Fustians, Cords, Velvets, Velveteens, and other Pile Fabrics.
Year: 1885

page_text: Fustians, Cords, Velvets, Velveteens, and other Pile Fabrics.
I, JOHN PLATT, of The Mount, Walton near Warrington in the County of
Chester, Master Fustian Cutter do hereby declare the nature of said Invention for
IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR CUTTING THE PILE OF FUSTIANS,
CORDS, VELVETS, VELVETEENS AND OTHER PILE FABRICS, to be as follows:-
My invention relates to improvements upon the invention for which I applied
for Letters Patent N° 7168 on the 3rd May 1884.
My present improvements consist
First, in employing a web or bed of strong cloth or other suitable material upon
which the pile fabrio to be cut is stretched; the sides or edges of the bed of cloth
preferably project beyond the edges of the piece or pieces of pile fabric in order to
effectually support the knife or knives when cutting the fabric near the edges.
Secondly, in employing two, or more, crossbars each with a knife or knives, and
so arranged that the knife (or knives) on one crossbar is cutting the fabric while
the knife (or knives) on the other crossbar is being brought back to the front end
of the machine.
Thirdly, in employing two driving belts (each with a fast and loose pulley) or
their equivalents in order to impart a fast or a slow speed, as required, to the
endless bands or chains.
Fourthly, in an arrangement whereby the machine is stopped automatically,
when the crossbar reaches the front end of the machine, by a stop on one (or both)
of the endless bands or chains, which carry the crossbars, coming against a lever
connected to the knocking-off motion, which moves the driving belt from the fast
to the loose pulley, and at the same moment applies a brake to any convenient
revolving part, and stops the machine, while a peg or projection at each side of the
machine is moved in front of the crossbar and brings it to a stand at right angles
to the fabric and at a convenient place for the operative, who then removes the
knife (or knives) from the carrier. By moving a lever, the pegs are withdrawn, the
brake released and the machine started at its slow speed to carry the crossbar partly
round the pulley, when a stop fixed to one of the endless bands actuates another
knocking-off motion, and again stops the machine, the crossbar being brought to a
stand at right angles to the fabric by pegs or projections as before; each peg may
be provided with a spring, if required, in order to avoid jar or accident. The

page_text: operative the inserts the knife (or knives) in the race, pushes it under the carrier,
and starts the machine at its quick speed, by pressing a treadle or its equivalent.
Fifthly, in fitting a light metal or other roller in front of each crossbar this
roller is supported at each end in light bearings hinged or connected to the endless
bands or chains and runs upon the fabric for the purpose of keeping the bands and
cross bar at a uniforın distance from the fabric.
Sixthly, in pivoting a trigger to the vertical plate hinged to the knife haft in
such manner that if the knife point turns sideways out of the race the pusher plate
acting on this trigger will cause the vertical plate to close on its hinges and allow
the carrier to pass over leaving the knife stationary on the fabric. To assist and
expedite the releasing of the trigger a light lever, on which a piece (or pieces) of
card clothing or other suitable material is secured to the side next the fabric, may
be fitted to the knife haft in such manner that when the knife meets with an
obstruction the clothing or its equivalent catches on the fabric and causes the lever
to move a catch and release the trigger.
Seventhly, in place of securing the knife directly to the haft as at present
I prefer to secure the knife to a metal socket the shank of which is squaro or of
other section and fits into a recess formed to receive it in the haft: two or more
knives may be secured in this way to a single haft, and by moving and setting the
-sockets the position of the knives may be adjusted as required.
H. B. BARLOW,
Agent for Applicant,
4, Mansfield Chambers,
7, St. Ann's Square, Manchester.

page_text: improvements in machinery or Apparatus for Cutting the File of
Fustians, Cords, Velvets, Velveteens, and other Pile Fabrics.
I JOHN PLATT, of The Mount, Walton, near Warrington, in the County of
Chester, Master Fustian Cutter, do hereby declare the nature of said Invention for
IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR CUTTING THE PILE OF FUSTIANS,
CORDS, VELVETS, VELVETEENS, AND OTHER PILE FABRICS, and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement:-
My invention relates to improvements upon the Invention for which Letters
Patent were granted to me on the 3rd May 1884, Nº 7168.
