AN IMPROVED METHOD OR MANUFACTURE WHICH FACILITATES THE PRODUCTION OF REGULAR FIGURES OR PATTERNS ON DIFFERENT FABRICS, PARTICULARLY VELVETS, VELVET PILE, AND BRUSSELS, WILTON AND TURKEY CARPETS
Year: 1832

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, RICHARD
WHYTOCK, of the City of Edinburgh, in that part of Great Britain called
Scotland, Manufacturer, send greeting.
WHEREAS His most Excellent Majesty King William the Fourth, by
His Letters Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date at
Westminster, the Eighth day of September, in the third year of His reign,
did, for Himself,. His heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the said
Richard Whytock, my exors, admors, and assigns, His especial licence, full
power, sole privilege and authority, that I, the said Richard Whytock, my
exors, adiñors, and assigns, and every of them, and such others as I, the said
Richard Whytock, my exors, adññiors, or assigns, should at any time agree
with (and no others), from time to time and at all times during the term of
fourteen years from the date of the said Letters Patent, should and lawfully
might make, use, exercise, and vend, within England, Wales, and the Town
of Berwick-upon-Tweed, a certain Invention of "AN IMPROVED METHOD OR
MANUFACTURE WHICH FACILITATES THE PRODUCTION OF REGULAR FIGURES OR
PATTERNS ON DIFFERENT FABRICS, PARTICULARLY VELVETS, VELVET PILE, AND
BRUSSELS, WILTON, AND TURKEY CARPETS;" in which said Letters Patent there
is contained a proviso, that if I, the said Robert Whytock, shall not par-
ticularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what
manner the same is to be performed, by any instrument in writing under my
hand and seal, and cause the same to be inrolled in His Majesty's. High
Court of Chancery within six calendar months next and immediately after

page_text: the date of the said Letters Patent, that then the said Letters Patent and
all liberties and advantages. whatsoever thereby granted, shall utterly cease,
determine, and become void, as in and by the same Letters Patent (reference
being thereto had) will more fully and at large appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said
Richard Whytock, do hereby describe and ascertain the nature of my said
Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, by the fol-
lowing description thereof, taken together with reference to the two Sheets of
Drawings hereunto annexed, that is to say:-
My Invention of an improved method or manufacture which facilitates
the production of regular figures or patterns on different fabrics, particularly
velvets, velvet pile, and Brussels, Wilton, and Turkey carpets, consists in an
improved method (herein-after particularly described) of coloring the threads
or yarns which are to be used in weaving such fabrics with a succession of
different colors, applied at different portions of the length of each yarn, accord-
ing to such a peculiarly regulated order of succession of colors as that after the
yarns (so Fendered party-colored) have been suitably arranged in a simple
loom, such as is commonly used for weaving plain cloth without any figured
pattern thereon, and after the said party-colored yarns have been woyen, par-
ticularly into any of the fabrics aforesaid; by the ordinary manipulations of
plain weaving in such a simple loom, the fabric so formed by plain weaving
shall exhibit the appearance of a pattern or design in divers colors, by virtue of
the variegated colours which were previously applied by my said improved
method on the yarns at different portions of the length of each yarn, according
to a suitable and peculiarly regulated order of succession of colors, as aforesaid.
And whereas certain yarns which are intended for weaving patterned fabrics
by plain weaving have been heretofore rendered party-colored by tying up parts
of the hanks or-skains of yarn, in order to preserve certain parts of the yarns
free of color when the other parts are colored by submitting the whole -hanks
or. skains to a dyeing process; and also, by a more recent process, such yarns
have been rendered party-colored by printing the yarns whilst they are in
skains or hanks, and the yarns so rendered party-colored, whether by dyeing or
by printing, are afterwards arranged in the loom so as to give to the fabric
which is woven therein (by plain weaving of the said party-colored and
arranged yarns,) the appearance of certain irregular and ill-defined patterns
in single or party-colours, such as clouded, speckled, motled, marbled, and
spotted patterns, and interrupted striped patterns: I wish it to be understood
that my said improved method or manufacture is founded on the same
principle of previously rendering the yarns party-coloured, and afterwards

page_text: árranging them in the loom so as to produce a fabric with a variegated
pattern by plain weaving of the party-colored arranged yarns. But my
improved method, by virtue of certain mechanical combinations and arrange-
ments, herein after described, for performing the process of rendering the
yarns party-colored with a suitable succession of colors (and after the same are
suitably arranged in the loom, certain precautionary measures, herein after
described, being used in order to keep up the said suitable arrangement
unchanged during the process of plain weaving,) will facilitate the production
of regular figures or patterns, which will correspond with sufficient accuracy to
a previous and intended design, and which regular figures will be repeated
with sufficient accuracy at regular distances along the length of the piece
of the woven fabric, so as to exhibit the same appearance as is usual in
the regularly figured or patterned fabrics which are woven in figured looms,
but which regularity and accuracy of patterns has not been hitherto obtained
by the ordinary mode of dyeing or printing yarns in the hanks or skains: And
also, whereas by a more. modern process, for which a Patent was granted to
Mr. Bennet Woodcroft, by His late Majesty, in the year One thousand eight
hundred and twenty-seven, yarns have been prepared for weaving into figured
fabrics by plain weaving, by printing suitable impressions in divers colours
upon the said yarns after they have been suitably arranged to form the chain
or warp of the intended fabric, and passed through reeds like those of the loom
which is intended to be used for weaving the same, the said impressions being
obtained from engraved metal surfaces or from carved blocks in the manner
practised by calico printers; according to which method of printing warps, the
pattern which will be afterwards exhibited by the fabric woven out of such
printed warps will be the same in respect to its design as that which is
engraved or carved on the surfaces or blocks by which the impressions were
printed on the warp, except inasmuch as the design may be contracted
in length by the gathering up of the warp in the process of weaving:
And whereas also, another Patent was granted to Mr. Louis Schwabe
by His present Majesty, in the year One thousand eight hundred and
thirty-one, for a process of a similar nature to that of Mr. Woodcroft's,
I wish it to be understood that according to my said improved method, I
do not print upon the yarns when they are arranged in a warp in pre-
paration for weaving, nor do I make use of engraved surfaces or carved
blocks with any figured design or pattern thereon which bears the least
resemblance to the figured design or pattern which will be exhibited by
the woven fabric, but with the same mechanical combination and printing
implements which I use for rendering yarns party-colored, as. aforesaid,

