IMPROVEMENTS IN THE METHOD OF AND MECHANISM FOR LASTING BOOTS AND SHOES."
Year: 1877

page_text: 26
LETTERS PATENT to Frank William Haddan, of the Firm of Herbert and
Company, Patent Agents, of 67, Strand, in the City of Westminster, for the
Invention of IMPROVEMENTS IN THE METHOD OF AND MECHANISM FOR
LASTING BOOTS AND SHOES." A communication from abroad by George
Warren Copeland, of Malden, in the County of Middlesex, and State of
Massachusetts, Gentleman, and William Storer Eaton, of the City of Boston,
in the County of Suffolk, and State of Massachusetts, Gentleman.
Sealed the 1st September 1877, and dated the 12th July 1877.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION filed by the said Frank William Haddan at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 12th July 1877.
FRANK WILLIAM HADDAN, of the Firm of Herbert and Company, Patent, Agents,
of 67, Strand, in the City of Westminster. "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE METHOD
OF AND MECHANISM FOR LASTING BOOTS AND SHOES." A communication from
abroad by George Warren Copeland, of Malden, in the County of Middlesex, and
State of Massachusetts, Gentleman, and William Storer Eaton, of the City of
Boston, in the County of Suffolk, and State of Massachusetts, Gentleman.
In the accompanying Drawing Fig. 1 is a plan view of the improved machine.
Fig. 2 is a like view enlarged of the mechanism employed for lasting the heel
and toe.
Fig. 3 is a vertical central section of said machine upon line x, x, of Fig. 1; Fig. 4
is a horizontal section of the same upon line y, y, of Fig. 3; Fig. 5 is a vertical
cross section upon line x, x¹, of Fig. 4; Fig. 6 is a vertical section upon line 2, 2,
of Fig. 1; Fig. 7 is a transverse section upon line 1, 2, of same Figure.
Figs. 8 and 9 are plan views of the improved lasting girth.
Fig. 10 is a vertical section of the machine showing the means employed for
rendering uniform the tension of each section of the lasting girth; Fig. 11 is a side
elevation of the same.
Figs. 12 and 13 are respectively a front elevation and a plan view of the toe
stretching and smoothing pad.
Fig. 14 is a plan view of the bar for moving one of the finger plates; Fig. 15 is a
like view of one of the said plates.
Fig. 16 is a side elevation of one of the wrinkle sweeping fingers.

page_text: Fig. 17 is a side elevation of one of the vertically moving jaws, showing the
attachment thereto of pincers for assisting the lasting operation.
Fig. 18 is a perspective view of the tack strip; and Fig. 19 is a cross section of
the same.
Letters of like name and kind refer to like parts in each of the Figures.
The design of the Invention is to render practicable the lasting of boots and
shoes by machinery, to which end it consists principally in the peculiar construc-
tion of the lasting girth, substantially as and for the purpose herein-after specified.
It consists farther in the means employed for securing a uniform pressure upon said
girth after the upper is drawn against the last, and while the jaws are closing
said upper over the inner sole, substantially as and for the purpose herein-after
shown.
It consists farther in the construction and operation of the plates employed for
lasting the heel and toe, substantially as and for the purpose herein-after set forth.
It consists farther in the construction and operation of the automatically re-
movable heel and toe clamp, substantially as and for the purpose herein-after
shown and described.
It consists farther in the construction and operation of the vertically rising toe
stretching and smoothing spring and pad, substantially as and for the purpose herein-
after specified.
It consists farther in the construction and operation of the automatically
adjustable toe and heel rests, substantially as and for the purpose herein-after
shown.
It consists farther in the toe clamp bar made extensible longitudinally, substan-
tially as and for the purpose herein-after set forth.
It consists farther in providing within the last a socket arranged at a right angle
to the transverse line of the toe, substantially as and for the purpose herein-after
shown and described.
It consists farther in the employment of a square tapering socket in the last for
engagement with a correspondingly shaped spindle in the machine, substantially ‘as
and for the purpose herein-after shown."
It consists farther in the means employed for varying the position of heel or toe
plates as they approach the last, substantially as and for the purpose herein-after
shown.
It consists farther in the means employed for actuating the heel and toe plates
and the toe clamps, substantially as and for the purpose herein-after set forth.
It consists farther in the means employed for adjusting the angle of the heel and
toe plates with relation to the last, substantially as and for the purpose herein-after
shown and described.
It consists farther in the employment of pincers which are attached to and move
with the vertically moving lasting jaws, substantially as and for the purpose berein-
after specified.
