Improvements in Embroidering Machines.
Year: 1893

page_text: Date of Application, 21st Mar., 1893-Accepted, 16th June, 1894
Improvements in Embroidering Machines.
A communication from JEAN BAPTISTE BASTIE and ANTOINE BASTIE, of
23, Rue Denis, Epitalon, St. Etienne (Loire), in the Republic of France.
I, ALFRED JULIUS BOULT of 323 High Holborn in the County of Middlesex,
Chartered Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in
what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described aud
ascertained in and by the following statement:-
The principle of this invention may be explained as follows:-
The frame carrying the fabric is movable both in the vertical and horizontal
directions. For this purpose divisions are made, based upon the division of one
length by other lengths taken in succession, each succeeding length being smaller
than the preceding length. For example, assuming that a length of 8 centimetres
is to be divided into 160 parts of millimetre each, so that any of the points of
division may be precisely determined, in operation, the total length is first divided
into 4 parts so that a "vernier" or scale is obtained having 4 divisions of
2 centimetres each. If this length of 2 centimetres be divided by 5, 5 sections
of 4 millimetres each will be obtained. By dividing each of these sections by 8,
8 divisions of millimetre cach are obtained. By placing the 2nd vernier
successively against the 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th divisions of the 1st vernier; and
then by placing the 3rd vernier (divided by 8) successively against the 1st, 2nd,
3rd, 4th and 5th divisions of the 2nd vernier; if a line be drawn from each of
the 8 points of division of the 3rd vernier, the length of 8 centimetres will be
divided into 160 equal parts of millimetre each. This illustrates the manner in
which the proper positions of the work are precisely determined in this embroidering
machine. Supposing, for example, that an embroidery stitch is to be made at say
36 millimetres from the edge which is 8 centimetres long. The situation of this
stitch will be found in the 2nd of the large divisions, in the 5th of the medium
ones and in the 2nd of the small oues. Therefore the scale of the medium
divisions will have to be brought up in front of the 2nd large division, and the
scale of the small divisions in front of the 5th medium-division; and from the
2nd division of the scale of small divisions the point where the stitch is to
situated may then be ascertained. The scales employed for this purpose in
connection with the machine herein described are constructed in the form of steps
so that each offers a ready point of support. They are respectively operated by a
needle or rod, which, for purposes of division, enters one of the holes provided in
an endless pattern-band which controls the working of the needles for producing
the embroidery. As morcover it is necessary that the frame should be capable of
moving to and fro in all directions, there are provided two double series of divisions,
one corresponding to the vertical and the other to the horizontal movements of the
frame, so that it may be precisely adjusted and readily displaced to the desired
extent in any direction required by the work.
The frame is operated automatically and the manner in which it performs its
functions will be best understood by reference to the accompanying drawings, in
which
Figure 1 is a side view of the complete apparatus with the carriages apart.
Figure 2 is a similar view with the carriages closer together; in these two
figures (1 and 2) the apparatus is shown in a horizontal position whereas its proper
working position is vertical as indicated on a smaller scale at the right hand side
of Figure 7 the right-hand end of Figures 1 and 2 being the lower part of the
Apparatus.

page_text: Figure 4 is a section of the carriage and slide on the line 20-21 of Figure 1.
Figure 5 represents the needles and the perforated paper which controls the
divisions of the mechanism employed in embroidering designs.
Figure 6 is a side view of Figure 5.
Figure 7 is a complete sectional elevation of the embroidering machine including
one of the devices for stretching the material.
Figure 8 is a vertical section of Figure 7, drawn to a larger scale, illustrating
the relative positions of one needle and shuttle.
Figure 9 is an enlarged front elevation of the shuttle and its directly-co-operating
parts.
Figure 9 is a horizontal section showing the same and
Figure 9 a complete front elevation of the same and other co-operating parts
on a reduced scale.
Figure 10 shows the pantograph and the complete “reading” mechanism in
front elevation, and
Figure 10 part of it in vertical section.
Figure 11 is a front view of the reading mechanism showing the apparatus for
punching or perforating the paper and the graduated discs for controlling the
runners arranged above the punches.
Figure 12 is a front view of the copying mechanism.
Figures 12 and 12 designs referred to in the description of Figure 12.
Figure 13 shows the position of the needle at the end of its stroke when
employed to embroider light fabrics.
Figure 14 illustrates the operation of this needle; the two last named
figures (13 and 14) represent in detail the manner of unwinding the thread shown
more generally in Figure 8.
Figures 15 and 16 are enlarged views of the shuttle and other parts of the
mechanism.
The automatic operating or driving mechanism primarily consists of a frame BA
upon which are adapted to move vertically, see Figure 7, two slides or carriages CH
actuated by two eccentrics C* Figures 1 and 2 mounted upon the main or driving
shaft C' of the machine in such a manner that said carriages may either move
closer together, as shown in Figure 2, or further apart, as indicated in Figure 1.
On each side these slides CH are provided with a vertical dove-tail groove in
which other slides CP may travel. These latter slides terminate, at the end
facing the opposite carriage in a plane portion C P* serving as a support to the
abutment piece or arm BU, when this arm during the movement of the carriages
or slides CP towards each other, meets, as indicated in Figure 2, the projection
formed by the large divisions or division bars G D. These large division bars are
fixed one to a flat bar R H and the other to a similar bar R V. Each of the
bars R H and RV is adapted to slide in a dovetail groove provided for the purpose
in one side of the frame BA as shown in Figures 3 and 4, and by the bar RV of
which the vertical movement of the work-carrying frame is effected, the bar RH
being that by which the horizontal movement of the work-carrying frame is
effected.
The devices for respectively imparting the vertical and horizontal motion to the
work-carrying frame are similar therefore the illustration given in Figures 1 and 2
of the device for imparting the horizontal motion and the description herein given
of said device will suffice for both.
Each abutment piece B U is secured to a rod TR and moves horizontally
along with this rod, which is guided and sustained by the plane portion C P*
aforesaid, the two perforated lugs on either side of C P* through which the said
rod T R passes, also assisting in guiding the same. The rods TR at the lower
part of the apparatus terminate each in a stud or head against which as shown at
the right hand end of Figures 1 and 2 and in Figure 4 presses a helical spring
tending to force the rod upwardly in Figs. 1, 2 and 4 while the rods at the upper

