Improvements in Sewing Machines for Cutting, Overseaming, and Barring Button Holes in Fabrics.
Year: 1887

page_text: Date of Application, 2nd June, 1887
Complete Left, 2nd Mar.,- 1888
Complete Accepted, 6th Apr., 1888
Improvements in Sewing Machines for Cutting, Overseaming, and
Barring Button Holes in Fabrics.
We, ALEXANDER ANDERSON, Manager, and ROBERT ANDREW FERGUSON POLLOCK,
Mechanic, both of the Singer Manufacturing Companys Works, Kilbowie, Dumbarton-
shire, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to sewing machines for cutting, overseaming and barring
buttonholes in fabrics, and it comprises improvements in devices for effecting the
operation of cutting the fabric to form the button hole as the sewing proceeds, for
feeding the fabric back and forth and cross wise so that both edges and ends of the
button hole are brought in proper order under the sewing needle, for regulating the
lateral movement imparted to the vertically reciprocating needle bar whereby in
overseaming the edges of the button-holes the needle passes alternately into the fabric
and into the hole cut in it and the button hole is barred, and for operating the shuttle
carrying the under thread, the several parts being arranged and combined and
constituting an organised button-hole sewing machine.
On the overhanging arm of the machine is fitted a bracket carrying a stud or
shaft lying transversely of said overhanging arm and having on it a barrel cam and a
feed wheel the latter being operated by a feed lever and connecting rod from a lever
on a transverse rock shaft fitted under the bracket arm and to which motion is
imparted by means of a lever acted on by a cam on the vertical shaft within the
bracket arm of the machine. The barrel cam which is pinned to and operated by the
feed wheel has in it three grooves, one in the periphery and one at each end. In
the peripheral groove of the cam barrel is fitted a pin or roller on a lever arm which is
hung at one end from the supporting bracket and adjustably connected at its opposite
D

page_text: end to a lever arm on a rock shaft said rock shaft having on its end an arm connected
to the presser bar which in the present instance is carried outside the bracket arm and
has jointed to its lower end a presser foot which serves as a feed bar. The peripheral
cam groove acting through the connecting levers on the presser bar moves the presser
foot or feed bar transversely of the work plate to feed the fabric back and forth under
the needle to the extent of the length of the button hole, whilst the cam groove in the
outer end of the cam barrel, acting on a pin or roller on a lever centred on the side of
the supporting bracket and having at its opposite end a roller entered between collars
or projections on the rock shaft, imparts to said rock shaft a longitudinal movement at
or near the termination of its rocking movement to traverse the feed plate crosswise
of the slit of the button hole so that after one edge has been overseamed the button
hole is barred at one end during the cross movement of the feed plate. By the action
of the central can the feed plate thereafter feeds back the fabric so that the edge of
the button hole adjoining that already overseamed is brought under the needle and on
the end of the button hole being reached the feed plate is again traversed cross wise of
the slit in order that the other end of the button hole may be barred. The third
groove in the barrel cam acts on a pin or roller on a forked bar embracing the cam
stud and having jointed to its end a link engaging a pin on a vertical cutter bar
carried in the face plate of the machine. On the jointed link is a projection which,
when the link is pushed outwards by the action of the cam, is struck by a tappet on
the needle bar in its descent, and through the connection of the link with the cutter
bar the latter is pushed downwards and a knife carried at its lower end is caused to
pierce the fabric in advance of the sewing needle. The cutter bar may be thus
depressed at each downward movement of the needle bar but as the needle has a lateral
or zig-zag motion imparted to it and descends twice for each movement of the feed
plate the tappet on the needle bar is preferably fitted to clear the projection on the
jointed link connected to the cutter bar in every alternate downward movement. The
knife or cutter is fitted adjustably on a bracket piece secured to the lower end of the
cutter bar and on said bracket is fitted a spring pressed foot bearing on the side of the
knife and adapted to press on and grip the edge of the fabric at the moment when
the knife pierces it. On the under side of the throat plate is or may be fitted a steel bar
having an upturned edge against which the side of the knife may bear in its descent
the knife and bar forming shears to clip the fabric. The lateral or zig-zag movement
of the needle bar is imparted to it by a link connected at one end to a rocking frame
