IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES, CHIEFLY DESIGNED FOR EMBROIDERING AND STITCHING BUTTON HOLES
Year: 1873

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Eugene Moreau, of San Francisco, County of
San Francisco, and State of California, one of the United States of
America, Engineer, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING
MACHINES, CHIEFLY DESIGNED FOR EMBROIDERING AND STITCHING BUTTON
HOLES."
Scaled the 1st May 1874, and dated the 6th November 1873.
!
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Eugene Moreau at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
6th November 1873.
I, EUGENE MOREAU, of San Francisco, County of San Francisco, and
State of California, one of the United States of America, Engineer, do
hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
SEWING MACHINES, CHIEPLY DESIGNED FOR EMBROIDERING AND STITCHING BUTTON
HOLES," to be as follows:-
My said Invention relates to that class of sewing machinery chiefly
designed for embroidering and stitching button holes, and consists,-
First. In the arrangement and combination together of a needle and
shuttle operated by suitable mechanism, a holding and feeding clamp, of
A

page_text: novel construction and mode of operation, and a take-up mechanism for
producing a lock stitch of a peculiar and novel form on the edges of
fabrics.
Second. In the form and construction of a holding and feeding clamp
in which the fabric is adjusted and secured, and by which it is supported
and automatically presented to the stitch-forming mechanism.
Third. In mechanism for operating the holding and feeding clamp in
proper relation to the movements of the needle and shuttle, so constructed
and combined that the clamp moves at all times in angular paths
beneath the needle without any circular or rotary motion, and is automa-
tically arrested in its movements when the circuit of the button hole has
been made by the stitching mechanism, and the point where the line of
stitches began is brought again under the needle.
Fourth. In the employment of a series of gauges arranged in
relation to the feeding clamp, and combined with mechanism for
operating them so that they act to adjust or regulate the position of the
slit or aperture cut in the fabric for the button hole when it is placed
within the clamp.
Fifth. In the combination and arrangement of parts for rendering the
machine adjustable to automatically work button holes of different sizes
and shapes.
Sixth. In the manner of operating the take-up mechanism governing
the needle thread.
Seventh. In the combination with the shuttle driving and clamp
operating mechanism of the parts for actuating the needle.
The stitch-forming mechanism is composed of a vibrating needle and
reciprocating shuttle, and in combination therewith I use an automatic
feeding clamp and take-up lever. The said clamp is operated to move
in angular paths beneath the needle, and without any circular or rotary
motion around it, and holds and presents the material in a regular and
automatic manner to the sewing mechanism. The said holding and
feeding clamp has a carriage for supporting and moving it, and a laterally
moving stand is provided for supporting the said clamp carriage to
produce a lateral movement of the said carriage and clamp. An
oscillating frame is connected with sliding rods to give a vibrating
movement to levers, which in combination with a flanged bar actuate

page_text: the clamp carriage. The said oscillating frame is operated by a cam
through a shaft and connecting rod. I employ a cam secured upon its
shaft in combination with the sliding stand and the vibrating lever for
throwing the said lever at the proper times into and out of action with
the oscillating frame.
The mechanism for producing the longitudinal progressive movement
of the carriage and clamp consists of a cam secured on the last-mentioned
shaft, the sliding stand, and a bell-crank lever connected to the stand
and with the side of the aforesaid clamp carriage. Another cam secured
upon the said shaft is arranged to operate with the sliding stand and a
flanged bar supporting the reciprocating slide for throwing the bell-
crank lever at the proper times into and out of action with the oscillating
frame.
The reciprocation of the carriage and clamp is caused to take place
when the head and end of the button hole are being formed by the
reciprocating slide, and the bell-crank lever connected with the slide and
with the side of the said carriage.
In combination with the reciprocating flanged bar and stand I use a
cam and stand and a sliding wedge for the purpose of producing a side
movement of the said stand and the aforesaid clamp carriage.
An intermittent rotary motion is given to the series of cams by an
eccentric actuated by the driving shaft, a forked connecting rod and
loose collar turning on the said shaft, and provided with an arm and pin
and feed dogs operating to move the cam connected with the flanged bar
intermittenly forward. In combination with the rim on the said cam I
use a stop lever and catch, and a horizontal shaft is provided with an
arm for the purpose of automatically arresting the motion of the cams,
and throwing the feeding mechanism out of action.
The means for adjusting the cams and gauges simultaneously consist
of a vertical shaft operated by a lever and arm connected with a journal
box and an arm attached to the end of the sliding bar.
The take-up lever for controlling the needle thread is arranged and
operated in such relation to the movements of the clamp that it draws
the needle thread up tight at each movement of the clamp for the
purpose of causing it to lie in a straight line along the edge of the
button hole.

