IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINERY
Year: 1875

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Alfred Vincent Newton, of the Office for Patents,
66, Chancery Lane, in the County of Middlesex, Mechanical
Draughtsman, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING
MACHINERY." -A communication from abroad by Jesse Edward Folk,
of Brooklyn, in the State of New York, United States of America.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Alfred Vincent Newton
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition,
on the 28th June 1875.
I, ALFRED VINCENT NEWTON, of the Office for Patents, 66, Chancery
Lane, in the County of Middlesex, Mechanical Draughtsman, do hereby.
declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING
MACHINERY," to be as follows:-
This Invention has reference to sewing machines for doing various
kinds of work, and consists,―
1st. In a novel mechanism for driving the shaft which actuates the
needle bar, whereby a steadier or easier motion free from any dead centre
A

page_text: action is obtained. Fitted to the rear end of the needle bar shaft is a
double crank, and the driving shaft below the table is similarly provided.
These shafts are connected together by clip bars extending from the
The
crank of one shaft to the corresponding crank of the other shaft.
cranks are so arranged relatively to each other and to their respective
shafts that radial lines drawn from the axes of the shafts to the axes of
the cranks will form an angle of 90°, or thereabouts. From the crank
of the lower shaft a weight may depend to assist the throw of the
cranks, and, if desired, the driving motion may be imparted by a pulley
caused by a clutch to interlock with a pin on one of the clip bars.
2ndly. In novel and advantageous combinations for operating the
feeding dog, and for feeding the cloth in directions at right angles to
each other, or thereabouts. In this case the cloth plate carries on its
under side the feeding dog, and it is made to admit of being turned so
that its slots for the dog to rise through may lie longitudinally of the
table or transversely thereto, and two arrangements of mechanism for
driving the dog are provided, one for each position of the cloth plate.
To provide for this variation in the directions of the feed the presser
foot has in this case a front or end turned up portion, and a back or
lateral turned up portion or lip to facilitate the traverse of the work in
different directions.
3rdly. In a novel tubular guide on the needle bar for the needle
thread, to prevent snarling of the latter.
4thly. In certain loop detaining and transposing devices in connection
with a rotating hook and a reciprocating needle for working a single
thread to produce a chain stitch, and when a bobbin is used within
the rotating hook for producing a double or locked thread stitch.
When making a single chain stitch there is combined with the
rotating hook (such, for instance, as is used in the Wheeler Wilson
machine for taking the loop from the needle thread), a flat hook made
of a piece of thin sheet metal and arranged to enter the groove provided
in the main hook for the entrance of the needle. This flat hook is
carried by a ring which occupies the space provided for the reception of
the looper thread bobbin, and it lies behind the needle as it moves up
and down within the main or rotating hook in order to seize and detain
the last formed loop of the needle thread and allow the needle on its
next descent to enter the same previously to its presenting the new loop

page_text: to the main hook. The ring is further provided with a wing or detaining
piece to assist in forming the loop.
In order to form a locked thread chain stitch the ordinary bobbin is
used in combination with a flat hook, the nose of which points in a
reverse direction to that of the main hook. This flat hook is formed
with a pivot which fits into the eye of the bobbin that is inserted into
the central cavity in the face of the main or rotating hook. The bobbin
and hook are held in place by an ordinary bobbin ring, the operation
being as follows:-When the machine is set in motion the friction
between the, rotating hook, the bobbin, and a shoulder or disc connected
with the main hook causes the blunt nose of the flat hook to remain in
contact with the back of the throat of the main or rotating hook and
thus secures the joint rotation of the two hooks so that the loop of the
needle thread is not only extended by the rotary hook but that side
which passes over the inner side or back of the bobbin escapes past the
heel of the rotating hook, and the bend of the loop escapes past a
separate brush or pad which acts as a check, whereby the inner side of
the loop behind the bobbin instead of being drawn upwards on the outer
side of the needle is slipped over and passed behind the flat hook, and
thereby is conducted behind the needle so as to surround the new or
next loop formed by the needle in its passage through the cloth, and as
the previous loop is drawn up towards the cloth by the extension of the
new loop the said previous loop is drawn tightly around the new loop
thereby enchaining the loops with a locking thread through them on
the under side of the cloth. When the bobbin is not supplied with
thread an ordinary chain stitch will be formed by the arrangement just
described. The bobbin retaining ring may be provided with a screw or
adjustable stop which projecting inwards towards the rotating hook will
act as a loop detainer.
The second part of the Invention also has reference to sewing
machines for doing various kinds of work, and more particularly relates
to machines the stitch produced by which is formed by the interlooping
of two independent threads, that is, the loop of a secondary thread is
passed through a loop of the needle thread and the interlocking of said
loops secured by a succeeding loop of the needle thread.
This part of the Invention consists in various novel combinations of
devices, including a reciprocating needle, a revolving double hook pro

