CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR SEWING, EMBROIDERING, AND UNITING OR ORNA- MENTING BY STITCHES, VARIOUS DESCRIPTIONS OF TEXTILE FABRICS
Year: 1849

page_text: ALL
HO THESE PRESENTS SHALL OME, I, CHARLES
MOREY, of Manchester, Gentleman, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent under the Great Seal of the United Kingdom of Great Britain
and Ireland, bearing date at Westminster, the Thirtieth day of August, in.
the thirteenth year of Her reign, did give and grant unto me, the said Charles
Morey, my exors, adñiors, and assigns, Her special license, full power, sole
privilege and authority, that I, the said Charles Morey, my exors, admors,
and assigns, should at any time agreo with, and no others, from time to
time and at all times thereafter during the term of years therein mentioned,
should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within that part
of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland called England, Her
Dominion of Wales, and Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, and also in the
Islands of Jersey, Guernsey, Alderney, Sark, and Man, and in all Her Colo-
nies and Plantations abroad, my Invention of "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN
MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR SEWING, EMBROIDERING, AND UNITING OR ORNA-
MENTING BY STITCHES, VARIOUS DESCRIPTIONS OF TEXTILE FABRICS;" in which said
Letters Patent there is contained a proviso requiring that I, the said Charles
Morey, shall particularly describe and ascertain the nature of my said Inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be derformed, by an instrument in
writing under my hand and seal, to be enrolled in Her said Majesty's High
Court of Chancery within six calendar, months next and immediately after the
A

page_text: date of the said in part recited Letters Patent, as, reference being thereunto
had, will more fully and at large appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that, in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said
Charles Morey, do hereby declare the nature of my Invention, and the
manner in which the same is to be performed, is particularly described and
ascertained in and by this present instrument in writing, as follows (that is
to say) :-
My Invention relates to machinery or apparatus for uniting or securing two
or more pieces of cloth or other fabric together by sewing or stitches, or for
embroidering or ornamentation by the tambour chain or other stitch, per-
formed by the apparatus herein-after described.
My improved machinery or apparatus for sewing comprises five several
machines or modifications thereof, and adapted for different descriptions of
work, and performing three distinct kind of stitches, whereby to connect or
ornament the fabrics desired to be so treated.
nut.
DESCRIPTION OF MACHINE No. 1.
Figure 1, Shee A, represents a front elevation of this machine; Figure 2,
an end view; and Figure 3, a plan of the same. This machine is calculated
for sewing the coarser descriptions of material, such as canvass or sacking. It
consists of two wheels, a and b, with leaves or teeth, which work together in
the manner of toothed gearing; one of these wheels, b, is mounted on a shaft c,
to which it is keyed or otherwise fixed; the shaft is fitted in bearings on
standards d, d, secured to the pedestal e. The wheel a is sustained by a stud
f, secured in the slot hole of the bent arm g, by which it can be placed more
or less in gear with the wheel b. This stud being fixed, the wheel a is allowed
to turn freely on the stud, and is retained in its position sideways by a screw
Motion is communicated to the shaft c by the winch handle h, causing
both wheels a and b to rotate. The leaves or teeth have each a notch or
hollow cut therein, formed by turning a groove in the periphery of the
wheels. The notches i, i, of the wheels a and b, when in conjunction at the
point of gearing, form a circular passage through between the wheels, as seen
in Figure 2. In this opening the point of the needle k is placed, and sustained
in position by the conjoined-teeth-for-the-time-being, the circular aperture
prescribing its extent of movement in either direction. The head of the
needle k is sustained by an upright l, secured by a bolt passing through the
slot hole in the pedestal e, in order to adapt it for different lengths of needle,
as may best suit the operation or kind of work to be performed, the longer
needles requiring, of course, to be considerably thicker to give the necessary

