Improvements in the Mode and Means for Setting Out Dresses, Jackets, and the like.
Year: 1899

page_text: .
Date of Application, 18th Aug., 1899
Complete Specification Loft 21st Mar 1900-Accented 5th May 1900
•
Date of Application, 18th Aug., 1899
Complete Specification Loft, 21st Mar, 1900-Accepted, 5th May 1900
$
DIONAL DICITIATION
Improvements in the Mode and Means for Setting Out Dresses,
Jackets, and the like.
I, EDMUND GEORGE KENDALL, of Ethelbert, York Road, Southend-on-Sea, in
the County of Essex, Architect, do hereby declare the nature of.my said invention
to be as follows:-
'
My invention has for its object improvements in the mode and means for setting
out dresses, jackets, and the like so as to obtain a greater accuracy of fit with a
minimum amount of trouble to the cutter and is a further improvement upon my
prior Patent No. 11,413 of 1898.
In carrying my invention into practice I employ two charts or scales made
from cardboard or other suitable material. One of these charts or scales contains
an example of the leading measurements required to commence with and also
a number of scales or calculations from which the various measurements required
when cutting out certain parts of a dress or jacket or the like can be obtained in
a simple and easy manner. The other chart or scale also contains a number of
scales or calculations and in addition, is formed with certain curves and lines
from which when traced upon paper the various shapes or patterns are cut-such
for instance as the curve for the sleeves, collar or the like.
Dated this 17th day of Anoust 1800
"
EDMUND GEORGE KENDALL.
By George Barker,
Fellow of the Chartered Institute of Patent Agents,
Agent for Applicant, 77, Colmore Row, Birmingham.
Improvements in the Mode and Means for Setting Out Dresses,
Jackets, and the like.
I, EDMUND GEORGE KENDALL, of Ethelbert, York Road, Southend-on-Sea, in
the County of Essex, Architect, do hereby declare the nature of my said invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly described
and ascertained in and by the following statement:—
My invention has for its object improvements in the mode and means for setting
out dresses, jackets and the like so as to obtain a greater accuracy of fit with a
minimum amount of trouble to the cutter and is a further improvement upon my
prior Patent No. 11,413 of 1898.
In carrying my invention into practice I employ two charts or scales made

page_text: from cardboard or other suitable material. One of these charts or scales contains
an example of the leading measurements required to commence with and also
a number of scales or calculations from which the various measurements required
when cutting out certain parts of a dress or jacket or the like can be obtained in
a simple and easy manner. The other chart or scale also contains a number of
scales or calculations, and in addition is formed with certain curves and lines
rom which when traced upon paper the various shapes or patterns are cut-such
for instance as the curve for the sleeves, collar or the like.
In order that my invention may be more clearly understood and easily carried
into practical effect I have appended hereunto three sheets of drawings upon
which I have illustrated examples of the mode I pursue in cutting out dress
patterns.
Figure 1 is a plan view of the scale or chart A, used when cutting out the collar
and for obtaining the curves required when cutting out the bodice etc.
Figure 2 is a plan view of the scale or chart B for obtaining the various
measurements for the bodice and skirt etc.
Figures 34 & 5 are diagram views of the bodice or like patterns.
In carrying my invention into practice I form my charts or scales A and B
from cardboard or other suitable material. The chart or curve scale A is used
for forming the collar and for obtaining the various curves required when cutting
out the bodice or the like. The curved edge of this chart from 1 to E is used
when cutting out the darts, the curves for the hips and the back and front arms
eye curves of the bodice and also for the collar bottom curves. The portion from
to G is for forming the top curve of the collar and the intersecting lines are
provided for forming collar patterns of various widths and lengths. The scale
marked H is for obtaining the curve and sizes for the front portion of the neck
and the scale marked I is for obtaining the various measurements required when
cutting out that portion of the pattern for forming the back of the waist. The
scale marked J is for obtaining the measurements of the front portion of the waist
when single sides are used and the scale marked K is for obtaining the measure-
ments when double sides are used. The dividing scales marked L are used as
an easy way of obtaining the exact sizes of the darts as clearly described in my
Prior Patent No. 11,413 of 1898. The scale marked M is an ordinary inch scale
provided as a convenience for obtaining various measurements.
