IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR DA" PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION
Year: 1871

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Henry Howse, of Fenchurch Street, in the City
of London, and Charles Aubrèy Day, of 14, High Street, Stepney
(both in the County of Middlesex), Mechanical Draughtsman, for
the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR
DA"
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Henry Howse and
Charles Aubrèy Day at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents,
with their Petition, on the 9th December 1871.
We, HENRY HowSE, of Fenchurch Street, in the City of London,
and CHARLES AUBREY DAY, of 14, High Street, Stepney (both in the
County of Middlesex), Mechanical Draughtsman, do hereby declare the
nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS
FOR SEWING," to be as follows:―
1
This Invention relates to improvements in machinery or apparatus

page_text: ""
2. The principle of the Invention (which we term the "Walby
principle) consists essentially in the application, and adaptation to, and
use in, such machinery or apparatus (whether worked by hand, treadle,
steam or other motive power,) of two or more adjustable needles.
3. Sewing machines (by which term we include all kinds or
descriptions of machinery or apparatus for sewing) as hitherto con-
structed, have only been capable of working with one needle, or when
constructed to work with more needles than one the needles have been
fixtures (as in the single needle machines), and consequently not capable
of adjustment so as to regulate their relative distances from each other
in order to make the successive rows of stitches on any fabric at such
distances apart as may be required, according to the nature of the work,
so that in nearly every case with the latter and in all cases with the
single needle machines, the work has to be passed through and operated
upon by the machine as many times as the number of rows of stitches
required.
4. In sewing machines constructed according to or adapted with the
"Walby" principle this necessity will be entirely dispensed with, the
object of its application (in whatever form) being to allow of as many
rows and sets of rows of stitches (each separate row of which may be
made any desired distance from its fellow) as desired being made at one
operation upon any fabric, so that there will not be the necessity for as
many times as the number of rows of stitches required, passing the
work through and operating thereupon by the machines as there has
been hitherto.
5. We will 1st proceed to describe one mode or manner in which we
apply the "Walby" principle to existing or ordinarily constructed
sewing machines, those chiefly adapted for family use, so that each
separate row of stitches may be made at any required distance from its
fellow; and 2nd, a suitable application of the principle to sewing
machinery chiefly adapted or applicable for factory, manufacturing, or
other similar heavy requirements.
6. In the 1st class as an example of its adaptation we will describe
one application of the principle to a sewing machine similar to that
known as a "No. 2 Thomas," but it must be distinctly understood that
tho' the "Walby" principle can be applied to all existing or ordinarily
constructed sewing machines of this class, still in its adaptation the

page_text: various or component parts thereof in certain cases will have to be so
fitted, modified, adjusted, and adapted as to meet the requirements of the
make or manufacture of the sewing machine to which the principle is
applied. When the principle is applied to sewing machines working in
connection with either shuttles, hooks, or loopers, or their equivalents,
only the parts in direct action with the needles require any alteration,
the various parts receiving motion or being actuated as hitherto.
7. In the 1st class tho' there will be practically no limit to the number
of needles employed, still, for the sake of illustration, we will describe the
application of thirteen needles, each of which it must be remembered is
separately adjustable.
8. The needle holder in this case may consist of a flat plate of metal,
say, of about 3 inches long. On one side at (say) ½ inch distances are
made small grooves to hold needles, Nos. 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, and 13 of the
thirteen, and on the other side are made intermediate similar grooves to
The needles in
hold the remaining needles Nos. 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, and 12.
this case being set in two rows a slight distance apart running across the
work passing through the machine, but in some cases, dependant for
the most part upon the number of needles applied and the requirements
of the machines to which the principle is applied, the needles are set in
three or more rows.
9. The needle holder is attached to the needle actuating bar by screws
or is held thereto by equivalent means, and slides in grooves in or formed
by pieces of metal screwed to the arm of the machine, and receives
motion as hitherto.
10. The needles of one of the two rows descend on one side and the
needles of the other row descend on the other side of a middle partition
of a double shuttle race, in each of these two races travels a shuttle, and
these face each other, and directly after the two rows of needles have (at
the same time) penetrated the work and have formed two rows of loops,
the two shuttles (at the same time) pass, one through each row of loops,
and so form a stitch in as many rows or lines of stitches as there are
needles to form the loops.
11. The needles are incapable of being set wrong, being provided with
small projections on their shanks which slide easily in the grooves in the
ncedle holder. The needles are secured in their proper places by thin
metal plates having cemented on or otherwise suitably attached to their
▲ 2

page_text: inner sides small sheets or pieces of rubber, cloth, or other suitable
substance for purposes herein-after set forth. The metal plates are
secured to the needle holder (one on either side) by small easy fitting
screws.
12. When it is required to use any one or more of the thirteen needles
(each ¼ inch apart) the process is as follows:-The screws securing the
thin plates to the needle holder are loosened, but the rubber or cloth still
presses sufficiently against the fronts of the shanks of the needles as to
hold and keep them in position, but at the same time allows of their
being easily moved.
=
13. For example, say that the rows of stitches are required as follows:
-No. 2 row from No. 1 = 1 inch; No. 3 row from No. 2 = ¾ inch;
No. 4 row from No. 3 = ½ inch; No. 5 row from No. 4 ½inch; and
No. 6 row from No. 5 = ½ inch. Then needles Nos. 1, 5, 8, 10, 11, &
13 are used, and one way in which they may all be set together is as
follows:-After loosening the screws, as above mentioned, over the
corresponding holes in the cloth plate of needles Nos. 2, 3, 4, 6, 7, 9, and
12, place a gauge, template, or small strips or pieces of cardboard, or
other suitable substance, and then cause the needle bar once slowly
to descend; the needles meeting with the obstruction are thus pushed up
in the needle holder to such an extent as to be prevented from piercing
the work in descending, whilst the needles required to form the desired
rows remain as before as they pass through their holes in the cloth plate,
after which the plates are again screwed up.
14. The shuttles are adjusted to correspond and work properly with
the needles in use by means of a rod in connection with the shuttle
holder, which rod is suitably fastened to the rod or bar actuating the
shuttles and adjusted as required to a gauge thereon.
15. When the " Walby" principle is adapted to sewing machines
working in connection with hooks or loopers, or their equivalents, in
lieu of shuttles, each hook or looper may be separately set fast upon the
hook or looper shaft, or its equivalent, or they may all be formed upon
the same shaft (or may be capable of sliding thereon and held by screws
for purposes of adjustment, but in all cases they must be adjusted and
set properly upon their shaft so as to work properly and correspond with
the needles.

