IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF LACE OR OTHER FABRICS MADE ON BOBB NET OR TWIST LACE MACHINES, AND IN THE MACHINERY OR APPARATUS EMPLOYED THEREIN
Year: 1865

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Henry Taylor, of the Town and County of the Town
of Nottingham, Lace Manufacturer, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS
IN THE MANUFACTURE OF LACE OR OTHER FABRICS MADE ON BOBB NET OR
TWIST LACE MACHINES, AND IN THE MACHINERY OR APPARATUS EMPLOYED
THEREIN."
Sealed the 1st September 1865, and dated the 4th March 1865..
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Henry Taylor at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 4th
March 1865.
I, HENRY TAYLOR, of the Town and County of the Town of Nottingham,
Lace Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF LACE OR OTHER FABRICS MADE ON BOBBIN
NET OR TWIST LACE MACHINES, AND IN THE MACHINERY OR APPARATUS EMPLOYED
THEREIN," to be as follows:-
My Invention has for object improvements in the manufacture of lace-
or other fabrics made on bobbin net or twist lace machines, and is applicable
to the making of "breadths" of lace or other fabrics with scolloped edges,
purled, or otherwise. In carrying out my Invention I prefer the employment
of "Lever's" machines to those of other principle although others may be used..

page_text: In the following description I use the word "lace" only, but the same mode
is applicable in like manner to other fabrics. First, in making scollops
certain portions of the warp and bobbin threads become unnecessary whilst
producing the narrowed parts, and in order to cut away the superfluous por-
tions of both bobbin and warp threads they are so linked or twisted with extra
threads working at the back or front of the lace that the parts of the bobbin
or warp threads to be cut may be brought in contact with cutters
applied between some or all of these extra threads and the lace being made.
These threads may in some cases be composed of wire, in which case the
cutters might be applied outside the threads, or the threads might be so
shaped as themselves to perform the cutting. In some cases, however,
instead of cutting away the superfluous portions of warp threads they may be
worked into the breadths as warp or warp weft threads; and in order to avoid
the ragged or rugged edges usual in scollops that are cut, the ends of the por-
tions of warp threads used in making the scollops may be worked in for the
space of one or more gates so as to carry them away from the edges of the
scollops and secure them towards the opposite selvage, while the ends of the
portions of bobbin threads used in making the scollops are drawn away from
the edges of the scollops and secured towards the opposite selvages by the action
of warp threads linked with the bobbin threads. These warp threads are in
some cases used solely for this purpose, and are withdrawn while in the
process of finishing, in other cases they serve an additional purpose as lacing
or forming part of the breadths, or acting as the extra warp threads for bring-
ing the bobbin and warp threads in contact with the cutters before mentioned.
In working the bobbin threads as before mentioned they are sometimes
slackened by being pushed or pulled as they pass from the bobbins towards
the work, so that they may be the more easily drawn towards the opposite
selvages of the breadth. This slackening is performed by a traversing point
bar working by preference below the taking up points or by means of warp
threads, the movements of such point bar or warp threads being varied by the
jacquard. In working the warps as above indicated the weighting of the
threads may be varied by the action of bars or sleys through which the
tbreads pass, such bars or sleys being actuated by jacquard or other pattern
surfaces. In passing the cutters between the extra warp threads and the lace
the cutters are flat or nearly so to the lace which is stretched between rollers
or on a frame, although in some instances it might be done as it passes
towards the work roller of the lace machine. The lace or the cutters, or both
of them, are so moved by hand or by mechanism as to sever the threads
which connect the extra warp threads and the lace; whilst this is being done

page_text: the extra warp threads which are withdrawn from the lace are kept tight by
being wound on to separate bobbins moved by hand or mechanism. The
foregoing methods of treating the threads may be used in making scollops to
point towards each other, or to fit into each other, or for being laced to the
back edge of the adjoining breadth or otherwise in making pieces of lace of
various shapes and figures, with leaves, sprigs, or other designs or patterns, in-
making variously shaped holes and openings in the body or ground of lace;
and in some cases when making lace composed of open work intersected'
by fine weavings, either purled or otherwise as by the above methods, portions
of bobbin and warp threads which become for a time surperfluous, (owing to.
the varying texture of the lace) may be cut and drawn away, and bobbin and.
warp threads used in making weavings or meshes in one part of the patterns
may in another part thereof be used for lacing purls or the edges of holes,.
the parts used in lacing being afterwards cut and drawn away by the above
methods. The same methods may be used in working, cutting, and drawing
away lacing threads so as to separate breadths, or partly separate breadths
and detach purls, and in working, cutting, and drawing away the superfluous
portions of thick threads.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed:
by the said Henry Taylor in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
4th September 1865.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, HENRY
TAYLOR, of the Town and County of the Town of Nottingham, Lace Manu-
facturer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Fourth day of March, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and sixty-five, in the twenty-eighth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me,
the said Henry Taylor, Her special licence that I, the said Henry Taylor,
my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said
Henry Taylor, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any
time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times there-
after during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make,
use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and
Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, .an Invention for "Iк-
PROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF LACE OR OTHER FABRICS MADE ON BOBBIN