page_text: vided with protecting wings taking the loop of the needle thread, and
an independent oscillating or reciprocating looper carrying the secondary
thread and passing its loop through the loop of the needle thread. It
also includes a revolving double hook having its two hooked portions or
hooks proper pointing and moving simultaneously in the same direction
and only making one complete revolution for two up-and-down move-
ments of the sewing needle, whereby two stitches are made for each
revolution of the shaft of the revolving hook or hooks.
This part of the Invention furthermore comprises certain devices for
actuating the feed and for operating the independent secondary thread
carrier or looper twice for each revolution of the double revolving hook
by means of rotating reverse cams on the driving shaft of the machine,
and excentric rings attached to the feeding devices and looper lever
respectively; likewise an excentric take-up, attached at its rear to a
rocking arm carrying a tension spring for the needle thread, and like-
wise an endless belt perforated with holes into which take pins or studs
on the pulleys of the machine for ensuring the transmission of the
differential motion to the needle bar. The same machine also by the
introduction of a bobbin within the revolving hook produces a locked
thread stitch.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Alfred Vincent Newton in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 28th December 1875.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, ALFRED
VINCENT NEWTON, of the Office for Patents, 66, Chancery Lane, in the 2
County of Middlesex, Mechanical Draughtsman, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Twenty-eighth day of June, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-five, in the
thirty-ninth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and suc-
cessors, give and grant unto me, the said Alfred Vincent Newton,
Her special licence that I, the said Alfred Vincent Newton, my
executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said
Alfred Vincent Newton, my executors, administrators, and assigns,

page_text: should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and
at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and
lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United King-
dom of Great Britain and Ircland, the Ohannel Islands, and Isle of
Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINERY," being a
communication to me from abroad by Jesse Edward Folk, of Brooklyn,
in the State of New York, in the United States of America, upon the
condition (amongst others) that I, the said Alfred Vincent Newton,
my executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my,
or their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe
and ascertain the naturo of the said Invention, and in what manner
the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the
Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and imme-
diately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Alfred Vincent Newton, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same
is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement, reference being had to the Drawing hereunto
annexed, and to the letters and figures marked thereon (that is to say) :-
The first part of this Invention has reference to sewing machines for
doing various kinds of work, and consists in a novel mechanism for
driving the shaft which actuates the needle bar, whereby a steady or
easy motion, free from any dead centre action, is obtained. Further-
more, such part of the Invention consists in certain loop detaining and
transposing devices in connection with a rotating hook and a recipro-
cating needle for working a single thread to produce a chain stitch, and
when a bobbin is used within the rotating hook for producing a double
or locked thread stitch.
Fig. 1 represents a side view of a sewing machine, having said part of
the Invention under certain modifications applied; Fig. 2 is a rear view
of the same; Fig. 3, a vertical transverse section on the line a¹, a', of
Fig. 1; Fig. 4, a front view.
Fig. 5, a side view of the rotating hook, with bobbin and screw for
producing a double or locked thread stitch.
Fig. 6 is a view in perspective of a supplementary hook for use in
connection with the main rotating hook, the same forming a loop

page_text: retaining and transposing device for the production of a single thread
chain stitch.
Fig. 7 is a front view of said hooks in combination with the sewing
needle and presser foot, showing their position at the commencement of
a stitch.
Fig. 8 is a vertical section of the same in a plane at right angles to
the last named Figure.
Figures 9, 10, and 12 are face views of like devices in different positions,
Fig. 12 showing the finishing action of the interlacing of the loops before
tho tension is applied to lock them.
Fig. 11 is a vertical section in a plane at right angles to Fig. 10, with
the parts mainly in a corresponding position, but with the main rotating
hook slightly in advance.
Fig. 13 is a diagram illustrating the chain stitch produced.
5
1
Fig. 14 is a plan of the feeding mechanism and devices pertaining 1
thereto, arranged to feed in transverse relation with the rotating book
shaft, as indicated by the arrow 1.
Fig. 15 is a longitudinal vertical section of similar parts on the line
v, v, looking in direction of the arrow 2.
Fig. 16 is a front view of said devices, with the cloth plate in 2
section.
Fig. 17, a transverse vertical section on the line w, w, in Fig. 14.
Fig. 18 is a plan of the feeding devices arranged to feed in direction
of the length of the rotating hook shaft, as indicated by arrow 3.
Fig. 19 is a longitudinal vertical section on the line x, x, looking in 2
the direction of the arrow 4; and Fig. 20, a transverse vertical section
on the line y, y, in Fig. 18.
Fig. 21 is a face view of a rotating hook, with a centrally disposed
cam looper and cast off, and a brush or pad, to take the place of the
supplementary hook used in the previous Figures for the retention and 3
transposing of the loop to produce a single thread chain stitch, as shewn
in Fig. 13; Fig. 22 is a vertical section of the same in a plane at
right angles to the immediately preceding Figure, with the parts in a
like relative position,

