IMPROVEMENTS IN STUDS, STUD-BUTTONS, AND SOLITAIRES.
Year: 1867

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Laurentius Andreas Waldemar Lund, of Chandos
Street, Saint Martin's, in the County of Middlesex, for the Invention of
"IMPROVEMENTS IN STUDS, STUD-BUTTONS, AND SOLITAIRES.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Laurentius Andreas
Waldemar Lund at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with
his Petition, on the 14th December 1867.
I, LAURENTIUS ANDREAS WALDEMAR LUND, of Chandos Street, Saint
Martin's, in the County of Middlesex, do hereby declare the nature of the
said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN STUDS, STUD-BUTTONS, AND SOLITAIRES," to
be as follows:
This Invention relates to certain improvements in the manufacture and
con-truction of studs, stud-buttons, and solitaires, the exposed surfaces being
formed of pearl, ivory, jet, Irish bog oak, coral, tortoiseshell, horn, vulcanite,
wood, nut, vegetable ivory, bone, or other organic substance, animal or
vegetable; or of glass, or porcelain, or artificial compounds, in any combina-
tion of such substances or materials, and also of enamelled metal, and metal
forming a portion of the internal construction for the purpose of combining
with the other materials and sirengthening the same.

page_text: I propose firstly to make the stem or pillar of the stud or other article of a
tubular form, and to insert through the same a metallic pin or tube, either
plain or screwed, which forms the attachment of the different portions of the
stud. The pin tube or screw pin may have a head or enlargement at one
end, and may first be passed through the base or internal disc of the stud,
then through the pillar, tube, or stem, and be screwed into any portion
forming the head of the stud, or part thereof, by which means the whole is
tightened and fixed to form a solid stud; or a metallic eyelet may be burred
in the centre of the disc of the stud and a screw thread cut therein to receive
the pin, tube, or screw pin, or the pin may be tapped or soldered to the eyelet
without a screw thread. The pin tube or screw pin may also be formed
without an enlargement and may be tapped or soldered at the base after its
insertion in the base plate or disc and pillar, and a burr or enlargement
consequently formed thereon, whereby the stem is secured to the disc.
Another method of fixing the pin tube or screw pin is by cutting the
screw thread throughout the entire length of the pin, and by forming a
countersunk space in the base of the stud, a screw nut may be turned on the
pin, the surface of such nut being within that of the base of the stud. In
these examples the metallic surface of the base of the pin, howover secured,
may be enamelled to prevent metallic contact with the body of the wearer or
with the garment. The hollow pillar or stem may be formed of any of the
materials already mentioned, or it may be of metal enamelled, in which ense
the pin, tube, or screw pin would be coated for a portion of its length with
enamel to correspond with the length of the pillar between the head and base
of the stud, leaving the other portions free to secure the other parts of the
stud. Or the back and front of the metallic portion of the stud may be
enamelled and the other part left; or the pillar and base may be formed in
one piece and the other parts secured by the screw pin; so also the head of
the stud and the screw pin, or screw pin and tube or pillar may be formed in
one, and the base afterwards secured thereto; or I may form the entire stud
of metal and afterwards enamel the same; or I may form the back part and
stem or pillar, or the back part alone, in metal, and enamel it or them to
prevent the metal from marking the garment of the wearer, or the skin.
The stem, whether solid or hollow, may also be fixed to the disc by forming
on the stem a hollow cup or disbed metallic head, and by inserting the same
in a dovetail cavity cut in the base or disc of the stud, then by tapping or
pressure on the stem the metallic cup expands and fills the dovetailed cavity
and secures the pin stem or tube thereto. Or the stem may be provided with
a tenoned or T-head or bar either equal to the whole diameter of the stud or

