Improvements in Attaching Buttons to Garments, Bags, and other articles, and in Tools used for that Purpose.
Year: 1892

page_text: Date of Application, 3rd Nov.. 1892
Complete Specification Left, 25th July, 1893-Accepted, 26th Aug., 1893
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Attaching Buttons to Garments, Bags, and other
articles, and in Tools used for that Purpose.
I HENRY DOWLER, of the Firm of Frederick Dowler and Sons, of Wainwright
Street Works, Aston near Birmingham in the County of Warwick, Manufacturers
do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
In the Complete Specification of Letters Patent granted to me dated
March 12th 1890 No. 3897 I have described represented and claimed among
other things a method of attaching buttons to garments and other articles; and part
of my present invention consists of an improvement or improvements in the said
method of attaching buttons. This part of my invention is especially applicable
to the attaching of buttons to moleskin corduroy and the like; but for convenience
of description I will hereinafter call the material to which the button is attached
the "fabric" irrespective of the particular material designated by the word
"fabric."
In the method referred to of attaching buttons to fabrics, a loose metallic
washer is usually placed between a collar on the button stem and the surface of
the fabric.
According to my present invention 1 join or rigidly connect this washer to the
This
said stem by raising a short tube around the central hole in the washer.
tubular part of the washer enters the space between the two parts of the stem
when the said washer placed on the stem. By pressure the mouth of the said
tubular part of the washer is expanded and fixed between the two parts of the
stem. The combined stem and washer is joined to the button and the button
attached to the fabric in the manner described in the Specification referred to.
This
Another part of my invention consists in the employment of a hollow washer or
back plate to receive and cover the end of the button stem when the button is
attached to the fabric. When buttons are attached to fabrics in the manner
described in the Specification of Letters Patent granted to me dated March 12th 1890
No. 3896 the expanded end of the hollow stem of the button on being fully clinched
is sometimes ragged and unsightly and the outer edge of the washer is sharp and
liable in wear to fray the fabric. In order to cover and conceal the said expanded
end of the stem and to give a rounded edge and smooth surface to the back of the
button fastening, I employ a hollow washer or back plate having at its middle a
hole somewhat larger than the unexpanded end of the hollow button stem.
back plate may be either a hollow disc made of two metallic shells joined by
their edges; or it may be made of one piece of metal by the ordinary raising
process. When made of two shells as just described, the faces of the disc are
convex and nearly alike so that in the process of attaching the button either face
may rest on the clinching tool with similar effect. Sometimes I raise a short
tube on the outer side of one of the shells for guiding the end of the button
stem but I do not confine myself to these details as the form may be varied
without departing from the nature of my invention. In attaching the button the
hollow backplate is dropped on the pointed stiletto hereinafter referred to. By
the pressure applied in attaching the button the open end of the hollow stem is
expanded into the space between the front and back of the hollow shell and
thereby covered and concealed at the same time the back plate is partially
flattened and the expanded end of the button stem gripped between the sides the
back of the fastening having a smooth surface. To facilitate the expansion of
the end of the hollow stem it may be serrated or divided by two or more slits.
Another of my improvements consists in the following modification of the piercing

page_text: +
a
and fixing tool of stiletto employed in attaching buttons to fabrics. I form at
the base of the said piercing tool a shoulder of somewhat larger diameter than the
hollow stem of the button and of a thickness about equal to one half of the thickness
of the hollow disc. The stiletto or piercer passes into the shoulder described by
concave curve which expands the end of the button stem when pressed thereon.
In attaching the button the back plate is first placed on the stiletto or piercer
and rests on the surface carrying the said piercer. The shoulder at the base of
the piercer occupies the lower half of the space between the sides of the hollow
back plate. The fabric and button being put in position and pressure applied, the
lower open end of the hollow stem is forced through the fabric and expanded into
the hollow back plate, the expansion of the lower end of the stem the compression
of the hollow backplate and the attachment of the button to the fabric being at the
same time effected.
The stiletto or piercer with a shoulder at its base for the purpose described is
preferably actuated in a press or in pliers like those described in the Specification
of Letters Patent dated March 12th 1890 No. 3896 herein before referred to,
though it may be mounted in other presses of well known kinds with like effect.
When the tools are fixed in pliers I notch the piercer at a short distance from
the point to prevent the fabric slipping off while the button is adjusted for
clinching.
Buttons and the parts constituting their back fastenings are sometimes connected
by a thin strip of metal bent round or doubled on the edge of the fabric. In this
case the washer described may be raised at one end of the connecting strip and the
back plate at the other, the said parts, that is, the washer connecting strip and
back plate, being in one piece.
