Improvements in Buttonhole Attachments for Sewing Machines.
Year: 1895

page_text: 7.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Buttonhole Attachments for Sewing Machines.
I, JOHN DAVIS SCHOONMAKER, of No. 47 Concord Street, in the City of
Brooklyn, in the County of Kings and State of New York, United States of
America, Mechanical Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement :-
My invention has for its object to provide a sewing machine attachment of
improved and simple construction which shall be especially adapted for working
buttonholes, but shall also be capable of use for tacking pockets, crotches, or
other seams.
To these ends my invention consists in certain novel devices and combinations' of
devices, which will be hereinafter fully described.
.
"
In the accompanying drawings wherein my invention is illustrated,-
Figure 1 is a perspective view of one form of the improved attachment.
Figure 2 is a side elevation of the same, shown as applied to the presser foot and
needle bar of a sewing machine..
'
Figure 3 is a central vertical longitudinal section through the entire device.
Figure 4 is a horizontal section on the line al; ¹, of Figure 2.
Figure 5 is a bottom plan view of the device, with some parts broken away.
Figure 6 is a bottom plan view of the device, with the bottom or retaining plate
removed.
Figures 7 and 8 are perspective views of the clutch lever and its co-operating
parte, for operating the switching cam wheel, detached.
Figure 9 is a perspective view of the said clutch lever detached..
Figures 10 and 11 are views respectively in plan and end elevation showing one
of the dovetailed levors, with cross head and roller carried thereby.
Figures 12 and 13 are similar views respectively in plan and end elevation,
showing another of the levers with its cross head and roller.
Figure 14 is a central vertical longitudinal section, through the entire device,
showing a modification of the devices for shifting the cloth clamp at each end of
the buttonhole..
Figure 15 is a bottom plan view of the construction shown in Figure 14, with
some parts broken away.
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J
Figure 16 is a horizontal section on the irregular line of Figure 14, showing
only the fulcrum shifting or switching device.
Figure 17 is an elevation of the switching cam wheel.
a, a, a, represent respectively the bed and body portions of the main frame or
casing of the device. The body portions a¹, a², are constructed integral with for
permanently secured to the bed portion a, and constitute casings for the vibrating
and the switching cam wheel, respectively, and for the devices which transmit
movement to the cloth clamp as will more fully appear. The forward end of the
casing a', is provided with jaws.a, one of which is fitted with a set screw at, for
clamping, the device to the presser foot bar of the sewing machine. The casing a,
has formed thereou a rearward extension a³, for a purpose which will be noted
later on.
In the casing a¹, is jourballed a shaft b, one end of which projects beyond 'the
casing, and has fixed thereto a ratchet wheel 6'. On the shaft b, between the
casing at, and the ratchet wheel 6', is loosely pivoted a lever, having a pawl-6ª,
which is held by a spring 6, in engagement with the ratchet wheel 6 The said

page_text: lever b, has on its forward end jaws. adapted to engage over the needle set
screw and be connected thereby to the needle bar of the sewing machine. When
the device is in working position, it will appear in respect to the sewing machine
head the presser foot 2, and needle bar 3, as shown in Figure 2, with the
body or frame of the device securely clamped to the presser foot bar and the
lever 6³, secured to the needle bar. Hence under the antion of the needle bar,
the lever b, will receive an up and down rocking motion and through the
pawl 6, and the ratchet wheel b¹, will impart a step-by-step rotary motion to the
shaft b.
On the shaft b, within the casing a', is mounted a cam wheel be, having a
peripheral zigzag cam channel 67, as shown best in Figure. 4, and fixed to the
shaft b, by a set screw 68, as shown in Figure 3, or in any other suitable way.
In the casing a; is also mounted a shaft c, both ends of which project beyond the
casing. On this shaft c, is mounted a cam wheel c', which is fixed to the shaft by
alset screw castshown in Figure 3; or in any other suitable way, and is provided
with a peripheral cam channel c, c, which is constituted with two straight sections
and two camming sections, the former of which are marked e, and the latter of
which are marked e, the relation of which parts being clearly shown in Figure 4.
The camming sections c, of this wheel c', are directly opposite to each other, are
comparatively short and inclino or run at opposite angles to each other, in respect
to the axis of the cam wheel and shaft. This brings the straight sections e³, of the
cam wheel, in different but parallel planes with respect to each other, and with the
centres thereof, ou opposite sides of the centre of the cam wheel. The funotion of
the cam wheel &, in the forward casing a', is to impart the vibratory motion to the
cloth clamp, as will presently appear, and the function of said cam wheel c', in the
rear casing a³, is to impart to the cloth clamp slide a shifting movement when at
the opposite limits of its longitudinal feed, or in other words, when at the opposite
ends of the button-hole, for shifting the cloth as required, and for bringing the
same into proper relative position, with respect to the needle 4, for the working
of opposite sides of the buttonhole, as will more fully appear..
