IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF B0018 AND SHOES, AND IN MACHINERY EMPLOYED THEREIN
Year: 1869

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Benjamin Joseph Barnard Mills, of 35, South-
ampton Buildings, in the County of Middlesex, Patent Agent,
for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF B0018 AND
SHOES, AND IN MACHINERY EMPLOYED THEREIN."-A communication from
abroad by Everett Preston Richardson, of Lawrence, in the State
of Massachusetts, United States of America, Mechanical Engineer.
Sealed the 25th September 1869, and dated the 13th April 1869.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Benjamin Joseph
Barnard Mills at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with
his Petition, on the 13th April 1869.
I, BENJAMIN JOSEPH BARNARD MILLS, of 35, Southampton Buildings,
in the County of Middlesex, Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature
of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS
AND SHOES. AND IN MACHINERY EMPLOYED THEREIN," a communication to me
from abroad by Everett Preston Richardson, of Lawrence, in the State
of Massachusetts, United States of America, Mechanical Engineer, to
be as follows:-
This Invention relates in part to improved modes of sewing together
17

page_text: the soles and uppers of what are known as "turned shoes," they being
wrong side out while being sewed and afterwards turned. Parts of the
Invention are also applicable to sewing together the upper leather, the
insole, and the welt of boots and shoes in which a welt is used, and also
to sewing on the principal or outer soles of such boots and shoes.
The Invention relates further to mechanism for bringing the sole and
upper into proper positions for being sewed, holding them against the
action of the sewing mechanism, gripping them successively for each
stitch, and governing the points of entrance and exit of the needle or
other piercing instrument and the distance of the stitching from the
edge of the sole.
The features of novelty in the "turned" boot or shoc itself are that
its
upper and sole are connected by machine made stitches, which do not
pass entirely through the thickness of the sole, and further that the
chain or loops of the said stitches are imbedded or concealed in the
channel or groove which is formed in the sole previous to stitching boots
or shoes of the description referred to.
The looping and feeding mechanism and cast off may be similar to
those in other machines of this class in which a waxed thread is used
and a chain stitch made.
The upper leather and sole are secured in the ordinary manner upon a
last, which may be bevelled or grooved around the margin of its bottom
to afford room for the hooked end of a bar, which passes around the
edge of the sole and bears against the face thereof which is next the
last, and serves in connection with a vibrating bar whose end bears
against the outer face of the sole to clamp the sole firmly near its edge
for the purpose of holding it in proper position horizontally, and in some
classes of work to bend the sole at the time and place of stitching in
such a manner that a straight needle may be made to dip into the sole
and pass out on the same side or surface at which it enters, and then
through the
upper leather, without passing through the entire thickness
of the sole. The vertical guiding and holding of the work arc effected
by a stationary foot, the end of which enters the channel of the sole,
which is pressed upward against it in the inverted position in which the
boot or shoe is sewed, and by a vertically reciprocating table or throat
plate, which at every stitch is automatically pressed upward against the
upper" leather of the inverted shoe, so as to press the said upper
leather against the edge of the sole and the sole against the stationary
66

page_text: foot. The reciprocating throat plate is formed with a suitable aperture,
which the needle enters in its descent. While the needle is descending
through the work so as to form a stitch the work is firmly held both
horizontally and vertically by the gripping devices described, but when
the feed movement is to be imparted to the work the gripping devices
are retracted by suitable mechanism. The vertically reciprocating table
is required to adjust itself automatically to the thickness of the work,
and when so adjusted to afford an unyielding support to the work against
the thrust of the needle. For this purpose the said table is moved by a
lever controlled by a secondary bell-crank lever formed with an oblique
slot which works upon a pin projecting from the lever to which the table
or throat plate is attached. The bell crank lever by the action of a
suitable spring will through the medium of the slot and pin press the
table up against the work as far as it will go, and wherever it is arrested
by the work it will be firmly held by reason of the obliquity of the
bearing slot in the bell-crank lever. When the work is to be fed
forward the bell-crank lever is retracted by a cam or other suitable
mechanism, and this freely retracts the throat plate or table. The feed
movement may be produced by the needle by the thread or by
mechanism separate from both in any known and suitable manner.
The looping mechanism and other parts of the machinery which are
not herein described or particularly referred to may also be of any usual
and suitable kind. The bevelling or chamfering of the edge of the last
is not found to be necessary in order to accommodate the guide bar or
hook, but may be practised in some classes of work.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Benjamin Joseph Barnard Mills in the Great
Seal Patent Office on the 12th October 1869.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, BENJAMIN
JOSEPH BARNARD MILLS, of 35, Southampton Buildings, in the County
of Middlesex, Patent Agent, send greeting.
WHEREAS
Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Thirteenth day of April, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-nine, in the thirty-

