New or Improved Sewing Stitch or Seam.
Year: 1893

page_text: Date of Application, 16th Nov., 1893
Complete Specification, Left, 16th Aug., 1894-1ccepted, 22nd Sept., 1894
A. New or Improved Sewing Stitch or Seam.
A communication from abroad by DAVID WILLIAM GARDNER, Mechanical
Draughtsman, of Jersey City, New Jersey, United States of America.
1, KENNETH LESLIE SKINNER, of 41 Ambler Road, Finsbury Park, in the
County of Middlesex, Clerk, do hereby declare the nature, of this invention (as
communicated to me from abroad by David William Gardner, of Jersey City,
New Jersey, in the United States of America, Mechanical Draughtsman) to be
as follows:
This invention, as communicated to me: by my foreign correspondent, consists in
a new or improved sewing stitch or seam, by means of which certain advantages
are obtained.
The invention relates to sewing with three threads, two of which are carried by
two eye-pointed needles situated side by side and moving together, and the third of
which is carried by a shuttle reciprocating below the cloth plate.
Double seams concatenated on both sides of the material. are, not new in the
abstract. In United States Patent No. 438,795, is set forth a seam.formed of two
parallel rows of stitching concatenated above and below the material, but the seam
thus formed is unsuitable for knitted goods, hat sweats and other, articles of
manufacture requiring a stitch that will not rip or unravel. Similar, seams, have
also been formed from three threads, producing a purl on the edge of the material,
which have however been unsuitable for overstitching. hat leathers and,,binding
other articles requiring a complete overstitch.
The main object of this invention is the production of a seam of exceptional
strength that will not rip or unravel, especially adapted for use on knitted goods
and similar material, and that may also be effectually employed in " overstitching"
hat leathers, binding edges of material and other like applications.
In this invention the third or-under thread is carried by a, shuttle, and the
threads are manipulated below the cloth in such manner as to attain an absolute
lock stitch, which will neither rip nor unravel, with less thread than by other
concatenations,-the third or lower thread being worked in and around the needle
threads in such manner as to produce a less bulky, flatter, more simple and less
expensive stitch.
The invention consists essentially in laying a bight of the thread connected to
the material at one row of stitches across over the top of the material into the
line of the second parallel row of stitches, putting the thread from the second row
of stitches through the said loop so formed in the first thread, passing each of said
upper threads through the material; or one thread through the material and one
thread outside of the material, forming loops in both of said first and second upper
threads below the material, passing a bight of the lower third thread through both
of said loops, carrying the said loops of upper thread to one side out of the path
of the needles by means of the lower third thread, holding the said loops of upper
thead and the lower thread in such position, carrying the upper threads up and
above the material again laying a bight of the first named upper thread across
over the top of the material into the line of the second parallel row of stitches,
putting the thread from this second row of stitches through said loop so formed in

page_text: the first upper thread, again passing the upper threads either through the material
or one through the material and the other outside of the material, forming loops in
the aid upper threads below the material, passing a bight of the lower third thread
through both of said loops, and carrying the said loops of upper thread to one side
out of the path of the needles by means of the lower third thread, and so on con-
tinuously to form consecutive stitches.
The manipulation of the two upper threads above the material is substantially
the same as in United States Letters Patent No. 438,795, with the exception that
the loops of the needle threads in the present case are concatenated below the
cloth plate by means of a lower third thread carried by a shuttle,—this lower third
thread taking the loops from both of the thread carrying needles.
It will be thus seen that the distinguishing feature of the invention consists in
taking the loops of the needle threads from the needles below the material, by
passing a bight of the lower third thread through them, drawing the loops and
bight to one side of the path of the needles, forming new loops in the needle threads
below the material and securing them by passing a bight of the lower third thread
through them to one side, and so on continuously, the manipulation of the threads
above the material below being the same as heretofore.
In the accompanying drawings I represent symbolically certain devices or
elements used in carrying out the invention although I do not wish to confine
myself to the use of any particular form or construction of parts since it is obvious
that the means employed for manipulating the thread are of secondary importance,
and may be varied without departing from the spirit and intent of the invention.
Figure 1, is a top view of a portion of a strip of material stitched according to
this invention enlarged sufficiently to permit of a diagramatic representation of
the relative positions of the threads;
Figure 2, is a view of the under side of the same;
Figures 3, 4 and 5, are isometrical perspectives representing arbitrarily the
positions of the upper threads with relation to the needles and looper in effecting
the concatenation of the upper threads.
Figure 6, is a symbolical representation of the devices or elements essential in
forming the improved stitch;
Figures 7, 8, 9, 10 and 11, are diagrams representing upon an enlarged scale the
successive steps in the formation of the improved stitch.
The two eye-pointed needles g, g', are set a short distance apart and transverse to
the line of feed, one slightly lower than the other. One needle g, carries the thread
marked 3, and the other the thread marked 2. The looper b, for carrying the
thread 3, from the left hand needle y, over into the path of its companion needle g',
to effect the concatenation of the threads above the material, may be formed and
operated substantially as set forth in United States Letters Patent No. 438,794, or
any other mechanism for effecting the result may be employed, the manipulation of
the threads and the form and appearance of the stitch above the material not being
original in the present application and forming only a step in this invention.
The form of the shuttle R, for effecting the concatenation of the threads below
the material is of secondary importance provided it is adapted to manipulate the
threads below the cloth as herein described. The shuttle R, shown, common to
sewing machines using a single needle thread, carries the continuous under or third
thread 4 and has an intermittent reciprocating movement which on its advance
carries it through the loops in the needle threads and below them on its retractile
movement.
The cloth plate is represented in section at c, c, in proximate position with
relation to the operative parts in Figure 6, but without regard to relative position
in Figures 7, 8, 9, 10 and 11, in which the cloth plate and shuttle R, are separated
Butficiently to permit the positions of the threads to be shown diagrammatically.
In Figures 3, 4 and 5, several stitches are represented as already formed in the
material d. Both needles g, g', are shown as elevated in Figures 3 and 4, their
threads 2, 3, extending from the eyes to the material d, at the points where

