IMPROVEMENTS MACHINES
Year: 1865

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Michael Henry of 68, Fleet Street, in the City of
IN
IN SEWING
London, Patent Agent, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS
MACHINES."-A communication from abroad by Joseph Louis Kieffer
and Charles Nicolas Erny, both of 33, Boulevart Saint Martin, Paris,
France
Sealed the 27th March 1866, and dated the 5th October 1865.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Michael Henry at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
5th October 1865.
I, MICHAEL HENRY, of 68, Fleet Street, in the City of London, Patent
Agent do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for " IMPROVEMENTS
IN SEWING MACHINES," "communicated to me from abroad by Joseph Louis
Kieffer and Charles Nicolas Erny, both of 33, Boulevart Saint Martin, Paris,
France to be as follows:-
This Invention relates principally to sewing machines for stitching button
holes. The machine is so constructed according to these improvements
that besides its feed motion the foot and the plate on which the fabric rests
have a to-and-fro motion during which the needle may make two strokes,
one in the fabric, another in the hole, and which may be doubled or extended,
and the feed motion stopped to obtain two or more stitches at one place for
fastening the threads. The stitching is thrown up and strengthened by
ונס ...

page_text: carrying a continuous thread under it. For these purposes the machine is con-
structed as herein-after described.
I will first mention that the needle shuttle and foot may be driven by
rollers and levers, the needle carrier having a dovetail fitting in its frame, and
the thread controlled by a break on the reel being led through a fixed and a
moveable guide. The foot lever may be connected with the framing by a
strap, and the feed motion obtained by a cranked rod adjusted by a screw, a
spring raising the foot, when a screw which presses on a collar on a motion
shaft comes over a recess therein.
To carry the Invention into effect the foot works in a groove in a frame
moving in a guide way, in which it is disposed by a dovetail fitting. The
needle-carrier frame is connected with an arm branching from a block or
barrel, and bearing on a cam on a motion shaft. The plate on which the
fabric is fed is fitted to another arm branching from the block; the appliance
bears on the framing by a roller working in a guide groove. An elastic strap
attaches the upper arm to the framework, so that the appliance may be
worked by the cam. The travel of the foot is limited by a piece which I call
a check," and which is held by stud fittings; it bears on the regulator, and
is forced towards the cam by a spring; it has a projection or neh, which
engages in a slot below the lower arm, and being away from the end of the
slot when the roller bears on the raised part of the cam, stops the lower arm
in its return stroke and keeps the roller from the sunken part, so that the
distance of the projection from the end of the slot regulates the to-and-fro
travel of plate and needle. This distance is adjustable by screw and ratchet
and pawl. When the pawl is released, the check being acted on by a spring
lifts the bar. which regulates the feed and stops the screw, so that the to-and-
fro travel becomes increased or multiplied, while the usual feed motion stops;
thus two or more fastening stitches may be made. An adjusting screw in the
regulator works the stud fitting of the check.
•
Besides the ordinary driving or motion shaft, another shaft is used, con-
nected with it by gearing so toothed or contrived that the former turns more
quickly than the latter, say, twice as fast; the first carries the needle and
shuttle cams, the latter carries the to-and-fro motion cam, the lifting cam, and
the feed-motion collar. The hole is kept opened by a stud held by a spring;
the work is steadied by a spring guide on the foot frame, which presses on the
fabric between the branches of the foot, but with less pressure. A thread led
through the plate against the stud is worked under the stitching.
For plain sewing the collar may be divided in halves, or recessed on
opposite sides to work the foot twice while the shaft turns once, and there are

