Improvements in Looms.
Year: 1898

page_text: Date of Application, 28th Feb., 1898-Accepted, 7th May, 1898
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Looms.
We, FRITZ WEVER and CARL SEEL, both Manufacturers, of Barmen, Ober-
dörnerstrasse 61, Germany, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and
in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement:-
Our invention relates to a new loom, which is especially intended for producing
such woven fabrics, which have an irregular shape and are not of flat and even
form, such for instance that they can serve as a covering or wrapping of an
irregularly shaped body, a human bust as for corsets and as described in our
Specification No. 10913/97. It is distinguished from looms of known make 1,)
by the peculiar shape of the breast beam, which has an irregular shape always
corresponding to the shape of the body, for which the fabric produced shall pro-
duce a covering or which this fabric shall receive in use; 2,) by the peculiar
shape given to the reed and the heddles or rather to the line of the mails in the
heddles which correspond to that of the breast beam; 3,) by the race board of the
shuttle and the manner of producing a clean shed, and 4,) especially by the manner
of working the reed and laying in the weft thread and means provided for that
purpose.
On the accompanying drawing the new loom is shown and its construction and
manner of working shall be explained hereafter.
Fig. 1 shows a side elevation;
2 is a plan;
4 shows a detail view of the device for working the reed;
23
"
3 a front elevation ;
"
"
5 is a detail view of a reed;
"
6 is a detail view of the heddle.
22
7 shows part of the loom in front view with the lower part of the shuttle
race in normal position.
In a frame A is mounted the main shaft B, which is driven by a pulley C and
from which the other movable parts of the loom are set in motion as will be
explained further on. At the right or rear side of the frame is placed a light
wooden frame E containing the warp bobbins, in place of a single warp beam
as usually the nature of the fabrics intended to be produced by our new loom
requiring different lengths of warp at different places of the weaving and therefore
special means for giving off various lengths of yarn at different
places. From these bobbins the yarn is drawn into the heddles F and the reed G
and thence round the breast beam H. The heddling and reeding is done as
usually, with that difference only, that the mails in the heddles are not arranged
in a horizontal or straight line,-(only for making small articles, ribbons and the
like the mails in the heddles may be arranged in a horizontal line)-but in a line
corresponding in shape to the shape of the breast beam, as clearly shown in Fig. 6.
The reed also differs from an ordinary reed in this respect; its bottom stay (9)
instead of being straight as usual, has also the (curved) shape of the outline of

page_text: the breast beam. The reed further differs from an ordmary reed by the manner
of its working and how it is arranged in the loom.
The reed instead of being arranged in a batten, is here held between two guide
blocks K, which slide on two guide bars L mounted obliquely in the main frame.
These guide blocks have brackets K surmounting them on which the reed is so
held, that when it is fully pushed backwards it will stand behind the shuttle race
board, and when it is fully drawn forwards, that is towards the breast beam, its
bottom stay will stand exactly or nearly so in the middle over the breast beam.
The moving forewards and backwards of the reed may be done, as in the example
shown, by means of cams M and levers N and as is clearly shown in Figs. 1
and 2.
The breast beam H is exchangeable and varies in form; it receives always the
shape which is prescribed by the shape of the fabric to be produced. In the
example shown on the drawing it has a wavy form resembling somewhat the bust
of a human body, because the stuff produced thereby is used for making corsets:
Between the heddles and the breast beam is arranged the shuttle race board.
This is composed of three separate parts forming together a channel of half
circular form, the two side parts P, P are fixtures, the central part P₁ can be
raised and lowered. The lowering has for its object to allow the reed to pass
through on its way backwards before a new weft is laid in; the raising of the
middle part P¹ of the race board has for its object to raise all those warp threads
which do not form a clean shed, so that when the part P₁ is raised it not only
forms a continuous semi-circular race together with the two other parts, but that
it also brings up the warp threads into place, so that they do form a clean surface
for the shuttle to pass over in the race board.
The raising and lowering of the movable part P¹ of the race board is done by
means of cams Q, levers R and bars $ properly arranged in the loom between the
two main frames; a spring T serving to pull the levers downwards and keep their
rear ends in contact with the cams.
The driving gear for the shuttle, the picker driver in ordinary looms,-- is
arranged as follows: at both sides of the main shaft bevel wheels Ü are placed
gearing together with similar wheels U¹ on obliquely arranged shafts V held in
suitable brackets at the sides of the frames and at the upper ends of which are
keyed volute cams W. These volute cams work against slides X which are pulled
against them by springs Y, which are fixed with one end on the main frame and
with the other upon arms Z, which are made to oscillate on a bolt upon which
they are keyed and which is suitably carried and held in the cross beam 6 of the
frame. On the bolt a are also fixed the (picker) drivers c which with their
circularly shaped ends reach into the race board of the fixed parts P, P. It will
be observed that the bolt a lies in the center of the circle of the race board.
Finally I have to call attention to a small bar d which is placed exactly over
the breast beam closely fitting its ouline and fixed at both sides on the frame, in
such a manner that it will not hinder the turning of the breast beam. Over this
bar are laid the warp threads before they touch the breast-beam; it has for its
object to raise the warp threads a little above the outline of the breast beam, so
that the reed when beating fast weft thread and being driven quite forewards upon
the center line of the beam, does not require to raise the threads, because by its
movement it might easily happen that thin threads are. torn, this is prevented by
passing the warp over the thin bar d.
The working of the new machine is as follows: The drawing and heddling of
the warp into the reed and the heddles having been done as usually and the yarn
baving been drawn over the bar d and round the breast beam, which is roughened
by any of the known means, the shed is opened and the reed is pushed backwards
into the position shown in Fig. 1 and in dotted lines in Fig. 4; the loose part P¹
of the shuttle-race board is then raised and brought in position that the race in
the three parts P, P1, P forms a continuous circular channel; the shuttle with the
weft thread is then driven through the shed by means of the drivers c c and their

