IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OR PRODUCTION OF FIGURED PILE FABRICS
Year: 1855

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Frederick William Norton, of Edinburgh, in the
County of Mid-Lothian, North Britain, Manufacturer, for the Invention
of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OR PRODUCTION OF FIGURED PILE
FABRICS."
Sealed the 19th October 1855, and dated the 10th May 1855.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Frederick William Norton
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
10th May 1855.
I, FREDERICK WILLIAM NORTON, of Edinburgh, in the County of Mid-
Lothian, North Britain, Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of the
said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OR PRODUCTION OF
FIGURED PILE FABRICS" to be as follows:-
This Invention relates to the weaving or manufacturing of printed warps
for the production of printed pile or velvet fabrics on the double cloth principle.
In one modification of the weaving details for carrying out this Invention
in practice, five separate warp beams and six separate heddles are used. The
upper section or division of the cloth is woven from a ground or foundation
warp, carried upon a pair of beams suitably disposed in the upper part of the
loom framing, so as to present two parallel lines of ground warp threads to the
action of a corresponding pair of heddles, forming the back set of the series of
six. The lower section or division of the cloth is similarly produced from a

page_text: ground warp, carried upon a pair of warp beams set in the same vertical line
beneath, and from which beams separate parallel lines of warp threads pass
through a corresponding pair of heddles, forming the centre pair of the six.
The printed warp pile, which forms the surface figure common to both sections
of the cloth, is produced from a warp carried upon a single beam, disposed, as
regards its horizontal position, between the two pairs of ground warp beams.
From the pile warp beam the line or lines of pile warp pass through a pair of
corresponding heddles, forming the front pair of the six. The heddles actuated
in any convenient manner from the sheds of the five warps in the ordinary
manner for the interweaving of the pile warp into both sections of the double
fabric, that is to say, into both the upper and lower cloth. Two separate
shuttles with two separate wefts are of course used for binding the figure pile
warp alternately into the two sets of ground warp. The length of the figure
pile is measured and governed by the distance apart of the two sections of the
fabric, the pile warp being passed to and fro between the two lines of ground
warp, so that when woven, the compound cloth being split or divided through
the centre of its thickness, each separate section of the cloth then carries its
own length of figured face pile, equal to one-half the length of the pile
threads, as originally extending between the two sections in a continuous
length. The compound fabric may either be divided or cut in two by a
horizontaly-worked knife during the actual weaving process, or it may be
severed after the fabric is removed from the loom. The pile warp is primarily
printed with the required device in an elongated condition, the amount of
elongation of the figure being arranged to correspond to the amount of take-up
or contraction due to the looping of the pile warp between the two ground
warps; hence, when the fabric is woven in the manner herein-before described,
and duly severed, two separate figured pile fabrics with symmetrical and com-
plete devices thereon are produced.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by William Norton, of Kirk Burton, near Huddersfield, in the County 3
of York, Gentleman, as Administrator of the said Frederick William
Norton, deceased, in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 10th November
1855.

page_text: WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Tenth day of May, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and fifty-five, in the eighteenth year of Her reign,
did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto Frederick
William Norton, of Edinburgh, in the County of Mid-Lothian, North
Britain, Manufacturer, Her special licence that he, the said Frederick
Willian Norton, his executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others
as he, the said Frederick William Norton, his executors, administrators, or
assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time
and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and
lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of
Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Inven-
tion for IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OR PRODUCTION OF FIGURED PILE
FABRICS." upon the condition (amongst others) that he, the said Frederick
William Norton, his executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing
under his, or their, or their or one of their hands and seals, should particularly
describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner
the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great
Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the
date of the said Letters Patent: And whereas the said Frederick William
Norton departed this life intestate on or about the Fifteenth day of October
now last past: And whereas Letters of Administration of all and singular the
goods, chattels, and credits of the said Frederick William Norton were, on the
Eighth day of November instant, granted to me, the said William Norton, by
the Prerogative Court of the Archbishop of Canterbury:
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said William Norton, the Administrator of the
said Frederick William Norton, deceased, do hereby declare the nature of
the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be par-
ticularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement, reference
being had to the accompanying Drawings, and to the letters and figures marked
thereon, that is to say:-
The said Invention relates to the weaving or manufacturing of printed
warps for the production of printed pile or velvet fabrics on the doublecloth
principle.
In one modification of the weaving details for carrying out this Invention
in practice, five separate warp beams and six separate heddles are used. The
upper section or division of the cloth is woven from a ground or foundation
warp, carried upon a pair of beams suitably disposed in the upper part of the
loom framing, so as to present two parallel lines of ground warp threads to

