Improvements in Pile Dress Materials and in the Method of their Manufacture.
Year: 1894

page_text: Date of Application, 5th Apr., 1894-Accepted, 12th May, 1894
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Pile Dress Materials and in the Method of their
Manufacture.
I DESIRE BERCHON, Manufacturer of Hosiery, Nay Basses Pyrenees in the
Republic of France, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and n what
manner the same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement:-
"
This invention relates to a new dress material of the kind known as "lambswool"
or "Pyrenees cloth or under the general title of " plush dress material" in
which the plush side of the material has the appearance of Utrecht velvet or of a
velvet bearing any other design.
Hitherto these dress materials have been made in whole colours striped or dotted,
but have never yet shown on one side various figures produced by depressions and
reliefs effected on the plush side of the dress material.
"
This new dress material has on one side the ordinary appearance of the material
called "lambs wool or of the plush dress material and on the other side the
piled part presents depressions and reliefs corresponding to a more or less com-
plicated design.
To manufacture this material I use a machine of the kind shown by the figures.
of the annexed drawing.
In this drawing on which the same reference letters indicate the same parts in all
the figures
Fig. 1 is a longitudinal elevation of the machine.
Fig. 2 is a vertical section of the said machine across the line x-y of Fig. 1.
Fig. 3 is a transverse end elevation of this machine.
This machine is formed of a frame a supporting parallel superposed rollers 6 b².
Between these rollers is arranged a metallic cylinder c, the surface of which is
engraved. The engraved cylinder c is hollow and can receive therein a heated
iron, a row of gas jets or any other source of heat. A toothed wheel e or any
mechanical appliance permits of its being rotated around its longitudinal axis.
The rollers bb may be brought to or withdrawn from the exterior surface of the
engraved cylinder c by means of the screws vv which turn in fixed nuts d. I am
thus able to exert a suitable pressure on the material in contact with the cylinder c,
to determine the sharpness of the designs imprinted on these materials. The
cylinder c is kept in the centre of the frame a by the stirrup pieces h.
The cylinder c is engraved over the whole or a part of its periphery and of its
length and its surface presents hollows and reliefs corresponding to the figures to
be produced on the dress material.
It is easily understood that on turning this cylinder c around its axis in contact
with the material carried on the lower drum b¹ the piled part of the material is
imprinted with the designs engraved on the cylinder in consequence of the
temperature of this cylinder and the pressure exerted by the drum b¹ on its
surface.
The engraved cylinder c may be solid or hollow; it may be provided with any
suitable method capable of heating it.
My imprinted dress material may also be manufactured by any system of
machine allowing the material to be imprinted.

page_text: Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. A new dress material, one side of which is a pile such as the material called
"lambswool " 66
or Pyrenées cloth" in which the piled side presents reliefs and
depressions forming a design, substantially as described.
2. The machine for imprinting the piled surface of the plush dress material or of
the material called "lambswool" consisting of an engraved cylinder c heated from
the interior and rotating against a pair of rollers 661 which press the material
against its heated surface, substantially as described.
Dated this 5th day of April 1894.
WHEATLEY & MACKENZIE,
40, Chancery Lane, London, W.C., Agents.