Improvements in Button Hole Sewing Machines.
Year: 1896

page_text: PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Button Hole Sewing Machines.
I, THOMAS RICHARD SHILLITO of 89 Chancery Lane, London, W.C., Engineer, do
hereby declare the nature of this invention, a communication to me from abroad by
the Fabrik für Spezialnähmaschinen A.G., (Patente Julius Gutmann) of Zurich,
Switzerland, to be as follows:-
This invention relates to improvements in button hole sewing machines, their
object being to perfect the construction and the operation of such machines in the
manner that the machines are more simple, inore convenient for practical use, and
more reliable in their working, so that a greater amount of work inay be obtained
from them, and the derangements so often occurring in existing machines and
rendering necessary relatively expensive repairs, as much as possible prevented. The
invention specially relates to the arrangement of a cutting mechanism which,
independent of the needle rod or of the devices for operating the same, is actuated
automatically from the catcher spindle, whilst in the machines hitherto in use the
actuation of the cutting mechanism is not automatic, but either by hand or through
being in connection with the needle operating mechanisms, in which latter case the
knife in its function is more or less dependent on said operating mechanisms in the
manner that when any derangement takes place in one part of the same the other
part is always injuriously affected also, and frequent adjustments are necessary, so
that by means of this invention there is, in conjunction with the important
simplification of construction, a more certain action insured. Further, this cutting
mechanisin is so designed that with it an adjustment may be effected of the location
of the knife, corresponding to the position at the time of the cloth or piece of work,
that is to say, the knife is so in connection with its carrier, or the carrier is so
constructed, that the knife may be located at will in all directions or adjusted to the
requirements for the time being; it may be displaced upwardly, downwardly, on all
sides and in the direction of the length of the knife slot in the needle plate,
therefore forward and backward. Such a thorough displacement which guarantees
the exact cutting in all cases, is not practicable in any of the button hole sewing
machines hitherto in use so that in this respect the cutting mechanism of the
invention presents an important improvement.
Further the invention relates to an improved construction of the cloth presser or
clamp and of the slide support carrying it, or of the driving mechanism for the same.
The cloth clamp has a cloth presser composed of two parts, the frame holding these
being hung on the arm of the cloth clamp so as to be capable of turning on a horizontal
pivot and the presser being jointed to the frame in such a way that said presser can
always adjust itself horizontally or so as to correspond with the cloth to be pressed.
The support itself, formed like a cross head slide, is guided direct in the base plate or
in guide parts located helow the same, so that the travel whilst the edge sewing is
being done is effected in the direction of the length of the button hole by a
corresponding displacement of the slide holding the cloth clamp, and the travel in
the bar stitching, which latter stitching is at right angles to the button hole, by a
corresponding displacement of the movable slide like bearer plate of said slide.

page_text: In the accompanying drawings is shewn a button hole sewing machine constructed
in accordance with this invention and in which :-
Fig. 1 is a side view of the machine with the cutting mechanism in the state of
rest position.
Fig. 1 a diagrammatic view of a button hole with hemming.
Fig. 2 an underneath view of the base plate with the mechanisins mounted thereon.
Fig. 3 the same in section on line 3-3 of Fig. 2 with divers mechanisms removed.
Fig. 4 a vertical cross section through the machine on line 4-4 of Fig. 1.
Fig. 5 a similar view on line 5-5 of Fig. 1.
Fig. 6a vertical longitudinal sectional view of the machine with the cutting
mechanism in the operating or cutting position.
Fig. 7 a vertical cross section on line 7-7 of Fig. 6, as seen from the right.
Fig. 8 shews the cutting mechanism with an adjustable knife carrier.
Fig. 9 a vertical longitudinal section of the knife carrier alone, on an enlarged
scale.
Fig. 10 a back view of the same.
Fig. 11 a plan view of the same.
Fig. 12 another form of the same in side view and,
Fig. 13 in front view and,
Fig. 14 in plan view.
Figs. 15 to 18 shew the two part cloth presser, Fig. 15 being a front view, Fig. 16
a plan view, and Figs. 17 and 18 side views of the same.
Figs. 19, 20 (Sheet 2) each shew a part of the cloth presser.
The machine illustrated, is, so far as regards its general construction, such as
effects the zig-zag like hem stitching, by the needle periodically oscillating or being
displaced in a plane parallel to the plane of motion of the ring shuttle S and at
right angles to the driving spindle of the machine, whilst the cloth or the cloth
clamp has communicated to it a movement in a straight line only, which in sewing
the edges of the button hole takes place in the direction of the length of this latter
or parallel to the same, but in the bar stitching of one or both ends, at right angles
to the button hole. It is of course to be understood that the application of the
improvements of this invention is not confined to machines of this system, said
improvements being shewn applied to a machine of such a class merely by way of
example, and may be applied to hatton hole sewing machines of any system with
unimportant modifications of construction such as may be requireil according to
the general arrangement of the particular machine and which do not affect the
principle of the invention.
