IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY FOR SEWING CLOTH AND OTHER MATERIALS
Year: 1856

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Smith, of 10, Salisbury Street, Adelphi,
Civil Engineer, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY FOR
SEWING CLOTH AND OTHER MATERIALS."-A communication from Edward
Howard and others, of Massachusetts, U. S.
Sealed the 8th May 1857, and dated the 11th November 1856.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Smith at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
11th November 1856.
I, WILLIAM SMITH, of 10, Salisbury Street, Adelphi, Civil Engineer, do
hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
MACHINERY FOR SEWING CLOTH AND OTHER MATERIALS" (a communication from
Edward Howard and others, of Massachusetts, U. S.) to be as follows:-
In the following explanation of the nature of the improvements comprised
in this Invention, it is deemed necessary to refer to and describe those
machines for which Patents have been granted in France and England in 1853
and 1854, for or on account of my aforesaid foreign correspondant.
The present Invention, consisting of improvements on those last before
mentioned, and is described in the following Provisional Specification and
accompanying Drawings.
Fig 1 is a transverse sectional elevation exhibiting the needles and their
working arms; Fig. 2 is a front elevation of the same; Fig. 3 a back view of

page_text: same; Fig. 4 a top view; Fig. 5 is a sectional view of the compound
feed rings and their supports and the mechanism applied thereto for rotating
the rings in either direction. Such other Figures as may be necessary to
illustrate and describe this Invention will be hereafter referred to and
explained.
DESCRIPTION.
A is the frame or table for supporting the operating portions of this
apparatus; B the driving shaft, on which is fixed a fly wheel C, such shaft
being caused to revolve by means of a foot treadle D, or by any other
convenient means; E a tri-armed lever, whose fulcrum is a shaft a, and which
has a reciprocating motion imparted to it by means of a crank 6 fixed to the
inner end of the driving shaft B by a cranked arm c (which projects from the
lever E), and a connecting rod d, arranged as shewn in Drawings. The two
needles F and G are respectively applied to supports attached to the working
arms & and fof the lever E, and being arranged with respect to the curved
thread sporits or guides I, R, shewn in Fig. 1. The sporits or guides are
supported by arms M, N, secured to the top plates of the table. Each needle
operates in connection with a thread-stretcher or bender O & P, and plays
into and out of the same, and through the top of the tablo A, and transversely
through the spaco g', between the two feeding rings R' and S', each ring being
placed on the one side of the path of each needle. The thread bender or
stretcher O bends or stretches the sewing thread, and moves it towards the
needle, so that it is seized by the needle during its return or backward
movement.
Fig. 7 is a top view, and Fig. 8 a side view of the thread bender or stretcher
O, and Fig. 9 a front view of the same. Each thread bender or stretcher
consists of a rotary shaft h, having an eye or bead i formed as shewn, each
shaft having affixed to it two small grooved pulleys 7, 7, and a cam m. The
two thread benders are alike in construction, there being one for each needle.
In Fig. 10 are shewn two cams S, S, fixed on the driving shaft B, which
operate two levers, 7, attached at their outer ends to their respective chains
n and o, which chains being connected, and extend partially around the
peripheries of their respective pulleys 1, 1, the other ends being attached to
their respective springs g. 9. Each of the levers 7, r, are depressed by their
cams 5,, at each revolution of the driving shaft, thereby causing a semi-
rotation of each of their respective thread benders, which are connected to
the lovers by the chains n and o as described; the thread benders being
caused to rotate backward in a reverse direction by the reaction of their
springs q, q, each thread bender being arranged in its bearings, so that it may

