Improvements in Machines for Sewing Shank Buttons to Fabrics.
Year: 1891

page_text: Date of Application, 5th Mar. 1891
Complete Specification Left, 5th Dec., 1891-Accepted, 5th Mar., 1892
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Machines for Sewing Shank Buttons
to Fabrics.
1, WALTER ELLIS BENNETT, living at No. 45 Sterling Street, in Boston,
Suffolk County in the State of Massachusetts, United States of America,
Mechanical Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as
follows:-
This invention relates to machines comprising stitch forming, or sewing
mechanism, and mechanism for conveying shank-buttons one at a time from a
reservoir to the place on the fabric or on a shoe through which the point of the
needle will pass so that the thread may be carried through the shank of the button
and a loop of thread carried by said needle be brought into convenient position to
be operated upon by a loop-hook to draw out a loop from the needle and hold it
while the needle goes downward through the fabric and can be moved and caused
to come up through the first loop carrying a second one which is then caught by
said loop-hook which at the same time becomes disengaged from the first loop and
carries the second loop to such position that the head of the button is thrown
through this last-named loop which is then drawn downward back of the button-
head and around the shank of the button, thereby securing the button to the fabric
or shoe.
The mechanism for effecting the before mentioned operation, in this button-
sewing machine consists of said button-hopper and button-conveying devices, a
button-gate of substantially the form of a segment of a disk or of quadrant shape,
presenting its curved edge under the delivery end of the button trouge, said gate
being attached to a shaft whereby the gate is given an oscillating motion in a
vertical plane, an opening and shutting clamp hung opposite one end of said gate
which is moved towards and from the end of said trough first to open and receive
a button therefrom and then to turn with the gate and bring the button over the
fabric, a lever attached to said clamp to throw the button held thereby out of the
clamp and through said thread loop, as aforesaid; also sewing mechanism for
operating said needle to give it its end wise motions and to impart thereto vibratory
motions for the formation of stitches and to feed along the fabric; also said loop-
hook which operates in a position at right angles to the end wise movement of the
needle and has an oscillating and an endwise movement towards and from the
needle to engage said loops, one after the other, as described. Also there is
embraced in the said button-sewing machine the requisite mechanism for operating
the said button-feeding devices, the sail button-gate and clamp, the sewing devices,
and the loop-hook, whereby it is given its said oscillating and reciprocating endwise
movements towards and from the side of the needle.
1000

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Machines for Sewing Shank Buttons
to Fabrics.
I, WALTER ELLIS BENNETT, of 45 Sterling Street, Boston in the County of
Suffolk, in the State of Massachusetts, United States of America, Mechanical
Engineer do hereby declare the nature of this invention, and in what manner the
same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement :-
This invention relates to sewing machines, and particularly to those which are
adapted for sewing shank-buttons onto shoes and other objects, and the invention
consists in certain improvements in means for manipulating the buttons whereby
they are brought to positions, successively, to be sewed on, and each button is
subsequently passed through one of the loops of a stitch, and improvements in
means for manipulating the loops of the stitches during the formation of the latter,
and in the sewing mechanism, all as hereinafter fully described, and more
particularly pointed out in the claims.
In the drawing forming part of this Specification,
Figure 1 is a front-side elevation, and
Figure 2 a front end-view of a button-sewing machine embodying my
invention.
Figure 3 is a perspective view of certain operative parts of the machine
separated from the frame thereof, all of which are fully described below.
Figure 4 is a bottom plan view of the presscr-foot, showing a thread-cutter
thereon.
Figure 5 is a perspective view of the lower end of the leg of the presser-foot.
Figure 6 is a perspective view of the inner end of the needle-bar lever,
illustrating its relation to a pin in the needle-bar.
Figure 7 is a perspective view of certain operative parts of the machine,
separated from the frame thereof, which are fully described below.
Figure 8 is a perspective view of the button-clamping finger, of the button-
gate, and their supporting shafts, and other details connected therewith, below
described.
Figure 9 is a sectional view of the last named shafts and a pinion on one
thereof.