page_text: part of the apparatus or left-hand end of Figures 1 and 2 may have springs
weights or equivalent to move them towards the lower parts of Figures 1 and 2.
Upon the carriages C P, which as before described, slide to and fro on the larger
carriages CH, are mounted the pivots carrying the small divisions or sectors PD.
The medium divisions or sectors MD are similarly pivotted to the large
carriage C H or a plate integral therewith. Springs M D* Figures 1 and 2 move
the sectors M D outwards after they have been moved inwards by the means
hereinafter described and these sectors M D and the small divisions or sectors PD
face each other on the stepped or divided sides or edges. An abutment piece or
arm BD is located between each pair of sectors M D, PD, and is adapted to slide
to a limited extent upon the carriage CP and to move a distance slightly exceeding
the total length of all the small divisions. A spring RE retains it, on the medium-
division-side, against a stop-pin whereby its movement in that direction is limited.
Other abutments or stops BF which are stationary on the frame outside the large
slides or carriages CH hold the carriages CP in such a manner that the divisions
are separated from each other at the moment when they have to be operated by
the vertical reds T G, TP and TM. These rods are adapted to slide in lugs or
projections ST of the lower (or as in Figures 1 and 2 right-hand) carriage CH
and in other lags or guides SF secured to the upper end of the frame and they
are provided with projecting pins or rods GO. These pins or rods GO act on the
lever-arms GO* of the sectors MD and PD in such manner that the sectors M D
and PD at the upper part of the apparatus (left hand of Figures 1 and 2) are
moved in one direction and the sectors at the lower part of the apparatus (right
hand of Figures 1 and 2) are moved in an opposite direction, so that while one
series of divisions or sectors presents a projection, the other series presents a
corresponding depression or recess. The large-division abutment pieces BU have
to present themselves simultaneously on the same level, and therefore the bell-
crank levers L G GO* by which they and the rods T R are adjusted, are turned in
the same direction. When the carriages C H occupy. the position indicated in
Figure 1 the rods T G, T P and TM although operated on by springs or equivalent
which tend to move them in the direction indicated by the arrows a* in Figures 1
and 2 are stopped by reason of their connection, through the bell crank levers T G*
TP* and T M* with the rods T GTP and T M' whose right hand ends (upper
ends in Figures 1 and 2) are then against the pins A. I see also Figures 5 and 6 of
which there are three sets, one appertaining or corresponding to each of the
division devices GD, P D, and MD. At that moment the division sectors MD, PD
and abutment pieces B U, are fixed in place by means of the pins * which they
carry on one side, and a vertical bar RL which latter as shown in Figure 4 is
adapted to enter between and engage the said side-pins 6*. As the carriages CH
are then drawn towards each other by their eccentrics C* the whole arrangement
moves until the abutment pieces BU meet the projections of the large division
bars G D. The small slides or carriages CP are then stopped, while the large
ones continue to advance. The abutment pieces BD engaged by the medium
division sectors MD, against the action of springs R E, are moved up to the small
division sectors PD. The whole then forms practically, one connected block which
pushes the bar RH carrying the large division bar G D in one direction or the
other i.e., upwards or downwards, according to the side on which the divisions
project to a more considerable extent. If the work-carrying frame LO, TV, is
to be moved towards the right of Figure 7 it is the upper, or as in Figures 1 and 2
left-hand carriage which effects such movement. The third large division, on the
left of Figures 1 and 2 having moved past the 7 millimetre division-line, it will be
necessary that the divisions on that side project to an equal extent. The divisions
of the opposite side on the contrary must project to a correspondingly reduced
extent. The medium divisions measuring 4 millimetres each and the small ones
millimetre each, 2 medium divisions less 2 small divisions will represent the
distance to which the large divisions are to project. Therefore the third of the
medium and the third of the small divisions will have to be operated in this case.

page_text: If it is desired to retain the position indicated in Figure 1 it will be necessary to
work the first division of the medium and small divisions and the third division of
the large divisions. The moment when the carriages arrive at the end of their
stroke as in Figure 2 the bars RL which have till then retained in place the
respective division devices M DPD and BU move outwards as shown in Figure 3
and thereby release said devices. The rods T M', TP, T G¹ working in conjunction
with these division devices have each been moved in front of the first. needles A'
of their respective series by the lower or as in Figures 1 and 2 right-hand, carriage
through the medium of the lug ST thereof and tappets or collars B M, B P
and BG as indicated in Figure 2. At the same time the lever arrangement LA
(Figures 1 and 5) operated, by a cam (shown in dotted lines in Figure 1) secured
to the main shaft C' by means of the rods R A, raises the needles or rods A 1.
While they are thus raised, the paper or pattern card R P carried along by the
roller RP (Figures 5 and 6) advances one tooth space of the ratchet wheel R. G
(Figure 6) by which it is operated so that a fresh series of holes is presented to
the needles which then come down again and enter the holes thus presented to
them. At that moment the carriages CH commence their outward movement.
The rods T G, T P, T M, under the action of their springs, follow the movement
of the lower, or in Figures 1 and 2 right hand carriage until they are each
stopped by the particular needle which has entered the perforations in the
card R P*. As the carriages complete their outer stroke, the lever arms G O* of
the division devices are brought against the pins GO of the rods T G, TP, TM
and thereby adjust said devices according to which of the needles have entered the
paper RP*. The rods R L then, as in Figure 4, close, and the movement is then
repeated. During this outward movement of the carriages C H the work-carrying
frame remains stationary, and shuttle and needle co-operate to form the stitch. At
the same time a brake of any desired construction applied to the two bars RH, RV,
retains the work-carrying frame firmly and reliably in position.
As shown in Figures 3, 4 and 6 the arrangement represented in Figures 1 and 2
at one side of the frame BA is exactly reproduced on the opposite side so that
there are two identical devices, one connected with the attachment whereby the
work-carrying frame is moved vertically, and the other with the mechanism adapted
to move said frame borizontally. Thus stitches may be made in any position or
direction as required. The better to illustrate this invention the maximum length
to be operated upon by the frame is assumed to be 8 centimetres and the minimum
division millimetre. But it will be obvious that any length other than the one
here given may be employed and divided into any number of minute sections or
graduations, the large, medium and small divisions above referred to of course
varying in number accordingly. Points situated very closely together may be
exactly met, if the mechanism be brought into operation at regular intervals,
whatever the direction in which they are taken and whatever the size of the surface
operated upon. Thus the aggregate number of divisions or total length of the
piece is entirely optional, being limited only by the size of the machine itself.
The mechanism for operating the work-carrying frame is applicable to embroidery
frames of various constructions and the invention is not limited to its application to
the particular frame here described.
The frame which carries the work or material is shown in front elevation in
Figure 7 and a portion of it is shown in vertical section in Figure 8; it comprises
two horizontal tubes L O made preferably of copper or steel, one being arranged
at the top and the other at the bottom. To these tubular rods are connected at
right angles thereto and secured conveniently by means of collars or brackets CO
preferably made of malleable cast iron, the vertical hollow rods or tubes T V. The
length of the horizontal tubes LO which is the length of the frame, and the
distance at which the vertical tubes T V are apart, are proportionate to
the number and width of the pieces of embroidery to be produced on the
machine at one time. It is herein generally assumed that only one piece is
worked, but of course more than one piece as indicated in Figure 7 may be

