IMPROVEMENTS IN AND RELATING TO APPARATUS FOR RUFFLING PLAITING OR SIMILAR PURPOSES AND DESIGNED TO SERVE AS AN ATTACHMENT TO A SEWING MACHINE
Year: 1882

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Robert Lake, of the firm of Haseltine, Lake,
and Co., Patent Agents, Southampton Buildings, London, for an invention
of "IMPROVEMENTS IN AND RELATING TO APPARATUS FOR RUFFLING PLAITING
OR SIMILAR PURPOSES AND DESIGNED TO SERVE AS AN ATTACHMENT TO A
SEWING MACHINE"-A communication from abroad by Edwin Joseph Toof, of
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Robert Lake at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 11th March 1882.
WILLIAM ROBERT LAKE, of the firm of Haseltine, Lake, & Co Patent Agents
Southampton Buildings London "IMPROVEMENTS IN AND RELATING TO APPARATUS
FOR RUFFLING PLAITING OR SIMILAR PURPOSES AND DESIGNED TO SERVE AS AN
"
ATTACHMENT TO A SEWING MACHINE [A communication from abroad by Edwin
Joseph Toof, of New Haven, Connecticut, United States of America, Manufacturer.]
This invention relates to an improved attachment for sewing machines, the object
of which is to enable the machine to shirr, ruffle, or plait a fabric and the said
invention consists in the construction of the attachment as hereinafter described,
and in the method of attaching the ruffler to the machine.
In carrying the said invention into practice I provide a base or principal plate
to which the mechanism is attached. From this plate an arm extends, having a
downwardly projecting stud formed by a depression in the plate or otherwise, and
corresponding to a seat in the presser-foot. Forward of this projection is a similar
downward projection and in the presser foot is a corresponding recess. A recess in
the leg of the presser foot at its junction with the presser foot is provided so that
the attachment may be applied by simply introducing the first named projection
into its seat then turning the attachment into the said recess in the leg of the
presser foot, and bringing the second projection into the recess provided for it, the
elasticity of the arm allowing of this movement.

page_text: On the said base plate is a slide arranged for free longitudinal movement which
is imparted to it through a curved lever hung upon an upright which extends up
from the base plate on this upright is another slide or sleeve having two horns
between which a stud or projection from the needle bar works so that in its ascent
is raises the said slide or sleeve and in its descent it throws the said slide or sleeve
downward. The aforesaid curved lever stands within the said sleeve so that as
the sleeve ascends, it strikes the upper arm of the lever throwing the lower arm
forward, and in its descent it throws the lower arm backward, which imparts a
reciprocating movement to another slide.
The last named slide carries a crimping blade which is elastic, and works over a
thin plate which plate lies upon the work-table with a yielding pressure. The
fabric to be shirred or ruffled is introduced between the blade and the plate and is
held between the plate and the presser so that the blade works toward the presser
and will shirr the fabric in the space between the two at each movement of the
needle arm, the shirr being according to the distance between the two, and when
the shirr is made it is forced beneath the presser where it is taken by the needle
in its descent.
The blade is made adjustable so as to vary the extent of the shirr by means of a
set screw which adjusts the bearing points between which the lower end of the
arm or curved lever works.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed
by the said William Robert Lake in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
11th September 1882.
WILLIAM ROBERT LAKE, of the firm of Haseltine, Lake, and Co., Patent Agents,
Southampton Buildings, London. "IMPROVEMENTS IN AND RELATING TO APPARATUS
FOR RUFFLING, PLAITING, OR SIMILAR PURPOSES, AND DESIGNED TO SERVE AS AN
ATTACHMENT TO A SEWING-MACHINE,"- A communication from abroad by Edwin
Joseph Toof, of New Haven, Connecticut, United States of America, Manufacturer.
This invention relates to that class of rufflers adapted to be held and supported
upon a sewing-machine above the cloth-plate thereof and operated by the needle-
bar, and capable of being detached therefrom. The object of one part of this
invention is to provide a ruffler, simple and compact in form, embodying all of the
essential features necessary for the purposes required in the formation of gathers
and rufflers.
Another part of this invention consists essentially in combining with a ruffling
or gathering attachment for sewing machines, a hinged separator plate, adapted to
be thrown or removed out of position, when not required to separate a plain strip
from the strip to be ruffled so that shirring may be done with the said attachment;
the said invention consists further, in the combination with the said ruffler, of a
piece for covering the feed bar when shirring.
In the accompanying drawing. Figure 1 is a perspective side elevation of a
ruffler constructed according to this invention.
Figure 2 is a plan of the same.
Figure 3, is a perspective view of a presser foot to which the said ruffler is
attached,
Figure 4, shows a modification of the sliding sleeve with the adjusting device
attached thereto, for regulating the throw of the gathering blade,
Figure 5, is a side elevation of a ruffling or gathering attachment,
Figure 6, represents a gathering attachment, with a plate for covering the feed
bar of the sewing machine.
Figure 7, is a perspective view of the same,
A represents a presser-foot of a sewing machine, B a post standing in a vertical
position when attached to the machine for operation. And C the main frame for
supporting the several operative parts of the attachment. To this frame is attached
a flexible spring-blade D termed the gatherer, for forming the fold or plaits, a bent
vertically arranged lever E is held to the side of the post B, by a pin or pivot,
and by a sliding sleeve, F, which sliding sleeve is arranged to be reciprocated
vertically, through the instrumentality of the set-screw which fastens the needle,
with which the needle bar is provided, and which moves within the space G with
which the sleeve F is provided; by the action of the said sleeve, the gathering
blade D is reciprocated, through the medium of the crooked lever E, which is
connected with the carrier C', to which the said spring-blade or gatherer is secured,
and by which it is carried. An adjustable flange H¹ serves as a stop, adapted to be
held in any position desired for adjusting the length of the throw or movement of
the gathering blade. to and from the needle, this adjustment is accomplished by
means of a thumb-nut or screw I and the sliding flanged piece H'. The nut I is
held in position by, and operated through, the end or ear-piece J formed upon the
horizontal plate c". The sliding flanged piece H is provided with an overhanging
lip H, shown in Figures 1 and 2, its opposite end is provided with a threaded
screw passing through the said thumb-nut, by means of which the flanged
piece is moved to and fro, in such a manner, as to increase or diminish,

page_text: the space formed by it, within which the end of the bent lever E operates, and
by which the action of the ruffling blade is controlled so as to vary the width or
fulness of the ruffle or gather, by the proper movement of the thumb-nut, either
to the right or left, as required. This attachment is also provided with what
I term a supplementary presser against and beneath which the ruffling blade
operates in the formation of ruffles and gathers. The presser referred to, is secured
to, and held in position upon a crooked piece of metal, forming a bow or bridge
attached the frame C, extending rearward to a point distant say one and a quarter
inches, more or less from the needle, to a bend or curve formed therein, as shown
in Figures, 1 and 2 and returning to a point in close proximity to the front of the
needle where the ruffles and gathers are formed, in readiness to receive the stitches
for securing the plaits or gathers in proper position. This supplementary presser,
is provided with a ridge D¹ upon its lower or under side, and with a lip D¹¹ pro-
jecting therefrom toward the needle and gathering blade, as shown in Figure 2.
The said presser is also provided with plate K arranged beneath the gatherer, and
serving as a means for separating the strip to be ruffled from the band, whenever
desirable to be so used. The plate K is secured to the lower end of the bow or
bridge-piece before referred to. For compactness, I sometimes apply the means
for adjusting the movement of the gathering blade, to the upper end of the
actuating lever instead of to the lower, as first explained. The device for this
purpose is shown in Figure 4 of the drawing, it consists of a piece of metal M
pivoted at N and provided with a flange or lip O, extending across the path of the
actuating lever E; by means of an adjusting screw R operating through a
slot the position of the lip O is determined and the said lip is held. The result of
this modification is, that the attachment is simplified and the dimensions reduced.
