Iμ- PROVEMENTS IN APPARATUS FOR TAKING MEASUREMENTS
Year: 1865

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Clark, of 53, Chancery Lane, in the County
of Middlesex, Engineer and Patent Agent, for the. Invention of "Iμ-
PROVEMENTS IN APPARATUS FOR TAKING MEASUREMENTS."-A communication
from abroad by George Beard, of Salineville, Columbiana County, State.
of Ohio, United States of America.
Sealed the 8th December 1865, and dated the 16th August 1865.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Clark at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 16th
August 1865.
I, WILLIAM CLARK, of 53, Chancery Lane, in the County of Middlesex,
Engineer and Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature of the said Inven-
tion for "IMPROVEMENTS IN APPARATUS FOR TAKING MEASUREMENTS," to be as
follows:-
Fig. 1 represents a front view of a conformator made according to this
Invention for taking the measure of the human figure; Fig. 2 is a detail
view; Fig. 8 is an enlarged view of part of one of the divisions or sections
of the apparatus, made in order to show the mode of constructing them;
Fig. 4 is a pattern for one part of the front of a vest; Fig. 5 is a pattern for³

page_text: one nait of the Dack or a vest. Dimmar letters of reference indicate corre-
sponding parts.
The object of this Invention is to provide better means than have been
hitherto produced for taking measures for garments. The example here given
of this Invention is an apparatus for taking measures for apparel for a man,
but the principle of construction, and operation is such as makes the Invention
applicable both to taking peripherical measures of the male and female figure,
and of any other form or body.
The first part of this Invention is shown in Figs. 1, 2, and 3, and consists
in a conformator whose several parts are elastic, so as to become conformed
and adapted automatically both to the size and length of the figure enveloped
by it, having means also for automatically indicating the several degrees of
size and length.
The second part of this Invention consists in patterns with plane surfaces
to be laid upon the stuff to be cut, and having graduated arms branching
from the bodies of the patterns in those directions in which the measures are
taken by the conformator. These patterns are of the general outlines of the
garments to be cut, those shown in the Drawing being such as will be required
for cutting out vests.
F
A designates the conformator; it is made of a flexible or rigid material,
or partly of flexible and partly of rigid material. The example here given of
this part of the Invention represents a conformator adapted to take the
measure of the figure of the human body. The same principle of construction
is applied in making conformators for other figures, animate and inanimate.
Observing Fig. 1, B designates a main strand, which extends from the neck
band h down over the spine of the figure to the ground, having branches b, b,
which encircle the thigh and the knee respectively; D, D, designate two main
strands, which extend from the ends of the neck band h downwards alongside
of each other over the middle of the chest, and so on until they reach the
ground, where they are respectively passed beneath the feet of the subject,
and connected to the ends of the leg straps C, C, which extend downwards
from the waistband d. One of these straps C may start from the band dat
a point behind the hip, as in the case of strap C, seen in Fig. 1, and the
other from a point in front. Instead of passing the strands D under the feet,
and afterwards extending them upwards till they meet the straps C, they as
well as the straps C may be attached at their ends to stirrups (not here
shown), one for each foot, which stirrups may be flat and rigid, or flexible, so
as to conform to the foot. The main strand B is attached to one of the

page_text: stirrups alongside of the 'adjacent strand D. The main back strand B and
the front strands D, D, are connected to each other by means of bands a, a',
which terminate respectively at such points, or are attached to said back and
front strands at such points as are to be made the starting. points, and the
terminations of the circumferential or horizontal measurements of the body
E, E, are hollow .angular pieces made of some rigid material. They are
meant to fall beneath and. in front of the arms, and they form guides for
those bands a which pass from the back to the front of the person, and they
also form starting points for other bands, which may be carried across the
breast, or to the lower part of the chest, as in the case of the bands a', or to
the lower part of the back. The main front strands D, D, are brought
together and connected to each other by hooks or by buttons, or by means of
strings, the conformator being put on and off like a garment when the
fastenings of the strands D are undone. The separate divisions and sections
of the strands D, B, C, and of the bands a, a, a, b, d, h, and the whole
congeries of cords and bands which make up the conformator are made
separately elastic, so as to give and stretch between the points of attachment
when one puts it on his person, each division of each band and strand giving
and stretching for itself alone, independently of each and all the others by
means of the following construction:-Each of said bands and strands, is
made, double, that is, they are made of an inner band or strand f and an
outer l, see Fig. 3. In this example I have shown them as made of inner and
outer tubes, since that is a convenient form, and because they can so be kept
in their proper relations, and be less liable to displacement than when they
are merely placed one upon another. The bands and strands are severally
joined together at certain points or centres o, which occur at those positions
which are selected as points of departure and of termination in the measure-
ments to be taken. The outer tube or part of each baud or strand is fixed
at one of its ends to such a centre O, while the inner portion thereof; is fixed
at another such point or centre. The free ends of the parts e and pass ench
other, being drawn together by rubber bands g, or other elastic material, or
by suitable springs, whose ends are fastened to the points or centres O, and
which therefore constantly draw them toward each other, and consequently
cause the part e of the band or strand to override or cover the inner part f
The strength of these springs 9 is to be such as to draw the outer or upper
parts e close up to the points or centres to which the inner parts of the bands
and strands are fastened, thereby completely enveloping and concealing, the
latter when the conformator is in its normal condition. The said inner parts f

