Improvements in Sewing Machines for Attaching Buttons to Garments.
Year: 1890

page_text: Date of Application, 15th Apr., 1890-Accepted, 17th May, 1890
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
[Communicated from abroad by THE NATIONAL MACHINE COMPANY (Incorporated),
of 385, Broadway, in the City of New York, United States of America.]
Improvements in Sewing Machines for Attaching Buttons to
Garments.
I,, HENRY EDWARD NEWTON of the Office for Patents, 6 Breams Buildings
Chancery Lane in the county of Middlesex, Patent Agent, do hereby declare the
nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This invention relates to machines for sewing, to clothing and other articles or
fabrics, buttons having perforations or eyes through them from side to side.
The general objects of this invention are:-
To furnish a sewing machine with mechanism for holding and intermittently
moving a button having four eyes, and presenting the eyes in succession to the
needle, to sew on the button by stitches from eye to eye progressively around the
circuit of the eyes; to provide such mechanisms with adjusting devices whereby.
buttons having eyes at widely different distances apart can be thus sewed on.
To provide such mechanism with adjusting devices, whereby buttons having four
eyes, or two eyes, can be sewed on by stitches extending to and fro between two
opposite eyes, and across the centre of the buttons; to produce a button holder and
a carrier having means for receiving and holding such buttons and applying them
to the fabric in the sewing machine; to furnish the button holder and carrier with
adjustable devices for holding and carrying buttons of very different sizes; to provide
the button carrying mechanism with means for automatically securing the sewing
on of a button by a certain predetermined number of stitches; to provide such
means with adjusting devices whereby the sewing on of buttons by certain different
numbers of stitches can be secured; to provide means for automatically stopping
the sewing machine when the button carrier shall have moved a certain predeter-
mined number of steps; and to provide a device whereby the machine can be
conveniently started and kept in motion.
Other objects of, the invention are hereinafter set forth.
These objects are attained by the mechanism illustrated in the accompanying
drawings, in which :-
Fig. 1 represents in side elevation, and partly in section, a button sewing machine
embodying one form of this invention; the section being mainly, at about the
line in Fig. 2, which is a plan of the under side of the same machine.
Fig. 3 shows a section of a portion of the bed plate of the same machine at the
said line z z', and an elevation of some parts of the mechanism, as seen in the
direction of the arrow in figure 2.
Fig. 4 represents a section of the lower portion of the same machine at the
liner in figure 2, and an elevation of some parts as viewed in the direction pointed
by the arrow w, and Fig. 4ª is a plan and partial section of parts at the line w² 10³
in Fig. 4.
Fig. 5 shows a section of the lower portion of the same machine at the line v v¹
in Fig. 2 and an elevation of some parts as seen in the direction of the arrow u; and
Fig. 5 is a plan and partial section of parts at the line ww³ in Fig. 5.
Figs. 6, 7, & 8 represent some detached parts of the mechanism shewn in
Fig. 2.
·
Fig. 9 shews in plan, and on a larger scale, the button holding and carrying
mechanism represented in elevation in figure 1, and Fig. 10 shows the same
mechanism in partial section at the line t t in Fig. 9.
Fig. 11 is a plan of the underside of a part of the button holder shown in Figs. 9

page_text: and 10; and Figs. 12, 12ª and 13 are isometrical representations of some detached
parts of the same button holder.
Figs. 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21 and 22, are isometrical illustrations of detached
parts of the same button holding and carrying mechanism shewn in Figs. 9.
and 10.
This invention is mainly applicable to various kinds of well known sewing
machines. The drawings illustrate it as applied to a sewing machine manufactured
by The Singer Manufacturing Company. A represents the bed plate, A¹ the over-
hanging arm, B the rotary driving shaft, B¹ the needle bar, which is depressed and
elevated at each revolution of said driving shaft, C the shaft which carries the hooked
shuttle and is oscillated at each revolution of the driving shaft by the intervening
crank B², connecting rod B³, rock shaft C having the arms C2 C3, and the arm C* on
the shaft C, engaging the arm C³ and O is the feed actuating rock shaft having an
arm O¹ connected with the driving shaft by the rod B and excentric B³.
