A Process or Method of Producing Figured Moire on Ready Woven Fabrics, and Apparatus therefor.
Year: 1896

page_text: Date of Application, 10th Mar., 1896-Accepted, 11th Apr., 1896
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
A Process or Method of Producing Figured Moire on Ready Woven
Fabrics, and Apparatus therefor.
I, OTTO PASTOR, of 2 Uerdingerstrasse, Crefeld, in the Empire of Germany,
Merchant, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement :-
Figured moire has been hitherto produced in such a manner that during the
weaving of the fabric upon the loom the weft threads are-by the aid of a reed,
the teeth of which are made movable and are by a design-roller forced forward
against the striking member and out of their usual position, according to the
design-more firmly pressed on to the fabric whereby a displacement of the weft
is produced, by which displacement, in a further part of the operation, the figures
(that is to say the portions displaced by the reed) will appear as moire-figures.
This process has the defect that in the first place rather complicated and expensive
devices are required on the loom and that secondly a piece thus woven, is in no
case applicable for any other purpose.
According to this invention figured moire is, in a simple manner, so produced
upon the ready woven fabric, that the latter is passed over a roller provided with
a design, above which roller a knife roller rotates, the knives of which come
in such contact with the projecting parts of the fabric as to produce a dis-
placement of the weft threads thereof. In this manner the design, made upon
the design roller, is transferred upon the fabric, where it is rendered visible
as a consequence of the greater displacement of the weft threads out of their
normal straight position. Subsequently the fabric having been passed through
the tabbying-press in the usual manner, the moire figures of the design are
clearly visible upon the base which latter has likewise received a moire-lustre or
appearance.
The design roller may be provided with a raised or recessed design and may be
made of various kinds of material for example, ebonite, celluloid, felt, wood or
metal, whereas the knives of the knife roller may be made of steel, tortoise or any
other suitable material.
For carrying the above described process into practice I employ the apparatus
shewn in the accompanying drawing, in which
Figure 1 is a side elevation and
Figure 2 is a front elevation of my improved apparatus.
Upon a frame A the knife-roller B rests in bearings b. The bearings bare
displaceably arranged in supports or standards b¹ and can be raised or lowered by
means of screws in connection with hand wheels. The knives of the roller B
conveniently consist of separate blades arranged side by side, which surround the
roller in form of a helical line, as is apparent from Figure 2.
Below the roller B the design roller C is arranged which in the present case is
supposed to be provided with raised design figures. This design roller C moves
on centres c carried by heads d, which are fixed upon a cross-beam e, the extremities
of which latter are enabled to slide up and down in guides farranged on the
frame A. The cross beam a is traversed by two screw bolts g which rest with
their lower extremities upon eccentrics h, which latter are fixed upon a shaft i.
This shaft has its extremities arranged rotatably in the frame A. A haud lever k

page_text: arranged on the shaft serves to turn the shaft with the eccentrics and to thereby
raise or lower the cross beams a with the design roller C.
The machine is driven by the belt pulley m of the shaft u which transmits
its rotary motion on the one hand to the shaft of the knife rollers through the
belt pulley o, the endless belt o¹ and the belt pulley o2 and on the other hand
to the roller D through the belt pulley p, endless belt p¹ and belt pulley p².
The fabric, to be worked upon, is unwound from the feed roller E; it then
passes over the design roller C, where it comes in contact with the knives of the
roller B moving above the fabric, and around the delivering roller D whence it is
wound upon the roller F. which loosely rests upon the roller D.
The machine may of course receive various modifications without the scope of
the invention being thereby altered.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. The process of producing figured moire on ready woven fabric, the
characteristic feature being that the fabric is caused to pass over a design roller,
above which a knife roller rotates, the knives of which are arranged to so touch
the fabric at those places which are made to project according to the design or
pattern produced upon the design roller, that the weft threads of the fabric are
displaced at the places of contact, which places of contact, after the fabric having
been subsequently passed through the tabbying-press, present the appearance of
moire figures substantially as described.
2. The apparatus constructed substantially as described with reference to the
drawings, for the purpose specified.
Dated this 10th day of March 1906
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
45 Southampton Buildings, London, W.C., Agents for the Applicant.