Improvements in Sewing Machines.
Year: 1897

page_text: Date of Application, 16th Nov., 1897-Accepted, 2nd Apr., 1898
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Sewing Machines.
We, GEORGE HELLIAR COLLEY, of Jackson, in the County of Jackson, State of
Michigan, United States of America, Machinist, and the WEEKS-COLLEY MANU-
FACTURING Co., of the same place, Manufacturers, do hereby declare the nature of
this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement:—
This invention relates to sewing machines, but more particularly to machines
employing rotating loopers (shuttles or hooks) and especially designed for fancy
stitching, or doing that class of embroidery known as flossing." I do not, how-
ever, desire to restrict the invention to such machines as are used for fancy stitching
only, inasmuch as it is adapted to other uses and hence I do not wish to limit its
application to any specific class of work.
The general object of the invention is to provide efficient means for producing
various artistic figures or designs in needle-work, for decorating or ornamenting
wearing apparel, in imitation of the very expensive method of performing such
work by hand, and to overcome the objections incident to the use of machines hereto-
fore employed for this class of work, in the operation of which, long stitches or
duplicates of the figure or design produced by the needle-thread are formed on the
under side of the cloth, which long stitches or copies of the overlying figure or design
on the upper side of the cloth are liable to be cut or broken and thereby permit the
needle-work to be easily pulled out or unraveled so as to destroy the work.
The primary specific object of the invention is to provide a rotatory or oscillatory
looper which will yieldingly hold the bobbin-thread and automatically re-wind
or take up so much of the thread paid out by the bobbin as may not be utilized in
forming the usual lock stitch.
Further specific objects are to provide means for varying the tension of the spring
of the looper which automatically re-winds or takes up the underlying thread payed
out by the bobbin; to provide improved means for stopping the stitch-forming
mechanism after each complete reciprocation of the needle, or to permit said
mechanism to be constantly operated; and to provide mechanism for vibrating or
oscillating the presser-foot, so that said foot may conform to the oscillatory or
vibratory movement of the needle so as to work alternately with the loopers or to
permit the presser-foot to have simply a vertical movement when the needle is
working with one looper only.
The invention will first be described with reference to the accompanying draw-
ngs, which form a part of this Specification, and then pointed out in claims at
he end of the description.
Referring to the drawings in which the same parts are denoted by similar letters
f reference, Figure 1, (Sheet 1), represents a side elevation of a sewing machine
mbodying my invention; the machine proper being detached from the usual
abinet or table and operating devices.
Figure 2, (Sheet 2), is a side elevation of the same looking from the opposite side;
part of the nearer side of the overhanging arm being removed and part broken

page_text: away so as to show the interior arrangement of the mechanism for vibrating the
needle-bar and the clutch device for throwing the same in and out of gear.
Figure 3, (Sheet 3), is a bottom plan of the machine shown in Figures 1 and 2.
Figure 4, (Sheet 4), is a front elevation of the machine;
Figures 5 and 6 (Sheet 3), are detail sectional views taken through the shuttle
races showing the shuttle-driver in different positions ;
Figure 7 is a detail perspective view of the clutch device for throwing the needle-
bar vibrating mechanism in and out of gear.
Figure 8. (Sheet 4), is a side view of one of the shuttles showing the position of
the parts when the needle has descended and the hook of the shuttle has just entered
the loop of the needle-thread;
Figure 9 represents the parts shown in Figure 8 in the position in which they
appear when the shuttle is casting off the loop.
Figures 10 and 11 are diagrammatic views illustrating different positions of the
needle and bobbin-thread corresponding with the position of the parts shown in
Figures 8 and 9 in the act of forming a lock-stitch;
Figures 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, and 18 are diagrammatic views, further illustrating
successive steps in the operation of forming a series of stitches, in doing that class
or species of embroidery known in the art as "flossing"; the bobbin-thread being
shown in light and the needle-thread in dark lines, with the spacing of the threads
very much exaggerated.
Figure 19 (Sheet 5), represents a side elevation on an enlarged scale of one of the
shuttle races and shuttles.
Figure 20 is a side view of one of the shuttles removed from the race.
Figure 21 is a view similar to that shown in Figure 20 with the bobbin removed
and a portion of the interior broken away so as to show the arrangement of parts
back of the broken portion.
Figure 22 represents a vertical section through the shuttle.
Figure 23 is a perspective view of the face-plate of the bobbin case.
Figure 24 is a perspective view of the friction-place or disk arranged to rotate
adjacent to said face-plate; and
Figure 25 represents in perspective a friction ring and two lock-nuts for holding
said ring against said friction-plate so as to maintain the desired friction or tension.
Figures 26 and 27 (Sheets 6 and 7) represent views corresponding with Figures 1
and 2 and illustrating modified constructions embodying the invention.
Figure 28, (Sheet 7) is a sectional plan view, partly in elevation, of the mechan-
ism for vibrating or oscillating the pressure-foot, and means for connecting said
mechanism to or disconnecting the same from the main driving shaft.
Figure 29 represents vertical transverse sections through the bracket or over-
hanging arm, taken on the line IV-IV of Figure 28, and looking in opposite direc-
tions, illustrating the clutch device for connecting the needle and the presser-foot
vibrating mechanisms to or disconnecting the same from the main driving shaft.
Figure 30 is a vertical transverse section taken on the line V-V of Figure 27
illustrating the means for stopping the stitch-forming mechanism after each stitch
or at the will of the operator.
Figure 31 is a detail plan view of the sliding locking-bar of such stop-mechanism.
Figure 32 is a fragmentary plan view of a portion of the machine shown in
Figure 26 with the sliding plates covering the loopers removed.
Figure 33, (Sheet 8) is a detail view, partly in section and partly in elevation, of
one of the loopers shown in Figure 32, and the bracket or support therefor.
Figure 34 represents detail views of two members of this looper.
Figure 35 is a bottom or underneath plan view of the said looper, the bottom
plate being removed.
Figure 36 is a detail plan view of such bottom plate of the looper.
Figure 37 is a detail elevation of the bobbin.
Figure 38 (Sheet 9) represents detail perspective views of the two members of the
looper shown in plan in Figure 34.

