IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR SEWING KID GLOVES, AND CAPABLE OF EMPLOYMENT FOR OTHER PURPOSES
Year: 1872

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Arthur Charles Henderson, of the Firm of
Henderson and Company, British and Foreign Patent Agents, of
31, Charing Cross, in the County of Middlesex, for the Invention
of "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR SEWING
KID GLOVES, AND CAPABLE OF EMPLOYMENT FOR OTHER PURPOSES."—A
communication from abroad by Gustave Demailly, Civil Engineer,
of the City of Brussels, and Kingdom of Belgium.
Sealed the 10th June 1873, and dated the 17th December 1872.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Arthur Charles Hen-
derson at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his
Petition, on the 17th December 1872.
I, ARTHUR CHARLES HENDERSON, of the Firm of Henderson and
Company, British and Foreign Patent Agents, of 31, Charing Cross, in
the County of Middlesex, do hereby declare the nature of the said
Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR
SEWING KID GLoves, and Capable of EmployMENT FOR OTHER PURPOSES," a
.

page_text: communication to me from abroad by Gustave Demailly, Civil Engineer,
of the City of Brussels, and Kingdom of Belgium, to be as follows:-
The sewing machine above referred to, and forming the subject of the
present Invention, is specially intended for sewing gloves, but it is also
useful for other work.
The feature of novelty consists in the employment of a shuttle, to
which is imparted a backward and forward movement inside a copper
tube of small diameter, which both acts as guide to the shuttle, and
support to the material to be sewn; and it is the employment of this
tube that admits of sewing the whole length of the fingers of the gloves
however slender in form, the only hand sewing required being the
extremities of the fingers. The tube is attached to the foot or bed of
the machine, and parallel with the axis of the frame; it is flat on its
upper surface for a certain length.
The backward and forward movement of the shuttle is effected in the
following manner:-A horizontal shaft passes through the head of the
frame of the machine, at one end of which is the fly wheel; to this
shaft at the wheel end is fixed a bevil wheel, which gears with a similar
wheel fixed at the upper end of a vertical shaft, the opposite end of
which terminates in a crank and eccentric shaft, to which latter is fixed
a porte shuttle terminating in a hook (which slides in the tube above
referred to), this hook seizes the shuttle, and causes it to follow the back-
ward and forward movement of the porte shuttle.
The shuttle is furnished at one end with a hook in which that of the
porte shuttle engages. The shuttle is specially constructed to carry silk
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Arthur Charles Henderson in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 14th June 1878.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, ARTHUR 30
CHARLES HENDERSON, of the Firm of Henderson and Company, British
and Foreign Patent Agents, of 31, Charing Cross, in the County of
Middlesex, send greeting.

page_text: WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Seventeeth day of December, in the
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-two, in the
thirty-fifth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors,
give and grant unto me, the said Arthur Charles Henderson, Her
special licence that I, the said Arthur Charles Henderson, my executors,
administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Arthur Charles
Henderson, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any
time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times
thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully
might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of
Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an
Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR
SEWING KID GLOVES, AND CAPABLE OF EMPLOYMENT FOR OTHER PURPOSES," a
communication to me from abroad by Gustave Demailly, Civil Engineer,
of the City of Brussels, and Kingdom of Belgium, upon the condition,
(amongst others), that I, the said Arthur Charles Henderson, my
executors, or adminstrators, by an instrument in writing, under my,
or their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe
and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner
the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the
Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and imme-
diately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Arthur Charles Henderson, do
hereby declare the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in
and by the following statement, and accompanying Drawings, that is to
say:―
The sewing machine forming the subject of the present Invention is
intended and specially constructed for sewing or stitching kid gloves by
means of a shuttle.
The features of novelty consist in the arrangement and construction
of the several parts necessary for effecting this object.
The stitching, as above stated. is effected by aid of a shuttle of a

page_text: material to be sewn, and by its employment the stitching of the most
slender fingers is effected throughout their entire length, it being
merely necessary with this machine to sew by hand the rounded ends of
the fingers.
The following description of the construction and movements of the
machine will suffice to show that the ensemble constitutes a novel
apparatus applied to a new purpose, the result being a great advance in
industry by the mechanical sewing of gloves, and it can be advan-
tageously employed in any other kind of work.
The machine consists of the foot or bed a, to which the frame b is
fixed this is hollow, and in the head is enclosed the several parts
effecting the movement of the needle, and the presser foot or feeder
producing the gradual advance of the material and the regulation of the
stitch. The tube d is of copper and of suitable length, and is fixed to
the foot or base a in a hole bored perfectly parallel with the axis of the
frame b. The machine receives its circular continuous motion from any
motor by aid of the fly wheel e keyed to the horizontal shaft f,"which
traverses the frame b. At the end of the shaft fare fixed a cam g and
plate bearing on the right a circular metal piece i (see Figs. 1 and 7)
forming a cam about the fourth of a turn, and terminating in two
inclined planes; and on the left a small eccentric axis 7, on which a
loose roller turns. The needle arm or bar j is adjusted in a mortise in a
plate c¹ fixed by screws in front of the head c. To the needle arm is
fixed an eccentric K. (see Figs. 1 and 3) of special interior formation, in
which the axis 7 with movable roller engages; the needle is secured at
the lower end of the needle arm or bar j.
In a mortise p (see Fig. 5) made in the head c is placed the presser
foot or feeder m, whose lower end effects the gradual advance of the stuff
to be sown; it is checked by a screw n (see Figs. 1 and 7) fixed at the
side of the head c, and can by means of the slot o (Fig. 1) move
vertically and oscillate in the mortise.
The presser foot m bears a small square branch 7 (Figs. 1 and 7), at
the end of which is a roller "placed in the same plane, and above the
cam g; then towards the centre of the presser foot m is a roller s
movable in a groove rather more than half a circle in dimensions. A
spiral spring 4 fixed on a movable pin 5 to the frame b, and guided by a
small cylindrical shaft, rests on the lower part of the presser foot m; the

