Improvements in Cape-collars.
Year: 1889

page_text: Date of Application, 13th Aug., 1889-Accepted, 21st Sept., 1889
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
[Communicated from abroad by PHILIP F. MILLER, of 1035, 23rd Street, West Troy,
Manufacturer, NOEL E. POWERS. of 333, Third Avenue, Lansingburgh, Foreman,
and GEORGE W. WILEUR and HARVEY WILBUR, both of 1971 Eighth Street,
Troy. Manufacturers, all in the State of New York, United States of America.]
Improvements in Cape-collars.
I, HENRY HARRIS LAKE, of the firm of Haseltine, Lake & Co., Patent Agents,
Southampton Buildings, in the County of Middlesex, do hereby declare the nature
of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
:-
This invention relates to improvements in Cape-collars, and consists of the novel
construction and combination of parts hereinafter described and subsequently
claimed.
Similar letters refer to similar parts in the drawings in which Fig. 1—is a top
plan view of the cape detached from the collar proper, and laid out flat.
Fig. 2 is a similar view of the cape attached to the collar proper or top part.
Fig. 3-is a side elevation of the completed collar showing the relative position of
its parts while in use upon the neck of the wearer.
Fig. 4 is a front view of the collar in the form shown in Fig. 3.-Fig. 5-is a
plan view showing the outer face side of the top part of the collar, as it would appear
when laid out flat before the cape was attached. Fig. 6-is a similar view of the inner
face ply of the top part when made of two strips stitched together.
Fig. 7 is a cross section of the bottom or cape part taken on the broken line
7-7-in Fig. 1.-Fig. 8-is a cross section of the top part taken on the broken
line 8-8-in Fig. 5.-Fig. 9-is a cross section of the inner ply taken on the
broken line 9-9-in Fig. 6.-Fig. 10--is a cross section of the collar as a whole
taken on the broken line 10-10-in Fig. 4.-Fig. 11-is a cross section similar to
that taken at the broken line 10-10-in Fig. 4-showing a modified form of
construction.
The cross-sectional views are somewhat exaggerated in size and proportion, for
convenience in illustration.
The collar proper or top part may be made in any known form of ladies collar mado
up of two or more plies of fabric, but having one ply wider than the collar proper, so
that it projects below the lower edge of such collar. As generally constructed the
capes of cape collars are made of a single ply of fabric.
The cape serves to retain the collar in proper position upon the neck, and is made
to flare or project angularly to the top part of the collar, to better fit the form of the
wearer. It is very desirable to reinforce the cape ply along the edge by which it is
united to the top part to increase its strength and durability; also to cover the seam
by which the cape is joined to the collar proper to prevent its chafing and irritating
the neck of the wearer. I am able to cover this scam and at the same time employ
the seam-cover to reinforce the cape, by extending o one of the plies of the collar proper
down below its lower edge and "spring-stitching" the same onto the cape-body, or by
securing one edge of a separate reinforcing strip to the top part by a line of stitching
spring-stitching" the other edge to the body of the cape. The capes of cape-
collars are made to flare or project angularly to the top part, by giving the inner
edge of the cape a curved or concave form, and securing the edge to a comparatively
straight edge along the bottom of the top part of the collar.
and "
The angle of projection depends upon the degree of curvature of the curved edge.
The sharper the curve the nearer will the angle of projection approach that of a right
angle. A is the cape which may have a binding strip A'-around its outer edge.
Its inner edge is ent to form a sharp curve described by the circular line A-The top
part or collar proper B-is shown formed of three plies B1-B2-and B³.

