IMPROVEMENTS IN JOINING LEATHER, FLEXIBLE AND TEXTILE MATERIALS FOR THE PRODUCTION OF BOOTS AND SHOES, AND ARTICLES OF THE LIKE DESCRIPTION, AND HARNESS, STRAPPINO, BAGS, SAILS. TENT COVERS, PORTMANTEAUS, AND SUCH OTHER ARTICLES, TOGETHER WITH MACHINERY AND APPARATUS FOR THAT PURPOSE
Year: 1859

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Richard Waller, of 50, Baker Street, Portman
Square, in the County of Middlesex, Gentleman, for the Invention of
"IMPROVEMENTS IN JOINING LEATHER, FLEXIBLE AND TEXTILE MATERIALS FOR
THE PRODUCTION OF BOOTS AND SHOES, AND ARTICLES OF THE LIKE DESCRIPTION,
AND HARNESS, STRAPPINO, BAGS, SAILS. TENT COVERS, PORTMANTEAUS, AND
SUCH OTHER ARTICLES, TOGETHER WITH MACHINERY AND APPARATUS FOR
THAT PURPOSE."
Sealed the 8th September 1859, and dated the 14th March 1859.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Richard Waller at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
14th March 1859.
I, RICHARD WALLER, of 50, Baker Street, Portman Square, in the County
of Middlesex, Gentleman, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention
for "IMPROVEMENTS IN JOINING LEATHER, FLEXIBLE AND TEXTILE MATERIALS FOR
THE PRODUCTION OF BOOTS AND SHOES, AND ARTICLES OF THE LIKE DESCRIPTION, AND
HARNESS, STRAPPING. BAGS. SAILS, TENT COVERS, PORTMANTEAUS, AND SUCH OTHER
ARTICLES, TOGETHER WITH MACHINERY AND APPARATUS FOR THAT PURPOSE," to be
as follows:-
The first part of my Invention relates to what I call 'metal threads or
wires, round, square, or any other required form, and made sufficiently ductile

page_text: to suit the means for which the said metal will be used in the manufacture of
boots, shoes, or other covering for the feet. I shall use the same as follows:-
I arrange a number of tubes or guides whose bore is to suit the diameter or
form of the metal thread which has to pass through the said holes. These
tubes are fixed in a frame, and so placed as to form with their ends a face,
the whole of the tubes to form the exact shape of a boot or shoe bottom.
Each tube will require rollers or other means to give motion to the wire or
metal thread. The tubes will be wider apart at the ends the threads enter,
in order to give room for the rollers or other contrivance for pushing forward
the said wire or metal threads, and thereby giving continual supply to the
boots or shoes. The metal threads are wound round bobbins arranged on
spindles, for the purpose of more freely delivering the threads to the tubes
or guides, and through them to what I call the rivet guide. This rivet guide
is made with the same number of holes to correspond with the face of what
we will now call the tube guides, through which the metal threads are pushed
into this rivet guide. It will be now understood that the metal thread is for
the purpose of being cut to the desired lengths, and made to supersede the
present means of driving nails, pegs; rivets, brads, &c., one at a time, into
the soles of boots, shoes, or other covering for the feet. It will be also seen
that a number of boots and shoes can be made in the same time that one.
only has hitherto been produced in machines of other construction.
I will now describe the means by which I carry out my improvements
relating to the securing of the soles to the upper leathers of boots and shoes.
The metal thread tube guides are supported in a frame which is fixed in a
bracket on the bed of the machine or apparatus. The bed is made to allow
of any size of boot or shoe, and so arranged as to admit of a number at
one time.
I use iron lasts, upon which I put the upper leathers, and in that manner
they are placed in what I call the clam block; this clain block is formed of
two or more pieces, which can be bolted or wedged so as to hold firmly the
boot or shoe placed in it during the process of manufacture; the clum block
has ribs, which, are made to enter the grooves in the bed of the machine, and,
therefore, capable of sliding, the last or lasts being covered with the uppers in
the clam block with the soles upwards. I then put on the inner sole or soles;
the clam block is moved to what I call the welting slides, which are arranged
on the bed. They are made in segments and can be moved by cams, cranked
levers; or other means, the segments being adjusted ; the welting slide is then
moved and approaches the upper leathers, whose edges project until the
welting slides press-or lap them down round the last, thereby covering the

