Improvements in Sewing Machines for making Hat Linings.
Year: 1898

page_text: PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Sewing Machines for making Hat Linings.
I, FREDERICK WILLIAM CHEETHAM, of Norbury House, Hyde, in the County of
Chester, Hat Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be
as follows.-
-
My invention relates to improvements in sewing machines for making hat
linings and consists first in an improved arrangement of gearing for driving the
pleating motion for the side linings, and secondly, in an improved mode of holding
the tip or central portion of the lining on the turntable
In carrying the first part of my invention into effect I employ a houzontal peg
wheel and worm wheel combined and drive this combined wheel by a woim on
the driving shaft of the sewing machine The horizontal wheel has any con-
venient number of pegs fixed vertically and adjustably in its horizontal face and
as the wheel is rotated each of these pegs in turn comes in contact with and
actuates a cam or tappet fixed on the spring shaft which carries the pleating blade
by which the side lining of the hat is fed up to the presser foot and so formed into
a pleat prior to being sewn on to the tip or central portion mounted upon the
turntable The number and size of the pleats can be determined by varying
the number and position of the vertical pegs carried by the horizontal wheel
In carrying the second part of my invention into effect I mount the tip of central
portion of the hat lining upon a paper or other suitable backing or foundation
which 18 slotted at mid-width or otherwise suitably prepared to receive one half of
the clamping plate which is pivoted at mid-width to the turntable and is clamped
over the paper backing by a wedge or other clamping device.
By this device the tip or central portion of the lining is held upon the turntable,
ready for the side lining to be attached to it, without the use of pins and thus
I avoid the unsightly holes hitherto made in the tip by the pins ordinarily en-
played to secure it to corks in the turntable
Tinted the Rth day of June 1908
HB BARLOW & GILLETT,
Agents for Applicant
Improvements in Sewing Machines for making Hat Linings.
I, FREDERICK William Cheetham, of Norbury House, Hyde, in the County of
Chester, Hat Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and
[Price 8d.]

page_text: in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascer-
tained in and by the following statement
My invention relates to improvements in sewing machines for making hat
linings and consists first in an improved arrangement of gearing for driving the
pleating motion for the side hnings, and secondly, in an improved mode of holding
the tap or central portion of the lining on the turntable
In the accompanying two sheets of drawings-
Figure 1 is a side elevation and Figure 2 a plan view (the latter partly in sec-
tion) of a sewing machine embodying my improvements, Figure 3 is an end view
of the presser foot and the pleating blade, Figure 4 is an end elevation of the
turntable, Figure 5 is a cross section of the top or central portion of the hat
lining and its backing, Figure 6 is a similar view illustrating the form assumed
by the parts when the tip is clamped on the turntable and Figure 7 is a plan of
the slotted backing for the tip
In these views, 1 denotes the bedplate and frame of the machine, 2 the cloth
plate or feed table, 3 the stitch regulator, preferably one with a graduated indi-
cator showing the number of stitches per inch 4 the pleating blade, o the spring
shaft, 6 the driving shaft, the driving pulley fixed thereon, 8 the reciprocating
needle al'm, 9 the adjustable turntable pivoted on the swivel arm. 10, and 11 the
guide on which the swivel arm with the turntable can be traversed.
In carrying the first part of my invention into effect I fix a horizontal peg
wheel 12 and worm wheel 13 on a stud supported and free to rotate in a bearing
in the frame 1 and I drive the combined wheels 12 and 13 by a worm 14 on the
driving shaft 6 The horizontal wheel 12 has any convenient number of pegs 15
screwed or otherwise fixed vertically and adjustably in its horizontal face and as
the wheel 12 is rotated each of these pegs 15 in turn comes in contact with and
actuates a tappet 16 fixed adjustably on the spring shaft 5, which is therefore
reciprocated axially as many times during each rotation of the wheel 12 as there
are pegs 15 on the said wheel. Each time the spring shaft 5 is actuated the
pleating blade 4 feeds the side lining 17 up to the presser foot 18 in the usual way
and so forms a pleat in the side lining prior to its being sewn on to the tip or
central portion 19 of the hat lining which is carried by the turntable 9
number and size of the pleats can be determined by varying the number and
position of the vertical pegs 15 carried by the horizontal wheel 12, and by ad-
justing the number of the stitches per inch by means of the stitch regulator 3.
The
In carrying the second part of my invention into effect I mount the tip o1
central portion 19 of the hat lining upon a backing or foundation 20 of paper or
other suitable material which is alotted at midwidth (see 21 Fig 7), to receive
one half or other part of the clamping plate 22, which is pivoted at 23 at mid-
width to the turntable 9 and is clamped over the paper backing 20 by a pivoted
wedge 24 moved by a handle 25 or other clamping device; or instead of the half
plate 22 I might employ fingers entering holes formed to receive them in the
backing. By this means the tip or central portion 19 of the lining 18 held upon
the turntable 9, ready for the side lining 17 to be attached to it, without the use
of pins as now customary, and thus I avoid the unsightly holes hitherto made in
the tio by the pins ordinanly employed to secure it to corks in the turntable
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is
-
In a machine for sewing hat linings,--
1 The arrangement, use and application of a horizontal wheel provided with
any convenient number of pegs fixed vertically and adjustably in its horizontal
face, said peg wheel being driven preferably by worm gearing from the driving
shaft, and arranged so that during its rotation each peg in turn actuates the
spring shaft and its pleating blade by which the side lining is fed and pleated
substantially as herein set forth.

page_text: 2 The arrangement, use and application of a clamping plate pivoted at mid-
width to the turntable and adapted to receive and secure by a clamping device
the slotted backing attached to the tip of the hat lining substantially as herein
set forth.
3. The general combination and arrangement of parts embodying my improve-
ments substantially as herein descubed and as illustrated by the accompanying
drawings.
HB BARLOW & GILLETT,
Agents for Applicant,
17, St. Ann's Square, Manchester.