IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHTVERE DAD CEN PROALATIONACHINERY FOR SEWING, EMBROIDERING, AND OTHER ORNAMENTAL WORK
Year: 1857

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to George Mumby, of Cloudesley Square, Islington,
London, Mechanical Draughtsman, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS
IN MACHTVERE DAD CEN
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said George Mumby at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
9th June 1857.
I, GEORGE MUMBY, of Cloudesley Square, Islington, London, Mechanical
Draughtsman, do hereby declare the nature of the Invention of "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN MACHINERY FOR SEWING, EMBROIDERING, AND OTHER ORNAMENTAL WORK,"
to be as follows, that is to say:-
The improvements consist, first, in embroidering, by forming a looped .or
piled design on any suitable material by means of a needle receiving a
compound motion, and in connection with a supporting wire if necessary.
These loops, attached to the material by the sewing apparatus, may be
afterwards cut by suitable means.
Secondly, in fixing the embroidering machine to a moveable lever in
order to place the embroidering needle in any required position.
Thirdly, in attaching braid or trimmings to the surfaces of fabrics by means
of a guide fixed to a shoe, through which guide the braid or trimming passes
from a bobbin to the material, to which it is fixed by the sewing apparatus."
Fourthly, in the employment of one or more vibrating needles or thread
carriers for producing a braid on a fabric, and for forming a stronger stitch:
when used for sewing purposes.

page_text: Fifthly, in a peculiar construction of adjustable shuttle driver for regulating
the throw of the shuttle in its race or box.
Sixthly, in winding thread upon the bobbin by fixing it to the axis of the
fly wheel.
Seventhly, in tightening the feed or shuttle thread of sewing machines by a
flat or round spring, or by passing it round a wire.
Eighthly, in sewing an edging to cloth or other material by means of a
guide and a lever, receiving an oscillating motion, for placing the material in
its proper position.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said George Mumby in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
9th December 1857.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, GEORGE
MUMBY, of Cloudesley Square, Islington, London, Mechanical Draughtsman,
send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Ninth day of June, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and fifty-seven, in the twentieth year of Her reign,
did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the
said George Mumby, Her special license that I, the said George Mumby,
my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said
George Mumby, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any
time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter
during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use,
exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland,
the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
MACHINERY FOR SEWING, EMBROIDERING, AND OTHER ORNAMENTAL WORK," upon the
condition (amongst others) that I, the said George Mumby, my executors or
administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of their
hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of
the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and
cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar
months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said George Mumby, do hereby declare
the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following

page_text: Specification, reference being had to the accompanying Sheet of Drawings,
that is to say:-
My Invention relates, first, to novel and useful improvements in embroidering
machines, whereby they are simplified in their construction and the raised cut
pile embroidery stitch rendered more secure.
Secondly, to that class of sewing machines in which a vertical needle is
employed in combination with a shuttle, and known as Thomas' sewing
machine.
The improvements consist, first, in embroidering, by forming a looped or
piled design on any suitable material by means of a needle receiving a com-
pound motion, and in connection with a supporting wire if necessary. These
loops, attached to the material by the sewing apparatus, may be afterwards
cut by suitable means.
Secondly, in fixing the embroidering machine to a moveable lever in order
to place the embroidering needle in any required position.
Thirdly, in attaching braid or trimmings to the surfaces of fabrics by
means of a guide fixed to a shoe, through which guide the braid or trimming
passes from a bobbin to the material, to which it is fixed by the sewing
apparatus.
Fourthly, in the employment of one or more vibrating needles or thread
carriers for producing a braid on a fabric, and for forming a stronger stitch
when used for sewing purposes.
Fifthly, in a peculiar construction of adjustable shuttle driver for regulating
the throw of the shuttle in its race or box.
Sixthly, in winding thread upon the bobbin by fixing it to the axis of the...
fly wheel.
Seventhly, in tightening the feed or shuttle thread of sewing machines by a
flat or round spring, or by passing it round a wire.
Eighthly, in sewing an edging to cloth or other material' by means of a
guide and a lever, receiving an oscillating motion, for placing the material in
its proper position.
Having thus described generally the nature of the Invention, I will now
proceed to particularly describe the same, reference being had to the accom--
panying Drawing, in which the same letters and figures refer to corresponding
parts of the machine.
Fig. 1 of the Drawing represents an elevation, and Fig. 2 a plan, of the
improved embroidering machine constructed according to my Invention. It
is composed of a wrought-iron or other metal standard A, rivetted or other-
wise fixed at the lower part of the horizontal base plate B, which is prolonged

