AN IMPROVED MODE OF STITCHING OR UNITING AND ORNAMENTING VARIOUS MATERIALS, AND IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR THE SAID PURPOSE
Year: 1854

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Julian Bernard, of Club Chambers, Regent Street, in
the County of Middlesex, Gentleman, for the Invention of "AN IMPROVED
MODE OF STITCHING OR UNITING AND ORNAMENTING VARIOUS MATERIALS, AND
IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR THE SAID PURPOSE."
the County of Middlesex, Gentleman, for the Invention of "AN IMPROVED
MODE OF STITCHING OR UNITING AND ORNAMENTING VARIOUS MATERIALS, AND
IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR THE SAID PURPOSE."
Sealed the 6th October 1854, and dated the 6th April 1854.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Julian Bernard at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 6th
April 1854.
I, JULIAN BERNARD, of Club Chambers, Regent Street, in the County of
Middlesex, Gentleman, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for
"AN IMPROVED MODE OF STITCHING OR UNITING AND ORNAMENTING VARIOUS
MATERIALS, AND IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR THE SAID PURPOSE," to be as
follows:-
My improvements consist of, first, a novel kind of stitch, which I perform
with one thread, and consists in putting a knot or tie upon a loop formed of
the thread by a suitable instrument, as shewn by the Sketch A, hereunto
attached, and which prevents the sewing or stitching from unravelling, or the
material coming apart, should the thread break at any particular part of the
seam; or an alternate loop may be knotted, as shewn or illustrated by said
sketch, or one loop may be passed through one or several other loops, as-shewn
and illustrated by the Sketch B. This description of stitch may be performed
by a needle, with an eye near the point fixed in a rod similar to and actuated
in the same manner as that described in my Provisional Specification of 6th
December 1853, and may be placed in an arm made to radiate for the purpose,

page_text: and by the means described in my said Provisional Specification; but the loops
are knotted or connected together, as illustrated in the attached Sketch B,
attached by the following means and in the following manner:-I place four
instruments underneath the plate or table carrying the material, and which
instruments I work by cams, the shaft carrying such cams revolving at half the
speed of the shaft on which the cam for driving the needle rod or carrier is
placed. These instruments are arranged so that their point of action are where
the needle descends, and are made to perform their several operations by suitable
cams at the necessary time, such operations and actions being as follows:---Sup-
posing a thread passed through the eye of the needle referred to, and a knot put
upon one end thereof, and then the needle made to descend through the material,
bringing the thread or filament with it, one of the instruments alluded to, No. 1,
being made or so formed at its point as to pass between one of the folds or
sides of the thread and the needle, and so form a loop; such loop being formed
of the portion of the thread between the needle and seam of the material being
stitched, the said instrument holds the thread in this form until the needle
returns and descends again, and its point made to pass through the loop so
formed, and said instrument being caused to come in contact with an incline
which brings the loop precisely over or underneath the point where the needle
is to be inserted. and is now drawn back by means of its cam, the incline pre-
viously referred to causing it to clear the needle as it is withdrawn. Another
instrument, No. 2, somewhat similar to No. 1, is now caused to advance and
form another loop, but as soon as it does so, a slight lateral motion is imparted
to it by means of the cam which actuates it; in this position another pointed
instrument, which has its point close to where the needle descends, and under-
neath a portion of the loop first formed, is caused by means of its cam or
incline to raise its point, and in doing so raises the first loop a sufficient
distance to allow another instrument, No. 4, and which is placed on the other
side of the needle, and made to pass through the last formed loop and under-
neath the first loop, now held slightly up by No. 3; at this part of the operation
No. 3 is allowed to drop the loop on No. 4, the point of which is sufficiently
curved, so as to pull the first loop through the second. No. 2 instrument is
now withdrawn, while the thread forming the loop is pulled by the needle in
its ascent until it knots or interlocks the first loop; the needle again descends
its point passing through the first loop, still held by No. 4 instrument, but
which now is caused to release its hold by a slightly side or circular motion
being imparted to it. Instrument No. 1 is now made to form another loop in
the manner previously described, and thus the operation is repeated.
Another portion of my improvements consists of preventing the possibility o