page_text: wrist pins f, g, and excentric rods substituted for the connecting rods
F, G; but such being the equivalent no further reference will be made to
the same.
One of the connecting rods (in this case the rod G) may be extended
below its point of attachment to its lower wrist pin, and provided with
a pendent weight I to assist the rear or outside, cranks in passing their
dead centres and keep the rod G in steady connection with its wrist
pins. This weight I however has a more important advantage when the
rod F, either by accident or design, as for instance, in case of the breakage
of it or its wrist pin is dispensed with, and said rod F may be made with
opening and closing jaws at its ends, as clearly shewn in Figures 2
and 3, to admit of its removal. In this case, that is, when the driving
power is communicated through a single rod G, then the power is con-
veyed to said rod by a crank or wrist pin on a pulley J that becomes
the 'driver instead of the shaft H, and which is made capable of sliding,
by means of a catch i, to throw said wrist pin h into or out of connection
with the rod G at a point intermediate of its length. When the driving
power is thus applied then the weight I assists, by the momentum it
receives, in carrying the upper and lower cranks over their dead
centre.
'
The shaft H carries at its forward end a rotating hook K, which may
be similar to that used in an ordinary Wheeler and Wilson machine for
operation in connection with the reciprocating needle k, which works
the sewing thread 1, but said hook operates in connection with other
devices as herein-after described for changing the stitch.
The feed, which is a four motion one, is made capable of being
changed so as either to feed the cloth in a transverse relation with the
shaft Has indicated by arrow 1 in Figure 14 or in parallel relation with
said shaft from back to front of the machine, as indicated by arrow 3 in
Figures 18 and 19. To provide for this change in the direction of the
feed the cloth plate C is attached by screws m or other suitable
fastenings to the bed portion A, arranged so that said plate may be
readily detached and turned to occupy positions at right angles with
each other, as shewn in Figures 14 and 18, the same screws or fastenings
being used to hold it in either position according to the direction of feed
required: Said plate O too has the sliding bar L of the feed which,
carries the rising and falling feeding dog M, and which is controlled, as

page_text: 16
regards its back movement by a spring carried by it, also the excentric
or other adjustable stop N, which regulates the length of feed to vary
the size of the stitches, so that when changing the positions of the
cloth plate as above described these several devices are in their places
and in proper working position to feed in either of the two directions
specified
sent by a spring » carried by it; also the excentric
or other adjustable stop N, which regulates the length of feed to vary
the size of the stitches, so that when changing the positions of the
cloth plate as above described these several devices are in their places
and in proper working position to feed in either of the two directions
specified.
To give the several requisite four motions of the feed the weight of
the pivotted dog M and the action of the spring n serve to effect the
falling and back motions of said dog.
To give the rising and forward motions thereto the following devices
are employed-On the shaft H, back of the rotating hook, is an
excentric O, which reciprocates a bar P backwards and forwards with
freedom to rise and fall by means of a free pin and slotted connection,
as at p of said bar in its rear. This gives the lift and forward motions
to the feeding dog M when the feed is transverse to the shaft H by
means of an arm Q arranged to project from the face of the bar P (see
Fig. 17), and so that when moving forward in common with the bar Pit
lifts the forward portion of the dog M to bite on the cloth, and acts
against a projection 9 on the slide L to give forward feed to said dog
(see Fig. 16).
When it is required to feed parallel with the shaft H, that is, from
back to front of the machine instead of across it, the cloth plate C
having been changed from the position represented for it in Figure 14 to
that shown for it in Fig. 18, then to give the rising and forward
motions to the dog M, a cam R also arranged on the shaft H at the
back of the rotating hook operates, instead of the arm Q of the bar P
on the feeding dog M, to both lift the latter and to move it forward,
the lift being produced by a rise or swell on the periphery of the cam
(see more particularly Figures 19 and 20), while the forward motion is
produced by a bevilled or spiral construction of the face of the cam (see
Figures 18 and 19); thus the periphery of the said cam acts on the
under side of the forward portion of the pivotted dog M, and the
face of the cam on the projection 9 of the slide L which carries
the dog.