Y is a button (Figs. 9 and 10) having four eyes 1, 2, 3, 4, in a circuit, which are
to be presented each in succession to the needle a of the sewing machine; the button
is held by a button holder secured to a primary slide D, having a socket 6 (Fig. 16.),
with a crank pin or excentric E, fitting in said socket, and secured to a rotating
shaft or carrier F, mounted in a socket b', Fig. 10, and connected to the driving
mechanism of the sewing machine by devices which cause the rotation of said crank
pin or excentric by steps of equal length, and equal in number to the number of
eyes in the button. The slide D is also provided or furnished with a secondary
slide G, having a guideway, as cc, for said primary slide, and furnished with means
for insuring the movement of said secondary slide bodily and equally in all its parts,
to and fro, transversely to the movement of said primary slide and said guideway;
so that the intermittent rotation of said crank or excentric E causes the positive
step by step movement of every part and joint of said primary slide and attached
button holder, in a true circle, equal in diameter to the throw of, or to the.
diameter of the circle described by the centre of, said crank pin or excentric. In
carrying out this part of the invention, any suitable known means may be used to
secure the movement of said secondary slide bodily and equally in every part, to
and fro, in a course at right angles to, or somewhat inclined to, said said primary
slide, or in an arc of a circle or a curved course.
As a means for accurately guiding the secondary slide G and the primary slide D,
with its attached button holder, when actuated by the excentric E fitting in the
socket in the primary slide, a stationary base plate H, Figs. 9, 10, and 14, supports
the two slides, and has a guide way or guides dd, Fig. 14, in which fit and slide
wings e. e, Fig. 15, on the slide G, which has a guideway or guides c. c, in which
the primary slide, D, fits, and is moved to and fro by the excentric E, having its
carrier F mounted to rotate in and on said base plate.
To provide means for properly presenting to the needle of the sewing machine,
buttons having eyes in circles of different diameters, or at various distances apart,
there is combined with the primary slide and its attached button holder, a laterally
movable guideway for the primary slide, means to direct the lateral movements of
said guideway, a crank or excentric engaging directly with said primary slide, or
fitting in a socket in that slide, a rotary support which carries said crank or
excentric, and rotates it step by step, and means by which the crank or excentric
can be secured to its said support at different distances from its axis of rotation.
To provide means for securing the excentric upon its carrier at different distances
from its axis of revolution, the excentric E Figs. 10, 18, and 19, and its carrier F,
Figs. 10, 14 and 17, are formed, one with a radial groove f, and the other with a
corresponding tongue f¹, adapted to fit and slide in said groove. Through the
excentric is a suitable perforation 2, and a clamping bolt I extends through that
perforation, and engages with the carrier F, whereby the excentric can be secured to
the carrier at whatever position it shall be adjusted thereon.
To facilitate the adjustment of the excentric E on its carrier F, there is placed upon
the excentric a cap piece I', Figs. 9. 10. & 20, having a central perforation g through

page_text: which the clamping bolt I extends, and a cam slot into which extends a pin, Figs. 10
and 19, fast on the excentric; so that upon loosening the clamping bolt, and turning
the cap piece to or fro upon the excentric, and about the bolt I as a pivot, the
excentric will be slid radially along the ways f, f¹ by the cam slot and pin i, in or
out upon the carrier F, to different distances upon its axis of rotation, and can be there
clamped fast with the cap-piece I' by tightening said clamping bolt.
To further facilitate the adjustment of the excentric upon its carrier, the periphery
of the carrier has a recess j, Figs. 14 & 17, and the stationary support of the
carrier has a slot so arranged that when the carrier is turned into a certain
position, its recess will register with, or be as an extension of, the slot j¹, as shown
in Fig. 14, so that a stop bolt J, Fig. 22, can then be inserted, through the slot j
into the recess j, so as to prevent the turning of the carrier F while the excentric E
is being adjusted and clamped fast on the carrier, and so that the bolt J can be with-
drawn from the recess j to let the carrier revolve.
