MENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR MAKING BUTTON-HOLES,
Year: 1881

page_text: "
LETTERS PATENT to Arthur Helwig and James Dewdney, both of Great
IMPROVE-
Winchester Street, in the City of London, for an Invention of
MENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR MAKING BUTTON-HOLES, IN PART
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Arthur Helwig and James
Dewdney at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 15th December
1881.
ARTHUR HELWIG and JAMES DEWDNEY both of Great Winchester Street in the
City of London. "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR MAKING
BUTTON HOLES IN PART APPLICABLE TO OTHER PURPOSES."
In a machine or apparatus for making button holes according to our Invention
we provide a permanently attached die and a cutter block for piercing or dividing
the fabric to form the pear ended hole or slit which when surrounded by stitching
constitutes the button hole. The die, which we prefer to make as long as the
longest button hole that is likely to be required, usually stands with its cutting
edge or edges slightly below the table or working face of the machine; it can be
forced upwards into and through the cloth when required by a lever or cam or
other suitable mechanism.
The block against which it cuts is carried by an arm or lever or other suitable
appliance and is so arranged that when not required it can be removed or turned
out of the way.
Various lengths of blocks are employed according to the length
of button hole required, as the die will only pierce that part of the fabric that is
supported by the block. The upward pressure of the die, when in the act of
cutting is resisted by a catch or clip or stop which is made to temporarily engage
with the arm or lever which carries the block.
The sewing mechanism that we prefer to employ comprises a reciprocating
needle and a revolving hook; but our Invention is applicable to other forms of
sawing mechanism.

page_text: The needle has, as is usual in button hole sewing machines in addition to its
up and down motion a swinging or side to side motion, so that it forms two parallel
lines of stitches one in the cloth and the other in the slit of the button hole passing
alternately through the slit and the cloth throwing the pearl on the inner edge of
the button hole. To the revolving hook or to the equivalent mechanism which
engages the loop of thread formed below the fabric, we also give an endwise motion
which places the hook in the proper position to receive the thread from the needle
whether it descends through the slit or through the fabric.
The two motions, viz., the side to side motion of the needle bar and the end wise
motion of the rotating hook may be conveniently derived from two cams on a
vertical shaft; the upper one acts on a bowl at the end of a rod in connection with
the slide of the needle bar, and the lower one on a bowl running on an arm or
stud attached to a sleeve retained between collars on the hook shaft. In each case
the cam forces the bowl in one direction only, the return motion being effected by
a spring and limited by an adjustable stop. In one position of the stops, the
return motion, and consequently also the forward notion, is entirely prevented and
the sewing mechanism acts as in an ordinary machine.
In some cases we provide an ordinary feed motion to enable the machine, when
not required for button holeing to be used for other purposes.
For automatic button hole sewing the cloth is placed in a clip such as has been
-already-described-in-the-Specification-of-Letters Patent No.-13.dated January 3rd,
1871 granted to one of us, viz., to A. Helwig. This clip has a slot in it of the
form of a button hole, and holds the fabric securely round the lines of stitching.
This clip and consequently the cloth held by it is moved and guided as follows;-
Upon the face plate or table of the machine and immediately under the needle
there is a stud or projection, pierced with a slot for the passage of the needle.
This projection is of peculiar form and constitutes a fixed guide which is embraced
by a slot in the lower side or plate of the abovementioned clip. On the under
side of the clip there is also a stud or projection which engages in a slot of special
form cut in the plate or table of the machine. This slot consists principally of two
straight portions and a curved portion, so arranged with relation to the above
mentioned slot and two studs or projections that if the clip be impelled from the
operator it will first travel along a straight line, then commence to rotate in a
circular or nearly circular arc around a point in the centre of the pear shaped end
of the button hole, and finally, after having turned end for end, will proceed in a
straight line in the same direction in which it started. The effect of this motion
of the clip is to carry the fabric first along a straight line corresponding to one
side of the button hole, then in a circular or pear shaped curve corresponding to
the end of the button hole and finally along another straight line parallel to the
first and corresponding to the other side of the button hole.
