Improvements in Sewing Machines for Use in the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes.
Year: 1897

page_text: Date of Application, 30th Mar., 1897-Accepted, 22nd May, 1897
GODT LEIE DIEULE TOATIUN
[Communicated from abroad by GOODYEAR SHOE MACHINERY COMPANY,
of 53 State Street, Boston, Massachusetts, United States of America,
Manufacturers.]
Improvements in Sewing Machines for Use in the Manufacture of
Boots and Shoes.
I, HENRY HARRIS LAKE, of the Firm of Haseltine, Lake & Co., Patent Agents,
45 Southampton Buildings, in the County of Middlesex, do hereby declare the
nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This invention has for its object to provide means for basting a lasted upper to
the inner solo of a welted boot or shoe after the upper has beeu secured thereto by
the lasting-tacks, and at the same time, pulling out the lasting-tacks close to the
point where the basting stitches are formed, the upper and welt being thus secured
together by fastenings which will not interfere with the operation of a welt-sewing
machine in stitching together the welt, upper, and inner sole, so that the permanent
stitch-forming operation may be performed immediately after the lasting operation,
without the necessity of waiting until the upper has become sufficiently set in its
lasted form to warrant the removal of the lasting-tacks. It is the usual practice,
after lasting a boot or shoe upper and securing it with lasting-tacks, to lay aside
the upper while on the last, and allow it to remain for a considerable period, usually
twenty-four hours, until the form of the upper has become sufficiently permanent
to warrant the removal of the insting-tacks, so that the welt, upper, and inner sole
may be stitched together by a welt-sowing machine. By my invention, the lasting-
tacks are removed progressively, and the upper and inner sole are connected close
to the point where each tack is removed, by light basting stitches designed to form
a temporary connection between the two and to hold the upper in its lasted form
upon the last during the permanent stitch-forming operation. The invention
consists in the improvements hereinafter described and claimed.
Of the accompanying drawings, forming a part of this specification,―
Figure 1 represents a front elevation of a sewing-machine embodying the
invention.
Figure 2 represents an end elevation of the same.
Figure 3 represents a section on line 3-3 of Figure 2.
Figure 4 represents an elevation, showing the needle and cutter operating
mechanism.
Figure 5 represents a section on the line 5-5 of Figure 4.
Figure 6 represents a section on the line 6-6 of Figure 4.
Figures 7, 8, and 9 represent a portion of the machine, showing the positions of
the various parts at different stages of the operation.
Figure 10 represents a perspective view of portions of the machine.
Figure 11 represents a perspective view of the prosser-foot.
Figure 12 represents a section on line 12-12 of Figure 3.
Figure 13 represents a diagrammatic view or chart of the cams carried by the
driving-shaft.
The same letters of reference indicate the same parts in all the figures.

page_text: In carrying out my invention, I provide a suitable stitch-forming mechanism,
which may be of any suitable type, preferably adapted to carry a waxed thread.
The mechanism here illustrated comprises a curved needle F, which has a lateral
movement while it is projected, to feed the work, and a return movement while it
is retracted. The machine is provided with a sliding head a, which moves
horizontally on fixed guides bb on the frame of the machine, and is reciprocated
by means of a cam caffixed to the driving-shafts of the machine; a rock-shaft
mounted in fixod bearings on the frame, and provided with arms d', the former
being engaged with the cam c; and a link e connecting the arm & with an ear
aflixed to the sliding head a.
The needle F is affixed to a holder or carrier, which oscillates on a fixod
stud (Figure 6) secured to a flange a' on the sliding head a. The needle-
carrier is oscillated by means of a cam f in a disk on the driving-shafts, a
lever pivoted at f to the frame of the machine and having a trundle-roll f
engaged with the cam 1, a bell-crank lover fe pivoted at f' to the flauge a¹ on the
sliding head, and a rod connecting the longer arm of the lever with the
needle-carrier f. The lever fand bell-erauk lever fare connected by a pin ƒª
in a blook 10 (see Figures 4 and 5), the pin sliding lengthwise in the block to
permit the horizontal movements of the sliding head a without disturbing the
connection between the levers³ audƒª.
