like and Apparatus therefor.
Year: 1885

page_text: .
like and Apparatus therefor.
We BENJAMIN WALTER RUSSELL of Welford Place, Leicester trading in co-
partnership with Benjamin Russell as B. Russell & Son Hosiery Manufacturers,
and THOMAS HUXLEY of the above address Manager to the above firm do hereby
declare the nature of our said invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE
OF CARDIGAN JACKETS AND THE LIKE AND APPARATUS THEREFOR to be as
follows:-
The object of our invention is to make on one frame, preferably the ordinary
Lamb Machine, both the jacket and button border at the same time thus obviating
the necessity of employing two frames as is the present method.
The advantages are obvious.
On the ordinary Lamb frames at present generally used in the manufacture of
Cardigan jackets there is usually a waste space at one or other of the ends of the
Frames and by our invention we utilize this waste space by applying apparatus to
produce simultaneously with the jacket the border of, if necessary, a different style
of Fabric for the button piece thus effecting not only a great saving of time and
labor but also the cost of a Border Frame and the floor space which is an important
item in a Factory.
Given an ordinary Lamb Machine for purposes of illustration--the following may
refer to borders made separate from the body.
Instead of one needle plate on the surface of the machine there will be two-
The smaller one acted upon by the following apparatus may, if necessary, be
applied for the manufacture of the Border fabric and may if necessary be near the
rim or edge of the machine-Attached to the needle plate having a sliding motion
will be a suitable angle piece against which will run the pattern wheel-This
pattern wheel is fixed on a suitable shaft, on the same shaft being a rack appliance
which is worked by a suitable roller travelling on an eccentric which may be
attached to another shaft. The action is obvious. The eccentric acts through the
other apparatus above described directly on the ratchet working the pattern wheel
which may be attached in a convenient position on the machine.

page_text: The pattern wheel may if preferable be a circular Iron plate around the rim of
which may be cut the notches or slits the sizes of which vary according to the
pattern required-The notches or slits being preferably cut from the edge and
directed towards the middle of the plate and the parts so cut are made to incline
inwards or outwards and the pieces so bent when passing against the angle piece
cause the needle plate to which it is affixed to slide to and fro on the surface of the
frame to form the desired pattern.
like and Apparatus therefor.
We BENJAMIN WALTER RUSSELL, trading under the firm of B. W. Russell & Son,
Hosiery Manufacturers, and THOMAS HUXLEY, Manager to the said firm both
of Welford Place, Leicester do hereby declare the nature of this invention for
IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF CARDIGAN JACKETS AND THE LIKE
AND APPARATUS THEREFOR" and in what manner the same is to be performed,
to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
"5
:-
The main object of our Invention is to make on one frame, preferably the
ordinary Lamb inachine, both the jacket and button border at the same time thus
obviating the necessity of employing two frames as is the present method.
The advantages are obvious.
On the ordinary Lamb frame at present generally used in the manufacture of
Cardigan jackets there is usually a waste space at one or other ends of the Frames
and by our Invention we utilize this waste space by applying apparatus to produce
simultaneously with the jacket the border of, if necessary a different style of Fabric
for the button piece thus effecting not only a great saving of time and labor but also
the cost of a Border Frame and the floor space which is an important item in a
Factory.
Given an ordinary Lamb machine for purposes of illustration the following may
refer to borders made separate from the body.

page_text: Instead of one needle plate on the surface of the machine there will be two-
The smaller one is acted upon by the following apparatus, may if necessary be
applied for the manufacture of the Border fabric and will be near the rim or edge
of the machine-Attached to the small needle plate having a sliding motion will be
a suitable angle piece or fork against which will run the pattern wheel, this pattern
wheel is fixed on a suitable shaft, on the same shaft being a ratchet appliance which
is worked by a suitable roller travelling on an eccentric which may be attached to
another shaft-The action is obvious The eccentric acts through the other
apparatus above described directly on the ratchet working the pattern wheel which
may be attached in a convenient position on the machine.
The pattern wheel may if preferable be a circular plate around the rim of which
may be cut the notches or slits the sizes of which vary according to the pattern
required-The notches or slits being preferably cut from the edge and directed
towards the middle of the plate and the parts so cut are made to incline inwards or
outwards and the pieces so bent when passing against the angle piece cause the
needle plate to which it is affixed to slide to and fro on the surface of the frame to
form the desired pattern.
In the accompanying Drawings Figure 1 is a front elevation and Figure 2 an
end elevation of a machine embodying this invention, portions not required for
illustrating this invention being omitted.
Figure 3 shews the under side of the Cam box K with a portion of the guide
rail K¹ of which a portion only is shewn in Figure 1.
Figure 4 shows the portion of the Cam box to which the sliding Cam L is
attached and whereby it is worked.
Figure 5 is a section through a plate O with the Cam L the piece m and the
pin n and shows how these parts are fitted together.
The invention is supposed to be applied to an ordinary Lambs. Machine P being
the making plate or needle bed thereof and K the Carrier or cam box A is the
additional making plate and the Cam box K travels over both P and A-The body
fabric is made on the portion P and the border on the portion A-The principle of
the action of the Cam box and plates is well understood by those skilled in
machines of this kind and need not be described here special features being herein-
after set forth.
The sliding cam L is so arranged that when the Cam box approaches the
plate A a pin L' thereon strikes the projecting arm M fixed to the framework and
is caused to turn on its pivot 7 thus raising the approximately triangular picco m
and altering the stitch for the border.
Figures 3. 4 and 5 will best serve to illustrate this part of the mechanism.
sliding cam L is by a stud / fixed in the cam box on plate O.
The
This plate O lies behind the blocks a a and b c forming the cam groove W and
carries on one side (the back in Figure 3 but the upper side in Figure 4 and when
the cam box is in its place on the machine) the sliding cam L with the cam slot p
and on the other side of this plate is the sliding triangular block m fitted upon the
stud n passing through a vertical slot o¹ in the plate O and into the cam slot p.
From Figures 3. 4 and 5 in conjunction it will be readily understood that when
the cam L is in its vertical position the block m is in its lowest position when cam L
has travelled its full stroke (to the right in Figure 3 and to the left in Figures 4
and 1) the sliding block m has risen has blocked up the rise in the centre of the
cam groove W for the jack-heels and left a straight cam groove for working the
needles. q is a spring which prevents accidental movement of the sliding cam L
and bears on pin L.
On the return course the cam is moved back again so as to adjust the needles
for the fabric stitch by another stop N striking the pin L'.
The blocks a a Figure 3 are adjusted by the studs a' a' Figure 1 as usual and
serve to alter the stitch as will be readily understood.