page_text: The plies Band B³-are turned in at their upper edge, and all three plies secured
together by a line of stitching B7.-The ply B'-is made wider than the other plies to
form an extended or cape-lapping portion B-which may be provided with one or
more notches B and have its projecting or cape-lapping edges finish-folded, as shown
at Be The inner curved edge of the cape is then inserted between the lower folded-in
edges of ply Band ply B—as shown in Fig. 10-and secured therein by the line
of stitching B
"
The cape-lapping ply B-the lower edge of which is approximately straight is then
spring-stitched," as hereinafter fully explained, to the body-part of the cape, by the
line of stitching Band when desired several plies of the body part may be
additionally secured by a line of stitching B10-I apply the term "spring stitched"
to an approximately straight edge lapping ply, and mean by such term that ench a
ply is secured to a lapped curved-edge ply, by a curved line of stitching, in such a
manner that the straight and curved edges of the lapping plies are made substantially
parallel with the curved line of stitching and with each other.
As the approximately-straight cape-lapping edge of the extended ply is guided by
the sewing machine operator .to insert the curved line of stitching B' substantially
parallel with the inner concaved edge of the cape part, such edge is subjected to a
tension force, applied on a line running longitudinally of the straight edge, by which
force the cape-lapping portion of the extended ply or strip is slightly stretched, and
the cape-part is subjected to a tension-force applied on lines running transversely of
the cape, and angularly to the direction lines of the tension-force applied to the lapping
straight edge, by which the cape-part is slightly fulled along its curved edge, so that
the resulting curves in the line of stitching and parallel edges, are less sharp than the
curve described by the inner edge of the detached cape when laid out flat, as shown
in Fig. 1. The lapping plies being made of flexible yielding material, the parts
assume a smooth appearance when laundered, or pressed, a considerable degree of
the curvature of the cape-edge being imparted to the once straight cape-lapping edge,
as appears in Fig. 2-in which the broken line C-represents the edge of the cape-
lapping ply, after the same has been "spring-stitched" by the line of stitching B-
and pressed out smooth in the process of laundering. The position shown in Fig. 2-
is that occupied by the finished laundered collar when unconstrained, the cape being
nearly right-angular to the top part. When the ends of the collar are drawn together
for use, as shown in Figs. 3 and 4-the cape is drawn down to about the angle
shown in Fig. 3-thereby being adapted to the form of the wearer and affording a
comfortable means of securing the collar upon the neck. I am thus able not only to
reinforce and strengthen the cape at its junction with the top part, but to cover the
junction seam and afford a smooth surface at every part which comes in contact with
the person of the wearer.
The operation of "spring-stitching" the straight-edge lapping ply to the cape may
be facilitated by inserting a plurality of notches or slits Bin its lapping edge, and
in some kinds of fabric such notches are necessary, but by using, for the lapping ply,
strips of fabric cut on the bias, that is, diagonally of the warp and woof, no notches or
slits are necessary and can be dispensed with.
The lapping ply B'--can be made of two strips as a-and b-Fig. 9-secured to
each other by a line of stitching a-in which case the lower or lapping part b
could be made of a strip of fabric cut on the bias, the strip u-being cut in the usual
manner.
"
When desired the bias-cut strip can be secured along its upper edge directly to the
top part by line of stitching B10-and its lower edge "spring-stitched
to the cape as
before explained.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed as communicated to me by
my foreign correspondent, I declare that what I claim is :-
First A cape-collar, consisting of the collar proper, formed of a plurality of
approximately-straight-edge plies, one of which plies..extends below the bottom-edge

page_text: of such collar proper, and the cape formed of a ply of fabric having its inner
edge concaved or curved, all of said plies being fastened together, by a line of stitching,
along the lower straight edge of the collar proper, and the inner curved edge of the
cape, the extended collar ply lapping the cape and having its lapping portion notched
and secured to the cape-body by a line of stitching along the edge of the lapping ply,
substantially as described.
Second In a cape-collar, the combination with the collar part having an
approximately-straight edge and the cape part having a concaved edge, such parts
being secured together by a line of stitching along such edges; of a reinforce strip,
having its longitudinal edges cut, on the bias, approximately straight and parallel with
each other, secured to the collar part by a line of stitching along one of such edges,
and to the cape part by another line of stitching along the other of such edges.
Third A cape-collar, consisting of the collar proper formed of a plurality of
approximately straight-edge plies, one of which plies extends below the bottom-edge
of such collar-proper and is composed of two approximately-straight-edge strips of
united fabric united with each other along one edge, the strip, forming the extended
or cape-lapping portion of the ply, being cut on the bias, and the cape formed of a ply
of fabric having its inner edge concaved or curved, all of said plies being fastened
together by a line of stitching along the lower straight-edge of the collar proper, and
the inner curved edge of the cape, the extended collar-ply lapping the cape and having
its lapping edge secured to the cape body by a line of stitching along the edge of the
lapping ply, substantially as described.
Dated this 13th day of August 1889.
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
45, Southampton Buildings, London, Agents for the Applicant.