Improvements in the Means of Attaching the Facings, Collars, and Pockets of India Rubber Waterproof Garments.
Year: 1894

page_text: Date of Application, 2nd Apr., 1894-Accepted, 1st Sept., 1894
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Means of Attaching the Facings, Collars, and
Pockets of India Rubber Waterproof Garments.
I BARNET GLASS of 16 and 18 Queensberry Street, North Melbourne in the
Colony of Victoria, Waterproof Garment Manufacturer do hereby declare the
nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to
be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
This invention relates to improved means of attaching the several parts of
india rubber waterproof garments such as the facings, collar, pockets, and the
non-conductor or bottom facings to the main piece or body of the garment in such
a manner that the joint between any of such parts and the main piece will be
watertight and secure. In each case I attach the parts to the main piece mainly
by stitching and hence they will not be liable to be torn off as is the case when the
connection with the main piece is made solely with india rubber solution, cement,
or other adhesive material.
The india rubber waterproof material from which this class of garments are
usually made is of double texture, that is, there are two layers of textile fabric
with the india rubber spread between them and it is by reason of such form of
manufacture that I am enabled to stitch the facing and bindings or non-conductor
facings to the main piece without the stitches passing right through the main piece.
To accomplish this, I open up or strip the inner layer of cloth or fabric to the
requisite width from the edge where the facings or linings are to be placed and
then stitch them to it in the manner hereinafter fully explained and when such is
done the inner layer is again preferably secured with india rubber solution or other
cement upon the part from which it has been stripped or lifted. In order to be
able to lift or strip the inner layer of cloth I moisten it with a sponge or cloth
that has been soaked with naptha. The collar pieces are stitched direct to the
main piece of the garment and then each piece is turned or folded upwards over
the line of stitches, after their inner surfaces above the seams have been coated
with india rubber solution to secure them together and make the joint waterproof,
when afterwards the collar is completed, thus it will be observed that in my
invention the collar is made up in position upon the garment, and not as ordinarily,
that is made first and afterwards stitched to the garment. The pocket pieces are
also indirectly stitched to the main piece of garment by means which will be
hereinafter fully explained but the stitches that shew on the outer surface of the
garment are covered by the waterproof pocket covers and as the latter are secured
down with india rubber solution or other cement the said seam is made thoroughly
waterproof.
Fig. 1 of the attached drawings shews the inside view of a cloak or coat A being
the facing, B the collar, C the pocket, D the lower non-conductor facing and E the
main piece of the garment, such coat being shewn simply to enable the position of
the seams and parts to be readily understood and not in any way to indicate that
I desire to be limited to any pattern form or design of garment in the manufacture
of which I may embody my improvements.
In all the following detail views the parts are shewn enlarged from Fig. 1 and
also the parts are somewhat exaggerated to shew clearly the folds seams and
stitches.
Figs. 2, 3, and 4 are sections through the facing the latter as it would appear
at 2-2 in Fig. 1. E is the main piece of the garment and e the inner layer of
cloth as opened out or stripped from the main piece, e' the layer of rubber between
the inner and outer textile fabrics. A is the facing shewn stitched to the inner
parte at a when afterwards it is turned or folded over as shewn partially at Fig. 3

