ощенс for Cutting and resi
Year: 1896

page_text: ощенс
for Cutting and
resi
I, MARY JANE RILEY, of 18 Wilfred Street, Accrington, in the County of
Lancaster, Teacher of Dress Cutting, do hereby declare the nature of this invention
to be as follows:-
4
117
This invention relates to improvements in charts for drafting out dresses, i.e.,
lining the material from which the dress is to be made previous to cutting out to
the required pattern, and the improvements consist in printing the charts in; and
utilizing various colours on the charts, by which frequent movement and change
of position of the charts is obviated. The charts are easier to understand, requir-
ing less instruction to thoroughly master them, many of the complications,
instructions, and scales heretofore necessary being dispensed with, and a bodice
or part of a 'dress can be drafted in much less time than was heretofore necessary.
According to this invention, I employ two charts or diagrams, one for the body
part of the dress or bodice, and one for the sleeves. Each chart or diagram is
made of stout card or pasteboard, and its edge is cut in varidusi curves and lines
for the curves and lines of different parts of the body: there are also curves and
lines formed in the charts. Instructions or explanations and scales are printed
on the charts; and the curves or lines for drafting one part of the dress are coloured,
the scales for drafting the same part of the dress being a corresponding colour,
and by this means the marking of "dots" heretofore' necessary and troublesome is
almost entirely obviated, and many of the perforations or holes in the charts are
dispensed with.
"
☐ Improvements in Charts for Cutting and Drafting Dresses.
1
I, MARY JANE RILEY, of 18 Wilfred Street, Accrington, in the County of
Lancaster, Teacher of Dress, Cutting, do hereby declare the nature of this invention
and in what manner, the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement:-
This invention relates to improvements in charts for drafting out dress bodices,

page_text: i.e., lining the material from which the dress or bodice is to be made previous to
cutting out to the required pattern, and the improvements consist in printing the
charts in and utilizing various colours on the charts, by which frequent moveinent
and change of position of the charts is obviated. The charts are easier to under-
stand, requiring less instruction to thoroughly master them, many of the
complications, instructions, and scales heretofore necessary being dispensed with,
and a bodice or part of a dress can be drafted in much less time than was
heretofore necessary.
According to this invention I employ two charts, or diagrams, one for the body
part of the dress or bodice and one for the sleeves. Each chart or diagram is made
of stout card or pasteboard, tin, or zinc, and the edge is cut in various curves and
lines for the curves and lines of different parts of the body: there are also curves
and lines formed in the charts. Instructions or explanations and scales are printed
on the charts, and the curves or lines for drafting one part of the dress are coloured,
the scales for drafting the same part of the dress being a corresponding colour, and
by this means the marking of dots" heretofore necessary and troublesome is
almost entirely obviated, and many of the perforations or holes in the charts are
dispensed with.
Such being the nature and object of my said invention, the following is a
complete description of same, reference being had to the accompanying drawings,
in which:-
Fig. 1 is a front view of the diagram or chart for drafting the body part of the
dress.
Fig. 2 is a view of the reverse side of this diagram.
Fig. 3 is a front view of the diagram or chart for drafting the sleeves of the
dress bodice.
Fig. 4 is a view of the reverse side of this diagram.
The diagrams or charts in the drawings are shewn about half full size, and the
lines, curves, and scales are indicated thereon, the lines, scales, or darts marked
Red, Blue, or Green being printed or indicated by these colours respectively.
On the face of one or both of the diagrams or charts, or on a separate card or
sheet are printed the following instructions:-
FRONT INSTRUCTIONS.
Draw two straight lines by means of chart where it is marked red. Number
them 1 and 2.
Make dot 1 at the end of shoulder line.
Dot 2 at the neck size.
Dot 3 at Arm Hole size.
Dot 4 at front length.
Place the Waist line to dot 4, make dot at waist measure.
Place Bust arrow to dot 3.
Draw line in slot. Dot at Bust measure.
Number 1 and 2 according to measure.
Slide the chart back till the red arrow touches dot made at Bust line No. 2.
Dot at No. 2 is to keep the chart straight.
Draw three lines in the upper Blue slots, then put the pencil to the under Arm
measure, and slide the Waist line to it.
Draw three lines in the lower Blue slots.
Dot 5 and 6 at Blue Hip measure.
Dot 7 at Blue arrow.
Place Black arrow at dot 7. Dot 8 at Hips according to
measure. Place Neck curve on dot 2, slide the chart til neck number touches
line 1, draw line.
Line 4 from top of line 5 to the
arrow according to size. Draw
Place the Blue arrow to the end
Draw line 3 from top of Neck to shoulder dot.
end of shoulder, draw this line with Arm Hole
lines 5 and 6 from slot to slot as chart shews.
of line 7, draw curve line as chart shews to the same length as line 6 in the Back

