Improvements in Adjustable Patterns for Drafting Garments.
Year: 1894

page_text: Date of Application, 13th Feb., 1894-Accepted, 14th Apr., 1894
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Adjustable Patterns for Drafting Garments.
A communication by HENRIETTA HORN, of the Village of Newark, in the County
of Wayne and State of New York, United States of America, Garment
⚫ Fitter.
I, WILLIAM PHILLIPS THOMPSON F.C.S., M.I.M.E., of The Agency for
Foreign Patent Solicitors, 6 Lord Street, Liverpool and 6, Bank Street
Manchester, both in the County of Lancaster and 323 High Holborn, in the County
of Middlesex, Civil Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and
in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This invention consists of a series of patterns for the front, back and sleeve of a
garment, with a-dart rule and adjustable parts for other pieces going to make up
the waist portion of a garment.
These patterns are constructed of thin metallic strips joined, various ones of
which are adapted to move upon adjacent ones for the purpose of adjusting the
patterns to the measurements taken of the form to be fitted.
In this invention, the aim is to produce a set of adjustable patterns for marking
the cloth, so constructed and arranged that the parts of each may be set to the
various measurements taken, and the cloth for the various pieces directly marked.
out by them without need of additional calculations and computations, which are
troublesome and consume time.
The strips constituting these patterns are usually made of No. 20 brass, the main
ones being preferably three-eighths of an inch in width. Various strips are
marked with scales of equal parts, having figures useful in adjusting the patterns.
Measurements are first taken of the form of the person to be fitted, with an
ordinary tape measure, and the patterns -subsequently set to these measurements,
suitable fasteners being provided for the moveable parts.
The pattern for the front and under arm portions of the garment consists of bars
for the front, bust, waist, back, arm's eye, shoulder and neck, all joined and adapted
to move upon each other. To these are added several auxiliary bars, for the upper
arm's eye, neck scale, under arm and shoulder support.
The pattern for the back consists of bars for the waist, rear side, rear arm's eye,
shoulder, neck and width of back with auxiliary bars for side form, neck scale and
neck support.
The pattern for the sleeve consists of a frame holding bars for the outer and the
inner seams, for the fulness of cloth over the shoulder, and for a portion of the
under arm's eye.
The dart rule consists of two similar curved bars, pivotted at one end, and a scale
bar joined by compound friction clasps.
Most of the bars forming these patterns are compound or in two parts, lapping
upon each other, and adapted to slide longitudinally for the purpose of expanding
or contracting the patterns according to the measurements taken. These overlapping
parts are mostly formed with corresponding longitudinal slots, with a rigid stud in
each part passing through the slot in the other, and a fastener for both.
To the back pattern is added a basque skirt pattern consisting of an adjustable
hip bar held by suspending bars provided with fasteners.
Some of the bars are held to contiguous bars by simple friction clasps, and others
by friction clasps and screw clamps, and by other means, all hereinafter fully
described and explained.

page_text: μα
Figure 2 is the back pattern with the adjustable hip bar attached.
Figure 3 is the slotted portion of the bust bar.
Figure 4 shows the manner of attaching the reversible under arm bar to the
front waist bar.
Figure 5 shows the manner of attaching the extension of the side form bar to the
hip bar.
Figure 6 shows the manner of attaching the side form bar to the back waist bar.
Figure 7 shows the lower component part of the bar supporting the shoulder bar,
with the friction clasp rigidly attached.
Figure 8 shows the left band portion of the waist bar with clasps and screw
clamp.
Figure 9 is an edge view of the lower portion of the reversible under arm bar,
seen as indicated by arrow in Figure 4.
Figure 10 shows the right hand part of the width of back bar, with the friction
clasp and screw clamp rigidly secured thereto.
Figure 11 is a vertical cross section of the bust bar and portion of the arm's
eye bar, on the dotted line in Figure 1, and viewed as indicated by the arrow
pointed thereon.
Figure 12 is a cross section of the back bar, on the horizontal dotte! line in
Figure 2, viewed as indicated by the arrow pointed on said line, showing the
manner of attaching the back neck bar to the back bar.
Figure 13 shows the pattern for the sleeve.
Figure 14 shows the manner of joining the adjacent ends of the bars
corresponding with the outer seam of the sleeve, and the friction clasps and screw
clamp.
Figure 15 is a view of the parts shown in Figure 14, seen as indicated by
arrow 1 in Figure 14.
.
Figure 16 is a view of some of the same parts, seen as indicated by arrow 2 in
Figure 14.
Figure 17 is an edge view of the right hand portion of the front waist bar,
showing the bar holding the reversible under arm bar.
Figure 18 shows the dart rule.
Figure 19 shows the scale bar of the dart rule, with the stationary friction
clasp.
