CERTAIN. IMPROVEMENTS IN MANUFACTURING BRAIDS, PLATS, FRINGES, GIMPS, AND OTHER SIMILAR ARTICLES,
Year: 1847

page_text: TO ALL TO. WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, PIERRE.
ARMAND le Comte de FONTAINE MOREAU, of 15, New Broad Street, in the
City of London, English and Foreign Patent Agent for Inventions, send
greeting.
WHEREAS Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Royal Letters Patent under the Great Seal of the United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland, bearing date at Westminster, the Eighteenth day of
November, in the eleventh year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her. heirs
and successors, give and grant unto me, the said Pierre Armand le Comte
de Fonntaine Moreau, my executors, administrators, and assigns, Her especial
license, 'full power, sole privilege and authority, that I, the said Pierre Armand
le Comte de Fontaine Moreau, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or
such others as I, the said Pierre Armand le Comte de Fontaine Moreau,
should agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter,
during the term of fourteen years therein mentioned, should and lawfully
might make, use, exercise, and vend, within England, Wales, and, the Town
of Berwick-upon-Tweed, and in the Islands of Guernsey, Jersey, Alderney,
Sark, and Man, and in all Her. Majesty's, Colonies and Plantations abroad,
the Invention of "CERTAIN. IMPROVEMENTS IN MANUFACTURING BRAIDS, PLATS,
FRINGES, GIMPS, AND OTHER SIMILAR ARTICLES," communicated to me from
abroad; in which said Letters Patent there is contained, a proviso obliging.
me, the said Pierre Armand le. Comte de Fontaine Moreau, to particularly
describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner
i

page_text: the same is to be performed, by and instrument in writing under my hand
and seal, and to cause the same to be enrolled in Her Majesty's High Court
of Chancery within six calendar months next and immediately after the date
of the said in part recited Letters Patent, as in and by the same, reference
being thereunto had, will more fully and at large appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said "proviso, I, the said
Pierre Armand le Comte de Fontaine Moreau, do hereby declare that the
nature of the said. Invention communicated to me, and the manner of
performing the same, are particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement thereof, reference being had to the Drawing hereunto
annexed, and to the different figures marked thereon, in which the same
letters of reference refer to similar parts in the Figures representing the
same apparatus (that is to say) :-
The Invention communicated to me consists in new and improved processes
composed of certain new arrangements and modifications of certain parts of
the loom, and of new or improved apparatus to be used in conjunction there-
with, for making fringes, braiding, borders, edges, and other articles of trim-
ming and linen drapery, and also in employing for the production of the said
before-mentioned articles such matters as netting,. chenible,. lace, horsehair;
flexible tinsel, caoutchoux, straw, and many other similar substances.
I am convinced that by an inspection of the description herein-after con--
tained it will be easy to perceive that I am enabled, to obtain products. of
dimensions and character impossible to be obtained at present, and to effect at
the same time a saving of labour with a diversity of work; not: hitherto
produced. And I think it right, before entering fully into the details of the
improvements communicated to me, to point out in the new processes the
improved modifications in manufacturing, and to compare them with the mode
generally employed for producing similar articles, and to convince beyond a
doubt of the advantage and superiority of the former: over the latter. The
processes forming the object of the present Letters Patent differ in: the most
essential parts from those generally employed for the fabrication of trimmings,
crimps, braids, &c., and they apply also to articles for which the ordinary
process would not be available. The ground iof trimmings is made of warp,
and the ornaments are-formed by the, shoots, so that by the present process.as
many shuttles are required as there are colors to be used. On the contrary,
by these new processes each time the warp in the maill.is.crossed by means of
one or several treadles, the thread-which binds the work is turned, so that the
button hole stitch' or imitation is formed above, and the cords.or ribs are
produced underneath, and the ornaments are. produced by: using: a spindle;
i