page_text: inner sole so far as it is necessary for the process; the welting slides remain
in that condition until required to be removed. The welting slides are so
formed as to fit all the sweeps of the last; they are also perforated at a proper
distance from the edge nearest the upper leathers, namely, that part of the
edge which is held down upon the inner sole, which edge is thinner and bevil-
like in shape; the perforations are also cut up to the edge like a wire guage;
the welting slides are now holding the upper leathers and the inner soles to
the bottom of the last, for the purpose of putting on the outer soles; this
being done a perforated plate, which I call a pressing plate, is placed upon
the soles, and made to press them fast together; this may also be done by
slides similar in their construction and operation to the welting slides; this
pressing plate also remains until required to be removed.
I now perforate the soles with what I call a perforator, which is an iron
block with prickers or awls fixed into it all the way round in a row or as
many rows as may be required; the perforator and the pressing plate with its
perforations correspond to the prickers or awls in the perforator; the said
prickers or awls may be made to turn round or partly to do so during the time
of pricking or perforating the soles; it will be seen that the prickers of the
perforator have to pass through the pressing plate. The perforator is now
withdrawn or taken away, and the rivet guide charged with pegs, nails, or
rivets is brought immediately over the pressing plate, the holes of both the
pressing plate and that of the rivet guide being exactly opposite to each other;
the driving block is now brought over the rivet guide, and forces the rivets
through the pressing plates into tho soles. The driving block is made with the
necessary sweeps on the under side of it suitable for this process, having pegs
projecting made to fit the holes in the rivet guide,and capable of entering the
pressing plate. It will be seen that the pegs in the driving block correspond
with the prickers or awls in the perforator, the rivet guide, and also the
pressing plate, each having the proper sweeps or curves; the driving
block is now withdrawn and the rivet guide placed to the face of the
tube guides through which the metal threads pass; the pressing plate is
also removed, and the welting slides drawn back, and this part of the process
is finished.
I arrange cutters, endless or circular saws, to cut the required lengths of
metal threads or wires; the rollers or other motions push into the rivetguide,
the rivet guide being so adjusted that the distance between the face of the.
tube guides is such as to admit the cutter or cutters to pass between them,
and thus cuts the required lengths which are left in the rivet guides. It will
be seen that the rivet guides having received again its charge of rivets, is,

page_text: again ready for a fresh supply of boots or shoes. The whole of the motions
are actuated by levers or screws, and may be done by hand labor, steam, or
any other power.
I now take the boots or shoes to undergo the process of being heeled,
which process is similar to that above described in the making up of the
heel; that being done I then fix the heel by scrows or other means to the
boot or shoe from the inside of the boot or the outer part thereof.
The boots or shoes are now ready for finishing, which can be done by
machinery. I use a spiral cutter, which is mado to move round each boot
or shoe; the cutter is made to revolve at the required speed by means of a
pulley, whose strap or belt is connected with any convenient part of the
apparatus or machine in motion; this cutter, which may be made of any
other suitable form, is for the purpose of smoothing the sides of the heels
and the soles; a suitable paste or die is then put on with a sponge, which
has the property of blacking the leather; after which a moveable burnisher
is made to work in the same frame in which the spiral cutter or shaver
inoves, and by a suitable motion being given to it performs the operation
burnishing; it is well known that this process requires some warmth, the
warntli being produced by means of hot air, water, or steam being conveyed
into the handle of the burnisher, which will be sufficient for the process of
obtaining a polish; the small quantity of moisture necessary will be supplied
by a small piece of sponge or other suitable material kept moist by means
of water dripping as required from a can or other vessel.
I cut the soles by means of a blade or blades of peculiar curves arranged
for the sake of economy, from which tool or cutter the soles are conveyed to
suitable troughs of liquid for the purpose of being steeped or saturated, this
process being necessary before submitting the leather to beating or pressure.
These troughs are composed of iron, either cast or wrought, and means
arranged convenient for putting in the soles and for applying machinery and
puinps. I have chambers in which I lay the soles and hools in tiers, with
divisions made of pieces of wood or other porous material, and by means of
pumps I force water or other liquid through the leather, which falls into the
chamber beneath, or I fill the chamber in which the soles and heels are
placed with water or other liquid, and I exhaust from the under chamber the
air, and the water percolates from the upper chamber in consequence of the
vacuum thus caused. This process is accomplished by exhausting pumps in
the usual way. I attach a glass guage on the outside connected with the
upper and lower chambers with proper stop-cocks and valves to prevent the
communication, of the two chambers, so that the operator may know when the

page_text: water has passed from the upper to the lower chamber; that heing done, the
chambers are opened, and soles and heels are removed to a platform connected
with the press, rollers, or beaters. The soles are then passed through the
rollers or under the beaters, or subjected to the action of the press.
I need not describe the rollers, but it may be necessary to shew how I
perform the beating of the soles by means of beaters so as to produce the
same result which has hitherto been produced by the ancient process of the
hammer and lapstone. I arrango an axle with projected lugs or pegs at
certain intervals; I also arrange small axles upon which I place shafts; on
the long part of the shafts I fix hammers. I have a bed upon which I have
a moveable platform sufficiently strong for the purposes above described. I
give notion to the axle, the lugs or projectious on the said axle coming in
contact with the short end of the hammer shaft, lifts the hammer to the
desired angle; and as the lug or projection leaves the short end of the hammer
shaft, the hammer will fall by its own weight, and produce the effect required.
The soles and heels prepared by this or any other process are removed to receive
their requisite shape to the molder, which will be described hereafter. The
soles which are prepared by the rollers are also taken to the molder.
I now proceed to describe the press. The press is formed in the usual
way, either with a bracket or other description of frame rising from the bed or
pedestal, and made sufficiently strong. The process of pressing is done either
by screw or lever. A flat die, the shape of the sole or heel, is fixed in the
usual way, and is made to comedown upon a block capable of revolving, and
upon which the sole or heel is either put by hand, or by means of a certain
motion to be obtained by the rising and falling of the shaft slide or spindle in
which the die is fixed. The revolving block is provided with a chamber in
which a moveable plate is fitted; spiral springs keep the plate flush with the
rim or outer edge of the chamber or sides of the block. The plate is allowed
to sink about the thickness of the sole within the rim when pressed; the rim
above named is to prevent the sole spreading in consequence of the pressure,
the die being made to fit the space which the rim surrounds. As the die
doscends the block turns round to deliver the sole or heel already pressed to
the molder; the upper part or cover of the molder receives the sole and places
it in the mold, which motion is given by incans of an eccentrix or otherwise.
The sole is then removed from the mold, and placed so as to become suffi-
ciently dry, when they are then ready to proceed with in the manuer before
described.
Instead of using what I have called metal thread for making brads or
rivets, &c., I have sheets of metal which can be so placed in a frame, that

