A NEW OR IMPROVED MACHINE FOR PURLING MANUFACTURED TULLES, VALENCIENNES, LACES, EMBROIDERY, AND OTHER SUCH LIKE ARTICLES."
Year: 1879

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Octave Léon Deschamps, of St. Pierre les Calais,
"
Département du Pas de Calais, in the Republic of France, for the Invention of
A NEW OR IMPROVED MACHINE FOR PURLING MANUFACTURED TULLES,
VALENCIENNES, LACES, EMBROIDERY, AND OTHER SUCH LIKE ARTICLES."
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Octave Léon Deschamps
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 23rd October 1879.
OCTAVE LEON DESCHAMPS, of St Pierre-les-Calais, Département du Pas de Calais,
in the Republic of France. "A NEW OR IMPROVED MACHINE FOR PURLING
MANUFACTURED TULLES, VALENCIENNES, LACES, EMBROIDERY, AND OTHER SUCH
LIKE ARTICLES."
•
The machine forming the subject of the present Invention is intended to produce
an imitation of true purling upon manufactured lace, valenciennes, embroidery,
and tulles, and to obviate the application to the said articles of "purling" made by
the ordinary machinery.
""
By the said Invention an imitation of real " purled lace is obtained much
more perfectly than by purling added in the ordinary manner, and a very con-
siderable economy of material is effected.
The mechanism by which the purling is produced is attached to the head of
any ordinary sewing machine, and receives from the said sewing machine the
movements necessary for its operation.
•
Upon the cover plate at the head of a sewing machine is fixed, by screws or
otherwise, a plate which carries the "purling" apparatus. This plate guides a slide
which is moved upwards at each upward movement of the needle bar by the latter
coming against a regulating screw in the said slide. This latter is drawn down-
wards by a spring, and is furnished at its lower extremity with a click which
transforms the vertical up and down motions of the slide into partial rotary motions
of a ratchet wheel.
This ratchet wheel turns upon an axis in the aforesaid carrying plate, and is
retained by a spring click, which prevents it from turning backwards while the
click on the slide is making its backward stroke.
To the said ratchet wheel is fixed a star wheel having any suitable number of

page_text: teeth so formed as to push out progressively a horizontal slide, and to allow the
same to return suddenly to the bottom of the teeth by the action of a spring.
The horizontal slide moves in guides fixed to the above named carrier plate; it
carries the support for the purling needle which may be round, oval, flat, or in
short of the form and dimensions of the "purl" it is desired to make.
A lever, the axis of which is carried in bearings under the head of the machine,
is caused to oscillate by a pin on the needle-bar acting in its upward movement
upon the upper end of the said lever. The oscillation inwards of the lower
extremity of the lever throws the thread beyond the path (la tombée) of the needle
in order to remove the thread from the presser foot and to cause it to be taken
by the "purling" needle, or to stretch it at each point of separation of two
consecutive "purls."
The vertical slide is raised more or less by the needle bar according as the
regulating screw is adjusted; similarly the fall of the slide is limited and regulated
by another adjusting screw carried in a projection of the carrier plate, and upon
which a stop on the slide comes to rest.
"
The operation of the machine is as follows:-The thread intended to form the
purling" is supplied in the ordinary manner to the needle, the movements of
which are combined with those of the shuttle as usual, and the arrangements for
making the stitches of sewing are the same as if the new mechanism did not exist,
but with this single difference that at each stitch the thread is thrown off (chassé)
by the aforesaid lever.
Every upward movement of the needle bar raises to the desired extent the
vertical slide, and the latter by its click turns the ratchet wheel by one or more
teeth.
The object of this rotation of the ratchet wheel is to move out, by means of the
star wheel, the slide carrying the "purling" needle to the extremity of the teeth
of the star wheel; at that moment the spring returns the said slide, which brings
back the "purling" needle over the edge of the sewing made by the ordinary
needle. The "purling" needle in this movement recovers the thread which
surrounds it exactly to assist in the formation of the next stitch.
According as the vertical slide makes one, two, three, four, or other number of
upward movements per division of the star wheel the "purls" will be spaced one,
two, three, four, or other number of stitches apart.
By adjusting the regulating screw of the vertical slide, and by changing the
ratchet and star wheels, the "purls" may be formed more or less widely apart, and
may have more or less stitches of sewing inserted between them.
When the needle bar descends it leaves the vertical slide immediately the latter
encounters the screw stop. In order to avoid this separation of the two parts any
suitable arrangement of connecting rods and eccentrics producing the aforesaid
results may be employed.
If the thread be retarded (en retard) a turned back (retourné). "purl" may be
obtained; if the needle takes several threads, whether of the same shade or not,
the "purl" will be formed of several threads similarly shaded or not, and if the
threads vary entirely new effects may be produced.
.
This machinery may be easily utilized for the manufacture of purl chenille.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said Octave Léon Deschamps in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 23rd
April 1880.
OCTAVE LÉON DESCHAMPS, of St. Pierre-les-Calais, Departement du Pas de Calais,
in the Republic of France. "A NEW OR IMPROVED MACHINE FOR PURLING
MANUFACTURED TULLES, VALENCIENNES, EMBROIDERY, AND OTHER SUCH LIKE
ARTICLES."
The machine forming the subject of the present Invention is intended to produce
an imitation of true purling upon manufactured lace, valenciennes, embroidery,
and tulles, and consequently to obviate the application to the said articles of
'purling" made by machinery.
*་
By the said Invention an imitation of real "purled" lace is obtained much more
perfectly than by "purling" added in the ordinary manner, and a very considerable
economy of material is effected.
The mechanism by which the "purling" is produced is attached to the head of
any ordinary sewing machine, and receives from the said sewing machine the
movements necessary for its operation. It will be understood from the following
description that the Invention may be applied, with suitable modifications, to any
sewing machine.
The Drawing hereto annexed represents the Invention applied to an American
sewing machine. Figure 1 is a front elevation; Figure 2, an end view; and Figure
3, an internal view of the new mechanism.
Upon the cover plate a at the head of a sewing machine is fixed, by screws or
otherwise, a plate 6 which carries the purling apparatus. This plate guides a slide
c, which is moved upwards at each upward movement of the needle bar d by the
latter coming against a regulating screw e in the said slide c. This latter is drawn
downwards by a spring f, and is furnished at its lower extremity with a click y
which transforms the vertical up and down motions of the slide into partial rotary
motions of a ratchet wheel h.
This ratchet wheel h turns upon an axis in the aforesaid carrying plate b and is
retained by a click or pawl h¹ acted upon by the spring h², which click or pawl
prevents the ratchet wheel h from turning backwards while the click g, which is
pressed by the spring g', is making its downward stroke.
:
To the said ratchet wheel h is fixed a star wheel r having any suitable number
of teeth so formed as to push out progressivly a horizontal slide k, and to allow the
same to return suddenly to the bottom of the teeth by the action of a spring,
which is in the present case an india rubber band i.
The horizontal slide k moves in guides ; fixed to the above named carrier plate b;
it carries the support m for the purling needle n, which may be round, oval, flat,
or in short of the form and dimensions of the "purl" it is desired to make.
A lever, the axis o¹ of which is carried in bearings o under the head of the
machine, is caused to oscillate by a pin or projection p on the needle bar d acting in
its upward movement upon the upper end of the said lever. The oscillation inwards
of the lower extremity of the lever throws the thread beyond the path (la tombée)
of the needle in order to remove the thread from the presser foot and to cause it to be
taken by the "purling" needle, or to stretch it at each point of separation of two
consecutive "purls."
The vertical slide c is raised more or less by the needle bar d according as the
regulating screw e is adjusted; similarly the fall of the slide is limited and regu-
lated by another adjusting screw v carried in a projection of the carrier plate b,
and upon which a stop c¹ on the slide comes to rest. A second screw v¹ prevents
the slide from being raised too high by the needle bar.
The operation of the machine is as follows:-The thread F intended to form the

