IMPROVE- MENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF VELVETS AND VELVETEENS
Year: 1861

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Charles William Kesselmeyer, of Manchester, in
the County of Lancaster, Warehouseman, and Thomas Mellodew, of
Oldham, in the said County, Manufacturer, for the Invention of "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF VELVETS AND VELVETEENS."
Sealed the 11th February 1862, and dated the 15th August 1861.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Charles William Kessel-
meyer and Thomas Mellodew at the Office of the Commissioners of
Patents, with their Petition, on the 15th August 1861.
We, CHARLES WILLIAM KESSELMEYER, of Manchester, in the County of
Lancaster, Warehouseman, and THOMAS MELLODEW, of Oldham, in the said
County, Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention
for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF VELVETS AND VELVETEENS," to be as
follows:-
Our Invention relates to velvets and velveteens, in which the pile is pro-
duced by weft threads floated over warp threads, such warp threads being
composed either of cotton, silk, wool, flax, or any other fibrous material, or
any mixture or combination thereof, and consists in various new methods of
combining the said weft and warp threads, whereby various defects in the
appearance of these fabrics, as hitherto manufactured, are either modified or
entirely removed.
These defects are, first, a nicky appearance in tabby or plain back velvets,
running at right angles from selvage to selvage. This nicky appearance is
produced by one of the back weft threads or binders once in every round of
A

page_text: weft threads of which the combination is composed, which back weft thread
or binder is interwoven with the warp threads in such a manner as to prevent
the preceding and succeeding face weft floats from meeting closely together,
and thus occasions the nick between each consecutive two sets or double
series of face weft floats.
Second, a cordy or ribby appearance in tabby or plain back velvets, as
well as in some makes of twilled back velvets and velveteens, which ribby
appearance runs parallel with the selvages throughout the length of the
piece, and is produced by a tight race once or twice in every series of warp
threads of which the combination is composed. These tight races arise
from the back weft threads. or binders which cause the nicky appearance
from selvage to selvage, being preceded and succeeded always by the same
two-face weft floats in consequence of the regularity and uniformity of every
individual series of face weft floats introduced between each two consecutive
back weft threads or binders in every such combination.
Third, a nicky or twilly appearance running diagonally from selvage to selvage
across the piece in twilled back velveteens and velvets, which only becomes
visible after these fabrics have been cut. This diagonal nick arises mainly from
the usual manner of manufacturing these fabrics with only two-face weft floats.
between every two consecutive back weft threads or binders in the usual
combination of six warp threads with nine weft threads, or, generally speaking,
with a less number of face weft floats between every two consecutive back
weft threads or binders than the number of races in any combination of six or
more warp threads with-nine or more weft threads.
The methods by which we propose to remedy or modify these defects are
the following: First, we obviate or modify the nick running at right angles
from selvage to selvage by manufacturing the fabrics with a ribbed back, or
by manufacturing them with a reversed twill back, shewing like plain cloth
on the back of the fabric, and having the twill on the face side underneath the
face weft floats, or else with any sort of fancy or figured back, which will not
prevent, any two consecutive face weft floats from meeting closely together.
Another method of making the nick running at right angles from selvage to
selvage less conspicuous, is by reducing the number of face weft floats
occurring between each two consecutive back weft threads or binders which
produce such nick, and discarding the other back weft thread or binder
entirely, which peculiar arrangement of warp and weft threads is, bowever,
only applicable to fast pile fabrics made according to the principle of our
Patent of 16th August 1860, No. 1987.
Second, we obviate or modify the cordy or ribby appearance running parallel

page_text: with the selvages in tabby velvets of all sorts, as well as the diagonal nick in
twilled back velvets and velveteens by an arrangement of the face weft
floats with the back weft threads or binders, whereby we more or less break
the regularity and uniformity of the series of face weft floats occurring between
each two of those back weft threads or binders which cause the nicky appear-
ance running at right angles from selvage to selvage, and thus prevent these
said back weft threads or binders which cause such nick from being preceded
and succeeded in every instance by the same two face weft floats. By means
of this arrangement, we are enabled to produce a tight race upon every
alternate warp thread in the combination, and by thus preventing one race
from being tighter than another, we remove the cordy or ribby appearance of
the fabrics.
This peculiar arrangement of face weft floats and back weft threads of
course admits of almost an endless variety of adaptation; but the principle of
our Invention for removing or modifying the cordy or ribby appearance running
parallel with the selvage in plain back velvets, as well as the diagonal nick in
twilled back velvets and velveteens, consists in breaking the regularity or
uniformity of the series of face weft threads occurring between any two con-
secutive back weft threads or binders, or of any two or more of such series of
face weft floats occurring between two of those back weft threads or binders,
which cause the nick running at right angles from selvage to selvage, and
especially in interweaving the first face weft float of the series of face weft
floats succeeding any one of those back weft threads or binders, which cause.
the nick running at right angles from selvage to selvage with another warp.
thread or warp threads than that or those with which the first face weft float
of the series of face weft floats succeeding the previous one of those back weft
threads or binders which cause the nick referred to has been interwoven,
though in other respects the regularity of such series of face weft floats may be
preserved or not.
O SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Charles William Kesselmeyer and Thomas Mellodew in the
Great Seal Patent Office on the 15th February 1862.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, CHARLES
WILLIAM KESSELMEYER, of Manchester, in the County of Lancaster, Ware:
5 houseman, and THOMAS MELLODEW, of Oldham, in the said County, Manu-
facturer, send greeting.

page_text: WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Fifteenth day of August, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-one, in the twenty-fifth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto us, the
said Charles William Kesselmeyer and Thomas Mellodew, Her special license
that we, the said Charles William Kesselmeyer and Thomas Mellodew, our
executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as we, the said Charles
William Kesselmeyer and Thomas Mellodew, our executors, administrators,
and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time
and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and
lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom
of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an
Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF VELVETS AND VEL-
VETEENS," upon the condition, amongst others, that we, the said Charles
William Kesselmeyer and Thomas Mellodew, by an instrument in writing
under our hands and seals, or under the hand and seal of one of us, should
particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in
what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be
filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and
immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Charles William Kesselmeyer, do
hereby declare the nature of our said Invention, and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement and accompanying Drawings (that is to say) :-
Our Invention relates to velvets and velveteens in which the pile is produced
by weft threads floated over warp threads, such weft threads being composed
either of cotton, silk, wool, flax, or any other fibrous material, or any mixture
or combination thereof, and consists in various new methods of combining the
said weft and warp threads, whereby various defects in the appearance of these
fabrics, as hitherto manufactured, are either modified or entirely removed.
These defects are, 1, a nicky appearance, in tabby or plain back velvets,
running at right angles from selvage to selvage; 2, a cordy or sibby appearance
in tabby or plain back velvets, as well as in some makes of twill back velvets and
velveteens, which ribby appearance runs parallel with the selvages throughout
the length of the piece; 3, a nicky or twilly appearance, running diagonally
from selvage to selvage across the piece in twilled back velveteens and velvets,
which only becomes visible after these fabrics have been cut.
In order to explain the causes of these defects, we have to look more
minutely into the construction of the particular fabrics in which they occur,

page_text: and for this purpose we have to classify these fabrics according to the construc-
tion of the close and firm back which serves as the groundwork of the whole
texture. The construction of this close and firm back arising from the inter-
weaving of the back weft threads or binders with the warp threads is twofold.
It is either a plain cloth generally called tabby back, which is the case in tabby
or plain back velvets or a twilled cloth sometimes called a Genoa back, which
is the case in Genoa velvets and most descriptions of velveteens; this twilled
or Genoa back may be formed in various ways, but the most general method
has been to make it what is called a three-leaf twill with the face of the twill
shewing on the back of the fabric, which 3 half twill consists of combinations
of 3 warp threads, with 3 back weft threads or binders. Occasionally, however,
other descriptions of twill have been made use of for the formation of the back
of these fabrics, such as a 4 leaf twill back, which may either be a double twill
or a 3 and 1 twill, both consisting of combinations of 4 warp threads with 4
back weft threads or binders, or a 5 leaf twill or satin back, consisting of
combinations of 5 warp threads with 5 back weft threads or binders, but as
these latter descriptions of twill backs, comparatively speaking, have only been
rarely made use of in the manufacture of velvets and velveteens, we shall confine
our remarks to the plain or tabby backs, and the 3 leaf twill or Genoa backs,
which are employed in the manufacture of the great bulk of these fabrics.
Diagram No. 1 is a section running at right angles from selvage to selvage
of a plain or tabby back, shewing that the interweaving of the back weft threads
or binders with the warp threads is carried on regularly over and under the
consecutive warp threads, the second back weft thread or binder lying exactly
in the reversed position of the first, after which all succeeding pairs of back
weft threads or binders will only be repetitions of the first pair. This com-
bination produces a plain cloth for the back, as shewn at No. 2, in which the
back view of the fabric is shewn, the white spaces indicating the warp.
Diagram No. 3 represents a section running at right angles from selvage to
selvage of a 3 leaf twill back, with the face of the twill appearing on the back
of the fabric, and shewing that the interweaving of the back weft threads or
binders with the warp threads is carried on regularly under two and over one
warp thread.
Diagram No. 4 is a representation of the back of this fabric, showing the
firm and close texture of twilled cloth thus produced, the white spaces being
as in Number 2, the warp threads.
Having thus examined the two principal methods which have been hitherto
employed for forming or constructing the close and firm back of velvets and
velveteens, which back serves as the groundwork of the whole texture, and to

page_text: which the plush or pile is more or less firmly attached, we have next to con-
sider the manner in which the face weft floats which are required for the
formation of such plush or pile have hitherto been interwoven with the warp
threads of the back.
This interweaving of the face weft floats with the warp threads has hitherto
been carried on in a two-fold manner, viz. :-I, in such a way as to produce
comparatively loose plush or pile by interweaving such face weft floats with
alternate warp threads in such a manner that such face weft floats intended to
form the plush or pile are made to float over 5 or more warp tbreads, according
to the depths of pile required, and then to go under or interwoven with one
warp thread only, then float again over 5 or more warp threads, and go under
one warp thread, and so on continuously across the whole width of the piece.
By means of this arrangement the face weft floats in the uncut state, which,
when cut from the plush or pile, and therefore also the plush or pile itself, are
only kept attached to the back of the fabric by going under or half round one
warp thread in every combination of 6 or more warp threads with weft threads,
thus forming, when cut, a kind of loop completely open at one end, which-loop
is more or less liable to slip out through the back of the fabric. Sometimes
this interweaving of the face weft floats with the warp threads producing com-
paratively loosed plush or pile has been carried on in such a manner as to
interweave such face weft floats with every third (instead of every alternate)
warp thread, every such faco weft threads floating over 5 or more warp threads
and going under one warp thread in every combination of 6 or more warp
threads with weft threads, as stated before, but as this interweaving of the face
weft floats with every third warp thread produces a race half as wide again as
the interweaving of such face weft floats with every alternate warp thread, or
clse (if the race is to be of the same size) requires half as many more warp
threads for producing a fabric of the same width, it has generally speaking
been discarded. The interweaving of the face weft floats with every alternate
warp thread in the manner described above, so as to produce comparatively
loose plush or pile is that which is usually adopted in the manufacture of
velvets and velveteens.
2. By adopting, however, the method of manufacturing these fabrics, for which
we have obtained Her Majesty's Letters Patent, dated Sixteenth August, One
thousand eight hundred and sixty, No. 1987, the interweaving of the face weft
floats with the back weft threads can be carried on in such a way as to produce
comparatively fast plush or pile by interweaving such face weft floats in various
ways up and down, with 3 or more warp threads for instance, in such a manner
that such face weft floats intended to form the plush or pile are made to float

