Year: 1883

page_text: I WILLIAM ROBERT LAKE of the firm of Haseltine Lake & Co, Patent Agents
Southampton Buildings in the County of Middlesex seek leave to amend the
Specification of Letters Patent, No. 4765 of 1883 as shown in red ink in the copy
of the original Specification hereunto annexed :-
My reason for making the amendment are as follow:-That, entirely through
an error of the person who translated the French Specification into English it is
incorrectly made to appear that a certain undesirable effect is the result of treating
the fabric according to this Invention the fact being that on the contrary-the
treatment referred to enables the Inventor to remedy the defect. The French
Specification from which the translation was made is attached hereto the part in
question being marked in red ink on page 6.
In the matter of Letters Patent granted to William Robert Lake N° 4765 of
the series of the year 1883.
I hereby grant leave to the said William Robert Lake to amend the Specification,
filed in pursuance of the said Letters Patent, in the manner proposed.
Dated this 20th day of August 1884.
J. CLARK HALL,
Deputy Comptroller.

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Robert Lake, of the firm of Haseltine, Lake
& Co, Patent Agents, Southampton Buildings, London for an Invention of
"IMPROVEMENTS RELATING TO THE GOFFERING OR EMBOSSING OF TEXTILE
FABRICS communicated to bim from abroad by Claude Garnier of Lyons
and Paul Depoully of Paris, both in the Republic of France.
"
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Robert Lake at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 6th October 1883.
"
WILLIAM ROBERT LAKE of the firm of Haseltine, Lake, and Co, Patent Agents,
Southampton Buildings, London, "IMPROVEMENTS RELATING TO THE GOFFERING
OR EMBOSSING OF TEXTILE FABRICS [A communication to him from abroad by
Claude Garnier of Lyons and Paul Depoully of Paris, both in the Republic of
France.]
This invention relates to improved methods or processes of treating textile
fabrics to improve their quality when goffered or embossed.
One part of the said invention consists in impregnating the goffered or embossed
fabrics with, or completely immersing them in, solutions of agents or substances
capable of preserving the said fabrics from the action of water.
These agents are numerous and amongst them may be mentioned collodion,
celluloid, caoutchouc, metallic soaps and resinous bodies. They may be used singly
or mixed.
In order to render the fabrics supple stearic acid, spermaceti fatty
matters, paraffine, gum-lac and the like may be added.
The solutions of these agents or substances must be made by means of liquids
which will not destroy or injure the design or style of the goffering or embossing
such as hydrocarbons, essences, alcohols and ethers. After the complete immersion
of the fabric the excess of liquid is removed by drying or other suitable means and
the fabric is afterwards completely dried.
It may be necessary to repeat this treatment either with the same solution or
with a different solution. The fabric may also be immersed previous to the
goffering or embossing, this method howeyer does not yield such good results as the
process above described. The two methods or processes may moreover be employed
simultaneously if desired that is to say. the immersion of the fabric before goffering
or embossing may be combined with the immersion of the goffered or embossed
fabric.
Goffered or embossed fabrics acquire the property of effectually resisting the
action of water even when such action continues for some considerable time, when
they are treated by resins of the kind known as Madagascar copal dissolved in
turpentine, hydrocarbons, ethers or the like. The better the quality of the resins,
the more complete are the results obtained therefrom; it is consequently preferable
to use such resins as Madagascar copal amber, Zanzibar, Demerara or Sierra Leone
gums.
The solutions are made with resins which are melted in the same manner as
those used in the manufacture of varnishes, or with resins rendered soluble by
means of some agent such as acetone or lavender by well known methods. Good

page_text: results may also be obtained by using metallic stearates, especially the stearate of
aluminium in solution in turpentine, petrolemia and other hydrocarbons.
Stearic acid and hydrate of alumina in suitable proportions to form a neutral
stearate, for example, are boiled in water until their combination is effected; the
soap thus produced is dried and will then dissolve in the solvent.
Resins of the copal class are suitable for stiff dressings, stearates are more
appropriate for supple dressings. The strength of the solutions of resin or of
stearine varies from per cent to 20 per cent according to the nature of the fabric.