page_text: suitably for the production of one kind of regular figures or patterns on:
the woven fabric. I can also render yarns party-colored suitably for the
production of an unlimited variety of different regular figures or patterns, by
only varying the regulated order of succession, whereby I apply the different
colours to the yarns with the said mechanical combination and printing
implements; and according to my said improved method, the warp or chain is;
formed in preparation for weaving after the yarns are render party-colored,
which is also the case in the common plan of dying the yarns in the hanks or
skains tied up, or in printing the yarns in the banks or skains: Whereas, in
Mr. Woodcroft's and Mr. Schwabe's methods, the warp on chain is formed
first, and the printing afterwards performed thereon, and the yarns of their
printed warps, or so many thereof as are to form the patterned or figure part of
the fabric, must retain the same relative positions in respect to each other
when they are in the woven fabrics that they had during the printing, for the
yarns receive their printed impression whilst they are arranged in the same
order side by side, as that which they are to have when arranged in the loom.
This distinction being made, I shall procced to explain my said improved
method or manufacture in all its essential details, and shall, at the conclusion
of this Specification, declare what it is that I claim as my Invention, whereof
the exclusive use is granted to me by the said Letters Patent, during the term
thereof. In order to render the yarns parti-colored by my improved method,
one yarn or thread, or a small number of yarns or threads, must be wound or
coiled around the circumference of a large cylinder or drum, which is mounted
on a horizontal axis in a frame, in the manner of a grindstone, and the circum-
ference of the cylinder being covered with a blanket, such as is used by calico
printers to cover over their tables for block printing, with the addition of an
oil cloth cover to keep the blanket clean. The successive circumvolutions or
coils which the yarn or each of the said yarns makes around the said cylinder
being disposed regularly and closely side by side on the surface of the cylinder,
and if more than one yarn is wound round the cylinder at once, the coils of
one yarn should be continued until the last coil thereof fills up close to the side
of the first coil which was made by another adjoining yarn, so as to cover all
the circumference of the cylinder with the circumvolutions of the yarn or of
the several yarns around the same. The yarn or yarns being thus disposed in
coils around the cylinder, and the ends fastened thereto, the yarn is or yarns
are prepared for receiving the colors, which colors are applied by means of
long narrow sticks or rulers, the edges of which are covered with felt, and are
used as printing surfaces in the manner of calico printing blocks, but without
any carved pattern on the said edges or printing surfaces, that is to say, the

page_text: felt edge of one of the said rules being furnished with its appropriate colour
(from a colour sieve, such as is used by calico printers for block printing) is
applied horizontally across the breadth of the cylinder, parallel to the horizontal
axis thereof, so as to cross over the coils of the yarn or yarns which surround
the cylinder, and an impression being given across the yarns by the printing
surface or edge of the ruler, in the same manner as would be done by calico
printers, it will apply colour to each circumvolution of the yarn or yarns, along
so much of the length thereof as is equal to the breadth of the printing surface
of the ruler; and as the yarns or each yarn makes several circumvolutions
around the cylinder, the color so applied will color as many different places
along the length of each yarn, and those places will be exactly at equal
distances apart along the length of the yarn, videlicet, at distances apart equal
to the circumference of the cylinder. After one impression is thus made on
the yarn or yarns, the cylinder is turned round just as much as will move its
circumference a space equal to the breadth of the impression left by the ruler;
and then if the pattern requires a change of color, another similar ruler
furnished with another suitable color is applied across the yarns, so as to make
another impression thereon, adjoining to the former impression; or, if the
pattern does not require a change of colour, but a repetition of the same colour,
the same ruler which was first used being furnished anew with its own proper
colour, is used to make the second impression instead of a different ruler; after
which the cylinder is again turned round as much as the breadth of the
impression left by the last ruler in preparation for laying another impression,
either with the same ruler which was last used, re-furnished with its own
proper colour, or else with a different ruler furnished with a different color,
according as the pattern requires a change of colour or a continuation of the
same colour, on the next succeeding portion of the length of each yarn; when
repetitions of the same colour are frequently required the colouring may be'
expedited by using a broader ruler, which will print double or trebble the
space of the ruler before mentioned. In this way the colouring of the yarns
proceeds along all parts which require to be coloured by successive impressions
of the different colours, with repetitions of the same colours, or change from
one colour to another, according as the pattern requires, until a complete
series of such impressions has been inade, reaching all round the cylinder; and
which series, by joining up to the first impression, will complete the coloring
of the whole length of the coils of yarn around the cylinder with their required
party-colours succeeding each other in due order of succession, according to
the pattern which they are intended to produce on the woven fabric. When.
one yarn, or one small number of yarns has been thus rendered party-colored,

