Improvements in Woven Fabrics.
Year: 1894

page_text: Date of Application, 10th Mar., 1894-Accepted, 2nd June, 1894
COME LEIE
Improvements in Woven Fabrics.
1, ALFRED KILEY, of Green Bank, Roebuck Lane, Sale, in the County of
Chester, Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement :-
My invention relates more particularly to satins, satteens, and satin-drills, whether
with a weft, or with a warp floated face, and made and intended to be used for
hangings, trimmings, dresses and other similar purposes.
In the manufacture of these goods, it has hitherto been the custom to weave a
satin with one and the same satin float repeating itself over the whole of the face
of the fabric as is shown in diagram Figs. 2 and 3 and the same principle has also
hitherto applied to the weaving of satteens and satin-drills with the result that
there was thereby produced one plain and uniform effect all over the surface of the
fabric so woven and hence fabrics so woven with these kinds of weaves have been
called plain satins, plain satteens, plain satin-drills.
"
My invention consists essentially in uniting in one fabric by means of an
"intercommunicating" or medium weave bodies of two opposite weaves for
example that of a weft floated satin weave with that of a warp floated satin weave
to produce a shaded or shadowy effect.
In carrying out my invention instead of continuing either the weft floated, satin
weave or the warp floated satin weave all over the face of the cloth as is the present
practice in weaving plain satin I employ in one fabric both of these two weaves
and I employ them alternately and in masses, first, a number or mass of weft satin
floats and then a number or mass of warp satin floats and in such solid forms or
masses of each and both as will enable me to place a body or mass of weft floated
satin weave in juxtaposition to a body or mass of warp floated satin weave.
1 vary these solid forms or masses of weft floated satin weave and warp floated
satin weave either in form or extent or repetition of massing according to taste and
scope of appliances used and I always provide sufficient distances between the body
or mass of weft floated satin weave and the body or mass of warp floated satin
weave to admit of the medium or connecting weave being inserted between them
as a connecting weave and into which connecting weave the two opposite weaves
merge and are lost to sight? as in light and shade.
The "intercommunicating" or "medium" weave must essentially always run
between the other two opposite weaves to join them for it is by so joining them
that the shaded (or shadowy) effect is produced on the face of the fabric which
shaded (or shadowy) effect distinguishes a fabric so woven from a fabric woven
as heretofore with only one weave employed.
A fabric thus woven in accordance with my invention whether from grey
bleached or dyed threads and either before or after being piece dyed bleached or
otherwise treated presents a soft velvety and shaded (or shadowed) appearance
quite distinctly different and for many purposes superior to any effect heretofore
produced.
My invention applies to all possible variation in designing and arranging the
masses of Figs. A. B. C. and D'weaves which can be designed and carried out and
which are only capable of being designed and carried out under the principle of
my invention which invention lies in uniting in one fabric bodies or masses of weft
floated satin weaves with bodies or masses of warp floated satin weaves by means
of a medium or connecting weave and in thus rendering on the face of the fabric a
graduated shading off from one to the other opposite mass or form of shadow and

page_text: as an improvement upon and in contradistinction to the plainness of a plain satin,
satteen or satin-drill and also in contradistinction to the abrupt terminating lines of
a satin stripe or satteen stripe or diagonal and also as distinct from the positiveness
or outlining of the figures in brocades and damasks.
As my invention can only be carried out on the Jacquard loom I have deemed it
only necessary to draw the diagrams in facsimile of the design papers usually
adopted in designing for the Jacquard loom and which are understood and
intelligible to those employed in Jacquard weaving.
The several kinds of weaves referred to in these Specifications as weft floated
satin weave and warp floated satin weave are shown in the four diagrams A. B.
C and D.
The black in all the diagrams represents the weft and the white represents the
warp coming up in the weaving on the face of the fabric.
Figs. A and B diagrams represent respectively a five end and an eight end warp
satin float.
:
Figs. C and D diagrams represent respectively a five end and an eight end weft
satin float.
Fig. 1, diagram shows an example of carrying out the floating of the inter-
communicating medium or connecting weave.
Fig. 2, diagram shows a solid body or mass of eight end warp floated satin.
Fig. 3, diagram shows a solid body or mass of eight end weft floated satin.
Fig. 4, diagram shows finally No. 1 intercommunicating or medium weave
inserted between the two solid bodies of Nos. 2 and 3 opposite weaves and from
this No. 4 diagram will be seen the general effect of shading off from and into each
other of Nos. 2 and 3 weaves produced by placing No. 1 weave between them.
Fig. 5, diagram shows the effect as seen on the face of a cloth woven with an
arrangement like that shown in No. 4 diagram.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
claim is :-
1. The method of producing a woven fabric with a shaded or shadowy effect
which consists in uniting in one fabric bodies or masses of weft floated satin weaves
with bodies or masses of warp floated satin weaves by means of a medium or
connecting weave thus rendering on the face of the fabric a gradual shading off
from one to the other opposite mass substantially as described.
2. A fabric woven or arranged as herein described with an intercommunicating
or medium weave uniting. bodies or masses of two opposite weaves and having
upon its face a shaded or shadowy effect.
Dated this 9th day of March 1894.
WM. P. THOMPSON & Co.,
6, Bank Street, Manchester; Patent Agents.