IMPROVEMENTS IN TREATING, STRETCHING, OR FINISHING TEXTILE FABRICS, AND IN A name in
Year: 1853

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Isaac Bury, of Lower Mosley Street, in the
City of Manchester, in the County of Lancaster, Embosser and
Finisher, and William Green, of Islington, in the County of
Middlesex, Engineer, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN
TREATING, STRETCHING, OR FINISHING TEXTILE FABRICS, AND IN
A name in
"
Sealed the 25th March 1854, and dated the 27th September 1853.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Isaac Bury and
William Green at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents,
with their Petition, on the 27th September 1853.
We, ISAAC BURY, of Lower Mosley Street, in the City of Manchester,
in the County of Lancaster, Embosser and Finisher, and WILLIAM
GREEN, of Islington, in the County of Middlesex, Engineer, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN TREAT-
ING, STRETCHING, OR FINISHING TEXTILE FABRICS, AND IN MACHINERY OR
APPARATUS FOR EFFECTING THE SAME," to be as follows:-
First, our Invention consists in a mode of lengthening and "stretch-
ing" textile fabrics. To effect this the material is unwound from a

page_text: "box" or roller working in suitable bearings on an iron framework,
and, by means of a handle keyed on to another roller, is drawn over
two rollers or two series or rows of rollers arranged at either end of an
iron chest; and in its passage over the said rollers passes between
clips or bars suitably adjusted at either side, those on one side being
fitted to the framework of the apparatus, and those on the opposite side
to a moveable frame working in suitable guides in the inside of the
apparatus, and to which frame a traverse motion is communicated by
screws in the manner of an ordinary press. One of the rollers, or if
more than two be used, one row of the rollers at the end of the appa-
ratus is fitted to a moveable frame working in suitable guides, and is
also actuated by screws. Motion may be communicated to the screws
by means of bevilled wheels arranged on the outside of the machine, or
by any other means. Gauges are fitted on the framework and points
to the moveable clips and rollers to indicate their position inside the
apparatus. The side bars or clips may be either in one length, and
faced with an elastic substance, or they may be composed of a number
of parts and fitted together on strips of vulcanized india-rubber or other
flexible material. In some cases it will be desirable to have grooves
or points upon the clips to ensure a firm grip of the material. When
a sufficient quantity of the material is unwound to fill the chest the
clips are brought together by means of cranks or screws attached
thereto and communicating with the outside of the apparatus. The
operator then elongates or widens the fabric as desired by means of the
respective screws for such purpose. The material may be previously
damped by being passed over a spray of water or otherwise, or steam
may be admitted into the chest while the fabric is being stretched.
When sufficiently stretched, a current of hot air is forced by a fan upon
the fabric to absorb the moisture contained therein, or other heating
media may be employed, if preferred. When sufficiently stretched and
dried, the fabric is wound on to a roller arranged on the outside of
the apparatus, and another length made to occupy its place. An "end
cloth" or taps are employed to draw the fabric through the machine.
Secondly, our Invention consists in a mode of imparting pliability and
softness to textile fabrics. To effect this part of our Invention the

page_text: fabric, after being sized or dressed, is drawn over rollers and between
clips, as before described. When sufficiently stretched the end rollers
are loosened, and a zigzag or alternating traverse motion is commu-
nicated to the clips from a crank or other suitable motion. This
may be done while the fabric is under the action of hot air.
Thirdly, our Invention consists in a mode of removing certain colors
from and of imparting colors to textile fabrics by forcing currents of
hot air, vapor, or gas charged with sulphur, chlorine, iodine, bromine,
or other chemical agents upon them. To effect this part of our Inven-
tion the material is drawn over rollers and between clips, as before
described, and the fumes, vapors, or gases are forced upon the same by
means of a fan, pump or engine. In some cases perforated plates may
be pressed in contact with the fabric or paper during the operation, so
as to confine the action of the chemical agents to certain parts thereof.
Lastly, our Invention consists in the peculiar arrangement of appa-
ratus herein-before described for carrying out the several parts of
our Invention.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Isaac Bury and William Green in the Great
Seal Patent Office on the 27th March 1854.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we,
ISAAC BURY, of Lower Mosley Street, in the City of Manchester, in the
County of Lancaster, Embosser and Finisher, and WILLIAM GREEN, of
Islington, in the County of Middlesex, Engineer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Twenty-seventh day of September, in
the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-three, in
the sixteenth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and suc-
cessors, give and grant unto us, the said Isaac Bury and William
Green, Her special licence that we, the said Isaac Bury and William
Green, our executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as we,
the said Isaac Bury and William Green, our executors, administrators,
and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time