9 represents a work-rest formed to support the lip on the inner sole of a
boot or shoe, and the portion of the upper u that bears on the outer side of said
lip, said rest being rigidly affixed to the frame of the machine. h represents a
presser foot formed on or attached to a lever ', which oscillates on the stud fl
that supports the needle-carrier. The presser-foot is formed to enter the anglo
formed by the lip and the face of the inner sole and to press said lip and the
portion of the upper bearing against its outer surface, against the fixed rest g, the
presser-foot being normally pressed toward the rest g by means of a spring *
connected at one end with the lever hand at the other end with the flange a'.
To move the presser-foot away from the rest g, for the purpose of releasing the
work, a slide ³ is provided, having a screw arranged to bear on the lever /¹
and cause a presser-foot-displacing movement of said lever. The slide h' is
movable in a guide a³ affixed to the sliding head a, and has a lug h (Figuros 1
and 2) which is located in the path of the longer arm of the bell-crank lever/6, 80
that when said arm swings in the direction required to retract the needle, it also
causes the displacement of the presser-foot from its operative position.
*
To the fixed rest g is affixed a cutter or shear-blade i, arranged to co-operate
with a movable cutter in trimming off the surplus portion of the edge of the
upper u, as indicated in Figure 8, the movable cutter being affixed to and moving
with the needle-carrier, so that when the needle advances and penetrates the lip
and upper u, the cutters sever the portion of the upper that projects above said lip,
or if desired, they may trim both the lip and upper.
j represents a tack-puller, which is formed and arranged to engage the Insting-
tacks that secure the upper to the inuer sole, and to remove said tacks at a point
immediately in advance of the work-rest, aud cutters, so that each tack remains in
position to hold the upper in place until it has nearly reached the cutters, and is
then removed to prevent injury to the cutters and needle. The tack-puller is
affixed to an arm which is pivoted to a lever . Said lever is pivoted at j³ to
the frame of the machine, and has a trandle-roll (Figures 2 and 3) engaged with
a cam j in a disk on the driving-shafts. The arm is extended rearwardly from
the lever, and is pivoted to a second lever jo, which is provided with a trundle-
roll engaging a cam in a disk on the driving-shaft s. The lever is oscillated
to give the tack-puller a substantially horizontal movement toward and from the
work, while the second lever gives the tack-puller a vertical oscillating movement,
and is timed to move the operating end of the tack-puller upwardly just as it moves
forward and engages a tack.
& represents the loover, which is affixed to a tubular shaft &¹ (Figure 12). Said

page_text: shaft is intermittently rotated in Axed bearings on the frame of the machine, by
means of a rack-segment on a disk affixed to the driving-shafts, and a
pinion affixed to the looper-shaft and meshing with the segment.
m represents the take-up lever, which is oscillated by a cam m² and an arm »*
having a trundle-roll m³ engaging the cam in'.
n represents an auxiliary presser-foot or work-holder, which is an arm or finger
formed to penetrate the inner side of the lip t and adapted to alternate with the
presser-foot in holding said lip. The work-holder n is affixed to a lover n', which
ie pivoted at n' to an arm affixed to the frame of the machine, and is connected by
a link n' with a lever n pivoted at n to the frame of the machine and held by a
spring against a cam n' on the driving-shafts.
The operation of the above-described mechanism is as follows: The needle
being retracted and the sliding head a at the left-hand end of its movement, as
viewed in Figure 1, the operator retracting the auxiliary work holder n by means
of the handle portion of the lever n', brings the work over on the fixed rest g, then
releases the work-holder n, thus allowing the spring n to press said holder against
the lip of the inner sole and hold the work in place. The machine now being set
in motion, the presser-foot first advances and co-operates with the work-holder n
in holding the work against the rest g, the work being thus securely held before it
is penetrated by the needle. The advancing needle then penetrates the work, and
is followed by the cutter i, which co-operates with the cutter i, as indicated in
Figure 8, after the needle has penetrated the lip and upper. The tack-puller theu
advances in a direction opposite to the advancing movement of the needle, and
withdraws the tack nearest the needle and cutters. After the needle has reached
its extreme forward movement, the work-holder n is retracted, releasing the work,
and the sliding head a is moved toward the right, causing the needle to feed the
work, the latter being at this time additionally held by the presser-foot h, which
moves with the needle. The looper then supplies thread to the needle, and the
work-holder n advances and holds the work against the rest 9. The needle and
the cutter i now withdraw, the needle drawing a loop of thread through the upper
and the lip of the sole. The presser-foot his displaced after the withdrawal of
the needle, the work-holder continuing to hold the work against the rest g. The
sliding head now moves toward the left, returning the needle to position to penetrate
the material for the formation of the next stitch.