page_text: NET OR TWIST LACE MACHINES, AND IN THE MACHINERY OR APPARATUS EMPLOYED
THEREIN," upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said Henry Taylor,
my executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or
their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascer-
tain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be
performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office
within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said
Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Henry Taylor, do hereby declare
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement thereof, reference being had to the accompanying Drawings, and to
the letters and figures marked thereon, that is to say:-
My Invention has for object improvements in the manufacture of lace or
other fabrics made on bobbin net or twist lace machines, and is applicable to
the making of "breadths" of lace or other fabrics with scalloped edges, purled,
or otherwise. In carrying out my Invention I prefer the employment of
"Lever's " machines to those of other principles, although other lace machines
may be used. In the following description I use the word "lace" only, but
the mode which I describe is applicable in like manner to other fabrics
made on bobbin net or twist lace machinery. In setting forth the nature of my
Invention I purpose, in the first instance, to describe the making of scollops.
In making scollops certain portions of the warp and bobbin threads become
unnecessary whilst producing the narrowed parts and in order to cut away
the superfluous portions of both bobbin and warp threads, they are so linked
or twisted with extra threads working at the back or front of the lace, that
the parts of the bobbin or warp threads to be cut may be brought in contact
with cutters applied between some or all of these extra threads, and the lace
being made. These threads may in some cases be composed of wire, in
which case the cutters might be applied outside the threads, or the threads
might be so shaped as to perform the cutting. In some cases, however,
instead of cutting away the superfluous portions of warp threads they may be
worked into the breadths as warp threads, or as warp weft threads. Aud
in order to avoid the ragged or rugged edges usual in scollops that are
cut, the ends of the portions of warp threads used in making the scollops may
be worked in for the space of one or more gates so as to carry them away
from the edges of the scollops and secure them towards the opposite
selvages while the ends of the portions of bobbin threads used in making
the scollops are drawn away from the edges of the scollops and secured

page_text: towards the opposite selvages by the action of warp threads linked with
the bobbin threads. These warp threads are in some cases used solely for
this purpose and are withdrawn while in the process of finishing; in other
cases they serve an additional purpose, as lacing or forming part of the
breadths or acting as the extra warp threads for bringing the bubbin threads
and warp threads in contact with the cutters before mentioned. In working
the bobbin threads as before mentioned these threads may in some cases be
slackened by being pushed or pulled as they pass from the bobbins towards
the work so that they may be more easily drawn towards the opposite selvages
of the breadth. This slackening is performed by a traversing point bar work-
ing by preference below the taking up points, or by means of warp threads,
the movements of such point bar or warp threads being varied by the jacquard.
In working the warp threads as above indicated the weighting of the threads
may be varied by the action of bars or sleys through which the threads pass,
such bars or sleys being actuated by jacquard or other pattern surfaces
In passing the cutters between the extra warp threads and the lace, the
cutters are flat or nearly so to the lace, and the lace is stretched between
rollers or on a frame, although in some instances it might be done as it passes
towards the work roller of the lace machine. The lace or the cutters, or
both of them are so moved by band or by mechanism as to sever the threads
which connect the extra warp threads and the lace, whilst this is being done
the extra warp threads which are withdrawn from the lace are kept tight
by being wound on to separate bobbins, moved either by hand or by mechanism.
The foregoing methods of treating the threads may be used in making
scollops to point towards each other, or to fit into each other, or for being laced
to the back edge of the adjoining breadth or otherwise, also in making pieces
of lace of various shapes and figures, as leaves, sprigs, or other designs or
patterns, in making variously shaped holes and openings in the body or ground
of lace; and in some cases when making lace composed of open work
intersected by fine weavings, either purled or otherwise, as by the above
method, portions of bobbin threads and warp threads which become for a
time superfluous (owing to the varying texture of the lace) may be cut and
drawn away, and bobbin threads and warp threads used in making weavings
or meshes in one part of the patterns may in another part thereof be used
for lacing purls or the edges of holes, the parts used in lacing being afterwards
cut and drawn away by the above methods. The same methods may be used
in working, cutting, and drawing away lacing threads so as to separate breadths
or partly separate breadths and detach pur's from the lacing threads, and in
working, cutting, and drawing away the superfluous portions of thick threads.

