Improvements in Machines for Lasting Boots, Shoes, and Slippers.
Year: 1895

page_text: Date of Application, 19th Feb., 1895
Complete Specification Left, 16th Nov., 1895-Accepted, 15th Feb., 1896
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Machines for Lasting Boots, Shoes, and Slippers.
I, ELISHA HANSHEW of Oxford House, Gayford Road, Shepherd's Bush,
London, W. Shoe Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention
to be as follows:-
This invention relates to improvements in machines for lasting boots, shoes, and
slippers and has for object to provide such machines of such construction and
arrangement of working parts that the same machine is adapted for lasting boots,
shoes and slippers from the size of a child's shoe to the largest sized mans boot.
Moreover the most delicate satin or kid shoe may be lasted therein without the
slightest damage to the upper whilst at same time the machine is adapted for lasting
say the heaviest fishing boots. What are known as turn shoes, pumps or single
soles, may be also lasted in the machine constructed in accordance with this
invention. This has hitherto been an impossibility with all other so called lasting
machines. Again all other machines have had the last bottom upwards with the
inner sole facing the operator, this leads to soiling and imperfect work. The tips
for instance of fancy shoes are always found to vary and being upside down this
is not observed until after the work is finished.
"
"
In this machine as will hereinafter appear I have the last placed upright upon a
jack or adjustable rest which permits of the operator adjusting the "upper
to the
centre of the last and if there are fancy tips the workmen can draw them to
desired length and see that they are upright before going on with the work.
All "uppers
for machines have heretofore been made larger than the last to
enable the pincers to take hold of same, and all uppers have been put down to
bottom of heel of last and this by all drawing together destroys the "draft" of the.
shoe. For this my machine the upper is of the same length as the last (similar to
hand made boots or shoes) and to permit of the toe pincer holding same I bring
the "upper" to the top of the heel of the last. The back of the last in this case
has an eccentric pincer, its under jaw acting as a shoe lift.
Now in accordance with this invention, I have as aforesaid the shoe last placed
upright upon a jack or rest, contrary to all other so called lasting machines which
have the last bottom upwards, I further make the last pin or jack adjustable to suit
any bore of last. To clasp or grip the " upper "for the purpose of drawing same
over the last have pincers of a peculiar construction. These consist of two
limbs or jaws one placed on top of the other the upper one being provided with a
pin working in a slot formed in the lower one to regulate the amount of slide or
travel of the jaws of the pincer.
The lower limb is formed with one end turned up and so shaped as to accommodate
itself to the shape of the last to admit of the boot upper being dropped over the
end, and teeth of serrations are formed upon the upper surface of the turned up
end aforesaid.
The top limb is at one end hollowed out and serrated to correspond with the
turned up end of the under limb before mentioned, and as the upper limb slides
upon the lower limb it is made to grasp or clip the boot upper between the toothed
or serrated ends of the pincers aforesaid.
These pincers are carried in a suitable framing and may be actuated as required
separately or collectively by means of suitable gearing any one being capable

page_text: of being opened separately soras to adjust and take in any imperfect fold of
leather.
The "upper" is laid upon the top of the shoe slide or lift. The top jaw of the
eccentric heel pincers before mentioned advances and clenches with the slide. The
draft pincers (one each side of toe) are now closed and then by a movement given
to the under carrier the draft and toe pincers are drawn down till the " upper is
carried below the side of the last.
66
"
"
The
The eccentric heel pincer draws the upper to the desired distance below the last
thereby giving the draft to the shoe as though done by first class hand laster.
under jaws of side pincers are advanced to the last at same time as toe and draft
pincers. The "upper" being drawn down laps over all under jaws of pincers, the
"
upper gets drawn tightly around the smaller part of the last so that the shoe
does not bulge around the ancle. The top jaws or limbs of pincers are now
advanced and clench the upper.
The "upper
now being held in the pincers a
downward movement is imparted to the whole of the pincer carrying device the
upper" is thereby drawn down in position for being placed under the last. Then
are advanced the toe, heel, and side, jambs which hold the last clear above the
insole. The pincers are now all opened at one movement to allow of the advance
of the crimpers the top jaw or limb leaves the boot upper and the surplus
"upper
hangs down sufficiently to permit of being turned over upon the
inner sole.