page_text: *
embroidered in the same way; in fact, any number consistent with the proper
operation of the mechanism. Each of the connecting brackets CO situated at the
upper part of the frame (Figure 7) terminates in an extension carrying at its end
a grooved roller PG adapted to travel along a horizontal rod R K extending from
one end of the machine to the other. This rod may slide between the vertical
guides GV and is suspended by means of pitch-chains PO* passing over
pulleys PO secured to the upper portion of the fixed framing of the machine.
These chains are connected at their opposite ends to another chain R V Figures 1
and 2 which passes over a further roller PO also mounted on the framing, the
chain RV being finally connected to the bar RV as shown in Figures 1 and 2
which imparts the vertical movement to the frame LO, TV. To the lower end
of the bar RV, underneath the frame-adjusting mechanism, is secured a counter-
weight CP which serves to balance the weight of the embroidering frame and its
attachments. The horizontal motion is imparted to the embroidery frame LO, TV,
through the medium of the bell-crank levers XY (Figure 7) pivotted to the fixed
framing of the machine so as to operate both in the same direction, one at the
upper and the other at the lower part of the apparatus. The arms of the bell-
crank levers X Y are of equal length and are connected through the links B M to
the bar RH Figures 1 to 4 of the frame-adjusting mechanism and through the
links BC to the vertical bar R X adapted to engage with lugs or equivalent
provided on the adjacent connecting brackets CO in such manner that the
embroidering frame LO, TV, will always move horizontally along with bar RX
but independently of it in a vertical direction R X having no vertical motion.
This bar RX is guided horizontally both at the upper and lower parts by
rollers GO adapted to roll over fixed and truly planed rails, and the
frame LO, TV, at its lower part is guided in a vertical direction by means
of rods (not shown in the drawings) :secured to the back of the uprights TV
passing through sleeves or bearings supported by the rearmost of the bars BZ
(the left hand one of Figure 8). It will thus be seen that the embroidering frame
is suitably maintained and guided in all directions.
The upper connecting brackets CO securing the tubes LO and TV together
as shewn in Figure 7 are each provided with a support or bearing S intended
to receive a roller RS on which the fabric has previously been wound; it is
unwound therefrom and passed between the retaining pieces PB and the
shuttle-carriers PN of which only one set is shown in Figure 8, but of which
as herein before mentioned there may be any desired number. These parts are
temporarily dismounted to facilitate the placing of the fabric in position. The
fabric is then fixed to a bar RP Figure 7 provided with pins or hooks
throughout its entire length. This bar is attached at each of its ends to the
lower connecting brackets CO. After being fixed in this manner the fabric is
strained in the direction of the height by means of a hand-lever LC fitted with
a pawl engaging in the teeth of a ratchet-wheel RO itself secured on the shaft
of the before mentioned roller R S Figure 7. A stop-pawl or detent (not shown
in the drawings) pivotted to the bearing S or other convenient part maintains
the fabric in tension. In order to keep it stretched in a horizontal direction
buttons, books or equivalent are soldered or otherwise secured at say 3 centimetre
intervals along the vertical tubes TV, and other hooks are thrust through the
fabric say 3 centimetres apart. It only remains to pass a cord alternately
round a button and a hook from end to end and fasten it with a knot when
drawn sufficiently tight. In this manner the fabric is quickly and firmly stretched
and held fast in all directions. The fabrics may be retained taut in the horizontal
direction by spring-controlled nippers placed at say 3 centimetres apart upon the
vertical bars. These vertical bars may slide horizontally, so that they can be
noved closer to or farther away from the fabric to be embroidered on. They are
secured in a suitable position upon the main frame of the machine by means of
set-screws.
When one length has been embroidered, before loosening the fabric and carrying

page_text: it the required distance further, a removable bar may be fixed at the top of the
-embroidered portion, similar to that which retains its lower part. Guides RT
secured to each of the uprights TV enable the fabric to be fixed exactly in the
required position. The removable bar in question with the fabric in a loose
condition is then carried to the place which the other (RP) had previously
occupied. The fresh length of fabric to be embroidered is now stretched in its
turn and in this manner the upper portion of the part already embroidered will
exactly correspond with the lower part which it is now desired to embroider.
Another roller RI carried in the bearings S on the lower connecting brackets CO
serves for rolling up the embroidered fabric.
THE NEEDLE CARRIERS.
The needle-carrier shown in Figure 8 in elevation is preferably a casting in
which notches E C for the reception of the needles are formed at equal
distances of say 4 centimetres apart. Screw-threaded openings TR also
arranged say 4 centimetres apart enable the needles to be secured in position
each by means of a plate or equivalent F and a screw Figures 8, 13, 14.
Besides the recesses for the needles, there are provided in the same direction and
also preferably at 4 centimetres apart retaining pieces P B. The needle-
.carriers A, of which any desired number may be employed in the machine, are
each provided at the top and bottom with recesses with which engage the studs PI
of the levers LX. These levers are provided each with a shoulder EP as shown
in dotted lines in the drawing, corresponding to a plane horizontal portion of the
needle carrier. This shoulder has the shape of an arc of a circle having for its
centre the axis of the shaft BL to which are secured the levers LX, the radius
extending from that axis to the centre of the stud PI. This arrangement enables
perfect rectilinear motion of the needle-carrier to be obtained without slides. The
needle-carrier in being moved alternately backwards and forwards rolls between
the convex portions of the levers LX, while at the same time it is firmly held in
.all directions. The two rocking shafts BL carrying the levers LX are each
provided at one end with a pinion or pitch wheel around which a crossed pitch-chain
is adapted to pass in order to impart motion to the levers in the same direction.
One of these bars is operated by a cam or eccentric secured to the driving shaft of
the machine; none of this last described mechanism is shown in the drawings, this
being of any ordinary construction.
THE SHUTTLE.
Figures 9 94 and 9B are general and comprehensive views of the shuttle which
consists of a pinion preferably of copper solid on one side and recessed on
the other, as shown more clearly in Figure 16 in connection with other
mechanism hereinafter described. In the centre a raised or projecting portion
left which is to serve as a spindle for the spool RN. This spindle or pivot is
provided with an opening for the thread to pass through. A peripheral groove
is provided on the edge whereby the teeth are divided into two equal portions.
This groove of a depth exactly corresponding to that of the teeth is adapted to
retain the shuttle in position in the shuttle-carrier P N by means of a corresponding
web or projection formed on the latter as indicated in dotted lines in Figure 15.
Upon the side at which the shuttle is recessed, are secured the following attachments
or accessory parts, viz.-
At
(1) A hook or beak BE, the point of which just touches the wall or inner face
of the shuttle-carrier P N, close to the groove into which the needle enters.
this part of the pinion two teeth are removed and this portion is more deeply
recessed than the peripheral groove mentioned above, which enables the thread, as
it comes from the needle, to form the loop which it is the object of the beak or
hook BE to catch or intercept so as to protect it from being cut as the shuttle is
revolving.

