A New or Improved Method and Pattern for Cutting Riding Breeches.
Year: 1892

page_text: Date of Application, 2nd Dec., 1892-Accepted, 7th Jan., 1893
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
A New or Improved Method and Pattern for Cutting Riding
Breeches.
We GEORGE DAVID HOBSON and ERNEST JAMES HOBSON, trading as
Hobson Bros., Tailors, of 53, Piccadilly London, do hereby declare the nature of
this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
Our invention relates to a new or improved method and pattern for cutting
riding breeches.
Heretofore riding breeches were not cut to the shape of the leg, but were shaped
after being cut by a workman who had to stretch and pull the material accordingly,
thus greatly impoverishing the same.
Now according to our invention the breeches are forthwith cut to the shape of the
wearer's leg, both the top and the underside being cut so as to assume a curved or
crooked form in contradistinction to the methods hitherto employed when they
were cut straight.
Our improved method of cutting riding breeches will be found of great utility
when cutting breeches from stiff material such as from velveteen, cotton cords, drills
and the like, a perfect fit being produced without having resort to inartistic and
unsightly cuts and puckers under the knees.
According to our invention the leg seam is cut on the bias or obliquely from the
material thus giving more ease and elasticity to the breeches, while the latter will
retain their shape after exposure to the weather or after being cleaned, whereas
with the ordinary method of cutting the shrinking is liable to disappear and the
shape to be spoilt unless the breeches are forthwith placed on suitable trees.
The accompanying drawing represents a pattern according to which we are
enabled to carry our invention into practice.
To illustrate the application of our improved method we assume that the following
are the measurements taken from the customer who is to be fitted with a pair of
riding breeches
Side seam from hip to heel of foot
Leg seam from fork to heel-
Round waist
Round seat
Size of knee
-
Small below knee
Calf
-
-
-
42 inches
31
"
30
"
36
32
14
"
-
12
"
-
14
"
We first draw a construction line O to O; from 0 to A represents the length of
the side seam minus the length of leg; from A to B is one inch less than half the
leg measure. From B to S represents one fourth of the seat measure minus inch.
From S to T is one fourth of the knee measure, from S to H is 1 inches.
We now place the right angle of a set square at H with one side of said square
resting on T and we extend the line to G and make H to M at right angles
with H to G as this line H to M is taken as a centre, it should go straight from
knee bone to shin. From H to G is half the size of the knee measure plus inch.
From N to U is half small plus inch and from M to R is half calf, plus inch for
seam.
We now draw a straight line from H to B. The vent between E and Y can
either be taken out or left to be pulled on to undersides at point of knee at F.
The length from H to N is 3 inches and from N to M 3 inches.

page_text: For the undersides we extend the line H S to Z and we place the right angle of
the set square at G one side resting on C, and we mark where this side intersects
at Z. We then draw a straight line across from E to F at right angles with the
construction line O O, and we then measure the size of the top side as at G to Y,
put that quantity on Z and measure to F the size of knee plus 1 inch, we then draw
a line from F to Z and from Z to W which is to be half the difference between the
knce measure and the small measure when line W S V is drawn at right angles
with ZF there being 3 inches from W to H and 3 inches from H to V. We
now measure the small and the calf in the same manner as the knee adding 1 inch
for the seams.
From O to 8 is half the seat less 1 inch from A to 9 is half the seat while
from 9 to C is one sixth of the seat plus of an inch. We now draw the curve of
fly, and to find the seat line we mark back from C and place the set square on
until the position of seat line is formed so that the angle
the set square resting on and the other side at A.
at the seat one side of
We now make widths up as at P and cast a segment from P to I making C a
centre. We finally complete by shaping as per pattern.
Having now fully described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we
claim is
The new or improved method of cutting riding breeches according to the pattern
shewn, whereby the garment is forthwith cut to the shape of the wearer's leg,
substantially as herein described.
Dated this 1st day of December 2000
F. G. CASSELL,
Of Cassell & Co., Patent Agents,
22, Glasshouse Street, Regent Street, London,
Agent for the Applicant.
F. G. CASSELL,
Of Cassell & Co., Patent Agents,
22, Glasshouse Street, Regent Street, London,
Agent for the Applicant.