IMPROVE- OR LEAD
Year: 1873

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Eugène Malhère, of No. 23, Boulevard de
Strasbourg, Paris, Manufacturer, for the Invention of "IMPROVE-
OR LEAD "
Sealed the 5th December 1873, and dated the 16th June 1873.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Eugène Malhère at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on
the 16th June 1873.
I, EUGÈNE MALHÈRE, of No. 23, Boulevard de Strasbourg, Paris,
Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for
" IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF LACE," to be as
follows:-
The new system of machinery for the manufacture of lace which I
have invented has for its object the production of lace by means of
motions which are the automatic translation of those effected by the
spindles in the little hand machine,

page_text: I will speak presently of the placing of the pins for fixing the crossings
momentarily, and content myself by indicating the pins by the letters
o, o. From what precedes it will have been gathered that it is by a
succession of two alternate operations, namely, a rotation of the discs
and a carriage of the bobbins that the crossings necessary for a given
interlacing are produced.
In that which I have taken as an example if there were eight changes
to be produced for an entire transverse series of hexagonal meshes with
the intervention of two placings of the pins. This explanation of the
fundamental principle of my Invention will facilitate the comprehension
of the practical means which I have contrived for its execution.
I will commence by describing the principal organs of my system,
which are shown separately and at about their actual size in Figures
3 to 22.
The Rotating Discs, Figures 3, 4, and 5.-Each rotating disc a is
mounted at the end of a pin or axle al screw cut at its other end to
receive a holding nut. The disc is provided with a diametrical groove
a² serving as a slide to the tail of the bobbin carriage, which is also
guided by the branches of the T, a³, which projects in the prolongation
of the disc. Two little springs a³, a³, press upon the heel of the bobbin
carriages, and hold them adherent during the revolution of the discs.
The Bobbin Carriages, Figures 6, 7, 8 and 9.-One of the bobbin
carriages is shown in clevation at Figure 6, in plan at Figure 7, and in
end view from its heel side at Figure 8. It consists of two parts, the
heel 6 pierced with a hole 6' intended for the passage of the branches of
the T of the disc, and the metallic holder or cage c carrying the
bobbin d.
The heels of the carriages may be made in the form shown at Figure
9, so as to make them slide in grooves formed in the discs, which would
make it unnecessary to provide the latter with the T above mentioned.
The Bobbin, Figures 10, 11, 12 and 13.-The bobbin is fixed to its
axle d (see Figures 10 and 11) by a spiral spring & rivetted upon the
axle and turned down upon the surface of the bobbin after passing
through a transverse slit. Upon the axle d a narrow pulley c is keyed
against one of the cheeks of the bobbin, and in the groove of this pulley
a little friction spring c³ acts, which is fixed to the side of the holder or
42

page_text: cage, and operates as a curb to moderate the unwinding of the thread,
the tension of which is regulated by the action of the spiral spring &².
The bobbin is introduced into its holder by opening, as shown in Figure
12, the door c³, which is connected by a hinge, to the holder of which it
forms one of the longitudinal sides; it is thus very easy to remove an
empty bobbin and replace it by a full one. In order to arrange a larger
amount of thread so as not to require so frequently to change the
bobbins, an elongated form can be given to them, and they can be placed
longitudinally in the holder, as shown at Figure 13, the unwound thread
being guided so as to go out at the centre of the head of the holder.
Pushing Rods for the Movement of the Carriages, Figures 14, 15, 16,
and 17. The organ which I have contrived for moving a bobbin
carriage from one disc to another is similar to the specimen shown in
Figures 14 and 15. It consists of a rod ƒ bent at one end so as to form
the pushing armf1 and terminated at the other end by a little crank f*,
to which is attached the cord of the jacquard. The manner in which
these bent rods act will be clearly understood on looking to Figures 16
and 17, which show in end view and plan a couple of two contiguous
discs. There are two pushing rods to each disc to move the carriages
either to the right or to the left. The pusher strikes the lateral face of
one of the carriages after having passed above the neighbouring carriage
in an oblique grooving made on the top of the heel. The heel of each
carriage is thus formed with four bevil grooves, the object of which is as
seen to allow a free passage to the pushers which should act only upon
the neighbouring carriages. The pusher rods pivot upon themselves.
under the action of the cords f³ pulled by the hooks of the jacquard, and
they are returned to their normal position by the cords f' attached to
weights.
Interior Pallets for the Movement of the Carriages, Figure 18.-
Instead of the pushing rods to produce the movement of the bobbin
carriages I can employ, and I prefer to do so, the mechanical arrange-
ment shown in Figure 18. Here the organs are situated in the interior
of the disc which is hollow as well as its axle or spindle. At the centre
of the disc a are jointed two little pallets e, e, the extremities of which
are attached to the two cords e¹, e¹, which guided by two little rollers
pass through the hollow spindle a to unite themselves with the hooks of
the jacquard. The traction of one of these cords e¹ by suddenly starting
the corresponding pallet e gives the force necessary for expelling the

