IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BONNET AND CAP FRONTS, AND IN THE MEANS OR APPARATUS EMPLOYED THEREIN
Year: 1859

page_text: . LETTERS PATENT to William Henry Morrison, of Nottingham, Manu-
facturer, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF
BONNET AND CAP FRONTS, AND IN THE MEANS OR APPARATUS EMPLOYED
THEREIN."
Sealed the 2nd March 1860, and dated the 12th September 1859.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Henry Morrison
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
12th September 1859.
i
I, WILLIAM HENRY MORRISON, of Nottingham, Manufacturer, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANU-
FACTURE OF BONNET AND CAP FRONTS, AND IN THE MEANS OR APPARATUS EMPLOYED
THEREIN," to be as follows:
The improvements in the manufacture of bonnet or cap fronts relate, first,
to adaptation of means in connection with goffering machines by which to
measure or indicate the quantity of material being used. For this purpose
pass such material over a roller, or between a pair of rollers which move
with it, and by suitable worm or other gear indicate the quantity thus
passed.
The improvements relate also to means of heating the rods or bars of the
goffering chains by which the goffering is effected, and of steaming the
gofferings. For this purpose I apply a steam box or steam boxes, in position
for the rods or bars of the goffering chains to pass around, or otherwise in
contact, and thereby receive the desired heat; and I apply jets of steam to act

page_text: on the material whilst being goffered, or as it passes between the bars or rods
of the goffering chains.
Also, the improvements relate to the adaptation of cutting means to the
goffering apparatus to cut the gofferings into the desired lengths. For this
purpose I apply to such apparatus scissors or cutters, to act upon the goffered
material at times adapted to the lengths required (capable of being varied),
and operated by connections in the working of the apparatus.
The improvements relate also to the use of paper as a substitute for woven
fabric in the production of the "bands" of bonnet and cap fronts. In some
cases, to give tenacity to the paper, so as to prevent its being too readily torn
I introduce strands of thread into its composition, or apply such to its surface,
or the paper may be combined with muslin or such like open texture.
The "banding" machines have heretofore been constructed so that the
"bands" as well as the gofferings have to be introduced to and removed from
the groove at the upper surface thereof, and another improvement consists in
forming the grooves open at the ends, so that the bands may be introduced in
succession end ways, and removed with the gofferings attached thereto at the
opposite end, by which time will be saved, or so that the "bauding" may be
carried forward in continuous lengths, adapted to a number of successive
"bands." For this purpose the uprights in the way are bent or arched, or
otherwise formed so as to admit of the free passage of the material.
Also, the improvements relate to the application of cutting means to
separate the "banding" (when used in a continuous length) into the separate
lengths for each goffering as they leave the "banding "machine. For this
purpose I apply a pair of scissors or knife edges, operated at the times desired
by connections from the moving parts.
Also, the improvements relate to the adaptation of a series of trays for the
gofferings, arranged so as to pass in two tiers, in order that when one tray has
delivered its goffering in one tier, it passes into the next tier, and another tray
is ready to come into position with another goffering, and so on.
The improvements also relate to arranging the parts so that the nipping
bars will partially close upon the blond when the knife descends in the groove,
.to prevent the blond rising with the knife.
Also, the improvements relate to adapting the parts of such machines, so
that they may be operated by rotary motion, and thus admit of power being
applied to work them. For this purpose I apply cams or tappets to a main
axis or axes, to act upon links or levers to the various moving parts.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said William Henry Morrison in the Great Seal Patent Office
on the 12th March 1860.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, WILLIAM
HENRY MORRISON, of Nottingham, Manufacturer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twelfth day of September, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-nine, in the twenty-third year
of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant
unto me, the said William Henry Morrison, Her special licence that I, the
said William Henry Morrison, my executors, administrators, and assigns,
or such others as I, the said William Henry Morrison, my executors,
administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others,
from time to time and at all times thereafter during the term therein
expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within
the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and
Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF
BONNET AND CAP FRONTS, AND IN THE MEANS OR APPARATUS EMPLOYED THEREIN,"
upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said William Henry Morrison,
my executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my,
or their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and
ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same
was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal
Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the
date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said William Henry Morrison, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same
is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement thereof, that is to say:-
The improvements in the manufacture of bonnet and cap fronts relate, first,
to adaptation of means in connection with goffering machines, by which to
measure or indicate the quantity of material being used. For this purpose I
pass such material over a roller or between a pair of rollers which move with
it, and by suitable worm or other gear indicate the quantity thus passed.
The improvements relate, secondly, to means of heating the rods or bars of
the goffering chains by which the goffering is effected, and of steaming the
gofferings. For this purpose I apply a steam box or steam boxes in position
for the rods or bars of the goffering chains to ass around or otherwise in