It consists farther in the employment of rollers upon the ends of the pincer jaws,
substantially as and for the purpose herein-after shown.
It consists farther in the employment of a tack strip and mechanism for feeding
the same forward so as to bring each tack successively beneath a reciprocating
hammer, substantially as and for the purpose herein-after set forth.
It consists finally in the construction of the tack strip, substantially as and for
the purpose herein-after shown and described.
The frame cross head and adjustable lasting fingers having been fully described
in preceding Patents, no mention of them is necessary.
The improved adjustment for regulating the vertical rise of the girth carrying
cross head C is clearly shown by Fig. 3, and it consists of the cam a operated by
the adjusting screw b moving upon the curved part of the secondary lever of the
series and the roll é attached to the third lever of the series; the face of the roll c
impinging upon the face of the cam a, the vertical face of the cam a giving the
desired height to the cross head C, and the horizontal face the rest necessary for the

page_text: girth-carrying fingers to move over the last and inner sole, the rise of the cross
head C being increased if wished by moving the cam a upon the curved line toward
the centre of the machine. To the vertical adjustable girth-carrying fingers upon
the cross head C is rigidly attached one end of the improved lasting girth D
comprised of inelastic material (shown by Figs. 7, 8, and 9), the other end of the girth
being attached to the springs d of proper strength made fast to the stands d¹, Figs.
1 and 7.
It will be clearly seen that when the cross head is raised (with a last and upper
properly secured by the heel and toe clamps) one portion of the girth must be
drawn past the other, producing upon the upper a drawing pressure commencing
at the centre or median line of the shoe, and continuing therefrom up and around
the edge and over the inner sole with a constantly increasing intensity, thus
removing all wrinkles and causing the upper to closely conform to the shape of the
last at that part subject to the action of the girth. After the tension of the lasting
girth has reached a point which enables it to remove all wrinkles from the upper
any increase in such tension is unnecessary, and not only renders necessary the
employment of more power to operate the machine, but also increases the liability
to injury and breakage of the operating parts. To remedy such defect, pivoted
upon each side of the frame is an L shaped bar D¹, which, at the upper end of its
long arm, is provided with a friction roller d². Over said roller the free end of
each section of the girth D passes downward toward the short arm of said bar, and
is connected therewith by means of a spring d. Upon the inner face of the bar D¹,
near its upper end, is provided a lug d³, which, when said bar occupies the position
shown in Fig. 10, has a vertical inner face from its lower end upward to or slightly
beyond its centre, and from thence inclines upward and outward, as shown.
bearing roller c extends horizontally outward from the contiguous portion of the
girth-carrying cross head C, and bearing against the lug, causes the bar D¹ to
maintain its outward inclination until said bearing roller passes upon the inclined
portion of said lug or cam, after which the upper end of said bar D will move
inward as the cross head C continues its upward course while the short arm of said
bar will move upward.
A
The effect of the operation described is to cause the tension of the girth D to
increase regularly while the bearing roller c is moving upward over the vertical
face of the cam ds, but after said roller reaches the inclined portion of the latter
such increase in tension ceases, and the upward motion of the short arm and the
inward motion of the long arm of the bar D¹ equal in effect upon the girth the
upward motion of the cross head, and cause said girth to maintain its tension with-
out increase or diminusion until the lasting operation is completed. In most
instances the girth constructed and operated as described will press all wrinkles out
of the upper, but in some cases it may be desirable to use pincers to aid said girth.
The pincers R are provided with long curved jaws 7, and are pivoted to a support S,
which is attached to or upon the upper ends of the rising jaws of the machine in
such position as to enable said pincers to be turned downward to any desired
angle. When the lasting jaws are at their lowest point the pincers R are placed in
position with their jaws passing over the side of the upper, and the ends of said
jaws grasping the latter near the median line, after which said lasting jaws are
moved upward, and said pincers are caused to grasp said upper with sufficient force
to cause them to draw the latter against the last as their jaws slip upward.
pincer jaws may have smooth inner ends; said ends may be covered with leather
or other similar material, or they may each be provided with a roller 1 as desired,
the object sought being to enable them to grasp the leather with sufficient
firmness to cause the latter to be thoroughly stretched without being torn or its
surface abraded.
The
The improved automatic heel and toe supports are shown in Figs. 3, 4, and 5, and
they consist of a post g with the toe rest or heel spindle g, g, secured by a set
screw, so that if wished the height can be adjusted for extreme variations. The
post rests upon the wedge or cam h actuated by the cam 7. Attached to the

page_text: cross head C, between the wedge or cam h and the arm h¹, there is interposed the
spring for the purpose of allowing the cross head C to continue its upward
motion after the wedge or cam h has caused post g and its attachments g¹, g², to
take a solid and immovable bearing upon the last.