Figure 20 is an edge view of the movable friction clasp, seen as indicated by
arrow in Figure 18, the scale bar being transversely sectioned on the dotted line at
the point of the arrow.
Figures 1 to 8 inclusive and Figure 13 are drawn to a scale of about one-fourth
full size.
Figure 10 is drawn to a scale two-thirds full size.
Figure 18 is drawn to a scale one-third full size; and the remaining figures are
drawn full size.
Many of the bars in the smallest figures are purposely exaggerated as to width
for the purpose of clearness.
THE FRONT AND UNDER ARM PATTERN.
1
The front bar A of the pattern for the front and the under arm piece, Figure 1,
is single and straight, and marked with a scale of equal parts.
The bust bar B is straight and formed of two overlapping parts a b, joined by a
friction clasp c at the end of the part a, and a friction clasp and screw clamp d at
the left end of the part b. The part b, Figure 3, is formed with two horizontal
slots, the lower one being to make way for the clasp c. The part below this slot is
equal in width with the part a. At its left hand end, the bar Bis vertically enlarged,
as shown in Figure 8, and formed with friction clasps i and screw clamp k to

page_text: secure it movably to the front bar. The bar B forms right angles wit
bar A.
Ե
The waist bar C is slightly curved and formed of two overlapping parts ef, of.
uniform width, both longitudinally slotted. A simple stud g, rigid in the part e,.
passes through the slot in the part and is forined with a head on the other side of
the part. A screw clamp h, for binding the parts together, has its threaded stem
rigid in the part fand passes through the slot in e. By these means, the parts ef
may be slid upon each other at will or held firmly in any relative position.
The bar C is connected movably with the front. bar A. by friction clasps / and
screw clamp m, the same as the bar B is joined to A.
The rear side bar D, which is slightly curved, is formed of two slotted parts no
connected by a stud p, and clamping screw r, like the bar C. The bars DC are
pivotally joined at s, and the bar D is rigidly joined to the bar B by fasteners, att.
The shoulder bar E is slightly curved and formed of two overlapping parts held
together by a stud and a clamping screw.
The curved neck bar F is pivotally joined, at u, with the shoulder bar and
connected with the front bar by a clamping screw v.
-
The arm's eye bar G-consists of three overlapping slotted parts; the first, .,
pivotally connected at y with the shoulder bar; the second, z, connected at a' with
the bust bar; the third, b', joined to the parts and by the usual clamping
screws c'c. The right upper portion of the part b is curved to form a continuation
of the arm's eye.
A slotted bar d', pivotally connected with the bar G and held to the bar B by a
screw clamp el, is sometimes used to stay the bar G.
The reversible under arm bar H is slightly curved and formed with two over-
lapping slotted parts connected by simple headed sliding studs fl", one rigid in
each part and passing through the slot in the other.
This bar is pivoted at its ends upon clips h' ', shown in Figures 4, 9, 11, 17.
The clip is held movably by a sliding stud k to an offset slotted bar I, secured
to the rear side of the waist bar. The clip is held by the screw clamp a¹, the
threaded stud of which passes through the slot in the part, and through the arm's
eye bar, and made rigid in the clip.
A short bar is joined rigidly to the front bar at right angles, and a bar m'
This bar m is composed
connects it with the pivot u to support the shoulder bar.
of two slotted parts held by the usual means, and it is provided with a sliding
clasp n', Figure 7, closed over the bar l'.
THE BACK PATTERN.
The back bar K of the back pattern, Figure 2, is a single piece, straight, and
marked with a scale.
The back waist bar L is a single slotted piece, slightly curved, and held to the
back bar by a screw clamp e², passing through the slot.
The rear side bar N is slightly curved and formed of two slotted overlapping
parts held by a stud and screw clamp.
The back curved arm's eye bar O consists of two slotted overlapping parts joined
by a screw clamp g'.
The back shoulder bar l' is slightly curved and formed of two overlapping
slotted parts held by a stud and screw clamp.
The back neck bar R is slightly curved and slotted, and held movably to the
back bar by a screw clamp m³, shown in Figure 12.
The width-of-back bar S is formed of two overlapping parts provided respectively
with a friction clasp o' and screw clamp pl.
The bars L and N are pivotally joined at ; the bars N S are pivotally joined
at s'; the bars NO are pivotally joined at t'; the bars O P are pivotally joined
at u; and the bars PR are pivotally joined at v'. The bars S K are joined by
friction clasps y.and screw clamp e', rigid with S, shown in Figure 10.
:

page_text: is a straight bar forming a continuation of the bar T, the two being joined, as
shown at 2, Figure 6. The lower end of Y is connected movably with an offset
slotted bar. Figure 5 rigid with the bar U at its rear side.
THE SLEEVE PATTERN.
The bars ZA' of the sleeve pattern correspond with the outer seam of the
sleeve, and the bars B'C' correspond with the inner seam of the sleeve, these bars
each being composed of overlapping slotted parts joined by the usual studs and
clamping screws.
