Improvements in Machines for Sewing Boots and Shoes, Leather, Harness, Belting, and the like.
Year: 1895

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Machines for Sewing Boots and Shoes, Leather,
Harness, Belting, and the like.
We, WILLIAM HENRY HINGSTON and MICHAEL COLWELL MULLARKY,
both of Montreal, in the Province of Quebec, Canada, do hereby declare the
nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This invention relates to machines for uniting the soles and uppers of boots and
shoes, and for stitching leather, harness, belting, and other articles and materials,
by means of a metal wire, or thread of other materials, running continuously and
locked at the loops by short transverse lengths of wire, or other material, both
wires being fed continuously from reels or bobbins without previous bending or
other preparation. The operation of the improved machine is such that the boot
or shoe does not require to be turned inside out, the sole does not need to be
channelled, nor does the perforation or stitch in any case extend completely
through the outer layer of material on the contrary, the loops are locked by the
short transverse pieces within the body of the outer layer, leaving the surface
intact.
The main features of the improvements are: the adjustable feed, the loop
inserter and its carrier,-adjusting devices for the loop inserter, presser-foot, and
"combined awl and nail driver," and the mechanism for supplying the locking,
pieces, the whole being designed to facilitate the proper running of the machine,
and effect a more ready adjustment and replacement of the various parts.
In the accompanying drawings, forming part of this Specification, similar letters
and figures of reference indicate like parts.
Figure 1 is a front view of the machine, showing the swinging horn in a central
position;
Fig. 2, a part vertical elevation and sectional view of same, taken at right angles
to Fig. 1.
Figs. 3, 4, and 5 detail views of the nose of the horn and mechanism arranged
therein for introducing the continuous thread;
Fig. 6, a horizontal section of machine on line xx Fig. 2.
Fig. 7, a horizontal section on line az Fig. 3, looking up;
Fig. 8, a detail perspective view of loop-inserter ;
Fig. 9, a detail front view of goose-head and upper portion of body of machine;
Fig. 10, a part vertical elevation and sectional view of same at right angles to
Fig. 9.
Fig. 11, a section on line x x
Fig. 10.
Fig. 12, is a section on line 1-1 Fig. 10, looking down; and Fig. 13 a section
on line 1 Fig. 10 looking up;
Figs. 14, 15, 16, 17, and 18 are sections respectively on lines 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6,
Fig. 10.
Fig. 19 is an enlarged detail view of feed foot;
Figs. 20, and 21 are cross sections of front part of awl carrier on lines xxz,
Fig. 15.
Fig. 22 is a horizontal section on line 7-7 Fig. 10 looking up;
Fig. 23 is a vertical section on linea a Fig. 22.
Fig. 23 is a front elevation of the base of head section partly broken away and
detachable front pieces removed;

page_text: Fig. 24 is a detail vertical section of portions of operating mechanism and
adjusting mechanism for varying thicknesses of material;
Fig. 25 is a horizontal section on line z z Fig. 24 showing a portion of such
adjusting mechanism in plan view;
Fig. 26 is a vertical section on line xx Fig. 24.
Fig. 27 a horizontal section on line,
y y Fig. 24.
Fig. 28 a face view of the head of the machine with front plate removed, and
Fig. 29 a vertical section on line x x Fig. 28.
Similar letters of reference indicate like parts.
A is the main frame of the machine in the form of a hollow tapering pedestal or
column having an extension A', with an opening A in it, and arın A³ extending
from its front, also carrying on its upper end a top plate a' perforated to accom-
modate a vertical shaft and forming a base for head-section A' also perforated to
form a bearing for the vertical shaft and cut away to accommodate cams on the
same, and terminating in a goose head A5, which is in line with the extension A'
and arm A³.
B is the born, hollow, and provided with a vertical chamber B¹ projecting from
the inner end of its horizontal portion down through the upper part of the
extension A', which forms a bearing for it. To insure a steady vertical alignment
throughout the sidewise rotation or swinging movement of the horn and arm B²,
the upper side of its horizontal portion is pivoted to the arm A in the axial line
(indicated in Fig. 2) of the chamber B'. In the nose of the horn is arranged the
loop inserter, and this, with the presser-foot carried by the goose-head A', works
vertically in the axial line of the sleeve B', the presser-foot offering the necessary
resistance to the action of the loop-inserter and awl and in this respect fulfilling a
function of the usual work-table.
C is the loop-inserter with inserting portion proper (shown in detail in Fig. 8)
preferably of an oval form in cross section for strengthening purposes, grooved at
its upper end and partially down one side or edge and fully down the other to
carry the continuous thread of uniting material, and having a circular base c with
central perforation e' in line with the groove extending the full length of the loop
inserter, and annular peripheral flange c, the flat inserting portion proper
being arranged excentrically of such base so as to allow of such central perforating
of the base through which the thread of uniting material passes up to the inserting
portion.
The flange on the base of the loop inserter fits a horizontal groove c³ (a section
of which presents substantially the arc of a circle concentric with such base formed
in the inner side of an upwardly projecting wall or ridge c extending partially
around the top of a moveable cross-head C¹ working in vertical guides C on the
inner sides of the nose of the horn shown in Figs. 3 & 4 the base of the loop
inserter being slid sidewise into place through the opening left in the wall c¹ and
then secured in place by means of a pin cinserted in a horizontal passage through
the wall c. in front of the base c.
This arrangement allows the cross head to be rotated with the horn about the
base of the loop inserter without any chance of altering the vertical position of
the inserter in any way relatively to the cross head while the use of the flange c
and groove secures solid bearings against upward and downward pressure upon
the loop inserter.
Vertical reciprocating movement is imparted to this cross-head C¹ preferably by
cam mechanism, together with a vertical sliding bar D' extending vertically across
the opening A in the extension of the frame, working in the sleeve B' of the horn,
and a guide in the lower part of such extension, a screw in such bar, all to be more
fully described, and bell-crank levers D and E, a geared segment d' and connecting
rods D2 D3, these latter, arranged within the horn and connected as shown in
Figs. 2 and 4, the connection between the geared segment and the cross-head C
being by means of a projection d² from the segment d' fitting within a recess d³ in
the body of the cross-head.

