IMPROVEMENTS IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF STUDS OR BUTTONS.
Year: 1872

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Edward Griffith Brewer, of 89, Chancery Lane,
-
in the County of Middlesex, Patent Agent, for the Invention of
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF STUDS OR BUTTONS.".
A com-
munication from abroad by Charles Denis Segoffin, of 2, Rue Sainte
Appoline, Paris, France.
Sealed the 28th March 1873, and dated the 2nd October 1872.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Edward Griffith Brewer
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition,
on the 2nd October 1872.
I, EDWARD GRIFFITH BREWER, of 89, Chancery Lane, in the County
of Middlesex, Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature of the said
Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF STUDS OR BUTTONS,” (a
communication to me from abroad by Charles Denis Segoffin, of 2, Rue
Sainte Appoline, Paris, France), to be as follows:-
-
This Invention refers to improvements in the lower part or shoe of
studs or double buttons in order to allow of their easy introduction
without tumbling the linen or other material to be united, while at the
same time these studs are firmly secured to the material and without
there being any chance of their getting out and being lost.

page_text: The improvements are applicable to all kinds of studs, that is, to studs
of varying sizes of any shape; they can be applied to any purpose for
which studs are or can be used, and they may be made of any suitable
material.
Figures 1, 2, 3, and 4, Sheet 1 of the annexed Drawings, are views of t
a button or stud made according to one arrangement; Fig. 1 being an
elevation, and Fig. 2 being a view of the under side of what may be
called a sliding button; these two views shew it in the position ready to
be inserted in the button hole; and Figs. 3 and 4 the position of the
sliding piece c when the button is inserted and fixed in the button hole. 1
This button is composed of a part a, which may be of any shape, of any
size, and made in metal or of whatever material desired; it carries fixed
at the bottom a metal portion 6, of a flat form, as the dotted lines in
Figs. 2 and 4 further shew; this part is bent or knee shaped at 6' in
such manner as to receive the piece c, which is also folded or bent so
that a portion may be continued into the part 6', where it slides, always
having a certain amount of thickness below 6' in order to give strength
to the piece c, which can slide into that of 6', and so to assume the
position shewn at Figs. 1 and 2, or that shewn at Figs. 3 and 4.
Figures 5 and 6 are two views of another kind of button in the
required position for placing it in the button holes; and Figures 7 and 8
shew the same button when it is inserted in the said button holes and
secured. This button is composed of the part a, under which the rod d
is fixed which is made in a piece with the part d'; another picce e is
provided with a flat part above and near the rod d, and this flat portion :
is made in a picce with a part c¹ which can be placed as shewn in Figs. 5
and 6 to introduce it into the button holes where the flat portion of the
piece c is held, and by turning the rod d by means of the button a the
part is put in the position seen in Figs. 7 and 8, and the button is
perfectly secure.
Figures 9, 10, 11 and 12, shew four views of an arrangement
analogous with the preceding. To the button a is fixed the round wire
rod f, the end ƒ of which is at right angles to the rod fand bent
together; around the rod f there is a flat part f* held in such manner to
this that it can be held by the two sides of the button hole, whereby the
rod when turning by the button a allows the part f¹ to go into the
position indicated in Figs. 11 and 12. With these arrangements springs
may be used with slight stops more or less adjustable to hold. the

