Improvements in the Connection Parts of Collars, Cuffs, Shirts, and other like Articles of Wearing Apparel.
Year: 1891

page_text: Date of Application, 23rd Apr., 1891
Complete Specification Left, 23rd Jan., 1892-Accepted, 27th Feb.. 1892
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION,
Improvements in the Connection Parts of Collars, Cuffs, Shirts, and
other like Articles of Wearing Apparel.
I, JAMES APPLEBY trading as Appleby and Company of Frederick Street, in
the City of Birmingham, Manufacturer do hereby declare the nature of this
invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to the button-hole parts of collars, collarettes, cuffs, shirts,
and other like articles of wearing apparel, and consists in so forming and arranging
the said button-hole parts, that their connection with a button, stud, or other
analogous fastener, is accomplished without the opening out, or bulging of the sides
of the said button hole parts, and further, that the attachment and detachment of
the articles fastened, is simply effected.
According to my invention, the button hole part consists of a worked slit,
piercing or opening, with a spherical or other enlargement at one or at both ends.
In carrying out one form of my invention in connection with the button hole part
at the back of a collar, I provide the said back with a horizontal slit or piercing, or
a piercing in the longer direction of the band of the collar, and with the said
piercing, provided at one end, with a spherical or other shaped enlargement, of the
size, or of about the size of the button, stud or head of the fastener employed, and
with the slit of the button hole of about the breadth of the shank of the said
fastener, whether the same be attachedly connected to the garment by sewing, or
by being threaded or passed through a second button-hole.
In connecting the collar to a button at the back, pass the enlargement onwardly
over the button, then slide the collar longitudinally from the said enlargement,
over the shank, which is taken into and up to the end of the piercing, which is of
considerably less breadth than that of the button or stud head, as the case may be,
hence the connecting of the collar to a button or stud.
When in this position, the ends of the collar, are buttoned to the front stud or
button in the usual manner, or the button holes at the front may be made alike unto
the button holes at the back. In this case, the enlargements of them are at the
inwardly directed end of the slit, so that the collar is pulled slightly forward, and
the enlargement passed over the button, and when released, the shank of the
said button takes into and up to the ends of the narrow parts, hence the connection.
The position of the back button hole, is out of the middle, or in other words, the
narrowed end of the contracted part, comes within the middle of the collar, or the
band thereof, whilst the enlarged part, and the narrow part adjacent to it, is disposed
out of the centre.
The button holes are preferably worked, although they may be metal or other
edged.
In button holes with double enlargements, I propose that the slit or piercing, or
button-holes as the case may be may have an enlargement at each end, with a
slight enlargement in the middle so that the collar can be connected by passing
either one or other of the primary enlargements over the button, and then drawing
the collar to an extent, so that the button or head shall lie within the secondary
enlargement in the middle of the narrow part.
My new and improved button holes may be directed vertically or obliquely,
instead of horizontally as described.
In disconnecting a collar from a garment, it is only necessary to bring the
enlargement coincident with the head or stud, when the same can be withdrawn.

page_text: To secure the shank at the end of the slit, I propose that it should have a slight
enlargement to pass into.
The button hole is particularly applicable to india-rubber collars and garments,
whilst its application to cuffs and other like articles, differs in no essential respect
from its application to a collar as hereinbefore described.
Dated this 22nd day of April 1891.
JAMES APPLEBY,
By Henry Skerrett,
Agent for Applicant.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Connection Parts of Collars, Cuffs, Shirts, and
other like Articles of Wearing Apparel.
I, JAMES APPLEBY, trading as Appleby and Company of Frederick Street, in
the City of Birmingham, Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this iuven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described
and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This invention relates to the button-hole parts of collars, collarettes, cuffs, shirts
and other like articles of wearing apparel, and consists in so forming and arranging
the said button hole parts, that their connection with a button, stud or other
analogous fastener, is accomplished without the opening out or bulging of the sides
of the said button hole part, and further, that the attachment and detachment of
the articles fastened, is simply effected.
According to my invention, the button hole part consists of a worked or other
slit, piercing or opening, with a spherical or other enlargement at one end.
In carrying out one form of my invention in connection with the button hole
part at the back of a collar, I provide the said back with a horizontal slit or
piercing, or a piercing in the longer direction of the band of the collar, and with
the said piercing provided at one end, with a spherical or other shaped enlargement,
of the size, or about the size of the button, stud or head of the fastener employed,
and with the slit of the button-hole, of about, or less than the breadth of the shank
of the said fastener, whether the same be attachedly connected to the garment by
sewing, or by it being threaded or passed through a second button hole.
In connecting the collar to a button at the back, pass the enlargement onwardly
over the button, then slide the collar longitudinally from the said button enlarge-
ment.over the shank, which is taken into and up to the end of the piercing, which
is of considerably less breadth than that of the button or stud head, as the case may
be, hence the connecting of the collar to a button or stud.
When in this position, the ends of the collar are buttoned to the front stud or
button in the usual manner, or the button holes at the front may be made alike
unto the button holes at the back. In this case, the enlargements of them are at
the inwardly directed end of the slit, so that the collar is pulled slightly forward,
and the enlargements passed over the button, and when released, the shank of the
said button takes into, and up to the ends of the narrow parts, hence the connection.
The position of the back button hole is out of the middle, or in other words, the
narrowed end of the contracted part, comes within the middle of the collar, or the
band thereof, whilst the enlarged part, and the narrow part adjacent to it, is disposed
out of the centre.
The button holes are preferably worked, although they may be metal or other
edged.
In button holes with double enlargements, I propose that the slit or piercing or
button holes, as the case may be, may have an enlargement at each end, with a
slight enlargement in the middle, so that the collar can be connected by passing either

