Improvements in Cut Pile Fabrics and in the Methods of Producing the same.
Year: 1889

page_text: Date of Application, 20th Aug., 1889
Complete Specification Left, 20th May, 1890-Accepted, 21st June, 1890
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Cut Pile Fabrics and in the Methods of Producing
the same.
I GUSTAVUS ADOLPHUS JOHN SCHOTT of the firm of Schoti Brothers Limited of
36 Richmond Road, Bradford in the County of York, Manufacturers do hereby
declare the nature of this Invention to be as follows:-
My Invention relates to cut pile fabrics and partly to fabrics having patterns or
ornamental effects produced by the contrast between the cut pile and the ground of
the fabric. In the production of such fabrics I use a loom which is provided with
cutting knives which are so actuated as to cut the pile weft as the weaving proceeds.
For the purposes of my Invention I prefer to use a loom constructed in accordance
with an invention in respect of which I made application for Letters Patent on
the Twelfth day of January in this current year such application bearing the
number 655.
In a loom so constructed thin knives or cutting wires are each hinged or
connected by one end to a knife bar which is mounted near the breast beam in
front of the reed. The other ends of the said knives or wires are extended forward
so as to pass through the reed and harness and are raised and lowered by the latter
so as to be crossed by the floats which are to be cut. Just at the time when the
reed is beating the weft close up the said knife bar is pushed forward toward the
reed and the floats of pile become severed at the time when they are being
beaten up.
By cutting the floating weft of each pick immediately after it has been woven into
the ground am enabled to produce fabrics having patterns and effects which could
not be obtained in hand cut fabrics as for example 1 produce fabrics having a cut
pile on both sides suitable to be used as curtains and for other purposes and I also
produce woollen and worsted coatings, trouserings and fabrics adapted for use in the
making of habiliments such cloths having the cut pile arranged in checks stripes or
other patterns. In the weaving of a double pile fabric I arrange for the weft floats
to appear to the desired extent on both faces of the cloth. Those of the floats which
are below the warp when in the loom are passed over the cutting instruments and are
severed when being beaten up such floats forming a pile on the lower face of the
cloth. The upper floats are cut in the same manner to form the pile in the upper
face of the cloth. The pile may be plain or be figured or arranged in stripes, checks,
spots or figures relieved by the uncut ground of the fabric but for some purposes
produce an ornamental effect by printing a pattern upon the warp in a suitably bold
style so that it appears in a subdued manner through the pile. As hereinbefore
indicated I produce cloths suitable for use in the making of garments and having
the cut pile relieved by plain ground so as to produce ornamental effects.
For some uses I subject the cloths so produced to ordinary processes such as wet
finishing milling and crabbing as in the cases of plain cloths. Although the result
of such processes is to mat together the cut pile to some extent the contrast between
the ground and the milled pile still remains and novel effects are thus obtained.
Such contrast may be made more distinct by employing yarns differing in respect
of material or colour or both for the cut pile and the ground as for example the
cut pile may consist of mohair and the ground be composed wholly or partly of
botany. I also produce novel fabrics of the velveteen class the cut pile consisting
of mohair alpaca, camel-hair or other similar animal hair. Previously to my
Invention such fabrics have been woven with a pile consisting of cotton or silk and
have been cut after removal from the loom but it has not been practically possible
to produce velveteens having piles composed of mobair or other animal hair owing

page_text: to the fact that the floating weft could not be cut by the means employed in the
cutting of cotton and silk velveteens. I am aware that coarse velveteens such for
example as cords have been produced with a wool or animal hair pile and have
been cut after removal from the loom but not comparatively fine fabrics of the
velveteen class. By cutting the pile of such fabrics in the loom I am enabled to
produce comparatively fine fabrics either plain or fancy or figured and to obtain a
greater variety of effect and a greater novelty as regards patterns and fancy effects
tban in the cases of ordinary cotton or silk velveteens the range of fancy effect
hitherto obtained being limited to comparatively small and regular patterns.
In
ordinary practice the cutting knife is not to be depended upon to pass over large
breaks in the continuity of the races of weft whereas when the fabric is cut in the
loom as it is woven such breaks may be of any desirable proportions.
In the
carrying of my Invention or parts of it into effect I may use the means set forth
in the specifications of inventions for which Letters Patent numbers 7417 of the
year 1887 and 7822 of the year 1888 have been granted to me in conjunction with
a certain Friedrich Hermann Wilke and in the Provisional Specification accompanying
an application made by me on the Second day of April in this current year such
application bearing the number 5604.
Dated this 19th day of August 1880
DUTTON & FULTON,
1, St. James Square, Manchester, Agents.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Cut Pile Fabrics and in the Methods of Producing
the same.
I GUSTAVUS ADOLPHUS JOHN SCHOTT, of the firm of Schott Brothers, Limited,
of 36 Richmond Road, Bradford, in the County of York, Manufacturers do
hereby declare the nature of this Invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following state-
ment and accompanying drawings:-
1
My Invention relates to cut pile fabrics and partly to fabrics having patterns
or ornamental effects produced by the contrast between the cut pile and the
ground of the fabric. In the production of such fabrics 1 in some cases use a
loom which is provided with cutting knives which are so actuated as to cut the
pile weft as the weaving proceeds. For the purposes of my Invention I prefer to
use a loom constructed in accordance with an invention in respect of which Letters
Patent dated the Twelfth day of January in the year 1889 and bearing the
number 655 have been granted to me. By cutting the floating weft of each pick
immediately after it has been woven into the ground or as it is being woven into
the ground I am enabled to produce fabrics having patterns and effects which
could not readily be obtained in hand cut fabrics. By this method I produce
fabrics having a cut pile on both sides suitable to be used as curtains and for
other purposes and also produce woollen and worsted coatings trouserings and
fabrics adapted for use in the making of habiliments such cloths having a plain
cut pile on both sides or having the cut pile on the face arranged in checks, stripes,
or other patterns. In the weaving of the double pile fabric I arrange for the
weft floats to appear to the desired extent on both faces of the cloth. Those of
the floats which are below the warp when in the loom are passed over the cutting
instruments and are severed when being beaten up such floats forming a pile on
the lower face of the cloth. The upper floats are cut in the same manner to form
the pile on the upper face of the cloth.
The manner in which the two piles are cut will be more readily understood when
reference is made to the accompanying drawings whereof Fig. 1 illustrates the
cutting of a pick of weft forming part of the pile on the upper face of the cloth
Fig. 2 illustrating the cutting of a pick of weft forming part of the pile on the

