Improvements in Parallel Seams in Hat Sweat Bands, Binding Edges of Materials, and the like, and in the Means for Producing the same.
Year: 1894

page_text: Date of Application, 6th Mar., 1894
Complote Specification Left, 6.h Dec., 1894-Accepted, 2nd Mar., 1395
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Parallel Seams in Hat Sweat Bands, Binding
Edges of Materials, and the like, and in the Means for
Producing the same.
1, WILLIAM FURMAN BEARDSLEE, of York Street, Brooklyn, New York,
United States of America, Mechanical Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of
this invention to be as follows:-
My invention relates to seams composed of three threads, two of which are
carried by two eye-pointed needles situated side by side, and moving together, and
the third of which is carried by a looper situated below the cloth plate.
The object of my invention is the production of a seam of exceptional strength
that will not rip or unravel, especially adapted for use on knitted goods and similar
materials, and that may also be effectually employed in overstitching hat leathers,
binding edges of material, and the like.
This invention consists essentially of a seam comprising two parallel rows of
stitches, and which, when applied to the edges of the material has a bight of the
thread connected to the material at one row of the stitches lying across over the
top of the material, and projecting towards the edge thereof and into the line of
the second parallel row of stitches, which latter is at or near the edge of the
material, enclosing the thread from this second row of stitches within said loop of
the first thread, both of the said upper threads being passed through the material,
or one thread through the material and one thread outside of the edge of the
material, loops in both the first and second upper threads projecting below the
material, a bight of a lower third thread lying within both of said loops and then
around outside the inner one only thereof.
The distinguishing feature of my invention consists in the fact that the inter-
looped threads below the material are at one parallel row of stitches, while the
interlooped threads above the material are at the other parallel row of stitches
when both needles pass through the material as shown at the tops of Figs. 1 and 2
on the accompanying drawings:
In these drawings
Fig. 1 is a top view of a portion of a strip of material enlarged sufficiently to
permit of a diagramatic representation of the relative positions of the threads :
Fig. 2. is a view of the under side of the same.
Fig. 3 illustrates certain instrumentalities used in carrying out my invention but
I do not confine myself to the use of any particular form or construction of parts,
since it is obvious that the means employed for manipulating the thread according
to my improved method are of secondary importance, and may be varied without
departing from the spirit and intent of my invention.
The two eye pointed needles g and y' are set a short distance apart and transverse
to the line of feed, the one as indicated by g' being slightly lower than the other.
One needle g carries the thread marked 3 and the other the thread marked 2. The
form of the upper looper 6 for carrying the thread 3 from the left hand needle
over, into the path of its companion needle g' may be as shown, but any other
mechanism for effecting the result may be employed, the manipulation of the
threads, and the form and appearance of the stitch above the material not being
original in the present application but forming only a step in my improved method.

page_text: The form of the lower looper R for effecting the concatenation of the threads.
below the material is also of secondary importance provided it is adapted to
manipulate the threads below the cloth as herein described.
For the purposes of illustration I have indicated in the drawings a looper R.
This lower looper R carries the under or third thread 4 and is formed with the
point and relief or inclined surface r¹, the latter for the purpose of causing the
bight of the loop of the thread 2 to slip over to that of the loop of thread 3 under
the tension created when the needles rise. The cloth plate is represented in
section at r, c, in approximate position with relation to the operative parts, but the
cloth plate and lower looper R may be more or less separated.
The lower looper R common to sewing machines using a single needle, carries a
continuous under thread 4 making what is known as the Grover and Baker stitch.
It has an intermittent reciprocating motion in a horizontal plane, having also a
lateral motion with relation to the position of the needles. By this means it is
enabled to take the loops from the thread carrying needles and g¹ on one side of
the needles and then pass to the other side of the needles to form and present a
loop of its own thread 4 in such position that upon the next descent of the needles
one of the latter passes a loop of one of the upper threads through it, thereby
locking the stitch as a whole.
The descent of the needles carries both threads 2 and 3 through the material, and
as they start to rise again, loops are formed in both of said threads, which are
entered by the point r of the lower looper R.
As the needles g and g¹ continue to ascend, the tension upon the aforesaid loops
causes them to seek the highest part of the incline or relief formed on the under
side of the looper, thereby bringing the lower part of the loop formed in the outer
or edge thread 2 into proximity to the corresponding part of the loop formed in
the inner thread 3 under the line of stitching made by the latter, and a little beyond
the path of movement of the needle g when the looper starts to recede.
