Improvements in Chain Stitch Sewing Machines for the simul- taneous Formation of Two or More Rows of Stitches.
Year: 1896

page_text: Date of Application, 14th Aug., 1896-Accepted, 28th Nov., 1896
COMILLIM NI MUITICATION.
Improvements in Chain Stitch Sewing Machines for the simul-
taneous Formation of Two or More Rows of Stitches.
A communication from PAUL ALFRED KÜHN, Foreman, and PAUL FRIEDRICH
KLUGE, Clerk, both of Burgstädt, District of Leipsic, Saxony, Empire of
Germany.
I, ALFRED JULIUS BOULT of 111 Hatton Garden in the County of Middlesex,
Chartered Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in
what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This invention relates to that class of chain stitch sewing machine which by means
of two or more needles (arranged on the same needle-bar) and swinging loop takers
produce ornamental stitches or rows of stitches 'in such a manner, that the loops of
the needles are all transferred at the next following stitch to the foremost needle.
The invention consists substantially in 'simultaneously producing by means of one
machine two or more siích ornamental rows of stitches whether they be parallel or
divergent. The machine is mainly destined to be used for producing three
divergent scams or rows of stitches on the backs of gloves which 'seams hitherto
have been produced singly, one after the other. Each set of parts necessary for
producing one row of stitches comprising a needle bar with two or more needles,
presser, feeder, and loop taker (tögether with their respective operating mechanism)
is arranged for the above mentioned purpose in one or more duplicate sets; in the
first case both sets may be movable in the second, 'one (central) set is movable only
in the ordinary vertical direction and the others are movable (relatively to the
stitches produced by the central set); this movement may be effected, for producing
divergent seams, during the working, either by hand (preferably for curved seams)
or mechanically (preferably for divergent but straight seams).
In the drawing is represented a machine with three sets of parts-the central
"fixed" set (movable only in a vertical direction) and the two outer sets movable
in opposite lateral directions.
Figure 1 is a side elevation, the 'slide for moving the movable sets of parts being
shown partially broken away; Figure 2 a side elevation and Figure 3 a plan of the
upper part of 'said 'slide.
Figure 4 is a horizontal 'section on the line 4-4 of Figure 1 on an enlarged
scale.
Figures 5 and 6 are respectively front views according to Figure 1 seen from the
right and left hand sides 'respectively.
Figures 7 and 8 are transverse sections through the lower box shaped part of the
frame with the mechanism 'contained 'therein, taken on the lines 7-7 and 8-8 of
Figure 4 and to the same scale.
Fig. 7 is an enlarged elevation of part of Fig. 7.
Figures 9 and 10 show the head, omitting certain parts in side elevation' (as in
Figure 1) and in front view (as in Figure 6) on a larger scale.
Figure 11 is a plan of the whole machine (according to Figure 1).
Figures 12 and 13 show examples of ornamental stitches (produced by two
needles) and,
Figures 14-21 show the formation of the stitches.

page_text: Such parts as are generally found in machines of a similar kind and form no part
of the invention such as the frame, fly wheel or driving disc, spindles for the spools,
parts for guiding the threads and so on, are left out of the drawings for the sake of
clearness.
The manner of forming the stitch illustrated in Figures 14-21 is well known
but may however be briefly described. For the better illustration one of the most
ordinary forms of stitch Figure 12 is chosen. Only the formation of one stitch and
therefore the co-operation of one pair of needles with one loop-taker will be described;
the manner of working of all the three sets as regards the formation of the stitch
being identical. The two needles b and bb (for instance of the central "fixed" set
producing the central row of stitches in Figure 12) are arranged one behind the
other in the direction of the stitch; and are mounted on the same needle bar B
(Figure 1). E is the hook shaped loop taker which besides its oscillating movement
makes a small reciprocating movement (at right angles to the plane common to both
needles) for the purpose of avoiding in the return (for instance as in Figure 15)
the descending needles. St is the fabric to be stitched or ornamented.
In Figure 14 the needles are shown in the highest position, E in its farthest
right hand end position. St is moved forward by the feeder in the direction of the
arrow the length of one stitch. band bb descend and pass through the two loops
of thread (from the previons stitch) held by E, while E being in front of the
needles moves backwards: Figure 15. In Figure 16 b and bb are shown in their
lowest position and E in its end position on the left hand side. Immediately
afterwards b and bb again rise, E-still being in front of the needles-travels to
the right hand side. In this movement the hook of E (Figure 17) engages between
the needles and the threads drawn down by the latter, takes up the loops and pulls
them forward (Figure 18 the positious corresponding to Figure 14) E in this
movement comes into the path of the needles b and bb, in order to hold the loops
within reach of the needles in their descent until the engagement takes place;
immediately after that E again moves forward: Figure 19. and so on.
exactly similar manner the formation of seams according to Figure 13 takes
place..
In an
In the machine illustrated in the accompanying drawings there are three sets of
parts for the formation of each stitch or row of stitches, comprising needle
bars B B B loop takers E E E together with corresponding pressers C C¹ C
and feeders D Di D; the driving inechanism being partly common to all three
sets. B, C, D, E, belong to the central "fixed" set, the other parts are divided
between the two laterally movable sets B' C' D' E' belonging to one set, and B'C'
D E to the other.
The driving shaft A (Figures 1, 4, 5, 7, 8, 11,) driven by hand or otherwise,
drives the three needle bars by means of an eccentric and rod I and a lever 2 pivoted
upon 2 (Figures 5, 11). The lever 2 engages by means of a bolt 3 directly with
the needle bar (Figures 1, 6). To B is secured by a pin 17 a small frame 18
(Figures 1, 11) which causes by means of pins 19 the needle bars B' B' to partici-
pate in its up and down movement but allows them to move laterally.
In similar manner the presser-rods C, C, C are, connected by a small frame 20
in order to enable them to be raised and lowered simultaneously, C' and C' being
however movable relatively to C. c, c, c² are the corresponding presser feet. The
raising and lowering of the pressers is effected in the manner usual in the sewing
machines by means of a hand-lever, not shown in the drawings.
In Figures 1, 6, 9, 10 the head is shown forked and the fork arms 15 form
triangular guides. On the latter are mounted guide blocks G', G, G. The central
one, G is screwed fast while G and G2 which are pulled towards each other and
towards G by springs 16, are adjustable in 15. In the laterally projecting vertically
perforated lugs 99 are guided the needle bars, the presser rods being guided in
similar lugs 99 99 99. While therefore B', B, B and C, C, C vertically
reciprocate in G, G, G2, B' with C, B with C can be moved out relatively to
each other by G or G2 against the action of the springs, 16.
او

