Improvements in the Manufacture and Application of Forms for Collars, Cuffs, Waistbands, and similar articles.
Year: 1890

page_text: Date of Application, 9th Oct., 1890-Accepted, 15th Nov., 1890
í
VOALT DIE DI MUIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture and Application of Forms for
Collars, Cuffs, Waistbands, and similar articles.
I, HARRIETT MARthia Small, of 48 King's Road, Brownswood Park, Middlesex, N.
Dressmaker, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement :-
This invention relates to the manufacture of forms, or shapes, that are used for
the collars of dresses. These forms, may also be used for cuffs, waistbands and
similar articles. The principal use of the forms comprised in this invention is for
ladies dresses, or mantles, but they may be applied to other purposes.
In making a dress, or body, or jacket, that is to have a collar of a definite
shape, the difficulty which at present exists is most felt when the collar is stitched
to the dress, so as to be a part of it. For in each dress, the cutting out of the
collar is made without any pattern to go by. Therefor it comes to pass that the
collars for no two dresses are made exactly alike. They are more or less made by
guesswork.
To enable a dress to be furnished with a collar that is of a particular shape, for
instance, of a fashionable shape, in which the preciso form, or shape, or set, is of
the utmost importance, the form which is the subject of this invention is resorted
to, the object of the invention being to ensure exactly similar conditions to exist
in any number of collars in relation to their shape, stiffness and set. By this invention
a collar form may be purchased and the collar may be made in the most exact way,
according to this form.
The form itself consists of canvas, buckram, muslin, wire gauze, cardboard or other
suitable material having the requisite stiffness. To still further increase the stiffness,
without increasing the thickness of the form, parchment, glue, or gum may be used.
To prevent the form from cutting through the covering fabric, it is preferably bound
on the edge.
The form may be cut out by means of dies, shears or other cutting instruments
operated by machinery or by hand. This manufacture is accomplished on the practical
scale by stamping, cutting or shearing a great number of shapes at one cutting; thus
ensuring exact similarity of form to a great number at one operation. According to
another plan the form can be woven in the required shape without any further cutting
out, the exact similarity of shape being ensured untill the loom is altered to permit of
the weaving of another shape.
A fine wire helical spring like a check spring, may be sewn on to the edge of the
collar form to make it pliable and to keep it perfectly in regularity and evenness of
shape when worn.
When the collar is not stitched to the dress, the form can be provided with hooks
for attaching to eyes on the dress. To attach the hooks to the forin, a piece of narrow
tape is stitched a little distance in from its edge; the tape is necessary for cross
stitching, in order to keep the material with which the form is covered quite firm
and steady on the form. Any form may be encased like the encasing of a steel stay
busk.
The dress cuffs may be constructed on forms in a similar manner to the
collars, so as to afford the same regularity and uniformity of shape to them as to
the collars.
The waistbands are also made upon forms of the same kind as those used for
collars.
The collars, cuffs, and waistband of a dress, being a set of articles in one design,
are thus equally furnished with the advantages of the forms which are generally made
by machinery and are the principal feature of this invention.

page_text: Having fully described the said invention and the manner of performing the same,
1 claim -
1. A collar form or shape, made of suitable material, and in a sufficient number at
one operation, to afford exact similarity of shape, by weaving, or by a tool or tools
that, when desired, will always give the same shape, and thus give the same character
to the dress, substantially as herein described.
2. The use of a fine wire helical spring sewn on to the edge of the collar form, for
the purpose set forth and substantially as herein described.
3. Binding the edge of the form to prevent cutting through the covering material,
as substantially herein described.
4. Stitching a piece of narrow tape substantially as herein described for cross
stitching, whether hooks are used or not, for the purpose set forth.
5. A form for dress cuffs constructed in a similar manner to that set forth for
collars, and of similar material, if desired bound on the edge and furnished with a
piece of narrow tape for cross stitching, substantially as herein described,
6. A form for a waistband, constructed in a similar manner to that set forth for
collars, and of similar material, if desired having a helical spring to give it pliability
and perfection of form, and if desired bound on the edge, and furnished with a piece
of narrow tape for cross stitching, substantially as herein described.
Dated this 9th day of October 1890.
HARRIETT MARTHIA SMALL.