page_text: (2) A spring-controlled lever N Figure 9 the purpose of which is to press upon
and retain the spool against independent rotation during the rotation of the shuttle,.
in order to prevent the thread from unwinding and becoming entangled. An
abutment or tappet secured to the operating rack C acts on the lever N when the
shuttle is in its position of rest, so as to enable the thread to then, and at that time-
only, unwind freely during the motion of the frame under the tension of the spring-
controlled arm RS which is in frictional contact with the spool. As it is when the
shuttle is at rest that the frame carrying the material is shifted, the thread will be
unwound from the spool under the tension of RS, the object of which is to strain
the thread more or less according to the material embroidered, by its friction.
against the wound thread.
(3) An arm C B preferably bent at its free end to the form of a helix as shown
in Figs. 9 and 94 movable about its pivot or point of attachment for receiving the
thread as it is unwound from the spool RN to conduct it to the central pivot..
This hook or arm, moreover, serves to stop the machine should the thread break or
the supply of thread on the spool be exhausted. While the thread is tight it
occupies the position indicated in full lines in Figure 9 but when it is not it assumes
the position shown in dotted lines in Figure 9. When the shuttle starts its stroke,.
it operates, in passing, the spring-controlled lever LP pivotted to the shuttle-
carrier PN. This movement allows the retaining arm LR to drop. When the
lever LP is released by the hook C B, when the latter is in the dotted position,
said lever under the action of its spring forms an electrical contact with the
insulated rod TI arranged along the bar MP to which the shuttle-carriers are-
attached. A rack C preferably of ebonite, guided in this upright M P, Figs. 7, 9, 94.
and 98, imparts motion to the shuttle. This rack is operated above and below
through the medium of the rod or link BI (Figs. 7 and 9B) by means of the arm
or lever L N secured to a shaft BN extending as shown in Fig. 7 from one end.
of the machine to the other. This rocking shaft derives its motion from a cam CN
(Fig. 7) firmly secured on the main driving shaft C. It will be seen that a circular
rotary shuttle is here employed, permitting the employment of spools carrying great
lengths of thread, whereby a very even and uniform edging or bordering is ensured,
at the same time as the removal of the loops from the hooks is facilitated, as will be
presently described.
AUTOMATIC EDGING OR BORDERING DEVICE (FIG. 8).
The fabric having been stretched in the frame by means of the arrangement
described above, so that it presents its reverse or wrong side to the needle-
carrier PA, and its right side to the shuttle-carrier P N, it is pressed against the
latter, at the moment when the needle enters it, by one of the retaining feet PB
actuated by a spring R secured to an angle-iron bar FC which carries the thread--
adjusting device, and may be called the spool-carrying support. The retaining
or presser-foot P B is arranged to slide in or upon the needle-carrier PA. It
terminates on the side next to the spring in a nut against which abuts the needle
carrier when it is in its position of rest (as indicated in dotted lines in Fig. 8).
which enables the material to be displaced without pressure. Figs. 13 and 14
represent in detail the manner of unwinding the thread shown more generally in
Figure 8.
The hook CT (Figs. 8, 13 and 14) serves for arresting the machine in case of
breakage of the needle-thread or in case of the supply of thread on the spool
supplying the needle having inadvertently been allowed to run out. When the
thread is stretched or tight, the hook C T is retained in the raised position as shown
in full lines in Figs. 8, 13 and 14; when the thread is loose or broken the hook CT
drops on to an insulated copper wire FI mounted on the plate or shield P L as
indicated in dotted lines in Figure 8. This hook CT being connected at its
pivotted end with the metal parts of the machine through the iron plate or bar PE.
supporting it, completes an electrical circuit whereby the machine is instantly

page_text: THE SHUTTLE-CARRYING SUPPORT MP.
This shuttle-carrying support or upright M P shown in Figures 7 and 8 turns
on pivots PI (below) and PS (above) which enables it to be moved away from
the material or fabric so as to facilitate the threading of the shuttles when it so
happens that any one of the shuttlespools has no thread left or in case of a
breakage of the shuttle-thread. It is retained in position during the operation
of the machine by two lever-bolts V L, one at the top, and one at the bottom of
the shuttle-carrying support. These levers are each secured to a tail-piece Q
integral with the shuttle-carrier M P and adapted to come into contact with the
pin G. By respectively raising and lowering the bolts V L, the upright M P is
firmly secured in position. Or it may be entirely removed if necessary, for
example, when the embroidered fabric is to be taken off and replaced by other
material, or when it is desired to use certain predetermined quantities of different
colours in succession. The upright may be then replaced by another, the shuttles
of which are provided with a supply of thread of the colour next to be used, which
may be done much more quickly than by removing the spools one by one and
replacing them by others wound with thread of the desired colour. The spools out
of use are removed and kept in store outside of the machine. This enables the
operation of the machine to be continued practically without interruption or loss of
time. The arrangement, of course, uecessitates a double set of shuttles, shuttle-
carriers, racks and uprights; but the time saved thereby amply compensates the
additional expense. To enable the device to be readily removed and replaced the
upper bearing supporting the pivot or spindle PS has a side opening. This
opening is closed by a bolt VS which need only be raised so as to release the
pivot PS, while the two other bolts V L are in their releasing positions. As the
rack must be removed at the same time, the rod or link BI is provided with a joint
which enables it to be readily disconnected and it is also provided with another
joint or hinge to facilitate the opening or turning of the shuttle-carrier upright.
When the shuttle carrier bar MP is inclined so as to disengage the pivot PS
from its bearing it may readily be removed. A reverse movement will fit it in place
again.
FIXED BARS B Z.-MOVABLE BARS OR ROCKING SHAFTS BD, BN, BL.
The rocking shafts B N, B L, and B D respectively operating the shuttles, needle
carriers and taking-off plate are supported at predetermined distances apart, at each
end of the machine by bearings mounted upon fixed bars BZ extending from one end
of the machine to the other. These latter bars secured at each end to the uprights of
the frames (Fig. 7) are made hollow to increase their rigidity and turned true from
end to end which facilitates the arrangement thereon, at any suitable points or parts
of its length, of the bearings supporting the rocking shafts, and the collars employed
to hold both the spool-carrying uprights FC (Fig. 8) and the shuttle carrying
uprights M P.

