Improvements in the Manufacture and Treatment of Figured Woven Fabrics, whereby is Produced a Brocaded Plush or Figured Fleecy Surface.
Year: 1885

page_text: Improvements in the Manufacture and Treatment of Figured
Woven Fabrics, whereby is Produced a Brocaded Plush or
Figured Fleecy Surface.
: 3
I, JAMES EDELSTON, of Preston, Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of
my invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE AND TREATMENT OF
FIGURED WOVEN FABRICS, WHEREBY IS PRODUCED A BROCADED PLUSH, OR
FIGURED FLEECY SURFACE "
to be as follows:-
The object of the improvements is to produce upon figured woven fabrics, more
particularly upon cotton goods having a brocaded pattern woven therein, a pile,
plush, or fleecy surface, in so far only as such pattern is concerned. That is to say,
a brocaded plush or figured fleecy surface is given to the pattern of the fabric.
To accomplish this and to effect my improvements, I employ in the weaving of
the cloth either a jacquard or dobby or other pattern motion to actuate the healds,
in such manner that the pattern is produced by floating the weft on the surface of
the cloth, by preference in somewhat uniform lengths of floated weft. The pattern
may be composed of stripes, spots, geometrical figures, or of general design, and
may be interspersed with plain, twill, or other woven ground.
The cloth so produced is then subjected, either as a separate process or combined
with the weaving in the loom, and before or after dyeing or bleaching, to the
operation known as "perching," in such manner that the "card" of the perching
machinery is so set that the same will take hold of, and raise the fleece upon, those
portions of the fabric which consist of the floated weft, but will leave the ground-
work of the cloth-which lies at a slightly lower level-free from the operation
entirely. By which means, a raised, or fleecy, or plushed result is produced on the
pattern or floated weft portions of the cloth only, which gives somewhat the
appearance of brocaded plush or velvet, or other brocaded fleecy effect, according
to the extent to which the " perching" operation is continued, which may be
accomplished by any suitable form of perching, teazleing, or scratching, or tearing
apparatus.
;
. The goods so manufactured and treated may be afterwards sheared or finished.
in any suitable manner.

page_text: Improvements in the Manufacture and Treatment. of Figured
Woven Fabrics, whereby is Produced a Brocaded Plush or
Figured Fleecy Surface.
I, JAMES EDELSTON, of Preston, Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of
my invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE AND TREATMENT OF
FIGURED WOVEN FABRICS, WHEREBY IS PRODUCED A BROCADED PLUSH, OR
FIGURED FLEECY SURFACE," and in what manner the same is to be performed, to
be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
The object of the improvements is to produce upon figured woven fabrics, more
particularly upon cotton goods having a brocaded pattern woven therein, a pile,
plush, or fleecy surface, in so far only as such pattern is concerned. That is to Bay,
a brocaded plush or figured fleecy surface is given to the pattern of the fabric.
To accomplish this and to effect my improvements, I employ in the weaving of
the cloth either a jacquard or dobby or other pattern motion to actuate the healds,
in such manner that the pattern is produced by floating the weft on the surface of
the cloth, by preference in somewhat uniform lengths of floated weft. The pattern
may be composed of stripes, spots, geometrical figures, or of general design, and
may be interspersed with plain, twill, or other woven ground..
"
The cloth so produced is then subjected, either as a separate process, or combined
with the weaving in the loom, and before or after dyeing or bleaching, to the
operation known as perching," in such manner that the "card" of the perching
machinery is so set that the same will take hold of, and raise the fleece upon those
portions of the fabric which consist of the floated weft, but will leave the ground-
work of the cloth-which lies at a slightly lower level-free from the operation
entirely. By which means, a raised, or fleecy, or plushed result is produced on the
pattern or floated weft portions of the cloth only, which gives somewhat the
appearance of brocaded plush, or velvet, or other brocaded fleecy effect, according
to the extent to which the "perching" operation is continued, which may be
accomplished by any suitable form of perching, teazleing, or scratching, or tearing
apparatus.
The goods so manufactured and treated may be afterwards sheared or finished in
any suitable manner.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is :-
1. The subjecting of fabrics, woven with a design of floated weft, to the
operation known as 'perching," in such manner that the perching "card,” or
"

page_text: substitute therefor, is set to operate on such floated weft forming the pattern, and
not on the groundwork of the fabric, for the purpose of producing a brocaded
plush or brocaded fleecy effect upon such design portion of the fabric, substantially
as described.
2. The producing of a brocaded plush or fleecy effect upon the pattern of woven
fabrics, by the means and in manner substantially as described.
11 L
1
T1 1000
WILLIAM GADD, C.E.,
Agent.