Improvements in the Manufacture of Lace Fabrics and in Apparatus employed therein.
Year: 1890

page_text: PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Lace Fabrics and in Apparatus
employed therein.
We, EDWARD ELSEY, Lace Manufacturer, of Russell Street Works, and
SYLVESTER THOMAS KIRK, Mechanic, of Gamble Street, both in the Town and
County of the Town of Nottingham, do hereby declare the nature of this inventiod
to be as follows:-
The invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of fabrics on twist lace
machinery and in the "wheels" and co-operating parts of the apparatus employen
therein so as to enable the operator to produce readily and advantageously on such
twist lace machines three or more combinations of various ground nets, finings,
embossed cloth work, and openworks by a novel means of attainment. In carrying
out the improvements in the apparatus applicable to twist lace machines.
In a twist lace machine of usual construction we employ four or more guide bars
which we use as warps or spool bars also three or more feeding bars to be used for
either spool or warp threads also two Jacquards in which we work double or single
action also with centre action wo use specially constructed jacks or interceptors of
such a length and thickness as will enable us to "jack" or intercept one or the whole
of the bars as desired. Jacks used in twist machinery of the ordinary construction
slide backwards and forwards in tricks or sley underneath the back comb bar which
divides one jack from another leaving the space of one gait, between which rises
and falls to one or more gaits as required.
In our improved apparatus we use one trick bar or sley underneath the back comb
bar referred to. We also use when required another trick bar or 'sley underneath
the front comb bar, so that when the jacks come in they enter the front sley which
supports and keeps the jacks from closing together when the threads are pressing
on the jacks for any number of gaits.
In carrying out our first combination, in the manufacture of lace fabrics we use
four or more guide bars, threaded according to the number of bobbins employed in
the machine. By the means employed we attain complete control over all or any
portion of the threads. For example when the threads are not required to make
fining cloth or openwork they are not obliged to pillar, but by the action of the
Jacquard on certain motions of the wheels they remain loose, and by action of
Jacquard or other motions of the wheels we can pillar each motion or at any desired
notion, or otherwise tie them in for fining nets or cloth by being enabled to let the
threads remain loose, tie, in or pillar or traverse any number of gaits as required.
We produce a variety of grounds of various angles and shapes not heretofore
produced on twist lace machinery by these means.
According to a modified combination we can use three or more guide bars one we
thread in every alternate guide that is to say one spool thread to every two bobbins
threads, by this method we can traverse a number of gaits filling in each wail with
net-the points of net being in opposite directions to each other, which is under the
control of the jacks.
In carrying out a third combination we use a suitable number of guide bars
as already described in the two previous combinations.
With suitable wheels and Jacquard selecting apparatus we can make cross fining
at each motion of the carriage to the back and to the front-or at every motion of
the carriage in front or in back or every other motion or at any desired motion,

page_text: thereby enabling us to make various greys or shades, also divers thicknesses of
clothing work one or the whole of the bars can
" cloth at the same time.
If required coloured threads in each of the combinations may be employed.
Deted the 7th day of March 1890
WM. BROOKES & SON,
55 & 56, Chancery Lane, London, Agents for the Applicants.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION..
Improvements in the Manufacture of Lace Fabrics aud in Apparatus
employed therein.
We, EDWARD ELSEY, Lace Manufacturer, of Russell Street Works, and
SYLVESTER THOMAS KIRK, Mechanic, of Gamble Street, both in the Town and
County of the Town of Nottingham, do hereby declare the nature of this inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described
and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
The invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of fabrics on twist lace
machinery and in the "wheels" and co-operating parts of the apparatus employed
therein so as to enable the operator to produce readily and advantageously on such
twist lace machines three or more combinations of various ground nets, finings,
embossed clothwork, and openwork by a novel means of attainment.
In carrying
out the improvements as applied to twist lace machines we employ say a twist lace
machine of usual construction having four or more guide bars which we use as warp
or spool bars also three or more feeding bars to be used for either spool or warp
threads also two Jacquards in which we work double or single action also with
centre action we use specially constructed jacks or interceptors of such a length
and thickness as will enable us to "jack" or intercept one or the whole of the bars
as desired. Jacks used in twist lace machinery of the ordinary construction slide
backwards and forwards-in-tricks_or_sley_underneath the back comb bar which
divides one jack from another leaving the space of one gait, between which-it-rises-
and falls to one or more gaits as required.