page_text: be moved longitudinally therein by the operation of the cam m against a fixed
stud or pin t, and by this movement is made to carry the thread forward
towards the needle, far enough to be seized by the book of the needle during
its rearward motion, which draws the thread through the material sewn. The
backward longitudinal motion of each thread bender is effected by a spring u
attached to the other end of its shaft, as seen in Fig. 1. Each thread bender
is provided with a jaw v arranged on it as shewn in the Drawings, so as to
operate in connection with a nipper w, which turns upon the shaft of the
bender, and is connected with the framing by a spring x. After the needle has
drawn the thread through the cloth and the eye of the thread bender, the
bender is caused to revolve so as to nip and hold the thread between its jaw v
and the nipper, and draw it tight across the back of the needle and hold it
stretched across the eye of the thread bender, while the bender is moved
forwards, so as to carry the thread under the hook or back of the needle, the
needle will seize the thread and draw it downward and through a discharge
passage or opening y, formed out of that side of the head or eye of the thread
bender opposite to that on which the jaw is placed.
The material while being sewn is placed on the top of the table A, and on
the peripheries of the two feeding rings R', S', upon which it is pressed or
held down by the action of a presser T, which should have a passage or slot =
formed in it for the needles to work through, as shewn in top viow, Fig. 11,
and by this arrangement of the presser it will rest directly upon the cloth on
both sides of the path of the needle, so as to press the cloth down upon the.
feeding rings. An important advantage results from having two feed rings or
wheels and the presser, as the cloth is thereby properly held on both sides of
the needle's path when turned about during the operation of sewing, so that it
neither produces undue strain on the needles, nor do they become bent, and so
cause uneveness in the stitches. The feeding rings R' and S' rotate on a
circular supporting frame or strut U, secured to the underside of the table
plate A, each of the rings being provided on its inner surface with internal
geer a', shewn in Figs. 5 and 6.
Fig. 6 exhibits an inner side view of the feeding rings and their supports.
A lever V is applied to the supporting strut, and turns upon a fulcrum shewn
at 6; this lever serves to support the inner end of the feeding shaft c', shewn
in Figs. 1, 5, and 6, the end of the shaft working in the lever. On the
shaft c' is a pinion d', which geers into another pinion e', which works in a
stud projecting from the lever V, so that when the outer arm of the lever
passes downward the pinion d' is thrown into gear with the internal feed

page_text: arrangement, and when the arm V moves in the opposite direction the pinion
d is thrown out of gear, and the pinion e¹ is connected with the feed wheels.
By this arrangement the rotary motion of the feeding rings can be reversed
whenever necessary, that they may be caused to rotate from right to left and
from left to right, according to the kind of stitch that is required. As when
they revolve in one direction "a running stitch," an "over and over," or "&
hemming stitch is produced, and when revolving in the opposite direction
producing a "back stitch," "half and quarter back stitch," or "a tailor's side
stitch."
On the outer end of the feed shaft c¹ is a ratchet f' and a lever g¹
jointed at its outer end to another lever h', having its fulcrum at its front end,
and is drawn upward by a spring 2.
Fig. 12 represents a side view of the lever h' and the feeding arrange-
ment.
From the inner end of the lever 9' a chain extends up to and partially
around the fulcrum shaft a of the tri-armed lever E, and which is attached to
the upper side of the fulcrum shaft. The lever g' and the shaft c' has a ratchet
rawl and a cast off m³ to throw the pawl out of the teeth of the ratchet.
By means of a screw rod n³ and nut o' the cast off is elevated or depressed,
and so the action of the pawl on the ratchet can be varied, and by which
means the exact length of stitch required can be obtained. A reciprocating
motion is imparted to the lever g' by the action of the shaft a, the chain k',
and the spring, which motion of the lever g' causes the pawl to actuate the
feed rings through the feed shaft. A spring r³ encompasses the rod n' between
the head S' fixed to its top, and the strut p', and through which strut the rod n'
slides, and is kept in its proper position. By pressing the finger on the head S,
so as to depress the cast off, the pawl may be prevented from acting on
the ratchet, and the feed rings may thus be arrested at any time during the
machine's operation.
Fig. 13 is a top view, and Fig. 14 a vertical section of the feeding
arrangement and apparatus to be used in connection with the needles, for the
purpose of enabling the machines to make or sew eyelets or eyelet holes.
In carrying out this part of the Invention the cloth is fed by an apparatus,
so constructed as to impart to the material in which the eyelet is to be made a
continuous rotary motion on a small stationery tube t', which communicates by
a vertical side slot or passage with a corresponding stationery passage a¹,
both being so arranged on the top of the table that one of the needles of the
machine may pass or play through the tube t, and that the other needle may
play through the corresponding passage u' at the side of the tube t'.

