Improvements in Sewing Machines.
Year: 1898

page_text: Improvements in Sewing Machines.
I, ELGUILD DUPLESSIS, of No. 46, Napoleon Street, in the City of St. Hyacinthe,
in the County of St. Hyacinthe, and Province of Quebec, Dominion of Canada,
Machinist, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
My invention relates to wax thread lock stitch sewing machines so constructed
that some of its tools or appliances can be readily removed and others can be
substituted for them so that several kinds of work can be done, such as the McKay,
turned shoe, welted work, edge stitching, and a variety of plain sewing, the
machine for this purpose being simple in construction and comparatively free
from friction.
A machine according to my invention comprises a needle, interchangeable
presser-feet, and feed devices, a thread-carrier, a thread case and a thread hook,
which with their operating and carrying parts are arranged wholly or partly by
the machine head, (according to the appliances that may be used and the work
that may be done,) a work support or horn carried by the pedestal, interchangeable
work-tables carried upon the nose of the horn, a needle threader, and a tension
device carried by the body of the horn; a clamping device carried partly by the
horn and partly by the pedestal and a take-up device carried by the pedestal.
All of these parts except the interchangeable presser-feet, feed-devices and
work-tables, including the means for operating and carrying them, always con-
stitute a principal part of the machine whatever be the kind of work performed.
The pedestal of the machine is preferably of the type common to boot and
shoe wax thread sewing machines and has an upper portion or neck of less
diameter than the pedestal body, which can be moved vertically through the
opening in the top of the pedestal and fixed at any desired height by set screws
passing through slotted holes.
This movable neck carries the head portion of the machine, and has bolted to it
near its lower end, a work support preferably in the form of a hollow horn, the
front side of the pedestal body having an opening from its top downward sufficient
to accommodate the horn which projects through it. For adjusting these parts,
relatively to the pedestal, a vertical screw is screwed through a bracket projecting
from the face of the pedestal and has its upper end bearing beneath the base of
the horn.
The usual running gear and attachments are situated at the base of the pedestal
but as they form no part of my invention they need not be described.
The framing of the head portion of the machine comprises a base plate, having
openings down through the centre to communicate with the interior of the
pedestal and a lateral extension on each side, this base being screwed to the top
of the neck portion.
A vertical and forwardly projecting web is formed integral with the base plate,
and has an opening to accommodate the operating cams and their shaft, and left
and right hand standards bolted to the lateral extensions.
The web also has formed in one with it an upwardly projecting ridge or exten-

page_text: sion along its upper edge for about half the length of the web, slotted to
accommodate an adjustable sliding block forming a part of the mechanism, for
regulating the length of stitch.
Bearing projections are also formed on the upper edge of the web one con-
stituting a bearing for a spindle forming a part of the stitch regulating mechanism
and the other serving as a bearing for the fulcerum pin of one of the feed operating
levers.
Near the lower forward end of the web a circular transverse opening is formed
to allow of the operation of the thread carrier as will be hereafter described.
At right angles to such transverse circular opening a second opening is
formed extending up from the lower edge of the web and passing but con-
necting with the circular opening to accommodate the needle and needle
segment.
The upper forward end of the web is bored vertically to receive the lower end of
a vertical standard by which various other parts are carried.
The shaft is mounted in the standards and carries a driving pulley and six camı
discs having cam grooves distributed over their faces for operating the various
tools or appliances.
Looking at the front of the machine and beginning at the right hand end disc,
I will proceed throughout the series of discs and describe the several parts operated
by the respective cam grooves.
This disc has one groove cut in its right-hand face which imparts an oscillatory
movement to an awl adapted to be operatively connected or disconnected to said
cam groove according to the class of work to be done. This awl and its contiguous
parts will be referred to hereinafter more fully.
On the left hand side of this disc two cam grooves are cut one of which operates
the take-up device, and the other acts, in conjunction with one of a pair of cam
grooves cut in the fourth cam disc, to operate an instrumentality carried by a
horizontally swinging and vertically oscillating frame to be hereinafter described.
The take-up lever proper is connected to its cam groove by a jointed rod, and
the parts of this rod are connected together through a collar and pin connection
and the upper part which carries a roller to take into the cam groove, is forked
at its upper end to bear on either side of the shaft to steady and keep the rod
always in a true vertical position.
The lower part of the rod passes down through an opening in the top of the
movable neck portion of the pedestal and at its lower end is formed with an eye to
allow of its being pivotally connected with the take-up lever preferably in the
following manner:
A flanged sleeve with screw threaded end is first passed through the said eye
so that the flange will bear against the inner side of the end of rod and the screw
threaded end project on the opposite side sufficiently to receive a nut, which,
being screwed up tightly against the side of the rod, connects the sleeve and rod
together, after which a bolt, (having a circular portion, which can freely rotate
in the sleeve and a screw threaded end portion to receive a nut) is passed through
such sleeve. A washer is then set in place at a point out of contact with the
flanged inner end of the sleeve and the other end of the bolt is passed through a
slot in the short arm of the take-up lever and receives a washer and the nut.
latter nut is screwed up tightly to effect a rigid connection betwen such take-up
lever and the bolt, thus furnishing a rigid pivot capable of free rotation in the
sleeve carried by the lower part of the vertical rod.
This
The take-up lever is of bell-crank form and fulcrumed within the movable
neck portion of the pedestal upon a pivot pin or bolt passed through an opening
in one side of the neck portion and screw threaded into the opposite side of same,
the head being shaped to conform with the periphery of such neck portion so as
not to interfere in any way with the adjustment of this latter within the pedestal
proper.
The long arm of the take-up lever is curved to allow of its working within the

page_text: horn, and carries a sheave on its outer end, while near its inner end, in close
proximity to its fulcrum point, is cast a projection in the form of a rod projecting
downward to engage with and operate the tension lever.
The other cam groove in the same side of the cam disc as the cam groove for
operating the parts just described, and that assists as before mentioned in the
operation of the instrumentality carried by the oscillating vertical frame, receives
a roller carried by the inner end of a main lever fulcrumed on one of the before
mentioned bearing projections. This lever has its outer end bent inward beneath
and flexibly connected with a secondary lever which is in the form of a straight
arm having its inner end fulcrumed upon the fulcrum pin of the main lever, and
its outer end curved concentric with the spindle carried in the front end of the
web or frame. The flexible connection between these main and secondary levers
is preferably effected by means of a coiled spring taken around a stud projecting
from the side of the lever and having one end connected to such lever and the other
to the main lever, preferably by means of a clamping plate holding the end
of the spring securely in a groove cut in the face of the said main lever.
The forward end of this main lever, as before mentioned, is bent in beneath
the secondary lever and a lug is preferably formed on the side of the said
secondary lever up against the underside of which the main lever is pressed by
the action of the spring, and such main lever operates to impart a vertical
reciprocating movement to whatever instrumentality or tool may be carried by the
vertically oscillating frame to be hereinafter described.
I will now describe the before mentioned cam groove that acts in conjunction
with the cam groove for operating the parts just described.
The particular function of this cam groove is to impart a horizontal recipro-
cating motion to the instrumentality or tool carried by said oscillating frame.
This groove receives a roller carried on the inner end of a lever fulcrumed to
a movable block. This block is adapted to be adjusted along the before mentioned
horizontal slot in the upwardly projecting ridge of the web, by means of a rack
and pinion. This pinion is operated by a hand wheel to impart a sliding move-
ment to the rack which is rigidly connected to the fulcrum block, thereby securing
a diminished or lengthened movement of the outer end of the lever according
as the fulcrum block is moved from or to the operating cam.
This lever is operatively connected to the before mentioned horizontally swing-
ing frame which I will now describe.
The outer end of the lever is forked to enter between two annular shoulders,
formed on the lower end of a sleeve which has a laterally projecting lug at
its upper end, and is fitted loosely on the vertical standard at the upper forward
end of the web.
A link has one end loosely pivotted to the said lug, and its opposite end to the
upper end of a vertically oscillating carrier-frame, such latter frame having sleeves
at its ends and being pivotally connected at its lower end to a portion of a
vertically arranged and horizontally swinging frame. This swinging frame is
connected with the standard through a pair of horizontal arms formed rigidly at
its upper and lower ends respectively, and having vertical openings to encircle
such standard, while the sleeve has a socket or sleeve carried thereby the function.
whereof will be hereinafter fully described.
To shift this horizontal swinging frame and set it in the position to which
it may be shifted, a notched disc is located above the upper arm thereof upon
the standard and held rigidly upon said standard by means of a screw cap or
nut, which forces it against a shoulder formed on such standard, a spring
operated latch being used to engage the notches in said disc. This latch is
in the form of a lever and is fulcrumed upon the pivot pin of the vertically
oscillating frame and has a vertical arm adapted to engage the notches in the
disc and a horizontal arm adapted to be engaged by a pin projection on a
hand lever also fulcrumed upon said pivot pin. The vertical arm of this latch

