IM- PROVEMENTS IN EMBROIDERING MACHINES
Year: 1878

page_text: -LETTERS PATENT to Edward Thomas Hughes, of the Firm of Hughes and
Son, Patent Agents, 123, Chancery Lane, London, for the Invention of "IM-
PROVEMENTS IN EMBROIDERING MACHINES." A communication from abroad
by Nicolas Dominique, of 1, Boulevard Saint Denis, Paris.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Edward Thomas Hughes at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 7th October 1878.
EDWARD THOMAS HUGHES, of the Firm of Hughes and Son, Patent Agents,
123, Chancery Lane, London. "IMPROVEMENTS IN EMBROIDERING MACHINES.".
A communication from abroad by Nicolas Dominique, of 1, Boulevard Saint Denis,
Paris.
In embroidering machines hitherto constructed the workwoman is obliged con-
stantly to turn the material being sewn so as to present the lines of the design for
execution before the chain stitch made by the machine.
According to the present Invention the workwoman is enabled easily by the aid
of a handle moved by the right hand to cause the chain stitch of the machine to
take variable directions which permits of its following all the lines of any pattern
whatever without turning the stuff.
In this machine the advance of the stuff is made at pleasure automatically in
the imprinted direction by the right hand whereby the workwoman can execute
the designs with much more regularity, her left hand at the same time resting at
liberty.
The improved arrangement consists of two distinct operations, the formation
of the chain stitch and the drawing of the stuff in various directions, according to
the pattern.
The first operation requires two distinct apparatuses

page_text: This apparatus consists of a cast-iron frame carrying the various parts of the
machine and fixed by screws or studs on a wrought plate or cast-iron table which is
secured at its circumference upon an ordinary table of wood or other material pro-
vided with a fly wheel and pedal for working the machine.
The foot of the frame should be formed with projecting joggles or pieces, which,
fitted into corresponding holes of the table, give great steadiness to the machine.
Mounted in plummer blocks on the top of the frame is the horizontal main
shaft at the rear end of which is the hand wheel and a grooved pulley which is
acted upon by a cord in combination with a system of fast and loose pullies worked
by the foot.
Between the hand wheel and the grooved pulley is an eccentric (hereafter
described) cut on the shaft, and on the front end of the latter is attached an
eccentric pulley which turns in a bridle, yoke, or frame, formed on its lower side
with a rod or spindle reciprocating vertically in guides on the front of the machine;
this rod or spindle is joined to the needle carrier or spindle by a coupling passing
round shoulders on the joining ends of the rods or spindles and tightened thereto
by a set screw in such a manner that whilst coupling the rods or spindles the needle
carrier or spindle is free to rotate.
The needle carrier or spindle receives at its lower end the needle or embroidery
hook designed to cause the stitch.
To maintain the stuff during the pricking and return of the needle I make use of
a pressure barrel composed of a tube of iron or copper and fitted with easy friction
on the needle rod or carrier; this barrel terminates above in a large shoulder or
collar secured by a set screw, and at the bottom is enlarged and grooved for the
passage of the needle and for receiving a busb, the square head of which is fitted
between the two branches formed by the grooving of the barrel, the whole being
solidly fixed by a nut screwed on to the barrel and pressed against the base of the
same; this nut is hollowed in the form of a cup to receive the overflow of oil and
prevent it from staining the stuff; a ring of felt should also be placed upon the
barrel to wipe the needle. The barrel serves as a pivot during the changes of direc-
tion of the whole embroidering apparatus.
To work the advance of the material after each stitch made a special kind of
wheel click is employed, composed as follows:-A tube provided at its top with a
shoulder is fitted with easy friction on the pressure barrel, leaving sufficient play
for the movement of the latter; the wheel click is jointed in a forked socket at the
lower end of this tube and its foot catching on the stuff is driven away backwards
by the bush on the barrel acting against an inclined plane formed on a plate attached
to the wheel click, which being shot backwards during the rising of the barrel is
raised a little afterwards and brought back to its first position when the needle
descends; or the inclined plane may be placed on the wheel click itself and the
regulation of its advance effected by the bush on the barrel.
The pressure barrel and the wheel click are raised automatically at the desired
time by two cams upon the main shaft; these cams act upon two square rods sliding
vertically in mortises or grooves in the frame and carrying at their upper ends
rollers; horizontal arms project forwards from these rods and terminate in forks
embracing the shoulders of the pressure barrel and tube respectively. The cams
acting upon the rollers raise in consequence the shoulders and with them the pres-
sure barrel and entire whoel click, at the same time permitting rotation on their

page_text: axes; they are returned to their normal position by springs acting on the lower
ends of the sliding rods.