My present improvements consist:-
;
First, in employing a web or bed of strong cloth or other suitable material upon
which the pile fabric to be cut is stretched; the sides or edges of the bed of cloth
preferably project beyond the edges of the piece or pieces of pile fabric in order to
effectually support the knife or knives when cutting the fabric near the edges.
Secondly, in employing two or more crossbars each with a knife or knives and
so arranged that the knife (or knives) on one crossbar is cutting the fabric while
the knife (or knives) on the other crossbar is being brought back to the front end
of the machine.
Thirdly, in employing two driving belts (each with a fast and loose pulley) or
their equivalents in order to impart a fast or a slow speed as required to the endless
bands or chains.
Fourthly, in an arrangement whereby the machine is stopped automatically when
the crossbar reaches the front end of the machine by a stop on one (or both) of the
endless bands or chains which carry the crossbars, coming against a lever connected
to the knocking off motion which moves the driving belt from the fast to the loose
pulley and at the same moment applies a brake to any convenient revolving part
and stops the machine, while a peg or projection at each side of the machine is
moved in front of the crossbar and brings it to a stand at right angles to the
fabric and at a convenient place for the operative who then removes the knife
(or knives) from the carrier. By moving a lever the pegs are withdrawn, the
brake released and the machine started at the slow speed to carry the crossbar
partly round the pulley when a stop fixed to one of the endless bands actuates
nother knocking off motion and again stops the machine, the crossbar being
brought to a stand at right angles to the fabric by pegs or projections as before;
each peg may be provided with a spring if required in order to avoid jar or
accident. The operative then inserts the knife (or knives) in the race pushes it
under the carrier and starts the machine at its quick speed, by pressing a treadle,
or its equivalent.
Fifthly, in fitting a light metal or other roller in front of each crossbar; this.
roller is supported at each end in light bearings hinged or connected to the endless.
bands or chains and runs upon the fabric for the purpose of keeping the bands and.
crossbar at a uniform distance from the fabric.
Sixthly, in pivoting a trigger to the vertical plate hinged to the knife haft in
such manner that if the knife point turns sideways out of the race, the pusher

page_text: plate acting on this trigger will cause the vertical plate to close on its hinges and
allow the carrier to pass over, leaving the knife stationary on the fabric. To assist
and expedite the releasing of the trigger a light lever on which a piece (or pieces)
of card clothing or other suitable material is secured to the side next the fabric
may be fitted to the knife haft in such manner that when the knife meets with an
obstruction the card clothing or its equivalent catches on the fabric and causes the
lever to move a catch and release the trigger.
Seventhly, in place of securing the knife directly to the haft as at present
I prefer to secure the knife to a metal socket, the shank of which is square or of
other section and fits into a recess formed to receive it in the haft; two or more
knives may be secured in this way to a single haft, and by moving and setting the
sockets the position of the knives may be adjusted as required.
And in order that my Invention may be fully understood and readily carried into
effect I will describe the accompanying three sheets of Drawings, reference being
had to the figures and letters marked thereon.
Figures 1 and 2 are end elevations Fig. 3 a side elevation. Fig. 4 an elevation
of the driving end and Fig. 5 a plan of a machine for cutting pile fabrics according
to my Invention. Figs. 6, 7, 8 and 9 are detailed views, on an enlarged scale, of the
knife and guide with the haft and the pusher or carrier for traversing the knife
along the fabric and Figs. 10 to 15 are views of modifications of the same.
Similar letters refer to similar parts throughout the several views.