page_text: second year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors,
give and grant unto me, the said Benjamin Joseph Barnard Mills, Her
special licence that I, the said Benjamin Joseph Barnard Mills, my
executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said
Benjamin Joseph Barnard Mills, my executors, administrators, and
assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to
time and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed,
should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the
United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands,
and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE
OF BOOTS AND SHOES, AND IN MACHINERY EMPLOYED THEREIN," a communication
to me from abroad by Everett Preston Richardson, of Lawrence, in the
State of Massachusetts, United States of America, Mechanical Engineer,
upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said Benjamin Joseph
Barnard Mills, my executors or administrators, by an instrument in
writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should
particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention,
and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same
to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months
next and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Benjamin Joseph Barnard Mills,
do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement thereof, that is to say:-
This invention relates in part to improved modes of sewing together
the soles and uppers of what are known as "turned shoes," they being
wrong side out while being sewed and afterwards turned. Parts of the
Invention are also applicable to the attaching together of the upper (or
vamp), the welt, the sole, and the insole, or any two or more of them
in turned and other shoes and boots.
The Invention relates further to mechanism for bringing the sole and
the upper into proper positions for being sewed, holding them against
the action of the sewing or piercing mechanism, gripping them succes-
sively for each stitch, and insuring the entrance and exit of the needle
or other piercing instrument at proper points, and regulating the distance
of the stitching from the edge of the sole.
The looping and feeding mechanism and the cast off (which is
employed to prevent the hooked needle from catching the same loop a

page_text: second time) may all be constructed and arranged in any manner which
is usual in machines of the same class in which a waxed thread is used
and a chain stitch made, or in any other proper way.
For manufacturing simple turned shoes without welts the upper
leather and sole are applied inside out to a last, which is preferably cham-
fered or grooved around the margin of its bottom to afford room for the
hooked end of a bar, which extending around the edge of the sole bears
against that face thereof which is next the last, and serves in conjunction
with a vibrating bar whose end bears against the outer face of the sole
or against the upper leather over the sole to clamp the sole firmly near
its edge for the purpose of holding it in proper position horizontally, and
in some classes of work to bend the sole at the time and place of
stitching in such a manner that a straight needle may be made to dip
into the sole and pass out on the same side or surface at which it enters,
and then through the upper leather without passing through the entire
thickness of the sole. The vertical guiding and holding of the work
are effected by a stationary foot, the end of which enters the channel of
the sole, which is pressed upward against it in the inverted or inclined
position in which the boot or shoe is sewed, and by a vertical recipro-
cating table or throat plate, which at every stitch is automatically pressed
upwards against the "upper" leather of the inverted shoe, so as to press
the said upper leather against the edge of the sole and the sole against
the stationary foot. The reciprocating throat plate is formed with a
suitable aperture, which the needle enters in its descent. While the
needle is descending through the work so as to form a stitch the work
is firmly held both horizontally and vertically by the gripping devices
described, but when the feed movement is to be imparted to the work
the gripping devices are retracted. The vertically reciprocating table is
made to adjust itself automatically to the thickness of the work, and
when so adjusted to afford an unyielding support to the work against
the thrust of the needle. For this purpose the said table is moved by
a lever controlled by a second lever formed with an oblique slot, which
works upon a pin projecting from the lever to which the table or throat
plate is attached. The secondary lever by the action of a suitable spring
and through the medium of the oblique slot and the pin presses the
table up against the work as far as it will go, and wherever it is arrested
by the work it is firmly held by reason of the obliquity of the bearing
slot. When the work is to be fed forward the secondary lever is retracted