page_text: two raised parts on the cam. The to-and-fro motion may be stopped by
releasing the wheel from the cam by screws or otherwise. The hollow on the
collar may be filed up with a screw plug, and the raised part fitted on by a
screw, so as to be removeable. Vandyke stitch may be made by adjusting
the screw of the branched appliance towards the cam, so as to allow it to form
a zig-zag.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Michael Henry in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 5th
April 1866.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, MICHAEL
HENRY, of 68, Fleet Street, in the City of London, Patent Agent, sond
greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Fifth day of October, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and sixty-five, in the twenty-ninth year of Her reign,
did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the said
Michael Henry, Her' special licence that I, the said Michael Henry, my
executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Michael
Henry my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the
term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland the Channel
Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING
MACHINES," communicated to me from abroad by Joseph Louis Kieffer and
Charles Nicolas Erny, both of 33, Boulevart Saint Martin, Paris, France,
upon the condition. (amongst others) that I, the said Michael Henry, my
executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their,
or one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the
nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be per-
formed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within
six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters
Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Michael Henry, do hereby declare the
nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed,
to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement
thereof, as communicated, to me, reference being had to the accompanying
Drawings, that is to say:-

page_text: This Invention relates to sewing machines, and has principally for object to
adapt them for stitching button holes. The machine is so constructed according
to these improvements that beside its feed motion the foot and the plate on
which the fabric rests have a to-and-fro motion, during which the needle makes
two strokes, one in the fabric and another in the hole, and this motion is
doubled or extended, and the feed motion stopped to obtain two or more
stitches at the same place for fastening the threads at each end of the hole.
The stitching is thrown up and strengthened (for button-hole stitching) by
carrying a continuous thread under it. For these purposes the machine is
constructed as herein-after described.
I will first mention that the .needle shuttle and foot may be driven as in
ordinary machines by cams, rollers, and levers, the needle carrier fitting in a
dovetail groove in its frame, and the thread being led through a fixed and a
moveable guide; the feed lever or lever of the feed foot may be connected
with the framing by a strap, and the feed motion obtained by a cranked rod
adjusted by a screw, a spring raising the foot when a screw which presses on
a collar or plate on a motion shaft comes over a recess therein.
To carry the Invention into effect the foot works in a groove in a frame
moving in a guide way, in which it is disposed with a dovetail fitting. The
needle bar or carrier frame is connected with an arm branching from a block
or barrel, and bearing on a cam on a motion shaft. The plate on which the
fabric travels as fed forward is fitted to another arm branching from the
block; the appliance, that is to say, the said two-armed or branched block, bears
on the framing' by a roller working in a guide groove. An elastic strap
attaches the upper arm to the framework so that the appliance may be worked
by the cam. The travel of the foot is limited by a piece which I call a check,
and which is held by studs fitting in slots; it bears on the regulator and is
forced towards the cam by a spring; it has a projection, neb, or nose piece
which engages in a slot below the lower arm, and being away from the end
of the slot when the roller bears on the raised part of the cam stops the lower
arm in its return stroke and keeps the roller from the sunken part, so that
the distance of the projection from the end of the slot regulates the to-and-fro
travel of plate and needle. This distance is adjustable by screw and a
ratchet tooth and pawl or detent. When the tooth and detent are disengaged,
the check being acted on by a spring lifts the feed regulating bar and stops
the screw, so that the to-and-fro travel becomes increased or extended while
the usual feed motion stops; thus two or more fastening stitches are made in
one place. An adjusting screw in the regulator works the stud fittings of the
check.

