Improvements in Sewing Machines.
Year: 1892

page_text: עעעUUL
Improvements in Sewing Machines.
A communication from HARRIET RUTH TRACY, Gentlewoman, of New Brighton,
in the County of Richmond, State of New York, United States of America,
and JEREMIAH EVARTS TRACY, Counsellor-at-Law, of 52, Wall Street, City
of New York, County of New York, and State of New York, United States
of America.
I, ALFRED JULIUS BOULT of 323 High Holborn in the County of Middlesex,
M. I. Mech. E., do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner
the same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement :-
The object of the invention is to produce a sewing machine in which the loop-
taker shall be capable of acting, in and of itself, as a take-up, thus obviating
necessity of a separate take-up device.
With this object in view, the invention consists, primarily, in a revoluble loop-
taker, provided with openings in its periphery forming opposing hooks, the openings
to serve to retain the needle-thread upon the loop-taker for carriage of the loop of
the needle-thread entirely around it and to keep the thread from contact with the
driving-wheel, and the opposing hooks to serve to take and take up the thread, the
loop-taker to be suitably supported and combined with a driving-device; also in
adjunctive devices to a loop-taker engaging its periphery so that positive and
accurately-timed movement may be given to the loop-taker.
In the drawings.
Figure 1 is a side-elevation of a sewing machine containing this invention;
Figure 2-is an end-elevation of the same;
Figure 3 is an inverted plan view with the reversible feed in position;
Figure 4-is a perspective view, showing the reversible feed separate;
Figure 5-is an inverted plan view, showing a portion of the machine, with the
reversible feed removed;
Figure 6-is a side view of the inner face of the loop-taker ;
Figure 7-is a side view of the outer face of the loop-taker ;
Figure 8-is an end view of the loop-taker;
Figure 9-is a similar view, showing the loop-taker revolved ninety degrees from
the position shown in Figure 8;
Figure 10-is a central, vertical section of the loop taker with a spool or bobbin
of thread in it, presenting a shuttle;
Figure 11 is a side view of the spool or bobbin with the improved tension
levice placed upon it;
Figure 12-is a detail view of a supporting device for the driving and stopping
nechanism;
Figure 13 is a view, partly in section, showing the means for accomplishing the
topping and starting of the shuttle;
Figure 14-is a view in side-elevation of a wheel having a cam-groove whereby
he pins of the stopping mechanism are operated;
Figure 15-is a detached view of the loop-taker and needle arranged to form a
ock-stitch, showing the positions of the threads just after the needle-thread has
een engaged by the loop-taker ;
Figure 16-is a view similar to Figure 15, showing the positions of the thread
hen the first loop is drawn out to its fullest extent around the loop-taker and a
econd loop is to be taken;
Figure 17-is a view similar to Figure 15, showing the second loop after being
arried a short distance by the loop-taker, and the first loop moving up to be shed;
Price d

page_text: S
released before being drawn up into the cloth;
Figures 19 to 23 illustrate the different positions assumed by the needle-thread
in the formation of a chain-stitch made by this improved loop-taker, and
Figures 24 to 26 illustrate the formation of a lock-stitch by a loop-taker provided
with three sets of hooks.
A represents the main driving-shaft of the machine, on which is placed a belt or
other driving-wheel A'.
Motion from the driving-shaft is communicated to the needle-bar and to the
shuttle in any suitable well-known way to cause two reciprocations of the needle-
bar to each complete revolution of the loop-taker.
One way of driving the loop-taker is shown in the accompanying drawings. A
large gear-wheel B of suitable size and fixed upon the driving-shaft, back of the
loop-taker has at each side of it and supported in hangers on shafts b², gear-
wheels B, of one-half the diameter of the gear-wheel B, and meshing with this
wheel, while mounted loosely on the outer ends of the shafts are gear-
wheels 133 of the same diameter as the loop-taker. Interposed between each of
the gear-wheels B and a gear-wheel B is the mechanism whereby the gear-
wheels B³ are given motion from the shafts and are stopped twice during
each complete revolution of the shaft. This mechanism comprises a wheel C
fixed upon the shafts 62, and carrying on its inner face a rigid pin e, upon
which slides a plate c², carrying a pin c, which is capable of sliding through a
hole in the wheel C to project from the front face thereof, or to be withdrawn
to a position bringing its end flush with the outer face of the wheel. The upper
portion of the plate projects a short distance above the pin and this
projection enters grooves d in plates D, on the hangers as the wheel C revolves.
