Improvements in Boot Sewing Machinery.
Year: 1887

page_text: Date of Application, 8th Mar., 1887
Complete Left, 8th Dec., 1887
Complete Accepted, 13th Jan., 1888
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Boot Sewing Machinery.
We, FREDERIC ALFRED HINKS of 27 York Road, Montpellier, St. Pauls in the
County of Gloucester Cordwainer and WILLIAM HENRY DORMAN of Brook House,
Stafford, in the county of Stafford, Engineer do hereby declare the nature of this
invention to be as follows:
Our invention is intended to be applied to those Sewing Machines which are used
for stitching the sole of a boot to the welt or to that part of the boot which takes the
place of the welt and is particularly concerned with the Sewing Thread. It applies
especially to that description of Boot Sewing Machines well known as the New
Goodyear Stitcher. In order to produce good work, that is to say to lay a plump,
even, fair stitch in the welt & shew up the stitch well & evenly in the channel side of
the work, it is necessary to be able to regulate the length of the loop of thread, drawn
up by the needle above the surface of the welt in relation to the substance of the edge
of the sole, that is to say, to the thickness of the mass of material to be sewn
through.
This is at present done by inserting the butt of the needle a greater or less distance
into the needle stock, so as to allow the hook end to project à less or greater length
from the face of the stock.
If the hook be allowed to project a greater distance the loop drawn up is shortened
and if a shorter distance the loop is lengthened.
This alteration of the working length of the needle is found very inconvenient in
practice.
Our invention provides for varying the length of the loop without altering the
position of the needle in the stock.
We make the position of the Presser Foot (which as at present made is invariable)
adjustable in a vertical direction, so as to enable the operator to depress or elevate the
surface of the Welt, in relation to the needle, at will, and by that means lengthen or
shorten the loop of thread in the same manner as would be done by varying the
position of the needle in the stock as already described. We accomplish this by
attaching that part on the New Goodyear Stitcher known as the presser foot or
1

page_text: channel gauge to the presser slide with two screws, working in slots (or by some other
well known means allowing it freedom of movement up & down in the presser slide)
and we fit to a hole or hearing in the presser slide a pin, free to revolve, and furnished
with a milled head, and also with a clamping nut, or set screw, so that it may be set
fast in any desired position. This pin passes through an opening in the presser foot
and is provided with an eccentric, which lies between suitable projections formed on
the presser foot, so that by turning the pin, the presser foot will be raised or lowered
by means of the eccentric, and when in the desired position can be firmly clamped by
the set screw or other means provided.
We also make this adjustment to be effected automatically in the course of the
working of the machine, by connecting the movement of the presser foot to the lever
upon which that part called the Table is carried.
The presser foot & the Table clamp the work between them, like the jaws of a vice,
so that the distance between the two parts depends upon the thickness of the work.
In order to introduce the work to be operated on into the Machine the jaws are
opened that is to say-the Table or lower jaw is depressed. We connect then the
mechanism that effects the up & down movement of the presser foot upon the presser
slide by means of a connecting rod, or other suitable appliance, to a fit pivot on the
Table fever, so that when the Table and Table lever are depressed or elevated to receive
work of a thicker or thinner substance, the presser foot is automatically lowered or
raised in due proportion, and the loop of thread drawn up by the needle is automa-
tically adjusted in length.
In order to produce a good solid stitch it is very desirable to use Waxed" thread
and much difficulty is practically found, in keeping the wax clear and in good working
condition, in the wax pots of ordinary construction through the boiling over of the
heating water and the irregularity of the temperature, but this is especially the case
in fair stitching with white or coloured thread when irregularity of colour or of
substance of stitch is very detrimental to the appearance of the work. We make our
wax pot with a boiler in which steam is raised by means of a gas or other flame. The
steam passes over into a steam tight vessel or jacket formed with a cavity into which
a wax can is plunged. The jacket is heated by the steam and imparts heat to the wax
can a small hole is made at the bottom of the jacket to allow the condensed steam to
escape. To prevent the needless evaporation & consequent waste of water the feed
water for the boiler is contained in a can fitted with a loose cover & placed alongside
& communicates with the boiler by an aperiure near the bottom.
1007