page_text: by a cam or other suitable mechanism and freely retracts the throat
plate or table. The feed movement may be produced by the needle, by
the thread, or by mechanism separate from both in any known and
suitable manner.
The looping mechanism and other parts of the machinery which are
not herein described or particularly referred to may also be of any usual
and suitable kind. The grooving, bevelling, or chamfering of the edge
of the last is not found to be necessary in order to accommodate the
guide bar or hook, but may be practised in some classes of work. The
shoe, having been made with a single sole and turned, an additional sole
or half sole may be sewed or otherwise attached to the first sole as to
a welt. In some classes of work notches or indentations, one for
each stitch, are made in the sole instead of or in addition to the
customary channel for the reception of the thread. Such notches or
indentations are of great utility to insure the proper entrance of the
needle or other piercing instrument at the precise points required either
in hand or in machine work.
In welted work the notching, grooving, or channelling of one edge or
face of the welt itself (especially if the welt is attached to the sole
before it is secured to the upper or vamp) is very useful in preventing
the glancing or inaccurate entrance of the needle, which is liable to
occur from the oblique position of the welt while the upper is being
sewed thereto.
In the class of work last referred to a further improvement consists
in applying a welt either channelled or not to the front portion of the
sole, sothat the entire thickness may be available for wear and channelling
the shank and heel portions of the sole where no wear comes.
And in order that the Invention may be more clearly understood and
readily carried into effect, I will proceed aided by the accompanying
Drawings more fully to describe the same.
Figure 1 is an end elevation, and Figure 2 a front elevation of a
machine arranged to carry out the said Invention; Figure 3 is a section
at the line Y; Figures 4 and 5 represent sections of shoes prepared for
sewing; Figures 6 and 7, the same after being sewed and turned;
Figure 8, the needle and a section of the sole; Figure 9, a section of a
shoe, called thick edge or mock welt, after being turned the same as
shown in Figure 2; Figures 10 an edge and a plan view of the hook

page_text: gauge full size; Figure 11 is a perspective view of the improved last;
Figure 12 is a plan view of a sole and welt ready for the attachment of
the upper or vamp. Figures 13, 14, 15, 16, and 17 are fragmentary
sections of connected portions of the sole, welt, and upper illustrating
different modifications in the manner of preparing the welt; Figures 18
and 19 are transverse sectional views of the finished shoe or boot under
different modifications. Similar letters of reference indicate corresponding
parts in the several views.
A (Figures 1, 2, and 3) is the bed or frame of the machine; B, the
main shaft; C, the needle; and D, the needle bar, working in the
slide E, which has a movement at right angles to the shaft, being
actuated by a cam on the shaft, not shown, moving in one direction,
while the needle is in the work, and returning when the needle is
withdrawn, thus feeding the shoe along and constituting what is known
as the needle feed; Q is the looper, deriving its motion from a cam on
the shaft through the connecting rod V; the cast off is not shown.
The slotted plate P serves to force the work up to the foot H, and serves
the purpose of the throat in ordinary sewing machines, resisting the
thrust of the needle. The looper Q and the throat plate P are attached
to the moveable frame R, which is pivotted at rand is made to drop
down after the needle has entered the work by means of the cam T
and the slotted lever S, thereby releasing the work so that it can be
fed along by the needle, then, before the needle is withdrawn, the plate P
is brought back against the shoc by the action of the spring N, thus
adjusting itself to any variation in the width of the channel or in the
thickness of the upper, which from the thinnest parts to the part around
the heel in which there is a thick stiffening is considerable. The plate
or throat P is held up without severe pressure on the shoe, but very
firmly by means of the cam or wedge-shaped slot in the lever S, the
comparative slightness of the spring U contributing to the casy working
of the machine. Uniform pressure can be obtained by properly shaping
the slot in the lever S.
In Figure 2 is shown a section near the toe of a shoc adjusted for
sewing. a is the sole; b, the upper; and c, the last. The sole, being
previously shaped, has the channel d, d, cut at or nearly at an equal
listance from the edge all around on the flesh side of the sole or that
side which is to be inside when the shoc is finished. The channel may
be made either before or after the sole is tacked to the last, preferably