page_text: stiffness; the eye, as in ordinary needles, is situate at the head, which is
placed in the cavity m of the upright 1, the thread being drawn through it in
the usual manner. The needle k, being simply dropped into the cavity, first
introducing the needle's point between the wheels, is readily removed and
replaced, as required from time to time in the progress of the work. The
stitch performed by this machine is what may be termed "basting" or
"running," as exhibited at Figures 4 and 5; it is formed by introducing the
thickness or thicknesses of cloth to be sewn or stitched together, which are
introduced between the teeth of the wheels a and b from the end of the
machine shewn in Figure 2, the teeth drawing in the cloth and forming it
into a series of undulations, and during which the cloth is pushed forward on
the needle, the point of which is situate in line between the centres of the
wheels a and b; the undulations being greatest at this point, the needle will
pass directly through and through the cloth or fabric to be sewn.
thus pierced will be pushed forward on the needle k, the cloth succeeding it
between the wheels, which may be continued until the needle is full. The
needle k is then removed by lifting the head from the cavity m, and the cloth
drawn over the thread, as seen at Figures 4 and 5, when the needle may be
again introduced between the teeth, and the operation continued as before;
the thread is secured at both ends, to render the work complete. It will be
observed; that according to the depth or coarseness of the leaves n, so will
be the length of the stitch produced by the machine; and consequent fineness
of the work.
DESCRIPTION OF MACHINE No. 2.
The coth
This machine, which is delineated in Sheets B and C, executes the sewing
in the chain or tambour stitch; this being performed by two instruments, a
needle and a hooked instrument, or a needle and a point, which latter instru-
ment I prefer, as the stitch is thereby effected with a greater degree of
certainty, and the needle is not weakened by the notch, as is necessary for
working with the hook.
In Sheet B, Figure 1 represents a front elevation of this machine, and
Figure 2 a plan of the same; while Sheet C exhibits, at Figure 3, an eleva-
tion of the left-hand end, as it appears at Figure 1; and Figure 4, an
elevation of the opposite end; the other Figures shewing detached parts,
herein-after severally referred to. In this machine the sewing is performed
by means of a needle, which perforates the cloth, carrying with it the thread,
which is taken hold of by the hooked instrument, or the point before referred
to, and by which it is held in the form of a loop until the next passage of the
needle is effected, when it releases the then loop, and taking hold of the new
A 2

page_text: stitch or thread last passed through the cloth, the individual movements of
the instruments, together with the feed of the cloth and delivery of the thread,
being effected by the several parts of this machine, as will hereafter appear.
A, A, is a suitable bed on framework, on which the shaft B, B, is mounted in
bearings a, a, carrying a smail fly wheel C for producing a regularity of
motion; it also carries a cam D, which is for the purpose of giving motion to
the needle, and also for delivering the necessary supply of thread to be given
out for each stitch. The end of the cam D has a groove turned in its
periphery, for the purpose of driving it, together with its shaft B, by means of
the driving wheel E, whose axis, which is supported in bracket bearings E', E',
from the bed A, may either be actuated by steam power or by the winch
handle E, or as shewn in the Drawing. The cam D communicates motion
to an arm F, pivoted at b, to a stud fixed to the bed A, the opposite end of
the arm having a spherical projection C, which is received into the cam
groove d, which, as it rotates, propels that end of the arm F in a horizontal
direction. The motion of the arm F is imparted to the bar G by a pin
projecting from the under side, and taking into a slot in the arm F, which
bar G gives motion to the needle c. The needle holder consists of of a
pendant arm H, fixed on the front end of the bar G. The needle e is fixed
in this arm by means of a dovetail picco f, which slips into a corresponding
groove in the arm H, by which the needle is prevented receding from the end
thrust consequent on the passage of the needle, which is further retained by its
head being conical, and opposed to resistance in the opposite direction. The
parrallellism of the pendent arm II is maintained by a guide fixed to the
bearings G, in which the bar G slides. The lateral reciprocating motion of the
armi F also imparts motion to the bar I, which is fixed thereto, the click h on
the end of which takes into a ratchet wheel k, on the spindle of the thread-
feeding wheel L, propelling it round the distance of one tooth of the ratchet k
at a time. This wheel L is fitted on a stem 1, supported from a bracket at
the end of the machine, the wheel being furnished with a binding screw ", by
which it is adjusted in respect of height opposite the eye 7, which conducts
the thread from the bobbin, the point of the binding screw being received in
one of a series of recessed rings in the stem 7. The same effect may be ensured
by fixing a collar by a binding screw on the stem below the centre-tube-of-the-
ι
wheel L. The material M, to be stitched or sewn, is fixed between two bars
N, N, the front bar being pressed up against it by the lever arm O jointed to a
bracket arm P, the extremity of which arm is furnished with a binding screw
i, which forces the lever against the bars N, N, by which the cloth M is
retained between them, the greater proportion of such pressure always taking