The chart or scale marked B as shewn at Figure 2 is provided at the left hand
upper corner with the scale N giving an example of the leading measurements
required to commence with. The scale marked on the same chart gives the
various measurements required for that portion of the pattern for the back of the
neck. The scale Q gives various measurements for the front of the neck and
the scales R and S give the measurements required for the back and front bust.
The scale T gives the measurements required for the front length of the bodice
and the other scales on this chart are ordinary inch scales for various measure-
ments. The portions cross sectioned on both charts A and B indicate slots formed
in the charts to enable the 'required measurements on the various scales to be
marked through on to the pattern.
"
For example to cut the back drafting" or back portion of the pattern for a
bodice jacket or the like as shewn in Figure 3 place the outer long edge of the
scale B at the edge of the paper and draw a line along the inside of the short and
long edge and number it 1 and 1*. Before moving the scale dot at the back neck
arrow band number the dot 2 then select the back neck measurements required
from the scale O and make a dot at this point on line 13 and number it 3. Now
dot at the back shoulder arrow 62 on the line 1 and number it 4, also dot on the
same line the size of the back length required from the scale of inches on the
inner long edge of the chart and number it 5. Measure up the line 1 from the
dot 5 by means of one of the scales of inches V or W the length of the under arm
measurement required and number it 6. Place the short arm of the scale B on
the line 1, the corner 63 touching the dot 4 and draw a straight line across the

page_text: paper number it 7 and also mark it "shoulder line." In a like manner draw a
line from dot 6 across the paper and mark it "bust line" then place the back bust
arrow 6 at dot 6 and dot on the "bust line" the size of the back bust required from
the scale R and number it 8. Now take the chart or curve scale A and place the
corner at at dot 3 the arrow a touching the line 7 then draw a line from a half
an inch longer than the shoulder measure required, make a dot and number it 9.
Reverse the curve scale A then place the corner a' at dot 9 and draw a line three
inches long from dot 9 at equal distances or parallel with line 7 and number it 10.
Place the curve scale A with the arrow a³ in the slot of the scale H pointing at
number 2 and draw a line from 2 to 3. Now place one of the arrows at at dot 5
but be careful that the edge at this particular side of the curve scale is level with
line 1, then make a dot through one of the holes a and through the slot a at
the particular waist size required on the first, second and third divisions of scale I,
number these dots 11, 12, 13 and 14 respectively and draw lines from 11 to 12
and 13 to 14 marking them waist line. Now draw a line from 14 passing through
8 about two inches above it and number this line 15. Place the curved edge D) E
of the chart so that the arrow as touches the top of the line 15, make a dot and
number it 16, also make another dot between 16 and 8 and number it 17. Then
move down this curved edge of the chart to dot 17 and draw a curve line halfway
between dots 17 and 10 and number the point where this line ends 18. Now
place corner a of this chart at dot 18 keeping the long edge of the chart even or
parallel with the "bust line" and draw a line to arrow as numbering the end of
this line 19. Next place arrow a at dot 9 and draw a curve line down to 19, then
invert the scale and place the point of the curved edge D E where the arrow a
is marked at dot 12 and draw a curve line to 19. In the same manner draw a curve
line from dot 13 to 18. Aferwards take the chart or scale B placing Figure 7 of
the scale on the outer edge of the short arm on dot 5 and extend the line to the
corner Make a dot and number it 20, then before moving this chart draw a
line from 20, across the paper and number this line 21. Now draw lines from 20
to 11 and from 11 to 2. Next place corner 65 of the same scale at dot 2, long
edge of the scale toching dot 12, and draw a line from dot 12 to line 21. After-
wards place the same corner 65 at dot 9 long edge of the scale touching dot 13
and draw a line from dot 13 to line 21. Keep corner bat dot 9 and move the
scale so that the long edge touches dot 14 then make a dot on line 21 wherever
this edge of the scale touches and number it 22. Lastly place the arrow a² on
curve scale A so as to point opposite dot 22 and draw a curve line from dot 22 to
14 when this portion of the pattern is complete.