page_text: is provided with an pin projection adapted to come in contact with the horizontally
swinging frame and so limit the outward movement of said latch.
The hand lever is also used for elevating the instrumentality located in the
oscillating frame, and is formed with a bevelled projection and a notch on its
upper side to bear upon and engage a pin projection on the side of a sleeve
adapted to receive and rigidly hold the shank of the said instrumentality.
The cam groove in the second disc acts in conjunction with a cam groove in
the third disc, to operate the thread-carrier. The groove in the second disc
receives a roller carried by the inner end of a lever fulcrumed on the diminished
outer end of a block and held in place thereon by means of a nut. The inner end
of this block, which is perforated, is also diminished and screw threaded to
take into a similarly screw-threaded boring in the web, the lever carries, at its
outer end, a segmental toothed rack. The cam groove in the third disc receives
a roller carried on a stud bearing on the side of a sleeve having wing plates
cast in one with it, and bearing upon the sides of said groove to steady the
sleeve and keeps the roller from being displaced by the rotation of a sliding
rod the diminished or inner end of which carries such sleeve loosely retained
thercon by means of screw.
This sliding rod passes through and is carried in the before mentioned per-
foration in the block, and through a bearing also on the side of the web, and is
adapted to receive a reciprocating movement from the groove in the third disc,
and a rotary movement from the groove in the second disc through a pinion
carried rigidly on the rod, a segmental toothed rack and a lever on which such
segmental toothed rack is carried.
The forward end of this rod is bored longitudinally and receives the rear end
of the thread-carrier proper which is in the form of a finger bent so that its
free end will protect in front of the thread case and carry the thread, in a
hook at its extreme end, from the needle to the thread case, where it is taken by
an oscillating thread hook and conveyed partially around said thread case.
A second cam groove in the third disc operates this oscillating thread hook and
a device for preventing any accidental displacement of the thread case when
the oscillating hook is thrown back to release the thread after it has taken it
around the case.
The groove receives a roller carried on the inner end of a lever which is
fulcrumed to the web or frame, and has its outer end terminating in a segmental
toothed rack. This rack intermeshes with a pinion which is formed in one
with and centrally of the side of a circular plate which has a peripheral projection
to which is secured the oscillating thread hook. This plate and the pinion are
centrally bored and mounted upon a stud bearing in one end of a bracket arm
secured at the other end to the web or frame and bent outward and parallel with
such web so as to leave sufficient space between it and the web for the pinion
and plate just mentioned and the thread case now to be described.
The thread case encloses the upper thread and consists of a shallow cylindrical
box, one side or end of which is open, and the other and closed side of which
has a central boss or pin. This pin is preferably passed through a central
opening in such closed side to project into the case and carries in grooves formed
along its periphery and end, a spring clip parts of which project beyond the
periphery but are compressible.
The head of this pin provides a projection necessary to establish a space
between the periphery of the case and the frame of the machine to enable the
thread to pass freely around same.
The thread reel or bobbin is formed with two circular side plates which are
connected by a central tubular core adapted to fit over the pin in the thread
case and be held in place thereon by frictional contact with the projecting parts of
the spring clip which are compressed by it.
The periphery of the thread case is perforated to allow of the passage of the

page_text: thread therethrough, and adjacent to such perforation a resilient tension plate
is arranged one end of which is rivetted to the case and the other end bent inward
to bear upon the periphery of the case and formed with a hook. A slot
in the periphery of the case, extends from the perforation to a point beneath the
tension plate near the hook thereof, and an adjusting screw, passing through
an aperture in the tension plate and screwed into the periphery of the case,
being used to regulate the pressure of such plate.
In order to reduce to a minimum any chance of the rotation of the thread
case upon its supporting-shelf during the operation of the machine I provide a
downward projection from the lowermost point of the periphery of the case as it
stands in its normal position, and I form an opening in the supporting-shelf
with which said projection will engage if the case has any tendency to revolve,
and I prefer to confine this projection only to the inner side of the periphery so
that it will not materially obstruct the passage of the thread around the case.
The thread case is stationary, being merely supported by a curved shelf or
ledge, projecting from the side of the web or frame, and is prevented from
displacement at one time by the thread hook when such hook is thrown
forward and at another time (when said thread hook is thrown back) by means of
a device consisting of a rocking bell-crank lever. This bell-crank lever is
fulcrumed to the web or frame, one arm of which is slotted, to allow of a
sliding connection with, and its operation by the lever for operating the
oscillating thread hook, through a projection on the side of such latter lever, and
the outer end of the other arm of this bell-crank lever is curved so as to partially
encircle the thread case when the oscillating hook is thrown back as just
mentioned.
I have already described the means operated by one of the pair of cam grooves
in the fourth cam disc and I will now describe the other.
This cam groove is used to operate the parts for raising and lowering the
instrumentality located in the oscillating frame. The groove receives a roller
carried on the end of a main lever fulcrumed to the web, and having a lateral
projection on one side through which it has a flexible connection with a secondary
lever which I will now describe.
This secondary lever is curved somewhat and fulcrumed centrally of its length
at the same point, on the web as is the said main lever, its inner or rear end
carrying a screw with which one end of a retractile coiled spring is connected,
its other end being connected by means of a retaining screw to a device, for
adjusting the tension of such spring. This device consists of a screw bolt
taking in a screw-threaded boring in the web and carrying loosely thereon, a
block which in turn carries a guide rod sliding vertically through a second
boring in the web.
The purpose of this flexible connection between these two levers is to allow
the secondary lever a certain amount of independent play, or automatic adjust-
ment, as is required by the variations in the elevation of the presser-foot caused
by the varying thickness of the stock, being operated upon. The lateral pro-
jection on the main lever serves to maintain the said main and secondary levers
in their proper relative position. Either one of the presser feet, according to
the work to be done is carried adjustably with relation to the work by a swivelling
block in the outer end of such secondary lever and is held in place in such
block by a set screw.
'
An adjustable guide for the upper end or shank portion of the presser foot is
provided and is in the form of a curved arm slotted and held to the web by
a set screw.
The cam groove in the fifth disc is used to operate the needle and receives a
roller mounted on the inner end of a connecting rod having its outer end pivotally
connected with the needle segment which carries a curved needle, said needle
segment being held in place in the guideway before mentioned by suitable
retaining plates.

page_text: The cam groove in the sixth disc is for operating the needle threader and
receives a roller which is axially mounted on the side of a reciprocating vertical
rod, preferably formed in two parts or lengths and adapted to project laterally
into said groove.
The parts of this rod may be connected together in a similar manner to the
parts of the take-up lever connecting-rod, and the upper part thereof, which
carries the roller, like the upper part of said take-up rod, is forked at its upper
end.
The lower part of the threader-rod passes down through the top of the move-
able neck portion of the pedestal and at its lower end is formed with an elongated
eye, to allow of its being adjustably and pivotally connected with one arm of a
horizontal lever fulcrumed on a rod at the base of the horn, which carries the
tension wheel and its operating spring as will be hereinafter described the other
arm of this horizontal lever is pivotally connected to the lower end of a re-
ciprocating bar or section extending from said horizontal lever up the interior
of the horn, to within a short distance of the nose of the horn.
This bar is longitudinally slotted about midway of its length to take over a
block pivotally carried upon a pin within the horn and with which block said
bar or section has a sliding connection. The upper end of this section carries the
threader portion proper.
This threader portion proper consists of a pair of spring fingers carried in the
upper end of said bar and secured therein by set screws, by the loosening of
which the finger can be adjusted higher or lower as may be desired, with relation
to the needle.
The upper free ends of the fingers are formed, one with an eye and the other
with a hook, the eye and hook being for the purpose of placing the thread in the
barb of the needle; while the hook allows of the withdrawal of the thread by
the needle. As a means for adjusting or locating the threader relatively to the
needle, adjusting screws are carried by the sides of the horn and are adapted
to bear loosely upon either side of the bar without in any way interfering with
its motion. The thread tension device which I prefer to use consists of a sheave
mounted loosely on the fulcrum rod of the threader-lever (before mentioned),
and has two peripheral V-shaped grooves, the former of which receives the
thread and latter of which presents two friction faces for a friction lever (presently
to be described) to bear upon.
Acting upon this sheave is a flanged sleeve loosely mounted on said rod and
forced against one side of the web of such sheave by means of a coiled spring
encircling the rod and having one end bearing against the said sleeve and the
other end against the hub of an adjusting hand-wheel screw-threaded on the outer
end of such rod, the pressure of the sleeve upon the sheave serving to force it
in turn against another sleeve similar to the first mentioned sleeve but rigidly
mounted on the rod.
The friction lever has one end fulcrumed in the base of the work support or
horn at a point below the sheave and its opposite end is flexibly connected with
the pedestal by a coiled spring while a lateral shoe projects from its upper side
and has its edge shaped to conform to the groove in which it bears in the
sheave.
This friction lever requires to be furnished with a rise or projection of some
sort to be acted upon by the downwardly projecting oscillating finger (formed
rigidly with the take-up lever), and in order that the action of the lever may
be varied, and the extent to which the thread from the thread case is drawn
through the work, regulated, I prefer to make such rise or projection in the
form of an adjustable block nut fitting over and having a screw threaded con-
nection with the friction lever, and formed with a lateral extension, such nut or
block being movable along the lever in either direction.
The stationary needle guide or brace is in the form of a finger, and is pre-
ferably adjustably secured to the front of the web and projects downward, and is

