Year: 1897

page_text: I, AUGUST MATItsch, of VŢ Millergasse No. 52, Vienna, Austria, Gentleman,
do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to a machine for making pillow lace from the bobbin-
threads alone, without the aid of warp-threads. In this machine the place of the
needles, the pillow, and the pattern necessary in making pillow-lace by hand is
entirely taken by suitable mechanism, and the finished work can be taken off
and wound up at any desired times, so that all requirements for the production
of genuine pillow-lace are satisfied.
It is consequently possible with this machine, as distinguished from known
machines for making pillow-lace-
(1) To place any desired bobbin-threads out of operation. for as long, and as
offen, as desired, so that during this time they cannot share in any way in the
production of the crossings, twists, braidings, and weavings (hereinafter generally
termed twists for the sake of shortness) that form the lace;
(2) To twist any desired bobbin-threads together and consequently to make the
lace with them alone, without the aid of warp-threads;
(3) To arrange the twists in order in any desired sequence;
(4) To employ each thread in exactly the same manner as in making pillow-
lace by hand, and to pass it gradually from one edge of the lace to the other,
if this is required by the construction of the lace, whereby it is possible to produce
indivisible grounds;
(5) To hold the finished twists at any desired point for any desired length of
time
and
(6) To wind-up the finished lace at will and, as is most desirable, usually only
after the completion of an entire pattern.
A pillow-lace machine that fulfils all these requirements in a perfect manner,
is represented in side elevation in Fig. 1 of the accompanying drawings.
Figs. 2, 3, and 4 serve to illustrate the method of working of the machine.
Figs. 5 to 9 inclusive represent details of the machine.
In this machine the bobbin-threads which alone are employed to form the lace,
are mounted in carriages which are moved in combs by means of long toothed,
wheels (hereinafter referred to as rollers) in a manner similar to that employed
in the so-called roller-machines.
As shown in Fig. 1, there are employed for receiving and guiding the
carriages A and A³, three combs-a front comb C¹, a middle comb C3, and a
back comb C-which are arranged in the same arc of a circle in such a manner
that a vertical line drawn from the centre m of the said circle will fall into
the centre of the vacant space between the front and middle combs.
In this intermediate space and immediately under the combs C and C there
are arranged the thick-thread or warp bars B with their bearings, which are
not essential to the machine but are of advantage for certain purposes, namely

page_text: for guiding the lacing-threads that connect together the several strips of lace,
the threads that serve for holding the purls, especially in making guipure lace,
and the pattern or thick-threads that form the outline of the figures.
The front comb C is adapted to be rotated outwardly about its centre m (as
in Levers machines) and thus facilitates the drawing of the threads into the
thick-thread bars. The middle comb C2 is capable of being moved horizontally
lengthwise so as to shift the carriages contained therein to the right or to the
left hand. This is effected in the same manner as in bobbin-net machines by
means of laterally arranged levers and cams. The back comb C is situated
directly behind the middle comb without touching the same and is fixed.
Under each of the combs C1 and C2 there is arranged as in roller-machines, a
toothed roller R' or R2. These rollers engage in toothed arcs on the carriages A¹
and A2, and thereby move these in the comb-slots from one comb into the other.
As the corresponding slots in all three combs are situated respectively in the
same vertical plane, the carriages can be moved through all the three combs.
The carriages A' and A2 differ from those employed in roller-machines in that
their side edges are prolonged to the point of intersection. The points thus
formed, where the bobbin-threads pass out to form the twists, are situated directly
under the centre m of the circle.
By means of pickers such as are employed in machines for making bobbin-net
in strips all the carriages, which are shifted by the pickers, can be simultaneously
arrested.
The pickers are actuated by means of Jacquards, and as the former are arranged
independently of one another any dosired carriages can be held back, in accordance
with the pattern of the Jacquard cards, as often and as long as desired.
On the release of the carriages, they pass into the third or middle comb arranged
between the two outside combs, and the longitudinal movement of the said third
comb causes the lateral movement of the bobbin-threads according to the con-
struction of the ground of the lace.
After the completion of the twists formed by the action of the carriages, the
said twists are held by means of needles until new twists are added thereto, where-
upon the needles are withdrawn from the first mentioned twists which are no
longer subject to alteration of their form and position relative to one another.
The movements of the needles, which are independent of one another, are also
caused by means of Jacquards, so that any desired movement and position can
be given to the needles according to the pattern-card. On the completion of a
figure the lace is wound upon the lace-beam also by the action of a Jacquard,
so that it can be effected at any desired times and to any desired extent.
For each comb-slot there are provided three pickers P1, and 12 and P3 which
are guided with their upper free ends in the comb-slots of C1, C2, and C³ respec-
tively. They are mounted loosely on fixed axles d' and 2 and 3 so that each
picker can be rotated separately and independently of the others.
In this respect the pickers of this machine differ from those of ordinary bobbin-
net machines, in which the pickers are fixed to the two axles and are all turned up
together when the latter are rotated.
Two longitudinal bars M¹ M³, which can be moved from and towards the
pickers PP by means of levers and cams, move backwards when the rollers R¹R2
are turned outwardly. In consequence of this the pickers P1 P2 also turn upwards
and engage with the toothed ares of the carriages. After the exit of the said
arcs from the roller teeth, the carriages are pushed still slightly further outward
by the pickers, so that the said carriages come out of contact with the rollers,
and consequently cannot be carried along by the rollers when the latter then
rotate inwardly.
Before the commencement of the working of the machine cach carriage is
situated in each comb-slot of the front and back combs in front of, or behind,
the teeth of the toothed roller R', or R2 and is held by a picker P or P³, which
is turned up by the bar M or M

page_text: The pickers P3 are shaped at their upper ends differently from the pickers P
and P They are in fact, formed as toothed arcs whose teeth fit in the tooth-
spaces of the carriages. The axle 2, which carries the pickers P2, is connected
to the comb-bar of the middle comb C; and is therefore moved laterally with
the latter.
The axles d and d³ of the pickers-P and Pare connected to the standards of
the machine and are stationary.
By means of the pickers PI of the front comb C¹, the carriages held by the
same are moved out of contact with the roller R', so that they cannot be rotated
backwards by the latter."
The pickers 12 of the middle comb serve first to move the carriages out of
contact with the roller R2 so that they cannot be rotated forwards by the latter,
and, secondly, to push the carriages backwards to such an extent that they can
be engaged by the teeth of the picker P³.
By the picker P³ the carriages are pushed wholly into the back comb Cheld
there, and again moved forwards at any desired times so that they can be engaged
by the pickers P2 and be moved back into the middle comb.
It should be noted that the pickers P1 and 12 move the carriages they have
kept back, back again at the desired times to the roller R' or R2, so that they
are engaged by the teeth of the latter and can be rotated backwards or forwards,
as the case may be.
The pickers P1, P2, and P3 are each connected to a Jacquard situated behind
the machine. The Jacquards are similar to those which are employed in the
English curtain-machines and which are known by the name of Manchester
Jacquards.
The connexion of the pickers P¹ with the wires of the corresponding Jacquard
must be carried back below the combs and must cross the threads running from
the beams to the thick-thread bars. In order to enable these threads to be con-
veniently passed through, there are jointed to the pickers Pat g', thin elastic
steel strips or bars, similar to those which are used for making the thick-
thread bars in Levers machines. Each of these steel bars is connected behind
the combs with a thin steel bar or slide B₁ which is capable of moving in a forked
guide E in a horizontal direction from and towards the combs and also of rotating
about the joint gl up and down in a vertical plane.
Since the pickers 12 and 13 are situated behind the thick-thread bars, there is
no necessity in their case for the use of thin elastic steel bars, and therefore the
pickers have directly jointed to them at g² g, thin steel slides B2 B", guided
by E2 & E
1'
The slides B 132 133 have noses N¹ №2 N³ and N₁₁, N³₁, N3, which project up-
wards and downwards respectively. The slides are further each connected at their
rear ends by means of cords $ $ $ to a wire of their respective Jacquard.
Under each of the slides B1 B2 B33 there are arranged two longitudinal bars M',
M² M, and M, M2, M3, which are capable of being moved in a liorizontal
plane from and towards the combs by means of levers and cams.
11-
When the longitudinal bar M, M₁, or M³, moves backwards, it comes into
contact with the nose N1, N2, or N3, of all the slides 'B' 132 or 133 which have
not been rotated upwards by the corresponding Jacquard, and it pushes the said
slides back, and consequently also the pickers 1", P3, or P3 connected thereto,
in consequence of which the carriages held by P₁ are moved away to the front
by the roller R¹, or the carriages held by the picker 12 or P³ are moved back in
the middle comb or into the rear comb. By means of the longitudinal bars M₁₂,
M², M³, the rearwardly moved slide 131, B2, B3 and the pickers and carriages
connected thereto, are moved in the reverse direction. Above the slides B, B2
or B3, there is situated a fixed longitudinal bar M', M, or M. The noses N
N2 N3 of the slides B1 B2 B3 (which have been raised by the Jacquards) slide
against these and are prevented by them from moving forward. In front of
the pickers P there are situated two longitudinal bars m³ and M. Towards the
2:

page_text: (4) The roller R₁ rotates backwards, the pickers P¹ rotate completely down-
.wards and backwards and come out of the toothed arcs of the carriages.
(5) The roller R2 rotates backwards, engages with the carriages brought to it.
by the front roller R¹ and draws them into the middle comb.
(6) The bars M2, M²₁, M³, move backwards, and the pickers P2 of the middle
comb rotate upwards and backwards and engage in the toothed arcs of the
carriages.
(7) The carriages are at the rear in the middle comb out of contact with the
roller Rº.
(8) The middle comb moves with the carriage situate in it over two comb-
slots towards the right.
(9) Jacq. P2 comes into operation and raises the slides with the carriage that
has come out of the front comb so that they are held fast by bar M².
(10) The rollers R¹ and R2 rotate forwards, the bars M², M², and M², are moved
forwards, the slides B2 that are not raised by the Jacq. P2 are pushed forwards
and thereby the pickers connected therewith are moved downwards forwardly.
(11) The carriages have passed into the front comb; the bar M¹ moves back-
wards M, and M₁₂ move forwards, and Jacq. P¹ is disengaged.
(12) The carriages are quite in front out of contact with the rollers, the Jacq. Pi
comes again into operation, the slides B raised by it are held back by the
bar M, in consequence of which only those carriages that are not to cross in
this operation are held away from the roller R¹.
2
(13) The bar M¹ returns backwards, the bars M¹ and M¹ move forwards and
now bring, in consequence of this and of the action of the springs F1, the car-
riages that have hitherto been held back in the front comb and have to take
part in the formation of the crossing, into contact with the roller R'.
(14) These carriages are now moved forwards in the middle comb in the manner
described under the heads 3 to 6.
(15) The Jacq. P2 comes out of operation, and the middle comb shifts the
carriages situated in it, over one comb-slot towards the left.
(16) The bars M², M2, and M2, with the slides B2 and pickers P³ return into
their original position; and the slides held by the latter are brought into contact
with the rollers R2. These, as well as the roller R2, rotate forwards and bring
the crossed carriages back again into the front comb.
2
(17) The Jacq. P¹ comes out of operation, the bars M₁, and M₁₂ move forwards
and the latter brings, in consequence of its action and of the pressure exerted
by the springs F¹ upon the slides B¹ and the pickers P¹, the uncrossed carriages
into one row with the crossed ones.
2
(18) The bars M, M₁₁, and M¹ return into their original position and opera-
tion I is finished.
OPERATION II.
Crossing any desired Pairs of carriages of the Back Row.
The carriages are held fast in the back comb by the bar M³₁. Of the carriages
to be crossed, one in each case is to be brought into the middle comb, but the
other is preliminarily, together with the carriages that are not to be crossed, to
be held fast in the back comb.
(1) The Jacq. 13 comes into operation. The slides B3 of the carriages to be
held fast in the back comb are raised and held fast by the bar M³ The bars M²,
M², and M are pushed backwards again.
(2) The slides B³ not held by the bar M³, are pushed forwards by the bar M³.
The bar M3, of course, also moves forwards.
(3) The forwardly rotated pickers P³ strike against the pickers P2 and rotate
these upward. The latter engage in the toothed arcs of the carriages and the
pickers P3 then come, during the downward rotation, out of the teeth of the
ariages. The bars M, and M22 move forwards and the carriages moved for-
wards by the pickers P2 are thereby brought into the middle comb. There they

page_text: are stopped at their engagement with the roller R2 by the bar M2, which is still
in its rearward position.
(1) The middle comb shifts the carriages over two comb-slots towards the left.
(5) The Jacq. P comes into operation, in consequence of which all the slides B³
are raised whose pickers 12 hold carriages.
(6) The bars M, and M², and also M³, and M³, return into their rearward
position and the Jacq. 13 comes out of operation, the slides held by it falling.
(7) The Jacq. 13 comes into operation anew and now the slides belonging to
the carriages that are not to be crossed are raised and held fast by the bar M
2.
(8) The carriages that have hitherto been held back in the back comb and
which have to cross one another, are brought forwards into the middle comb in the
manner described under the heads 2 and 3.
(3) The middle comb shifts the carriages over one comb-slot towards the right
and Jacq. P2 comes out of operation, the slides B2 raised by it falling.
(10) The bars M₁₁, M², M³, and M³ go backwards and the crossed carriages
of the back row are thereby moved into the back comb.
(11) Jacq. 13 passes out of operation, the whole of the carriages of the back
row are now again in like positions and Operation II is completed.
OPERATION III.
Crossing any desired carriages of the Front Row with the Carriages of the
Back Row that are Opposite to them in the same comb-slots.
(1) The Jacq. P¹ comes into operation and the carriges that are not held
fast thereby.e., the carriages that are to be crossed-are moved in a known
manner into the middle comb and are there shifted towards the right to the
extent of a comb slot. (At the beginning of the operation the bars M2, M3, and
M², and also their slides B3 and pickers P2 have been shifted into their forward
position).
2
(2) The Jacq. P2 comes into operation and raises the slides B of those pickers
that have come out of the front comb; the bars M2, and M¹ move backwards.
Jacq. P3 has likewise come into operation and the slides 13 of those carriages
are raised that have not to cross.
(3) The carriages of the back row that have to be crossed are moved forward
without stoppage into the middle comb and into the front comb.
(4) The Jacq. P¹ comes out of operation, the bars, M, and M, move forwards
and the latter brings, as a result of its pressure and that of the springs F, the
uncrossed carriages into a row with the crossed ones of the back row, which con-
sequently now become carriages of the front row.
After the carriages coming from the back comb are carried forwards over the
pickers 1, the Jacq. 12 comes out of operation, the middle comb shifts to the
extent of a comb-slot towards the left and the bars M2, and M2 move backwards 4
again, whereupon the carriages held by the Jacq. P2 are brought in a known
manner into the back comb.
(5) The Jacq. P3 comes out of operation and the carriages held by it come
into a row with the crossed carriages of the front comb which now become
carriages of the back row.
(6) The bars M', M, M, and also M2, and M², are brought back into the
position they had at the commencement of operation I, and Operation III is now
completed.
As
4
The Jacquards brought into connexion with the pickers, P1 and P2, respectively;
come into operation after each engagement of the pickers into the teeth of the 5
carriages. The carriages held. back in the middle comb are shifted in accord-
ance with the construction of the lace-ground by the laterally applied cams.
every picker independently of the others holds the corresponding carriage back
in the combs and every picker can be operated in any desired manner by the
Jacquard it follows that any desired carriages can be held back in the two outer 5
combs as often as desired and as long as desired. Since, however, in order to