page_text: to time and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed,
should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the
United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands,
and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN TREATING,
STRETCHING, OR FINISHING TEXTILE FABRICS, AND IN MACHINERY OR APPA-
RATUS FOR EFFECTING THE SAME," upon the condition (amongst others)
that we, the said Isaac Bury and William Green, by an instrument in
writing under our hand and seal, should particularly describe and ascer-
tain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same waз
to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal
Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately after
the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said William Green, on behalf of
myself and of the said Isaac Bury, do hereby declare the nature of our
said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement
(that is to say):
Our said Invention of "Improvements in Treating, Stretching, or
Finishing Textile Fabrics, and in Machinery or Apparatus for Effecting
the same," consists,-
First, in communicating tension to textile fabrics when out of the
loom in the direction of the warp and of the weft simultaneously, for
the purpose of keeping them to their original size, or nearly so, in
one direction, while elongating or distending them in the opposite
direction thereof; also in elongating textile materials after the same
have been partially woven, and preparatory to the final weaving
operation.
"
Secondly, our Invention consists in imparting pliability or softness
to textile fabrics, or what is technically termed an "elastic finish,'
without the use of pin points on the sides of such fabrics; as also
in giving softness to and in elongating textile materials, whether
the same have been wholly or only partially woven, by synchronous
operations.
Thirdly, our Invention consists in removing certain colors from, and
in imparting colors to, textile fabrics, whether the same are wholly or

page_text: only partially woven, by forcing currents of hot air, or vapours, or gases,
charged with various chemical agents, upon the same.
Fourthly, our Invention consists in the employment of hot air for
drying textile fabrics, whether the same are woven or only partially
woven, when subjected to either of the before-mentioned operations.
Lastly, our Invention consists in certain arrangements of machinery
or apparatus herein described, or any mere modifications thereof, for
carrying into effect the several parts of our said Invention.
First, with regard to our Invention of communicating tension to
textile fabrics, when out of the loom, in the direction of the warp
and of the weft simultaneously, for the purpose of keeping them to
their original size, or nearly so, in one direction, while elongating or
listending them in the opposite direction thereof; also in clongating
textile materials after the same have been partially woven, and pre-
paratory to the final weaving operation. To carry into effect this
portion of our said Invention, the material to be operated upon is
unwound from a "box" or roller, which works in suitable bearings
fitted to an iron framework, and by means of a roller or pair of rollers
connected to a suitable prime mover is drawn over or between two
pair of rollers, one pair thereof being arranged at either end of an iron
framework; or in some cases the fabric is drawn over two series or sets
of rollers suitably arranged in an iron framework or chest, one set of
the said rollers being plain, and the other set being somewhat larger
at their centres than at the ends thereof, and having grooves turned
around their circumference. In its passage from one end of the
machine to the other end thereof, the fabric passes between clips or
bars suitably adjusted on either side thereof, and capable of travelling
in opposite directions, (so as to be adapted to different widths of
inaterial,) by means of screws working in the framework, and on the
ends of which screws suitable handles or wormed or bevilled wheels
are fitted for turning them. The side bars or clips may be either in
one length, and faced with an elastic substance, or they may be com-
posed of a number of parts fitted together on strips of vulcanized
india-rubber, or other clastic material, so as to permit of their travel-
ling with and receiving tension together with the fabric as it is being

