Improved Machinery for Sewing Boots and Shoes during the Lasting Operation.
Year: 1897

page_text: Date of Application, 7th Sept., 1897
Complete Specification Left, 7th June, 1898- Accepted, 23rd July, 1898
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improved Machinery for Sewing Boots and Shoes during the
Lasting Operation.
We, JOHN KEATS, of Bagnall, near Stoke-on-Trent, Staffordshire, Mechanical
Engineer, and WILLIAM STEPHENS CLARK, of Street, Somerset, Boot Manufacturer,
do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to a novel mode or process of boot and shoe manufacture,
and special machinery therefor.
In the Specification of a Patent applied for on the 14th day of July 1897,
No. 16720, we describe a mode of preparing soles and insoles with a rib or raised
portion at or near the margin or edge of the sole, this rib to serve as a guide in
lasting, and to receive the line of stitches intended to hold sole and upper together,
and, in some cases, to form a flat joint or seam, by securing the two butt edges
of leather together.
Against this rib, the edge of the upper was to be strained or lasted over the
last, and laid in convenient form for the sewing, which was passed through the rib
and the upper.
This mode of manufacturing boots and shoes possesses advantages irrespective
of the means used for uniting the parts together.
We have now designed a machine specially applicable for straining or (ns
termed by the boot trade) lasting, and then sewing the uppers to our ribbed soles,
such machine having, beside the main characteristics of a boot sewing machine,
means whereby all the usual movements made when lasting by hand are combined
with new aids to make good sewed seams mechanically.
Thus, we employ a curved needle and awl, the awl to pierce the holes for the
needle, to supply stitching thread, and the awl also to feed forward the
work.
The work carried by a last is so presented to the lasting and sewing operation,
that the awl will strike the inner side of rib of the sole, and then feed the work
forward, bringing the pierced hole opposite the eye-pointed needle, to receive the
needle thread.
The locking or second thread is inserted in the loop of the needle thread, by
a rotary shuttle, which is mounted with its axis in an oblique position.
An interval of time during the rotation of the main shaft, and between the
retreat of the needle and the next movement of the awl, is provided for, to allow
the stretch to be taken out of the upper where the stitch is to be formed, and by
which means perfect lasted boots will be produced.
The lasting instruments or grippers work automatically, and after pulling up
the edge of the upper, they retain their hold on the said upper, until the awl has
pierced the rib and upper sufficiently to hold it (as lasted) in position. While
the feed is taking place, the grippers are released. One of the gripping jaws
carries a presser foot for holding down. the ribbed insole onto the last, and to
ensure the right path of the awl.

page_text: A tension apparatus is provided, for giving off slack, for the passage of the
shuttle through the loop of the needle thread, and for tightening the stitch.
The movements of all the acting parts of the machine are derived from a
horizontal cam shaft carried by standards on the bed plate.
To provide for the compound movements of the awl, the arm to which it is
attached is carried by a rocking guide, which is fulcrummed on a standard, and
receives motion from a cam on the cam shaft, for effecting the piercing
action.
This arm is free to slide laterally in its guide, which is drilled to receive
two guide pins projecting laterally from the arm. These pins or stops are, by
means of springs, held against the prongs of a forked lever, which rocks,
and carries a bowle which is acted upon by a face cam. As the cam rotates,
the forked lever is rocked, and the arm carrying the awl is caused to advance
the work the length of a stitch, the amount of motion of the forked lever being
determined by the adjusting nut on the end of the upper guide pin.
The needle arm is fulcrummed on the standard that carries the awl guide, and its
centre is in the same axial line, and it is worked by a rock shaft which receives
motion from a cam on the cam shaft.
The lasting grippers are carried on a rock lever fulcrummed on a standard, and
fitted with a bowl which runs in a groove cut in the face cam on the cam shaft.
