IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FABRICS IN LACE MACHINERY
Year: 1865

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Clarke, of Nottingham, Lace Manufacturer,
..
for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FABRICS IN
LACE MACHINERY."
Sealed the 15th September 1865, and dated the 22nd March 1865.
T
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Clarke at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
22nd March 1865.
I, WILLIAM: CLARKE, of Nottingham, Lace Manufacturer, do hereby declare
the nature of the said Invention for." IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE, OF
FABRICS. IN LACE MACHINERY," to be as follows:
My Invention relates, first, to the manufacture in twist lace machinery of
plain or ornamental. fabrics having purled edges obtained from warp: threads
or.warp threads.combined with bobbin. threads; second, to the formation of
spot or other fabric simultaneously with but for a time separate from the body
fabric; third, to the production of fabrics in imitation of sewed or ornamental
muslins and other brocaded and fringed fabrics.
In carrying out the first part of my improvements the plain or ornamental
figures or parts of the fabric are formed longitudinally by the aid of extra
warp threads, sometimes combined with the body, fabric threads which are

page_text: traversed by other extra warp threads, and these other extra warp threads
thereby become warp weft threads, and they also form the purls. Intermediate
weft threads are obtained from bobbin threads which are when desired also
caused to twist with the warp weft threads to produce combined twisted purl
held or laced generally by draw threads in the usual way.
In carrying out the second part of my improvements, I form simultaneously
with the production of lace or other fabric spot or other fabric by the aid of
extra warp threads acting with certain of the bobbin threads, such extra
warp and bobbin threads acting together for a time on one side of but separate
from the ordinary or body fabric, and then being drawn into the position
required on the body fabric, and there tied in by the working of other threads.
In carrying out the third part of my improvements I use longitudinal warp
threads for the ground which I weft with extra warp threads and bobbin
threads, or when desired with bobbin threads or extra warp threads only.
And in the ornamental or figured portions of the fabrics I use extra warp
weft threads, and when desired extra longitudinal warp threads. I also use
additional warp threads for the purpose of frilling or gathering the fabric
into folds or plications, and these warp threads I call "frilling threads."
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said William Clarke in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
21st September 1865.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, WILLIAM
CLARKE, of Nottingham, Lace Manufacturer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-second day of March, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-five, in the twenty-eighth year
of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto
me, the said William Clarke, Her special license that I, the said William
Clarke, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the
said William Clarke, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any
time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thercafter
during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use,
exercise and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland,
the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE
MANUFACTURE OF FABRICS IN LACE MACHINERY," upon the condition (amongst
others) that I, the said William Clarke, my executors or adıministrators, by

page_text: an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals
should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and
in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be
filed in the Great Seal Patent, Office within six. calendar months next and
immediately after the date of the said, Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I,, the said William Clarke, do hereby declare
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be
per,
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement thereof; that is to say:-
My Invention relates, first, to the manufacture in twist lace machinery of
plain or ornamental fabrics having purled edges obtained from warp threads,
or warp threads combined with bobbin threads; second, to the formation of
spot or other fabric simultaneously with, but, for a time, separate from the
body fabric.
In carrying out the first part of my improvements, the plain or ornamental
figures or parts of the fabric are formed longitudinally by the aid of extra
warp threads, sometimes combined with the body fabric threads, which are
traversed by other extra warp threads, and these other extra warp threads
thereby become warp weft threads, and they also form the purls.. Interme-
diate weft threads are obtained from bobbin threads, which are, when desired,
also caused to twist with the warp weft threads to produce combined
twisted purl held or laced generally by draw threads in the usual way.
'd."
In carrying out the second part of my improvements I form simultaneously
with the production of lace or other fabric, spot or other fabric by the aid
of extra warp threads acting with certain of the bobbin threads, such extra
warp and bobbin threads acting together for a time on one side of but separate
from the ordinary or body fabric, and then being drawn into the position
required on the body fabric, and there tied in by the working of other
threads.
But that my improvements may be fully understood by competent workmen,
I will proceed to describe the means for carrying the same into effect. I use
ordinary twist lace machinery with guide bars or other suitable means of
moving the warp threads, as is well understood, and in making fabric with
purled edges, according to the first part of my Invention.
I will describe first the making of a single straight band, say over four
carriages, the two outer carriages being used for draw threads, and the two
centre ones carrying the bobbin weft threads. I then, take nine longitudinal
warp threads, two warp weft threads, and two warp lacing threads, which