page_text: drawn through the machine. The clips may be provided with grooves
or points upon their surface, so as to ensure a firm grip of the ma-
terial.
When two sets of rollers are employed, the clips may, in some
cases, be dispenced with, the grooved or undulated set thereof serving
the purpose of "straining bars," and also of keeping the fabric dis-
tended as it is drawn through the machine. Suitable gauges are to
be fitted to the apparatus to indicate to the operator the amount of
tension the fabric is receiving. At either end of the machine a row
of rollers are fitted into sliding pieces or carriers, which work in suit-
able guides, and which receive a traverse motion, either in one or in
opposite directions, by means of screws or other mechanical arrange-
ments. Motion may be communicated to the screws by means of
wormed or bevilled wheels connected together by a suitable cross bar
on the outside of the machine, or by any other convenient means.
When it is desirable to exert upon the fabric to be operated upon the
full amount of tension which it is capable of bearing without injury,
given lengths of the said fabric may be acted upon seperately. When,
therefore, a sufficient quantity of such fabric is unwound to extend
over the entire sets of rollers and to fill the machine, the side clips,
when such are employed, are to be brought close together by means of
cranks, screws, or levers attached thereto, and extending to the outside
of the machine. The operator then elongates or distends the fabric,
as desired, by means of the respective screws for such purpose. In
some cases, however, the friction produced upon the fabric by drawing
it over or between a series of rollers will of itself be sufficient to elon-
gate the same. The material, previous to being operated upon, or as
it enters the machine, may be damped or moistened by being passed
over a spray of water, or over and under rollers working in a vessel
containing water or "dressing," and thence between squeezing rollers;
or steam may be admitted into the machine while the fabric is being
stretched, or as it enters therein for the purpose of moistening the
same. When sufficiently "stretched" or elongated, or as it is passing
out of the machine, the fabric is to be brought in contact with a suit-
able heating medium in order to remove the moisture contained
therein. It is then wound on to a roller working in suitable bearings

page_text: on the outside of the machine, and in its passage out another length is
made to occupy its place.
Secondly, as relates to our Invention of imparting pliability or soft-
ness to textile fabrics, or what is technically termed an "elastic finish,"
without the use of pin points on the sides of such fabrics, as also in
giving softness to and in elongating textile materials, whether the same
have been wholly or only partially woven, by synchronous operations.
In order to give fulness or "body" to certain kinds of textile fabrics,
it is customary to impregnate the same with a glutinous or mucilaginous
matter, such as size, starch, or paste. In this operation the interstices
of the fabric being filled with a less elastic material than the fabric
itself, a harshness or stiffness is the result. In order to remove this
objection, fabrics so treated are sometimes subjected to a zigzag opera-
tion, by which the dressing contained therein is partially broken up;
but as in this operation the sides of the fabric are held by pin points,
so as to keep the same distended during the process, a series of holes
are made therein, which holes are scarcely less objectionable than
the defect sought to be remedied. Now one object of this second part
of our Invention is to dispence with the use of pin points on the sides
of fabrics while receiving an "elastic finish." To effect this, the
material, after being sized or starched, is drawn over or between a
series of rollers arranged in a suitable framework (in a similar manner
to those already described herein), those on either end being fitted into
sliding pieces, so as to be capable of receiving a zigzag or alternating
traverse motion from cranks or other mechanical arrangements con-
nected therewith. In lieu of pin points for keeping fabrics distended
while being thus treated, we employ a series of clips, the fabric being
at the same time drawn over and under a series of rollers either plain
or rough, and somewhat larger at their centres than at the ends
thereof. Or in some cases the side clips may be dispensed with, the
difference in the diameter of the rollers and the roughness thereof
being sufficient to keep the fabric distended, and of breaking up the
"dressing" contained therein when subjected to a zigzag motion; in
either case, however, an elastic finish may be imparted to fabrics
without perforating the sides thereof. When so desired fabrics may