page_text: The needles, retaining or presser feet, shuttles, shuttle-carriers, signalling devices,
spools, spool-carriers and all their accessory parts should be repeated in the machine
as many times as is necessary to carry out a given design or number of designs. In
order to facilitate their precise adjustment, the taking-off plates or shields, needle-
carriers, and shuttle-carrying and spool-carrying uprights have perforations, pre-
ferably 4 centimetres apart enabling them to be fixed exactly in their respective
positions and the needle-carrier to be properly adjusted for the reception of the
needles by the grooves. The pitch of the rack is preferably 4 millimetres so that
the shuttle is always in the right position when lisplaced along with the shuttle
carrier. In the same manner the whole of the arrangement (Fig. 8) is reproduced
in the direction of the length of the machine as many times over as it is necessary
to reproduce the same design or number of designs in a given width of fabric. All
these parts in fact correspond in number, to the designs, and the smaller the design,
the oftener can it, of course be repeated in a given space, the number of identical
devices being correspondingly increased. As it would be a long and tedious task
to fix all these parts exactly in their required positions on the rocking shafts when
it is desired to carry out a different design it is necessary that the stationary and
movable bars should be perforated with the holes which the guide- or fixing-pins
enter exactly, say 4 centimetres apart and in exact alignment; the last-named pins
appertaining to the levers which operate the movable parts and the collars carrying
the fixed pieces. This enables them to be rapidly and precisely adjusted in position,
without any hesitation. Although the extent of motion of the frame is limited by
the total surface formed by the large divisions it does not follow that the repro-
duction of designs should be limited to such total length. Designs may be produced
which extend over the whole width of the material and the whole height of the
needle-carriers. Assuming indeed that the mechanism is capable of a total dis-
placement of 50 centimetres both in the horizontal and vertical directions and that
it is desired to execute a design occupying the whole width of a piece of fabric
measuring 150 x 1m 50; it will only be necessary to arrange at a distance
of 50 centimetres apart, three complete sets of needle-carriers, take-off plates and
spool-carrying and shuttle-carrying uprights with their necessary attachments.
Upon the needle-carriers 1 50 high we arrange needles also at 50 centimetres
apart, upon the shuttle-carrying uprights we arrange shuttle-carriers, and shuttles,
and upon the spool-carrying uprights we arrange spool-carriers and spools with
their respective adjusting mechanisms. By making the needles and shuttles, thus
distributed, work in succession, a design can be obtained extending over the whole
surface of the fabric i.e. measuring 1 50 × 1 50. And by shifting the material
carefully by means of the mechanism mentioned above and shown in Fig. 7, these
designs may be reproduced over and over again throughout the whole length of the
material, while the height may be two, three, four or more metres.
PRICKING OR READING MECHANISM (FIGS. 10 AND 11).
This mechanism is an indispensable companion of the herein described automatic
embroidery machine. The mechanism which enables it exactly to perforate the
paper at the points where the needles should pass in accordance with the divisions
of the rules described in the beginning of this Specification consists of three parts,
firstly, the part which takes off a representation of the design, enlarged 5 times its
real size, the length direction and situation of stitch, and transmits these data to the
second part i.e. to the divisions, which in accordance with the principle stated in the
opening paragraph of this Specification, will indicate to the third part which is a
pricking device, the exact points where the holes corresponding to the required
stitches should be made.
Upon a plate pl (Fig. 10) erected vertically on the left of the pricking device
and having a surface equal to that of the largest designs enlarged five times, a
card ca is placed bearing the design enlarged as stated. The direction, and length
B

page_text: of the floating weft-threads are marked by means of a separate design. This card'
is read by means of a point po secured to the end of the long lever arm of a
pantograph pa. The point is driven into the cardboard at each point where the
needle is to make a stitch. The pantograph pa is provided with a handle / so that
it may be operated readily in all directions, and it is counter-balanced by a weight t.
Near this handle within reach of the thumb of the operator's hand which grasps
the said handle is arranged an electrical contact or switch adapted to actuate in
conjunction with a rotating pulley and to throw the pricking device into or out of
gear. This pulley cp driven in any convenient manner is loose upon the end of
driving spindle ra of the pricking apparatus. It is provided on its inner surface
near the circumference, with eight pins arranged at equal distances apart. A
ratchet wheel ro conveniently integral with it is also arranged on that side. On
pressing the electrical switch, the electro-magnet e secured to the frame of the
machine attracts an armature a. When the armature a is attracted by the electro-
magnet e the projection a* which it carries at its end, being thereby brought into
the path of the pins & fixed on the face of the loose pulley cp, the latter will tend
to carry the armature with it in its rotation, and thereby will cause the piece o on
which ais pivotted, to turn on its pivot o*. This piece o whereof the pivot o* is
fixed to the frame of the machine, carries at its lower end a gentle slope y whereon
the small roller a mounted at the end of the pawl u is adapted to rest. The above
mentioned movement of the piece o having displaced the slope y towards the left of
Figure 10, the pawl u urged by the spring acting thereon engages the ratchet
wheel ro which turns with the loose pulley.
Then the crank v, on which the pawl u is pivotted, causes the shaft ra on which
vis rigidly secured, to rotate until the roller a, again comes into contact with the
gentle slope y (which in the meantime has been drawn back to its first position by
a helical spring) and disengages the pawl from the ratchet wheel so that the
shaft ra then remains stationary.
The movement produced by the displacement of the pantograph point is trans-
mitted to the before-described division devices by a pivot secured to the end of its
short lever-arm. This pivot enters two slides; one vertical slide cu and one
horizontal slide ch. The vertical slide is movable in the horizontal direction, and
the horizontal slide in the vertical direction. To each of them is attached a pitch-
chain ch* passing around and secured to a disc d (shown in dotted lines Fig. 11) in
such a manner that it can cause this disc to make a complete revolution. These
pitch-chains are stretched by means of a counterweight c* attached to the end of
another chain cul passing over a pulley mounted upon the same shaft c*
as that
upon which d is secured. Upon the shaft c* are also secured four plates or discs at
a certain distance apart, the first g being divided into four equal parts becoming
narrower from the circumference towards the axis, the divisions being four
millimetres apart (this distance corresponding to that between the pricking-points)
each of these parts constitutes one large division. The second disc-m is also
divided into four sections each of which, however, is divided into five sub-sections,
the division-lines being also four millimetres apart. Each of these sub-divisions
corresponds to one of the medium divisions above referred to. This disc therefore
divides each large division into 5 medium ones. The third disc p is divided into
20 parts each corresponding to one medium division. Each of these 20 parts is
sub-divided into 8 sub-divisions with the division-lines standing 4 millimetres apart.
This disc therefore divides each medium division into 8 parts and each large
division into 40 parts. The fourth disc is divided into 160 teeth of angular shape
each corresponding to one of the small divisions.
On the same shaft or spindle c* which carries these division discs there is
arranged a bell-crank lever 1 m the horizontal arm of which is provided with a slot
in which two runners b and c slide. The runner c which is nearest to the pivot of
the lever is provided with a projection which, when the runner slides inwards abuts
against the disc or plate g appertaining to the large divisions. The other runner b

