IMPROVEMENTS IN AND RELATING TO MECHANISM FOR SEWING OR STITCHING BUTTON HOLES
Year: 1883

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to- William Robert Lake; of the firm of Haseltine, Lake
& Co, Patent Agents, Southampton Buildings, London, for an Invention of
"IMPROVEMENTS IN AND RELATING TO MECHANISM FOR SEWING OR STITCHING
BUTTON HOLES” Communicated to him from abroad by Charles Milton Banks,
Mechanic and St John. W. Mintzer. M.D. both of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania,
United States of America.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Robert Lake at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 23rd October 1883.
WILLIAM ROBERT LAKE, of the firm of Haseltine, Lake, and Co, Patent Agents,
Southampton Buildings, London "IMPROVEMENTS IN AND RELATING TO MECHANISM
FOR SEWING OR STITCHING BUTTON HOLES "[A communication to him from abroad
by Charles Milton Banks, Mechanic and St John. W. Mintzer. M.D. both of
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, United States of America.]
This invention relates to button hole attachments for sewing machines, and has.
for its object the provision of simple and efficacious devices of this character.
The said Invention comprises improvements in the means for effecting a recipro-
cating motion of the needle; and in the devices for effecting the feed of the cloth.
in the line of the edge of the button hole.
Referring to the means for effecting the movement of the needle, the improve-
ments consist essentially in the provision of a pivotted needle-carrier or novel
construction, arranged to vibrate in a horizontal plane and actuated directly by a
sliding cam provided with means for adjusting the throw of said carrier.
The improvements in the devices for feeding the cloth on the line of the edge of.
the button hole consists essentially in the combination with a sliding cloth-carrier
which moves the cloth lengthwise of the button hole, and a rotary disc mounted.
upon the said cloth-plate and adapted to move in the circle of the eye of the
button hole, of mechanism as hereinafter described for alternately moving the said :
cloth plate in a straight line and rotating the disc; also in the combination with .
the said sliding feed plate rotary disc and mechanism for operating the same, of a.
cloth holder secured to the rotary disc and partaking of the movements of the.

page_text: latter. Finally in certain details of construction and operation as hereinafter sev
forth.
In carrying into practice that part of this invention which relates to the needle-
operating devices, I provide a lever pivotted to a stock which stock is designed to
bo fastened to the bottom of the needle-bar of the machine by a screw. The needle
is fastened in an opening in the said lever by a set-screw. A cam is fitted by
tongue and groove in the face of the stock so that it may reciprocate thereon in a
horizontal plane. The said cam is held in place by a screw which enters the stock
passing through a slot. The lower end of the cam has two depending lugs, between
which the forward or free end of the lever projects. There is play space between
the said lugs for the end of the said lever, the extent of which is regulated by a
set-screw in one of the lugs. If desired, both the said lugs may be provided with
set screws. The upper portion of the cam is tapered, forming two inclined edges
which alternately meet opposite sides of a short pivotted lever thereby causing the
cam to be reciprocated and the needle carrying lever to be vibrated in a horizontal
plane as the machine needle-bar ascends and descends, thus producing the desired
reciprocating movement of the needle for effecting a button hole stitch. The head
of the screw by which the cam is held on the stock bears upon a spring washer of
elongated or approximately oval form which rests in a recess in the outer face of
the said stock. This allows the cam to move without binding, yet steadily.
That part of this invention which relates to the cloth-feeding mechanism
comprises two different methods of producing the straight movement of the cloth-
plate and the rotary motion of the disc which I will separately describe.
According to the first method the feed-plate or cloth-carrier is fitted in guides or
ways in the cloth-plate of the machine so that it may be moved longitudinally
thereon. The said feed plate carries a circular disc fitted in an annular recess in
the feed plate and held therein by lugs so that the surfaces of both shall be flush
and the disc capable of rotation in the plate. The said dise is formed with a
button hole slot and also on its under side with a semi-annular rack. A pawi or
dog of peculiar shape consisting of a curved arm with a tooth is attached near its
outer end. The said dog is fastened to, and partakes of the movement of, the
feed-bar of the machine, which feed-bar has the ordinary "four motion." The
said tooth engages with the teeth of the semi-annular rack, as hereinafter
described.
