Improved Method of and Apparatus for Drafting Garment Patterns.
Year: 1897

page_text: Date of Application, 6th Apr., 1897-Accepted, 5th Mar., 1898
COME DEI DI MUITIVATION.
Improved Method of and Apparatus for Drafting Garment Patterns.
I, EDWARD JAMES CURRAN, of Bathurst, New South Wales, Cutter, do hereby
declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:-
This invention relates to an improved method of drafting garment patterns,
and to apparatus therefor. It consists in a method whereby the curves and model
of the figure are accurately reproduced in flexible wires which are made to trace
the outline of the pattern on paper, the cloth or stuff being subsequently cut by the
pattern in the usual way.
In carrying out the invention, pieces of wire of lead or other suitable flexible
but inelastic substance, are bent around the person being fitted on the horizontal
and certain other curves on which measurements are usually taken, and they are
cut to the proper lengths by means of a nippers or wire cutters. The several
templates so obtained are arranged in carriers or frames designed to hold them
in positions corresponding with the normal positions occupied by them when
being fitted, a model of the figure being thus obtained.
The pattern is drafted by transferring the "lines" so obtained on to a pattern
sheet of paper or other substance.
Referring to the annexed sheet of explanatory drawings, Fig. 1 is a fragment
front view of a model, indicating the method of placing the mould wires; Fig. 2, a
fragment side view indicating the method of setting and supporting the mould wires;
Fig. 3, a plan showing all the wires moulded as in Figs. 1 and 2, in their proper
relative positions when viewed vertically; Fig. 4, a similar plan showing the mould
wires formed to the collar and shoulder curves; Fig. 5, a similar plan, showing
the mould wires formed to the shoulder and breast curves; Fig. 6, a similar view,
showing the mould wires formed to the breast and waist curves; Fig. 7, a similar
view, showing the mould wires formed to the waist and hip curves; and Fig. 8,
a similar view, showing the mould wires formed to the curves of the hip and the
lower edge of the coat. A mould of the half section only of the body of the
person being measured" is taken, but a full section mould of the arm is taken.
In forming the body mould wires, care should be taken to keep them parallel
and approximately horizontal to the vertical frame, hereinafter described; to
ensure this, double-jointed pointers (see Figs. 29 and 30) are mounted upon
frames; these pointers indicate on the front of the model places which correspond
as to horizontal position with places on its back. The places on the back are
measured off from the vertical staff C by pointers H, which are used to indicate
the positions of such places (at or about which the mould wire measurements are
taken) relatively to a vertical line.
67
The mould wires so obtained are fitted in marking carriers, which are illustra-
ted in Figs. 9 to 16, at the same distances apart as the lines on the figure on which
they are moulded. Fig. 9 shews a side view of a marking carrier holding the
collar and shoulder mould wires; Fig. 10, a plan thereof; Fig. 11, a plan of
carrier holding the breast and waist mould wires; and Fig. 12, a perspective side