page_text: is also provided with a projection which encounters in like manner the disc or
plate mappertaining to the medium divisions. Both runners are connected by
links with the two corresponding spring-actuated rods / carrying the stops or
abutments of the pricking points. The rod j corresponding with the small
division disc p strikes directly on said disc without the intermediation of rods,
links or runners such as those employed in connection with the other discs g and m.
The rods and runners during the displacement of the pantograph point are held
back, away from the discs gm and p leaving these free to turn, by means of two
levers and a v*, one end of each of which is provided with a roller which is in
contact with a cam 2 or 3 secured on the shaft ra of the pricking apparatus. One
of these levers (*) operates the two rods appertaining to the medium and large
divisions; the other (a) operates that appertaining to the small divisions. This
latter one is connected by a link bh to the vertical or approximately vertical arm
of the lever Im appertaining to the medium and large divisions. When the small
division disc (p) presents to the pricker the first small division, the runners of the
medium and large division discs must encounter these discs in the corresponding
part of the series. It will be seen from Figure 11 that the runner j abuts against
the first step of the small divisions; if the runners of the medium and of large
divisions also encountered the corresponding edge, one of the two might slip on to
the higher division, which would cause a fault. Or if through the effects of wear
and tear on the edge of the first small division, the runner j were to slip on to the
8th of the next series of divisions which is just above it, the medium and large
division runners must necessarily also encounter in similar manner the higher
series.
"
If the runner slip on to the 8th small division, the lever a v with which it is
connected follows its movement and through the connecting rod bh communicates
the movement to the lever lm; this lever (lm) being lifted the two runners b
and c which it carries respectively encounter the 5th medium and 4th large
divisions.
The object of this arrangement is to prevent the mistakes which would be liable
to occur if the same arrangement were used for the small division device that is
employed for the medium and large division devices. Assuming for example, that
the small division-disc p suddenly passes from the last division of one series to the
first of the next series; it is necessary that it should at the same time traverse one
medium division. In the same way it will have to pass one large division when,
from one series of medium divisions, it is to pass on to the first division of the next
series. This however would not always take place if the self-correcting or self-
adjusting mechanism here employed were dispensed with. On the contrary the
following would then take place: either the rod or runner of the medium
divisions or that of the large or small divisions might remain upon the last division
of one series if the discs were arrested at a delicate point. It would moreover be
necessary that the portion of the runners abutting against the divisions should be
of no thickness practically speaking if it were not to be arrested by the last
division of the preceding series. This inconvenience would, however, occur but
rarely in a machine where the space comprised between the division-lines in the
small divisions is comparatively large. The displacement of the pantograph-point
being more extensive in that case, the difficulty of exactly meeting the required
point would be less. But as, in order to obtain first-class embroidery-work with
sharply defined outlines, it is necessary to reduce the divisions or spaces as much as
possible, errors are more likely to occur. They are usually avoided by the
arrangement just described.
The entire pricking device works as follows;-
When the pricking point of the pantograph has been brought into position on
any point which it is desired to reproduce, the electric contact stud is pressed with
the finger, whereby the machine is set in motion, and when the shaft begins to
rotate the cam 1 liberates the lever f, which influenced by the spring, causes the
bevelled tooth *, which it carries at its free end, to engage with the teeth of the

page_text: disc whereby the position of the small-division disc is fixed and rectified, in such
manner that the steps present themselves centrally to encounter the rod-runner j.
Then cam 2 liberates the lever a v* which actuated by a spring pushes the rod-
runner until it encounters one of the steps of the division-disc p.
Cam 3 in its turn liberates the lever v which allows the advance of the rods h,
and their runners b and c encounter each its corresponding division disc.
Then the abutment pieces el fixed to the other end of the rods and jare in
position above the pricking points of their series, according as the steps of their
respective division-discs shall have arrested the rods respectively at the first, or
second or third, etc. of the divisions.
At this moment cam 4 presses the lever pla which operates the pricking apparatus,
raises the bars pi between which the paper passes, and the particular pricking points
which encounter the stops el perforate holes therein.
The shaft ra continues to rotate, the cams 3 2 and 1 operate their respective
levers va and which bring back their runners, in such manner that they are
liberated, and the rotation of the discs having thus completed a single revolution
the shaft is thrown out of operation automatically, until it is again set in motion.
A spring-cylinder over which the paper passes advances a certain distance at
each revolution of the shaft, so as to present a fresh portion of the paper for
perforation.
By the last described apparatus the runners of the large and medium divisions
nearly always will meet exactly the central point of any given division and
therefore no mistake can occur. The cam 3 which operates the rods of the large
or medium divisions does not allow them to come up before the rod of the small
divisions has completed its stroke.
The pricker or pricking-device situated in Figure 11 on the left of the division
discs gmp comprises a cast frame ba formed by two uprights connected at their
upper parts by a cross-piece. Between these uprights is located a movable frame
comprising two bars pi perforated in as many places as there are perforating points
in the machine. These two bars are only separated by a space sufficient to allow
the paper to pass between them, and the lower bar serves as a matrix for the
pricking points. These points or punches are retained or guided at their opposite
ends, in the vertical direction, by another perforated bar psecured at each end to
the uprights of the frame ba. The movable frame is terminated above the punches
by a solid or imperforated cross-piece t partly covering the punches but enabling
them nevertheless to bear on the runners e'. This cross-piece t is connected to the
before mentioned plates by two uprights mo one on the right and the other on the
left of the punches. The movable frame thus formed is guided by a planed portion
of the uprights of the frame ba and also by an opening provided in the bar p
which guides the pricking points or punches which latter are provided above said
plate pf with pins preventing them from projecting too far beyond the lower plate
through which they pass. A spring secured to each end of the upper cross-piece
and also to the machine frame ba keeps the movable frame down at the bottom of
its slide-way. This frame is raised at the moment when the runners have just been
stopped upon the discs gmp by two double-armed or bell-crank levers pl placed
and operated in the same direction at the upper part of the machine frame. At
each of these ends the movable frame is connected to the levers p l* by a rod or
link secured as shown in Figure 11 to lugs projecting beyond the uprights of the
machine frame ba and to the horizontal arms of the said levers which are connected
together by another link which joins their vertical arms. Another lever arm pla
secured to the pivot of the right-hand lever pl* (as in Fig. 11) transmits to then
the upward movement imparted to it by a cam 4 secured to the operating or driving
shaft ra. All the punches are then raised and carried by the paper passing between
the two lower bars pi with the exception of those upon which the runners el have
stopped. Against these the runners abut and cause the paper to be perforated
exactly at the point or points corresponding with the operation of the pantograph
Upon each edge of the paper a fixed punch n also makes a hole at each stroke and