A rack is secured to the under side of the feed-plate and is formed in two
sections; the first section is rigidly secured to the said feed-plato while the second
section is secured on the first section by a screw passing through a slot. The
second section has also a stem provided with an encircling spiral spring, which
stem and spring rest in a recess on the upper side of the first section. By means
of this construction the second section is capable of being moved on the first
section as hereinafter set forth. Both sections have rack teeth, several of those of
the first section being removed at a point directly beneath the second section for a
purpose hereinafter set forth. A ratchet wheel and a pinion are mounted on the
same shaft and engago with the teeth of the said rack. The said ratchet is moved by a
pawl which in turn receives movement through interlocking levers from a feed-dog
a side tooth on the said dog entering an opening in the end of the said lever. The
rack is pivotted at one end and is provided at the other with a set-screw which
passes through a segmental slot, in the feed plate. By these means the said rack
may be swung into, and held in engagement with, the pinion and released therefrom
as hereinafter specified.
A cloth-holder is provided consisting of two pivotted arms provided with a spring
which tends to separate them. The first arm is rigidly secured to a rotary disc
while the second arm passes under the presser-foot and operates when the said foot
is down upon it, to hold the cloth between it and the first arm whereby the said
cloth is moved with the feed-plate and rotary disc. The arms are broadened at the
end under the presser-foot and have a button hole slot formed in each of them,
which register with a similar slot in the rotary disc.

page_text: If desired, two needles may be employed, one in the needle bar of the machine
proper, and the other in the needle carrier. If a cord be passed through an opening
and laid on the edge of the button hole, so as to be crossed by the zigzag stitch,
the button hole will be corded.
A bar is secured to the bed of the machine below the cloth-plate. It extends
laterally and proceeds halfway across a throat or slot terminating in a finger which
projects upwardly through the said slot. This finger forms a divider which
separates the edges of the slit in the cloth, which is to be stitched to form the
button hole. Beside the base of the finger there is formed in the bar an opening
for the passage of a cord, coming from a suitably located spool. This is to provide
for cording the button hole if so desired.
According to the second method of effecting the movement of the cloth-plate and
rotary disc, the cloth plate of an ordinary sewing machine has located beneath it
the main shaft which carries the hook in which is placed a bobbin, or other
equivalent device whereby the loop may be interlocked for the formation of the
stitch. As my improvements are not confined to any particular machine, I do not
deem a specific description of the bobbin hook, or its appendages necessary.
A bar is provided which in feed mechanisms constitutes, or serves as the medium
for, feeding the fabric in the direction of the seam, such bar being usually formned
with teeth or serrations to grasp or bite the cloth. For the purposes of my
invention I dispense with the teeth or serrations and utilize the said bar for the
purpose of imparting motion to a feed plate, using such appurtenances or inter-
mediate mechanism as will convert the ordinary motions of the feed-bar into a
movement of the feed-plate corresponding to the form of the button hole and
tracing the outline thereof. Such mechanism I will now describe.
The feed-plate consists of a narrow strip or plate of metal adapted to occupy, and
slide or travel in, a slot or recess of the cloth-plate running transverse of the feed
bar, or in the direction of the axis of the main shaft.
The said feed-plate is formed or provided with wings, flanges, or guides.
A circular disc occupies a corresponding opening in the said feed-plate, and has its
edge lipped or rebated so as to lie in, and turn upon, the correspondingly rebated
or chamfered portion of the opening.