In th machine shewn, the neelle N has its up and down movement communicated
to it in a known manner from the spindle carried in the machine arm A, through
a crank mechanism K the connecting rod of which is coupled to a crank pin fixed
in the crank disc and is in connection with the needle rod a guided in the guide
bearings (Figs. 1 and 6). For the purpose of obtaining the stated periodical
lateral oscillations or displacements of the needle or needle rod, the guide part 1 is,
in the machine shewn, hung on the machine head Al so as to be capable of oscillating;
it has a projection standing out laterally from the machine head and provided with a
roller against which works a stud located upon the side shaft w driven through gear
wheels 2, 1, said stud causing the oscillating part to oscillate periodically to one
side, whilst the oscillation to the other side is effected by a spring suitably arranged
to act against the oscillating part on the side opposite the stud. The further straight
line travel of the cloth in the sewing of the button hole edges, therefore the
rectilinear movement of the cloth clamp P mounted for this purprise on a slide, is
occasionel by rachet wheel mechanism, the pewl of which operating the rachet
wiel R receives its movement from the spindle through a suitable lever rod.
The wheel R is provided with a heart shaped eam groove compassed of two
symmetrical portions in which engages a lever mechanism that is in connection with a
the cloth clamp slide, so that when the wheel R is turnel, the slide is moved to the
right or left in a straight line, one portion of the heart groove occasioning the left

page_text: hand movement and the other portion the right hand movement. The lever rod trans-
mitting the alternating movement to the pawl r receives its suitable driving stroke from
a cam ring fixed on the spindle wol and provided on its circumference with a curved
cam groove in which engages the free end of a double armed lever 5 mounted to
oscillate on the machine part A2 and to which is attached an adjustable lever rod 74
provided with a slot. To the lower end of this lever rod is jointed a curved
connecting lever 3 which in turn engages the straightly guided rod carrying the
pawl r. In the slot of the rod 4 engages a stud which is seated in the lever 2.5
and is fixed in position by means of a wing nut, whilst the rod embraces with a
guide eye the lower arm of the lever in such a way that the rod accompanies
the oscillations of the lever, that is to say, acting as a two armed oscillating lever
it communicates periodically to the lever a stroke forward and backward the length
of which and therewith also that of the driving pawl may by a corresponding
adjustment upward or downward of the rod on the lever be diminished or
increased, therefore regulated as desired within the given limits (Fig. 4).
The said lever mechanism directed from the cam groove of the ratchet wheel R
and effecting the movement of the cloth clamp in the edge sewing, consists of a
lever ol which engages the cloth clamp slide by being attached to the under surface
of the slide part p so as to be capable of oscillating, and which with its free end takes
into a slot of of the lever of hung upon the base plate G, said lever of enrrying at its
free end a roller o engaging in the cam groove 1. This latter now so directs the
linked levers ol, o, that they open out or extend whereby the fabric clamp slide
is displaced to the left, or that they close or shorten, whereby the slide is drawn to
the right. In Fig. 2 in which this mechanism is shewn in plan, the removed ratchet
wheel is indicated by dotted lines.
The cloth clamp by its oscillating lever P which at one end holds the cloth presser
and at the other end is subject to the pressure of a spring Po, is mounted to oscillate
on lugs p formed on the cloth clamp slide which at each end has a slide part p¹ and
between these two a shallow part p, the parts p being guided in a slide rest 2 fixed
on a plate P2 which is displaceable in a direction at right angles to the movement
of the slide P and consequently forms in conjunction with the latter a cross slide
which operates the travel of the cloth clamp at right angles to the hutton hole edges
when the ends are being bar stitched, and for this purpose is carried between the
guide plates p attached to the underside of the base plate. It has on its underside
near its back edge a projection 7 with a roller 7 projecting into a groove in the
ratchet wheel, and bearing against the inner surface 27 of said groove, is pressed by
the springs p' acting on the plate, said springs being placed over studs fixed in the
plate and bearing on the one hand against the edge of the same and on the other
hand against projections on the base plate. The raised part pe of the surface p² now
effects the forward movement of the plate, with the cloth clamp slide at right angles
to the direction of the movement of the slide, whereupon the roller rolls upwards on
to said raised part whilst the return movement of the plate is effected by the springs
which had been extended by the forward movement, whereupon the roller rolls
downwards. The arrangement is so designed and the working so effected that the
edge sewing and the bar stitching of the button hole is accomplished first with a
movement of the cloth clamp or slide to the left in the direction of the button hole
for sewing the edge 1 (Fig. 1A) then with a movement of the cloth clamp or plate P²
at right angles to the button hole for the bar stitching at the end I, that is to say,
going over from the edge 1 to the edge 2 then with a movement of the cloth clamp
and slide to the right in the direction of the button hole the sewing of the edge 2,
and finally with a return movement of the clamp and of the plate Pat right angles
to the button hole the bar stitching at the end II.
The described construction of the cross slide mechanism and its operative means
is distinguished from the arrangements of previous button hole sewing machines,
which are complicated and therefore frequently requiring repairs, by compendiousnes
and solidity, the guidance and mounting of the cloth clamp slide and the plate carrying
the same as well as the movement of the same in or underneath the base plate, being

page_text: effected in the most simple manner, and so that the usefulness and yield of the
machine is considerably increased.