The longitudinal bar D' of the frame is composed of three overlapping
parts k² 12 m². The part 2 is formed with friction clasps n² n² at its ends closing
over the parts m² respectively, the parts 12 m² being provided with clamping
screws o² ² bearing upon the part k². By these means the bar D' may be altered
as to length.
A simple elbow bar E' is made rigid with 2 at right angles therewith. A bar p²
rigid with D' holds rigidly an inclined simple bar " corresponding with the wrist
of the sleeve. Rigid with is an inclined bar which supports the movable
shoulder bar G'. The bar G¹ is simple and provided at its end with a friction
clasp closing over 2, the latter having a clamping screw t² at its end to hold G'.
The middle part, u² common to both bars B' C is rigid with har E' and the upper
end of B is rigid at v2 with an arm a rigid with ľ².
The bars ZA' are pivotally joined together and to a clasp y² adapted to slide
upon E as shown in Figures 14, 15, 16.
The bar A' is joined to F by a clasp 22, similar to y², and the bar Z is similarly
joined to G¹ by clasp n³.
This
A compound curved bar H' connects the extreme end of with G', the parts of
which are slotted and held together by the usual stud and clamping screw.
bar corresponds with the under arm sean of the sleeve.
The circular shoulder-puff bar I' consists of four parts, a³, b³, c³, d³. a³ is pivoted
at v² and provided with a clasp es, closed over 78, the latter having a clasp f³ closed
over a. is pivoted with Z in the same manner that the latter and A' are pivoted
together. The ends of 3 and 3 turned toward each other are slotted, and the
parte, lapping over both, is held by clamping screws g³ ³.
The dart rule, Figures 18, 19, 20, consists of two similar curved bars, h³ ³,
joined by a pivot at one end of each, and connected with a scale bar by means
of swivel clasps 13 13. The scale bar is marked with three scales, fully shown
in Figure 19. The clasps 13 are each composed of two parts joined by a pivot, one
part being closed over the scale bar and the other part closed over a bar h³, as
shown in Figure 20. The left clasp (viewing Figure 18) is made stationary with k³,
but the right clasp is adapted to slide along ³. By this means, the bars h³ ³ may
be more or less opened or closed to mark out a dart upon the cloth, of any width
desired. The application of the dart rule is indicated by curved dotted lines in
Figure 1.
Scales are marked on the various bars as follows:
:-
For front neck and front measure on A; for neck measure on ; for shoulder

page_text: measure on E and P; for arm's eye measure on x; for chest measure on a; for
bust measure on ; for vertical rear side measure on D and N; for front waist
measure on f; for rear waist measure on L; for rear arm's eye measure on 0; for
rear neck measure on a; for width-of-back measure on $; for length-of-back
measure on K; for hip measure on U; for length of sleeve from shoulder to elbow,
on for length of sleeve from elbow to wrist, on m²; for size of wrist, on F; for
breadth of telbow, on E' for upper arm's eye of sleeve, on G¹; for lower arm's
eye of sleeve, on ; and for width of dart, on ³. In most cases, the figures are
omitted from the scales to avoid confusion, adivision marks simply being shown
where the various scales are to be made on the bars. These scales may be divided.
into inches and fractions thereof, or into subdivisions of the meter, or according to
any other system to suit convenience, this not being essential to the invention.
The bars H in Figure 1, and T in Figure 2, and the circular shoulder-puff bar It
in Figure 13, are set without scale, according to fashion.
The point of Figure 1 corresponds with the neck of the garment immediately
in front; and the distance from said point to the part a on line with the under aro
is the "front neck measure," and the distance to e is the "front" measure. The
point of Figure 1 corresponds with 1, Figure 2; y and 'likewise corresponding.
The combined lengths of the bars GO complete the arm's eye. The combined
lengths of the bars B S correspond with the distance from middle front to middle
back measured horizontally under the arm. The combined lengths of the bars C, L
(to e) correspond with waist measure from front to back. The rear side from
bar D of the front pattern corresponds with the similar bar N of the back pattern..
The length of bar U from f' to g corresponds with width of basque.
Sliding the neck bar F along the clamping screw v, for the size of neck, causes.
the clip n to move along the bar l', upon which scale the neck measure is read..
When shifting F, the clamping screw in the bar m' is first loosened. Similarly, in
shifting the bar R laterally, the clasp d2 slides along the bar a², upon which scale.
back neck measure is read.
The bars R and S are shifted vertically along the back bar K, the first giving-
length of back from waist to neck, and the second length of back from waist to
bust line, both read upward from the waist bar L.