page_text: cuttors or dies operate and produce the required lengths or forms of brads.or
rivets, &c. For this purpose the dies are arranged upon a strong iron bed in
the usual way; punches or cutters are arranged opposite to the dies, and as
soon as the punch or cutter has operated, the nails or rivets so cut are pushed.
into small tube guides in the same manner as the process already described in
relation to the metal thread, with this difference, that the tube guides are put
together like a chain wound round the drum of a watch. It is necessary that.
this chain or tube guide should fold into the shape of a sole of a boot or shoe,
and capable of being made to open.out again by the following process :-
The sheet of metal being flat, the dies or cutters operate; the cut. rivets or
nails are pushed into this flexible tube guide, and when it is filled the flexible
tube guide folds into the required shape. The flexible tube guide is fixed to
the under part of the block, which is made the outline shape of a boot or
shoe, and thereby gives to it the form or shape required. This foot block, by,
which the shape of the flexible tube guide is governed, is fixed to the frame;
and: upon which are arranged slides for the purpose of folding and unfolding:"
the, flexible tube guide. When the rivets or nails are pushed into the flexible.
tube guide; it is then made to fold into the shape of a boot or shoe. bottom,
and another block fitted with the necessary quantity of pegs (corresponding in
shape to the flexible tube guide) is made to push the nails.or. rivets into the
rivet guide,and the process is then continued as described in .connection with:
the first part of this Specification.
I have for both heavy and light work means of partly or altogether covering.
the bottoms of boots or shoes or other covoring for the feet with what I call.
rivet plates; they can be used for the rivetting or otherwise securing the
soles to the upper. leathers or parts, covering the soles, .or such parts of the
soles as require the most protection from wear. This rivet plate can be made,
of cast malleable, metal, brass, copper, tiu, &c. A mold is first made in one.
piece, whose surface may have the appearance of nail heads or other orna-
mental work; each apparent head has its own nail or rivet. The soles are
punctured or perforatod to correspond with the uails or rivets in the before-
mentioned rivet plate. This plate not only acts as a protection to the sole
from wear, but also as a means of rivetting or.securing the soles to the upper
leathers; these rivet plates are also applied to the heels. In some instances
I split the end of the rivets, nails, brads, &c., that they may the more readily,
double.and rivet when coming in contact with the last: I also make a taper
or other kind of hole at the opposite end to the head or stronger part of the
rivet, and I.contrive small projections on the last of the necessary form;180
that when the rivets.come into contact with the..projections on the .last; the:

page_text: hollow part of the rivet spreads out and secures or joins the sole. with the
upper leather, and thereby more effectually prevents moisture or wet getting
between the upper leather and the inner solc. These rivets can be made
hollow at cach end or otherwise, and the whole rivets can be made either by
pressure, or they may be cast in suitable metals in any form required.
The general arrangements of the machinery will not differ in their essential
parts, but only in accordance with the application thereof to the production of
thevarious articles, and the materialsof which theyarecomposed, as, forinstance,
the bed of the boot and shoe machine will differ in form, because it has to
receive the clam block for the iron last, and will have the means of fixing the last
in the jaws of the clam block, which are made to suit either boot or shoe, and
the arrangements for such internal motions in the last as will be necessary.
Some of the means and apparatus connected with stretching are well known,
viz., part of the last is inade to move so as to press out the leather to give
certain shape required for projections of joints, bunions, corns, &c., &c.; in
such cases the clam block will be arranged with corresponding cavities, and
cushioned or-stuffed. ;
:
a
Modifications of apparatus and machinery for rivetting according to my
Invention can be used for various purposes, namely, that of rivetting long
pieces of strong fabrics, such as sails for vessels, bags, harness, straps, portman-
teaus, piping for fire-engines, &c., and various other articles of flexible or textile
utility. Leather piping is performed by first cutting the necessary width for
the required diameter, it is then put into a curved guido, which is formed of
an inner and outer shell, being open and nearly flat at the mouth where the
leather enters, but gradually closes to the diameter required, and at the same
time leaving sufficient lap to receive the rivets. An arm passes through the
centre of the leather guide for the purpose of determining the diameter of the
tube, and also for forming a bed for the action of the punches or perforators
and means of rivetting the same; this arm being hollow admits of a motion for
removing the pieces of leather which fall from the punches or perforators., A
boss of the diameter of the tube is fixed at the end of the arm, also to that
part of the arm which forms the diameter and the lap; the first half of the
arm being for the process of perforating or punching, and the other for.that
of rivetting. A groove or holes are made in the arm, in order that the per-
forator may pierce through the leather; for this process I prefer using my
arrangement of the metal threads, and in connection therewith, the process of
rivetting, as described in the former part of the Specification. The pipe is.
properly fixed for the purpose of being conducted to a drum, upon which it
is received as it is being made; a bracket rises from the bed of this tool.or