page_text: the needles have receded from the material at the completion of the last stitch, the
material having been fed the length of a stitch preparatory to the descent of the
needles to make two more parallel stitches. In this position the looper b, engages
the thread 3, (as indicated in Figure 3,) and carries it across over the upper side
of the material forming a loop or bight in the thread 3 which extends slightly beyond
the vertical axis of the needle g', as indicated in Figure 4, so that upon the descent
of the needles the said needle 9', will carry its thread 2 through the loop formed by
the looper b, in the thread 3, thereby securing the thread 3, above the material and
producing the cross concatenation shown. The looper b, is retracted into its former
position at or about the completion of the descent of the needles.
The descent of the needles carries both threads 2 3, through the material, and as
they start to rise again loops are formed in both threads 2, 3, (as indicated in
The mark +
Figure 7) which are entered by the shuttle R, as shown in Figure 8.
on the shuttle in Figure 9, indicates that the shuttle is at rest after completing its
stroke in the direction of the horizontal arrow. As the needles g, g', continue to
ascend the loops are raised above the path of the shuttle R, when the latter
performs its retractile movement, coming to rest at + as in Figures 10 and 11, in
which position it remains until the needles after the advance of the material and
the manipulation of the threads above it as herein before set forth again descend
through the material and by the commencement of their upper movement again
form loops in the needle threads, which loops are in turn entered by the shuttle R.
In the foregoing description the needles are described as both passing through
the material, the seam produced being that represented in Figures 1 and 2, above
the dotted line, a, a.
Where the material is fed to the machine with the edge between the needles the
same manipulation of the threads by the operative parts occurs, but the result is
somewhat different in appearance as will be seen by reference to the portions of
Under these conditions the left hand
Figures 1 and 2, below the dotted line a, a.
needle thread 3, is the only one that appears above the goods when stitched, the
portion of the right hand needle thread 2, which forms the parallel edge stitch
when both needles penetrate the material being drawn over by the tension to the
under side of the material carrying with it and spreading out a portion of the left
hand needle thread 3, and leaving the strands 3 above close together and parallel to
each other. The result of this simple change in the manner of feeding the
material to the needles is the production in effect of a superior and safe
stitch" for binding, stitching hat sweats, etc.
over-
The seam formed by passing both needles through the material, consisting
essentially of two parallel rows of stitches, may be trimmed as indicated by the
dotted lines, x, Figures 1 and 2, the trimming being done close to, but not cutting,
the threads 2 and 3, and thereafter the two pieces of material may be opened out,
seam, the
leaving the loops of the threads 2 and 3, extending from one to the other
thread 2 crossing from one to the other line of stitching at one side of the opened
material while the thread 3, is extended across on the other side of the material,
the said threads each concatenated in the line of stitching made by the other
thread, and each with the third thread 4, serving to bind and hold in place
smoothly the material between the parallel lines of stitching, and making a safe,
non-ripping, flat seam. By superposing the material and sewing with the right
hand needle g', over the edge substantially the same result can be attained when
the material is opened out.
Dated this 15th day of November 1893.

