Improvements in Hem Stitch Sewing Machines.
Year: 1898

page_text: Improvements in Hem Stitch Sewing Machines.
I, SAMUEL HICHOX WHEELER, of Bridgeport, in the County of Fairfield, State
of Connecticut, United States of America, President of the Wheeler & Wilson
Manufacturing Company, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as
follows
_
It is customary in hemming handkerchiefs, doilies, towels, and the like and in
the manufacture of personal wearing apparel, to finish the hemming in what
is known as "hem-stitching," or so as to leave open spaces in the body of the
material next the inner edge of the hem.
The production of hematitch handkerchiefs gives employment to a very large
number of people, and this work is at present done mostly in foreign countries,
and in such work some of the threads in the body of the fabric, both warp and
weft, are drawn out, for handkerchief work near both sides and ends of the hand-
kerchief where the hemstitch openings are to appeal, portions of the weft being
left without warp to cross them and portions of the warp being left without weft to
cross them, and these threads I shall hereafter designate "tie threads "
A hemstitch wherein the threads are drawn out, presents an opening which
is considerably elongated in a direction at right angles to the hem Heretofore
sewing machines have been devised for hemstitching, but so far as I am aware,
they have operated to form the elongation in the body of the fabric in a direction
parallel to the hem or in the direction of the length of the same, and so do not
imitate hand-work My machine is designed to imitate hand-work, and to this
end I have provided devices whereby the needle, when in the material, has given
to it a lateral movement, substantially at right angles to the inner edge of the
hem at the stitching point, to thus displace some of the threads m the body of the
material and form elongated openings, leaving between the adjacent openings
only the tie threads, the latter threads being caught together in groups by the
needle thread to leave well defined open spaces
The lateral movement for the needle bar and needle while in the material 18
effected by a pattern cam, it moving a vibrating needle gate, in which the needle
bai 18 reciprocated
Having thus stated the principle of my invention, I will proceed now to describe
a mode in which I have contemplated applying that principle
The bed plate has an overhanging arm provided with a head, provided at its
fiont end with a face plate.
Between the head and face plate is a grate adapted to be vibrated horizontally
about suitable vertical pivots for a limited distance, said gate deriving its vibrating
movement from a link formed of several pieces, and connected by a screw to the
said gate, the inner end of the said link being connected with a stud having a
block-like foot which enters a slot of rock am having at its upper end a stud or
pivot, entering loosely a bearing, the lower end of the arm having a roller or
other stud

page_text: The gate has suitable bearing for the needle-bar having an eye-pointed needle,
and this needle-bar in practise will be reciprocated vertically in its bearings in
said gate by any usual or suitable devices at the end of the needle-bar actuating
shaft, preferably a crank-pin and link
The needle-bar actuating shaft has an attached bevel gear which engages a
bevel gear mounted loosely on a stud held in a cover plate, attached to the ann,
said latter gear 'having an attached pinion
The needle-bar shaft is provided with, it will be supposed, two cranks which
actuate like connecting rods engaging respectively two cianks on the under shatt
of the bed plate provided at its front end with a disk having a ciauk-pin, which
through a short shaft and suitable gearing, 1otates a shaft and causes it, by a
suitable device at its inner end, to rotate a loop taker or shuttle in a raceway,
eaid loop taker or shuttle co-operating with the needle to form a stitch
The under shaft has fast on it a pinion which engages and 1otates a toothed
wheel fixed to a second under shaft which carried a pattern surface or cam, to
be described.
A rock shaft, 16 provided mounted on suitable pivot studs, and provided near
one end with an arm jointed to the rear end of the feed bar, having a serrated
dog to engage the underside of and move the material.
The rock shaft at its rear end has an arm which is jointed to a lever provided
at its free end, with a stud having a shoe or block to enter a groove in an arc
shaped feed rocker fast on one end of a, short shaft said short shaft having an
attached arm provided with a stud or finger,, which is engaged and operated by
the said pattern surface or cam.
