Improvements in and relating to Embroidering Machines.
Year: 1899

page_text: Date of Application, 14th July, 1899-Accepted, 19th Aug., 1899
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in and relating to Embroidering Machines.
We, EMILE CORNELY and ROBERT CORNELY, both of 87, Faubourg St. Denis,
Paris, France, Manufacturers of Sewing Machines, do hereby declare the nature
of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be parti-
cularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
--
This invention relates to improvements in machines which work with several
needles and a single thread, for the production of two or more rows of parallel
chain stitches out of a single thread, such as described in Patents Nos. 2482 of
June 27th 1877, No. 400 of January 31st 1879, and 2483 of May 25th 1882.
In these patents the length of the thread necessary for the formation of the
stitch was supplied by means of tongues or teeth which penetrate between the
needles. The operation of these tongues required a very complicated arrange-
ment which became still more delicate when it was required to use these tongues
in conjunction with machines in which the handle of the feed motion revolves
completely, such as in machines described in Patent 2483 of May 25th 1882.
Besides, it has always been very difficult to regulate the length of the stroke
of the tongues with enough precision to supply to the needles exactly the right
length of thread.
The object of the present invention is to do away entirely with the said
tongues.
In the ordinary embroidering machines which work with a single hook, the
latter draws its thread freely from the bobbin and draws by itself the right
length of thread for the formation of the stitch, for according to the hook being
set higher or lower, it draws a longer or shorter loop and thus produces a slacker
or tighter stitch.
It became therefore necessary to utilise this principle for the working with
several needles and a single thread, and we have resolved this question in the
following way;-
In Figure 1 of the annexed drawings, the hooks A, BC are represented in
the position when they have completed their descending motion; the thread is
presented to the hooks by the thread carrier D which may have an oscillating
or a revolving motion. Now, instead of letting these hooks ascend together and
all at the same time, each of them effects its ascending motion independently of
the others, so that the hook A draws first and alone its loop through the material E
(Fig. 2) whilst the hooks of needles B and C have not yet reached the material.
so that the hook A can draw its thread or loop freely from the bobbin and
when hook A has reached the end of its stroke only then does the hook B begin
its ascending motion. also drawing its thread freely from the bobbin (Fig. 3)
whilst the hook of the third needle C is not yet touching the material and only
then does the third needle C begin its motion for the formation of the stitch
(Fig. 4).
Each needle has thus drawn its thread freely from the bobbin and produces
far better work by means of an arrangement which is much simpler than those
described in the above mentioned patents.

page_text: This new arrangement is based on the principle of driving each needle by a
special heart-slide working independently of the others and each of the curves
of these heart slides is arranged in such a manner that when the main shaft
of the machine operates them each needle executes its motion at the required
moment and traverses the material alone with its loop.
Besides, it is necessary that the whole system of the independently working
needles should be governable by the crank handle of the machine, which operates
the feed, and this whilst the needles execute their motion. For this purpose the
whole system of needles must be able to turn around the centre of the central tube
of the machine.
Figure 5 represents the system of needle bars partly in view and partly in
section.
6
Figure represents a similar section at a right angle to Figure 5.
Each of the needle bars o p and q (Fig. 5) is maintained in its respective tube F, Fi
and by means of the screws (. The needle bar tubes FF1 and F2 receive an
up and down motion from heart slides G G and G2, the forks of which
penetrate into the collars c of tubes F F and F2.
The heart slides GG and G2 receive their motion from main shaft I by means
of eccentric K and roller H. This roller H projects into the cam grooves of heart
slides G G and G2, the curves of which are arranged in such manner that each
needle bar effects its up and down motion at the required moment.
The thinner portions of tubes F and F penetrate into tubes F and F and
can play therein during their up and down motion but they are forced to turn
all together, owing to the arrangement of flat surfaces or "flats" e in tubes Fi
and F (Fig. 6) against which similar flat surfaces of tubes are disposed to
abut. Similar surfaces are arranged in all tubes d and in central tube L so that
the turning motion of the crank handle is transmitted to the whole system of
needle bars by axle M and cog wheels N and O, and so the whole system turns
in conformity with the direction of the universal feed.
In Figures 7, 8 and 9, we have represented two needles which work below the
material, and upon the same principle as above explained, and shown in Figs. 1, 2
and 3 where three needles are employed.
These three needles produce three rows of chain stitches above the material
whilst the two needles which work underneath the material produce two rows
of chain stitches on the under side of the material whilst the seams shown in
Figures 10 and 11 appear upon the upper side of the material, viz. when the
thread carrier D effects a rotating motion around the needles, the seam shown
in Figure 10 is produced, and when the thread carrier effects an oscillating
motion a seam is obtained as shewn on Figure 11. In these two figures the full
lines represent the seams visible upon the upper side of the material and the
dotted lines represent the seams as they appear at the under side of the material.
When the needles work underneath the material as shown at Figures 7, 8
and 9, they can be employed in conjunction with the machines described in
Letters Patent No. 4603 of March 2nd 1893 and No. 21210 of November 8th 1895,
and in this case certain cords, braids, beads or other materials can be employed
either alone or combined together with others such as represented for instance,
on Figures 12, 13 and 14.
In Figure 12 the thread carrier D effects a rotating motion around nipple P
and winds its thread around needles A and B and around the braid as described
in Patent 21210 of Nov. 8th 1895, and thus secures this braid upon the material
by means of a double seam in the same manner as described in said patent in
regard to the single needle.
In Figure 13 the thread carrier D effects an oscillating motion around the
needles but in the interior of the central tube as described in Patent 4603 of
March 1893 in this case the seam produced upon the braid is a kind of zig-zag
which in Figure 14 is employed for securing two materials upon the cloth, which
work can also be obtained by the means shewn in Figure 12.

page_text: Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what
we claim is:-
(1). The production of two or more parallel chain stitch seams out of a single
thread by means of two or more crochet needles which work independently each
of the other in such a manner that the first needle takes hold of the thread and
draws it through the material before the following needle reaches the material
and so on for the other needles which can all in this manner each draw freely
from the bobbin the length of thread necessary for the formation of their stitch.
(2). The coupling of the different needle-bar tubes Fd in such a manner that
the thinner portion d may penetrate into the interior of the following tube F
wherein it is guided during its up and down motion and is turned in conformity
with the rotating motion of the crank-handle of the machine.
(3). The sewing of braids, cords, beads or other materials taken alone or com-
bined with other materials by the means and in the manner herein shown and
described.
Dated this Fourteenth day of July 1899.
For the Applicants,
GEDGE & FEENY,
Chartered Patent Agents, 60, Queen Victoria Street, London, E.C.