page_text: be distended or elongated while receiving an "elastic finish," by exert-
ing a given amount of tension thereon in the direction in which it is
desirable to increase the size thereof, simultaneously with the alter-
nating traverse motion. When the increased size is required in the
direction of the length of the fabric, this may be effected by causing
buffers to act upon the several rollers over which the fabric is drawn;
but when required in the direction of the width of the fabric, the side
pieces for carrying the clips, or one piece thereof, may be caused gra-
dually to recede from the opposite side thereof by means of screws or
other equivalent mechanical arrangements attached thereto, and work-
ing in unison with the arrangement for giving the zigzag motion to
the material. Or the fabric may first be distended or elongated, and
previous to its being drawn from the machine be subjected to an
alternating traverse motion for the purpose of receiving an "elastic
finish."
Thirdly, as regards our Invention of removing certain colors from,
and in imparting colors to, textile fabrics, whether the same are wholly
or only partially woven, by forcing currents of hot air, or vapours, or
gases, charged with various chemical agents, upon the same. Most
textile materials possess certain shades of color, which, though natural,
are not essential constituents. These coloring matters it is often neces-
sary to remove, before the material can be operated upon by the dyer
or printer. For this purpose various plans are adopted. As the
coloring matters contained in such fabrics are more readily acted upon
by chemical agents than the animal or vegetable substances with which
they are combined, they suffer decomposition more readily, and may
therefore be removed with little or no injury to the texture of the
material itself. The usual mode of operation for this purpose is to
subject the material to the action of chloride of lime, sulphurous acid
gas, or the fumes of burning sulphur, merely permitting the materials
or fabrics to be acted upon by immersion in or contact with the said
chemical agents. Also certain colors may be imparted to textile
materials or fabrics in a similar manner, but by changing the character
of the chemical agents employed; Now, the object of this portion of
our Invention is to facilitate the action of chemical fumes, vapors, or

page_text: gases upon textile fabrics, by forcing them through the same or through
parts only thereof, by means of a fan, pump, or other forcing medium.
To effect this, the material may be entered into an iron chest in which
suitable rollers, bars, and clips are arranged, for keeping the same dis-
tended and stretched while being operated upon by the said chemical
agents; and, when so desired, perforated plates of any desired pattern
may be pressed in contact therewith, by means of cams, screws, or
other equivalent means. Chemical agents, as, for example, the fumes,
vapors, or gases generated by or obtained from sulphur, chlorine, iodine,
or other matters, are then to be forced through the material or through
a series of layers tliereof, until the same are sufficiently acted upon.
In certain cases, the fumes, or aëriform or gaseous fluids, may be
caused to pass through textile fabrics or paper by suction.
Fourthly, with respect to our Invention of the employment of hot
air for drying textile fabrics, whether the same are woven or only partly
woven, when subjected to either of the before-mentioned operations.
When textile fabrics receive an "elastic finish," or are stretched in
width, as also in certain cases when colors are removed from or imparted
thereto, it is customary to dry the same by passing them over a slow
fire, or over heated plates or cylinders. This process is in many cases
objectionable, as it renders the fabric harsh and hard to the touch,
especially fustians or cotton velvets. To obviate these objections, we
subject materials which are treated by either of the before-mentioned
operations to the action of currents of hot air, as they pass from the
machine in which they have been elongated, distended, treated, or
finished. The dryness or thirst, as it were, of the air, causes it to
absorb the moisture from the fabric as it passes in contact therewith,
while the force of the currents in striving to find an escape through the
material, tends to give pliability and fulness to the same without any
fear of injury being thereby caused to the fabric. To carry into effect
this portion of our Invention, we use a fan or other blowing machine
for forcing currents of cold air through heated chambers, in their
passage through which they take up the caloric from the said chambers,
and convey it the material on which they are caused to spend themselves.

