IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MAKING OF SHOES AND BOOTS, AND IN MACHINERY FOR LASTING THE UPPERS THEREOF
Year: 1883

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Herbert John Haddan, of Kensington, Middlesex for an
Invention of IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MAKING OF SHOES AND BOOTS, AND IN
MACHINERY FOR LASTING THE UPPERS THEREOF a communication to him
from abroad by Martin Rutter Ethridge, of the State of Massachusetts, United
States of America
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Herbert John Haddan at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 8th January 1883.
"
HERBERT JOHN HADDAN, of Kensington, Middlesex, IMPROVEMENTS IN THE
MAKING OF SHOES AND BOOTS, AND IN MACHINERY FOR LASTING THE UPPERS
THEREOF a communication to me from abroad by Martin Rutter Ethridge, of the
state of Massachusetts, United States of America,
"
The process for making.boots or shoes consists in first lasting the upper and
securing its laps down to the insole at intervals, by clamps, next, laying the outer
sole upon the clamps, the laps and insole, and driving nails through the outer sole
and laps and into the insole and between the clamps, and next separating the
clamps from the laps, and extracting the last from the shoe, and connecting the
soles and laps by sewing or stitching going through them as set forth; the nails if
preferable, being subsequently extracted from the soles.
The machinery is constructed as follows: The frame of the machine, is provided
with two posts, for the support of a last with an upper upon it, Each of theso
posts slides vertically in a guide or standard, and rests upon a rotary cam pivoted
to the standard. The base part of each standard is slotted, to receive one or more
clamp screws, which goes down through the slot and is scrowed in the base of the
frame. On revolving the cam, the standard can be forced upward or lowered as
occasion may require, and by means of the alot and clamp screw of its base, the
standard may be adjusted either toward or away from the other standard, as may
be required.
Pivoted to the frame are two lovers having their longer arms connected with a
pedal, in order that, the shorter arms of the levers may be caused to approach each
other
.

page_text: Each lever has projecting from its upper arm an arched piece, which is grooved
to receive a chain, which embraces the two arched pieces in their grooves, and goes
between two grooved guide rollers, and at its ends is fastened to the periphery of a
wheel. The said wheel is supported by a standard, and there is fixed to the wheel
a gear, that engages with the teeth of a sectoral lever, pivoted to the standards.
This lever carries a stop-lever pawl, that works into the teeth of a stationary
ratchet wheel, fixed on the stationary fulcrum of the lever. On moving the lever
in the right direction first named wheel may be revolved, so as to cause the chain
to bo wound upon it, and in consequence thereof to force inward the arched
pieces, and the upper arms of the said lovers, the pawl lever and the ratchet wheel
serving as may be required, to hold the said levers from moving in contrary
directions.
Fastened to each of the upper arms of the said levers (auch arms being T shaped)
are three jaws, whose office is to turn the upper down upon the insole on the last.
The two outer jaws are generally to be attached to the upper part of the arm, by
means which will admit of their being adjusted to different distances from the
intermediate jaw, as the size of the last may require.
Secured upon the said jaws are adjustable gages which determine the proper
position of the outer sole to the last, the upper and insole on the upper being
lasted, The outer sole, laid between these gages and on the clamps to be described,
will when the jaws are moved in, be brought by the gages to its proper position,
for being tacked or nailed to the laps of the upper and to the insole
Within each set of the said jaws, is another set of jaws which are provided with
clamps each of the last mentioned or auxiliary jaws is supported by a stop-slide
and against one or more spiral springs t, supported by and extending into a
screw u, screwed into the next adjacent outer jaw. This screw serves to vary the
pressure of the spring against the jaw, as circumstances may require. Each clamp
may be provided with a small gravitating toothed pawl. The pawl is arranged
within and projects down through the clamp and is pivoted to it. As the jaw
carrying the clamp moves inward, the pawl catches the leather of the upper, and
aids the clamp in forcing it forward, the clamp subsequently extending over and
holding the lap of the upper down upon the insole. On the jaw receding from tho
leather, the pawl will readily pass out of it.
To last an upper by the machine, the last with the upper on it is to bo placed
bottom upward upon the tops of the two posts, with the heel-part of the upper
within an adjusting fork, projecting from a slide supported by the post.
The prongs of the said fork should be adapted to the slide, so as to be adjustable,
toward or from each-other, as the size of the shoe may require, and the slide is to
be so applied to the post, as to be movable toward and away from the other part.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed
by the said Herbert John Haddan in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
-7th July 1883.
