Improvements in and Connected with Means and Apparatus for Cutting or Punching Out and Applying and Attaching Ornaments to Fabrics.
Year: 1886

page_text: Improvements in and Connected with Means and Apparatus for
Cutting or Punching Out and Applying and Attaching
Ornaments to Fabrics.
I JOHN HENRY JOHNSON of 47 Lincolns Inn Fields in the County of Middlesex,
Gentleman do hereby declare the nature of this invention which has been com-
municated to me from abroad by Messrs Jarrosson and Monnier of Paris in the
Republic of France, Manufacturers, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:
The Invention relates to means and apparatus for effecting the ornamentation of
fabrics by applying thereto cut or stamped out portions of suitable material.
Figure 1 of the accompanying drawings represents a transverse section of a
machine constructed according to this Invention Figure 2 is a side view of the
same the press A being omitted from Figure 2. The fabric K to be ornamented is
carried by a travelling carriage C and the material U from which the ornaments to
be applied to the said fabric are cut or punched out is placed on a wooden block V.
The said carriage C is passed alternately from beneath one press A figure 1 to
beneath another press A¹ figure 2. The first press A is used to cut out the
ornaments from the material whilst the sliding carriage C is under the press A¹ and
to afterwards place them on the fabric K when the said fabric is brought under the
said press A by the carriage C.
=
The second press A¹ is employed to make the ornaments adhere to the fabric K
when it is brought under the said second press by the carriage O.
Having thus explained generally the nature of this Invention I will now proceed
.more particularly to describe in detail the manner in which the Invention can be
performed. The press A (figure 1) is worked by the cross head or lever B and
screw X and has at its lower extremity a table: D on which is fixed a plate E
pierced with as many holes i as there are punches d on the plate F. situated
beneath the said plate E.

page_text: This plate E is arranged so that it can be slidden horizontally in such a way
that the holes i therein may be brought to coincide or not with the plungers c of
the punches d and for this purpose the connection with the table D and the
plate E is effected by means of pins or projections e on the plate D passing
through slots x, y in brackets fixed to or formed on the plate E so as to limit the
motion of the plate E. A suitable handle is provided for the purpose of thus
shifting the plate E.
When the plate E is in such a position that the holes i are in the position
relatively to the plungers c shewn in figure 1 and in the detail Figure 7 when
the plate F is raised all the plungers c pass into their corresponding holes i but
when on the contrary the plate E is in the position shewn in the detail Figure 8
the solid part of the plate E is opposite the plungers c and therefore when the
plates E and F are moved together the plungers c of the punches are moved in the
Baid punches.
The plate F is raised by means of screws p and p¹ passing through nuts in
supports O (see figure 1) and connected by a chain M passing over wheels on the
said screws.
The supports O are fixed to or formed with the plate F and are
guided in or by the table D. One of the screws is provided with a hand wheel N
and by rotating this the screws (through the chain M) are both rotated and the
plate F is caused to rise evenly-By turning the handle N in the contrary direction
the plate F is lowered.
The punches a are secured in the plate F as represented in the section drawn to
a larger scale (in figure 3).
They each have a sharp cutting end t shaped as shewn and are very firm and are
'formed with an internal shoulder fupon which rests one end of the spring r the
other end of the said spring bearing on a shoulder c' forming the under side of
the head of the plunger c which head is protruded by the said spring outside the
plate F.
The inside of the punches a may be cylindrical but it may be preferred to make
them slightly conical in order to retain more readily the punched out ornaments.
Beneath the press A is a wooden block V held in an iron frame L and on this
block the material U from which the ornaments are to be cut out is supported.
The frame L is itself secured to a bed plate by laterally moveable bolts or
catches which prevents the block rising with the punches. A screw worked by
the hand wheel V₁ and passing through a nut carried by the block allows the
block V to be moved in one direction whilst a second screw worked by the hand
wheel V2 (figure 2) passes through a nut in the carrier of the block and allows of
the position of the said block and carriage being shifted in regard to the bed
plate S to adjust the block in the other direction. The frame L may be fitted to
the bed plate in dovetail grooves for this purpose.
The carriage C (figure 2) carrying the fabric K to be ornamented runs on the
rollers H and supports a table R capable of being raised and lowered in the
guiding frame 8.
The fabric K is unrolled from the roller G and passes over the table R and then
under the roller I and is roller up on the winder J. The said fabric is supported
breadthwise by lateral chains fitted with points or claws or with moveable
stretches or rowels as shewn at g and fitted to the carriage C at each side of the
table R as shewn in figure 2. Springs may be preferably arranged for the purpose
in any desired position to give the desired tension to the fabric in the direction of
its length for example as shewn at r³ Figure 2.
The table R is heated by gas or other burners q and a wire gauze T is placed
beneath them to prevent the flame from getting to the material U which is beneath
the burners when the carriage C is under the press A as shewn in Figure 1.
Supports or distance pieces m and n are placed at each of its angles as herein-
after explained which supports or distance pieces are removable in order to admit
of those of proper height being used. The supports or distance pieces m ensure the
the
plate F being supported at a proper distance above the fabric K. to ensure

