IMPROVEMENTS IN METHODS OF AND APPARATUS FOR BEWING AND TRIMMING KNIT GOODS AND OTHER FABRIC AND IN FORMING WELTS OR HEMS THEREIN
Year: 1882

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to John Henry Johnson of 47 Lincoln's Inn Fields in the
County of Middlesex Gentleman for an invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN
METHODS OF AND APPARATUS FOR BEWING AND TRIMMING KNIT GOODS AND
OTHER FABRIC AND IN FORMING WELTS OR HEMS THEREIN 12
A communication
from abroad by Stockton Borton of Philadelphia in the County of Penn-
sylvania and Charles Henry Willcox of New York City in the County and
State of New York United States of America
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said John Henry Johnson at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 28th March 1882.
JOHN HENRY JOHNSON of 47 Lincoln's Inn Fields in the County of Middlesex
Gentleman “IMPROVEMENTS IN METHODS OF AND APPARATUS FOR SEWING AND
TRIMMING KNIT GOODS AND OTHER FARRIO AND IN FORMING WELTS OR HEMS
THEREIN A communication from abroad by Stockton Borton of Philadelphia in
the County of Pennsylvania and Charles Henry Willcox of New York City in the
County and State of New York in the United States of America
"
This Invention is designed more particularly for use in the manufacture of hosiery
underwear and other similar knit goods and is also partly applicable to the sewing
trimming and welting or hemming of other articles and fabrics. It has reference
firstly to a combined sewing and trimming machine operating to trim the edge or
edges of the fabric automatically as the sewing proceeds; Second to a new mode of
sewing knit fabrics. Third to a new mode of forming a welt or hem; Fourth to a
series of guides for guiding a welt or hem to a sewing or combined sewing and
trimming machine Fifth to a tension and thread controlling apparatus for the
upper thread of a lock stitch or single thread of a chain stitch machine; and Sixth
to a feed lock for preventing the length of stitch from being changed except by an
authorized person.
.
By way of example the present improvements may be described as applied to a
Willcox and Gibbs single thread machine making a chain stitch by means of an
D

page_text: eye pointed needle and a looper having a continuous revolution in the same direction
and feeding the work by a four motion feed beneath the cloth plate.
The needle lever may be conveniently operated by an eccentric on the main or
looper shaft through a connecting rod while the framing cloth plate looper and
shaft, the needle bar and needle, the presser bar and the feed movement are
similarly of the ordinary construction.
The improvements will now be described beginning with the trimming attach-
ment and referring more particularly to figures 1, 3, 5 & 6,
According to that part of the Invention relating to the trimming attachment the
cutting is performed by a vibratory cutter operating in connection with a stationary
cutter the two forming a pair of shears. The cutters are placed behind the needle,
the presser foot being cut away in the rear of the needle hole to allow the cutters to
trim the fabric close to the sewing. In some cases the cloth plate may also be cut
away.
To insure the proper dividing of the fabric it is held on both sides of the edges of
the cutters. On one side it is clamped between the presser foot and the cloth
plate and on the other side between a holding finger or device and the cutter.
The holding finger or device is preferably toothed or roughened on the bottom so
as to take firm hold on the fabric. When the feed operates the holding finger or
device is automatically raised so as not to interfere with the free movement of the
fabric by the feed.
The bolding finger or device may according to requirements be fastened to the
presser bar by a set screw or made in one piece with the presser foot or attached
to a rock shaft. When attached to the presser bar or presser foot the holding
finger or device is lifted with it by the feed surface of the ordinary four motion
feed in its rise. When supported independently the holding finger or device is
raised by rocking the shaft as will be hereinafter explained or by other suitable
means.
To improve the action of the shears, the cutter or blade is made capable of a
movement substantially at right angles to the line of cutting and is connected with
a spring arranged to retain the cutting edge in close contact with that of the other
cutter. The movement referred to is not such as the blades of ordinary shears or
scissors have upon their fulcrum but a true line movement so that the cutting
edges are always pressed together with approximately the same force. In order to
still further improve the cutting action for knit goods one of the cutting edges is
made oblique to the line of cutting and the cutter is at each operation of the shears
moved in one direction by the action of the cutting edges against each other in
closing and is returned by the spring when they open. As herein shown an oblique
cutting edge is formed on the stationary cutter and the spring acts upon the rock
shaft which carried the cutter and is capable of a slight endwise, as well as a
vibratory movement.
The rockshaft is supported by a frame under the plate and extends from a point
in close proximity to the presser foot over the edge of the cloth plate. The cutter
is held against the enlarged end of the shaft by a screw and prevented from
turning on said screw by a projection or steady pin.
From the rockshaft at or near the rear or right hand end thereof projects an arm
with which is jointed one end of the link by means of the pin.
This pin has a bearing somewhat longer than the thickness of the link so as to
allow it an endwise movement independent of the latter. The other end of the
link encircles an eccentric on the main shaft of the machine and is held in position
by two collars on said shaft. The stationary cutter or shear blade consists of a bar
or plate on the end of which the cutting edge is formed. This bar or plate is
adjustably secured in position in guides on or in the cloth plate by a set screw so
as to be readily removed for sharpening or other purposes and to be set into contact
with the other cutter as may be required. The cutting edge slightly oblique to the
line of cutting can be easily formed on this plate or bar.
The rock shaft is placed preferably a slight distance above the cloth plate as

