IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF SCOTCH BONNETS, AND IN THE MACHINERY OR APPARATUS EMPLOYED THEREFOR
Year: 1876

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Alexander Wyllie Rodger, of Stewarton, in the County
of Ayr, North Britain, Felt Hat and Scotch Bonnet Manufacturer, for the
Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF SCOTCH BONNETS,
AND IN THE MACHINERY OR APPARATUS EMPLOYED THEREFOR."
Sealed the 15th August 1876, and dated the 1st March 1876.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Alexander Wyllie Rodger at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 1st March 1876.
ALEXANDER WYLLIE RODGER, of Stewarton, in the County of Ayr, North
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE
Britain, Felt Hat and Scotch Bonnet Manufacturer.
MANUFACTURE OF SCOTCH BONNETS, AND IN THE MACHINERY OR APPARATUS
EMPLOYED THEREFOR."
This Invention, which relates to improvements in the manufacture of Scotch
bonnets, has for its object to avoid the ordinary process or operation of knitting
them, and to manufacture them by felting.
In manufacturing Scotch bonnets according to this Invention the sliver of wool
as it issues from the carding engine is wound together upon a cone of the requisite
shape and size, and to which a compound rotating and oscillating motion is
imparted, so that the sliver is wound thereon spirally until the requisite thickness
thereof is built up thereon.
In order to reduce this wool body to the consistency, shape, and thickness
requisite, it is placed on another cone which is heated by steam, and over this a
cover is placed which has a rubbing motion imparted to it, being at the same time
pressed upon the wool.
cap
After being brought to the consistency, shape, and thickness necessary, the is
milled and blocked; the outer surface is then acted upon by a burr or teasing
cylinder, after which it is further acted upon by a fine or card roller for the purpose
of raising the uap on the outer surface of the fabric. This surface is then brushed
so as to raise all the fibres up therefrom, that is to say, "on end." When in this
state the outer surface of the cap is subjected to the action of a revolving spiral
knife or cutter, which has the effect of reducing all the fibres to an equal length.
This last described process and mechanism may also be used for treating the
surfaces of knitted caps.

page_text: The cones used are preferably formed of india-rubber, which being elastic allows
them to be adjusted from time to time and altered in shape when necessary.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said Alexander Wyllic Rodger in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
28th August 1876.
ALEXANDER WYLLIE RODGER, of Stewarton, in the County of Ayr, North
Britain, Felt Hat and Scotch Bonnet Manufacturer. "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE
MANUFACTURE OF SCOTCH BONNETS, AND IN THE MACHINERY OR APPARATUS
EMPLOYED THEREFOR."
My said Invention, which relates to improvements in the manufacture of Scotch
bonnets, has for its object to avoid or dispense with the ordinary process or operation
of knitting them and to manufacture such bonnets by felting.
In making Scotch bonnets according to iny said Invention the wool, instead of
being spun and knitted into a fabric as heretofore, is in its loose or raw state passed
through a carding engine, from which it issues in a continuous flat and thin web or
sliver of the requisite breadth. This web or sliver is wound upon cones placed
base to base, and having their points or apices flattened or rounded.
The size and shape or taper of the cones is or may be varied according to the
class of Scotch bonnets which it is desired to produce, and a compound rotating and
oscillating motion is imparted to the said cones, by which means the sliver or web
of wool is wound spirally from the apex of one cone to and over that of the other,
such winding being continued backwards and forwards until a floss or flock of
wool of the desired thickness is built up. This being effected, the double cone of
wool is cut through or severed between the bases of the two rotating and oscillating
moulding cones, that is to say, at its widest part. Two cones of loose wool are thus
obtained, and these are manufactured into separate bonnets. Instead of employing
two rotating and oscillating cones in conducting this part of the process one such
cone only may be used, in which case the web or sliver of wool is wound spirally
from the base of the cone to and over the apex, and thence back to the base, until
the desired thickness is obtained.
In order to reduce the wool body obtained under either of these modes of working
to the consistency, shape, and thickness requisite to constitute the Scotch bonnet
the said woollen body is transferred to the block of a felting apparatus. A cover
is then placed over the block, and a rubbing or vibrating motion being communi-
cated to the said cover, it is caused to press upon the wool and reduce it to the
requisite consistency and thickness, or under another arrangement of working, the
cover may be stationary and the woollen body pressed against it by bydraulic,
steam, or other pressure.
On Sheet 1 of the Drawings hereunto appended Figure 1 is a side elevation
partly in section, and Figure 2 a plan of the felting machine or apparatus employed
in carrying out this part of my said Invention. Figure 3, Sheet 1, is an elevation
of the end marked X, Figure 1, of the said machine or apparatus, which consists of
a framing or table A whereon a series of blocks B are carried by spindles C which
pass downwards through the table A to another table or platform D, whereat they
are supported in blocks or bearings E, as shewn. The blocks B may be of different
forms or constructions, such being varied according to the shape of bonnet which it
is desired to produce, and also according to the system under which the operation
of felting is conducted.
Under one method of felting illustrated by the right-hand half of Figures 1 and
2, Sheet 1, solid blocks composed of wood or other similarly suitable material are
mounted on the spindles C, which at their lower ends are provided with worm
wheels a gearing into tangent screws formed or fixed on a shaft F lying at right
angles to the spindles C, and carried in bearings supported on the platform D.