page_text: bent inward so that its lower end, which is recessed to conform to the needle,
will engage and thereby guide and brace said needle during its operation.
The brace is slotted for the passage therethrough of a retaining screw and also
to allow of vertical adjustment, while a fulcrum projection is formed on its inside
face to bear against the web and allow of lateral adjustment by means of an
adjusting screw carried by its upper end and adapted to bear upon the web.
Thus far I have described all the parts of the machine which are common to
and which operate the immediate parts, tools or instrumentalities that act
directly upon the work and being interchangeable as may be desired for various
kinds or characters of work such as the McKay stitch, turned shoe" sewing,
the stitch of welted work, edge stitching and plain straight sewing, and I will
first proceed to described the particular instrumentalities necessary to the produc-
tion of the McKay stitch.
These particular instrumentalities consist of first, a work table, consisting of a
plate of a size corresponding approximately to the nose of the horn and with a
plain upper surface, perforated at near one end for the passage of the needle and
having a web on its underside by which it can be held in place in the nose of the
horn, by a set screw passing through the sides of the work support and through
the web. A recess concentric with the said needle perforation is formed in the
underside of the table to accommodate the upper end of the threader in its
operation with the needle. Secondly, the presser foot which is in the form of a
bar with lower off-set flattened bearing end, curved to afford an extensive bearing
surface. Third, a feed device comprising a feed dog proper in the form of a
curved bar bent or made in crank form with its lower end pointed to effect a
hold upon the work and its upper end or shank bearing loosely in the sleeves of
the vertically oscillating frame, and rigidly secured by a set screw within the
before mentioned collar or short sleeve which has lateral fork projections between
which the outer end of the auxiliary lever operated by one of the cam grooves
in the first disc, is located in order that a vertical reciprocal movement can be
imparted to the shank of the said feed dog.
A horn is necessary in this embodiment of my invention only because the class
of work generally done therewith, eiz.: sewing the sole to the upper of a boot
or shoe with the sole uppermost, requires that the threader be enclosed, to shield
it, and a sufficient space left between the stitch forming instrumentalities and
the pedestal to allow the boot or shoe being operated upon to be turned so as to
run the line of stitching around the edge of the sole thereof. The work table
being made as small as possible to facilitate the movement of the boot or shoe
about same.
In order to adapt this machine to sew welted or turned work, a presser-foot
for that class of work should be substituted for the "McKay" presser-foot just
described, a combined welt guide and work-guide substituted for the feed-device,
and a work table having a rigid channel guide substituted for the McKay work-
table. The feed device for feeding the welted or turned work is carried by the
work-table, and, as will be presently set forth, is operated partly by the oscil-
lating frame already described and partly by a lever fulcrumed upon a bearing
block removably secured to the underside of the web, this lever being actuated
by the cam groove in the right hand side of the first disc herein before inciden-
tally alluded to.
The presser-foot for welted or turned work consists of a shank or bar, having
a narrowed foot provided with a toothed or serrated bearing edge, to enable it
to hold the work being operated upon more securely against displacement. This
presser-foot is carried by having the shank thereof set about midway of its length
in the end of the before described presser-foot lever, the upper end of such shank
being located in the before described curved guide, adjustably mounted on the
side of the web above the end of said lever.
The work guide consists of a shank or bar formed with its lower half flattened
to give to it a certain amount of resiliency, and off-set to accommodate the feed

page_text: device, in order that its rounded end will be located adjacent to the needle.
Such work guide is carried in the before described forked sleeve from which it
receives a vertical reciprocal movement, a horizontal reciprocal movement being
imparted by the before described vertically oscillating carrier frame.
The work-guide has a horizontal and vertical reciprocal movement imparted to
it in order that it will not interfere with the feeding of the work but will accom-
pany and hold the work until the presser-foot relieves it,' and it will then return
to its normal position, the resiliency of such guide allowing it to hold the work
firmly without marking it.
To enable this work guide to serve also as a welt-guide when "welted work" is
being stitched, a thin strip with an inwardly turned free end, is secured to the
side of the lower flattened portion of the work guide, by set screws, and, in order
that different widths of welt can be guided, I provide an adjustable gauge, con-
sisting of a piece of wire bent to form a triangle with a finger extension. The
apex end thereof fits around and is guided on one of the said set screws and the
opposite or base end is wide enough to allow of play about the other set screw
sufficient for adjustment. This gauge is preferably located between the flattened
end of the work guide and the welt guide strip, the latter serving to clamp it
in position with the finger extension, projecting into the passage or space
through which the welt passes between the two guides.
When a narrow welt is to be used, the set screws should be loosened and the
lower end of the triangular gauge moved towards the left which will cause the
finger to project downwardly further into the welt passage and enable same to be
diminished to the required width to exactly accommodate the welt. To accom-
modate wider welt the gauge will, of course, be moved in the opposite direction,
thus widening the passage.
The channel guide is, as just mentioned, formed integrally with the work-table
or plate which is secured over the open nose of the horn by means of a web
extending downwardly over the left hand side of the nose of the horn and attached
thereto by screws. A portion of the front edge of this work-table is cut away to
accommodate the needle, and the feeding awl (the latter to be presently fully
described) and two upwardly projecting bearings are formed on the top of the
plate.
The before-mentioned awl, which constitutes the feed device when the machine
is arranged to sew welted or turned work is carried by a segment, the segment
being formed in one with one end of a horizontal sleeve mounted loosely upon a
spindle carried rigidly in the bearings on the work-table. This sleeve is shorter
than the spindle to allow it to slide upon same in order that an oscillatory and
horizontal reciprocal movement may be imparted to the awl. The oscillatory
movement is secured by means of a toothed segment formed rigidly upon the end
of the said horizontal sleeve opposite to that upon which the awl segment is
formed. With this toothed segment intermeshes the widened toothed outer end
of the lever fulcrumed upon the before mentioned removable bearing block
secured to the under side of the web. The inner end of this lever carries a roller
to take into the before mentioned cam groove cut in the outer face of the first
disc. The horizontal reciprocal movement is imparted by the said vertically
oscillating carrier-frame through a rod having its lower end forked to straddle
the last mentioned spindle and bear in a slot in the horizontal sleeve.
This rod is retained rigidly by a set screw in the before mentioned rigid sleeve
carried by the said vertically oscillating frame, and a portion of the right hand
side of the nose of the horn is removed to allow of the working of the awl and
its carrying parts.
My object in providing a removable portion of the horn is to enable such horn
to be completely closed up when being used for doing what is known as McKay
work or through-and-through sewing.
In order to adapt this machine to do edge stitching a presser-foot of particular
construction should be substituted for the welted or turned-work presser-foot

page_text: A work-table somewhat similar to the work-table just described but without the
rigid channel-guide, is substituted for the said just described work-table, and the
McKay feed device should be substituted for the work guide just described, and
works in conjunction with the awl.
The edge-stitching presser-foot, consists of a shank or bar having a narrowed
and tapered foot portion having its forward end notched to allow of portions of
such foot portion being situated in close proximity to the needle and on opposite
sides of same, while a groove is formed along its underside to accommodate the
stitching beneath it and so avoid any chance of flattening or wearing such stitch-
ing.
The foot portion is tapered in order that it may bear over the stitch and at the
same time be raised and lowered while the sole is being stitched without inter-
fering with either the upper or the stitches.
The work table consists of a plate the dimensions of which will depend upon
the manner in which the work is held while being stitched. For instance, if it
is desirous that the boot or shoe to be operated upon be held with the tread
thereof uppermost, the forwardly projecting portion of the table will have to be
shortened so as to accommodate the upper of the boot or shoe, and, at the same
time, act as a work guide. I prefer, however, to hold the boot or shoe to be
stitched with the tread of the sole thereof downward in which case either the side
of the foot portion of the presser-foot, will act as a work-guide, or a readily
removeable work guide (to be hereinafter described) can be provided
and the work table can be considerably enlarged for a purpose to
hereinafter set forth, thus enabling a variety of plain straight sewing
to be done, such as sewing belting, harness or the like. This
work table is preferably secured over the open nose of the horn by means
of a web extending downwardly over the left hand side of the nose, of the horn
and attached thereto by screws, an opening is cut through the plate to accom-
modate the needle and the perforating awl.
The adjustable readily removable stationary work guide that I prefer to use
if it is desirable to keep the work from touching the presser-foot consists of a
plate slotted to receive a retaining screw which takes into the work table, the
bearing edge of this guide being off-set or bent upward and outward to provide
a space to accommodate the edge of the sole and allow the forwardly projecting
portion of the guide to bear upon the upper of the boot or shoe.
The awl when edge stitching is being done must project out of its segment a
sufficient distance to allow it to pass through the work, which is readily done,
in order that upon the machine being started the awl or perforator will be passed
through the work a sufficient distance to project upward a short distance in front
of the end of the feed dog to allow such feed dog to bear against the end of
such awl or perforator. This arrangement enables the work to be fed by such
feed dog without the necessity of its being inserted into the work, thereby,
besides affording a firm hold upon the work to be fed, at the same time not dis-
figuring the surface of such work.
It is obvious that by providing a machine adapted to do McKay or through-and-
through sewing, the stitching of welted or turned work, and edge stitching,
besides a variety of plain sewing, the necessity of owning a number of different
machines for the manufacture of boots and shoes is obviated, and furthermore
owing to the simplicity of the construction of my machine, whatever work it
may be arranged to perform, and the small number of parts embodied therein, a
greater amount of work can be done in a given time than has been possible here-
tofore, when a separate machine has been used for each kind of work.
Dated this 14th day of November 1898
ABEL & IMRAY,
Agents for the Applicant.

