Improvements in Knitted Ribbed Fabrics, and in the Means and Appliances used in the Production of same.
Year: 1889

page_text: Date of Application, 5th Dec., 1889
Complete Specification Left, 5th July, 1890-Accepted, 18th Oct., 1890
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Knitted Ribbed Fabrics, and in the Means and
Appliances used in the Production of same.
We, ANDREW ELWORTHY ADAMS, WILLIAM ALFRED SHEFFIELD and JOHN HALLAM
of Adelaide Buildings, Albion Street, Leicester in the County of Leicester, Hosiery
Manufacturers, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to improvements in knitted ribbed fabrics, and in the means
and appliances used in the production of same applicable to all plain and fancy
articles of hosiery whether made in circular knitting machines, or straight frames
producing the various articles of underwear, or in parallel bar knitting machines
manufacturing over jackets, vests and the like.
By the means hereinafter described hosiery ribbed goods, or plain are thickened, in
any portion of the leg or ankle of stockings, the seat of pantaloons, under the arm
pits of shirts, or the front and back of under shirts or cardigan jackets, vests and
the like.
Or any article of hosiery can be wholly made of the thickened ribbed fabric if
desirable, such thickened fabric being made; not by tuck stitches, multiplicity of
loops, or splicing but by knitting a double fabric that is nearly double the thickness
of the ordinary knitted ribbed hosiery fabric without lengthening such parts of the
fabric to which it is applied-for example, if a portion of the fabric is thickened or
strengthened by our method, the remaining part of ordinary knitting in the same
course will be of equal length to the thickened portion which is made a double fabric,
or knitted a double lock stitch, such strengthened parts, or the whole of the fabric
having the appearance of a woven fabric, inasmuch that twice the number of loops
are made on one side to what there are on the other, a single knitted loop showing on
one side of the fabric, and a double or rib stitch on the other.
If the plain loops are made on the outside of a stocking we could un-rove or release
them from the double rib forming the other side-the plain loops interlocking with
the rib loops during the process of knitting either one and one,' "two and one," or
any other number of ribs, the articles of hosiery being thickened or strengthened in
the parts most exposed to wear, and if any of the loops become cut or worn through
the remainder hold firmly together whereas articles thickened by a multiplicity of
loops and other well known ways, are too baggy and not durable, by our making the
double fabric and locking the single plain loops with the rib loops we obviato this
and provide a double wearing surface. In a circular domestic knitting machine
making ribbed work by the use of a series of needles reciprocating vertically in an
upright cylinder co-operating with a second series of needles sliding in a dial plate, we
make the thickened or double fabric by withdrawing the ribbing needles out of action so
that the loops are not placed thereon when coming in a relative position to the cylinder
needles in every other course that is to say, in one' course the double loops are knit,
while in the next course plain loops are knitted and repeated until the thickened part
is finished and the plain loop is thrown on one face of the fabric, and the ribbed loops
on the other, either in a circular or straight frame with one feeder.
In a two feeder machine using swing jacks to the ribbing needles, one of the threads
on one side of the machine will be knitting upon both sets of needles, while on the
other side of the machine the thread will be knitting only upon one set of needles at
the same time, the needles producing the rib stitches, ceasing to knit when passing
those needles knitting the plain stitches, but knitting on the opposite side, such
movement of the ribbing needles being effected automatically from an arrangement of
sliding blocks or the like arranged in the ribbing cam at the lower end of the ribber
arm to actuate the throat of any of the ribbing needles, when not required to knit the

page_text: plain stitches in this case being made on the frame needles the machine needles are
displaced on one side, and will knit again on the opposite side of the cylinder, the
cylinder needles retaining their ordinary positions upon the knitting cams, and the
two different formations of loops being knitted at one time.
In a machine carrying six feeders or yarn carriers three will be knitting on both
sets of needles while the whole six will be knitting only on the one set of needles-in
producing the double fabric.
In such frames known as "Cotton's Patent" we produce the thickened parts in the
fabric, or the double fabric the same as in a one feeder machine previously referred to
by knitting one course with both sets of needles and the next on only one set of
needles, to accomplish this automatically we provide a clutch arrangement to operate
the frame needles.
We can also make in circular machines whether knitting plain or ribbed work a
strengthened mock seam by causing the seam needle, or one needle in the set or circle
of machine needles take up and knit four loops in one revolution or to strengthen the
seam in the thickened part by taking two, three or more loops before knitting the seam,
or allowing the single plain loop or cross weft to pass from side to side of the seam in
every alternate course."
