IMPROVEMENTS IN ARTICLES OF JEWELLERY HAVING A SCALE-LIKE APPEARANCE, AND IN THE MANUFACTURE THEREOF, SPECIALLY APPLICABLE TO BRACELETS, NECKLACES, CHAINS, AND OTHER SUCH LIKE ARTICLES." PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION
Year: 1879

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Auguste Lion, of Paris, in the Republic of France,
Jeweller, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN ARTICLES OF JEWELLERY
HAVING A SCALE-LIKE APPEARANCE, AND IN THE MANUFACTURE THEREOF,
SPECIALLY APPLICABLE TO BRACELETS, NECKLACES, CHAINS, AND OTHER SUCH
LIKE ARTICLES."
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Auguste Lion at the Office
"
of the Commissioners of Patents on the 25th September 1879.
AUGUSTE LION, of Paris, in the Republic of France, Jeweller. IMPROVEMENTS
IN ARTICLES OF JEWELLERY HAVING A SCALE-LIKE APPEARANCE, AND IN THE
MANUFACTURE THEREOF, SPECIALLY APPLICABLE TO BRACELETS, NECKLACES,
CHAINS, AND OTHER SUCH LIKE ARTICLES."
My new scale like articles of jewellery (bijoux à ecailles) such as bracelets
necklaces, chains, etcetera, presents no roughness, their surface is absolutely even
and smooth, they are supple, flexible, and extensible, and may be in gold or any
other metal.
Figure 1 of the Drawing shews flatwise a portion of a strip of metal a, seen
edge wise in Figure 2, it is cut out so as to form along its whole length surfaces b
which subsequently form (for example) "serpent scales" by their super position
resulting from the continued rolling or winding of the strip u into a special form, as
shewn in Figure 3. The part a³ of the strip a which lies between the surfaces b,
has been previously sunk and occupies a lower level than that of the surfaces b,
that is to say, that the strip a is at that place lowered to the extent of its own
thickness (renvoyée de son epaisseur) in order that when the strip is rolled or
wound into spirals, the last spiral formed is allowed to receive and hold exactly the
surfaces b of the spiral in course of formation as these surfaces present them-
selves at their respective places; it is this special feature (particularité) of the
sinking of the part a¹ that allows of obtaining smooth scale-like jewellery which
does not catch.
c are bent prolongations forming hooks or tongues which take into the intervals
d between the surfaces-b of the last spiral formed as the rolling or winding takes

page_text: place, whether it be round a mandril of variable form, or without the employment of
a mandril. The tongues c which effect the connection of the spirals may remain as
shewn in Figure 4, but it is preferable to fold them against the interior of the
article to prevent the surfaces 6 forming scales from rising up. This operation is
effected by passing rods of suitable size through the article from end to end. The
surfaces b may have various shapes, and may be plain or pierced.
I may place a spiral spring in the interior of my scale-like articles of jewellery
which allows them to be wound round any part of the arm, in the case of bracelets
or armlets, as that represented in Figure 4*, and to dispose them in the hair, in
the case of articles of jewellery used as ornaments for head dresses.
these
Figure 5 shews another strip f, provided with shaped surfaces e, intended to form
scales by their superposition resulting from the rolling or winding of the said strip
into spirals. The hooks or tongues g occur between two surfaces e; they are bent, as
in Figure 6, so as to enter into the openings h, as the rolling or winding up of the
strip into spirals takes place. Figure 7 shews another strip i, without hooks or
tongues. The surfaces j adhere to the strip by the strips (lamettes) k;
surfaces are bent, as in Figure 8, to enter the spaces when the strip is rolled into
spirals; they radiate to the exterior of the article, and it is sufficient to close them
down one over the other; the strip f, Figures 5 and 6, and the strip i, Figures 7
and 8, are furnished with suitably arranged recesses for the same object as those
marked a in Figures 1, 2, 3, and 4.
'
I consider as important points,
1st. The recessing of the continuous strips in the parts which are to receive the
scale like surfaces depending from the successive spirals for the purpose of obtaining
even and smooth scale-like articles of jewellery without roughness or soldering.
2nd. The various arrangements described for obtaining the connexion of the
spirals, whether by means of hooks or tongues, or by means of surfaces intended to
shew as scales.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said Auguste Lion in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 23rd March 1880.
AUGUSTE LION, of Paris, in the Republic of France, Jeweller. "IMPROVEMENTS
IN ARTICLES OF JEWELLERY HAVING A SCALE-LIKE APPEARANCE, AND IN THE
MANUFACTURE THEREOF, SPECIALLY APPLICABLE TO BRACELETS, NECKLACES,
CHAINS, AND OTHER SUCH LIKE ARTICLES."
My new scale-like articles of jewellery (bijoux à ecailles) such as bracelets, neck-
laces, chains, etcetera, present no roughnesses, their surface is absolutely even and
smooth, they are supple, flexible, and extensible, and may be made in gold, silver,
gold plated, copper, German silver, or other metal.
I have shewn in various Figures of the Drawing, but exaggerated as to size, the
manner of obtaining my articles of jewellery by means of strips of metal wound
into spirals, and prepared as hereinafter described.
Figure 1 shews flatwise a portion of a strip of metal a; seen edge wise in
Figure 2 it is cut out, so as to form along its whole length surfaces 6 furnished with
prolongations bent, as shewn in Figure 3, to form hooks or tongues c. The surfaces
b are intended to form (for example) "serpent scales," as in the portion of an article
of jewellery shewn at Figure 4, by the superposition of the surfaces b which
results from the continued rolling or winding of the strip a into a spiral form. The
parts a¹ of the strip a which occupy the spaces between the surfaces bare stamped
at the same time as the strip is cut out and the hooks c bent, that is to say, the
parts a¹ of the strip of metal a are sunk or embossed to the extent of their own
thickness in order that when the strip is rolled or wound into spirals, the last
spiral formed receives and holds in the parts a¹ the surfaces b of the spiral in
course of formation as these surfaces present themselves at their respective places:
It is this special feature (particularité) of the sinking, embossing, or stamping
of the parts a' that allows of obtaining smooth-scale-like jewellery which does not
hook or catch.
As seen in Figure 4 the books or tongues c take into the intervals d between
the surfaces b of the last spiral formed, as the rolling or winding takes place,
whether it be round a mandril of variable form and size, or without the
employment of a mandril.
The hooks or tongues c, which effect the general connexion of the spirals, radiate
towards the centre, as shewn in Figure 5, and may remain in that state, but it is
preferable to fold them down against the internal sides of the article to prevent the
surfaces b forming the scales from rising up during the movements to which the
said article may be subjected. This operation is effected by passing through the
article from end to end rod furnished with a head of suitable size which acts
successively upon all the hooks or tongues c folding them down.
When the bracelets, necklaces, chains, or other articles are thus obtained, I pass
them through a matrix or die to render them smooth, as represented in full size
Figure 6, and I sometimes place a spiral spring in the interior of my said scale like
articles, which in the case of bracelets or armlets that may be wound round the
arm, such as that represented in the said Figure 6, allows them to be placed upon
arms of any size and at any part thereof, or to be disposed in the hair in the case
of ornaments for head dresses. A similar spring may also be placed in the inside
of necklaces.
Figure 7 shews another strip of metal f from which I obtain scale-like jewellery;
it is provided with shaped surfaces e intended to be superposed one over the other.
It is furnished with flaps g placed between the surfaces e. The said flaps are bent,
as shewn in Figure 8, to form hooks or tongues g, which effect the general
connexion of the spirals formed by the rolling or winding up of the strip f by
entering, as the winding goes on, into the openings h formed behind the surfaces e.

