Improvements in or relating to Sewing Machines.
Year: 1895

page_text: Date of Application, 1st June, 1895
Complete Specification Left, 16th Sept., 1895-Accepted, 9th Nov., 1895
Improvements in or relating to Sewing Machines.
We, FREDERICK CHARLES WOOLER JANES, and WILLIAM WOOLER JANES,
both of High Town Road, Luton, Bedfordshire, Engineers, do hereby declare the
nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to certain improvements in or addition to those machines
usually employed in sewing or stitching lengths of straw or like plait or braid for
the making of hats and bonnets.
The objects are :—
1. To obtain such a movement of the presser that it will accommodate itself to
suit various thicknesses of work.
2. To give the looper a motion different from the existing one for clearing it
from the presser necessitated by the increased movement imparted to the presser,
said looper being behind the needle instead of in front.
3. To give the threader a motion from the back of the needle instead of from
the front.
4. To arrange the eyed needle and the barb needle with the looper groove
and the barb respectively in position directly opposite to those in existing
machines.
5. To effect the operation of both looper and threader from a single cam.
6. To enable existing machines to be utilized for making all classes of work
instead of being limited to defined classes.
To carry our invention into practice, we use the back cam on the main shaft
only, and by a lever pivoted below to the frame and operated by the usual back
cam, we by a ball socket joint give an oscillatory circular motion by a link to the
upper shaft, the front of which has the looper affixed, the looper point of which is
behind the needles.
The upper shaft has a collar affixed and a leg in connection with a knuckle
joint and a rock lever depending from a head pivot gives the oscillatory forward
and backward travel to the threader from behind the needles.
The arm is hinged as usual but is given increased play to accommodate itself for
different thicknesses of work.
The presser lever is arranged transversely under the arm, and said arm is
provided with a stud for bearing against the underside of a lever by which the
looper and threader are carried, said lever being partly within side cheeks of a
box affixed to the frame in such manner that the first movement of the presser
has no action on the looper and threader carrying lever, except when the looper
and threader have to be lifted clear of the needles, such as when introducing or
removing the work.
Dated this 1st day of June 1895.
H. GARDNER,
Patent Agent, 166 Fleet Street, London,
Agent for the said Frederick Charles Wooler Janes and
William Wooler Janes.

page_text: Improvements in or relating to Sewing Machines.
We, FREDERICK CHARLES WOOLER JANES, and WILLIAM WOOLER JANES,
both of High Town Road, Luton, Bedfordshire, Engineers, do hereby declare the
nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This invention relates to certain improvements in or additions to those machines
usually employed in sewing or stitching lengths of straw or like plait or braid for
the making of hats and bonnets.
The objects are:-
1. To obtain such a movement of the presser that it will accommodate itself
to suit various thicknesses of work.
2. To give the looper a motion different from the existing one for clearing it
from the presser necessitated by the increased movement imparted to the presser,
said looper being behind the needle instead of in front.
3. To give the threader a motion from the back of the needle instead of from
the front.
4. To arrange the eyed needle and the barb needle with the looper groove
and the barb respectively in position directly opposite to those in existing
machines.
5. To effect the operation of both looper and threader from a single cam.
6. To enable existing machines to be utilised for making all classes of work
instead of being limited to defined classes.
To carry our invention into practice, we use the back cam on the main shaft
only, and by a lever pivoted below to the frame and operated by the usual back
cam, we by a ball socket joint give an oscillatory circular motion by a link to the
upper shaft, the front of which has the looper affixed, the looping point of which is
behind the needles.
The upper shaft has a collar affixed and a leg connection with a knuckle joint
to a rock lever depending from a head pivot gives the oscillatory forward and
backward travel to the threader from behind the needles.
The arm is hinged as usual but is given increased play to accommodate itself for
different thicknesses of work.
The presser lever is arranged transversely under the arm, and said arm is
provided with a stud for bearing against the underside of a lever by which
the looper and threader are carried, said lever being partly within side cheeks
of a box affixed to the frame in such manner that the first movement of the
presser has no action on the looper and threader carrying lever except when the
looper and the threader have to be lifted clear of the needles, such as when
introducing or removing the work.
Our invention is clearly represented in the annexed drawings.
Figure 1 is a side elevation of a machine, and Figure 2 a front end elevation.
Figure 3 represents an elevation of one of our new parts detached.
Figure 4 plan of same.
Figure 5 shows the presser lifting appliances detached, part being in section.
The machine to which our invention is applied and as represented in the drawings
is known as Wiseman's.
A is the base. B the back upright carrying the limb C pivoted to it in a
manner well known, the front end of said limb or arm having the usual presser D
affixed. E is the main shaft operable by the hand or band wheel F, and as part of
H is a kind of
our invention carries a single cam G only of the usual formation.
box secured to the back of the front head I by a bolt or stud J, Figure 1 the back
of the box at K forming a pivoting eye for supporting a plate L by which the

