IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF CRINOLINES, DRESSES, MANTLES, AND OTHER SUCH LIKE ARTICLES OF WEARING APPAREL
Year: 1864

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Friederich-Kreuz, of-Barmen, in the Kingdom of
Prussia, and of Cannon Street, in the City of Loudon, for the Invention
of IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF CRINOLINES, DRESSES, MANTLES,
AND OTHER SUCH LIKE ARTICLES OF WEARING APPAREL,"
f
i
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Friederich Kreuz at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
19th August 1864.
I, FRIEDERICH KREUZ, of Barmen, in the Kingdom of Prussia,and of Cannon
Street, in the City of London, do hereby declare the nature of the said
Invention for IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF CRINOLINES, DRESSES
MANTLES, AND OTHER SUCH LIKE ARTICLES OF WEARING APPAREL," to be. as
follows.
! #
This Invention relates to certain improvements in the manufacture of
crinolines, dresses, and mantles, and other articles of wearing apparel such as
petticoats or skirts, whereby these articles are made in one piece and of the
requisite taper or conical form.iu a loom, the pattern or stripe also consisting
of a tapering outline, the widest part being at the lowest part of the crinoline,
dress, skirt, or mantle. :
:
"
.1 propose to apply, a warp of crinoline, silk, worsted, cotton, or other
material printed or in striped colors, such warp being adjusted in a tubular or
[Price-8d.] -

page_text: circular loom, and in a taper or decreasing form. I use a variety of shuttles
successively in order to produce different colors and materials in the fabric,
especially in the more conspicuous portions thereof; and in weaving crino-
lines I apply at certain intervals double shuttles in order to weave a double
thickness of fabric, so as to form a tube or space through which the steel or
cane hoops may be passed or run. in, the ends of the hoops being fastened
together by metal clamps or other fastenings. The crinoline, dress, or skirt
may be woven so as to be seamless, or it may be united by bringing the two
borders together and sewing them.
By this Invention the pletes, folds, or gathers hitherto necessary in these
articles are dispensed with, and the article, with its pattern, is made to assume
the requisite tapering form. Mantles may also be made on the same
principle.
SPECIFICATION filed in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent
...
and of an Order of the Lord Chancellor, by the said Friederich Kreuz
in the Great Seal. Patent Office on the 18th March 1865.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, FRIEDERICH
KREUZ, of Barmen, in the Kingdom of Prussia, and of Cannon Street, in the
City of London, send greeting -
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Nineteenth day of August, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-four, in the twenty-eighth year of
Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant
unto me, the said Friederich Kreuz, Her special licence that I, the said
Friederich Kreuz, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others
as I, the said
-executors; administrators, and assigns,
should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and
at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and law-
fully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of
Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an
Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF CRINOLINES, DRESSES,
MANTLES, AND OTHER SUCH LIKE ARTICLES OF WEARING APPAREL," upon the
condition (amongst others) that I, the said Friederich Kreuz, my executors
or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of
their hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature
of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed,

page_text: nd cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six
alendar months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters
Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Friederich Kreuz, do hereby declare
he nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
ollowing statement :-
This Invention relates to certain improvements in the manufacture of
crinolines, dresses, and mantles, and other articles of wearing apparel, such as
petticoats or skirts, whereby these articles are made in one piece and of the
requisite taper or conical form in a loom, the pattern or stripe also consisting
of a tapering outline, the widest part being at the lowest part of the crinoline,
dress, skirt, or mantle.
In order that the said Invention may be perfectly understood by all con-
versant with the art of weaving, I proceed to describe the necessary portions
of the loom and jacquard, and the method of weaving. It is necessary to
state that the shuttle travels completely across the warp and back at each
shoot, but that separate portions of such warp are successively brought into
action by the jacquard and harness, so that the shoots of the weft thread
gradually enter the entire width of the warp, and thus form a fabric which
tapers in pattern, and is wound off by conical take-off rollers instead of cylin-
drical rollers, as in ordinary loons. The fabric when delivered from the loom
assumes a curvilinear outline, and if continued to a sufficient length would
form a complete circle or ring. It is cut into proper lengths and the edges
sewn together, so that there is only one seam, and the articles need not be
pleted on account of its tapering form; the pockets for the hoops are also
formed in the loom.
Fig. 1 of the accompanying Drawings represent as much of the loom as is
necessary. a, a, are the standards and frame of the loom; b, the beat-up or
batten with comb or reed; c, c, the fore and aft conical drums or rollers, the
front roller having a regulator as in ordinary take-off rollers; d, a friction
roller for the warp threads; e, frame for the reels; ff, two supports for the
same; g, receptacle for the finished stuff.
The standards for the frame are 5 feet 8 inches long, aud are placed 5 feet
2 inches from each other longitudinally, and fixed by dovetailed beams. The
breadth of the machine is 4 feet 4 inches. In the middle of the front and
rear standards the bearings for the fore and aft conical rollers are set.. The
comb-and-batten-are-arranged-as usual, but with 1,082-wires.