To cause the wedge or cam to return to its normal position at the dropping of the
Cross lead C a small spiral spring h³ is used.
It is obvious that upon the moving upward of the cross head C the last held
before by the heel and toe clamping mechanism is firmly secured from dropping
before the girth-carrying fingers commence to move over the edge of the last to
form the upper down upon the inner sole. Attached to the carriage A carrying
the toe lasting and clamping mechanism and close to the toe support operates the
improved automatically adjusting friction toe stretching and smoothing pad i,
Figs. 2, 3, 4, 12, and 13, consisting of a spring formed from a T shaped piece of
proper elasticity, the cross of the T being formed to embrace the smallest toe of the
series to be operated upon, and of such length as to extend about to the front girth
strap, the curved part of the T being covered with any suitable material to produce
friction upon the upper. The time of operation of the pad i is after that of the
girth D, the pad then moving up any desired distance drawing and smoothing the
upper around the edges of the last, the post of the T allowing sufficient yield to
prevent abrasion of the material operated upon. The desired movement is commu-
nicated to the pad i in the present instance by means of the treadle j connected to
the arm moving the combined lever and slide 2 which moves the rack ³ which is
connected to and moves with the adjustable toe mechanism. The rack causes the
gear to revolve the proper distance, which in turn gives motion to the crank i²
connected to the part carrying the friction toe stretching and smoothing pad i.
Next attached to the carriage A of the toe lasting mechanism is the adjustable and
automatic toe clamp k, Figs. 1, 2, and 3. This adjustment is for the purpose of
permitting shoes having different pitch at the tread of the toe to be clamped, so
that the finger plates may be made to conform to the same.
The adjustment of the clamp is accomplished by increasing or diminishing the
length of the extensible connection by the right and left nut k². The connection ²
is moved at the proper time by the slide 3 driven by the cam path E2 of the cam E
that actuates the finger plates. The object of this clamp k, applicable equally to
either toe or heel, is to allow the wrinkle sweeping fingers to commence at the
centre of the toe or heel to perform their functions without obstruction.
The toe lasting mechanism attached to the carriage A (shown by Figs. 1, 2, 3, 6,
15, and 16) consists of first a pair of oscillating plates 1, 1, Fig. 10, with round shanks,
carrying at their outer extremities the adjustable finger plates 1, 1, Fig. 15. These
finger plates.,, are adjustable upon the arc 12, having for a centre the point of revo-
lution of the wrinkle sweeping fingers o, o, Fig. 16, and fastened in position by the set
screws m³, m¹. These oscillating plates are carried in the barrel n attached to the
small carriages n¹, n¹, moved by the levers n, m, that in turn receive motion from
the cam paths E¹ and lever C, the paths of the cam E that engage with the rolls at
the further end of the levers n² being of any convenient shape to give the proper
motion to the finger plates 11, 11, to enable them to accomplish their purpose of
smoothing the upper and causing the wrinkles to assume certain desired positions
found advantageous before nailing. The downward pressure required is produced by
the small roll at the back ends of the barrel m, n, running (during the forward motion
of, the finger plates) up the inclines n³, m³, and adjusted to the proper intensity by
the thumb screws n³, n, placed under the carrier of the inclines n³, n³.
The object of constructing the finger plates, so as to allow them to oscillate, is to
cause them automatically to conform to the contour of the tread of the inner sole
when it is pressed close to the last. The wrinkle sweeping fingers o, o, Figs. 1, 2, 3,
and 16, are pivoted to the finger plates 1, 1, by, and move around, the screw
pins o¹, o, motion being communicated to them by connection with the carriage A
by the links o², 0², swung on the screw pins 0% 0%, the object of these fingers o, 0,
being to force the wrinkles or projections left by the clamping device back from.

page_text: the end of the shoe operated upon. These wrinkle sweeping fingers, it is evident,
can be used at the heel as well as at the toe, if found desirable. The heel lasting
apparatus is substantially the same as that for the toe, the toe stretching and
smoothing pad i being replaced by the stationary elastic heel pad p, Figs 1, 3, and:6,"
reinforced at the extreme points by the spring rods p¹, pl, that cause the spring
pad p to firmly embrace the quarters the operation of the finger plates while
turning and pressing the upper over the inner sole, the function of the elastic
heel pad p being to prevent the quarters hickling away from the last by stress
applied above.
