IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES
Year: 1865

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Newton Wilson, Sewing Machine Manu-
facturer, of 144, High Holborn, in the County of Middlesex, for the
Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES."
Sealed the 22nd September 1865, and dated the 29th March 1865.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Newton Wilson
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
29th March 1865.
I, WILLIAM NEWTON WILSON, Sewing Machine Manufacturer, of 144,
High Holborn, in the County of Middlesex, do hereby declare the nature of
the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES," to be as
follows:-
-
The first part of my Invention consists in a new arrangement of parts in
combination, and forming what is known as a lock-stitch machine. The
machine is driven by friction, and a small crank on the shaft having a pin or
stud at its extremity operates the needle arm by a heart motion. To the
same stud is connected a short straight lever, on the other extremity of which
is a stud connecting the shuttle driver, the action of which arrangement is an
irregular rotation of the connecting lever, producing a regular forward and
backward action of the shuttle driver. The parts above the bed plate are in
the ordinary form, with a top feed, and the work passes in front of the operator.
To prevent the machine turning in the wrong direction, I introduce above the
driving wheel a sliding plate with an inclined plane, having a small projection,

page_text: which instantly catches the friction wheel if turned in the
wrong direction.
By these arrangements I combine simplicity with certainty of action, and
great economy in production.
The second part of my improvements consists in a new arrangement of
parts for a knotted-stitch machine. In this machine the needle arm is
attached by and works upon centres on the bed plate of the machine, and the
work is fed at right angles with the operator. The needle arm is cranked
below, so as to be driven by a pin operating in a slot in the arm from the
farther side of the pulley frame. On the near side of the pulley frame is
fixed the feeder cam, producing the ordinary four-motion feed. To the front
face of this cam is fixed a pin, which operating in a slot gives the forward and
backward motion to the looper carrying the second thread. The looper is
fixed to a hinged frame working freely on a stud at its base; there is a swell
on the face of the feed cam, which throws out the looper as the needle
descends, thus distending the lower loop, while a spring in front returns it to
its position when this loop is secured, and preparatory to taking the next
stitch. By this arrangement I effect simplicity of construction and operation
with comparative noiselessness in action. To the treadle of this machine I
attach a leather or india-rubber joint in place of the iron hinge commonly used
for similar action, & by which I accomplish noiselessness in action; and
the joint is so constructed that it requires no oil, and hence can never damage
the dress of the operator.
The third part of my improvements consists in a new form of arm-manu-
facturing machine. The arm containing the shuttle instead of being parallel
with the fixed arm, above, as is ordinarily the case, forms. three sides of a
quadrangle, the extremity of which approaches the fixed arm, and terminates
immediately under the presser slide, being thus at right angles with the rest
of the machine. The motion of the shuttle is effected by a cam fixed at the
extremity of the driving shaft, which operating a lever in what may be termed
the intermediate arm gives a forward and backward movement to the shuttle
driver operating in the third line of the quadrangle; this driver operates the
shuttle (which is fixed in a circular race at the extremity of the arm) by
means of a rack and pinion. By this arrangement I am enabled to sew
tubular work, such as the back straps of boots without the necessity of the
ordinary cross action, and can also apply the machine to stitching in new
elastics in old side-spring boots. The machine is fixed on a pedestal stand,
and driven by a treadle working a wheel on a shaft in the centre of the
pedestal.
The fourth part of my improvements consists in a new adiustable hemmer

page_text: and a new guide. The adjustable hemmer consists in a slotted plate having
an inclined plane for the edge of the work, over which affixed by clips to the
slotted part is another moveable plate with a curled edge, which is adjusted
in an instant to any width of hem required by the operator; when fixed the
two plates are fastened by one screw to the bed plate of the machine. The
guide is specially intended for machine No. 3, or any others for a similar class
of work, and is fixed to the presser slide of the machine, so as continually to
rest on the work to the right of the needle, the effect of it is to ensure
absolute accuracy in the stitching of seams in straight lines.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said William Newton Wilson in the Great Seal Patent Office
on the 29th September 1865.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, WILLIAM
NEWTON WILSON, Sewing Machine Manufacturer, of 144, High Holborn, in
the County of Middlesex, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-ninth day of March, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-five, in the twenty-eighth year of
Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto
me, the said William Newton Wilson, Her special licence that I, the said
William Newton Wilson, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such
others as I, the said William Newton Wilson, my executors, administrators,
and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to
time and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should
and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United
Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of
Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES," upon the
condition (amongst others) that I, the said William Newton Wilson, my
executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or
one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the
nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be per-
formed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within
six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters
Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said William Newton Wilson, do hereby
declare the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same

