Improvements relating to the Manufacture of Lace Curtains and the like, and to Machines therefor.
Year: 1899

page_text: Improvements relating to the Manufacture of Lace Curtains and the
like, and to Machines therefor.
I, CHARLES GOODLEY, of 43 rue Quentin Barre, St. Quentin (Aisne) France, Lace
Machine Foreman, do hereby declare the nature of this Invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to the manufacture of lace curtains and the like, and to
machines therefor.
The main object of the said invention is to enable several forms, say seven, to be
made in one curtain or piece of lace, Swiss net, Swiss fining, double Madras, com-
bination or ordinary work; holes and pillaring being made in any part, as desired,
and no clipping being required.
For the purpose of my invention I employ cams or eccentrics, of which there are
four, to work the oross ground. The said cams or eccentrics operate four half bars,
arranged as in ordinary curtain machines, but each guide bar is independent. Thread
is conducted from bobbins to each guide on each half bar. Each cam is shaped so as
to cause the bar to traverse one or two gaits, and the picker stops the pillars, or makes
the work according to the arrangement of jacquard made from the draft. All-through
net is by this arrangement made off bobbins suitably arranged instead of from beams,
as heretofore. Moreover, cross net does not require drafting, and the drafting of
other forms of work is more simple than formerly. It is not necessary to count the
squares on the draft paper, but the draft may be commenced anywhere at the will
of the designer and is easy to read. Only three colours for instance would be
employed in the draft, where formerly four were used.
CL1000

page_text: Improvements relating to the Manufacture of Lace Curtains and the
like, and to Machines therefor.
I, CHARLES GOODLEY, formerly of 43 rue Quentin, Barre, St. Quentin (Aisne)
France, and now of 131 Main Street, Bridgton, Glasgow, in the County of Lanark,
Lace Machine Foreman, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in
what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascer-
tained in and by the following statement, reference being had to the accompanying
drawings and to the letters and figures marked thereon, that is to say:
This invention relates to the manufacture of lace curtains, and the like, and
to machines therefor.
The main object of the said invention is to enable several forms to be made
in one curtain, or piece of lace, say double action, Swiss net, Swiss fining, double
Madras, combination and ordinary work; holes and pillaring being made in any
part as desired, and no clipping being required.
For the purpose of my invention, I employ cams or-eeeentries, of which there are
four, to work the cross ground. The said cams er-eeeentries operate four half guide
bars, arranged as in ordinary curtain machines, but each half guide bar is indepen-
dent. Thread is conducted from bobbins spools to each guide on each half bar.
Each cam is shaped so as to cause the bar to traverse one or two, gaits, and the picker
stops the pillars, or makes the work, according to the arrangement of the jacquard
made from the draft. All-through-net-is-by-this-arrangement;-made-from-bobbins
suitably-arranged--instead-of-from-beams--as--heretofore.
Moreover, the cross net
does not require drafting, and the drafting of other forms of work is more simple
than formerly. It is not necessary to count the squares on the draft paper, as the
draft may be commenced anywhere at the will of the designer, and is easy to read.
Only four colours, for instance, would be employed in the draft.
And in order that my invention may be readily understood, I will describe the
same fully with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which:
Fig. 1 is a section through the guide bars of a lace machine embodying my
improvements.
Figs. 2, 3 and 4 are similar views shewing the picker in various positions.
Fig. 5 shews the cam for actuating the half guide bars.
Fig. 6 is a cam for twelve motion net, and
Fig. 7 is a sample draft.
Four half guide bars a, a, a, as, are arranged between two full guide bars b, b¹.
Each guide in the bars is supplied with thread as. The full bar b is placed at the
front of the machine for the warp and yarns for making combination lace, and the full
bar b₁ is placed at the back of the machine for the clothing threads. Each of the
half guide bars is independent, and is actuated by a cam at the end of the machine,
in the usual manner.
-
The construction of a cam for eight motion net is represented at Fig. 5.
For eight motion net, all the four cams actuating the four half bars would be
exactly similar in shape, but fixed on the cam shaft a half revolution, or 180°, in
advance of each other.
In this case, the action is as follows, taking for example the guide bar a, though
each of the other guide bars act similarly.
In the first motion the part 1 on the cam causes the guide bar a to rise one gait
before the pickers enter.
In the second motion the part 2 of the cam causes a fall of 1 gait before the pickers
enter,