We may also make the leg of a stocking, and foot of plain work and thicken the
fabric at any point desired, such as the knee, either wholly or partly across, or at the
ankle but the outside of the fabric will have the same appearance all plain loops, but
the inside at the thickened parts will be ribbed fabric..
The elasticity of the fabric can be regulated by lengthening and shortening the loop
of the intermittent courses--and any part of a machine from one single needle to the
whole circle or division of needles can be operated upon for the purpose described.
And any well known rotary or circular machine can be employed in the production
of such fabric, or articles of hosiery made of the double fabric herein specified.
Dated this 2nd day of December 1889.
W. B. MAXFIELD,
Agent for the Applicants.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Knitted Ribbed Fabrics, and in the Means and
Appliances used in the Production of same.
We, ANDREW ELWORTHY ADAMS, WILLIAM ALFRED SHEFFIELD, and JOHn Hallam
of Adelaide Buildings Albion Street Leicester, in the County of Leicester, Hosiery
Manufacturers do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement :-
This invention relates to improvements in knitted ribbed fabrics, and in the means
and appliances used in the production of same applicable to articles of hosiery such as
are made in circular knitting machines of the type as shown in the drawings, or upon
other circular knitters, or straight frames producing the various fabrics for articles of
underwear, or to thicken outer knitted garments in the parts most affected by wear
such as are made on parallel bar knitting machines for manufacturing jackets, vests
and the like.
By aid of the appliances and the means by which they are operated shown in the
drawings accompanying this Specification and hereinafter fully described hosiery
ribbed goods are thickened in any portion of the leg or at the ankle of stockings, the
seat of pantaloons, under the arm pits of shirts, or the front or back of under shirts,
guernseys, cardigan jacks, or vests and the like, or articles of hosiery can be wholly
made of the thickened ribbed fabric if desirable such thickened fabric being made:
not by tuck stitches, multiplicity of loops, or splicing threads but by knitting a fabric
that is nearly double the thickness of the ordinary knitted ribbed hosiery fabric
without lengthening such parts of the fabric to which it is applied.

page_text: That our invention may be well understood reference is made to the drawings
annexed in which
Figure 1 sheet 1 is a vertical section of a two feeder circular knitting machine,
the knitting parts of which is drawn in section; the needles are carried by ordinary
swing jacks in the head, and the vertical needles by ordinary jacks in the cylinder and
operated by the combination of appliances forming the subject of this invention.
Figure 2 is an elevation of the same.
Figure 3 is a cut off view of the cylinder and head showing the pressing lever to
operate the cylinder needles, to obtain an extra length of loop in the frame portion of
the machine.
Figure 4 is a plan view looking downwards on to the levers and contrivances
forming the subject of this invention.
Figure 5 is a view of a compound cam ring P, which we employ in machines with
more than two feeders, to operate the internal machine cams.
Figure 6. shows an enlargement of the previous figure to be used for an 8 feeder
machine.
Figure 7. is a view of the cams C, sliding in dovetailed grooves and operated upon
by the cam rings shown in the previous figures.
Figure 8. is an under view of the sliding blocks C, and the internal machine cam P,
used in a two feeder machine.
Figure 9. sheet 2 is a view of the end of the frame of the straight bar machine
known as "Cotton's Patent" showing our contrivances for operating the machine
needle bar 12, by the aid of the hand lever 13, or its equivalent.
Figure 10. is a cut off view of the back rail or cross tie 1, of the frame Figure 9,
with our contrivances attached and to which reference is hereinafter made.
Figure 11. represents a length or leg of knitted one and one ribbed fabric showing
the thickened portions Y, at what forms the knee and ankle in the leg of the stocking,
made on the machine in continuous lengths and then made in
up any ordinary way.
Figure 12. is a diagrammatic view of the loops of the thickened fabric to show in
what manner the dark line loops Y, are knitted and locked in with the other loops Z,
for example; if a portion of the fabric is so thickened and strengthened the remaining
part which is of ordinary knitting in the same course will be found to be of equal
length to the thickened portion which is knitted a double lock stitch, inasmuch that
twice the number of loops are made on one side to what there are on the other, the
single knitted loop Z, being on one side of the fabric and a double or rib stitch Y on
the other. If the loops Z, are on the inside of a stocking we can un-rove them or
release them from the fabric by pulling the dark loops Y, out straight across the course
see Figure 12. thus leaving a fabric still intact.