The grooves d are so formed that as the pins are moved by the wheel C, said
grooves will cause these pins to move into one of the curved slots of the gear-
wheels B at the time when the needle of the machine, through suitable intermediate
mechanism is at a position to present the loop of the needle-thread, carried thereby,
to one of the hooks of the loop-taker. The pins c' entering the slots, turn the
wheels B³ around half a revolution when the pins are withdrawn by grooves similar
to grooves d and pass through an open space between the plates D before they are
again brought into engagement with the gear-wheels B. The peripheries of the
wheels C are provided with cam-grooves e, in which rest plates c, carrying pins c.
The plates care supported on the pins c', which are placed in such position on the
hangers bus to be opposite to slots 6, in the gear-wheels B. The pins receive a
reciprocating motion during the operation of the machine, and the wheels C are so
placed on their shafts that the pins care projected into one of the slots *, at the
time when the pins are withdrawn from the slots 6, serving to check the motion
of the gear-wheels. As additional means of checking the motion of the gear-
wheels B, the spring-seated pins c with their outer ends rounded, are provided
these pins being designed to enter indentations in the inner face of the gear-wheels,
placed in such position as to be opposite the pins c when the impelling pins are
withdrawn. The loop-taker of the machine is designated by the letter E. It is
preferably made in the form illustrated in the drawings, decreasing in thickness
from a point near its center towards its circumference where the thickness is so
reduced as to present a small edge, and the periphery is provided with gear-teeth
meshing with those of the gear-wheels B³.
The loop-taker displayed in Figures 1 to 23, is shown as provided on opposite
sides with openings e, e, extending inward from its periphery, which produce
opposing hooks e, e, and holding and escape hooks e, e'. Between each set of hooks
is a space of sufficient width to permit the free entrance and escape of the thread.
The openings e, e, are preferably formed as shown, slanting inward from the
periphery of the loop-taker, thereby producing the short hooks e, e, by which the loop
of the needle-thread is engaged, and the elongated retaining and escape hooks e*, e',
by which the loop is taken after passing approximately half-way around the loop-

page_text: taker, retained and then released beneath the needle. Where the loop-taker has
two peripheral openings forming two sets of hooks, the opposing hooks e³, es, are
about at diametrically opposite points on the periphery, and the loop-taker must be
stopped at the proper point in each half revolution, in order to cause it to complete
a stitch and take up all slack; but, in order not to have to stop the loop-taker, this
may have three or any further uneven number of peripheral openings, the loop-
taker being properly timed with relation to the movement of the needle, and the
opposing hooks are then far from diametrically opposite. The shuttle is supported
in a circular race-way formed by the brackets e', attached to the frame of the
machine, and between the brackets are left openings, permitting the meshing of the
gear-wheels B³ with the gear-teeth on the periphery of the loop-taker.
One side of a chanber e is entered into the loop-taker for containing the lower
thread of the machine when it is to be used to inake a lock-stitch, and the thread
carried on a spool, bobbin, or the like, is confined in the chamber by a plate e', of a
diameter slightly less than that of the opening in which it is to be placed leaving
an annular space around the plate for the passage of the lower thread. To prevent
too rapid feeding of the lower thread, during the rapid operation of the machine,
and to keep the same uniform at all times, we provide a bande of spring metal
having an opening at each end, for the passage of the thread. This band is to be
placed around the spool or bobbin, and by its resiliency acts as a tension on the
thread, thereby regulating its outlet, and the openings act frictionally. This
constitutes a tension device.