page_text: Fig. 3 is a section taken through portions of two substances, (in the present case)
resting on the nose of the horn and also through a portion of such horn (the cap of
which is broken away) on the line of the union, the view being in the direction
indicated by the arrow in Fig. 4 and as it is necessary for the loop-inserter C, not
being round, but flat, to be kept always in a line at right angles to the forward
movement of the awl whatever may be the position of the horn (which right angle
line will be as indicated by the dotted line 2, Fig. 5) the mechanism hereinafter
described is used to retain the loop-inserter in such position.
The upper surface of the nose of the horn is composed of a cap or plate b,
conforming to the usual contour of such nose, screwed in place and having two
circular openings, whose axes are in line with the longitudinal axis of the horn and
with interior annular recesses in the plate encircling them, in which fit, so that
their exteriors will be flush with the exterior of the plate, two geared disks b' b³,
the former having an eccentric slot perpendicular with the dotted line 2 shown in
Fig. 5 up into which the end of the loop-inserter C projects, and through which it
works to drive the continuous thread in a loop into the substances, as shown in
Fig. 3, the slot being long enough to accommodate the thread' at one side of the
loop-inserter, and the disk & having on its interior face radial teeth 6" with which
meshes a bevel-pinion on the end of the shatt 6 (the upper end of which has a
bearing in the hollowed upper surface of the segment d') running down the horn, and
by means of another shaft and other gears 68, 18, 10, 61, communicate with an
annular rack on the extension A¹ encircling the sleeve B¹ of the horn. These
disks are held in place simply by confinement between the plate and the
body of the horn, and are in mesh with each other and free to be rotated in such
bearing. By such means and the flange and groove connection of the loop inserter
with the cross-head C¹ the loop-inserter whether the horn be turned to right or
left, will not turn, as the gear b", being rotated by travelling along the rack b¹³,
transmits motion through the system of shafts and gears to give a rotation to the
gear in the same direction as that of the nose of the horn, and so counteracts
any rotation that would have with it and the cross-head C¹, the groove c³ of this
latter simply working on the flange of the base c of the loop-inserter, and so
allowing it to remain substantially in the same position.
The vertical guides C' for the cross-head carrying the loop-inserter are made in
the form of adjustable blocks or strips let into squared vertical recesses on the
inner side of the nose of the horn and having dove-tailed ways formed in their
faces to receive the angular ribs on the sides of the cross-head, the adjustment
of the guides being, secured by screws e passing through the sides of the horn and
bearing against them. This arrangement allows any wear of the guides to be
tuken up or new ones to be inserted.
The mechanism for adjusting the length of throw of the loop-inserter C will be
better understood after the parts connected with the awl and presser-foot mechanism
have been described.
In an oblong recess a, in the top plate a' (see Figs. 10 & 12) is arranged a
slide F, corresponding in shape and depth to the recess, so as to flush with the top
plate, but shorter in length, and having a central opening for cams, mounted on the
vertical shaft referred to and to be hereinafter described, to work in, to this slide
toward the rear is attached by screws ff, the section G¹ of a hinge carrier formed
of two sections G G', g being the hinge-pin. The head section A of the machine
is cut away at its base and front to accommodate the section G of this carrier, which
is also formed with an opening to accommodate cams on the vertical shaft, and
projects out through the front of such head section toward the nose of the horn,
and is preferably normally held in an inclined position by an adjustable screw G
with perforated head, arranged in the top plate a' near the front, as shown in
Figs. 9, 10 and 12. The awl H of the machine is arranged in this carrier, and, as
shown in Figs. 13, 14, 15, and 20 is secured by screws h in a cross-head Hi located
in a longitudinal slot G³ in the forward end of the carrier G and adapted to receive
a reciprocating motion from mechanism to be hereinafter described. The nose.of

page_text: •
carrier G is perforated, as shown at g Fig. 14, for the passage of the awl, and in
a groove g at right angles to this perforation a slide J, with a channel j parallel
with the perforation is arranged to work and serves.to cut the short lengths of wire
to be inserted by the awl, i from a continuous strand fed into channel ; from
feeding mechanism at certain intervals through another channel to be described and
also to locate them in a position in front of the awl, as will be explained in the
operation of the machine."
K K are two horizontal disks with serrated peripheral grooves, as shown in
Figs. 15 and 20, for feeding the continuous strand k from which the short strips k¹,
as shown in Fig. 15 are cut, into the channel in the interior of the forward end
of the carrier and leading to channel ; of the slide J. The channel and recesses
for the disks K K' are formed in the upper surface of a portion G' of the carrier
about half its thickness, (see Fig. 20) and by means of plates the carrier is
evened up to the full thickness. This construction is also convenient for providing
the proper guideways for the cross-head H'. The disk K is keyed on a spindle ko,
passing completely through the carrier and having mounted on its lower end a
ratchet K to be operated as will be described further on, and K¹ is pivoted in the
free end of a spring holder k'-screwed to the side of the carrier, by which the
necessary friction is secured for feeding various sizes of wire and compensating
for any wear.
Referring now to Figs. 9, 10, 11, 16, 28 and 29, L is the presser-foot bar,
secured in place in a vertical channel in the goose-head A' by the face-plate a³,
having a slot a and adapted to work vertically in such head above and in line with
the loop-inserter C.
L' indicates a longitudinal slot in the central portion of the bar L, in which slot
is fitted, so as to be adjustable in it, a slide L. This slide has a slot l, into which
project the ends of the operating-lever L. and an adjusting wedge-piece M, to be
more particularly described, and has the lower end of a vertical male adjusting
screw L' threaded in a female screw L°, working through the upper portion of the
bar L, connected with its upper end, as shown in Figs. 28 and 29, a handle being
adjustably secured to the top of the female screw L. by a jam nut whereby upon
the rotation of such handle and the screw L' the presser-foot bar is moved up or
down and another vertical adjusting screw L' is arranged to work in a bracket l',
projecting from the back side of the bar L in a line with the forward end of the
carrier G and come in contact with same, and each of said screws being provided
with the respective jam nuts 12, 18, 14, and acting as mentioned further on, the
screw L' of course having the jain nut before mentioned, in addition.
In a horizontal groove in the web of the head-section about level with the slot
in the slide L' when the presser-foot is in its raised position, as in Fig. 10, is
arranged to work a slide M', to the forward end of which the wedge-piece M is pivoted
at m, retaining plates are secured to the edges of the groove holding it in place.
This slide is grooved almost from end to end to accommodate a coiled expansion-
spring m', as shown in Figs. 11 and 16, one end of which bears against the rear face
of the front portion of the goose-head A, and the other bears against a lateral
projection m² from the outer face of the slide, so as to keep a bearing surface M³,
projecting at right angles thereto, pressing against an operating-cam to be presently
described with several others, an adjustable localizing pin m³ for the spring m
being screwed into the front portion of the goose-head and extended rearward and
freely through an aperture in the projection m². A rack M is formed on the face
of the slide for about half its length from the rear end, with which meshes a
pinion M, mounted on a vertical shaft M, extending from a bearing in the top of
the head section down through apertures in the carrier G, slide F, and top plate a
to and through the bearing me (Fig. 25) situated in the interior of the pedestal A
about level with the collar B', and on its lower end above such bearing is fixed a
pinion Me.
D' is the vertical sliding bar previously mentioned in relation to the loop-
inserter C, having its upper portion, which works in the sleeve B₁ of the horn,