page_text: In combination with the cam which operates the oscillating frame and
mechanism actuated by it for moving the clamp carriage, and the
mechanism operated from the pulley shaft for actuating the shuttle, I
use a crank, a pitman links, and a needle arm for giving the proper
movement to the needle bar with relation to the motions of the clamp
carriage.
Cams composed of a series of steps or surfaces are arranged upon a
sliding shaft, and operated and adjusted for the purpose of increasing the
capacity of the machine to automatically work button holes of different
sizes.
A slotted plate is hinged within the upper jaw, and raised by the
action of a spring, and is combined with the lever jaw of the clamp for
the purpose of forming an adjustable holding surface. In combination
with the said slotted plate I use a sliding bridge, which forms a bearing
surface immediately about the needle, and shifts the material from the
said needle as it rises.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Eugene Morcau in the Great Seal Patent Office on
the 5th May 1874.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, EUGENE
MOREAU, of San Francisco, County of San Francisco, and State of
California, one of the United Sates of America, Engineer, sond greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Sixth day of November, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-three, in the thirty-
seventh year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors,
give and grant unto me, the said Eugene Moreau, Her special licence
that I, the said Eugene Moreau, my executors, administrators, and
assigns, or such others as I, the said Eugene Moreau, my executors, admi-
nistrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others,
rom time to time and at all times thereafter during the term therein
expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend,
within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel

page_text: Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING
MACHINES CHIEFLY DESIGNED FOR EMBROIDERING AND STITCHING BUTTON HOLES,"
upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said Eugene Moreau, my
executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or
their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and
ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same
was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal
Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the
date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Eugene Moreau, do hereby declare
the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement, reference being had to the accompanying Drawing
forming a part of this Specification :-
My said Invention relates to that class of sewing machinery chiefly
designed for embroidering and stitching button holes, and consists,-
First. In the arrangement and combination together of a needle and
shuttle, operated by suitable mechanism; a holding and feeding clamp
of novel construction and mode of operation; and a take-up mechanism
for producing a lock stitch of a peculiar and novel form on the edges of
fabrics.
Second. In the form and construction of a holding and feeding clamp,
in which the fabric is adjusted and secured, and by which it is supported
and automatically presented to the stitch-forming mechanism."
Third. In mechanism for operating the holding and feeding clamp in
proper relation to the movements of the needle and shuttle, so con-
structed and combined that the clamp moves at all times in angular
paths beneath the needle without any circular or rotary motion, and is
automatically arrested in its movements when the circuit of the button
hole has been made by the stitching mechanism, and the point where
the line of stitches begin is brought again under the needle.
Fourth. In the employment of a series of gauges arranged in relation
to the feeding clamp and combined with mechanism for operating them,
so that they act to adjust or regulate the position of the slit or aperture
cut in the fabric for the button hole when it is placed within the
clamp.

page_text: Fifth. In the combination and arrangement of parts for rendering the
machine adjustable to automatically work button holes of different sizes
and shapes.

page_text: A is the box or case holding the mechanism and affording the proper
support and bearings for the various parts. It is provided with a.top
plate or cover A', which protects the parts within and constitutes the
supporting surface for the fabric being served. The frog or curved
stationary arms A³ rising from the top plate of the case is secured to the
top of the standard A³ within the case, and holds the needle bar and
thread controlling devices. B is the clamp which grasps the fabric and
presents the slit or aperture previously cut in it to the action of the
stitch-forming mechanism in a regular progressive manner step by step
until the slit has been brought its entire length beneath the needle, first
one side and around the circular head or eye of the button hole, and
then the other side to the point of beginning. O is the clamp carriage
communicating the movement of the parts necessary to produce the
result more particularly described hereafter to the clamp. Its vertical
arm projects and works through a longitudinal opening in the top plate
of the case, and has a screw hole to receive the screw fastening the
clamp in place.
D, D¹, D³, D³, are a series of cams provided with graduated steps or
surfaces and secured upon a horizontal shaft E, with which they rotate.
They act to give motion to a set of sliding stands F, F¹, F³, F³, one to
each cam, and are moved by the eccentric G, reciprocating rod G¹, feed
collar H, and its feed dogs H³, H³, with an intermittent rotary movement
to operate the sliding stands and the parts connected with them.
I is the series of gauges held in an opening in the top plate and below
its surface, and secured to a sliding bar I¹ on the side of the shuttle raco..
They are moved by the lever K, which as it is turned partially rotates
the vertical shaft K¹, and causes the arm K of the shaft to move the
bar I to which it is attached.
K' is a lever giving motion to the horizontal rocking shaft L by means
of the connecting rod k³, and through it to the arm l. It operates to
raise any one of the graduated gauges I above the level of the top plate
of the case, and hold it in position during the operation of adjusting the
fabric in place within the clamp, and then draw it down again.
M is a crank on the end of the continuously rotating shaft N operating
to give motion to the shuttle driving mechanism. The vertical oscillating
shaft M¹ which carries the lever M³ connected with the shuttle carrier m