page_text: Improvements in sewing machines,
I, ELOUILD DUPLESSIS, of No. 46, Napoleon Street, in the City of St. Hyacinthe,
in the County of St. Hyacinthe, and Province of Quebec, Dominion of Canada,
Machinist, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement:-
-
My invention relates to wax thread lock stitch sewing machines so constructed
that some of its tools or appliances can be readily removed and others can be
substituted for them so that several kinds of work can be done, such as the McKay,
turned shoe, welted work, edge stitching, and a variety of plain sewing, the
machine for this purpose being simple in construction and comparatively free
from friction.
A machine according to my invention comprises a needle, interchangeable
presser, feet and feed devices, a thread carrier, a thread case and a thread hook,
which with their operating and carrying parts are arranged wholly or partly
by the machine head, (according to the appliances that may be used and the
work that may be done) a work support or horn carried by the pedestal, inter-
changeable work-tables carried upon the nose of the horn, a needle threader,
and a tension device carried by the body of the horn; a clamping device carried
partly by the horn and partly by the pedestal and a take-up device carried by
the pedestal.
All of these parts except the interchangeable presser feet, feed devices and
work tables, including the means for operating and carrying them, always con-
stitute a principal part of the machine whatever be the kind of work performed.
I shall describe my invention referring to the accompanying drawings in
which like symbols indicate corresponding parts.
Fig. 1 is a front view of the machine head arranged for McKay work or through
and through sewing.
Fig. 2 is a left hand side elevation, partly broken away.
Fig. 3 a right hand side elevation.
Fig. 4 a vertical section of the upper portion of the machine, illustrating
particularly the threader and take-up.
Fig. 5 illustrates the needle operating mechanism.
Fig. 6 illustrates the thread-hook mechanism and part of the thread carrier
mechanism.
Fig. 7 illustrates in detail the parts of the thread carrier mechanism.
Fig. 8 an enlarged vertical section taken on line Z, Z, of Fig. 4.
Fig. 9 illustrates partly in section the carrying end of the presser-foot lever.
Fig. 10 a transverse section thereof.
Fig. 11 a horizontal section on the plane of the shaft.
Fig. 12 a detail clevation of the connection between the take-up rod and its
lever.
Fig. 13 a section on line a, a, of Fig. 12.
Fig. 14 an enlarged horizontal section near the top of the pedestal.
Fig. 15 a detail sectional view of the needle guide.
Fig. 16 an enlarged section of the nose of the horn.
Fig. 17 a transverse vertical section on line x, x, of Fig. 10.
Fig. 18 an enlarged perspective view of the threader.
Fig. 19 a detail rear side elevation of the horizontally swinging frame.
Fig. 20 a detail section of the vertically oscillating carrier frame.

page_text: Fig. 21 a side elevation partly broken away of the thread case.
Fig. 22 a front elevation thereof.
Fig. 23 a detail transverse section of the thread case on line x, x, of Fig. 21.
Fig. 24 a detail view of the bobbin.
Figs. 25 and 26 detail perspective views of the work table used in doing M°Kay
work or through-and-through sewing.
Figs. 27 and 28 detail elevations drawn to a slightly reduced scale of the
presser-foot used in doing McKay or through-and-through sewing.
Fig. 29 is a perspective view (drawn to a larger scale than Figs. 27 and 28)
of the presser-foot for sewing welted or turned work.
Fig. 30 is a detail perspective view of the combined work guide and welt
guide used in this work.
Fig. 31 is a perspective view of the work-table for doing this class of work.
Fig. 32 is a detail perspective view of the presser-foot for doing edge stitching.
Fig. 33 a detail perspective view of the work-table used in doing edge stitching.
Fig. 34 is a front elevation of the machine head arranged for sewing welted
or turned work.
Fig. 35 is a right hand side elevation of same.
Fig. 36 is a left hand side elevation of same partly broken away.
Fig. 37 is a detail perspective view of a removable portion of the horn removed.
Fig. 38 is a front elevation of the head of the machine arranged to do edge
stitching, and
Fig. 39 is a right hand side elevation thereof.
As a considerable portion of the mechanism in the machine remains unchanged
whether McKay, welted or turned work, or edge stitching is to be done, I will
first describe said mechanism and then the manner in which the interchange-
able appliances are set and operated by or used in conjunction with the unchange-
able parts.
The arrows beside the letters marking lines of section indicate the directions
in which the views are taken.
The pedestal a of the machine is preferably of the type common to boot and
shoe wax thread sewing machines and has an upper adjustable portion or neck a¹
of less diameter than the pedestal body and movable vertically through the
opening in the top of the pedestal which is slotted as at a² on opposite sides
to allow suitable set screws a³ to pass through for fixing the head at any desired
height.
This movable neck a¹ (Fig. 4) carries the head portion of the machine, and
also has bolted to it near its lower end, a work support preferably in the form
of a hollow horn a', the front side of the pedestal body a having an opening
from its top downward sufficiently to accommodate the horn which projects
through it. For adjusting and securing these parts, relatively to the pedestal,
a vertical screw as is passed through a bracket a projecting from the face of the
pedestal a and bears with its upper end against the base of the horn, its lower
end having a hole to receive a rod for turning it.
The framing of the head of the machine comprises a base plate 6 having
central openings to communicate with the interior of the pedestal and a flange b'
on each side (Fig. 3) screwed to the top of the neck a¹.
62 is a vertical and forwardly projecting web integral with the base plate b,
and 63 is a space to accommodate the operating cams and their shaft D which
has bearings in standards b.
The web 63 also has formed in one with it an upwardly projecting ridge 66
extending along its upper edge from its front backward for about half the
length of the web and slotted at 67 to accommodate an adjustable sliding block
forming a part of the mechanism to be presently described, for regulating the
length of stitch.
Projections 68 69, are also formed on the upper edge of the web 62 the one 7,8

page_text: forming a bearing for a spindle forming a part of said stitch regulating mecha-
nism and 69 receiving the pivot of one of the feed operating levers.
Near the lower forward end of the web b2 a circular transverse opening 6
is formed to allow of the operation of the thread carrier as will be hereafter
described; at right angles to the opening 610 a second opening is formed
extending up from the lower edge of the web passing but connecting with the
opening 60 as shown in Fig. 5 to allow the operation of, and accommodate the
needle and needle segment.
The upper forward end of the web 62 is bored vertically at 612 to receive the
lower end of a vertical standard c by which various parts to be hereafter described
are carried.
The shaft D carries a driving pulley D', a disc D2 having cam grooves e and f
cut in its inner face, and groover cut in its outer face; a second disc D³ having
a cam groove g; a third disc D having cam grooves h, k; a fourth disc D³ with
cam grooves m, n; a fifth disc D6 with cam groove o; and a sixth disc 17 having
a cam groove ?.
Looking at the front of the machine and beginning at the right hand end
disc D², I will proceed throughout the series of discs and describe the several
parts operated by the respective cam grooves (except groove which will be
described later) commencing with cam groove e for operating the take-up.
This groove e, shewn in Fig. 4, receives a roller e¹ which projects into the
groove being pivotted on the side of a vertically reciprocating rod, preferably
formed in two parts or lengths e², e³.
The parts (e, e³) of this rod are connected together by a collar and pin et and
the upper part e² is forked at its upper end to engage the shaft D to keep the
rod always vertical.
The lower part of the rod passes down through the movable neck portion of
the pedestal and at its lower end has an eye e pivotally connected with the
take-up lever e preferably as shewn in Figs. 12 and 13.
A flanged sleeve e with screw threaded end is first passed through the eye e
so that the flange bears against the inner side of the rod e³ and the screwed part
on the other side receives a nut.e, which, being screwed up tightly, connects
the sleeve and rod together, after which a round bolt el having its end portion
screwed to receive a nut e12, is passed through the sleeve es. A washer e¹¹ is then
put on el against its shoulder out of contact with the flange of the sleeve, and
the bolt is passed through a slot e¹³ in the short arm of the take-up lever e³, to
receive a washer and the nut e12, which is screwed up tightly making a rigid
connection between the take-up lever and the bolt, and forms a pivot free to
rotate in the sleeve e8.
The take-up lever e is of bell-crank form pivotted at e, within the movable
neck portion of the pedestal, as shewn in Figs. 4 and 14.
The long arm of the take-up lever is curved to allow of its working within the
horn a and carries a sheave 5 on its outer end; near its inner end close to its
pivot, is a projection in the form of a rod el projecting downward to engage with
and operate the tension lever.
The cam groove f on the disc 12 acts in conjunction with the cam groove n
in the disc D³ to operate the parts carried by the oscillating vertical frame; I will
first describe the parts actuated by the groove f, Fig. 4, which receives a roller f¹
carried by the inner end of a lever f2 pivotted on the projection and having
its outer end bent inward beneath and flexibly connected with a secondary 5
lever which is a straight arm having its inner end jointed to the fulcrum pin
of the lever f2 and its outer end curved concentric with the spindle c. f³ is
flexibly connected to f3 by a coiled spring f encircling a stud f projecting
from the side of the lever and having one end connected to f and the other to f
preferably by a clamping plate f holding the end of the spring securely in a 5
groove cut in the face of the lever f2.