A further important novel feature is in respect of the arrangement of the cutting
mechanism. This is actuated from the catcher or shuttle spindle w located underneath
the base plate in such a way that it works independently of the needle driving
mechanism and therefore the needle movement is not affected, and vice versa. For
this purpose the rod m' carrying the knife M and its holder m is mounted near the
machine head so as to be displaceable in fixed bearings m² and has a lateral
projection m³ carrying a roller which is embraced by the forked end m* of an oscillating
double lever m, m, hung on the underside of the machine arm, the arm m being
jointed to an oscillating rod m formed at its lower end as a slide m³. Above this
slide the rod m' carries a roller m which in the state of rest position, that is to say,
when the cutting mechanism is not operating, is held on the boss of an excentric
disc by means of the spring ma" which presses against said slide, that is to say, so
long as the roller runs on the boss (during the sewing and bar stitching) the cutting
mechanism is not operating.
So soon as the button hole is finished, that is, when the ratchet wheel It has
performed a complete revolution, the slide is displaced laterally by means of a
mechanism hereinafter described, and so that its roller is forced from the boss i¹ on
to the flat part of the excentric disc and into the groove i thereof, the disc then
turning and acting on the slide until after a revolution the roller is again at the
commencing point of the groove whereupon it is again drawn by the disc down on to
the round boss . The disc by reason of its excentricity will with the roller rising
move the rod m upwards whereby the lever m, n, has such a stroke given it that
the rod ma is lowered and the knife brought into action. On the rod m' is a coil
spring which upon the operation of the knife is placed in tension and, after the
cutting operation when the respective organs have sufficient room for play, springs
back the rod with the mechanisms in connection therewith to the original or state of
rest position.
P
The periodical displacement of the slide we is accomplished by means of an
oscillating bell crank lever L attached to the base plate, the arm of which lever
hears against the slide whilst the other arin l correspondingly recessed bears against
the outer circumference of an annular projection provider on the ratchet wheel R.
Normally, that is to say, in the state of rest position of the mechanism, when the
cutting device is out of operation in the position shewn in Fig. 1, the bell crank lever
takes such a position that the spring mo can hold the slide so far to the left that the
latter slides on the boss or nave, the slide then heing free from the bell crank lever
and not actuated by the same. In the hollow boss of the bell crank lever Lis located
a torsion spring having a tendency to turn said lever with its arm to the right,
therefore so as in the state of rest position to hold the arm pressed against the
circumference of ring 1', but in the latter there is an opening which in the turning
of the wheel comes within reach of the arm l whereby the front pointed part of the
same, by the action of the torsion spring, springs into the opening, whereupon the
lever L has given to it a stroke having for effect the foreing of the roller m over on
to the disc and therewith the actuation of the cutting device. When the opening
has jussed the arm the lever L returns to its original position and the spring m
can at the given time again draw down the roller m" from the disc i and so as to move
the slide we to the left. For limiting the stroke, the arm is provided with an
opening in which engages a stop stud / fixed in the base plate. Further, to the
armis aitached a pawl 7 engaging in the teeth of matchet wheel R for the purpe
of preventing any acidental backward movement of the same and thus to render
impossible any derangement in the working of the various moving inechanisms which
such backward movement might orca-ion.
The transmi sion of motion from the driving spindle w to the catcher or shuttle
spindle e, is effected through a crank mechanism, the upper crank of which
consists of two hinge like parts which embrace the spindle w at the cranked part
loosely or so as to be movable theron. To the crank part à is jointed a rod ¹ forined

page_text: with a slot & and serving as a connecting rod both for the upper and the lower crank,
and which by its slot is guided slide like on a guide piece h' capable of rotating and
mounted on a stud or bolt 3 fixed in the side of the machine fraine.
This rod has
at its botton end an eye embracing a stud which serves as a crank pin and is
adjustable along a slide way he formed in the lower crank h. By correspondingly
adjusting said stud in the slide way the length of stroke of the lower crank may be
changed or regulated.
The cloth presser T (Figs. 15 to 18) hung on the front end of the cloth clamp arm
or double lever P, is constructed in two parts and has a supporting frame from
which the frame like pressure t' forming the foot of the cloth clamp, is suspended,
The frame t composed of an upper bar and of two side arins t° has a horizontal pivot ta
by which it may turn or oscillate in the vertical plane in a corresponding eye at the
end of the front arm of lever P', whereby a sheet spring attached to the eye
underneath the upper bar of the frame limits the turning movements or oscillations
of the cloth presser. The presser bracket or frame t¹ is hung on the arms to of the
frame t in such a way that it can always adjust itself horizontally or corresponding to
the level of the cloth to be firmly held. It is, as usual, provided at its bottom edges
with serrations or the like for gripping the cloth. It is formed in two parts 1, 2,
(Figs. 19, 20) which are held together by suitable springs t, &, hung on the frame t
so as to bear against arm like extensions of said parts. For the purpose of forming
this connection, the one spring t' acts from above on the extension of the part 15,
whilst the other spring similarly acts on the extension 10 of the part . Both parts
have suitable end rims or shoulders 11, 12, 13, 14, which overlap one another and each
pair of overlapping rims has one provided with a stop edge 15 or 10 for the other
rim. In this way the cloth clamp as a whole, as well as the presser separately, can
adjust itself to correspond exactly to the location of the work piece or fabric for the
time being. Especially the presser or the described parts of the same can spring to
some extent away from one another, or each part can separately adjust itself obliquely,
which is of great advantage, as the cloth is not always smooth but frequently crumpled
on both sides of the button hole, this, with ordinary single part cloth pressers causing
the pressure to tilt. The construction of the cloth presser of several adjustable parts
independent of one another, for which a suitable design is shewn in the drawing by
way of example, is adapted to remedy said disadvantage and consequently the
usefulness and handiness of the machine is considerably augumented.
