Improvements in the Preparation or Treatment of Furs.
Year: 1885

page_text: Improvements in the Preparation or Treatment of Furs.
I BENJAMIN JOSEPH BARNARD MILLS, of the firm of Harris and Mills of
23 Southampton Buildings in the County of Middlesex, Patent Agent do hereby
declare the nature of said Invention for IMPROVEMENTS IN THE PREPARATION OR
TREATMENT OF FURS a communication to me from Abroad by Messieurs Fustier,
Regensburger and Company of 29, Rue Puits-Gaillot, Lyons in the Republic of
France, Furriers, to be as follows :-
The Invention has for its object a new product obtained by the application to
furs, of goffering which has heretofore been applied to various fabrics.
This entirely new application can be effected by known apparatus, either
cylinders or plates heated carrying in relief the arrangements. or designs to be
reproduced, but in order to obtain a durable result the fur should previously
receive a dressing of gum, the composition of which may be varied, according to
the nature of the furs and the effects desired to be obtained.
This dressing has for its object to definitely fix the design which would soon
disappear without this precaution.
It is the combination of these two operations dressing and goffering, which
constitute the entire process which may be effected by hand or mechanically with
apparatus now known for fabrics or with new and special apparatus which latter
forms no part of the present invention.
Furs treated by this process; have the appearance of the fur completely changed
by the goffering, which produces not only effects of relief as in goffered fabrics but
also refexes and effects of light entirely peculiar completely new and which can be
varied as may be desired.
'

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Preparation or Treatment of Furs.
T
I BENJAMIN JOSEPH BARNARD MILLS of the firm of Harris and. Mills of
23 Southampton Buildings in the County of Middlesex, Patent Agent do hereby
declare the nature of this invention, communicated to me from abroad by Messieurs
Fustier, Regensburger and Company of 29 Rue Puits-Gaillot, Lyons in the
Republic of France Furriers, and in what manner the same is to be performed, to
be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This invention has for its object a new product obtained by the application to
furs, of goffering which has heretofore been applied to various fabrics.
This entirely new application, can be effected by known apparatus, either heated
cylinders or plates, carrying in relief the arrangements or designs to be reproduced.
Contrary to that which is produced on fabrics, it is the hair of the fur which is
transformed in this operation, thus velvets, plushes and other pile fabrics have
been goffered, but this goffering had for its object to crush and to cause to
disappear as much as possible, the pile at certain places, whilst leaving it intact
upon the remainder of the fabric.
In the present process, on the contrary, the hairs of the fur should remain
apparent, free and floating, they are only distorted, undulated, at the parts which
have received the pressure, which produces not only relief effects as upon fabrics
but also effects of light and very peculiar reflections entirely new, and which can
be greatly varied.
In order to obtain a durable result the fur should previously receive a suitable
dressing, the composition of which may be varied according to the nature of the
product and the effects desired to be obtained.
For this purpose a simple dressing of gum or any other known and suitable
dressing composition may be employed, I would however specially mention as very
advantageous for this purpose, the various impermeable dressings, these dressings
whilst giving fixity to the goffering at the same time render the fur proof against
humidity and thus increase both the value and the durability of the same.
A dressing of the following composition has been found to answer well.
Water 750 grammes; Acetic Acid 200 grammes; starch boiled 25 grammes, and
Borax 25 grammes.
This dressing is not intended to cause the hairs to adhere to the skin, nor to each
other, but simply to cause the undulation produced by the goffering to resist the
influences of air and moisture.
The dressed furs are allowed to dry and they are afterwards brushed before
submitting them. to the goffering process.
This last operation will be effected by means of engraved cylinders or plates,
heated more, or less according to the nature of the furs and by means of great
pressure.

page_text: Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is
1. A new product obtained by the goffering of furs of every kind and quality.
2. The process of producing a durable goffering upon furs, by the employment of
a preliminary dressing and afterwards submitting the furs to a goffering process
substantially as herein described.