Figure 13 sheet 3. represents one side of a parallel bar knitter with our appliances
forming the subject of this invention connected thereto and hereinafter described.
Figure 14. shows one way of affixing the stops 14, to the ends of the machine.
Figure 1. is an alternate way of putting the stops 14, at the ends of the machine.
Figure 16. is a view of the cams 15, 16 and 17 and roller 18.
Figure 18. is a bottom view of the split cam 16, and 17 and roller 18.
The thickened fabric is composed of single loops which interlock with the rib loops
during the knitting either of " one and one;' "two and one," or any other number
of ribs, the articles of hosiery being thickened and strengthened in any part most
exposed to wear, and by our process should any of the loops become cut or worn
through, the remainder are held firm whereas articles thickened by a multiplicity of
loops and other well known ways, if one loop becomes worn or severed the whole set
of loops are released besides the goods being bagg and undurable, by our making the
fabric in the manner specified this is obviated and we are enabled to provide a double
wearing surface.
In a circular domestic knitting machine or reversible hand or power knitter we can
adapt our appliances, or in a circular machine making ribbed work by the employment
of a series of needles reciprocating vertically in an upright cylinder co-operating with
a second series of needles sliding in a dial plate or cone the thickened fabric is made

page_text: by withdrawing the ribbing needles out of action so that the loops are not placed
thereon when coming in a relative position to the cylinder needles in every other
course of knitting that is to say; in one course plain loops are knitted and repeated
until the thickened part is finished, the plain loop being thrown on one face of the
fabric, and the ribbed loops on the other either in a circular, or straight frame with
one feeder.
In a two feeder machine using swing jacks to the ribbing needles A one of the
threads in one of the yarn guides a¹ on one side of the machine will be knitting upon
both sets of needles A and B, while on the other side of the machine the thread will
be knitting only upon one set of needles at the same time, the needles A producing
the rib stitches ceasing to knit when passing the needles B, knitting the plain stitches,
but knitting on the opposite side such movement of the needles A, being effected
automatically from an arrangement of sliding blocks C, arranged in the ribbing
cam D, in the lower end of the ribber arm E, to actuate the throat of any of the
ribbing needles A, when not required to knit, the plain stitches in this case being
made on the frame needles B, the machine needles A, being displaced on one side,
and will knit again on the opposite side of the cylinder, the cylinder needles retaining
their ordinary positions upon the knitting cams, but the two different formations of
loops are knitted at one time.
In a machine carrying six feeders or yarn carriers three will be knitting on both
sets of needles while the whole six will be knitting only on the one set of needles in
thickening the fabric.
In such frames known as "Cotton's Patent" see Figures 9 and 10, we produce
the thickened parts in the fabric the same as in a one feeder machine previously
referred to by knitting one course with both sets of needles and the next or succeeding
one on only one set of needles, to accomplish this in a straight frame we provide
appliances arranged to operate the machine needle bar 12, shown in Figures 9 and 10,
hereinafter described.
The elasticity of the thickened fabric can be regulated or varied by lengthening or
shortening the loop of the intermediate courses by the means shown in Figures 3
and 4, and any part of a machine from one single needle to the whole circle or division
of needles can be operated upon for this purpose.
Any rotary or circular machine for knitting ribbed fabric can be employed to
produce the thickened fabric or articles of hosiery in part made of the said thickened
ribbed fabric herein specified without departing from our invention.
In carrying our invention into effect we have annexed illustrated a two feeder
machine with the appliances connected thereto and by which we are enabled to make
the thickened fabric illustrated in the drawings accompanying this Specification.