Dated the 3rd day of November 1892.
W. T. WHITEMAN,
Agent for the Applicant.
:
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Attaching Buttons to Garments, Bags, and other
articles, and in Tools used for that Purpose.
IHENRY DOWLER of the Firm of Frederick Dowler and Sons of Wainwright
Street Works, Aston near Birmingham in the County of Warwick, Manufacturers
do hereby declare the nature of my invention and in what manner the same is
to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement :-
In the Complete Specification of Letters Patent granted to
me dated
March 12th 1890 No. 3897, I have described, represented and claimed, among
other things, a method of attaching buttons to garments and other articles and
part of my present invention consists of an improvement or improvements in the
said method of attaching buttons. This part of my invention is especially
applicable to the attaching of buttons to moleskin corduroy and the like, but for
convenience of description I will hereinafter call the material to which the button
is attached the "fabric" irrespective of the particular material designated by the
word." fabric."
In the method referred to of attaching buttons to fabrics, a loose metallic washer
is usually placed between a collar on the button stem and the surface of the fabric.
According to my present invention I join or rigidly connect this washer to the
said stem by raising a short tube around the central hole in the washer. This
tubular part of the washer enters the space between the two parts of the stem
when the said washer is placed on the stem. By pressure the mouth of the said
tubular part of the washer is expanded and fixed between the two parts of the
stem.. The combined stem and washer is joined to the button and the button
attached to the fabric in the manner described in the Specification referred to.

page_text: Another part of my invention consists in the employment of a hollow washer or
back plate to receive and cover the end of the button stem when the button is
attached to the fabric. When buttons are attached to fabrics in the manner
described in the Specification of Letters Patent granted to me. dated March 12th
1890 No. 3896, the expanded end of the hollow stem of the button on being fully
clinched is sometimes ragged and unsightly and the outer edge of the washer is
sharp and liable in wear to fray the fabric. In order to cover and conceal the said
expanded end of the stem and to give a rounded edge and smooth surface to the
back of the button fastening, I employ a hollow washer or back plate having at
its middle a hole somewhat larger than the unexpanded end of the hollow button
stem. This back plate may be either a hollow disc made of two metallic shells
joined by their edges; or it may be made of one piece of metal by the ordinary
raising process.
When made of two shells as just described, the faces of the disc
are convex and nearly alike so that in the process of attaching the button either
face may rest on the clinching tool with similar effect. Sometimes I raise a short
tube on the outer side of one of the shells for guiding the end of the button stem
but I do not confine myself to these details as the form may be varied without
departing from the nature of my invention. In attaching the button, the hollow
backplate is dropped on the pointed stiletto hereinafter referred to. By the pressure
applied in attaching the button the open end of the hollow stem is expanded into
the space between the frent and back of the hollow shell and thereby covered and
concealed, at the same time the back plate is partially flattened and the expanded
end of the button stem gripped between the sides, the back of the fastening having
a smooth surface. To facilitate the expansion of the end of the hollow stem it
may be serrated or divided by two or more slits.
Another of my improvements consists in the following modification of the
piercing and fixing tool or stiletto employed in attaching buttons to fabrics. I
form at the base of the said piercing tool a shoulder of somewhat larger diameter
than the hollow stem of the button and of a thickness about equal to one half of
the thickness of the hollow disc. The stiletto or piercer passes into the shoulder
described by a concave curve which expands the end of the button stem when
pressed thereon. In attaching the button the back plate is first placed on the
stiletto or piercer and rests on the surface carrying the said piercer.
The shoulder
at the base of the piercer occupies the lower half of the space between the sides
of the hollow back plate. The fabric and button being put in position and pressure
applied the lower open end of the hollow stem is forced through the fabric and
expanded into the hollow back plate, the expansion of the lower end of the stem,
the compression of the hollow back plate and the attachment of the button to the
fabric being at the same time effected.
The stiletto or piercer with a shoulder at its base for the purpose described is
preferably actuated in a press or in pliers like those described in the Specification
of Letters Patent dated March 12th 1890 No. 3896, hereinbefore referred to,
though it may be mounted in other presses of well known kinds with like effect.
When the tools are fixed in pliers I notch the piercer at a short distance from the
point to prevent the fabric slipping off while the button is adjusted for clinching.
Buttons and the parts constituting their back fastenings are sometimes connected
by a thin strip of metal bent round or doubled on the edge of the fabric. In this
case the washer described may be raised at one end of the connecting strip and the
back plate at the other, the said parts, that is, the washer, connecting strip and
back plate, being in one piece.