page_text: contact, and thereby receive the desired heat; and I apply jets of steam to
act on the material whilst being goffered or as it passes between the bars or
rods of the goffering chains.
The improvements relate, thirdly, to the 'banding" machines. The
"banding" machines have heretofore been constructed so that the "bands,"
as well as the gofferings, have to be introduced to and removed from the
groove at the upper surface thereof; and the third part of the improvements
consists in forming the grooves open at the ends, so that the bands may be
introduced in succession endways, and removed with the gofferings attached
thereto at the opposite end, by which time will be saved, or so that the
"banding" may be carried forward in continuous lengths adapted to a
number of successive bands. For this purpose the uprights in the way are
bent or arched, or otherwise formed, so as to admit of the free passage of the
material. Also, this part of the improvements relates to the application of
cutting means to separate the banding (when used in a continuous length)
into the separate length for each goffering as it leaves the "banding" machine.
For this purpose I apply a pair of scissors or knife edges operated at the times
desired by connections from the moving parts. Also, this part of the improve-
ments relates to the adaptation of a series of trays for the gofferings, arranged
so as to pass in two tiers, in order that when one tray has delivered its
goffering in one tier it passes into the next tier, and another tray is ready to
come into position with another goffering, and so on. Also, this part of the
improvements relates to arranging the parts, so that the nipping bars will
partially close upon the blond, when the knife descends in the groove to
prevent the blond rising with the knife. Also, this part of the improvements
relates to adapting the parts of such machines so that they may be operated
by rotary motion, and thus admit of power being applied to work them. For
this purpose I apply cams or tappets to a main axis or axes to act upon links
or levers to the various moving parts.
But that my improvements may be better understood, I will proceed, aided
by the accompanying Drawings, more fully to explain the means pursued
by me.
ап
Figure 1 shews a sectional side view of a goffering apparatus,
arrangement of measuring apparatus adapted thereto, according to the first 8
part of the Invention. Figure 2 shews a cross section of the goffering
apparatus, and Figure 8 a plan of the measuring apparatus. a, a, is the
main framing of the measuring apparatus; the yellow line b represents the

page_text: fabric to be measured and goffered, and as drawn forward by the action of the
goffering apparatus from a creel or other holder, it is conducted between the
two rollers c, c¹. The roller c is supported in arms c³ from the axis c³ carried by
the framing a, and it is borne lightly against the other roller c¹ by the action
of springs c, one end of each of which is connected to the arms c, whilst
the ends are attached to the main framing. By the friction thus obtained motion
is given to the roller c¹ which is affixed to the axis which turns in bearings
carried by the framing a, whilst there is affixed upon it the screw wheel co which
is adapted to take into, and thus give motion to any one of the wheels d, which
for the time may be in connection with that wheel c. The wheels d are
formed with numbers of teeth varying from each other as shown, so that they
may take longer or shorter time in rotation, and each turns upon an axis d
carried by the plate d. And this plate is formed with a centre screw pin d³,
which passes through a slotted hole formed in the main framing, and is capable
of being fixed therein as desired by the thumb nut d', so as, for the time, to
hold the particular wheel d desired in connection with the wheel c³, and then
to admit of change for other of those wheels. Each wheel d carries pins d³,
and some of them have two and some more pins as shown, which, when the
wheel d to which such are affixed is in connection with the wheel c, are for
the purpose of acting upon one end of the hammer lever e, at particular times
of revolution of the cylinder c', and by causing the head of the hammer lever e
to strike the bell e, to indicate that a certain quantity of fabric has passed
through the apparatus. For this purpose the hammer lever e is supported
upon an axis of motion e¹ and is borne against the stud es and towards the
belle by the spring e, except when for an instant it is acted upon by a pin or
stud d', as such pin d³ passes the short end of the hammer lever e, when the
vibration obtained will cause the head e, by the elasticity of that lever e, to
strike the bell e. The pins d³, on the respective wheels d, are placed in
position in relation to the number of teeth in the respective wheels adapted to
give indications when 1 yards, 1 yards, 2 yards, 2 yards, and so on, have
passed through the goffering apparatus, but these may be varied as required
according to the lengths for the time desired to be obtained, and when the bell
rings, the attendant will cut off the fabric passing from the goffering apparatus.
f is the framing of the goffering apparatus, and 9, 9, the chains of goffering
bars carried by the wheels g¹, 9, affixed to axes turning in the framing f; upon
the axis of one of the wheels g' is affixed a handle or other means for giving
rotary motion to these wheels, and thence to the chains of goffering bars, all
which is well understood.
But, in addition, according to the second part of my improvements, I apply

