Year: 1886

page_text: I ALFRED JULIUS BOULT of 323 High Holborn in the County of Middlesex
Engineer do hereby declare the nature of this invention (a communication from
Alfred Jeslein of Brussels, Belgium) and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:-
The improvements which form the object of the present invention constitute
a sewing machine to which is given the name of "The Phoenix and is especially
applicable for whip or overstitch, for glovers furriers and hatters.
These improvements consist
1. In a considerable simplification of the mechanism.
2. In the suppression of a certain number of parts and their replacement by
others whose disposition, system and operation have for their object to render the
machine more practical, rapid, solid and durable and more apt to produce nice and
even work.
In this specification only those parts are more especially described, whose
system or operation are modified or altered, without describing those which are
known or indispensable to all glovers or other machines.
In the accompanying drawings Figure A is a side elevation of the machine,
showing the movement of the needle bar and the actuating mechanism.
Figure B a side elevation of the machine showing the oscillating movement of
the overstitch arm support.
Figure C represents the overstitch arm mechanism showing the up and down
movement as well as from right to left or lateral and the excentric cam producing
these different movements.
The other figures are details of the different parts.
1 is the covering plate with the bobbin holders, the tension and thread guide.
2 is the needle bar, which in this system is angular and supported by two bearing
plates provided with adjusting screws; the angular form of the needle bar prevents
oscillation, in case of wear in this mechanism it suffices to screen the bearing

page_text: plates a little closer and the mechanism is again in its normal condition of precision.
This needle bar receives its oscillating motion from the crank 5 and in this system
I use a connecting rod 4 not used in other glovers machines; this system has the
advantage of having much less friction and wear than other similar machines.
This rod 4 being much lighter than those generally used enables the speed to be
nearly doubled because the impetus produced by the upward stroke in its highest
point is reduced in proportion of the weight.
The arm 3 is fixed to the needle bar by a screw and is held rigid by two pins.
During the manufacture of the machine, the workman lowers or raises this arm
and thereby adjusts the speed of the needle bar at the culminating point in
altering the angle of the movement. This is advantageous in so far as it prevents
the breaking of the thread and gives the seam a superior suppleness and finish.
The actuating bar is not used in other similar machines and presents the
following advantages: The actuation is made in direct movement through the
bar 26, which receives its movement from the cam 5 through the medium of
the rocking bar 6 and engaging with the wheel 9 forming part of the feed
mechanism turns this wheel one or more teeth on each revolution of the cam 5.
The bar 26 being in one piece is not liable to deviation or derangement, which
ensures a superior regularity to the actuating mechanism. This bar is mounted
on the side of the machine and is held back obliquely by a spring with the object
of holding the bar back against the rocking bar 6 and sideways to hold the pawl
end against the toothed wheel of the feed mechanism. The lower part of the
rocking bar 6 is arrested in its backstroke by a screw 10 with a locknut, which
screw serves to regulate the stroke of the rocking bar 6. In screwing this
screw 10 in or out a smaller or larger stroke of the feed bar 26 is obtained and
this enables me to use feed wheels of all dimensions or number of teeth, which
enables me to regulate the exact size of the desired stitch.
The arm 23 which supports the feed mechanism crosses the machine to its
hind part and so enables the machine to be easily mounted or dismounted from
a table,
The thread presser 35 is pivoted on a screw 30°; it has a spring 36b and a
steel slide block 36 operated at each revolution of the machine by the cam 5.
This thread presser has the advantage that it presses gradually against the thread
pressing disc 2 of the needle bar because of the spring 36B and the thread will
not be broken by a smart stroke or if suddenly arrested in its course.
Figures B and C represent the centre of the machine i.c. the overstitch arm.
The arm 28 is angular and is held against the inner side of the covering plate by
a bearing plate 27, which can be raised or lowered at will to allow for wear
resulting from the working of the machine. The extremity of 28 is bent in horse
shoe form in which horse shoe is adjusted the block 30. This horse shoe is
sufficiently flexible to be screwed together in case of wear. In the block 30 is a
slot in which is adjusted the overstitch arm 32. This block 30 is also flexible to
be screwed together in case of wear, and this arrangement prevents oscillation in
either direction.
The friction roller 33 consists of four pieces i.e. the roller A the fixed sliding
piece B sliding on the surface of the excentric which gives the movement, a
locknut C and a screw D. This friction roller can be adjusted at will, which gives
considerable advantage in adjusting the overstitch and can when worn out be
replaced with little cost. The bent arm 31 is fixed on 28 end serves to commu-
nicate the lateral oscillating movement received from the cam 29. Its lower end
is held in a slotted bracket 34 so as to prevent oscillation in the movement of the
overstitch arm. The needle holder 2ª consists of 5 parts, fixed on the needle bar
by two screws and it is easy to adjust thereby the height or direction of the
needle in reference to the stitches.
It is understood that many of the parts may be modified in form or dimensions
without deviating from the spirit of the invention.

page_text: Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed as communicated to
me by my foreign correspondent I declare that I claim is,
1. The angular needle bar in combination with the crank which gives it its
motion and the socket which allows the angle of the movement to be adjusted
substantially as specified.
2. The feed mechanism consisting of an arm receiving its motion from an
excentric and communicating this motion to a lever which at each revolution
turns a toothed wheel forming part of the feeding mechanism for one or more
teeth, in combination with a spiral spring which holds the lever back and a screw
which regulates the stroke of the lever substantially as specified.
3. The large arm supporting the feed mechanism passing to the back of the
machine substantially as specified.
4. The thread presser with a spring and a friction roller operated by the
excentric substantially as specified.
5. The overstitch arm, consisting of an angular arm, held by a movable bearing
plate which ends in horse-shoe form into which fits a slotted piece attached to the
overstitch arm, this horse shoe and slotted piece being flexible enough to be
screwed together in case of wear substantially as specified.
6. The friction roller 33, which can be moved backward or forward to regulate
the overstitch arm substantially as specified.
7. The needle holder with its screws allowing the position and direction of the
needle to be adjusted substantially as specified.
8. The combination of all the herein described parts substantially as specified.
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W. P. THOMPSON & BOULT,
Agents.