Machines for Producing the same.
Year: 1889

page_text: Machines for Producing the same.
We JOSEPH DARKER MORLEY and ROBERT WALTER SCOTT both of 2079 East
Cumberland Street in the City of Philadelphia State of Pennsylvania United States
of America Machinists do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained in
and by the following statement :-
The object of this invention is to provide fabrics, especially knitted fabrics, such as
are used for underwear, and the like, with a trimming or edging constituting a neat
and inexpensive imitation of the ordinary crochet trimmings or edgings made by
hand.
In the accompanying drawings-
Figures 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 are views illustrating different forms of trimming or edging
made in accordance with this invention.
Figure 6 is a side view of a machine for making the trimming or edging.
Figure 7 is an end view and Figure 8 is a plan view of part of the same.
Figures 9, 10 and 11 are diagrams illustrating the operation of parts of the
machine; and
Figures 12 and 13 are diagrams illustrating other ways of making the trimming or
edging.
The improved trimming or edging consists, essentially, of a row of stitches formed
on the fabric adjacent to its edge and a thread or chain engaging with the said row of
stitches at suitable intervals, and forming between these points of attachment, loops
projecting beyond the edge of the fabric, the outer portions of these loops in the
preferred form of trimming, being connected by a second row of stitches some distance
beyond the edge of the fabric.
For the formation of the edging loops or crossing threads it is preferable to use a
chain or stitches previously formed in any suitable manner and controlled by a guide
in the same manner as a single thread would be. For convenience, however, the
looping or crossing thread, cord or chain will be hereafter referred to simply as a
thread, this term being intended to include either a thread, cord or chain,

page_text: In Figure 1 is shown the simplest form of. trimming, consisting of a line of
stitches adjacent to the edge of the fabric, and a thread wo incorporated with this line
of stitches at intervals, and forming between the points of attachment, loops extending
beyond the edge of the fabric.
In Figures 2, 3, 4 and 5 are shown more elaborate forms of trimming, each having
an outer row of stitches a some distance beyond the edge of the fabric and engaging
with the outer portions of the loops formed by the thread w.
In Figure 2, simple V-shaped loops are shown formed by carrying the thread back
and forth in an inclined course from the inner to the outer row of stitches, and in
Figure 3 is shown a trimming in which the looping thread is carried straight across
from one row of stitches to the other, and form scallops or festoons. outside the outer
row of stitches.
In the trimming shown in Figure 4 two thread's are shown, forming loops similar
to those shown in Figure 2, these loops crossing each other, and one loop engaging
with the inner row of stitches when the other loop engages with the outer row of
stitches. In this trimming, also, the row of scallops or festoons beyond the outer row
of stitches is formed by an independent thread engaging with the said outer row of
stitches only, and applied thereto in the same manner as the thread w is applied to the
row of stitches a in the trimming shown in Figure 1.
In Figure is shown a further modification of this latter trimming or border, in
which three threads we are used, these threads being applied successively to the inner
and outer rows of stitches.
In order to illustrate machinery for carrying out the invention, the trimming shown
in Figure 4 has been selected, the machine for producing this trimming being shown
in Figures 6 to 11.
The machine has a needle bar with two needles a, a¹ which operate in conjunction
with two looping hooks y, y', the latter being carried by a rock shaft a an arm a¹ on
which is connected by a link a² to an arm 61 on a second rock shaft b parallel with
the first this rock shaft having an arm d which is acted upon by a cam on the main
or driving shaft g of the machine so as to impart a rocking movement to said shaft b.
The invention may be carried out however in connection with other sewing mechanism
than that shewn.
On the bed plate of the machine is a frame A. in which is a bearing for a shaft B having
at the front end a worm wheel 4 which is operated by a worm h¹ on the main driving
shaft g of the machine the rear end of the shaft B having a composite cam D com-
prising a peripheral cam i and a side face cam i¹.
The peripheral cam acts upon an arm K which is secured to a rock shaft k¹ adapted
to a suitable bearing on the bed of the machine and carrying an arm n which
terminates close to the needie of the machine and has an opening serving as a
guide for the festoon thread w² or. it may, have more than one opening so as to guide
more than one thread if desired..
The face cam acts upon one arm of a bell crank lever F the other arm of which is
connected to a slide G guided in a suitable bearing on the frame A and forked at the
outer end for connection to a pair of levers 1. I' which are located in advance of the
needles and are hung to a suitable projection on the head of the machine, one fork of
the slide being connected to the lever I between the fulcrum of the same and the lower
end while the other fork of the slide is connected to the lever I at a point beyond the
fulcrum of the same, the consequence being that as the slide is reciprocated in either
direction movement in opposite directions will be imparted to the two levers L L' which
are, provided at their lower ends with openings serving as guides for the threads ww.
The face cam is so formed that the levers II will be moved from the position
shown in Figures 6 and 9 where the ends of the levers are outside the line of the
needles to the position shown in Figure 10 where the ends of the levers are inside
said line and then to the position shown in Figure 11 where the ends of the levers are
outside the line of the needles but are in a position the reverse of that shown in Figures 6
and 9, the next movement of the levers being back again to the position shown in
Figure 10 and then again to the position shown in Figures 6 and 9.1

