Improved Means for Imparting a Silk-like Appearance to Woven Textile Fabrics.
Year: 1899

page_text: Date of Application, 6th Mar., 1899
Complete Specification Left, 15th Apr., 1899-Accepted, 2nd June, 1899
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improved Means for Imparting a Silk-like Appearance to Woven
Textile Fabrics.
I, RUDOLF ZIERSCHI, Merchant, of Barmen, in the Kingdom of Prussia, do hereby
declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:
For imparting a gloss of a somewhat pronounced character to animal and veget-
able fibre, pressure rollers (calenders or presses) have hitherto been employed as is
generally known; the material made of such fibre being sent through machines
of that class under a predetermined pressure. Such treatment, however, enabled
merely a smooth glossy surface to be obtained, and one that reflected the rays of
light in a uniform manner.
It is well-known, on the other hand, that the peculiar gloss of silk results
from the fact that the several light reflecting surfaces lie in different planes, so
that even where the angle of vision is varied, a lustre pleasing to the eye, is
produced by reflection; an effect which naturally is out of the question in regard
to other materials, which require a certain angle of vision.
Attempts to secure this silky lustre or gloss have been made before now by
engraving or scoring a plate or roller with grooves parallel to the weft of the fabric
or to the roller axis. The effect obtained by such means is inadequate, however;
for although surfaces lying in different planes are thereby produced, yet such sur-
faces do not extend in different directions, so that the lustre peculiar to silk
is not obsérvable under every visual angle.
To supply this deficiency I subject the material to be treated to the action of
a special roller, made to operate upon it under a sufficiently high pressure. The
roller is provided with very fine parallel lines, which-and this is the main
feature of the invention-are made to form with the weft a certain angle, usually
from 15° to 30°. In order that the surfaces which have been produced by the
lines thus engraved in the roller, and which extend in different planes and in
various directions, may be permanent, the material is treated with steam at a
high temperature.
Owing to the fact, that the surfaces lie in different planes, and at the same
time extend in different directions; the material, when viewed under widely varying
visual angles, will present in the angle of reflection, surfaces whose number may
be greater at one moment and less at the next; the material accordingly appearing
lustrous at one time, and dull at another. And it is by reason of this very circum-
stance that material treated by this method will become exactly like silk in
appearance.
The direction of the threads varies considerably from one fabric to another, a
circumstance which has to be taken into account, where it is desired to obtain the
full effect of the above treatment. Accordingly, care should be taken in each case
to bring the lines or grooves scored in the roller, under an angle suited to the
nature of the material to be dealt with.
Dated this 6th day of March 1899.
FAIRFAX & WETTER,
Agents for the Applicant.

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improved Means for Imparting a Silk-like Appearance to Woven
Textile Fabrics..
I, RUDOLF ZIERSCH, Merchant, of Alleestrasse, Barmen, in the Kingdom of
Prussia, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and. by
the following statement:-
For imparting a gloss of a somewhat pronounced character to animal and veget-
able fibres, pressure rollers (calenders) or presses have hitherto been employed, as is
generally known; the material made of such fibres being sent through machines
of that class under a predetermined pressure. Such treatment, however, enabled
merely a smooth glossy surface to be obtained, and one that reflected the rays of
light in a uniform manner.
It is well known, on the other hand, that the peculiar gloss of silk results
from the fact, that the several light reflecting surfaces lie in different planes, so,
that even when the angle of vision is varied, a lustre pleasing to the eye is
produced by reflection; an effect which naturally is out of the question in regard
to other materials, which require a certain angle of vision.
Attempts to secure this silky lustre or gloss have been made before now by
pressing woven fabrics of cotton or other textile material with a plate or roller
provided with grooves parallel to the weft of the fabric or to the roller axis, as
described, for instance, in Kirkham's Specification No. 4593 of 1885. The effect
obtained by this method of silk-finishing is inadequate, however; for although
surfaces lying in different planes are thereby produced, yet such surfaces do not
extend in directions different from that of the warp and weft, so that the lustre
peculiar to silk is not observable under every visual angle.
To supply this deficiency I subject the material to be treated to the action of a
special roller or plate made to operate upon it under a sufficiently high pressure.
The roller or plate is provided with very fine parallel lines, which, and this is the
main feature of the invention, are made to form with the weft an acute angle,
usually from 15° to 30°. In order, that the surfaces which have been produced
by the lines thus engraved in the roller, may be permanent, the roller is heated
with steam, gas or other suitable means before and during the process. I do not,
however, claim the heating of the roller as part of my invention.
Owing to the fact, that the surfaces lie in different planes, extending across the
warp and weft, the material, when viewed under widely varying visual angles, will
present in the angle of reflection, surfaces whose number may be greater at one
moment and less at the next; the material accordingly appearing lustrous at one
time, and dull at another. And it is by reason of this circumstance, that cotton
or other woven fabric treated by this method will become exactly like silk in
appearance.
The direction of the threads varies considerably from one fabric to another, a
circumstance which has to be taken into account, where it is desired to obtain the
full effect of the above treatment. Accordingly, care should be taken in each case,
to place the lines or grooves scored in the roller or plate, at an angle suited to the
nature of the material to be dealt with. The grooves form an acute angle with the
axis of the roller or with the edges of the plate.
my
said
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is:-
1. The process for silk-finishing cotton and other woven fabrics, which consists

page_text: in pressing them by means of rollers or plates provided with numerous fine grooves
running across the warp and weft, substantially as described.
2. A silk-finishing roller or plate provided with numerous fine grooves forming an
acute angle with the axis of the roller or with the edge of the plate, substantially
as described.
Datad this 15th day of A 1000
FAIRFAX & WETTER,
Agents, 37 and 39, Essex Street, Strand, London.