page_text: carriage from its groove and to send it into the groove of the contiguous
disc. The pallet is recalled into its normal position by the action of a
spring conveniently placed, or of a cord terminated by a weight. The
pallets are as seen solidly connected to the discs, so that they are carried
with them in their rotation, and they can operate the movement of the
bobbin carriages in any direction as well vertically as horizontally.
Arrangements of Gearing by the Command of the Discs in order to
Carry the Rotating Movement to the Spindles and their Discs, Figures
19, 20, 21, and 22.-I employ intermediate arrangements established
upon the principle of hook gearing. One of these arrangements is
shown in front and side elevations at Figures 19 and 20. It consists of
two toothed rollers g and h; the roller g is keyed to the axle a whilst the
other one can turn free upon this axle solicited to approach the first
roller by a spiral spring h. This roller is formed with two grooves h³
and h³, one h² serving for the attachment and enrolment of the cord and
fixed to the hook of the jacquard, and the other h³ for a cord attached to
a weight. It will be understood that when the cord in the groove h² is
pulled by the hook of the jacquard, in the proper direction, the roller h
impelled by the spring h¹ comes to fit its teeth into those of the roller g,
so that by this gearing the pin and its disc are actuated by the rotating
movement communicated to the roller g. In order to limit the course of
this rotation to a semi-revolution I key upon the spindle a¹ near to the
fixed roller g, or I cast upon the former a round stop g¹ cut away in two
flat shoulders 92, 93, and embraced by a stirrup g³, the branches of which
are envelopped by spiral springs g', 9'. These springs fixed at one end
g*.
upon the branches and pressing at the other end upon a fixed support
depending from the frame tend constantly to press the cross piece of the
stirrup against the opposite shoulders of the nut. It therefore follows
that when the nut turns with the spindle the springs yield to the
traction caused by the meeting of the circular part of the nut with the
cross piece, but the rotation is stopped as soon as after having accom-
plished its revolution the nut again presents its flat shoulder to the
cross piece of the stirrup.
The arrangements just described effects the semi-revolutions of the
discs for the movement of the bobbin carriages from one disc to the
neighbouring one upon the same horizontal series. But in circumstances
which I will presently point out it is of importance to cause the bobbin
carriages to pass from a disc of one series to a disc of another parallel

page_text: series, either upper or lower, that is to say, according to a vertical rod.
It is no longer then a semi-revolution but only a quarter of a revolution
which it is necessary to impart to the discs to bring their grooves into
the vertical direction. I have arranged for this purpose a second
arrangement of gearing similar to the first, excepting as concerns the
stop nut. In this case the nut g₁ is formed (see Figures 21 and 22) with
four rectangular shoulders or flattenings instead of two, constituting a
squared piece with circular corners. This pieco is keyed upon the axle
near the fixed gearing roller, the roller being commanded by a special
cord from the jacquard.
1
The developments which have just been made of the nature of the
construction of the organs will have enabled with the aid of the
explanation given at the commencement of this description, the manner
in which the torsion and crossing of the threads is effected in my system
to be well understood. There remains now to show how these organs
are grouped together in order to constitute a machine for the manu-
facture of lace, and also to explain the mechanism that I have contrived
for fixing the crossings.
General Action of the Machine, Figures 23 and 24.-Reduced to its
most simple form a machine constructed according to my system will
comprise a horizontal series of discs provided with their accessory organs
and arranged in a fan shape, as shown in plan in the diagram at
Figure 23.
Each elementary organ of the machine simply indicated by a stroke
in Figure 23 is represented on a larger scale in Figure 24 which is a
longitudinal view. The spindle or axle of the disc is supported by the
two consecutive crowns X, X, which form the circular frame of the
machine. The empty space existing between the two crowns serves for
the lodgment of the pushing rods, and renders the manipulation of the
discs very easy, especially the replacement of the empty bobbins.
If it is desired to make a piece of lace in which all the threads could
be constantly employed, one could limit himself to a single series of
discs corresponding to a band. Upon the frame of the machine as many
similar series would be arranged as bands if the same design were
desired to be manufactured at the same time. The actuating organs
of the upper series could be united to the same organs of the other series

