IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES, AND IN THE MEANS FOR HEATING THE THREAD USED IN THE SAME
Year: 1868

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Robert Lake, of the "International
Patent Office," No. 8, Southampton Buildings, Chancery Lane,
in the County of Middlesex, Consulting Engineer, for the Inven-
tion of "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES, AND IN THE MEANS FOR
HEATING THE THREAD USED IN THE SAME." A communication from
abroad by Daniel Mills, of the City and State of New York, United
States of America, Machinist.
Sealed the 27th November 1868, and dated the 29th July 1868.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Robert Lake
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on
the 29th July 1868.
I, WILLIAM ROBERT LAKE, of the "International Patent Office,"
No. 8, Southampton Buildings, Chancery Lane, in the County of
Middlesex, Consulting Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of the
said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES, AND IN THE MRANB
FOR HEATING THE THREAD USED IN THE SAME," a communication, to be as
follows:-
My improvements relate to sewing machines of that class which are
intended particularly for the manufacture of boots and shoes, and are

page_text: adapted not only to the manufacture of turned work but to the sewing
on of the welts and soles, the operation of sewing being effected by the
combined action of a barbed or crochet needle and awl, both working
concentrically within the radius of a circle.
The said improvements consist partly in the arrangement of a con-
tinuous shaft in combination with the several discs which produce the
motion of the crochet needle, the awl, and the various other parts con-
stituting the sewing mechanism in such a manner that an independent
motion can be given both to the needle and to the awl, the discs being
adjustable on the shaft, each independent of the others, so that a correct
motion of the various parts of the sewing mechanism in relation to each
other is insured. Also in the arrangement of an independent oscillating
needle stock and an independent oscillating awl stock in combination
with lever segments and toothed quadrants, or other suitable mechanism
in such a manner that the motion of the needle is rendered independent
of the awl, and either of these instruments can be made to "dwell" or
remain stationary at certain stages of its motion as the nature of the
work may require. Further, in the arrangement of an oscillating lever
forming the bearing for the pivot of the needle stock in combination with
a lever segment and toothed quadrant on the said needle stock in such a
manner that by the action of the oscillating lever a motion away from
the stationary axis of the awl stock is imparted to the needle stock and
needle without throwing the toothed quadrant out of gear with the lever
segment. Also in the arrangement of a locking lever in combination with
the oscillating lever which carries the needle stock in such a manner that
the said oscillating lever is firmly retained in position while the needle
passes through the work. Further in the arrangement of a thread carrier,
which receives a vibrating and a transversely sliding motion in such a
manner that by the said thread carrier the thread is looped round the hook
of the needle without fail, andwith perfect regularity. Also in the arrange-
ment of a barb coverer in combination with the needle and awl stock
in such a manner that by the action of the said barb coverer the barb of
the needle is covered at the proper intervals, thereby preventing the
same from catching in the loops on its return strokes. Also in the
arrangement of a loop guide in combination with the feeder and with
the oscillating needle in such a manner that by the action of the said
loop guide each loop is acted upon at the proper moment, and held in
position to allow the needle to pass through it without fail. Further in

page_text: the arrangement of a spiral spring and stop working on the periphery of
the awl shield, and secured to the oscillating awl stock in such a manner
that the said awl shield is held by the action of the spring close up to
the material to be pierced in the position to support the awl, and is only
withdrawn for a short time against the action of the spring to make
room for the thread carrier. Also in arranging the needle and the needle
shield in such relation to each other that when the needle is in its onter
position to draw the loop tight, its hook or barb is entirely inside the
shield, thereby holding the needle steady, and preventing the loop from
getting out of the barb. Further in the arrangement of a rising and
falling lever and of a transversely oscillating lever in combination with
the feeder in such a manner that a sure and reliable feed for the work
to be sewed is obtained. Also in the arrangement of an adjustable gauge
in combination with the sewing mechanism in such a manner that the
position of the work in relation to the awl and needle can be regulated
according to the nature of the work to be sewed. Further in the arrange-
ment of a stop motion in combination with the driving shaft and with
the sewing mechanism in such a manner that the machine will always
be stopped when the needle and awl are out of the work, and thereby the
removal and introduction of the work are materially facilitated. Also im
the arrangement of a self-adjusting table, moving up or down in a
vertical direction, and supported by a spring, which presses it up towards
the sewing mechanism in such a manner that by the spring the work is
kept up against the gauge, while the table adjusts itself according to the
sinuosities of the work to be sewed. Further in the arrangement of a
treadle and spring catch in combination with the self-adjusting table and
with the sewing mechanism in such a manner that the operator is enabled
to depress the table by the action of the foot, leaving both his hands
free to guide the work. Also in a tube situated in the lower part of the
frame, and exposed to the action of a flame for the purpose of heating
A
of the wax thread as the same passes to the sewing mechanism.
column made of cast iron or other suitable material of convenient height
for the operator supports a frame which forms the bearings for the
working parts of the sewing mechanism. On the driving shaft are
mounted four discs, two of which are secured directly to the shaft, while
the other two discs are fastened to the first discs by set screws or other
means in such a manner that the various discs can be adjusted in
relation to each other as may be required. One of the discs is provided
with two cams on its outside face, one controlling one of the motions of

page_text: the thread carrier and the other giving motion to the lever of the locking
apparatus. On the inside face there is a cam groove, which gives motion
to the oscillating lever. The disc which may be termed the main disc
is provided with two cam grooves, one of which controls the motions of
the needle, while the other assists in controling the motions of the
thread carrier; another of the four discs controls the motion of the awl,
and the other disc the motions of the feeder.
:
The needle stock consists of a quadrant from whose centre projects a
pivot which has its bearing in a lever, and the said pivot is by preference
made solid with the needle stock, so that these two parts are not liable
to become disconnected. The oscillating lever is suspended from a rod
which extends across the upper portion of the frame, and to the side of
the said lever is attached a roller stud, which works into a cam groove
in the disc which carries the cam for operating the said lever. This
cam groove is so shaped that by its action the lever together with the
needle stock are made to swing out away from the stationary centre of
the axis of the awl stock at certain intervals, and the said lever is guided
in its oscillating motion by a slotted bracket, through which the Game
passes, and which is secured to the frame in close proximity to the
needle stock. When the lever is at the inner end of its stroke it is
locked by a pin projecting therefrom and catching in the slotted lever,
which swings on a stud projecting from the slotted bracket, and which at
the proper moment is pressed against the oscillating lever by the cam on
the side of the disc. The quadrant, which forms the principal portion
of the needle stock, is provided with cogs on its circumference, and
these cogs take into corresponding cogs on the edge of a lever
segment, which is also suspended from the rod supporting the oscillating
lever, but situated on the opposite side of the main disc. From the side
of the lever segment a roller stud projects into a cam groove in the
side of the main disc. This cam groove is so shaped and situated in
relation to the cam groove in the other disc above mentioned that the
lever segment will assume an oscillating motion, which coincides at
certain times with the motion of the oscillating lever, but at other times
the said lever segment moves while the lever remains stationary. The
object of this arrangement is to produce the required motion of the
needle. The said needle is a hook or crochet needle, and it is curved to
form a segment of a circle concentric with the centre of motion of the
needle stock; it is secured to the needle stock or quadrant by a clamp