As examples of how the fixed goffering or embossing of fabrics may be effected
when a dressing is applied to the said fabric previous to goffering or embossing and
is completed afterwards I may mention the following two modes of preparation,
that is to say In the first mode a fabric is impregnated with a solution of albumen
prepared from the white of eggs, it is then dried and goffered or embossed. The
albumen is then coagulated upon the goffered or embossed fabric by immersion in
alcohol, acetic acid or a mixture of both, or by a varnish prepared with alcohol.
In the second mode of preparation a fabric is impregnated with a solution of
gum-lac, it is then dried and goffered or embossed. The dressing effected by the
gum-lac is then completed if necessary by immersing the goffered or embossed
fabric in one of the resinous solutions above mentioned: Gum-lac is employed for
the preparatory treatment of the fabric because it is easily softened by heat; by
reason of this property it becomes plastic during its passage between the heated
cylinders of the goffering or embossing machine and assumes, together with the
fabric to which it is applied, the exact form of the engraved designs and retains
the same after cooling.
Although some of the above mentioned substances may have been heretofore
used to render textile fabrics impermeable, it should be remarked that it is not to
obtain this result that they are applied according to this invention the object of
which is to form upon any fabric, either strong or light, and whether silk, cotton or
other material, gofferings or embossed effects which will resist the action of moisture
and rain.
Another part of the said invention has for its object to render cotton fabrics and
other vegetable fibrous materials, especially light fabrics such as gauze, muslin
and the like, sufficiently strong to bear the operation of goffering or embossing
which strength they do not possess in their ordinary state, being generally cut or
torn in the goffering or embossing process by the pressure of the engraved cylinders
especially when the reliefs of the design are very prominent. In order to render
the said fabrics sufficiently strong I utilize the property possessed by concentrated
alkaline solutions of contracting vegetable fibres and rendering them elastic.
Fabrics made of vegetable matter immersed in alkaline solutions shrink in every
direction and become stronger without losing their original qualities. It will be
therefore easily understood that fabrics treated by alkaline lyes are capable by
reason of the elasticity they thus acquire, of resisting rupture by the crushing
action of the edges of the engravings on the rollers and of receiving accurately
the impression of the said engravings, however prominent the reliefs thereof may
be, the goffering or embossing not being effected as heretofore upon stretched and
breakable material but upon flexible and elastic fibrous material. The alkaline
lyes employed for the above mentioned purpose must be concentrated. It is
difficult to state fixed proportions because the proportions vary according to the
nature of the fabric and the thickness of its threads. When caustic soda is
employed the concentration may be carried on until a density of from 30° to 36°
is reached. The period of immersion may also be varied. After remaining for a
sufficient period of time in the concentrated lye the fabric is rinsed and dried, care
being taken not to stretch it too much, so that it will not lose the elasticity
necessary to permit the goffering or embossing to be effected. After being dried the
fabric thus prepared is goffered or embossed under the action of heat. It may
he dyed if required previous to being subjected to the operation of goffering or
embossing.

page_text: The fabrics treated as above described are rendered impermeable to the action of
rain and moisture in the manner indicated. in the description of the first part
of this invention.
As a consequence of the transformation to which vegetable fabrics are subjected
when treated by concentrated alkaline solutions, the said fabrics when removed
from the goffering or embossing cylinders have the side which has been in contact
with the said cylinder much more lustrous or shiny than the other side. This
difference of lustre or gloss between the two sides of the fabric is very detrimental
and diminishes the value of the said fabrics.
In order to obviate this defect I place between the metallic cylinder and the
fabric which is to be goffered or embossed a piece of cotton termed a doubler
or blanket and serving as an intermediate piece between the metal and the said
fabric.
The property acquired by cotton fabrics treated by alkaline lyes of resisting the
crushing action of the engraved cylinder permits the employment of a cotton fabric
thus treated as an intermediate piece. The said pieces thus treated resist a great
many times the action of the embossing cylinders, whereas ordinary cotton fabrics
are cut the first time they are used and are consequently rendered useless.
Other materials than cotton may be subjected to the alkaline treatment and be
used as intermediate pieces.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed
by the said William Robert Lake in the Patent Office on the 5th April
1884.
