IMPROVED MA- CHINERY FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF TERRY OR CUT-PILE FABRICS, PARTS OF WHICH ARE APPLICABLE TO THE WEAVING OF OTHER FABRICS."
Year: 1853

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Robert Moore Sievier, of Louviers, in the
Empire of France, but now residing at Manchester, in the County
of Lancaster, Manufacturer, for the Invention of "IMPROVED MA-
CHINERY FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF TERRY OR CUT-PILE FABRICS, PARTS
OF WHICH ARE APPLICABLE TO THE WEAVING OF OTHER FABRICS."
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Robert Moore
Sievier at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his
Petition, on the 20th August 1853.
I, ROBERT MOORE SIEVIER, do hereby declare the nature of the said
Invention for "IMPROVED MACHINERY FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF TERRY OR
CUT-PILE FABRICS, PARTS OF WHICH ABE APPLICABLE TO THE WEAVING OF
OTHER FABRICS," to be as follows:-
It is well known that the description of fabrics known as terry or
cut-pile fabrics are of such a nature as to require for their manufac-
ture machinery of a complicated description when such fabrics are
intended to be woven by power.
The mechanical arrangements for introducing and withdrawing.the
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page_text: wires required in the manufacture of terry or cut-pile fabrics have
hitherto necessarily complicated the mechanism of these parts.
The object of the present Invention is by a novel arrangement, con-
struction, and mode of operating these parts to considerably simplify
them, and render them less liable to derangement while working. The
first improvement relates to the arrangement and construction of the
slay and shuttle boxes, and consists in separating these two parts, which
have hitherto always been connected together.
The slay, consisting of the shuttle, race, reed, and their appendages,
is mounted on the lay swords, and is actuated, as usual, by means of a
crank or excentric; but the shuttle boxes, although mounted on arms
working on the same centres below, are detached from the lay, and re-
main stationary while the lay beats up the weft. The shuttle boxes
are capable of & slight independent movement, so that when the lay
moves back it may at nearly the end of the back stroke carry the
shuttle boxes back with it for a short distance, during which time the
shuttle is thrown-along the race.
This improvement is also applicable to looms for weaving other
fabrics, and will be found advantageous by reducing the weight of the
batten, which will consequently require less power to work it. The
wiring apparatus used in weaving terry fabrics is also separate from and
works altogether independent of the lay. It will therefore only be
necessary to give it a simple "picking" motion for introducing and
withdrawing the wire, instead of a complicated compound motion to
make it advance and recede in accordance with the motions of the
batten.
The next improvement relates to the means of cutting asunder two
pieces of cloth which have been woven together face to face according
to the plan already patented by me. One great difficulty hitherto
experienced in cutting asunder such double fabrics has been found to
be the difficulty of keeping the knife or cutting instrument exactly in
the centre or equidistant between the two pieces. This I effect by
causing the edge of the knife or cutting instrument to protrude from
between two lips, which will act as guides to the fabric as well as the
knife. One part of the fabric as it is cut passes over and the other
under the lips or guides, and therefore ensures the correct operation of

page_text: the knife. This object may also be effected by a modification of the
above, in which, instead of causing the edge of the knife to protrude
from between the lips, it is made to work behind the projecting points
of a set of guides, which will enter the cloth in front of the knife and
5. open the double fabric and prepare it for the operation of the knife.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters.
Patent, filed by the said Robert Moore Sievier in the Great
Seal Patent Office on the 20th February 1854.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I,
ROBERT MOORE SIEVIER, of Louviers, in the Empire of France, but
now residing at Manchester, in the County of Lancaster, Manufacturer,
send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Twentieth day of August, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-three, in the seven-
teenth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors,.
give and grant unto me, the said Robert Moore Sievier, Her special
license that I, the said Robert Moore Sievier, my executors, adminis-
trators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Robert Moore
Sievier, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time
agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times there-
after during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might
make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an In-
vention for "IMPROVED MACHINERY FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF TERRY OF
CUT-PILE FABRICS, PARTS OF WHICH ARE APPLICABLE TO THE WEAVING OF
OTHER FABRICS," upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said
Robert Moore Sievier, by an instrument in writing under my hand and
seal, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said
Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and
cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within
six calendar mouths next and immediately after the date of the said
Letters Patent.