page_text: proper attachment thereto of the ornaments and the supports or distance pieces n
ensure the plate E operating properly to cause the deposit of the ornaments on
the fabric.
The press A¹ with its screw X' is mounted on columns and is furnished with a
plate guided by rods ; furnished with springs (as shewn in front view in
Figure 4) for the purpose of evenly distributing the pressure The plate Q at its
extremities is furnished with screws (u as in figure 6 or u¹ figures 4 and 5)
preferably with several folds of cloth or other material K secured by the screws as
shewn in Figures 2 and 4 and in detail in figure 6. This is for regulating the
pressure put on the ornaments by the press A¹. P and P¹ are stops for limiting
the motion of the carriage C in each direction.
The material U from which the ornaments are to be punched is coated with
gutta percha or other suitable cementing material and in some cases it is prepared
on the same side before receiving this coat in order that it may have a certain
degree of stiffness for which purpose any suitable stiffening may be used.
It is preferred to secure on the block V a cloth or material prepared or covered
with caoutchouc or gutta percha which is wetted or otherwise prepared with a
suitable coating which will have the effect of allowing the punched out ornaments
to be readily detached from the block V. The thickness of this cloth or material
serves at the same time to cause the ornaments when punched out to enter more
deeply the punches a.
The material U is thus applied to the block V taking care to properly stretch
the said material. The plate E is then slidden to the position shewn in Figure 7
the plate F is raised and the carriage C is placed in the position shewn in figure 2
-that is to say under the press A'.
The heated table R is lowered and there is placed thereon a paper fabric or thin
metallic plate wetted and sprinkled with flock or velvet powder which becomes
glued to the back of the fabric K at the time of the application of the ornaments
to conceal the cement which may penetrate the fabric.
When all these operations are effected the ornamentation is proceeded with as
follows: The press A. is brought sharply down and the punches a punch out the
ornaments from the material U placed on the block V the press A is then raised.
The carriage C is moved forward until it is stopped by the stop P in such a position
as to be exactly under the punches a as shewn in Figure 1, the plate F is then
lowered by turning the hand wheel N and then the plate E is shifted laterally into
the position shewn in figure 8 and the press A is brought down again.
In this descending movement the plate F bears on the distance pieces m which
support the punches a at a suitable distance from the fabric K then the plate E
presses the heads of all the plungers c which are thereby moved down into the
punches a and force out therefrom the ornamental pieces of material therein to
cause them to be attached to the fabric K.
The heat of the table R melts or softens the gutta percha or the like which is on
the ornaments which are therefore fixed onto the fabric by the said gutta percha
or the like-The press A is then raised and the plate E is brought back to the
position Figure 7 and the plate F is lifted against the plate E and the carriage C
is removed to under the press A¹ until it is stopped by the stop P¹ as shewn in
Figure 2.
The plate Q of the press A¹ is then brought down onto the table R in order to
properly secure the ornaments and to apply to the other side the flock or velvet
powder used for concealing the cement which may penetrate to that side, the
plate Qis then raised again and the fabric K is moved through a distance equal to
the length ornamented care being taken to put the last line of ornaments in
proper position for the joining of the ornaments of the next portion.
The table R is lowered in order to quickly remove the sprinkled sheet from
beneath the fabric and is afterwards raised. The block V is then moved either
transversely or longitudinally to an extent equal to the size of the ornaments so