page_text: Figure 39 is a detail plan view of the bobbin-casing employed with this form
of loop, the friction-disk being removed, so as to show the spring for automatically
taking up the underlying threads of the design.
Figures 40 and 41 are detail perspective and vertical sectional views, respectively,
of the said bobbin-casing.
Figure 42 represents detail perspective views of the tension devices, employed
in this bobbin-casing.
Figure 43 is a detail elevation of the bobbin.
Figure 44 is a vertical sectional view of a bobbin casing, illustrating one form
of means for varying the tension of the take-up spring.
Figure 45 is a detail plan view of the bobbin casing shown in Figure 44, the
bobbin-thread take-up devices being removed.
Figure 46 is a detail underneath or bottom plan view of the friction-disk and
arbor employed in the bobbin-casing shown in Figure 44; and
Figure 47 is a top plan view of the said friction-disk, arbor and the tensioning
devices.
The machine may be constructed with the usual overhanging arm A mounted on
the bed-plate B and supporting the usual needle-bar and tension and take-up
devices, and may be provided with the usual operating mechanism for imparting
motion to the needle and loopers. Such parts being old and well-known in the
art, no description thereof herein is deemed necessary, further than such as may be
required to explain the relation which they sustain to the novel features of construc-
tion constituting my invention and their co-operation therewith.
Referring more particularly to Figures 1, 2 and 3, the needle-bar-actuating
shaft C, by which motion is also imparted to the shuttle-driving shaft D, is pro-
vided with a crank portion or arm c, which is journaled in bearings on one end of a
pitman & the opposite end of which is pivoted to an arm d on the rock-shaft d¹
which has an oppositely extending arm d³ having a slot-and-pin connection with a
crank-arm on the vibrating shuttle-driving shaft D; the latter being journaled in
suitable bearings provided therefor underneath the bed-plate B, while the shaft C
preferably has its bearings located within the hollow overhanging arm A. To
adapt the shuttles to be easily removed and replaced, the shuttle-driving shaft D
is formed in sections which are connected by a clutch coupling consisting of a disk
ixed on the main section and an adjoining disk secured by spline and groove con-
nection on the shuttle-driver section, the latter disk having teeth or pins which
enter apertures in the fixed disk, so as to adapt the two disks when interlocked to
lock the sections of the shaft so that they shall rotate together; the disk on the
shuttle-driver section being pressed normally into locking engagement with the
opposing disk by a spring and having on its hub or sleeve a milled wheel whereby
the loose disk may be slid against the force of the spring so as to disengage its teeth
or pins to permit the shuttle-driver section of the shaft to be turned in its bearings
into position to permit the shuttles to be removed or inserted by opening or closing
the segmental portions of the races. To remove the shuttles the stop-wheel, herein-
after described should first be turned until the dog or lug thereon strikes the sliding
stop-bar hereinafter described on one side or the other of the notch in said bar,
whereupon the milled wheel on the sliding section of the clutch coupling is turned
to the left or from the operator until the driver is brought into position to permit
the shuttles to be removed.
The shaft C has mounted loosely thereon a band-wheel E, which in practice is
driven continuously by a belt extending as usual to some driving shaft near the
machine; one side of this band-wheel being held in frictional contact with a stop-
wheel E¹, which latter is fixed on the shaft C; the desired tension or friction between
the stop and band-wheels being maintained by means of lock-nuts, so as to regulate
the amount of pressure or friction between the fast and loose wheels to meet
different requirements in use; the friction being sufficient always to enable the
loose band-wheel, by its engagement with the fast stop-wheel to rotate the shaft C,
0

page_text: Spalt ma De stopped at any time with the needle and presser-foot
lifted as will be presently explained.
Movement is imparted to the needle-bar C¹ from the shaft C, by the usual con-
nections and from the latter to the shuttle-driving shaft D through the described
_rock-shaft and crank and pitman connections.
The shuttle race or casing D2 is formed with interior circumferential grooves
or races to guide the rotating hooks or shuttles, and provided with hinged segmental
portions, and means for opening and closing the same to permit the removal and
insertion of the shuttles at will. But any of the ordinary forms of races may be
used, and inasmuch as the construction of the race forms no part of my present
invention it is not deemed necessary to specifically describe the same herein. I
also preferably employ rotating-hooks or shuttles of the construction shown in the
drawings and hereinafter more particularly described, but other forms may be
employed. These shuttles are given a partial rotation or oscillatory motion by
means of the shuttle-drivers D which receive motion from the shuttle-driving
shaft D; two shuttles being used at the same time, with only a single needle,
which latter descends for the purpose of forming and locking a stitch, in cooperation
with other parts, first co-acting with one shuttle and then with the other, and so on,
being shifted by the needle-bar so as to form successive stitches alternately with
two or more shuttles, with the results herein specified. To cause the needle to
descend for action with two or more shuttles alternately, I provide mechanism
by which the needle-bar will be given a partial rotation or vibratory movement
at each revolution of the main or needle-driving shaft just before the needle-bar
reaches the limit of its ascending movement, so as to shift the needle alternately
from one position or needle-hole in the throat plate A¹ to another, as from needle-
hole a to hole a' (Figures 10 and 11) and vice versa, so that it will cooperate to
lock the several stitches in the series by operating alternately or successively with
two or more shuttles. To this end I place on the needle-bar-actuating shaft Ca
miter gear F, which meshes with a larger gear or cam wheel F1; the latter having
a cam-groove f¹ in its rear face to receive a stud or roller g, projecting from a
lever G, which may be pivotally mounted upon the base or upright portion of the
overhanging arm A, or other suitable portion of the frame. The lever G is pivoted
at its upper end to a longitudinally reciprocating rod or bar H which carries a
toothed extension or rack Hat its forward end; said rack being arranged to
engage a mutilated or other suitable gear I, which is fitted upon the needle-bar
by means of a spline and groove, so as to permit free vertical movement of said
needle-bar while imparting a rotatory or vibratory movement thereto, so that
when the bar H is reciprocated by the action of the cam-wheel and lever operating
thereon the needle may be made to descend and pass alternately through the
needle-holes a, a, for the purpose of operating alternately with the two shuttles.
The rack H might be formed integrally with the reciprocating rod or bar H, but
it is preferably formed in a separate piece and connected thereto by a coupling h, so
as to permit sufficient flexure at this point to prevent the rack from binding and
to accommodate the same to the rising and falling movements of the rear end of
the bar H produced by the swinging or oscillating motion of the lever G. The
coupling consists of a screw-threaded socket h¹ into which is screwed the screw-
threaded end of the rack H¹ and which is provided with ears or lugs to receive
a set-screw or bolt 2 by which it is pivoted to the bar H; whereby a pivotal
connection is formed between the rack and bar to permit vertical flexure at this
point, and thereby prevent the bar or rack from being twisted or the latter from
binding in its bearings.
The miter gear F is loose upon the shaft C so as to permit the shaft to revolve
therein without rotating the same or the larger cam-gear F¹, and in order that
the miter gears may remain idle or be caused to rotate at the will of the operator,
I provide a clutch-section f having suitable teeth or projections engaging corres-
ponding notches or recesses in the adjacent end of the miter-gear section F in the
usual manner; said clutch section f being fitted upon the shaft C by means of a

