IMPROVEMENTS IN FASTENINGS FOR SHIRT STUDS, SLEEVE LINKS, SOLITAIRES, AND OTHER ARTICLES OF JEWELLERY AND DRESS, WHICH IMPROVEMENTS ARE ALSO APPLICABLE TO KNOBS AND HANDLES AND OTHER PARTS OF ARTICLES WHICH REQUIRE TO BE REMOVEABLE."
Year: 1871

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to John Wall, of Birmingham, in the County of
Warwick, Jeweller, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN FASTENINGS
FOR SHIRT STUDS, SLEEVE LINKS, SOLITAIRES, AND OTHER ARTICLES OF
JEWELLERY AND DRESS, WHICH IMPROVEMENTS ARE ALSO APPLICABLE TO KNOBS
AND HANDLES AND OTHER PARTS OF ARTICLES WHICH REQUIRE TO BE
REMOVEABLE."
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said John Wall at the Office
of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 12th
July 1871.
I, JOHN WALL, of Birmingham, in the County of Warwick, Jeweller,
do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS
IN FASTENINGS FOR SHIRT STUDS, SLEEVE LINKS, SOLITAIRES, AND OTHER ARTICLES
OF JEWELLERY AND DRESS, WHICH IMPROVEMENTS ARE ALSO APPLICABLE TO KNOBS
AND HANDLES AND OTHER PARTS OF ARTICLES WHICH REQUIRE TO BE REMOVEABLE,"
to be as follows:-
My Invention consists of the combinations or arrangements herein-
after described of the parts of the fastenings of the said articles,

page_text: whereby great security in the fastening is obtained, together with facility
in use.
I will describe my Invention as applied to a shirt stud or solitaire.
The said stud or solitaire is made in two parts, constructed and fastened
together and unfastened from one another in the following manner :-
One of the parts of the stud or solitaire consists of a flat or ornamental
button or hollow disk, and the other part consists of a tubular shank
having at one end a disk and at the opposite end a cross bar. The first-
named part I will call the button and the other part the shank. In the
centre of the back of the button is a cross slot opening into the interior
of the button, the said cross slot having a size and shape proper to
permit of the passage through it of the cross bar at the bottom of the
shank part of the stud or solitaire. In the axis of the cross slot is
a hole of a size proper to receive the shank. In the tubular shank is a
coiled spring, and around the exterior of the shank is a sliding collar,
the said spring pressing the collar towards the cross bar of the shank.
When it is wished to fasten the stud or solitaire to the shirt or article
of dress the shank is first put through the button hole, the shank
projecting from the said button hole. The button part is then presented
to the shank so that its cross slot is coincident with the cross bar of the
said shank. By now pressing the button on to the shank the cross bar
enters the button and by turning the button through a quarter rotation
the said cross bar is removed from opposite the slot in the button, and
made to engage under the uncut away part of the said button. When
the shank enters the button the collar on the shank is raised thereon
and its spring compressed, the action of the said spring pressing upwards
the shank and making its cross bar bear against the inside of the button.
In the interior of the button are inclines or projections with which
when the button is partly rotated the ends of the cross bar of the shank
engage. The said inclines or projections are situated on opposite sides
of the slot, and when the button is partly rotated the ends of the cross
bar slide up the said inclines and snap or engage behind them. Stops
are also provided for limiting the motion of the two parts. To separate
the two parts of the stud or solitaire the button is pressed inwards so
as to disengage the cross bar of the shank from behind the inclines in
the button; the button can now be partly rotated and its slot brought
opposite the cross bar of the shank, when the button may be withdrawn
from the shank, and the two parts of the stud or solitaire disconnected
from one another. In some articles the motion may be given to the
"