page_text: shown in the surface of the stationary cutter being on an incline so that one of the
severed portions is or may be readily fed over the shaft. There are special advan-
tages in this disposition but if desired to have the cloth plate free the said shaft is
placed under the cloth plate. The regulation of the closeness of the cutting or
trimming to the line of stitching can it is obvious be effected by adjusting the frame
work with the two blades or cutters in any ordinary or suitable way nearer to or
further from the needle but it is an improvement to make the frame work
stationary and adjust the blades. The vibratory blade or cutter being held in
contact with the stationary-cutter by the spring it would unless checked follow the
movements of the stationary-cutter at right angles to the line of cutting and by
adjusting the stationary cutter the shears would cut more or less closely to the
line of stitching. In order however to diminish the wear upon the cutters by
confirming their pressure against each other as much as may be to that portion by
which the cutting is to be done (which will be a greater or less distance according
to the length of the feed) an adjustable back stop is placed at the end of the rock
shaft and forms an end bearing therefor except when the cutter and rock shaft are
moved sidewise by the oblique edge of cutter. The back stop is shown as a thumb
or set screw but other adjusting devices may be used, a cam for example. By
turning the screw in one direction the shaft is advanced against the pressure of its
spring; by turning it in the other direction it is moved back by the spring. The
vibratory blade can thus be adjusted with precision when ever required. The
stationary cutter can then be adjusted into contact there with the vibratory blade
being set at its highest point or at the point where it is desired that the cutting
should begin.
The adjustment of the shears is in this invention usually effected in
The rock shaft to which the holding finger or device is fastened has an arm
projecting over the arm of the rock shaft. Connected with the rock shaft is a
spring tending to turn it in the direction to hold the finger in contact with the
stationary, cutter. A spiral torsion spring, surmounting the rock shaft and con-
nected at one end with it and at the other end with the frame, is shown; but a flat
or other suitable form of spring if properly disposed could be used instead. The
end of the arm is so disposed with respect to the arm that as the latter is lifted by
the link and the eccentric on the main shaft of the machine it comes into contact
with said arm and vibrates the rock shaft and relieves the pressure of the holding
finger. As the arm descends the spring forces down the holding finger and the
pressure of the latter on the goods is restored.
this way.
Knit goods when cut have a great tendency to curl at the edges and this
tendency except with a very narrow margin or a wider presser foot than is
desirable is apt to cause the edges to turn over the presser foot and be caught by
the needle. To avoid this difficulty a raised projection around the front of the
needle is employed.
In order to prevent the curled edge of the work from getting under the foot
and from interfering with the action of the shears the toe of the foot is made of
balf-width so that the eurled edge will pass on the side and come into contact with
the lateral projection which will uncurl it sufficiently to prevent interference with
the shears.
In the main feature of hosiery and knit under wear the plan pursued with the
best quality of goods has been to knit the several parts with salvage edges and
unite them with an over seam. With goods of an inferior quality commonly known
as cut hose the expenditure of time and labor involved in this plan has been
avoided by cutting the pieces from a sheet of knit material and stitching them
together on a sewing machine.
Ordinarily a chain stitch machine is employed and the seams which are made
with very long and rather loose stitches say about seven to an inch are formed at
a considerable distance from the edges partly because it is impracticable to sew
very close to the raw edges of knit goods but also and mainly to make a strong
Beam not liable to be destroyed by ravelling at the edge of the fabric. The margin

page_text: thus left outside the seam is very objectionable and detracts from the value of the
goods.
The object of the present improvement relating to this part of the invention is to
unite the layere of cut fabric upon an ordinary sewing machine and at the same
time to do away with this margin which is not only unsightly but also makes the
article uncomfortable to the wearer. To accomplish this object the knit goods is
sewed with a plain seam on an ordinary sewing machine with trimming attachment
(such as the machine herein before described) but instead of using a long stitch the
stitch is made short (or in 'other words it is made about equal to the gauge of the
fabric or not materially greater than said gauge) and the surplus material is
trimmed off close to the seam.
By making the stitches about equal in length to the gauge of the fabric they
enclose only a few threads say one or two corresponding threads on each of the
two edges to be united and being drawn tighter than could be done with a long
stitch they hold the threads firmly so that a margin is unnecessary to secure the
permanence of the seam. The edges can therefore be trimmed as closely as possible
to the seam since so long as the stitches are not cut, its strength is not seriously
impaired. It is not necessary that the stitches should be exactly the gauge of the
fabric. They may be made as much shorter as is practicable but as the speed of
the sewing is diminished by shortening the stitch it is preferable to make them as
near as may be equal in length to the gauge of the fabric. A slight increase beyond
the length is not material. The seam may be made with the lock or other suitable
form of stitch but the chain stitch is preferred because it is elastic and is similar in
its nature to the goods themselves because the loops surround the knit threads
after the fashion of a running noose and thus bind them very tightly and because
the strength and regularity of the seam in itself is less affected than a lock stitch
by the formation of stitches in the interstices of the fabric without the interposition
of the knit threads. The edges being closely trimmed the seam has substantially
the thickness of the rest of the article and there is not the objectionable ridge or
welt formed in the ordinary cut hose.
The improvement in making welts or hems has for its object to make with ease
and rapidity upon an ordinary sewing machine a strong and neat seam which
will be hidden or bent little apparent on the right side and will allow the fabric to
be flat.
The term welt is commonly applied by hosiery manufacturers to the fold at the
top of a stocking which fold in other manufactures such as knit undershirts is
called a hem and the words are employed herein as equivalents.
The fabric is suitably folded and then inserted between the presser foot and
cloth plate of a combined sewing and trimming machine such as herein before
described. The needle is then caused to pass through the layer and the fold in
the body of the fabric. The surplus material in the layer is trimmed off by the
cutters.
No difficulty is encountered in trimming the seam mechanically on account of
one layer only being trimmed as the other layer being folded upon itself is out
of the way of the cutting mechanism.
Welts or hems under this improvement can be made upon a machine having a
needle which is reciprocated laterally to make a zig zag stitch, or upon other
known sewing machines instead of upon a machine making an ordinary plain
seam. Such machines being provided with a suitable trimming attachment.
In sewing the welt or hem the tension is to be so regulated as to allow the
material to flatten out when the sewing is completed.
To make the improved welt or hem industrially guides of suitable construction
are employed.
The folded edge of the fabric is conducted by the guide which has a guiding
edge slightly oblique to the feed movement so as to croud the folded edge towards
the needle. It is detachably fastened by screws or by other suitable means to a
carrier plate itself adjustably supported upon the cloth plate or may be made in one