page_text: is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement:-
The first part of my Invention consists in a new arrangement of parts in
combination, and forming which is known as a lock-stitch machine. The
machine is driven by a pulley from a main driving wheel, and a snall crank
on the shaft having a pin or stud at its extremity actuates the needle arm by
a heart-shaped motion. To the same stud is connected a short straight lever,
on the other extremity of which is a stud connecting the shuttle driver, the
action of which arrangement is an irregular rotation of the connecting lever,
producing a regular forward and backward action of the shuttle driver. The
parts above the bed plate are in the ordinary form, with a top feed, the work
passing in front of the operator. To prevent the machine being turned in the
wrong direction, I introduce above the driving wheel a sliding plate with an
inclined plane having a small projection, which instantly catches the pulley if
turned in the wrong direction. By these arrangements I combine simplicity
with certainty of action and great economy in production.
The second part of my improvements consists in a new arrangement of
parts for a knotted-stitch machine. In this machine the needle arm is
attached by and works upon centres on the bed plate of the machine, and the
work is fed at right angles to the operator. The needle arm is cranked
below, so as to be driven by a pin operating in a slot in the arm from the
further side of the pulley frame. On the near side of the pulley frame is
fixed the feeder cam producing the ordinary four-motion feed. To the front
face of this cam is fixed a pin, which operating in a slot gives the forward and
backward motion to the looper carrying the second thread. The looper is
fixed to a hinged frame working freely on a stud at its base; there is a swell
on the face of the feed cam which throws out the looper as the needle
descends, thus distending the lower loop, which a spring in front returns it to
its position, when this loop is secured and preparatory to taking the next
stitch. By this arrangement I effect simplicity of construction and operation
with comparative noiselessness of action. To the treadle of this machine I
attach a leather or india-rubber joint in place of the iron hinge commonly
used for similar motion, and by which I accomplish noiselessness in action,
and the joint is so constructed that it requires no oil, and hence can never
damage the dress of the operator.
The third part of my improvements consists in a new form of arm manu-
facturing machine. The arm containing the shuttle instead of being parallel
with the fixed arm above, as is ordinarily the case, forms three sides of a
quadrangle, the extremity of which approaches the fixed arm, and terminates

page_text: immediately under the presser slide, being thus at right angles with the rest
of the machine. The motion of the shuttle is effected by a cam fixed at the
extremity of the driving shaft, which actuating a lever in what may be termed
the intermediate arm gives a forward and backward movement to the shuttle
driver operating in the third line of the quadrangle; the driver actuates the
shuttle, which is fixed in a circular race at the extremity of the arm by means
of a rack and pinion. By this arrangement I am enabled to sew tubular
work, such as the back straps of boots without the necessity of the ordinary
cross action, and can also apply the machine to stitching in new elastics in old
side spring boots. By a slight alteration in the presser slide an instantaneous
cross action may be obtained. The machine is fixed on a pedestal stand, and
driven by a treadle working a wheel on a shaft in the centre of the pedestal
I have a small hinged table with a slot to admit the shuttle arm, which can
be raised to serve as a small table for the use of the operator.
The fourth part of my improvements consists in a new adjustable hemmer
and a new guide. The adjustable hemmer consists in a slotted plate having
an inclined plane for the edge of the work, over which, affixed by clips to
the slotted part, is another moveable plate with a curled edge, which is
adjusted in an instant to any required width of hem by the operator; when
fixed the two plates are fastened by one screw to the bed plate of the machine.
The guide is specially intended for the machine described under the third part
Imy Invention, or any other machine for a similar class of work, and is
fixed to the presser slide of the machine, so as continually to rest on the work
to the right of the needle, the effect of it is to insure absolute accuracy in the
stitching of seams in straight lines.
of
Having thus far explained the nature and object of my said Invention, I
shall now proceed more particularly to describe the same, and in order thereto
shall refer to the illustrative Sheet of Drawings accompanying this my
Specification, and to the letters and figures of reference marked thereon,
respectively, as follows:-
Figs. 1 and 2 refer to the first part of my Invention. Fig. 1 is a side
elevation of my lock-stitch machine, and Fig. 2 is an end view of the same.
A is the pulley, which is driven by any convenient power, as by steam, or by
hand, or foot; B is the crank fixed on the same spindle C, which works into
the heart-shaped motion D, which moves the needle arms E, shown in dotted
lines, according to the curves of the heart. To the same stud F is attached
another crank G, at the extremity of which is attached the lever H, in con-
nection with the shuttle in the slot K. On the pulley A being caused to
rotate the crank B revolves, the stud F following the shape of the heart-

