IMPROVEMENTS IN OR APPLICABLE TO THE CLASS OF HATS MADE FROM STRAW, GRASS, PALM LEAF, OR OTHER LIKE MATERIALS
Year: 1857

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Charles Turner, of Liverpool, in the County of
Lancaster, Hat Manufacturer, and Louis Watermann, of the same Place,
Cap Manufacturer, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN OR APPLICABLE
TO THE CLASS OF HATS MADE FROM STRAW, GRASS, PALM LEAF, OR OTHER LIKE
MATERIALS."
Lancaster, Hat Manufacturer, and Louis Watermann, of the same Place,
Cap Manufacturer, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN OR APPLICABLE
TO THE CLASS OF HATS MADE FROM STRAW, GRASS, PALM LEAF, OR OTHER LIKE
MATERIALS."
Sealed the 8th May 1857, and dated the 9th February 1857..
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Charles Turner and Louis.
Watermann at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with their
Petition, on the 9th February 1857.
We, CHARLES TURNER, of Liverpool, in the County of Lancaster, Hat
Manufacturer, and LOUIS WATERMANN, of the same Place, Cap Manufacturer,
do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
OR APPLICABLE TO THE CLASS OF HATS MADE FROM STRAW, GRASS, PALM LEAP, or
OTHER LIKE MATERIALS," to be as follows:-
. This Invention consists in shaping hats made from straw, grass, palm leaf,
chip, and other like materials, by "steaming" and "blocking," in the same
way that ordinary felt hats are now shaped, and in the use and application of
an edging to the brim of the hat, which edging material is so formed that it
will curl over the brim towards the crown of the hat to give stiffness to
enable the hat to keep its shape; it is also proposed to coat the under side of
the brim with a mixture of "proofing."

page_text: The edging preferred to be used is what is known in the bat trade as
"gossimar," which is calico stiffened with shellac and rosin desolved in
mythelated spirit of wine, but any other suitable stiff material may be used
for the purpose; and it is proposed to cover the edging with a silk or other
suitable binding.
By this Invention straw and other like hats can be made to acquire the
requisite oval shape to fit the wearer, without altering the shape of the brim
when put upon the head.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Charles Turner and Louis Watermann in the Great Seal
Patent Office on the 18th May 1857.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, wc, CHARLES
TURNER, of Liverpool, in the County of Lancaster, Hat Manufacturer, and
LOUIS WATERMANN, of the same Place, Cap Manufacturer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Ninth day of February, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-seven, in the twentieth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto us, the
said Charles Turner and Louis Watermann, Her special licence that we, the
said Charles Turner and Louis Watermann, our executors, administrators,
and assigns, or such others as we, the said. Charles Turner and Louis
Watermann, our exécutors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time
agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during
the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel
Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN OR APPLICABLE
TO THE CLASS OF HATS MADE FROM STRAW, GRASS, PALM LEAF, OR OTHER LIKE
MATERIALS," upon the condition (amongst others) that we, the said Charles
Turner and Louis Watermann, our executors or administrators, by an instru-
ment in writing under our, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should
particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what
manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the
Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately
after the date of the said Letters Patent.
..
NOW KNOW YE, that we, the said Charles Turner and Louis Watermann;
do hereby declare the nature of our said Invention, and in what manner the

page_text: same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement:
Our Invention consists in "shaping and finishing" hats that are made from
straw, grass, palm. leaf, chip, and other like materials, by "steaming" and
"blocking" them in the same way that ordinary felt. hats are now finished and
shaped, and in the use and application of a stiff edging or edgings to the brims
of the hats, which edging material or. materials are formed so as to curl over
the brim towards the crown of the hat to give stiffness thereto. And we also
apply to the under side of the brim and inside of the top and side of the crown
a coating of "hatters' proofing," to give the hat additional stiffness, to enable
it to keep its shape. When we require a further support or stiffness, we apply
a layer of silk, cloth, or other fabric to entirely cover the under side of the
brim.
The edging we prefer to use is what is known in the hat trade as "gos-
samer," which is calico stiffened with shell-lac and rosin dissolved in mythe-
lated spirit of wine; but we wish it to be understood that we do not confine
ourselves to the use of "gossamer" exclusively, as any other suitable stiff
material or materials may be used for the same purpose. We cover the edging
with a silk or other suitable binding, which is sewed on to the edge previous
to being curled over; and in curling the edge, which we do by means of
heated irons, the binding becomes further attached to the edging by the heat
from the irons causing it to adhere to the edging by means of the " proofing,"
thereby causing the binding to form a portion of the curled edge itself.
By means of this our said Invention, straw, palm leaf, grass, chip, and other
like hats can be made to acquire the requisite oval shape to fit the head of the
wearer, obviating unequal pressure on the forehead, and without altering the
contour of the hat when put upon the head, a desideratum not hitherto obtained
in this class of hats.
Having now fully described our said Invention, and how the same may be
performed, what we claim as new and our Invention is,―
First, the shaping of hats made from straw, grass, palm leaf, chip, and other
like materials, by steaming and " blocking them, as herein-before
described.
"
Secondly, the use and application of a stiff curled edging, formed of "gos-
samer or other suitable stiff material or materials, when applied to straw,
palm leaf, grass, chip, and other hats formed from similar materials, as herein-
before described.
Thirdly, the use and application of "hatters' proofing" for stiffning straw,
grass, palm leaf, chip, and other hats of that class, as herein-before described.

page_text: Fourthly, and lastly, the shaping and treating of straw, grass, palm leaf,
chip, and other hats of that description, as herein-before described.
In witness whereof, we, the said Charles Turner and Louis Watermann,
have hereunto set our hands and seals, this Fourteenth day of May, in
the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-seven.
CHARLES (L.S.) TURNER.
LOUIS
Witness,.
WILLIAM WALKER,
of 44, Castle Street, Liverpool.
(L.S.) WATERMANN..