Improvements in the Manufacture of Gloves.
Year: 1888

page_text: Date of Application, 25th Oct., 1888
Complete Specification Left. 19th July, 1889-Accepted, 24th Aug., 1889
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Gloves.
A communication from abroad by LA SOCIÉTÉ NEYRON, CAHEN & CIE., of 11, Rue
Pizay, Lyons (Rhone), in the Republic of France, Glove Manufacturers.
I, WILLIAM PHILLIPS THOMPSON, F.C.S., M.I.M.E., of the Agency for Foreign
Patent Solicitors, 6, Lord Street, Liverpool, and 6, Bank Street, Manchester, both
in the County of Lancaster, and 323 High Holborn, in the County of Middlesex,
Civil Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows :—
The object of the invention is to entirely abandon the use of fourchettes (aiguillettes)
or pieces between the fingers, which will reduce by one half, the number of seams
which enclose the fingers, and allow the glove to be cut in one single piece, except as
regards the thumb which is cut separately as usual.
Hitherto, this suppression has only been obtained at the expense of spoiling the
form and elegance of the glove; but by this invention, the cutting out and making is
not only simplified, but the gloves are improved from every point of view.
This invention consists essentially in cutting the material for the back of the fingers
rather wider than usual, so that each finger piece can be turned down at each side to
meet the corresponding finger pieces forming the front or palm of the glove, without
the upper part of the glove, when finished, being necessarily widened and thus forming
uncomfortable and ungraceful creases.
This result may be obtained in two ways:
First The strips or blanks are so cut that the part on one side of an imaginary line
dividing the back from the palm is perceptibly widened at the base of the fingers, or
throughout the length thereof, which are, therefore, rather wider than the corre-
sponding finger pieces on the other side of said line, but this width is taken in on the
hand by three incisions, or pieces cut out in the shape of small tongues, said
incisions being made along lines continued from the slits forming the divisions
between the fingers. The scam which closes these three incisions is covered by the
embroidery generally provided at this part.
The incisions run to a point towards the top so as to follow perfectly the shape of
the fork between the fingers in a single seam which meets one of the single seams
running along each of the fingers.
On account of the extra width of the upper parts of the fingers, the latter seams are
led toward the inner part of the hand so that the glove shows no apparent seam
thus avoiding the necessity of further smoothing of the leather.
A modification of this way of carrying out the invention consists essentially in
cutting each incision out of the finger on the side nearest the thumb. The edge of
the blank which closes the glove on the side of the little finger is consequently made
slightly bulging.
The effect of this modification is to draw the seams which run along the fingers
on the side nearest to the thumb further toward the interior of the hand and to lead
the embroidery, which covers the incision seams the direction of the divisions
between the fingers. The shape of the glove is thus irreproachable.
one.
In further modifications the number of incisions is reduced to two or even to
In the latter case, the single incision is, of course, made larger than that in
the preceding examples, since it must alone take in the excess of material in the
upper part of the hand, it is placed between the second and third fingers it might
quite as well be placed between the first and second.
The divisions between the fingers from which incisions are not cut, are nevertheless
slightly drawn in by small seams which are made a suitable length. When two

page_text: incisions are cut out the width of which, though less than that in the preceding
example, must be sufficient to take in the excess of material and as before, there is
preferably a small seam on the finger slit where there is no incision.
These examples of different arrangements will be sufficient to show that, since the
object to be attained is the, reduction of the excess in the width of the upper part of
the glove, this object may be attained by one or more incisions, the shape, width,
and direction of which are determined by the nature of the material employed, such
as coiton, linen, leather, etcetera, and by the style and ornamentation of the glove to
be produced.
At the same time it must be understood that the invention is by no means restricted
to these arrangements, and that the number, form, and direction of the incisions may
be varied according to circumstances, that the said incisions may be cut out or
removed from the material as above described, or slits may be simply made without
removing the material and then sewn up or seamed.
The second way of carrying out the invention is more especially suitable for tissues
and elastic materials, etcetera. The fingers are widened by means of a mould or die
of suitable shape. In this mould the fingers, which are of suitable thickness, and
are made convex, and are bevelled off at the base. The material is placed on this
mould, and made to lie without being stretched, the blank is then cut out by placing
the punch or cutting apparatus over the mould. It is thus clear that the parts placed
on the convex surfaces of the mould, namely, the fingers, will be cut proportionally
wider than those cut off on the flat surface, and that the result required will have been
obtained.
This second mode of manufacture which is less speedy than the former may be
applied in special cases and is reserved as an alternative, but most importance is laid
on the mode first described, which can be generally applied to all material used in the
production of gloves.
Dated this 24th day of October 1888.
WM. P. THOMPSON & Co.,
Agents for the Applicant.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Gloves.
A communication from abroad by LA SOCIÉTÉ NEYRON, CAHEN & CIE., of 11, Rue
Pizay, Lyons (Rhone), in the Republic of France, Glove Manufacturers.
I, WILLLAM PHILLIPS THOMPSON F.C.S., M.I.M.E., of the Agency for Foreign
Patent Solicitors, 6, Lord Street, Liverpool, and 6, Bank Street, Manchester, both in
the County of Lancaster, and 323, High Holborn in the County of Middlesex, Civil
Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement :-
This invention relates to improvements in gloves and in the manufacture of the
same, whereby the use of fourchettes (aiguillettes) or pieces between the fingers may
be dispensed with, a construction which will reduce by about one half, the number of
seams which enclose the fingers, and will allow the glove to be cut or formed in one
single piece, except as regards the thumb, which is mado separately as usual.
Hitherto, this suppression of the fourchettes has only been obtained at the expense
of spoiling the form and elegance of the glove; but by this invention, the cutting
out and making are not only simplified, but the gloves are improved from every point
of view.
This invention consists essentially in cutting the material for the back of the fingers
rather wider than usual, so that each finger piece can be turned down at each side
to meet the corresponding finger pieces forming the front or palm of the glove,
without the upper part of the glove, when finished, being necessarily widened, and
thus forming uncomfortable and unsightly creases.

