Improvements in the Manufacture or Production of Cloths in Variegated Colours.
Year: 1894

page_text: Date of Application, 2nd July, 1894
Complete Specification Left, 18th Jan., 1895-Accepted, 23rd Feb., 1895
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture or Production of Cloths in
Variegated Colours.
We, MORITZ KALISCH, of the Firm of Heynssen, Martienssen & Co., of Lever
Street, Manchester, in the County of Lancaster, Merchant, WILLIAM ANSELL
ROSENBERG, with the same firm, Buyer, and JAMES ENTWISLE, also with the
same firm, Buyer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as
follows:-
The object of this invention is to pro.luce coloured goods or coloured effects
upon goods in imitation of hand treated native cloths which it has not been hitherto
possible to produce by either of the single processes of weaving with coloured
yarns or dyeing.
It consists essentially in weaving the cloth in the first instance with a woven
coloured pattern upon it such as squares, stripes or the like and then subjecting
the same to the process commonly known as indigo-blue-resist-work the indigo blue
obliterating and completely changing the original woven pattern while the colours
of the original pattern or as changed in the process show up into the pattern formel
by the resist and the indigo.
In carrying out the invention we weave the cloth with different colours of warp
and weft yarn or two or more colours of warp and weft yarns forming any desired
pattern therewith.
We consider at present that the most suitable pattern for our purpose will be
large sized squares, stripes checks and the like for example a check of say red and
green with an alternating square shot with the two colours, this gives a parti-
coloured cloth of three or four colours.
The cloth so produced is then treated with the indigo-blue-resist-process whereby
a pattern in indigo blue is dyed over the cloth of woven parti-colours thereby
practically obliterating the outline of the original woven pattern while at the
same time the different colours of the original cloth show up into and colour or
variegate the pattern uncovered by the indigo. The colours of the original cloth
may also be altered or modified by the action of the indigo resist.
By this means a cloth with an indigo blue ground can be produced with the
pattern thereon shown up in two three or more different colours. It being under-
stood that white is considered a colour and may constitute one of the colours in the
yarns or cloth referred to.
We are aware that attempts have hitherto been made to produce the same
effects by two or more separate printings such as by first printing parti-colours on
the cloth and then printing over with indigo resist and such does not constitute any
part of our invention.
Dated this 28th day of Lune 190.1
WM. P. THOMPSON & Co.,
6, Bank Street, Manchester, Patent Agents.

page_text: Improvements in the Manufacture or Production of Cloths in
Variegated Colours.
We, MORITZ KALISCH, of the Firm of leynssen, Martienssen & Co., of Lever
Street, Manchester, in the County of Lancaster, Merchant, WILLIAM ANSELI
ROSENBERG, with the same firm, Buyer, and JAMES ENTWISLE, also with the
same firm, Buyer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement :-
The object of this invention is to produce coloured goods or coloured effects upon
goods in imitation of hand treated native cloths which it has not been hitherto
possible to produce by either of the single processes of weaving with coloured
yarns or dyeing.
It consists essentially in weaving the cloth in the first instance with a woven
coloured pattern upon it such as squares, stripes or the like and then subjecting the
same to the process commonly known as indigo-blue-resist-work, the indigo blue
obliterating and completely changing the original woven pattern, while the colours
of the original pattern or as changed the process show up into the pattern formed
by the resist and the indigo.
The invention will be fully described with reference to the accompanying
drawings which show in diagramatic form one example of design produced by our
process.
Fig. 1, indicates a coloured pattern woven on the cloth.
Fig. 2, indicates a pattern printed on the woven cloth in indigo resist.
Fig. 3, indicates the pattern produced on the cloth after being dyed with indigo
blue.
In carrying out the invention we weave the cloth with different coloured warp
and weft yarn or with two or more colours of either the warp or weft yarn forming
any desired pattern therewith.
The most suitable patterns for our purpose will be large sized squares, stripes,
checks and the like.
The pattern indicated in Fig. 1 is woven with three colours of both warp and
weft say white, red, and green and six different colours or shades are thrown up
into the pattern which are indicated by the shading thereon.
Another suitable pattern is a check of red and green with an alternating square
shot with the two colours or any other design giving a parti-coloured cloth of three
or four colours.
and
or
"tie up
"
The cloth so produced is then treated with the indigo-blue-resist
process whereby a pattern in indigo blue is dyed over the cloth of woven parti-
colours thereby practically obliterating the outline of the original woven pattern
while at the same time the different colours of the original cloth show up into and
The colours of the
colour or variegate the pattern untouched by the indigo.
original cloth will also be altered or modified by the action of the indigo
resist.
The pattern indicated in Fig. 2 is printed on the parti-coloured woven cloth
with a solution or paste which will resist indigo dye and which may either be such
as will not affect the colours of the cloth or may modify or change such original
colours while still resisting the indigo. This pattern represents stitching and
stitched up parts of the cloth as practised by natives to prevent the penetration of
the dye.
By this means a cloth with an indigo blue ground can be produced with the
pattern thereon shown up in two, three or more different colours or shades of colour

page_text: "
according to the original pattern woven into the cloth and the modification produced
by the "tie up or by the resist solution printed thereon. And the blue ground
will also present different shades according to whether the indigo is dyed upon the
red, green, white etcetera of the original cloth.
The pattern indicated in Fig. 3 is the result of the two preceding patterns
upon the finished cloth the dotted lines showing where the pattern and colours
woven into the cloth show a different colour or shade on the finished cloth.
It is to be understood that white and black are considered as colours and
constitute one of the colours in the yarns or woven cloth referred to.
After the indigo treatment the goods are soaped to revive or brighten up the
colours.
We are aware that attempts have hitherto been made to produce the same effects
by two or more separate printings such as by first printing parti-colours on the
cloth and then printing over with indigo resist and such does not constitute any
part of our invention.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what
we claim is :-
1. The process of manufacturing or producing cloths in variegated colours which
consists in (a) weaving the cloth with a pattern in two or more colours, (b) printing
such cloth with an indigo resist solution, and (c) dyeing with indigo blue substantially
as described.
2. The improved method of producing variegated cloths substantially as
described.
Dated this 17th day of January 1895.