AN IMPROVED MANUFACTURE OF LACE OR TULLE BY MEANS OF BOBBIN-NET OR TULLE LACE MACHINES AND APPARATUS FOR THAT PURPOSE to be as follows
Year: 1884

page_text: PROVIDIONAL
DI LUIFICATION
I, CHARLES DENTON ABEL of N° 28 Southampton Buildings, Chancery Lane
in the county of Middlesex, Consulting Engineer and Patent Agent, do hereby
declare the nature of this invention for "AN IMPROVED MANUFACTURE OF LACE
OR TULLE BY MEANS OF BOBBIN-NET OR TULLE LACE MACHINES AND APPARATUS
FOR THAT PURPOSE to be as follows:-
33
This invention relates to an improved method of manufacturing lace or tulle,
whether with open or full ground on ordinary bobbin-net lace machines, wherein
the bobbin threads are entirely dispensed with; the fabric being produced by warp
and weft threads in combination with a carriage of peculiar construction to be
presently described, which effects, the twisting or entwining of the weft threads
round the warp threads, producing a fabric of equal strength in every direction,
which result cannot be otherwise obtained, except by using threads that travel
considerably between the warp threads, which has the inconvenience of producing a
very thick fabric.
The following description will enable the manner of carrying out the invention
to be readily understood.
Fig. 1 of the drawings shews one of the carriages employed. The body C is
solid, as it does not receive a bobbin (existing carriages with holes for bobbins may
however be utilised for the purpose); on its upper face is fixed or formed a needle-
like extension C, which, in traversing through the warp threads, catches the weft
threads in loops and entwines them round the former.
Thus, in figs A, B, 4 is the entwining thread and 1 and 3 the entwined threads,
2 is the tying-in thread, of which more than one can be used, as shewn in the
diagrams A B and CD. In figs. C and D, 1 is the entwining thread, and 2 and 4
the entwined threads, 3 being the tying-in thread.
Figs. E F shew that in increasing the number of movements a great number of
variations of the entwining motions can be obtained. At G H is shewn the manner
of cording for taffeta, as it indicates the possibility of making all the others, there
077

page_text: being threads which, in passing either above or below the carriage, are situated
above or below the weft. It will be readily understood that in causing several
warp threads to be passed above, floated warp threads will be obtained, while in
causing such threads to be passed below, floated weft threads will be obtained; also
that the work can be done either before or after the entwining, or both before and
after the entwining, as the example G H shews the taffeta formed after the
entwining and a floated weft before the entwining. Of course, the floated weft
covers the taffeta, which shews the possibility of making not only single cordings
but also superposed cordings.
In the example G H, there are four straight warp threads to each carriage, and
also one weft thread working transversely for each carriage. The work may be
performed, according to the cordings, either with two, three, or more carriages.
The weft threads can travel.over a greater or less number of carriages and can be
of any desired different colors, which permits of tinted designs being employed, as
between each weft thread the colors may be made to travel between the warp
according to the requirements of the design, and the colors that are at rest can,
according to their numbers, be made to work with the warp either above or below
the weft. This does, however, not prevent the use of figuring threads entirely in
front which can then be floated considerable distances, either to the right or to the
left, or in passing beneath the weft together with the warp, or in entwining
themselves like the weft, or in being entwined like the warp.
In the examples given, the entwining threads are above, below, and between the
warp threads; the entwining can be effected on one or on several warp threads,
according to the cordings. By means of this system of entwining, the strength of
the work on the entwined threads can be increased at will, as shewn in the
examples at figs. C and D.
The loops that are formed by the carriages either above or below the fabric can
be either cut off short or they can be hidden by means either of the weft or the
warp threads, thus embodying the loops in the fabric, which will consequently be
rendered thicker thereby. The loops may also be utilised for producing a pile,
affording a velvety or plush like appearance; they may be made of greater or less
length, according as the action of the carriages is modified.
A peculiarity of this invention consists in the arrangement of the weft thread
between the warp thread as indicated by tho numbering at figs. G H, though a
different mode of numbering may be employed, according to the design to be
produced, and the cording employed.