page_text: machine, into which the arm is fixed; a hole is arranged in the bracket undor
the arm opposite to the mouth piece or guide, through which the leather'in á
flat state unwraps from a roller fixed at a certain distance on the bed of the
said tool.
The tools for rivetting sails are the same as above, or with but a very little 1
'modification, as it will be seen that straight seaming can be done with suitable
arrangements, either in parts or whole lengths of the necessary' breadths of
canvas for sails, as follows:-A drum or roller can be arranged according to
the dimensions of the sail, to run between the bracket which supports the
framework and other fixtures for my process of rivetting (from my continuous
metal brackets), and the bed upon which I arrange means for perforating and
.punching, and rivetting; one edge of the canvas being fixed in a groove of the
.roller or drum, the other edge of the canvas is on the bed, and the whole or
'so many breadths of canvas as the tool is arranged for, are stretched to a
frame, and cach breadth of canvas is lapped over each other'in any manner
irequired, so that as each succeeding breadth of canvas came forward 'to the
bed for perforation, as soon as the rivet guide has been discharged by the
driving block, the next breadth comes on, and so on until the whole sail is
rivetted. There are also rollers arranged in front of the tool at any required
distance.from each other, for the purpose of carrying an endless sheet or a
number of cords to support and keep straight-the canvas. The stretcher will
be made to liberate the canvas at the time of rivetting, so that tho roller or
drum can receive it as the broadths are thus rivetted; bags, straps, portman-
teaus, and other articles of use whose scams are straight, can be manufactured
..with the peculiar tools of the above description, larger or smaller, as they may
>>be required.
Instead of using rivets or nails-produced by cutting them'in dies, &c., as
*álready described, I cut or cast small pieces of metal, round or any other shape,
so that they are the exact size or bulk required. I arrange a kind of hopper to
Teach hole or perforation, and I put into each hopper the required quantity of the
¡above-named pieces, and at the proper intervals I cause, by properly arranged
machinery, one piece of metal at a time to fall into a block arranged with the
number of dies corresponding with the perforations. The dies in the block are
made to form any kind of rivet suitable to the quality of flexible or textile
materials to be rivetted. This die block has a loose bottom having projections
taper in form'or 'like small pegs, and the die block has small cylinders into
which the projections enter the centre of the cylinders. The cover or top
-being also moveable is formed in the same way with projections on the bottom,
and when the pieces of metal have been put into the cylinders, the top and

page_text: bottom are pressed together, thereby forming the rivet. The flexible or
textile material has been perforated, whilst the former process of forming the
rivet was going on, the top and bottom are removed and the rivets are pushed
from the cylinders through the perforations of the textile or flexible material,
and brought into contact with the bed, upon which is fitted what 1 call the
under rivettor. The pressure is then removed, and the upper rivettor now
descends. I bring pressure upon the rivets, aud spread them out by means of
small projections formed on the under as well as on the upper rivettors. I
also use a roller which will further flatten the rivet heads. This modification
is suitable for making boots, shoes, or other covering for the feet, harness, bags,
portmanteaus, &c., &c. Nor do I confine myself to any precise mode in the
production of the various matters herein described, as, for instance, the soles
for boots and shoes, &c., can be perforated at the time of being moulded, or
shaped, or before being, brought to the last for rivetting. Traces or other
parts of harness, leather for piping, &c., &c.,, are all capable of being made, to
receive the rivets, so that the arrangement for rivetting alone in that case will
be, necessary.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Richard Waller in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
14th September 1859.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, RICHARD
WALLER, of 50, Baker Street, Portman Square, in the County of Middlesex,
Gentleman, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Fourteenth day of March, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-nine, in the twenty-second year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the
said Richard Waller, Her special licence that I, the said Richard Wailer,
my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Richard*
Waller, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time
agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times there-
after during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make,
use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and
Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for
IMPROVEMENTS IN JOINING LEATHER, FLEXIBLE AND TEXTILE MATERIALS FOR THE
PRODUCTION OF BOOTS AND SHOES, AND ARTICLES OF THE LIKE: DESORIPTION, AND..
.