page_text: spline and groove so as to permit it to be slid back and forth into and out of
engagement with the section F, while continuously revolving with the shaft.
For throwing the needle-bar vibrating mechanism in and out of gear, I provide
a lever K which may be pivoted at one end within the overhanging arm A and may
have its free end depending through a slot in the under side of said arm to form
a handle & for manipulating the lever. This lever is also provided intermediate
its length with a pin which engages a groove in the clutch coupling section f,
so as to positively throw the latter into or out of engagement with the adjoining
section F, according to the direction in which the lever is moved.
When the machine is moving rapidly the miter gears will have acquired a
certain velocity and by virtue of their momentum and the slight frictional contact
between the part F and the driving shaft they may not stop the instant the clutch
is disengaged, and in order to insure the stoppage thereof at the proper time and
to retain the gear Fimmovably in the position in which it is stopped and prevent
any possible rotation thereof, by reason of its frictional contact with the shaft
on which it is placed, I provide a locking device, consisting of a spring-arm k
projecting from the pendant lever K and having a stud or tooth adapted, when
the lever is moved to disengage the clutch, to enter one of the grooves or recesses
between any two of the teeth of the miter-gear F and hold said gear in a fixed
position until released by the reverse movement of the lever in engaging the clutch.
By these means the needle-bar-actuating mechanism may be thrown out of gear,
at the will of the operator, so as to adapt the needle to operate with only one of
the shuttles in forming a number of stitches, at the beginning of the operation,
or thereafter, and when the clutch is disengaged the needle will continue to operate
with whichever shuttle it may be co-operating at the time. But so long as the
clutch is engaged the needle-bar will be vibrated at each up and down movement
so as to cause the needle to descend and form a stitch first with one shuttle and
then with the other.
The shuttle D3 shown in detail in Figures 19-25, is constructed with a ring-
shaped main body-portion having a hook or point d" and heel d¹² to afford a
bearing for the shuttle-driver D' and also having a peripheral circumferential
rib d to guide it in its race, as is usual in rotary hooks of this class. At one side
of the circular opening through said ring or body-portion d is placed the side or
face-plate E which is preferably in the form of a disk fitting tightly a circumfer-
ential recess in the inner face of the ring d³ so as to be held in place without other
fastening, and provided with a hollow interiorly screw-threaded spindle or arbor e,
having an annular shoulder or collar el at its base, and a stud or pin e² near the
circumference of the disk. Beside the stationary plate E is placed the friction-
plate or disk E having an exteriorly screw-threaded sleeve or hub e thereon
adapted to fit over the arbor e on which it may rotate. The disk E¹¹ rests upon
or against the shoulder or collar e and between it and the face-plate E is placed
a coiled or other suitable spring Fe one end of which may be fixed to the collar or
shoulder e¹, by means of a pin et projecting from said collar and engaging a notch
or slot in the end of the spring, while the other end thereof is fixed to or arranged
to engage a stud or projection e on the friction-plate or disk E"; the stud or pin e
serving as a stop to limit the movement of the disk E" to practically a single
though not strictly a complete rotation. The spring F is thus adapted to yieldingly
hold said friction plate in a fixed position relatively to the side or face-plate E
while permitting a limited rotary movement thereof, and to automatically return
it to its normal position after it has been rotated by a pull upon the thread carried
by the bobbin; the friction-disk being moved in one direction against the tension
of the spring, by pulling the bobbin-thread, and returned to normal position by
the recoil of the spring when the thread is released. Adjacent to the friction-
disk E is placed a friction-ring or collar G¹, adapted to fit over the sleeve or hub es
in frictional engagement with the inner face of said disk; and by means of lock-
nuts H3 and H, screwed upon the sleeve e³, the friction-ring may be secured upon
said sleeve and by adjusting and locking said nuts in such position as to cause

page_text: the ring to contact more or less closely with the disk, the pressure or friction
between the disk and ring may be varied so as to regulate the tension or hold upon
the bobbin-thread to meet various requirements in use. A screw-head or plug I'
having at its outer end an annular flange or shoulder i may be screwed into the
hollow axis or arbor e so as to confine the friction-disk (with its attached friction-
ring and lock-nuts) between said flange i and the shoulder or collar e on the plate E³.
The bobbin K is preferably of the ring-shaped construction shown, having a deep
circumferential groove or recess in its periphery to receive the shuttle-thread that
may be wound thereon and it may be locked to the friction-ring in any proper
manner which will render it readily detachable for filling, as by means of a lug g
on said friction ring G¹ engaging a notch or recess in the bobbin, or vice versa,
so that the friction ring and bobbin shall rotate together. I also preferably place
upon one or both sides of the friction-ring a thin friction-disk of paper or other
fibrous material.
The hook supporting ring d³ has an aperture or channel d* extending from
the inner surface of the ring to the side thereof on which the stationary plate E³
is secured; this channel being adapted to receive the bobbin-thread, which latter
passes through said aperture and from thence through an aperture e in the center
of the stationary plate E2 and out through an aperture ¹ extending centrally of
the plug I. The thread is thus delivered from the shuttle bobbin to the work
through the axis of rotation, thereby avoiding entanglement of the said thread
with the needle thread except as may be required to form the desired stitch.
By the described construction, when the bobbin-thread is pulled the bobbin
and the friction-disk and friction-ring will rotate together, so long as the friction
between said disk and ring is sufficient to cause them to move in unison, or until
the rotating disk reaches the limit of its movement by contact of the stud thereon
with the stop e² on the face-plate, whereupon any further movement of the bobbin
will be independent of the friction-disk and by virtue of a force sufficient to over-
come the friction or tension caused by the frictional contact of the friction-ring
and disk; the latter remaining stationary while the bobbin and friction-ring con-
tinue to rotate.
To adapt the machine to make a single stitch and stop to permit the material
to be moved for the next stitch, I provide a treadle on or near the floor, which
is connected to a rocking lever S which may be pivoted at its angle to a pendant
arm T, and has a slot and pin connection at s with a sliding bar U, which is fitted
to slide back and forth in suitable bearings in the bracket T and is provided with
a notch u, which, when arranged in the plane of rotation of a lug e, on the stop-
wheel E, will permit the latter to rotate continuously, but when moved either to
the right or left of such position, the lug e on the stop-wheel E' will, by coming
in contact with the sliding-bar U, prevent further rotation of the driving shaft
until released by the movement of the treadle so as to bring the notch in the
sliding bar into the path of movement of said lug, and thus permit the stop-wheel
to make another revolution, the needle action being thus under the complete con-
trol of the operator by means of "heel and toe" pressure on the treadle.
In suitable bearings supported upon the forward portion of the overhanging
arm is journaled a rock-shaft l, which is provided at its front end with a forked
arm 2, which engages a stud upon the presser-foot bar for the purpose of raising
said bar to permit the material, when a stitch has been formed and the cloth is
free to be moved by the operator for the distance it is desired to lay the silk or
other thread upon the cloth in forming the desired figure or design. A coiled
or other spring 4 on the rock-shaft tends normally to maintain the shaft in
such position as to hold the presser-foot down upon the throat-plate, but by means
of an arm 5 projecting from the rock-shaft l, and a cam or toothed disk on the
main driving shaft C engaging the arm 5, the presser-foot will be lifted while the
needle is raised or ascending, and as the shaft continues to rotate said arm 5 will
escape from the tooth on the disk and permit the presser-foot to drop down under
the action of the spring 4.