page_text: The forward end of the lever f, as before mentioned, is bent in beneath the
lever and a lug f is preferably formed on the side of the lever f³ against the
underside of which the lever få is pressed by the spring fand the lever f
imparts a vertical reciprocating movement to a feed dog which I will describe
after describing the cam groove and parts operated by it.
The cam groove n acts in conjunction with the cam groove f for operating the
parts carried by the oscillating vertical frame, and its particular function is to
impart a horizontal reciprocating motion to those parts.
This groove n receives a roller n¹ carried on the inner end of a lever n² which
is pivotted on a movable block n³ adjustable along the slot 67 by a rack 112 and
pinion 113, turned by hand wheel 114 to slide the rack, which is fixed to fulcrum
block 3, thus determining a greater or less movement of the outer end of
lever according as the fulcrum block n³ is moved to or from the cam n.
The lever n³ is connected to a horizontally swinging frame which I will now.
describe, reference being had particularly to Figs. 1, 19 and 20.
The outer end of the lever 3 is forked to enter between two annular
shoulders no, n", formed on the lower end of a sleeve 13 which has a laterally
projecting lug n13 at its upper end and is fitted loosely on the vertical standard c.
A link has one end jointed to the lug 13 and its other end to the upper
end of a vertically oscillating carrier frame n, which has sleeves 16, 17, at its
ends and is jointed at its lower end at 18 to a portion of the swinging
frame jointed to the standard c through arms n20, 21 encircling the standard.
To shift this horizontal swinging frame and set it in the position to which it
may be shifted, a notched disc above the arm is fixed on the standard c
by a screw cap or nut n23, which forces it against a shoulder n2+ on the standard.
A spring latch engaging the notches in the disc is in the form of a lever n
pivotted at 18 and having a vertical arm engaging the notches in the disc 2
and a horizontal arm engaged by a projecting pin on a hand lever n, also
pivotted at 18, the spring ns acts on the latch as shewn in Fig. 19. The vertical
arm of the lever 25 has a projecting pin 2 which comes in contact with the
frame and so limits the outward movement of the lever.
The hand lever n2 is also used for elevating the parts in the oscillating frame,
and is formed with a beveled projection 30 (Fig. 1) and a notch n on its upper
side to bear upon and engage a pin projecting from the side of sleeve 31 secured to
the shank of the feed device.
The cam groove g in disc D³ shewn in Fig. 7 acts in conjunction with the cam
groove in disc D* to operate the thread carrier, the groove g receiving a roller g
carried by the inner end of a lever g² pivotted on the outer end of a block g³
(Fig. 11) and held thereon by a nut g. The inner end of this block, which has a
hole go through it is screwed into the web b2 and the lever g carries at its outer end
a segmental toothed rack . The cam groove h, as shewn in Figs. 6 and 7,
receives a roller h¹ carried on a stud h³ (Fig. 11) on the side of a sleeve h³ having
wing plates h integral with it and bearing upon the sides of groove h to steady
the sleeve and keep the roller h¹ from being displaced by the rotation of a sliding
rod h, the inner end of which carries the sleeve loosely held on it by a screw h
This sliding rod passes through and is carried in the hole in the block g³ on
which the lever g³ is pivotted and through a bearing h³, and receives a reciprocat-
ing movement from the groove h, and a rotary movement from the groove g through
a pinion fixed on the rod h, the segmental toothed rack g and the lever g² on
which the segmental toothed rack is carried.
The front end of the rod is bored longitudinally and receives the rear end
of the thread carrier proper which is in the form of a finger 10 bent, as shewn
in Figs.
and 11, so that its free end projects in front of the thread case and
carries the thread, in a hook " at its extreme end, from the needle to the thread
case as shewn in Fig. 11.
The cam groovek, in the disc D* shewn in Fig. 6 operates the oscillating thread
hook and a device for preventing any accidental displacement of the thread case

page_text: when the oscillating hook is thrown back to release the thread after it has taken
it around the case.
The groovek receives a roller k¹ carried on the inner end of a lever which
is pivotted at 3 to the web 62 and has its outer end terminating in a segmental
toothed rack. This rack k gears with a pinion on the side of a circular
plate which has a projection to which is secured the oscillating thread
hook, the plate and pinion being mounted upon a stud bearing in one end
of a bracket arm to fixed on the web 62 and bent outward and parallel with the
web so as to leave sufficient space between it and the web for the pinion and
plate and the thread case which encloses the upper thread and is shewn in
detail in Figs. 21, 22, 23 and 24. It is a shallow cylindrical box having one
side open and the other closed, which has a central boss or pin 12 projecting
into the case and carrying in grooves along its sides and end a spring clip k¹³
parts of which project beyond the surface of the pin, but are compressible.
The thread bobbin consists of two circular side plates 14 which are connected
by a central tube k¹5 fitting over the pin and held thereon by frictional con-
tact with the projecting parts of the spring clip 13 which are compressed by it.
The periphery of the thread case is perforated at 16 to allow passage for
the thread, and near this hole a tension plate is arranged one end of which
is rivetted to the case and the other end is bent inward to bear upon the peri-
phery of the case and formed with a hook 18. A slot 19 extends from the thread
hole to a point beneath the tension plate near its hook, and an adjusting
screw regulates the pressure of the plate.
The thread case is stationary, being merely supported by a curved shelf or
ledge projecting from the side of the web b², and it is prevented from dis-
placement at one time by the thread hook 8 when such hook is thrown forward
and at another time when the thread hook is thrown back, by means of a
device consisting of a rocking bell-crank lever pivotted on the web, at 23
one arm being slotted, at 124, to allow of a sliding connection with and its opera-
tion by, lever through a pin. The outer end 12 is curved so as to partially
encircle the thread case when the oscillating hook is thrown back, as shewn in
dotted lines in Fig. 6.
The cam groove on in the disc D5 shewn in Fig. 2 is used to operate the parts
for raising and lowering the parts situated in the oscillating frame. The groove
receives a roller m' carried on the end of a lever m² pivotted at m³ on the web 62
and having a lateral projection m on one side. This lever has a flexible con-
nection with a secondary lever m³ which is curved somewhat and pivotted at its
middle at m³. Its inner or rear end carries a screw m6 with which one end of a
retractile coiled spring m is connected, its other end being connected by a
screw m³ to a device for adjusting its tension. This device consists of a screw
bolt m³ engaged in a hole in the web 62, and carrying loosely on it a block m10
which also carries a guide rod ml sliding vertically through a second hole in
the web.
1
The purpose of this flexible connection between the two levers m² and m³ is
to allow the lever m³ a certain amount of independent play required by the varia-
tions in the elevation of the presser foot caused by the varying thickness of the
material operated upon. The lateral projection m on lever m² maintains the
levers m2m in their proper relative position. Either of the presser feet, accord-
ing to the work to be done, is carried adjustably with relation to the work by a
swivelling block m¹ in the outer end of the lever m³ and held in the block by a
set screw m13.
m is an adjustable guide for the upper end or shank portion of the presser
foot and is in the form of a curved arm slotted and held to the web 62 by a
set screw m15.
The cam groove o in the disc D6, Fig. 5, is used to operate the needle.
The groove receives a roller o¹ on the inner end of a connecting rod o having
its outer end jointed at 03 with the needle segment of which is held in its guide-

page_text: way by suitable retaining plates o³ as shewn in Figs. 2, 5, and 11, and carries
the curved needle oº.
The cam groove p in the disc 17 shewn in dotted lines in Fig. 4, receives a
roller p mounted on the side of a vertically reciprocating rod, preferably formed
in two parts or lengths, connected together in a similar manner to the parts e² et
of the take-up lever connecting rod, and the upper part p², which carries the
roller 2, like the part e, is forked at its upper end.
The lower part 2 of the rod has at its lower end a slot po to allow of its being
adjustably jointed (as illustrated in Figs. 12 and 13) to one arm of a lever p
pivotted on a pin p as shewn in detail in Fig. 8, which carries the tension wheel
and its operating spring, as will be hereinafter described, the other arm of this
lever is jointed to the lower end of a reciprocating bar or section p³, slotted
as at 70 to receive a block pl pivotted upon a pin p within the horn. The
upper end of carries the threader portion proper, which, as will be seen by
reference to Figs. 16, 17 and 18, consists of a pair of spring fingers 23,
carried in the upper end of 7 and adjustably fixed therein by set screws 20
The upper free ends of the fingers are formed, one 23 with an eye 216, and the
other with a hook p, the eye and hook being for the purpose of placing the
thread in the barb of the needle, the hook allowing of the withdrawal of
the thread by the needle. As a means for adjusting the threaded relatively to the
needle, adjusting screws 2,18, carried by the sides of the horn, (Fig. 17) bear
loosely upon either side of the bar 2, without in any way interfering with its
motion.
2244
The thread tension device which I prefer to use (shewn in Fig. 4 and in detail
in Fig. 8) consists of a sheave 70 mounted loosely on the pivot pin 28 of the
threader lever, and having two peripheral grooves 71, 72, the former of which
receives the thread and latter of which presents two friction faces for a friction
lever 73 (presently to be described) to bear upon.
Acting upon this sheave 70 is a nanged sleeve 7" loose on 28 and forced against
one side of the sheave by a coiled spring 7 encircling the pin and having one
end bearing against the sleeve 7" and the other end against an adjusting hand
wheel 7 screwed on the outer end of the pin, the pressure forcing the sheave 70
against a sleeve 7d similar to 7" but fixed on the pin 28.
The lever 73 is pivotted at 74 in the base of the horn and its end is connected
to the pedestal by a spring 75. A lateral shoe 76 projects from its upper side
with its edge shaped to fit the groove 72 in the sheave 70.
The lever 3 has to be acted upon by the oscillating finger e and in order
that the action may be varied and the extent to which the thread from the thread
case is drawn through the work regulated, I prefer to screw on the lever 73
an adjustable block nut 77 formed with a lateral extension 78, this nut or block
being movable along the lever in either direction.
The stationary needle guide or brace (as shewn in Figs. 1 and 3 in detail in
Fig. 15) is in the form of a finger 90, and preferably adjustably fixed to the
front of the web 62, as at 94, it projects downward and is bent inward so that its
lower end which is recessed to fit the needle engages and guides and braces it
during its operation.
The brace is slotted at 93 for retaining screw 94 to allow of vertical adjustment,
and it projects on its inside face at 95 to bear against the web and allow of
lateral adjustment by an adjusting screw 96.
Thus far I have described all the parts of the machine which are common to
and which operate the immediate parts or tools that act directly upon the work
and are interchangeable as may be desired for various kinds of characters of work
such as the McKay stitch, turned shoe" sewing, the stitching of welted work,
edge stitching and plain straight sewing, and I will first proceed to describe the
particular appliances necessary for the McKay stitch.
56
They consist of first, a work table, shewn in detail in Figs. 25 and 26 which
are perspective views respectively of the upper and under sides; it is a plate 20