page_text: 4
are graduated with those degrees, and marks and figures of measurement
usual or suitable for the purpose required; and it will be observed that since
each division of each band and strand between the points or centres O is com-
posed of an inner and an outer part like the slides of telescopic tubes (each
inner tube or part f being graduated with the necessary marks for measure-
ment), therefore the separation of the said parts or tubes e and will expose
such marks of measurement between each point O of departure and termination,
and consequently the true measurement of the person between those points
will be automatically obtained. These divisions of the bands and strands of
the conformator which are to extend in straight lines, as the whole of the
strands B, C, D, D, and also such of the smaller bands as extend in straight
lines may be made of rigid or stiff material, such as metallic tubes or plates
fitting to and over each other, whilst such parts as from the configuration of
the body to be measured are required.to be bent to conform to the natural
curvatures should be made of flexible material..
.
The second part of my Invention relates to what may be called a key for
applying to use the measurements obtained from the several divisions of the
conformator. It consists of a pattern, which is to be made of the general
shape and outline of the garment to be cut out, the patterns or keys here
shown in Figures 4 and 5 being intended for cutting out vests or sleeveless
waistcoats. The letter G designates the pattern outline, for one half of a vest
front, and the letter O¹ designates the like for a back, H and P. being: straight
pieces fixed lengthwise thereon, for the purpose of securing the graduated
arms which extend in different directions towards and beyond the edges of
the patterns; these arms are placed on the upper surface of the patterns,
their inner ends being confined thereto by the said plates H, P, respectively.
Such of the arms as need to be moved or swung: along the edges of the
patterns should be pivotted, to permit them to be so moved, while those which
need not be moved, as, for instance, the arms I, W, in Fig. 4, can be fixed
permanently to the pattern. In the examples bere given of the mode of
making said keys or patterns, the arms M, N, J, K, L, of the pattern G, and
all the arms of the pattern 0¹, to wit, the arms Q, R, S, T, U, should be
made capable of motion about their points of attachment, as about centres
and graduations of measurement are marked on them in correspondence
with the graduations on the divisions of the conformator. It will be seen
from this construction, that if the pattern is laid down on the stuff to be cut,
the arm L will enable the cutter to transfer and mark upon the stuff the
proper, measurement of the corresponding part of the figure from the centre

page_text: of motion of such arm, such.centre of motion answering to the corresponding
centre or point O. of that division of the conformator whose measurement and!
whose position corresponds with the said arm L: The same. remark applies
to each of: said arms; whether they are fixed or movable. In addition to this
means of transferring the measures obtained by the conformator-I extend the
plate P upwards and downwards; and make graduations thereon at both ends,:
thereby making its ends answer the office of two additional arms. The like
may be done in the case of the plate H. In addition to the use here stated
of the said arms I am able to ascertain the measurement of a line drawn
from one degree on an arm or plate to the corresponding degree on the next
arm by means of a table of degrees made on that part of the pattern over,
which the last-mentioned arm moves, that is to say, I make a graduated table
of measurements on the pattern, consisting of three series; the middle one!
being made in the same order and of the same figure as the graduations on
the arm itself. This line of figures is made on a radial line drawn from the
centre of motion of the arm, say, of the arm U. To the right hand of this
line I make another scale of figures opposite to and parallel with the one
already mentioned, but differing therefrom in having its opposite figures one
unit less than those of the first-named scale, for instance, when the first-named
scale has the number 24 the right hand scale has the number 23, and so on
down the scale. Whereas on the left hand side a like parallel scale has the
nunibers one unit greater than the numbers of the first-mentioned scale. The
right-hand-scale is nearest to the fixed arm or plate P. Now, if the 'measure-
ment of that division of the conformator which corresponds with the arm U
has been ascertained, and if the measurement of that division which is
represented by the lower end of the arm P has been ascertained, I cair
ascertain the distance between the extreme points of such measurements by
swinging the arm U to the right or left of the middle scale of figures,'
according as the length of the measurement on the bar U is less or greater
than that on the plate P, that is to say, if the measurement on the line of the
plate P is 24, and that on the line of the bar U is 25, the bar is to be swung
outwards past the middle scale until it covers the figures 25 on the left hand,
or most remote scale, and so on for each degree of measurement. If the said
measurement is greater than that on the line of the bar U, the bar is moved
inwards until it covers those figures on the left hand scale, which are one unit
less than the measurement on the line of the plate P. When the bar U-has
been brought thus to its proper place, a line drawn from those figurès on the
plate P which indicate the measurement along its line to the like figures.ou³

