IMPROVEMENTS IN FASTENINGS FOR WEARING APPAREL
Year: 1843

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JOHN
FREARSON, of Birmingham, in the County of Warwick, Machinist, send
greeting.
•
WHEREAS Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria; by Her
Letters Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date at West-
minster, the Second day of March, in the sixth year of Her reign, did; for
Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the said John
Frearson, Her especial licence, full power, sole privilege and authority,
that I, the said John Frearson, my exors, admors, and assigns, or such others
as I, the said John Frearson, my exors, admors, or assigns, should at any time
agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times during the
term of years therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise,
and vend, within England, Wales, and the Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed,
my Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN FASTENINGS FOR WEARING APPAREL ;" in
which said Letters Patent is contained a proviso, that I, the said John
Frearson, shall cause a particular description of the nature of my said Inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be inrolled in Her
said Majesty's High Court of Chancery within six calendar months next and
immediately after the date of the said in part recited Letters Patent, as in
and by the same, reference being thereunto had, will more fully and at large
appear.

page_text: NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, 1, the said
John Frearson, do hereby declare that the nature of my said Invention, and
the manner in which the same is to be performed, are fully described and
ascertained in and by the following statement thereof, reference being had to
the Drawings hereunto annexed, and to the figures and letters marked thereon
(that is to say):-
=
My Invention consists of, firstly, an improved hook and eye for fastening
wearing apparel.
Secondly, an improved fastening for wearing apparel, also applicable to
brooches and other ornaments.
Thirdly, an improved fastening for trowser straps, and an improved trowser
strap.
Fourthly, an improvement in clog fastenings.
And, lastly, an improvement in the common hook, which improvement is
to be used with the common or other eye.
My improved hook and eye are represented in Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, and
7 of the accompanying Drawing; Figure 1 being the plan of the hook, and
Figure 2 a side view of the same; Figure 3 is a plan of the eye, and Figure 4
a side view of the same; Figure 5 is a plan of the hook and eye, shewing their
relative positions when fastened together, and Figure 6 is a side view of the
saine; Figure 7 illustrates the mode of attaching the eye to the hook, as
herein-after described. The hook a is made of a piece of wire bent in the form
represented, and having its ends joined together at 6 by soldering, the part
inarked c is bent at right angles so as to form a hook, as seen clearly in
Figure 2; the eye (Figures 3 and 4) is also formed of a piece of wire bent as
shewn in the Drawing. In using this hook and eye, the hook (Figures 1 and 2)
is sewn or otherwise attached to one of the two parts of dress to be held
together or fastened, and the eye (Figures 3 and 4) is attached to the other
part, care being taken that the hooked part c of the hook (Figures 1 and 2) is
turned towards the dress, and that sideofthe eyemarked dalso turned towards
the dress. To fasten this hook and eye together, the eye must be inclined
to the hook at an angle of about forty-five degrees, as seen in Figure 7, and
when in that position must be made to advance in the direction of the arrow
until the end of the eye has passed the hooked part e ofthe hook; the eye may
then be brought in a line with the hook, and the hooked part c will enter the
eye, and while in this position they will be securely held together; the hook
and
eye thus fastened together are represented in Figures 5 and 6. In order
to unfasten this hook and eye, the eye must be inclined at an angle of about
forty-five degrees as seen in Figure 7, when it may be removed from the hook.