page_text: Beside the ordinary driving or motion shaft another or second shaft is used,
connected with it by gearing so toothed or contrived that the former shaft
turns more quickly than the latter, say twice as fast; the first shaft carries the
needle and shuttle cams, the latter carries the to-and-fro motion cam, the
foot lifting cam, and the feed motion plate or collar. The hole is kept open.
by a stud held by a spring, the work is steadied by a spring guide on the
frame of the foot, such spring guide pressing on the fabric between the branches
of the foot, but with less pressure. A thread led through the plate against the
stud is in the instance of button-hole stitching worked under the stitching.
For plain sewing the collar or feed motion plate may be formed in halves or
recessed on opposite sides, so as to work the foot twice while the shaft turns
once, and two raised parts are formed on the cam. The to-and-fro motion
may be stopped by releasing the wheel from the cam by unscrewing it or other-
wise. The hollow on the collar may be filled up when required by a screw
plug, and the raised part fitted on by a screw so as to be removeable. Vandyke
stitch may be made by adjusting the screw of the branched appliance towards
or with respect to the cam so as to allow it to form a zig-zag.
I now proceed with reference to the accompanying Drawings to describe
more particularly in what manner the Invention may be carried into effect.
I will first mention that in the ordinary sewing machine the fabric is stitched
in one direction only, whether the stitching proceed in a straight or a curved.
line, whereas according to. this Invention the machine is adapted for stitching
button holes or stitching in both directions, the stitching being first performed.
on one side or edge of the hole, and then after the thread has been fastened at
the end, as presently described, the stitching is proceeded with along the oppo-
site side or edge of the hole, and the thread fastened at the further end in the
same manner. The ordinary way of forming a stitch may be used, in which
the needle enters the fabric with its thread, and in rising forms a loop, through
which a thread is passed by the shuttle, the fabric being fed forward by a presser
or foot. Now in this improved machine, as I have before stated, a to-and-fro.
motion is communicated simultaneously to the presser or foot and to the
plate on which the fabric rests, such to-and-fro motion being independent of
the ordinary feed motion, and during this to-and-fro motion the needle performs
two strokes, one in which it enters the fabric and makes the usual stitch
therein, and the other in which it enters the hole, and as soon as two such
stitches have been made, one in the fabric and one in the hole, the fabric or
material is fed forward for other two such stitches, and so on till the stitching
comes to the end of the hole, when the extent of the to-and-fro stroke of the
plate and foot is doubled and the feed motion stopped, so that three or more

page_text: stitches are made in one spot, thereby fastening the thread; the machine. is
then stopped while the button hole is turned round on or about the needle,
and its position being thus reversed the machine is again put into action, and
the other side or edge of the button hole is stitched, and the thread fastened
by three or more stitches at one place.
Figures 1 and 3 are elevations of opposite sides of a machine constructed
according to these improvements; Figure 2 is a plan; Figure 4, horizontal
section on line A3, B*; and Figure 5, section on line C, D, of Figure 1.
a is the fly wheel attached to the driving pulley W; b is the needle cam
formed with a groove equidistant from its edge and of square section; in this
groove or cam path a roller works; this roller is connected with the arm or
lever d, which works the needle; the roller is not in a piece with or rigidly
attached to such lever d; but is connected therewith by a pin, which forms the
axis of the roller and is fitted in the end of the arm d, so that the roller turns on
its axis as it travels in the cam path, thereby undue friction is prevented; the
needle bar or carrier is at the opposite end of the arm d; c is the shuttle
cam, also having a groove like that in the cam b; in this cam path (formed
in c)-a roller works, such roller being connected by its axis with one end of
the shuttle driver, so as to be free to turn as it travels, that is to say, in the
same manner as the roller in the cam path of b is connected with the lever d;
his. the guide way in which the shuttle driver works. The wheel a and
cams b, c, are mounted on the main shaft a³, which carries the driving
pulley W; e is the needle bar or carrier which slides up and down in a guide
way formed in an upright fixed to the framing, this guide way is of
dovetailed shape, the broad end inward. With this needle carrier a flat
sided roller is connected by its axis, so as to be free to turn as it travels in
similar manner to the rollers above described; such roller works in a slot in
one end of the arm d; this slot is of sufficient length to allow the arm the play
necessary to accommodate its travel, because the end of the arm describes a
curved path, whereas the pin or axis of the roller works in a straight path; f
is the spool or bobbin carrier made in two parts, one being a fixed rod or core
over which fits the other part, which is tubular and connected with the spool by
a feather; this tubular part carries a small pulley, over which passes a strap, the
ends of which are held by the nut of an adjusting screw, which is regulated to
put any required tension on the thread and is fixed in position by a binding nut.
The rod g carries a thread guide, through which the thread passes from the
spool, having first been led through a stationary eye, and after leaving the guide g
it passes through a guide hole in the needle plate, and thence into the eye of
the needle. By this arrangement the thread is kept in a proper state of