page_text: 16. It will thus be seen that if certain needles, say Nos. 1, 7, 8, 10, & 13
are used, only the hooks or loopers of these respective needles will catch
in the loops formed by such needles, and so form the separate rows of
stitches; and as the needles Nos. 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 9, 11, and 12 are pushed
up in the needle holder they do not pierce or otherwise injure the fabric
being operated upon.
are used, only the nooks or 100pers of these respective necutes win caten
in the loops formed by such needles, and so form the separate rows of
stitches; and as the needles Nos. 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 9, 11, and 12 are pushed
up in the needle holder they do not pierce or otherwise injure the fabric
being operated upon.
17. Another mode in which we apply the "Walby" principle to
sewing machines of this class is as follows:-
18. Each needle is fitted or held in a small adjustable block through
which passes a screwed rod.
19. These blocks slide (when required to be adjusted) in a race (or
races) in the needle (block) holder, and are operated by the screwed rod
which is screwed in such a manner that when it is turned (by band) it
enables each needle block and its needle to recede from or approach its
fellow, and so move the needles closer together or farther apart to form
the rows of stitches at such distances apart as may be required; for
nearly all practical purposes the nearest will be ¼ of an inch apart, but
according to whatever mode or manner in which we apply the " 'Walby"
principle to sewing machinery or apparatus the needle holders are con-
structed and adjusted in such apparatus so that the needles may be set
so as to make rows as near as ½ inch, or if required (for particular
requirements) nearer.
20. The needles are arranged in rows as above described, and are
separately adjustable (so as to be raised and lowered) by a small screw
passing through each needle block.
21. In this application also it may sometimes be necessary to set the
needles in three or more rows, the nearest needles in each row being 1,rd
inch or th inch apart, so that by turning the screwed rods and then
raising the needles not required to be used, any desired distance apart
of the rows of stitches can be readily obtained, but the former applica-
tion of the "Walby" principle and modifications thereof are preferred
as being easier of manipulation.
22. In this application the method of adjusting the needles not
required so that they will not penetrate the work when descending is as
follows-1st, adjust the needles by the screwed rod and then loosen the
screw holding each of the needles not required, & cause the needle

page_text: actuating bar slowly to descend once (having previously placed over
those parts of a slit or slot in the cloth plate (through which the needles
descend) corresponding to said needles suitable templates, strips, or
obstructions of cardboard or other suitable substance) when the needles
are pushed up so as not to pierce or otherwise injure the work when
descending, after which the screws are refastened.
23. It may be here observed that there are many other ways in which
we adapt and apply the "Walby" principle to sewing machinery, but
the application is in every case dependant upon the manufacture or
requirements of the machinery to which it is applied.
24. By extending parts of the machine the sets of needles may be
placed in separate groups a suitable distance apart to allow of the
traverse of two or more shuttles (in shuttle machines) in each shuttle
race; in other words a distance is left between each two groups or sets
of needles, a little more than the length of the shuttle, by which means
it will be readily seen that the rows of stitches may be made in sets of
rows, and whereas according to the principles on which sewing machines
have been hitherto constructed, it was in nearly every case necessary
to pass the work " through the machine” as many times as there were
rows of stitches required. By the use and employment of sewing
machines constructed according to or adapted with the principle of this
Invention, it is only necessary 1st to adjust the needles as required to
make the rows of stitches, & then to pass the work once through the
machine, which thus effects an immense saving both in time & labor.
25. When this extended arrangement is applied to hook machines,
the hooks (loopers, or equivalents) are set upon their shaft (or shafts) as
above mentioned, a set of hooks being set under each set or group of
needles.
26. When the needles are thus set in groups, one way of actuating
the 2nd group from the 1st and so on, is to connect a vibrating rod
from the top of one needle bar to the bottom of the other and pivot it
at its centre, so that as one needle bar is caused to ascend it causes the
other to descend, and vice versa. According to this arrangement the
shuttles or hooks are properly "timed" to the groups of needles, but
for this class of sewing machines or apparatus it will generally be
sufficient to adapt two groups of needles in such a manner that the 2nd
set or group and its appurtenances can be readily removed.

page_text: 27. It will be seen that if only one needle is required to be used, all
the others can be readily "ungeared" as above described, and the
machine can then be used as an ordinary sewing machine in every way,
so as to braid, gather, embroidery, single sew, hem (narrow and wide),
fell, cord, tuck, bind, or to fulfil any other of the necessities of such
machines, and any of the usual appliances for such purposes can be
applied.
28. A separate reel of cotton or silk, &c., is used to each needle, and
these are so arranged that the threads can be guided through small
beads of glass or similar means so as to be all passed between small
tension rollers, which are caused to receive varying amounts of pressure
according to the nature of the work being operated upon, and the number
of threads in use. If preferred, however, the existing tension devices
machine may
be so amplified as to suit the different require-
ments attendant upon the application of the "Walby" principle.
in
any
29. The work is drawn through the machine by small feed rolls
(instead of existing feed appliances) which receive a rapid intermittent
rotary motion, the degree of rotation at each movement thereof being
caused to vary in such a manner as to give different lengths of stitches
as required, but in all cases the speed is regulated so as to keep time
with the needles, but if preferred the existing feed appliances can be so
modified and adapted as to suit the application of the " Walby " prin-
ciple. These tension and feed rolls however are more applicable to the
2nd class, or that class of sewing machines chiefly adapted for use in
factories, manufacturing purposes, or other similar heavy requirements.
30. In applying the "Walby " principle to this class of sewing
machinery we proceed as follows: In this class however it may be
premised that there cannot practically be any fixed limit to the number
of needles applied and employed.
31. The necessary motion for actuating the various parts is derived
from a steam or other motive-power engine, and is suitably communi-
cated therefrom to a primary shaft, and thence to what we term the
actuating shaft," which is placed at the rear of the sewing apparatus.
$6
32. The "actuating shaft" is held in position by brackets or bearings
made fast to the rear part of the frame of the sewing apparatus, or they
may be bolted or secured to a wall or overhead rafter, or beam, or other

