IMPROVEMENTS IN. THE MANUFACTURE OF BUTTONS
Year: 1841

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, HUMPHREY
JEFFERIES, of Birmingham, Button Manufacturer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date at West-
minster, the Twenty-second day of April, in the fourth year of Her reign; did,
for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the said
Humphrey Jefferies, Her especial licence, full power, sole privilege and
authority, that I, the said Humphrey Jefferies, my exors, admors, and
assigns, or such others as I, the said Humphries Jefferies, my exors,
admors, or assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, 'from time
to time and at all times during the term of years therein expressed, should
and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within England, Wales,
and the Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, my Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN.
THE MANUFACTURE OF BUTTONS;" in which said Letters Patent is contained a
proviso, that I, the said Humphrey Jefferies, shall cause a particular
description of the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be inrolled in Her said Majesty's High Court
of, Chancery within six calendar months next and immediately after the date
of the said in part recited Letters Patent, as in and by the same, reference
being thereunto had, will more fully and at large appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said
Humphries Jefferies, do. hereby declare the nature of my Invention, and
the manner in which the same is to be performed, are fully described and

page_text: ascertained in and by the following statement thereof, reference being had
to the Drawings hereunto annexed, and to the figures and letters marked
thereon, that is to say :-
My Invention relates, first, to a mode of manufacturing covered buttons by
dies and pressure by the employment of one metal shell for each button.
Secondly, my Invention relates to a mode of manufacturing covered buttons
by dies and pressure in such manner, that the back surfaces thereof are
partially covered with a covering fabric in such manner that the shanks en-
ployed pass through the covering of the fabric.
And, thirdly, my Invention relates to a novel construction of buttons by
dies and pressure, suitable for brace and other buttons where the needle in
fastening them passes through and through the buttons.
And in order that my Invention may be most fully understood, and readily
carried into effect, I will proceed to describe the Drawings hereunto annexed.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWING No. 1.
This Drawing shews the means of making buttons according to the first and
second parts of my Invention. Figure, 1 shows a circular disc of, copper,
suitable for forming the shell according to the first part of my Invention.
Figure 2 represents the upper and lower dies for sinking the disc of metal into
the form Figure 3, which Figure represents the shell partly sunk in plan and
in section. The shell is next to be operated on by the dies, Figure 4, by
which it will be formed to the shape shewn in plan and section at Figure 5.
The shell thus produced is then to be annealed, and next to be operated on by
the dies, Figure 6, by which the shell will be rendered into the shape Figure 7,
the part a of the shell being formed more cylindrical by the dies Figure 6.
The shell is next to be operated on by the dies, Figure 8, by means of which
a hole is punched through the shell at the part a', and the part a', when thus
produced, may be said to form a short tube a', the object of which is to fix the
covering fabric at the back of the button, by the tubular portion a¹ being
folded or flattened down at the back of the button, when the fabric with a hole
through it has been placed on the tubular part a', as hereafter explained.
The metal shell a, Figure 81, is next to be blacked or japanned, as heretofore
practised in respect to the shells and collets heretofore used in the manufac-
ture of covered buttons.
Figure 9 6 represents a disk of silk or other suitable fabric for covering
the larger part of the back of a button, and it will be seen that this disc
of silk or other fabric b has a hole through it, by means of which it is
placed on the tubular part a¹ of the shell a. and then by submitting the

page_text: shell a with the fabric b on it to the action of the dies, Figure 10, the tubular
part a¹ of the metal shell will be folded down and flattened on to the fabric b;
by which the fabric will be held securely, and there will be a hole through the
shell and through the covering fabric for the passage of a shank; by this
means only a very small portion of the metal at the back of a button will be
seen simply appearing as a narrow ring around the protruding shank; by this
means I am enabled to have all the advantages of an ordinary shank, and yet
for the most part cover the back of the button.
I would here remark that I am aware that buttons have been heretofore
inade, and a patent was obtained for the means of making them, having their
backs covered in such manner that the fabric applied at the back at once serves
as the cover, and also as a means of affixing the button to a garment in place
of using a shank, thus covering the whole of the back of a button, and dis-
pensing with the use of a shank; but such means of making buttons requiro
that the covering fabric for the back, owing to its necessarily being the means
of fixing, should be of a very strong fabric, which is objectionable; and it will
readily be understood that by using shanks passing through the back covering
fabric to affix the buttons to garments, and only partly covering the backs of
the buttons, the fabric used for such partial covering may be of satin, or other
of the finer and more clegant silks, or other suitable fabrics, and it is the mode.
of manufacturing covered buttons by dies and pressure, by causing a shank to,
pass through the back covering fabric, which constitutes the second part of my
Invention. Figure 11 shows a plan and section of the shell a, and back fabric b
affixed thereto.
It will now be desirable to call attention to the peculiar shape of the
shell a at its outer edges a³, where, it will be seen, there is a hollow
circular recess formed, by means of which not only is the back covering
fabric b securely fixed at its outer circumference, but the front covering fabric
c of the button is also securely held and affixed, thus producing a covered
button, employing only one metal shell a. Figure 12 represents a plan and
section of a flexible shank of the ordinary construction, and also two surfaces
of button board; these parts d are placed in the shell a, Figure 11, and a disc
of silk or other plain or ornamental covering fabric c is placed in the covering
dies, Figure 13, and the shell a, with the back fabric 6 affixed thereto, together
with the shank and button board d, are to be placed on the fabric c, as is shewn
in Figure 13; the upper punch or die being caused to descend, will carry down
the various parts into the lower die, and cause the outer edge or circum-
ference of the fabric b to be pressed into the groove or circular recess a³.
around the shell a, and the parts will then assume the positions shewn in plan

