IMPROVED MACHINERY FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF COLLARS, CUFFS, AND OTHER ARTICLES OF DRESS MADE OF PAPER OR PAPER AND CLOTH COMBINED
Year: 1868

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Benjamin Browne, of No. 49, King William
Street, in the City of London, Civil Engineer, for the Invention of
"IMPROVED MACHINERY FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF COLLARS, CUFFS, AND
OTHER ARTICLES OF DRESS MADE OF PAPER OR PAPER AND CLOTH COMBINED."
-A communication from abroad by William Nathan Throckmorton,
of the City and State of New York.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Benjamin Browne
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition,
on the 26th March 1868.
I, BENJAMIN BROWNE, of No. 49, King William Street, in the City
of London, Civil Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of the said
Invention for "IMPROVED MACHINERY FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF COLLARS,
CUFFS, AND OTHER ARTICLES OF DRESS MADE OF PAPER OR PAPER AND CLOTH
COMBINED," a communication from abroad by William Nathan Throck-
morton, of the City and State of New York, to be as follows:

page_text: This Invention consists of improved mechanical arrangements or
appliances to be employed for the above-mentioned purposes, and the
principal features of novelty consist,―
First. In the use of intersecting knives for dividing or cutting the
material.
Secondly. In the feed motion for advancing the material through the
machine.
And, thirdly. In the general combination of the entire mechanism
for producing the articles in a finished state at one operation.
The following is an example of the means by which the above objects
may be accomplished:-To two plates which are fixed in the machine,
the several parts whereof are mounted in a suitable framing, the
punching, cutting, folding, and embossing mechanism are fixed, also
a cutting block on the lower plate. The cutting block with its folder
made of a thin piece of steel works in a groove, and its button holes,
also moveable blocks which slide backwards and forwards in a slot by
means of a cam and spring. The knives are screwed to the cutting
blocks and stand a slight distance from them for the purpose of
embossing, and are packed with paper to receive the embossing. The
embossers are fixed on the top plate, and a piece of wood strikes the
paper over and prepares it for folding. The end knives on the upper
plate are made tapering for the twofold purpose of giving a shear cut,
and also to allow the back end thereof to cut before the fore end and
the upper knife to act at the proper time, the blocks being so arranged
as to open or separate for that purpose as the platen of the machine
descends. The cutting edges of one pair of knives extend through or
across the cutting edges of another knife, and this intersection of the
cutting edges forms an important feature in this Invention, as it ensures
a clean cut of the material.
I now proceed to describe the feed motion before referred to. It
consists of a crank fixed to a shaft, a rod, and a feed wheel with a
slotted arm. At each revolution of the shaft the slotted arm of the
feed wheel raises and lowers; there is also a hollow wheel with a rim
around it. Another wheel is fitted in the above wheel, and this second
wheel has an opening formed therein, and is provided with an arm or
pawl set out of the centre of the said wheel which presses against the
rim of the former wheel. When the aforesaid arm moves upwards it

page_text: breaks the contact of the inner wheel with the rim of the outer wheel; .
a reverse movement brings the rim again into contact so that the two
wheels move together, and by these means an intermittent rotary
motion is imparted to the feed shaft and the other parts of the.
mechanism. A feed table is fixed to the machine over which the roll.
of paper passes at the proper speed and time by suitable mechanism.
The operations of the above mechanism are as follows:-The material
is first operated upon to represent stitching, then creased for folding
the button holes, punched, and the ends cut off to the desired shape;
the article is then discharged from the machine and another feed of
paper supplied and operated upon as before, and so on in succession.
Finally the article is passed by an endless travelling belt between rollers
for finishing it.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Benjamin Browne in the Great Scal Patent Office
on the 26th September 1868.
TO ALL TO. WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, BENJAMIN
BROWNE, of No. 49, King William Street, in the City of London, Civil
Engineer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Twenty-sixth day of March, in the
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-eight, in the
thirty-first year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors,
give and grant unto me, the said Benjamin Browne, Her special
licence that I, the said Benjamin Browne, my executors, administrators,
and assigns, or such others as I, the said Benjamin Browne, my
executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with,
and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during
the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use,
exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and
Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for
"IMPROVED MACHINERY FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF COLLARS, CUFFS, AND
OTHER ARTICLES OF DRESS MADE OF PAPER OR PAPER AND CLOTH COMBINED,"
a communication from. abroad by William Nathan Throckmorton, of
the City and State of New York, upon the condition (amongst others)

