IMPROVEMENTS IN APPARATUS AND PARTS OF SEWING MACHINES
Year: 1863

page_text: of "IMPROVEMENTS IN APPARATUS AND PARTS OF SEWING MACHINES."--A
communication from abroad by Jean Louis Thenen, of La Chapelle
St. Denis (Seine), in the Empire of France.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Edward Thomas Hughes
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
14th November 1863.
I, EDWARD THOMAS HUGHES, of the Firms of Hughes and Son, Patent
Agents, 123, Chancery Lane, London, do hereby declare the nature of the
said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN APPARATUS AND PARTS OF SEWING MA-
a communication to me from abroad by Jean Louis Thenen, of
La Chapelle St. Denis (Seine), in the Empire of France. to be as follows:-
This Invention relates to certain contrivances, arrangements, and combina-
tions, and the application thereof, comprised in certain apparatus and parts of
sewing machines, the nature of which consists, --
Firstly, of improved construction, arrangement, and combination of the
parts of the shuttle, both in "race shuttle" and in "rotary shuttle" form.

page_text: Secondly, of an improved method of driving the shuttle.
Thirdly, of an improved construction and application of the shuttle driver
suitable to this system of operating.
Fourthly, of an improved contrivance and apparatus, which I call a
"needle guard."
Fifthly, of an improved contrivance and apparatus for adjusting the needle
bar relatively to the needle's descent in line with the face of the shuttle race.
Sixthly, of an improved contrivance for lifting and turning the "presser."
Seventhly, of an improved construction, arrangement, and combination of
parts for effecting the requisite movements of the several immediate sewing
instruments, whether separately or in combination.
The foregoing improvements may be all combined in one improved and
useful machine, which would thus comprise them in one complete Invention,
or they may be separately applied to that portion of the sewing process to
which each particularly pertains, or may in whole or in part be applied to
sewing machines already known, so that the different parts of my Invention
may be separately made useful.
The first improvement comprises or relates to the different divisions of
shuttles used. and known as race shuttles, and as "rotary" or "revolving
shuttles," to which latter I add the use of a circular or a spiral shuttle holder;
the object being throughout to better mount and dismount, or to replace the
reel or bobbin in the shuttle, to control the delivery and tension of its thread,
to prevent its breaking or dislocation, to take up and give off the loop thread,
and to secure greater durability and economy of power. This I carry into effect
by means of using in the "construction" of my improved shuttle hinged or folding
pieces of steel or suitable material, so that when folded or shut in place the
reel will be thereby securely held in proper position, and by simply unfolding
or opening the same, or springing the same open if not hinged, the reel can
be detached. 1 further construct the shuttle with what I call a distributing
rod or bar, to facilitate the equal unreeling of the thread, in combination with
a guide eye to conduct the thread to the tension, which last is effected by a
clip or by tension holes, or by slots, or by a "twister," suitably placed. I
construct the reels with "centres" instead of with "points." When folded
or shut the shuttle presents a sort of deck or surface that protects the interior
parts against any accidental curvature or deflection of the needle. This
"combination" gives a convenient reel perfect control of the delivery and
tension, and a safe shuttle; and this "arrangement" prevents the reel falling
out of the shuttle, and allows an easy and rapid adjustment. The shuttle
frame may be stamped out of the metal in such form as to have more strength

page_text: than as heretofore.
The foregoing are also applicable to "race shuttles" of
the usual form hitherto used, and that are without my additional improvement
next mentioned. Lastly, my improved shuttle (whether in the "race shuttle"
or in the "revolving shuttle" form, and whether with or without the foregoing
improvements) is constructed with what I call a curved or spiral "tail." by
which exclusively it is driven, and is vibrated to and fro if the shuttle be
vibratory, or is propelled if the shuttle be circular, or rotary, or continuous in
one direction in its motion. And the particular form or application of such
"tail" may be varied and retain the principle of my Invention according to
the necessary adaptation thereof to the form of shuttle that may be intended
to be used. With revolving shuttles I also use in combination therewith a
circular or spiral shuttle case or holder of peculiar construction, and applied in
a peculiar manner, combining the offices of both shuttle holder and driver,
and of taking up and giving off the loop or needle thread, and which, with
the shuttle, goes together as one whole to form one complete apparatus.
The second and third improvements go together, the object being to keep
the body proper of the shuttle clear from contact with the shuttle driver,
whereby the needle thread loop is enabled to freely pass without interruption
by the driver entirely over the body proper of the shuttle, and then be freely
disengaged therefrom to be drawn up into the seam being sewn. This I
carry into effect, as to the second improvement, by means of applying the
driver only to the "tail" of the shuttle, and thereby driving the shuttle
exclusively by its "tail," without bringing the driver in contact with any part
of the body proper of the shuttle as heretofore. And as to the third improve-
ment, I carry it into effect by so constructing and applying the driver that it
shall apply like a finger and thumb to the tail of the shuttle to vibrate it
alternately backward and forward; if vibratory, with sufficient play to pass
the thread over the tail, or if the shuttle is continuous in its motion, so that
the driver shall apply like a thumb to the end of the spiral or tail, to push it
forward in the direction of its motion; and the same may be further aided to
facilitate the free delivery or passage of the loop thread by the addition of a
friction wheel at the point of contact.
The fourth improvement is intended to guard the needle when it has
descended against being struck by the shuttle when the latter is advancing,
which frequently causes the breaking or deranging of the needle or of the
shuttle, or both. I carry this into effect by means of causing the needle to
partially enter within the aperture of a transperforated cylindrical or other
suitably shaped instrument, which then by a partial rotation or oscillation
grips upon the needle and securely holds it in its desired position until the

