Improvements in Sewing Machines.
Year: 1892

page_text: Date of Application, 19th Jan., 1892-Accepted, 30th July, 1892
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Sewing Machines.
I WILLIAM YOUNG OBER, of Lynn, State of Massachusetts, United States
of America Manager do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement reference being had to the annexed drawings
where
Fig. 1 represents a side elevation of the improved machine.
Fig. 2 represents a plan view of the same the wax pot being shown as removed.
Fig. 3 represents a perspective view of the upper head portion showing the awl
and cast off as well as the other parts of the stitch forming mechanism.
Fig. 4 represents a detail side view of the upper head portion showing a welt in
the welt guide and a shoe held in position during the operation of sewing the welt
to the upper and insole.
Fig. 5 represents a cross section on the line X X in Fig. 2 showing cast off
looper needle, presser foot and means of operation.
Fig. 6 represents a similar section on the line X Y in Fig. 2 showing the awl
and mechanism for operating the same.
Fig. 7 represents a rear side elevation of the machine head, the driving pulley
being shown as removed.
Fig. 8 represents a detail side elevation of the upper part of the head and a
sectional view of boot or shoe held against it while sewing the upper to the
channelled inner sole without sewing a welt to said parts and
Fig. 9:represents a cross section on the line Z Z shown in Fig. 2.
Similar letters refer to similar parts wherever they occur on the different parts
of the drawings.
A in Figs. 1. 2. 5. 6 and 7 represents the upper portion of the standard or post
to which the head B is secured to said post or standard is also secured a pair of
bearings cc in which is journalled the driving shaft C having secured to one of its
ends a cord or belt pulley C' which is rotated by means of cord or belt power as
is usual in machines of this kind. C is the balance wheel at the end of the
shaft C.
The invention is what is termed in the art an awl feed machine and the mechanism
for operating the awl feed is constructed as follows.
To the drive shaft C is secured a face cam D having a cam groove d adapted to
receive a pin or pin roll d'arranged on the side of a forked slide D' which is
loosely mounted so as to slide on a guide block D" journalled on the shaft C as
shown in Fig. 6. The forked slide D' is universally jointed to the rocking awl
carrier D3 by means of a link d" and joint piece d' as fully shown in Figs. 2 and 6
or by similar or like mechanism.
The awl carrier D³ is loosely journalled on a pin
the feed arm D³ as shown in Figs. 2. 6 7 and 9.
secured to the upper end of
The awl carrying feed arm D is provided with a downwardly projecting vertical
pin d journalled in a bearing in the head B and has attached to its lower end au
arm or lever D (Figs. 5 and 6) having a pin or pin and roll do at its free end
which is actuated by a cam projection e on the disc E that is secured to the rotary
driving shaft C as shown in Figs. 2 and 5.
The awl feed is produced by said cam acting on the pin (or pin and roll) on the
lever D, and as soon as the cam projection e has passed by said pin (or pin and
roll) the lever D' is automatically moved in an opposite direction (while the awl
is free from the work) by the influence of the spring E' one end of which is secured

page_text: .
to the arm D and having its other end secured to a convenient stationary part of
the machine as shown in Figs. 1, 2 and 5.
E is a set screw for regulating the amount of feed desired on the awl, said set
screw passing through a threaded perforation in the post A. and having its inner
end adapted to serve as a stop in limiting the return motion of the arm De caused
by the spring E. D' in Fig. represents the curved awl which is adjustably
secured to the awl carrier D³ preferably by means of the clamping screw and
nut or equivalent device.
The needle and mechanism for its operation is constructed and arranged as
follows.
Upon the shaft C is secured an eccentric disc F shown in dotted lines in Figs. 1,
5 and 7 which is surrounded by a strap F' having its upper end adjustably con-
nected to a rocking needle carrier F" pivoted in a suitable manner to the upper
end of the head B. In Fig. 9 I have shown the said needle carrier as provided
with a horizontal short sleeve journalled in a horizontal perforation in the
head B and held in position by means of a nut. The needle carrier may how-
ever be pivoted to the head B in any other suitable or equivalent manner as may
be desired.
F³ is the curved hook needle secured to the needle carrier in any suitable
manner. It will thus be seen that an oscillating or rocking motion is automatically
imparted to the needle from the rotary driving shaft C.
G is the cast off forming a part of a disc or washer G¹ which is held frictionally
in contact with the side of the needle carrier F as shown in Fig. 9 preferably by
having a pin or spindle g attached to said disc G and inserted loosely through the
needle carrier sleeve and provided with a coiled tension spring gland. an
adjustable nut g" for regulating the friction between the cast off plate and needle
carrier as fully shown in Fig. 9. The cast off is intermittently rocked forward
and back by means of two projections f" fllon' the needle carrier coming in
contact with a lip or projection 93 on the cast off disc G as shown in Figs. 2,
5 and 9.
His the curved presser foot secured to or made in one piece with the handle H¹
the hub of which is loosely journalled on the needle carrier sleeve. or otherwise
hung on the same axis with the needle carrier and cast off, that is mounted
concentrically with said needle carrier and cast off as shown in Fig. 9.
The presser foot H is normally held in operative position preferably by the
influence of a spring secured to the head B or other stationary part of the
machine and having its free end preferably pressing against a projection on
the handle H' as shown in Fig. 5. The presser foot is withdrawn from the work by
taking hold of the handle H and pushing it backwards. The presser foot is auto-
matically moved out from the work by the needle carrier while the feed takes
place, as is common in machines of this kind and for this purpose I prefer to
arrange a pin or projection on the needle carrier adapted to enter a slot or
groove in the presser foot lever or in other desirable or suitable manner.
The mechanism for operating the thread guide or looper is constructed as
follows.
In one piece with the cam E or secured to it or the driving shaft C is a cam
disc I having a duplex cam groove l' against which is held and guided a projec-
tion on the lower end of the thread guide lever i as shown in Figs. 2 and 5. The
said lever i is guided in a forked rocking pin or stud loosely pivoted to the
head B so as to permit said lever i to slide up and down in said stud and to rock on
it as a fulcrum when actuated by the duplex cam groove 1'. The lower end of the
lever i is held against the bottom of the duplex cam groove by the influence of a
suitable spring one end of which is preferably secured to the head B and having
its free end passing against the side of said lever i between its fulcrum guide
and lower end as shown in Figs. 2 and 5. I is the perforated thread guide
attached in a suitable manner to the upper end of the lever i as shown in Figs. 2
and 5. By this mechanism a proper movement is imparted to the thread guide