page_text: Figures 8, 9, 10, 11, and 12 represent a clasp, in which the principle of my
improved hook and eye is adopted. It consists of two pieces cut out of sheet
metal of the forms represented in Figures 8 and 9, 10 and 11; Figure 8
representing a plan, and Figure 9 an end view of one piece; Figure 10 a plan,
and Figure 11 an end view of the other piece. The external form.of these
pieces may,
however, be varied; the piece represented in Figures 8 and 9, I
will call the hook; and that represented in Figures 10 and 11, I will call the
eye. In order to attach the eye to the hook, the former must be inclined, as
herein-before explained with reference to the last described fastening, and then
introduced into the opening e, the eye must then be brought in a line with the
hook, when the hooked part fof the latter enters the opening g of the former,
and the two are fastened together. Their relative positions when thus held
together are seen in Figure 12.
Figures 13,14,and 15 represent my improved fastening for wearing apparel,
applicable also to brooches and other ornaments; Figure 13 representing the
side view of a brooch, in which my improved fastening is adopted in the act
of fastening some part of dress, and Figure 14 a front view of the same;
Figure 15 represents the side view of it fastened, a is the jewel or otherorna-
ment fixed to the frame b. This frame is jointed at c to a plate d; e is a pin
tapering to a point, and curved in a semicircular form. This pin is fixed to
the inside of the frame or box bin such a manner that the joint c is the centre
of the circle of which the pin eris a part; f is a hole in the plate d, through
which the pine passes; y is a spring fastening for securing the frame or box
to the plate d, when in the position shown in Figure 15; h is a pin tapered
to a point and fixed on the back of the plated. The action of this fastening.
is as follows:-In order to fix it on any part of the dress i, or fasten any
part of the dress therewith, the box or frame is raised from the plate </
into the position shewn in Figures 13 and 14, and while in that position
the point is introduced into that part of the dress to which the brooch
or ornament is to be attached, or which is to be fastened; the frame or
box b is then shut down on the plate d, as shewn in Figure 15, care being
taken to press the whole against the dress during the shutting down of the
box ; the box 6 is secured to the plate d by the spring fastening g. During
the motion of the frame or box b,the curved pin e describes acircular path, and
in doing so passes twice through the dress. In order to remove this fastening,
the thumb or finger nail should be pressed against the stud j, the frame or
box may then be raised into the position shewn in Figures 13 aud 14, and
the whole removed.
Figures 16, 17; and 18 represent a modification of the fastening last

page_text: described. This modification is applicable to those ornamental articles or
fastenings in which the jewel or other ornament is of a circular figure.
Figure 16 represents a front view of this fastening, the jewel or ornament
being removed, and Figures 17 and 18 represent in section the parts of which
it is composed. It consists of two circular metallic plates a and b, the
central portions of which are cut away, as seen in the Drawing. A groove or
depressionc, of a semicircular figure, is formed near the circumference of each
plate,and two slots d,, are cut opposite to each other in each of the circular
grooves c,c. The upper plate a carries the jewel or ornamente, andis attached
to the lower one b by the inner edge of the latter being turned over the inner
edge of the former; ff, are two pointed pins fixed at opposite ends of the
two slots d,d', in the upper plate a. When attaching the ornament in which
this fastening is adopted to any part of the dress, or fastening any part of the.
dress therewith, the whole is pressed against that part of the dress to which it
is to be attached, or by which it is to be fastened, and while being so pressed
the front part a, or that part containing the jewel or other ornament, is turned
in the direction indicated by the arrow, Figure 16, and when it has been
turned until it is arrested the whole is secured. During the pressing of the
fastening against the dress, those parts of the dress to which the slots d, d¹,
are presented enter theslots, and project in the groove c, as seen in the sketch,
Figure 19; by turning the plate a in the direction before indicated the
pins fenter those parts of the dress which pass through the slots d, d¹,
and thereby secure the brooch or ornament to the dress, or fasten the dress as
the case may be. In order to remove this fastening the plate a, carrying the
jewel or other ornament, should be turned in a direction opposite to that
indicated by the arrow, Figure 16.
Figures 20, 20 A, 21, 22, and 23 represent my improved fastening for
trowser straps; Figures 20, 21, and 22 representing the several parts of the
same, and Figure 23 representing them in connection with the trowser strap.
" is a piece of wire bent in the form represented; the ends a¹ of this wire
enter the small tube b (Figure 21), which tube is affixed to the trowser strap
by the piece c being rivetted thereto. Instead of making a, Figure 20, of wire,
I sometimes make it of metal plate; I sometimes also make it of the form
represented in Figure 20 A. d (Figure 22) is a bar of metal to be attached
to the bottom of the trowser; e is a stud fixed on the bar d; the neck or
cylindrical part of this stud is of such a size that it cannot be passed
between the branches of Figure 20 at that part indicated by the dotted line
without the exertion of pressure, while the space between the branches of
Figure 20 at that part marked f is such that the neck or cylindrical part