page_text: shuttle point has passed the needle; then the return motion of the instrument
releases the needle and leaves it free to complete its motion.
The object of the fifth improvement is so to vary the position of the needle
relatively to the side or wall of the shuttle race that the needle when it has
descended shall always present a surface even and flush therewith. This I
carry into effect by means of the application of one or more set screws to
the needle bar slide box, so that by the action of the said screw or screws
both the forward and return motion are effected in causing the needle bar
slide box most exacily to slide or to move bodily forward or backward solely
by the turning of the screw or screws before mentioned, dispensing with the
use of springs as heretofore used for effecting the return motion.
The object of the sixth improvement is to lift the presser foot from the
surface of the sewing, and at the same time turn it away from the needle or
out of the way of the needle and of the needle bar. This I carry into effect
by means of a spiral or semi-spiral slot in the presser bar slide box, and a
tongue or stud upon the presser bar to run within the same, so that the
presser bar by being raised will at the same time be turned about by the
operation of this contrivance to the extent required for this purpose.
The object of the seventh improvement is to effect the requisite movements
of the immediate sewing instruments, that is to say, the movements of the
needle of the shuttle or its equivalent, of the feed surface whether separately,
of either of them, or of any or of all of them, in combination with less
friction, noise, and wear, and consequent loss of power, than by the system of
"cams" heretofore used. This I carry into effect by means of employing in
my improved system "crank motions" working on noiseless or nearly noiseless
centres, and by my new and improved combination thereof obtaining the
various requisite movements of the said immediate sewing instruments hereto-
fore obtained by the complicated apparatus of "cams," with their attendant
boles, barrels, dises, shafts, and bearings, which I dispense with, using neither
"camis" or "cam shafts," than which my improved system is more simple,
easy, and durable, and more economical of power.

page_text: WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Fourteenth day of November, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-three, in the twenty-seventh year of Her
reign, did, for Herself. Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the
Edward Thomas Hughes. Her special licence that I. the said Edward Thomas
Hughes, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I. the said
Edward Thomas Hughes, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at
any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times
thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make.
use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and
Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man. an Invention for "IM.
PROVEMENTS IN APPARATUS AND PARTS OF SEWING MACHINES;" a communication
io me from abroad by Jean Louis Thenen, of La Chapelle St. Denis (Seine).
in the Empire of France, upon the condition (amongst others) that I. the
said Edward Thomas Hughes, my executors or administrators, by an instru-
ment in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should
particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in
what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed
in the Great Seal Patent Oflice within six calendar months next and imme-
diately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that 1, the said Edward Thomas Hughes, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is
to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement (that is to say):---
This Invention relates to certain contrivances, arrangements, and combina-
tions, and the application thereof comprised in certain apparatus and parts of
sewing machines, the nature of which consists, -.
Firstly, of improved construction, arrangements, and combination of the
parts of the shuttle, whether in race shuttle or in rotary shuttle form.
Second, of an improved method of driving the shuttle.
Thirdly, of improved construction and application of the shuttle driver
suitable to this system of operating.
Fourthly, of an improved contrivance and apparatus, which I call a
needle ground.
Fifthly, of an improved contrivance and apparatus for adjusting the needle
bar relatively to the needle's descent in line with the roall of the shuttle race.
Sixthly, of an improved contrivance for lighting and turning the presser.
Seventhly, of an improved construction, arrangement, and combination of