page_text: into these holes the guide-pins or teeth of the roller by which it is moved along, are
adapted to enter. This roller advances one step at each stroke as the runners
operate, while the pricking or perforating mechanism is at rest.
The paper is supplied from a roller placed behind the machine and it passes
between the two bars pi of the movable frame, then over the roller arranged in
front of this frame and thence, after it is punched upon another roller y* Fig. 11
at the base of the frame. The mechanism described in reference to Fig. 11 is
reproduced on the other side in an absolutely identical manner. The one receives
from the pantograph the vertical motion and the other the horizontal motion. The
accompanying drawings only show a limited number of divisions to facilitate the
comprehension thereof. As in a machine having a large number of divisions, the
division-discs would have to be too large, they are in actual practice mounted upon
different shafts operated successively by multiplying gearing.
The machine shown in Fig. 12 enables one-half of the card only to be perforated,
when it is desired to produce symmetrical designs, say such a one as is shown in
Fig. 12. This enables all the time to be saved which would have been employed
in preparing and reading" the other half. Also when it is desired to reproduce
a non-symmetrical design in the reverse direction, as illustrated in Fig. 12, it is
sufficient to read and prick such a design once to obtain by this perforating machine
Fig. 12, a duplicate set of perforations in the paper enabling the same design to be
reproduced in the opposite direction. Should it be necessary to carry out the same
design simultaneously in several machines the paper necessary for then will also be
readily obtained by means of this copying machine (Fig. 12). This result is
obtained by causing the paper bearing the perforated design to pass between the
needles and a mechanism similar to that operating the divisions of the embroidering
machine, Fig. 6, secured to the left of the punching machine as indicated in
Fig. 12. Between the two uprights mv of this mechanism are secured rods tg tp
and tm upon each of which may slide runners cy, cp cm each provided with a
spring which tends to draw them towards the right of Fig. 12. These springs
should be weaker than those of the movable rods which operate on the runners of
the punching machine Fig. 11 so that they may be readily carried along by the
latter. These runners cy, cp and cm are connected to those (el) of the punching
inachine each by a pitch-chain passing over a pulley pg, pp and pm respectively,
mounted upon a shaft on the left upright m v. The runners e of the punching or
perforating machine when it is at rest, are arrested on the left, in advance of the
first puncher of their series, while those of the copying mechanism are then moved
to the right by their spring in advance of the last needles of the corresponding
series. This arrangement is only admissible for the vertical or horizontal side
when it is to be reversed. It will be understood that, if necessary, the reversal might
take place in both directions at the same time. On the side where the perforation
is to be repeated, the runner will be connected to those of the punching machine by
a rigid rod so that when they are at rest, i.e. stopped in advance of the first
punches of their series, the runners of the copying device are also arrested in
advance of the first needles of the corresponding series. In order to give free
play to the rods and the runners and to meet no other obstacle than that formed by
the copying needles, the pantograph is fixed in such a position as to make each
dividing disc meet the last division of each series, either vertically or horizontally.
The runners e of the perforating device being permanently connected with those
of the copying device by the means just described, they will at all times occupy a
position corresponding to the latter. When they are released and move forward
under the action of the cams 2 and 3 which operate them, they will not be stopped
by the dividing dises, but by the needles which will have entered the perforations
of the paper. The paper will be placed in the copying device in the same
direction in which it was perforated in the main perforating machine. Should the
runners of the latter be attached by means of rigid rods to those of the copying
machine, they will stop upon the same punches which will have made the
perforations presenting themselves to the needles. In the reverse case the opposite

page_text: punches will meet them if it be, for example, the perforation corresponding to the
first punch, the copying runner will stop against the needle or rod which will have
penetrated into that perforation, the moment when the runner of the main
perforating machine will have arrived at the last punch of that series. If on the
contrary it is the perforation corresponding to the last ones presenting themselves,
it will stop upon the first. In the movement illustrated in Fig. 12, the holes made,
correspond to the third large division, the third small division, and the fourth
medium division. Therefore the second punch of the large, the sixth of the small
and the second of the medium divisions will in this case perforate the paper in a
manner corresponding with, but the reverse of the movement illustrated. The
order of the divisions is reversed and therefore the direction of motion given to
the frame by the perforated paper is also opposite to the former direction. To
carry out perforations rapidly and without interruption the switch-plate or disc is
-connected with the punching shaft. The needles are raised by means of bars ra
(Fig. 12), while the perforating machine operates under the action of the levers la
operated by a cam fixed to the driving shaft. While they are thus raised, the
paper is carried along by the pins or teeth of the roller rp the distance of one
tooth space of the ratchet wheel re. The needles re-descend at the moment when
the runners of the punching machine bave again arrived in advance of the first
needles of their series. These reading and copying machines are indispensable
attachments to the before described improved embroidery machine. They enable
the perforated paper necessary for the reproduction or copying the whole or part
of symmetrical or non-symmetrical designs, to be prepared in half the time that
would have been required by an ordinary embroidery machine to carry out the
same work.
Certain fabrics, such as satin, gauze, muslin being very light and delicate are not
capable of being tightly stretched, and therefore they are almost invariably folded
or creased in the embroidering process. To obviate this drawback, mechanism has
been devised for stretching. and unwinding both the shuttle thread and the needle
thread, which enables the lighter fabrics to be embroidered without forming folds
or creases, and in which, besides, the large spools carrying considerable supplies of
thread, and the signalling devices, which come into operation when a thread breaks
or a spool is exhausted, are retained. This arrangement as before stated, merely
applies to light or thin material, while heavier or more resistant fabrics may be
operated upon by other means.
The needle-thread unwinding device Figs. 13 and 14 consists of a piece A' which
carries the spool B¹. It is perforated at C¹ and through this perforation passes a,
preferably iron, rod D₁ which is guided by a stirrup or yoke E¹. To this rod is
secured by means of a pin, a washer F'. This washer is pressed upon by one
end of a spring the other end of which abuts against the yoke E', thereby pressing
it against the part A', while the rod D' is not raised by the bell-crank lever H
This lever carries at the end of its longer arm a roller I. Upon the same pivot
which carries this lever H' is mounted a small and light lever arm J' in which
is arranged a pin and which a short distance beyond that pin or pivot is
provided with an opening K through which passes the thread direct from the
spoul. Its end terminates in a small hook on which may be suspended a weight of
a size suited to the required degree of tension to be imparted to the thread. PA is
the needle-carrier, PB the presser-foot, N' the needle and P L the plate carrying
the glass eyes O¹ and electric contact FI.
The thread, as it is unwound from the spool B' passes through the opening K
of the lever-arm J', over the rounded portion of the piece A' under the washer F¹,
half around the rod D', through the glass eye O' and thence to the needle; the
before described signalling device CT being arranged to be supported by such
thread in the vicinity of the eye O¹.
As the needle enters the material to make a stitch as in Fig. 14 the lever H
under the action of the spiral spring R-and not being retained any longer by the
needle carrier PA with which its roller had till then been in contact-takes up

