IMPROVEMENTS APPARATUS FOR EFFECTING BUTTON-HOLE STITCHING
Year: 1876

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Thomas Rose, of No. 9, Camden Street, Peckham, in the
County of Surrey, Engineer, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS
APPARATUS FOR EFFECTING BUTTON-HOLE STITCHING."
IN
Sealed the 24th November 1877, and dated the 28th September 1876
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Thomas Rose at the Office
of the Commissioners of Patents on the 28th September 1876.
THOMAS ROSE, of No. 9, Camden Street, Peckham, in the County of Surrey,
Engineer. "IMPROVEMENTS IN APPARATUS FOR EFFECTING BUTTON-HOLE STITCHING."
The object of the Invention is increased simplicity in use.
In effecting button-hole stitching the supporting table or plate, on which the
portion of fabric to be stitched is held, is required to be capable of a compound
motion, and according to my Invention, whilst the longitudinal motion for the
side of a hole or other series of stitches is effected by screw motion as heretofore,
the motion to the screw for traverse in one or other direction is effected by the
studs or teeth from one or other of a pair of revolving plates being slided into position
for acting on the teeth of a pinion on the screw shaft, or the screw shaft may be
allowed to remain at rest by the plates being slided into position for their pins or
teeth to be free of such pinion. These plates are applied to or formed on a hollow
spindle or collar so as to be controlled to revolve with, whilst being capable of
motion endwise on a supplemental shaft driven by the driving shaft. By these
means the plates carrying the pins or teeth are moved on the supplemental shaft to
and fro the pinion on the screw shaft. The hollow collar carrying the plates also
carries three cam or tappet surfaces to revolve with that collar for acting as selected
on a truck or bowl or other suitable surface connected to or forming part of the
table or plate supporting the portion of fabric under operation in order to effect the
required variation in the relations of that table or plate and the consequent changes
to the stitches, as for the respective sides and ends when stitching for a button hole.
The bowl or operating surface is kept to the cam or tappet surface for the time in
operation by spring pressure.
The traverse of the collar so as to bring one or other of the cam or tappet
surfaces and also the required set of pins or teeth into operation on the pinion, or
for both sets of such pins or teeth to be clear of that pinion, according to the
requirements of the case, is effected by leverage acting by a fork in the neck of such
collar, operating by excentric or crank pin and lever arm.

page_text: The relative directions of motion to the table or plate may be varied, when the
connections between the parts will be varied to the effect desired.
In place of the whole supporting table or plate being caused to vibrate in the
desired directions only so much of it as will serve to effect the object may have the
desired motion given to it whilst the rest is a fixture.
•
By these improvements parrellel lines are obtained to the respective side stitches
of a button hole and more perfect work is produced.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said Thomas Rose in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 28th March 1877.
THOMAS ROSE, of No. 9, Camden Street, Peckham, in the County of Surrey,
Engineer. "IMPROVEMENTS IN APPARATUS FOR EFFECTING BUTTON-HOLE STITCHING."
The object of the Invention is increased simplicity in use.
In effecting button-hole stitching the supporting table or plate, on which the
portion of fabric to be stitched is held, is required to be capable of compound
motion, and according to my Invention, whilst the longitudinal motion for the
side of a hole or other series of stitches is effected by screw notion as heretofore,
the motion to the screw for traverse in one or other direction is effected by the
-studs or teeth from one or other of a pair of revolving plates being slided into
position for acting on the teeth of a pinion on the screw shaft, or the screw shaft.
may be allowed to remain at rest by the plates being slided into position for their
pins or teeth to be free of such pinion. These plates are applied to or formed on a
hollow spindle or collar so as to be controlled to revolve with whilst being capable
of motion endwise on a supplemental shaft driven by the driving shaft. By these
means the plates carrying the pins or teeth are moved on the supplemental shaft to
and fro the pinion on the screw shaft. The hollow collar carrying the plates also
carries three cam or tappet surfaces to revolve with that collar for acting as selected
on a truck or bowl or other suitable surface connected to or forming part of the
table or plate supporting the portion of fabric under operation in order to effect
the required variations in the relations of that table or plate and the consequent
changes to the stitches as for the respective sides and ends when stitching for a
button hole.
The bowl or operating surface is kept to the cam or tappet surface for the time
in operation by spring pressure.
The traverse of the collar, so as to bring one or other of the cam or tappet
surfaces, and also the required set of pins or teeth into operation on the pinion, or
for both sets of such pins or teeth to be clear of that pinion, according to the
requirements of the case, is effected by leverage acting by a fork in the neck of such
collar operating by eccentric or crank pin and lever arm.
The relative directions of motion to the table or plate may be varied when the
connections between the parts will be varied to the effect desired.
In place of the whole supporting table or plate being caused to vibrate in the
desired directions only so much of it as will serve to effect the object may have the
desired motion given to it whilst the rest is a fixture.
By these improvements parallel lines are obtained to the respective side stitches
of a button hole, and more perfect work is produced.
But that the Invention may be the better understood I will by the aid of the
accompanying Drawings proceed to describe means pursued by me in carrying the
same into effect.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.
Figure 1 shows a sectional plan view; Figure 2, a side view; Figures 3 and 4,
transverse sections; and Figure 5, an end view of parts of a lock stitch sewing