Figures 10 to 19, inclusive, are enlarged perspective views, and side and end
elevations of the stitch-forming and button-manipulating mechanisms, all of which
are fully described below.
Figure 20, is a plan view of the underside of a piece of fabric, showing the
positions of the stitch-forming portions of the thread after a button shall have
been sewed thereto.
In the drawing, A indicates the frame of the machine, having a horizontal base,
an upright part at one end of the base, and an arm-like formation extending from
the top of said upright part over said base.
The driving-shaft B, having a driving pinion D, fixed thereon, is hung to rotate
in suitable bearings in said frame, and has a clutch-driving pulley E, thereon of
ordinary construction. A hand-wheel F, is fixed to the rear extremity of the
driving-shaft by which it may be turned by hand for certain adjustments of
mechanism connected therewith.
A cam-shaft h, is hung in the machine to rotate at the side of said driving-shaft,
and has fixed thereon a gear-wheel N, with which said pinion D, engages, thereby
giving shaft, the requisite rotary motion.
The shaft, has fixed thereon a series of cams, as follows: 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, and 21,
the purposes of which are described below.
The mechanism above referred to, for manipulating the buttons whereby they
'

page_text: are brought successively to positions to permit the needle to pass through the
shank thereof in the process of sewing them onto articles, is constructed and
arranged to operate as follows.
A button-hopper 43, is fixed at the end of a button-trough 44, and the latter is
fixed in proper position on the upper part of the frame A, as shown in Figure 1,
the lower end of said trough having a plate-cover, 45, thereon to properly retain
the buttons in position in the trough while they descend one after another to the
lower end thereof where they are delivered to other devices below described.
Within the button-hopper, opposite the upper end of the button-trough, placed a
circular button-feeding or lifting plate, 46, having perforations therein for the
reception of a button in each one thereof which perforations register, one after
another, with the upper end of the button-trough 44. Said plate 46, is indicated
in dotted lines in Figure 1, and is supported on the central stud to be rotated, and
has, on its inner face, suitable ratchet-teeth in circular arrangement to be engaged
by a pawl, 20, whereby such rotation is effected.
Said pawl, 20, is pivoted by one end on the end of the pawl-carrying arm, 19, the
latter being pivoted by one end on the frame A, (see Figure 1) and has a slot
therein as shown, with which a stud on a vertical lever 12, engages. The extreme
upper end of this last-named lever is connected by a rod 48, with the lower end of
a sliding button-turner 47, which lies on the upper side of the button-trough 44,
and is given a reciprocating motion thereon by the vibratory motion of said
lever 12. The purpose of said slide 47, is to turn over any buttons which may be
passing thereunder with their shanks uppermost, and cause the latter to take a
position in the eye or shank-slot 41, (see Figure 10) so that when the buttons
arrive at the delivery end of the slot they will occupy proper positions to permit
them to be taken by other devices, below described, and brought, one by one, to
a position which will permit the needle to pass through the eye of the shank.
The said lever 12, is pivoted near its lower end to the frame A, and has a stud
thereon which engages with one of the grooves of said cam 2, on shaft /, whereby
said lever is given its said vibratory motions.
A button-gate of quadrant-like form (see Figures 3, 8, and 10 to 19, inclusive)
is fixed on the end of a shaft 33, and the latter is supported to have a reciprocating
rotary motion within a hollow shaft 35, and the latter is supported in suitable
bearings in the frame of the machine whereby it may also have a reciprocating
rotary motion. The edge of said button-gate 32, is suitably grooved, as shown,
to permit a portion of the border of the head of a button to enter, more or less,
said groove when brought over the border of said gate at the end of the button-
trough 44, as shown in Figure 10, said button-gate having a rotary motion under
the end of the button-trough from the position shown in Figure 10, to that shown
in Figure 18, and nice verra. In the position shown in said Figure 10, the grooved
border of the gate is so near the delivery end of the button-trough 44, as to
prevent a button from escaping therefrom, and said button o, can only leave the
trough after the gate shall have been turned about one quarter around to allow
said button to drop between the opposite end of the gate and a button-clamping or
finger device, below described, said last-named position of the gate being shown in
Figure 18, and in Figure 19, Figure 18 showing a button in the position that it is
received by said gate, and finger 34, and the next lower button o, in the trough
resting upon the last-named one and being held in that position until the gate, in
its next movement in the direction of the arrow in Figure 18, shall have the bottom
of the groove in its periphery brought under the said button in the end of the
trough, while the one held by the gate and said finger is carried around to the
position shown in Figure 10.