page_text: piece with the carrier plate. The guide terminates in front of the needle or is
notched for the passage of the needle and can be adjusted so as to bring the end
of the guiding edge in line or nearly in line with the axis of the needle. The folded edge
being released from the guiding edge springs out so that the needle passes through the
thickness of the fold. At the guiding edge is made deeper than at the part
adjacent to the needle hole so as to prevent the folded edge from accidentally
escaping over the top of the guide before said fold passes under the presser foot.
The edge of the layer passes over the top- of guide under the lateral projection
which takes out the curl and then to the cutters which sever the strip on the line.
In order the better to insure the uncurling of the edge a groove is made in the top
of guide to receive the lateral projection which should at the lower edge be flush
with the bottom of the presser foot instead of being away. As the holding finger
or device bears on one layer of the fabric while the presser foot bears on three it
should be properly adjusted on the presser bar in passing from thick goods to thin
or vice versa. The holding finger device may be so constructed and arranged as to
render the adjustment automatic. The part of the guide is preferably carved to
correspond with the toe of the presser foot. The carrier plate and with it the.
folded edge guide are adjusted by means of the handle or lever turning on a screw
that is tapped into the cloth plate. A pin on the carrier plate works in a slot on
the underside of the handle or lever or an eccentric boss on the underside of the
lever or handle works in the hole in the carrier plate so that by turning the handle
or lever the guide may be moved back and forth. A spring washer exerts sufficient
friction on the carrier plate to hold it in the position to which it is adjusted while
allowing said plate to be shifted at will by means of the handle or lever. A welt
or hem can with little care on the part of the operator be made with the folded
edge guide alone, but in order to render the guiding still more mechanical or
automatic a guide is provided for the inside of the fold which keeps the work
against the folded edge guide and is formed by the edge of an arm overhanging
the cloth plate. This arm forms part of the bent strip and serves also as the guide
to regulate the width of the welt or hem being from the extreme point of the edge
to the bend equal to said width.
The strip is attached to a raised portion on the guide and is held in place by the
screw which passes through the guide and is tapped into an arm of said bar and
by ears or lugs which prevent it from moving horizontally. The guiding edge is
curved and the opposite edge of the folded edge guide is cut away or recessed at
concentric therewith so as to leave a curved passage of uniform width between
them. The strip being attached to an elevation, space is left below for the edge of
the material to pass. The position of the guides with respect to each other and to
the needle bar and presser foot of the machine for medium weight goods is shewn
in the drawing that is to say, the extreme points of the folded edge guide and of the
eurved edge guide are in line with each other and lie in the same or approximately
the same vertical plane with the axis of the needle slightly oblique to the direction
of the feed the extreme point of the guide at the rear being just in front of the
needle. For heavier work the carrying plate with the guides will be adjusted the
required distances to the right. It will of course be understood that the guides
are selected with reference to the work to be performed. There is no need of
having the strip adjustable with reference to the guide but if desired the
connection between the parts could be adjustable by having a slot in the
strip.
The guide may be used without the overhanging guide and is then not provided
with the curved recess.
The manner of sewing a welt or hem is as follows:-
The edge of the fabric is folded over to give a hem of the desired width
and leave a margin to be trimmed off. The fold is then inserted under the
overhanging arm around the guide into the bend, leaving the main body of the
goods folded over the guide with the fold against the edge of guide and the free
edge of the fabric projecting over said guiding edge. The machine being started

page_text: Bews through the upper layer of fabric and the fold beneath which is held in
position by the edge of the guide. The surplus material on the free edge is
removed by the trimmer.-The only care required on the part of the operation is
to keep the fabric straight and well into the bend. The curved passage around
the guide allows seams to pass without difficulty while the extension of the upright
on the presser foot takes out the curl in the edge of the fabric.
It is obvious that modifications may be made in the details of construction
without departing from the spirit of the Invention and portions of the latter can
be used separately. For example the guide strip might be used without the other
suitable overhanging guides adapted to enter the fold could be employed but the
same should then be placed in close proximity to the needle and the presser foot
should be adapted to receive it. The curved form of guiding edge would not of
course be required in such case. Instead of having the folded edge guide
supported on the cloth plate it could be carried by the presser foot of the
machine.
The improvement in the tension and the thread controlling apparatus now to be
described has for its object to measure out and deliver to the stitch forming
mechanism the exact amount of thread required for each stitch so that each stitch
will contain the same length of thread and an uniform elastic seam will be the
result without special care or skill on the part of the operator.
The apparatus for accomplishing this result is arranged to act upon the thread
between the take up (formed in the machine shown by the needle bar) and the
spool. It consists of a "pull off" on a vibratory arm which acts upon the thread
between an intermittent clamping tension and a resisting tension. The spool is
placed on a pin or is otherwise supported and the thread is led therefrom around a
bar between discs or washers of the resisting tension over the bar through an eye
in the end of the "pull off" back over the aforesaid bar between the said discs or
washers of the clamping tension thence over the bar again and between discs of a
very light check tension to the take up and eye of the needle. The "pull off" is
fastened to the needle lever by a screw and which may have a spring washer placed
under the head of the screw,
By setting the "pull off" to the right the eye is brought nearer the fulcrum of
the needle lever and consequently it moves through a shorter distance than before
at each vibration of the needle and pulls off a less amount of thread from the
spool whereas by setting it to the left a greater length is pulled off for ench
stitch.
The clamping tension is intermittent in its action. It clamps the thread while
the pull off is drawing thread from the spool through the resisting tension and
then releases the thread to allow the thread drawn off to be delivered freely to the
stitch forming device. An intermittent tension or clamp of any suitable construction
may be used.
The upper tension disc is fixed to a stud and is held against the lower disc by a
spring surrounding the said stud except at intervals when the stud is lifted by an
eccentric rod. This rod at its lower end encircles an eccentric on the main or
looper shaft and at its upper end carries a screw which lifts the aforesaid stud.
The resisting tension may be intermittent in its action like the clamping tension
or any other known or suitable device for producing a hold or tension on the thread
such as weighting the spool passing the thread through a series of eyes and other
well known devices can be used; but a disc tension with discs held together by
spring pressure is preferred. It consists of two tension discs, a screw and a spring.
The screw holds the several parts together and attaches them to the machine franie
and the spring pushes the lower disc upwards against the other disc.
So far as measuring out the thread is concerned the apparatus described is
sufficient but in passing from one piece of goods to another the short chain of
stitches between the pieces would be too loose if all the thread measured at each
stitch were to be worked into it. To prevent this the before mentioned light check
tension is arranged to act upon the thread between the clamping tension and the