page_text: the machine being reversed, and which is also applicable to other stitching
machines, and which I perform by using a brake or friction piece or ratchet
wheel on the main shaft, or other moveable part connected therewith, so that
should an attempt be made to turn the shaft in the wrong direction, from want
of skill in the operator, or other cause, said arrangement would prevent any
damage or derangement of the machine arising from such cause; and the
arrangement I prefer for said prevention is a piece of metal, one end being
placed upon a centre, and the other part coming in contact with the shaft or
wheel or cam placed upon it, and cut or formed to correspond with its outward
diameter, said piece being held against such part by a spring, and the bearing
part of such piece is to be placed, or the greater portion thereof, on one side of
a line drawn from the centre of the shaft and the centre upon which said
piece is placed.
Another portion of my improvements consists of using a spring arm for
taking up the slack of a machine for making button holes, and described by me
in the herein-before mentioned Provisional Specification of 6th December 1853,
and which spring arm is placed upon a loose centre in any convenient part of
the machine, and actuated by means of a cam placed upon the main or other
shaft of said machine, and a partial circular motion imparted to it at the
required time.
Another part of my Invention consists of a novel mode of uniting and
ornamenting materials by means of three threads, and which forms an orna-
mental braiding on one side of the material. I perform the stitch in the
following manner :-I employ for the upper thread a vertical needle, similar to
that herein-before referred to, and actuated in a similar manner, for the purpose
of carrying the first or top thread through the material which is forced down
by the needle, two threads being worked underneath; the point of which
needle, with a portion of the thread in it, passes through a loop formed of a
second thread, the said thread being held in a suitable position, as will be
herein-after described. At this part of the operation the vertical needle is
partially raised when [there is a loop formed of the top thread, and through
which a third thread is passed by means of a suitable instrument with an eye
near its point, the thread in such instrument being held by means of a hooked
one, which forms a loop; the vertical needle is then pulled up with its thread,
and again descends through the loop of the third thread, held by said hooked
instrument, which is forced in a direction so as to release its hold; when the
needle descends, which it now does, and a slight return motion being imparted
to it, a loop of the upper or top thread is again formed, and through which the
second thread is passed; and by a similar instrument, with an eye at its point,

page_text: a loop thereof held in a similar manner by similar means, the operation is
thus repeated, the vertical needle with its thread passing alternately through a
loop of each of the two lower threads, and each of said threads alternately
interlooping each other, and in this manner I perform this description of
stitch, one side of which being formed into a species of braiding ornaments, or
embroidering the material so stitched. And I propose to work the instruments
referred to for actuating the two under threads by means of cams or inclines
placed upon the driving shaft of the machine, and communicating motion to
said instruments by means of suitable levers, but I do not confine myself to
any special arrangement for performing said stitch, which will be more fully
understood by referring to the accompanying Sketch C.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Julian Bernard in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
6th October 1854.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JULIAN
BERNARD, of Club Chambers, Regent Street, in the County of Middlesex,
Gentleman, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Sixth day of April, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-four, in the seventeenth year of
Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto
me, the said Julian Bernard, Her special license that I, the said Julian
Bernard, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the
said Julian Bernard, my executors, administrators, or assigns, should at any
time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter
during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use,
exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland,
the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "AN IMPROVED
MODE OF STITCHING OR UNITING AND ORNAMENTING VARIOUS MATERIALS, AND IN
MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR THE SAID PURPOSE," upon the condition (amongst
others) that I, the said Julian Bernard, by an instrument in writing under my
hand and seal, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said
Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the
same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months
next and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Julian Bernard, do hereby declare the
nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed,
to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement,
reference being had to the accompanying Drawings, and to the letters and
figures marked thereon (that is to say):-
My said Invention relates, first, to the production of a novel kind of stitch
composed of one thread, such thread being so tied or knotted in the material
by suitable instruments as to entirely prevent it from unravelling, should the
thread break at any part of the seam.
Second, to the application of a break or other suitable mechanical con-
trivance to sewing machines, whereby the possibility of such machines being
reversed or turned the wrong way is obviated.
And, third, to the production of a three-thread stitch, by interlooping the
three threads together by suitable instruments.