page_text: of a size corresponding approximately with the nose of the horn with a plain
upper surface, perforated at 21 near one end for the passage of the needle and
having a web 22 on its under side by which it can be held in the nose of the
horn by a set screw 23 (Fig. 16). A recess 24 concentric with the hole 21 is
formed in the under side of the table to accommodate the upper end of the
threader in its operation with the needle; secondly, the presser foot, shewn in
place in Figs. 1 and 2 and in detail in Figs. 27 and 28, which is a bar 25 with
lower end 26 flattened and curved, to afford an extensive bearing surface; third,
a feed device comprising a feed dog proper, (see Figs. 1, 3 and 20) in the form
of a curved bar 27, bent with its lower end pointed to catch upon the work and
its upper end or shank 28 bearing in sleeves 16 and 17, and rigidly secured by
set screw 29 within a collar 30 having lateral fork projections 31 which engage
the outer end of the lever f³ so that vertical movement is imparted to the shank
of the feed dog.
A horn is necessary in this embodiment of my invention only because the class
of work generally done therewith, viz: sewing the sole to the upper of a boot
or shoe with the sole uppermost, requires that the threader be enclosed, to
shield it, and a sufficient space left between the stitch forming appliances and
the pedestal to allow the boot or shoe operated upon to be turned so as to run
the line of stitching around the edge of the sole. The work table is made as
small as possible to facilitate the movement of the boot or shoe about it.
I will now describe in detail, the operation of the oscillating franie in connec-
tion with the feed device, (reference being had more particularly to Figs. 1, 3,
19 and 20). When the cam groove a imparts, through the lever n² a vertical
movement to sleeve 12 and as through 14 to 15, a rocking motion is imparted to
the carrier frame n giving to the feed device which it carries the reciprocal
movement necessary to feed the work. The vertical movement neces-
sary to lower the feed device on the work and to raise it for the back
stroke, is imparted from cam groove f and levers f² and f³, the outer end of f³
being straddled by the projections of the block 31 on the bar 28, which with its
lower portion 27 constitutes the feed device.
The operation of the machine adapted to do McKay work or through-and-
through sewing is, briefly, as follows:
The presser foot is first lowered, the needle passes down through the work and
work table into the nose of the work support or horn, where the threader threads
the needle by placing the thread across its barb and by moving backward some dis-
tance (as shewn in Fig. 16) establishes a length of thread equal to the largest
thickness of the work operated on each side of the barb, and when this length
is established, the direction of movement of the threader is reversed so as to
follow the needle in its return movement, and at the same speed thus allowing
the length of thread over the needle to remain stationary so as to avoid any move-
ment of the thread across the barb of the needle as it is being drawn through
the work, the needle having drawn the thread through the work the thread
carrier, which has had imparted to it a movement downward from its normal
position as shewn in Figs. I and 11 to the position shewn in dotted lines at 1* in
Fig. 11, remains stationary until the needle rises and stops, when the carrier
is moved rearward to dotted position 2, engaging or taking the thread from the
needle and conveying it to a position 3*, to be engaged and taken by the oscillat-
ing hook around the thread case, afterwards returning to its normal position,
and following this the take-up and tension devices act upon the thread to tighten
and complete the stitch, leaving the work ready to be fed, which feeding is
effected after the presser foot rises, and then the operation just described is
repeated.
In order to adapt this machine to sew welted or turned work, the presser-
foot 53, Fig. 29, should be substituted for the presser-foot 25, the work-guide 63,
Fig. 30, substituted for the feed-device 27 and the work table 51, Fig. 31, sub-
stituted for the work-table 20. The feed device is carried by the work-table 51,

page_text: and, as will be presently set forth, is operated partly by the oscillating frame n15
and partly by a lever 60 (Figs. 34 & 35) pivotted on a bearing block 620 remov-
ably secured to the underside of the web 6 by screws 621 this lever being actuated
by means of the cam groove r, hereinbefore incidentally alluded to.
The machine aranged to sew welted work and the appliances for that are illus-
trated in Figs. 29, 30, 31, 34, 35 and 36.
The presser foot, shown in detail in Fig. 29 consists of a shank 53 having a
narrowed foot with serrated edge 54 and it has its shank 53 set about midway
of its length in the end of lever m5, its upper end being held in the guide m¹.
The work guide has a shank 63 with its lower half flattened to give to it.
certain resiliency and curved at 63" to accommodate the feed device so that its
rounded end is close to the needle. The work guide is carried in the sleeve from
which it receives a vertical reciprocal movement, a horizontal reciprocal move-
ment being imparted by means of sleeves 1617 (in which the shank or bar 63
is freely engaged) by the vertically oscillating carrier frame n15.
The work guide has a horizontal and vertical reciprocal movement imparted to
it in order that it may not interfere with the feeding of the work but may
accompany and hold the work until the presser foot relieves it, and it then returns
to its normal position, the resiliency of the guide allowing it to hold the work
firmly without marking it.
To enable this work guide to serve also as a welt guide when "welted work"
is being stitched, a thin strip 66, with an inwardly turned free end, is fixed to
the side of the lower flattened portion 63" by set screws 67 and in order that
different widths of welt can be guided, I provide an adjustable gauge consisting
of a piece of wire bent to form a triangle 68 with finger extension 69 so that its
apex end fits around and is guided on one of the screws 67 while the base end, is
wide enough to allow of play about the other screw sufficient for adjustment.
This gauge is preferably situated between the flattened end 63ª of the work
guide and the welt guide 66, the latter serving to clamp it in position with the
finger extension 69, projecting into the passage or space through which the welt
passes between the two guides.
When a narrower welt is to be used, than that illustrated, the screws 67, 67
are loosened and the lower end of the gauge 68 is moved towards the right
(Fig. 34) which causes the finger 69 to project further down into the welt pas-
sage and diminish it to the required width to exactly accommodate the welt.
For wider welt the gauge is moved in the opposite direction, thus widening the
passage.
The channel guide 50 is integral with the work-table 51, fixed over the open
nose of the horn at by means of a web 52 extending over the left hand side of
the nose of the horn and attached by screws 52ª. A notch 52 is cut in the side
of the plate 51 to accommodate. the needle of and a feeding awl (to be presently
described), and two upwardly projecting bearings 52° are formed on the top of
the plate.
The feed device consists of a awl 55 held by a plate 56 in a segment 56 form-
ing one end of a sleeve 57 mounted loosely upon a spindle 58 held rigidly in the
bearings 52° on the plate 51. This sleeve is shorter than the spindle to allow it
to slide along it, an oscillatory and horizontal reciprocal movement being
imparted to the awl 55. The oscillatory movement is obtained by means of a
toothed segment 59 on the end of the sleeve 57 opposite to that upon which the
awl segment is formed. With this toothed segment gears the toothed outer end
of the lever 60 pivotted upon the removable bearing block 620 fixed to the web b
by screws 62, the inner end of the lever 60 carries a roller engaged in the cam
groover in the outer face of the disc D³. The horizontal reciprocal movement is
imparted by the rocking carrier frame n15 through a rod n having its lower
end forked to straddle the spindle 58 and bear in a slot 57 in sleeve 57.
This rod is retained rigidly by a set screw in the rigid sleeve n¹ upon the rear
side of sleeve 17, and a portion a, shown in detail in Fig. 37 of the right hand

page_text: side of the nose of the horn at is removed to allow of the working of the awl 55
and its carrying parts.
The operation of the machine when thus arranged is briefly, as follows:-
The lasted and channeled boot or shoe to be stitched is placed in such a position,
shown in Fig. 35, that the channel guide 50 enters the channel in the work and
the upper of the boot or shoe is caused to bear against the exterior of the welt
guide 66, the position of the boot also enabling it to receive the welt which is
retained by the guide 66.
Upon the machine being started the awl 55 is inserted into the work a distance
· sufficient to afford a firm hold, by cam and intermediate connections, the work
being then fed by the rocking frame n through the rod 17, while the lower
end 63 of the work guide and with it the welt guide 66 at the same time is caused
to accompany the work. The presser foot is then lowered, so as to hold the work,
to allow the work guide to return to its normal position and the awl to be with-
drawn while the needle is being inserted, which now happens. The rest of the
operation is the same as that previously described as the threader next threads the
needle, the needle draws the thread through the work and the thread carrier
engages the thread and conveys it to a position to be taken by the oscillating hook
partially around the thread case, after which it is acted upon by the take-up and
tension devices to tighten and complete the stitch, the presser foot being then
raised and the operation either repeated, or if the boot or shoe is completed, to
allow it to be removed, after the work guide has been raised by the handle n27.
When turned shoes in which no welts are used, are to be stitched on this
machine, the entire operation is the same, but the welt guide can remain in
position as it does not interfere in any way with the operation of sewing such
turned boots or shoes.
My object in providing a removeable portion of the horn is to enable the horn
to be completely closed up when being used for doing what is known as McKay
work or through and through sewing.
As will be seen from the foregoing, this machine when arranged for sewing
welted or turned work, besides having the advantage of a comparatively small
number of operating parts to make a two-thread lock stitch, enables a two-thread
lock-stitch to be employed in sewing welted or turned work and always allows the
upper or exposed portion of the stitch to be in full view of the operator, which
is important.
In order to adapt the machine to do edge stitching the presser-foot 38 should be
substituted for the presser foot 53, the work-table 32 substituted for the work-
table 51, and the feed-device 27, substituted for the work guide 63, to work in
conjunction with the awl 55 as will be hereinafter set forth.
The machine as arranged to do edge stitching and the appliances appertaining
thereto are illustrated in Figs. 32 33, 35 and 39.
The presser-foot (Fig. 32) has a shank 38 with a narrowed and flattened foot 39
notched at 39 to allow of parts of the foot being close to the needle and on opposite
sides of it while a groove 48 is formed along its underside to accommodate the
stitching beneath it and so avoid any chance of flattening or wearing such
stitching.
The foot portion 39 is tapered in order that it may bear over the stitch and at
the same time be raised and lowered while the sole is being stitched without inter-
fering with either the upper or the stitches.
The work table (Fig. 33) consists of a plate 32 the dimensions of which depend 5
upon the manner in which the work is held while being stitched as for instance,
if the boot or shoe is to be held with the tread uppermost, the forward portion 32"
of the table has to be shortened so as to accommodate the upper of the boot or
shoe, and at the same time, act as a work guide.
I prefer however, to hold the boot or shoe to be stitched with the tread of the 5
sole downward as shown in full lines in Fig. 39 in which case either the side of