The details shewn in Figs. 8 to 14 have reference to means for regulating the
position of the knife, two methods of attaining this object being shewn by way of
example, for a knife support of the kind adjustable on all sides and in all directions,
As regards the method of construction shewn in Figs. 8 to 11 the support D is
adapted to be drawn like a slide. It consists of three parts, viz.; the support part
seated on the rod ml and formning the frame and holder for the slide; the slide; and
the peculiar knife holder or knife head which holds the sheet shaped knife M.
The support piece d has a sleeve like part d' split open and adapted to be firmly
fixed on the round rod m by means of a clamping screw d. On this part d' and at
right angles thereto is formed a part serving as a frame for the slide d', said part d
having at its front end a recess d which affords room for play to the upwardly
projecting shaft d of the knife holder, when the slide is displaced. The knife.
holder is clamped by its shaft d' in the sleeve d of the slide d, said sleeve being
tightened up by a screw 7. By means of the screw the slide is fixed in the
position required for the time being, a slot in the slide allowing room for the
displacement of the same. The thin knife M is fixed in the knife holder 10 by
ineans of the press plate and screw d.
It is obvious that this construction renders the adjustment of the knife practicable
in all directions. By displacement of the slide, the distance of the knife from the
axis of the rod, may be regulated. The round shaft d' and the round rod, that is
the method of lounting the knife holder in the slide support and the method of
attaching the support to the rod m' permits all lateral adjustment and any alteration
required in the height of the cutting surface,

page_text: In the construction shewn in Figs. 12 to 14 the support is not extensible, but, with
a view to simplicity and cheaper production, instead of the slide frame (³ and the
slide d³, has a fixed arm do in one piece with the clamping sleeves d', d". Otherwise
the construction is substantially the same as in the previously described support and
has the same adjustability with the exception that the length of the support arm
cannot be varied.
The practicability of regulating the knife is of extreme importance for the proper
action of the cutting arrangement. In earlier machines in which the support is fixed,
that is, not displaceable or is not displaceable in all directions, the working is
frequently deranged and the knife damaged because the latter by reason of wear,
bending, and the like, ceases to register with the corresponding slit in the base plate
and no means are available for effecting adjustments in the position of the knife.
The adjustable supports herein described and shewn, which inay of course be yet
further modified in the details of their construction, according to requirements or
taste, are consequently adapted to insure the proper function of the cutting
mechanisms of button hole sewing machines, and therewith, like the previously herein
described novel features to generally and considerably increase the handiness and
yield of work of the machine.
It has further to be mentioned that naturally the cutting device may, without
prejudice to its automatic action, be actuated at any time by hand by pressing on the
knob m whereupon, with a corresponding movement of the other mechanisms, the
rod m¹ descends and the knife brought to perform a cut. So soon as the cut has been
made or when the pressure is removed from the knob, the rod with the knife
naturally springs upwards again to its original position, therefore, derangements of
the automatic action of the cutting mechanism do not greatly affect the function of
the machine, seeing that it is always practicable to actuate said mechanism by hand
and in this likewise there lies an important advantage of the present arrangement as
compared with older constructions.
Dated this 26th day of November 1896.
THOMAS R. SHILLITO,
89 Chancery Lane, London, W.C.
I, THOMAS RICHARD SHILLITO, of 89 Chancery Lane, London, W.C., Engineer,
do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be
performed, a communication to me from abroad by the Fabrik für Spezialnähmaschinen
A.G., (Patente Julius Gutmann) of Zurich, Switzerland, to be as follows :-
This invention relates to improvements in button hole sewing machines, their
object being to perfect the construction and the operation of such machines in the
manner that the machines are more simple, more convenient for practical use, and
more reliable in their working, so that a greater amount of work may be obtained
from them, and the derangements so often occurring in existing machines and
rendering necessary relatively expensive repairs, as much as possible prevented. The
invention especially relates to the arrangement of a cutting mechanism which,
independent of the needle rod or of the devices for operating the same, is actuated
automatically from the catcher spindle, whilst in the machines hitherto in use the
actuation of the cutting mechanism is not automatic but either by hand or through
being in connection with the needle operating mechanisms, in which latter case the
knife in its function is more or less dependent on said operating mechanisms in the
manner that when any derangement takes place in one part of the same, the other

page_text: part is always injuriously affected also, and frequent adjustments are necessary, so
that by means of this invention there is, in conjunction with the important
simplification of construction, a more certain action insured. Further, this cutting
mechanism is so designed that with it an adjustment may be effected of the location
of the knife, corresponding to the position at the time, of the cloth or piece of work,
that is to say, the knife is so in connection with its carrier, or the carrier is so
constructed, that the knife may be located at will in all directions or adjusted to
the requirements for the time being; it may be displaced upwardly, downwardly, on
all sides, and in the direction of the length of the knife slot in the needle plate,
therefore forward and backward. Such a thorough displacement which guarantees
the exact cutting in all cases, is not practicable in any of the button hole sewing
machines hitherto in uso so that in this respect the cutting mechanism of the
invention presents an important improvement.
Farther the invention relates to an improved construction of the cloth presser or
clamp, and of the slide support carrying it, or of the driving mechanism for the same.