page_text: If there be only two sets of parts, then both may be movable, or one may be
"fixed" i.e. not movable laterally like G-B-C and the other be movable.
D', D, D' (Figures 4, & 7,) are the feeders which besides an oscillating up and
down movement have a reciprocating movement in the same plane. D is "fixed"
D' and Dare adjustable on a pin 6 (Figures 4, 7) which is supported by arms 5
pivotted on 5. The rod 4" of the eccentric 4 mounted on A engages with the pin 6,
whereby a reciprocating motion is communicated to the feeders. The slots
in D D D enclose the eccentric extension a of A whereby a swinging motion is
produced. The feeders engage with the stuff or fabric by means of arms d¹ d d³
projecting upwards and passing through the plate S.
The hook shaped loop-takers E', E, E (Figures 1, 4, 7) are carried by rods e'ee
arranged parallel to each other and rigidly connected to the discs mounted
on the shaft F (see Figure 8). An eccentric 7 on A connected by its rod 7" with
the pin 8 of the disc/ produces a rocking motion of the shaft F which is transmitted
to the loop-takers as a swinging motion. E-e-f which belong to B, are "fixed"
that is, have no lateral movement, (except for the small reciprocating motion of the
Joop-taker for the purpose already described). f2 and fare on the contrary
movable on F for which purpose the shaft F is provided with feathers 11 (Figure 4)
which cause the rocking motion of f and fadmitting at the same time of the
latter being moved.
The reciprocating movement before referred to, of E-- is effected by an
arm 9 secured to Fengaging with a cam 10 on the shaft A (Figures 4, 8). The
adjustable discs and are grasped by forked arms 12 which are guided in
the slots of a rail 13 (Figures 4, 8) and engage with the cams 14 on A; the
cams 14, 14 are movable on feathers on the shaft A similarly to
When therefore the discs 14 14 revolve with A, the sets E--and
reciprocate on F.
and f'.
ƒ
If there are only two sets, then, as already mentioned with relation to needle bars
and pressers, both the feeders and loop-takers may be movable on one set, as D-E
may be "fixed" and the other movable.
According to the arrangement described three parallel rows of stitches will be
produced under the assumption that the parts belonging to each set (for instance
G-B' C'-D-E) are in a certain position and are maintained in that position
during the work. The question now is to move the needle bars and pressers in
accordance with the feeders and loop-takers in such a manner as to cause the two
outer rows of stitches to diverge in a straight or curved direction. This movement
in the machine illustrated takes place automatically during the sewing operation.
It is effected by the radially recessed and partly bent disc 21 on the shaft A
(Figures 1, 11) wbich disc co-operates with the crown 22 so as to form a kind of
worm-gear. The edge of 21 engages between the teeth of the crown wheel 22
without causing the latter to rotate till the bent part turns the wheel to the extent
of one tooth; at each complete turn of A, which makes one stitch, therefore between
each two stitches, a further turning of 22 takes place. From the vertical spindle 23
the movement is transmitted by a pair of toothed wheels 24 to the spindle 25 and
to its cam 26. The latter acts on a roller 27 and thereby causes the branched
slide H to move gradually forward. H is guided on the frame in a suitable manner.
The upper horizontal arm of the slide (see especially Figures 2 and 3) is bifurcated,
and encloses the frame-arm and head and is directly rigidly connected with the
front slide piece or block G' by screws (Figure 9). G participates therefore in
the movement of the slide towards the left (Figure 1). At the same time (in
production of symmetrical patterns as in Figures 12 and 13) G' must be moved
towards the right hand side. For this purpose the pin 28 of the lever 29 (Figures 9
and 10) enters a hole in H, said lever being pivoted on the "fixed" block and
being connected by a hinged link 30 to the slide G. The parts 28-30 are prefer-
ably in duplicate that is to say one set on each side of the frame head.
From the upper arm H of the slide there extends downwards a part H¹ (shown
in Figures 1 and 2 partly broken off, in Figure 3 attached to the slide, in Figure 8.

