AN IMPROVED MODE OF PRODUCING EMBROIDERY
Year: 1883

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Charles Francis Bally of Schoenenwerd in the Republic
of Switzerland for an Invention of "AN IMPROVED MODE OF PRODUCING
EMBROIDERY"
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Charles Francis Bally at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 20th July 1883.
CHARLES FRANCIS BALLY of Schoenenwerd in the Republic of Switzerland
"AN IMPROVED MODE OF PRODUCING EMBROIDERY
"
:
The object of this invention is to produce upon silks and other fabrics
embroidery by an embroidering machine with a velvet or cut pile, a result which
has never yet been attained by the use of such machinery.
To this end I take two pieces of the fabric to be embroidered, and lay them
face to face, inserting between them two, four, or more layers of fabric which will
serve as a filling between the two fabrics to be embroidered. Having secured
these layers of fabric temporarily together, I submit the same to the well
known embroidering machine, which passes the silk or other embroidery thread
through and through the combined fabrics, and creates a pattern therein with
two exposed backs, which lie at the back of the embroidered fabrics. When
the pattern is complete, which may be produced in a variety of colours,-I secure.
the threads of the pattern by applying india rubber or other cement to the back
of the embroidered fabrics, and when this cement is set, I split the compound
fabric by passing a knife through it, after the manner employed in the manufacture
of double woven velvets.
When the fabric is thus severed, I remove the filling pieces from the face of the
embroidered fabrics, and the pattern will then stand out on each embroidered
piece as a cut pile.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said Charles Francis Bally in the Patent Office on the 18th January
1884.
CHARLES FRANCIS BALLY of Schoenenwerd in the Republic of Switzerland
"AN IMPROVED MODE OF PRODUCING EMBROIDERY"
The object of this Invention is to produce upon Leather, silks and other fabrics.
embroidery by a sewing or embroidering machine, with a velvet or cut pile, a
result which has never yet been attained by the use of such machinery.
To this end I take two pieces of the fabric to be embroidered, and place them
face to face, inserting between them a filling composed preferably of loose textile
fabrics. Having secured these layers of fabric temporarily together I submit the
same to any well known or approved embroidery or sewing machine which is
capable of passing the silk or other embroidery thread through and through the
combined fabrics. By submitting the combined fabric to the action of such a
machine, and traversing the work by the action of the attendant under the needle,
a pattern is formed therein with two exposed backs, which lie at the back of the
embroidered fabrics.
When the pattern (which may be produced in a variety of colours) is complete,
I may if desired secure the threads of the pattern by applying india rubber or
other cement to the backs of the embroidered fabrics The compound embroidered
fabric I divide or lay open by passing a knife through it, after the manner of
cutting open double woven velvets.
In the accompanying drawing I have shewn in diagram sections, the work
produced in the compound fabric composed of layers of fabrics to be embroidered
and the intervening filling pieces.-The thickness of the filling pieces used is
determined by the length of pile required to be produced.
In Fig 1 the filling is shown as composed of two layers of fabric, between which
the knife is to be inserted for severing the pile into equal lengths.
Fig: 2 shews the filling composed of four layers, the result of their use being the
production of a pile double the length of Fig: 1.
In Fig: 3 I have shewn one layer of fabric as forming the filling. This is used
when the two embroidered fabrics are intended to receive unequal lengths of pile
or when a single embroidered fabric is intended to be produced in place of two.
.1
The carrying out of this Invention may be conveniently effected by the use of
any efficient sewing machine but preferably one which is provided with an.
universal feed to adapt it to embroidery purposes, as for example that put in the
market by the Singer Manufacturing Company; or Swiss Embroidery Machines
now in common use may be applied to the purpose.
When embroidery is produced by a machine not provided with an universal
feed the skill and attention of the attendant inust be relied on to shift the fabric.
and place it in a position for the forward feed to present it to. the action of the
descending needle.
Before cutting the pile the cement may be applied to the back of the embroidery,
in order to secure the threads, and when the cement is set, the severance. of the
pile may be effected. In the case however of Goods which are to be lined say for
example the uppers for shoes and slippers no cement will be required.
When the pile is cut I remove the filling pieces from the face of the embroidered
.fabrics, and the pattern will then stand out on each embroidered piece as a cut
pile.
It will be understood that when an elaborate or a continuous pattern is required
to be embroidered the back of the uppermost fabric may be stamped with the

page_text: pattern intended to be reproduced, but in general the skill of the operator may
be relied on for traversing, without the aid of an outline, the fabric under the
embroidering needle.
.
I have said that the diagram Figure 3 illustrates the mode of producing the
single embroidered fabric. When this is required one or other of the outer fabrics
will consist of varnished canvass or some equivalent substance which is to be used
merely to retain the stitches as the work proceeds and is to be removed and laid
aside for re-use when severed from the work by the passage of the dividing knife
between it and the filling.
Having now set forth the nature of my Invention of "An improved mode of
producing embroidery" and explained the manner of carrying the same into effect
I wish it to be understood that under the above in part recited Letters Patent I
claim:
Producing in duplicate or single pieces embroidery with a velvet or cut pile face
in the manner above described.
In witness whereof I the said Charles Francis Bally have hereunto set my
hand and seal the fourteenth day of January in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and eighty four.
OF. BALLY (L.S.)