Improvements in the Manufacture of Double Woven Velvet and Plush Goods.
Year: 1889

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Double Woven Velvet and
Plush Goods.
We HERMANN MÜLLERS and ARTHUR SPINDLER both of 4 Reiterstrasse, Dülken in
the Kingdom of Prussia, Empire of Germany, Manufacturers, do hereby declare the
nature of this Invention and in what manner the same is to be performed to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement and
accompanying drawings
Our said Invention relates to the manufacture of double woven velvet and plush
goods. In weaving double fabrics of the indicated description, the pile threads are
woven into both warps and extend between the two warps so that the fabrics are
connected by the said pile threads. We find that goods so woven, do not possess
when cut, the same finish and appearance apparent in goods which have been woven
singly with binding wires or blades or the like in the pile warp as is well understood.
We have therefore devised a novel method of weaving such goods so that the cutting
of the pile is performed under more favourable conditions and with an improved
result.
To render our invention more clear we have in the accompanying drawings
illustrated a single pile fabric as ordinarily woven with wires or cutting blades in the
pile warp and as shown in cross section at Fig. 1.
Fig. 2 is a cross section of a double pile fabric woven in the usual manner.
Fig. 3 is a cross section of a double fabric woven according to our improved
method.
In Fig. 1 the pile warp a is woven into the warp c and over the cutting blades d in
the usual manner.
In Fig. 2 the pile warp a is woven into the two warps c. c¹ and connects the double
fabric which is afterwards dissevered by cutting the warp a at or about the dotted
line e.
The different angles of the pile warps a extending between the two warps
cause the cutting to be performed under unfavourable conditions and cause unequal
ID 77

page_text: lengths of pile whereby the appearance of the finished article is wanting in smoothness
and finish.
In our improved method of weaving, illustrated at Fig. 3 the pile warps b are woven
into the warps c. c¹ but instead of crossing from the upper to the lower warp as in
Fig. 2 the said warps are looped into each other or knitted together between the
warps as clearly indicated in Fig. 3. A double fabric woven in this manner presents
the pile warp in an almost perpendicular position to the action of the reciprocating
cutting knife which is operated in the plane indicated by the dotted line e Fig. 3.
This looping is produced by means of the looper device described below and illustrated
by side elevations in Figs. 4-11. For this looping there aro required two shafts
for the ground warp No. 2 and 3, two carrier shafts No. 1 and 4, and two looper
shafts a and b the healds of which pass through the cyclets of those of the carrier
shafts. The carrier shafts and the fooper shafts are suspended by a cord passing
round the roller e in such a manner that when the carrier shaft is pulled the looper
healds are drawn through the eyelets of the carrier shaft until the ends reach the
eyelets of the carrier shaft.
In order to prevent the tearing of the healds of the looper shafts and at the same
time to permit of the looper shaft rising with the carrier shaft a spiral spring d is
connected to the axis of the roller c so as to come into action when the ends of the
looper healds reach the eyelets of the carrier shaft, (Fig 5) and have to rise or fall
with the carrier shaft (Fig. 6).
Each pile thread is not only passed through an eye of one of the healds of the shaft
for the ground warp but also through an eye of the looper shaft in such a way
that when the shafts for the ground warp rise the looper healds are drawn out of
the eyelets of the carrier shafts. To enable the pile threads to draw out the looper
healds from the eyelets of the carrier shaft more easily the carrier shafts must be
slackened for picks 5 and 1. The spiral spring e hanging between the carrier shaft
and the looper shaft keeps the cord on the roller tight and also causes the pile
threads to have merely to drag the healds of the looper shaft and not the staves
as well.
As may be seen from Fig. 3 the pile threads for three picks are woven in the
ground tissues and are then suddenly looped to form the pile, the next three picks
are woven in the ground tissues and so on. The looping device the action of which
is followed out pick by pick in Figs. 4-11 is therefore so applied that the front
carrier shafts 1 and 4 with the looper healds a and b effect the looping and binding
of the pile threads in the ground tissues for the succeeding three picks while the
ground warp shafts 2 and 3 effect the back looping of the pile threads and the
binding into the ground tissues for the next three picks. The shafts 5 and 6 serve
to produce the ground tissue. Fig. 5 is the position between the first and second
picks. Fig. 9 the position between the fourth and fifth picks. These two positions
show clearly how the looping is effected.
It can be seen from figures 6. 7 and 8 how the carrier shafts 1 and 4 with the
loop healds a and b hanging therein effect the binding of the pile threads into the
ground tissue for the second, third and fourth picks while from Figs. 10. 11. and 4 it
can be seen how after the back looping the pile threads are now moved by the ground
warp shafts 2 and 3 for the fifth, sixth and first picks.
By this looping of the pile threads over each other the following results are
obtained.
1. The required connection between the two tissues to form the pile is obtained.
2. Each pile thread & can be woven separately into the upper and lower tissues.
3. The pile threads acquire a nearly vertical position.
The double tissues which are thus produced are cut in the usual manner by a
reciprocating knife and imperfectly cut threads or uncut loops are opened on the
shearing machine. Naturally every other kind of velvet or plush binding can be
advantageously produced in this new manner. The pile cut in this position has a
more even and finished appearance than when cut under the conditions presented a
Fig. 2.

page_text: Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what we
claim is
In the manufacture of double woven velvet and plush goods causing the pile threads
in one warp to be looped, knitted or connected to the pile threads in the other warp
(instead of connecting the two warps directly by the same pile threads) and thus
presenting the pile threads at right angles or nearly at right angles to the plane of
the dividing knife with the objects and substantially as hereinbefore described and
shown.
DUTTON & FULTON,
1, St. James Square, Manchester,
Agents.