page_text: Fast and loose pulleys are placed on one end of the shaft F, as seen on the
Drawings, and by a driving belt passed round the fast pulley G rotatory motion is
communicated to the felting blocks B. Each of the blocks B is provided with a
hollow cover H, which is removable, and to whose upper side a spindle b is secured.
On the upper ends of these spindles yokes c are placed loosely, the said yokes being
secured to the higher extremities of levers I, which at their lower ends are firmly
fixed on a horizontal shaft J carried in brackets on the table A. A lever K, seen
more particularly at Figure 3, Sheet 1, is also fixed at its upper end on the shaft J;
and through a sliding block d carried in the slotted or duplex lower end of the
said lever a pin fixed in a crank disc M passes. This disc, as seen in detail at
Figure 4, Sheet 1, is either formed or fixed on a horizontal shaft carried in a
bracket secured to the back of the table or framing A, and which shaft is rotated
by a belt or band passed round the fast pulley N of the fast and loose pulleys
N, O, situate thereon. When the shaft and disc M are so rotated the pin fixed in
the said disc moves the lever K through an arc, whereby the horizontal shaft J is
vibrated, and such vibration being communicated through the levers I and yokes c
to the hollow covers H of the blocks B causes the said covers to beat and press
against the woollen bodies on these blocks, whereby the said bodies are felted or
reduced to the consistency and thickness required. When this has been effected
the yokes c are turned back on the levers I so as to be out of gear with the spindles
of the covers H. The said covers are then by the attendant lifted on to the stand
P, and the felted woollen bodies are thereafter removed from the blocks B, on
which other woollen bodies to be felted in the same manner are then placed. The
pillar of the stand P is hollow, and at its lower end it is connected with a pipe Q,
through which steam is conducted from a steam boiler. A cock or valve is placed
in the said pipe, which, preparatory or previous to placing the cover Hover its
block, is opened so as to admit steam to its interior, and thereby to heat it, which
being accomplished, the steam is shut off and the cover placed over the woollen
body and operated in the manner herein-before described. Between the felting.
cover H and the woollen body an inner covering of cotton, linen, or other cloth or
fabric is preferably placed during the process of felting.
Under the arrangement illustrated by the left-hand side of Figures 1 and 2,
Sheet 1 of the Drawings, the felting of the wool to be formed into a cap or bonnet
in accordance with my said Invention, in lieu of being effected by the beating
action herein-before described, is performed by hydraulic, steam, or other pressure
exerted at the inside of the moulding blocks B₁. The portions f of the blocks
over which the woollen bodies are placed are, under this arrangement of working,
made of india-rubber or other elastic material which is or may be secured to a
rigid base g attached as shewn on the Drawings, or in other equivalent manner, to
the spindle C, which is made hollow throughout its length, water, steam, or other
fluid under pressure being conducted therethrough from the pipe R, which com-
municates with the compressing apparatus or with the steam boiler, a cock or valve
h being placed in the branch from the said pipe leading into the bearing of cach
spindle C. The covers H¹ of the moulds B₁ are or may be made in two halves
hinged or jointed together, as shewn on the Drawings, or in an equivalent manner,
the different portions whilst in position on the blocks being held together by hooks
or other suitable catches; and if desired the said covers may be held or pressed
downwards vertically on the blocks by apparatus provided for that purpose. When
the wool has been placed over the clastic block or mould B¹, and the cover H¹
adjusted in position, water, steam, or other fluid under pressure is admitted to the
interior of the said clastic block or mould, which is thereby distended so as to press
the woollen body against the cover H¹, with the requisite amount of force to reduce
it to the consistency and thickness desired. When this has been effected the water,
steam, or other fluid is allowed to escape through the pipe x, or through any other
suitable exit, so as to release the pressure, after which the cover H is removed and
the felted woollen body lifted off the block or mould B¹. This method of felting
the wool is especially applicable in the manufacture of broad crowned Scotch