page_text: effect where the needle enters the cloth; the bars N, N, resting against a face
on the bed A of the machine, by which they are prevented receding from the
pressure of the binding lever O. The arms O and P are affixed to the horizontal
bar Q, turning in bearings k, k, by which the levers O and P are allowed to drop
down out of the way when their hold is released on the bars N, N; these bars
are mounted on a sliding bar R, supported in bearings 1, 1, the bars N, N,
being connected to the sliding bar R by the end plates S, S. The back bar N
is a fixture to these plates, with the front bar fitted so that it may be removed
for the introduction of the cloth, a projection on one end slipping into a hole
in plate S, and the other fitted with a bolt c' slipped into a corresponding
opening in the opposite plate S. The bolt c' is held in position by a spring d
pressing on the staple through which the bolt slides. These plates S, S, also
carry a rack T, finely serrated, by which motion is imparted to the whole
sliding frame in a longitudinal direction. The motion of the rack is imparted
by means of a click, shewn in the plan, Figure 2, Sheet B, in dotted lines,
and detached at Figure 5; its channel is cut in the front of the bed to receive
the rack under the bed plate A. This click is actuated by a lever n, to which
it is pivoted; this lever is mounted on a fulcrum on the under side of the bed
plate A, and moved by a rod P, and connected with a pendant spring arm 7 fixed
to the standard 7', and bearing at its lower end on the periphery of a cam U or
the shaft B, which cam imparts a reciprocating motion to the rod p, the cam
U forcing it in one direction, and the spring of the arm q reversing its motion.
When the periphery of the cam U recedes, the extent of motion it imparts to
the rod p is varied by limiting the return of the spring arm 7, by which the
lever n will have greater or less motion imparted to it, so that the click m may
take one or more teeth of the rack at each movement, the extremity of the
cam U being sufficient to give the extent of motion required for the longest
stitch. For this purpose a small set screw e' is secured by a bracket to the
bed A, and with the point opposed to the spring 7, which, on returning with
the motion of the cam U, it may be arrested so as to restrict the retrogade
motion to the limits required, and thus cause the click m to take hold of one,
two, or three teeth. A spring f, pressing on the tail of click m, always keep it
in gear with the teeth of the rack T, which pressure is slight, and such as will
not produce any retrograde movement on the rack during the backward
motion. As before mentioned, the motion of the needle e is imparted by the
bar G, while that of the hook instruments is communicated by two cams, V
and W, on the shaft B, which transmit an alternating motion to the sliding
bar X and X', supported in two brackets S, S, from the bed A; to the bar X'
the hooked instrument is affixed, which will be better understood by reference

page_text: to the detached views, Figs. 6, 7, 8, and 9, Sheet C; Figure 6 being a side
view of the needle, with the position of the hook after the needle has passed
through the cloth; Fig. 7, a side view of the hook, shewing it while holding
the loop of the thread; Fig. 8, a plan, as seen at Fig. 6; and Fig. 9, the
same before the needle enters the cloth. The action of the machine is as
follows: The material M to be sewn having been fixed between the bars
N, N, and the thread, which is previously wound on the bobbin Y, passes
partially round the periphery of the wheel L to an eyè t, from which it is con-
ducted over a roller u, supported on the end of a fixed arm u', and thence
to a second roller g¹, just below the level of the needle, where a hole his formed
through the needle holder, by which the thread enters, passing to the eye of
the needle on the under side. Between the rollers u and g¹ a small weight v
is suspended on the thread sufficient to give the necessary tension to the thread,
and by which it is at all times maintained in the same degree, thereby avoiding
any chance of accident to the thread from the jerking motions of the instru
ments and friction produced in drawing in the thread. The thread w, having
passed through the eye of 'the needle, is secured to the cloth, and on motion
being given to the machine the needle bar G receives a lateral motion, say
towards the back, causing the needle e to perforate the cloth, carrying through.
a double or loop, of the thread w, as seen at Fig. 6. The advancing cam W
of the bar brings up the hook, which passes over the thread without any
effect, the cam V then causing it to recede, at which time the hollow in the
side of the needle will be immediately under the course of the hook's point, and
which, on receding, will take hold of the thread (this hold will be between the
fixed end of the thread and where it enters the eye of the needle), and draw
out a loop, which, from the hook being inclined, it will be opened, as-shewn in
Fig. 7. On hold being taken by the hook, the needle begins to recede, the
cam & being so cut as to allow it to remain stationary while the hook takes
hold. On the needle receding sufficiently to be free of the cloth, the cam U
begins to act, and by its motion imparts, by means of the lever n and click m
in the advanced movement to the rack T, the distance of one stitch, which,
carrying the cloth M with it, the next perforation of the needle takes place ;-
but, in addition to the needle passing through the cloth M, it also passes'
through the loop (see Figure 7 and 9) formed by the hook, which, from the
advancing of the cloth M, such-loop-is-immediately-behind-the-part-perforated
by the needle. The advancing motion of the hook now taking place, releases
the loop (see Figure 8) of which it had hold, the thread so released being
drawn close up on the needle at the back of the cloth by reason of the tension
produced by the weight V. The hook now takes hold of the thread on the.

