IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FUSTIANS AND CORDS
Year: 1880

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Wilcock, Firm of Messieurs John Wilcock and
Sons, Fustian and Cord Manufacturer, and David Greenwood, Overlooker,
both of Pecket Well, near Hebden Bridge, in the County of York, for
an Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FUSTIANS AND
CORDS."
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Wilcock and David
Greenwood at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 30th
January 1880.
WILLIAM WILCOCK, Firm of Messieurs John Wilcock and Sons, Fustian and Cord
Manufacturer, and DAVID GREENWOOD, Overlooker, both of Pecket Well, near
Hebden Bridge, in the County of York. "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE
OF FUSTIANS AND CORDS."
This Invention relates to an improved backing or foundation of looped fabrics,
which when the loops of such fabrics are cut form fustian or cords.
In the manufacture of fabrics as aforesaid, according to this our Invention, the
back or foundation of the piece is what we term "a feather twill back," that is to
say, a portion of the warp and weft form a rib or ribs the length of the piece, and
on each side of the rib or ribs the weft and warp are so interwoven as to produce
an angle or diagonal twill on each side of the central rib or ribs. Another
backing or foundation which we term the "half feather" back has like longitudinal
rib or ribs, and an angle twill formed on one side thereof; the feather or angle
twill of one rib extends to the adjoining rib. The backings above described give
to the piece when cut what is known as the "cockled" or "curled " effect, and the
backing is strong, and does not unravil or become larger at points accidentally
pierced in the operation of "cutting" the pile loops.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said William Wilcock and David Greenwood in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 29th July 1880.
WILLIAM WILCOCK, Firm of Messieurs John Wilcock and Sons, Fustian and Cord
Manufacturers, and DAVID GREENWOOD, Overlooker, both of Pecket Well, near
Hebden Bridge, in the County of York. "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE
OF FUSTIANS AND CORDS."
This Invention relates to an improved backing or foundation of looped fabrics,
which when the loops of such fabrics are cut form fustian or cords.

page_text: In the manufacture of fabrics as aforesaid, according to this our Invention, the
back or foundation of the piece is what we term "a feather twill back," that is to
say, a portion of the warp and weft form a rib or ribs the length of the piece, and
on each side of the rib or ribs the weft and warp are so interwoven as to produce
an angle or diagonal twill on each side of the central rib or ribs.
Another backing or foundation which we term the "half feather" back has like
longitudinal rib or ribs, and an angle twill formed on one side thereof; the feather
or angle twill of one rib extends to the adjoining rib. The backings above
described give to the piece when cut what is known as the "cockled" or "curled "
effect, and the backing is strong and does not unravel or become larger at points
accidentally pierced in the operation of "cutting" the pile loops.
Such being the nature and object of this our said Invention, in order that the
same may be clearly understood we have hereunto annexed a Sheet of Drawings,
in which referring now to Figure 1 the horizontal lines represent the warp threads,
the vertical lines represent the weft threads, and the short diagonal lines at the
points of intersection of the warp and weft threads indicate such of the warp
threads as are to be raised forming the upper part of the "shed" for the passage
of the shuttle and weft in or during the several "picks" or shots of weft necessary
to complete the pattern, that is to say, on the first (No. 1) pick the shuttle and
weft pass under warp threads 1, 4, 6, 8, 9, and 11, and pass over warp threads 2,
3, 5, 7, 10, and 12. On the return (No. 2) pick the shuttle and weft pass or float
under warp threads 12 and 5, and over 11, 10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 4, 3, 2, and 1; No: 3
pick under 6 and 11, and over 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 7, 8, 9, 10, and 12; No. 4 pick
under 11, 8, 7, 5, 2, and 1, and over 12, 10, 9, 6, 4, and 3; No. 5 pick floats
under 5 and 12, and over 1, 2, 3, 4, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, and 11; No. 6 pick floats
under 11 and 6, and over 12, 10, 9, 8, 7, 5, 4, 3, 2, and 1; No. 7 pick floats
under 2, 3, 5, 7, 10, and 12, and over 1, 4, 6, 8, 9, and 11; No. S pick floats under 11
and 6, and over 12, 10, 9, 8, 7, 5, 4, 3, 2, and 1; No. 9 pick floats under 5 and 12,
and over 1, 2, 3, 4, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, and 11; No. 10 pick fonts under 12, 10, 9, 6, 4,
and 3, and over 11, 8, 7, 5, 2, and 1; No. 11 pick floats under 6 and 11, and
over 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 7, 8, 9, 10, and 12; No. 12 pick floats under 12 and 5, and
over 11, 10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 4, 3, 2, and 1.
Figures 2, 3, 4, and 5 show a modification of this our Invention, by means of
which the improved fabrics may be produced, the horizontal lines represent the
warp threads, and the vertical lines the weft, and the angle lines at the intersection
show which threads or ends of the warp are to be raised.
Figures 1, 2, 3, and 4 produce the feather "twill back," and Figure 5 produces a
backing of half feather.
We would have it understood that we lay no claim to the "feather twill" or to
the half feather, separately or apart from the improved manufacture of fabrics as
herein described.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Wilcock, for and on behalf of myself
and the said David Greenwood, have hereunto set my hand and seal, this
Twenty fourth day of July, in the year of our Lord One thousand eight
hundred and eighty.
Witness,
WALTER BRIERLEY,
Patent Agent,
Halifax & Blackburn.
WILLIAM WILCOCK. (L.S.)