page_text: before. After the sole is tacked to the last the upper is put upon the
last and drawn over the edge of the sole with a sufficient margin for
sewing, and fastened temporarily by tacking, or in any convenient
manner; the shoe is then ready for sewing. This preparation for sewing
differs from that of hand work only that in hand work the channel is
raised or opened, and, for convenience and certainty, the holes usually
are made after the sole is attached to the last, but before the upper is
put on, these holes being followed by the awl, and the holes made in the
upper when the sewing is done. The holes are made in hand work by
a curved awl, made to enter the sole at the bottom of the channel and
come out at the surface of the sole near the edge. The sole is held to
the last near where the hole is being made, and the awl assisted in
coming through at the proper distance from the edge, by 'the thumb of
the left hand. When the awl is found to be coming out too near the edge
and the point cannot be raised sufficiently the sole is bent slightly over
the edge of the last the bottom of which is somewhat convex and
smaller than the sole.
In the present method of sewing that class of turned shoes known as
mock welts (Figures 2 and 9) in which the edge of the sole is left the
full thickness, not being chamfered off as in thin edges so called (Figures
5 and 7), but making the edge as thick as the leather will allow, the
bending of the sole is a prominent feature, by which means a passage
through the substance of the sole is made with a straight needle, which
passage after the needle is withdrawn and the sole straightened out will
be curved like the path of the curved awl in hand sewing. In this way
I avail myself of the many advantages in the use of a straight needle,
over any attempt to use a curved needle for this purpose. Attempts
have been made to provide for sewing with a straight needle by bending
the edges of the entire sole previously to sewing. There is much
difficulty in bringing the sole to this condition with uniformity, the
leather is besides much compressed, and a permanent set is put into it
to make it retain its position while the shoe is being sewn, which it is
very difficult or impossible to remove in finishing, while in my method
the sole is bent and held only for the making of one stitch, requiring
comparatively little pressure, and after the needle is withdrawn it
assumes nearly or quite its original shape, and very little if any bend
or compression is visible, and never more than can be readily
removed.

page_text: In the two classes of turned shoe sewing, known in the United States
as thin edges (Figure 7) and French edges (Figure 6) no bending of
the sole is required, the devices used to bend and hold it in mock welts
being used here only to grip and hold it.
In thin edges (Figures 5 and 7) the preparation for sewing is the
same except that the edge of the sole is chamfered off, then, when the
sole is moulded to the last, as it is done in hand work, making it
somewhat convex, there is enough of the substance of the sole projecting
when the edge is gripped and perhaps slightly compressed for sewing
without further bending.
In French edges so called (Figures 4 and 6) the sole is either
bevelled or left square at the edge and is left full thickness, and the
needle or the awl in hand work is made to enter at the bottom of the
channel and protrude at the edge between the two surfaces near
the surface which is to be outside when the shoe is finished, no
edge being visible after the shoe is turned. In this work the
hook gauge J determines the point at which the needle shall
come through and the sole is merely held up to the gauge by the
gripper I, which may have a spring interposed to allow for variation
in thickness of sole. In sewing mock welts the bending of the sole
is effected by the reciprocating bender and gripper I in connection with
the hook gauge J and the stationary foot H. The bender and gripper is
moved forward to grasp the sole by means of a suitable cam on the
shaft B and the lever L to a point adjustable by the set screw M, which
determines where the needle shall come through, and consequently the
distance of the line of sewing from the edge of the sole. When released
by the cam the bender I is carried back by the spring N.
the gauge J over which the sole is bent is between the sole and last,
for which purpose a portion of the last may be cut away all around,
thence passing out between the sole and the upper over the rest p, then
hooking on to the pin in the lower end of the bent lever K, at the other
end of which is a set screw for adjusting the gauge to different thick-
nesses of sole. In practice thin sheet steel is found to answer for this
gauge. The foot H serves to open the channel, to hold the sole in
position for the needle to enter at the bottom of the channel and to
partially resist the pull of the thread when the stitch is drawn in, and
also forms one of the three points of contact necessary in bending the sole.
The sole may be bent over the last instead of the gauge J if preferred,
The hook on

