Improvements in Boot and Shoe Sewing Machinery.
Year: 1898

page_text: DEFUIFICATION.
Improvements in Boot and Shoe Sewing Machinery.
I, MARK THOMAS DENNE, of 28, Victoria Street, Westminster, in the County
of London, Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as
follows:-
This invention relates to lock-stitch sewing machines of the kind described in the
Specification of Letters Patent No. 21711 of 1892, and employed chiefly for "welted"
and "turnshoe" work.
The said invention comprises improvements whereby such machines are rendered
more efficient, the manipulation of the work facilitated, and a better quality of
stitch produced.
In one mode of carrying the invention into effect, a curved needle and awl are
employed, each fixed in a radial carrier, and the needle carrier and awl carrier are
oscillated in a vertical plane by separate motions upon a common axis. The said
motions for oscillating the needle and awl carriers comprise in each case a cam upon
the main shaft of the machine, a connecting rod having a bifurcated end adapted to
embrace the said shaft and be guided thereby, and a cam roller operated by the said
cam so as to impart a longitudinal motion to the rod, the other end of which is con-
nected to a toothed segment mounted upon a rock-shaft and gearing with a smaller
segment upon the carrier.
The shuttle is located behind the needle and awl carriers and is rotated in a hori-
zontal plane by means of spiral gearing from the main shaft. Within the shuttle is
provided a circular cavity adapted to receive the cop-holder, which is retained in
position by a spring-controlled lever hinged upon the shuttle race or plate and having
that part which comes in contact with the cop-holder rounded so as to allow the loop
to pass between without excessive friction. By the arrangement of the shuttle,
needle, and awl, above described, the in-sole of the boot may be d in a nearly
horizontal position while the welt is being sewn in, thus giving the operator more
control over the work.
The thread hook is reciprocated in a vertical direction, being mounted in the lower
end of a sliding rack operated by a cam, connecting rod, and rocking segment, similar
to those employed in the needle and awl motions.
The welt guide or gauge instead of being a fixture as described in the Specification
above referred to, is arranged to move forward with the work during the feeding
motion, and has also an oscillating motion, upon the same axis as the needle and awl
carrier, in order to clear the work on the back stroke, being locked during the
piercing operation by means of a ratchet-like segment upon the welt guide lever, in
which engages a cam-operated pawl.
The channel guide is mounted upon a rocking lever operated by a cam, and is
moved laterally together with the awl and the welt guide during the feeding motion.
The channel guide has also a lifting motion in order to clear the work on the back
stroke.
Dated this 92nd do of Wh1000

page_text: Improvements in Boot and Shoe Sewing Machinery.
I, MARK THOMAS DENNE, of 28, Victoria Street, Westminster, in the County of
London, Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement :-
21
This invention relates to lockstitch sewing machines of the kind described in the
Specification of Letters Patent No. 21711 of 1892, and employed chiefly for "welted'
and "turnshoe" work.
The said invention comprises improvements whereby such machines are rendered
more efficient, the manipulation of the work facilitated, and a better quality of stitch
produced.
The accompanying drawings illustrate a welt sewing machine embodying the
several features of the invention.
Fig. 1 being a side elevation of the machine.
Fig. 2 a front elevation.
Figs. 3 and 4 and 5 shew the details of the feed and channel guide motions,
Figs. 6 and 7, the needle and awl motions.
Figs. 8 and 9, the shuttle driving gear.
Figs. 10, 11 and 12 details of the shuttle on an enlarged scale, Fig. 12 being a
section on line 12-12 of Fig. 11.
Fig. 12 is a section on line 13-13 of Fig. 11. .
Figs. 12, 12º, & 12" are perspective views of the shuttle driver, shuttle, and
cop-holder, respectively.
Figs. 13 and 14, the thread-hook motion.
Figs. 15, 16, and 17, the welt-guide motion.
Figs. 18 and 19, the take-up motion, and
Figs. 20 and 21, the auxiliary take-up and thread locking motions.
Similar letters indicate corresponding parts in all the drawings.
a is the frame of the machine, supporting in bearings, a¹, the main or driving
shaft b, which shaft carries the cams and gearing for operating the various working
parts of the machine hereinafter described, and also the driving wheel t.
The feed motion, shewn in Figs. 3, 4, and 5 in detail, and generally in
Figs. 1 and 2, consists of a cam k, fixed upon the shaft b, a lever mounted upon
an adjustable pivot or fulcrum k² and having at one end a roller k³ engaging in the
groove or race of the cam, while the other end is connected by a pin to the feed
slide. The feed slide is guided in a circular fitting a² in the frame of the
machine and receives a longitudinal reciprocating motion from the feed lever k¹, the
extent of which is determined by the position of the adjustable pivot 2. The said
pivot, shewn more clearly in Fig. 5, is formed as a bolt having a square head 12 and
clamped by means of the nut 13 at any point in the slot of lever k¹. The reduced
end of the pivot works in a bearing in a rectangular block 15 sliding in a groove ³
in the frame. An overhanging strip at on the frame maintains the lever
position.
in
Upon the reduced end of the feed slide 4 are mounted plates and 1º, the
plate having a boss 10 which acts as a distance piece between the two and an
upwardly extending portion through which the rockshaft f (to be hereinafter
referred to,) passes so as to further guide the plate.
The needle carrier c, Figs. 6 and 7, is provided with a needle c¹, and oscillated
upon the axis e by means of the cam c² having a groove or race c³ in which engages
a roller c on the connecting rod c. This connecting rod is bifurcated at one
end c as shewn, and adapted to embrace the shaft b and be guided thereby, while