page_text: over 5 or more warp threads according to the depth of pile required, then to
go under one warp thread, then again over the next warp thread, and then
again under the third warp thread, after which interweaving of the face weft
floats down, up and down with the warp threads, they are again made to float
over 5 or more warp threads, and then to interweave again down, up and down
with 3 warp threads as before stated, and so on continuously across the whole
width of the piece. By means of this arrangement the face weft floats in the
uneut state, which, when cut from the plush or pile, and therefore also the
plush or pile itself, are firmly attached to the back of the fabric, and produce
comparatively fast pile.
For the exemplification of the manner of interweaving the face weft floats
of these fabrics with the warp threads, we refer to the annexed diagrams, as
follows: Diagram 5 is a section at right angles from selvage to selvage, one
series of three face weft floats of a velvet or velveteen as usually made of
combinations of 6 warp threads with 8 and 9 weft threads, shewing that the
interweaving of the face weft floats is carried on with every alternate warp
thread, every face weft float going under one and floating over 5 such warp
threads, there being two series of such face weft floats, the second of which
is an exact repetition of the first. This interweaving of 1 face weft float out
of
every series of 3 face weft floats with every alternate warp thread is further
illustrated by Diagram Number 6, which represents a top view of the 2 series
of 3 face weft floats, each continued in 9 combinations of 6 warp threads
with 8 weft threads producing tabby or plain back velvet, omitting the 2 back
weft threads or binders in every combination, the 1st series of 3 face weft
floats being colored blue, and the 2nd series red. This Diagram Number 6
shews distinctly the two equal series of face weft floats employed in every
combination of 6 warp threads with 8 weft threads, which 2 series of face weft
floats are the same both in the manufacture of tabby velvets, and of the usual
make of three leaf twill back velveteens, with this difference only that for pro-
ducing the plain back of tabby velvets only 2 back weft threads or binders are
required in every combination as shown in Diagrams 1 and 2, which 3 back
weft threads or binders are required in every combination for producing the 3
leaf twilled back of the usual make of velveteens as shown in Diagrams 3 and 4.
In the manufacture of tabby velvets one of such back weft threads or binders
is therefore introduced between every such individual series of 3 face weft
floats as before described, which thus forms a combination of 6 warp threads
with 8 weft threads, of which 2 are back weft threads or binders, and 6 are
face weft floats, while in the manufacture of the usual make of velveteens one
of the 3-back weft threads or binders is introduced between every two con-

page_text: secutive face weft floats, which thus forms a combination of 6 warp threads
with 9 weft threads, of which 3 are back weft threads or binders, and 6 are
face weft floats; for instance, if the first weft thread is á back weft thread or
binder, the 2nd and 3rd weft threads will consist of the 1st and 2nd face
weft floats of the 1st series of face weft floats, the 4th weft thread will be the
2nd back weft thread or binder, the 5th weft thread will be the 3rd face weft
float of the 1st series, and the 6th weft thread will be the 1st face weft float
of the 2nd series of such face weft floats, the 7th weft thread will be the 3rd
back weft thread or binder, and the 8th and 9th weft threads will be the 2nd and
3rd face weft floats of the 2nd series of such face weft floats, as above described.
The two series of face weft floats therefore remain exactly the same both
in the usual make of tabby velvet and velveteens, only the individual face weft
floats are differently divided by the back weft threads or binders. This different
division of the face weft floats by the back weft threads or binders in the manu-
facture of the usual make of velveteens consisting of combinations of 6 warp
threads with 9 weft threads is illustrated by Diagram No. 7, which represents
a top view of the two series of 3 face weft floats, cach-colored blue and red, as
before contained in 9 combinations of 6 warp threads with 9 weft threads,
omitting the back weft threads or binders, but shewing the manner in which
each two consecutive face weft floats are separated from the next pair of such
face weft floats.by an interweaving back weft thread or binder. Velveteens
and Genoa velvets made upon this plan have therefore only 2 face weft floats
for every back weft thread or binder, while tabby or plain back velvets as
above described bave 3 face weft floats for every back weft thread or binder,
in consequence of which the former will naturally have a thinner face of plush
or pile than the latter if made of the same weight and material. To remedy
this comparative defect velveteens and Genoa velvets have also been made with 3
face weft floats to every back weft thread or binder by adding a third series of
such face weft floats to the combination, and introducing one of the 3 back
weft threads or binders between every such series of 3 face weft floats, thus
producing a combination of 6 warp threads with 12 weft threads, of which are
back weft threads or binders, and 9 are face weft floats, as shewn in Diagram 8,
which represents a top view of the 3 series of face weft floats colored blue, red,
and yellow, contained in 9 combinations of 6 warp threads with 12 weft threads,
producing velveteens or Genoa velvets with a fuller face of plush or pile, but
in which the back weft threads or binders are omitted. From these Diagrams,
No. 6, 7 and 8, it will be seen that whether 2, 3, or more series of such face
weft floats are employed in every combination of 6 warp threads with weft
threads, the individual series of face weft floats remain always exactly alike, in

page_text: so far as in each series the three individual face weft floats follow each other in
the same order or rotation, and in such a manner that the interweaving of the
first, second, and third face weft float of every such series of face weft floats
takes place in every instance with the identical same warp thread as that with
which the corresponding face weft float in the first series of face weft floats has
been interwoven, which facts as here particularly described it will be necessary
to bear in mind, as some of the main points of our Invention hinge upon them.
Although we have in making the foregoing remarks mostly spoken of velvets
and velveteens consisting of the usual combination of 6 warp threads with weft
threads, and explained these remarks by Diagrams 6, 7, and 8, the same principle
of manufacture with regard to the series of face weft floats introduced between the
consecutive back weft threads or binders will hold good in all other combinations
of more than 6 warp threads with weft threads; for instance, Diagrams 9 and 10
show the usual manner of forming these series of face weft floats in combination
of 8 warp threads with weft threads, omitting the back weft threads or binders,
No. 9 showing the interweaving of the individual face weft floats with every
alternate warp thread in a regular manner, namely with the 1st, 3rd, 5th, and
7th warp threads successively, which four individual face weft floats form one
complete series of such face weft floats, while in No. 10 this interweaving of
the individual face weft floats with every alternate warp thread is carried on
in a skipping manner, namely with the 1st warp thread, next with the 5th, then
with the 3rd, and lastly with the 7th warp thread of the combination, which 4
individual face weft floats form also one complete series of such face weft floats.
In the same manner the principle of forming the series of face weft floats is
carried out in combination of 10 warp threads with weft threads either
in a regular or skipping manner as explained above with respect to
Diagrams 9 and 10, as well as in all other combinations of more than 6 warp
threads with weft threads; but in all cases the series of such face weft floats
employed in the manufacture of any particular description of velvets or vel-
veteens, whether the interweaving of the individual face weft floats has been
carried on in a regular or in a skipping manner, as before stated, have hitherto
in every respect invariably been mere repetitions of the first series of such face
weft floats. The individual face weft floats of every such series following each
other in the same order or rotation in every such series of face weft floats in
such a manner that the interweaving of the 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, &c. face
weft floats of every such series of face weft floats takes place every instance with
the identical same warp thread or warp threads as that or those with which the
corresponding face weft floats in the first series of face weft floats have been
interwoven. Having now explained the formation of the close and firm back

page_text: of velvets and velveteens as produced by the interweaving of the back weft
threads or binders with the warp threads, as well as the construction of these
fabrics with respect to the interweaving of the face weft floats required for the
formation of the plush or pile with such warp threads, it now remains to shew
these 2 descriptions of weft threads, namely, the back wefthreads or binders
and the face weft threads in combination, and to explain the effect which this
combined interweaving with the warp threads in the manner already described
has upon the appearance of such fabrics when woven, and from which causes
of the various defects already enumerated will become apparent.
•
We will, for the present, confine our remarks to the usual make of velvets,
consisting of combinations of 6 warp threads with 8 weft threads, which
remarks can easily be applied or extended to all other combinations of more than
6 warp threads. The usual make of tabby velvets consists of combinations of
6 warp threads with 8 weft threads, of which 2 are back weft threads or
binders, and 6 are face weft floats forming 2 series of 3 face weft floats, each
perfectly alike, as will be seen by reference to diagram No. 11, which is is the
same as No. 6, with the addition of the back weft threads or binders, together
with the individual face weft floats follow each other, and the way in which
they are interwoven with the warp threads during the progress of manu-
facturing these fabrics, the places where the warp threads cover the weft
threads being indicated by white squares, and the back weft threads or binders,
and the 2 series of weft floats in combination being respectively colored brown
.and black. From this Diagram, No. 11, it will be seen that for the purpose
of interweaving the 1st back weft thread or binder with the warp threads 1st,
3rd, and 5th warp threads of every combination are required to be raised, so
as to allow this first back weft thread or binder to go under the 1st, 3rd, and
5th warp threads, and over the 2nd, 4th, and 6th warp threads. For the
purpose of interweaving the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th weft threads (which are the
•1st, 2nd, and 3rd face weft floats, and form the 1st series of face weft floats)
with the warp threads, it will be seen that again the same warp threads, viz.,
the 1st, 3rd, and 5th of every combination are required to be raised, though
not all 3 at the same time, but consecutively, the 1st warp thread being
.raised to put in the 1st face weft float, the 3rd warp thread to put in the 2nd
face weft float, and the 5th warp thread to put in the 3rd face weft float.
This interweaving of these 3 face weft floats by raising the same 3 warp
threads as those which are raised for the purpose of interweaving the 1st
back weft thread or binder naturally allows these 3 face weft floats, and more
especially the first of them, by the force of the slay or batten of the loom to
be driven up so as to cover this 1st back weft thread or binder, which latter

page_text: is, therefore, only visible on the back side of the fabric, but disappears on the
face side. After these 3 face weft floats have been interwoven with the warp
threads in the aforesaid manner, we come to the 5th weft thread, which is the
2nd back weft thread or binder for the purpose of interweaving this 2nd back
weft thread or binder with the warp threads; the 2nd, 4th, and 6th warp
threads of every combination are required to be raised so as to allow this
second back weft thread or binder to go under the 2nd, 4th, and 6th warp
threads and over the 1st, 3rd, and 5th warp threads; which 2nd back weft
thread or binder therefore occupies exactly the reverse position of the 1st
back weft thread or binder. In consequence of the reversed position or
crossing of the warp threads, this 2nd back weft thread or binder will only be
driven up by the force of the slay or batten to the three face weft floats pre-
viously put in, but will not slip under them; the three warp threads which
have been raised for the purpose of interweaving these three face weft floats
with them being just those which are lowered when the 2nd back weft
thread or binder is interwoven with them. To finish the combination the
2nd series of face weft floats consisting of the 6th, 7th, and 8th weft threads
require to be interwoven with the warp threads, and as this 2nd series is
exactly like the 1st series of such face weft floats, the interweaving of the
same with the warp threads is carried out exactly in the same manner by
consecutively raising the 1st, 3rd, and 5th warp threads of every combination.
The 1st warp thread being raised to put in the 6th weft thread, or 1st face
weft float of the 2nd series, the 3rd warp thread to put in the 7th weft thread
or 2nd face weft float of the 2nd series, and the 5th warp thread to put in the
8th weft thread or 3rd face weft float of the 2nd series, which finishes the
whole combination of 6 warp threads, 8 weft threads, of which all others are
mere repetitions. These last 3 face weft floats of the 2nd series of face weft
floats being interwoven in the same manner with the same 3 warp threads as
the 3 face weft floats of the first series of face weft floats, namely, by raising
the 1st, 3rd, and 5th warp thread, while for the purpose of interweaving the
previously put in second back weft thread or binder it required the raising
of the 2nd, 4th, and 6th warp threads, and the lowering of the 1st, 3rd, and
5th warp threads. It is evident that these last put in 3 face weft floats
will, by the force of the slay or batten, only be driven up to the pre-
viously put in 2nd back weft thread or binder, but cannot slip over and cover
it. Now, as for the reason stated, this second back weft thread or binder
can neither slip under the preceding 3 face weft floats of the first series of
face weft floats, nor can be covered by the succeeding 3 face weft floats of
the second series of face weft floats. This 2nd back weft thread or binder is