".
To cut the front drafting" or front portion of the pattern for a bodice, jacket
or the like as shewn at Figure 4 place the outer long edge of chart or scale B
at the edge of the paper and draw lines 1 and 1ª along the inner short and long.
edges. Before moving this chart dot at front shoulder arrow 66 and number
it 2, then dot at the front neck proportions required on scale Q and number at 3.
Now from dot 2 measure down line one half the arms eye measuring and number
it 4, and from dot 4 measure down line 1 the under arm length required and
number it 5. Place corner 63 at dot 5 keeping the short arm of the scale or chart
even with line 1 and draw a line across the paper and mark it "waist line." In
the same manner from dot 4 draw another line across the paper and mark it
"bust line," and likewise from dot 2 draw another line across the paper and
mark it shoulder line." Now take chart or curve scale A and place arrow a³
at dot 3 moving the curved edge of scale H until the required neck size on this
scale touches line 1ª and draw a line from dot 3 to the neck size. Make a dot
and number it 6. Then place corner a¹ at dot 6 allowing arrow a² to touch the
"shoulder line" and draw a line from a¹ the exact length of the shoulder measure
required and number the end of this line 7. Change the charts or scales again
and place the front bust arrow bi on chart or scale B at dot 4 and dot on the "bust
line" the particular size of bust required from the scale S and mark it 8. Then
place the short arm of this scale even with or resting upon the "waist line" the
"

page_text: "
61
outer edge of the long arm touching dot 8, make a dot at corner 63 and number it 9
and draw a line upwards the same length as line 15 marked on the diagram
Figure 3. Make a dot and number it 10. Then take chart or curve scale A
and place corner a at dot S and dot on bust line" a quarter of an inch in ad-
vance of the particular waist size required which is obtained from scale J.
Number this dot 11. Move the scale along "bust line" until corner a is on
dot 11 then make a dot on this "bust line" at arrow and number it 12. Change
the charts or scales again and place the long edge of chart or scale B at dot 7
the short arm of scale B resting upon the "bust line" then dot through the centre
of the star 68 and number it 13. Now let the edge of front arms eye curve"
on the curved edge D,E of chart or curve scale A touch dots 7 13 and 12 and draw
a line along this curved edge passing through each of these dots. Continue the
curve from 11 to 10. Place the corner a of the same chart or curve scale at
dot 9 keeping that, edge even with the waist line" and dot on this line the
particular waist size required and number it 14. Move the scale or chart further
along until the corner a is opposite dot 14 the dot on the waist line at
arrow and number it 15. Now draw lines from 15 to 12 and from 14 to 11.