page_text: which is, placed in such a manner as to make the thread for composing the
ornament turn round it in order to obtain single, double, or even triple.
openings, by disposing necessarily.necessarily the accessory apparatns herein-
after spoken of.according to the variations of which this kind of manufacture,
is susceptible. The words "the thread which turns," herein above mentioned,,
are intended to signify a small bobbin or anything answering the same,
purpose, put in the shuttle for weaving, and which turns with its thread. This
turning thread is made to turn by the right hand of the workman after he has.
properly placed the accessory tools with the left hand.
...The Figures 1, 2, and 3, of, the Drawing annexed to the present description
represent a loom, by means of which, in conjunction with the accessory pieces.
or apparatus represented in Figures 4, 5, 6, 7,.and 8, all kinds of such works
as herein-before stated may be executed.
DESCRIPTION. OF THE DRAWING.
Figure 1 is a front view of a loom, that is to say, a view of the side of the
same where the workman -is, placed when at work. Figure 2 is a plan or.
bird's-eye view of the same loom. Figure 3 is a side .view. A, Figures 1,.
2, and 3, is the wooden frame well consolidated by means of cross pieces, A',.
A". B, Figures 1, 2, and 3, is a wooden roller for .enrolling the trimming; .
it moves, as usual upon an axis B', 'supported by the frame A; that roller is
kept distended by means of the counterweight V. C, C, of the same Figures.
are upright wooden bearers set on the frame A; they support the spindles 0, 0¹,
on which the bobbins a, b, c,, provided with thread are placed. These bobbins,
'a,b,c, are held extended by means of counter weights d, e, f,. Figures 1, 2, and 3.,
D, Figures, 1, 2, and 3, is a wooden frame set on the frame of the loom, and..
supporting the axis 9, 9, 9, of the small pullies 9, 9, 9". E, Figures 1, 2, and 3,
is a wooden treadle, worked by means of the foot acting on an iron rod h, and
by which the loom. is put in motion. G, Figures 1, 2, and 3, is a cord fixed at
the extremity of: the treadle E; it is made to pass over the two pullies g, g¹,.
and then having crossed itself at the same time, to return in order to roll.
finally over the third pulley.g", that rod G is kept distended by means of a.
counterpoise, I.,The workman, by, bearing on the rod h of the treadle E,
communicates a lateral intermittent motion to the cord G, and thence to the
warp in the maill j, j. That motion causes the crossing of the threads k, l, of -
the bobbins b, c, and those threads, on being crossed, catch the threads M, N,
of the bobbins a, c, at top and bottom; then all those threads roll themselves
round: the spindle of the workman to form the heads composing the trimming.
The body of the work, in course of preparation, is maintained by the iron rod f,

page_text: Figure 1, then enrolls itself by degrees on the roller B, Figures 1, 2, and 3.
The principel characteristic of the Invention communicated to me consists,
as it is seen by the herein-before described operation, in the crossing on the
side of the threads, which are guided by the warp in the maills, this lateral
crossing of the threads being effected by the motion of one or several treadles,
or by any other convenient means. The disposition of this improved loom
herein-before described can vary in an infinite number of ways, according to
the articles to be executed. Thus there may be a greater or less number of
bobbins, as alse of treadles and warp, in the maills which guide the threads
when crossing. It is likewise easy to effect the patterns by the thread which
turns conjointly with the threads which are forming the patterns. Several
bodies, or a single one only, may be made, as they can be tied during the
working, or afterwards, in order to make any desired width. It will be easy
also to form patterns on fringes, shawls, and all kinds of stuffs, by the same
process, by stretching out the stuff on one side and the fringe on the other. In
order to put in motion the threads which form the pattern, two hooks are placed
on each side of the loom, and several pegs on the bar which maintains the
underneath threads or several pullies at small distances. In order to make the
desired width, a notched iron wire is also placed so as to put as many threads
as required above so as to produce many works having several bodies at the
same time. Four or five warps in the maills are set on every side in order to
prepare at the same time many small edges.
Having thus exposed the general features of the mode of working the loom,
I will now proceed to describe in detail the manner of employing the
different accessory apparatus or wires which I have herein-before mentioned,
and which are represented in Figures 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8 of the Drawing.
That
The Figure 4 represents a side view of the first of the accessory apparatus
herein-before mentioned, and Figure 5 shews an end view of it.
apparatus serves to make twisted fringes and other very regular articles by
means of the point or hook a, Figures 4 and 5, placed at one end, and of the
point b, which forms the patterns, and which is fixed in the threads which
are crossed. The desired height is obtained by the agency of the point or
screw d of the same Figure 4, which presses in order to advance or recede at
discretion. A counterweight e, Figure 4, serves to keep that instrument a
little way inclined, and to facilitate its movement.
The second accessory wire, Figure 6, although more simple than the first
apparatus, produces, however, more complicated fringes. It is placed above
the middle threads, and by lowering the treadle half way the threads which
produce the fringe become hidden in the middle at the moment when thé

