CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN APARATUS FOR WEAVING, AND IN ARTICLES TO BE ATTACHED TO DRESSES
Year: 1849

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS. SHALL COME, I, the said
CHARLES ROWLEY, of Birmingham, in the County of Warwick, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellant Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date at Westminster,
the Twelfth day of October, One thousand eight hundred and forty-nine, in
the twelfth year of Her reign, did give and grant unto me, the said Charles
Rowley, my exors, admors, and assigns, Her especial license, full power, sole
priviledge and authority, that I, the said Charles Rowley, my exors, admors,
and assigns, should at any time agree with, and, no others, from time to time
and at all times hereafter during the term of years therein mentioned, should
and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within. England, Wales,
and the Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, and the Islands of Guernsey, Jersey,
Alderney, Sark, and Man, and also in all Her said Majesty's Colonies and
Plantations abroad, my Invention of "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN APARATUS
FOR WEAVING, AND IN ARTICLES TO BE ATTACHED TO DRESSES;" in which said
Letters Patent there is contained a proviso that I, the said Charles Rowley,
shall cause a particular description of my Invention, and in what manner
the same is to be performed, by an instrument in writing under my hand and
seal, to be enrolled in Her said Majesty's High Court of Chancery within six
calendar months. next and immediately after the date of the said in part
recited Letters Patent, reference being thereunto had, will more fully and at
large appear.

page_text: .
(that is to say) :-
My Invention consists,―
Firstly, in an improvement in weavers' mails.
Secondly, in the application of one Jacquared and mounting for the weaving
of two or more fabrics instead of having one Jacquared and mounting to
each piece as at present used.
them by
Thirdly, the weaving of corduroys and fustians with a figure upon
means of the Jacquared, and which improvement is also usefull for the
manufacture of coach lace and other trimmings.
Fourthly, for an improved four hole or trowser button, and an improved or
elastic shank for covered or Florentine buttons, which consists in making the
shank in the usual way, but of a well-known patent elastic material, it being
a woven fabric coated with a preparation of caoutchouc and used extensively
for trowser straps and other purposes, and being of an elastic nature it holds
the button close upon the garment when not in use.
Fifthly, for an improvement in shawl, breast, and other pins for fastening
dresses.
Sixthly, for an improvement in slides for india rubber bands and garters.
Seventhly, for an improvement in clasps and fastenings made from sheet or
rolled metal.
Eighthly, for the mode in which such clasps or fastenings are to be attached
to dresses.
But, in order that I may be fully understood, I will proceed to describe the
.Drawings here annexed.
Figures 1, 2, and 3, represent my improved mails drawn to an enlarged scale
in order that my improvement may be better exhibited, for it will be seen that
my improvement entirely consists in making the edges round, thereby pre-
venting the friction of the edges cutting the fibres of the threads. I effect
this in various ways; first, as shewn at Fig. 1, which after being cut out in the
proper form and pierced in the usual way, the outer and inner edges are then
'rounded off by means of dies and pressure, destroying the kean edges and pro-
ducing a ring or eyelet-hole appearance. (The tools used for effecting this object
were duly described in a Patent granted to me and James Turner, the fifteenth
day of November, One thousand eight hundred and forty-two, for giving the