page_text: to form the shuttle rest C. A bracket or angle iron D is fastened by counter-
sunk bolts E to the base plate, and also to the standard to strengthen the
latter.
The shaft F, formed of wrought iron or steel; works in brackets, pedestals; or
bearings G, bolted to the standard A. This shaft has keyed to it a fly wheel I
and driving pulley J. Motion is given to the machine by a cord K in gear
with a rigger or pulley, driven by steam or other motive power. The machine
may also be actuated by a treadle and fly wheel, or by turning the bandle L
by the hand. The shaft F is also keyed to it the grooved cam M, for giving
a vertical and upward and downward movement to the needle slide N by means
of the lever O, the pin or bolt P, forming the fulcrum, being fixed to the
bracket Q, bolted to the standard A. The small antifriction pulley R, attached
to the lever, works in a cam groove S. The cam groove T, on the opposito
side, is for the purpose of actuating the bent lever U, and gives movement
to the adjustable shuttle driver V: One end of the short arm of this lever
is furnished with a small pulley, which works in the cam groove T, and the
opposite end is connected to the long arm W, on the opposite side of the
standard, by means of a pin X. A slot Y is made at one extremity of the
long arm W for a short stud pin Z of the shuttle driver to work in freely.
The improved shuttle driver V for embroidering machines, which may be
also adapted to sewing machines), constitutes the fifth head of my Invention, and
is shewn more clearly in plan, Fig. 3, in the act of driving the shuttle a. The
driver is formed with studs c, b, placed in slots in the rod V, and adjusted by
the set screws c¹, so as to regulate the play or throw of the shuttle in the
race or box d to cause it to pass through the loop properly. The driver is
kept in its proper position by guides e.
The shuttle a is constructed with a fixed pivot, upon which turns the
small bobbin or thread carrier h, and the latter is wound round the binding
thread of the embroidery. The bobbin may be removed by unscrewing the
ends of the shuttle. In order to tighten this thread as it is drawn off the
bobbin h by the traverse of the latter in its race or box d, provided with a
slide d'), the thread is passed through holes made in the transverse wires i, i,
soldered or otherwise secured to the sides of the shuttle, or it may be passed
round them a certain number of times, as at J, for the same purpose, and
alluded to in the seventh head of my improvements.
The embroidering needle k of the machine is secured to the vertical needle
slide or holder N by the screw 7. The slide is formed with two flanges m, m,
which slide in two grooves made in the two checks or guides n, n', of brass or
other metal and screwed to the standard A. The guide n is formed with a

page_text: purpose
piece o at right angles, and to which is fixed the handle p for moving the machine
about, as well as to support the universal joint q; instead of this a ball and
socket joint may be employed. The bent rocking lever r, shewn inore clearly
in front and side view and plans, Figs. 4, 5, and 6, is attached by the pivot s
to the universal joint, and is passed through a slot u in the slide or guide t.
The latter passes through a slot in the standard A, and is screwed at the
back of the needle slide N, .(see Fig. 2). The lever is passed through the
slot u, in order that as the guide ascends and descends the lever may receive
a rocking motion to form the loop. The supporting wire v is for the
of forming, in combination with the embroidering needle k, looped or pile
embroidery, as shewn in detail in Figs. 7 and 8, respectively a section and side
view of the supporting wire v. Fig. 7 represents the manner in which the
loop is formed. Immediately before the embroidering needle k descends with
the Berlin wool or embroidering thread w, the wire, v is passed under it (sce
Fig. 7) by the action of the spring v¹, so as to form a loop, and holds it in
that position until the needle k passes the wool through the cloth or other
material x, where it is secured at the back by the shuttle thread of the wire v,
being then liberated from the loop by the rocking lever. This mode of
forming the looped or piled design forms another part of my Invention. The
Berlin wool or other embroidering thread is wound on the bobbin 1, from
which it passes through the ring guide 2, it then passes behind the tightening
spring 3 and through the guide 4 to the eye of the needle k. This needle
passes through the material a, under which it forms a loop, through which the
shuttle a passes.
When it has passed through the loop, it is drawn tight by
the action of the flat steel spring. 3 screwed to the slide N.
this spring a piece of india-rubber is rivetted or otherwise fixed.
of the spring keeps it in contact with the bridge 6, fastened by screws to the
guides n, n¹, and as the spring rises, the bridge causes it to press the india-
rubber against the thread and hold it firmly, whilst the slide by its ascending
movement tightens the thread, which is then set free by the descent of the
slide. This arrangement forms the 7th head of my improvements. The wool
may also be tightened by means of the spring 7 fitted to the end of the bobbin
1 by the nut 8.
At the back of
The elasticity
The sixth improvement is intended to supercede the use of a separato
winding machine. When the bobbin requires a fresh supply of wool it may
be fixed to the end of the shaft F by the set screw g, but a preferable mode is
by fixing the bobbin to the winder 10, and a cord 11 being passed round
the small pulley 12 and the fly wheel I, upon giving motion to the latter by
the hand, or other means, the wool is wound round the bobbin. This mode of

