IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ORNAMENTAL PILE FABRICS
Year: 1879

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to John Stewart Templeton, of Glasgow, in the County of
Lanark, North Britain, Manufacturer, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS
IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ORNAMENTAL PILE FABRICS."
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said John Stewart Templeton
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 9th October 1879.
JOHN STEWART TEMPLETON, of Glasgow, in the County of Lanark, North
Britain, Manufacturer. "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ORNAMENTAL
PILE FABRICS."
This Invention relates to ornamental pile fabrics of the kind in the weaving of
which a weft is generally employed, consisting of a pile, or fur material, or chenille
produced by a preparatory process of weaving. A mode of weaving such chenille
is described in the Specification of Letters Patent granted to James Templeton and
William Quiglay, and dated 25 July 1839 (No. 8169), and the object of the present
Invention is to produce the chenille in an improved manner.
The chenille is woven in widths which are subsequently cut into strips, and when
the chenille is particolored it is woven with variously colored wefts in such a way
that when it is incorporated in the final fabric its successive lines combine together
to produce the intended pattern or effect, all which is well understood.
As hitherto woven it has been found difficult to produce the chenille of such
uniformity and regularity as is desirable as regards the actual lengths of the various
portions of it; but by the present Invention the desired uniformity and regularity
are much more nearly approximated to, and in consequence the getting of the
various parts of a particolored pattern to assume their correct relative positions in
the final fabric is very much facilitated. The present improvements have also the
advantage of causing the worsted of which the fur or chenille is formed to show to
some extent on the back of the fabric, and thus avoid what has been considered a
defect in some varieties of such fabrics, the appearance of the worsted at the back
showing its secure fastening.

page_text: "D
In weaving the pile, or fur material, or chenille according to one modification
light binding" whip warps and heavier body warps are employed as before, and
the gauze weaving action is also employed to cause the pile or fur to turn up when
cut; but instead of the body warps being all alike and drawn off the same beam
some of them, for example the two central warps of each four appertaining to each
strip of chenille, are made heavier or stronger, and are drawn off a separate beam,
which is paced so as to put a considerable tention upon them. There are thus three
beams instead of two; one for the "whip" warps, the second for the lighter body
warps, and the third for the heavier body warps. Owing to the strength and
tension of the heavier body warps these warps remain straight, or nearly so, in the
chenille, and render it less liable to vary in length at different parts, whilst admitting
of the chenille of different looms being made more nearly alike as regards length,
and the same strength and tension by preventing the heavier body warps from
yielding to the weaving action make them hold the wefts, which pass under or
behind them so as to appear at the back.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said John Stewart Templeton in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 2nd
April 1880.
"
JOHN STEWART TEMPLETON, of Glasgow, in the County of Lanark, North
Britain, Manufacturer. IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ORNAMENTAL
PILE FABRICS."
My said Invention relates to ornamental pile fabrics of the kind in the weaving
of which a weft is generally employed, consisting of a pile, or fur material, or
chenille produced by a preparatory process of weaving. A mode of weaving such
chenille is described in the Specification of Letters Patent granted to James
Templeton and William Quiglay, and dated 25 July 1839 (No. 8169), and the
object of my present Invention is to produce the fur material or chenille in an
improved manner.
The fur material or chenille is woven in widths which are subsequently cut into
strips, and when the material is particolored it is woven with variously colored
wefts in such a way that when it is incorporated in the final fabric its successive
lines combine together to produce the intended pattern or effect, all which is well
understood.
As hitherto woven it has been found difficult to produce the fur material or
chenille of such uniformity and regularity as is desirable as regards the actual
lengths of the various portions of it, but by my present Invention the desired
uniformity and regularity are much more nearly approximated to, and in con-
sequence the getting of the various parts of a particolored pattern to assume their
correct relative positions in the final fabric is very much facilitated. My present
improvements have also the advantage of causing the worsted of which the fur or
chenille is formed to show to some extent on the back of the fabric, and thus avoid
what has been considered a defect in some varieties of such fabrics, the appearance
of the worsted at the back showing its secure fastening, and producing a close
resemblance to Oriental and similar fabrics in which the worsted is knotted in so
as to appear at the back.
"
In weaving the improved pile, or fur material, or chenille according to one modifi-
cation light binding or "whip" warps and beavier body warps are employed as
before, and the gauze weaving action is also employed to cause the pile or fur to
turn up when cut, but instead of the body warps being all alike and drawn off the
same beam some of them, for example the two central warps of each four
appertaining to each strip of chenille, are made heavier or stronger. and are drawn
off a separate beam which is paced so as to put a considerable tension upon them.
There are thus in one modification three beams instead of two; one for the "whip
warps, the second for the lighter body warps, and the third for the heavier body
warps. Owing to the strength and tension of the heavier body warps these warps
remain straight or nearly so in the chenille, and render it less liable to vary in
length at different parts, whilst admitting of the chenille of different looms being
made more nearly alike as regards length, and the same strength and tension by
preventing the heavier body warps from yielding to the weaving action make them
hold the wefts, which pass under or behind them so as to appear at the back.
Having thus particularly described my said Invention, and the manner of
performing the same, I have to state that I do not restrict myself to the precise
details herein before described or referred to, but that what I believe to be novel
and original, and claim as the Invention secured to me by and in terms of the
hereinbefore in part recited Letters Patent is,-
The employment in the manufacture of ornamental pile fabrics of an improved
weft of fur material or chenille produced by a preparatory process of weaving, in

page_text: which by a suitable disposition of and tension applied to some of the warps the
worsted or material forming the fur is made to appear on the underside, substantially
as herein before described.
In witness whereof, I, the said John Stewart Templeton, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this First day of April, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and eighty.
J. S. TEMPLETON. (LS.)