An Improved Apparatus for Curling and Ironing the Edges of Hat Brims.
Year: 1898

page_text: Date of Application, 30th Apr., 1808
Complete Specification Lett, 27th Jan., 1899-Accepted, 4th Mar., 1899
Complete Specification Lett, 27th Jan., 1899-Accepted, 4th Mar., 1899
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
An Improved Apparatus for Curling and Ironing the Edges of Hat
Brims.
I, GILES ATHERTON, of the Virginia Mills, Higher Hillgate, Stockport, in the
County of Chester, Hatter's Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of this inven-
tion to be as follows:-
My said invention relates to an improved apparatus for curling and ironing the
edges of hat brims and is particularly intended for treating soft felt hats, but
which may also be used for nexible and hard felt hats.
In an apparatus constructed in accordance with my invention I provide means
whereby the edges of hat brims may be curled and ironed to any required shape
of oval, or, if desired, to a true circle.
In carrying my invention into effect I provide a vertical shaft rotated at a
suitable speed by worm gearing and which is capable of sliding to some extent in
suitable bearings. The vertical shaft is provided with a disc loose thereon and
capable of being moved in a direction at right angles to the axis of the shaft and
above this disc is a key or slide secured to the shaft.
Upon this key and secured thereto is a hat bed.
The hat bed is provided with a brow block adjustable for various sizes of hats.
If desired wooden or other brow blocks may be used of usual or necessary
sizes to fit the hats and formed with plain or milled surfaces or provided with
strips or bands of roughened or corrugated rubber so as to grip the hat.
A screw working in a nut formed on the loose disc is operated to bring the disc
concentric or excentric with the hat bed according as the edges of the hat brims
are to be curled circular or to any required oval. The disc is held stationary by
the screw and according to the amount of excentricity of the disc, on the revo-
lution of the shaft, the disc influences, the rotary motion of the hat bed and
revolves in an excentric path.
To facilitate the stopping and starting of the machine the bed plate carrying
the driving disc and hat bed is pivottally mounted so that by means of a handle
the worm wheel carried on the axis of the driving disc may be readily moved out
of and into gear with the driving worm.
I will now describe the means whereby the edges of the hat brim are curled
and ironed.
The hat having been secured upon the brow block and the apparatus set in
motion, the brim comes in contact with a guide plate carried adjustably in a
suitable bracket.
The edge of the hat brim is thus turned up at first slightly, and gradually
increasing owing to the contour of the guide until as it leaves the guide the
requisite curl is partly formed on the brim. In conjunction with the guide plate
I provide a steam jet adapted to play upon the edge of the hat brim and so moisten
and heat the felt so as condition" it for curling and ironing. In addition to

page_text: the steaming the brim may also if requisite be moistened by a sponge or spray
of water.
From the guide plate the edge of the hat brim is passed between curling and
ironing tools adjustably carried by suitable brackets.
These curling tools consist of a curling iron heated by means of a gas or other
flame and formed with a concave face.
Bearing against this concave face is the convex face of another tool which may
be provided with an anti-friction bowl and the two tools are maintained against
each other by means of a weight or spring with a suitable pressure sufficient to
effect the ironing of the curl and render its contour permanent.
Several sizes of curling irons may be provided with each machine for different
sizes of curls. It will be understood that when the hat has made one complete
revolution the brim has been curled and ironed and the hat may be revolved
several times if necessary to complete the curling and render it permanent.
In order to pull the hat brim through the curling irons I may place a weighted
ring upon the brim or otherwise suitably secure the hat to the rotating hat bed
so that the power imparted to the rotating hat bed will suffice to overcome the
friction and pressure of the curling irons upon the edges of the brim. Or I
might form one of the curling irons as a rotary tool and suitably drive the same,
so that in addition to ironing the curl the rotary action of the tool would assist
in revolving the hat brim and prevent it from jambing between the ironing tools.