page_text: In the drawings:-
Figures 1 to 5 show glove blanks cut or made according to one method of carrying
out the invention.
Referring first to Figure 1:-
The strips or blanks are so cut that the part on one side of an imaginary line A B
dividing the back from the palm, is perceptibly widened at the base of the fingers,
or throughout the length thereof, which are, therefore, rather wider than the corre-
sponding finger pieces on the other side of said line, but this width is taken in on the
hand by closing up the three incisions a b c formed by cutting out pieces in the shape
of small tongues, said incisions being made along lines continued from the slits
forming the divisions between the finger pieces. The seam (or seams) which is formed
when these three incisions a b c are closed may be covered by the embroidery generally
provided at this part.
The sides of each incision meet at an acute angle towards the top so as, when
closed, to follow perfectly the shape of the fork between the fingers in a single seam,
which meets one of the single seams running along each of the fingers.
On account of the extra width of the upper parts of the fingers, the latter seams
are led toward the inner part of the hand so that there are no finger seams apparent
at the back of the hand. This avoids the necessity of further smoothing of the
leather.
Referring now to Figure 2:-
A modification of this way of carrying out the invention consists essentially in
cutting each incision a, b, c out of a finger piece on the side nearest the thumb.
The edge de of the blank which closes the glove on the side of the little finger is
consequently made slightly bulging.
The effect of this modification is to draw the seams which run along the fingers on
the side nearest to the thumb further toward the interior of the hand, and to lead the
embroidery, which covers the incision seams, in the direction of the divisions between
the fingers. The shape of the glove is thus much improved.
In further modifications, shown in Figures 3 and 4, the number of incisions is
reduced to two or even to one. In the latter case, see Figure 3, the single incision a²
is, of course, made larger than the incisions in the preceding examples, since it alone
must serve to take in the excess of material in the upper part of the hand. It is
shown placed between the second and third fingers, but it might quite as well be
placed between the first and second.
The divisions between the fingers from which incisions are not cut, are preferably
slightly drawn in by small seams f g h i, which are made a suitable length.
Referring to Figure 4:-
When two incisions m n are cut out, the width of the same, though less than that
in the preceding example, must be sufficient to take in the excess of material, and
as before, there is preferably a small seam p q between the fingers where there is no
incision.
These examples of different arrangements will be sufficient to show that, since the
object to be attained is the reduction of the excess in the width of the upper part of
the glove, this object may be attained by one or more incisions, the shape, width, and
direction of which are determined by the nature of the material employed, such as
cotton, linen, leather, etcetera, and by the style and ornamentation of the glove to be
produced.
At the same time it must be understood that the invention is by no means restricted
to these arrangements, and that the number, form, and direction of the incisions may
be varied according to circumstances, that the said incisions may be cut out or
removed from the material as above described, or slits may be simply made without
removing the material, and then sewn up or seamed.
Another modification of the invention is more especially suitable for tissues and
elastic materials, etcetera. The fingers are widened by means of a mould or die of
suitable shape, see Figure 6. In this mould the mandrils for the fingers, which are of
suitable thickness are made convex, and are bevelled off at the base. The material is

page_text: placed on this mould, and made to lie without being stretched, the blank is then cut
out by placing the punch or cutting apparatus over the mould. It is thus clear that
the parts placed on the convex surfaces of the mould, namely, the fingers, will be
stretched and cut proportionally wider than those cut off on the flat surface, and that
the result required will be obtained.
This modified method of manufacturing the gloves, which is less speedy than the
former may be applied in special cases, and is only considered as an alternative the
mode first described being the more important one, as it can be generally applied to
all kinds of material used in the production of gloves.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, as communicated to me
by my foreign correspondents, I declare that what I claim is :-
The improvement, substantially as described and shown, in the manufacture of
gloves, which consists in doing away with fourchettes (aiguillettes), that is the pieces
between the fingers, and in place thereof making the back finger pieces wider than
the front ones without increasing the size of the back of the body of the glove, such
result being obtained,
(a) By narrowing or shaping the back of the body of the glove by means of
incisions which may be concealed under the embroidery and be of any number,
shape or direction.
(b). By cutting the finger portions larger than the body portions by means of a
convex mould.
WM. P. THOMPSON & Co.,
Agents for the Applicant.