The under side of the feed-plate is provided with a rack the teeth or ridges of
which lie obliquely and are in two series separated by a space or interval for a
purpose which will be explained. The underside of the plate or disc is also formed,
or provided, with a rack which is of segmental form with radial teeth or ridges and
occupies about one half of the circle of the disc. This rack terminates at one end
in a ridge lying at such an angle that when the said disc is turned half way around
in stitching a button hole, the said ridge shall be parallel with the oblique ridges
or teeth of the rack. The disc has in, or through, it an opening or slot corre-
sponding to the shape of the button hole and designed to circumscribe or embrace
the edges of the same. This opening is of the shape usually adapted for like
purposes in button hole stitching machines, being in the form of an oblong slot
terminating at one end in an enlarged circular space. In the present instance the
space is in the centre of the disc while the elongated part of the slot is radial.
The throat-plate is provided with a stud having an opening, for the play of the
needle. It is secured by screws to the machine bed-plate on a line with the
feed-bar, and adjacent thereto. The object of this stud is to afford a support to
the fabric being stitched, and to prevent such fabric from being forced down into
the throat slot on the descent of the needle. Attached to the upper surface of the
feed-bar is a dog, consisting of a straight shank and a curved arm, the latter being
shaped so as to terminate forward of the centre of the feed-plate, while including
the throat plate stud, and avoiding the opening. At either end of said dog is fixed
a tooth rising from the upper surface so as to be available for engagement with the
respective segmental and straight racks. A bolding plate serves to secure the cloth in
place upon the disc. This plate is formed with an elongated opening or slot the
edges of which embrace those of the button hole opening. Pins projecting from

page_text: the underside of the said holding plate enter holes in the disc, and when the cloth
is in position and underneath the said plate, these pins pass through the fabric and
keep it in exactly proper relation to the needle. The holding plate is provided
with a curved arm pivotted at its outer extremity, to a standard secured to an arm,
projecting or extending from the disc in line with and directly opposite the
button hole slot. A spring attached to the arm and formed with a stirrup, bears
against the under side of the curved arm so as to lift and support the said arm and
holding plate, when the latter is released from pressure on the cloth. When lowered,
the heel of the presser-foot rests on the cloth-holder pressing it down in order to
retain the goods in place. The toe or front of the presser-foot is slotted
corresponding with the slot in the throat-plate and holds the goods while drawing
up the stitch:
For the purpose of stitching eyelets I provide a disc having a circular opening in
the centre and an annular rack on the underside. This disc is used with a
stationary cloth-plate, and when impelled by the dog describes a complete circle.
The dog used with the eyelet disc should consist of a sectional piece, the shank
being dispensed with. To accommodate button holes of different lengths the rack
may be made detachable, so that various lengths of racks may be employed. The
tooth should be adjustable to conform in position to the length of rack.
To provide for cording a button hole the stud may be formed with an oblique !
aperture through which a cord taken from a spool located in any convenient
position beneath the cloth-plate passes. The reciprocating movement of the needle
carries the thread of the latter over the cord and secures or stitches the latter to
the edge of the button hole. By this means I am enabled to take the cord from
the underside of the cloth-plate, which is more convenient, and secures a more
perfect stitch than when such cord is taken from above the cloth-plate

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed
by the said William Robert Lake in the Patent Office on the 23rd April
1884.
"
WILLIAM ROBERT LAKE of the firm of Haseltine Lake & Co Patent Agents
Southampton Buildings London "IMPROVEMENTS IN AND RELATING TO MECHANISM
FOR SEWING OR STITCHING BUTTON HOLES A communication to me from abroad
by Charles Milton Bankes, [sic] Mechanic, and St John W. Mintzer, M.D. both of
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, United States of America
This invention relates to mechanism to be applied to a sewing machine, for the
purposes of sewing or stitching button holes and comprises means for effecting a
reciprocating motion of the needle; and devices for effecting the feed of the cloth
in the line of the edge of the button hole
The means for effecting the movement of the needle comprise a pivotted needle
carrier of novel construction, arranged to vibrate in a horizontal plane and
actuated directly by a sliding cam provided with means for adjusting the throw of
Baid carrier
The improvements in the devices for feeding the cloth on the line of the edge of
the button hole consist essentially in the combination with a sliding cloth carrier
which moves the cloth lengthwise of the button hole, and a rotary disc mounted
upon the said cloth plate and adapted to move in the circle of the eye of the button
hole, of mechanism, as hereinafter described, for alternately moving the said cloth
plate in a straight line and rotating the disc; also in the combination with said
sliding feed plate, rotary disc and mechanism for operating the same, of a cloth
holder secured to the rotary disc and partaking of the movements of the latter.
