Improvements in the Manufacture of Bodices, Vests, Corsets, Jerseys, and the like.
Year: 1896

page_text: Date of Application, 4th July. 1896
Complete Specification Left, 27th Mar., 1897-Accepted. 1st May, 1897
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Bodices, Vests, Corsets, Jerseys,
and the like.
We, EDUARD KOHNBERGER, SALOMON KOHNBERGER and ALEXANDER
NEUMANN, all of 23 Schottenring Vienna I, in the Empire of Austria Hungary,
do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to a process of manufacturing bodices, vests corsets
jerseys and the like which, while made wholly of non-elastic material, are yet, in
course of manufacture, provided with an additional or inserted elastic piece at the
waist, whereby the garment is enabled to closely fit the forms or outlines of the
body, without, however, exercising upon any delicate organ more pressure than is
consistent with the preservation of the wearer's health.
The process mainly consists in placing on the waist portion or band a strip or
"breadth" of clotb, covered with suitable adhesive material, such as india rubber
solution, for example and, upon this, a number of india rubber threads or strings,
arranged parallel side by side, and stretched. Then, at the required points of such
strip, or at pre-determined distances apart, whale hones, or other stiffening ribs or
springs are placed thereon; over which ribs or stiffeners an upper or covering
strip of cloth, having adhesive material spread over its lower side, is extended.
The two strips or breadths, with the india rubber threads or strings and the
stiffeners or whale bones between them are then sent through a set of rollers and
joined on to the intermediate pieces or layers of material.
At the parts where the india rubber strings or threads have been stretched, the
material, the moment it is relieved from any tension, necessarily contracts, and this
portion of the material forms the elastic waist-band of the bodice or jersey.
In order to retain the whale bones, springs, or other stiffening ribs in the
required position, it is advisable to join or stitch together the two strips of material,
which are fixed together by the adhesive solution in the manner stated, along the
edges of the said whale bones strings or stiffeners.
To prevent bodices cut from the material of the class hereiuabove named from
becoming unduly increased in thickness at those parts of the same which are to be
joined to the front and back busks (surrounding the bust, or covering the back
and chest), and from being thereby caused to exercise an injurious pressure upon
the body of the wearer, it is advisable to fix the front-and-back busks between the
strips pasted together as described.
With this object in view, the connection between the two superposed strips is
severed for the time being by dissolving or melting the adhesive substance, say,
by means of benzine applied with a brush, or the like,-and the two strips are
separated from each other, with the result that the india rubber cords or threads
are also detached from such strips and made to withdraw for the same distance
that the adhesive substance has been dissolved, so that a perfectly free space is
formed for the purpose of stitching in the chest and back busks between the two
non-elastic bands of material.
The lower material, too, may be cut away at that part, and the upper material
utilised for enveloning the front and back busks.

page_text: Gussets may be inserted where required by cutting the material at the
desired parts and fixing the gussets in such cuts by either stitching or pasting.
Dated this 4th day of July 1896.
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
45 Southampton Buildings, London, W.C., Agents for the Applicant.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Bodices, Vests, Corsets, Jerseys,.
and the like.
We, EDUARD KOHNBERGER, SALOMON KOHNBERGER and ALEXANDER
NEUMANN, all of 23 Schottenring, Vienna 1, in the Empire of Austro Hungary,
do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is
to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement :-
This invention relates to a process of manufacturing bodices, vests corsets
jerseys and the like which, while made wholly of non-elastic material, are yet, i
in
course of manufacture, provided with an additional or inserted elastic piece at the
waist, whereby the garment is enabled to closely fit the forms or outlines of the
body, without, however, exercising upon any delicate organ more pressure than is
consistent with the preservation of the wearer's health.
The process mainly consists in placing on the waist portion or band a strip or
"breadth" of cloth, covered with suitable adhesive material, such as india rubber
solution, for example and, upon this, a number of india rubber threads or strings,
arranged parallel side by side, and stretched. Then, at the required points of such
strip, or at pre-determined distances apart, whale bones, or other stiffening ribs
or springs are placed thereon; over which ribs or stiffeners an upper or covering
strip of cloth, having adhesive material spread over its lower side, is extended.
The two strips or breadths, with the india rubber threads or strings and the
stiffet.ers or whale bones between them are then sent through a set of rollers and
joined on to the intermediate pieces or layers of material.
At the parts where the india rubber strings or threads have been stretched,
the material, the moment it is relieved from any tension, necessarily contracts,
and this portion of the material forms the elastic waist-band of the bodice or
jersey.
In order to retain the whale bones, springs, or other stiffening ribs in the
required position, it is advisable to join or stitch together the two strips of material,
which are fixed together by the adhesive solution in the manner stated, along the
edges of the said whale bones strings or stiffeners.
To prevent bodices cut from the material of the class hereinabove named from
becoming unduly increased in thickness at those parts of the same which are
to be joined to the front and back pieces (surrounding the bust, or covering
the back and chest), and from being thereby caused to exercise an injurious
pressure upon the body of the wearer, it is advisable to fix the busks between the
strips pasted together as described.
With this object in view, the connection between the two superposed strips is
severed for the time being by dissolving or melting the adhesive substance,-
say, by means of benzine applied with a brush, or the like, and the two strips
are separated from each other, with the result that the india rubber cords or
threads are also detached from such strips and made to withdraw for the same
distance that the adhesive substance has been dissolved, so that a perfectly free

page_text: space is formed for the purpose of stitching in the chest and back pieces between-
the two non-elastic bands of material.
The lower material, too, may be cut away at that part, and the upper material
utilised for enveloping the front and back pieces.
Gussets may be inserted where required by cutting the material at the desired
parts and fixing the gussets in such cuts by either stitching or pasting.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven--
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we
claim is :-
1. A process of manufacturing materials for bodices, vests or jerseys to be
made of non-elastic material and provided with elastic waist portions, such
process mainly consisting in the super-position of two pieces of material, covered
with an adhesive substance, and located at the waist portion of the garment;
between which superposed pieces, india rubber threads or cords are stretched.
parallel and in juxta-position, whale bones springs or any suitable stiffening ribs
being also inserted at the required points or distances apart; after which the two
strips of material, with the intermediate parts between them are passed through.
rollers so as to complete the attachment of the india rubber threads or cords and
of whale bones springs or ribs to the same.
2. As a novel product of manufacture, bodices corsets, vests or jerseys of non-
elastic material with elastic waist portions, manufactured by the process summarised.
in the first claim.
.
1 1007
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
45 Southampton Buildings, London, W.C., Agents for the Applicants..