page_text: is operated by this crank through the medium of the connecting rod m¹
and arm m².
The crank P upon the opposite end of the same shaft N gives a
rotating motion to the curved lever R pivoted to the frog A³ at Q,
and connected at r to the needle mandril R¹. The end of this
crank is connected by a pitman S, with the ends of the links S¹, S³,
pivoted respectively to the stationary bearing on the upright A³ at & and
to the end S₁ of the curved lever R. The continuous rotation of the
shaft N thus produces a horizontal reciprocating motion of the shuttle
and a vertical vibrating motion of the needle. _ Motion is communicated 1
to the shaft N by the driving pulley N' (Figure 3) secured upon it.
T is a horizontal shaft held in bearings t, t, and rotated from the
shaft N through the medium of the gear T and pinion N³, Figure 3.
The pinion and gear are in the proportion of 1 to 3. It actuates the
cams U, V, and through them gives motion to the oscillating frame W,
operating the slide E³ and lever D³, and to the curved arm v, moving the
take-up lever T. In this manner the motion of the driving shaft N is
communicated to the several working parts of the machine.
Y is a lever for regulating the position of the adjustable plate which
controls the length of each intermittent movement of the cams D, D³. 2
Z is a curved stop lever secured to the horizontal rocking bar Z' and
actuating it so that the arm z projecting from the bar will at the
proper times raise or depress the forked end of the reciprocating rod G².
The end of the rod G is forked, so as to embrace and slide upon a
roller on the end of the arm z, that a vertical movement of the end of 2
the rod may take place at any time without interfering with its
reciprocating motion. A pin g on the end of this rod projects upward
and engages with the arm h, Figure 1, of the feed collar H at each
backward reciprocation of the rod. The feed collar H, of which this
arm is a part,, thus turns a certain distance forward as the motion of g
the rod G¹ move the arm h. This feed collar however is not secured
to the cam shaft E but turns loosely upon it and operates it through
the feed dogs H2, H3, of ordinary construction, which by their form
grip the feed ring 7 projecting from the side of the cam D³, and at
each forward movement of the collar H rotates, the cam D³.
";
The backward movements of the feed collar H is produced by the
coil springs * secured at one end to the fixed pointy and at the other
3

page_text: to the pin projecting from the collar; and when this movement
occurs the feed dogs H³, H³, slip upon the ring h¹ and impart no motion
to the cam, so that the movement of the cam and of the shaft E, upon
which it and the other cams are secured, is an intermittent rotary one.
These parts are more particularly shewn in Figures 1 and 2.
The curved stop lever Z, secured to the horizontal rocking bar Z',
projects upward and through a slot in the side of the case A at the top.
Its office is to turn the bar z¹ and its arm z, and so raise or lower the
forked end of the rod G¹ and hold it in either position.
When the end of the rod is raised the pin g is in line to engage
with and move the arm h of the feed collar, but when it is depressed
the pin passes under the end of the arm and no feeding motion of
the cams takes place. But this action of the bar z¹ and its arm z is
made automatic and caused to occur at the proper moment by the
rin upon the cam D³ and the catch Z³, Figure 2, projecting from the
side of the stop lever Z bearing against the surface of the rim by means
of the spring Z*. As the cam D³ revolves the rims acts to hold up the
lever Z and keep the arm and the forked end of the rod G' in a raised
position; but the revolution of the cam brings at the proper time a
notch or depression in the circumference of the rims d³ beneath and
in line with catch Z³ and causes the lever Z to drop. This movement
being communicated to the bar Z' and its arm & the end of the rod G¹
drops below the arm of the feed collar H, and the motion of the cams
is arrested. The position of the notch in the surface of the rim is such
that it is brought under the catch Z as the cam makes one complete
revolution.
The stop lever and its catch also act to hold the cams in position
with reference to the other moving parts of the machine when they
are at rest and prevent them being accidently thrown out of time, as
they can only begin their rotary movement when the stop lever Z is
raised to liberate the catch from the notch in the rim, and this cannot
be done without raising the arm z and throwing the end of the rod G¹
into action.
The action of the coil spring 12 in drawing back the feed collar is
controlled and the extent of its motion regulated by the adjustable
plate Y¹ and the yoke y' secured upon its end. This plate is held and
slides upon the bracket A' secured to the side of the case, and is moved