While the looper R thus starts to recede during the elevation of the needles it
also moves laterally to the front, or opposite side of the path of the needles, so that
as the needles again descend, the needle g will pass to the right of both the loops
formed in the threads 2 and 3 and will enter the loop formed in the looper thread 4
by its retractile movement. The continued retraction of the lower looper R
during the descent of the needles draws the lower thread around the needle
latter carries its thread 3 below the under thread sufficiently to admit of the
formation of a loop which one point of the looper R may enter when it again
advances; this position of the parts being again the same as at the commencement
of this description.
2°
which
In the foregoing description the needles are described as both passing through
the material, the seam produced being that which is represented in Figs. 1 and 2
above the dotted line a. a.
Where the material is fed to the machine with the edge between the needles the
same manipulation of the threads by the operative parts occurs, but the result is
somewhat different in appearance as will be seen by reference to the portions of
Figs. 1 and 2 below the dotted line a. a.
Under these conditions the left hand needle thread 3 is the only one that
appears above the goods when stitched, the portion of the right hand needle
thread 2 which forms the parallel edge stitch when both needles penetrate the
material being drawn over by the tension to the under side of the material carrying
with it and spreading out a portion of the left hand needle thread 3 and leaving
the strands 3 above close together and parallel to each other.
The result of this simple change in the manner of feeding the material to the
needle is the production in effect of a superior and safe overstitch, for binding,
stitching hat sweat bands, and the like.
The seam formed by passing both needles through the material consisting
essentially of two parallel rows of stitches, may be trimmed as indicated by the
dotted lines.ex Figs. 1 and 2 the trimming being done close to but not cutting

page_text: the threads 2 and 3, and thereafter the two pieces of material may be opened out
leaving the loops of the threads 2 and 3 extending from one to the other seam, the
thread 2 crossing from one to the other line of stitching at one side of the opened
out material, while the thread 3 is extended across on the other side of the
material, the said threads each concatenated in the line of stitching made by the
other thread, and each with the third thread 4 serving to bind and hold in place
smoothly the material between the parallel lines of stitching and making a safe
non-ripping flat seam. By superposing the material and sewing with the right
hand needle g' over the edge, substantially the same result can be obtained when
the material is opened out.
Dated this 5th day of March 1894.
THOMAS PRESCOTT,
53, Arcade Chambers, St. Mary's Gate, Manchester,
Agent for Applicant.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Parallel Seams in Hat Sweat Bands, Binding
Edges of Materials, and the like, and in the Means for
Producing the same.
1, WILLIAM FURMAN BEARDSLEE, of York Street, Brooklyn, New York,
United States of America, Mechanical Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of
this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement :—
This invention relates to seams composed of three threads, two of which are
carried by two eye-pointed needles situated side by side and moving together, and
the third of which carried by a looper situated below the cloth plate. The
improved seam is of the class known as "straight ahead" seams, that is, at each
descent of the needles stitches counting one in the line of feed are formed, and the
present seam is thus contra-distinguished from an over-stitch seam requiring
two descents of the needle to make one complete stitch in the line of the
feed; and the threads of the new seam are concatenated both above and below
the material.
Double seams concatenated on both sides of the material are not new in the
abstract. In the United States Patent No. 438,795 is set forth a seam formed of
two parallel rows of stitching concateuated above and below the material, but the
seam thus formed is unsuitable for knitted goods, hat sweats and other articles of
manufacture requiring a stitch that will not rip or unravel. Similar seams have
also been formed from three threads, producing a purl on the edge of the material,
which have, however, been unsuitable for overstitching hat leathers and binding
other articles requiring a complete overstitch.
The object of the present invention is the production of a seam which shall
be of exceptional strength, which will not rip or unravel which shall be especially
adapted for use on knitted goods, and similar material, and which may be
effectually employed in "overstitching" hat leathers, and in binding the edges of
material.
The invention consists essentially of a seam comprising two parallel rows of
stitches and which, when applied to the edges of the material, has a bight of the
thread connected to the material at one row of stitches lying across over the top of
the material and projecting towards the edge thereof and into the line of the
second parallel row of stitches which latter is at or near the edge of the material,
enclosing the thread from this second row of stitches within said loop of the first
thread, both of the said upper threads being passed through the material, or one
thread through the material and one thread outside of the edge of the material,

page_text: loops in both the said first and second upper threads projecting below the material,
a bight of a lower third thread lying within both of said loops and then around
outside the inner one, only, thereof.