page_text: conspicuously seen both on the surface and on the back of the fabric
and thus causes the nicky appearance running at right angles from selvage
to selvage; which nicky appearance is the first defect, which we remedy
by our Invention, after the interweaving of the 8 weft threads with the
6 warp threads, which constitute one whole combination is accomplished, and
of which all succeeding combinations are more repetitions of the first back
weft thread or binder of the succeeding combination is interwoven, and the warp
threads in the same manner as the first back weft thead or binder of the pre-
ceding combination, and from what has been said before it is evident that this
first back weft thread or binder of the succeeding combination by being driven
up by the force of the slay or batten of the loom, must partly slip under the
6th, 7th, and 8th weft threads, or 4th, 5th, and 6th face weft float of the
preceding combinations, and as after this the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd face weft floats
follow again, as before stated, and assist to cover the previously put in Ist
back weft thread or binder of the second combination, it follows that this first
back weft thread or binder of every combination is completely covered by these
two series of face weft floats, as already named, and is only visible on the back
of the fabric. These two series of face weft floats therefore form a kind of
welt or roll of face weft floats in every combination, running at right angles
from selvage to selvage, which welts or rolls are separated from each other by
the second back weft thread or binder of every combination; this second back
weft thread or binder cannot possibly be fully covered in the manufacture of
tabby velvets, as hitherto practised, and especially in light fabrics, is very
conspicuous, both in the grey and finished state, giving to the fabric the nicky
appearance before complained of as running at right angles from selvage to
selvage. This nicky appearance is represented by Diagram No. 12, which is
a top view of a tabby or plain back velvet comprised of 9 combinations of
6 warp threads with 8 weft threads, but which only shews one of the back
weft threads or binders, the other back weft thread or binder being hid under
the welt or roll of 6 face weft thread floats, and which lies right in the middle
between the 1st and 2nd series of such face weft floats, being only visible on the
back of the fabric in the place where it is indicated in a Diagram as protruding
from underneath the welt or roll of face weft floats. For the purpose of
making the welts or rolls formed by the 2nd series of face weft floats more
apparent to the eye, we have in this instance colored both these series of face
welt floats blue. The cause of this defect of a nicky appearance running at
right angles from selvage to selvage in tabby or plain back velvets is therefore
to be found in the completely reversed position of the warp threads when the
second back weft thread or binder has to be interwoven with them from that

page_text: which the warp threads occupy, when all the remaining 7 weft threads of the
combination, consisting of one back weft thread or binder and 6 face weft
floats, are interwoven with such warp threads, which prevents the face weft
floats preceding and succeeding such second back weft threads or binders from
meeting closely together, and covering this second back weft thread or binder,
as before explained. The more therefore this position of the warp threads for
the purpose of interweaving this second back weft thread or binder is modified
or altered so as to allow the preceding and succeeding face weft floats to meet
closely together, and to cover this back weft thread or binder either wholly or
partly, the less liable the fabric becomes to these nicky appearances running
at right angles from selvage to selvage between each consecutive 2 sets or
double series of face weft floats. The same defect also occurs in most makes
of tabby or plain back velvets consisting of combinations of more than 6 warp
threads with weft threads. Having thus traced and explained the cause of
this defect, the remedy constitutes the first part of our Invention, namely, we
obviate or modify the nick running at right angles from selvage to selvage by
manufacturing the fabrics with another than a completely plain or tabby back,
for instance, with a ribbed back or with a reversed twill back, shewing like
plain cloth on the back of the fabric, and having the twill on the face side
underneath the face weft floats, or else with any sort of fancy or figured back,
which will not prevent any 2 consecutive face weft floats or series of such
face weft floats from meeting closely together. Some of these new backs are
shown in Diagrams No. 13 to No. 26. No. 13 is a section at right angles
from selvage to selvage of a ribbed back, of which one rib consists of two
warp threads, and the other of one warp thread. No. 14 is a representation
of such ribbed back as it appears when viewed from the bottom or back of the
fabric. No. 15 is a section at right angles from selvage to selvage of a ribbed
back, of which every rib consists of 2 warp threads. No. 16 is a representa-
tion of such ribbed back as it appears when viewed from the bottom or back
of the fabrics. No. 17 is a section at right angles from selvage to selvage of
a three-leaf reversed twill back, showing like plain cloth on the back of the
fabric, and having the twill on the face side, underneath the face weft float.
No. 18 is a back view of the same. Nos. 19 and 20, 21 and 22, 23 and 24, 25
and 26 are sections and back views of fancy or figured backs. It will be
obvious that a great variety of other ribbed reversed twill and fancy or figured
backs, besides those represented by these Diagrams, may be substituted for a
plain or tabby back in the manner well known to the practical designer of
weavers' drafts or patterns, but we merely mention the above as being those
which sufficiently answer the required purpose. For the production of the

page_text: ribbed backs, it will require two back weft threads or binders in every com-
For the reversed three-leaf twill
bination of warp threads with weft threads.
back, it will require 3 back weft threads or binders in every such combination,
and for the fancy or figured backs, as above described, it will require various
numbers of back weft threads or binders in every such combination, according
to the particular description of back which is desired to be produced. For
instance, for the production of the two sorts of fancy back laid down in
Diagrams 19 and 20 it will require three back weft threads or binders
in every such combination; for Diagrams 21, 22, it will four; and for
Diagrams 25, 26, 27, 28, five of such back weft threads or binders in every
combination. Not every one of these various descriptions of backs will
produce the desired effect of obviating or modifying the nicky appearance
running at right angles from selvage to selvage, in combinations with every
description or length of face weft floats, but one description of back will do
best in combination with one particular description or length of face weft floats,
and another description of back will do better in combination with another
description or length of face weft floats; for instance, the ribbed back of which
one rib consists of two warp threads, and the other of one warp thread, as laid
down in Diagrams No. 13, 14, will do best in combination with face weft
floats which float over 5 warp threads and are interwoven with the 6th,
producing combinations of 6 warp threads with 8 weft threads, as shewn in
Diagrams Nos. 27, 28, because in this combination the two back weft threads
in binders which form the 2 and 1 ribbed back either slip under the preceding
face weft floats, or are covered by the succeeding face weft float, thus allowing
all the face weft floats to meet closely together, so that the back weft threads
or binders are only visible on the back of the fabric, but disappear on the face
side, being completely covered by the face weft floats. Diagram No. 27 shews
this combination, as above described, but in such a manner as to leave the
back weft threads or binders which form the 2 and 1 ribbed back visible in
the places where they are put in the process of weaving. In this Diagram it
will be seen that when the first back weft thread or binder is put in, the
1st, 3d, 4th, and 6th warp threads of every combination are raised, and when
the first weft float which follows the first back weft thread or binder is put in
the first warp thread of every combination is raised. Now, as the first
warp thread has been raised also when the preceding back weft thread or
binder was put in, the succeeding first force weft floats when slip over
the preceding back weft thread or binder, and cover it, so that this
It will also
latter is no longer visible on the surface of the fabric.
be seen from this Diagram that when the 3rd face weft float is put in

page_text: the 5th warp thread of every combination is raised, and when the 2nd
back weft thread or binder is put in the 2nd and 5th warp threads of
every combinations are raised, that is to say, the 5th warp thread is raised
both for putting in the 3rd face weft float and again for putting in the 2nd
back weft thread or binder, and on his account this 2nd back weft thread or
binder slips under the preceding face weft float and is thus covered by the
latter, so that it is no longer visible on the surface of the fabric. The places
where the back weft threads or binders are either slipping under the preceding
face weft float or are covered by the succeeding one we have indicated in
Diagram 27 and others by dots in the white squares. Thus both back weft
threads or binders of this combination are only visible on the back of the
fabrics but not on the surface of the same, which surface only shews the face
weft floats all lying closely together as will be seen from Diagram 28, which
is a top view of the fabric as it appears when woven, the back weft threads
or binders not being perceptible on the face side, but only at the back of the
fabrics, one between each two consecutive series of face weft floats in the
place indicated in this Diagram, where these back threads or binders are
represented as protruding top and bottom from underneath the face weft
floats in the places which they occupy in the back of the fabric. From
this explanation it will be obvious that whenever the face weft floats
preceding or succeeding a back weft thread or binder are interwoven with
one of the same warp threads which require to be raised in order to put
in this back weft thread or binder, this back weft thread or binder will
either slip under the preceding face weft float, or be covered by the succeeding
face weft float, as the case may be, which principle will at once determine
which is the right sort of back necessary for obviating the nicky appearance
running at right angles from selvage to selvage in connexion with any
particular description or length of face weft floats. The ribbed back of which
both ribs consist of two warp threads each as shown in Diagrams 15, 16,
will do best in combination with face weft floats which float over 7 warp
threads and are interwoven with the 8th, producing combinations of 8 warp
threads with 10 weft threads, as shewn in Diagrams 29, 30. No 29 shewing
the two back weft threads or binders and the two series of 4 face weft floats
each in the succession in which they are interwoven with the warp threads,
and No. 30 representing a top view of the fabric as it appears when woven,
the two back weft threads or binders not being perceptible on the surface
of the fabric, but only on the back of the same as before described. The
reversed three leaf twill back as shown in Diagrams 17, 18, will do best in
combination with face weft floats which float over 5 warp threads and are

page_text: interwoven with the 6th, producing combinations of 6 warp threads with
12 weft threads, of which three are back weft threads or binders and 9 arc
face weft floats, but in order fully to carry out the improvement which we
are now explaining in connexion with the reversed 3 leaf twill back, our
second improvement for obviating the cordy or ribby appearance running.
parallel with the selvages, of which we shall speak later on, must be connected
with it at the same time, by means of which the reversed 3 leaf twill back
becomes effective in removing both the nicky appearance running at right
angles from selvage to selvage as well as the cordy or ribby appearance
running parallel with the selvages; this latter combination is shewn in
Diagrams 31, 32, and will be more fully explained hereafter, being only
named here to show the effect produced by this combination of the two
improvements to allow the face weft floats preceding and succeeding a back
weft thread or binder to meet closely together and to cover such inter-
vening back weft thread or binder, thus obviating the nicky appearance
running at right angles from selvage to selvage. Diagram 31 shows this
combination as above described in such a manner as to leave the back weft
threads or binders which form the reversed three leaf twill back visible in
the places where they are put in the process of weaving, and Diagram 32
represents a top view of the fabric as it appears when woven showing the
face weft floats all lying closely together as before explained. The fancy
or figured back as shewn in Diagrams 19, 20, will do best in combination
with face weft floats which float over 5 warp threads and are interwoven
with the 6th. The Diagrams 21, 22, will answer best in combination with
face weft floats which float over 7 warp threads and are interwoven with the
Sth. The fancy or figured back as shewn in Diagrams 23, 24, will answer
best in combination with face weft floats which float over 9 warp threads
and are interwoven with the 10th, and the fancy or figured back as shown
in Diagrams 25, 26, will do best in combination with comparatively fast
face weft floats which float over 7 warp threads, and are interwoven down, up
and down, with the 8th, 9th, and 10th warp threads. In order fully to
obviate the nicky appearance running at right angles from selvage to selvage,
when such fancy or figured backs are employed, it will require the adoption of
our second improvement for obviating the cordy or ribby appearance running
parallel with the selvages, by means of which connection both defects are
removed at the same time as will be more fully explained later on. In all
these various Diagrams, Nos. 27 to 32, the first of every pair shows the
back weft threads or binders, and the several series of face weft floats in the
succession in which they are interwoven with the warp threads, and the

page_text: cordy or ribby
manner described
second Diagrams of every pair represent top views of the fabrics as they
appear when woven, the back weft threads or binders not being perceptible
on the surface of the fabrics, but only on the backs of the same as before
explained. For all these various combinations some of which are shown
in Diagrams 29 to 32, similar explanations may be given, as we have already
done when speaking of the combination of 6 warp threads with 8 weft
threads with a 2 and 1 rubbed back as shown in Diagrams 27 and 28.
In the same manner other descriptions of backs may be formed to suit
particular combinations of warp and weft threads, all of which it is impossible
to point out. Although these various backs are best adapted to individual
or particular descriptions of face weft floats, yet they may be employed
with any one of these descriptions of face weft floats, and will in most
instances produce the desired effect when employed in connexion with
our second improvement for obviating or modifying the
appearance running parallel with the selvages in the
already when treating of the reversed 3-leaf twill back. In some of these
various combinations of warp and weft threads some part of the warp
threads is liable to become slack in the process of weaving arising from the
peculiar manner of interweaving the weft threads with the warp threads,
and whenever this is the case it will be advisable to have the warp threads
wound upon two beams, namely, those which are liable to become slack
during the process of weaving upon one beam and those which will remain
tight upon another, by means of which arrangement both sorts can be kept
equally tight by applying different retaining powers to these two beams in
the manner well known to practical overlookers of looms. Another method
of making the nick running at right angles from selvage to selvage less
conspicuous is by reducing the numbers of face weft floats occurring between
each two consecutive back weft threads or binders which produce such nick
and discarding the other back weft thread or binder entirely, which peculiar
arrangement of warp and weft threads is however only applicable to fast
pile fabrics made according to the principle of the Letters Patent granted to
us by Her Majesty, dated Sixteenth August, One thousand eight hundred and
sixty, No. 1987. In order to explain this peculiar arrangement we refer to
Diagrams 33, 34, which shows one of the various ways in which we have
hitherto manufactured these fast-pile fabrics. No. 33 shows the two back
weft threads or binders and the two series of 5 face weft floats, each in the
succession in which they are interwoven with the warp threads; and form
Diagram 34, which represents a top view of the fabric when woven, it will be
seen that the two series of 5 face weft floats each which occur in this com-
B