page_text: The hooks g enter these openings easily in order to assure suppleness and flexibility
of the articles. The parts fl of the strip of metal fare stamped or embossed and
sunk to the extent of the thickness of the strip with the same object as the parts
a Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, that is to say, to receive and hold the surfaces e as
these surfaces present themselves to their respective places, as shewn at the com.
mencement of the winding in Figure 8.
.
Figure 9 shews another strip of metal i by which scale-like articles of jewellery
are obtained without hooks or tongues. The surfaces j adhere to the strip i by the
strips (lamettes) k, bent as in Figure 10. As seen in Figure 11 the surfaces ; of
the last spiral formed are caused to enter successively into the spaces of the spiral
The strip i
in course of formation as the winding of the strip into spirals goes on.
(seen in section Figure 12) which serves for the connexion of the spirals, lies in the
groove formed by the strips (lamettes) k. It is also seen in Figure 11 that the
surfaces j radiate to the exterior of the article, and the portion shewn at Figure 13
shews that it is sufficient to fold them down one over the other, firstly, to obtain
scale-like jewellery of the kind above referred to, and secondly, to assure the general
connexion of the spirals. The parts n, Figures 9 and 11, throughout the length of
the strip are sunk or recessed to the thickness of the metal, which is done at the
same time as the cutting out. These parts n are intended to receive and hold the
surfaces as they present themselves to their respective places, as in Figure 13.
The scale-like surfaces may have various forms or contours, they may be plain or
ornamented or be pierced with holes. The section of the articles of jewellery
may be round or of other form, and they may be furnished with any suitable
fastening.
•
Having now described the nature of my said Invention and the manner in
which the same is to or may be carried into effect, I would have it understood
that what I consider as important and characteristic points, and claim as my
Invention is,―
First. The manufacture of scale-like articles of jewellery, such as bracelets,
necklaces, and chains by means of shaped continuous strips of metal wound into
spirals and provided with recessed or embossed parts for receiving the scale-like
surfaces depending from the successive spirals formed by the said strips, the
essential object of such recessed, stamped, or embossed parts being the production
of smooth and even scale-like articles of jewellery without roughnesses and
without soldering, except for the finishing of each end.
Second. The various arangements described for effecting the general connexion
of the successive spirals formed by the continuous winding of the said strips of
metal, whether by means of the hooks or tongues or of the scale surfaces which
constitute the scale-like articles of jewellery hereinbefore described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Auguste Lion, have hereunto set my hand and
seal, this Sixteenth day of March, in the year of our Lord One thousand
eight hundred and eighty.