In our improved apparatus we use one trick bar or sley underneath the back
comb bar referred to. We also use when required another trick bar or sley under-
neath the front comb bar, so that when the jacks come in they enter the front sley
which supports and keeps the jacks from closing together when the threads are
pressing on the jacks for any number of gaits.
In carrying out our first combination in the manufacture of lace fabrics we use
four or more guide bars, threaded according to the number of bobbins employed in
the machine. By the means employed we attain complete control over all or any
portion of the threads. For example when the threads are not required to make
fining cloth or openwork they are not obliged to pillar, but by the action of the
Jacquard on certain motions of the wheels they remain loose, and by action of
Jacquard on other motions of the wheels we can pillar each motion or at any desired
motion, or otherwise tie them in for fining nets or cloth by being enabled to let the
threads remain loose tie in or pillar or traverse any number of gaits as required.
We produce a variety of grounds of various angles and shapes not heretofore
produced on twist lace machinery by these means.
According to a modified combination we use three or more guide bars in which
are full threaded or threaded in every alternate guide and by this method we obtain
a variety of ground nets and the points can all be to the right or all to the left or
part to the right and left as required also we are able to pillar one thread on two
wailes either one or the other so that the point of net can be in whichever direction
is required at will.
In carrying out a third combination we use a. suitable number of guide bars as
already described in the two previous combinations. With suitable wheels and

page_text: Jacquard selecting apparatus we can make cross fining at each motion of the
carriage to the back and to the front or at every motion of the carriage in front or
in back or every other motion or at any desired motion, thereby enabling us to
make various greys or shades also divers thicknesses of clothing work one or the
whole of the bars can "cloth" at the same time.
If required coloured threads in each of the combinations may be employed.
Jacquard selecting apparatus we can make cross fining at each motion of the
carriage to the back and to the front or at every motion of the carriage in front or
in back or every other motion or at any desired motion, thereby enabling us to
pake various greys or shades also divers thicknesses of clothing work one or the
whole of the bars can "cloth" at the same time.
If required coloured threads in each of the combinations may be employed.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.
Fig. 1 represents a sectional end view of part of a machine arranged according
to our invention. d, d¹, d², d", represent the arrangements of spool or warp
threads, a', a², a³, are a portion of jacks or interceptors, c, c', c², c³, are guide bars
which carry threads to carriage; b and 6' are the tricks or jack guides, of which
front views are given separately by Figs. 2 and 2, d', ds, d', are feeding bars, dis
a lingo or weight for taking up any slack in the thread d. do, do, do, are thread
sley guides, d, d, d, are spool boards; d³, d, d' represent yarn spools; ie
the warp beam for thread <.
Figs. 3 to 14 shew face views of wheels or cams adapted for carrying out our
improved combinations.
Fig. 3 represents a jack cam for pressing the jack through the threads.
Fig. 11, a can for moving the jacks from right hand to the left band.
Fig. 7 a cam for operating guide- or warp-bar c, with thread d.
Fig. 6 a single cam for operating the guide-bar c³ with the thick thread (³.
Fig. 10 is a double motion cam for operating the guide-bar c³ with thread ds.
Figs. 4, 5, 8, 9, 12, 13, 14 are cams for operating the guide bars c' c² with the
fine threads a d².
In our first combination we use cams Figs. 6, 7, 8, 9, 11, 12 and 13; when
making plaited pillars we use cams, 6, 7, 11, 12, 13, and when making twisted
pillars, cams, 6, 7, 8, 9, 11.
In our second combination we use cams Figs. 4, 5, 6, 7 and 11.
In our third combination we use cams Figs. 7, 10, 11, and 14.
Their several motions are herein before described.
f indicates the bobbin, its carriage, f2 are comb bars therefor, and its
thread.
The following description of the soveral parts and their separate movements will
facilitate better comprehension of our invention.