page_text: provide for the free entrance of the cloth between it and the plate C
when the feed is in transverse relation with the shaft H, but said
presser foot is constructed with a back turned-up portion or rear lateral
bent lip to provide for the free entrance of the cloth between the
presser foot and the cloth plate when the feed is in the direction with
or parallel to the length of the shaft H, that is, from the back to the
front of the machine
when the feed is in transverse relation with the shaft, but said
presser foot is constructed with a back turned-up portion or rear lateral
bent lip to provide for the free entrance of the cloth between the
presser foot and the cloth plate when the feed is in the direction with
or parallel to the length of the shaft H, that is, from the back to the
front of the machine
The means for enchaining the loops of the needle thread to produce a
simple chain or tambour stitch, as shown in Fig. 13, is more par-.
ticularly illustrated in Figures 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, and 12 of the
Drawing.
The arrangement consists in a combination with a rotating hook K,
such for instance as is used in a Wheeler and Wilson machine, for
taking the loop from the needle thread of a flat hook T made of a piece
of thin sheet metal, and arranged to enter the groove 8 provided in the
main hook K for the entrance of the needle k. This flat hook is carried
by a ring, which occupies the space provided for the looper thread
bobbin, so that its outer surface lies behind the needle as it moves up
and down within the main or rotating hook K, and so that the needle
may pass between the flat hook T and the nose of the main hook. This
description applies both to the production of a single thread chain stitch
and a locked thread chain stitch, herein-after described with reference to
Figures 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, and 33 of the Drawings. In such last-
named stitch-arrangement however the flat hook (the nose of which, as
in the modification illustrated in the several Figures from 5 to 12
inclusive, points in a reverse direction to that of the main hook,) is formed
with a pivot, which fits into the eye of the bobbin that is inserted into
the central cavity in the face of the main or rotating hook.
The bobbin and flat hook are held in place by a bobbin ring A', the
operation being as follows:-When the machine is set in motion tho
friction between the rotating hook, the bobbin, and a shoulder or disc
on the rotating hook causes the blunt nose of the flat hook to remain in
contact with the back of the throat of the main or rotating hook, and
thus secures the joint rotation of the two hooks, so that the loop of the
needle thread is not only extended by the rotating hook, but that sido
which passes over the inner side or back of the bobbin escapes past the
heel of the rotating hook, and the bend of the loop escapes past a separate

page_text: brush or pad which acts as a check, whereby the inner side of the loop
behind the bobbin instead of being drawn upwards on the outer side of
the needle is slipped over and passed behind the flat hook, and is thereby
conducted behind the needle so as to surround the new or next loop
formed by the needle in its passage through the cloth, and as the pre-
vious loop is drawn up towards the cloth by the extension of the new
loop the said previous loop is drawn tightly around the new loop, thereby
enchaining the loops with a locking thread through them on the under
side of the cloth. Such is substantially the operation of the enchain-
ing devices shewn in Figures 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, and 12 of the
accompanying Drawings, but the bobbin within the rotating hook, as
also a separate brush for detaining the thread, are dispensed with, and
the flat hook T, the nose u of which points in the reverse direction to
that of the main hook K, forms part of or is attached to a ring b¹, which
is fitted with a circular opening in the face of the main hook K, and so
that the flat hook T lies within the grooves thereof behind the
path of the needle. Furthermore, the said ring b' is formed or other-
wise provided with a loop detaining wing or arm c¹ bent to project
outwards or in front of the ring, and taking the place of a separate
brush or pad. When the machine is in operation the blunt nose of the
hook T remains in contact with the back of the throat or heel of the
main hook K, so that the two hooks rotate in common.
Figures 7 and 8. represent the main hook as about to catch the loop of
the needle thread. 7, which as said hook continues its motion is extended,
as represented in Fig. 9, and ultimately carried round the main hook,
but as the inner side of the said loop escapes past the heel of the
rotating hook, as shown in Fig. 10, it slips over and passes behind the
flat hook Tand behind the needle k, while the other or outer side of
the said loop that has been detained by the wing or arm c¹ of the ring b¹
passes off the said wing, and as a new loop is carried down by the needle
(see Figures 10 and 11) the old loop in the further operation of the parts
is made to surround or enchain within it the new loop, as shewn in
Fig. 12, and as the operation is continued the tension tightens the
tambour or chain stitch thus produced.
A' is the ring frame which holds the ring 6' to its place in the main
hook K, said ring frame corresponding with the ordinary bobbin ring
used in well known rotating hook and bobbin machines, but said ring
frame is here provided with a screw or loop check d' (see Fig. 5) on the