page_text: and held in position by the lever Y pivoted at y³ to the bracket and
connected with the plate by the pin y³ (Figures 2 and 3) projecting
from its under side and fitting in a slot in the side of the plate Y¹.
The length of motion of the feed collar H is controlled by the position
occupied by the plate and its yoke with respect to the pin h*, because
this pin, which projects upward from the feed collar, oscillates back
and forth within the slot in the yoke as the collar turns and strikes
against and is arrested by the forward end of the yoke at each retrogade
motion of the collar; therefore the more the plate Y¹ is drawn back-
wards the less will be the motion of the pin 7* forward. Consequently
the relative position with each other of the vertical pin h* and the
arm h being fixed the less the amount of movement allowed to the
pin the less will be the movement backward of the arm h and the
less also its motion forward from the time it engages with the pin g
during the backward movement of the rod until the rod reaches the
end of its stroke. In this manner the plate Y¹ acts to regulate the
length of the movements of the feeding mechanism. The cams
D, D¹, D', D³, actuated by the parts above described, are secured upon
the horizontal shaft E, and are each conposed of a graduated series of
faces or steps, sixteen in number. The first eight of each series
corresponding in form and number to the size and number of button
holes the machine is qualified to work, for example, if it be constructed
to work eight button holes the largest one and three-eights of an inch,
and the smallest one half of an inch, with a difference between each
size of an eighth of an inch, then, the first step or surface of each
cam being made of the form necessary to give the proper motion to
the portions of the mechanism actuated by it, which contribute towards
the successful working of a button hole of the largest size, the second
step must be made of the proper form and size to work a button hole
of the second size, and so on for each succeeding size of button
hole.
These cams give motion to the intermittently movng stands
F, F¹, F², F³, sliding in suitable guides on the bed of the case A and
provided with rollers f, f¹, which bear against the faces of the cams,
and so move backward and forward as the cams rotate.
By referring to the detail Drawings (Figures 4, 5, 6, 7, 8,) it will be
seen that each stand is provided with two rollers, one f being so situated
as to run in contact with any one of the first eight of the series of steps

page_text: with which it may be in line, and the other f' being in such position on
the stand that it engages with the corresponding one of the second
eight of the series.
For example, the front roller f of the stand being
in contact with the first step, the other roller must be in line with the
ninth step, which is the first one of the second series, consequently as
these rollers are positively fixed upon the stand, the form of the ninth
step must so correspond with that of the first that its shape will be the
counterpart of the first step, and so on for each succeeding step of the
series in order to keep the second roller in contact with the cam, so
that the movements of the stands and the parts connected with and
operated by them are always positive and produced without the aid
of springs.
The cam shaft E is arranged to slide back and forth that the cams
secured to it may be moved sidewise in front of the stands to bring any
one of the series of steps in line with the rollers f. For this purpose one
end of the shaft is supported by a stud e (Figures 2 and 3) secured to
the side of the case A which enters a hole in the end of the shaft E, and
the opposite end is held and turns within a sliding and adjustable journal
box D' supported by the stand d¹. This shaft can turn freely within
the journal box but has no longitudinal movement except as the box is
moved.
The vertical shaft K¹ held in bearings on the side of the shuttle race
operates to move the journal box D' and adjust the position of the cams
by having the setting lever K secured to its upper end, and a fixed arm ď
projecting from its lower end and turning with it, as the pin or roller on
the end of this arm engages in a slot in the top of the journal box
any motion given to the vertical shaft K³ acts to cause the journal
box to slide and move the cam shaft a corresponding distance.
The lever K fixed to the head of the vertical shaft K' for rotating it
to adjust the working position of the cams D, D', is situated upon the
top plate of the case A, and its end is arranged to move over a graduated
plate (Figure 15) upon the cover suitably marked to designate the
position to be held by the end of the lever when the machine is required
to work a button hole of the size indicated by the marks on the plate at
that point.
The distance between the position occupied by the end of the lever at
the time of adjusting the machine and the mark upon the plate, cor-

page_text: responding to the size of the button hole to be worked, being the
distance it is required to move the lever in order to bring the steps or
faces upon the cam corresponding to that size of button hole in line
with the rollers f. The series of graduated cams thus arranged and
operated act to give motion to the carriage O supporting and moving the
button hole clamp. This part consists of an L shaped piece sliding
smoothly within the stand and provided with a screw hole in its vertical
arm to receive the screw fastening the clamp to it. The carriage C has
no motion of itself but in a longitudinal direction beneath and in line
with the needle, the other lateral and diagonal movements required to
properly feed the button hole clamp being imparted to the stand C¹ in
which the carriage moves. This stand C¹ is made in the form of a cross
with a horizontal arm c at right angles to the part supporting the
carriage, and this arm of the stand fits into a flanged reciprocating bar
c³ supported between lugs a, a, projecting from a stationary brace A³
extending across and within the case from one side to the other. It is
arranged to slide with or upon the flanged bar both with it and at
times independently of it, in a direction at right angles to the movement
of the carriage O within the stand C¹ and thus give a lateral movement
to the stand and the carriage held in it.
The flanged bar C has a reciprocating movement given to it between
the lugs a, a¹, of the stationary brace A³ by the action of the cam U,
which as it vibrates the vertical shaft V₁ gives motion to the curved
lever W upon the head of the shaft and actuates the vertical oscil-
lating frame W through the connecting rod W₁ attached to the frame
at w.
The sides of this oscillating frame W are provided with suitable
bearings 20 to receive and hold the sliding rods w³, w, the lower one 20*
being attached to the arm of the lever D³ by a stud d' which passes
through the end of the arm and through the square portion in the centre
of the rod, and the upper rod Ws being secured in a similar manner to
the end of the reciprocating slide E³ which works in the flanged bar e³
and is connected with the end e' of the bell-crank lever F4, as shewn in
the detail views (Figures 4, 5, and 6). It will be seen from this
arrangement that the oscillating motion given to the frame W by the
cam, and the parts connected with it, produces a reciprocating move-
ment of the slide E³ in its flanged bar e³, and a vibrating movement of
the lever D upon its centre, provided the points of connection of these