The end of the button-gate 32, opposite the inner side of the button-clamp or
finger 34, has a recess c therein to receive a portion of the head of the button when
the latter is clamped thereagainst, as shown in Figure 10.
The said button-clamp 34, is fixed on, or is integral with the said hollow shaft 35,

page_text: and is constructed substantially in the form shown in Figure 8, that is to say with
one sider, Figure 8, extending in a plane with, and near to the outer side of the
button-gate, and having a lip g, extending at right angles to said part r, opposite
the said recessed end of the button-gate 32. The said lip has a recess e, Fig. 8
therein, similar to, and opposite the said recess c, in the end of the button-gate,
and said two recesses combined, receive the head of the button, and allow the
shank thereof to project between said lip g, of the button-clamp, and the adjoining
end of the gate, as shown in Figures 10 and 12, the button being thus held
while the needles, operates to pass the thread through the eye of its shank, and
while the thread is otherwise manipulated, as below described.
A button-ejecting lever 39, is pivotally hung in the button-clamp 34, one end
of which extends outwardly therefrom, as shown, and its opposite end extends
inwardly at the bottom of said lip g, and the recess e, therein so that a button
lying in said recess is in a position over and upon the said inner end of said
lever. A spring 42, (see Figure 8) has one end bearing on the upper side of
said lever 39, to throw its said inner end into the bottom of the recess e, in the
lip g, of the button-clamp when said lever is free to be so acted upon. Said
spring 42, may, if desired, be dispensed with, as shown in some of the other figures,
leaving said lever to have its inner end carried into the bottom of the recess e,
when the gate and the clamp receive the button from the button-trough, by the
action of the button thercagainst, but the last-named action is less likely to
obstruction from the lever when the spring 42, is employed.
The inner end of said lever 39, is caused to be thrown upward from the bottom
of said recess e, by the engagement of the outer end of said lever, during the
earlier part. of the movement of the button-clamp from the material 49, with the
lower end of a pending spring 40, whereby the lever 39, is swung to the position
shown in Figure 15, the outer end of said lever then slipping from the end of said
spring while the clamp and button-gate turn upward to receive another button.
The outer end of said lever, on its return down movement, slides by the lower end
of said spring 40.
The said hollow shaft 35, on which is the said button clamp 34, has a slot
through it, as shown in Figures 8 and 9, extending circumferentially. A partially
cut pinion 38, is secured on the shaft 35, by a screw 36, passing through the same
and through said slot in said last-named shaft and screwing into the shaft of the
button-gate 33. This construction permits of a certain degree of reciprocating
rotary motion in said shaft 33, and button-gate thereon, independent of the
hollow button-clamp shaft 35, for the purpose below set forth.
A retaining spring 37, (see Figures 3 and 8) is secured by one end to a
suitable part of the frame of the machine and has a friction pad thereon which
is pressed by said spring against the surface of said shaft 35, to restrain its
reciprocating rotary movements within the limits of the motion imparted thereto
by the below-described actuating devices, so that when operating rapidly said
shaft 35, shall not exceed a certain degree of reciprocating rotary motion. A
stop-pin 65, is set in a convenient part of the frame A, (see Figure 18) near
the lower end of the button-trough 44, against which the button-clamp 34, shall
strike while being carried in the direction indicated by the arrow in Figure 16,
just before the cessation of the movement of the button-gate in that direction,
in order to arrest the movement of said clamp and allow the adjoining end of
the gate to move sufficiently far from it to permit a button to drop to the position
shown in Figure 18. This continued movement of the button-gate away from the
button-clamp, to a certain degree, is provided for by the above-described connection
of the pinion 38, with the button-gate shaft 33, by means of said screw which
passes through said slot in the button-clamp shaft, 35, said pinion thus turning
slightly on the last-named shaft while the movement of the button-clamp is arrested
by said stop 65. The reverse rotary motion of said pinion 38, causes the end
of the button-gate to be carried against the button which shall have been received

page_text: between said clamp and gate as shown in Figure 18, and to so hold the button
until it shall have been brought to the position over the material, shown in
Figure 10.
