IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF SOFT STITCHED HATS HELMETS AND CAPS to be as follows
Year: 1885

page_text: •
THO
Helmets, and Caps.
I MICHAEL SCHNEIDERS of Buck's Row Whitechapel Road in the County of
Middlesex Hat and Cap Manufacturer do hereby declare the nature of the said
Invention for " IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF SOFT STITCHED HATS
HELMETS AND CAPS to be as follows:-
:-
"
My invention relates to the manufacture of soft stitched hats helmets and caps
the crown part of which is formed of four six or eight parts or sections which hats
helmets and caps are ordinarily known in the trade as "four quarter" "six
quarter" and "eight quarter" hate helmets and caps.
According to the ordinary method of manufacturing such soft stitched hats
helmets and caps a number of pieces of tweed or other material (hereinafter termed
the outer material) of the kind of which the outer part of the hat or other article
is required to be made are cut each of the shape required to form a portion or
section of the hat or other article and a number of pieces of other material (herein-
after termed the lining material) are cut of similar shape. To each of the pieces of
the outer material a piece of the lining material is then secured by several rows of
stitches and a number of the pieces or sections thus lined sufficient to form the hat
or other article are then stitched together near their edges the outer side of the
adjacent sections being placed together before stitching. When the several sections
are thus secured together the edges thereof or those parts which lie outside of the
seams project on the innerside of the hat and are covered by strips of tape the edges
of which are sewn to the innerside of the hat on either side of the seams.
The objects of my Invention are to facilitate and lessen the work of stitching the
outer part of the hat or other article to the lining and to avoid the unsightly
appearance produced by the seams which project on the innerside and to render
the tape covering of the said seams unnecessary.
According to my said Invention I take a number of pieces of the outer material
sufficient to form one half of the hat or other article and stitch them together near
their edges and I take a number of pieces of lining material sufficient to form one
half of the lining of the hat and stitch them together in like manner. I then take
the half outer part and the half lining part thus separately formed and press the
several seams and place the two parts together the seamed sides being turned

page_text: towards each other so that the rough edges of the several seams are hidden from
view being between the outer material and the lining. I then make the other half
outer part and lining part and press the seams and place the said half parts together
in like manner and then place the two halves together the adjacent parts being
those which when the hat is finished are the lower parts. I then secure each of
the half outer parts to its lining by a continuous line or continuous lines of stitches
and when the stitching is finished I separate the two halves and place them
together in the positions required to form the hat or other article placing the outer
sides together and I secure the two halves together by stitching through the outer
I then
material of the two halves and the lining material of one of the halves.
press the seam so formed and afterwards lap over it the unsecured edge of the
lining material of the other half and stitch through the overlapped edge and those
parts of the materials of the hat or other article over which the said edge is lapped.
I then complete the hat or other other article by securing a brim thereto or by
binding the edge or otherwise in the usual way.
The manufacture of the said hats and other articles according to my Invention
is accompanied by the following advantages as compared with the ordinary manu-
facture. A superior appearance is produced the work of securing the tape over the
seams is avoided and the work of stitching the outer part to the lining part is
effected with less trouble and in less time. Consequently the cost of production of
the said hats or other articles is reduced.

