Improvements in Twilled Double Cloths.
Year: 1899

page_text: Date of Application, 5th June, 1899-Accepted, 21st Oct., 1899
Improvements in Twilled Double Cloths.
I, ALBERT BEAUMONT, 1, Richmond Avenue, Fartown, Huddersfield, Textilo
Designer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement:-
My invention relates to improvements in twilled double cloths, which may be
produced in either worsted, woollen, or cotton, or a combination of these or other
materials in such proportion of warp and weft as may be found suitable for the
fabrics required.
The object of my invention is to produce twilled-in direct contradistinction to
sateen-effects in cloths, the back and face of which are either identical or similar
in structure and appearance, and yet which render unnecessary any stitching
together of the warps and wefts other than the build of the fabric itself.
This I do in two ways-1st. By using two warps and one weft-and 2nd. By
useing one warp and two wefts. In the first method the two warps are
bound together by one weft, and this weft is so inserted in the cloth that it
binds the two warps (face and backing warps) together as each pick is woven,
thus avoiding any necessity for ticing or stitching.
Each pick of weft flushes alternately on the face and back of the fabric
at one and the same time, and whilst the first and every alternate pick is flushing
on the face and back, the second and each alternate picks flushes the contrary
way on the back and face, and so on throughout the cloth with the following
results:-
(A) As the first and each alternate picks are woven they form each alternato
weft twill on the face of the cloth, and also each alternate weft twill on the
back of the cloth at one and the same time.
B. As the second and each alternate picks are woven, the order of forming the
weft twills is reversed, the duplicate or complimentary weft twills to those made
by the first and each alternate pick being now formed-for example-the second
and each alternate pick of weft form each alternate weft twill on the back of the
cloth, and also form each alternate weft twill on the face of the cloth at one and
the same time, and so on throughout the cloth. Thus in the first method of cloth
construction, I use two warps (a face warp and a backing warp) but I only use
ono weft, which flushes and forms weft twills on both the back and face of the
cloth at one and the same time as fully described under sections A and B, no
stitching or tieing being required to bind the warps and wefts together other than
the build of the fabric itself.
The finest twills procurable by means of this first method (two warps and one
weft) take fourteen healds or warp threads to work the warp, and seven lags or
weft threads to work the weft, and all twills made in this method necessarily take
the following proportions :-

page_text: In the second method of construction in which I use one warp and two wefts (a
face weft and a backing weft) the warp threads are so interlaced with the weft
threads that they bind the warp and wefts together without any stitching or tieing
being necessary.
Every thread of warp flushes alternately on the face and back of the fabric, 5
and whilst the first and every alternate warp threads are flushing on the face and
on the back of the cloth, the second and every alternate warp threads flush in
the contrary way on the back and face of the cloth with the following results:-
(C) The first and every alternate warp threads in their completed weave-
form every alternate warp twill on the face of the fabric and also form every
alternate warp twill on the back of the fabric.
D. The second and every alternate warp threads reverse the order of forming
the twills-e.g. whilst the first and every alternate warp threads are forming one
series of twills on the face of the cloth and also on the back of the cloth, the
second and every alternate warp threads are forming alternate warp twills on the
back of the cloth and on the face of the cloth-thus completing the two series of
twills coinciding with the two warps used.,
Thus the warp threads flushing on the face and back of the cloth as described in
sections C and D bind the warps and weft together without any stitching or
ticing being required other than the build of the fabric itself. The two wefts
used are inserted in the usual way--the first pick working solely on the face of
the cloth, and the second pick working solely on the back of the cloth, and so on
throughout the fabric.
1
The finest twills procurable by means of this second method (one warp and
two wefts)-(a face weft and a backing weft), take seven healds or warp threads:
to work the warp, and fourteen lags or weft picks to work the weft, and all twills
made in this method must of necessity take the following proportions:-
7 healds and 14 picks.
9 healds and 18 picks.
11 healds and 22 picks.
and so on in the same ratio of healds and picks.
For the purpose of obtaining additional weight or substance to cloths made in
the methods of construction described-I insert a middle warp, or a middle weft,
or both combined. These middle threads I insert in such a way that they
have the least possible effect on the appearance of the cloth either on the back
or the face, and though I give drawings shewing methods of inserting these
middle threads in the warp of the cloth, I reserve the right to elevate or depress
these threads at such periods or in such positions as may prove suitable, and also
the right to place these middle threads in such proportions to the warp, or weft, or
both, as may be found suitable.
DRAWINGS.
Figures A and B shew weaving plans of the first method of construction-two
warps and one weft. The two warps are composed respectively of a backing warp
and a face warp which work one thread of each alternately. The weft used binds
the two warps together as each pick is woven, and flushes each alternate weft
twill on the face of the cloth and on the back of the cloth simultaneously.
Figures C and D are structural plans of A and B-and they shew the inter-
lacing of the warp and weft threads composing the weaves.
Figures E and F shew weaving plans of the second method of construction-one
warp and two wefts-In this case each warp thread forms every alternate warp
twill on the face of the fabric, and every alternate warp twill on the back of the
fabric. The weft is woven one pick of face weft and one pick of backing weft
throughout the cloth.
Figures G and H are structural plans of E and F, and they shew the interlacing
of the warp and weft threads composing the weaves.

page_text: Figures I and K are two weaving plans of the first method of construction—two
warps and one weft-with a middle thread inserted every third end. The middle
threads are marked X on the figures.
Figures L and M shew structural plans of I and K respectively-and they
exhibit the interlacing of the warp and weft threads composing the weaves, the
letters M shewing the position and working of the middle threads.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is:-
I. The manufacture of cloth made in any suitable material the back and face of
which are identical or similar in structure and appearance, and yet which require
no stitching or ticing of the warps and weft together other than the build of the
fabric itself and which are composed of two warps-(a face warp and a backing
warp) and one weft and which are made with fourteen healds and seven picks
or eighteen healds and nine picks or twenty two healds and eleven picks-or
in like ratio of healds and picks-and in which every pick of weft forms cach
alternate weft twill on the face of the cloth-and also forms each alternate weft
twill on the back of the cloth at one and the same time.
II. The manufacture of cloth-made in any suitable material-the back and
face of which are identical or similar in structure and appearance, and yet which
require no stitching or tieing of the warp and wefts together other than the build
of the fabric itself with one warp and two wefts (a face weft and a backing weft)
and which are made with seven healds and fourteen picks, or nine healds and
eighteen picks, or eleven healds and twenty two picks, or in like ratio of healds
and picks, and in which every thread of warp-in its completed weave-forms
each alternate warp twill on the face of the cloth and each alternate warp twill
on the back of the cloth.
III. The manufacture of cloth as Claims I and II with a middle warp thread,
or a middle weft thread, or both, inserted for the purpose of giving additional
weight or substance to the cloth, and which may be inserted in any proportion to
the warp, or to the weft, or to both, and the threads of such middle warp, or middle
weft, or both, may be raised or depressed at any given point or period which may
be found suitable.
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