Year: 1898

page_text: FABRIK FÜR SPEZIALNÄHMASCHINEN, A.G., (Patente Julius Gutmann), of Zurich,
Switzerland, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement:-
This invention relates to a process and machine by which seams of greatly varying
curves or figures can be produced in a curved seam sewing machine automatically
instead of working the mechanism by hand as heretofore.
In the accompanying drawing Fig. 1 is a side view of a sewing machine of the
kind referred to with the invention applied thereto and Fig. 2 shews a modified
construction of a portion of the mechanism.
Hitherto the working of the mechanism has been effected by hand from a crank H
this communicating the required motion through bevel toothed gearing R spindle
W, and wheels R1, R2, to the cylinder C with the catcher mechanism and through
wheels R3, R4, R, and spindles C1, C2, to the needle rod.
Obviously the crank can never be operated by hand with the precision that is
desired for the correct formation of curved or figured seams and therefore the
object of this invention is to give to the crank or to its spindle and to the rest of
the mechanism a sure automatic and consequently a thoroughly precise movement.
For this purpose a pattern disc or pattern cam M is mounted on the vertical
part of the machine frame and is adapted to be rotated from the main spindle V
of the machine by means of any suitable mechanism. Against the pattern dise M
presses a roller carried by the arm h of a double lever mounted to oscillate on a
pin a. In the rotation of the pattern disc the arm of said double lever performs
an oscillating movement which is transmitted through a toothed sector Z and spur
pinion S to turn a pulley K and from this latter through a chain or band to a
pulley K fixed on the spindle of the crank H thereby actuating said crank and
with it the aforesaid bevel toothed wheels.
In Fig. 2 the lever arm h¹ is shewn linked to a rack rod which is guided in
a bracket L and transmits the desired motion through spur pinion to the crank
11

page_text: The means shewn, by way of example, for operating the pattern disc, comprise a
ratchet wheel U fixed to said disc and rotated from the main spindle through a
cam T on the same, a link P engaging by a projecting pin in said cam so as to be
set in oscillating motion upon a pin P fixed in the machine frame, a rod p through
which the motion of the link is transmitted to the double lever p¹, 22, and a spring
pressed pawle jointed to the arm and engaging and operating the ratchet wheel
which with the pattern disc is thus caused to rotate. The stroke of the lever p¹, p²,
may be varied by altering the point of attachment of the rod p in the link Por
in the arm 2¹.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we claim
is:-
1. The process for the production of curved or winding seams in different figures
automatically, by means of a sewing machine, substantially as described and shewn.
2. A machine for the performance of the process referred to, in which the needles
and the catchers or shuttles are turned from a pattern dise or cam disc or the like
simultaneously and in the same direction, substantially as described and shewn.
Dated this 11th day of November 1898.
CAPITAINE & Vox HERTLING,
15, Tooks Court, London, E.C. Agents for the Applicants.