AN IMPROVED METHOD OF MANUFACTURING LADIES' STAYS
Year: 1864

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Charles Field, of No. 12, Talbot Terrace, Clarendon
Road, Notting Hill, in the County of Middlesex, Staymaker, for the
Invention of "AN IMPROVED METHOD OF MANUFACTURING LADIES' STAYS."
Sealed the 1st August 1864, and dated the 18th February 1864.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Charles Field at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 18th
February 1864.
I, CHARLES FIELD, of No. 12, Talbot Terrace, Clarendon Road, Notting
Hill, in the County of Middlesex, Staymaker, do hereby declare the nature of
the said Invention for "AN IMPROVED METHOD OF MANUFACTURING LADIES'
STAYS." to be as follows:-
The Invention consists, first, of a mechanical combination applied to the
backs of ladies' stays, corsets, and supporting belts, whereby those articles
may be expanded or closed at pleasure.
Secondly, to the petticoat fastening hook, whereby ladies' petticoats can be
readily unfastened.
Thirdly, to mechanical fastenings, which can be applied to ladies' stays,
corsets, and supporting belts.
Fourthly, to the manufacture of every description of mechanical fastenings
and busks for front, sides, and back of ladies' stays, corsets, and supporting
belts of a hard rolled spring brass.
And, fifthly, to the covering of the front, sides, and, back of steel backs, and
every description of mechanical fastenings for ladies' stays, corsets, and
Price 8d.1

page_text: supporting belts with tubular india-rubber, whereby they are rendered free
from rust.
And in order that the Invention may be fully understood and carried into
effect, I will proceed to describe the Drawings hereunto annexed, in the
various Figures of which the same letters of reference are used to indicate the
same parts wherever they occur.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.
Drawing No. 1, Fig. 1, A represents a thin plate of hard rolled brass or
steel with a piece of solid brass rivetted on each end, as represented by
letter B. In the brass or steel plate A are a number of studs, with a shoulder
to each of them rivetted thereto, and on each stud is a brass wheel, as shewn
by letter C. P represents a thin strip of steel passing over all the wheels,
and rivetted at each end to the piece of brass marked B, and also a rivet near
each wheel, as shown by the letter D. The strip of steel, marked P, is bent
down between every wheel on to plate A to allow it to contract or expand,
rendering it more pliable when in use. E represents the winding bar, it is
made of sheet brass. At the top end is an eye, marked Z, for the string of
catgut to pass through, and at respective distances are a number of holes with
a piece partly punched out and bent, so as to form a kind of hook, as shewn
by letter F. G, H, represents four studs, their use being to keep the winding
bar E in the centre while being wound up or let down. G represents two
studs in the centre, with a small flat nut to fit, as shewn by letters S, S, in
Drawing No. 2, Fig. 3, the other two being screwed into the brass at each
end, marked B, with two flat-headed screws, their use being hereafter described.
i represents an axle with a square hole through it, one end working in a round
hole in plate A, the other end working in a similar hole in the brass cap
marked O (Fig. 2), which is rivetted to the back of plate A. In the space
between the brass cap and the plate A there is a cog wheel fastened to the
axle, as shewn by letter L (Fig. 2), and under the cog wheel is a check
spring marked M (Fig. 2), with a catch in it, and on the end of the check
spring there is a press rod marked N (Fig. 2), their use being hereafter
described. On the end of the axle, marked i, (Fig. 1), there is a chain
marked Y, with one end fastened to the axle, and the other end secured to
the eye in the winding bar marked E. T and T, X, represent the two
halves of a pair of stays. P, X, represents a string of catgut, one end being
sewn to the top of the half stay, marked T, as shewn by letters I, X, from
thence it passes over the wheel marked No. 1, then brought down round
wheel No. 2, then passed through the eye marked Z in the winding bar E,