The 1ock shaft lever has pivoted to it the lower end of a link jointed to an arm
of a second short rock shaft having a handle by which to raise or lower the rock
shaft lever to vary the length of the stitch, the nearer the stud to the centre of
oscillation of the shaft the shorter, the stitch.
The take-up for the needle thread, may be actuated by any suitable cam, on
the needle-bar actuating shaft
A stud is provided at one end of the before mentioned link with a thumb or
clamping nut by which the position of the foot of the stud may be vailed in the
groove of the rock arm to determine the extent of the lateral throw of the needle-
bai gate
The parts so far described in detail are now in use in sewing machines of the
well known Wheeler and Wilson type
The toothed wheel which is rotated once for each three rotations of the shaft,
has connected to or forming part of it, a cam, said cam having a cam groove in
which enters the finger or stud, of the short arm before referred to The wheel
and cam are fast on the second undershaft which rotates in suitable bearings said
shaft having at its front end a second pattern surface or cam, which acts on an arm
of a front rock shaft, having an attached arm, on which rests the free end of the
feeding device or bar, and it will be obvious that the said feeding
device may be so actuated, by this pattern surface or cam with relation
to the cam groove, as to lift the feeding device when it is being moved either
forward or backward by the feed rockers, and that consequently the said feeding
device may be made to feed the material either forward or backward as the figure
comprising the stitch demands.
The finger or stud of the short shaft rests on a high part of the pattern surface
or cam foi producing the longitudinal feeding movement, and the needle up and
out of the goods, said needle having just risen from the hem of the material, that
stitch being the last stitch of the hem stitch and in this position, the high part of
the pattern surface or cam is supposed to act on the arm of the front rock shaft
and hold up the feeding device in contact with the material
Now, as the cams are rotated the entrance of the finger or stud into the low or
second part of the cam, next behind the high or first part effects, through the feed
rocker a longitudinal movement of the feeding device to effect a forward feed of

page_text: the material, said forward feed stroke terminating as the finger or stud reaches
the bottom of the depression or incline (low or second part) said feeding device
remaining forward and at rest and raised until the said finger or stud reaches the
third part.
Now, if the next stitch be a forward stitch, the feeding device would have to
be dropped, so that it might be drawn back under the material, leaving it at
rest, but as the second stitch is to be backward stitch, the pattern surface or cam
continues to act on the arm of the front rock shaft to hold up the feeding device in
contact with the material, while a high part of the cam groove as between the
third and fourth point or parts and acts to turn the feed rocker backward and
draw the said feeding device in a direction to feed the material backward. This
backward feed stroke terminates at the latter point, and the cam from this point
to the fifth point or part holds the feed device in its backward position.
The cam, in its further rotation, brings the depression or sixth point or part
against the finger er stud, which results in again moving the feed rocker in a
direction to move the feeding device forward a second time, the said feeding device
through these three movements not having released its hold upon the material
At the end of the second forward movement of the feeding device, the said
device is stopped in its forward position, while the part of the cam from the asth
to the seventh point or part acts on the finger or stud and then preparatory to the
eighth point or part of the cam again operating to move the feed rocker, the feed-
ing device must be dropped from its engagement with the work, and this is done
by the cam depression of the pattern surface or cam, arriving under the roller or
other stud carried by the arm of the front rock shaft, letting it drop away from
and release the material while the eighth point or part of said pattern surface or
cam operates, and said feeding device is held depressed until the ninth point or
second high part of said cam, again comes under the finger or stud, and as 800n
as the said high part acts on said finger or stud, the high part of the cam has
again acted on the arm of the front rock shaft to again raise the feeding device on
the under side of the material, where it remains ready for the next forward stitch
In this way, it will be seen that the feeding device rises, engages the material,
moves it forward, remains holding the material, while the feeding
device, is moved backwardly and while yet in engagement with the
material, the feeding device is for a second time moved forward, and thereafter,
it releases the material and comes back into its starting position, all these move-
ments being necessary to make the hem stitch
The attached pinion or gear engages and rotates a cam gear wheel about a stud,
carried by the cap or cover plate above referred to
This gear has a peculiar cam path which is entered by a stud or roll said cam-
path giving to the needle-bar peculiar to and fro motions to effect the vibration of
the needle while in the material, substantially as hereinafter more particularly
set forth.