The manipulation of the two upper threads above the material is substantially
the same as in United States Letters Patent No. 438,795 hereinbefore referred
to, the loops of the needles threads in the present case, however, being concatenated
below the cloth plate by means of a lower third thread manipulated by any suitable
thread carrying looping mechanism, this lower looper taking the loops from the
thread carrying needles, while by preference only the needle farthest from the
edge of the material takes the loop from the said thread carrying looper on
the downward stroke of the needle, by which method the double chain thus formed
is laid under the line of stitches farthest from the edge.
The distinguishing feature of the seam consists in the fact that while the
concatenations above the material are made around the outer or right hand upper
thread (when sewing as shown in the drawings) the concatenations below the
material are such that the lower third thread, while being looped through the loops
of both upper threads, is looped around the inner or left hand one, only, of said
upper threads, thus enabling the enchained loops below the material to be drawn
back from the edge or edges thereof, the lower or third thread uniting and locking
the two upper threads below the material on the line of stitches formed by the
inner one of the two upper threads. In other words, the interlooped threads below
the material are at one parallel row of stitches, while the interlooped threads above
the material are at the other parallel row of stitches, when both needles pass
through the material, as shown at the tops of Figures 1 and 2.
The accompanying drawings illustrate diagrammatically certain instrumentalities
used in carrying out the invention although the latter is not confined to the use
of any particular form or construction of parts, since it is obvious that the means
employed for manipulating the thread according to this improved method are of
secondary importance, and may be varied without departing from the spirit and
intent of the invention.
Figure 1 is a top view of a portion of a strip of material enlarged sufficiently
to permit of a diagrammatic representation of the relative positions of the
thr. ads.
Figure 2 is a view of the under side of the same.
Figures 3, 4 and 5 are isometrical perspectives representing arbitrarily the
positions of the upper threads with relation to the needles and upper looper in
effecting the concatenation of the upper threads.
Figure 6 is a diagrammatic representation of the instrumentalities essential in
forming my improved stitch.
Figures 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 and 12 are diagrams representing, upon an enlarged
scale, the successive features or steps in the formation of my improved stitch.
The two eye pointed needles g, y¹ are set a short distance apart and transverse
to the line of feed, one y being slightly lower than the other. One needle g,
carries the thread marked 3, and the other the thread marked 2. The upper
looper b, for carrying the thread 3 from the left hand needle y, over into the path
of its companion needle g', to effect the concatenation of the threads above the
material, may be formed and operated substantially as set forth in my United States
Letters Patent No. 438,794, or any other mechanism for effecting the result may
be employed, the manipulation of the threads and the form and appearance of the
stitch above the material not being original in the present application but forming
only a step in my improved method.
The form of the lower looper R, for effecting the concatenation of the threade
below the material is also of secondary importance provided it is adapted to
manipulate the threads below the cloth as herein described. For purposes of
illustration the drawings indicate a looper R, formed and operating substantially
as set forth in United States Letters Patent No. 365,665. This lower looper R,
carries the under or third thread 4, and is formed with the point r, and relief or

page_text: inclined surface r¹, the latter for the purpose of causing the bight of the loop ot
the thread 2 to slip over to that of the loop of thread 3 under the tension created
when the needles rise, as indicated in Figures 9 and 10.
The cloth-plate is represented in section at c, c, in approximate position with
relation to the operative parts in Figure 6, but without regard to relative position
in Figures 7, 8, 9, and 10, in which the cloth plate and lower looper R, are
separated sufficiently to permit the positions of the threads to be shown.
diagrammatically.
The lower looper R, common to sewing machines using a single needle, carries a.
continuous under thread (4) making what is known as the Grover and Baker stitch.
It has an intermittent reciprocating movement in a horizontal plane, having also a
lateral motion with relation to the position of the needles. By this means it is
enabled to take the loops from the thread-carrying needles g, g', on one side of the
needles and then pass to the other side of the needles to form and present a loop
of its own thread (4) in such position that upon the next descent of the needles
one of the latter passes a loop of one of the upper threads through it, thereby
locking the stitch as a whole.
