Improvements relating to Fastenings for Ties and Cravats.
Year: 1894

page_text: Date of Application, 13th Jan., 1894-Accepted, 24th Feb., 1894
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements relating to Fastenings for Ties and Cravats.
I, EMILE BATTMANN, of 22, Rue de la Victoire, Paris, in the Republic of
France, Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement :-
My invention relates to fastenings for ties and cravats.
It is well known that frequent inconveniences are experienced resulting from the
present method of fastening ties and cravats, for example, the neck band is
generally very long and difficult to adjust especially with shirts having turn-down
collars, and the cravat no matter how well secured it may be has always a
tendency to rise. Besides which much unnecessary material and labour are
required to make the neck band, and tie-clips of all kinds easily get out of order.
My fastening for cravats obviates all these inconveniences and it has besides the
advantage that the cravat can be rapidly and easily attached to the shirt by a
simple pressure and be removed by slightly pulling the cravat; the latter is not
liable to become displaced being fixed directly to the part of the stud passing
through the button holes of the shirt.
Hitherto cravats have been fixed to the shirt by means of a neck band and a
suitable clip but it has never before been proposed to employ a partial spring neck
band in combination with a clasp stud in two parts one of which passes through
the button holes of the shirt and the other is fixed to the cravat, allowing the
cravat to be fixed to the stud by a simple pressure. This combination constitutes
the main feature of my invention.
To enable my invention to be fully understood I will describe it by reference
to the accompanying drawings which illustrate some examples of my invention.
Figures 1 and 2 are a horizontal section through the centre and a plan
respectively shewing my clasp-stud made of two parts A and B; the part A
being represented opposite the opening in the part B. The dotted lines represent
the cravat sewn over the part B of the stud :
Figures 3 and 4 illustrate a modification in the construction of the said stud, the
part A being shewn in its closed position:
Figure 5 represents a stud in two parts in which the part A acts as a spring; in
this case a ball 10 of india-rubber or other elastic material is placed over the
part A of the stud and the part B is stamped with a circular cavity of the shape
shewn:
Figure 6 represents a front elevation of the partial neck band without the
part B of the stud:
Figure 7 is a plan of the said neck band :
Figure 8 is a vertical section through the axis of the stud shewing the method
of fixing the cravat to the shirt:
Figures 9 and 10 represent by way of example a front elevation and vertical
section respectively illustrating the method fixing the cravat to a shirt having a
turn-down collar.
My clasp-stud for fixing cravats consists of a cylindrical, rectangular or other
suitable shaped casing 1, stamped up at its two ends as shewn in Figures 1 and 3.
Within the casing is a disc or ring 2 of india-rubber, gutta-percha, leather or
other elastic material, the aperture in which is of cylindrical or truncated conical
form or has rounded edges. This disc or ring forms the essential part of my
clasp-stud, the diameter of the aperture being smaller than the diameter of the
head of the part A which is intended to pass through it; the disc or ring may

page_text: be flat or rather thicker towards the outer edge than at the edge of the aperture
in order that it may be better secured at the outer edge by a metal plate 3
provided with a hole and fastened by its turn-down portion 4. The india-rubber
disc or ring thus forms the spring of my stud; it may also be provided with one
or two ribs or projections entering corresponding recesses in the casing 1 or
plate 3. To close the stud it is only necessary to lightly press the two
parts A and B together; the india-rubber disc or ring then yields under the
pressure and as soon as the part A is in the position indicated in Figure 3 the
aperture in the disc or ring resumes its former size thus retaining the part A.
By pulling the two parts A and B apart the stud can be opened.
In order to allow of fixing the part B to the cravat, a plate 5 of resisting
material and of suitable form, for example one of the forms indicated in
Figures 2 and 4 (according to whether the cravat is a cross-over scarf or a
simple tie) is secured by the turned-over edge 6 upon the casing 1. Projections 7
or holes 8 serve to facilitate the fixing of this plate and consequently the part B
of the stud to the back of the cravat. This plate inay also be made of a
suitable cloth or fabric, it being then firmly fixed to the part B by the turned-over
edge 6 and sewn directly to the back of the cravat in a suitable position and then
forms the inner lining of the cravat. When the plate 5 is of metal it is concealed
by a lining 9 sewn to the cravat.
I will now describe the manner of fixing the cravat to the shirt.
The part A being passed through the button holes of the collar it is only
necessary to place the part B which is on the cravat opposite the head of the
part A and to press on the cravat at the place where the part B is situated, at the
same time holding the part A and the fastening will be effected by reason of
the elasticity of the india-rubber disc or ring; this fastening is sufficiently
secure to resist any movements of the neck. To remove the cravat it is only
necessary to draw it away from the person.
This fastening for cravats is particularly advantageous for turn-down collars
because it allows of entirely dispensing with the neck band of the tie as well as
because of its simple and rapid method of fixing.
For stand up collars it is necessary to have a portion of a neck band to hide
the junction of the collar with the shirt. In order to allow of applying my
fastening to this kind of collar, instead of fixing the part B to the plate 5 it is
turned down over the neck band which is made with a holo for this purpose as
shewn in Figures 6 and 8, and the said neck baud is then sewn to the cravat. The
neck band represented in Figures 6 and 7 is made of flexible material such as
steel, vulcanized india-rubber, or celluloid; it is slightly conical in cross section
in order to bear simultaneously on the shirt and on the collar; being securely sewn
to the cravat the invariable position of the latter prevents the ends of the neck
band from rising; nevertheless for greater security the ends of the neck band can
be curved back in order that they may rest on the shoulders or extend down over
the back where they will be held by the weight of the wearer's garments. The
plate 11 of the neck band assists to prevent the ends of the neck band from rising,
this plate being sewn to the cravat.
The neck band is printed or covered with a fabric similar to the cravat. The
placing of the cravat is effected as hereinbefore described by bringing the cravat
opposite the part A of the stud already securing the collar, the neck band opens
and by pressing on the cravat at about the part B the fastening will be effected.
Figures 11, 12 and 13 represent a modification of the neck band; instead of
being made in a single piece it is formed of two strips 12 of thin steel or other
suitable flexible material rivetted together at 13 with a plate 14 provided at its
end with a hole serving for fixing the part B of the stud to the said plate.
The two arms 12 are curved back as shewn in Figure 13 in order that they may
exactly fit over the shirt collar; the curving is such that the elasticity of the said
strips causes them to lightly bear upon the collar. The plate 14 is also slightly
curved back.