page_text: עות
Inven-
I shall now proceed more particularly to describe the first part of:
tion, which relates to the one-thread stitch. Fig. 1 on Sheet 1 of my Drawings
represents a plan of the under side of my machine for producing the one-
thread stitch; and Figs. 2, 3, and 4 are details of the mechanism, which will be
herein-after referred to. A is the bed plate of the machine; B, the main
driving shaft; C, the second motion shaft, working at half the speed of the
driving shaft, and actuated by the toothed wheels D. The vertical needle E is
actuated by the cam F on the driving shaft. This needle is carried by a rod
or needle holder, which works in a radial arm on the top of the bed plate,
similar to that described by me in my Specification, filed the Sixth of June,
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-four. As this part of the mechanism forms
no portion of my present Invention, however, I have not considered it neces-
sary to describe or shew it in the Drawings. I place four instruments under-
neath the bed plate or table of the machine, which instruments I shall number
1, 2, 3, and 4, according to the order in which they are brought into operation,
These instruments are so arranged that these points of action are close to the
needle when the vertical needle descends, and are made to perform their
several operations by suitable cams, numbered 1ª, 2, 3, and 4, according to
the respective instruments which they actuate. The thread. is passed through
the eye of the vertical needle, and a knot formed on the end of it. The needle
E is then made to descend through the material, bringing the thread with it in
the form of a loop. The point of the instrument No. 1 now comes forward
by the action of its cam 1, and passes between one of the folds or sides of
the thread and the needle, and thus forms a loop, such loop being formed of
the portion of the thread between the eye of the needle and the seam of the
material being stitched. This instrument holds the loop distended until the
needle E returns, and descends again with its point passing through such loop.
The instrument No. 2 is now brought into action by its cam 2ª. It is some-
what similar to No. 1, and advances and forms another loop at right angles to
the previously formed loop of instrument No. 1. Instrument No. 3 now comes
into action; its point is close to where the needle descends, and is partly under-
neath the previously formed loop. By the action of its cam 3ª, its point is
caused to rise and lift up the first formed loop a sufficient distance to allow of
the instrument No. 4 being entered through the last loop underneath the first
formed loop, which is held up slightly by No. 3 for that purpose. G is an
incline, shewn at Fig. 2, to cause the end of the lifter No. 3 to disengage itself
from the loop, and clear the needle when the instrument No. 4 has got hold of
it. The instrument No. 4 is placed on the other side of the needle E, and is
actuated by the cam 4º, which causes it to move back and draw the first loop

page_text: through the second or last formed loop. The point of the instrument No. 4 is
shewn in detail at Fig. 3; it is slightly hooked and curved, to enable it to enter
under the loop to be drawn. A slight circular motion is imparted to the
hooked end of this instrument, for the purpose of facilitating its laying hold of
the loop, and to release its hold of such loop at the proper time. This circular
motion is obtained from the slide H and cam I. The end of the slide has an
inclined slot formed in it, as shewn in the detail, Fig. 4, and in this slot is
placed the end of the tail piece J, which is attached to the spindle K carrying
the instrument No. 4. The spindle is free to turn in the boss L, and there-
fore as the enclined slot is moved forward and backward, it raises or lowers the
end of the J, which consequently gives a corresponding rocking or circular
motion to the spindle K and instrument 4. The instrument No. 2 is now
withdrawn, while the thread forming the loop is pulled up by the ascent of the
needle E until it knots or interlocks the first or previously formed loop, which
is still held by No. 4 until the needle again threads and passes thro' it,
when it is then relieved in the manner I have herein-before described. The
instrument No. 1 now advances again, and the operations are repeated. The
stitch thus produced is shewn by the diagram sketch at Fig. 5. I may here
observe that I do not confine myself to the particular mode of effecting
the operations of the several instruments, as described and shewn in the
diagram, but what I claim is, the peculiar form of knot and stitch herein-
before described and illustrated at Fig. 5 on Sheet 1 of my Drawings.
That portion of my present Invention which relates to the preventing of
sewing machines from being reversed or turned the wrong way, and thereby
probably deranging the mechanism, is illustrated by Fig. 6 on Sheet 1 of my
Drawings, which represents a side elevation of the brake. A is the drawing
shaft, and B a fly-wheel or disc fitted thereon; C is the friction brake, which
consists simply of an arm working loosely upon a fixed slide centre D in any
convenient part of the machine. The free E of this arm is shaped to fit
accurately the periphery of the fly-wheel or disc B, upon which it is kept pinned
slightly by a spring F. The point of contact between the end E of the arm
and the periphery of the wheel or disc B should fall slightly without a straight
line joining the centres of the shaft A and fixed D, as is clearly demon-
strated by the red lines in the Drawing. Thus the shaft A will be free to
revolve in the right direction; but if it should, through carelessness or other
cause, be turned in the wrong direction, then the armi C, which is kept in
contact with the wheel or disc by the spring F, will cause the wheel or disc B
to be jammed hard up at once, and so prevent the machine from turning.
Under this head of my Invention I claim the application of the brake or friction