page_text: not, and the disc of the stud being cut with a corresponding dovetail the
tenon of the stem is inserted sideways in the dovetail, and thus secured to the
disc. Or when tortoiseshell, vulcanite, born, or other material is used for
the discs, such material becoming plastic or soft by heat or by other means,
the bar or other projection on the stem may be pressed into the soft disc and
the material moulded thereto, so that when cold and set the stem is firmly
secured to the disc. Or the materials may be softened by other means than by
heat, for instance by a suitable solvent. In general the stem or pillar rests
on the two internal surfaces of the head and base of the sturl, being tightened
thereto by the pin, tube, or screw pin, or the stem may be let into counter-
sunk spaces, but I also propose to secure the two ends of the hollow
pillar by means of clamps or metallic bindings gripping the pillar slightly
within each end to prevent the tendency to split or fly by reason of dampness
or any sudden change of temperature to which the article may be exposed;
these clamps are contained in the head and base of the stud and form parts
thereof. In some cases the projecting screw pin beyond the top of the hollow
stem has a small metallic plate screwed thereon; this plate, in addition to the
screw thread in its centre is cut with two holes or apertures for the purpose of
receiving a key to turn it after the manner of tightening the joint of a drawing
compass, but other means may be employed suitable to the delicacy of the
work. This plate serves to secure a metallic or compound metallic and ivory
or other head, or a metallic head may be burred or soldered on the plate and
screw, whether of gold or silver, or plated, or gilt metal, and the intervening
space may be supplied by paper, solder, ivory, horn, or other suitable material
to form a foundation; or the head may be left hollow if the metal is thick
enough to sustain the pressure. The screw pin or tube is prevented from
being turned to release the parts either by the application of sulder or by
tapping it, or by inserting a small pin through it, or by cutting it and opening
the two sections and bending them outwards and downwards; or a small slot
or channel may be cut on each side of the pin or screw and a forked piece
applied to hold the same, or other convenient means may be used; or a plate
may first be applied to the stem and screw and then the screw plate may be
applied above it to secure it, and on or over these two plates the head of the
stud may be fixed. Jewels or precious stones may be secured to the head of
the stud by forming a burr of metal, gold, or silver, or plated or gilt métal on
the head, and then inserting the stone and chamfering the metallic rim to the
edges of the stone whereby it is secured to the head of the stud; or claws
may be employed extending from the ring in order to set the stone after the
manner of a diamond setting; or crowns may be used or other suitable means

page_text: may be employed. In cases where a square, triangular, or other design forms
the head of the stud or solitaire, or whero a figure or device is arranged and it
is desired to secure the stud from turning after its adjustment I form the
enamelled metal stem or the tubular pillar or exterior stem, or both, of a fint
or oval form, so that when such stem is inserted in the button hole the stud
may be prevented from moving or turning and changing the position of the
hend. A metallic hend may easily be secured to the ivory, pearl, or other
organic head or face of the stud by the projection of the pin, tube, or screw
pin on which the final head of the stud may be screwed, or it may be soldered
to the pin and thus present a flush surface to the plate instead of being burred
or chamfered thereon. Or the head of the stud may be soldered on the
plate fixed to the screw or pin, or the head may be made to surround and
enclose the plate and be soldered thereto. I also make the back of the stud
of enamelled metal, the hollow stem being in all cases of any of the organic
substances mentioned, or glass, or porcelain, or of enamelled metal or other
materials mentioned, but in no case do I use a plain or external surface of
metallic tubular stem or pillar of the stud, although I may use an artificial
compound wherein metal is one of the elements. The stem and disc may be
made in one piece and bored with or without a countersunk space in the
base for the attachment of the screw nut, the metallic pin strengthening
the whole stud, or if the screw nut is not used the other plans of soldering,
tapping, or other means of securing the pin, screw, or screw pin may be
applied. The bead and stem being made in one piece the extremity of the
stem may have an external screw thread which turns into a corresponding
thread in the base of the stud, then the end of the stem is also bored with ur
without a female thread, and a headed screw or pin may be screwed or tapped
therein to prevent the stein of the pin from becoming unscrewed and also to
present an ornamental base; or the stem may be inserted in the disc without
an external screw thread, and then secured by the final screw or tapping. By
these arrangements it will be seen that the stud, stud-button, or solitaire is
formed of several parts and in a variety of ways to suit different designs and
definite size and form, and
purposes; each part can be made separately of a
the studs may be afterwards fitted together to form any design required,
either with metallic heads or with ivory or other organic substance, or with
jewels.

page_text: SPECIFICATION filed in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
and of an Order of the Lord Chancellor, by the said Laurentius Andrens
Waldemar Lund in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 20th June
1868.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, LAURENTIUS
ANDREAS WALDEMAR LUND, of Chandos Street, Saint Martin's in the County
of Middlesex, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Fourteenth day of December, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-seven, in the thirty-first year of
Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto
.me, the said Laurentius Andreas Waldemar Lund, Her special licence that
I, the said Laurentius Andreas Waldemar Lund, my executors, administra-
tors, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Laurentius Andreas Waldeinar.
Lund, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter 'during
the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise,
and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the
Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN STUDS.
STUD-BUTTONS, AND SOLITAIRES," upon the condition (amongst others) that 1,
the said Laurentius Andreas Waldemar Lund, my executors or administrators,
by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and
seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said
Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cansu
the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar
months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
'
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Laurentius Andreas Waldemar Lund,
do hereby declare the nature of my said Invention, and in what manuer the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement:-
My Invention relates to certain improvements in the manufacture and
construction of studs, stud-buttons, and solitaires, the exposed surfaces being
formed of pearl, ivory, jet, stone, Irish bog oak, coral, tortoiseshell, born,
vulcanite, wood, nut, vegetable ivory, bone, or other organic substance, animal
or vegetable, or of glass, or porcelain, or artificial compounds, in any com-
bination of such substance or materials, and also of enamelled metal, and
metal forming a portion of the internal construction for the purpose of
combining with the other materials and strengthening the same. I propose

