CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MAEU- PACTURE OF HATS, AND IN THE MACHINERY OR APPARATUS CONNECTED WITH SUCH OR SIMILAR MANUFACTURE
Year: 1844

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, DAVID
CHEETHAM, of Rochdale, in the County of Lancaster, Cotton Spinner, and
EDWARD BRIGGS, of the same place, Hat Manufacturer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Royal Letters Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date
at Westminster, the Sixth day of June, in the seventh year of Her reign, and
in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and forty-four, did, for
Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto us, the said David
Cheetham and Edward Briggs, Her especial licence, full power, sole privilege
and authority, that we, the said David Cheetham and Edward Briggs, our
executors, administrators, and assigns, and such others as we, the said David
Cheetham and Edward Briggs, our executors, administrators, or assigns,
should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all
times during the term of years therein expressed, should and lawfully might
make, use, exercise, and vend, within England and Wales and the Town of
Berwick-upon-Tweed, our Invention of "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MAEU-
PACTURE OF HATS, AND IN THE MACHINERY OR APPARATUS CONNECTED WITH SUCH OR
SIMILAR MANUFACTURE;" in which said Letters Patent is contained a proviso
that we, the said David Cheetham and Edward Briggs, shall cause a parti-
cular description of the nature of our said Invention, and in what manner the

page_text: same is to be performed, to be enrolled in Her Majesty's High Court of
Chancery within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of
the said in part recited Letters Patent, as in and by the same, reference being
thereunto had, will more fully and at large appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, we, the said
David Cheetham and Edward Briggs, do hereby declare that the nature of
our said Invention, and the manner in which the same is to be performed,
is particularly described and ascertained in and by the Drawings hereto
annexed, and the following explanation thereof (that is to say):-
These Improvements in the Manufacture of Hats, and in the Machinery or
Apparatus connected with such or similar Manufacture, apply, firstly, to the
machinery employed for "setting up" the hat bodies upon blocks or moulds,
and consist of a pair of cones resting upon and revolving by friction of contact
with two other pairs of cones placed beneath, which cones are driven with
suitable gearing, and are mounted in a carriage which is made to traverse
backwards and forwards by means of a mangle rack and pinion, the speed of
the traverse being regulated by a pair of cone pullies, the strap passing around
which is acted upon by a heart wheel or cam.
"
The second part of these improvements applies to the "basoning" or
hardening of the hat bodies, after they have come from the "setting up
apparatus before alluded to, and consists of a table upon which the bodies
(having previously been steamed) are laid, upon them a block of wood suitably
weighted is placed, a short quick reciprocating motion is given to the block,
the friction caused by which, combined with the elastic weighting, gives the
requisite hardness to the bodies, which are then rolled up in a cylindrical form
and taken to the "planking" or felting apparatus.
The third feature in these improvements relates to, the "planking" or felting
apparatus, which is composed of a cistern or hollow vessel containing an acid
solution (kept heated by means of steam, or otherwise), a little below the
surface of which solution is a perforated board or plank, upon which the hat
bodies, rolled up as before prepared, are placed; light blocks are then lowered
upon them, which, having a short horizontal reciprocating traverse imparted to
them, roll the bodies backwards, and forwards upon the perforated board
before mentioned, by which process, assisted by the action of the heated acid.
solution, the fibres of the wool or other material will be intimately combined
or felted together. The hat bodies are then placed upon a conical block, and
taken to a singeing machine.
The fourth part of this Invention applies to machinery for singeing the
bodies. The block and body are placed upon a spindle, which is caused to