page_text: NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Robert Moore Sievier, do
hereby declare the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and acer-
tained in and by the following statement, reference being had to tlic
Drawings hereunto annexed, and to the letters and figures marked
thereon (that is to say):
The object of these improvements in machinery for the manufacture
of terry or cut-pile fabrics is to produce such fabrics with groater
expedition and perfection than as hitherto been done by looms using a
wire or tag, and which loom may be made also applicable to other
purposes.
These improvements, therefore, relate, firstly, to the construction of
the lay or batten, and consist in separating the two parts or ends where
the shuttle boxes are situated from the central part in which the reed
is placed. Secondly, to the construction and application to a loom of
an arrangement of apparatus for introducing and withdrawing the
terry or other wires from the fabrics as they are being woven.
Thirdly, to an arrangement of machinery for cutting or separating into
two pieces of cloth a fabric when woven together as a double cloth,
and afterwards cut asunder or separated, whether such cutting or sepa-
rating be effected during the operation of weaving the said fabrics or
otherwise. Fourthly, to the employinent of a peculiarly constructed
wedge or opener, or series of wedges or openers, for the purpose of
keeping the bodies of the fabrics at an equal distance apart at the place
where the knife effects the separation of them, thereby ensuring an
equal length of pile upon the same when cut, And, fifthly, to improve-
ments in the construction of cutting wires used in the manufacture
of cut-pile fabrics; which improvements consists in making the ends of
such wires broader or thicker than the other parts, in order to give
them a wider bearing against the fabrics, and thus prevent them from
inclining on one side, so that the cutting part, when the wires are
drawn out, shall cut the pile of the fabrics in the proper place. Aud,
sixthly, for a mode of cutting asunder the cloths in such a manner as
to make one a longer pile than the other, thereby producing separate
qualities of cloth; when such is desired.

page_text: In the accompanying Drawings are shewn several views or an ordmary
loom, with some of my improvements attached thereto, and represented
as working in connection therewith; Fig. 1, Sheet I., being a side cle-
vation; Fig. 2, Sheet II., a sectional plan view; Fig. 3, Sheet III.,
a longitudinal vertical section; and Fig. 4, Sheet 1V., a front elevation.
A, indicates the stationary framework; B, are the warp beams, of which
there are five when a double fabric is required to be woven; one, as B*,
being supplied with the warps that form the faces of the fabrics when
separated by the knife, as hereafter explained. C, is the crank shaft;
D, the tappet shaft; E, (see Fig. 3, Sheet III.,) are the tappets which
actuate the headles F, by means of the levers G. Slackening motions
are provided at EI, II, for the purpose of preventing the breaking of
the warp; when the shed opens these double tightening and slackening
motions are worked by a cam on the crank shaft C, acting upon the
levers I, as shown; K, K, the take-off rollers; and L, L*, the take-
up rollers.
The batten, as before mentioned, is composed of three
distinct and separate parts, M, N, O, seen detached in Sheet IV.,
Fig. 4, which are mounted and vibrate upon the horizontal shaft P,
below the portion O, or that part which carries the reed, being in connec-
tion with and worked by the cranks, the other parts M, and N, being
brought back a short distance at every backward movement of the
cranks by catches S, S, of the central part O. This simultaneous move-
ment of the three parts is to bring their shuttle races in a straight
line during the passage of the shuttle. The parts M, and N, when
released from the catches S, are retained in their proper positions by
springs T, T, against the set screws V, V, which limit their forward
movements. The fabrics intended to be produced are those having a
face like velvet or Turkey carpets; they are woven double with two
shuttles, and therefore have two backs. The two fabrics, as they
are woven, are connected together simply by the warps above and
below, and which when cut afterwards into two form the faces
of the goods. Now in order to effect that description of weaving
just mentioned it is necessary to have two shuttles to be thrown
alternately, that is, one twice, then the other twice; or, when
necessary, three times, or even more, alternately (according to the