page_text: The part B of my stud is directly fixed to the plate 14 of the neck band by
means of the turned-over portion 6 but in order to conceal the fastening of the
neck band with the cravat a lining 15 is secured between the part 1 of the stud B
and the plate 14; this lining then forms a portion of the neck band and of the
part B and it is sewn at the same time as the neck band to the back of the cravat ;
the plate 14 can be extended downwards as hereinbefore described.
Figures 14 and 15 represent a modification of the manner of fastening the part B
to the cravat; the plate 5 instead of being sewn directly to the back of the cravat
remains free and is formed of a thin strip of metal 5 clamping between itself and
the part B of the stud a lining 15 sewn to the back of the cravat and holding the
part B. The plate 5 may vary in length according to the form of the cravat,
thus for a small necktie its length would not exceed the width of the cravat.
I can also, if required, entirely dispense with the casing 1 and the plate 5, that
is to say, I can make the elastic aperture of the disc or ring 2 in a thin plate of
suitable shape and of a material which is of an elastic nature like india-rubber, or
render this aperture elastic in a plate of metal by cutting or applying at the edge
of the aperture strips curved or not and forming a spring for holding the head of
the part A of the stud.
I reserve to myself the right of applying my improved stud to gloves, shoes, shirts,
dress, corsets, etc. Although the part A of my clasp-stud may be in the form of
an ordinary stud I may make it of any suitable form and dimensions suitable to
the part B, these dimensions being of great importance for the effective working of
the fastening.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. The use for directly fixing cravats to shirts of clasp-studs in two parts and
of suitable shape, one of the said parts passing through the button holes of the
shirt and the other part being fixed to the cravat, substantially as hereinbefore
described.
2. A fastening for ties and cravats consisting of a clasp-stud in two parts A
and B, one of the said parts being formed of a case or tube 1 of different
diameters having its two edges turned over and enclosing a disc or ring 2 of
india-rubber or other suitable elastic material provided with an aperture of conical
or cylindrical shape or rounded at its edges and serving as a spring, and a plate 5
or a neck band of suitable shape and material fixed to the case or tube 1 and
serving for fixing this part of the stud to the cravat and a lining secured between
the part B and the plate or neck band and serving to conceal the latter; the
second part of the clasp-stud having the form of an ordinary shirt stud of form
and dimension suitable to the first part and designed to pass through the button
holes of the collar and the aperture of the india-rubber washer, substantially as set
forth.
3. In a fastening for ties and cravats a stud the part A of which is terminated
by an india-rubber ball forming a spring and the part B formed with a cavity of
the shape shewn in Figures 3 and 5 of the accompanying drawings.
4. The combination with the herein described fastening for ties and cravats and
a clasp-stud such as is referred to in Claims 1 and 2, of a partial spring neck
band in one or more parts fixed to the part B of the stud and secured with it to
the back of the cravat, substantially as set forth.
5. In a fastening for ties and cravats the arrangement of the plates 5 fixed on
the part B of the stud by the turned-over portion 6 and serving to fix this part B
to the cravat, substantially as set forth.
6. In a fastening for ties and cravats the employment of a fabric or suitable
lining fixed with the plate 5 or with the neck band to the part B of the stud and
serving to fix or conceal the whole arrangement on the cravat, substantially as set
forth.

page_text: 7. In a fastening for ties and cravats the arrangement of an elastic aperture
(serving to hold the head of the stud A) made in an elastic plate, or rendered
elastic in a rigid plate by strips forming a spring arranged on the edge of the
aperture, the said plate being sewn to the back of the cravat, substantially as set
forth.
8. The improved fastenings for ties and cravats hereinbefore described and
illustrated in the various figures of the accompanying drawings.
Dated this 13th day of January 1894.
G. F. REDFERN & Co.,
4, South Street, Finsbury, London, Agents for the Applicant.