IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES
Year: 1882

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Alfred Ames Fisher, of the City and County of San
Francisco, State of California, United States of America, Gentleman, for an
Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES."
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION filed by the said Alfred Ames Fisher at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 22nd May 1882.
ALFRED AMES FISHER of the City and County of San Francisco, State of
California, United States of America, Gentleman. "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING
MACHINES."
My Invention relates, generally, to certain new and useful improvements in
sewing machines; more particularly to certain attachments thereto consisting of a
tucking device and an improved mode or manner of feeding the goods, thereto,
together with the means therefor: and in a device for braiding, darning, binding
and felling.
The first of these devices, the tucker, consists in an arrangement of parts,
furnishing a means for folding the cloth, gauging the width of the tuck, guiding
and securing the goods when adjusted, and fixing the width of the space between
the tucks.
The manner of feeding the goods consists in forming them into an endless band
and directing them to the tucker to make one continuous tuck throughout the
whole piece; the means for accomplishing this consists in the arrangement of a
suitable table and directing board, provided with rollers and capable of appropriate
adjustment.
The device for braiding, darning, binding and felling, consists in a combination
of peculiar plates to effect the several results, together with a means rendering the
use of said plates practicable.
The object of my Invention is to provide suitable means for accomplishing with
accuracy and facility, the operations which I have hereinbefore stated. in the
nature of my Invention.

page_text: All of these operations, together with the means I use, will be hereinafter fully
set forth, reference being now made to the accompanying Drawings in which :-
Fig 1. is a perspective view of the tucker showing the goods in process of
tucking.
Fig 2. is a front elevation of the tucker.
Fig 3. is a perspective view of the tucker with the guards open.
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4 is a side elevation of the end of the tucker next the sewing machine.
5 is a section through tuck guiding slot c.
6 is a plan showing gauge and swivel of upper guard.
7 is a plan of the clutch plate.
8 is a section through line 1, 2 on Figures 2 and 3.
10 is a section through line 5, 6 on Fig 7.
11 is a perspective of the braiding, darning and felling attachments in
position.
12, 13, and 14, are detail views of separate plates constituting said
attachments.
Fig 9 section through 3, 4, on Figure 6.
Similar letters in all the Figures indicate the same parts. A represents generally
the operative parts of any sewing machine. C represents the base plate of the
tucking attachment. This is secured at one end to the plate of the machine by
means of a set screw through a slot a. Upon its upper surface is rigidly secured a
transverse inclined piece D.
Upon plate C is another piece E of similar inclination to piece D. It is secured
by a stationary screw b upon plate C, and may vary its distance from piece D, by
having a slot through which screw b passes, and by means of an adjusting screw b¹
which passes through its side, into and through said piece D.
Between the pieces D and E is formed a slot or groove c which may be adjusted
in width by screw b¹ which withdraws or advances piece E.
Attached to the inner end of piece E near its bottom, is a curved guide strip d,
which is in slot c.
.
In slot c between pieces D and E is a plate F consisting of a strip of metal, the
base of which lies upon plate C, and its top inclines upwardly to the back.
It may have a slotted top guide f¹; it is provided with a horizontal slot f,
through which the screw 6¹ passes.
By moving plate F back or forth across the base plate, the distance between its
inclined top and the top of pieces D and E may be varied.
Upon the outer end of piece E is a hinge G, having side guides g, in which the
end of the upper guard H fits.
This guard has a wide cross end h, turned upward and provided with vertical
slot h. H is an angled guard or guide, the upright side of which fits against the
cross end h and is secured by screws h² passing through slots h'.
It is thus rendered vertically adjustable.
The end or shank of guard H, has a slot d', the end of which is enlarged and
adapted to fit over a screw e secured in piece E. The guard H is intended to be
laid flat upon piece E, extending towards slot c, and when not in use, to be thrown
back out of the way.
Its swinging is provided for by the hinge G, and its extension, by means of the
guides g of said hinge, and the slot d and screw e.
To limit and adjust its extension, the sliding stop plate e¹ is secured upon it by
a screw e², the end of said stop plate being adapted to come in contact with the
thumb screw e.