I will now proceed to describe with reference to the accompanying drawings the
manner in which my invention is to be performed.
Figure 1 represents in section a metallic button, the stem of which, made in two
pieces, is provided with a rigidly joined washer according to my invention, the said
rigidly joined washer being used in place of the ordinary loose washer placed
between the collar on the button stem and the front of the moleskin, corduroy or
other thick fabric to which the button is to be attached.

page_text: gure represents in section and plan one of my patented domed back plates
which I prefer to use in attaching the button to the thick fabric.
Figure 3 represents in section and plan of underside the button Figure 1
provided with the rigidly connected washer attached by the use of the domed back
plate Figure 2 to the thick fabric.
Figure 4 represents in elevation, section and plan, the button stem before the
washer is attached to it;
Figure 5 represents in section and plan the washer separately and
Figure 6 represents in section and plan the button stem after the washer has
been rigidly connected to it.
The same letters of reference indicate the same parts in the several figures of
the drawings, and the principal figures are drawn to a large scale.
The washer is marked a and has raised around its central hole a short tube b.
The button stem to which the washer a, b is to be attached consists of two parts c
and d so connected together as to form a collar e at their junction, the lower edge
of the top part c being furnished with a cup which is closed upon the upper edge
of the lower part d. Between the parts forming the collar e of the button stem c,
an annular space f is left of a size and shape proper for receiving the tubular part b
of the washer.
d
as
In attaching the washer a, b to the compound button stem c, d, the washer is
placed on the lower part d of the stem and its tubular part made to enter the
space between the two parts of the collar e. By pressure the collar e of the stem
is flattened and expanded and the mouth of the tubular part of the washer fixed
between the two parts of the flattened and expanded collar of the stem
represented in Figures and 6. The washer a is thus rigidly connected to the
button stem and virtually forms a part of it. The combined stem and washer is
secured to the button y by clinching or expanding the mouth of the upper part e of
the stem within the cup of the button gas represented in Figure 1.
The button is
now ready to be sent into commerce. In attaching the button to the thick fabric,
the part d of the stem is passed through a hole pierced in the fabric so that the
rigidly attached washer a bears against the front of the fabric and the domed back
plate is placed on the stem protruding at the back of the fabric.
By the
clinching process, the said back plate is attached to the stem and to the fabric,
the fabric being gripped between the rigidly connected washer a on the button stem
and the flange of the domed back plate has represented in Figure 3.
Figure 7 represents in section a metallic button the expanded end of the tubular
stem of which is covered and concealed and a rounded edge and a smooth surface
given to the back of the fastening, by means of a hollow washer or disc like back
plate according to my invention and Figure 8 represents the button and Figure 9
the hollow washer or disc like back plate before they are attached to the fabric.
The hollow washer or back plate represented in Figures 7 and 9 consists of a
hollow disc composed of two metallic shells of different sizes, shown separately in
Figures 10 and 11 and marked respectively i and 2, joined edge to edge; that is,
the smaller shell being placed within the larger shell as represented in Figure 12
the flange or edge of the larger shell is closed upon the edge of the smaller and inner
shell as represented in Figures 9 and 13.
In attaching the button Figure 8 to the fabric, the hollow disc like back plate i, i
is placed on the pointed stiletto hereinafter described and illustrated in the accom-
panying drawings before the fabric is placed on the stiletto. By the pressure
applied in attaching the button, the open end of the hollow stem is expanded into
the space between the front and back of the hollow back plate which is at the same
time flattened and the expanded end of the button stem gripped between the closed
sides of the said flattened back plate. The button is thereby attached to the fabric,
the fabric being gripped between the collar on the hollow button stem and the
hollow back plate as represented in Figure 7. The button thus fastened to the
fabric has a smooth surface at back and is without the defects herein before pointed
out. As the faces of the disc like hollow back plate made of two shells are nearly

page_text: alike, either face may rest upon the clinching tool in the process of attaching the
button. The hollow back plate made of two shells may be provided on one of its
faces with a short tube for guiding the end of the button stem, as represented in
section and plan in Figure 14 where the short guiding tube is marked
Figure 15 represents a hollow back plate made of one piece of metal by the
ordinary raising process and Figure 16 represents the hollow back plate Figure 15 in
connection with an attached button the flattened hollow back plate being marked k,
the attaching of the button Figure 16 and the flattening of the hollow back plate k
being effected by the clinching process as described with respect to Figure 7.