page_text: ono side of it, and the face of the main hook is constructed from its
nose backwards, to the bevilled portion e' which gives the twist to the
loop, with an approximate bearing surface or channel f' to receive the
point of the screw d. This screw d¹ serves when the ring b¹ with its
hook T and wing or arm c³ is dispensed with to detain the loop. of
the needle thread when a bobbin B¹ (Fig. 5) carrying a locking
thread is substituted for the ring 6 in the main hook, for the same
purpose as the wing or arm c' of the ring b¹, namely, to produce an
enchaining of the needle thread loops, but with a locking thread inter-
lacing them. This is done by the point of the screw d' holding on to
the outer side of the loop for a greater or less length of time, while the
channel or surface f¹ travels past the point of the screw; said screw or
loop check d may also serve as an additional loop, check or detainer.in
case of any breakage of the arm or wing c¹ when a single thread is being
worked, and the ring 6 carrying the hook T is substituted for the
bobbin. In such case the screw d may have an advanced position
given to it by inserting it through an eye or boss g', or a change of
position may be adopted for the screw d'in any case, according to the
distention required for each loop in succession before it is liberated to
enchain, with or surround a new loop. No restriction is here placed
upon the direction of the main hook's rotation which may be reversed,
the other parts being made to correspond.
The needle thread / instead of passing through a short eye or guide on
the upper portion of the needle bar, as is usually the case is passed
through a tubular-guide 01 (see Figures 1 to 4), arranged to extend both:
in front and in rear of the needle bar D₁ and carried by the latter,
whereby snarling or twisting of the needle threads, as so frequently
occurs when a mere loop or short eye guide is used is avoided.
.
Reference will now be made to the several Figures of the Drawing,
from 21 to 27 inclusive, by way of explaining a modification of the
thread enchaining devices in which the rotating hook has combined with
it in place of the supplementary or flat hook, a central cam looper and
cast off, and a brush or pad for the retention and transposing of the
loop to produce a single thread chain stitch, as shewn in Fig. 13. Thus,
in Figures 21 to 27 inclusive, T is the cam looper and cast off provided-
with a shank in its rear which allows of its being inserted and firmly
held (with facility for removal when required) within the central portion
of the hook K which rotates in the direction indicated by the arrow .

page_text: .
This cam looper and cast off is bevilled or cut away on that side 6% of its
face which is next to the nose of the hook K, and is furthermore con-
structed with a spiral groove 6* commencing in front of the face of the
body of the hook, midway between the nose and heel of the latter and
running inwards to the back or inner side of the heel of the hook and
in rear of the needle k. It may also have a recess 6* in it to prevent the
point of the needle when the latter makes its descent, striking it'; C is
the cloth plate, and S the presser foot; T* is a pad or brush for detaining
the one loop on the hook till a succeeding loop penetrates it.
Supposing the parts to be in the position represented in Figures 21
and 22 of the Drawings, then the hook K takes the loop of the needle
thread, while the needle ascends, and as the hook continues to rotate
and the needle descends, the back or inner line of the needle thread
loop is caught by or in the spiral groove 6s of the combined cam looper
and cast off T', as represented in Fig. 24, the said back or inner line
of needle thread, as the hook continues to rotate in the direction of the
arrow being carried by the spiral groove b³ in rear of the needle, and so
that when the noset of the hook in its continued rotation reaches the
position shewn in Fig. 25, and the needle makes a fresh ascent, the back
,or inner line of the needle thread is in rear of the nose of the hook, and
the front or outer line of said thread is caught or held by the brush T²
till the succeeding loop of the needle thread is passed through the first
loop, after which as the parts continue their action the first loop is cast
off from the bevilled face or surface 6 of the cam looper T, as
represented in Fig. 27 of the Drawing, and the chain stitch thus
produced is tightened by the further combined action of the needle and
.feed.
Reference will now be made to Figures 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, and 33, of
the Drawings, by way of describing the modification therein and herein-
before referred to. Like letters indicate like parts in these Figures.
In the said modification the thread enchaining device consists of a flat
hook A* made of a thin piece of sheet metal, having firmly secured to
it a pivot a* which fits casily into the eye of the bobbin. B*. 'This
pivot a is made with a shoulder 6* of such thickness, that when' the
said pivot is inserted into the eye of the bobbin from the back or inner
side and the bottom inserted into the central cavity in the face of the
rotating hook C, the said hook A may enter the groove provided in
the hook for the entrance of the needle d*, and the outer surface of the