page_text: HARNESS, STRAPPING, BAGS, SAILS, TENT COVERS, PORTMANTEAUS, AND SUCH OTHER
ARTICLES, TOGETHER WITH MACHINERY AND APPARATUS FOR THAT PURPOSE," upon
the condition (amongst others) that I, the said Richard Waller, my executors
or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of
their hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature
of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed
and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seul Patent Office within six
calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters
Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Richard Waller, do hereby declare
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement, that is to say :-
One part of my Invention relates to what I call metal threads or wires,
round, square, or any other required form, which I prefer to corrugate
or roughen by milling, or forming a thread thereon, and made sufficiently
ductile to suit the means for which the said metal will be used in the
manufacture of boots, shoes, or other covering for the feet. I shall use the
same as follows:-I arrange a number of tubes or guides, whose bore is to
suit the diameter or form of the metal threads which have to pass through the
suid holes. These tubes are fixed in a frame, and so placed as to form with
their ends a face; the whole of the tubes are arranged to form the exact shape
of a boot or shoe bottom. Rollers or other means are required to give
motion to the metal threads. The tubes may be wider apart at the ends the
threads enter, in order to give room for the rollers or other contrivance for
pushing forward the said wire or metal threads, and thereby giving continual
supply to the boots or shoes. The metal threads are wound round bobbins
arranged on spindles, for the purpose of more freely delivering the threads
to the tubes or guides, and through them to what I call the rivet guide.
This rivet guide is made, with the same number of holes to correspond with
the face of what we will now call the tube guide, through which the metal
threads are pushed into the rivet guide. The metal threads are then cut to
the desired lengths, and made to supersede the present means of driving nails,
pegs, rivets, brads, &c., one at a time, into the soles of boots, shoes, or other
covering for the feet; a number of boots and shoes can thus be made in the
same time, that one only has hitherto been produced in machines of other
construction. In securing the soles to the upper leathers of boots and shoes
I proceed as follows:-The metal thread tube guides are supported in a
frame, which is fixed in a bracket on the bed of the machine or apparatus;

page_text: the slide on the bed is made to allow of any size of boot or shoe, and
so arranged as to admit of a number at one time, or arranged in a circular
form to move around its centre, instead of sliding in a straight line, having
several boots or shoes in the various processes in operation at the same time,
or seriatim; or I effect a similar object by means of a series of traversing
clamp boxes, in which the boots or shoes are fixed; in these cases the prickers,
rivets, and plunger are actuated, as the boot or shoe is passed to each
process. I use iron lasts upon which I put the upper leathors, and in
that manner they are placed in what I call a clamp block; this clamp block
is formed of two or more pieces, which can be bolted or wedged so as to hold
firmly the boot or shoe placed in it during the process of manufacture;
the clamp block is fixed in a box, which is made to slide in the grooves of the
frame of the machine, the last or lasts being covered with the uppers in the
clamp block, with the soles upwards. I then put on the inner sole or soles;
the welting slides are arranged in the clamp block; they are made in
segments, and can be moved by cams, cranked levers, or other means. The
segments being adjusted, the welting slide is then moved, and approaches the
upper leathers, whose edges project until the welting slides press or lap them
down round the last, thereby covering the inner sole so far as it is necessary
for the process; the welting slides remain in that condition until required to
be removed. The welting slides are so formed as to fit all the sweeps of the
last; they are also perforated or serrated at a proper distance from the edge
nearest the upper leathers, viz., that part of the edge by which the leather
is held down upon the inner sole, which edge is thinner and bevil-like in
shape; the perforations are also cut up to the edge like a wire guage; the
welting slides are now holding the upper leathers, and the inner sole
to the bottom of the last, for the purpose of putting on the outer soles.
This being done, a perforated plate, which I call a pressing or sole plate, is
placed upon the sole, and made to press all fust together; this also be
dune by slides similar in their construction and operation to thewelting slides;
this pressing plate also remains until required to be removed.
may
I now perforate the soles with what I call a perforator, which is a metal
block or plate with prickers or awls fixed into it all the way round in a row
or as many rows as may be required; the prickers or awls may be secured by
having a projection on their shanks, and all held in the block by another plate
screwed to it over the said projection or shoulder. The perforator an I the
pressing plate with its perforations correspond to the pricker or awls in the
perforator; the said prickers or awls may be made to turn round or partly to
do so during the time of pricking or perforating the soles. It will be seen