page_text: The tube may be bevelled off at its upper end for the more easy insertion
through the cloth preparatory to forming the eyelet; the feed arrangement w¹
is arranged horizontally or at right angles, and concentrically to the axis of
the tube t, so as to rest and turn round in an annular groove or space a³, made
in the top of the table A.
The upper surface of this feed wheel may be roughened or serrated as
shown at q', and the periphery may have ratchet teeth as shewn at a', by which,
through the action of a pawl against the teeth, the feed wheel may or will
have an intermittent motion imparted to it.
In the sewing effected by machines constructed according to this Invention,
a single thread drawn upward and downward by the successive operation of
the two needles, perfect stitches are formed similar to those made by band.
Fig. 15 is a novel kind of needle for forming loop stitches in machines
worked with two needles.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said William Smith in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
11th May 1857.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, WILLIAM
SMITH, of No. 10, Salisbury Street, Adelphi, Civil Engineer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Eleventh day of November, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-six, in the
year of Iler
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me,
the said William Smith, Her special licence that I, the said William Smith,
executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said William
Smith, executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with,
and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the
term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel
Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY FOR
SEWING CLOTH AND OTHER MATERIALS" (a communication from Edward Howard
and others, of Massachusetts, U. S.), upon the condition (amongst others)
that I, the said William Smith, by an instrument in writing under , or
their, or one of their hand and seal, should particularly describe and ascertain
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be
performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Offico

page_text: within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said
Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said William Smith, do hereby declare the
nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement, and the accompanying Sheets of Drawings, in which it has been
deemed necessary for the better explanation of the nature of the improvements
comprised in this Invention, and that the same may be properly understood to
describe and represent moro or less those machines or portions thereof for which
Patents have been already granted in France and England (in 1853, 1854,
& 1856) for or on account of my aforesaid correspondents, in improvements
of which, and in parts of sewing machines operated with two needles the
present Invention chiefly consist.
In Sheet One of the accompanying Drawings the improvements refer to a
hand-stitch machine. Fig. 1 being a transverse sectional-elevation, exhibiting
tho needles and their working arms; Fig. 2 is a front clevation of the same;
Fig. 3 is a back elevation of same; Fig. 4 is a top view or plan; and Fig. 5
is a sectional view on a longer scale or full size, of the compound feed rings
and their supports, and the mechanism applied thereto for rotating the rings in
oither direction.
Such other Figures as may be necessary to illustrate and describe part
of the Invention, as Figures 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, &c., in
Sheet One, will be herein-after referred to in detail, and be explained, as will
also the Figures in Sheet 2, being complete views of machines, and details
thereon; and also in Sheet 3, which contains views of the eyelet-hole machine
and the variations therein, as also the details thereof.
The following description refers to Sheet One.
DESCRIPTION.
A is the frame or table for supporting the operating portions of this appa-
ratus; B, the driving shaft, on which is fixed the fly wheel C, such shaft being
caused to revolve by means of a foot treddle D, or by any other convenient
means; E, a tri-armed lever, whose fulcrum is a shaft a, and which has a
reciprocating motion imparted to it by means of a crank b, fixed to the main
of the driving shaft B, by a ecranked arm c (which projects from the
lever E), and a connecting rod d, arranged as shewn in Drawings.

page_text: The sporits or guides are supported by arms M, N, secured to the top
plates of the table. Each needle operates in connexion with a thread.
stretcher or bender O and P, and plays into and out of the same, and through
the top of the table A, and transversely through the space g between the two
feeding rings R' and S', such rings being placed on opposite sides of the path
of each needle. The thread bender or stretcher O bends or stretches the
sewing thread, and moves it towards the needle, so that it is scized by the
needle during its return or backward movement.
Fig. 7 is a top view, and Fig. 8 a side view, of the thread bender or
stretcher O; and Fig. 9, a front view of the same.
Each thread bender or stretcher consists of a rotary shaft h, supported in
bearings, having an eye or head i, formed as shewn, each shaft having affixed
to it two small grooved pulleys 1, 1, and a cam m. The two thread benders
are alike in construction, there being one for each needle.
In Fig. 10 is shewn two cams in their respective positions S, S, fixed on
the driving shaft B, which operate two levers, attached at their outer ends to
their respective chains n and o, which chains are connected with and extend
partially around the peripheris of their respective pulleys 1, 7, the other ends
being attached to their respective springs q.
Each of the levers r, r, are depressed by their cams s, s, at each revolution
of the driving shaft, thereby causing causing a semi-rotation of each of their
respective thread benders, which are connected to the levers by the chains n
and o, as described, the thread benders being caused to rotate backward or in
a reverse direction by the reaction of their springs q, q, each thread bender
being arranged in its bearings, so that it may be moved longitudinally therein
by the operation of the cam m, against a fixed stud or pin t, and by this
movement is made to carry the thread forward towards the needle, far enough
to be seized by the hook of the needle during its rearward motion, which
draws the thread through the material sewn.
The back ward longitudinal motion of each thread bender is effected by a
spring u, attached to the other end of its shaft, as seen in Fig. 1. Each
thread bender is provided with a jaw v arranged on it, as shewn in the
Drawings, so as to operate in connection with a nipper w, which turns upon
the shaft of the bender, and is connected with the framing by a spring X.
eye
After the needle has drawn the thread through the cloth and the of the
thread bender, the bender is caused to revolve so as to nip and hold the thread
between its jaw and the nipper, and draw it tight across the track of the
needle, and hold it stretched across the eye of the thread bender while the
bender is moved forward, so as to carry the thread under the hook or barb
บ