The cam gear wheel is 1otated once to every three rotations of the needle-bar
actuating shaft, so that a three stitch figure is made for each rotation of the
cam gear
When the stud or roll stands at the initial point, the needle-bar will be in
substantially its highest position, it having, it will be supposed, just risen from
the hem near its edge, and having left the needle thread locked at that point by
the under thread
Now, as the cam gear 18 turned, the roll is moved to the left to swing the needle
gate in the came direction, and at the same time the needle descends and penetrates
the body of the material just outside the edge of the hem, a feed of the maternal
away from the operator, or in the forward direction, having taken place while the
needle is up and out of the material, the needle entering the material, as described,
about the time the second part of the cam meets the roll.
In the further movement of the cam, a projection or third part the needle being
then in the material, causes the needle gate to be vibrated so that the said needle

page_text: then in the material is caused to displace the threads of the material parallel with
the hem, moving them bodily away from the edge of the hem, thus leaving an
opening the length of which is substantially at night angles to the line of feed,
and leaving an elongated space, the needle rising from the material about the
time the fourth part of the cam gets to the roll, and while the needle 18 again out
of the material, the feeding device is lifted by the pattern surface or cam, and
then the cam groove of the wheel by acting on the finger referred to, operates the
feeding device as will be described, while on its backward stroke or toward the
operator, and as a result thereof the material is fed backwardly for one stitch,
when the needle again descends through the material, and while in the material
the toe or fifth part acts to vibrate again the needle to and fro with relation to the
edge of the hem packing the threads in the single thickness fabric, parallel with
the hem to make another elongated opening, the length of which 18 in a direction
at right angles to the inner edge of the hem, the two loops of needle thread at
the two points of the needle's descent being caught and locked by the under thread.
After the needle has made its second descent and it has been vibrated, as
described, in the material, the needle-bar is elevated and the needle gate is swung
by the cam to the right, until the needle again 18 over the hem near its edge, and
while the needle is up and out of the material, the forward feed of the material
takes place, the feeding device being raised to engage the material and feed it
backwardly, not having yet released the material, and the needle again descends
through the hem, and has its loop of thread locked by the under thread.
At this descent of the needle bar, and while the needle is in the folded part of
the hem the gate is not moved laterally, and when the needle rises from the stitch
the three-stitch or hem-stitch figure is completed, leaving the needle again in its
starting position, the gate carrying the needle being thereafter vibrated, so that
the needle at its next descent may again enter the material of single thickness
as has been herein before described
This operation 18 repeated stitch after stitch
The needle in its vibration in the material moves some of the threads of the
material parallel to the inner edge of the hem closer together, at the ends of
the openings made by the needle.
The threads are compacted together at one end of the series of elongated spaces
made by the needle when in the material and while the relative positions of the
Heedle and material are changed laterally to the length of the seam
The cam device as herein described is of such shape as to vibrate or move the
needle laterally while in the material in one and then in a reverse direction, and
such movement of the needle while in the material would result in sliding some
of the threads laterally along what I, for lack of a better term, designate as tie
threads, and in compacting said threads as at each end of the series of openings
This invention 18 not limited to the exact devices described for imparting to
the needle a lateral movement while in the material, nor to the exact devices
described for imparting to the needle-bar its vertical movements; as instead
I may employ any other equivalent mechanical devices; nor is this invention
limited to the use of mechanical devices adapted for the production of only a
three stitch figure such as specifically described, for it will be obvious to those
skilled in the art that other usual figures of four, six or other numbers of stitches
may be made by a change of cam-grooves as stated.
Dated this 6th day of June 1898
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co,
45, Southampton. Buildings, London, WC,
Agents for the Applicant.

