Improvements in the Manufacture of Piled Carpets and Fabrics, and in Looms to be employed in the said Manufacture.
Year: 1893

page_text: The decision of the Comptroller-General, of the 31st day of January 1895,
allowed, under Section 18 of the Patents, &c. Act, 1883, an Amendment of
this Specification.
Date of Application, 15th May, 1893
Complete Specification Left, 15th Feb., 1894-Accepted, 24th Mar., 1894
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Piled Carpets and Fabrics, and
in Looms to be employed in the said Manufacture.
I, FRANCIS BEST FAWCETT, of 44, Comberton Road, Kidderminster, in the
County of Worcester, Commission Agent, do hereby declare the nature of this
invention to be as follows :—
My invention has reference to piled or tufted fabrics known as Moquettes or
Royal Axminster such for instance as are manufactured by the process described in
the Specification of Sydney Pitt's Letters Patent No. 235 of A.D. 1877, or by a
Jacquard loom.
In the manufacture of cut pile or velvet fabrics it is important to have the pile
well bound in; and in fabrics manufactured according to Sydney Pitt's Speci-
fication aforesaid, four shouts of weft were employed for each row of pile and yet
the rows of pile were not sufficiently bound.
By my said improvements as hereinafter described I obtain a tight bind with a
lesser number of wefts, it may be with three shoots of wefts or in some cases two
shoots of wefts to each row of pile and 1 employ an improved weave or stitch for
the purpose and I simplify and improve the process of weaving and effect a saving
of material or of time in weaving or of both and at the same time I improve the
fabrics and make them in some cases firmer and more durable.
One form (which I prefer) of my said improved weave or stitch (which is
capable of several modifications) consists of two wefts above the dead warp and one
weft below; and dividing one of the upper wefts from the other two by crossing
the binding warp between them, and after the insertion of the said upper weft
crossing the binding warp again. The pile in this case may be bound by the first
of the upper wefts which is the second of the series inserted. This makes a firm
and durable fabric.
This weave or stitch is preferable for fabrics with a pile on one side as is
hereinafter further described.
I may employ a two weft weave or stitch by proceeding as above described but
leaving out one of the upper wefts and retaining one weft above and one welt
below the dead warp, and crossing the binding warp after such pair are inserted.
The weaves or stitches above described may be varied in the order of weaving
(though the weaves or stitches produced would be practically the same) by beginning
in some cases with a lower weft first and in others with an upper weft first. The
two shot stitches above described are preferable for fabrics with a pile on both
sides as is hereinafter further explained.
The binding warps may be two threads, in each dent of the reed or slay,
crossing for each weave or stitch as described, and the dead warp may be as usual."

page_text: In tufting looms there are now generally two combs or other devices employed
for putting the lower half of the pile up into position on the face of the cloth, but
my improved weaves or stitches aid in producing this effect, by the order of weaving
first above described therefore the combing action may be dispensed with; and by
dispensing with the uplifting part of the process as well, and beginning to weave
with an upper weft first, I can put a pile on both sides, and thus produce double
fabrics.
In carrying out my invention I alter and adjust the looms as may be required.
Dated this 11th day of May 1893.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Piled Carpets and Fabrics, and
in Looms to be employed in the said Manufacture.
I, FRANCIS BEST FAWCETT, of 44, Comberton Road, Kidderminster, in the
County of Worcester, Commission Agent, do hereby declare the nature of this
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement :--
My invention has reference to piled or tufted fabrics known as Moquette or
Royal Axminster, such for instance as are manufactured by the process described in
the Specification of Sydney Pitt's Letters Patent No. 235 of A.D. 1877. In this
class of process the tufting material is carried in tubes from the lower ends of which it
projects, and the ends of the tufting material are put down in position between the
warp threads, after which a shot of weft is introduced into the shed to secure and fasten
the ends of the tufting material, and then the ends are turned backward and upward by
means of a comb previous to the introduction of the next shot. My improvements relate
only to such a process, and have no application to the other method of producing tufted
fabrics, in which the tuft yarns are folded about a pile wire forming a series of loops
which are cut on the withdrawal of the pile wire by a knife attached thereto.
In the manufacture of cut pile or velvet fabrics it is important to have the pile
well bound in; and in fabrics manufactured according to Sydney Pitt's Speci-
fication aforesaid, four shoots of weft were employed for each row of pile and yet
the rows of pile were not sufficiently bound.