An important feature of my invention lies in the fact that by using the excen-
trically carried hat bed I am enabled to curl the hat brim the requisite width
at the sides and taper off the curl practically to nothing at the front and back if
desired. In other machines with which I am acquainted the curling has to be
effected equally all round and be afterwards cut to the required shape. When
required the hat bed may be adjusted relatively to the disc so as to curl the edges
equally all round the hat brims. An adjusting screw is provided to adjust the parts
carrying the hat bed nearer to or further from the curling tools.
Instead of using the hat bed capable of being revolved in an excentric path as
described I might mount a suitable brow block for the hat upon a driven spindle
carrying an oval cam formed with sloping sides.
The spindle is mounted in sliding bearings and the cam maintained by mean's
of a weight or spring against a stop or stops capable of adjustment at varying
heights on the side of the camı. The revolving brow block thus presents the hat
at the required oval to the curling tools.
Data: 04 3
P
1000
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
An Improved Apparatus for Curling and Ironing the Edges of Hat
Brims.
I, GILES ATHERTON, of the Virginia Mills, Higher Hillgate, Stockport, in the
County of Chester, Hatter's Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of this inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly described
·and ascertained in and by the following statement, and accompanying drawings:-
My said invention relates to an improved apparatus for curling and ironing
the edges of hat brims and is particularly intended for treating soft felt and soft
frame hats.

page_text: In the said drawings,
On Sheet 1,
Fig. 1 is a side elevation of a hat brim curling and ironing machine constructed
n accordance with my invention.
Fig. 2 is a plan thereof.
Fig. 3 is an end view, and
Figs. 4 to 7 are detail parts.
On Sheet 2,
Fig. 8 is a plan view of of the mechanism I use for rotating the hats through
either an oval or concentric path.
Fig. 9 is a sectional elevation of same and
Figs. 10 to 15 are detail parts.
In a machine constructed in accordance with my invention instead of rotating
the hat by hand or by the friction of the rotating tool as has been done prior to
my invention, I provide means whereby the hat is positively and automatically
rotated, and the brims curled and ironed to any required degree of oval without
depending upon the skill of the attendant.
In carrying my invention into effect I provide a vertical shaft a, rotated at a
suitable speed by means of a worm a', gearing with a worm wheel a², mounted
on the shaft, a. The worm a¹ is formed or secured upon a shaft b which is revolved
from the back shaft by means of a belt 62, and belt pulleys 63 63 mounted on
the worm and back shafts.
The main driving shaft A of the apparatus, which is provided with a fast and
loose pulley 64 65, for stopping and starting the machine, rotates the back shaft
by means of pullies 66 67 and a belt 68, as shown more clearly in Figs. 2 and 3.
The vertical driving shaft a is provided with a bearing in a boss or sleeve
formed in a slide resting on the bed or frame B of the apparatus, as shown more
clearly in the sectional view Fig. 9. The bed B is slotted permitting the boss c
of the slide c¹ to be adjusted therein as will be hereinafter explained.
Upon the sliding plate ¹I mount another plate d capable of being slid by
means of a screw upon the surface of the plate c'. The plate d is formed with
a central hole and an annular flange d². Upon the plate & and surrounding the
flange d I mount a cam plate e.
Upon the cam plate e I mount a hat bed plate e¹ formed on its under surface
The curved recess e² is shown in
with a curved recess e² to fit the cam plate e.
dotted lines in the plan view Fig. 10. Upon the top of the hat bed plate e¹ I cut
a key way e within which slides a key or crosshead e' formed on or secured to
the shaft a. By operating the screw d' the plate d can be slid, guided by studs d
secured to the plate c', and working in slots in the plate d, until the hole
assumes a concentric position with regard to the shaft a. By this means the
hat bed plate el would be revolved by the shaft and crosshead in a circular path
such as would be suitable when curling and ironing round brimmed hats. For
hat brims that have been rounded or pared to a suitable oval shape the plate d
In the
is set excentrically by means of the screw d' as shown in Figs. 8 and 9.
position shown in these figs. the front or back of the hat brim is presented to
the ironing tools and the hat bed plate e¹ is excentric to the shaft a as shown in
full lines in the plan view Fig. 10. As the crosshead et rotates the hat bed
plate e', the hat bed plate begins to slide to some extent upon the curved cam
plate e, or overruns the same, until the cross head has revolved through a
quarter of a revolution when the hat bed plate is concentric with the shaft a as
shown in dotted lines in Fig. 10. The hat brim has thus been rotated from the
front to the side and operated upon by the ironing tools, and this excentric and

page_text: concentric position of the hat bed plate e¹ relatively to the shaft a occurs twice
in each revolution, providing for two excentric positious for the front and back
of the hat, and two concentric positions for the sides.
