IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANU- FACTURE OF ORNAMENTAL FRILLINGS
Year: 1878

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Edward Jessett Earle, of Cheapside, in the City of
London, Merchant, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANU-
FACTURE OF ORNAMENTAL FRILLINGS." The result partly of a cominunication
from abroad by Jacob Steiger, of Herisau, Switzerland, and partly of Invention
and discovery made by himself.
Scaled the 14th January 1879, and dated the 16th July 1878.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Edward Jessett Earle at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 16th July 1878.
EDWARD JESSETT EARLE, of Cheapside, in the City of London, Merchant.
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ORNAMENTAL FRILLINGS." [The result
partly of a communication from abroad by Jacob Steiger, of Herisau, Switzerland,
and partly of Invention and discovery made by himself.]
The object of this Invention is to produce with great facility ornamental frillings
with embroidered edges. To this end I weave into the fabric (from which the
frilling is to be formed) threads which I will call frilling threads, because it is by
means of these threads that the embroidered fabric when cut up into strips of the
desired width, may be gathered up so as to form frills or ruffles suitable for attach-
ment to ladies' apparel.
These frilling threads may be introduced either as warp threads or as weft
threads; but in whatever way they may be introduced into the fabric they must
be independent of the ordinary warp or weft threads.
It has been found in practice that pieces in lengths of from 4 to 4 yards are
sufficiently long for ordinary purposes, and as fabrics of this width can be woven
in existing looms no special mechanism will be required beyond an arrangement
for throwing an additional shuttle from time to time at given intervals, for the .
purpose of introducing the frilling thread as a weft thread.
If the frilling threads are to be parallel to the ordinary warp threads they should
be wound on bobbins or on a beam, to keep them separate from the ordinary warp
threads.

page_text: These frilling threads may be of different material and of greater strength than
the other warp threads, and as they are not required to form a shed they may be
all raised and lowered by means of a single heddle.
This
Instead of the frilling threads being woven into the fabric by plain weaving,
they may be woven in veinings produced in the fabric while being woven.
will give an additional ornamental appearance to the embroidered frilling.
Another mode of introducing the frilling thread is by forming a tube round a
suitable thread or cord during the weaving operation, so as to enclose the thread or
cord in the tube without causing it to be interwoven into the fabric.
In whatever way the frilling threads are combined with the foundation fabric
they must be introduced at given distances apart, according to the width or breadth
of the intended ornamental frilling.
The fabric prepared in either of the ways above mentioned is then placed in an
embroidering machine; and the pattern to form the edging of the frilling is em-
broidered thereon in the usual manner of making a pattern on a fabric by an
embroidery machine. The embroidered fabric may then be cut up into strips, and
the edges trimined and finished with a pair of scissors. The embroidered frilling is
then ready for use, and may be "gathered" up to any desired extent so as to form
a frill or ruffle by holding on the frilling, and then pushing up the fabric thereon
in the same way as when a frilling thread is introduced by hand.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said Edward Jessett Earle in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 16th
January 1879.
EDWARD JESSETT EARLE, of Cheapside, in the City of London, Merchant.
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ORNAMENTAL FRILLINGS." Being
partly my Invention, and partly a communication from Jacob Steiger, of Herisau,
Switzerland.
The object of this Invention is to produce with great facility ornamental frillings
with "Swiss embroidered edges." To this end I weave into the fabric (and from
which the frilling is to be formed) threads, which I will call frilling threads, because
it is by means of these threads that the embroidered fabric when cut up into strips of
the desired width may be gathered up so as to form frills or ruffles suitable for
attachment to ladies' apparel.
These frilling threads may be introduced either as warp threads or as weft
threads, but in whatever way introduced into the fabric they must be independent
of the ordinary warp or weft threads.
It has been found in practice that piece goods of from four to four and a half
yards in width, when severed transversely, will serve for ordinary purposes, and as
fabrics of this width can be woven in existing looms no special mechanism will be
required beyound an arrangement for throwing an additional shuttle from time to
time at given intervals, for the purpose of introducing the frilling thread as a weft
thread.
If the frilling threads are to be parallel to the ordinary warp threads they
should be wound on bobbins or on a beam, to keep them separate from the ordinary
warp threads.
These frilling threads should be of different material and of greater strength than
the other warp threads, and as they are not required to form a shed they may be
all raised and lowered by means of a single heddle.
Instead of the frilling threads being woven into the fabric by plain weaving,
they may be introduced into veinings produced in the fabric while being woven.
This will give an additional ornamental appearance to the embroidered frilling.
Another mode of introducing the frilling thread is by forming a tube round a
suitable thread or cord during the weaving operation, so as to enclose the thread
or cord in the tube without causing it to be interwoven into the fabric.
In whatever way the frilling threads are combined with the foundation fabric
they must be introduced at given distances apart, according to the width or breadth
of the intended ornamental frilling.
The fabric prepared in either of the ways above mentioned is then placed in an
embroidering machine, and the pattern to form the edging of the frilling is em-
broidered thereon in the usual manner. The embroidered fabric may then be cut
up into strips, and the edges trimmed and finished with a pair of scissors. The
embroidered frilling is then ready for use and may be "gathered " up to any desired
extent, so as to form a frill or ruffle by holding the frilling thread and then pushing
up the fabric thereon in the same way as when a frilling thread is introduced by
hand.
In the accompanying Drawing I have illustrated the several modes, above set
forth, of introducing the frilling threads into piece goods that are intended to be
embroidered.
Fig. 1 represents a piece of embroidered cloth with the frilling thread a intro-
duced as a weft thread, and Fig. 2 is an enlarged transverse section of the same.
It will be understood that a special shuttle is provided for the delivery of this
thread, and in order that it shall not be bound into the work like the other weft
threads it is shot under a comparatively small number of warp threads, say one in
every five or ten.

page_text: Figures 3 and 4 illustrate the introduction of the weft-frilling thread into the
veining or open work portion of the fabric, as already explained.
Figures 5 and 6 shew the weft-frilling thread a as inclosed in a tube, such tube
being woven round it in the manner well known to weavers of bag and double
fabric work. In this, as in the former examples, the puckering up of the work on
the frilling thread may be readily effected.
Figures 7 and 8 illustrate the mode of introducing the frilling threads as warp
threads. In this case the frilling thread a, which is a strong heavy thread, is drawn
from a bobbin, as already explained, and when lifted or depressed in the forming
of a shed it will be accompanied by two adjacent ordinary warp threads, which
will serve to protect it against being unduly interlocked in the woven fabric by
the weft thread. Fig. 8 shews an open shed with the frilling thread a raised and
accompanied by its two adjacent warp threads. The three threads being treated
virtually as one thread in the operation of weaving.
Having now set forth the nature of the Invention of "Improvements in the
Manufacture of Ornamental Frillings," and explained the manner of carrying the
same into effect, I wish it to be understood that under the above in part recited
Letters Patent I do not claim the mechanical introduction of puckering threads
into fabrics of whatever class, but what I claim is,-
First. The introduction into woven fabrics of the class above indicated of weft-
frilling threads, in the manner and for the purpose above set forth.
Secondly. The introduction into woven fabrics of the class above indicated of
warp-frilling threads, in the manner and for the purpose above set forth.
In witness whereof, I, the said Edward Jessett Earle, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, the Fifteenth day of January, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and seventy-nine.