page_text: In order to give force to the currents of air, they are caused to pass
out of small apertures placed at a convenient distance from the fabric
on which they are to operate, or the air is caused to pass through a
shallow box, and to impinge upon and travel with the fabric, but in an
opposite direction thereto.
:
Lastly, as regards certain arrangements of machinery or apparatus
herein described, or any mere modifications thereof for carrying into
effect the several parts of our said Invention. In order that these
said arrangements may be better understood, we have represented them
in the accompanying Sheet of Drawings.
Fig. 1, is a side elevation of a machine for elongating, distending,
and giving an "elastic finish" to textile fabrics, or for effecting either
of these several purposes separately; as also in certain cases for keep-
ing fabrics lengthened and distended while being acted upon by
chemical fumes, vapors, or gases. Fig. 2, is a plan of the same
machine, with an apparatus attached thereto for heating air or other
agents to be employed therein. Fig. 3, is a longitudinal section of the
above machine. Fig. 4, is an end elevation thereof. Fig. 5, is a side
view of a series of clips to be employed when so desired, in connection
with the before-mentioned arrangements, for keeping fabrics distended
while being operated upon therein; and Fig. 6, is an end view thereof.
A, A, is a cast iron framework firmly bolted together at either end.
B, B, is a series of rollers kept stationery in their respective positions,
but free to rotate upon their several axles; which rollers it is in some
cases advisable should be somewhat larger at their centres than at their
ends, and have grooves turned around their circumference. C, C, is
another set or series of rollers working in sliding pieces or carriers
D, D, with which pieces the rollers travel to and fro when so desired,
and are free to rotate upon their several axles therein.
Suitable slots
are formed in the framework in which the carriers D, D¹, may slide,
which carriers are connected with each other on either side by means
of the bars E, E, but may be disconnected at pleasure when not re-
quired for the purpose of imparting an "elastic finish" to fabrics.
F, F, are "boxes," in which set screws may be introduced for moving the

page_text: carriers D, when textile fabrics are to receive a large amount of ten-
sion, and on the ends of which screws a cross bar may be fitted for
carrying bevilled or wormed wheels for moving the said screws simulta-
neously. On the ends of the rollers C', small toothed wheels G, are
fitted, and between them intermediate wheels are fitted on to one of
the carriers D', for the purpose of causing the rollers therein to travel
in one direction. These rollers receive motion by means of the
pulley H, from the corresponding pulley H', which is keyed on to the
shaft I, on which the spur wheel is also keyed, and which is actuated
by the pinion K, from the fast and loose pulleys L, L'. The perforated
pipes M, (see Fig. 2), are charged with air from the reservoir N, into
which it passes from the fan O, after being heated by passing through
a series of small tubes P, which tubes are encased in an outer tube,
and around them steam is caused to circulate. Or, if preferred, the
air to be employed for this purpose may be heated by being passed
through pipes enclosed in a furnace. Q, is a two-throw crank shaft;
and Q', are connecting rods attached thereto for imparting the alter-
nating traverse motion to the carriers D, D', and to the end rollers
which work therein when fabrics are to receive an "elastic finish"
thereby. R is a fast and R¹ a loose pulley for actuating the same.
S, is a series of buffers bolted loosely on to the framework and con-
nected together by the bar T, to which a crank U, and a weighted
lever V, VI, are attached for regulating the pressure of the said buffers
upon the axles of the rollers B, B, on which they are intended to act,
for the purpose of increasing the friction upon fabrics as they are
drawn through the machine. W, W, (Fig. 8,) are small rollers or
clips covered with india-rubber or other soft material, and connected
together by means of the bars X. These clips may be adapted to
various widths of material by merely altering the positions of the bars
to which they are attached. The several working parts are fitted
into suitable brasses and plummer blocks, as shewn in the Drawings.
"3
The action of the machine is as follows:-If fabrics are to be
elongated a roll thereof is placed upon a "box" Y, and by means o
an "end cloth," previously entered into the machine, is drawn over and
under the several rollers by means of the pulley H. When the fric-

