, and prevent the work from springing it. When the work feeds
along the gripper is made to relax its pressure sufficiently to allow the awl to feed it.
The usual arrangements are as follows:-
We use an awl for punching the hole and a needle for carrying the first or needle
thread through the work in the hole made by the awl; also a carrier or needle for
looping the second thread through the first needle thread loop, and a shuttle for
carrying the locking thread through the loop of the needle. The outside flap and
the inside flap of the boot or shoe being turned up to make a groove on the outside,
in which to sew the upper and the welt, and the inside groove for the stitches,
these flaps, and also the upright margins of the upper and the welt, pass between
the double or two-part rest, and the gripper between which they are gripped and
held by the said gripper while the stitch is being made, the gripper being caused
to act powerfully during that time by the action of a cam and lever on a second lever,
and being released by a spring when the work is feeding. The said second lever is
pivoted on a hollow stud, and it has an. incline, on which the roller or pin of the
first mentioned lever acts when the cam presses the arm, having said roller on
it, down. The awl, which first punches the hole when the work is so held, is
attached to an arm of a hollow rocking shaft, working in the hollow stud before
mentioned for one of its bearings, and being moved forward to punch the hole by
a cam, bar, and crank, and back by a spring. This awl is also made to slide laterally
to feed the work by causing the hollow rocking shaft to slide; the said shaft being
thus actuated by an arm, which has a collar working between adjustable collars,
and pushing the shaft forward and backward, the arm being mounted on a rocking
shaft, which is worked by a cam. The collars are adjustable to regulate the length
of the stitches.
To prevent the awl from springing when feeding the work, a part of the double
or two-part rest for, the work is made to move along, and bear against the side of
it, while the elbow form of a stationary part is made to support it at the same time;
the said movable rest is attached to a sliding bar, which is worked by an arm, and
slides on a stationary bar. The awl enters the work, and while the needle is drawing
up the previous stitch, then it shifts forward to the left into the path of the needle
and withdraws, and then returns while the needle is entering and the stitch is
being formed. The needle is attached to a curved bar, which slides in a grooved
plate, and is worked by a bar, cam, and spring. When the needle has carried
the thread through the work, a looper carries the thread through the loop of
the first needle, and the shuttle then carries a thread through the loop of needle
to lock it. The loop of carrier is then caught on a pin in a finger, after the shuttle
has passed through, and held it till the carrier has gone back out of needle loop,
and draws its loop taut ready for being doubled into the work by the needle loop;
then the pin on the finger withdraws, and the needle loop doubles the carrier loop
finita the wast

page_text: The needle for looping the second thread is operated by a rock arm and shaft,
the shuttle is carried by an arm attached to a rock shaft, which is worked by an
arm, rod, and cam, and the loop catcher is operated by a curved slide, a bar, cam,
and spring. This needle is guided by a stud, in a circular way, corresponding with
the sweep of the rock arm. The tension for the first-mentioned needle thread is
produced by rollers which are geared together, and are turned intermittently by a
ratchet and pawl to supply the thread.
Similar tension may be provided for the second needle thread, if desired.