page_text: said hook A* may be behind the line of movement of the needle so that
the needle may pass between the said hook A* and the tongue or nose e*
of the rotating hook, as shown in Fig. 31. The said hook is made with
a blunt point g*, which is set in the reverse direction to the point of
the rotating hook, and for some distance back from this point it is made
of the form of an arc, the profile of which has a radius nearly corre-
sponding with that of the rotating hook C*; the back of the said hook
is rounded off, as shown at f* in Figures 28, 30, and 32, and the length
from the point g* to the back f* is such that when the point g* is in
contact with the back of the throat * of the rotating hook, the
back fis opposite to the heel ** of the rotating hook.
In the example
of the hook A*, shown in Figures 28, 29, and 31, a thin metal disc j*,
conforming to the exterior of the bobbin B* is attached to the pivot a*,
but in the example shown in Fig. 32, this disc is dispensed with, and
it may be remarked that the hook A* will work nearly as well with or
without the said disc.
In the application of the said thread enchaining device to the
Wheeler and Wilson or rotating hook and bobbin sewing machine, no
change whatever is required in the construction of the machine. The
pivot a* is placed in the eye of the bobbin and the hook A* and bobbin
placed together in the central cavity of the rotating hook O*, the pivot
of the hook A* being slipped through the groove c* and behind the
nose of the rotating hook, and the hook A* and bobbin being secured in
place by means of the well-known bobbin ring in the same manner as
the bobbin is ordinarily secured. When the machine is set in operation
the friction between the rotating hook, the bobbin, and the shoulder 6*
or disc j* of the rotating hook, as the case may be, causes the point 9*
of the hook A* to remain in contact with the back of the throat h* of
the rotating hook C*, and causes the hook A* to rotate with the
hook C. In the operation of the machine the loops of the needle
thread are extended by the rotating hook O* in the same manner as in
the Wheeler and Wilson machine without the enchaining device or
hook A*, but as that side of the loop, marked * in Fig. 31, which
passes over the inner side or back of the bobbin escapes past the heel
of the operating hook and the bend of the loop escapes from the
brush k*, pad, or other loop check, the said side 1* of the loop instead
of being drawn upward on the outer side of the needle, as it is when
the hook A is not applied, slips over and passes behind the hook A*,

page_text: as shewn in Figures 30 and 31, and is thereby conducted behind the
necdlc in such a manner as to surround the new loop. n which has just
been carried through the cloth by the needle, and as the first-mentioned
loop is drawn up toward the cloth by the extension of the new one by
the rotating hook, the first-mentioned loop is drawn tightly around the
new one. In this way the loops are enchained together on the under
side of the cloth, as shown in Fig. 33.
When a locking thread is used in the bobbin B* the said thread shown
in Figures 30, 31, and 33, passes through each of the loops of the needle
thread in the same manner as it does when the hook A is not used, and
forms, when using said hook, the locked chain stitch represented in
Fig. 33. If, however, the thread be omitted from the bobbin the
enchaining of the loops of the needle thread produces a chain or tambour
'stitch. It will thus be understood that the simple application of the
hook A to the Wheeler and Wilson machino enables that machine to
produce two stitches differing from each other and from the lock stitch
produced by the said machine without the hook A*, each loop of either
of the stitches thus formed by this modification having the threads once
crossed, as shown in Fig. 33.
Under this first head of the Invention I claim,―
First. The combination with the shaft D which operates the needle
bar of the crank wrist pins d, e, arranged at right angles or thereabouts
to each other, the correspondingly arranged wrist pins f, g, and the
connecting rods F, G, or their equivalents, substantially as specified.
Second. The combination of the pendulous weight I with the con-
necting rod G and the crank wrist pins e, g, or their equivalents,
essentially as described.
Third. The cloth plate or table C having the feeding, dog or slide
attached and constructed so as to be capable of being shifted to provide
for feeding in directions at right angles to each other or thereabouts,
substantially as specified..
Fourth. The feed operating excentric O, in combination with the
sliding and rocking excentric bar P, having an attached arm or driver Q,
and the slide L and feeding dog M, essentially as described.
Fifth. The combination with the shifting cloth plate C, the slide L,
spring, and feeding. dog M of the cam R and excentric O,. with its