page_text: then brought round the wheel No. 13, thence passed up over wheel No. 12 to
the T, X, half of the stay, where it is sewn, as shewn by letters J, X, then
passed under wheel No. 14, and thence again through the eye marked Z, then
brought under the wheel No. 3 to the T half of the stay, and sewn, as shewn
by letters K, X, then under the wheel No 4. then passed over hook marked
F 23, then brought under wheel No. 15 to the T, X, half of the stay, and
sewn, as shewn by letters L, X, then passed under wheel No. 16, thence over
hook F 24, then brought under wheel No. 5 to the T half of the stay, and
sewn, as shewn by letters M, X, then passed under wheel No. 6, thence over
hook F 25, then brought under wheel No. 17 to the T, X, half of the stay,
and sewn, as shewn by letters N, X, then passed under wheel No. 18, thence
over hook F 26, then brought under wheel No. 7 to the T half of the stay,
and sewn, as shewn by letters O, X, then passed under wheel No. 8, thence
over hook F 27, then under wheel No. 19 to the T, X, half of the stay, and
sewn in, as shewn by letters P, X, then passed under wheel No. 20, thence
over hook F 28, then under wheel No. 9 to the T half of the stay, and sewn,
as shewn by letters Q, X, then passed under wheel No. 10, then over hook
F29, thence under wheel No. 21 to the T, X, half of the stay, and sewn, as
shewn by letters R, X, then passed under wheel No. 22, then over hook F 30,
thence under wheel No. 11 to the T half of the stay, and sewn, as shewn by
letters S, X. It will be seen by reference to the Drawing that the string of
catgut is in one piece, and when regulated the hooks marked F in the winding
bar E are bent down, so as to hold the string of catgut secure, so as to allow
it to play out equally over the wheels.
Drawing No. 2.-Fig. 3 represents a plate of hard rolled brass or steel
marked W, X, of the same size, and made to fit on and completely cover the
whole of the movement of plate A, Fig. 1 (Drawing No. 1); in plate W, X,
are two round holes in the centre, as shewn by letters S, S, also two long
holes at each end, as shewn by letters V, V; this plate when placed over
plate A, Drawing No. 1, Fig. 1, has the two screw studs marked G (Fig. 1),
passed through the two holes marked S, S, Fig. 3, and are screwed down
tightly by a flat nut, as shewn in Fig. 3, Drawing No. 2, and screwed down
to the pieces of brass marked B, Fig. 1, by flat-headed screws, as shewn in
Fig. 3 by the letters V, V; these are left loose, so that the studs may work
up and down the long holes, so that the whole may be pliant to the motion of
the body when in use.
In describing the movement, action, and use of the expanding mechanical
wheel back, the Drawing No. 1, Fig. 1, represents the mechanical back fully
expanded; if it was required to draw the two halves of the stay closer

page_text: together, it is done by means of a small square key put into the square hole
marked i, and by turning the axle the chain marked Y (having the one end
fastened to the axle, and the other to the eye marked Z at the top of the
winding bar E,) is wound up, and draws the winding bar E with it, and
the string of catgut being fastened to the hooks F will be drawn in over the
wheels, and the two halves of the stay will naturally follow until they come
close up to the mechanical back. The manner in which the two halves of the
stay are allowed to expand is by placing the finger on the press rod N, Fig. 2,
Drawing No. 1, and by pressing down the check spring, marked M, the cog
wheel L is liberated from the catch, and is free to revolve, and by keeping up
the pressure on the press rod N the tention on the string of catgut being to
draw out (the stay being in use), the winding bar E (Fig. 1) will descend
and unroll the chain Y off the axle, and will allow the stay to expand until the
winding bar E has descended, until it resumes its position against the piece of
brass marked B. But if the finger be taken off the press rod N (Fig. 2),
the check spring M will ascend, and cause the catch to arrest the revolution
of the cog wheel, and keep the stay at that expansion until it is required to be
altered.
Drawing No. 3.--Figs. 4 and 5 represent respectively the front and side
views of the petticoat fastening hook. A represents a solid piece of cast brass
with a number of holes perforated through it, as shewn by letters B. On the
top part of the hook is a groove passing from that end to the bottom, its use
being hereafter described. D represents a steel spring grooved the same size
as that above described; at one end of the groove is a hole, by which means
the spring is screwed down and made fast to the hook, as shewn by the
letter F; at the other end of this groove is a stud rivetted into the spring, as
shewn by letter G. In the groove described as being in the top part of the
hook A is a sliding clasp, as shewn by letter H. J represents a hook for a
separate use, it being to keep down petticoats which are made to fasten
behind.
In describing the use of the petticoat fastening hook, and the manner of
fastening and unfastening petticoats, reference being had to the Drawing, and
to the letters marked thereon will more fully appear. The hook is sewn on
to the busk by means of a thread passed through the holes marked B (Fig. 4),
and through the stay material from one hole to the other until stitched on firmly.
When requiring to fasten the petticoats, take the sliding clasp up the groove
towards the screw marked F, the spring then ascends, and the stud marked G
rises with it, and leaves the space clear (marked O, Fig. 5); then by taking
the strings which are made of catgut, and knotted and covered with cotton, a