When the front pattern is set to measurements, it is laid upon the cloth, and to.
mark out the hexagonal front piece of the waist, a pencil is run around on the
outside of the bars A, F, E, G, H and C. For the quadrilateral under arm piece....
the reversible bar H is moved one inch towards the right, at the bottom, and
reversed, a pencil being then run around the outside of-said bar, the bar D, and so
much of the parts bf as is contained between the bars H and D.
For the back piece of the waist, the cloth is marked by running a pencil around
the outside of the bars K, R. P, O, T and L, and for the rear side piece, the pencil.
is run outside of the bars N, O, T; L..
For marking out a waist with a basque skirt, the pencil is carried down along
the bar X, thence along the bar U, thence upward along Y, in marking out the
back piece; and in marking out the rear side piece, the pencil is carried along
outside of the bars Y, U, V.
In marking the cloth for the under part of the sleeve, the pencil is carried along
the outside of the bars Z, A¹, F', C, B', H', G'; and for the upper part of the
sleeve, the pencil is carried over the circular shoulder-puff bar l' instead of
along H' and G¹.
I
Bust measurements always exceed waist measurements, the difference being the
taper of the waist, to which difference the dart rule is set, this being read upon the
scale bar. Should the difference be great, it is most desirable to divide it up into
two or three equal parts and set the dart rule accordingly, employing two or three.
darts instead of one. The scales numbered one, two and three, are used when one,
two or three darts are to be employed.
It will be understood that, by shifting the clasps z², y², n³, along the respective
bars F, E', G', the size of the sleeve at wrist, elbow and shoulder may be obtained,..

page_text: the joined ends of the bars % and A' moving together, and the joined ends of Z
and I moving together. Further, by shifting the part 3 upon a³, the height of
shoulder-puff is determined, this also being effected by shifting the part c³ upon
the contiguous parts b³ ³.
***
The shifting of the bar G₁ upon r² lengthens or shortens the: bar H', these
changes being read upon the scale².
Scales are sometimes marked on the bars d' and m³ of the front pattern, as
shown, but this is not essential.
A
A longitudinal slot may sometimes be formed in the right hand bar ³ of the
dart rule, Fig. 18, through which a threaded stud rigid with. the contiguous
clasp 13 may pass, provided with a thumb nut for holding the bars ³ to the bar k³,
if found convenient.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, as communicated to me by
my foreign correspondent, I declare that what I claim is :-
1. In adjustable patterns for drafting garments, an arm's eye bar G, formed of
curved, slotted, overlapping parts x,,, and fasteners c', c', therefor, a bust
bar B serving to hold the lower end of the arm's eye bar by means of a screw
clamp a', and a waist bar C having a horizontal slotted part 1, in combination with
a reversible, extensible, under arm bar H, held at its upper end by the screw
clamp a', and at its lower end by a stud alapted to slide laterally in said slotted
part I, substantially as shown and described.
2. In an adjustable pattern for drafting garments, an arm's eye bar G, formed of
curved, slotted, overlapping parts r,, b, and holders c¹ c¹ therefor, and a bust bar
formed of two overlapping parts a b, and holders de therefor, the part 6 formed
with two slots, one to make way for the holder c and the other to receive a screw
clamp a serving to hold the arm's eye bar to the bust bar, to said arm's eye bar
and bust bar being added a shoulder bar E, a neck bar F, a front bar A, waist
bar C, and rear side bar D, substantially as shown and described.
3. In adjustable patterns for drafting garments, a rear arm's eye bar (), formed
of curved, slotted, overlapping parts, and a screw clamp g' therefor, and a waist
bar L, provided with a parallel, soffset, slotted part 2, in combination with an
extensible rear side-form bar T, held at its upper end by the clamping screw g',
and at its lower end by a stud 2 adapted to slide laterally in said part z, to which
bars OTL are added a centre back bar K, a rear side-bar N, a shoulder bar P, a
neck bar R, and a width-of-back. bar S, substantially as shown and described.
4. In adjustable patterns for drafting garments, a back pattern consisting of the
bars K L N O P R S in combination with a basque skirt pattern consisting of an
adjustable, horizontal hip bar U, connected with said back pattern by the pendent
bars V Y X, substantially as shown and described.
5. An adjustable sleeve-pattern for drafting garments, composed of a frame
consisting of the bars D1,2 p², and arm, the bar D' being formed of three
overlapping parts k² m², with clasps and clamping screws to hold them together,
a movable shoulder bar G', held by the bar, an elbow bar E', rigid with the
part, and a wrist bar F¹ rigid with the bar ², in combination with extensible
outer and inner seam bars Z A' and B' C', said bars B C' being stationary with
the frame, and the bars % A¹ being movable along the bars G' E' F', and the
extensible under-arm-seam bar H' connecting the bar G¹ with the frame, and a
shoulder-puff bar I over the sboulder bar Ğ¹, the bars G¹ E' F¹ m² (ª r² being
marked with scales, substantially as shown and described.
Dated this 12th day of February 1894.