Improvements in the Manufacture of Double Woven Cut Pile Fabrics; and in the Methods of and Means for Producing the same.
Year: 1891

page_text: Date of Application, 15th Oct., 1891
Complete Specification Left, 15th July, 1892-Accepted, 3rd Sept., 1892
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Double Woven Cut Pile Fabrics;
and in the Methods of and Means for Producing the same.
We GUSTAVUS ADOLPHUS JOHN SCHOTT, of The Richter Manufacturing
Company, of The West End Mills, Bradford, in the County of York, Manu-
facturer, JAMES DUFF of Barum House, Harrison Road, Halifax, in the County
of York, aforesaid, Chartered Accountant, and JAMES VAUGHAN of 42 Turner
Place Bradford aforesaid Engineer (all of The Velvet Syndicate of Bradford
aforesaid) do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
Our said invention relates to the manufacture of cut pile fabrics and relates to
improvements in the mode of weaving and cutting the same. In carrying out our
invention we weave two weft pile fabrics face to face a warp being provided for
each piece. The ground weft is woven into the two warps alternately thus
producing two separate and practically disconnected pieces so long as no pile weft
IS woven in. One or more shuttles may be used for weaving in the ground weft.
The pile wefts are woven in so as to form floats on the inner sides of the two ground
pieces or it might be on both sides if it were desired to have cut pile on both sides
of a piece. Both ends of a weft float may be tied in the same piece or one end
may be tied in one piece and the other end in the other piece in which case the
float forms a connection between the top and bottom pieces. Practically therefore
there are three varieties of floats viz. top picce floats in which both ends are tied in
the top piece; bottom piece floats in which both ends are tied in the bottom piece
and cross floats in which one end is tied in the top piece and the other end in the
bottom piece so as to form a connection between the two pieces. The fabrics may
be woven with top and bottom piece floats only, or with cross floats only or with
combinations of the three, according to the patterns or effects it is desired to obtain.
By manipulating and combining the various floats and using pile and ground wefts
of various materials or colours a large variety of novel effects can be produced.
The cutting of the floats or such of them as require to be cut can be effected
during the process of weaving by means of the apparatus and by virtue of the
methods for which one of us, the said G. A. J. Schott has obtained Her Majesty's
Letters Patent Nos. 655 and 13082 both of the year 1889. In the Specifications
annexed to the said Patents the improved cutting means and methods are shown
and described as operating upon a single fabric but the presence of a double fabric
in the loom in no way interferes with the essential operation of the invention the
changes and modifications in the cutting means being such as any practical weaver
accustomed to this class of goods might readily devise. In those cases where the
two pieces are woven face to face and are connected by cross floats or.where cross
floats alone are to be cut the double fabric may be removed from the loom and the
requisite severance may be effected in a separate cutting or splitting machine in
which a number of circular knives or cutters made preferably of thin sheet steel so
as to save sharpening and caused to revolve, are inserted between the two pieces
which are then caused to advance against the knives while the latter are revolving
and traversing to and fro to a sufficient extent, so that the course of each knife
overlaps the course of the knife next before it. By this means the cross floats
connecting the two pieces as well as any connections that may exist at the edges are
severed and the two pieces separated. By preference we mount each knife loosely
so as to give the knife lateral freedom of motion the result being that the slight
resistance offered by the cross floats has a self-adjusting tendency to keep the knife
exactly in the centre of the length of the float and therefore midway between the

