IMPROVE- MENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OR PRODUCTION OF ORNAMENTAL FABRICS."
Year: 1854

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Nicholas Michael Caralli, of Glasgow, in the County
of Lanark, North Britain, Merchant, for the Invention of "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OR PRODUCTION OF ORNAMENTAL FABRICS."
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Nicholas Michael Caralli
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
6th July 1854.
I, NICHOLAS MICHAEL CARALLI, of Glasgow, in the County of Lanark,
North Britain, Merchant, do hereby declare the nature of the said Inven-
tion for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OR PRODUCTION OF ORNAMENTAL
FABRICS
to be as follows:-
This Invention relates to the manufacture of fabrics of the zebra class, such
fabrics being suitable for all the purposes to which ordinary zebra goods are
applied, with the advantago that they present a different and totally distinct
pattern or device on each side or surface. According to one modification, a
plain twilled or other fabric is used as the material for producing this duplex
pattern, such fabric having no flushing or backlashing; or, according to
another inodification, a double fabric may be employed, such fabric being
woven according to any known system, and consisting in appearance of two
fabrics united by intermediate flushed threads, or threads woven into both
fabrics. The fabric is then printed by any of the known means with a distinct

page_text: pattern or device in the zebra or similar style on each side, or cn the two
outer sides if the fabric is double, so that one piece answers the end of showing
two dissimilar styles of ornamentation.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Nicholas Michael Caralli, in the Great Scal Patent Office
on the 6th January 1855.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, NICHOLAS
MICHAEL CARALLI, of Glasgow, in the County of Lanark, North Britain,
Merchant, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Sixth day of July, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-four, in the eighteenth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me,
the said Nicholas Michael Caralli, Her special license that I, the said
Nicholas Michael Caralli, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or
such others as I, the said Nicholas Michael Caralli, my executors, admi-
nistrators, or assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from
time to time and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed,
should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United
Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of
Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OR PRODUCTION
OF ORNAMENTAL FABRICS," upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the
said Nicholas Michael Caralli, by an instrument in writing under my hand
and seal, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said
Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause
the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months
next and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Nicholas Michael Caralli, do hereby
declare the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to
be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement, that is to say:-
My said Invention relates to the manufacture or production of the several
classes of woven fabrics which are technically and commercially known by
manufacturers and merchants as " zebras," such fabrics being used in the form
of dresses, robes-de-chambre, certain kinds of shawls, and other articles of

page_text: ornamental dress. Hitherto goods of this kind have been manufactured or
produced either by the routine of weaving dyed yarns to the desired pattern in
the jacquard or pattern working loom, leaving the pattern side plain and
smooth, whilst the reverse side is flushed or backlashed; or by weaving dyed
yarns in the jacquard or pattern working loom in such a manner as to produce
distinct or dissimilar patterns on opposite sides of the fabric; or again, by a
system wherein an uncoloured flushed or backlashed fabric is first woven
and then printed with the desired pattern or zebra device. The result of such
systems of producing zebra goods is nearly the same in two of these cases, the
pattern or ornamental figure being presented on one face only of the piece,
whilst the reverse backlashed side is devoid of all ornament; but in the other
example a woven pattern is presented on cach face. Now, the zebra goods
produced according to my Invention present a different and totally distinct
printed pattern on each side or surface. According to one modification of my
system of manufacture, a plain twilled or other class of fabric is used as the
groundwork material for the production of this duplex pattern, such fabric
having no flushing or backlashing on either of its surfaces; or, according to
another modification of my system, a double fabric may be employed, such
fabric being woven according to any of the existing systems, and consisting in
appearance of two fabrics, united by intermediate flushed threads, or threads
which are woven or otherwise worked into both sections of the piece. Having
thus prepared the raw fabric or material, I then print by any of the existing
means or agencies a distinct zebra pattern or ornamental device of a similar
kind on each side of the fabric, or on the two external faces, if the piece
is of the duplex kind. In this way a single piece of zebra fabric produced
according to my Invention answers the end of shewing two dissimilar patterns
or ornamental devices; and hence, by reversing the exposed pattern surface,
the wearer of a dress made from material of this kind may produce totally
distinct ornamental effects at pleasure.
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of my said
Invention, and the manner in which the same is or may be used or carried into
effect; I may observe, in conclusion, that I do not confine or restrict myself to
the precise details or arrangements which I have had occasion to describe or
refer to, as many variations may be made therefrom without deviating from
the principles or main features of my Invention; but what I consider to be
novel and original, and therefore claim as the Invention secured to me by the
herein-before in part recited Letters Patent, is,―
First, the system or mode of manufacturing or producing ornamental fabrics
of the zebra class, as herein-before described.

page_text: Second, the manufacture or production of ornamental fabrics of the zebra
class with a distinct and dissimilar printed pattern or ornamental device on
each side or external face.
In witness whereof, I, the said Nicholas Michael Caralli, have hereunto
set my hand and scal, this Fifth day of January, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-five.
N. M. CARALLI. (L.S.)