page_text: produce a twist, it is necessary to transfer the corresponding carriages from one
comb into the other, no twist can be formed by the corresponding bobbin threads
whilst the carriages are so held back.
It is clear from this that any desired bobbin-threads can be kept out of opera-
tion or be crossed as often or as long as desired. The arranging of the twists
in order can, however, take place in any desired sequence, as illustrated by Fig. 2
of the drawings, which represents a strip of lace produced by machine and having
longitudinal edges a a and b b.
Whereas, in fact, in the machines hitherto known, all twists falling in the
same horizontal transverse line, e.g. 1-1, are produced simultaneously, because
all the carriages are simultaneously operative and therefore work in rows, this
simultaneous production of the twists in the same horizontal line is in no way
necessary in the present machine; nor is it any more necessary that one twist-
row be completed before another row can be begun. Moreover, as in hand pillow-
lace making, all twists falling in the diagonal 2-2 can be produced, one after
another afterwards those of the diagonal 3-31, and so on. Furthermore, it is
not necessary to keep to a definite direction, so that, for example, first all the
twists of the space I can be completed, then those of the space II, then those of the
space III, and so on.
In connexion with this, moreover, there is obtained over the making of pillow-lace
by hand, the advantage that instead of one strip several such are prepared simul-
taneously and in each of these strips several twists can be made at once. (The
hand can, of course, at once hold and move only a single bobbin).
If the kind of the lace to be produced renders it necessary, each thread can,
just as in making pillow-lace by hand, be employed in exactly the same way and
be carried gradually from one edge of the lace to the other, as shown in Fig. 3,
which represents a "turchon" ground, the production of which cannot be effected
with any of the known lace-machines.
The carriages may be caused to enter the middle comb, and the latter be shifted
in any desired order or manner according to the lace-ground to be produced.
The machine can, thus be so arranged:
(1) That any desired bobbin-threads of each or either row will cross one another
separately. and it may be, any desired carriages will pass on in the same comb
from right to left or vice versa according to the shifting of the middle comb;
(2) That simultaneously any desired bobbin-threads of the front row will cross
with any desired bobbin-threads of the back row and any desired carriages pass
from the front row into the back row and vice versa.
Therefore, any desired bobbin-threads whatever can cross with one another and be
shifted in the comb-slots at any desired times and in any desired direction, so that by
means of this machine all lace-grounds and laces can be made that are produced
by hand.
Besides the correct production of the twists, it is necessary for the beautiful
appearance of the lace also that the twists be brought into the correct position.
in relation to one another and be held fast therein until they are prevented from
changing form and position in the pattern by the making of new twists and the
placing thereof in succession to the former.
For this purpose there are employed needles n', which are equal in number
to the comb-slots and which are separated from one another by guides E and
are capable of being moved independently in vertical planes forwards and back-.
wards and up and down. These needles can be moved laterally only in union
with their guides and by moving the latter, so that, therefore, the needles are
compelled to insert always at the same place above the carriages.
Two Jacquards serve for moving the needles:--
By means of the one (a fine-bar Jacquard) the needles that hold the twists are
drawn back so that they come out of contact with the threads; the second Jacqua »d,
which serves to lift-the needles, has to produce, a varying height of lift, because

page_text: the same needle must lift the twists to a varying height according as this is
necessitated by the joining to twists that are already held tight.
The height of lift can be varied as desired at any desired times. Consequently
after the completion of a twist, the latter can be lifted to any desired height in
a vertical direction by means of the needle which is inserted under it and im-
mediately above the carriages forming it.
When the needles have been completely pushed forwards, so that their points
project forwards beyond the bobbin-threads, then the needles are suitably lifted
and each needle remains fixed in the position into which it is raised, until it is
drawn back by the fine-bar Jacquard. Their upward shifting is produced, like
the drawing-back, by means of the pattern-card of the corresponding Jacquard,
and therefore the movement and position of the needles can be determined at
will, in contradistinction to the known lace-machines, in which one of the two
needle-bars remains inserted only until the next row of twists has been formed
and the needles of the second needle-bar begin to lift this newly formed row of
twists.
Thus, whereas in all such machines, twisting can only be done in rows at a
time, and each row of twists thereby produced is lifted by the needles immediately
after completion, all the twists being, in consequence of the equal lift or stroke
of both needle-bars, lifted to the same extent and held fast for the same length
of time the manner of operation in completing the lace in the present machine
is as follows when, as shown in Fig. 4, all the twists a, b, c, d falling one after
another into the diagonal 1-1 are made, and then in the same manner the
twists a, b, c, o falling into the diagonal 2-2:-
First the needle belonging to the twist a is inserted under the latter, lifts it
into the position (a) shown, and holds it fast in that position. After the for-
mation of the twist b the corresponding needle is inserted, lifts it into the posi-
tion (b), and holds it there. When the following twist a is to be added under-
neath the twist a, the needle that holds the twist a is withdrawn, and is at once
moved to pass under the newly formed twist a°; and the latter is then lifted.
until it assumes the position (aº).
When the needle is drawn away from the twist a, the latter is already held
by the adjacent finished twists and can therefore no longer come out of its place.
Fig. 1 shows the needles with their mechanism in their highest position,
inserted into the lace; at 2 they are represented as in their lowest position and
withdrawn from the lace.
It has already been stated that the needles move in guides E°. These consist of
this steel blades and are like a large comb, in whose slots the needles can be pushed
up and down, and forwards and backwards.
The needles are soldered in thin bars 6ª, which are jointed at G2 to bars 63,
which are carried in E and can move from and towards the carriages horizon-
tally. At G³ are jointed to the bars 3 slides 13 which are like those employed
for the pickers and which are connected by cords S4 with a Jacquard.
If any desired slides B are at any desired moment not raised by the Jacquard,
they, and, of course, thereby the needles connected with them, are drawn, back-
wards by a longitudinal bar M₁, situated under them, in its backward movement,
and the needles are consequently drawn out of the twists held by them. By
the forward movement of the bar M, following hereupon, the needles are brought
forward again between the slide-springs. The needles are drawn out of the lace
only when a new twist is to be put into order below a twist held by the needle.
After it has been drawn out the needle therefore immediately passes in again
between the slide springs and suitably raises the newly formed twists.
For raising the needles there are jointed to the bars 63 at G vertical bars b.
These are toothed on their upper and rearwardly projecting edges. They have
each a vertical longitudinal slot s and are connected with the axle d*, which is
horizontal and is mounted stationarily and in the longitudinal direction of the
machine, by the passage of this axle through the said slots. The bars 6 can

page_text: e
consequently be moved upwards and downwards and be rotated forwards and
backwards on this axle. The arrangement is such that the two pawls K' and K²
engage in the teeth of the bar b as soon as the needles n¹ are pushed forwards
between the slide-springs. As soon as the needles n¹ (caused by the fine-bar
Jacquard) are drawn out of the twists, the corresponding bars 6 are rotated about
the axle d; their parts located above the axle must consequently turn forwards
and their teeth thereby come out of contact with the pawls K and K2 and,
liberated from there, descend; in consequence of this the bars 62 rotate about the
joint G2 downwards and as a result the needles connected with the bars 2 come
into their lowest position. The pawls K¹ are stationarily mounted but the
pawls K2 are carried by the bars 5. Of the latter the machine contains as many
as there are needles. These bars 65 can be moved vertically upwards and down-
wards in guides E5 and E; their downward movement is limited by a projection
which strikes against the guide E6. On each of these bars six small catches are
arranged over one another. These catches, which are each rotatable about a
bolt 1 (Fig. 5), carry at their upper forward end springs F2, which bear against
small pins fastened near to the front edge of the corresponding bar 65, and
thereby press the pawls forwards so that they do not project with their lower
ends beyond the rear edges of the bars 65. At each catch is connected by means
of a cord s, s2, or s with a Jacquard. These catches are prevented by pins v¹,
to which are fastened to the bars 65 and project into small slots in the pawls,
from rotating forwards beyond a certain extent in consequence of the stress of
the springs F. If one of the cords ss is pulled, the corresponding catch must
rotate backwards and thereby bring its lower end over the rear edge of the bar 5.
As soon as the pull of the wire-cord connected therewith ceases, the catch in
question is immediately rotated forwards by its spring F2, so that the rearwardly
projecting part again stands in front of the rear edge of the bar . Below each
horizontal row of catches there is immediately behind the bars a horizontal
longitudinal bar g¹ g² or 96. When these are raised they strike against those
catches that are at this moment drawn backwards by the Jacquards, whereby the
bars connected to these catches are raised. This upward movement is trans-
ferred to the bars by the pawls K2, which are connected with the bars 65 and
engage in the teeth of the bars 6, and in consequence of this the corresponding
needles are raised.
As soon as the bars q¹ 7 descend, the bars 65 and the pawls K², which
are connected therewith and by means of which the bars 6 are 1ised, do so also.
If, now, however, the needles n¹ are to remain for any desired length of time at the
For this
height attained, the bars 6' must be prevented from following the bars 65.
purpose serve the stationary pawls K', which hold the needles only until the
fine-bar Jacquard rotates the upper ends of the bars 6 outwards and thereby
removes them from the stationary pawls K'.
füi
In
The bars
are at their two ends provided with guides f¹
(Fig. 6). With these they are pushed along stationary and vertical bars 66.
consequence of this the bars q¹ g can be moved only vertically. On dach
guide piece f¹. f there is provided a horizontal pin 2, 3 or 26. These pins
pass into slots on the ends of corresponding arms of two-armed levers H',
H2.
H, which are pivoted at I, II. VI and whose other arms are
each provided with a lever od 1, 2, or 4. The lower ends of which are jointed
by pins to a two-armed lever H7 (Figs. 7 and 8). The other arm of the lever H7
carries a roller which is pressed by a helical spring against a
provided with suitable projections, so that the rotating cam S effects the oscilla-
tion of the lever H. The lever-rods hi
are connected with the lever H7
at different distances from its point of rotation VII, and are consequently raised
to different extents by its oscillation, as also, therefore, are all the bars etc., con-
nected with and raised by these lever-rods.
The lever-rods ¹
cam S
16 are so connected with the lever H7 that the rod h¹