page_text: two pieces. The overlapping of the knife courses tends to prevent knife marks in
the cut pile. The said cutting or splitting machine inay be arranged to be mounted
on the loom so as to operate during the weaving of the two pieces. It will be
obvious that the last mentioned apparatus for cutting or splitting the cross floats of
double weft pile fabrics as described could also be adapted to the severing and
separating of double woven warp pile fabrics woven face to face in the well
known manner. The invention is applicable both to jacquard and ordinary shaft
weaving.
Dated this 14th day of October 1891
DUTTON & FULTON,
1, St. James' Square, Manchester, Agents.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Double Woven Cut Pile Fabrics,
and in the Methods of and Means for Producing the same.
We GUSTAVUS ADOLPHUS JOHN SCHOTT of The Richter Manufacturing
Company, of The West End Mills, Bradford, in the County of York, Manu-
facturer, JAMES DUFF of Barum House, Harrison Road, Halifax, in the County
of York aforesaid Chartered Accountant, and JAMES VAUGHAN of 42 Turner
Place. Bradford, aforesaid, Engineer, (all of The Velvet Syndicate of Bradford
aforesaid) do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the
same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement and accompanying drawings :-
--
Our said invention relates to the manufacture of cut pile fabrics and relates to
improvements in the mode of weaving and cutting the same. In carrying out our
invention we weave two weft pile fabrics face to face, a warp being provided for
each piece. The ground weft is woven into the two warps alternately thus
producing two separate and practically disconnected pieces so long as no pile weft
18 woven in. One or more shuttles may be used for weaving in the ground weft.
The pile wefts are woven in so as to form floats on the inner sides of the two ground
pieces or it might be on both sides if it were desired to have cut pile on both sides
of a piece. Both ends of a weft float may be tied in the same piece or one end
may be tied in one piece and the other end in the other piece in which case the
float forms a connection between the top and bottom pieces. Practically therefore
there are three varieties of floats riz. top piece floats in which both ends are tied in
the top piece, bottom piece floats in which both ends are tied in the bottom piece,
and cross floats in which one end is tied in the top piece and the other end in the
bottom piece so as to form a connection between the two pieces. The fabrics may
be woven with top and bottom piece floats only, or with cross floats only or with
combinations of the three according to the patterns or effects it is desired to obtain.
By manipulating and combining the various floats and using pile and ground wefts
of various materials or colours a large variety of novel effects can be produced. The
cutting of the floats or such of them as require to be cut can be effected during the
process of weaving by means of the apparatus and by virtue of the methods for
which one of us, the said G. A. J. Schott, has obtained Her Majesty's Letters
Patent Nos. 655 and 13082 both of the year 1889. In the Specifications annexed
to the said Patents the improved cutting means and methods are shown and
described as operating upon a single fabric but the presence of a double fabric in
the loom in no way interferes with the essential operation of the invention the
changes and modifications in the cutting means being such as any practical weaver
accustomed to this class of goods might readily devise. In those cases where the
two pieces are woven face to face and are connected by cross floats or where cross
floats alone are to be cut, the double fabric may be removed from the loom and the
requisite severance may be effected in a separate cutting or splitting machine in
which a number of circular knives or cutters made preferably of thin sheet steel so

page_text: as to save sharpening and caused to revolve, are inserted between the two pieces
which are then caused to advance against the knives while the latter are revolving
and traversing to and fro to a sufficient extent so that the course of each knife
overlaps the course of the knife next before it. By this means the cross floats
connecting the two pieces as well as any connections that may exist, at the edges
are severed and the two pieces separated. By preference we mount each knife
loosely so as to give the knife lateral freedom of motion, the result being that the
slight resistance offered by the cross floats has a self adjusting tendency to keep
the knife exactly in the centre of the length of the float and therefore midway
between the two pieces. The overlapping of the knife courses tends to prevent
knife marks in the cut pile. The said cutting or splitting machine may be
arranged to be mounted on the loom so as to operate during the weaving of the
two pieces. It will be obvious that the last mentioned apparatus for cutting or
splitting the cross floats of double weft pile fabrics as described could also be
adapted to the severing and separating of double woven warp pile fabrics woven
face to face in the well known manner, or to other similar uses. The invention is
applicable both to jacquard and ordinary shaft weaving.
And in order that our said invention may be properly understood we will now
proceed to describe the same more particularly reference being had to the annexed
two sheets of drawings.
Referring to Sheet 1 :-
Fig. 1 is a diagramatic view of a draft for two pieces woven together with single
pile produced by cross floats only. The pile is all thrown to the face of each piece.
The warp ends are marked a and into these the ground weft is woven, the cross pile.
floats are marked b. The position of the knives for cutting the pile is indicated by
the lines marked c.
Fig. 2 is a diagram of two pieces woven face to face and showing both top piece
floats b, cross floats 6' and bottom piece floats 6. The pile which is cut by the
knives e stands on the face of each piece.
Fig. 3 illustrates a double fabric with a double pile.
the pieces. The floats marked a form cut pile on the
floats marked e on the face of each piece. The dotted
pieces show the pile d when cut by the knives c.
Cross floats only between
back of each piece. The
lines at the backs of the
Fig. 4 shows a double fabric the pile standing in longitudinal or diagonal stripes
on both sides of each piece, or it might be forming figures. is a top piece float
the respective sections of which form cut pile on the back and face of the top
piece.
9 indicates a cross float the two sections of which form cut pile on the back of the
top piece and the face of the bottom piece.
hh are bottom piece floats, one section of each of which forms cut pile on the
back and face respectively of the bottom piece.
Figs. 5 and 6 show the top and bottom pieces woven as set forth in Fig. 4 and
illustrating an effect obtainable thereby. Fig. 5 is the separated and cut top piece.
Fig. 6 is the separated and cut bottom piece. In each fig. the cut pile stripes are
indicated by and the spaces which consist of warp and ground weft only are
marked j. These may be ornamented by shaft or jacquard figures in the ordinary
way.
The foregoing are given as a few examples of the many modifications and
varieties which may be attained by the various floats and different combinations
and colours of warp, ground weft and pile weft.
The indicated system of weaving two pieces face to face is also a source of
considerable economy in cases where pile weft of a certain colour material and
quality has only to appear at intervals in the design. In such a case if only a
single piece is being woven such weft would require to be woven into the ground or
thrown to the back of the piece, being practically wasted when not required to
appear in the design. But where two pieces are woven together as described

