Improvements in or connected with Woven and Ornamented Fabrics, and Looms for Producing them.
Year: 1895

page_text: Date of Application, 15th July, 1895
Complete Specification Left, 15th Apr., 1996-Accepted, 13th June, 1896
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in or connected with Woven and Ornamented Fabrics,
and Looms for Producing them.
I LOUIS VEYRON of 21 Boulevard Poissonniere Paris in the Republic of
France do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to improvements in or connected with looms and consists
in combining therewith means whereby plain weaving and figuring or embroidering
can be effected simultaneously that is both the figuring or embroidering and the
foundation or ground of whatever kind such as those produced by plain Jacquard
or gauze weaving may be produced at the same time and by means of the same
Icom no matter what may be the design of the figuring or embroidery and without
the need of special cards or supplementary shoots of the woof or weft.
I will describe the said invention as applied to a loom weaving with Jacquard
mechanism from which also its other applications will be understood.
The warp threads can be led from the warp beam and the throwing of the
shuttles and the beating up be effected in the ordinary way, and the Jacquard
apparatus may also operate in the usual way.
According to this invention there is used in combination with the loom a series
of thin blades or plates situated above the weft in front of the comb or reed and
sliding in guides which keep them apart and which are fixed to the arms of the
battens of the loom. These plates can be displaced horizontally by means of cams
hereinafter described or by any other equivalent means the amount of movement
being capable of variation. Holes are formed in the said plates for the passage
of needles (varying in number according to the design of the embroidery or
pattern to be produced) their points turning downwardly towards the warp and
each being pierced with a hole or eye through which passes the pattern or
embroidery thread fed from a roller and passing over a guide roller to the said
needles. The number of these rollers carrying the pattern or embroidery thread
corresponds with that of the needle blades."
All the needles for the same blade are fixed to a corresponding bar there being
as many bars as there are blades and each bar being suspended at each of its ends
to two cords one being used for lowering and the other for raising. The lowering
cords are each connected to a needle or hook of the Jacquard mechanism whilst
the raising cords are wound on a roller connected by a cord wound on a drum
keyed on the driving shaft of the Jacquard mechanism. The winding or rolling
up of the cords for raising is such that when the Jacquard mechanism is in
operation the said cords are unwound setting free all the needles and permitting
those of the lowering.cords under the influence of the Jacquard mechanism to
liberate their corresponding needles which then pass through the warp together
with the embroidery or pattern threads which they carry.
The horizontal displacement of the blades and consequently of the needles can
be caused to take place at the proper time and in the right direction by means of
cams of a configuration suitable to the design to be produced and which are
arranged at one of the ends of the said blades operating on them end wise through
the intervention of a roller or the like. A spring of any suitable kind ensures
constant contact between the blades and their corresponding cams.
The cams

page_text: which correspond in number to the blades are keyed on a shaft provided with a
suitable pawl and ratchet wheel the lever carrying the pawl being connected by a
cord or in any other suitable manner to the drum of the Jacquard driving shaft or
any other like part fixed on the said shaft. This last mentioned cord is kept
constantly in tension by a spring. The shaft carrying the cams and pawl and
ratchet wheel constituting the regulating device are supported on one of the arms
of a batten and move with it.
The parts supporting the said shaft also support one of the ends of the blades
which are supported in a similar manner at their other ends. The guide pieces for
the said blades can be adjusted vertically on the arms of the batten.
The rollers carrying the pattern or embroidery threads are subjected to a
suitable tension which can be slackened when the needles carrying the threads
pass through the warp. This tension may be provided for each roller by means of
a cord with a counter weight or in other manner and the loosening or slackening
of this tension may be obtained for each roller by means of a second cord
connected to the Jacquard mechanism and operated thereby winding up on the
said roller and provided with a counter-weight and a stop for stopping its
downward movement.
When the Jacquard mechanism does not affect the said second cords the rollers
are subjected to the tension of the first named counterweighted cords and the
embroidery or pattern threads are placed in tension, but when the Jacquard
mechanism operates the said second cords, the latter break the tension of the first.
named counterweighted cords causing the cylinder to turn and the desired amount
of thread to be delivered or fed out, at the times at which the needles pass into
the warp and this is obtained by the cards of the Jacquard mechanism which in
addition to the ordinary perforations have perforations for the operation of the
needles and the slackening or releasing as aforesaid.