page_text: threads are entered into guide bars (or other suitable warp thread conductors),
as follows: The first five threads' (commencing from back combs) are band
threads, next come the two warp weft threads, and next four other bänd
threads, and lastly the two warp lacing threads. The workman must now
place the carriages in the front combs, and the thirteen warp threads on the
left-hand side of the left-hand draw thread carriage, which situation we will
call the dead stop position, and from which all the movements of the thirteen
warp threads will be directed.
1st Motion. Carriages in Front Combs.-Nos. 1, 2, and 8, band threads"
to stand one gait to the right of dead stop position: Nos. 4 and 5 band
threads to stand two gaits ditto. No. 6 warp weft thread to stand one gait
ditto. No. 7 warp weft to stand three gaits ditto. Nos. 8 and 9 bands to
stand one gait ditto. Nos. 10 and 11 bands to stand two gaits ditto. No. 12
warp lacing thread to stand on dead stop position. No. 13 warp lacing thread
to stand four gaits to right of ditto.
o
2nd Motion. Carriages in Back Combs.-Nos. 1 and 2 bands to stand
one gait to right of dead stop position. Nos. 3 and 4 bands to stand two
gaits ditto. No. 5 band to stand three gaits ditto. No. 6 warp weft to stand
four gaits ditto. No: 7 warp weft to stand three gaits ditto. Nos. 8 and 9'
bands to stand one gait ditto. Nos. 10 and 11 bands to stand two gaits ditto.
No. 12 warp lacing thread to stand on dead stop position.
No. 13 warp
lacing thread to stand four gaits to right of ditto.
3rd Motion. Carriages in Front Combs.-Nos. 1, 2, and 8 bands to stand
one gait to right of dead' stop position. Nos. 4 and 5 bands to stand 'two
gaits ditto. No. 6 warp weft thread to stand four gaits ditto. No. 7 warp
weft thread to stand three gaits ditto. Nos. 8 and 9 bands to stand one gait
ditto. Nos. 10 and 11 bands to stand two gaits ditto. No. 12 warp lacing
thread to stand on dead stop position. No. 18 warp lacing thread to stand
three gaits to the right of ditto.
ditto.
4th Motion. Carriages in Back Combs.-Nos. 1 and 2 bands to stand one
gait to right of dead stop position. Nos. 3 and 4 bands to stand two gaits
No. 5 band to stand three gaits ditto. No. 6' warp weft to stand cne
gait ditto. No. 7 warp weft to stand three gaits ditto. Nos. '8 and 9 bands
to stand one gait ditto. Nos. 10 and 11 bands to stand two gaits ditto.
No. 12 warp lacing thread to stand on dead stop position. No. 13 warp
lacing thread to stand four gaits to right of ditto.
'
5th Motion. Carriages in Front Combs.-Nos. 1 and 2 bands to stand one
gait to right of dead stop position. Nos. 3 and 4 bands to stand two gaits

page_text: ditto. No. 5, band to stand three gaits ditto. No. 6 warp. weft to stand:
one gait ditto. No. 7 warp weft to stand three gaits ditto. No. 8 band
to stand one gait ditto. Nos. 9 and 10, bands to stand two gaits ditto..
No. 11 band to stand three gaits ditto. No. 12 warp lacing thread to stand
on dead stop position. No. 13 warp lacing thread to stand four gaits to right,
of ditto.
6th Motion. Carriages in Back Combs.-No. 1 band to stand one gait to
right of dead stop position. Nos. 2 and 3 bands to stand two gaits ditto.
Nos. 4 and 5 bands to stand three gaits ditto. No. 6 warp weft to stand one.
gait ditto. No. 7 warp weft to stand three gaits ditto. No. 8 band to stand
one, gait ditto. Nos. 9 and 10 bands to stand two gaits ditto. No. 11 band
to stand three gaits ditto. No. 12 warp lacing thread to stand on dead stop.
position. No. 18, warp lacing thread to stand four gaits to right of ditto.
7th Motion. Carriages in, Front Combs.-Nos. 1 and 2 bands to stand two
gaits to right of dead stop position. Nos. 3, 4, and 5 bands to stand three,
gaits ditto. No. 6 warp weft to stand one gait ditto. No. 7 warp weft to
stand three gaits ditto. Nos. 8 and 9 bands to stand two gaits ditto. Nos. 10,
and 11 bands to stand three gaits ditto. No. 12 warp lacing thread, to stand
on dend stop position. No. 18 warp-lacing thread to stand four gaits to right
of ditto.
8th Motion. Carriages in Back Combs.-No. 1 band to stand one gait to
right of dead stop position. Nos. 2 and 3. bands to stand two gaits ditto.
Nos. 4 and 5 bands to stand three gaits ditto. No. 6 warp weft to stand.one
gait ditto. No. 7 warp weft to stand on dead stop position. Nos. 8 and 9
bands to stand two gaits to right of ditto. Nos. 10 and 11 bands to stand
three gaits ditto. No. 12. warp lacing thread to stand on dead. stop position.
No. 13 warp lacing thread to stand four gaits to right of ditto.
>
.9th Motion. Carriages in Front Combs.-Nos. 1 and 2 bands to stand
two gaits to right of dead stop position. Nos. 3, 4, and 5 bands to stand
three gaits ditto: No. 6, warp weft to stand one gait ditto. No. 7 warp weft
to stand on dead stop position. Nos. 8 and 9, bands, to stand two gaits to
right of ditto. Nos. 10 and 11 bands to stand three gaits ditto. No. 12 warp
lacing thread to stand one gait ditto. No. 13 warp lacing thread to stand four
gaits ditto..
10th Motion. Carriages in Back Combs.-No. 1 band to stand one gait
to right of dead stop position. Nos. 2 and 3, bands to stand two gaits ditto.
Nos. 4: and :5 bands to stand three gaits, ditto. No. 6 warp weft to stand
one gait ditto. No. 7 warp, weft to stand three gaits ditto. Nos. 8 and 9.
t
1

