Improvements in Sewing Machines for Lasting Boots and Shoes.
Year: 1897

page_text: Date of Application, 27th Apr., 1897-Accepted, 17th July, 1897
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Sewing Machines for Lasting Boots and Shoes.
I, JAMES EDWARD JACKSON, of 248 Market Street, Lynn, in the County of Essex,
and State of Massachusetts, United States of America, Machinist, do hereby
declare the nature of my invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:-
This invention has relation to machines for stitching the upper to the insole of
a boot or shoe.
The object of the present invention is to provide a machine of this character,
with certain improvements whereby the insole and the upper will be positively
gripped before the needle is inserted through them, the mechanism acting to draw
the upper taut over the last on which it has been previously secured temporarily
by tacks or any other means.
Another object of the invention is to provide such improvements in machines of
the character specified that the edge of the upper may be slashed at the toe : at
other desirable points whereby the said edges may be neatly overlapped or shingled
in stitching the upper to the insole.
Still another object of the invention is to provide improved means for looping
the thread around the needle, and to provide such other improvements as will
enhance the efficiency of the machine whereby it will draw the upper taut over the
last and stitch the upper to the insole in a finished manner without the aid of
manually operated pinchers.
To these ends the invention consists of a machine possessing certain features of
improvement, all as are illustrated upon the drawings and now to be described in
detail and then pointed out in the claims hereto appended.
Reference is to be had to the annexed drawings and to the letters and figures
marked thereon, forming a part of this specification, the same letters designating
the same parts or features, as the case may be, wherever they occur.
Of the drawings-
Figure 1 is a side elevation of a machine embodying my invention.
Figure 2 is a front end elevation of the same.
Fig. 3 is an elevation from the other side of the machine.
Fig. 4 is a rear end view of the same.
Fig. 5 is a side elevation of the machine, partially in section, so as to show the
grippers, the pinchers and the devices for operating them.
Fig. 6 represents a sectional view of the pinchers for the upper, and their
actuating devices.
Fig. is a sectional view of the device for opening the pinchers for the insole
to remove the work therefrom.
Fig. 8 is a perspective view of both pairs of pinchers or grippers, the slasher
and their adjacent parts
Fig. 9 represents a sectional view of the machine for the purpose of illustrating
the operation of a looper.
D

page_text: Fig. 10 is a front elevation of the awl the needle and the devices adjacent
thereto.
Fig. 11 represents a vertical transverse sectional view of the same, looking from
the rear of the machine.
Fig. 12 represents a section on the line 12-12 of Fig. 10, looking in the
direction of the arrow.
Figs. 13 and 14 illustrate the pinchers or grippers in the act of drawing the
upper taut over a last prior to the needle being inserted into the work.
The machine is supported upon a standard a, a portion only of which is shown,
and which may be of any approved pattern or shape, and the bed 6 of the main
frame rests upon standards b₁ 61 63 extending upward from a plate a¹ at the top of
the standard a. There are preferably three of these standards 61 61 6³, but there
may be as many more as desired, or necessary.
which shaft are
c, on
one
Depending from a base-plate 6 of the main frame are two brackets 62 62 in which
is journaled the main driving shaft
mounted
the several cams by means of which power is transmitted to the various
movable parts of the machine. Upon
end of the said power-
shaft C is secured a hand-wheel c¹¹, and on the other end thereof is
loosely placed a belt wheel c¹ having a clutch member which, when the said
wheel is moved longitudinally along the shaft c will engage the clutch member c
rigidly secured upon said shaft. To throw the clutch member c² into engagement
with the clutch member 3, I employ a sliding bar c having a yoked arm centering
into a peripheral groove in the hub of the wheel c', (see Figs. 2 and 3) said bar
being mounted in a tubular bearing and having a pin c projecting out from
said bearing to be engaged by a cam 8 attached to a spring held rode adapted to
be drawn downward by a treadle (not shown), said rod c being mounted in a
tubular bearing 2 supported upon a bracket c3 bolted to the bed a¹. When the
treadle is depressed the cam forces the pin calong the slot in the slideway and
through the medium of the bar forces the clutch member into engagement
with the member ³. The said cam c8, when pressure is not put upon the treadle,
is forced upward by the spring to bear against a collar c¹ on the shaft to act as a
friction brake therefor. A spring is placed in the slideway co to force the bar c
outward when the foot is not placed upon the treadle.