page_text: hollow and screw-threaded to receive the screw M', provided with a head m' and
neck m³, projecting above the top of the bar, the latter. as shown in Fig. 27
being partially encircled loosely by the collar-segments E', pivoted to the ends of
the forked bell-crank lever E pivoted in the horn. Gear teeth 10 are cut in the
screw M near its lower end, and a toothed rack M supported in a groove in the
side of the collar B next the bottom of the extension A' and on the bracket m®,
has one end in mesh with such teeth mto and the other in mesh with the pinion M⚫.
on the shaft M by which arrangement the adjusting mechanism of the presser-bar
is connected with that of the loop-inserter and a unison of operation, to be
described, is effected.
In a lateral curved recess of a runway in the top of the forward end of
carrier G is arranged a feed foot g³ in the form of a curved block with teeth or
serrations on one side adapted to come in contact with the stock on the horn and.
feed same as will be hereinafter described. (Fig. 14.)
A lever g is pivoted at go to the underside of the top plate a' and has its outer
end arranged to bear upward against the underside of a slide located in a runway
formed in the bottom of the top plate having a detachable part a' held in place by
the screws a³, to allow of easy access to such slide. This slide is formed in two
parts one of which 7, is in wedge form and pivoted at 98 to the other part g' which.
is channeled to receive a portion of the other and has gear teeth go on one of its.
sides. The toothed portion of the slide intermeshing with a pinion g" on the
shaft M and the wedge portion supporting an intermediate pusher G* preferably
formed of a coiled spring g with suitable bearing end pieces and working in a.
vertical opening in the top plate a', the upper end of such pusher bearing against
the under side of the carrier G and acting with the other parts in adjusting same.
as will be more fully explained in the operation of the machine.
It now remains to explain the mechanism for operating the parts just described.
and the complete operation of the machine.
N is the driving shaft, carried in suitable bearings horizontally through the-
frame A at a height which brings its front end opposite the centre of the
opening A, and having mounted on its rear end the driving pulley, and on its-
front a disk O for operating the vertical awl, and having a cam shaped groove O¹
in its face, in which fits a roller 0%, carried by a sliding bar D', and about midway
a bevel-gear N', intermeshing with a similar one N on the end of a vertical.
countershaft N extending up through a lower bearing N' in the pedestal to an
upper one formed in the top of the head-section A'.
P is a cam roller (for operating the awl) keyed on the shaft N
top plate a', having a peripheral groove p on it, containing a high
lower "rise" p².
"
just below the
rise" and a.
On a spindle 1', carried in projections from the front of the pedestal, is mounted
a bell-crank lever P' in the pedestal and carrying at its end a roller P* to fit the
groove p (Fig. 18) in such cam-roller P, and its other arm extending vertically up.
toward the carrier G and having its end connected with the cross-head H¹ by a
link Po pivoted to the downwardly projecting lug of such cross-head and to the end.
of such vertical arm.
Proceeding upward, the first Q of a series of cams above the top plate on the
shait N is for operating the mechanism for feeding the continuous strand of wire k,.
its contour being shown in Figs. 10 and 13. The cam Q also operates the
mechanism for feeding the continuous strand of wire k, before mentioned, by means.
of a rise q on its side which imparts a lateral reciprocating movement to the forked
end of a lever Q³, above the cam Q comes the cam R, of the shape shown in.
Fig. 13 also, for securing the engagement and disengagement of the feed foot with.
the stock; one S (of the shape shown in Fig. 14) for operating the slide J which
cuts the small pieces of wire from the continuous strand and feeds them to the awl;.
and another T (of the contour shown in Fig. 15) for securing the feeding movement...
of the feed foot.