page_text: it or they must be taken off the cylinder, to be afterwards, when dried,
subjected to the action of steam to fix the colours, and then washed, and when
again dried, to be wound on a bobbin or on bobbins, in preparation for
forming it or them into a warp. And as soon as the cylinder is at liberty
another yarn or another small number of yarns is coiled upon the cylinder,
to be in its or their turn rendered partly-colored by a similar series of
manipulations, and so on until the whole number of yarns which are required.
for the formation of the warp or chain of the intended fabric, or of the
figured or patterned portion thereof are rendered party-colored. And in
applying the colors to each yarn or small number of yarns which are wound
each time round the cylinder, the order of succession of the different
colours is varied as the pattern may require for each yarn or small num-
ber of yarns; and when the whole of the yarns requisite for the warp.
(or for the figured or patterned portion thereof;) are finished and gathered
on the separate bobbins, either the said parts-colored yarns are drawn
off from the bobbins to form the warp in the loom, by degrees, as the yarns
are required for the weaving; or else the yarns are collected from the said
separate bobbins on to the yarn beam of the loom by the usual process called
beaming, as a preparation for weaving; and in so collecting the parti-colored
yarns from off their different bobbins into a warp, whether it be by degrees, as
the weaving of the loom requires, or in order to beam the warp upon the yarn
beam of the loom previous to the weaving, the several parti-colored threads
must be arranged side by side, each in its proper place across the breadth of
the warp, according as each yarn has been previously rendered parti-coloured.
suitably for the place it is required to occupy in the pattern; and owing to the
circumstance of each yarn making several circumvolutions around the cylin-
der, when the colours are applied thereon, as herein-before described, the order
of the succession of the parti-colours on each yarn will be exactly repeated at
intervals along the length of each yarn equal to the circumference of the
cylinder, and those repetitions of the order of succession in the warp will pro-
duce repetitions of the figured pattern in the length of the piece of the fabric
when it is woven; wherefore, the length of the circumference of the cylinder
must be adapted to the length over which the pattern is required to extend,
before a repetition of the pattern commences, allowing for the contraction of
length which results from the gathering up of the warp in the process of
weaving; or else the circumference of the cylinder may be twice or thrice
the length of yarn required to produce that length of the fabric over which the
pattern is required to extend before a repetition commences. The warp being
thus composed of parti-coloured yarns suitably varigated with colors, and

page_text: arranged in suitable order in the warp, according to the intended pattern, the
weaving is to be conducted in the usual manner of what is called plain weaving,
and will produce a fabric with a figured pattern in colours, without any of the
troublesome manipulations which are necessary for what is called. figure
weaving. The fabrics for which my improved mode is most particularly advan-
tageous, are those wherein the surface of the fabric which exhibits the pattern
is composed chiefly by gathering up the warp into loops, by interlaying a wire
during the operation of weaving across the warp in the direction of the shoot
or weft, and which wire may be either drawn out in order to leave loops for the
face of the fabric, as is the case in Brussels carpets, or the wire may be cut out
if it is intended to form a pile for the face of the fabric, and the cut or divided
loops will form that pile, as is the case in velvets, velvet pile, and Wilton car-
pets. And as to Turkey carpets, which are a different description of fabrics
from the others herein-before mentioned, being formed by knotting tufts of
coloured worsted yarn around the yarns of the warp, my improved mode
facilitates the production of regular figures or patterns thereon, by enabling me
to render the skain of yarn which each weaver is to use for forming those
knotted tufts party-coloured, with the different colours succeeding each other
exactly according to the order of succession of colours in which the. weaver
must introduce tufts of different colours. And whereas, according to the
ordinary mode of weaving Turkey carpets, the weaver must have in use as
many different skains or clews of different colours as the varigation in his pat-
tern requires, and must select first a skain or clew of one colour, and then
another, with discretion to suit his pattern; he will, according to my improved
mode, require to use only one skain or clue of yarn, which being rendered
party-colored in due order of succession of colours, will. furnish all the variation
of colours necessary for forming the successive tufts which he will require in
his work, and following each other in due order as they will be wanted; and
as he works up the -skain or clew of parti-coloured yarn by putting in tuft
after tuft, and cutting off the yarn each time; those successive tufts will change.
their colour, according to the intended order of succession of colours which the
pattern requires, without any trouble of selecting colours and changing skains,
with perpetual reference to the pattern, as heretofore, but only occasional.
reference thereto, and without the same liability to mistake in so selecting ;. and
the waste of coloured yarn which is occasioned by such mistakes, and also by
the number of ends remaining from the numbers of skains which must be
used, will be much diminished by rendering the yarns party-coloured according.
to my said improved mode; and likewise, by that mode of party-coloring the
yarns, the joinings of the patches of color which were applied successively