page_text: revolve slowly; a flame of gas is then made to impinge upon the outer surface
of the body for the purpose of singeing off any loose or extraneous filaments
which may protrude from the felt; the bodies are then stiffened, and after
being dried are ready for "ruffing" or "napping."
The fifth part of these improvements applies to the machinery employed for
the purpose of forming the fur or nap into a web or sheet previous to applying
it to the body or foundation. In this machine the fur or nap is placed upon a
travelling feed cloth, which conducts it between two rollers into a chamber,
at the feeding end of which is a rotary beater for the purpose of beating up
the fur. At the other end of the same chamber is a cylinder covered with fine
wire cloth, which is connected by a flue to a fan above; this fan is caused to
revolve and draw the air from the chamber through the wire cylinder, which will
lay the fur upon it in a sheet; it is then delivered on to a table which traverses.
slowly backwards and forwards for the purpose of laying the web or sheet in
even folds throughout. The sheet of fur is then taken to the hardening
machine.
The sixth part of these improvements applies to a hardening machine, for
the purpose of giving density or tenacity to the fur. The sheet of fur is laid
upon a table which is covered with oil cloth, upon which a board (the under
side of which is also covered with oil cloth) is laid; this board has a recipro
cating motion given to it, similar to that described with reference to the
machine for hardening. the bodies, which will give the requisite degree of
hardness and solidity to the fur. The sheet of fur or nap is then in a state fit
for "ruffing" or napping" the bodies.
The seventh part of these improvements applies to machinery for raising the
pile of the plush used for covering silk hats, and consists chiefly in the novel
application of a band or belt, with pins fixed therein, or other holding or
distending apparatus, to the selvages of the plush, for the purpose of keeping
the plush distended whilst a band of wire cards is passing transversely over it
for raising the pile.
The eighth and last part of these improvements applies to the sponging,
"luring," brushing, and ironing the plush. These four operations are performed
in one machine, as follows:-The plush is caused to pass under a perforated
block having sponge affixed to its under side, upon which water is constantly
dropping from a cistern or tank above; it is then conducted under two rollers,
one covered with velvet or plush for the purpose of "luring," and the other
with bristles for brushing the plush; it is afterwards passed between a heated
cylinder and a hollow semicircular plate of metal, for the purpose of being

page_text: ironed or finished; or these several operations may be performed separately,
if preferred.
Having now described the nature and object of this Invention, we will
proceed to shew the manner in which the same is to be performed, which will
be better understood by reference to the three Sheets of Drawings accom-
panying these Presents, similar letters being placed upon corresponding parts
of the apparatus in all the Figures.
The first of these improvements is exhibited in Sheet 1, in which Fig. 1 is
a plan view of a machine for "setting up" hat bodies, Fig. 2 an elevation,
and Fig. 3 a section of the same taken across the line A, B, in Fig. 2. a, a,
are the blocks or moulds upon which the hat bodies are to be formed, which
are made of wood covered with cloth, and rest upon the four cones b, b, b, b,
which are mounted obliquely in the carriage c, c. Upon the driving shaft d, d,
is fixed a mitre wheel e, engaged with a mitre wheelf upon the longitudinal shaft
g; at the other end of this shaft is a mitre wheel h, taking into another mitre
wheel i on the cross shaft ; upon each end of this shaft is a bevel wheel ?,
which, by gearing with the bevil wheels m, m, fixed to the base of each of the
cones b, b, cause the said cones to revolve, the cones a, a, which bear upon them
revolving by friction of contact, by which means the sliver proceeding from
the carding engine as usual is wound upon the two blocks or cones, thus
forming two distinct hat bodies; the bases of the cones being further apart at
the bottom than at the top, causes the sliver to separate at each revolution of
the cones. Upon the driving shaft d there is also another bevil wheel o,
taking into a similar wheel p upon the shaft which carries the cone pulley ;
this pulley is connected by a strap to another cone pulley r, mounted upon a
shaft s, at the other end of which is a mangle pinion t, taking into a mangle
rack u fixed to the side of the carriage c, c, which will cause the carriage to
traverse slowly to and fro the length of the mangle rack; this is.for the purpose
of crossing the fibres of wool, thus causing them to adhere more firmly together
when felted. As in making bodies for hats it is desirable to lay the wool or
other fibrous material thinner towards the apex of the cone than at the base,
we have attached a varying motion to the machine, the operation of which is
as follows: Upon the end of the driving shaft d is a bevil pinion v, taking
into a bevil wheel w, upon which the heart wheel or cam is fixed, which
cam a acts against a friction roller y, fixed to the strap guide, which, by
shifting the strap on to the larger or smaller circumference of the cone pulley
r, will diminish or increase the speed of the traverse of the carriage c, c, and
thus lay the wood upon the block thinner. towards its apex, and vice versa.

