and in apparatus therefor
Year: 1887

page_text: Date of Application, 31st Aug., 1887
Complete Specification Left, 28th June, 1888
Complete Specification Accepted, 3rd Aug., 1888
This invention has for its object improvements in the manufacture of ruches and in
apparatus therefor.
The apparatus which I employ consists of two spirals of equal pitch right and left
handed.
The spirals are set with their axes parallel or slightly inclined and so that they
interlock or mesh the one into the other. They are rotated at the same speed in
opposite directions.
The ruching to be treated by this apparatus consists preferably of one or more
In this state, that is to
crimped strips of muslin or other material fixed into a band.
say with the strips to form the frill straight and flat excepting only the crimping the
frill is entered between the two spirals where they intersect. By the operation of the
spirals the frill is displaced or waved the spirals acting upon the frill to deflect it
alternately to one side and the other of the band.
The spirals may in some cases be made of different sizes or substance of wire.
I sometimes employ two pair of spirals set side by side to produce goffered work.
When a plain strip of fabric is fed between these spirals so that they engage with it
on its two edges, the spirals form the fabric into a series of transverse corrugations or
goffers. A pair of pressing rollers operating between the two pairs of spirals may be
employed to form a band. Or the spirals may deliver the fabric into guides which
convey it to pressing rollers driven at a slower speed than that at which the fabric is
delivered by the spirals.
In place of employing spirals in pairs I may employ single spirals working in
conjunction with combs or rows of travelling points to produce a like effect.
CARPMAEL & Co.,
Agents for the Applicant.

page_text: be performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement :-
This invention has for its object improvements in the manufacture of ruches and in
apparatus therefor.
The apparatus which 1 employ consists of two spirals of equal pitch right and left
handed.
The spirals are set with their axes parallel or slightly inclined and so that they
interlock or mesh the one into the other. They are rotated at the same speed in
opposite directions.
The ruching to be treated by this apparatus consists preferably of one or more
crimped strips of muslin or other material fixed into a band. In this state, (that is to
say with the frill flat excepting only the crimping and the irregular undulation
resulting therefrom) the frill is entered between the two spirals where they intersect.
By the operation of the spirals the frill is displaced or waved the spirals acting upon
the frill to deflect it alternately to one side and the other of the band.
The spirals may in some cases be made of different sizes or substance of wire.
I sometimes employ two pair of spirals set side by side to produce goffered work.
When a plain strip of fabric is fed between these spirals so that they engage with it
on its two edges, the spirals form the fabric into a series of transverse corrugations or
goffers. A pair of pressing-rollers operating between the two pairs of spirals may be
employed to form a band. Or the spirals may deliver the fabric into guides which
convey it to pressing rollers driven at a slower speed than that at which the fabric is
delivered by the spirals.
In place of employing spirals in pairs I may employ single spirals working in
conjunction with combs or rows of travelling points to produce a like effect.
In order that my said invention may be fully understood and readily carried into
effect I will proceed to describe the drawings hereunto annexed.
Figure 1 is a plan, Figure 2 is a side elevation partly in section and Figure 3 is
an end elevation of a machine constructed in accordance with my invention for setting
the frill of ruches.
Figure 4 is a side elevation of a portion of the spirals, and Figure 5 is a transverse
section of the same. Figure 6 is a side elevation showing spirals of another
form