It will be seen that the work is held by the rest 9, the work-holder n, and the
pressor-foot h, while the needle is penetrating the work and during the operations
of trimning the edge of the upper and withdrawing the tacks.
It will be seen that the presser-foot and auxiliary work-holder both co-operate
with the back-rest 9 in holding the work while the needle is penetrating, and that
the presser-foot moves laterally with the needle and holds the work against the
back-rest during the work-feeding movement of the needle, the auxiliary work-
holder being at this time withdrawn. The auxiliary work-holder performs the
important function of engaging the work and holding it securely in place while the
needle and presser-foot are retracted and are moving laterally to return the needlo
to its starting position. The work is therefore at all times controlled by the
machine, and connects the upper and inner sole by stitches of uniform length.
I am the first, so far as I am aware, to combine a stitch-forming mechanism, a
work-rest or guide, a fixed trimming outter, a presser-foot, a tack-puller, and a
movable trimming-blade; and I do not, therefore, limit myself, so far as this
combination is concerned, to a stitch-forming mechanism of the curved-needle type,
nor to the mechanical construction herein shown and described, of the other
elements of the said combination.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, as communicated to me
by my foreign correspondents, I declare that what I claim is :-
1. A sewing-machine comprising in its construction a curved needle and an

page_text: oscillating arm therefor, a rotary hook or looper, a work-support, and a cutter
carried by the oscillating needle-arm.
2. A sewing-machine comprising in its construction a curved needle and an
Oscillating arm therefor, a rotary hook or looper, a work-support, a cutter carried
by the oscillating needle-arm, and a tack-puller arranged to draw tacks from the
work at a point beside the work-rest.
3. In a sewing machine, the combination with the work-support having a shoulder
or portion adapted to form a fixed trimming-blade, of the oscillating needle-arm or
lever having a cutter rigidly secured thereto and adapted to co-operate with the
work-support shoulder in trimming the work.
4. The combination of a stitch-forming mechanism including a curved needle
and an oscillating carrier therefor, a fixed rest formed to extend into the angle of
an inner sole and its lip, a fixed trimming-blade seoured to and supported by said
rest, and a movable trimming-blade secured to the needle-carrier and arranged to
co-operate with the fixed blade in trimming the work.
5. A sewing-machine of the character specified, comprising a fixed back-rest, a
reciprocating sliding head or carrier, a curved needle and a pressor-foot both
supported by said head, and an auxiliary work-holder which releases the work
while it is being fed by the needle and presser-foot and holds the work during the
return lateral movement of the needle and presser-foot.
6. A sewing-machine of the character specified, comprising a fixed back-rest, a
reciprocating sliding feeding head, a curved needle and a pressor-foot, an auxiliary
work-holder which releases the work while it is being fed and holds the work
during the return lateral movement of the feed device, and a tack-puller adapted
to draw the tacks while the work is held by the fixed rost and the pressor-foot and
the auxiliary work-holder.
7. The combination of a stitch-forming mechanism, a work-rest or guide formed
to support an inner sole and its lip, a fixed trimming-blade adjacent to said rest, a.
presser-foot arranged to co-oporate with said rest in clamping the work, a tack-
puller arranged to draw tacks from the work at a point beside the work-rest aud
presser-foot, and a movable trimming-blade adapted to co-operate with the fixed
trimming-blade in removing the surplus material from the work..
Dated this 16th day of March 1897
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
45 Southampton Buildings, London, W.C., Agents for the Applicant.