Improvements in Apparatus for the Manufacture of Knitted Goods.
Year: 1892

page_text: Date of Application, 31st Oct., 1892
Complete Specification Left, 30th Jan., 1893-Accepted, 18th Mar., 1893
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Apparatus for the Manufacture of Knitted Goods.
I, JACQUES SCHIESSER, of Radolfzell a Bodensee, Germany, Manufacturer of
Knitted Goods, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to apparatus for the manufacture of knitted goods which
are provided with longitudinal stripes, diagonal stripes, squares or checks, triangles,
and other patterns of any desired width and size and are made with a perfectly
smooth back or rear side, such as referred to in my application for Letters Patent
No. 5730 of 1892 that is to say, having the thread (which has hitherto been loose)
on the back or rear side interwoven with the front mesh, without said thread
becoming visible on the right side of the fabric.
Knitted fabric of this kind is made as follows:-
The thread a which hung heretofore at the back only loose and not woven in on
the wrong side of the material (see Fig. 1 which shows the back of the material),
and which, in the machine is sometimes drawn beyond the number of the unpressed
needles, is distributed and interlaced in the latter in such a manner that it lies
already before the formation of the next row of meshes, like a lining or backing
thread of a 1:1 chain pattern device in the needles, so that it becomes woven in
with the meshes on said needles, so as to produce a fabric resembling that shown in
Fig. 2.
This can be effected in two ways:-
the
1. By arranging a 1:1 pressing wheel to press from below, upon the head of the
needles. Figs. 3, 4 and illustrate the construction of this pressing wheel in front
elevation, plan, and cross section. This pressing wheel c is set in such a manner
that at certain times it raises either the first or the second needle, whilst the other
needles remain below (in the slots of the pressing wheel). The thread a which
forms one colored stripe, lies as usual quite loose above the needles which inter-
weave the thread of the stripe of the other color, that is to say is merely drawn
across. At this place where the 1: 1 pressing wheel c presses up the needles y
fabric is, together with the thread lying loose above the needles, advanced through
the wires against the point of the needle. The result of this is that the loose
thread a at those needles
whilst
which are pressed up, passes into their hooks
y
the said thread at those needles y' which remain below, is pushed over the hooks of
the needles and remains on the same. During the further movement of the
material up to the head of the needle the loose thread lying above the needle
hook is pushed down with ease by means of a stripping wheel of known
construction, so that the said thread, when the material is drawn in again, lies
under the respective needles and has exactly the same appearance as a lining
thread of a 1:1 chain pattern making device. In the formation of the next row of
meshes the distributed thread can now be interwoven with the fabric and thus the
binding of the loose thread with the meshes proper can be effected.
2,
Figs. 6 and 7 illustrate the just described operation of the pressing pattern
wheel c.
2. By means of a modified mesher-wire.
Whereas in the first process it is necessary first to have a thread lying loose
above the unpressed needles (y¹) in order to distribute it by means of the pressing
pattern wheel, the said thread is distributed by this second apparatus into the
threads as soon as it is formed, that is to say, in inserting the thread to be used, the
latter is placed in such a manner in the needles which are not pressed, that it
passes each time over the first needle, that is to say comes up to its hook, and is