page_text: the bar, will be the line of measurement around that part of the body which
lies between the points of the two first measurements.. The same method.
can be pursued for getting the horizontal measurements between any other
adjacent lines of longitudinal measurement; as, for instance, between the
arms' M, N, of Fig. 1. The arms M, N, and U, are shown in the Drawing
as covering the central scale of figures. Instead of making a central scale of
figures it will answer to make a line instead thereof, the movements of the bars.
being taken to the right or to the left of such line, according as the horizontal
measurement is to be shorter or longer than the figures indicated, or supposed
to be indicated on the central scale. The outer tubes or plates of each
division of the conformator can be numbered or lettered, for the purpose of
distinguishing one division from the other. Any arbitrary number or sign
may be adopted for this purpose.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed'
by the said William Clark in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
13th February 1866.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, WILLIAM
CLARK, of 53, Chancery Lane, in the County of Middlesex, Engineer and
Patent Agent, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Sixteenth day of August, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-five, in the twenty-ninth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the
said William Clark, Her special licence that I, the said William Clark, my
executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as 1, the said William
Clark, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during
the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise,
and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the
Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
APPARATUS FOR TAKING MEASUREMENTS," a communication to me from abroad
by George Beard, of Salineville, Columbiana County, State of Ohio, United
States of America, upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said
William Clark, my executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing
under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly

page_text: describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner
the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the.Great
Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the
date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said William Clark, do hereby declare
the nature of the 'said Invention, and in what manner the same is to. be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following:
statement, reference being had to the Sheet of Drawings hereunto annexed,
and to the letters and figures marked thereon (that is to say):-
i
Fig. 1 represents a conformator made according to this Invention, the parts.
in view being those which pass over the back of the body in the case of taking
the measure of the human figure; Fig. 2 represents it in front view; Figs. 3
and 4 are detail views of different parts; Fig. 5 is an enlarged view of part.
of one of the divisions or sections of the apparatus, made in order to show the:
mode of constructing them; Fig. 6 is a pattern for one part of the front of a
vest; Fig. 7 is a pattern for one half of the back of a vest. Similar letters of
reference indicate corresponding parts.
:
The object of this Invention is to provide better means than have hitherto:
been produced for taking measures for garments. The example here given.
of my Invention is an apparatus for taking measures for apparel for a man,
but the principle of construction and operation is such as makes the Invention
applicable both to taking peripherical measures of the male and female figure,:
and of any other form or body.
The first part of the Invention is shown in Figs. 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, and
consists in a conformator whose several parts are elastic, so as to become
couformed and adapted automatically both to the size and length of the figure
enveloped by it, having means also for automatically indicating the several
degrees of size and length.
The second part of this Invention consists in patterns with plane surfaces to
be laid upon the stuff to be cut, and having graduated arms branching from
the bodies of the patterns in those directions in which the measures are taken
by the conformator. These patterns are of the general outlines of the garments
to be cut, those shown in the Drawings being such as will be required for
cutting out vests.
A designates the conformator; it is made of a flexible or rigid material, or
partly of flexible and partly of rigid material. The example here given of this
part of the Invention represents a conformator adapted to take the measure of
the figure of the human body. The same principle of construction is applied

