IMPROVED MEANS OF AND APPARATUS FOR PRODUCING ORNAMENTS AND DESIGNS, ALSO GOFFERS, PLAITS, AND CRIMPS IN RIBBONS, AND OTHER FABRICS AND CORDS
Year: 1874

page_text: PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by Hesketh Hughes at the Office
of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
31st January 1874.
I, HESKETH HUGHES, of Homerton, in the County of Middlesex,
and of Birmingham, in the County of Warwick, Engineer, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVED MEANS OF AND
APPARATUS FOR PRODUCING ORNAMENTS AND DESIGNS, ALSO GOFFERS, PLAITS, AND
CRIMPS IN RIBBONS, AND OTHER FABRICS AND CORDS," to be as follows :-
―:
This Invention relates to improved means of and apparatus for pro-
ducing ornaments and designs, also goffers, plaits, and crimps in ribbons
and other fabrics and cords, whereby,―
Firstly. Diagonal angular crimping and other shapes graduated or not
can be produced by chain goffering machines upon fabrics.
Secondly. To the formation of leaves or pattern_formers for diagonal,
or angular, and other shapes of crimping and goffering in chain
machines.
Thirdly. To the employment of hinged pattern formers in or on chain
goffering machines,

page_text: Fourthly. To an arrangement and employment of linked pattern
formers for chain goffering machines.
Fifthly. To an arrangement and employment of compound linked
pattern formers for chain goffering machines.
Sixthly. To means and apparatus for goffering and embossing the
edges and other parts of fabrics, or the production of designs thereon
when in connection with chain goffering machines.
My Invention consists in an arrangement of pattern formers in a
diagonal or angular position to the axis of the pinions, and stretching
rollers of chain goffering, plaiting, or crimping machines, the diagonal
pattern former is fixed preferably in the centre of the chains upon a
suitable bearing of sufficient strength to bear the strain of the work, and
at a proper height from the base of the chain to allow of the rising and
falling motion incidental to the action of (passing into and out of) the
machine. A double diagonal goffer, plait, or crimp may be constructed
as above, but to obviate the tilting action of the pattern formers and
obtain a smoother or more even motion at either end of the endless
chains, I fix suitable bearings in the chains on one or both sides or in
the centre of the chains, according to the effect desired, with a hinged
joint, same as an ordinary swing gate, and attach the pattern former so
that as it enters the machine it will move on the hinge or joint at the
proper point to pass over the pinions or rollers at either end of the
machine, and to take up the diagonal position required. This I effect by
a link in the chain which I attach to the swinging pattern former, or by
tail pieces coming into contact with cams fixed in the proper position to
move the pattern former to the angle, or diagonal, or other design required.
By this compound linking of the pattern formers I can vary the designs
and produce novel effects in great many ways.
Another portion of my Invention consists in arranging the endless
chains of goffering, plaiting, and crimping machines so that one side of
the machine is open to admit of embossing rollers being fixed in such a
position as to impart their design to the edges or other point of the
trimming whilst being goffered, plaited, or crimped.
For making cap fronts, ruffles, and the like, which are of a short
length I use creasing irons of a suitable shape to fix the goffer folds, or
designs, or to prepare them for the operation of sewing.

page_text: In some cases I use a single endless chain carrying pattern formers or
leaves hinged or flapped in conjunction with a roller to press the hinged
pattern formers down upon the previously goffered, plaited, or crimped
fabric to prepare as above described for sewing.
Guides are employed to prevent the folds becoming disarranged and
thereby puckering the fabric as it enters the machine.
The production of plaited, crimped, or other designs with angular
folds, puff centres, and flat sides or ends is a specialty which I desire to
claim, and especially the formation of such goods upon ordinary chain
goffering machines.