page_text: or by other suitable means, and it is strengthened in its position by a
shield, which embraces the needle, and is attached to a plate situated on
the side of the quadrant, and turning independently thereof on its pivot.
This needle shield serves to support the needle as the same enters and
leaves the work. The awl is secured to the awl stock by a clamp, and
the said awl stock is similar in construction to the needle stock; it
consists of a quadrant, from which extends a pivot, which has its bearing
in a bracket; this bracket is firmly secured to the main frame by two
screws, and the awl stock receives an oscillating motion, but no motion
toward and from the centre of the driving shaft. To the awl stock is
secured a barb coverer, which serves to cover the barb of the needle at
proper intervals, so as to prevent the catching of the same at its
return strokes in the loops previously formed and not yet drawn tight.
The oscillating motion of the awl stock is produced by a lever segment,
which is suspended from the rod of the oscillating lever, and provided
with a roller stud that works in a groove in the disc which controlls the
awl. Cogs on the edge of the lever segment take into corresponding
cogs on the periphery of the awl stock. To this quadrant is attached a
plate, which carries the awl and shield, and which oscillates freely on
the pivot of the awl stock. A spring, which is connected at one end to
the main frame and at the opposite end to the plate, has a tendency to
keep the awl shield close to the edge of the work, but when the awl
stock turns back a pin projecting from the said awl stock catches
against a shoulder of the plate, which carries the awl and moves the
awl shield back away from the work to make room for the thread carrier.
To the outside of the bracket which forms the bearings for the pivot of
the awl stock is secured a gauge, which turns freely on a journal on
the said bracket, and is adjustable by means of a screw working in a slot.
The said gauge is bifurcated and catches over the edge of the work, and
retains the same in the required position while the stitch is being made.
By adjusting this gauge the position of the work in relation to the
stitching apparatus can be regulated, and the direction in which the
thread is carried through the work can be accomodated to the nature of
the work. The thread is looped round the hook of the needle by the
thread carrier, which projects from a lever that is firmly secured to a
rod. The inner end of the said lever is provided with a projecting lip.
which catches against a projection on the circumference of the main
disc. and is thrown by this projection into a cam groove in the said disc.
and this cam groove is so shaped that it imparts to the lever a quick

page_text: oscillating motion.
The rod which supports the said lever has its
bearings in the main frame, and is so arranged that it can assume a
sliding motion in the direction of its length. The end of the said rod
extends beyond the frame, and is subjected to the action of a spring,
which holds the said projecting end in contact with a lever which has
its fulcrum on a pivot secured in the main frame, its upper end
(which may be provided with a friction roller) bearing against the
side of the disc which carries the two cams. From this side of the disc
rises a cam, and as the disc revolves the last-mentioned lever receives
an oscillating motion, whereby the rod which supports the quickly
oscillating lever is caused to slide in its bearings, and a traversing
motion is imparted to the thread carrier. This motion takes place when
the needle has reached its lowest position, and by the compound
oscillating and traversing motions of the thread carrier the thread is
looped round the hook of the needle, and as the needle recedes it draws
this loop through the work.
The stitch is produced as follows:-After the work has been adjusted
in the proper relation to the stitch-making mechanisnf the awl descends
to the lowest position and opens a hole in the work to receive the needle.
Then the needle follows the awl point to point until nearly through
the work, then the awl gains on the needle, thereby leaving an opening
for the thread carrier to pass, then the lever which receives an oscillating
motion from the cam disc imparts a transverse motion to the thread
carrier, and at the end of such motion the tail of the thread carrier
is thrown into a cam groove which gives it a quick depressed motion
while the sliding rod receives its backward motion, and thus the thread
which passes through the eye of the thread carrier is looped into the
hook of the needle. The needle then recedes drawing the loop of
the thread through the work, and when the needle has reached the
position where its hook is within its shield the action of the lever
carries the needle stock outward, the awl in the meantime remaining
stationary. The feed takes place while the needle changes its position,
and the feed is effected with a slack thread. The lever is, arrested in
its back movement, and remains stationary until the awl assumes
the position from which it commences to recede. By the outward
motion of the needle the previous stitch is drawn tight, and as the
needle descends it passes through the loop previously carried up and
leaves this loop on the work; by drawing the subsequent loop through

page_text: the same a chain stitch is formed, each stitch being drawn tight by
the outward swinging of the needle, as previously set forth. In order
to hold the loop in the proper position for the needle to pass through
it on its descent or forward stroke the loop guide is attached to the
feeder. Without this loop guide the loops on account of the stiffness
of the thread are liable to assume such a position that the needle
will miss them. The work is placed on a last, which is secured in a
last holder of any suitable construction. This last holder is supported
by the table, which is provided with a leg that slides up and down in
a vertical direction, being guided in a bracket which is secured to the
column by a set screw, and which can be adjusted up and down on
the said column if desired. A spring which is wound round the leg
of the table has a tendency to force that table up, so that the work
placed on the table is pressed with a yielding power against the gauge.
From the bottom end of the sliding leg extends a chain which is
connected with a treadle in the bottom of the column so that the
operator by stepping on the treadle is enabled to depress the table
and to relieve the work from the gauge. When the table is depressed
to a certain depth it is caught by a spring catch which retains it until
released by the operator. The feed movement of the work is effected
by the feeder which is pivoted to the end of a lever. This lever has its
fulcrum on a pivot, and is provided with a roller stud which works in a
cam groove in the side of the feed motion disc. From the rear of the
feeder projects a loop with a slot which receives the end of a lever, the
said end being rounded to correspond with the form of the slot, so that it
can roll therein without having a dead motion. This lever has its
fulcrum in the bifurcated head of a screw, and its upper end is armed
with a roller stud which works in a cam groove in the periphery of
the said disc. By the action of the feeder lever the feeder is raised
and depressed on the work, and at the moment when it is depressed
an oscillating motion is imparted to it by the lever with the rounded
end. and the work is fed along the required distance. The feed motion
is adjusted by shifting the roller stud in the slotted end of the last-
mentioned lever. the feed being increased if the said roller stud is
brought closer to the fulcrum of the lever and decreased if the roller
stud is moved away from the fulcrum.
The stop motion is so adjusted that the motion of the sewing
mechanism is arrested whenever the needle and awl are out of the
work, so that the work can be readily taken out of the machine or put

page_text: in simply by depressing the table. This purpose is effected by securing
a wheel to the driving shaft by means of a dog which is situated
in a cavity in the end of the driving shaft and subjected to the action
of a spring. From the end of the said dog a nose projects through
a slot in the shaft, and if the dog is permitted to follow the action
of its spring a shoulder on the said dog catches into a groove in the
wheel and the shaft is compelled to revolve with the said wheel.
Over the shaft and close to its circumference moves a lever which
is connected by a rod with a treadle secured to the bottom end
of the column. If the treadle is not depressed the end of this lever
comes in such a position that it strikes the nose of the dog and throws
the shoulder of the said dog out of the groove of the wheel which
being thereby released from the shaft continues to revolve independently
of the said shaft, while the shaft is brought to a dead stop by the lever
bearing against the nose of the dog. By adjusting the dog in the proper
position in relation to the sewing mechanism the shaft is stopped when
the needle and awl are clear of the work. By stepping on the treadle
or by exerting a strain on its connecting rod the lever is turned back
clear of the nose of the dog, the latter engages with the wheel, and
the shaft is compelled to move. During the operation of sewing the
operator has his foot continually on the stop motion treadle, and if
he wants to stop he takes his foot off and the machine stops in the
desired position without making another stitch.
The thread used in this machine is of that kind commonly known by
the term "wax thread," and in order to make it pliable particularly in
the cold season it has to be heated. This purpose is effected by passing
it through a tube in the frame, such tube being exposed to a flame
which is kept burning in the interior of the column and which strikes
the tube as the same passes through a cavity in the frame.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said William Robert Lake in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 11th January 1869.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, WILLIAM
ROBERT LAKE, of the "International Patent Office," No. 8, Southampton
Buildings, Chancery Lane, in the County of Middlesex, Consulting
Engineer, send greeting.