Placed upon the bed 6 of the frame is an overhanging arm b' formed of two
similar parallel bars having a common solid base, upon the outer end of which the
needle, the awl, the feeding devices, and the grippers for the insole, as well as the
other mechanism necessary for forming the stitches are mounted. To the end b
of the said overhanging arm is secured a bracket 65 which is in the shape of a
horse-shoe, it having two depending arms 66 in the lower ends of which is rigidly
clamped a sleeve d, as shown in Fig. 11. Upon the sleeve d are placed the awl
carrier e and the needle carrier f.
The awl carrier e having the awl e' is adapted to oscillate about the said sleeve
and is provided for the purpose with an arm el connected by an adjustable rod e
with a lever e³ (Fig.1) pivoted upon a stud projecting out from the bed-plate b,
and having on its lower end a roller extending into a cam groove on the inner face
of the cam disk g, said cam disk being secured upon the main power shaft c. The
connecting rod e2 is formed in two parts, one of which has a groove to receive the
other part, and which is provided with slots e to receive screws eo for securing the
said parts together. Hence by adjusting the said parts with relation to each other,
the throw of the awl may be varied as desired. The awl carrier e is held against
longitudinal movement on the sleeve by a collar or flange which is clearly shown
in Fig. 11.
The needle f' is clamped on the arm f² of the needle carrier f which is likewise
cscillated about the sleeve d and which is also capable of movement longitudinally
of the same, for the purpose of feeding the work laterally. The oscillatory motion
is imparted to the needle carrier f by a rod f* connected with the arm f² and with

page_text: a lever f journalled on a stud f6 projecting out from a bracket secured to the bed b
of the machine.
The said lever passes through an aperture in the bed and has on its lower end
a roller f projecting into a cam groove in the disk f8 secured upon the main power
shaft c.
The upper end of the lever f5 is tubular to receive a pin f9 swivelled
thereto and held therein by a screw f10 projecting into a groove in the said pin, as
shown in Fig. 3. The rod f is pivoted to ears fi in said pin and is formed in two
parts, so that it may be adjusted longitudinally. Thus, while the connecting rod
is reciprocated by means of the lever f5, it is so connected thereto as to have a
universal motion whereby it will impart power to the needle carrier though the
latter be reciprocated transversely of the said connecting rod ft. The needle
carrier has a stud f13 projecting out laterally therefrom and formed on its end
with a ball f which lies in a socket in the end of the rod f*, this being particularly
shown in Fig. 10.
The needle carrier is moved longitudinally of the sleeve d by means of the
following devices. In the said sleeve is loosely placed a cylindrical bar h through
which extends a pin h¹ having on its ends anti-friction rollers h³ as shown in
Figs. 11 and 12, so that although the needle carrier is movable transversely of the
bar h, yet it is secured against longitudinal movement relatively thereto, and the
bar is held against rotation in the sleeve, said sleeve d being slotted at d to permit
the pin to pass through it into the groove in the carrier f. The bar h is
reciprocated longitudinally by an arm h³ having a ball-like end h* passing through
a slot in the sleeve and extending into an aperture in the said bar h, said arm
being secured upon the end of a rock shaft h arranged longitudinally of the over-
hanging arm and journaled in the bracket 65 and a bracket 68, projecting out
from the said over-hanging arm 64. The said shaft his rocked by an arm h³
secured thereto by a set screw he and projecting outward therefrom, as shown in
Figs. 1 and 2.
A coupling block h' is pivoted in ears in the end of the arm h³ and pivoted to
the said block so as to move transversely of the arm h5 is a connecting rod ha
pivoted at its lower end to another coupling block h³, apertured to receive a bushing
(not shown) extending out from the sliding block (shown in dotted lines in Fig. 1)
placed in a slot in a lever 10. The coupling block h³ is secured to the sliding block
by a set screw h" which also serves to secure the sliding block temporarily in place
on the lever 10, the said lever 10 being pivoted at 12 to the bed of the frame of
the machine.
The lever 10 is reciprocated by a bell-crank lever h¹³ fulcrumed at 15 on the bed
and having an arm provided with a roller extending into a groove 93 on the outer
face of the disk g.
Now it will be seen that when the power shaft c is rotated through the parts
thus described, the needle carrier will be oscillated about the sleeve d and will be
moved longitudinally thereof intermittingly by the bell-crank-lever h¹³ and the
devices which transmit motion therefrom to the sliding bar h. By unscrewing
the nut and adjusting the coupling block h, and the sliding block secured
thereto along the slot in the lever 10, the longitudinal movement of the sliding
bar h may be varied as described.