The cloth clamp has a cloth presser composed of two parts, the frame holding these
being hung on the arm of the cloth clamp so as to be capable of turning on a
horizontal pivot and the presser being jointed to the frine in such a way that said
presser can always adjust itself horizontally or so as to correspond with the cloth to
be pressed. The support itself, formed like a cross heard slide, is guided direct in the
bise plate or in guide parts locate 1 below the same so that the travel whilst the edge
sewing is being done is effected in the direction of the length of the button hole by
a corresponding displacement of the slide holding the cloth clamp, and the travel in
the bar stitching, which latter stitching is at right angles to the button hole, by a
corresponding displacement of the movable slide like bearer plate of said slide.
In the drawings, left with the Provisional Specification, is shewn a button hole
sewing machine constructed in accordance with this invention and in which :-
Fig. 1 is a side view of the machine with the cutting mechanism in the state of
rest position.
Fig. 1a diagruntnatic view of a button hole with hemming.
Fig. 2 an underneath view of the base plate with the mechanisms mounted
thereon.
Fig. 3 the same in section on line 3-3 of Fig. 2 with divers mechanisms
removed.
Fig. 4 a vertical cross section through the machine on line 4-4 of Fig. 1.
Fig. 5 a similar view on line 5--5 of Fig. 1.
Fig. Ga vertical longitudinal sectional view of the machine with the cutting
mechanism in the operating or cutting position.
Fig. 7 a vertical cross section on line 7-7 of Fig. 6, as seen from the right.
Fig. 8 shews the cutting mechanism with an adjustable knife carrier.
Fig. 9 a vertical longitudinal section of the knife carrier alone, on an enlarged
scale.
Fig. 10 a back view of the same.
Fig. 11 a plan view of the same.
Fig. 12 another form of the same in side view and,
Fig. 13 in front view and,
Fig. 14 in plan view.
Figs. 15 to 18 shew the two part cloth presser, Fig. 15 bring a front view, Fig. 16
a plan view, and Figs. 17 and 18 side views of the same.
Figs. 19, 20, (Sheet 2) each shew a part of the cloth preser.
The machine illustrated, is, so far as regards its general construction, such as effects
the zigzag like hem stitching, by the needle periodically oscillating or being displaced
in a plane parallel to the plane of motion of the ring shuttle S, and at right angles
to the driving spindle of the machine whilst the cloth or the cloth clamp has
communicated to it a movement in a straight line only, which in sewing the edges
of the button hole, takes place in the direction of the length of this latter or
parallel to the same, but in the har stitching of one or both ends, at right angles to

page_text: the button hole. It is of course to be understood that the application of the
improvements of this invention is not confined to machines of this system, said
improvements being shewn applied to a machine of such a class merely by way of
example, and may be applied to button hole sewing machines of any system with
unimportant modifications of construction such as may be required according to
the general arrangement of the particular machine and which do not affect the
principle of the invention.
In the machine shewn, the needle N has its up and down movement communicated
to it in a known manner from the spindle w carried in the machine arm A, through
a crank mechanism K the connecting rod & of which is coupled to a crank pin fixed
in the crank disk k and is in connection with the needle rod n guided in the guide
bearings n¹ (Figs. 1 and 6). For the purpose of obtaining the stated periodical lateral
oscillations or displacements of the needle or needle rod, the guide part n¹ is, in
the machine shewn, hung in the machine head A' so as to be capable of oscillating;
it has a projection standing out laterally from the machine head and provided with
a roller against which works a stud located upon the side shaft w driven through
gear wheels a, e, said stud causing the oscillating part to oscillate periodically to one
side whilst the oscillation to the other side is effected by a spring suitably arranged
to act against the oscillating part on the side opposite the stud. The further straight
line travel of the cloth in the sewing of the button hole edges, therefore the
rectilinear movement of the cloth clamp P mounted for this purpose on a slide is
occasioned by a ratchet wheel mechanisin the pawl of which operating the ratchet
wheel R receives its movement from the spindle w¹ through a suitable lever rod.
The wheel R is provided with a heart shaped cam groove composed of two
symmetrical portions in which engages a lever mechanism that is in connection with
the cloth clamp slide, so that when the wheel R is turned, the slide is moved to the
right or left in a straight line, one portion of the heart groove occasioning the left
hand movement and the other portion the right hand movement. The lever rod
transmitting the alternating movement to the pawl r receives its suitable driving
stroke from a cam ring fixed on the spindle w¹ and provided on its circumference
with a curved cam groove 70 in which engages the free end of a double armed
lever mounted to oscillate on the machine part A2 and to which is attached an
adjustable lever rod 4 provided with a slot. To the lower end of this lever rod
jointed a curved connecting lever y which in turn engages the straightly guided
rod carrying the pawl r. In the slot of the rod y engages a stud r which is seated
in the lever and is fixed in position by means of a wing nut whilst the rod embraces
with a guide eye the lower arm of the lever in such a way that the rod
accompanies the oscillations of the lever, that is to say, acting as a two armed
oscillating lever it communicates periodically to the lever a stroke forward and
backward the length of which and therewith also that of the driving pawl may by a
corresponding adjustment upward or downward of the rod on the lever be
diminished or increased, therefore regulated as desired within the given limits
(Fig. 4).
is
The said lever mechanism directed from the cam groove r¹ of the ratchet wheel R
and effecting the movement of the cloth clamp in the edge sewing, consists of a
lever of which engages the cloth clamp slide by being attached to the under surface
of the slide part 2 so as to be capable of oscillating, and which with its free end
takes into a alot o of the lever o hung upon the base plate G, said lever o
carrying at its free end a roller o engaging in the cam groove ¹. This latter
so directs the linked levers ol, o, that they open out or extend, whereby the cloth
clamp slide is displaced to the left, or so that they close or shorten, whereby the
slide is drawn to the right. In Fig. 2 where this mechanism is shewn in plan, the
removed ratchet wheel is indicated by dotted lines.
