An Improved Band or Tape for Binding upon the Edges of Cuffs, Collars, and similar parts of Shirts, or other like Articles of Wearing Apparel.
Year: 1892

page_text: Date of Application, 12th Sept., 1892
Complete Specification Left, 12th June, 1893-Accepted, 22nd July, 1893
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
An Improved Band or Tape for Binding upon the Edges of Cuffs,
Collars, and similar parts of Shirts, or other like Articles of
Wearing Apparel.
I, CHRISTINE THORNE, of 3 Perham Road, London, W., in the County of
London, Married Woman, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as
follows:-
My invention consists of a woven band or tape of linen thread, or other suitable
material, (or combinations thereof), to be used for binding upon the edges of cuffs,
collars, and fronts of shirts, or other like articles of wearing apparel. The invention
is especially adapted for use upon the worn and frayed edges of the articles above
named, whereby the said edges are renewed and made practically equal to new; but
my improved band or tape may also be applied to the edges of new material of
wearing apparel, as an additional protection, where the parts are exposed to great
wear.
The
In carrying my invention into effect, a band or tape is woven of linen threads
(for example), and it is usually made about half an inch in width. Some of the
longitudinal or warp threads, are made of a slightly heavier or thicker grade of
yarn, than the remainder of the warp threads. The selvedges may be made in any
known manner, but I prefer to place about three of the thick warp threads just
named next to each edge or selvedge of the tape; but in all cases I insert about
four or more of the said thick warp threads in the central part of the tape.
thick warp threads may be massed together in the centre of the tape, or divided.
and arranged at equal distances from the centre longitudinal line of the tape, with
one or more of the thin warp threads between the thick ones. Any suitable weft
thread, or style of weaving, may be employed in making the band in accordance
with the said thickened warp threads, and these latter may, if desired, be of a
different colour to the rest of the fabric. On the inner side of each selvedge one
or two warp threads are omitted in making up the warp, thus leaving a space on.
each side of the finished tape. This space, or openwork in the tape, serves as a
guide for the sewer in sewing on the tape to the edge of the garment, besides.
allowing for the thickness of the sewing, to some extent.
When made as above described, the band may be folded over longitudinally, in a
flattened or V form, so as to be ready for applying to the edges of the articles
already named. The band is secured to the edge of the article by hand or machine
sewing; and if this is neatly done, the band is scarcely-if at all-discernible from
the material to which it is sewn. The thickened central thread or threads, thus.
serve to protect the edge of a frayed or worn garment, and to give the latter a neat.
and regular edge; which, in many cases, will save the cost of new cuffs, fronts, or
other articles, or even of an entirely new garment.
It is to be understood that I do not limit myself to any particular width of band
or tape, or to the number or position of the thick threads therein. I am aware
that braid is used for binding or protecting the edges of garments composed of
cloth or other material but this is not in accordance with my invention.
Dated this 12th day of September 1892.
FAIRFAX & WETTER,
433, Strand, London, Agents for the Applicant.