2. APPARATUS FOR THE DISTRIBUTION OF THE THREAD.
This apparatus is composed of a cast-iron frame or support fixed beneath the table
and formed in front with two sockets or bearings in which turns vertically a tube
of iron or copper; this tube is maintained by a washer fastened on the tube and
resting on the lower bearing; at the lower end of the tube is fixed a projecting
bracket or support at the outer end of which is screwed a rod carrying the thread
bobbin; to ensure an equal tension on the latter the shoulder of its rod or spindle,
where it is fixed to the support, is conical and takes into the hole of the bobbin;
into the other end of the bobbin takes a ring, also conical, the pressure of which is
regulated by a spiral spring and two screwed nuts upon the rod. On the top
of the upper socket or bearing is a small apparatus designed to hold the thread
of the bobbin during the descent of the embroidering needle and consisting of
a bracket or support adjusted by a set screw on the tube. A flexible rod
fixed by a screw in the end of a lever oscillating in a mortise formed in the bracket
or support is alternately raised by a rod passing downwards through the tube and
acted upon by a lever in such a manner that the motion of the rod is rendered
curvilinear by means of a small guide. The thread of the bobbin passes through the
tube and, guided by a notch formed at the end of the oscillating lever, traverses a
hole pierced at the extremity of the small guide, then passing through the small
ring which terminates the vibrating rod is by virtue of the curvilinear movement of
this rod conducted from right to left of the needle and seized thereby. The other
end of the lever for raising the rod is acted upon by the eccentric cut on the main
shaft at its back end (as before mentioned).
To cuable the embroidering to follow the various directions without turning the
material by hand there is adapted to the machine the apparatus of rotation, the
principle of which is that the distribution apparatus of the thread should evidently
turn at the same time as the embroidering apparatus and with the same speed, a
result which is obtained by coupling the driving mechanism. A horizontal shaft
mounted in sockets or bearings in the frame is moved by a handle and provided at
its front end with a bevil wheel which gears into a similar wheel formed with a
long socket sliding on the tube of the wheel click, the entire embroidering appa-
ratus being maintained and guided by this wheel and the sockets or bearings of the
tube.
The needle with its hook, the pressure barrel with its bush, and the wheel click
to keep constantly their same respective positions, should turn altogether in sliding
vertically to different directions.
This result is obtained by means of a screw which, fixed in the needle rod or
carrier, projects through slots in the concentric tubes so that whilst operating the
latter simultaneously during a movement of rotation they can move independently
during their vertical movements.
By this arrangement it will be understood that it is easy to continually place
the needle in the direction of the embroidering line by turning the handle at the
end of the shaft to the right or left with more or less rapidity, according to the
direction and magnitude of the curves, this movement of the shaft is transferred
most exactly to the horizontal shaft of the distributor by means of bevil gear in
combination with an upright shaft.

page_text: arrangement, Figure 1, or by means of guides C¹, C², cast on or borne by the frame
(Fig. 4); this last system has the advantage of keeping the bridle frame latérally.
In the first arrangement (Fig. 1) the bridle frame d is maintained at the back by
a flange f cast on the back of the eccentric E, and on its. face by a cover plate f
maintained by a screw. At its lower part the bridle frame d is continued by a
short stem terminated by a shoulder g.
A stem or needle carrier D, terminating above in a shoulder g¹ similar to g is
joined to the bridle frame d by means of a sleeve h, which embraces the two shoulders
9, 9, and effects their union without preventing the movement of rotation of the
stem D on its axis. This same sleeve is supplied with a foot sufficiently large,
which prevents its turning, or with a tongue which slides along the frame in a
groove. The stem D of suitable length receives at its lower part the needle or
embroidering hook designed to make the stitch. This needle is fixed by screw in
the ordinary manner.
