IMPROVEMENTS IN WEAVING 'CHENILLE,' AND IN THE MACHINERY OR APPA- RATUS CONNECTED THEREWITH
Year: 1863

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to John Orr, of Kidderminster, in the County of Wor-
cester, and John Brinton and John Lewis, of the Firm of "Brinton and
Lewis," of the same Place, Carpet Manufacturers, for the Invention of
"IMPROVEMENTS IN WEAVING 'CHENILLE,' AND IN THE MACHINERY OR APPA-
RATUS CONNECTED THEREWITH,"
Sealed the 7th January 1864, and dated the 11th July 1863.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said John Orr, John Brinton,
and John Lewis, at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with
their Petition, on the 11th July 1863.
We, JOHN ORR, of Kidderminster, in the County of Worcester, and JOHN
BRINTON and JOHN LEWIS, of the Firm of "Brinton and Lewis," of the same
Place, Carpet Manufacturers, do hereby declare the nature of the said
Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN WEAVING CHENILLE,' AND IN THE MACHINERY
OR APPARATUS CONNECTED THEREWITH," to be as follows:-
This Invention has for its object. certain improved methods of weaving by
power loom what is usually called "chenille weft cloth," such cloth being
generally a gauze fabric, having wide spaces between every six or other small
number of warp threads, to allow of being afterwards cut up into strips
called "fur strips," and re-woven into hearthrugs, carpets, and other articles
for which it has been found suitable, and the Invention consists in the appli-
cation and adaptation of the improved mechanism and principles of weaving
herein after indicated, to the production of such "chenille weft cloth."
The chief difficulties hitherto experienced in weaving such "chenille weft
cloth "have been in connection with the management of the great number of
shuttles and extent of pattern common to such fabrics, together with the
difficulty of procuring cloth of an uniform thickness from a hand loom, and
[Price 8d.]

page_text: the chief object in substituting the proposed power loom mechanism is to
facilitate the introduction of the different colors and general management of
the pattern, as well as to obtain uniformity of quality. One method of
accomplishing the foregoing object by this Invention is to attach to the power
loom a compound lever and break arrangement, whereby its handle can be
actuated in such a manner as to cause the quick stopping and starting of the
loom, and it is proposed to work such compound lever and break by the
weaver's foot, or in any other convenient manner, and this compound leverage
is so contrived that when the loom is made to stop the front of the shuttle
box shall be opened in such a manner as to give freedom to the weaver for
changing the shuttle according to the requirements of the pattern, and when
the loom is started again the front of the shuttle box will be re-shut. Thus
it will be seen that by this method the work of the weaver.will chiefly consist
in changing the shuttles, bringing into use the different colours as they are
required to form the pattern, such pattern being usually given to the weaver
painted or delineated on a strip or strips of paper, more or less long as may
be found convenient.
This Invention also comprises a more self-acting method of changing the
shuttles, whereby the moving of an index along the surface of the pattern to
be produced shall be so arranged as to determine the particular shoot at
which the shuttle shall be changed after the ordinary mode of effecting
such change, either by a revolving box or a slide box arrangement on
"lathe," it being understood that the weaver will, while the loom is in
action, be placing the shuttle to be so changed, and the required shuttle
shall be made to pass into the shed without any stoppage of the loom for
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said John Orr, John Brinton, and John Lewis in the Great
Seal Patent Office on the 11th January 1864.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE ¿PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, JOHN
ORR, of Kidderminster, in the County of Worcester, and JOHN BRINTON and
JOHN LEWIS, of the Firm of Brinton and Lewis, of the same Place, Carpet
Manufacturers, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Eleventh day of July, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-three, in the twenty-seventh year of
Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto

page_text: us, the said John Orr, John Brinton, and John Lewis, Her special licence
that we, the said John Orr, John Brinton, and John Lewis, our executors,
administrators, and assigns, or such others as we, the said John Orr, John
Brinton, and John Lewis, our executors, administrators, and assigns, should
at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times
thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might
make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain
and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "In-
PROVEMENTS IN WEAVING CHENILLE, AND IN THE MACHINERY OR APPARATUS.
CONNECTED THEREWITH," upon the condition (amongst others) that we, the said
John Orr, John Brinton, and John Lewis, our executors or administrators, by
au instrument in writing under our, or their, or one of their hands and seals,
should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention,
and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to
be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next
and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that we, the said John Orr, John Brinton, and John
Lewis, do hereby declare the nature of our said Invention, and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascer-
tained in and by the following statement in writing, reference being had to
the accompanying Drawings, and to the letters and figures marked thereon,
that is to say :-
Our said Invention relates to the weaving in the power loom of what is
usually called "chenille weft cloth," consisting generally of a gauze fabric,⚫
having comparatively wide spaces between sets of six or other small number
of warp threads, which fabric is afterwards cut up into what are called "fur
strips" or "chenille," to be re-woven into hearth rugs, carpets, and other
articles. The chief difficulties hitherto experienced in weaving the chenille
cloth have been in connection with the management of the great number of
shuttles and extended pattern appertaining to the fabric, which have neces-
sitated its production in the hand loom, whilst with the hand loom it has been
exceedingly difficult to obtain a uniform thickness of cloth. In weaving the
fabric by power by our present Invention, we not only obtain a more uniform
quality, but we at the same time derive great economy in labor and time from
the improved arrangements connected with the shuttles, whereby we render
the weaving of such fabrics satisfactorily practicable by power.
And in order that our said Invention, and the manner of performing the
same may be properly understeod, we have hereunto appended a Sheet of

