Improved Method and Apparatus for the Production of Weaving Diagrams.
Year: 1898

page_text: PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improved Method and Apparatus for the Production of Weaving
Diagrams.
We, JAN SZCZEPANIK, Engineer, and LUDWIG KLEINBERG, Manufacturer, both of
Ungargasse 12, of Vienna III, Austria, do hereby declare the nature of this in-
vention to be as follows;-
-
In making diagrams for weaving purposes, the usual course has hitherto been
as follows:-
First a sketch of the pattern or design is transferred with lead pencil on suitable
diagram paper of suitable dimensions (see Fig. 1 of the accompanying drawings).
Then this sketch is executed in colour, in such a manner that the outlines are filled
out by full squares as shown in Fig. 2, care being taken to fill up all those squares
which are covered at least one half by the figure finally, separate portions of the
figure, and also of the ground are provided with suitable bindings (Fig. 3).
According to the method described in the Specification of our Patent No. 29230
of 1896 all these operations can be effected by means of photography by re-pro-
ducing any design, through an optical screen, on an enlarged scale direct upon
sensitized paper.
In this case, the screen employed consists of a photographic negative produced
upon a glass plate, and provided with a strong net-work of lines similar to diagram
paper and the photographic apparatus which serves to produce the diagram is
provided with a dull plate with a fine net-work of lines, the squares of which
represent the proportion of the weft threads to the warp threads, such as 1 : 1.
When the pattern has been produced upon the desired extent of squares in the
breadth of the dull plate, a picture of the desired sharpness is produced which, if
other proportions exist between the weft threads and the warp threads (more weft
threads than warp threads upon a square or vice versa) can be shortened or length-
ened in the desired direction by optical means without altering the squares, viz.:
by means of the well-known cylinder lens objectives. When the said picture of
desired sharpness has been produced then, in place of the dull plate, the screen
is employed and behind the latter there is placed a sensitized paper.
After a short exposure there is produced upon the photographic paper a picture
divided into squares which represents the coloured diagram.
For the purpose of rendering the bindings visible also upon the same, binding
screens or shading screens are employed which have fields of different degrees of
translucency corresponding to the kinds of binding. If now the positive or nega-
tive of the drawing be copied by photographic means, and at the same time the
light is deadened or softened in parts to different extents by means of the binding
screen which is arranged in front or behind the positive or negative, there is pro-
duced, by the co-operation of the deadening layer and of the toning or shading
of the positive or negative, a copy which can be used as a diagram, and upon
which, according to the toning, differently grouped fields can be seen, which agree
with the bindings selected for the different tonings.

page_text: The several bindings are represented in this case by different signs which are
rendered visible in the squares by means of photography, and which represent
different colours in which the pattern is painted; as is well known, for the purpose
of better distinguishing the several squares, and which, as they have a different
photographic effect, cause the diagram to appear in various tones (white, gray and
black).
Now the method forming the subject of the present invention, and the apparatus
serving to carry out the said method, have for object to perfect this mode of making
the diagrams by photography and the screens employed therefor. By this improve-
ment, on the one hand, the squares indicating the colours and the modes of binding
are shown (especially in the outline), much sharper and more accurately conforming
to the pattern whilst the faults or inaccuracies of reproduction which occurred in
the former process are entirely avoided. On the other hand, a smaller number of
appliances are required to replace the screens and these can be made not only much
cheaper and lighter, but there is also obviated the drawback which is produced by
the grain of the gelatine (upon which the screens have hitherto been made) which
grain interferes with the degree of transparency. The present method is based
on the well-known optical fact that every point of a projected image is produced by
the crossing of the rays forming a cone, and that if a plate with a fine aperture be
arranged in the place of the projection of the image, the rays which pass on
through the said aperture will again form a cone, whose sectional figure, ou a sen-
sitized surface arranged behind the hole-plate will be similar in form to the open-
ing in the shutter or diaphragm of the objective.
If the opening in the shutter has the form of a square, triangle, or circle, the
projected image will have a similar form. A plate, therefore, which is provided
with a great number of small apertures which constitute as many hole cameras,
will, when the number of the apertures is as great as that of the squares, reproduce
the projection of the opening, of the shutter in each of these squares upon the dull
plate that is provided with the net-work of lines, provided that all the apertures in
the hole-plate coincide with the centre of each square of the dull plate. The whole
of the projected image will therefore appear upon the paper in the same forms as
those of the outline shape of the aperture in the shutter.