page_text: bands to stand two gaits ditto. Nos. 10 and 11 bands to stand three gaits ditto.
No. 12 warp lacing thread! to stand on dead stop position. No. 13 warp lacing
thread to stand four gaits to right of ditto:
11th Motion. Carriages in Front Combs. No. 1 band to stand one gait
to right of dead stop position. Nos. 2 and 3 bands to stand two gaits ditto.
Nos. 4 and 5 bands to stand three gaits ditto. No. 6 warp weft to stand one
gait ditto. No. 7 warp weft to stand three gaits ditto. No. 8-band to stand
one gait ditto. Nos. 9 and 10 bands to stand two gaits ditto. No. 11 band
to stand three gaits ditto. No. 12 warp lacing thread to stand on dead stop
position. No. 13 warp lacing thread to stand four gaits to right of ditto..
12th Motion. Carriages in Back Combs.-Nos. 1 and 2 bands to stand one
gait to right of dead stop position. Nos. 3 and 4 bands to stand two gaits
to right of ditto. No. 5 band to stand three gaits ditto. No. 6 warp weft to
stand one gait ditto. No. 7 warp weft to stand three gaits ditto. No. 8 band
to stand one gait ditto. Nos. 9 and 10 bands to stand two gaits ditto..
No. 11 band to stand three gaits ditto. No. 12 warp lacing thread to stand,
on dead stop position. No. 13 warp lacing thread to stand four gaits to
right of ditto.
The above movements will produce a band of weaving with one purl on
each side, and the band threads will be wefted four times during the same,
viz, twice by the warp weft threads; which in these movements will be double
in the sheds, and twice by the bobbin weft threads, which will be single in
the sheds: These bands may be multiplied to any number required, and may
be traversed to any part of a breadth of lace (or other fabric), to suit the design
or taste of the workman.'
I will now describe my mode of producing other ornamental fabric according
to this part of my improvements, by which bands or figures of weaving can
be produced of any required width or shape, according to the design or pattern
required, and as an example I will weft alternately with warp weft, and
bobbin weft over four carriages, such wefting in both cases being single in the
sheds. But as I am about to purl on the sides of this weaving, I must
suppose that I have six carriages, the two outside ones being for the time
being ordinary twisting or fabric carriages, to which the warp lacing threads
attach the purls formed by the warp weft threads, and the four centre
carriages being the bobbin weft carriages, I now require .eighteen warp
threads entered into guide bars (or other suitable thread movers) in the
following order, commencing from the back combs, First come seven longi-
tudinal warp threads, then in' (No. 8 bar) comes the warp weft thread, next