page_text: style or work. required to be made,) so as to form four complete
selvages. These shuttles a, a, must be mounted in rising and falling
.shuttle boxes, b, b, in order to bring them into a position to be
picked by the picking stick or apparatus c, c.
The shuttle boxes are
.raised and lowered in the following inanner :-f, is a cam mounted
upon the tappet shaft D. d, d, is a two-armed lever, the fulcrum of
which consists of the horizontal bar e, extending across the machine,
and as the cam revolves the arins of the lever d, are raised and lowered,
which, by means of the rods 9, g, cause the shuttle boxes to rise or fall
räs required. The plan view shows only two picks for the top. shuttle,
-and two picks at the bottom; but this number can be altered by the
form of the cam, or the speed given to it.
At Fig. 6, Sheet III., is shown a detached section of the shuttle
-boxes with the stopping apparatus applied. 1, indicates the frog lever,
.which is mounted loosely upon a shaft 2, supported by brackets fixed
to the parts M, of the batten. The frog 1, has a projecting. cross piece
3, upon its end, which, when the shuttle fails to enter its box, falls into
the recess of the sliding piece 6, as shewn by dots; so that as the batten
O, beats up, a projecting picce 5, projecting from its under side, strikes
against this filling piece 8, and by that means. causes the slide 6, to
disengage the spring lever in the usual manner and stop the looni.
The position of this stopping apparatus is represented by dots. in
Figure 3. It might sométinics happen during the operations of weaving
that the shuttle would stop immediately over the division between the
moveable and stationary parts of the batten, entering its box only about
'half
way, and the loon not stop by some mischance; in that case the
moveable part 0, of the batten as it came forward would strike against
and perhaps injure the shuttle before the picco 5, would move the frog
or sliding piece 6, of the stopping motion before described. Now in
order to prevent the accident just mentioned from taking place the set
screws V, V, can be removed, and I provide a strong spring 7, shewn by
the dots at Figure 3, which presses against the stationary part of the
batten, keeping it back in its proper position, so that when the shuttle
is struck by the moveable part O, of the batten the spring 7, yields, and
allows the stationary part N, with the shuttle boxes, to be brought

page_text: orward a short distance, and thus prevent the nig
Of course, although I have only described one arrangement of stopping
motion as applied to the part of the batten N, yet it should be under-
stood that a similar arrangement must be applied to the other side M,
to act in like manner, being connected by a rod underneath and across
the loom, as is now the case with the ordinary stopping motion when
the shuttle fails to perform its course.
:
In Sheet IV., Fig. 4, the three separate parts of the batten are best
seen. When a single fabric is required I only use one shuttle and only
three beams instead of the five, as one back in that case is only re-
quired, and the article by the wires woven is a terry until it is cut to
produce a piled face. The loom for this purpose is not at all altered
in its structure, the only difference is taking away two beams which
formed the second back in the double cloth, and a slight alteration in
the tie, and putting out of gear thic rising and falling box motion.
The friction bands upon the beams lettereil a, a, a, a, are flat steel
iron bands, or any metal or suitable wood bands, so arranged as to
have a set screw b, b, b, b, passing through a thickened and proper
shaped part of the band, as seen in the Drawings. There is a nut
c, c, c, c, which is screwed upon the set screw b, b, b, b; this set screw
passes through a projecting piece of the frame A, at d, d, d, d; it is
evident if the screws b, b, b, b, be forced through the nut c, c, c, c, and any
degree of tension can be given to the band a, a, to prevent the work
from coming off the beam, except at the tension required. By this
means I do away with the weights and levers generally used where
what is called a dead weight is required.
I have given here the general construction of the loom, and the
means by which the fabric can be woven; but I do not claim as my
Invention the general parts, as those are well understood; but what I
claim in this first part of my Invention is the making the lay or batten
in separate parts, as shewn, or any modification thereof to effect the
same purpose; that is to say, whereby sufficient room is left for an
apparatus to introduce the wires into the fabric during the operation
I also
of weaving without being interfered with by the shuttle boxes.
claim the mode described of weighting or banding the warp beams to
give the
the tension desired without the aid of weights.
warp