In the practical application of these facts in accordance with the present inven-
tion, first the pattern is projected upon the desired number of squares in the
length and breadth of the dull plate, then the latter is removed from the frame of
the taking-table, and is replaced by a perforated plate of the kind above described
whilst, in a second frame behind the same, there is fixed a sensitized paper, upon
which, when the frames are properly and sharply adjusted, with reference to each
other, to the objective, and to the copy or pattern fixed upon a frame, the whole
projected image will appear covered with figures such as will coincide with the
shape of the aperture in the shutter and which will be square, when the said
aperture is of a square shape.
The photographic action is therefore exactly the same as that which was effected
by filling up the squares by hand, as hitherto practised.
Fig. 4 illustrates the dull plate ruled in the same manner as diagram paper, and
Fig. 5 illustrates a hole-plate used when a shutter with square aperture is em-
ployed. When the squares projected through the hole-plate are somewhat smaller
than the squares on the dull plate; white intermediate lines are produced which
form squares in the figure, as shown by the projection illustrated in Fig. 6.
In order now to show the squares also in the ground of the pattern, which ground
is to be reproduced photographically; a shutter or diaphragm is employed, the
square aperture of which is filled up by an opaque square to such an extent that
only slits in the form of an outlined square are left for the passage of the rays of
light as shown in Fig. 7, which illustrates a shutter of this kind. When the
projected squares are of the same size as those of the dull plate, the lines coincide,
and ordinary squares are produced as shown in Fig. 8.

page_text: But if the squares are smaller, then square fields are produced which are sepa-
rated from one another by a square net of intermediate spaces as shown in Fig. 9.
The colours employed for better distinguishing the several squares of the diagram
are, in this method, represented by squares with different kinds of signs which
latter can be also produced by corresponding shutters whose apertures constitute,
for example, triangles, one or more slits, one large circle or a number of smaller
circles.
In order to enable each separate colour of the pattern to be photographed, the
well-known colour filters are employed, or the pattern is split up into a number of
separate negative portions, corresponding to the shutters to be used one after the
other, which portions constitute a so-called mask-copy or pattern, and which are
placed accurately upon one another in front of the objective, and are photographed
in succession, with the result of obtaining the advantage of a shortening of the
time of exposure, as compared with colour filters.
In this manner, it is possible to produce any desired shading of the colour tones
gray and black which can be produced by photography, and which corresponds to
a definite colour of a scale of colours.
The bindings, which are also illustrated upon the diagrams, and which have hither-
to been indicated upon different fields of the same by means of squares differently
arranged, and of different colours, may, according to the present invention, be
produced with the aid of so-called binding plates, which are placed close up against
the hole-plate, and which cover over the corresponding apertures in the latter, in
such a manner as to produce a representation of a desired binding.
Figs. 10 to 13 illustrate, by way of example, binding plates of this kind, that
is to say, the modes of binding produced by their means, Fig. 13 showing a
so-called combined binding which can be produced either by copying the same
place with two binding plates one after the other, or in once.
Binding plates of this kind are preferably produced by photography in the form
of negatives and they have the great advantage that a small number of such plates
can serve to produce a larger number of different kinds of bindings.
For shaded patterns, the different degrees of translucency which produce repre-
sentations of the different bindings are produced with the aid of a hole-plate
formed with apertures of different sizes (Fig 14). The squares in that case may
also be made by means of shutters. But since the apertures in the hole-plate are
of different sizes, the squares will appear differently copied. This will be a draw-
back which interferes, however, but very slightly, and can be obviated by
employing in place of the hole-plates shown in Fig. 14, the shaded-hole-plate
shown in Fig. 15 which is provided, in addition to the holes, also with white
squares, and which copies first the squares and then the holes.
For this purpose, there is placed upon the shaded hole-plate, first the cover plate
shown in Fig. 16 which has for object to cover the holes so as to allow of first
copying the squares. Then this cover plate is removed and in its place there is
placed a second cover plate (Fig. 17) which covers the squares of the shading hole-
plate, but which exposes the holes in the same for the purposes of copying, so that
therefore the squares are not further affected by the second copying.
The shading hole-plates may also be dispensed with if the projected image with
the corresponding bindings be copied with the help of the hole plates (Fig. 5) and
of the herein before described binding plates (for example Fig. 11) with each of the
two plates separately, and for exactly the same time, but with the use of different
shutters in the objective.
Thus, for example, first one binding may be copied with a very fine shutter
aperture, then the second binding, with a larger shutter, aperture and so on, and
in this case the intensity of the exposure of the several bindings depends on the
size of the shutter aperture of the objective.