As regards the above described parts of this invention, the button holder attached
to the slide D may be of any suitable kind.
To provide a button sewing machine with improved means for conveniently
receiving, centering, and securely holding and carrying buttons having eyes through
them, a fabric presser K, Figs. 9 and 10, is secured to a suitable carrier, as D, so that
said fabric presser can be freely elevated and depressed and retained upon the fabric.
The foot of said presser has a recess e¹ (see Fig. 12), and, at the sides and end of that
recess, guide bearings k, Fig. 9, are adapted, so as to just permit a button to be
inserted edgewise between them, and thereby centred. These bearings are furnished
with thin lips 1, projecting inward at the lower edges of the bearings, and a somewhat
elastic button presser L is attached at one end to the shank of the fabric presser K.
The presser L has its foot formed with a recess e², shaped and arranged so as to
permit the button to be easily pressed in between it and the lips and edge bearings k,
and so as to then press down upon the inserted button, outside of the circuit of its
eyes, and thereby securely hold the button when such button holder is elevated, to
permit the insertion and removal of buttons, and, when depressed upon the fabric X',
as in Fig. 10, while sewing on a button.
Any suitable means can be used to secure the button holder to its carrier, and to
elevate and depress the same, as, for instance, such as is shewn in Figs. 1, 9, & 10,
wherein a part K', to which the part K is firmly attached, is hinged at d¹ to a
standard d² on a part D', which is firmly attached to the carrier D. The part D¹ has
a vertically adjustable screwpost d³ extending upward loosely through an aperture in
the part K, and surrounded by a spring d', which is compressed between the parts D¹
and K. A cam lever d³ is mounted on the post d³, over the part K₁, which is pressed
upward against the cam lever by the spring d. When the cam-lever d³ is turned
into its position in Figs. 9 and 10, it presses the button bolder down upon the fabric X',
and thereby clamps the fabric upon the thin plate D². This plate is attached to the
part D', and extends over and slides upon the cloth plate a¹, Fig. 10. It has an
aperture de (Fig. 21.) about the needlehole a², and of greater size than the circle of
the eyes of the buttons to be sewed on. When the cam lever d³ is turned into another
position, the spring d elevates the button holder (in the course of of the broken line t*
in Fig. 10), to permit the free removal from the button holder of a button sewed to a
fabric, and the easy insertion of another button into the button holder.
The button presser L is made sufficiently elastic to permit buttons of the same, or
slightly different thicknesses, to be readily inserted and securely held by and between
it and the lips l, and bearings k, of the fabric presser.
To adapt the button bolder to receive and hold buttons of greatly different thick-
nesses, the button presser L is attached to the fabric presser K by a suitable adjusting
clamp, as, for example, by having the seat portion of the part L rest on the ends of
four screws c¹, which fit in, and are adjustable through, screw sockets (c³), Fig. 12,
in the part K, and a clamp screw c³, having its head bearing on the part L, and its
shank extending through a perforation e, Fig. 13, in that part, and screwed into a
screw-socket c in the part K,

page_text: When the button holder is to be used to hold buttons of equal diameters, the
bearings k for the edge of the button, and the lips l for supporting the under side of
its rim, may all be on one integral stock.
To make the button holder capable of receiving and holding buttons of very different
diameters, there are three sub-feet m, Fig. 12, each with a lateral bearing and lip l,
and with a tongue n having therein a screw socket n', and extending upward and
fitting into one of three longer slots n² (Fig. 12), arranged as at three sides of a
square, through the plate of the fabric presser K, and each furnished with a clamp
screw, n³, fitting in the screw socket n', and the underside of the head of the screw
bearing upon said slotted plate, substantially as indicated by Figs. 9 and 10, so that
thereby the three sub-feet m can be readily adjusted and firmly connected to said plate
with their guide bearings at various distances from a common centre. The lips
may be rigid on the sub-feet m, or may consist of the free projecting ends of thin
sheet springs extending under and along the sub-feet, and united to the heels thereof,
as indicated by the lines at m' in Figs. 10 and 12ª.
