IMPROVEMENTS IN FASTENINGS FOR WEARING APPAREL
Year: 1844

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, JAMES
GEORGE NEWEY, of Birmingham, in the County of Warwick, Hook and Eye
Manufacturer, and JAMES NEWMAN, of the same place, Jeweller, send
greeting.
2
WHEREAS Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Royal Letters Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date at
Westminster, the Third day of July, in the eighth year of Her reign, did, for
Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto us, the said James
George Newey and James Newman, Her especial licence, full power, solo
privilege and authority, that we, the said James George Newey and James
Newman, our exors, adñiors, and assigns, or such others as we, the said
James George Newey and James Newman, our exors, admors, or assigns,
should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all
times during the term of years therein expressed, should and lawfully might
make, use, exercise, and vend, within England, Wales, and the Town of
Berwick-upon-Tweed, our Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN FASTENINGS FOR
WEARING APPAREL;" in which said Letters Patent is contained a proviso

page_text: that we, the said James George Newey and James Newman, or one of us.
shall cause a particular description of the nature of our said Invention, and
in what manner the same is to be performed, to be inrolled in Her said
Majesty's High Court of Chancery within six calendar months next and
immediately after the date of the said in part recited Letters Patent, as
in and by the same, reference being thereunto had, will more fully and at
large appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, we, the said
James George Newey and James Newman, do hereby declare that the nature
of our said Invention, and the manner in which the same is to be performed,
are fully described and ascertained in and by the following statement thereof,
reference being had to the Drawings hereunto annexed, and to the figures
and letters marked thereon, that is to say:
First, a mode of making the holding parts of perforated double buttons for
braces and other uses.
Secondly, our Invention consists of a mode of making perforated buttons by
enclosing a bar across the central openings of such buttons for braces and
other purposes.
Thirdly, our Invention consists in forming an oblong hollow at the back of
a button, and applying the shank of wire or other material across such
hollow.
Fourthly, our Invention consists of a mode of making what are called sewn-
through buttons, by applying an external metal ring, so that each button will
consist of a centre of any desired fabric, and an edge or external ring of
metal.
Fifthly, our Invention consists of attaching two buttons (or suitable fasteners
for a coat or other garment) by means of an elastic attachment.
Sixthly, our Invention consists of a mode of making perforated buttons by
causing the central bar to be covered with another thickness of metal.
Seventhly, our Invention consists of a novel construction of hooks and
eyes.
Eighthly, our Invention consists of a fastener for straps to trowsers and
other garments.
Ninthly, our Invention consists of a fastener for straps of trowsers and
other garments.
Tenthly, our Invention consists of a fastener for straps of trowsers and
other garments. And,
Eleventhly, our Invention consists of certain constructions of button
fasteners.

page_text: DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.
Figure 1 shows a front view, a section, and a back view of a perforated
button, constructed according to the first part of our Invention. Figure 2
shows a plan and section of the front shell, of which each of the buttons is
partly composed. Figure 3 shows a plan and section of the back shell, of
which each button is partly composed; and Figure 4 shows a section of the
two shells placed together ready to be finished by closing the edge of the front
shell over the back of the back shell. The two shells a and b having been
cut out into discs, and the holes formed therethrough, the shells are to be
formed in suitable dies, and the central parts c of each shell come together,
thus forming a bar across the opening in which the finishing tools (for closing
the parts together) are to be kept smooth and even, so as to make a strong
hollow bar, constituting the requisite shank or means of fixing it to a garment.
Figure 3 shows a plan and section of another button, having three holes, the
bar c being formed in each front and back shell, as is shewn. Figure 4*
shows another arrangement of this construction of buttons having four holes
through, in which case there is a cross c across the central opening of the
button; these buttons being each made of two shells, which are rendered
concave in suitable dies, and close together, as is well understood in making
other construction of buttons.
We will now describe the second part of our Invention, which consists in
making perforated metal buttons of two shells, having a single bar across.
Figure 5 shows a front view, a section, and back view of a button constructed
according to this part of our Invention. Figure 6 shows a plan and section
of the front shell. Figure 7 shows a plan and section of the back shell;
these are made in dies, as is well understood when making metal buttons.
Figure 8 shows a section of the two shells placed together, ready to be closed
by suitable dics, the bar c being held in position by the form of the interior of
the lower die. Figure 9 shows a plan and edge view of the single bar, the
shape of which may be varied, to be fixed across the central opening of the
button. In closing these parts together the shell d is to be placed into the
lower die, then the bar c is to be placed into its position, the lower die being
properly formed in the centre to receive it, then the back shell is to be placed
in its position, and the punch will gather over the edge of the front shell and
press it on the back of the button.
We will now describe the third part of our Invention, which consists in

