IMPROVEMENTS IN BUTTON- HOLE SEWING MACHINES
Year: 1869

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Isidor Nasch, of Berlin, in the Kingdom of
Prussia, Manufacturer, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN BUTTON-
HOLE SEWING MACHINES."
Scaled the 19th April 1870, and dated the 11th November 1869.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Isidor Nasch at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
11th November 1869.
I, ISIDOR NASCH, of Berlin, in the Kingdom of Prussia, Manufacturer,.
do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN.
BUTTON-HOLE SEWING MACHINES," to be as follows:-
In this machine two needles and four threads are employed. One
needle receives its thread from a loose spool; this thread passes an eye
fixed in a plate, then goes through the eye of a tension spring, and
thence through the eye of the said needle; another thread unwinding
from a doubly fixed spool passes through an eye, then through the eye
of the tension spring, and is therefrom conducted through the other
needle; the gimp thread is on the third spool; the latter is likewise'
doubly fixed, and from it the gimp goes through the eye of a. steel

page_text: spring, thence through the eye of a conducting rim, then through two
holes in a bow or curved piece, and out of the lowermost of these holes it
runs freely. The fourth thread lies on the reel in the shuttle under the
slide of the feed motion. Inside the shuttle which travels through the
loops of the two upper threads there is a spring with an eye for the
purpose of directing the thread automatically. This spring keeps the
thread wound upon the spool at the same tension throughout its motion;
this is an essential feature of my Invention, as by this very fact the
uniformity of the seam is effected.
By turning the driving axle two
conical wheels are set in motion; an excentric plate is attached to the
larger wheel; on the former there is a small draw bit, which by alternate
motion in the joint enables the bow or curved piece above mentioned to
swing to the right and left around its turning point. Above the joint
pin there is a steel spring attached to the said bow, which when the bow
stands to the extreme right will hold the spool fast, so that it cannot
revolve, and the gimp is then stretched; there is also a cranked hook
inserted into the tension plate. The other parts are the same as those
of other shuttle machines and require no further explanation. By
turning the driving axle the two needles move downward; the first needle
which is fine passes through the stuff to be sewn, whereas the second
needle which is coarser or thicker merely stitches close by the stuff;
the bow moves simultaneously to the left, and assumes a perpendicular
position when the needles are at the very lowest point, while the threads
of the two needles form a loop through which the shuttle passes. The
driving axle communicates a twofold movement to the bow, namely,
first a rectilinear, and subsequently a circular movement; this motion
is produced by the small conducting rim at the head of the machine and
a hinge on the bow, which hinge is in due time pressed against the said
conducting rim by a small spring fixed at the top of the bow. The
bow then places the thread of the second needle upon the thread of the
first needle while the stuff is moved on by the feed mechanism and the
needles are lifted; the driving axle continuing its motion the two
needles again descend and stitch over the gimp, while the bow moves
to the right; when the bow stands perpendicular the needles will have
regained the lowest position, and the bow proceeds to the extreme right,
touching the steel spring and spool, and thus tightening the gimp cord;
the thread of the first needle is thereby drawn over to the thread of the
second needle to form one combined thread, and the overcast stitch is
thus produced. The cut of the button hole to be sewn is disposed of

page_text: around a hook, and the latter forces the first needle to stitch into the
edge of the stuff, whereas the second needle stitches at the side of the
stuff. The above-described contrivance may be easily adapted to any
shuttle machine.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Isidor Nasch in the Great Seal Patent Office on the.
11th May 1870.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, ISIDOR
NASCH, of Berlin, in the Kingdom of Prussia, Manufacturer, send
greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing, date the Eleventh day of November, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-nine, in the thirty-
third
1 year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give
and grant unto me, the said Isidor Nasch, Her special licence that I,
the said Isidor Nasch, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such
others as I, the said Isidor Nasch, my executors, administrators, and
assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to
time and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should
and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United
Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle
of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN BUTTON-HOLE SEWING MACHINES,"
upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said Isidor Nasch, my_
executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or
their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and
ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same
was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal
Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the
date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Isidor Nasch, do hereby declare the
nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement, reference being had to the accompanying Drawing
forming part of this Specification, in which Figure 1 is a side elevation
of the said machine; Figure 2 is a front elevation of the same.. : J