page_text: picce, or a ratchet wheel to the main shaft or other moveable part of sewing
machines generally, for the purpose berein-before set forth.
That portion of my Invention which consists of a novel mode of uniting and
ornamenting materials by means of three threads, which form an ornamental
braiding on one side of the material, is illustrated by Fig. 1 on Sheet 2 of my
Drawings, which represents a plan of the under side of the bed plate, with the
mechanism attached thereto. The rest of the Figs. represent various details,
which will be herein-after described. A is the bed plate of the machine, and B
the first motion shaft, which gives motion to the second or cam shaft C, driven
at the rate of two to one by the pair of toothed wheels D. The cam shaft C
contains the whole of the cams requisite for the obtainment of the various
movements desired. The vertical needle E works in a radial arm, and is
actuated by the cam F in a similar manner to that fully described by me in my
Specification, filed the Sixth day of June, One thousand eight hundred and fifty-
four, and forms no part of my present Invention taken separately. This first
needle E is for the purpose of carrying the first thread, which is colored blue
in the Drawing, through the material, the two other threads being worked
underneath the material, colored respectively in the Drawings red and yellow,
for the sake of distinction. The feed motion in this machine is analagous
with that heretofore patented by me; or any other convenient means of
feeding in the material may be adopted, such portion of the machine forming
no part of my present Invention. The motion requisite for the feeding in
of the material is obtained from the inclined tappet G on the second motion
or cam shaft. This tappet acts upon one end of the lever EI, which bears
at its opposite end against the lever arm of the feed actuator, not shewn in
the Drawing. By having the tappet G inclined, as shown in the Drawing,
the length of the stroke of the lever H, and consequently the length of stitch,
may be regulated by sliding the tappet along its shaft, and bringing different
points of the incline to bear upon the tail of the lever H. The requisite move-
ments of the two under needles or instruments are obtained from the cams
J and K, which may be cast in one piece with the cam F, thus constituting
one compound cam, whereby all the needle movements of the machine are
obtained. The second needle or instrument L is also formed with an eye near
its point, similar to the first needle E, and is connected to the slide M, which
receives a traversing or sliding movement from the crown cam J, and may
be brought back again by a spring. The third instrument or needle O
is also formed with an eye at its point, and is carried by the slide P, which
is actuated by the cam K and short slotted lever Q. The following is the
order in which the three needles operate when the machine is in action:-The

page_text: first or vertical needle E is first brought down by the cam F, and passes its
thread, which is colored blue in the Drawing, thro' the material; it is then
gradually withdrawn, which operation causes a loop to be formed, through
which loop is passed the second needle or instrument L, with its thread in a
looped state, colored red in the Drawing. Through the loop of the second or red
thread is now passed the third instrument or needle O, with its thread (colored
yellow in the Drawing) also in a looped or double form. The first or vertical
needle E is withdrawn simultaneously with the entrance of the third needle O
into the loop of the second needle thread; and the second needle L is then
withdrawn immediately afterwards, or, if desired, at the same time that the
vertical needle withdraws. On the withdrawal of the first or vertical needle,
its thread (colored blue) is left in a looped state over the second needle and
thread (colored red); and on withdrawing the second needle, its thread is
left in a looped form over the third needle and thread (colored yellow). The
third needle O is not drawn back until the first or vertical needle has again
descended for another stitch, and inserted its thread through the material and
through the loop of the third needle thread (colored yellow). The third needle
O is now withdrawn, and its loop left round the first or vertical needle. The
second needle L now advances again with its thread, and inserts it through the
loop of the vertical needle, the whole operation being continued in the manner
just described. The peculiar form of stitch produced is illustrated by the
diagram sketches, Fig. 2.
Fig. 3 on the same Sheet of Drawings is a sectional detail of one of the
bobbins, shewing the mode of giving the necessary friction or drag thereto. A
is the bobbin, which is carried by the spindle B, screwed into the bed plate of
the machine at C. A conical collar D is fitted to the top of the spindle, and
the bobbin is pressed thereto by a spring E and washer F. The washer is
allowed to slide up the spindle, and is connected to it by a pin which passes
through the slot G in the spindle. The amount of friction is regulated by
screwing more or less the nut H, which serves to compress or slacken the
spring.
I
may here observe, that although I have had occasion to describe certain
parts of mechanism for the purpose of actuating the three needles or instru-
ments, yet I by no means confine or restrict myself to the particular mode of
working these instruments, nor to the exact form of stitch herein-before
described; as, for example, the two under needles may be fitted into the ends
of levers working horizontally on fixed centres, whilst the requisite movement
is obtained from suitable cams actuating the free ends of such levers. What
I claim as new in this portion of my Invention is, the securing, uniting, or

page_text: ornamenting of materials by interlooping the second and third threads when
three threads are employed with the first thread, or by interlooping the three
threads together in any other order found most expedient, by which the neces-
sity of entirely passing either of the threads through a loop of the other is
entirely obviated.
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of my said
Invention, and the manner in which the same is or may be used or carried
into effect, I would observe, in conclusion, that I do not confine or restrict
myself to the precise details or arrangements which I have had occasion to
describe or refer to, as many variations may be made therefrom without
deviating from the principles or main features of my said Invention.
In witness whereof, I, the said Julian Bernard, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Sixth day of October, One thousand eight hundred
and fifty-four.
JULIAN BERNARD. (L.s.)