page_text: for the purpose of making a chain stitch in connection with the, needle and its
cast off.
To the underside of the upper end of the head B is secured in a detachable
manner the welt guide K having a groove or recess for receiving the welt L
which is passed through a perforation d (Figs. 2 and 6) in the awl feed carrying
arm D' before being laid in the grooved welt guide Kk as shown in Fig. 3.
The welt may be fed from a reel as is usual in welt sewing machines, such device
being however not shown in the drawing.
When it is desired to use the machine for sewing turned shoes no welt being
used, the welt guide is removed, and a solid work support K¹ substituted as shown
in Fig. 8.
In Fig. 1 M is the wax pot as usual through which the thread N is guided on
its way to the thread guide. In connection with this machine any of the usual
tension and take up devices may be used without departing from the essence of my
invention, and need therefore not be described as they are well known in the art
and form no part of my present invention.
In Figs. 4 and 8, O represents the wooden last, P the channelled insole and
the upper lasted upon the last as usual. The operation of the machine is as
follows.
.
For welt sewing, the welt is placed in its guide and the lasted shoe having the
channelled insole as described, is held by the operator against the welt guide and
the presser foot placed in the channel of the insole as shown in Fig. 4, after which
he machine is set in operation causing a single thread chain stitch to be made
hrough the bottom of the channel of the insole, the upper and the welt, the chain
bf the stitch being laid in the bottom of the channel, and during such operation,
the awl enters and perforates the insole upper and welt, then feeds by moving
sideways until the awl comes within the path of the needle when it automatically
withdraws from the work and moves back to its original position, during which
time the chain stitch is made by the needle, the cast off and thread guide and after
the stitch is made the awl again enters the work, feeds it and so on during the
operation of the machine. The action of the presser foot being the same as on
ther machines of this nature.
After the welt has been sewed on, it is cut off, the presser foot released, the shoc
removed, and another placed in position to be sewed.
This invention is very simple in construction and operation, is composed of a
very few parts, is very convenient and practical, and by its use, strong and accurate
workmanship is obtained in a very rapid manner.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of this inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is
1. In a welt sewing machine, a stationary head having pivoted to its upper end a
needle carrier, presser foot and cast off, and an awl carrier mounted upon a feed
rocker arm combined with a series of cams on the driving shaft and connections for
imparting motion from said cams to the individual members of the stitch forming
and feed mechanism substantially as described.
2. In a welt sewing machine a stationary head having secured to it a grooved
welt guide or work support and having pivoted to its upper end a needle carrier,
presser foot and cast off, and an awl carrier rocker arm for feeding the work com-
bined with a series of cams on the driving shaft and connections for imparting
motion from said cams to the individual members of the stitch forming and feed
mechanism substantially as described.
3. In a welt sewing machine a rocking needle carrier presser foot and cast off.
and a rocking and laterally movable awl-combined with a series of cams on
the driving shaft and connections for imparting motion from said cams to the
individual members of the stitch forming and feed mechanism substantially as
described.

page_text: 4. In a welt sewing machine, a rocking. needle carrier and needle attached to it
and a rotary driving shaft having an eccentric secured to it, and a strap, surrounding
said eccentric and pivoted in its upper end to the needle carrier substantially as and
for the purpose set forth.
5. In a welt sewing machine a rocking awl carrier, and awl attached to it, said
awl carrier being hung on a rocking feed arm, combined with a rotary driving
-shaft and intermediate connecting mechanism substantially as described for
operating the awl carrier and rocking feed arm in a manner as specified.
6. In a welt sewing machine, a duplex cam on the driving shaft and a thread
guide carrying bar actuated by said cam and adapted to slide and rock in a
pivoted guide and a spring for holding it in operative contact with the duplex cain
-substantially as set forth.
Dated this 10th day of January 1892
HERBERT & Co.
18, Buckingham Street, Strand, London, W.C., Agents to Applicant.