page_text: placed into the hook of the second needle, or vice versa it passes each time over the
second needle and is laid each time in the hook of the first needle.
No special mechanism is required to carry out this method, but the mesher-wire
is modified.
Fig. 8 shows this arrangement in its application to a circular loom. The mesher-
wires e as is well known serve in circular looms, to lay the thread to be interwoven,
into the point of the needles.
These wires of which about 300 work together at times, are held by the mesher f
which consists of two plates attached to the same axle and having exactly as many
incisions as there are wires working together. The wires are inserted in these
incisions in such a manner that the front hook g thereof during the rotation of the
mesher, falls at times between the needles, and on further rotation of the mesher,
moves rearwardly towards the needle-hook and inserts the thread carried with it in
the front hook g, into the needle-hook. The following wires all describe the same
path as the first and since the circular series of needles, and the wires, move
angularly in the same direction, and a wire falls in between each needle, the general
result is that a non-interwoven mesh is formed in each of all the needle points.
In order to interweave the meshes, the needle-hooks are closed by pressure from
above, and exactly at this place the interwoven meshes (that is to say, the finished
material) suspended from the needles, are advanced towards the needle-hook, so
that these meshes slide or slip over the latter and in falling down along the head of
the needle, remain caught on the thread (now in the form of meshes) that has been
inserted by the mesher-wires e into the needle-hook.
If however instead of closing the needle point of each needle regularly and
without exception, a certain number for instance, 5 be passed over at times, which
is effected by means of pressing pattern wheels, then there is obtained at this spot,
on drawing in the fabric over these 5 unpressed needles, a loose drawn thread.
In order to avoid this loose thread, or when inserting it to distribute it in the
same manner as was the case with the first apparatus by arranging the 1:1 pressing
wheel, it is necessary to provide a small pin on the left or right side of the front
hook of the mesher-wire e. This pin h which when the wire falls between the
needles, presses at the same time the point of the latter, closes the point and thus
instead of laying the thread into the needle hook, allows the said thread to slip
over the latter up to the needle head, whereupon it is stripped off by means of a
stripping wheel and brought under the needle. On the fabric being again pushed
in, the same operation takes place as hereinbefore described, that is to say the
thread is distributed amongst the several needles in such a manner that it has
exactly the same appearance as the lining thread of a 1 : 1 chain pattern, and can
thereby become bound with the fabric proper, on the formation of the next row of
meshes. In this connection it should be noted that all the wires falling between
the unpressed needles need not be provided with pins, but that alternately one has
a pin and the next has none.
****
Figs. 9 and 10 illustrate the working of wires e of this kind with the thread a.
One wire is provided with a pin h, the other has no pin.
Fig. 10 shows how the wire provided with a pin has pushed the thread
over the needle hook and has a tendency to throw it off, whilst the wire without a
pin, has drawn' the thread into the needle hook, and has caught it.
་་
קר
The apparatus may be employed for manufacturing knitted goods of any desired
material, for example silk, worsted yarn, cotton, flax, carded yarn or wool, imitation
vigogne or vicuna, merino yarn, tussah, ramie yarn or china grass, etc., or of com-
binations of such yarns such as cotton with worsted, worsted with silk, silk with
cotton etc., and in any desired combinations of 'colours and it may be with lining
woven in.
11.4.2
Dated this 28th day of October 1892.
..

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Apparatus for the Manufacture of Knitted Goods.
I, JACQUES SCHIESSER, of Radolfzell am Bodensee, Germany, Manufacturer of
Knitted Goods, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner
the same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement :-
This invention relates to apparatus for the manufacture of knitted goods which
are provided with longitudinal stripes, diagonal stripes, squares or checks, triangles,
and other patterns of any desired width and size and are made with a perfectly
smooth back or rear side, such as referred to in my application for Letters Patent
No. 5730 of 1892 that is to say, having the thread (which has hitherto been loose)
on the back or rear side interwoven with the front mesh, without said thread
becoming visible on the right side of the fabric.
Knitted fabric of this kind, is made as follows, reference being had to the
drawings filed with my Provisional Specification :-
:-
The thread a which previous to the date of my said former application hung
loosely at the back and was not woven in on the wrong side of the material (see
Fig. 1 of said drawings which shows the back of the material), and which, in the
machine is sometimes drawn beyond the number of the unpressed needles, is by my
invention distributed and interlaced in the latter in such a manner that it lies
before the formation of the next row of meshes, like a lining or backing thread of
a 1:1 chain pattern device in the needles, so that it becomes woven in with the
meshes on said needles so as to produce a fabric resembling that shown in Fig. 2.
This can be effected in two ways:-
1. By arranging a 1:1 pressing wheel to press from below upon the head of
the needles. Figs. 3, 4 and 5 illustrate the construction of this pressing wheel in
front elevation, plan, and cross section. Figs. 6 and 7 are detail views thereof to a
larger scale. The pressing wheel c is set in such a manner that at certain times it
raises either the first or the second needle, whilst the other needles remain below
(in the slots of the pressing wheel). The thread a which forms one colored stripe,
lies as usual quite loose above the needles which interweave the thread of the
stripe of the other color, that is to say it is merely drawn across such needles. At
this place where the 1:1 pressing wheel c presses up the needles y the fabric is,
together with the thread lying loose above the needles, advanced through the
wires c¹ against the point of the needle. The result of this is that the loose thread a
at those needles y which are pressed up, passes into their hooks z, whilst the said
thread at those needles y' which remain below, is pushed over the hooks of the
needles and remains on the same. During the further movement of the material up
to the head of the needle, the loose thread lying above the needle hook z is pushed
down with ease by means of a stripping wheel d of known construction, so that
the said thread, when the material is drawn in again, lies under the respective
needles and has exactly the same appearance as a lining thread of a 1:1 chain
pattern making device. In the formation of the next row of meshes the distributed
thread can now be interwoven with the fabric and thus the binding of the loose
thread with the meshes proper can be effected. Figs. 6 and 7 illustrate the just
described operation of the pressing pattern wheel c.
2. By means of a modified mesher-wire.
Whereas in the first process it is necessary first to have a thread lying loose
above the unpressed needles (y') in order to distribute it by means of the pressing
pattern wheel, the said thread is distributed by this second apparatus into the
threads as soon as it is formed, that is to say, in inserting the thread to be used,
the latter is placed in such a manner in the needles which are not pressed, that