page_text: describe more fully the manner of performing the same with reference to the
accompanying Drawings.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.
Figure 1 represents on an enlarged scale the form of a scollop on one edge
of a breadth of lace, such scolloped edge being laced to a bobbin thread K,
and this bobbin is twisted with a tightly weighted warp thread, and is laced
to the back of the next adjoining breadth by a warp lacing thread. The
scolloped edge may be made of any required length and curved or vandyked,
as required. In either case suitable warp threads are worked into the edge E
to produce purls, which are laid as shewn, and laced by means of the bobbin
threads, and one or more warp lacing threads to the bobbin thread K of the
next adjoining breadth; and in making the narrowest part of the scollop four
bobbin threads, and, say, four warp threads become unnecessary.
suppose that the superfluous portions of warp threads are worked into the nar-
rowest part of the breadth, leaving only the portions of bobbin threads to be cut
away. In order to bring these bobbin threads in contact with a cutter, there
are two extra warp threads, G and F, worked at the back of the lace, each
of these warp threads is twisted only with two of the superfluous portions of
bobbin threads, such twistings are shewn at F and G; the bobbin threads
1, 2, 3, 4, are at the beginning, and also at the end of the superfluous portions;
each bobbin thread is linked with a separate extra warp thread worked in
front of the lace, and indicated by the lines lettered A, B, C, D.
I will first
The way in which the bobbin threads are linked with the warp threads will
be understood by reference to Figure 2, where it will be seen that the bobbin
thread 1 becomes unnecessary in making the narrowed part, commencing at H,
and that the extra warp thread A is caused to pass between the bobbin
thread 2 and its ordinary warp thread, then to link with the bobbin thread 1,
and again to pass between bobbin thread 2 and its warp thread, and being
heavily weighted it will draw a loop of bobbin thread I across and between
the intervening bobbin thread and warp thread as shewn at 1, Figure 3.
The extra warp threads indicated by the lines A, B, C, D, in Figure 1 are
threads of strong cotton, but threads of fine wire might be used for the sake
of extra strength, although I find cotton strong enough for ordinary purposes,
and I prefer it because it can be worked with greater facility. If threads of
wire are used the cutting instrument can be applied outside the threads, but
with less advantage. When the scollop is composed of lace requiring the
bobbin threads to be heavily sprung it will be necessary to use another warp

page_text: '
thread to assist in drawing the bobbin threads, at the points numbered,
7 to 14 (Figure 1) in the direction of the opposite selvage. This warp
thread is in front of the lace, and between the lace and the front extra threads:
and I call it extra thread M, but I have not thought it necessary to
shew it in the Drawing. It is caused to link first with the bobbin thread 1
at the point marked 7, in the same way as the extra warp thread A (in,
Figure 1), then to link with the back edge bobbin thread, then to link with,
bobbin thread 2 at the point marked 8, and so on successively with the back.
edge, and each of the loops of the bobbin threads at the points marked 9, 10,,
11, 12, 13, and 14. This thread M may be used for this purpose only, or it,
may occasionally serve the additional purpose of lacing parts in the breadth,
and must be withdrawn after the bobbin threads are cut. The superfluous
portions of four warp threads are in the description of Figure 1 supposed to
be worked into the narrowed part of the breadth as has been done before in
making scollops; they are worked in as warp threads or as warp weft threads,
as the kind of lace to be made may admit. Whilst working these warp.
threads into the narrowed part, the threads may in some cases require to have.
their weighting varied. To effect this object each of the four threads will
pass through a perforated bottom bar in addition to the ordinary top bar.
This bottom bar is arranged to work immediately above the ordinary sley,
and is moved to the right or left by the jacquard so as to vary the tension on
the warp threads passing through it. The purling may be dispensed with, and
the bobbin thread 6 caused to lace the edge of the widest part of the scollop
instead of lacing purls, although it is preferred to work in the superfluous
portions of warp threads as described; the warp threads may be linked with
extra threads and cut away in a similar manner to the superfluous portions of
the bobbin thread. For example, suppose it be desired to cut away the
superfluous part of the ordinary warp thread N belonging, to the bobbin
thread I, it may, as soon as it ceases to twist with the bobbin thread 1 and
the narrowing cominences, be worked in over the carriage threads 2 and 3,
and linked round the carriage thread 4, and carried down to the point
marked G, where it is twisted for four motions with the bobbin threads 1
and 2, the thread N lying in front of the lacing thread both above and below
the point G, after leaving which it is linked with the bobbin thread 4, and
worked in until it joins with its bobbin thread 1. While this warp thread N
is being linked with bobbin thread 4, the extra warp thread B is caused to
stand at the right-hand of the bobbin thread 4, so that the loop of the warp
thread N indicated by the dotted lines in Figure 1 is drawn in front
of the extra warp thread B, and may be cut when the cutting instrument is