The same purpose may also be effected by copying all the bindings selected for
shading, separately with the same shutter in the objective, but with different
periods of exposure. In this case the intensity of the effect (produced by exposure)

page_text: of the several bindings depends on the length of the period of exposure of the
several bindings.
In both cases, the effect is based on the same principle as in the hereinbefore
described case,
in which the shading hole-plate is employed, viz-upon the prin-
ciple of different strength of exposure of the several bindings.
When the diagram is to be made for a two-weft fabric in which each weft is
represented by single lines, the herein before described hole-plate and the same
binding plates or covering plates are employed, but shutters are employed in which
a corresponding portion of their (square) aperture is covered over, so as to expose
only one determined portion of each square on the diagram at a time and in this
portion to copy the desired binding.
Figs. 18 and 19 illustrate shutters of this kind, the aperture of which is covered
over in its upper or lower half so that, therefore, when using these shutters, each
square on the diagram is divided into two halves, and any desired binding can be
copied once in the lower portion and again in the upper portion. In a similar
manner, the shutters shown in Figs. 20 to 22 serve for three-weft diagrams, those
shown in Figs. 23 and 24 serve for double fabrics with double warp and single
weft, whilst those shown in Figs. 25 to 28 serve for double fabrics with double weft.
Dated this 28th day of July 1898
F. WISE HOWORTH,
46, Lincoln's Inn Fields, London, W.C., Agent for the Applicants.
Improved Method and Apparatus for the Production of Weaving
Diagrams.
We, JAN SZCZEPANIK, Engineer, and LUDWIG KLEINBERG, Manufacturer, both of
Ungargasse 12, of Vienna III, Austria, do hereby declare the nature of this in-
vention and in what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
In making diagrams for weaving purposes, the usual course has hitherto been
as follows:-
First a sketch of the pattern or design is transferred with lead pencil on suitable
diagram paper of suitable dimensions (see Fig. 1 of the drawings accompanying our
Provisional Specification). This sketch is then executed in colour, in such a man-
ner that the outlines are filled out by full squares as shown in Fig. 2, care being
taken to fill up all those squares which are covered at least one half by the figure,
finally separate portions of the figure and also of the ground are provided with
suitable bindings (Fig. 3).
According to the method described in the Specification of our Patent No. 29230
of 1896 all these operations can be effected by means of photography by producing
any design, through an optical screen, on an enlarged scale directly upon sensitized
paper.
In this case, the screen employed consists of a photographic negative produced
upon a glass plate, and provided with a strong net-work of lines similar to diagram
paper and the photographic apparatus which serves to produce the diagram is
provided with a dull plate with a fine net-work of lines, the squares of which
represent the proportion of the weft threads to the warp threads, such as 1:1.
When the pattern has been produced upon the desired extent of squares in the
breadth of the dull plate, a picture of the desired sharpness is produced which, if
other proportions exist between the weft threads and the warp threads (more weft

page_text: threads than warp threads upon a square or vice versa) can be shortened or length-
ened in the desired direction by optical means without altering the squares, viz. :-
by means of the well-known cylinder lens objectives. When the said picture of
desired sharpness has been produced, then in place of the dull plate the screen
is employed and behind the latter there is placed sensitized paper.
After a short exposure a picture divided into squares which represents the
coloured diagram is produced upon the photographic paper.
For the purpose of rendering the bindings also visible upon the same, binding
screens or shading screens are employed which have fields of different degrees of:
translucency corresponding to the kinds of binding. If now the positive or nega-
tive of the drawing be copied by photographic means, and at the same time the
light is deadened or softened in parts to different extents by means of the binding.
screen which is arranged in front of or behind the positive or negative, there is pro-
duced, by the co-operation of the deadening layer and of the toning or shading.
of the positive or negative, a copy which can be used as a diagram, and upon
which, according to the toning, differently grouped fields can be seen, which agree
with the bindings selected for the different tonings.
The several bindings are in this case represented by different signs which are
rendered visible in the squares by means of photography, and which represent
different colours in which the pattern is painted, as is well known, for the purpose
of better distinguishing the several squares, and which, as they have a different
photographic effect, cause the diagram to appear in various tones (white, gray or:
black).
The method forming the subject of the present invention, and the apparatus
serving to carry out the said method, have for object to perfect this mode of mak-
ing the diagrams by photography and the screens employed therefor.