The general operation of this class of attachment is so well understood that further
explanation is deemed unnecessary
According to another part of this invention a supplementary spring presser P
rests against and acts beneath the toe of the presser proper by which the attach-
ment is held; a separator plate R is hinged to the frame at R', which when to be
used as a means for separating the strip to form the ruffle, or to gather from the
band or strip upon which the gather is to be stitched, it will rest in the position
shown in the drawing, but when not in use for the purpose indicated, or when
the attachment is to be used for shirring fabrics, where more space is required on
both sides of the needle for their manipulation, the separator may be thrown or
swung back out of position, as shown at R in dotted lines the entire space
beneath the arm of the sewing machine is then free for the manipulation of the
material operated upon, thus enabling the operator to shirr fabrics, at any desired
distance from the edge which the space between the arm post and needle will
permit. This separator plate is substantially the same as those in general use as
regards its form, and its relative position to the feed bar of the machine and the
gathering blade which acts thereon; but when used in combination with these parts
it differs in manner of connection and mode of operation, from the fact that it is
adapted to be thrown out of position, when desired. I use a guard or plate, over
the feed bar of the machine while shirring after the separator R has been moved
out of position, for the purpose of protecting the gathering blade from the
roughened surface of the feed-bar, which is shown in Figures, 6 and 7, at S,
and adapted to be held upon the cloth plate of the sewing machine by screws, or
other suitable means, ordinarily adopted for holding the usual attachments
thereon.
Having thus fully described the said invention as communicated to me by
my foreign correspondent, and the manner of performing the same I wish it
understood that I Claim ;-
First. In a ruffling attachment for sewing machines, the combination with a
supporting frame and gathering blade, of a bent lever, and a sleeve adapted to
operate vertically upon the stationary post, and embracing the said post and lever,
substantially as, and for the purpose set forth.

page_text: Second, In a ruffling attachment for sewing machines, the combination with a
supporting frame, gathering blade vertical post and bent lever, constructed,
arranged, and operating, substantially as specified, of an adjusting device for
varying the fulness or width of gathers or ruffles, consisting of a sliding flanged
piece or bar, operated by a thumb-screw or nut, substantially as and for the purpose
set forth.
Third, In a ruffling attachment for sewing machines, the combination with a
gathering blade, supporting frame, post, and lever, substantially as described, of a
sleeve embracing the said post and lever and provided with an opening or space
within which the set-screw or the needle-bar operates, to impart motion to the
gathering blade, substantially as, and for the purpose set forth.
Fourth. In a ruffling attachment for sewing machines, the combination of a
supporting frame for attaching it thereto a vertical post, a vertically arranged bent
lever, a sliding sleeve embracing the said post and lever, adjusting mechanism for
regulating the widths of gathers, and the supplementary foot against which the
gathering blade acts, all arranged and operating as set forth.
Fifth. A ruffler, consisting of a supporting frame, and upright post, a bent lever,
and adjusting mechanism, a supplementary presser, and separating plate, all
constructed, arranged, and operating, substantially as specified.
Sixth. The combination with the presser foot of a sewing machine, of a ruffler,
adapted to be held thereon, and detached thereon by means of a slot and deflections,
with which the said ruffler and foot are provided, whereby other means for securing
the parts together are unnecessary, substantially as set forth.
Seventh. The combination, with a ruffling and shirring attachment for sewing
machines, of a separator plate secured thereto in such a manner, as to admit of
being removed out of position when desired, substantially as and for the purposes
set forth.
Eighth. The combination, with a ruffling and shirring attachment for sewing
machines, of a separator plate, pivoted to the frame thereof, substantially as, and
for the purpose set forth.
Ninth. The combination, with a ruffling and shirring attachment for sewing
machines adapted to be held above the cloth plate thereof, of a guard plate for
covering the feed-bar detachably held upon the cloth plate, substantially as, and for
the purpose set forth.
In witness whereof I the said William Robert Lake have hereunto set my
hand and seal this Ninth day of September in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and eighty two.