Ou the end of the shaft c, in the rear casing a, corresponding to the ratchet
wheel end of the shaft, is mounted a friction clutch for imparting a step-by-step
movement to the said shaft.c, and the switching cam wheel c, from the same
pivoted lever which imparts the step-by-step rotary motion, as hitherto
described, to the forward shaft b.
f
:
is
with
This friction clutch is beat shown in Figures 1; 4, 7, 8 and 9. A lever e
provided, with a central passage c, adapted to fit over the body of the shaft
some clearance between the two. and is provided with a clutch stud c', which is cut
away on one side, as best shown in Figures 7, 8 and 9. When in position on the
shaft c, the forward end of the lever co, is. engaged by a shoulder b, on the rear end of
the pivoted lever b. The projecting end of the shaft c, is reduced and flattened on
one side, and is engaged outward of the lever c; by a clutch disc c, having a hole of
corresponding shape for engaging with the flat-sided shaft o, so as to make the said
parts engage and turn together. A clutch ring or strap e, fits over the disc c
and the clutch, luge, of the lever c: The passage in the ring co, for the clutch
luge, opens into the passage in said ring for the disc e8. All the said parts c, cc,
are held in proper working position by a washer clo, and a screw which is tapped
into a screw threaded seat in the end of the shaft c. The rear end of the lever.c³,
is connected by a coiled spring c, to the body of the frame. The spring e¹³, tenda.
to hold the forward end of the lever c, in its uppermost position against a stop
screw c, which is provided with a bevelled stem and may therefore be adjusted to
vary the throw of the levor d³,
Ł
Having regard to the action of this clutch device, the clutch stud e', and its seat
in the ring or strap:o, constitúto the fulcrum for the lever c; and hence in virtue.
of the way in which the clutch stud c'; is cut as shown in Figures 7, 8 and 9,
the upper acute edge of said clutch stud will be turned into engagement with the
clutch disc c and will throw the clutch ring e, onto the said disc with a clamping

page_text: action on the down stroke of the forward end of the lever ; and thereby lock
the disc c', ring e, and the lever c, to turn together for one step, or during the
down stroke of the lever . When the forward end of the lever c is released or
permitted to return by the reverse motion of the lever, the spring o, will pull
down the rear end of the lever c, and throw the forward end upward to its limit
against the stop screw c¹³ and in this movement of the lever under the action
of the spring cs, the clutch lug c', will ride free from the clutch disc e; and hence
the clutch ring e, as well as the lever, will turn freely on the shaft c, and the
diso c, and bring the clutch lug c', in position for its next forward stroke. In this
way the switching can is rotated always in the same direction with a step by step
motion, the extent of which may be slightly varied by the bevelled or cam action
stem of the stop screw c¹³..
The cloth clamp, f, is rigidly secured to the forward end of a longitudinally
slotted plateƒ. Tho plate, is held in position between the bed plate a, of the
frame and a retaining or clamping plate. The slot ;, extends nearly the
eutire length of the plate ", and is engaged by a pair of cross bends and c¹,
respectively. The cross head 60 has dovetailed engagement with and slides on a
cam lever 61, located within the casing a', and is provided with a projection 6¹²
which may be in the form of a stud and roller, engaging the peripheral channel, 67,
of the cam wheel 6, from below. The lever 61, is pivoted to the main frame on.
the long screw, as best shown in Figure 3, the lower end of which works.
through both of the plates f¹and, and is engaged by a screw, headed nut,
which co-operates with some other parts to hold the said plates and in their
proper working position, relative to each other. The stem of the unt f, works
through a lateral slot, in tlie clamping or retaining plate f³, so as to permit
the two plates f¹, and f, to move freely in a lateral direction, in respect to the
said screw and nut The cross head 60, on the lever b, may be secured in
any desired position on said lever, by a set screw which works through a
longitudinal slot ; in the retaining plate and is tapped into the cross head 6¹º;
so as to clamp the same against the lever b.
."..