One of the gripping jaws is pivotted to its lover, and has an extension upwards,
this extended end being a tempered spring; and this spring, at its upper end, is
acted upon by a second rock lever, this rocking lever being curved at its end
(where it acts on the spring end of gripper), to allow of an elastic grip being made
on the upper. When the operation of lasting is going on, this lever is actuated
by a tappet on the same cam that rocks the grippers; but its movement
necessarily varying according to the thickness of materials being sewn, does
not allow of a cam-groove action, and as its release must be very quickly effected,
the upper or spring part of jaws aids the rapid release of the grippers.
The supporting arm which carries the shuttle is preferably made in a swinging
bracket form, and the horizontally mounted shaft is geared at its further end to
the main driving shaft of the machine, and, at its end where action is given to the
shuttle, by a second mitred gear wheel, which moves a plate with its axis nearly
vertical. This plate, on its under side, carries a driver which is peculiarly curved,
so that during its rotation, when driving the shuttle, its sides shall not come in
contact with the loop of thread while passing over the body of the shuttle.
The thread tightening and slack taking-up arrangement consists of an arm
mounted on a rocking shaft, and, at its upper end, is provided with an eye through
which the needle thread passes. A second arm on this rock shaft is coupled by a
link to a fulcrummed arm which carries a bowle which enters a groove on the face
cam specially provided on the main shaft. As, therefore, this shaft rotates, an
alternate movement is effected, by which the needle thread is tightened, or slack
given off, as required.
The last, with the upper sole or innersole, is held up to or against a fixed guide
placed or adjusted to suit the different thicknesses of materials to be sewn, and
in relation to the position of the lasting grippers. By this means, little skill is
required on the part of the operator to produce good work, the action of the
grippers or lasting instruments, combined with the piercing awl (when the upper
last and insole are presented to them), being so timed that, in the rotation
of the main shaft and the working of the machine, while the work is held
in place, the operator's duty differs little from that attendant on ordinary
boot-sewing machine operations, where no means of lasting or material straining
is provided.

page_text: Improved Machinery for Sewing Boots and Shoes during the
Lasting Operation.
We, JOHN KEATS, of Bagnall, near Stoke-on-Trent, Staffordshire, Mechanical
Engineer, and WILLIAM STEPHENS CLARK, of Street, Somerset, Boot Manufacturer,
do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same
is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement :-
This invention relates to a novel arrangement of sewing machine for sewing the
uppers to the soles or insoles of boots and shoes.
In a Patent granted to us, and bearing date the 14th day of July 1897, No.
16720, we described a mode of preparing soles and insoles with a rib or raised
portion at the edge or margin of the sole for receiving the line of stitches.
Against this rib, the edge of the upper was to be laid, and the stitches were
passed through the rib and the upper.
It is claimed for this mode of manufacturing boots and shoes, that it possesses
advantages irrespective of the means used for uniting the parts together.
We have now designed a machine specially applicable for straining, or (as termed
in the boot trade) lasting the uppers, and sewing them to our ribbed soles, by one
combined operation, such machine having, beside the main characteristics of a boot
sewing machine, means whereby all the usual movements are made when lasting
by hand.
Thus, we employ a curved needle and awl, the awl to pierce the holes for the
sewing needle, and also to feed forward the work.
The work carried by a last is so presented to the machine for the lasting and
sewing operations, that the awl will strike the inner side of the rib of the sole, pass
through the edge of the upper, while held at tension by a pair of grippers, and, on
the hold of the grippers relaxing, feed the work forward, bringing the pierced hole
opposite the eye-pointed needle, to receive the needle thread.
The locking or second thread is inserted in the loop of the needle thread, by a
rotary shuttle, which is mounted with its axis in an oblique position.
An interval of time during the rotation of the main shaft between the retreat of
the needle and the next movement of the awl, is provided for, to allow the stretch to
be taken out of the upper, where the stitch is to be formed; by which means per-
fect lasted boots will be produced.
.
The lasting instruments or grippers work automatically, and after pulling up the
edge of the upper to the adjustably determined amount, they retain their hold on
the said upper, until the awl has pierced the rib and upper sufficiently to hold the
upper (as lasted) in position during the feeding motion.
