machines for overseaming and barring button-holes
Year: 1886

page_text: We, ALEXANDER ANDERSON, Manager, and ROBERT ANDREW FERGUSON POLLOCK,
Mechanic both of the Singer Manufacturing Company's Works, Kilbowie, Dumbar-
tonshire, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention, which relates to sewing machines for overseaming and barring
button-holes, consists of a combination of parts constituting an organised machine
and of improved devices forming part of said machine, but individually applicable
in other machines, (1) for clamping and stretching the fabric at the point where
the button-hole is to be formed, (2) for feeding the fabric forward and backward
under the needle in stitching or overseaming the edges of the button-hole, (3) for
reciprocating the cloth clamping device at right angles or obliquely to the line of
feeding in order that the needle may pass alternately into the button-hole and into
the edge of the fabric, (4) for laterally shifting the cloth clamp at the termination
of each traverse of the feeding movement to provide for sewing first the one edge
and then the adjoining edge of the button hole (5) for shortening the feeding
movement while the ends of each button hole are being stitched or barred, (6) for
cutting the button hole in the fabric as the stitching proceeds and automatically
stopping the cutting action when the end of the button hole is reached, (7) for
disengaging the operating mechanism when the stitching of each button hole is
complete, and (8) for relieving the tension on the shuttle thread when required for
withdrawing the fabric.
In the organised machine embracing the several features of improvement above
mentioned, the main driving shaft is carried by an overhanging arm over the bed
or table and imparts a vertical reciprocating movement to the needle bar in the
ordinary way. The shuttle and shuttle driver employed are by preference modifi-
cations of those described and illustrated in the Specification of Letters Patent
No. 2813 of 1878, but any other form of oscillating shuttle or a reciprocating or
rotating shuttle and any suitable operating mechanisin may be used. The button
hole is formed in the fabric lengthwise of the bed plate and overhanging arm, (but
it may be formed crosswise), and the feed of the cloth clamp is accordingly to and
fro under the said arm. The cloth clamp itself is composed of two blade spring
prongs or fingers which are loosely connected at the inner end to a stud on a plate
[Price 1

page_text: fitted to slide longitudinally in guides in a lower plate which slides in the transverse
direction, the upper plate forming, with the prongs, the cloth clamp and imparting
the feeding movement while the lower plate imparts the transverse reciprocating
movement to the fabric which brings the button hole and the edge of fabric alter-
nately under the needle. The cloth plate has a shallow groove or depression
formed in its upper face over which the prongs or fingers rest with the fabric
under them while the stitching proceeds; but when out of use the fingers are at
some distance above the cloth plate and are held closer together by a spring. The
under sides of the fingers are. hollowed out near the inner edges, or are serrated to
grasp the fabric. The fingers are held in an inclined or tilted position and when
they are depressed to clamp the fabric (which operation is effected by a cam lever
acting against a spring serving to hold the fingers normally up) they assume the
horizontal position to fit the shallow groove in the cloth plate and are pressed apart
thereby tending to spread and stretch the fabric at the instant of clamping. The
sliding cloth plate is connected by a link and an adjustable screw pin to a slot in
one arm of a bell-crank whose other arm has a stud and roller on it fitted in a cam
groove in the lower face of a feeding wheel or disc centred on a vertical stud on
the bed plate. The cam groove is suitably formed to effect the traverse of the
cloth plate to and fro during each complete revolution, the extent of traverse to
form any desired length of button hole being regulated by the position of the
connecting pin in the slot of the bell crank. The feed wheel or cam disc is
operated intermittently and always in the same direction by a feed lever arm and
differential gripper the feed lever arm being conveniently operated from a cam on
the main driving shaft through a lever jointed to an upright bracket on the bed
plate, or from the needle bar by means of a connecting rod attached to the top or
under side thereof and acting through a long lever centred upon a short spindle
fitted in the upright bracket, the lever being fitted loosely on the spindle and com-
municating motion thereto through an arm keyed thereon and having on it stop
pieces between which a slight amount of play is allowed for the lever in order that
the needle bar may rise far enough to bring the needle out of the work before it acts
on the feed lever. The extent of movement of the feed lever is controlled by an
adjustable stop plate which limits its backward traverse, and by this means the
feeding movement of the cloth plate, and consequently the proximity to each other
of the stitches, is regulated.
The reciprocating movement of the lower plate which carries the cloth plate is
effected by a lever jointed by a link to a lateral extension forming one of two
guides for the plate such lever being jointed near its centre to the base plate over
which it lies horizontally. This lever is connected at its opposite end to a second
lever by a screw in a slot permitting of adjustment in order to vary the extent of
the reciprocatory movement and on a projection on the second lever is fitted an
antifriction roller which is acted on by a rotating cam and thereby communicates a
vibrating or oscillating movement to the lever which reciprocates the lower cloth
plate. The cam is actuated through a ratchet and pawl by the main driving lever
which is operated by a cam on the main driving shaft. The cam is carried by a
stud or pin on a bell-crank lever one end of which is jointed to the pin on which
oscillates the vibrating lever acting on the lower cloth plate, while the opposite
end has a roller on it fitting in a cam groove in the feed wheel. This groove
extends round the disc in two concentric semicircular sections at different distances
from the axis of the wheel, but meeting together to form a continuous groove.
Owing to this formation of the cam groove the link or lever and the cam stud are
maintained in one position during one semi-revolution of the wheel and they are
then shifted and retained in the new position during the next semi-revolution.
The action of the cam groove on the link and cam stud is to shift the lower cloth
plate laterally and bring first the one edge and then the other edge of the button
hole under the sewing needle and the groove is so formed as to time the shift to
take place at the end of the traverse of the feed. On the link and on the feeding
lever, stop pieces are formed which come opposite each other as the link is shifted