page_text: will indicate the exact places where the yarn is to be cut off as the tufts are
introduced, whereby waste of material in cutting off too long may be avoided,
as well as imperfections in the face of the work by cutting off too short.
'Note. A saving of colouring material may be made in rendering the yarns
for Turkey carpets party-coloured by my improved method, by omitting to
apply any colour to those parts of the yarns which are afterwards to be looped
and knotted around the yarns of the warp, and which parts will therefore only
appear at the back of the fabric, and will consequently require no colour;
thèse omissions can easily be made in their proper places along the party-
"colored yarns by setting out the pattern, so that those parts of the yarns will
be known when they are wound round the cylinder in preparation for the
colouring, during which operation those parts may be passed over without
applying any colour thereon. The places which are so left uncoloured in the
yarns will be extremely useful as indications to the weavers of the places
where the tufts are to loop and knots around the yarns of the warp.
"
:
DESCRIPTION OF THE APPARATUS REPRESENTED IN THE DRAWINGS.
b
Figure 1, Sheet 1, represents the cylinder A, A, in perspective, together
with the rack B, B, containing the bobbins a, a, from which the yarns 6 are
furnished to the cylinder A, A, as fast as they are wanted, when the latter
is turned round in order to wind those yarns around its circumference,
as herein-before mentioned. Figures 7 and 8, Sheet II., also represent the
cylinder; and the same letters of reference are used to denote the same parts
in all the Figures. C, C, E, K, K, L, is the wooden frame for supporting
the axis D of the cylinder A; E, L, are upright standards to support
a horizontal shelf or rest F, which is thus fixed across the width of the
cylinder, and serves to place the rulers by which the colour is to be applied to
the yarns in a truly horizontal position, and so that each ruler will be pre-
sented to the cylinder at the same height thereon. d is a guide screw, which
is mounted horizontally in bearings notched out in each of the upright
standards E, L. The screw d has a pulley e fixed on the extreme end of
it in order to turn it round by means of an endless band or strap fif, from
another pulley g, which is fixed on the extreme end of the axis D of the large
cylinders A, wherefore the screw d will be turned round with a motion
corresponding to that wherewith the cylinder A is turned; G, G, (see also
Figure 2) is a conductor for the yarns, which is fitted on the guide screw d,
so as to be moved gradually along thereby across the width of the cylinder A,"
when the latter is turned round. The rack or frame B, B, Figure 1, contains
as many bobbins a, a, as the number of yarns which it is intended to wind

page_text: around the cylinder A at one time for coloring at one operation. A yarn b,
from each of the several bobbins a, a, is conducted beneath a fixed horizontal
rod or wire h, then over another such rod or wire i, and beneath a third fixed
rod or wire k, which three rods or wires, by opposing a slight friction to the
yarn or yarns when drawn across the rods or wires, will cause the yarn or
yarns to be extended with a proper tension when drawn forwards by the
cylinder A, A. After passing under the third rod or wire k, each of the
several yarns is passed through a distinct eye in a wire guide z, see Figure 2,
which is fixed upon the top cross rail R, to the conductor G, and finally each
of the yarns is passed through a wire loop m, which is fixed in the same top
cross rail R, and projects so far out therefrom as to reach near to the circum-
ference of the cylinder. n is a fixed rest or guide for the tails of the conductor
G, G, to bear against when the screw d is turned round, and as it carries the
conductor G, G, laterally across the width of the cylinder in the manner
before stated, and in so moving it will guide each of the yarns, so that the
successive coils which that yarn makes around the circumference of the
cylinder will fall close to each other side by side, and if this coiling is
continued until the last coil made by one yarn joins up to the first coil made
by the neighbouring yarn, then the whole surface of the cylinder will be
covered with the several yarns. The conductor G, G, is made double, and
fitted upon the screw d near to each end thereof, the two conductors G, G,
being united by two wooden rails R, S, and each part which is so fitted on the
screw is formed in two parts G, p, (see Figures 2, 3, and 4,) which are jointed
together at q, in the manner of a pair of pincers, to grasp the screw d, by the
action of spring r, which is interposed between the handles G, p, of the two
parts in order to urge the handles G, p, apart from each other, and cause the
other parts s, s, of the pincers to grasp the screw d; but nevertheless, by
clasping the two handles G, p, of cach of the conductors together in the
hands, their springs r can be overcome to open the two pincers, and then
both the conductors G, G, become detached from the threads of the screw d,
in order to move the whole back from one end of the screw to the other
without the trouble and delay of turning the screw round backwards after one
set of yarns has been wound round the cylinder in order to prepare for
winding on another set.
Figures 9 and 10, Sheet II., represent the cylinder as it appears when
apart; H, II, of its circumference is folded inwards towards the axis in
order to admit of taking off the yarns from it after they have been rendered
party-colored. The two portions H, H, of the circumference are attached
to the remaining portion of the circumference with hinges in the manner.