page_text: ,
produces a rise of one unit (e.g. 1 millimetre), the rod one of two-units, h³ one
of three units h one of four units, 5 one of six units, and he one of eight units.
The raising of the bars q' q is effected by two strokes, which are made
in as quick succession as possible after each needle insertion, and the lever H
lifts at the second stroke twice as high as at the first and consequently to the
extent of 2, 4, 6, 8, 12 or 16. units. Before each stroke the Jacquard connected
with the catches ¹
. comes into operation. As these two strokes have
to be made in as quick succession as possible, there is employed for this purpose
a so-called double-action Jacquard, such as are used in the English curtain-
machine for producing combination goods. The needles are consequently brought
to their place.not with a jerk but by two upward movements in quick succession.
By this means it is possible to raise the needles as desired to an extent varying
from one unit up to twenty units. In order, for example, to lift a needle to the
extent of eleven units, at the first stroke the pawl belonging to the bar q³ is drawn
back by the Jacquard and at the second stroke that of the bar . At the first
movement the needle is thereby raised to the extent of three units, at the second,
as in this movement each stroke is double as high as in the first, it is raised to
the extent of eight-i.c. to the extent of eleven units altogether.
In order that the size of the lift-unit may be altered in accordance with the
quality of the goods (e.g. from 1 to 2 millimetres), the arm of the lever H7 con-
nected with the rods h¹
6 consists of two parts aand 6*, which are connected
by screws. The part a, which is connected with the lever-rods h¹. ho has
a longitudinal slot. If the screws that connect the two parts of the lever-arm
are eased, the part can be moved from or towards the pivot VII, and conse-
quently the joints of the levers h¹. h, and thereby their lengths of stroke,
be made greater or less according to the requirement of the pattern.
From what has been said it will be seen that it is not only possible to bring
the needles into twenty different positions as regards height, but that the unit
of the movement can be made greater or smaller as desired.
The described needle-mechanism consequently brings the twists exactly to
the place required by the pattern, and therefore takes the place of the lace
pattern or card; it takes the place also of the needles and the cushion of the
lace-maker, because the twists are held fast at the places corresponding to the
pattern until by the bringing into position of further twists every possibility is
removed of disturbing the form and position of the finished 'twists.
Whereas in lace-making machines of the kind heretofore employed working a
row at a time, each row of twists is lifted at once and to the same height each
time, so that the finished goods must be wound upon the lace-beam at once and
uniformly, this is effected in this machine usually only and in the most practical
manner after an entire pattern has been completed, this winding-up can however
take place at any other desired moment as far as allowed by the construction of
the pattern.
As shown in Fig. 1, the lace is passed over a guide bar L is then caught by
the pegs of a winding-up beam 0, and is then passed on to the lace-beam W,
which is driven by means of friction by the winding-up beam.
The latter has imparted to it, instead of a continuously progressive rotation,
a variable rotation which is determined in each case by the time necessary for
the completion of the pattern and by the amount of the winding-up of the lace
and which is produced by means of the Jacquard that causes the up-and-down
movement of the needles and of a special winding-up apparatus actuated by the
Jacquard just mentioned.
This winding-up apparatus is constructed in the following manner:
On the axle of the winding-up beam 0-there is loose a double lever I and
fast ratchet-wheel and a detent-wheel 2; the double lever is connected by a
pin
with a lever-rod I', which at each crossing of the carriages, is moved up-
wards and downwards by means of double-lever,. roller, and cam like the lever-
rods ¹
h. In order to enable the length of stroke, and consequently
3

page_text: also the length of the piece of lace to be wound up, to be made as large or as
small as desired in accordance with the requirement of the pattern, the pin IC
is capable of being shifted in a slot in the lever I.' The other arm of this lever
has likewise a pine! (see also Fig. 9), on which there is placed next to the pawly!
for the ratchet-wheel an arm 12, which is rigidly connected with this pawl and
carries at its other end a roller r This roller presses on a double lever I³,
which is pivoted at 2 and whose lower end is connected by a cord s with the
Jacquard that causes the needle-stroke.
When this cord is pulled, the upper end of the lever I³ rises and thereby also
causes the arm I³ to rise. When the cord 7 is liberated by the Jacquard, the
roller presses down the lever I³ and in consequence. of this the lever I² also
descends.
The pawl y engages in the teeth of the ratchet-wheel when the arm I is
not raised by the lever I³, which happens according to desire. through the pattern-
card of the Jacquard. If this pawl be in gear, it will, during the downward
movement of the lever-rod I', press upon the ratchet-wheel r and thereby rotate
the winding-up beam forwards about its axle and wind up the finished lace
hitherto held by the needles. The detent-wheel with the detent y serves, for
preventing the winding-up beam from rotating in the contrary direction.
The winding-up of the finished lace is therefore done only when the pawl y
provided for the winding-up mechanism is not raised by the pattern card of the
Jacquard and therefore can act on the ratchet-wheel; the size movdover, of the
piece of lace wound up depends upon the position of the pin, which is shifted in
the slot of the double lever I in accordance with the pattern-length for the time
being and is then screwed fast.
I, AUGUST MATITSCH, of VI, Millergasse No. 52, Vienna, Austria, Gentleman,
do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is
to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:
This invention relates to a inachine for making pillow lace from the bobbin-
threads alone, without the aid of warp-threads. In this machine the place of the
needles, the pillow, and the pattern necessary in making pillow-lace by hand is
entirely taken by suitable mechanism, and the finished work can be taken off
and wound up at any desired times, so that all requirements for the production
of genuine pillow-lace are satisfied.
It is consequently possible with this machine, as distinguished from known
machines for making pillow-lace:-
(1) To place any desired bobbin-threads out of operation for as long, and as
often, as desired, so that during this time they cannot share in any way in the
production of the crossings, twists, braidings, and weavings (hereinafter generally
termed twists for the sake of shortness) that form the lace:
(2) To twist any desired bobbin-threads together and consequently to make the
lace with them alone, without the aid of warp-threads;

page_text: (3) To arrange the twists in order in any desired sequence;
(4) To employ each thread in exactly the same manner as in making pillow-
lace by hand, and to pass it gradually from one edge of the face to the other,
if this is required by the construction of the lace, whereby it is possible to produce
indivisible grounds;
(5) To hold the finished twists at any desired point for any desired length of
time; and
(6) To wind-up the finished lace at will and, as is most desirable, usually only
after the completion of an entire pattern.
A pillow-lace machine that fulfils all these requirements in a perfect manner,
is represented in side elevation in Fig. 1 of the drawings, filed with my Provi-
sional Specification.
Figs. 2, 3, and 4 serve to illustrate the method of working of the machine.
Figs. 5 to 9 inclusive represent details of the machine.
In this machine the bobbin-threads which alone are employed to form the lace,
are mounted in carriages which are moved in combs by means of long toothed
wheels (hereinafter referred to as rollers) in a manner similar to that employed
in the so-called roller-machines.
As shown in Fig. 1, there are employed for receiving and guiding the
carriages A¹ and A2, three combs a front comb C¹, a middle comb C², and a
back comb C3 which are arranged in the same arc of a circle in such a manner
that a vertical line drawn from the centre m of the said circle will fall into
the centre of the vacant space between the front and middle combs.
In this intermediate space and immediately under the combs C¹ and C² there
are arranged the thick-thread or warp bars B with their bearings, which are
not essential to the machine but are of advantage for certain purposes, namely
for guiding the lacing-threads that connect together the several strips of lace,
the threads that serve for holding the purls, especially in making guipure lace,
and the pattern or thick-threads that form the outline of the figures.
The front comb C is adapted to be rotated outwardly about its centre m (as
in Levers machines) and thus facilitates the drawing of the threads into the
thick-thread bars. The middle comb C2 is capable of being moved horizontally
lengthwise so as to shift the carriages contained therein to the right or to the
left hand. This is effected in the same manner as in bobbin-net machines by
means of laterally arranged levers and cams. The back comb C is situated
directly behind the middle comb without touching the same and is fixed.
Under each of the combs C and C there is arranged as in roller-machines, a
toothed roller R¹ or R². These rollers engage in toothed arcs on the carriages A¹
and A2, and thereby move these in the comb-slots from one comb into the other.
As the corresponding slots in all three combs are situated respectively in the
same vertical plane, the carriages can be moved through all the three combs.
The carriages A1 and A2 differ from those employed in roller-machines in that
their side edges are prolonged to the point of intersection. The points thus
formed, where the bobbin-threads pass out to form the twists, are situated directly
under the centre m of the circle.
By means of pickers such as are employed in machines for making bobbin-net
in strips all the carriages, which are shifted by the pickers, can be simultaneously
arrested.
The pickers are actuated by means of Jacquards, and as the former are arranged
independently of one another any desired carriages can be held back, in accordance
with the pattern of the Jacquard cards, as often and as long as desired.
On the release of the carriages, they pass into the third or middle comb arranged
between the two outside combs, and the longitudinal movement of the said third
comb causes the lateral movement of the bobbin-threads according to the con-
struction of the ground of the lace.
After the completion of the twists formed by the action of the carriages, the
said twists are held by means of needles until new twists are added thereto, where-