page_text: piece (about six inches in length) being sewn in at each end of the petticoat
band, and when drawn as tight as required, by passing the catgut between
the knots up the space O, will be held fast, and when all the petticoats have
been made fast in like manner, then push down the sliding clasp H, and the
stud marked G will descend and enclose the whole of the strings, and keep
them perfectly secure. When requiring to unfasten the petticoats, proceed as
follows: By pushing the sliding clasp up the groove towards letter F, the
end of the spring with the stud marked G ascend, and then with the aid of
the thumbs the whole of the strings can be pushed simultaneously from under
the hook, and all the petticoats will become unfastened.
Drawing No. 3.-Figs. 6, 7, 8, 9, and 10, represent the different parts of
the mechanical fastenings for ladies' stays, corsets, and supporting belts.
Fig. 6 represents a very narrow busk. It is made of a plate of hard rolled
brass or steel; it has four brass studs rivetted to it, as shewn by letters N,
having a collar round the top next the busk, also a groove or notch cut into
it, as shewn by the letters O in the side view of this busk (Fig. 7). This
busk, and the busk represented at Fig. 8, are intended to answer the same
purpose, with this difference, that when the studs of busk, Fig. 8, are locked
into the busk Fig. 10 the two busks remain side by side, whereas busk Fig. 7
when it has its studs locked into busk Fig. 10 it remains on the top of that
busk. Fig. 8 represents a narrow busk for one half of the stay, it is made of
a plate of hard rolled brass or steel the same width and thickness as busk
Fig. 10. On this busk (Fig. 8) are four pieces of brass marked L, with the
flat part rivetted with two rivets in each piece of brass, on the other end
marked V are four round studs with a groove or notch cut in each of them, as
shewn by letter M (Fig. 9), each stud being made to fit in the long hole
marked B in Fig. 10. Fig. 10 represents a narrow busk for the other half of
the stay, it is made of a plate of hard rolled brass or steel, varying in thick-
ness and width. It has four long holes square at one end and round at the
other, over each hole is a brass cap, as shewn by letters C, rivetted and
soldered to the busk A. On the top part of the hole, marked B, is a flange or
collar to put the stay material under. F represents a lever latch, which works
on a stud rivetted into busk A, its use being hereafter described. E represents
the space between the brass cap and the busk A. H represents a spring made
of a thin strip of steel, with one end rivetted into the centre part of the lever
latch, as shewn by letter X, with the other end passing under the brass cap C,
and through a notch in its rim, as shewn by letter S, its use being more
particularly described hereafter. G represents a sliding rod, which passes
under all four of the brass caps marked C, with a space cut away to allow it

page_text: to work freely up and down. On the sliding rod G are four catches, as shewn
by letters T, their use being hereafter described. On the lower end of the
sliding rod G it is raised, so as to form an eye, as shewn by letter K;
i represents a narrow brass cap with a collar round the top for the stay
material to be put under, and a clear passage through it for the sliding rod G
to work up and down. J represents a lever spring with one end rivetted on
the underneath side of busk, Fig. 10, and the other end bent up square to work
in the square end of the hole in busk Fig. 10.
In describing the mode of fastening and unfastening the movement action,
and use of the different parts of the mechanical fastenings, reference being
had to the Drawing (No. 3), and to the figures and letters marked thereon
will more fully appear. The Drawings, Figs. 6, 7, 8, and 10, represent the
two busks unfastened, the mode of fastening is as follows:--By taking busk,
Fig. 8, and placing the studs marked M (Fig. 9) into the hole marked B in
Fig. 10, and by pressing down the spring marked J, the part of the spring J
which is bent up descends, and as soon as the stud is in as far as it will go,
the spring J is clear of the lever latch marked F, and the spring marked H
forces the lever latch into the notch in the stud marked M in busk Fig. 8,
and when the four studs are locked in the same manner, the two busks are
firmly fixed together, at the same time the studs will work freely up and down
the long holes, and be pliant to suit the action of the body.
In describing the manner of unfastening the mechanical fastenings, there
is a piece of string or cord put through the eye marked K in the sliding rod
(Fig. 10), so as to form a loop, and by putting the finger through the loop,
and pulling the sliding rod down, the four catches marked T bring down cach
lever latch marked F with it, and as soon as the lever latch is clear out of the
notch in the studs (marked M) the four springs marked J will ascend, and
throw the four studs and busk Fig. 8 clean out of the holes in busk Fig. 10.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Charles Field in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 18th
August 1864.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, CHARLES
FIELD, of No. 12, Talbot Terrace, Clarendon Road, Notting Hill, in the
County of Middlesex, Staymaker, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Eighteenth day of February, in the year of our