page_text: the other end c' is connected to a swinging lever c³, mounted loosely on the rock-
shaft f, and having a toothed portion c³ engaging with the teeth c10 upon the needle
carrier c.
The awl carrier d, provided with the awl d¹ receives motion from the cam (2,
having a race d³ in which engages a roller d on the connecting rod d³. This
connecting rod is similar to that employed in the needle motion, and is connected
to a similar swinging lever ds, upon the rockshaft f, the toothed portion d' of which
engages with the teeth do upon the awl carrier . Upon the awl carrier is an
elongated boss or sleeve d¹¹, to be hereinafter referred to. The awl carrier has
also a lateral motion in order to effect the feed, the means for obtaining which
will be hereinafter described.
The shuttle g, Figs. 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 12ª, 128, 12%, and 12", is mounted in a guide
plate or race g12 and rotated by the projection g' upon the shuttle driver g². The
said driver is fixed upon a spindle g³, rotated in the bearings gt in the frame, by
means of the spiral wheel 5 upon the shaft b, which drives the pinion g6 upon the
spindle, within the shuttle is a circular cavity g adapted to receive the cop-holder g³,
which is retained in position by a lever g hinged at go to the shuttle plate g¹² and
pressed by the spring gl against a screw 13 in the said plate, the screw enables the
clearance between the shuttle and cop-holder to be adjusted. The contact pieces g15
upon the lever are rounded as shewn in order to allow the loop to pass freely, and one
of these pieces coming in contact with a projection g¹ on the cop-holder, prevents
rotation of the holder.
The thread hook h, Figs. 13 and 14, is fixed in the lower end of a vertical sliding
rack h, which receives a reciprocating motion from the cam h², upon the shaft b, in
the race h³ of which engages the roller h* upon the connecting rod h and to the end ho
of this rod is connected the lever fixed upon the rock shaft f, and upon the rock
shaft is fixed a collar the toothed portion 8 of which gears with the rack h¹.
The welt guide or gauge j, Figs. 15, 16 and 17 instead of being a fixture as described
in the specification above referred to, is arranged to move forward with the work
during the feeding motion, being for this purpose fixed upon a lever j¹ mounted upon
the elongated boss of the awi carrier d. The lever is provided with an exten-
sion adapted to fit between the plates 48 and k upon the feed slide (Fig. 3 and 4)
whereby the awl carrier d, and the welt guide lever ¹, being prevented from moving
laterally with relation to each other owing to the lever j being confined between the
flange or collar 12 and the nut upon the carrier, are moved laterally back and
forth together with the feed slide so as to effect the feeding of the work. The welt
guide has also an oscillating motion upon the boss d¹¹, in order to clear the work on
the back stroke of the feed motion, this motion being imparted to it by the projec-
tion m3 upon the take-up cam m¹, which comes in contact with a roller 2 upon the
lever 3, the said lever being pivoted at 12 and having a toothed portion gearing
with a similar toothed portion j upon the lever j¹.
The channel guide l, Figs. 3 and 4, is fixed in a lever U, pivoted upon the rock
shaft f, the said lever having a lateral motion together with the awl carrier and the
welt guide during the feeding motion, such motion being obtained from the feed
slide owing to the part 12 of the lever ¹ fitting between the plates 8 and upon
the said slide. The channel guide lever has also a rocking motion upon the rock
shaft, produced by the cam-like projection d¹ upon the edge of the awl cam d²
which is kept in contact with the roller 13 upon the lever by means of the spring 14.
By this means the channel guide also is lifted clear of the work during the backward
stroke of the feed motion.
The take-up lever m Figs. 18 and 19 is oscillated upon the shaft b by a variable
stroke motion, consisting of a cam m¹, having a cam groove or race m² in which
engages a roller m² upon the lever m pivoted upon the stud m³ in the frame a, the
motion of this lever being transmitted to the take-up lever m by the connecting
link m which link is mounted at one end upon a fixed pin m³ in the lever m* and at
the other end upon a stud or bolt m¹¹ adjustably fixed in a slot m¹º in the take-up

