Improvements in the Production of Selvage Edges to Pile Fabrics and in Apparatus to be Used for the Purpose.
Year: 1888

page_text: Date of Application, 6th Dec., 1888
Complete Specification Left, 4th Sept., 1889-Accepted, 5th Oct., 1889
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Production of Selvage Edges to Pile Fabrics
and in Apparatus to be Used for the Purpose.
We, SAMUEL CUNLIFFE LISTER, Manufacturer, and JOSE REIXAOH, Manager, both
of Manningham Mills, Bradford, in the County of York, do hereby declare the nature
of this invention to be as follows:-
In some cases when pile fabrics are woven in broad widths it is desirable to con-
vert them into narrow goods by dividing them longitudinally into two or more widths
and to form each of such widths with selvage edges without pile. In cases also
where selvage edges are injured or torn it is desirable to cut them away and produce
new ones.
According to our invention we form a selvage from the body of the piece by
cutting away the pile from a narrow strip along the edge of a width of pile fabric
so as to leave the back or ground to form the selvage and we make the edge of the
selvage secure by whipping it over with a sewing machine.
Preferably we effect this in the process of finishing.
We provide mechanism on the shearing machines by which the portion required
for the selvage is cut clear away of pile from the ground or back of the piece after
which we sew the edge of the selvage by means of a sewing machine constructed
with a rotary motion which whips and binds the thread around the edge of the
selvage by which the edge is made fast and similar to a woven selvage.
Dated this 6th day of December 1888
CARPMAEL & Co.,
Agents
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Production of Selvage Edges to Pile Fabrios
and in Apparatus to be Used for the Purpose.
We, SAMUEL CUNLIFFE LISTER Manufacturer and JOSÉ REIXACH, Manager, both
of Manningham Mills Bradford in the County of York do hereby declare the nature
of this Invention and in what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
In some cases when pile fabrics are woven in broad widths it is desirable to convert
them into narrow goods by dividing them longitudinally into two or more widths and
to form each of such widths with selvage edges without pile. In cases also where
selvage edges are injured or torn it is desirable to cut them away and produce new
ones.
According to our Invention we form a selvage from the body of the piece by
cutting away the pile from a narrow strip along the edge of a width of pile fabric so
as to leave the back or ground to form the selvage and we make the edge of the
selvage secure by whipping it over with a sewing machine.
Preferably we effect this in the process of finishing.
We provide mechanism on the shearing machines by which the portion required for
the selvage is cut clear away of pile from the ground or back of the piece after which
we sew the edge of. the selvage by means of a sewing machine which whips and
binds the thread around the edge of the selvage by which the edge is made fast and
similar to a woven selvage.
When a selvage is to be produced in accordance with our Invention we proceed as
follows: we pass the piece through a shearing machine, such as is commonly used
for shearing the pile; but we first arrange a bridge piece in the proper place upon

page_text: the rail which supports the fabric under the spiral knife. This bridge piece serves to
raise the portion of the fabric which passes over it somewhat higher than the rest of
the fabric which passes over the edge of the rail so that the knife here cuts down to
the foundation of the fabric in place simply of shearing the tips of the pile to bring it
to an even surface. The bridge piece is equal in width to two selvages, in the case
of dividing a wide piece into two narrow pieces or where a new selvage is to be
produced close to the margin of the piece to replace a damaged selvage a narrower
bridge piece can be used. On each side of the bridge springs are arranged to press
upon the face of the fabric to keep it away from the knife so that the inner edge of
the selvage may be sharply defined.
Thus when the piece leaves the shearing machine there will be a stripe or stripes
without pile extending along it from end to end.
In the annexed drawings Figure 1 is a front elevation showing a portion of the
shearing machine with the fabric in it. A is the spiral cutter and B is the ledger
blade. C is the rail on which the fabric is laid and over which it is caused to
be drawn. D is the fabric and D₁ is the stripe from which the pile has been
removed.
and
Figure 2 is an edge view of the fabric.
Figure 3 is a back elevation of a portion of the machine without the fabric
Figure 4 is a side elevation.
E is the bridge piece fixed in suitable position upon the rail C. F F are spring
fingers for holding down the fabric to the edge of the rail at the sides of the bridge
piece. G is a bar which carries the springs F. The bar G is carried in bearings at
its ends; one of these bearings is seen at H.
When the piece comes from the shearing machine we proceed to cut the fabric
along the centre of each of the stripes; except where the stripe is close to the edge of
the piece as it will be when the object is to replace a damaged selvage and then we
cut the fabric so as to leave a selvage of suitable width.
"
We then take the fabric to a sewing machine of the lock stitch class, working with
two threads, a needle thread and a shuttle thread. This machine, in place of the
usual feeding appliance which advances the fabric stitch by stitch in a straight line,
has a feeding appliance such as to produce a zigzag line of stitches sometimes called
'herring bone sewing. Such machines are well known and in use for other
purposes. The work is so guided through the machine that for one stitch the needle
descends through the fabric a short distance within the edge, and for the next stitch
it descends just outside the edge missing the fabric. For the third stitch the needle
again passes through the fabric as for the first stitch and so on in such manner that
the edge of the fabric becomes whipped or bound round by the sewing threads so that
it cannot fray or unravel.
As to the length of the stitches this may be varied but ten to the inch will be
found suitable and they may pass through the fabric at about this distance or rather
further from the edge.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what
we claim is :-
1. The process for the production of a selvage edge to a pile fabric by the use of
the shearing machine and sewing machine substantially as described.
2. The combination with a shearing machine of parts substantially as described
whereby the same is adapted to remove pile from a stripe passing from end to end
of the piece and suitable to be converted into a selvage or selvages as herein set
forth.
D
a
1000