The means for imparting the above referred to reciprocating rotary motion to
the hollow shaft. 35, on which is fixed the said half-formed pinion 38, consist of the
rock-shaft 9, which is supported in suitable bearings on the upper part of the
frame A, on which is secured a pending arm 18, on the lower end of which is a
geared segment, as more clearly shown in Figure 7, said segment engaging with
said pinion 38. Said shaft 9, has fixed thereon an arm 16, to which is pivotally
attached a connecting-rod, 14. The lower end of said connecting-rod has a stud
in its side which engages with a suitably formed slot in the side of the cam 4, and
by the rotation of said cam which is fixed on the shaft h, the shaft 9, is given a
rocking motion thereby producing the requisite vibratory motion of the segment-
bearing end of said arm 18, and a consequent reciprocating rotary motion in said
shaft 35, whereby the above described action of the button-gate 32, and the button-
clamp 34, is produced.
The above referred to sewing mechanism and means for manipulating the loops
of the stitches during the formation of the latter, whereby during the process of
sewing on a button the same is made to pass through one of the loops of the
stitches is constructed and arranged to operate as follows:
The needle s, employed for sewing in the machine berein described, is an ordinary
sewing-machine needle having an eye through it near its point, in which the
thread is continuously carried while the buttons are being sewed on, and in this
respect this machine differs from machines heretofore employed for sewing shank
buttons to shoes and other articles, the needles heretofore employed for this purpose
being what is termed "hook needles," or those having an opening at one side of
the eye to permit the thread to pass in and out of the eye thereat during the
operation of sewing. The employment of the above-described needle in this
machine renders it unnecessary to employ a cast-off, and hence the cost of the
latter and its requisite operating mechanism, and the maintenance of the same, is
obviated. Also, the construction of the sewing mechanism is much simplified and
greater speed of operation made possible.
The said needles, (see Figure 3) is carried on the needle-bar 57, and is secured
thereto by the clamp-block 59. The said needle-bar has the requisite reciprocating
movement in the slot m, in the needle-bar-holder 51, the latter being located in
such position relative to the above-described button-gate that said needle is caused
to move vertically near the side thereof, as clearly shown in Figures 10 and 12.
Said needle-bar-holder has a hub at its lower end, as shown, and is fixed on the
rock-shaft J, by a suitable set-screw or screws, said shaft being hung in suitable
bearings under the lower part of the frame A. as shown in Figure 2. Said shaft J,
has a rocking motion in one direction by means of the cam 5, which has a cam-slot
in one face thereof with which a stud in the end of a lever 50, engages which is
fixed on said shaft J, whereby the latter is so rocked' as to give the requisite back-
ward throw to said needle-bar-holder to bring the point of the needles, to a point
under the material 49, where the stitch is to be made. To provide means for
adjusting and rigidly holding the said needle-bar-holder in proper operative position
relative to the lever 50, so that the said back-throw of the holder shall be
unfailingly in consonance with the movement of said lever, the hub of the latter
on shaft J, is provided with two parallel arms n, n, between which a laterally.
extending arm, on the hub of the needle-bar-holder extends, and this latter-
named arm is rigidly engaged on its opposite sides by two set-screws 2, one in each
of said arms n. By operating said set-screws z, it is clearly seen that the upper
end of the needle-bar-holder, and consequently the point of the needle under the
material to be sewed upon, may be very nicely adjusted to any desired point of
operation.