page_text: at the end of each concentric section of the groove and these stops by limiting the
backward, traverse of the feeding lever shorten the feeding movement while the
lateral shifting of the cloth plate takes place and the stitching operation being
uninterrupted a series of stitches is formed at the ends of the button holes serving
to barr them.
The cutting of the fabric to form the button hole may be effected before or after
stitching in the ordinary way but we prefer to cut the fabric as the stitching
proceeds and in advance of the needle. For that purpose a V shaped cutter is
employed and is carried on au arm or finger projecting forward from the cloth
clamp to which it is jointed and with which it moves. On this arm is jointed or
otherwise fitted a movable block which at the beginning of the stitching is pushed
forward under the needle bar and is thereby pressed down at each reciprocation so
that the cutting blade enters the fabric and slits it. To the upper end of the.
movable block is jointed a link whose opposite end has in it a slot adjustable as to
length, passing over a stationary stad or pin and as the cloth clamp moves forward
during the stitching operation the pin engaging the end of the slot in the link
holds back the movable block out of the path of the reciprocating needle bar and
prevents it being acted on when a sufficient length of slit has been cut to form the
button hole. During the remainder of the forward movement and during the
return movement of the cloth clamp the block remains out of contact with
the needle bar, the slot in the connecting link being of such length that the
stationary pin does not act to tilt back said block which is pressed over by hand
when the stitching of a fresh button hole is commenced.
In order that the operating mechanism may be thrown out of gear on the
completion of the stitching of each button hole an arrangement is provided for
disengaging a driving clutch which connects the usual belt pulley to the main
driving shaft of the machine. This disengaging device consists of a bell-crank
lever jointed to a bracket on the table of the machine the upper end of one arm of
which engages said clutch while the end of the other arm which lies horizontally
rests on the feed wheel. On the upper face of the feed wheel is formed or fitted
an inclined cam piece which at each revolution of the feed wheel, that is on
the completion of the stitching of each button hole, comes under the inner end of
the horizontal arm of the bell-crank and throws the clutch out of gear. The
bearing end of the bell-crank arm is jointed or is formed with a spring piece so
that it may be pressed over the inclined cam in restarting the machine.
In order to permit of the easy withdrawal of the fabric after the completion of
the stitching of each button-hole without unduly straining the shuttle thread a
short rod is or may be fitted parallel to the shuttle driver shaft on the underside of
the machine and is provided at its end with a curved piece which on the rod
being moved longitudinally presses on an arm of a bell-crank thereby slightly
opening the cover of the shuttle which retains the spool in position and controls
the tension and allowing the thread to be freely drawn off.
The curved piece on the end of the rod is so formed that it only acts when the
needle is out of the fabric. A lever which is conveniently placed to be operated
by the knee of the attendant is connected by a rod shaft and link to the shuttle
opening rod which is thereby pressed against the power of a spring serving to
retain it normally out of the acting position.