page_text: of the stud works freely therein. The action of this fastening is as follows:-
The stud e (Figure 22) is introduced into Figure 20 at that part marked g.
On bringing the neck or cylindrical part of the stud to that part of Figure 20
indicated by the dotted line, pressure must be exerted, as the branches of
Figure 20 are too near each other at that part to admit of the neck or
cylindrical part of the stud passing between them. By pressure, the branches
of Figure 20 separate, and the neck of the stud passes to the part
marked, the branches again closing by the elasticity of the material of
which they are made; the strap is thus secured to the trowser, and cannot
be detached by accident.
Instead of forming the bar and stud as herein-before described, and re-
presented in Figure 22, I sometimes form it as represented in section in
Figure 24, and in elevation in Figure 25. a is the bar of metal, having a hole
drilled in the middle of its length, into which hole the collet b is introduced,
and fastened by its edge being spread out, as shown in the Drawing. I also
cover the bar of metal a with cloth or other fabric c, as seen in Figure 25,
for the purpose of more conveniently attaching it to the trowser.
My improved trowser strap is represented in Figure 26. It consists of a
strap or band of leather or other flexible material a, at each end of which is
affixed the mechanism, herein-after described, for allowing it to elongate or
shorten itself as circumstances may require. This mechanism is fully exposed
to view at that end of the strap marked y. bis a bar of metal having a longi-
tudinal slot c; the upper end ofthis bar is turned over, so as to form a tube d
for the reception of my improved spring fastening, herein-before described, and
represented in Figure 20, or it may be formed so as to suit any other fastening.
The lower end of the bar b has the projection or shouldere; fis a flat helical
spring, one end of which bears against the shoulder e, and the other against the
pin or rivet g, which pin or rivet passes through the slot c in the bar b,and serves
to guide the bar in its motion, and also to li nit the same. This mechanism is.
secured to the strap a by the pin or rivet g being riveted thereto. The spring
and mechanism is concealed by a piece of leather h being sewn over it, as
seen in the mechanism at that end of the strap marked a. When the strap is
not in use, the mechanism for giving it elasticity assumes the position shewn at
that end of the strap marked a, in which the sliding bar is concealed from
sight by the elasticity of the spring forcing it inwards. When the strap is in
use, or attached to the trowsers, it elongates itself, as occasion requires, by the
compression of the springs and the drawing out of the sliding bars. The
mechanism already described and situate at part of the strap marked is
represented elongated to its greatest extent.
y

page_text: Instead of the means just described of giving elasticity to the strap, any other
elastic mechanism may be employed, as my Invention does not consist of the
means of giving elasticity to trowser straps, but in the application of elastic
mechanism to trowser straps formed of one continuous piece of leather or
other flexible material.
My improvement in clog fastenings is represented in Figure 28. a is a band
of leather passing round the heel; b, a strap, one end of which is attached to
the band a, on one side of the foot, and passing over the iustep, is fastened to
the band a on the other side of the foot. This fastening of the strap 6 to the
band is generally effected by a clasp c, which clasp is connected to the band a
by a small strap of leather, the clasp changing loosely from the strap ofleather.
My improvement consists in attaching the claspc directly to the band a, by a
rivet, as shown in the Drawing, Figure 28, where the clasp c is represented as
attached to the band, a by the rivet d.
My improvement in the common hook to be used with the common or other
eye, is represented, in Figures 29 and 30; Figure 29 representing a plan, and
Figure 30 a side view of a hook in which my improvement is adopted. The
ordinary hook and eye are made of wire, such,wire being of a cylindrical form.;
the flatness of the wire observed in the finished-hook and eye being produced
by a process in which. the wire is subjected to pressure during the process of
manufacture of the hook and eye. This process is called planishing, and is well
understood. My improvement consists in submitting the partially formed hooks
in the process of planishing to the action of dies, by which only parts of the
said hooks are flattened, the other parts being flattened on one side only, having
a semi-cylindrical form. Those parts of the hook marked a are planished or
flattened only on one side, the other side being left of a semi-cylindrical figure
as seen in the Drawing, Figure 30. A hook thus constructed possesses the
following advantages:-The hook cannot be introduced into the eye without a
slight pressure, for the parts of the hook marked are so close to each other
that the eye cannot pass between them without causing them to separate to a
greater distance, to which separation the elasticity of the hook opposes itself.
Immediately the eye has passed the parts of the hook marked x, these parts
close or resume the position shewn in the Drawing, and the hook cannot be
detached from the eye by accident as considerable force is required to force
the latter between the parts of the former marked a.
The improved fastenings herein-before described, and represented in the
accompanying Drawing, may all be constructed by machinery and processes so
well, understood that I deem a description of such machinery and processes
unnecessary. The fastening herein-before described, and represented, in