By varying the form of configuration of the guiding slots and the disposition of
the studs the stitching can be made to describe other forins than those of the
ordinary button hole.
The impelling power may be conveniently applied to the clip through the above
mentioned stud or projection fixed in the clip. This stud projects through the
slot in the plate or table and engages with a can or with a strap or its equivalent
surrounding an eccentric or lying in an eccentric groove placed horizontally below
the said plate or table. This eccentric is driven by a pawl and ratchet wheel
at varying speeds depending on the number of teeth the pawl moves over at each
stroke. The movement of the pawl in the forward or acting direction is caused by
a cam on the hook shaft, while its backward motion results from a spring and is
limited by a stop. The position of the stop is regulated by a cam on the back of
the eccentric acting through a lever or other suitable mechanism. It is necessary
that the speed of the feed, that is the stroke or throw of the pawl should be varied
to compensate for the varying angle of the eccentric with relation to the path of
the stud on which it acts.
Under certain arrangements it is possible that the path of the stud on the clip

page_text: may be parallel or tangential to a circle struck from the centre around which the
eccentric revolves. Under such circumstances we use an eccentric strap that also
acts as a friction ring or coupling and obtains sufficient hold on the eccentric to
impel or drive the clip when the eccentricity of the eccentric is not available for
the purpose. We find that a ring divided and sprung into its place forms a
satisfactory arrangement for this purpose.
In operation the fabric is first secured in the clip in the required position for the
button hole and is placed over the die. The block is then fixed in position over it
and the die raised by a lever to cut out the pear shaped ended slit. After the
block has been removed the eccentric is rotated by hand and the clip and the fabric
carried forward until the pointod end of the slit is just under the needle. The
machine is then driven in the ordinary way the needle passing alternately through
the slit and through the cloth a little distance (equal to the width of the stitching)
from the slit. A bar thread passing through a hole in the needle plate is caught
or included by the upper thread. When the lines of stitching have reached the
commencement of the pear shaped portion of the button hole, the clip, under the
guidance of the before mentioned peculiarly formed slot in the plate or table com-
mences to rotate in a circular or other shaped curve until it has turned end for
end, and then it proceeds in a straight line."
In consequence of the rotation of the clip and fabric the second straight line of
stitching returns parallel to the first. The clip is brought to its first position by
the eccentric being rotated by hand, the stud or projection on the clip traversing a
special return groove provided for the purpose.
It will be obvious that the details of the machine may be considerably varied
without departure from the principles of our Invention.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed
by the said Arthur Helwig and James Dewdney in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 15th June 1882.
ARTHUR HELWIG and JAMES DEWDNEY, both of Great Winchester Street, in the
City of London. "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR MAKING
BUTTON HOLES IN PART APPLICABLE TO OTHER PURPOSES."
In a machine or apparatus for making button holes according to our Invention
we provide a permanently attached die and a cutter block for piercing or dividing
the fabric to form the pear ended hole or slit which when surrounded by stitching
constitutes the button hole. The die, which we prefer to make as long as the
longest button hole that is likely to be required, usually stands with its cutting
edge or edges slightly below the table or working face of the machine; it can be
forced upwards into and through the cloth when required by a lever or cam or
other suitablo mechanism. The block against which it cuts is carried by an arm
or lever or other suitable_appliance_and_is_so_arranged that when not required it
can be removed or turned out of the way. Various lengths of blocks are employed
according to the length of button hole required, as the die will only pierce that part
of the fabric that is supported by the block. The upward pressure of the die, when
in the act of cutting is resisted by a catch or clip or stop which is made to
temporarily engage with the arm or lever which carries the block.
