IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS EMPLOYED IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BONNET AND CAP FRONTS, ROUCHES, AND OTHER MILLINERY TRIMMINGS
Year: 1864

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Charles Grey Hill, of Commerce Square, High Pave-
ment, in the Town and County of the Town of Nottingham, Lace
Manufacturer, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR
APPARATUS EMPLOYED IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BONNET AND CAP FRONTS,
ROUCHES, AND OTHER MILLINERY TRIMMINGS,"
Sealed the 30th August 1864, and dated the 1st March 1864.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Charles Grey Hill at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
1st March 1864.
I,, CHARLES GREY HILL, of Commerce Square, High Pavement, in the
Town and County of the Town of Nottingham, Lace Manufacturer, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR
APPARATUS EMPLOYED IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BONNET AND CAP FRONTS, ROUCHES,
AND OTHER MILLINERY TRIMMINGS," to be as follows:-
My Invention consists of three improvements. The first consists in using
certain additional apparatus in conjunction with certain rollers similar to those
described as rollers B and G, (or B and C,) in the Specification of a Patent
granted to me jointly with one William Jackson, dated 5th July 1862, and

page_text: numbered 1952. To such rollers, I add two pairs of goffering chains, the
axles of the aforesaid rollers may be supported or turn in bearings attached
to standards supporting the axles of the two pairs of goffering chains, one
pair of such chains is placed at each side of the rollers, and one side of each
pair of such chains is close to the sides of the rollers next them, each pair of
chains instead of being placed upon axles passing across the machine as here-
tofore are passed round axles which project inward from each standard, the
above rollers revolving in the space between the ends of the projecting axles.
Both pairs of chains are moved simultaneously, and are so arranged in
respect of each other that each pair of chains will goffer an edging of lace
or other fabric supplied to them, and hold them in a goffered form until the
required portion of both such edgings which stands out beyond the edges of
the chains has been passed between the before-mentioned "rollers, which will
press such portion of the edgings and cause it to adhere to each. edge of a
lace quilling or other fabric supplied to and passing between the rollers. The
materials are supplied with the required moisture, gum, or other substance by
means of rollers similar to those described in the aforesaid Specification. By
the above arrangements I-place a goffered edging of lace or other fabric on
each flat face quilling or other fabric. The goffering chains I employ are
such as make a plain goffer, each goffer being of the same size; or I employ
chains arranged in any of the forms indicated in the Specification of a Patent
granted to me, and dated 22nd November 1859, numbered 2645; or chains
composed in any of the above forms, whether made wholly or in part of links
hereafter described; in either case I arrange such two pairs of chains so that
the wires, arms, or links will speedily release the goffers they have formed,
when the materials which are being pressed together have passed over the
centre of the above-mentioned rollers.
My second improvement relates to the wires, bars, or rods of any of the
shapes shewn or described in the Specification of my said Patent, No. 2645.
According to this improvement such wires, bars, or rods, instead of having
axles formed at each end in the centre of such ends, have their axles formed
on one side of the centre of the ends, whereby I form a chain of such wires
bars, or rods by means of straight stemmed links instead of the cranked or
crooked stemmed links shewn at Figures 9, 11, 12, and 13 of the Drawings
accompanying the Specification of my said Patent No. 2645.
In my third improvement I use a pressing or making-up machine, similar
to that described in the Specification of my Patent dated 18th July 1860, and
numbered 1695, but having either the upper or lower bar moveable, and

page_text: having the pressing faces of each bar of various widths, either curved or
otherwise shaped at the sides instead of having the sides parallel, by which
I
press one, two, or more variously shaped fronts or parts of fronts of
rouches or other millinery trimmings together, and make such parts up with
other parts, whether straight or otherwise shaped in a straight bar, press, or
making-up machine.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Charles Grey Hill in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
1st September 1864.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, CHARLES
GREY HILL, of Commerce Square, High Pavement, in the Town and County
of the Town of Nottingham, Lace Manufacturer, send greeting.
:
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the First day of March, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-four, in the twenty-seventh year
of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant
unto me, the said Charles Grey Hill, Her special licence that I, the, said
Charles Grey Hill, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such
others as I, the said Charles Grey Hill, my executors, adininistrators, and
assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time
and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should, and
lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom
of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an
Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS EMPLOYED IN THE
MANUFACTURE OF BONNET AND CAP FRONTS, ROUCHES, AND OTHER MILLINERY
TRIMMINGS," upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said Charles
Grey Hill, my executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under
my, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe
and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the
same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal
Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the date
of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Charles Grey Hill, do hereby declare
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following

page_text: statement thereof, reference being had to the accompanying: Drawings, and..to
the letters and figures marked thereon, that is to say :-
.
My Invention.consists of three-several improvements,..arrangements, .or
combinations of machinery or apparatus.. The first of these consists in using
.certain additional apparatus, herein-after described, in conjunction with
goffering chains, arranged as herein-after described, with certain rollers similar
to the two rollers marked and described as the rollers B and G, with their
accessories, in the Specification of a Patent granted to me jointly with one
William Jackson, bearing date, the 5th day of July 1862, and numbered
1952. To these rollers with their accessories, described in such Specification,
I add, according to my present Invention, two pairs of goffering chains
mounted on axles disposed in the manner herein-after described. The axles
of the two rollers before, mentioned (B.and.G) may be supported by or turn
in bearings attached to standards, such standards also supporting the axles of
the two pairs of. goffering chains, one pair of such chains being.placed, at each
side of the rollers, and one side of each pair of such. chains being in close
proximity to the sides of the rollers next them. Each pair of chains, instead
of-being-placed-upon axles passing -across- the machine,; as heretofore, are
-passed-round-axles-which-project-inward-from-each-standard. The rollers
above described revolve in the space between the ends of the projecting axles.
Both pairs of chains-are-moved-simultaneously, and-are-arranged-in-such-wise
in respect of each other that each pair of chains will goffer a lace edging or
other fabric supplied to them and hold it-in a goffered form until the required
portion of both such lace edgings or other fabric which stands out beyond the
edges of the chains has been passed between the before-mentioned rollers,
which said rollers will press such portion of the lace edgings or other fabric
and cause it to adhere to each edge of a lace quilling or other fabric supplied
to and passing between the rollers. The. materials are supplied with the
required moisture, gum, gelatine, or their equivalent substance, by means of
rollers similar to those described in the. Specification of my aforesaid Patent,
No: 1952 (1862). By the above arrangements. I succeed in placing a goffered
lace edging or other fabric on each flat lace quilling or other fabric. The
goffering chains I employ are such as make a plain goffer, each goffer being
of identical size; or I employ chains composed and arranged in any of the
various shapes and forms indicated in a former Specification of a Patent
granted to me, and dated the 22nd day of. November 1859, numbered.2645,
or chains composed in any of the above forms, whether made wholly or in part
of links, herein-after described. In either case, however, I so arrange. such

page_text: two pairs of chains 'as that the several wires, arms, or links will speedily
release the goffers which they have formed, when the materials which are
being pressed and caused to adhere together have passed over the centre of
the above-described' rollers.
:
My second improvement relates to the wires, bars, or rods, of any of the
various shapes shewn in my said Specification of my said Patent, No..2645
(1859). According to my second improvement such wires, bars, or rods,
instead of having axles formed at each end in the centre of such ends, have
their axles formed on one side of the centre of the ends, whereby I am enabled
to form a chain of such wires, bars, or rods, by means of straight-stemmed
links in lieu of the cranked or crooked-stemmed links shown at Figures 9, 11,
12, and 13 of the Drawings accompanying the Specification of my said
Patent No. 2645 (1859).
My third improvement relates to a pressing or making-up machine similar
to that described in the Specification of a Patent granted to me, and bearing
date the 18th day of July 1860, numbered 1695; and my third improvement
consists in having either the upper or lower bar moveable, and in making the
pressing faces of each bar of various widths, either curved or otherwise shaped
at the sides, instead of having the sides parallel, by which means I am enabled
to press one, two, or more variously-shaped fronts or parts of fronts, or rouches
or other millinery trimmings, together, and make such parts up with other
parts, whether straight or otherwise shaped, in a straight-bar press or making-
up machine.
Having thus set forth the nature of my Invention, I now proceed. more fully
to describe the manner of performing it with reference to the Drawings,―
Figure 1, Sheet I, is a sectional view, and Figure 3, Sheet 2, is a plan of
a combined machine, including my first. and second improvements, herein-
before referred to.
:
•
Figure 4, Sheet 3, is a side view, and Figure 5, Sheet 4, is a sectional view
of my improved pressing or making-up machine arranged according to my
third improvement.
Figures 6, 64, 7, 8, and 9, Sheet 5, represent portions of variously-shaped
pressing bars or pressing surfaces forming part of such making-up machine;
and Figures 10- to 17, both inclusive, Sheet 6, represent certain apparatus
which are capable of variation, and which I employ in the making-up
machine, and this said apparatus I purpose more particularly to describe in
due course.
A. A. Figures 1 and 3. represent a pair of standards capable of being

page_text: adjusted upon bars B, B, at any required distance apart, the bars take into
grooves on the under side of the feet of the standards; these bars B, B, are
firmly secured to the table or bench upon which the machine is placed. Each
of these standards is provided with four bearings C which project from the
outer side of the standards and are capable of adjustment in slots cast in the
standards. In the bearings of these standards run axles D and D', round
which the goffering chains revolve, they (the goffering chains) being kept in
place by pulleys D2, which pulleys are secured on or form part of the axles D
and D. These goffering chains are composed of double-ended links E, one of
which said links is shown at Figure 2, Sheet 1; each such link has a wire, bar,
rod, or tube, E soldered, rivetted, or otherwise secured to its upper edge, or the
upper edge of the links E may be made of the form required and be in one piece
with the links by having the links cast; in either case, however, the projecting
arms are turned one quarter round, so as to stand at right angles to the upper part
of the link before being rivetted to the other links to compose or form a chain; but
I do not confine myself to chains composed or formed of links E, and wires, bars,
rods, or tubes E', as I employ chains composed, formed, and arranged in any of
the-various shapes and forms indicated in the Specification of a former Patent
granted to me, and dated the 22nd day of November 1859, numbered--2645;
or chains-composed-in any of the above described forms, whether made wholly
or in part of links similar to that shewn at Figure 2, berein-before just de-
scribed in this my present Specification, or wholly or in part of links shewn and
described in the Specification of my said former Patent, dated the 22nd day of
November 1859, numbered 2645; in either case, however, I so arrange such
two pairs of chains as that the several wires, arms, or links will speedily
release the goffers they have formed when the materials, which are pressed
and caused to adhere together, have passed over the centres of a pair of rollers,
which I will presently berein-after describe. Instead of using wires, bars, rods,
or tubes having axles formed at each end in the centre of such ends, I use
wires, bars, rods, or tubes having axles formed on one side of the centre of the
ends, whereby I am enabled to form a chain of such wires, bars, rods, or tubes
by means of straight-stemmed links in lieu of the cranked or crooked stemmed
links shewn at Figures 9, 11, 12, and 18 in my herein-before mentioned Spe-
cification of my said Patent numbered 2645 (1859). The pairs of rollers
which cause the materials to adhere, and by which they are pressed together,
are marked in this my present Specification F, similar rollers being marked
B and G in the Specification of a Patent granted to myself and William.
Jackson, dated the 5th day of July 1862, numbered 1952. These rollers F