page_text: view thereof; Fig. 13, a side view of a carrier holding the shoulder, breast and
scye mould wires; Fig. 14, a plan of same; Fig. 15, an enlarged sectional eleva-
tion and Fig. 16 an enlarged plan illustrative of the construction of the marking
carriers. In Figs. 13 and 14 an attachment to the marking carrier is shown;
this attachment is for holding the mould wire which marks the scye, and it con-
sists of an extensible bracket having a carrier with universal movement at its
end, the wire moulded on the arm seam being set in said carrier and made to
occupy a correct position relatively to the shoulder and breast wire carriers.
Figs. 17 and 18 represent patterns drafted by marking paper with the mould
wires.
These patterns are drafted in sections as shown by the numbers 1, 2, 3, 4,
(Fig. 17) and to obtain each of these, two of the wires which have been previously
moulded at the required position on the figure, are adjusted and fixed, on the
carrier, used for such particular measurement, so as to be the same relative dis-
tance apart as at the time of being moulded. These wires are now in the form of
half loops standing at right angles to the main stem of the carrier as shown in
Fig. 12. This arrangement of carriers and wires is then placed on a sheet of
paper as shown at A3, Fig. 19, in such a manner that the corresponding ends of
the two half loops A4, A5 are touching the paper, the arrangement is then turned
or rolled by hand over the paper, in such a manner that the entire length of the
moulded wires bear upon or touch the paper, the lines traversed by the wires
being marked with chalk or a pencil or the like, in this manner a pattern is
obtained of which the line B4 (Fig. 19) is equal in length to the total length of the
wire A, and the line B5 is equal to the length of the wire A³. The dotted lines
at A indicate the position of the carrier when those parts of the wire loops
furthest from the main stem are touching the paper. In this manner the several
sections are drafted these being then cut out and pieced. Fig. 18 shows the
several sections of patterns assembled.
This method of drafting the pattern is similar for all the different parts of the
garment, the various carriers being used for the various sections.
The tailor fits and arranges these sections as his knowledge and experience
directs, and according to requirements as to style and finish. Generally, so far
as the fitting of the figure is concerned, the size and draping and set will be
approximately correct.
Fig. 20 represents patterns for a sleeve; and Fig. 21 the same arranged on a
single pattern sheet, the inner part being overlapped by the outer part; the cloth
is cut to the shape represented in Fig. 20, the arrangement in Fig. 21
being adopted only in order to get the patterns for both parts of the sleeve marked
on a single sheet. Fig. 22 is an elevation of the upper half of a sleeve; Fig. 23
a section of the same at the scye; Fig. 24 a section of same at the elbow; Figs. 27
and 28, half-sections of same at the elbow and wrist respectively; Fig. 25 a view
of a carrier with mould wires set for drafting the upper half of the sleeve (i.e.
from shoulder to elbow), and Fig. 26 a view of a carrier with mould wires set for
drafting the lower half of the sleeve.
In Figs. 29 and 30 before referred to, A is a fixed standard B a joint on same,
Ca vertical piece supported on the joint B, by means of which it can be moved
vertically or horizontally. D are lugs to which the joints E, F, G are articulated,
and H are pointers for indicating the relative positions of places on the back, these
pointers H work in holes in the piece C and are fixed by pinching pins K. The
joints E, F, G can be pivoted by means of a removable pintle to any one of the
lugs D, and there may be provided a series of such lugs between those shewn.
It is not essential that these joints should be set exactly on the plane on which
moulds and measurements are taken they are intended to act only as indicators
of horizontal positions as already explained.
The sleeves are drafted by two sets of moulds, one for the upper and one for
the lowerpart. The carrier used for the former is a telescopic bar L with claw
attachments M for holding the mould wires, said attachments having a universal

page_text: motion (ball and cup) about the bar and being provided with pinching screws N.
The carrier used for the latter is a bar O on which slide collars P having set
screws and provided with claw attachments R for holding the mould wires,
this is also the form of carrier used for marking off the body measurements, but
there is this difference between the two; the carriers for the sleeve have claws to
hold the two ends of a mould wire, whilst carriers for the body mould wires are
adapted to hold only one end of a mould wire. The claws of the carriers (see
Figs. 15 and 16) consist of tubular pieces S radiating from the hub, ring, or
slider S2 on the trammel, and stems T sliding in said tubular pieces and ter-
minating in spring clips U of any convenient form for grasping the mould wires.
The stems T slide in the tubular pieces S with a little friction, so that whilst they
are easily adjustable to the mould wires they will still be sufficiently stiff to hold the
mould wires in their proper curves whilst the pattern is being rolled on and
marked off.
The carrier used for marking off the shoulder and breast moulds has an
additional attachment for marking the seye. This attachment consists of a
telescopic stem V, mounted at right angles on a slider W on the bar O and carry-
ing claws radiating from a hub Y which has universal motion (ball and cup and
set screws Z) about the end of said stem V. The claws which carry the scye mould
wire a complete loop-are set so that the scye will occupy its proper relative
position and angle as in the figure being fitted; another adjustment for the same
purpose is obtained by mounting the sliders W on a cross bar A³, which in turn
is mounted on a slider B³ moving on the main bar O. This device is fully
explained by Figs. 13 and 14.
The carrier shown in Fig. 32, for use in drafting a skirt, is identical in cou-
struction with the carrier shown in Fig. 26.
The carrier for the collar and shoulder mould wires consist of a hub or centre
part D, from which radiate tubular pieces carrying claw stems E2, and telescopic
pieces F, carrying at their ends at right angles telescopic claw stems G², in which
the collar mould wire is.held. This carrier may, however, be constructed on the
principle illustrated in Figs. 15 and 16.
The method of use of the system and apparatus is as follows:
Moulds having been taken in lead wire in the manner indicated in Figs. 1
and 2, and the curve of the back marked by the pointers H, the mould wires are
arranged in their respective carriers. Firstly, the collar and shoulder wires are
arranged in their proper carrier, and the carrier rolled along the pattern sheet,
the lines passed along by them being chalked or otherwise marked on the pattern
sheet. The marked piece 1 (see Figs. 17 and 18) is cut out. Then the mould
wires of shoulder and breast and seye are taken, fixed in a carrier and lines
obtained by rolling over the pattern sheet as last explained, the piece 2 is thus
marked off and cut. Next the breast and waist wires are fixed in a carrier and in
the way already described the piece 3 is obtained. Next the waist and hip mould
wires are similarly fixed and the part 4 obtained. The last body piece (not
shown) is obtained from the hip and skirt wires. The several pieces so obtained
are assembled as shown in Figs. 17 and 18, the position of the pieces being settled
with reference to the points indicated by the pointers H. The pieces so assembled
give the pattern of the body of a coat, but before it is used it may be trimmed
off by a cutter.
In forming a pattern for the sleeves, the scye wire claws M are adjusted to the
angle at which the sleeve is desired to stand out from the body of the coat, the
elbow wire carrier being arranged approximately at right angles to the stem.
The pattern of the top portion of the sleeve is obtained by rolling the instrument
thus made along upon the pattern sheet and as before marking the course
traversed by the wires. The lower part of the sleeve is drafted by the carrier
shown in Fig. 26 and marking and cutting out the piece indicated by the course
of the wires; these two pieces are placed together in their proper relative positions