page_text: A is the frame of the machine, and B the shaft, which carries at its
forward end the revolving hook, and which may also be the driving
shaft of the machine; O is the shaft which operates the needle bar;
this shaft is arranged to run at double the velocity of the shaft B, and
may derive its motion from the latter by means of a perforated steel or
other belt D and pulleys E, F, bearing the proportion of two to one,
and having studs on their outer perimeters arranged to enter the per-
forations & in the belt, for the purpose of getting a smooth motion free
from slip.
If desired the belt D when made of metal may have its porforations b
struck so that their blanks, instead of being cut out, arc turned over
outwardly to give a broader bearing on the studs of the pulloys, also said
belt may be lined with leather or other soft material. Spur gear or
other driving means might be substituted for the perforated belt, and
pulleys connected by the same. By giving the shaft C double the
velocity of the shaft B the needle bar G carrying the sewing needle c
makes two up-and-down strokes for each complete revolution of the
revolving hook shaft B, which carries at its forward end a double
hook H, H', cach hooked portion of which projects and simultaneously
moves in the same circular direction, and successively catches and draws
on the succeeding loops of the needle thread; this admits of two stitches
for one being made, as compared with a single revolving hook for a
given rotation or velocity of the hook shaft, which latter may accordingly
be driven at a slow or convenient treadle speed when a treadle motion is
applied to the latter. I is the cloth bed or table of the machine, and J
the presser foot thereof; K is the feeding dog; and L, the secondary
thread carrier or looper, the latter working a thread d, while the sewing
needle operates a thread e.
The thread carrier and looper L consists of a bar, which is bowed as
at f, and formed with an eye at its forward end, and which is recipro- :
cated as, for instance, by its attachment to an oscillating arm g of a
vertical shaft h. The thread carrier and looper L is arranged to travel
at its bowed or crooked portion fin front of tho needle c, and so that the
latter enters between it and the thread carried by said looper, which
latter operates altogether independently of the needle thread, that is
to say, takes no hold on the latter, and said secondary thread carrier or
looper L has its thread & passed through an eye i, and through a spring
tension device ¹ on the body of the looper, and from thence through an

page_text: eye at the front end of the crooked or bowed portion to form the loop
which passes through the loop of the needle thread.
The secondary thread carrier and looper L, as also the feeding dog K,
have each two forward movements for each revolution of the shaft B to
accord or act in unison with the revolving double hook H, H', on said
shaft. The means by which these movements are given will be herein-
after described.
In the operation of the stitching devices each time the sewing needle c
comes down and afterwards ascends, leaving a loop bebind it, one of
the hooks H, H₁, of the revolving double hook catches, and draws on
said loop, as shewn in Figure 45; and on the succeeding descent of the
needle, and in fact on each descent of the latter, the thread carrier L
comes forward through the needle thread loop, and so that the needle
with the portion of its thread which forms the succeeding loop, and
which in due course is caught by the other hook H or H¹ passes, as
represented in Figures 46 and 47, down on the inside or back of the bowed
or crooked portion of the looper L, and between it and the thread carried
by said looper thus interlacing or interlocking the loops of the two
threads, as clearly shewn in Figures 48 and 49 of the Drawing for the
succeeding operations of the stitching devices; the whole being subject
to the requisite tension and feed of the fabric each time the needle is
raised to complete or tighten the stitches as the interlaced loops are cast
from the revolving double hook. Each hooked portion or hook proper
of the double hook H, H', is constructed with a wing or guard k,
extending in its rear and flaring outwards to prevent the loop which is
being cast off from being accidentally caught by the succeeding hook in
its wake. No brush or pad to act as a check or detainer of the needle
thread loop is here necessary. ·
The take-up of the needle thread e consists of an excentric ring N
carrying an arm N' (see Fig. 43) through one or more eyes, in the outer
end of which latter the needle thread is passed, and may be controlled
at such point by an adjustable tension spring or device O. Said take-up
operates not only with an up-and-down but forwards-and-backwards
motion by attachment in its rear, as at l, to a rocking arm P having
its centre of motion at l, an excentric Q on the needle shaft G within
the ring N actuating the take-up, the outer or thread-controlling end of
which has by the actions above described an elliptic-like movement.
'