page_text: are adjustable upon their axles F, which pass through the standards A, A, on
each side of the goffering chains; these said rollers F are secured the required
distance apart, and the upper rollers are pressed upon the lower rollers by the
upper axle being passed through holes in the upper ends of links F, which
are weighted, as required, at their lower ends, and the inner ends of the wires,
bars, rods, or tubes form the goffering chains, which, instead of being placed
upon axles passing across the machine as heretofore, are placed round axles
which project inwards from cach standard, and are placed in close proximity
to the sides of the rollers next them; the rollers above described revolve in
the space between the ends of the projecting axles of the goffering chains.
Both pairs of chains are moved simultaneously, one pair of chains are caused
to revolve by their axles being geared together by the wheels G upon one pair
of axles D, and upon the lowest axle is also a wheel G', which gears into a
similar wheel G upon the upper axle F' of the rollers F. This upper axle F
has also a wheel at or near its opposite end, which said wheel gears into a
similar wheel on the lower axle F', by which means the two rollers are driven
simultaneously. There is also on the lower axle F1 another wheel, which
gears into a similar one on the outer end of the upper axle D¹ for the purpose
of driving the goffering chains, which are passed round the axles D'; the
wheels on the outer end of the axles F and D¹ are not shown in the Drawings,
the axles being shown as broken off at the outer side. Both these pairs of
chains are arranged in such wise in respect of each other that each pair will
goffer a lace edging or other fabric supplied to them, and hold it in a goffered
form until the required portion of both such lace edging or other fabric
which stands out beyond the edges of the chains has been passed between the
rollers F, which said rollers F will press each portion of the lace edging or
other fabric, and cause it to adhere to each edge of a lace quilling or other
fabric supplied to and passing between the rollers, the materials being supplied
with the required moisture, gum, gelatine, or other equivalent substance, by
means of rollers similar to those described in the Specification of my former
Patent, numbered 1952 (1862); the axles of such said rollers may run in
bearings forming part of or projecting from the standards A before mentioned,
or they may be provided with separate standards, as shewn at Figure 3, H, H,
being the standards; I, the lower roller of any required size; and K, K, the
two adjustable upper rollers, which may be placed any required width apart,
and covered with any convenient substance for the purpose of damping or
supplying with gum, gelatine, or other equivalent substance the edges or other
parts of a lace quilling or other fabric. One of these standards H has the

page_text: bearing for one end of the axle of the roller I somewhat longer than the one
on the other standard, and on the end of the axle projecting from it is secured
a pulley L, round which a cord or belt is passed, which cord or belt also passes
round a large pulley M secured on the lower axle D; the pulleys are in such
proportion to each other that the rollers K, K, will in passing over the lace
quilling or other fabric moisten or otherwise prepare the lace quilling or other
fabric supplied to them at the same rate as the rollers F, F, press and cause
the lace quilling or other fabric to adhere to the goffered lace edging or other
fabric supplied to them with it. The lace quilling or other fabric is passed
under a bar or roller N, and between the adjustable guides O, which may be
regulated by a screw, as shown from either side of the machine, and after
passing between the rollers I and K the quilling or other fabric is or may be
passed under a bar or roller N¹, and between guides 0', '0', previously to being
pressed by the wheels F. The quilling guides O', O¹, may be made of such
length that they shall project closely to the circumferences of the rollers F; if
required; the plates upon which the guides O and O' are adjustable can also
themselves be adjusted upon the brackets or standards to which they are
secured. Above or on the top of the plate carrying the quilling guides O' are
secured other plates, upon which are placed the adjustable edging guides P; P,
the respective positions of which determine the width of edging or other
material projecting beyond the inner ends of the goffering wires E. By the
arrangement above described I succeed in placing a goffered edging of lace or
other fabric on each side of a flat lace quilling or other fabric, the edgings and
quilling are only shewn in Figure 1; 0* represents the quilling or other fabric,
and P¹ represents the edging or other fabric.
.
My third improvement relates to a pressing or making-up machine similar
to that described in the Specification of my former Patent herein-before
referred to, numbered 1695 (1860), and this improvement consists in having
either the upper or lower bar moveable, and in the pressing faces of each bar
of various widths, either curved or otherwise shaped at the sides in lieu of the
sides being parallel, such a machine having, for example, the lower "bar
moveable, I will now proceed to describe.
"This machine consists of two standards A, A, see Figures 4 and 5, Sheets 3
and 4, which are connected together by a tie bar B, which tic bar supports
three axle pins, upon which are free to turn the forked and jointed levers C,
through the forks of which is passed a strong round bar D, upon which bar D
are secured three driving cams E. To one end of the bar D is secured a fly
wheel F. On the boss of this wheel is firmly fixed a forked bracket or

