Improvements in the Manufacture of Traverse. Warp Fabrics for making Gloves and for other uses.
Year: 1889

page_text: Date of Application, 11th Oct., 1889
Complete Specification Left, 10th July, 1890-Accepted, 16th Aug., 1890
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Traverse. Warp Fabrics for
making Gloves and for other uses.
I, TOM WALTER FLETCHER of Wood Street, Ilkeston in the County of Derby,
Textile Fabric Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be
as follows:-
This Invention has for its object improvements in the manufacture of traverse
warp fabrics for making gloves and for other uses.
In order to produce a traverse warp fabric which is thickened at intervals
I provide in the traverse warp machine a guide bar in addition to the two ordinary
point bars and the eyes of the guides in this guide bar are threaded with an
additional warp.
In the parts where the fabric is to be thickened this guide bar
moves to and fro the distance from one needle to another and the points taking
the threads lap them on the needles, each thread on one needle only. Or some-
times I arrange for each thread of the guide bar to be lapped on two needles over
one and under the next and so to and fro. In the parts in which the fabric is
not required to be thickened the guide bar remains stationary so that the threads
which it carries are not worked into the fabric but remain floated on the surface. Or
by imparting to the guide bar an appropriate motion I cause the threads which it
carries to be buried in the fabric without being lapped upon the needles.
Dated this 11th day of October 1889.
CARPMAEL & Co.,
Agents.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Traverse Warp Fabrics for
making Gloves and for other uses.
I, TOM WALTER FLETCHER, of Wood Street, Ilkeston, in the County of Derby,
Textile Fabric Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in
what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement :-
This invention has for its object improvements in the manufacture of traverse warp
fabrics for making gloves and for other uses.
In order to produce a traverse warp fabric which is thickened at intervals I provide
in the traverse warp machine a guide bar in addition to the two ordinary point bars
and the eyes of the guides in this guide bar are threaded with an additional warp. In
the parts where the fabric is to be thickened this guide bar moves to and fro the
distance from one needle to another and the points taking the threads lap them
on the needles, each thread on one needle only. In the parts in which the fabric is
not required to be thickened the guide bar remains stationary or is not so moved as
to cause the threads which it carries to be worked into the fabric but these remain
floated on the surface.
In order that my said invention may be fully understood and readily carried into
effect I will proceed to describe the drawings hereunto annexed.

page_text: a is the needle bar and a¹ is one of a long row of bearded needles which it carries.
b is the work upon the needles. c² c² are the traverse warp threads; after passing the
guide rails d' and d² they descend to a series of spools on which they are wound.
These spools travel parallel to the needle bar, from end to end of the machine and
then return in the opposite direction. The spools on which the threads in the row c¹
are wound travel in one direction and those which carry the threads in the row c²
travel in the opposite direction. On arriving at the end of the machine each spool is
transferred from one row to the other.
e is the traverse point bar. is the still bar, g is the crutch bar, hh are the
sinkers. In Figure 1 the points of the traverse bar are just rising between the
threads in the row c¹ and when they have reached the position shown in Figure
the bar traverses endwise the space of two needles taking the lower row of threads
with it. Then the points rise further to the position shown in Figure 3 and the bar
again traverses end wise this time the space of one needle and in the opposite direction.
The threads of the rows c' and c² will now as will be seen be crossed in the space
between the points of the traverse bar and the points of the still bar, one set of
threads angling in one direction and the other in the contrary direction, over one
space either way. The still bar then descends and its points pass out of the threads
and immediately the bar rises again with its points close up against the points of
the traverse bar as seen in Figure 4 and thereby the crossing of the threads just
produced is passed on towards the needles. When the still bar has completed its
upward movement the traverse bar descends and returns to its original position. The
parts then are again in the position shown in Figure 1. In this figure the points
carried by the crutch bar are seen rising amongst the threads to carry the crossings
of the threads forward to the needles. The crutch bar assumes successively the
positions shown in Figures 2, 3 and 4 and in the latter figure the position of the
crutch bar is such that the crossings of the threads are well to the rear of the beards
of the needles; the thread presser i has also descended upon the threads.
crutch bar now commences to return and the sinkers h follow it and so the crossings
of the threads are carried beneath the beards of the needles. Next the beards of
the needles are pressed by a presser blade which is not shown in the drawings.
The loops of the work are carried over the beards whilst they are pressed by the
continued advance of the sinkers until when the sinkers arrive at the position seen
in Figure 1 the old loops of the work are thrown off from the needles and the
new loops are retained beneath their beards. In Figures 2 and 3 the sinkers are
seen descending with their nibs in front of the work and in Figure 4 the sinkers
have receded carrying the work back and by means of their nibs they keep the
crossings of the threads away from the work, so that the crossings may presently
pass beneath the beards of the needles and the loops of the work may pass over them.
All the movements above described are such as are usual in traverse warp machines ;
the parts which in accordance with my Invention I add to the machine are the warp
beam and the guide bar l.
The
The warp beam k has warp threads k' wound upon it one for each needle and these
threads are passed through the eyes of the guides / carried by the guide bar. There
is a guide for each needle and they are cast in leads in the same way as the needles
and the points. The guide bar is caused to traverse like the traverse point bar; it
slides end wise in brackets fixed to the needle bar. The traverse point bar as above
explained makes for every course of the work two movements end wise whilst amongst
the threads and a return movement when out of the threads; but the guide bar moves
once only for each course; it moves in one direction for one course and in the
opposite direction for the next course, and the crutch points enter amongst the
threads so that the thread which is to the right of its point in one motion is to
the left of it in the next motion. The result is that each thread k¹ works on one needle
only and is made to cross to and fro over its stem.
It is not my intention however to thicken the whole of the fabric by means of
warp threads worked as described but only at intervals as may be required. Thus for
a glove fabric I weave in the manner above described, a length of fabric measuring

page_text: say four and a half inches whilst the fabric is on the machine and then I throw out of
gear the mechanism (which is of the ordinary sort) by which the movement of the
guide bar is produced so that the threads may stand still in the machine and not be
worked into the fabric but lie loosely on its face and so I work for a length of say
thirty one and a half inches; after which I recommence working as before and
produce another thickened band of fabric and so on. Afterwards I cut away the loose
threads from the face of the work.
In place of allowing the guide bar 7 to remain stationary when the threads which it
carries are not to be worked into the fabric, a movement may be imparted to it as
follows: when the parts are in the position shown by Figure 1 the bar 1 may fall the
space of several needles so as to angle the threads before the nibs of the sinkers enter
amongst them and rise again when the parts are in the position shown by Figure 2 or
before the points on the crutch bar enter amongst the threads k¹. By this precaution
I prevent the nibs of the sinkers entering on the wrong side of some of the threads k¹
which might otherwise occur when the threads are slack from having stood for some
time without being worked into the fabric. When the fabric is cut up into gloves the
thickened bands form the finger tips for two sets of gloves, the band being divided
along the middle.
The band of thin fabric is similarly divided and forms the
remainder of the gloves. The dimensions of the alternate bands of thick and thin
fabric will of course be varied according to circumstances.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said Inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. A traverse warp fabric substantially as described thickened at intervals by
threads which link only with the traverse threads but do not interlink.
2. A traverse warp machine substantially as described provided with guides in
addition to the ordinary points and other operative parts such guides carrying an
additional warp which does not traverse and which is lapped upon the needles to
thicken the fabric.
Dated this 9th day of July 1890.