By the above described adjustability of the button-holder, it is adapted to receive
and hold buttons of equal diameters and different thicknesses, and buttons of equal
thicknesses and different diameters, and buttons of different diameters and different
thicknesses.
As regards the above-described parts of this invention, any suitable means can be
used to rotate the carrier F of the excentric E step by step in harmony with the
movements of the needle-carrier of the sewing machine. As an improved means for
that purpose, there is fast on the carrier F, a bevel gear F1, Figs. 10. 1, and 2, which
engages with a bevel gear M, mounted to freely rotate on the oscillating shaft C,
supported by fixed bearings y'. Fast on the gear M, is a ratchet M', Figs. 2, 4, and 8,
furnished with a driving pawl N and pawl carrier N₁. This carrier is mounted to
vibrate on the shaft C, and has an arm N2 jointed to a rod N³ which is jointed to an
arm 02 fast on the rock shaft O, mounted in fixed bearings ². The shaft O has an
arm O connected to the driving shaft B by the excentric B³, and connecting rod B,
whereby the carrier F and excentric E will be turned a step at each revolution of said
driving shaft.
To render the mechanism capable of sewing on buttons having four eyes by stitches
from eye to eye in succession around the circuit of the eyes, and also capable of sewing
on buttons by stitches extending across the centre of the button between two opposite
eyes, the gear M may have teeth of a number multiple of the number of teeth in the
gear F, and the number of teeth in the ratchet M¹ may be equal to, or a multiple of,
the product of the number four, and the ratio of the numbers of teeth in the two
gears; as, for example, when the number of teeth in the gear M is eighteen, and in
the gear F is nine, the ratio is two, which, multiplied by four, gives the product
eight, as a proper number of teeth for said ratchet. Also, the rod N³ may be jointed
to the arm 03 of the rock-shaft O, by a pivot coupling, as P, Fig. 4, the position of
which can be adjusted on that arm, as indicated in Fig. 4, from the point o to the
point o¹. With this construction, when the rod N³ is jointed at o to the arm 0, as
shown by full lines in Fig. 4, the pawl N will be moved by the arm so as to turn the
ratchet Ma step equal to only one of its eight teeth, and thereby turn the gear F¹,
shaft F, and excentric E, through only one-fourth of a revolution, as required in
sewing on four-eyed buttons from eye to eye in a circuit. When the rod N³ is jointed
by the pivot coupling P, or its equivalent, to the arm 02, at o¹, Fig. 4, the pawl N
will be moved by each rocking movement of said arm so far as to turn the ratchet M'
a step equal to two of its eight teeth, and thereby turn the gear M through one fourth
of a revolution, and the gear F1, carrier F, and excentric E, one half of a revolution,
as when stitching across the centre of a button through and between its opposite eyes.
M2 is a collar fastened adjustably to the shaft (, to retain the gear M in proper
engagement with the gear F, and to keep the driving pawl N and its carrier N¹ in
proper relation to the ratchet M', and M³ is an adjustable friction-brake bearing
against the sleeve of said ratchet, secure its accurate movement by said driving
paw and to prevent the movement of the ratchet by the shaft which supports it.

page_text: is a friction disc fast on the driving shaft B, and is a corresponding friction
disc, grooved to receive a driving belt or band, and loose upon, and slightly movable
along, that shaft. R is a shipper or forked piece mounted on a stationary pivot at p,
and arranged so that when it is moved in the direction of the arrows w¹ in Fig. 1,
the disc Q, while rotating, will be pressed by one prong of the fork against the
dise Q, which will thereby be rotated, and with it the shaft B. When the forked piece R
is moved in the opposite direction, it will release the disc Q from the disc Q, and
allow the latter and the shaft B to stop.