page_text: The arrangement of apparatus for introducing and withdrawing the
terry wires is also shown in the several Figures before mentioned
h, is the frame work of the wiring apparatus placed on each side of the
loom, in the upper part of which works a slide i, i, that has the wire
jj, connected to it, one wire being always introduced within the
fabric before the other is withdrawn. k, k, are levers, connected at
their upper ends by rods 1, 1, to the slides i, i, and at their lower ends
to levers m, m, which turn upon fulcrums fixed in the bracket pieces
Y, Y, of the framing A. These levers m, m, are acted upon by cams
n, n, that are mounted upon the horizontal shaft o, o, which receives
its motion from the tappet shaft D, by means of the bevil wheels
PP p p and being thus caused to revolve actuates, by means of its
cams », n, the levers, rods, and slides m, m, k, k, l, 1, and i, i, at suit-
able intervals for introducing and withdrawing the wires j, j. The wire
j, is connected loosely to the slide by a pin (see the enlarged detached
views, Figures 7, Sheet III.), so that when withdrawn from the fabric it
may be forced inwards by the spring q, and caused to assume an angu-
lar position, as shewn in the Plan, Fig. 2, the extent of its angular
motion inwards being limited by the loop or slotted piece r, of the
slide i. This only represents two wires the whole length, whereas four
wires may be used the whole length, or four half the length, to meet
midway if required.
I claim the method or arrangement of placing and working the
wire, as herein set forth, where a batten or lay like that before
explained is used, or any mere modification thereof to effect the same
purpose; I do not confine myself to placing the wire into the work at
the times here arranged, as that can be altered as desired by the form
given to the cam, or a faster or slower motion may be given to it,
all of which alterations are well known by those who understand
loons and the weaver to whom is entrusted the making of the article
required.
The arrangement of machinery for cutting or separating the double
cloth or carpet as it is woven is shewn in Figures 1, 2, 3, and 4, being
there represented as working in connection with the loom, seen best in
Sheet III. s, indicates the double cloth; and t, t, are two strong trans-
verse guide bars bolted at each end to the frame of the loom, and

page_text: between which Dars the fabric is passcu. 1, is the kine Dar that carries
the knife , (see Fig. 2); and v, v, are guides or bearings in which
the bar u, works. w, w, are two transverse guide plates bolted to each
other, and firmly secured to the main framing; these bars or plates are
curved, and when screwed together form a hollow through which the
knife bar w, works, the knife projecting a short distance through a long
narrow opening formed by the bars w, w, which keep the knife central
with the opening between the bars t, t, and prevent it from bending or
giving way by the pressure of the work against its edge during the
operation of cutting. The construction and arrangement of this part
of the apparatus is clearly represented in Figures 1, 2, and 3, of the
accompanying Drawings. The knife is actuated by means of a crank
at the upper end of the perpendicular shaft æ, which receives its
motion from the toothed wheel D*, on the tappet shaft D, through
the intervention of the level wheels a, a, a, a, sec Sheet I., and
their horizontal and perpendicular shafts a, and, which as they
revolve communicate to the knife a rapid reciprocating motion. As
the cloth becomes separated by the knife it is drawn forward by the
take-off rollers K, and K, against which it is pressed by the rollers K',
and K, that have springs y, y', y, y', (sec Sheets I. and III.) provided
for that purpose, which springs press against the axles of the rollers,
keeping them firmly in contact with each other; and the cloth which
passes between them is thus prevented from slipping or being drawn
back by the pressure of the knife u, against the fabrics while they are
being separated. Motion is given to these rollers by means of a cam 5*,
on the tappet shaft D, actuating the lever Z, which, by means of the
perpendicular click bar, and ratchet, on the shaft, causes the
worm on that shaft to turn the wheel, on the shaft of the lower
take-off roller K, thereby causing that roller to revolve, which, by
means of the bevil wheels, 2, and, communicates an equal
amount of motion to the upper taking off roller K, thus keeping both
the fabrics at an equal tension as they become separated. The fabrics
being taken off, as just described, then pass to the take-up rollers L,
and L, upon which they are wound. These take-up rollers are actuated
in the following manner:-From the sword of the central part O, of
the batten projects an arm 1, (see Fig. 1, Sheet I.) which is connected