Finally to certain details of construction and operation, as hereinafter set forth.
Referring now to the drawing which illustrates my improvements and the
various Figures of which are hereinafter described I will proceed to describe in
detail the devices and combinations which they comprise, and will specify first
the needle operating mechanism, and secondly the cloth feeding and holding.
devices
The needle operating devices are shown in Figures 1, 2, 3ª 4ª, 11, 12, 13ª.
The devices shown in Figure 2 are intended to give the needle its zig zag motion
through the medium of the cam lever D¹.
In Figures 3 and 4*, A¹ indicates a lever pivotted at a¹ to a stock B¹ which
stock is designed to be fastened to the bottom of the needle bar of the machine by.
a screw b¹ as shown in Figure 1. The needle is fastened in an opening in the said
lever by a set screw, a³.
D¹ indicates a cam fitted by a tongue and groove d³, in the face of the stock B',
so that it may reciprocate thereon in a horizontal plane. The said cam is held in
place by a screw which enters the stock B' passing through a slot d². The
lower end of the cam D¹, has two depending lugs d¹³ d's, between which the
forward or freo end of the lever A¹ projects. There is play space between the said
lugs for the end of the said lever, the extent of which is regulated by a set-screw d¹
in one of the lugs d. If desired both the said lugs may be provided with set
screws d. The upper portion of the cam D' is tapered, forming two inclined
edges, dd, which alternately meet opposite sides of the short pivotted lever.
shown in Figure 2ª thereby causing the cam D¹ to be reciprocated and the needle
carrying lever A to be vibrated in a horizontal plane as the machine needle bar
ascends and descends, thus producing the desired reciprocating movement of the
needle for effecting a button hole stitch. The head of the screw d" by which the
cain D¹ is held on the stock B bears upon a spring washer de, of elongated or
4,4

page_text: approximately oval form which rests in a recess d" in the outer face of said stock
as shown in Figure 12 This allows the cam to move without binding, yet
steadily.
That part of this invention which relates to the cloth feeding mechanism
comprises two different methods of producing tho straight movement of the cloth
plate and the rotary motion of the disc, which I will separately describe
Referring to Figures 1º, 5º, 6º, 7, 8ª, 9 and 10", E" indicates a feed plate or
cloth carrier fitted in guides or ways in the cloth plate of the machine so that it
may be moved longitudinally thereon. The said feed plate carries a circular
disc F fitted in an annular recess in the feed plate E" and held therein by
lugs e, e, so that the surfaces of both shall be flush and the disc capable of
rotation in the plate. The said disc is formed with a button hole slot f, and also
on its under side with a semi-annular rack ƒ³.
G' indicates a pawl or dog of the peculiar shape shown consisting of a curved
arm go with a tooth g' near its outer end. The said dog is fastened to and partakes
of the movement of the feed bar H¹ of the machine, which feed bar has the
ordinary "four motion The said tooth g', engages with the teeth of the rack ƒ"
"
as herein after described.
I¹ indicates a rack secured to the under side of the feed plate E" and is formed
in two sections 1º¹. The section 10 is rigidly secured to the plate E" while the
section ¹¹ is secured on the section 10 by a screw 1 passing through a slot i¹³.
The section i", has also a stem i provided with an encircling spiral spring 16
which stem and spring rest as shewn in a recess 21 on the upper side of the
section. By means of this construction the section ill is capable of being moved
on the first section 10 and is so moved as hereinafter set forth. Both sections ¿¹º ¿¹¹
have rack teeth, several of those of the section 10 being removed at a point directly
beneath the second section i" for the purpose hereinafter set forth.