In the accompanying drawings,
Fig. 1 is a side elevation of the machine complete ;
Fig. 2 is a front view, and
Fig. 3 a plan view of the same.
Fig. 4 shows, in side elevation, the mechanism for operating the awl, detached
from the machine.
Fig. 5 is an elevation, taken at right angles to Fig. 4, and
Fig. 6 is a plan view of the same.
Figs. 7, 8, 9, are similar views of the mechanism for operating the needle.
Figs. 10, 11, 12 are like views of the gripper mechanism.
Figs. 13, 14, 15 shew the mechanism (detached from the machine) for supporting
and working the shuttle; and

page_text: Fig. 1b is an enlarged view of the shuttle and its univer.
Fig. 17 is a front view,
Fig. 18 a side view, and
Fig. 19 a plan view, of the take-up and tension mechanism.
Fig. 20 is a diagram illustrating the sewing of the upper to a leather ribbed sole.
Figs. 21 and 22 illustrate the sewing of the upper to ribbed felt and jute soles.
Fig. 28 illustrates the mode of producing what is known as flat sewing by the
improved machine.
A, Figs. 1, 2, 3, is the base plate, carrying standards A, for supporting the
bearings of the cam shaft B. Projecting upwards from the bed plate is a
standard A2, to the upper part of which is pivotted a rocking guide C', which
encloses the arm of an awl C.
This rocking guide is connected below its fulcrum, through a short link, to a
rod C, which, at its other end, connects through a second link with a rocking
arm C³ fulcrummed on the base plate, and carrying a bowle which enters the groove
of a face cam C on the cam shaft B.
The rod C is supported by, and is free to slide in, guides standing up from the
bed plate.
It is to provide for the compound movements of the awl, that the arm to which
it is attached is enclosed in, and carried by, the rocking guide C', which is drilled
at one side to receive two guide pins c c projecting laterally from the arm.
These pins are, by means of springs c¹ c¹, coiled around them, held against the
prongs of a forked rock lever C³ fulcrummed on the side of the standard A².
The rear end of this forked lever carries a bowle which bears upon the back of
the cam C, and is caused to rock by means of a tappet c² coming into contact
with the bowle, by which means the awl is caused to feed forward the work.
The length of the stitch is regulated by means of an adjusting nut c³ on the
upper guide pin c, which is threaded to receive it.
D D¹ are the lasting grippers, the arm of the gripper D being fulcrummed on
the standard A³, and the gripper D¹ being fulcrummed an the arm of the gripper D.
This arm D is operated through a bowle which runs in a groove 1 cut in the face
cam De on the cam shaft B.
To regulate the action of this cam on the lever D, so as to provide for the
imparting of a greater or lesser strain in the lasting of the upper, the following
contrivance is employed.
Upon the free end of the arm D is mounted a block D2, capable of sliding along
the arm, and being fixed in position by a set screw. This block D2 carries a
bowle D³, which enters a groove formed in a horizontal arm D made fast to a
vertically sliding bar D working in a slotted guide formed on the top of the
standard A. A projection from the side of the arm D carries the bowle which,
working in the cam De, imparts the requisite rocking motion to the lever D, the
amount of which motion is determined by the position of the adjusted block D
upon its lever.
The groove
of the cam De is so formed as (in the rotation of the cain shaft) to
depress the grippers to the proper position for taking hold of the work and to lift
them, while closed, so as to put the requisite lasting strain upon upper
immediately before it pierced by the awl.
the
It will now be understood that, by adjusting the position of the block D2 on the
lever D nearer to, or further from, its fulcrum, a simple means is provided for giving
to the lasting grippers a longer or shorter stroke as may be desired, so that materials
more or less elastic can be equally well lasted. The arm of the gripper D is fitted
with an elastic presser foot d, which, beside holding the sole to the last, serves
to stop the operator from pushing up the work too high.
The gripping jaw D¹ has an elastic extension upwards, the extremity of which
is acted upon by a rock lever D7 mounted on the fulcrum pin which carries the arm
of the gripper D.