page_text: parts with the rods W³, W, are not in line with the centre or axis of
oscillation of the frame W, for if the points at which the lever D³ and
slide Es are attached to the rod are in line with its axis, it is evident that
no movement of the parts can take place; therefore in order to throw
these parts into or out of action it is only necessary to move the sliding
rods towards or away from the centre of oscillation of the frame.
This action of the rod wo to throw the lever D³ into or out of play is
produced by the cam D, the first one on the shaft shown in section in
the plan view (Figure 4) and in clevation in (Figure 5). The stand F
operated by this cam D carries the lever D' which is pivoted to it at ď³,
and by virtue of the form given to the face of the cam, the stand acts
to move the sliding rod and throw the end of the lever connected to it
once towards the axis of the frame W, and once away from the axis
during each revolution of the cam, the face of the cam being com-
posed of two concentric curves, one of smaller diameter than the other,
as shown in the detail view, Figure 5, so that the lever is thrown for-
ward and held in action during a portion of the time, and drawn back
out of action for the remainder. The office of this lever D' is to give
motion to the flanged bar C² which reciprocates the carriage C in a lateral
direction.
The upper rod w³ is moved by the stand F¹, operated by the second
cam D' (Figures 4 and 6). The form of this cam is such that the rod
is held in a stationary position, and the reciprocating bar E³ attached to
it is held out of action except for a small portion of the time during the
revolution of the cam, when the depression in its face shown in detail
view (Figure 6) causes the stand F¹ to move and throw the rod and its
reciprocating bar into play. This bar so operated by the oscillating
frame W is connected with the end of the bell-crank lever F*, the other
arm of which is attached at f* to the side of the clamp carriage, and
gives a short reciprocating motion in a longitudinal direction to the
clamp when brought into action.
The third cam D³, Figures 4 and 7, acts to move its stand F with an
intermittent movement in a longitudinal direction beneath the needle,
first in one direction or forward, and then in the opposite direction or
back again to the starting point. The slide attached to this stand F
supports the axis fi of the lever at its end, and draws the lever F" and
also the carriage attached to it at f* in the direction it is being moved by

page_text: the cam D. The face of this cam Dis composed of a series of graduated
steps of eccentric form, eight in number, corresponding to the number
of button holes the machine is designed to work, and also of a second
series of the same number, of such form that the second roller f¹ of the
stand will run in close contact with any one of the series when the first
roller is in contact with the corresponding one of the first series; for
instance if the roller f is being actuated by the first step of the cam,
which is the largest one of the series, then the ninth step or the first
one of the second series must be always engaged with the second roller,
and so on for each succeeding one of the series, in order that the first
roller of the stand may be properly held against the surfaco of the cam
to receive its motion.
The fourth cam D³ (Figure 8) operates the sliding wedge E¹ (Figure 4),
and gives it at the proper time a short longitudinal movement, first in
one direction or forward, then in a reverse direction or backward equal
to twice the length of the forward movement, and then forward again to
the starting point, which is the position shewn in (Figures 3 and 4).
This wedge E¹ reciprocates with the flanged bar C³, and is free to slide
between the vertical arms f of the stand F³3, and as the face of the cam
D³ is of a circular form, except for a small portion of its circumference,
the wedge E¹ has no motion of itself while the roller of the stand is
running in contact with the circular portion, but only serves to connect
the slide c and flanged bar O together. When however the motion of
the flanged bar is about to cease (which takes place when the cam D
throws the end of the lever D³ and its sliding rod w¹ to the centre of the
oscillating frame), the cam D³, by virtue of the change in its form,
moves the wedge a certain distance, causing it to slide within the lugs
on top of the bar C³ and those formed on the top of the slide c, and
move the slide, and of course the stand O¹ of which it is a part in a
lateral direction within the bar, first to one side of the centre, then back
again and to the opposite side an equal distance, and then back to its
first position. These cams D, D¹, thus operate to give the proper feeding
movements to the clamp B, and by their action upon the levers and
slides above described, cause the button hole in the clamp to be
presented in a regular manner to the needle.
In order to show more clearly the purnose of these several motions.

