IMPROVEMENTS IN NEEDLE WOVEN TAPESTRY AND IN FABRIC THEREFOR."
Year: 1882

page_text: 86
ETTERS PATENT to Alfred Julius Boult, of the firm of W. P. Thompson
& Boult, Agents for Foreign Patent Solicitors, 323, High Holborn, London, in
the County of Middlesex, and 6, Lord Street, Liverpool, in the County of
Lancaster, for an invention of IMPROVEMENTS IN NEEDLE WOVEN
TAPESTRY AND IN FABRIC THEREFOR."-A communication from abroad by
Candace T. Wheeler, of the city and State of New York, United States of
America, Gentlewoman.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Alfred Julius Boult at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 14th March 1882.
ALFRED JULIUS BOULT of the firm of W. P. Thompson & Boult Agents for
Foreign Patent Solicitors of 323 High Holborn London in the County of
" IMPROVE-
Middlesex, and of 6 Lord Street Liverpool in the County of Lancaster
MENTS IN NEEDLE WOVEN TAPESTRY AND IN FABRIC THEREFOR A communication
from abroad by Candace T. Wheeler, of the city and State of New York United
States of America, Gentlewoman.
The fabric is woven with a tight warp and also a fine loose warp which loose or
longer warp passing at each alternate shoot of the loom holds the woof threads
upon the tight warp threads so as to display the woof threads with the warp
threads crossing them at regular intervals.
The embroidery or needle woven portion is inserted by selecting the proper
colours to produce the required tints and passing them first by a a needle through
the woven fabric from the back and then passing the ornamental thread under the
visible portions of the warp threads and over the visible part of the woof thread
the required length for the design and then passing it through to the back;
fabric is woven of such material and of such tension that the inserted threads
compress the woof threads and cover them without any appreciable prominence
and appear as if woven into the fabric.
the

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed
by the said Alfred Julius Boult in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
14th September 1882.
ALFRED JULIUS BOULT of the firm of W. P. Thompson & Boult Agents for
Foreign Patent Solicitors 323 High Holborn London in the county of Middlesex
and 6 Lord Street Liverpool in the County of Lancaster. "IMPROVEMENTS IN
NEEDLE WOVEN TAPESTRY AND IN FABRIC THEREFOR"-A communication from
abroad by Candace T. Wheeler, of the City and State of New York, United States
of America Gentlewoman.
The fabric is woven with a tight warp and also a fine loose warp which loose or
longer warp passing at each alternate shoot of the loom holds the woof threads
upon the tight warp threads so as to display the woof threads with the warp
threads crossing them at regular intervals.
The embroidery or needle woven portion is inserted by selecting the proper
colours to produce the required tints and passing them first by a needle through
the woven fabric from the back and then passing the ornamental thread under the
visible portions of the warp threads and over the visible part of the woof thread
the required length for the design and then passing it through the back; the
fabric is woven of such material and of such tension that the inserted threads
compress the woof threads and cover them without any appreciable prominence
and appear as if woven into the fabric.
This said invention relates: First to a special fabric susceptible of receiving
ornamental threads introduced by hand but apparently loom woven therein.
Second in the modes of introducing such threads and simulating loom woven
fabrics containing woven designs.
Third in the combination of the fabric and needle woven ornamental threads
forming artistic designs apparently loom woven but really embroidered by hand.
The fabric for this purpose with the background or field into which the
embroideries are worked has a soft or compressible woof on its face displayed
between fine warp threads, which fine warp threads pass alternately to the face
and back of the fabric, and bind the soft woof threads over a series of intervening
warp threads and also hold the woof threads of the back (which may be of the
same or different material from the front woof threads) against the intervening
warp threade.
Figure 1 shows a plan of the face or "right" side of the fabric or woven cloth.
Figure 2 a plan of the back or wrong side.
Figure 3 a section lengthwise on the line X X in figures 1 and 2.
Figure 4 a section lengthwise on the line Y Y in Figures 1 and 2 and Figure 5
shows a transverse section on the line Z Z in Figure 1.
The several figures are drawn on a scale enlarged about eight times lineally for
the greater facility of distinguishing the several threads.
The same letters of reference apply to the same parts in the several figures.
A A represent the soft or compressible woof threads of the face.
BB the woof threads of the back.
CC the tight or straight warp threads.
DD the serpentine or binding threads of the warp.
The threads C forming the straight warp pass in straight line between the face
woof threads A and the back woof threads B as shown in figure 3.
The woof threads A of the face and the woof threads B of the back are held