page_text: WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Twenty-ninth day of July, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-eight, in the thirty-
second year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors,
give and grant unto me, the said William Robert Lake, Her special
licence that I, the said William Robert Lake, my executors, adminis-
trators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said William Robert
Lake, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time
agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter
during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use,
exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and
'IM.
Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for
PROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES, AND IN THE MEANS FOR HEATING THE THREAD
USED IN THE SAME," upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said
William Robert Lake, my executors or administrators, by an instru-
ment in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals,
should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Inven-
tion, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause
the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar
months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters
Patent.
NOW KNOW YE. that I, the said William Robert Lake, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same
is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement, reference being had to the accompanying
Drawings forming a part of this Specification:-
My improvements relate to sewing machines of that class which are
intended particularly for the manufacture of boots and shoes, and are
adapted not only to the manufacture of turned work but to the sewing
on of welts and soles, the operation of sewing being effected by the
combined action of a barbed or crochet needle and awl, both working
concentrically within the radius of a circle.
The said improvements consist partly in the arrangement of a con-
tinuous shaft in combination with the several discs, which produce the
motion of the crotchet needle, the awl, and the various other parts
constituting the sewing mechanism in such a manner that an independent
motion can be given both to the needle and to the awl, the discs being
adjustable on the shaft each independent of the others, so that a correct

page_text: motion of the various parts of the sewing mechanism in relation to each
other is insured. Also in the arrangement of an independent oscillating
needle stock, and an independent oscillating awl stock in combination
with lever segments and toothed quadrants, or other suitable mechanism
in such a manner that the motion of the needle is rendered independent
of the awl, and either of these instruments can be made to "dwell" or
remain stationary at certain stages of its motion, as the nature of the
work. may require. Further in the arrangement of an oscillating lever
forming the bearing for the pivot of the needle stock in combination
with a lever segment and toothed quadrant on the said needle stock
in such a manner that by the action of the oscillating lever a motion
away from the stationary axis of the awl stock is imparted to the needle
stock and needle without throwing the toothed quadrant out of gear with
the lever segment. Also in the arrangement of a locking lever in com-
bination with the oscillating lever which carries the needle stock in such
a manner that the said oscillating lever is firmly retained in position
while the needle passes through the work. Further in the arrangement
of a thread carrier, which receives a vibrating and a transversely sliding
motion in such a manner that by the said thread carrier the thread is
looped round the hook of the needle without fail and with perfect
regularity. Also in the arrangement of a barb coverer in combination
with the needle and awl stock in such a manner that by the action of
the said barb coverer the barb of the needle is covered at the proper
intervals, thereby preventing the same from catching in the loops on its
return strokes. Also in the arrangement of a loop guide in combination
with the feeder and with the oscillating needle in such a manner that by
the action of the said loop guide each loop is acted upon atthe proper mo-
ment, and held in the position to allow the needle to pass through it with-
out fail. Further in the arrangement of a spiral spring and stop working
on the periphery of the awl shield, and secured to the oscillating awl stock
in such a manner that the said awl shield is held by the action of the
spring close up to the material to be pierced in the position to support
the awl, and is only withdrawn for a short time against the action of the
spring to make room for the thread carrier. Also in arranging the needle
and the needle shield in such relation to each other that when the needle
is in its outer position to draw the loop tight its hook or barb is entirely
inside the shield, thereby holding the needle steady and preventing the
loop from getting out of the barb. Further in the arrangement of a
rising and falling lever and of a transversely oscillating lever in com-

page_text: bination with the feeder in such a manner that a sure and reliable feed
for the work to be sewed is obtained. Also in the arrangement of an
adjustable gauge in combination with the sewing mechanism in such a
manner that the position of the work in relation to the awl and needle
can be regulated according to the nature of the work to be sewed.
Further in the arrangement of a stop motion in combination with the
driving shaft and with the sewing mechanism in such a manner that
the machine will always be stopped when the needle and awl are out of
the work, and thereby the removal and introduction of the work are
materially facilitated. Also in the arrangement of a self-adjusting table
moving up or down in a vertical direction, and supported by a spring
which presses it up towards the sewing mechanism in such a manner
that by the spring the work is kept up against the gauge, while the table
adjusts itself according to the sinuosities of the work to be sewed.
Further in the arrangement of a treadle and spring catch in combination
with the self-adjusting table and with the sewing mechanism in such a
manner that the operator is enabled to depress the table by the action
of the foot, leaving both his hands free to guide the work. Also in a
tube situated in the lower part of the frame, and exposed to the action
of a flame for the purpose of heating the wax thread as the same passes
to the sowing mechanism

page_text: A represents a column made of cast iron or other suitable material of
convenient height for the operator. On the top of this column is secured
the frame B which forms the bearings for the working parts of the sewing
mechanism; C is the driving shaft, on which are mounted four discs
D, E, F, G, the discs E, F, being secured directly to the shaft, while the
discs D and G are fastened to the discs E and F by set screws or other
means in such a manner that the various discs can be adjusted in relation
to each other as may be required. The disc D is provided with two cams
on its outside face, one controlling one of the motions of the thread
carrier, and the other giving motion to the lever I* of the locking
apparatus. On the inside face there is a cam groove which gives motion
to the oscillating lever I. The disc E, which may be termed the main
disc, is provided with two cam grooves, one of which controls the
motions of the needle while the other assists in controlling the motions
of the thread carrier; the disc F controls the motion of the awl, and
the disc G the motions of the feeder. The needle stock H consists of a
quadrant, from the centre of which projects a pivot a, which has its
bearing in the lever I (see Figure 11), and the pivot a is by preference
made solid with the needle stock, so that these two parts are not liable
to become disconnected. The lever I is suspended from a rod J which
extends across the upper portion of the frame B (see Figure 3), and to
the side of the said lever is attached a roller stud b which works in a
cam groove c in the disc D, best seen in Figure 2. This cam groove is
so shaped that by its action the lever I and the needle stock are made
to swing out away from the stationary centre of the axis of the awl
stock Mat certain intervals, and the said lever is guided in its oscillating
motion by a slotted bracket d, through which the same passes, and
which is secured to the frame B in close proximity to the needle stock.
When the lever I is at the inner end of its stroke it is locked by a
pin projecting therefrom, and catching in the slotted lever I* which
swings on a stud ja projecting from the bracket d, and which at the
proper moment is pressed in against the lever I by the cam on the side
of the disc D. The quadrant H, which forms the principal portion of
the needle stock, is provided with cogs e on its circumference, and these
cogs gear in corresponding cogs f on the edge of a lever segment K,
which is also suspended from the rod J supporting the lever I, but
situated on the opposite side of the disc E, as shown in Figures 2 and 3.
From the side of the lever segment projects a roller stud g into a cam
groove hip the side of the disc E, as shown in dotted lines in Figure 2.