page_text: COMPLETE
SPECIFICATION.
I, CHARLES DENTON ADEL of N° 28 Southampton Buildings, Chancery Lane,
in the county of Middlesex Consulting Engineer and Patent Agent do hereby
declare the nature of my invention for "AN IMPROVED MANUFACTURE OF LACE
OR TULLE BY MEANS OF BOBBIN-NET OR TULLE LACE MACHINES AND APPARATUS
33
FOR THAT PURPOSE and in what manner the same is to be performed to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
This invention relates to an improved method of manufacturing lace or tulle,
whether with open or full ground, on ordinary bobbin-net or tulle machines,
wherein the bobbin threads are entirely dispensed with, the fabric being produced
by warp and weft threads in combination with a carriage of peculiar construction
to be presently described, which effects the twisting or entwining of the weft.
threads round the warp threads, producing a fabric of equal strength in every"
direction.
The following description will enable the manner of carrying out the invention to
be readily understood. Fig. 1 of the drawings shews one of the carriages employed.
The body C is solid, as it does not receive a bobbin (existing carriages with holes for
bobbins may however be utilised for the purpose ;) on its upper post is fixed or
formed a stem terminating in a flexible needle-like extension a which, in traversing
through the warp threads, catches some of these in loops and entwines them round
the others as weft threads.
This invention is carried out on the ordinary bobbin-net or tulle machines
without any alterations beyond the following:
1, There are no bobbin threads employed.
2, The work is produced solely by means of warp threads, which, as is well
known, pass through holes in the guide bars having an alternating motion at right
angles to that of the carriages, some of the warp threads being made to act as weft
threads.
3, The carriages, as before stated, have no bobbins, but are provided with
needles which in passing between the warp threads catch some of these and
interlace them as weft threads with the others, thus forming a very strong fabric.
4, The work carried out by this means is somewhat analogous to the operation
of knitting by means of several threads and needles.
In the various figures on the drawing, which represent diagrams of various
examples of the work, the "motions" with uneven numbers indicate the carriages
arrived on the back comb and the "motions with even numbers, the carriages
arrived on the front comb.
Not only tissues can be produced without the bobbin thread, but also all kinds of
lace, inasmuch as by giving more or less tension either to the warp threads or to
the weft threads that are entwined round them, the tresses or loops can be led in
any direction.
It is to be understood that in the several examples given, number 1 serves a
lacing thread, that is to say, the thread which is removed after the fabric has been

page_text: completed. Of course this thread instead of bearing the number 1, which places it
at the back, could have a higher number which would place it in front. There
may be retaining threads beneath the carriage which in that case are retained upon
the back warp threads Nos 2 and 3.
In Fig. A B, 4 is the entwining thread and 1 an 3 are the entwined threads, 2 is
the retaining thread, of which more than one can be used; it acts either to the
right or to the left, or there may be two, one acting to the right and the other to
the left, in the one sense or the other as shewn in the diagrams A and B on the one
hand and C and D on the other hand.
In Figs. C and D, 1 is the entwining thread, and 2 and 4 the entwined threads,
3 being the retaining thread. Figs. ef shew that in increasing the number of
movements a great number of variations of the entwining motions can be obtained.
At GH is shewn the manner of cording for taffeta, as it indicates the possibility of
making all the others, there being threads which, in passing either above or below
the carriage are situated above or below the weft. It will be readily understood
that in causing several warp threads to be passed above, floated warp threads will
be obtained, while in causing such threads to be passed below, floated weft threads
will be obtained; also that the "work" can be done either before or after the
entwining, or both before and after the entwining, as the example G H shews, the
taffeta formed after the entwining and a floated weft before the entwining. Of
course the floated weft covers the taffeta, which shews the possibility of making
not only simple cordings, but also superposed cordings.
In the example G H there are 4 straight warp threads to each carriage, and also
one weft thread working transversely for each carriage.
The work may be
performed, according to the cordings, either at every two three or more carriages.
The weft threads can travel over a greater or less number of carriages and can
be of any desired different colors, which permits of tinted designs being employed,
as between each weft thread the colors may be made to travel between the warp
according to the requirements of the design, and the colors that are at rest can,
according to their numbers, be made to work with the warp, either above or below
the weft. This does however not prevent the use of figuring threads entirely in
front, which can then be floated considerable distances, either to the right or to the
left or in passing beneath the weft together with the warp, or in entwining
themselves like the weft or in being entwined like the warp. It will be readily
understood from the above examples that lace can be produced, as in always
operating with the same carriage, loops are formed which can be made to travel at
will from one carriage to another.
In the examples given the entwining threads are above, below, and between the
warp threads; the entwining can be effected on one or on several warp threads,
according to the cordings, by entwining at one time upon one set and at another
time on the other set.
By means of this system of entwining the strength of the work on the entwined
threads can be increased at will as shewn in the examples given.
The loops that are formed by the carriages either above or below the fabric can
be either cut off short or they can be hidden, by means either of the weft or the
warp threads, thus embodying the loops in the fabric, which will consequently be
rendered thicker thereby. The loops may also be utilised for producing a pile,
affording a velvety or plush like appearance; they may be made of greater or less
length, according as the action of the carriages is modified.
A peculiarity of this invention consists in the arrangement of the weft threads
between the warp threads as indicated by the numbering at Figs. GH, though a
different mode of numbering may be employed, according to the design to be
produced and the cording employed.
In the example at Fig I J, which corresponds to the cording of taffeta, the
thread 1 is twined round the needles of the carriages, as shown at the "work"
of this example; the weft threads attach themselves to this thread.

page_text: Fig. 2 shews a cross section of a bobbin-net or tulle machine with the carriages
provided with needles and without bobbins.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is
1, The herein described improved manufacture of lace or net fabrics by means of
bobbin-net or tulle machines wherein certain of the warp threads acting as weft
threads are twisted or entwined round the other warp threads, without the use of
bobbin threads.
2, The use for the manufacture of net or lace referred to in the preceding claim
of carriages provided with needles or equivalent devices for effecting the entwining
of the weft threads substantially as herein described.
3, The use of the retaining threads numbered 2 in Figs. A and B, and numbered 3
in Figs C and D of the drawings.
4, The use of a thread twining round the needles a of the carriages C to to
which thread the weft threads attach themselves, substantially as herein described.
5, The production of net or lace fabrics with open or full ground having weft
threads twisted or twined round warp threads, without the use of bobbin threads
substantially as herein described.