page_text: support at their rear, in places where much machinery cannot be conve-
niently erected.
33. On the actuating shaft at certain distances apart are placed bevil
wheels capable of sliding on feathers or ribs on said shaft, and arc
actuated by hand levers and clutches.
34. These bevil wheels gear into others fast on short transverse shafts,
(which are suitably held by brackets or bearings secured to the framing
or overhung) one (or there may be two) for each set of needles, so that if
any set (or sets) is not required to be used, or for any reason it is re-
quired to readjust or reset the needles in such set for different work,
or in case of breakage or renewal of cotton or other causes by means of
the hand lever and clutch, the bevil wheel (or wheels) on the actuating
shaft in gear with the transverse shaft (or shafts) of the set may be
moved out of gear therewith without stopping any of the others.
35. On the fore end of each transverse shaft is fixed a cam plate pro-
vided with a projecting piece or pin and small friction wheel which takes
in a slot in the needle holder. It will thus be seen that when rotary
motion is imparted to the primary shaft by the means described, it
imparts a rapid reciprocating motion to the needle holder as in ordinary
sewing machines.
36. The needle holders (above described) slide up and down in grooved
standards, which may be secured to the cloth plate or table of the sewing
apparatus, or may be secured to overhung brackets. The needles are
adjusted as herein-before described.
68
"
37. The standards are grooved on either side, and answer a similar
purpose to the arm of ordinary sewing machines, so that if a very wide
fabric is required to be sewn or quilted, or otherwise worked upon, a
separate set of needles can be dropped between any two standards, and
can be secured to the needle holder on either side in such a manner as
to receive motion therefrom, but also so as to be capable of being readily
ungeared therefrom.
38. The cloth plate or table is constructed in such a manner that it
can either be a continuous table or counter, or by pulling certain sliding
parts out will leave only the cloth plate (as in ordinary sewing machines)
under each set of needles.

page_text: 39. When the machinery is constructed to work with either shuttles,
hooks, loopers, or their equivalents, they receive motion in time with
the needles and are suitably actuated from the primary shaft.
40. In this class of sewing machinery the arrangement above described
for the cottons, &c., will be found very applicable, as the stands for the
reels can be supported by the rear brackets, and the threads therefrom
guided separately through the glass beads or other suitable means, and
between the tension rollers as above mentioned. The latter are held in
small bearings and regulated in pressure (as required) according to the
nature of the work by small adjusting screws and springs, or their
equivalents.
41. The feeding arrangements will also be found very applicable, the
rollers receiving a rapid intermittent rotary or other suitable motion (in
time with the needles) from the cam plates or by any other suitable
means, the lengths of the stitches being regulated according to the
degree of rotation imparted at each motion of the rollers.
42. Amongst the advantages to be derived from the use and employ-
ment of sewing machinery constructed according to or adapted with the
Walby" principle may be mentioned an invaluable saving in both time
and labor.
"
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Henry Howse and Charles Aubrèy Day in the
Great Seal Patent Office on the 8th June 1872.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, HENRY
Howse, of Fenchurch Street, in the City of London, and CHARLES
AUBREY DAY, of 14, High Street, Stepney (both in the County of
Middlesex), Mechanical Draughtsman, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Ninth day of December, in the
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-one, in
the thirty-fifth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and
successors, give and grant unto us, the said Henry Howse and Charles
Aubrèy Day, Her special licence that we, the said Henry Howse and

page_text: Specification it has come to our knowledge that such an application has
to a certain (but very imperfect) degree been previously accomplished;
therefore I desire to state that we do not claim such use and application
or adaptation generally; but what we do claim as of our Invention is
the application to sewing machines of two or more adjustable necdlcs,
together with their necessary accessories to form the stitches, in such
manner or manners as is or are herein-after described, or any mere
modification thereof, and especially to the sewing machines herein-after
mentioned or referred to, and to such others as are constructed or work
on principles similar thereto for the purposes described.
3. The Invention will be readily understood on reference being had
to the accompanying Drawings, and to the following description or
explanation thereof.
"
4. I will first describe the manner in which we apply the needles and
accessories to existing or ordinarily constructed machines, or those
chiefly adapted for family use, selecting, for example, a "Thomas
machine, and a 66
Willcox & Gibbs," the former of which, making a lock
stitch, illustrates the application generally to machines of a similar
construction and class, and the latter making a chain or tambour stitch
serves as a similar illustration in respect of machines of this class; and
secondly I will describe the manner in which we apply them to sewing
machinery or apparatus chiefly adapted for factory, manufacturing, or
other similar heavy requirements.
5. In proceeding to describe the application to those of the first class
above mentioned, which are illustrated on the accompanying Drawings,
I would remark that there will be practically no limit to the number of
needles, &c., employed; but for the sake of illustration I will describe
the application of thirteen to the "Thomas," and of five to the "Willcox &
Gibbs," (each of which it must be remembered is separately adjustable
as and for the purposes herein-after described), and for the sake of brevity
I will confine the description or explanation of the accompanying
Drawings to those parts of the machines wherein the improvements
chiefly consist, the other parts being illustrated merely to make the
application more readily ascertained and more completely understood, but
being so well known as not to need any description; and I would further

