IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE MEMORANDUM OF ALTERATION enteredings fors
Year: 1852

page_text: In the. Matter of Letters Patent granted to Andrew Lawson Knox
of Glasgow, in the County of Lanark, North Britain, Manufacturer,
the Fifth day of November, in the year of our Lord One thousand
eight hundred and fifty-two, for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE
MEMORANDUM OF ALTERATION entered pursuant to an Act passed in
the 5th and 6th years of the reign of His late Majesty King William
the 4th, intituled "An Act to amend the Law touching Letters Patent for
Inventions."
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, J, ANDREW
LAWSON KNOX, of Glasgow, in the County of Lanark, North Britain, send
greeting.
WHEREAS Her Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters Patent under the
Great Seal of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, bearing
date at Westminster, the Fifth day of November, in the sixteenth year. of
Her reign, did grant unto me, the said Andrew Lawson Knox, my executors,
administrators, and assigns, the sole privilege of making, using, exercising, and

page_text: vending my said Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OR PRODUC-
TION OF ORNAMENTAL FABRICS," within the United Kingdom of Great Britain
and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, during the term of four-
teen years thence next ensuing: And whereas, in pursuance of a proviso in the
said Letters Patent contained, I, the said Andrew Lawson Knox, did, within
six calendar months next after the date of the said Letters Patent, cause an
instrument in writing under my hand and seal, particularly describing and
ascertaining the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is
to be performed, (commonly called the Specification) to be filed in the Great
Seal Patent Office: And whereas, in order that the public may have the most
ample benefit from the same, I am desirous of substituting, in lieu of the words
"the colors in the pattern are cut or lashed in the usual manner," in the said
Specification, the words following (that is to say):-"the card holes for the
"colors in the pattern are cut, or the simple is lashed, after the following
principle:-As regards the jacquard cards, the cutter cuts or produces the
pattern holes in the cards for the design for the first side of the piece, in
"this sequence: supposing the hole for the first needle, No. 1, or 'odd'
"needle, is cut, then No. 2, or even needle hole, is missed, and No. 3 needle
" hole is cut, and so on throughout."
66
"
NOW KNOW YE, that by and with the leave of Sir Alexander James
Edmund Cockburn, Her Majesty's Attorney General, and for the reason afore-
said, I, the said Andrew Lawson Knox, do hereby alter the said Specification,
by substituting for the words "the colors in the pattern are cut or lashed in
"the usual manner," in the said Specification contained, the words " the card
"holes for the colors in the pattern are cut, or the simple is lashed, after the
following principle:-As regards the jacquard cards, the cutter cuts or pro-
duces the pattern holes in the cards for the design for the first side of the
piece in this sequence: supposing the hole for the first needle, No. 1, or
""odd' needle, is cut, than No. 2, or the 'even' needle hole, is missed, and
"No. 3 needle hole is cut, and so on throughout."
66
"
"
And I, the said Andrew Lawson Knox, do hereby declare that the said
Specification, when the said alteration shall have been made, will be in the
words following, that is to say :-

page_text: 65
"
"WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
"Patent, bearing date the Fifth day of November, in the year of our Lord
"One thousand eight hundred and fifty-two, in the sixteenth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me,
"the said Andrew Lawson Knox, Her special licence that I, the said
"Andrew Lawson Knox, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such
"others as I, the said Andrew Lawson Knox, my executors, administrators,
or assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time
" and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and
lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom
"of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an
Invention for 'IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OR PRODUCTION OF ORNA-
"MENTAL FABRICS,' upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said
"Andrew Lawson Knox, by an instrument in writing under my hand and
"seal, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Inven-
tion, and in what manner. the same was to be performed, and cause the
"same to be filed in the Great Seal-Patent Office within six calendar months
"next and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
66
66
"
"NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Andrew Lawson Knox, do hereby
" declare the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to
be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement, that is to say :-
66
6
"My said Invention relates to the manufacture of ornamental fabrics, such
" as shawls, ladies dresses, and what are technically known as zebras,' in
"such manner that a totally distinct and perfect pattern may be simultaneously
"produced on each side of the woven fabric. The Invention may be carried
"into effect either by the jacquard, or simple, or other pattern, or figuring
mounting; but when the jacquard is used, the pattern cards are so punched
or cut with pattern holes that each individual card, may indicate or produce
"two distinct devices in the loom; and the result of the interweaving of the
"weft threads is that a duplex pattern fabric is produced, shewing two accu-
"rate figures, with the peculiarity that no two colors shall be opposite to each
"other, or occupying the same spaces on the two sides of the piece. A similar
"effect may be produced by other mountings, as must be evident to the
"practical weaver; and instead of producing two figured surfaces it is to be
"understood that one side may be woven as a plain colored piece, whilst the
other bears an ornamental figure in two or more colors, so that the wearer

