Improvements in Drafting Charts for Patterns of Garments.
Year: 1886

page_text: Date of Application, 28th Dec., 1886.
Specification Accepted, 4th Feb., 1887.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Drafting Charts for Patterns of Garments.
1, ELIZABETH GARTLAND, of the City and County of Philadelphia, State of
Pennsylvania, United States of America, Inventor, do hereby declare the nature
of my invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN DRAFTING CHARTS FOR PATTERNS OF
GARMENTS, and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
The method of constructing the chart is as follows:—-
All measurements of the body are taken with the arm hole as the center or basis,
Ten inches from the lower edge of the sheet A of paper on which the pattern is to be
drafted, draw line the entire length of the square for waist line. On line 2, drawn
vertically from the center of line 1, make a dot at a distance above the waist line
corresponding to the under arm measure, and draw the line 3 parallel to line 1, said
line 3 heing designed for bust measure.
With its center on line 2, draw the circle B according to arms-eye measure, resting
on line 3. Through the center of the circle draw line 4 parallel to line 3. The portion
of said line 4 to the left of the circle being for width of back, and the portion to the
right of the circle for the width of chest. Parallel to line and tangent to the circle
draw line 5, the shoulder line ending thereon. The lines 6 and 7, which are parallel
to line 2 and tangent to the circle divide the back of the body from the front thereof.
The lines or slanting diameters of the circle are drawn at angles to the vertical
line 2, one of said lines being at an angle of 45 degrees thereto, and the other at a
little greater inclination, as shown in the figure, and are for the following uses: the
end of the upper right hand line, where it touches line 5, is the lower end of the
shoulder line the end of the lower left hand line, where it touches line 3, determines
the front scam of sleeve the end of the upper left hand line marks where fullness at
top of back shoulder begins.
:
From line 1 draw line S to point of width of back on line 4, extending the said
line & the exact length of back measure. From a point one half inch to the right of

page_text: line 8, and on waist line, draw a line to the junction of line 4, and from the upper
end of extension of line 8 or back measure, draw a line to the right of line 8 for back
of neck which line is in length one sixth of neck measure. From the end of the line
just drawn, draw a slanting line 9 which will pass near the junction of lines 5 and 6,
and connect with the diameter of the circle, which line 9 is the back shoulder line:
now dot for shoulder measure and enrve down to line 4: mark off on line 3 from
line 8 the bust measure, and draw line 10 being for front line of waist. Now draw a
line one quarter of length of neck measure from the left of the upper point of line 10,
then draw a line of same length perpendicular thereto, and from the upper end of this
last drawn line, draw line 11 (which is the front shoulder line), to the junction of lines
5 and 6, extend line 11 one half inch to the right, and slope to front neck.
At half the distance between dot A¹, used for slope of back, and line 6, make dot B
for back of side body, and one and three-quarters inch to right of A¹, make dot C,
and one half inch to left of line 6 make dot D. Dot C¹ is for front of back and D for
front of side body.
The dot E at junction of inside curve and lower right end of diameter, marks the
top of front of side body and under arm gore.
Line 12 is employed to find the front line of side body, and is obtained by drawing
from dot D to dot l'on curved line of arm hole at intersection of slanting diameter.
Line 13 in front line of under arm gore is drawn from dot E on inside of curved line
three-quarter inches to right of line 2, down to dot. G, which is the lower front of
under arm gore and on waist line.
From a little to the left of dot. F', draw line 14 for back of under arm gore; the
said dot is three fourths of an inch to left of line 2, and is at the same height with
the top of the front of the under arm gore, down to waist line.
Line 15, which is used to find back line of front body, is drawn from dot. E to
dot H and line 16, which is for hip measure is drawn parallel to line 1 below the
same.
Dots G, Hand are on waist line, the first marking the lower front of under arm
gore, the second the back of front body, and the third the lower back of under arm
gore.
Draw the curve for side body by placing the inside of curvature at dot B¹ on waist
line, and let it touch back line above line 3, and extend line into circle one half
inch, curve the line for arm from end of extended line around to touch line 4 on
opposite side.
The curve for waist line is made by beginning at the back dart and sloping up one-
half inch above line L toward line 3 and down again to back.
For darts divide the space on waist line (1) between lines 7 and 10 into three parts
by lines and leaving about three inches between said lines. From points three
quarters of an inch from said lines on both sides and on waist line, draw curved lines
to top of darts, the rear dart being one half inch higher than the front one.
The shortest part of shoulder is formed by placing points of square at top of per-
pendicular line of side neck and top of circle make a mark at shoulder measure,
then curve from shoulder line down to left of circle on line 4.
Curve the fronts from dot. E to H, and under arm gore from dot E to G, and F to J,
slope back line from dot. A¹ to bottom of line S. The pattern outlines having been
marked on the charts, as stated, they can be readily transferred by means of a tracing
wheel to paper, so that the material may be cut thereby and a perfect fit secured in
accordance with the body measurements.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said invention,
and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I claim is:
1st. The system herein described of making a chart for patterns of garments, con-
sisting in plotting thereon by means of a circle whose circumference is the proper arm

page_text: measurement of the garment to be patterned, and a waist line distant from said circle
the proper under arm measurement, slanting diameters of said circle drawn at angles
substantially as described, and other lines connected with said circle, waist line and
slanting diameters, all of the various body measurements, as set forth.
2d. An improved chart for making patterns of garments, consisting of a chart
having thereon as the basis for drawing the outlines, a circle, whose circumference is
the proper arm measure of the garment to be patterned, and a waist line distant from
the circle the proper under arm measurement, and a series of slanting diameters, as
described, and lines of the lengths of the various body measurements, all substantially
as described.
B. A chart for drafting the outlines of patterns having thereon a circle with
slanting diameters, substantially as described and shown, and lines tangential to said
circle, and other lines having a circumference equal to the proper measurement of the
garment to be patterned, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
ALLISON BROS.,
Agents for the Applicant.