page_text: Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-four, in the twenty-seventh year
of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant
unto me, the said Charles Field, Her special licence that I, the said Charles
Field, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the
said Charles Field, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any
time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times there-
after during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make,
use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and
Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "AN IN-
PROVED METHOD OF MANUFACTURING LADIES' STAYS," upon the condition (amongst
others) that I, the said Charles Field, my executors or administrators, by an
instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals,
should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention,
and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to
be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and
immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Charles Field, do hereby declare the
nature of said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement thereof, that is to say:-
The Invention of an improved method of manufacturing ladies' stays relates
to a mechanical combination applied to the backs of such stays, sometimes also
called corsets, and supporting belts, whereby those articles may be expanded or
closed at pleasure.
Also to that part of ladies' stays called the petticoat fastening hook by
which ladies' petticoats are secured thereto.
And also to means of fastening ladies' stays sometimes also called corsets and
supporting belts.
And in order that the Invention may be fully understood and carried into
effect, I will proceed to describe the Drawings hereunto annexed, in the
various Figures of which the same letters of reference are used to indicate the
same parts wherever they occur.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.
Figure 1, A represents a thin plate of hard rolled brass or steel with a
piece of solid brass rivetted on each end as represented by letter B. In the
brass or steel plate A are a number of studs with a shoulder to each of them
rivetted thereto, and on each stud is a brass wheel as shown by letter C; P
represents a thin strip of steel passing over all the wheels and rivetted at each

page_text: end to the piece of brass marked B, and also a rivet near each wheel as shewn
by the letter D. The strip of steel marked P, is bent down between every
wheel on to plate A to allow it to contract or expand, rendering it more
pliable when in use; E represents the winding bar, it is made of sheet brass,
at the top end is an eye, marked Z, for the string of catgut to pass through,
and at respective distances are a number of holes with a piece partly punched
out and bent so as to form a kind of hook as shewn by letter F; G, H,
represent four studs, their use being to keep the winding bar E in the centre
while being wound up or let down; G represents four studs, the two centre
ones with a small flat nut to fit, as shown by letter S, S, in Figure 3, the
other two being screwed into the brass at each end, marked B, with two flat
headed screws, their use being hereafter described; i represents an axle with
a square hole through it, one end working in a similar hole in the brass cap
marked O (Fig. 2) which is rivetted to the back of plate A, in the space
between the brass cap and the plate A, there is a ratchet wheel fastened to the
axle as shewn by letter L (Fig. 2) and under the ratchet wheel is a check
spring marked M (Fig. 2) with a catch to it, and on the end of the check
spring there is a press rod marked N (Fig. 2), their use being hereafter
described. On the end of the axle, marked i, (Fig. 1), there is a chain
marked Y, with one end fastened to the axle, and the other end secured to
the eye in the winding bar marked E. T and T, X, represent the two
halves of a pair of stays. P, X, represents a string of catgut, one end being
sewn to the top of the half stay, marked T, as shewn by letters I, X, from
thence it passes over the wheel marked 1, then brought down round wheel 2,
then passed through the eye marked Z in the winding bar E, then brought round
the wheel 13, thence passed up over wheel 12 to the T, X, half of the stay
where it is sewn as shewn by letters J, X, then passed under wheel 14, and
thence again through the eye marked Z, then brought under the wheel 3 to
the T half of the stay, and sewn as shewn by letters K, X, then under the
wheel 4, then passed over hook marked F23, then brought under the wheel
15 to the T, X, half of the stay, and sewn as shewn by letters L, X, then
passed under wheel 16, thence over hook F24, then brought under wheel 5
to the T half of the stay and sewn as shewn by letters M, X, then passed
under wheel 6, thence over hook F25, then brought under wheel 17 to the
T, X, half of the stay and sewn as shewn by letters N, X, then passed under
wheel 18, thence over hook F26, then brought under wheel 7 to the T half of
the stay, and sewn as shewn by the letters O, X, then passed under wheel 8,
thence over hook F27, then under wheel 19 to the T, X, half of the stay and
sewn in as shewn by letters P, X, then passed under wheel 20, thence