page_text: Improvements in Sewing Machines for Overseaming
Button-holes.
We, ALEXANDER ANDERSON, Manager, and ROBERT ANDREW FERGUSON POLLOCK,
Mechanic, both of the Singer Manufacturing Company's Works, Kilbowie, Dum-
bartonshire, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement:-
Our invention, which relates to sewing machines for overseaming and barring
button-holes, consists of a combination of parts constituting an organised machine
and of improved devices forming part of said machine, (1) for clamping and
stretching the fabric at the point where the button hole is to be formed, (2) for
⚫feeding the fabric forward and backward under the needle in stitching or over-
seaming the edges of the button-hole, (3) for réciprocating the cloth clamping
device at right angles or obliquely to the line of feeding in order that the needle
may pass alternately into the button-hole and into the edge of the fabric, (4) for
laterally shifting the cloth clamp at the termination of each traverse of the feeding
movement to provide for sewing first the one edge and then the adjoining edge of
the button-hole (5) for shortening the feeding movement while the ends of each
button-hole are being stitched or barred, and (6) for cutting the button-hole in the
fabric as the stitching proceeds and automatically stopping the cutting action when
the end of the button-hole is reached.
22
In the organised machine which is represented in side elevation at figure 1, in
end elevation at figure 2, in sectional plan at figure 3, and in reverse side elevation
at figure 4, of the accompanying drawings and which embraces the several features
of improvement above mentioned, the main driving shaft A, is carried by an
overhanging arm B, over the bed or table C, and imparts a vertical_reciprocating
movement to the needle bar D, in the ordinary way. The shuttle E, and shuttle
driver E, employed are by preference modifications of those described and illus-
trated in the Specification of Letters Patent No. 2813 of 1878, and are driven
by a cranked rock shaft E, and connecting rod E³, from the main shaft A, but any
other form of oscillating shuttle or a reciprocating or rotating shuttle and any
suitable operating mechanism may be used. The button bole is formed in the
fabric, lengthwise of the bed plate and overhanging arm (but it may be formed
crosswise) and the feed of the cloth clamp is accordingly to and fro under the
said arm. The cloth clamp itself as clearly shown in plan, and side, and end
elevations at figures 5, 6 and 7, is composed of two blade spring prongs or
fingers f. f, which are loosely connected at the inner end to a stud f¹, on a plate f³,
fitted to slide longitudinally in guides f³, in a lower plate F, which slides in the
transverse direction, the upper plate f forming, with the prongs f, f, the cloth
clamp and imparting the feeding movement while the lower plate F, imparts the
transverse reciprocating movement to the fabric which brings the button hole and
the edge of fabric alternately under the needle. The cloth plate f³, has a shallow
groove or depression formed in its upper face over which the prongs or fingers f. f,

page_text: rest as indicated at figures 1, 2, 3 and 4, with the fabric under them while the
stitching proceeds; but when out of use the fingers are at some distance above the
cloth plate as indicated at figures 5, 6 and 7, and are held closer together by a
spring f, which together with a retaining pin f³, secures them to the stud f¹.
The under sides of the fingers f, f, are hollowed out near the inner edges, (or they
may be serrated) to grasp the fabric. The fingers are held in an inclined or tilted
position and when they are depressed to clamp the fabric (which operation is
effected by a cam lever G, jointed to a stud g, the said cam acting against a
spring g', which serves to hold the fingers normally up) they assume the horizontal
position to fit the shallow groove in the cloth plate f and are pressed apart by the
action of the cam G, thereby tending to spread and stretch the fabric at the instant
of clamping. The sliding cloth plate f', is connected by a link h and an adjustable
screw pin h¹ to a slot in one armi H, of a bell-crank whose other arm H¹ has a stud
and roller h³ on it fitted in a cam groove i in the lower face of a feeding wheel or
disc I, centred on a vertical stud ¹ on the bed plate C. The cam groove i is
suitably formed to effect the traverse of the cloth plate f* to and fro during each
complete revolution, the extent of traverse to form any desired length of button
hole being regulated by the position of the connecting pin h¹ in the slot of the bell
crank H, H. The feed wheel or cam disc I, is operated intermittently and always
in the same direction by a feed lever arm J, and differential gripper J¹ the feed
lever arm being conveniently operated from a cam K, on the main driving shaft
through a lever K¹, jointed to an upright bracket K³, on the bed plate C, and
a hooked link k jointed to the lever K, and engaging the arm J, and exerting a
pulling action on it against the power of a spring k¹. The extent of movement of
the feed lever J, is controlled by an adjustable stop plate or hooked link J³,
which limits its backward traverse, and by this means the feeding movement of
the cloth plate, and consequently the proximity to each other of the stitches is
regulated.
At the termination of each revolution of the feed wheel I, that is, upon com-
pletion of the sewing of each button hole, a stud j on a spring j¹, engages with the
feed lever J, and prevents further feeding movement until the spring j³, is dis-
engaged by hand.
The reciprocating movement of the lower plate F, which carries the cloth
plate f, is effected by a lever L, jointed to a lateral extension F¹, forming one of
two guides F¹, F, for the plate such lever L, being jointed by a pin l, near its
centre to a link O jointed to the base plate C, over which it lies horizontally.
This lever L, is connected at its opposite end to a second lever L¹, by a screw l¹ in
a slot, permitting of adjustment in order to vary the extent of the recipro-
catory movement, and on a projection on the second lever L³, is fitted an antifriction
roller, which is acted on by a rotating cam M, and thereby communicates a
vibrating or oscillating movement to the lever L, which reciprocates the lower
cloth plate F. The cam M, is actuated through a ratchet N, and pawl n, by the
main driving lever K¹, which is operated by the cam K, on the main driving
shaft. The link O, carrying the pin 7 on which oscillates the vibrating lever L,
acting on the lower cloth plate F, has jointed to it a sliding link 0¹, having
a roller on it fitting in a cam groove o, in the feed wheel I. This groove extends
round the disc in two concentric semicircular sections at different distances from
the axis of the wheel but meeting together to form a continuous groove as
indicated by the inverted plan of the feed wheel at figure 8. Owing to this
formation of the cam groove, the links or levers 0, 0, are maintained in one
position during one semi-revolution of the wheel I, and they are then shifted and
retained in the new position during the next semi-revolution.. The action of the
cam groove o on the links O, O¹, is to shift the centre pin on which the lever L,
oscillates and thus shift the lower cloth plate laterally and bring first the one
edge and then the other edge of the button hole under the sewing needle d, and
the groove o, is so formed as to time the ahift to take place at the end of each
traverse of the feed. On the sliding link O¹, and on the lower side of the feeding