page_text: one or other of the primary enlargements over the button, and then drawing the
collar to an extent so that the button or head shall lie within the secondary
enlargement within the middle of the narrow part.
My new or improved button hole may be directed vertically or obliquely, instead
of horizontally as described.
In disconnecting a collar from a garment, it is only necessary to bring the
enlargement coincident with the head or stud, when the same can be withdrawn.
To secure the shank at the end of the slit, I propose that it should have a slight
enlargement to pass into.
The button hole is particularly applicable to india rubber collars or garments,
whilst its application to cuffs and other like articles, differs in no essential respect
from its application to a collar as hereinbefore described.
Figure 1 of the accompanying drawings, represents a collar, with button holes,
constructed and formed according to my invention.
Figure 2 represents the same with the button hole of the back part connected
with the button of the shirt.
Figure 3 shows the front of a collar, showing the new or improved button holes
of the same, connected to a button.
The attachment and detachment of a collar from off the button hole of a garment,
is accomplished without the primary parts of the button hole being opened out, or
bulged, as is commonly the case with those of the ordinary kind.
.
a, is a collar, with middle and end button holes or button hole parts, each
consisting of a bulbous enlargement b, a little larger than, or about the size of, the
buttons to which the collar is to be fastened.
c is a contracted neck or channel, leading to a small end enlargement d, wherein
the shank of the button is situated when the collar is connected or attached to the
button.
The contracted and necked parts c of each of the button holes, which lead to and
from primary and secondary enlargements at the ends of the said button holes, form
locks, and prevent the accidental disconnection of the collar from its button, or in
other words, after the contracted neck part c, has been drawn over the shank, by
the longitudinal displacement of the collar, the said shank remains within the
hole d, or at the back of the locking part.
In the connecting the back button hole to the button e, attached to a shirt f,
first pass the primary spherical enlargement b, over the head of the same, then
by a longitudinal drawing of the said collar, in the direction indicated by the
arrow, draw the contracted or neck part cover the shank of the said button,
which former yields slightly, in obedience to the outward pressure exerted upon it.
The shank of the button now rests, and is locked, within the small spherical
part d, as the sides of the contracted part c, close behind the shank, as the said
part is drawn through it.
Although I have represented the button hole with a lock, yet the same may
have a uniform slit, to correspond with the parts c and d, and of a breadth about
the same as that of the shank or stem of the button, stud or the like.
The end button holes are passed upon the buttons g, upon the front of a shirt, in
ways similar to that in which the attachment or connection is made with
respect to the back or middle button hole, and which connection is represented in
Figure 3.
Figure 4 represents a collar provided with a back button hole, constructed
according to another form of my invention.
The said button hole has right and left handed primary enlargements, with a
shank lock between them, so that a collar may be connected, either from the right
or from the left.
Thus b, b, are primary enlargements, with a stem lock part d, coming evenly
between them, and with contracted entrances or necks c, c', leading from and to
the parts as aforesaid.

page_text: Figure 5 represents a gaiter, provided with button holes, as according to my
invention.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
First-In button holes, or button hole parts, of collars, cuffs, and other like
articles of wearing apparel, consisting of a slit, piercing or opening, having a
primary enlargement at one part, or one end, and a contracted or narrow passage
at the other part or other end, as described and set forth.
Secondly-In button holes, or button hole parts, of collars, cuffs, and other
like articles of wearing apparel, consisting of a slit, piercing or opening, having
a primary enlargement at one end, and a secondary or smaller enlargement at
the other end, and with the said primary and secondary enlargements, connected
or united together by a narrow passage, which constitutes of lock, as described
and set forth in the several figures.
Thirdly-In a button hole, consisting of an opening or piercing, having bulbous
enlargements at both ends, and with the shank or stem receiving part between
them, and with locks or contracted passages between the end enlargements and
receiving parts, and marked b, b¹, d, c, c', substantially as described and set forth
in Figure 4.
JAMES APPLEBY,
By Henry Skerrett,
6, Livery Street, Birmingham, Agent for Applicant.