Buttons and Button Fasteners.
Year: 1896

page_text: Date of Application, 28th July, 1816-Accepted, 29th Aug., 1895
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Buttons and Button Fasteners.
I HERMAN KERNGOOD citizen of the United States of America, Manufacturer,
residing at 611 Monroe Street, Baltimore, Maryland, U.S.A. do hereby declare the
nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
My invention relates to fastening devices for garments, such as buttons and the
mode of constructing the same; also the devices for attaching the buttons to a
garment without sewing. Such buttous are also used for waist band fasteners,
corset clasps, glove fasteners and clasps for pocket books and other analogous
uses.
The special feature of my invention consists of various forms of blanks and
modes of folding the same; studs and buttons attached to the fastening devices
and means for securing the fastening device without sewing.
Referring to the drawings
Figure 1 is the form of the blank ns cut from a sheet of metal and used for the
purpose of making a stud such as is shown in Figures 4 and 5.
Figure 2 is the same blank after it has been through the first operation showing
the lateral arms folded into a semi-circle and the top projection slightly bent over.
Figure 3 shows two of these blanks back to back.
Figure 4 shows the same two with a cap clinched upon the tops of the blanks.
Figure 5 is a vertical section of the stud shown in Figure 4 clinched through a
piece of material.
Figure 6 is a blank similar to that shown in Figure 1, except that the top portion
is the same width at the top as at the base.
Figure 7 shows the same blank with the lateral arms folded into a semi-circle.
Figure 8 is a plan view of a button designed to be attached to a garment
by means of my fastening device, having a slot in the center through which the
vertical projection of the blank passes.
Figure 9 is a vertical section of the button.
Figure 10 is a vertical elevation of two of the fasteners shown in Figure 7.
Figure 11 is a vertical section of the button having the two fastening devices
inserted through its slot, the vertical section of a clinching cap above the ends of
the fastening device.
Figure 12 is a vertical section of the same showing the clinching cap in position
clinched upon the top of the fastening device.
Figure 13 is a plan view of the fastening device shown in Figure 10.
Figure 14 is a plan view of the spur cap, designed to secure the button to a
fabric.
Figure 15 is a vertical section of the button as secured to a fabric.
Figure 16 is a cross section of the clinching tool by which the button is secured
to the fabric.
Figures 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22 and 23 show modified forms of constructing
the blank used as a button fastener.
Figures 17 and 18 show two positions of the spurs and ears for fastening
the cap.
Figure 19 shows the blank from which Figure 23 is derived.
Figures 20 and 21 show the blauk illustrated in Figure 17 with the spurs beat
back upon the upper portion of the blank. In Figure 20 the edge is flat. In
Figure 21 a curved edge is flared.

page_text: DDR of Figure 21 roned into a cylinder, the spurs being in
the center.
Figure 25 shows this form of fastening device with a two piece button secured
to the top and the spurs passed through a fabric and clinched on the back side.
Figure 27 shows the form of fastener shown in Figure 23 with a button applied
to the top and the spurs clinched through a fabric.
Figure 24 shows another form of blank designed to be rolled into the shape
shown in Figure 26.
Figure 28 shows the manner in which this form of blank is secured to a button
and the button to a fabric. These parts when clinched together, will assume
substantially the same attitude as the part shown in Figure 15.
Referring to Figure 1, the blank there shown is shaped like a cross, with two
lateral arms 1 and 2; a vertical ear 3 which in this blank is flared and curved
at the top, and a spur 4 which is pointed.
Referring to Figure 2. The first operation performed in making the button
is to fold the arms 1 and 2, together to form a semi-circle; the ear 3 is
slightly bent over toward the semi-circle. In this form the parts come from the
machine.
Figure 3 shows two of these fasteners back to back. Figure 4 shows the same
parts as are shown in Figure 3 with a cap 5, clinched upon the ears. The operation
of clinching this cap upon the top causes the ears 3-3 to be bent down into
a horizontal position as shown in Figure 5 and the cap 5 is closely clinched
upon them and down upon the shank 6, formed by the folding together of the
arms 1 and 2. The spurs 4-4 are first passed through the fabric 7 and then
clinched on the back side, preferably over a washer or ring 8. The stud formed
in this way, is a good one for glove fasteners, corset fasteners, waist band fasteners
and the like.
Figure 6 shows a blank used particularly for fastening buttons, such as are used
for pantaloons; it may be used with a one-piece button, as it is called, made
of steel or other material. The arms 1 and 2 and the spur 4 are similar in shape
to those in Figure 1. The ear 9 at the top, however, is different in shape; it is
not flared but is the same size at the top as at the base.
Figure 7 shows the blank of Figure 6 with the arms 1 and 2 beut toward
one another to form a semi-circle.
Figure 8 shows one of the forms of the button 10 which I prefer to use with my
fastening device. It has in the center a depression 11, and in the center of the
depression a rectangular slot 12.
Figure 9 is a vertical section of the button 10. Figure 10 shows two of
the blanks shown in Figure 7 back to back and in position to be inserted through
the rectangular slot 12 in the button 10. The arms 1 and 2 of the blank
being folded into. a semi-circle on each side when placed together, form the
shank 13-13. Figure 11 shows the ears 9-9 passed through the slot 12 in the
button 10 and slightly separated at the top so as to spread when pressure is applied
under the cap. 14 is a cap shown in this figure in vertical section. It has an
opening in the bottom large enough to admit the flared ears 9-9 and is of such a
size as to fit into the depression 11 in the center of button 10. When the cap 14
is placed upon the ears 9-9 and pressure is applied to the top of it, those
ears will he spread apart inside of the cap and the button, shank and the cap will
be securely clinched together. Figure 14 is a top view of the cap 15 used
for receiving and clinching the spurs 4-4 of the button when it is fastened to
a fabric. The spurs 4-4 are passed through the fabric having been first slightly
spread apart. The cap 14 has two apertures, one in the top 16 and one in
the bottom 17. Figure 16 is a clinching die upon which the cap 15 fits. In its
center is a cone 18 of a size suitable to pass through the hole 17 in the cap 15 and
serve as a spreader for the ends of the spurs 4-4.
Referring to Figures 17 and 18; they show blanks cut from a sheet of metal
having a body 19, a curved upper edge 20 which is slitted to permit the edge to