page_text: diagram (Figure 9) is introduced in the Drawings illustrating the move-
ment of the clamp beneath the needle where the broken line y, z,
represents the longitudinal axis of the clamp, which coincides with the
plane of the needle and with the slit of the button hole when the
needle enters the slit, and the radial lines around the button hole the
position of the stitches. By referring to this diagram it will be seen
that as the needle has no motion but in a vertical direction it is necessary
to give the clamp a lateral movement to one side of the line y, z, in
order to cause the needle to enter the material at a distance from the
edge of the button hole, and then back again to cause it to pass into the
slit, while the clamp must also have a progressive longitudinal motion
to cause the stitches to be laid side by side in a regular manner along
and around the edge. For example, if the needle enters the slit at the
point in the process of sewing, the clamp will move in the direction of
the arrow w both longitudinally and laterally, and the needle after it
rises out of the slit will at its next downward movement, and after the
lateral movement of the clamp takes place, puncture the cloth at a
distance from the edge equal to the length of the stitches, and having
passed through the cloth and seized the shuttle or under thread will
draw it up and lay the loop upon the top of the cloth, as the clamp
moves again laterally to bring the slit of the button hole under the
needle that the next movement of the needle may cause it to enter the
slit. The needle thus enters the slit of the button hole twice to each
puncture in the cloth, that the stitches may be laid at right angles to the
line of the slit, instead of diagonally or in a zig-zag manner, as they
would lie if the longitudinal and lateral movement of the clamp were
made alternately. These two movements of the clamp produced by the
action of the oscillating frame W and the intermittent rotation of the
cam D operate to feed the button hole along until the point v is.
reached, where the circular eye of the button hole begins. At this point
it is evident that an additional lateral movement is required in order to
lay the stitches around the curve at a greater distance from the axis y, z,
and this is the point where the wedge E¹, operated by the cam D³, begins
to move the slide and the clamp carriage in a lateral direction away from
the axis y, z, a distance equal to the radius of the circular eye, of which
the axis y, z, may be the centre. These three movements are therefore
operating at this time to give form to the side of the button hole eye,
the progressive movement produced by the cam D³ to space the stitches,
the lateral reciprocating movement of the flanged bar C² to lay the

page_text: stitches on the edge, and the side motion of the clamp carriage produced
by the wedge E¹ to give the curve to the side of the eye, and these
motions continue until the points in the side of the eye is reached by
the sewing mechanism, which is the point in the curve farthest away
from the axis y, z, and from this part of the eye the wedge E' begins to
move backward in order to move the clamp laterally, and towards the
axis that the remaining part of this side of the curve may be brought
under the needle. These motions then continue until the head of the
eye is reached, where as the stitches are laid in a direction at right angles
to those upon the side, the reciprocating motion of the flanged bar is of
no servico to lay the stitches; this is therefore the point where the
motion of the flanged bar C³ entirely ceases, and the action of the lever
F is brought into full play to give a reciprocating movement to the
clamp carriage in a longitudinal direction that the needle may enter the
material and the head of the circular aperture in it. When this point
in the progress of the sewing is reached, the slide of the cam D2 has
completed its motion in one direction and is about to return to draw the
clamp carriage back again that the opposite side of the bottom hole may
be presented to the needle, and as this movement of the slide takes place
the wedge E continues its backward motion and moves the clamp
carriage an equal distance in an opposite direction to its first movement,
away from the axis y, z, until the point t in the curve is reached, when
the return motion of the wedge must begin in order to move the clamp
back again until the slit of the button hole coincides with the axis y, z,
for the purpose of forming the remaining part of the circular eye, and
when this point is reached where the curve of the eye meets the straight
portion of the button holc, the wedge ceases to operate, and the flanged
bar acts alone to move the carriage laterally towards and away from the

page_text: From the foregoing explanation it will be seen that the cam U and
the oscillating frame W actuated by it gives a reciprocating movement
to the clamp carriage C through the levers D and F, and that these
parts are thrown into and out of action by the cams D, D¹. Also that
the cam D produces a longitudinal progressive movement of the clamp,
and governs its length of travel and consequently the length of the
button hole, and that the fourth cam D³ giving a side motion to the
clamp carriage through the action of the wedge E¹ upon the slide C
operates to shape the circular portion or eye of the button hole.
The extent of motion of the oscillating frame W is regulated by
having the end of the rod W' connected with the curved arm w of the
shaft U¹, so arranged that it can be moved and held at a point nearer to
or farther from the centre of motion of the curved arm, and the
movements of the flanged bar are increased or diminished in length as
the head or the end of the rod is moved away from or towards the shaft.
This movement is effected by means of the lever X pivoted at x in a
bearing A on the side of the case, and connected with the sliding head
of the rod by the bar t³. In this manner the length of the stitches
around the button hole from the edge of the slit is regulated by moving
the lever X, which by its position governs the extent of motion of the
oscillating frame W, and consequently the lateral reciprocating bar O².
B is the clamp for holding and presenting the material to the needle.
A side elevation of it is shown in (Figure 1), and detail views full size are
represented in (Figures 11, 12, 13). It is secured to the upright
standard C of the clamp carriage, which moves in an opening of proper
size in the top plate of the case, and derives its motion from the carriage
and its mechanism.
The upper jaw b is hinged to the side of the frame at 6', and has two
arms within which the slotted plate B³ is pivoted, so as to adjust itself to
the inequalities of thickness of the cloth. Between the under surface of
this plate and the surface of the front part of the lower jaw or bed of
the clamp the material to be operated upon is held, and the pressure
upon the plate necessary to keep it firmly in place is obtained from the
clamping lever B. These two parts of the clamp are provided with
longitudinal slots or openings in them of proper size (shown in the
detail views Figures 11, 12, 13), through which the needle works as it
moves up and down through the material.