page_text: that I, the said Benjamin Browne, my executors or administrators, by
an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands
and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the
said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed,
and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within
six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said
Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Benjamine Browne, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in
and by the following statement, that is to say :-
This Invention consists of improved mechanical arrangements or
appliances to be employed for the above-mentioned purposes, and the
principal features of novelty consist,-
First. In the use of intersecting knives for dividing or cutting the
material.
Secondly. In the feed motion for advancing the material through the
machine.
And, thirdly. In the general combination of the entire mechanism
for producing the articles in a finished state at one operation.
The following is an example of the means by which the above objects
may be accomplished:-To two plates which are fixed in the machine,
the several parts whereof are mounted in a suitable framing, the
punching, cutting, folding, and embossing mechanism are fixed, also
a cutting block on the lower plate. The cutting block with its folder
made of a thin piece of steel works in a groove, and its button holes,
also movable blocks which slide backwards and forwards in a slot by
means of a cam and spring. The knives are screwed to the cutting
blocks and stand a slight distance from them for the purpose of
embossing, and are packed with paper to receive the embossing. The
embossers are fixed on the top plate, and a piece of wood strikes the
paper over and prepares it for folding. The end knives on the upper
plate are made tapering for the twofold purpose of giving a shear cut,
and also to allow the back end thereof to cut before the fore end, and
the upper knife to act at the proper time, the blocks being so arranged
as to open or separate for that purpose as the platen of the machine
descends. The cutting edges of one pair of knives extend through or

page_text: across the cutting edges of another knife, and the intersection of the.
cutting edges forms an important feature in this Invention, as it ensures
a clean cut of the material.
"
I now proceed to describe the feed motion before referred to. It
consists of a crank. fixed to a shaft, a rod, and a feed wheel with a
slotted arm.
At each revolution of the shaft the slotted arm of the
feed wheel raises and lowers; there is also a hollow wheel with a rim
around it. Another wheel is fitted in the above wheel, and this second
wheel has an opening formed therein, and is provided with an arm or
pawl set out of the centre of the said wheel, which presses against the
rim of the former wheel. When the aforesaid arm moves upwards it
breaks the contact of the inner wheel with the rim of the outer wheel;
a reverse movement brings the rim again into contact so that the two
wheels move together, and by these means an intermittent rotary motion
is imparted to the feed shaft and the other parts of the mechanism. A
feed table is fixed to the machine, over which the roll of paper passes
at the proper speed and time by suitable mechanism.
The operations of the above mechanism are as follows:-The material
is first operated upon to represent stitching, then creased for folding,
the button holes punched, and the ends cut off to the desired shape;
the article is then discharged from the machine and another feed of
paper supplied and operated upon as before, and so on in succession."
Finally the article is passed by an endless travelling belt between
rollers for finishing it.
And in order to explain this Invention as completely as possible,
I now proceed to describe the best means I am acquainted with
for carrying it into practical effect, reference being had to the
illustrative Sheet of Drawings accompanying these presents, and to
the numeral figures and letters of reference marked thereon, as
follows:-

page_text: enlarged view of feed clutch and other parts; Figure 7, plan of knife
for cutting collars with unparallel top and bottom sides. Like parts
are denoted by like letters at all the Figures of the Drawing wherever
such parts appear or can be seen.
It is sufficient to describe the adaptation of this machine to the
manufacture of collars, it only being necessary to alter the configuration
of the knives and other parts in connection therewith to render it
suitable to make other articles of a like nature.
And in order to fully comprehend this Invention I will begin by
describing X as the frame of the machine, into which is fitted pittman
S connected to excentric S by excentric rod S³; shaft S carries
excentric S¹ and cam So for feed motion; also fly-wheel S and driving.
pullies S are ways to keep pittman S* steady; S7 is feed connection to
main shaft to produce feed motion. Metal plate A¹ (Figure 4) with
its knives, female button holes, dies, and folding ridge complete is
secured to bed of frame X by screws A2. Metal plate A (Figure 5).
with its knives, male punches, embosser, and appurtenances complete is
screwed to pittaman S in a like manner. To the lower cutting block B.
(Figure 4) which is screwed on to A¹ pieces of steel arc screwed,
making the lower knives C, and are made to stand about th of an
inch higher than the cutting block B, so as to allow for paper packing
to emboss on. Also attached to plate A' are the sliding knives D
which move in slot E backward and forward on the descent and asent
of the pittman, being thrown open by the cams F and F coming in
contact, and being shut by spring g, which opening and shutting is
for the purpose of allowing the upper knives attached to plate A¹ to
intersect the lower knives of plate A', so as to ensure a clean cut by
preventing the article hanging in any part. H is a ridge set in a
groove to break the paper for the fold; I, the female button holes. To
upper plate A is screwed block J carrying embosser K; for stitching
collar into block J is set a piece of wood K' to strike paper over H to
break it for the fold, and male punches L to punch the botton holes.
Also to plate A is screwed the longitudinal knife M. to cut the collar
lengthwise, which longitudinal knife is intersected by the knives
employed for forming the ends of the collar in such a way that the
cutting edge of none of the knives is broken as they protrude or cross
the cutting edges of one another, as one will be deeper or lower than
the other, and the oue follows and cuts immediately after the other.