page_text: This cam groove is so shaped and situated in relation to the cam groove c
that the lever segment K will assume an oscillating motion, which
coincides at certain times with the oscillating motion of the lever I, but
at other times the lever segment K moves while the lever I remains
stationary. The object of this arrangement is to produce the required
motion of the needle, as will be herein-after more fully described. The
needle n is a hook or crotchet needle, and it is curved to form a segment
It
of a circle described from the centre of motion of the needle stock.
is secured to the needle stock or quadrant H by a clamp i, or by any
other suitable means, and is strengthened in its position by a shield j
which embraces the needle, and is attached to a plate k situated on
the side of the quadrant H, and turning independently thereof on the
pivot a. This needle shield serves to support the needle as the same
enters and leaves the work. The awl p is secured to the awl stock M
by a clamp 9 (see Figure 9), and the said awl stock is constructed
similar to the needle stock, it consists of a quadrant, from which
extends a pivot r which has its bearing in a brackets (best seen in
Figures 3 and 11). This bracket is firmly secured to the main frame B
by two screws t, u, and the awl stock receives only an oscillating
motion, but no motion toward and from the centre of the driving
shaft. To the awl stock is secured a barb coverer 1, which serves to
cover the barb of the needle at proper intervals, so as to prevent the
same from catching on its return strokes in the loops previously formed
and not yet drawn tight. The oscillating motion of the awl stock is
produced by a lever segment N, which is suspended from the rod J,
and provided with a roller stud v that works in a cam groove w in the
dise F, and cogs a' on the edge of the lever segment gear into corre-
sponding cogs on the periphery of the quadrant M. To this quadrant
is attached the plate 6' which carries the awl and shield c', and which
oscillates freely on the pivot r of the quadrant M. A spring ', which
is connected at one end to the main frame B and at the opposite end to
the plate 6'. has a tendency to keep the awl shield close to the edge of
the work, but when the quadrant M. turns back to the position shown
in Figure 1 a pin e' projecting from the said quadrant catches against a
shoulder of the plate band carries the awl shield back away from
the work, so as to make room for the thread carrier. To the outside
of the brackets which forms the bearings for the pivot of the awl stock
is secured the gauge O, which turns freely on a journal on the bracket s,
and is adjustable by means of a screw g' working in a slot h' (sec

page_text: Figures 11 and 4). The gauge O is bifurcated, as shown in Figure 4,
and catches over the edge of the work and retains the same in the
required position while the stitch is being made. By adjusting the
gauge the position of the work in relation to the stitching apparatus
can be regulated, and the direction in which the thread is carried
through the work can be accomodated to the nature of the worke to be
sewed. The thread is looped round the hook of the needle n by the
thread carrier P, which projects from a lever that is firmly secured
to a rod. The inner end of the said lever is provided with a pro-
jecting lip which catches against a projection j* on the circumference
of the disc E, and is thrown by this projection into a cam groove j' in
the said disc, and the cam groove is so shaped that it imparts to the
lever a quick oscillating motion. The rod which supports the
lever has its bearings in the main frame B, and is so arranged that
it can assume a sliding motion in the direction of its length. The end
of the said rod extends beyond the frame B, and is subjected to the
action of a spring 1', which holds the said projecting end in contact
with a lever Q. This lever has its fulcrum on a pivot m' secured in
the main frame B, and its upper end (which may be provided with a
friotion roller) bears against the side of the disc D. From this side
rises a cam n', and as the disc revolves the lever Q receives an oscillating
motion, whereby the rod k is caused to slide in its bearings, and a
traversing motion is imparted to the thread carrier P. This motion
takes place when the needle has reached its lowest position, and by
the compound oscillating and traversing motions of the thread carrier
the thread is looped round the hook of the needle, and as the needle
recedes it draws this loop through the work.
The stitch is produced as follows:-After the work has been adjuster
in the proper relation to the stitch-making machanism the awl descends
to the lowest position, shown in dotted lines in Figure 7,and opens a hole
in the work to receive the needle, then the needle and awl assume the
position shewn in Figure 8, from which point the needle follows the awl
point to point until nearly through the work, then the awl gains on the
needle, thereby leaving an opening for the thread carrier to pass (as
best seen in Figure 5), then the lever Q imparts a transverse motion
to the thread carrier, and at the end of the said motion the tail of the
thread carrier is thrown into a cam groove, which gives it a quick
depressed motion, while the rod k¹ receives its backward motion, and

page_text: thereby the thread which passes through the eye of the thread carrier is
looped into the hook of the needle. The needle then recedes drawing
the loop of the thread through the work, and when the needle has
reached the position shown in Figure 6 its hook is within its shield;
then the action of the lever I carries the needle stock out to the position
shown in full lines in Figure 7, the awl in the meantime remaining
stationary, as shown in Figures 6 and 7. The feed takes place while
the needle changes its position from the full to the dotted lines in
Figure 7, by which means the feed is effected with a slack thread, and
when the needle is in the position shown by the dotted lines the lever I
is arrested in its back movement and remains stationary until the
awl assumes the position shown by the said dotted lines, then the
awl commences to recede and is overtaken by the needle, as shown
in Figure 8. By the outward motion of the needle the previous stitch
is drawn tight, and as the needle descends it passes through the loop
previously carried up and leaves this loop on the work, and by drawing
the subsequent loop through the same a chain stitch is formed, each
stitch being drawn tight by the outward swinging of the needle, as
previously stated. To prevent the catching of the needle in the loop on
its return stroke its barb is covered by the barb coverer 1, as previously
stated, and to hold the loop in the proper position for the needle to pass
through it on its descent or forward stroke the loop guide m* is attached
to the feeder, as shown in Figures 3 and 4, or it may be attached to any
other suitable portion of the machine, and operated by either of the cam
discs. Without this loop guide the loops on account of the stiffness of
the thread are liable to assume such a position that the needle will miss
them whenever the said needle moves from the position shown in full
lines in Figure 7 to that shown in dotted lines, and it is at that moment
and while the feed takes place that the loop guide is brought into action.
The work is placed on a last, which is secured in a last holder R of any
suitable construction; this last holder is supported by the table T, which
is provided with a leg o' that slides up and down in a vertical direction.
being guided in a bracket S which is secured to the column A by a set
screw p. and which can be adjusted up and down on said column if
desired. A spring q', which is wound around the leg of the table, has
a tendency to force the table up, so that the work placed on the said
table is pressed with a yielding power against the gauge O. From the
bottom end of the leg o' extends a chain r¹, which is intended to be
connected with a treadle at the bottom of the column A, so that the

