or Bands to Hats by Machinery.
Year: 1887

page_text: or Bands to Hats by Machinery.
THOMAS MARSDEN COCKROFT of 8 Summerfield Terrace Langsett Road Sheffield,
Depôt Manager do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement:-
My object is to construct a sewing machine to attach hat leathers or bands to the
inner edge of "band mark" of a hat, by a row of connected stitches in imitation of
hand whipping, and; at the same operation to form a cord to cover the raw edge of the
leather or band. It is found that an ordinary sewing machine, with a vertical needle
and flat bedplate, is not adapted for this purpose. It is necessary that the sewing
should be on the inner edge or "band mark" of the hat. The said "band mark" or
inner edge not being accessible to machines of the vertical needle type.
The annexed sheets of drawings illustrate a sewing machine (with its details)
constructed to carry out my invention. Fig. 1 is a front elevation Fig. 2 is the
back view of same Fig. 3 shows the end view of machine Fig. 4 reverse end of
same Fig. 5 front views showing Rack motion of cord former, Fig. 6 the Helmet
Fig. 7-plan and Fig. 8-side. view of Expander Fig. 9 plan and side view of
Expander arms Fig. 10 detached view of slide bars of Shuttle Motions Fig. 11 front
and side view of Cord former Fig. 12 separate parts of Cord former Fig. 13 detached
parts of Rack Motion Fig. 14 views of various Cams. Fig. 15 three views of face
plate Fig. 16 Sleeve jointed lever Fig. 17 three views of the depressor Fig. 18 six
views of Looper parts. Fig. 19 4 views of Gripper lever. Fig. 20 views of needle bar
block & lever Fig. 21 five views of feedplate Fig. 22 Shuttle Motion-open-Fig. 23
Shuttle Motion-closed-Fig. 24 details of Shuttle Motion Fig. 25 three views of
Shuttle. Diagrams I II III IV V VI of the formation of the stitch.
In carrying out this invention I insert the hat crown downwards in the helmet 1,
said helmet is supported loosely on the rod 2, sliding in tube 3, against the resistance
of spiral spring 4, the rod 2 is in frictional contact with helmet 1 at its highest point,
the other end of rod 2, resting on spiral spring 4, in tube 3, tube 3 is pivoted in
Price 1177

page_text: bracket 5 as shown in Fig. 1 Rod 2 and tube 3 are retained in approximately vertical
position, by four spiral springs 6 connected to ring bracket 7.
«
The hat leather or band is inserted in the hat with its raw edge flush with the inner
edge or band mark" of the hat, and is held firmly in this position during the
operation of sewing by four radial arms 8, said radial arms sliding in guides, each
radial arm having vertical pins (see Fig. 9) geared into helical screw 9 shown by
dotted lines in Fig. 7. Said radial arms are expanded simultaneously by means
of helical screw 9. The vertical adjustment of the radial arms in the hat is regulated
by rest 10 sliding in hollow tube 11.
The feedplate 12 is concave on its outer edge (see Fig. 21) and is vertically
adjustable in V grooves by means of screw and nut 13 at its lower end.
The support with V grooves, is hinged at the end of arm A by screw stud 14 and
longitudinal adjustment regulated by thumb screw 15 against the resistance of
plate spring 16.
has a
The peculiar shape of the feed plate 12 and the angle at which it is held in the
support, presents the hat diagonally to the line of the needle's traverse, with the result
that a row of diagonal stitches are produced.
It is clear from the above description, that the hat when in helmet 1 and on
supporting rod 2, is free to move in any direction by its own gravity, and that the
needle descending would move the hat away from the feedplate instead of penetrating
it, unless the hat was held firmly against the said feed plate 12.
To overcome this objection I use a gripper lever 17, (Fig. 19) provided with swivel
plate 18 at its lower end said gripper lever 17, is kept from contact with the hat by
plate spring 19 (see Fig. 15) when the feed is in operation, and when lever 20 is not
in contact with gripper lever head Upon the descent of the needle bar, block 21 with
runner fixed thereon, lifts lever 20 into frictional contact with the head of gripper
lever 17, and consequently brings the swivel plate at its lower end firmly against the
hat and feedplate 12, until the needle has penetrated the hat, thrown out its loop and
retreated to nearly its highest traverse, upon which the hat is free to be fed the space
necessary for another stitch Adjustable thumb screw 22 gives more or less grip
according to the different thicknesses of felt.