page_text: take up.
This check tension is so slight as not to interfere with the delivery of
the stitch forming mechanism of all the thread measured by the pull off so long as
the needle penetrates the fabric but when as in running from one piece to another
several stitches are made outside the fabric the check tension exerts a slight
retarding action on the thread which prevents more than the proper quantity of
thread going into the chain.
Instead of having the check tension entirely separate from the clamping tension
it could be combined, an annular washer surrounding the aforesaid upper tension
disc and being held down by suitable springs.
The terms clamping tension, resisting tension and check tension are used to
distinguish the several tension devices from each other, said terms indicating the
general character or function of the devices to which they are applied.
In operation the "pull off" draws from the spool during the descent of the
needle lever the amount of thread required for each stitch the thread being clamped
by the clamping tension so that it is necessarily drawn from the spool through the
resisting tension. After the needle bar has risen and the loop has been taken by
the looper below the work plate of the sewing machine the clamping tension is
released and the thread which has been pulled off is gradually given up by the pull
off and goes into the stitch which is forming. All the thread is used and no more,
the resisting tension aided by the check tension and the various bends in the thread
through and over its guides being sufficient except under extraordinary strain to
prevent any thread from being drawn directly from the spool. The thread is then
again clamped by the clamping tension and the same quantity of thread is again
drawn from the spool by the "pull off."
By timing the parts so that the thread is delivered by the pull off gradually
during the up stroke of the needle the thread is best worked into the chain stitch
(made by the machine shown) but the parts could be otherwise timed without
departing from the invention. It is obvious that portions of the improvement
could be used separately and that various modifications could be made in addition
to those already indicated, for example the clamping tension could be carried by
the pull off instead of being placed on the machine frame as shown. The pull off
could be formed by an eye on the needle lever and a series of such eyes could be
used in order that the amount measured off could be varied. In special machines
which are to be used constantly on one style of work the measuring pull off need
not be adjustable.
In machines not using a needle lever or when from any reason it may not be
desirable to operater the pull off therefrom the latter may be operated from the
shaft from the shuttle driving lever in machines using a shuttle or from other
moving part
The improvement in feed mechanism consists in combining with the cam or
other device whereby the movement of the feed bar and consequently the length
of stitch is regulated a locking device so that when the said feed regulating cam
has been set to give the proper length of stitch it can not be altered except by the
foreman or person having the machine under control.
This improvement is specially useful in sewing knit goods with stitches equal
in length to the gauge of the fabric as herein before set forth.
For this purpose a feed regulating cam a clamping plate and a locking screw
bolt are employed. The clamping plate is supported on the same pin with the
feed regulating cam. The feed cam is provided with a curved slot. The locking
screw bolt fits in a hole in the machine frame passes through the slot in the feed
cam and is tapped into the clamping plate. The head of this bolt is formed as to
require a special key for turning. As shown it has a projection or extension in the
center and at the base thereof an annular collar in which are notches, and the
special key is formed with a hollow in its end to receive the said extension or
projection and prongs to fit in the notches.
When the locking bolt is released the feed cam can be turned to make the desired
length of stitch the slot allowing the requisite movement to be made. When

page_text: properly adjusted the locking bolt is turned by the special key and the feed cam is
securely held between the machine frame and the clamping plate until again
released by turning the locking bolt.
A hinged shield is adapted to cover the looper and feed mechanism during the
operation of the machine and to be swung down to expose these parts when this
is desired for any reason.
The improvement is applicable to all kinds of sewing machines to those using
a top feed as well as to those in which the feed is beneath the cloth plate, and to
those using other feed regulating devices as well as to those employing a cam.
The locking feed mechanism instead of being applied to the feed regulator
directly could be otherwise applied so as to protect the feed from alteration except
by means of the special key or device for that purpose.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed
by the said John Henry Johnson in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
12th September 1882.
JOHN HENRY JOHNSON of 47 Lincoln's Inn Fields in the County of Middlesex
Gentleman "IMPROVEMENTS IN METHODS OF AND APPARATUS FOR SEWING AND
TRIMMING KNIT GOODS AND OTHER FABRICS AND IN FORMING WELTS OR HEMS
"
THEREIN A communication from abroad by Stockton Borton of Philadelphia in
the County of Pennsylvania and Charles Henry Willcox of New York City in the
County and State of New York United States of America.
This Invention is designed more particularly for use in the manufacture of
hosiery underware and other knit goods but is applicable in part to the sewing
trimming and welting or hemming of other articles and fabrics. It has reference
Firstly to a combined sewing and trimming machine operating to trim the edge
or edges of the fabric automatically as the sewing proceeds. Secondly to a new
mode of sewing knit fabrics. Thirdly to a new mode of forming a welt or hem.
Fourthly to a series of guides for guiding a welt or hem to a sewing or combined
sewing and trimming machine. Fifthly to a tension and thread controlling
apparatus for the upper thread of a lock stitch or single thread of a chain stitch
machine and Sixthly to a feed lock for preventing the length of stitch from being
changed except by an authorized person.
The accompanying drawings which form a part of this Specification illustrate the
several improvements.
Figures 1 and 2 are respectively a plan and front elevation of a sewing machine
with the improved trimming attachment welting guides, tension and thread con-
trolling apparatus and feed lock; Figures 3 and 4 are partial views in vertical
and cross section on lines x and y y figure 1 and in elevation looking in opposite
directions. Figure 5 is a perspective view of the trimming attachment. Figures 6
and 7 are views respectively in plan and vertical section shewing more particularly
the relation of the welting guides and Figures 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13 and 14 are
detail views. Figures 15, 16, and 17 are views of modified forms of the presser
foot with holding finger for clamping the work to be sewed and trimmed on
opposite sides of the line of trimming Figure 18 represents a modified form of
guide for welting or hemming and Figure 19 illustrates a modified form of tension.
Figures 20, 21 and 22 and figures 23, 24 and 25 illustrate modifications of the
trimming attachment Figures 26 and 27 represent two layers of knit fabric united
in accordance with the second part of the invention and Figures 28, 29, 30 and 31
illustrate the formation of a welt or hem under the third part of the same.
The sewing machine illustrated in the drawing is a Willcox and Gibbs single
thread machine making a chain stitch by means of an eye pointed needle and a
loopar having a continuous revolution in the same direction and feeding the work
by a four motion feed beneath the cloth plate.
A is the frame of the machine A¹ the cloth plate A' the main or looper shaft A³
the looper A the needle lever operated by an eccentric on the main or looper shaft
through a connecting rod A, A the needle bar, Aº the needle, A' the presser bar,
and As the feed movement. These parts are of the ordinary construction.
The improvements will now be described beginning with the trimming attach-
ment and referring more particularly to Figures 1, 3, 5 and 6.
The cutting is performed by a vibratory cutter E operating in connection with a
stationary cutter D the two forming a pair of shears.
The cutters are placed behind the needle, the presser foot B being cut away at a