page_text: the action of a corresponding pair of heddles, forming the back set of the
series of six. The lower section or division of the cloth is similarly produced
from a ground warp, carried upon a pair of warp beams set in the same
vertical line beneath, and froin which beans separate parallel lines of
warp threads pass through a corresponding pair of heddles, forming the
centre pair of the six; the warp threads for the upper and lower sections of
the cloth being thus at a considerable angle to each other, which arrange-
ment will greatly assist the subsequent severing or cutting of the fabric.
The printed warp pile, which forms the surface figure common to both
sections of the cloth, is produced from a warp carried upon a single beam,
disposed, as regards its horizontal position, between the two pairs of ground
warp beans.
From the pile warp beam the line or linea of pile warp pass
through a pair of corresponding heddles, forming the front pair of the six.
The heddles actuated in any convenient manner from the sheds of the five
warps for the interweaving of the pile warp into both sections of the double
fabric, that is to say, into both the upper and lower cloth. Two separate
shuttles with two separate wefts may be used for binding the figure pile warp
alternately into the two sets of ground warp; or as only one shuttle is operated
upon at one time, the top and bottom cloth might be woven with one shuttle
and one weft; but when two shuttles are used, the edges of the cloth have a
better appearance. The length of the figure pile is measured and governed
by the distance apart of the two sections of the fabric, the pile warp being
passed to and fro between the two lines of ground warp, so that when woven,
the compound cloth being split or divided through the centre of its thickness,
cach separate section of the cloth then carries its own length of figured face
pile, equal to one-half the length of the pile threads, as originally extending
between the two sections in a continuous length. The compound fabric may
either be divided or cut in two by a horizontally-worked knife during the
actual weaving process, or it may be severed after the fabric is removed from
the loom. The pile warp is primarily printed with the required device in an
elongated condition, the amount of elongation of the figure being arranged to
correspond to the amount of take-up or contraction due to the looping of the
pile warp between the two ground warps. Hence, when the fabric is woven
in the manner herein-before described, and duly severed, two separate figured
pile fabrics with symmetrical and complete devices thereon are produced.
And in order that the said Invention may be properly understood, I shall
now proceed to describe the several Figures on the Sheet of Drawings hereunto
attached, such Figures being explanatory of two of the modifications under
which the said Invention may be practically worked out.

page_text: Fig. 1 isa diagram section. shewing the arrangements necessary for weaving
with six heldle according to the modification already briefly described herein;
Figs. 2 and 3 are enlarged longitudinal sectional Diagrams, explanatory of the
weaving process, and showing the double cloth produced; Fig. 4 is a vertical
longitudinal section of a loom, shewing the arrangements used according to a
modification of the weaving process in which eight heddles are employed;
aud Fig.5 is a longitudinal sectional Diagram of the cloth woven according to
this modification.
According to the first modification, as illustrated by Figs. 1, 2, and 3, five
separate warp beams A, B, C, D, and E, are used, and are operated upon by
six separate heddles 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6. The upper section or division of the
double cloth Fis woven from a ground or foundation warp G, carried on the two
upperinost beams A, B, forming a considerable angle with the lower warp
threads H, as will be seen on reference to the Drawings. These beams A, B,
are arranged so as to present two parallel lines of threads to the action of the
corresponding pair of heddles 1, 2. The lower section or division of the double
cloth is similarly produced from a ground warp H, carried upon the lowermost
beams C, D, from which beam separate lines of threads pass through the
corresponding pair of heddles 3, 4. The printed warp pile; which forms the
$3,4
figure surface common to both sections of the cloth, is produced from a warp I,
carried upon the beam E. From this beam the line or lines of pile warp
pass through the pair of heddles 5, 6, as is well understood in the manufacture
of single fabrics, the pile or pattern surface of which is formed from a printed
warp. The pattern has to be printed in an elongated form upon this warp, the
extent of the elongation being governed by the amount of material taken up in
the weaving action
According to the mode of weaving double fabrics, which forms the first
modification of the present Invention, the patternas printed upon the pile warp
requires to be elongated to the same extent that would be required for a single
fabric; but in producing similar goods, double the number of warp threads are
required for the double fabric, every two threads being exactly alikeas regards
the pattern printed upon them, which pattern can consequently be printed
upon both threads at one operation. In the Diagram sections, Figs. 2 and 3,
each thread of a pair of warp threads is indicated by a different color. In
Fig. 2 merely the pile warp threads I, and the respective weft shots J and K
of the upper and lower section of the double cloth, are shown; but in Fig. 4
the ground warps G and H are also shewn; and in the latter Figure a portion
of the cloth is shewn as separated into two distinct fabrics. The pile warp
threads are in two sets, each exactly alike, and one actuated by the heddle 5

