IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND. SHOES
Year: 1861

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Westley, of Northampton, Boot Maker,
for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND.
SHOES."
Sealed the 19th July 1861, and dated the 23rd January 1861.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Westley at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
23rd January 1861.
I, WILLIAM WESTLEY, of Northampton, Boot Maker, do hereby declare the
nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS
AND SHOES," to be as follows, that is to say:-
My Invention consists, first, in attaching the heels of boots and shoes; and,
secondly, in the construction of the "waists" of the same.
In the first-mentioned mode of attaching the heels to the soles, I form the
heels, which I prefer to construct of wood, with a kind of dovetailed fillet or
groove round the upper surface. I then form that part of the sole which the
heel is intended to cover with a similar groove or dovetailed fillet, the edges
incliningintheopposite direction, which fitsintothecorresponding groove made
in the wooden heel; the heel is then slipped on and secured by a screw pin
or peg, and the heel is complete, presenting or having the same appearance
as one made of leather in the usual way.
In constructing the waists of boots and shoes, which usually requires supe-
上

page_text: rior leather on account of the spring necessary, I make them of refuse leather
of any kind, by introducing one or more steel springs within the pieces forming
the waist, and by compressing it by hydraulic or other suitable means into the
requisite shape.
I also form "lifts" of leather for the purpose of forming heels, by taking a
piece of leather about 6 inches long and 1 inch wide, and force it into a mould
in the form of the heel of the boot, the leather being thoroughly saturated with
water, which causes it to take more easily the form of the mould. The leather
is forced into the mould by hydraulic or other power.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said John William Westley in the Great Seal Patent Office on
the 23rd July 1861.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, WILLIAM
WESTLEY, of Northampton, Boot Maker, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-third day of January, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-one, in the twenty-fourth year of
Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto
me, the said William Westley, Her special licence that I the said William
Westley, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as
I, the said William Westley, my executors, administrators, and assigns,
should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all
times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might
make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain
and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES," upon the condition
(amongst others) that I, the said William Westley, my executors or adminis-
trators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands
and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said
Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause
the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar
months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said William Westley, do hereby declare
the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement, that is to say:-

page_text: My Invention consists, first, in the method and means I adopt for attaching
the heels of boots and shoes to the soles of the same; and, secondly, in the
mode of constructing the "waists" of boots and shoes.
1
In attaching or fixing the heels to the soles I form the; heels (which I
prefer to be of wood) with a dovetailed fillet or groove round the edge of
the upper face. I then form that part of the sole which the heel is intended
to cover with a similar groove or dovetailed fillet, but so formed as to fit into
the corresponding groove or fillet of the heel. The heel is then slid or slipped
cn to the grooved portion of the sole, and secured by a screw, pin, or peg. In
this state it presents the same appearance as one made of leather, with the
advantage that a new one can be put on in a few minutes whenever required.
In constructing the "waists "of boots and shoes a superior kind of leather is
generally required, owing to the necessity for having a good spring or elasticity
in the boot at that portion. I propose to effect this with the ordinary or
inferior kinds of leather by introducing one or more thin steel springs within
the pieces forming the waist, compressing the whole well together, so as to
form it into the proper shape to suit the hollow of the foot.
When leather heels are used, I propose, in order to avoid the waste which is
caused by cutting out the heel to a somewhat circular form, to take longi-
tudinal strips of leather in length equal to the periphery of the heel to be
made, and in breadth so as to give a proper area. I take these strips and
insert them in a mould having the form of the heel, having first well
saturated them with water; in this state I subject them to continued pressure
until they take the form of the heel required.
In order more clearly to illustrate the foregoing description of my Iuven-
tion, I have appended to this Specification the accompanying Drawings,
which, however, are only intended to show the general principles of my
Invention.
DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS.
Figure 1 is an elevation of the heel shewing the grooved recess a, to slide on
to the piece b, Figure 2, fixed to the boot. The groove in this piece is formed
in a counterpart to the groove a in the heel, so as exactly to fit the recess
a, a; c is a screw let into the recess on the heel for the purpose of firmly
securing it when in its proper position. Figure 3 is a plan of same.
Figures 4, 5, 6, and 7 illustrate another mode I adont to carry out the
Figure 1 is an elevation of the heel shewing the grooved recess a, to slide on
to the piece b, Figure 2, fixed to the boot. The groove in this piece is formed
in a counterpart to the groove a in the heel, so as exactly to fit the recess
a, a; c is a screw let into the recess on the heel for the purpose of firmly
securing it when in its proper position. Figure 3 is a plan of same.
Figures 4, 5, 6, and 7 illustrate another mode I adopt to carry out the
same principle of attachment to the heel, I fasten a plate of iron, brass, or
any suitable inetal. This plate has its edge turned up, as shewn at c, and
slides into another piece d (Fig. 5), formed in the reverse way, and with a

page_text: long tongue or projection of steel in order to give elasticity to the waist of the
boot, as before mentioned, and more fully shewn in Fig. 7. Figure 6 is a
plan of this form of heel.
Figure 8 is a plan of a sole of a boot, shewing my method of introducing
and fixing steel springs in the waists of boots and shoes. These springs are
laid or placed between the inner and outer soles, and give greater ease in
walking, at the same time enabling a boot or shoe formed of inferior leather
to last as long as one made of the best materials.
Figure 9 shews a strip of leather which I form into a heel by compressing
it into the form shewn in Figure 10. I then fill up the space m with gutta
percha, wax, or such like materials.
Having now described the nature of my Invention, and how the same is
made and acts, I wish it understood that what I claim and desire secured by
the before in part recited Letters Patent is,-
First, the mode of forming the heels of boots and shoes, and the method
of combining and attaching them to the same, as here-within described, and
more particularly set forth in the accompanying Drawings, Figures 1, 2, 3.
Second, the mode of forming and attaching the heels of boots and shoes, as
shewn in Figs. 4, 5, 6, 7 of the Drawings.
Third, the mode of forming heels from strips of leather, and compressing
them into shape, as here-within described and set forth in the accompanying
Drawings.
Fourth, the mode of forming the waists of boots and shoes by combining
metallicsprings with the leather, as here-withinset forth, and more particularly
described in Figure 8 of the accompanying Drawings.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Westley, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Twenty-second day of July, inthe year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-one.
W. WESTLEY. (L.S.)