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
An Improved Band or Tape for Binding upon the Edges of Cuffs,
Collars, and similar parts of Shirts, or other like Articles of
Wearing Apparel.
I, CHRISTINE THORNE, of 3 Perham Road, London, W., in the County of
London, Married Woman, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in
what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement :-
My invention consists of a woven band of linen thread, or of other suitable
material or combinations thereof, to be used for binding upon the edges of cuffs,
collars, and fronts of shirts; and other like articles of wearing apparel. The
invention is specially adapted for use upon the worn and frayed edges of the
articles above named, whereby the said edges are practically made equal to new.
But my improved band may also be applied to the edge of new material of wearing
apparel, as an additional protection, where the parts are exposed to great wear.
In carrying my invention into effect, a band is woven of linen threads (for
example), of about half an inch, or slightly more, in width. Some of the longi-
tudinal or warp threads are made of a slightly heavier or thicker grade of yarn than
the remainder of the warp threads, and these I distinguish as coarse and fine threads
respectively. In laying the warp, the threads are arranged, for example, as follows.
For each selvedge, two or three of the coarse threads, and in the centre, about six
coarse threads, are arranged, with about sixteen fine threads on each side between
the central and selvedge coarse threads. One of the coarse threads of each of the
selvedge threads is omitted from the warp; in order to form a guide way for the
sewing (when applying the finished article) and allowing for the thickness of
the sewing; for this purpose I sometimes draw out one of the coarse threads which
form each selvedge. Any suitable weft thread, or style of weaving, may be
employed in making the band; and the coarse warp threads, or some of them, may
be of a different colour or material to the remainder of the fabric.
After weaving, or while the work is on the machine, the band is folded
longitudinally in a flattened U or V form, so as to be ready for applying to the
edges of the articles already named, and to ensure its even application thereto.
The band is secured to the edge of the article by hand or machine sewing; and if
neatly done is scarcely discernible from the material to which it is sewn. Previous
to this latter operation, however, it is desirable in some cases, to draw up one of the
coarse threads on the inner side of each selvedge, next to the guide way, so as to
slightly gather up the band and enable the latter to pass a square or rounded
corner in a neat manner. The coarse central threads lay along the edge of the
garment, and thus serve to protect the same. If the garment is worn or frayed at
the edge, the band will impart a neat and regular line; which will save the cost of
new fronts, cuffs, or other article; and by means of the guide way for the sewing,
the band is firmly attached close to its edge to the garment; so that in ironing
the latter, the smoothing-iron will more readily pass over the edge of the band
without raising it.
In the further description of the invention, reference is made to the accompanying
drawings in which
Fig. 1 is a plan of one form of my improved band, laid out perfectly flat;
Fig. 2 is a transverse section of the same;
Fig. 3 is also a transverse section but doubled over and applied by sewing to the
edge of a cuff shown by a partial plan in Fig.4.
Fig. 5 is also a plan of a slightly modified form of band, laid out flat.
In all these drawings, except Fig. 4, the scale is greatly enlarged and parts are
exaggerated (especially of the warp threads) in order to show the invention
more clearly.

page_text: In these drawings, a, a, indicate coarse threads, and these are the longitudinal or
warp threads on each selvedge edge; b, b, indicate the central coarse threads;
and c, c, the fine threads (about sixteen) which intervene on each side between the
central and selvedge coarse threads. In Figs. 1, 2 and 5, a central space (indicated
by d) is sometimes left on each side by omitting a coarse thread from the selvedge
warp threads to form a guide way for the sewing when applying the band to the
finished article; or one of the coarse threads is drawn out, as previously stated.
The method of applying the band to a garment is indicated in Figs. 3 and 4, where
a band is shown as attached by the sewing d to a cuff e. In rounding the corner of
the cuff e, the inner warp threads a are slightly drawn so as to gather up the band
to the requisite degree before sewing to the cuff; and this ensures an equality and
neatness to the work when completed. In Fig. 5 the outer warp or coarse threads a
are smaller than the inner ones a (which are exaggerated), and the latter threads.
are drawn up to gather the band sufficiently for turning a curved or square corner;
and the sewing d is done just outside of the same.
It is to be understood that I do not limit myself to any particular width of band,
or to the exact number or position of the thick threads therein, or of the material
thereof. I am aware that braid is used for binding the edge of garments, and that
ordinary tape may be used for a similar purpose to that which I have in view; but
these are beyond the scope of my invention and I make no claim thereto; but
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is ;-
1. An improved band for binding on the edges of cuffs, collars, or other like
articles of wearing apparel, substantially as and for the purpose herein described
and illustrated by the drawings.
2. An improved article of manufacture consisting of a woven band having in
combination central and selvedge coarse warp or longitudinal threads with
intervening fine warp or longitudinal threads, substantially as and for the purpose
herein shown and described.
3. An improved article of manufacture consisting of a woven band having a
guide way for sewing immediately adjoining a coarse selvedge thread made capable
of drawing up the fabric, substantially as and for the purpose herein shown and
described.
4. An improved article of manufacture consisting of a woven band having in
combination central and selvedge coarse warp or longitudinal threads with inter-
vening fine warp or longitudinal threads, the said band being folded longitudinally
in a flattened or V form, substantially in the manner and for the purpose herein
shown and described.
Dated thin 10th den of Tune 1802
FAIRFAX & WETTER,
433, Strand, London, Agents for the Applicant.