on vertical pivots in the overhanging arm behind the face plate and in which frame
the needle bar reciprocates, whilst at its opposite end the link is connected to a slotted
lever on the rock shaft which gives motion to the feed wheel operating the cam barrel
herein before referred to. Near its forward end the link is slotted and connected by a
pin to a lever arm on a rock shaft centred under the overhanging arm and having on
it a lever carrying a pin or roller which enters a cam groove on the back of the feed
wheel. This cam groove is formed to tilt upwards the lever arms at each semi-revolu-
tion and thereby to throw up the rear end of the link connecting the needle bar frame
to the slotted actuating lever whereby a greater throw or extent of movement is
communicated to the rocking frame, and the needle makes longer stitches in barring
the button holes, the cam being timed to throw up the connecting link at the moment
when the button hole has been overseamed throughout its length and the barring
stitches commence. To overcome the weight of the link and its connections and
facilitate the lifting movement a counterbalance weight is fitted on an arm on the
rock shaft. The vertical reciprocation of the needle bar is effected in the usual way
by a pitman connected to a crank disc on the main driving shaft; and in order that
the feeding and other movements may be suitably timed to suit the double reciproca-
tion of the needle bar the vertical shaft is driven at half the speed of the main shaft
through speed reducing gear. Adjustment of the length of stitch for the overseaming
and barring operations for feeding and for the traverse lengthwise and cross wise of
the feed plate by which the length of button hole and the hold of the stitches on the
fabric is regulated, is provided for by connecting the operating parts through slotted
links and screws or similar devices.

page_text: The shuttle employed for the under thread may be of the oscillating or reciprocating
type and in the latter case it may be double pointed. The oscillating form of shuttle
is conveniently driven from a cam under the bed plate on the lower end of the main
vertical shaft, the cam being arranged to actuate a lever having on it a pin or roller
in the cam groove and the lever being jointed to a link or bar having on its extremity
a rack engaging a pinion on the shaft, to which the shuttle carrier is secured. In
using a reciprocating shuttle the requisite travel is obtained without making the cam
excessively large by connecting the cam lever to a rocking lever to which is jointed a
link connected to the shuttle slide, a double pointed shuttle being by preference
employed and adapted to pass through the loop of the needle thread at each
reciprocation.
Dotad this an of Tum 1007
CRUIKSHANK & FAIRWEATHER,
62, Saint Vincent Street, Glasgow,
Agents.

page_text: Improvements in Sewing Machines for Cutting, Overseaming, and
Barring Button Holes in Fabrics.
We, ALEXANDER ANDERSON, Manager and ROBERT ANDREW FERGUSON POLLOCK,
Mechanic both of the Singer Manufacturing Company's Works, Kilbowie,
Dumbartonshire, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement:―
This Invention relates to sewing machines for cutting over-seaming and barring
button holes in fabrics and it comprises improvements in devices for effecting the
operation of cutting the fabric to form the button hole as the sewing proceeds, for
feeding the fabric back and forth and cross wise so that both edges and ends of the
button hole are brought in proper order under the sewing needle, for regulating the
lateral movement imparted to the vertically reciprocating needle whereby in
overseaming the edges of the buttonholes the needle passes alternately into the fabric
and into the hole cut in it and the button hole is barred, and for operating the shuttle
carrying the under thread, the several parts being arranged and combined and
constituting an organised button hole sewing machine.
In the accompanying drawings figures 1 and 2 are elevations from opposite sides
and figure 3 is an end view of a sewing machine embo lying our improvements,
figure 4 is a sectional elevation of part of the overhanging arm showing several of tho
operating parts in detail, figure 5 is a horizontal section and figure 6 an end view of
the same with the cover plate removed and figure 7 to 9 are views of details of the
machine hereinafter referred to. On the overhanging arm A of the machine is fitted
a bracket a carrying a stud or shaft a lying transversely of said overhanging arm and
having on it a barrel cam B and a feed wheel (the latter being operated by a feed
leverd and connecting rod D from a lever D¹ on a transverse rock shaft d¹ fitted
under the bracket arm A and to which motion is imparted by means of a lever D³
acted on by a cam E¹ on the vertical shaft E within the bracket arm of the machine.