page_text: needle, is before, and drawing out a loop from the next stitch, the loop
previously released, and which, as stated, was drawn up to the needle, will, on
the retrograde motion of the needle, be still held by the new loop. The move-
ment of the cloth M again takes place, and another passage of the needle
through the cloth M and loop, as held by the hook, will be repeated as before,
the sewing been effected by a succession of such movements. Fig. 10,
Sheet C, represents the cloth having stitches so produced on that side placed
in front while being operated on; and Fig. 11, Sheet C, represents the stitches
as they will appear on the opposite side. The hook instrument, as before
stated, is fixed to the under side of the bar X', the stem of the hook being
broad and flat, so as to act as a spring, which presses down on a pad k fixed
to the bed A. The stem being inclined, the hook m' is raised up on
approaching the needle, by which its correct position with respect to the notch
cut in the needle e will be insured; the fall produced by the inclination of the stem
brings the hook m' and loop down opposite the needle, by which the correct
passage of the needle through the loop is effected. The hook m¹ should be at a
sufficient distance behind the cloth to ensure that when it leave its hold of the
thread, the same loop will not be again taken hold of during each stitch, that is,
at each double movement of the arm F. The click h will turn round the wheel
La certain distance, which will give out a definite quantity of thread according
to the length of stitch, the different lengths required for stitches being
regulated by the three different diameters of the wheel L, the wheel perform-
ing the same extent of revolution; but the periphery of the larger diameter
travelling through a greater distance than the smaller, causes a greater amount
of thread to be given out, which is effected by the friction of contract in
passing round either periphery of the wheel. L, the position of the thread being
changed according to the length of stitch required. A spring x keeps the
pall h up to the ratchet wheel K, and another spring y presses on the periphery.
of a disc Z, fixed to the spindle of a wheel E. This spring y presents a
functional surface, preventing the wheel L turning more than the precise
distance of a tooth of the ratchet wheel K; from the impetus it may receive
froni the pall, the thread bobbin has also a a similar contrivance for keeping
the requisite tension on the thread, by which to produce the necessary frectional
contract on the wheel L; this is effected by the spring acting on the
periphery of the disc z¹ fixed to the bobbin Y, which otherwise revolves freely.
on its spindle Y. By thus measuring and delivering out the thread as the
sewing progresses, any inequality of strain is prevented being exerted on the
thread w, which would materially interfere with the correct performance
of the machine, either from the same becoming, too tense to the danger of its

page_text: breaking, or too lax for the due performance of the work, the weight
ensuring the proper tension, as before explained.
Thus far the execution of the stitch has been confined to the needle and a
hooked instrument. The same machine, with some slight variation, is adapted
for effecting the same stitch by means of the instruments shewn in Figs.
12, 13, 14, 15, and 16. Thee needle e is similar to the preceeding one, but
without the notch, or only very slightly hollowed; but instead of the hook I
employ the pointed instrument n², which is secured to the bar O', this bar
being at its back end jointed with an extension of the bar X, continued out to
the requisite length. The bar O' is supported at that end by the bar X, its
other support consisting of a set screw p', the point of which slides in a groove
or chase r, determining the height at which it is supported, and also main-
taining the parrallelism of its motion. This instrument consists of the point
n', which take hold of the top, and a broad surface s', the under side of which is
curved and inclined to the plane of the needle's motion, as seen in section,
Fig. 14. The bar o¹ is pressed by a slight spring t, secured to some part of
the framework. The thread is introduced as before described, passing to the
eye of the needle e, and entering on the under side, and thence to the cloth,
where it is secured. The action of the instruments is as follows:-The needle
e, on perforating the cloth, passes under the part s', that being in the position
shewn at Figs. 13 and 14, which is thereby raised; when this is cffected, the
backward movement of the point N takes place to the position shewn at
Fig. 15, where it will fall to the level regulated by the screw p', the point
being just below the level of the upper surface of the needle (see Figs. 12 and
15), and advancing immediately, takes hold of the thread between the cloth
and the eye of the needle, drawing out a loop, as shewn at Fig. 13; the needle
at the same time performes the retrograde movement, which being effected,
the cloth is then moved, (in this arrangement, in the opposite direction, as
from left to right,) the loop will thus be drawn out, as shewn at Fig. 15; the
needle, on again entering the cloth, will pass through this loop, which, by the
falling of the point n' on the withdrawal of the needle, will be directly opposed
to the passage of the needle, so that it shall pass through the loop also.
Having entered the loop, the needle again raises the point to the position
shewn in dotted lines, Fig. 12, when the loop again moves backwards, leaving
the loop on the needle (see Fig. 15), and taking hold of the thread, as before,
to form the next stitch. The loop, thus released, is retained by the succeeding
loop after the withdrawal of the needle, the result producing a precisely similar
stitch to that last described, and exhibited in Figs. 10 and 11. The motion of
cloth M, as before mentioned, is from left to right, or opposite to the direction