The hat brim is thus moved through the required oval path.
The hat bed plate e' is formed with holes or recesses accommodating pins or
projections ftormed on the underside of a hat bed f which is thereby rotated
with the plate e'. The upper side of the hat bed f is also provided with pins fr
by means of which wooden brow blocks f³ (Fig. 1) are mounted upon the hat bed
and rotated therewith.
The brow blocks f³ are thus readily removed and replaced according to the size
of hat being operated upon. I may however provide the hat bed ƒ with a brow
block adjustable for various sizes of hats.
The hat after being placed upon the brow block f is secured thereto by means
of an elastic round rubber band, cord or other means.
The curling and ironing tools consist of a rotary tool and fixed iron between
which the hat brim is ironed and curled.
The rotary tool g is carried on the end of a spindle g¹ mounted to revolve in a
bracket g². The spindle g¹ is also provided with a pulley 3 receiving motion by
means of a belt g' from a pulley g5 mounted on the back shaft b'. The bracket g²
is pivotted to swing on screwed studs 9" and is kept in elastic contact with the
ironing tool by means of a spring coiled around the spindle h² secured to
the bracket g, the tension of the spring being regulated by means of a nut h³.
The ironing tool his formed with a concave face against which the rotary tool g
bears. The concave tool his hollow and secured by means of studs passing
through an adjusting slot 5 to a slide i, which can be operated to remove the
tool h when required from contact with the hat brim. This can be effected
simultaneously with the stoppage of the rotary hat bed in the following manner.
A lever is pivotted to a bracket j' forming part of or secured to the frame of
the machine. The upper end of the lever is pivotted to a finger or projection ja
secured to the slide , the lower end of the lever being pivotted to a rod k. Con-
nected to the rod k is one end of a bellcrank lever mounted in bearings in a
bracket the other end of the bellcrank lever being secured to a pendant
rod operated by a treadle (not shown). The rod k is also connected to another
bellcrank lever pivotted at which is also connected by means a loose collar 12
to the worm shaft b. One end of the worm shaft b (shown in dotted lines in
Fig. 5) revolves in a bracket 3 provided with a stud passing through a fixed
bracket m and secured by a nut m¹.
The other end of the shaft 6 is carried by a hanging bracket n swinging from
a fixed stud n. By depressing the rod by means of the treadle the rod k is
operated against the action of a spring k so as to remove the iron h, and at the
same time the bellcrank lever swings the worm shaft upon its pivot so as to
remove the worm a¹ from engagement with the worm wheel a² and thus stop the
rotation of the hat bed.,
This will be more apparent from an inspection of Fig. 5.
The hollow iron h is heated to a suitable temperature by means of a jet of
mixed gas and air under pressure.
The gas burner is disposed within the hollow tool h and secured thereto by a
saddle o the flame being governed by a tap o¹. The burner is provided with two
branches o² 3 for gas and air each branch being provided with a governing tap.
One of the branches o² is in communication with the gas supply whilst the air
branch o is in connection with an air propellor o driven by means of a band and
pullies from the main driving shaft as shown in Fig. 3. Instead of an air pro-
pellor a suitable form of pump or other air compressor may be used.
By mixing the gas with air under pressure a greater and more uniform heat is
obtained as well as economy in gas and absence of smell.
The rotary tool g, and the arm h are made interchangeable in various sizes

page_text: ccording to the size of curl of brim to be given. The rotary tool g may be simply
crewed to the spindle g¹.
To adjust the rotary tool g vertically the bracket g² is secured to another
bracket adjustably connected to a hinged bracket g by means of studs q¹. The
bracket 9 is hinged at 2 so that the same may be turned upon its hinge and the
otary tool g removed from the iron h when required.