page_text: The second part of these improvements is shewn in Sheet 2 of the
Drawings, Fig. 1 being a plan, and Fig. 2 an elevation of the "basoning" or
hardening machine. a, a, is. the main framing or standards of the machine,
and b, b, the bed or table; upon this bed b, b the hat bodies to be "basoned
(being previously steamed and folded up in cloths) are placed, the wooden
block c, which is fixed to one end of a lever (the other end of which has a
balance weight attached to it), is then lowered and weighted in the following
manner-Upon the block c are fixed two brackets or bridges d, d, over which
a strap e passes, and to one of which it is fastened; the other end of the strap is
secured by the link f, which has a screw and nuts at the end for the purpose of
tightening the strap. Upon the strap e is placed the plate g, having holes or
recesses in which the end of the shaft h rests; on the other end of the shaft h a
screw is cut, working in a nut i, fixed to the lever j, which is joined to the
framing above. The screw on the shaft h being turned by the hand wheel k
will give the requisite elastic pressure to the block c. This block c has a quick
horizontal reciprocating motion given to it by the following means:-Upon each
end of the driving shaft is keyed a disc l, on the face of which, but excentric
with the driving shaft, is a pin m, this pin is connected to the bar n (to which
the block c is fixed) by links o, o, and thus the requisite friction is given to the
block c, for the purpose of hardening or basoning" the bodies.
I have attached to this machine a contrivance for the purpose of stopping the
machine at any given time without the aid of the workman. Upon the driving
shaft is a worm p, working into a worm wheel upon the shaft q, on the
other end of the shaft 9 is a worm r, working in a worm wheels; upon
this wheel s is a pin which releases the bart from a notch, and allows a
balance weight, which is fixed to one end of it, to draw it in the direction of
the arrow, and thus shift the strap from the fast pulley into the loose
pulley .
In Sheet 1, Figure 5 represents a diagram, showing a method of hardening
or basoning the hat bodies, without removing them from the cones or blocks
upon which they are formed. a, a, is a framing supporting a hollow inverted
cone b, lined with india rubber or other suitable elastic medium; the block c,
having the bat body upon it (shewn detached), is placed inside the cone 6, and
a circular reciprocating motion communicated to it by the following means:-
Upon the driving shaft d are two excentries or cranks e and f, placed at right
angles to each other, and connected to the block c by means of the links gand h,
one of these links being fixed on either side of the centre of the block c, which
contrivance on the revolution of the driving shaft will cause the block c to
turn a small portion of a circle, first in one direction and then in the other,

page_text: which motion, combined with the elastic medium before mentioned, will give
the required degree of hardness to the felt.
a, a,
Thirdly, the planking machine.-This is also. exhibited in Sheet 2 of the
Drawings, Fig. 3 being a plan, and Fig. 4 a sectional view, of the same.
is the cistern or vessel which contains the acid solution usually employed for
such purposes, which is kept heated by a steam pipe b, b, or otherwise. c, c, is
a perforated board, upon which the bodies to be " planked" or felted (after
being rolled up as before described) are laid, light blocks d, d, d, d, are then
lowered upon them, and a horizontal reciprocating motion imparted to them by
the following means --Upon the end of the driving shaft e is a crank f, con-
nected to the bar g by the links h; the upright rods i, i, to which blocks d, d,
are attached, pass through holes in the bar g, and receive their motion
from it, being guided at the top by working in a shot in the bar k, k. 1, 1, 1, 1,
are cords and pullics for the purpose of raising the blocks d, d, d, d, when
required.
The same apparatus may be employed in that part of the process of
"napping" "ruffing" called scalding and rolling, which is for the purpose
of causing the nap to adhere more firmly to the body of the hat.
Fourthly, the singeing machine.-In Sheet 1, Fig. 4 shews an elevation of
this apparatus.
a, a, is the framing of the machine; and b, b, the driving
shaft. The bodies to be singed are brought (either before or after having
been proofed and stiffened) and placed upon the block c mounted upon the
spindle d, which is caused to revolve by the bevil wheel d being acted upon by
the pinion on the driving shaft b. 9, 9, is a tube for conveying the gas for
singeing, having a narrow slit or opening h extending from the apex to the base
of the cone c; opposite to this opening his another opening i, in the exhaust-
ing chamber k; this chamber is provided with a fan 1, for the purpose of draw-
ing the flame from the pipe g through the opening i in the chamber, the flame
will thus impinge upon the surface of the revolving hat body in the space
between the two openings h and i, and singe off any loose fibres that might
tend to injure the appearance of the hat, by rising with the nap when the hat
is finished.
Fifthly, the machine for forming the nap or fur into a sheet, previous
to its being applied for the purpose of "roughing" or napping the body.-
This machine is exhibited in Sheet 3, Fig. 1 being a side elevation, Fig. 2 and
end view shewn partly in section, and Fig. 3 a longitudinal sectional view
of the same. The fur or nap is spread by hand upon the travelling feeding
cloth a, a, a, which conducts it between the pair of feeding rollers b, b, to tho
chamber c, c; at the feeding end of this chamber is a beater d, which is for