This rock lever carries a bowle which runs in a second groove 2 of the face

page_text: cam Do, such groove being so shaped in relation to the groove 1, that when the
grippers are raised, the jaw D¹ will continue to bite, until the awl has pierced the
upper, and taken up the strain of the grippers.
The jaw D will then be released from its grip, to permit of the feed of the work
taking place. When this is done, the action of the cam grooves 1, 2, on their
respective bowles, will cause a repetition of the descent of the grippers to their
acting position, when they will take hold of the upper, as before.
That part of the lever D' which bears on the elastic extension of the gripper, is
curved to ensure its pressing fairly on the elastic end of the gripping jaw D¹, and
putting an elastic pressure on the upper.
The timing of the action of the cam grooves 1, 2, it will be seen, is such that the
grip and release of the jaws is quickly effected, and it is to provide for the varying
thicknesses of the upper, that the gripper is made elastic.
The eye-pointed needle E (see Figs. 7, 8, 9) is carried by an arm E¹ fulcrummed
on the boss of the awl guide C'. This arm E¹ is connected by a short link e to a
slide e', which carries two link pins, the one being connected to the link e, and the
other to the link e'.
This latter link connects with an arm projecting from a sleeve shaft E³, which
is carried by, and is free to rock on, a rock shaft, hereafter more particularly
referred to.
is a second arm projecting from the sleeve shaft, and connected by a link et to
a rock lever Es, fulcrummed on the base plate A, and carrying a bowle which onters
a groove of a face cam E on the cam shaft.
The cut of this cam is such as to cause the needle to follow (immediately after
the feed) the receding motion of the awl, form the loop of the needle thread, cause
the needle to "dwell" while the shuttle is passing through the loop, to lay the lock-
ing thread therein, and then to withdraw the needle from the work.
F, Figs. 13, 14, 15, is a rotary shuttle for laying the locking thread into the loop
of the needle thread. This shuttle is carried by a supporting arm or bracket F¹
hung on the cam shaft B, and resting at its forward end on the standard A³.
Pivotted to the underside of this bracket arm, is the disc shaped shuttle carrier
F2, which is recessed on its face to receive the shuttle, and is free to turn
on its hinge pin, for the insertion and release of the shuttle.
The portion of the bracket arm which covers the shuttle, when in position for
work, forms a bearing for a short shaft F³, which carries, at its lower end, the
shuttle driver F4, and has fitted to it a mitre wheel f.
The bracket F¹ carries a horizontal shaft F, which is fitted with mitre wheels 1/2
at its opposite ends. The wheel gears with the mitre wheelf on the shuttle
driver shaft, and the wheel gears with the mitre wheel fs on the cam shaft.
Rotary motion is thus communicated from the cam shaft to the excentric shuttle
driver, the form of which, in connection with the shuttle, is best shown in the
enlarged view, Fig. 16.
The shape of the driver is such, that during its rotation, when driving the
shuttle, it will clear the loop of needle thread passing over the body of the
shuttle.
G (see Figs. 17, 18, 19) is a rocking arm, formed, at its upper end, with an eye,
through which the needle thread passes from the bobbin to the eye-pointed
needle, its object being to give out thread for the passage of the shuttle through
the loop, and take up the slack, as required.
This arm G is keyed to one end of a horizontal rock shaft G¹ having its
bearings in lugs on the bed plate, and forming a support for the sleeve shaft E*
before mentioned.
The other end of the rock shaft carries an arm G2, which, by a short link g,
connects with a rocking arm G³ fulcrummed on the bed plate.
This arm G carries a bowle which enters a groove in the face cam G of the cam
shaft.

page_text: As, therefore, this shaft rotates, an alternate movement is effected, by which the
needle thread is tightened, or slack given off, as required.
H is a removable guide, designed as a rest against which the workman holds
up the work, to bring it under the action of the lasting and sewing instruments.
This guide is carried by a socketted bracket projecting from the side of the
standard A, and it is made adjustable vertically by a binding screw, to suit the
work in hand.