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Boot Sewing Machinery.
We, FREDERIC ALFRED HINKS of 12 Lower Mounts, Northampton, late of 27 York
Road, Montpelier, in the parish of St. Pauls, Bristol and WILLIAM HENRY DORMAN,
of The Hawthorns, Newport Road, Stafford, late of Brook House, Brook Street,
Stafford in the County of Stafford, Engineer do hereby declare the nature of this
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described
and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
Our invention is intended to be applied to those Sewing Machines which are used
for stitching the sole of a boot to the welt, or to that part of the boot which takes the
place of the welt, and is particularly concerned with the sewing thread.
It applies especially to that description of Boot Sewing Machines well known as
the New Goodyear Stitcher.
In order to produce good work, that is to say, to lay a plump, even, fair stitch on
the welt, and shew up the stitch well & evenly in the channel side of the work, it is
necessary to be able to regulate the length of the loop of thread drawn up by the
needle above the surface of the welt, in relation to the substance of the edge of the
sole, that is to say, to the thickness of the mass of material to be sewn through.
This is a present done by inserting the butt of the needle, a greater or less distance
into the needle stock, so as to allow the hook end to project a less or greater length
from the face of the stock. If the hook be allowed to project a greater distance, the
loop drawn up, is shortened, and if a shorter distance the loop is lengthened.
This alteration of the working length of the needle is found very inconvenient in
practice.
Our invention provides for varying the length of the loop without altering the
position of the needle in the stock.
In the accompanying drawings, Figs. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5 shew one modification of our
Invention in which this adjustment is made by the operator. Figs. 6. 7. & 8, shew
another modification in which the adjustment is made automatically and Figs. 9. 10.
11. 12. 13 shew that part of our invention relating to waxing the thread. The same
letters refer to the same parts throughout.
Z is part of the Frame of a New Goodyear Stitcher as usually made. Y is the
Feed slide. X. the lift-lever, which raises the presser or channel gauge slide C, to
which it is connected by means of the slot & pin a. F is the table, E. the table
segment W. is the locking slide, V. the hand-lever. The dotted circle T shews the
path of the needle and the awl, S the point of the needle stock carrying the needle R.
These parts are all well known as going to constitute the New Goodyear Stitcher.
We make the position of the Presser Foot or channel gauge (which is at present
made fixed) adjustable in a vertical direction, so as to enable the surface of the well
to be depressed or elevated, in relation to the needle, at will, and by that means,
lengthen or shorten the loop of thread in the same manner as would be done by
varying the position of the needle in the stock, as already described.

