Improvements in Apparatus for Use in Cutting Patterns for Boots and Shoes.
Year: 1893

page_text: Date of Application, 28th June, 1893
Complete Specification Left, 28th Mar., 1894-Accepted, 12th May, 1894
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Apparatus for Use in Cutting Patterns for Boots
and Shoes.
We, CHARLES JOHN WARD, of 136, Grosvenor Road, Bristol, in the County
of Gloucester, Machinery Agent, and ARTHUR CHARLES BONSALL, of 9 and
10, St. Bride's Avenue, Fleet Street, in the City of London, Newspaper Proprietor,
do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to a simple ready and reliable apparatus or chart for
making standard bespoke or to-measure patterns for boots and shoes.
In carrying out the invention we construct the chart of a board or plate on
which is pivoted an angular bar carrying other pivoted bars, the said plate and
bars having marked thereon a number of scales or measures in all the chief
positions at which measures are required to be taken or marked on the pattern to
be produced, that is to say, the said scales indicate the correct places at which to
mark joint, instep, heel and ankle measures in every ordinary size. The pivots of
the said bars practically represent the principal joints of the foot their positions
being chosen in accordance with certain well known anatomical facts.
A common base or ground line is marked upon the board or plate and upon this
Across these vertical
line are set up vertical lines representing the various sizes.
lines are marked three oblique lines indicating three different ranges of spring for
the toes that is to say, those for ordinary lasts, highly sprung lasts and lasts with a
dead forepart. At the side of this toe scale is a scale for marking off the width
of the toes. On the said base line at a certain distance from the toe-scale are also
set up a series of oblique lines for the joints, such lines representing the various
sizes, and being crossed by horizontal lines for marking the girth measures of the
joints. At a distance from the joint scale is set up a vertical line graduated to
represent the various heights of heel.
On the pivoted angular bar are a scale for instep girths, a scale for the heel-
heights marked in inverse order to the heel-height scale on the base line, a scale
for heel curves in all sizes and a scale for the heights of the legs.
At a suitable point upon the said angular bar is pivoted one end of a bar having
pivoted to its other end a bar the free end of which forms a pointer for setting it
to the heel-height scale on the angular bar. The two bars carried by the angular
bar have lines for marking off the girths of the heel and ankle respectively. The
heel girth scale is also provided with lines for marking off the measurements at
different angles, five for example, the middle line being used for all ordinary
measures, the lines nearer the instep-girth scale for low insteps and those nearer
the ankle-girth scale for high insteps. These last mentioned heel lines have
nothing to do with the sizes. The ankle lines are for use according to size and
measure as are also the joint and instep girth lines.
Perforations are provided in the board or plate and angular bar at all the points
where the various measurements have to be marked and two holes are also provided
in the angular bar at different heights for a purpose hereinafter described.
To make a pattern by means of our apparatus or chart from the measures given
the following deductions must first be made riz :—

