Improvements in or applicable to Sewing Machines.
Year: 1893

page_text: Date of Application, 24th May, 1893-Accepted, 22nd July, 1893
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in or applicable to Sewing Machines.
I EDWARD FRANKENBERG of 12 Newgate Street in the City of London, and
of Hanover in the German Empire Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature
of the said invention and in what manner the same is to be performed to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :--
Channelled presser feet have ere now been used in sewing machines for the
purpose of sewing braid or the like or fabrics but they are capable of limited use
only. In the manufacture of down quilts for instance it has been found desirable
to cover the quilting stitches with braid as otherwise when the quilted articles are
used, the threads shift in the seams and allow the down to rise to the surface of
the fabric. In practice braid is sewn both above and below so as to cover the
seam and completely prevents the penetration of the down.
With the means hitherto known braid could be sewn on to the fabric on one
side at a time only if a machine was used and it required two operations to sew
braid on to the two sides by machine or on the other hand the whole work had to
be done by hand.
To obviate these difficulties is the object of the present invention. In
Figures 3, 4, and 5 of the annexed drawings are shewn needle plates P and P1.
The former generally has an ear o a channel k and a groove which receive the
braid or the like for the under surface of the article to which two braids are to be
attached and safely guide such braids. The second form of needle plate shown in
said figures is adapted for machines with annular shuttles and has only the groove k².
The groove k opens into the throat n (the aperture through which the needle passes)
so that the braid passes such opening. The rear stop edge of the throat n
slightly widened out so as to afford easier passage to the braid.
IS
The presser foot F belonging to either the needle plate P or P¹ has a corre-
sponding groove for guiding the upper braid, see Figures 6 to 8. The lower
braid is wound on a roller r with adjustable pressure spring such roller being
provided underneath the table of the sewing machine see Figures 1 and 2. The
braid is unwound from such roller as the fabric or article is carried along by the
feed motion. When required the presser foot is broadened so as to accomodate
the groove.
The ordinary cloth feed is apt to injure the lower braid and therefore the cloth
feed used according to this invention is constructed as shown at t. This cloth feed
is, if necessary, broadened towards the right hand side and has a groove . In
Figure 8 the channelled needle plate P and the foot F with the two layers of cloth
(sewn together) and the two braids to be attached to the seam top and bottom are
shown. The needle passes through the centre of the two braids.
A presser foot F' similar to the above but with a larger channel is shown in
elevation in Figure 9. This serves for sewing cord upon fabrics of any kind. A
central seam attaches such cords very durably and such seam may be ornamental.
The application of this presser foot will be readily understood from the figure.
On furniture covers, curtains and the like a cord attached by a central seam
often looks unpleasing. 1 therefore provide a presser foot F' shown in side view
in Figure 10, in plan in Figure 11, and elevation in Figure 12. This has an
extension 1. which is curved and slightly bent upwards. The passage for the
needle n¹ is placed at the point of junction of said extension with the body of the
presser foot so that the needle penetrates the cord s, sideways as seen in Figure 12
and consequently the seam is not visible and the work is complete because the
tension in the cord causes the same to rise.
Where the cord serves as an edging, say with curtains for instance it is first sewn

page_text: upon a strip S, which is then folded backwards (Figure 13) then the lining of the
curtain V, is placed under the foot F³ as seen in Figure 14. A strip S, with the
cord sewn on it is placed upon such lining and the fabric wo, which is to form
the face of the curtain is placed on the top so that the edges project slightly above
the cord. Now the fabrics v, and w, are likewise connected by sewing with the
cord and this forms a very durable attachment. In further working the two
fabrics v and w, are folded back and the cord is exactly at the extreme edge of the
curtain or other article as seen in Figure 15. This work could heretofore only be
done by hand by much trouble and even then in a much less perfect manner.
Another very important feature of this presser foot is shown in Figures 16 to 19
which allows of cords of various thicknesses to be attached by the same presser
foot. Instead of the fixed extension 1, the presser foot has an interchangeable
extension guided in a dovetailed upper part of the presser foot F³, and formed
with a slot m² for the passage of a set screw i serving to fix the extension in the
desired position.
Figure 16 shows this arrangement in side elevation. Figure 17 top view.
Figures 18 and 19 are sections of this presser foot F³.
Figure 19 shows an extension l' adapted for a thicker cord.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. In sewing machines for attaching braids cords or the like to quilted articles,
curtains, fabrics and so forth a needle plate P having a channel k and groove k¹ or
the like serving to guide the braid to be attached to the underside of the article
or fabric in combination with a grooved or channelled presser foot F for guiding
the upper braid substantially as shown in Figures 3 and 4 and 6 to 8 and as
described.
2. In a sewing machine for attaching braid, cord or the like and working with
an annular shuttle the needle plate P¹ having a channel k for guiding the braid to
be attached to the under surface as shown in Figure 5 and combined with a
suitable presser foot.
3. The cloth feed t, widened as described and otherwise constructed substantially
as set forth and shown in Figure 3.
4. A presser foot F¹ having its underside channelled and constructed as in
Figure 9.
5. A presser foot F2 having the extension 1 so as to cause the stitch to pass
through the side of the cord as shown in Figures 10 to 12 and Figure 14 and for
the purpose set forth.
6. A presser foot F³ having an extension l'interchangeable and adjustable so as
to allow cords of varying thicknesses to be attached to fabrics as shown in
Figures 16 to 19 and for the purpose set forth.
Dated this 23rd day of May 1893.
BERNHARD DUKES,
226, High Holborn, London, W.C., Agent for the Applicant.