page_text: firstly, to make the stem or pillar of the stud or other article of a tubular
form, and to insert through the same a metallic pin or tube, either plain or
screwed, which forms the attachment of the different portions of the stud.
The pin tube or screw pin, may have a head or enlargement at one end,
and may first he passed through the base or internal dise of the stud, then
through the pillar tube or stem, and be screwed into any portion forming the
head of the stud, or part thereof; by which means the whole is tightened
and fixed to form a solid stud. Or a metallic eyelet may be burred in the
centre of the disc of the stud, and a screw thread cut therein to receive the
pin tube, or screw pin; or the pin may be tapped or soldered to the eyelet
without a screw thread. The pin tube or scrow pin may also be formed
without an enlargement, and may be tapped or soldered at the base after its
insertion in the base plate or dise and pillar, and a burr or enlargement
consequently formed thereon, whereby the stem is secured to the disc.
Another method of fixing the pin tube or screw pin is by cutting the screw
thread throughout the entire length of the pin and by forming a countersunk
space in the base of the stud, a screw nut may be turned on the pin, the
surface of such nut being within that of the base of the stud. In these
examples the metallic surface of the base of the pin, however secured, may be
enamelled to prevent metallic contact with the body of the wearer, or with
the garment. The hollow pillar or stem may be formed of any of the materials
already mentioned, or it may be of metal enamelled, in which case the pin
tube or screw pin would be coated for a portion of its length with enamel to
correspond with the length of the pillar between the head and base of the stud,
leaving the other portions free to secure the other parts of the stud; or the
back and front of the metallic portion of the stud may be enamelled and the
other part left; or the pillar and base may be formed in one piece, and the
other parts secured by the screw pin, so also the head of the stud and the
screw pin, or screw pin and tube or pillar may be formed in one, and the base
afterwards secured thereto, or I may form the entire stud of metal and
afterwards enamel the same; or 1 may form the back part and stem or pillar
or the back part alone, in metal, and enamel it or them to prevent the metal
from marking the garment of the wearer or the skin; or the back and bollow
stem separately or the whole stud can also be made of cut stone, coral, and
such like material. The stem, whether solid and of metal enamelled, or hollow,
may also be fixed to the disc, by forming on the stem a hollow cup or dishod
metallic head, and by inserting the same in a dovetail cavity cut in the base
or disc of the stud; then by tapping or pressure on the stem, the metallic cup
expands and fills the dovetailed cavity and secures the pin stem or tube

page_text: thereto. Or the stem may be provided with a tenoned or T head or bar
either equal to the whole diameter of the stud or not and the disc of the stud
being cut with a corresponding dovetail, the stem is inserted sideways in the
dovetail and thus secured to the disc. The T would in most cases be attached
to the screw pin and not to the stem unless the stem was enamelled metal.
Or when tortoiseshell, vulcanite, horn, or other material is used for the discs;
such material becoming plastic or soft by heat or by other means, the bar or
other projection on the stem may be pressed into the soft disc and the material
moulded thereto, so that when cold and set the stem is firmly secured to the
disc. Or the materials may be softened by other means than by heat, for
instance by a suitable solvent. In general the stem or pillar rests on the two
internal surfaces of the head and base of the stud, being tightened thereto
by the pin tube or screw pin, or the stem may be. let into countersunk
spaces; but also propose to secure the two ends of the hollow pillar
by means of clamps or metallic bindings, gripping the pillar slightly within
each end to prevent the tendency to split or fly by reason of dampness or
any sudden change of temperature to which the article may be exposed;
these clamps are contained in the head and base of the stud and form parts
thereof. In some cases the projecting screw pin beyond the top of the hollow
stem has a small metallic plate screwed thereon; this plate in addition to the
screw thread in its centre is cut with two holes or apertures for the purpose
of receiving a key to turn it after the manner of tightening the joint of a
drawing compass, but other means may be employed suitable to the delicacy
of the work; this plate serves to secure a metallic or compound metallic and
ivory or other head, or a metallic bead may be barred or soldered on the plate
and screw,
whether of gold or silver, or plated, or gilt metal, and the intervening
space may be supplied by paper, solder, ivory, horn, or other suitable material
to form a foundation, or the head may be left hollow if the metal is thick
enough to sustain the pressure. The screw pin or tube is prevented from
being turned to release the parts either by the application of solder, or by
tapping it, or by inserting a small pin through it, or by cutting it and
opening the two sections and bending them outwards and downwards;
or a small slot or channel may be cut on each side of the pin or screw and a
forked piece applied to hold the same, or other convenient means may be used;
or a plate may first be applied to the stem and screw, and then the screw plate
may be applied above it to secure it, and on or over these two plates the head
of the stud may be fixed. Jewels or precious stones may be secured to the
head of the stud by forming a burr of metal, gold, or silver, or plated, or gilt
metal on the head, and then inserting the stone and chamfering the metallic