The feed of the machine is operated by the two cams F and F, placed on the
driving shaft of the machine. The cam F' bears upon the lower end of a projecting
arm of a bar, which is pivoted to a stud attached to the lower face of the
work-plate of the machine, and thus the bar is given an up and down motion as
the shaft revolves. The bar bears upon the underside of a bar carrying the
toothed portion f³, the serrated parts of which project through slots in the work-
plate of the machine. The bar, is pivoted to and carried by a bar, which is
attached to the work-plate by a screw passing through the openings To the
bar is attached a rod fresting in a sockets, and has its lower end bearing
upon the cam F³, so that as the cam F2 revolves, a back and forth motion is
imparted to the feed, simultaneously with the raising motion imparted from
cam F. A small spring f is interposed between the plate" and the work plate
of the machine, and aids in returning the feed to its lower position, after being
raised in feeding. To return the feed to its normal position horizontally after each
impulse, a helical spring 10 is attached to the end of the bar, and to a stud f"
on the work-plate. The sockets fa are attached one on each side of the machine,
and as the plate is attached to the work-plate by a screw which is easily
removed, the direction of feeding may quickly be changed by changing the bar f³,
and its appurtenances from one side of the plate to the other, according to the
direction in which it is desired to feed.
The machine herein described is capable of operation to form either a lock-stitch
or a chain-stitch.
The loop-taker being set to make one of these stitches, turning it around or over,
or reversing the motion of the driving-shaft, will set it to make the other; but
instead of reversing the loop-taker or reversing the driving, the feed may be
reversed. In the drawings, Figures 15 to 18, illustrate the operation of the loop-
taker and needle in forming a lock-stitch, when two sets of hooks are provided on
the loop-taker. In Figure 15, the needle-thread G is shown in the position
assumed by it after having been engaged by one of the hooks e, and carried a short
distance from the point of engagement, and the lower thread H is shown in the
position in which it is placed preparatory to, operating the machine, its free end
being placed between the work-plate I and the cloth J. Figure 16 represents the
position assumed by the loop of the needle-thread G after having been carried
approximately half-way around the loop-taker and spread out over the surface of
the same, and Figure 17, represents the positions of the two threads after the

page_text: second loop has been taken by the loop-taker, and the same is being formed from
the material of the loop, the thread having meantime been carried out through the
cloth, and the feed moved to advance the cloth the distance corresponding to the
length of the stitch; and Figure 18 represents the positions of the loops at
the point when the first loop is about to be drawn up into the cloth, and shed from 5
the retaining hook e, and the lower thread which has been inclosed by the loop is
about to be drawn up into the cloth to complete the stitches. In the formation of
a lock-stitch by the machine, as herein described, it will be observed that each
hook passes through the loop of the needle-thread formed by the advance of the
hook, before engaging the needle-thread to form a second loop, and in the
formation of a lock-stitch, the cloth is moved in the direction of the arrows, in
Figures 15, 16, 17 and 18. In the use of the loop-taker for the purpose of forming
the ordinary chain-stitch, the parts are arranged in such manner as to cause the
cloth to feed in the direction of the arrows in Figures 19, 20, 21, 22 and 23. In
Figure 19, the needle-thread G is shown as engaged by one of the hooks e³, and as
having been carried a short distance by the same. Figure 20 illustrates the
position of the loop after having been carried by the hook, a distance approximately
half-way around the loop-taker. Figure 21 shows the loop-taker turned a short
distance further in its revolution than is shown in Figure 20, the second hook e
just engaging the loop of the needle-thread, and prior to the passage of this second
hook through the first loop of the needle-thread. Figure 22 shows the positions
assumed by the loops after the loop-taker has been given about a quarter turn from
the position shown in Figure 21, and Figure 23 shows the first loop being drawn
up to inclose the thread of the second loop, and the needle in a position to descend
to allow a third loop to be taken by one of the hooks e³. To insure a complete and
accurate formation of the stitches, the machine is so arranged that when one of the
retaining hooks e, in the loop-taker with two peripheral openings, has reached a
position beneath the needle where the loop is just about to be shed, the motion of
the loop-taker is stopped until the needle comes down and rises leaving its loop, the
loop is taken by the hook e and the cloth is fed forward, thereby insuring the
perfect drawing up of each completed loop.
A great advantage of the present invention is, that the thread is taken up by
pulling down through the work; instead of pulling up and sewing through the
needle-eye, and, by the opposing hooks taking the loops in succession and passing
them around the body of the loop-taker, this compensates with each loop, so that a
very large loop may be formed, or in other words, the shuttle may be large, so
large as to take a large coininercial spool or any other large supply of thread.