The guard H and its cross end h are continued below the lower end of piece E,
and support a sliding guide plate Z, secured by a screw 2.
They are likewise continued above and have a sliding guide plate Z¹.
The other end of base plate C, fits into side guides under a plate C¹ and has a
cross guide c¹ above said plate, fitting through its slotted end as shown.
Through the cross guide c³ a screw rod c² is inserted, and thence passes in a

page_text: suitable channel to the outer end of plate C¹, where it is provided with a pinion i,
with which meshes a gear i¹ operated by a thumb wheel I'.
By moving this wheel the screw rod c³ will move the base plate C in the
direction of its length.
By loosening the thumb screw through slot a, which secures the base plate to
the sewing machine, said plate may be moved to adjust the position of the slot c
with reference to the needle. The plate C has attached to its end an upper
plate I which is inclined similarly to pieces D and E; it extends over plate C¹ and
has upon its inner end a pivot pin k.
J represents the under guard. It consists of a light open frame, having a cross
head upon its inner end.
Its outer end has a longitudinal slot l.
Under this is a bearing plate m having a raised strip fitting in slot l. It has
upon one end a screw pin , a hole in its center, and a notch k, in its outer end.
A thumb nut j', fits screw ', and secures the bearing to the guard; both fit over
the pivot pink and a set screw secures them.
A clutch plate m¹ operated by a spring m³ and sliding in guides m2 upon the
inclined plate I fits its end into the notched end of plate m and holds the guard
straight. When relieved from the clutch plate the guard J, may be turned out of
the way by loosening nut j¹, it may be adjusted lengthwise, to fix the distance of
its cross-head j, from slot c. K is a plate, under guard J towards its inner end;
this has a cross-head q with a turned down edge or lip, adapted to fit within the
slot c its entire length.
.
The adjustment of this plate, to keep its lip within the slót, regardless of the
adjustment of the guard J to which it is secured, is accomplished by providing its
upper side, with bevelled flange guides q¹ fitted upon and supported by the corre-
spondingly bevelled edges of the guard J.
The outer end of plate K is provided with a screw pin q2 which fits through a
slot 0, in the guard J, and is secured by a nut. In order to provide for the setting
of guard J, a little higher up and still to keep its cross head straight with the
slot c and the lip of its under lying plate K, within the slot, the guard is made in
two sections the joint being at y' where the two screws unite the sections. The
operation of these devices is as follows. Open out both guards J and H, leaving
the transverse pieces D and E exposed.
Turn down guard J and so adjust its cross-head j, as to extend beyond the line
of the needle, a distance equal to the desired width of tuck, say for example one-
eighth of an inch.
Fold the cloth over cross-head j, one fold lying under the guard J, and the other
above it; then turn down guard H upon the top fold of cloth and adjust it forward
so that its end shall abut against the cross head of guard J, thus holding the cloth
between them to prevent it from varying the width of tuck. Start the machine
and feed the cloth under the needle, by which means the first tuck will be made.
Then fold back the upper guard H and turn the upper guard J away, and remove
the cloth.
Now I want a space between the tucks of 3/16 of an inch, still maintaining the
one-eight tuck.
It is obvious that this distance or space, must be measured from the tuck first
made. In order to do this with accuracy I place the first tuck in the slot c and by
adjusting the plate K under the guard J so that its lip will fit into the slot c, the
tuck will be held firmly in the slot, though allowed to slip along, while the needle
is making a new tuck from the fold around cross-head J.
By putting each successive tuck in the slot, I can always maintain the same
space between the tucks.
But to determine this space in the first instance the slot c in which the
measuring tuck travels must be set to one side of the line of the needle a distance.
of 3/16 of an inch.

page_text: This is done by loosening the base plate C, and adjusting it lengthwise by the
means described.
The guards H and J, and the underlying tuck securing plate K, may all then be
readjusted to make the one-eight tuck. The adjustment of the base plate having
first been made, the other parts need no adjustment after once being fixed in
proper position.