page_text: be flared out. They have ears 21-21-21 on the lower edge, and spurs 22--22.
Figure 18 shows the same structure with the parts differently arranged, but not
differing in function. To use the blank shown in Figure 17 for instance, the
spurs 22-22 are bent back upon the body part 19 in the manner shown in
Figure 20 and the slitted edge 20 of the body 19 is flared out in the manner shown
in Figures 21 and 22. The flare of the edge 20 is also shown in Figure 22, in
which the blank is shown rolled into a cylindrical form with the two spurs 22-22
back to back in the center. Figure 23 shows the form of blank illustrated in
Figure 19 with the spurs 23-23 bent back upon the body part 19 at a point
beyond their juncture with the body part equal to the length of the ears 21-21 in
Figure 17. The over-lapping portion 24-24 of the spurs 23-23 which project
above the body part 19 constitute the ears by which the button is secured to the
shank. 25 is the shank formed by rolling the body part 19 upon itself, enclosing
the spurs 22-22 or 23-23. Figure 25 shows the application of the shank 25 as
illustrated in Figure 22 to the fastening of a button. 26 is a button formed of two
parts; the lower part 27 having an aperture in the center large enough to admit
the passage of the ears 21-21 which may be clinched over on the interior of said
aperture. The cover of the button is then put on by clinching it over the top of
the plate 27. The spurs 22-22 are passed through a fabric or other material and
clinched on the back side either with or without a washer. The flared edge 20 of
the shank 25 rests upon the surface of the fabric or other material and forms a
better support for the shank than would be afforded without it. Figure 24 shows
still another form of a blank embodying the same idea. It is made in the form of
the letter H having two side bars 28-28 and a cross bar 29. It may be folded
into the form shown in Figure 26 in which the spurs 28-28 occupy a central
position inside of a shank formed by the portion 29 and serve to receive a cap and
secure a button in place in a manner similar to that shown in Figure 15. Figure 28
shows the various parts and the means of attaching a button similar to button 10-
with this kind of a blank. 14 is a button fastening cap, 10 the button. 30-30 are
the button fastening ears. 29 the button shank. 28-28 the spurs. 15 the spur
covering and clinching cap and 16 the clinching die. In each construction the
neck and shank, the ears and spurs are integral and constitute only one piece of
metal to form a complete fastening device for a button. The button provided with
a fastener is applied to a garment by a suitable implement or press which
facilitates the passage of the spurs through the fabric and separates the spurs,
bends them laterally and presses them down firmly behind the fabric or into the
elinching cap.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed 1 declare that what I
claim is:
1. A button fastener consisting of a cylindrical neck or shank, ears for connecting
the fastener to a button and spurs within, integral with the neck and extending
through the neck.
2. A button fastener consisting of a cylindrical neck or shank flared outwardly
at its lower end to form an extended base, cars for securing the fastener to a button
and spurs extending through the neck for securing the button to a garment, said
neck, cars and spurs all being integral.
3. A button fastener consisting of a cylindrical neck or shank and spurs bent
back upon themselves and extending through the neck.
4. A button fastener consisting of a cylindrical neck or shank, ears extending
above the neck and spurs within and extending below the neck, the neck ears
and spurs being integral.
5. A button fastener consisting of a cylindrical neck or shank flared outwardly
at its lower end, ears at the upper end of the neck and spurs within and
extending below the neck, the neck, ears and spurs being integral, in combination
with a button having perforations with which said spurs engage.

page_text: 6. A stud provided with a head, a cylindrical shank having ears upon which
said head is attached and spurs integral with and extending down from the
center of the shank of the stud.
. 7. A stud having a cylindrical shank formed of two pieces, each having arms
bent into semi-cylindrical form, ears extending into the head of the stud and
spurs integral with and extending down from the center of the shank.
8. A button provided with means for attaching it to a garment consisting of
a cylindrical neck on the underside of the button, ears integral with the neck
and extending through the button, a head or cap engaging said ears and
clamping the button between the neck and the head and separable spurs extending
below said neck.
9. A button provided with means for attaching it to a garment, consisting of
a cylindrical neck under the button, ears integral with the neck and extending
through the button, a head or cap engaging the upper side of the button and
clamping the button between the neck and the head and separable spurs in the
center and extending below said neck.
10. A button provided with means for attaching it to a garment, consisting of
a cylindrical neck under the button, ears integral with the neck and extending
through the button, a head or cap engaging the upper side of the button and
clamping the button between the neck and the bead and separable, spurs extending
below said neck, in combination with a shell having an annular inwardly projecting
flange.
11. A button provided with means for attaching it to a garment, consisting of a
cylindrical neck under the button, ears integral with the neck and extending
through the button, a head or cap engaging the ears and the upper side of the
button and clamping the button between the neck and the head and separable
spurs extending below said neck, in combination with a shell having an annular
inwardly projecting flange and a conical center.
Dated the 28th day of July 1896