Knitting Machines, Construction of, Contrivances for, the Articles Knitted thereon, and the Process of Knitting the same.
Year: 1894

page_text: Date of Application, 20th Nov., 1894
Complete Specification Left. 20th Sept., 1895-Accepted, 20th Nov., 1895
Date of Application, 20 NOV., 1034
Complete Specification Left. 20th Sept., 1895-Accepted, 20th Nov.,
1895
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Knitting Machines, Construction of, Contrivances for, the Articles
Knitted thereon, and the Process of Knitting the same.
GEORGE FREDERICK STURGESS of "Overdale" Mere Road Leicester in the
County of Leicester, Hosiers Engineer do hereby declare the nature of this
invention to be as follows:-
A ribbed dial, or cone having its tricks linked together for strength, a geared
dial retarder, a twin cut dial or cone with lobsided openings, a dial having certain
sections or tricks adjustable circumferentially, a straight or circular knitting
machine in which one needle bed (hereinafter called the cylinder) is a normal
gauge the other bed (hereinafter called dial) is cut as fine again in gauge as the
cylinder to allow of two rib-needles over one post of the cylinder, and a new fabric
or knitted article of wearing apparel (hereinafter called stocking) made up of
double ribbed and plain fabric parts, or double ribbed single ribbed and plain
fabric parts, aud the process of making the same.
I strengthen the tricks of a dial or cone by leaving their inner ends uncut, or by
connecting them with a cut or uncut strip or ring of metal inserted or cast therein
or otherwise formed or attached.
Gear wheels supported by the rib arm or otherwise run round the machine and
gear with the cylinder and dial, or an additional wheel on the dial supporting
spindle, thereby holding the dial stationary with the cylinder. A chain gearing
may be employed. I cut the teeth in two of the wheels helical and by elevating
or depressing one wheel the dial is shogged for the purpose of changing the pattern
of rib. In a twin cut dial I open alternate tricks on the right side only and
alternate tricks on the left side only, a solid trick of metal remaining intact
between each pair of twin cut slots, the solid trick may be a steel insertion.
To alter the pattern of rib, say from 4/2 to 2/1 by shogging and to transfer
the loops from needle to needle certain tricks are made moveable and supported
in groups on disks from the rib spindle or pivoted in independent holes in the dial.
These tricks with their needles may be shogged one way by springs and the other
way by disks.
A straight or circular knitter in which the twin cut dial is as fine again in
gauge as in the cylinder, allowing of two rib needles to be worked between any
two cylinder needles, in order that double ribbed insertions may be made in a
plain fabric and shogged into single ribbed fabric, and that such double ribbed
insertions may be withdrawn without having to remove any of the cylinder
needles.
My new stocking has plain parts with double ribbed insertions and removals,
shogged into single ribs when required the full completement of plain needles
being kept intact.
The process of making is as follows, say on a 60 needle cylinder machine,
insert 60 rib needles, two over each alternate post, making the plain 60 needle
fabric into 2/2 double rib 120 needle fabric, I then shogg the rib needles
into 1/1 single fabric, (one rib needle over each cylinder post) and welt as usual,
making a 1/1 rib top if required, I then shogg back into 2/2 double rib for the
leg, withdrawing the rib needles at the heel or before in any manner desired,
and knit any part of the foot in plain fabric the plain needles being kept
intire

page_text: The top may be 2/2 double rib and the leg 1/1 single rib. I shogg broad
ribbed stockings, say 4/2 into 2/1 or 3 and 1/1 single ribs in any part thereof.
This method of altering from plain to double ribs being carried out in any kind
of knitted article of wearing apparel.
Dated this Fifteenth day of November 1894.
Knitting Machines, Construction of, Contrivances for, the. Articles
Knitted thereon, and the Process of Knitting the same.
GEORGE FREDERICK STURGESS of Overdale Mere Road Leicester in the
County of Leicester Hosiers Engineer do hereby declare the nature of this
invention and, in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
My invention consists of improved needle beds, means of retarding or holding
the ribber needle bed stationary with the plain, needle bed and rib "pattern
fabrics.
The nature, new features, & scope of my invention will be fully understood
from the following description & drawings.
Fig. 1, is a view of my improvements partly in elevation & partly in sections
showing the plain stationary needle beds 1, & 2, and ribber needle beds 3, 4, 5, 6,
& 7 and the gear wheels 14, 15, 16, 17, & 18 for holding, a stationary relation of
the needle beds, also the ribber arm 19, supporting the bearing, 20, of the vertical
shaft 21.