page_text: Another
In this machine two needles a, b, and four threads are employed.
The needle a receives its thread from the loose spool A; this thread
passes through the eye g fixed in the plate h, then through the eye of
the spring i, and thence through the eye of the needle a.
thread unwinding from the doubly fixed spool B passes through the
eye, then through the eye of the spring i, and is therefrom
conducted through the needle b. The gimp thread is on the third
spool. The latter spool is likewise doubly fixed, and from it the
gimp passes through the eye of the steel spring m, thence through
the eye of the conducting rim n, then through the two holes of the
bow or curved piece 2*, passing out of the lowermost hole o freely; the
fourth thread is on the reel m' in the shuttle under the slide p. Inside
of the shuttle which travels through the loops of the two upper threads
there is a spring F with an eye for the purpose of directing the thread
automatically; this spring keeps the thread wound upon the spool to
the same tension throughout its motion; this is an essential feature of
my Invention, as by this fact the uniformity of the seam is effected.
By turning the driving axle q two conical wheels R and R' are set in
motion; an excentric plate is attached to the larger wheel R'; on
the said plate is a small draw bit z, which by the alternate motion in the
joint causes the bow n to move to the right and left around its
fulcrum pin 10%; above the pin w there is a steel spring attached to
the bow, which when the said bow stands to the extreme right (the
position indicated in the Drawing) will hold the spool fast so that it
cannot revolve, and the gimp is then stretched; there is also a hook y
inserted into the stitching plate. The other parts shown are the same
as those of other shuttle machines and require no further explanation.
This improved machine works as follows:-The Drawing shews the
needles at the lowest position and at the same time the outermost
position to the left of the bow n°. By turning the driving axle the
two needles a, b, are moved downward; the needle a is the finest or
smallest, and stitches through the stuff to be sewn, whereas the needle b
is coarser and merely stitches close by the stuff; the bow * moves
simultaneously to the left, and assumes a perpendicular position when
the needles are at the very lowest point, while the threads of the two
needles form a loop through which the shuttle passes. By the con-
tinued action of the driving axle a twofold movement is communicated
to the bow, namely, first a rectilinear and subsequently a circular

page_text: one; this motion is produced by the conducting rim n at the head of
the machine and a hinge 22 of the bow n, which hinge is at the proper
time pressed against the conducting rim 2 by a small spring n³ fixed at
the top of the bow; the bow n* then places the thread of the needle b
upon the thread of the needle a, meantime the stuff is moved on by the
feed motion and the needles are lifted; the driving axle continuing its
motion the two needles again descend and stitch over the gimp while
the bow * moves to the right; when the bow 2* stands perpendicular
the needles will have regained the lowest position, and still moving on
the bow passes to the extreme right, meantime touching the steel
spring and spool 1, and thus tightening the gimp cord, whereby the thread
of the needle a is drawn over to the thread of the needle b to form one
thread together, and the overcast stitch is thus produced. The cut of
the button hole to be sewn is disposed of round the hook y, and the
latter forces one of the needles a to stitch into the edge of the stuff to be
sewn, whereas the needle b stitches at the side of the cloth.
The chief advantage of the above-described device is that without any
exception it can be easily accommodated to any shuttle machine and at a
very trifling expense, thus adapting the machine for button-hole sewing
as well as for quilting.
Having thus fully described my said Invention I claim,―
First. The combination in the machine of two needles and four
threads, substantially in the manner and for the purpose described.
Second. The conducting rim with the bow n* and the spring F
with an eye for directing the thread automatically, substantially as
described.
Third. The hook y for the purpose described.
Fourth. The general arrangement of the parts of the machine,
substantially in the manner and for the purposes set forth.
In witness whercof, I, the said Isidor Nasch, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Ninth day of May, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and seventy.