Upon the reduced end of the needle carrier 2 is placed the hub i of what I term
the "needle strengthener," it having an arm i projecting out from said hub, as
shown in Figs. 9, 11, and 12, and having an aperture to receive the needle f¹
which needle is, of course, concentric with the sleeve d.
There is a small pin extending out from the hub i and connected by a spring
with the arm of the needle carrier, as shown in Figs. 10 and 12.
The strengthener is so arranged and operated that when the needle is in the work
and is in the act of feeding the work forward, as I shall hereinafter explain, the
arm is moved along the needle to a point adjacent the work to prevent the needle
from becoming twisted or bent, as it presses against the work. The said pin

page_text: projects over the hub of the needle carrier f2 and is limited in its movements in
one direction by an arm projecting out from the awl carrier e, as shown in
Fig. 10, and in its movement in the other direction by a projection ³ extending
laterally from the stationary gripper to be afterwards described.
The hub of the needle strengthener is moved in one direction by a finger
secured on the needle carrier and engaging the said pin and in the other direction
by a spring. The needle and the awl are arranged in such relation to each
other that when the awl has been driven into the work, the needle will follow it
into the apertures made in the work until the awl carrier is entirely withdrawn,
whereupon the needle will be moved laterally, carrying with it the work, so that
when the awl next operates, the work will have been carried forward one step or
one stitch.
I shall now proceed to describe my improved looper for looping the thread around
the needle when it is in the work and before it is moved laterally.
The said looper consists of a small tubelike finger ; secured on the end of a
projection j, formed on a bar 2, as shown in Fig. 2, which bar is in turn adjustably
secured upon a sliding bar 3 reciprocated vertically by a lever j fulcrumed at j
to the overhanging arm 64. The lever is oscillated by a connecting rod jo, pivoted
to a lever j fulcrumed on a stud 18 projecting out from a bracket 27, as shown in
Figs. 4, 5, and 9, said lever being provided with a roller extending into a cam
groove in the disk 10 secured upon the shaft c. The cam groove is arranged to
give the lever j a sharp jog to raise it for a brief interval and then lower it, so as
to cause a corresponding movement of the vertical sliding bar . The forward end.
of the lever is guided in its movements by a slotted guide j, threaded onto the
top of the plate 5, while the extreme end of the said lever is provided with a
roller which projects into a transverse slot into the said vertical bar ³, the
pin on which said roller js is journaled being held in place by set screws j
The said har j³ is provided with two slots 15 and 16, as shown in said
Figs. 5 and 6, and in Fig. 2. A screw pin is passed through the slot jand
is threaded into a spool 18, threaded into the bracket 5, and into the slot 16
projects a roller 19 on a screw pin 20 threaded into the end of an arm rigidly
secured upon the end of a rock shaft suitably journaled upon the overhanging
arm, between the parallel bars thereof, and extending through the bracket 65
on the end thereof. The said rock-shaft is rocked by an arm 23 extending out
therefrom (see Figs. 2 and 3) to the end of which is secured a connecting rod j
having its lower end pivoted to a lever fulcrumed on a stud 26 projecting out
from a bracket 27 depending from the bed. The lever 26 is provided with a
reller extending into a cam slot in the said disk 10 on the face opposite to that
in which the cam groove is formed.
The two cam slots are so formed and so timed that when the needle is in the work
the looper is moved vertically downward to a point slightly below the needle,
then laterally under the needle, then vertically upward, and then laterally again
in the opposite direction to the point from whence it first started, the vertical
movement being imparted to it by the lever j and its power device, and the lateral
movement being given to it by the rock-shaft and its arm 21.
The said looper thus moves positively in a path which is in the form of a square,
no springs being depended upon to return it to its original position after it has
been moved down and under the needle. In this way the thread is wrapped around
the needle, just beyond the hook on the same.
From
The thread 2 (see Figs. 1, 2, and 3) is conveyed from a spool which is suitably
mounted, and which is not shown, through the eye k on a bar k¹ extending up from
the base at the rear of the machine to a gum-pot supported upon a standard k
rising from the overhanging arm 6', where it is suitably gummed or waxed.
thence the thread passes over a roller journaled on an arm extending from the
pot down to a tension wheel of any suitable character, over a roller on the
end of a spring "take-up", and from thence through a hole in the bar ja to
the tubular looper j. The spring take-up is wound at its rear end about a stud k

page_text: projecting out from a bar & secured to the bracket b³, and has its end secured to a
collar adjustably secured to said stud by a set screw 1. By releasing the set
screw, the collar 10 may be adjusted about the stud to adjust the position of the
spring take-up, as will be readily understood.