page_text: "of the dress may have a choice either of wearing two patterns in the same
"dress, reversible at pleasure, or a plain colored dress at one time and a
"figured one at another. The essential features of this Invention then is,
that by it the same weft thread produces two distinct figures or devices,
one on each side of the fabric; that is, that the weft is caused to appear
on either of the two sides of the piece, as required by the design, or it
" is retained, as it were, in the centre of the fabric's thickness and kept
"out of view until wanted. In manufacturing fabrics of this class, the
"designer employs two or more designs, taking care that the color used
"to produce the design on one side of the goods is not arranged to be brought
"into play on the corresponding part of the other side. And in cutting the
"cards or lashing the simple for the first side of the piece, the card holes for
"the colors in the pattern are cut, or the simple is lashed, after the following
principle: As regards the jacquard cards, the cutter cuts or produces the
"pattern holo in the cards for the design for the first side of the picce, in
"this sequence: supposing the hole for the first needle, No. 1, or 'odd'
needle, is cut, then No. 2, or the 'even' needle hole, is missed, and No. 3
"needle hole is cut, and so on throughout; but in arranging the opposite side,
"these colors are left out at the parts corresponding with those where the
"same colors come in on the first side. For example, if red is the colour to
"be cut, all the red that appears in this first pattern is actually cut, but the
"red appearing on the second pattern is left, and all the space intervening is
.66
66
65
"
66
GE
cut as red, thereby throwing the red, when not wanted to form the pattern
on either side, between the two pattern surfaces. The whole of the ties and
"connections of the harness, of whatever kind the harness may be, are
"arranged either as in the ordinary system of weaving figured goods, or by
tyeing the harness for the warp used on each side; the essential feature of
my Invention being the system I adopt in primarily arranging the govern-
ing mechanism of the pattern or device, so that a distinct pattern may
appear on each surfaco of the piece, the respective colored threads being
successively made to appear on the two opposite sides of the picce, or kept
"in the centre thereof, accordingly as the pattern on either side demands the
presence or absence of the colors in question.
66
66
66
65
66
44
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of my said
Invention, and the manner in which the same is or may be used or carried
"into effect, I may observe, in conclusion, that I do not confine or restrict
myself from the precise details or arrangements which I have had occasion
26

page_text: "to describe or refer to, as many variations may be made therefrom without
"deviating from the principles or main features of my Invention; but what I
consider to be novel and original, and therefore claim as the Invention
"secured to me by the herein-before in part recited Letters Patent, is,―
First, the system or mode of producing a distinct pattern on each side of
a woven fabric by the amalgamation of two or more designs, as herein-
"before described.
"Second, the system or mode of arranging and working the figuring
"harness or connections of ornamental fabrics, so as to produce distinct
"patterns on each side of the goods, with one and the same set of threads
"or yarns.
"In witness whereof, I, the said Andrew Lawson Knox, have hereunto
"set my hand and seal, the Second day of May, One thousand eight
"hundred and fifty-three.
ANDREW L. KNUA.
(LS.)
In witness whereof, I, the said Andrew Lawson Knox, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, the Thirteenth day of November, One thousand
eight hundred and fifty-five.
WILLIAM JOHNSON, Civil Engineer,
of 166, Buchanan Street, Glasgow.
To the Commissioners of Patents for Inventions.
I hereby grant my fiat giving leave to the above-mentioned Andrew
Lawson Knox to file in the Great Seal Patent Office, with the Specification
to which the same relates, the above-written Disclaimer and Memorandum of
Alterations.

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Andrew Lawson Knox, of Glasgow, in the
County of Lanark, North Britain, Manufacturer, for the Inven-
tion of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OR PRODUCTION OF
ORNAMENTAL FABRICS."
Sealed the 18th April 1858, and dated the 5th November 1852.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Andrew Lawson
Knox at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his
Petition, on the 5th November 1852.
I, ANDREW LAWSON KNOX, of Glasgow, in the County of Lanark;
North Britain, Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of the said.
Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OR PRODUCTION OF
ORNAMENTAL FABRICS" to be as follows:-
This Invention relates to the manufacture of ornamental fabrics, such
as shawlls, ladies dresses, and what are technically known as "zebras,"
in such manner that a totally distinct and perfect pattern may be pro-
duced on each side of the woven fabric. The Invention may be carried
into effect either by the jacquard or other pattern mounting; but when:

page_text: the jacquard is used, the pattern cards are so punched or cut with
pattern holes that each individual card may indicate or produce two
distinct devices in the loom; and the result of the interweaving of the
weft threads is that a duplex pattern fabric is produced, shewing two
accurate figures, with the peculiarity that no two colours shall be oppo-
site to each other, or occupying the same spaces on the two sides of the
piece. A similar effect may be produced by other mountings, as must
be evident to the practical weaver. And instead of producing two
figured surfaces it is to be understood that one side may be woven as
a plain coloured piece, whilst the other has an ornamental figure in
two or more colours, so that the weaver of the dress may have a choice
either of weaving two patterns in the same dress, reversible at pleasure,
or a plain coloured dress at one time, and a figured one at another. The
essential feature of this Invention then is that by it the same weft
thread produces two distinct figures or devices, one on ench side of the
fabric; that is, that the weft is caused to appear on either of the two
sides of the piece as required by the design, or it is retained, at is were,
in the centre of the fabric's thickness, and kept out of view until
wanted.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Andrew Lawson Knox in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 5th May 1853.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I,
ANDREW LAWSON KNOX, of Glasgow, in the County of Lanark, North
Britain, Manufacturer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Fifth day of November, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-two, in the sixteenth
year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and
grant unto me, the said Andrew Lawson Knox, Her special licenco
that I, the said Andrew Lawson Knox, my executors, administrators,
and assigns, or such others as I, the said Andrew Lawson Knox,

page_text: my executors, administrators, or assigns, should at any time agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter
during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make,
use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain
and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OR PRODUCTION OF ORNAMENTAL
FABRICS," upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said Andrew
Lawson Knox, by an instrument in writing under my hand and seal,
should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Inven-
tion, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the
same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar
months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters
Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Andrew Lawson Knox, do
hereby declare the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascer-
tained in and by the following statement, that is to say:
My said Invention relates to the manufacture of ornamental fabrics,
such as shawls, ladies dresses, and what are technically known as
"zebras," in such manner that a totally distinct and perfect pattern
may be simultaneously produced on each side of the woven fabric. The
Invention may be carried into effect either by the jacquard or simple
or other pattern, or figuring mounting; but when the jacquard is used
the pattern cards are so punched or cut with pattern holes, that each
individual card may indicate or produce two distinct devices in the
loom; and the result of the interweaving of the weft threads is that a
duplex pattern fabric is produced, shewing two accurate figures, with the
peculiarity that no two colours shall be opposite to each other, or occu-
pying the same spaces on the two sides of the piece. A similar effect
may be produced by other mountings, as must be evident to the practical
weaver. And, instead of producing two figured surfaces, it is to be
understood that one side may be woven as a plain coloured piece, whilst
the other bears an ornamental figure in two or more colours, so that the
wearer of the dress may have a choice either of wearing two patterns
in the same dress, reversible at pleasure, or a plain coloured dress at one
time, and a figured one at another. The essential feature of this Inven-

page_text: tion then, is that by it the same weft thread produces two distinct
'figures or devices, one on each side of the fabric; that is, that the weft is
caused to appear on either of the two sides of the piece as required
by the design, or it is retained, as it were, in the centre of the fabric's
thickness, and kept out of view until wanted.
In manufacturing fabrics of this class, the designer employs two or
more designs, taking care that the colour used to produce the design
on one side of the goods is not arranged to be brought into play on the
'corresponding part of the other side. And in cutting the cards or lash-
ing the simple for the first side of the piece, the colours in the pattern
are cut or lashed in the usual manner; but in arranging the opposite
side, these colours are left out at the parts corresponding with those
where the same colours come in on the first side. For example, if red
is the colour to be cut, all the red that appears in this first pattern is
actually cut, but the red appearing on the second pattern is left, and all
the space intervening is cut as red, thereby throwing the red, when not
wanted to form the pattern on either side, between the two pattern sur-
faces. The whole of the ties and connections of the harness, of whatever
kind the harness may be, are arranged either as in the ordinary system
of weaving figured goods, or by tycing the harness for the warp used on
cach side. The essential feature of my Invention being the system I
adopt in primarily arranging the governing mechanisin of the pattern
or device, so that a distinct pattern may appear on each surface of the
piece, the respective coloured threads being successively made to appear
on the two opposite sides of the piece, or kept in the centre thereof,
accordingly as the pattern on either side demands the presence or
absence of the colours in question.
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of my
said Invention, and the manner in which the same is or may be used
or carried into effect, I may observe in conclusion that I do not confine
or restrict myself to the precise details or arrangements which I have
had occasion to describe or refer to, as many variations may be mado
therefrom without deviating from the principles or main features of my
Invention; but what I consider to be novel and original, and therefore
claim as the Invention secured to me by the herein-before in part
recited Letters Patent, is,-

page_text: First, the system or mode of producing a distinct pattern on cach
side of a woven fabric by the amalgamation of two or more designs as
herein-before described.
Second, the system or mode of arranging and working the figuring
harness or connections of ornamental fabrics, so as to produce distinct
patterns on each side of the goods with one and the same set of threads
or yarns.