Improvements in the Manufacture of Plaited or Tucked Woven Fabrics and in Apparatus therefor.
Year: 1898

page_text: Improvements in the Manufacture of Plaited or Tucked Woven
Fabrics and in Apparatus therefor.
I, EDWARD HARDON BURROW, of Fulwood, Preston, in the County of Lancaster;
Manager, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to the manufacture of plaited fabrics, the object being
to weave the plaits across the piece.
The invention consists in weaving at required intervals with part only of the
warn the remainder of the cloth being woven with all the warp, the take up
retaining catch being raised at the end of each interval above named.
Thus a cross stripe of the required width is woven which at the first beat up
after recommencing the interweaving of all the warp with the weft is pushed
up into a tubular cross stripe which is flattened down into a plait.
The warp employed for the plaits must be wound on a separate beam.
In carrying my invention into practice I employ a separate part of the shedding
device, (say) a dobby, for weaving the plaits as above described and one of the
hooks in this part of the dobby is connected to the taking up retaining ratchet
or catch so that as soon as this part has finished its work the said catch is raised
out of action as above described.
This part of the dobby is set in motion by a pulley or wheel carried by the
cross rail of the loom and driven by the taking up motion. In this wheel are
arranged at the desired distances apart a series of pegs or fingers which come in
contact with and lift a lever, the other end of which is so connected to the plait
weaving part of the dobby, as to set it in motion when moved by one of the said
pegs or fingers.
1000
Improvements in the Manufacture of Plaited or Tucked Woven
Fabrics and in Apparatus therefor.
I, EDWARD HARDON BURROW, of Fulwood, Preston, in the County of Lancaster,
Manager, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner
the same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement:-
This invention relates to the manufacture of plaited fabrics, the object being
to weare the plaits across the piece.

page_text: The invention consists principally in weaving, at required intervals, with
part only of the warp, the remainder of the cloth being woven with all the warp,
the take-up catch being raised up out of action at the end of each interval whilst
the portion of the warp only is being woven to form the plait and dropped again
into gear whilst the interval is woven with the whole warp, and thus a cross
stripe of the required width is woven with (say) half the warp, which, at the
first beat-up after recommencing the interweaving of all the warp, is pushed up
into a tubular cross stripe and flattened down into a plait; and the manner
in which the invention is to be performed or carried into practical effect will be
readily understood on reference to the sheet of drawings hereunto annexed
and the following explanation thereof.
Fig. 1 on the drawings is an end elevation and Fig. 2 a partial front view
of so much of a dobby" loom as is necessary to illustrate my invention.
a is part of the frame of the loom, the lathe or slay, e the crankshaft, d the
cloth beam or roller, and e the emery or taking-up roller, f is the ordinary warp
beam.
For the purposes of my invention I have a separate beam 9 for the warp which
is employed for weaving the plaits, and I weight this beam 7 much lighter than
the ordinary warp beam f is weighted.
66
I employ two sets of healds h and h* one set for each warp, and I employ a
double lift dobby i (or other equivalent device) for shedding the same, one of the
jacks" of which (behind or in front of the jack r) is connected by a cord
with the ratchet or catch of the taking-up motion in such a way that when such
jack is actuated as usual by the pattern chain it can raise the catch up out
of action, and drop it down again into action at the required intervals above
mentioned, and as hereafter described.
"
Another "jack" in the dobby marked on the drawing is connected say by
the cord with the driving catch s which actuates the barrel t of the "lattice"
or peg chain which sheds the healds for weaving the plait so as to raise the
said driving catch s at the required intervals as hereinafter described.
This particular "jack" r is set into action by a pulley or wheel 7 carried by
the cross rail of the loom and driven by an endless strap or band m from the
emery or taking-up roller c. In the face of this pulley 7 are arranged at the
required distances apart a series of pegs or fingers n which come into contact with
and lift a lever o the other end of which is connected by a cord p directly or in-
directly with the hook or as shewn with the "feeler" p¹ of the jack last above
named, which by means of its connecting cord lowers the driving catch s that
actuates the barrel t which works the chain or lattice *, so that, whenever one
of the pegs n acts on the lever o it drops the catchs by the ordinary motion of
the dobby so as to set the lattice in motion.
The particular "lag" of the lattice which is at the top when the catch s is
raised is so pegged as to keep on shedding all the warps alternately so as to
make plain cloth continuously so long as the required interval of double warp
cloth is being woven, and so as to allow the taking up catch k to remain in gear
and to take up the cloth; but when a plait is to be commenced the taking-up
catch is raised as above described by the next stroke of the catch s which
drives the lattice barrel when the said catch s has been allowed to fall into action
again, and at the first beat up after the desired length of plait fabric has been
woven the plait is pushed up into a tubular plait and the interweaving of weft
with the whole of the warp again goes on for the required interval.
In commencing to weave the plait the taking up catch is lifted out of gear
so as to stop the taking up of the cloth, as soon as the barrel catch s is dropped
into gear and sets the lattice into action actuating the healds for the slack
warps only which form the plaits, the beating un still going on and after the
required length of single cloth for the plait has been woven the barrel catch s
is lifted out of gear by a missing peg on one of the lags allowing the "jack" r
to fall in the usual way; and the taking-up catch for the cloth is simul-

page_text: taneously dropped into gear by the pattern chain dropping its jack also, the
interweaving of all the warps with the weft and the taking up of the cloth then
proceeds until another plait is required and so on alternately.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said in-
vention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is:-
First: The method of weaving fabrics with tubular plaits or tucks across
the same at desired intervals substantially as hereinbefore described, and
Secondly: The improved apparatus for effecting such object substantially as
hereinbefore described and illustrated by the drawings annexed.
Dated this 6th day of October 1898.
GEO. DAVIES & SON,
Agents for the Applicant, 4, St. Ann's Square, Manchester.