Improvements in the Manufacture of Welted Boots and Shoes.
Year: 1895

page_text: Date of Application, 28th Nov., 1895
Complete Specification Left. 28th Aug., 1896-Accepted, 31st Oct., 1896
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Welted Boots and Shoes.
I, ARTHUR BOSTOCK c/o Edwin Bostock, of Stafford, in the County of
Stafford, Shoe Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be
as follows:-
My invention relates to an improved method of making the insoles used in the
manufacture of welted boots and shoes.
In the ordinary process of manufacture of boots and shoes as hitherto employed,
the shoulder or lip (called the hold) to which the upper leather and welt are sewn
is formed of the substance of the insole itself by cutting or grooving the same,
which in some cases is disadv
dvantageous.
According to my invention I avoid the necessity of cutting or grooving the
insole by taking an ordinary insole, and attaching thereto, around the edges, by
stitching with a sewing machine, or in any other suitable and convenient manner,
a rand or strip of leather or other material, placed in such a position that the upturned
edge of the said rand forms a shoulder or lip to which the upper leather and welt
are sewn. In some cases the rand or strip is formed with a bead at the edge.
The said raud or strip affords a sufficient and reliable hold for the welt seam on
an insole which is too thin for a hold to be obtained in the substance of the insole
by other methods now in use. The advantage of using a very thin insole is
obviously to give to the boot or shoe increased lightness and flexibility. I prefer
to fill up the space between the insole and the sole by means of cork or other light
and flexible material.
Dated this 28th day of November 1895
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
45 Southampton Buildings, London, W.C., Agents for the Applicant.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Welted Boots and Shoes.
I, ARTHUR BOSTOCK c/o Edwin Bostock, of Stafford, in the County of
Stafford, Shoe Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and
in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement:-
My invention relates to an improved method of making the insoles used in the
manufacture of welted boots and shoes.
In the ordinary process of manufacture of boots and shoes as hitherto carried
out, the shoulder or lip (called the hold) to which the upper leather and welt are
sewn, is formed of the substance of the insole itself by cutting or grooving the
same, which in some cases is disadvantageous.
According to my invention I avoid the necessity of cutting or grooving the
insole, by taking an insole, say, of thin Persian skin backed with linen drill, and
attaching thereto, around the edge, by stitching with a sewing machine, or in any
other suitable and convenient manner, a rand or strip of leather or other material,

page_text: placed in such a position that the upturned edge of the said rand forms a shoulder
or lip to which the upper leather and welt are sewn.
Referring to the accompanying drawings:
Figure 1 is an inverted plan of the insole with the rand or strip stitched
thereto in accordance with my invention, the stitches being near the outer edge
of the rand.
Figure 2 is a similar view of a modification in which the stitches are near the
inner edge of the rand.
Figure 3 is a transverse section of an insole provided with a rand in accordance
with Figure 1 and showing on one side of it the way in which the upper and welt
are attached to the rand; and
Figure 4 is a similar transverse section of the modification where the rand is
stitched near the inner edge.
A is the insole of thin leather, for example Persian skin, which if desired may
be backed with linen drill to prevent stretching of the leather while leaving it
thin and flexible. B is the rand or strip of leather, tape, or other suitable material
attached to the insole by machine stitching or otherwise, its edge 6 forming the lip
to which the upper leather and welt are sewn. This rand in addition forms a
strong feather or border, without which the edge of the insole would be flimsy.
C is the upper. D is the welt. e e are two rows of stitches by which the rand is
attached to the insole. F indicates the course of the needle in sewing together by
one seam the rand, upper, and welt. G is a sheet of cork inserted between the
welt seams for the purpose of making the whole bottom of the boot of the same
level as the under surface of the welt D.
The said rand or strip affords a sufficient and reliable hold for the welt seam on
an insole which is too thin for a hold to be obtained in the substance of the insole
by other methods now in use. The advantage of using a very thin insole, is
obviously to give the boot or shoe increased lightness and flexibility. By its use
also, a considerably greater space than in an ordinary welted boot, is left between
the surfaces of the insole and sole, allowing the insertion of a sheet of cork,
which cannot be placed in an ordinary boot without increasing the apparent
thickness of the sole. This cork filling prevents creaking, and makes the boot
better able to keep in the warmth and more comfortable to the foot.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :- -
My improvements in the manufacture of welted boots and shoes consisting in
providing an insole with a rand or strip stitched or otherwise attached thereto,
substantially as and for the purpose described.
Dated this 28th day of August 1896.
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
45 Southampton Buildings, London, W.C., Agents for the Applicant.