page_text: The operation of my invention will be readily understood from the foregoing
description, taken in connection with the accompanying drawings.
The machine is not provided with the usual feed but the fabric is moved by the
operator in whatever direction he may desire and to any distance required for
the formation of a stitch of any desired length, the needle descending at the will
of the operator, when the fabric is adjusted by hand to receive the needle action
at the proper point. If it is desired to take several stitches at any given point
upon the fabric in hand for the purpose of firmly tying the thread or fastening
it so it will not unravel, the clutch-operating lever K is thrown forward so as to
cause the needle to operate with one looper alone for forming any desired number
of stitches. The desired tie having been made at the point where the work
begins, the lever is shifted so as to engage the clutch section f, thereby causing
the needle to operate first with one shuttle and then the other, thus enabling the
operator to shift the fabric between each stitch taken, thereby laying the silk
from the needle down upon the goods. The needle descends and passes through
the presser-foot, which automatically rises and falls with the needle, holding the
fabric to the bed-plate just long enough for the stitch to be formed and rising
to allow free movement of the fabric to the point at which it is desired to make
the next stitch.
When the machine is being used to make but one stitch at a time, the lug on
the stop-wheel, by coming in contact with .the sliding stop-bar will prevent further
rotation of the driving shaft unless the stop-bar is moved so as to permit the dog
or tooth on said stop-wheel to escape, by bringing the notch in the bar into the
path of motion of said lug, whereupon the stop-wheel will be released and it will
make one revolution, but at the completion of its revolution the dog or tooth on
the stop-wheel will again strike the stop-bar and the dog may be again allowed to
press the
escape and so on for every stitch, it being necessary for the operator to
heel or toe on the treadle, either of which motions will bring the notch on the
locking-bar in position to permit the dog on the stop-wheel to escape for another
stitch and stop.
Ordinarily the machine stops at the completion of each stitch, the pressure on
the treadle for starting the machine being made alternately by the heel and toe
pressing upon the treadle, but if the treadle is held by the feet in proper position
(usually horizontally) the machine will not stop, but will continue to form stitches,
the needle action being performed alternately with first one looper and then the
other. The action of the needle will be more clearly understood by reference to
Figures 10 to 18 of the drawings, in which the successive steps are shown diagram-
matically on an enlarged scale; the needle-thread being shown in dark and the
shuttle-thread in light lines, it being understood, of course, that the spacing be-
tween the threads is exaggerated and that in actual practice these threads are
placed in such close proximity that they form a solid body or net-work of silk.
In Figures 8 and 10 the needle, which may be supposed to be supplied with floss
silk, has descended through the material so as to form a loop to be entered by one
of the rotating hooks; the said needle and hook at each complete rotation of the
needle-bar making a stitch. Figures 9 and 11 illustrate the descent of the needle
and the partial rotation of the looper to a point at which the loop is about to be
cast off. Figure 12 illustrates two initial locked stitches formed at the beginning
of the work. Figure 13 illustrates the position of the parts when the first lock-
stitches have been formed and the fabric moved to a position for forming the
next stitch the needle having been shifted by the needle-bar vibrating mechanism
so as to perform its usual function in conjunction with the other looper and, as
will be seen, the bobbin-thread of the adjoining or inactive looper being left free
to be automatically taken up by the recoil of the spring acting upon the bobbin
of the inactive looper when the stitch has been formed by the co-operation of the
active looper and needle and the material moved to bring the inactive looper
again into action, as indicated in Figure 14. Figures 15, 16, 17 and 18 represent

page_text: additional successive steps in the formation of a figure or design producing a fan-
shaped ornamental design in flossing.
Usually after making the first tie it is only necessary to make a single stitch
at each revolution of the needle driving-shaft operating alternately with first one
looper and then the other, but, of course, by shifting the clutch-operating lever
two or more stitches may be formed with either looper and needle without moving
the cloth or fabric so as to draw out the bobbin-thread and form a long stitch
on the under side. When the material is moved the clutch should be engaged
so as to permit the thread paid out by the bobbin which has formed the previous
stitch to be taken up after the next stitch is made by the other looper. Upon the
completion of the desired figure or design the clutch-operating lever may be
shifted so as to disengage the clutch, and thereupon a number of stitches may be
made with whichever looper the needle may be co-operating at the time, so as
to tie or tack the goods on the finishing strokes. Thus by causing a single
needle to operate alternately with two or more loopers the underlying thread
which is drawn out by the operator in moving the goods the desired distance to
form a stitch of any desired length is automatically taken up by the inactive
looper, which again becomes the active one in forming the next stitch, so that no
long stitches, or copy of the design which is being worked, are formed on the
under side of the cloth, whereby greater security and permanency is given to
the work, a saving of thread is effected and the cost of production of the decorative
or ornamental effect is reduced.
66
"
The process of unwinding the thread from the bobbin against the spring pres-
sure is performed, of course, by the act of the operator in shifting the goods from
one point to another by hand, thus enabling the operator to lay out any design
or sketch which may suit his fancy, or seem to be proper for the work in hand,
and after the second stitch is taken each movement of the garment underneath
the presser-foot permits one bobbin-spring by its recoil to wind up the thread
while the thread upon the other bobbin is unwound.
While the machine is especially designed for "flossing" it is also adapted to
be used for various other purposes, and may be profitably applied to the manu-
facture of draperies, curtains, tapestries, piano covers, handkerchiefs, infant's
clothing, suspenders, table covers, mats, corsets, &c., &c.; being adapted to be
used in the manufacture of corsets to stay or tack the ends of stays, and at the
same time leave long stitches of silk or other thread on the surface for a beauti-
fying effect, the design to be determined by the operator. Amongst other advan-
tages the avoidance of the formation of long stitches on the under side of the cloth
permits the use of silk for the needle and ordinary thread for the bobbins, but it
will be understood, of course, that silk or other thread may be used with the
bobbins when desired, and that by properly shifting the clutch mechanism so as
to operate with one needle and looper only, in flossing, the figure or design may.
be formed, if desired upon both sides of the cloth as with the ordinary flossing
machine.
Handsome needle work neatly and artistically accomplished in appropriate designs
and colors is a desirable form of ornamentation of textile fabrics, and such designs
may be easily and effectively produced by this machine.
Various modifications may be made in the construction and arrangement of parts
herein before described, without departing from the spirit of my invention, and
hence I do not desire to limit my invention to the exact construction and arrange-
ment of parts described and shown. It is obvious that a different stop motion might
be substituted for the one above described, and that other means may be employed
for imparting a partial rotation or vibratory movement to the needle-bar. Other
means for driving the needle and shuttles may also be employed, any ordinary
driving mechanism being adapted to be used for this purpose. The novelty and
utility of my present invention resides mainly in the combination with a single 5
needle and mechanism for imparting the desired motion thereto, of a plurality of
loopers, preferably of the hook or rotating shuttle type, together with means for

