IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS TO BE USED IN THE MANUFACTURE OF HATS
Year: 1874

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Spence, of S, Quality Court, Chancery
Lane, in the County of Middlesex, Patent Agent, for the Inven-
tion of "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS TO BE USED IN THE
MANUFACTURE OF HATS."—A communication from abroad by James
W. Corey, of the City of Newark, in the County of Newark, in the
State of New Jersey, one of the United States of America.
Sealed the 26th February 1875, and dated the 31st December 1874.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION filed by the said William Spence at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition and
Declaration, on the 31st December 1874, pursuant to the 9th
Section of the Patent Law Amendment Act, 1852.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION filed by the said William Spence at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patcuts, with his Petition and
Declaration, on the 31st December 1874, pursuant to the Oth
Section of the Patent Law Amendment Act, 1852.
D TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, WILLIAM
SPENCE, of 8, Quality Court, Chancery Lane, in the County of Middlesex,
Patent Agent, send greeting.

page_text: Fig. 6 is a plan of the binder that holds the cap tightly against the
pattern or flange M when a brim is being curled.
Figs. 7, 8, and 9 are views of the iron for pressing and finishing.
Above the
The machine consists of a hollow column A to be secured to the floor
and provided near the top with a clamp screw for holding the standard B
at any desired height. This standard carries in a suitable frame on top
a pin a, upon which is hinged a forked piece b, b, to which is attached
a ratclict segment C, by the aid of which the piece b, b, can be tipped
and held at any desired angle (being held by the pawl D) when the
machine is used for finishing under brims or side crowns.
forked piece b, b, is a notched collar F, in the centre of which is a strong
pin E, upon which a hat block can be set, as in Fig. 2, when crowns aro
to be finished; or a pattern frame K, K, (as shown in Fig. 1 supporting
the pattern or flange M) when brims are to be curled and finished.
When used for this latter purpose the hat has a block fitted into it, and
is placed in the curling pattern M, the tip of the crown resting on tho
rest d, which can be exactly adjusted by the screw c.
The binder e, c,
being unloosed, as shown in Fig. 6, the cap R is thrown over the hat,
and the eyes o, o, at its ends are placed on the hooks P, as shown in
Fig. 5, or upon straight pins projecting far enough. These hooks Pare
part of a collar I, which works as a nut upon the scrow H, Fig. 3, within
the tube J, to which the frame K, K, is attached; or the screw. I may
be made exterior to the pipe J and arranged to be turned by a hand
wheel independent of frame K, and thus draw nut I downward. The
screw H is formed with a notched collar G at its lower end similar to F, .
and it is made hollow to fit over the pin E attached to F. Thus when
the screw H and its collar G are placed upon E the teeth in the collars
keep the screw from turning, while the nut collar I with its pins P is at
liberty to turn freely on the screw H, when the pipe J and frame K are
turned by the hands of the operator. The pipe J is prevented from
working off the collar G by a set screw N fitted to a groove in the
part of the same. With this construction it will be seen that a few
turns of the frame K will turn the nut I upon its screw and tighten the
cap R by its attachment to the pins P.
the hat is further increased by the binder
through eyes i attached to springs
sides of frame K, see Figs. 1, 5, and 0.
in place the corde is drawn tightly through the slip knot and
upper
The pressure of the cap upon
e, e, formed of a cord running
hinged by arms to the
When the cap R is firmly