page_text: so as to transmit from one to the other the actions of the jacquard
mechanism.
Grouping of the Discs for the Production of Lace with Slow Threads,
Figure 25.-But more generally the kind of lace manufactured is
composed of full parts of various forms for which it is necessary to have
additional threads which do not work continually. These additional
threads constitute the slow threads, which one should cut in the lace,
and it is necessary during the work to isolate them at certain moments
from the other threads of the net, imitating the mode of working of the
lace maker.
This method is realized in my system by the employment of two series
of parallel and superposed discs which may touch, as shown in Figure 25,
to facilitate the vertical passage of the bobbin carriage from one series
to the other. This couple of two series of discs is designed of the same
width as the band of lace, and the machine will comprise a number of
these couples equal to those of the ribbons of the same pattern to be simul-
taneously produced. Upon one of the series, the upper one for example,
will be the threads working most generally, whilst the additional during
their action are stored upon the lower series, called the rest series, from
whence they may by a vertical sliding be brought to the upper series of
work. It follows from this the thick threads surrounding flowers as well
as the supplementary threads of which there is momentary occasion for
dispersed ornaments in the net can bo at given moments withdrawn
from the general movement, they form thus during this period slow
threads which have to be cut when the lace is cleaned.
Arrangements for Producing Full Portions or Ground.-The lace bottom
foundation in the net or in an ornament can in my system be produced
by the movement of the discs themselves by causing a thread to pass
successively sometimes above and sometimes beneath the other threads.
But it is preferable to give the thread carriage which ought accidentally.
to form the weft a straight course similar to that of the shuttle of a
weaving machine. For this purpose I leave upon the crown of the frame.
between the two series of discs a sufficient interval to form a horizontal
groove. This groove is shaped so as to receive the heels of the bobbin
carriages which, coming from one of the rows of discs, find thus a road
by which to slide horizontally, and throw the wefts between the limits
assigned by the design.

page_text: In order to make the carriage execute the upward and downward
movements which lead them into or take them out of the groove, I may
employ similar organs to the pushing rods or pallets. As to the recti-
linear displacement in the grooves, it can be effected from one place to
another by the pushers of the discs. The threads carried by these discs
constitute their chain threads, and they are spread among the two series
of discs so as to cross one another at each weft, the upper threads alter-
nating with the lower ones.
Principles of the Formation and Fixation of the Crossings.-It will have
been already understood that from the circular form which I have
adopted for my machine (see Figure 23), all the bobbin carriages are
situated at the periphery of the cylindrical frame, and that their threads
part from the circumference, converging towards the centre there is a
little cylinder upon which the manufactured lace is rolled. Each
thread then describes during the rotation of the disc a cone, of which
the base is at the disc, and the summit is at the point of attachment of
the thread with the fabric already made; but in this movement this
thread is crossed with a neighbouring thread, and the point of crossing of
the two threads is at a certain distance from the fabric. It is theso
crossings which it is necessary to bring upon the work, fixing them 2
momentarily until they can maintain themselves by the progress of the
work.
The diagram at Figure 26 clearly explains the method of forming the
crossings; in full lines are represented four threads x, y, z, u, grouped
two by two upon two odd discs. After a half revolution of each disc the 2
threads are crossed two by two and occupy the positions x¹, y¹, z¹, u¹, the
thread carriages x¹ and u³ are then carried laterally upon the inter-
mediate even disc, then by the rotation of that they are crossed together
and brought into the position x³, u³. That fixed, if a pin is placed at
the spot shown by the black point, and if it is pushed in the direction of 3
the arrow it will be understood that it will not only bring about the
crossing, u³, but also the crossings x², y³, and u², 22. It follows there-
fore that one pin will suffice for three crossings, and that it ought to be
placed in the prolongation of the axles of the even discs.
Mechanism of the Needles for Fixing the Crossings, Figures 27 3
and 28. The needles which in my system bring about the crossings are
equal in number to the even discs, as are also the mechanism which
imparts to them the desired motions.