The cloth clamp by its oscillating lever P which at one end holds the cloth presser
and at the other end is subject to the pressure of a spring p", is mounted to oscillate on
luga p formed on the cloth clamp slide which at each end has a slide part pl and
between these two, a shallow part p, the parts p' being guided in a slide rest fixed

page_text: on a plate P' which is displaceable in a direction at right angles to the movement of
the slide P and consequently forms in conjunction with the latter a cross slide
which operates the travel of the cloth clamp at right angles to the button hole
edges when the ends are being bar stitched, and for this purpose is carried between
the guide plates attached to the underside of the base plate. It has on its
underside near its back edge a projection p5 with a roller p projecting into a
groove in the ratchet wheel, and bearing against the inner surface p' of said groove,
is pressed by the springs p" acting on the plate, said springs being placed over
studs fixed in the plate and bearing on the one hand against the edge of the
same and on the other hand against projections on the base plate. The raised
part of the surface p now effects the forward movement of the plate with the
cloth clamp slide at right angles to the direction of the movement of the slide,
whereupon the roller rolls upwards on to said raised part whilst the return movement
of the plate is effected by the springs 7 which had been extended by the forward
movement, whereupon the roller rolls downwards. The arrangement is so designed
and the working so effected that the edge sewing and the bar stitching of the button
hole is accomplished first with a movement of the cloth clamp or slide to the left in
the direction of the button hole for sewing the edge 1 (Fig. 1A) then with a movement
of the cloth clamp or plate P at right angles to the button hole for the bar
stitching at the end I, that is to say, going over from the edge 1 to the edge 2, then
with a movement of the cloth clamp and slide to the right in the direction of the
button hole the sewing of the edge 2, and finally with a return movement of the
clamp, and of the plate P at right angles to the button hole, the bar stitching
at the end II.
The described construction of the cross slide mechanism and its operative means is
distinguished from the arrangement of previous button hole sewing machines, which
are complicated and therefore frequently requiring repairs, by compendiousness and
solidity, the guidance and mounting of the cloth clamp slide and the plate carrying
the same as well as the movement of the same in or underneath the base plate, being
effected in the most simple manner, and so that the usefulness and yield of the
machine is considerably increased.
A further important novel feature is in respect of the arrangement of the cutting
mechanism. This is actuated from the catcher or shuttle spindle w2 located
underneath the base plate in such a way that it works independently of the needle
driving mechanism and therefore the needle movement is not affected, and vice versa.
For this purpose the rod m¹ carrying the knife M and its holder or support m is
mounted near the machine head so as to be displaceable in fixed bearings m and has
a lateral projection m³ carrying a roller which is embraced by the forked end m' of an
oscillating double lever m³, ma, hung on the under side of the machine arm, the
arı m being jointed to an oscillating rod m7 formed at its lower end as a slide m".
Above this slide the rod m' carries a roller m° which in the state of rest position,
that is to say, when the cutting mechanism is not operating, is held on the boss of
an eccentric disc i by means of the spring me which presses against said slide, that is
to say, so long as the roller runs on the boss (during the sewing and bar stitching)
the cutting mechanism is not operating.
So soon as the button hole is finished, that is, when the ratchet wheel R has
performed a complete revolution, the slide is displaced laterally by means of a
mechanism hereinafter described, and so that its roller is forced from the boss ¹ on
to the flat part of the excentric disc and into the groove 2 thereof, the disc then
turning and acting on the slide until, after a revolution, the roller is again at the
commencing point of the groove, whereupon it is again drawn by the disc down on
to the round boss ¹. The disc by reason of its excentricity will, with the roller
rising, move the rod m' upwards whereby the lever m, m, has such a stroke given it
that the rod m¹ is lowered and the knife brought into action. On the rod m¹ is a
coil spring m0 which upon the operation of the knife is placed in tension and,
after the cutting operation when the respective organs have sufficient room for play,
B

page_text: springs back the rod, with the mechanisms in connection therewith, to the original
state of rest position.
The periodical displacement of the slide m is accomplished by means of an
oscillating bell crank lever L, attached to the base plate, the arm of which lever
bears against the slide whilst the other arm correspondingly recessed, bears against
the outer circumference of an annular projection provided on the ratchet wheel R.