66
"
"
At one movement the toe crimpers, heel crimper, ball crimper and shank crimper
all advance and thrust the "upper" under the insole.
If desired to tack last to inner sole, under the pincer rest I have a plate holding
the tacks points upwards and by one movement of under carrier any number of
.tacks desired are inserted.
The crimping devices above alluded to are adjustable so as to be raised or
lowered according to spring of the last. The side crimpers conform to the arch of
the last and the toe crimpers are formed so as to take in either the most pointed toe
or the broadest square or round toe last.
After the upper has been pulled down to ball of last, the side jambs advance to
toe, heel, and side of last above the inner sole, then the crimpers advance in front
and below the carriers so as to take in slack. In case the last varies in form the
side jainb has adjustable plate which can be brought out if toe of the last is narrow,
and the reverse if the toe is a broad one. I may have another adjustable plate
for hollow part of the last so as to accommodate the jamb to any amount of hollow
in the last.
The whole apparatus is capable of adjustment horizontally and vertically so as
to accommodate any length of shoe as well as permit of vertical adjustment
according to the last.
To last turn shoes, pumps or single soles, (hitherto an impossibility by machine)
I put the outer sole upon the last the same as if it were the inner sole of a welted
shoe.
The upper I turn inside out and the process is similar to that mentioned above
with respect to welted or double soles.
When the crimpers take the "upper" under the ball of last the tack carrier
may take ordinary shoemaker steel tacks and thrust through the upper a desired
distance to hold it to outer sole when the last can be taken off and the work is
ready for hand worker to sew sole to the upper.
Suitable cog wheel or other gearing is provided to the working parts so as to
permit of the movements of the carrier being timed so as to bring up .any. part
required by the side of the last and in its proper place in such manner that each
part can work well in harmony with the other.
Dated this 19th day of February 1895.
HUGHES, ELI & HUGHES,
76, Chancery Lane, London, W.C.,. Agents for the Applicant...

page_text: See particularly detail view Figure 8, also Figures 1. 2. 3 and 4. These pincers
consist of two limbs or jaws, one e placed on top of the other f; the upper one e
being provided with a pin g working in a slot formed in the lower jaw fto regulate
the amount of slide or travel of the top jaw of the pincer. The lower limb or
jaw (see particularly Figure 8) is formed with one end f¹ turned up and so shaped
as to accommodate itself to the shape of the last to admit of the boot upper being
dropped over the end, and teeth or serrations 2 are formed upon the inner or
upper surface of the turned-up end aforesaid. The top jaw or limb e is at one
end e hollowed-out and serrated at e² to correspond with the turned-up end of the
under jaw before mentioned, and as the upper jaw slides upon the lower jaw, it
is made to grasp or clip the boot upper between the toothed or serrated ends of the
pincers aforesaid. These pincers are carried in a suitable framing, see particularly
Figure 4, and may be actuated as required separately or collectively by means of
suitable gearing, any one being capable of being opened separately, so as to adjust
and take in any imperfect fold of leather. As illustrated in the drawings, the
actuating mechanism is shewn as consisting of a series of toothed quadrants h, one
to each pincer. These are pivotted upon the shaft or spindle ¹ carried in bracket
supports 2 upon the framing, and are provided with actuating levers or handles i.
These pass upwards and rest within the loops . The loops allow sufficient play
for either of the arms to be actuated separately and are carried by a central frame
and pierce the bars k. To open or close the whole of the pincers simultaneously,
the bars are advanced or retired as required and working in the slots k¹ of the
end frames the travel of the same is regulated. When so advanced, or retired,
the bars k act against the levers i thereby turning the quadrants upon their
pivots and causing the teeth of said quadrants to engage with toothed racks e
formed upon the upper sides of the jaws e, e of the pincers and draw same backwards
or forwards as the case may be and so open or close the pincers.
