Improvements in the Manufacture of Fashioned Circular Ribbed Stockings, and in Circular Knitting Machines therefor.
Year: 1891

page_text: Date of Application, 15th Dec., 1891
Complete Specification Left. 14th Sept. 1992-4ccepted, 29th Oct., 1892
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Fashioned Circular Ribbed
Stockings, and in Circular Knitting Machines therefor.
I JOHN WILLIAM WATTS Hosiery Factory Manager of Countesthorpe in the
County of Leicester do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as
follows:-
:-
The object of this invention is two-fold which consists of the following
improvements.
First. Improved methods of making fashioned or shapable ribbed stocking legs
upon circular knitting machines by which the minimum width, or ankle piece of
the legs, are of one uniform pattern of rib all round. This part of my invention is
applicable to all kinds of circular ribbed stocking legs. The feet and heels
may be
made on the same machine as the legs; or, they may be made on other machines,
and afterwards sewn or seamed in the usual manner.
The second part of this invention relates to improvements in circular knitting
machines and consists in improved guard cams, needles, ribbing needle beds, switch
cams, etc.
The following are my improved patterns of fashioned circular ribbed stocking
legs which can all be made upon circular knitting machines.
My first improvement consists in shaping the legs of stockings as follows. The
top of the leg of the stockings may have an ordinary welt, the upper or maximum
width of the leg is made of two patterns of ribs, the front portion being 2/1 and
the back portion 3/1 ribs. The calf part of the leg is gradually shaped less by
reducing the 3/1 ribs into 2/1 the small of the leg, or ankle piece, is then of one
uniform 2/1 pattern all round, the heel, and foot is added by any of the usual
methods.
My second improvement consists in shaping the legs of stockings as follows. The
upper portion has a 1/1 top, the wide part of the leg is of two patterns of ribs,
2/1 on front and 3/1 at the back: the calf is fashioned by reducing the 3/1 to
2/1 ribs, making the ankle piece of the latter pattern all round.
My third improvement consists in making stocking legs, as follows. Top of leg
a 1/1 pattern changing same to 3/1 on the front, and 5/1 at the back when sufficient
of the maximum width is knitted shaping the leg by reducing the 5/1 ribs to 3/1 ribs
leaving the ankle piece 3/1 all round.
My fourth improvement consists in making stocking legs as follows, a welt to
the top of the leg. The wide part two patterns of ribs, 3/1 and 5/1, fashioning
the calf by changing the 5/1 to 3/1 leaving the ankle piece 3/1 all round.
My fifth improvement consists in making stocking legs as follows.
A 1/1 top
the maximum width 3/1 rib on front and 6/1 at back, gradually changing the calf
portion from 6/1 to 3/1 leaving the ankle piece that pattern all round.
My sixth improvement consists in making stocking legs as follows. A welt to
the top, the wide part 3/1 and 6/1 ribs gradually reducing the calf by changing
the 6/1 to 3/1 leaving the ankle 3/1 all round.
My seventh improvement consists in making stocking legs as follows. Welting
the top, making the widest part of two patterns, viz. the front 3/2 and the back
5/2 ribs. Next changing at the calf from 5/2 to 3/2 leaving the ankle the latter
rib all round.
My eighth improvement consists in making stocking legs as follows. A 1/1 top,
the wide part of two patterns of ribs 3/2 in front and 6/2 at back, then gradually
reducing the 6/2 to 3/2 at the calf leaving the ankle the latter pattern all round.

page_text: My next improvements relate to needles as follows.
Instead of shaping the outer ends of my combination dial and cylinder needles
as shown in Figs. 14 and 15 of my drawings and Specifications of Patent 971689 I
level or round one of the butts at its outer end, so that it cannot jam against the
ends of my improved guard and other cams, thereby reducing the liability to
breakages of either needles, cams, or cylinders. A further improvement consists
in forming the upper butt of single wire only, and in pointing the outer end thereby
greatly reducing the liability to jam on the ends of the cams.
I may use single butted needles as shown in Figs. 21 of drawings of Patent
No. 1534585 or short needles like those shown in Figs. 11, 12 and 13 of drawings
of Patent No. 971689.
In either case my improvements consist in bevelling the outer ends of the butts,
and in considerably lengthening the upper end M, whereby the needles are kept
from coming forward out of the needle grooves which reduces their liability to
getting fractured. By using needles with these lengthened ends M³ I can use
needle cylinders without either reducing the diameter at the upper end or cutting
a horizontal groove around the outer surface for the cam ring to fit in. Another
advantage I gain is that the needle cylinder can be removed from the cam cylinder
without the removal of the needle ring.