page_text: the last being held firmly in position for the needle to enter the channel
and at the proper angle, but there is less complication and more
certainty in the use of the gauge. This manner of gripping the sole
retains the shoe in position and prevents the compression or drawing
up of soft or thin stock between the channel and the edge, which
would result if it were held only by the foot in the channel when
the stitch was being drawn up instead of being grasped near the
edge.
The same devices! are used for holding and gauging in
the three different classes of work, with perhaps a slight variation in
shape.
In French edges the gauging, so that the needle shall protrude at the
edge of the sole at a proper and uniform distance from the surface
which is to be outside when the shoe is turned, is done by the hook
gauge J, which is fixed while the pressure to keep the sole against it
may be yielding; but in mock welts and thin edges the needle must
come out uniformly on the surface of the sole, which is to be inside
when the shoe is turned. It is therefore necessary that this surface of
the leather where the needle protrudes be brought to a fixed point at
every stitch.
This is done by the gripper I, which is brought to a
position for every stitch determined by the set screw M, thus forming
an effectual gauge, and in this case the hook gauge J. may be
yielding.
The needle (Figure 8) is another peculiarity of this machine. It is
straight and the point is on one side, being in a line or nearly so with
that side of the needle which is next the shoe, the object being to have
the displacement of the material caused by the entrance of the needle
wholly on that side of the needle opposite the shoe, that part of the
material being free to move while the other side or body of the sole is
held fast, and cannot yield (except slightly by compression), causing
the needle, if its point were central, to be deflected from the body of
the sole, and as different soles and different parts of the same sole are
more dense than others there would be different degrees in the spring-
ing of the needle, thus varying the distance from the edge of the sole
at which the needle emerges, causing unevenness in the sewing. The
shoe is held fast during the time the needle is out of the work by the
gripping devices. In order to remove the shoe after it is sewed and to
adjust another the needle is stopped while it is out of the work, and the
motion of the other parts of the machine is continued till the shoe is

page_text: released, which leaves the machine in position to receive another. This
is effected by throwing back the hook connecting rod G of the needle
bar D, releasing it from the pins in the needle lever F, allowing the
lever to proceed without the connecting rod, thus permitting the needle
to stand still while the other parts of the machine are in motion. The
connecting rod G is thrown back by a treadle or a handle in any
convenient place attached to a wire t. It is also provided with a set
screw, which adjusts the length of the loop for different lengths of
stitch and thickness of stock by changing the height to which the needle
is raised. W is the thread, and X the thread spring for taking up the
slack in the same.
The operation of the machine is as follows-The shoe is brought to
the position for sewing by first inserting the stationary foot H in the
channel d, then adjusting the gauge J between the last and upper and
hooking it on to the pin in the lever K, when the machine is ready to
start. The machine being then set in motion the throat P comes
up against the upper, then the bending and gripping device I comes
forward and grasps the sole, bringing it to a position to be properly
pierced by the needle, then the pin s in the needle lever F catches in
the notch of the connecting rod G, and the needle goes down through
the sole and upper. The bender and gripper and the throat are then
drawn back and the needle feeds the work along for the next stitch.
The gripper and throat again grasp the sole, and the thread is laid into
the hook of the needle by the looper Q and drawn up through the leather.
The feed slide E and the needle then return to be in position for the
next stitch and so on till the shoe is nearly sewn, when the gauge J
is unhooked from the lever K and pushed through and taken out at the
top of the shoe, the last being cut away for that purpose, as shewn at c³
(Figure 11), the one or two remaining stitches are taken, the connecting
rod G thrown back, and the machine turned slightly to release the shoe.
In sewing welted work the welt is sewed to the shoe by simply inserting
it between the upper and the throat P and guiding it in any suitable
manner.
Figure 12 represents another mode of preparing the sole according
to my Invention, the channel d being formed only around portions of
the sole where no wear comes, that is to say, at the shank or intermediate
part and at the rear part where the heel is afterwards applied. In this
class of work the welt e is secured to the sole a before sewing it to the