page_text: Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, and 7 of the accompanying Drawing, may either
be formed by bending wire by hand, or (which is preferable) by machinery.
The machinery suitable for making it exactly resembles in its parts the
machinery by which common hooks and eyes are made, the forms and sizes
of the dies in such machinery being varied so as to suit the form and size of
the various parts of the fastening. A workman used to the construction of
common hook and eye machines is competent to make the necessary altera-
tion in the dies of those machines necessary to the production ofmy improved
fastening. All the other parts of my Invention may be made by machinery
and processes well understood.
I claim as my Invention, firstly, the mode of constructing fastenings herein-
before described, and represented in Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, whether such
fastenings be constructed of wire, or of plate metal, as herein-before described
and represented in Figures 8, 9, 10, 11, and 12, or otherwise.
Secondly, the construction of a fastening for wearing apparel, also applicable
to broochesand other ornamental articles of dress, in which the pin securing the
same to the dress describes a circular path, whether such path be in a plane
parallel to that in which the contiguous part of the dress is situated, as in the
inodification herein-before described and represented in Figures 16, 17, and 18,
or in a plane at right angles to that in which the contiguous part of the dress
is situated, as herein-before described and represented in Figures 13,14, and 15
or in any intermediate plane.
1
Thirdly, the construction of a spring fastening for trowser straps or other
parts of wearing apparel, as herein-before described and represented in Figures
20, 20 A, 21, 22, and 23 of the accompanying Drawing.
Fourthly, the construction of a stud or button for a trowser strap fasten-
ing, by attaching a collet to a bar of metal, also the enclosing of a bar of
metal for a strap fastening in cloth or other fabric for more conveniently
attaching the same to the bottom of the trowser, as herein-before described,
and represented in Figures 24 and 25 of the accompanying Drawing.
Fifthly, the modification of the common hook to be used with the common
or other eye, herein-before described, and represented in Figures 29 and 30, in
which the hook is so planished as to leave a projection ou one or both of those
parts of the hook which are parallel to each other, which projection or pro-
jections offers or offer a resistance to the passage of the hook into the eye and
to its withdrawal from the same.
Sixthly, the application to trowser straps made of one continuous piece of
leather, or other flexible material, of mechanism for giving elasticity to the
como

page_text: Seventhly, the attaching of clog fastenings to clogs by rivetting, as herein-
before described, and represented in Figure 28 of the accompanying Drawing
In witness whereof, I, the said John Frearson, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Twenty-eighth day of August, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and forty-three.
AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the Twenty-eighth day of August,
in the year of our Lord 1843, the aforesaid John Frearson came before our
said Lady the Queen in Her Chancery, and acknowledged the Specification
-aforesaid, and all and every thing therein contained and specified, in form above
written. And also the Specification aforesaid was stamped according to the
tenor of the Statute made for that purpose.
Enrolled the Thirtieth day of August, in the year of our Lord One