page_text: This intersecting is for the purpose of compensating for the spring
which it is necessary to have in the knives so that they may give an
casy cut.
Also attached to plate A are blocks N carrying the said end
knives P to cut the end of the collar. The upper end of knives P
extends through an opening R of the knife M for the purpose above
described, and the lower end of the knife P commences its cut in what
would be waste portion of the sheet of paper. The paper in long
roles is put over the table Ts, and guided by guayes T until it comes
between the feed wheels T, which are then pressed firmly together by
set screws in standards; these feed shafts T and T are geared together
by cog wheels T°; T" are standards for shaft. Feed mechanism T is
keyed on to shaft T. On the revolution of the main shaft SS feed rod S
raises and falls carrying arm S8 with it, giving an intermittent rotary
motion to the feed. T is a hollow wheel, into which is fitted another
wheel T with a section T cut out of it on a line a little from its centre,
into which is fitted an arm or pawl Ts which presses against the rim
of T by pressure of a small spring T. It is evident that by the pawl
being placed out of the centre on the movement upward of arm S
wheel T' moves the pawl away from rim of T, but on being moved
the other way it presses sufficiently hard to carry wheel T with it.
T and T is friction to keep T from moving to freely.
The paper
being properly adjusted in the feed and its appurtenances, the first end
of the roll lays over the longitudinal knives, and the paper is more
properly kept in its place by a striper W screwed to the frame of the
machine. The machine is now set in motion, and the pittman S* gocs
down carrying all its apparatus on to the paper. The longitudinal
knife M being shearing, as also the end knives P, it is evident that
their lower ends will strike and cut the paper first, and each of them
being longer than than any line of the collar under formation establish
their first cut in that portion of the collar which would be waste. The
continued downward descent causes them to cut a long thin length,
and as the knife M has cut part the point of meeting Y of the sectional
knives D and C, the cams F and F strike and cause the sectional
knife D to fly back in its slot E, and allow the end knife P to pass
through the opening, thus making a clean cut on three sides of the
collar; at the same descent of the pittman the male button holes L
enter the female F, the wood K' strikes paper over H for breaking
the collar along the line of fold, and the embosser K strikes the collar
over the. the packing and imitates the stitching. Thus the collar is all
.

page_text: formed except being detached from the roll, and the continual revolution
of the shaft S causes pittman S to rise, at same time throws down
arm S of the feed wheel T, causing wheel To to feed-in sufficient
paper for making the next collar. On the next descent of the pittman
the collar already formed is cut from the roll by the knife M, which
cut forms the bottom of the collar, and the same cut does for the top
of the one that is being formed; thus each descent of the pittman forms
a complete collar, and the only thing to be done is the rolling. The
collar now falls from the knife into the incline ways V (Figure 1), and
thence into the endless belt V¹ revolving around the pullies V²; it
is thence carried by a belt between pullies V3 and V³, and forced by
them through lip Vinto rollers V³, whence it is shot on to the floor
below ready for boxing. All the waste is cut clear at the same time
the collar is detached, and falls to the floor, while the collar passes on
to the rollers.
In reference to Figure 7, for cutting irregular sides for the top
and bottom of the collar, the arrangement is the same as that above
described, except that the knife M has two cutting edges, and there
is an extra knife Z arranged along the side of the knife C to take the
other cutting edge of the knife M. Between the knives C and Z the
waste passes to the floor, and the collar passes over the knife Z to
the roolers. In changing the style or size of the knife it is only
necessary to lower the pittman and bring the cutting and other
apparatus together; then take out the screws A and A³, lift the
pittman, and the set of knives and other parts at top and bottom come
out together, and are firmly held by their different parts together, and
are ready to put in in the same way, occupying but the shortest possible
time in changes. Power may be communicated to the endless belt
and rollers either by connection to the collar machine or by an
independent belt, it only being necessary to run them fast enough to
take the collars out of the way at the proper time.
What is claimed as of this Invention intended to be secured by the
herein-before in part recited Letters Patent is as follows:-
First. The knives C in combination with the sliding or yielding
knives D.
Second. The knives P and M or knives whose cutting edges shall
extend through or across the cutting edges of one another, or knives
to cut one part of an article that shall have their cutting edges above

page_text: or below the knives employed to cut the other part of the said article
at the point of intersection.
Third. The combination of the knives M, P, C, and D.
Fourth. The knives M, P, C, and D, in combination with button
holing, embossing, and breaking for the fold.
Fifth. The endless belt V in combination with the pullies V and V*
and rollers Vs for rolling the collar.
Sixth. The same in combination with the cutting, breaking, punching,
and stitching apparatus.
Seventh. The feed arrangement T, T', T, and its appurtenances in
combination with catching the paper in narrow rollers T", friction T",
gearing To, table and guages T and T.
Eighth. The same in combination with that already described.
Ninth. The removable plates A' and A, each carrying its cutting,
punching, embossing, and breaking apparatus, when used for the
purpose of expediting the changing of the knives to different sizes.
Tenth. The general arrangement of the machine.
In witness whereof, I, the said Benjamin Browne, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, this Twenty-sixth day of September, in
the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-
eight.
BENJ". BROWNE.
BROWNE. (L.8.)