page_text: 9. The reels a are placed upon pins a¹ of varying diameters (as shown
in dotted lines, Figure 1) and screwed into the top part of the arm g.
Or they may be arranged inclined or horizontally, as illustrated on the
accompanying Drawings and described hereafter in respect to the
"Thomas" machine. Leather or metal washers a are placed above*
the shoulders of the different diameters as they decrease upwards, and
on these the reels rest, so that one does not tend to rotate the next and
loosen its thread. c¹ represents the "tension" (see Figure 11, detail)
which consists of a thumbscrew c² on a screwed rod c', which screws
into the arm 9 (as in the ordinary machine) and of five pairs of glass
or other plates c (one pair for each thread, and between which it is
placed), between the pairs of which are placed thin elastic rubber rings c*.
c³ represents two small metal boxes each containing a spiral spring cª.
When the thumbscrew c³ is turned the pairs of plates c are loosened'
or pressed together by the pressure of the springs cand rings c^, which
in combination allow of the tension being regulated to a great nicety
and evenly to each thread. b is a guide rod screwed into the arm g,
and in which holes b¹ are made, so that the threads may be guided
through the same from the reels to the tension plates without tangling
together. d and frepresent other guide picces which guide the threads.
from the tension plates c to the spring thread guide h, which latter
receiving the motion from the needle rod pulls up and tightens the
stitches, and thus aids in preventing slack of the threads above the
material being operated upon. i represents the friction pad, which is
(or may be) placed on the side of the machine facing the operator, and
is constructed as ordinarily, but with a groove for each thread. j
represents other spring thread guides, through a loop in one of which
each thread from the friction pad is passed, and by which the threads
are spread out so as to pass vertically (or nearly so) down the grooves
in the needles and not receive abrasion or be cut in their passage. k
represents the needle rod which we construct by preference of a square,
triangular, or rectangular section (and to the bottom of which the
needle holder is secured by screws, as shown, or otherwise), so that the
needles cannot fail to work properly and pass through their respective
slots in the cloth plate, the rod not being capable of being turned.
represents the needle holder (sce Figures 6 and 9, detail), which
consists of a rear plate provided with ten inner grooves of a semi-
circular or other suitable shape (three-sixteenths of an inch apart, and
about half the thickness of the needle shanks), and with deeper

page_text: で
recesses to receive projections on the shanks of the said needles, so
that the latter can be placed in any of the grooves and slots, but cannot
be placed in wrong; or the needle shanks and grooves may be other-
wise correspondingly shaped for the same purpose. In the grooves l², P³,
those parts of the shanks of the needles provided with the projections
are placed, and in front of these is placed another plate (provided on
its inner surface with a thin sheet of elastic rubber ) and held to the rear
plate by small screws 18 as and for the purposes herein-after described.
The screws (which may be formed as thumbscrews) are easy fitting, so
as to allow of any required adjustment or removal of the needles at any
moment. m represents the needles (see Figure 10, detail), each of
which (by preference) is made with a projection m³ extending the entire
or partial length of the shank thereof, and has in addition a continuous
straight, inclined, or slightly spiral thread groove m³ down to the eye m³,
so as to guide the thread correctly thereto and in proper position to
form the loops for the loopers. On the side of each groove & adjacent
to the position of the thread groove m³ in the shank of the needle when
the latter is in its place, the plate is made with a slight outward
projection which covers that part of the said thread groove when the
needle is in position, and prevents the rubber being compressed
thereinto so as to stop the passage of the thread. n represents the
presser foot (see Figure 7, detail), which is provided with ten slots n¹
(at three-sixteenths of an inch apart) for the needles to pass through
in any of their positions, and has a square or triangular hole n² in its
stem, which fits accurately a similarly shaped projection n' on the
bottom of its rod no, and is secured thereto by a screw nº (see Figure 2).
o represents the "feed," which is constructed with a feed surface o¹
between each two adjacent needles (see Figure 4, detail). p represents
the cloth plate provided with slots p', p³, corresponding to the positions
of the feed surfaces and of the different positions of the needles
respectively (see Figure 8, detail). 9 represents the looper "guard "
and holder (see Figures 1 and 2 and [Figure 5, detail]) which consists
of a metal case or holder q' pivotted at q³, and working in a curved
dovetailed groove q³ in the fore part of the cross piece q', so that the
loopers q³ are all guided thereby accurately into position. It contains
or carries all the loopers (minus the first or primary one) and their
actuating and adjusting appurtenances. The first one is fixed and
actuated as before, and acts as the primary motor looper, giving
synchronous motion to the others by means of toothed wheels qº, the

page_text: lower ones of which slide freely (when required to be adjusted) in a
groove in a lower shaft q7 supported in brackets q³. The upper ones are
secured by screw axes or other suitable means to their respective loopers
(and so actuate the same), and are held by supports q° which are capable
of adjustment so as to correspond with any desired positions of the
needles and form the rows of stitches as required, as they all act
simultaneously through the loops of their respective needles. At the
bottom of each of the supports is a flat, round, square, or rectangular
plate q, which slides truly on the inner bottom surface of the case q¹,
and under which are other rectangular slide pieces qb, which fit snugly
in an aperture or slit in the bottom of the case, and are secured
underneath in any desired positions by the thumbscrews qª. The
length of the slide pieces qb corresponds exactly to the nearest distances
at which the needles can be worked (three-cighths of an inch in the
machine illustrated). The case q' is held up in position by a finger
catch q° (see Figure 2), which engages with a slight projection thereon,
and so keeps the two first wheels q' in gear and all the parts in working
position. It is also supported at its outer end by a swing piece q'
(Figure 1) for a similar object. In one modification in the arrangement
of these component parts the threads are all carried on the other sido
of the machine, to allow the needle arm to work outside the needle rod
(& not between it & the arm g, as shown, and) to leave the side of the
machine nearest the operator comparatively clear.
10. Figures 12 are Diagrams illustrating the manner in which we
actuate a second set of needles from the first, and so on. By extending
certain parts of the machine the sets of needles arranged as above or
herein-after described may be placed and worked in separate groups any
suitable distance apart. This is equally applicable to machines working
with single needles at distances apart. When the needles are thus set
we prefer to actuate the second group from the first, and so on, by
pivotting a vibrating lever (slotted at its ends) to the centre of an
extension or support connecting the two groups of needles, and by
engaging the slots with pins placed at opposite extremities (or sides of
the centres of motion) of the adjacent needle rods k, so that as one of
the latter ascends it causes its fellow to descend, and vice versâ (see the
upper Diagram). In some machines however we prefer to use two
levers r, which are toothed, slotted, or otherwise geared together at their
inner extremities so that both sets of needles receive the same motion