page_text: the
purpose of beating up the fur, in place of the ordinary process of " blow-
ing" by hand. At the other end of this chamber is a cylinder c, covered with
wire cloth, so fine as not to allow the fur to pass through; this cylinder is
connected to the fan f by the flue g. The fan is caused to revolve at a high
velocity, and is for the purpose of creating a strong draft or current of air
through the chamber c and cylinder e, in the direction of the arrow, which has
the effect of laying the fur in a sheet upon the surface of the wire cylinder e.
There is an opening h in the chamber c, above the wire cylinder, which, by
admitting air, causes the fur to be distributed more evenly over the surface,
of the cylinder e, the revolution of which conducts it through the delivering
rollers i, i, on to the table k, k. This table is made to traverse backwards and
forwards (for the purpose of laying the cloth in even folds) by means of a
mangle wheel and pinion 1, 1, to which is fixed a pulley m, the cord n passing
round which is fixed at either end to the table k, which is supported and guided
in its traverse by the rollers o, 0, 0, 0.
This arrangement of machinery may also be beneficially employed for the pur-
pose of delivering the fur direct upon the cones, as shewn and described with
reference to Figs. 1 and 2, in Sheet 1, for the purpose of making stuff bodies
and mixed bodies.
Sixthly, the apparatus for hardening the sheet of fur produced by the last-
described machine.-This is shewn in Sheet 3 of the Drawings, Fig. 4 being an
elevation, and Fig. 5 a section of the same. The sheet of fur to be hardened
is laid upon the bottom or bed board a, a, the surface of which is covered with
oil cloth, and the top board b, b, (the under side of which is also covered with
oil cloth) is placed over it; these boards are hinged together in such a
way as to keep the top board in its place, and still to allow it a little play
in a longitudinal direction. The board is connected by the link c to
the excentric d, which is driven by the cross strap e passing around a pulley f
on the end of its shaft. It will be evident that by this means a motion will be
imparted to the board c, c, similar to that described with reference to the
"basoning" and "
planking machines, which will have the effect of giving
the requisite degree of hardness and solidity to the sheet of fur. 9, 9, 9, g, are
pullies, cords, and counterbalance weights, for the purpose of raising the board c
when necessary.
Seventhly, the machinery for raising the pile of the plush used for covering
silk hats.--In Sheet 2 of the Drawings, Fig. 5 is a plain view, and Fig. 6 a
section, of a machine designed this purpose. , a, a, a, is the framing of
the machine; b, the driving pulley; and c, the driving shaft. Upon this

page_text: shaft is keyed a mitre wheel d, taking into a corresponding wheel e on one of
the longitudinal shafts f, f. On these shafts f, f, are two drums 9, 9, around
which a strap or belt h passes; this strap is furnished with blocks of wood i,
covered with cards, for the purpose of raising the pile as they pass over the
cloth in the direction of the arrow. k, k, k, k, are tension rods and rollers,
over and under which the cloth passes, for the purpose of keeping it properly
distended while the pile is being raised. It is evident that the cards, passing
transversely over the cloth in the direction of the arrow, would have a tendency
to pull or drag the cloth in the same direction; but in order to obviate this
we employ two drums or pulleys 1, 1, turning loose on studs fixed to the framing,
around which an endless tentering belt or band passes. This band is furnished
with small plates of metal m, m, covered with pins or points which project
through the cloth and keep it in a proper state of tension (acting as revolving
or endless "temples," however constructed) while the pile is being raised.
The cloth is drawn longitudinally through the machine by means of the
roller n being driven by the train of spur wheels o, 0, 0, 0.
And lastly, the machine for performing the several operations of spongeing,
brushing, "luring," and "ironing."-In Sheet 2, Fig. 7 is a diagram shewing
an arrangement of machinery adapted for these purposes. a, a, is the framing,
and b, b, the table over which the plush to be finished passes; c, c, is a per-
forated block of wood having sponge affixed to its under side; d is a cistern
or tank containing water, which is allowed to flow down the pipe e on to the
block c, c, which will damp the surface of the plush as it passes under it; the
plush is then conducted under the brush f and roller g, covered with plush
or velvet) between the heated cylinder and the semicircular disk or trough
i. The cylinder h (as well as the brush f and roller g) is caused to revolvo
by suitable gearing, which will thus perform the operations of sponging,
brushing, "luring," and " ironing."
Although the brushing, "luring, and " ironing cylinders are shewn in
the Drawing at right angles to the line of cloth, they may be placed at
any other angle, so as to lay the pile in a diagonal direction, if thought
preferable.
In witness whereof, we, the said David Cheetham and Edward Briggs,
have hereunto set our hands and seals; this Fifth day of December,
in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and forty-four.

page_text: AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the same Fifth day of December, in
the year above mentioned, the aforesaid David Cheetham and Edward Briggs
came before our Lady the Queen in Her Chancery, and acknowledged the
Specification aforesaid, and all and every thing therein contained, in form
above written. And also the Specification aforesaid was stamped according
to the tenor of the Statute in that case made and provided.