Improvements in Jacquard Machines used in Weaving Handkerchiefs and other Articles.
Year: 1890

page_text: Date of Application, 1st July, 1890
Complete Specification Left, 25th Feb., 1891-Accepted, 2nd May, 1891
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Jacquard Machines used in Weaving Handkerchiefs
and other Articles.
We CHARLES HAHLO and CHARLES EDWARD LIEBREICH, both of Mill
Street Bradford, Machine Makers and Merchants, and THEOPHILUS HANSON of
3 Sherwood Place, Undercliffe Bradford, Mechanic do hereby declare the nature
of this invention to be as follows:-
Our improvements refer to such Jacquard machines as are used in the manufacture
of handkerchiefs, serviettes, shawls and such articles as have borders upon them,
and has for its object the facilitation of the work by avoiding the necessity for
employing two or more sets of cards, one for the border, or one for each border
portion, and one for the middle as has hitherto been the case; and hence in
saving time and labour in changing cards; and for causing each portion of the
pattern being so woven to be produced automatically, at such distances as may
be required.
In carrying out our invention we employ a jacquard of the ordinary construction
either single or double lift, or we may apply it to any special form of jacquard, and
we arrange the needle-board which directly faces the card-cylinder, or the card
cylinder, so as to move in the vertical or horizontal plane.
By preference we have the needles, or crosswires, of the machine set at double
the distance apart, and we use a card-cylinder having double the number of rows of
holes that there are needles. Upon every alternate row of holes, as the 1st 3rd 5th
7th &c. we cut the pattern which would be cut upon one set of cards in the ordinary
manner, say, those used for weaving the border of a handkerchief, and upon the
intermediate rows of holes, as the 2nd 4th 6th and 8th, we cut the pattern which
would be cut upon another set of cards in the ordinary manner, as those used for
weaving the middle of such handkerchief. Or we may move the needle-board or
card-cylinder horizontally and cut alternate cross rows of the cards for the purpose
above described.
Having so arranged the cutting of the cards, we bring the requisite rows of holes
in the card cylinder opposite the needles in the jacquard by raising or depressing
either the needle-board or card-cylinder, or moving one or the other horizontally,
and weave the necessary length of cloth. Then to change to one pattern from
another we move the said needle-board or card-cylinder so as to bring the needles
opposite the next set of rows of holes, and weave as much of that pattern as
desired, and this movement to the needle board or card-cylinder we communicate
automatically from the cards themselves, or other suitable means, for the purpose
herein described.
THOS. R. ASHENHURST,
71, Ashgrove, Bradford, Agent for the Applicants.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Jacquard Machines used in Weaving Handkerchiefs
and other Articles.
We CHARLES HAHLO and CHARLES EDWARD LIEBREICH both of Mill
Street Bradford, Machine Makers and Merchants, and THEOPHILUS HANSON of
3 Sherwood Place, Undercliffe Bradford, Mechanic, do hereby declare the nature
of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
Our improvements refer to such Jacquard machines as are used in the manufacture