page_text: shank part to engage it with or disengage it from the button part. The
sliding collar on the shank may be dispensed with. In this case a stop
is fixed inside the button part, against which stop the end of the shank
bears, the cross bar being on the fixed part of the shank, the extreme
end of the shank sliding within the part carrying the cross bar. Or the
shank and cross bar may be made solid and without any sliding part.
In this case the required springing action is obtained by making the
stop on the bottom part against which the shank bears clastic, so that
it may effect the required pressure against the end of the shank. When
the two parts of the article require to be capable of rotation upon onc
another when fastened together, I make the connecting parts tubular.
the end of one tubular part fitting inside the end of the other part. The
larger tubular part has a spring tongue with a hooked end, and the other
or smaller tubular part has at a short distance in its interior an annular
shoulder. When the two parts are presented to each other and pressed
together, the hooked end of the spring tongue snaps behind the shoulder
described and the two parts are secured together. To disconnect the
two parts it is only necessary to press upon a stud or head connected
with the spring tongue when the hooked end of the said tongue is
liberated from the shoulder and the two parts are disengaged.
Besides being applicable to fastenings for articles of dress and dress
ornaments, my Invention is also applicable to the connecting and dis-
connecting of knobs and handles, and parts of articles which require to
be removeable for cleaning or other purpose, such as the knobs or
handles of dish covers, the knobs of the lids of tea and coffee pots,
butter dishes, and similar articles.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said John Wall in the Great Seal Patent Office on
the 9th January 1872.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JOHN
WALL, of Birmingham, in the County of Warwick, Jeweller, send
greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Twelfth day of July, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-one, in the thirty-fifth

page_text: year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and
grant unto me, the said John Wall, Her special licence that I, the
said John Wall, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such
others as I, the said John Wall, my executors, administrators, and
assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time
and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should
and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United
Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of
Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN FASTENINGS FOR SHIRT STUDS,
SLEEVE LINKS, SOLITAIRES, AND OTHER ARTICLES OF JEWELLERY AND DRESS, WHICH
IMPROVEMENTS ARE ALSO APPLICABLE TO KNOBS AND HANDLES AND OTHER PARTS OF
ARTICLES WHICH REQUIRE TO BE REMOVEABLE," upon the condition (amongst
others) that I, the said John Wall, my executors or administrators, by
an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and
seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said
Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and
cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six
calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters
Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said John Wall, do hereby declare
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement thereof, that is to say :-
My Invention consists of the combinations or arrangements herein-
after described of the parts of the fastenings of the said articles whereby
great security in the fastening is obtained together with facility in
use.
I will describe my Invention as applied to a shirt stud or solitaire.
The said stud or solitaire is made in two parts, constructed and fastened
together and unfastened from one another in the following manner :—
One of the parts of the stud or solitaire consists of a flat or ornamental
button or hollow disk, and the other part consists of a tubular shank
having at one end a disk and at the opposite end a cross bar. The
first-named part I will call the button and the other part the shank.
In the centre of the back of the button is a cross slot opening into the
interior of the button, the said cross slot having a size and shape proper
to permit of the passage through it of the cross bar at the bottom of
the shank part of the stud or solitaire. In the axis of the cross slot