page_text: bination completely cover the first back weft thread or binder in the manner
and for the reason explained before, and therefore form a kind of welt or roll
of face weft floats running at right angles from selvage to selvage, which
consecutive welts or rolls of face weft floats are divided from each other by
the 2nd back weft thread or binder which remains uncovered by the face weft
floats, and which is the conspicuous because it acts as a division of these welts
or rolls of 10 face weft floats. Now by reducing these welts or rolls of face
weft floats to only one series of 5 such face weft floats, and discarding the
back weft thread or binder which lies underneath these welts or rolls of face
weft floats, these welts or rolls become smaller and less conspicuous, and
although they still remain divided from each other by the remaining back weft
thread or binder, yet the nicks produced by this remaining back weft thread
or binder get much closer together and assume a more regular character, in
consequence of which the nicky appearance running at right angles from
selvage to selvage becomes less apparent, though it is not exactly obviated.
It will however be seen, from what has been said, that by discarding one of
the 2 back weft threads or binders, which are both necessary for the formation
of a firm and close back, this independent firm and close back is lost, and the
warp threads are only kept together by the interweaving down, up and down
of every face weft float with 3 of such warp threads, and for this reason this
peculiar arrangement is only applicable to fast-pile fabrics, as named above.
For the better understanding of this arrangement of warp and weft threads we
refer to Diagram 35, which represents a top view of such a fast-pile fabric,
consisting of combinations of 10 warp threads with 6 weft threads, with only
one back weft thread or binder in every such combination. Of course many
other combinations of warp and weft threads may be produced upon this plan,
but all upon the principle of our Letters Patent as aforesaid for fast-pile
fabrics, dated Sixteenth August One thousand eight hundred and sixty-one,
No. 1987.
Having thus described the nature of the first part of our Invention for
obviating or modifying the nicky appearance running at right angles from
selvage to selvage in the above-described fabrics, we now proceed to describe
the nature of the second part thereof for obviating or modifying the cordy or
ribby appearance running parallel with the selvages in tabby or plain back
velvets of all sorts, as well as the diagonal nick in twilled back velvets and
velveteens. We intend, in the first place, to examine the former defect,
namely, the cordy or ribby appearance running parallel with the selvages in
tabby or plain back velvets, explain the cause of the same, and then point out
the remedy for obviating it, and we shall confine our remarks to the well

page_text: known combination of 6 warp threads with 8 weft threads, which is usually
employed in the manufacture of tabby or plain back velvets; but our Invention
may be easily adapted to all other combinations of warp threads with weft
threads for the production of fabrics either with a deeper or longer plush or
pile or with comparatively fast pile, as named before. We have already
explained the manner of producing the plain back of these fabrics by means of
back weft threads or binders as well as that of producing the surface by series
of face weft floats, we therefore have now only to shew these back weft
threads or binders in combination with these series of face weft floats in order
to explain the cause of the cordy or ribby appearance produced by this
connexion. For this purpose we refer to Diagram 36, which represents a top
view of the usual make of tabby or plain back velvets when woven, consisting
of combinations of 6 warp threads with 8 warp threads, and contains 3 times 3
or 9 such combinations, showing the consecutive series of face weft floats in
different colors. Of these 8 weft threads of every individual combination the
1st is a back weft thread or binder covered by the first face weft float of the
succeeding series of face weft floats; then follow the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd face
weft floats, which complete the first series, colored blue in the 1st three com-
binations, yellow in the 2nd three combinations, and crimson in the 3rd three
combinations. After this first series of three face weft floats follow the 2nd
back weft thread or binder, colored black (the warp threads in every instance
showing white), which back weft thread or binder neither slips under the
preceding face weft float nor is covered by the succeeding one, and therefore
produces the nick running at right angles from selvage to selvage. After the
2nd back weft thread or binder follows the second series of 3 face weft floats,"
colored red in the first three combinations, green in the 2nd three combina-
tions, and orange in the 3rd three combinations, in every respect like the first
series of three face weft floats, which second series of three face weft floats
completes the combination. The first back weft threads or binder not being
visible on the surface of the fabric is not shewn in the Diagram 36. We
merely indicate its position by representing it as protruding over the top and
bottom side of the Diagram, and colored brown. By attentively examining
this Diagram 36 it will be seen that the 2 series of 3 face weft floats each are
exactly alike in the order in which the individual face weft floats follow each
other in each series, and also in the relative position which the corresponding
face weft floats of each series occupy with respect to the warp threads, the
first face weft float of both series being interwoven with the first warp thread
of the combination, the second face weft float of both series being interwoven
with the third warp thread of the combination, and the third face weft float of

page_text: both series being interwoven with the 5th warp thread of the combination.
It will also be seen from this Diagram that in manufacturing tabby or plain
back velvets in the usual manner, represented by this Diagram, a peculiar
interweaving of the 3rd face weft float of the first series of face weft floats, the
second back weft thread or binder which produces the nick running at right
angles from selvage to selvage, and the first face weft float of the 2nd series of
face weft thread takes place with the 5th and 6th warp threads of the com-
bination, and the first warp thread of the next adjoining combination, pro-
ducing a kind of small diagonal nick where these weft and warp threads and
interwoven with each other, which small diagonal nick is pointed out by × in
the 3 white squares, these white squares representing the places where the
warp threads somewhat appear on the surface of the fabric. It will be noticed
from the Diagram that no other part of the fabric the warp threads appear on
the surface of the same in such close proximity as in the places of these small
diagonal nicks, which, on this combination, as represented by this Diagram,
occur upon the 5th, 6th, and 1st warp threads, the 6th warp thread being the
centre of the same. By means of this peculiar interweaving of warp and wef
threads occurring only on these 3 warp threads of every combination, and not
on the other 3 warp threads, the 2 face weft floats preceding and succeeding
the 2nd back wef thread or binder lies between them are, by the force of the slay
or batten of the loom, driven up close against this intervening back wef thread or
binder, which back wef tbread or binder, on account of lying just in the reversed
position with respect to the 5th and 1st warp threads with which these face weft
floats are interwoven, causes a tighter interweaving of these 2 face weft floats
with the 5th and 1st warp threads of every combination, the 6th warp thread
crossing them in the reversed position as above described. Now, has this closer
on each side of
or tighter interweaving of warps and wef threads takes place only
the 6th warp thread of every combination, and does not occur in connection
with any other warp thread, a tight race is thus formed between the surface
and the back of the fabric by the 6th warp thread on account of this closer
and tighter interweaving of warp threads occurring in every succeeding com-
bination throughout the length of the piece. This fact is well known to the
practical fustian cutter who is well aware that in the make of tabby or plain
velvets, of which we are now speaking, every 3rd race is tighter than the
other 2 (2 warp threads being required for the formation of a race in this
fabric). In the same manner in tabby or plain back velvets, consisting of
combinations of 8 warp threads with wef threads, every 4th race is tighter
than the other 3, and in such plain back velvets consisting of combinations o
10 warp threads with wef threads, every 5th race is tighter than the other 4

page_text: and the same in several descriptions of fast pile plain back fabrics as will be
seen from Diagram 36, this tight interweaving of the warp and wef threads on
both sides of the 6th warp thread, which produces the tight race, is visible on
the surface of the fabric, the smail diagonal × nick named before running
down lengthway of the piece upon the 6th warp thread of every combination,
and thus occasioning the cordy or ribby appearance, running parallel with the
selvages once in every series of warp threads, of which the combination is
composed. Now, by again examining Diagram 36, it will be noticed that
these tight races, and, therefore, also the cordy or ribby appearances arise from
the back wef threads or binders, which cause the nicky appearance running
from selvage to selvage, being preceded and succeeded always by the same
2 face weft floats. In consequence of the regularity and uniformity of every
individual series of face weft floats introduced between each 2 consecutive
back weft threads or binders in every such combination, for instance, in the
usual description of tabby or plain back velvet, as represented by Diagram 36.
the 2nd back wef thread or binder, which causes the nick, running at right
angles from selvage to selvage, is invariably preceded in every combination of
the 3rd face weft float of the series, which in every instance is interwoven with
the 5th warp thread, and it is invariably succeeded by the 1st face weft float
of the series, which in every instance is interwoven with the 1st warp thread
of the combination, the 2 series of face weft floats which occur in this com-
bination being fully alike in the manner in which the individual face weft
floats follow each other, and in the relative position which the corresponding
face weft floats of every series occupy with respect to the warp threads with
which they are interwoven. The same remarks apply to other descriptions of
tabby or plain back velvets consisting of combinations of more than six warp
threads, both loose and fast pile fabrics, which, on account of the regularity
and uniformity of every individued series of face weft floats, are more or less
subject to this ribby or cordy appearance, running parallel with the selvages.
'
From what has been said it will be obvious that the regularity and
uniformity of the undivided series floats, weft floats is the chief cause of the
tight races, as described before, and the remedy constitutes the second part of
an Invention, viz., we obviate or modify the cordy or ribby appearance running
parallel with the selvages in tabby or plain back velvets of all soils by an
arrangement of the face weft floats with the back weft threads or binders,
whereby we more or less break the regularity and uniformity of the series of
face weft floats occurring between each two of those back weft threads or
binders, which cause the nicky appearance running at right angles from
selvage to selvage, and thus prevent the said back weft threads or binders,.

page_text: which cause such nick, from being preceded and succeeded in every instance
by the same tivo face weft floats. By means of this arrangement we are
enabled to produce a tight race upon every alternate warp thread in the com-
binations, and by this preventing one race from being tighter than another,
we remove the cordy or ribby appearance of the fabrics. In order to explain
this improvement we again refer to Diagram 36, which represents nine com-
binations of six warp threads with-eight weft threads in conjunction. From
what has been said before, three tight races must therefore be perceptible
in this nine-fold combination, producing two cordy or ribby appearances,
running parallel with the selvages, and lying between the places where these
three tight races occur, which latter are pointed out in the Diagram by X in
the small diagonal nicks of white squares, which represent the warp threads,
as before stated. These tight races occur in connection with the sixth warp
thread of every individual combination, and therefore are only perceptible on
the sixth, twelfth, and eighteenth warp threads of this Diagram. The centres
of the small diagonal nicks occasioned by the intervening of the warp and
weft threads in these particular places, as named before, being invariably on
these three warp threads only, which, by being continued throughout the
length of the piece on the same warp threads naturally produce. three tight
races, and two of the cordy or ribby appearances complained of. From this
Diagram it will also be seen that the twenty-four weft threads which are there
represented follow each other in the following order: First, the first back
weft thread or binder of the first combination, colored brown, which is covered
over by the face weft floats, and is only visible on the back of the fabric.
Second, the first series of three face weft floats of the first combination, colored
blue. Third, the second back weft thread or binder of the first combination,
colored black, which occasions the nicky appearance running at right angles
from selvage to selvage. Fourth, the second series of three face weft floats of
the first combination, colored, being exactly like the first series of three face
weft floats of the combination. Fifth, the first back weft thread or binder of
the second combination, colored brown, which is covered over by the face weft
floats, and is only visible on the back of the fabric. Sixth, the first series of
3 face weft floats of the 2nd combination, colored yellow, being exactly like the
1st series of 3 face weft floats of the 3 face weft floats of the 1st combination.
Seventh, the 2nd back weft thread or binder of the 2nd combination, colored
black, which occasions the nicky appearance running at right angles from
selvage to selvage. Eight, the 2nd series of 3 face weft floats of the 2nd com-
bination, colored green, being exactly like the 1st and 2nd series of the 1st com-
bination. Ninth, the 1st back weft thread or binder of the 3rd combination,