page_text: over hook F28, then under wheel 9 to the T half of the stay, and sewn as
shewn by letters Q, X, then passed under wheel 10, then over hook F29,
thence under wheel 21 to the T, X, half of the stay, and sewn as shewn by
letters R, X, then passed under wheel 22, then over hook F30, thence under
wheel 11 to the T half of the stay, and sewn as shewn by letters S, X. It
will be seen by reference to the Drawing that the string of catgut is in one
piece, and when regulated the hooks marked F in the winding bar E are bent
down so as to hold the string of catgut secure so as to allow it to play out
equally over the wheels.
Figure 2 represents part of the back of plate A. attached to which is a
mechanical contrivance which may be substituted for that represented at
Figure 2. A, C, represents a groove for the stud marked A, D, to work up
and down in; A, E, represents a rack made of steel with bevilled notches cut
on one side, the top end being bent round to form an eye as represented by
letters A, F, and the other end being tapered so as to form and act as a spring
as at A, G. A, H, represents a stud or rivet which acts as a hinge, at the
same time securing the rack to the plate A. The stud marked A, I, is
intended for the spring A, G, to work on. A, J, represents a staple bent
down at each end and rivetted into plate A for the rack to work under, and
to keep it in position.
Figure 3 represents a plate of hard rolled brass or steel marked W, X, of
the same size and made to fit on and completely cover the whole of the move-
ment of plate A, Figure 1. On plate W, X, are two round holes in the centre
as shewn by letters S, S, also two long holes at each end as shewn by letters
V, V; this plate when placed over plate A (Figure 1) has the two screw studs
marked G (Figure 1) passed through the two holes marked S, S, (Figure 3)
and are screwed down tightly by a flat nut as shewn in Figure 3, and screwed
down to the pieces of brass marked B (Figure 1) by flat headed screws as
shewn in Figure 3 by the letters V, V, these are left loose so that the studs
may work up and down the long holes so that the whole may be pliant to the
motion of the body when in use.
In describing the movement, action, and use of the expanding mechanical
wheel back, the Drawing, Figure 1, represents the mechanical back fully ex-
panded. If it were necessary to draw the two halves of the stay closer together,
it is done by means of a small square key fitting into the square hole marked i,
and by turning the axle the chain marked Y (having the one end fastened
to the axle and the other to the eye marked Z at the top of the winding
bar E) is wound up, and draws the winding bar E with it, and the string of
catgut being fastened to the hooks F will be drawn in over the wheels, and