page_text: upper, and in order to insure the proper entrance of the needle without
glancing in the subsequent sewing of the upper to the welt the
Inventor forms in the edge or face of the said welt a channel e' or
notches, grooves, or indentations in lieu thereof, or both channel and
indentations may be used. Without such channel or equivalent device
great difficulty or uncertainty occurs in entering the needle or piercing
instrument accurately at the proper point while sewing the upper to the
welt, owing to the obliquity of the face of the welt with reference to
the path of the needle. The fragmentary sections, Figures 13, 14, 15, 16,
and 17, illustrate some of the many ways in which these channels or
grooves may be made. Each of the said Figures shews a part of the
sole, the channelled welt, and a part of the upper in the reversed
position in which it is secured to the welt. The welt e is attached to
the sole a by sewing, as represented, or by nailing or any other
equivalent or suitable means. If necessary or desirable the inner edge
of the welt may be fastened down by sewing, as shewn at f in Figure 17,
or by nailing, or other means to prevent pulling up in wearing. ein
Figures 15 and 17 shews an additional groove in the welt to receive the
edge of the upper. When the welt has been properly attached its
groove e will form in connection with the channel da continuous
channel extending completely around the sole, but not made in the
substance of the sole in any part which is exposed to wear. The work
may then be lasted inside out in any usual or proper manner, and the
upper b secured to the welte by stitches g (Figure 18) made by machinery
with either a straight or curved needle or awl or by hand.
Figures 13 to 17 dotted lines indicate the path of the needle. This
sewing being completed the shoe or boot may be turned and finished
with or without the addition of an insole or a second external sole,
either or both as the character of the work or other circumstances may
render desirable.
In
Figure 18 is a transverse sectional view of the shoe after it is turned
for finishing, and Figure 19 a similar view of a turned shoe with an
additional external sole as attached to its primary sole a as to a welt by
sewing, nailing, or other means. The external sole a³ may extend the
whole length of the primary sole, or may be a half sole. An insole h
may be added if desired. For this description of work the primary
sole a
(Figure 19) is preferably attached to the upper 6 by stitches
passing only partially through the sole, in the manner illustrated in
Figure 2.

page_text: Boots and shoes constructed in the manner last described possess the
durability, pliability, and other advantages of hand work. The cost of
lasting is much reduced and the sewing may all be done by machinery.
The insole and the intermediate sole a may both be made of cheap
material, as the former constitutes no integral part of the shoe, and the
latter is not exposed to wear.
The Invention is not necessarily limited to the precise details herein
laid down, but the same may be varied without departing from its
essential principles.
Having thus described the nature of the said Invention, and the
mode in which the same is carried into effect, I would have it under-
stood that what I claim is,―
Firstly. The hook J passing around the edge of the sole and employed
in connection with a clamp or bearing on the outside to grip the sole
transversely or in the direction of its thickness.
Secondly. The reciprocating device I constructed and employed
substantially as described for gripping or bending the sole.
Thirdly. The combination of the foot H and the gripping devices I, J,
substantially as set forth.
Fourthly. The throat plate plate P adapted to assume a position regu-
lated by the thickness of the work and afford an unyielding support
against the thrust of the needle or piercing instrument.
Fifthly. The combination of a spring U and a movable throat
plate P when the former is made to act on the latter through the
medium of an inclined or wedge-shaped connection so as to support
it at any position which it may automatically assume.
Sixthly. In combination with a sewing mechanism of any suitable
construction I claim a gripping mechanism operating substantially as
herein described to clamp the sole transversely between its channel and
edge, or to bend it at the time and place of sewing.
Seventhly. The adjustable connecting rod G. constructed and arranged
to operate substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
Eighthly. The detachable connecting rod or any substantially
equivalent device for stopping the needle while it is out of the work
when used in combination with a gripping mechanism, the continued
movement of which will automatically release the work so that the
same may be removed or inserted, as set forth.

page_text: Ninthly. The last c with a groove or cavity c¹ in its edge or margin
when used in combination with the hook J, substantially as and for
the purpose set forth.
Tenthly. The groove c formed in the last for the purpose of removing
the hook J, as described.
Eleventhly. The combination of a welt e applied to the front portion
of a sole for boots or shoes with a groove or channel extending around
the rear portion thereof.
Twelfthly. The notched, grooved, or channelled welt e, e', (Figures 12
13, 14, 15, 16, 17, and 18) employed in the manner set forth.
Thirteenthly. A turned shoe having a primary sole a attached to its
upper b by stitches dipping into the said sole without extending through
its entire thickness and a partial or entire supplementary sole a² attached
to the sole a.
Fourteenthly. The hooked needle (Figure 8) constructed with a
straight side toward the work and a tapering or oblique side toward the
machine, substantially as represented for the purpose specified.
In witness whereof, I, the said Benjamin Joseph Barnard Mills,
have hereunto set my hand and seal, this Eleventh day of
October, in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred
and sixty-nine.
B. J. B. MILLS. (L.S.)