"
"
WILLIAM ROBERT LAKE, of the firm of Haseltine, Lake, and Co. Patent Agents,
Southampton Buildings, London. "IMPROVEMENTS RELATING TO THE GOFFERING
OR EMBOSSING OF TEXTILE FABRICS A communication to me from abroad
by Claude Garnier, of Lyons, and Paul Depoully, of Paris, both in the republic of
France.
This invention relates to an improved method or process of treating texțile
fabrics in order to improve their quality, when goffered or embossed.
One part of the said invention consists in impregnating or completely immersing
the goffered or embossed fabrics in solutions of agents or substances capable of
preserving the said fabrics from the action of water.
These agents and amongst them may be mentioned collodion, celluloid, caoutchouc,
metallic soaps and resinous bodies may be used singly or mixed. In order to render
the fabrics supple, stearic acid, spermaceti, fatty matters, paraffine, gumlac and the
like may be added. The solutions of these agents or substances must be made by
means of liquids which will not destroy or injure the design or style of the goffering
or embossing such as hydro-carbons, essences, alcohols and ethers.
After the complete immersion of the fabric, the excess of liquid is removed by
drying or other suitable means and the fabric is afterwards completely dried.
It may be necessary to repeat this treatment either with the same solution
or with a different solution. The fabric, may also be immersed previous to the
goffering or embossing, this method however does not yield such good results as
the process above described.
The two methods or processes may moreover be employed simultaneously if
desired that is to say the immersion of the fabric before goffering or embossing
may be combined with the immersion of the goffered or embossed fabric.
Goffered or embossed fabrics acquire the property of effectually resisting the
action of water, even when such action continues for some considerable time, when
they are treated by resins of the kind known as hard copal dissolved in turpentine
hydro-carbons, ether or the like. The better the quality of the resins, the more
complete are the results obtained therefrom, it is consequently preferable to use
such resins as copal, amber, Zanzibar, Demerara, or Sierra Leone gums and the like.
The solutions are made with resins which are melted in the same manner as
those used in the manufacture of varnishes, or with resins rendered soluble by
means of some agent such as acetone or lavender according to well known methods.
Good results may also be obtained by using metallic stearates, especially the stearate,
of aluminium in solution in turpentine, petroleum and other hydrocarbons.
Stearic acid and hydrate of alumina in suitable proportions to form a neutral
stearate for example, are boiled in water until their combination is effected; the
soap thus produced is dried and will then dissolve completely in the solvent.
Resins of the copal class are suitable for stiff dressings, stearates are more
appropriate for supple dressings.
The strength of the solutions of resin or of stearine vary from 5 per cent to
20 per cent, according to the nature of the fabric.
As examples of how the fixed goffering or embossing of fabrics may be effected
when a dressing is applied to the said fabric previous to goffering or embossing,

page_text: and is completed afterwards, I may mention two other modes of preparation.
According to the first mode a fabric is impregnated with a solution of albumen
prepared from the white of eggs, it is then dried and goffered or embossed. The
albumen is then coagulated upon the goffered or embossed fabric by immersion in
alcohol, acetic acid or a mixture of both, or by a varnish prepared with alcohol.
According to the second mode of preparation a fabric is impregnated with a
solution of gumlac it is then dried and goffered or embossed. The dressing effected
by the gumlac is then completed if necessary by immersing the goffered or
embossed fabric in one of the resinous solutions above mentioned. Gumlac is
employed for the preparatory treatment of the fabric because it is easily softened
by heat; by reason of this property it becomes plastic during its passage between
the heated cylinders of the goffering or embossing machine and assumes together
with the fabric to which it is applied the exact form of the engraved designs and
retains the same after cooling.
Although some of the above mentioned substances may have been heretofore
used to render textile fabrics impermeable, it should be remarked that it is not to
obtain this result that they are applied according to this invention, the object of
which is to form upon any fabric, either strong or light, and whether silk, cotton
or other material, gofferings or embossed effects which will resist the action of
moisture and rain.
Another part of the said invention has for its object to render cotton fabrics and
other vegetable fibrous materials, especially light fabrics such as gauze, muslin and
the like, sufficiently strong to bear the operation of goffering or embossing which
strength they do not possess in their ordinary state, being generally cut or torn in
the goffering or embossing process by the pressure of the engraved cylinders,
especially when the reliefs of the design are very prominent.