page_text: colored brown, which is covered over
the face weft floats, and is only visible
on the back of the fabric. Tenth, the 1st series of the 3 face weft floats of the
3rd combination, colored crimson, being exactly like the 1st series of 3 face
weft floats of the 1st and 2nd combinations. Eleventh, the 2nd back weft
thread or binder of the 3rd combination, colored black, which occasions the
nicky appearance running at right angles from selvage to selvage. Twelfth,
the 2nd series of 3 face weft floats of the 3rd combination, colored orange, being
exactly like the first and 2nd series of 3 face weft floats of the 1st and 2nd com-
binations. We have, therefore, represented in this Diagram in all 6 consecutive
series of 3 face weft floats, each perfectly alike, both regular in the succession
or order in which the individual face weft floats which constitute the series
follow each other, and uniform in their relative position with respect to the
warp threads, the first face weft float of every series being interwoven with
the 1st warp thread of every combination, the 2nd face weft float of every
series being interwoven with the 3rd warp thread of every combination, and
the 3rd face weft float of every series being interwoven with the 5th warp
thread of every description. In order more easily to explain our improvement
we have distinguished the 6 series of 3 weft floats each by different colors,
blue, red, yellow, green, crimson, and orange.
Now, the principle of our Invention for removing the cordy or ribby
appearance running parallel with the selvages in tabby or plain back velvets,
consists in breaking the regularity or uniformity of the series of face weft
floats occurring between any 2 consecutive back weft threads or binders, or
of any 2 or more of such series of face weft floats occurring between 2
of those back weft threads or binders which cause the nick running at right
angles from selvage to selvage, and especially in interweaving the 1st face
weft float of the series of face weft floats succeeding any 1 of those back
weft threads or binders which cause the nick running at right angles from
selvage to selvage with another warp thread or warp threads, than that or
those with which the 1st face weft float of the series of face weft floats,
succeeding the previous 1 of those back weft threads or binders which cause
the nick referred to, has been interwoven, though in other respects the regu-
larity of such series of face weft floats may be preserved or not. We therefore
proceed upon this plan in making a new arrangement of the 6 series of face
weft floats in Diagram 86, by more or less breaking then regularity or uni-
formity, as indicated above, which may be done in various ways, for instance,
as follows:-1. We leave the 1st series of 3 face weft floats colored blue
exactly as it is, but instead of interweaving the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd floor weft
floats of the 2nd series of face weft floats in the 1st combination, colored red,

page_text: with the 1st, 3rd, and 5th warp threads respectively of such combination, we
interweave the 1st face weft float of this 2nd series with the 3rd 'warp thread,
the 2nd face weft float with the fifth warp thread, and the 3rd face weft float
with the 1st warp thread of the combination. Then instead of interweaving
the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd face weft floats of the 1st series of face weft floats in the
second combination colored yellow, with the 1st, 3rd and 5th warp threads
respectively of such combination, we interweave them with the 5th, 1st, and
3rd warp threads respectively. The 2nd series of 3 face weft floats of the
second combination colored green we again leave exactly as it is, but instead
of interweaving the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd face weft floats of the 1st series of face
weft floats in the 3rd combination colored crimson with the 1st, 3rd, and 5th
warp threads respectively of such combination, we interweave them with the
3rd, 5th, and 1st warp threads respectively, and at last instead of interweaving
the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd face weft floats of the 2nd series of face weft floats in
the 3rd combination, colored orange, with the 1st, 3rd, and 5th warp threads
respectively of such combination, we interweave them with the 5th, 1st, and
3rd warp threads respectively. This finishes the new arrangement, and all
succeeding 6 series of face weft floats are only repetitions of the 6 we have
described. The back weft threads or binders remaining exactly as they were,
so that in order to carry out this new arrangement of the face weft floats with
the back weft threads or binders, a combination of 6 warp threads with 24
weft threads is required, 6 of which are back weft threads or binders, and 18
are face weft floats. This new arrangement of the face weft floats with the
back weft threads or binders is represented by Diagram 37, from which it will
be seen that although the regularity of succession or order in which the 3 face
weft floats of every series of such face weft floats follow each other is preserved,
yet the uniformity of their position with respect to the warp threads between
any 2 consecutive back weft threads or binders is broken, and especially that
the interweaving of the 1st face weft float of the series of face weft floats
succeeding any 1 of those back weft threads, which cause the nick running at
right angles from selvage to selvage, takes place with another warp thread
than that with which the 1st face weft float of the series of face weft floats
succeeding the previous 1 of those back weft threads or binders which cause
the nick referred to been interwoven. Now by attentively examining this
Diagram 37 it will be seen that although the small diagonal nicks which have
been marked by X on the white squares representing warp threads in
Diagram 36 have not disappeared, yet they now do not exclusively occur in
connexion with the 6th warp thread, as is the case in Diagram 36, where
there are 3 such small diagonal nicks visible on the 6th warp thread only of

page_text: every combination, while it will be seen from Diagram 37 that through this
new arrangement of face weft floats, only 1 of these three small diagonal
nicks in a reversed position occurs in connexion with the 6th warp thread, the
1st occurring in connexion with the 4th warp thread, the 2nd in connexion
with the 2nd warp thread, and the 3rd in connexion with the 6th warp thread
of the combination; this shews that one race in this new combination is now
as light as another, and therefore the cordy or ribby appearance running
parallel with the selvages is avoided.
2nd. We produce a similar result by leaving the first series of 3 face weft
floats of the 1st combination colored blue exactly as it is, then we interweave
the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd face weft floats of the 2nd series of face weft floats in the
1st combination colored red, and also the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd face weft floats
of the first series of face weft floats in the 2nd combination colored yellow
with the 5th, 1st, and 3rd warp threads respectively of such combination. Next
we interweave the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd face weft floats of the 2nd series of face
weft floats in the second combination colored green, and also the 1st, 2nd, and
3rd face weft floats of the 1st series of face weft floats in the 3rd combination.
colored crimson with the 3rd, 5th, and 1st warp threads respectively of such com-
bination. And, lastly, we leave the 2nd series of 3 face weft floats of the 3rd
combination, colored orange, exactly as it is, which therefore is exactly like the
1st series of 3 face weft floats of the first combination. This finishes the new
arrangement, and all succeeding 6 series of face weft floats are only repetitions
of the 6 we have described. This new arrangement again constitutes a
combination of 6 warp threads with 24 weft threads, same as the preceding
one, and is represented by Diagram 38, from which it will be seen that altho'
the regularity of succession or order in which the 6 individual face weft floats
of every double series of such face weft floats follow each other is preserved,
yet the uniformity of their position with respect to the warp threads between
every 2 of those back weft threads or binders, which cause the nick running
at right angles from selvage to selvage is broken, and especially that the
interweaving of the. 1st face weft float of the series of face weft floats succeed-
ing any one of those back weft threads or binders which cause the nick
running at right angles from selvage to selvage, takes place with another
warp thread than that with which the 1st face weft float of the series of face
weft floats succeeding the previous 1 of those back weft threads or binders
which cause the nick referred to has been interwoven. By attentively
examining. this Diagram 38, it will be seen that the small diagonal nicks
which have been marked by X in the white squares, representing warp
threads in Diagram 36, 37, have entirely disappeared, and have been

page_text: replaced by a diamond-shaped configuration or interweaving of warp and weft
threads, which is indicated by X in the white squares representing warp
threads, which diamond-shaped configurations occur once in connexion with
every alternate warp thread, as will be clearly seen by examining this Diagram.
This shews that one race in this new combination is as tight as another, and
therefore the cordy or ribby appearance running parallel with the selvages is
avoided.
After having thus minutely described the new arrangement of the face weft
floats with the back weft threads or binders, by means of which we obviate the
cordy or ribby appearance running parallel with the selvage in tabby or plain
back velvets, consisting of combinations of 6 warp threads with 24 weft
threads, as laid down in Diagrams 37 and 38, it will be unnecessary to
enlarge upon any other ways of carrying out the principle of our Invention for
removing or modifying the cordy or ribby appearance running parallel with
the selvages in tabby or plain back velvets, especially as this rearrangement of
the face weft float with the back weft threads or binders admits of an almost
endless variety of adaptation. We therefore merely refer now to the following
Diagrams which illustrates a few other varieties of such adaptation, namely,
Diagram 39 represents a top view of 3 combinations of 6 warp threads with
24 weft threads, in which not only the uniformity of the position of the three
individual face weft floats of every series of face weft floats with respect to
the warp threads between any 2 consecutive back weft threads or binders is
broken, but also the regularity of succession or order in which the 3 individual
face weft floats of every series of such face weft floats follow each other. Dia-
grams 40 and 41 represent 2 top views of 3 combinations of 8 warp threads with
40 weft threads, and show the manner in which the cordy or ribby appearance
in plain back velvets, consisting of combinations of 8 warp threads with
weft threads, and requiring 4 face weft floats to every back weft thread or
binder may be removed. In Diagram 40, the individual 4 face weft floats of
every series of face weft floats follow each other in regular succession with
respect to their being interwoven with alternate warp threads, while in Dia-
gram 41 these individual 4-face weft floats of every such series follow each
other in a skipping or irregular manner, with respect to them being inter-
woven with the warp threads, which may be done in many different ways; but
care must be taken that one of the individual 4 face weft floats of the series
of between 2 consecutive back weft threads or binders be interwoven with
every alternate warp thread; also that the 4 individual face weft floats which
precede those 4 back weft threads or binder of this combination, which cause
the nick running at right angles from selvage to selvage, be every one inter-

page_text: woven with a different warp thread; and also that the 4 individual face weft
floats, which succeed those 4 back weft threads or binders already named, be
likewise every one interwoven with a different warp thread. The same prin-
ciple of breaking the regularity and uniformity of the series of face weft floats
5 may easily be adapted to all other combinations of more than 6
warp threads
with weft threads. Generally speaking, the larger the combinations of warp
and weft threads are in their original state, the greater number of weft
threads will it require in the new combination, in order fully to carry out our
Invention for obviating or modifying the cordy or ribby appearance running
parallel with the selvages in tabby or plain back velvet; for instance, in order
to carry out this improvement to its full extent in such fabrics, consisting
originally of combinations of 6 warp threads with 8 weft threads, of which 2
are back weft threads or binders, and 6 are face weft floats comprised in 2
equal series of 3 face weft floats each, it will require a combination of 6 warp
threads with 3 x 8 = 24 weft threads, in order to carry out this improvement or
combination of 8 warp threads with 10 weft threads, of which 2 are back weft
threads or binders, and 8 are face weft floats comprised in 2 equal series of 4
face weft floats each, it will require a combination of 8 warp threads with
4 x 10 or 40 weft threads; and in order to carry out this improvement in com-
binations of 10 warp threads or binders, and 10 are face weft floats comprised
in 2 equal series of 5 face weft floats each, it will require a combination of 10
warp threads with 5 × 12 = 60 weft threads, and so on, in proportion for
larger combinations. Altho', generally speaking, these adaptations, as we have
explained, produce long combinations of warp thread with many weft threads
before an exact repetition takes place in weaving, there are, however, some
particular makes of tabby or plain back velvets, which make an exception, of
which we give an example in Diagrams 42 and 43, which represent top views
of a comparatively fast pile fabric consisting of combinations of 12 warp threads
and 10 weft threads, in which this breaking the uniformity and regularity of the
2 series of face weft floats in the combinations a fabric is produced compara-
ratively free from the nicky appearance running at right angles from selvage
to selvage, as well as from the cordy or ribby appearance running parallel with
the selvages. Diagram 42 shews the back weft threads or binders of the com-
bination in the places where they are put in during the process of weaving;
and Diagram 43 represents a top view of the fabric, when woven with the
face weft floats lying closely together and covering the back weft threads or
binders, which are only visible on the back of the fabric, as before explained.
As the long combinations of warp threads with many weft threads require
arger tappets or other mechanical contrivances, in order to carry them out