To provide accurately for the adjustment of the base plate to determine the
space between the tucks, and for the adjustment of the under-guard J to determine
their width, I have a guage r consisting of a number of lines upon the plate C³, to
which the point of the cross-guide c¹ of the main plate C, is directed. Another
guage ist upon the end of the guard J, to which a finger s secured by a thumb-
nut j', and the nut fitting pivot pin k points.
The angled guard H³ may be adjusted to provide for the thickness of the
material, which by passing under it is suitably guided. The plate F within the
slot, supports the tuck traveling therein, and by its adjustment, will receive
various widths of tucks.
When the tuck being made is very wide, and the goods in passing from under
the needle extend to one side of the presser-foot, the sliding guide plate Z may be
adjusted over the goods and properly direct them.
To prevent the goods from sagging down after leaving the frame and keep them
close up against the cross-head j, of guard J and direct the previous tuck into
slot c, the guide plate Z¹ above may be pushed out under them and thus furnish a
support and guide.
To prevent the guard H from being adjusted too closely to the cross-head of
guard J, and thus have a tendency to bind the goods, and impede their passage,
the stop-plate e¹ may be suitably set as explained.
The curved guide d in the slot c lays the tuck travelling therein, over flat. The.
width of the slot c may be varied for different thicknesses of goods.
The explanation given applies to the tucking of goods, fed to the device in any
manner, either from the hand or from a suitable frame from which the goods are
unwound, and by means of which large pieces may be tucked at a time.
I shall now explain my improvement in the manner of feeding the cloth and
the means for doing it.
When a straight tuck is made which extends from one end of the goods to the
other, the cloth must be removed after each tuck, in order to insert the tuck just
made, in the guiding slot c, to determine the distance of the next one.
But by suitably joining the ends of the goods and forming them into an endless
band, I am enabled to continue the tucking process without having to remove the
goods after each tuck, and thus form one continuous tuck throughout the entire
piece.
P is the top of a table having an elevated portion X, which is on a level with
the top plate of the sewing machine. The base-plate C of the tucker is secured to
the plate of the machine, and extends to one side and lies upon the raised portion
of table P, the plate C¹ being screwed down upon it.
In the front of the table is journaled a roller Q.
Upon its back are journals R in which fit rods R¹ adapted to be vertically
adjusted therein by means of a thumb nut under the table. In the tops of these
adjustable rods, is journaled a rod 1 secured to the directing board S; this board
continues the inclination of the transverse pieces D and E of the tucker, its lower
edge approaching nearly to the top of the inclined tuck support F and thence
inclining upwardly to the back.
In its upper end is journaled a roller S¹ having a flange upon its inner end.
This roller may be journaled in any of the series of notches, made in the side pieces
of board S.
T is a brace pivoted to the back of the table P, its outer end being engaged in a
rack bar p under the board S.
This supports said board and provides for its change of inclination.

page_text: represents a tension roller suspended under the board, which may be used for
very light stuff.
The object of this construction is to provide for the adjustment of the directing
board, as follows:-The inner edge of the board is very nearly in a line with the
cross end j of guard J of the tucker, and the flange upon the inner end of the
roller S', defines the limit or fold of the goods.
When the guard J is moved to make a different width of tuck as explained, the
directing board must also be moved laterally to keep its position with reference to
said guard.
This it can do by reason of the rod ¹ journaled in the tops of rods R', because
said rod can be moved laterally when desired.
It becomes necessary to adjust the vertical position of the directing board, when
a wide tuck is being made, in order to support the goods in a position high enough
to direct the tuck within slot c. This is accomplished by the vertical adjustable
rods R¹.
The inclination of the board is changed by the brace T, to cause it to conform
to the inclination of pieces D and E after said board has been vertically
adjusted.
Let W represent the goods:
securing the two ends.
This is made into an endless band by properly
It passes over roller S¹ down the directing board S to the tucker, over roller Q
and under the table, up again to roller S¹. When the tension roller V is needed, it
may be passed over it. As the tucking progresses the part tucked is turned under
and when once started the process will continue. The cloth advances as the
machine draws it and the tuck is continuous, as are the threads of a screw, for the
tuck previously made is constantly passing through slot c, and the cross head j
always folds over for a new tuck. If I should not desire to feed the goods to the
tucker in an endless band, I could fold the bolt upon a table under a board S and
carry it up over the roller S' and deposit it in front.