In order to obviate this defect I utilize the property possessed by concentrated
alkaline solutions of contracting vegetable fibres and rendering them elastic.
Fabrics made of vegetable matter immersed in alkaline solutions shrink in every
direction and become stronger without losing their original qualities. It will be
therefore easily understood that fabrics treated by alkaline lyes are capable by
reason of the elasticity thus acquired of resisting rupture by the crushing action of
the edges of the engravings on the rollers, and of receiving accurately the impression
of the said engravings, however prominent the reliefs thereof may be; the
goffering or embossing not being effected as heretofore upon stretched and breakable
material but upon flexible and elastic fibrous material.
The alkaline lyes employed for the above mentioned purpose must be con-
centrated. It is difficult to state fixed proportions because the proportions vary
according to the nature of the fabric and the thickness of its threads. When
caustic soda is employed the concentration may be carried on until a density of
from 30° to 36° is reached. The period of immersion may also be varied. After
remaining for a sufficient period of time in the concentrated lye, the fabric is
rinsed and dried care being taken not to stretch it too much, so that it will not
lose the elasticity necessary to permit the goffering or embossing to be effected.
After being dried the fabric thus prepared is goffered or embossed under the action
of heat. It may be dyed if required previous to being subjected to the operation
of goffering or embossing.
The above described methods may also be applied to fabrics composed of
vegetable fibres intermixed with threads formed of animal fibres such as silk wool
and the like, that is to say, fabrics the chain or warp of which is of silk whereas
the weft is of cotton. In order to be successful in the goffering or embossing of
these mixed fabrics certain precautions must be taken in the operations which
cause the vegetable fibres to shrink and give them the elasticity required for
goffering or embossing. The object of these precautions is to prevent damage to
the animal fibres during their immersion in concentrated alkaline lyes. It is 5
necessary for that purpose to lower, at all seasons of the year, the temperature of
the baths of alkaline lyes and cause them to descend as near to zero as possible,

page_text: Under these conditions, neither the silk nor the wool are attacked when the
operation is carried out rapidly and its action is arrested by means of a prompt
ringing.
The temperature of the alkaline bath must be maintained beween zero and
fifteen degrees centigrade and the duration of the immersion must be limited to
10 minutes at the most.
It will be easily understood that in mixed fabrics, the wool and the silk gain
nothing as regards resistance to the operation of goffering or embossing only the
vegetable fibres derive any benefit from their treatment by alkaline lyes and
acquire thereby a greater strength.
The fabrics made of vegetable matter or mixed with animal textile fibres treated
as above described are rendered impermeable to the action of rain and moisture in
the manner indicated in the description of the first part of this invention. Besides
the two principal features of the said invention, there is a third feature which
naturally results from As a consequence of the transformation to which vegetable
fabrics undergo are subjected when treated by concentrated alkaline solutions.
the said fabrics when removed It usually happens that the materials as they come
from the goffering or embossing cylinders have one of their sides viz that which
has been in contact with the said engraved metallic cylinder much more lustrous or
shiny than the other side. that which has been in contact with the paper cylinder
The difference of lustre or gloss between the two sides of the fabric is very
detrimental and diminishes the value of the said fabrics.
In order to obviate this defect I place between the metallic cylinder and the
fabric which is to be goffered or embossed a piece of cotton termed a doubler or
blanket and serving as an intermediate piece between the metal and the said
fabric.
The property acquired by cotton fabrics treated by alkaline lyes of resisting the
crushing action of the engraved cylinder permits the employment of a cotton fabric
as an intermediate piece. The said pieces thus treated resist a great many times
the action of the embossing cylinders, whereas ordinary cotton fabrics are cut the
first time they are used and are consequently rendered useless.
Other materials than cotton may be subjected to the alkaline treatment and be
used as intermediate pieces.
Having thus fully described the said invention as communicated to me by my
foreign Correspondents and the manner of performing the same I wish it understood
that I claim.
First The method of rendering goffering or embossing permanent by means of
a dressing which renders it impermeable to the action of rain and dampness.