page_text: at the same time. This is most applicable to shuttle or other sewing
machines, where the needle (or needles) has (or have) a varying, down-
ward, or other motion. For this class of sewing machines it will
generally be sufficient to apply only two sets or groups of needles, and in
such manner (if required) that the second set and its appurtenances can
be readily removed from the first. This may be accomplished by various
means, but we prefer to construct the bed piece of the second set so
that it carries the necessary accessories to form its own set of stitches, and
. so that it can be readily secured by screws or otherwise to the table of
the machine or to the bed pieco or other suitable part of the first set,
the particular manner in which it is accomplished however depending
upon the individual machine so adapted. In the second (&c.) group the
reels of cotton, silk, or thread, &c., may be supported above, in front, or
at the rear of the needle rod, and in applying the principle to the machine
illustrated the second set of loopers might be actuated from the first by
placing a bevil or toothed wheel upon the looper shaft of the latter, and
gearing it with an intermediate shaft, which further, in like manner to
the first set, imparts the motion to the second set of loopers. It will be
understood that the groups of shuttles, hooks, loopers, under needles, or
their equivalents (according to the machine to which the arrangement is
applied) are all properly "timed" to their respective groups of needles.
In shuttle machines a distance may be left between the adjacent groups
of needles equal to a trifle more than the length of the shuttle, so that
the shuttle (or shuttles) for each group may have space enough at
either end to rest whilst the needles are rising, descending, and forming
the loops without tangling with the needle threads. In hook (&c.)
machines the hooks (loopers, &c., or equivalents) are set upon their
respective shafts (as hereafter mentioned), one set being placed under each
set or group of needles, so that it will readily be seen that according to
this arrangement the rows of stitches can be made in sets of rows, which
to the best of our knowledge has not hitherto been accomplished. By
having the driving bevil wheel above mentioned so that it slides on its
(the primary looper) shaft and the connecting part or parts between the
adjacent sets of needles adjustable as well as the lever or levers 7 pro-
vided with various slots equally placed from the centre, it will also be
seen that we can adjust the distances between the sets of rows as
herein-before referred to.
11. I will next describe the "Thomas" machine (as constructed
according to our Invention, and) which is illustrated on the accompany.

page_text: ing Drawings, as working with thirteen needles having twenty-five
different positions, by which means rows of stitches can be formed at
twenty-four different distances apart, the nearest being one-eighth of an
inch. On the accompanying Drawings Figure 13 represents a side
elevation (partly in section below the cloth plate) and Figure 14 a plan of
the machine; Figure 15 represents a plan of a double race with two
adjustable shuttles, which we apply to the machine by preference in
combination with the adjusting appliance (Figure 20); and when the
machine has also applied thereto, a double row needle holder which is
also shown, and when making a stitch each flight, as described hereafter.
Figure 16 represents a back elevation of the shuttle, needle, time, and
feed or stitch cams (showing the centre lines of the two former), which
are arranged and operated so as to form a stitch in each of the rows.at
each throw of the shuttle and to feed the work in proper time therefor,
thus performing double the quantity of work without working the
machine faster. Figures 17 to 19 represent similar views of the time
and feed cams combined which act as hereafter described, and Figure. 20
represents a plan (or elevation according to its position when applied to
the machine) of certain means which we employ for adjusting the throw
of the shuttle or shuttles to the needles in us
use as herein-after.described.
12. In this case I will describe the application of the needles when
placed in two rows in the needle holder (the former example sufficiently
illustrating the application when placed in one row), and when, working
with two adjustable shuttlės (and in combination with the adjusting
appliance, which is not however illustrated as applied to the machine
but in a separate view), and making a stitch with each needle thread at
each flight thereof. (I would here remark that in some cases dependant
mostly upon the construction .or, requirements of the machine the
needles are (or may be) set in three or more rows, but this is not
preferred.) The needle holder is constructed mainly as before, except
that the needle grooves, P, (of which there are twenty-five) are förmed
separately or in pairs alternately or for the most part so, on the opposite
sides of the plate A, and that there is a plate l'on each side (either held
by screws as above or hinged at the top and secured by small, catchies at
the bottom or sides), having cemented or otherwise, attached to its inner
surface a sheet of rubber, cloth; or other suitable or elastic material 1³
as above referred to. The needles are placed so that when rows of
stitches at equal distances apart are being made, they are held in the
I
B