page_text: connections and then the reed is pushed or pulled forewards to beat the weft into
the warp right up in the line of tangence of the warp threads and the breast beam.
OR close to the bar d so that the weft threads follow as closely as possible the out
line of the breast beam and the now already woven fabric, (that it is intermeshed
warp and weft threads), forms the exact wrapper of the breast beam, so that when
this is being turned by the ordinary means, that is a regulator of any known
and suitable design, the woven stuff is pulled forewards while the weaving is
going on.
It will however be observed that the pulling off of the woven stuff in our mode
of working and with our peculiar fabric can not be done as usually by the use
of a cloth beam, upon which the stuff is wound, the peculiarity in the shape of
the goods produced, does not allow this mode of working. The stuff, or as we
might say, the partial wrapper of the breast beam is taken along with it by its
rotation so much as to give sufficient hold to it upon the breast beam, that it will
be able to pull forewards the warp, it then is taken off simply by carrying it over
a barf and is then taken up by a suitable receptacle placed underneath the loom
or it may be allowed to fall on the ground.
The gist of the invention consists in this, that the loom is so constructed and so
worked that the reed is pulled forewards and beats the weft thread fast only right
up in the line of tangence between the warp threads and the breast beam or at
any rate in a line as close to that line of tangence that practically speaking the
line given to the weft thread has the form of the outline of the breast beam and
that it can not any more alter this form or take an other shape, as is the case in
ordinary weaving, where the weft is beaten tight at a certain distance from the
beam.
In order to be able to bring up the reed into the said position and beat the weft
tight upon the breast beam itself, it is necessary that the bottom stay of the reed
corresponds in its general form to the general outline of the breast beam; a further
condition is, that means are provided to raise up the warp threads of the lower shed
into the surface or the line of the shuttle race, so as to form a clean shed for the
shuttle to pass through.
The mechanism used for carrying out these ideas are of minor importance and
they may vary in construction according to the general arrangement of the loom.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what
we claim is:
-
1.) In a loom for weaving fabrics forming the envelope of rotary bodies of any
shape, exept true cylinders and true cones, an exchangeable breast beam H, the
form of which corresponds with the configuration of the stuff to be produced, in
combination with a reed G having a bottom stay of corresponding shape to the
outline of the breast beam, heddles F having their mails arranged in a
similar line, a bar d fixed closely over the breast beam in the line of tangence of
the warp threads with the breast beam, the whole as described and illustrated
and for the purpose set forth.
2.) In a loom as specified and characterized in Claim One, a shuttle-race-board
composed of two fixed parts P, P and a movable part P1, which latter can be
lowered and raised so as to allow the reed to be pushed behind the same, when
it is lowered and which raises the warp threads of the lower shed into the line of
the shuttle race, so that the race in all three parts P, P and P¹, forms a continuous
circular channel for the shuttle to pass through in the raised position of the central
part PI as described and illustrated.
3.) In a loom as specified in Claims 1 and 2 the use of an exchangeable reed,
the bottom stay of which corresponds in shape to the general outline of the breast
beam in action, so as to be able to bring the reed right up upon the breast beam
as described and illustrated.

page_text: 4.) In a loom as described in Claims one and two the use of heddles, in which
the mails in the healds are arranged in a line corresponding in shape to the general
outline of the breast beam in action as described and illustrated.
..
5.) In a loom as characterized in Claims one and two the use of a bar d fitting
close to the general outline of the breast beam in action and fixed over the same
in the line of tangence of the warp threads with the breast beam, without hinder-
ing the rotation of the breast beam.
Dated this 01+ daf Tohma
1000