page_text: same form to the holes of four-hole or trowser buttons.)
A is a longitudinal
section of the same. B a section, shewing its form before receiving this my
improvement. Fig. 2 is the same as Fig. 1, but the rounding of the edges is
formed by a different process, (viz.) a flange upon the outer edge and around
the edges of the holes being stamped up as shewn at C, and afterwards.
thrown down as at D, giving the same appearance when finished, as Fig. 1.
Fig. 3 represents the same description of mail made of two thin plates
of metal, the one in the form shewn in the section at E, and the other in the
form also shewn in the section at F, the two fitting one in the other; and the
flange closed down leaves this one also nearly of the same appearance when
finished as Figures 1 and 2, G being a section of the finished article. In
describing my improvement upon the ordinary method of putting up the
Jacquard with the mounting (in which a great height of room is necessary,
particularly in what is called a point Jacquar, where an altitude from the floor
of from 14 to 16 feet is frequently required); this I do not in the first instance
alter, but, as will be explained, this altitude only being required in the first
mounting of the Jacquard, every other fabric that may be woven by the same
Jacquared, requiring only sufficient height for the weaver to stand: and I
refer you to Fig. 4B. In this case all the parts of the loom are removed
(they being exactly the same as those at present in use), that all the parts
which I claim in my Invention may be better seen: a, a, is an ordinary
Jacquared frame standing upon the framework 6 at the top of the loom; c, the
necking; d, the mounting, which is only partially drawn; e, the comber board;
the lingoes which would be used in the ordinary manner, providing only one
loom was to be worked by the Jacquared; g, the lingoes in my improved manner
for two looms; or they might be through another floor, if three fabrics were
being woven by the same Jacquared; h the comber board for the second floor;
i, k, the crank shafts to each of the two looms; l, m, the tappet shafts;
n, n, n, n, the ordinary loom frames; 0, 0, 0, 0, the pinions on the crank shafts,
and wheels in the tappet shafts; p, q, p, q, four beviled wheels, which give an
uniform motion to each loom; r, an upright shaft which passes through the
floor s, s, carrying the beviled wheels, which may be elongated, through the next
floor X, X, for another loom if required; t another upright shaft, carrying upon
it two projecting pieces, which, when the shuttle weft breaks or the loom is
deranged, is acted upon by the pall under the batten, in the usual way, to throw
off the straps and stop the looms; there being only one driving power of
course all stop at the same time; w the fast and loose pulley to which the
strap. is applied as the moving power; y, y, y, y, the dotted lines, show that the
shaft and mounters may be elongated, and work the Jacquar for another

page_text: loom. The looms, as I have stated, are the same as used in all cases, but by
the arrangement as shewn, I do not require but one Jacquared and one set of
lingoes. The lingoes being always placed at the lower end of the mounter, as
seen at g, when two looms are worked, they are only shewn at f, that they may
be seen as they are in the present looms. The hole that is cut from floor to
floor to allow the passing of the cords of the mounting need only be the breadth
and width of it, which seldom exceeds 3 or 4 feet wide to 1 foot in thickness.
It will be seen that by this mode of arrangement a great saving will accrue in
the expense of Jacquards and mountings, as also room in their adoption; the
upper floor must necessarily be of the height requisite, those below of not
more than 6 or 7 feet.
.
Fig. 4 is a four-holed trowser button, the body being made of sheet iron,
which may be tinned or covered with a coating of zinc in the sheet
before cutting out or in the blanks, the process of stamping them into
form having the effect of planishing the surfaces, the front and edge is
then covered with a metal shell, which may be made of any metal or
alloys of metals, silvered or japanned in the usual way. I is a section of
the button when finished. I, a section of the shell. J, a section of the part
formed of iron. The advantages of this button are its great cheapness and
durability and its general smoothness and finished appearance.
Fig. 5 represents one of my shawl and breast pins, K being a sheath or
protector for the point attached to the chain, which chain at the top is
attached to a small tube, as shewn in section L. At the bottom of the tube
fixed to the inside of the
is fastened an elastic cord, the other end of which
top of the pin's head, and is defined by being coloured red, the object of which
is to keep the sheath on the point of the pin, when in use, by the contraction
of the elastic cord.
Fig. 6 is another representation of my shawl or breast pin. The elastic
cord in this instance is placed in the tube M, which tube m is drawn in
section at N, shewing the elastic cord and part of the chain.
Fig. 7 is also a shawl pin, the sheath of which is held in its position by
the contracting tendancy of the hardened wire to which it is attached.
Fig. 8 is a pin, which from its extreme simplicity and economy may be
used for many purposes. It as for its object, first, security, and secondly,
protecting the points, a desideratum much wanted in the case of their being
worn by children and others, preventing their fingers and persons from
punctures and lacerations, and are made of wire all in one piece. O repre-
sents the pin open ready for use; P, its form when in use; 9, a top or edge
view. The dotted lines at the head of O shows that an ornamental head may