Although, as above described, said cam 5, imparts a positive vibratory motion in
one direction to the needle-bar-holder 51, it is desirable that no wear of said cam,

page_text: or other operative parts, shall be permitted in any way to interfere with the proper
degree of the backward throw of the needle-bar-holder whereby the point of the
needle is brought to the proper position under the fabric and under the eye of the
button-shank when a stitch is about to be formed, and to that end a spring 52, is
secured to frame A, near shaft J, the free end of which bears against the under
side of the arm w, on the needle-bar-holder, thereby aiding to insure the desired
back-throw thereof, as aforesaid. An adjusting screw v, is placed in said frame
over the end of said arm w, whereby the upward swing of the latter is regulated.
The said spring 52 by bearing on the mider side of said arm w, also serves to
steady the forward throw of the needle-bar-holder, and to hold the stud in
lever 50, which engages with cam 5, against the cam surface which actuates said
lever.
The forward throw of the needle-bar-holder is effected by the action of a cam 7,
fixed on said shaft, against a pivoted pending lever 56, which is hung on the frame
of the machine, and which bears a friction roll, as shown in Figure 3, against which
the periphery of said cam 7, moves whereby said lever is given a vibratory motion
on its suspending stud or pin. Said lever 56, when vibrated as aforesaid, is made
to swing against an arm 53, which is pivoted by one end to the needle-bar-holder ŏl,
and the free end of said arm is adjustable towards and from the pivot-point of the
lever 56, for the purpose of varying and adjusting the extent of the forward throw
of the needle-bar-holder and needle to vary the length of the stitches and the feed-
motion of the needle whereby the material is fed along for the formation of stitches
in different places, and to space the buttons as they are sewed on.
For the purpose of adjusting the free end of arm 53, as aforesaid, a worm
segment 54, is secured on the latter and said segment is operated by means of a
worm shaft 55, which is supported in a bracket secured to the needle-bar-holder 51,
and provided with a head, as shown, which is seized by the fingers for the purpose
of turning it to adjust the arm 53, as above described."
The needle-bar 57, above referred to, has a stud 58, fixed therein, (see Figures 3
and 7) which extends through a slot, in the needle-bar-holder at the base of the.
needle-bar slot m, in the latter, and the requisite vertically reciprocating motion is
imparted to said needle-bar by means of a two-armed cam-lever 64, (see Figure 3)
one arm of which has a stud therein which engages in a groove in the face of the
cam 6, and the second arm of said lever, or lower one, has a slot therein, as shown
in Figure 6, through which the said stud 58, in the needle-bar extends. The
grooved cam 6, imparts the requisite vibratory motion to the lever 61, and the
latter, in turn, imparts said reciprocating motions to the needle-bar. Said cam-
lever 64, is hung on a shaft K, hung in suitable bearings in the frame of the machine
(see Figures 1 and 6).
The presser-foot 27, having a longitudinal slot therein, as shown, through which
the needle operates, and in which it has its above referred to swinging motions, is
suitably located above the needle-bar-holder, and under the cloth-plate 63, against
which said presser-foot is moved by a spring 30; which moves against the lower end
of the presser-foot leg 28, said spring-pressure serving to hold the material upon
which sewing is being performed, and when said material is to be fed along by the
needle a cam 21, on said shaft h, acts against a roller supported on a roller-arm 29,
which is secured against the side of said presser-foot leg, opposite the cam 21, to
move said leg and presser-foot downward, away from the cloth-plate sufficiently to
release the material for the purpose aforesaid, and subsequently the spring 30
returns the presser-foot against the material as before, to hold it while the sewing
is being done.
The said presser-foot has secured on its under side a thread-cutting blade 31,
which extends across the slot in the presser-foot and presents a curved cutting edge,
as shown in Figure 4, to the thread when the work is carried along rearwardly off
from the presser-foot, and draws the thread with it against the edge of said cutter.
The thread so cut has an end of sufficient length left in the needle to provide
for recommencing the sewing on another piece. Said cloth-plate has an arm

page_text: thereon, as shown in Figure 3, whereby it is suitably secured to the frame of the
machine.
