IMPROVEMENTS IN Appa- RATUS FOR CRAPING HAIR OR OTHER FIBROUS MATERIALS
Year: 1874

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to James Jowett, Hair Merchant, of Bradford, in
the County of York, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN Appa-
RATUS FOR CRAPING HAIR OR OTHER FIBROUS MATERIALS."
"
1
Sealed the 29th December 1874, and dated the 16th July 1874.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said James Jowett at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
16th July 1874.
I, JAMES JOWETT, Hair Merchant, of Bradford, in the County of.
York, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN APPARATUS FOR CRAPING HAIR OR OTHER FIBROUS MATERIALS," to be.
as follows, that is to say:―
.
This Invention relates to winding, twisting, or folding hair, or other
fibrous materials, round and along with continuous cords or wires called
cores, plaiting it. The hair or fibrous materials thus plaited are boiled,

page_text: and afterwards stoved or dried, and-when drawn off the cores it retains
the crimping or bends received by the plaiting. For this purpose I
employ an apparatus having two cones fitted on shafts working in
brackets formed on a cast-iron frame; the cones have cach two studs
fitted to them, actuating a hollow or tubular spindle, through which
passes the hair or other fibrous material to be operated on. The studs
cause the hollow or tubular spindle to move between and alternately
round the cones in opposite directions, carrying the hair or fibrous
material in a zig-zag manner round the cords or wires, that is to say,
round the cores of the plait.
The hollow or tubular spindle is made taper at the end, and through
it passes the hair or fibrous material to be wound, twisted, or folded
round the cores, carrying the material alternately round and in opposite
directions. The taper end works in an upright fork which rises & falls
with the hollow or tubular spindle.
The hollow or tubular spindle passes between two disks or excentric
plates fitted in the frame, and in these disks or excentric plates are
fitted spindles having bobbins..on. which are wound the cords or
wires forming the core. These cords or wires from the bobbins pass
along the spindles and enter hollow recesses formed near the ends,
passing from thence to the points of the spindles which join the taper
end of the hollow. or tubular spindle. The spindles carrying the bobbins.
have an alternate motion and work in opposite directions, and are
actuated by the disks or excentrics; on these spindles are fitted pins
over which pass the cords or wires acting as breaks forming a drag and
keeping an even tension.
The hair or fibrous material having been plaited passes through two
plates fitted near the taper end of the hollow or tubular spindle, and
passes from thence through two fluted rollers fitted in frames and having
springs and set screws giving the necessary pressure to the hair or
fibrous material. These rollers are actuated by a ratchet wheel which
receives motion through a ratchet lever' worked by a lever fitted on a
stud working in an eccentric fitted on the end of one of the shafts of
the cones.
The cones are actuated by bevel wheels fitted on the cone shafts.
Between the tops and bottoms of the cones are fitted tongues working
alternately round the cones for the purpose of keeping the taper end of

page_text: the hollow or tubular spindle always central, preventing damage. These
tongues come in contact with short levers fitted in the frame, throwing.
the tongues from one cone to the other.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent
○ filed by the said James Jowett in the Great Seal Patent Office on
the 16th January 1875..
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JAMES
JOWETT, Hair Merchant, of Bradford, in the County of York, send
greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Sixteenth day of July, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-four, in the thirty-eighth
year of Her reign, did,. for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and
grant unto me, the said James Jowett,. Her special licence that I, the.
said James Jowett, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such
others as I, the said James Jowett, my executors, administrators, and
assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time
and at all times during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully
might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of
Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an"
Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN APPARATUS FOR CRAPING HAIR OR OTHER
FIBROUS MATERIALS;" upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said¨
James Jowett, my executors or administrators, by an instrument in
writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should parti-"
cularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in
what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be
filed: in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar. months next
and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
+
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said James Jowett, do hereby declare
the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to
be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement, reference being had to the Drawings here-
unto annexed, and to the figures and letters marked thereon, that is
to say:

page_text: .
'This Invention relates to winding, twisting, or folding hair or other
fibrous materials, round and along with continuous cords or wires called
cores, plaiting it. The hair or fibrous materials thus plaited are boiled'
and afterwards stoved or dried, and when drawn off the cores it retains
the crimping or bends received by the plaiting. For this purpose I
employ an apparatus having two cones fitted on shafts working in
brackets formed on a cast-iron frame; the cones have each two studs
fitted to them actuating a hollow or tubular spindle, through which
passes the hair or other fibrous material to be operated on. The studs
cause the hollow or tubular spindle to move between and alternately
round the cones in opposite directions, carrying the hair or fibrous
material in a zig-zag manner round the cords or wires, that is to say,
round the cores of the plait.
'
The hollow or tubular spindle is made taper at the end, and through
it. passes the hair or fibrous material to be wound, twisted, or folded
round the cores carrying the material alternately round and in opposite.
directions. The taper end works in an upright fork which rises and falls
with the hollow or tubular spindle.
The hollow. or tubular spindle passes between two disks or excentric
plates fitted in the frame, and in these disks or excentric plates are
fitted spindles having bobbins on which are wound the cords or
wires forming the core. These cords or wires from the bobbins pass
along the spindles and enter hollow recesses formed near the ends,
passing from thence to the points of the spindles which join the taper
end of the hollow or tubular spindle. The spindles carrying the bobbins
have an alternate motion and work in opposite directions, and are
actuated by the disks or excentrics; on these spindles are fitted pins
over which pass the cords or wires acting, as breaks forming a drag
and keeping an even tension.
The hair or fibrous material having been plaited passes through two
plates fitted near the taper end of the hollow or tubular spindle and
passes from thence through fluted rollers fitted in frames and having
springs and set screws giving the necessary pressure to the hair or
fibrous material. These rollers are actuated by gear.
The cones are actuated by bevil wheels fitted on the cone shafts..
Between the tops and bottoms of the cones are fitted tongues working
alternately round the cones for the purpose of keeping the taper end of

page_text: 1
incline by means of the spring M fitted in a tube N which is fixed on:
the frame B, a reverse action taking place when the bolt J travels in
the other cone; the bolt head is made bevil to keep a true face, and the:
end of the bolt J fits in a boss O in which is fitted a hollow tubular
spindle P through which passes the hair or fibrous material; this
spindle P receives the same action as the bolt J; on the boss Ot is.
formed a projection in which is fitted a guide rod Q working in the..
guide R; the hair or fibrous material X. coming from the bobbin S is
passed through an eye T formed on the guide rod Q: The tubular.
spindle P works between disks or excentrics U fitted in a frame V; this
frame is supported on columns W bolted to the foundation plate A;
the disks or excentrics U are actuated by the tubular spindle. P, and
have an alternate motion actuating the spindles Y and Y¹, over which
pass the cords or wires Z forming the core. The bobbins 1 on which
are wound the cords or wires are fitted on spindles 2 which pass through
the disks or excentrics U, and in the bent ends of the guides 3. To
remove an empty bobbin and replace it by a full one, the spindle.2: is
drawn out; on the guides 3 are fitted springs 4 and: 27, forming breaks,
producing a drag, and keeping an even tension on the cords or wires
coming from the bobbins; the cords or wires pass through openings
made in the guides 3 and under the springs 4, then through openings 5-
made in the centre of the disks or excentrics U over the spindles Y
and Y and through eyes formed on the end of the spindles; these
spindles Y and Y¹ have pins 6-fitted in them, over which pass the cords
or wires; these pins act as breaks, giving a drag and an even tension:
The disks or excentrics U overlap to prevent the locking of the tubular
spindle P, and have cut-off parts 7 to allow the disks or excentrics to
move freely one within the other and give a free action when changing
or reversing; guides 8 are fitted on the disks or excentrics for turning-
them the reverse way. The end P of the tubular spindle P is made-
taper, and the hair or fibrous material' passes through. it; this end is-
changed according to the size of the plaiting required to be operated
on, and the hair or fibrous material is made to pass over the tube P at 9,
producing a drag and keeping an even tension. The hair or fibrous
material coming through the tubular spindle P. and taper end P¹, is-
carried round. by the action of the bolt. J over one or other of the
spindles Y, and then carried round the other way; the hair. or fibrous
material is drawn-in-between the spindles and the tension sets the plait;~
the plait formed is carried onwards by means of fluted rollers 10, 11,
.

page_text: substantially as herein-before described and represented in the accom-
panying Drawings.
In witness whereof, I, the said James Jowett, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Fifteenth day of January, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-five.
Witness,
GEORGE FALSHAW.
JAMES JOWETT. (L.S.)