Year: 1886

page_text: I, GEORGE NATHAN MARCH, of Newton, Massachusetts, United States of America,
Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement :-
My invention relates to that class of ladies' collars which are provided with
capes; and it consists in a novel construction hereinafter set forth; the object
being to produce a collar which is cheaper than an all-linen collar of the same
general character, and more desirable than a collar having its body and cape both
made of paper or cloth-faced paper.
The nature of the invention will be readily understood by all conversant with
such matters from the following explanation.
In the accompanying drawing,
Figure 1 is an elevation of an unfolded collar; and
Figures 2 and 3 are isometrical perspective views of folded collars.
A represents the body, B the flap and D the cape.
The lower edge of the body is cut on an upwardly curved line from x to x, and
the outer edge of the flap on an upwardly curved line from m to m, these lines or
curves being in parallelism with each other throughout their length.
A folding crease or indentation C is formed between the body and flap B. This
crease is also curved upwardly and its curvature is less than that of the lower edge
of the band from x to x, or the outer edge of the flap from m to m, and hence it
forms the arc of a circle which is greater in diameter than the respective circles of
which the curves, x, x and m, m, are arcs, thus making the body wider at either
end from its lower edge at f to the crease at r, than it is at the centre, or from
its lower edge at v to the crease at t; and the flap wider at its centre, or from its
inner edge at t to its outer edge at a, than it is at either end, or from its inner
edge at r, to its outer edge at b.
The body A is composed of the ordinary cloth-faced paper used in the manu-
facture of cheap collars, but may be composed wholly of paper if desired, although
cloth-faced paper is preferable.
The cape is composed of cloth, muslin, linen or other similar materials, and its
upper edge attached to the lower edge of the body A by one or more rows or
series of stitches y being otherwise left entirely free.

page_text: The collar may be worn with the flap B on the outer side as shown in Figure 2,
or on the inner side as shown in Figure 3.
When the flap is designed to be worn on the outer side of the body it is
preferable to form the collar as shown in Figure 1, that is to say, with the lower
edge of the body and outer edge of the flap cut on corresponding curves and to
crease it on a different curve as described, so that when the flap is turned down
over the body, as shown in Figure 2, there will be a strain on the flap from a, at
its centre, to k, at either end on the lines i, i, which will tend to keep the points
or corners m in proper position, or from turning up when the collar is worn.
When the flap is designed to be worn on the inner side of the body, as shown in
Figure 3, the lower edge of the body A and outer edge of the flap B are cut on
straight parallel lines, the crease C being also formed on a straight line in
parallelism with the outer edge of the flap; when the outer edge of the collar
becomes soiled from wear the collar is turned inside out or "reversed," the flap B.
being raised and folded down upon the opposite side of the body so as to be on the
inner side thereof after the collar is reversed. The reverse folding of the flap
covers the soiled surface, and, exposes a clean surface along the upper edge of the
collar its entire length.
.
When the flap is worn on the outer side of the body, as shown in Figure 2, the
collar may be reversed, if desired, in substantially the same manner as described
for the style shown in Figure 3.
The cloth-faced paper used in the manufacture of collars is nearly impervious to
both water and air, and hence, for obvious reasons, is unfitted for constructing the
cape D of the collar; while a collar having its body composed of linen and its cape
of linen or muslin is more expensive than is always desirable.
It is also unusual to provide a collar, which has a cape, with an overturned flap,
as such collars are generally made of linen.
My improvement is designed to obviate these objections by enabling a collar to
be produced which is not only cheap, but possesses all of the advantages, so far as
the cape is concerned, of an all-linen collar, while at the same time it is free from
all the objections which would result from .the use of cloth-faced paper in the
construction of the cape, and is adapted to be turned or reversed.
If preferred, the collar, when made with an inturned flap, as shown in figure 3,
may have its body cut on parallel curved lines and its folding crease formed on a
curve, as shown in Figure 1, but I do not deem the same essential.
"
When the collar is made with an inwardly turned flap, as shown in Figure 3,
I einboss the body or provide it with an ornamental line 7, preferably in imitation
of a row of stitches, at some distance from its folding line and extending around
the collar to make what I term a "tape edge." This edge may also be applied to
the collars having outwardly turned flaps, as shown in Figure 2, if desired.
In cutting the body of the collar it may be so formed as to leave a small space z
between the ends of the flap, as shown in Figure 2, or the ends of the flap and the
body may overlap, as shown in Figure 3.
The collars are provided with imitation stitches in the usual manner; and also
with a hole g for the stud.
I do not confine myself to the use of the "tape-edge" formed by the line l.
Neither do I confine myself to forming the crease C on a curved line, when the
collar is formed as shown in Figure 2, as it may be made straight if desired; nor
to cutting the lower edge of the body and outer edge of the flap on absolutely
parallel lines, as they may be cut on lines which are approximately parallel,
without departing from the spirit of my invention.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is
First. A lady's collar having a body composed of paper or cloth-faced paper,
nravidad at its unnan adres with 'n Aan internal thorowith and odanted to fold

page_text: inward or outward for rendering the collar reversible; and with a cape composed
of cloth, muslin, linen, or similar material stitched at its upper edge to the lower
edge of said body, said collar being embossed or provided with an ornamental line
to form a "tape-edge," substantially as described.
Second. A lady's collar having a body composed of paper or cloth-faced paper
provided with a cape composed of muslin, cloth, linen or similar materials attached
to the lower edge thereof, and at its upper edge with an outwardly turned flap
integral with said body, the lower edge of the body and outer edge of the flap
being cut on upwardly curved parallel lines, and the flap folded on an upwardly
curved line of less curvature than that on which the lower edge of the band is cut,
substantially as set forth.
Third. A lady's collar having a body composed of paper or cloth-faced paper,
and provided with an out-turned flap integral with said body, and with a cape
composed of muslin, cloth, linen or similar materials, the lower edge of the body
and the outer edge of the flap being cut on correspondingly curved lines, substan-
tially as described.
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
Agents for the Applicant.