page_text: of the needle; the needle will seize the thread and draw it downwards and
through a discharge passage or opening, formed out of the side of the head or
eye of the thread bender opposite to that ou which the jaw is placed.
The material while being sewn is placed on the top of the table A, and on
the peripheries of the two feeding rings R, S¹, upon which it is pressed or
held down by the action of a presser T, which should have a passage or slot =
formed in it for the needles to work through, as shewn in top view, Fig. 11;
and by this arrangement of the presser it will rest directly upon the cloth on
both sides of the path of the needle, so as to press the cloth down upon each
of the feeding rings. The presser T may be moved or operated' up and down
by a rack and pinion and other suitable means. An important advantage
results from having two feed rings or wheels, and the presser thus disposed with
respect to the needle path, as the cloth is thereby properly held on both
sides of the needle's path when turned about during the operation of sewing,
so that it neither produces undue strain on the needles, nor do they become
bent and so cause uneveness in the stitches. The feeding rings R' and S¹
rotate on a circular supporting frame or strut U, secured to the under side of
the table plate A, cach of the rings being provided on its inner surface with
internal gear a', shewn in Figs. 5, 6. Fig. 6 exhibits an inner side view of the
feeding rings and their supports.
A lever V is applied to the supporting strut, and turns upon a fulcrum,
shewn at ; this lever serves to support the inner end of the feeding shaft c',
shewn in Figs. 1, 5, 6, the end of the shaft working in the lever. On the
shaft c' is a pinion d', which gears into another pinion e', which works on a
stud projecting from the lever V, so that when the outer arm of the lever is
pressed downward the pinion d' is thrown into gear with the internal feed
arrangement, and when the arm of the lever V moves in the opposite direction
the pinion is thrown out of gear, and the pinion e' is connected with the
feed wheels. By this contrivance and arrangement the rotary motion of the
feeding rings can be reversed whenever necessary, that they may be caused to
rotate from right to left or from left to right, according to the kind of stitch
that is required, as when they revolve in one direction a running stitch, an
"over and over," or a hemming stitch is produced, and when revolving in the
opposite direction, producing a "back stitch," half and quarter back stitch,"
or a "tailor's side stitch.
Near the outer end of the feed shaft c¹ is a ratchet f¹ and a lever g', sce
Fig. 1, pointed at its outer end to another lever h', Figs. 1, &c., having its
fulcrum at its front end, and is drawn upward by a spring t³.
Fig. 12 represents a side view of the lever ' and the feeding arrangement.