page_text: lever J, stop pieces p, are formed which come opposite each other as the link is
shifted at the end of each concentric section of the groove o, and these stops
by limiting the backward traverse of the feeding lever J, shorten the feeding
movement while the lateral shifting of the cloth plate F takes place, and the
stitching operation being uninterrupted a series of stitches is formed at the ends
of the button holes serving to bar them.
The cutting of the fabric to form the button hole may be effected before or after
stitching in the ordinary way, but we prefer to cut the fabric as the stitching
proceeds and in advance of the needle. For that purpose a V-shaped or inclined
blade or cutter Q, is employed and is carried on an arm or finger R, projecting
forward from the cloth clamp F, to a stud R¹, on which it is jointed and with
which it moves.
On this arm R, is jointed or otherwise fitted a movable block S,
which at the beginning of the stitching is pushed forward under the needle
bar D, and is thereby pressed down at each reciprocation of the said needle bar
so that the cutting blade Q, enters the fabric and slits it. To the upper end of the
movable blocks S, is, jointed one end of a link T, whose opposite end has a slot t
in it passing over a fixed stud or pin 1, carried by the stud f' on the sliding cloth
plate f, and as the plate f2 of the cloth clamp moves forward during the stitching
operation the pin t¹ engaging the end of the slot t in the link T, holds back the
moveable block S, out of the path of the reciprocating needle bar D, and prevents
it being acted on when a sufficient length of slit has been cut to form the button
hole. During the remainder of the forward movement and during the return
movement of the plate f³, of the cloth clamp, the block S, remains out of contact
with the needle bar, the slot in the connecting link being of such length that the
fixed pin t¹ does not act to tilt back said block which is pressed over by hand
when the stitching of a fresh button hole is commenced. To provide for cutting
button holes of different sizes the length of the slot t may be made variable or as
shown in figures 5, 6 and 7, an adjustable pin t may be fitted in the fixed pin t
to act in conjunction with a stop piece t³ on the end of the link T, as a means of
limiting the forward movement of said link.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what
we claim is :-
1. The combination of parts constituting the improved sewing machine for
overseaming button holes, substantially as described.
2. In combination with the sliding plate f*, the fingers f. f, constructed and
operated to clamp and stretch the fabric, substantially as set forth.
3. A cloth clamp consisting of a reciprocating plate F, a feed plate f*, and
clamping fingers f, f, operating substantially as described.
4. In combination' the sliding plate fa carrying cloth clamping devices, the bell
crank H, H¹, adjustably connected thereto, and the intermittently rotated feed
wheel I, acting through said bell crank to feed back and forth said sliding cloth
plate, substantially as described.
5. In combination the plate F of the cloth clamp, the levers L, L, and actuating
cam M, adapted to impart reciprocatory movement to said plate, substantially as
set forth.
6. The combination of the sliding plate and bell crank H, H³, operated by
the feed wheel I, with the reciprocating plate F, levers L, L, and actuating cam M,
substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
7. In combination with the levers L, L, and actuating cam M, the links 0, 0¹,
and the feed wheel I, having in it a groove acting through said links on the lever L,
substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
8. In conjunction with the link O¹ and the feed lever J, the stops p, acting
substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
9. In a button hole sewing machine, a cutter carried on the cloth clamp and
. provided with devices whereby it is actuated from the needle bar to cut the fabric

page_text: as the sewing proceeds and is automatically put out of action when the requisite
length of button hole is cut as set forth.
10. The combination of the arm R, carrying the cutting blade Q, the movable
block S, and slotted link T, adapted to tilt or move said block S, out of the path
of movement of the needle bar D, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
Dated this Seventeenth day of November 1886.
CRUIKSHANK & FAIRWEATHER,
62, Saint Vincent Street, Glasgow,
Agenta.