page_text: alternate grooves on one side corresponding thereto at half an inch
apart, the remaining ones being placed in the intermediate grooves on
the other side so as to make the rows of stitches at one quarter of an
inch apart. The rows of needles thus placed are but a very slight
distance apart, lying almost & in some cases quite in the same vertical
plane. The needles of one row descend in grooves in one side, and the
needles of the other row descend in grooves in the other side, or they
descend in central grooves of a middle partition ¹ of a double race, in
each race of which travels an adjustable shuttle &* which faces its fellow.
The needle and shuttle cams are so arranged and timed that directly after
the two rows of needles have formed the two rows of loops, the two
shuttles (at the same time) are caused to pass one through cach row and
so form a stitch in as many rows or lines of stitches as there are needles
in use to form the loops. A peculiarity in the stitches thus formed is
that the shuttle threads lie transversely to the direction of the rows of
stitches except when the shuttles are resting at the ends and the fabric is
being fed by the feed cam and foot, and the needles descending to form
other rows of loops through which the shuttles pass in their backward
flight and so add another stitch to each of the rows. The sheets of
rubber, &c., P, serve as a means of holding the needles m firmly in
position when the plates are screwed up, and prevent the same falling
out when the screws or other means holding the plates are loosened or
unfastened, but allow of their being readily moved up and down, or
removed and adjusted to other grooves for the purposes described. When
it is required to use any one or more of the needles the screws & or
other means are first loosened or unfastened so as to loosen the plates,
the needles still being sufficiently pressed by the rubber (&c.) however
as to be kept in their places, but not so as to interfere with their ready
adjustment or removal. For example, say that there are six rows of
stitches required and No. 2 row from No. 1 equal one inch; No. 3 from
No. 2 three-quarters of an inch; No. 4 from No. 3 half an inch; No. 5
from No. 4 one-quarter of an inch; and No. 6 from No. 5 half an inch.
Then needles Nos. 1, 5, 8, 10, 11, and 13 are used, and one way in which
we set them all at the same time is (after loosening the plates ľ* as above
mentioned) by placing over the corresponding slots in the cloth plate of
the needles Nos. 2, 3, 4, 6, 7, 9, and 12, (those not required) a guage or
tem plate, or small strips or pieces of cardboard or other suitable
substance, and then cause the needle bar once slowly to descend; the
needles meeting with obstruction are thus pushed up in their respective

page_text: grooves in the needle holder and to such an extent as to be prevented
from piercing or otherwise injuring the work in descending, whilst the
needles required to form the desired rows remain in their respective
grooves in the same positions as before, passing through their respective
slots in the cloth plate, after which the plates l'are re-secured. When the
rows of stitches are required at any intermediate distances apart, all that
is necessary is to remove the needles where the rows are not required and
to place them in other grooves where they are.
13. The throw of the shuttle or of the adjustable shuttles is adjusted
to correspond and work properly with the needles in use (so as to prevent
slack and tangling of the threads), by the means illustrated in Figure 20,
which can be applied in a vertical, horizontal, or other direction, to any
machine working with more than one needle. t represents the centre
line of the shuttle cam which operates the shuttle rod by means of a
slotted bar t, which is provided with a corrugated slot, as shown, or
with a series of holes (a slight distance apart) running along its centre,
the object of which will be herein-after described. By this arrangement
the shuttle cam can be either placed on the actuating shaft or on a
separate shaft P, and receive motion from the former, or the rim of the
needle cam, or by toothed or bevil gearing t, or by other means
depending upon the construction of the machine to which it is applied.
It dispenses with the necessity of having the radius of the actuating part
of the shuttle cam equal to the throw of the shuttle (or shuttles), but it
may be equal and when it is the first central hole or corrugation of the
slot ³ is made at the centre of the length of the bar, but when the
motion of the outer extremity is to be increased it is placed nearer the
inner end proportionate to such increase, and the holes or corrugations
are continued outwards towards the shuttle rod for the purpose and in
such manner that when the centre pin & (which works in a slot in a
slide piece capable of oblique and lateral movement in a slot in the
bed plate) is removed from one hole or corrugation and placed in the
next outwards, the throw of the shuttle (or shuttles) is diminished by
the distance between any two adjacent needles, though its (or their) motion
and action in such shortened traverse are precisely the same as before.
Why we prefer that the under slide piece t (under which the centre pin (³
is secured by a thumbscrew ³, or by a nut, or otherwise,) should be
capable of such movement is that the throw of the shuttle (or shuttles)
can then be adjusted from either end of its (or their) traverse as desired,
B2

page_text: and not invariably from both ends at once as it would be otherwise. The
rod of the additional shuttle is also provided with an adjusting screw {
working in a slot in the rod of the first shuttle so that it can be secured
in different positions in relation to the first shuttle, and both work with
needles at opposite extremities and sides of the needle holder without
the necessity for their full traverse.
14. represents the arrangement for pulling up and tightening tho
stitches, which consists mainly of a slide piece u¹ (provided with a spring
wire u having a loop for cach thread) which works up and down in
recesses u³ formed in the arm 9, being actuated therein by the descent of
the needle arm e (as shown), and by the pin &* during the ascent of the
needle rod or bar k. The wire may be made of lesser extent than
shown, and the thread radiated therefrom through small eyelets on the
needle holder. v represents the feed foot (not shown in Figure 14,)
which is made with slots o' corresponding to all positions of the needles
so as to feed the work evenly. The reels a are by preference arranged
on horizontal (or slightly inclined) pins a' (as herein-before referred to),
which are screwed into upward projections g¹ of the arm g, as shown.
The threads are guided therefrom through small holes wo in curved out-
ward projections w¹ (screwed in or otherwise secured to the projections g¹),
to separate tension pieces 20* (screwed into the projections wo¹), and thence
to the guide u and through the loops of the same, and down the thread
grooves of the needles, and through their eyes, as shown in red, by
which means the series of threads may (if desired) individually receive a
different degree of tension.
15. Another mode (illustrated in Figures 30) in which we apply the
needles is to adjust each one m by a screw ma in a separate small
adjustable block mb, which slides in a race (or races) m² secured to the
needle rod k, and each block of which is separately held therein by a
screw mª, or the pressure of a spring or otherwise, or the needles may be
fixed in the blocks and the latter capable of removal. Or we operate
these blocks by a rod (or rods) screwed in such a manner that when it
(or they) is (or are) turned the blocks and their needles are caused to
recede from or approach each other, and at proportionate, equal, or
varying rates; but I would remark that this last application, as des-
cribed in our Provisional Specification, is not of such practical utility as
would lead us to recommend its adoption. The needles arranged as
above described can be equally well applied to sewing machines working