The cross head e; is adjustable on.a lever c", which is pivoted intermediate its
extremities by the flat screw co, as best shown in Figure 3. The forward end of
the lever c, extends under the switching cam wheel c, and is provided with a
projection c, which may be in the form of a stud and roller engaging, with the
peripheral channel 3, e, of the can wheel c. The cross bead c", is securable in
any desired position on the lever, by a set screw 18, which works through a
longitudinal slot ƒ³, in the retaining plate and is tapped through the cross
head so as to bear against the said lever c. By the screw nut fo; engaging tho
screw bolt and the set screw 61, and engaging the respective cross
heads and the cloth clamp plate f¹, is held between the retaining plateƒ³,
and the bed plate a, of the frame, with freedom for longitudinal sliding motion by
virtue of its longitudinal slot ³, and both of said plates and f, are held"
together by the set screws b and c, with freedom for a lateral motion crosswise
of the frame, by virtue of the clot
'19
The rear end of the cloth clamp plate fi; is provided with a vertical arm ƒºº,
having a slot 10. To the frame projection a, is pivoted a lever f, having a
longitudinal slot 12 In said slot 3, is mounted a screw threaded stud f¹³,
having a collar, and a jam nut, engaging the screw threaded end of said stud, and
serving to clamp the said stud to the lever ", in any desired position in the
slot. The stem of the studs, engages with the slot in the arm, rising
from the cloth clamp slide. Tlie lever, is pivotally connected as shown at, to
a slotted, double rack pitman, as shown best in Figure 2. On the switching cam
shaft at the end of the same, opposite the friction clutch device, is fixed a
segmental pinion f, which at opposite points in its revolution engages with the
respective racks and 18, cut on the upper and lower edges of the slot, in
the rack pitman: The said pitman rack, and the segmental pinion 16, are
held in position with respect to each other by a washer 20, and a thumb screw",
"

page_text: in the
which engages with a screw thread set in the end of the shaft c. The projecting
end of the shaft c, is flattened on one side and the passage for the saine..
segmental pinion 16, is made of corresponding shape so that the said pinion and
shaft will turn together. It is therefore obvious that when the teeth of the
pinion, are engaging with the ratchet teeth f, the cloth clamp slide will be
moved in one direction; and that when the said teeth of the said pinion are in
engagement with the rack teeth f, the cloth clamp plate or slide will be
moved in the opposite direction. It is equally obvious that at the opposite ends
of its stroke the cloth clamp slide, will stand still while.the segmental pinion f16,
turns through the idle parts of its path.
All the parts of the device have now been described, and it only remains to set
forth the action of the same. When the device is applied to the sewing machine,
as hitherto disclosed and as illustrated in Figure 2, the ordinary presser foot will
have been removed and will be replaced by the cloth clamp f. The sewing
machine feed must also be covered so that the cloth will be subject only to the
action of the cloth clamp f. The said cloth clamp f, is provided with a
rectangular oblong needle passage f", of the proper dimension to afford the
requisite play of the cloth in respect to the needle, for the work in hand.
Under the movement of the needle arm the two cam wheels and c¹, will
receive an intermittent or step-by-step rotary motion. The rotation of the
switching cam shaft c, will, through the segmental pinion, and the double rack
pitman, and the connections f", fimpart the longitudinal feed to the
cloth clamp plate, and the cloth clamp ; and this motion will be automatically
reversed, as described, and afford an interval of pause in the movement of the
cloth clamp, at the opposite limits of its longitudinal motion. The extent of the
longitudinal feed of the cloth clamp at each step and the total extent of
the longitudinal' feed in either direction, may be varied at will, by adjusting the
position of the lateral stud13, in the feed device lever".
During the time that the cloth clamp f, is receiving its longitudinal feed, either
in one direction or in the other, the cross head c, on the lever c", will be held
stationary by virtue of the fact, that the cam lever or roller c", will be travelling
infone or the other of the straight sections c, of the cam channel of the switching
cam wheel c¹. Whenever the cloth clamp slide reaches either of its limits, aud
during the pause while tlie segmental pinion, is moving through the idle part of
its revolution, one of said sections, c, of the switching cam channel c³, c, will
move the lever, and the cross head 14, and thereby shift the fulcrum of the
cloth clamp slide to a different position. This occurs just at the right time
required for shifting the cloth clamp and the cloth engaged thereby from one to
the other side of the buttonhole with respect to the needle; and the interval of
pause above noted, at the opposite limit of the cloth clamp's travel, together with
the action of the switching cam wheel on the fulcrum of said cloth clamp plate,"
are made to como just right for work around the end of the buttonhole.
During the whole time, whether the cloth clamp plate f; be moving longitudinally
or be standing still, the cam wheel 6, acting through the parts 6", 12, and the
cross head, will impart to the cloth clamp a vibratory or laterally swinging
motion, as required for the proper buttonhole stitch on the cloth. The extent of
this vibration may be varied, at will, as bitlierto indicated, by shifting the position
of the cross head 60, on the lever '6".