Second: The goffering or embossing of cotton fabrics and other vegetable
fibres and of fabrics in which vegetable and animal fibres are mixed, prepared with
concentrated alkaline lyes in order to render them capable of withstanding the
goffering or embossing operation effected with heat and high pressure without
being altered or torn even when the engravings are in very prominent relief.
Third The employment as intermediate pieces during the goffering or embossing
operation of cotton pieces and other vegetable fibres prepared with concentrated
alkaline lyes in order to avoid the gloss or lustre produced by the contact of the
metallic cylinder.
In witness whereof I the said William Robert Lake have hereunto set my hand
and seal this fourth day of April in the year of our Lord One thousand eight
bundred and eighty four.

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Robert Lake, of the firm of Haseltine, Lake
& Co, Patent Agents, Southampton Buildings, London for an Invention of
"IMPROVEMENTS RELATING TO THE GOFFERING OR EMBOSSING OF TEXTILE
FABRICS" communicated to him from abroad by Claude Garnier of Lyons
and Paul Depoully of Paris, both in the Republic of France.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Robert Lake at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 6th October 1883.
"
WILLIAM ROBERT LAKE, of the firm of Haseltine, Lake, and Co, Patent Agents,
Southampton Buildings, London, IMPROVEMENTS RELATING TO THE GOFFERING
OR EMBOSSING OF TEXTILE FABRICS" [A communication to him from abroad by
Claude Garnier of Lyons and Paul Depoully of Paris, both in the Republic of
France.]
This invention relates to improved methods or processes of treating textile
fabrics to improve their quality when goffered or embossed.
One part of the said invention consists in impregnating the goffered or embossed
fabrics with, or completely immersing them in, solutions of agents or substances
capable of preserving the said fabrics from the action of water.
These agents are numerous and amongst them may be mentioned collodion,
celluloid, caoutchouc, metallic soaps and resinous bodies. They may be used singly
or mixed. In order to render the fabrics supple stearic acid, spermaceti fatty
matters, paraffine, gum-lac and the like may be added.
The solutions of these agents or substances must be made by means of liquids
which will not destroy or injure the design or style of the goffering or embossing
such as hydrocarbons, essences, alcohols and ethers. After the complete immersion
of the fabric the excess of liquid is removed by drying or other suitable means and
the fabric is afterwards completely dried.
It may be necessary to repeat this treatment either with the same solution or
with a different solution. The fabric may also be immersed previous to the
goffering or embossing, this method however does not yield such good results as the

page_text: process above described. The two methods or processes may moreover be employed
simultaneously if desired that is to say. the immersion of the fabric before goffering
or embossing may be combined with the immersion of the goffered or embossed
fabric.
Goffered or embossed fabrics acquire the property of effectually resisting the
action of water even when such action continues for some considerable time, when
they are treated by resins of the kind known as Madagascar copal dissolved in
turpentine, hydrocarbons, ethers or the like. The better the quality of the resins,
the more complete are the results obtained therefrom; it is consequently preferable
to use such resins as. Madagascar.copal amber, Zanzibar, Demerara or Sierra Leone
gums.
The solutions are made with resins which are melted in the same manner as
those used in the manufacture of varnishes, or with resins rendered soluble by
means of some agent such as acetone or lavender by well known methods. Good
results may also be obtained by using metallic stearates, especially the stearate of
aluminium in solution in turpentine, petrolema and other hydrocarbons.
Stearic acid and hydrate of alumina in suitable proportions to form a neutral
stearate, for example, are boiled in water until their combination is effected; the
soap thus produced is dried and will then dissolve in the solvent.
Resins of the copal class are suitable for stiff dressings, stearates are more
appropriate for supple dressings. The strength of the solutions of resin or of
stearine varies from 5 per cent to 20 per cent according to the nature of the fabric.
As examples of how the fixed goffering or embossing of fabrics may be effected
when a dressing is applied to the said fabric previous to goffering or embossing and
is completed afterwards I may mention the following two modes of preparation,
that is to say In the first mode a fabric is impregnated with a solution of albumen
prepared from the white of eggs, it is then dried and goffered or embossed. The
albumen is then coagulated upon the goffered or embossed fabric by immersion in
alcohol, acetic acid or a mixture of both, or by a varnish prepared with alcohol.