page_text: upper or rock shaft M is carried said plate being between the two side cheeks of
the box H as guides for the up and down movements of the plate L when the
work is being placed in the machine, or being removed from it, said lift and drop
action being controlled by the hand lever N.
The upper or rock shaft M passes fore and aft through the plate L, its back
end has secured to it a short rod P having a ball Q, this having a free movement
in a plate R suspended from it but jointed to the upper end of the lever S which is
operated by the single cam G.
The front end of the rock shaft M carries the looper a which traverses across
the needles bb, but by our invention at the rear of them the barb of the threader
needle being inwardly set.
The rock shaft M has near the front end a crank c the pin of which engaging
in a long boss d, this having an upright socket plate e enclosing the ball end of a
lever g fixed to a cross shaft for giving a forward and rearward movement to the
threader which is fixed to the cross shaft h.
The band or presser lever N according to our invention has an extended nose T
Figure 5, and when the limb C is lifted by the movement of the lever N, say
from a toy as at Figure 5 it does not operate upon the plate L and consequently
does not interfere with the looper a and threader i, but when the lever N is lifted
beyond the position marked y, say to in Figure 5 it gives a slanting backward
lift to the looper a and threader i clear of the needles bb the groove of one and the
barb of the other being set reverse to the usual positions and such as we show at
Figure 3 and also obviously continues the lift of the limb C and presser D thereby
giving greater facility for inserting the plait or braid into the machine, so that
the thickest possible work can be inserted between the presser and the work plate U,
Figure 1 the limb C being returnable under the action of a spring, not shown in
the drawing, in the usual manner for pressing on the work, and the plate L
returning automatically to its proper working position by the action of a spring V,
the extent however of the movement of the presser D by the hand lever № is
beyond, if fully acted upon, the range of any thickness of work that the machine
could sew, consequently the presser can be raised clear of and above the needles
points in order that the machine does not require to be stopped when the position
of the work has to be shifted, or the work withdrawn from the machine, the eye
needle simply taking the same loop of thread up and down without the looper or
threader having any action upon it.
To enable this extra motion to be imparted, the nose of the lever N bears
against the underside of the arm C which by its pin W comes to bear against the
under side of the plate L and this lifts the plate L, and with it the looper a and
threader i clear of the needles b, b, as indicated by the dotted lines in Figure 1,
the ball joint Q, R, permitting this to be done and while the machine is still
running.
This system of constructing and operating has the advantage of permitting the
front shutter X being extended as shown from Y to Z at Figure 1, so that any
width of material can be sewn by the machine instead of being limited as with the
existing machines, the extension forming a kind of box from under and up which
the work can be kept flat and be guided, assisted by the guide ; which can be set
by the pinch screwk in the leg 1 of the guide plate m which is also adjustable by
the pinion and rack n, p, when the turn button is acted upon in the desired direction,
said rack and guide plate being fixable at any part of the slot by the tightening
screw 9.
We have not shown the needle operating, or the feed mechanism, they being the
same as in the Wiseman Patent, No. 2485 of the year 1878.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of this inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what we
claim is :-
1. The several detail improvements or changes of position or arrangement of

page_text: the operating parts of a Wiseman machine, as herein before set forth and substantially
as represented in the annexed drawings.
2. The lever N and its adjacent appliances for acting on and governing presser D
for varying thickness of work as set forth and substantially as represented by
the drawings.
3. Arranging the looper and the threader of a Wiseman machine at the rear of
the needles, as and for the purposes described for operation from or by the
mechanism represented in the annexed drawings.
4. The means or appliances by which from a single cam on the main shaft, the
simultaneous traverse and forward movements of the looper and the threader
respectively are performed as described and substantially as indicated by the
annexed drawings.
5. The construction and employment of a plate L, hinge jointed at K, and
carrying the rock shaft M by or from which through a single cam G the combined
and simultaneous actions of the looper a and the threader i are effected, and to
which plate L and parts connected with it a greater or extra rise can be given by
the same hand lever N which adjusts the presser D in order that the points
of the looper and threader can be lifted clear of the. needles for the purpose
described.
The 16th day of September 1895
H. GARDNER,
Patent Agent, 166 Fleet Street, London,
Agent for the said Frederick Charles Wooler Janes and
William Wooler Janes.