Improved guard cams form another part of this invention they are constructed
and arranged as follows.
If I use needles having the double butts as previously described, I preferably
bevel or point the upper butt and locate the guard cams over the needle ring, one
cam upon each side of the yarn carrier.
The outer ends of the said cams are shaped so that the extreme inner end, is out
of the reach of the upper needle butt, (when the latter is in the cylinder) and the
inner edge gradually lies nearer the needle cylinder so that although the upper
butt of the needle cannot catch the outer end of the cam the gradually advancing
inner edge of the cam reaches the needle and turns the butt either above or below
the cam.
The inner edge of the cam at the outer end is brought to a knife edge while
both edges of the inner end of the cam is sufficiently thick, and shaped right for
depressing the needles from their highest working position, until the lower butt
has passed under the depressing or stitch cam.
As
Instead of fitting the guard cams above the needle ring as just described I
may arrange them on the inside of the cam cylinder to operate on the lower butt
of the needle. It may be rigidly attached to the inner surface of the cylinder, or
it may be fitted in an inclined slot, cut in the side of the cam cylinder, one end
being pivoted, and the other end held in position by a suitable spring, so that if a
needle butt strikes the edge of the cam the said cam moves out of the way.
soon as the needle has got away the spring forces the cam in position again.
Instead of the aforementioned kind of guard cams, I may fit a revolving knife
edged wheel in a suitable slot in the cylinder formed upon each side of the yarn
carrier. These moving knife edged cams, will prevent the needles from jamming
even if the outer ends of the needles are not bevelled or pointed.
The next part of this invention relates to improvements in the conical ribbing
cams, which consists in arranging and constructing the cams so that my improved
short, needles with double butts will work in a conical cylinder, whereby I am
enabled to bring the said cams much nearer the vertical needle cylinder on the
wider part of the cone, and in cutting as many needle grooves in the ribbing cone
as there are needle grooves in the frame cylinder which gives me the advantage of
knitting any desired pattern of ribbed fabric on the same machine.
The following is my improved device for making a fashioned leg stocking having
its upper portion a 2/1 rib at the front and a 3/1 at the back, then gradually
diminishing the width of the fabric at the calf by removing one needle from each
of the 3/1 ribs, until the ankle piece is of one uniform pattern all round.
Instead of cutting the grooves in the ribbing needle bed in the usual manner,

page_text: e, cutting half the quantity of needle grooves in the dial or cone, as there are in
the frame needle bed, I cut the former of two patterns or gauges.
The coarse section is cut so that there is only one ribbing needle groove, to
three in the frame needle bed, whilst the opposite or fine section is cut so that there
is one ribbing to two frame needle grooves. In the coarser section are put the
needles that knit the rib stitches, in the back part of the stocking. Having filled
the whole of the grooves in the ribbing and frame needle beds, sufficient of the
maximum width of the stocking leg is knitted. The leg is then narrowed gradually
at the calf, by removing one frame needle from each of the 3/1 ribs, whereby the
ankle piece is left a 2/1 pattern all round.
I will next describe my improved apparatus by which I am enabled to make
any of the aforementioned fashioned stockings as well as many others not
herein specified, as well as being able to make larger and better heels to
stockings, and half hose, than has been made previously on circular reversible
knitting machines.
Surrounding the frame needle cylinder, I fit a fashioning needle cylinder, or dial,
or a section of same, whose upper surface may be either conical, or flat, a cam
plate fitted with cams, for operating the fashioning needles is made to revolve
around the machine, and above the fashioning needle bed in a similar manner
to that described in my former Specifications of Patent No. 1836. But instead
of the yarn thread being merely laid on the stems of the fashioning needles as
therein described, I arrange the cams so that each fashioning needle draws its
loop direct from the bobbin, alternately with the frame needles, but to do so
I have to make the following improvements: First a much wider needle bed is
required, second, longer fashioning needles, whose butts are placed near their
outer ends so that the said butts work in a much larger circle than formerly,
whereby the needles can be moved a greater distance radially, whilst the cams are
travelling from one needle to the other, consequently, each needle gets a clear loop
from the bobbin, the quality of the fabric being the same where the fashioning
needles are, as in the other parts of the circle. Third, upon the under side of the
cam plate I arrange two raceways, (instead of one as formerly) the outer raceway
is for operating the fashioning needles, and the inner one for actuating the latch
guards, or fenders, so that when the fashioning needles are moved inwardly, the
fatch guards prevent the latches from closing. The cams are so arranged on the
underside of the plate, that they will operate the fashioning needles when the machine
is reciprocated.