I employ a web or bed of strong cloth or other suitable material a upon which
the portion of pile fabric b to be cut is stretched over rollers supported in the usual
way in the head or driving end c and the back or tail end c¹ of the frame; my
object in employing the web or bed of strong cloth a is to keep the fabric b level
and to support the knife more effectually when cutting near the edges of the
fabric b; d is the driving shaft of the machine mounted in suitable bearings on the
frame c and on this shaft d are mounted two pairs of fast and loose pulleys e et
and ff respectively; the pulleys e e¹ are for giving a quick motion and ff¹ for
giving a slow motion to the machine; if more convenient the shaft d may be
driven by gearing, friction discs or otherwise; on the shaft d are also fixed the two
flanged pulleys g one on either side of the machine and at the opposite end of the
machine on the frame c¹ is mounted in adjustable bearings the shaft h on which
are two flanged pulleys i corresponding to the pulleys g; two endless bands or
belts (or chains or ropes may be employed) pass from end to end of the machine
over the pulleys g and i the flanges of which keep the belts in their places parallel
to one another; to these belts j are secured the ends of one or more crossbars / (the
Drawing shows two, which is the number I prefer to use) on each of which is fitted
a carrier, the position of which can be adjusted by moving it along the bark as
required; to the carrier is hinged at a pusher plate 2 which bears against the
upper part of the plate m to push the knife, shown in Figs. 6 to 9 through the
race; this plate m is hinged to the back end of the haft m' to which the knife m²
is secured; m³ is the guide for the knife attached to the front of the blade; a crook
or angle piece m' is secured to the hinged plate m, the base of which plate is made
flat or nearly so and rests on a plate spring n secured to the haft m¹ and capable of
adjustment by the spiral spring n¹; this plate spring n keeps the hinged plate m
in a vertical position until the knife makes a hole in the fabric or leaves the race
and meets with any obstruction when the increased pressure causes the pusher
plate to overcome the resistance of the spring n and the plate m to close on its
hinges thereby allowing the carrier to pass over and leave the knife m² and
guide m³ stationary in the fabric; a bar or cross piece o is fixed to the haft m¹ and
rests upon the fabric a in order to support the haft and its appurtenances. To the
carrier is hinged at a picker up p at the front end of which is secured a bar p¹
which rests on the haft m while the knife is cutting the fabric; when the knife
reaches the end of the race and is in the position shown in full lines on Fig. 6, the
crossbar and carrier begin to pass upward over the pulleys thus moving the
pusher plate out of contact with the hinged plate and drawing the. bar pl

page_text: under the crook m into the position indicated by dotted lines in Fig. 6; as the
crossbar passes upward round the pulleys i the bar pl moving upward with it
catches up the crook m¹ as shown in Fig. 8, raises the knife so that its point is lifted
clear of the fabric and carries the knife m² and guide m³ back to the front end of
the machine; there is a stop j¹ on one of the endless bands j fixed at some distance
in front of each crossbar and as either of the crossbars & approaches the pulleys ga
stop j' comes in contact with and moves a lever q pivoted at q' which lever
moves the strap fork guide bar which is held against a catch by the plate
spring until it is released by the action of the lever when it is drawn back by
the spiral spring ² connected to it and so moves the driving belts from the fast
pulley e to the loose pulley e¹ and stops the machine, the crossbar / being brought
to a stand by the peg or projection t. The operator then removes the knife from
the bar of the picker up p and presses his body against or otherwise moves the
bar u which is connected by levers and cranks u¹ to the rod u² connected to the
strap fork guide bar which is therefore moved and so shifts the belt from
the loose pulley f¹ to the fast pulley f and starts the machine at its slow speed; as
the strap fork guide bar u³ is moved to shift the belt v, the lever t¹ connected to it
moves the lever t² pivoted at t³ and so draws back the peg t clear of the crossbar k,
which then moves slowly round the pulleys g until the operator ceases to press
against the bar 2 when the springs draw back the strap fork guide bar u³
thereby shifting the belt from the fast pulley f to the loose pulley f¹ and
stopping the machine and simultaneously by means of the levers t¹ and t² moving
the peg t into the position shown in the Drawings. The crossbar is brought to a
stand at right angles to the fabric 6 by means of the two stops or pegs w and w¹
placed one on either side of the machine and moved backward or forward simul-
taneously, the stop w¹ by means of the lever w² pivoted near the centre at w³ and
at one end to the stop w' and at the other end to the rod w which is connected by
the rod w to the strap fork guide bar r, and the stop w by means of the lever w
pivoted near the centre at 7 and at one end to the stop w and at the other end to the
bar . The operator now inserts the knife and guide into another race and pushies
it forward under the pusher plate 12 which swings to allow the plate m to pass
under it. The pusher plate 12 then moving on its hinges falls down behind the
plate m and the operator then starts the machine at its quick speed by pres-ing
down the treadle x which is secured to the rocking shaft on which is
fixed the arm the other end of which is jointed to one arm of the bell
crank lever 3 pivoted at and connected by the other arm to the strap
fork guide bar r which it moves when the treadle is pressed down by the
operator and so shifts the belts from the loose pulley e¹ to the fast pulley e and
starts the machine at its quick speed and simultaneously as the bar is moved it
actuates the connecting rod w* and pivoted lever w² and also the pivoted lever w
and so draws back both the stops w and w clear of the crossbar k. The stops w
and w are shown provided with springs w8 in order to prevent jarring or accident.