page_text: operator by stepping on the treadle is enabled to depress the table and
to releive the work from the gauge. When the table is depressed to a
certain depth it is caught by the spring catch s', which retains it until
released by the operator. The feed motion of the work is effected by
the feeder U which is pivotted to the end of a lever V (see Figure 4);
this lever has its fulcrum on a pivot t', and is provided with a roller
stud u' which works in a cam groove in the side of the disc G. From
the rear of the feeder U projects a loop v¹ with a slot which receives the
end of a lever X, the said end being rounded to correspond with the
form of the slot, so that it can roll therein without having a dead motion.
This lever has its fulcrum in the bifurcated head of the screw t, and its
upper end is armed with a roller stud y' which works in a cam groove z¹
in the periphery of the disc G (see Figure 3). By the action of the
lever Vthe feeder is raised and depressed on the work, and at the moment
when it is depressed it has an oscillating motion imparted to it by the
leverX,and the work is fed along the required distance. The feed motion
is adjusted by shifting the roller stud y' in the slotted end of the lever X,
the feed being increased if the said roller stud is brought closer to the
fulcrum of the lever, and decreased if the roller stud is moved away from
the fulcrum.
It remains to describe the stop motion, which is so adjusted that
the motion of the sewing mechanism is arrested whenever the needle
and awl are out of the work, so that the work can be readily taken
out of the machine or put in simply by depressing the table. This
purpose is effected by securing the hand wheel Z to the driving shaft C
by means of a dog a, which is situated in a cavity in the end of the
driving shaft, and subjected to the action of a spring b. From the end
of the dog projects a nose c through a slot in the shaft, and if the dog is
permitted to follow the action of its spring a shoulder & on the said
dog catches into a groove in the hand wheel, and the shaft is compelled
to revolve with said wheel. Over the shaft and close to its circum-
ference sweeps a lever e³, which is connected by a rod f with a treadle
secured to the bottom end of the column. If the treadle is not
depressed the end of the lever e comes in such a position that it strikes
the nose of the dog a², and throws the shoulder of the said dog out
of the groove of the hand wheel, which being thereby released from the
shaft C continues to revolve independently of the said shaft, while the
shaft is brought to a dead stop by the lever et bearing against the nose

page_text: of the dog By adjusting the dog in the proper position in relation to
the sewing mechanism the shaft C is stopped when the needle and awl
are clear of the work. By stepping on the treadle or by exerting a
strain on the rod f the lever is turned back clear of the nose of the
dog, the dog engages with the hand wheel, and the shaft C is compelled
to move. During the operation of sewing the operator has his foot
continually on the stop motion treadle, and if he wants to stop he takes
his foot off and the machine stops in the desired position without making
another stitch.
6
The thread used in this machine is of that kind commonly known by
the term wax thread," and in order to make it pliable, particularly
in the cold season, it has to be heated. This purpose is effected by
passing it through a tube A' in the frame B, the said tube being exposed
to a flame which is kept burning in the interior of the column A, and
which strikes the tube as the same passes through a cavity in the
frame B (see Figure 1).
Having thus fully described the said Invention as communicated to
me by my foreign correspondent, and shown how the same may be
conveniently and advantageously carried into practice, I claim,-
First. The arrangement and combination of the continuous shaft C,
discs D, E, F, G, needle stock H, needle n, awl stock M, and awi P, all
as herein shown and described.
Second. The independent oscillating needle stock II and independent
oscillating awl stock M in combination with the lever segments K, N,
and cam discs E, F, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
Third. Giving to the awl a downward motion from the position shown
in Figure 5 to that shown in Figure 6 to make room for the motion of
the needle, as described.
Fourth. Leaving an open space between the point of the needle and
the point of the awl while both the needle and the awl remain stationary
in the position shown in Figure 5 to allow the thread carrier to perform
its operation.
Fifth. Allowing the needle to "dwell" in the position shown in
dotted lines in Figure 7 while the awl passes through the work, so
that the point of the awl will not come in contact with the needle.

page_text: Sixth. The oscillating lever I forming the bearing for the needle
stock and operating in combination with the said needle stock,
substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
Seventh. The arrangement of a locking lever I* in combination with
the oscillating lever I which carries the needle stock, substantially as
and for the purpose set forth.
Eighth. The thread carrier P having a compound oscillating and
traversing motion, substantially as and for the purpose described.
Ninth. The barb coverer / secured to the awl shield M, and operating
in combination with the needle N, substantially as and for the purpose
described.
Tenth. The loop guide m* secured to the feeder U, substantially as
and for the purpose set forth.
Eleventh. The spring d' and stop e' in combination with the awl
shield c and awl stock M, substantially as and for the purpose
described.
Twelfth. Causing the hook of the needle to recede entirely within the
needle shield, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
Thirteenth. The rising and falling lever V and oscillating lever X in
combination with the feeder U, substantially as and for the purpose
described.
Fourteenth. The slot and set screw in combination with the
gauge O, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
Fifteenth. The stop motion composed of a spring dog a² and lever e³
or other equivalent devices in combination with the oscillating needle
and awl, substantially as described, so that the machine is stopped
always when the needle and awl are clear of the work.
Sixteenth. The self-adjusting yielding table T moving up and down
in a vertical direction towards and from the gauge O, substantially as
and for the purpose set forth.
Seventeenth. The arrangement of a treadle and spring catch in
combination with the table T, substantially as and for the purpose
described.

page_text: Eighteenth. The tube A' passing through a cavity in the frame B
and exposed to a flame of a lamp or gaslight in the interior of the
column A, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Robert Lake, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, this Ninth day of January, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-nine.
WILLIAM ROBERT LAKE. (L.S.)
Witness,
THO. N. PALMER,
Clerk to Messrs. Haseltine, Lake, & Co.,
8, Southampton Buildings,
W.C.

page_text: THE BLAKE & GOODYEAR BOOT AND SHOE MACHINERY COMPANY'S
AMENDED DISCLAIMER AND MEMORANDUM OF ALTERATION.
[LAKE'S PATENT.]
In the Matter of Letters Patent granted to WILLIAM ROBERT LAKE, of the
"International Patent Office," No. 8, Southampton Buildings, Chancery
Lane, in the County of Middlesex, Consulting Engineer, for the Invention
of "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES, AND IN THE MEANS FOR
HEATING THE THREAD USED IN THE SAME." A communication from
abroad by Daniel Mills, of the City and State of New York, United
States of America, Machinist, dated 29th July 1868, No. 2378, which
Letters Patent and all right, title, and interest therein are now vested
in the Blake and Goodyear Boot and Shoe Machinery Company (Limited),
of No. 1, Worship Street, Finsbury, in the County of Middlesex.
DISCLAIMER AND MEMORANDUM OF ALTERATION proposed to be
entered by the said Company.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters Patent
bearing date the 29th day of July, in the year of our Lord One thousand eight
bundred and sixty eight, in the thirty second year of Her reign, did, for Herself,
Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto the said William Robert Lake, his
executors, administrators, and assigns, the sole privilege of making, using, exercising,
and vending within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel
Islands, and Isle of Man, the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING
MACHINES, AND IN THE MEANS FOR HEATING THE THREAD USED IN THE SAME,"
for and during the term of fourteen years thence next ensuing:
And whereas, in pursuance of a proviso contained in the said Letters Patent, the
Baid William Robert Lake did, within six calendar months next and immediately
after the date of the said Letters Patent, cause a Specification of the said Invention
to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office:
And whereas by assignment dated the Twelfth day of January, One thousand
eight hundred and sixty-nine, and by divers mesne assignments, and ultimately
by an Indenture dated the Thirty first day of August, One thousand eight