Referring to the accompanying Sheet of Drawings Fig. 1 is a longitudinal soction
shewing so much of a machine arranged for making button holes as is necessary
to illustrate our Invention.
Fig. 2 is a plan of the same.
Fig. 3 a section in line a b of Fig. 1.
Fig. 4 is a plan shewing the mechanism for propelling the clip or holder which
carries the material to be operated on.
A is the dic, comprising a straight part or blade and a circular end; it usually
stands with its cutting edge below the level of the table, but it can be forced
upwards through the cloth when required by the cam lever B. The block C
against which it cuts is carried by the arm D, and can be removed or turned out
of the way when not in use. This arm is held against the pressure of the die by
the catch or clip E during the act of cutting.
The sewing mechanism that we prefer to employ comprises a reciprocating
needle and a revolving hook; but our Invention is applicable to other forms of
sewing mechanism.
The needle has, as is usual in button hole sewing machines in addition to its up
and down motion a swinging or side to side motion, so that it forms two parallel
lines of stitches one in the cloth and the other in the slit of the button hole passing
alternately through the slit and the cloth throwing the pearl on the inner edge of
the button hole. To the revolving hook or to the equivalent mechanism which
engages the loop of thread formed below the fabric we also give an end wise motion
which places the hook in the proper position to receive the thread from the needle
whether it descends through tho slit or through the fabric. The two motions, viz.,
the side to side motion of the needle bar F and the end wise motion of the rotating
hook G may be conveniently derived from two cams on a vertical shaft; the upper
one H acts on a bowl at the end of a rod in connection with the slide of the needle
bar, and the lower one H on a bowl I running on an arm or stud J attached to a
sleeve K retained between collars on the hook shaft L. In each case the cam
forces the bowl in one direction only, the return motion being effected by a spring
and limited by an adjustable stop. L' is the stop for the loop shaft; the slots for

page_text: the needle slide is not shewn. In one position of the stops, the return motion, and
consequently also the forward motion, is entirely prevented and the sewing
mechanism acts as in an ordinary machine.
In some cases we provide an ordinary feed motion to enable the machine, when
not required for button holeing to be used for other purposes.
For automatic button hole sewing the cloth is placed in a clip N such as has
been already described in the Specification of Letters Patent No. 13 dated
January 3rd, 1871, granted to one of us, viz., A. Helwig. This clip has a slot O in
it of the form of a button hole, and holds the fabric securely round the lines of
stitching. This clip and consequently the cloth held by it is moved and guided as
follows; Upon the face plate or table M of the machine and immediately under
the needle there is a stud or projection Q, pierced with a slot for the passage of the
needle. This projection constitutes a fixed guide or pivot which is embraced by a
slot R in the lower side or plate of the above mentioned clip. Q' is a roller on the
plate or table; it bears against the edge of the clip and assists in guiding it
especially at the time when the pear shaped portion of the button hole is being
sewed. On the under side of the clip there is also a stud or projection R¹ which
engages in a slot R2 of special form cut in the plate or table of the machine. This
slot consists as shewn principally of two straight portions and a curved portion, so
arranged with relation to the above mentioned slot R and two studs or projections
Qand R that if the clip be impelled from the operator it will first travel along a
straight line, then commence to rotate in a circular or nearly circular arc around a
point in the centre of the pear shaped end of the button hole, and finally, after
having turned end for end, will proceed in a straight line in the same direction in
which it started. The effect of this motion of the clip is to carry the fabric first
along a straight line corresponding to one side of the button hole, then in a circular
or pear shaped curve corresponding to the end of the button hole and finally along
another straight line parallel to the first and corresponding to the other side of the
button hole.
By varying the form or configuration of the guiding slots and the disposition of
the studs the stitching can be made to describe other forms than those of the
ordinary button hole.
The impelling power may be conveniently applied to the clip through the above
mentioned stud or projection R¹ fixed in the clip.