page_text: upon the needles are withdrawn from the first mentioned twists which are no
longer subject to alteration of their form and position relative to one another.
The movements of the needles, which are independent of one another, are also
caused by means of Jacquards, so that any desired movement and position can
be given to the needles according to the pattern cards. On the completion of a
figure the lace is wound upon the lace-beam also by the action of a Jacquard,
so that it can be effected at any desired times and to any desired extent.
For each comb-slot there are provided three pickers P1, P2 and P3 which
are guided with their upper free ends in the comb-slots of C1, C2 and C³ respec-
tively. They are mounted loosely on fixed axles d'and and d³ so that each
picker can be rotated separately and independently of the others.
In this respect the pickers of this machine differ from those of ordinary bobbin-
net machines, in which the pickers are fixed to the axles and are all turned up
together when the latter are rotated.
Two longitudinal bars M' M2, which can be moved from and towards the
pickers by means of levers and cams, move backwards when the rollers R' R2
are turned outwardly. In consequence of this the pickers P P also turn upward
and engage with the toothed ares of the carriages. After the exit of the said
arcs from the roller teeth the carriages are pushed still slightly further outwards
by the pickers, so that the said carriages come out of contact with the rollers,
and consequently cannot be carried along by the rollers when the latter then
rotate inwardly.
Before the commencement of the working of the machine a carriage is
situated in each comb-slot of the front and back combs in front of, or behind,
the teeth of the toothed roller R', or R2 and is held by a picker P¹ or P³, which
is turned up by the bar M or M³.
The pickers P³ are shaped at their upper ends differently from the pickers Pl
and 12 They are in fact, formed as toothed arcs whose teeth fit in the tooth-
spaces of the carriages. The axle d2, which carries the pickers P2, is connected
to the comb-bar c2 of the middle comb C3, and is therefore moved laterally with
the latter.
The axles d' and
of the pickers P and P³ are connected to the standards of
the machine and are stationary.
By means of the pickers PI of the front comb C¹, the carriages held by the
same are moved out of contact with the roller R', so that they cannot be rotated
backwards by the latter.
The pickers P2 of the middle comb C³ serve first to move the carriages out of
contact with the roller R2 so that they cannot be rotated forwards by the latter,
and, secondly, to push the carriages backwards to such an extent that they can
be engaged by the teeth of the picker 13.
By the picker P³ the carriages are pushed wholly into the back comb C³, held
there, and again moved forwards at any desired times so that they can be engaged
by the pickers P and be moved back into the middle comb.
It should be noted that the pickers P and P2 move the carriages that they have
kept back, back again at the desired times to the roller R¹ or R2, so that they
are engaged by the teeth of the latter and can be rotated backwards or forwards,
as the case may be.
The set of pickers P1, P2, and P³ are each connected to a Jacquard situated behind
the machine. The Jacquards are similar to those which are employed in the
English curtain-machines and which are known by the name of Manchester
Jacquards.
The connexions of the pickers P¹ with the wires of the corresponding Jacquard
must be carried back below the combs and must cross the threads running from
the beams to the thick-thread bars. In order to enable these threads to be con-
veniently passed between, there are jointed to the pickers P1 at g', thin elastic
steel strips or bars b¹, similar to those which are used for making the thick-
thread bars in Levers machines. Each of these steel bars is connected behind

page_text: the combs with a thin steel bar or slide B' which is capable of moving in a forked
guide E in a horizontal direction from and towards the combs and also of rotating
about the joint gl up and down in a vertical plane.
Since the pickers P2 and P3 are situated behind the thick-thread bars, there is
no, necessity in their case for the use of thin elastic steel bars, and therefore the
pickers P2 and P3 have directly joined to them at and g³, thin steel slides 132
and B, guided by E and E³.
1
The slides B' 132 133 have noses N1 N2 N3 and N₁₁, N2, N3₁, which project upwards
and downwards respectively. Each of the slides is further connected at its rear
end by means of a cord S1, S2, or $3 to a wire of its Jacquard.
Under each of the slides B1 B2 B3 there are arranged two longitudinal
bars M, M, M²₁, M², or M³, M³, which are capable of being moved in a hori-
zontal plane from and towards the combs by means of levers and cams.
1'
When the longitudinal bar M₁₁, M²₁, or M³, moves backwards, it comes into
contact with the nose N1, N2₁, or N3, of all the slides B1, B2, or 13 that have not
heen rotated upwards by the corresponding Jacquard, and it pushes the said slides
back, and consequently also the pickers P', 12, or 13 connected thereto, in con-
sequence of which the carriages held by P are moved away to the front by the
roller R, or the carriages held by the pickers P or P3 are moved back in the
middle comb or into the rear comb. By means of the longitudinal
bars M, M², M³, the rearwardly moved slides B1, B2, B3, and the pickers and
carriages connected thereto, are moved in the reverse direction. Above the
slides B1, B2, or 33; there is situated a fixed longitudinal bar M, M or M
The noses N N N of the slides 13 B2B which have been raised by the Jacquards)
slide against these and are prevented by them from moving forward.
In front of the pickers P there are situated two longitudinal bars m and M.
Towards the former and stationary bar m' the Pickers P are pressed by springs F¹
attached to the upper ends of the latter. The bar M is capable of being moved
in a horizontal direction away from and towards the combs. When this bar M
is moved backwards, there is produced an upward rotation of the pickers P¹;
these latter enter with their upper ends into the toothed ares of the carriages and
push the carriages back and away from the roller R³. When they have arrived
When the bar M moves forward again, the pickers are also returned by the
action of the springs F1 into the position that they occupied before the operation
of the bar M¹ unless they have been prevented from so doing by the pattern-card
of the Jacquard, and they thus move the corresponding carriages again into
contact with the roller R. In front of the pickers P2 there is also a longitudinal
bar M by the rearward pushing of which the pickers P2 are rotated upwards,
in consequnece of which they engage in the toothed arcs of the carriages and
push the carriages back and away from the roller R. When they have arrived
in this position, the Jacquard corresponding to the pickers 12 enters into operation.
The slides B2 which have not been raised, and obviously also the pickers and
carriages corresponding thereto, are therefore then moved back by the longitudinal
bar M².
Each picker P2 that is moved by the bar M², now comes into contact with the
picker P3 situated in the same comb-slot, and rotates the said picker P³ upwards.
In this backward rotation, the pickers P2 are rotated back out of the toothed
ares of the cauriages. But before this is done, the hindmost teeth of the pickers P³
have already entered the toothed arcs of the carriages. The longitudinal bar M
pushes the slide backwards, whereby the carriages are moved into the back
comb.
For the sake of brevity, in the following description of the manner of working,
the bobbin-thrands of the carriages, will be called "carriages," and the Jacquards
belonging to the pickers I", P2, P3 will be called Jacq. Pl, Jacq. P³, Jacq. P³,
respectively.
OPERATION I.