In the second mode of preparation a fabric is impregnated with a solution of
gum-lac, it is then dried and goffered or embossed. The dressing effected by the
gum-lac is then completed if necessary by immersing the goffered or embossed
fabric in one of the resinous solutions above mentioned: Gum-lac is employed for
the preparatory treatment of the fabric because it is easily softened by heat; by
reason of this property it becomes plastic during its passage between the heated
cylinders of the goffering or embossing machine and assumes, together with the
fabric to which it is applied, the exact form of the engraved designs and retains
the same after cooling.
Although some of the above mentioned substances may have been heretofore
used to render textile fabrics impermeable, it should be remarked that it is not to
obtain this result that they are applied according to this invention the object of
which is to form upon any fabric, either strong or light, and whether silk, cotton or
other material, gofferings or embossed effects which will resist the action of moisture
and rain.
Another part of the said invention has for its object to render cotton fabrics and
other vegetable fibrous materials, especially light fabrics such as gauze, muslin
and the like, sufficiently strong to bear the operation of goffering or embossing
which strength they do not possess in their ordinary state, being generally cut or
torn in the goffering or embossing process by the pressure of the engraved cylinders
especially when the reliefs of the design are very prominent. In order to render
the said fabrics sufficiently strong I utilize the property possessed by concentrated
alkaline solutions of contracting vegetable fibres and rendering them elastic.
Fabrics made of vegetable matter immersed in alkaline solutions shrink in every
direction and become stronger without losing their original qualities. It will be
therefore easily understood that fabrics treated by alkaline lyes are capable by
reason of the elasticity they thus acquire, of resisting rupture by the crushing
action of the edges of the engravings on the rollers and of receiving accurately

page_text: the impression of the said engravings, however prominent the reliefs thereof may
be, the goffering or embossing not being effected as heretofore upon stretched and
breakable material but upon flexible and elastic fibrous material. The alkaline
lyes employed for the above mentioned purpose must be concentrated. It is
difficult to state fixed proportions because the proportions vary according to the
nature of the fabric and the thickness of its threads. When caustic soda is
employed the concentration may be carried on until a density of from 30° to 36°
is reached. The period of immersion may also be varied. After remaining for a
sufficient period of time in the concentrated lye the fabric is rinsed and dried, care
being taken not to stretch it too much, so that it will not lose the elasticity
necessary to permit the goffering or embossing to be effected. After being dried the
fabric thus prepared is goffered or embossed under the action of heat. It may
be dyed if required previous to being subjected to the operation of goffering or
embossing:
•
The fabrics treated as above described are rendered impermeable to the action of
rain and moisture in the manner indicated in the description of the first part
of this invention.
As a consequence of the transformation to which vegetable fabrics are subjected
when treated by concentrated' alkaline solutions, the said fabrics when removed
from the goffering or embossing cylinders have the side which has been in contact
with the said cylinder much more lustrous or shiny than the other side. This
difference of lustre or gloss between the two sides of the fabric is very detrimental
and diminishes the value of the said fabrics.
In order to obviate this defect I place between the metallic cylinder and the
fabric which is to be goffered or embossed a piece of cotton termed a doubler
or blanket and serving as an intermediate piece between the metal and the said
fabric.
The property acquired by cotton fabrics treated by alkaline lyes of resisting the
crushing action of the engraved cylinder permits the employment of a cotton fabrić
thus treated as an intermediate piece. The said pieces thus treated resist a great
many times the action of the embossing cylinders. whereas ordinary cotton fabrics
are cut the first time they are used and are consequently rendered useless
Other materials than cotton may be subjected to the alkaline treatment and be
used as intermediate pieces

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed
by the said William Robert Lake in the Patent Office on the 5th April
1884.
"
WILLIAM ROBERT LAKE, of the firm of Haseltine. Lake, and Co. Patent Agents,
Southampton Buildings. London, "IMPROVEMENTS RELATING TO THE GOFFERING
OR EMBOSSING OF TEXTILE FABRICS A communication to me from abroad
by Claude Garnier, of Lyons, and Paul Depoully, of Paris, both in the republic of
France
This invention relates to an improved method or process of treating textile
fabrics in order to improve their quality, when goffered or embossed.