page_text: that the prickers of the perforator have to pass through the pressing plate.
The perforator is now withdrawn, and the rivet guide, charged with the wire
pegs, nails, or rivets, is brought immediately over the pressing plate. The
holes of both the pressing plato and that of the rivet guide being exactly
opposite to each, the driving block is now brought over the rivet guide, and-
forces the rivets through the pressing plate into the soles. The driving block
is made with the necessary sweeps on the under side of it, suitable for this
process, having pegs projecting, made to fit the holes in the rivet guide and
capable of entering the pressing plate. It will be seen that the pegs in the
driving block correspond with the prickers or awls in the perforator and the
holes in the rivet guide, and also the pressing plate, each having the proper
sweeps or curves. The driving block is now withdrawn, and the rivet guide
placed to the face of the tube guides, through which the metal threads pass;
the pressing plate is also removed, and the welting slides drawn back, and this
part of the process is finished.
I arrange cutters such as a kind of cutting pliers, worked by cams, or of
two steel plates perforated alike for the wires to pass through, the one plate
being moved or slided on the face of the other will cut all the wires; or I
have endless or circular saws to cut the required lengths of metal threads or
wires which are passed from the tube guide into the rivet guide, which is
adjusted to the required distance to allow the saw or other cutter to pass
between them, and so cut off the required lengths of wire which are left in
the rivet guide or carrier; it is then ready for another operation. I fix the
heel by screws or other means to the boot or shoe from the inside or outer
"part thereof, or by means of rivets through one or more layers of leather, in a
similar manner to that above described. The boots or shoes are now ready
for finishing, which can be done by machinery; I use a spiral cutter or shaver
which is made to move round each boot or shoe; this, which may be made of
any suitable form,is for the purpose of trimming or smoothing the sides of the
heels and the soles. A suitable paste or dye is then put on with a sponge,
which has the property of blacking the leather, after which a moveable
burnisher is made to revolve in the same frame in which the spiral or other
cutter moves, and by a suitable motion being given to it,performs the operation
of burnishing. It is well known that this operation requires some warmth ; I
produce the warmth by means of hot air, water, or steam being conveyed into
the spindles of the burnisher, which will be sufficient for obtaining a polish;
the small quantity of moisture necessary may be supplied by a sponge or other
suitable material, kept moist by means of water dripping as required from a
'can or other vessel. I cut the sole by means of a blade or blades of the

page_text: desired curves, from which tool or cutter the soles are conveyed to suitable
troughs of liquid for the purpose of being steeped or saturated, this process
being necessary before submitting the leather to beating or pressure; these
troughs or vessels are capable of being rendered steam-tight, and means are
arranged for putting in the soles and pipes for applying machinery and pumps.
I have chambers in which I lay the soles and heels in tiers, with divisions
made of pieces of wood or other porous material, and by means of pumps
I
force water or other liquid through the leather, which falls into the chamber
beneath; or, I fill the chamber in which the soles and heels are placed with
water or other liquid, and I exhaust from the under chamber the air, and the
water percolates through the leather from the upper chamber in consequence
of the vacuum thus caused; this process is caused by exhausting pumps
in the usual way. I attach a glass guage on the outside, connected with the
upper and lower chambers, with proper cocks and valves to prevent the com-
munication of the two chambers, so that the operator may know when the
water has passed from the upper to the lower chamber. The chambers are
opened, and the soles and heels are removed to a platform connected with the
press, rollers, or beaters; the soles are then passed through the rollers, under
the beaters, or are subjected to the action of the press. I perform the beating
of the soles by means of beaters. Instead of the hammer and lapstone I
employ apparatus similar to that well known as tilting hammers, under which
Iarrange a bed and moveable platform for the purpose of moving the leather,
so that all parts of it are equally beaten by the hammer or hammers. The
soles and heels prepared by this or any other process are removed to the
moulder to receive their requisite shape.
way,
I now proceed to describe the press. The press is made in the usual way,
either with a bracket or other description of frame rising from the bed or
pedestal, and made sufficiently strong. The process of pressing is done either
by screw or lever. A flat die, the shape of the sole or heel, is fixed in the
usual , and is made to come down upon a block capable of revolving, and
upon which the sole or heel is either put by hand or by means of a certain
motion to be obtained by the rising and falling of the shaft, slide, or spindle in
which the die is fixed. The revolving block is provided with a chamber; in
which a moveable plate is fixed; spiral springs keep the plate flush with the
rim or outer edge of the chamber or sides of the block, the plate is allowed to
sink about the thickness of of the sole within the rim when pressed; the rim is
to prevent the sole spreading in consequence of the pressure, the die being
made to fit the space which the rims surrounds; as the die ascends the block
turns round to deliver the sole or heel already pressed to the moulder. The