page_text: parts for effecting the several immediate sewing instruments, whether sepa-
rately or in combination.
The foregoing improvements may be combined in one improved and useful
machine, or may be separately applied to that portion of the saving process
to which each particular
pertains, or may in whole or in part be
applied to sewing machines already known, so that the different parts of my
Invention may be separately made useful.
The first improvement comprises or relates to the different divisions of
shuttles used and known as race shuttles, and as rotary" or revolving
shutters, to which latter I add the use of a circular or spiral shuttle holder.
The object being throughout to better mount and dismount or to replace the
reel or bobbin in the shuttle to control the delivery and tension of its thread,
to prevent its breaking or dislocation, to take up and give the lap thread,
and to secure greater durability and economy of power. This I effect by
using in the construction of my improved shuttle hinged or folding pieces of
steel or suitable material so arranged that when folded or shut in place the
reel will be securely held in proper position, and by simply unfolding or
opening the same, or springing the same open if not hinged, the reel can be
detached. I further construct the shuttle with what I call a distributing rod
or bar to facilitate the equal unreeling of the thread in combination with a
guide eye to conduct the thread to the tension, which last is effected by a clip,
or by tension holes, or by slots, or by a "twister;" when folded or shut the
shuttle presents a sort of deck or surface that protects the interior parts
against any accidental curvature or deflection of the needle. This "combi-
nation" gives a convenient reel perfect control of the delivery and tension and
a safe shuttle. And this arrangement prevents the reel falling out of the
shuttle and allows an easy and rapid adjustment. The foregoing are also
applicable to race shuttles of the usual form hitherto used, and that are
without my additional improvement next. mentioned. Lastly, my improved
shuttle, whether in the race shuttle or in the revolving shuttle form, and
whether with or without the foregoing improvements, is constructed with what
I call a curved or spiral "tail," by which exclusively it is driven, and is
vibrated to and fro if the shuttle be vibratory or is propelled; if the shuttle be
circular or rotary or continuous in one direction in its motion, and the particular
form or application of such tail may be varied, and retain the principle of my
Invention according to the necessary adaptation thereof in the form of shuttle
that may be intended to be used. With revolving shutters I also use in
combination therewith a circular or spiral shuttle case or holder of peculiar

page_text: construction, and applied in a peculiar manner combining the oflices of both
shuttle holder and driver, and of taking up and giving off the loop or needle
thread, and which with the shuttle goes together as one whole to form one
complete apparatus.
The second and third improvements go together, the object being to keep
the body proper of the shuttle clear from contact with the shuttle driver,
whereby the needle thread loop is enabled to freely pass without interruption
by the driver entirely over the body proper of the shuttle, and then be freely
disengaged therefrom be drawn up into the seam being sewn. This effect.
as to the second improvement, by applying the driver only to the tail of
shuttle, and thereby driving the shuttle exclusively by its tail without
bringing the driver in contact with any part of the body proper of the shuttle
as heretofore; and as to the third improvement, by so constructing and
supplying the driver that it shall apply like a finger and thumb to the tail of
the shuttle to vibrate it alternately backward and forward, if vibratory with
sufficient play to pass the thread over the tail, or if the motion of the shuttle
is continuous, so that the driver shall apply like a thumb to the end of the
spiral or tail to push it forward in the direction of its motion, and the same
may be further aided to facilitate the free delivery or passage of the loop
thread by the addition of a friction wheel at the point of contact.
The fourth improvement is to guard the needle when it has descended
against being struck by the shuttle when the latter is advancing, which fre-
quently causes the breaking or deranging of the needle, or of the shuttle, or
both. This effect by causing the needle to partially enter within the
aperture of a transperforated cylindrical or other suitably shaped instrument,
which then by a partial rotation or oscillation grips upon the needle, and
securely holds it in its desired position until the shuttle point has passed the
needle, then the return motion of the instrument releases the needle and
leaves it free to complete its motion.
The object of the fifth improvement is so to vary the position of the needle
relatively to the side or roall of the shuttle race, that the needle when it has
descended shall always present a surface even and flush therewith. This 1
effect by means of the application of one or more set screws to the needle bar
slide box, so that by the action of the said screw or screws both the forward
and return motion are effected in causing the needle bar slide box to most
exactly slide or move bodily forward or backward solely by the turning of the
screw or screws before mentioned, dispensing with the use of springs, as
heretofore used for the return motion.
The object of the sixth improvement is to lift the presser foot from the