page_text: tion thus produced is insufficient to elongate the fabric the buffers S,
and the roller clips W, may be pressed upon the rollers or upon the
axles thereof as the fabric is passing through the machine; or, in some
cases, after a given length thereof is entered therein, in which latter
case the set screws before described may be used for drawing the
carriers D, D', assunder, and thus further clongating the fabric. The
currents of hot air for drying the material may be continuous or inter-
mittent, as desired. When fabrics are to be distended it will be neces-
sary to use the arrangement of clips shewn in Figs. 5, and 6, in lieu
of the rollers and the roller clips. When these clips are employed
they are to be opened while the fabric is being drawn over the end
rollers by means of the levers Z, which levers act upon a series of
small cranks a, and by altering the positions of the bars b, from a per-
pendicular to an oblique direction, open the same, and vice versa, when
the clips are to be closed. When the fabric is thus introduced between
and held by the clips d, they may be moved assunder by the set
screws c, which screws project through one side of the machine, and
may be actuated by suitable wormed or bevilled wheels. The clips d,
are composed of a number of parts, and attached to strips of vulcanized
india-rubber, so as to permit of fabrics being elongated as well as dis-
tended when held thereby.
Figures 7, 8, 9, and 10, represent a modification of the preceding
arrangement adapted chiefly for clongating textile materials, and for
keeping them lengthened and distended while being acted upon by
chemical fumes, vapors, or gases, whether they are forced through the
fabric by a fan or drawn through the same by a pump.
Fig. 7, is a side elevation of this arrangement; Fig. 8, is a plan,
Fig. 9, a longitudinal section, and Fig. 10, an end elevation thereof.
A, A, is a framework of cast-iron. B, B, is a pair of rollers which
may be plain, engraved, or rough, as desired, to suit the various kinds
of material to be operated upon thereby. C, C, is another pair of
rollers, upon the axles of which toothed wheels D, D, are keyed on
one side, and a driving pulley E, on the axis of one of the rollers on
the opposite side thereof. F, F, is a third pair of rollers, on the axis
of one of which a fast and a loose pulley G, G, is fitted, and by means

page_text: of which it can be driven and its motion destroyed at pleasure. H‚Ì‚
is a series of clips, each division of which is attached to an endless
band of vulcanized india-rubber or other elastic material, and is capable
of travelling around the guides I, I, which guides are bolted together
on either side and connected by means of the bars J, J. The distance
between the respective sets of clips on either side may be regulated by
the right and left handed set screws k, k. The pressure which the
rollers B, B, exert upon fabrics when passing between the same may be
regulated by the weighted lever L, L'. The hot air, or chemical fumes,
vapours, or gases to be employed therein is first received into the
box M, and from thence is caused to act upon fabrics to be treated
therewith by means of the perforated pipes N. The several working
parts of the machine are actuated by suitable screws, and work in
brasses, as shewn in the Drawings.
The mode of operation is as follows:-The distance between the re-
spective sets of clips on either side, and the weight upon the rollers
B, B, is first adapted to the material to be treated or elongated. The
fabric is then entered into the machine by means of an "end cloth;"
and as it passes out, after being clongated or treated with chemical
fumes, vapours, or gases, is wound on to a suitable "box" or roller.
The whole of the clips are enclosed in a suitable casing, and an aper-
ture is left in the bottom of the same, or in any other convenient part
thereof, for carrying off any deleterious matters or vapours resulting
from the chemical agents employed therein. In some cases the aëriform
or gaseous fluids or chemical fumes may be generated from suitable
chemical matters placed within the machine or apparatus, and be
caused to act upon textile fabrics placed therein.
In the accompanying Drawings we have not represented any me-
chanical arrangements for drawing fumes or aëriform or gaseous fluids
through textile materials. This may, however, be effected by exhaust-
ing the air from a chamber placed beneath the same by means of an
ordinary air pump, or by centrifugal force. Also, the said vapors or
gases may be caused to circulate through convenient passages, so as
to be employed several times in the said apparatus.
When textile materials are to be treated according to the several

page_text: parts of our said Invention, the same may be effected by synchronous
operations or separately, as desired.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Green, on behalf of
myself and of the said Isaac Bury, have hereunto set my hand
and seal; this Twenty-seventh day of March, in the year of our 5
Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-four.
WILLIAM GREEN. (L.S.)