page_text: From the inner end of the lever g¹ a chain k¹, extending up to and partially
around the fulcrum shaft a' of the armed lever E, and which is attached to
the upper side of the fulcrum shaft. The lever g' and the shaft c' have a
ratchet pawl A, and a cast off m' to throw the pawl out of the teeth of the
ratchet. By the means of a screw rod n² and nut o' the cast off is elevated
or depressed, so that the action of the pawl on the ratchet can be varied, and
by this means the exact length of stitch required can be obtained. A recipro-
cating motion is imparted to the lever g' by the action of the shaft a', the
chain k, and the spring i", which motion of the lever g causes the pawl to
actuate the feed rings through the feed shaft. A spring encompasses the
rod between the head s', fixed to its top and the strut p', and through which
strut the rod n' slides and is kept in its proper position. By pressing the
finger on the head s¹, so as to depress the cast off, the pawl may be
prevented from acting on the ratchet, and the feed rings may thus be arrested
at any time during the machine's operation. A hemming stitch is produced
by bending the under or lower needle a little outward, so that it will run
before or outside the upper needle.
gul
Fig. 13 is a top view and Fig. 14 a vertical section of the feeding arrange-
ment and apparatus to be used in connection with the needles for the purpose
of enabling the machine to make or sew eyelet or eyelet holes.
In carrying out this part of the Invention the cloth is fed by an apparatus
so constructed as to impart to the material in which the eyelet is to be made a
continuous rotary motion on a small stationary tube t', which communicates by
a vertical side slot or passage v¹ with a corresponding stationary passago u¹,
both being so arranged on the top of the table that one of the needles of the
machine may pass or play through the tube t, and that the other needle may
play through the corresponding passage u' at the side of the tube t'.
The tube may be levelled off at its upper end for the more casy insertion
through the cloth preparatory to forming the eyelet. The feed arrangement w
is arranged horizontally or at right angles, and concentrically to the axis of the
tube t¹, so as to rest and turn round in an annular groove or space a¹ made in
the top of the table A.
The upper surface of this feed wheel may be roughened or serrated as shewn
at q, and the periphery may have ratchet teeth, as sewn at ¹, by which,
through the action of a pawl against the teeth, the feed wheel may or will have
an intermittent motion imparted to it.
Under these circumstances, when a piece of cloth is placed on the feed
wheel, and so as to have the tube t' extending through said cloth, the inner

page_text: edge of the hole made through said cloth, and embracing the tube, may be
sewed with over and over stitches while the cloth is being revolved on the
tube, and the needles are put in operation, so as to work respectively through
the tube and its hole w'.
In order to maintain the cloth on the feeding gear a spring presser may be
used, the same being made to extend on opposite sides of the tubo t¹.
In Figs. 22, 23, & 24, W represents the spool from which the thread may
be taken to supply the needle. In order to apply the thread to the machine,
the said thread should be passed under a little guide pin X, and thence horizon-
tally to the left, and under and against the eye of the upper thread bender, the
thread being held loosely in the left hand, but with sufficient strain to draw it
straight across the said eye. Next take hold of the balance wheel, and turn
it so as that its top shall approach the front edge of the table. This will cause
the lower needle to rise into the eye of the upper thread bender. It will also
cause the needle to be properly presented to receive the thread. By continuing
to rotate the balance wheel in the direction as represented, the lower needle
will descend and carry with it the thread, drawing it through the lower thread
bender, which in its turn will be operated so as to present the thread in a
proper manner to the action of the upper needle during the vertical movements
of the latter, the thread being drawn upwards and downwards through the
cloth by the successive operations of the two needles.
In order to make a perfect "back stitch" the under needle should be
arranged so as to pass through the same hole made by the upper needle. So
in order to form what is termed a "half and quarter back stitch" the distanco
between the stitches should be lengthened by screwing the nuts down upon
the rod n', so as to produce such a space between the stitches as may be
desirable.
That the construction and arrangement of the several parts of the hand
stitch machine may be the better understood, I have shewn them in Sheet 2 of
the accompanying Drawings. Fig. 17 is a perspective view of a double
needle machine mounted on standards with a fly wheel and treadle; and
Fig. 18 is a front elevation of the same machine to a large scale (or about half
the full size), without the standards or treadle. Fig. 19 is an enlarged view
of a needle and needle holder. In these views the letters and small figures of
reference are used merely to refer to the 3 Figures in Sheet 2, and indicate
corresponding parts in those Figures, and are without any reference, and are
not intended to apply to similar parts in any other Figures, for although in
these views chains and re-acting springs are shewn as applied for giving

