Improvements in and relating to the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes.
Year: 1898

page_text: Date of Application, 9th July, 1898-Accepted, 17th Dec., 1898
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in and relating to the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes.
I, FRIEDRICH SEGELIORST, of Offenbach-on-the-Main, in the Empire of
Germany, Boot Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and
in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement:-
-
My invention relates to the manufacture of boots and shoes.
In the boots and shoes heretofore made the crimping of the toe or toe cap
round the toe of the last generally gives rise to trouble and difficulties. As the
leather must be cut, the upper, lining, cap and welt will suffer, so that they are
already damaged prior to the use of the boot or shoe.
By my improved method hereinafter set forth, which is illustrated in the
accompanying drawing, I give the toe cap or the toe of the upper, before putting
the upper upon the last, such a form that the crimping thereof will be obviated
For this purpose the upper is either furnished with a toe cap of appropriate shape
ready to fit the toe of the last, or its toe is previously shaped and fulled in con-
formity with the toe of the last.
In the accompanying drawing;
Figure 1 represents an upper which is provided with a toe cap.
Figure 2 shows a plan, as seen from below, of a toe cap provided with a slit.
in its under side.
Figure 3 is a perspective view of a modified toe cap having two cuts in its
under side forming a tongue.
Figure 4 shows an under plan of an upper crimped over the last and provided
with a toe cap shaped and fulled to fit the toe of the last.
As already mentioned, either the toe is fulled in one piece with the upper a so
that on being put upon the last it will fit the toe of such last without being
crimped, or the cap b is made by itself so as to fit the toe of the last and is then
attached to the upper. At its under side the toe cap b to be put on may be
furnished with two cuts so as to form a tongue c, Figure 3, thereby enabling the
last to be conveniently inserted. Being thus capable of adaption at its lower part,
the toe cap will fit completely upon the last. It must usually be made of
This cap b
thicker leather than the upper to afford greater strength.
may be
made of any form by fulling, its under side being either furnished with a slot
in the middle, as shown in Figure 2, or with two cuts, as represented in Figure 3.
The finished cap, corresponding to the toe of the last, is attached to the upper. In
the case of the upper a shown in Figure 1, the tongue c of the toe cap 6 is bent
downward a little for the sake of clearness.
When the upper thus made is put on the last, a large amount of the work
which has heretofore been necessary in the old method is dispensed with. The
nose of the toe cap need not be cut or crimped, as it adapts itself easily and
smoothly to the toe of the last. Joint caps and all other stiffening material
may be dispensed with and the upper attached to the welt in the easiest
manner.

page_text: Figure 4 shows an under plan of a boot or shoe having a fulled cap 6 formed to
fit the toe of the last. It will be seen that only the upper is crimped, which is
very easily effected.
The advantages which my said method possesses lie not only in the quick and
sure operation, but also chiefly in the improvement of boots and shoes as regards
their strength and hygienic properties.
Owing to the fact that the toe or toe cap of the boot or shoe does not require
to be crimped round the toe of the last, there is no liability of the leather, lining
and welt becoming damaged.
As the cap itself is already strong enough, the joint cap may be entirely dis-
pensed with, thus the boot or shoe gains in appearance and lightness, and the
toes of the foot are not hurt by pressure, such as is the case with many boots
and shoes.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is:-
First. The improved method of manufacturing boots and shoes, characterized
by the feature that the upper, before being put on the last, is furnished with a
toe or toe cap fulled or formed to fit the last without being crimped, substantially
as set forth.
Second. In the manufacture of boots and shoes the improved toe cap fulled
and formed substantially as set forth. with reference to Figures 2 and 3.
Third. In the manufacture of boots and shoes the arrangement such that the
upper, before being put upon the last, is fulled and formed at the toe to
correspond to the form of the toe of the last, substantially as set forth.
Dated this 26th day of November 1898.
J. LINCOLN & Co.,
75, Chancery Lane, London, W.C., Agents for the Applicant.