According thereto, on the one hand, the squares indicating the colours and the
modes of binding are shown (especially in the outline) much sharper and more
accurately conforming to the pattern whilst the faults or inaccuracies of reproduc-
tion which occurred in the former process are entirely avoided; and on the other
hand, a smaller number of appliances are required to replace the screens and these
can be made not only much cheaper and lighter, but the drawback which is pro-
duced by the grain of the gelatine (upon which the screens have hitherto been
made) and which grain interferes with the degree of transparency, is also obviated.
The present method is based on the well-known optical fact that every point of
a projected image is produced by the crossing of the rays forming a cone, and that
if a plate with a fine aperture be arranged in the place of the projection of the
image, the rays which pass on through the said aperture will again form a cone,
whose sectional figure, on a sensitized surface arranged behind the hole-plate will
be similar in form to the opening in the shutter or diaphragm of the objective.
If the opening in the shutter has the form of a square, triangle, or circle, the
projected image will have a similar form. A plate, therefore, which is provided
with a great number of small apertures which constitute as many hole cameras,
will, when the number of the apertures is as great as that of the squares, reproduce
the projection of the opening of the shutter in each of these squares upon the dull
plate that is provided with the net-work of lines, provided that all the apertures
in the hole-plate coincide with the centre of each square of the dull plate. The
whole of the projected image will therefore appear upon the paper in the same
forms as those of the outline shape of the aperture in the shutter.
In the practical application of these optical facts in accordance with the present
invention, the pattern is first projected upon the desired number of squares in the
length and breadth of the dull plate, then the latter is removed from the frame of
the taking-table, and is replaced by a perforated plate of the kind above described
whilst, in a second frame behind the same there is fixed sensitized paper, upon
which, when the frames are properly and sharply adjusted, with reference to each
other, to the objective, and to the copy or pattern fixed upon a frame, the whole
projected image will appear covered with figures such as will coincide with the

page_text: shape of the aperture in the shutter and which will be' square, when the said
aperture is of a square shape..
17.
The photographic effect is therefore exactly the same as that which was produced
by filling up the squares by hand as hitherto practised.
Fig. 4 illustrates the dull plate ruled in the same manner as diagram paper, and
Fig. 5 illustrates a hole-plate used when a shutter with square aperture is em-
ployed: When the squares projected through the hole-plate are somewhat smaller
than the squares on the dull plate, white intermediate lines are produced which
form squares in the figure, as shown by the projection illustrated in Fig 6.
In order now to show the squares also in the ground of the pattern, which ground
is to be reproduced photographically, a shutter of diaphragm is employed, the
square aperture of which is filled up by an opaque square to such an extent that
only slits in the. form of an outlined square are left for the passage of the rays of
light as shown in Fig. 7 which illustrates a shutter of this kind: When the
projected squares are of the same size as those of the dull plate, the lines.coincide,
and ordinary squares are produced as shown in Fig. 8... But if the squares are
smaller, then square fields are produced which are separated from one another by
a square net of intermediate spaces. as shown in Fig. 9.
The colours employed for better distinguishing the several squares of the diagram
are, in this method, represented by squares with different kinds of signs; which
latter can be also produced by corresponding shutters whose apertures constitute,
for example, triangles, one or more slits, one large circle or a number of smaller
circles. In order to enable each separate colour of the pattern to be photographed,
the well-known colour filters are employed, or the pattern is split up into a number
of separate negative portions, corresponding to the shutters to be used one after
the other, which portions constitute a so-called mask-copy or pattern; and which
are placed accurately upon one another in front of the objective, and are photo-
graphed in succession, thereby obtaining the advantage of a shortening of the time
of exposure, as compared with colour filters. In this manner, it is possible to
produce any desired shading of the colour tones gray and black which can be
produced by photography, and which corresponds to a definite colour of a scale of
colours.
The bindings, which are also illustrated upon the diagrams, and which have hitherto
been indicated upon different, fields thereof by means of squares differently
arranged, and of different colours, may, according to the present invention, be
produced with the aid of plates, herein called binding plates, which are placed close
up against the hole-plate, and which cover over the corresponding apertures in the
latter in such a manner as to produce a representation of a desired binding.
Figs. 10 to 13 illustrate, by way of example, binding plates of this kind, or
properly speaking, the modes of binding produced thereby, Fig. 13 showing what
may be termed a combined binding which can be produced either by copying the
same surface with two binding plates one after the other or at the same time.
