Year: 1898

page_text: I, JEAN CASPAR MEYER, of Rue Sopheika Sousdaloky Podworie, Moscow, Russia,
Hat Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention has reference to the manufacture of hats and other head cover-
ings.
Hats and the like made according to my invention may be made upon a "shape"
or not as desired.
$6
When made
upon a
shape," this may be of tulle, muslin or other suitable
fabric, I place this shape upon a foundation of wires and secure same thereto by
glueing or pasting or otherwise. The shape may be secured upon one or both
sides of the said wires. If it is only upon one side the wires are secured at the edge
and are preferably sewn to the tulle or other shape at several points.
The tulle or other fabric for the shape and the wires will be cut to size accord-
ing to the requirements of the hat to be produced or they may be of greater or
less length and may be shaped upon forms of zinc or other material and by hand.
The wires may be arranged parallel to each other or crosswise according to the
effect to be obtained.
Hats made upon the novel shape just described are lighter and more flexible
than those made upon the old style of shapes.
The new shape is particularly adapted for hats or bonnets in tulle, lace, gauze
and the like; since it is possible to sew upon the improved shape lace or other
trimmings which could not be sewn upon the old style of shape. The body and
the brim may be made separately as hereinafter described.
When it is not desired to make the hats or the like upon a shape they are
preferably formed of a brim and a body and are made in silk, linen, cotton or other
materials such as now employed for hats. The materials used are secured by glue-
ing or otherwise upon a backing of muslin or other fabric or material. They may
be made directly without a lawn, tulle, &c. shape and without a previously made
hat body. The material is glued or otherwise secured upon the fabric or material
on one or both sides.
The brims of hats which are made of material glued upon muslin or other
fabric or material may be made without a binding or may be bound with ribbon,
lace, &c. and generally in the manner in which hat brims are bound.
This new construction of hat or the like however is of particular importance,
because it lends itself to the application of an entirely novel binding which gives
to the hat a finish and strength not attained by any of the old hat bindings.
To apply this binding I proceed as follows:-
The material of which the hat is to be made having been secured upon a backing
of fabric or other material as described is separated from the backing around
the edge of the brim to a suitable distance; the backing (and the material on the
other side, if the brim is faced on both sides with same) are cut to exactly the size
which is to be left at the brim. Then wires are sewn upon the unsecured portion
of the backing. At the edge of brims which have yet to be formed by hand it
is desirable to sew an iron wire of greater or less strength; but at the edge of

page_text: other brims such for example as those of the "Tudor" style or of men's hats it is
better to sew steel wires without iron wires. Upon the part which has been
separated from the edge, a single wire, or two, three or more may be sewn, either
united together or arranged at a slight distance from one another and parallel to
each other. Then the material which was separated from the backing and which
remains of greater length than the bottom of the cut edge is turned over upon the
wires thus sewn and turned beneath the edge of the brim. To finish, perforations
are made between and along the different rows of wires.
There is thus obtained a binding of the same stuff as that of which the hat is
made, without the use of ribbon or lace. This is a particular advantage in the case
of colored brims, it being often impossible to match ribbons and laces with the
material of the hat. Further, the brims may be bound with ribbon, this being
particularly desirable for black satin brims. In this case the ribbon is turned over
upon at least two rows of wire; this also constitutes a new binding.
The body, like the brim, is of material secured upon a backing of muslin or
other material. It is composed of the crown proper and a supporting band there-
for. The crown like the brim is bound with my new binding, that is to say, the
separated material is turned over below its cut backing and generally upon a
wire sewn at the edge; if this wire is not employed the crown gets out of shape
more quickly and the edge is not so neat. The supporting band having been
brought to shape, the crown is sewn or glued upon it.
Thus made the crown is
itself a complete novelty and may be combined with any brim or head dress. I
prefer to make the brims and crown separately, either in the same or different
materials.
The improved method of manufacture lends itself to all changes of fashion and
the hats &c. have a better appearance, their shape being much more correct than
those made according to the old system, which latter have besides the disadvantage
that they can only be made in a very limited number of materials. By my inven-
tion I make the hats and the like not only to match as regards shade of color, but
it will be evident that they can be made of the same stuff as the dress or costume
with which it may be desired to wear them.
J. C. MEWBURN & ELLIS,
55 and 56, Chancery Lane, London, Chartered Patent Agents.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Hats and other Head Coverings.
I, JEAN CASPAR MEYER, of Rue Sopheika Sousdaloky Podworie, Moscow, Russia,
Hat Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement:-
This invention has reference to the manufacture of hats and other head
coverings.
Hats and the like made according to my invention may be made upon a "shap>"
or not as desired.
When made upon a shape, this (as shown in Figures 1 to 3) may be of tulle,
muslin or other suitable fabric. I place the tulle or other fabric t upon a founda-
tion of wires f and secure same thereto by glueing or pasting or otherwise. This
tulle or other fabric may be secured upon one or both sides of the said wires. If
it is only upon one side (as shown in the hats shown in Figures 1 and 2) the
wires f are secured at the edge and are preferably sewn to the tulle or other shape
at several points as indicated at x ..

