Improvements in Coats.
Year: 1896

page_text: Date of Application, 1st Jan., 1896
Complete Specification Left, 24th Aug., 1896-Accepted, 17th Oct., 1896
Improvements in Coats.
I JOHN BEDFORD of Highfield House, Flockton near Wakefield Merchant
Tailor do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
My invention relates to improvements in coats and has for its object to provide
a perfectly shaped and straight fronted coat.
For this purpose I provide the front portions of the coat with stiffening materials
acting as a kind of corset whereby the coat is caused to partake of the shape of the
wearer and always to be maintained in shape under ordinary wear and tear.
In making up a coat as for instance a morning coat, I attach to the inside of the
front portions thereof, between the outside cloth and the inside lining, pieces of
canvas or similar material made of suitable size and shape and stiffened like an
ordinary corset.
In order to cause this canvas to be stiffened sufficiently to maintain the corset
shape of the coat I combine therewith strips of thin metal such as steel or of
whalebone about one inch wide, secured in position by pieces of cloth sewn to the
canvas around the said strips.
The strips lie horizontally across the pieces of canvas at suitable distances apart
and may be of different lengths according to their positions, their outer ends lying
against or near to the edging of the coat.
To these outer ends of the said strips are secured suitable fasteners or clips for
fastening the coat whereby the use of buttons and buttonholes is obviated.
By this means the coat can be worn tighter or easier at the will of the wearer
without the necessity of having to remove buttons.
As my improvements are capable of some modification without departing from
the principle thereof I do not restrict myself to the precise form or placement of
the parts thereof.
Dated this 1st day of January 1895.
J. B. FLEURET,
5 Hatton Garden, London, Agent for the Applicant.
I JOHN BEDFORD of Highfield House, Flockton near Wakefield do hereby
declare the nature of this invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:-
This invention relates to improvements in coats for gentlemen's wear and has for
its object to secure a perfectly shaped and straight fronted coat.
For this purpose I provide the front portions of the coat with stiffening materials
acting as a kind of corset whereby it is caused to partake of the shape of the body
of the wearer and always to be maintained in such shape under ordinary wear and
tear.

page_text: In making up for instance a morning cont, I attach to the inside of the front
portions or breast thereof, between the outside cloth and the inside lining, pieces of
canvas or similar material of suitable size and shape and stiffened like an ordinary
corset.
In order to enuse the canvas pieces to be stiffened sufficiently to maintain the
correct shape of the coat I combine therewith strips of thin metal such as steel,
cane felt, whalebone or wire-work from one half to one inch wide secured in position
by pieces of cloth sewn to the canvas, or the strips may be let into the canvas
formed of double thickness for this purpose.
The said strips when of metal are formed at each end with points or teeth for
entering the material of the coat to cause them to maintain a curved shape longi-
turlinally according to the required shape of the coat the said points being fastened
in position inside or outside of the coat lining and protected by small plates or caps
pivoted to the strips.
The strips lie horizontally across the inside of the coat or on the piece of canvas
between the outside cloth and lining at suitable distances apart and may be of
different lengths according to their positions and size of coat, their outer ends lying
against or near the edging and the lapels of the coat.
In order to obviate the use of buttons and button-holes the outer ends of some
of the strips are provided with suitable fasteners or clips for fastening the front of
the coat.
Referring to the accompanying sheet of drawings
Figure 1 is a side view of one of the pieces of canvas or similar material attached
to the inside of the front of the coat and
Figure 2 is a side view of a portion of a morning coat with the canvas piece
attached as shown in dotted lines.
Figures 3 to 13 show detail views and modifications of the steels or strips used
either with the canvas inside coat or separately on outside coat lining for keeping
the coat front straight especially about the shoulders and stiffening the canvas.
The canvas picce represented by the letter a is formed to the required shape to
be sewn to the inside of the front of the coat, between the cloth and the lining,
and extends downwards from the neck to the waist seam a'. A canvas baud b may
if required be attached to the piece a at the waist seam and carried around the body
to give shape to the waist and keep the coat in position by preventing stretching
at that part. This band is extended a few inches into the skirt a 2 to give shape
over the hips and to act as a kind of padding at that part.
The shoulder portion from neck to lapel of the cauvas piece may be made
separately to the other or body portion and stiffened by means of a canvas band,
bone, cane, steel, felt, wire-work or cardboard strips, or liquid stiffening such as
glue may be used.
The canvas a is also ribbed to give it stiffness and is formed with double
thicknesses of material forming sheaths for receiving the stiffening strips.
The said strips or steels are placed in position across each side of the breast of
the coat as shown in dotted lines in Figure 2 and from the armhole to the lapel,
for the purpose of keeping the front of the coat straight and preventing creases
and folds. They are self adjustable or may be sewn in position and are fixed by
bending and sprieging them into the outside surface of the lining of the coat the
points at the ends being fixed into the cloth of the latter.
In Figure 3 e shows one of the steel strips or bands formed at each end with
points which points are covered after entering the cloth by a pivoted plate or
cap c 2, the latter being shown closed at one end and open at the other. Figure 4
is a section of the closed end and Figure 5 shows the points formed with a bend e 3
to give a better purchase on the cloth. Figure 6 shows another form of steel
provided with angular or pointed ends d protected by pivoted spring plates the
spring of which is held in the recessed portion d2 of the strip. Figure 7 is a
section of one of the ends. Figure 8 shows another form of sirip with double
points at each end and a pivoted spring plate d².

page_text: In Figure 9. the ends of the strip are shown provided with a safety pin arrange-
ment pivoted thereto, and this figure also shows a means of lengthening or
shortening the strip by means of a plate e formed with a slot e fitted with
adjusting screws, the two lengths ff of the strip having also slots f 2 engaging
with the said screws. In Figure 10 the points of the strip are protected by sliding
plates g.
I may connect two or more of the said strips together by bands h as
shown in Figure 11, and their distances apart may be adjusted by forming the
latter with sliding tongues engaging one another or the said bands may be
provided with hinges or joints h 2 as shown in Figure 12. I may also arrange the
steel strips in the form of an oval as shown in Figure 13 in order to cover a greater
surface of coat; or instead of the metal strips wire-work may be used arranged
similarly to the said strips and having metal pieces formed with points attached to
each end.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is ;-
1. In means for securing perfectly fitting and straight fronted coats the applica-
tion to the front or breast portions of the same of pieces of canvas or felt suitably
formed and stiffened and secured in position between the lining and cloth or other
material of the coat substantially as described and for the purposes specified.
2. The combination with a coat of pieces of canvas a provided with a waist
band band stiffened by steel, bone cane or cardboard strips or by liquid glue
substantially as described and for the purposes specified.
3. The improved construction of stiffening strips or bands with the various
means of attaching them in position substantially as described and shown in
Figures 6 to 13 of the drawings.
4. The improved means for securing perfectly fitting and straight fronted coats
substantially as described with reference to the accompanying sheet of drawings.
Dated this 22nd day of August 1896.
J. R. FLEURET,
5 Hatton Garden, London, Agent for the Applicant.