page_text: surface of the sewing, and at the same time turn it away from the needle or
out of the way of the needle and the needle box. This I effect by means of
a spiral or semi-spiral slot in the presser bar slide box, and a tongue or stud
upon the presser bar to run within the same, so that the presser bar being
raised will at the same time be turned about by the operation of this con-
trivance to the extent required for this purpose.
The object of the seventh improvement is to effect the requisite movements
of the immediate sewing instruments, that is to say, the movements of the
needle of the shuttle or its equivalent of the feed surface, whether separately
or either of them, or of any or of all of them in combination, with less friction,
noise, and wear, and consequent loss of power than by the system of "cams"
heretofore used. This I effect by means of employing, in my improved system,
"crank motions working on noiseless or nearly noiseless centres, and, by
my new and improved combination thereof, obtaining the requisite move-
ments of the said immediate sewing instruments heretofore obtained by the
complicated apparatus of "cams" with their attendant boles, barrels, discs,
shafts, bearings, &c., which I dispense with, using neither "cams" or "cam
shafts," than which my improved system is more easy in operation and more
economical of power, and by it "lost motion" is more completely avoided.
This Invention will be clearly understood by reference to the accompanying
three Sheets of Drawings and the figures and letters marked thereon, in which
Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and 7 represent the improved construction of race
shuttle. Figure 1 is a top view of the shuttle; Figure 2 represents the under
side shewing the shuttle folded up; Figure 3 is a side view shewing the
manner in which the shuttle is open or unfolded; Figure 4 is an end view
shewing the spiral tail; Figure 5 is the opposite view looking at the nose end;
Figure 6 is an end view, and Figure a side view of the folder which holds
the reel when in its place in the shuttle, and is seen in Figure 3 attached by
a pivot ar on which it hinges so as to open and shut, the tail end of the holder
is rigid but the nose end again hinges so as to open, as seen in Figure 3,
thereby releasing the reel, which, when the shuttle is closed or folded up, is
held in its place upon the point by the spring of the folder resulting from its
compression when shut into its place. I construct the reel with centres
instead of points, placing the points instead upon the holder which springs
upon the reel. The distributing bar c is shewed in Figure 3 in profile, and in
Figure 5 in full, as looking on the under side over this distributing bar c the
thread from the reel is drawn and next passes through the guide eye d, and
thence forward close to the under side of the folder deck, and through right
and top eyes in the folder's head, and passing under the tension clip between

page_text: "
them, which "clip and " eyes are shown in Figure 6: the screw there
shewn tightens or loosens the clip, so as to afford the tension required; this
gives a quick and sensitive tension, beyond which there are five tension holes,
shown in Figure 3, through one or more of which the thread is passed, it
being necessary that the thread always must leave the shuttle by the best hole.
which is at the shuttle's centre. In Figure 4 the spiral tail of the shutter is
shown end on, in Figure 3 in profile, and in Figure 1 top view, which spiral
or tail serves to vibrate the shuttle by the operation of the finger and thumb
of the shuttle driver upon either side of it, as herein-after mentioned. When
the folder is colored it is further secured in its place, in addition to the
spring upon it of its own compression, by a small slide or catch. shown in
Figure 3.
Figures 8, 9, 10, 11 and 12 show the improved construction of rotary
shuttle. Figure 8 is a front view, or of the face of the shuttle that is presented
to the needle; Figure 9 is a top view: Figure 10 is a side now looking
against the spiral; Figure 11 is a side view looking with the spiral; Figure 12
is a back view looking at the spiral tail of the shuttle: Figure 13 is a front
view, and Figure 14 a top view, shewing the construction of the "folder" in
this arrangement of shuttle. The plan of this shuttle is that of a sort of spiral
shell, the nose or point of the shuttle being, as it were. one end of the spiral
upon which the sewing thread loop is caught, and then passing over the circuit
of the spiral is thrown off and leaves it by the tail. Figure 12 shews different
stages of the progress of the loop in passing over the spiral. In that
numbered the loop has just passed over the nose a of the shuttle; at
Number 2 it has passed about half round the circuit of the spiral, and is fairly
around the shuttle: at No. 3 it has begun to run off the body and on to
the tail of the shuttle; at. No. 4 it has drawn further on; at No. 5 is being
drawn off, and at No. 6 is leaving the shuttle, passing between the end of the
spiral tail and the roller or contact wheel b, Figure 12, of the driver, which
wheel or roller forms no part of the shuttle to, and is only introduced in this
figure as an opportunity of better shewing its position in the shuttle driver to
which it belongs in relation to the shuttle when the shuttle is being driven.
By Figures 8, 9, and 10 it will be seen that the edges of the spiral shuttle
are shaped or cut away in order to admit the shuttle and enable it to be
properly held within the spiral shuttle holder, which will be hereafter re-
referred to. By these Figures it will also be seen that this shuttle is intended
to contain an entire spool of thread, in the ordinary construction, the space
occupied by which is shewn in elevation at d. Figure 8, and in the dotted
circle a, Figure 9, and in side view d, Figure 10, showing the proportion of