page_text: bearing G carrying a truck H, which bears against the incline of a boss I,
cast on the side of one of the standards A, by which means, as the wheel is
turned in the direction of the arrow, the three driving cams E will be forced
nearer the fly wheel end of the machine, thereby causing the jointed levers to
unfold themselves and drive upwards the lower pressing bar K, which has
three projecting pieces on its under side on the central portion thereof, against
and in which said pieces the upper ends of the levers C rest. This pressing
bar K is formed hollow on each side of the central portion, and at each end of
such hollow portion are secured short pieces L, which carry pipes L', pierced
for gas jets. These pipes are connected as shewn, and provided with a stop-
cock L, attached by a flexible tube to a pipe L³, which is provided with a
stop-cock L, attached to a pipe pierced for gas jets, and supported by pieces
secured to each standard A.. The gas jets impinge or nearly impinge upon
the upper side of a recess on one side of a pressing bar M firmly attached to
the upper ends of the standards. On the lower side of this bar M are two
small pressing arms N, which bear upon the ends of a pair of guides or
trays which may be placed between them as they are pressed up to them by
the springs O, which are secured on each side of the pressing bar K; upon
the ends of each pair of these springs.O is secured a carrying piece P, upon
which one pair or more of guides or trays. are placed, the springs O giving way
as the guides or trays are pressed up to the arms N, by which means. I obtain
an equal pressure on both sides towards the centre of the thickness of the
materials which are being made up into a front or fronts, or rouch or rouches,
or parts of the same. At one end of the pressing machine I place a strong
spring R which bears upon the end of the round bar D, thereby conducing
towards a counterbalance of the weight of the fly wheel F and facilitating the
working, of the machine.
Figure 6, Sheet 5, represents in plan the pressing portion of the moveable
pressing bar K, which has in its widest parts recesses K¹ cast in it, there being
similar recesses M' in the upper bar M. In these recesses certain pattern
formers are received, such pattern formers occupy positions in the tray or
trays corresponding to such recesses. It will be readily understood that. the
pressing surfaces of the pressing bars only require to be recessed when the
parts so recessed are so wide that they will not pass in the space between the
ends of the pattern formers on each side of them.
Figure 64, Sheet 5, represents one end of the moveable pressing bar K,
shewing the V-end which slides in the V-shaped recesses in the standards A.
Figures 7, 8, and 9, Sheet 5, represent portions of the pressing surfaces in

page_text: plan, which are marked K. It must be understood that do not confine
myself to the precise curves or other shapes shewn, but I. vary them as
required.
"
Figures 10 to 14, Sheet 6, represent a number of the above-named
pattern formers which I employ in the trays or guides in the above described
press or making-up machine; such trays and pattern formers constitute the
apparatus first referred to in my present Specification. A portion of one side of
a guide or tray is marked R, and the pattern formers in each view are
marked S, and tho quilling or other fabric, where shewn, is marked T. These
trays have deep sides, and are connected at each end by a right and left handed
screw, by the employment of which the sides are adjusted. These trays are
more particularly described in the Specification of a Patent granted to me,
numbered 2462. (1861). The pattern formers are made of thin brass or
other metal, and are either straight or curved, and are placed inside the trays
or guides in any way required opposite each other according to the pattern
required to be made, the upper or lower side or edge of each pattern-former
being bent so as to clip or embrace the sides or edges of the several trays
around or between these pattern formers, and when so arranged I place plain
or goffered edged or plain lace quilling or other-fabric,-and-between, in, or
around such quilling I place other quilling, edging, rosettes of quilling or
edging, or other materials, or flowers or other ornaments, and place such tray
in the above described making-up machine or in a straight-barred making-up
machine, and press the materials, whereby, by making the pressing faces of
each bar of the machine of various widths, either curved or otherwise shaped
at the sides instead of having the sides straight and parallel, I am enabled
to press one, two, or more various shaped fronts or parts of fronts or rouches
or other millinery trimmings together, and make such parts up with other
parts, whether straight or otherwise shaped, in a straight bar press or making-
up machine.
" It will be also obvious to a practical mechanic that I can form the same
patterns by making holes in the sides of the guides or trays and passing pins
through their several holes upon which to form the various patterns. I also
use pattern formers made of wire and brass.
Having now described the nature of my said Juvention and in what manner
the same may be performed, I declare that I claim,―
First, the combination of two pairs of chains having the ends of the wires,
bars, rods, or tubes working in close proximity to the edges of the pressing
rollers as described.

page_text: Second, the employment in my pressing or making-up machine of a
moveable upper or lower bar and of bars with pressing faces curved or otherwise
shaped at the sides, as described.
Third, the general arrangement and combination of machinery or apparatus-
herein-before described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Charles Grey Hill, have hereunto set
hand and seal, this Thirty-first day of August, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-four.
my
› Witness,
GEO. JON. ROBINSON,
Patent Office, Nottingham.
CHARLES GREY HILL. (L.S.)