A hook g² is fitted by means of a socket to the bottom of the stem D, and is
there fixed by a set screw. For maintaining the stuff during the pricking and
return of the hook I use a pressure barrel F (shewn to a large scale, Figures 6, 7,
8, and 9). This barrel F is composed of a tube h' of iron or copper, fitted with
easy friction on the stem D. This tube h¹, terminated at the top in a large
shoulder h², maintained by a screw thread and pin for preventing it from being
unscrewed. At its lower part it is widened and hollowed for the passage of the
hook g. The tube E receives at the bottom of its hollowing a button h³, traversed
and kept by the pressure barrel h, whereof the square head is fitted between the
two branches formed by the hollowing of the tube F. Finally the whole is fixed
solidly by the nut h³, which is screwed on the barrel h, and pinched against the
bottom of the tube F. This nut is hollowed in the form of a cup for receiving the
excess of grease proceeding from the oil, and thereby avoiding the staining of
the stuffs. For the same object there can be placed, if there is space, a layer of felt
at the top of the barrel h for wiping the needle. This penetrates freely through
the barrel h pierced with a central hole sufficient for the passage of the hook d
and of the embroidering thread. The barrel h* serves also as a pivot during the
change of directions of the entire embroidering apparatus. For effecting the advance
of the stuff after each puncture made I use a particular system of wheel click G
composed as follows:-A tube i furnished at the top with a shoulder h similar to
that of the tube F is fitted with easy friction on the tube F, leaving between its
lower end and the enlarged part of the tube F the necessary play for the movement
of the pressure barrel. The wheel click is jointed at x to a forked socket or
bracket fitted to the bottom of the tube i, and is there pinched by means of a
screw. The wheel click pressing on the stuff is driven away backwards by the
button or buffer h during the rising of the barrel ht. For this purpose the button
or buffer h³ rests against an inclined plane formed at the bottom of a plate or arm i³,
also jointed in x, and rendered solid with the wheel click by means of a screw is
The length of the puncture should be easily regulated by means of this plate i³,
which in turning round can take more or less pull on the wheel click i. A groove
cut in the plate permits the movement of the screw, which there pinches it after
regulation is effected.
23
The wheel click ', driven away backwards by the button or buffer h³ during the
rising of the tube F, is slightly raised afterwards and brought to its first position by
the hook g², which acts when the needle descends upon the inclined plane formed
on the back of the wheel click i¹.
The arrangement indicated in Figures 10 and 11 permits of effecting the advance
of the stuff and the regulation of the puncture with more simple parts.
In this apparatus the plate of regulation and advance is suppressed and the
inclined plane cut out in the wheel click itself; the regulation of the puncture is
then effected by means of the button or buffer h³, which furnished with a groove
can make more or less projection beyond the barrel F, and consequently remove
more or less the wheel click from the said barrel. This wheel click can be brought

page_text: to its first position either by means of the hook g³, or by means of a flat spring
fitted on a pin g³ located in the socket . This spring causes pressure against a
"pin i fixed in the wheel click.
The barrel of maintenance F and the wheel click G are raised automatically at
the desired time by two cams j',, cut on the shaft of command G¹.
The forms of these cams, their projection on the shaft, and their position in
relation to that of the principal eccentric E are shown to a larger scale in the diagram
Fig. 16. These cams j', j³, act on two stems 73, j, sliding vertically in mortises
cut on the right and left of the frame A, and covered by plates of iron screwed to
the latter. The stems ³, j', carry at their upper extremities friction rollers, and
are bent over in such a manner as to present these rollers respectively on the same
axis of the machine, that is to say, on that of the shaft of comniand G¹.
From thesc stems ³, j, project at right angles two levers terminated by forks
j, jo, whereof one jo embraces the upper shoulder 2 of the tube F, and the other jo
the shoulder h¹ of the tube i.
These forked levers j³, jo, acted on by the cams j¹, j³, raise thus the shoulders
h³, h, and consequently the pressure barrel and the whole of the wheel click, at the
same time permitting their rotation on their axis. They are brought again automa-
tically to their position by the springs 1, 2, fixed under the arm of the frame, and
jointed by means of pins to the bottom of the stems 73 44
P
A support H in cast iron is fixed to the table B for greater precission, and is fur-
nished with joggles or projections let into the table B, or it may be fitted between
two joggles or projections cast on the bottom of the plate B.
On the front of the machine the support H carries two sockets k¹, k², in which
turns with easy friction a tube ³ of iron or copper.
This tube is maintained by a ring or washer / pinned on the tube and placed
on the socket . Underneath the socket at the lower extremity of the tube k³
is fixed by set screw or pin a short support carrying the bobbin. The support k
is of a square shape, and bent, as shewn, to receive by pin a screwed stem, which
receives the bobbin 7 with its thread. For ensuring to the thread a tension always
equal the shoulder of the stem is conical and engages in the hole of the bobbin.
At the other end of this hole is inserted a ring, also conical, whereof the pressure is
regulated at pleasure by the spiral spring, and the screwed nuts on the stem kº.