K' indicates a ratchet wheel and La pinion on the same shaft which pinion
engages with the teeth of the rack, I'. The said ratchet is moved by a pawl M
which in turn receives movement through the interlocking levers N N¹ from the
feed dog G¹a side tooth ge on said dog entering an opening n in the end of the said
lever. The rack I' is pivotted at one end as shown at 7 and is provided at the
other with a set-screw which passes through a segmental slot i in the plate E".
By these means the said rack may be swung into and held in engagement with the
pinion L and released therefrom as hereinafter specified
O indicates a cloth holder consisting of two arms o o³ pivotted at o³ and there
provided with a spring of which tends to separate them The arm o is rigidly
secured to the rotary disc F' while the arm o¹ passes under the presser foot and
operates when said foot is down upon it, as shown in Figure 1 to hold the cloth
between it and the arm o whereby the said cloth is moved with the feed plate and
rotary disc. The arms o o¹ are broadened at the end under the presser foot and
have a button hole slot formed in each of them which registers with the similar
slot f* in the rotary disc F¹.
The operation is as follows that is to say the feed plate or cloth carrier being
drawn back or inwardly, and the rack I' swung over and secured so that the paris
will occupy the relative position shown in Figure 7 the cloth to be stitched is
adjusted in the holder with the button hole slit in coincidence with the slot f* in
the rotary disc F¹. The machine being started, the pinion L moves the rack I¹
engaging with the rigid section thereof, and causes the feed plate or cloth carrier Ell
to slide lengthwise, until one side of the button hole, or from the starting end up to
the eye, has been stitched. By this time the said feed plate or carrier El has been
moved far enough for the first tooth of the semi-annular or segmental rack ƒ³ on
the disc F¹, to come into line with the tooth g' of the pawl or dog G¹. An engage-
ment of the said tooth and segmental rack now occurs, and the rotary disk is
thereby made to rotate half way around, when such engagement ceases by reason
of the pawl tooth g', passing the last tooth of the rack f. While this half rotation
of the disc is transpiring, the feed plate or carrier E" is not moving as during such

page_text: time the pinion L is in engagement with and moving the sliding rack i" and
compressing the spring being out of engagement with the rack 110 by reason
of the mutilation or absence of teeth of the latter as already specified.
As soon as a half rotation of the disc has been accomplished, the pinion L again
comes into engagement with the rigid section of the rack I' and again moves the
feed plate in the same direction as before, until the end of said rack is reached.
Though the plate E" now moves in the same direction as before, yet, as the cloth
was turned around with the disc F¹ when the latter was semi rotated as described,
the stitching now proceeds down the other side of the button hole to the finishing
end i.e., the end from which the start was made.
After the button hole is finished and the cloth removed, the disc F¹ is rotated
half way around and the feed plate moved back to its normal position. The rack
being thrown out of engagement with the pinion L after loosening the set-screw ¿¹³,
the spring serves to bring back the rack section ", to its original place.
If desired two needies may be employed, one in the needle bar of the machine
proper and the other in the needle carrier as shown in Figure 13ª If a cord be
passed through the opening 2, and laid on the edge of the button hole, so as to
be crossed by the zig zag stitch the button hole will be corded.
P indicates a bar secured to the bed of the machino below the cloth plate as at p.
It extends laterally and proceeds half way across the throat or slot f, terminating
in a finger p which projects upwardly through the said slot. This tinger forms a
divider which separates the edges of the slit in the cloth, which is to be stitched
to form the button hole. Beside the base of the finger there is formed in the bar P
an opening p², for the passage of a cord 9 shewn in Figure 11ª coming from a
suitably located spool not shown in the drawing. This is to provide for cording
the button hole if so desired.