The thread is drawn from a suitably located spool or bobbin, and is carried
around an ordinary tension 60, which is fixed on the frame of the machine and
from thence over two guide-rollers on the needle-bar-holder, 61 and 62, and thence
through the eye of the needle, as shown. A hook i, is attached to the lower end of
the presser-foot leg and in practice extends downwardly and is attached by its
opposite end to some convenient foot-treadle, whereby the operator may, at will,
draw the presser-foot downward away from the cloth-plate for the purpose of
inserting work therebetween, or other manipulating thereof. The details of the
construction of said roller and roller-arm 29, on the presser-foot leg 28, are shown
in Figure 5.
The mechanism for manipulating the thread-loops as and for the purpose afore-
said, and to co-operate with the needle for completing the stitches, is constructed
and arranged to operate as follows:
A loop-hook 24, consisting of a single element having thereon two loop-engaging
prongs a² and a³, and having preferably the form of a longitudinal tubular section,
as shown, on one end of which are said prongs, is secured on the end of a shaft 23,
near to the inner side of the button-gate but sufficiently far from the latter to
leave room for the needle and thread to rise from the material, 49, between them,
as shown.
Said shaft 23, is hung in suitable bearings in a pending support 17, which may be
of the form shown in Figures 1 and 7, or any other that may be preferred, the
upper end of said shaft-support being fixed on the rock-shaft 8, and the latter is
hung in suitable bearings on the upper part of the frame A, and has the requisite
rocking motion imparted thereto by means of the grooved cam 3, with which said
rock-shaft is connected by means of an arm 15, thereon, and a connecting-rod 13,
pivotally attached to said arm and having an engagement with a suitably formed
groove in one side of said cam. The said shaft 23, has a pinion 25, fixed thereon
which engages with a fixed rack 22, which is secured to the frame of the machine
back of said shaft-support 17. The said rock-shaft 8, has also a reciprocating
end wise motion whereby the prong-bearing end of the loop-hook 24, is caused to be
moved towards and from the adjoining side of the needle s, as and for the purpose
below set forth. The said end wise motion of the shaft 8, which is comparatively
slight, is imparted thereto by means of the pivoted lever 10, (see Figures 1 and 7)
whose lower end has an engagement with one of the grooves of cam 2, on shaft,
and whose upper end is bifurcated and is engaged between two nuts 26, on the
rear end of the shaft 8, which nuts provide means for adjusting the rock-shaft
and its actuating lever so that the proper endwise movement of said shaft is
assured.
The operation of this machine in sewing buttons to material after they shall have
been brought one by one so that their shanks occupy a proper position thereover,
as above described, is as follows:
Figure 10 illustrates the position of a button and its shauk over the material
before and after the first movement of the needle in sewing on said button, and it
also illustrates the position of the hook-bearing end of the loop-hook 24 (a section
of which hook is shown in said last-named figure) immediately after said needle
shall have come up through the shank of the button, and as there shown it is seen
that the end of said hook by the endwise movement of said shaft 8, has been
carried near to the side of the needle whereby the prong a, of the loop-hook is
brought to such position that the rotary motion of the hook in the direction of the
arrow in Figure 10, causes said prong to become engaged, as shown, with the thread
at the side, of the needle, and the continued rolling motion of the loop-hook,
actuated by the devices heretofore described connected with shaft 23, on which
said hook is secured, causes a loop to be drawn from the needle (which is termed
the primary loop) and to be carried by the motion of said prong a³, to the position
shown in Figure 12, the needle, meanwhile, having gone back in the direction of

page_text: the arrow in Figure 10, below the fabric, the tension devices also permitting the
requisite amount of thread to be given off under a proper tension. Before the
needle first rises through the fabric to the position shown in Figure 10, the loop-
hook is brought to a position in front of the needle and by the rearward end wise
movement of shaft 8, the end of the loop-hook has been brought about to a line
with the side of the needle adjoining said end of the hook, and when the needle, in
rising, is nearly at its uppermost position, the loop-hook commences to roll towards
the thread carried by the needle, and just as the needle cominences to descend, the
prong a², of said hook engages the thread as shown in said last-named figure, and
said hook continues its rolling motion until it has reached about the position shown