According to our first combination of lace in ichinery, we use four guide bars or
warp bars c, cl, c², c³, (see Fig. 1) which are threaded according to the number of
bobbin threads in the machine, we use three spool boards, d³, d, with full sets of
spools d', we use three feeding bars d', dt, d, which pull off the required yarn for
take up, we also use tvo Jacquards one full lift and one half lift, we use peculiarly
formed jacks, a', a², a³, (see Fig. 1) of a length and thickness which enables us to
jack or intercept one or the whole of the bars required, also to divide the thread
one gait when pressing on the sides from right to left. Each jack is connected to
a Jacquard by two cords a', a', one for the full lift Jacquard and one for the half
lift Jacquard. Jack a" is represented as being lifted out by the full lift Jacquard
for making cloth. Jack a² is being lifted out by the half lift Jacquard for making
fining. Jack a is shewn left in for making pillar or keeping threads loose.
making cross finings cloth and open-work, we use wheels or cams such as shewn by
Figs. 6 to 13, Fig. 11 is the can for moving the jacks from right to left the space
of one gait or more. Fig. 10 is the cam for operating figure guide bar c³ with
thick thread which can move any required number of gaits, Fig. 12 is the cam
for operating the guide bar with thread which moves one or more gaits,
Fig. 13 is the cam for operating guide c¹ with thread d' which moves one or more
gaits in opposite directions. Figure 7, as aforesaid, is cam for operating warp
bar c with thread d. The jack as is shewn with full lift Jacquard drawn clear of
all threads for making cloth. To make fining jack a shown operated by half lift
For

page_text: Jacquard is drawn clear of warp and spool threads 'd² and prevents thread bar c³
from moving allowing threads d', d to traverse the requisite extent of motion to
make open works. Jacks operated by half lift Jacquard come in on No. 1 motion
and out on No. 2 motion repeated any numbor of times for the required mesh then
jacks come in on No. 2 notion and out on No. 1 motion any number of times
reversing from No. 1 motion to No. 2 motion as required.
DESCRIPTION OFT HE WHEELS.
When the carriages are in the back combs the jack bar moves one gait to the
left by means of the cam Fig. 11 the bar falls three gaits, the bar crises one
gait, the bar c rises one gait, warp bar c carrying thread d falls one gait, the jack
is put through the threads by the cam Fig. 3. The bar c* falls two gaits, bar c
rises one gait, bar c¹ falls one gait and the carriages pass into the front combs.
The bar crises three gaits, the bar c falls two gaits, bar c remains stationary.
The jacks come in, bar crises two gaits, bar c² rises one gait, bar c' falls on a
gait, and the warp bar c rises one gait and the carriages pass into back .combs.
The same motion repeated with the jack bar thread bar c' and warp bar, bar c²
and bar c are reversed to the first notion-rises for falls and falls for rises-and
the full motions are completed.
In effecting our second combination we use three or more guide bars either full
threaded or threaded in alternate gaits and we use wheels or cams Figs. 4, 5, 6, 7.
When the carriages are in the back combs the jack bar falls one gait, bar c' falls
two gaits, bar c² or crises two gaits, the warp bar falls one gait, the jack is pressed
in, the bar c falls two gaits, bar ca falls one gait, the carriages pass through the
threads into the front combs, the jack bar rises one gait, bare rises three gaits, the
warp bar rises one gait, the jacks come in, bar crises one gait, the bar c' falls oue
gait, the carriages pass into the back combs and the motions are completed.
According to our third combination we use four guide bars full-threaded also
wheels or cains to operate-the-guide bars as shewn by Figs. 10, 11 and 14. The
carriages in the back combs the jack bar falls one gait-the-bar-cfalls three gaits
the bar crises one gait the bar c¹ falls one gait the warp bar falls one gait, the
jacks are pressed through the thread by the cam Fig. 3, the bar c³ falls two gaits,
the bar e falls one gait, the bar el rises one gait the carriage passes into the front
combs the jack bar rises one gait the bar's rises three gaits the bar c³ rises one
gait the bar c' falls one gait the warp bar rises one gait the jacks are pressed in the
bar rises two gaits the bar crises one gait the bar c falls one gait and the
carriages pass through the threads into the back combs and completes the motion.
We do not however confine ourselves to these precise combinations or to any
specified number of gaits in any of the bars.
In addition to the before described mode of working of each bar in each of the
described arrangements we also when required traverse the warp bar two or more
gaits to enable us to produce a greater variety of effects.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what wo
claim is:
The various combinations of and method of working apparatus for manufacturing
lace fabrics in twist lace machines substantially as hereinbefore described and
illustrated by the accompanying drawings.
IST day
WM. BROOKES & SON,
55 & 56, Chancery Lane, London, Agents for the Applicants.