page_text: the stroke of the take-up lever may be varied by adjusting th
stud ml in the slot m10
The thread guide p, which operates in conjunction with the thread hook or puller
so as to place the thread in the barb of the needle c¹, as described in the specification
above. referred to, is in this case mounted upon the channel guide lever Figs.
and 4.
The thread q, passes first around the usual tension wheels (not shewn in the draw
ings,) thence over a guide pulley n to the thread locking wheel o, (hereinafter
described) as shewn in Figs. 20 and 21, thence to the auxiliary take-up roller r (also
described hereafter,) around which it passes to the roller m12 of the take-up lever m
From the take-up the thread passes over the guide pullies s (Fig. 20,) & s¹ (Fig. 2,]
through the eye p¹ (Fig. 3,) of the thread guide p, to the work.
The thread locking wheel o, Figs. 20 and 21, is mounted loosely upon a spindle o
in the frame a, and the thread passes partly round in the groove of the wheel, being
locked at the proper time by the block o2 between which and the wheel the thread is
jammed. This jamming action is obtained as follows:-The block is carried
adjustably on a link o³ (which is provided with an elongated hole as shewn, and
guided thereby upon the spindle o¹). The said link is connected at the end of to an
arm o of a bell-crank lever of pivoted at o' to the frame a, and on the other arm of
said lever is a roller o which comes in the path of a cam-like projection c" upon the
needle cam c², by which means the link o is moved longitudinally so as to clamp or
release the thread as required.
The welt guide or gauge j, as previously stated, has an oscillating motion upon the
boss of the awl carrier but is normally kept against the work by a spring jl one
end of which is fixed to the lever 3 and the other to the frame a.
ever to rigidly support the work during the piercing action of the awl, the welt-guide
In order, how-
lever is locked by the following means:-Upon the lever j³, geared to the welt
guide lever as previously described, an extension having ratchet teeth js in which
at the proper time engages a pawl j fixed in a lever 10, the said lever having a
roller kept by the spring j13 in contact with a projection m¹ upon the take-up
cam m³, whereby the locking motion is effected.
The auxiliary take up, Figs. 20 and 21 consists of a lever 1, pivoted upon the
spindle and normally held against a stop by a spring 3 one end of which is
attached to the lever and the other to the hook as upon the frame a, the said lever 1
carrying the roller r, over which the thread passes as above described.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is
1. In a sewing machine of the kind described, the combination, with an awl carrier
having a lateral motion in order to effect the feeding of the work, of a welt guide
connected thereto and arranged to move laterally therewith so as to assist the feed,
substantially as described and illustrated in the accompanying drawings.
2. In a sewing machine of the kind described, the combination, with a welt guide
or gauge operating as set forth in the preceding claim, of the means for causing the
same to recede from the work on the return stroke of the feeding motion, substan-
tially, as described.
3. In a sewing machine of the kind described, the combination, with an awl
carrier and a welt guide moving laterally together to effect the feeding of the work,
of the means for causing the channel guide to move therewith, substantially as and
for the purpose set forth.
4. In a sewing machine of the kind described, the means for operating the needle
and awl respectively, substantially as described and illustrated in the accompanying
drawings.
5. In a sewing machine, the construction and arrangement of the shuttle and
cop-holder, operating substantially as described and as illustrated in the accompany-
ing drawings.

page_text: 6. The construction and arrangement of the sewing machine hereinbefore de-
scribed, and illustrated in the accompanying drawings, substantially as and for the
purpose set forth.
Dated this noth
1000