page_text: it passes each time over the first needle, that is to say comes up to its hook,
and is placed into the hook of the second needle; or vice versa it passes each
time over the second needle and is laid each time in the hook of the first needle.
No special mechanism is required to carry out this method, but the mesher-wire is
modified.
Fig. 8 shows this arrangement in its application to a circular loom. The mesher-
wires e, as is well known, serve in circular looms to lay the thread to be inter-
woven into the points of the needles.
These wires, of which about 30 work together at times, are held by the
mesher, which consists of two plates attached to the same axle and having as
many incisions as there are wires working together. The wires are inserted in
these incisions in such the usual manner and the front hooky of each wire during
the rotation of the mesher, falls at times between the needles, and on further
rotation of the mesher, moves rearwardly towards the needle-hook and inserts the
bread carried by it into the needle-hook.
The following wires all describe the same path as the first, and since the circular
eries of needles, and the wires, move angularly in the same direction, and a wire
falls in between each needle, the general result is that a non-interwoven mesh
is formed in each of the needle points. In order to interweave the meshes,
he needle-hooks are closed by pressure from above, and exactly at this place
the interwoven meshes (that is to say, the finished material) suspended from the
needles, are advanced towards the needle-hook so that these meshes slide or slip
over the latter and in falling down along the head of the needle, remain caught on
the thread (now in the form of meshes) that has been inserted by the mesher-
wires e into the needle-hooks.
If however instead of closing the needle point of each needle regularly and
without exception, a certain number for instance five, be passed over at times,
which is effected by means of pressing pattern wheels, which are provided with
recesses extending over these five needles, then there is obtained at this spot, on
drawing in the fabric over these five unpressed needles, a loose drawn thread. In
order to avoid the formation of this loose thread, or when inserting it, to dis-
tribute it in the same manner as in the first mentioned apparatus by means of the
1:1 pressing wheel, it is necessary to provide a small pin on the left or
right side
of the front hook g of each second mesher-wire e. This pin h, when the wire falls
between the needles, presses against the point of one of them and closes it, so that
the thread instead of being laid into the needle hook, is permitted to slip over the
latter up to the needle head, whereupon it is stripped off by means of a stripping
wheel and brought under the needle. On the fabric being again pushed in, the
same operation takes place as hereinbefore described, that is to say the thread
is distributed amongst the several needles in such a manner that it has exactly the
same appearance as the lining thread of a 1:1 chain pattern, and can thereby become
interwoven with the fabric proper on the formation of the next row of meshes. In
this connection it should be noted that all the mesher-wires falling between the
unpressed needles need not be provided with pins, but that alternately one may
have a pin and the next one not and so on.
Figs. 9 and 10 illustrate the working of mesher-wires e of this kind with
the thread s. One mesher-wire is provided with a pin h, whilst the next
has no pin.
Fig. 10 shows how the mesher-wire provided with a pin h has pushed the tbread
over the needle hook and has a tendency to throw it off, whilst the wire without a
pin, has caught the thread and drawn it into the needle hook.
Apparatus constructed as described may be employed for manufacturing knitted
goods of any desired material, for example silk, worsted yarn, cotton, flax, carded
yarn or wool, imitation vigogne or vicuna, merino yarn, tussal, ramie yarn or china
grass, etc., or of combinations of such yarns such as cotton with worsted, worsted
with silk, silk with cotton etc., and in any desired combinations of colours, and it
may be with a lining woven on to it.

page_text: Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed 1 declare that what I
claim is :-
1. A circular loom or apparatus for the manufacture of knitted goods of the kind
herein referred to, wherein a 1:1 pressing wheel c is arranged below the knitting
needles and is adapted to alternately raise one needle (y) without raising the
next (y), so that the thread (a) is alternately caught and allowed to slip over the
needle hook substantially as herein described for the purpose specified.
2. A circular loom or apparatus for the manufacture of knitted goods of the
kind herein referred to, wherein there are used in combination with pressing
pattern wheels, mesher wires e, each second or alternate one of which is provided
with a lateral pin h adapted to close the point of the corresponding needle hooks
so as to allow of the thread slipping over such point substantially as herein
described for the purpose specified.
r
1000
J. SCHIESSER,
By L. W., per F. B.