The second method for effecting the movement of the cloth plate and rotary disc
is shown in Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 9, 10, 11 and 13 in which A indicates the cloth
plate of an ordinary sewing machine underneath which is located the main shaft B
carrying the hook in which is placed a bobbin b or other equivalent device whereby
the loop may be interlocked for the formation of the stitch As my improvements
are not confined to any particular machine, I do not deem a specific description of
the bobbin, hook or its appendages necessary.
C indicates the bar which, in feed mechanisms, constitutes or sorves as the
medium for feeding the fabric in the direction of the seam, such bar being usually
formed or provided with teeth or serrations to grasp or bite the cloth. For the
purposes of my invention I dispense with the teeth or serrations, and utilize the
said bar for the purpose of imparting motion to a feed plate, using such appur-
tenances or intermediate mechanism as will convert the ordinary motions of the
feed bar into a movement of the feed-plato corresponding to the form of the button
hole and tracing the outline thereof. Such mechanism I will now describe.
The feed plato is shown at D and consists of a narrow strip or plate of metal
adapted to occupy and slide or travel in a slot or recess a in the cloth plate,
running transverse of the feed bar, or in the direction of the axis of the main shaft.
The plate D is formed or provided with wings, flanges or guides d. A circular
disc E occupies a corresponding opening E' in the plate D and has its edge lipped
or rebated, as shown at e, so as to lie in and turn upon the correspondingly rebated
or chamfered portion e¹ of the opening El as shown. The under side of the feed
plate is provided with a rack d the teeth or ridges d², of which lie obliquely as
shown and are in two series separated by a space or interval d³ for a purpose which
will be explained. The under side of the plate or disc E is also formed or provided
with a rack which is of segmental form with radial teeth or ridges e³, and
occupies about one-half the circle of the disc. This rack terminates at one end in
a ridge e' lying at such an angle, that, when the said disc is turned half way
around in stitching a button hole, the said ridge shall be parallel with the oblique
ridges or teeth of the rack d. The disc E, has in or through it an opening or
slot ³ corresponding to the shape of the button hole and designed to circumscribe

page_text: or embrace the edges of the same. This opening is of the shape usually adapted
for like purposes in button hole stitching machines, being in the form of an oblong
slot terminating at one end in an enlarged circular space e. In the present
instance the space e is in the centre of the disc while the elongated part of the slot
is radial.
Findicates the throat plate which is provided with a stud f having an
opening for the play of the needle. It is secured by screws to the machine bed-
plate on a line with the feed bar, and adjacent thereto, as shewn in Figure 15, The
object of this stud is to afford a support to the fabric being stitched and to prevent
such fabric from being forced down into the throat slot on the descent of the
needle. Attached to the upper surface of the feed bar is a dog G consisting of a
straight shank g and a curved arm g¹ the latter being shaped so as to terminate
forward of the centre of the plate E, while including the throat plate stud fand
avoiding the opening c³. At either end of said dog is fixed a tooth g³ ³ rising
from the upper surface so as to be available for engagement with the respective
segmental and straight racks
H indicates a holding plate for the purpose of securing the cloth in place upon
the disc E. This plate is formed with an elongated opening or slot h the edges of
which embrace those of the button holo opening e. Pins h' h³ projecting from the
underside of said holding plate enter holes in the disc E and, when the cloth is in
position and underneath the said plate these pins pass through the fabric and keep
it in exactly proper relation to the needle. The holding plate H is provided with
a curved arm I, pivotted at its outer extremity to a standard i secured to an
arm i¹ projecting or extending from the disc in line with and directly opposite the
button hole slot e. A spring i² attached to the arm i¹ as shown and formed with
a stirrup bears against the underside of the arm I so as to lift and support the
said arm and holding plate when the latter is released from pressure on the cloth
The presser foot is shown at K and when lowered rests on the cloth holder,
pressing it down in order to retain the goods in place. The toe or front of the
presser foot is slotted corresponding with the slot in the throat plate and holds the
goods while drawing up the stitch
The operation is as follows that is to say the normal position of the plate D, is