page_text: First, in the modification in which the adjustment is made by the operator, and
shewn in Figs. 1. 2. & 3, we accomplish this by attaching that part on the New
Goodyear Stitcher known as the presser foot or channel gauge A, to the presser
slide by means of the pin, a, working in the slot, b, and by means of the pin D
carried in a hole or bearing in the presser or channel gauge slide C.
The pin D is
free to revolve, & is furnished with a clamping nut c, so that it may be sei fast in any
desired position. This pin passes through the slot d, in the presser foot A, and is
provided with an eccentric e which lies between suitable projections f. f. formed on
the presser foot A, so that by turning the pin D, the presser foot A will be raised
or lowered by means of the eccentric e, and when in the desired position, can be firmly
clamped by the clamping nut c.
Figs. & shew a stop screw p, which is carried by the end of the locking slide W
and takes against the locking slide cover W. By means of this stop screw p, the
movement of the table F is controlled, so as to allow it to come as close as possible
to the presser foot A but not to touch it.
Secondly in the modification in which the adjustment is made automatically, and
shown in Figs. 6. 7 & 8. we connect the movement of the presser foot or channel
gauge A to the segment E upon which that part called the Table F is carried.
The presser foot A, and the Table F clamp the work between them like the jaws
of a vice, so that the distance between them depends upon the thickness of the
work.
The table or lower jaw F is carried on the table segment E, which is mounted on
the pivot Q.
We connect then, the mechanism that effects the up down movement of the
presser foot upon the presser slide to a pivot on the Table Segment, so that when the
table & Table Segment are depressed or elevated by work of a thicker or thinner
substance being introduced, the presser foot or channel gauge is automatically lowered
or raised in due proportion, and the loop of the thread drawn up by the needle, is
automatically adjusted in length.
The mechanism we employ to connect the presser foot A with the table segment E.
is as follows.
We apply a pivot g to the table segment E. This pivot g carries a bar, h, having
teeth which engage with other teeth upon a pinion i. A how or loop piece supported
by a part of the pinion i, where no teeth are required, and attached to the bar, h,
prevents the teeth from coming out of gear with each other. The pinion is firmly
attached to a spindle by means of a set screw or otherwise. The spindle & being
carried in a long bearing, which is part of the presser or channel gauge slide C.
Upon the other end of the spindle k, is another pinion, m, preferably forming a part
of the spindle, & having teeth which engage with other teeth upon the edge of a
sliding piece, n, to which piece, the presser foot or channel gauge A is firmly attached
by the two screws o. o. The sliding piece n, is free to move up & down in the presser
slide C, whenever the pinions i, and m, are caused to partially revolve by the intro-
duction of thicker or thinner work between the presser foot or channel gauge A &
the table F.
"
::
In order to produce a good, solid stitch, it is very desirable to use waxed
thread, and much difficulty is practically found, in keeping the wax clear, and in good
working condition, in the wax pots of ordinary construction, through the boiling over
of the heating water, and the irregularity of the temperature, but this is especially
the case in fair stitching with white or coloured thread, when irregularity of colour
or of substance of stitch is very detrimental to the appearance of the work.
We make our wax pot, shewn in Figs. 9 & 10, with a boiler G, in which steam is
raised by means of a Gas or other flame, H.
The steam passes over into a steam-tight vessel or jacket I, into which a wax can
is plunged.
The jacket is heated by the steam and imparts heat to the wax can.
A small tube & cock K, are provided at the bottom of the jacket to allow the
condensed steam to escane.

page_text: To prevent the needless evaporation, and consequent waste of water, the feed water
for the boiler is contained in a can L fitted with a loose cover, and placed along-
side, and communicates with the boiler by a pipe M, near the bottom.
Another form of wax pot, shewn in Figs. 11. 12 & 13, has the boiler G surrounding
the wax can .J.
The steam space I being formed between the cavity or pit in the boiler and the
outside of the wax can, & the steam passing over through holes at the top of the
boiler, as shewn by arrows. The hooks & lugs N serve, by a partial revolution of
the wax can lid, to secure this lid in place, and the hooks and lugs O serve to retain
the wax can itself in the same manner.
The wax-can can be moved at will. The conical seat P preventing the steam escaping
when it is in place.
The cold water can L, the Feed-pipe M, the condensed water cock K, & the heating
apparatus H, may be similar to those shewn in Figs. 9 & 10.
Having now described our invention and in what manner it is to be carried out,
we wish to state that what we claim as our invention is :--
1st. Attaching the channel gauge or Presser foot in a New Goodyear Stitcher or
other Stitching Machine of similar construction, to the slide that carries it, in such
a manner that its position is readily variable in a vertical direction, so that by adjusting
the position of the channel gauge or presser foot the length of the loop of thread
drawn up by the needle above the surface of the work, can be varied.
2nd. In a New Goodyear Stitcher, or other stitching machine of similar construction,
in which the channel gauge is attached to the slide that carries it, in such a manner
that its position is variable in a vertical direction, connecting the channel-gauge or
presser foot with the table movement in such a manner that the position of the channel
gauge or presser foot in a vertical direction, is regulated by that of the table, so that
the length of the loop of thread drawn up by the needle above the surface of the
work, is varied automatically in proportion to the thickness of the work.
3rd. The method of construction of Waxer, shewn in Figs. 9 & 10.
4th. The method of construction of Waxer shewn in Figs. 11, 12 & 13.
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