Thus having described the stitch-forming mechanism, I shall now proceed to
describe the pinchers for grasping the upper, and drawing it over the last, and the
grippers for gripping the insole, whether it be by the channel lip in a welt shoe, or
by a tape or a line of stitches secured along the insole just inside the edge of the
same.
Referring to Figs. 1, 3, 5, and 8, the stationary jaw or member of the grippers
is formed on the end of a curved bar secured on the rear face of one of the arms 16
of the bracket. It is provided with a suitable guiding lip attached thereto
by screws and with an abutment to resist the thrust of the pinchers on the
upper. The movable jaw m is formed on a hub m¹ journaled on the sleeve d, as
shown in Fig. 11, the jaw m being formed with teeth corresponding to the teeth
on the jaw so as to be able to grip the work positively between them. Extending
upward from the hub is an arm m², by means of which the movable jaw may be
moved towards and from the stationary jaw. The said arm m² is connected to a
rod m³ pivoted to a lever m at the rear of the machine which is journaled upon a
stud m extending out from a bracket formed on or attached to the bed plate.
lewer end of this lever m is provided with a roller ms, pressed against a cam m
secured to the power shaft by a fat spring m0 (see Fig. 4). The cam is so formed
that the jaws are gripped together except for a short interval when the movable
jaw moves away from the stationary jaw to release the work, whereupon the jaws
immediately grip the work again, and hold it stationary while the needle moves
back to its normal position, ready to take another stitch, as I shall afterwards
explain. The rod m³ is connected to the lever m' in such way that even when the
jaws are gripped together, the work may be removed from them by moving the
connecting rod relatively to the lever through the medium of the following
devices:
ne
The pin m which extends through the cylindrical aperture in the lover m² is
formed with an eccentric m³ (see dotted lines, Fig. 6), which extends into the
aperture in the rod m³. Also secured to the pin m is a handle m³ by means of
which it may be turned so as to throw the connecting rod rearwardly to open the
jaws. On the handle is fulcrumed a spring-held lever mo pivoted in the stud m
and having its end extending into the head of a pin m which when the machine
is in operation projects into an aperture in the end of the lever. By pressing upon
the end of said lever mo, the pin is withdrawn from its aperture and the handle
may then he swung rearward so as to cause the eccentric to move the connecting
rod m³ likewise in the same direction.
The pinchers for the upper are arranged to grip the edge thereof and to draw it
upward so as to stretch the upper over the last. Referring to Figs. 1, 3, 6, and 8,
the two jaws of the pinchers are designated by n and o, the former being movable
horizontally and vertically, and the latter being stationary horizontally but
movable vertically.
The jaw is secured by screws o' to a lever o² which is pivoted upon the stud o³
secured in standards of projecting up from the slide o³, placed in a dove-tailed
groove in the bed b. The slide (see Fig. 1) may be adjusted in the groove and
secured in place after adjustment by screws o. The jaw n is mounted on the
lever n¹ which is pivoted upon the stud and which crosses the lever o², as shown
in Fig. 6. The said jaw is placed in a slideway n² in the lever and is reciprocated
therein by a connecting rod n³ and a lever n. The hub n of the lever is journaled
upon an eccentric sleeve no which in turn is journaled upon a stud n' secured to a
bracket depending from the base b (see Fig. 7) said sleeve being held in place
by a screw pin n³. Secured upon the eccentric sleeve on which the hub n³ is loosely
mounted is the hub of a lever no having a roller extending into a cam groove
in the cam n. Likewise secured to the hub of the lever no is an arm n¹² having

page_text: its outer end bent around the lever n' and between the said bent end of the said
lever n is a spiral spring n13. Hence the movement of the lever n10 is imparted
to the spring 3 which is inserted between the arm n12 in the said lever n* so that
the jaw n grips the work between it and the jaw o with a yielding pressure. This
is necessary in order that the jaws may accommodate themselves to work of different
thicknesses.
For the purpose of moving the jaw n back from the jaw o, even though the jaws
be clamped together, I secure a handle n¹6 to the eccentric sleeve n° and provide it
with a spring-held catch n which under normal conditions engages a pin n¹5
extending out from the bed 6. By releasing the catch from the pin n15, the lever n16
may be swung to partially rotate the eccentric sleeve n" and withdraw the jaw n
from the jaw o.