page_text: in the rear of the needle hole a¹ to allow the cutters to trim the fabric close to the
sewing. In Figures 20, 21 and 22 the cloth plate is also cut away as indicated
at a¹¹
To insure the proper dividing of the fabric it is held on both sides of the edges
of the cutters DE On one side it is clamped between the presser foot B and the
cloth plate A¹ and on the other side between a holding finger or device C and the
cutter D. The holding finger or device C is preferably toothed or roughened on
the bottom so as to take firm hold on the fabric. When the feed operates the
holding finger or device is automatically raised so as not to interfere with the free
movement of the fabric by the feed.
The holding finger or device as shown in Figures 2 and 17 is fastened to the
presser bar by a set screw In Figures 15 and 16 it is represented as made in one
piece with the presser foot and in figures 23, 24 and 25 it is attached to a rock
shaft F
When attached to the presser bar or presser foot the holding finger or device is
lifted with it by the feed surface of the ordinary four motion feed in its rise. When
supported independently the holding finger or device is raised by rocking the
shaft as hereinafter explained or by other suitable means.
To improve the action of the shears the cutter or blade E is made capable of a
movement substantially at right angles to the line of cutting and is connected with
a spring H arranged to retain the cutting edge in close contact with that of the
other cutter D. The movement referred to is not such as the blades of ordinary
shears or scissors have upon their fulcrum but a true line movement so that the
cutting edges are always pressed together with approximately the same force. In
order to still further improve the cutting action for knit goods one of the cutting
edges is made oblique to the line of cutting and the cutter E is at each operation
of the shears moved in one direction to the left (figures 1, 2, 5 and 6) by the action
of the cutting edges against each other in closing and is returned by the spring
when they open.
As herein shewn an oblique cutting edge is formed on the
stationary cutter D and the spring acts upon the rock shaft F which carries the
cutter E and is capable of a slight end wise movement as well as of a vibratory
movement.
The rock shaft F is supported by a frame G on, or (as in figures 20, 21 and 22)
under the plate A¹ and extends from a point in close proximity to the presser foot B
over the edge of the cloth plate A'. The cutter E is held against the enlarged end
of the shaft F by a screw all and prevented from turning on said screw by a
projection or steady pin an
From the rock shaft at or near the rear or right hand end thereof projects an
arm f with which is jointed one end of the link L by means of the pin f.
This pin has a bearing somewhat longer than the thickness of the link so as to
allow it an endwise movement independent of the latter. The other end of the
link encircles an eccentric on the main shaft of the machine and is held in position
by two collars / on said shaft. The stationary cutter or shear blade D consists of
a bar or plate on the end of which the cutting edge is formed. This bar, or plate
is adjustably secured in position in guides on or in the cloth plate by a set screw d
so as to be readily removed for sharpening or other purposes and to be set into
contact with the other cutter as may be required. The cutting edge slightly
oblique to the line of cutting can be easily formed on this plate or bar.
The rock shaft F is placed preferably a slight distance above the cloth plate as
shown in Figures 1, 2, 3 and 5 the surface of the stationary cutter D being on an
incline so that one of the severed portions is or may be readily fed over the shaft F.
There are special advantages in this disposition but if desired to have the cloth
plate free the said shaft is placed under the cloth plate as shewn in Figures 20, 21
and 22. The regulation of the closeness of the cutting or trimming to the line of
stitching can it is obvious be effected by adjusting the frame work Ğ with the two
blades or cutters D, E, in any ordinary or suitable way nearer to or further from
the needle but it is an improvement to make the framework stationary and adjust

page_text: the blades. The vibratory blade or cutter E being held in contact with the
stationary cutter D by the spring H it would unless checked follow the movements
of the stationary cutter D at right angles to the line of cutting and by adjusting
the stationary cutter the shears would cut more or less closely to the line of
stitching. In order however to diminish the wear upon the cutters by confining
their pressure against each other as much as may be to that portion by which the
cutting is to be done (which will be a greater or less distance according to the
length of the feed) an adjustable back stop I is placed at the end of the rock
shaft F and forms an end bearing therefor except when the cutter E and rock
shaft F are moved sidewise by the oblique edge of cutter D. The back stop I is
shown as a thumb or set screw but other adjusting devices may be used a cam for
example. By turning the screw I in one direction the shaft is advanced against
the pressure of its spring H by turning it in the other direction it is moved back
by the spring. The vibratory blade can thus be adjusted with precision whenever
required. The stationary cutter can then be adjusted into contact therewith the
vibratory blade being set at its highest point or at the point where it is desired
that the cutting should begin. The adjustment of the shears is in this invention
usually effected in this way.
Referring to Figures 23, 24 and 25 the rock shaft F¹ to which the holding finger
or device is fastened has an arm f" projecting over the arm f of the rock shaft F.
Connected with the rock shaft F is a spring H' tending to turn it in the direction
to hold the finger C in contact with the stationary cutter D. A spiral torsion
spring surrounding the rock shaft and connected at one end with it and at the
other end with the frame is shewn but a flat or other suitable form of spring if
properly disposed could be used instead. The end of the arm f" is so disposed
with respect to the arm f that as the latter is lifted by the link L and the eccentric
on the main shaft of the machine, it comes into contact with said arm f¹ and
vibrates the rock shaft F and relieves the pressure of the holding finger. As the
arm f" descends the spring forces down the holding finger and the pressure of the
latter on the goods is restored. In these figures the spring H the adjustable back
stop I and other parts shewn in the other figures are not represented.
Knit goods when cut have a great tendency to curl at the edges and this
tendency except with a very narrow margin or a wider presser foot than is desirable
is apt to cause the edges to turn over the presser foot and be caught by the needle.
To avoid this difficulty a raised projection B' around the front of the needle is
employed.
In order to prevent the curled edge of the work from getting under the foot and
from interfering with the action of the shears the toe B" of the foot is made of
half width so that the curled edge will pass on the side and come into contact
with the lateral projection B which will uncurl it sufficiently to prevent
interference with the shears.
The improvement in sewing knit goods is as follows; In the manufacture of
hosiery and knit underwear the plan pursued with the best quality of goods has
been to knit the several parts with salvage edges and unite them with an overseam.
With goods of an inferior quality commonly known as cut hose the expenditure of
time and labor involved in this plan has been avoided by cutting the pieces from a
sheet of knit material and stitching them together on a sewing machine.
Ordinarily a chain stitch machine is employed and the seams which are made
with very long and rather loose stitches say about seven to an inch are formed at
a considerable distance from the edges partly because it is impracticable to sew
very close to the raw edges of knit goods but also and mainly to make a strong
seam not liable to be destroyed by ravelling at the edge of the fabric. The
margin thus left outside the seam is very objectionable and detracts from the value
of the goods.
The object of the present improvement is to unite the layers of cut fabric upon
an ordinary sewing machine and at the same time to do away with this margin
which is not only unsightly but also makes the article uncomfortable to the wearer.