Binding plates of this kind are preferably produced by photography in the form of
negatives and they have the great advantage that a small number of such plates
can be made to produce a large number of different kinds of bindings.
For shaded patterns, the different degrees of translucency which produce repre-
sentations of the different bindings are produced with the aid of a hole-plate formed
with apertures of different sizes (Fig. 14) in which case the squares may also be
made by means of shutters. But as the apertures in the hole-plate are of different
sizes, the squares will appear differently copied. This will be a drawback which
interferes, however, but very slightly, and it can be obviated by employing in
place of the hole-plates shown in Fig. 14, the shaded hole-plate shown in Fig. 15,
which is provided, in addition to the holes also with white lines forming squares,
and which copies first the squares and then the holes. For this purpose, there is
placed upon the shaded hole-plate, first, the cover plate shown in Fig. 16 which has
for object to cover the holes so as to allow of first copying the squares.. Then this
cover plate is removed and in its place there is placed a second cover plate (Fig. 17)

page_text: which covers the squares of the shading hole-plate, but which exposes the holes in
the same for the purposes of copying, so that the squares are not further affected
by the second copying.
The shading hole-plates may also be dispensed with if the projected image with
the corresponding bindings be copied with the help of the hole-plates (Fig. 5) and
of the hereinbefore described binding plates (for example, Fig. 11) with each of the
two plates separately, and for exactly the same time, but with the use of different
shutters in the objective. Thus, for example, first one binding may be copied
with a very fine shutter aperture, then the second binding, with a larger shutter
aperture and so on, and in this case the intensity of the exposure of the several
bindings depends on the size of the shutter aperture of the objective. The same
purpose may also be effected by copying separately all the bindings selected for
shading with the same shutter in the objective, but with different periods of
exposure. In this case the intensity of the effect (produced by exposure) of the
several bindings depends on the length of the period of exposure of the several
bindings. In both cases, the effect is based on the same principle as in the here-
inbefore described case, in which the shading hole-plate is employed, viz. :-upon
the principle of different strengths of exposure of the several bindings.
When the diagram is to be made for a two-weft fabric, in which each weft is
represented by single lines, the hereinbefore described hole-plate and the same
binding plates or covering plates are employed, but shutters are used in which a
corresponding portion of their (square) aperture is covered over, so as to expose only
one determined portion of each square on the diagram at a time and in this portion
to copy the desired binding. Figs. 18 and 19 illustrate shutters of this kind, the
aperture of which is covered over in its upper or lower half so that, therefore, when
using these shutters, each square on the diagram is divided into two halves, and
any desired binding can be copied once in the lower portion and again in the
upper portion. In a similar manner, the shutters shown in Figs. 20 to 22 serve
for three-weft diagrams, those shown in Figs. 23 and 24 serve for double fabrics
with double warp and single weft, whilst those shown in Figs. 25 to 28 inclusive
serve for double fabrics with double weft.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what
we claim is;-
1. The method of producing diagrams for weaving purposes by photography,
wherein the design, after being projected upon a dull plate ruled into squares, is
projected upon sensitized paper, by means of a hole-plate which is inserted in place
of the said dull plate, and which hole plate is provided with small apertures corres-
ponding, in number and arrangement, to the squares of the dull plate, the arrange-
ment being such that the squares, particularly the outline of the design and also
the colours of the same, are produced with the aid of shutters having differently
formed apertures, the outline shape of which is projected through the holes of the
hole-plate on to the said sensitized paper, so that the image appears covered over
in its whole extent with figures corresponding to the shape of the shutter aperture,
whilst the bindings are produced by means of binding plates which cover corres-
ponding apertures in the hole-plate.
2. The adoption of the method set forth in the preceding claim for the production
of shaded patterns whereby the different degrees of transparency that serve to
indicate the different bindings of the differently toned portions are produced with
the aid of a hole-plate having apertures of different sizes, and in some cases with
squares, the arrangements being such that when this plate is provided with
squares, the squares and the shading are adapted to be copied separately by cover-
ing the holes and the outlined squares in succession by means of suitable covering
plates.
3. The adoption of the method set forth in Claim 1 for the production of shaded
patterns, whereby the projected image with corresponding bindings is copied either

page_text: by using differently sized shutters separately with the hole-plate formed with
similar apertures and with a corresponding binding plate during the same length
of time, or the bindings may be copied separately with one and the same shutter
but for different lengths of time.
31st day of Databan 1908
F. WISE HOWORTH,
46, Lincoln's Inn Fields, London, W.C., Agent for the Applicants.