Improvements in the Manufacture of Coloured Figured Fabrics.
Year: 1895

page_text: Date of Applicati n, 23rd Mar., 1895
Complete Specification Left, 23rd Dec., 1895-Accepted, 1st Feb.,
1896
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Coloured Figured Fabrics.
We, JOHN ROBERT BARLOW, of Edgeworth, near Bolton, in the County of
Lancaster, Cotton Spinner and Manufacturer and HENRY DUXBURY, of
9 Arkwright Street, Bolton aforesaid, Mill Manager, do hereby declare the nature
of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of coloured figured
fabrics suitable for quilts, toilet covers and other similar goods and consists in the
production of a novel lace effect.
In carrying out our improvements we may use a loom of ordinary construction
with two warp. beams and one shuttle the figuring warp being controlled by a
jacquard and the ground warp by healds.
The ground warp may be white or self coloured and the figure warp may be
coloured with a white or a different coloured thread at suitable intervals or the
figure warp may be of more than two colours.
In weaving a cloth with a white ground in a loom with a single Jacquard
machine the jacquard with part of the figure warp inay be raised each pick to form
the figure or may remain up any number of picks during which the ground of the
fabric is being woven underneath the figure formed by the Jacquard warp, any
suitable ground such as a plain, double plain, twill or satin being woven by the
warp in the healds; the jacquard then changes and lets down all the figure warp
that was up and lifts all the figure warp that was down during the previous pick ;
the healds simultaneously shed and in the case of a plain ground lift one end up and
leave one end down all across the warp and a binding pick of weft is put in this
shed which pick passes above all the figure warp on the face of the cloth and
below the figure warp on the back of the cloth. The jacquard again raises that
part of the colour warp required for figure the ground continues to be woven
until the jacquard again changes when a fresh binding pick of weft is put in and
the operations are continued as described.
If it were desired to change colours or material of the binding picks or any of
them a pick and pick loom or a loom with a drop box at one side only and two or
more shuttles would be required.
Dated this 22nd day of March 1895
H. B. BARLOW & GILLETT,
Agents for Applicants.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Coloured Figured Fabrics.
We, JOHN ROBERT BARLOW, of Edgeworth', near Bolton in the County of
Lancaster, Cotton Spinner and Manufacturer and HENRY DUXBURY, of
9 Arkwright Street, Bolton aforesaid, Mill Manager, do hereby declare the nature
of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of coloured figured

page_text: fabrics suitable for quilts, toilet covers and other similar goods and consists in the
production of a novel lace effect.
In carrying out our improvements we may use a loom of ordinary construction
with two warp beams and one shuttle the figuring warp being controlled by a
jacquard and the ground warp by healds.
The ground warp may be white or self coloured and the figure warp may be
coloured with a white or a different coloured thread at suitable intervals or the
figure warp may be of more than two colours.
In weaving a cloth with a white ground in a loom with a single Jacquard
machine the jacquard with part of the figure warp may be raised each pick to
form the figure or may remain up any number of picks during which the ground
of the fabric is being woven underneath the figure formed by the Jacquard warp,
any suitable ground such as a plain, double plain, twill or satin being woven by
the warp in the healds; the jacquard then changes and lets down all the figure
warp that was up and lifts all the figure warp that was down during the previous
pick the healds simultaneously shed and in the case of a plain ground lift one
end up and leave one end down all across the warp and a binding pick of weft
is put in this shed which pick passes above all the figure warp on the face of
the cloth and below the figure warp on the back of the cloth. The jacquard
again raises that part of the colour warp required for figure the ground continues
to be woven until the jacquard again changes when a fresh binding pick of weft
is put in and the operations are continued as described.
And in order that our invention may be fully understood and readily carried into
effect we will describe the accompanying sheet of drawings reference being had to
the figures and letters marked thereon.
Fig. 1 is a diagram showing the shedding of the warps and Fig. 2 is a diagram
showing how the ends are drawn through the dents in the reed.
In the example illustrated by the diagrams there are alternately four ends of
figure warp a and then one end 6 of a different colour in the jacquard, the move-
ments of the Jacquard engine being governed to produce the desired pattern; the
ground for the fabric is of white or coloured yarn drawn into healds c c and d d to
produce in this case a double plain ground. In each of four dents e of the reed are
drawn in one end of the figure warp a and in every fifth dent is drawn in one end
of a different colour four ends of figure warp a lying between each pair of
threads. The ground warp is drawn into the healds as usual.
The diagram Fig. 1 illustrates the shedding which in this case is seven to the
round; after every six picks of weft a binding pick is put in, this weft thread
passing over all the figure warp a and b which at that time is on the face of the
fabric and under all the figure warp that is down so as to bind the figure warp to
the ground.
Any desired number of ends a of figure warp may be arranged between the ends b
which are of different coloured yarn and each end may be composed of a single
thread or any suitable number of threads and the number of picks of weft between
the binding picks may be varied as required in order to produce different patterns.
If it were desired to change colours or material of the binding picks or any of
them a pick and pick loom or a loom with a drop box at one side only and two or
more shuttles would be required. .
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what we
claim is :-
:-
1. The herein described improvements in the manufacture of coloured figured
fabrics which improvements consist essentially in interweaving with the figure warp
an end or ends of a different colour or colours at suitable intervals in order to
produce a lace effect on the fabric.
2. A fabric having a lace appearance or effect produced by interweaving with

page_text: the figure warp an end or ends of a different colour or colours at suitable intervals.
substantially as herein set forth.
Dated this 21st day of December 1895.
H. B. BARLOW & GILLETT,
17 St. Ann's Square, Manchester, Agents for Applicants.