The following is a description of my device for braiding, darning, binding and
felling.
In Fig 11 let D¹ represent the plate or top of the sewing machine A; E¹ is
the presser-foot and F¹ the presser arm.
The presser-foot is upon the end of the presser shaft E' which has a vertical play
in the ordinary manner.
G' represents the needle arm.
Let J' represent a metal plate, flat on its lower side, having on its upper side at
one end a raised flange o' in which is a slot p¹. It has small side shoulders or
offsets u³ and the slots q2 and 2 in its surface.
It has flange guides & on its sides and a wide end as shown. Let L' represent
another plate, having downwardly extending flanges V at its end for fitting over
the sides of plate J¹ and abutting against the shoulders ut.
It has a hole w¹, a slot a¹ and a downwardly turned end 62 fitting over the
end of the lower plate.
It has side flanges or guides y.
The plate L' is laid upon the plate J' the end of L¹ fitting over J, and the sides
of the former fitting and sliding within the flanges 83, and its end flanges v, fitting
over the sides of the plate J¹.
The hole w¹ falls over the slot q³, and the slots x³ and r² correspond. These two
plates thus put together are fastened to the plate of the machine by means of an
ordinary thumb-screw.
The end of the top plate extends downwardly.
By loosening the thumb screw the lower-plate J' may be drawn back away from
the upper plate L', its slot q² allowing it, so that the distance between the turned
down end of the top-plate, and the end of the lower plate may be increased or
diminished. In the space between the ends of the two plates, the braid passes.
The goods pass over the top-plate and have the stamp up.

page_text: The pattern is thus in plain sight and the operation becomes as plain sewing.
The braid is sewed on underneath, on the underside of the goods.
But the stamp could not be followed in its turn unless the goods were releived
from the presser-foot.
In order to do this, I have the metal strip A
One end has two arms or points Bs and C³, projecting at right angles, and each
point is provided with a set screw marked b and c respectively.
.
Upon the shaft E2 of the presser-foot is a projection a¹ in many cases a necessary
screw and here shown as such.
The metal strip A' is pivoted to the presser-arm as shown at d² by a thumb-
screw: one end of the strip passes under the projection or screw a¹ and the other
end extends forward, its point B³ being under the presser arm, and its point C³
under the needle arm.
By turning up screw in point C³, so that the oscillating needle-arm, in
descending will strike it, the strip A¹ will act as a lever: it turns on its pivot
point d², so that its end under screw a¹ rises and lifts the presser foot. This is
done at every downward stroke of the needle-arm. The advantage is that at the
downward stroke of the needle-arm, the needle penetrates the goods, and then is.
the moment to turn the goods having the needle as a pivot.
To do this the presser-foot must be raised to relieve the goods. This is done by
the strip A³ at the moment the needle penetrates.
When the needle is withdrawn, the presser-foot is dropped and the action of the
feeder is again accomplished.
Thus the cloth is momentarily releived from the presser-foot, and may be turned
and twisted to follow the stamp.
By turning up the screw b³ in point B³ of the strip A¹, the presser-foot may be
raised and adjusted at any point for different thicknesses of goods.
The operation of binding is also accomplished by the use of these devices.
Goods that require darning are generally thick and the presser-foot is usually too
close to the feeder to allow the goods the free play which is necessary.
In darning, the goods have to be fed back and forth for short distances; and to
raise the presser-foot by hand every time, is inconvenient and impracticable.
But by the set screw 63 I can nicely adjust the presser-foot for any thickness of
cloth and keep it out of the way. The plates J' and L' are adapted to receive a
third plate, P for accomplishing the operation of felling. The plate P¹ has a slot =¹.
and a hole g'. It has an extended head or end n¹ made with a slight spring.
The end of this head n' is turned down and under to form a groove or channel o³
as shewn.