Normally, that is to say, in the state of rest position of the mechanism, when the
cutting device is out of operation in the position shewn in Fig. 1, the bell crank lever
takes such a position that the spring mo can hold the slide so far to the left that
the latter slides on the boss or nave 2, the slide then being free from the bell crank
lever and not actuated by the same. In the hollow boss of the bell crank lever L is
located a torsion spring having a tendency to turn said lever with its arm 2 to the
right, therefore so as in the state of rest position to hold the arm pressed against
the circumference of ring P, but in the latter there is an opening which in the
turning of the wheel comes within reach of the arm whereby the front pointed part
of the same, by the action of the torsion spring, springs into the opening, whereupon
the lever L has given to it a stroke having for effect the forcing of the roller m
over on the disc i and therewith the actuation of the cutting device. When the
opening has passed the arm , the lever L returns to its original position and
the spring m can, at the given time, again draw down the roller m from the
disc and so as to move the slide m8 to the left. For limiting the stroke, the
arm is provided with an opening in which engages a stop stud fixed in
the base plate. Further, to the arm is attached a pawl l' engaging in the teeth of
ratchet wheel R for the purpose of preventing any accidental backward movement
of the same and thus to render impossible any derangement in the working of the
various moving mechanisms which such backward movement might occasion."
The transmission of motion from the driving spindle w to the catcher or shuttle
spindle is effected through a crank mechanism, the upper crank h of which
consists of two hinge like parts which embrace the spindle wat the cranked part
loosely or so as to be movable thereon. To the crank part h is jointed a rod h¹ formed
with a slot A and serving as a connecting rod both for the upper and the lower crank,
and which by its slot is guided slide like on a guide piece h capable of rotating, and
mounted on a stud or bolt ha fixed in the side of the machine frame. This rod has
at its bottom end an eye embracing a stud h7 which serves as a crank pin and is
adjustable along a slide way he formed in the lower crank h'. By correspondingly
adjusting said stud in the slide way, the length of stroke of the lower crank may be
changed or regulated.
The cloth presser T (Figs. 15 to 18) hung on the front end of the cloth clamp arm
or double lever P, is constructed in two parts and has a supporting frame from
which the frame like presser t forming the foot of the cloth clamp is suspended.
The frame composed of an upper bar and of two side arms to has a horizontal
pivot by which it may turn or oscillate in the vertical plane in a corresponding
eye 3 at the end of the front arm of lever P, whereby a sheet spring t, attached to
the eye underneath the upper bar of the frame, limits the turning movements or
oscillations of the cloth presser. The presser bracket or frame t¹ is hung on the
arms of the frame tm such a way that it can always adjust itself horizontally or
corresponding to the level of the cloth to be firmly held. It is, as usual, provided
at its bottom edges with rerrations or the like for gripping the cloth. It is formed
in two parts t, t, (Figs. 19, 20) which are held together by suitable springs f, 8,
hung on the frame t so as to bear against arm like extensions of said parts. For the
purpose ef forming this connection, the one spring acts from above on the
extension to of the part to, whilst the other spring to similarly acts on the extension (10
of the part . Both parts have suitable end rims or shoulders ",,,, which
overlap one another and each pair of overlapping rims has one provided with a
stop edge t, or 10, for the other rim. In this way the cloth clamp as a whole, as
wel as the presser separately, can adjust itself to correspond exactly to the location
of the piece of work or fabric for the time being. Especially the presser, or the

page_text: described parts of the same, can spring to some extent apart, or each part can
separately adjust itself obliquely, which is of great advantage, as the cloth is not
always smooth but frequently crumpled on both sides of the button hole, this, with
ordinary single part cloth pressers causing the presser to tilt. The construction of
the cloth presser of several adjustable parts independent of one another, for which a
suitable design is shewn in the drawing by way of example, is adapted to remedy
said disadvantage and consequently the usefulness and handiness of the machine is
considerably augmented.
The details shewn in Figs. 8 to 14 have reference to means for regulating the
position of the knife, two methods of attaining this object being shewn by way of
example, for a knife support of the kind, adjustable on all sides and in all
directions.
As regards the method of construction shewn in Figs. 8 to 11, the support D is
adapted to be drawn out like a slide. It consists of three parts, viz.; the support
part seated on the rod m¹ and forming the frame and holder for the slide; the
slide; and the peculiar knife holder or knife head which holds the sheet shaped
knife M.
The support piece d has a sleeve like part d' split open and adapted to be firmly
fixed on the round red m¹ by means of a clamping screw d². On this part d¹ and at
right angles thereto is formed a part d³ serving as a frame for the slide d', said
part da having at its front end a recess d which affords room for play to the
upwardly projecting shaft do of the knife holder, when the slide is displaced. The
knife holder do is clamped by its shaft do in the sleeve do of the slide d³, said sleeve
being tightened up by a screw d'. By means of the screw ds the slide is fixed in
the position required for the time being, a slot dx in the slide allowing room for the
displacement of the same. The thin knife M is fixed in the knife holder d¹º by
means of the press plate d" and screw d¹².
It is obvious that this construction renders the adjustment of the knife practicable
in all directions. By displacement of the slide, the distance of the knife from the
axis of the rod may be regulated. The round shaft do and the round rod m¹, that is,
the method of locating the knife holder in the slide support and the method of
attaching the support to the rod m¹ permits all lateral adjustment and any alteration
required in the height of the cutting surface.
In the construction shewn in Figs. 12 to 14 the support is not extensible but with
a view to simplicity and cheaper production, instead of the slide frame d³ and the
slide d', has a fixed arm do in one piece with the clamping sleeves d', do. Otherwise
the construction is substantially the same as in the previously described support and
has the same adjustability with the exception that the length of the support arm
cannot be varied.