page_text: '
A communication from abroad by DAVID WILLIAM GARDNER, Mechanical
Draughtsman, of Jersey City, New Jersey, United States of America.
I, KENNETH LESLIE SKINNER, of 5 North Road, Highgate, in the County
of Middlesex, Clerk, (late of 41 Ambler Road, Finsbury Park), do hereby declare
the nature of this invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed,
to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
This invention, as communicated to me by my foreign correspondent, consists in
a new or improved sewing stitch or seam by means of which certain advantages are
obtained.
The invention relates to sewing with three threads, two of which are carried by
two eye-pointed needles situated side by side and moving together, and the third
of which is carried by a shuttle reciprocating below the cloth plate.
Double seams concatenated on both sides of the material are not new in the
abstract. In United States Patent No. 438,795, is set forth a seam formed of two
parallel rows of stitching concatenated above and below the material, but the seam
thus formed is unsuitable for knitted goods, hat sweats and other articles of manu-
facture requiring a stitch that will not rip or unravel. Similar seams have also
been formed from three threads, producing a purl on the edge of the material,
which have however been unsuitable for overstitching hat leathers and binding
other articles requiring a complete overstitch.
The main object of this invention is the production of a seam of exceptional
strength that will not rip or unravel, especially adapted for use on knitted goods
and similar material, and that may also be effectually employed in "overstitching
hat leathers, binding edges of material and other like applications.
"
In this invention the third or under thread is carried by a shuttle, and the threads
are manipulated below the cloth in such manner as to attain an absolute lock stitch,
which will neither rip nor unravel, with less thread than by other concatenations,
the third or lower thread being worked in and around the needle threads in such
manner as to produce a less bulky, flatter, more simple and less expensive stitch.
The invention consists essentially in laying a bight of the thread connected to
the material at one row of stitches across over the top of the material into the
line of the second parallel row of stitches, putting the thread from the second row
of stitches through the said loop so formed in the first thread, passing cach of
said upper threads through the material, or one thread through the material and
one thread outside of the material, forming loops in both of said first and second
upper threads below the material, passing a bight of the lower third thread through
both of said loops, carrying the said loops of upper thread to one side out of the
path of the needles by means of the lower third thread, holding the said loops of
upper thread and the lower thread in such position, carrying the upper threads up
and above the material again laying a bight of the first named upper thread across
over the top of the material into the line of the second parallel row of stitches,
putting the thread from this second row of stitches through said loop so formed in
the first upper thread, again passing the upper threads either through the
material or one through the material and the other outside of the material, forming
loops in the said upper threads below the material, passing a bight of the lower
third thread through both of said loops, and carrying the said loops of upper
thread to one side out of the path of the needles by means of the lower third
thread, and so on continuously to form consecutive stitches.
The manipulation of the two upper threads above the material is substantially
the same as in United States Letters Patent No. 438,795, with the exception

page_text: that the loops of the needle threads in the present case are concatenated below
cloth plate by means of a lower third thread carried by a shuttle,--this lower third
thread taking the loops from both of the thread carrying needles.
It will be thus seen that the distinguishing feature of the invention consists in
taking the loops of the needle threads from the needles below the material, by
passing a bight of the lower third thread through them, drawing the loops and
bight to one side of the path of the needles, forming new loops in the needle threads
below the material and securing them by passing a bight of the lower third thread
through them to one side, and so on continuously, the manipulation of the threads
above the material being the same as heretofore.
In the drawings filed with the Provisional Specification I represent symbolically
certain devices or elements used in carrying out the invention although I do not
wish to confine myself to the use of any particular form or construction of parts
since it is obvious that the means employed for manipulating the thread are of
secondary importance, and may be varied without departing from the spirit and
intent of the invention.
Figure 1, is a top view of a portion of a strip of material stitched according to
this invention enlarged sufficiently to permit of a diagrammatic representation of
the relative positions of the threads;
Figure 2, is a view of the under side of the same;
Figures 3, 4 and 5, are isometrical perspectives representing arbitrarily the
positions of the upper threads with relation to the needles and looper in effecting
the concatenation of the upper threads.
Figure 6 is a symbolical representation of the devices or elements essential in
forming the improved stitch;
Figures 7, 8, 9, 10 and 11, are diagrams representing upon an enlarged scale the
successive steps in the formation of the improved stitch.
The two eye-pointed needles g, g', are set a short distance apart and transverse to
the line of feed, one slightly lower than the other. One needle g, carries the thread
marked 3, and the other the thread marked 2. The looper b, for carrying the
thread 3, from the left hand needle g, over into the path of its companion needle g¹,
to effect the concatenation of the threads above the material, may be formed and
operated substantially as set forth in United States Letters Patent No. 438,794,
or any other mechanism for effecting the result may be employed, the manipulation
of the threads and the form and appearance of the stitch above the material
not being original in the present application and forming only a step in this
invention.
The form of the shuttle R, for effecting the concatenation of the threads below
the material is of secondary importance provided it is adapted to manipulate the
threads below the cloth as herein described. The shuttle R, shown, common to
sewing machines using a single needle thread, carries the continuous under or third
thread 4 and has an intermittent reciprocating movement which on its advance
carries it through the loops in the needle threads and below them on its retractile
movement.
The cloth plate is represented in section at c, c, in proximate position with
relation to the operative parts in Figure 6, but without regard to relative position
in Figures 7, 8, 9, 10 and 11, in which the cloth plate and shuttle R, are
separated sufficiently to permit the positions of the threads to be shown diagram-
matically.
In Figures 3, 4 and 5, several stitches are represented as already formed in the
material d. Both needles g, g¹, are shown as elevated in Figures 3 and 4, their
threads 2, 3, extending from the eyes to the material d, at the points where the
needles have receded from the material at the completion of the last stitch,
the material having been fed the length of a stitch preparatory to the descent of the
needles to make two more parallel stitches. In this position the looper b, engages
the thread 3, (as indicated in Figure 3) and carries it across over the upper side of
the material forming a loop or bight in the thread 3 which extends slightly beyond