page_text: the shuttle occupied by such spool in each of these positions. The shuttle
opens by a folder or hinged door in the face of the shuttle. shewn at e.
Figures 8 and 14, which folder, when opened out, as shewn at e 14, unfolds
at the top, as shewn at f, Figure 14. so as to release the spool, the lower
part g, Figure 14, being rigid; indeed, following the same plan as shewn at
Figure 3 of race shuttles, the door c, when closed. is secured by a slide shewn
at h, Figure 8. The shuttle thread is delivered at the projecting thread i,
Figures 8, 9, 10, and 11, whence it passes to the sewing.
Figures 15, 16, 17, 18 and 19 represent different positions of the spiral
shuttle holder and driver which propels the last-described shuttle, and in
which the same is contained. Figure 15 is a top view; Figure 16 a side
view looking with the spiral; Figure 17 is a side view looking against the
spiral; Figure 18, a front view looking into the interior of the driver;
Figure 19, a back view, the position in the driver of the contact wheel before
mentioned in describing Figure 12 is here shewn in Figures 15, 16, and 18.
This spiral shuttle holder, when the shuttle is placed within it, is turned
round, or, as it were. screwed upon the shuttle, to arrive at its proper position
for driving, and the relative positions of the two when so put together are
shown in position in Figure 22. The back part of the shuttle holder has a
slot. Figures 16, 17, and 19, to receive the propeller k. Figures 20 and 22,
upon the and of the rotating shaft C, Figures 20, 21, and 22. The propellor k
is so shaped that the shutter holder is dropped upon it and into its place in a
sort of chamber, as shewn in Figures 20, 21, and 22. It will be seen that
the slot j. Figure 19, is of different dimensions upon either side, in order that
the shuttle driver can be dropped only in one direction into its place, and
when it is in its place it is there secured by the sliding frames in Figures 18,
20 and 21, which sliding frames, when drawn back by reason of the conical
shape of the driver, allow it to drop in its place, or be removed with the
utmost faculty; and when returned to their place, by reason of their shape
rising above the centre of the circumference, hold it securely whilst permitting
the most rapid rotation, and they are then fastened in their place by the
sliding price n. Figures 20 and 21, which slides into and holds them after the
manner of a bolt. The propellor is made so as to slide after the manner of
a piston into the rotating shaft C. upon being released by the withdrawal of the
shifting bolt p. Figures 20 and 22, by which it is keyed into its place so as to
allow still further space to withdraw or handle the shuttle holder whenever it
should become necessary, by reason of using a four-motion feed, which would
occupy a small portion of the chamber space, which is left free by the wheel
feed shewn as Figure 22, so that this may be adapted to either mode of feed.

page_text: Figure 20 is a top view shewing the chamber with the shuttle holder in posi-
tion, and Figure 21 is a side view shewing the shuttle holder chamber.
Figure 22 is a side elevation of one style of sewing machine, to which the
foregoing is adapted, in which the middle arm is vibrated by a continuous
alternate motion effected by the rotation of a true reliptic slide running upon
a true spherical surface, instead of cylindrical as heretofore used, than which it
more erroneous the power and
absolutely no lost motion; q is a circular
frame within which the spherical surface rotates attached to each side of the
circumference thereof by a slide s running in the ecliptic. The circular
frame q is suspended and oscillates upon centres r, and by the rotation of the
spherical surface is vibrated backwards and forwards in the direction trans-
verse to the rotation of the shaft by the use of the two drivers s a double
force is obtained. To the lower side of the circumference q is attached the
stud working a friction slide u in the extremity of the lever b, which by its
oscillation vibrates the needle corner e. In the construction of the hend x of
this machine the nudle bar passes through the shank of the presser bar y,
which thus, in whatever direction it may be turned, never leaves the needle
centre. In this Figure the feed is operated by crank motion, the details of
which are further thrown in Fig. 23. The shaft carries the crank Q, driving
a friction slide X, X, in the head of the arm x 1, attached by the stud 2
to the lever x 3, vibrating on the centre x 4, which at the proper time in
each revolution pushes the feed grip 5, which rotates the feed wheel.
Figures 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, Sheet 2, show the improved shattle driver on
the plan of the finger and thumb herein mentioned and applied to the race
shattle H, to the spiral tale of which the finger and thumb driver is applied,
the thumb to push forward the shattle in which direction the greater force is
required, and the finger to retract the shattle, for which comparatively hardly
any force is required. Figure 24 is front view, Figure 25 an end view,
Figure 26 a top view of the shuttle driver detached, and the same is shown in
Figures 27 and 28 attached to the shuttle lever, and in position in connexion
with the shuttle in the shuttle race, shewing the mode of connecting the
shuttle with the driver, and manner of applying the finger and thumb to
drive the shuttle exclusively by its tail. The aftermost and stouter letter a,
Figure 26, which propels the shuttle I call the thumb, the other letter b,
Fig. 26, which withdraws the shuttle is the finger. It will be seen, Fig. 27,
that these apply themselves to the tail only, the thumb to the hinder part
of the tail to push it forward, and the linger to the other side to push it
backward, but without contact of either or of the driver with the body proper
of the shuttle, but leaving a clear space at all times between for the loop