page_text: the two halves of the stay will naturally follow until they come close up to the
mechanical back. The manner in which the two halves of the stay are
allowed to expand is simply by placing the finger on the press rod N
(Figure 2), and by pressing down the check spring, marked M, the ratchet
wheel L is liberated from the catch, and is free to revolve, and by keeping up
the pressure on the press rod N, the tension on the string of catgut being
to draw out (the stay being in use) the winding bar E (Figure 1), will
descend and unroll the chain Y off the axle, and will allow the stay to expand
until the winding bar E has descended until it resumes its position against
the piece of brass marked B; but if the finger be taken off the press rod N,
(Figure 2) or the pressure discontinued the check spring M will ascend, and
cause the catch to arrest the revolution of the ratchet wheel, and keep the
stay at that expansion until it is required to be altered.
In describing the movement or action of the mechanical contrivance, which
can be used in substitution of Figure 2, and the mechanism for raising
or lowering the winding bar E already described, Figure 2* represents such
contrivance in the position it would be in when the stay is fully expanded.
When it is required to contract the stay it is done by drawing the silk cord
(shewn in red in Figure 1) upwards, the winding bar E ascends with it
drawing the catgut over the wheels C, and the two halves of the stay con-
tract, at the same time the stud marked A, D, slides up the groove A, C,
and forces back the rack A, E; but so soon as the silk cord is let go, the
spring A, G, sets the stud A, D, fast in the notches of the rack A, E.
When the two halves of the stay are drawn up close to the back, and it is
required to expand them, it is effected by drawing the cord (which has
one end fastened to the eye A, F), thereby pulling the rack A, E, back, and
releasing the stud A, D, which descends the groove marked A, C, until the
stay is fully expanded. Or should it be desired only partially to expand the
stay it is only necessary to let go the cord represented at Figure 2ª, and the
spring A, G, sets the stud fast in the notches of the rack, securing the stay at
any expansion required.
Figures 4 and 5 represent respectively the front and side views of the petti-
coat fastening hook.
A represents a solid piece of cast brass with a number of holes perforating
it as shewn by letters B. On the top part of the hook is a groove passing
from that end to the bottom, its use being hereafter described; D represents
a steel spring, grooved the same size as that above described. At one end
of the groove is a hole, by which means the spring is screwed down and
made fast to the hook as shewn by the letter F. At the other end of this

page_text: groove is a stud rivetted into the spring as shewn by letter G. In the
groove described as being in the top part of the hook A, is a sliding clasp as
shewn by letter H; J represents a hook for a separate use it being to keep
down petticoats, which are made to fasten behind.
Figure 5º, represents a similar hook as shown at Figures 4 and 5, but
with the spring A, K, on a somewhat different principle, it being tapered
towards the lower end, and with a groove cut in it from A, L, to the flat headed
screw A, P, and in which groove the screw A, P, works. A, M, represents
a hole for the tapered end of the spring A, K, to work through. A, N,
represent two studs to rivet the hook into the busk. A, O, represents a stud,
its use being hereafter described.
In describing the use of the petticoat fastening hook, and the manner of
fastening and unfastening petticoats, reference being had to the Drawing,
and to the letters marked thereon will more fully appear. The hook is sewn
on to the busk, by means of a thread passed through the holes marked B,
(Figure 4), and through the stay material from one hole to the other until
stitched on firmly. When requiring to fasten the petticoats, take the sliding
clasp up the groove towards the screw marked F, the spring then ascends,
and the stud marked G rises with it, and leaves the space clear (marked O,
Figure 5), then by taking the strings, which are made of catgut, and
knotted and covered with cotton, a piece (about six inches in length) being
sewn in at each end of the petticoat band, and when drawn as tight as
required, by passing the catgut between the knots up the space O, will be
held fast, and when all the petticoats have been made fast in like manner then
push down the sliding clasp H, and the stud marked G will descend and
enclose the whole of the strings and keep them perfectly secure. When
requiring to unfasten the petticoats proceed as follows:-By pushing the
sliding clasp up the groove towards letter F the end of the spring with the
stud marked G ascends, and then with the aid of the thumbs the whole of
the strings can be pushed simultaneously from under the hook, and all the
petticoats will become unfastened.
In describing the utility of this improvement it will be seen by reference to
the Drawing (Figure 5) that the petticoats are fastened in the same manner,
as described and shewn at Figure 4, but when all the petticoats are
fastened, and it is required to thoroughly secure them, proceed by placing
the finger on the stud A, O. The tapered end of the spring A, K, can be
pressed down through the hole A, M, and the petticoats become securely
fastened. When requiring to unfasten the petticoats the spring must be
pushed back by the thumb and finger, and the petticoats become unfastened.

