AN IMPROVED RECTILINEAR SEWING MACHINE FOR HOSIERY
Year: 1875

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Joseph Alexandre Guivet, of the Firm Guivet
et Cc., of Troyes (France), Manufacturers, for the Invention of
“AN IMPROVED RECTILINEAR SEWING MACHINE FOR HOSIERY."
"AN IMPROVED RECTILINEAR SEWING MACHINE FOR HOSIERY."
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Joseph Alexandre Guivet
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition,
on the 29th April 1875.
I, JOSEPH ALExandre GuiveT, of the Firm Guivet et Ce., of Troyes,
(France), Manufacturers, do hereby declare the nature of the said
Invention for "AN IMPROVED RECTILINEAR SEWING MACHINE FOR HOSIERY,"
to be as follows:
:-
The obstacle presented to turning back to the mesh the selvage formed
at each operation of the sewing has induced me to endeavour to utilize
the different systems known as detached rules, permitting a previous
turning back upon the rules away from the machine. The work in
effect thus divided becomes continuous in the machine, but the transport

page_text: .
of the meshes upon these rules being impossible upon a circular part I
have been led to construct a new rectilinear machine. The sewing
remains the same, and is produced rapidly, as in the circular machine
already patented by me on the 17th October 1874, No. 3572. In my
new machine the principles of action of the sewing and the special organs
are the same, the difference consisting merely in the changes in the
transformations of the movements. My present Invention therefore
consists in a new mechanical combination forming a rectilinear machine
with articulated needles to sew the selvages of stockings and other
articles of hosiery.
A needle is mounted upon a hinged piece jointed to.a rod; this rod is
animated with a to-and-fro motion along the support of a platform; a
roller which slides in a circular groove and excentric to a disc draws the
rod; a rock lever is carried by a bearing fixed to the support;.its inter-
mittent mode of action is exactly similar to that of the circular machine,
only this action is suppressed by reversing it so as to avoid its contact
with the pin or needle carrier. The workman having regulated the
excentric of the lever in order that it may advance the rack a double
distance,, the point of English sewing is changed into a simple chain at
each mesh only and the machine-acts as a simple re-mesher. A hook is
mounted by means of a double jointing, permitting it to displace simul-
taneously and differentially from bottom to top,. from right to left,
The
reciprocally under the action of circumferential and lateral cams.
lever of the hook is terminated by two rollers which render the move-
ments softer and more regular.
The rule or point carrier is actuated. horizontally on an iron runner
through an endless screw actuated by a rack, which turns with it upon a
common axis. A lever connected by jointing to the end of the main shaft
fulfils the office of a catch to the hook.
The gearing or disengagement of the screw threads in the teeth of the
rack are effected by raising and separating it by means of a hand lever,
the carriage is thus free instantaneously to be withdrawn from its
runner, upon which it is adjusted.
For the sake of rapidity the machine can be provided with several
point carriages, and a child can thus remount in advance the web.upon
the carriages,out of action.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Joseph Alexandre Guivet in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 21st October 1875.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JOSEPH
ALEXANDRE GUIVET, of the Firm Guivet et C., of Troyes, France,
Manufacturer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letter's
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-ninth day of April, in the year of 'our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-five, in the thirty-eighth
year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and
grant unto me, the said Joseph Alexandre Guivet, Her special licence
that I, the said Joseph Alexandre Guivet, my executors, administra-
'tors, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Joseph Alexandre Guivet,
my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during
the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use,
exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and
Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "AN
IMPROVED RECTILINEAR SEWING MACHINE FOR HOSIERY," upon the condition
(amongst others) that I, the said Joseph Alexander Guivet, my exe-
cutors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or
their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe
and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner
the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the
Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and imme-
diately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Joseph Alexandre Guivet, do hereby
declare the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement thereof, that is to say :-
The obstacles presented to turning back to the mesh the selvage formed
at each operation of the sewing has induced me to endeavour to utilize
the different systems known as detached rules, permitting a previous
turning back upon the rules away from the machine. The work in
effect thus divided becomes continuous in the machine, but the transport
of the meshes upon these rules being impossible upon a circular part-I

page_text: remains the same, and is produced rapidly as in the circular machine
already patented by me on the 17th October 1874, No. 3572. In my
new machine the principles of action of the sewing and the special
organs are the same, the difference consisting merely in the changes in
the transformations of the movements. My present Invention therefore
consists in a new mechanical combination forming a rectilinear machine
with articulated needles to sew the selvages of stockings and other
- articles of hosiery.
The following description and the accompanying Drawings will enable
my new machine to be readily understood.
Figure 1 is a side view and Figure 2 a plan of the machine.
The needle A is mounted upon a hinged piece C jointed to a rod T;
this rod is animated with a to-and-fro motion along the support S. of the
platform B; a roller sliding in a circular groove and excentric to a
disc K.draws the rod T; a rock lever L is carried by a bearing fixed to
the support S; its intermittent mode of action is exactly similar to that
of the circular machine, only this action is suppressed by reversing it so
as to avoid its contact with the pin F or needle carrier C. The workman
having thus regulated the excentric of the lever N in order that it may
advance the rack a double distance the point of English sewing is
changed into a simple chain at each mesh only, and the machine acts as
a simple re-mesher. A hook D is mounted by means of a double
jointing, permitting it to displace simultaneously and differentially from
bottom to top, from right to left, reciprocally under the action of cir-
cumferential and lateral cams E and e. The lever M of the hook is
terminated by two rollers x, y, which render the movements softer and
more regular.
The rule or point carrier R is actuated horizontally upon an iron
runner P by an endless screw V. attached to a ratchet wheel U, which
turns with it upon a common axis. A lever N connected by jointing to
the end of the shaft O fulfils the office of a catch to the hook.
The gearing or disengagement of the screw threads in the teeth of the
rule are effected by raising and separating it by means of a hand lever, the
carriage R is thus free instantaneously to be withdrawn from its runner P
upon which it is adjusted, sliding in a groove R'.

page_text: For the sake of rapidity the machine may be provided with several
carry point carriages, so that a child can lift the web out of action.
And having now described the nature of my said Invention and in
what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that I claim,—
First. The method of rectilineal transmission of the carriage by the
aid of an endless screw and ratchet, with its instantaneous ungearing
leading spontaneously the free carriage to the fixed rule and serving it
as its guide or runner, as herein-before described and shown in the
annexed Drawings.
Secondly. The transformation of the circular machine patented the
17th October 1874, No. 3572, into a rectilineal machine producing the
same sewing by articulating the needle, making its point alternately in
the meshes and between each mesh, as herein-before described and shown
in the Drawings.
Thirdly. The application upon this machine of various improvements,
such as the placing of plates to hold the points, the mounting of the
hook with double articulation and rubbing of rollers, the rectilineal
movement of the needle by opposition to the circular movement, necessi-
tating short needles, and all the special mechanical improvements above
described and shown in the Drawings.
Fourthly. The special arrangements giving the power of instantly
converting when desired my English system sewing machine into an
ordinary re-mesher, as described and shown.
In witness whereof, I, the said Joseph Alexandre Guivet, have
hereunto set my hand and seal, this Fifth day of October, One
thousand eight hundred and seventy-five.
Witness,
CH. ARMENGAUD,
Civil Engineer,
J. A. GUIVET. (L.S.)
23, Boulevard de Strasbourg,
à Paris.