page_text: Improvements in Hem Stitch Sewing Machines,
I, SAMUEL HICKOY WHEELER, of Bridgeport, in the County of Fairfield, State
of Connecticut, United States of America, President of the Wheeler & Wilson
Manufacturing Company, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in
what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascer-
tained in and by the following statement.—
It is customary in hemming handkerchiefs, doilies, towels, and the like and in
the manufacture of personal wearing apparel, to finish the hemming in what
is known as "hem-stitching," or, so as to leave open spaces in the body of the
material next the inner edge of the hem.
The production of hemstitch handkerchiefs gives employment to a very large
number of people, and this work is at present done mostly in foreign countries,
and in such work some of the threads in the body of the fabric, both warp and
weft, are drawn out, for handkerchief work near both sides and ends of the hand-
kerchief where the hemistitch openings are to appear, portions of the weft being
left without waip to cross them and portions of the waip being left without wett
to cross them, and these threads I shall hereafter designate the threads "
66
A hemstitch wherein the threads are diawn out, presents an opening which
18 considerably elongated in a direction at right angles to the hem Heretofore
sewing machines have been devised for hemstitching, but so far as I am aware,
they have operated to form the elongation in the body of the fabric in a direction
parallel to the hem or in the direction of the length of the same, and so do not
imitate hand-work My machine is designed to imitate hand-work, and to this
end I have provided devices whereby the needle, when in the material, has given
to it a lateral movement, substantially at right angles to the inner edge of the
hem at the stitching point, to thus displace some of the threads in the body of the
material and form elongated openings, leaving between the adjacent openings
only the tie threads, the latter threads being caught together in groups by the
needle thread to leave well defined open spaces.
The lateral movement for the needle bar and needle while in the material 18
effected by a pattern cam, it moving a vibrating needle gate, in which the needle
bar is reciprocated
Having thus stated the principle of my invention, I will proceed now to describe
a mode in which I have contemplated applying that principle.
In the accompanying drawings illustrating my invention,
Figure 1, in side elevation partially broken out, shows a sewing machine
embodying my invention
Figure 2 an underside view of the machine shown in Figure 1.
Figure 3 a detail relating to the feed. said figure being a partial section on
the line - Figure 2
Figure 4 shows the feed-bar.
Figure 5 18 a section on the line Figure 2, to show the shape of the cam
for raising and lowering the feed-bar
Figure 6 shows the shape of the pattern cam for moving the needle-bar laterally
both above the material and also while in the material.
Figure 7 shows the shape of the pattern cam for controlling the feeding move-
ment of the feeding device
Figure 8 is a plan view enlarged, of the pressei-feet carried by the presser-bar.
Figure 9 a much enlarged diagrammatical view of the compound stitch.
Figure 10 a detail showing part of a hemstitch handkerchief with several
titches and

page_text: Figure 11 a detail showing the body of the fabric without the hem, with some
of the threads compacted at both ends of the slots made by the needle while in
the material.
A is the bed plate having an overhanging arm A¹ provided with a head A³,
provided at its front end with a face plate g
Between the head and face plate is a gate C adapted to be vibrated horizontally
about suitable vertical pivots for a limited distance, said gate deriving its vibrating
movement from a link C, shown as of several pieces, and connected by a screw 2 to
the said gate, the inner end of the said link being connected with a stud 12 having
a block-like foot which enters a slot 13 of an arm E having at its upper end a
stud or pivot 31, shown by dotted lines Figure 1, entering loosely a bearing 14³;
the lower end of the arm having a roller or other stud d
The gate C has suitable bearings for the needle-bar A having an eye-pointed
needle A, and this needle-bar in practise will be reciprocated vertically in its
bearings in said gate by any usual or suitable devices at the end of the needle-bar-
actuating shaft A³, preferably a crank-pin and link
The needle-bar actuating shaft A³ has an attached bevel gear which engages a
bevel gear mounted loosely on a stud held in a cover plate e³, partially broken
away in Figure 1, said gear having an attached pinion e.