page_text: In the arrangement shown at Figure 27 these motions are rectilinear,
two vertical and two horizontal, forming a rectangular trajectory, as
shown in dotted lines with the arrows. The vertical needlo P is in one
piece with a horizontal bar p' jointed by two parallel arms p³, p², to a
slide 4. It is this slide which receives the movement of the jacquard
through the cord j attached to one of its extremities, the other being
provided with a cord i terminated by a counterweight or recall spring.
The slide q is itself united by two jointed arms 7¹, 7³, with the lower
bar r, which serves to guide its movement.
The raising and falling of the needles is effected by simply drawing on
the cords j and i at the beginning and end of each course. At these
moments all horizontal displacement is momentarily impeded by the
fork 8, one of the notches in which 8 or 8 hooks the tappet ³ fixed to
the bar “; but as soon as the needle is displaced vertically in the desired
length, a length which is limited by the groove q² in which the pivot of
the two intermediate arms q¹, q', plays, an unhooking is effected and
permits the whole of the mechanism to yield to the horizontal traction of
the cords. This effect is accomplished by the two tappets g³ and q*,
which moving with the slide q act respectively upon the rocking lever t,
and the curved branch of the fork 8. The result of these two actions is
the raising of the fork 8, and consequently the disengagement of the
tappet.
All the parts composing this mechanism are cut from a sheet of steel
and constitute together an apparatus of very little thickness. These
apparatus grouped together in fan shape should at the point of con-
vergence present the same breadth as the band of lace.
The arrangement shown at Figure 28 furnishes a more simple solution
of the problem of effecting the progress of the needle. This needle p is
in one piece with an oscillating bar p¹ which tends always to rise under
the action of the spring p³. It therefore remains lifted when it is drawn
by the cord from the jacquard which acts in order to bring about the
crossings; but when the action ceases and the bar p¹ receives the
traction of the cord i with the counterweight it is compelled to lower
until its contact with the rocking levers causes it to disengage the
tappet fixed to the bar r. The setting free thus accomplished the bar
and its needle fall back and remain lowered. They rise again when
they reach the bottom of their course, and the rocking lever 8 impelled
by its spring & puts them again in gear with the tappet 1³.

page_text: When by the play of the mechanism just described the crossings have
been effected at the centre of the machine, the interlacing work for one
series of meshes is effected and the needles fall back to take the fresh
crossings from the following series and so on.
It is needless to enter into the details of the other accessory parts of
my machine, such as the mode of application of the jacquard mechanism
and their actuation, whether by hand or steam.
Regarding the jacquard it is evident that its arrangement will vary
according to the nature of the point and the design of the lace to be
manufactured.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Eugène Malhère in the Great Seal Patent Office
on the 16th December 1873.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, EUGÈNE
MALHERE, of No. 23, Boulevard de Strasbourg, Paris, Manufacturer,
send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Sixteenth day of June, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-three, in the
thirty-sixth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and suc-
cessors, give and grant unto me, the said Eugène Malhère, Her
special licence that I, the said Eugène Malhère, my executors,
administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Eugène
Malhère, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any
time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times
thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might
make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention
for "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF LACE," upon
the condition (amongst others) that I, the said Eugène Malhère,
my executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under
my, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly
describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what
manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed

page_text: in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and
immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Eugène Malhère, do hereby
declare the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same
is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in
and by the following statement thereof, reference being had to the
Drawings hereunto annexed, that is to say :—
The new system of machinery for the manufacture of lace which I
have invented has for its object the production of lace by means of motions
which are the automatic translation of those effected by the spindles in
the little hand machine.
The lace produced by my machinery is not merely a more or less good
imitation of hand made lace but is precisely the same, since it is by the
same mode of working that the two materials are obtained.
In order clearly to explain the arrangement and operation of my
machinery I will commence by explaining the principle by means of
which I have been enabled to effect mechanically the various crossings
of the threads, which in hand work constitute according to their arrange-
ment and number the principal elements of ordinary lace, such as net,
foot or border, flowered, toothed or purl lace.
The essential organs of my system are discs arranged tangentially one
after another, and capable of receiving bobbins of thread mounted
upon little carriages. If it be supposed that on the one hand these discs
can at determined moments turn upon themselves for one-half revo-
lution which takes place in opposite directions with two consecutive
discs, and that on the other hand the bobbin carriages can be carried
from one disc to the other, and be arranged in the order desired among
the whole of the discs which communicate their semi-rotation to them,
it will be readily conceived how I arrive very simply at effectuating the
crossings of the threads necessary for the formation of a given inter-
lacing.
Principle of Work of the Machinery, Figures 1 and 2.-In the Drawing
annexed to this description I show at Figure 1, on an exaggerated scale, a
particular net by way of an example, and at Figure 2 I show the different
positions which the thread bobbins 1, 2, 3, occupy in the discs A, B, C, &
during the different phases of the interlacing work. Thus, first of all