page_text: shaped cam D,and moving the needle bar E accordingly, while the connecting
rod G actuates the shuttle driver H in connection with the shuttle in the
slot K; L, L, are supports for the axle carrying the pulley A; the rest of
the machine is of ordinary construction.
Figs. 3 and 4 refer to and illustrate the second portion of my Invention.
Fig. 3 is a side view, and Fig. 4 an end view of my knotted-stitch machine.
The needle arm A works on the centre B. This needle arm is cranked
below at C, and embraces a pin D, which is driven by a crank from the
driving pulley E; F and F are the supports for the axle G, on which are
fixed the pulley E and the feeder cam H. The forward and backward motion
to the looper K is given by the stud L in the front face of the cam H. For
the purpose of distending the loop as the needle descends the stud O works
against the face of the cam H; on passing the swell in the face of the cam
the spring P returns it to its place. I do not consider it necessary to give a
drawing of the treadle of that machine, as I simply employ leather or indian-
rubber instead of iron at the joint. The economy, noiselessness, and freedom
from grease or oil is an essential feature of this latter portion of the second
part of my Invention, and I distinctly claim the construction and use of
leather joints in place of iron between the treaddle and connecting rod in'such
machines. In order to render the quadruple motion of the looper K more
distinct, I give two full-sized views of the same, Figs. 4 and 4°. Fig. 4*
represents the mechanism which gives the backward and forward motion to
the looper K. The stud L in the front face of the cam H works in an
excentric groove in the plate S, which is consequently moved backwards and
forwards. Near its base at V is hinged the brass plate T, shewn in Fig. 4b,
to which is affixed the looper K; a stud O secured in the plate T is regulated
in its motion by pressing against the face of the cam H. By this action the
looper receives the right and left movements in forming the knotted stitch at
right angles to the former motion. After passing the swell in the cam face
the spring P which continually presses against T returns it to its place.
When the looper is required to be removed the spring P can be pushed on
one side, and the looper then falls back on the hinge V.
Figs. 5 and 6 exhibit the form of arm manufacturing machine embraced
under the third part of my Invention, Fig. 5 being an elevation, and Fig. 6 a
plan of the same. The arm A containing the shuttle instead of being
parallel with the fixed arm B above, as is ordinarily the case, forms three
sides of a quadrangle, as is seen more clearly in the plan, Fig. 6. The
extremity of the third side approaches the fixed arm B, and terminates under
the presser slide C, being thus at right angles with the rest of the machine

page_text: The shuttle is actuated by the levers D and E, the former of which is directed
in its motion by a slot in the cam F, and the proper reciprocating motion of
the shuttle is communicated thereby through the lever E by a rack and
pinion G, shewn in Fig. 6. The cam F is fixed on the spindle H, and
revolves by being driven by the band on the grooved pulley I; K is the
needle arm, actuated by the cam P. A handle may be fixed to this cam if
required, so that the machine may be driven by hand; N and O are the levers
actuating the presser slide C with the ordinary quadruple motion by means of
the double cam R. In sewing tubular work, as the back straps of boots, or
such like, it is placed over the arm A, and the work proceeds in that direction.
When plain work has to be done, I have a small table T, which can be raised
on its hinge and fastened to the arm A. This machine I mount ou a pedestal
stand V, Fig. 5, which gives it stability and elegance, and the motion is
derived from a treadle W and driving wheel Y by means of an endless band
passing over the pulley I.
Fig. 7 has reference to the fourth part of my Invention, and shows a full-
size view of my hemmer. A is a plate, on which is secured by the clips C, C, C,
the sliding plate B. The plates are slotted at D, as shewn, so that B may
be slided on A to the required width of hem at f to g; E is an inclined plane
on the plate A, so as to guide the hem between it and the curled edge H of
the upper plate B. When set to the required width the two plates are
secured by one screw through the slot at D to the bed plate of the machine
Fig. 8 and 8 have also reference to the fourth part of my Invention, and
show a full-sized sectional plan of an improved guide. A is a section of the
presser slide, through a hole in which the guide B is passed, and secured in
its required place by the set screw D; the guide is furnished with a curved
foot, as at C, so as not to tear the fabric. This form of guide it will readily
be seen is best adapted to the form of machine described under the third
part of my Invention, and illustrated by Figs. 5 and 6, or to machines
employing a wheel feed.
Having now fully described and illustrated my Invention, together with the
mechanical arrangements whereby I propose to carry out the same, I wish it
to be clearly understood that I do not in any way confine myself to the
relative proportions, dimensions, or forms of the various mechanical details
herein-before described and illustrated, knowing that such proportions, dimen-
sions, and forms may be greatly varied without departing from the principles
of my Invention; but what I do claim as my Invention to be protected under
Letters Patent is,-
Firstly, the combination and mechanical arrangement set forward in the

page_text: first part of my Invention, having special reference to the lock-stitch sewing
machines.
Secondly, the general arrangement and combination of mechanism set
forward in the second part of my Invention, applicable to knotted-stitch
machines.
Thirdly, the general mechanical arrangements and combinations set forward
in the third and fourth part of my Invention.
Fourthly, I claim the combinations and general arrangements of mechanism
for sewing machines set forward in this my Specification.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Newton Wilson, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, this Twenty-ninth day of September, in the
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-five.
Witness,
CHARLES S. BAKER,
General Patent Company, Limited,
71, Fleet Street.
W. N. WILSON. (L.S.)