IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINES FOR SEWING GLOVES, AND IN THE THREAD CATCHER TO WORK THERE WITH
Year: 1875

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Morgan-Brown, of the Firm of Brandon
and Morgan-Brown, Engineers and Patent Agents, of 38, South-
ampton Buildings, London, and 13, Rue Gaillon, Paris, for the
Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINES FOR SEWING GLOVES, AND IN
THE THREAD CATCHER TO WORK THERE WITH."-A communication from
abroad by Peter Eduard Guldbrandsen, and Johan Christian Rettin-
ger both of Copenhagen
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Morgan-
Brown at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his
Petition, on the 27th November 1875.
I, WILLIAM MORGAN-BROWN, of the Firm of Brandon and Morgan-
5 Brown, Engineers and Patent Agents, of 38, Southampton Buildings,
London, and 13, Rue Gaillon, Paris, do hereby declare the nature of
the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINES FOR SEWING GLOVES and
IN THE THREAD CATCHER TO WORK THEREWITH," to be as follows:-
This Invention of improvements in machines for sewing gloves, and

page_text: in the thread catcher fo work therewith, is constructed on the spool
system and sews with two stitches, a stab stitch and a cast stitch. The
glove is fast between cups for the sewing held by a spring; the thread
catcher or hook works horizontally instead, of vertically as in most
machines; the needle travels over the catcher and makes a double
turning while the needle pole makes but one. With this catcher no
brush is required.
The sewing is produced in the following manner:-The needle, driven
by slightly modified ordinary sewing machine mechanism, is driven
through the stuff and produces a loop which is led round by the hori-
zontal catcher, the needle standing still in the material. When the
catcher slips the loop in the course of its revolution the needle goes
backward and the stab stitch is made, the cast apparatus comes into play,
a lever or fork which leading the thread from the spool over the edge of
the material down into the cup, a loop thereby being made through
which the needle passes, the cast apparatus returns to its position, and the
cast stitch is finished.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said William Morgan-Brown in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 29th April 1876.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, WILLIAM
MORGAN-BROWN, of the Firm of Brandon and Morgan-Brown, Engineers
and Patent Agents, of 38, Southampton Buildings, London, and 13,
Rue Gaillon, Paris, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Twenty-seventh day of November, in
the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-five, in
the thirty-ninth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and
successors, give and grant unto me, the said William Morgan-Brown,
Her special licence, that I, the said William Morgan-Brown, my exe-
cutors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said William
Morgan-Brown, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at
any time agree with, and no others, from time to time, and at all
times theroafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully

page_text: might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of
Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an
Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINES FOR SEWING GLOVES, AND IN THE
THREAD CATCHER TO WORK THEREWITH," (a communication to me from abroad
by Peter Edward Guldbrandsen and Johan Christian Rettinger, both of
Copenhagen,) upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said
William Morgan-Brown, my executors or administrators, by an instru-
ment in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals,
should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Inven-
tion, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause
the samne to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar
months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said William Morgan-Brown, do
hereby declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement, that is to say :-
The machine which now is to be described is the very first glove
sewing machine of a spool system, sewing with two threads, stabbing
stitch and cast stitch; it produces a sewing that more than any other
one resembles to the sewing of the hand, and with regard to durability
is unsurpassable.
The construction of the machine is shown in natural size on the
accompanying Drawing. The machine possesses the advantage that the
most parts of the mechanism is hidden in such a way that the machine
has a much finer appearance than the glove sewing machines hitherto
known, having at the same time that practical advantage that the space
between the two cups through which the glove passes is wider than on
any other machine hitherto known.
In the accompanying Drawing Figure 1 shows a side elevation of the
machine; Figure 2, the machine seen from below; Figure 3, the
machine seen from above; Figure 4, the mechanism to set the machine
in motion; Figure 5, the spectacle seen from above; Figure 6, the catcher
in side elevation; Figure 7, the spool; Figure 8, front elevation of the
machine showing the threading mechanism between the plates; Figure 9,
the spool apparatus; Figure 10, the elevation of the machine on its
support; Figure 11, the ring which fixes the needle to the needle pole.
The mechanism offers a system of spool quite new used horizontally