page_text: be applied to this description of pin, if desirable; and it will also be seen at
O', P', and Q', that the part that covers the pin is intended to be planished,
giving greater protection to the point.
Fig. 8 a represents the same description of pin as described in the last
Figure, with an ornamental head, and the bar crankled, or may be otherwise
ornamented as it will appear when in use.
Fig. 9 represents a slide which may be made of steel or an alloy of metals,
to be applied to india rubber bands or garters, cut out of the sheet in a
circular form, having no joining. The opening in the bar at R allows
the india rubber to be passed through the slide, merely forming an ornament
upon the band or garter.
Figures 10, 11, 12, and 13, are fastenings cut out of sheet metal, all
similar in their mode of fastening, but showing the various ways in which
they may be attached to dresses.
Fig. 10 is a garter fastening; the only novelty in this article being, that,
instead of the apertures S and T being cut out, I free the metal upon the
side and ends, and turn it down, thereby forming a round and strong edge,
which prevents its cutting the web.
Fig. 11 is the same fastening upon a smaller scale, and intended as a substitute
for hooks and eyes. The novelty of this Figure simply consists in forming the
holes through which the thread passes to secure them to the garment with
round edges, or what may be termed ring holes, as described in Fig. 1.
The advantages of this fastening are many and important. First, its not
cutting the thread, which is the case with all fastenings hitherto made from
5 rolled or sheet metal; secondly, its flatness, which is desirable when in use,
and which also prevents its destruction from the pressure of the mangle or
iron. And lastly, its simplicity to fasten and security when fastened.
Fig. 12 shews a front and back view of the same fastening attached to tape
or any other suitable material for the backs of dresses; that part of the
o fastening through which the thread passes for securing it to the fabric is
here formed into the shank of an eyelet, which, passing through the tape,
may be closed down in the way French eyelets are applied, or may have a
back collar as the ordinary eyelet; and when great strength is required they
may be formed with double eyelets.
5 Fig. 13 represents the same fastening with slots formed as in Fig. 10,
so that they may be applied to narrow elastic web, which web may be
attached to any part or parts of a dress where elasticity may be desirable.
Having. thus described the nature of my Inventions, and the manner in
which they are to be carried into effect, I wish it to be understood,-

page_text: Firstly, that I claim the making of weavers' mails in such a manner that
the edges of the holes, as well as the outer edges, shall be round, as shewn
at Figures 1, 2, and 3, without reference to the method or process by which
the same may be effected.
Secondly, I claim the arranging of a Jacquard machine in the manner
described, so that it will work for two or more looms, and also the employment
of a Jacquared for weaving a pattern upon fustians, corduroys, coach lace, and
other trimmings.
Thirdly, I claim the making of a four-holed button, the body of which is
made of sheet iron, covering the surface with a metallic shell, as described.
Fourthly, I claim the making of the shanks of covered or Florentine buttons
of an elestic material, as described.
Fifthly, I claim the use of an elastic cord in connection with the sheath as
a protection for the points of shawl, breast, and other dress pins, such elastic
cord not being visible, as described in Figures 5 and 6.
Sixthly, I claim the protection of the points of shawl, breast, and other pins,
as described in Fig. 7.
Seventhly, I claim the mode of protecting the points, as described at
Figures 8 and 8 a.
Eighthly, I claim the making of slides for bands and garters, with an
opening in the centre bar.
Ninthly, I claim the method of forming a round edge for the web, tape, or
other material to ride upon in garter clasps, and other fastenings, as shewn in
Fig. 10, such fastenings being cut out of rolled or sheet metal.
Tenthly, I claim the making of the holes in such fastenings, as shewn at
Fig. 11, with round edges or ring holes, to prevent them cutting the threads in
the manner described in Figures 1 and 2, whether the fastenings be made as
here exhibited, or cut out in any other shape from sheet or rolled metal.
Eleventhly, I claim the mode of securing this description of fastening to
tape or other suitable material for dress backs, as shewn and described at
Fig. 12. And,
Lastly, I claim the application of elastic web to this fastener, as shewn and
described at Fig. 13.
In witness whereof, I, the said Charles Rowley, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Eleventh day of April, One thousand eight hundred
CHARLES ROWLEY. (L.S.)

page_text: AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the Eleventh day of April,
in the year of our Lord 1850, the aforesaid Charles Rowley came before
our said Lady the Queen in Her Chancery, and acknowledged the Speci-
fication aforesaid, and all and every thing therein contained and specified, in
form above written. And also the Specification aforesaid was stamped
according to the tenor of the Statute made for that purpose.
Enrolled the Twelfth day of April, in the year of our Lord One thousand
eight hundred and fifty.