R' is a brake carried by the other prong of the fork R, and arranged so that when
the fork releases the disc Q' from the disc Q, the brake. will then bear against a
projecting part pl of the disc Q, as shown in Fig. 1, to stop the machine; and so that
when the fork presses the disc Q' against the disc Q, the brake R' will be removed a
little from the projecting part pl of the latter disc, as in Fig. 2.
S is a rod jointed at p to the forked piece R, and mounted to slide to and fro
lengthwise in bearings through stationary brackets or lugs u', u². The red S has a
collar $ fastened thereon, and is furnished with a spring S2, which is compressed
between the collar S' and lug w², its tendency being to move the rod S in the direction
of the arrow v2, and thereby move the fork R so as to release the disc Q from the
disc Q, and apply the brake R' to the former disc.
Another collar S3 is fast on the rod S, and has lugs q, between which is a pin g¹ on
the short arm of a lever T, which is pivotted at 2 to a bracket 3 on the bed plate A,
so that, by pressing down the long arm of that lever from its position in Fig. 1 to its
position in Fig. 3, the rod S will be noved in the direction of the arrow v³, Fig. 1, in
opposition to the pressure of the spring S2, and will move the fork pieces R, so as to
press the disc Q¹ against the disc Q, and remove the brake R¹ from the latter disc,
and thereby start the machine and keep it in motion.
To avoid all necessity for continuously pressing down the long arm of the lever T
while the machine is in operation, and to provide means for automatically stopping the
machine, when it has made a certain predetermined number of stitches in sewing on a
button, there is a rotating cam-faced loose collar U, Figs. 1, 2, 3, 6 and 7, and a
follower on the slide rod S, and on said collar is a ratchet U2, Fig. 5, furnished
with a driving pawl V and its carrier V'. This carrier V₁ is pivotted at r to a
connecting rod W, which is jointed to an arm 03 on the rock shaft O, from which the
button-feeding mechanism is actuated, so that for each step movement of the button
carrier, the collar U will be turned a step. The parts U U are formed with cam
faces or clutch teeth s, s', s2, 3, whereby, during the main portion of each rotation of
the collar U, the slide rod S is held, in opposition to the pressure of the spring S², in
the position to keep the loose driving diss Q pressed against the disc Q to rotate the
shaft B. anl so that, whenever in the step-by-step rotation of the collar U, the part's
passes the corresponding parts of the follower U¹, the rod S and fork piece R will be
instantly moved by the spring S2, so as to release the disc Q from the disc Q, and
apply the brake R¹ to the latter dise, and thereby stop the machine. When the
machine is thus automatically stopped in using it, the sewing on of a button is usually
completed, and the sewed-on button should be removed from the button-holder. The
fabric is then shifted, and another button is inserted in the holder, which is then
depressed, and holds the button in proper place on the fabric. By then pulling down
the long arm of the lever T, which may be connected with a foot lever for that
purpose, the slide rod will he moved so as to start the machine, as above described.
Upon then holding down that arm of the lever until the button carrier shall have
moved a few steps, the bearing U will have turned so as to bring its surface s²
opposite to the surfaces of the follower, at which time the lever T should be released,
to let the follower bear against the rotary bearing, until, in its rotation, its ledge s
just passes the ledge s' of the follower, and the machine then stops.
The ratchet U2, Fig. 5, has a sufficient number of teeth to permit the mechanism
to sew on a four-eyed button by stitches from eye to eye in a circuit repeatedly, while
the ratchet and the bearing U revolve once. To make the mechanism capable of
moving the button holder different numbers of steps during a rotation of the

page_text: bearing-U, as is generally desirable or important in using the mechanism to sew on
buttons through different numbers of eyes, the pawl-operating rod W is connected to
the arm 03 of the rock shaft O by a pivot coupling X, Figs. 5 and 5*, which is
adjustable along that arm to different distances from the rock shaft, whereby the
pawl V can be caused to rotate the ratchet U2 and collar U by steps each equal in
angular extent or degree to that of either one, two, or more teeth of the ratchet at
each to-and-fro movement of said rock shaft.