page_text: and completely over at Fig. 4 to bring it to its proper position to serve as a facing.
If so desired another row of stitches can be made at a¹ (see Figs. 3 and 4) through
the inner edge of facing A and the inner cloth e after the facing has been turned
over so as to secure them well together and and also to give a better appearance or
finish on the inside of the garment. The inner cloth I then prefer to fix down or
secure upon its original surface with india rubber solution or other cement when
afterwards the outer or free edge of the facings may be stitched up or bound and
finished as ordinarily.
In Fig. 5 I shew an alternative method for fixing the facings the facing piece A
in this case being stitched at a to the thin inner layer of cloth e whilst the facing
is lying at its proper position above the cloth e and consequently it does not require
to be turned over as is done in Figs. 3 and 4. When the facing joint is made as
shewn in Fig. 5 the fixed edge of the facing may be covered with a binding A¹
which can either have one line of stitches a in it as shewn in Fig. 6 or it may have
2 lines of stitches a and a¹ as shewn in Fig. 7 such stitches as before passing
through the facing A and piece e as well as through said binding, also in this
alternative form of joint it is preferred to cement or secure the piece e at its
original position upon the main piece E when the facing joint is completed.
In Figs. 8 and 9 1 shew a section through the collar, in Fig. 9 as it would appear
at the line 3-3 cf Fig. 1. The collar B is formed of two pieces of material B and B¹
one placed at each side of and stitched at f to the top edge of the main piece E of
the garment as shewn in Fig. 8. then when it is so far completed the pieces B and B¹
are lifted upwards and laid against each other as shewn in Fig. 9; a coating of the
rubber solution having been first laid over the rows of stitching 'so that when
pressed together the solution fills the holes formed by the stitches and also makes
a watertight or waterproof connection between the two parts. The top edge of the
collar can be stitched, bound and finished off as ordinarily.
Fig. 10 is a section at 4. 4. of Fig. 1 showing the means devised for securing the
pocket piece or cover c to the main piece E of garment, the piece C is stitched
at e to a silicia or other lining C', and then the latter is stitched at c¹ through the
lining C² and through the main piece E, the last named row of stitches C₁ being
the outermost and not directly opposite the stitches c consequently when the free
marginal part or width of the piece C is secured down with india rubber solution
or cement the said line of stitches c¹ will be covered and a perfectly waterproof
joint the result although the pocket is practically stitched to the main body of the
garment, consequently with ordinary usage it will be impossible to tear off the
pocket cover as is the case when it is simply secured with solution nor will it be
likely to come off by the solution becoming decomposed in hot climates. The
outer edge of the pocket piece may be bound as shewn at C³ Fig. 10 if so
desired.
In Figs. 11 and 12 I shew the means I employ for securing the non-conductor
facings D to the lower edges of the garment or cape or at the sleeve wrists.
Fig. 12 being a section at line 5-5 of Fig. 1. The non-conductor facing D
consists preferably of an india rubber single texture material and it is attached to
the main piece E in the same manner as the coat facings A, the non-conductor
piece D being as shewn in Fig. 11 first stitched at a to the inner cloth or fabric e
which has been stripped from the main piece as hereinbefore described then it is
turned over downwards towards the lower or outer edge after the meeting surfaces
have been coated with the solution or cement when afterwards its tree outer edge
is hemmed or finished in any ordinary manner.
Although I have described my inprovements as applicable to india waterproof
garments, I wish it understood that the improvements relating to the facings
could be applied to any double texture waterproof material which can be stripped.
CLAIMS.
1. In india rubber waterproof varments a facing such
36
A stitched at u
or

page_text: freed part having its surface preferably reunited to the surface from which it was
lifted by india rubber solution or other cement, the stitched joint being made
either as shewn in Figs. 2. 3. and 4, or 5, 6, and 7 of my drawings and substantially
as herein described.
2. In india rubber waterproof garments a collar formed of two pieces or strips
of material such as B and B' placed one at each side of and stitched to the upper
edge or neck of garment at the rows of stitches being then coated with india
rubber solution or cement and the two pieces afterwards upturned and pressed
together substantially as herein described and in the manner illustrated in
Figs. 8 and 9 of my drawings.
3. In india rubber waterproof garments a pocket piece or cover such as C
stitched at c to a lining C₁ the latter also being stitched at cel along with outer
lining C to the main piece of garment such lines of stitches not being opposite
one another so that when the margin of piece C is secured down with india
rubber solution or cement, seam C₁ is covered and a watertight joint between
the parts ensured substantially as herein described and in the manner illustrated
in Fig. 10 of my drawings.
4. In india rubber waterproof garments a non conductor facing such as D
stitched at a along its upper edge to the inner stripped or freed part e of the
main garment and then turned over and preferably stuck with india-rubberi'or
other cement substantially as herein described and in the manner illustrated in
Figs. 11 and 12 of my drawings.