Fig. 2, is a longitudinal section of the ribber needle beds 3, 4, 5, 6, &.7, also
gear wheel 17, also the supports for the beds comprising spindle 8, tubes 9, 10,
& 11, also the tubes for supporting the cam caps 12; and 13.
Fig. 3, a partly sectional and partly elevational: view, showing the cam caps 22,
and 23, supported by their respective tubes 12 and 13, also the lever 24, (on
bracket 25, of the gear wheel 17; see Fig. 1,) having, a pin. 26, working in an
inclined slot 27; on tube 11, for shogging the needle beds 6, and 7; laterally in
relation to the stationary gear wheel 17, also lever 28, on bracket 29, on the
spindle 8, having pin. 30, working in an inclined slot 31, of the tube 9; for shogging
the needle bed 4:
Fig. 4, is a plan view of the sectional needle bed 3, with needle tricks. 32,
disposed in groups of two's, having the. right hand side trick cut at a tangent
to the right of the centre and the left hand side trick cut at a tangent to the left of
the centre, causing the rib needles 34, to converge or close up as they penetrate
the line of plain needles 35, (the openings of the needle tricks 29, are also made
lobsided or right and left,) also. the sectional needle bed 4, having radially
cut tricks 32, bridged over or connected at their inner and weaker.ends by
metal 36:
Fig. 5,, shows the needle bed 3, shogged bodily until each group of two
needles 34, embrace a plain needle 35.
Fig. 6, is a plan view of the needle beds 5, 6, and 7, in which bed 5, is a complete
circle and acts as a support for the needle beds 6, and 7. The needle bed 6, is
segmental and adjustable having its tricks alternating with the tricks of bed 5, on
half the circle only, but having its outer rim complete, extending around the outer
circle in order to support the outer ends of the tricked beds 7. Beds 7, comprises
a half circle of pivoted sections, the tricked beds 7, which are pivoted on the
bed 5, (held in position by being sunk or shouldered into the slots of the verge or
rim of bed 6,) alternating with the tricks of the bed 5, on the other half of the
circle.

page_text: pay plan aua patory in COUR
and 2, and its attachments.
one Compound not
Fig. 8, is a segmental'view of my invention as applied to an ordinary flat needle
bed type of machine having the ordinary bed on the one side and my improved
compound bed on the other side which consists of a flat fixed needle bed 1, and
adjustable bed 2, made up of the series of detachable tricks 38, the two compléte
beds working in conjunction.
Fig. 9, is a plan view of same showing the adjustable tricks 38, and needles
arranged for 1/1 rib fabric.
Fig. 10, is a plan view of same showing the adjustable tricks 38, and needles
arranged for 2/2 rib fabric.
Figs. 11, 12, and 13, show a rib pattern fabric with ribbed loops shogged and
changed from one pattern of rib to another by transferring the lines of rib loops
from one section of the fabric to another at 49, 50, 51, also at 52, 53, 54. At 55,
the fabric is what is termed "single pattern rib" viz., single lines 55, of rib loops
separated by lines 57, of plain loops. At 56, the fabric is what is termed "broad
pattern rib viz., two or more lines of rib loops grouped together between one or
more lines of plain loops.
"
In a ribber needle bed at the inner and weaker parts of the tricks 36, I'bridge
the tricks over with metal for stability see 'Figs. 2, 4, and 6.
To hold the ribber needle bed stationary with the fixed cylinder needle bed
I mount a gear wheel 17, on the ribber, see Fig. 1, the helical teeth of which
are cut the gauge of the fixed cylinder. An upright shaft 21, supported in the
bearing 20, by the ribber arm 19, carries a small gear wheel 14, meshed to the
cylinder, and a small helical cut wheel 15, meshed to the teeth of the gear
wheel 17. When extra needle beds are used I mount auxiliary gear wheels 16,
and 18, as shown in Fig. 1, the spindle 21, with revolving gear wheels 14, 15,
and 16, is carried around the fixed cylinder by the ribber arm 19. By 'these
means I hold the ribber bed stationary with the cylinder.
In my new method of changing the pattern of rib from single to broad pattern
and vice-versa, I stretch certain rib loops across the back of certain plain loops
thereby transferring certain lines of rib loops from one section of the fabric to
another, grouping up lines of rib loops together for "broad pattern" fabric and
dividing or separating them into single lines for "single pattern" fabric at will.
To do this I shogg certain needles, relative to other needles, from one point to
another, I accomplish this shogging of needles by the employment of new arrange-
ments of tricks, certain needle tricks being made adjustable laterally in relation to
the ordinary fixed needle tricks with which they work in combination.