page_text: motion to the "thread benders" in manner like a drill-bow, or what is known
as a whip motion; I prefer to use a rack and pinion, or the equivalents for
working each thread bender shaft to a proper extent, and at the proper time,
and such rack and pinion or other positivo motion may be worked by a lever
taking its motion from a cam on the driving shaft, although in the following
Figures 20 to 24 other modifications are shewn, in which a short chain is still
used or retained for the purpose in certain cases, as is therefore now herein
described.
Figs. 20 to 24 represent modifications in the arrangement and construction
of these machines for the purpose of rendering them as simple and certain in
their action as possible, and as in practice positive motion is, as already stated,
for several reasons found more desirable than the use of springs for producing
the return action of the operating parts, whilst at the same time this change
is made, a more simple and compact arrangement generally of the machine
is effective, as seen in the Drawings referred to, and its efficiency and perma-
nent action under full speed are also increased.
The improved mode now to be described for effecting the requisite move-
ments of the thread benders, and the longitudinal and rotary action of their
shafts, dispenses with the long chains & springs connected with them, as
first described, and substitutes for the action of springs positive motions
by means of a different construction of the cams in connection with the
levers,, so that the latter are moved forward and back positively by the
cam itself, and this movement is connected to the rods q, q, to the arms
(11 & 12) of which the chain that pass round and are attached to the
pulley of the shaft h are secured and drawn firm by the outside nuts,
so that when the rods q, q, are moved up and down by the arm of
the lever r, r, they operate after the manner of a whip, and effect the semi-
rotation forward and back of the shafts h and benders O & P with a positive
and uniform motion, which is communicated also by their operation to the
longitudinal movement of the shaft, which now has a stud t fixed to it, which
plays in a corresponding cam groove m cut in the interior surface of the
sheath p which encases the shaft head, and within the latter revolves. The
sheath p is shown in Figs. 21 & 27 as cut open, exhibiting the shaft head
within it; in Fig. 21 & in Fig. 27 exhibiting the cam m in its inner surface.
Upon the driving shaft B is placed a cam block or cam wheel, having the cam
grooves 8, s, cut in either face, in which the studs b, b, attached to the levers
r, r, play. The rotation of the cam wheels through the operation of the cam
grooves s, s, and stud b, b, actuate the lever r, r, to which the studs are
attached, and which have their fulcrums at a, a, near the outer portion of the

page_text: frame A on which they freely play. The chain rods q, q, are attached respec-
tively to the outer arms q', the levers r, r, by the up and down movement of which
they are correspondingly moved. Figs. 25 & 26 exhibit the manner in which
the chain n which passes round and is secured by a pin c, c, to the shaft h, is
attached and drawn "taught " by nuts and screws at its ends to the upper and
lower arms 11 & 12 of the rod q, which operates with equal force to draw the
chain n either way by its up and down movements, and consequently the shaft h
to turn either way according as the chain is drawn in either direction, and
thus by its action effects the necessary semi-rotation forward and back of the
shaft hand thread bender O; by this contrivance a more permanently steady,
equal, and uniform motion is secured than the action of springs for producing
the return motions could afford. In the application of this Invention, as shewn
in the general arrangement of the machine now described, the latter is made
compact, light, and portable, and may be turned by the hand applied to the
handle II of the wheel C, or by the application of a trendle attached to the
handle, or by any other suitable means; the framework A, A, made in a single
piece, wheel-shaped, with four curved interior supporting divisions carrying the
center boss, which contains the working needle arms, is secured to the stand or
foot L, which, if desired, may be firmly fixed to a table or bench by screws
through the tripedal extremities. The frame A near its circumferenco is
provided with a suitable boss and bed piece for bearings to carry the driving
shaft B, which revolves with the fly wheel C and cam S, S, and by the crank
it operates the machine. The thread spouts I, R, aro provided in this machine
in the face of the outer circumference of the frame A, which is channelled to
form them, and the frame A is thus made and arranged as to carry either
as part of or attached directly to itself the entire operating parts of the machine.
Fig. 20 represents a side view of the machine, with the fly wheel side
presented and arranged with a sewing table D, such as is intended to be used
with the rotatory feed before described bercin, which feeds in a circle so as
turn the article sewn in a circular rotation round and round the needle, and
is thus applied for the purpose of sewing eyelets. Fig. 21 represents the
opposite side presented, shewing the needle arms, and arranged with a flat
table D and feed wheels similar to the first described construction of machino
in Fig. 1, and so on, and to which it is otherwise similar in the sewing that is
effected by it and the working of the needles, the modes of applying the operating
power only being varied. Fig. 22 exhibits a rear view of the same machine,
the lower support a, a, for the underside lever » being carried over the breadth
of the cam wheel that the lever may work upon its outer face, the upper lever
working on the inner face. Fig. 28 represents a front view of the same,