page_text: the foot portion 39 of the presser-foot acts as a work guide or a readily removable
work guide (to be hereinafter described) can be provided and the work table 32
can be considerably enlarged (as shown in Fig. 33) for a purpose to be hereinafter
set forth. The work table is preferably secured over the open nose of the horn at
by means of a web 52 extending over the left band side of the nose of the horn
and attached by screws 52ª, an opening 52b is cut through the plate 32 to accom-
modate the needle of and the perforating awl 55.
The adjustable readily removable stationary work guide that I prefer to use
if it is desired to keep the work from touching the presser-foot, consists of a
plate 60 slotted as at 61 to receive a retaining screw 62 which takes into the
work table 32, the bearing edge of this guide being bent upward and outward
at 63 to provide a space to accommodate the edge of the sole and allow the for-
wardly projecting portion of the guide to bear upon the upper of the boot or shoe.
The awl 55 when edge stitching is done must project out of its segment a
sufficient distance to allow it to pass through the work, which is readily done by
loosening the retaining plate and drawing the awl out the required distance.
The operation of the machine arranged as just described, to do edge stitching is,
briefly as follows:-
The feed dog 27 is first raised by handle n27, and the boot or shoe placed upon
the work table with the upper bearing preferably against the forwardly project-
ing portion 63 of work guide 60. The feed dog 27 is then lowered by handle n27
and holds the work against displacement until the presser-foot relieves it.
Upon the machine being started the awl or perforator 55 is passed through the
work sufficiently far to project upward a short distance in front of the end of the
feed dog 27 to allow the dog to bear against the end of the awl in order that the
work may be fed by the dog without its being inserted into the work, besides
also affording a firm hold upon the work to be fed, at the same time not disfiguring
the surface of the work. The work is then fed by the feed dog 27, the awl at
the same time being caused to accompany it.
The presser-foot is then lowered, the awl withdrawn, the needle inserted, the
threader threads the needle, the needle draws the thread through the work and
the thread carrier engages the thread and conveys it to a position to be taken by
the oscillating hook partially around the thread case, after which it is acted upon
by the take-up and tension devices to tighten and complete the stitch the presser-
foot being then raised and the operation either repeated, or if the stitching of the
edge of the boot or shoe is completed, to allow it to be removed, to do which the
feed dog 27 is preferably first raised by handle n²7.
As will be seen from the foregoing, when the machine is arranged for doing
edge stitching, besides having the advantage of a comparatively small number of
operating parts to make a two-thread lock-stitch it allows an operator to stitch
the edge of the sole of a boot or shoe with either side uppermost.
By using the work table of extended width and length (shown in Fig. 33) plain
straight sewing, such as sewing belting, harness or the like, can be done as readily
as edge stitching and finer work such as the stitching of uppers can be done
equally well by simply dispensing with the awl and preferably the adjustable
work guide which are readily removable, or the forked rod 117 can be removed
by loosening its retaining screw, and the feed dog 27 can be lowered to engage the
work, in which case the awl is simply inserted into and withdrawn from the work
and does not assist in feeding, which is then done entirely by the feed dog 27.
I find the swinging feed desirable in instances where the work cannot readily be
turned although it will be rarely required except when McKay work or through-
and-through sewing is being done.
By providing a machine adapted to do McKay or through-and-through sewing,
the stitching of welted or turned work and edge stitching, besides a variety of
plain sewing, the necessity of owning a number of different machines for the
manufacture of boots and shoes is obviated, and furthermore owing to the

page_text: simplicity of the construction of my machine and the small number of its parts,
whatever work it may be arranged to perform, a greater amount of work can be
done in a given time than has been possible heretofore, when a separate machine
has been used for each kind of work.....
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of this invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I claim in
respect of wax thread sewing machines is:-
1. The combination of a stationary horn.with the frame, appliances acting upon
the work and carrier mechanism comprising a frame projecting laterally from the
standard and a carrier. frame pivotally connected with the said frame, the
appliances being situated in the carrier frame, and means consisting of a cam,
lever, slide and link connection for imparting a rocking motion to the carrier
frame and a reciprocating movement to the appliance therein, substantially as
described.
.
2. The combination with the frame, the driving.shaft, the disc D³ having cam
groove n and disc D2 having cam-groove f, an appliance acting upon the work,
a main lever and a secondary lever, the main lever having its inner end con-
nected with the cam groove.f and its outer end engaging beneath the secondary
lever, a yielding .connection between the levers, and the secondary
lever projecting forward to engage and impart a vertical reciprocating movement
to the said appliance, a carrier mechanism for the appliance a lever having its
inner end operatively connected with the cam grooven and its outer end connected
with the carrier mechanism and imparting through it a horizontal reciprocal
movement to the appliance, substantially as described.
3. The combination of an oscillating hooked needle, a stationary thread case,
an oscillating thread hook, and a threader, with their carrying and operating parts
and an oscillating and reciprocating thread carrier and means for oscillating it
and means for reciprocating it substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
4. The combination of the frame, the driving shaft, the cam grooves in
discs D3 D4 a thread carrier having a hooked end temporarily holding the thread,
a guided horizontal rod, the outer end of which holds the carrier and the inner
end receives horizontal motion from the cam groove in disc D a pinion fixed on
the rod, and a lever having one end moved by the cam groove in disc D³ and the
other end having a rack gearing with the pinion so as to cause oscillation of the
rod, substantially as, and for the purpose set forth.
5. The combination with the web or frame, and the driving shaft of a disc
mounted on the shaft and having a cam groove in its face a lever having its inner
end worked by the cam groove and the outer end provided with a toothed rack,
a thread case resting on a ledge of the frame, a bracket arm projecting in front
of the thread case and an oscillating hook for carrying the needle thread round
the case, said hook being supported by the bracket arm and having a pinion
gearing with the rack substantially as described.
6. The combination of the frame, and the driving shaft, a disc on the shaft
having a cam groove in its face; a lever, the inner end of which is moved by
the cam groove and the other end of which has a toothed rack, a bracket arm
on which oscillates a thread-carrying hook having a pinion gearing with said
rack substantially as described.
7. The combination of the frame, of a supporting ledge formed on it, a thread
case resting on the ledge, a bracket arm projecting in front of the thread case.
a movable thread-carrying hook supported by the bracket arm, a disc mounted
on the shaft with a cam groove in its face, a lever the inner end of which is
worked by the cam groove and the outer end has a toothed rack, a pinion con-
nected with the thread-carrying hook and gearing with the rack, and a retaining
device in the form of a bell crank pivotted to the lever and having an arm
partially encircling the thread case substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

page_text: 8. The needle threader presenting two thread carrying parts separated to
receive the needle between them and adjustable laterally and longitudinally, with
means for operating the threader.
9. The needle threader formed of a pair of yieldingly adjustable thread
carrying fingers spread apart to receive the needle between them.
10. A needle threader formed of a pair of fingers immovable during the opera-
tion relatively to each other one of which has an eye through which the thread
is passed and in which it is permanently retained and the other a hook in which
the thread is temporarily retained substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
11. The combination of the frame, the driving shaft, the disc having cam
groove therein and the horn or work support, the threader mounted in the nose
of the horn, a vertical reciprocating rod worked by the cam groove, a lever
pivotted in the horn with one arm of which the rod is connected and a single
reciprocating bar supported in the horn one end of which bar is connected with
the other arm of the lever and the opposite end carrying the threader substan-
tially as set forth.
12. The combination of the frame, the driving shaft, the disc having cam
groove therein and the horn or work support, of the threader mounted in the
nose of the horn, a vertical reciprocating rod worked by the cam groove, a lever
pivotted in the horn with one arm of which the rod is adjustably connected and a
single reciprocating bar supported in the horn, one end of which bar is connected
with the other arm of the lever, and the opposite end carrying the threader, as
set forth.
13. The combination of the frame, the driving shaft, the disc having cam
groove and the horn or work support, a vertically reciprocating rod having its
upper end directly connected with the cam groove, a single bell-crank lever
having one arm slotted and carrying a laterally projecting pin adjustable along
the slot, the rod having a hole at its free end to receive the pin, and the other
arm being curved to enter and work in the horn and carrying a thread sheave,
for the purpose set forth.
14. The combination of the stitch forming appliances consisting of a curved
needle, a threader, a thread carrier, a thread case and a thread carrying hook, a
tension and a take-up and means for operating these a clamping device consist-
ing of a lever having one end pivotted in the horn and the other end yieldingly
connected to the pedestal, the lever having a projection acted upon by the take-
up mechanism for the purpose set forth.
15. The combination of the single integral take-up lever, its actuating
mechanism and the thread sheave of a tension device, a clamping lever pivotted
near the sheave having an adjustable block thereon and exerting a yielding
pressure upon the sheave, and a rod or finger carried by and projecting from the
take-up lever to act upon said adjustable block and disengage the clamping
lever from the thread sheave, and means for causing the clamping lever to exert
the yielding pressure, for the purpose set forth.
16. The combination of stitch forming appliances, a work support and a
presser foot, in the form of a bar with lower flattened bearing end horizontally
and semi-circularly curved, this presser foot being vertically and laterally adjust-
able substantially as described.
17. In combination with the web or the machine head, the main and secondary
levers for operating the presser foot, an adjustable yielding support for the inner
end of the secondary lever carried by said web and means of actuating the lever
substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
18. In combination with the web or the machine head the main and secondary
levers for operating the presser foot and yielding support for the inner end of the
secondary lever, an adjustable screw carried by the web and connected to one
end of the yielding support, and means of actuating the lever substantially as
and for the purpose set forth.
19. In combination with the web or frame of the machine head, the driving