When a hollow back plate made of one piece of metal is required to have a
central perforation of the same size as that represented in Figure 15 but of
considerably larger outer diameter, it assists the shaping process to notch the
turned over edge of the blank in the manner illustrated in Figure 17.
Figure 18 represents a button having a hollow stem made in two pieces in which
the end of the stem is serrated or divided by slits at to facilitate the expansion
of the said end during the clinching process.
The improved or modified stiletto constructed according to my present invention
which I use in attaching, by a clinching operation, buttons having hollow washers
or backplates as last described is represented in combination with a press in side
elevation in Figure 19 and drawn to a larger scale detached, before the clinching
operation, in Figure 20 and after the clinching operation in Figure 21; Figure 22
represents in elevation the upper part of the stiletto detached; m is the stiletto or
pointed piercing and fixing tool mounted in the bed n of the press and p is the
presser having a curvilinear motion on the centre 2 for forcing the hollow stem of
the button through the hole in the fabric and for effecting the clinching operation.
Near the base of the stiletto or piercing tool m is a shoulder q of somewhat larger
diameter than the hollow stem of the button and of a thickness about equal to one
half of the hollow back plate. It will be seen by an examination of the drawing
that the body of the stiletto or piercing tool m passes into the shoulder q by a
concave curve at q' (see Figure 22) which concave curve at q' expands the end of
the button stem when the latter is acted upon and pressed thereon by the presser p
as hereinafter described.
In attaching the button to the fabric by the use of my improved stiletto or
piercing tool m, q, q, the hollow washer or back plate i is first placed on the stiletto m
and made to rest on the concave base or seat q³ carrying the stiletto the shoulder
near the base of the stiletto occupying the lower half of the space between the sides
of the hollow back plate i as represented in Figure 20. The fabric to which the
button is to be attached having been passed onto the stiletto m and the hollow stem
of the button having been placed on the point of the stiletto, the presser p of the
press is brought down upon the button, into the position indicated in dotted lines
in Figure 19. By the pressure thus applied the lower open end of the hollow stem
of the button is forced through the hole in the fabric and expanded into the hollow
back plate i and the said back plate at the same time compressed so as thereby to
attach by a clinching operation the button to the fabric, as represented in Figure 21,
which represents an attached button after the presser has operated and has been
lifted into the normal position represented in Figure 19.
My improved stiletto may be mounted in presses of various kinds or in pliers.
Figure 23 represents my improved stiletto mounted in pliers and Figure 24
represents a portion of the same drawn to a larger scale. The stiletto mounted in
the pliers, Figures 23 and 24, is notched or necked at s to prevent the fabric
slipping off it while the button is being adjusted for clinching as will be understood
by an examination of the enlarged view Figure 24. The button is attached to the
fabric by the use of the pliers in the same manner as described with respect to a
press and the parts of the stiletto are marked with the same letters of reference.
In attaching shell buttons to fabrics by means of eyelets, I modify the stiletto or
piercing and fixing tool used in the clinching process in the manner shown in
elevation in the press Figure 25 and the stiletto and parts drawn to a larger

page_text: scale, before the clinching operation, in Figure 26 and after the clinching operation
in Figure 27; Figure 28 represents an elevation of the stiletto detached and
Figure 29 represents the attached button removed from the press.
The press represented has a vertical plunger for putting on the pressure, but the
modified stiletto may be mounted in presses of other kinds and in pliers.
In this modification, the stiletto m is made longer than that first described and
the shoulder is situated a considerable distance above the base or lower shoulder of
the stiletto. In the drawing the lengthened shoulder is marked t and its concave
curve is marked t. When this modified stiletto is used the shell button u takes
the position of the hollow disc back plate i Figures 20 and 21 and the end of the
eyelet (shown detached in Figure 26) is clinched within the collar v³ of the tubular
shank of the button. The point of this stiletto and that first described may have
a spear point or a chisel point. In Figure 28 I have represented the modified
stiletto with a chisel point.
In affixing the shell button u to the fabrica, the shell button is placed on the
stiletto m in the position represented in Figure 26, the collar of the hollow
shank of the button being situated a little above the concave curve t2 of the
prolonged shoulder t the said collar v² being supported in that position by the face
of the button resting on the lower shoulder of the tool. The fabric being
passed onto the stiletto and above it the eyelet fastener v, the plunger y of the press,
Figure 25, is made to descend and force the eyelet fastening through the fabric
and cause its end to be clinched within the collar v of the tubular shank v³ of the
button as represented in Figure 27, the fabric a being gripped between the top of
the eyelet fastening and the collar of the tubular shank v. The button is thus
attached to the fabric. On removing the plunger y from the stiletto m the button
which has been attached to the fabric in an inverted position may be lifted from
the stiletto as represented in Figure 29.