page_text: the vertical axis of the needle g', as indicated in Figure 4, so that upon the descent
of the needles the said needle g¹, will carry its thread 2 through the loop formed
by the looper b, in the thread 3, thereby securing the thread 3, above the material
and producing the cross concatenation shown. The looper b, is retracted
into its former position at or about the completion of the descent of the
needles.
The descent of the needles carries both threads 2 3, through the material, and
as they start to rise again loops are formed in both threads 2, 3, (as indicated in
Figure 7) which are entered by the shuttle R, as shown in Figure 8. The mark +
on the shuttle in Figure 9, indicates that the shuttle is at rest after completing its-
stroke in the direction of the horizontal arrow. As the needles g, g', continue to
ascend the loops are raised above the path of the shuttle R, when the latter
performs its retractile movement, coming to rest at + as in Figures 10 and 11, in
which position it remains until the needles after the advance of the material and
the manipulation of the threads above it as hereinbefore set forth again descend
through the material and by the commencement of their upward movement again
form loops in the needle threads, which loops are in turn entered by the shuttle R.
In the foregoing description the needles are described as both passing through
the material, the seam produced being that represented in Figures 1 and 2, above
the dotted line a, a.
Where the material is fed to the machine with the edge between the needles the
same manipulation of the threads by the operative parts occurs, but the result is
somewhat different in appearance as will be seen by reference to the portions of
the Figures 1 and 2, below the dotted line a, a. Under these conditions the left
hand needle thread 3, is the only one that appears above the goods when stitched,
the portion of the right hand needle thread 2, which forms the parallel edge stitch
when both needles penetrate the material being drawn over by the tension to the
under side of the material carrying with it and spreading out a portion of the left
hand needle thread 3, and leaving the strands 3 above close together and parallel
to each other. The result of this simple change in the manner of feeding the
material to the needles is the production in effect of a superior and safe "overstitch"
for binding, stitching hat sweats and the like.
The seam formed by passing both needles through the material, consisting
essentially of two parallel rows of stitches, may be trimmed as indicated by the
dotted lines x, x, Figures 1 and 2, the trimming being done close to, but not
cutting, the threads 2 and 3, and thereafter the two pieces of material may be
opened out, leaving the loops of the threads 2 and 3, extending from one to the
other seam, the thread 2 crossing from one to the other line of stitching at one
side of the opened material while the thread 3, is extended across on the other side
of the material, the said threads each concatenated in the line of stitching made
by the other thread, and each with the third thread 4, serving to bind and hold in
place smoothly the material between the parallel lines of stitching, and making
safe, non-ripping, flat seani. By superposing the material and sewing with the
right hand needle g', over the edge substantially the same result can be attained
when the material is opened out.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :
1. The new or improved sewing stitch or seam substantially as set forth.
2. The herein described seam composed of two upper threads and an under
thread, having loops of both upper threads formed below the material, a bight
of the said third lower thread passing through both said loops of upper thread and
holding them to one side below the material, both of said upper threads passing
above the material where a bight of one upper thread is laid across the top of the
material and beneath the other upper thread, the latter thread passing through the
loop thus formed in said first upper thread above the material both said upper

page_text: threads then passing below the material and being formed with loops through
which a bight of the said lower third thread is passed and by which they are drawn
to one side, and so on continuously.
בד
11'>
LA 1904
J. G. LORRAIN,
Chartered Patent Agent.