The foregoing statement accurately describes the action of the device or attach-
ment when applied for working buttonholes. But the device is also capable of
being applied to tack the corners of pockets, crotches, or other seams. To convert
the same into a tacker, it is only necessary to dispense with the switching action
of the rearmost or switching cam wheel c. This is accomplished by simply
shilting the cross head c", on the lever el, to a position where its centre is in line
with the axis of the screw bolt es, which forms the pivot or fulcrum for the
lever cl When that change is made the cloth clamp plate will receive the same
longitudinal feed and the same vibratory motion on its forward or cloth clamp end;

page_text: but the rear end of the cloth clamp slide will occupy a constant position; so far áslo
any shifting lateral motion is concerned. Hence, instead of shifting from one to
the other side, as when working a buttonhole, the fulorum of the cloth clamp slide
will remain constant and the stitches, both on the forward and backward motion.
of the slide, will come in the same line. .
"
1.
In order to prevent the cam wheels from being turned backward by their
operating levers, I provide some kind of friction devices, for bearing against the
said cam wheels, and I have shown for that purpose in this case, set screws m
and 1, which are tapped through the casing and bear at their ends respectively
one against the end of each of the same cam wheels, as clearly shown in Figure 4.
In Figures 14, 15, 16 and 17 I have shown a modified form of the devices for
shifting the cloth olamp at each end of the buttonhole for the stitching of the
opposite side of the buttonhole.. This modified form I will now proceed to
describe. The other parts of the attachment are in all respects the same as the
corresponding parts already described and the operation thereof is the same;
wherefore no further description or explanation thereof will be required.
On the shaft c, in the casing a³, is mounted a cam wheel g, (Figures 14 and 17),,
provided with a pair of diametrically opposite peripheral cam lugs or studs g,
which, lugs stand in staggered relation to each other, or in other words, are
located near opposite margins of the cam wheel. The cam wheel g, is fixed to the
shaft c, by a set screw 92, or in any other suitable way.
To the pivoted lever c¹, below the cam wheel g, is eccentrically pivoted a.
shifting block 9, (Figure 16), by means of a set screw g', or in any other suitable
way. The shifting block g³, is provided with a raised triangular surface g³, with
the large end of the triangle facing the pivoted stud gt. The ends of this triangular
surface adjacent to the pivot gt, form striking shoulders 9, for co-operation with
the stud g', of the cam wheel g. The shifting block 93, is of such size that it will.
snugly fit in the casing, as shown in Figure 16, but may be turned therein under
the action of the lug g', and the shoulders g. The wheel g, turns constantly in
one direction as shown by the arrow in Figure 14, aud the .shifting, block 9 stands
related thereto as shown in Figures 14 and 16. Hence whenever the wheel.g,
makes a half turn ono of the lugs g', on the wheel will come in contact with one of
the shoulders.9%, on the shifting blook g³, and turn the same in its soat, until the
shoulder 9, will clear the lug g. The turning of the shifting block 9, in this:
mannor will shift the pivot g, and the forward end of the lever e, which lever c,
will carry with it the cross head h, which forms the fulcrum for the cloth clamp
slide: The said shifting block g³, is shown in one of its extreme positions.in
Figures 14, 15 and 16, which is the position into which it was thrown by the. left.
hand lug on the wheel g, with respect to Figure 17. After the right hand lug g¹,
of the wheel ig, operates on the right hand shoulder 9, of the shifting block: 9³,
which it, is shown about to do in Figure 16, the said cam g³, will be, returned.
towards the left into its opposite extreme position; and thereby the cross head or
fulcrum, for the cloth clamp slide will be brought into its opposite extreme.
position. The wheel g, makes a half turn while the cloth clamp slide makes its.
complete movement in one direction. While the shifting block 9, is rocking from
one to the other of its extreme positions, the cloth clamp slide is free from. any
longitudinal motion and the needle is working around the end of the buttonhole as
above stated. By the time the segmental pinion turns. through the toothless.part
of the pitman slot f1, the shifting block ya, will have been given its movement and
the cross head h, or fulcrum for the vibrating cloth clamp. slide", will be further:
shifted laterally as required to make the needle operate on the opposite side of the..
buttonhole during the return longitudinal feed movement, of, the said cloth, clamp.
slide.
3
When the shifting block g³, is in either of its two extreme positions the pivot
thereof will be so nearly in the line of strain which falls upon the lever a from
the fulcrum or, cross head, under the vibratory movement of the cloth clamp
slide that the said shifting block will not be moved by said, vibrating action of the
L

page_text: oloth olamp slide: To further insure this result of maintaining its set. position
the shifting block gs, may be so shaped with respect to its seat that it will bind
slightly therein when in its extréme or set position. It is obvious that with the
switching mechanism above described, the cloth clamp slide may be shifted
laterally at the opposite ends of its longitudinal travel as required for properly.
working the buttonhole.