page_text: ornaments to form the patterns are made so that the threads of the fringe get
on the edge ready to form the fringe at will. The same accessory. instrument
herein-before described serves also to produce ornaments with single or double
tops or headings, by presenting it above the middle threads, and between
those of the side. The same apparatus. makes also ornaments-for forming
leaves of ornamental flowers. The ornament is worked on the tinsel or wire
of any kind; one end of it is made to lap over on either side, which are
joined by turning them. The leaves are assembled by turning. the silk, and
the flowers are got up similarly to the ordinary process.
The third accessory apparatus, seen in Figure 7, forms the more distant
beads in order to produce some openings. in the patterns.
'
The fourth accessory apparatus, represented in Figure 8, forms four tops or
headings; by presenting it between the side threads, more even may be made
at discretion.
.
The fifth accessory apparatus, Figure. 9, is for making the ornaments.in.
tissue, and is placed also above the middle threads. By uniting the different
parts, and attaching them at convenient distances according to the patterns to
to be produced, great widths can be manufactured, and for that, purpose the
die is placed between the bottom and top threads, and the turning thread is
tied. Large widths are also produced by presenting the parts at the same
time, and by turning the thread round the ornament presented, and round the
one which is worked upon. By these processes straw pieces or tissues, large
enough for women's bonnets, can be produced. Large widths are also manu-
factured by means of ornaments, or of any kind of threads which traverse all
the worked parts one after the other.
And having now described the nature of the Invention communicated to me,
and the manner of carrying the same into effect, I wish to observe that I do
not confine myself rigidly to the precise details, processes, dispositions, and
modi perandi mentioned in the preceding description, so long as its general
feature be retained, nor do I claim as the Invention communicated to me all
the apparatus or machinery, and all the portions or pieces of the same taken
separately or singly, or the materials composing them; but what I claim as
the Invention communicated to me, and intended to be protected by Letters
Patent, is,―
Firstly, the mode, means, and processes for constructing or combining a
loom so as to obtain a lateral crossing of the threads. directed by the warp in
the maills, and the application of the same to the fabrication of fringes, braiding,
borders, and other.articles of drapery of a similar description, as herein-before
described in reference to Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, and 9.

page_text: Secondly, the mode of constructing or arranging the accessory wires or
apparatus, and their application in conjunction with the: improved loom for the
production of articles of different texture, character; and dimensions, such as
fringes, plats, braids; &c., asi herein-before described in reference to Figures 4,
5,6,7,8, and 9 ofathe said: Drawing.
Thirdly, the application of nettwork, gimps, chenille, lace, horsehair, flexible
wire, tinsel, caoutchouc, and other similar matters for the manufacture: of
fringes, borders, crests, and other articles of drapery,' by the application of the
said processes, machinery, and apparatus, as herein-before described in
Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, and 9. "
And this, the said Invention communicated to me, being to the best of my
knowledge and belief new and never before used in England; Wales, and the
Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, or in the Islands of Guernsey, Jersey, Alderney,
Sark, and Man, or in any of Her Majesty's Colonies and Plantations: abroad,
I hereby declare this to be my Specification of the same, and that 'the sanie
doth comply in all respects with the proviso contained in the herein-before in
part recited L'etters: Patent, wherefore I do claim to maintainiexclusive right
and sole privilege to the same."
In witness whereof, I, the said Pierre Armand le Comte de Fontaine'
Moreau, have hereunto set my hand and seal, this Eighteenth day of
May, in the year of our Lord-One thousand eight hundred and forty-
eight: