IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS, SHOES, AND OTHER COVERINGS FOR THE FEET, AND IN APPARATUS CONNECTED WITH SUCH MANUFACTURE."
Year: 1880

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to John Sharp, Pattern Maker, and Samuel Austin, Boot
and Shoe Manufacturer, both of Bradford, in the County of York, for an
Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS, SHOES,
AND OTHER COVERINGS FOR THE FEET, AND IN APPARATUS CONNECTED
WITH SUCH MANUFACTURE."
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said John Sharp & Samuel
Austin at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 3rd November
1880.
JOHN SHARP, Pattern Maker, and SAMUEL AUSTIN, Boot and Shoe Manufacturer,
both of Bradford, in the County of York. "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE
OF BOOTS, SHOES, AND OTHER COVERINGS FOR THE FEET, AND IN APPARATUS
CONNECTED WITH SUCH MANUFACTURE."
This Invention relates to apparatus for "lasting," or stretching the "vamps” or
upper leather of boots, shoes, or other coverings for the feet.
For this purpose the leather which is to form the upper part of the boot or shoe
is placed on the last in the ordinary manner, and the last is placed in the apparatus,
which is constructed with a framework, having on the tops of the longitudinal side
frames sliding guides in which work clams for the purpose of drawing in the heel
and toe; these clams are made with joints to give an opening and closing action,
and at the back of the clams are fitted by preference spiral springs (but other springs
can be employed) for the purpose of opening the clams to admit the last having
the upper leather, and when the clams are opened the last having the upper leather
is placed on pivots which are secured on rods which work in sockets; the pivots are
regulated in position according to the size of the last employed by set screws acting
on washers fitted in the inside of the sockets, the set screws press in or out the rods
of the pivots, lifting or lowering them; the rods are made smaller in diameter in
the parts working in the sockets, and over these parts and placed in the sockets are
passed tubular india-rubber springs to relieve the pressure and prevent breakage,
and also to assist in drawing the tops of the leather over the last; the smaller parts
of the rods and tubular india-rubber springs rest upon the tops of the washers.
Paine 631

page_text: The sides of the sockets are made with wings, having curved guides which are
placed on rods fitted lengthways in the framework; the sockets can be slided on
the rods, allowing of moving the pivots in any position, and according to the size
of the last having the upper leather to be operated on.
To secure the last and upper in the clams and to draw over the heel and toe,
the clams are drawn in or closed by means of pins or studs working in forks
formed on the ends of the clams, and the pins or studs are actuated by forks made
on the ends of levers whose fulcrums work on cross shafts fitted inside the frame-
work; the pins or studs work through bosses, cast on the side ends of the framework
and are fitted with collars which allow the levers to close in the clams for small
sized lasts and uppers; the levers for closing in the clams are fitted, one in the
centre line of each set of clams and two on the sides of the framework; the forked
levers have hanging down arms to which are secured studs and over which are
fitted runners on which act cams, which are secured on shafts actuated by spur
wheels, the spur wheels are worked by an intermediate wheel which is actuated by
a pinion, fitted and secured on a fly wheel shaft and the fly wheel is fitted with a
handle to put the apparatus in action. To the end of the toe clam is given a kind
of rocking motion so as to act on any pitch of toe on the last and the pitch is
regulated and set up by thumb screws, a joint being made at the back of the clam
and the thumb screws are worked in the front of the clam. On one of the side
pressing or closing in levers is fitted a pointer which works over a plate secured on
the top of one of the side frames; this plate is cut with divisions, marking the size
of the last employed, and to be secured in the clams; the toe clams are fitted with
pins or teeth to draw in the top of the leather of the toe.
To pull in or close the sides of the uppers, we employ nippers whose bottom
levers are passed through eyes and fixed therein by set screws, the eyes are secured
in sockets formed on the tops of bent levers; the fulcrums of these levers work on
the shafts of the pivots, and the bottom arms of the levers are actuated by cams
which are secured on the shafts of the cams actuating the clams; the cams actuate
the nipping levers and give a pulling cross way motion, that is to say, one set of
nippers will pull over the opposite joint and waste leather, and the other set the
other opposite side; and to keep the nippers firmly nipping, we secure in the bottom
levers of the nippers studs to which are secured bent or curved levers in which
are cut or formed excentric slot openings, in which work pins or studs, secured
to the top levers of the nippers; by turning the curved levers the excentric slot
openings act upon the pins or studs of the top levers, firmly keeping pressed
down the top nipping levers and also the nippers on the upper joint and waste
leather.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said John Sharp and Samuel Austin in the Great Seal Patent Office on
the 3rd May 1881.
"
JOHN SHARP, Pattern Maker, and SAMUEL AUSTIN, Boot and Shoe Manufacturer,
both of Bradford, in the County of York. IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE
OF BOOTS, SHOES, AND OTHER COVERINGS FOR THE FEET, AND IN APPARATUS
CONNECTED WITH SUCH MANUFACTURE."
