A New Kind of Tulle or Lace.
Year: 1892

page_text: France),
Date of Application (in United Kingdom), 9th Aug., 1892
Complete Specification Left. 9th May. 1893-Accepted. 10th June. 1893
Date of Application (in United Kingdom), 9th Aug., 1892
Complete Specification Left. 9th May. 1893-Accepted. 10th June, 1893
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
A New Kind of Tulle or Lace.
We CHARLES DEPOULLY and PAUL DEPOULLY both of 2 Rue Botzaris,
Paris France, Chemists do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as
follows:-
Our invention has for its object the production of a new kind of tulle presenting
a twofold effect viz. a partly thick and partly thin texture according to any pattern
or arrangement desired. The tulle is made of thrown silk or threads of animal
origin and cotton or other vegetable threads twisted together so as to form a single
thread, the one or other substance predominating according to the more or less
pronounced contrasts desired to be produced by partially carbonizing the vegetable
threads as hereafter described.
In carrying out our invention the tulle formed of composite threads of two
materials as above specified is impregnated with an acid such as dilute sulphuric
acid for example, in the proportion of from 3, 5, 7 &c. per cent. of the weight of the
tulle according to the substance and nature of the latter, or a chloride decomposable
at a low temperature may be employed for the purpose. A neutralizing or alkaline
reserve, such for example as acetate of soda thickened with gum is applied upon
the tulle by printing or otherwise, or in lieu of employing a reserve the dilute acid
thickened with mucilage may be printed or otherwise applied upon the parts of the
tulle of which the cotton or other vegetable threads are to be carbonized or
destroyed, the acid acting only on the vegetable matter.
The carbonisation of the cotton fibres is then effected by placing the tulle in a
stove heated to from 70° to 85° C.
It will be readily understood that in this manner all the parts of the tulle which
have been protected or upon which the acid exerts no action, will retain their
original texture, being composed of close meshes containing the whole of the cotton
and silk, while the unreserved parts will consist of silk tulle only the meshes of
which will be much more open and transparent and in good contrast with the
thicker reserved portions.
It will be understood that the operations as above described are given merely by
way of example and may be varied without departing from the invention which is
based not on the particular method of operating but on the novel application of
the chemical carbonizing process for the production of a new kind of tulle con-
stituting a new industrial product.
Hitherto in applying this chemical carbonizing process to fabrics with or without
reserves it has merely been sought to produce effects of colour in woven fabrics
composed of warp and weft crossing at right angles, thus for instance plain colours
have been produced as opposed to variegated portions containing two colours at
least but this process has never been applied to modify the nature of tulle
composed of mixed threads so as to obtain the twofold effect above described,
produced by the contrast of a diaphanous silk tissue with a much thicker kind
of tulle.

page_text: The process of partial chemical carbonisation may be applied to all known kinds
of silk tulle or lace such as Bobbinet, Alençon, Malines, &c., and the reserve
instead of being of gummy material may be of a resinous character and in either
case may be coloured or not as may be preferred.
Dated thie 0th dose of I rœust 1802
CHARLES DEPOULLY,
PAUL DEPOULLY,
By A. M. & Wm. Clark,
53, Chancery Lane, London, Chartered Patent Agents.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
A New Kind of Tulle or Lace.
We CHARLES DEPOULLY and PAUL DEPOULLY, both of 2, Rue Botzaris,
Paris, France, Chemists, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in
what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascer-
tained in and by the following statement:-
Our invention has for its object the production of a new kind of tulle or lace
presenting a twofold effect-viz. that of a fabric which is partly of a thick and
partly of a thin or transparent texture, these variations of texture being made in
conformity with any pattern or arrangement desired. The tulle is made of thrown
silk and threads of cotton or other vegetable fibre twisted together so as to form a
single thread, the one or other substance predominating according as the contrasts
which it is desired to produce are more or less pronounced. These novel effects
are obtained by the application of the process of chemical carbonization in such a
way as to carbonize a portion of the vegetable threads and leave the remainder
unacted on as hereinafter described.
In carrying out our invention, the tulle or lace made of composite threads of two
or more materials as above specified, is first impregnated with an acid, dilute
sulphuric acid for example, in the proportion of from 3, 5, 7, etc., per cent. of the
weight of the tulle, according to the substance and nature of the latter, or with a
solution of a chloride decomposable at a low temperature. A neutralizing or
alkaline reserve, such for example as acetate of soda thickened with gum, is then
applied upon the tulle by printing or otherwise. The carbonization of the cotton
fibres is then effected by placing the tulle in a stove, heated to from 70° to 85° C.
It will be readily understood that all the parts of the tulle or lace which have
been so protected that the acid exerts no action thereon will retain their original
texture, being composed of close meshes containing the whole of the cotton and
silk, while the unreserved parts will consist of silk tulle or lace only, the meshes of
which will be much more open and transparent and in good contrast with the
thicker reserved portions.
In lieu of employing a reserve, the dilute acid thickened with mucilage may be
printed or otherwise applied upon the parts of the tulle or lace of which the cotton
or other vegetable threads are to be carbonized or destroyed, the acid acting only
on the vegetable matter.
It will be understood that the operations as above described are given merely by
way of example, and may be varied without departing from the invention which is
not limited to the particular method of operating, but is based on the application of
the chemical carbonizing process for the production of a kind of tulle or lace
heretofore unknown and which constitutes a new industrial product. Hitherto, in
applying this chemical carbonising process to fabrics with or without reserves, it
has merely been sought to produce effects of color in woven fabrics composed of
warp and weft crossing at right angles, thus for instance plain colors have been
produced as opposed to variegated portions containing two colors at least, but this
process has never been applied to modify the nature of a tulle or lace composed of
mixed. threads so as to obtain the two-fold effect above described, produced by the

page_text: contrast of a diaphanous silk tulle or lace with a much thicker kind of tissue. The
process of partial chemical carbonization may be applied to all known kinds of silk
tulle or lace, such as Bobbinet, Alençon, Malines, etc., and the reserve, instead of
being of gummy material, may be of a resinous. character, and in either case may
be colored or not as may be preferred.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we
claim is :
The production of the new kind of tulle or lace herein described, having portions
of close texture composed of doubled threads of silk and vegetable fibres and
portions of open diaphanous texture composed of threads of silk only, from which
the vegetable fibres have been removed by chemical carbonization locally applied
in the manner specified.
Dated May 9th 1893.
C. DEPOULLY,
P. DEPOULLY,
By A. M. & Wm. Clark,
53, Chancery Lane, London, Chartered Patent Agents.