Improvements in the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes..
Year: 1899

page_text: Date of Application, 25th July, 1899-Accepted, 14th Oct., 1899
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
"Improvements in the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes..
We, MATTHÄUS HENKE, of Tuttlingen, in the Kingdom of Wurtemberg and
German Empire, Boot and Shoe Manufacturer, and KARL SCHROTT, of Singen,
near Constance, in the Grand Duchy of Baden and German Empire, Master Boot-
maker, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement:-
The present invention relates to an improved manner of cutting the leather
for boots and shoes, in such manner that the whole of the upper (vamp and
quarter) consists of one piece of leather and requires a minimum of stitching.
The invention is illustrated by the accompanying drawings..
Fig. 1 shows a piece of leather cut for a boot.
Fig. 2 shows a form of tongue to be referred to..
Fig. 3 shows a piece of leather cut more especially for a boot having elastic
sides and buckle.
.
Referring in particular to Fig. 1 it will be seen that only one piece of leather,
of a somewhat oval shape is used, and cut in the manner shown. ab form the
side linings, c is the heel cap, the quarter, e the vamp, f is a short slit, and ga
similar slit in the part b, h is the line of cutting separating heel cap and quarter,
beginning at and ending at i. m is. a slit dividing the parts a and b.. It will
thus be observed that the part / falls out.
In order, now, to fold the upper of which Fig. 1 is say an inside view,..the
part d is held vertically so that the heel cap e is uppermost. The long strip. c.is
now bent round so that the centre of the outside of the part c lies against the
centre of the inside of the quarter d. In this position the corner will lock
into the slit s and the strip a will lie below the vamp e at the toe of the .boot.
The strip is now, bent round and the point of it inserted through. the slit f from
above, so far until the slit g comes in line with the slit f. The upper is now
completely in shape, the lap t filling out the side v, so as to correspond to the
side with lap u. The piece which falls out when the leather is cut as shown
in Fig. 1, may be fulled pressed or otherwise treated and used as a tongue, by
being sewn to the vamp.
If desired a larger tongue, such for instance (n) as shown in Fig. 2, may be
employed instead of the tongue l.
The advantages of this system of making boots, are obvious. Hitherto, instead
of one piece of leather, as here, several pieces, usually six, have had to be used.
This naturally necessitates great waste of material, and moreover owing to the
number of seams, the boot is never secure against the penetration of dirt, dust
and water. According to the new system there is a minimum of sewing, and
with the exception of the seam at f g, the lower portion of the upper is perfectly
seamless. Moreover it will be observed that the seam at f g passes through three
layers of leather, the centre laver being a continuous strip, so that the penetration
of water is effectually prevented.

page_text: That there is also a great saving of labour when the improved system is used
is obvious, since the number of pieces of leather which have to be cut is, as
remarked above greatly diminished. In the same time many more pairs of shoes
can be made than formerly has been the case.
It will be seen that when the part is used as tongue, there is absolutely no
piece of the leather (Fig. 1) wasted. And even when the part is not used for
the particular boot being made, it can always be kept and used as tongue for
another boot not requiring a long tongue.
The new system, it will be remarked, can also be used for shoes, as in this
case it is only necessary to cut away some of the upper portion above the part d
The leather thus removed can be used as tongue-leather for boots.
In Fig. 3 a somewhat modified form of the invention is shown, this cut being
especially adapted for boots having inner elastic insets and a buckle. The same
letters are used to denote parts equivalent to those in Fig. 1. In Fig. 3, it will
seen, the cuth runs differently from the same cut in Fig. 1, so that here four
pieces of leather fall out, that is to say l, o, p, and g. The first piece, l, can be
utilised as tongue, and the parts o p and q are so insignificant that their loss
is of no importance. If desired, the parts o, p can be left on the tongue instead
of being severed, as also can the part q be left to form a part of the vamp e.
The folding takes place in similar manner to that described in reference to
Fig. 1. Thus supposing Fig. 3 to represent the outside of the leather, the part d'
being held vertically, the upper part a c is bent round so that the centre of the
outside of the part e lies against the centre of the inside of the quarter d. In
this position the part a will lie under the vamp e towards the toe cap. The
strip b is now bent round, and the point of it inserted from above through the
slit f, so far until the slit g comes in line with the slit f. The upper is now
completely in shape. The flaps vw in this boot may conveniently be held
together by a buckle and the tongue may be stitched at each side to pieces of
elastic (such as shown at r, Fig. 3) sewn to the inside of the flaps.
The numerous advantages of the improved system of cutting the leather may
be summed up as follows:
1. The material is fully utilised, there being practically no waste at all.
2. A larger number of boots can be manufactured on the new system, than is
possible, in the same time, by the ordinary method.
3. There is a saving of labour, so that there is economy as regards the wages
paid.
4. All the complicated stitching and cross stitching of the ordinary system.
is avoided; there is only one main seam and this, since it contains as central.
member a continuous strip of leather, may be said to be impervious to moisture
and the like.
5. A better fit is insured, and thus greater comfort in walking. For since
the two side linings a b run up to the toe cap under the vamp, they form two:
strong walls. This strengthens the boot and prevents strain on the vamp. The
vamp can at these parts be worked so loosely that the toes remain almost free;
and yet owing to the side lining pieces, the vamp is so stiffened, that creasing
is quite prevented. Furthermore, since the whole upper is in one piece, the
strain on quarter and vamp is equalised, such as is the case with no other boot.
6. In spite of these many advantages, the boot can be produced at a price
greatly below that now charged for boots.
7. Owing to the few seams, repairs are rendered almost unnecessary.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what
we claim is:-
1. A boot or shoe the whole of the upper of which, including vamp, quarter,
heel and toe caps and side linings is composed of only one piece of material, a
tongue being cut out whereby two side lining pieces are formed, one of which

page_text: is provided with a slit and is inserted through a corresponding slit made in the
vamp, until the two slits lie in the same line so that the parts can be secured
together, and the tongue piece cut out secured to the vamp, all substantially
as described.
2. A boot or shoe as claimed in Claim 1, in which a lap provided with a slit (f)
projects on one side lining, corresponding to the form of the material on the
opposite side, substantially as described.
3. In a boot or shoe as claimed in Claims 1 and 2. a tongue piece (") of the
form shown in Fig. 2.
4. A boot or shoe as claimed in Claim 1, in which the bottom of the tongue is
secured to the vamp, the sides being connected by elastic insets (such as 7) to
the insides of the two flaps which in front are provided with buckle or the like,
substantially as described.
Dotal th: 09-1 dow of Tul., 1900