Improvements in the Construction of Garments known as Combinations.
Year: 1898

page_text: PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Construction of Garments known as
Combinations.
We, JAMES BONSOR, and HENRY BRIGHT ASHFORD, trading as Bonsor and Ash-
ford, at 12, Wood Street, in the City of London, and Buccleuch Works, Hawick,
N.B., do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
The garment is formed as an ordinary made combination which has no fork
opening at front but an opening up the back closed by a flap which extends
upwards from the bottom of the opening and buttons to the back just above the
top of the opening. To this we add an inner flap hanging down from the top
of the opening which forms a valuable protection to the spine-further protection
may also be given if desired by side flaps extending inwards from the sides of the
opening.
The central portion of the lower part of the outer flap which extends upwards
from the lower part of the back opening we form with a gusset extending down-
wards from it the edge of which is sewn to the edges of the commencement of
the front and back of the leg pieces so making the lower part of the flap bag
shaped, enabling the wearer to sit down in comfort and giving greater freedom
for moving the legs when walking cycling or the like.
Such a knitted garment we form in a flat bar knitting machine in the following
manner: A length of fabric of the required width and length for forming the
inner or hanging flap is first formed on the needles and is left upon the needles
but pressed down so as to be put out of work. The formation of the outer flap
and back of the garment is then commenced. It is begun at the commencement
of the narrowings for shaping the haunch-it is formed in two parts upon the
same row of needles upon which the inner flap was formed and upon other needles
at each end of this row.
One part of the flap and one side piece of the back are first formed upon the
needles which have the inner flap upon them and the needles which are at one
end of them. The portion of the work which is to form part of the flap is then
taken off the needles the others remaining on. The other part of the flap and
the other side portion of the back are then formed on the needles which have
the inner flap upon them and the needles at the other end of them. The portion
of work which is to form part of the flap is taken off from them and the inner
wrap which during this time has remained upon the needles is then raised into
position to have further work formed upon it and work is now formed right across
the back of the garment forming a continuation of the inner flap and of the two
side portions of the back which are on each side of it.
Work is then continued up the back and down the front to the beginning of
the front portion of the legs as in making ordinary combinations.
Afterwards the work is taken off the needles and then the loops of the com-

page_text: mencement of one side piece of the back and some of the adjoining loops of the
commencement of that portion of the flap which is formed in one piece with it
are put on the needles together with some of the loops at the lower end of the
front and one leg piece is formed the front and back parts of which are formed
all in one. The other leg piece is afterwards similarly formed and then those
loops of the two portions of the flap which do not have any portion of the leg
piece formed upon them are put upon the needles and a gusset piece is formed
upon them somewhat in the form of a semicircle, the semicircular edge of this
gusset is then sewn to the edges of the front and back portions of the com-
mencement of the leg pieces as above explained. Slits are afterwards made in
the work to divide the two portions of the flap from the two side pieces of the
back and the upper edge of the two portions of the flap are puckered or gathered
together so as to make the flap at the top approximately of the same width as the
opening and the two abutting edges of the two portions of the flap where they
meet are sewn together.
This way of forming the flap together with the gusset at its lower end gives
great freedom and ease.
For cut garments that is garments cut from material made by the yard
whether in hosiery, webbing, flannel or long cloth or similar material the parts
of the garments would be cut to similar forms to those produced in the above
way.
Dated this 22nd day of October 1898"
JAMES BONSOR,
H. B. ASHFORD.
CUALI DEIL SIECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Construction of Garments known as
Combinations.
We, JAMES BONSOR, and HENRY BRIGHT ASHFORD, trading as Bonsor and Ash-
ford, at 12, Wood Street, in the City of London, and Buccleuch Works, Hawick,
N.B., do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the
same is to be performed. to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement:-
--
い
The drawings Figures 1, 2 and 3 show a garment made according to. our
invention.
Figure 1 is a front view, Figure 2 a back view and Figure 3 a back view with
the outer flap unbuttoned and hanging down.
The garment is formed as an ordinary made combination which has no fork
opening at front but an opening up the back closed by a flap. which extends
upwards from the bottom of the opening and buttons to the back just above
the top of the opening. To this we add an inner flap hanging down from the
top of the opening which forms a valuable protection to the spine-further pro-
tection may also be given if desired by side flaps extending inwards from the
sides of the opening.
2
The central portion of the lower part of the outer flap which extends upwards
from the lower part of the back opening we form with a gusset.c
downwards from it the edge of which is sewn to the edges of the commencement
extending
of the front and back of the leg pieces d'so, making the lower part of the-flap
bag shaped, enabling the wearer to sit down in comfort and giving, greater
freedom for moving the legs when walking cycling or the. like.