page_text: In the third motion the part 3 of the cam acts and causes another rise after the
pickers are in.
In the fourth motion, the part 4 of the cam acts and causes the guide bar to fall
two gaits before the pickers are in. After this, the pickers enter and the part 4* of
the cam causes the guide to rise one gait.
In the fifth motion, caused by the part 5 of the cam, the guide rises one gait, after
the pickers are in:
In the sixth motion, the pickers having retired, the guide falls two gaits (under
the action of the part 6 of the cam) before they re-enter, after which it rises one gait
(under the action of the part 6×) when they are in.
In the seventh motion, the guide rises one gait under the action of the part 7 in
the cam before the pickers enter.
In the eighth motion the pickers first retire and then the guide falls one gait before
the pickers enter..
The next motion will be a repetition of motion No. 1.
The
The foregoing motions apply to the first guide on the left, viz. that lettered a. The
second guide, viz. ', would be, however, half a cycle in advance, that is to say.
whilst a was performing its first motion a' would be performing its 5th motion.
third guide a², however, would keep time with a, whilst the fourth or right hand side.
one as would correspond to the second guide a².
In making twelve motion net, two cams, as Fig. 6, half a turn different in position.
on the shaft, and two with the cutting reversed and half turn different, would be
employed.
If the picker were caused to go right through the threads at each insertion, as in
Fig. 4, combination work would be produced; if it only went partly through, as in
Fig. 3, cross other nets would be produced; if it were only just inserted, as in Fig. 2,
it would make pillaring; but if it were right back, as in Fig. 1, it would make
clothing or flowering.
For-making-twelve-motion-net, two-of-the-eams-would-be-reversed-upon-the-eam
shaft,-and-the-cam-changed-as-in-Fig.-6.
The pickers c are actuated from two jacquards in any well known and convenient
manner, the first- jacquard producing the positions or lifts of the picker shewn in
Fig. 1 for clothing and for flowering, and the second, which is a double action
jacquard, making the lifts shewn in Figs. 2 and 3 for Swiss, Madras, and cross
ground.
In making combination lace, unpunched cards are employed on both the-double
action jacquards.
All the pickers enter or retire from the threads simultaneously in making the
nets of cross ground and consequently no drafting for the alternate entry of pickers
is necessary, and the punching of the cards is materially simplified. In making Swiss
work, the picker is pulled back as in Fig. 2 on the first motion and enters, as in Fig. 3,
on the second.motion...
The trick bars d guides the pickers in the usual well known manner, and the points
of the pickers are pulled back into the trick bar d, as shewn at Fig. 1, during the
manufacture of clothing or flowering.
This arrangement of guide bars and pickers, by allowing the manufacture of the
several kinds of net in the same design or lace article, enables the whole of the threads
to be employed in the design, without any slack or loose threads connecting parts of
the design, which require removing after the lace is taken from the machine, by
clipping, cutting, or otherwise. All the threads at are carried on bobbins or spools,
with the exception of those which pass through the guides of the full bar 6, and
which constitute the warp or combination threads. There is one thread per carriage
upon the clothing bar b¹, and one two threads per two carriages upon each of the half
bars a, a', a² and a³ in the manufacture of Swiss, double Madras, and cross ground.
In drafting designs for the machine arranged as hereinbefore described, four colours
would be the greatest number required, for instance, referring to Fig. 7, double
Madras could be represented by yellow in points e; cross ground by yellow in full c';

page_text: Swiss finings by blue in full f; Swiss net by blue in points f; combination by
black g, and clothing or flowering by red h, the colours being painted on with a brush.
The paper or white would represent the pillaring. The machine can be operated to
make cross ground by the simple movement of the pickers through the threads, as
at Fig. 3, so that this could be indicated on the drafting paper by a word or symbol
without any of the usual drafting calculations being required.
In this system the combination can be made with a double nip or tie if
desired.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is:-
1.--The-manufacture-of-lace-eurtains,-and-the-like,-upon--a--lace--curtain--or--like
machine,-in--which-Swiss-net,-Swiss--fining,-double--Madras,-combination--net-and
other-grounds-and-forms--of--lace-are--formed-at--uny-part-of-the-same-article, thus
entirely-or-largely-dispensing-with-drafting-calculations-and-clipping,
as-described.
substantially
2. In-a-lace-eurtain--or--like--machine;-for--carrying--out--the-manufacture-of-the
articles-referred-to-in-the-preceding--claim,-the--employment--of--independent--half
in
combination--with-two-jacquards-for-operating the
guide-bars-operated-by-cams,
piekers;-substantially-as-described.
1. 3. In a lace curtain or like machine, as-above-claimed; the arrangement of four
independent half guide bars between two full guide bars, and the operation of the said
half guide bars by means of similar cams set half a revolution in advance of each
other, substantially as described.
2. 4. A lace curtain or like machine, as-under-Claims-2-and-3, having guide bars,
cams, and pickers arranged and operating substantially as herein before described with
reference to the annexed drawings.
5.-A-draft-for-use-with-a-lace-machine-as--referred-to--in-the-previous-claims,-in
which-no-calculations-are--required;-eress--ground--and-other-nets-being-capable-of
representation--upon-the--drafting-paper-by-a-wash-or-lines-of-colour-put-on-with-a
brush-in-the--positions--in--the-design--where--desired;--substantially--as--herein
described.