page_text: The feed, which is a four-motion one, is here represented as being
capable of being changed, so as either to feed the cloth on a transverse
relation with the shaft B or in parallel relation therewith from back to
front of the machine, to which end the cloth plate or bed I is made
capable of being turned about to suit such changes in the direction of
the feed, and has attached to it the slide which carries the rising-and-
falling feeding dog K; also the presser foot J is constructed with a
lateral turned-up portion to adapt it to a changed direction of feed.
But there are peculiarities in this application about the construction of
the feed cam and mechanism for operating a feed arm or driver when
the direction of the feed is changed that are both important and new.
Thus R is the feed cam on the shaft B, by which upward motion is com-
municated to the feeding dog K, as also forward motion thereto through
the slide S, as against the weight of the feeding dog, and one or more
springs m, by which the downward-and-backward movement of the
feeding dog is controlled. This is when the feed is required to be in a
direction parallel with the shaft B, and, to give two feeding strokes for
each revolution of the shaft B, so as to adapt the feed to the double
revolving hook H, H¹. Said cam is provided with opposite swells or
rises n, n, on its perimeter to give the lift to the dog, and two oppositely
arranged bevilled or spiral projections o, o, on the face of the cam to give
the feeding dog K its forward strokes.
When the feed is required to be in a direction which is transverse to
the shaft B then the necessary two feeding strokes of the dog K for
each revolution of the hook shaft are given through a driving arm T
attached to a bar or bars U, which not only has a reciprocating motion
backwards and forwards, but is at liberty to rise and fall by means of
a free pin and slotted connection as at p of said bar in its rear. The
arm T in rising and moving forwards operates directly and through the
instrumentality of the slide S on the feeding dog K to feed the fabric,
while the lowering and backward motions of said arm allows of the
feeding dog by its weight and by the action of the spring or springs m,
dropping and resuming its normal backward position. To effect this
action, that is, to give two feeding strokes to the lifting and driving
arm T for each revolution of the hook shaft, the bar U which may be
divided longitudinally but is virtually a single bar is operated by reverse
cams V, V¹, on the shaft B, arranged to work in a double excentric ring,
that is, two reversely set excentric_rings W, W', attached to the bar U.

page_text: A similar mechanical movement consisting of reverse cams V³, V³, on
the shaft B and operating in or on reversely set excentric rings W³, W³,
which are guided in an up-and-down direction, with freedom to move
laterally, and have attached to them a slotted rocking arm T¹ serves,
through the instrumentality of a horizontal lever Y, to give the
necessary two double strokes, that is, twice forwards and twice backwards,
to the secondary thread carrier or looper L for each revolution of the
shaft B when the latter carries a double hook H, H¹, as described. This
is readily effected by a pin and slotted arm connection r of the lever Y
at its forward end with the shaft of the secondary thread carrier or
looper L.
When it is required to produce a straight or ordinary locked thread
stitch, then the secondary thread carrier or looper L is dispensed with
or thrown out of action, and a bobbin carrying an independent thread
introduced within the revolving double hook H, H', and held in place
by an ordinary bobbin ring z, for action as in other locked thread sewing
machines; but, by reason of the two successively operating hooks
H, H', doing twice the amount of sewing for a given number of revo-
tions of the shaft B carrying the hooks.
.'
In some cases a single hook H or H' travelling at twice the velocity of
the double hook may be used.
Under this second head of the Invention I claim,-
First. A revolving double hook H, H', in combination with an eye
pointed sewing needle, having two complete sewing operations for each
revolution of said hook, substantially as described.
Second. The revolving double hook H, H', constructed with out-
wardly projecting wings or guards k in the rear of its hooked portions
or hooks proper, essentially as and for the purpose herein set forth.
Third. The reciprocating secondary thread carrier or looper L bowed
at and constructed with an eye at its forward end for the passage of
its thread in a loop form, through the loop of the needle thread, essen-
tially as described.
Fourth. The tension device on the reciprocating thread carrier or
looper L.
Fifth The combination of a revolving hook with the mainctio

page_text: secondary thread carrier or looper L, and an eye pointed sewing needle,
substantially as specified.
Sixth. The combination of the revolving double hook H, H', the
sewing needle c, a reciprocating secondary thread carrier or looper L,
and a feeding dog or device for operation in relation with each other, 5
substantially as described.
Seventh. The feed cam R constructed with double swells or rises n, n,
on its perimeter, and two bevilled or spiral projections o, o, on its face,
in combination with the slide S and feeding dog K, essentially as
specified.
Eighth. The revolving reverse cams V, V₁, in combination with the
excentric rings W, W', of the bar U having an attached feed driver T,
substantially as described.
1
Ninth. The revolving reverse cams V₁, V³, in combination with the
excentric rings W³, W³, with their attached arm T¹, the lever Y, and the 1
reciprocating secondary thread carrier L, substantially as described.
Tenth. The needle thread take-up N, N¹, attached in its rear to a
rocking arm P, and constructed for operation by an excentric Q on the
needle shaft, essentially as specified.
Eleventh. The tension spring or device O applied to the needle thread 2
take-up, constructed to operate as described.
Twelfth. The perforated endless belt or band D in combination with
the pulleys E, F, carrying studs or projections on their perimeters, essen-
tially as described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Alfred Vincent Newton, have here- 2
unto set my hand and seal, the Twenty-eighth day of December,