page_text: thread to pass. The driver c slides in the shuttle rack d, and is connected by
the shank e to the shuttle lever f which vibrates on the centre g moving the
driver backwards and forwards. The sewing thread loop passed over the
shuttle free of interruption by contact by any other body slips off of it upon
the spiral tail, the under side of which being formed somewhat similar to the
outline of a corkscrew allows it to slip off without hindrance and leave it
altogether.
Figures 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, Sheet 2, shew the needle guard
detached and in position, its construction, and manner of operating. Figures
29 and 30 shew it in section at the point of its transperforation; 29 with a
concentrix, and 30 an eccentric centre. Fig. 1 shows a top view of the
needle guard mounted on its shaft; in Figures 32 and 33 it is shewn in
position with the needle entered; in Fig. 32 the needle guard has come up
to grip the needle; in Fig. 35 it has made its return motion and released
the needle; in Figures 33 and 34 it shews the apparatus and mode of
operation it; Figures 34 shews an end view of the needle guard apparatus,
and a front view of the cam which operates it; Figure 33 shews the front
view of the apparatus with an cnd view of the cam and cam shaft.
In Figures 33 and 34, a, a, is a bent crank which rocks upon the centre b,
its lower end attached to the bole c, which plays in the cam d, and its upper
end attached by the pin e to the crank which rocks the arm by which the
shaft h, Figure 31, carrying the needle guard is vibrated, and which by the
counter throw of the cam e is rotated sufliciently to grip the needle, as shewn
in Figures 33 and 34, bringing it into the position shewn at i, Figure 35. It
will be seen that the effect of this is to always hold the needle flush with the
wall of the shuttle race at the required moment, which is se turned as to be
just when the nose of the shuttle is passing the needle and it has passed.
Figures 35 and 36, Sheet 2, shew the apparatus and contrivance for
adjusting the needle bar slide box, according to the varying diameter or size of
the needle used, so as to bring the needle's surface always even and flush with
the wall of the shuttle race.
In Figures 35 and 36 a. a, represents the two halves of the needle bar slide
box, which are held together by the screws b. b, and which is in turn attached
by the screw e to the headstock d, which latter has a surface that rocks at
the point of entrance of the screw C and at the lower part of the headstock d;
the set screw g is attached to the latter part of the slide box, having a stopper
head or brace e at its other end, by the operation of which upon the turning of
the said screw g the slide box is pushed from or brought close up to the head-
stock d, as the case may be; the extent of motion is so slight as to admit of its

page_text: rocking upon the screw C without detriment to the fastening thereof; but it
may be preferable to substitute in place of its rocking screw and motion two
set screws d, d, with two steady pins i. i, as shewn in Figure 36, as the effect
this cannot fail to give a true and steady sliding motion to the side box,
keeping it always parallel.
Figures 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, shew the contrivance for simultaneously lifting
and turning the presser foot so as to turn it away from the needle and
needle bar; Figure 37 is a top view of the presser bar slide box with the
presser foot, which is shewn by the dotted lines, in its position when let down
upon the surface in its place next the needle, and the other in its position
when lifted and turned; Figure 38 shews a view of the interior surface of the
front part of the slide box turned back in reverse to its position shewn in
Figure 37 Figure 39 shews the presser bar in the position it would occupy
if in the slide box, as shewn in Figure 38; Figure 40 shews the opposition of
the same with an end view of the stud or by which it is caused to turn when
raised; Figure 41 is a front view of the same, shewing the stud a in profile,
which stud, when in position, runs in the stop b, shewn in Figures 37 and 38,
which receives, and by its special form causes the stud to travel in that direc-
tion so to cause the pressure bar to which it is attached to turn in the manner
indicated in Figure 37 when the presser bar is lifted. The lifter is composed
of a collar G, Figure 39, fitted upon the diminished shank d, Figures 40, 41,
of the presser bar, which freely turns within the collar, an a lifting lever
rocking on the stud f and carrying a bole or roller h, hearing, when the lever
is raised, upon the top of the slide box g, so that the presser bar, and with it
the foot . is the collar lifted, and by the stud and slot turned at the same time
accomplish the sewing result are inseparable from considerable noise, friction,
and consequent wear, loss of power, and loss motion resulting from their
application and system of irregular motions, which by this Invention is sought
to be, and it is believed is to a much greater extent, avoided, centres having
always less friction and noise than "cam" motion or any irregular motion,
while the power is always more evenly distributed throughout every portion of
the revolution, and the uniform movement of rotation upon a centre almost
entirely avoiding lost motion," are always most desirable. and as far as
possible availed of in all machineries required to run at high velocities, and
especially where such precise accuracy is required as in a sewing machine.
In pursuing this object some very novel, it is believed, as well as useful com-
binations of motions are presented in this Invention.
The cam shaft o. Figures 43 and 45. rotates the solid disc a which carries
the stud p, q, r, shewn in its several portions; that shewn at letter r carries