By my said improvements as hereinafter described I obtain a tight bind with a
lesser number of wefts it may be with three shoots of wefts or in some cases two
shoots of wefts to each row of pile and 1 employ an improved weave or stitch for
the purpose and I simplify and improve the process of weaving and effect a saving
of material or of time in weaving or of both and at the same time I improve the
fabrics and make them in some cases firmer and more durable.
One form (which I prefer) of my said improved weave or stitch (which is
capable of several modifications) consists of two wefts above the dead warp and
one weft below; and dividing one of the upper wefts from the other two by crossing
the binding warp between them and after the insertion of the said upper weft
crossing the binding warp again. The pile in this case may be bound by the first
of the upper wefts which is the second of the series inserted. This makes a firm and
durable fabric.
I may employ a two weft weave or stitch by proceeding as above described but
leaving out one of the upper wefts and retaining one weft above and one weft below
the dead warp, and crossing the binding warp after such pair are inserted.
The weaves or stitches above described may be varied in the order of weaving
(though the weaves or stitches produced would be practically the same) by beginning

page_text: The
in some cases with a lower weft first and in others with an upper weft first.
two shot stitches above described are preferable for fabrics with a pile on both sides
as is hereinafter further explained.
The binding warps may be two threads in each dent of the reed or slay, crossing
for each weave or stitch as described and the dead warp may be as usual.
In tufting looms there are now generally two combs or other devices employed
for putting the lower half of the pile up into position on the face of the cloth, but
my improved weave or stitches aid in producing this effect, by the order of weaving
first above described therefore the combing action may be dispensed with; and by
dispensing with the uplifting part of the process as well, and beginning to weave
with an upper or lower weft first, I can put a pile on both sides and thus produce
double fabrics.
In carrying out my invention I alter and adjust the looms as may be required,
and I prefer to adapt my invention to the looms known as Moquettes or Royal
Axminster three shot time looms as now generally employed.
I will now more fully describe my invention by referring to the accompanying
drawings on which
Fig. 1 is a longitudinal section of a piece of Moquette or Royal Axminster
fabric woven with a three shot weave or stitch in accordance with one part of this
invention.
Fig. 2 is a longitudinal section of a piece of Moquette or Royal Axminster
fabric woven with a two shot weave or stitch in accordance with another part of
this invention.
Fig. 3 is a longitudinal section of a piece of Moquette or Royal Axminster
fabric with the pile on both sides and woven with a two shot weave or stitch in
accordance with another part of this invention.
Figs. 4 and 5 are face views respectively of two cams for operating the heddles
governing each half of the binding warp of the weave or stitch shewn by Fig. 1
and
Fig. 6 is a face view of the cam for operating the heddle governing the dead
warp or stuffer for the weave or stitch shewn by Fig. 1.
Fig. 7 is a face view of the cam for operating the heddle governing one half of
the binding warp in the weaves or stitches shewn by Figs. 2 and 3, and
Fig. 7 shews the same cam as Fig. 7 but turned round through half a revolution
so as to be used with the cam Fig. 7 to operate the heddle which governs the
other half of the binding warp in the weaves or stitches shewn by Figs. 2
and 3; and
Fig. 8 is a face view of the cam for operating the heddle governing the dead
warp or stuffer in the stitches shewn by Figs. 2 and 3.
The same letters of reference indicate the same or corresponding parts in all the
figures of the drawings.
The method of weaving the weave or stitch shewn by Fig. 1 and of binding in
the pile or tufts can readily be understood by the following description and by
referring to Figs. 1, 4, 5 and 6. The three shots of weft are in Fig. 1 marked
respectively 1, 2 and 3 and the binding warps are marked respectively a, a' and
the dead warp or stuffer is marked and the pile is marked p. A (Fig. 4) is the
cam for operating the heddle which governs the half of the binding warp marked a;
A' (Fig. 5) is the cam which operates the heddle governing the other half of the
binding warp marked a', and B (Fig. 6) is the cam which operates the heddle for
governing the dead warp or stuffer b. These cams A, A, B, are put on the treadle
box so that the vertical dotted lines X X shewn on the drawing coincide; they
will then produce the order of weaving as follows. (The numbers 12 and 3 in the
roller grooves of the cams shew what parts of the cams are operating on the
respective heddles when the wefts numbers 1 2 and 3 are put in.) The heddles
operating the top half a of the binding warp and the dead warp b are raised, the
heddle for the bottom half a¹ of the binding warp being lowered thus crossing the
binding warp a a'. The back weft number 1 is now inserted, all the heddles (and

page_text: of course the warps) are then put level the cams having mored round until the
rollers are at the points marked T, and the pile ends p are put down through all
the warps.