page_text: 'winding thread on bobbins may be adapted to ordinary sewing machines,
in order to place the embroidering needle k in any position to form the
design, as referred to in the second bead of my improvements. The whole
machine is supported on a cast-iron moveable bracket or lever 13 of suitable
strength. This bracket moves or rotates on the centre pin 14 firmly secured
to any foundation. The machine is likewise moveable on the pin or pivot 15
secured to the end of the bracket by the nut 16. This pin is fastened to the
plate 17 bolted to the embroidering machine.
This construction or arrangement dispenses with the apparatus for feeding
the cloth, as in Thomas' machine, and allows the embroidering, needle to be
placed in any position in a horizontal plane (as shown in dotted lines, Fig. 2) so
as to form the required design. The improvement is applicable to the sewing
of braid in ornamental designs on fabrics, as hereafter described.
The work to be embroidered is held in the usual manner by clamps or
otherwise, or when the work is small, it may be held by the hands on two
supports, as in Fig. 11. The needle is moved over the design (chalked or
otherwise marked out) by the handle p, so as to produce parallel rows, as
represented in Figs. 9 and 10, respectively a plan and section of a rose bud, as
a specimen of this mode of embroidering. After the pile is produced by the
use of suitably colored wool, it is cut with shears, scissors, or other known
means, so as to form a raised pile design of a contour suited to the require-
ments of the design, (see Figs. 9 and 10).
The following are the improvements on Thomas' sewing machine:
braiding children's dresses, and military and other clothing, has hitherto been
done by hand, rendering it expensive and laborious work.
Now, the third head of my improvements is intended to supercede manual
labor for these purposes, and the mode of carrying it out is in the following
manner, and represented in elevation, section, and plan, Figs. 12, 13, and 14,
and applied to the sewing machine, part of which is shewn. A central sup-
porting tube 18 is screwed or otherwise secured to the plate 19, fastened to
the machines by screws. Upon this tube, through which the sewing needle
and thread 21 passes, the bobbin 22 carrying the flat braid 23 rotates freely.
The bobbin rests upon a nut 24, which allows different sized bobbins to be
employed. A small pinion 25 also rotates freely in the tube 18, and to the
pinion is keyed the rotating arm 26, to which is fixed the guide 27, furnished.
with a slotted shoe 28, represented in plan, Fig. 15. Through this shoe the
braid passes to the material, to which it is attached by the sewing needle 21,
in combination with a shuttle. The braid being drawn from the shuttle by
the motion of the machine, passes through the guide 27 and shoc, so as to

page_text: cause it to be fed perfectly flat on the material and and always in advance of
the needle, the necessary movements being obtained by turning the handle 30
with the hand, and thus cause the spur wheel 31 in gear with the pinion to
give a rotatory motion to the shoe at the same time the machine is being
moved. Trimmings may also be sewn on in a similar manner by using bobbins
of suitable size in connection with an adjustable shoe, Figs. 16 and 17.
Instead of the bobbin 22 being fitted to the central tube, it may be supported
on the guide 27, and shewn in Figure 18. Fig. 19 is a modification of the
apparatus suitable for attaching corded and other braid in pattern on fabrics.
In this case the shoe 32, furnished with a slot or guide, is fixed, and is raised
or lowered to adjust it to the thickness of the braid by the nut 33, screwed to
the pin 34, passing through the slot. The braid 35 is fed from a bobbin at
the back of the machine, and shewn in dotted lines, and is passed through a
hole in the vibrating arm 36, so as to place the braid in advance of the needle
as it is moved backwards or forwards. This arm vibrates by twisting the
handle 35, working loosely on the pin, with the hand between two studs
(one, 36, is shewn). Fig. 20 is a specimen of braid work, shewing the nature
of the improvement more clearly. In order to accomplish this, the sewing
machine is fitted to a bracket 13, as shewn in the embroidering machine, Figs.
1 and 2, which arrangement gives to the sewing machine a power which it
did not possess before. The work to be braided is fixed either by clamps on a
suitable frame, or if the material is small it is held by the hand on two
supports, as in Fig. 11. As by this arrangement the sewing machine is
capable of being placed in any position, it is specially useful for forming looped
braid work and trimmings on any material which would be inconvenient or
impracticable to move about to produce the design. Collar work may be also
accomplished by this machine.
The fourth head of my improvements is represented in Figs. 21 and 22,
and the improvement consists in affixing the vibrating thread carrier or needle
37 to the sewing machine, a part of which is shewn. This thread carrier,
which vibrates on the pivot 38 in the bracket 39, is actuated by the pin 40,
fixed to the needle slide 41, and as the latter ascends by means of the lever 42
it causes the thread to vibrate alternately on each side of the needle at the back
as shewn in the shoe, Fig. 22, which moves the cloth along a stitch at a time
in the ordinary manner. The thread 43 is brought from the bobbin 44 and
passed through the eye of the needle, and as it vibrates the colored silk cord or
other material is sewn on in a serpentine shape, forming a running thread, as
shewn in Figure 23; the thread 45 being worked in by the needle 46 of the