The feed motion is preferably an ordinary “European” feed, but any of the well
known top feed motions are equally applicable.
Any ordinary sewing machine needle, bar, and cam are adapted to form the well
known needle loop, but the position of the needle in its advance must be at such an
angle as to penetrate the hat on its inner edge or "band mark" without showing
traces of the perforations on the outer circumference of the hat, such perforations
entirely through the "band mark" would be very objectionable, because they would
destroy the waterproof character of the hat.
B is the needle, C the needle bar, at an angle as shown in Fig. 1, D is a link
connecting needle bar C, with lever E, lever E with runner engaging into grooved
cam F on the main shaft, the motion of which is well known.
دو
The needle having penetrated the hat and leather, and thrown out its loop, said loop
is caught by looper 23 and carried forward parallel with the "shed threads to be
hereinafter described.
The looper is formed with a projecting heel as shown in Fig. 18 and describes an arc
of a circle, about its centre, owing to the peculiar formation of the looper 23, one side
of the loop will be held on the projecting heel, whilst the other will be free to slide
upon the face or free side of the looper 23 with the result, that the loop is carried
above the surface of the hat brim and takes the form of an open "shed "for the free
passage of the shuttle as shown in Dia. II.
The looper 23 receives its motion from grooved cam G on the main shaft, through
the medium of lever H entering a slot 24 in the face plate I and engaging under gib
on the top of rack 25 said rack gearing into segmental wheel on looper 23. The
rack 25 is provided with pressure spring 26. Cam G makes one revolution for each
stitch and communicates a vertical reciprocating motion to rack 25 through
lever H.

page_text: The cord former is mounted freely upon a hollow spindle 27 with a screw thread cut
thereon, and is bolted to bracket J. The said cord former consists of a hollow
spindle 28 rotated upon spindle 27, hollow spindle 28 carries a frame 29 with reel
holders 30 and tension plates 31 with corresponding check springs 33, at the back part
of spindle 28 and next to the reel holders 30, is a disc plate 34 with ratchet wheel 35
fixed thereon, the disc plate 34 being larger in diameter in reference to the ratchet
wheel 35 forms a front flange to act as a guide for rack K, disc 34 is provided with
two rider pins 36, another disc plate 37 is fixed to ratchet wheel 35 and forms a
reverse flange to the one on disc plate 34.
Rack K is fitted with a flange as shown in Fig. 13 and receives a horizontal
reciprocating motion from "grooved cam L on main shaft through levers and
link 38.
The forward motion of the rack K is upon rider pins 36 alternately and on its'
backward motion it drops in gear with ratchet wheel 35 and brings the cord former
over one half revolution (See Fig. 5, 11, 12, 13).
A brake 39 on bracket J and in frictional contact with disc plates 34 and 37
retains the cord former stationary during the forward movement of the rack K.
The cord former preferably makes one half revolution to each stitch formed, but it
is obvious that, if more twist is required in the cord, that object can be attained by
causing the cord former to revolve a complete revolution by suitable mechanical means,
for this purpose, cam L is shown in Fig. 14 as a double throw cam, and in dotted lines
as a single throw cam.
The object of forming the spindle 27 hollow is to allow a "strand" thread to be led
through it, around which the "shed threads" carried by the cord former would twist
and form a thicker cord, than would be formed, were the invention carried into effect
by the twisting of the "shed threads" only.
The object of covering the raw edge of the leather can be accomplished by substi-
tuting for the cord former, a "shed "formed of two or more threads carried in "healds "
and operated by the up and down motion of the "healds" of a loom.:
This substitution of "healds" for the cord former does not however give an identical
appearance to the cord so formed, the one formed by the "healds" having a flat
appearance and the other forming a perfect cord.
The shuttle passing mechanism comprises two arms M and N with shuttle boxes 40
and 41 at the extremity of each arm, on each of the arms M and N is pivoted a
lever 42, with plate spring 43, pivoted at 44 is a short lever 45 at right angles to
lever 42 and gearing into lever 42 by a slot and pin, on the surface of each shuttle
box is a Topening to receive the end of lever 45, upon the shuttle being passed into
the shuttle box of either arm, levers 45 slide upon an inclined plane 46 on the shuttle,
and by the resistance of spring 43, lever 45 is depressed below the face of the inclined
plane 46, thus lever 45 acts as a catch to hold the shuttle securely in the shuttle box,
until said lever 45 is acted upon by a motion to be hereinafter described See
Fig. 22, 23 24 and 25.