page_text: To accomplish this object the knit goods is sewed with a plain seam on an ordinary
Bewing machine with trimming attachment (such as the machine herein before
described), but instead of using a long stitch, the stitch is made short (or in other
words it is made about equal to the gauge of the fabric or not materially greater
than said gauge and the surplus material is trimmed off close to the seam.
Figure 26 shows the relative length of the stitches each being equal to the
distance between adjacent loops of the knitting which distance is herein termed
the gauge of the fabric. Figure 27 illustrates about the closeness of the
trimming.
By making the stitches about equal in length to the gauge of the fabric they
enclose only a few threads say one or two corresponding threads on each of the
two edges, to be united and being drawn tighter than could be done with a long
stitch they hold the threads firmly so that a margin is unnecessary to secure the
permanence of the seam. The edges can therefore be trimmed as closely as possible
to the seam since so long as the stitches are not cut its strength is not seriously
impaired. It is not necessary that the stitches should be exactly the gauge of the
fabric. They may be made as much shorter as is practicable but as the speed of
the sewing is diminished by shortening the stitch it is preferable to make them as
near as may be equal in length to the gauge of the fabric. A slight increase
beyond the length is not material. The seam may be made with the lock or other
suitable form of stitch but the chain stitch is preferred because it is elastic and is
similar in its nature to the goods themselves because the loops surround the knit
threads after the fashion of a running noose and thus bind them very tightly and
because the strength and regularity of the seam in itself is less affected than a
lock stitch by the formation of stitches in the interstices of the fabric without the
interposition of the knit threads. The edges being closely trimmed, the seam has
substantially the thickness of the rest of the article and there is not the objectionable
ridge or welt formed in the ordinary cut hose.
The character of the seam due to its being a plain or ordinary seam and to the
use of stitches not materially greater than the gauge of the fabric in connection
with regular and close trimming of the edges give to the goods an appearance very
different from anything heretofore produced.
The improvement in making welts or hems has for its object to make with ease
and rapidity upon an ordinary Sewing Machine a strong and neat seam which will
be hidden or but little apparent on the right side and will allow the fabric to
be flat.
The term welt is commonly applied by hosiery Manufacturers to the fold at the
top of a stocking which fold in other manufactures such as knit undershirts, is
called a hem and the words are employed herein as equivalents.
The fabric is folded as shewn in figure 28 and inserted between the presser foot B
and cloth plate A¹ of a combined Sewing and trimming machine such as herein-
before described. The needle passes through the layer b and through the fold a*
in the body of the fabric. The surplus material x in the layer b is trimmed off
by the cutters on the line y. In figures 29 and 30 the welt or hem is represented
as flattened out the stitches being indicated by c*.
Figure 31 is a theoretical diagram indicating the manner in which the stitches
are interlaced with the loops of the knit fabric at the fold a* and in the layer 6*.
For the sake of distinction the sewing c* is represented by light lines the folded
over layer b* by heavy lines and the body of the goods by dotted lines. In this
figure the stitches are made equal to the gauge of the fabric. No difficulty is
encountered in trimming the seam mechanically on account of one layer only being
trimmed as the other layer being folded upon itself is out of the way of the cutting
mechanism. The new seam although capable of being made with substantially the
rapidity and low cost of that used in the common cut hose approximates in
appearance and comfort and equals in durability that of the high priced regular
made goods. It is readily distinguishable from the latter.
Welts or hems under this improvement can be made upon a machine having a

page_text: needle which is reciprocated laterally to make a zig-zag stitch, or upon other
known sewing machines instead of upon a machine making an ordinary plain
Beam as shewn. Such machines would be provided with a suitable trimming
attachment.
In sewing the welt or hem the tension is to be so regulated as to allow the
material to flatten out when the sewing is completed.
To make the improved welt or hem industrially the guides now to be described
are employed said guides forming the fourth part of this Invention.
The folded edge a* (figure 28) of the fabric is guided by the guide K which has
a guiding edge f* slightly oblique to the feed movement so as to crowd the folded
edge towards the needle. It is detachably fastened by screws 1* or by other
suitable means to a carrier plate K¹ itself adjustably supported upon the cloth
plate A¹ or as shewn in Figure 18 it is made in one piece with the carrier plate.
The guide K terminates in front of the needle as shown in figures 1, 3 and 6 or
is notched for the passage of the needle (as shown in figure 18) and can be adjusted
so as to bring the end of the guiding edge f* in line or nearly in line with the
axis of the needle. The folded edge being released from the guiding edge f*
springs out so that the needle A° passes through the thickness of the fold a as
shown in Figure 28. At k' the guiding edge is made deeper than at the part
adjacent to the needle hole so as to prevent the folded edge from accidentally
escaping over the top of the guide K before said fold passes under the presser foot.
The edge of the layer b (figures 7 and 28) passes over the top of guide K under
the lateral projection B which takes out the curl and then to the cutters D E
which sever the strip on the line y. In order the better to insure the uncurling
of the edge a groove f* is made in the top of guide K to receive the lateral
projection B which should at the lower edge be flash with the bottom of the
presser foot shown in figure 12 instead of cut away as in figure 17. As the
holding finger or device bears on one layer of the fabric while the presser foot
bears on three it should be properly adjusted on the presser bar in passing from
thick goods to thin or vice versa. With a holding finger as shown in figures 23,
24 and 25 the adjustment is automatic. The part g of the guide K is preferably
curved to correspond with the toe Bч of the presser foot. The carrier plate K'
and with it the folded edge guide K are adjusted by means of the handle or
lever N turning on a screw n¹ that is tapped into the cloth plate. A pin h¹ on the
carrier plate works in a sloth on the underside of the handle or lever N or an
eccentric boss on the underside of the lever or handle works in the hole h
(figure 18) in the carrier plate so that by turning the handle or lever N the
guide K may be moved back and forth. A spring washer n exerts sufficient
friction on the carrier plate to hold it in the position to which it is adjusted while
allowing said plate to be shifted at will by means of the handle or lever N. A
welt or hem can with little care on the part of the operator be made with the
folded edge guide K alone but in order to render the guiding still more mechanical
or automatic a guide is provided for the inside of the fold which keeps the work
against the folded edge guide K and is formed by the edge i of an arm b over-
hanging the cloth plate. This arm forms part of the bent strip M and serves also
as the guide to regulate the width of the welt or hem being from the extreme
point of the edge i to the bend i¹ equal to said width.
The strip M is attached to a raised portion m on the guide K and is held in
place by the screw which passes through the guide K and is tapped into an
arm f of said bar and by ears or lugs which prevent it from moving horizontally.
The guiding edge i is curved and the opposite edge of the folded edge guide K. is
cut away or recessed at f* concentric therewith so as to leave a curved passage of
uniform width between them. The strip M being attached to an elevation m space
is left below for the edge of the material to pass. The position of the guides with
respect to each other and to the needle bar and presser foot of the machine for
medium weight goods is shown in the drawing that is to say the extreme points of
the folded edge guide K and of the curved edge guide i are in line with each other