The heddles operating the dead warp and the bottom half a of
the binding warp are now lowered the top half a being raised as before; the upper
weft number 2 (being the first upper weft although the second of the series) is now
inserted to bind the pile and being. placed by the beat up of the lay with the roots
of the pile above the back weft number 1 aids the subsequent process of putting
or pushing up the lower half of the pile ends p to the face of the cloth, by
producing the same effect as the extra comb for the previous combing action in the
ordinary loom which extra comb may therefore be dispensed with. The action of
the number 2 weft in aiding the putting or pushing up of the lower half of the
pile ends p will be clear by an examination of the right hand end of Fig. 1 which
shews the last pile ends p in the position just after the weft number 2 has been
beaten up by the lay. The cams now v again level the heddles for the ordinary
comb to finish pushing up the pile ends p. The binding warps a a' are again
crossed by the cams raising the heddle operating the bottom half a' of the binding
warp and lowering the heddles of the top half a and of the dead warp b; the
weft number 3 is then inserted thus completing the weave or stitch and the process
is repeated, the cams making one revolution for two weaves or stitches. The
binding warps a a' thus cross twice for three wefts and for each row of pile there
being two wefts numbers 1 and 2 in one shed of the binding warp a al and one
weft number 3 in the next shed. The piling or tufting operations have been going
on during the insertion of the wefts as is well understood. This makes a firm and
durable fabric and the pile is bound fast between the upper and lower wefts
numbers 1 and 2. There is also a saving of time and material as compared with
Sydney Pitt's loon: herein before referred to.
In order that number weft may be placed on a level with number 2 weft as
shewn by Fig. 1 and thus give a better support to the pile p the bottom half a¹ of
the binding warp requires to use up a trifle more length which may be provided
for by putting the warp a' on a separate beam. and the top half a ou another
beam.
For the stitches shewn by Figs. 2 and 3 which I will now describe (both of
which form part of this invention) the whole of the binding warp may be on one
beam as usual. To obtain the weave or stitch shewn by Fig. 2 I proceed as above
described with reference to Fig. 1 but I leave out one of the upper wefts and retain
one weft above the dead warp and one weft below the dead warp and I cross the
binding warp after such pair of wefts are inserted. It will be seen that this weave
or stitch shewn by Fig. 2 is a two shot stitch practically consisting of the wefts
marked numbers 1 and 2 of Fig. 1 repeated without the single weft marked
number 3 between (which is the suitable one to omit) and the binding warps a a¹
crossing between each pair of wefts. To obtain this weave or stitch on a three
shot time loom I employ the cams C, C, D, shewn respectively by Figs. 7, 7º,
and 8 which are fixed on the treadle box so that the vertical dotted lines shewn on
the drawing coincide. The numbers 1 and 2 and the letters T on the cams C, C¹
and D show where the wefts numbers 1 and 2 and the tufts are respectively
inserted and the parts marked M on these cams shew where the third weft is
omitted. I prefer to employ the three shot time looms for this weave, or stitch as
it saves altering the piling or tufting operations but it will be evident that this
weave or stitch can be woven in a two shot time loom with the same result and a
further saving of time.
The desired omission of a weft may be caused by removing the tappet of that
1articular weft from the cam of the weft fork, which causes the weft to be presented
to the inserting needle, so that the needle enters the shed of the warps without any
weit; or this omission of the weft may be effected in any other convenient way.
The construction of the cams C, C and D gives the option of omitting the weft
at either one of two places or picks with the same result. That is to say the weft
may either be omitted at the parts marked 1 on the cams, or at the parts

page_text: marked M. I bave described the order of weaving as omitting at the parts.
marked M.