page_text: (position 1) the threads are lodged in the odd dises only, the sign +
indicates the thread proceeding from the net on the left. After a half
turn of these discs in the direction of from the right to the left (position
2) the thread 3 is crossed with the thread 2, the thread 5 with the thread 4
and so on, and the crossings a, a, &c. in Figure 1 are obtained. A portion
of the carriages is then caused to slide in the direction of the diameters
of the points of contact so as to bring the threads 2 and 5 upon the
disc D, and 6 and 9 upon the disc H (position 3). By now effecting the
half-turn of the even discs D and H, the thread 2 is crossed upon the
thread 5, and the thread 6 upon the thread 9 (position 4), which gives 1
the crossings b, b, of Figure 1. The manner in which the crossings c, c,
and d, d, of the net are effected will be clearly seen by looking at the
other positions 5, 6, of the discs.
I will speak presently of the placing of the pins for fixing the
crossings momentarily, and here content myself with indicating the
pins by the letters o, o, o. From what precedes it will have been
gathered that it is by a succession of two alternate operations, namely,
a rotation of the discs and a carriage of the bobbin that the crossings
necessary for a given interlacing are produced.
In that which I have taken as an example there were eight changes a
to be produced for an entire transverse of series hexagonal meshes with the
intervention of two placings of the pins, this explanation of the funda-
mental principle of my Invention will facilitate the comprehension of
the practical means which I have contrived for its execution.
I will commence by describing the principal organs of my system
which are shown separately and at about their actual size in Figures
3 to 22.
The Rotating Discs, Figures 34, and 5.—Each rotating disc a is mounted
at the end of a pin or axle a¹ screw cut at its other end to receive a
holding nut. The disc is provided with a diametrical groove a³ serving &
as a slide to the tail of the bobbin carriages which are also guided by
the branches of the T, a³, which projects in the prolongation of the disc.
Two little springs a³, a*, press upon the heel of the bobbin carriages and
hold them adherent during the revolution of the discs.
The Bobbin Carriages, Figures 6, 7, 8, and 9.-One of the bobbin car-
riages is shown in elevation at Figure 6, in plan at Figure 7, and in end
view from its heel side at Figure 8. It consists of two parts, the heel b

page_text: pierced with a hole intended for the passage of the branches of the
T of the discs, and the metallic holder or cage e carrying the bobbin d.
The heels of the carriages may be made in the form shown at
Figure 9 so as to make them slide in grooves formed in the discs,
which would make it unnecessary to provide the latter with the T above
mentioned.
The Bobbin, Figures 10, 11, 12, and 13.-The bobbin is fixed to its
axis d (see Figures 10 and 11) by a spiral spring & rivetted upon the
axis and turned down upon the surface of the bobbin after passing
through a transverse slit. Upon the axis d a narrow pulley c is keyed
against one of the cheeks of the bobbin, and in the groove of this
pulley a little friction spring c³ acts, which is fixed to the side of the
holder or cage and operates as a curb to moderate the unwinding of
the thread, the tension of which is regulated by the action of the spiral
spring d³. The bobbin is introduced into its holder by opening, as
shown in Figure 12, the door c³ which is connected by a hinge to the
holder of which it forms one of the longitudinal sides; it is thus very
easy to remove an empty bobbin and replace it by a full onc. In order
to arrange a larger amount of thread so as not to require so frequently
to change the bobbins an elongated form can be given to them, and they
can be placed longitudinally in the holder, as shown at Figure 13, the
un wound thread being guided so as to go out at the centre of the head
of the holder.
Pushing Rods for the Movement of the Carriages, Figures 14, 15, 16,
and 17.-The organs which I have contrived for moving the bobbin
carriages from one disc to another are similar to the specimen shown in
Figures 14 and 15. This consists of a rodf, bent at one end so as to
form the pushing armf¹, and terminated at the other end by a little
crank, to which is attached the cord of the jacquard. The manner in
which these bent rods act will be clearly understood on looking to
Figures 16 and 17, which show in end view and plan a couple of two
contiguous discs. There are two pushing rods to each disc to move the
carriages either to the right or to the left. The pusher strikes the
lateral face of one of the carriages after having passed above the neigh-
boring carriage in an oblique grooving made on the top of the heel.
The heel of each carriage is thus formed with four bevil grooves, the
object of which is, as seen, to allow a free passage to the pushers, which

