An Improved Adjustable Pattern for Drafting Garments.
Year: 1892

page_text: Date of Application (in United Kingdom), 13th May, 1892
Complete Specification Left, 13th May, 1892-Accepted, 10th Dec., 1832
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
An Improved Adjustable Pattern for Drafting Garments.
I, BERTHA MUSSE, of 172 West Twenty Third Street, in the City, County and
State of New York, United States of America, Dressmaker, do hereby declare the
nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
My invention relates to improvements in patterns such as are used in making
sacques, basques, waists, and analogous garments; and the object of my invention
is to produce a simple and convenient pattern which may be accurately adjusted to
fit people of different sizes
To this end my invention consists in certain features of construction and
combinations of parts, which will be hereinafter described and claimed.
Reference is to be had to the accompanying drawings, forming a part of this
Specification, in which similar letters of reference indicate corresponding parts in
all the views.
Figure 1 is a plan view of the front piece of the pattern.
Fig. 2 is a plan view of the back piece.
Fig. 3 is a plan view of the back side piece.
Fig. 4 is a plan view of the sleeve.
Fig. 5 is a plan view of the front side piece.
Figs. 6 and 7 are plans of the collar pieces.
Figs. 8 and 9 are broken detail views in plan and cross section, showing the slots
and perforations in the body of the patterns.
Fig. 10 is a detail view of one of the hinges.
Fig. 11 is a plan of a pad piece.
Fig. 12 is a broken detail view showing the manner in which the hinged sections
of the pattern fold together; and
Fig. 13 is a detail sectional view showing the manner in which the sections of
the pattern are held together, so as to slide one upon the other.
The various parts of the pattern are made up, preferably, of sheet metal, and
the patterns may be given any desired contour, according to the nature of the
garment to be cut from them, and my invention consists in the manner in which
the various sections are united and arranged. The patterns are used in the ordinary
manner; that is by laying them on the cloth to be cut and marking around their
edges with tailors chalk; also stencilling through the perforations with powdered
chalk.
The front piece is made up of two sections 10 and 10, which are united by
hinges 14, so that they may fold one upon the other, and the adjustable parts 11
and 11, which are also hinged together by hinges 14, and which connect with the
parts 10 and 10 respectively, by means of slots 12 in the parts 11 and 11*, which
slots are arranged laterally and receive rivets 13, which are secured to the parts 10
and 10, and which thus permit the front and rear portions of the front piece to be
adjusted in relation to each other, so as to adapt the front piece as a whole to a
large or small garment.

page_text: The back side piece (shown in Fig. 3) is made up of sections 17 and 17*, which
are united by an intermediate section 18, the latter being hinged to the part 17,
and the section 18 is connected to the section 17 by means of slots 12 and rivets 13
like those already described, except that in this case the slots are arranged
vertically instead of laterally, so as to permit the back side piece to be adjusted as
to its length. The back piece shown in Fig. 2 is made up substantially like the
back side piece above described, the top section 19 being connected with the lower
section 19 by means of an intervening section 20, which is hinged to the part 19,
and the lower end 19ª is adjusted in relation to the section 20 by means of a
slot 12 and rivet 13.
..
The sleeve 21 (shown in Fig. 4) is composed of four sections united substantially
like the front piece shown in Fig. 1, the main portion 22 having the lower end 22*
hinged to it and the side sections 23 and 23* being adjustably united to the parts 22
and 22 by means of slots 12 and rivets 13 in the manner already described. It
will thus be seen that the sleeve may be made larger or smaller, as desired, by
simply adjusting the parts 23 and 23* in relation to the parts 22 and 22º.
The front side piece (shown in Fig. 5) is made up substantially like the back
side piece and the back, it consisting of a main lower section 25, an upper
section 25, and an intervening section 26, adjustably connected to the part 25 by
means of rivets and slots, as described above, and the part 26 is hinged to the
part 25 by a hinge 14. The collar pieces 28 are of the usual kind, the two united
pieces forming a complete collar, and in Fig. 11 I have shown a pattern from
which a pad may be cut to go beneath the arms. The main parts of the pattern-
that is, the front, the side pieces, the back, and the sleeve-are all provided with
slots and perforations 15, which are arranged so that the cloth from which the
garment is cut may be conveniently marked through said slots and perforations to
indicate where the garment is to be taken up,
In the main section or front piece, Fig. 1, these slots and perforations 15 are
arranged longitudinally in the pattern in curved lines, and a row of the slots or
perforations 15 extend, also, the entire length of the section 10 10° adjacent to its
front edge. These slots and perforations 15 are also arranged on the sleeve piece,
as shown in Fig. 4. The main section or front piece (shown in Fig. 1) is also
provided with a diagonal row of perforations 16, which adapts it for use when a
pointed basque is to be cut, and the back side piece, back, and front side piece are
provided with extensions of this row marked in the drawings 16, 16 and 16.
In Figs. 10 and 12 the construction of the hinge is shown clearly, and the hinge
is of a common form; but it will be understood that any desired form may be used.
This pattern will be made up in several sizes, and each side, by reason of its lateral
and longitudinal adjustment, may be made to cut several sizes of garments.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is
A pattern comprising the front and back pieces, the front piece formed of upper
and lower sections 10 10 and parts 11 11", each section overlapping at its rear edge
the parts 1111* and having a sliding connection therewith, as at 12 13, the back
piece comprising upper and lower sections 19 19 and intermediate sections 20,
having a sliding connection, as at 12 13, with the sections 19, and the front and
back side pieces formed of similarly connected sections 17, 18, 17%, and 25, 25*,
and 26, respectively, as shown and described.
Dated this 13th day of May 1809
F. W. BARKER,
Applicant's Agent.