The finger plates of the heel lasting mechanism in the present instance are
adjustable to various sizes and shapes of shoes by the thumb screws p², p². In
practice, it has been found necessary to adjust that part of the toe of the last
operated upon by the toe-lasting and clamping mechanisin to a line horizontal to
the vertical axis of the machine, and to secure this result it is necessary that the
socket for the heel supporting spindle gå should be fitted square with the horizontal
line across the toe of the last before alluded to. To bring the last into line with the
heel and toe mechanism, and also be sure of firm support beneath the holo is
preferably made a tapering square, two sides of the square being in the line desired,
and the beel supporting spindle g2 being made to conform thereto. If the hole be
round and tapering, the last properly bored will come into position for the horizontal
line across the toe before mentioned.
The operation of the improved lasting machine with the various parts properly
assembled and adjusted is as follows:-The last, prepared as herein-before set forth,
with the upper secured in the usual manner, is dropped upon the heel supporting
spindle g. The carriages carrying the heel and toe clamping and lasting mechanisms
are then moved so as to clamp the last firmly at the ends and on the sole, and of
course from the preceding description of the various parts of the machine, it must
come automatically in the lines desired with the heel and toe mechanisins. Next,
the girth carrying cross head is moved upward, causing at the first part of its ascent
the heel and toe supports g', g², to move up and firmly secure the last from dropping
by stress applied above. The cross head still continuing its motion draws the girth
from the centre or median line up, around and finally over the inner sole; then the
fingers move down and press the upper firm and close to the inner sole. Partial
motion is then given to the toe lasting mechanism, the result being to remove the
automatic toe clamp and cause the finger plates to move nearly to the upper. The
improved toe stretching and smoothing pad is then raised the proper distance
necessary to enable it to stretch and smooth that part of the toc unacted upon by
the girth. Motion is again applied to the toe lasting mechanism, and the finger
plates move forward and over the edges of the last, their motion causing as herein-
before described the wrinkle sweeping fingers to move from the centre of the toe
outward, carrying before them any superfluous material, and by the time the finger
plates have arrived at the end of their forward motion the wrinkles have assumed
the only positions that the form of the fingers will allow, and the upper at the toe
has been pressed firmly to the last and inner sole. The same description taken in
connection with the body of this Specification will answer for the heel mechanism.
After the upper is formed as required, it is secured to the inner sole by any suitable
means, and the machine returned to its normal position of rest.
As a means for securing the inner sole and upper together and to the last I prefer
tacks P, and arrange the same as shown in Figs. 18 and 19, within a strip of suitable
flexible material Q, with their heads upon one side of the same and their point
projecting from its opposite side. Over the heads of said tacks is pasted a strip of
material 7 similar to that used for the strip Q, which operates to confine said tacks
in place. The tack strip is now wound upon a spool or reel, and when used is fed
by suitable mechanism beneath a reciprocating haminer, which not only drives each
tack to place, but also causes its head to cut through and be liberated from said tack
strip. After all the shoes required of one shape and style are finished, if the spring
of the thread of the last at the toc for the next lot should increase, shortening the

page_text: connexion k¹ of the toe clamp k and dropping the thumb screws n², n³, the proper
distances will give the required adjustment, so that the finger plates will move over
the upper without disturbing the inner sole or causing injury to the material operated
upon. To assist in securing this result it has been found convenient to bevel
sufficiently the edges of all parts that move over the inner sole.
The advantages of the improved machine and the various automatic motions
herein described are many and important. The girth fulfills the functions required
of it in a superior manner. Its parts are inexpensive and of great durability, and if
any one of them should be injured or become otherwise unfit for use from any cause
it can be readily replaced and adjusted without skilled attendance. No care is
required to adjust or secure the last firmly in position whatever its size, and no
matter what its shape the machine can be inade ready to receive in a few minutes.
The heel and toe clamping mechanisms automatically avoid interference with all
other moving parts. The wrinkle sweeping fingers cause that part of the toc of the
boot or shoe most exposed to view in wear to be the most perfect, and the finger
plates with their various adjustments govern perfectly the intensity with which the
upper is pressed upon the inner sole and control the position of the wrinkles, as
herein-before described.
From the description given of the operation of the improved machine it will be
plainly seen that to apply power to operate the parts now moved by band or foot
will not require further Invention, but only the ordinary skill of the draughtsman.
Having thus fully set forth the nature and merits of the Invention, what I claim
as new is,―
First. A girth for lasting the vamp, consisting of two series of unyielding straps
connected or disconnected, rigidly secured at one end to the fingers of the vamp-
lasting apparatus and at the other end to a set of springs or weights on the opposito
side of the machine, substantially as and for the purspose specified.