page_text: Figures 6, 7, 8, 9, and 10 represent the different parts of the mechanical
fastenings for ladies' stays, sometimes also called corsets, and supporting belts.
Figure 6 represents a very narrow busk, it is made of a plate of hard rolled
brass or steel, it has four brass studs rivetted to it as shewn by letters N, having
a collar round the top next the busk, also a groove or notch cut into it as
shewn by the letters O in the side view of this busk (Figure 7). This busk, and
the busk represented at Figure 8, are intended to answer the same purpose,
with this difference, that when the studs of busk, Figure 8, are locked into
the busk, Figure 10, the two busks remain side by side, whereas busk Figure 7
when it has its studs locked into busk Figure 10, it remains on the top of that
busk. Figure 8 represents a narrow busk for one half of the stay, it is made
of a plate of hard rolled brass or steel the same width and thickness as busk
Figure 10. On this busk (Figure 8) are four pieces of brass marked L, with
the flat part rivetted with two rivets in each piece of brass. On the other
end, marked V, are four round studs with a groove or notch cut in each of
them as shewn by letter M (Figure 9) each stud being made to fit in the
long hole marked B in Figure 10. Figure 10 represents a narrow busk for
the other half of the stay, it is made of a plate of hard rolled brass or steel
varying in thickness and width. It has four long holes square at one end and
round at the other. Over each hole is a brass cap, as shewn by letters C
rivetted and soldered to the busk A, as shewn by letter B, on the top part of
the hole, marked B, is a flange or collar to put the stay material under. F
represents a lever latch which works on a stud rivetted into busk A, its use
being hereafter described. E represents the space between the brass cap and
the busk A. H represents a spring made of a thin strip of steel, with one end
rivetted into the centre part of the lever latch as shewn by letter X, with the
other end passing under the brass cap C, and through a notch in its rim as
shewn by letter S, its use being more particularly described hereafter. G
represents a sliding rod which passes under all four of the brass caps, marked
C, with a space cut away to allow it to work freely up and down. On the
sliding rod G are four catches as shewn by letters T, their use being hereafter
described. On the lower end of the sliding rod G it is raised so as to form an
eye as shewn by letter K; i represents a narrow brass cap with a coller round
the top for the stay material to be put under, and a clear passage through it
for the sliding rod G to work up and down. J represents a lever spring with
one end rivetted on the underneath side of busk, Figure 10, and the other end
bent up square to work in the square end of the hole in busk Figure 10.
In describing the mode of fastening and unfastening the movement, action,
and use of the different parts of the mechanical fastenings, reference being

page_text: had to the Drawings and to the figures and letters marked thereon will more
fully appear. The Drawings, Figures 7, 8, and 10, represent the two busks
unfastened. The mode of fastening is as follows:-By taking busk, Figure 8,
and placing each of the studs marked M (Figure 9) into a hole marked B
in Figure 10, and by pressing down the spring, marked J, the part of the
spring J which is bent up descends, and as soon as the stud is in as far as it
will go the spring J is clear of the lever latch, marked F, and the spring,
marked H, forces the lever latch into the notch in the stud, marked M, in
busk Figure 8, and when the four studs are locked in the same manner the
two busks are firmly fixed together at the same time the studs will work
freely up and down the long holes, and be pliant to suit the action of the
body.
In describing the manner of unfastening the mechanical fastenings, there
is a piece of string or cord put through the eye, marked K, in the sliding rod
(Figure 10) so as to form a loop, and by putting the finger through the loop,
and pulling the sliding rod down, the four catches, marked T, bring down cach
lever latch, marked F, with it, and as soon as the lever latch is clear out of the
notch in the studs (marked M) the four springs, marked J, will ascend and
throw the four studs of the busk, Figure 8, clean out of the holes in busk
Figure 10. I would here state that I prefer to form the various mechanical
fastenings and the busks of ladies' stays of hard rolled spring brass.
when such mechanical parts and the busks are formed of steel I prefer to
cover them with vulcanized tubular india-rubber which is for this purpose
formed thin, and when drawn over the parts is secured at the ends by the
application of adhesive matter, or by sewing, by which means those parts are
protected from moisture and rendered free from rust.
And
Having thus described my improved method of manufacturing ladies' stays,
and means which I adopt in carrying the same into effect, I would have
it understood that what I claim is, the adaptation or combination of parts
applicable in the manufacture of ladies' stays, substantially as described in
respect of Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, and 10.
In witness whereof, I, the said Charles Field, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Eighteenth day of August, in the year of Lord
One thousand night hundred and sixty-four.
our
CHARLES FIELD. (L.s.)