page_text: explanatory diagrams to be herein-after referred to, and illustrating modifi-
cations of our improved arrangements.
One modification of our improved arrangements is represented in sectional
side view in Figure 1, the shuttle-box being shown detached in Figure 2. In
this modification 'a lever a, to be acted on by the weaver's foot, is arranged to
cause the stoppage of the loom by acting on the usual'stopping or throwing-
off lever b. This lever is actually thrown forward out of its retaining notch
by a bell crank c, which is actuated by a cam d on the low shaft e. A block f
.is arranged to slide on the lever b, being connected by a link 7 to the foot
lever a, and when the foot lever a is depressed, it draws down the sliding
block between the stopping lever and the bell-crank lever c, and this
lever c throws off the stopping lever b at the next turn of the eccentric r
The eccentric d is of course set so as to cause the stoppage of the loom at
the proper part of the stroke. When the stopping lever b is thrown off, it at
the same time causes the front of the shuttle box to be opened to facilitate
the change of the shuttle by hand. In the modification shown, the front i of
the shuttle-box is arranged to slide down, being carried on two pins, which pass
through slots; in it. These slots jare iuclined, so that when the front i is
moved laterally it is raised or lowered by their action on the pins. The
stopping lever b has fixed to it a bar k, which is curved to suit the motion of
the lathe, and it passes through an opening in the movable shuttle-box front i.
When the stopping lever b is thrown off it moves inwards, and the bar k
moving the shuttle-box front i inwards or towards the centre of.the loom,
causes it to be lowered. A horizontal flange is formed on the top of the
movable front i, which, when the front is lowered, becomes flush with the
bottom of the shuttle box, and assists in temporarily supporting the shuttle
whilst being changed.
With other modifications of our improved arrangements the loom does not
require to be stopped when a change of shuttle occurs. It is usual to attach
the strip of pattern paper to the fabric or warps so as to move forward there-
with the part of such pattern paper at the fell of the cloth, always showing to
the weaver what color of weft to put in; we, however, place the strip of
pattern paper apart from the fabric or warps, and cause an index to move over
it in accordance with the progress of the weaving action, and so indicate at
each shoot the part of the pattern to be copied; or instead of the pattern strip
being stationary and the index movable, we employ the equivalent arrange-
ment of a moving pattern strip with a stationary index, which we prefer, as
with it the weaver has always to look at one point instead of having to carry

page_text: his eye along with a moving index. The pattern strip is passed between two
small rollers which are driven so as to move it forwards under a fixed index
wire in proportion as the weaving progresses.
In one modification of the arrangements relating to the change of shuttle,
two or more shuttle boxes quite separate from each other are used, the one in
work being held in its place by suitable catches. When the shuttle is to be
changed the weaver places another shuttle box with the required shuttle upon
a rest in front, and when the lathe moves forward this shuttle box pushes the
one before in use backwards, and takes its place, the lathe carrying it back
and working with it until another one placed again in front causes its dis-
placement. The displaced shuttle boxes with their shuttles fall down an
inclined guide into a receptacle below. The catches for holding the shuttle
box steadily in its place may be released by a hand lever or by the action of
the fresh shuttle box itself.
In another somewhat similar modification each fresh shuttle is made to
displace its predecessor, both front and back of the shuttle box being con-
trived to slide down or to open otherwise so as to permit of this change of
the shuttle.
In other modifications ten or other convenient number of shuttles are
contained in either a sliding or revolving box carried by the lathe, and
arranged in many respects as in ordinary check looms; but, instead
of the changes being determined by means of jacquard or other pattern
mechanism, as in ordinary check looms, they are entirely dependent upon the
weaver, who, whilst the loom is in action, either places one or more of the
shuttles about to be required in the proper compartments of the sliding or
revolving box, or acts by means of keys or handles upon the details for
effecting the changes somewhat in the manner in which such details would be
acted upon by ordinary pattern mechanism; the result being that the required
shuttles are in succession made to pass into action without any stoppage of the
loom for the purpose of effecting the changes.
It will be obvious to the practical weaver that this improved system for
weaving chenille may be carried into effect in a great variety of ways; whilst
the manner in which it may be practised will be clearly understood from an
example.
Figure 3 is a diagram indicating in front elevation some of the details in
connection with a vertically sliding shuttle box constructed for ten shuttles.
Figure 4 indicates some of the details in edge view or vertical section at
right angles to Figure 3. The shuttle box marked with the reference numerals
1 to 10, is fitted to slide in a frame 11, forming as it were a wing to the