page_text: adapting the needle to operate with either looper at the will of the operator accord-
ing to the necessities of the work in hand, the operating mechanism being under
the control of the operator, so that the needle may operate alternately with the two
loopers or with either looper alone, without affecting or being affected by the looper
with which it may not be operating at the time; each of the loopers in the com-
bination being provided with means whereby the thread paid out by the bobbin
when the operator moves the cloth or fabric to form a succeeding stitch may be
taken up automatically by the bobbin from which it is un-wound, without being
locked on the under side, the succeeding stitch being formed and locked by the
action of the needle with the looper which was inactive in forming the last stitch,
so that the thread paid out by the bobbin of the looper which is not co-operating
with the needle at the time, may be automatically taken up when the cloth is moved
to permit such action after the stitch is formed.
Some examples of modifications such as suggested in the preceding paragraph,
are illustrated in detail in Figures 26-47, as also certain additional devices com-
bined with mechanisms already described.
The modification in the needle-bar oscillating mechanism consists in the employ-
ment of a cam-block, c, on the shaft, C, with reversed spiral grooves C5, therein,
and a lever chaving a follower engaged with said grooves, said lever being con-
nected through a link c with the rack, H¹.
On one end of the cam c is a bevel gear 5 secured to or formed integrally there-
with, adapted to mesh with a bevel gear m secured to a shaft m¹. This shaft may
be supported in a bracket secured to the overhanging arm A and has a cam m²
secured thereon and adapted to engage or contact with a lever m³, or a roller
arranged on a stud projecting from the lever; said lever being normally pressed
toward or against the cam m² by a suitable spring m*. A link or connecting rod m
connects the lever m³ to a stud or arm mo secured to the presser-foot bar, so that
as the cam m² rotates, the lever m³ will be engaged thereby so as to vibrate or parti-
ally rotate the presser-bar and foot in one direction, and when the cam passes the
lever the spring m will return the lever to its normal position so as to vibrate the
presser-foot in the opposite direction. It will thus be seen that a presser-foot
having a single aperture therein may be vibrated to correspond with the movement
of the needle.
To vibrate or partially rotate the presser-foot in conjunction with the vibratory
movement of the needle-bar, or to permit said foot to receive simply a vertical
movement when the needle is operating with one looper only, I prefer to arrange
the cam loosely upon the driving shaft C (Figures 28 and 29) and provide said
cam with an aperture, as at 6, or other engaging portion, adapted to be engaged by
a pin or projection ", on a clutch or sliding sleeve K. This sleeve has a key and
groove connection with the driving shaft so as to slide thereon and rotate therewith,
and is operated by a lever, 1, (Figure 26) pivoted to the overhanging arm A, and
engaging the sleeve with its upper end in the usual manner for operating a slidable
and rotatable sleeve. A slot, as at 3, may be provided in the sleeve adapted to
register with the lower end of a screw, bolt or projection depending from the
overhanging arm (Figure 29), so that said sleeve and shaft must be brought to a
predetermined position before the lever k¹ can be operated. In this case the slot k
is arranged so that when the needle and the presser-foot are raised and the tooth e
on the stop-wheel is in position to engage the sliding-bar, the slot will register with
the lower end of the screw * and will permit the sleeve K¹ to engage or be dis-
engaged from the cam to permit said cam to rotate with the shaft or to remain
stationary, the lower end of the screw being adapted to engage either side of the
flange of said sleeve when the slot does not register therewith, thereby holding it
from a sliding movement along the driving shaft.
For the purpose of operating the locking-bar E2 so as to stop the driving shaft C
and the several mechanisms operated thereby, or to permit said shaft to rotate con-
stantly at the will of the operator, I may provide a cam-bar F3 (Figures 27 and 30)
arranged to slide vertically in the bracket E13, said bar having a cam-slot f* therein

page_text: engaging a pin or projection f" carried by the locking-bar. This cam-bar may be
connected by a link or otherwise to a suitable treadle (not shown), so that the
operator by the usual heel and toe movement may raise or lower said bar to cause
the notch in the locking-bar to register with the tooth e of the stop-wheel so as to
permit constant rotary motion of the shaft C, or to cause the tooth to engage a por-
tion of said locking-bar so as to stop the driving shaft and stitch-forming mechanism
after the formation of each or any number of stitches.
as
well as
To adapt the machine to horizontal loopers, the looper driving shaft D may have
a spur gear arranged to mesh with a similar gear on the counter-shaft g" which
latter may be suitably journaled in brackets 2 and 3 depending from the under
surface of said bed-plate, the bracket 92 being preferably adjustably secured
by screws or otherwise to the bed-plate. A bracket may also be ad-
to the bed-plate, and
justably secured
in this bracket,
in the bracket 2, may be journaled vertical shafts or stems g³
(Figure 33), each having a miter gear secured to its lower end and meshing
with a similar gear arranged on the counter-shaft g¹, so that said shafts may rotate
continuously in the same direction, and at such a speed as to make two revolutions
to one complete reciprocation or up and down movement of the needle-bar. The
shafts are arranged on opposite sides of the throat-plate G2, and may each have a
recess or socket therein provided with a slotted bottom adapted to receive the stem
portion depending from the casing H³ of the looper H₁o, so as to cause said
loopers and shafts to rotate in unison. Each looper may have a bottom-plate hl
fitting loosely over the stem portion h³, and provided with a pin, as at h¹a adapted to
fit into an aperture in the body-portion of the looper, and with an upwardly extend-
ing lip, as at 30, arranged beneath the loop-engaging end or point of said looper;
though this plate may be dispensed with or the lip formed on or secured to the body
of the looper if desired. The looper has an internal groove or channel and may
comprise two members having a portion of the groove or channel in each member
adapted to receive a peripheral rib on the bobbin-casing h*, so that the latter may
be rotatively held in the looper the member of the looper, as at 5, being removably
secured to the looper-casing H³ so as to permit the ready removal or insertion of
said bobbin-casing. The bobbin-casing may have its upwardly projecting flange
partially cut away, and at or near its upper portion may be provided with a pro-
jection 6 having a curved upper surface which partially or wholly spans the space
betw.en the flanges of the bobbin-casing and the looper and is adapted to assist in
carrying the loop over said bobbin-casing while being shed or cast off by the looper,
and to one side of said projection may be arranged a lip or projection 7, adapted to
enter a recess in the lower portion of the throat-plate so that said casing may have a
slight oscillatory or rotary motion to permit the loop after it is shed by the looper
to pass over said lip through the recess in the throat-plate to the work. An arbor
or stem projects from the face or lower plate of the bobbin-casing, the lower
surface of which is preferably curved, and has a friction-disk provided with a
tubular sleeve or hub 10, journaled on said arbor so as to provide a space between
the under surface of said disk and the upper surface of the face-plate of the casing,
in which space is arranged a coil or other suitable spring h, having one end secured
to the bobbin-casing and the other end to the friction-disk; a pin, as at h¹², being
provided, adapted to engage a pin ¹³, carried by the friction-disk so as to limit the
rotary motion of the latter to practically though not strictly a complete rotation.
The spring is thus adapted to yieldingly hold the friction-disk in a fixed posi-
tion relatively to the bobbin-casing, while permitting a limited rotary movement
thereof and to automatically return it to its normal position after it has been rotated
by a pull upon the thread carried by the bobbin; the friction-disk being moved in
one direction against the tension of the spring, by pulling the bobbin-thread, and
returned to its normal position by the recoil of the spring when the bobbin-thread
is released. Adjacent to the friction-disk is placed a friction-ring or collar h¹,
adapted to fit over the hub or sleeve 10 in frictional engagement with the outer face
of said disk; and by means of a split or suitable spring-washer h¹5, and a collar ¹6