page_text: steam boxes h, h, supplied by steam through suitable pipes h¹, whilst the
water obtained by condensation is conducted away by pipes h. By the heat
thus communicated to these boxes the required heat is obtained to the bars or
rods g, to effect the goffering of the fabric. i is a steam pipe perforated with
holes to admit of the escape of steam in streams upon the fabric, just as it is
beginning to be acted upon by the goffering bars g, so as to impart a certain
amount of moisture thereto, and thereby facilitate the setting of it in goffers,
when further acted upon by the heated bars g.
I will now proceed to describe the improvements under the third head of
Invention, and I will suppose the object to be the production of a bonnet front,
as like operations, with but slight variations, such as will readily be under-
stood, take place when cap fronts &c. are desired to be obtained. These parts
of the improvements are shown by front view, Figure 4, plan view, Figure 5, a
sectional view, Figure 6, and end view, Figure 7, and a sectional end view,
Figure 8, in each of the Figures of which the same letters indicate like parts
wherever they occur. Figures 9, 10, 11, 12, shew some of the parts sepa-
rately. a, a, is the main framing; b is a winch handle applied to one of the
arms of the wheel b¹, which is capable of turning on the fixed stud or pin 6*,
carried by the framing. To this wheel is affixed the pinion 62 which, by the
intermediate wheel ³, gives motion to the toothed wheel 6 on the shaft or axis b*,
which turns in bearings carried by the main framing and carries some of the
cams or tappets for operating some of the parts as will presently be more clearly
seen, and upon this shaft or axis & is affixed the pinion 6, which, by means of
the intermediate tooth wheel 6', gives motion to the tooth wheel 68, on the shaft
or axis 6º, so as to give rotary motion to that shaft 6, at a speed of one-half of
that of the shaft or axis . The yellow line c represents the banding material
(when bands are to be applied to the gofferings) and such having been previously
folded as is well understood, is conducted from a spool or other holder in a
continuous length by means of the trough d, into the apparatus, and I prefer
that the fabric, whilst being conducted into the apparatus, be moistened by
water, or it may be by other liquid of a glutinous character. The fabric, as
conducted by the trough d, is laid between the bars e, e, to have the goffering
applied thereto, and when this is accomplished the band and goffering are con-
ducted forward, and thence taken by the pincers f, and by them drawn forwards
a certain distance for other goffering to be applied when the pincers f release
their hold of the band, and come back to take a fresh hold of it, and when
the nippers have drawn forward sufficient quantity of fabric to be taken by
the nippers h; these nippers hold the fabric during back motion of the nippers f
as also whilst the fabric is cut into the desired lengths by means of the