In fitting the plate P¹ to the other plates, its end n' passes through the slot p¹
in the flange o¹ of plate J¹ and its sides fit under the side flanges or guides y of the
plate L'; its hole g¹ corresponds with the hole w₁ and slot q² of the other plates;
whilst its slot ¹ corresponds with the slots a¹ and r².
The hole g is to allow the thumb-screw to affect the lower plates and render
them adjustable. The slot ¹ renders the top-plate P adjustable. These three
plates are attached to the plate of the machine by a thumb-screw through slots
¹¹ and r²
By loosening the screw, the plate P¹ may be adjusted to adapt it to narrow or
wide felling. The edges of the goods are passed through the groove or channel o²,
one edge being thereby turned over on the other, as is usual.
The spring end n¹ together with the raised flange o¹ form an adjustable seain
gauge from which the goods can not get away or roll up, as when the ordinary.
gauge is used because in this, the goods are held on each side and on top as well.
The top being a spring, is adapted to receive the different thicknesses of cloth.
Having thus described my Invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure
by Letters Patent is :-
1st. In combination with a sewing machine, a tucking attachment consisting of
the base-plate C, and the guard J, adjustable lengthwise, and having a cross-head j

page_text: over which the goods are folded to form the required width of tuck, substantially
as herein described.
2nd. In a tucking attachment for sewing machines the base plate C, in combi-
nation with the guard J with its cross-head j, and the means for adjusting said
guard lengthwise, consisting of the pins k and land its slot through which said
pin fits substantially as and for the purpose herein described.
3rd. In a tucking attachment for sewing machines the base-plate C, in combi-
nation with the guard J and the means for holding said guard straight or swinging
it out of the way consisting of the bearing plate m secured to the outer end of said
guard and having a notched end k¹, the pivot pin. k upon plate I and the sliding
clutch plate m¹ substantially as herein described.
4th. In a tucking attachment for sewing machines, the base-plate C, transverse
inclined pieces D and E between the adjacent sides of which a slot or groove c is
formed, in which the measuring tuck travels, in combination with the adjustable
and swinging guard J with its cross head j around which the goods are folded,
substantially as and for the purpose herein described.
5th. In a tucking attachment for sewing machines the base-plate C, having the
transverse inclined pieces D and E between which is formed a slot or groove c, and
having a cross end c¹ and the stationary plate C¹ in the slotted end of which the
cross end c¹ of plate C fits, and is moved to adjust plate C lengthwise by means of
screw rod c² and the pinions i & ¹, in combination with the inclined bearing
plate I and the swinging adjustable guard J with its cross head j substantially as
and for the purpose herein described.
6th. In a tucking attachment for sewing machines having a tuck guiding slot or
groove c, the combination of the swinging guard J with its cross-head ; and the
underlying adjustable tuck securing plate K with its lip or flange a fitting said
slot substantially as and for the purpose herein described.
7th. In a tucking attachment for sewing machines having a tuck guiding slot
or groove c the combination of the swinging guard J with its cross-head j, said
guard being made in two sections having an adjustable joint Y¹ and the under
lying tuck-securing plate K with its lip or flange q fitting said slot substantially
as and for the purpose herein described.
.
8th. In a tucking attachment for sewing machines the base-plate C having a
transverse inclined piece D in combination with the transverse inclined piece E
said piece being adapted to move to or from piece D, by means of its slot fitting
over screw b, and the adjusting screw b' passing through said pieces D and E
substantially as and for the purpose herein described.
9th. In a tucking attachment for sewing-machines the combination of the
inclined pieces D and E and the adjustable inclined tuck supporting piece F
between them substantially as and for the purpose herein described.
10th. In a tucking attachment for sewing machines the transverse inclined
piece D in combination with the transverse inclined piece E between which and
piece D, a slot or groove c is formed, and the curved guiding plate or piece d.
near the lower end of piece E within slot c substantially as and for the purpose
herein described.
11th. In a tucking attachment for sewing machines the transverse inclining
pieces D and E and the adjustable and swinging guard J with its cross-head jin
combination with the adjustable and swinging guard H substantially as and for
the purpose herein described.