page_text: as to present a fresh portion of the material to the action of the punches and the
operation is continued as before stated until the piece of fabric K is ornamented:
The Invention is not limited to the precise arrangements shewn in the drawing
for example the deposit of the ornaments on the fabric K can be effected without
the latter resting on the table R the fabric being stretched on straight edges
provided for the purpose and when it is wished to make the ornaments adhere all
that is necessary is to raise the table. This way of proceeding offers the advantage
of not rumpling the ornaments when they are made of velvet for example.
The fixing of the ornaments may also be completed by making the fabric with
the ornaments thereon pass over a heated cylinder producing the necessary pressure
by means of a cylinder or cylinders covered with velvet the ornamented fabric
being supported on a rather thick fabric or material tightly stretched during its
passage over the heated cylinder.
at once.
Instead of ornamenting a single fabric at a time two fabrics may be ornamented
For this purpose it is only necessary to arrange a second carriage C at
the other side of the press A and to provide for it another press A³. In this way
there is no loss of time the only precaution necessary being to support the press A
by columns placed sufficiently far apart to allow of the withdrawal of the block V
when necessary.
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of this Inven-
tion and the manner in which the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is :-
First. The preparation of the material from which ornaments are to be punched
so as to give consistency or stiffness to the same in order that it may be readily
punched.
Second. In machines for the purpose described the covering of the block V with
cloth or material covered or treated with caoutchouc or gutta percha.such cloth or
material being wetted or prepared so as to prevent the ornaments from remaining
on the said block after the punching and causing them to penetrate more deeply
into the punches.
Third. In machines for the purpose described the arrangement of the stops v for
preventing the block V from being lifted up by the punches when they deeply
penetrate during the punching operation.
Fourth. In machines for the purpose described the plate E pierced with holes i
for receiving the heads of the plungers c when the cutting out takes place and
arranged so as to allow of its being moved in order to present to the said plungers
solid parts to effect the deposit of the ornaments as described with reference to
figure 1.
Fifth. In machines for the purpose described the arrangement of the supports O
screws p and p' and chain M to effect the raising and lowering of the plate F as
described in reference to figure 1.
Sixth. In machines for the purpose described punches with plungers arranged
substantially as described and represented in figure 3.
Seventh. In machines for the purpose described the removable supports or
distance pieces m for regulating the movement of the plate F to either a suitable
distance above the fabric to be ornamented in such a manner that the deposit of
the ornaments is properly effected as described.
Eighth. In machines for the purpose described the removeable supports or
distance pieces for regulating the movement of the plate E so that the plungers c
may move in the punches a to the distance necessary for the proper deposit of the
ornaments.
Ninth. In machines for the purpose described the general arrangement of the
carriage C which bears the fabric K to be ornamented as herein before described
and illustrated in figure 2.
Tenth. In machines for the purpose described the arrangement of the heated
table R capable of being lowered for the purpose of placing thereon a paper a

page_text: tissue or metallic plate dressed with powder for concealing the cementing matter
at the back of the ornamented fabric.
11. In machines for the purpose described the arrangement of the press A¹ for
effecting the uniform pressure of its plate Q so that the attachment of the ornaments.
is properly effected the extremities of the said plate being fitted with set screws u
(figure 5) or folds of cloth or other material (figure 6) the size or thickness of
which is regulated by the requirements of the ornaments substantially as described.
12. In machines for the purpose described the combination of presses A and A'
and a travelling table C operating substantially as and for the purposes described.
13. The general arrangement and combination of parts constituting the machine
or apparatus substantially as hereinbefore described and illustrated in the accom-
panying drawings and the modifications thereof hereinbefore described.