page_text: hundred and seventy six, all of which were duly registered in the Great Seal
Patent Office aforesaid, the said Letters Patent and all right, title, and interest
therein became vested in the said Company:
And whereas since the said Letters Patent have been so assigned we have been
advised, and have reason to believe that certain portions of the Invention described
and claimed in the said Specification were not new in respect of the public
knowledge, and use thereof, at the date of the said Letters Patent:
NOW KNOW YE therefore, that we, the said Blake and Goodyear Boot and
Shoe Machinery Company (Limited), by and with the consent of Her Majesty's
Solicitor General, do alter and amend the said Specification as follows, that is to
say-Referring to the Queen's Printers' copy of the said Specification, on page 10,
and in line 8 we strike out the word "Further," and the whole of the matter
following the same, to and including the word "segment" in the 14th line; and in
line 21 we strike out the word "Also," and the whole of the matter following, to
and inclusive of the word "fail" in the 29th line. On page 17 we strike out the
26th, 27th, and 28th lines forming the 3rd claiming clause; on page 18 we strike
out the whole of the words on the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd lines. We strike out the
whole of the words in the 9th, 10th, 11th, 12th, and 13th lines; and we strike out
the 28th, 29th, and 30th lines forming the sixteenth claiming clause; and we re-
number the claiming clauses consecutively in accordance with the above altera-
tions.
And in order that the effect of the said Disclaimer and Memorandum of Altera-
tion may be fully understood we annex a copy of the Specification, omitting the
introductory and concluding clauses thereof, as it will appear when such Disclaimer
and Memorandum of Alteration have been made.
"NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said William Robert Lake, do hereby declare
"the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-
"formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
"statement, reference being had to the accompanying Drawings forming a part of
"this Specification:"-
"My improvements relate to sewing machines of that class which are intended
"particularly for the manufacture of boots and shoes, and are adapted not only to
"the manufacture of turned work, but to the sewing on of welts and soles, the
"operation of sewing being effected by the combined action of a barbed or crotchet
"needle and awl, both working concentrically within the radius of a circle."
"The said improvements consist partly in the arrangement of a continuous
"shaft, in combination with the several discs, which produce the motion of the
"crochet needle, the awl and the various other parts constituting the sewing
"mechanism in such a manner that an independent motion can be given both to
"the needle and to the awl, the discs being adjustable on the shaft, each independent
" of the others, so that a correct motion of the various parts of the sewing mechanism
" in relation to each other is insured. Also in an arrangement of an independent
" oscillating needle stock, and an independent oscillating awl stock, in combination
" with lever segments and toothed quadrants, or other suitable mechanism in such a
"manner that the motion of the needle is rendered independent of the awl, and
"either of these instruments can be made to 'dwell' or remain stationary at certain
stages of its motion, as the nature of the work may require. Also in the arrange-
"ment of a locking lever in combination with the oscillating lever which carries
"the needle stock in such a manner that the said oscillating lever is firmly retained
"in position while the needle passes through the work. Further, in the arrangement
" of a thread carrier, which receives a vibrating and a transversely sliding motion
" in such a manner that by the said thread carrier the thread is looped round the
"hook of the needle without fail and with perfect regularity. Further, in the
" arrangement of a spiral spring and stop working on the periphery of the awl
"shield, and secured to the oscillating awl stock in such a manner that the said
"awl shield is held by the action of the spring close up to the material to bo

page_text: pierced in the position to suppport the awl, and is only withdrawn for a short
"time against the action of the spring, to make room for the thread carrier. Also
"in arranging the needle and the needle shield in such relation to each other that
"when the needle is in its outer position to draw the loop tight its hook or barb is
"entirely inside the shield, thereby holding the needle steady and preventing the
"loop from getting out of the barb. Further, in the arrangement of a rising and
"falling lever and of a transversely oscillating lever in combination with the feeder
" in such a manner that a sure and reliable feed for the work to be sewed is
"obtained. Also in the arrangement of an adjustable gauge in combination with
"the sewing mechanism in such a manner that the position of the work in relation
"to the awl and needle can be regulated according to the nature of the work to be
"sewed. Further, in the arrangement of a stop motion in combination with the
driving shaft and with the sewing mechanism in such a manner that the machine
"will always be stopped when the needle and awl are out of the work, and thereby
"the removal and introduction of the work are materially facilitated.
"arrangement of a self-adjusting table moving up or down in a vertical direction,
"and supported by a spring which presses it up towards the sewing mechanism in
"such a manner that by the spring the work is kept up against the gauge, while
"the table adjusts itself according to the sinuosities of the work to be sewed.
"Further, in the arrangement of a treadle and spring catch in combination with
"the self-adjusting table and with the sewing mechanism in such a manner that
"the operator is enabled to depress the table by the action of the foot, leaving
"both his hands free to guide the work. Also in a tube situated in the lower part
"of the frame, and exposed to the action of a flame for the purpose of heating the
"wax thread as the same passes to the sewing mechanism."
"DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.
Figure 1 represents a vertical section of a machine constructed according to
"this Invention taken in the plane indicated by the line a, a, Figure 3, and
"looking in the direction of the arrow opposite to that line; Figure 2 is a similar
"section of the same, the plane of section being indicated by the line y, y, Figure 3,
"and looking in the direction of the arrow opposite to that line; Figure 3 is a
"sectional front elevation of the said machine; Figure 4 is a vertical section of the
"same on the line 2, 2, Figure 3, indicating the plane of section, and looking in the
"direction of the arrow opposite to that line; Figures 5, 6, 7, and 8, show
"different positions of the needle and awl; Figure 9 is a detached elevation of the
"awl stock; Figure 10 is a similar view of the needle stock; Figure 11 is a
"detached vertical section of the needle and awl stocks taken in the plane
"indicated by the line a', ', Figure 2; Figure 12 is a detached sectional view of
"the stop motion. Similar letters indicate corresponding parts.
"A represents a column made of cast iron or other suitable material of con-
"venient height for the operator. On the top of this column is secured the
"frame B which forms the bearings for the working parts of the sewing
"mechanism; C is the driving shaft on which are mounted four discs D, E, F, G,
"the discs E, F, being secured directly to the shaft while the discs D and G are
"fastened to the discs E and F by set screws or other means, in such a manner
"that the various discs can be adjusted in relation to each other as may be
required. The disc D is provided with two cams on its outside face, one
"controlling one of the motions of the thread carrier, and the other giving motion
"to the lever I of the locking apparatus. On the inside face there is a cam
groove which gives motion to the oscillating lever L. The disc E which may be
"termed the main disc is provided with two cam grooves, one of which controls
"the motions of the needle, while the other assists in controlling the motions of
"the thread carrier; the dise F controls the motion of the awl, and the disc G, the
"motions of the feeder. The needle stock H consists of a quadrant from the
"centre of which projects a pivot a, which has its bearing in the lever I (see
Figure 11), and the pivot a is by preference made solid with the needle stock, so
"