page_text: The front conical take-off roller (Fig. 4) is (exclusive of the axle) 3 feet
8 inches long; the greatest circumference 2 feet 2 inches; the least 6 inches.
The rear conical drum (Fig. 5) is also 3 feet 8 inches long; its largest cir-
cumference is 12 inches, is smallest only 4 inches; thus it may be taken as
the normal proportion of the shape or taper of both rollers, that the smallest
diameter is to the larger as 1 to 4. On the widest end of the front roller a
regulatoris applied, as is well understood in other looms, to regulate the speed
of the take-off. On the widest end of the rear roller there is a cylindrical
ring or piece of sheet metal a, 3 inches broad, as shewn in Fig. 5, over which
a rope is passed with a weight suspended to exercise tension on the warp.
Both rollers are covered with emery paper, so that the rear drum shall not
deliver more than the front drum draws out as finished fabric, and that the
stuff shall not as usual be wound around the drum, but only touch three-
fourths of its circumference; it is then sent on by means of a roller which is
below the drum. The two conical rollers must be horizontal in the
standards.
The friction roller underneath the warp reel frame is for the purpose of
guiding the warp threads on to the rear roller, which has its surface studied
with steel pins of an inch apart. The reel frame has 6 compartments, in
each of which there are 14 reels distributed as follows:-For the first 3 pockets
or channels for the steel 4 each, for the other 6 pockets 3 each, and for each
of the taffeta strips 6. The reels for the ockets are in the two lower com-
partments, and those for the taffetas in the 4 upper ones.
Each reel has on
the top end a groove, over which a weighted string passes in order to prevent
undue slack of the warp threads. The two supports are 2 inches broad,
1 inches thick, holding the warp reel frame to the standards.
In Fig. 2 the jacquard a is shewn with the perforated jacquard harness
board c with cords; d and e, lifting wires attached to harness, each lifting
wire raising a number of warp threads by the harness f. The warp threads
pass through the comb, Fig. 3, which shews wires on the lattice principle;'
they may, however, be parallel.
The jacquard is like an ordinary 200 jacquard machine, but only 112
lifting hooks are put in motion; the numbers 1 to 4 in the weft for the
edge of the crinoline; Nos. 5 to 12 for the lowest pocket; Nos. 13 to 16 for
the piece of taffeta between the first and second pocket; Nos. 17 to 112
successively 8 for the pocket and 4 for the taffetȧ.
To weave conically the method of working the shuttle is essentially
different from the ordinary method. Instead of heaving each lead by a

page_text: lifting hook, there is here and there one lifting hook which lifts for the pocket
fields 17 leads or harness threads with mailes which hang on one wire, as
shewn in Fig. 2 and Fig. 7, which lifts 52 harness threads for he taffeta
pieces. Now, as the sections of the harness can be put to work singly and
independently from each other, the conical weaving is explained as described
lifting hook, there is here and there one lifting hook which lifts for
fields 17 leads or harness threads with mailes which hang on or
shewn in Fig. 2 and Fig. 7, which lifts 52 harness threads for
pieces. Now, as the sections of the harness can be put to work
independently from each other, the conical weavingis explained as
below.
COMPOSITION OF A CRINOLINE WITH 9 Hoops.
Reed or comb, No. 12, 30 wires per inch, 1,082 wires.
Thick border
-
2 wires at 7 threads
3
"
at S
"
viz., 7 threads, No. 60
-
14 t
-
24
1
12
27
"
1 binding thread
1
First pocket
16 wires at 7 threads
-
1.
120
S do.
"
1)
6
2
do.
رو
"
12
Strip or width of sartin, 14
4 do.
"
56
"
64
ני
4 wires at 4 red
">
256
S
4 black
"
"
14
دو
"
.6
2
"
"
Second pocket
-
16
4 threads black
7 threads
56
do.
12
ប
Hond
"
"
1
S
do.
}
- 120
27
23
Second field of taffeta
Third pocket
-
- 16
104 wires at 2 threads
7 do.
- 208
"'
"
1
S do.
"
}
- 120
"
Third field of taffeta
The following 6 pockets]
are
The following 6 fields)
of taffetta are
104
2
do.
"
"
- 208
15
"
,, 7 do.
- 630
104
2 do.
"
"
1,248

page_text: The horizontal lines mean the position of the warp threads, but for every
lifting wire are drawn in divisions representing, as shewn in the margin, the
widths drawn up successively by the wires. The vertical lines represent the
successive lifts of the warp by the lifting wires and their connection with
the jacquard from which the threads pass marked either with a point or a
cross; the black points rise, and the others remain stationary."
The cutting of the cards is done so that the ground as well as the figure ar
cut out twice, in order to cause the design to correspond properly. As.shew
in Fig. 8, stuffs are woven conically by the weaver working as follows with th
shuttle-
1st, until past the third pocket.
2nd, back.
3,
4,
until past the 5th pocket.
back.
ول
6,
7,
8,
to and fro the whole length of the pockets and taffeta.
until the third pocket.
until the fifth pocket.
back.
9,
10,
11,
12,
back:
13,
14,
15,
16,
17,
18,
19,
to and fro through all the pockets and taffeta fields.
for figures, also to and fro through all the pockets and taffet
20, S fields.
For mantles and dresses, and other tapering fabrics, the same mode
working is adopted.
From the foregoing description the Invention will be easily comprehended
I claim as my Invention, and desire to be secured to me by the herein i
part recited Letters Patent, the method of weaving conical or tapering fabric
by the novel and combined operation of the warp threads and shuttle, th
jacquard action and lifters, and the conical rollers, substantially as herei

page_text: specified and shewn, such fabrics being applicable to crinolines, skirts, inantles,
and other such like articles of wearing apparel.
In witness whereof, 1, the said Friederich Kreuz, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Eleventh day of March, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight
Witness,
ALEX". M. PRINCE,
Office of Patents,
4. Trafalgar Square,
Charing Cross.
FR. KREUZ. (L.S.)