This stud projects through the slot P2 in the plate or table and engages with a
cam or with a strap S or its equivalent surrounding an eccentric S' or lying in an
eccentric groove placed horizontally below the said plate or table. This eccentric
S¹ is driven by a pawl T and ratchet wheel T at varying speeds depending on the
number of teeth the pawl moves over at each stroke. The movement of the pawl
in the forward or acting direction is caused by a cam U on the hook shaft, while
its backward motion results from a spring U₁ and is limited by a stop U. The
position of the stop is regulated by a cam U³ on the back of the eccentric acting
through a lever V or other suitable mechanism. It is necessary that the speed of
the feed, that is the stroke or throw of the pawl should be varied to compensate
for the varying angle of the eccentric with relation to the path of the stud on which
it acts.
Under certain arrangements it is possible that the path of the said stud R¹ on the
clip may be parallel or tangential to a circle struck from the centre around which the
eccentric revolves. Under such circumstances we use an eccentric strap that also
acts as a friction ring or coupling and obtains sufficient hold on the eccentric to
impel or drive the clip when the eccentricity of the eccentric is not available for
the purpose. We find that a ring S divided and sprung into its place as shown in
Fig. 4 forms a satisfactory arrangement for this purpose.
In operation the fabric is first secured in the clip in the required position for the
button hole and is placed over the die A. The block C is then fixed in position
over it and the die raised by the lever B to cut out the pear shaped ended slit.
After the block has been removed the eccentric is rotated by hand by means of

page_text: the handle a connected to the slide carrying the pawl and the clip and the fabric
carried forward until the pointed end of the slit is just under the needle. The
machine is then driven in the ordinary way the needle passing alternately through
the slit and through the cloth a little distance. As the thread passing through a
hole in the plate is caught or included by the upper thread (equal to the width of
the stitching) from the slit a bar thread passing through a hole in the needle plate
is caught or included by the upper thread. When the lines of stitching have
reached the commencement of the pear shaped portion of the button hole, the clip,
under the guidance of the before mentioned peculiarly formed slot R2 in the plate
or table commences to rotate in a circular or other shaped curve until it has turned
end for end, and then it proceeds in a straight line.
In consequence of the rotation of the clip and fabric the second straight line of
stitching returns parallel to the first. The clip is brought to its first position by
the eccentric being rotated by hand, the stud or projection on the clip traversing a
special return groove W provided for the purpose.
It will be obvious that the details of the machine may be considerably varied
without departure from the principles of our Invention.
Having thus described the nature of the said Invention and the manner in which
it is to be performed we would have it understood that what we consider to be
novel and original and therefore claim as secured to us under the Letters Patent
_ herein before in part recited is:-
1. In a machine for making button holes the use in combination of a die or
cutter and cutter block for cutting the hole, sewing mechanism for sewing the edges
of the hole, and a travelling clip or holder that holds the material during the
cutting and sewing operations substantially as described.
2. In a machine for making button holes the use in combination for guiding the
clip or holder that holds and carries the material to be operated upon of a central
stud or pivot through which the sewing needle passes and about which the clip or
holder turns a stud or projection on the clip or holder and a guiding slot such as
hereinabove described in the face plate or table of the machine substantially as
hereinabove set forth.
3. In a machine for making button holes working the clip or holder that carries
the material to be operated upon by means of a cam or eccentric whose axis of
rotation is coincident with the axis of the sewing needle substantially as described.
4. In a sewing machine the application and use of the combined mechanism
constructed, arranged and operating as hereinabove described and shewn in the
Drawings whereby such machine is rendered suitable for making button holes.
5. In a sewing machine the method substantially as described above of ensuring
accord of the hook or looper with the needle by causing the shaft that carries the
hook or looper besides rotating to also move endwise in agreement with the
swinging or side to side, movement of the needle, as above set forth.
In witness whereof I the said Arthur Helwig have hereunto set my hand
and seal this Fifteenth day of June in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and eighty two.