page_text: in making conformators for other figures, animate and inanimate. Observing
Fig. 1, B designates a main strand, which extends from the neck band h down
over the spine of the figure to the ground, having branches b, b, which encircle
the thigh and the knee respectively. D, D, designate two main strands, which
extend from the ends of the neck band h downwards alongside of each other
over the middle of the chest, and so on until they reach the ground, where
they are respectively passed beneath the feet of the subject, and connected. to
the ends of the leg straps C, C, which extend downwards from the waistband d;
one of these straps C may start from the band d at a point behind the hip, as
in the case of. strap. C seen in Fig. 1, and the other from a point in front.
Instead of passing the strands D under the feet, and afterwards extending
them upwards till they meet the straps C, they, as well as the straps C, may
be attached.at their ends to stirrups (not here shown), one for each-foot, which
stirrups may be flat and rigid or flexible, so as to conform to the foot. The
main strand B is attached to one of the stirrups alongside of the adjacent
strand. D. The main back strand B, and the front strands D, D, are con-
nected to each other by means of bands a, a, a, which terminate respectively
at such. points or are attached to said back and front strands at such points as
are to be made the starting points and the terminations of circumferential or
horizontal measurements of the body. E, E, are hollow angular pieces; made
of some rigid material; they are meant to fall beneath and in front of the
arms, and they form guides from those bands d which pass from the back to
the front of the person, and they also form starting points for other bands
which may be carried across the breast or to the lower part of the chest, as in
the case of the bands a¹, or to the lower part of the back, as in the case of the
bands a³. The main front strands D, D, are brought together and connected
to each other by hooks or by buttons, or by means of strings, the conformator
being put on and off like a garment when the fastenings of the strands D are
undone. The separate divisions and sections of the strands D, B, C, and of
the bands a, a, a, b, d, h, and the whole congeries of cords and bands which
make up the conformator, are made separately elastic, so as to give and stretch
between the points of attachment when one puts it on his person, each division
of each band and strand giving and stretching for itself alone independently
of each and all the others, by means of the following construction:-Each of
said bands and strands is made double, that is, they are made of an itiner
band or strand f and an outer e. In this example I have shown them as
made of inner and outer tubes, since that is a convenient form; and because
they can be so kept in their proper relations, and be less liable to displacement

page_text: than when they are merely placed one upon another: The bands and strands
are severally joined together at certain points or centres O, which occur at
those positions which are selected as points of departure and of termination in
the measurements to be taken. The outer tube or part of each band or
strand is fixed at one of its ends to such a centre O, while the inner portion f
thereof is fixed at another such a point or centre. The free ends of the parts e
and pass each other, being drawn together by rubber bands g or other elastic
material, or by suitable springs, whose ends are fastened to the points or
centres O, and which therefore constantly draw them toward each other, and
consequently cause the part e of the band or strand to override or cover the
inner part f. The strength of these springs 9 is to be such as to draw the
outer or upper parts e close up to the points or centres to which the inner
parts fof the bands and strands are fastened, thereby completely enveloping
and concealing the latter when the conformator is in its normal condition.
The said inner parts f are graduated with those degrees and marks and figures
of measurement usual or suitable for the purpose required; and it will be
observed, that since each division of each band and strand between the points
or centres O is composed of an inner and an outer part like the slides of
telescopic tubes, each inner tube or part f being graduated with the necessary
marks for measurement, therefore the separation of the said parts or tubes e and f
will expose such marks of measurement between each point O of departure and
termination, and consequently the true measurement of the person between
those points will be automatically obtained. Those divisions of the bands and
strands of the conformator which are to extend in straight lines as the whole
of the strands B, C, D, D, and also such of the smaller bands as extend in
straight lines, may be made of rigid or stiff material, such as metallic tubes or
plates, fitting to and over each otlier, whilst such parts as form the configuration
of the body, to be measured, and are required to be bent to conform to the
natural curvatures, should be made of flexible material.
The second part of this Invention relates to what may be called a "key" for
applying to use the measurenients obtained from the several divisions of the
conformator. It consists of a pattern, which is to be made of the general shape
and outline of the garment to be cut out, the patterns or keys here shown in
Figs. 6 and 7 being intended for cutting out vests or sleeveless waistcoats.
The letter G designates the pattern outline for one half of a vest front, and the
letter O designates the like for a back, H and P'being straight pieces fixed
lengthwise thereon for the purpose of securing the graduated arms which
extend in different directions towards and beyond the edges of the patterns.