12th. In a tucking attachment for sewing machines having transverse inclined
pieces D and E and the adjustable and swinging underguard J with its cross-head j
in combination with the upper guard H, having a slot d adapted to fit over a
screw e, said guard being hinged to the piece E by the hinge G and adapted to
slide in said hinge whereby it may be folded over upon and adjusted against the
cross-head j substantially as and for the purpose herein described.

page_text: 13th. In a tucking attachment for sewing machines the upper guard H with its
upturned cross-end h, having vertical slots h¹, in combination with the angled
guide plate H' rendered vertically adjustable by means of the screws h² passing
into it through said slots, substantially as and for the purpose herein described.
14th. In a tucking attachment for sewing machines the sliding upper guard H
in combination with the guiding screw e and the adjustable stop-plate e¹ substantially
as and for the purpose herein described.
15th. In a tucking attachment for sewing machines the upper guard H, in
combination with the upper and lower sliding plates Z and Z¹, substantially as and
for the purpose herein described.
16th. The improvement in tucking goods consisting in feeding them to a tucking
device, in an endless band whereby an uninterrupted and continuous tuck may be
made, substantially as herein described.
17th. In combination with a sewing machine and a tucking device, a vertically
and laterally adjustable directing board S whereby the goods may be fed to the
tucker with precision, substantially as herein described.
18th. In combination with a sewing machine and a tucking device, a frame
consisting of the adjustable directing board S and roller S¹ for feeding the goods in
an endless band to the tucker substantially as herein described.
19th. In combination with a sewing machine and a tucking device, the inclined
directing board S, having a rod 1 journaled in the tops of vertically adjust-
able rods R¹ and supported by the adjustable brace T substantially as herein
described.
20th. In combination with a sewing machine and the tucking device herein
described, the table P with its roller Q, socket bearings R, rods R¹, the inclined
directing board S with its rod r¹, adjustable brace T and roller S¹ substantially as
and for the purpose herein described.
21st. In combination with a sewing machine and a tucker having transverse
inclined pieces D and E forming between them a slot c in which and over which
the goods are directed to the needle, the inclined directing board S with its
roller S¹ and rod and adjustable brace T and the table P with its roller Q,
bearings R and vertically adjustable rods R¹ substantially as and for the purpose
herein described:
22nd. In combination with a sewing machine, the attachment consisting of the
plate J¹ with its shoulders u', side flange guides S³ wide end t², and slots q² r³,
and the plate L' with its side flanges V, downturned end 62, hole w¹ and slot x¹
when arranged and used substantially as and for the purpose herein described.
23rd. In combination with a sewing machine having an adjustable presser-foot
and fixed arm, and an oscillating or vibrating needle-arin; the strip A¹, pivoted to
the presser-arm as shown, one end fitting under a screw or projection a' on the
presser-shaft and its other end provided with points B³ and C³ having screws b³
and c fitting under the presser-arm and needle-arm respectively, substantially as
and for the uses and purpose herein described.
24th. In connection with a sewing machine having an adjustable presser-foot
and fixed arm, and an oscillating or vibrating needle-arm, the combination of
strip A¹ with its points BS and C³, and the screws b³ and c³ and pivoted to the
presser-arm as shown, whereby its function is that of a lever acting upon the
presser foot at each stroke of the needle arm, and the attachment consisting of the
plate J with its guides and slots as shown and the adjustable plate L' with its
slots as shown and its down turned end 62 when arranged substantially as and for
the uses and purpose herein described.
25th. In combination with a sewing machine, the combined braiding and felling
device consisting of the plate J¹ with its guides, slots and slotted end flange o¹, the
plate L¹ with its down turned end 62 and side flange guides y, and the plate P¹
with its hole g¹, slot 2¹ and extended spring-head or end n³ having a turned under

page_text: flange forming a groove o², as shown when arranged and used substantially as and
for the purpose herein described.
In witness whereof I the said Alfred Ames Fisher have hereunto set my
hand and seal this Twelfth day of April A.D. One thousand eight hundred
and eighty two.
Witnesses
S. H. NOURSE
G. W. EMERSON.
ALFRED AMES FISHER. (L.S.)