page_text: shaft and disc with cam groove a main lever having one end worked by the cam
groove and its other end pivotted to the frame, a secondary lever also pivotted
to the frame, a yielding support for the inner end of the secondary lever and a
presser foot carried by the outer end of the secondary lever substantially as
described.
20. In combination with the frame and the lever carrying the presser foot,
a swivelling block mounted in the outer carrying end of the lever with a hole
to receive the presser foot, a set screw passing through such block to secure the
presser foot, and means for retaining the parts in position substantially as
described.
21. In combination with the frame and the lever carrying the presser foot, a
swivelling block mounted in the outer carrying end of the lever with a hole
to receive the presser foot, a set screw passing through such block to secure the
presser foot and an adjustable guide for retaining the parts in position.
22. The combination of the frame and the standard c thereon, a feed device,
carrier mechanism therefor comprising a horizontally swinging frame jointed to
said standard, a carrier frame jointed to the swinging frame and means for setting
the swinging frame in a fixed position and freeing it therefrom; the feed device
being situated in the carrier frame, and means consisting of a sleeve 12 movable
upon the standard, a link connection between the sleeve and the carrier frame, a
cam operated lever for actuating the sleeve and a cam operated lever with a con-
nection between it and said feed device for respectively imparting a rocking
motion to the carrier frame and a reciprocating movement to the feed device
therein substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
23. The combination of the frame, a standard thereon, feed device, carrier
mechanism comprising a horizontally swinging frame jointed to said standards, a
carrier frame jointed to the swinging frame and means for holding the swinging
frame stationary and freeing it; the feed device being in the carrier frame, and
means for imparting a rocking motion to the carrier frame and a reciprocating
movement to the feed device and a stationary horn carrying operating parts
substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
24. The combination of the frame, the standard e thereon, feed devices carrier
mechanism comprising a horizontally swinging frame jointed to the standard
a carrier frame jointed to the swinging frame, a notched plate and spring
operated latch with handle for holding the swinging frame and freeing it; the
feed device being situated in the carrier frame, and means for imparting a rock-
ing motion to the carrier frame and a reciprocating movement to the feed device
therein and a stationary horn carrying operating parts substantially as and for
the purpose set forth.
25. The combination of the frame and the driving shaft and a presser foot
consisting of a shank and a foot portion having its lower edge serrated the shank
being carried about midway of its length in the end of a lever worked by a cam,
the upper end of the shank being held in an adjustable sleeve and means for
adjusting the position of the sleeve substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
26. The combination of the frame, the work support, a standard on the frame,
a laterally projecting frame carried by the standard, a rocking frame jointed
to the laterally projecting frame, a sleeve movable upon the standard, a link
connecting the sleeve and the rocking frame, a cam worked lever imparting to
the sleeve a rocking motion to the rocking frame, an oscillating awl carrier con-
sisting of a sleeve having an awl carrying segment made in one with it the sleeve
being carried loosely upon a spindle mounted in bearings carried by the work
support, an operative connection between the awl carrier and the rocking frame,
and means for imparting an oscillatory movement to the awl carrier substantially
as and for the purpose set forth.
27. The combination of needle threading mechanism removable stationary
work table over the threading mechanism and having a rigid channel guide
integral with its front edge: substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

page_text: 28. The combination of needle threading mechanism, a stationary work table
secured over it and having a channel guide integral with its front edge an
extension from the rear side of the table and two upwardly projecting bearings
for the purpose set forth.
29. The combination of the frame, the work support, a guiding spindle on the
frame, a frame projecting laterally from the guiding spindle, a rocking frame
jointed to the laterally projecting frame, a sleeve movable upon the guiding
spindle, a link connection between the sleeve and the rocking frame, a cam
worked lever for rocking the sleeve and frame, a work guide consisting of a
shank having its lower half flattened and its lower end rounded, the work
guide being carried by the rocking frame and a cam worked lever pivotted on
the frame of the machine and with its front end connected to the work guide, for
the purpose set forth.
30. The combination of the frame, the work support, a guiding spindle on
the frame, a swinging frame jointed to the guiding spindle, a rocking frame
jointed to the swinging frame, a sleeve movable upon the guiding spindle,
a link connecting the sleeve and the rocking frame, a cam worked lever rocking
the sleeve and rocking frame, a work guide carried by the rocking frame and
means for imparting a vertical reciprocal movement to the work guide, for the
purpose set forth.
31. The combination of the frame, the work support, a guiding spindle on
the frame, a swinging frame jointed to the guiding spindle, a rocking frame
jointed to the swinging frame, a sleeve movable upon the guiding spindle a
link connecting the sleeve to the rocking frame, a cam worked lever rocking
the sleeve and rocking frame, a work guide consisting of a shank having its
lower half flattened and its lower end rounded, the work guide being carried by
the rocking frame and a cam worked lever pivotted on the frame of the machine
and having its front end operatively connected to the work guide, for the purpose
set forth.
32. The vertically and horizontally reciprocating work guide consisting of
a shank having its lower half flattened and its lower end rounded and means for
carrying and operating it for the purpose set forth.
33. A vertically and horizontally reciprocating work guide consisting of a
shank having its lower half flattened and having a strip fixed at one end to the
flattened portion and having its other end turned or bent inward and an adjust-
able gauge consisting of a piece of wire bent to form a triangle with finger
extension placed between the strip and the flattened portion and means for carrying
and operating the work guide substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
34. The combination of the frame, a standard thereon a work guide, a rod
and carrier mechanism comprising an extension projecting laterally from the
standard and a carrier frame pivotally connected with the laterally projecting
frame, the rod being situated in the carrier frame an awl and its carrier operatively
connected to the rod, means for oscillating the awl carrier and rocking the
pivoted carrier frame, for the purpose set forth.
35. A combined reciprocating work guide and feed mechanism, consisting of
a guiding spindle on the frame of the machine, a frame projecting laterally from
the guiding spindle, a rocking frame jointed to the projecting frame, a sleeve
movable upon the guiding spindle, a link connecting the sleeve to the rocking
frame, a cam worked lever rocking the frame, the work guide consisting of a
shank having its lower half flattened and its lower end rounded this guide being
carried by the rocking frame, a cam worked lever having its front end connected
to the work guide, an awl and an oscillating awl carrier consisting of a
sleeve having a toothed and an awl carrying segment, one at each end of the
sleeve which is engaged by the lower end of the rod carried by the rocking
frame, and a cam worked lever having its front end widened and toothed and
gearing with the toothed segment of the awl carrier, for the purpose set forth.
36. In the machine modified for doing edge stitching or the like, the com-

page_text: bination of a frame and stitch forming appliances, a presser foot having a
narrowed and flattened foot, feed mechanism comprising a carrier frame jointed
to the frame of the machine, the fed device being situated in the carrier frame,
and a perforating device, means for operating the presser-foot, means for operat-
ing the perforating device and means for rocking the carrier frame and means for
reciprocating the feed device for the purpose set forth.
37. In the modified machine the combination of a frame and stitch forming
appliances, a presser-foot, feed mechanism comprising a carrier frame jointed to
the frame of the machine, the feed device being situated in said carrier frame,
and a perforating device consisting of an oscillating and horizontally reciprocating
awl adjustable relatively to the needle, means for operating the presser foot
means for operating the perforating device, means for rocking the carrier frame,
and means for reciprocating the feed device for the purpose set forth.
38. The combination of the frame, and stitch forming appliances consisting of
a needle, a thread carrier, a thread case, a thread hook, a needle threader, a
tension device, a clamping device, a take-up, a presser-foot, feed mechanism
comprising a carrier frame jointed to the frame of the machine, the feed device
being situated in the carrier frame, and a perforating device consisting of an
oscillating and horizontally reciprocating awl and means for operating the
presser-foot, and perforating device, and for imparting a rocking motion to the
carrier frame and a reciprocating movement to the feed device, for the purpose
set forth.
39. The combination of the frame, and stitch forming appliances, consisting of
a needle, a thread carrier, a thread case, a thread hook, a needle threader, a
tension device, a clamping device, a take-up, a presser-foot, feed mechanism
comprising a standard upon the frame of the machine, an extension or frame
projecting laterally from the standard and motionless during the feeding
operation and a carrier frame jointed to the laterally projecting frame, the feed
device being connected in the carrier frame, and a perforating device, and
means for operating the presser-foot, and perforating device, and for rocking
the carrier frame and reciprocating the fed device therein, for the purpose set
forth.
'
40. In the machine modified for doing edge stitching or the like, the com-
bination of a frame and stitch forming appliances, a readily removable presser-
foot, feed mechanism comprising a carrier frame jointed to the frame of the
machine and a feed device in the carrier frame, a perforating device consisting
of an oscillating horizontally reciprocating adjustable awl, and a readily remov
able work table having an adjustable readily removable work guide and means
for operating the presser-foot and perforating device and for rocking the carrier
frame and reciprocating the feed device therein, for the purpose set forth.
41. In the modified machine for doing edge stitching or the like, the com-
bination of a frame and stitch forming appliances, a presser foot, feed mechanism
and a perforating device and means for operating the presser foot, feed mechanism
and perforating device substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
1
law of Luly 1800
ABEL & IMRAY,
Agents for the Applicant.