It is a general complaint that the heels of seamless made goods are too.small, so
much so that after being worn a while, the heel of the stocking works under the
foot, to avoid that, I make the heels larger by adding any desired number of
fashioning needles at the commencement of the heel, and removing them at its
completion. Or I may arrange the quantity of needles in the leg piece, so that
a portion of the fashioning needles are not removed when shaping the calf, but
after the heel is made, I gradually remove the said needles, thereby forming a
gussett in the foot, which makes a superior finished article.
Heretofore I have not been able to work the outside fashioning needles in
combination with a ribbing dial attachment, owing to the liability of the fore ends
of the fashioning needles to jam on the outer upper edge of the dial. The
outer ends of the ribbing needles also jammed on the upper inner edge of the
fashioning needle bed. But by using my combination needles, having two butts,
I can do with a ribbing needle bed of much smaller diameter, than when needles
having one butt only are used, because I can so arrange the ribbing cams that
the back or inner butt, is used for pushing the needles out to throw off their
loops from the latches on to their stems, therefore chamfer off the upper outer
edge of the dial, leaving the lower outer edge to knock over the ribbing loops,
I also chamfer off the inner upper edge of the fashioning needle bed, thereby
giving plenty of room for the fore ends of both the ribbing and fashioning needles
without jamming.

page_text: Lustead of using a stationary ribber arm for supporting the ribbing attach-
ment my improved method is to attach the said arm to the upper surface of the
fashioning cam plate, or, to some portion of the revolving ring that carries the said
plate.
Dated this 12th day of December 1801
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Fashioned Circular Ribbed
Stockings, and in Circular Knitting Machines therefor.
I JOHN WILLIAM WATTS Hosiery Factory Manager of Countesthorpe in the
County of Leicester do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement:-
The objects of this invention are two fold and consist of the following improve-
ments riz.
First. Improved methods of making fashioned or shapable ribbed stockings upon
circular knitting machines by which the minimum width or ankle piece of the legs
are of one uniform pattern of rib all round. This part of my invention is applicable
to all kinds of circular ribbed stocking legs. The feet and heels to such fashioned
legs may be made upon the same machine as the legs or they may be made upon
other machines and afterwards sewn or seamed by any of the well known methods.
The following are my improved patterns of fashioned circular made ribbed
stockings.
.
First. A ribbed stocking having its upper or maximum portion of the leg made
in two patterns of ribs iz. a 2/1 pattern at the front and a 3/1 pattern at the back.
The fashions at the calf being produced by changing, the 3/1 pattern rib to
a 2/1 rib leaving the ankle piece of one uniform 2/1 pattern all round the fabric.
2nd. A ribbed stocking having its upper or maximum portion of the leg made in
two patterns of ribs eis. a 3/1 pattern at the front and a 5/1 pattern at the back.
The fashions at the calf being produced by changing the 5/1 pattern to a
3/1 pattern rib and the ankle piece being of one uniform 3/1 pattern of rib all round.
3rd. A ribbed stocking having its upper or maximum portion of the leg made in
two patterns of ribs eiz. a 3/1 pattern in front and a 6/1 pattern at the back. The
fashions at the calf being produced by changing the 6/1 pattern ribs to a 3/1
pattern. The ankle piece being of one uniform 3/1 pattern all round.
4th. A ribbed stocking having its upper or maximum portion of the leg made of
two patterns of ribs viz. a 3/2 pattern at the front and a 5/2 pattern at the back.
The fashions at the calf being produced by changing the 52 pattern into a
3/2 pattern rib. The ankle piece being one uniform 3/2 pattern all round.
The second part of this invention relates to improvements in circular knitting
machines and consists of the following.
1st. Improved needles that are interchangable from the frame needle bed to the
ribbing needle bed and vice versa. Instead of leaving the outer ends of the needle
butts rounded as shown in my drawings and Specifications of Patent No. 971659 1
bevel or point one or both of the outer ends of the said butts as shown at A & A¹
Fig. 6 to 11 so that they are less likely to catch against the knife edge of my
improved guard cams that are hereinafter described thereby greatly reducing the
liability to breakages of either needles, cams or cylinders. A further improvement
in the needles consist in forming the upper butt of single wire and pointing its outer
end as shown at A Fig. 6 which further reduces the liability of the butts from
catching against the cams.