In order to make my invention clear I call any adjustable section or part of a
needle bed, or any auxiliary bed, a bed, whether such bed carries only one needle
and trick or a number of needles and tricks, such bed or beds being laterally
adjustable in relation to any fixed bed that may be used. These adjustable tricks
may take the form of odd tricked beds 7, Fig. 6, in an otherwise ordinary needle
bed; or of pairs of right and left tangently cut tricks, bed 3, Figs. 4, and 5, in an
otherwise ordinary needle bed; or an amalgamation of an ordinary dial bed and a
conical bed used as an auxiliary needle bed.
In the case of a ribber, one complete set of needles is made up of two or more
series of needles and in the case of a cylinder or flat bed of two series of needles,
each series mounted independently adjustable to the other series, each distinct
series of needles and tricks being worked separately or conjointly as required.
In a compound cylinder needle bed see Fig. 1, or a flat needle bed, the series
are worked by one set of ordinary cams see Figs. 8, 9, and 10, the construction
being as follows:-
The compound cylinder or Hat needle bed is made up of a series of fixed needle
tricks 32, in the rigid needle bed 1, and a series of detachable tricks 38, called the
adjustable needle bed 2, the whole working as a compound bed in conjunction with
the ordinary bed opposite. It will be observed that every other of the needle

page_text: tricks in the bed 1, are cut away and longitudinal slots 37, are made in the back of
the bed through which the detachable series of tricks 38, are threaded. The
adjustable bed 2, has saw gates 39, parallel with the needle tricks into and through
which the lugs 40, of the detachable tricks 38, are secured by the screws 41.
By pulling forward the lever 42, the adjustable bed of tricks 38, together with
their needles are shogged in one direction by pushing the lever back they are
shogged in the other direction.
"
"
The combination of the needles and tricks in Fig. 9, is arranged for 1/1 "single
pattern rib, the combination of the needles and tricks in Fig. 10, is arranged
for 2/2 "broad pattern rib, by reason of the needles in the adjustable bed 2,
being shogged from one point to another in relation to the other needles of the
other bed.
In mounting a series of needles for a rib needle bed, I vary the construction of
certain of the series of needle tricks and the consequent grouping up of the same;
the whole series, however the needles are arranged, combining to make one
complete set of rib needles see Fig. 1. In using only two series of rib needles one
series may ride in the bed 3, and one series in the bed 5, which it will be noticed
are two distinct needle beds in a segmental form (each of which may be used in an
unbroken circle having needle cams entirely independent of the other,) or one
series in the bed 5, and one series in the bed 6, which it will be noticed is in the
form of a compound needle bed, wherein only one set of cams are employed. In
this compound form of ribber bed one series of tricks is mounted with an inde-
pendent radial adjustment within and between the other series of tricks, the
adjustable tricks being pivoted or made out of a disc, or a combination of both
forms as shown in Fig. 6.
By combinations of these new arrangements of tricks I get one set of needles
made up of 2, 3, 4, or more distinct series of needles all or any of which may be
used in combination, as needs demand, to form a working set of needles.
As will be noticed a series does not necessarily extend all round the circle, and
alternate rib needles may be carried by alternate beds all round the circle, or only
two or three rib needles may be carried by a given bed, the circle of needles being
completed by those carried by another bed.
By reference to Figs. 1, 2, 3, 4, and 6, it will be observed how five kinds of
ribber needle beds are amalgamated into one complete set of beds and any one of
them may be shogged separately in relation to the others by the use of levers in
the form of levers 24, and 28.
Bed 3, Fig. 4 is segmental and mounted on the spindle 8, its tricks 32, are
grouped in pairs and cut at right and left tangents to the centre in order to
converge the two rib needles into the space usually allotted to one; that is to say
between two normally disposed plain needles 35, (to prevent trapping the thread
when drawing the yarn loop the openings 29ª are made lopsided or right and left in
order to keep the walls of the tangentially cut tricks intact,) this makes 2/2 rib
fabric and by shogging the bed bodily until each pair of rib needles embrace a
plain needle 35, see Fig. 5, the 2/2 rib fabric is changed to 1/1 rib fabric.
The segmental needle bed 4, see Figs. 2 and 4, having ordinary radial tricks is
mounted on the sleeve 9, and may be shogged bodily by depressing the lever 28,
the pin 30, of which rides in the inclined slot 31, of the sleeve 9. 23, Fig. 3, is an
ordinary cam cap which works the needles of the compound segmental bel 3, and 4,
and is mounted on the sleeve 13, driven by the pin 44, passing through the driving
bracket 45, into the rib arm 19.