This two shot stitch Fig. 2 is produced as follows and to save mentioning the
cams and heddles I will speak of the effects produced upon the warps by the
movements of the same :-The binding warp a a' is first crossed whilst the dead
warp b is raised and the back weft number 1 is inserted (the weft may now be
omitted and during the beat up of the lay occurring at this time the warps a, a' and b
may continue in their former positions but the preparatory movements of the piling
or tufting operations will be going on in the meantime). The warps a, a¹ and bare
now put level and the pile ends p are put down through all the warps; the
dead warp b is lowered and the binding warp a, a resumes the same shed as before
and the upper weft number 2 is then inserted to bind the pile and placing the pile
above the back weft number 1 produces the same effect upon the tufts as described
in weaving the stitch shewn by Fig. 1 and the extra comb may be dispensed with
(see the right hand end of Fig. 2 where the number 2 shot has been just beaten up
by the lay). The three warps are then levelled and the ordinary comb pushes
up the pile ends in the usual way. The binding warp a, a' is crossed and the
dead warp bis raised and another stitch is commenced by the insertion of a back
weft number 1 and the process is continued as before. In this stitch shewn by
Fig. 2 the rows of pile can be put closer together than where three wefts are
used thus making a firmer and more durable fabric and there is also a similar
economy in the manufacture.
"
Referring to Fig. 3 which is a weave or stitch for putting a pile on the underside
of the fabric as well as on the upper side of the same. This is preferably a
two shot stitch like that shewn by Fig. 2 and the cams and order of weaving may
also be the same all that is necessary to alter is to remove the ordinary comb (the
extra comb having previously been removed) for pushing up the lower half of the
pile ends to the surface; the lower half of the pile ends will consequently be left
on the underside of the fabric and by the insertion of the wefts of the succeeding
stitch will be caused to hang straight downwards. This weave or stitch shewn by
Fig. 3 can also be woven on a two shot time loom with the same advantages as
there are with weaving the stitch shewn by Fig. 2. It will be evident also that
without departing from the nature of this part of this invention the double pile
fabric can, by removing or dispensing with the comb or combs as above described,
be woven with three wefts to each row of double pile in any of the well known
three shot stitches, or by a stitch similar to that shewn by Fig. 1, it being
understood that the comb is, or that both combs are, removed from the loom or
thrown out of gear, so that the pile ends project on the underside of the fabric as
well as on the upper side of the same.
As in this double pile fabric only one half of the pile is put on the surface the
other half of the pile being below, the quantity of pile may be made up for both
sides by putting more threads of pile yarn or thicker threads on the bobbins
according to the quality of fabric required as any manufacturer of this piled carpet
will well understand.
I have described these weaves or stitches as beginning to weave with the lower
or back weft first which I find by experiments to be the best though I have before
mentioned they may be varied in the order of weaving with the same results and
any loom tuner will from the foregoing know how to modify this description to suit
the altered order of weaving.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is :-
:-
1. In the manufacture of piled or tufted carpets and fabrics in the looms known
as Moquette or Royal Axminster looms where three wefts are used for each row of
pile in two sheds of the binding warp, the hereindescribed improved order of
weaving, that is to say, the binding warp having been crossed, inserting a back weft

page_text: (number 1) first below the dead warp, then putting the pile ends in the position
lureinbefore indicated between the warps, then inserting an upper weft (number 2)
above the dead warp to bind the pile, then crossing the binding warp and inserting
another weft (number 3) also above the dead warp and finally crossing the binding
warp again to complete the weave or stitch and in readiness for the next stitch
substantially as hereinbefore described with reference to Fig. 1 of the accompanying
drawings.
2. In the manufacture of piled or tufted carpets and fabrics in the looms known
as Moquette or Royal Axminster looms where three wefts are used for each row
of pile in two sheds of the binding warp, inserting the pile ends (in the position
hereinbefore indicated) immediately before one of the upper wefts and binding the
pile with the said upper weft thereby placing the roots of the pile above the back
weft and thus preparing the pile ends for and aiding their being pushed up to the
face of the cloth by the ordinary comb, and dispensing with the extra comb as
herein described.
3. In looms known as Moquette or Royal Axminster looms for the manufacture
of piled or tufted carpets and fabrics the employment, in combination with the
piling or tufting apparatus of heddles and cams so operating the warp threads as to
form with three shoots of weft the improved weave or stitch hereinbefore described
and shewn by Fig. 1 of the accompanying drawings, consisting of one shoot of weft
in one shed of the binding warp above the dead warp alternating with two shoots of
weft in the adjacent sheds of the binding warp one weft above and weft below the
dead warp, said wefts above the dead warp being in a line so as the better to support
the pile as hereinbefore set forth.
4. Piled or tufted fabrics known as Moquette or Royal Axminster woven
according to the improved process and with the improved weave or stitch sub-
stantially as herein before described and illustrated by Fig. 1 of the accompanying
drawings.