page_text: Improvements in the Manufacture of Soft Stitched Hats,
Helmets, and Caps.
I MICHAEL SCHNEIDERS of Buck's Row Whitechapel Road in the County of
Middlesex Hat and Cap Manufacturer do hereby declare the nature of the said
Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF SOFT STITCHED HATS
HELMETS AND CAPS and in what manner the same is to be performed to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
"
My invention relates to the manufacture of soft stitched hats helmets and caps
the crown part of which is formed of four six or eight parts or sections which
hats helmets and caps are ordinarily known in the trade as "four quarter" "six
quarter" and "eight quarter" hats helmets and caps.
According to the ordinary method of manufacturing such soft stitched hats
helmets and caps a number of pieces of tweed or other material (hereinafter
termed the outer material) of the kind of which the outer part of the hat or
other article is required to be made are cut each of the shape required to form
a portion or section of the hat or other article and a number of pieces of other
material (hereinafter termed the lining material) are cut of similar shape. To each
of the pieces of the outer material a piece of the lining material is then secured by
several rows of stitches and a number of the pieces or sections thus lined sufficient
to form the hat or other article are then stitched together near their edges the
outer side of the adjacent sections being placed together before stitching.
the several sections are thus secured together the edges thereof or those parts which
lie outside of the seams project on the innerside of the hat and are covered by
strips of tape the edges of which are sewn to the innerside of the hat on either side
of the seams.
When
The objects of my Invention are to facilitate and lessen the work of stitching
the outer part of the hat or other article to the lining and to avoid the unsightly
appearance produced by the seams which project on the innerside and to render the
tape covering of the said seams unnecessary.
According to my said Invention I take a number of pieces of the outer material
sufficient to form one half of the hat or other article and stitch them together near
their edges and I take a number of pieces of lining material sufficient to form one
half of the lining of the hat and stitch them together in like manner. I then take
the half outer part and the half lining part thus separately formed and press the
several seams and place the two parts together the seamed sides being turned
towards each other so that the rough edges of the several seams are hidden from
view being between the outer material and the lining. I then make the other half
outer part and lining part and press the seams and place the said half parts
together in like manner and then place the two halves together the adjacent parts

page_text: being those which when the hat is finished are the lower parts. I then secure each
of the half outer parts to its lining by a continuous line or continuous lines of
stitches and when the stitching is finished I separate the two halves and place
them together in the positions required to form the hat or other article placing the
outer sides together and I secure the two halves together by stitching through the
outer material of the two halves and the lining material of one of the halves.
I then press the seam so formed and afterwards lap over it the unsecured edge of
the lining material of the other half and stitch through the overlapped edge and
those parts of the materials of the hat or other article over which the said edge is
lapped.
Having thus described the nature of my Invention I will proceed to describe the
manner in which it is to be performed reference being had to the accompanying
drawings and to the letters and figures marked thereon. The same letters and
figures of refereuce indicate the same parts in the several Figures of the drawings
which drawings illustrate those of the several stages of manufacture of a
quarter" soft stitched hat to which my Invention relates.
"E 81X
Figure 1 shows approximately the form of one of the sections or portions of the
material of which either the outer part or the lining part of the crown of the hat is
composed six of the said portions being required to form the outer part and six to
form the lining part. Figure 2 represents three of the portions of the outer
material connected together to form one half of the outer part of the hat. Figure 3
represents the same in edge view the said portions being marked respectively A, B, C
and Figure 4 represents in edge view three of the portions of lining material con-
nected together to form one half of the lining part of the hat the said portions
being marked respectively D, E, F. The portions A and C are connected to the
portion B as follows. One of the side portions (say the portion A) is placed flat on
the portion B as shown in plan in Figure 5 and in edge view in Figure 6 and the
two portions are connected by a line of stitches passing through the material
of the said two portions in the direction indicated by the dotted line in Figure 5
and by the line a in Figure 6. The two portions thus connected are then
opened out as shown in edge view in Figure 7 and the portion marked C is
placed flat on the portion B as shown in plan in Figure 8 and edge view in
Figure 9 and secured thereto by a line of stitches as indicated by the dotted
line in the said Figure 8 and by the line b in Figure 9. The portions of lining
material required to form one of the halves of the lining part of the hat are
secured together as hereinbefore described with reference to the portions of the
outer material. In placing the several portions in position before stitching them
the surfaces of the materials which are required to be exposed to view when
the hat is finished are placed in contact consequently the rough edges of the
seams of both the outer part and the lining part are hidden from view when
the manufacture of the hat is completed as hereinafter described. After the
several portions of sections have been secured together as herein before described
the half outer part and the half lining part so formed are opened out as shown
in plan in Figure 2 and in edge view in Figures 3 and 4 and the rough
edges a¹, b1, b2, c¹ of the seams of the half outer part and the rough edges d', e',
e, f1, of the seams of the half lining part are pressed flat as shown respectively
in Figures 10 and 11. The other half outer part and half lining part are then
similarly formed and the seams pressed and the outer and lining parts of each
half are respectively placed in contact as shown in edge view in Figures 12
and 13. Figure 12 representing the half part herein before described thus placed
and Figure 13 the parts of the second half thus placed. The parts of the said
second half marked G, H, I, J, K, L, g¹ h¹, h², i¹, j¹, k, k², correspond respectively
with those of the parts of the other half parts marked respectively A, B, C, D, E, F
a¹, b', b, c, d, e', e², f¹. The two halves of the outer part of the crown of the hat
thus in contact with the halves of the lining part are then arranged with those of
their edges in contact which when the hat is finished constitute the lower part of