HERBERT JOHN HADDAN, of Kensington, Middlesex " IMPROVEMENTS IN THE
MAKING OF SHOES AND BOOTS, AND IN MACHINERY FOR LASTING THE UPPERS
THEREOF a communication to me from abroad by Martin Rutter Ethridge, of the
State of Massachusetts, United States of America
"
The first part of this invention relates to a process of making a shoe or boot
In carrying out the said process of making the shoe or boot, the upper of such
shoe or boot is first to be lasted on the insole without connecting by sewing or
other means extending from one to the other of them, the laps of the upper upon
the outer surface of the insole. To hold the laps securely against the insole to
enable the outer sole to be laid on such laps and insole and connected thereto, I use
clamps or devices such as will press the laps at suitable intervals closely to the
sole. Having applied such clamps to the upper. I next lay the outer sole upon
the upper the clamps and the insole and I drive nails between the clamps and
through the outer sole, the said laps and the insole to or about to the bottom or
Hole of the last. The outer sole I provide with a groove and a covering lip thereto,
Buch groove and lip extending around the outer sole near to and parallel with its
periphery, and being for the reception of the thread used in stretching together the
outer sole, the laps and the insole. The nails or tacks used, as above described, in
connecting the upper and the two soles, are to be inserted at or near one edge of,
but not in the said groove, so as to interfere with the needle of the M.Kay sewing
machine, when used to sew together the soles and upper
After having so tacked together the soles and laps of the upper the shoe is to be
separated from the clamps, and the last is to be extracted from the upper, and the
shoe is to be applied to the sewing machine and the soles and upper are to be
sewed together thereby, the stitches being arranged in the groove of the upper,
after which the nails are to be withdrawn from the soles and upper and the
covering lip is to be closed down over the stitches, so as to hide them from view,
and the shoe is to be finished, a heel being fixed to it if necessary:
By the above described method of making a shoe or boot, it becomes, when
completed, rid of nails extending through its insole, to the inconvenience of the
wearer, or to cause wear of his stockings, the shoe or boot being when completed,
what is usually termed a sewed shoe or boot-but it may have the said lip
fastening nails left in it, provided they be arranged so as to be covered by the lip
when it may be turned down, but I prefer to withdraw the nails before laying and
fastening down the lip.
The second part of the invention relates to mechanism for lasting the upper of a
shoe or boot, to be constructed in accordance with the process aforesaid.
Of the accompanying drawings-
Fig 1 is a top view-Fig 2 a side elevation-Fig 3 a longitudinal section, and
Fig. 4 a transverse section of a machine einbodying this invention-The remaining
figures 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9 are hereinafter described.
In the drawings A denotes the frame of the machine, it being provided with
two posts B. C, for the support of a last with an upper upon it.
Each of these
posts slides vertically in a guide or standard D, and rests upon a rotary cam E,
pivoted to the standard. The base part a, of each standard is alotted, as shown
at b, to receive one or more clamp screws c, which goes down through the slot and
is screwed in the base d of the frame. A top view of one of the standards, with

page_text: .
its base and clamp screw, is shown in Fig 5. On revolving the cam, the standard
can be forced upward or lowered as occasion may require, and by means of the
slot and clamp screw of its base, the standard may be adjusted either toward or
away from the other standard, as may be required.
Pivoted to the frame A, are two levers F, F, having their longer arms connected
with a pedal G, in order that when the pedal is depressed by the foot of an
attendant, the shorter arms of the levers may be caused to approach each other.
Each lever has projecting from its upper arm an arched piece H, which is
grooved to receive a chain I-which embraces the two arched pieces in their
grooves, and goes between the two grooved guide rollers e, e, and at its ends is
fastened to the periphery of a wheel -The said wheel is supported by a
standard g, and there is fixed to the wheel a gear h, that engages with the teeth of
a sectoral lever i, pivoted to the standards. This lever carries a stop lever pawl k,
that works into the teeth of a stationary ratchet wheel Z, fixed on the stationary
fulcrum of the lever, all being arranged as represented. On moving the lever in
the right direction, the wheelf may be revolved, so as to cause the chain I to be
wound upon it, and in consequence thereof, to force inward the arched pieces H,
and the upper arms of the levers F F, the pawl lever and the ratchet wheel
serving as may be required, to hold the said levers from moving in contrary
directions.