page_text: than those which are generally made use of in velvet or fustian looms, for
instance, jacquard or similar machines, they may, for the purpose of increas-
ing the facility of weaving be reduced into smaller compass by breaking them
off at the end of any part of the combination, consisting of 2 back weft
threads or binders, with their full complement of 2 series of face weft floats,
each such series of face weft floats consisting either of 3, 4, 5, or more indi-
vidual face weft floats, as the case may be. For instance, in the 3 Diagrams
No. 37, 38, and 39, representing combinations of 6 warp threads, with 24 weft
threads, the number of the latter may be reduced to 16, by leaving out 3rd part
of the whole number of weft threads, namely, 2 consecutive back weft threads
or binders, and 2 consecutive series of 3 face weft floats, each occurring in
combination with former. In the 2 Diagrams 40 and 41, representing com-
binations of 8 warp threads with 40 weft threads; the number of the latter
may be reduced to 30 by leaving out th part of the whole number of weft
threads, viz., 2 consecutive back weft threads or binders, and 2 consecutive
series of 4 face weft floats, each occurring in combination with the former,
or it may be reduced to 20 by leaving out of the whole number of
weft threads, namely, 4 back weft threads or binders, with the 4 series of
face weft floats occurring in combination with the former, and in a
similar manner; all other long combinations of warp weft threads may be
reduced. However, by adopting these reductions the cordy or ribby appear-
ance running parallel with the salvages will not be entirely removed, but
only modified. This new arrangement of the face weft floats with the back
weft threads or binders, which we have now described, also acts of itself
as an improvement for modifying the nicky appearance running at right
angles from selvage to selvage in tabby or plain back velvet, although
not for entirely removing it, if the arrangement is made in such a manner
that the 1st face weft float of the series of face weft floats following any one of
those back weft threads or binders which cause the nick referred to be inter-
woven with the same warp thread in loose pile fabrics or with the same 3 or
more warp threads in fast pile fabrics as that or those with which the last faco
weft float of the series of face floats preceding the same back weft thread or
binder has been interwoven. This principle is represented in Diagrams 38,
39, 40, and 41, where it will be seen that the small diagonal nicks named
before, and which are indicated by X on the whole squares in Diagrams 36
and 37 have disappeared, and that a kind of diamond-shaped interweaving of
the weft threads with the warp threads has taken place instead, on account
of the 2 face weft floats preceding and succeeding the intervening back weft
thread or binder, being interwoven with the same warp thread, which we have

page_text: also indicated by X in the white squares, as named before. As this is just
the very spot in which, by the crossed interweaving of the back weft threads
or binders with the warp threads, the nicky appearance running at right
angles from selvage to selvage is produced, this interweaving of the 2 face
5 weft floats with the same warp thread, one before and the other after, the
intervening back weft thread or binder has a tendency to cover this latter in a
greater degree than if this interweaving of the preceding and succeeding face
weft floats took place with different warp threads, and therefore, although it
does not entirely remove the nick running at right angles from selvage to
selvage, it modifies it to some extent. For the same reason, as stated above,
this peculiar arrangement has also a tendency of making the cordy or ribby
appearance running parallel with the selvages less perceptible, and therefore
it is especially applicable in those instances in which it is not intended entirely
to remove it, but only to modify it by reducing the number of weft threads in
combination with the warp threads, as named before.
As this peculiar arrangement has, therefore, the double advantage of
modifying the nick running at right angles from selvage to selvage, as well of
modifying the cordy or ribby appearance running parallel with the selvages, it
constitutes of itself an improvement which is applicable to every description
of tabby or plain back velvets, whether loose or fast pile, without increasing
the number of weft threads in combination with the warp threads. In order
to exemplify this, we refer to Diagrams 44 and 45, of which Diagram 44
represents a top view of 9 combinations of 6 warp threads with 8 weft threads,
and Diagram 45 a top view of 9 combinations of 8 warp threads with 10
weft threads. In like manner this principle may be adapted to all other
combinations of 6 or more warp threads with weft threads. It will be
observed in these Diagrams 44 and 45 that the small diagonal nick of
which every 6th warp threads was the centre, as named before, has been
changed into a diamond-shaped configuration or interweaving of warp and
weft threads which are indicated by X in the white squares representing
the warp threads. These last named combinations of warp and weft threads,
the principle of which may be adapted to any description of tabby or plain
back velvet as named before, present no additional difficulties in weaving, but
they partake of the nature or principle of our Invention, as they are all new
arrangements of the face weft floats with the back weft threads or binders
by which the regularity or uniformity of the series of face weft floats
occurring between any 2 consecutive back weft threads or binders is more or
less broken, and they are therefore improvements upon the plan hitherto
pursued in the manufacture of tabby or plain back velvets.

page_text: Our Invention for obviating or modifying the nick running at right angles
from selvage to selvage by manufacturing the fabrics with a rubbed back or
with a reversed twill, or a fancy or figured back, does also in some combi-
nations act of itself as a remedy for obviating or modifying the cordy or ribby
appearance running parallel with the selvages, without requiring the additional
remedy of a new arrangement of the face weft floats with the back weft
threads or binders, in order to break the regularity or uniformity of the
series of face weft floats, as described. In like manner, our Invention for
obviating or modifying the cordy or ribby appearance running parallel with
the selvages by a new arrangement of the face weft floats with the back weft
threads or binders in order to break the regularity or uniformity of the series
of face weft floats, as described, does also in some combinations act of itself
as a remedy for obviating or modifying the nick running at right angles from
selvage to selvage, without acquiring the additional remedy of a ribbed
reversed twill or fancy back; but whenever one of these remedies alone will
not produce the desired effect of obviating or modifying both these defects at
the same time, this result may be more or less obtained by combining the two
remedies, namely, making the fabric with a ribbed reversed twill, or fancy
or figured back, and at the same time with a new arrangement of the face
weft floats with the back weft threads or binders in order to break the regu-
larity or uniformity of the series of face weft floats occurring between any 2 or
more of such back weft threads or binders, as described. This combination of
both our improvements we have already explained, when describing the effect
producing the reversed 3 leaf twill back in Diagrams 31 and 32; and it may
easily be carried into effect with respect to any other combination of warp and
weft threads in the manner well known to the practical designer of weavers'
drafts and patterns.
.
Having thus fully explained and described the causes of the nicky appearance
running at right angle from selvage to selvage, and of the cordy or ribby
appearance running parallel with the selvages in tabby or plain back velvets,
as well as the manner in which we obviate or modify these 2 defects, it
remains for us to pursue the same course with respect to the 3rd defect we
have named, namely, the nicky or twilly appearance running diagonally
from selvage to selvage across the piece in twilled back velveteens and velvets,
which only become visible after these fabrics have been cut. Having already
explained the various methods which have hitherto been employed for forming
or constructing the different descriptions of twill or Genoa back, as well as the
manner in which the face weft floats which are required for the formation of
the plush or pile, have hitherto been interwoven with the warp threads of the

page_text: back of these fabrics, it will be unnecessary to go over the same ground again.
We shall therefore now confine our remarks to the usual make of twilled
back velveteens or velvets, consisting of combinations of 6 warp threads
with 9 weft threads, and endeavor to explain the nature, as well as to trace
the cause of the nicky or twilly appearance running diagonally from selvage to
selvage across the piece, which only becomes visible in these fabrics after the
same have been cut. For this purpose we refer to Diagram 46, which
represents a top view of 9 combinations of the usual make of velveteens,
consisting of 6 warp threads with 9 weft threads, and shews the manner in.
which the back weft threads or binders are introduced between the face, weft,
floats, not between the complete series of three face weft floats, each required,
in this fabric for the formation of the plush or pile, but between each 2 conse-
cutive face weft floats of the 2 sides of the face weft floats, with 2 series in
other respects are perfectly alike, as explained before. By attentively ex-.
amining this Diagram 46, it will be seen that the 3rd face weft float of the
2nd series of face weft floats, which is the 9th or last weft thread of the
combination, and therefore on account of one combination being joined up, to
the other, becomes the face weft that preceding the 1st back weft thread or
binder, is interwoven with the 5th warp thread, which therefore must be
raised at the time this interweaving takes place, also that the 1st face weft
float of the 1st series of face weft floats, is interwoven with the first warp
thread, which therefore must be raised at the time this interweaving takes.
place, and finally that when the 1st back weft thread or binder is interwoven.
with the warp threads, both the fifth and the 1st warp threads already named,
must be raised likewise. From this fact it follows, as explained before, that
the 3rd face weft float of the second series of face weft floats and the first face-
weft float of the 1st series of face weft floats, slip over the first back weft
thread or binder, and completely cover it in the process of weaving, so that
this first back weft thread or binder is not at all visible on the surface, but
only on the back of the fabric. The same circumstance occurs with respect
to the second back weft thread or binder, which is covered in the process of
weaving by the second and third face weft floats of the first series of face weft
floats, on account of the 3rd and 5th warp threads, with which these 2 face
weft floats are interwoven, being raised also at the time of interweaving the
2nd back weft thread or binder with the warp threads, and again the third
back weft thread or binder is covered by the 1st and second face weft floats
of the second series of face weft floats, on account of the 1st and 3rd warp
threads, with which these 2 face weft floats are interwoven, being raised
also at the time of interweaving the 3rd back weft thread or binder with

page_text: the warp threads. None of the back weft threads or binders are therefore
visible on the surface of these fabrics when woven, but only on the back of
the same;
all the face weft floats meeting closely together, and therefore
producing a very level surface free from nicks, running at right angles from
selvage to selvage, as well as from the cordy or ribby appearance running parallel
with the selvage. The absence of this cordy or nicky appearance will also be
obvious from the absence of the small diagonal nicks named before as
occurring in connection with the 6th warp thread, which on some Diagrams
have been marked with x in the white squares as stated before. The close
and level surface of face weft floats of the usual make of velveteens is
represented by Diagram 47, in which the position of the back weft threads
or binders on the back of the fabric is only indicated by representing them as
protruding from the top and bottom sides of the Diagram. In this Diagram 47,
the perfect regularity and uniformity of the two series of face weft floats of
which the combination consists, is very apparent, which fact it will be neces-
sary to bear in mind. Although this fabric appears to be so free from nicks
and cordy or ribby appearances, yet after it has been made to undergo the
process of cutting a nicky or twilly appearance, running diagonally from sel-
vage to selvage across the piece becomes very conspicuous, and it is this defect
which we modify by our Invention. In order to ascertain the cause of this
defect, we again refer to Diagrams 46 and 47, in which it will be seen that the
interweaving of the face weft floats, takes place with every alternate warp thread.
As the combination for weaving these fabrics consists of 6 warp threads, it there-
fore follows that the interweaving of the face weft floats must take place either
with the 1st, 3rd, and 5th warp threads, or else with the 2nd, 4th, and 6th
warp threads of every combination, thus producing three distinct races for
cutting in every combination, and if the plush or pile is to be complete when
cut, every one of such 3 alternate warp threads must have one face weft float
interwoven with it between each two consecutive back weft threads or binders.
This would necessitate the introduction of one complete series of 3 face weft
floats between every two consecutive back weft threads or binders, which,
however is not the c se in the usual make of these fabrics, which, as
already described and as shewn by Diagram 46 have only got 2 face weft
floats introduced between each 2 consecutive back weft threads or binders.
From this Diagram 46 it will be seen that the first and second face weft floats
of the first series of face weft floats, which are introduced between the 1st
and 2nd back weft threads or binders are interwoven with the first and third
warp threads of the combination respectively; consequently, after cutting the
plush or pile produced by these 2 face weft floats will be so to speak, planted

page_text: on or rather half round these two warp threads, half the plush or pile produced
by one face weft float sticking up on one side, and the other half of such
plush or pile sticking up on the other side of the warp thread with which it has
been interwoven, but as there is no face weft float interwoven with the 5th warp
thread of the combination between the first and second back weft threads or
binders, it follows, that after cutting no plush or pile is planted on or half round
the 5th warp thread between these 2 consecutive back weft threads or binders,
so that a gap is produced in the plush or pile in this particular place on the
fifth warp thread after the fabric has been cut, especially, as by this want of
intervening pile in connection with the 5th warp thread, the 1st and 2nd back
weft threads or binders come into close contact in this particular place, which
makes the gap in the plush or pile still more conspicuous. We have marked
the places where this gap occurs after cutting on the 5th warp thread with a ✪
in Diagram 47. The same circumstance occurs again with respect to the 3rd
face weft float of the first series, and the 1st face weft float of the 2nd series
of face weft floats, which are the only two face weft floats introduced between
the 2nd and 3rd back weft threads or binders; these 2 face weft floats aro
interwoven with the 5th and 1st warp threads of the combination respectively,
consequently the 3rd warp thread of the combination gocs without its share of
plush or pile between the 2nd and third back weft threads, therefore a gap is
produced in the plush or pile in this particular place on the 3rd warp thread
of the combination indicated again by a O in Diagram 47. In like manner
the 2nd and 3rd face weft floats of the 2nd series of face weft floats are the
only 2 face weft floats introduced between the 3rd back weft thread or binder
of one combination, and the first back weft thread or binder of the succeeding
combination; these 2 face weft floats are interwoven with the 3rd and 5th warp
threads of the combination respectively, consequently the first warp thread of the
combination goes without its share of plush or pile between the 3rd back weft
thread or binder of one combination, and the first back weft thread or binder
of the succeeding combination, and therefore a gap is produced in the plush or
pile in this particular place on the first warp thread of the combination
indicated again by a O in Diagram 47, all the nine combinations in Diagram 47,
having been marked in this manner, it proves that these gaps in the plush or
pile assume a diagonal direction from selvage to selvage across the price, which
gives the surface the diagonally nicky or twilly appearance complained of. It
therefore is evident that this diagonal nick which becomes only visible in twilled
back velveteens and velvets after the fabrics have been cut, arises mainly from
the usual manner of manufacturing these fabrics with only 2 face weft floats
between every two consecutive back weft threads or binders in the usual com-