After the jaws n and o have clamped the edge of the upper between them, they
are moved bodily upward. The lever n¹ has a set screw n projecting through its
end and bearing against the lever o2 so that by depressing the lever n³, the lever o
will be moved with it. The said lever o2 is held upward by a spring o' arranged
in a socket in the bed b and having its upper end encircling a stud projecting
downward from the said lever o². The cam m" is provided with a cam groove p in
its face to receive a roller p¹ on the end of a slotted connecting bar p² through the
slot in which the power shaft c extends to guide the said rod in its vertical
movements.
The bar p² is connected to a rod p³ extending through apertures in the
levers on and having its upper end threaded through the end of a sleeve p
which surrounds the rod, the said sleeve being held in adjustment by a lock-nut p³.
6 is a sleeve also surrounding the rod p³ projecting into the sleeve p₁, there being
a spring p² coiled about the rod p³ and having its ends bearing against the closed
end of the sleeve p and the end of the sleeve p. The lower end of said sleeve po
bears against the top of the lever n' so that when, in the revolution of the cam m²,
the roller p¹ is depressed, the levers n¹ and o² are rocked bodily about their fulcrum
with a spring pressure. Thus it will be seen that the jaws n and o will first clamp
the upper between them with a yielding pressure and will then draw the said upper
taut over the last, the drawing action being yielding so as not to injure the leather.
The levers for the pinchers and the rod and its sleeves for operating them are
arranged between the side bars of the overhanging arm, as shown in Fig. 3.
It is particularly desirable to vary the throw of the pincher in order to draw the
edges of the upper a greater or less distance over the edge of the insole, and hence
I provide means for accomplishing this result, as I shall now describe. On a
shaft g which is journaled in the side bars of the overhanging arm 6 is placed a
cam g of the shape shown in Fig. 5, and adapted to bear against a clock of secured
upon the projecting end of the pincher lever o². The projecting end of the shaft q
is provided with a handle q2 having in its extended end g³ a movable pin which
is adapted to take into any one of a series of holes q5 in the base of the overhanging
arm 64, (see Fig. 1). The pin may be moved in and out by a small thumb lever q
against which a spring 97 bears to normally hold the pin in place. Thus by
adjusting the position of the handle q2 the cam q¹ may ve varied so as to limit the
movement of the levers, as will be readily understood. When the cam is out of
the path of the levers they may complete their full stroke, but when the cam is
moved downward the pinchers may be stopped before they have completed a quarter
of the stroke, or be prevented from moving at all, if desired.
In addition to these features which I have already described, I provide an
automatically operated knife or slasher which may be thrown into action at will
for cutting the upper at desired points to permit the edges thereof to be shingled
or to overlap, as is necessary at the toe, or to conform to the last at the shank.
Referring to Figs. 1, 2, 3, and 8, r indicates the slasher blade which is secured to
a lateral extension on a slide bar r, which slide is provided with slots through
which screws 33 extend, there being a plate 2 through which the screws are passed
to hold the said slide bar in place. The screws r³ extend into a support ** secured

page_text: to one of the standards o' in which the pinchers are fulcrumed. The slide bar
is reciprocated by means of a lever having a roller 6 which is adapted to be thrust
outward by a cam projection r on the disk. When the machine is in operation,
the cam projection strikes against the roller and drives it sharply forward so
as to cause the knife to make a quick forward movement and to return
immediately.
As it is necessary to use the slasher only at times and for certain parts of the
work, the lever is pivoted by the screw pin 8 to a link pivoted at 10 to th
front standard b, as shown in Fig. 3, the said link being provided with a boss pl
to receive the pin. The standard is apertured to receive a spring-held pin 2
which, when the link is upright, enters an aperture in the link so as to lock
it against movement. The pin may be withdrawn by a lever 13 pivoted in ears 714
extending out from the standard 63. When it is desired to throw the slasher out
of operation, the end of the lever 3 is depressed so as to withdraw the spring pin pl
and the next time the cam projection strikes the roller r6, it will force it and the
link into the inoperative position shown in dotted lines in Fig. 3. When it is
desired to throw the slasher into operation again, the operator forces the link
into an upright position, and the spring pin 12 slides into place and locks it
against movement. The cam projection operates to drive the slasher forward,
and hence to return it, I employ a strong spring 13 having one end attached to the
base of the arm b' and the other end attached to the upper end of the lever r³.