page_text: in its lower part, and in Figure 4 in cross section). It effects a rigid connec-
tion between H and the lower bar H' of the slide guided in the box shaped part
of the frame.
This bar engages by its fork 31 (Figure 4) the feeder D', which is thus moved
to the left hand side similarly to G-B-C. The feeder D is engaged by a
fork 32 which is arranged on the upper arm of a lever 33. The latter is pivoted
at 34 (Figures 7 & 74) and its downwardly extending arm is provided with a pin
entering into a slot in the bar H. The surfaces of the fork 32 facing each other
and receiving between them the feeder D are shaped in such manner (see
Figure 7) as to allow of up and down movement of D2 even when the lever is in
an inclined position. When the slide H-H-H passes to the left, the feeder D'
will be moved to the right with the parts G-B-C².
In order to cause the loop-taker mechanism E-- to move to the left in
accordance with G-B-C and allow at the same time, reciprocating movement of
said mechanism the corresponding cam 14 on the shaft A is surrounded by the
fork 40 on H (Figure 4). A second fork 35 (Figures 4, 8) guided in a straight
line by its end moving on a pin 36 engages with the cam 14, on shaft A, which
operates the parts E-e-f. A lever 37 is connected to 35 which lever is pivoted
at 38 on the part Z of the frame and the lower arm of which is hinged to H2 at 39
(Figure 8). The movement of the slide H-H-H' to the left thus produces in
the loop-taker mechanism E, a movement to the right corresponding with
the parts GB-C.
In this manner the movable sets of parts are after each stitch moved away from
the middle "fixed" sets, and divergent straight rows of stitches, of equal length,
as in Figs. 12 and 13, are produced. When however a cam 26 of correspondingly
altered form is used, curved rows of stitches can be produced. The rows of stitches
need not be divergent, for instance by means of a cam-dise with a wavy edge (which
alternately moves the movable sets away from and towards each other) substantially
parallel but wavy seams can be produced. If it is desired to produce irregular
ornamental lines, then the slide H-H-H' may be also moved by hand. Also
other means than those herein deseribed may be used for operating the sets of parts
and the chief parts. The number of needles on each needle bar may vary, and also
the number of sets of parts may be any desired.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion as communicated to me by my foreign correspondents and in what manner
the same is to be performed, I declare that what I claim is.-
1. A chain stitch sewing machine for the simultaneous production of two or more
ornamental rows of stitches by two or more needles on each needle bar, charac
terised by two or more sets of parts (needle bar, presser, feeder, loop taker and
their operating mechanism) for the formation of each row of stitches which parts
can be moved away from or towards each other in a direction at right angles to the
direction of movement of the fabric.
2. A chain stitch sewing machine as described in Claim 1, characterised by one
or more "fixed" (that is movable only in a vertical direction) sets and one or more
"movable" (that is, movable laterally as well as vertically) sets or parts for the
formation of rows of stitches.
3. A chain stitch sewing machine as described in Claim 1, characterised by a
centrally "fixed" set and two outer "movable" sets of parts for the formation of
rows of stitches.
4. A chain stitch sewing machine as described in Claim 1, characterised by one
or more "movable" sets and means for operating all the parts belonging to the
same set in order that they may co-operate together to form the desired row of
stitches.
5. A chain stitch sewing machine as described in Claim 1, characterised by a
central "fixed" and two outer "movable" sets of parts and means for the simul-
táneous movement of the outer sets in opposite directions.

page_text: 6. A chain stitch sewing machine as described in Claims 1, and 5, combined with
means for the automatic movement of the outer sets in directions opposite to each
other during the sewing operation.
7. A chain stitch sewing machine as described in Claims 1 and 6, in which a
slide H-H-H2 is operated from the driving shaft A, said slide acting directly
on a slide block G for guiding the needle bar B¹ and the presser C¹ and on the
feeder D' and the driving mechanism of the loop taker, while it acts on the slide
block G2, for guiding the needle bar B' and the presser C by means of levers 29, 30,
on the feeder D' by means of a lever 33, and on the driving mechanism of the loop.
taker E by means of a lever 37, so that both sets of mechanism are moved simul-
taneously in opposite directions substantially as described.
8. In a chain stitch sewing machine for the simultaneous production of two or
more ornamental rows of stitches, cam and lever mechanism for producing
divergent rows of stitches in a straight or curved direction, substantially as
described.
9. The combination and arrangement of parts constituting a complete chain stitch.
sewing machine substantially as described and for the purpose specified.
Dated this 8th day of August 1896.
BOULT & WADE,
Agents for the Applicant.