page_text: .
"
'purling" is supplied in the ordinary manner to the needle A, the movements of
which are combined with those of the shuttle as usual, and the arrangements for
making the stitches of sewing are the same as if the new mechanism did not exist,
but with this single difference that at each stitch the thread is thrown off (chassé)
by the aforesaid lever l.
Every upward movement of the needle bar raises to the desired extent the
vertical slide c, and the latter by its click g turns the ratchet wheel h by one or
more teeth.
The object of this rotation of the ratchet wheel is to move out, by means of the
star wheel r, the slide k carrying the "purling" needle to the extremity of the
teeth of the star-wheel r; at that moment the spring i returns the said slide, which
brings back the "purling" needle over the edge of the sewing made by the ordinary
.needle. The "purling" needle in this movement gathers the thread which
surrounds it exactly to contribute to the formation of the next stitch.
•
According as the vertical slide c makes one, two, three, four, or other number of
upward movements per division of the star wheel r, the "purls" will be spaced one,
two, three, four, or other number of stitches apart.
By adjusting the regulating screw e of the vertical slide, and by changing the
ratchet wheel h and star wheel r, the "purls" may be formed more or less widely
apart, and may have more or less stitches of sewing inserted between them.
When the needle bar d descends it leaves the vertical slide c immediately the
latter encounters the screw stop v¹. In order to avoid this separation of the two
parts any suitable arrangement of connecting rods and eccentrics producing the
aforesaid results may be employed.
If the thread be twisted, a twisted (retourné) "purl" may be obtained; if the
needle takes several threads, whether of the same shade or not, the "purl" will be
formed of several threads similarly shaded or not, and if the twist of the threads
differs entirely new effects may be produced.
This machinery may be easily utilized for the manufacture of purl chenille.
Having now described the nature of the said Invention and the manner in which
the same is to or may be carried into effect, I would have it understood that I do
not confine myself to the precise details hereinbefore described, as they may be
varied as to form, materials, dimensions, and arrangement, according to the kind
of sewing machine employed and the nature of the work to be done, but what I
claim as my Invention is,-
First. Purling apparatus adapted to and operating with sewing machinery so as
to make purls with or without intervals of stitches of sewing on manufactured
tulles, valenciennes, laces, embroidery, and other such like articles, in imitation of
the purls manufactured by machinery and subsequently added to such articles,
substantially as hereinbefore described and illustrated in the Drawings.
Second. The mechanical means herein before described and represented in the
annexed Drawings, consisting essentially in taking from the needle bar of a sewing
machine the movement for operating a ratchet wheel upon which is applied
another ratchet or star wheel which governs the to and fro horizontal motions of
the purl forming needle.
In witness whereof, I, the said Octave Léon Deschamps, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Seventeenth day of April, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and eighty.
LEON OCTAVE DESCHAMPS. (L.S.)