page_text: -
movable picces in any position it may be desired to assign to them. This
kind of improved construction of button is applicable to all studs, that is,
to those of all sizes and shapes intended for any purpose, and they may
be made of any suitable or desirable material. Studs or double buttons
may also be made according to this Invention with one or two branches,
and of the kind shewn at Sheet 2. Figures 1, 2, and 3,, shew threć
views of a button i made according to this part of the Invention.
The two ends & forming the shoe are introduced one after the other
into the button holes, then a quarter of a turn is given to both and the
button is perfectly secure.
Figures 4, 5, and 6 shew,three views of an arrangement analogous to
the foregoing with two different forms, but substantially similar.
Figures 7 and 8 shew two views of another arrangement of stud inade
substantially on the same principle. In these different views it must be
understood that it is optional whether these buttons are made with one
or two branches or stems, but always with two extreme projecting parts
as i².
These new buttons may also be used with neckties, cravats, or scarfs;
one great advantage of this latter construction is to be able to make
studs or double buttons of a single piece without solder, while all kinds
of plates may be applied to the top of the button. These studs may be
gilded, engraved, enamelled, in fact produced and sold at a moderate
price if desired, or they may be made as rich or precious as desired; they
may be made as the others in any material, and their elasticity allows
them to close more or less, and thereby to adapt themselves to the size
of the button holes to which they may be applied.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Edward Griffith Brewer in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 2nd April 1873.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, EDWARD
GRIFFITH BREWER, of 89, Chancery Lane, in the County of Middlesex,
Patent Agent, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Second day. of October, in the year of

page_text: our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-two, in the thirty-
sixth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give
and grant unto me, the said Edward Griffith Brower, Her special
licence that I, the said Edward Griffith Brewer, my exccutors, adminis-
trators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Edward Griffith Brewer,
my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree.
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter
during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make,
use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain
and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF STUDS OR BUTTONS (a communi-
cation to me from abroad by Charles Denis Segoffin, of 2, Rue Sainte
Appoline, Paris, France), upon the condition (amongst others) that I,
the said Edward Griffith Brewer, my executors or administrators, by
an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and
seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said
Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause
the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar
months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
"
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Edward Griffith Brewer, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same
is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement, reference being had to the accompanying
Drawings, and to the letters of reference marked thereon, that is to
say:―
This Invention consists in certain improvements as hereafter described
applied to the lower part or to the shoe of buttons or studs in order to
admit of their easy introduction in and removal from the linen or other
material to which they may be applied without tumbling the same, and
in such manner that there is no fear of the studs getting out of the
material and being lost.
These improvements are applicable to all kinds of studs, that is to say,
to those studs of all sizes and of any shape; they are applicable to any
purpose for which studs are or can be used, and they may be made of
any substance or suitable material, or materials of extreme simplicity, or
in the richest or most costly manner.
The annexed Drawings illustrate some examples of studs constructed
nononding to thin Towanda.

page_text: Figures 1 to 4 are views of a button a, which may be of any desired
size, form, or material suitable for a button. Figure 1 is an elevation;
and Figure 2 is a view of the under side with the shoe in the position
necessary for its introduction into the button holes. Figures 3 and 4
are two similar views of the said button, but with the shoe put in the
position required for the button to be held in the button holes. It will
be seen that this button a is provided with one of these new shoes con-
structed according to this Invention, being composed of a part 6 which
is soldered, rivetted, connected, or fastened in any suitable manner to the
button a; this part 6 is bent, or is attached by solder or rivet to another
part 6', which is united by a rivet i to another piece c capable of making
a half turn, turning on the rivet i as a centre, and consequently can be
made to assume one or other of the positions shewn at Figures 1, 2, 3,
and 4, as desired.
It will be easily understood that the position of this shoe as seen at
Figures 1 and 2 admits of an easy introduction of the same into button
holes, and when it is thus introduced and the part c is turned the shoe
is thereby placed in the position shewn at Figures 3 and 4, and holds it
in the button holes as much as a stop; a spring or any other suitable
arrangement could be arranged to retain the piece c in the said position
seen at Figures 3 and 4, which can always be placed when desired into
the position seen at Figures 1 and 2 to withdraw the button.
Figures 5, 6, 7, and 8 are four views respectively of a similar kind of
stud to the preceding; here the part 6' of the shoe receives the sliding
piece c, with this object the edges of the part 6' are folded to clasp two
edges of the piece c which is also folded but at the ends; this arrange-
ment allows the part c of the shoe to be put in the position shewn at
Figures 5 and 6 to introduce it into the button holes, and afterwards for
the piece c to be caused to slide, as seen in Figures 7 and 8, to prevent it
from becoming disengaged from the said holes.
Figures 9, 10, 11, and 12, also shew four views respectively similar to
the four first Figures. In this arrangement the shoe is always fastened to
the button a by rivetting, solder, or otherwise; the part 6 is round, and
that marked b' is made like it, being rivetted or cut from the same piece
of metal as the stem b; the piece c is cut out flat, then bcnt, and engages
with the round part b, where it is free to turn to be placed either in the
position scen at Figures 9 and 10 in order to place the shoc with easc in