page_text: Above these again is situated a cam grooved roller V, having a peripheral
groove V (Fig. 17) in it, containing a rise V2 for raising the presser-foot bar,
whose lever L pivoted at to the web of the head section, carries on its inner end
a roller L which fits such groove and such cam groove roller also having a
downward projection on its underside for purposes hereinafter mentioned. The
uppermost cam W consisting of an angular block screwed to the top of cam V and
having one end let into a recess in a collar wo intermediate between the cam V and
the head of the machine, serves to actuate the slide M' and consequently the wedge
piece M to which it is attached at m, the contour of this cam W being shown on
Fig. 16.
The description of the intermediate connections between the parts first described
and those just referred to will be better given in the explanation of the working of
the machine and the adjustment of its several parts for accommodating varying
sizes of material, with which explanation we will therefore now proceed.
To allow the stock to he placed on the horn conveniently, the nose of the
carrier G can be raised by hand to the height shown by dotted lines, Fig. 10, so as
to have plenty of space between both noses.
Te accommodate a less or greater projection of the edge of the material beyond
the nose of the horn, the position of the carrier G must be regulated by hand
before the machine is started, as will now be explained, reference being had to
Figs. 10 and 12.
A bolt F passes through the rear of the top plate and its inner end has a loose
screw threaded connection with the rear of the slide F, the bolt having a rigid
collar about midway of its length which fits a recess in such top plate to hold it
against longitudinal movement and by the rotation of this bolt the necessary
adjustment of such carrier is effected, the adjustment (shown in Fig. 12) being
what is required by a slight projection of the material, the carrier being moved
close to the horn. To firmly set the slide F in any position to which it may be
adjusted by the bolt F' we use a set screw F³ carried vertically in the lower part
of the head section A and being adapted to bear upon and pinch the slide F. For
greater or less vertical thickness of material there must be an accommodating and
corresponding variation in the depression of the presser-foot, the working position
of the carrier G, in which the awl is carried, and the movement of the loop-
inserter, in order that the two implements will always work in the required relation
to each other, and to perfect this adjusting mechanism embracing the wedge-
piece M, screw L', rack-slide M', pinion M, vertical shaft M³, pinion gl, slides g', 98
of rack and wedge construction, pusher G, and screw M7, with connections between
them is used.
The maximum height at which the horizontal awl may work is shown by the
inclination of the carrier in chain lines in Fig. 10, and its normal position after the
work is placed on the horn is shown in full lines. There is always a fixed working
relation or distance between the bottom of the presser foot and the awl which can
be regulated or varied when the stock to be worked is extremely thick or thin, by
means of the adjusting screw L'.
During the working of the machine the screw L' forms as it were, a fixed part
of the presser foot and always depresses the carrier for the distance determined by
the extent of downward movement of the presser foot so that any minor differences
or gradations in the thickness of a piece of stock are accommodated and the awl
inserted always at the same distance from the surface of the stock upon which the
presser foot bears.
In the case of a very thin piece of stock the vertical working distance between
the awi and the bottom of the presser foot would be diminished by raising the
adjusting screw L7 so that the awl would not be lowered to a working position
below the stock. In the present case as medium-sized stock is shown in place, it
will be necessary to depress the carrier to the position indicated by dotted lines in
Fig. 10 and the screw L' must be adjusted accordingly before the machine is

page_text: started, if the stuff were very thin the screw I would be as just mentioned,
raised accordingly and if very thick the actions would be reversed the screw L'
being lowered.
Everything is now in readiness to start, and in order that the relative operation
of the several parts may be thoroughly understood it will be well to divide a single
rotation of the horizontal and vertical shafts of like speed into the sixteen degrees
of movement indicated by radial dashes wherever the shafts show in section and
extended at different points when required. Before starting the machine the
presser foot L is lowered to a normal working position by giving the handle Pa
complete turn and with it the female screw L, which latter is held against any
longitudinal movement in an upward direction by the jam nut 1, and in a downward
direction by the screw L having its lower end bearing through the slide L' upon
the lever L, causes the downward movement of the presser-foot to the normal
position shown in Figs. 10, 28, and 29. It is to avoid any chances of damage to
the loop inserter in the event of the machine being set in operation without any
stock in position and the presser-foot down, that I employ means for securing an
extra elevation (shown in dotted lines Fig. 28) of the presser foot when the
machine is idle, which means consist of the screw L and handle . To proceed
with the operation of the machine the retation of the shafts is in the direction
indicated by the arrows, and the first degree of movement will cause the riser of
the cam R to bear against the arm of a curved lever R', which is located and
pivoted at in a recess in the underside of the carrier G, and operating the
lever R to throw forward a sliding bar R2 pivotally connected with it at, and
through such bar imparting to the feed foot g³, with which its forward end has a
sliding connection by means of a projection fitting a groove in the underside
of such feed foot, the necessary movement to engage the stock.
The first degree of rotation also allows the cam piece W to push outward the
rack slide M and with it the wedge piece M to its fullest extent and with its
narrowest part interposed between the bearing end of the lever L' and the bottom
edge of the slot 7, so as to be in a position to be moved inwardly after the presser
foot (which has a free sliding movement in its vertical guides) is allowed to descend
and simply rest upon the stock without pressure, by the lowering of the forward end
of such lever L3, to the regular depth determined by the position of the slide L' in
the presser foot and the invariable downward throw of the lever L³ through the rise
in the peripheral groove V₁ of the cam roller V acting on the opposite end, which
forward end of the lever is located in the slot as before mentioned, this action of
the lever taking place upon the second degree of rotation.
As the lever L³ has an invariable throw of say three eighths of an inch and it is
required that the movement of the presser foot shall accommodate extreme
differences in the thicknesses of separate pieces of stock and stock which may be of
an irregular thickness the hand adjustment in the form of the screw L' and slide L³
are used to alter the normal position of the presser-foot relatively to the horn when
extremely thick or thin stock is being sewn while the automatic accommodation of
the presser foot of medium differences and irregularities in thickness is secured by
the automatically actuated wedge-piece M.
"
The second degree of rotation also secures the feeding forward of the stock by the
lateral movement of the feed foot g³ through the riset on cam T throwing the
lever T pivoted at t° through its forked end to the position shown by dotted lines
in Fig. 15 and consequently moving the forward end of such lever in the required
direction to impart such lateral movement to the feed foot g³.
u
The lever Ti carries on its upper side a projection which is preferably in the form
of a beut flat spring u' secured to the lever by a screw at one end and having its.
other end held in place by a localizing pin 2 projecting from its underside into a.
recess, and which forms with the projection u, on the underside of cam roller V, the
parts for depressing the carrier, as hereafter described.
The second degree of rotation will also enable the rise s on cam S to throw the
forked.lever S¹ pivoted at 'to the carrier G, to the position shown by dotted lines