It will be seen that the whole of the contrivances are operated upon by the revolu-
tion of the machine, upon the hand wheel F, is screwed an eccentric cam G, motion
being imparted from the spur H, riding upon the said cam is the roller fitted at the
outer end of the arm I, that is fitted to the lower end of the vertical shaft J, running
in the sleeve j', at the top of this shaft (see Figure 2) is the lever pivoted to the
link j³, to the outer end of which is attached the rocking lever j, carrying the pawl,
and back spring jo, the pawl moving the toothed wheel, and the pawl, keeps the
said wheel from moving back on the chain barrel K, thereby bringing the dogs k¹,
that are placed in the links of the chain k², in contact with the outer end of the
pivoted lever L, which when raised causes the opposite end 1, to fall clear of the cross
lever 12, fitted on the vertical shaft J, to obtain a longer motion and cause the spring
pawl M, to rack the horizontal can wheel N, carried on the short shaft n' in the
bearings, the upper part of this shaft being forked and carries a pin n³, upon
which the levers are mounted and move freely thereon; the ordinary welting lever O,
the lower end of which rides on the inclines n', on the cam wheel N. The sliding
cam C, in the internal cam P, and through which the end p', of the push back
lever Qenters will then be drawn inwards and take the machine needles A out of
action and cause them to miss the yarn thread. To accomplish this at each side of
the machine the foot of the additional lever R, will also ride on the inclines n', of the

page_text: cam wheel N, opposite the welt lever 0; to the upper end of the lever R, is con-
nected the horizontal lever S, to which is connected the catch lever s¹, the hooked
end of which catches on the roller s³, when the foot of the lever R, is elevated on
the inclines n, the inner push back lever T, withdraws the sliding cam C, in the
internal cam P.
In making the thickened fabric all round the leg of a stocking or other tubular
article the lever R, and the roller s³, is in contact with the cams or inclines on the
cam wheel N, and as before stated the inner lever T is drawn inwards and so removes
or draws in the whole of the machine needles A, on one side of the two feeder
machine out of the knitting race thus both sets of needles will be knitting on one side.
of the head while on the other side the vertical set only will be knitting thus the two
frame courses and one machine course will all be in reality in one course when
passing the yarn feeder that is supplying both sets of needles; now it is found
desirable in making this thickened fabric to regulate the elasticity and thickness of
same, which we accomplish by aid of the short arm &, at the side of the horizontal
lever S, to the outer end of which is an adjustable screw so which when turned and.
the point thereof presses by the action of the lever S, on the sliding rod U, it causes
the frame cam Y, to act upon the feet of the vertical needles B, and lowers them so
that a longer or shorter loop is made as may be desired, the back springs, causes
the lever S, to go back again into its first position, to accomplish this on the opposite
side of the machine we attach a small horizontal rod to the welt lever O, at T', (not
shown) but opposite to the one shown in Figure 3; when the lower end of the
lever O, is upon the inclines on the cam wheel N, the rod depresses the frame cam as
at V.
The fabric may be thickened to any desired extent.
If a two ply or two fold yarn is used the thickened portion would be six fold, and
so on up to any number of plys or folds.
To thicken the ankle part of the leg of a stocking as seen in Figure 11, or to
thicken half across the fabric we displace half the cylinder, or frame needles in the
following manner the outer end of the incline lever W see Figure 1, drops in the
depression of the cam or incline w¹, on the underside of the cam wheel Ñ, which
causes the inner end of the incline lever to fall away from the clearing split
incline w', when the short or stunted footed jacks w², pass down the grooves w³, in the
frame box X, so missing at this point their stitches while at the same time the whole
of the machine needles will be knitting on both sides of the head.
To those conversant with the art by referring to Figure 12 sheet 2. of the drawings
it will be seen that our method of thickening fabrics and strengthening those parts
most affected by wear we practically knit a succession of one course welts with this
exception that we do not make a tuck course as in the making of a welt.
The dark portion of the thread, Y, in the double knitted course is linked in every
other set of loops of the light portion Z; to demonstrate this suppose we take a.
broken end of the thread as at Y, Figure 11, or the thread becomes severed by.
wear the loops at back Z, will be intact.
To produce the said thickened fabric upon straight bar frames, or machines that
are known as "Cotton's Patent" shown in Figures 9 and 10, we arrange upon the
cross tie 1, in rear of the machine, in the bracket 2, the bent rod 3, made of such
a length that it catches against the arm 4, attached to the end of the draw bar 5,
whatever its position; to actuate the guide rod 6, upon the outer end of which is
fitted the fork 7, to move the roller 8, from the cam 9, on to the circular cam 10,
when the said roller attached to the levers 11, holding the machine needle bar 12, is
on the circular cam 10, the said bar will be held out of its knitting position (as
shown in dotted line Figure 9) for one traverse of the yarn carriers along the whole
division of needles, upon the return traverse the roller 8, is shifted to the cam 9,
and the needle bar 12, is brought into its relative or knitting position to the frame
needles so that in this course both sets of needles are knitting, this being repeated-
until the required length of thickened fabric has been made, when the hand lever 13,

page_text: is in the horizontal position seen in Figure 9, the machine needles will be in com-
bination with the frame needles (not shown) and knitting ribbed work.