page_text: the button holes or in the position shewn at Figures 11 and 12, where
the button provided with this new shoe is securely held.
Figures 13, 14, 15, and 16 shew four views respectively similar to
the four first, and perform the same functions as the shoe shewn at
Figures 9, 10, 11, and 12, only here the shoe may be made of metal wire
flattened in different parts. The wire 6 is fixed to the button a; this
wire is round in its vertical part, the part 6' of which opposite to the
button a is made in the form of a buckle, then flattened; another part c
of this wire is also shaped and flattened, but this second part can be cut
in some thin metal and shaped, then connected to the round stem bin
such manner as to be able to receive a circular motion in order that the
piece o may be placed in the position indicated at Figures 13 and 14, or
in that shewn at Figures 15 and 16. In the first position the shoe can
be introduced into the two button holes lengthwise; in this position the
flat part c¹ of the piece c which surrounds the part 6 is taken and held:
by the two button holes in such manner that by turning the piece 6¹
with the button a it is placed across the button holes as seen in
Figures 15 and 16, in such manner that the button cannot be removed
unless the piece b' is previously brought below c', as shewn in Figures 13
and 14.
Studs or double buttons may also be made according to this Invention
of a single piece which can be employed alone or joined to a button.
Figures 16 bis, 17, and 18 are views of an example of this arrangement.
Figure 16 bis is a face view; Figure 17 is a view of the under side; and
Figure 18 is a side view; this piece c can form the button, the two
ends e¹ form the two parts of the shoe, they are introduced one after the
other into the button holes, the whole has then a quarter of a turn given
to it and the button is perfectly secure.
Figures 19 and 20 shew a face view and under side view respectively of
an arrangement analogous to the preceding, of different shapes, but made
substantially similar.
Figures 21 and 22, as well as Figures 23 and 24, shew two elevations
and two under side views of two buttons having the shoe made with
wings; by reference to Figures 21 and 22 it will be seen that the shoo
is formed with a stem f, simply divided and bent one half to the right
and the other half to the left; and in Figures 23 and 24 the two parts o
of this part of the shoe are cut of a particular shape, as shewn, then the
piece o is soldered or rivetted to the stem of the shoe.

page_text: Figures 25 and 26 shew an elevation and a view of the under side of a
button with a hooked spring shoe; it will be seen that the shoe g is
formed of a small band of metal cut and bent, then soldered or otherwise
attached to the button a; it will be easily understood that this shoe
being well engaged in the button holes cannot get out except by one or
several movements being held by the other end of the shoe.
Figures 27 and 28 shew an elevation and under side view of a button
with a double shoe, although the parts n may be full, or they may be cut,
or the edges may be rounded the under side may be slightly convex in
the form of a wax candle or grease drop flattened.
These studs with a shoe may be made with or without rivetting or
solder, and the shoes may be made of varying forms and of any con-
venient size and united to buttons of all kinds by any suitable means.
Having now described the nature of the said Invention, and in what
manner the same is to be performed, I declare that I do not limit myself
to the precise details herein-before described and shewn as the same may
to some extent be modified without departing from the Invention, but I
claim, the construction and employment of studs made on the under
side with shoes, substantially in manner herein-before described and
illustrated in the accompanying Drawings, together with any mere
modifications thereof.
In witness whereof, I, the said Edward Griffith Brewer, have here-
unto set my hand and seal, this Second day of April, in the year
of one Loud One thousand eight hundred and seventy-three
EDWP. GRIFFITH BREWER. (L.S.)