page_text: lower face of the cloth. In each of the two diagrams only one pick of weft is
represented to avoid confusion. In the said Figs. a a are the knives which have
been lowered so that the shuttle would pass over them the other knives being
raised out of the way as described in the Specification of my said former Invention.
The
warp ends are represented by b the knives and the warp ends being
represented in cross section. As the pick is beaten up the floats are severed as
indicated in the drawings with reference to the Specification of my said former
Invention. In the case of the under floats represented in Fig. 2 some of the cut
ends might be slightly pushed into the body of the cloth but they would come
out in the subsequent operations of brushing and finishing so that the pile would
appear upon both sides of the finished fabric. The pile may be plain or be figured
or arranged in stripes, checks spots or figures relieved by the uncut ground of
the fabric a Jacquard machine or suitable apparatus being employed to raise and
lower the warp ends and the knives in the order to produce the desired pattern
as will be well understood by the practical weaver. For some purposes I produce
a novel ornamental effect by printing a pattern upon the warp in a suitably bold
style so that it appears in a subdued manner through the pile or I produce such
effect by weaving the cloth with a figured ground using coloured or printed
warps and coloured or white or uncoloured weft. In either case the pile wefts
are uncoloured or are of an uniform colour the figured ground shewing through
the pile with a subdued effect. I may employ this figured ground in single faced
fabrics having a cut pile upon one side only and having the floats cut in any
suitable manner. The double faced pile fabric may also be ornamented by printing a
pattern either upon one side or upon both sides. In the latter case the pattern
should be reversed so that the effect is such as would be produced if the colours
of the pattern extended through from one face of the cloth to the other and
appeared equally upon both faces. As hereinafter mentioned I produce cloths
suitable for use in the making of garments. These cloths have a cut pile upon
both sides. The cut pile upon the face side may be plain or may be relieved by
plain ground so as to produce ornamental effects. The cut pile upon the back of
the cloth is preferably without figure. Such double faced cut pile cloths have
bygienic advantages not possessed by ordinary fabrics used for the purpose owing
to the fact that they retain the heat of the body without being excessively heavy
and act in a similar manner to furs when worn with the hairy side next to the
skin. For some uses I subject the cloths so produced to ordinary processes such
as wet finishing milling and crabbing as in the cases of plain cloths. Although
the result of such processes is to mat together the cut pile to some extent the
contrast between the ground and the milled pile still remains and novel effects
are thus obtained. Such contrast may be made more distinct by employing yarns
differing in respect of material or colour or both for the cut pile and the ground
as for example the cut pile may consist of mohair and the ground be composed
wholly or partly of botany. In the carrying of my Invention or parts of it into
effect I may use the means set forth in the Specifications of inventions for which
Letters Patent number 7417 of the year 1887 and 7822 of the year 1888 have
been granted to me in conjunction with a certain Friedrich Hermann Wilke or
in the Specification of an Invention for which Letters Patent number 5604 of
the year 1889 have been granted to me alone but I do not consider these last
named inventions to be suitable for use in the production of double faced cut pile
fabrics.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said Inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. The method of producing double faced pile fabrics by weaving the cloth with
floats upon both sides and cutting such floats in the beating up by the means and
in the manner substantially as set forth and indicated.
2. Weaving a cut pile fabric with pile floats on both sides of the fabric and cutting

page_text: the floats as each pick is beaten up by means of knives a which are operated so as to
sever each float in the manner substantially as set forth and indicated.
3. The double faced cut pilo fabric having a printed or figured ground produced
substantially in the manner and by the means herein set forth.
4. The cut pile velvet or fabric having a printed or figured ground as set forth.
5. The production of woollen and worsted coatings trouserings and other fabrics
used for clothing by weaving the cloth with pile floats upon both sides cutting the
pile floats in the loom and subjecting the cloth to ordinary or suitable finishing
processes substantially as set forth.
6. The method of producing figured fabrics composed wholly or partly of wool or
worsted or similar materials by weaving the fabric with pile floats upon both sides the
floats upon the face being arranged to form patterns or figures and by cutting the pile
floats during the weaving substantially as set forth.
Dated this 19th day of May 1890.
DUTTON & FULTON,
1, St. James Square, Manchester, Agents.