The shuttle box arm M is attached to bevel gear 47 and the corresponding arm N is
attached to bevel gear 48, another bevel gear 49 engaging with gears 47 and 48 and
connected by link 50 and sliding bar 51, receives a horizontal reciprocating motion
from grooved cam O.
The grooved cam 0 (See Fig. 14) is so cut that a slight rest is given to the
shuttle arms and consequently to the tension of the shuttle thread, until the take up T
has taken the loop of slack thread released by the backward movement of the
looper 23 and drawn the loop down to the perforation made by the needle.
The shuttle releasing motion consists in a cross-piece 52 (See Fig. 23) movable
on a stud 53 connected to fixed shaft 54 through bracket V. Said cross piece 52
is connected by a joint and link to sliding bar 55 and receives a reciprocating
circular motion from eccentric P on main shaft. Eccentric P making one
revolution for each stitch and through the medium of its connected parts, alternately
opening and shutting the respective shuttle boxes.
The combined action of the releasing motion and the shuttle box arms, is that the

page_text: shuttle is alternately passed from one arm to the other and carried behind the needle
when in the right hand shuttle box N and in the opposite direction when in the left
hand shuttle box M.
Sleeved on the front edge of the face plate I is a depressor 58 formed with an
inwardly projecting spur (Fig. 17) and actuated through sleeve jointed lever Q
receiving its motion from grooved cam R and communicating to the depressor 58 a
vertically reciprocating motion.
The depressor cam R has two revolutions or throws (See Fig. 14) for each stitch
one to depress the shuttle thread below the path of looper 23, when the shuttle is in
the left hand shuttle box M, and the second revolution to allow the looper 23 to
retreat and release the loop.
Lever S substantially parallel with the needle bar, and with an inclined plane at
its lower extremity, is actuated by cone 59 on needle bar block 21 (See Fig. 20).
Said lever S receives a slight downward movement (from block 21 on needle bar)
in the direction of the hat immediately before the needle penetrates the hat. The
object in view being to reduce the liability of the needle to glance off, when it comes
against the hat in a diagonal direction.
The shuttle is of the form shown in Fig. 25 in the centre of shuttle is stud 60 upon
which the reel 61 is placed, inclined planes 46 at each end of the shuttle, co-operating
with lever 45 to alternately close and open shuttle boxes 40 and 41.
Face plate I with all the working parts looper 23, depressor 58 gripper lever 17, is
movable vertically in slots 62 and 63 by lift handle 64 and may be clamped rigidly
to the overhanging arm by thumb screw & stud 65, passing through slot 62, and
adjustable to any desired position in reference to the needle by sett screw 66.
The thread take up T is of an ordinary form, receiving a positive motion from
grooved cam U on main shaft (Fig. 14).
The needle thread tension and thread guides are too well known to need any
discription.
Diagrams I II III IV V and VI show the various stages necessary to form the
complete stitch, in Dia. I the needle is shown as having penetrated the hat and
formed its loop, the depressor 58 is shown holding the shuttle thread below the path
of the looper 23, the shuttle being in the left hand shuttle box arm M, the looper 23
in position to move forward and seize the loop already formed, the "shed" being in
vertical position.
Dia. II The needle is shown as still in the hat, but the looper 23 has seized the
loop and carried it forward substantially parallel with the "shed." The left hand
shuttle box arm M has moved forward and is in the act of passing the shuttle
through the loop and "shed." The depressor (not shown) has moved to its
highest point.
Dia. III The needle is shown removed from the hat to its highest position, the
looper 23 has returned to its position in Dia. I, the take up has drawn the needle
thread down to the surface of the leather or "band," the shuttle has been passed
through the loop and "shed" into the right hand shuttle box arm N, said shuttle box
arm N is in the act of carrying the shuttle and thread behind the needle and at
the same time drawing the needle thread tight against the twist put into the "shed”
by the half revolution of the "shed threads."
The shuttle thread is held tight behind the needle by means of the tension on
shuttle thread and the shuttle box arm N having completed the full extent of it
backward traverse. The shuttle thread is held behind the needle until the needle
again penetrates the hat, the "shed" in the meantime has resumed the position
shown in Dia. I upon which the shuttle is passed back through the "shed" only into
its original position in shuttle box arm M (See Dia. I).