page_text: tension, but nevertheless with sufficient freedom to work with the needle, for
which latter purpose the rod g is free to be depressed when the shuttle passes
through the loop, and it is pushed up again by a horizontal lifting rod on the
needle bar. The shuttle driver is forked at the end to receive the shuttle,
the fork being wide enough to allow the shuttle its reciprocating motion and
sufficient play for the thread to work. A is the foot or presser, on the top of
which is a roller B, on which pressure is exerted by an arm or lever i, such
pressure is produced by a caoutchouc strap k, which connects the arm ȧ with a
fixed point on the general framing X, and this pressure is taken off periodically
by a cam which depresses one end of the arm and raises the other, the strap k
thereupon yielding.
The foot A (Figure 3) works in an upright guide way t, from which it is
prevented from escaping by a flat spring L, whereof one end bears on the
under surface of a boss on the foot and raises when pressure is taken off the
roller B. At the same time as the foot is raised as just described, a cranked
or bent rod t forces it forward to an extent or distance corresponding with the
interval required between the stitches, which of course is previously regulated
as desired. This rod t is horizontal at one part and is supported by journals,
one of which is adjusted by a screw and nut, so as to regulate the oscillating
or partially rotary motion. At one end the rod t is bent, such bent end
bears against the lower part of the foot or presser in a direction reverse of the
pressure exerted by the spring L. The rod t is also bent at its opposite end S,
which end carries a screw parallel to the shaft of the wheel a. The end of
this screw is capable of pressing against the feed motion collar or plate s, and
when it exerts such pressure the action of the flat spring L is overcome. In
the thickness of the collar or.plates is formed a recess or hollow, and when
the screw comes to this part it ceases to exert pressure on the foot A, and
thus releases it to the action of the spring L, which at once resumes its pressing
effect on the foot.
Now the parts of the machine which I have above described in reference to
the Drawings are parts of the ordinary sewing machine, though they are used
in the improved sewing machine constructed according to the present Invention,
and I now proceed to describe the parts of the machine which, arranged and
combined as herein explained, form the novel and distinctive features of this
present Invention. The foot or presser A travels up and down in a guide way
formed in a piece or upright t, fixed on an edge piece or frame, and capable
of being worked horizontally in a dovetailed guide groove; u is a shaft driven
by the shaft a, as herein-after explained; n is a piece or block, on which is an
arm n, connected with the needle carrier frame; on one end of the piece n² is