page_text: whenever a certain weft is not required in one piece it may be thrown by a cross
float into the other piece and utilised there instead of having to be hidden out of
sight or floated at the back and cut away as is the case when there is only one
piece.
On Sheet 2-
Figs. 7, 8 and 9 illustrate the arrangements of our splitting machine, by means of
which the cross floats of two pieces woven face to face may be severed after the
weaving.
The two pieces X woven together are wound upon the delivery beam k, Fig. 7
from which they are unwound by the equal revolution, in the direction of the
arrows, of the rollers which are covered with card clothing or furnished with
pins or spikes and which take up the fabrics when they have been split apart as
hereafter described. From the delivery beam k the combined pieces X pass round
a guide. bar m and enter the slit between the bars n n which can be placed nearer
together or further apart in accordance with the thickness of the two combined
pieces X. This slit we find it best to adjust in such a manner that the pieces can
pass through with ease and without being crushed or pressed, but also without room
to swerve from side to side. Into the top end of the slit enter the cutting edges of
the revolving circular knives o which may be of any convenient size and number
and which by preference we form of thin sheet steel so as to reduce the necessity of
sharpening to a minimum or obviate it altogether in the case of easily severable
materials. Fig. 8 is a side view of one of the circular knives. These knives have
a central hole and key-way by means of which they are mounted on a sleeve p
having a driving whirl or pulley p' and a diminished prolongation provided with a
screw thread at its end for screwing on a nut as shown. The knife o is not nipped
tightly between the faces of the whirl pl and the nut but a space is left when the
nut is screwed home allowing the knife o lateral motion sufficient to adjust itself to
the pressure exercised upon it by the advancing piece (as will be presently
described) the normal tendency being to keep the knife exactly in the centre of the
length of the floats to be cut and therefore midway between the two pieces X.
The portion of the sleeve p upon which the knife o is mounted is provided with a
key fitting loosely into the key-way of the knife. The sleeve p is revolved upon
the stud by means of a band, placed over the whirl p¹ or otherwise suitable wheel
gearing might be employed to turn the sleeve p and knife. There must of course
be as many sleeves and studs as there are knives employed. The studs are fixed
to a barra portion of which is shown at Fig. 9 and which extends across the whole
width of the piece to be cut. That portion of the stud q upon which the sleeve p
revolves is somewhat longer than the sleeve so as to allow of the latter having a
traverse motion to some extent, which enables the sleeve p to adjust its position
upon the stud 9 in a lateral direction in a similar manner to that in which the
knife o can adjust its position laterally as before described under pressure from the
advancing piece. The whole arrangement results in a power of giving and taking
and freedom of motion which by experience we have found very useful.
Simultaneously with the sleeves p and knives o revolving, a reciprocating or to
and fro motion is imparted to the knife-barr to a sufficient degree so that the
courses of the several knives across the piece overlap each other which tends to
prevent knife-marks in the cut pile. For this purpose the knife bar " is connected
by means of a pin and the connecting rod t with a heart or any other suitable
traverse motion of an ordinary construction which is therefore not shown.
When the apparatus as shown in Fig. 7 is set in motion the card or pin rollers l
over each of which one of the two severed pieces passes, draw the two pieces con-
nected by cross floats from the delivery beam k round the guide bar m and up the
slit between the bars nn. At the upper end of the slit the cross-floats come in
contact with the revolving and traversing knives o and are severed apart while
each piece passes over one of the card or pin rollers to its respective taking up
beam uu from which the fabrics can be removed for further treatment.

page_text: Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what we
claim is :-
1. Weaving two weft pile fabrics face to face and cutting the top and bottom and
cross weft pile floats during the process of weaving so as to produce single or double
weft pile fabrics plain or figured in the manner and by the means substantially as
hereinbefore described and shown.
2. The apparatus for cutting the cross weft pile floats so as to separate two pile
fabrics which have been woven face to face substantially as described and as
illustrated on Sheet 2 of the drawings.
3. In apparatus for splitting apart two pile fabrics which have been woven face
to face the circular steel knives mounted loosely so as to have lateral play and thus
adjust themselves so as to cut the float exactly in the centre of its length sub-
stantially as described and shown.
4. In apparatus for splitting apart two pile fabrics which have been woven face
to face, a series of circular revolving knives mounted at suitable distances apart and
capable of being traversed to and fro sufficiently to cause the courses of the several
knives across the piece to overlap each other substantially as hereinbefore described
and shown.
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E. K. DUTTON & Co.,
5, John Dalton Street, Manchester, Agents.