AN IMPROVED MANUFACTURE OF COVERINGS FOR THE BUSKS OF STAYS AND OTHER ARTICLES OF DRESS
Year: 1885

page_text: and other Articles Of Dress.
I, JULES DUPUIS of 95 Boulevard Beaumarchais, Paris, France, manufacturer do
hereby declare the nature of said Invention for "AN IMPROVED MANUFACTURE OF
COVERINGS FOR THE BUSKS OF STAYS AND OTHER ARTICLES OF DRESS " to be as
follows:-
Busks are usually composed of a thin strip of whalebone or flexible metal
covered with some material and are used in the manufacture of corsets dresses and
other articles. For a long time these articles have been inade by simply gumming
round the metal strip the ribbon which is intended to cover it. More recently this
mode of manufacture has been substituted either by sewing or weaving a sheath in
which the band of metal or whalebone is placed and held there with or without
adhesive material the said sheath being provided right and left with free parts and
projecting material intended to fix the busk by sewing. Adhesive material has
also alone been employed by leaving to the right and left a certain proportion of
the ribbon serving as the envelope.
The different means which have been substituted for that formerly in use
present grave inconveniences. Those which consist in forming a sheath avoiding
the use of adhesive material are complicated and costly. That arrangement where
adhesive material is used by forming to the right and left free parts of the material
intended to secure the busk is difficult to execute owing to the necessity of care-
fully arranging during the adhesing process the projecting portions of the ribbon,
necessitating a delicate and long operation.
With the view of remedying these inconveniences I combine a kind of busk
covering which while possessing the necessary projections to fix it to the material
at the same time enables it to be used for holding the envelope on the metallic
band, the old means of adhesion consisting in sticking this band without having to
leave projecting a certain breadth of material which forms the envelope. I thus
obtain a kind of busk covering altogether of a novel appearance having a sufficient
number of projections for the stitching on and which owing to the form of the
ribbon employed as a covering allows of the very simple and rapid application
of the means of adhesion formerly employed. My invention is based upon the
employment as a covering for the whalebone or flexible metallic band of a trimming
or goffered cord or twist in such manner that when it is folded on the band the

page_text: goffers form a series of undulating projections which are available to fix the busk
to the material intended to receive it. The trimming or cord intended to form the
envelope is gummed on the band absolutely in the same manner and without
greater care than if it was done by the sticking down of the ribbon according to
the old plan and when this operation is finished I obtain a busk covering having
an elegant and characteristic appearance.
The trimming or cord employed in the manufacture is first goffered by passing
it over a hot cylinder having projections corresponding with the different swellings
or projections on the fabric. These latter are formed on two parallel lines the
distance of which is exactly equal to the width of the metal core which is to form
the body of the busk. Under these conditions the core or metallic band having
been previously covered with some suitable adhesive material; to make the busk
all that is necessary is to place this core on the envelope between the lines on the
opposite side to the projections then to cover it by pressing down the bands of
trimming or cords situate outside of the space comprised between the lines, during
this pressing or heating down the envelope should be well stretched as is done in
the old plan in order to make an intimate contact with the edges of the metal.
This arrangement presents the peculiarity altogether characteristic of affording
laterally, projections due essentially to the particular form of material employed
and not to the manner in which the material is secured to the blade of the busk.
In a word I insist on this fact as being of the greatest importance. The new
product obtained is, not by the result of the mode of application of the envelope on
the metal but through the special form given to the trimming or goffered cord
employed.
It is to be understood that the number and the spacing of the projections may
be whatever is desired also that the nature, the width, as well as the shade of the
material intended to form the envelope, and the kind of material constituting the
core of the busk may be varied.

page_text: and other Articles of Dress.
I, JULES DUPUIS of 95 Boulevard Beaumarchais, Paris, France, Manufacturer, do
liereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be
performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:
My invention relates to an improved manufacture of coverings for busks for
stays, corsets, bodices, and such like articles of dress, whereby such coverings, while
being cemented on to the busk in the usual manner, provide lateral means of
attachment for securing the same to the article of dress.
Busks whether of whale bone, steel, or other material, have heretofore been..
covered by folding round them a strip of suitable textile material ribbon or tape
cemented thereto; more recently a sheath of such material has been formed by
sewing or weaving into which the busk is inserted, either with or without cement-
ing, and which in some cases has been provided with lateral projecting edges
serving to attach the busk to the corset &c; such lateral projecting edges have also
sometimes been formed upon the cemented coverings first mentioned. These various
arrangements offer certain disadvantages of manufacture, the sheath like coverings
that avoid the cementing process are expensive and complicated in their manu-
facture; those formed by cementing on a strip of fabric while leaving projecting
edges thereof are difficult to produce, as in cementing on the strip of fabric the
formation of the projecting edges requires a delicate and lengthy manipulation.
According to my invention I obviate these difficulties by forming a covering,
which, while providing the necessary lateral projections for attachment, can be
secured to the busk by cementing in the simple and easy way previously employed
with coverings having no projections.
By my said invention I produce a covered busk of novel appearance namely
having undulating lateral projections of the fabric along both its sides, as I will
now proceed to explain.
I take a strip, ribbon or tape of any suitable material having the required width,
and I pass it between rollers or dies with projections and recesses so that certain
portions thereof at a distance from the edge become bulged or goffered in such a
manner as to present two lines of undulating bulges parallel to the edges project-
ing up from the face of the fabric. Thus when the outer parts of the fabric
situated beyond the lines of bulges are fulded over on to the busk, the said bulges
project laterally on each side thereof, the inner space between the lines of bulges
being made to correspond exactly in width with the width of the busk.
The invention will be readily understood on reference to the accompanying
drawing, in which Fig. 1 shews a plan of the strip of fabric, ribbon or tape after
being bulged or goffered as described, and Fig. 2 shews a cross section of the same;
Figs. 3 and 4 shew respectively a plan and cross section of the busk with the.
covering folded over and cemented thereto.
The strip of material A is in the first instance passed through heated cylinders
or dies having projections and recesses so formed as to produce on the material the

page_text: bulges or gofferings B B along the two parallel lines C D, E F, the distance
between these being exactly equal to the width of the busk. By this operation
the edges of the fabric will also assume the undulating form indicated. The busk
or steel, previously coated with suitable cement, is then placed on the fabric in the
space between the bulges, but on the side opposite to the latter, and the outer edges
being then folded over the upper face of the busk, the covering will assume the
shape indicated at Figs. 3 & 4, with the undulating projections B on each side of
the busk. In folding over the edges, the fabric should be well stretched, as was
the case with the old cemented coverings, in order to insure perfect adhesion of the
covering of the busk.
Thus a covering with lateral projectious is produced, requiring no greater trouble
in its application to the busk than the ordinary cemented coverings without lateral
projections.
It will be evident that the number and form of the projections may be varied in
any desired manner.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is
An improved manufacture of coverings for busks consisting of a strip of fabric,
band or tape having two lines of bulges or gofferings formed along it, so that when
such strip or band is folded over on the busks the said bulges or gofferings will
constitute lateral projections by means of which the busks can be attached to
articles of dress, substantially as herein described.
Dated this 12th day of November 1885.
ABEL & IMRAY,
Agents for the Applicant,
28, Southampton Buildings,
London, W.C.