The operation of the machine is as follows:
The thread being properly passed through the various eyes and tension devices
to the looper, the operator opens the jaws of the grippers and of the pinchers by
throwing the lever m" rearward, and after disengaging the spring catch n
throwing the lever downward. Then the last being held in front of the machine
with the toe to the right, the edge B of the upper is placed between the jaws n and
of the pinchers and the channel lip or the tape A (see Fig. 13) is placed between
the jaws m of the grippers; after which the levers m³ and n16 are thrown back to
their original positions to lock the jaws of the pinchers and the gripper onto the
work. Then the belt-wheel is clutched to the power shaft, by the operator depressing
the treadle.
The first movement of the shaft causes the needle carrier and the awl carrier
to swing about the sleeve d to force the awl into the work, and as the awl enters
it, the slasher (if it is in operation) is driven forward rapidly to slash the edge of
the upper.
As the awl is moved into the work, the rock-shaft h through the
lever and the slide bar h carries the needle along the sleeve d and into alinement
with the awl.
Then the further movement of the power shaft causes the needle and the awl,
whose points are very close together, to swing down through the work and as soon
as the needle is passed entirely through both the edge of the upper and the tape
or the channel lip, the pinchers and the grippers release the work. As the needle
completes the very last part of its stroke forward, the looper is passed around the
needle so as to place a loop of the thread thereon.
As the looper is returned to its original position, the sliding bar and the needle
carrier are moved to the left (in Fig. 1) and to feed the work forward, the needle
strengthener sliding along the projection . Then as soon as the needle has reached
the end of its lateral movement, the grippers grasp the tape between them and
the jawn of the pinchers is slid forward against the jaw o. As the needle is being
withdrawn from the work, the jaws no of the pincher are rapidly raised to stretch
the upper over the last, the last resting against the abutment / formed on or
secured to the stationary jaw of the grippers. This completes the revolution of the
power shaft, and as the said shaft begins its next revolution, it withdraws, the
needle with the loop of thread from the work, forces the awl thereinto, and causes
the slasher to operate. Then, as the shaft completes its revolution, the work is
fed laterally another step, the needle is returned to its normal position, the looper
places another loop on the needle, the grippers and the pinchers release their hold

page_text: upon the work, and the work is again fed laterally by the needles, and so on until
the upper is sewed from the starting point to the toe and along the other side of
the shoe.
It is unnecessary to use the slasher except at the shank and at the toe although
it may be used at the ball if so desired.
By means of my machine, I am enabled to sew the upper to the insole of a welt
shoe or else to the insole of a shoe in which a tape is employed, as shown in
Figs. 13 and 14. By employing a slasher blade for slitting the edges of the upper,
I am enabled to sew the upper to the insole in such a way that when the operation
is completed, the upper is smooth and unwrinkled, since the cut (dges will be
shingled or overlap at the toe and along the outward curve of the insole, and will
gap or stretch along the inward curves, as at the shank, so as to permit the upper
to adapt itself to the peculiar shape of the last on which the shoe is being formed.
In rounding the toe, the overlapping of the cut edges is accomplished
automatically, and they form a neat plait.
The grippers act as an abutment, in addition to the part to hold the last, and
resist the thrust of the pinchers as they draw the edge of the upper above the edge
of the insole. The work is held in the hands of the operator and is thus guided
to the pinchers and grippers, the lip / holding the channel flap or lip or the tape
in position to pass between the jaws of the gripper.
Of course it will be understood that I have no intention of limiting myself to
the details of construction which I have illustrated and described nor to combining
all the novel parts on a single machine. It is not essential that the same feeding
mechanism should be employed in connection with the pinchers and grippers, as
it can easily be replaced by some other feeding device.
One of the novel features of the present invention is that the throw of the
pinchers may be regulated while the machine is at work, and that the slasher may
be thrown into and out of work without the necessity of stopping the machine.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is:-
1. A sewing machine for lasting boots and shoes provided with grippers for the
insole, and pinchers for the upper, combined with means for causing the grippers
and the pinchers to intermittingly, release the work, and means for feeding the said,
work when it is released as aforesaid, substantially for the purposes set forth.
2. In a sewing machine for lasting boots and shoes, the combination with the
sewing mechanism, of a pincher for the upper, a ripper positively gripping and
bolding the insole to resist the thrust of the pincher, means for causing the pincher
to intermittingly release the upper, and an automatic feeding mechanism for
feeding the work when the upper is released by the pincher.
3. In a
sewing machine for lasting boots and shoes, the combination with a
pincher for drawing the upper taut over the last and holding it in a taut condition,
grippers for positively gripping the insole to resist the thrust of the pincher, and a
needle, of means for causing the pincher to release the upper, and means for
moving the needle and the work laterally when the upper is released.