The needle-bar shaft herein shown has, it will be supposed, two cranks which
actuate like connecting rods B, B³, engaging respectively two cranks on the
under shaft B' provided at its front end with a disc Bo having a crank-pin ",
which through a short shaft a and suitable gearing a¹, a³, a³ rotates a shaft a
and causes ft, by a suitable device at its inner end, to rotate a loop taker or
shuttle as in a raceway a³, said loop taker or shuttle co-operating with the needle
to form a stitch
The shaft B has fast on it a pinion f which engages and rotates a toothed
wheel fixed to a shaft herein designated n³, and carries a pattern surface or
cam, to be described
D is a rook shaft mounted on suitable pivot studs, and provided near one end
with an arm D* jointed to the rear end of the feed-bar C, having a serrated dog C¹
to engage the underside of and move the material.
The rock shaft at its rear and has an arm D¹ which is jointed to a lever D³ pro-
vided at its free end, see Figure 3, with a stud D³, having a shoe or block to
enter a groove D in an arc shaped feed rocker D fast on one end of a short
shaft D³, said shaft having an attached arm f provided with a stud or finger f
which is engaged and operated by the said pattern surface 1 cam carried by the
shaft n³
The lever D has pivoted to it the lower end of a link D³ jointed to an arm of a
short rock shaft Do having a handle D by which to raise or lower the lever Dª
to vary the length of the stitch the nearer the stud D13 to the centre of
oscillation of the shaft D³ the shorter the stitch.
B is the take-up for the needle thread, and in practise it may be actuated by
any suitable cam, not shown, on the needle-bar actuating shaft.
The stud 12 at one end of the link C5 has a thumb or clamping nut 20 by which
the position of the foot of the stud may be varied in the groove 13 of the rock
arm E to determine the extent of the lateral throw of the needle-bar gate.
The parts so far described in detail are now in use in sewing machines of the
well known Wheeler and Wilson type
The toothed wheel which 18 rotated once for every three rotations of the
shaft B', has connected to or forming part of it, a cam designated by the letter n¹
Figure 7, said cam having a cam groove n, in which enters the finger or stud f¹,
before referred to. The wheel f³ and cam are fast on shaft n which rotates in
bearings n³, said shaft having at its front end a second pattern surface or cam n
see Figures 2 and 5, which acts on an arm 75 of a rock shaft ne, having an attached
arm n', on which rests the free end of the feeding device or bar C, and it will be
obvious that the said feeding device may be so actuated, by this pattern surface

page_text: or cam n', with relation to the cam groove n, as to lift the feeding device when it
is being moved either forward or backward by the feed rocker 1, and that con-
sequently the said feeding device may be made to feed the material either forward
or backward as the figure comprising the stitch demands.
Referring to Figure 7 the finger or stud f¹ rests on a high part n of the pattern
surface or cam for producing the longitudinal feeding movement, and the
needle with the parts in the position Figure 7 is supposed to be up and out of
the goods, said needle having just risen from the hem of the material, that stitch
being the last stitch of the hem stitch; and in this position the high part of the
pattern surface or cam n 18 supposed to act on the arm n³ and hold up the feeding
device in contact with the material.
Now, as the cams n¹ and n' are rotated in the direction of the arrows on them
in Figures 7 and 5, the entrance of the finger ог stud finto
the low part of the cam, see Figure 7, next behind the high part n
effects, through the feed rooker D', a longitudinal movement of the feeding
device to effect a forward feed of the material, said forward feed stroke terminat-
ing as the finger or stud f¹ reaches the bottom of the depression or incline n³,
said feeding device remaining forward and at rest and raised until the said finger
or stud reaches about the point n10.
