IMPROVEMENTS IN APPARATUS USED IN SEWING
Year: 1853

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Robert Smith Bartlect, of Redditch, in the
County of Worcester, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS
IN APPARATUS USED IN SEWING."
ealed the 25th January 1854, and dated the 12th August 18
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Robert Smith
Bartleet at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with
his Petition, on the 12th August 1853.
I, ROBERT SMITH BARTLEET, of Redditch, in the County of
Worcester, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention
for IMPROVEMENTS IN APPARATUS USED IN SEWING" to be as fol-
lows:
The improvements consist,
First, of causing each of the sockets or holders of the straight
needles to be made capable of receiving and holding different sizes
of needles by a diminishing or contracting of the holding parts,
so that, whatever the size of needle applied, it will still have the
same centre of action; and in cases where the needles, by their
differences in size, will by the mcde of fixing be changed in their
centre of action, I cause the holder or socket of the needle to be
moveable, to allow of the same being adjusted to different posi-
tions, consequent on using different sizes of needles in the same
S

page_text: holders or sockets; also to the application of a sliding plate acted
upon by a set screw, to retain the needle or needle carrier in position.
Secondly, to the application of a regulating screw to the plate
carrying the needle socket in order to adjust the position of the
needle.
Thirdly, to the application of a guage to the edge of the fabric
to guide it whilst being sewn, in order that the stitches follow
may
each other in a regular or given line.
Fourthly, to the application of an indicator to the instrument
which regulates the length of the stitches, to show the length of
stitch being produced.
Fifth y to the application of rolling surfaces fixed in the table
or surface to assist, by diminishing the friction, the feeding of the
fabric or material to be sewn into and conducting it away from the
sewing apparatus; also, to the application of plates of glass in
the bed or table of the machine, to facilitate the movement of
fabric being sewn.
Sixthly, to making the foot which holds the material being sewn
of glass; also to the application of an indicator to the foot to
assist in obtaining parallel rows of sewing.
Seventhly, to the application of clips or holders to hold two or
more thicknesses of fabric or material whilst being sewn together
in place of what is called "basting."
Eighthly, to the application of a friction break to act upon the
thread being drawn off the bobbins, spools, or reels from which
the thread is drawn, to give tension thereto.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters
Patent, filed by the said Robert Smith Bartleet in the Great
Seal Patent Office on the 11th February 1854.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, 3
I, ROBERT SMITH BARTLEET, of Redditch, in the County of
Worcester, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by
Her Letters Patent, bearing date the Twelfth day of August, in

page_text: the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-three, S
in the seventeenth year of Her reign, did, for Ierself, Her heirs
and successors, give and grant unto me, the said Robert Smith
Bartleet, Her special licence that I, the said Robert Smith Bartleet,
my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the
said Robert Smith Bartleet, my executors, administrators, and
assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time
to time and at all times thereafter during the term therein ex-
pressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend,
within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the
Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN APPARATUS USED IN SEWING," upon the condition (amongst
others) that I, the said Robert Smith Bartleet, by an instrument
in writing under my hand and seal, should particularly describe
and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what
manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same
to be filed in the Great Scal Patent Office within six calendar
months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters
Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Robert Smith Bartlcet,
do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described
and ascertained in and by the following statement thereof (that is
to say):
The improvements relate to various modifications and novel
arrangement of parts of apparatus used for sewing where needles.
or other thread carriers are used, and also to means for holding
two or more thicknesses of fabric together whilst being sewed.
But that the Invention may be fully understood I will pro-
ceed to describe the Drawing hereto annexed.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWING.
Figure 1, shews a plan; Figure 2, a front view; Figure 3, a
side view; Figure 4, a section; and Figures 5, and 6, detailed
views of apparatus, with parts arranged according to my Invention.
d, a, is the framing of the machine. b, is the main axis upon

page_text: which are affixed the cams by which the various movements of the
apparatus are effected, there being a handle b', on the wheel
affixed to the axis b, by which motion is given to the axis b; or
motion may
be given to the axis b, by a gut or band acting in the
groove on the periphery of the wheel &, and set in motion by a
steam engine or otherwise. c, and d, are the two needles; the
needle c, is the straight one, and it is carried by the plate e, by
which it receives the requisite motion for piercing the fabric and
passing the thread through; such motion being given in the fol-
lowing manner-Upon the axis b, is affixed the cam e', which
receives the truck or roller e, formed on one end of the lever e,
which turns upon an axis at e; and at its other end has projecting
pins, which are received between the openings formed on the
nut e, which is affixed to the plate e, but so as to be capable of
adjustment by being slided in the slot e", formed in that plate
whilst it is fixed for the time being in any desired position by
means of the screw e, whose lower end turns freely in the nut e',
whilst its thread runs in the female screw formed in the projec-
tion e, at the back of the plate e. By the turning of this
screw, in one or the other direction, the point of the needle will
be enabled to pass a longer or shorter distance through the fabric;
and it is this means of adjustment to the needle which constitutes
one peculiarity of the Invention.
The needle c, is affixed to the plate e, by being held between the
fixed plate c', and the adjustable sliding plate &, which is caused
to pinch the needle closely by means of the set screw c³; and it
is this mode of arranging the holding means for the needle, by
which the same is capable of holding various sized needles, that
constitutes another feature of the Invention. f, is the foot for
holding the fabric whilst the insertion of the straight needle
takes place. The foot is affixed to the guide rod f¹, and is borne
downwards by the spring f, as shewn; the spring yielding some-
what to the pressure of the instrument g, when that instrument
moves the fabric for a fresh stitch. And one peculiarity of my
Invention consists of forming the foot f, of glass; glass being more
cleanly and better adapted for some class of goods. f³, is a pointer