One part of the said invention consists in impregnating or completely immersing
the goffered or embossed fabrics in solutions of agents or substances capable of
preserving the said fabrics from the action of water.
These agents and amongst them may be mentioned collodion, celluloid, caoutchouc,
metallic soaps and resinous bodies may be used singly or mixed. In order to render
the fabrics supple, stearic acid, spermaceti, fatty matters, paraffine, gumlac and the
like may be added. The solutions of these agents or substances must be made by
means of liquids which will not destroy or injure the design or style of the goffering
or embossing such as hydro-carbons, essences, alcohols and ethers.
After the complete immersion of the fabric, the excess of liquid is removed by
drying or other suitable means and the fabric is afterwards completely dried.
It may be necessary to repeat this treatment either with the same solution
or with a different solution. The fabric may also be immersed previous to the
goffering or embossing, this method however does not yield such good results as
the process above described.
The two methods or processes may moreover be employed simultaneously if
desired that is to say the immersion of the fabric before goffering or embossing
may be combined with the immersion of the goffered or embossed fabric.
Goffered or embossed fabrics acquire the property of effectually resisting the
action of water, even when such action continues for some considerable time, when
they are treated by resins of the kind known as hard copal dissolved in turpentine
hydro-carbons, ethers or the like. The better the quality of the resins, the more
complete are the results obtained therefrom, it is consequently preferable to use
such resins as copal, amber, Zanzibar, Demerara or Sierra Leone gums and the like.
The solutions are made with resins which are melted in the same manner as
those used in the manufacture of varnishes, or with resins rendered soluble by
means of some agent such as acetone or lavender according to well known methods.
Good results may also be obtained by using metallic stearates, especially the stearate
of aluminium in solution in turpentine, petroleum and other hydrocarbons.
Stearic acid and hydrate of alumina in suitable proportions to form a neutral
stearate for example, are boiled in water until their combination is effected; the
soap thus produced is dried and will then dissolve completely in the solvent.
Resins of the copal class are suitable for stiff dressings, stearates are more
appropriate for supple dressings.
The strength of the solutions of resin or of stearine vary from 5 per cent to
20 per cent, according to the nature of the fabric.
As examples of how the fixed goffering or embossing of fabrics may be effected
when a dressing is applied to the said fabric previous to goffering or embossing
and is completed afterwards, I may mention two other modes of preparation.
According to the first mode a fabric is impregnated with a solution of albumen
prepared from the white of eggs, it is then dried and goffered or embossed. The

page_text: albumen is then coagulated upon the goffered or embossed fabric by immersion in
alcohol, acetic acid or a mixture of both, or by a varnish prepared with alcohol.
According to the second mode of preparation a fabric is impregnated with a
solution of gumlac it is then dried and goffered or embossed. The dressing effected
by the gumlac is then completed if necessary by immersing the goffered or
embossed fabric in one of the resinous solutions above mentioned. Gumlac is
employed for the preparatory treatment of the fabric because it is easily softened
by heat; by reason of this property it becomes plastic during its passage between
the heated cylinders of the goffering or embossing machine and assumes together
with the fabric to which it is applied the exact form of the engraved designs and
retains the same after cooling.
Although some of the above mentioned substances may have been heretofore
used to render textile fabrics impermeable, it should be remarked that it is not to
obtain this result that they are applied according to this invention, the object of
which is to form upon any fabric, either strong or light, and whether silk, cotton
or other material, gofferings or embossed effects which will resist the action of
moisture and rain.
Another part of the said invention has for its object to render cotton fabrics and
other vegetable fibrous materials, especially light fabrics such as gauze, muslin and
the like, sufficiently strong to bear the operation of goffering or embossing which
strength they do not possess in their ordinary state, being generally cut or torn in
the goffering or embossing process by the pressure of the engraved cylinders,
especially when the reliefs of the design are very prominent
In order to obviate this defect I utilize the property possessed by concentrated
alkaline solutions of contracting vegetable fibres and rendering them elastic.