page_text: should act only upon the neighbouring carriages. The pusher rods pivot
upon themselves under the action of the cords fs pulled by the hooks of
the jacquard, and they are returned to their normal position by the
cords fattached to weights.
Interior Pallets for the Movement of the Carriages, Figure 18.—
Instead of the pushing rods to produce the movement of the bobbin
carriages I can employ, and I prefer to do so, the mechanical arrange-
ment shown in Figure 18. Here the organs are situated in the interior
of the disc, which is hollow, as well as its axis or spindle. At the centre
of the disc a are jointed two little pallets e, e, the extremities of which
are attached to the two cords e³, e¹, which, guided by two little rollers
pass through the hollow spindle a to unite themselves with the hooks of
the jacquard. The traction of one of these cords e¹, by suddenly starting
the corresponding pallet e from its position of repose, gives the force
necessary for expelling the carriage from its groove, and to send it into
the groove of the contiguous disc. This pallet is recalled into its normal
position by the action of a spring conveniently placed, or of a cord ter-
minated by a weight. The pallets are, as seen, solidly connected to the
discs, so that they are carried with them in their rotation, and they can
operate the movement of the bobbin carriages in any direction, as well
vertically as horizontally.
Arrangements of Gearing by the Command of the Discs, in order to
Carry the Rotating Movement to the Spindles and their Discs, Figures
19, 20, 21, and 22.-I employ intermediate arrangements established
upon the principle of hook gearing. One of these arrangements is shown
in front and side elevations at Figures 19 and 20. It consists of two
toothed rollers g and h; the roller g is keyed to the axle a, whilst the
other one h can turn free upon its axle solicited to approach the first
roller by a spiral spring h¹. This roller is formed with two grooves h³ and
h³, one h³ serving for the attachment and enrolment of the cord fixed to
the hook of the jacquard, and the other h³ for a cord attached to a weight.
It will be understood that when the cord in the groove 2 is pulled by
the hook of the jacquard in the proper direction the roller / impelled by
the spring h¹ comes to fit its teeth into those of the roller g, so that by
this gearing the pin and its disc are actuated by the rotating movement
communicated to the roller g. In order to limit the course of this
rotation to a semi-revolution I key upon the spindle a near to the fixed
roller g, or I cast upon the former a round stop g¹, cut away in two flat

page_text: shoulders g³, g³, and embraced by a stirrup ³, the branches of which are
enveloped by spiral springs 9, 9*. These springs, fixed at one end upon
the branches, and pressing at the other end upon a fixed support
depending from the frame, tend constantly to press the cross piece of the
stirrup against the opposite shoulders of the nut. It therefore follows
that when the nut turns with the spindle the springs yield to the
traction caused by the meeting of the circular part of the nut with the
cross piece, but the rotation is stopped as soon as after having accom-
plished its revolution the nut again presents its flat shoulder to the cross
piece of the stirrup.
The arrangement just described effects the semi-revolution of the discs
for the movement of the bobbin carriages from one disc to the neigh-
bouring one upon the same horizontal series; but in circumstances which
I will presently point out it is of importance to cause the bobbin
carriages to pass from a disc of one series to a disc of another parallel
series cither upper or lower, that is to say, according to a vertical direc-
tion. It is no longer then a semi-revolution, but only a quarter of a
revolution which it is necessary to impart to the discs to bring their
grooves into the vertical direction. I have arranged for this purpose a
second arrangement of gearing similar to the first, excepting as concerns
the stop nut. In this case the nut g¹ is formed (see Figures 21 and 22)
with four rectangular shoulders or flattenings instead of two, constituting
a squared piece with circular corners. This piece is keyed upon the axle
near the fixed gearing roller, the roller being commanded by a special
cord from the jacquard.
The developments which have just been made of the nature of the
construction of the organs will have enabled with the aid of the explana-
tions given at the commencement of this description the manner in
which the torsion and crossing of the threads is effected in my system
to be well understood. There remains now to show how these organs
are grouped together in order to constitute a machine for the manufac-
ture of lace, and also to explain the mechanism I have contrived for
fixing the crossings.
General Action of the Machine, Figures 23 and 24.-Reduced to its
most simple form a machine constructed according to my system will
comprise a horizontal series of discs provided with their accessory organs
and arranged in a fan shape, as shown in plan in the Diagram at.
Figure 23.