in said figure where said motion is arrested for an instant while the needle descends
below the presser-foot and material, then shaft 8, moves end wise slightly, carrying
forward the loop-hook to bring the primary loop carried thereon over the point of
the upwardly rising needle (the latter meanwhile having received its forward move-
ment from the needle-bar-holder) and so holds said primary loop while the needle
comes up through the material and the loop as shown in Figure 12, the loop-hook
having meanwhile rolled to the position there shown. After the needle has fairly
entered said primary loop the loop-hook rolls slightly further backward letting the
end of said loop slip off from said prong a², and shaft 23, moves rearwardly,
drawing with it the loop-hook back to such a position away from the side of the
needle as permits the hook to move forward again without interfering with the
latter. The needle after entering the primary loop, as shown in Figure 12, rises
to the position shown in Figure 13, the loop-hook then being brought forward and
rolling by the side of the needle engages its prong a³, with the thread carried by
the latter, which constitutes the secondary loop, and draws the latter to the position
shown in Figure 14. Then the button-gate and button-clamp commence to move
in the direction of the arrow shown in said last-named figure, and bringing the
outer end of the button-ejecting lever 39, in engagement with the end of the
spring 40, whereby the inner end of said lever under the button, is thrown upward
to the position shown in Figure 15, (the end of the button-gate adjoining the
button-clamp having meanwhile rolled slightly away from the latter) thus lifting
and turning the button to the position shown in said last-named figure, and ejecting
it from between the button-gate and clamp and throwing it through said loop, and
bringing it to such position as causes the thread, or secondary loop thereof carried
by the needle to be drawn down between the button and the button-gate when the
needle next goes down through the fabric, leaving the secondary loop around the
primary loop at the end of the button-shank, as shown in Figure 19, thus tightly
locking the button to the fabric 49. Figure 17 shows the position of the secondary
loop as sliding between the button and the button-gate and clamp while the needle
goes down for the last time. The button-gate and clamp continue their movements
just referred to in the direction of the arrow in Figure 16, until brought to the
position shown in Figure 18, the needle meanwhile moving slightly downward and
at the same time feeding the material along to space the buttons. The needle then
retires beneath the fabric and swings forward thereunder preparatory to coming
again upward through the shank of the next button, the button-gate and clamp
having meanwhile rolled back to the position shown in Figure 10, and the operations
are repeated.
The bevel gears 70 and 71, shown in Figure 1, are the propelling gears of a
button-counting mechanism arranged on the rear side of the machine, and since said
counting mechanism constitutes no part of the invention herein described no
réference has been made to it, nor is it illustrated.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is' to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is:
1. In a sewing-machine, a thread-carrying needle and operating mechanism
substantially as described, combined with an intermittently and reciprocally rotating,

page_text: and end wise moving loop-hook having prongs thereon for successively engaging the
several loops of thread carried by the needle, and mechanism substantially as
described for imparting said movements to the loop-hook, substantially as set
forth.
2. In a machine for sewing shank buttons to fabric, a button-trough, a button-
gate having an intermittent and reciprocating rotary motion under the end of said
trough, a button-clamp supported at, and having a movement toward and from one end
of said gate and moving therewith, and mechanism substantially as described, for
rotating said gate and for moving said clamp, combined and operating substantially
as set forth.
3. The button-clamp fixed on the side of a hollow shaft having a slot there-
through, the button-gate fixed on the end of a shaft within said hollow shaft, a
pinion located and having a limited oscillating movement on said hollow shaft, and
secured to said button-gate shaft by a screw passing through said slot, and mechanism
substantially as described, engaging with said pinion whereby it is given
intermittently reciprocating rotary motions, combined and operating substantially as
set forth.
4. The button-clamp having a side, and a recessed lip extending at right angles
therefrom, a button-ejecting lever pivoted thereon having one end extending
inwardly into the recess in said lip, combined with a fixed spring whose free end
engages the outer end of said lever when said clamp moves away from the material
on which a button has been sewed, substantially as set forth.