that shewn in Figures 1 and 3, so that, the stud of the throat plate occupies the
inner extremity of the slot es, the latter being parallel with the sides or central
line of the plate The cloth being inserted beneath the holding plate with the
button hole slit occupying the centre of the slot e and the presser foot being
depressed, the position of the dog G is such that the tooth 3 lies just at the outer
end of and below the rack d'. By reason of the position of the feed bar, which is
just as when about to rise and travel lengthwise as in feeding, the tooth g³ is at
one side of the rack. Now, the machine being started the feed bar rises throwing
the tooth go into engagement with the first foot or ridge of the rack as shewn in
Figure 3. The feed bar then makes its forward movement and the tooth g³
moving correspondingly impinges against and bears upon the rack tooth or ridge
and so effects a longitudinal movement of the plate D to the right-The dog G
now falls and recedes in correspondence with the next movement of the feed bar to
begin its next rise and fall while the feed plate D remains stationary. During the
interval the needle descends and a stitch is formed in the usual way. The
operation is then repeated, The needle alternating in the line of its descent as
before suggested and the tooth g³ taking successively the different teeth of the rack
until the space d³ is reached, which occurs when one side of the button hole has
been stitched. By this time the segmental rack has been brought over the
tooth gas shown in Figure 9, so that the movement of the feed bar shall bring
the said tooth into engagement with the said rack, and by causing the tooth g³ to
impinge upon the teeth of the rack successively, effect a rotary movement of the
disc and with it the fabric held thereon. This rotation occurs when the end of the
button hole is reached, and the purpose of it is to produce the stitching around
the eye or circular enlargement of the button hole. Under the rotation the disc
by

page_text: describes a half circle by which the position of the elongated button hole slot e is
reversed as shewn in Figure 4. The tooth g³ now comes in contact with the
ridge e as shewn in Figure 10 and pressing against the same moves the plate D
back, so that at the next movement of the feed bar the tooth g³ will re-engage with.
the straight rack. The operation of the machine being continued the feed plate
again travels lengthwise step by step, and the stitching goes on as before, but as
the button hole plate and fabric have been reversed, the direction of the stitching
is toward the starting point of the button hole and is on the opposite edge from
where it began. Thus it will be seen, both edges and the eye of the button hole
are stitched in one continuous operation, without the necessity of making any.
change or doing other than operating the machine, as in ordinary straight line
stitching. The cloth may be now removed and the parts restored to their normal
position, by first drawing the feed plate to the left until the tooth g° coincides with
the edge of the disc then reversely rotating the latter to reverse the position of the
button hole slot, and finally the drawing plate D to the left until the throat plate
stud fis at the end of the button hole slot.
For the purpose of stitching eyelets the modification shewn in Figure 13 may be
employed. It consists of a disc having a circular opening in the centre and an
annular rack on the underside. This disc is used with a stationary cloth plate and
when impelled by the dog describes a complete circle. The dog used with the
eyelet disc should consist of the sectional piece K the shank being dispensed with.
To accommodate button holes of different lengths the rack d' may be made
detachable so that various lengths of racks may be employed. The tooth ³ should
be adjustable as shewn in Figure 14, to conform in position to the length of rack.
To provide for cording a button hole the stud f may be formed with an oblique
aperture (Figure 16) through which a cord, taken from a spool located in any
convenient position beneath the cloth plate passes. The reciprocating movement of
the needle carries the thread of the latter over the cord and secures or stitches
the latter to the edge of the button hole. By this means I am enabled to take the
cord from the underside of the cloth plate, which is more convenient and secures a
more perfect stitch than where such cord is taken from above the cloth plate.
Having thus fully described the said invention as communicated to me by my
foreign correspondents and the manner of performing the same I wish it understood
that I claim
First. The combination with the stock B¹, and the lever A¹ pivotted thereon of
a sliding cam D¹ secured on the said stock and engaging with the said lever
substantially as shewn whereby when the said slide is reciprocated the said lever
will be vibrated on the said stock, as specified.