page_text: The chart is then placed upon a sheet of paper and the angular bar is moved
upon its pivot until its bottom edge is at the required height of heel. The ankle
girth bar is then adjusted to indicate a like measurement upon the heel-height scale
of the angular bar. With a point or pricker the range of spring for the toe is
then marked on the paper beneath the chart at the junction of the vertical size-line
and oblique spring-line of the toe-scale; in a similar manner the width of the toe
is marked according to size on the scale at the side of the toe-scales; at the joint
scale the size is first marked at the base, then the girth at the junction of the size-
line with the required horizontal line; the girth at the instep-scale is similarly
marked; the height of the heel is then marked and a mark is also made through
the lowermost of the hereinbefore mentioned holes; the required heel-girth is
next marked through the proper line of the heel-bar, a mark is made through the
uppermost of the said holes which is situated just above the pivot of the heel-bar
and a mark is made (according to size) to give the heel curve through the scale
provided for that purpose; the heel-height is marked through the heel-height scale
on the angular bar and then the ankle-girth is marked through the ankle-bar; the
height of the leg is then marked through the scale provided therefor, a mark is
made through the heel-end of the base line and the chart is removed from the sheet
of paper.
The mark made on the paper through the heel-end of the base line of the chart
is now united by means of a pencil or its equivalent with the mark made through
the base line at the joint-scale. Upon the horizontal line thus drawn a vertical
line is set up with the aid of a set square passing through the ankle-girth mark,
giving the correct inclination for the front of the leg. At a right angle to the
front of the leg a line is next drawn cutting the point marked for the height of the
leg and on this line the leg measurement is set off.
The points thus obtained are united, the top is shaped according to requirement
and the pattern cut out.
Dated the 28th day of June 1902
G. F. REDFERN & Co.,
4, South Street, Finsbury, London, Agents for the Applicants.
Improvements in Apparatus for Use in Cutting Patterns for Boots
and Shoes.
We, CHARLES JOHN WARD, of 136, Grosvenor Road, Bristol, in the County
of Gloucester, Machinery Agent, and ARTHUR CHARLES BONSALL, of 9 and
10, St. Bride's Avenue, Fleet Street, in the City of London, Newspaper Proprietor,
do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is
to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement:―
This invention relates to a simple, ready and reliable apparatus or chart for
making standard bespoke or to-measure patterns for boots and shoes.
In carrying out the invention we construct the chart of a board of card or like
material on which is pivotted an angular bar carrying other pivotted bars, the said
plate and bars having marked thereon a number of scales or measures in all the
chief positions at which measures are required to be taken or marked on the
pattern to be produced, that is to say, the said scales indicate the correct places at
which to mark joint, instep, toe, heel and ankle measures in every ordinary size.
The pivots of the said bars practically represent the principal joints of the foot
their positions being chosen in accordance with certain well known anatomical
facts.

page_text: To enable our invention to be fully understood we will describe how it can be
carried into practice by reference to the accompanying drawings, in which :-
Figure 1 is a plan of apparatus constructed according to our invention for use in
cutting patterns for women's boots and shoes.
Figure 2 is a similar view of the board without the pivotted bars; and,'
Figures 3, 4 and 5 are detached views of the respective bars.
Figure 6 is a plan of the board of the apparatus as used for cutting patterns
for men's boots and shoes; and,
Figures 7, 8 and 9 are detached views of the pivotted bars.
u, Figures 1, 2 and 6 is the board of card or like material upon which a common
base or ground line is marked; upon this-line are set up vertical lines c figured
as shewn to represent the various sizes of toes. Across these vertical lines are
marked three oblique lines d indicating three different ranges of spring for the
toes, that is to say, the middle line indicates the spring for ordinary lasts, the top
line that for highly sprung lasts and the bottom line that for lasts with a dead
forepart. At the side of the toe scale c, d is a scale e for marking off the width
of the toes in all sizes. On the base lines bat a certain distance from the toe-
scale c,
d are also set up a series of oblique lines f for the joints, such lines being
figured to represent the various sizes and placed two thirds of a size apart and
being crossed by horizontal lines 9 for marking the girth measures of the joints.
At a distance from the joint scale f, g is set up a vertical line h graduated as shewn
to represent the various heights of heel.
i, Figures 1, 3 and 7, is the angular bar pivotted at j to the board a and marked
with a scale the long lines of which are placed one half size apart and figured as
shewn to represent the various sizes and the transverse lines being provided for
marking the instep girth measures.
The angular bar i is also marked with a scale for the heel-heights marked in
inverse order to the heel-height scale on the base line b, a scale m for heel curves
in all sizes and a scale n for the heights of the legs.
q
At a suitable point upon the angular bar is pivotted one end of a bar o,
Figures 1, 4 and 8 having pivotted to its other end a bar p, Figures 1, 5 and 9,
the free end of which forms a pointer for setting it to the heel-height scale on
the angular bar i. The bars o and p have lines and for marking off the girths
of the heel and ankle respectively. The heel girth scale on the bar o is also
provided with lines & for marking off the measurements at different angles, five for
example, the middle line being used for all ordinary measures, the lines nearer
the instep-girth scale k for low insteps and those nearer the ankle-girth scale on the
bar P for high insteps. The pattern-cutter must exercise his judgment as to which
line he will use.
The ankle
The heel lines & have nothing to do with the sizes.
lines are for use according to size and measure as are also the joint and instep
girth lines.
8
Perforations are provided in the various scales where the different measurements
have to be marked and two holes t, u are also provided in the angular bar i at
different heights for a purpose hereinafter described.
Our apparatus or chart is not intended to replace the usual means for making
patterns for factory purposes but as already stated it is designed for making standard
bespoke or to-measure patterns and the positions of the various indicating lines
from size to size have been determined in accordance with the most advanced ideas
of last-makers.
It will be seen by reference to Figure 1 of the drawing that the pivot of the
ankle-bar p representing the ankle joint of the foot is much nearer the front of
the leg than the back as it is, in fact, in the human foot.
If a mark be placed on the back of a person's leg where it is intended to take
the ankle measure and if such person then stand upon his or her toes it will be found
that the distance between the heel and the ankle-joint is decreased. Therefore the
higher the heel the lower must the ankle bar p be placed upon the heel height