page_text: Each elementary organ of the machine simply indicated by a stroke
in Figure 23 is represented on a larger scale in Figure 24, which is a
longitudinal view. The spindle or axle of the disc is supported by the
two concentric crowns X, X, which form the circular frame of the
machine. The empty space existing between the two crowns serve for
the lodgment of the pushing rods, and renders the manipulation of
the discs and especially the replacement of the empty bobbins very
easy.
If it were desired to make a piece of lace in which all the threads
would be constantly employed one could limit himself to a single series
of discs corresponding to a band. Upon the frame of the machine as
many similar series would be arranged as bands of the same design
were desired to be manufactured at the same time. The actuating
organs of the upper series could be united to the same organs of the
other series so as to transmit from one to the other the actions of the
jacquard mechanism.
Grouping of the Discs for the Production of Lace with Slow Threads,
Figure 25. But more generally the kind of lace manufactured is com-
posed of full parts of various forms, for which it is necessary to have
additional threads which do not work continually. These additional
threads constitute the slow threads which have to be cut in the lace, and
which it is necessary to isolate from the other threads of the net during
certain moments in the working of imitating the method of the hand
lace maker.
This method is realized in my system by the employment of two series
of parallel and superposed discs, which may touch, as shown in Figure
25, to facilitate the vertical passage of the bobbin carriages from one
series to the other. This couple of two series of discs is designed of the
same width as the band of lace, and the machine will comprise a number
of these couples equal to those of the ribbons of the same pattern to be
simultaneously produced. Upon one of the series, the upper one for
example will be the threads working most generally, whilst the additional
threads during their action are stored upon the lower series, called the
rest series, from whence they may by a vertical sliding be brought to the
upper series of work. It follows from this that the thick threads sur-
rounding flowers, as well as the supplementary threads of which there
is momentary occasion for, dispersed ornaments in the net can be at

page_text: given moments withdrawn from the general movement. They form
thus during this period slow threads which have to be cut when the lace
is cleaned.
Arrangements for Producing Full Portions or Ground.-The lace
foundation in the net or in an ornament can in my system be produced
by the movement of the discs themselves by causing a thread to pass
successively sometimes above and sometimes beneath the other threads;
but it is preferable to give the thread carriage, which ought accidentally
to form the weft, a straight course similar to that of the shuttle of a
weaving machine. For this purpose I leave upon the crown of the
frame between the two series of discs a sufficient interval to form a
horizontal groove. This groove is shaped so as to receive the heels of
the bobbin carriages, which coming from one of the rows of discs find
thus a road by which to slide horizontally and throw the wefts between
the limits assigned by the design.
In order to make the carriage execute the upward and downward
movements which lead them into or take them out of the groove I may
employ similar organs to the pushing rods or pallets. As to the recti-
linear displacement in the grooves it can be effected from one place to
another by the pushers of the disc. The threads carried by these discs
constitute thin chain threads, and they are spread among the two series
of discs so as to cross one another at each weft, the upper threads
alternating with the lower ones.
Principles of the Formation and Fixation of the Crossings.-It will
have been already understood that from the circular form which I have
adopted for my machine (see Figure 23) all the bobbin carriages are
situated at the periphery of the cylindrical frame, and that their threads
part from the circumference converging towards the centre; there is a
little cylinder upon which the manufactured lace is rolled. Each thread
then describes during the rotation of the disc a cone of which the base
is at the disc and the summit is at the point of attachment of the thread
with the fabric already made. But in this movement this thread is
crossed with a neighbouring thread, and the point of crossing of the
two threads is at a certain distance from the fabric. It is these
crossings which it is necessary to bring upon the work, fixing them
momentarily until they can maintain themselves by the progress of the
work