I may use needles having single butts as shown in Figs. 11. 12 & 13 of the
drawings of my former Patent No. 9716. If so I use the following improved
construction of them riz.-Instead of the upper end of the front turned up part E³

page_text: extending only about of an inch above the butt as shown in the aforementioned
drawings, I considerably lengthen the said upper extension as shown at A³ Fig. 9
& 11 of these drawings the outer end of the butt is bevelled or pointed and the
upper extension is so long that it never gets under the lower edge of the cams
consequently the inner surface of the cams or the needle ring always holds the
needles from coming forward out of the needle grooves which makes the machine
run more steadily and reduces the liability to fracture the needles, cams &c. By
using any of the aforementioned needles I can dispense with the horizontal groove
in the needle cylinder into which is generally fitted the needle ring for holding the
needles at the back of their grooves. My needle ring only fitting up to the outer
circumference of the needle cylinder. Another advantage this arrangement gives
me is that the machine can be taken to pieces and put together again with greater
facility because the needle cylinder can be put in or taken out of the machine
without the removal of the needle ring from the top of the cam cylinder.
Improved guard cams form another part of this invention. They are constructed
and arranged as follows.
If I use needles having double butts and the upper butt is pointed like Figs. 6, 7,
& 10 I preferably locate the guard cams above the needle ring as shown in Fig. 5
& 12 one cam upon each side of the stitch cam. The inner edge of each cam
from the shoulder A to the outer end A is shaped into a knife edge as seen in
Fig. 5 & 12. These edges fit nearly up to the needle cylinder at A but
gradually recede from it until the outer points A³ are too far away for the outer
points of the upper butts of the needles to catch against them when the latter are
in the grooves of the needle cylinder. It is these knife edges acting on the
outer points of the butts that prevents the breakages of cams needles and cylinders.
For instance, supposing the operator leaves a needle midway between the working
raceway and the idle one (which is a common occurence, when making heels & tocs)
the knife edge of the cam would turn the point of the upper butt of the said needle
either above or below the edge. If below then-the underside of the cam would
further depress it, until its lower butt had reached the operative raceway. If above
then the shoulder A would raise it until the lower butt was in the inoperative raceway
thus preventing the lower butt from jamming against the outer ends B' of the
stitch cam B. It will thus be seen that when the upper butts of the needles are on
the upper side of the guard cam the lower butts are held above the outer ends of
the stitch cams and also when the upper butts are on the underside of the guard
cams the lower butts are below the outer ends of the stitch cams thus absolutely
guarding the needle butts from jamming against the ends of the stitch cam.
Instead of fitting the guard cams above the needle ring as just described I cau
arrange them underneath the said ring they may be rigidly attached to the inner
surface of the cam cylinder or may be fitted into inclined slots cut through the
sides of the said cylinder one upon each side of the yarn carrier as shown on the
left side of Fig. 13. The inner end of the cams are fitted to the cam cylinder so
that their inner edge lies nearly up to the outer surface of the needle cylinder while
the inner knife edge of the outer end beginning at A gradually recedes from the
said cylinder until the extreme end lies within the slot of the cylinder thus
preventing the end of the butts of the needles from catching against it. The knife
edge acting upon the point of the butts of the needles raises or lowers them so that
the inner end of the cam puts the said needles into either their operative or
inoperative raceway. Instead of the cam being rigid, it may be pivoted at one end
and the other end held in position by a suitable spring as shown at Fig. 13. As is
the pivoted end. Or I can accomplish similar results by having a revolving guard
cam that has a knife edge and which is let into an inclined slot in the cylinder as
shown on the right side of Fig. 13. This wheel A is set at such an angle that if
the needle butts pass under the lower edge of the wheel they will be in the operative
raceway A but if they come in contact with the edge of the wheel they are raised
by it until they enter the inoperative raceway A" the butts of the needles are thus
protected from jamming against any of the exposed ends of the cams. .

page_text: The next part of this invention relates to improvements in the shape and
arrangement of the cams &c. for operating the double butted ribbing needles in a
conical ribbing attachment.