page_text: cutters i. The parts opposite the ends of the channel formed by the
plates e are, as it will be seen, according to my improvements, kept clear,
so as to admit of the continuous passage of material into and from the
apparatus. For this purpose the knife or plate j, by which the gofferings are
forced down into the fold of the band, is carried by rods j' connected to the
rods 2, of which there is a pair at each end, to admit of free passage between
them; and at their lower ends each pair of these rods is connected together
again by a bar j³, and each of these bars js has a stud j projecting from it,
and embraced by the slotted end of a lever arm jo affixed on the shaft jo, upon
which is also affixed the arm j' with a truck or bowl j', which, by means of
the spring j, is caused to bear against the cam or tappet j", by which the
requisite motions are obtained to the knife or plate. k, k, are trays in which
the gofferings to which the banding is to be applied are placed, and each of
these is operated to bring them in succession under the knife or bladej. In
Figures 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, the parts are shown when both of the trays k are in
position for receiving the gofferings, and just after a portion of band has been
pinched on to a goffering previously placed in the apparatus. Figure 12 shows
to a larger scale the parts in the position when one of the trays k is with its
goffering under the knife edge or plate j. Each tray k is formed with sliding
pieces k¹, capable of being set at the position desired by means of set screws k²,
and each tray is also provided with a pair of parallel slides, k, which are
connected by pin joints to the links or levers ko, which are capable of
turning on pins k. By these means facility is given for holding various
widths of gofferings centrally under the knife or blade j, so as to obtain equal
folding of the goffering. Each tray k is formed with parts, which partly
embrace the rods k, by which they are supported, with capability of sliding
thereon and upon the rods or bars ", ". And this sliding motion by which
each of the trays in succession is brought into a position to receive a goffering,
and then to take it under the knife or blade j is effected in the following
manner-Each of the trays k is formed with a pair of necks or projecting
studs 12, and one of them is operated by these necks or studs 18 passing into
the slotted openings formed in the upper ends of the levers k, which are
affixed to an axis k, supported in bearings carried by the main framing, and
upon which axis is also affixed the arm, with a truck or bowl 16, which is
operated to give motion to its tray k by following the course of the rimmed
cam or tappet 7 affixed on the shaft or axis 6º. The other tray is in like
manner operated by its necks or projecting studs 1, passing each into the
slot formed in the upper ends of levers 18 affixed to the axis, which turns
in bearings in the main framing, upon which is affixed the lever arm 20,

page_text: which, by the truck, is operated by the cam or tappet k". When a tray k
with its goffering is taken under the plate or knife edge j, it is slided from the
bars to the bars k; those bars k" are operated to lower the tray for the
time thereon on to the plates 1, 1, and when the blond is delivered to the band
and the band has been pinched thereon, so as to admit of the bladej retiring
the bars rise again into a line with the bars ko for a change of trays. The
bars are operated in the following manner:-They are each at their ends
connected to a pair of rods k, which pass through, and so as to be guided by
parts carried by the main framing, and at their lower ends each pair is con-
nected by a bar 2, which rests upon a projecting stud projecting from the
bar j³, and so as to be supported thereby, which they will be raised and
lowered in the rising and lowering of the knife edge or plate j. The plates 1, 1,
to prevent the band or tape rising are borne towards each other by springs 1, 1.
The nipping bars m, m, are formed hollow, and admit of steam being passed
therein by the pipes m', m', whilst the condensed water is allowed to flow
therefrom by means of the pipes m², m², and they are supported each upon a
pair of arms m³, m³, from the fixed axis m'. These bars m, m, are caused to
approach each other so as to act by the plates e, e, to pinch the band on to the
gofferings by means of levers m³, which turn upon axes of motion mo, and at
their lower ends are acted upon by the cam surfaces m upon the axis m³,
which are caused to act at the times desired by the cam m10 on the shaft b
acting upon the truck m¹¹ carried by the arm m¹ fixed to the axis m, and
these parts are so arranged in relation to the motions of the other parts, that
those nipping bars may partially close upon the blond gofferings when the
knife descends in the groove to prevent the blond rising with the knife. The
bars m, m, are drawn back by means of the springs m³, m³. As the band
passes from this part of the apparatus with the gofferings thereon, it is
supported by the gofferings resting and sliding on the bars n, n, and it is
retained from rising therefrom by the blade or bar o. The bars n are
supported by the standards n', and the blade or bar o by the standards o
from the main framing. The nipping apparatus f for conducting the fabric
forward is formed as shewn more clearly by the separate detached views of
the parts at Figure 10. They are formed by a pair of levers (1), (1), which
turn upon axes of motion (2), (2), carried by the plate (3), and they are
borne with their ends (4), (4), towards each other by means of the springs
(5), (5). The plate (3) is formed to embrace and slide on the bar f, and it
has motion given to it by means of the lever f2, the upper end of which is
connected by the link (6) to a stud from the plate (3), whilst the lower end is
affixed to the axis f³, and it is operated by the cam surface of the drum f on