The strap fork guide bar r is held against a catch by the spring r¹ and retained in
position until the stop again moves the lever q to release the bar r in the manner
already described there is a handle q² fixed on the lever q by moving which handle
the operator can at any time in case of accident or otherwise release the bar r to
shift the belts from the fast pulley e to the loose pulley e¹ and so stop the machine.
The crossbar k is brought round the pulleys g at the slow speed with the brake y
applied to the brake wheel d¹ fixed on the shaft d but as soon as the treadle x is
pressed down to start the machine at the quick speed in the manner described the
lever y fixed on the rocking shaft ¹ raises the long arm of the lever y² which is
pivoted to the frame at y³ and jointed to the rod y which is free to slide vertically
and which carries the brake y so that when the long arm of the pivoted lever y² is
raised as above described, the rod y is lowered and the brake y moved out of
contact with the brake wheel but as soon as the strap fork guide bar is
released to shift the belts and stop the machine the rocking shaft a turns and
moves the levei y' leaving the springs y and y6 free to raise the sliding rod y' and

page_text: again apply the brake. The knife and guide continue to be traversed through the
race in the fabric b until the stop j¹ in front of the second crossbar actuates
the lever and stops the machine as previously described thereby bringing the two
crossbars to a stand in the position shown in the Drawings; the knife is then
removed from the second crossbar at the head of the machine which is then
re-started at the slow speed to carry the second crossbar down round the pulleys g
and the other crossbar k-with the knife lifted out of the fabric by the picker
up p-up round the pulleys i and in this manner while one knife is cutting the
fabric the other raised clear of the fabric is being brought back to the operator
until the whole width of the stretched portion of fabric b has been cut when a fresh
length of fabric may be stretched on the bed of cloth a and cut in a similar
manner.
More than one knife and guide may be employed on each crossbar k, and more
than one piece of fabric b stretched on the web or bed a and one or more of the
knives may cut one or more pieces of fabric b simultaneously.
In front of each crossbar k there is a light metal or other roller z supported in
light bearings a¹ connected to the bands j; these rollers z run upon the fabric b for
the purpose of keeping the bands j and crossbars k at a uniform distance from the
fabric, and for the purpose of keeping the fabric b level.
Figs. 10 and 11 show two slightly modified constructions of the knife haft m¹
with its hinged plate m and of the carrier.
Figs. 12 and 13 show another construction of knife haft m¹ and also illustrate
my improved method of securing the knife to the haft.
In this arrangement I hinge the vertical plate at 1 to the haft m' as before but
I form the plate in two pieces and hinge the upper piece 1m to the lower 2 m
at 2 and I pivot a trigger 3 to the upper piece at 4 and connect the lower end of
the trigger 3 to the lower piece 2 m by a small spring 5 in such manner that the
end of the trigger rests between the projection 6 on the haft m¹ and a projection 7
on the lower piece 2 m and so keeps the two pieces 1 m and 2 m rigid but free to
close on the hinges at 1 in the manner already described for the plate m.
: My object in using the spring trigger 3 is as follows:-If at any time the knife
point turns sideways out of the race the pusher plate 12 presses the upper end of
the trigger 3 inward and so moves the lower end outward clear of the projections
6 and 7 which allows the upper portion 1 m immediately to close on its hinges and
allow the carrier 7 to pass over leaving the knife stationary in the fabric.