page_text: of a pair of folding doors, also a portion I, I, of each of the rims and arms
of the cylinder is attached to their central náves on the axis by binges so
as to admit of folding those portion of the rims and arms down out of their
proper places, and then the two portions H, H, of the circumference, by
dropping in towards the axis, will slacken and set the yarns free upon the
cylinder in order that they may be removed or doffed from off the same, in
like manner as a common yarn reel is doffed when it becomes covered with
hanks of yarn; and in order to admit of so doffing the yarns from the cylinder,
the side K, K, L, of the wooden frame which supports one end of the axis D
is made to turn down, in the manner shewn in Figure 10, about hinges at its
lower part, by which hinges it is attached to one of the ground sills of the
frame, and when the side K, K, L, is placed upright in a proper position to
support the cylinder, as is shewn in Figure 8, it is retained by an oblique
strut M, which is also attached by a hinge at its lower end to the cross sill of
the frame, so that it can be turned down out of the way, in the manner shewn
in Figure 10, when the side K, K, L, of the frame is to be turned down.
Note. Before that side is so turned down, the weight of the cylinder must
be suspended, as shewn in Figure 10, by a tackle of pullies N, applied in an
oblique direction between the arms of the cylinder from a support at the
ceiling of the room, and reaching to the end of the axis D of the cylinder.
The cylinder is framed with two sets of arms upon the two ends of the axis,
and two circular rims on those arms, as shewn in the Drawings, and parts I, I,
of which rims and arms are moveable on hinges, as already stated. The
circumference is composed of boards fixed across the edges of the two rims
parallel to the axis of the cylinder, and the outside circumference, being formed
to a true cylinder, is covered with a printer's blanket strained tight and sewed;
a covering of oiled or varnished cloth is spread evenly over the blanket, and
secured thereto by pins. The yarns are wound round the covering of oiled
cloth in order to receive their color when wound thereon; but the said oiled
cloth cover is unpinned and removed from the cylinder along with the yarns
when they are doffed in order to preserve them from blurring their colours
by handling in doffing.
DESCRIPTION OF THE MANNER OF APPLYING THE PARTY-COLOURS ON THE
YARNS, AND OF DETERMINING THE PROPER ORDER OF SUCCESSION FOR THE
DIFFERENT COLOURS THEREON.
The succession of colours must be determined by means of a design paper
which represents the design or figured pattern intended to be. produced by plain
weaving of the party-coloured yarns. See a specimen of such a design paper,

page_text: Figure 6, Sheet I. It is similar to the design paper used by weavers for.
figured weaving, being ruled with squares, which are numbered. across the top
and down the length, and it must contain the entire figure of the pattern
which it is intended to produce in the fabric, and which pattern is to be
repeated thereon at regular intervals along the length of the piece; and
supposing that the ground whereon the pattern, Figure 6, is to be represented
is to be all of one uniform tint, the whole of the yarns may be dyed with that
color previously to applying the party-colours, the said dye being chosen of
such a nature that it will readily give place to the stronger party-colours which
are to be applied by my improved method. The size of the cylinder A, A,
must be so chosen, that its circumference will be equal to the length of yarn.
which the warp will take up for weaving, from the commencement to the
end of the pattern, where it will join to the preceding and to the succeeding.
repetition of the pattern, taking into consideration the contraction of the length
of the warp which will result from the gathering up of the yarn in weaving,
and which contraction varies very greatly in different kinds of fabrics. What-
ever number of squares the length of the design paper occupies, (for instance.)
72 in Figure 6,) the circumference of the cylinder must. .be divided into a like.
number (of seventy-two equal parts), or the double or the treble of that number.
if the cylinder is large in proportion to the pattern, which is easily done by.
applying à tape, painted with suitable divisions upon it, around the circumference
of the cylinder as at t, t, and fastening it with pins. to the blanket cover. The
design paper should be, laid out in large squares, as the printer has to distin-
guish readily the succession and order of the different colours. It may either
represent a figure, to fill the breadth of the intended fabric, or one which is to
be repeated several times side by side in the breadth, and each square may
either represent a single yarn or a number of yarns, according as the texture of
the fabric is to be fine or coarse. Repetitions of the same figure in the breadth
will admit of several yarns being colored alike at one operation, and the trouble
of afterwards separating these yarns may be avoided by keeping the coils of the
different yarns distinct from each other upon the cylinder. The numbers along
the top border of the design paper, Figure 6, (for instance, from 1 to 42, in
Figure 6,) represents the different sets of yarns in the warp which are to be
rendered party-coloured together by one operation; suppose, for instance, that it
will take six yarns of the warp, side by side, to fill each of the squares across
the breadth of the fabric, that will be six times forty-two, or two hundred and
fifty-two yarns, side by side, in the whole warp to produce the pattern, Figure 6.
In that case six bobbins a, a, Figure 1, must be used, and as many yarns must
be wound together round the oiled cloth covering of the cylinder A, A, by.