page_text: bination of 6 warp threads with 9 weft threads, or generally speaking with a
less number of face weft floats between each 2 consecutive back weft threads
or binders than the number of races in every combination of 6 or more warp
threads with 9 or more weft threads. Attempts have therefore been made to
remedy this defect by introducing a complete series of 3 face weft floats between
each 2 consecutive back weft threads or binders, thus producing a combi-
nation of 6 warp threads, of which 3 are back weft threads or binders, and 9.
are face weft floats consisting of 3 series or 3 face weft floats each, as
shewn on Diagram 48, which procedure certainly fills up the diagonal gap
in the plush or pile; but as the old method of regularity and uniformity of
all the series of face weft floats has been preserved, a fabric has thus been
produced, which shews both the other defects complained of, namely, the
nicks running at right angles from selvage to selvage, as well as the cordy
or ribby appearance running parallel with the selvages. This will become.
clear by attentively examining this Diagram 48, from which it will be seen
that the 1st back weft thread or binder will be entirely covered by the
preceding 3rd face weft float of the 3rd series of face weft floats, and by the
succeeding first face weft float of the first series of face weft floats, so that the
first series of 3 face weft floats of one combination, and the 3rd series of 3 face
weft floats of the preceding combination, form a kind of welt or roll of 6 face
weft floats, running at right angles from selvage to selvage, as explained before.
The second back weft thread or binder of the combination will certainly partly
slip under the 3rd face weft float of the first series of face weft floats, the places
where this takes place being marked with a horizontal stroke in the Diagram 48;
but as the first face weft float of the second series of face weft floats cannot
assist to cover the second back weft thread or binder as was the case with
respect to the first back weft thread or binder, this first face weft float of the
second series of face weft floats being interwoven with the first warp thread,
which is lowered when the second back weft thread or binder is interwoven
with the warp threads; this second back weft thread or binder remains partly
visible, and produces a nicky appearance running at right angles from selvage
to selvage. The same is the case with the third back weft thread or binder of
the combination which cannot slip under the 3rd face weft float of the second
series of face weft floats; this face weft float being interwoven with the 5th
warp thread of the combination, which is lowered when the 3rd back weft thread
or binder is interwoven with the warp threads. The succeeding first face weft
float of the third series of face weft floats certainly partly slips over the third
back weft thread or binder marked in the Diagram; but as the preceding
3rd face weft float of the second series of face weft floats cannot assist to cover

page_text: it, as was the case with the first back weft thread or binder, this third back
weft thread or binder remains partly visible and produces a second nicky
appearance, running at right angles from selvage to selvage. Between those
2 nicks lie the 3 face weft floats of the second series of face weft floats, which
are only half the bulk of the welt or roll formed by the 6th face weft floats of
the 1st and 3rd series of face weft floats, as named before which gives the
fabric an unlevel and nicky appearance.
Diagram 49 represents a top view of the surface of 9 combinations of this
description of twilled back velveteens when woven, each combination consisting
of 6 warp threads with 12 feet threads, the position of the first back weft
thread or binder, which is only visible on the back of the fabric, being
indicated in the manner already stated several times. Referring to this
Diagram 49, it will be seen that the small diagonal nicks marked by x in
the white squares which produce the tight races, as explained before, are
plainly visible in connection with the 6th warp thread twice in every com-
bination, which proves that this fabric is subject to the cordy or ribby
appearances running parallel with the selvage. This make of velvetcens
consisting of combinations of 6 warp threads with 12 weft threads, shewing
therefore, more or less, both of the defects complained of, namely, the nick
running at right angles from selvage to selvage, as well as the cordy or ribby
appearance running parallel with the selvages, it is no wonder that it has never
come into use to any extent, but as it has the advantage of filling up the gap
in the plush or pile already described, and therefore modifies the nicky or
twilly appearance running diagonally from selvage to selvage across the piece,
we now improve it by removing the 2 defects named above in manner already
indicated, namely, by a new arrangement of the face weft floats with the back
weft threads or binders, whereby we more or less break the regularity or
uniformity of the series of face weft floats occurring either between each 2
consecutive back weft threads or binders, or between each 2 of those back
wefts threads or binders, which cause the nicky appearance running at right
angles from selvage to selvage. The former of these methods may be carried
out with combinations of 6 warp threads with 12 weft threads, while the
latter will do better with combinations of 6 warp threads with 24 warp threads.
This new arrangement of the face weft floats with the back weft threads or
binders by more or less breaking the regularity or uniformity of the series of
face weft floats occurring between such back weft threads or binders may be
carried out with respect to these twilled back fabrics in various ways in the
same or a similar manner, as already explained when describing the nature of

page_text: our Invention for obviating or modifying the cordy or ribby appearance
running parallel with the selvages in tabby or plain back fabrics. Two of
these new arrangements of face weft floats for twilled back fabrics are
exemplified by Diagram 50 and 51, of which the former represents or top view
of 9 combinations of 6 warp threads with 12 weft threads, in which the
uniformity of all 3 series of face weft floats with respect to their relative
position with the warp threads is broken, and the latter represents or top view
of 6 combinations of 6 warp threads with 24 weft threads, in which 2 series of
face weft floats are perfectly regular and uniform, and the breaking of the
uniformity of such face weft floats with respect to their relative position with
the warp threads only occurs after 2 regular and uniform series of face weft
floats have been completed, both Diagrams shewing the back croft threads or
binders in the respective places in which they are put in during the process
and weaving. From these 2 Diagrams 50 and 51 it will be obvious from the
reasons already stated, that by these new arrangements of the face weft floats
with the back weft threads or binders, all the back weft threads or binders in
these combinations will be completely covered by the preceding and succeeding
face weft floats, and from this circumstance, as well as from the absence of the
small diagonal nicks from both these Diagrams, it follows that in this manner
twilled back fabrics are produced which are quite free from any nicks running
at right angles from selvage to selvage, as well as from any cordy or ribby
appearance running parallel with the selvages. This is shewn in Diagrams 52
and 53, of which No. 52 represents a top view of 9 combinations of 6 warp
threads with 12 weft threads of the surface of the fabric when woven according
to the method indicated by Diagram 50, while No. 53 represents a top view
of 6 combinations of 6 warp threads with 24 weft threads of the surface of the
fabric when woven according to the method indicated by Diagram 51, the
face weft floats in both lying closely together, and fully covering the back weft
threads or binders, which latter are represented in both instances as pro-
truding from the top and bottom of the Diagrams in the places which they
occupy on the back of the fabrics. Although by the method we have described
the gap occasioned by the want of pile on one warp thread between every
consecutive back weft threads or binders is filled up and twilled back fabrics
are produced free from any nicks running at right angles from selvage to
selvage, as well as from any ribby or cordy appearance running parallel with
the selvages, yet the nickey or twilly appearance running diagonally from
selvage to selvage across the piece will thereby only be modified but not
entirely removed for the following reason; by attentively examining Diagram

page_text: 50, it will be seen that the first face weft float of the first series of face weft
floats is interwoven with the first warp thread, and that 4 face weft floats and
one back weft floats and 1 back weft thread or binder intervene before the
next face weft float, namely, the 3rd face weft float of the second series of face
weft floats is interwoven with this first warp thread of the combination so that
the first warp thread is so to speak left bear of pile for this distance, while its
due share of pile is condensed upon the remaining part of it in the combination,
inasmuch as only 1 face weft float and 1 back weft thread or binder intervene
between the interweaving of the 3rd face weft float of the 2nd series of face
weft floats with the first warp thread, and the interweaving of the second face
weft float of the 3rd series of face weft floats with the same warp thread, as
well as between the.interweaving of the last-named face weft floats and the
interweaving of the first face weft float of the first series of faco weft floats in
the succeeding combination; the distances between these 3 face weft floats
which are interwoven with the 1st warp thread of every combination being in
the proportion of 5, 2, and 2. The same circumstance occurs in connection
with the 3rd warp thread of the combination, which is left bare of pile between
the first face weft float of the 3rd series and the 3rd face weft float of the 1st
series of face weft floats in the succeeding combination, and again in connexion
with the 5th warp thread, which is left bare of pile between the first face weft
float of the second series and the 3rd face weft float of the third series of face
weft floats in the combination. We have marked the places where these long
distances occur with a O in Diagram 52, and it will, therefore, be seen, that
the nickey or twilly appearance running diagonally from selvage to selvage
across the piece has not been entirely obviated, for although the main cause of
the same has been removed by introducing a whole series of 3 face weft floats
between every consecutive back weft threads or binders, yet it now assumes
another character, and springs from another source, as just explained, namely,
from the unequal distribution of pile on the warp threads, occasioned by the
unequal distances intervening between the interweaving of the face weft floats
which produce such pile with the warp threads, but notwithstanding this, the
nick running diagonally from selvage to selvage across the piece in twilled
back fabrics, becomes by this new arrangement of the face weft floats with the
back weft threads or binders less discernable, and if not altogether obviated, is
at all events modified. By attentively examining Diagram 51, it will be seen
that this defect of long distances intervening between the interweaving of the
face weft float with the warp threads is in some measure modified, though not
entirely obviated; the distances between the 6 face weft floats, which in this

page_text: combination of 6 warp threads with 24 weft threads have to be interwoven
with every alternate warp thread before the combination is completed, and a
repetition takes place, are in the proportion of 3, 5, 3, 2, 3, and 2; in
Diagram 53 we have marked the long distance where 5 weft threads intervenc
between the interweaving of 2 face weft floats with the same warp thread with
a O, from which it will be seen that the nick running diagonally from selvage
to selvage across the piece in this fabric will be still less perceptible than in a
fabric made according to Diagrams 50 and 52, although such diagonal nick is
not yet entirely obviated. In order still further to remedy this defect, we
have, therefore, to make the new arrangements of face weft floats with the
back weft thread or binders in such a manner that the interweaving of the
face weft floats with the warp threads may take place at still more equal
distances, and this we accomplish by manufacturing twilled back velveteens
and velvet in the manner shewn in Diagram 54, which represents a top view
of 9 combinations of 6 warp threads with 12 weft threads. By this method
we distribute the pile very equally over the surface of the fabric, and although
the back weft threads or binders are not thereby fully covered by the preceding
and succeeding face weft floats, yet as the combination is so arranged that the
first face weft floats of the series of face weft floats following one of those back
weft threads or binders which cause the nick running at right angles from
selvage to selvage is interwoven with the same warp thread as that with which
the last face weft float of the series preceding the same back weft thread or
binder has been interwoven, the nicky appearance running at right angles
from selvage to selvage, which is produced by the face weft floats being pre-
vented from meeting closely together by the intervening back weft thread or
binder is by this arrangement reduced to a minimum, as we have already
explained when treating of this particular point in connexion with the
application of our Invention to tabby or plain back velvets. From Diagram
54 it will be seen that the third face weft float of the first series of face weft
floats is interwoven with the first warp thread of the combination, and that the
first face weft float of the second series of face weft floats is interwoven with
the same first warp thread, these 2 face weft floats being only separated from
each other by the intervening second back weft thread or binder, which they
thus serve to cover in a great measure after the interweaving of the first face
weft float of the second series of face weft floats with the first warp thread;
3 face weft floats and one back weft thread or binder intervene before the
next face weft float, namely, the 2nd face weft float of the 3rd series of
face weft floats is interwoven with the first warp thread of the combination,