page_text: The pattern wheel C is carried on a stud or axle projecting from the main framo
of the machine it works in the fork B which conveys motion to the plate A.-C is
driven by the ratchet wheel D firmly connected therewith and operated by the
pawl E jointed to the free end of the lever Q to which is pivotted the link R fitted
with a friction roller R¹. The lever Q is at Q1 fulcrumed on the main frame and
is moved by the link R and roller R¹ which latter bears upon the periphery of the
eccentric Fon the shaft S driven by gearing the ordinary manner.
The movement of the pattern wheel C is adjusted in accordance with the pattern
to be produced.
On referring to the drawings (Figures 1 and 3) it will be seen that the periphery
of the pattern wheel C is so shaped that the projecting parts of the rim of said
wheel striking one or the other branch of the fork B cause the small needle bed A
to shift to or fro or "jog" as requisite in producing the usual "border fabric."
As is well known the back plate or the bed for the covering needles is racked to
and fro for the production of the "welt" of the jacket.
As however this motion is not desirable for the "border-fabric" a small back
independent of the usual main portion is provided so as to correspond with the
plate A and by this means the racking for the welt can take place without in any
way affecting the production of border fabric.-The arrangement of the supple-
mentary back plate corresponds exactly with and is parallel to that of the plate A
and requires no further description.
There are two rollers upon which the material produced is wound T receives the
fabric and is carried on the shaft T¹ fitted with a ratchet wheel T operated by
the pawl T3 jointed to the rod I The latter is worked by an eccentric I¹ in a
similar manner to that previously described with reference to the pattern wheel
mechanism. H receives the border and is carried on a sleeve H which carries the
ratchet wheel H2 and is driven by a pawl which is also jointed to the rod I similarly
to the arrangement for the roller T The roller H for winding up the border is thus
entirely separate from and independent of the roller T which receives the fabric. H³
shows the stop pawls which prevent return motion of the ratchet wheels T2 and H2.
In making the machine ready for work a suitable number of Thread carriers
together with the usual stops for causing the clamp on the cam box to grip and
release the same are fitted to the rails.-As a rule we mount five thread carriers
three as usual for the jacket and two for making two strips of border fabric.
We need not enter into an explanation about the manufacture of the jacket
suffice to say that when the cam box has advanced so far on the course (from left
to right in Figure 1) that the pin L¹ on the cam L strikes the stop or arm M, the
last thread carrier for the Jacket is released and the first of those for the border
fabric is clamped and brought into operation.
The machine now makes one course in each of the strips of the border fabric and
completes the same in the early part of the return motion (from right to left in
Figure 1). The return course is made throughout with the sliding cam thrown
aside and the triangular piece m in its upper position.
When the cam box K once more reaches the other (left) end of the machine the
cam L with its pin L¹ strikes against the stop N and the operations recommence.
It will thus be seen that the machine simultaneously makes three independent
pieces of fabric one is the jacket the other two being border fabric in such quantity
as will more or less accurately suffice for the jacket made simultaneously therewith.
The action of the needles and the patterns that may be produced are too well
understood to require explanation.
We may also increase the width of the supplementary needle bed beyond the
proportions shown in the drawings and make proportionately broader pieces than
merely narrow strips for button borders.
It will be equally possible to simply slip the supplementary plate up to the
main plate and use the two together to make one fabric of greater width than the
main plate alone would allow of.

page_text: Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what
we claim is
1. In a knitting machine the combination with the ordinary needle bed P of the
supplemental needle bed A for the purpose of making one or more separate borders
for the fabric or fabrics in course of production upon the bed P substantially as
specified.
2. In the apparatus described the combination with the ordinary cam box K of
the sliding cam L and block m whereby the shape of the cam groove W and the
throw of the needles is automatically varied substantially as specified.
BENJAMIN WALTER RUSSELL.
THOMAS HUXLEY.