page_text: forming a hollow channel in the back of a button; across this channel the
shank of wire or other material is formed as hereafter explained. Figure 10
shows a back view, a front view, and a section of a metal button, con-
structed according to this part of our Invention; the button, with the
exception of the back channel and shank, being of an ordinary construction,
which is well understood by button makers; the back shell f is indented
into an oblong channel g, across which the shank h of wire is placed as is
shewn, and it is this channel, with a shank placed across it, which constitutes
the peculiarity of construction of this button; and we would state, that, as the
back shell f is similar to what is used in making covered buttons, this mode
of making shanks across channels in such back shells is equally applicable to
covered buttons, in substitution of the metal shanks and flexible shanks
now used. Figure 11 shews a section and plan of the front shell of this
button; Figure 12 shows a plan and section of the back shell; and Figure 13
shows the back shell and section thereof, with the wire shank applied, and the
ends flattened in the shell. Figure 14 shows a plan and section of a button,
of china or other material, for the front thereof, using a similar back metal
shell to that just described; and the back shell is so formed as to have its
edge closed in the circumference of the china or other similar front.
Fire 15 shows an external and internal view, and also a section of the back
shell. In this case the channel is made on either side of the shank, which is
part of the metal of the back shell. In some cases we form a similar oblong
channel at the back of china or other composition buttons, forming a shank
either by wire or of china, or other material, across the oblong channel.
Figure 16 shows a front view, a section, and a back view of a button or other
material, having a metal shank applied. Figure 17 shews a section and back
view of the button without the shank; and Figure 18 shows the back shield
of metal, and also the metal shank before it is opened, the shank being passed
through the button and through the metal shiels before it is opened. Figure 19
shows a front view, a back view, a section, and an edge view of a china or
other button, having an oblong channel at the back, with the shank made
across the channel or channels when making the button, the whole being of
china or other material; the workman in forming the shank and channel taking
care that the edges of the shank across the channel or channels are smooth,
so as not to cut the thread by which it may be affixed to a garment.
We will now describe the fourth part of our Invention, which has for its
object the making of what are called sewn-through buttons, with metal rings
or hedges, and centres of fabric. Figure 20 shews a plan and section of a
button according to this part of our Invention. Figure 21 shows a plan and

page_text: section of a shell i, having one or more discs of fabric j, according to the
strength desired, and the button is finished by pressing the edge of the shell
by proper dies, so that the shell is formed into a hollow ring around the fabric
employed; the edges of the shell being pressed together, securely hold the
fabric. Figure 22 shows a plan, a section, and detail views of another similar
button, but in this case a wire ring is introduced and shut within the hollow
ring i, by which greater strength is obtained and the central fabric will be
more securely held.
We will now describe the fifth part of our Invention. Figure 23 shows a
section through two buttons connected by a chain, each button having a spring
therein to allow of elasticity between the two buttons or holders. Figure 24,
shows the interior of the buttons. 7 is a chain by which the buttons are con-
nected. The buttons or fastenings may be varied so long as they are connected
by a chain or cord acted on by a spring or springs m. Figure 24 shows
fastener, consisting of two buttons or other
hollow flexible tube containing a wire spring,
another arrangement of coat
proper holders connected by
the springs being affixed to the buttons or fastenings.
We will now describe the sixth part of our Invention. Figure 25 shows a
front view, a section, and a back view of a button made according to this part
of the Invention; and Figure 26 shows a front view and section of the button
before applying the additional thickness of metal around the central bar n.
There is no novelty in the construction of the button itself, the improvement
consisting in adding the covering or strengthening plate o around the central
bar n, and the character or construction of the button may be varied.
We will now describe the seventh part of our Invention, which relates to
the making of hooks and eyes. Figure 27 shows a plan and edge view of a
hook and eye constructed according to our Invention. Figure 28 shows the
hook and eye separate. p is the hook, the shape of the stem of which may
be varied, as shewn by dotted lines, the hook portion being open, so as to
allow the projection 9 of the eye to pass between the two sides of the hook;
and it is this peculiarity of the hook and eye which constitutes the novelty of
this part of our Invention.
We will now describe the eighth part of our Invention, which relates to the
strap fastener; Figure 29 shows the two parts of the fastener combined;
Figure 30 is an edge view partly in section; and Figure 31, shews a side and
edge view of that part which is affixed to the strap. In the part r, which is
affixed to the trowsers, is a slot s cut therein. t is the part which is affixed
to a strap, and it has a projection which can pass through the slot s, when