page_text: to be used when sewing two rows of stitches parallel to each
other, so as to keep each row at an uniform distance from the
preceding. This pointer I form by preference of steel; but this
may be varied, and it is capable of turning upon the screw pin f',
so that its point may be varied to the distance required between
the succeeding rows of stitches.
Thread is supplied to the needle c, from the bobbin h, as
shewn; and another improvement consists in applying pressure to
the surface of the thread upon such bobbins, with a capability of
that pressure being regulated, to ensure an uniform tension upon
the thread. That which I have found to answer well, I have,
shewn by the Drawings. It consists of a bar, pressing against
the surface of the thread wound on the bobbin, the bar h', having
a stem, which is pressed on by one end of the weighted lever h³,
the pressure exerted by which is capable of being regulated by
the position of the weight . In place, however, of weighted,
spring pressure may be applied, with a regulating screw to adjust
that pressure; and, although I have only shown such pressure
applied to one of the thread bobbins, it may be applied to both.
The lower needle d, is affixed to the axis d', upon which is formed
the pinion d, which is taken into by the toothed segment d",
formed on the lever d', which turns upon the axis d", and at its
other end carries the pin d', which passes into the groove formed
in the cam d', affixed to the axis b. Thus is the requisite move-
ment given to the needle d, all which, however, forms no part of
the present Invention. The instrument g, by its roughened
surface g', takes hold of and moves the fabric being sewn, after
each stitch, a distance equal to the length of stitches required; and
the necessary upward and forward movements to the instrument g,
are controlled by means of the tappets g, g, respectively, and the
instrument g, is borne to the tappets g, g, by means of the
springs g, g. The instrument g, is at all times borne towards the
stop 9, by the spring g'; and that the amount of motion effected
by the tappet g', may be regulated to the length of stitch required,
the tappet g, is caused to act upon the adjustable piece g', which
is adjustable by the nuts g³, g³, as shewn. But hitherto no means

page_text: have been applied by which to indicate the length of stitch for
the time being made, and I have applied the pointer glo, which
moving with the slide g, indicates upon the graduated surface of
the instrument g, the length of stitch being made. And I would
state, that I do not confine myself to this arrangement of indicator,
as that may be varied. But this part of my Invention consists in
applying an indicator to shew the length of stitch at any required
time being made.
Another part of the Invention relates to the application of an
adjustable guage to guide the edge of the fabric whilst being
sewn, in order that the stitches may follow each other in a regular
line. The guage i, it will be seen, is straight; but this may be
varied, and it is capable of being fixed to the table of the machine
by set screws i, i¹, as shewn; and there are graduations at j, j, by
which to make the necessary adjustments of the guage i. But
the mode of applying an adjusting guage may be varied, and I
have indicated another arrangement by blue lines, in which case
the gauge i, is affixed by a tight joint i, to the link in, and the
link moves upon a centre of motion at it.
Another improvement consists in the application of rollers k, k,
in the bed or table of the machine, to facilitate the movement of
the fabric passing through the machine. And I would state that
although I have shewn only two rollers, other number may be
applied if necessary. I also, in some cases, apply plates of glass
in the bed or surface a', of, the machine, to facilitate the move-
ment of the fabric being sewn by diminishing the friction thereof;
and such application constitutes another part of my Invention.
The glass used may be ornamented if desired.
Another part of my Invention consists of a novel arrangement
of parts for holding the needle, by which various sizes of needles
may be held in the same holder, and each when applied have the
same centre of action. Figure 7, shews an external view, and
Figure 8, an enlarged view in section of an arrangement accord-
ing to this part of the Invention. c, is the needle which at its
upper end is formed with a point which is received into the upper
conical part of the tube.k, whilst the needle is clipped by the

page_text: lower end k, of the tube k; and this lower end in the arrangement
shewn, is split so as to present four surfaces, and is somewhat
elastic, to be capable of pressing tightly against the needle, and
these surfaces are enclosed by the ring or tube A, which is formed
with a female screw, to take into the male screw formed on the
surface of the tube k; and the lower end of the ring or tube A², is
contracted, so as to press against the parts k¹, and when screwed
on to the tube k, the contracted end of the ring or tube k², will
press inwards the lower ends of the parts k¹, and cause them to
nip tightly the needle placed within them. The holder k, is then
to be placed in the position of the needle c, Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, and
held as there explained, or it may be otherwise affixed to the
plate e.
Another part of the Invention consists in the application of
spring clips or holders to hold two or more thicknesses of fabric
or material together whilst being sewn. Clips or holders accord-
ing to this part of the Invention are shewn at Figures 9, and 10.
I do not, however, confine myself to the forms or arrangements
shewn, as these may be varied.
Having thus described the nature of my said Invention, and the
means by which the same may be carried into effect, I would have
it understood that I do not confine myself to the precise details
shewn and described. But what 1 claim is, the modes of
arranging, combining, and working apparatus used in sewing, as
herein explained.
In witness whereof, I, the said Robert Smith Bartlect, have
hereunto set my hand and seal, this Ninth day of February,
in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and
S
Witness,
JOHN BARTLEET.
ROBERT SMITH BARTLEET. (L.S.)