page_text: gnt more rougituumar warp bureaus, and pastry
The whole of these eighteen warp threads are to be
osition, or on the left-hand side of the six carriages.
1st Motion. Carriages in Front C
No. 1 warp thread to stand one gait to right of d
No. 2 warp thread to stand two gaits to right
No. 3 warp thread to stand three gaits to right
No. 4 warp thread to stand four gaits to right
No. 5 warp thread to stand one gait to right
No. 6 warp thread to stand two gaits to right
No. 7 warp thread to stand three gaits to right
No. 8 warp weft to stand five gaits to right
No. 9 warp thread to stand one gait to right
No. 10 warp thread to stand two gaits to right
No. 11 warp thread to stand three gaits to right.
No. 12 warp thread to stand four gaits to right
No. 18 warp thread to stand one gait to right
No. 14 warp thread to stand two gaits to right
No. 15 warp thread to stand three gaits to right
No. 16 warp thread to stand four gaits to right
No. 17 warp lacing thread to stand one gait to rig
No. 18 warp lacing thread to stand six gaits to rig
2nd Motion. Carriages in Bach
No. 1 warp thread to stand two gaits to right of
No. 2 warp thread to stand three gaits to right
No. 3 warp thread to stand four gaits to right
No. 4 warp thread to stand five gaits to 'right
No. 5 warp thread to stand two gaits to right
No. 6 warp'thread to stand three gaits to right
No. 7 warp thread to stand four gaits to right
No. 8 warp weft to stand six gaits to right
No. 9 warp thread to stand two gaits to right
No. 10 warp thread to stand three gaits to right
No. 11 warp thread to stand four gaits to right.
No. 12 warp thread to stand five gaits to right.
No. 13 warp thread to stand one gait to right
No. 14 warp thread to stand two gaits to right

page_text: No. 15 warp thread to stand three gaits t
No. 16 warp thread to stand four gaits to
No. 17 warp lacing thread to stand one ga
No. 18 warp lacing thread to stand six ga
3rd Motion.
Carriages in
No. 1 warp thread to stand two gaits to
No. 2 warp thread to stand three gaits..
No. 3 warp thread to stand four gaits.
No. 4 warp thread to stand five gaits.
No. 5 warp thread to stand three gaits
No. 6 warp thread to stand four gaits
No. 7 warp thread to stand five gaits...
No. 8 warp weft to stand six gaits:
No. 9 warp thread to stand two gaits
No. 10 warp thread to stand three gaits
No. 11 warp thread to stand four gaits.
No. 12 warp thread to stand five gaits
No. 13 warp thread to stand two gaits.
No. 14 warp thread to stand three gaits
No. 15 warp thread to stand four gaits...
No. 16 warp thread to stand five gaits
No. 17 warp lacing thread to stand one g
No. 18 warp lacing thread to stand five g
4th Motion. Carriages in
No. 1 warp thread to stand one gait to r
No. 2 warp thread to stand two gaits
No. 8 warp thread to stand three gaits
No. 4 warp thread to stand four gaits
No. 5 warp thread to stand two gaits
No. 6 warp thread to stand three gaits
No. 7 warp thread to stand four gaits
No. 8 warp weft to stand one gait
No. 9 warp thread to stand two gaits
No. 10 warp thread to stand three gaits
No. 11 warp thread to stand four gaits
No. 12 warp thread to stand five gaits
No. 18 warp thread to stand one gait

page_text: No. 14 warp thread to stand two gaits to
No. 15 warp thread to stand three gaits
No. 16 warp thread to stand four gaits:
No. 17 warp lacing thread to stand one ga
No. 18 warp lacing thread to stand-six ga
...
5th Motion. Carriages in
"
No. 1 warp thread to stand one gait to ri
No. 2 warp thread to stand two gaits
No. 3 warp thread to stand three gaits
No. 4 warp thread to stand four gaits
No. 5 warp thread to stand one gait
No. 6 warp thread to stand two gaits
No. 7 warp thread to stand three gaits
No. 8 warp weft to stand one gait
No. 9 warp thread to stand one gait
No. 10 warp thread to stand two gaits
No. 11 warp thread to stand three gaits
No. 12 warp thread to stand four gaits
No. 18 warp thread to stand one gait
No. 14 warp thread to stand two gaits
No. 15 warp thread to stand three gaits
No. 16 warp thread to stand four gaits.
No. 17 warp lacing thread to stand one g
No. 18 warp lacing thread to stand six ga
6th Motion.- -Carriages i
No. 1 warp thread to stand two gaits to
No. 2 warp thread to stand three gaits:
No. 3 warp thread to stand four gaits
No. 4 warp thread to stand five gaits
No. 5 warp thread to stand two gaits;.
No. 6 warp thread to stand three gaits:
No. 7 warp thread to stand four gaits..
No. 8 warp weft to stand on the dead st
No. 9 warp thread to stand two gaits to
No. 10 warp thread to stand three gaits
No. 11 warp thread to stand four gaits
No. 12 warp thread to stand five gaits