4. In a sewing machine for lasting boots and shoes, the combination with the
needle, of an intermittingly acting gripper having two jaws for the insole, and an
intermittingly acting pincher for the upper.
5. In a sewing machine, for lasting boots and shoes, the combination with
gripper jaws for the insole, a pincher for the upper, an awl, and a needle, of means
for causing the pincher and gripping jaws to grasp the work when the awl
penetrates the latter and for causing them to release the work when the needle has
penetrated it, and means for moving the needle laterally, and for the purpose set
forth.
6. In a sewing machine for lasting boots and shoes, the combination with the
gripper for a tape or similar device on an insole, a pincher for the upper, and

page_text: stitching mechanism for sewing the upper to the tape, of an awl, and means
co-acting therewith for causing the gripper to release the tape intermittingly, for
the purpose set forth.
7. In a sewing machine for lasting boots and shoes, the combination with the
stitching mechanism, of a pincher for the upper having two jaws, and means for
moving the pincher bodily to carry the edge of the upper toward the stitching
mechanism, said pincher having one jaw movable independently of the other jaw.
8. In a sewing machine for lasting boots and shoes, the combination with the
stitching mechanism, of pinchers for the upper, consisting of two pivoted levers,
each having a jaw on the end, one of said jaws being movable relatively to its
lever, for the purpose set forth.
9. In a sewing machine for lasting boots and shoes, the combination with the
stitching mechanism, of a pincher for the upper, consisting of two pivoted levers,
each provided with a jaw, one of said jaws being movable relatively to its support-
ing lever, means for swinging said levers on their pivot, and means for moving
said movable jaw relatively to its lever, for the purpose set forth.
10. In a sewing machine for lasting boots and shoes, the combination with
suitable stitching mechanism, of an abutment and an automatically operated
pinchers constructed to grasp the upper with a yielding pressure.
11. In a sewing machine for lasting boots and shoes, the combination with
suitable stitching mechanism, of an abutment for the insole, and a pincher gripping
the upper with a yielding pressure and means for automatically and yieldingly
operating said pinchers to stretch the upper over the last.
12. In a sewing machine for lasting boots and shoes, the combination with a
suitable stitching mechanism, of an abutment for the insole; an automatic pincher
for the upper, said pincher having two levers each with a jaw on the end, means
for yieldingly clamping one jaw against the other jaw, and means for moving said
jaws bodily.
13. In a sewing machine for lasting boots and shoes, the combination with
suitable stitching mechanism, of automatically operated pinchers for the upper and
manually operatable means for releasing the work from the jaws of said pinchers.
14. In a sewing machine for lasting boots and shoes, the combination with
suitable stitching mechanism, of an automatically operated pincher for the upper,
and manually operatable means for moving one jaw of the pincher relatively to
the other jaw thereof to release the work.
15. In a sewing machine for lasting boots and shoes, the combination with
suitable stitching mechanism, of an automatically operated pincher for the upper,
and a manually operatable lever for separating the jaws of said pincher when the
work is gripped thereby.
16. In a sewing machine for lasting boots and shoes, the combination with
suitable stitching mechanism, of an automatically operated pincher for the upper,
automatic power devices for clamping the jaw of the pincher together, and
manually operatable means inserted in said devices for releasing the work from
said jaws.
17. In a sewing machine for lasting boots and shoes, the combination with
suitable stitching mechanism, of an automatically operated pincher for the upper,
and means for controlling the movements of said pincher:
18. In a sewing machine for lasting boots and shoes, the combination with
suitable stitching mechanism, of an oscillatory pincher, automatically operating
devices for moving said pincher, and manually operatable means for limiting the
movements of said pincher.
19. In a sewing machine for lasting boots and shoes, the combination with
suitable stitching mechanism, of an oscillatory pincher, automatically operating
devices for moving said pincher, and a hand lever having a stop for limiting the
movements of said pincher.
20. In a sewing machine for lasting boots and shoes, the combination with
suitable stitching mechanism, of an oscillatory pincher, automatically operating

page_text: devices for moving said pincher, a hand lever having a stop for limiting the
movements of said pincher, and means for holding said hand-lever at any desired
adjustment.
21. In a sewing machine for lasting boots and shoes, the combination with
suitable stitching mechanism, of a gripper for the insole, automatically acting
devices for clamping the jaws of said gripper together, and manually operated
means for releasing the work when said jaws are clamped.