page_text: upper part or cover of the moulder receives the sole and places it in the
mould; to which motion is given by means of an eccentric or otherwise; the
sole is then removed, and placed so as to become sufficiently dry for perforation,
when they are, ready, to proceed with in the manner before described, or
the edges may be finished before.being attached to the "uppers." Instead
of using what I have called metal thread for making brads-or rivets, &c., I
have sheets of metal which can be so placed in a frame that cutters or dies
operate and produce the required lengths or forms of. brads or rivets,,&c.
For this purpose the dies are arranged upon an iron bed in the usual way,
punches or cutters are arranged opposite to the dies, and as soon as the punch
or cutter has operated, the pieces, nails, or rivets so cut are pushed into small
tube guides, which are linked parallel to each other, forming a chain of upright
tubes. It is necessary that this: chain or tube guide should fold.into the
shape of a sole of a boot, and capable of being made to open out again by
the following process:-The sheetof metal being flat, thedies or cutters operate,
the cut rivets or nails are pushed.into this flexible tube guide,, which when
filled is folded into the required shape. The flexible tube guide is, fixed to
the under part of the block, which is made the outline shape of a boot or shoe,
and thereby gives to it.the form or shape required. This foot block is fixed
to the frame, and upon which are arranged slides for the purpose of folding
and'unfolding the flexible tube guide. When the rivets or nails are pushed
.into the flexible tube guide; it is then made to fold into the shape of a.bootior
shoe bottom, and another. block fitted with the necessary,quantity of plungers
corresponding in shape is made to push the nails or rivets into the rivet guide
or carrier, and the process is then continued as before described. I have
means of partly or altogether covering the bottoms of boots or shoes, with
what I call rivet plates; they can be used for. or instead of the rivetting.or
'otherwise securing the soles to the upper leathers or covering the soles on.such
parts as require the most protection from wear. This rivet plate can.be made
or cast of any suitable metal; a mould is first made in one piece whose surface
may have the appearance of nail heads or ornamental work, each apparent
head has its own nail or rivet, the soles are punctured or perforated to to corre-
spond with the nails or rivets in the rivet plate, this plate not only acts as a
protection to the sole from wear, but also as a means of rivetting or securing
the soles to the upper leathers; these rivet plates are also applied to the heels.
In some instances I split the ends of the rivets, &c., that they may the more
readily double and rivet. I also make a taper or other kind of hole. at the
-opposite end to the head, and I contrive small projections on the last of the
necessary form, so that when the rivets come in! contact with the projections,

page_text: the bollow part of the rivet spreads out. These rivets can be made hollow at
each end or otherwise.
The general arrangements of the machinery will not differ in their essential
parts, but only in accordance with the application thereof to the production of
the various articles and the materials of which they are composed; modi-
fications of apparatus and machinery for rivetting according to my Invention
can be used for various purposes, namely, that of rivetting long pieces of srtong
fabrics, such as sails for vessels, bags, harness, straps, portmanteaus, piping
for fire engines, and various other articles of flexible or textile material.
Leather piping is produced by first cutting the necessary width of leather for
the required diameter of pipe; it is then put into a curved guide which is
formed of double plates, or an inner and an outer shell, being open
and nearly.
flat at the mouth where the leather enters, but gradually closes to the shape
and diameter required, at the same time leaving sufficient lap to receive the
rivets; an arm passes through the centre of the leather guide for the purpose
of determining the diameter of the tube, and also for acting as a bed for the
operation of the punches or perforators, and means of rivetting the same, this
arm being hollow for removing the pieces of leather which fall from the
punches; a boss of the diameter of the tube is fixed at the end of the arm,
also to that part of the arm which forms the diameter and the lap; the first
halfof the arm being for the process of punching or perforating, and the other
for that of rivetting. A groove or holes are made in the arm in order that the
perforator may pierce through the leather; for this process [ prefer using my
arrangement of nietal threads, and in connection therewith the process of
rivetting as described; the pipe is properly arranged for the purpose of being
conducted to a drum, or drawn away in any other convenient manner.
bracket rises from the bed of this machine into which the arm is fixed, a hole
is arranged in the bracket under the arm, opposite to the mouth piece or guide,
through which the leather in a flat state unwraps from a roller. The tools for
rivetting sails are the same as the above, or with but very little modification,
as it will be seen straight seaming can be done either in parts or in whole
lengths of the necessary breadths of canvass for sails,as follows:-A drum or
roller can be arranged, according to the dimensions of the sail, to run between
the bracket which supports the framework and other fixtures for my process of
rivetting (from my continuous threads), and the bed. .upon which I arrange
means for perforating or punching and rivetting one edge of the canvassis on
the bed, and the whole, or so many breadths of canvass as the machine is
arranged for, are stretched to a frame, and each breadth of canvass is lapped
A