Fastened to each of the upper arms of the levers F (such arms being T shaped)
are three jaws m, n, o, whose office is to turn the upper down upon the insole on
the last. The two jaws m, o, are generally to be attached to the upper part of the
arm, by means which will admit of their being adjusted to different distances from
the intermediate jaw n, as the size of the last may require, the said jaw n being
· permanently secured to the lever F.
Secured upon the jaws m, n, o, are adjustable gauges p which determine the
proper position of the outer sole to the last, the upper and insole-on the upper
being lasted. The outer sole laid between these gauges and on the clamps to be
described, will when the jaws are moved in, be brought by the gauges to its
proper position, for being tacked or nailed to the laps of the upper and to the
insole.
Within each set of the jaws, m, n, o, is another set of jawa p¹, qr, which are
provided with clamps 8, to extend from them as represented. Fig 6 is a nearly
horizontal section, taken lengthwise of the jaws m, n and o, and their auxiliary
jaws p³ q and T, from which it will be seen that each of the jaws p', q and r, is
supported by a stop slide s' and against one or more spiral springs t, supported by
and extending into a screw u, screwed into the next adjacent outer jaw. This
screw serves to vary the pressure of the spring against the jaw, as circumstances
may require.
Each clamp & may be provided with a small gravitating toothed pawl'v, see
Figs. 7, 8 and 9 the first of such figures being a top view, the second a bottoin
view and the third a longitudinal section of the clamp and its pawl.
The pawl is arranged within and projects down through the clamp and is pivoted
to it. As the jaw carrying the clamp moves inward, the pawl catches the leather
of the upper, and aids the clamp in forcing it forward, the clamp subsequently
extending over and holding the lap of the upper down upon the insole. On the
jaw receding from the leather--the pawl will readily pass out of it.
To last an upper by the machine, the last with the upper on it is to be placed
bottom upward upon the tops of the parts BC, with the heel part of the upper
within an adjusting fork K, projecting from a slide L supported by the post.
The prongs of the said fork should be adapted to the slide, so as to be adjustable,
toward or from each other, as the size of the shoe may require, and the slide is to
be so applied to the post, as to be movable toward and away from the other
part. On moving the slide toward the opposite post, and up to the heel part
of the upper, the upper and last can be adjusted in position for the jaws to act
against the upper-Next, both sets of jaws are to be caused simultaneously to

page_text: approach the upper and last. In so doing they will stretch the upper firmly
on the last, and the outer jaws will crowd it down upon the insole, the clamps
being forced over and upon the laps so as to hold them firmly down. After
tacking down the lap at the toe and heel, and paring down the laps where necessary
at the bends thereof, the attendant is to lay the outer sole between the gauges, and
to force down the pedal so as to bring the outer sole and insole and last into their
correct relative positions. Having done this, he is to drive nails through the outer
sole, the laps and into or through the insole. The shoe thus lasted and prepared is
next to be removed from the machine, and further treated, as hereinbefore
mentioned.
Having thus described this invention, what I claim is as follows:
1. The process, substantially as described, of making a shoe or boot; it consisting
in Grst lasting the upper and securing its laps down to the insole at intervals, by
clamps, next, laying the outer sole upon the clamps, the laps and insole, and driving
nails through the outer sole and laps and into the insole and between the clamps
and next separating the clamps from the laps, and extracting the last from the
shoe, and connecting the soles and laps by sewing or stitching going through them
as set forth; the nails, if preferable, being subsequently extracted from the soles.
2. The combination of the inner sets of jaws and their clamps, with the outer
sets of jaws, and their sole gauges, such inner jaws being applied to the outer ones,
and the latter having mechanism for forcing them inward; and all being to
operate substantially as set forth.
3. The combination of the posts B, C, and the fork K, adjustable as described,
with the inner, and outer sets of jaws, provided with clamps and sole gauges and
mechanism for operating them, the said jaws, substantially as set forth.
4. The combination of the toothed pawl v, with each of the jaw clamps 8, such
pawl being applied to the clamp in manner and to operate substantially as set
forth.
5. The combination of the sliding posts B, C, with the adjustable standards D,
and the rotary cams E, thereof, arranged with such posts as set forth.
In Witness whereof I the said Herbert John Haddan have hereunto set my
hand and seal this 6th day of July A.D. 1883.
T T HADDAN