Smocking” Various Fabrics.
Year: 1888

page_text: Date of Application, 10th Feb., 1888
Complete Specification Left, 11th July, 1888
Complete Specification Accepted, 17th Aug., 188
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“Smocking” Various Fabrics.
I, CORNELIS FREDERIK ALEXANDER RÖELL of 59 Lincolns Inn Fields, in the
County of Middlesex, Jonkheer of the Kingdom of Holland, do hereby declare the
nature of this invention to be as follows:-
My invention has for its object improvements in means or apparatus employed in
pleating or "smocking" various fabrics whereby I produce a simple, cheap and
efficient form of apparatus. For this purpose.I employ a base or frame consisting of,
or provided with, parallel guides to one end of which is fixed a cross bar, whilst
a similar cross bar is mounted on such guides with capability of sliding thereon and
of being temporarily fixed thereto in any desired position.
These cross bars are each provided with a fitting to receive a removeable comb bar
which is capable of being fixed thereon in the required position by which means
comb bars of different gauges to suit different classes of work may be readily fitted to
such cross bars when required. These comb bars are formed of a series of parallel
plates fixed crosswise of the bar and they are provided with an adjusting plate
mounted on suitable guides and provided with fixing means whereby the working
depth of the combs may be regulated to the depth to which the pleating or "smocking
is to be carried. To each end of each cross bar is also adjustably fixed a screwed
upright to receive an upper comb bar formed with plates or wires capable of entering
the spaces in the first named combs which said upper comb bars are capable of being
clamped down by fly nuts.
In using the above described apparatus I first place the fabric to be pleated or
"smocked" in the combs of the two cross bars when the latter are in close proximity
to each other; in effecting this I employ a number of loose wires or narrow flat
plates or strips which I place successively in the spaces of the combs so as to carry
the fabric down with them, then when the desired width of pleating or "smocking
has been thus far arranged I apply and fix to the cross bars the upper comb bars the
01....מ

page_text: combs of which I cause to descend to the bottom of the working depth of the lower
combs, the fabric being held between them, I then remove the wires or narrow flat
plates or strips from the combs and I slide the moveable cross bar with its coacting
combs along the fabric (one end of which is held by the combs on the fixed cross bar,)
so as to extend the pleating or " smocking" to any desired length, the said moveable
bar is then fixed in position when the pleating or "smocking" may be completely
stitched whilst on the apparatus or it may be run together whilst on the apparatus
and completed after removal therefrom.
Dated this 10th day of February 1888.

page_text: Figures 10 and 11 are an elevation and a cross section of part of the fixed comb
bar.
Figures 12 and 13 are an elevation and a cross section of part of the moveable
comb bar and Figure 14 is an elevation drawn full size of parts of the moveable cross
bar and comb bar with the loose wires in position.
In all the views like parts are indicated by similar letters of reference.
According to my invention I employ a base or frame consisting of, or provided
with, parallel guides a, a, to one end of which is fixed a cross bar b, whilst a similar
cross bar b¹ is mounted on such guides a, a, with capability of sliding thereon and of
being temporarily fixed thereto in any desired position by means of pins or pegs c
which pass through holes in the cross bar 6' and into corresponding holes a¹ formed
in the guides a. Other suitable means may however be employed for temporarily
fixing the moveable cross bar b¹ to the guides a, a, in any required position.
5
1
These cross bars b. bare each provided with a fitting running longitudinally
thereof and of a dovetail cross section to receive a removeable comb bar d or d¹ 1
capable of being fixed thereon in the required position by means of plates 6 and 64,
respectively the plate 63 occupying a central position and the plates 6 6, occupying
positions on each side of the of the centre so that the cross bars b. 6¹ may be enabled
to be placed close together; other means however of fixing the removeable comb
bars d. d may be employed. By these means comb bars d. d of different gauges
to suit different classes of work may be readily fitted to such cross bars b. br when
required.
2
These comb bars d. d' are formed with a series of parallel comb plates d³ fixed
crosswise of the bars and they are provided with an adjusting plate d³ formed with
guide slots d' d' and mounted on screws d' d which serve as both the guiding and 2
fixing means whereby the working depth of the combs & may be regulated to the
depth to which the pleating or "smocking" is to be carried by simply raising or
lowering the plate das may be required.
To each end of each cross bar b. 6' is also fixed a screwed upright 66 to receive an
upper comb bar e, e², formed with comb wires or plates e³, e*, capable of entering the
spaces in the combs d, d¹ which said upper comb bars e, e¹ are capable of being
clamped down by fly nuts 6º.
In the drawings I have shown the comb bar e to be fitted with comb wires e² and
the comb bar e¹ to be fitted with comb plates e², but they may both be fitted with either
wires or plates.
In using the above described apparatus I first place the fabric to be pleated or
"smocked" in the combs d. d', when the cross bars b. bare in close proximity to
each other, as shown at Figures 1, 2, 3 the upper comb bars e. el having been
previously removed. In effecting this I employ a number of loose wires or narrow
Hat plates or strips, which I place successively in the spaces of the combs d. d¹ so as
to carry the fabric down with them, then when the desired width of pleating or
"smocking" has been thus far arranged, I apply and fix to the cross bars b, b the
upper comb bars e. e¹ the combs of which I, by turning the fly nuts 6, cause to descend
to the bottom of the working depth of the lower combs d. d' the fabric being held
between them. I then remove the loose wires a or narrow flat plates or strips from
the combs d. d, and I slide the moveable cross bar 6¹ with its coacting combs d¹ e¹
along the fabric (one end of which is held securely by the combs d e. on the fixed cross
bar b, assisted by a strip of rubber es acting against the comb bar e) so as to extend
the pleating or "smocking" to any desired length, the said moveable cross bar b' is
then fixed in position on the guides a. a. when the pleating or "smocking " may be
completely stitched whilst on the apparatus, or it may be "run" together whilst on
the apparatus and completed after removal therefrom.
I would here remark that I do not confine myself to the forms, or modes of con-
struction, of the comb bars, nor to the construction of the frame and method of
fixing the various parts together herein shown and described as such may be varied
without departing from the peculiar character of my invention.

page_text: Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. The fixed upper and lower comb bars in combination with the traversing upper
and lower comb bars substantially as herein shown and described and for the purpose
stated.
2. The upper and lower removeably fixed comb bars e, d, upper and lower sliding
comb bars ed, loose wire or plates & uprights 65, fly nuts 6 and sliding bar
substantially as herein shown and described and for the purpose stated.
3. The lower comb bars d, d', adjustable for depth of working in combination with
the upper comb bars e, e¹, substantially as herein shown and described and for the
purpose stated.