page_text: the crown.
The said parts are shown thus arranged in plan in Figure 14. Each
of the half outer parts is then secured to its half lining part by stitching in a
continuous line or continuous lines through the two materials of the halves as
indicated by the dotted lines in the said Figure 14 and when the stitching is
completed the two halves are separated by cutting through the stitching threads
between the meeting edges of the said halves. The two halves are then flattened
and placed together with the two outer parts in contact and the two lining parts
outward as shown in plan in Figure 15 and edge view in Figure 16 the halves of
the outer material being marked respectively A* B* and the halves of the lining
material C* D* in the said Figure 16. The rough edge of the lining part of one
of the halves is then turned back as shown at M M in Figures 17 and 18 (which
represent views of the said halves corresponding to those shown in Figures 15
and 16) and the said halves are secured together by stitching through the outer
material of both the halves and that one of the halves of the lining part which has
not been turned back the direction of the said stitching being indicated by the
dotted line in Figure 17 and by the line z in Figures 18. The connected parts are
then opened out into a bowl form as shown in Figure 19 and the rough edges N N
projecting beyond the seam thus formed are pressed flat as shown in Figure 20
which represents in section drawn to a large scale a part of the crown of the hat
adjacent to the said pressed seam the section being taken transversely to the seam.
The turned back part M. of the lining is then laid over the pressed seam and the
edge of the said part is turned or folded under the adjacent part as shown at m¹ in
Figure 22 and in Figure 23 which is a section corresponding to the section
Figure 21. The said half lining is then secured by lines of stitching passing
through the entire material of the hat and near the edge of the lining material to
be secured the position of the lines of stitching and their direction being indicated
by the dotted lines in the said Figure 22. The hat or other article is then
finished by securing a brim thereto or by binding the edge or otherwise in the
usual way.
Figure 24 of the accompanying drawings is a plan of underside of a completed
hat the crown part of which is manufactured as hereinbefore described.
The stitching connecting the outer material and the lining material of each half
which stitching is shown in Figures 14 and 24 is not shown in Figures 15, 17, 19,
20 and 22.
In manufacturing "four quarter" and "eight quarter" hats helmets and caps
according to my invention I proceed substantially as hereinbefore fully described
with respect to the manufacture of a "six quarter" hat that is I first connect the
number of portions or sections required to form the separate halves and press the
seams and place the halves together with the rough edges of the several sections
inward then stitch through the material of the two halves in a continuous line
or continuous lines then separate the halves so stitched and connect the two halves
of the outer part and one of the halves of the lining parts together as required to
form the crown part of the hat or the helmet or cap and press the seam and close
the unsecured edge of the other half of the lining part by stitching
pressed seam as hereinbefore described.
over the
The manufacture of the said hats and other articles according to my invention
is accompanied by the following advantages as compared with the ordinary manu-
facture. A superior appearance is produced the work of securing the tape over the
seams is avoided and the work of stitching the outer part to the lining part is
effected with less trouble and in less time. Consequently the cost of production of
the said hats or other articles is reduced.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my invention
and the manner in which the same is to be performed I wish it to be understood
that I do not limit myself to the precise details hereinbefore described as they may
be varied without departing from the nature of my Invention but what I claim as

page_text: my said Invention of "Improvements in the manufacture of soft stitched hats
helmets and caps" is
Forming the outer part of the crown in separate halves and forming the lining
part of the crown in separate halves by stitching together the number of sections
required to form each of the said halves before stitching together the material of
the outer part and that of the lining part whereby the ordinary tape coverings of
the seams between the said sections on the innerside of the hat helmet or cap are
rendered unnecessary.