Second. The combination with the stock B¹ and the pivotted lever A¹, of the.
slide D having depending lugs d¹s one of the said lugs carrying a set screw d
for limiting the vibration of said lever, substantially as shewn and described.
Third. The combination with the feed plate E¹ of the rack I formed in two
sections 1º the latter being adapted to slide on the former and having a
spring substantially as shewn and described.
Fourth. The combination with the feed plate E¹ of the rack I formed in two
sections ¹¹¹ and pivotted at one end, whereby when said pinion L has traversed
the teeth of both sections the said 'rack may be swung out of engagement therewith.
substantially as shewn and described.
Fifth. The combination of the feed-plate E" having the rack 1', the pawl and
ratchet M K', and the pinion L with the feed dog G', and the levers N N'
substantially as shewn and described
Sixth. The combination of the feed plate E", and the rotary disc F' having
racks f I, with the feed bar, the dog G¹, the pawl and ratchet M K¹ and the
pinion and levers N N' substantially as described, whereby the feed plate and
rotary disc are moved together when the edges of the button hole are being
stitched while the said feed plate is held stationary and the disc caused to rotate

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when the eye of the edge of the button hole is being stitched, substantially as
shewn and described.
Seventh. In a sewing machine, the combination of a feed plate adapted and
designed to be moved longitudinally and carrying a rotary or swivelled disc a
holder for securing the cloth to be operated upon on the said disc and means
substantially as described for sliding the said feed plate rectilineally without
rotating the disc, and for rotating the disc while tho feed plate is at rest, with a
needle carrier and means for reciprocating the same vertically and laterally to form
a zigzag stitch, whereby the fabric to be operated upon is secured beneath a holder
and while so held is first moved in a straight line, while one side of the button
hole is being stitched, then rotated while the eye is being formed, and then moved
straight again, while the other side of the hole is being stitched, substantially as
shewn and described
Eighth. The combination with feed plate D of detachable rack d" substantially
as set forth.
Ninth. The dog G¹ provided with the adjustable tooth g³ as and for the purpose
described.
Tenth. The combination of a sliding feed plate D and a rotating disc Ę provided
with racks d¹ and e³ respectively on their undersides with the feed bar of a sewing
machine and intermediate mechanism between the said bar and the plate and disc
whereby the motion of said feed bar slides the plate, rotates the disc and again
slides the plate continuously, substantially as set forth.
Eleventh. In a button hole attachment for sewing machines, the combination of
a bed plate having guides with a sliding plate fitted therein and carrying a disc
the said plate and disc having respectively, a straight and segmental rack on their
undersides, whereby said plate is adapted to be moved lengthwise, the said dise
rotated and said plate again moved lengthwise in the same direction the said plate
remaining stationary while the disc is rotated, substantially as described.
Twelfth. An attachment for sewing machines, comprising a cloth or feed plate
adapted to slide and a disc constructed and adapted to be rotated thereon, the said
plate having a straight rack and the said diso having a segmental or annular rack
constructed and adapted for operation in connection with the "four motion" feed
bar of a sewing machine, substantially as shewn and described.
Thirteenth. A cloth feeding device for button hole sewing, comprising a sliding
plate carrying a rotary disc the said plate and disc having respectively, on their
under sides a straight and a segmental rack, and being adapted and designed for
use in connection with a "four motion" feed bar of a sewing machine, substantially
as shewn and described.
Fourteenth. The combination with the sliding feed plate D having a mutilated
rack on its underside, of the button hole disc E having a segmental rack on its
underside and the dog G substantially as set forth.
Fifteenth. The combination with the feed plate D having a mutilated rack &¹ on
its underside with oblique teeth or ridges, of the rotary button hole plate E having
on its underside the segmental rack e with radial teeth and the tangential ridge e*,
substantially as shewn and described
In witness whereof I the said William Robert Lake have hereunto set my
hand and seal this twenty third day of April in the year of our Lord One thousand
eight hundred and eighty four.