page_text: in Fig. 14 thus causing the forward end of such lever, in which works a pin g²
encircled by a roller sleeve projecting up from slide J, to draw such slide outward
to a position which will place the channel j in line with the end of the channel,
through which the continuous strand is fed; and also allow a clear way for the
movement of the awl H.
The third degree. of rotation brings the wedge piece M into play, such wedge up
to this time remaining in the position, as before mentioned, to be moved inwardly,
as soon as the cam piece W in its rotation allows the slide M' to be thrown inward
by the spring m¹ this now taking place, and the wedge piece M being forced inwardly
through the open space between the forward end of the lever L and the bottom
edge of the slot 7 for a distance dependent upon the length of such opening, which
is determined by the thickness of the stock on the horn with the consequent extent
of the downward movement of the presser foot to reach the same. If the stock be
thicker, the presser-foot of course will not fall so far, the space between the end of
the lever L and the bottom of the slot will therefore be diminished, and a
consequently less degree of inward movement of the wedge piece allowed, while if
the stock is thinner the presser-foot will fall further, such space will be extended,
and the wedge piece be allowed to move through the same for a greater distance.
As will be easily seen, any such automatic adjustment as has been described in
connection with the presser-foot must necessitate a corresponding adjustment in the
throw of the loop-inserter and the position of the awl, and this is secured by
transmitting the variation through the screw L', the rack M³, pinion M*, shaft M³,
-und screw M7 (located in the sliding bar D') and the connections between them.
The operation of the parts acting in connection with the screw L' for allowing
the adjustment of the horizontal awl by such screw, and which consist of pinion gi
on shaft M, slides 97, 98 and pusher G acting upon the carrier G for such awl,
consists simply in elevating the carrier and awl at the required time to a point
(shown in chain lines in Fig. 10) above its working position so that the screw L' in
descending with the presser-foot will always press the carrier to the proper working
position (shown in dotted lines in Fig. 10) this elevation being the result of the
.movement of lever 98, the forward end of which bears through the wedge portion g
upon the pusher G. In order that the operating strength or tension of the
spring 2 of the pusher G may always remain the same whether it supports the
carrier at a higher or lower point, the pusher has its working position adjusted
relatively to the carrier by the movement of the wedge shaped rack slide 97, 98
beneath it as may be determined by the rotation of the shaft M' through the move-
ment of the wedge M rack slide M¹ and pinion M', the movement of the wedge 97
determining the working position, so to say of the pusher, with the result that the
awl is held steadily in its working position relatively to the presser-foot.
The action of the wedge pieces M and 9' relatively to each other is such that as
the wedge M interposes its wider portion, as in the case of the presser-foot moving
downward to reach thinner stock, the wedge piece. 9' interposes its narrower part
to secure a correspondingly lower working position of the carrier G and with it
:the awl H.
The operation of the parts, for regulating the upward thrust of the loop-inserter,
which, including the wedge piece M, the sliding rack M', pinion M, and shaft M³,
also forming part of the awl regulating mechanism, consist of pinion MⓇ on the
lower end of such shaft, toothed rack M³, teeth m10 on the lower part of screw M',
and such screw, working in and carried by the sliding bar D' may be, thus
described :-
Before explaining the particular operation of the screw M it will be best to
point out that the sliding bar D' has an inverted vertical throw, or, to be more
exact, a vertical drop, as it is, by the falling of the roller O* carried by it, into the
"fall" in the groove O', in the face of the disk O (shown in Fig. 26) and the
consequent downward movement of the bar that the upward movement of the loop-
inserter is affected. The bell-crank lever E in Fig. 24 is shown in its normal
position, the collar segments E' thereof being at the top of the neck m³ and in

page_text: contact with head m² of screw M' carried in the sliding bar D¹, which head is
required to depress such horizontal arms of the lever E.
The rotation of the pinion Me through the rotation of the shaft M³ by the sliding
rack M and pinion M* as before described, in connection with the regulation of
the awl H, transmits through the rack M and teeth mo, rotary motion to the
screw M.
Now before the rise of the loop-inserter takes place, the proper adjustment is
communicated to the screw M' through the means mentioned, and this consists in
increasing the distance between the head of the screw and the collar-segments of
the lever E by rotating the screw in one direction and so raising it as the material
may become thinner and a short throw of the loop inserter be required, as it will
easily be seen that if during the downward movement of bar D' no portion of such
motion is lost to the lever E, as will be the case in uniting the thickest material,
the loop-inserter will be raised to its highest point. This regulating of the extent
of the upward thrust of the loop-inserter, takes place simultaneously with the
regulation of the awl H.
During the second, third, fourth, fifth and a portion of the sixth degrees of
rotation, the sliding bar D' has been drawn down and with it the head of screw M',
which latter as before mentioned, is in contact with the segments E¹ of the bell-
crank lever E and through it imparted the necessary upward movement to the loop
inserter C through the intermediate bell crank lever rod and other connections, the
thrust being completed only upon about half of the sixth degree of rotation, the
loop inserter being sufficiently withdrawn from the stock upon the sixth degree to
allow the awl H to be inserted, the operation of which awl will now be described.
Also upon the sixth degree of rotation the downward projection y on the under-
side of cam Q depresses the inner end of lever 95, causing its outer end to raise the
carrier G through the wedge piece 97 and pusher G to its proper working position
as will have been determined by such wedge piece 9' before described, after which
and upon a quarter of the rotation of the seventh degree the high rise p¹ in the
peripheral groove p of cam P will cause the vertical arm of lever P2 to be thrown
forward the distance indicated by axial line I, and so drive the cross-head Hi
forward and the awl through the loop of the stitch that has been formed by the
loop-inserter and the remaining rotation of the seventh degree withdrawing it.
During the eighth degree the feed foot g' is drawn inward by the riser of
cam R bearing against the arm of the curved lever R¹ thus drawing backward
the sliding bar R and with it the feed foot y' out of contact with the stock.
The rotation during the ninth degree will, by means of the rise q' of cam Q
(shown in Fig. 13) move the forked end of the lever Q' to the chain line position
shown, and the spring-bolt Q3 projecting from the opposite end of same in contact
with ratchet K, will rotate the same a single step and cause the disk K to feed
the strand of wire held between it and K along channel into channel; in the
slide J:
The rotation during the tenth degree causes the lateral movement of the feed.
foot back to its normal position this being effected through the rise on
cam T throwing the forked lever T' back to its normal position shown in full lines
Fig. 15.
The rotation during the tenth degree will also cause rise s on cam S to throw
slide J back to its original position, with channel j in line with perforation I, and.
by so doing sever the length of wire that has been fed into channel j, and so
located in the path of the awl which, during the twelfth degree of rotation, is by
means of the lower rise p³ of cam-roller P throwing the vertical arm of lever P
the distance indicated by axial line 2, caused to drive forward the piece of wire in
front of it and located in the loop, thus locking the loop, its return taking place
upon the thirteenth degree.
At the termination of the thirteenth degree of rotation the cam piece W comes
in contact with the bearing, surface M2 of the slide M' and its subsequent action
tends to throw outward the wedge piece M to its norinal position shown in Fig. 16.
B