page_text: Figures
separately.
7, and 8 represent outline views of the cam surfaces employed
In each of the views the same letters are employed to indicate corresponding parts.
a, a, represent parts of the main framing or stationary parts of the apparatus; b is the
main or driving axis upon which are applied the hand wheel b', the pulley wheel 6º,
and also the cams or tappets enclosed in the frame a¹ for operating the needle lever
and the slide for operating the shuttle. Upon this shaft b is also affixed the
pinion (represented by dotted lines in Figure 2), the teeth of which take into the
teeth of the tooth wheel c¹ affixed on the shaft or axis c, and the relative sizes of
these tooth wheels 69 and c¹ is such as to cause the shaft c to make but one
revolution to two of the shaft or axis b. Both shafts or axes b and c are supported
in the usual way freely to revolve in bearings carried by the main framing a.
According to the arrangement shown by these Figures now under description the
supporting table or plate is formed in two parts d and e. The portion d is
stationary, whilst the part e is capable of movement lengthwise and transversely as
it supports the fabric being operated upon. The longitudinal motion in either
direction to the plate e is effected by rotary motion in the direction desired to the
screw shaft f, and this screw shaft is supported stationarily in bearings a² so as to be
capable of simply revolving in either direction, and a portion of this shaft f is formed
with the screw, thread f¹ thereon which passes through a correspondingly formed
thread in the block g, and this block g whilst it is formed to slide in the direction
of the length of the axis fand in an opening d¹ formed for it through the plate & it
also embraces by a V shaped and adjustable opening the correspondingly V shaped
edges of the transverse bar which is affixed to the plate c, and projects at one end
to bear against the upper end of the lever arm i to which that end of the bar h is
borne by means of the spring h¹ by one end of that spring h¹ being held by a stud h²
projecting from the plate g, whilst the other end of that spring is connected to one
end of the pin h³ projecting from the bar h.
Rotary motion in the direction and when desired is given to the screw shaft ƒ by
means of teeth j, k, projecting inwards from the side surfaces of the discs or
wheels j and k, and these two discs with the cam surfaces formed on one of them
and presently to be described are capable of simultaneous sliding motion endwise on
the shaft c. For this purpose the discs j and k are applied to or formed on a tube 1³,
which whilst it is controlled by a fin or feather to rotate with the shaft or axis c is
yet capable of sliding endwise on that shaft, so that the pins ₁ projecting from the
disc or wheel j, or the pins k projecting from the wheel k may be brought into
position to act on the teeth of the small wheel ƒ affixed on the end of the shaft f;
or the tube may be held in position for the teeth projecting from both discs or
wheels j and in the rotation thereof with the axis c missing the teeth of the
wheel f, and thus for the time leaving the shaft fat rest whilst the other parts of
the apparatus are in motion. This endway movement of the tube with its
wheels j and k is effected by means of the lever 3, the lower end of which rests in a
neck or recess formed in that tube, whilst it is supported to turn on a fixed stud
or axis of motion is, and at its upper end is by pin joint connected to one end of
the link, the other end of which turns upon the crank pin or stud projecting
from the plate formed on or applied to the axis or shaft, which is supported to
turn in a projection from the main framing, and at its other end has applied to it
the boss and actuating handle 111.
For the movements of the plate e in transverse directions, the arm i is fixed to
the shaft i¹, and this shaft is supported to rock in parts of the main framing, and it
has also affixed to it an arm is, the outer end of which is formed as an axis to receive
the small truck or bowl which rests on the surface of the periphery of the disc k,
and this periphery is formed into three parts to act as cam courses to control the
movement of the arm and thence through the axis and arm i to produce
variations in the transverse motion of the plate e. These surfaces are marked
respectively, k³, and k, and their relative form is represented by the diagrams
Figures 6, 7, and 8. Thus when the tube is moved as above explained, so that