In Figures 3, 4 and 5, several stitches are represented as already formed in the
material d. Both needles g, g', are shown as elevated in Figures 3 and 4, their
threads 2, 3, extending from their eyes to the material d, at the points where the
needles receded from the material at the completion of the last stitch, the material
having been fed the length of a stitch preparatory to the descent of the needles
to make two more parallel stitches. In this position the upper looper b, engages
the thread 3 (as indicated in Figure 3) and carries it across over the upper side of
the material forming a loop or bight in the thread 3 which extends slightly
beyond the vertical axis of the needle g', as indicated in Figure 4, so that upon
the descent of the needles the said needle y', will carry its thread 2 through the
loop formed by the looper b, in the thread 3, thereby securing the thread 3,
above the material and producing the cross concatenation shown. The looper b is
retracted into its former position at or about the completion of the descent of
the needles.
The descent of the needles carries both threads 2, 3, through the material, and
as they start to rise again loops are formed in both threads 2, 3, as indicated in
Figure 7, which are entered by the point r, of the lower looper R, as shown in
Figure 9. The mark adjoining the point r, of the looper R, Figures 8, 9 and 10,
indicates that the looper is at rest after completing its stroke in the direction of
the horizontal arrow. As the needles g, g', continue to ascend the tension upon the
loops 3 and 2 causes them to seek the highest part of the incline or relief formed
on the under side of the looper, thereby bringing the lower part of the loop
formed in the outer or edge thread into proximity (Figures 9 and 10) to the
corresponding part of the loop formed in the inner thread 3 under the line of
stitching made by the latter, and a little beyond the path of movement of the
needle g, when the looper starts to recede. While the looper R thus starts to
recede during the elevation of the needles it also moves laterally to the front or
opposite side of the path of the needles, so that as the needles again descend the
needle will
and 3 and
pass to the right of both the loops formed in threads
will enter the loop formed in the looper thread 4 by its retractile movement, as
illustrated in Figure 11. The continued retraction of the lower looper R during
which
the descent of the needles draws the lower thread around the needle 9,
latter carries its thread 3 below the under thread sufficiently to admit of the
formation of a loop which the point r of the looper R may enter when it again
advances, this position of the parts bringing us again to the conditions shown in
Figure 7, at the commencement of the description, it being seen that Figures 7,
and 12 represent the same relative arrangement of parts, the needles having
first completed their downward stroke and the looper R its retractile movement
in Figure 12, while in Figure 7 the looper is about to advance and the needles
to rise.

page_text: In the foregoing description the needles are described as both passing through
the material, the seam produced being that represented in Figures 1 and 2, above
the dotted line a, a.
Where the material is fed to the machine with the edge between the needles
the same manipulation of the threads by the operative parts occurs, but the result
is somewhat different in appearance as will be seen by reference to the portions
of Figures 1 and 2 below the dotted line a, a. Under these conditions the left
hand needle thread 3 is the only one that appears above the goods when stitched,
the portion of the right hand needle thread 2, which forms the parallel edge stitch
when both needles penetrate the material, being drawn over by the tension to the
under side of the material, carrying with it and spreading out a portion of the left
hand needle thread 3, and leaving the strands 3 above close together and parallel
to each other. The result of this simple change in the manner of feeding the
material to the needles is the production, in effect, of a superior and safe
over stitch" for binding, stitching hat sweats, &c.
<<
The seam formed by passing both needles through the material, consisting
essentially of two parallel rows of stitches, may be trimmed as indicated by the
dotted lines, Figures 1 and 2, the trimming being done close to but not
cutting the threads 2 and 3, and thereafter the two pieces of material may be
opened out, leaving the loops of the threads 2 and 3, extending from one to the
other seam, the thread 2 crossing from one to the other line of stitching at one
side of the opened-out material while the thread 3, is extended across on the other
side of the material, the said threads each concatenated in the line of stitching
made by the other thread and each with the third thread 4, serving to bind and
hold in place smoothly the material between the parallel lines of stitching and
making a safe, non-ripping flat seam. By superposing the material and sewing
with the right hand needle g', over the edge substantially the same result can be
attained when the material is opened out.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
The herein described seam consisting of the material or fabric to be overseamed
or joined and a series of stitches composed of two upper threads, 2, and 3, and a
lower thread 4, the upper thread 3 having loops which pass through the material
and laterally extended loops through which loops of the other upper thread 2 pass,
while beneath or on the opposite side of the material the loops of both of said
upper threads are concatenated by the lower thread 4 which is looped within the
loops of both of the said threads 2 and 3 and then around outside of each loop
of the upper thread 3 which passes through the material; whereby the enchained
loops on the lower side of the material are located at one row of stitches and the
interlooped threads above the material at the other or opposite row of stitches,
substantially as set forth.
Dated this 6th day of December 1894.