page_text: shewing the position of the thread spouts I, R, sunk into the frame A, and
again partly shewn in Fig. 24, which represents a top view, and in which
arrangement of the lower lover r is better seen.
All these foregoing machines relate to the working of two straight, or
nearly straight, needles constructed with beards or hooks, and which may be
with or without pistons or other contrivances for closing the hook, so as to form
a temporary cyc.
We come now to another arrangement of needle, also for working two
straight needles together, of the description shewn at Fig. 15 on the Pro-
visional Drawings, and also at Figure 15 on Sheet 1, and now further
illustrated at Fig. 29 in Sheet 3, the details of which are arranged and shewn
in tho shape and form exhibited by the Figs. 30, 31, & 38, and to the various
modifications and arrangements for working these needles the remainder of
these illustrations pertains. These needles are for operating the stitch known
as the loop stitch, in the formation of which by machine work it has been a
desirable point to secure the most certain and simple method for passing the
upper needle with the loop it forms through the loop formed by the under
needle, as when the latter is not properly opened, so as to pass outside or
entirely without the other, the stitch is missed particularly when double
needle bars are used. Where this has been attempted by circular needles,
which make a long circuit round about the vertical needle, they are liable,
from the unequal strain upon them, and tendency to spring and bend in their
bearings, to be deranged, and thereby to get both needles out of order; and
when done by two straight needles, the underside one oscillating so as to
pass alternately on either side of the vertical needle; and also in the varying
contrivances that have been practised for opening and parting the under side
needle loop, the thread of the under loop has failed to be carried always back
far enough to pass outside the descending vertical loop. The present con-
trivance and construction of needle is believed to overcome this defect.
operation of the needle is represented by Figs. 29, 30, & 42; is shewn in
Fig. 42, in which the underside needle F, having passed its loop thro' the
upper thread to the extent of its throw, the finger piece f has moved forward
from within the needle F, catching the under thread loop and holding the
loop open, so that the vertical needle with its loop descending in the place G
is sure to pass within this loop that is held open. A similar result is obtained
by the somewhat differently arranged needle seen in Fig. 39, in which the
fingerf is arranged in a different position, and is moved outwards and forwards,
and carries with it the undersido thread, and opens the loop to receive the
vertical needle.
The

page_text: A third arrangement of underside needle is shown in Fig. 31, in which
the piece is turned down and forwards, as seen in Fig. 34.
Fig. 43 is a plan of arrangement of machinery for operating these needles;
Fig. 44, a side elevation of same; Fig. 46, one end view of same; and
Fig. 45, a view partly in section at the line X, Y, of the same, the operating
power being applied to effect the motion of the shaft 6 and the bar g, as
shewn in Figs. 47, 48, the shaft having a rotating motion and the bar a
reciprocating or forward and back movement, by the combined operation of
which the underside needle F is actuated. Upon the shaft b a cam block s
is fixed, having cam grooves s, s, cut upon each face, in which the stud plays
of lever c moving upon the fulcrum e attached to the frame a; the outer
arm of this lever is connected at top to a bar i, which at its other end is
formed to receive another bar n, which slides forward and back within it.
A precisely similar arrangement may be placed and operated on the other
side of the cam wheel S of another lover c and another bar i, which latter
also receives the bar 1, which thereby is more steadily-held-in-position, and
which slides back and forth thro' the head or holder of the bar r in corre-
spondence with the reciprocating movement of the bar g, with which it is
connected by means of the lever L, which is turned upward at its shorter
arm to form the upright portion k, which being bored forms a socket for the
leg piece p provided to the bar n, by which leg the bar n is held, and carried
by the end socket piece of the lever L, which cam thus accommodates their
varying position to the permanent longitudinal direction of the bar n, shewn
in Fig. 43. This contrivance gives the required motion to the lever L while
attached to and moving upon the moveable bar g for operating the needles
now described, and which motion communicated by the arm q to the crank r
effects, by the partial rotation of the outer arm of the crank r either in a
horizontal or vertical position, the action of the several modifications and
arrangements of needles illustrated herein; that which is represented in
Fig. 43 is the needle shewn in Fig. 39. The bar g rests upon bearings in
the supporting divisional partition h at j, and at its extremity it is expanded
into the frame g, g, Fig. 46, which further rests upon bearings at j, j, so as
to ensure its steadiness and firmness in carrying the needle F, which is inserted
into its upper part. The lever I rises again at its longer arm end into the
upright position L, L, to accommodate it to the top position of the frame g, g,
where the needle is attached, the working parts of which latter are illus-
trated in the following described Figures; Fig. 38, A, exhibits a top view
of the external appearances of the needle; Fig. 38, a side view (as placed
for working) of same, shewing the opening for the play of the crank arm r;