I arrange the cams upon the inner surface of the cam carrying cone as shown in
Fig. 14 & 16 so that the raceways for operating the ribbing needles surround the
lower and wider part of the cone, whereby I am enabled to cut a greater number of
needle grooves in the cone than where the cam raceway is nearer the top of the
cone. In the coarser gauge machines, I can have as many needle grooves cut in the
ribbing cone as there are in the frame needle cylinder and so make a greater variety
of patterns of ribbed fabrics, or I can make a finer machine, or one of smaller
diameter than has been practical heretofore i.e. in machines wherein the needles are
transferable from one needle bed to the other.
cam.
Figs. 14 & 16 show two sets of conical ribbing cams attached to the inside of a
cam cone and Figs. 15 & 17 are outside views of the cone showing the levers for
operating the stitch and welt cams. C is the gateway through which the ribbing
needles are passed when changing them from the ribbing needle bed to the frame
needle bed and vice versa. C is the elevating cam. Cis the stitch or knocking
over cam. C3 is the dwell cam. C is the welt cam and C is the depressing
C & C are the working raceways and C³ is the inoperative raceway wherein
the butts of the needles are when making welts. The cams travel in the direction
indicated by the arrows. When a needle is placed in the ribber through the
gateway C and the machine is turned the cam C₁ passes between the two butts of
the needle which it raises until the butt A has got on the upper edge of the cam C2
the latter cam then raises the needle to its highest position. Whilst the needle is
being raised by the butt A the fore-end of the dwell cam C³ passes between the
two butts in which position it remains until it reaches the welt cam C when the
latter again depresses it to the position it was in when first placed in the ribber.
When making the welt the cam C is put in the position shown by dotted lines in the
said figures the butt A¹ then passes through the raceway C8. The stitch cam is
made adjustable in height by the slide C. The welt cam C in Fig. 14 is altered
by the lever C10 Fig. 15.
The following is my improved device for operating the welt cam in Fig. 16. The
said cam is pivoted to the cone at C" a stud or tang whose inner end is fastened into
the cam at Cits outer end passing through the slot in the cone, a steel or other
plate is fitted to the outside of the cone, it has two horizontal slots C¹³ C¹³ Fig. 17
that fit on to two studs C" the outer end of the plate C is formed into a suitable
handle for moving the said plate laterally. It also has an inclined slot that fits
on the stud or tang C" this slot has two recesses C¹ one at each end into which
rests the tang when the cam is placed in either of its positions the said recesses
being sufficient to hold the cam in either position without any other fastening.
The following is one of my improved devices for making a fashioned leg stocking
having its upper portion made of two patterns of ribs viz. a 2/1 pattern at the front
and a 3/1 pattern at the back of the stocking, then gradually diminishing the width
of the fabric at the calf by removing one needle from each of the 3/1 ribs until the
stocking is of one uniform pattern all round. Instead of cutting the needle grooves
in the ribbing needle bed of one uniform pattern all round and cutting one ribbing
needle groove to two frame needle grooves which is the usual method, I cut my
improved needle bed as follows, viz. I cut the cone or dial into two gauges, the
coarse section is cut so that there is only one ribbing needle groove to three frame
needle grooves whilst the opposite or fine section is cut so that there is one ribbing
to two frame needle grooves. In the coarser section are put the needles that knit
the rib stitches in the back part of the stocking. Having put needles in the whole
of the grooves of the ribbing and frame needle beds sufficient of the maximum
width of the stocking leg is knitted. The fabric is then gradually narrowed at
the calf by removing one frame needle from each of the 3/1 ribs, I preferably begin
to narrow the fabric by removing the needles from the two ribs at the back of the
stocking then knit on the desired number of courses and again remove two more

page_text: needles one from each rib next the two already removed then knit a similar
number of courses and again remove two more and so the process is continued
until the fabric is of one uniform 2/1 pattern all round, the ankle piece is then
knitted of this latter pattern. The heel and foot may be made upon the same
machine or the legs may be run on other frames to have the heels and feet put to
them in any of the well known ways.
Fig. 18 is a ribbing dial with the grooves cut in two patterns the coarser for
holding the needles that knits the back of the leg and the finer for the needles that
knits the front of the leg.
The next part of this invention relates to improvements in fashioning apparatus
by which I am enabled to make upon circular reversible knitting machines any of
the fashioned stockings shown by Figs. 1. 2. 3. & 4. as well as a many other sorts of
ribbed scamless hose and half hose not herein specified I can also with the aid
of the said apparatus make larger and better heels and gusset the feet of seamless
hose and half hose.