page_text: adjustably secured to the hub or sleeve of the friction-disk by a set-screw or other-
wise, the friction-ring may be secured upon said sleeve, and by adjusting the
collar 16 in such position as to cause the ring to contact more or less closely with
the disk, the pressure or friction between the disk and the ring may be varied so as
to regulate the tension or hold upon the bobbin-thread to meet various require-
ments in use. A screw h having an annular head may be screwed into the end of
the axis or arbor of the bobbin-casing so as to confine the friction disk between the
head of the screw and a shoulder or flange formed on the arbor 8. The bobbin K,
is locked to the friction-ring by means of a lug 22 on said friction-ring h¹ engaging
a notch or recess in the bobbin.
By the described construction the bobbin-thread may be delivered direct from
the bobbin through the reduced portion of the bobbin-casing or through a slot, as
at 18 (Figure 40), and when said thread is pulled the bobbin and the friction-
disk and friction-ring will rotate together, so long as the friction between said disk
and ring is sufficient to cause them to move in unison, or until the rotating disk
reaches the limit of its movement by contact of the stud or pin thereon with the.
stop or pin on the face-plate of the bobbin-casing, whereupon any further move-
ment of the bobbin, by virtue of a force sufficient to overcome the friction or
tension caused by the frictional contact of the friction-ring and disk, will be
independent of said disk; the latter remaining stationary while the bobbin and
friction-ring continue to rotate.
A screw
For the purpose of adjusting the spring h¹ so as to vary the tension thereof on
the under-lying thread, I may provide an independent arbor n (Figures 44 to 47
inclusive) instead of forming the same integrally, or permanently securing said
arbor to the face-plate of the bobbin-casing. This arbor has a lower recess adapted
to fit over a boss ¹ on the face-plate of the bobbin-casing so as to permit it to be
rotated thereon, and also a lower flange n² adapted to form the lower support for
the friction-disk; one end of the spring h" being secured to said flange and the
other end of said spring secured to or connected to the friction-disk as heretofore
explained. The upper end of the arbor n has a screw-threaded recess, in which
a hollow or tubular screw-threaded stem n³ is adapted to be rigidly secured, said
stem having a head of any desired form adapted to rotatably confine the sleeve or
hub of the friction-disk between the flange 2 of the arbor and said head.
or bolt n has its head fitting the tubular or hollow portion of the stem n³, and has
its screw-threaded end engaging a threaded aperture or recess in the boss n' on
the face-plate of the bobbin-casing so as to rigidly hold the arbor against said
plate. The lower surface of the flange 2 may be provided with a series of aper-
tures n adapted to engage a pin or projection 16 on the face-plate, so that by
giving the screw n a couple of turns so as to partially remove the same from the
boss n, the arbor and flange may be raised sufficiently to be disengaged from the
projection 6, and said arbor rotated independently of the bobbin-casing, thereby
adjusting the spring to any desired tension. When the spring is properly adjusted
one of the apertures of the arbor may be caused to engage the pin or projection n
and the screw n tightened, thus holding the arbor and bobbin-casing rigidly
together. It will be understood that the arbor might have the pin or projection,
and the apertures be arranged in the face-plate; that other means may be
employed for adjustably securing the arbor to the bobbin-casing, and that the
face-plate when desired may be independent of the bobbin-casing instead of being
formed integrally therewith.
It is to be understood that the adjustment for the take-up spring may be used
on other forms of loopers that various changes may be made; and that some of
the parts may be dispensed with and others substituted therefor, without depart-
ing from the spirit of my invention.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is:-
-
1. In combination with a single needle adapted to operate alternately with two

page_text: shuttles or loopers, and means for actuating the same, two continuously rotating
loopers, and mechanism for operating said loopers, each looper being provided with
a rotary bobbin, and means for automatically re-winding the bobbin-thread so as
to adapt the loopers to take up the under thread, substantially as described.
2. A sewing machine having two loopers and mechanism for driving the same,
in combination with a single needle arranged for conjoint action with said loopers,
means for causing the needle to operate with either looper independently of the
other or with both in alternation in forming successive stitches, and mechanism
for actuating the needle, substantially as described.
3. A sewing machine having a single needle and two loopers arranged for
conjoint action, means for actuating the needle and simultaneously driving both
loopers, means for automatically shifting the needle so that it shall operate first
with one looper and then with the other in forming successive stitches, and means
for automatically rewinding the bobbin threads so as to adapt the looper to take
up the under thread, substantially as described.
4. A sewing machine having a single needle and a plurality of loopers, a main
driving shaft adapted to impart a reciprocating movement to the needle bar, a
looper driving shaft for simultaneously driving the two loopers, mechanism
actuated by said main shaft for imparting a partial rotation to the needle-bar
when the needle is lifted, so as to adapt the needle to descend for operation first
with one looper and then with the other, and means for causing the needle to
operate at will with one looper only, substantially as described.
5. In a sewing machine for "flossing" the combination with a single needle
and means for imparting a reciprocating movement thereto, of means for moving
the needle laterally each time it is lifted, a looper driving shaft, a plurality of
loopers arranged to be driven by said shaft, and means for rewinding the bobbin-
threads, substantially as described, whereby a single needle is adapted to operate
alternately with a plurality of loopers and the unused thread paid out by the
bobbins is automatically re-wound.
6. In combination with the vertically reciprocating needle-bar and two loopers
arranged for conjoint action, and means for operating the same, means for vibrating
or giving a partial rotation to said needle-bar when lifted so as to adapt the
needle to operate alternately with two loopers, comprising a cam arranged to
rotate independently of but geared to the driving shaft, an oscillating lever
arranged to be actuated by said cam, a reciprocating pitman pivotally connected
to said oscillating lever and carrying a rack at its free end, and a pinion or gear-
wheel secured on said needle-bar in engagement with said rack-bar; said pinion
being arranged to permit longitudinal movement of the needle-bar while impart-
ing a rotatory or vibratory movement thereto, and a clutch device for disengaging
the needle-bar vibrating mechanism so as to adapt the needle to operate with one
shuttle only, substantially as described.
7. In a sewing machine, the combination with a reciprocating needle-bar and
means for imparting motion thereto, a movable presser-foot, a looper-race carrying
two rotating loopers, means for imparting motion to said loopers, means for lifting
the presser-foot when the needle is raised, and mechanism for imparting a vibratory
movement to the needle-bar, so as to adapt the needle to operate alternately with
the two loopers, and a clutch device for disengaging the needle-bar vibrating
mechanism so as to adapt the needle to operate with one looper only, at the will
of the operator, substantially as described.
8. In combination with two rotary loopers, each having a spring-actuated
bobbin adapted to automatically re-wind the unused bobbin thread paid out in
forming a stitch, a single needle, and mechanism for reciprocating said needle and
shifting its position laterally at each reciprocation, to adapt it to operate alternately
with the two loopers, means for stopping the motions of the needle and loopers
once during each complete revolution of the main driving shaft, and means for
lifting and holding the presser-foot in a raised position when the needle is lifted
and stopped, substantially as described.