page_text: position of the spring is inclined so that it effects its action in two
ways simultaneously, that is to say, vertically and horizontally, by
oscillation.
The horizontal shaft of the machine communicates its circular con-
tinuous motion by aid of two bevil wheels 1 and 2 (of an angle of 45
degrees) to a vertical shaft t which traverses the frame b. At the lower
end of the shaft t is keyed a crank u of a determined course, and united
by the shaft v to the porte shuttle x by the bearing screw z which forms
an articulation. The porte shuttle slides in the tube d, and consists of
a cylindrical body in a manner forming a piston, hollow for a part of its
length to diminish friction, and terminates in a thinner shaft itself
ending in a hook ×¹ destined to scize the shuttle and cause it to follow the
alternate backward and forward movements of the porte shuttle x. The
cylindrical tube d, as far as the point 3, is made on a mandrel of special
form (see Fig. 7) so that its upper surface is flat, whilst its interior
is arranged so that the shuttle is maintained in its normal position.
A plate cu movable on hinges allows of opening for the introduction
and removal of the shuttle (see Figs. 1 and 4.)-
The shuttle 6' is of special construction and can carry either cocoons
and ordinary or other bobbins; it terminates in a hook a, destined to
engage in the hook a³, whilst allowing the shuttle to escape from the loop
formed by the thread of the needle.
The several principal parts forming the machine being thus described
their action will be readily understood.
As soon as the fly wheel e is set in motion, turning the shaft f
which transmits the same circular motion to the vertical shaft t, it will
be seen that the shaft f actuates the needle arm; and presser foot m,
and the shaft t sets the shuttle in motion. The plate h keyed to the
end of the shaft fimparts by aid of the roller and eccentric K (of
special internal formation) see Fig. 3, a sufficient alternate vertical
backward and forward motion to the needle arm j, such motion being
determined by the form of the eccentric K.
The object of the cam y fixed on the plate is to raise the roller 1,
and consequently the presser foot m, and withdraw it from the material
in a vertical manner.
The inclined plane i of the plate h (see Figs. 1 and 7) is intended by
acting on the rollers to separate the presser foot m and withdraw it in a

page_text: horizontal manner by oscillation. The presser foot m is returned to its
position, that is to say, it presses on the material by aid of the spring 4,
which reacts in the vertical and horizontal ways above described. On
the other hand the crank u actuating the shaft and the connecting
screw z which slides in the mortise, imparts to the porte shuttle x and
shuttle b¹ a regular horizontal backward and forward movement at the
same speed as that of the needle arm; and presser foot m.
These movements are communicated to the presser foot m, the needle
arm j, to the material, and to the shuttle x, by the above named organs
and at the necessary moment, that is to say, that the needle plunges into
the material, rises again, forms the loop, which the shuttle passes through
as well as the thread of the shuttle which escapes from the loop by aid
of the hook ¹, by withdrawing while the needle rises, locks the stitch,
and that the presser foot leaves the material in drawing it along to
retake it and bring it again under the needle in proportion to the length
of the stitch, this latter is regulated by the screw e¹, with adjustment f¹,
the end of this screw pressing against the presser foot or feeder m checks
it in its horizontal forward movement, thus determining the delivery of
the material that it draws at the next movement.
The bottom of the presser foot is merely roughed with a piece of not
very coarse emery paper, the usual strid or denticulations being avoided
so that the kid or leather is not marked by it.
The tension and passage of the thread is not mentioned as it does not
differ from that usually employed.
Figure 1 is a longitudinal sectional elevation of a machine; Figure 2
is a transverse section by the axis of the pinion 2 governing the move-
ments of the shuttle; Figure 3 is the head plate showing the eccentric
K, and part of the needle arm j shown in detail; Figure 4 is a sectional
plan of the tube d showing the shuttle b', and movable hinged plate c",
as well as the union of the hooks and x¹ of the shuttle b¹ with the
porte shuttle; Figure 5 is a part plan of the machine, the frame b
being partly in section; Figure 6 is a plan of the bed a on which the
frame 6 is fixed; Figure 7 is a front view of the head of the machine,
the plate c¹ and eccentric K being removed. The same letters of
reference indicate like parts shown in the different Figures.
It has been stated above that the tube d is fixed in a hole bored
parallel with the axis fin a projection of the foot or base a; this pro-

page_text: jection is also pierced with a lower parallel mortise a¹ in which the
connecting or bearing screw z moves, which is fixed to the porte shuttle
x and to the shaft v.
In witness whereof, I, the said Arthur Charles Henderson, have
hercunto set my hand and seal this Fourteenth day of June, in
the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-
three.