page_text: "
居家
"
"
"
that these two parts are not liable to become disconnected. The lever I is
suspended from a rod J which extends across the upper portion of the frame B
(see Figure 3), and to the side of the said lever is attached a roller stud b which
"works in a cam groove c in the disc D, best seen in Figure 2. This cam groove is
so shaped that by its action the lever I and the needle stock are made to swing
"out away from the stationary centre of the axis of the awl stock M at certain inter-
"vals, and the said lever is guided in its oscillating motion by a slotted bracket d
through which the same passes, and which is secured to the frame B in close
proximity to the needle stock. When the lever I is at the inner end of its stroke,
"it is looked by a pin projecting therefrom and catching in the slotted lever I,
"which swings on a stud projecting from the bracket d, and which at the proper
"moment is pressed in against the lever I by the cam on the side of the disc D.
"The quadrant H which forms the principal portion of the needle stock is provided
with cogs e on its circumference, and these cogs gear in corresponding cogs fon
"the edge of a lever segment K, which is also suspended from the rod J supporting
"the lever I, but situated on the opposite side of the disc E, as shown in Figures 2
"and 3. From the side of the lever segment projects a roller stud g into a cam
groove in the side of the disc E, as shown in dotted lines in Figure 2.
"This cam groove is so shaped and situated in relation to the cam groove
"that the lever segment K will assume an oscillating motion which coincides
"at certain times with the oscillating motion of the lever I, but at other times
"the lever segment K moves while the lever I remains stationary. The object
"of this arrangement is to produce the required motion of the needle, as will
"be hereinafter more fully described. The needle n is a hook or crochet needle,
" and it is curved to form a segment of a circle described from the centre of
"motion of the needle stock. It is secured to the needle stock or quadrant H
by a clamp i or by any other suitable means, and is strengthened in its
position by a shield which embraces the needle and is attached to a
plate k
"situated on the side of the quadrant H and turning independently thereof on the
pivot a. This needle shield serves to support the needle as the same enters and
leaves the work. The awl p is secured to the awl stock M by a clamp q (see
"Figure 9), and the said awl stock is conssructed similar to the needle stock; it
"consists of a quadrant from which extends a pivot r which has its bearing in a
brackets (best seen in Figures 3 and 11). This bracket is firmly secured to
"the main frame B by two screws t, u, and the awl stock receives only an
oscillating motion, but no notion toward and from the centre of the driving shaft.
"To the awl stock is secured a barb coverer / which serves to cover the barb of the
"needle at proper intervals so as to prevent the same from catching on its return
"strokes in the loops previously formed and not yet drawn tight. The oscillating
"motion of the awl stock is produced by a lever segment N which is suspended
" from the rod J and provided with a roller stud v that works in a cam groove w
"in the disc F, and oogs a¹ on the edge of the lever segment gear into corresponding
"cogs on the periphery of the quadrant M. To this quadrant is attached the plate bl
"which carries the awl and shield e, and which oscillates freely on the pivot r of the
quadrant M. A spring d', which is connected at one end to the main frame B, and at
"the opposite end to the plate 6', has a tendency to keep the awl shield close to the
edge of the work, but when the quadrant M turns back to the position shewn in
Figure 1, a pin el projecting from the said quadrant catches against a shoulder fof
"the plate 6', and carries the awl shield back away from the work so as to make room
"for the thread carrier. To the outside of the bracket a, which forms the bearings for
the pivot of the awl stock, is secured the gauge O, which turns freely on a journal
on the brackets, and is adjustable by means of a screw gl working in a slot ¹
(see Figures 11 and 4). The gauge O is bifurcated, as shown in Figure 4, and
"catches over the edge of the work, and retains the same in the required position
"while the stitch is being made. By adjusting the gauge the position of the work
" in relation to the stitching apparatus can be regulated, and the direction in which
"the thread is carried through the work can be accommodated to the nature of
"
"
"
"
"

page_text: "
"the work to be sewed. The thread is looped round the hook of the needle n by
"by the thread carrier P, which projects from a lever that is firmly secured to
"a rod k'. The inner end of the said lever is provided with a projecting lip, which
"catches against a projection j, on the circumference of the dise E, and is thrown
"by this projection into a cam groove 1 in the said disc, and the cam groove is so
shaped that it imparts to the lever a quick oscillating motion. The rod k¹,
"which supports the lever , has its bearings in the main frame B, and is so
"arranged that it can assume a sliding motion in the direction of its length. The
"end of the said rod extends beyond the frame B, and is subjected to the action of
"a spring, which holds the said projecting end in contact with a lever Q This
"lever has its fulcrum on a pivot ml, secured in the main frame B, and its upper
"end (which may be provided with a friction roller) bears against the side of the
"disc D. From this side rises a cam n¹, and as the disc revolves the lever Q
"receives an oscillating motion, whereby the rod k is caused to slide in its
bearings, and a traversing motion is imparted to the thread carrier P. This
"motion takes place when the needle has reached ita lowest position, and by the
compound oscillating and traversing motions of the thread carrier the thread is
looped round the hook of the needle, and as the needle recedes it draws this loop
"through the work,
"
"
4
"
"
"
"The stitch is produced as follows:-After the work has been adjusted in the
proper relation to the stitch-making mechanism, the awl descends to the lowest
"position, shown in dotted lines in Figure 7, and opens a hole in the work to
"receive the needle; then the needle and awl assume the position shown in
Figure 8, from which point the needle follows the awl point to point until nearly
through the work; then the awl gains on the needle, thereby leaving an opening
"for the thread carrier to pass (as best seen in Figure 5); then the lever Q imparta
a transverse motion to the thread carrier, and at the end of the said motion the
"tail of the thread carrier is thrown into a cam groove, which gives it a quick
depressed motion, while the rod k receives its backward motion, and thereby the
"thread which passes through the eye of the thread carrier is looped into the hook
"of the needle. The needle then recedes, drawing the loop of the thread through the
"work, and when the needle has reached the position shewn in Figure 6 its hook
" is within its shield; then the action of the lever I carries the needle stock out to
"the position shown in full lines in Figure 7, the awl in the meantime remaining
stationary, as shewn in Figures 6 and 7. The feed takes place while the needle
"changes its position from the full to the dotted lines in Figure 7, by which means
"the feed is effected with a slack thread, and when the needle is in the position
"shewn by the dotted lines the lever I is arrested in its back movement, and
"remains stationary until the awl assumes the position shewn by the said dotted
"lines; then the awl commences to recede, and is overtaken by the needle, as shewn
"in Figure 8. By the outward motion of the needle the previous stitch is drawn
tight, and as the needle descends it passes through the loop previously carried
"up, and leaves this loop on the work, and by drawing the subsequent loop
through the same a chain stitch is formed, each stitch being drawn tight
"by the outward swinging of the needle, as previously stated. To prevent the
catching of the needle in the loop on ita return stroke ita barb is covered by
"the barb coverer I, as previously stated; and to hold the loop in the proper position
"for the needle to pass through it on its descent or forward stroke the loop guide m
"is attached to the feeder, as shown in Figures 3 and 4; or it may be attached to
any other suitable portion of the machine and operated by either of the cam disos.
"Without this loop guide the loops on account of the stiffness of the thread are
"liable to assume such a position that the needle will miss them whenever the
"said needle moves from the position shown in full lines in Figure 7 to that shewn
"in dotted lines, and it is at that moment, and while the feed takes place, that the
loop guide is brought into action. The work is placed on a last, which is socured
in a last holder R of any suitable construction; this last holder is supported by
«
"
"