page_text: Figure is a side elevation and Figure 8 is an end elevation of a pair of spirals
made from wire.
Figure 9 is an end elevation of the guide which regulates the passage of the work
into the machine.
Figure 10 is a plan, Figure 11 is a front elevation and Figure 12 a rear elevation of
a machine constructed in accordance with my invention for producing goffered work
by the aid of two pair of spirals and pressing rollers operating upon the fabric whilst
it is held by the spirals.
Figure 13 is a plan, Figure 14 is a sectional side elevation and Figure 15 is a front
elevation of parts of a machine constructed in accordance with my invention for
producing goffered work by the aid of two pair of spirals; guides; and pressing rollers
operating upon the fabric after it has been released by the spirals and whilst it is held
between the guides.
Figure 16 is a plan and Figure 17 is a side elevation and shows a single spiral
working in conjunction with a comb or row of points and forming a machine for
setting the frill of ruches.
In Figures 1 to 9 a is a bed plate from which is supported the stud axis b. c is a
pinion on the axis bit can be clutched in and out of gear with the cone pulley d which
is driven by an endless cord. The pinion e drives the intermediate wheel e and the
pinion. The pinion fis on an axis which also carries the lower spiral . i is the
upper spiral, its axis which is parallel or nearly so with the axis g is geared with
the axis g by a pair of wheels k, k. 11 are iron hoods partially enclosing the spirals,
the lower hood is heated by gas flames and heat is thus communicated to the
spirals. m is the guide to aid in entering the work into the machine. m¹ is the
support by which the guide m is carried. m² is an adjustable mouth piece provided
upon the guide. nn are supports for the work as it approaches the spirals. o represents
the work. is the clutch lever.
P
The work commonly consists of three pieces of crimped muslin set into a band,
and the frill is in the irregular wave like form which the crimping causes it to
assume. The object of the treatment is to set the frill into smaller and more
regular undulations.
In Figures 10, 11 and 12 99 and are two pair of interlocking spirals, their
axes are geared by bevelled pinions with axes s s which are also geared together
and with a driving axis t as shown. uu are two guide plates between which the fabric
to be goffered is led to the spirals; the band is of a width to be caught and held by
the spirals, are pressing rollers, they are driven at a surface speed equal to that at
which the fabric is carried forward by the spirals. The spirals and also the pressing
rollers are heated by gas but the apparatus for this purpose is not shown. Moistened
threads may be applied to the band by the pressing rollers as is usual.
Figures 13, 14 and 15 show a somewhat similar arrangement but the pressing
rollers are set in advance of the spirals and retaining guides ww are added. The
spirals crowd the fabric between the guide wires w w and whilst it is so retained the
pressing rollers v press it into a band.
In Figures 16 and 17 æ is a spiral on an axis which is caused to rotate in suitable
bearings. yy are a series of pins mounted on a wheel and driven at the same surface
speed as the ruche passing through the machine. are bent wires which control
the spiral and cause it to interlock with the pins. The ruch is presented to the spiral
as shown in the Figures 1, 2 and 9. The spiral working with the pins or comb
operates in the same way as the interlocking spirals and may in each case be substituted
for these.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is:-
1. The improvement in the manufacture of ruches consisting in setting the frill
into small and regular undulations by passing the frill between interlocking

page_text: 2. The combination substantially as described in a machine for the manufacture of
ruches of two interlocking spirals on parallel or slightly inclined axes; apparatus for
rotating these spirals in opposite directions; a guide to guide the work into the
machine and apparatus for heating the spirals.
3. The improvement in the production of goffered work for ruches consisting in
passing a band of muslin or other fabric between two pair of interlocking spirals and
thereby gathering the fabric to be set into a band.
4. The combination substantially as described in a machine for the production of
goffered work for ruches consisting of two pair of interlocking spirals on parallel or
slightly inclined axes; apparatus for rotating these axes in pairs in opposite directions;
a guide for guiding the work into the machine and pressing rollers or equivalent
instruments for setting the gathered fabric in a band whilst it is held by the
spirals.
5. The combination substantially as described in a machine for the production of
goffered work for ruches consisting of two pairs of interlocking spirals on parallel or
slightly inclined axes; apparatus for rotating these axes in pairs in opposite directions;
a guide for guiding the work into the machine; guides for receiving the work from
the spirals and pressing rollers or equivalent instruments for setting the gathered fabric
into a band whilst it is retained by the receiving guides.
6. The improvements referred to in the preceding claiming clauses but with the
substitution for interlocking spirals, of spirals working in conjunction with combs or
rows of travelling points.
7. My improvements substantially as herein described in the manufacture of ruches
and in apparatus therefor.