page_text: The diagram at Figure 26 clearly explains the method of forming the
crossings. In full lines are represented four threads x, y, z, u, grouped
two by two upon two odd discs. After a half revolution of each disc
the threads are crossed two by two, and occupy the positions x, y, and z, u.
The thread carriages x and u are then carried laterally upon the inter-
mediate even disc; then by the rotation of the latter they are crossed
together and brought into the position x² u. Being so placed, if a pin
is put at the spot shown by the black point and pushed in the direction
of the arrow it is easy to understand that it will not only bring about
the crossing x³, u², but also the crossings x³, y³, and u³, 2³. It follows
therefore that one pin will suffice for these crossings, and that it ought
to be placed in the prolongation of the axes of the even discs.
Mechanism of the Needles for Fixing the Crossings, Figures 27 and
28. The needles which in my system bring about the crossings are equal
in number to the even discs, as is also the mechanism which imparts to
them the desired motions.
In the arrangement shown at Figure 27 these motions are rectilinear,
two vertical and two horizontal, forming a rectangular trajectory, as
shown in dotted lines with the arrows. The vertical needle p is in one
piece with a horizontal bar p¹ jointed by two parallel arms p³, p², to a
slide q.
It is this slide which receives the movement of the jacquard
through the cord j attached to one of its extremities, the other being
provided with a cord i, terminated by a counterweight or recall spring.
The slide q is itself united by two jointed arms r¹, r³, with the lower
barr, which serves to guide its movement.
The raising and falling of the needles is effected by simply drawing
on the cords j and i at the beginning and end of each course. At these
moments all horizontal displacement is momentarily impeded by the
fork 8, one of the notches in which 81, 83, hooks the tappet fixed to
the bar r; but as soon as the needle is displaced vertically in the desired
length, a length which is limited by the groove q², in which the pivot of
the two intermediate arms q', q', plays, an unhooking is effected, and
permits the whole of the mechanism to yield to the horizontal traction
of the cords. This effect is accomplished by the two tappets q³ and q*,
which moving with the slide 9 act respectively upon the rocking lever t
and the curved branch of the fork 8. The result of these two actions is

page_text: the raising of the fork 8, and consequently the disengagement of the
tappet
All the parts composing this mechanism are cut from a sheet of steel
and constitute together an apparatus of very little thickness. These
apparatus, grouped together in fan shape, should at the point of conver-
gence present the same breadth as the band of lace.
The arrangement shown at Figure 28 furnishes a more simple solution
of the same problem of effecting the progress of the needle. This
needle P is in one piece with an oscillating bar p¹, which tends always to
rise under the action of the spring p³. It therefore remains lifted when
it is drawn by the cord j from the jacquard which acts in order to bring
about the crossings; but when this action ceases, and the bar p receives
the traction of the cord i with the counterweight it is compelled to
lower until its contact with the rocking lever a causes it to disengage
the tappet fixed to the bar r. The setting free thus accomplished the
bar and its needle fall back and remain lowered. They rise again when
they reach the bottom of their course, and the rocking lever s impelled
by its spring & puts them again in gear with the tappet r³.
When by the play of the mechanism just described the crossings have
been effected at the centre of the machine the interlacing work for one
series of meshes is effected, and the needles fall back to take the fresh
crossings from the following series, and so on.
It is needless to enter into the details of the other accessory parts of
my machine, such as the mode of application of the jacquard mechanism
and their actuation, whether by hand or steam.
Regarding the jacquard it is evident that its arrangement will vary
according to the nature of the point and the design of the lace to be
manufactured.
And having now described the nature of my said Invention, and in
what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that I claim the
general combination and arrangement of the machinery for the manu-
facture of lace, substantially as herein-before described and shown in
the accompanying Drawings.

page_text: machinery as herein-before described and as shown in the accompanying
Drawings.
In witness whereof, I, the said Eugène Malhère, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, this Seventh day of December, in the
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-
three.
Witness,
ALBERT CAHEN,
Civil Engineer,
of 32, Boulevard do Magenta,
at Paris.
E. MALHÈRE. (L.S.)