page_text: 9. In combination with the reciprocating needle-bar and means for imparting
motion thereto, a vertically movable presser-foot and means for raising the same
each time the needle is lifted, together with a stop-device adapted to arrest the
action of the needle at each complete revolution of the driving shaft, comprising
a wheel fast on the main driving shaft provided with a peripheral lug, a con-
tinuously driven wheel loose on said shaft but in frictional engagement with said
fast wheel, a sliding bar provided with a notch or recess adapted to be thrown
across the path of movement of said lug to permit the uninterrupted passage of
the lug for continuous motion, and means for shifting said sliding bar so as to
cause the same to engage said lug and stop the main driving shaft at each
complete revolution with the needle and presser-foot lifted, substantially as
described.
10. In combination with the main driving shaft and the looper driving shaft
driven thereby, for imparting motion to the needle and loopers, respectively, two
loopers and a single needle arranged to operate with either looper,
mechanism for giving a partial rotation to the needle-bar at each
rotation of said main shaft, and a clutch device for throwing said mechan-
ism into and out of gear to adapt the needle to be reciprocated for action
with only one looper, or alternately with both, at the will of the operator, sub-
stantially as described.
11. In a sewing machine, the combination with the main driving shaft and
mechanism for imparting a reciprocating and vibratory motion to the needle-bar,
of the looper driving shaft and loopers driven from said main shaft, and a clutch
device for throwing said needle-vibrating mechanism into and out of gear, com-
prising a clutch section loose on the main driving shaft having a gear-wheel in
mesh with a gear-wheel for imparting movement to the needle-bar vibrating
mechanism, a clutch sleeve slidingly arranged on said main shaft so as to be
driven thereby while permitting free movement thereof longitudinally of the shaft,
and a lever for shifting said sleeve to adapt it to engage or disengage the loose
clutch-section, substantially as described.
12. In combination with the main driving shaft and mechanism actuated from
said main shaft for imparting a reciprocating and vibratory motion to the needle-
bar, a clutch device for throwing said main shaft into and out of gear with said
needle-bar vibrating mechanism comprising a clutch section loose on the main
driving shaft having a gear-wheel in mesh with a gear-wheel for imparting move-
ment to the needle-bar vibrating mechanism, a clutch sleeve slidingly arranged
on said main shaft so as to be driven thereby while permitting free movement
thereof longitudinally of the shaft, a lever for shifting said sleeve to adapt it to
engage or disengage the loose clutch-section, and a spring-arm carried by said
lever having a stud adapted to engage the toothed section of the clutch device
so as to hold the latter immovable in the position in which it is shifted when the
clutch is disengaged, substantially as described.
13. In combination with the vertically reciprocating needle-bar, the driving
shaft therefor, the presser-foot bar, and means for lifting the presser-foot once
during each complete revolution of said shaft, mechanism for stopping the motion
of the needle when the presser-foot is lifted, comprising a stop-wheel frictionally
geared to a continuously driven wheel on the main driving shaft and having a
lug adapted to engage a stop-bar arranged across the path of motion of the lug,
together with said stop-bar having a notch or recess therein and means for shifting
the same so as to throw said notch across the path of motion of the lug and release
the stop-wheel, whereby the latter may be caused to revolve continuously or stopped
at each rotation of the driving shaft, substantially as described.
14. A sewing machine shuttle comprising a body-portion having a rotary bobbin,
and a spring arranged to yieldingly resist the rotation of said bobbin and to reverse
its motion so as to re-wind the unused bobbin-thread when the pull upon the latter
is released, substantially as described.

page_text: 15. A sewing machine shuttle comprising a body portion having a hook, a
rotary bobbin, tensioning devices therefor, and a spring arranged to yieldingly
resist the rotation of said bobbin and to reverse its motion so as to re-wind the
unused bobbin-thread when the pull upon the latter is released, substantially as
described.
16. A sewing machine shuttle comprising a ring-shaped body-portion having
a hook, a stationary plate fixed at one side of the opening through said ring and
having an arbor projecting centrally from its inner face, a rotary plate journaled
on said arbor, a spring adapted to yieldingly resist the motion of said rotary plate,
and to restore it to normal position when moved in opposition to the spring, a stop
to limit the movement of the latter plate, a bobbin detachably journaled adjacent
to said friction-plate, and means for causing the bobbin and friction-plate
to rotate together until the motion of the latter is stopped, and to permit
independent movement thereafter of the bobbin opposed by the fric-
tional resistance, whereby the required length of thread may be paid out by
the bobbin and the unused portion thereof automatically re-wound or taken up,
substantially as described.
17. A sewing machine shuttle comprising a ring-shaped body-portion having
a hook, a stationary plate at one side of the opening in said ring having an arbor
projecting from its inner face, a rotatable friction plate or disk journaled on said
arbor within said ring, a bobbin incased in said ring arranged to rotate indepen-
dently of said friction plate but frictionally geared thereto, so as to rotate therewith,
and a spring arranged to resist the rotation of said bobbin and disk and to hold the
disk normally in a fixed position relatively to the hook and to reverse the motion
of the disk so as to return the same with the bobbin to normal position, when
moved against the force of the spring; said frictional gearing being adapted to
cause the bobbin and disk to move together and to permit independent movement
of the bobbin when the friction is overcome, substantially as described.
18. A rotating shuttle comprising a main body portion or ring having a hook
and a side plate or cover for the opening at one side of the ring, a hollow interiorly
screw-threaded spindle or arbor projecting from the inner face of said plate, a disk
journaled on said arbor, a friction-ring adjacent to said disk and means for main-
taining the proper friction or tension between said disk and ring to adapt them
to rotate together in frictional contact, a detachable bobbin locked to said friction-
ring so as to revolve therewith, means for limiting the rotatory movement of said
disk, and a spring adapted to yieldingly oppose the rotation of the disk and to
restore it to normal position when moved against the opposing force of the spring,
substantially as described.
19. A rotating shuttle comprising a ring-shaped body-portion having a hook
and a stationary plate at one side of the opening in said ring having an arbor pro-
jecting from its inner side, a disk journaled on said arbor, a spring adapted to
yieldingly oppose the rotation of the disk and to restore it to normal position when
moved against the opposing force of the spring, a friction-ring journaled on the
hub of said disk, means for maintaining the proper frictional resistance between
said friction-ring and disk to regulate the tension of the thread, means for securing
the rotating disk and friction-ring on said arbor, a bobbin locked to said friction-
ring so as to rotate therewith, and a stop for limiting the rotary movement of the
disk, whereby the bobbin, friction-ring and disk are adapted to rotate together
until the motion of the disk is stopped, whereupon the bobbin and friction-ring
may rotate together independently of the disk when the frictional resistance is
overcome, so as to adapt the bobbin to automatically re-wind or take up slack or
unused thread, substantially as described.
20. A rotating shuttle comprising a ring-shaped body having a hook, a stationary
plate or cover for one side of the opening in said ring having an interiorly screw-
threaded arbor projecting from its inner face, a rotary plate or disk journaled on
said arbor, a friction-ring engaging said disk so as to rotate in frictional contact
therewith, lock-nuts screwed upon the hub of said disk so as to maintain the proper