page_text: "
"
"
the table T, which is provided with a leg o' that slides up and down in a vertical
"direction, being guided in a bracket S which is secured to the column A by a set
screw p¹, and which can be adjusted up and down on said column if desired.
"A spring g', which is wound around the leg of the table, has a tendency to force
"the table up, so that the work placed on the said table is pressed with a yielding
power against the gauge O. From the bottom end of the leg of extends a chain
"which is intended to be connected with a treadle at the bottom of the column A,
"so that the operator by stepping on the treadle is enabled to depress the table and
"to relieve the work from the gauge. When the table is depressed to a certain
"depth it is caught by the spring catch a', which retains it until released by the
operator. The foed motion of the work is effected by the feeder U, which is
pivotted to the end of a lever V (see Figure 4; this lever has its fulcrum on a
point t', and is provided with a roller stud u¹, which works in a cam groove in
"the side of the dise G. From the rear of the feeder U projects a loop with a
"slot, which receives the end of a lever X, the said end being rounded to corre-
spond with the form of the slot, so that it can roll therein without having a dead
"motion. This lever has its fulcrum in the bifurcated head of the screw t, and its
" upper end is armed with a roller stud y¹ which works in a cam groove z¹ in the
periphery of the disc G (see Figure 3). By the action of the lever V the feeder
"is raised and depressed on the work, and at the moment when it is depressed it
"has an oscillating motion imparted to it by the lever X, and the work is fed along
"the required distance. The feed motion is adjusted by shifting the roller stud y
"in the slotted end of the lever X, the feed being increased if the said roller stud
"is brought closer to the fulcrum of the lover and decreased if the roller stud is
"moved away from the fulerum.
"
"
"
"It remains to describe the stop motion, which is so adjusted that the motion of
"the sewing mechanism is arrested whenever the needle and awl are out of the
"work, so that the work can be readily taken out of the machine or put in simply
"by depressing the table. This purpose is effected by securing the hand wheel Z
"to the driving shaft C by means of a dog a which is situated in a cavity in the
"end of the driving shaft and subjected to the action of a spring b. From the
"end of the dog projects a nose through a slot in the shaft, and if the dog is
"permitted to follow the action of its spring a shoulder d' on the said dog catches
"into a groove in the hand wheel, and the shaft is compelled to revolve with said.
"wheel. Over the shaft and close to its circumference sweeps a lever e which is
"connected by a rod f with a treadle secured to the bottom end of the column.
"If the treadle is not depressed the end of the lever e comes in such a position
"that it strikes the nose of of the dog a³ and throws the shoulder of the said dog
"out of the groove of the hand wheel, which being thereby released from the
"shaft C continues to revolve independently of the said shaft, while the shaft is
brought to a dead stop by the lever e bearing against the nose of the dog. By
adjusting the dog in the proper position in relation to the sewing mechanism the
"shaft C is stopped when the needle and awl are clear of the work. By stepping
on the treadle or by exerting a strain on the rod f the levor e' is turned back
"clear of the nose of the dog, the dog engages with the hand wheel, and the
"shaft C is compelled to move. During the operation of sewing the operator has
"his foot continually on the stop motion treadle, and if he wants to stop he takes
" his foot off and the machine stops in the desired position without making another
" stitch,
"
"The thread used in this machine is of that kind commonly known by the term
wax thread,' and in order to make it pliable, particularly in the cold season, it
has to be heated. This purpose is effected by passing it through a tube A¹ in
"the frame B, the said tube being exposed to a flame which is kept burning in the
" interior of the column A, and which strikes the tube as the same passes through
a cavity in the frame B (see Figure 1).
"
"Having thus fully described the said Invention as communicated to me by my

page_text: "foreign correspondent, and shown how the same may be conveniently and
"advantageously carried into practice, I claim,
"First. The arrangement and combination of the continuous shaft C, discs D, E,
"F, G, needle stock H, needle n, awl stock M, and awl p, all as herein shown and
u described.
"Second. The independent oscillating needle stock H and independent oscillating
"awl stock M, in combination with the lever segments K, N, and cam discs E, F,
"substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
"Third. Giving to the awl a downward motion from the position shown in
"Figure 5 to that shown in Figure 6 as described, and Leaving an open space
"between the point of the needle, and the point of the awl, while both the needle
"and the awl remain stationary in the position shown in Figure 5, to allow the
"thread carrier to perform its operation, and Allowing the needle to 'dwell' in
"the position shown in dotted lines in Figure 7, while the awl passes through the
"work, so that the point of the awl will not come in contact with the needle.
Fourth
"Fifth. "Fourth. The arrangement of a locking lever I in combination with
"the oscillating lever I which carries the needle stock, substantially as and for the
purpose set forth.
"Sixth. "Fifth. The thread carrier P having a compound oscillating and tra-
"versing motion, substantially as and for the purpose described.
"Seventh. "Sixth. The spring d and stop e¹ in combination with the awl
shield c¹ and awl stock M, substantially as and for the purpose described.
"Eighth. "Seventh. Causing the hook of the needle to recede entirely within
the needle shield, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
"
Ninth. "Eighth. The rising and falling lever V and oscillating lever X in
"combination with the feeder U, substantially as and for the purpose described.
"Tenth,
"Ninth. The slot h¹ and set screw g in combination with the gauge O,
substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
"Eleventh. "Tenth. The stop motion composed of a spring dog a³ and lever e³,
or other equivalent devices in combination with the oscillating needle and awl,
substantially as described, so that the machine is stopped always when the needle
and awl are clear of the work.
"Twelfth. "Eleventh. The self adjusting yielding table T constructed as shown
in the Drawings, and moving up and down in a vertical direction towards and
from the gauge O, and arranged in combination with a treadle and spring catch
ix combination with the table T
The arrangement of
substantially as and for the purpose described.
"Thirteenth. "Twelfth. The tube A¹ passing through a cavity in the frame B,
and exposed to a flame of a lamp or gaslight in the interior of the column A,
substantially as and for the purpose set forth."
In witness whereof, we, Ebenezer Pocock and Charles Frederic Gardner,
Directors of the Blake and Goodyear Boot and Shoe Machinery Company
(Limited), have on behalf of said Company set our hands and seals, and
caused the seal of the said Company to be hereunto affixed.

page_text: I hereby grant my flat, giving leave to the above named Company, viz., The
Assignees of the said Letters Patent
Blake and Goodyear Boot and Shoe Machinery Company (Limited), as to file in
the Great Seal Patent Office, with the Specification to which the same relates, the
above written Amended Disclaimer and Memorandum of Alteration.
HARDINGE S. GIFFARD,
A
Temple, 3rd Jany. 1880.