page_text: a roller, whereby it bears on a cam r, keyed on the shaft
Figure 2. The feed
motion collar or recessed plate s is mounted on the shaft u; m is the plate on
which the fabric or material to be stitched is supported. This plate, which is
over the shuttle race, has a to-and-fro motion communicated to it corresponding
with the to-and-fro motion of the foot or presser, and for the purpose is con-
nected with another and lower arm N branching from the piece n*. The end
of this piece n which bears on the cam r is kept in contact therewith, so as
to partake of its to-and-fro travel, thus the arms n, N, bear one against the
moveable frame of the foot or presser, and the other against the plate over
the shuttle race. At the other end the whole appliance n, N, n³, bears upon
the framing of the machine by means of a roller beneath the part n* working
in a hollow rail or guide way. A caoutchouc strap k* connects 'the upper
arm n with a fixed point on the framing X, and thus the whole appliance is
connected with the cam and receives motion therefrom; p is a bar, rod, or
arm, which I call a check, and which acts as a stop to regulate the travel of
the foot or presser. This check p, Figure 3, rests at one end on the general
framing X, to which it is held by a square fixed stud y, Figure 2, engaged in
a slot in the bar p, so that the latter may be adjusted to the required position.
At its other end the bar or check p rests on the regulator C, and it is held at
that end by a stud E, Figure 3, passing through a slot in the bar p, as
described with respect to the stud at its opposite end; G is a spring, which
forces the check p towards or against the cam. At a part over this spring the
bar p is formed with a projection, neb, or nose piece, which engages at its
upper end in the edge of a recess formed in the under side of the lower part
of the arm N, when the roller attached to the piece n bears against the pro-
jecting part of the cam; this neb or nose piece being at some distance from the
right-hand end of the recess stops the return motion of the arm N, and prevents
the roller from bearing on the recessed or hollow part of the cam; thus the
distance or space between the right-hand end of the recess and the corre-
sponding side of the nose piece regulates the to-and-fro travel of the plate and
needle; such distance or space is varied or regulated as required by a screw
which moves a ratchet tooth D to and from a detent or clawker q, which
when in contact with the tooth holds it in the desired position. When the
tooth D is released from the detent q the arm p is forced by the spring G into such
position as to stop a screw fitted at one end of the feed motion regulating bar
or arm S, such stopping action being effected by the arm p lifting one end of
an arm R in a piece with the bar S. The length of to-and-fro travel then
increases, while the foot or presser ceases to feed the fabric or material for-
ward, but so holds it as to move it with it in its to-and-fro travel. This action,

page_text: namely extending the to-and-fro travel of the plate and foot and stopping
the feed motion, is performed when the stitching of either side of the button
hole is completed, and the thread is to be fastened at the end thereof. This
increased length of travel at the ends is double the length of travel required.
when stitching the sides. Now for this purpose another adjusting screw is
used, such screw is engaged in a regulator C, and moves the pin E in either
direction as required. V, V³, are toothed wheels in gear with each other;
the wheel V has twice as many teeth as the wheel V; for example, the wheel
V may have 50 teeth and the wheel V 25, the wheel V drives the wheel V,
which of course makes one revolution while the wheel V makes two. The
wheel Vis keyed on the shaft a, and the wheel V on the shaft. u. Hence
the parts mounted on and directly driven by the shaft a work twice as fast
as those mounted on and directly driven by the shaft u. Now in this is-
involved the main distinctive feature of the Invention; for in the ordinary
sewing machine the material is moved or fed forward one interval by the-
foot or presser at each stroke of the needle, therefore in such machine only
one shaft is required for carrying and driving the needle cam, the shuttle cam,
the feed motion lifting cam, and the feed motion recessed plate or collar,
whereas in the improved machine the four cams or driving appliances are not
mounted on one and the same shaft, because, instead of the fabric being fed.
forward one interval after each one stitch, it is fed forward in this machine after
every two stitches, that is to say, two stitches instead of one are made between
every one forward motion of the fabric. For this purpose in this improved
machine the needle cam and the shuttle cam are mounted on the main
driving shaft a* which carries the driving pulley, while a second or supple-
mentary shaft u is used, on which are mounted the three following appliances,
namely, the cam, which effects the to-and-fro motion; the lifting cam,"
which lifts the presser or foot; and the feed motion recessed plate or collar,
by which the presser or foot is propelled, such second or supplementary shaft.
being so geared as to make only one revolution while the driving shaft performs
two revolutions. This constitutes the main point of distinction between the.
ordinary machine and the improved machine, and this additional motion shaft
is necessitated by the to-and-fro motion communicated to the presser or foot
and the plate (which motion is itself a new feature), and by the circumstance.
that the presser or foot has two motions independent of each other.
ท.,
Figures 4 and 5, is a peg or stud of square section formed with a knife-edged
top which projects over the plate m in front of the eye of the needle, and is
This stud is introduced into the
supported at bottom by a flat spring.
button hole to keep it open, so that the needle may pass more freely into it.
"