page_text: the axis f acting on the truck or bowl fo on the lever f, and it is borne
against that cam surface by the spring f. The axis receives motion from
the axis 66 by the pinion f thereon taking into the teeth of the pinion f" on
the axis f. The parts are shown in the position when the pincers f are
drawing the band with a portion of goffering therein towards the cutters i.
When the pincers arrive at the position indicated by dotted lines in Figure 4,
the ends (7) of those nippers come between the stationary incline surfaces f20,
by which they will be opened and released from nipping the fabric, and their
two studs (8) acted upon by springs (9) are forced upwards to keep the
parts (4) of the nippers open during the back motion of them to take on to a
fresh portion of fabric. Just when they have come to the full extent of their
motion to the right projecting parts (10) of the pins (8) come under the
incline surfaces f", by which these pins (8) are withdrawn from holding back
the parts of the pincers f, and they again nip into the fabric. The nippers h
which hold the fabric during the return motions of the nippers f are operated
in the following manner :-They are formed of two parts h, h', which turn on
an axis of motion h³, and their upper ends are borne together for the nip by
means of the cam or tappet surface h³, whilst their lower ends are capable of
being operated at the times desired by the springs h³. The cam or tappet
surface h is affixed on the shaft or axis ho, which turns in bearings connected
by the main framing, and is caused to rotate by there being affixed thereon
the bevilled pinion h', which is taken into and operated by the bevilled
pinion he affixed on the shaft or axis ho, which turns in suitable stationary
bearings, and upon which is affixed the bevilled pinion ho, which is taken
into and driven by the pinion " upon the axis f³. The cutters i are formed
by two cutting surfaces (1), (1), somewhat of the character of scissors, which
are formed on the levers 1, 2, which turn upon a stationary stud 1, and at
their lower ends they are acted upon with a tendency to close them, and
thereby effect a cutting at the times desired by means of the cam or tappet
surfaces on the axis he, to which those parts are borne by means of the
springs . Thus it will be seen, that all the movements for the operation of
the various parts are obtained by rotary motions.
Having thus described the nature of my Invention, and the means which
I have found adapted in carrying the same into effect, I would have it
understood that I do not confine myself to the precise details shewn and
described, as these may be varied without departing from the peculiar character
of the improvements; but what I do claim is,-
First, the arrangement, adaptation, or combination of means in connection

page_text: with goffering apparatus, for measuring and indicating the quantity of material
being used, substantially as explained.
Secondly, I claim the means of heating the rods or bars of the goffering
chains of goffering apparatus, as explained; and also I claim the means of
applying steam to the gofferings.
And, thirdly, I claim the so arranging, adapting, and combining parts of
apparatus used in the manufacture of bonnet and cap fronts, that the grooves
for the banding may be open at the ends, in order that the bands may be
introduced in succession endways, and removed with the gofferings attached
thereto at the opposite end, or so that the banding may be carried forward in
continuous lengths adapted to a number of successive bands.
Also, I claim the application of cutting means to separate the banding
(when used in a continuous length) into the separate length for each goffering
as it leaves the banding machine.
Also, I claim the adaptation, arrangement, and combination of parts,
whereby two or more trays are used to come in succession into position
with their gofferings.
Also, I claim the so arranging motions to the nipping bars that they may
partially close upon the blond when the knife descends in the groove to
prevent the blond rising with the knife.
Also, I claim the arranging, combining, and operating parts of machines for
the manufacture of bonnet and cap fronts, that they may be operated by
rotary motion, substantially as explained.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Henry Morrison, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, this Tenth day of March, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty.
Witness,
S. J. KING,
Nottingham.
W. H. MORRISON. (L.S.)