page_text: At the completion of the fourteenth degree the downward projection 7 on the
underside of cam Q clears the inner end of the lever thereby making it possible
for the carrier to be pushed down to its normal position as will be presently
mentioned.
At the fifteenth degree the position of the wedge piece M relatively to the
presser-foot, and the lever L' is such that the presser-foot can be raised to its
fullest extent by the upward movement of the forward end of lever L³ which takes
place during the remaining rotation of the fifteenth degree, this operation of the
lever being caused by the fall in the peripheral groove V' of cam roller L*.
The sixteenth degree suffices, through the rise u on the underside of cam roller V,
bearing on the spring projection ul on the upper side of lever T', to depress the
carrier G thus completing a full cycle of operation.
In connection with the feeding of the stock we arrange an adjustable block t¹ in
a groove (as shown in Figs. 14 and 15) in the inner face of the arm T of the
forked end of lever T', such block being pivoted at t (Fig. 15) near one end and
being adjustable by means of the set screw t provided with the jam nut to, for the
purpose of regulating the extent of throw of the outer end of such lever which
operates the feed foot g, and thereby shortening or lengthening the stitch.
Adjustable devices similar to those just described are preferably introduced in
the forked ends of the other levers of the machine for the purposes of taking up
the wear of such parts.
It will be readily apparent that while we have described our machine with the
automatic regulating mechanism in combination therewith, in all cases where a
machine is required for operating upon stock of a regular thickness throughout,
such regulating mechanism could be dispensed with.
What we claim is as follows:-
1. In a machine for uniting the soles and uppers of boots and shoes, having a
work-support and means for holding the work in place, a loop-inserter substantially
as described and a combined awl and nail-driver arranged to work actually or
approximately at right angles to each other, means for imparting reciprocating
movement to same, and the means for placing in the path of said nail-driver, wire
locking pieces, for the purpose set forth.
2. In a machine for uniting the soles and uppers of boots and shoes, having a
work-support, and means for holding the work in place, a loop-inserter substantially
as described, and a combined awl and nail-driver, the one adapted to force a con-
tinuous thread in loops into the substance to be united and the other to puncture
one of such substances and drive short pieces of locking material into the same, and
means for inserting the combined awl and nail-driver twice into one of such
substances to form a single locking-toggle, as set forth.
3. In a machine for uniting the soles and uppers of boots and shoes, having a
work-support and means for holding the work in place, a loop-inserter substantially
as described, and a combined awl and nail-driver, and the means for inserting the
former once into a limited distance into the substances to be united and driving
the latter forward twice for different distances, for the purpose described.
4. In a machine for uniting the soles and uppers of boots and shoes, having a
work support, and means for holding the work in place, the combination, with a
loop-inserter substantially as described, and a combined awl and nail-driver,
arranged to work approximately at right angles to each other, and means of
imparting reciprocating movement to the same, of means for varying the extent of
movement of said loop-inserter and the angle at which said awl works, for the
purpose described.
5. In a machine for uniting the soles and uppers of boots and shoes, having a
work-support, and means for holding the work in place, a loop-inserter substantially
as described and a combined awl and uail-driver, arranged and operating in such
relation to the work-support that the former will force a continuous thread in loops
entirely through one or more of the pieces being united together and partially

page_text: through the remaining pieces, and the nail-driver drive inward from the edge of
the latter piece, short locking pieces within the loops of the continuous thread, for
the purpose described.
6. In a machine for uniting the soles and uppers of boots and shoes, having a
work-support, means for holding the work in place, and a combined awl and nail-
driver, with means for imparting reciprocating motion thereto, a loop-inserter
substantially as described located within and adapted to work in and project
through said work-support, and means for imparting a reciprocating motion thereto,
as and for the purpose described.
7. In a machine for uniting the soles and uppers of boots and shoes, having a
swinging work-supporting horn, and a loop-inserter substantially as described,
carried by and working in and through the nose of same, the combination, with
|such loop-inserter, of means for holding it laterally in position during its vertical
movement.
8. In a machine for uniting the soles and uppers of boots and shoes having a
work-supporting horn, and a loop-inserter substantially as described, carried by
and working in and through the nose of same, the combination with such loop-
inserter, of a disk carried in the nose of such horn, having a slot corresponding to
the shape in cross-section of such loop-inserter, which works through it, and means
for preventing any movement of such disk with the horn, for the purpose described.
9. In a machine for uniting the soles and uppers of boots and shoes, having a
reciprocating loop-inserter substantially as described, and a combined awl and nail-
driver working approximately at right angles to each other, a hinged carrier for
such awl with depressers and a yielding support adapted to vary the angle between
such loop-inserter and awl, for the purpose described.
10. In a machine for uniting the soles and uppers of boots and shoes, the com-
bination of a loop-inserter substantially as described, and a combined awl and
nail-driver working approximately at right angles to each other, a work-support,
presser-foot bar, and means for supporting, connecting and operating the same, for
the purpose described.
11. In a machine for uniting the soles and uppers of boots and shoes, the com-
bination of a loop-inserter substantially as described, and a combined awl aud
nail-driver working approximately at right angles to each other, a work-support, a
presser-foot bar, adapted to be depressed to varying positions and set therein,
means for supporting, connecting, and operating the same, and means for effecting
varying depression and setting of the presser-foot bar, for the purpose described.
12. In a machine for uniting the soles and uppers of boots and shoes, the
combination of a loop-inserter substantially as described, and a combined awl and
nail driver, a swinging work-supporting horn carrying such loop-inserter, a
presser-foot bar in line with same, a carrier for the awl, and means for supporting,
connecting, and operating the whole for the purpose described.
13. In a machine for uniting the soles and uppers of boots and shoes, the
combination of a loop-inserter, substantially as described, and a combined awl and
nail-driver, working approximately at right angles to each other, a swinging work-
supporting horn carrying such loop-inserter, a presser-foot bar adapted to be located
in various working positions in line with loop-inserter in horn, a carrier for the awl
capable of varying the angle between the loop-inserter and awl, and means for
operating same and a presser-foot and of varying their working relation to each
other, for the purpose described.
14. The combination of horn B, having guides C2 loop-inserter C, cross-head C³,
geared segment pivoted to horn, connecting rods D2, D3, bell-crank levers D, E
and means for operating the latter all substantially as shown and described for the
purposes set forth.
15. The combination with horn B, loop-inserter C, carried by and working in
and through the nose of same, and disk & through which said loop-inserter works,
of disk & intermeshing with disk b', and mechanism whereby upon the oscillation of
the horn the disk is rotated and serves by such location to prevent any movement