This is effected as follows. projecting foot q3 of the bracket is normally
disposed beneath a stop r secured to the frame. This projecting foot q³ rests upon
the hinged plate q of the bracket 9. The foot q3 is secured to the hinged plate q
by means of studs q one of the studs being disposed within a curved slot as shown
in Fig. 2. By grasping the handles and pulling the same in the direction of
the arrow the bracket g is turned on the studs until the foot q3 is removed
from beneath the stop r. This is done against the action of a spring s¹ coiled
on a spindle sa regulated in tension by the nut s³. The spring is coiled between
the nut s³ and a bracket s through which the spindle 2 passes. The spindle sa
Under ordinary
terminates in a hook engaging with the web of the bracket g.
working the pull of the spring s¹ tends to overcome the pull of the belts 62 68 upon
the bracket g. Having removed the foot q³ from beneath the stop r as described
the hinged bracket may then be lifted up, and if desired, rested upon the top of
the stop r as shown in Fig. 7.
I will now describe briefly the action of my improved apparatus. A brow
block of suitable size having been mounted on the hat bed f the hat is secured
The slide cl
thereto by means of a retaining elastic band, cord or other means.
carrying the sliding plate d is adjusted by means of the hand wheel t operating
the screw t¹ until the hat bed is adjusted correctly to the rotary tool g and iron h.
The required oval path of the hat bed is obtained by operating the screw d¹ so as
to obtain the necessary degree of excentricity of the slide d with the shaft a as
already described. An improved scale and pointer may also be provided to indicate
the varying degrees of oval that can be obtained. The treadle is depressed to
retract the iron h and bring the worm a¹ out of gear with the worm wheel a². The
necessary adjustments having once been made no further adjustment of the parts
will be required so long as the same size of hat and style of curve of brimi are
being operated upon. The treadle is released thereby starting the machine. The
brim is moistened by a steam or water jet u (shown in dotted lines in Fig. 2) which
is supplied with fluid from any suitable source and is controlled by a tap or
5 valve u¹.
"condition the felt for the curling and ironing operation.
This will prepare or
Instead of a steam or water jet the attendant may moisten the brim with a sponge
or other means.
"
The brim is conducted between the rotary tool g and the iron h, the excentri-
ocally revolved hat bed f carrying the hat therewith the brim is advanced or
retracted to the curling and ironing tools as required automatically without any
attention thereto on the part of the attendant. The hat may be rotated several
times if desired so as to thoroughly curl and iron the brim and render its contour
permanent. When the operation is completed the treadle is depressed, the rotation
5 of the hat bed ceases and the hot iron h is retracted from contact with the brim.
An important advantage of my improved apparatus lies in the fact that if the
hat brims are previously cut to the required oval shape, the rotating hat bed can
be adjusted to traverse the brims in such an excentric path that the sides are
given the required curl which curl tapers off at the front and back so that the
50 brim requires no after cutting. On the other hand if the hat bed is required to
be rotated in a true circle this can be effected by simply adjusting the sliding
plate d concentric with the vertical shaft a as explained.
55
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is
1) In apparatus for curling and ironing hat brims the combination of mechanism

page_text: for positively rotating the hat through an excentric or circular path with means
for curling and ironing the hat brims as the hat is rotated through its excentric
or circular path substantially as described and shown.
2) In apparatus of the indicated nature the combination of the rotary tool g
with the iron h formed with a concave face and heated internally preferably by
means of a flame, of gas and air under pressure substantially as described and
illustrated. -
3) In apparatus for curling and ironing hat brims, mounting the ironing tool h
in sliding bearings and pivotting the worm shaft 6 so that the iron h can be
retracted from the hat brim and the worm removed from engagement with the
worm wheel in the manner, by the means and substantially as described and
illustrated.
4) As means for removing the rotary ironing tool out of action, securing the
bracket carrying the rotary tool to a hinged bracket g and operating the same in
the manner and substantially as described and illustrated.
5) The general arrangement construction and combination of parts comprising
the improved apparatus for curling and ironing hat brims substantially as
described and shown.