page_text: and operates the series of movements producing the shuttle action; that shewn
at letter q the portion which operates the feed; that shewn at letter > the
portion which operates the needle movement; this stud p, q. r. has a constant
rotary motion impelled by the disc a by which it is carried. The action of the
portion p of this stud which operates the series of movements for actuating the
needle is shewn in face in Figure 42. and in side view in Figure 43: the
stud p is inserted in and carries the lever e. which rocks upon the rolating
pin of the crank f, which oscillates upon the centre d, which is firmly attached
to the standards, or may be attached to any convenient fixed portion of the
frame of the machine; the other end of the lever e is attached by the pin to
the pitmang, which at its other end is attached by the stud m to the disc b,
causing it to rotate upon the centre stud h, which carries the crank attached
by the pin n to the rod j, the other end of which is attached by a stud k to
the slide c, causing it to move up and down in its vertical slide race, the extent
of which slide motion is indicated by the dotted line m, n; this slide c has the
exact motion required of the needle, first rising a little, then having a dwell
during the chief portion of the forward motion of the shuttle, then resuming
its motion until completed at the point n, and these motions being thus fixed
at the slide c may be thence distributed in various ways or in any convenient
way, and communicated to the needle. By the combined motions acting upon
the lever a the centre of its head at 1 is made to traverse a space in
Figs. 42, 43, 44, 45, and 46, Sheet 2, shew a system of construction,
arrangement, and combination of parts in various positions for effecting by
crank motions" the requisite movements of the immediate sewing instru-
ments, whether of all or of some of them, and separately or in combination.
Fig. 42 shews a front view, exhibiting the movement and combination of a
series of wheels, cranks, and levers, with the bearings removed more clearly to
shew their rotations to each other for the purpose of producing the requisite
movements of the needle, the lever, or arm; Figure 44 shews a like view
respecting the requisite movements of the shuttle lever or arm; Figure 46 shews
a like view respecting the movement of the "feed" Figure 43 shews a side
view of the first or needle series of Figure 42 in position, and with the bearings.
Figure 45 shows the like of the second or "shuttle series of Figure 44,
the position of the third or "feed" series of Figure 46 appears in Figure 47,
where the whole are shewn in side view in combination in one machine. The
general plan of this system and contrivance, as shewn in the last foregoing
series comprised in Figures 42 to 47, is that of one single direct motion,
namely, the stud or "crank" pin r, q, p, shewn altogether in Figure 43, and
the several divisions thereof in the Figures 42, 44, and 46, to perform the