page_text: bonnets, that is to say, of such bonnets as have the crown wider than the portion
which encircles the head of the wearer; and in practising the said mode of felting
the cover is or may be heated by steam in the manner herein-before described, a
stand P being provided for that purpose.
Each felting machine is or may be constructed to carry out both the systems of
felting set forth, and the felting blocks and their spindles C are or may be remov-
able, so that when desired the operation of felting may be performed with one class
of the blocks on all the spindles C of the apparatus.
After being brought to the consistency, shape, and thickness necessary under any
of the modes herein-before set forth, the cap or bonnet is milled and blocked in the
ordinary manner of milling and blocking such caps or bonnets. The outer surface
is then acted upon by a burr or teasing cylinder, after which it is further acted
upon by a fine or card roller for the purpose of raising the nap on the outer
surface of the fabric. This surface is then brushed so as to raise all the fibres up
therefrom, that is to say, "on end," and when in this state the outer surface of the
cap or bonnet is subjected to the action of a revolving spiral knife or cutter which
has the effect of reducing all the fibres to an equal length.
The machine or apparatus by which the burring or teasing, carding, brushing,
and cutting actions are performed is illustrated in front elevation at Figure 1, in
plan at Figure 2, and in end elevation at Figure 3, Sheet 2, of the appended
Drawings, and as shown thereon the said machine consists of a framing A., carrying
at its front upper part a cylinder B, whereon the burrs are arranged in parallel
or spiral rows, the said burrs, when worn, being removed and replaced by others.
Immediately behind the burring cylinder B the card roller or cylinder C is
supported in bearings on the framing A, and behind the said roller the brush
cylinder or roller D is similarly carried. These cylinders or rollers B, C, and D are
rotated from a shaft E by belts or bands passed round pulleys on the said shaft and
also on the spindles of the rollers. At the rearward side of the framing A a
revolving roller F, whose periphery is furnished with a series of straight or spiral
knives, is carried in a frame G which is supported in blocks a carried on armis or
brackets projecting from the framing A, as shewn on the Drawings. The frame G
is adjustable vertically in the blocks a and the arms b, projecting from the said
frame, and from which the knife or cutting roller F is suspended, is also adjustable
horizontally or backwards and forward in the frame G. A blade c, fixed to the
under side of the frame G, extends along the roller F in proximity to the cutting
edges thereof, and a similar blade d carried in the projecting upper part X of the
framing A also extends along the cutting edge of the said roller, a space which is
or may be adjustable to a greater or less width being left between the inner edge
of the blades c and d, as seen at Figure 3, Sheet 2.
In operating with this machine the cap or bonnet, after being dyed, blocked, and
milled, is held by the attendant with its outer surface against the burrs f of the
revolving cylinder B, by which means the surface fibres are teased or separated
from each other. When this has been effected the cap or bonnet is laid upon the
travelling table, band, or web h which passes round a roller or drum fixed on the
shaft E, and also round another roller K carried in bearings at the front part of
the framing A. By the band or web the cap or bonnet is moved through the
machine to the revolving fine or card cylinder C, by the teeth or card pins of which
the nap or fibre on the outer surface of the cap or bonnet is raised up. The cap or
bonnet is then, by the travelling web h, carried rearwards to the revolving
cylinder or roller D, by which its surface is brushed so as to raise all the fibre "on
end," and in this state the cap or bonnet is delivered from the web or band h. It
is then by the attendant at the rearward side of the machine held with its outer
surface in the space between the blades c and d, whereat it is acted upon by the
revolving knife roller F, which has the effect of reducing all the surface fibres to
an equal length. The cap or bonnet is then finished by sewing on the ribbons, or
in some cases the ribbons may be sewn on before the cap or bonnet is submitted to
the action of the knife roller F.

page_text: The operation herein-before described of teasing, carding, brushing, and cutting,
and the mechanism used therein, is equally applicable for the treatment of knitted
as distinguished from felted caps or bonnets, and it is intended to employ the said
operations in the manufacture of Scotch caps from such knitted fabrics.
Instead of passing the cap or bonnet after being burred or teased through the
machine, and therein submitting it to the action of carding and brushing rollers, as
herein-before set forth, it may be carded and brushed by hand after being burred or
teased, it being explained that do not confine myself to employ machinery con-
structed precisely in the manner herein-before described and shewn on the two
appended Sheets of Drawings, as the same is capable of considerable variation
without departing from the essential features of my said Invention.
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of my said
Invention, and the system, mode, or manner in or under which the same is or may
be used or practically carried into effect, I would observe in conclusion that what
I consider to be novel and original and therefore claim as the Invention secured to
me by the hercin-before in part recited Letters Patent is,―
First. Constructing Scotch caps or bonnets by felting wool slivers in contra-
distinction to manufacturing such caps or bonnets by knitting, as heretofore, the
said wool slivers being formed into a conical shape by building them on revolving
and oscillating cones, substantially as herein-before described.
Second. The arrangement and employment of the apparatus shewn on Sheet 1
of the Drawings in the manufacture of Scotch bonnets by felting, such apparatus
being used to reduce the woollen body to the requisite consistency, shape, and
thickness under either of the arrangements of working herein-before described.
Third. The clastic or flexible moulds or blocks B₁ (Sheet 1), and the employment
of the same, as and for the purpose set forth.
Fourth. The arrangement and employment of the apparatus constructed sub-
stantially as illustrated on Sheet 2 of the Drawings for raising the nap on the
outer surface of the fabric, and for reducing the fibres to an equal length in the
manufacture of Scotch bonnets or caps by felting, as herein-before described.
Fifth. The employment of the said apparatus, substantially as set forth in
similarly treating Scotch bonnets manufactured by knitting the fabric as distin-
guished from felting the same.
In witness whereof, I, the said Alexander Wyllie Rodger, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Twenty-fifth day of August, One thousand eight
hundred and seventy-six.
ALEXANDER WYLLIE RODGER. (L.S.)