S is a collar adjustably secured to the rod. S to variously limit the movements of
that rod in the direction of the arrow v2.
The pawl carrier V' is mounted loosely on the rod S, and between that pawl carrier
and the bracket u¹, is a loose sleeve V2 on said rod. The rotating collar U and
ratchet U are united by a sleeve u³, which is loose on the rod S, and is furnished
with an adjustable friction bearing V³, to ensure more accurate step-by-step move-
ments of the ratchet by its driving pawl.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said Inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, as communicated to me
from abroad, I declare that what I claim is :-
1. In a button-sewing machine, the combination with a primary slide having an
attached button-holder, a crank or excentric engaging directly with, and thereby
exclusively moving said slide, and means for rotating said crank or excentric step
by step, of a secondary slide having a straight guideway for said primary slide, and
thereby engaged with and operated only by said primary slide, and guides to secure
the movement of said secondary slide bodily and equally in every part to and fro
laterally to its said guideway for said primary slide, whereby the rotation of said
crank or excentric causes the rotation of every point in said primary slide and
button-holder in a true circle, equal in diameter to the throw of said crank or
excentric, substantially as set forth.
2. In a button-sewing machine, the combination with a primary slide having an
attached button-holder, a crank or excentric adjustable to different distances from
its axis of rotation, and engaging directly with, and thereby exclusively operating
said primary slide, and means for rotating said crank or excentric step by step, of
a secondary slide having a straight guideway for said primary slide, and thereby
engaged with and operated only by said primary slide, and guides to secure the
movement of said secondary slide bodily and equally in every part to and fro laterally
to its guideway for said primary slide, substantially as set forth.
3. In a button-sewing machine, the combination with the primary slide having in
it a socket for an excentric, a work-holder attached to said slide, an excentric fitting
in said socket, and means for rotating the excentric step by step, of the secondary
slide having the guides for said primary slide, and formed with wings transverse to
said guides, and the stationary base plate having the guides for said wings, and
supporting said primary and secondary slides, substantially as set forth.
4. In a button sewing machine, the combination with the primary slide having in
it a socket for an excentric, a work holder attached to said slide, and an excentric
fitting in said socket, of the secondary slide having guides for said primary slide, and
formed with wings transverse to said guides, the stationary base-plate having guides
for said wings and supporting said slides, a rotating carrier for said excentric, and
supported by said base plate, a clamp by which the excentric is secured to said carrier,
and is adjustable thereon to different distances from its axis of rotation, and means
for rotating said carrier step by step, substantially as set forth.
5. In a button-sewing machine, the combination with its button-holder-carrier
having a circular socket, of an excentric fitting in said socket, and having the per-
foration, the rotating excentric carrier F, said excentric and its carrier being
formed with a guide groove f in one and a corresponding tongue fl on the other,
and a clamping bolt I extending through said perforation in the excentric and serving
to clamp the excentric to its said carrier at different distances from its axis of rotation,
substantially as described,

page_text: 6. In a button-sewing machine, the combination with its button-holder-carrier
having a circular socket, of the excentric fitting in said socket, and having the
perforation, and projecting pin i, the rotating excentric carrier F, said excentric
and its carrier being formed with a guide groove in one and tongue f¹ on the other,
the cap piece I' having the perforation 9 and cam slot h, and a clamping bolt I, sub-
stantially as described.
g
7. In a button-sewing machine. the combination with its button-holder-carrier
having the circular socket b, of the excentric having the perforation, and fitting in
said socket, the rotating excentric carrier F, having the recess j, said excentric and
its carrier being formed with a guide groove f in one and tongue f¹ on the other,
the clamping bolt 1, stationary plate H, having the slot j', and the bolt J fitting in
said slot, and movable therein into and out of said recess, substantially as described.