page_text: in which it would be moved by the apparatus shewn in Figs. 1, 2, 3, and 4,
the necessary alteration being readily effected by reversing the position of the
teeth on the rack T, and also the click m on its lever, or so as to drive the rack
the opposite way. The pendant and spring arm 7, with its set screw, should
be altered, so that the cam U will take effect on the reverse side of its shaft,
and thereby draw the rod p instead of pushing it. The motion of the bar will
be imparted, as before, by the cams W and V, observing that they are so
arranged as will produce the intermittent motion described.
DESCRIPTION OF MACHINE No. 3.
This machine differs from the previous machines, not only in its several
motions and arrangements, but also in the kind of stitch produced, the sewing
being effected by means of two separate threads acting in concert, the one
thread being introduced by the motion of a needle, and the second by a
shuttle rotating on a circular shuttle race. The cloth carrier is also circular,
having hooks for the support thereof, and the cloth may be applied and
removed without suspending the operations of the machine, whereby any
length of cloth inay be sewed without intermission.
Figure 17, Sheet D, represents a side elevation of this machine; Figure 18.
a vertical section in the plane of the line A, B; Figure 19, Sheet E, is a
horizontal section taken on the plane of the lined C, D; Figure 20, a detail
sectional view on the line E, F; and Figures 21, 22, and 28, detail views
herein-after referred to.
the top. of
This machine is supported on a pedestal and pillar G, H, to
which pillar the circular plate a, a, is fixed in a central position. d, d, is the
circular supporting bar or ring for holding the hedges or pieces of cloth or
other fabric to be sewn or united by sewing. This ring d is arranged eccen-
trically with reference to the circular plate a, a, and is supported on a hori-
zontal projection e, e, from the said plate on one side, on an arm f, f, also
fastened to the said plate on the other or opposite side, as shewn, the arm
having a friction roller g, bearing against the inner side of ring d, to guide its
rotary motion. On the exterior face, of this bar are fitted, at proper intervals
apart, the curved or hooked supporting pins h, h, h, h, on which one, two, or
more edges of the cloth to be sewed are pinned or pressed, and round the top
edge of such bar or ring d are cut suitable rack teeth, as shewn in the several
Figures. A pall i, i, Figure 18, engages at one end with the rack teeth of
the ring d, and near its centre it is connected to the vertical lever k, k, which
lever has a fulcrum pin 7, by which it is secured to the interior of the frame-
work or standards m, m, m, m, which supports the driving shaft n, n, this

page_text: framework resting on and bolted to the circular plate a, a, before referred to
The palli is kept in connection with the rack teeth by means of the spring o
connected to the foot of the lever k, k, the said lever having an intermittent
vibrating motion imparted to it by means of a cam P formed on the drum
9, 9, on the driving. shaft n, n, the upper end of the lever bearing against
the said cam, and a spring 7, 7, pressing against the foot of the said lever,
serving to keep the upper end of the lever against the cam and drum. The
needle thread, as I term it, from its being introduced by the needle, is repre-
sented by blue lines in the several principal Figures, and is delivered from the
spool or bobbin 8, which turns loosely on the spindle t, t, connected to the
vibrating needle holder u, u, u, as shewn in Figure 17 and 18. This needle
holder is forked or branches into two parts at its upper end, as shewn, so as
to embrace a journal or axle v, v, supported on the top of the framework
m, m, m, and on which the holder occilates. The needle holder is vibrated
by means of a cam groove W, W, properly' cut for the purpose in the drum
7,9, on the driving shaft; and in order to lessen the friction a roller 'T', as
shewn in Figures 17 and 18 by dotted lines, is connected to the inside of the
needle holder which traverses the cam groove w, w. During its motion the
needle holder is bent into the shape shewn in Figure 17, and has on its back
a long spring X, X, confined to the same near its centre, the said spring
having a guiding pin y, shewn dotted at its upper end, a guiding hole at its
lower end, over and through which respectively the thread is conducted to the
under side of the needle a', a'. The needle a¹ is confined in the lower end of
the holder by the confining screw b¹, and has a hole or eye a little in the rear
of its point (see Figure 17), which should be small enough to keep the
thread from falling back from its own weight. The needle thread passes up
through the eye of the needle, and is carried by the same through the cloth,
entering an opening or space T¹ cut in the plate a, a, across the shuttle race
or groove. When the needle begins to be withdrawn, a loop of the needlo
thread is thrown up, as shewn detached at Figure 23, through which the
shuttle with the filling thread passes, as will be herein-after explained. It is
essential to the proper operation of the machine, that when the needle goes
forward, the thread shall be free to be drawn through the eye of the needle, in
order that the loop may be sufficiently enlarged to permit the shuttle to pass
through the same, and as essential when the needle is withdrawn by the
back vibration of the holder u, that the thread shall be rigidly held by the
holder, in order that the stitch may be effectually tightened. This is effected
by the use of a wide spring c', c', attached to the upper part of the supporting
framework m, m, &c., and so arranged in relation to the vibrating needle