22. In a sewing machine for lasting boots and shoes, the combination with
suitable stitching mechanism, of a gripper for the insole, automatically acting
devices for clamping the jaws of said gripper together, and a hand lever for
separating said jaws to release the work when the jaws are clamped together.
23. In a sewing machine, for lasting boots and shoes, the combination with the
stitching mechanism, and a pincher for the upper, of means for feeding the work
laterally, and a knife movable independently of the pinchers.
24. In a sewing machine for lasting boots and shoes, the combination with the
stitching mechanism, and a pincher for the upper, of means for feeding the work
laterally, a movable knife, and means independent of the pincher for moving the
knife to engage and cut the upper.
25. In a sewing machine for lasting boots and shoes, the combination with a
stitch-forming mechanism, and a pincher for the upper, of a knife movable
relatively to said pincher to cut the edge of the upper, and means for moving said
knife when the pincher has engaged the upper.
26. In a sewing machine for lasting hoots and shoes, the combination with a
stitch-forming mechanism, of a movable knife, and means movable independently
of said knife for drawing the upper taut over the last prior to the movement of the
knife.
27. In a sewing machine for lasting hoots and shoes, the combination with a
stitch forming mechanism, and a gripper for the insole, of a movable knife, and
means for moving said knife to engage and cut the upper.
28. In a sewing machine for lasting boots and shoes, in combination, a stitching
mechanism, an automatically movable knife for slashing the edges of the upper,
and means for throwing said knife into and out of action while the stitching
mechanism is operating.
29. In a sewing machine for lasting boots and shoes, in combination, a stitching
mechanism, an automatically movable knife for slashing the edges of the upper,
and means under the control of the operator for throwing said knife into and out
of operation at will while the stitching mechanism is operating.
30. In a sewing machine for lasting boots and shoes, in combination, a stitching
mechanism, an automatically movable knife for slashing the edges of the upper,
and means for throwing said knife into and out of action while the stitching
power devices for operating said knife, and means under the control of the operator
for disconnecting the power devices from the knife.
31. In a sewing machine for lasting boots and shoes, in combination, a stitching
mechanism, an automatically moveable knife for slashing the edges of the upper,
an automatically acting pincher for the upper relatively to which the knife moves,
and an adjustable slide upon which the pincher and the knife are supported.
32. In a sewing machine for lasting boots and shoes, in combination, a needle,
an oscillatory needle carrier, means for laterally vibrating said needle carrier, and
a needle strengthener relatively to which said needle is movable, and which acts to
brace the needle in its lateral movements.
33. In a sewing machine for lasting boots and shoes, in combination, a needle,
means for oscillating said needle, a looper, and means for positively moving
said looper entirely around the needle.
34. In a sewing machine for lasting boots and shoes, in combination, a needle.
means for oscillating said needle, a looper, means for positively moving said
looper vertically, and means for positively moving said looper laterally, whereby
it is moved positively entirely around the needle.

page_text: 35. In a sewing machine for lasting boots and shoes, in combination, a needle,
means for oscillating said needle, a looper, a pivoted bar to which the looper is
secured, means for reciprocating said bar longitudinally, and means for oscillating
said bar about its pivot.
36. In a sewing machine for lasting boots and shoes, in combination, a needle,
means for oscillating said needle, a loop er, a pivoted bar to which the looper is
secured, a lever for reciprocating, said bar longitudinally, and a rock-shaft for
oscillating said bar about its pivot.
37. In a sewing machine for lasting boots and shoes, a needle carrier, a needle,
means actuated from the power shaft for oscillating said needle carrier, and
means actuated from the power shaft for laterally vibrating said needle carrier.
38. In a sewing machine for lasting boots and shoes, a needle carrier, a needle,
a stationary sleeve mounted on a portion of the frame of the machine, and on
which the needle carrier is pivoted, means for oscillating said needle carrier, and
a longitudinally movable bar mounted in said sleeve for vibrating said needle
carrier laterally.
39. In a sewing machine for lasting boots and shoes, in combination, a needle,
a pincher for the upper, means for moving one of said parts laterally while the
other is stationary to feed the work, and means for varying the movement of savi
part.
40. In a sewing machine for lasting boots and shoes, in combination, a needle,
means for clamping the work, means for moving the needle laterally to feed the
work, and means for varying the lateral movement of said needle.
Thatod thin 10 day
100%
JAMES EDWARD JACKSON,
Haseltine, Lake & Co.,
45 Southampton Buildings, London, W.C., Agents for the Applicant