The said Invention relates to apparatus for "lasting" or stretching the "vainps"
or upper leathers of boots, shoes, or other coverings for the feet.
For this purpose the leather which is to form the upper part of the boot or shoe
is placed on the last in the ordinary manner, and the last is placed in the apparatus,
which is constructed with a framework, having on the tops of the longitudinal side
frames slide guides, in which work clams, which are for the purpose of drawing in
the heel and toe; those clams are made with joints to give an opening and closing
action, and at the back of the clams are secured by preference spiral springs, but
india rubber or other springs can be employed. The springs are for the purpose of
opening the clams to admit the last having the upper leather, and when the clams
are opened, the last having the upper leather is placed on pivots which work in
sockets, and the pivots are regulated in position according to the size of the last
employed by screws actuated by small hand wheels; the screws act on washers
fitted in the inside of the sockets, and the screws press the pivots in or out, lifting
or lowering them. The pivots are made smaller in diameter in the parts working
in the sockets, and over these parts and placed in the sockets are passed tubular
india rubber springs to release pressure, prevent breakage, and also to assist in
drawing the tops of the leather over the last. The reduced parts of the pivots and
the tubular india rubber springs rest upon the tops of the washers. The sides of
the sockets are made with wings having curved guides placed on rods fitted
lengthwise of the framework; the sockets can be moved according to requirements,
and the curved guides slide on the rods so as to allow the moving of the pivots in
any position and according to the size of the last having the upper leather to be
operated on.
To secure the last and upper in the clams and to draw over the heel and toe, the
clams are drawn in or closed by gear through the lug cast on the end of one of the
clams, and of each pair of clams is passed a stud having a head through which
passes a rod, the end of which works through a boss cast on the end frame of the
machine; both sets of clams are fitted with similar studs and rods working through
a boss cast on the end of the frame; on the rods work forks formed on the ends of
levers whose fulcrums work on cross shafts fitted in lugs projecting inside the
framework; the cross shafts are also fitted with fork levers working inside the
frame and on each side, the forked ends acting on collars fitted on studs, so as to
allow the closing in of the clams for small sized lasts or uppers; the levers having
the forked ends are fitted in the centre line of oach set of clams and two on the
sides of the framework; the forked levers have hanging down arms in the ends of
which are secured studs, over which are fitted runners on which act cams, which
are secured on shafts actuated by spur gear; the wheels of this gear are actuated
by a fly wheel having a handle; on the fly wheel is cast a pinion which actuates
a wheel giving motion to another pinion which works one of the shafts having
cams, the other shaft with cams is actuated by a small wheel working in the
wheel fitted on the other shaft, and which is worked by the pinion. The clams
receive a rising motion to act on any pitch of toe on the last, and this pitch is
regulated by thumb screws which act on joints made at the back of the clams.
On one of the top sides is fitted a plate which is cut with divisions, and over the
plate is fitted a pointer to mark the size of the last required to be secured in the
clams, and the toe clams are fitted with pins or cut with teeth to draw in the
leather on the top of the toe.
To pull in or close the sides of the uppers we employ nippers which are made

page_text: with bottom levers which are passed through eyes and fixed therein by set screws.
The studs of the eyes are secured in sockets formed on the tops of bent levers
whose fulcrums work on the shafts of the pivots, and the bottom arms of the levers
are actuated by cams which are secured on the shafts of the cams actuating the
clams; the cams actuate the nipping levers and give a pulling crossway motion,
that is to say, one set of nippers will pull over the opposite joint and waste leather,
and the other set the other opposite side, and to keep the nippers firmly nipping
we secure in the bottom levers of the nippers studs, on which work curved levers
having slot openings in which work pins or studs secured to the top nipping levers
by pulling up the curved levers; the slot openings act upon the pins or studs of the
top nipping levers, firmly keeping the waste leather nipped; or instead of the curved
levers we employ nippers made with top nippers having hollow levers through
which pass rods secured to arms formed on the jaws of the bottom nippers. The rods
are fitted at the end with cross handles, and the ends of the hollow levors are
made with cut out angular parts in which are turned projecting pieces formed on
the end of the rods, so that by turning the handles the projecting pieces are locked
against the ends of the hollow levers and thus firmly keep the nippers pressed on
the waste leather.
But in order to enable our improvements to be better understood we will proceed
to describe the same by reference to the accompanying Drawing, in which Figure 1
represents a side elevation of our improved apparatus for lasting or stretching the
upper leathers of boots, shoes, or other coverings for the feet; Figure 2, end view,
and Figure 3 plan of the same.
Figure 4 represents part of the plan of the apparatus with differently constructed
clams and with the eccentric motion of the nippers.
Similar letters of reference are employed to represent similar parts.