page_text: Such a knitted garment we form in a flat bar knitting machine in the
following manner; A length of fabric of the required width and length for
forming the inner or hanging flap is first formed on the needles e to f as
indicated by diagram A, zz indicating the line of needles, and is left upon
the needles but pressed down so as to be put out of work. The formation of
the outer flap and back of the garment is then commenced. It is begun on
the line, x. Figures 1 and 2 at the commencement of the narrowings for
shaping the haunch-it is formed in two parts upon the same row of needles
upon which the inner flap was formed and upon other needles at each end of
this row.
One part of the flap and one side piece of the back are first formed as indicated
in full lines in diagram B upon some of the needles e to f which have the inner
flap upon them and the needles f to h which are at one end of them. The
loops of the portion of the work which is to form part of the flap are then taken
off the needles the others on the right hand side off remaining on and pressed
down out of work. The other part of the flap and the other side portion of the
back are then formed on the needles i to k in the same way. The portion of
work which is to form part of the flap is taken off from the needles and the inner
wrap which during this time has remained upon the needles e to f is then raised
into position to have further work formed upon it and work is now formed right
across the back of the garment as indicated in diagram C forming a continuation
of the inner flap and of the two side portions of the back which are on each
side of it.
Work is then continued up the back and down the front to the line y Y
Figure 2 that is to the beginning of the front portion of the legs as in making
ordinary combinations.
The
Afterwards the work is taken off the needles and then as indicated in diagram 1)
the loops of the commencement of one side piece of the back and some of the
adjoining loops of the commencement of that portion of the flap which is formed
in one piece with it that is the loops which were first produced as in diagram B
on the needles h to 7 and which in diagram D are marked m n are put on the
needles and straight work is produced to continue the work from the line
Figure 2 to the line yy, half of the loops at the lower end of the front are then
put on to the needles p to r as indicated in diagram E and one leg piece is
formed the front and back parts of the leg pieces being formed all in one.
other leg piece is afterwards similarly formed-and then those loops of the two
portions of the flap which do not have any portion of the leg piece formed upon
them that is the portions of work commenced on needles 7, 9 and 7, i are put upon
the needles and the gusset piece is formed upon them somewhat in the form
of a semicircle as illustrated in diagram F, the semicircular edge of this gusset
is then sewn to the edges of the front and back portions of the commencement
of the leg pieces as above explained and as indicated in Figures 1, 2 and 3. Slits
are afterwards made in the work to divide the two portions of the flap from the
two side pieces of the back and the upper edge of the two portions of the flap
which together are of greater width than the inner flap are puckered or gathered
together so as to make the flap at the top approximately of the same width as
the opening and the two abutting edges of the two portions of the flap where
they meet are sewn together. Side flaps of calico or other material are also sewn
on to the inner edges of the two side pieces of the back as indicated in Figures 2
and 3.
This way of forming the outer flap together with the gusset at its lower end
gives great freedom and ease.
For cut garments that is garments cut from materials made by the yard
whether in hosiery, webbing, flannel or long cloth or similar material the parts
of the garments would be cut to similar forms to those produced in the above
way.

page_text: Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what
we claim is :-.
11. A combination garment formed as illustrated at Figures 1, 2 and 3.
2. The manufacture of combination garments formed as illustrated in Figures 1,
2 and 3 on flat bar knitting machines in the manner illustrated in diagrams A to F.
JAMES BONSOR.
H. B. ASHFORD.