Second. In a lasting machine the combination of a girth composed of unyielding
straps rigidly secured at one end to the pivoted and adjustable fingers of a vamp-
lasting apparatus and at the other end to a set of springs or weights, with toe and
heel lasting mechanism automatical₁adjustable with reference to the girth while
moving to clamp the boot or shoe, substantially as and for the purpose shown.
Third. In combination with the girth D the L shaped bar D¹ pivoted to or upon
the frame of the machine provided with the roller d² (or its equivalent) and the
cam lug d³, and the bearing roller c secured to and moving with the head C, said
parts being arranged to operate in the manner and for the purpose substantially as
set forth.
Fourth. For toe lasting devices, the combination of wrinkle sweeping fingers with
oscillating, turning, and smoothing finger plates moving in unison therewith, sub-
stantially as and for the purpose shown and described.
Fifth. In a lasting machine, oscillating plates for lasting the heel or toe provided
with fingers controlling the position of the wrinkles or folds, substantially as and
for the purpose shown.
Sixth. In a lasting machine, oscillating finger plates provided with fingers for
sweeping the wrinkles or folds into the desired position, substantially as and for the
purpose set forth.
Seventh. The automatically-removable toe clamp forming an abutment for the
toe of the boot or shoe to rest against when adjusted in place, and also serving as a
clamp to prevent the boot or shoe from rising when acted upon by the girth, sub-
stantially as and for the purpose shown and described.
Eighth. The combination with reciprocating toe-lasting plates of a reciprocating
toe clamp arranged to operate between such plates, acting alternately, substantially
as and for the purpose specified.
Ninth. A spring toe stretching and smoothing pad having a vertical motion, and
also adapted to move against the upper at the toe, in combination with suitable
devices for folding the upper over upon the sole, substantially as and for the pur-
pose set forth.

page_text: Tenth. In a lasting machine, the combination of the lever j, arm 7, combined
arm and slide 2, rack, gear i³, crank i", and toe stretching and smoothing pad i,
substantially as and for the purpose shown and described.
Eleventh. The automatically-acting heel and toe supports, consisting of a post
resting upon a cam or wedge, the cam or wedge being actuated at the commence-
ment of the upward rise of the girth-carrying cross head, substantially as and for
the purpose specified.
Twelfth. In combination, the vibrating toe rest, post, and set screw, substantially
as and for the purpose shown.
Thirteenth. In a lasting machine, the combination of the arm h¹, the spring h¹,
wedge or cam h, spring h, post g, and oscillating toe support g¹, substantially as
and for the purposo set forth.
Fourteenth. In combination with the toe clamp k and slide 1, the connection ¹
made longitudionally adjustable, substantially as and for the purpose shown.
Fifteenth. In a lasting machine, the combination of a last provided with a square
tapering socket, with a correspondingly shaped spindle for receiving and sustaining
said last, substantially as and for the purpose specified.
Sixteenth. The tapering square spindle in combination with a last mortised or
bored for the reception of the spindle at right angles with a line across the tread of
the toe portion of the last, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
Seventeenth. In combination with the finger plate pivoted at one corner, the
plate. provided with the curved slot 3, which engages with a stud upon said
plate, and causes the latter to turn upon its pivotal bearing as it moves forward,
substantially as and for the purpose shown.
Eighteenth. In a lasting machine, the combination of the toe clamp k, con-
nection, nut , slide, and cam path E2, substantially as and for the purpose
shown and described.
Nineteenth. In a lasting machine, the combination of the finger plates /¹, oscillating
plates 1, barrels n, carriages n', levers n², and cam paths Es, substantially as and for
the purpose specified.
Twentieth. In combination with the rising jaws of a lasting machine, pincers
attached to and moving vertically with the same, substantially as and for the
purpose set forth.
Twenty-first. In combination with pincers which are attached to and move with
the rising jaws of a lasting machine, rollers journalled upon the jaws of said pincers,
substantially as and for the purpose shown.
Twenty-second. In the lasting of boots and shoes, a strip of flexible material
containing tacks in combination with a reciprocating hammer and mechanism for
moving said strip beneath said hammer, substantially as and for the purpose shown
and described.
Twenty-third. A tack strip composed of two pieces of flexible material secured
together, so as to confine the heads of the tacks between their contiguous surfaces,
substantially as and for the purpose specified.
In witness whereof, I, the said Frank William Haddan, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Eleventh day of July, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and seventy-seven.
F. W. HADDAN. (L.S.),