Heretofore I have not been able to use a fashioning apparatus located outside
the needle cylinder in combination with a ribbing dial attachment of the reversible
knitting machine type because the fore ends of the fashioning needles jammed
against the ribbing attachment and the fore ends of the ribbing needles did like-
wise against the inner upper edge of the fashioning needle bed-consequently I
had to use a ribbing attachment of the power driven type as described in my
former Specifications of Patent No. 1836/84 wherein the ribbing needles are
soldered in jacks. As this class of machine is not reversible we could only make
fashioned legs which were afterwards heeled and footed in other machines. But
with my present improvements I can make complete fashioned stockings as well as
fashioned legs on the same machine. The said stockings possessing the following
improvements viz. The legs are fashioned down the back part only. The quality
of the fabric remaining as good after the needles have been removed as in the
wide part of the leg. The ankle piece is of one uniform pattern all round.
The heels can be made larger and the instep can be gussetted. The fashioning
apparatus may be of a similar description to that described in my former
Specifications of Patent Nos. 1836 and 8754*. I may locate the fashioning
apparatus as near to the frame needle cylinder as is shown in the drawings of the
two above mentioned Patents and either use the fashioning needles alone or in
combination with the auxiliary instruments. In either case I chamfer or hevel off
the upper inner edge of the fashioning needle bed which allows plenty of room for
the ribbing needles to cast off their loops from the latches on to their stems
without the fore end of the needles jamming on the fashioning needle bed. I also
chamfer or bevel off a portion of the upper outer edge of the ribbing needle bed
so that the fashioning needles can cast off their loops without jamming on the
ribbing needle bed which enables me to use ribbing needles having single butts
that may or may not be interchangable from the ribbing needle bed to the frame
bed. But I preferably use my combination needles with double butts shown at
Figs. 6, 7, & 8 which are readily interchangable from the ribbing dial needle bed
to the frame needle bed and vice versa because by using the said needles I can do
with a smaller diameter cam plate and also a less upper or needle guide portion to
the dial as shown in Figs. 18 & 20. Instead of the out throw cam being located
on the cam plate and revolving near the outer margin of the needle dial as it
usually does in reversible knitting machines with dial attachment I locate the out
throw cam much nearer the axis of the machine as shown at D' Fig. 19 and throw
out the needles by the cam D' acting on the back butt A' of the needles. In
Fig. 19 I show a complete arrangement of my improved dial ribbing cams and
cam plate. D is the cam plate of small diameter. D' is the passage way where
the needles are passed through when changing them from ribbing to plain knitting
and vice versa. D' is the out throw cam. D is the drawing in cam. D' is the
knocking over cam. D is the dwell cam. D is the welt cam and D' is another
dwell cam.
It will thus be seen that the cam plate and the upper part of the

page_text: needle dial can be of much less diameter than in machines where ribbing needles
are used having only one butt whether the said needles are transferable or not.
By using the smaller diameter cam plate and upper part of the ribbing dial, I gain
plenty of room for the fashioning needles to cast off their loops without their fore
ends jamming against the upper outer edge E¹ of the ribbing dial or cam plate.
Fig. 18 represents the double gauged dial and also the diminished diameter of the
upper or needle guide portion. The outer thin edge E is left the full diameter to
assist the ribbing needles in knocking over their loops. A further improvement
consists in supporting the ribbing attachment by a revolving arm whose base is
attached to some part of the revolving fashioning apparatus preferably to the
revolving cam plate as shown in Figs. 20 & 21. F is the ribber arm.
Fare
the screws.
Having given a description of my improvements in fashioning apparatus I will
now describe the process of making a fashioned ribbed stocking having two
patterns of ribs in the upper or maximum part, the ankle piece being 2/1 all round.
To better illustrate my explanation I will suppose that there are the following
numbers of grooves cut in each of the three needle beds . 120 in the frame
cylinder 40 in the ribbing dial and 60 in the fashioning needle bed but as this bed
only extends half way round the frame cylinder the grooves are cut exactly the
same gauge as the frame needle grooves. The work is set up as follows. The
whole of the grooves of the frame cylinder are filled with needles and then some
work is hung on in the usual manner when the needles are clear that is when the
niachine has knitted enough plain work to make room for the ribbing attachment
the latter is placed in position so that the ribbing needle grooves are opposite every
third frame needle which needles are then transferred to the ribbing dial, the
pattern being thus changed from plain to 2/1 pattern fabric. The fashioning
needle bed is next placed in position so that each fashioning needle groove is
opposite the tricks or posts midway between the grooves of the needle cylinder.