page_text: . At starting, the position of the apparatus is as follows:—
All the Jacqs. are out of operation.
i
The carriages of the front kw are in the front comb in front of the roller R¹
and are out of contact therewith. The rollers R1 and R2 are rotated forwards,
that is to say, towards the workman.
On starting the longitudinal bar M¹ is first of all pushed back; consequently the
pickers P¹ of the front conib are rotated forwards and upwards. They are situated
in the tooth-spaces of the front carriages and keep the latter away from the
roller R. The longitudinal bars M, and M, and also the corresponding slides B
are forwardly situated. The bars M2, M1, M2, and also the corresponding
slides B2 are moved right up to the front, and the pickers P2 are there-
fore rotated downwards and forwards.
The bars M3, M³, are pushed back, and therefore also the slides 133, and the
latter are held by the bar M. The corresponding pickers P³ are turned up-
wards and backwards, and thus the carriages of the back row are firmly held
wholly in side the back comb.
During the working, the following takes place :-
(1) The bar M is pushed back.
(2) The bars M, M¹, move wholly backward.
(3) Jacq. P¹ comes into operation; the carriages: that do not cross, and one.
of each of the pairs that do cross are consequently held back, through the instru-
mentality of the bar M¹3, by the pickers whose slides B₁ have been raised.
(4) The bar M' moves forwards and the bars M₁₁ and M¹, also move forwards
in consequence of which and alsh, of the action of the springs F1, the pickers P
that are not held by the Jacq. P¹ push the corresponding carriages backwards
and bring them into contact with the roller R¹.
(5) The roller R¹ rotates backwards, the pickers P¹ rotate completely down-
wards and backwards and come out of the toothed arcs of the carriages.
(6) The roller R2 rotates backwards, engages with the carriages brought to it
by the front roller R' and draws them into the middle comb.
(7) The bars M², M2, M², move backwards, and the pickers P2 of the middle
comb rotate upwards and backwards and engage in the toothed arcs of the
carriages.
(8) The carriages are in the rear portion of the middle comb and out of contact
with the roller R³.
::(9) The middle comb moves with the carriage situate in it over two comb-
slots towards the right.
(10) Jaca. Pe comes into operation and raises the slide 12 of the carriages that
have come out of the front comb so that they are held fast by the bar M².
(11) The rollers R' and R2 rotate forwards, the bars Me, Me, and M², are moved
forwards, the slides B2 that are not raised by the Jacq. 12 are pushed forwards
and thereby the pickers connected therewith are moved downwards forwardly.
(12) The bar then moves backwards, M₁₁ and M¹, also move backwards,
and Jacq. P¹ is disengaged.
(13) The carriages are quite in front out of contact with the rollers, the Jacq. P
comes again into operation, the slides B₁ raised by it are held back by the
bar M', in consequence of which only those carriages that are not to cross in
this operation are held away from the roller R.
3
(14) The bar M' returns forwards, the bar M¹, and M₁₂ move forwards and
now bring, in consequence of this and of the action of the springs F, the car-
riages that have hitherto been held back in the front comb and have to take
part in the forntation of the crossing, into contact with the roller R¹.
(15) These carriages are now moved backwards into the middle comb in the
manner described under the heads 3 to 6.
(16) The Jacq. P2 comes out of operation, and the middle comb shifts the
carriages situated in it, over one comb-slot towards the left.
(17) The bars M², M³, and M², with the slides 12 and pickers P² return into

page_text: their original position; and the carriages held by the latter are brought into con-
tact with the roller R³: This, as well as the roller R', rotate forwards and brings
the crossed carriages back again into the front comb.
(18) The Jacq. P¹ comes out of operation. In consequence of this and of the
pressure exerted by the springs F upon the pickers Pi, the uncrossed carriages
come into one row with the crossed ones.
(19) The bars M', M₁₁, and M', have returned into their original position and
operation I is finished.
2
OPERATION II.
Crossing any desired Pairs of carriages of the Back Row.
The carriages are held fast in the back comb by the bar M³. Of the carriages
to be crossed, one in each case is to be brought into the middle comb, but the
other is preliminarily, together with the carriages that are not to be crossed, to
be held fast in the back comb.
(1) The Jacq. 13 comes into operation. The slides B³ of the carriages to be
held fast in the back comb are raised and held fast by the bar M³ The bars M²,
M², and M are pushed backwards again.
(2) The slides 133 not held by the bar M³, are pushed forwards by the bar M³₂.
The bar M³, of course, also moves forwards.
(3) The forwardly rotated pickers P3 strike against the pickers P2 and rotate
these forwards. The latter engage in the toothed arcs of the carriages and the
pickers P3 then come, during the downward rotation, out of the teeth of the
Carriages. The bars M, and M2 move forwards and the carriages moved for-
wards by the pickers 12 are thereby brought into the middle comb. There they
are stopped at their engagement with the roller R2 by the bar M2, which is still
in its rearward position.
(4) The middle comb shifts the carriages over two comb-slots towards the left.
(5) The Jacq. 12 comes into operation, in consequence of which all the slides B³
are raised whose pickers P2 hold carriages.
(6) The bars M², and M², and also M³, and M³, return into their rearward
position and the Jacq. P³ comes out of operation, the slides held by it falling.
(7) The Jacq. P³ comes into operation anew and now the slides belonging to
the carriages that are not to be crossed are raised and held fast by the bar M³.
(8) The carriages that have hitherto been held back in the back comb and
which have to cross, are brought forwards into the middle comb in the
manner described under the heads 2 and 3.
(9) The middle comb shifts the carriages over one comb-slot towards the right
and Jacquard P2 comes out of operation, the slides B² raised by it falling.
1'
(10) The bars M1, M2, M³₁, and M³, go backwards and the crossed carriages
of the back row are thereby moved into the back comb.
(11) Jeq. P³ passes out of operation, the whole of the carriages of the back
row are now again in like positions and operation II. is completed.
OPERATION III.
Crossing any desired carriages of the Front Row with the Carriages of the
Back Row that are Opposite to them in the same comb-slots.
(1) The Jacquard P comes into operation and the carriges that are not held
fast thereby i.e., the carriages that are to be crossed-are moved in a known
manner into the middle comb and are there shifted towards the right to the
extent of a comb slot. (At the beginning of the operation the bars M³, M, and
M², and also their slides B2 and pickers P2 have been shifted into their forward
position).
(2) The Jacquard 12 comes into operation and raises the slides B2 of those carriages
that have come out of the front comb; the bars M³, and M2 move backwards.
Jacquard P3 has likewise come into operation and the slides B3 of those carriages
are raised that have not to cross.
5

page_text: (3) The carriages of the back row that have to be crossed are moved forward
without stoppage into the middle comb and into the front comb.
(4) The Jacq. 1" comes out of operation, the bars M, and M₁₂ move forwards
and the latter brings, as a result of its pressure and that of, the springs F1, the
uncrossed carriages into a row with the crossed ones of the back row, which con-
sequently now become carriages of the front row.
After the carriages coming from the back comb are carried forwards over the
pickers P2, the Jacq. P2 comes out of operation, the middle comb shifts to the
extent of a comb-slot towards the left and the bars M2, and M2 move backwards
again, whereupon the carriages previously held by the Jacq. 12 are brought in a
known manner into the back comb.
2
(5) The Jacq. P³ comes out of operation anil the carriages held by it come
into a row with the crossed carriages of the front comb which now become
oarriages of the back row.
(6) The bars M', M¹, M¹„, and also M², and M2 are brought back into the
position they had at the commencement of operation 1, and operation III is now
completed.
As
The Jacquards brought into connexion with the pickers I" and P² respectively
come into operation after each engagement of the pickers with the teeth of the
carriages. The carriages held back in the middle comb are shifted in accord-
ance with the construction of the lace-ground by the laterally applied cams.
each picker independently of the others holds the corresponding carriage back
in the respective comb, and each picker can be operated in any desired manner by
the corresponding Jacquard, it follows that any desired carriages can be held back
in the two outer combs as often as desired and as long as desired. Since, however,
in order to produce a twist, it is necessary to transfer the corresponding carriages
from one comb into the other, no twist can be formed by the corresponding bobbin
threads whilst the carriages are so held back.
It is clear from this that any desired bobbin-threads can be kept out of opera-
tion or be crossed as often or as long as desired. The arranging of the twists
in order can, however, take place in any desired sequence, as illustrated by Fig. 2
of the drawings, which represents a strip of lace produced by machine and having
longitudinal edges a a and b b.
Whereas, in fact, in the machines hitherto known, all twists falling in the
same horizontal transverse line, e.g. 11, are provided simultaneously, because
all the carriages are simultaneously operative and therefore work in rows, this
simultaneous production of the twists in the same horizontal line is in no way
necessary in the present machine; nor is it any more necessary that one twist-
row be completed before another row can be begin. Moreover, as in hand pillow-
lace making, all twists falling in the diagonal 2-21 can be produced one after
another afterwards those of the diagonal 3-31, and so on. Furthermore, it is
not necessary to keep to a definite direction, so that, for example, first all the
twists of the space I can be completed, then those of the space II, then those of the
space III, and so on.
In connexion with this, moreover, there is obtained over the making of pillow-lace
by hand, the advantage that instead of one strip several such are prepared simul-
taneously and in each of these strips several twists can be made at once. (The
hand can, of course, at once hold and move only a single bobbin).
If the kind of the lace to be produced renders it necessary, each thread can,
just as in making pillow-lace by hand, be employed in exactly the same way and
be carried gradually from one edge of the lace to the other, as shown in Fig. 3,
which represents a turchon ground, the production of which cannot be effected
with any of the known lace-machines.
"
The carriages may be caused to enter the middle comb, and the latter be shifted
in any desired order or manner according to the lace-ground to be produced.
The machine can thus be so arranged:
(1) That any desired bobbin-threads of each or either row will cross one another