The needle bed 5, see Figs. 1, 2, and 6, it will be noticed is a complete circle
and is supported by the sleeve 10, and has certain tricks cut away to admit the
tricks of the beds 6, and 7 bed 6, is segmental and is supported by sleeve 11.
.
By depressing the lever 24, the pin 26, slides down the inclined slot 27,
and shoggs the beds 6, and 7, in relation to the bed 5, needle bed 7, it will
be noticed is made up of a section of detachable tricked beds 7, pivoted on the
bed 5, by the screws 46, and held in position in a trick of the rim or verge of the

page_text: bed 6, as seen in Fig. 1, therefore by shogging bed 6, its rim or verge shoggs i
the beds 7, laterally on their pivot screws 46.
*F
22, in Fig. 3, is shown an ordinary conical cam cap 23, and an ordinary dial cam
cap 22, for actuating the needles in the compound beds 5, 6, and 7, mounted on the
sleeve 12, driven round by the pin 48, in the ordinary manner.
My improved rib pattern fabrics see Figs. 11, 12, and 13, in which it will be
seen at 49, 50, and 51, the shogging is carried on all round the circle for which
purpose the rib needles are put in their respective beds all round the circle are
made up of two distinct patterns of rib, viz., single pattern rib, 55, and broad.i
pattern rib 56, in which the pattern changes are brought about (without the need
of transferring from needle to needle, viz., rib loops to plain needles and vice-versa)
by transferring certain lines of rib loops from one section of the fabric to another,
certain of the rib loops being stretched laterally over and across the back of the
plain loops, as seen at the point of change, 49, 50, and 51. For instance to change
from 1/1 fabric to 2/2 see 49, Fig. 11, I prefer to use a solid bed 3, Figs. 4, and 5,
the bed being a complete circle & used singly, and shogg the single rib loops 55,'
into groups of two's 56, making 2/2 fabric. By putting odd needles in an extra
bed such as bed 5, or 6, I can make fabric with odd lines of loops shogged such
as 52 Fig. 11, or 3/1 fabric 55, into 6/2 fabric 56 Fig. 12, to do which I prefer to
use two beds one in the cone shape 4, and one in the dial shape 5, bed 6, being
requisitioned when shogging odd loops as at 53, Fig. 12, or 1/1 fabric 55, into 3/3
fabric 56, Fig. 13, to do which I prefer to use dial bed 5, to hold every third rib
needle and dial bed 6, to hold every first and second needle the three ribber
needles being brought together for 3/3 and the first and second needle being
shogged together into position for the 1/1 pattern Fig. 13, to shogg odd needles
as at 54, and 56, bed 3, is requisitioned to carry such odd needles.
It will be seen that by proper arrangement of the needle beds the change in the
rib pattern may not extend all round as seen at 52, 53, and 54, Figs. 11, 12,
and 13, and shogging and changing may be repeated frequently on all or a section
of the fabric only.
I have shown one way of making one set of needles up of an adjustable series,
without attempting to show the many ways of making or applying the invention.
Having now particularly described and ascertained, the nature object and
methods of my said invention and the manner and means by which the same is to
be performed I declare that what I claim is,
1. In circular knitting machines dial or conical ribber needle bed having the
inner and weaker ends of the needle tricks bridged over or connected with metal,
substantially and for the purposes set forth.
2. In knitting machines a needle bed the tricks of which are disposed in pairs
at an angle to each other causing the needles to converge to one point in their
outward thrust substantially and for the purposes set forth.
3. In knitting machines a dial or conical needle bed the tricks of which are
disposed in pairs the pairs of tricks being cut at an angle to the centre and to
each other causing the needles to converge to one point in their outward thrust
substantially and for the purposes set forth.
4. In a knitting machine needle bed in which the tricks are disposed in pairs
with lopsided or right and left openings the intervening wall of metal being left
intact substantially and for the purposes set forth.
5. In a knitting machine a set of sliding knitting needles made up of a series of
laterally stationary and a series of laterally adjustable needles working conjointly
to form one complete set of needles for use in the building of one set of knitted
loops, the whole series or set being worked in one plane by one set of cams
substantially and for the purposes set forth.
6. In a ribber knitting machine in combination a set of plain needles, a second
or rib set of needles, which rib set of needles is made up of a series of laterally
stationary and a series of laterally adjustable needles working in conjunction to

page_text: form one complete set of needles for use in the building of the ribber set of loops,
one series of ribber needles being worked on one dial plan, by one set of cams and
one series of ribber needles being worked on another cone plan by another set of
cams substantially and for the purposes set forth.