page_text: and lie in the same or approximately the same vertical plane with the axis of the
needle slightly oblique to the direction of the feed the extreme point of the guide K
at the rear being just in front of the needle. For heavier work the carrying
plate with the guides will be adjusted the required distances to the right. It
will of course be understood that the guides are selected with reference to the
work to be performed. There is no need of having the strip M adjustable with
reference to the guide K but if desired the connection between the parts could be
adjustable by having a alot in the strip M.
The guide shown in Figure 9 is to be used without the overhanging guide k i
and is not provided with the curved recess f*.
The manner of sewing a welt or hem is as follows:-
The edge of the fabric is folded over to give a hem of the desired width and
leave a margin to be trimmed off. The fold is then inserted under the overhanging
arm k around guide i into bend ¹ leaving the main body of the goods folded over
the guide with the fold against the edge of guide F and the free edge of the
fabric projecting over said guiding edge as shewn in figure 7. The machine being
started sews through the upper layer of fabric and the fold beneath which is held
in position by the edge of guide K. The surplus material on the free edge is
removed by the trimmer. The only care required on the part of the operator is to
keep the fabric straight and well into the bend i¹. The curved passage around the
guide i allows seams to pass without difficulty while the extension B1 of the
upright on the presser foot takes out the curl in the edge of the fabric.
It is obvious that modifications may be made in the details of construction
without departing from the spirit of the invention and portions of the latter can
be used separately. For example the guide strip M might be used without the
guide K or other suitable overhanging guide adapted to enter the fold could be
employed but the same should then be placed in closer proximity to the needle and
"the presser foot should be adapted to receive it. The curved form of guiding
edge i would not of course be required in such case. Instead of having the folded
edge guide supported on the cloth plate it could be carried by the presser foot of
the machine.
The improvement in the tension and the thread controlling apparatus now to be
described has for its object to measure out and deliver to the stitch forming
mechanism the exact amount of thread required for each stitch so that each stitch
will contain the same length of thread and an uniform elastic seam will be the
result without special care or skill on the part of the operator.
The apparatus for accomplishing this result is arranged to act upon the thread
between the take up (formed in the machine shewn by the needle bar) and the
spool. It consists of a pull off P on a vibratory arm which acts upon the thread
between an intermittent clamping tension Q and a resisting tension B. The spool
is placed on the pin R¹ or is otherwise supported and the thread is led therefrom
around the bar R' between the disks or washers of the resisting tension over
the bar R¹ through the eye in the end of the pull off P back over the bar R¹
between the disks or washers q q¹ of the clamping tension Q thence over the bar R¹
and between the disks or washers of a very light check tension S to the take up
and eye of the needle. The pull off P is fastened to the needle lever A' by a
screw P¹ and as shewn a spring washer p is placed under the head of the screw P¹
but this may be omitted.
By setting the pull off to the right (figures 1 and 2) the eye is brought nearer
the fulcrum of the needle lever and consequently it moves through a shorter
distance than before at each vibration of the needle lever and pulls off a less
amount of thread from the spool whereas by setting it to the left a greater length
is pulled off for each stitch.
The clamping tension Q is intermittent in its action. It clamps the thread
while the pull off is drawing thread from the spool through the resisting tension R
and then releases the thread to allow the thread drawn off to be delivered freely to

page_text: the stitch forming device. An intermittent tension or clamp of any suitable
construction may be used.
As shewn the upper tension disk q is fixed to the stud q³ and is held against
the lower disk q¹ by the spring q³ surrounding the stud q3 except at intervals when
the stud g' is lifted by the eccentric rod 9. This rod at its lower end encircles an
eccentric on the main or looper shaft A³ and at its upper end carries a screw q
which lifts the stud q³.
The resisting tension R may be intermittent in its action like the clamping
tension or any other known or suitable device for producing a hold or tension
on the thread such as weighting the spool passing the thread through a series of
eyes and other well known devices can be used but a disk tension with disks held
together by spring pressure is preferred. As shown it consists of the two tension
disks a screw and a spring. The screw holds the several parts together
and attaches them to the machine frame and the spring pushes the lower disk 7'
upwards against the disk r.
So far as measuring out the thread is concerned the apparatus described is
sufficient but in passing from one piece of goods to another the short chain
of stitches between the pieces would be too loose if all the thread measured at each
stitch were to be worked into it. To prevent this the light check tension S is
arranged to act upon the thread between the clamping tension Q and the take up.
This check tension is so slight as not to interfere with the delivery to the stitch
forming mechanism of all the thread measured by the pull off so long as the needle
penetrates the fabric but when as in running from one piece to another several
stitches are made outside the fabric the tension S exerts a slight check on the thread
which prevents more than the proper quantity of thread going into the chain.
8
Instead of having the check tension entirely separate from the clamping tension
as shown in Figure 2 it could be combined with it as shown in figure 19 the
annular washers a surrounding the disk o̟ and being held down by the springs 8¹.
The terms clamping tension, resisting tension and check tension are used to
distinguish the several tension devices from each other, said terms indicating the
general character or function of the devices to which they are applied.
In operation the pull off P draws from the spool during the descent of the
needle lever the amount of thread required for each stitch the thread being
clamped by the clamping tension Q so that it is necessarily drawn from the spool
through the resisting tension R. After the needle bar A has risen and the loop
has been taken by the looper A' below the work plate A¹ of the sewing machine
the clamping tension Q is released and the thread which has been pulled off is
gradually given up by the pull off P and goes into the stitch which is forming.
All the thread is used and no more the resisting tension R aided by the check
tension 8 and the various bends in the thread through and over its guides being
sufficient except under extraordinary strain to prevent any thread from being
drawn directly from the spool. The thread is then again clamped by the clamping
tension and the same quantity of thread is again drawn from the spool by the
pull off P.
By timing the parts so that the thread is delivered by the pull off gradually
during the up stroke of the needle the thread is best worked into the chain stitch
(made by the machine shewn) but the parts could be otherwise timed without
departing from the Invention. It is obvious that portions of the improvement
could be used separately and that various modifications could be made in addition
to those already indicated for example the clamping tension could be carried by
the pull off instead of being placed on the machine frame as shewn. The pull off
could be formed by an eye on the needle lever and a series of such eyes could be
used in order that the amount measured off could be varied. In special machines
which are to be used constantly on one style of work the measuring pull off need
not be adjustable.
In machines not using a needle lever or where from any reason it may not be
desirable to operate the pull off therefrom the latter may be operated from the