5. In the manufacture of piled or tufted carpets and fabrics in the looms known
as Moquette or Royal Axminster looms where two wefts are used for each row of
pile in the same shed of the binding warp, the hereindescribed improved order of
weaving, that is to say, the binding warp having been crossed, inserting a back
weft (number 1) first below the dead warp, then putting the pile ends in position
between the warps, then inserting an upper weft (number 2) above the dead warp
to bind the pile, then crossing the binding warp to complete the weave or stitch and
in readiness for the next stitch, substantially as herein described with reference to
Fig. 2 of the accompanying drawings.
6. In the manufacture of piled or tufted carpets and fabrics in the looms known
as Moquette or Royal Axminster looms where two wefts are used for each row of
pile in the same shed of the binding warp, inserting the pile ends immediately
before the upper weft and binding the pile with the said upper weft thereby
placing the roots of the pile above the back weft and thus preparing the pile ends
for and aiding their being pushed up to the face of the cloth by the ordinary comb,
and dispensing with the extra comb as herein described.
7. In looms known as Moquette or Royal Axminster looms for the manufacture
of piled or tufted carpets and fabrics the employment, in combination with the
piling or tufting apparatus, of heddles and cams so operating the warp threads as
to form with two shoots of weft the improved weave or stitch hereinbefore
described and shewn by Fig. 2 of the accompanying drawings, consisting of two
shoots of weft in the same shed of the binding warp one weft above and one weft
below the dead warp and crossing the binding warp between each pair of wefts,
said warps and wefts binding in the tufts of pile in the manner substantially as
hereinbefore described and shewn by Fig. 2 of the accompanying drawings.
8. Piled or tufted fabrics known as Moquette or Royal Axminster woven
according to the improved weave or stitch substantially as hereinbefore described
and illustrated by Fig. 2 of the accompanying drawings.
9. In the manufacture of piled or tufted carpets and fabrics in the looms known

page_text: as Moquette or Royal Axminster looms where there is a pile on both sides of the
fabric and two wefts are used for each row of double pile in the same shed of the
binding warp, the hereindescribed improved order of weaving that is to say,
the binding warp having been crossed, inserting a back weft (number 1) first below
the dead warp, then putting the pile ends in position between the warps, then
inserting an upper weft (number 2) above the dead warp to bind the pile, then
crossing the binding warp to complete the weave or stitch and in readiness for the
next stitch substantially as herein described with reference to Fig. 3 of the
accompanying drawings.
10. In the manufacture of piled or tufted carpets and fabrics in the looms known
as Moquette or Royal Axminster looms where there is a pile on both sides of the
fabric and two wefts are used for each row of double pile in the same shed of the
binding warp, inserting the pile ends immediately before the second or upper weft
and binding the pile with the said weft but dispensing with both combs so that the
lower halves of the pile ends are left on the under side thus putting pile on both
sides of the fabric as hereinbefore described and illustrated by Fig. 3 of the
accompanying drawings.
11. In looms known as Moquette or Royal Axminster looms for the manufacture
of piled or tufted carpets and fabrics with pile on both sides the employment, in
combination with the piling or tufting apparatus, of heddles and cams so operating
the warp threads as to form with two shoots of weft the improved weave or stitch
hereinbefore described and shewn by Fig. 3 of the accompanying drawings con-
sisting of two shoots of weft in the same shed of the binding warp one weft above
and the other weft below the dead warp and crossing the binding warp between
each pair of wefts, said warps and wefts binding in the tufts of pile in the manner
substantially as hereinbefore described and shewn by Fig. 3 of the accompanying
drawings.
12. Piled or tufted fabrics known as Moquette or Royal Axminster woven with
the pile on both sides according to the improved weave or stitch substantially as.
hereinbefore described and illustrated by Fig. 3 of the accompanying drawings.
13. In the manufacture of piled or tufted carpets and fabrics with pile on both
sides the employment of a loom known as a Moquette-or-Royal-Axminster loom
without any comb or combs for turning up the pile so as to weave the fabric-with
pile on both sides substantially as herein described.
14. Piled or tufted fabrics known as Moquette or Royal Axminster woven with
the pile on both sides by the comb or combs having been removed from or thrown
out of gear in the loom-substantially as herein before-described.
Dated this 13th day of February 1894.
FRANCIS BEST FAWCETT.