Now, if the next stitch be a forward stitch, the feeding device would have to
be dropped, so that it might be drawn back under the material, leaving it at rest,
but as the second stitch is to be a backward stitch, the pattern surface or cam n*
continues to act on the arm n³ to hold up the feeding device in contact with the
material, while a high part of the cam groove n, as between the points no and n",
acts to turn the feed rocker D backward and draw the said feeding device in a
direction to feed the material backward. This backward feed stroke terminates
at n, and the cam from n to n holds the feed device in its backward position.
The cam n' in its further rotation, brings the depression n¹³ against the finger oi
stud, which results in again moving the feed-rocker D' in a direction to move the
feeding device forward a second time, the said feeding device through these three
movements not having released its hold upon the material.
At the end of the second forward movement of the feeding device, the said
device is stopped in its forward position, while the part of the cam from n¹ to n
acts on the finger or stud fl, and then preparatory to the part n of the cam again
operating to move the feed rocker, the feeding device must be dropped from its
engagement with the work, and this is done by the cam depression of the pattern
surface or cam, arriving under the roller or other stud carried by the arm n³,
letting it drop away from and release the material while the part n¹ of said
pattern surface or cam operates, and said feeding device is held depressed until
the high part 16 of said cam, again comes under the finger or stud f¹, and as
soon as the said high part acts on said finger or stud, the high part of the cam n*
has again acted on the arm n to again raise the feeding device on the under
side of the material, where it remains ready for the next forward stitch In this
way, it will be seen that the feeding device rises, engages the material, moves it
forward, remains holding the material, while the feeding device 18 moved back-
wardly and while yet in engagement with the material, the feeding device is for a
second time moved forward, and thereafter, it releases the material and comes
back into its starting position, all these movements being necessary to make the
hem stitch.
el
The gear engages and rotates a gear h about a stud h², carried by the cap e³.
This gear has a peculiar cam path 63, best shown in Figures 1 and 6, which is
entered by a stud d, said cam-path giving to the needle-bar peculiar to and fro
motions to effect the vibration of the needle while in the material, substantially
as hereinafter more particularly set forth and claimed
The cam gear wheel is rotated once to every three rotations of the needle-bar
actuating shaft, so that a three stitch figure is made for each rotation of the cam
gear.

page_text: When the stud or roll stands at the initial point 30, see Figure 6, the needle-
bar will be in substantially its highest position, it having, it will be supposed,
Just 11sen from the hem m near its edge, and having left the needle thread m
locked at that point by the under thread m³, see the diagiam Figure 9
Now, as the cam gear wheel h is turned in the direction of the arrow, Figure 6,
the roll d is moved to the left to swing the needle gate in the same duection, and
at the same time the needle descends and penetrates the body of the material
just outside the edge of the hem as at mt, a feed of the material away from the
operator, or in the forward direction, having taken place while the needle is up
and out of the material, the needle entering the material, as described about the
time the second part 31 of the cam meets the 10ll d
In the further movement of the cam, a projection 32, the needle being then in
the material, causes the needle gate to be vibrated so that the said needle then
in the material 18 caused to displace the threads of the material parallel with
the hem, moving them bodily away from the edge of the hem, thus leaving an
opening the length of which is substantially at right angles to the line of feed,
and leaving an elongated space m³, see Figure 10, the needle rising from the
material about the time the part 33 of the cam gets to the roll d, and while the
needle 18 again out of the material, the feeding device is lifted by the pattern
surface or cam n, see Figures 2 and 5, and then the cam groove n of the wheel n¹
by acting on the finger f¹ referred to, operates the feeding device, as will be
described, while on its backward stroke, or toward the operator and as a result
thereof the material is fed backwardly for one stitch, as from mt to me, when the
needle again descends through the material, and while in the material the toe 34
acts to vibrate again the needle to and fro with relation to the edge of the threads
in the single thickness fabric, parallel with the hem to make another elongated
opening, the length of which is in a duection at right angles to the inner edge of
the hem, the two loops of needle thread at the two points of the needle's descent
being caught and locked by the under thread m³
After the needle has made its second descent and it has been vibrated, as
described, in the material, the needle bar is elevated and the needle gate is swung
by the cam 6 to the right, viewing Figure 1, until the needle again is over the
hem near its edge, and while the needle is up and out of the material, the forward
feed of the material takes place, the feeding device being raised to engage the
material and feed it backwardly, not having yet released the material, and the
needle again descends through the hem, as at m', and has its loop of thread
locked by the under thread m³
At this descent of the needle bar, and while the needle is in the folded part of
the hem the gate is not moved laterally, and when the needle rises from the
atitch m the three-stitch or hem-stitch figure is completed, leaving the needle
again in its starting position, the gate carrying the needle being thereafter
vibrated, so that the needle at its next descent may again enter the material of
single thickness as has been herein before described
This operation is repeated stitch after stitch
The diagram Figure 9 shows the stitches laid out to indicate the same clearly,
and in Figure 10, the thread is shown drawn up to set the stitch, and the openings
made by the needle are shown clearly with the "the threads s surrounded by the
threads of the stitch between the openings made by the needle.