If it is desired to use this modified form of the attachment for tacking, the cross
head or fulcrum h, may be thrown backward until its centre is in line with the
axis of the screw bolt c, which forms the pivot for the lever o; in which event
no lateral movement will be imparted to the said fulcrum or cross head h, under
the swinging or shifting movement of the lover c
It should be especially noted, in regard to the improved attachment, that it is
securable to the presser foot bar of the sewing machine, and when in working
position moves with the presser foot bar. This permits the cloth in which the
buttonhole is being worked to be manipulated in any direction, in precisely the
Bame manner that cloth may be manipulated under the ordinary action of
the sewing machine. Hence the buttonholes may be worked so as to stand in any
desired direction.
It will of course be understood that various details of the construction shown
might be changed without departing from the spirit of my invention.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the pature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :
1. In a sewing machine attachment, the combination with a cloth clamp slide,
of a double rack pitman, connected with said slide, a rotary shaft receiving motion
from the needle bar and a segmental pinion driven by the said shaft and alternately
engageable with the racks of said pitman, the diameter of the pitch line of the
pinion being equal to the distance between the pitch lines of the double rack,
substantially as described.
2. In a sewing machine attacliment, the combination with a cloth clamp slide,
of a rotary shaft, receiving motion from the needle bar, a segmental pinion on the
shaft, a slotted, double rack pitman, the slot of which embraces said pinion to
permit the racks to be alternately engaged thereby, aud an adjustable stroke
lever connecting said pitman with said cloth clamp slide, substantially as
described:
3. In a sewing machine attachment, the combination with a cloth clamp slide,
and a rotary shaft receiving motion from the needle bar, of a segmental pinion
on said shaft, a slotted double rack, the slot of which embraces the pinion and
the teeth of which are alternately engageable by said pinion, a slotted arm rising
from the cloth clamp slide and a slotted lever, pivoted to the frame and also
pivotally connected to said pitman, and an adjustable stud connecting the lever
and said arm through the slot therein, and securable in any desired position on
said lever, for varying the longitudinal feed of the cloth clamp slide, substantially
.as described.
4. In a sewing machine attachment, the combination with a slotted cloth clamp
slide mounted for sliding and vibratory motion, an oscillator cam wheel receiving
motion from the needle bar and having a peripheral zigzag cam channel; a pivoted
lever engaging said cam channel and provided with an adjustable cross head
engaging the slot of said clamp slide, a switching cam wheel having a peripheral
cam chaunel constituted with two straight sections and two camming or inclined
sections, a pivoted lever engaging the channel of the switching cam wheel, and
an adjustable cross head on the switching lever, engaging the slot of said cloth
clamp slide, substantially as described.
1
5. In a sewing machine attachment, the combination with a slotted cloth clamp
slide mounted for longitudinal and vibratory motion, of a switching cam wheel
receiving motion from the needle bar, a pivoted lever subjected to the action of

page_text: said cam wheel, and an adjustable cross head on the pivoted lever engaging the
alot of said cloth clamp.slide and securable on said lever at any point, either in
line with the lever's fulcrum, or remote therefrom, for converting the device from a
buttonhole worker into a pocket tacker, or vice versa, substantially as described.
6. In a sewing machine attachment, the combination with oscillating and
switching cam wheels, of a pivoted lever receiving motion from the needle bar
and provided with a pawl engaging a ratchet wheel on the oscillator cam wheel
shaft, and a friction clutch device on the switching cam wheel shaft operated
by said pawl bearing lever on the oscillator cam wheel shaft, whereby the
switching cam wheel may be driven from the same device which drives the
oscillator cam wheel, substantially as described.
7. In a sewing machine attachment, the combination with a suitable oase or
support, of a cloth clamp slide mounted for sliding and vibratory motion, and a
pair of vibrating levers, operated from the needle bar and provided with cross
heads engaging slots in said cloth slide, at least one of which cross heads is
adjustable and adapted to be moved onto the pivotal centre of its said lever,
whereby the device may be converted from a buttonhole worker into a pocket.
or seam tacker, or vice versa, substantially as described.
Dated the 12th day of November 1895.
PHILIP M. JUSTICE,
Chartered Patent Agent, London,
For the Applicant.
PHILIP M. JUSTICE,
Chartered Patent Agent, London,
For the Applicant.