page_text: and form the pattern. The seam outlines are marked off by the cutter in such
curves and lines as his experience directs, the mechanically made pattern deter-
mining for him the limits of width at scye, elbow, and wrist.
Figs. 31 and 32 are descriptive of the drafting of a pattern for the hip of a skirt,
and taken with the preceding description are self explanatory.
Fig. 19 illustrates the method of rolling a carrier and mould wires over a
pattern sheet. The mould wires are shown for clearness sake without the sup-
porting claws; the dotted lines indicate the position of the carrier during the course
of the marking off.
It is practically immaterial to the operation of the main part of the invention
what mechanical devices are adopted for retaining or supporting the mould wires
whilst the lines reproduced by them arc transferred to a sheet, and I therefore
do not restrict myself to the special devices herein described to be used therefor.
And it is not material by what process the lines traced by the wires are reproduced
on the pattern sheet; they may be traced as described, or the wires may be inked
and made to print lines, or they may be made to make impressed lines, in which
last mentioned case a glazed paper is used, the glazed surface of which will become
clearly marked where it is impressed against the mould wires; or according to
an alternative arrangement, which I prefer to use in making patterns for ladies'
habits, and which may be used to obtain patterns of horizontal and other sections
of a garment, the wires are made to delineate the pattern whilst they are in-situ
on the figures; this is accomplished by using a sensitive paper for the pattern
sheet, laying it on to the figure over the mould wires, connecting the mould wires
to one terminal of an electric battery whose other terminal is connected to a hand
plate, and moving the hand plate over the sensitive pattern sheet where it overlies
the mould wires, whereby the passage of the current through the sheet is faciliated
and visible lines produced by the chemical change brought about by the
electrolytic action. Such a sensitive sheet consists of ordinary absorbent paper
kept damp and saturated with some substance whose color will change when it is
electrolysed. Such a substance might consist of a vegetable coloring matter and
common salt. When the current passes, the electrolysis of the salt produces free
chlorine which bleaches the color and leaves a white or pale line. The marked
pieces so produced are manipulated in the manner already described.
Though only the drafting of a coat and skirt section has been described, it will
be fully clear that the system and apparatus are usable for producing draft
patterns for trousers, dresses, and many other garments.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is:-
1. Drafting garment patterns by copying curves of the figure with mould wires,
and tracing lines derived from said mould wires on a pattern sheet, substantially
as described.
2. Drafting garment patterns by means of wires moulded to curves of the figure
and carried in pairs in a device whereby said wires are made to trace the lines
of the pattern, substantially as described.
3. A method of obtaining a pattern of an horizontal section of a garment, con-
sisting in moulding wires to the lines of the upper and lower edges of same,
mounting said wires in a carrier whereby their form and relative distance apart
is maintained, and rolling the device (carrier and wires) over the pattern sheet
for the purpose of transferring thereto the outlines of a piece required to form said
garment section, substantially as described.
4. The construction of the compound carrier for marking the lines of shoulder,
breast and scye, consisting of the carrier substantially as set forth in claiming
Clause 3 hereof, and a scye wire carrier mounted on the main trammel and having
universal adjustments, substantially as described.
5. A carrier for mould wires consisting of a telescopic stem terminating in

page_text: claws, and radiating from sliders on a trammel, substantially as and for the pur-
poses described.
6. A carrier for mould wires consisting of a telescopic bar, having at its ends
universal motion pieces, from which radiate telescopic stems terminating in claws,
substantially as and for the purposes described.
7. A method of obtaining a pattern of a section of a garment, consisting in
moulding wires to the edges of said section, setting a sensitive sheet of paper
over said wires in-situ, and causing an electric current to pass and by electroly-
zing the substance with which the paper is sensitized and so causing it to change
its color, marking on said paper the counterpart of the pattern outlined by said
mould wires, substantially as described.
די
100%
HERBERT HADDAN & Co.,
Agents to Applicant,
18, Buckingham Street, Strand, London, W.C.,
HERBERT HADDAN & Co.,
Agents to Applicant,
18, Buckingham Street, Strand, London, W.C.,