In addition to the embroidering or pattern mechanism already described the
batten may carry an auxiliary comb or reed in front of the plane of the needles
for protecting the latter, whose teeth when engaged in the warp serve as guides
for the shuttle carrying the weft thread. This auxiliary comb is controlled by
springs which tend to withdraw it from the weft so as to permit of the pattern or
embroidery threads being carried by their needles in one direction or the other,
the said auxiliary comb or reed is suspended by cords attached to the aforesaid
drum of the shaft driving the Jacquard mechanism which by winding them up
raises or lifts the said auxiliary comb or reed a little in front of or before the
throw of the shuttle, or the said auxiliary comb or reed may be raised by any
other suitable means.
The apparatus is operated in the following manner :-
The Jacquard mechanism is caused to operate on the warp threads in the
ordinary manner so as to produce the foundation or back of the fabric, the
embroidery or pattern needles being set free by the said mechanism, pass by their
own weight through the warp, taking their threads with them, the tension of the
latter being slackened so as to allow the necessary amount to be taken. The
auxiliary comb or reed then passes through the said warp and the shuttle is thrown
across through the path thus opened for its thread which thus engages at the back
of the fabric all the pattern or embroidery threads of the needles which have
passed therethrough. When the pedal is released the Jacquard mechanism stops
working and the needles which had passed through the fabric are raised and the
regulating pawl and ratchet wheel operate the cams which cause or allow the
blades to move laterally so as to bring the pattern or embroidery needles into
the fresh position which they must occupy above the warp. These movements are
repeated at each operation.
When the cams have completed one revolution the pattern is finished and starts
again. The form and arrangement of the cam surfaces will depend both on the
subject of the design and the length which it is desired to occupy on the fabric.

page_text: Thus the weaving of the groundwork of the fabric and of the patterns or
embroidery thereon are accomplished simultaneously in the same time as that
occupied in ordinary weaving. The patterns or embroideries are formed in one
with the fabric proper and their threads are perfectly united therewith and
whatever be the size of the patterns to be used a good result can always be
obtained.
The fabrics obtained in the herein before described manner differ from those
which have been obtained hitherto and the effects produced are perfectly new.
The dimensions and forms of the various parts of the mechanism herein before
described may vary according to the nature of the loom to which they are applied
and the invention is not limited to the exact number of the blades or of the needles
which they carry and the number of rollers carrying the pattern or embroidery
threads. The longitudinal displacement of the blades, the rise and fall of the
needles, the tension and slackening of the threads and the manner of raising the
auxiliary comb for guiding the shuttle while the needles pass through the warp
may be accomplished in any convenient way, the invention not being limited to the
precise details described.
Dated this 15th day of July 1905
JOHNSONS & WILLCOX,
47 Lincoln's Inn Fields, London, W.C., Agents for the Applicant.
Improvements in or connected with Woven and Ornamented Fabrics,
and Looms for Producing them.
I LOUIS VEYRON of 21 Boulevard Poissonnière Paris in the Republic of France
do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to
be performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:-
This invention relates to improvements in or connected with looms and consists
in combining therewith means whereby plain weaving figuring or embroidering
can be effected simultaneously that is both the figuring or embroidery and the
foundation or ground of whatever kind such as those produced by plain Jacquard
or gauze weaving may be produced at the same time and by means of the same loom
no matter what may be the design of the figuring or embroidery and without the
need of special cards or supplementary shoots of the woof or weft.
I will describe my said invention as applied to a loom weaving with Jacquard
mechanism with reference to the accompanying drawings from which also its other
applications will be understood.
Figure 1 is a front view of a loom provided with my special mechanism.
Figure 2 is a longitudinal vertical section of the same.
Figure 3 is a horizontal section taken at the level of the comb of the lay or batten.
Figures 45 & 6 shew detail views of my improved mechanism.
a are the warp threads, b are the heddles operated by the Jacquard mechanism A
situated at the upper part of the loom, c is the comber board for the heddles b;
d is the comb through which pass the warp threads a. the lower part being fixed to
the rear of the lay or batten e; f and f' are the shuttle boxes fixed to the ends of
the battens e, and g is the roller over which the fabric passes before being wound
on the front cloth beam h.