The barrel cam B which, as shown in detail at figures 4, 5, 7, 8 and 9, is pinned to
and operated by the feed wheel C has in it three grooves, one 6 in the periphery and
one 6, 63, at each end. In the peripheral groove of the cam barrel is fitted a pin or
roller fon a lever arm F which is hung at one end from the supporting bracket a and
adjustably connected at or near its opposite end to a lever arm G on a rock shaft g
said rock shaft having on its end an arm G¹ connected to the presser bar H which in the
present instance is carried outside the bracket arm A from a pivot pin h on the top
thereof and has jointed to its lower end a presser foot H' which serves as a feed bar. The
peripheral cam groove acting through the connecting lovers F, G, G', on the presser bar H
moves the presser foot or feed bar H transversely of the work plate to feed the fabric back
and forth under the needle to the extent of the length of the button hole whilst the cam
groove b¹ in the outer end of the cam barrel B acting on a pin or roller i on a lever I
centred on the side of the supporting bracket a and having at its opposite end a
roller i¹ entered between collars or projections on the rock shaft g imparts to said

page_text: rock shaft a longitudinal movement at or near the termination of its rocking movement
to traverse the feed plate H¹ crosswise of the slit of the button hole so that after one
edge has been overseained the button hole is barred at one end during the cross
movement of the feed plate. By the action of the central cam groove b the feed plate
thereafter feeds back the fabric so that the edge of the button hole adjoining that
already overseamed is brought under the needle and on the end of the button hole
being reached the feed plate H' is again traversed cross-wise of the slit in order that
the other end of the button hole may be barred. The third groove 62 in the barrel
cam B acts on a pin or roller on a forked bar J embracing a collar on the barrel
cam or on the cam stud a' and having jointed to its end a link Jengaging a pin k
on a vertical cutter bar K carried in the face plate of the machine as particularly
shown at figures 4, 5 and 6. On the jointed link J' is a projection j¹ which when the
link is pushed outwards by the action of the cam groove 6 is struck by a tappet 7 on
the needle bar L in its descent and through the connection of the link J' with the
cutter bar K the latter is pushed downwards and a knife k¹ carried at its lower end is
caused to pierce the fabric in advance of the sewing needle. The cutter bar K may
be thus depressed at each downward movement of the needle har L, but as the needle
has a lateral or zig-zag motion imparted to it and descends twice for each movement
of the feed plate the tappet on the needle bar is preferably fitted to clear the
projection on the jointed link J, connected to the cutter bar, in every alternate
downward movement. The knife or cutter k¹ is fitted adjustably on a bracket piece k²
secured to the lower end of the cutter bar and as shown at figures 4 and 6 on said
bracket is fitted a spring pressed foot a bearing on the side of the knife and
adapted to press on and grip the edge of the fabric at the moment when the knife
pierces it. On the under side of the throat plate M is or may be fitted a stee! bar m
having an upturned edge against which the side of the knife may bear in its descent
the knife and bar m forming shears to clip the fabric. The lateral or zig-zag
movement of the needle bar L is imparted to it by a link N connected at one end as
shown at figure 6 to a rocking frame O on vertical pivots o in the overhanging arm A
behind the face plate O' and in which frame the needle bar L reciprocates, whilst
at its opposite end the link N is connected to a slotted lever P on the rock shaft d'
which gives motion to the feed wheel C. Near its forward end the link N is slotted
at n and connected by a pin n' to a lever arm n² on a rock shaft n³ centered under the
overhanging arm and having on it a lever n carrying a pin or roller n' which enters
a cam groove c on the back of the feed wheel. This cam groove c as shown at
figures 4 and 7 is formed to tilt upwards the lever arms n² n¹ at each semi-revolution
and thereby to throw up the rear end of the link N connecting the needle bar frame O
to the slotted actuating lever P whereby a greater throw or extent of movement is
communicated to the rocking frame, and the needle inakes longer stitches in barring
the button holes the cam groove c being timed to throw up the connecting link N at
the moment when the button hole has been over-seamed throughout its length and the.