page_text: shaft from the shuttle driving lever in machines using a shuttle or from other
moving part.
The improvement in feed mechanism consists in combining with the cam or
other device whereby the movement of the feed bar and consequently the length
of stitch is regulated a locking device so that when the said feed regulating cam has
been set to give the proper length of stitch it can not be altered except by the
foreman or person having the machine under control.
This improvement is especially useful in sewing knit goods with stitches equal in
length to the gauge of the fabric as herein before set forth.
T is the feed regulating cam, U a clamping plate and V a locking screw bolt.
The clamping plate U is supported on the same pin X with the feed regulating
cam T. The feed cam is provided with a curved slot t. The locking screw bolt V
fits in a hole in the machine frame A passes through the slot t in the feed cam and
is tapped into the clamping plate the head of this bolt is so formed as to require
a special key for turning. As shown it has a projection or extension in the
centre and at the base thereof an annular collar v in which are notches vu and the
special key Z (figure 2) is formed with a hollow in its end to receive the said
extension or projection v and prongs to fit in the notches 11.
When the locking bolt is released the feed cam T can be turned to make the
desired length of stitch the slott allowing the requisite movement to be made.
When properly adjusted the locking bolt is turned by the special key and the feed
cam is securely held between the machine frame and the clamping plate until again
released by turning the locking bolt.
The hinged shield Y shown in figure 3 is adapted to cover the looper A³ and feed
mechanism A8 during the operation of the machine and to be swung down to
expose these parts when this is desired for any reason.
The improvement is applicable to all kinds of sewing machines to those
using a top feed as well as to those in which the feed is beneath the cloth plate
and to those using other feed regulating devices as well as to those employing
a cam.
The locking feed mechanism instead of being applied to the feed regulator
directly could be otherwise applied so as to protect the feed from alteration except
by means of the special key or device for that purpose.
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of the said
Invention and the manner in which the same is or may be used or carried into
effect I would observe in conclusion that what I consider to be novel and original
and therefore claim as the Invention secured to me by the hereinbefore in part
recited Letters Patent is,-
First: In a trimming attachment for sewing machines mechanism for clamping
the fabric on opposite sides of the cutting edges of a pair of shears substantially
as described.
Second Clamping the fabric to be trimmed between one of the shear blades or
cutters and a holding finger or device substantially as described.
Third: A holding finger with roughened or toothed holding surface substantially
as described.
Fourth: The several forms of presser foot with holding finger shown respectively
in figures 3 and 17 in figure 15 in figure 16 and in figures 23 and 24.
Fifth In a trimming attachment having a shear cutter capable of a rectilinear
side movement the oblique arrangement of the cutting edge of the two shear
blades or cutters with respect to each other substantially as described.
Sixth-In & trimming attachment having one of the shear blades or cutters
capable of a rectilinear side movement the spring for holding it with its cutting
edge in contact with that of the other cutter substantially as described this
combination and arrangement being claimed as well for shear blades with parallel
cutting edges as for those having the cutting edges slightly oblique.
Seventh-The combination of the adjustable back stop with the laterally
movable and vibratory blade and its spring substantially as described.

page_text: Eighth The combination of the stationary cutter with oblique cutting edge
with the elements of claim 7 substantially as described.
Ninth The rock shaft carrying the vibratory blade or cutter and extending
from a point near the presser foot over the edge of the cloth plate and receiving
a rocking motion from the main or looper shaft substantially as described.
Tenth-Attaching or holding the vibratory cutter or blade against the end of
the rock shaft by means of a screw and a projection such as a steady pin.
Eleventh-Arranging the vibratory cutter and rock shaft so that the trimmed
off portion of the goods passes over said shaft substantially as described.
Twelfth:—Arranging the rock shaft which carries the vibratory cutter under the
cloth plate substantially as described.
Thirteenth-The combination with the rock shaft supported on the cloth plate
and carrying the vibratory blade or cutter of an inclined plate in front of said
shaft substantially as described.
Fourteenth-In a sewing machine with trimming attachment the upright
projection in front of the needle hole substantially as described.
Fifteenth-The presser foot provided with a narrow toe a lateral projection and
an upright projection in front of the needle hole substantially as described.
Sixteenth-Adjusting a sewing machine trimmer by the positive or direct
mechanical action of a screw or equivalent device substantially as described.
Seventeenth-Sewing or uniting knit goods by means of a combined sewing
and trimming machine or otherwise with trimmed seams of plain sewing machine
stitches equal or about equal in length to the gauge of the fabric substantially as
described.
Eighteenth-Making a welt or hem by folding and sewing the fabric as
described and trimming off the surplus material simultaneously with the sewing
operation.
•
Nineteenth-The method and means herein described for guiding sewing and
trimming a welt or hem.
Twentieth-The folded edge guide in its several forms substantially as
described.
Twenty first: The combination of the folded edge guide and the overhanging
guide substantially as described.
Twenty second :- -The folded edge guide in combination with a sewing machine
having a presser foot as described.
Twenty third:-The combination with a combined sewing and trimming
machine of an edge guide arranged between the line of sewing and the line of
trimming.
Twenty fourth-The overhanging guide in combination with a combined sewing
and trimming machine.
Twenty fifth-The folded edge guide and overhanging guide in the same
combination.
Twenty sixth-Detachably connecting the folded edge guide with an adjustable
carrier plate substantially as described.
Twenty seventh :-Supporting the folded edge guide and the overhanging guide
common carrier plate adjustable substantially as and by the means
upon a
described.
Twenty eighth-Cutting away the folded edge guide opposite the end of the
overhanging guide substantially as described.
Twenty ninth-In combination with a presser foot cut away as described and
provided with a lateral projection an edge guide grooved or recessed under the
said projection substantially as described.
Thirtieth-The elements of claim 29 in combination with a combined sewing
and trimming machine substantially as described.
Thirty first: A guide with oblique guiding edge in combination with a presser
foot cut away as described.

page_text: Thirty second-An adjustable bolding finger or device in combination with
a sewing and trimming machine for welting or hemming substantially as
described.
Thirty third-Measuring off the thread for each stitch by clamping the thread
between a measuring pull off and the stitch forming mechanism during the
operation of the pull off and then releasing the clamp and leaving the thread free
to be drawn upon until the measured quantity is used up and further delivery is
stopped by a suitable resisting tension so that substantially the same length of
thread is worked into each stitch.
Thirty fourth-The combination of an adjustable pull off with an intermittent
clamping tension and a resisting tension substantially as described.
Thirty fifth-The combination of a light check tension with a measuring or
adjustable pull off and tension substantially as described.
Thirty sixth-The special construction of the resisting tension of the inter-
mittent clamping tension and of the modified form of check tension shown in
figure 19 substantially as described.
Thirty seventh :—'
-The means described for producing an adjustable operation
of the pull off substantially as described.
Thirty eighth-A feed lock substantially as described for preventing the
operator from altering the length of stitch.
Thirty ninth-The special means described for locking the device for regulating
the length of stitch in a feed movement for sewing machines.
Fortieth-A sewing machine provided with trimming attachment welting or
hemming guides measuring tension and pull off and feed lock substantially as
described.
In witness whereof I the said John Henry Johnson have to this my
Specification set my hand and seal this Eighth day of September One
thousand eight hundred and eighty two.
I HENRY JOHNSON (r.)