page_text: do
do
do
No. 14 warp thread to stand two gaits
No. 15 warp thread to stand three gaits
No. 16 warp thread to stand four gaits
No. 17 warp lacing thread to stand one gait de
No. 18 warp lacing thread to stand six gaits de
7th Motion. Carriages in Fron
d
d
d
d
d
d
No. 1 warp thread to stand two gaits to right
No. 2 warp thread to stand three gaits
No. 3 warp thread to stand four gaits
No. 4 warp thread to stand five gaits
No. 5 warp thread to stand three gaits
No. 6 warp thread to stand four gaits
No. 7 warp thread to stand five gaits
No. 8 warp weft to stand on the dead stop pos
No. 9 warp thread to stand two gaits to right
No. 10 warp thread to stand three gaits
No. 11 warp thread to stand four gaits.
No. 12 warp thread to stand five gaits
No. 13 warp thread to stand two gaits
No. 14 warp thread to stand three gaits
No. 15 warp thread to stand four gaits.
No. 16 warp thread to stand five gaits
d
d
d
d
d
d
d
No. 17 warp lacing thread to stand two gaits, d
No. 18 warp lacing thread to stand six gaits d
8th. Motion.-Carriages in Bac
:
d
d
d
d
d
d
d
d
No. 1 warp thread to stand one gait to right of
No. 2 warp thread to stand two gaits
No. 3 warp thread to stand three gaits
No. 4 warp thread to stand four gaits
No. 5 warp thread to stand two: gaits
No. 6 warp thread to stand three gaits
No. 7 warp thread to stand four gaits
No. 8 warp weft to stand, five gaits
No. 9 warp thread to stand two gaits
No. 10 warp.thread to stand three, gaits
No. 11 warp thread to stand four gaits
:
d
d

page_text: No. 12 warp thread to stand five gaits to right of dead stop position.
No. 13 warp thread to stand one gait
No. 14 warp thread to stand two gaits
No. 15 warp thread to stand three gaits
No. 16 warp thread to stand four gaits
do...do.
'do.
do. ⠀
7
...do.
..do.-
do:-
do. :
'do.::
do.
No. 17 warp lacing thread to stand one gait do.
No. 18 warp lacing thread to stand six gaits do.
These movements if repeated would produce weaving in straight bands over
the four centre carriages forming purls on each side over the two outer
twisting or ordinary fabric carriages, but to form such weaving into figures
which might require it to be widened or narrowed, the workman would have
to cause the No. 8 warp weft thread to traverse over a greater or lesser number
of carriages than is given in these movements and to provide additional
longitudinal warp threads for each extra carriage to be so employed, viz., four
(as given above, but any other number might be used to each carriage) and
to cause them to be wefted alternately with the bobbin threads, and the warp
weft thread, or to work with the carriage threads in making ordinary lace or
other fabric.
In making breadths of lace or other ornamental fabrics according to this
part of my Invention a workman would have to provide as many longitudinal
warp threads as the. patterns. required, and also as many warp. weft threads,
such keeping their relative positions as given in the above description. And
it will readily be seen that he can at will leave off making such figures of
weaving, and with same warp threads surround them with lace of various
descriptions or any other ornamental work according to the design, and it
will also be clearly seen and understood that whether the figures of weaving
be over two or any greater number of carriages the number of motions to
produce the wider parts will be no greater than is necessary to weave the
narrowest parts as each bobbin thread opposite which such weaving is being
made will weft (alternately with the warp weft threads) the sets of longitudinal
warp threads placed opposite their respective spaces or gaits.
In carrying out the second part of my improvements when making
ornamental lace or other fabric I use extra warp threads in front of the body
fabric threads (or this order may be reversed if desired) and when making
5 detached spotting or other ornamental fabric with these warp threads
simultaneously with such lace or other fabric, I select two or more carriages
to act with the same for the time being, viz., during the process of making
such spotting or other fabric, after which the selected carriages are again used
with the body fabric threads. I need not give any defined movements of

page_text: these extra spotting or other fabric threads because I vary them according
to the nature of the spotting or other fabric required, but it is necessary
to direct the workman that during the formation of such detached spotting
or other fabric the body fabric threads must never. move across the selected
carriages except when the carriages are in the front combs. And as during
the formation of such spotting or other fabric these selected carriages will be
taken away or disconnected from the body fabric the latter threads must
move into other parts of the lace or other fabric still, crossing the selected
carriages, and tying together the body fabric at any motion when the carriages
are, in the front.combs.
In making ornamental lace, or other fabric according to this part of my
improvements, any number of carriages can be selected, in any part of such lace
or ornamental fabric to suit the design or taste of the workman.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Clarke, have hereunto set my hand
and seal, this Ninth day of September, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-five.
WILLIAM CLARKE. (L.S.)