8. In a button-sewing machine, the combination with its button-holder-carrier
having a socket for an excentric, of the excentric fitting in said socket and having
the perforation f and projecting pin i, the rotating excentric-carrier having the
recess j, said excentric and its carrier being formed with the groove f in one, and
the tongue 1 on the other, the cap piece I having the perforation g and cam slot h,
the clamping bolt I, plate H, having the slot j', and the bolt J, fitting in said slot,
and movable therein into and out of said recess ), substantially as described.
9. In a button-sewing machine, a button-holder embracing a fabric presser having
its foot portion formed with the recess e¹, and furnished with lateral button-bearings k
and lips, the button presser L, having the recess in its foot, and an adjusting clamp
by which said button presser is secured to said fabric presser, and is adjustable
thereon, to bear properly upon buttons of very different thicknesses, substantially as
set forth.
10. In a button-sewing machine, a button-holder embracing a fabric presser having
a foot-plate formed with the recess e', and furnished with the sub-feet m having the
button-bearings and lips 1, the button-presser L, attached to said fabric-presser, and
adjusting clamps by which said sub-feet are secured to said foot plate of the fabric
presser and are adjustable thereon to receive and centre buttons of very different
diameters, substantially as set forth.
11. In a button-sewing machine, a button-holder embracing a fabric-presser K,
having a foot plate formed with the recess e¹, and furnished with the sub-feet m,
having the button bearings k, and lips 1, adjusting clamps by which said sub-feet are
secured to said foot plate, and are adjustable thereon, to receive and centre buttons of
very different diameters, the button presser L, having the recess e² and an adjusting
clamp by which said button-presser is secured to said fabric-presser, and is adjustable
thereon, to bear properly upon buttons of very different thicknesses, substantially as
set forth.
12. In a button-sewing-machine, the combination with its button-holder-carrier,
having a socket for an excentric, the rock shaft O, and means to operate it in harmony
with the movements of the needle-bar, of an excentric fitting in said socket and
furnished with a rotating carrier having the bevel gear F, and the bevel gear M,
having the ratchet M' furnished with a pawl and pawl carrier, connected with and
operated by said rock shaft, substantially as described.
13. In a button-sewing-machine, the combination with its button-holder-carrier,
having a socket for an excentric, the rock shaft O, and means to operate it in harmony
with the movements of the needle-bar, of an excentric fitting in said socket, and.
furnished with a rotating carrier having the bevel gear F", the bevel gear M, having
the ratchet M', and teeth multiple of the teeth in the gear F', pawl N, pawl-carrier NP,
arm O on said rock shaft, rod N' jointed at one end to said pawl-carrier, and a
coupling jointed to the other end of said rod, and secured to said arm, and adjustable
thereon at different distances from said rock shaft, substantially as described.
14. In a sewing machine, the combination with its work-holder, rotary driving shaft
furnished with a loose driving disc and a fast one, means for imparting step by step
movements to the work-holder from said driving shaft, a shipper or forked piece for
said. loose disc, and a slide-rod connected with said shipper, of the rotary cam-faced

page_text: collar, means to turn it in harmony with the step-by-step movements of the work-
holder, and the follower on said slide rod, and resting against said rotary collar, and
thereby keeping said loose disc pressed against the fast one during the main portion
of the rotation of said collar, and instantly releasing said loose disc when the pro-
jecting cam surface on said rotary collar passes the clutch tooth of the said follower,
substantially as set forth.
15. In a sewing machine, the combination with its work-holder, rotary driving
shaft, having a disc fast thereon, means for imparting step-by-step movements to the
work-holder, a brake for said fast disc, a slide rod connected to said brake, and a
spring pressing said slide-rod and brake in the direction to press the brake against
said disc, of the rotary cam-faced collar U, means to turn it in harmony with the step-
by-step movements of the work holder, and the follower U¹ on said slide-rod, and pressing
against said rotary bearing, by the action of said spring, and thereby keeping the
brake away from said disc during the main portion of the revolution of said bearing,
and permitting the brake to be instantly pressed against said disc by the action of
said spring when the clutch tooth on said rotary collar passes said follower, substantially
as set forth.