page_text: office for all operating these different series of movements, the one stud
serving all, and each several division of the stud serving its several series, that
is to say, that division shewn at r, Figure 43, serving to operate the "shuttle"
series, that shewn at q to operate the "feed," and that shewn at p to operate
the needle series, the whole stud having a continuous rotary motion upon
the solid disc a, Figures 42, 43, 44, 45, and 46, which disc is rotated by the
shaft o, to which it is attached, and which is the one prime mover of the
whole. The needle, the shuttle, and the feed are herein considered and
intended as the "immediate sewing instruments" by which the sewing is
effected, the remaining parts of sewing machine being subordinate to these.
and the requisite movements" of these severally are in respect of the needle.
that it shall after rising a little then dwell in its motion for a certain
portion of each revolution of the machine, at a certain portion resume its
motion, and continue the same to the end of the revolution.
In respect of
the shuttle, that it shall move at different speeds or velocities at different
portions of its motion to accommodate its proper action to that of the needle.
and in respect to the feed that it shall move at a certain precise point or
"time" of the needle's motion, and accommodate itself thereto. These requisite
movements have heretofore been severally effected by cams, or a system of
distinct separate cams, generally barrel cams or disc cams, which, while they may
have proved efficient to the peculiar direction indicated by the red dotted line.
Fig. 42, the peculiar properties of which line of its motion and the adaptation
thereof to the radius of the pitman g. while the latter partially rotates upon
the centre m, from the point I to p in the red dotted line produces a dwell in
the rotation of the disc b, and consequently in the lift by the rod of the
slide c sufficient for the requirements of the needle motion; a duration of the
dwell for 130° of a revolution is attainable by this method, which is amply
sufficient for any requirement of the needle motion in a shuttle sewing
machine. One form of communicating and applying this motion of the slide
to the needle lever is shewn in Fig. 47, wherein the stud a is attached to the
slide c, the motion of which is imparted to it moving up and down in the
direction indicated by the dotted line d, b; this stud a carries the rod e, which
is attached by the pin to one arm of the bill-crank lever g. which rocks upon
the centre h, which last is securely fixed to any convenient standard or fixed
part of the frame of the machine; the other arm of the lever g. is connected
by the pin i with the rod j, the other end of which is attached to the stud k of
the needle lever 1, imparting through it to the needle slide bar m the very
motion of the slide c, so that the needle n has the exact movement herein-

page_text: Another form of applying a
different sewing machine is
before described required of it. The next position 9 of the prime mover stud
and its connection with the feed movement is shewn in Fig. 46. wherein
the arm r is attached to the stud q. and at the other end connected by a pin s
to the crank t, which is attached to one end of and rocks the shaft u. the other
end of which carries the arm b, having a bole or roller c at its extremity.
which pushes against the finger 2 attached to the feed wheel, the outline of
which is shewn by the dotted line y. By this combination of movements the
rotation of the stud q is made to cause the bole e at the proper time, to push
forward the finger z, and through it the feed wheel y, so as to give the proper
feed motion to the cloth or material being sewn.
lank motion to effect the feed movement in a
shewn in Fig. 23, Sheet 1, already described. The next portion of the
prime mover stud and its connection with the shuttle movement is shewn in
face in Fig. 44, and in side view Fig. 45, wherein the stud r is shewn
attached at s to the disc t, which oscillates between the points q upon the
stud of the vibrating curved arm B of the lever B, D, which rocks upon the
stud c, which last is securely fixed to the standard w, or which may be fixed
to any convenient standard or fixed part of the frame of the machine. The
other arm D of the lever B, D, is connected by the pin E
which is attached by the stud G to the sliding bar H, H. By the operation
of this combination of motions the stud r is made to cause the lever B. D, to
vibrate, the one end between the points u, U, and the other end between the
points E, E, and the slide bar H between the points indicated by the dotted
line H, G; this slide bar carries a stud I. to which is attached the arm K.
connected by a pin M with one end N seen in Fig. 27; one arm P of the
shuttle bell-crank lever P, . which rocks upon the centre g, and carries the
shuttle h, as shewn in Fig. 27. By reason of the properties of the combination
of motions connected with the stud r the shuttle bell-crank lever is made to
vibrate through the principal part of its forward motion at a much greater
velocity than in the closing portion thereof, that is to say, the shuttle is pro-
pelled most swiftly while passing through the needle thread loop, after passing
which it slowly completes its motion, so as to draw its thread in connection
with that of the needle at the closing of the stitch.
with the rod F.
In Figs. 48, 49, 50, 51, 52, is shewn a novel form of applying crank
motions for effecting a compound or duplex feed motion in two right-angled
directions, and instantaneously changeable, in which a double vibrating arm
operating by a rotating ecliptic similar to that shewn in Fig. 22, alternately
moves forward and back whichever one is desired of the slides b and c, of

page_text: which operates to move the feed in the direction of the needle arm, and the
other c to move the feed in a transverse direction, the slide e further operating
a bell-crank lever shewn at d.
Having now described this Invention, as communicated to me by my
foreign correspondent, and necessarily used to illustrate the same various parts
of machinery already known and used, and to which I make no claim, I
desire it to be understood that what I claim is, the construction, arrangement,
and combination of parts and method of driving severally described under the
seven different heads herein-before recited, or the equivalents thereof, whether
applied in one machine together or separately.
In witness whereof, I, the said Edward Thomas Hughes, have here-
unto set my hand and seal, this Fourteenth day of May, One thousand
eight hundred and sixty-four
E. T. HUGHES. (L.s.)