page_text: These arms are placed on the upper surface of the patterns, their inner ends
being confined thereto by the said plates H, P, respectively. Such of the
arms as need to be moved or swung along the edges of the patterns should be
pivotted, to permit them to be so moved, while those which need not be moved,
as, for instance, the arms I, W, in Fig. 6, can be fixed permanently to the
pattern. In the examples here given of the mode of marking said keys or
patterns the arms M, N, J, K, L, of the pattern G, and all the arms of the
pattern O¹, to wit, the arms Q, R, S, T, U, should be made capable of motion
about their points of attachment, as about centres, the graduations of measure-
ment are marked on them in correspondence with the graduations on the
divisions of the conformator. It will be seen from this construction that if
the pattern is laid down on the stuff to be cut the arm L will enable the cutter
to transfer and mark upon the stuff the proper measurement of the corre-
sponding part of the figure from the centre of motion of such arm, such centre
of motion answering to the corresponding centre or point O of that division
of the conformator whose measurement and whose position corresponds with
the said arm L. The same remark applies to each of said armis, whether
they are fixed or movable. In addition to this means of transferring the
measures obtained by the conformator I extend the plate P upwards and
downwards, and make graduations thereon at both ends, thereby making its
ends answer the office of two additional arms. The like may be done in the
case of the plate II. In addition to the use here stated of the said arms
I am able to ascertain the measurement of a line drawn from one degree on
an arm or plate to the corresponding degree on the next arm by means of a
table of degrees made on that part of the pattern over which the last-mentioned
arm moves, that is to say, I make a graduated table of measurements on the
pattern, consisting of three series, the middle one being made in the same
order and of the same figures as the graduations on the arm itself. This line
of figures is made on a radial line drawn from the centre of motion of the
arm, say of the arm U. To the right hand of this line I make another scale
of figures opposite to and parallel with the one already mentioned, but
differing therefrom in having its opposite figures one unit less than those of
the first-named scale; for instance, when the first-named scale has the
number 24 the right hand scale has the number 23, and so on down the scale,
whereas on the left hand side a like parallel scale has the numbers one unit
greater than the numbers of the first-mentioned scale. The right hand scale
is nearest to the fixed arin or plate P. Now, if the measurement of that
division of the conformator which corresponds with the arm U has been

page_text: ascertained, and if the measurement of that division which is represented by
the lower end of the arm P has been ascertained, I can ascertain the distance
between the extreme points of such measurements by swinging the arm U to
the right or left of the middle scale of figures, according as the length of the
measurement on the bar U is less or greater than that on the plate P; that
is to say, if the measurement on the line of the plate P is 24, and that on the
line of the bar U is 25, the bar is to be swung outward past the middle scale
until it covers the figure 25 on the left hand or most remote scale, and so on
for each degree of measurement. If the said measurement is greater than
that on the line of the bar U, the bar is moved inwards until it covers those
figures on the left hand scale which are one unit less than the measurement
on the line of the plate P. When the bar U has been brought thus to its
proper place, a line drawn from those figures on the plate P, which indicate
the measurement along its line to the like figures on the bar, will be the line
of measurement around that part of the body which lies between the points of
the two first measurements. The same method can be pursued for getting
the horizontal measurements between any other adjacent lines of longitudinal
measurement; as, for instance, between the arms M, N, of Fig. 1. The
arms M, N, and U are shown in the Drawing as covering the central scales
of figures. Instead of making a central scale of figures it will answer to
make a line instead thereof, the movements of the bars being taken to the
right or to the left of such line, according as the horizontal measurement is to
be shorter or longer than the figures indicated or supposed to be indicated on
the central scale. The outer tubes or plates of each division of the conformator
can be numbered or lettered for the purpose of distinguishing one division
from the other. Any arbitrary number or sign may be adopted for this
purpose.
Having described the nature of this Invention, and the manner of per-
forming the same, I-declare that what I claim as the Invention to be protected
by the herein-before in part recited Letters Patent is,―
First, in conformators for taking measurements of the human frame and
other bodies, making them in divisions, each of which acts independently of
the others, having its own point of departure and its own terminal point,
substantially as described.
Secondly, I also claim in conformators for taking peripherical measure-
ments making them elastic in all directions, substantially as described.
Thirdly, I claim constructing the divisions of conformators of a yielding and
elastic body, and of telescopic or sliding tubes or plates moving within or

page_text: upon each other, the inner tube or plate being graduated, as shown, sub-
stantially as described.
Fourthly, I also claim the pieces E, E, coming in front of and beneath the
shoulder for gathering and holding those divisions which are brought over thè
shoulder, substantially as described.
ויין -
Fifthly, I also claim keys or patterns for laying off measurements upon
the stuff to be cut, constructed and operated substantially as shown in
Figs. 6 and 7.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Clark, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Thirteenth day of February, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-six.
Witness,
JAMES DAISHI,
53, Chancery Lane,
London.
(L.B.)