page_text: in connection with such accessories as hooks or loopers of any variety of
construction, or shuttles under necules or their equivalents, each hook
or looper being separately adjusted and set fast upon its shaft or its
equivalent, or they may all be formed upon the same shaft, or may be
capable of sliding upon a feather thercon or in a groove therein, and held
and adjusted by screws; but in all cases they are adjusted and set so as to
correspond and work properly with the needles, but the arrangement
thereof, together with that of the other accessories to form the stitches,
depends entirely upon the construction and working of the machine
adapted. It will be understood that only the books, &c., whose respec-
tive needles are lowered will form the rows of stitches, the other needles
being out of "gear," neither form loops or pierce the work when
descending, so all that is necessary is first to adjust the needles (and the
necessary accessories where such is requisite) and then to pass the work
once through the machine, which thus effects an immense saving both
in time and labor. If only one needle is required to be used, all the
others can be readily ungeared" as above described, and the machine
can then be used in every way as an ordinary single needle sewing
machine. Some of the specialities of machines constructed or adapted
according to this Invention are the advantages in plaiting, tucking,
quilting, cording, braiding, and embroidering.
"
16. The arrangement of the stitch and time cams, illustrated in Figure
16, is such as to cause the feed foot in its descent to keep time with the
upward motion of the needles and to feed the fabric while the latter are
descending, but before they have penetrated the fabric. In Figure 17
the foot is caused to start in advance and to go down and meet the ascent
of the needles, the fabric being fed as before. In Figure 18 the foot
starts in time as in Figure 16, but has a quicker down motion, the feed
being caused to commence before the needles commence to descend and to
continue during the first part of the descent thereof, a longer time being
thereby allowed for the operation of the stitch cam, and in Figure 19
the foot starts in advance as in Figure 17, and is caused to go down and
meet the ascent of the needles and to feed the fabric as in Figure 18. Or
these cams may be arranged so as to allow still more time for the feed
with a quicker down motion of the foot; in some modifications the feed
foot being caused to receive three motions instead of the four as above, and
in its motion to describe a triangular figure. The motion for giving the
stitch being the base, the ascent, the hypothenuse, and the descent the leg

page_text: Figure 27 a side elevation of the "tension"
•
arrangement; and
Figure 28 a. front elevation, and Figures 29 side sectional elevations
of the "feed" arrangement. 1 represents the primary or actuating
shaft (which we prefer to form as one, without the addition of any inter-
mediate gear), held in suitable bearings 2, and on one end of which we
place two pullies 3, one fast and the other loose, the strap being thrown from
the one to the other by the usual "fork," which is not however shown;
4 represents the bed and framing, of which the bearings 2 may form part,
or to which they may be bolted or otherwise secured. Forming part of
the bearings or of the framing, and projecting outwards therefrom, are
horizontal divisions or arms 5, provided with or formed at their fore ends.
as vertical standards 6, both of which latter may be placed at any desired
distance apart according to the particular requirements of the machine
to be constructed. Between every two adjacent arms are placed
horizontal stay bars 7, to the fore one of which, at about its centre, is
screwed or otherwise suitably secured (or it is formed with) small vertical
supports or bearings 8, in which the tension device for the group of
needles between the same pair of arms is placed, and to the rear one of
which the arrangement 9 for holding the reels is by similar means
secured. The standards 6 are provided with grooves 10 on each side and
between the adjacent grooves facing each other is placed a needle holder
11, containing any desired number of needles arranged and adjusted as
herein-before described. The stay bars 7 also serve as brackets for
holding between each adjacent pair of arms 5, a short transverse shaft
12, which serves as a means of imparting the required motion to the
needle holder and needles (or the transverse shafts may be placed one
between each alternate pair of arms, as herein-after mentioned). On the
fore end of each shaft is (or may be) placed a plate 13, provided with a
pin or projection and small friction wheel which takes in a slot in the
needle holder, or a plate 13 cut with a cam groove corresponding to tho
motion to be given to the needles, in which enters a pin or projection
and friction wheel at the rear of the needle holder, or this may be otherwise
provided with intermediate or differential gear depending upon the
motion that the needles are required to receive. Immediately above the
grooves 10 and connecting the adjacent ones facing each other is placed a
bar 14 pierced with holes, through which the threads are passed from
the "tension" 8, and by which they are guided correctly down the
grooves of the needles to prevent unnecessary abrasion, as shown in red;
or this bar may be formed as a spring slide piece (as illustrated and

page_text: :
.
described in reference to the ""Thomas" machine); and receive an up and
down motion from the needle holder or otherwise, and slide above the
same in upward continuations of the grooves 10. On the rear end of
each shaft 12 is placed a bevil wheel 15, which gears into another 16
placed on the shaft 1, and capable of sliding on feathers or ribs thercon.
By these means the rotary motion of the shaft 1 is converted into a rapid
réciprocating motion imparted to the needles. Each wheel 16-is
'ungeared" from the one 15, which it operates by means of a hand
clutch lover 17 in easy position for the operator, which engages with the
clutch groove 18 in the boss of the same, so that it will be seen that
any set of needles can be instantly stopped for any purpose without à
similar necessity for any others; likewise any one set can be, 'worked
without the necessity of working the others. If the apparatus is con-
structed (as above referred to) with a transverse shaft between cach
alternate pair of arms, then, if a very wide piece of fabric is to be sewn,
quilted, or otherwise worked upon, a separate needle holder is dropped
between the adjacent ones of the alternate pairs, and secured by suitable
(but readily detachable) means to the needle holder on either side, so as
to receive motion therefrom. The apparatus would also then be so
constructed that additional under sets could be as easily applied, or
permanently placed (so as to be "ungeared" at any time if required);
but this arrangement is not preferred.
'
J
20. The lower part of the framing 4 is (or may be) continued forward
as a bed piece so as to come under the needles, at which latter-part it
is formed to receive shuttles, hooks, loopers, under needles, or their
equivalents to form the stitches according to which it is required.should
⚫be applied to the machine. (In the Drawings it is shown as constructed
to receive' shuttles:) When it is constructed to work with any of the
above they receive the requisite motion in time with the needles from
the shaft 1 by the application of the requisite intermediate gear to give
such desired motion. In Figures 21 & 22, bevil gear x, actuated from
the said shaft is shown working the shuttles in combination with the
adjustable arrangements. herein-before described, and with a small
shuttle cam-24 in comparison to the throw of the shuttles.
די
'
21. The "tension" device consists of two small rollers 19 (held in the
bearings 8). which by the means hereafter immediately described are