page_text: holder u, u, u, and the spring a, a, on the back, under which the thread
passes, as before explained, that the holder, in its retrogade movement, shall
come in contact with the spring c', so as to press the upper end of the spring
a, and thereby hold the thread which passes under the spring a sufficiently
tight to draw up the stitch. The thread is again loosened as the holder
recedes from contact with spring c¹. Another method of accomplishing the
same result is represented by Figure 22, the guiding pin for the thread being
near the bottom of the holder, as shewn at d. The confining spring in this
case is a short one, and arranged on the side of the holder opposite the
guiding pin, as shewn at e', ', while the tightening spring is a bent lever
spring f,f, fitting at the lower end in a proper split formed in the heel of the
holder, which forms its support and fulcrum, its upper end being so arranged.
as to abut against some stationary part of the framework at the proper time
to hold the thread in the manner before explained, the said thread passing
across the holder from the guiding pin d', under the tightening spring, to the
guiding hole of g', under the confining spring e', as shewn in Figure 22. This
arrangement effects the same results as the preceding, the confining spring, by.
its own power, having sufficient hold of the thread to draw it from the bobbin
at the advance movement, so as to free it for delivery to the needle. The
thread, as held by the spring at the retrogade movement, is sufficient to draw
up the stitch, but is, however, not enough to tighten the same, this being
effected by the additional pressure of the spring c¹ at the proper time: The
bent spring,, Figure 17, supports the small four-sided frame 2, 2¹, i, 2ª,
the exterior of the inner side of which frame bears against the cloth on the
supporting bar d, d, just above the hooks on the same (the needle entering
just below said hooks). This keeps the cloth in position when the needle is
withdrawn. The small frame,, ',, also sustains the converging nipper
springs k³, ³, between which the needle and its thread pass on their passage
to the cloth, and when the needle is withdrawn, these springs serve to keep the
thread up sufficiently high to prevent the point of the needle, on its return,.
from splitting or becoming entangled with the same. 1, 1, Figures 19, 20,
and 21, is the shuttle for carrying the filling thread, which thread is repre-
sented by red lines in the several Figures. It is curved in its front part, as
shewn in the aforesaid Figures, so as to be revolved in the shuttle race:
m³, m', m², m³, framed in the circular plate a, a,. this shuttle race. being made
sufficiently wide to permit the rear end of the shuttle to be made straight for
the insertion of the spool n', n'; on which the filling thread is wound. The.
front of the shuttle is levelled or tapered down to a point which travels. in a

page_text: narrow circular guiding groove o¹, o¹, o¹, formed near the periphery of th
shuttle race, and below the bottom of the same, so that the shuttle shal
invariably pass through the loop. of the needle thread formed as befor
described. The shuttle 1, 1, is connected to the vertical rotating shaft p, p
(see Figures 19 and 20) by means of the two springs arms q, q', set out a
an acute angle with cach other, as shewn in Figure 19, these arms having a
their outer ends suitable studs or pins 1, 2, which enter corresponding hole
formed on the top of the straight part of the shuttle.
As the shuttle passes
through the loop of the needle thread, it is necessary that these spring armis
should be alternately disconnected from the shuttle, and this is effected by
means of a cam ledge s¹, s¹, formed in the middle of the frame m, m, m
directly over that part of the shuttle race m, m, when the loop is formed, and
so curved, as shewn in Figure 18, as to raise the arms q', ', alternately
enabling the shuttle to pass readily through the loop in a manner which will
be readily understood by the inspection of the said Figure. The vertical
shaft p, p, turns in the vertical tubular bearing t, t, pendant from and
secured to the framework m, m, m, and is connected, by a bevil wheel u
fixed at the top, to a similar wheel v₁ on the driving shaft n, n, so that rotary
motion may be imparted to the said shuttle. At each revolution of the
shuttle a portion of the filling thread will be taken up by the stitch which is
supplied from the bobbin or spool n¹, this being drawn out while the shuttle
is passing from the stitch to the opposite side of its race; and in order to
prevent the thread being cut or subjected to any undue abrasion, that side of
the shuttle race is champered off, and a gradual pull on the thread ensured,
as it reaches the point most distant from the stitch. In order that the filling
thread shall at no time become lax from the return of the shuttle to the
stitel, a pad or thick soft washer a¹ is secured to the lower end of the
shaft p¹, and so close to the face of plate a that a slight pressure will be
exerted on the thread as it passes under the red thread. By the motion of
the shuttle it returns in a doubled form, and is released during the passage of
the shuttle through the loop, and in the onward progress of the same, follow-
ing it through the loop. By this means the thread is prevented from becoming
-entangled-with-any-part-of the-apparatus. It should be observed that the
twist of the thread should not be such that by the motion of the shuttle it
will receive additional twist, as that would render it liable to kink, the reverse
or untwisting ensuring the proper operation of the machine. The driving
shaft n, n, is represented as being driven by a hand winch f, and furnished
with a fly wheel. It may, however, be actuated by any regular power.