page_text: rim to the edges of the stone whereby it is secured to the head of the stud;
or claws may be employed extending from the ring in order to set the stone
after the manner of a diamond setting; or crowns may be used or other
suitable means may be employed. In cases where a square, triangular, or other
design forms the head of the stud or solitaire, or where a figure or device is
arranged, and it is desired to secure the stud from turning after its adjustment,
1 form the enamelled metal stem or the tubular pillar or exterior stem, or both,
of a flat or oval form, so that when such stem is inserted in the button hole
the stud may be prevented from, moving or turning and changing the position
of the head. A metallic head may easily be secured to the ivory, pearl, or
other organic head or face of the stud by the projection of the pin tube or
screw pin on which the final head of the stud may be screwed; or it may be
soldered to the pin, and thus present a flush surface to the plate instead of
being burred or chamfered thereon. Or the head of the stud may be soldered
on the plate fixed to the screw or pin, or the bend may be made to surround
and enclose the plate and be soldered thereto. I also make the back of the
stud of enamelled metal the hollow stem being in all cases of any of the
organic substances mentioned, or glass, or porcelain, or of enamelled metal, or
other materals mentioned, but in no case do I use a plain or external.surface
of metallic tubular stem or pillar of the stud although I may use an artificial
compound wherein metal is one of the elements. The stem and disc may be
made in one piece and bored with or without a countersunk space in the base
for the attachment of the screw nut, the metallic pin strengthening the whole
stud; or if the screw nut is not used, the other plans of soldering, tapping, or
other means of securing the pin screw or screw pin may be applied. The
head and stem being made in one piece the extremity of the stem may have
an external screw thread which turns into a corresponding thread in the base
of the stud, then the end of the stem is also bored with or without a female
thread and a headed screw or pin may be screwed or tapped therein to prevent
the stem of the pin from becoming unscrewed and also to present an
ornamental baso; or the stem may be inserted in the disc without an external
screw thread, and then secured by the final screw or tapping. By these
arrangements it will be seen that the studs, studs buttons, or solitaires aro
formed of several parts, and in a variety of ways to suit different designs and
purposes, each part can be made separately of a definite size and form, and
the studs may be afterwards fitted together to form any design required either
with metallic heads, or with ivory, or other organic substances, or with jewels.
As an example of the method of carrying my said Invention into effect I
annex the accompanying Drawings, which are of an enlarged size and scale,

page_text: shewing a stud composed of a pearl base, ivory stem or pillar, and metallic
pin, with heads either for gold, ivory, or stones, from these examples all
the others herein described will be equally understood.
Fig. 1 shews a vertical section of a stud with a screw pin p projecting from
the head. a, is the pearl base; b, the pillar, the upper part forming the
foundation or sent for the head; c is a washer clamping the parts together.
Fig. 2 shews a similar view with a soldered attachment instead of a screw.
Fig. 3 shews a section of a method for applying precious or other stones
to the head; and Fig. 4 is a plan of the tup shewing the seating. dis a
disc of metal screwed on the pin within the flanged rim e, and the two
holes f, f, in the disc are for fixing the stones by pins or other fastenings;
Fig. 5 shews an elevation of a stud complete with a gold top g, chamfered or
burred under the head which is formed to fit the internal surface of the gold,
and is fixed on the metallic pin or screw. In Fig. 6, e is gold, and g a stone.
In Fig. 7, g' is a cut gem or stone embedded in an ivory bead 9, secured
by gold e; in Fig. 8, 9 is ivory; g', gold surface; i, inserted piece to fill hole
bored in g for reception of washer d. Fig. 9 is the same arrangement with
the addition of stone 9 clamped by gold e over empty space or inserted piece i.
All these examples have burrs or soller on top of pin p.
Having now described the nature of my said Invention and the manner in
which the same is to be performed, I would remark that I do not limit myself
to the exact details and configuration of parts which I have expressed and
shewn, or to the materials mentioned for the purpose of forming the studs or
other such articles, as the same may be varied or modified without in any
degree departing from the principle of my Invention, but what I claim aud
desire to be secured to me by the herein in part recited Letters Patent are,
the general arrangement and combination of parts and their construction
constituting compound studs, stud buttons, and solitaires substantially as
herein specified and partly shewn.
In witness whereof, I, the said Laurentius Andreas Waldemar Lund,
have hereunto set my band and seal, this Tenth day of June, in the
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-eight.
Witness,
JOHN CRISP BORDELL.
Paris.
L. A. WALDEMAR LUND. (L.S.)