barring stitches commence. To overcome the weight of the link N and its connections
and facilitate the lifting movement a counterbalance weight Q is fitted on an army on
the rock shaft. The vertical reciprocation of the needle L is effected in the usual
way by a pitman connected to a crank disc R on the main driving shaft S and in
order that the feeding and other movements may be suitably timed to suit the double
reciprocation of the needle bar the vertical shaft E is driven at half the speed of the
main shaft through speed reducing gear e. Adjustment of the length of stitch for the
overseaming and barring operations is effected by forming on the end of the link N a
slot n in which is fitted a screw pin n' engaging the slot in the lever P and adjusting
the position of said pin in the slot n to obtain a greater or less throw of the link N.
Adjustment for feeding and for the length of traverse of the feed plate by which the
length of button hole and the distance apart of the stitches is regulated, is provided
for by forming slots in the levers G and F and connecting them by an adjusting
screw ; and adjustment for the crosswise movement of the feed plate is effected by
forming a slot in the lever I so that the pin connecting it to the collars on the
rock shaft g may be moved therein to impart a greater or less movement to said rock

page_text: shaft. The shuttle employed for the under thread may be of the oscillating or
reciprocating type and in the latter case it may be double pointed. The oscillating
form of shuttle is conveniently driven from a cam under the bed plate ou the lower
end of the main vertical shaft E the cam being arranged to actuate a lever having on
it a pin or roller in the cam groove and the lever being jointed to a link or bar
having on its extremity a rack engaging a pinion on the shaft to which the shuttle
carrier is secured. In using a reciprocating shuttle the requisite travel is obtained
without making the cam excessively large by connecting the cam lever to a rocking
lever to which is jointed a link connected to the shuttle slide, a double pointed shuttle
being by preference employed and adapted to pass through the loop of the needle
thread at each reciprocation.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what we
claim is:
1. The combination of parts constituting the improved button hole sewing machine
herein before described with reference to the drawings annexed.
2. In a button hole sewing machine the devices for effecting the operation of
cutting the fabric whilst the sewing proceeds the parts being arranged and combined
substantially as described.
3. In a button hole sewing machine the arrangement and combination of devices
substantially as described for feeding the fabric back and forth and crosswise during
the sewing operation for the purposes set forth.
4. In a button hole sewing machine the mechanism for regulating the lateral
movement of the needle bar arranged and combined substantially as described.
5. In a button hole sewing machine the combination of the rotating cam B, the
lever arm F acted on by the groove b in said cam the lever G and the presser bar H
substantially as described.
6. In a button hole sewing machine the combination of the rotating barrel
cam B having in it the grooves b, b', the lever F operated therefrom, levers G, G¹, on
the rock shaft g and the presser bar H, H¹, with the lever I also operated from the
cam B and acting on said rock shaft g substantially as and for the purpose set
forth.
7. In a button hole sewing machine the combination of the cam B fork bar J
link J¹ connecting the same and the cutter bar K the latter having on it a projection
adapted to be acted on by a tappet on the needle bar substantially as and for the
purpose set forth.
8. In a button hole sewing machine the combination with the cutter bar and its cutter
of the spring pressed foot adapted to grip the fabric and the bar m on the throat
plate substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
9. In a button hole sewing machine the combination with the mechanism for
imparting the zig-zag movement to the needle bar of the slotted lever P the link N
and levers n n connected thereto and the rotating cam e substantially as and for the
purpose set forth.
10. In a button hole sewing machine the combination with the cam E¹ on the
rotating shaft. E of the levers D1, D2, and P fitted on one rock shaft d¹ and connected
by the links N and D to simultaneously operate the feed wheel and impart the zig-zag
movement to the needle bar substantially as described.
Dated this First day of March 1888.
CRUIKSHANK & FAIRWEATHER,
62, Saint Vincent Street, Glasgow,
Agents.