"
The needle in its vibrations in the material moves some of the threads of the
material parallel to the inner edge of the hem closer together, as shown on
Figure 10 at the ends of the openings m³
In Figure 10 I have at m³ shown some of the threads compacted together at one
end of the series of elongated spaces m5 made by the needle when in the material
and while the relative positions of the needle and material are changed laterally
to the length of the seam.
The cam device as herein shown, 18 of such shape as to vibrate or move the
needle laterally while in the material in one and then in a reverse direction, and

page_text: such movement of the needle while in the material would result in sliding some
of the threads laterally along what I, for lack of a better term, designate as tie
threads, and in compacting said threads as at 4 at each end of the series of
openings, m³, as in Figure 11: but in the drawings, Figure 10, I have shown the
threads as compacted only at the inner ends of the said openings m³ for the com-
pacted threads at the outer ends of said openings are covered and concealed by the
inner edge of the hem
This invention is not limited to the exact devices shown for imparting to the
needle a lateral movement while in the material, nor to the exact devices shown
for imparting to the needle-har its vertical movements, as instead I may emplov
any other equivalent mechanical devices nor is this invention limited to the use of
mechanical devices adapted for the production of only a three stitch figure such
as specifically shown for it will be obvious to those skilled in the art that other
usual figures of four, six or other numbers of stitches may be made by a change of
cam grooves as stated
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I claim
is:-
The use in a hemstitch sewing machine, comprising a work support, a needle-
bar. an eye-pointed needle, complemental stitch-forming mechanism means to
recipiocate said needle and needle-bar vertically, a gate in which said needle-bar
is arranged to slide vertically, means to vibrate said gate horizontally about ver-
tical pivots which means includes a cam path h³ a pivoted arm and a link, the
car path being shaned substantially as described to impart to the rate, needle-
bar ond needle while the needle is in the fabric. a movement at right-angles to
the edge of the hem being stitched, to thereby displace laterally from the edge of
the hem some of the threads of the material being acted upon, of a presse1-foot and
a feed-dog to engage the fabric and hold it during the lateral movement of the
needle, and means for actuating said feed-dog comprising pattern cams to impart
to the fabric forward and backward movements of different lengths while the
needle is out of the fabric, said forward and backward movements given to the
fabric being transverse to the vibratory movements of the needle, substantially as
described.
2 The use in a machine for hem stitching, of the following instrumentalities,
namely Suitable stitch-forming mechanism, including a needle and means to
reciprocate it, a gate in which the needle bar carrying the needle is reciprocated.
a rotary cam having a plurality of acting surfaces, and connections actuated by
said acting surfaces and located between the said cam and said gate, for imparting
to said gate a plurality of movements at each revolution of said cam, whereby the
needle when in the fabric will be moved to displace the threads of the fabric
parallel to the line of stitching and to form onenings in said fabric at night angles
to the line of stitching, thereby to simulate drawn or hand-work, substantially as
described
Dated this 6th day
M
1000
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co,
45, Southampton Buildings, London, WC,
Agents for the Applicant