The practicability of regulating the knife is of extreme importance for the proper
action of the cutting arrangement. In earlier machines in which the support is
fixed, that is, not displaceable or is not displaceable in all directions, the working is
frequently deranged and the knife damaged because the latter by reason of wear,
bending, and the like, ceases to register with the corresponding slit in the base plate,
and no means are available for effecting adjustments in the position of the knife.
The adjustable supports herein described and shewn, which may of course be yet
further modified in the details of their construction according to requirements or
taste, are consequently adapted to insure the proper function of the cutting mechanisms
of button hole sewing machines, and therewith, like the previously herein described
novel features, to generally and considerably increase the handiness and yield of work
of the machine.
It has further to be mentioned that naturally the cutting device may without
prejudice to its automatic action, be actuated at any time by hand by pressing on
the knob m whereupon, with a corresponding movement of the other mechanisms,
the rod m¹ descends and the knife brought to perform a cut. So soon as the cut has
been made, or when the pressure is removed from the knob, the rod with the knife
naturally springs upwards again to it original position, therefore, derangements of

page_text: the automatic action of the cutting mechanism do not greatly affect the function of
the machine, seeing that it is always practicable to actuate said mechanism by hand,
and in this likewise there lies an important advantage of the present arrangement
as compared with older constructions.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, as communicated
to me by my foreign correspondents, I declare that what I claim is:-
1. In button hole sewing machines, the arrangement of the button hole cutting
mechanism in the manner that it is independent of the needle rod or of the devices
for operating the same, and is actuated automatically from the catcher spindle by
means of suitable actuating mechanism, substantially as described and shewn.
2. In button hole sewing machines in which the button hole cutting mechanism
is actuated automatically from the catcher spindle, the arrangement by which said
mechanism can be actuated by hand without prejudice to its automatic action,
substantially as described and shewn.
3. In button hole sewing machines in which the button hole cutting mechanism
is actuated automatically from the catcher spindle, the arrangement by which said
mechanism is set in action by the displacement of an organ which, before the
commencement or after the completion of the sewing, is acted upon from the
excentric disc that operates the cloth clamp, substantially as described and
shewn.
4. In button hole sewing machines in which the button hole cutting mechanism
is actuated automatically from the catcher spindle, the arrangement by which the
knife, or the rod carrying the knife holder, and mounted in bearings contiguous to
the needle rod is actuated by an oscillating double lever in connection with said rod
and receiving its stroke effecting the descent of the rod from an excentric disc fixed
on the catcher spindle and through an organ connected with the oscillating lever and
acted upon by said disc, substantially as described and shewn.
5. In button hole sewing machines in which the button hole cutting mechanism
is actuated automatically from the catcher spindle, the arrangement by which the
organ which operates the stroke of the oscillating lever in connection with the knife
rod is, during the edge sewing and the bar stitching held out of the range of the
driving excentric fixed upon the catcher spindle, and on the other hand is, before the
commencement or after the completion of the button hole edge sewing, brought by
the organ acted upon by the cam disc which effects the movement of the cloth
clamp, within the range of said driving excentric, substantially as described and
shewn.
6. In button hole sewing machines in which the button hole cutting mechanism
is actuated automatically from the catcher spindle, the arrangement by which the
oscillating lever m, me, of the mechanism receives its stroke for effecting the descent
of the knife rod from a rod which is formed at its lower end as a slide, said rod being
provided with a roller m which through the bell crank lever L is slid on to the
circumference of the excentric disc i whereby said dise in actuating the slide,
occasions the stroke of the oscillating lever and thereby effects the descent of the
knife, substantially as described and shewn.
7. In button hole sewing machines, for the purpose of regulating the position of
the knife, a support serving as a carrier for the knife holder or knife head, which
support is adjustable both laterally and with reference to its height, and in which the
knife holder is so held that it may turn, substantially as described and shewn.
8. In button hole sewing machines, an adjustable support for the knife holder or
knife hend, said support being adapted to be drawn out like a slide in order to change
or regulate as required, the distance of the cutting edge of the knife from the knife,
rod carrying the support, substantially as described and shewn.
9. In button hole sewing machines, a support for the knife holder or knife head,
which by means of a clamping sleeve carried on the same is adjustably attached to a
the round shaft of the knife rod and which support has, for the displacement or

page_text: turning of the knife holder, a clamping sleeve for the attachment of the knife holder
or knife head which is provided with a round shaft, substantially as described and
shewn.
10. In button hole sewing machines, a cross slide or cross support carrying the
cloth clamp and arranged in or underneath the base plate for moving said cloth
clamp in the direction of the edges of the button hole during the edge sewing of the
button hole, and in the bar stitching, for moving said cloth clamp in a direction at
right angles to the direction of the edges of the button hole, substantially as
described and shewn.
11. In button hole sewing machines a cloth clamp consisting of a frame mounted
to turn on the cloth clamp arm and of a cloth pressure hung upon said frame so as
to turn thereon, so that said presser can always adjust itself to correspond with the
level or surface of the cloth, substantially as described and shewn.
12. In button hole sewing machines, a cloth presser consisting of two parts held
together by springs and forming a frame which parts for the purpose of taking over
any unevenness or crumpling in the firmly held cloth can correspondingly adjust
themselves obliquely or spring apart, substantially as described and shewn.
Dated this 10th day of August 1897.
THOMAS R. SHILLITO,
89 Chancery Lane, London, W.C.