page_text: sewing machine, fastened at the back by the shuttle thread, as shewn in section
Fig. 24. Instead of using colored cord or thread, ordinary cotton thread
may be used, and the union of the three threads in the manner described
produces a new and stronger stitch than the ordinary sewing machine.
The eighth and last head of my improvements has reference to our arrange-
ment for sewing edging or binding to cloth or other material. Figs. 25 and
26 shew a plan and elevation of the mode in which this is effected. 47 is an
oscillating lever, shewn also separately in Fig. 27, and is formed with a fork 48,
bevelled smooth at the edges, and is fixed to the pin 49, connected to the other
arm of the lever 50. The pin passes through a hole made in the guide 51,
screwed to the shuttle rest 52 at any desired part. The cloth 53 is laid on
the top of the latter, and the edging 54 fed from a bobbin is held by the hand
to the action of the oscillating lever, which folds down the edging on both
sides of the cloth, at the same time the latter is pressed against the guide,
when it becomes attached by the thread of the sewing needle 55. The
oscillating movement is given to the lever by means of the ordinary shoe
made to press against the arm 50 as it pushes the cloth along a stitch at a
time, and places the lever in the position shewn in dotted lines, the spring
47 causing it to return to its original position. The lower tine of the fork 48
vibrates in a countersunk part of the shuttle box.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the Inven-
tion, and the manner of performing the same, I wish to state, in conclusion,
that I am aware that a shuttle has been used for forming a "binding thread
at the back of the fabric, whereby.the embroidering thread is secured," (thic
machine being stationary,) by Alfred Heaven, in a Patent granted on or about
Third September, One thousand eight hundred and fifty-five, No. 1982; I am
also aware that a Patent has been granted to William Thomas, First December,
One thousand eight hundred and forty-six, No. 11,464, and also to William F.
Thomas, of the respective dates of Twenty-seventh April, One thousand eight
hundred and fifty-three, No. 1026, and Fourteenth September, One thousand
eight hundred and fifty-five, No. 2079, for sewing machines, in which a
vibrating needle and slide is used in combination with a shuttle for producing
a stitch in the cloth, the material being moved whilst the machine is stationary.
And, finally, a Patent has been granted to N. P. J. Leseure, Fifteenth
November, One thousand eight hundred and fifty-six, No. 2700, for "An
Improved Embroidering Machine," in which the embroidery needle is made to
move in any direction for producing a pile design, and which pile is not secured
by a shuttle thread at the back.

page_text: I therefore do not claim the shuttle and needle in my embroidering machine,
my Invention being principally a combination or arrangement of certain parts
of existing machinery for producing effects not hitherto attained.
I beg also to state that I do not confine myself to the exact details of con-
struction herein described, as many modifications may be made without departing
from the principle of construction.
What I claim as new and useful, and desired to be secured by the herein-
before in part recited Letters Patent, is,-
First, the combination or arrangement of parts of existing machinery, vizt,
the shuttle and vertical needle, with the supporting wire v, for producing
looped or piled embroidery, substantially as herein-before described, and repre-
sented in the Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8 of the accompanying Drawing.
Secondly, the application and use of a moveable lever or bracket for placing
the embroidering or sewing instruments in any required position to form
curved or ornamental designs on fabrics, as herein-before described, and
represented in Figs. 1 and 2 of the Drawing.
Thirdly, braiding cloth or other material by means of a guide or apparatus
as described, and represented in Figs. 12 to 20 of the Drawing, in combination
with my moveable bracket or lever and the needle and shuttle of Thomas'
sewing machine.
Fourthly, the mode or method of producing a braid or corded pattern on
fabrics, and of forming a stitch of three threads for sewing purposes, as
herein-before described in reference to Figs. 22, 23, and 24 of the annexed
Drawing.
Fifthly, the construction and employment of the oscillating lever for sewing
an edging or binding to cloth or other material, as described, and referred
to in Figs. 25, 26, and 27 of the Drawing.
In witness whereof, I, the said George Mumby, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Ninth day of December, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-seven.
GEORGE MUMBY.
(L.S.)