page_text: .
to the lever 2, by the weighted link 3. This lever 2, is furnished
with a click or pawl 4, that hooks into the teeth of the ratchet wheel 5;
this ratchet wheel 5, has a pinion 6, úpon its axle that gears into the
wheel 7, mounted-upon the shaft of the take-off' roller L. Thus it will
be seen that at every beat up of the batten the lever 1, projecting from
its sword, will, by the agency of the link 3, draw down the lever 2,
which, by means of the hooked pawles 4, will turn the ratchet wheel 5,
and with it the pinion 6, upon its axle; and as the pinion 6, gears into
the wheel 7, upon the take-up roller L, it will turn that roller, which
latter, by means of the friction band 8, will also communicate the same
amount of motion to the other take-up roller L, thus winding on the
fabrics in an equal and regular manner on both rollers.
At Figures 8, 9, and 10, Sheet III., is shewn a wire intended to
separate double fabrics, and is provided with a knife or cutting edge
projecting from its face at one end, as represented in the Drawing at s;
it is also made broader at that part; this extra width is intended to
assist in keeping.. the wire in a proper position, and to prevent it from
inclining, so that when the wire is withdrawn the knife shall separate
the fabrics exactly midway between them, thus leaving a pile of equal
length on both. Or the cutting part may be placed a little on one side
to give a longer pile to one fabric than the other...
Figures 8, 9 and 10%, Sheet III., shew another description of
kuife attached to or formed by the end of the wires so as to cut the
fabric when withdrawn either when weaving a double or single cloth.
a, a, is the wire; b, the cutting part; c, c, the brass grooved guides for
pressing or conveying the material into contact with the knife, so that
it may be cut in the same straight and uniform manner as is now
accomplished by the trivet in cutting the grooved wire out of the cloth
in the weaving of velvets or other similar fabrics, the brass guide being
a mere travelling groove. This brass guide is attached by small
Screws d, d, to the end of the wire, to admit of its removal whenever
the knives may require sharpening.
I do not claim any general arrangement in this part of my Invention,
as there are numerous ways adopted in the taking off the work from
the loom as woven; I have given one; what I claim is the method
and arrangement of cutting asunder the double woven cloths in the

page_text: manner described wire being woven, but prefer cutting the.cIOUS
asunder out of the loom in the manner herein-after described, as it will
simplify the machinery of the loom, and one cutting machine will cut
the work made by a number of looms..
The next part of my Invention relates to an improved construction
and arrangement of machinery for separating the fabrics after they
have been woven and removed from the loom. In Sheet V. Fig. 11.
is a transverse vertical section, Fig. 12, is a plan, and Fig. 18, is an
end view of this improved machine A, A, indicates the framework..
B, is the beam which is supplied with the work to be cut. C, D, arc
tlie take up-rollers whereon the fabrics are wound as they become
separated. The winding up is effected by motion being given to the
shaft d by the pinion p, which gears into the spur wheel 7, froin which
a strap, passes over a pulley's, and round the roller D. A strap-t, also
passes over the roller D, to the roller C, thereby giving motion (sec
Fig. 11,) to the rollers D,. e. E, F, are pin or take-off rollers, and
G, H, are holding rollers, which. press the work against the pin rollers,
thereby ensuring a regular take off. P, is a guide roller to guide the
work to the cutting apparatus. R, is a weight upon the friction lever S,
to give pressure upon the beam B. I, and J, are liorizontal guide
bars between which the work is passed and confined in the proper
position to be cut. K, is the knife. bar that carries the knife. This bar
is guided in its movements by two guide studs a, a, projecting from
either end, working through corresponding holes in the guides b. b.
•
The operation of this machine is as follows:-A beam of work
having been placed in the machine, as seen in Figures 11, and 12, a
small quantity of the fabric is unwound and divided, then passed up
between the guide bars I, and J, and rollers E, F, G, and H; thence
to the take-up rollers C, and D; the knife is .then placed in its
working position, as shewn in the Drawing, and connected by the
rod c, to the crank of the driving shaft d; motion is then given to this
shaft by means of a band passing round the pulley e, which causes the
shaft d, to revolve rapidly and communicate by the agency of the rod c,
d, quick reciprocating motion to the knife k, which then separates the
fabrics, as they are slowly drawn towards it by the pin rollers E, and F.
Motion is given to the pin rollers from the shaft d*, which has bevil