The fashioning needles are next added one fashioning needle being put in every
third groove the said fashioning needle lying midway between the ribbing needles
i.e. the needles will be round the front of the machine in the following order.
First, frame. Second fashioning, third, frame, fourth ribbing, fifth, frame, sixth
fashioning, seventh, frame, eighth ribbing, ninth, frame, tenth fashioning, eleventh
frame & twelfth ribbing and so on in the same order until the front half of the
machine is filled. There will thus be 20 ribs of 3/1 pattern and 20 of 2/1 ditto.
The maximum part of the stocking is knitted and the order of fashioning is
preferably as follows. I stop the machine with the ribber arm and cam plate at
the back of the machine and then remove the two fashioning needles from the two
central 3/1 ribs ciz. numbers ten and eleven hanging their loops upon the adjacent
frame needles. The desired number of courses is next knitted say five (more or
less) then numbers nine and eleven of the fashioning needles are removed their
loops being placed on the adjacent frame needles and so the process is continued
until the whole of the fashioning needles are removed. The small or ankle piece
of the leg is next knitted a 2/1 pattern all round. Having arrived at the heel the
whole of those ribbing needles are removed that worked between the fashioning
needles (if I wish to make the heel larger than usual I add the required number
of fashioning needles and when the heel is finished 1 gradually remove them,
thus fashioning or gussetting the foot) the heel and foot is then made in the
usual well known way of making seamless goods. When the toe is finished the
ribbing needles are again transferred from the frame to the ribber the fashioning
plate is added and the fashioning needles are added as before, a similar process
being repeated for each stocking.
To make a stocking having the leg the same pattern as that shown at Fig. 2 in
which the upper part is a 3/1 pattern at the front and a 5/1 pattern at the back
and fashioned down to a 3/1 pattern all round at the ankle, 1 proceed as follows.
I will suppose there are the same number of grooves in the fashioning and frame
beds as before mentioned. First the frame bed is filled with needles (sis. 100)

page_text: the work set up and the ribbing attachment added the ribbing needle bed having
50 grooves. Every fourth needle is removed from the frame bed and put into the
ribbing bed thus making 25 ribs of 3/1 pattern all round the fabric. The
fashioning needle bed is next put in position and the fashioning needles added, two
fashioning needles being added where the 5/1 ribs are required. The following is
how the needles would be arranged for knitting the 5/1 pattern at the back of
the stocking eiz. first frame, second fashioning, third frame, fourth fashioning, fifth
frame, sixth ribber, and so on along the front half of the machine or until sufficient
fashioning needles have been added to make the maximum width of the stocking,
Having knitted the wide part of the stocking the fashioning is proceeded with as
follows. The four fashioning needles are first removed from the two central 5/1
ribs next a few courses are worked say six and then the two fashioning needles are
removed from each of the 5/1 ribs upon the right and left side of those already
removed and so the process is continued until the whole of the fashioning needles
'are removed leaving the ankle piece to be knitted a 3/1 pattern all round. The
heel and foot is next made in a similar manner to other 3/1 pattern seamless hose.
Various other patterns of fashioned ribbed hose can readily be made with the
aforementioned outside fashioning apparatus so long as the grooves in the three
needle beds correspond to the patterns of fabric required.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I claim is:
1st. A fashioned or shapable ribbed stocking having the maximum part of the
leg made in two patterns of ribs, the front part being a 2/1 pattern and the back
part a 3/1 whilst the ankle piece is a 2/1 pattern all round the fabric.
2nd. A fashioned or shapable ribbed stocking having the maximum part of the
leg made in two patterns of ribs, the front part being a 3/1 pattern and the back
portion 5/1 whilst the ankle piece is a 3/1 pattern all round the fabric.
3rd. A fashioned or shapable ribbed stocking having the maximum part of the
leg made in two patterns of ribs, the front part being a 3/1 pattern and the back
part a 6/1 pattern whilst the ankle piece is a 3/1 pattern all round.
4th. A fashioned or shapable ribbed stocking having the maximum part of the
leg made in two patterns of ribs, the front part being a 3/2 pattern and the back
portion a 6/2 pattern whilst the ankle piece is a 3/2 pattern all round.
5th. Needles having double butts one or both of the said butts being pointed at
the outer end for the purposes shown.