page_text: lathe; and it is connected by a link 12 to a lever 13, lying across the loom,
and mounted upon a centre, carried by and vibrating with the axle of the
lathe. To the inner end of the lever 13 there is connected by a link a plate
14, which is made to serve as a counterpoise for the weight of the shuttle
box 1-10, and which is fitted to slide in guides also attached to the lathe
axle, but not shown. The plate 14 has attached to it ten straps *15, there
being one for each shuttle, and these straps pass between a pair of small
horizontal antifriction guide rollers 16, and have hooks 17 attached to their
ends. The straps are severally attached to different parts in the plate 14,
and in such a way that when any one is drawn tight it brings the plate with
the corresponding point of attachment down or up to the rollers, and the
shuttle box is moved so as to place the shuttle cell corresponding to the strap
on a level with the race. Immediately behind. the series of hooks 7 a
horizontal bar 18 is made to descend at every alternate pick of the loom, being
connected to a lever 19, which is acted upon by a cam 20 on the low-
shaft 21 of the loom, the bar 18 rising again after each depression by the
action of a spring or counterweight. With this arrangement it follows that if
any one of the hooks 17 is pushed back under the bar 18, that bar will on
descending draw it down and cause the corresponding shuttle to be put into
action. This action on the hooks is obtained by means of a set of finger
keys 22, like those of a piano, mounted in front of the breast beam of the
loom (or it may be in any other convenient and accessible position). Each
key 22 is connected by a wire or cord 23 to a pair of bell-crank levers
24, 25, which have jointed to them a small vertical wire 26, passing loosely
through an eye in the front of the corresponding hook 17; and when any key
22 is depressed, the corresponding hook 17, in whatever position it may be,
will be moved backwards by its wire 26, so as to be caught by the bar 18 at
its next descent, and be thereby drawn down to effect the required change of
shuttle. To keep the shuttle box 1-10 steadily in position between each
shift, there is formed on or attached to the back of it a bar 27, Figure 5, with
inclined notches, into one of which there gears a hammer 28, acted on by a
slight spring, the force of which is easily overcome when the shuttle box is
shifted. To give increased security when the shuttle is being thrown, thelathe
on moving back may carry the hammer 28 against a strong spring fixed' to the
loom framing, which will cause it to bear with increased force against the
notched bar 27.
In the arrangement just described the actual change of shuttle is effected by
the loom itself, but if preferred the traps 15 may be connected directly to levers
or handles (like bell-pulls for example) upon which the weaver would directly

page_text: act instead of the finger keys 22. The plate 14, with the parts in connection,
may be applied directly to the shifting shuttle box instead of through the inter-
vention of a lever (13) as described. When a revolving shuttle box is used
the plate 14 may be connected to the shuttle box by a rack acting on a toothed
rim on the box or by an endless strap; or the shuttle box may be formed
with an elongated barrel, the straps (15) being fixed upon the part beyond the
ordinary shuttle cells and passing between a pair of rollers (16) situated at the
bottom or other convenient part of the shuttle box frame, whence the straps
may proceed over guide pulleys to any convenient position to be acted upon
by hand or otherwise. In looms having shifting shuttle boxes arranged to be
acted upon by "d
"dobbie" or other jacquard apparatus, we carry out the purposes
of our present Invention by connecting the horizontal needles of the pattern
apparatus to a set of finger keys, and by means of such keys the weaver actuates
such horizontal needles precisely in the manner in which they would be actuated
by jacquard cards, whilst the expence of the great number of cards that would
be required to effect the same results is entirely dispensed with.
Having thus particularly described our said Invention, and the manner in
which the same is or may be performed, we have to state that we do not
restrict ourselves to the precise details herein described or delineated, but that
what we believe to be novel and original, and claim as the Invention secured to
us by the herein-before in part recited Letters Patent, is,―
1. The constructing or arranging of power looms for weaving chenillecloth
so that mechanism for stopping the loom quickly is combined with and acts on
details whereby the shuttle box is opened to facilitate the change of shuttle,
substantially as herein-before described.
2. The applying to power looms for weaving chenille cloth of shifting shuttle
box details constructed or arranged so that the changes of shuttle may be
caused or made by hand without stopping the loom,substantiallyas herein-before
described.
In witness whereof, we, the said John Orr, John Brinton, and John
Lewis have hereunto set our hands and seals, the Eighth day of
January, in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and
JOHN ORR.
(L.S.)
JOHN BRINTON.
(L.S.)
JOHN LEWIS.
(L.S.)