Figure 30 represents in section a clip or strip metal fastening constructed
according to my invention for attaching buttons to fabrics the strip being bent
around or doubled on the edge of the fabric to which the button is to be attached
and Figure 31 represents the clip or strip metal fastening before the strip is bent
or doubled and its ends connected together.
In this improved clip fastening I make at one end of the strip by the raising
process a hollow disc back plate of the kind herein before described and illustrated
in Figures 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14 and 15 but modified as shown at i Figure 31 and I
make at the other end of the strip by the raising process, and on its upper side, a
washer a of the kind represented in Figure 5 and attach it to the collare of the
tubular stem of the button in the manner hereinbefore described and illustrated in
Figures 4 and 6. The clip thus made with the button connected to it is represented
in Figure 31 the washer a at one end of the strip and the hollow disc back plate i
at the other end being made in one piece with the strip and the washer a attached to
the stem of the button as described; but the hollow back plate i may be made in
halves, one half being made from the strip and a separate half or shell connected
to it. In fastening the button carried by the clip or strip, to the fabric, the
stem d of the button is passed through a hole in the fabric at the place where the
button is to be attached, and the strip is doubled or folded around the edge of
the fabric so as to bring the hollow back plate i on the underside of the fabric and
cause the said back plate to pass onto the protruding end of the button stem d.
By a clinching operation the open end of the stem is expanded within the hollow
back plate and the said back plate flattened or compressed and the button thereby
attached to the fabric as represented in Figure 30.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my inven-
tion and the manner in which the same is to be performed I declare that I claim as
my invention of "Improvements in attaching buttons to garments, bags and other
articles and in tools for that purpose" ;-
First. The addition to or combination with the collar of the hollow stem of a

page_text: button, of a rigidly attached washer for the purpose and substantially as herein-
before described and illustrated in Figures 1, 3, 4, 5 and 6 of the accompanying
drawings; that is to say, raising a short tube around the hole in the washer,
placing the mouth of the tubular part of the washer in an annular space between
the collar portions of the stem and by pressure expanding and flattening the said
collar portions and fixing the washer rigidly between them substantially as described
and illustrated.
Secondly. The new or improved hollow washer or backplate, made in one or two
pieces, to receive and cover the expanded end of the hollow button stem in
attaching the button to the fabric or article by a clinching operation herein before
described and illustrated in Figures 7, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16 and 17 of the
accompanying drawings, the said hollow washer or backplate consisting essentially
of a hollow shell having a central perforation the space between the front and back
parts of the shell receiving the end of the hollow button stem which end of the
stem by pressure is expanded and clinched between the said front and back of the
hollow shell substantially as described and illustrated.
Thirdly. The new or improved clip or metal strip button fastening herein before
described and illustrated in Figures 30 and 31 of the accompanying drawings, the
connecting strip of the fastening having raised at one end a hollow back plate and
at the other end a washer which is rigidly connected to the button stem, whether
the hollow back plate be made in one piece with the connecting strip or partly
from the connecting strip and partly of a separate shell substantially as described
and illustrated.
Fourthly. The improvements in the piercing and fixing tools or stilettos
employed in attaching buttons to fabrics and other articles hereinbefore described
and illustrated in Figures 19 to 28 both inclusive of the accompanying drawings,
that is to say, the addition to or combination with tools or stilettos employed for
expanding and clinching the end of the hollow stem of a button or the flanged
tube or eyelet fastening of a button, of a shoulder situated near or above the
lower shoulder that constitutes the base of the piercing or stiletto part of the tool,
the first named shoulder being so formed as to pass within a hollow back plate, or
within a hollow collar on the tubular shank of the button and expand the end of
the hollow stem of the button between the two faces of a hollow backplate, or
the end of the eyelet fastening within a hollow collar on the tubular shank of the
button, the backplate or the hollow button being supported during the clinching
operation by the lower shoulder that constitutes the base of the tool substantially
as described and illustrated.
Lastly. The addition to piercing and fixing tools or stilettos used in attaching
buttons to fabrics of a notch or neck at a short distance from the point for pre-
venting the fabric slipping off the tool after being pierced as hereinbefore described
and illustrated in Figures 23 and 24 of the accompanying drawings.
Dated the Twenty-second day of July 1893.