IMPROVEMENTS IN SKIRTS AND PANIERS
Year: 1885

page_text: We, CHARLES CLARENCE CARPENTER, of the City and County of New York,
in the State of New York, Manufacturer, and GEORGE WALLACE LOCKWOOD,
of Brooklyn, Kings County in the State of New York, U.S.A., Manufacturer,
do hereby declare the nature of our invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SKIRTS
AND PANIERS," and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This invention relates to paniers and panier skirts, and the novelty consists in
the construction, arrangement and adaptation of parts, as will be more fully herein-
after set forth, and specifically pointed out in the claims.
We will describe the material features of the invention as applied to hoop skirts
having panier forms, and will so illustrate them; but it will be understood that
the advantages of the invention will accrue to other relations and combinations.
It is desirable in this class of devices:-
;
First, to so arrange the springs that their greatest force will be exerted against
downward pressure, to resist the gravity of the supported skirts;
Secondly, to provide that the springs may fold upward and lie close together (as
in case of the wearer sitting) without subjecting the springs to any considerable
torsion or strain; and,
Thirdly, to provide some force, other than the gravity of the skirt or panier
or both, to make the device re-assume a normal position after having being folded
as in sitting.
We accomplish these ends by mounting the panier springs in separate layers or
frames. These frames are then secured together, so that the springs will cross each
other at a central vertical back-line and so as to bring the springs of each frame in
a vertically inclined position upon one side of said central line, and in a horizontal
position upon the other.
The vertically inclined portions of the springs serve to apply the greatest force
of the springs to resist the downward pressure of the gravity of the skirts, while
the horizontal portions not only allow the panier to fold upwards, but, by reason
of the points of attachment of each spring, the horizontal portions serves with a
constant force to draw the panier down at the central line, and incline it continually
to a normal extended position.
The invention is illustrated in the accompanying drawings which form a part of
the specification, and in which:-
Figure 1 is a back view of the skirt, showing the position of the two layers of
springs when secured together to form the panier.
Fio 2 is a side view

page_text: Fig. 3 is a rear elevation showing the arrangement of the springs with relation
to each other, one layer being loose at the right side.
Figure 4 is an enlarged detail. In this figure it will be observed that the springs
which are inclined upon one side of the panier are horizontal upon the opposite side,
the dotted lines showing the amount of deflection which is made in order to give
the torsion mentioned.
Referring to the drawings, A designates the body of a hoop-skirt, a the
vertical tapes, and a¹ the waist band of the same. These parts are of ordinary
construction.
For convenience of description I will designate the two side tapes by the letters x
and x, and the two back tapes by the single letter a².
A series of springs B being secured to the side tape x are carried upward and
first secured to the nearest back tape x², then. carried in an approximately hori-
zontal direction over and secured to the other back tape, and their several free ends
secured by an independent tape b. A similar series of springs B¹ are secured to the
side tape x, carried up and over in a similar manner but in reverse directions, and
the free ends secured by a separate tape b¹. The amount of upward incline may
be varied.
In forming the panier, the tape b will be pressed down until the free ends of the
springs B, beyond the last back tape, assume an approximately horizontal position,
when it may be secured by any suitable means to the side tape x1; and the tape b¹,
being similarly forced down and secured to the tape x in a similar manner, throws
the springs into the desirable form shown.
The springs B are arranged at considerable incline upon one side of the tapes ³
and nearly or quite horizontal upon the other, while the springs B' are inclined
upon the side upon which the springs B are horizontal, and horizontal where the
said springs are inclined.
Each series of wires being secured to the back tapes 2, it follows that the
inclined portions of the springs upon both sides serve to present their position of
greatest resistance against downward pressure, thus supporting, yieldingly but
firmly, the skirts &c. of the wearer.
When the wearer sits, these inclined portions will fold against each other, or
upward in the direction shown; the horizontal portions of each series freely
allowing this action. When the wearer assumes an upright position, the torsion of
the springs, due to the bend given each spring to deflect it from the inclined to the
horizontal position, serves with a constant force to throw the several springs into
their normal position described.
Leaves C, attached to each side tape and having eyelets c, allow the wearer to
vary the form and swell of the panier by properly manipulating the lacing cord D.
We attach special importance to the positions of the springs whereby resistance
is given to downward pressing, and ease of upward folding is attained; and
particularly to the horizontal bend of the springs whereby is obtained that constant
force to hold the springs down to the limits of the back tapes ³, and by which the
panier quickly re-assumes it perfect form and position.
Modifications in details of construction may be made within wide limits without
sacrificing the advantages or departing from the principle of the invention, the
essential features of which have been shown and described.
Parts of the invention may be used without the whole. The tapes 6 and b¹, as
features of the construction, may be omitted, and the springs be secured directly to
their appropriate tapes x x¹.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what
we claim is
1st A panier or form for hoop skirts, comprising two series of springs, each series
arranged at an incline upon one side of the panier, and upon a horizontal plane
unan the annesite sid
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page_text: 2nd In a panier or form for hoop skirts, the two series of wires B B¹, having
inclined portions to resist downward pressure and horizontal portions to allow
folding, the said wires being arranged in reverse series and secured to tapes xx¹, as
and for the purposes set forth.
3rd The panier formed of springs arranged at an incline upon one side of the
panier to resist the pressure of drapery and held torsionally upon the opposite side
to provide horizontal portions which exert a constant force to hold the springs down
to the limits of their holding tapes, as set forth.
4th The panier described formed of springs B B¹, each series so arranged as
to provide inclined portions on the one side and horizontal portions on the other
side, and the ends of said springs held by tapes b b¹ and x x¹, substantially as
described.
5th The panier skirt described consisting of the body A, the tapes x x²x², the
springs B B, tapes bb1, the leaves C having eyelets.c and lacing cord D, the springs
being secured as described, and the whole combined to serve as set forth.
Dated this 24th day of July 1885.
CHARLES CLARENCE CARPENTER.
GEORGE WALLACE LOCKWOOD.
Witnesses:
CHARLES ROBINSON SEARLE,
G. G. M. Hardingham,
Agent for the Applicants,
191, Fleet Street, London, E.C.
Draughtsman, 23, Murray St., New York.
MANIERRE ELLISON,
Clerk, 23, Murray St., New York.