page_text: is a hole of a size proper to receive the shank. In the tubular shank
is a coiled spring, and around the exterior of the shank is a sliding
collar, the said spring pressing the collar towards the cross bar of the
shank. When it is wished to fasten the stud or solitaire to the shirt or
article of dress the shank is first put through the button hole, the shank
projecting from the said button hole. The button part is then pre-
sented to the shank so that its cross slot is coincident with the cross bar
of the said shank. By now pressing the button on to the shank the
cross bar enters the button, and by turning the button through a
quarter rotation the said cross bar is removed from opposite the slot in
the button and made to engage under the uncut away parts of the
said button. When the shank enters the button the collar on the said
shank is raised thereon and its spring compressed, the action of the said
spring pressing upwards or outwards the shank, and making its cross
bar bear against the inside of the button. In the interior of the button
are inclines or projections, with which when the button is partly
rotated the ends of the cross bar of the shank engage. The said
inclines or projections are situated on opposite sides of the slot, and
when the button is partly rotated the ends of the cross bar slide up the
said inclines and snap or engage behind them. Stops are also provided
for limiting the motion of the two parts. To separate the two parts of
the stud or solitaire the button is pressed inwards so as to disengage
the cross bar of the shank from behind the inclines in the button. The
button can now be partly rotated and its slot brought opposite the cross
bar of the shank, when the button may be withdrawn from the shank
and the two parts of the stud or solitaire disconnected from one another.
In some articles the motion may be given to the shank part to engage
it with or disengage it from the button part. The sliding collar on the
shank may be dispensed with. In this case a stop is fixed inside the
button part against which stop the end of the shank bears, the cross bar
being on the fixed part of the shank, the extreme end of the shank
sliding within the part carrying the cross bar. Or the shank and
cross bar may be made solid and without any sliding part. In this
case the required springing action is obtained by making the stop
on the button part against which the shank bears elastic, so that it
may effect the required pressure against the end of the shank. When
the two parts of the article require to be capable of rotation upon
one another when fastened together, I make the connecting parts tubular,
the end of one tubular part fitting inside the end of the other part.

page_text: the other or smaller tubular part has at a short distance in its interior
an annular shoulder. When the two parts are presented to each other
and pressed together, the hooked end of the spring tongue snaps behind
the shoulder described, and the two parts are secured together. To
disconnect the two parts it is only necessary to press upon a stud or
head connected with the spring tongue when the hooked end of the
spring tongue is liberated from the shoulder and the two parts are
disengaged.
Besides being applicable to fastenings for articles of dress and dress
ornaments, my Invention is also applicable to the connecting and
disconnecting of knobs and handles, and parts of articles which require
to be removeable for cleaning or other purpose such as the knobs or
handles of dish covers, the knobs of the lids of tea and coffee pots,
butter dishes, and similar articles.
Having explained the nature of my Invention I will proceed to
describe with reference to the accompanying Drawing the manner in
which the same is to be performed.
Figure 1 represents in side elevation a shirt stud or solitaire con-
structed according to one of the arrangements of my Invention, the
button part and shank part of the stud or solitaire being 'connected
together, Figure 2 is a vertical section of the same, and Figure 3 is also
a section of the same taken on the line a, Figure 2; Figure 4 is a
similar section to Figure 3, the shank part of the stud or solitaire being
represented in the act of being connected to or disconnected from the
button part; Figures 5 and 6 represent the several pieces of which the
button part of the stud or solitaire is composed, and Figures 7 and 8
represent the several pieces of which the shank part of the stud or
solitaire is composed. The same letters of reference indicate the same
parts in Figures 1 to 8.
The button part of the stud or solitaire consists of a button or hollow
shell b, in the centre of the back of which is a cross slot and central hole
at c (see the back elevation Figure 5). The said cross slot and hole c is
made in the disk or plate d. This disk or plate is shown separately in
plan and edge view in Figure 6. On the inner side of the plate d are
two inclines e, e, situated at opposite sides of the slot c, and between the
said inclines are stops f, f. Over the back or inner side of the plate d,