page_text: attaching their ends thereto with pins, and then turning the cylinder round by
the hands. The traversing motion which the screw d then gives to the
conductor G will lay each of the six yarns in regular coils, close, side by side,
on the cylinder, so that the succeeding coils of each yarn will just touch one
another. The number of circumvolutions of each yarn which must be thus
wound upon the cylinder will be determined by the number of repetitions of the
pattern required to be made in the whole piece of fabric which is intended to
be woven from one warp; and when the required length of yarns is wound on,
the successive coils maile by each yarn will cover up the space allotted for it
on the breadth of the cylinder so as to join to the space alletted for the
next yarn, whereby the whole surface of the cylinder will be covered with coils,
which being done, the ends of the yarns are cut off and secured to the oilcloth
covering of the cylinder with pins, and then those yarns are ready to receive
the party colours from the printing rulers or sticks in the manner herein-
before described; and it only remains to explain how the proper order
of succession of colors is determined by aid of the design paper, Figure 6,
videlecet The cylinder is turne:l round until the division 1 of the tape
t, t, around its circumference is brought to an index mark, which is made on
any suitable part of the fixed frame for that purpose, and the cylinder
is fastened there by means of a stop x, Figuro 7, which is jointed to the
fixed frame at one end, and the other end is formed with a sharp hooked
point to stick into the wood of the cylinder. This being done, the printer
refers to the design paper, Figure 6, and finding that the three first sets
of yarns at the border of the warp do not require to be party-colored, he
proceeds to the number 4 along the top margin thereof, and finds thereby
that the six yarns which he is going to colour will be the fourth set in the
intended warp, reckoning from the border of the, warp; then proceeding
downward under that number 4, he finds the first colored square in the
pattern is numbered 21, down the margin, and also that the said square 21
is painted green, therefore he knows he is to take a printing ruler furnished
with green colour, and laying that ruler upon the shelf F, he presses it towards
the cylinder and makes the first impression across the yarns upon the cylinder.
He then turns the cylinder round to division 22, and looking to square, number
22 down the margin of his design paper (still under number 4 at top), he finds
that square to be also green, and therefore he knows that he is to make another
impression with the same printing stick after refurnishing it with green colour;
after which he turns the cylinder round to division 23, and by reference to his
design paper he finds it again to indicate another impression of green colour,
and after that another repetition thereof at division 24. These four being

page_text: done, he finds, by referring to his design paper and proceeding downwards (still
under number 4 at top), that no more party-colours are required on the fourth
set of yarns until the 48th square, which is a light blue colour, therefore he turns
the cylinder round forwards as far as its 48th division, and fastening it there,"
makes an impression with a ruler furnished with a light blue colour, which
being done, another reference to his design paper shews him that he must
again turn the cylinder forwards to its 53rd division, and there apply an
impression in dark blue colour, and lastly, that he must again turn the cylinder
forwards to its 58th division, and there' apply a green impression, after which
the said fourth set of yarns then wound on the cylinder will be completed and
rendered party-coloured at every part of their length where the pattern
requires them to be so coloured, unless the cylinder is so large as to require
the pattern to be repeated twice or thrice in going round the cylinder, in
which case he repeats the operation above described twice or thrice over. And
note. If the yarns have not been previously dyed, as hercin-before mentioned,
with an uniform colour proper for the intended ground on which the pattern is
to be represented, then (unless the ground is to be white) the ground colour
must be applied to the yarns by making, successive impressions thereon with a
printing ruler furnished with the said ground color making, such an impression
whenever the cylinder is detained at one of its divisions, where if the number
corresponds to the number of the squares in the pattern paper (beneath
number 4 at top), which squares are there filled with the said ground colour,
videlicet, the squares numbered 1 to 20 in Figure 6, and then the squares
numbered 25 to 47, and 49 to 52, 54 to 57, and 59 to 72. And note.-When
the design paper indicates that impressions of the same colour are to be
repeated in succession, those repetitions may be expedited by using printing
rulers of double or treble the usual breadth of one division on the circum-
ference of the cylinder. The fourth set of yarns (consisting in this instance of
six yarns in number) being now rendered party-colored, the moveable portions
F, F, of the circumference of the cylinder are folded inward, in the manner
represented in Figures 9 and 10, and as before described, in order to slacken
and set the yarns loose thereon, and then the oilcloth cover, with the yarns
upon it, is removed from the circumference of the cylinder which, is immediately
put together again and another clean oilcloth is applied thereon in readiness
for receiving the next set of yarns which are to be rendered party-colored, in
like manner, according to the order of succession of colours which is indicated
by tracing the design paper, Figure 6, from the square numbered 5 at top
downwards through all the squares beneath the same. Each set of party-
coloured yarns which is removed from the cylinder along with the oilcloth

page_text: covering thereof, as before mentioned, is kept extended over two sticks until
the new colours on the yarns become dry, and then the party-coloured yarns
are made up into a large bank or bundle and submitted to steam by the usual
process of steam printing; in order to fix the colors, and the party-coloured yarns
are then washed in water to remove the gum and paste with which the colours
were mixed up; and after being dried the party-coloured yarns are wound off
upon bobbins in readiness for forming them into a warp for the loom. In
forming which warp, each set of party-colored yarns must take their proper
place in the breadth of the warp for which they were originally intended when
they were colored with the succession of colours which is indicated by the
design paper to be the proper succession for the yarns which are to occupy
that place in the pattern. In forming the warp by drawing off the party-
coloured yarns from the said bobbins the warp may either be beamed
on the yarn beam of the loom; or the yarns may proceed at once from
their bobbins to the loom to be drawn off therefrom as fast as the operation
of weaving requires. Note. A more simple guide or conductor for
coiling the yarns on the cylinder is shewn at Figure 11, Sheet I; a sliding
rod r, r, is mounted across the standards L and E, and a nut G on the screw
d, being attached to the sliding rod by a cord, will move the rod endways from
left to right when the cylinder is turned round. The yarns passing through
small glass tubes or eyes fixed on the rod., r, will be guided so as to coil
properly around the cylinder; k, k, is a balance weight, which reacts by a
cord and pulley e, e, to give steadiness to the motion of the rod. Respecting the
weaving of figured fabrics out of yarns which have been rendered party-colored
suitably for that purpose by my. improved method, as herein-before described,
I have only to remark that the loom may be such as is commonly used --for
plain weaving, without any of the apparatus required for figure weaving, and
the manipulations of the weaving may be the same as those for plain weaving
of the like fabrics to those on which it is intended to produce figured
patterns by using party-colored yarns prepared by my improved method,
and not the manipulations of figure weaving; and on this head it. only
remains to explain a precautionary measure which I use during the progress
of the weaving to insure that all the several yarns of the warp shall preserve
their proper relative positions in the direction of their length without
any alteration thereof during the weaving from one end of the piece to
the other, videlicit:-In applying the color to each set of yarns, either the
first or the last of the impressions which is made when the cylinder stands
at its division 1, must, be of such a decided character that its place on every
yarn can always be distinguished with certainty; or a narrow black impression