page_text: and the other by the heddle 6, whilst each split of the reed has passed through
it two pile warp threads, one from each set. In the weaving action, the
heddles 5 and 6 are actuated in such a manner that each set of the pile warp
threads is woven alternately into the double fabric. Thus, in Figs. 2 and 3,
the set of pile warp threads I, represented by the blue line, is shed so that the
first upper weft shot J passes below it, and it is then shot so that the first lower
weft shot K passes above it. Next, the other set of pile warp threads 1, repre
sented by the red liue, is shed so that the second upper weft shot J passes below
it, and it is then shot so that the lower weft shot K passes above it. After this
the other set of pile warp-threads comes into play, and is woven in with the
third upper and lower weft shots, and so on throughout, each set of pile warp
threads being woven in alternately. Thus, by using duplicate sets of pile
warp threads in this way, the pattern upon these threads will require to be
elongated to the same extent that would be necessary were only a single set of
threads used. In the modification, illustrated by Figs. 4 and 5 on the Sheet
of Drawings hereunto attached, the general arrangements are much the same
as in the modification herein before described and illustrated by Figs. 1, 2,
and 3, and the same parts are in each case indicated by the same letters of
reference.
This second modification differs from the first in as far as regards the pile.
warp threads. These threads are in this second modification divided into four
sets, each exactly alike, and are actuated by four heddles 5,6,7, and S, instead
of only two, as in the first modification. Each split of the reed has two pile
warp threads passed through it, the four threads passed through each two splits
being exactly alike. In this case the pattern on the pile warp threads requires
to be clongated to about the same extent as for a single cloth pile fabric, and
the printing of these warps will consequently be much facilitated, as will be
well understood by the manufacture of printed warp goods. The Diagram,
Fig. 2, hercin-before referred to, will take up twice as much as Fig. 5, if both
have the same number of picks to the inch; but if Fig. 5 has double the
number of picks that there are in Fig. 2, then they will both take up the same
quantity. In Figs. 2 & 5 there are the same number of warp ends used,
but the printed warp used for Fig. 2 need only be one-half the thickness of
that used in Fig. 5, so that the cost of each will be about the same. In the
Diagram section, Fig. 5, the four sets of pile warp threads are indicated by lines
of different colors. Following the weaving action from left to right, as indicated
in this Figure, we observe that the first set of pile warp threads I, iudicated by
the black line, is shed so as to be woven in with the first weft shot J of the top
cloth, this shot passing below it; the same set of warp threadsis then shed so

page_text: as to be woven in with the first weft shot K of the bottom cloth, this shot
passing above it; after which this set of warp threads is not woven into either
cloth until the fifth weft shots of each. The set of pile warp threads indicated
by the blue line next comes into play, and is woven in with the second top and
bottom weft shots J and K; after which this set of warp threads is not woven
in until the sixth top and bottom weft shots. The set of pile warp threads
indicated by the red line is next woven in with the third top and bottom weft
shots, and afterwards with the seventh top and bottom weft shots. Finally,
the set of pile warp threads indicated by the yellow line is woven in with the
fourth, and afterwards with the eighth top and botton weft shots, and so the
weaving action proceeds to the end of the piece, each set of pile warp threads
being woven into the two cloths at every fourth pair of weft shots only, the sets
warp threads being suitably shed in regular succession.
of
As I have herein-before mentioned, for weaving a double fabric according to
the second modification (Fig. 5), the pattern upon the pile warp requires to be
elongated to about the same extent as is necessary for single pile, and the
pattern on the warp of the first modification (Fig. 2) requires to be elongated
twice as much as that of the second modification (Fig. 5); the corresponding
threads of the four sets of pile warps being exactly alike, the whole may be
printed at one operation; and as the pattern requires to be elongated to about
the same extent only as for ordinary printed warp pile fabrics, the arrange-
ments necessary for obtaining this elongation in the printing process will be
considerably facilitated, as will be well understood by the manufacturer of
printed warp goods.
It will be obvious to the practical weaver that the printed pile warp may
consist of three or any other convenient number of separate but corresponding
and similar sets, as well as of two or four sets, as, according to the two modi-
fications herein-before described; and the extent to which the pattern will
require to be elongated, will in each case correspond to the number of sets of
which the printed pile warp consists. Thus, if three sets are used, the extent
of clongation of the pattern will be about two thirds; and if five or six sets
are used, two-fifths or two-sixths (that is to say one-third) of that required
in ordinary single printed warp goods of the saine class. It is also obvious
that the arrangement of the warps and wefts, and the mode of producing the
grounds or foundations of the two fabrics, may be modified in various ways,
according to the particular kind of cloth required.
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of the said
Invention, and the manuer in which the same is or may be used or carried
into effect, I may observe, in conclusion, that I do not confine or restrict myself

page_text: to the precise details or arrangements which I have had occasion to describe or
refer to, as many variations may be made therefrom without deviating from
the principles or main features of the said Invention; but what I consider
to be novel and original, and therefore claim as the Invention secured to the
said Frederick William Norton by the herein-before in part recited Letters
Patent, is,
First, the herein-before described systems or modes of weaving printed
warps for the production of a double printed pile or velvet fabric to be divided
into two separate single fabrics after having been woven.
Second, the system or mode of so disposing or arranging the beams of the
foundation or ground warps, by placing the beam of the upper foundation warp
higher than the breast beam, and the beam of the lower foundation warp lower
than the breast beam, each warp forming an angle therewith, the pile warp
working between the two foundation warps, and the foundation warp beams
being parallel to each other, so that the two cloths will be kept the requisite
distance asunder during the weaving process, and when cut each cloth will
have its requisite length of pile.
Third, the system or mode of weaving double printed pile or velvet fabrics
wherein two or more sets of printed warp threads are used, and are woven in
alternately or in succession, so that each set of threads is only worked into
the fabrics at intervals, and so that the pattern upon each set of threads only
requires to be elongated to about the same extent that would be necessary were
a single set of threads used, as herein-before described.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Norton, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, the Eighth day of November, One thousand eight
hundred and fifty-five.