page_text: and again 3 face weft floats and 1 back weft thread or binder intervene
before the next interweaving of the third face weft float of the first series
of face weft floats in the succeeding combination takes place with the
first warp thread. The distances between the 3 face weft floats which are
interwoven with the 1st warp thread of every combination are therefore in the
proportion of 1, 4, and 4, the 1 representing merely the second back weft
thread or binder, partly covered by the two face weft floats on each side of it,
while the equal distribution of the face weft floats between this second back
weft thread or binder and the second back weft thread or binder in the suc-
eceding combination, is evident from the third face weft float being interwoven
with the first warp thread at equal distances from the other 2 face weft floats.
The same case occurs in connexion with 3rd and 5th warp threads of the com-
bination, 3 face weft floats being interwoven with every alternate warp thread
in the combination, in exactly the same manner as far as regards the distances
named before. To exemplify this, we refer to Diagram 55, which represents
a top view of 9 combinations of 6 warp threads, with 12 weft threads of a
twilled back velveteen when woven, according to the method laid down in
Diagram 54, leaving out the back weft threads or binders, which, though not
completely yet are partially covered by the face weft floats, and the position of
which back weft threads or binders we have indicated in this Diagram in the
usual manner.
From this Diagram 55 it will be seen that 2 of the face weft
floats which are interwoven with one warp thread are lying closely together
(though, in reality, they are a little separated by the intervening back weft
thread or binder), and that the interweaving of the third face weft float with
the same warp thread takes place at equal distances from both, 3 face weft
floats intervening in both instances. The one long distance marked a ○ on
every alternate warp thread in Diagrams 52 and 53 has therefore been
replaced in Diagram 55 by two equal distances, none of which preponderates
over the other, which shews that by manufacturing the fabrics according
to this method, the plush or pile will be more evenly distributed over the
surface of the same, so that the nick running diagonally from selvage to
selvage across the piece will thereby be considerably modified if not entirely
obviated.
Although we have hitherto spoken only of velveteens and velvets with a
3-leaf twilled back, with the face of the twill showing on the back of the
fabric, and consisting of combinations of 6 warp threads with weft threads, yet
our Invention for modifying the nicky or twilly appearance running diagonally
from selvage to selvage, is also applicable to velveteens and velvets which are
woven with a double twill, 3 and 1 twill, and a 4 and 1 twill, or satin back, or

page_text: any other description of twill back, showing the twill on the back of the fabric
as well as to all twill back velveteens and velvets which consist of combinations
of more than 6 warp threads with weft threads, for which purposes the prin-
ciple of our Invention can easily be adapted to any particular combination of
warp and weft threads by the practical designer of weavers' drafts or patterns.
From all that has been said about the modification of the nicky or twilly
appearance running diagonally from selvage to selvage across the piece in
twilled back velvetcens and velvets, by more or less breaking the regularity
and uniformity of the series of face weft floats, it will be obvious that our
Invention is applied to these fabrics in connexion with the principle of intre-
ducing at least one complete series of face weft floats between every 2 con-
secutive back weft threads or binders, and that in other respects it is carried
out in the same manner as already fully explained when treating of the appli-
cation of our Invention be tabby or plain back velvets, and most of the remarks
therefore which we there made are also applicable to these twilled back fabrics,
except those which relate exclusively to fabrics made with a tabby or plain back.
Having thus pointed out the objects of our Invention, and certain methods
of combining the warp and weft, by which it may be carried into effect, we will,
in order to assist the weaver and to afford a number of examples, refer to a
series of drafts accompanying this our Specification.
WEAVERS' DRAFTS.
A. For producing fabrics in which the nick running at right angles from
selvage to selvage is obviated or modified.
I. By manufacturing such fabrics with a ribbed back, of which every alter-
nate rib consists of 2 warp threads, and the other alternate rib of 1 warp
thread each. Those warp threads which will gradually get slack during the
process of weaving, and which therefore will require to be wound on a separate
beam, are marked with X.
No. 1 and 2, fabrics with a face weft float over 5 warp threads of combi-
nations of 6 warp threads with 8 weft threads and with 6 shafts.
No. 3 and 4, fabrics with a face weft float over 7 warp threads of combi-
nations of 24 warp threads with 20 weft threads, the former showing the full
combination, and the latter being reduced to working order for weaving with
10 shafts.
No. 5 and 6, fabrics with a face weft float over 9 warp threads of combi-
nations of 30 warp threads with 60 weft threads, the former shewing the full
combination, and the latter being reduced to working order for weaving with
12 shafts.

page_text: No. 7 and 8, fast pile fabrics with a face weft float over 9 warp-threads, of
combinations of 12 warp threads with 40 weft threads, the former showing the
full combination, and the latter being reduced to working order for weaving
with 5 shafts and 3 warp threads in one dent of the reed.
11. Fabrics with a ribbed back, of which every rib consists of 2 warp threads.
No. 9 and 10, fabrics with a face weft float over 5 warp threads of combi-
nations of 12 warp threads with 8 weft threads, the former showing the full
combination, and the latter being reduced to working order for weaving with
8 shafts.
No. 11 and 12, fabrics with a face weft float over 5 warp threads of combi-
nations of 12 warp threads with 24 weft threads, the former showing the full
combination, and the latter being reduced to working order for weaving with
8 shafts.
No. 13 and 14, fabrics with a face weft float over 7 warp threads of combi-
nations of 8 warp threads with 10 weft threads, the former showing the full
combination, and the latter being reduced to working order for weaving with
6 shafts.
No. 15 and 16, fabrics with a face weft float over 7 warp threads of combi-
nations of 8 warp threads with 20 weft threads, the former showing the full
combination, and the latter being reduced to working order for weaving with
6 shafts.
No. 17 and 18, fabrics with a face weft float over 9 warp threads of combi-
nations of 20 warp threads with 60 weft threads, the former showing the full
combination, and the latter being reduced to working order for weaving with
12 shafts.
No. 19 and 20, fast pile fabrics with a face weft float over 5 warp threads
of combinations of 8 warp threads with 20 weft threads, the former showing
the full combination, and the latter being reduced to working order for
weaving with 6 shafts.
No. 21 and 22, fast pile fabrics with a face weft float over 7 warp threads
of combinations of 20 warp threads with 60 weft threads, the former showing
the full combination, and the latter being reduced to working order for
weaving with 12 shafts.
III. Fabrics with a reversed twill back showing like plain cloth on the
back of the fabric and having the twill on the face side underneath the face
weft floats.
No. 23 and 24, fabrics with a face weft float over 5 warp threads of
combinations of 6 warp threads with 12 weft threads, and with 6 shafts.

page_text: No. 25 and 26, fabrics with a face weft float over 7 warp threads of
combinations of 24 warp threads with 15 weft threads the former showing
the full combination, and the latter being reduced to working order with 15
shafts.
No. 27 and 28, fabrics with a face weft float over 9 warp threads of
combinations of 30 warp threads with 18 weft threads the former showing
the full combination, and the latter being reduced to working order with 18
shafts.
No. 29 and 30, fast pile fabrics with a face weft float over 9 warp threads
of combinations of 12 warp threads, with 42 weft threads the former showing
the full combination, and the latter being reduced to working order with 9
shafts.
IV. Fabrics with a fancy or figured back.
No. 31 and 32, fabrics with a face weft float over 5 warp threads of com-
binations of 6 warp threads with 12 weft threads.
No. 33 to 36, fabrics with a face weft float over 7 warp threads of com-
binations of 8 warp threads with 20 weft threads.
No. 37 and 38, fabrics with a face weft float over 9 warp threads of com-
binations of 10 warp threads with 30 weft threads.
No. 39 and 40, fast pile fabrics with a face weft float over 7 warp threads of
combinations of 10 warp threads with 30 weft threads.
V. Fast pile fabrics in which all the back weft threads or binders are alike.
No. 41 and 42, fast pile fabrics with a face weft float over 7 warp threads
of combinations of 10 warp threads with 6 weft threads, the former showing
the full combination, and the latter being reduced to working order with 6
sbafts.
No. 43 and 44, fast pile fabrics with a face weft float over 7 warp threads
of combinations of 10 warp threads with 30 weft threads, the former showing
the full combination, and the latter being reduced to working order with 6
shafts.
B. For producing fabrics in which the curdy or ribby appearance running
parallel with the selvages in connexion with a tabby or plain back is
obviated or modified.
No. 45, tabby or plain back velvet with a face weft float over 5 warp threads
of combinations of 6 warp threads with 8 weft threads.
No. 46, tabby or plain back velvet with a face weft float over 5 warp threads
of combinations of 6 warp threads with 24 weft threads.

page_text: No. 47 and 48, tabby or plain back velvet with a face weft float over 7
warp threads of combinations of 8 warp threads with 10 weft threads.
No. 49 to 52, tabby or plain velvet with a face weft float over 7 warp threads
of combinations of 8 warp threads with 40 weft threads. No. 49 and 51,
showing the full combination, and No. 50 and 52 being reduced to working
order with 5 shafts.
No. 53 and 54, tabby or plain back velvet with a face weft float over 9
warp threads of combinations of 10 warp threads with 12 weft threads, the
former showing the full combination, and the latter being reduced to working
order with 6 shafts.
No. 55 to 58, tabby or plain back velvet with a face weft float over 9 warp
threads of combinations of 10 warp threads with 60 weft threads. No. 55 and
57, shewing the full combination, and No. 56 and 58 being reduced to working
order with 6 shafts.
No. 59 and 60, tabby or plain back fast pile velvet with a face weft float
over 7 warp threads of combinations of 10 warp threads with 12 weft threads
the former showing the full combination, and the latter being reduced to
working order with 6 shafts.
No. 61 and 62, tabby or plain back fast pile velvet with a face weft float
over 7 warp threads of combinations of 10 warp threads with 60 weft threads
the former showing the full combination, and the latter being reduced to
working order with 6 shafts.
No. 63 and 64, tabby or plain back fast pile velvet with a face weft float
over 9 warp threads of combinations of 12 warp threads with 10 weft threads,
the former showing the full combination, and the latter being reduced to
working order with 6 shafts and 3 warp threads to be drawn through 1 dent of
the reed.
No. 65 and 66, tabby or plain back fast pile velvet with the face weft float
over 9 warp threads of combinations of 12 warp threads with 20 weft threads,
the former shewing the full combination, and the latter being reduced to work-
ing order with 6 shafts and 3 warp threads to be drawn through one dent of
the reed.
C.-For producing fabrics in which the nicky or twilly appearance running
diagonally from selvage to selvage in connexion with a twilled back is

page_text: No. 70, velveteen or Genoa velvet with a 3 leaf twill back and a face weft
float over 5 warp threads of combinations of 6 warp threads with 24 weft
threads.
.
No. 71 and 72, velveteens with a 4 leaf 3 and 1 twill back and a face
weft float over 7 warp threads of combinations of 8 warp threads with 20 weft
threads, the former showing the full combination, and the latter being reduced
to working order with 6 shafts.
No. 73 and 74, velveteens with a double twill back, and a face weft float
over 7 warp threads, of combinations of 8 warp threads with 20 weft threads,
the former shewing the full combination, and the latter being reduced to
working order with 6 shafts.
No. 75, velveteen, with a 5 leaf twill or satin back, and a face weft float
over 9 warp threads of combinations of 10 warp threads with 30 weft
threads.
No. 76, fast pile velveteens, with a 5 leaf twill or satin back, and a face
weft float over 7 warp threads of combinations of 10 warp threads with
30 weft threads.
In the practical carrying out of our Invention, the various operations may
be conducted in the ordinary and well-known manner; we would however
observe, that in the manufacture of our improved fabric with a ribbed back,
of which every rib consists of two warp threads, it is desirable to draw the
warp threads through the reed in such a manner that the two warp threads
which form one rib in the back, be separated from each other by a dent of the
reed, otherwise one of them is liable to slip underneath the other, instead of
remaining by the side of it.
From what we have above stated, it will be understood that our Invention
for obviating or modifying the various defects which we have enumerated by
manufacturing such fabrics with a ribbed back, a reversed twill back, or a
fancy or figured back, and by more or less breaking the regularity and uni-
formity of the series of face weft floats occurring between two or more back 3
weft threads or binders, can be adapted to an almost endless variety of com-
binations of warp threads with weft threads according to the particular descrip-
tion of fabric required. It will also be evident that the fabrics when woven
may be cut and dressed, or finished according to the usual and well known
processes.
Having thus described and ascertained the nature of our said Invention,
and the manner in which the same is to be performed, I desire it to be under-
stood that we do not limit ourselves to the particular combinations of warp
3

page_text: and weft threads above described and explained by reference to the accom-
panying diagrams and weaver's drafts; but we claim as our Invention, and
secured to us, under the above in part recited Letters Patent, the methods
substantially as above described of interweaving the weft with the warp, whereby
the defects aforesaid in the fabrics are either removed or modified.
In witness whereof, I, the said Charles William Kesselmeyer, have
hereunto set my hand and seal, this Fourteenth day of February, in
the year of our. Lord Oue thousand eight hundred and sixty-two.
C. W. KESSELMEYER. (L.S.)