page_text: may be made across every set of the yarns when the cylinder stands at its
division 1, as a common starting place for all the yarns, and for all the sets of
yarns, wliich decided impression or narrow black impression, in consequence of
the circumvolutions which the yarns make around the cylinder, will be repeated.
at every place..along the length of each yarn...where the repetitions of the
pattern are intended to begin and to end. In short, when the party-colored
yarns are. afterwards formed. into a warp, the said marks will indicate the
junctions of the successive repetitions of the pattern; and if the yarns are-all.
adjusted so that those marks on each yarn will range in a straight line.square.
across the breadth of the warp, then a correct pattern will be formed by the
party-colors of the yarns; and all the precaution that is required during the
progress of the weaving, is to keep all the yarns so. adjusted in length that.
all others of the said marks at every succeeding repetition of the pattern.
shall continue to range in straight lines and square across. To ensure this.
condition, I use a clamp, represented in Figure 5, which is composed of two.
straight rulers W, X, united by screws v, v, which draw the edges of.
the two rulers. W, X, together, and their adjacent edges are covered
with cloth. This clamp is applied across the warp, with one of its rulers above.
the yarns, and the other below them, near to. the place where the said marks.
on the yarns must range in a straight line. square across the warp, and there.
the clamp. is fastened by its screws v, v, so as to hold all the yarn's fast between:
the edges of its two, rulers W, X, in order to confine all the yarns to their
relative positions endways in respect to each other. As the weaving proceeds,
the, clamp, Figure 5, advances along with the yarn, and when the length of the
pattern has been woven, the weaving must be suspended, whilst the screws v, v,
of the clamp are loosened to set it free. on the yarns; and it is then carried.
back along them to the next succeeding marks on the yarns, and if those.
marks do not range in a straight line and square across the warp as they.ought.
to do, those yarns which are too forward must be pulled back to stretch those.
yarns until the marks are made to range, .and then the clamp is to be.again
screwed fast on the yarns to confine them in their true relative positions whilst.
another length of pattern is woven. After which the clamp is again..shifted.
to the next succeeding set of marks, and so on until the weaving of the whole
piece is completed. This method of working with the clamp, Figure.5, during.
the progress of the weaving, is only requisite in case the yarns are drawn off.
at once from the bobbins to form the warp. in the loom as the weaving goes on,
without using a yarn beam in the loom.. But if the warp is formed and
gathered on a yarn beam by a previous operation to the weaving, then the
clamp, Figure 5, must be used, in the manner above described, during. that
.

page_text: operation of beaming; but it will not be afterwards required during the
weaving of the warp which has been so formed from the yarn beam. Note.-
I have, by way of example, stated that the design, Figure 6, contains 72 squares
in length, and that the circumference of the cylinder is to be divided also into
72 parts; but this supposes a pattern of small extent, and a small cylinder; a
large pattern would require a large cylinder; but on a large cylinder a small
pattern might be repeated two, three, or several times. The cylinder which I
have used in rendering yarns party-colored by my said improved method for
a velvet pile carpet are six yards in circumference; I prefer to divide the
circumference of the cylinder into one hundred and forty-four parts, and then
144 successive impressions of the printing rulers will be required to go all
round the circumference. In which case a small pattern of 72 squares in
length, like that in Figure 6, would require to be repeated twice over, in
applying the party-colors to each set of the yarns, after the manner herein-before
described, before the impression would reach all round the circumference of
the cylinder. Note.-The operation herein-before described of rendering the
yarns party-colored by my improved method may be expedited, in case the
pattern is of such a nature that it will admit of being divided or split down by
a central line along the middle of the breadth of the piece into two halves, and
that the pattern on each of those two halves will be precisely similar side by
side, except being the reverse one to the other, as the pattern would be to its
reflection in a looking glass; in such case, twice as many yarns may be
applied at once upon the cylinder as would be applied for a single pattern
in the manner herein-before described, the width of the cylinder being
suitably proportioned; and after the double set of yarns have been
rendered party-colored, one half of them is taken in the operation of warping
and weaving to the left-hand of the centre of the breadth of the warp,
and the other to the right, and in like manner for patterns which are to repeat
three or more times, side by side, in the breadth of the intended fabric. For
instance, if the fabric which it is to be woven to exhibit the pattern, Figure 6,
were made double the width herein-before supposed, in order to contain
two figured patterns, such as Figure 6, but reversed to each other, and dis-
posed side by side in the breadth of the fabric, then the warp for such a
fabric would contain 84 sets of yarns of 6 each, or 504 yarns in the whole
warp. In this case a double set, containing 12 yarns, may be wound
on the cylinder at once, in order that all those 12 yarns may be coloured
together; and after being so coloured and finished ready for forming into a
warp, the 12 yarns are to be separated into 2 sets of 6 yarns each, and.
one of those sets is used for the right-hand half breadth of the piece, and

