IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANU- FACTURE OF SKIRT BORDERINGS AND LININGS TO BE APPLIED TO WEARING APPAREL
Year: 1865

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Staats, of No. 76, Cannon Street West,
in the City of London, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANU-
FACTURE OF SKIRT BORDERINGS AND LININGS TO BE APPLIED TO WEARING
APPAREL." A communication from abroad by Carl Spannagel, residing
at Barmen, in the Kingdom of Prussia.
Sealed the 12th May 1865, and dated the 8th February 1865.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Staats at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
8th February 1865..
I, WILLIAM STAATS, of No. 76, Cannon Street West, in the City of London,
do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
THE MANUFACTURE OF SKIRT BORDERINGS AND LININGS TO BE APPLIED TO WEARING
APPAREL," to be as follows:-
Hitherto female dresses have been bound or formed at their lower or bottom
edges with strips of silk, linen, cotton, wool, or other similar materials cut off
piece goods to the required breadth; cords or ropes have also been used.
Now the Invention consists in forming such binding, tape, or thick strong
fabric together or in one piece with the lining fabric, by weaving it in a ribbon
or other suitable loom, and with a greater or less width of fabric suitable for
lining the lower part of a dress or skirt. For these purposes the warp for
producing the lining fabric is arranged and worked in the ordinary manner for
producing a like fabric whilst at the selvage, or it may be at both selvages;
the warp is arranged to produce a strong tape or binding fabric of the width

page_text: desired, it being however preferred that the strong and thick fabric should not
extend quite to the edge or selvage, but that the warp should there be arranged
to produce a less thick and strong fabric in order that the needle may pass
freely in sewing the fabric to the bottom of a dress or skirt. The fabric is
wefted in the ordinary manner, the warp at and near the selvage being formed
into sheds suitable for producing a strong corded or other tie suitable for a
binder near the selvage of the lining fabric.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said William Staats in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
24th May 1865.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, WILLIAM
STAATS, of No. 76, Cannon Street West, in the City of London, send
greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Iler Letters
Patent, bearing date the Eighth day of February, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-five, in the twenty-eighth year of
Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto
me, the said William Staats, Her special licence that I, the said William
Statts, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the
said William Staats, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any
time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter
during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use,
exercise, and vend, within. the United Kingdom of Great Britain and
Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IM-
PROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF SKIRT BORDERINGS AND LININGS TO BE
APPLIED TO WEARING APPAREL," a communication. to me from abroad by Carl
Spannagel, a person resident at Barmen, in the Kingdom of Prussia, upon
the condition (amongst others) that I, the said William Staats, my executors
or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of
their hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature
of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and
cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six
calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters
Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said William Staats, do hereby declare the
nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be

page_text: performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement thereof, that is to say:-
Heretofore in making dresses for females they have been bound at their
lower or bottom edges with braids or tapes or narrow strips, such binding
being usually, but not in all cases, of comparatively strong and thick weavings
as compared with the fabrics of which a dress and its lining are composed.
Now this Invention consists in forming and weaving such binding, tape, or
strong narrow fabric in combination with a fabric to be used for lining a dress,
so that the part of the lining which comes near the lower or bottom edge of a
female's dress will have woven with it a strong narrow fabric suitable to form
the binder to the bottom edge of the dress in which such lining fabric is used.
When it is desired that the width of lining fabric should be comparatively
small as compared with the width of the loom employed, several widths of
lining fabric, each having its thick or strong fabric woven therewith suitable
for a binder, may be woven side by side as when weaving ribbons or narrow
goods, where several shuttles are carried by the batten. When, however, a
greater width of lining fabric is desired, then a loom suitable for weaving a
single piece or width with its thick or strong binder fabric near the selvago
'may be used. Or in place of using several shuttles, in order to produce
several widths of fabrics side by side in a wide loom, a single width of lining
fabric of a width coinciding with the loom may be woven in a manner
capable of being divided longitudinally into less widths, there being a series
of strong or thick binders woven in parallel stripes at intervals apart parallel
with each other, so that when the wide fabric is cut or divided longitudinally,
each width of fabric when separated from the others will have at one of its
edges a strong narrow fabric suitable for a binder; or a strong narrow binder
fabric may be produced at each of the two selvages of a weaving suitable for
a lining fabric, and then the fabric may be divided longitudinally so as to
form two pieces of lining fabric, each with a strong or thick binder fabric
near its selvages on one of its edges; or the strong or thick narrow binder
fabric may be woven or produced transversely of the fabric at intervals, and
the fabric afterwards divided transversely, but it is preferred in all cases that
the narrow binder fabric should be produced longitudinally of the lining fabric,
as by so doing more, and, if desired, a different class of warp threads may be
employed in producing the narrow binder fabric than are used for producing
a like width of the lining fabric which is combined therewith. Ordinarily
fabrics for lining females' dresses have been of plain or tabby weavings, but
in some cases twell weavings have been used for this purpose.
In carrying out this Invention the parts of the fabrics which are to con-

page_text: stitute the linings or parts of the linings of females' dresses may be of tabby
or other classes of weavings as heretofore, whilst the narrow parts or portions
thereof which are to be used as binders to the bottom edges of the dresses
may, and it is desirable that they should, be woven either as strong twells or
cords, or other strong forms of weaving. I would here state that I make no
claim to the weaving either of the two parts of a fabric, whether it be the lining
part or the binder part, when considered separate and apart the one from the
other, the peculiarity of this Invention consists in their combination in the
act of weaving, so that in making up a lady's dress, in place of having a
detached or separate narrow fabric for a binder to bind the bottom edge of
the dress the binder used forms part of the lining fabric, and in making a
dress it will be folded or lapped over or on the edge of the fabric of which
the dress is formed, and such binder fabric will be sewed to the lower edge of
the dress when applying the lining fabric thereto. In weaving lining fabrics
in conjunction with binder fabrics according to this Invention, whether the
binder fabrics are woven at the edge or in the midst of the lining fabrics, as
above explained, it is preferred, that there should be a small quantity or
narrow edge of a comparatively thin fabric corresponding in weaving with the
lining fabric, or of other form of weaving, outside or beyond the outer edge
of the narrow binder fabric, in order that the needles used in sewing the
binder fabrics, on the bottom edges of females' dresses may not be required
to pass through the thicker or stronger weavings constituting the binder fabrics;
this, however, although preferred, is not essential.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Staats, have hereunto set my
hand seal, this Twenty-second day of May, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-five.
STAATS. (L.B.)