16. In a sewing machine, the combination with its work-holder, rotary driving
shaft furnished with a loose driving disc and a fast one, means for imparting step-by-
step movements to the work-holder, a shipper for said loose disc, a brake for said fast
disc, and secured to said shipper, a slide-rod connected with said combined shipper
and brake, and a spring pressing said rod, shipper, and brake in the direction to press
the brake against said fast disc and to release said loose disc, of the rotary cam-faced
collar, means to turn it step by step in harmony with the movements of the work-
holder, and the follower on said slide-rod, and pressing against said rotary cam-faced
collar by the action of said spring, substantially as set forth.
17. In a sewing machine, the combination with its work-holder, rotary driving
shaft furnished with a loose driving disc and a fast one, means for imparting step-by-
step movements to the work-holder, a shipper for said loose disc, and a slide-rod
connected with said shipper, of a lever T connected with said slide-rod, and by which
that rod and the shipper can be moved to press said loose disc against the fast one,
the rotary cam-faced collar, means to turn it step-by-step in harmony with the move-
ments of the work-holder, and the follower on said slide-rod, and resting against said
rotary cam-faced collar, substantially as set forth.
18. In a sewing machine, the combination with its work-holder, rotary driving
shaft furnished with a loose driving disc and a fast one, means for imparting step-
by-step movements to the work-holder, a shipper for said loose disc, a brake for said
fast disc and secured to said shipper, and a slide-rod connected with said combined
shipper and brake, of a spring pressing said slide-rod, shipper, and brake. in the
direction to press the brake against said fast disc and to release said loose disc,. the
lever connected with said slide-rod, and by which said rod, shipper, and brake can be
moved in the opposite direction, the rotary cam-faced collar, means to turn it step-by-
step in harmony with the movements of the work-holder; and the follower on said
slide-rod, and pressing against said rotary cam-faced collar by the action of said spring,
substantially as set forth.
19. In a button-sewing machine, the combination with its button-holder-carrier,
rotary driving shaft furnished with fast and loose driving discs, and a combined shipper
and brake therefor, the rock-shaft O, means to operate it from said driving shaft,
and means to impart step-by-step movements to the button-holder-carrier from said
rock-shaft, of the slide-rod S connected with said combined shipper and brake, a
spring to press and move said slide-rod endwise, the rotary cam-faced collar U, its
follower U, and the ratchet U2 on said rotary collar, and furnished with a pawl and
pawl-carrier connected with and operated by said rock-shaft, substantially as
described.
20. In a button-sewing machine, the combination with its button-holder-carrier,
rotary driving shaft fnrnished with fast and loose driving discs, and a combined
shipper and brake therefor, the rock-shaft O, means to operate it from said driving

page_text: shaft, and means to impart step-by-step movements to the button-holder-carrier from
said rock-shaft, of the slide-rod S connected with said combined shipper and brake,
a spring to press and move the slide rod end wise in one direction, the lever T connected
with said slide-rod, and by which that rod can be pressed and moved endwise in the
opposite direction, the cam-faced rotary collar U, its follower U¹ on said slide-rod,
and the ratchet U² on said rotary collar, and furnished with a pawl and pawl-
carrier connected with and operated by said rock-shaft, substantially as set forth.
21. In a button-sewing machine, the combination with its button-holder-carrier
rotary driving shaft furnished with fast and loose driving discs, and a combined
shipper and brake therefor, the rock-shaft O, means to operate it from said driving
shaft, and means to impart step-by-step movements to the button-holder-carrier from
said rock-shaft, of the slide rod S connected with said combined shipper and brake,
spring S2, rotary cam-faced collar U, its follower U₁, ratchet U2 on said rotary
collar, and furnished with a pawl and pawl-carrier V₁, arm 03 on said rock-shaft,
rod W jointed at one end to said pawl-carrier, and a coupling jointed to the other
end of that rod, and secured to, and adjustable along said arin, substantially as set
forth.