page_text: the other set for the left-hand half breadth thereof. But whether the whole
pattern be repeated in reverse or not, any repetition side by side which con-
tinues through all the length of the pattern will afford the opportunity
of colouring an increased number of threads at once. And whereas the
colouring will, in all cases, be better performed when the coils of yarns
around the circumference of the cylinder are laid close side by side, without
either crowding each other or leaving intervals between the yarns, the
pulley e on the screw d, should be properly adapted to the size of the
large pulley 'g on the end of the axis. D of the cylinder A, according to
the fineness of the threads of the screw, in order that the screw may be
turned with such a speed in respect to the speed of the cylinder that the screw
will carry the conductor G across the width of the cylinder, or any portion
thereof, at a proper rate of progress to lay the successive convolutions of the
yarns properly side by side around the circumference of the cylinder; therefore,
when a coarser sort of yarns are to be wound on, a smaller pulley must be
applied on the screw to turn it quicker and give the conductor a more rapid
progression, and vice versa; when a finer sort of yarns are to be wound' on,
a larger pulley must be fixed on the end of the screw, to turn it slower. And
whereas the number of yarns to be wound about the cylinder at once varies, for
the reasons herein-before stated, and also the number of convolutions of each
yarn around the cylinder varies according to the size of the cylinder and to the
length of the yarns to be wound round it, it is necessary to adapt the machinery
to those changes, for which purpose the wire eyes Z, which are stuck into the
two wooden rails R, S, of the conductor G, G, and the loops m, m; which guide
the yarns, may be very numerous in a row, and the yarns may be con-
ducted through those eyes which suit best. In order to preserve as much as
possible the form and regularity of the several coils made by each yarn and set
of yarns around the cylinder; after they are taken off therefrom, and during the
processes of steaming and washing them, as aforesaid, it is proper to pass a
small cord of worsted amongst the convolutions under and over them alter-
nately, tying its ends together: This interlacing of a cord across the several
coils may be applied at two different places of each set of coils before they are
taken off from the cylinder, and it will facilitate the winding afterwards upon
bobbins, as it will preserve the yarns from entanglement. In rendering yarns
party-colored for Turkey carpets, they must be colored by the same method
as herein-before described, but with the order of succession of colours according
to the horizontal rows of squares across the design paper, instead of according
to the perpendicular rows of squares thereon, because the figures or patterns
R

page_text: on Turkey carpets are not formed as in the other fabrics herein-before men-
tioned, by gathering up the warp threads, but by looping and knotting in
detached tufts upon the ground warp. In the ordinary mode of fabricating
such carpets, different, individuals are generally employed on one piece of
carpet, each of them having certain portions allotted to him, and which he is
to fill with tufts. In using the parti-colored yarns for these tufts, the portions,
given to each of the workers must be colored, so as to correspond to the part
of the figure he is to work; or, if the yarn has been colored for a very extensive
pattern, each long yarn might be divided into equal portions, and distributed
amongst the number of hands to be employed, whereby there would be less
risk of mistakes than in the ordinary method. The tuft with which one person
would leave off would answer to the commencing color of the next portion.
Having now described the manner of practising my said improved method
which facilitates the production of regular figures or patterns on different
fabrics, I, the said Richard Whytock, do hereby declare that what I claim as
an improvement upon the previous process of skein dying and skein printing,
and whereof the exclusive use is granted to. me by the aforesaid Letters
Patent, is the improved method herein-before. described of rendering yarns.
party-colored one at a time, or a small number at a time, previously to arrang-
ing or forming such yarns into a warp or chain, the said party-colors being.
applied in such order of succession along the length of each yarn or set of
yarns which are colored together, as is suitable for the production of regular
figures or patterns in different fabrics, particularly those herein-before men-
tioned, when such party-colored yarns are suitably arranged in a warp for
weaving them into such fabrics without any of the apparatus peculiar to figure
weaving, and which said method consists (as herein-before set forth) in dis-
posing of a single yarn, or a small number of yarns, in regular and repeated
coils of each yarn around a cylinder, as herein-before described, and then
applying divers colors to the yarn or yarns so coiled around a cylinder by
means of the simple printing implements herein-before described, which do
not require either engraving or carving on their printing surface, but only that
the successive impressions shall be made according to that order of succession
of colors which is indicated by the pattern or design paper, as is herein-before
fully explained; and further, my improved method which facilitates the
production of regular figures or patterns on Turkey carpets is to render the
yarn for forming the tufts thereof party-colored, as herein-before described,
with such order of succession of colours along the length of each yarn as is
suitable for the order in which tufts, of different colors are required to be

page_text: introduced by each weaver in order to produce the regular figure or pattern,
for which the yarns have been previously party-colored, in a suitable manner,
by the method herein-before described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Richard Whytock, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Fifth day of March, One thousand eight
hundred and thirty-three.
Inrolled the Eighth day of March, in the year of our Lord One thousand
eight hundred and thirty-three.