page_text: the strap is raised into a horizontal position, as shewn by red lines; but the
same will hold secure under all other circumstances; or the form of the slot
may be varied so as to allow of the strap being removed before it gets to a
horizontal position.
We will now describe the ninth part of our Invention. Figure 32 repre-
sents various views of a fastener for straps for trowsers and other garments.
u is a plate to be attached to the trowsers, and the plate w is to be fixed to a
strap. The plate u has an opening through it, which, at the larger part,
allows the projection w¹ on the upper part of the plate w to pass through, and
then when the projection descends in the smaller part of the opening the
lateral projections w² prevent the plates u and w separating; and to prevent
the parts moving the spring x is applied, which, pressing on the projection w¹
prevents it moving; and it is the application of the spring a which constitutes
the peculiarity of the Invention.
We will now describe the tenth part of our Invention. Figure 33 shows
the parts of the fastener combined. Figure 34 shews the parts separately. y is
the part attached to the trowsers, and is the part attached to a strap. The
part has a hole through and projections =¹, and the part y has holes y', hence
these parts will not separate when pressed on.
We will now describe the eleventh part of our Invention. Figure 55
shews one of our button fasteners, which consists of a spring, with an indent
in the centre, hence, when the fastener is pressed through the shank of a
button, the leg (1) passed through, the shank will be pressed into such a
position as to allow the shank to pass beyond it and under the other leg, and then
the leg passed through, the shank will spring out and the button will be secured.
Figure 36 shews an edge view and plan of another button fastener. In order
to pass this fastener into the shank of a button, the two ends of the legs are
to be pressed together, and when the shank comes to the bent part (2), the legs
will spring out and the button will be held. Figure 37 shews another of our
button fasteners similar to the preceding one, but not bent or cranked; the
button will be held in the bends (3). Figure 38 shews an edge view and plan
of another. of our button fasteners; the point at (4) is passed through the shank
of a button, and the button will be retained by the bends at (5). Figure 39
shews an edge and side view of another of our button fasteners; it passes
through the shank of a button by its point (6), and is retained secure in the
bend (7). Figure 40 shews a side and edge view of another of our button
fasteners; it passes through the button shank by the point (7) till the point
(8) projects beyond the shank, and the button will be retained in its place by

page_text: the stem (9). Figure 41 shews an edge view and plan of another of our
button fasteners; it passes through the shank of a button by its point (10),
and retains the button by the crank or bend at (11).
Having thus described the nature of our Invention, and the best means we
are acquainted with for performing the same, we would have it understood
that we do not confine ourselves to the precise details shewn, so long as the
peculiar character of either part of our Invention be retained.
it to be understood that what we claim is,
And we wish
First, the mode of making perforated double brace buttons as described in
respect to Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, and Figures 3" and 4".
Secondly, we claim the mode of making perforated double buttons by
applying a single bar, as described in respect to Figures 5, 6, 7, and 8.
Thirdly, we claim the mode of constructing the backs of buttons with
oblong channels formed therein, with shanks across, as described in respect to
Figures 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, and 19.
Fourthly, we claim the mode of making what are called sewn-through
buttons, as described in respect to Figures 20, 21, and 22.
Fifthly, we claim the application of springs to fasteners for coats and other
garments, as described in respect to Figures 23, 24, and 24*.
Sixthly, we claim the mode of making perforated buttons by applying a
covering or extra thickness of metal to the central bar, as described in respect
to Figures 25 and 26.
Seventhly, we claim the peculiar construction of hook and eye described in
respect to Figures 27 and 28.
Eighthly, we claim the construction of strap fastener for trowsers and other
garments, as described in respect to Figures 29, 30, and 31.
Ninthly, we claim the construction of strap fastener for trowsers and other
garments, described in respect to Figure 32.
Tenthly, we claim the construction of strap fastener for trowsers and other
garments described, in Figures 33 and 34. And,
Eleventhly, we claim the construction of button fasteners described in
respect to Figures 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, and 41.
In witness whereof, we, the said James George Newey and James
Newman, have hereunto set our hands and seals, this Second day of
January, in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and
forty-five.
JAMES GEORGE (L.S.) NEWEY.
JAMES (L.S.)
(L.S.) NEWMAN.

page_text: AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the Second day of January, in the
year of our Lord 1845, the aforesaid James George Newey and James
Newman came before our said Lady the Queen in Her Chancery, and
acknowledged the Specification aforesaid, and all and every thing therein
contained and specified, in form above written. And also the Specification.
aforesaid was stamped according to the tenor of the Statute made for that
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