page_text: of handkerchiefs, serviettes, shawls and such articles as have borders upon them,
and has for its object the facilitation of the work, by avoiding the necessity for
employing two or more sets of cards, one for the border, or one for each border
portion, and one for the middle as has hitherto been the case, and hence in
saving time and labour in changing cards, and for causing each portion of the
pattern being so woven to be produced automatically at such distances as may
be required.
In carrying out our invention we employ a jacquard of the ordinary construction,
either single or double lift, or we may apply it to any special form of jacquard, and
we arrange the needle board which directly faces the card cylinder, or the card
cylinder, so as to move in the vertical or horizontal plane.
By preference we have the needles or crosswires of the machine set at double the
usual distance apart, and we use a card cylinder having double the number of rows
of holes that there are needles. Upon every alternate row of holes, as the 1st 3rd
5th 7th &c. we cut the pattern which would be cut upon one set of cards in the
ordinary manner say, those used for weaving the border of a handkerchief and
upon the intermediate rows of holes, as the 2nd 4th 6th 8th &c. we cut the pattern
which would be cut upon another set of cards in the ordinary manner, as those used
for weaving the middle of such handkerchief. Or we may move the needle board
or card cylinder horizontally and cut alternate cross rows of the card for the
purpose above described.
Having so arranged the cutting of the cards we bring the requisite rows of holes
in the card cylinder opposite the needles in the jacquard by raising or depressing
either the needle board or card cylinder or moving one or the other horizontally,
and weave the necessary length of cloth. Then to change from one pattern to the
other we move the said needle board or card cylinder so as to bring the needles
opposite the next set of rows of holes, and weave as much of that pattern as desired:
and this movement to the needle-board or card-cylinder we communicate from the
cards themselves or other suitable means.
And in order that our invention may be understood we proceed to describe it as
follows and by reference to the accompanying drawings:-
A. Fig. 1 is end elevation of the frame of an ordinary Jacquard machine, and
Fig. 4 is a back elevation of the same machine, the letters on both referring to
the same parts. B. is the card-cylinder, C the arm or lever carrying the card-
cylinder, D the needle board. E and F are two levers placed upon pivots attached
to the frame of the jacquard, or upon the spindle E¹. One arm of E is attached to
the needle board by the rod e and the other arm to the lever F (which is pivoted
at F2) by the rod f. The opposite arm of the lever F is of a suitable shape F' to
rest upon and be actuated by the chain G. The links forming the chain & are of
special form suited for the work they have to do, as shown at L Fig. 2, and
L' Fig. 3. The links of the chain are passed over the cylinder H which is made to
revolve, as and for the purpose to be hereafter described. When the link L is on
the top of the cylinder H, and the lever F resting upon it, the needle-board would
be in its normal position, and resting in the socket or groove provided for it; but
when the links L' are resting on the top of the cylinder the lower arm of the lever F
would be raised, as the links L' are made so much deeper than the links L as by
their action upon the lever F and through the lever E, by means of the connecting
rods e. f. would raise the needle board a sufficient distance to bring the needles
opposite fresh rows of holes in the card cylinder as hereinbefore described. The
cylinder H is provided at one end with a notched head to be acted upon by the pawl M.
and at the other end with the usual form of head and spring hammer for keeping it
in position. This pawl M. is pivoted to a lever M', one end of which is pivoted to the
gauntry upon which the jacquard rests, or other suitable position and the other end
is attached to one of the upright hooks of the machine so that it can be actuated in
the same manner as the harness is.
To bring the portion of the apparatus just described into use the cards are cut in
the manner hereinbefore described, and on a given card, or on any given number of

page_text: cards in the set a hole is cut so as to correspond with, and actuate the hook
attached to the lever M' and so cause it to be raised, and every time this lever
is so raised the cylinder H is moved round a distance corresponding with one of the
links G.
If a pattern is to be woven in which there are two hundred picks of weft in one
repetition, and four of such repetitions will complete one border of the article being
woven then four of the links L' might be strung together on the chain. On the last
card of the set a hole might be cut so as to act upon and raise the lever M¹ in the
manner described, thus permitting the second row of holes, or sets of rows, in the
card to be brought opposite the needles at the proper time by the introduction of
the links L' and in the same manner the links L will remain in contact with the
lever F and keep the proper pattern on the cards in connection with the needles as
long as desired.
The pawl N is arranged for the purpose of turning the cylinder H backward by
means of the handle N'in case of the said cylinder having been turned over once too
often by any accident.
As alternative arrangements to this herein described we may by a suitable
arrangement of levers raise and depress, or otherwise move the card cylinder B. by
connecting the apparatus herein described, or similar apparatus to the arm from
which the lever C is suspended, either directly or by the introduction of a suitable
roller, or similar arrangement, and inclined plane or groove. Or instead of the
arrangement of the needles and alternate rows of holes in the cards herein described
we may have the needles of the machine arranged in the usual manner and of the
usual pitch, and the card cylinder of double the width or depth usually in use, and
make the vertical movement of the needle board, in this case the latter by preference,
cover a distance which would bring the whole of the upper or lower half of the card
opposite such needles. Or instead of having cards of double width we might have
two ordinary cards laced together in the usual manner, one representing the border
and the other the middle portion of the design, and one or the other brought into
nse in the manner described in reference to the alternate rows. Or, the two sets of
cards may be made to travel round an octagonal cylinder instead of a square one,
that is to say, having an octagonal instead of a square section, and bringing
alternate cards into use as desired. Instead of each side of the square holding two
cards it is reduced to an octagon, and is moved one fourth of a revolution at each
pick, thus bringing alternate cards in contact with the needles, and to enable us to
change from one set to the other we employ two square heads on the card cylinder
each acted upon by a separate catch. One of these square heads we set to one of
the sets of cards and the other to the other set.
For the purpose of bringing one or the other sets of cards into contact with the
needles we connect the catches with the lever e and operate them by means of the
chain G. in the same manner as the needle board or card cylinder is operated as
herein described.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what we
claim is :-
1st. The automatic movement of the needle board or card cylinder, and the
method of arranging and combining two or more patterns, or portions of the same
pattern upon one set of jacquard cards, and bringing each of such patterns, or portions
of patterns, on the cards producing them into operation at the desired time as
herein described.
2nd. The apparatus and arrangement or combination herein described as applied
to any Jacquard machine used in looms for weaving.
Dated the 24th day of February 1891.
THOS. R. ASHENHURST.
71, Ashgrove, Bradford, Agent.