page_text: against the straight warp threads C by the serpentine warp threads D as shown in
figure 4 the said warp threads D passing between the straight warp threads C.
The straight warp threads C hold the woof threads B close to each other in the
direction of the length of the fabric, and impart firmness to the fabric in that
direction, and give an effect of fulness to the woof threads where they appear
between the serpentine warp threads D.
To produce this cloth a loom with two shuttles is used one shuttle introducing
the upper or face woof threads and the other the lower or back woof threads,
two beams are used, one supplying the straight warp and the other the serpentine
warp threads.
The woof threads are sufficiently compressible to permit the introduction, by
means of a needle, of threads E under the loops of the serpentine threads D, and
over the face of the woof threads A; so that by either wholly or partially covering
these woof threads with ornamental threads E thus introduced and parallel
thereto, designs can be produced which not being perceptibly prominent and being
crossed at regular intervals by the loops of the threads D appear as though they
were a component part of the loom woven fabric
Another form of this invention illustrated in Figures 6 and 7 shows a series of
ornamental needle woven threads E' introduced in a loom woven fabric between.
or upon the sides of the loom woven woof threads, and held against the sides by
binding or crossing warp threads.
Figures 8 and 9 show a modification wherein the ornamental threads E' are held
and bound by passing under the intermediate loops of the warp thread, so that
they are not liable to be displaced in the handling or folding or by the creasing or
rolling of the fabric, in such manner as to impair the artistic effect of the design,
as they might otherwise do by rising from the sides of the woof threads and
overlying and covering an undue part of the face of such woof threads.
E, E and E' are colored ornamental threads introduced into the fabric by passing
a needle from the back to the front of the goods at a point where that color is
demanded by the artistic design and passed under alternate pairs of twisted or
serpentine warp threads, so as to lay parallel with the woof threads A, and wholly
or partially cover the woof threads A and being crossed by the serpentine or
twisted threads D at the same regular intervals as the woof threads A present the
appearance of being a part of the loom woven fabric, and by their color and
position close to the sides of the woof thread, produce the same effect as a shaded
or colored part at that point in the woof thread; at the termination of the line
demanded by the design, the thread E is passed by a needle to the back of the
fabric where it may be "fastened off" or led to some other part of the canvas or
fabric where it is required for the design and passed through to the face, and passed
under alternate pairs of warp threads D. As shown in Figures 6 and 7 the
threads E are placed at the side of the woof threads A and are each held by
alternate warp threads D to the side of one woof thread A.
As shown in Figures 8 and 9 the threads E³ are held between two contiguous
woof threads A A and are held against both threads A A by being passed
under every serpentine warp thread D instead of under each alternate warp
thread D.
By combining the three modes of inserting ornamental threads.-with the
special canvass or fabric described, degrees of delicacy of shades are attainable and
the appearance of a loom woven fabric retained with artistic effect not heretofore
accomplished.
Having now described this invention as communicated to me by my foreign
correspondent and the manner in which the same is to be performed I wish it
to be understood that what I claim and desire to protect under the hereinbefore in
part recited Letters Patent is :-
First The field or back ground or canvass as the same is variously termed,
consisting of a fabric having a soft or compressible series of woof threads on the
face crossed by serpentine or binding warp threads and supported by straight or

page_text: central warp threads, and adapted to receive ornamental threads under the
binding warp threads without appreciable prominence thereof, substantially as
shown and described.
Second-The method of embroidering woven fabrics by introducing ornamental
threads under the binding warp threads of the face thereof and parallel with the
woof threads of the face, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
Third As a new manufacture an embroidered fabric having the woof threads
wholly or partially covered by ornamental threads placed under the binding warp
threads that appear in the face and parallel with the woof threads thereof in such
manner as to produce pictured designs thereon.
In witness whereof I the said Alfred Julius Boult have hereunto set my hand
and seal this thirteenth day of September in the year of Our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and eighty two.

page_text: fig. 6.
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