7. In knitting machines a compound 'needle dial bed 5, 6, and 7, having two or
more series of needle tricks carrying two or more series of needles which combine
to make up one complete set of needles, the whole series or set being actuated by
one set of cams, one or more series of tricks and needles being adjustable laterally
to, the other series of tricks and needles, substantially and for the purposes sét
forth.
8. In knitting machines a compound conical needle bed 3, and 4, having two or
more segmental series of needle tricks carrying two or more series of needles which
combine to make one complete set of needles, the whole series or set being actuated
by one set of cams, one segmental series of tricks and needles being adjustable
bodily to the other segmental series of tricks and needles, substantially and for the
purposes set forth.
9. In knitting machines, in combination a dial needle bed such as 5, 6, or 7,
carrying a series of needles and having a dial set of cams 22, working conjointly
with an auxiliary conical needle bed such as 3, or 4, also carrying a series of
needles and having an auxiliary set of conical cams 23, the series of needles and
tricks in the one bed combining with the series of needles and tricks in the other
bed to make one complete set of needles and tricks, the tricks 32 of which are
connected or bridged over with metal 36, and alternate tricks 32, are opened out
on the left and alternate tricks are opened out on the right 29ª one series being
adjustable laterally to the other series, substantially and for the purposes set
forth.
10. In knitting machines a compound cylinder needle bed 1 and 2, Fig. 1, made
up of two series of needle tricks carrying two series of needles which combine to
make up one complete set of needles the whole series or set being actuated by one
set of cams: one series of tricks and needles being adjustable 'laterally to the other
series of tricks and needles in the same bed, as seen in Fig. 1, comprised of the
bed 1, with tricks 32, the bed 2, made up of adjustable tricks 38, having the
lugs 40, screwed through the saw gates 39, and made adjustable by the lever 42,
substantially and for the purposes set forth.
11. In knitting machines a compound flat bed 1, and 2, Figs. 8, and 9, and 10,
made up of two series of needle tricks carrying two series of needles which
combine to make up one complete set of needles, the whole series or set being
actuated by one set of cams: one series of needles and tricks being adjustable
laterally to the other series of tricks and needles in the same bed as seen in Fig. 1,
comprised of bed 1, with tricks 32, bed 2, made up of adjustable tricks 38, having
the lugs 40, screwed through the saw gates 39, and made adjustable by the lever 42,
substantially and for the purposes set forth.
12. In a knitting machine, in combination, the compound cylinder bed 1, and 2,
compound conical bed 3, and 4, with its spindle 8 and sleeve 9, and conical cam
cap 23, and its sleeve 13, driving pin 44, and bracket 45, the compound dial
bed 5, 6, and 7, with its sleeves 10 and 11, and dial cam cap 22, and its sleeve 12,
the gear wheels 14, 15, 16, 17, and 18, bearing 20, and shaft 21, the shogging
levers 24, and 28, with their pin 26, and inclined slot 27, substantially and for the
purposes set forth.
13. In a circular knitting machine having a stationary cylinder the gear
wheel 17, fixed with the ribber bed, the bed and gear wheel being held stationary
with the cylinder by being meshed thereto through the wheels 14, and 15, in order
to maintain a stationary relation of the ribber bed with the stationary cylinder,
substantially and for the purposes set forth.
14. A fabric such as shown in Figs. 11, 12, and 13, in which one full part is
made and continued in (single pattern) rib 55, and one full part is made and
continued in (broad pattern) rib 56, certain lines of rib loops in the one part being

page_text: transferred from one section to another section of the fabric and grouped up into
multiple lines of rib loops in the other parts and vice-versa, the rib loops passing
over and across the back of the plain loops at the point of change of pattern 49,
50, and 51, also at 52, 53, and 54, substantially and for the purposes set forth.
"
15. The method of changing from one continuous "single pattern" of rib to a
continuous "broad pattern of rib, by, first, arranging the needles for single
pattern rib, second, making a length of "single pattern" rib, third, shogging
alternate needles until they join neighbouring needles and their loops combine and
the shogged loops stretch across the back of the adjoining plain needle loops,
fourth, making a length of broad rib and vice-versa, substantially and for the
purposes set forth.
16. In knitting machines I combine with a plain needle bed and its needles a
ribber needle bed having tricks cut as fine again in gauge as are the tricks of the
plain bed that is to say, two needle tricks in the ribber bed take up the gauge
space of one in the plain needle bed, the tricks of the ribber bed being equidistant
or cut in pairs and at a tangent to the other, substantially and for the purposes
set forth.
Dated this 19th day of September 1895.
GEORGE FREDERICK STURGESS,
Inventor.