CERTAIN IMPROVE- MEETS IN THE PREPARING OF AND MAKING WATERPROOF CLOTH AND OTHER MATERIALS FOR THE MANUFACTURING HATS, BONNETS, AND CAPS, AND WEARING APPAREL, AND IN MANUFACTURING THE SAME THEREFROM
Year: 1824

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, WILLIAM
PHILIP WEISE, of Tooley Street, Southwark, in the County of Surry, Man-
facturer, send greeting.
WHEREAS His most Excellent Majesty King George the Fourth did, by
His Letters Patent under the Great Seal of the United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland, bearing date at Westminster, the Fourteenth day of
October, in the fifth year of His reign, give and grant unto me, the said
William Philip Weise, my exors, admors, and assigns, His especial licence, full
power, sole priviledge and authority, that I, the said William Philip Weise,
my exors, admors, and assigns, during the term of years therein expressed,
should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within that part of
His United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland called England, His
Dominion of Wales, and Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, and also in all
His Colonies and Plantations abroad, my Invention of "CERTAIN IMPROVE-
MEETS IN THE PREPARING OF AND MAKING WATERPROOF CLOTH AND OTHER
MATERIALS FOR THE MANUFACTURING HATS, BONNETS, AND CAPS, AND WEARING
APPAREL, AND IN MANUFACTURING THE SAME THEREFROM;" in which said Letters
Patent there is contained a proviso obliging me, the said William Philip
Weise, by an instrument in writing under my hand and seal, to cause a
particular description of the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be inrolled in His Majesty's High Court of

page_text: Chancery within six calendar months after the date of the said recited Letters
Patent, as in and by the same (relation being thereunto had) will more fully
and at large appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said
William Philip Weise, do hereby declare that my said Invention is described
in manner following, that is to say :-
This cloth and other material is to be made waterproof or not, at the option
of the party manufacturing it, but as well in preparing it as in making it
waterproof; and whether made waterproof or not, the purpose for which it is
wanted is to be first considered, that is to say, whether for hats, bonnets, and 1
caps, or for cloth; and, secondly, the quality, as applicable to a fine or coarse
material, for suiting the different markets for which the article may be
designed.
As regards the cloth for manufacturing fine hats, bonnetts, and caps, the
same is to be made from the following materials, namely, beaver of all 1
descriptions, musk wool, neuter wool, backs of hares wool, Saxon wool, fine
foreign or English flax, or hemp, down, or feathers, and carded silk, in the
following proportions, namely:-Of the beaver, musk wool, neuter wool, and
backs of hares wool, five pounds each; of the flax or hemp two pounds; of the
down or feathers, one pound; of the Saxon wool one pound and a half; and of
the carded silk three quarters of a pound. The inferior hats will be made of
the same beaver, with coney wool, seal wool, camel hair, red wool, camelia
wool, Spanish wool, sqirrel wool, English wool, flax, mohair, and 'down or
feathers; with the carded silk or any of the materials may be used, taking
the like proportion of five pound of the beaver and of three or four of the S
wools, &c. last named, with one pound of the down or feathers, two pound of
the flax, and three quarters of a pound of the carded silk; or any one of the
above materials may be used separately, whether the cloth may be wanted for
hats, bonnetts, and caps, or wearing apparel, if desired. These materials are
in each case to be divided into one hundred and forty-two parts, so as that S
about two ounces and a half may pass at a time through a fine carding
engine. But great care must be taken that the fine wools, such as beaver, &c.,
are laid or bow on the roller cloth first, and the wools, flax, down, feathers,
and silk last, in order that the beaver or other fine wools or furs may be kept
by themselves on the top. It then goes through the carding engines into cans, 3
and thence through the drawing frame, and afterwards through the roving
frame, then on bobbins and the stretching frame, making a twisted or thrown
thread. The thread thus made must be made of two sizes (one much finer
than the other, and made so by being spun on mules for that purpose), and

page_text: reeled into skeins for shoot. If the material is wanted to be made waterproof,
this is the stage at which it is to be done, and the following is the manner :-
Mix and unite together equal parts of shellac, caoutchouc or india rubber;
gum mastic, gum animé, and gum sandaric, the caoutchouc to be cut into very
small pieces, and the shellac and gums to be ground very fine, and the whole
dissolved in spirits of wine or turpentine, or any other spirit, to the consistence
of water, and in this waterproof size or mixture lay the finer skeins till they
are perfectly saturated; it being on the finer skeins only, and not the larger
or coarse ones, that this process is to be performed. After the finer skeins are
thus saturated, take them out and squeeze them gently till no drops of the
mixture will fall from them, or let them drain and then hang them up to dry,
which may be done either by heat or atmospheric air. When thus prepared,
dye both skeins the colour wanted, taking care if wanted black first to woad
them or dip them blue. The skeins are then to be wound and woved in a
regular silk or other loom, with six, ten, or fourteen lambs and counter-
meshes, and as many treddles as wanted, and made with a tissue tie or any
other that may be needful. The fine or waterproof skein to be used for the
back or lost shoot and the coarse one for the face of the cloth. For the
ground warps or binder, either silk, mohair, fine flax, or wools may be used,
and the warps are to be dressed over with a fine brush with the waterproof
size above mentioned, instead of the common glue or size now in use. When
these materials are thus woven into cloth, pass the cloth through a hot
cylinder, or iron it on the back with hot irons, by which the mixture on the
fine shoot and the warp will run through the whole center of the cloth,
uniting the shoots and back of the warp together, and thus completing the
waterproof process. The cloth is then to be stretched on a frame and the
face side carded up with fine cards or teazles for that purpose, such as all
other beaver hats are carded with so as to get a fine nap, and bring all
the beaver or other facing on the surface of the cloth; but great care must be
taken in this process. The cloth thus made, and made waterproof, if so
desired, then forms the outer covering of the bat, by being fixed on wool.
bodies or other frames, in the usual way of making silk hats. As regards
the cloth for wearing apparel, it is to be considered whether it is wanted for
velvet or for other apparel. If for velvet, take the materials above mentioned
and weave them in the manner above described, altering the tie to the usual
tie used for velveteens, and to be cut in the same manner, but not carded.
If for wearing apparel or broad cloth, the Saxon or fine German wool, or
flax with a small portion of beaver, may be used, or any one of the fine furs
or wools, so as to make a fine face, and got up and finished in the usual way,

page_text: but using the finer skein only for shoot, which, with the warp, may be made
waterproof by the process above mentioned, and passed through the hot
cylinder or under the hot iron on the back side of it, as above set forth.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Philip Weise, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, this Eleventh day of April, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and twenty-five.