page_text: the shell or cover g (shown separately in Figure 6) is soldered, and the
combined plate and shell d, g, is soldered over a hole in the back
plate of the button 6 before the said back plate 62 is fixed to the
button or shell b. The shank part of the stud or solitaire consists of a
tube h, having at one end the disk i, and at the opposite end a cross
bar k. The tubular shank is of a size and shape proper to enter
the central hole in the back of the button b, and the cross bar k is
of a size and shape proper to enter the cross slot c in the said part b.
On the exterior of the tubular shank ha sliding collar works, the said
collar being pressed towards the cross bark by the coiled spring m, in
the tubular shank h (see the longitudinal section, Figure 7). The
shank and sliding collar are represented detached in Figure 8.
disk part of the sliding collar is provided with a cross piece *, which
serves as an abutment for the coiled spring m, and the said cross
piece works in the side slots at ³ in the sides of the shank / (see
Figure 8). The cross bar k of the shank is connected to the said
shank by closing the forked end of the shank upon the bark and
fixing it by soldering.
The
To fasten the stud or solitaire to the shirt or article of dress the
shank of the shank part h, i, l, of the stud or solitaire is passed
through the button hole. The button part is thus presented to the
protruding shank, so that its cross slot c is coincident with the cross
bar of the said shank. By pressing the button part 6 on to the shank
the cross bar enters the button, as illustrated in Figure 4. As the
cross bar enters the button b the disk of the sliding collar bears
against the back of the button 6 and the said sliding collar is advanced
on the shank and its coiled spring m compressed. A springing action
is thereby given to the shank part, and its cross bar k is pressed out-
wards from the button part. Having pressed the button part upon the
shank part, the said button part is turned through a quarter rotation.
The cross slot. c is thereby removed from opposite the cross bar k and an
uncut away part of the button & brought opposite the said cross bar, as
illustrated in Figures 2 and 3. In turning the button part 6 so as to
bring the shank part from the position Figure 4 to the position Figures
2 and 3, the ends of the cross bark of the said shank part slide up the
inclines e, e, and by the springing action of the stem the said ends of
the bar snap or engage behind the said inclines, as seen in the said
Figures 2 and 3. The two parts of the stud or solitaire are thereby

page_text: securely connected together and to the shirt or article of dress. By
means of the stops ff, the motion of the cross bar within the button
part is limited, that is, the cross bar is capable only of a quarter
rotation in either direction, in one direction to engage it behind the
inclines e, e, and in the other direction to bring it opposite the cross
slot c.
To separate the two parts of the stud or solitaire the button part b is
pressed inwards, so as to advance the collar on the stem h, and dis-
engage the ends of the cross bar from behind the inclines e, e. The
button part can now be partly rotated, and the cross slot c in it
brought opposite the cross bar of the shank part, when the button
part may be withdrawn from the shank part, and the two parts discon-
nected from one another and from the shirt or article of dress.
From the foregoing description, and by an examination of the
Drawing, it will be understood that the fastening and unfastening
of the two parts of the stud or solitaire are effected by a compound
motion, that is, the fastening is effected by first pressing inwards the
button part, and then giving a twisting motion to the said button part,
and the unfastening effected by pressing inwards and giving a twisting
motion in the opposite direction to the button part.
Figures 9 and 10 represent sections taken at right angles to one
another of a shirt stud or soltaire, the parts of which are arranged
according to another arrangement of my Invention; Figure 11 is a back
elevation of the same, the button or shell being in section; Figure 12
represents in vertical section, back elevation (partly in section) and
horizontal section the button part detached; and Figure 13 represents
in end elevation and section the shank part detached.
In this arrangement the spring sliding collar is dispensed with, and in
place thereof the end of the tubular shank h is made capable of
sliding within the said shank, and is pressed outwards by the coiled
spring h. Within the button part b is a stop m, against which the
moveable end of the shank / when introduced into the button part b
bears, and thereby gives the required springing action to the shank part
of the stud. In place of the inclines inside the back plate of the button
part b, as before described in this arrangement of my Invention, I use
depressions n, n, situated at right angles to the cross slot c. In fastening
the two parts of the stud or solitaire together and to the article of dress,