5. The loop-hook, a shaft to which said hook is secured, a pinion fixed on said
shaft, a fixed rack with which said pinion engages, a vibratory support for said shaft
and mechanism substantially as described for imparting intermittent vibratory
motions to said shaft-support, and intermittently reciprocating movements thereto in
the line of the axis of said shaft, substantially as set forth.
6. The needle-bar-holder having a hollow hub thereon on which is a laterally
extending arm, a rock-shaft passing through said hub and supporting said holder, a
cam-lever hung on said shaft having parallel arins thereon extending on opposite
sides of said laterally extending arm and having an adjustable interlocking
engagement therewith, and a revolving cam engaging with said cam-lever whereby
vibratory motions are imparted to said needle-holder, combined and operating
substantially as set forth.
7. The vibrating needle-bar-holder, a pending cam-lever hung on the frame of the
machine, a cam rotating in engagement with said lever, a throw-adjusting arm
pivoted on said holder and having its free end engaged by, and adjustable towards
and from the pivot-stud of said cam-lever, and means substantially as described for
adjusting said lever, combined and operating substantially as set forth.
8. The needle-bar-holder having a needle-bar groove therein and a slot in the
base of said groove, combined with a needle-bar operating in said groove and having
a pin thereon extending through said slot, a rotating cam, a cam-lever having an
arm engaging said pin, and a second arm engaging said cam, and a shaft supporting
said cam-lever, substantially as set forth.
9. The button-clamp, the button-ejecting lever pivoted thereon, having one end
extending inwardly to the base of said recess, and a spring bearing on said lever
inside of its pivot, combined and operating substantially as set forth.
10. The hollow shaft 35, having a slot therethrough, the button-clamp fixed on
said shaft, the button-gate fixed on shaft 33, within shaft 35, a pinion 38, located,
and having a limited oscillating movement on said hollow shaft and secured to said
button-gate shaft by a screw passing through said slot, a frictionally-acting retaining
spring bearing on said hollow shaft, and mechanism substantially as described,
engaging with said pinion whereby it is given intermittently reciprocating motions,
combined and operating substantially as described
11. In combination, the vibrating needle-bar holder, the arm, 53, pivoted thereon
having a worm-segment thereon, a worm-shaft engaging with said segment, the

page_text: pivoted cam-lever 56, and a cam operating to swing said lever, substantially as set
forth.
.
12. The combination with the slotted presser-foot 27, of a thread-cutter 31,
secured thereto having a cutting edge extending across said slot, substantially as set
forth.
13. The needle-bar-holder 51, having the laterally extending arm w, on the hub
thereof, the shaft J, passing through said hub, the spring 52, engaging under said
arm and the regulating screw, engaging the upper side thereof, combined and
operating substantially as set forth.
14. In a machine for sewing shank buttons to fabric, a button-trough, a button-
gate having an intermittently reciprocating rotary motion under the end of said
trough, a button-clamp supported at, and having a movement towards and from one
end of said gate and moving therewith, combined with an intermittently and
reciprocally rotating, and endwise moving loop-hook having prongs thereon for
successively engaging the several loops of thread carried by the needle, a thread-
carrying needle having an endwise reciprocating and vibratory movement between
said button-gate and clamp and the end of said loop-hook, mechanism substantially
as described, for rotating said gate and clamp, and for imparting said movements to
said loop-hook and to said needle, substantially as set forth.
15. In a machine for sewing shank buttons to fabric, a thread-carrying needle, a
button-clamp holding a button near said needle, a rotating loop-hook engaging the
thread carried by said needle and drawing a loop therefrom at the side of said
clamp, combined with a lever pivoted thereon having its inner end reaching under
said button, and mechanism substantially as described for opening said clamp and
imparting a vibratory motion to said lever whereby its said inner end is moved
against said button, thereby ejecting the same from said clamp and throwing it
through said loop, and for rotating said loop-hook, substantially as set forth.
Dated this Thirteenth day of October 1890.
WALTER ELLIS BENNETT.
Haseltine, Lake & Co.,
45, Southampton Buildings, London, Agents for the Applicant.