page_text: In this machine the sewing is effected by means of two threads, as in the
last, but instead of the shuttle having a rotatory niotion, a reciprocating curvi-
linean motion is imparted to it, and by which the filling thread is neither
twisted or untwisted during its operation.
Sheet Frepresents this apparatus arranged according to this Invention.
Figure 24 is a front elevation of the machine; Figure 25, a plan of the upper
side of table; Figure 26, a plan of under side of the same; Figure 27, a
vertical section in the plane of the line a, b; and Figures 28 and 29, detached
views of the shuttle. The bed c, mounted on suitable framework or standards,
is furnished with a plate d on which some of the operative parts are secured,
the driving gear being placed below the bed c. The needle e is, in this
instance, curved to the radius of the circle struck from the point of oscillation,
and is fixed to the armf carried by the bridge g, affixed to a shaft h, supported
in bearings i, i, on the plate d, in which it is free to oscillate; motion is imparted
thereto by the curved arm k being connected by the rod to a crank m fixed
to the shaft of pinion 7, thus gearing with the wheel o on the driving shaft p,
both supported by suitable bearings, as shown. The shuttle g, which, as it
traverses the race r, is of the same curve on both sides, so that the ends of the
roof are pointed, and coincide with the curve of the larger radius; it is formed
with channels cut on either side, which receive the edges of plates s, s; these
retain it in proper position. The shuttle race is struck from a centre t, at
which point the lever is pivoted, this lever being provided with two fingers
v, v, which embrace the shuttle, and, by the motion imparted to the lever u,
propel the shuttle as required. On the shaft, p, a cam w is fixed, having a
groove cut therein for the reception of a pin x projecting on the under side of
the lever u, the cam groove being so cut as to throw the shuttle at the proper
times. The motion of the lever u also imparts the feed to the cloth under
operation, which is placed under the bar y; this bar is fixed at one end, the
other having a sufficient pressure on the teeth of the bar a', for the purpose
of feeding the cloth. The bar y having no motion, is smooth on the under
side, to allow the cloth to slip freely from under it; it is also provided with a
hole for the passage of the
To the back end of bar a', which is bent
at right angles, a bent plate is affixed, the ends of which plate is opposed to
the horns or projections c¹, c¹, of the lever u, which, at each oscillation, take
effect upon either end of the plate ', producing a sliding motion of the bar a,
in the backward direction; the return of the plate 6' is effected by the spring d
pressing it close up to the horns c', c. In varying the movement of the cloth,
and consequently the length of stitch, a stop to regulate or limit the return of
needle.

page_text: the spring may be applied, as described in machine No. 2. This sliding
motion of the bar a¹ causes a fresh hold of the cloth to be taken by the teeth
at each backward movement, the slack, or--that part of the cloth which has
been sewn, being taken up by the pall e', which acts as a claw or foot at each
movement of the arm f. The needle thread is carried by a bobbin f', which
is free to revolve on its spindle. This thread in passing to the needle proceeds
through some elastic substance at g', to ensure the necessary tension on the
thread, as before explained with reference to machine No. 3, or the same may
be effected by a similar arrangement of springs there described. This thread
is passed at the eye of the needle on the outer or front side, and is secured to
the cloth as usual. The shuttle thread shewn blue is carried by a spool or
bobbin' h', passes through an aperture in the side of the shuttle, the friction on
the whole of which gives the necessary tension to that thread. The action of
this machine is this:-The needle e, at each oscillation of its carrier, is passed
down through hole in the bar y, and also through the cloth underneath to
the position indicated by dotted lines in Figure 27, at which time the red
thread will be in the form of a loop, one side of which passes from the inner
side of the needle eye, and the other from the outside; the shuttle in its passage
will split or pass through such loop, passing its thread (which is. previously
fastened to the cloth) between the inside part of the loop and the cloth, which,
on the withdrawal of the needle, will retain the loop, and with the thread
introduced by the shuttle forming the stitch required. This part of the loop,
during the passage of the shuttle, is received in some one of the notches in the
plate s, the opposite, plate having a like notch cut in the other plate s¹ for the
passage of the needle. In order to insure the correct entrance of the shuttle
to the loop, the thread at the point k' may be introduced through a second eye,
which will so deviate its course to the point gl as to prevent the possibility of
being taken hold of by the shuttle; this, however, is not necessary if the
apparatus is accurate in its construction. The machine is arranged so that
a stitch will be effected at each passage of the shuttle, the gearing n, o, and
cam w being so arranged that the movements they produce coincide in effecting
This machine, which is exhibited in Sheet G, effects a similar stitch to the
machine No. 1, but is applicable for finer descriptions of work, the arrange-
ments permitting the use of a finer needle, which it sustained throughout its
whole length. Figure 30 represents a side elevation of this machine, arranged
according to my Invention; Figure 31, a plan; Figure 32, a vertical longi-

