Improvements in the Manufacture of Figured Fabrics.
Year: 1891

page_text: Date of Application, 28th Jan., 1891-Accepted, 28th Feb., 1891
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Figured Fabrics.
We, THOMAS TAYLOR, of the firm of Barlow and Jones Limited, of Bolton, in the
County of Lancaster, Manufacturers, and JACOB WARBURTON, of the same place,
Designer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement:
-
Our invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of a certain class of
figured fabrics, being the subject of Letters Patent granted to us on the 13th day
of December 1886 and numbered 16284 and our improvements have for their
object the production of a sharper and more clearly defined figure in the pattern
of the fabric and to enable such pattern to be woven in conjunction with a
differently coloured ground if desired.
In manufacturing our improved fabric we use the same arrangement of warps
and harness and cut the cards to actuate the Jacquard in a manner similar to that
described in the Specification to our above named Patent.
When weaving our improved fabric with four picks to a card and with one
shuttle the movements would be as follows for two cards.

page_text: No. 1 and No. 2 back grifes rise, No. 2 face board remaining up.
The effect of this is the same as in the third pick.
EIGHTH PICK.
The same in every respect as the fourth.
Following out these movements it will be seen that on the face of the fabric the
ground is composed of the coarse warp threads woven as calico, with the 1st, 2nd,
5th, and 6th picks; and the back of the ground is composed of the fine warp
threads interwoven with every pick (two picks in each shed) the 3rd, 4th, 7th,
and 8th, picks showing as calico underneath the cloth; while the figure on the
surface is composed of fine warp threads woven as calico, with the 3rd, 4th, 7th,
and 8th, picks only. The 1st and 6th picks are woven as calico with the coarse
warp under the figure; while the 2nd and 5th picks are laid between the figure
and the back of the cloth.
A similar cloth could be produced with four picks to the round by either
interweaving all the ground picks with the coarse warp under the figure or allowing
them to lie between the coarse warp and the cloth forming the figure.
Although four picks to a card and plain weaving are herein described the
number of picks per card or the weaving may be considerably varied or the ground
may be woven in a different colour to that of the figure.
When weaving our improved cloth six picks to the round with a single shuttle
or with more than one shuttle the movements would be as follows:-
Face grife, No. 1 face board and No. 1 back board rise.
The effect of this is to lift all the face yarn in the figure, half the face yarn in
the ground, and half the back yarn all across.

page_text: No. 1 and No. 2 back grifes and No. 1 face board remain up.
The effect of this is to lift all the back yarn in the ground and the first half of
the face yarn all across, making with the 5th and 1st picks, three picks in this face
shed in the ground.
If woven with two shuttles the 4th and 5th picks will be coarse weft, and the
other four picks fine weft.
Following out these movements it will be seen that the 1st and 2nd picks are
woven as calico with both the coarse and fine warp threads in the ground of the
fabric and with the coarse warp threads only under the figure; the 3rd and 6th
picks are woven as calico all across, with the fine warp threads only, and the
4th and 5th picks are woven as calico; with the fine warp threads underneath the
ground and lie between the two fabrics at those places where the figures come.
On the accompanying sheet of diagrams:
Figure 1 shows in longitudinal section the structure of a fabric having four picks
to a card and
Figure 2 is a similar diagram of a fabric with six picks to a card, both woven in
accordance with our improvements as described.
C
the face
In these views the back warp is represented by the strong lines a and
warp by the fine lines and d; the fine weft by small circles and the coarse weft by
the larger circles.
In longitudinal section, the diagrams of these four and six pick fabrics appear
similar to those shown in the diagram to our said Specification No. 16284 of
1886 as representing similar fabrics; the difference is however that in the previous
Specification (No. 16284 of 1886) the face of the ground and the face of the figure
are composed of the same picks; whereas in carrying out this our present invention
the face of the figure is composed of picks which are woven in underneath the
ground and the face of the ground is composed of picks which are woven in under-
neath the figure; thereby producing a more clearly or sharply defined figure and
allowing the ground of the fabric to be woven of a different colour to that of the
figure when such is desired.
Thus in a cloth, six picks to a card, with the ground and figure of different
colours, there may be three shuttles used, one being for fine weft in the figure, one
for fine coloured weft and the third for coarse or roving picks at the back of the
ground and for filling or packing the figures.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we
claim is :-
1. A woven fabric having raised figures woven with weft, which, upon leaving
the figured portions of the fabric, is caused to pass underneath the surface of the
body or ground of the fabric in combination with other weaving, forming such or a
portion of such body or ground of the fabric, the weft for which on leaving the out-
lines of such ground, is caused to pass underneath the surface of the figures or a
portion thereof, either as packing or filling to such figured portions, or otherwise,
for the purpose and in manner substantially as herein described and illustrated by
the accompanying diagrams.
2. The mode of weaving the improved fabric substantially as herein shown and
described.
Dated this 27th dow of T1001
H. B. BARLOW,
17, St. Ann's Square, Manchester, Agent for Applicants.