To thicken the fabric in patches, or partly across the fabric in such machines as
"Lambs" or other parallel bar knitting frames or such knitters as Harrisons,"
"Rothwells" and the like see Figure 13, we take the bottom cam 16, known as the
clearing can or incline and split it vertically 17, this part fitting in the other
portion 16, as shown in Figures 16 and 17, we also place in the requisite slots
short or stunted footed jacks B, in sufficient numbers to cover the width of fabric to
be thickened, which operation is accomplished by depressing the inside clearing
cam 17, at one end of the machine by aid of the roller 18, coming against the
inclined plane of one of the stops 14, which is below the centre of the cam pin 19,
the other stop at the opposite end being above the centre of the cam pin the
cam 17 is knocked up, consequently at one end of the machine the split cam is
knocked upwards and downwards at the other causing the short or stunted footed
jacks to miss the course one way see dotted circles Figure 16, and knit upon its
return in any portion of the fabric as desired, or for any portion of an article of
hosiery. Be it understood that the thickening or strengthening of the fabric as
herein described differs from a "Royal rib" composed of a multiplicity of loops piled
on the needles, which will be seen by the following explanation.
.
"
In making a "
Royal rib stitch the extra bulk or loading is done on the machine
needles only which come in the machine wale of the rib consequently giving the
extra yarn in width and bulk but not actually in thickness, or in extra strength.
Whereas our lock stitch gives the extra yarn in the thickness for, when the extra
frame course is completed, the next course on the machine needles doubles the
previous frame course, and the course being knitted together, thus throwing all the
thickness on one face of the fabric, or in portions of the fabric.
"
We are
aware that long since it was proposed to produce a "double knee'd
stocking as suggested in an application for a Patent No. 1760 of 1878, by inserting
an extra thread or threads to produce a spliced thickened knee, also that the elbows
of jerseys and other outer garments have been made "double" by these means.
And we are aware that it was proposed by Joseph Black in his application for
Patent No. 2214 of 1879, to make both plane and tucked ribbed fabrics in the same
revolution of a circular machine also reversing the making of both tuck and plane
ribbed fabric from one part of the machine to the other at any given length of work
or number of revolutions, this will be well understood by those conversant with the
art of knitting that by this invention the fabric was thickened by a multiplicity of
loops.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed we would have it to be
understood that we do not confine ourselves in thickening the fabric only in the
machines herein shown and described; because by the same, or other equivalent
means it can be accomplished on any knitting machine and we do not use such
knitting process for ornamentation, but for thickening the articles, of hosiery, or
fabrics in parts most affected by wear in the manner specified and we declare that
what we claim is :-
1. Thickening and strengthening a knitted ribbed hosiery fabric wholly or partly
across, or wholly or partly round in articles of ribbed hosiery by knitting upon one
side of the machine on one set of needles while upon the other side both sets of
needles are knitting in the same course, as herein described.
66
one
2. Thickening and strengthening knitted hose, socks, or fabrics whether in "
and one,"
two and one,"
or any other number of ribs by each and every loop
being knitted separately but the thickening course piled upon the other by only one
layer of yarn upon the needles at one time in circular or straight bar knitting
.machines.
3. In parallel bar knitting machines the means as herein described for

page_text: thickening ribbed fabrics, or articles of knitted ribbed hosiery in the parts most
affected by wear.
4. The combination of appliances as herein shown and described for automatically
actuating the frame or machine needles whether self acting or otherwise to knit
the thickened fabric in the several classes of knitting machines herein before referred
to having one or any number of feeders.
5. Improvements in knitted ribbed articles or fabrics to wholly or partly thicken any
portion or part of same either in the knees and ankles of hose or half hose, or the
insides of sleeves of jerseys, guernseys and the like, or other parts of knitted ribbed
hosiery mostly affected by wear, without. employing auxiliary threads to the knitting
threads, or a multiplicity of loops, tuck stitches, or loading of the needles, but by
knitting each loop separately in the manner and by the appliances or their equivalents
substantially as herein described and set forth.
Dated this 20th day of June 1890.
WILLIAM BESTWICK MAXFIELD,
Patent Agent,
No. 19, Bowling Green Street, Leicester, Agent for the Applicants.