The guide is also capable of replacement by other guides of modified shape, which
shapes are best illustrated by Figs. 20, 21 and 22, already referred to, as employed
in connection with different kinds of ribbed soles.
The last, carrying the upper and sole or inner sole, by the hand of the workman
is held up to or against the guide H, which is placed or adjusted to suit the
different thicknesses of materials to be sewn, and in relation to the position of the
lasting grippers D D¹.
From the foregoing description of the mechanism, and the respective actions of
the parts, it will be clearly understood that two distinct operations result from
the action of the machine, and that the sewing mechanism is specially adapted for
use with the ribbed sole above referred to.
It only now remains to explain the cycle of operations in lasting the upper,
and securing it by stitches to the ribbed sole.
The work having been properly fitted to the last, and secured thereon by pins,
it is presented by hand to the machine, and held in place during the operation,
its position being controlled by the guide H and the presser foot d.
Rotary motion being now imparted to the cam shaft, the grippers are caused to
take hold of the edge of the upper (at the part presented to them), and then to strain
or last it.
While the upper is thus held at tension, the awl advances from its normal
position, strikes through the rib of the sole and the upper (close to the grippers),
and at the same moment the strain of the grippers ceases, leaving the awl to
sustain the strain put upon the upper.
The awl then acting as a feeder, moves laterally the length of a stitch, and
coming into line with the needle, commences to retire from the work, followed up
closely by the advancing needle, which enters the hole made by the awl, and
presents its loop of thread to the nose of the shuttle. .
The shuttle driver now causes the shuttle to pass through the loop of the needle
thread, and to deposit a locking thread therein.
As this action occurs, the tension apparatus gives off slack thread, to enable the
shuttle to pass freely through the loop, and when it has thus passed, the slack is
taken up, and the stitches tightened as heretofore.
The continued rotation of the cam shaft causes the grippers to descend, seize on
another portion of the upper, subject it to the like straining or lasting operation,
ready for the repeated action of the piercing and feeding awl.
From the foregoing explanation it will be understood that little skill is required
on the part of the operator to produce good work, his duty differing little from
that attendant on ordinary boot-sewing operations, where no means of straining or
lasting is provided.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we
claim is :-
1. The combination with a sewing machine adapted for the sewing of boots and
shoes, of a device for straining or lasting the upper, such device consisting of a
pair of elastic grippers, one jaw of the grippers being fixed on, and the other
pivotted to, a rock lever, which lever is connected through a bowle with a cam on
the cam shaft, the pivotted gripper being also operated by a second rock lever
similarly connected through a bowle with a cam bearing on the elastic end of

page_text: the pivotted jaw, the whole arranged and operating substantially as above set
forth.
2. In combination with the lasting grippers referred to in Claim 1, the means
above described for regulating the action of the cam D6 upon the grippers, such
means consisting in an adjustable block on the gripper lever D, carrying a bowle
which works in a slotted vertically guided arm carrying the bowle of the grooved
cam D.
3. In a boot and shoe sewing machine provided with lasting grippers, a
piercing and feeding awl having its arm carried by a rocking guide in connection
with a cam on the main driving shaft, the arm being fitted with pins which
project laterally through the rocking guide, and held by springs in contact a
pressing forked rock lever carrying a bowle set within the circuit of a rotating
tappet cam.
4. In a boot and shoe sewing machine having a rotating shuttle, a bracket
support fitted with a pivotted shuttle carrier, which holds the shuttle to its work,
and facilitates its insertion into and removal from the machine, such bracket
support forming a bearing for the shaft of the shuttle driver, and carrying also the
gear in connection with a gear wheel on the cam shaft, for actuating the driver
through a mitre wheel on the driver shaft.
5. In a boot and shoe sewing machine fitted with lasting grippers, an adjustable
guide or rest carried by a socketted standard, and an elastic presser foot carried
by the lasting grippers, such guide and presser foot serving to determine the
proper position of the work when presented by the workman to the action of the
machine.