6th. Needles as shown by Figs. 6 & 10 having double butts, the upper butt made
of single wire, and pointed at its outer end for the purposes shown.
7th. Needles as shown by Fig. 7 having double butts the upper butt pointed at
its outer end for the purposes shown.
8th. Needles as shown by Fig. 8 having double butts the lower one pointed at
its outer end for the purposes shown.
9th. Needles as shown by Figs. 9 & 11 having a single pointed butt with the
turned up portion A³ greatly extended for the purposes shown and described.
10th. In a circular knitting machine guard cams located above the cam cylinder
and needle ring, one upon each side of the stitch cam for protecting the needles
from jamming against the exposed end of the cams in the cain cylinder.
11th. In circular knitting machines guard cams located above the cam cylinder
and needle ring that have one portion of their inner edge formed into a knife edge
the said knife edges gradually receding from near the outer surface of the needle
cylinder at A until their outer ends are out of the reach of the fore ends of the
needle butts when the needles are in the grooves of the cylinder.
12th. In circular knitting machines the combination of the cam cylinder the
stitch cam B the depressing cams the upthrow cams the guard cams and the needle
ring substantially as and for the purpose set forth and illustrated in Fig. 12.
13th. In circular kittting machines guard cams rigidly attached to the cam
cylinder and located underneath the needle ring whose inuer edges near to and at
B

page_text: the outer ends are formed into knife edges, the said edges gradually receding from
near the needle cylinder at A' until their extreme ends lie in recesses or slots
formed in the inner surface of the cam cylinder for the purposes shown and
described.
14th. In circular knitting machines knife edged guard cams fitted in slots cut in
the side of the cam cylinder one end being pivoted and the other held in position
by a suitable spring substantially as shown and for the purposes described.
15th. In circular knitting machines revolving knife edged guard cams fitted in
slots in the side of the cam cylinder substantially as shown and for the purposes
described.
16th. In circular knitting machines the construction and arrangement of conical
ribbing cams upon the inside of the cam carrying cone so as to form a double
raceway for operating the double butted ribbing needles substantially as shown in
Figs. 14 & 16.
17th. In circular knitting machines the combination of the cam carrying cone
the double butted needles the elevating cam C the stitch cam C2 the dwell
cam C³ the welt cam C and the depressing cam C shaped and arranged
substantially as shown in Figs. 14 & 16.
18th. In circular knitting machines a ribbing needle bed cut in two patterns or
gauges for holding the ribbing needles engaged in knitting the two patterns of
fabric forming the upper or maximum portion of a stocking leg as illustrated in
Fig. 18.
19th. In circular knitting machines the chamfering or bevelling off the upper
inner edge of the fashioning needle bed for the purpose shown and described.
20th. In circular knitting machines the chamfering or bevelling off the upper
outer edges of the ribbing needle dial attachment to make room for the fore ends
of the fashioning needles when the latter are moved forward to cast off their loops
from their latches on to their stems substantially as set forth.
21st. In circular knitting machines the construction of a ribbing needle dial as
shown in Fig. 18 whereon a greater space is left between the outer lower edge E
and the ribbing needle yarn posts E' which allows plenty of room for the fore-ends
of the fashioning needles to move in when they cast off their loops from their
latches on to their stems substantially as set forth.
22nd. In circular knitting machines the out throw cam in dial ribbing attach-
ments placed nearer the axis of the machine for throwing out the ribbing needles
by operating on the back butts of the needles as shown in Fig. 19 for the purpose
set forth.
23rd. In circular knitting machines the combination of the small cam plate and
the cams for operating the ribbing needles in a dial ribbing attachment as shown in
Fig. 19 consisting of out throw cam D' drawing in cam D³ stitch or knocking over
cam D dwell cams D' & D' and welt cam De substantially as set forth.
24th. In circular knitting machines the combination for fashioning ribbed
stockings consisting of fashioning needle bed revolving cam plate carrying cams
for operating the fashioning needles the frame needle bed cam cylinder carrying
cams for operating the frame needles ribbing needle bed and cam plate for
operating the ribbing needles as shown by Figs. 20 & 21 substantially as set forth.
25th. In circular knitting machines a revolving arm for supporting the ribbing
attachment whose base is attached to the cam plate that operates the outside
fashioning needles or to some other portion of the outer revolving ring substantially
as shown and described.
Dated this 12th dox of Santambian 1802
JOHN WILLIAM WATTS.