page_text: separately and it may be, any desired carriages will pass on in the same comb
from right to left or vice versa according to the shifting of the middle comb;
(2) That simultaneously any desired bobbin-threads of the front row will cross
with any desired bobbin-threads of the back row and any desired carnages pass
from the front row into the back row and vice versa.
Therefore, any desired bobbin-threads whatever can cross with one another and
be shifted in the comb-slots at any desired times and in any desired direction, so
that by means of this machine all lace-grounds and laces can be made that are
produced by hand.
Besides the correct production of the twists, it is necessary for the beautiful
appearance of the lace also that the twists be brought into the correct position
in relation to one another and be held fast therein until they are prevented from
changing form and position in the pattern by the making of new twists and the
placing thereof in succession to the former.
For this purpose there are employed needles n', which are equal in number
to the comb-slots and which are separated from one another by guides E° and
are capable of being moved independently in..vertical planes forwards and back-
wards and up and down. These needles can be moved laterally only in union
with their guides, and by moving the latter, so that, therefore, the needles are
compelled to be inserted always at the same places above the carriages.
Two Jacquards serve for moving the needles:-
By means of the one (a fine-bar Jacquard) the needles that hold the twists are
drawn back so that they come out of contact with the threads; the second Jacqurd,
which serves to lift the needles, has to produce a varying height of lift, because
the same needle must lift the twists to a varying height according as this is
necessitated by the joining to twists that are already held tight.
The height of lift can be varied as desired at any desired times. Consequently
after the completion of a twist, the latter can be lifted to any desired height in
a vertical direction by means of the needle that is inserted under it and im-
mediately above the carriages forming it.
When the needles have been completely pushed forwards, so that their points
project forwards beyond the bobbin-threads, then the needles are suitably lifted
and each needle remains fixed in the position into which it is raised, until it is
drawn back by the fine-bar Jacquard. Their upward shifting is produced, like
the drawing-back, by means of the pattern-card of the corresponding Jacquard,
and therefore the movement and position of the needles can be determined at
will, in contradistinction to the known lace-machines, in which one of the two
needle-bars remains inserted only until the next row of twists has been formed
and the needles of the second needle-bar begin to lift this newly formed row of
twists.
'
Thus, whereas in all such machines, twisting can only be done in rows at a
time, and each row of twists thereby produced is lifted by the needles immediately
after completion, all the twists being, in consequence of the equal lift or stroke
of both needle-bars, lifted to the same extent and held fast for the same length
of time; the manner of operation in completing the lace in the present machine
is as follows when, as shown in Fig. 4, all the twists a, b, c, d falling one after
another into, the diagonal 1-11 are made, and then in the same manner the
twists aº, bº, cº, do falling into the diagonal 2-2:-
First the needle belonging to the twist a is inserted under the latter, lifts it
into the position (a) shown, and holds it fast in that position. After the for-
mation of the twist b the corresponding needle is inserted, lifts it into the posi-
tion (6) shown, and holds it there. When the following twist a° is to be added under-
neath the twist a, the needle that holds 'the twist a is withdrawn and is at once
moved to pass under the newly formed twist a; and the latter is then lifted
until it assumes the position (a) shown.
When the needle is drawn away from the twist a, the latter is already held
by the. adjacent finished, twists.and can therefore no longer come out of its place.

page_text: Fig. 1 shows the needles n' in their highest position and inserted into the lace
with their mechanism; at n² they are represented as in their lowest position and
withdrawn from the lace.
It has already been stated that the needles move between guides E°. These
consist of thin steel blades and in their entirety resemble a large comb, in whose
slots the needles can be pushed up and down, and forwards and backwards.
The needles are soldered in thin bars 62, which are jointed at G2 to bars b³,
which are carried in E and can move from and towards the carriages horizon-
tally. At G³ are jointed to the bars 63 slides B which are like those employed
for the pickers and which are connected by cords S with a Jacquard.
If any desired slides B are at any desired moment not raised by the Jacquard,
they, and, of course, thereby the needles connected with them, are drawn back-
wards by a longitudinal bar M, situated under them, in its backward movement,
and the needles are consequently drawn out of the twists held by them. By
the forward movement of a bar I', following hereupon, the needles are brought
forward again between the slide-springs E°. A needle is drawn out of the lace
only when a new twist is to be put into order below a twist held by the needle.
After it has been drawn out the needle therefore immediately passes in again
between the slide springs and suitably raises the newly formed twists.
For raising the needles there are jointed to the bars at G₁ vertical bars 64.
These are toothed on their upper and rearwardly projecting edges. They have
each a vertical longitudinal slots and are connected with an axle d, which is
horizontal and is mounted stationarily and in the longitudinal direction of the
machine, by the passage of this axle through the said slots.. The bars 6 can
consequently be moved upwards and downwards and be rotated forwards and
backwards on this axle. The arrangement is such that two pawls Ki and K2
engage in the teeth of the bar 6 as soon as the corresponding needle ¹ is pushed
forwards between the slide-springs. As soon as the needles n' are drawn out of
the twists in consequence of the action of the Jacquard, the corresponding bars b*
are rotated about the axle d'; their parts located above the axle must consequently
turn forwards and their teeth thereby come out of contact with the pawls K¹
and K2 and, liberated from these, the bars 64 descend; in consequence of this
the bars 2 rotate about the joints G2 downwards and as a result the needles con-
nected with the bars 62 come into their lowest position. The pawls K¹ are
stationarily mounted but the pawls K² are carried by the bars 65. Of the latter
the machine contains as many as there are needles. These bars 65 can be moved
vertically upwards and downwards in guides E5 and E6; their downward move-
ment is limited by a projection e, which strikes against the guide E6. On each
of these bars six small catches are arranged over one another. These catches
which are each rotatable about 'a pin or bolt 1 (Fig. 5), carry at their upper for-
ward ends springs F2, which bear against small pins fastened near to the front
edge of the corresponding bar 65, and thereby press the pawls forwards so that
they do not project with their lower ends beyond the rear edges of the bars 65.
At each catch is connected by means of a cord st, 2 or s with a Jacquard.
These catches are prevented by pins to which are fastened to the bars 65 and
project into small slots in the catches, from rotating forwards beyond. a certain
extent as a result of the stress of the springs F2. If one of the cords s¹-56 is
pulled, the corresponding catch must rotate backwards and thereby bring its lower
end over the rear edge of the bar 65. As soon as the pull of the wire-cord. con-
nected therewith ceases, the catch in question is immediately rotated forwards
by its spring F2, so that the rearwardly projecting part again stands in front
of the rear edges of the bar 65. Below each horizontal row of catches there is im-
mediately behind the bars 65 a horizontal longitudinal bar q¹ qª..
org. When
these are raised they strike against those catches that are at this moment drawn
backwards by the Jacquard, whereby the bars 65 connected to these catches are
raised.. This. upward movement is transferred to the bars..b by the pawls K³