The leather A, forming the upper part of a boot or shoe, is placed on the last B
in the usual way; the last is then placed on the pivots C, which have a lifting or
lowering action to suit the different sizes of last; the pivots C_work in sockets D,
and the pivots are placed to the required position by screws E actuated by small
hand wheels F; the screws act on washers fitted inside the sockets, and the parts
of the pivots working in the sockets are made smaller in diameter than the
top parts of the pivots and smaller also than the inside diameters of the
sockets; over the smaller parts of the pivots are fitted pieces of india
rubber tubing, which are placed inside the sockets with the pivots; the
tubing forms india rubber springs to release pressure, prevent breakage, and also
to assist in drawing the tops of the leather over the last; the ends of the pivots
having the pieces of tubing rest on the tops of the washers; the sockets D have
wings or brackets G made with curved ends H, which are placed on shafts or rods I
fitted lengthwise in the frame work J; this frame work is made with openings .K,
in which work the ends I of clams M, having joints N to give. an opening and
closing action to admit the last having the upper leather, and the clams are for the
purpose of drawing in the heel and toc; at the back of the clams M are fitted pins,
to which are secured spiral springa O, the other ends of the springs being secured
on pins P, which are fitted in brackets Q secured to the framework. To draw over
the heel and toe the clams M are forced in and are actuated by means of studs.R,
having heads S, through which are passed and work rods T, which also work in
bosses U cast on the end frames J of the apparatus; over the rods T are fitted
collars or rings W, which are secured in the required position by pins X, which are
passed through the collars, and through one of the holes Y drilled in the rods the
collars or rings are secured in the required position according to the size of the last
employed; over the rods T and pressing against the sides of the collars are forks Z,
formed on the ends of levers A'; the fulcrums of these levers work on cross
shafts B', secured in the inside of the frame; the shafts work in bosses C' cast on
brackets D'; on the cross shafts B¹ work other levers of similar construction. to
that of the levers A¹, and having forked ends Z; these levers are fitted inside the
frame work and near the longitudinal frames; the forked ends act against

page_text: collars W, which are sccured in position on rods T, which work in bosses U cast on
the end frames; the side collars W are made with sinall projecting arms El, which
act upon arms F projecting on the ends of the clams M, and the levers A¹ have
hanging down arms G', in the ends of which are secured studs or pins on which
work runners H¹, which receive an outward motion by means of cams I', and
which give an inward motion to the forks Z, and consequently close in the
clams M; the cams I' are secured to shafts J', which work in bearers K' cast on
the end frames of the apparatus, and the shafts J' and cams l' are actuated by
spur wheels L', which receive motion from a pinion M' actuated by a wheel N¹,
worked by a pinion O' cast or secured to the fly wheel P¹ actuated by the
handle Q
The clams M also receive a rising or lifting motion so as to act on any pitch of
toe on the last, and the said pitch is regulated by thumb screws R', which actuato
screws S¹ which give the required lifting motion to the jointed ends of the clams;
the toe clams are cut with teeth or fitted with pins to draw in the leather on the
top of the toe.
To pull in or close the sides of the uppers we employ nippers having bottom
levers T', which are passed through eyes U₁, and secured therein by set screws V¹;
the eyes are made with studs W₁, secured in sockets X³, formed on bent levers Y¹,
whose fulcrums work on the shafts or rods I, and the bottom arms Z¹ of the
levers Y¹ are actuated by cams A² fitted on the shafts J'; the cams A³ actuate the
nipping levers and give a pulling crossway motion, that is to say, one set of nippers
will pull over the opposite joint and waste leather and the other set the other
opposite side; and to keep the nippers firmly nipping the leather we employ
studs B², which are secured in the ends of the top arms C² of the top jaw D³; the
studs Bª work in openings E2 or curved levers F, which work on studs G secured
in the bottom arms or levers T¹; by pulling forward the handle H2 the stud B* is
forced up in the opening E2, and the jaw D³ is firmly closed on the leather, and by
pulling down the handle H³ the stud B slides in the opening E2, which removes
the jaw D from the leather.
We also employ nippers having the top jaws made with long hollow arms I³,
through which pass rods Ja secured to the top arms K* of the lower jaws L³; the
ends of the hollow arms I are made with angular cut out parts M², which receive
projecting eccentric pieces N* fitted on the ends of the rods J; by turning the
handle O the eccentric piece N2 is brought in contact with the end P³, which gives
pressure on the jaw to firmly nip the leather, and to release the leather the eccentric
piece N is turned in the angular cut out part M².
Having thus described our improvements, and the best means we are acquainted
with for carrying the same into effect, we would have it understood that we do
not confine ourselves to the precise details shewn and described, as these may be
varied without departing from the peculiar character of the Invention, but what
we do claim is,-
-
The general arrangement, construction, and employment of apparatus for
"lasting" or stretching the "vamps" or upper leathers of boots, shoes, or other
coverings of the feet, substantially as and for the purpose herein before described
and represented in the accompanying Drawing.
In witness whereof, we, the said John Sharp and Samuel Austin, have
hereunto set our hands and seals, this Twenty eighth day of April, in the
vear of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and eighty one.