page_text: and section at Figure 14; the upper die or punch is then to be raised out of the
lower die and the tube e introduced, by which the outer edge or circumference
of the front covering fabric will be gathered over the circular recess or groove
a of the metal shell a, as is shewn in plan and section at Figure 15. The
upper punch or die is then again to be pressed into the lower die through the
tube e, as is shewn at Figure 16, by means of which the outer edge or circum-
ference of the front covering fabric c will be pressed into the circular groove or
recess a of the shell a, and thus will all the parts be combined, as shown in
plan and section at Figure 17. The button thus far produced will now be ready,
to undergo the final pressure in dies similar to those now used when making
buttons, as heretofore practised, and which are well known, by which the
button, Figure 18, will be formed.
I would remark, that although I prefer the mode of fixing the edges of the
back covering fabric a, where the shank passes through it, by means of a
tubular portion of the shell a, as described, yet I do not confine myself thereto
so long as the edges of the hole through the back covering fabric be otherwise
securely retained and the shank pass through it. Figure 21 shows a slight
variation of the means of affixing a back covering to the shell a, which in this
case is made without the tubular portion a', and in place thereof, a short tubo
a', with a flanch at one end, is used, which tube a', passing through the hole in
the shell a and through the fabric 6 the other end of the tube is to be folded
or flattened down on to the fabric b, as before described.
I would remark, that although I have shewn the first and second parts of
my Invention combined in the same button, yet it will be readily understood that
each
part of the Invention if desired may be separately used in making a
button; thus, by using a shell a, such as is shown at Figuro 21, and no back
covering fabric, a button, according to the first part of my Invention, inay be
made; and further, the collets of other die and pressure made buttons may be
partly covered with fabric and have the shanks protrude therethrough, and
thus be made only according to the second part of my Invention, but I prefer
to combine the first and second parts of my Invention as above described.
I will now proceed to describe to describe the third part of my Invention.
DESCRIPTION OF DRAWING No. 2.
Figure 22 shews a circular disc or blank of copper; Figure 23 shews a
plan and section of a metal shell produced therefrom by suitable dies; and
Figure 24, w, shew's the shell after having had the central portion of metal cut

page_text: ordinary kind used in button, making for producing such like shells, and the
shell in this stage is to be annealed. Figure 25 shews dies suitable for per-
forming the next process of sinking, by means of which the shell w is rendered
into the form shewn in plan and section at Figure 26, being in fact a ring or
hoop having a groove or recess formed all round, as will readily be understood
on examining Figure 26 of the Drawings. To this ring w of Figure 26 a
covering of fabric is to be applied and fixed, and I prefer a strong fabric of
linen, particularly when the buttons are intended to be fixed to garments
which are to be washed. Figure 27, a shews a circular disc of fabric to be
used in forming a button. Figure 28 represents dies similar to those used in
the manufacture of covered buttons. y is the lower dic, and y' the upper die.
The disc of fabric is placed in the lower die, and on it is to be placed the
shell or ring w; the upper die y' is then to be caused to descend, which will
force the parts into the lower die, and cause the parts to assume the position
within the lower die, shewn in section and plan, Figure 29; the upper die is
then raised and the tube y is introduced into the lower die, which gathers the
fabric over the groove or recess formed round the edge of the shell or ring w,
as is indicated in plan and section at Figure 30. The upper die y¹ is again
caused to descend, which forces the edge of the fabric into the recess or groove
around the ring or shell w, as is shewn in plan and section at Figure 31. The
button thus far formed is next submitted to the action of the dies, Figure 32,
by which the outer edge of the fabric into the recess or groove around the ring
or shell w, as is shewn in plan and section at Figure 31. The button thus
far formed is next submitted to the action of the dies, Figure 32, by which the
outer edge of the groove or recess around the ring is depressed, as is indicated
at Figure 33, which shows a plan and section of the button thus far formed;
and in this state the button is to be submitted to the dies, Figure 34, which
will render the button into the form shewn in back and front views and section
at Figure 35, and in this state the button will be in a condition to be attached
to garments by sewing through and through, in like manner to that pursued
when fastening what are called thread buttons. I have only thought it necessary
to shew one size of button made according to each part of my Invention, but
it will be evident that in making other sizes of buttons the dies and the
materials used will be varied accordingly; and I have not thought it necessary
to shew or describe the presses by which the dies are worked, they being well
known and in use by button-makers.
And I would remark, that I prefer using copper (or what is called gilding
metal) for the metal shells employed, because either of those metals allow of
the required beading better than other metal.

page_text: Having thus described the nature of my Invention, and the manner of
performing the same, I would remark, that I do not confine myself to the
precise details, so long as the peculiar character of either part of my Invention
be retained; but what I claim is,―
First, the mode of manufacturing covered buttons by dies and pressure, by
employing metal shells a, having a circular groove or recess a¹, as described.
Secondly, I claim the mode of manufacturing covered buttons by dies and
pressure, by apply back coverings thereto with holes for the passage of
shanks, as above described.
And, thirdly, I claim the mode of manufacturing buttons by dies and pres-
sure, by employing circular rings w and fabric x, as above described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Humphrey Jefferies have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Twentieth day of October, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and forty-one.
L.D.)
AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the Twentieth day of October,
in the year of our Lord 1841, the aforesaid Humphrey Jefferies came before
our said Lady the Queen in Her Chancery, and acknowledged the Specification
aforesaid, and all and every thing therein contained and specified, in form
above written. And also the Specification aforesaid was stamped according
to the tenor of the Statute made for that purpose.
Inrolled the Twenty-first day of October, in the year of our Lord One