Take the scale or chart B'and place that division line or arrow marked on scale T
corresponding to the particular neck size required at dot 6, the long edge of the
scale touching line 1, at the particular front length size required and number
it 16, then draw a line from 16 to 15. Now place arrow a on chart or curve
scale A at dot 16 this edge of the scale resting upon the line from 16 to 15 and
make a dot on this line at arrow and number it 17. Next place corner a at
dot 15 and mark on line 15 to 16 the particular waist size required from scale J
and number it 18, then let equal numbers of the dividing scales L rest on dots 17
and 18 and make a dot at each of the arrows 2 and 3 and number them 19 and
20. Now make a dot centrally between 17 and 19 and 20 and 18, then take
chart B and place corner bat dot 4 and measure down line 1 half of the required
underarm measure and number it 21. Now dot below 12 on line 12-15 quarter
the under arm measure and number it 22 and draw a line from 21 to 22. Mark
this line "dart line." Next place the inner edge of the short arm of chart or
scale B even with "bust line" the long edge passing through the line centrally
between 17 and 19 and in the same manner draw a line passing centrally between 20
and 18 and number each line 23. Now place Figure 7 corner of the inch scale
marked on the outer edge of the short arm of chart B at dot 16 and extend line 1
to corner also draw a line across the paper from this corner and number the
line 24. Then draw straight lines from 17 and 19 and from 20 and 18 to line
24 at the points where lines 23 touch this line and from 17 & 20 to the top of
lines 23 use the inverted side of the curved edge D E of chart or curve scale A
and draw curved lines, turn over the scale and place arrow a first at 19 and then
at 18 and draw lines to top of lines 23. Now place corner a at dot 14 and one of
the arrows at 15, carefully keeping the edge of the chart straight with the
"waist line" and dot through each "hip stara and number them 25 and 26
respectively. Then place arrow a2 at 25 and draw curve line to 15, invert the
scale and place the particular point where arrow a is marked on the reverse side
at 26 and curve to 14. Next place corner a at dot 9 keeping the long edge of
the chart even with the "waist line" on the outside of dot 9 and dot the particular
waist size required from scale J and number it 27. Change the scales or charts
and place the short edge of scale B even with line 24 the long edge touching
dot 27, then dot at corner 63 and number it 28. Lastly again take the chart or
curve scale A placing arrow 2 at 28 and curve to 9 when the other portion of
the pattern is complete.
"
To cut the "front drafting or front portion of the pattern for a bodice jacket
or the like with double side pieces as shewn at Figure 5 place the outer long edge
of the scale or chart B at the edge of the paper and draw lines 1 and 1ª along the
inner short and long edges. Then dot at front shoulder arrow 66 and number
it 2 and also the front neck proportions required on scale Q and number it 3.

page_text: Now measure down line 1 from dot 2 half of the required
"
"
"
on
arms eye measure
and number it 4 and. from dot 4 measure further down line 1 the "under arm
length" required and number it 5. Place corner 63 at dot 5 keeping the short
arm of the scale or chart even with line 1 and draw a line across the paper by the
long arm of the scale and mark it "waist line." In the same manner from dot 4
draw another line across the paper and mark it "bust line" also in the same
manner from dot 2 draw another line across the paper and mark it "shoulder
line." Now take chart or curve scale A and place arrow a³ at dot 3 moving the
curved edge of scale H until the required neck size touches line 1 and draw a
line from dot 3 to the neck size and number it 6. Then place corner a¹ at dot 6
allowing arrow a to touch the "shoulder line" and draw a line from a¹ the exact
length of the shoulder size required and number the end of this line 7. Change
the chart or scales again and place the front bust arrow 67 on chart or scale Bat
dot 4 and mark on the "bust line" the particular size of bust required from scale S
and from this mark measure one and a half inches beyond and number it 8.