The upper is laid upon the top of the shoe slide or draft pincer q. This latter
is pivotted at q to the bracket or post q2 upon the table or bed q3 and is adjusted
to suit the last in use. The jaw g of the draft pincers (see Figure 11) is raised by
the movement of the handle 98, when the upper is drawn down to the desired
distance and clenches with the slide, thereby giving the draft required. The toe
pincher r, shewn in dotted lines in Figure 3 and in detail in Figure 13, is closed
upon the vamp or tip of the shoe by means of the lever and cam 2 (cam shewn
particularly in Figure 1). Then when required the ball jamb or brakes (see
Figures 1. 2. 3. and 12) is brought down upon the ball of the upper and presses
said upper down to the last, causing the whole of the upper at its sides to go over
the under jaws of the pincers which lay against the last. The toe pincer is made
adjustable to the length of last by the carrier or bridge 3 being capable of sliding
in the slots on frames. The toe pincher r is now closed and then by a movement
given to the under carrier, the said toe pincer is drawn down till the upper is carried
below the toe of the last a.
This downward movement of the carrier is effected by turning the hand wheel t,
Figures 1. 2. 3. and 4, which operates the toothed wheel t¹ upon shaft t². The
teeth of wheel t' engage with rack t³, which carries upon the pillars the bed or
table to of the pincer frame or carrying device.
The heel slide or draft pincer q draws the upper to the desired distance below
the last, thereby giving the draft to the shoe as though done by first class hand
lasters. The upper being drawn down laps over all under jaws of the pincers;
the upper gets drawn tightly around the smaller part of the last so that the shoe
does not bulge around the ankle. The top jaws e of the pincers are now advanced
and clench the upper between same, and the turned-up serrated ends of the lower
jaws. The upper now being held in the pincers, a further downward movement is
imparted to the whole of the pincer carrying and closing device, the upper is
thereby drawn down in position for being placed under the last.
To prevent slipping of the pincers when drawn below the last, V-teeth are cut
on the under side of the lower jaws see Fig. 8 in which take correspondingly

page_text: shaped plates u (see Figures 2 & 3). These are raised in position to engage with.
the V teeth of jaws by means of cam levers u'. To prevent possible slipping of.
the upper jaws of the pincers I use jamb plates (Figures 2 and 3) which are
pressed down upon the tops of the upper jaws of the pincers by means of eccentric.
rollers (Figure 2) which are actuated by the lever v. To guide the pincers
there are guide plates 2 (see Figures 1. 2. and 3) in which suitable slots or
apertures are formed for the ends of the pincers to pass through. There may be
one of these plates at each end of the pincers.
Now are advanced the toe, heel, and side crimpers (see particularly Figures 6. 7
and 9 and Figures 1. 2 and 3), (which when they reach the last jamb the upper
tight and the pincers are then released) the surplus upper hanging down sufficiently
to permit of being turned over under the inner sole which is under the last. At
one movement the toe crimpers l, the heel crimpers m which are mounted on the
posts and side crimpers n all advance and thrust the upper under the insole
which is under the last.
To hold the inner sole to the upper and to maintain the edges of the upper in
position under the insole when the last is removed from the machine, I make use of
a rubber or other adhesive cement, composition, or paste. The advantages of the
use of the adhesive composition are that the boot is more flexible, it is lighter and
economy is effected.
The side crimpers n conform to the arch of the last and the toe crimpers 1 are
formed so as to take in either the most pointed toe or the broadest square or round
toe last. To allow of this, attachable and detachable plates are used which may
be changed from larger or smaller plates according as whether narrow toes or
broad toes are being lasted. The heei crimpers m and side crimpers n are
similarly fitted with adjustable crimping plates, and to enable the same side
crimpers to be used for either a right or left boot or shoe, I have a shank plate
which I attach to the crimper upon the side desired. This may be taken off as
wanted and placed upon either side as may be required.
The toe, heel and side crimpers are all actuated simultaneously from the lever a
(Figures 1. 2. 3 and 5), which is fixed upon the vertical shaft, the upper end of
which carries the toothed wheel a². This wheel gears with toothed rack³
formed upon each of the four plates a carrying the crimper posts a³. As the
lever a is pulled over, so are the plates with the crimper posts drawn together
or separated. As the toe and heel posts are drawn in, the jaws of the crimpers
close. The tail ends of the jaws beyond the pivots 12 and m2, Figures 6 and 7, are
suitably slotted as at 13 and m³ and in the slots are guide rollers and m³ carried on
the end frame of the machine. This effects the opening and closing of the jaws in
accordance with the movements of the posts by lever .
To adjust the toe crimpers to take different lengths of lasts, they are adjusted
laterally to desired positions by means of the screwed spindle y, (see Figures 1
and 14).