page_text: the stem part having been passed through the dress or article, the cross
slot c of the button part b is passed on to the cross bar of the shank
part. The moveable end /* of the shank is thereby pressed inwards by
bearing against the stop m, and a springing action given to the shank.
By turning. the button part through a quarter rotation the arms of the
cross bar k are brought opposite the depressions n, n, in the said button
part when the said arms snap into the said depressions by the springing
action of the shank part. The two parts are thereby connected together
and to the article of dress. To release the two parts of the stud or
solitaire from one another, the button part b is pressed inwards so as
to disengage the arms of the cross bar of the shank part from the
depressions n, n, when by a semi-rotation of the button part the said
arms are brought opposite the cross slot c, and the two parts may be
separated.
Instead of giving the required springing action to the shank part of
the stud or solitaire by making one portion of it capable of sliding,
as in the arrangement already described, the same effect may be
produced by making the stop inside the button part elastic, the shank
being solid and without any sliding part.
This arrangement of my Invention is represented in Figures 14, 15,
and 16 of the accompanying Drawing, Figure 14 representing the
button part in section, Figure 15 the shank part in section, and
Figure 16 the elastic stop of the button part. When the button part,
Figure 14, is passed on to the solid shank part, Figure 15, the end /* of
the said solid shank part bears against the elastic stop p, which yields,
and when the button part is turned through a quarter rotation the said
elastic stopp gives the required pressure to the shank part h, i, and
causes the ends of its cross bar to snap into the depressions n, n, in
the button part, and thereby fastens the two parts of the stud or solitaire
together.
Figure 17 represents a fastening constructed according to my Inven-
tion in which the two parts require to be capable of rotating upon one
another when fastened together; Figure 18 represents the two parts of
the fastening detached. q, r, are the two tubular connecting parts, the
end of the tubular part fitting inside the other part q. In the part q is
a spring tongues with a hooked end, and in the interior of the other
part is an annular shoulder t. When the two parts q, r, are presented
to each other and pressed inwards the hooked end &² of the spring

page_text: tongue s snaps behind the shoulder t, and the two parts are connnected
together but are capable of turning upon one another. A stud or head u
projects from the spring tongue outside the part q, and by pressure upon
the said stud or head the hooked end of the spring tongue is liberated
from the shoulder t, and the two parts q, r, are disengaged from one
another. The part of this fastening is provided with a disk similar
to that marked i in the Drawing and the part of this fastening is
connected to a button or shell similar to that marked b in the Drawing.
The arrangements or combinations of the parts of the fastenings
described and represented in the accompanying Drawing are also
applicable to sleeve links and other articles of jewellery and dress, such
as scarf pins, clasps for belts and bands, buttons for dresses, and guard
chains.
In some articles of jewellery and dress, the motion may be given to
the shank part instead of to the button part.
In applying the said fastenings to the connecting and disconnecting
of knobs or handles of dish covers, knobs of the lids of tea and coffee
pots and butter dishes, and the removeable parts of similar articles, I
apply the button part of the fastening by preference to the dish cover or
lid and the shank part to the knob or handle, the said fastening parts
being made of the required size and strength.
Having now described the nature of my Invention and the manner in
which the same is to be performed, I wish it to be understood that I do
not limit myself to the precise details herein described and illustrated, as
the same may be varied without departing from the nature of my
Invention; but I claim as my Invention the improvements in fastenings
for shirt studs, sleeve links, solitaires, and other articles of jewellery and
dress, and the knobs and handles and other parts of articles which
require to be removeable, herein-before described and illustrated in the
accompanying Drawing, that is to say, constructing one part of the
article of jewellery and dress to be fastened together with a cross slot
and inclines or projections or depressions, and the other part of the
article with a shank and cross bar, the cross bar of the shank on one
part being engaged with the inclines or projections or depressions on
the other part, and a springing action given to the said shank part
to cause its cross bar to snap behind the inclines or projections or into
the depressions in the manner substantially as described and illustrated;
also the combination of parts described and represented for connecting

page_text: together the tubular parts of articles of jewellery and dress which
require to be capable of rotation upon one another when fastened
together.
In witness whereof, I, the said John Wall, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Sixth day of January, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-two.
Witness,
GEORGE SHAW.
JOHN WALL. (L.S.)