page_text: In making the trimming shown in Figure 4 the levers occupy the extreme positions
shown in Figures 9 and 11 for a very short time only, preferably during the formation
of but two stitches, but occupy the intermediate position for a much longer time so
that after a cross thread w is bound into each of the parallel rows of stitches a number
of stitches will be formed by the sewing mechanism before the cross threads are again,
bound in by the same so that said threads we are laid at an angle from one row of
stitches to the other and cross each other in their passage.
The peripheral cam of the composite cam D is such as to impart to the arm na
movement whereby its guide is carried back and forth in front of the needle ¹ and in
making the trimming shown in said Figure 4 the guide remains but a short time inside,
the line of the needle and a longer time on the outside of said line so as to form the
loops or scallops on the edge of the trimming by the thread 10.
It will be understood that in all of these cases the feed guide is so located that the
needle will form its row of stitches on the fabric adjacent to the edge of the
same the needle a forming. its row of stitches beyond the edge of the fabric.
In making the trimming shown in Figure 1. the machine need have but one
needle, the guide arm n having a thread back and forth in front of said needle
so as to form loops engaging at intervals with the line of stitches formed by the
said needle, the said line of stitches being on the fabric close to the edge of
the same.
Other means than vibrating guides may be used also for directing the loop or
crossing thread or threads to the needle or needles by which the confining rows of
stitches are produced, for instance in Figure 12 is shown a guide strip having
projections around which the thread w can be passed so as to form loops of the
character shown in Figure 3, these loops being confined either by a single row of
stitches as in Figure 1 or by two rows of stitches, as in Figure 3, and in Figure 13
is shown the adaptation of this same form of guide strip or bar for the formation of a
trimming of the character shown in Figure 2.
In carrying out this invention it is not necessary that the row of stitches on the
fabric should be a chain of straight-ahead stitches, as zig-zag or over-edge stitches
may be effectively used in some cases in place of the straight-ahead stitches.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we
claim is
1. The hereinbefore described trimming or edging for fabrics, consisting of a row
of stitches formed on the fabric adjacent to the edge of the same, and a thread engaging
with the said row of stitches at intervals and forming between the points of
attachment, loops extending beyond the edge of the fabric substantially as hereinbefore
described.
2. The hereinbefore described trimming or edging for fabrics, consisting of a row
of stitches formed on the fabric adjacent to the edge of the same, a thread engaging
at intervals with said row of stitches, and forming, between the points of attachment,
loops extending beyond the edge of the fabric and a second row of stitches situated
at some distance beyond the edge of the fabric and engaging with the outer portions
of the projecting loops, substantially as hereinbefore described.
3. The hereinbefore described trimming or edging for fabrics, consisting of a
row of stitches formed on the fabric adjacent to the edge of the same, a second
row of stitches situated beyond the edge of the fabric, a thread carried back and
forth between the two rows of stitches and incorporated with each, aud an outer
festoon thread incorporated with the outer row of stitches only, and forming loops
beyond the same snbstantially as hereinbefore described.
4. The combination, in a machine for trimming fabrics, of stitch-forming
mechanism having two needles for producing two parallel lines of stitches, one or
more thread guides situated adjacent to the needles and moving from one to the
other, and a supplementary thread guide moving in front of one of the needles only,
substantially as hereinbefore described.

page_text: 5. The combination, in a thread guiding attachment for sewing machines, of a pair
of levers forming the thread guide, with a slide having a forked end, one arm
connected to one lever on one side of the fulcrum, and the other connected to
the other lever on the other side of the fulcrum, substantially as hereinbefore
described.
6. The combination, in a sewing machine, of the stitch forming mechanism having
two needles for producing two parallel lines of stitches, a pair of pivoted levers
forming a duplex thread guide in front of the needles, a forked slide for operating
the said levers, a rock shaft having a supplementary guide arm acting in conjunction
with one of the needles, cams for operating the rock shaft and forked slide, and
worm gearing whereby the cam shaft is driven from the main shaft of the machine
substantially as hereinbefore described.