page_text: the work required or being operated upon, and the number of threads in
usc. Each roller consists by preference of an outer tube of steel or other
suitable material 19 enclosing a tube of rubber or other elastic sub-
stance 20, which is placed on the shaft of the roller. The lower roller is
fixed in its bearings, whilst the upper one is capable of being depressed
by tightening the screws 21, which cause the blocks 22 above the same
to press downwards on its shaft, and compress the threads to the degree
required between the steel or other surfaces 19.
22. The arrangement for holding the reels consists of a small quad-
rantal or other curved or shaped projection. 9 secured by screws or
otherwise made fast to the rear stay bar 7, and to which are attached
horizontal rods 23 on which the reels are placed, being separated however
from each other by small leather or other washers as and for the purpose
above mentioned.
23. The work is drawn through the machine by feed rollers 25, which
receive a rapid intermittent rotory (or other suitable) motion, the degree
of rotation at each movement being caused to vary in such a manner as
to give different lengths of stitches as required, and being regulated to
keep time with the needles. The rollers are formed of inner and outer
tubes in the same manner as the tension rollers, except that the outer
circumferences of one or both of the outer tubes are by preference
roughened by serrations, or the application of cloth, canvas, or thread,
so as to lay hold of but not injure the fabric. The journals of the lower
roller may be fitted with the screw arrangement in the same manner as
the tension rollers if thought desirable, but the play allowed by the
rubber (which however in this case is much thinner or less elastic) will
generally be sufficient to allow of the insertion of ordinary thicknesses
of fabric without the addition. At one end the journal of the upper
roller is prolonged, and has fixed thereto a circular plate 26 (the edge of
which is finely serrated), which receives motion from a spring pawl
lever 27. pivotted at y, and actuated from the shaft 1 so as to give various.
degrees of rotation to the former according to the length of stitches
required. This is accomplished by means of a taper oval eccentric 28,
capable of sliding on the said shaft, and which at every revolution thereof,
elevates the lever 27 and causes its pawl to catch in the serrations of the
plate 26, and to slightly turn the rollers 25, the lower one of which works
in a slot 29 in the bed, as shown, and through which the fabric may pass..
By sliding the eccentric 28 along its feather on the shaft, so that its
-
.

page_text: different diameters present themselves to the lever 27, the latter receives
corresponding degrees of elevation, and consequently the rollers 25
receive different degrees of rotation according to the length of stitches
required.
24. The table 30 is made to cover the under parts, as shown in
Figure 23, and is made in sliding sections (see detached views) so that
any of the under parts can be readily inspected, and if needs be
removed.
25. Amongst the advantages derived from the use of sewing
machinery or apparatus constructed or adapted according to our
Invention may be mentioned an invaluable saving in both time and
labor.
26. Having now described the nature and object of our said Invention
for "Improvements in Machinery or Apparatus for Sewing," together with
the manner in which the same is to be or may be performed or carried
into practical effect, I would remark in conclusion that we claim as our
Invention,―
1stly. The improved method or means or applying or adapting to such
machinery or apparatus two or more adjustable needles, together or in
combination with their necessary accessories to form the stitches, and
either alone or in combination with the various appliances described in
connection therewith.
2ndly. The improved (adjustable) means of actuating two or more
single needles or sets of needles (arranged as above described) alone or
in combination with their necessary accessories, from a first or primary
one, as described, and the general use and application thereof to sewing
machinery.
3rdly. The adjustable shuttle appliance and the general use and appli-
cation thereof to sewing machinery, but particularly when in combination
with one or more adjustable shuttles (in one or more races) making a
stitch each flight with each needle thread, and when in combination with
one or more rows of needles (arranged as above described).
4thly. The improved arrangements of double-acting cams and their
general application and use, but especially in combination with one or
more adjustable shuttles and one or more rows or needles (arranged as

page_text: above described), and with the improved means of actuating one or more
single needles or sets of needles from a primary one or set.
'
5thly. The improved form of needle, and especially when used in com-
bination with the improved means of holding & rendering the same
readily adjustable, all substantially as and for the purposes described and
set forth and as illustrated on the accompanying Drawings, and any mere
modification of or in the arrangement, construction, or application of the
above, whether used separately or in any combination with each other.
6thly. The general construction and arrangement of sewing machinery.
or apparatus for factory or other similar heavy requirements, sub-
stantially as described and as illustrated on the accompanying Drawings.
7thly: The improved means of causing the feed, and particularly the
use of the taper oval eccentric in combination with the spring pawl
lever, and the general use and application thereof for purposes of a like
nature.
Sthly. The improved tension arrangement (Figures 26 and 27) and the
means of adjusting the same, and especially the use thereof in com-
bination with the rubber, leather, or other elastic cushion formed in the
body of the rollers (as also in the feed rollers) substantially as and for the
purposes described and set forth, and as illustrated on the accompanying
Drawings.
•
And, lastly. Any mere modification of or in the arrangement, construc-.
tion, or application of the above, whether used alone or in combination
with each other.
In witness whereof, I, the said Charles Aubrèy Day, on behalf of
myself and the said Henry Howse, have hereunto set my hand and
seal, this Eighth day of June, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and seventy-two.