page_text: of the disk with said horn all substantially as shown and described, for the
purposes set forth.
16. The combination of top plate a' slide F, hinged carrier G G¹, pivoted to
same, and
means for adjusting such slide all substantially as shown and
described.
17. The combination of top plate a¹, slide F, hinged carrier G G¹, pivoted to
same, pusher G means for supporting and operating such pusher, and means for
depressing such carrier, as shown and for the purposes described.
18. The combination, with hinged slotted carrier section G, of combined awl and
nail-driver H, cross-head H¹ for carrying the same, bell-crank lever P2, link P
and cam P, for the purpose described.
19. The combination of carrier-section G, having channel ³, combined awl and
nail-driver H, slide J, having aperture j, lever S¹ and cam S, for giving a
reciprocating movement to such slide, disks K K spring holder, spindle,
ratchet K, and means for rotating such ratchet, and as herein set forth and for the
purposes described.
20. The combination with the presser-foot bar, the loop-inserter, wedge-piece M,
slide M¹ having teethed rack at one end of same, and spring m¹ arranged externally
of such slide for operating the same, of the sliding bar D', screw M', connections
between same and loop-inserter, and connections comprising pinion M', shaft M
pinion M, rack slide M and gear-teeth m⁰ on screw M7 between said slide M¹
and such screw M7 for rotating the latter, all substantially as shown and described
and for the purpose set forth.
21. The combination with the head-section A', slide M³ having projection m³,
means for holding such slide in place, and cam W of adjustable pin m³ and spring m',
as herein set forth, and for the purposes described.
22. The combination with the awl carrier G and presser-foot bar L, having a
bracket, of adjusting screw L' and jam nut as herein set forth, and for the
purpose described.
23. The combination with the pedestal A and shaft N³ of cam-roller P, spindle P¹,
carried in suitable bearings, bell-crank lever P, roller P, cross-head H₁, combined
awl and nail-driver H, and link Pe between said cross-head and said lever P2 as
herein set forth, and for the purpose described.
24. The combination of shaft N³, cams T and , carrier section G, slide J,
lever T', pivoted to such carrier section, flat spring a having spring-bolt ² and
pin t, ratchet K, disks K K', and combined awl and nail-driver H, all as herein
set forth, and for the purposes described.
25. In a machine for uniting the soles and uppers of boots and shoes, having a
work support, means for holding the work in place, and stitch forming implements
with their carrying parts, a separate feed foot having a four-way movement
independently of any movement of said carrying parts and means of imparting such
movement to same.
26. In a machine for uniting the soles and uppers of boots and shoes, having a
work-support, means for holding the work in place, a loop inserter, and a combined
awl and nail driver, the combination therewith of a carrier for such combined
awl and nail-driver which is stationary during the feeding of the stock, and a
feed foot having a four-way movement, and means for imparting such movement
to same.
27. The combination of a carrier G, feed foot g* having a four way movement
independently of same, and the cam-lever and sliding bar mechanism for imparting
such movement to said feed foot.
28. The combination of carrier G, feed foot 93, cams R and T, levers R and T
and sliding bar R2 for the purpose set forth.
29. In combination with the carrier for the combined awl and nail-driver, and
the stationary framing of the machine at the rear of such carrier, of an adjusting bolt
projecting through such framing, and connected with such carrier to move same
forward or backward for the purpose set forth.