On the top of the bracket or socket k' is carried a small special apparatus (repre-
sented to large scale in Figs. 12, 13, and 14), designed for seizing the thread of
the bobbin k by the embroidering hook during its descent. For that purpose a
small bracket or support is fitted by a socket with screw or pin on the tube k³,
A flexible stem is fixed with a screw in a lever oscillating in a mortise formed
in the bracket or support l; the lever is raised alternately by a small stem,
which traverses the tube for its entire length, and acts under the lever ; this
movement of the lever gives to the stem an oscillation which is rendered cur-
vilinear by means of the short guide (Fig. 14). The thread of the bobbin k
passes through the tube ³, and guided by a notch formed at the end of the lever l³
traverses a hole pierced at the end of the guide 13, then passing by the small ring
which terminates the oscillating stem is (in consequence of the curvilinear move-
ment of this ring) conducted to the right or left of the embroidering needle and
seized by the hook. A spiral spring attached at the back of the lever 12 brings
it back to its normal position. The pins which fix the different pieces to the tube ³
ought not to traverse the hole of the latter, but pass through at the side, so as not
to obstruct the passage of the steink and of the thread. The stem k, whereof the
bottom extends below the tubo k³, is raised at its point by a horizontal lever L
jointed at x¹ in a forked bracket f¹ projecting downwards from the casting H to a

page_text: suitable distance. The other end of the lever L is jointed in with the head of the
vertical rod L³, whereof the upper end is fitted on the eccentric e cut on the shaft G².
The stem distributing the thread should evidently be raised during the descent
of the embroidering needle, and the setting of the eccentric e should therefore be
made in the same way as that of the eccentric E, which the study of the movements
of the machine will easily determine.
3RD. APPARATUS OF ROTATION.
For executing any design in embroidering the stitch should follow the direction
of the lines of the design through all their bends.
For producing this effect without turning by hand the stuff to be embroidered,
there is adapted to this machine the apparatus of rotation which requires for the
embroidering parts the novel arrangements before described.
In order that the thread should be always presented to the embroidering needle
before the hook, the distributor apparatus of the thread ought evidently to turn in
the same time as the embroidering apparatus, and with the same speed. This result
is obtained by coupling the two horizontal shafts which actuate the two apparatuses
by a vertical shaft which renders the movements of the horizontal shafts simultaneous
by means of equal gearing.
The horizontal shaft of command of the rotation G is moved by means of the
handle m, and is mounted in sockets or bearings formed in the frame. It receives
in front a bevilled pinion m¹ which engages with a similar pinion m³ provided with
a long socket with two collars which turn in the brackets p³, pt, of the frame.
Through this pinion m² slides with easy friction the tube i before described of the
wheel click G. All the embroidering apparatus is also maintained and guided by
the pinion m² and the brackets p³, p*.
The needle and its hook, the pressure barrel F with its button or buffer h³,
and the wheel click G in front to keep constantly the same relative positions should
turn altogether whilst sliding vertically in different ways.
This result is obtained by the aid of the screw ' which, fixed in the stem needle
carrier D, follows the vertical movement and slides in a groove v formed in the three
concentric tubes m², i, and h³, the pinion m³ pushing on the screw v¹ draws all the
pieces in its movement of rotation, whilst in their vertical movements the groove v³
allows of their moving independently of one another.
By the above description it will be seen that it is easy to place constantly the
stitch in the direction of the line to be embroidered by turning the handle m either
to the right or left with more or less speed according to the directions and lengths
of the curves.
This movement of the handle m will be transmitted very exactly
to the horizontal shaft G³ by the vertical shaft G* and the equal pairs of pinions m³
and m, m³ and me; finally the shaft G³ will communicate its movement to the
tube which carries the distributor apparatus of the thread by means of the equal
pinions m and m³. An opening formed on the side of the frame and closed by the
iron plate q allows the mounting of the shafts G and G. Lastly, a casing in cast or
plate iron protects the principal parts from dust and foreign bodies and furnishes
a cover for the brackets p³, p*; it can also be applied to the slides formed in the
guides C, C, and to maintain the bridle frame d.
With the exception of the pinions, which for giving more smoothness to the
transmission can be made in brass, and of the frames and supports A, B, and H,
which are of cast iron, all the other pieces can be made in steel or iron and welded
together afterwards.