Then place the short arm of this scale even with or resting upon the "waist line "
the outer edge of the long arm touching dot 8 make a dot at corner 63 and number
it 9 and draw a line upwards the same length as line 15 marked on diagram
Figure 3. Make a dot and number it 10. Take chart or curve scale A and place
arrow a¹5 at dot 8 and dot on the "bust. line" the particular waist size required
and number it 11. Then place arrow a at dot 11 and dot at arrow a¹ and
number it 12 and without moving the chart or curve scale mark on the "bust
line" from scale K two divisions or proportions beyond the particular waist size
required and number it 13. Now place corner a at dot 13 and dot on
bust line"
at arrow a and number it 14. Change the charts or scales and place the outer ·
long edge of chart or scale B at dot 7 keeping the outer edge of the short arm
even with or upon the "bust line" and dot through star centre 68 and number
it 15. Now take chart or curve scale A and let the "front arms eye curve
the curved edge D E touch dots 7 15 and 14 and draw a line along this curved
edge passing through each of these dots. Continue the curve from 13 to 12
" waist size
from 11 to 10. Then place arrow as at dot 9 and dot the particular
required from scale K on the "waist line" and number it 16. Afterwards place
arrow a at dot 16 and dot at arrow 15 and number it 17. With arrow a 15 at
dot 17 dot the particular waist size required from scale K further on the waist
line and number it 18. Now place corner a at dot 18 and dot on the "waist
line
at arrow and number it 19. Change the charts or scales and place that
division line or arrow on scale T corresponding with the particular neck size
required at dot 6 the long outer edge of this scale or chart touching line 1 at the
particular front length measure required and number it 20 then draw a line from
20 to 19. Now place arrow a¹0 on the chart or curve scale A at dot 20 and dot at
arrow a on line 20 to 19 and number it 21. Next place arrow a¹5 at dot 19 and
dot on line 20 to 19 the particular waist size required and number it 22 then let
equal numbers of the "dividing scale" L rest on dots 21 and 22 and make a dot
at each of the arrows a¹ and a3 and number them 23 and 24 respectively. Now
make dots centrally between dots 21 and 23 and 24 and 22 and draw straight lines
from 19 to 14, 18 to 13, 17 to 12 and 16 to 11 then take chart or scale B and
place corner b3 at dot 4 and measure down line 1 half of the required "under arm
measure and number it 25. Now dot two inches below 14 on line 14-19 and
number it 26 and draw a line from 25 to 26 and mark it "daŕt line." Then draw
straight lines from the "dart line" centrally between dots 21-23 and 24-22
down the paper and number each line 27. Next place Figure 7 corner 69 of the
inch scale marked on the outer edge of the short arm of chart or scale B at dot 20
and extend line 1 to corner b3 also draw a line across the paper from this corner
and number it 28. Then draw straight lines from 21 and 23 and from 24 and 22
to line 28 at the points where lines 27 touch this line and from 21 and 24 to top
of lines 27 use the inverted side of the curved edge D-E of chart or curve
scale A and draw curved lines turn over the scale or curve chart and place
"

page_text: arrow a first at 22 and then at 23 and draw lines to top of lines 27. Now place
arrow b¹ on chart or scale B at dot 12 the inner edge of the scale touching dot 18
and make a dot on line 28 where this edge touches and number it 29. Also dot
on line 28 two and a quarter inches from dot 29 and number it 30. Then place
corner of the same chart or scale at dot 12 the outer edge of the scale touching
dot 17 and line 28 and dot on line 28 and number it 31. In the same manner
place corner 65 at dot 11 outer edge of scale or chart touching dot 16 and line 28
and dot on line 28 and number it 32. Now place corner bat dot 12 the inside
edge of the scale or chart touching dot 9 and wherever the edge rests on line' 28
make a dot and number it 33. Change the scales or charts and place the arrow
on the chart or curve scale A at dot 33 and curve to dot 9. In the same manner
curve from 31 to 17 and from 29 to 19 then reverse the scale-and place the portion
of the curved edge D-E where the arrow a² is marked at dot 30 and curve to
dot 18 and likewise from dot 32 to dot 16 when the front drafting pattern
with double side pieces is complete.
..
"
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said in-
vention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is:-
CLAIMS.
First The improvements in the mode and means for setting out, dresses
jackets and the like ready for cutting consisting essentially of two charts or
scales A and B cut or made to the configuration and angles shewn on the drawings
in cimbination upon their surfaces of the various, lines diagrams angleg and
scales by which the pattern of a dress or the like may be set out from leading
measurements in the manner and for the purpose substantially as herein set
forth and as shewn upon the accompanying sheets of drawings.
Second: The diagram boards A and B of external configuration such as shewn
upon the drawings having scales marked upon their surfaces for the particular
purpose herein set forth.
Third: The new system of setting out dresses and other articles of wearing
apparel consisting of such like templates as A and B and as set forth.
Dated this 20th day of March 1900.
EDMUND GEORGE KENDALL.
By George Barker,
Fellow of the Chartered Institute of Patent Agents,
Agent for Applicant, 77, Colmore Row, Birmingham.