page_text: angular positions, and securing pericct Irectiom of access upon every
side.
It is further evident that a hatter's vise provided with a rotary motion
furnishes the operator the nieans of performing many operations now
effected only by expensive machinery of very great variety. This
machine is therefore not regarded as useful only for the purposes
described in detail above, but the right is claimed to the exclusive use of
the machinery above described for any work upon a hat to which it may
prove itself adapted, as finishing, ironing, pressing, and pouncing the
tip and sides of the crown, the upper and under brim, and the inside of
the hat if necessary; also clipping and shaving, and the shaping,
flanging, and curling of brims.
The iron, shewn in Figs. 7, S, and 9, is meant for general use by
hatters, but is especially adapted for pressing hats upon such a machine
as that described, for it can be made to contain upon its various faces
the requisite forms to fit the tip and sides of the crown, as well as the
upper and under brim and the edges of the same.
The block or iron S, which is of a quadrilateral form, is made hollow
to receive a suitable heating medium, as a block of metal, and it is pro-
vided with a cover T for closing the recess in the iron.
The different faces of the iron may be provided with forms either upon
the substance of the iron (as at U for pressing the under brim) or upon
the detachable plates V, V, said forms being adapted to impart to the
side, crown, tip, and brim the exact shape desired, which can never be
dono perfectly by a flat iron.
The
Upon the plate V are shewn grooves for imparting to the hat brim a
flanged or curled edge when the iron is drawn over the same.
larger groove W is employed for shaping the brim at the sides of the
body, as the brim is at this point curled or flanged to its greatest extent.
The smaller groove X is used for shaping the front and rear of the brim,
as the same requires to be turned to only a slight extent in comparison
with the sides of the brim.
The form or configuration of the grooves is of course determined as
fashion may dictate, the same being fitted to a certain pattern or flange
and of such form that they will receive the edge of the brim for
operating on both sides of the same in order to produce a flanged or

page_text: curled edge of the requisito shape with the briefest application of the
iron, the groove fitting a large portion of the brim at once, and needing
but a trifling movement back and forth to press all that portion with
which it is in contact.
A little reflection will show how great an economy of time and labour 5
is secured by the use of an iron that fits so large a portion of the brim
at once, instead of a flat iron that has to be applied with a great number
of strokes to every part of the brim in turn.
To facilitate the handling of the implement handles are provided of a
non-conducting material on two of the sides, by grasping which the 1
entire brim can be shaped without changing the implement, as it is
provided with grooves adapted to the varying curves of the entire brim.
The ridge Y plays an important part in shaping the brim, as it rests
upon the inner rim as the iron passes over or along the edge of the brim
during the process of flanging, curling, and shaping the same, and 18
contributes greatly to the case with which the implement can be operated
upon all sides of the same.
At U is shown a surface adapted for pressing the under side of the
brim, and at Z a concave fitted to the side of the crown.
As the detachable plates described could be used upon any hot iron 2
the construction of such plates is claimed to whatever part of the hat
they may be filled, if used in combination with a heated medium or
implement adapted for their support or application to the hat.
Having thus described the nature of the said Invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed, I hereby declare that what I 2
claim as of the said Invention communicated to me from abroad as
aforesaid is,--
First. The mounting of a hatter's vise upon a column, substantially
as and for the purpose described.
Secondly. The construction of a hatter's vise with an universal 30
revolving joint to transmit motion through the same in any desired
position.
Thirdly. The mechanism, herein-before described, for holding a hat
and operating upon the same, constructed with a jointed frame or holder,
and gearing to transmit rotary motion through or beyond the joint in 35
any required position.

page_text: Fourthly. The mechanism, herein-before described, for holding a hat
and operating upon the same for the purpose of drawing a cover tightly
over the hat by means of a screw and nut, and also adjustable hooks or
pins, as described.
-
Fifthly. The parts, herein-before described, for drawing the cap closely
against the sides of the pattern or flange, and supporting the same in
the proper position.
And, Lastly. The hatter's implement for flanging, shaping, and curling
hat brims adapted to operate on one or more parts of the hat brim; also
with an ironing surface, grooves, and handles, and also with one or more
loose plates adapted to be removed or changed as required, such plates
being grooved to fit a curled brim, or hollowed to fit the tip and side
crown, or convex for finishing the under brim, as herein-beforo de-
scribed.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Spence, have hereunto set
my hand and scal, the Thirty-first day of December, in the year
of our Lord One thousand cight hundred and seventy-four.
Witness,
W. A. JACKSON,
8, Quality Court.
WILLIAM SPENCE. (L.S.)