page_text: Line 8 red arrow as shewn.
Turn chart over for line 10.
Measure from Waist dot to
darts as follows:-
11 the same.
The remaining dot is called Waist dot.
end of bodice, this amount is to be taken out in
Place dart arrow No. 1 to dot 4, make dot at side arrow No. 2, then draw waist
line to end of bodice.
Make a dot at the 1 inch arrow, also at amount to be taken out in darts, dot in
centre. Then place top of chart to the bust line passing through the centre dot.
Make a dot at dart arrow No. 1 and draw a line six inches below the Waist line,
finish as chart shews.
To curve top of dart the chart must be turned over: this completes one dart.
For second dart place dart arrow No. 1 to the first dart, and dot as first dart.
Front hem. Place the Waist line to dot 4 and make a dot at arrow 6.
Place the bust line to dot 3 and make a dot at arrow 7 and arrow 8. Dot 9 is
half inch outside line 7.
Place red and black arrows to dot 6, draw to dot 9, to arrow 8, then to neck.
BACK INSTRUCTIONS.
Draw two straight lines by means of the chart where it is marked red.
Dot 1 at neck arrow. Dot 2 at shoulder dot. Dot 3 Arm Hole sizes. Dot 4
Back length.
Slide Bust line to dot 3, and dot according to measure. Again slide Bust line
to last dot made at end of bodice. Draw line in slot. Slide waist line to dot 4,
dot through perforation and according to measure. Dot 5 end of chart.
Dot 6 hip sizes. Slide the Waist line to the second dot on Waist line. Make
two dots for side waist. A dot at side arrow. Dot 7 according to measure. Draw
line 3 as chart shews.
Place Neck curve arrow at dot 1, slide till the measurement touches top line,
and draw line 1, straight edge touching shoulder dot, and draw line 2 according to
measure from line 1.
Now turn over the chart and draw line 3 from the end of line 2 to the end of
Bodice dot with Black and Green Arrows.
For lines 4 and 5 use Red and Blue arrows. Draw down to the second and third
dots on Waist line as chart shews. Draw line 6 and notice its length, because
line 7 in the front must be made the same length.
Lines 7, 8, and 9 are drawn straight down to the Hip dots. Curve line 10 with
Red arrow as shewn.
The use of the charts will be clearly understood from the following example:-
Certain measurements are taken on a person say for drafting a bodice. The neck
measures say 12 inches; a dot is made at 12 on scale Front Neck measure. The
shoulder 5 inches; a dot is made at shoulder line dot. Front length 15 inches;
a dot is made down the front line or Red line 2. Under arm 8 inches; a dot is
made at 8 on the front line or Red line 2 at 8. Bust measure 36 inches; make
dot at 36. Bust line number 2. Arm hole 16 inches, make dot at 16 arm hole
sizes. The back and sleeve measurements are done in a similar manner. Waist
measure 22 inches, make dot at waist dot 22. Hip measure 42, make dot at 42.
Front & Side Hips. These dots are made on the lining or paper and connected by
pencil lines drawn on different curves of the chart, the pattern is then cut out on
the lines.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is:-
(1). The improved diagrams or charts as and for the purpose herein described
and as illustrated by the annexed drawings.
(2). The improved diagram or chart for drafting the body part of a dress as
herein described and as illustrated by Figs. 1 and 2 of the annexed drawings.

page_text: (3). The improved, diagram or chart for drafting the sleeve of a dr
as herein described and as illustrated by Figs. 3' and 4 of the annexed
Dated this 7th day of July 1897.
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