page_text: The slotted plate B³ has a throat piece 6³ held and sliding in grooves
in the sides of the plate, and provided with an aperture for the needle to
work through, and a slit for the passage of the thread when the throat
is drawn back by the rod B³ at the completion of the button hole when
it is to be removed, and a new part of the material is to be inserted in
the clamp. The office of this throat is to afford a bearing and holding
surface immediately about the needle, and strip the material from the
needle as it rises; it is kept in its position beneath the needle by the
rod B³, and is only drawn back to allow the material to be inserted
within the clamp, and the slit to be accurately centred by means of the
guages. This rod is moved and held in place by the sliding catch B* at
the back of the frog A³
The bottom of the clamp B rests upon another throat or bridge C³
(Figures 11 and 14) which slides upon the plate A' secured upon the shuttle
race; it affords a bearing and support for the under side of the material
immediately about the needle, and in order to effect this object it moves
laterally with the clamp by being formed to slide upon the plate A'. It
fits in a groove running longitudinally in the under surface of the
clamp, as shewn in section in (Figure 12), that the longitudinal movement
of the clamp may take place, so that the bridge only moves with the
clamp when the lateral movements occur. The form and position of
this bridge is clearly shown in Figures 11 and 14.
and
I, I, are the gauges moved for adjusting the position of the button
hole slit when placed within the clamp, that it may be accurately
centered within the jaws. They are held upon the sliding bar I',
are thrown up through the slit or opening in the clamp above the level
of the jaws by the lever K³ pivoted to the side of the standard. A
connection rod and crank k¹ communicate motion from this lever to the
bar L extending across the machine, and causes it to turn as the lever
is raised, and when this motion takes place the arm secured upon the
bar acts to raise one of the guages I from its place, and hold it up until
the lever is drawn back to its place. These guages are made of different
sizes, corresponding in number and size to the sizes of button holes the
machine is qualified to work, and they are arranged side by side upon
the bar I, which holds them in place and prevents them from moving
laterally, except as the bar is moved, but yet permits a vertical movement
of any one independent of the others.

page_text: The lateral sliding movement of the bar holding the guages is pro-
duced by the lever K, which it will be remembered operates to adjust
the position of the cam shaft and cams, the vertical shaft K' of this lever
having a second arm & secured to it, and connected with the bar I',
sliding upon the flange I³, projecting from the slide of the shuttle race,
therefore the movement of the lever K to adjust the cams also brings
the proper guage into line with the square slit in the throat in front of
the needle hole, where it is in position to be raised by the arm of the
bar L. The position of the two arms of the vertical shaft with regard to
each other is such that when any one of the guages is bought into
position to be raised, the cam shaft is moved at the same time tho
proper distance to bring that step or face of each cam corresponding to
the size of the gauge into working position with respect to the rollers of
the stands. In this manner the act of bringing the gauge of the required
size into position to adjust the slit cut in the material within the jaws of
the clamp, also brings that step of each cam into play, which is of the
proper form to give the necessary motion to the mechanism to produce a
button hole of the size indicated by the gauge, thus the machine is
quickly altered and adjusted to work button holes of different sizes.
The stitch-forming mechanism consists of the vertically reciprocating
needle, the horizontally reciprocating shuttlo, and the take-up lover.
The first two are of the usual form, and are open as shown and
before described.
The take-up lever T2 is operated by the cam V secured upon the con-
tinously rotating shaft T, rock shaft T, lever T, and connection rod T.
Its action upon the thread carried by the needle is such that the thread
is alternately slackened as the needle descends to form a loop beneath
the cloth for the passage of the shuttle, and tightened as the needle
raises and draws up the thread of the shuttle. The shape of the cam V
that produces this action of the lever is clearly shown in Figure 1. It is
composed of three spurs and three depressed faces placed alternately, and
so adjusted with respect to the needle actuating mechanism, that the
spurs raise the curved arm and raise the take-up lever, at cach ascent of
the needle, and the depressions cause the arm to drop as its roller
follows the cam and lowers the take-up lever as the needle descends.
This action of the take-up lever upon the needle thread keeps it in a
state of tension, as the two threads interlock on the edge of the button

