Improvements in the Manufacture of Welted Boots and Shoes.
Year: 1899

page_text: PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Welted Boots and Shoes.
I, JULIEN JEAN BIGOT, of 61, Rue Ordener, Paris, France, Boot Manufacturer,
do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
Up to the present time no one has been able to dispense with an inner sole of
leather when making hand sewn or welted boots and shoes notwithstanding the
drawbacks which accompany the process.
Now this invention relates to the manufacture of a novel kind of boots and
shoes (which latter are hereinafter referred to under the name of boots) whereby
the thick inner leather sole is replaced by merely a thickness of cloth or of other
stuff or material which is intended to hold the filling and the stiffener and to pre-
vent the spreading of the boot.
These boots have decided advantages over those hitherto hand sewn, the joining
of the upper and the welt is more durable than when an inner sole of leather
is provided and further the weight of the boot is considerably decreased while
at the same time the cost of production is lessened and the manufacture is ren-
dered more easy. Finally boots constructed according to this invention do not
pinch the foot as is the case where the seam of the inner sole always rises inside
under the influence of dampness.
The process of manufacture of this new boot which permits of the suppression of
the thick leather inner sole is based on the employment of a false inner sole of
erdboard or the like which is only utilized during the making of the boot and
which is removed when the welt has been sewn to the upper.
In order to manufacture these boots without a leather inner sole, a false inner sole
of carboard is used of the same form as the ordinary leather inner sole, but, as
will be easily understood, without grooving. An inner sole of fabric or other
suitable material is then cut, the dimensions of which are somewhat greater than
those of the false inner sole. The inner sole of fabric is then laid on one of the
sides of the false inner sole and the edges are flattened or turned over on the
other side and held thereon by pasting or sewing. The inner sole of fabric having
been thus prepared, the inner heel piece of leather or of cardboard which serves
for the attachment of the heel is fixed to the last by nailing or otherwise. The
inner sole and the false inner sole prepared as aforesaid are then similarly fixed
to the last care being taken that the inner sole shall be next to the last and the
false inner sole outside thereof.
This being done the upper is attached on the last by means of pegs or nails as
is usually done for hand sewing the edges of the inner sole are raised either by
tearing them away from the paste or by cutting the thread as the case may be.
The edges of the inner sole are then placed against those of the upper and the
fabric is tacked to the upper at about 1/8th of an inch from the edge of the false
inner sole. This being done the welt is sewn to the upper and the fabric and
it will be evident that it is much more easy to do the sewing exactly at the angle
to the bottom of the last than in the case of boots as heretofore constructed because

page_text: the thicknesses of the leather in a sole are dispensed with, besides the sewing
is stronger the stitches being shorter.
When the sewing of the welt is completed, the false inner sole is removed, the
filling and stiffening are applied and the outer sole is sewn on in the usual
manner.
It will be understood that instead of using an inner sole of cloth one of thin
skin may be employed.
This process of manufacture may naturally be applied to any kind of upper,
whether it be for high boots, lace up boots 'or shoes, button boots or shoes, side
springs' boots or shoes, slippers or the like.
Dated this houndth day
1000
Improvements in the Manufacture of Welted Boots and Shoes.
I, JULIEN JEAN BIGOT, of 61, Rue Ordener, Paris, France, Boot Manufacturer,
do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to
be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:
Up to the present time no one has been able to dispense with an inner sole of
leather when making handsewn or welted boots and shoes notwithstanding the
drawbacks which accompany the process.
Now this invention relates to the manufacture of a novel kind of boots and
shoes (which latter are hereinafter referred to under the name of boots) whereby
the thick inner leather sole is replaced by merely a thickness of cloth or of other
stuff or material which is intended to hold the filling and the stiffener and to pre-
vent the spreading of the boot.
These boots have decided advantages over those hitherto handsewn, the joining
of the upper and the welt is more durable than when an inner sole of leather
is provided and further the weight of the boot is considerably decreased while
at the same time the cost of production is lessened and the manufacture is ren-
dered more easy. Finally boots constructed according to this invention do not
pinch the foot as is the case where the sesm of the inner sole always rises inside
under the influence of dampness.
The process of manufacture of this new boot which permits of the suppression of
the thick leather inner sole is based on the employment of a false inner sole of
cardboard or the like which is only utilized during the making of the boot and
which is removed when the welt has been sown to the upper.
The accompanving drawing and the following description will render the method
of manufacture clear.
1
On the drawing Figure 1 represents in longitudinal section the lower part of
the upper and sole of a.boot.
Figure 2 is an inverted plan shewing the upper on the last before the inner
sole (which is made of any suitable fabric) has been sewn on.
Figures 3 to 7 inclusive are transverse sections shewing the boot during dif-
ferent phases of the process of manufacture. In order to manufacture these. boots
without a leather inner sole, a false inner sole a of cardboard is.used of the same
form as the ordinary leather inner sole, but, as will be easily, understood, without
grooving...An.inner. sole of fabric or other suitable material is then,cut, the
dimensions of which are somewhat greater than those of the false inner sole. The

page_text: inner sole 6 of fabric is then laid on one of the sides of the false inner sole a and
the edges are flattened or turned over on the other side and held thereon by past-
ing or sewing. Figures 2 and 3 shew the inner sole b with the edges turned over
and sewn together by means of the thread d. The inner sole 6 of fabric having
been thus prepared, the inner heel piece e of leather or of cardboard which serves
for the attachment of the heel is fixed to the last by nailing or otherwise. The
inner sole b and the false inner sole a prepared as aforesaid are then similarly
fixed to the last care being taken that the inner sole shall be next to the last and
the false inner sole outside thereof as clearly shewn in Figures 2 and 3.
This being done the upper h is attached on the last by means of pegs or nails
as is usually done for hand sewing, the edges c of the inner sole b are raised
either by tearing them away from the paste or by cutting the thread d as the case
may be. The edges c of the inner sole are then placed against those of the upper
and the fabric is tacked to the upper at about 1th of an inch from the edge of
the false inner sole as shewn at f Figure 4. This being done the welt g is sewn
to the upper and the fabric b and it will be evident that it is much more easy
to do the sewing at about right angles to the bottom of the last see Figure 5 than
in the case of boots as heretofore constructed because the thicknesses of the leather
inner sole are dispensed with, besides the sewing is stronger the stitches being
shorter.
When the sewing of the welt is completed, the false inner sole a is removed,
see Figure 6, the filling i and stiffening ; Figures 1 and 7 are applied and the
outer sole is sewn on in the usual manner.
It will be understood that instead of using an inner sole of cloth one of thin
skin may be employed.
This process of manufacture may naturally be applied to any kind of upper,
whether it be for high boots, lace up boots or shoes, button boots or shoes, side
springs' boots or shoes, slippers or the like.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is;-
1. A welted boot or shoe consisting of an upper, an outer sole, an inner heel
piece, a filling, a stiffening and a welt in combination with an inner sole of fabric
or thin skin of which the edge is flattened or turned over outside against the upper
substantially as set forth.
2. The process of manufacturing a welted boot or shoe consisting in attaching
to the last the inner heel piece, the inner sole of fabric or thin skin, a false inner
sole of cardboard or the like and the upper, raising or flattening the edges of the
inner sole against those of the upper, tacking these edges together at a short dis-
tance from the edge of the false inner sole sewing the welt to the upper and to
the inner sole, removing the false inner sole, applying the filling and the stiffen-
ing and sewing on the outer sole substantially as described and shewn.
Dated this Sixth day of November 1899.
JENSEN & SON,
77, Chancery Lane, London, W.C., Patent Agents.