page_text: I may employ a strengthening ring c of wire in the crown, this being secured in
position by twisting the foundation wires f around said wire c at the crossing points.
This will be clearly understood from the plan Fig. 10, which shows another style
of hat in which two such strengthening wires are employed in the crown, the inner
one c being secured in place as just described.
In the hat shown in Figure 3, the tulle or other fabric is secured upon both
sides of the wire foundation f.
The tulle or other fabric for the shape and the wires, will be cut to size accord-
ing to the requirements of the style of hat to be produced or they may be of greater
or less length and may be shaped upon forms of zinc or other material and by
hand. The wires may be arranged parallel to each other or crosswise according
to the effect to be obtained.
Hats made upon the novel shape herein described are lighter and more flexible
than those made upon the old style of shapes.
The new shape is particularly adapted for open-worked hats or bonnets in tulle,
lace, gauze and other materials; since it is possible to sew upon the improved
shane braid and other trimmings which could not be sewn upon the old style of
shape. The body and the brim may be made separately as hereinafter described.
When it is not desired to make the hats or the like upon a shape they are prefer-
ably formed of a brim p (Figure 4) and a body and are made in silk, linen,
cotton or other materials usually employed for hats. The materials used are
secured by glueing or otherwise upon a backing m of muslin, skin or other fabric
or material. They may be made directly without a shape in lawn, tulle, &c. and
without a previously made hat body. The material is glued or otherwise secured
upon the fabric or material on one or both sides.
Figure 4 shows one style of hat, and Figure 5 shows another style of hat in
which these improvements are incorporated.
The brims of hats which are made of material glued upon muslin or other
fabric or material may be made without a binding (as shown on the left hand
of Figure 4) or may be bound with ribbon, braid, &c. (as shown on the right hand
of Figure 4) and generally in the manner in which hat brims are bound.
The new construction of hat brim however is of particular importance
because it lends itself to the application of an entirely novel binding which gives
to the hat brim a finish and strength not attained by any of the old hat brim
bindings.
To apply this binding I proceed as follows:-
Referring to the enlarged detail view of the brim shown in Figure 6, the
material of which the hat is to be made having been secured upon a backing m
of fabric or other material as described it is detached from the backing around
the edge of the brim to a suitable distance; the backing and the material on the
other side, if the brim is faced on both sides with the same are cut to exactly the
size which is to be left at the brim. The wires f are sewn upon the detached
portion of the backing. At the edge of brims which have yet to be formed by
hand it is desirable to sew an iron wire of greater or less thickness; but at the
edge of other brims such for example as those of the "Tudor" style or of men's
hats it is better to sew steel wires without iron wires. Upon the part which has
been detached from the edge, a single wire, or two, three or more wires may be
sewn, either united together or arranged at a slight distance from one another
and parallel to each other. Then the material which was detached from the back-
ing and which remains of greater length than the bottom of the cut edge is turned
over upon the wires thus sewn, and is turned beneath the edge of the brim. To
finish, stitches are made between and along the different rows of wires.
There is thus obtained a prominent binding of the same material or fabric as
that of which the hat is made, without the use of ribbon or braid. This is a
particular advantage in the case of colored brims, it being often impossible to
match ribbons or braid in the exact shade of the material of the hat. Further, the
brims may be bound with ribbon, this being particularly desirable for black satin

page_text: brims. In this case the ribbon is turned over upon at least two rows of wire (see
Figure 7); this also constitutes a new binding.
The body, like the brim, is of material pasted or secured upon a backing of
muslin, skin or other material. It is composed of the crown proper h and a sup-
porting band therefor. The crown like the brim is bound with my new binding,
that is to say, the detached material is turned down over the underside of its cut
backing and generally upon a wire f sewn at the edge (Figures 4 and 5); if this
wire is not employed the crown gets out of shape more quickly and the edge is
not so neat. The supporting band having been brought to shape, the crown h
is sewn or glued upon it. Thus made, the body is itself a complete novelty and
may be combined with any brim or head gear or head dress. I prefer to make
the brims and bodies separately, either in the same or different materials.
Figure 8 illustrates a modified form of hat of straw or material having its
crown and its brim p connected by pasting, or preferably by stitching as shown,
to the band b.
In the case of hats which are made upon shapes, the wires that form the
foundation of the hat shape may be employed alone without any tulle or other
fabric.
A hat of this kind is illustrated in vertical section in Figure 9, and in plan in
Figure 10. In this arrangement radiating wires a are employed crossing at the
crown, each wire a being twisted round a strengthening ring e, of wire then pass-
ing over an outer wire ring e, then downwards round other suitably disposed
wires d, being finally secured to the brim wire l. At the various crossing points
the wires are secured by stitching or other means. In this manner a support
is obtained upon which the wires can be bent and shaped as desired for any
particular style.
The improved method of manufacture lends itself to all changes of fashion,
and the hats &c. have a better appearance, their shape being much more correct
than those made according to the old system, which latter have besides the dis-
advantage that they can only be made in very limited number of materials. By
my invention I make the hats and the like not only to match as regards shade of
color, but I can also make them of the same stuff as the dress or costume with which
it may be desired to wear them.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is
1. In the manufacture of hats and other head coverings, a shape or foundation
constructed of wire or wires, substantially as described.
2. In the manufacture of hats and other head coverings, a hat or shape com-
posed of two thicknesses of tulle, muslin or other fabric, secured by glueing or
pasting to an intermediate foundation of wire or wires, substantially as described.
3. In the manufacture of hats and other head coverings, an edge binding, sub-
stantially as described more particularly with reference to Figures 4, 6 and 7 of
the accompanying drawings.
4. A. body for a hat or other head covering made substantially as hereinbefore
described more particularly with reference to Figures 4, 5 and 8.
5. In the manufacture of hats and other head coverings a shane or foundation
made substantially as described with reference to Figure 9 of the accompanying
drawings.
J. C. MEWBURN & ELLIS,
55 and 56, Chancery Lane, London, Chartered Patent Agents.