page_text: a
frictional contact between said friction-ring and disk, a bobbin having a bearing
on said lock-nuts and locked to said friction-ring so as to rotate therewith, a screw-
threaued plug having a flanged head screwed into said arbor so as to secure said
coiled
disk thereon, a stop for limiting the rotary movement of the disk, and
spring arranged between said stationary plate and disk, having one end fixed to said
plate and the other end thereof engaging a fixed point on said disk, so as to
yieldingly hold the disk in normal position and to restore it to such position when
moved against the force of the spring, substantially as described.
21. In combination with the rotary hook having the bobbin and the friction-
plate journaled within the ring-shaped body-portion thereof, means for regulating
the tension of the bobbin thread, a spring adapted by its recoil to reverse the
motion of the bobbin when the thread is released, and means for limiting the rotary
movement of the friction-plate while permitting independent rotary movement
of the bobbin when the frictional resistance opposing its motion is overcome,
substantially as described.
22. A rotary hook having a ring-shaped body-portion with an aperture for the
bobbin thread extending from the inside of the ring to one side thereof, a stationary
plate at one side of said ring having a hollow interiorly screw-threaded arbor
projecting from its inner face, an exteriorly screw-threaded plug fitting the interior
of said arbor having an aperture adapted to receive the bobbin-thread, a rotating
disk journaled on said arbor, a spring arranged to resist the rotation of said disk,
a bobbin journaled adjacent to said disk, and means for creating frictional resis-
tance against the rotation of the bobbin, substantially as described.
23. In a sewing machine, the combination with two loopers and mechanism for
operating the same, of a needle-bar provided with a single needle, means for
vertically reciprocating said bar, mechanism for imparting a partial rotation to
the needle-bar when the needle is lifted so as to adapt the needle to descend for
operation first with one looper and then with the other, a presser-foot, and means
for raising and lowering said foot, together with mechanism for imparting a vibra-
tory movement to the presser-foot while the latter is raised so as to correspond to
the vibratory or rotary movement of the needle, substantially as described.
24. A sewing machine having a single needle and two loopers, means for actu-
ating the needle and loopers and means for automatically shifting the needle so
that it shall operate alternately with the two loopers, a presser-foot and means
for raising and lowering said foot, mechanism for imparting a vibratory movement
to the presser-foot while the latter is raised, and means for causing the needle
and presser-foot to operate at will with one looper only, substantially as described.
25. A sewing machine having two loopers and a needle-bar provided with a
single needle, a main driving shaft for actuating the needle-bar, and a looper
driving shaft connected with and receiving motion from said main driving shaft,
mechanism for imparting a partial rotation to the needle-bar each time the
needle is lifted so as to adapt the needle to descend and operate alternately with
the two loopers, a bar provided with a presser-foot, means for raising and lowering
said bar, a cam operated by the main driving shaft, a lever adapted to be actuated
by the cam when the latter is rotated, and connections between the lever and
the presser-foot bar so as to vibrate the latter, while in a raised position, substan-
tially as described.
26. A sewing machine having two loopers and a needle-bar provided with »
single needle, a driving shaft for actuating said bar, means connected to the driving
shaft for actuating the loopers, mechanism for imparting a partial rotation to the
needle-bar when the needle is lifted so as to adapt the needle to descend for opera-
tion first with one looper and then with the other, a presser-foot and means for
raising and lowering said foot, mechanism for imparting a vibratory movement
to the presser-foot while the latter is raised, together with a clutch device for
simultaneously throwing the needle-bar and presser-foot vibratory mechanisms
into or out of gear with the driving shaft so that said needle-bar and presser-foot

page_text: may operate alternately with the two loopers or with one looper only, substantiall
as described.
27. The combination with a reciprocating needle-bar and means for imparting
motion thereto, of a vertically movable presser-foot and means for raising th
same each time the needle is lifted, a stop-wheel fast on the main driving shaf
and provided with a peripheral lug or tooth, a wheel loose on said shaft but i
frictional engagement with said stop-wheel and adapted to be continuously rotated
a sliding-bar provided with a notch or recess adapted to be thrown across the patl
of movement of said lug to permit the uninterrupted passage of the lug for con
tinuous motion, and a vertically movable cam-bar provided with a
engaging a portion of the sliding-bar for shifting said sliding-bar so as to cause
the same when operated to engage the tooth on the stop-wheel and stop the main
driving shaft at each complete revolution, with the needle and the presser-foot
lifted, substantially as described.
cam slo
28. A sewing machine looper, comprising a casing having a loop-engaging end
or point, a stationary bobbin-casing arranged in said looper casing so as to permit
the latter to revolve around said bobbin casing, a rotary bobbin arranged in the
bobbin-casing, and a spring arranged to yieldingly resist the rotation of said
bobbin and to reverse its motion so as to re-wind the unused bobbin-thread when
the pull upon the latter is released, substantially as described.
29. A sewing machine looper, comprising a casing having a loop-engaging end
or point, a bobbin-casing arranged in the looper casing and provided with a lip
or projection adapted to engage a portion of the machine so as to permit the looper
casing to revolve around said bobbin casing, a rotary bobbin arranged in the bob
bin-casing, tensioning devices, and a spring arranged to yieldingly resist the rota-
tion of said bobbin and to reverse its motion so as to re-wind the unused bobbin-
thread when the pull upon the latter is released, substantially as described.
30. A sewing machine looper comprising a casing having a loop-engaging end,
a removable bottom-plate provided with an upwardly projecting lip under said
loop-engaging end, a bobbin-casing arranged in the looper casing and provided
with a projection or lip adapted to engage a portion of the machine so as to permit
the looper-casing to revolve around said bobbin-casing, a rotary bobbin arranged
in the latter casing, tensioning devices, and a spring arranged to yieldingly resist
the rotation of said bobbin and to reverse its motion so as to re-wind the unused
bobbin-thread when the pull upon the latter is released, substantially as described.
31. A rotating looper comprising a casing provided with a loop-engaging end
or point, a bobbin-casing arranged in the looper-casing and provided with a pro-
jection or lip adapted to engage a portion of the machine so as to permit the looper-
casing to revolve around said bobbin-casing, and a rotary bobbin arranged in the
latter casing; said casing being provided with a spindle or arbor projecting from
the lower face thereof, a disk journaled on said arbor, tension devices arranged
in the arbor in engagement with the disk and bobbin, and a spring adapted to
yieldingly oppose the rotation of the disk and to restore it to its normal position
when moved against the opposing force of the spring, substantially as described.
32. A sewing machine looper comprising a casing, a rotary bobbin, means
adapted to engage the needle thread, a spring arranged to yieldingly resist the rota-
tion of said bobbin and to reverse its motion so as to re-wind the unused bobbin-
thread when the pull upon the latter is released, and means for adjusting the
tension of said spring, substantially as described.
33. A sewing machine looper comprising a casing, means adapted to engage
the needle-thread, an arbor independent of the casing, a rotatable disk, a rotary
bobbin, tensioning devices therefor, a spring having one end secured to the arbor
and its other end to the rotatable disk, so as to yieldingly resist the rotation of
said disk and to reverse its motion when the pull upon the bobbin-thread is
released, and means for adjustably securing the arbor to the casing to permit the
tension on said spring to be varied, substantially as described.
34. A sewing machine looper comprising a casing having a loop engaging end

page_text: or point, a bobbin-casing arranged in said looper-casing so as to permit the latter
to revolve around said bobbin-casing, an arbor independent of the bobbin-casing,
a rotatable disk arranged on the arbor, a rotary bobbin arranged on said disk,
tensioning devices therefor, a spring having one end secured to the arbor and its
other end to the rotatable disk so as to yieldingly resist the rotation of said disk
and to reverse its motion so as to re-wind the unused bobbin-thread when the pull
upon the latter is released, means for permitting the rotary adjustment of the arbor,
and a screw for holding the arbor and bobbin-casing together, substantially as
described.
GEORGE HELLIAR COLLEY.
WEEKS-COLLEY MANUFACTURING COMPANY,
By E. J. WEEKS,
President.
F. Wise Howorth,
46, Lincoln's Inn Fields, London, W.C., Agent for the Applicant.