page_text: which is to be remarked. On the crank A, the lowest end of which is
furnished with a swing wheel C, while the upper end passes through the
base D, is placed the greatest cog wheel B which drives the side cog
wheels E and F; the horizontal motion thus taking place quite invisibly
between the upper and lower part of the table slabs. From the cog
wheel F passes the axle G through the pillar 1, on whose upper end the
catcher H is placed in the cup K. On the side of the pillar 1 is, by two
screws an upstanding arm N, fixed on whose upper arm the spectacle L
is placed.
From the cog wheel E issues the axle P through the pillar 3,
on whose upper end a heart wheel F is placed. The upper part of the
pillar 3 is square, and through this part passes the needle pole S moved
by the heart T, in which the roll R placed on the heart wheel F is
working. The axle X, which passes through the pillar 2, on whose
upper end the cup W, and on whose lower end the feeder wheel Y arc
placed, is turned by the feeder E, sec Figure 2. On the lower end of
the axle P is placed an eccentric Q, see Figures 1, 2. By turning of
the eccentric Q the feeder D is moved sideways, whereby the pawl Q¹ on
the feeder removes the feeder wheel one cog (or stitch) forward. The
cup W is stitch by stitch turned by the feeder wheel. The cup K is
pressed against the cup W by the spring n which presses on the lever b
sitting on the lower end of the pillar 1, and turning around the centre c,
see Figures 1, 2. By a pressure of the pedal against the lever piece d
that pushes against the lever 6 (Figure 8) is the cup enabled to remove
in order that the glove coming between both cups may be taken out and
replaced. On the square piece of the pillar 3 is fixed with screws the
cast apparatus e. The heart wheel F on the edge of which two
eccentrics appear moves the cast apparatus by means of two angles f
and . The angle f is pressed by a spiral spring against the lower
eccentric by which the arm g is put in motion. The outer end of this
arm being round as a ball sticks to the hinder part of the cast apparatus
by means of a spiral spring, see Figure 1, 3. The angle i is pressed
against the upper eccentric by a spiral spring. On the piece K carried
by the angle i is placed a moveable fork in which glides the cast
apparatus, the movements of the arm g draw the cast apparatus from
one cup to the other, and the curve of the fork / raises and sinks said
apparatus, see Figure 1. The fork on the piece / leads it to the right
and to the left. Thus the operations of the cast apparatus are merely
effected by the angles f and i being put in motion by means of the two
eccentrics of the heart wheel.

page_text: The shape of the catcher is shown in Figures 3, 6. By its construction,
essentially different from the one hitherto known, we have succeeded in
producing a sewing, which with regard to elegance and durability by far
surpasses what hitherto has been produced. It is built in such a way
that the needle wanders over the catcher, makes a double turning, while
the needle pole makes but one (see Figure 2), and works without any
brush.
In order to set the machine in motion (sec Figure 4) the disk vis
given a downward pressure, thereby the axle in the middle of the
cylinder c¹ is put in conjunction with a cog wheel, which is in junction
with the great cog wheel B (Figures 2, 3). The needle is fastened
by a ring fixed on the end of the needle pole Figure 11.
The threading of the needle is shown by Figures 1, 3, and with
regard to the tension of the thread we must refer to Figures 1, 3.
The lever apparatus, see Figure 1. On the spectacle L is placed a
spring; the eccentric lower edge of the catcher causes that the lever
piece a¹ raises and lowers the arm 6. On the descending end of the
arm b¹ is placed a moveable disk, whose pressure on the spool is regulated
by the spiral spring, thereby giving to the thread its right tension, see
Figure 5. The crank A is turned by the rod O, moveable at both ends,
and drawn by the triangle p, which is drawn by the rod q fixed to the
pedal, Figure 8.
The sewing is produced in the following manner :-The needle passes
through the stuff and produces a loop which is led round by the catcher
while the needle stands in the material. When the catcher slips the
loop the needle goes backwards and the stab stitch is made; the cast
apparatus does now come into the cup K, takes the thread from the
spool and leads it over the edge of the material down into the cup W, a
loop thereby being made through which the needle passes; the cast
apparatus returns to its position and the cast stitch is finished.
Having now described and particularly set forth the nature of the
said Invention, and the manner of carrying the same into effect, I would
have it understood that what I claim as the Invention is,―
First. Machines for sewing of gloves with horizontal movement
substantially as described.

page_text: Second. The new catcher with its double turning and its working
without any brush, applicable also in all kinds of sewing machines.
Third. The cast apparatus and the arrangements by which its move-
ments are attained.
Fourth. The special arrangement by which an appropriate tension
of the spool is attained, all in conformity with the above description and
substantially as described.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Morgan-Brown, have
hereunto set my hand and seal, this Twenty-ninth day of April,
in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy- 1
six.
WILLIAM MORGAN-BROWN. (L.S.)