The warp threads a can be led from the warp beam and the throwing of the
shuttles and the beating up be effected in the ordinary way and the Jacquard
apparatus A may also operate in the usual manner.
According to this invention there is used in combination with a loom such for
example as I bave described, a series of thin blades or plates i situated above the

page_text: weft in front of the comb or reed d and sliding in guides which keep them apart
and which are fixed to the arms of the battens of the loom. These plates can be
displaced horizontally by means of cams hereinafter described or by any other
equivalent means the amount of movement being capable of variation. Holes are
formed in the said plates for the passage of needles j (varying in number according
to the design of the embroidery or pattern to be produced) their points turning
downwardly towards the warp and each being pierced with a hole or eye through
which passes the pattern or embroidery thread a fed from a roller and passing
over a guide roller m to the said needles. The number of these rollers carrying
the pattern or embroidery thread corresponds with that of the needle blades.
All the needles for the same blade are fixed to a corresponding har 61 there
being as many bars as there are blades and cach bar being suspended at each of
its ends to two cords m¹ m² one being used for lowering and the other for raising:
The lowering cords m¹ are each connected to a needle or hook of the Jacquard
mechanism A whilst the raising cords m² are wound on a roller M, connected by a
cord M wound on a drum B keyed on the driving shaft C of the Jacquard
mechanism A. The winding or rolling up of the cord M' is such that when the
Jacquard mechanism is in operation the cords m² are unwound setting free all the
needles and permitting those of the lowering cords m¹ under the influence of
the Jacquard mechanism to liberate their corresponding needles which then pass
through the warp together with the embroidery or pattern threads which they
carry.
The horizontal displacement of the blades i and consequently of the needles j
can be caused to take place at the proper time and in the right direction by means
of cams n of a configuration suitable to the design to be produced which are
arranged at one of the ends of the said blades and operate on them end wise
through the intervention of a roller or the like. A spring r of any suitable kind
ensures constant contact between the blades and their corresponding cams.
cams n which correspond in number to the blades are keyed on a shaft provided
with a suitable pawl and ratchet wheel o the lever o carrying the pawl being
connected by a cord p or in any other suitable manner to the drum B of the
Jacquard driving shaft or any other like part fixed on the said shaft C.
This last mentioned cord p is kept constantly in tension by a spring ».
The
The shaft carrying the cams and pawl and ratchet wheel constituting the
regulating device are supported on one of the arms of a batten and move
with it.
The parts supporting the said shaft also support one of the ends of the blades i
which are supported in a similar manner at their other ends. The guide pieces ¹
for the said blades can be adjusted vertically on the arms of the batten.
The rollers carrying the pattern or embroidery threads are subjected to a
suitable tension which can be slackened when the needles carrying the threads
pass through the warp. This tension may be provided for each roller by means
of a cord 9 with a counterweight ql or in other manner and the loosening or
slackening of this tension may be obtained for each roller by means of a second
cord u connected to the Jacquard mechanism and operated thereby winding up on
the said roller and provided with a counterweight u' and a stop u² for stopping its
downward movement.
When the Jacquard mechanism does not affect the said cords u the rollers are
subjected to the tension of the first named counterweighted cords and the
embroidery or pattern threads a are placed in tension; but when the Jacquard
mechanism operates the said second cords u the latter break the tension of the
cords 9, causing the cylinder to turn and the desired amount of thread to be
delivered or fed out, at the times at which the needles pass into the warp and this
is obtained by the cards of the Jacquard mechanism which in addition to the
ordinary perforations for the formation of the fabric have perforations for the
operation of the needles and the slackening or releasing as aforesaid.
In addition to the embroidering or pattern mechanism already described the batten e

page_text: may carry an auxiliary comb or reed s in front of the plane of the needles ; for
protecting the latter, whose teeth when engaged in the warp serve as guides for the
shuttle carrying the weft thread.
This auxiliary comb s is controlled by springs which tend to withdraw it from
the weft so as to permit of the pattern or embroidery threads being carried by
their needles in one direction or the other; the said auxiliary comb or reed is.
suspended by cords t, attached to the aforesaid drum B of the shaft C driving the
Jacquard mechanism which by winding them up raises or lifts the said auxiliary
comb or reeds a little in front of or before the throw of the shuttle, or the sail.
auxiliary comb or reed may be raised by any other suitable means.