By turning the hand wheel y¹ (Figures 1. 2. and 14) the toe crimper post is
moved either to the right or left as required for short or long lasts.
Figures 17 and 18 are respectively plan and elevational views of one of the last
posts and the toe bridge, the toe bridge is for taking the strain off the toe crimpers,
and may be adjusted in accordance with the length of the last in use, (see slots,
Figure 17).
To last turn shoes, pumps, or single soles, (hitherto an impossibility by machine),
I put the outer sole upon the last the same as if it were the inner sole of a welted
shoe. The upper 1 turn iuside out and the process is similar to that mentioned.
above with respect to welted or double sole shoes.
When the crimpers take the upper under the last, the upper may be tacked to the
inner sole by the device illustrated particularly in Figure 10 of the drawings. In
this figure see also Figure 5.
To tack the upper to the inner sole, I have a bed p upon which I mount the
tack driver p¹. p² is a tack holding plate, preferably made in sections, placed on

page_text: the top of the driving plate p³ under the shoe. The tacks are placed points upwards
and by one upward movement of the bed p, any number of tacks desired are
inserted.
The upward movement to the bed p is given by turning the wheel won shaft w¹
which turns the gear wheel w² and raises the rack w³ consequently driving upwards
the framing w carrying the bed p.
The tack carrier may take ordinary shoemakers' steel tacks and thrust through
the upper a desired distance to hold it to the outer sole when the last can be taken
off and the work is ready.
Having thus particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim, is
1. The improvements in machines for lasting boots, shoes and slippers
substantially as hereinbefore described and illustrated in the drawings.
2. In machines for lasting boots, shoes and slippers, the last arranged in an
upright position (sole downwards) in combination with pincers for drawing the
upper down over the last and drafting the boot, shoe, or slipper, and crimpers for
thrusting the upper over the insole, all constructed and operating substantially as
and for the purposes hereinbefore set forth.
3. In machines for lasting boots, shoes and slippers, the pincers for drawing the
upper down over the last and drafting the shoe, constructed, arranged and operating
substantially as herein before described and shewn.
4. In machines for lasting boots, shoes and slippers, the toe and heel
crimpers constructed, arranged and operating substantially as herein before
described.
5. In machines for lasting boots, shoes and slippers, the device for simultaneously
driving in any desired number of tacks for tacking the upper to the inner sole,
substantially as shewn in, and described with reference to, Figures 5 and 10.
6. In machines for lasting boots, shoes and slippers, the heel slide or draft pincer,
constructed, arranged and operating substantially as herein before described and
shewn particularly in Figure 11 of the accompanying drawings.
7. In machines for lasting boots, shoes and slippers, the waist or shank plate
attachable and detachable to either of the side crimpers to adapt said crimpers for
use upon either right or left boots or shoes, substantially as hereinbefore set forth
and shewn.
8. In machines for lasting boots, shoes and slippers, the ball jamb or brake in
combination with the pincers and crimpers hereinbefore described, substantially as
set forth and shewn.
9. In machines for lasting boots, shoes and slippers, the device hereinbefore
described for adjusting the toe crimper to different lengths of lasts, substantially as
shewn in Figures 1. 2. and 14.
10. In machines for lasting boots, shoes and slippers, the adjustable toe pincer,
substantially as shewn and described.
11. In machines for lasting boots, shoes and slippers, the adjustable last pin b
substantially as described to suit the bore of any last.
12. In machines for lasting boots, shoes and slippers, the table q³, as and for the
purposes hereinbefore described.
13. In machines for lasting boots, shoes and slippers, the pincers carrying
frame and its raising and lowering mechanism, substantially as shewn and
-described.
14. In machines for lasting boots, shoes and slippers, the guide plates u²,
substantially as and for the purpose herein before described.
15. In machines for lasting boots, shoes and slippers, the opening and closing of
the pincers by toothed quadrants h, levers i, and bars k, arranged and operating
substantially as herein before described and shewn.
16. In machines for lasting boots, shoes and slippers, the mechanism for

page_text: simultaneously actuating the toe heel and side crimpers, substantially as shewn.
and described.
Dated this 16th day of November 1895.
HUGHES, ELI & HUGHES,
76, Chancery Lane, London, W.C., Agents for the Applicant..