page_text: and the measures are then reduced by one half.
The chart (that for example used for cutting women's patterns and shewn in
Figure 1) is then placed upon a sheet of paper and the angular bar i is moved upon
its pivot until the top of the notch at the bottom edge of the bar is at the
required height of heel upon the scale h. The ankle girth bar is then adjusted
to indicate a like measurement upon the heel-height scale of the angular bar i,
care being taken to place the point of the bar p so that it just touches the line w
(as shewn in Figure 1) at the proper point. This causes an automatic adjustment
of the heel measures. With a point or pricker the range of spring for the toe is
then marked on the paper beneath the chart at the junction of the proper vertical
size-line c and oblique spring-line d of the toe-scale; in a similar manner the width
of the toe is marked according to size on the scale e at the side of the toe-scale C, d;
at the joint scale f, g the size is first marked at the base, then the girth at the
junction of the size-line with the required horizontal line g; the size and girth
at the instep-scale k are similarly marked the point or pricker passing through the
cardboard a as well as through the scale; the height of the heel is then marked
on the scale and a mark is also made through the hole u (and cardboard a) which
represents the seat of the heel; the required heel-girth is next similarly marked
with the pricker through the selected line s of the heel-bar o, a mark is made
through the hole t situated just above the pivot of the heel-bar o and a mark is
made (according to size) through the scale in between which marks the heel curve
is afterwards drawn as hereinafter described; the heel-height is marked through
the heel-height scale on the angular bar i to give the inclination or curvature of
ankle both throat and back; then the size is marked through the ankle bar pat
the proper
size line a slot being made in the angular bar to allow the point or
pricker to pass through it, and on the same line the ankle-girth is marked through
one of the girth lines of the ankle-bar; the height of the leg is then marked
through the scale n, a mark is made through the heel-end of the base line b and
the chart is removed from the sheet of paper.
The mark made on the paper through the heel-end of the base line of the
chart is now united by means of a pencil or its equivalent with the mark made
through the base line at the joint-scale f, g. Upon the horizontal line thus drawn
a vertical line is set up with the aid of a set square passing through the ankle-girth
mark this line representing the centre of gravity and allowing of marking the
correct inclination for the front of the leg. At the required angle to the front

page_text: of the leg a line is next drawn cutting the point marked for the height of the leg
and on this line the leg measurement is set off.
The points thus obtained are united by sketching in or by the aid of an old
pattern; the top is shaped according to requirement and the pattern cut out.
Many who are adepts with the knife will doubtless be able to cut without lines
but we do not recommend this being done.
It has been found that with a little practice a pattern can be cut with the aid of our
chart in about three minutes.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we
claim is
The improved apparatus or chart for use in cutting patterns for boots and
shoes, substantially as hereinbefore described and illustrated in the accompanying
drawings.
Dated the 28th day of March 1894.
G. F. REDFERN & Co.,
4, South Street, Finsbury, London, Agents for the Applicants.