page_text: the position illustrated in Fig. 14. The washer F' and rod D' not being then
supported by the lever H' tightly press the thread against the part A' so that it
may not slide or slip during the backward movement of the plate or shield P L and
break the shuttle-thread on the wrong side of the material.
As the shorter arm of the lever H in descending meets the pin on lever arm J.
5 it causes this arm also to move downwards until the heel S' strikes the part A¹.
Each time that the shorter lever-arm is thus lowered, it causes a quantity of
thread to be drawn off the spool B'. The needle-carrier P A in its backward
movement, meets the roller I and actuates the lever H' which however cannot
raise the washer F¹ before the plate or shield P L whereby the needle thread
O is drawn off, has reached the termination of its stroke as shown in Fig. 13. In
the meantime the lever arm J has retained the position to which it has been.
moved by the lever H. It will thus be readily understood that when the frame.
upon which the material is stretched performs a movement, the material, which
draws the thread along with it, has only the resistance of the weighted lever
5 arm J to overcome, which, according to requirements, may be made more or
less heavy. Whether therefore the spool is large or small light
influence whatever on the tension of the thread which at all times continues
or heavy, it has no
uniform and even.
This entirely novel mechanism enables perfect embroidery to be produced upon.
the thinnest and lightest of fabrics.
DEVICE FOR UNWINDING AND STRETCHING THE SHuttle-thread
This device is shown in Fig. 15 and 16 which are drawn on an enlarged scale-
being twice the real size. The body of the shuttle is here exactly the same as
described above. The toothed ring as shown in Fig. 15 has a perforation through
which passes the pivot of the double lever OJ. The shorter lever-arm O to which.
is attached a spring L rests with its end upon the spool flange, and prevents the
spool from turping, while the other lever-arm takes up its position behind the
shuttle and carries a ring or eye at its end for the shuttle-thread to pass through.
This lever farm is indicated in dotted lines in Fig. 15. The thread as it is unwound
from the spool passes through the opening F and around the hook C B which
it thus retains in the raised position. This hook C B constitutes the device for
signalling the breakage of a thread or the exhaustion of the supply of thread
on the spool. The thread on issuing from the aperture F, passes behind the
huttle, through the ring or loop on lever J and finally through the eye or
groove M in the needle-plate. As the frame shifts and carries both the shuttle-
thread and needle-thread along with it, the shuttle-thread exercises a drawing
action upon the lever arm J and in so doing applies tension to the spring L,
thereby at the same time raising the shorter lever-arm 0 out of contact with
the spool RN. This spool being therefore free to turn, unwinds the required
quantity of thread, whereupon the lever-arm J under the action of the spring L,.
resumes its initial position and causes the shorter arm 0 to return into contact
with the spool R N so as to prevent it from yielding any more thread for the time.
being.
The length of the thread corresponding with the displacement of the thread
being always supplied by the deflection of the lever-arm J, it will be seen that the
degree of tension of the thread will in all cases be the same, no matter whether the
spool be large or small; it being acted upon by the small spring L to which
the required tension is imparted by means of the pin K around which is wound a
hread attached to the spring. The spool cannot unwind more thread at a time
ban is necessary to make a stitch, so that it is effectively prevented from becoming
ntangled or forming knots calculated to vary its tension. The thread-breaking
ignalling device here employed is the same as in the arrangement previously
escribed. When the thread breaks, the lever or arm C B takes up the position
adicated in dotted lines in Fig. 15 and as the shuttle rotates, it engages, in passing,.

page_text: the lever LP and carries the same along with it. The small arm LR not being
then retained any more by the notch of the lever L P descends; and this lever LP,
as it is drawn downwards by its spring, comes into contact with an insulated
wire T I, as indicated in dotted lines Fig. 15. An electrical circuit thus established
throws the mechanism out of gear and stops the machine. The shuttle so arranged
enables the lightest fabrics to be embroidered while retaining a perfectly smooth
surface without any wrinkles or folds.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion, as communicated to me by my foreign correspondents, and in what manner
the same is to be performed, I declare that what I claim is :-
1. In an embroidering machine a device substantially as described for auto-
matically operating the frame and accessory mechanism.
2. A circular rotary shuttle so constructed that it may receive spools carrying
great lengths or large supplies of thread which in combination with the before
described loop taking device enables accurate edging" work to be performed
substantially as described and illustrated in the accompanying drawings.
"
3. The process of automatic "edging" substantially as described.
4. In an embroidering machine the employment of a series of signalling devices
which in combination with the other mechanisms before described assist in rendering
the embroidering machine automatic avoiding mistakes and loss of time and
facilitating attendance and supervision substantially as described and illustrated in
the accompanying drawings.
5. The combined operation of the uprights shuttle-carriers fixed and movable
bars and other parts each contributing to the proper operation of the embroidering
machine substantially as described.
6. The arrangement for perforating the cardboard paper or equivalent sheets
("reading") substantially as described and illustrated in the accompanying
drawings.
7. The "
copying” mechanism for the symmetrical reproduction of design
substantially as described and illustrated in the accompanying drawings
8. The combination and arrangement of parts constituting the complete em
broidering machine including the modification for embroidering light fabrics th
devices for stretching and unwinding the threads the thread breaking signalling
device the peculiar shape and arrangement of the shuttle substantially as describe
and illustrated in the accompanying drawings.
9. The combination with an embroidering machine of any one or more of the
following elements viz.-the before-described modification for embroidering light
fabrics the devices for stretching and unwinding the threads the thread breaking
signalling device or a shuttle of the before described peculiar shape and arrange
ment all substantially as described and illustrated in the accompanying drawings.
Dated this 21st day of March 1893.
W. P. THOMPSON & BOult,
Of London, Liverpool, Nottingham, and Manchester,
Agents for the Applicant.