Fabrics made of vegetable matter immersed in alkaline solutions shrink in every
direction and become stronger without losing their original qualities. It will be
therefore easily understood that fabrics treated by alkaline lyes are capable by
reason of the elasticity thus acquired of resisting rupture by the crushing action of
the edges of the engravings on the rollers, and of receiving accurately the impression
of the said engravings, however prominent the reliefs thereof may be; the
goffering or embossing not being effected as heretofore upon stretched and breakable
material but upon flexible and elastic fibrous material.
The alkaline lyes employed for the above mentioned purpose must be con-
centrated. It is difficult to state fixed proportions because the proportions vary
according to the nature of the fabric and the thickness of its threads. When
caustic soda is employed the concentration may be carried on until a density of
from 30° to 36° is reached. The period of immersion may also be varied. After
remaining for a sufficient period of time in the concentrated lye, the fabric is
rinsed and dried care being taken not to stretch it too much, so that it will not
lose the elasticity necessary to permit the goffering or embossing to be effected..
After being dried the fabric thus prepared is goffered or embossed under the action
of heat. It may be dyed if required previous to being subjected to the operation
of goffering or embossing.
The above described methods may also be applied to fabrics composed of
vegetable fibres intermixed with threads formed of animal fibres such as silk wool
and the like, that is to say, fabrics the chain or warp of which is of silk whereas
the weft is of cotton. In order to be successful in the goffering or embossing of
these mixed fabrics certain precautions must be taken in the operations which
cause the vegetable fibres to shrink and give them the elasticity required for
goffering or embossing. The object of these precautions is to prevent damage to
the animal fibres during their immersion in concentrated akaline lyes. It is
necessary for that purpose to lower, at all seasons of the year, the temperature of
the baths of alkaline lyes and cause them to descend as near to zero as possible.
Under these conditions, neither the silk nor the wool are attacked when the
operation is carried out rapidly and its action is arrested by means of a prompt
rinsing.

page_text: The temperature of the alkaline bath must be maintained between zero and
fifteen degrees centigrade and the duration of the immersion must be limited to
10 minutes at the most.
It will be easily understood that in mixed fabrics, the wool and the silk gain
nothing as regards resistance to the operation of goffering or embossing only the
vegetable fibres derive any benefit from their treatment by alkaline lyes and
acquire thereby a greater strength.
The fabrics made of vegetable matter or mixed with animal textile fibres treated
as above described are rendered impermeable to the action of rain and moisture in
the manner indicated in the description of the first part of this invention.
As a consequence of the transformation to which vegetable fabrics are subjected
when treated by concentrated alkaline solutions, the said fabrics when removed
from the goffering or embossing cylinders have one side which has been in contact
with the said cylinder much more lustrous or shiny than the other side.
This difference of lustre or gloss between the two sides of the fabric is very
detrimental and diminishes the value of the said fabrics.
In order to obviate this defect I place between the metallic cylinder and the
fabric which is to be goffered or embossed a piece of cotton termed a doubler or
blanket and serving as an intermediate piece between the metal and the said
fabric.
The property acquired by cotton fabrics treated by alkaline lyes of resisting the
crushing action of the engraved cylinder permits the employment of a cotton fabric
as an intermediate piece. The said pieces thus treated resist a great many times
the action of the embossing cylinders, whereas ordinary cotton fabrics are cut the
first time they are used and are consequently rendered useless.
Other materials than cotton may be subjected to the alkaline treatment and be
used as intermediate pieces.
Having thus fully described the said invention as communicated to me by my
foreign Correspondents and the manner of performing the same I wish it understood
that I claim.
First-The method of rendering goffering or embossing permanent by means of
a dressing which renders it impermeable to the action of rain and dampness.
Second: The goffering or embossing of cotton fabrics and other vegetable
fibres and of fabrics in which vegetable and animal fibres are mixed, prepared with
concentrated alkaline lyes in order to render them capable of withstanding the
goffering or embossing operation effected with heat and bigh pressure without
being altered or torn even when the engravings are in very prominent relief.
Third-The employment as intermediate pieces during the goffering or embossing
operation of cotton pieces and other vegetable fibres prepared with concentrated
alkaline lyes in order to avoid the gloss or lustre produced by the contact of the
metallic cylinder.
In witness whereof I the said William Robert Lake have hereunto set my hand
and seal this fourth day of April in the year of our Lord One thousand eight
hundred and eighty four.