page_text: and work at the proper place. The stud also serves as a guide to keep the
fabric in the proper direction or position for being acted on by the needle.
o is a spring guide for keeping the fabric steady at the button hole or part
opérated on and prevent it from shifting in anywise. This spring guide o is so
placed that its lower end bears on the fabric between the claws of the presser
or foot, and its other end is provided with an upright screw I, which presses
the spring upon the fabric, but with a less degree of pressure than that
exerted by the presser or foot, so that the regular feed motion is not interfered
with, the spring guide or presser o steadying the material while being stitched,
but yet allowing the foot to feed it forward as required. The thread, which,
as before mentioned, is worked under the stitching so as to raise it or throw
it up, is led beneath the table which supports the machine and conducted
through two orifices in the plate m and through the button hole, and it is
then led against the stud m* at the side at which the stitching of t
the button
hole is to be commenced. The first two stitches suffice to catch up the thread
into proper position, and it then continues working regularly under the
stitching threads' without requiring further attention, and when it comes to
the end of the button hole it is fastened in with the thread at such end, and
turns or reverses its direction so as to work under the thread or stitches on
the opposite side of the button hole.
Having described how the machine is used for button holes, I proceed to
state that the to-and-fro motion of the plate and of the foot of presser may
also be used for whipping or overcasting (surjet). that is to say, for stitching
on the edge of a fabric when the longitudinal thread which is worked under
the threads in stitching button holes is not employed, or in other words,
when only two threads are used, namely, the needle thread and the shuttle
thread. The stud is used as a guide in this arrangement. For
plain or single stitching the needle and shuttle are caused to operate and
form a stitch, as in the ordinary machine, while the following arrangement
is adopted to communicate a regular progressive motion to the foot or
presser. For this purpose the plate or collar s is made in two similar parts,
that is to say, two similar recesses are made in it, öne being on each side of the
collar or plate; these recesses are diametrically opposite each other, so that
the collar or plate s moves the foot or presser twice while the supplementary
motion shaft turns once. The same arrangement is adopted with respect to
the projection or swelling on the cam or plate which drives the foot or
presser; two of those projections or swellings (instead of one) being formed
thereon and placed diametrically opposite each other, hence the arm is lifted
twice while the additional motion shaft turns only once; this follows

page_text: because such shaft works once while the parts driven directly by the main
shaft work twice to stop the to-and-fro motion. The screw of the wheel which
acts on the cam 7 may be actuated by the two screws placed one on each side
of the block or piece n³, and the wheel being then moved away from the
cam the latter ceases its action thereon, and thus the to-and-fro motion of the
plate and foot will be stopped. The recess in the collar or plate s may be
filled up when required by screwing in a plug, and the raised part may be a
separate piece screwed on and off, so that it may be removed when the
machine is to be used for a button-hole stitch, when it would be
too high for it. A vandyke or zig-zag stitch may be made by so adjusting.
the screw of the piece n³, with respect to the cam 7, that it shall work in a
zig-zag path, the piece s still having a double action, so that it shall commu-
nicate a motion to the foot or presser, which may be readily regulated by a
screw in the arms; a regular zig-zag stitch is thus produced, and on reversing
its direction (by reversing the motion of the fabric) the zig-zag stitch will be
formed in an opposite direction, so as to form a square stitch.
Having now described the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner
the same may be performed, I declare that I claim,―
First, communicating a to-and-fro motion to the presser or foot and to the
plate independently of the ordinary feed motion, and employing a supple-
mentary or additional motion shaft for carrying and working certain of the
working parts, substantially as and for the purpose described.
Second, the general arrangement and combination of parts constituting the
improved sewing machine, substantially as described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Michael Henry, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Fifth day of April, in the year One thousand eight
hundred and sixty-six
Witness,
M. A. GREEN,
68, Fleet Street, London.
M. HENRY. (L.S.)