page_text: Whilst
the studs act on the pinion f, the screw thread on the shaft f will progressively
move the plate e in one direction longitudinally in order that the successive stitches
may be laid correctly side by side down that one side of the button hole.
the studs are thus operating on the pinion f the cam surface will, by operating
the wheel, cause the transverse traverse of the table e for the desired length of
stitch, and when these stitches for that side of the button hole have been completed
the operator will by means of the leverage above referred to shift the tube j², so that
the studs of both plates j and k will for a time both miss the teeth of the pinion f
and then the cam surface of the periphery of the plate k will operate on the small
truck or bowl is to cause the plate e to move transversely a greater distance, or that
equal to the stitching across both sides of the button hole, or what is called forming
the "bar" or end stitching to the extent desired, and during this operation or
When the
'barring" the longitudinal motion to the plate e will be suspended.
"
operator has worked the "bar" to the extent desired, he will then by the means
stated shift the tube so that the cam surface will come into operation on the
small truck or bowl whilst the studs ¹ of the plate k will come into operation on
the opposite side of the pinion to cause the shaft f to rotate in the opposite
direction when the plate e will be caused to move progressively backwards for the
purpose of laying in the stitches successively for the opposite side of the button hole,
to move the
and the cam surface will, through the arms i, 22, cause the table
required distance for those stitches until that side of the button hole has been formed,
when the operator will again by the means described cause an endway motion to
be given in the opposite direction to the tube 2, so as again to cause the studs of
both plates j and k to miss the teeth of the pinion f2 and again bring the cam or
tappet surface into position to operate on the small bowl or roller is for the
formation of the "bar" at the opposite end of the button hole to the extent desired,
and then the stitching of the button hole will be complete and the work will be
shifted for the formation of the stitching of the next button hole as before. I is a
spring holding plate for holding the work during the stitching.
The screw shaft f may be caused to rotate for adjustment of position of the plate e
by acting on the milled end thereof f³, when the teeth of the wheel f2 are free of
the teeth jor k¹. z is a friction clip to prevent the axis f from over shooting.
Figures 9 and 10 show by plan and side views a modification of the above adapted
to afford capabilities for effecting variations both in the lengths of the stitches and
of their distance apart. The same letters used to indicato corresponding parts in
the previous Figures are employed in this case. In this case the table or plate e is
capable of altogether moving in both directions, but in this case the screw thread ƒ¹
formed on the screw shaft passes through a corresponding female screw formed
for it in the block m, which is connected to one end of the lever m¹ by means of
the screw pin m², which is capable of being shifted so as to vary the point of
connection of the block m with that end of the lever m³, and thereby vary the
distance of motion of that lever m¹. This lever m¹ is supported to turn on the fixed
stud m³, and at its other end it is connected by pin joint with the sliding piece mo
which is supported to be capable of travelling in a slot formed for it in the under side
of the plate e, and of thereby giving the desired progressive transverse motion to
the plate e for the formation of progressive stitches to the sides of the button hole.
The motions to this plate or table e for the respective lengths of the stitches is
obtained from the cam surfaces k³, ³, and k, as already explained, but the truck or
bowl is in this case applied with capability of adjustment to the lower part of a
lever n which is supported to rock on a stationary pin or axis n³, and at its upper
end is acted upon by a spring n with a tendency to keep the truck or bowl is
bearing against the cam surfaces. The lower part of this lever n is also connected,
with capability of adjustment, to one end of the rod n³ which is attached to the
piece o and at its outer end is guided in its to-and-fro motion by passing through
an opening formed for it in the table or plate e. A portion o¹ of the piece o rises up
through the slotted opening e¹ formed for it in the plate e, and that opening e¹ is
formed to embrace the part o¹ of the piece e on the two sides of it corresponding

page_text: with the direction of the length of the rod n³, so that any endway motion given to
the rod 8 will be imparted in like manner to the plato e, at the same time the
opening e¹ in a transverse direction is in length adapted to admit of the plate e
sliding transversely on the part o¹ as the plate e is operated for that purpose by the
screw motion f. By this arrangement of the parts facility is afforded for variations
in the extent of the respective motions. The part o¹ has formed in it the hole o² for
the passage of the needle.
Having thus described my Invention, and means which I adopt in carrying the
same into effect, I would have it understood that I do not confine myself to the
precise arrangements of parts as shown and described, as these may be varied
without departing from the peculiar character of the Invention, but what I do claim
is,-
First. The arranging or combining parts of apparatus for effecting button-hole
stitching that intermittent rotary motion to the screw shaft may be given by studs
from revolving plates, or that such shaft may be allowed to remain at rest without
rotation whilst the other parts are in operation by the stud plates and the cam
surfaces for effecting the respective motions of the moveable table being capable of
sliding on their axis of motion, so as to move the actuating pins into position to
operate on the teeth of the pinion on the screw shaft in the direction for the time
desired, or so that those pins may miss the teeth of such pinion, substantially as
described.
And, Secondly. I claim the arranging or combining parts of apparatus for effecting
button-hole stitching, whereby facility is afforded for varying the extent of the
respective motions during such stitching, substantially as described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Thomas Rose, have hereunto set my hand
and seal, this Twenty-fourth day of March, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and seventy-seven.
Witness,
ALFRED GEORGE BROOKES,
62, Chancery Lane, London.
THOMAS ROSE. (L.S.)