page_text: hole and cause the needle thread to lie in a straight line along the edge
of the cloth, in the form of a cord with the loops of the shuttle thread
coiled around it. It also operates to draw up the loop of shuttle thread
entirely through the material as the needle rises, and causes them to be
laid upon the cloth and drawn to the edge of the button hole, as the lateral
movement of the cloth takes place. But as the needle thred has a slight
additional work to perform every time the needle penetrates the cloth at
the side of the edge and brings up the shuttle thread loop in order to
draw the loop over to the edge of the slit as the clamp moves laterally,
the tension on the needle thread is continued at this time a little longer
than at the times when the needle enters the slit, and as this takes place
at every third vibration of the needle, one of the depressed faces of the
cam is made somewhat different in form from the other two, in order to
cause the curved arm to be held down against the cam a little longer at
this point. These parts are held and provided with the necessary
bearings within the box or case A, and motion is imparted to them.
through the pulley N¹ upon the shaft N, and from this shaft to the shaft
T carrying the cams U and V through the medium of the pinion N2 and
gear T¹.
The pulley N¹ is driven by a belt from the driving pulley on the
threadle shaft below the machine, or is connected in a suitable manner
with any other propelling agency that may be employed, the bottom of
the case A being provided with apertures for the belt to run through.
The shaft N gives motion to the needle bar throug the crank & upon
the end opposite to the crank M, whose motion is communicated to the
links S¹, S³, pivoted to the curved lever R by the pitman S. The move-
ment of these parts is clearly shewn in the Diagram, Figure 10, where the
centre of motion of the lever R is at Q, the centre motion of the link S¹
at 8, and the direction of rotation of the crank shaft M is indicated by
the arrow.
The action of the crank in turning from its lowest towards its highest
position throws the pitman S upwards and raises the point of con-
nection S³ with the two links S1, S2, until the two links form a right
line between the centres and the end 8¹ of the curved lever R, as shown
in the full lines in the Diagram. This is evidently the farthest position
the end of the curved lever R can be moved in its arc, and consequently
the lowest point that the needle bar can occupy in its downward motion,

page_text: and any further motion of the pitman S upward will act to throw the
point S above the centre and draw the end 82 back towards the
centre 8, as shown in the broken lines of Figrue 10.
It will be seen that the result of this is to give a slight upward
movement of the needle bar as soon as it has reached its lowest point,
and before its motion in a contrary direction takes place. The purpose
of this motion of the needle bar is to cause the needle to rise and form a
loop on its thread for the shuttle, but as the principle is generally
employed in the construction of shuttle sewing machines at the present
time a detailed description of the operation is therefore unnecessary.
The edge of the button hole is thus covered both on the upper and under
side with the loops of the shuttle thread, and the needle thread lies in a
straight line as a cord along the edge of the slit within the loops of the
shuttle thread, binding them firmly together and forming a strong
corded edge upon the button hole in a manner similar to those made by
hand, and without the employment of a third thread.
The machine thus constructed and arranged is operated as follows :-
The setting lever K is moved to bring its end at the mark or figure
designating the size of the button hole to be worked for the purpose of
bringing the gauge of that size into position, and of moving the corre-
sponding step or face of the cams into place. The clamp lever B¹ is
then drawn forward, the jaw of the clamp raised and held up by the
action of the spring 6* beneath it, and the gauge thrown up by moving
the handle K. The slit previously cut of the proper size in the material
is then placed over the gauge I, the upper jaw of the clamp brought
down and pressed against the surface of the material by means of the
clamp lever B, and the gauge then draws down beneath the top plate by
a reverse movement of the handle K.

page_text: mechanism until every part has been brought to it, and the needle
reaches the point in the serving whence it started. At this point the
cam shaft having made an entire revolution the rim d³ and its notch act
upon the stop lever Z in the manner before described to throw the
eccentric rod G out of action and arrest the motion of the feed cams.
Having thus fully described the nature of the said Invention, together
with various methods of carrying the same into practical effect and
operation, I wish it distinctly understood that I claim,-
First. In combination with the stitch forming mechanism composed
of a vibrating needle and reciprocating shuttle the automatic feeding
clamp B and take-up lever T* when constructed and operating sub-
stantially as specified for producing a button hole stitch of peculiar
form.
Second. The clamp B so operated by suitable mechanism that it
moves in angular paths beneath the needle, and without any circular or 1
rotary motion around it, and holds and presents the material in a regular
and automatic manner to the serving mechanism, substantially in the
manner herein specified.
Third. The clamp carriage C for supporting and moving the clamp
arranged and operated substantially as described to produce a longi- 2
tudinal movement of the clamp.
Fourth. The laterally moving stand C₁ for supporting the clamp
carriage when constructed, arranged, and operated substantially as
described and specified to produce a lateral movement of the carriage
and clamp.
Fifth. The oscillating frame W with its sliding rods w³, w', when
constructed and operated to give a vibrating movement to the levers
D, F, in the manner herein described.
2
Sixth. The mechanism for producing a lateral reciprocation of the
clamp carriage C, consisting of the stand C¹, the flanged bar C, 3
actuated by the lever D, and the oscillating frame operated by the
cam U through the shaft u¹ and connecting rod W₁, constructed, arranged,
and operated substantially as herein specified.
Seventh. The combination and arrangement together of the cam D,
secured upon the shaft E, the sliding stand F, and the vibrating lever D³ 3

page_text: Twentieth. In combination with the slotted plate B2 the sliding
bridge b³, constructed, arranged, and operating in the manner and for
the purpose herein specified.
In witness whereof, I, the said Eugene Moreau, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, this Twenty-eighth day of March, in
the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-
four.