page_text: that are connected with the bars 65 and engage in the teeth of the bars b*,
in consequence of this the corresponding needles n' are raised.
and
As soon as the bars q' . . . q descend, the bars b and the pawls K2, which
are connected therewith and by means of which the bars b' are raised, do so also.
If now, however, the needles are to remain for any length of time at the height
attained, the bars must be prevented from following the bars b. For this
purpose serve the stationary pawls K', which hold the needles only until the
fine-bar Jacquard rotates the upper ends of the bars 6 outwards and thereby
removes them from the stationary pawls K¹.
The bars q
76 are at their two ends provided with guides f¹
(Fig. 6). With these they are pushed along stationary and vertical bars 6". In
consequence of this the bars q¹ 26 can be moved only vertically. On each
guide f¹ f6 there is provided a horizontal pin 1, or 26. These pins
pass into slots on the ends of corresponding arms of two-armed levers H
H%,
which are pivoted at I
VI and whose other arms are each provided
with a lever-rod h¹ h2 or h. The lower ends of these lever-rods are jointed
by pins to one arm of a two-armed lever H7 (igs. 7 and 8). The other arm of the
lever H7 carries a roller r, which is pressed by a helical spring against a cam S
provided with suitable projections, so that the rotating cam S effects the oscilla-
tion of the lever H7. The lever-rods hi
h are connected with the lever H7
at different distances from its axis of rotation VII, and are consequently raised
to different extents by its oscillation, as also, therefore, are all the bars etc., con-
nected with and raised by these lever-rods.
The lever-rods h¹
hore so connected with the lever H7 that the rod h¹
produces a rise of one unit (e.g. 1 millimetre), the rod ² one of two-units, one
of three units h one of four units, he one of six units, and 6 one of eight units.
The raising of the bars q¹. 96 is effected by two strokes, which are made
in as quick succession as possible after each needle insertion, and the lever H7
lifts at the second stroke twice as high as at the first and consequently to the
extent of 2, 4, 6, 8, 12 or 16 units. Before each stroke the Jacquard connected
with the catches k¹
6 comes into operation. As these two strokes have
to be made in as quick succession as possible, there is employed for this purpose
a so-called double-action Jacquard, such as are used in the English curtain-
machine for producing combination-goods. The needles are consequently brought
to their place not with a jerk but by two upward movements in quick succession.
By this means it is possible to raise the needles as desired to an extent varying
from one unit up to twenty units. In order, for example, to lift a needle to the
extent of eleven units, at the first stroke the catch belonging to the bar q³ is drawn
back by the Jacquard and at the second stroke that of the bar qt. At the first
movement the needle is thereby raised to the extent of three units, at the second,
as in this movement each stroke is double as high as in the first, it is raised to
the extent of eight-i.e. to the extent of eleven units altogether.
In order that the size of the lift-unit may be altered in accordance with the
quality of the goods (e.g. from 1 to 2 millimetres), the arm of the lever H con-
nected with the rods h¹
16 consists of two parts a and b, which are connected
by screws. The part a, to which the lever rods h¹
16 are secured, has a
longitudinal slot. If the screws that connect the two parts of the lever-arm are
eased, the part a*, and consequently the joints of the rods h¹
moved from or towards the pivot VII, and thereby the lengths of stroke of the
rods h¹. ho can be made greater or less according to the requirement of
the pattern.
h6, can be
From what has been said it will be seen that it is not only possible to bring
the needles into twenty different positions as regards height, but that the unit
of the movement can be made greater or smaller as desired.
The described, needle-mechanism consequently brings the twists exactly to
the place required by the pattern, and therefore takes the place of the card

page_text: or parchment used in making pillow-lace by hand; it takes the place also of the
needles and the pillow of the hand pillow-lace maker, because the twists are held
fast at the places corresponding to the pattern until by the bringing into position
of further twists, every possibility is removed of disturbing the form and position
of the finished twists.
Whereas in lace-making machines of the kind heretofore employed working a
row at a time, each row of twists is lifted at once and to the same height each
time, so that the finished goods must be wound upon the lace-beam at once and
uniformly, this is effected in this machine usually only and in the most practical
manner after an entire pattern has been completed; this winding-up can however
take place at any other desired moment as far as allowed by the construction of
the pattern.
As shown in Fig. 1, the lace is passed over a guide ban L is then caught by
the pegs of a winding-up beam 0, and is then passed on to the lace-beam W,
which is driven by means of friction by the winding-up beam.
The latter has imparted to it, instead of a continuously progressive rotation,
a variable rotation which is determined in each case by the time necessary for
the completion of the pattern and by the amount of the winding-up of the lace
and which is produced by means of the Jacquard that causes the up-and-down
movement of the needles and of a special winding-up apparatus actuated by the
Jacquard just mentioned.
This winding-up apparatus is constructed in the following manner:--
On the axle of the winding-up beam 0 there is loose a double lever I and
fast a ratchet-wheel r¹ and a detent-wheel 2; the double lever is connected by a
pin with a lever-rod I, which at each crossing of the carriages, is moved up-
wards and downwards by means of a double lever, roller, and cam like the lever-
rods h¹.
6. In order to enable the length of stroke, and consequently
also the length of the piece of lace to be wound up, to be made as large or as
small as desired in accordance with the requirement of the pattern, the pin x
is capable of being shifted in a slot in the lever I. The other arm of this lever
has likewise a pin x (see also Fig. 9), on which there is placed next to the pawly!
for the ratchet-wheel 1 an arm I³, which is rigidly connected with this pawl and
carries at its other end a roller. This roller presses on a two-armed lever I³,
which is pivoted at 2 and whose lower end is connected by a cord s with the
Jacquard that causes the needle-strokes.
When this cord is pulled, the upper end of the lever 13 rises and thereby also
causes the arm I to rise. When the cord 7 is liberated by the Jacquard, the
roller presses down the lever I³ and in consequence of this the lever I also
descends.
The pawl y engages with the teeth of the ratchet-wheel r¹ when the arm I² is
not raised by the lever I³, which happens according to desire through the pattern-
cards of the Jacquard. If this pawl be in gear, it will, during the downward
movement of the lever-rod I', press upon the ratchet-wheel and thereby rotate
the winding-up beam O forwards about its axis and wind up the finished lace
hitherto held by the needles. The detent-wheel with the detent y serves for
preventing the winding-up beam from rotating in the contrary direction.
The winding-up of the finished lace is therefore done only when the pawl y¹
provided for the winding-up mechanism is not raised by a pattern-card of the
Jacquard and therefore can act on the ratchet-wheel;, the size move over, of the
piece of lace wound up depends upon the position of the pin, which is shifted in
the slot of the double lever I in accordance with the pattern-length for the time
being and is then screwed fast..
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said in-
vention and in what manner the same is to performed I declare that what I
5 claim is:-
Like the moling' nillow-lace of the kind in which the bobbin-carriages

page_text: can be conveyed to and fro by rollers in three combs arranged in the same arc
of a circle and can, before they pass into one of the outer combs, be shifted
towards the right or left, according to the construction of the pattern, by the
middle comb, which can be shifted longitudinally, having three sets of pickers P¹,
P2, P3, which are each moved by a Jacquard independently of the others and of
which the two former hold out of contact with the rollers R1 and R2 the carriages
guided in the front comb C¹ and the middle comb C respectively, whilst the set
of pickers Ps raises into the back comb C3 the carriages brought within its reach
by the set of pickers P', slides B1, B2 and B³, which can be lifted and which serve
for connecting the pickers with the Jacquards, being provided respectively with
noses N1 N1, N2 N1, and N³ N³, upon which act longitudinal bars M¹, M², M³,
and M M M³, which can be shifted horizontally in relation to the combs by
means of levers and discs, and stationary bars M2, M3, and M³, of which
the bars M1, M2, M³, push backwards the slides that are not raised, the bars M¹2
M2, M3, push these slides forwards again, and the bars M', M3 M³ prevent the
raised slides from moving forwards.
2. A machine according to the preceding claim in which needles n' can be
moved independently of one another in guides E°, are connected with a Jacquard
by bars and slides B, are moved backwards and forwards by longitudinal
hars M, M, respectively when the corresponding slides are not raised by the
Jacquard, and are raised and lowered by means of toothed bars 64, which are
jointed to the bars 63, are vertically movable, and are rotatable about an axle 4,
and in which engage pawls K1 K2, of which the pawls K' are stationary and hold
fast the bars 6' until they are rotated by the Jacquard, so that the needles remain
raised till then, whilst the pawls K2 are arranged on vertically movable bars b³,
which each carry a row of rotatable catches k¹
6, which are connected
with a second Jacquard and which when turned backwards can be raised by
longitudinal bars q. 9 in order to effect the rise of the needles and the
bars after they have descended after liberation from the pawls K¹, these
longitudinal bars being shifted by a lever H7 and a cam S by means of
levers H.
He and rods h
ho
3. In a machine according to Claim 1, an apparatus for winding up the finished
lace applied to the winding-up beam O and consisting of a ratchet-wheel r¹ and a
detent-wheel both fixed to the winding-up beam and a two-armed lever I,
which is loose on the winding-up beam and is moved by a lever and a cam and
which carries a pawl y' and an arm I³, which bears against a two-armed lever I³
connected with the Jacquard that causes the needle-strokes, so that this Jacquard,
can, by raising and lowering the arm I, cause the winding-up beam to stop
or to be rotated, during the oscillation of the two-armed lever I.
4. In a machine for making pillow-lace, apparatus for working the bobbin-
carriages constructed, arranged, and operating substantially as hereinbefore
described with reference to and illustrated by Fig. 1 of the drawings referred to.
5. In a machine for making pillow-lace, apparatus for working the needles con-
structed, arranged and operating substantially as hereinbefore described with
reference to and illustrated in Figs. 1, 5, 6, 7, and 8 of the drawings referred to.
6. In a machine for making pillow-lace, apparatus for working the winding-up
beam constructed, arranged, and operating substantially as hereinbefore described
with reference to and illustrated in Figs. 1 and 9 of the drawings referred to.
Dated this 6th day of Octction 1907
For the Applicant,
W. LLOYD WISE,
46 Lincoln's Inn Fields, London,; W.C., Chartered Patent Agent.