page_text: applied between the extra thread B and the lace. The relative position of
the bars in the machine whilst making the scollop as above described will be
in the following order, that is to say :-
The back extra warp thread G; the back extra warp thread F; the
ordinary warp threads for making the body of the lace; ordinary warp
thread working with the bobbin thread 4; ordinary warp thread working
with the bobbin thread 3; ordinary warp thread working with the bobbin
thread 2; ordinary warp thread working with the bobbin thread 1; extra
warp thread M; front extra thread D; front extra thread C; front
extra thread B; front extra thread A. But I do not confine myself to this
arrangement.
We will now suppose that the lace has been dressed, and that the breadth
represented by Figure 1 is extended lengthwise on a frame, and that a cutting
instrument, that is to say, a thin blade or knife is placed flatly between the
lace and the extra threads in front thereof as shewn at L, Figure 1; the ends
of the extra threads A, B, C, D, are tied to a bobbin, on to which they are to
be wound after leaving the lace so as to keep the extra threads tight while
the cutter is moved by band lengthwise of the extra threads so as to sever the
bobbin threads where they are linked with the front extra threads, thus
leaving the portions used in making the scollops with their ends carried in the
direction of the opposite selvage, and the superfluous portions at liberty to be
drawn away by means of the extra warp threads worked at the back of the lace.
Lace will sometimes admit of superfluous portions of threads being cut away
before it is dressed, and it is only in these cases that the cutting could be done
as the lace passes towards the work roller of the machine. The form and
depth of the scollop may be varied, and a greater or less number of extra
warp threads used, according to the number of portions of threads to be cut
away.
The foregoing methods of treating the threads may be used in making
scollops to point towards each other, or to fit into each other, or for being
laced to the back edge of the adjoining breadth, or otherwise in making pieces
of lace of various shapes and figures as leaves, sprigs, or other designs or
patterns in making variously shaped holes and openings in the body or ground
of the lace, and in some cases when making lace composed of open work
intersected by fine weavings, either purled or otherwise, as by the above
methods, portions of bobbin threads and warp threads which become for a
time superfluous, (owing to the varying texture of the lace,) may be cut and
drawn away, and bobbin threads and warp threads used in making weavings
or meshes in one part of the patterns, may in another part thereof be used in

page_text: lacing purls or the edges of holes. The parts used in lacing being afterwards
cut and drawn away by the above methods. The same methods may be used
in working, cutting, and drawing away lacing threads so as to separate
breadths, or partly separate breadths and detach purls from the lacing threads,
and in working, cutting, and drawing away the superfluous portions of thick
threads. It will be understood that the purling may be omitted, and the
bobbin thread 6 caused to lace the edge of the widest part of the scollop,
instead of lacing purls. It may here be stated that although it is preferred
to work in the superfluous portions of warp threads as described, the warp
threads may be linked with extra threads, and cut away in a similar manner
to the superfluous portions of bobbin threads. The peculiarity or distinguish-
ing feature of this Invention consists in the combined use and employment of
extra warp threads, and a cutter or cutters for the purpose of cutting away
the superfluous portions of threads and drawing the ends of the portions
used in the direction of the opposite selvage when making scollops as
described.
Having now described the nature of my said Invention and in what manner
the same may be performed, I declare that I claim,—
First, the manufacture of lace or other fabrics on bobbin net or twist lace
machines substantially as described.
Second, the combination and employment of extra warp threads, and a
cutter or cutters for the purpose of cutting away the superfluous portions of
threads and drawing the ends of the portions used in the direction of the
opposite selvage when making scollops as described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Henry Taylor, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Second day of September, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-five.
Witness,
GEO. JON. ROBINSON,
Patent Office,
Nottingham.
HENRY TAYLOR. (L.S.)