page_text: Fig. 37, the opposite view of same, with piece S that carries the figure
piece f taken out; Fig. 35, end view of the needle, presenting the eye;
Fig. 37, A, a section of the needle, shewing the steel shell; also in Fig. 36 & 37,
which encases and is slipped upon or over the working parts of the needle.
The interior has two plates or parts, the lower n, u, having curvilinear grooves
v, v, sunk into it to receive the studs of the piece S, of which the finger f
forms a part. The arm of the crank r is then attached to the piece S, and
the top plato w place above it held in place by several pins passing into the
lower plate u; the external steel shell is then put over all, and the whole.
secured by screw or any proper means in the socket provided in the frame g, g,
to receive the needle. The needle and working parts are now in the position
drawn in Fig. 43, and by the operation of the whole, when the return stroke
of the bar g has thrown the needle to the end of its throw, and the simultaneous
rotation of the shaft b and cam S throw the lever L to its opposito position,
the needle and parts will be in the position shewn by the dotted lines. The
crank n having carried down the piece S, so that the finger fis in the position
seen in Fig. 39, and by the repetition of this action the interlacing of tho
threads to form the chain stitch is carried on. A slight variation of the
application of the crank, shewn in Figs. 30, 40, 41, and 42, shews an arrange-
ment for moving the fingerf directly forward, catching and holding the thread
by merely projecting at top; Fig. 30, B, the finger returning to its place
after the needle is retracted past the needle, and then freeing the thread,
whereas in Fig. 39 arrangement the finger f has an eye at the end, through
which the under thread passes, and the finger is returned to its place before
the underside needle is retracted or drawn past the vertical one. The
operation is so clearly exhibited by the Drawings as to be readily perceived
without further reference in this description.
Fig. 33 is another modification, in which the crank r operates vertically
instead of horizontally as in the others, carrying with it the piece f, which
turns down and outwardly from the face of the needle, which is presented in
Fig. 33, so as to bring it together with the under side thread in the position
seen in Fig. 34, when the vertical needle descending within the loop, the
underside needle F is retracted in the opened position shewn, until the
finger end has passed the vertical needle, when it returns to its place and
releases the underside thread, which is carried by the indenture shown in
the top view, Fig. 32. Fig. 33A, shews a section of this needle; 33B,
the vertical operation of the crank r, by which when moved to the position
of the dotted lines the piece f is moved forward from the needle face.

page_text: Fig. 36a, exhibits the piece S detached; and Fig. 360, an underside view
of the same.
In the sewing effected by machines constructed according to the first part
this Invention; a single thread drawn upward and downward by the successive
operation of the two needles perfect stitches are formed, similar to those made
by hand.
Having thus fully described the nature of this Invention as communicated
to me, the novel features claimed are,―
1. The semi-rotating or revolving thread benders, constructed and operated
or worked substantially as described.
2. The feed apparatus with two feeding rings, or double or compound
rings, or feed wheels, arranged to hold the cloth on both sides of the needles,
substantially and essentially as described.
3. The combination with the feeding ring or rings of the mechanism for
rotating the same in opposite directions, whereby their rotary motions may
be reversed in manner and-for-the purpose as specified and described.
4. The combination-of- the slotted tube and whole u', connected, applied
together, and used in the manner and for the purpose herein-before described,
in combination with the feeding wheel and the sewing mechanism described.
5. The tube t' and hole u¹ applied together, or the equivalents therefor, as
described, whereby cloth may be held, rotated, and have an eyelet or eyelet
hole worked or made in it in the manner described.
6. The rotating feed in combination with the sewing mechanism described.
7. The construction, combination of (working) parts, and arrangements for
working underside and straight needles in combination with vertical (or two
needles in conjunction), for the purpose and in the manner substantially as
represented and set forth herein.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Smith, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Ninth day of May, One thousand eight hundred
and f
Witness,
GEORGE CHURCHILL.
WILLIAM SMITH. (L.S.)