page_text: tudinal section; Figure 33, a traversers section on the line a, b; Figure 34,
an end view; and Figure 35, a view of a full size needle as adapted for sewing
or uniting the gores of umbrellas or seams of a like length. It consists of a bar
e, e, which is formed in two halves, as seen in the cross section; these are
united by screws f,f, so as to secure the same firmly together; on one end of
the bar e, e, teeth g, g, are formed like a rack, which occupy half the length of
the bar e, the other half having a plain surface. Into the rack teeth a wheel h
gears, having teeth of equal pitch, the spindle of which is mounted in the
bracket bearing i, by which it is sustained in position, motion being communi-
cated thereto by the winch handle k. In the teeth of this wheel h, notches
are cut, and is in every respect like the wheel a of machine No. 1. In
position corresponding with the notches or groove of the wheel h, where in gear'
with the rack 9.9, holes are pierced through the teeth forming a channel l,
through the whole of which channel is also continued thro' plain part of the
bar e; the object in forming the bare in two pieces being to produce this
channel 7 sufficiently true, and which is planed out, the other parts being also
similarly treated, by which the whole is brought truly together. The bar
e, e, is fitted to the bed m, m, so as to traverse its length; the parallel-.
ism is maintained by a rib n, n, on which the bar e is fitted; this bed m, m, is.
once and a half the length of the bar rack, the movement of the rack bar
being only equal to half its length. The needle o is placed within the channel
1, with the point towards the wheel, and is sustained in its position by means of
the holder p, which clips the needle at its back, and this holder p enters the
channel by a narrow slit in the top of the bar e, running throughout its entire
length, the holder being sufficiently thin at the point of entrance as not to
interfere with the movement of the rack bar. The needle holder is fixed in
its bracket by a set screw 7, and the bracket is also adjustible in its distance
from the wheel h, by the slots in the bed. A roller t is placed immediately
below the wheel, for the support of the bar and at that point, so as to reduce*
the friction consequent on the pressure of the wheel. The action is this: the
rack bar e is first thrown to the extreme left by the motion of the wheel; this
is then reversed, and the cloth to be sewn is introduced between the teeth of
the rack and wheel on the left side of wheel h. The cloth will thus be
formed into a series of doubles or undulations, and the point of the needle
being situated directly under the centre of the wheel, the cloth so doubled will
be forced on to the needle, which is continued the whole length of the teeth ƒ,f,
or length of the seam, when the point of the needle emerges from the cloth (the
whole being at the time on the stem), a thread is introduced to the which,
it will be observed, is laterally pieced, so that the threading may-be easily
I
eye,

page_text: effected. The motion of the wheel is now reversed, and the cloth is drawn
from off the needle having the thread introduced, which is then fastened at
either-end. The same operation is then repeated with another length of seam.
It will be observed that this machine is only calculated for short seams, as the
whole must be received at one time in the rack and on the needle, and, as
before stated, applicable for uniting the gores of umbrellas, the stitches
depending on the fineness of the teeth in the wheel and rack. It will be
understood that the needle being enclosed in the channel 1, the want of rigidity
in the needle is counteracted by such enclosure, and by which it is enabled to
sustain the said thrust consequent on its passage through the cloth,—
Having described the nature of my Invention, and the manner in which it
is performed, I would have it understood that what I claim,-
First, with respect to machine No. 1, the combining mechanical parts
into a machine, whereby I am enabled to employ a straight needle in com-,
bination with the leaves of wheels for the purpose of sewing, as described and
shewn in Sheet A of the Drawing annexed.
Secondly, with respect to the machine No. 2, I claim the arrangement of
apparatus or machinery represented in Figs: 1, 2, 3, and 4, Sheets B and C,
whereby to perform sewing or embroidering by means of a needle and hooked
instrument as described. I also claim measuring and delivering out the thread'
for sewing or embroidering by machinery as the stitches progress, whether by
the means described, or any mechanical equivalent, and also producing the
requisite tension on the thread by a weight, as described.
Thirdly, I claim the arrangement and combination of a needle and the
instrument n', represented in Figs. 12, 13, 14, 15, and 16, acting in concert, as
described, for the purposes of sewing or embroidering, whether the same be
actuated by the machine No. 2, or by any mechanical equivalent.
Fourthly, with respect to machine No. 3, I claim arranging the shuttle
which carries the filling thread so that it shall revolve horizontally in a circular
shuttle race, the shuttle being constructed with a curved front and pointed
nose, which travels in a circular guiding groove sunk below the bottom of the
said race, in order to effect the correct passage of the shuttle through the loop,
substantially as herein set forth.
I also claim the pad or washer a¹, under the centre of spring arms, which
propel the shuttle for keeping the filling thread out straight; also the arrange-
ment of the spring c¹, and bent lever spring f, f', operating as described,
or any mechanical equivalent for releasing the needle thread when the loop
is to be formed, and holding it rigidly when it is to be tightened, as described.
I also claim the use of converging nipper springs ki, ki, through which the.

page_text: needle passes, to keep the thread up and prevent the needle splitting or
becoming entangled therewith.
In respect of machine No. 4, I claim imparting a reciprocating motion to a
shuttle suspended in a segmental race, acting in concert with a curved needle,
actuated as described. I also claim the method of supporting the shuttle by
plates s, s', and the notches cut therein for the support of the needle and
thread during the passage of the said shuttle, together with the modes
described of feeding and taking away the cloth.
Lastly, I claim, in respect of machine No. 5, combining the leaves or teeth
of a wheel, with a rack bar e, e, having a channel for the reception of the
needle, whereby I am enabled to obtain support for the needle throughout its
entire length during the operation of perforating and sewing the cloth.
In witness whereof, I, the said Charles Morey, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, the Twenty-eighth day of February, in the year of our
T