To accelerate the action of the hinged plate 1 m, 2 m I fit a light lever 8 on the
underside of the haft m¹ and on this lever 8 which is free to slide lengthwise'
I secure a piece of card clothing or other suitable material 9 and to the bar or cross
piece o I hinge a plate 10 also provided with card clothing or its equivalent 11 and
I secure a spring 12 to the underside of the haft m' which spring 12 bears against
the back of the plate 10; the end of the lever 8 is bent or curved and enters a.
slot in the plate 10 and so holds up the latter as shown in full lines on the
Drawings until the knife meets with an obstruction when the card clothing 9
catches on the fabric and causes the lever S to stop while the forward movement
of the haft m' releases the plate 10 which is forced by the spring 12 into the
position indicated by dotted lines and so the card clothing 11 catches on the fabric
and causes an increase of pressure which causes the pusher plate 2 to close the
plate 1 m, 2 m on its hinges at 1 and leaves the knife stationary on the fabric.
In place of securing the knife m³ directly to the haft m¹ I secure the knife to a
metal socket 13 the shank of which is square or of other section and fits into a
recess 14 formed to receive it in the haft; two or more knives m² may be secured
in this manner by sockets 13 to a single haft m¹ as illustrated by Fig. 13 and by
moving the sockets and setting them by means of the collar 15 or otherwise; the
position of the knives may be adjusted as required.
Figs. 14 and 15 show a modification of the arrangement illustrated by Figs. 12
and 13
>

page_text: The plate m is made in one piece hinged at 1 to the knife haft m¹. I dispense
with the plate spring and keep the plate m in a vertical position by means of
the spring trigger 3 pivoted to it. I dispense also with the plate 10 and pivot a
small elbow lever 16 to the haft at 17 and I connect one arm of this elbow lever
to the lever 8 at 18 and the other arm of the elbow lover 16 comes behind the
lower end of the trigger 3 so that when the knife m² meets with any obstruction,
and the card clothing 9 catches on the fabric the increased pressure causes the
lever 8 to turn the elbow lever 16 on its pivot 17 and so press out the end of the
trigger 3 clear of the projection 6 thereby allowing the plate m to close on its hinges
leaving the knife stationary on the fabric. The trigger 3 is also moved to release
the plate m when the knife turns sideways out of the race in the manner already
described with reference to Figs. 12 and 13. The construction of the haft m²
is also slightly varied as it is provided with a plate spring 19 which rests upon the
metal socket 13 and helps to guide and retain it in position. Only one knife m²
is shown in Figs. 14 and 15 although it is obvious that two or more knives may
be secured to the same haft m' in the manner illustrated by Fig. 13.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
Invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is
1. The construction, combination, and arrangement of parts forming the
improved machine for cutting pile fabrics, substantially as herein shown and
described for the purposes specified.
2. In a machine for cutting pile fabrics cither by hand or by power, the use
and application of the web or bed of strong cloth or other material a, in the
manner and for the purposes herein set forth.
3. The use and application of two or more crossbars, each with a knife, or
knives, and its (or their) appurtenances, substantially in the manner and for the
purposes herein described and as illustrated by the Drawings annexed.
4. In a machine for cutting pile fabrics, the combination with the endless
bands, or their equivalents, by which motion is transmitted to the knife or
knives, of mechanism for imparting two speeds to the said endless bands, substan-
tially in the manner and for the purposes herein set forth.
5. The combination with the stop j¹, or its equivalent, of a knocking off motion
by means of which the driving belt is moved from the fast to the loose pulley
and simultaneously a brake is applied to stop the machine, substantially in the
manner herein shown and described.
6. The use and application of the rollers z, as and for the purposes herein
set forth.
7. The spring trigger 3, substantially as herein set forth for the purposes
specified.
8. The combination with a knife haft of a lever or levers provided with card
clothing or other suitable material, substantially in the manner and for the purposes
herein set forth.
9. The method of securing a knife or knives to the haft m' by means of a
netal socket or sockets 13, substantially as herein shown and described.
H. B. BARLOW,
Agent for Applicant,
4, Mansfield Chambers,
17, St. Ann's Square, Manchester.