The result of carrying and holding the shuttle thread behind the needle until the
next act of penetration, is that the needle thread has passed through the hat and
leather, and will be interlaced with the shuttle thread, and drawn tight against the
reverse side of the cord, by the action of the shuttle thread passing across the path of
the needle into the left hand shuttle box arm M.

page_text: Dia. IV is a representation of the stitches with their respective loops open,
67 and 68 are the "shed" threads, 69 the shuttle thread, and 70 is the needle
thread.
Dia. V shows the needle thread 70 with the loops drawn tight against the front of
the "shed threads" 67 and 68, but open on the reverse side of the "shed threads
with a view to show the interlacing of the shuttle thread 69 and needle thread 70.
Dia. VI is an illustration of the stitches with all the threads drawn up and in a
finished condition.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of this inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is―
First. In the manufacture of hats the hereinbefore described stitch formed by the
co-operation of the needle, looper shuttle, and cord former, substantially as described
and shown in Dia. I, II, III, IV, V, VI.
Second. In combination with a sewing machine, the helmet 1 rod 2 sliding tube 3
spring 4, bracket 5 spiral spring 6, and ring bracket 7, for the purpose specified, and
substantially as shown.
Third. The combination, in a sewing machine, of radial arms 8, with vertical pins
sliding in guides, geared into helical screw 9 and adjustable vertically by rest 10 in
hollow tube 11, the whole calculated to hold the leather securely in position, when
the arms are expanded as set forth in Fig. 7 and 8.
Fourth. In combination, in a sewing machine, of feedplate 12 sliding in vertical
support hinged to arm A by screw stud 14; adjustable vertically by screw and nut 13
and having longitudinal adjustment by thumb screw 15, for the purpose specified and
substantially as described.
Fifth. In combination with a sewing machine, a gripper lever 17 with swivel
plate 18 spring 19 and lever 20 receiving its motion from needle bar block 21 and
thumb screw 22 for the purpose specified.
Sixth. The combination in a sewing machine of looper 23 with segmental wheel
geared into rack 25, with lever H engaging under gib on said rack and pressure
spring 26 for the purpose specified.
Seventh. The combination in a sewing machine of a cord former, consisting of
hollow spindle 28 and dises 34 and 37 with ratchet wheel of lesser diameter betwixt
them, Disc 34 having rider pins 36, the said spindle carrying frame 29, reel
holders 30, tension plates 31 and 32 and slack thread springs 33. The said cord
former is rotated intermittingly on hollow spindle 27 bolted to bracket J, by
means of flanged rack K levers and link 38 and grooved cam L substantially as
set forth.
Eight. As new the combination in a sewing machine of two arms M and N with
shuttle boxes 40 and 41 at the extremity of each arm. Said arms having a spring 43
in contact with lever 42 said lever 42 gearing into slot in lever 45, and short
lever 45 projecting into a T opening in shuttle box 40. Said arms attached
respectively to a top and bottom bevel gears 48 and 47. Said bevel gears receive
a reciprocating circular motion through bevel gear 49 on projecting stud and
connected by link 50 and sliding bar 51, engaging in grooved cam O on main
shaft substantially as specified.
Nineth. A shuttle releasing motion consisting of vertical shaft 54 with horizontal
projecting stud on which a cross piece 52 receives a reciprocating circular motion
communicated by a link connection to sliding bar 55, said bar 55 engaging in
eccentric P on main shaft, alternately depressing the levers on shuttle box arms and
consequently releasing or holding the shuttle as the case may be substantially as
described.
Tenth. The combination in a sewing machine of a depressor 58 with inwardly
projecting spur, sleeved upon face plate I and connected to sleeve jointed lever Q
engaging in grooved cam R, from which the said depressor receives a vertically
reciprocating motion as set forth.

page_text: Eleventh. In combination with a sewing machine, of lever S substantially parallel
with the needle bar, actuated by cone 59 on needle bar block 21 as set forth.
Twelveth. The combination in a sewing machine, of a shuttle (Fig. 25) with
stud 61 and inclined planes 46 at each end substantially as described.
Thirteenth. In combination with a sewing machine of face plate I having slots 24,
62, and 63, said plate vertically movable by means of left handle 64 and adjustable
in reference to the needle by thumb screw 66, clamped rigidly by thumb screw &
stud 65 as specified.
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