page_text: wheels v, v, fixed upon it, which bevil wheels gear into the bevil
wheels w, w, which are attached to the shaft or the pin rollers E, and F;
regulating screws a, a, are to give any degree of pressure desired by
the rollers G, I, upon the pin rollers E, F, (see Fig. 11.)
I claim here the mode of cutting double woven fabrics in the various
manners set forth, or any modification thereof to effect the same
purpose. I have represented a fabric in Fig. 10, which has been
printed in colors in the warp so as to make a pattern when woven. In
this case I print the pattern of double the length necessary to make
one cloth, as double the length of pattern must be necessary, for the
two cloths or the pattern would be destroyed in eflect; but I do not
confine myself to the cutting asunder of printed warps, but any fabric
which it is desired to have a cut-pile fabric or velvet face; but in
the printed warps I claim the method of weaving and cutting them
when printed of double the length, as above recited, such mode of
printing such warps I believe never having before been adopted.
The next improvement, which is a modification of that last described,
consists in the employment of a series of points or narrow wedges
mounted on horizontal bars, and placed at suitable distances apart.
The points of these wedges are introduced between the fabrics a short
distance in advance of the knife, in order to keep them at an equal and
regular distance apart, so that the knife will always cut and separate
the cloths exactly midway between the two backs or ground work of
the fabrics, thereby ensuring an uniform pile of equal length on the
faces of the two cloths throughout their whole extent when cut asunder.
This arrangement will be better understood by referring to Figures 14,
and 15, in which so much of a cutting apparatus is shown as will
serve to illustrate this part of the Invention. E, and F, indicate the
pin or take-off rollers; and G, and H, are the pressing rollers, which act
in a similar manner to those described with respect to Figures 11,
12, and 13. The guide bars between which the work passes, as before
mentioned, are shewn at I, and J, their faces at 1, and 2, being made
parallel for a short distance in order to guide the work in a right line as
far as the knife K. The wedges are shewn at L, L, and M, M, M, M, M.
O, O, are the strong horizontal stationary bars upon which the wedges
are mounted, as represented in the Drawing at Fig. 15, which is a

page_text: partial plan view of the wedges and knife placed in the positions they
would assume with respect to each other when operating, the cutting
edge of the knife working as near to as possible, but yet not in contact
with the inner angle of the wedges, as shown in Fig. 14.
Fig. 16, is another modification of the guides for the cutting knife. «,
is the cutting knife, which is shewn detached and in plan in Fig. 17.
It has slots 1, 1, 1, cut out in it. At Fig. 16, are seen the guides b,
for guiding the knife in cutting the cloth asunder, whereby one may
be wider than the other, and thereby cut a larger pile upon one side
than on the other, or they may be both the same length. C, is one of
a row of pins which is fitted into one of the guides b, b, which works in
the slots i, d, which keeps the knife from being pressed upon by the
guides. The guides would act if perfectly plain, but I prefer them
with pins to prevent friction, particularly for cutting a double woven
plush or velvet asumer.
I claim in this part of my Invention the modes set forth for guiding
the knives, or any similar means to produce the same effect, either for
cutting the cloth asunder to have equal piles upon them, or to cut one
with a longer pile than the other.
Having now described my Invention, and the manner in which
the sanic is to be performed, and mentioned my claims under cach
head, I wish it to be understood that I do not limit myself to the
precise arrangements above set forth, or to the peculiar constructions,
arrangements, and combination of machinery, as above described,
for producing terry or cut-pile fabrics, as they may be varied without
departing from the nature of my Invention.
In witness whereof, I, the said Robert Moore Sievier, have here-
unto set my hand and seal, the Twentieth day of February, in
the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-four.
R. M. SIEVIEK. (L.S.)