page_text: over each other in any manner required,so that as each succeeding breadth of
canvass comes forward to the bed for perforations, as soon as the rivet guide
has been discharged by the driving block, the next breadth comes on, and
so on, until the whole sail is rivetted. There are also rollers in front of
the machine at any required distance from each other, for the purpose of
carrying an endless sheet or number of cords to support and keep straight the
canvass. The stretcher will be made to liberate the canvass at the time of
rivetting, so that the drum or roller can receive it as the breadths are thus
rivetted; bags, straps, portmanteaus, and other articles of use whose seams
aro straight, can be manufactured by a machine of the above description,
larger or smaller, as may be required. Instead of using rivets or nails
produced by cutting them in dies, &c., as already described, I cut or cast
small pieces of metal round or any other shape, so that they are the exact size
or bulk required; I arrange a kind of hopper to each hole or perforation, and
I put into each hopper the required quantity of the above-named pieces, which
I cause by an arrangement to fall, as required, on to a block arranged with
number of dies corresponding with the perforations and shape of the boot
sole or other article. The dies in the block are made to form any kind of
rivet suitable to the quality of the material to be rivetted; this die block
has a loose bottom, having projections taper in form or like small pegs,
and the die block has small cylinders, the projections enter the centre of
the cylinders; the cover or top being also moveable is formed in the same way
with the projections on the bottom, and when the pieces of metal have been
put into the cylinders (or dies), the top and bottom are pressed together,
thereby forming the rivets with the desired indents at each end. The flexible
or textile material has been perforated whilst the process of forming the rivet
was going on; the top and bottom are removed, and the rivets are passed
from the cylinders through the perforations of the textile or other material,
and brought into contact with the bed, upon which is fitted what I call the
under rivetter; the pressure is then removed, and the upper rivetter or
plunger now descends. I bring pressure upon the rivets, and spread them
out by means of small projections formed upon the under as well as the upper
rivetters. I also use a roller or rollers which will further flatten the rivet
heads. This modification is suitable for making boots, shoes, harness,
bags, portmanteaus, pipes, &c., &c. Nor do I confine myself to any precise
mode in the production of the various matters herein described, as, for
instance, the soles for boots and shoes, &c., can be perforated at the time of
being moulded or shaped, or before being brought to the last for rivetting.

page_text: Traces or other parts of harness, leather for piping,&c.,may all be previously
perforated, so that the arrangement for rivetting alone in that case will be
necessary:
Referring to the Sheet of Drawingsaccompanying this Specification,similar
letters refer to similar parts.
side elevation of my
Fig. 1 represents an end elevation, and Fig. 2 a
machine for uniting the upper leather and the sɔle. a is the boot; b, the,
sole plate; c, the prickers or awls; d, the plungers; c is the clamp block
(which is also seen in Figs. 3 & 4); f is a frame, which slides in the
grooves g, y, and is worked by means of the rack and pinion h, 'h; on the
spindle of the pinion is the winch i, which works and actuates the bevel
gearing jj, and h, k, which actuate the shaft and rack pinion 2, 1, by means
of which the framework m, mn, is made to slide at about right angles to the
frame fand slides g. The spindle of the winch i has also a driving pulley and
strap to work the pulley n, which drives the pulleys o, o, which actuate the
band saw p. p, q, are the continuous metal threads or wires; r, r, is a box
or frame arranged with rollers (sec Figs. 5, 6, & 7, the dots in Fig. 7 shew
the wires), so as to draw down a certain length of wires, the length of which
is regulated by the ratchet wheels, s, and passed through the wire tube
guides t, 1, and to the rivet guide, u. The band saw p. p. and its driving
pulleys 0.0, are capable of being moved with the frame m, m, so that the saw
will cut off the given length of wires at the point u, v, in the space between
the tube guides and the rivet carrier or guide; w, w, is an arm sustaining the
rivet guide, and will swivel by the joint x, so as to carry the rivets to the sole
plate b; y is also a joint, by which the prickers can be removed; and after
the rivet guide u, u, is set over the sole plate, the plunger & may be moved
over the rivets, the presser block =, and the slide guides s¹ may be brought
down by means of the screw to press the plungers on to the rivets, and so
force them through the sole plate into the boot.
Figs. 3 & 4 shew the clamp block and box. a, a, is the boot; a, a, are
the welting slides, perforated or serrated to leave space for the rivets; b¹, b¹,
are levers, which force the welting slides to lap the upper leathers; these
levers are actunted by the shafts and mitro wheels c', c', c', c', c, which are
all moved by the winch d'; c', e', are handles to lift the clamp block out of
the box.
Having thus described the nature of my Invention and the manner of
carrying the same into effect, I wish it to be distinctly understood that I do
not confine myself to the exact details herein set forth, and illustrated in the

page_text: accompanying Sheet of Drawings, as many variations may be made without
departing from the principle of my Invention; but I claim, as herein
described,―
1st, the employment of a set or sets of continuous wires or metal threads,
of round, square, corrugated, serrated, screwed, or milled, or other shape,, for
the purpose of being cut and employed as pegs, rivets, or fastenings in the
manufacture of boots, shoes, and textile or flexible materials.
2nd, the method of drawing and cutting the wires for fastenings, and the
manner of supplying and securing the same in the articles or materials.
3rd, the method herein described of lapping or lasting tho "uppers" of
boots and shoes.
4th, the employment of the rivet plate for boots and shoes.
5th, the method of damping and beating, pressing, and moulding the soles of
boots and shocs.
6th, the method of cutting, burnishing, & finishing the soles and heels, and
method of affixing the same.
7th, the machinery or apparatus described and illustrated in the accom-
panying Sheet of Drawings, and also the various apparatus herein mentioned
and referred to, for fastening or joining flexible and textile materials, and the
production of the various articles.
In witness whereof, T, the said Richard Waller, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Fourteenth day of September, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-nine.
Witness,
II. FLETCHER,
42, Southampton Buildings,
Chancery Lane.
RICHARD WALLER.
(I.B.)