page_text: 30. In combination with the carrier for the combined awl and nail-driver, and
the stationary framing of the machine at the rear of such carrier, the adjusting.
bolt F, projecting through such framing rotatable therein but held against
longitudinal movement and connected with such carrier substantially as described,
and for the purposes set forth.
31. The combination with the stationary framing of the machine and carrier
sections G G', of slide F and adjusting bolt F' for the purpose set forth.
32. The combination with the stationary framing of the machine and carrier
sections G G of adjustable slide F and set screw Fs for the purpose set forth.
33. The loop-inserter having a perforated base and an inserting portion proper
projecting up from same.
34. The loop-inserter having a perforated base and a grooved inserting portion.
proper projecting up from the same.
35. The loop-inserter having a perforated base, and an inserting portion proper
oval in cross section and projecting up from same.
36. The loop-inserter having a perforated base an inserting portion proper oval
in cross section grooved and projecting up from same.
37. The loop-inserter having a perforated base and an inserting portion proper
projecting up from same, and one of the sides of which is in line with the perforation
in the base.
38. The loop-inserter with circular base, inserting portion proper, and an opening
through such base for the purpose set forth.
39. The loop inserter with circular base having an opening through same and
inserting portion proper arranged eccentrically of such base for the purpose set
forth.
40. The loop-inserter with circular base having central perforation and
inserting portion proper arranged eccentrically of such base for the purpose
set forth.
41. The loop-inserter with the circular base having an upwardly projecting.loop.
inserting portion proper and a laterally projecting annular flange for the purpose
set forth.
42. The loop-inserter with circular base having a central opening an upwardly
projecting loop inserting portion proper and a laterally projecting annular flange
for the purpose set forth.
43. The loop-inserter with circular base having a central opening, a laterally
projecting annular flange and an upwardly projecting loop-inserting portion proper
arranged eccentrically of such base.
44. The loop-inserter with inserting portion of oblong form, oval in cross.
section, grooved and having a circular base with central perforation, and pro-
jecting annular flange, and such inserting portion arranged eccentrically of said
circular base.
45. The loop-inserter having an inserting portion proper of oblong form, oval in
cross section and grooved for the purpose set forth.
46. The moveable carrier or cross-head for the loop-inserter having a wall
extending partially around its top surface and such wall grooved on its inner side
to accommodate the flange of the loop-inserter as set forth.
47. The combination of the moveable carrier or cross-head for the loop-inserter,.
baving a wall extending partially around its top surface and such wall grooved on
its inner side, of the loop-inserter having a laterally projecting flange on its base
freely fitting such grooves, with means for preventing any lateral displacement of
such loop-inserter when in place.
48. The combination of the moveable carrier or cross-head, for the loop-inserter
having a wall extending partially around its top surface and such wall grooved
on its inner side of the loop-inserter having a laterally projecting flange on its base
freely fitting such groove, and a pin extending across the opening left in such wall
for the purpose set forth.

page_text: 49. The combination with the moveable carrier or cross-head for the loop-
inserter, having a top supporting surface and wall extending partially around
same, the inner side of such wall having a horizontal groove therein, and a section
of such groove presenting substantially the arc of a circle, of the loop-inserter
resting on such supporting surface and having a laterally projecting annular flauge
corresponding with and freely fitting such groove and a retaining pin extending
across the opening left in such wall, for the purpose set forth.
50. The moveable carrier or cross-head, for the loop-inserter, having recess d
in its front side to receive the oscillating terminal part of the operating devices for
such cross-head.
51. The combination of the horn having vertical guides, of the moveable carrier
or cross-head, for the loop-inserter having ribs to fit such guides, and a recess d³
in its front side, and the oscillating terminal part of the operating devices for such
cross-head entering such recess.
52. In combination with the nose of the horn adjustable guides or ways for the
moveable cross-head of the loop-inserter with means for adjusting same.
53. In combination with the nose of the horn, adjustable guides C' fitting
recesses on the inner sides thereof and adjusting screws c passing through the
sides of the horn and bearing against such guides as and for the purpose
set forth.
54. The combination with the adjusting mechanism for the presser foot and loop-
inserter of the rack slide Ms suitably supported, pinion M on shaft M³, and
teeth 10 on screw M7 for the purpose set forth.
55. The segment d¹ hollowed on its upper surface to form a bearing for the
upper end of shaft 66.
56. In combination with the presser-foot bar L and a fixed part of bearing, of
an adjustable screw of fine pitch for regulating the adjustment of the presser-foot
bar as to its working length and a second screw of greater pitch having the extent
of its movement set and adapted by its rotation in opposite directions to raise or
lower said presser-foot a uniform distance.
57. The combination with the presser-foot bar L and slide L2 carried thereby,
of the male adjusting screw I connected with such slide and female screw Lº, in
which such male screw is threaded, the female screw working through the upper
portion of the bar L, for the purpose set forth.
58. The combination with the presser-foot bar L and slide L² carried thereby,
of male adjusting screw L' connected with such slide and female screw Lin
which such male screw is threaded, the female screw working through the
upper portion of the bar L, and the respective lock nuts 2 13 for the purpose
set forth.
59. The combination with the presser foot bar L, and slide L' carried thereby,
of male adjusting screw L' connected with such slide, female screw L" in which
such male screw is threaded, the female screw working through the upper
portion of the bar L, and handle i adjustably secured upon said female screw,
as set forth.
60. The combination with the presser foot bar L and slide L' carried thereby,
of male adjusting screw L³ connected with such slide, female screw L in which
such male screw is threaded, the female screw working through the upper portion
of the bar L, handle and jam nuts 1, 1, 1, 1 for the purpose set forth.
61. The combination of carrier G, shaft N³, cam having downward pro-
jection, lever g³, suitable pivoted combined rack and wedge slide y', 9 suitable
supported pusher G, shaft M pinion g" as and for the purpose set forth.
62. The combination of carrier G, a flexible pusher beneath same, and means
for supporting and operating said pusher for the purpose set forth.
63. The combination with the adjustable carrier for the combined awl and nail-
driver of a positive and invariable lift mechanism for same, and intermediate
regulating mechanism for the purpose set forth.

page_text: 64. The combination with the adjustable carrier, for the combined awl and nail-
driver, of lifting mechanism for same, an intermediate regulating mechanism in
the form of a moveable wedge piece, and means for operating same.
65. The combination of the machine head, the presser-foot bar L, slide L³,
having opening 1, lever 1 wedge piece M wedge piece g', intermediate operating
connections between both wedge pieces, pusher G, carrier G, lifting lever g
bearing beneath said wedge piece 9 and means for operating such lever.
66. The combination of the machine head, the presser foot bar L, slide L³,
having opening 1, lever L³ wedge piece M, slide M¹, spring m¹, localizing pin m³
rack M³ on said slide, pinion M, shaft M, pinion q, toothed slide 9, and wedge
piece g' suitable supported pusher Gawl carrier & and means for elevating said
wedge piece 9 and through it and said pusher, the awl carrier all combined and
operating substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
Dated the 11th day of April 1895.
G. F. REDFERN & Co.,
4, South Street, Finsbury, London, Agents for the Applicants.