Improvements in Boots and Shoes, and in the Manufacture of the same.
Year: 1890

page_text: Date of Application, 12th Mar., 1890-Accepted, 12th Apr.,
1890
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Boots and Shoes, and in the Manufacture of the
same.
We, WILLIAM DAMER, of the City of Toronto, in the County of York, in the
Province of Ontario, in the Dominion of Canada, Shoemaker, and MARY ANN DAMER
of the City of East Saginaw, in the County of Saginaw, State of Michigan, United
States of America, Governess, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in
what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement and accompanying drawings :-
The object of our invention is to provide a pattern or patterns by which the
different forms of boots and shoes are skived to the desired and varying thicknesses
to withstand the wear on these parts best, thereby increasing the life or durability of
a shoe by removing any extra or unnecessary thickness of the leather and leaving full
strength and thickness where required.
Similar letters of reference refer to similar parts throughout this specification and
the accompanying drawing in which-
Fig. 1, represents one of my patterns and the corresponding part of a shoe being
passed through a splitting machine, all of which are in section.
Fig. 2, is a plan of the pattern upon which the fronts of shoes cut out of one piece
of leather are skived, and exhibiting the forms of the portions removed.
Fig. 3, is a section on the line - of the foregoing figure.
Fig. 4, is a transverse section on the line y-y of the same figure.
Fig. 5, is a plan of the pattern for the form known as
lines of change of thickness and the area skived away, and
"Balmoral" exhibiting the
Fig. 6, is a transverse section of the foregoing figure, on the line -2.
In the drawing Fig. 1 exhibits the skiving pattern, A, in the position of going
through an adapted form of leather splitting machine having the knife and pressure
spring above and the roller beneath the table.
With a machine of this particular arrangement I am enabled to examine the action
of the work better than in some other kinds of machines which are arranged in the
reverse order and so I prefer to employ the above machine with my improvement.
The skiving pattern, A, shewn in Fig. 2 is the form for use with shoe fronts cut in
one piece, and the necessary essentials are that the pattern A should be formed of any
suitable substance or metal sufficiently firm and rigid to not be pressed out of its shape
or to bend in being passed through a splitting machine; and that it is slightly larger
than the part of the shoe placed on it, to ensure all the area intended to be removed
coming upon solid or firm backing.
The central portion a, defined by continuous lines, which at the upper end of the
pattern A, are in the form of two circular arcs meeting at an angle, is raised as shewn
in Figs. 3 and 4 which represent longitudinal and transverse sections respectively of
said pattern A, the portion a, is for the purpose of causing a corresponding amount of
leather to be removed or skived off a shoe front when passing through a splitting
machine properly adjusted, thereby leaving it a corresponding amount reduced in
thickness thinnest at centre and increasing to full thickness of the leather at the
limit of the portion a. The portion b (in front of the said portion, a) defined by the
continuation forward of the divergent side curves of the foregoing portion a,
the line c, marking the line of the toecap is a portion not raised as high and con-
sequently the leather will not be reduced so thin as the portion a, to the rear of the
shoe from the portion b.
and
With shoe fronts intended to have caps or tips on the toes the portion d, in front of
the portion b, is sometimes skived off to a thin edge in front of the line c, or else to
less than half thickness over its whole area and for either of these purposes

page_text: corresponding thickness is given the portion d, to reduce the leather in the said
portion d.
It will be observed that in shoe fronts of thick leather the portions a, b, and d, will
be skived to suitable and different thicknesses and that the remaining lateral
portions, e, e¹, will be untouched and the full original thickness of the leather left to
form the sides of the shoe all the leather being required to withstand the greater wear
on these portions. The dotted line f, across the rear part of the pattern A, indicates
the shorter length and the one in which the said pattern, A, is sometimes only
necessary for certain forms of shoes.
In Fig. 5 which represents the form in which the pattern, B, for the quarter of the
form of shoe known as "Balmoral" is shaped, the portion, g, or the flat surface
occupying the central part of said pattern, B, is the portion that would be skived off a
shoe quarter by being passed through a properly adjusted machine. The marginal
portion, h, around said portion, g, is the sloping or inclining surface between said
portion g, and the eyelet strip, i, and side, j, which are left full thickness in ordinary
heavy leather, but with extra heavy leather the eyelet strip or portion, i, would be
formed slightly raised on a special pattern, B, intended for such extra loather.
The different thicknesses of the portions g, h, i, and j, in an ordinary heavy leather
pattern, B, are shown in Fig. 6 which as before stated is a transverse section. z-z-of
the "Balmoral" quarter shewn in Fig. 5.
In the high or "Wellington" boot the pattern for which is not shown in the
drawing we propose to skive away a portion of the central front thickness and the
tongue especially in the instep.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what we
claim is―
The use of the shoe and kindred skiving patterns or plates composed of metal or
any other suitable substances and formed in the shape of different parts of the various
forms of shoes, and having increased thicknesses, or reliefs of the height and shape
desirable, substantially as shewn and described and for the purpose specified.
Dated this 11th day of March 1800
DUTTON & FULTON,
1, St. James Square, Manchester, Agents.