In Figures 24, 25, and 26, is illustrated a form of loop-taker in which no stopping
is necessary. Here the periphery of the loop-taker has three indentations, arranged
equidistant from each other and forming three sets of hooks instead of two as
previously illustrated. In a machine embodying this form of loop-taker, the move-
ments of the needle-bar are so timed, that the loop-taker makes two thirds of a
revolution between each descent of the needle. The operation of this form of
loop-taker is the same as that previously described, except in the matter of the
order in which the loop-taking hooks operate. Where three sets of hooks are used,
the order of engagement is first, set No. 1, then set No. 3, then set No. 2, then set
No. 1, etc., each alternate set passing through the loop of the needle-thread carried
by the next previous set, without engagement. In the form having three sets of
hooks, it will be seen that a greater turning of the loop-taker is permitted between
each descent of the needle, and it is found that the time allowed is amply sufficient
to allow the accurate taking up of each completed loop between the operations of
the needle.
The use of the loop-taker provided with three sets of hooks is herein illustrated
in the formation of a lock-stitch, but it will be clear that by leaving out the lower
thread, and reversing the loop-taker, reversing the driving motion, or reversing the
feed, a chain-stitch may be formed.
While my correspondents have particularly herein described, the use of two and

page_text: three sets of hooks, on each loop-taker, they do not, of course, wish to limit them-
selves in this respect, as any desired number of sets of hooks may be employed, the
number depending upon the speed at which it is desired to operate the machine, the
character of stitches to be formed, etc.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion, as communicated to me by my foreign correspondents, and in what manner the
same is to be performed, I declare that what I claim is :-
1. A revoluble loop-taker provided with openings in its periphery forming
opposing hooks, the openings to serve to retain the needle-thread upon the loop-
taker for carriage of the loop of the needle-thread entirely around it, and being of
depth sufficient to keep the thread from contact with the driving-wheel, and the
opposing hooks to serve to take and take up the thread, this loop-taker to be
suitably supported and combined with a driving-device having peripheral engage-.
ment with it, so that positive and accurately-timed movement may be given to the
loop-taker, substantially as described.
2. A revoluble loop-taker, provided with openings in its periphery forming
opposing hooks, the openings to serve to retain the needle-thread upon the loop-
taker for carriage of the loop of the needle-thread entirely around it and being of
depth sufficient to keep the thread from contact with the driving-wheel, and the
opposing hooks to serve to take and take up the thread, the loop-taker having a
chamber for thread-supply, forming a shuttle to be suitably supported and combined
with a driving-device having peripheral engagement with it, substantially as
described.
3. The combination with a revoluble loop-taker, provided with openings in its
periphery forming opposing hooks, the openings to serve to retain the needle-
thread upon the loop-taker for carriage of the loop of the needle-thread entirely
around it and being of depth sufficient to keep the thread from contact with the
driving-wheel, and the opposing hooks to serve to take and take up the thread, of
driving-mechanism, and a reversible feeding device, whereby the fabric under
operation may be moved in either of two directions, to cause the loop-taker to make
a lock-stitch or a chain-stitch. substantially as described.
4. A sewing machine comprising a bar or plate, carrying serrated projecting
portions to protrude from the work-plate of the machine, the plate being capable of
an up and down movement, and of a longitudinal reciprocating movement, the plate
or bar being detachably connected to the bed-plate of the machine, substantially as
described.
5. A sewing machine comprising a driving-shaft, provided with a gear-wheel, an
independent shaft mounted adjacent to the main shaft and provided with a gear-
wheel meshing with that on the main shaft of the machine, a second gear-wheel
loosely mounted on the independent shaft and gearing with the loop-taker of the
machine, and two sliding pins, one mounted on the frame of the machine, and the
other carried by a wheel interposed between the gear-wheels on the independent
shaft, and revolving with the shaft, and cams whereby the pins are alternately
brought into contact with and drawn from the loose-gear-wheel, substantially as
described.
6. A tension device consisting of a spring band or collar provided with one or
more openings, substantially as described.
7. A revoluble loop-taker arranged adjacent to a reciprocating needle, carrying
a thread, the loop-taker being provided ou its periphery with three opposing hooks,
by which the succeeding loops of the needle-thread are engaged and the thread of
each preceding loop taken up, substantially as described.
Dated this 15th day of March 1892.
ALFRED J. BOULT,
Chartered Patent Agent..