Figure 17, Sheet 1, illlustrates a modified arrangement that may be employed in
certain cases to replace the gearing of cominand before described, and which con-
sists in a kind of drill formed by a small cord c* which is wound upon the tube d*
carrying the thread, and causes the 'said tube to turn. To this effect some
spiral grooves are formed on the tube dx and receive. one or more turns of
the cord ex, one end of which is attached to a spiral spring * held .by a

page_text: hook g* or otherwise to the under side of the table, whilst its other end passes
round a pulley p* and is attached to the lower end of a rod t* which receives a
vertical reciprocating motion either by means of a circular eccentric h* fixed on the
shaft of command a* or by any other suitable means. This rod t may be guided
near its lower end in a socket i*. If the rod and its eccentric ring are in one piece a
side play is necessary in the sockets ix to allow for the vibration produced by the
eccentric. The stroke of this rod tx should be sufficient for producing a complete
turn of the tube d* carrying the thread which receives at its upper end a
distributor j*. As seen by the Drawing the bobbin b* would remain fixed instead
of turning with the tube d*.
For causing the point of the chain stitch to keep in the direction of the design,
a circular thumb projection m* milled on its edge, and which can be easily turned by
the hand, draws the embroidering organs by means of the screw v* or otherwise.
During the descent of the needle the distributor j* making a turn upon itself under
the action of the cord cx, the latter being drawn either by the rod t* or by the
spring winds the thread round about the needle and a ring is drawn away by
the hook. The cord ex may be of hemp, leather, india-rubber, gut, metal, chain, or
cord covered with metal thread.
By the great simplicity in directing the point which characterises this machine
all apprenticeship is suppressed.
Sheet 2 of the Drawings illustrates a modified arrangement of machine for pre-
venting the thread from untwisting, and maintaining it always in the position where
it has been left by the last point made upon the stuff, also for preventing the thread
from escaping the hook at the moment of the formation of the ring.
Fig. 1 is a side elevation of the machine comprising these improvements.
Figures 2 and 3 represent, to an enlarged scale, the click and spring work employed
for preventing the thread from untwisting. Fig. 4 shows the form of hook which
I use for preventing the thread from escaping, and which consists simply of a hook c
with band 6 lengthened and curved in the form of a ring. The branch b removed
from the stemt to open the passage for the thread is closed when the thread is
taken, and the hook traverses the hole d of suitable diameter in the plate P. This
hole is enlarged underneath for permitting the entrance of the hook. The thread is
thus confined at the same moment as the formation of the ring, and the point can
never fail.
The use of this improved hook allows of suppressing the tube or guide barrel of
the hook as well as its cam, as before described in Figs. 1 to 16.
For preventing the thread from untwisting by the return of the tube f carrying
the thread, I mount on this tube a ratchet wheel with any number of teeth
sufficiently small, with which engages a ratchet catch K held against the teeth by a
spring r, and which, as will be understood, forces the cord h of the drill to slide
over on the return of the tube f, carrying the thread without dragging it in its
movement. In Fig. 5 is seen an arrangement of pinion and rack which may be
employed if desired in lieu of the cord to turn the tube fon which is fixed the
pinion i.
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of my said
Invention, and the manner in which the same is or may be used or carried into
effect, I would observe in conclusion that what I consider novel and original and
therefore claim as the Invention secured to me by the herein-before in part recited
Letters Patent is,―
1. The command of the embroidering orgaus, substantially as herein-before
described, and illustrated by Figures 1 to 16 on Sheet 1 of the accompanying
Drawings.
2. The special disposition of embroidering apparatus, the particular arrangement
of its organs in view of their movement of rotation in combination with their
attachment with the command, in view of their vertical movements producing easy
regulation of the stitch, substantially as herein-before described, and illustrated by
Figures 1 to 10 on Sheet 1 of the accompanying Drawings.

page_text: 3. The special disposition of distributor apparatus for the thread, and its attach-
ment with the command, substantially as herein-before described, and illustrated
by Figures 1 to 16 on Sheet 1 of the accompanying Drawings.
4. The movements conjointly of rotation of the apparatuses and their command
by the hand, substantially as herein-before described, and illustrated by Figures 1
to 16 on Sheet 1 of the accompanying Drawings.
5. General construction and arrangement of embroidering machine, substan-
tially as and for the purposes herein-before described, and illustrated by Figures 1
to 16 on Sheet 1 of the accompanying Drawings.
6. The special arrangement of embroidering machine, substantially as and for the
purposes herein-before described, and illustrated by Figure 17 on Sheet 1 of the
accompanying Drawings.
7. The special arrangement of embroidering machine, substantially as and for the
purposes herein-before described, and illustrated by Figures 1 to five on Sheet 2 of
accompanying Drawings.
In witness whereof, I, the said Edward Thomas Hughes, bave hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Seventh day of April, 1879.
T