The apparatus is operated in the following manner: -
The Jacquard mechanism set in motion for example by a pedal is caused to
operate on the warp threads in the ordinary manner so as to produce the foundation
or back of the fabric; the embroidery or pattern needles; being set free by the
said mechanisin pass by their own weight through the warp taking their threads.
with them the tension of the latter being slackened so as to allow the necessary
amount to be taken. The auxiliary comb or reeds then passes through the said
warp and the shuttle is thrown across through the path thus opened for its thread
which thus engages at the back of the fabric all the pattern or embroidery threads
of the needles which have passed therethrough. When the pedal is released the
Jacquard mechanism stops working and the needles which had passed through the
fabric are raised and the regulating pawl and ratchet wheel operate the cams n
which cause or allow the blades i to move laterally so as to bring the pattern or
embroidery needles into the fresh position which they must occupy above the warp..
These movements are repeated at each operation.
When the cams have completed one revolution the pattern is finished and starts.
again. The form and arrangement of the cam surfaces will depend both on the
subject of the design and the length which it is desired to occupy on the fabric.
Thus the weaving of the ground work of the fabric and of the patterns or
embroidery thereon are accomplished simultaneously and in the same time as that
occupied in ordinary weaving. The patterns or embroideries are formed in one
with the fabric proper and their threads are perfectly united therewith, and
whatever be the size of the patterns to be used a good result can always be
obtained.
The fabrics obtained in the herein before described manner differ from those
which have been obtained hitherto and the effects produced are perfectly new.
The dimensions and forms of the various parts of the mechanism hereinbefore
described may vary according to the nature of the loom to which they are applied
and the invention is not limited to the exact number of the blades or of the needles.
which they carry and the number of rollers carrying the pattern or embroidery
threads. The longitudinal displacement of the blades, the rise and fall of the
needles the tension and slackening of the threads and the manner of raising the
auxiliary comb for guiding the shuttle while the needles pass through the warp
may be accomplished in any convenient way, the invention not being limited to the
precise details described.
Having now particularly described the nature of my said invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I claim is :-
1. In combination with a loom for weaving, a mechanism formed of needles
capable of a vertical and horizontal movement fed by special threads for embroidery
so as to form any suitable foundation or fabric and at the same time to figure or
embroider on the said fabric any desired pattern or design of embroidery
substantially as herein before set forth.
2. As a mechanism which can be combined with a loom for weaving so as to
effect weaving and embroidering simultaneously the arrangement on the batten of
the loom of blades constituting guides for the needles capable of being displaced
longitudinally by means of cams or other like mechanism operated by a pawl and

page_text: .
ratchet wheel or of any suitable regulating device carried on the said batten and
put into action, substantially as herein before described.
3. In looms for weaving and embroidering simultaneously the combination of
blades i capable of being displaced longitudinally and of embroidering needles j
with an arrangement for suspending the said needles formed of two sets of cords the
one depending on the Jacquard mechanism for causing a certain number of needles
to be operated and the other set for raising the needles, and rollers carrying the
embroidery threads also in dependence on the Jacquard mechanisin so as to slacken
the threads when the needles make their downward stroke the whole operating in
the manner and for the purpose substantially as described with reference to the
accompanying drawings.
4. In looms for embroidering simultaneously with the formation of the fabric the
combination of blades i capable of longitudinal displacement and of embroidering
needles with an auxiliary comb or reed s for guiding the shuttle and protecting
the said needles, when they have passed through the warp, the said comb or reed s
only engaging in the warp threads when the shuttle is thrown and consequently
having no action on the embroidery threads when the blades are displaced
longitudinally substantially as herein before described with reference to the
accompanying drawings.
5. The general arrangement and combination of parts constituting a loom for
weaving and embroidering or figuring simultaneously, substantially as hereinbefore
described with reference to the accompanying drawings.
6. As a new article of manufacture an embroidered or figured fabric in which
the embroidering is obtained simultaneously with the weaving of the foundation of
the fabric, the embroidery threads being united with the warp threads by the weft
thread substantially as described.
Dated this 15th day of April 1896.
JOHNSONS & WILLCOX,
47 Lincoln's Inn Fields, London, W.C., Agents.