Improvement in the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes.
Year: 1895

page_text: Date of Application, 2nd Feb., 1895
Complete Specification Left. 16th Nov.. 1895-Accepted, 21st Dec., 1895
Improvement in the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes.
We, WILLIAM JOSEPH GALE, of Barton Street, Bristol, Boot and Shoe
Manufacturer, HERBERT ORMOND COLLIER, of 7; Stanley Street, Easton Road,
Bristol, Boot Machinist, CHARLES HARRIS, of 95, Twinnell Road, Easton Road;
Bristol, Boot Laster, and FREDERICK JOHN BROWN, of 7, Victoria Pláce,
Greenbank, Bristol, Boot Machinist, do hereby declare the nature of this invention
to be as follows :-
--
This invention which relates to boots and shoes of the kinds technically termed
"sew-rounds" and pumps, that is to say, in which there is no insole, or a partial
insole only such as the heel seat, consists in an improvement in the manufacture
thereof whereby such boots and shoes are not lasted inside out, but with the
outside out, and are fitted to be sewn by a Blake or other similar sole-sewing
machine.
According to this invention the boot or shoe is lasted in the same way as
heretofore with respect to boots and shoes designed to be sewn by a Blake.or
similar sole-sewing machine, except that a temporary insole is used which is with-
drawn in whole or in part after the boot or shoe has been sewn. The tacks,
which are clinched on the temporary insole, as is usual, are not, according to this.
invention, driven fully home.
The heads of the tacks are cut off after driving.
The temporary insole is sufficiently wide to afford a bearing surface for the
"horn" of the sole-sewing machine but not wide enough to be pierced by the
needle.
Accordingly, the seam which unites the upper and the bottom or outsole is clear
of the insole. The heel seat. may, however, and preferably is large enough to be
caught by the seam.
In that case,
the heel seat is severed from the rest and unsewn part of the insole.
Or the heel seat may also be clear of the seam.
After the boot or shoe has been sewn, the insole is withdrawn and with it the
heel seat in cases where the latter is not designed to take the seam and to remain
in the boot or shoe.
Dated this 1st day of February 1895.
NICHOLAS WATTS,
Bristol, Chartered Patent Agent.
Improvement in the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes.
We, WILLIAM JOSEPH GALE, of Barton Street, Bristol, Boot and Shoe
Manufacturer, HERBERT ORMOND COLLIER, of 7, Stanley Street, Easton Road,
Bristol, Boot Machinist, CHARLES HARRIS, of 95, Twinnell Road, Easton Road,
Bristol, Boot Laster, and FREDERICK JOHN BROWN, of 7, Victoria Place,
© Greenbank, Bristol, Boot Machinist, do hereby declare the nature of this invention
Price 8dl

page_text: and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement:-
This invention which relates to boots and shoes of the kinds technically termed
"sew-rounds and pumps, that is to say, in which there is no insole, or a partial
insole only such as the heel seat, consists in an improvement in the manufacture
thereof whereby such boots and shoes are not lasted inside out, but with the
outside out, and are fitted to be sewn by a Blake or other similar sole-sewing
machine.
According to this invention the boot or shoe is lasted in the same way as
heretofore with respect to boots and shoes designed to be sewn by a Blake or
similar sole-sewing machine, except that a temporary insole is used which is with-
drawn in whole or in part after the boot or shoe has been sewn. The tacks,
which are clinched on the temporary insole, as is usual, are not, according to this
invention, driven fully home. The heads of the tacks are cut off after driving.
The temporary insole is sufficiently wide to afford a bearing surface for the
❝ horn
of the sole-sewing machine but not wide enough to be pierced by the
Accordingly, the seam which unites the upper and the bottom or outsole is clear
of the insole. The heel seat may, however, be-and preferably is-large enough
to be caught by the seam."
66
needle.
"
In that case, the heel seat is severed from the rest and unsewn part of the
insole. Or the heel seat may also be clear of the seam.
After the boot or shoe has been sewn, the insole is withdrawn and with it the
heel seat in cases where the latter is not designed to take the seam and to remain
in the boot or shoe.
Referring to the accompanying sheet of drawings,
Fig. 1 represents a temporary insole a with heel scat a¹ as employed in the
manufacture of boots and shoes according to this invention. The heel seat a¹ is
represented as a separate piece from the insole a. In cases where it is intended
that both the heel seat and the insole shall be removed they may be made in one
piece, but not necessarily so.
Fig. 2 represents the inside of a boot or shoe in which the temporary insole a and
the heel seat a' are placed. In this example it is intended that the heel seat a¹
shall be a fixture in the boot or shoe. The insole may be attached to the heel seat
by a pin or pins or other attachment easily broken or severable. The vertical
sides of the upper bare, for the purpose of clearer illustration, represented in the
drawing as cut away at a short distance above the insole a and heel seat a'. The
boot or shoe is lasted with the outside out in the same way as heretofore customary
with respect to boots and shoes designed to be sewn by a Blake or similar sole-
sewing machine. The tacks by which the insole a is attached in lasting to the
upper bare clinched on the upper face of the insole, but instead of being, as is
usual, driven fully home, they are driven only to such extent as enables them to
be clinched on the insole. The heads are then cut off. The tacks by which
the heel seat a is attached to the upper bare driven fully home and retain their
beads.
After lasting, the boot or shoe is sewn by a Blake or similar sole-sewing
machine; the seam, which is represented in the drawing by the dotted line c, being
made clear of the insole a which is sufficiently wide to support the boot or shoe
during the operation of sewing.
The heel seat al being, as aforesaid, intended, in the example illustrated at
Fig. 2 of the drawings, to remain a fixture in the boot or shoe, is caught, as
at c', by the scam c.
When sewing has been completed, the insole a is pulled out of the boot or
shoe bringing with it the tacks by which it was secured in lasting to the upper b.
The heel seat a¹ remains in the boot or shoe; attachment thereof to the
insole, if any attachment exists, being destroyed or severed in pulling out the
latter. After removal of the temporary insole a, the boot or shoe is ready to

page_text: receive the bottom filling (if not previously inserted) and for subsequent socking
and finishing.
When it is intended that the heel seat shall also be removed, it is sufficiently
narrow to allow the seam made by the sole-sewing machine to be continued round
the heel and in such a case the heel seat is preferably made in one piece with
the temporary insole and like the latter the tacks by which it is secured
to the upper in lasting are not driven fully home and have their heads cut off.
This invention is applicable also to the manufacture of boots and shoes lasted by
bracing as distinguished from lasting with tacks.
After lasting and after sewing in a Blake or similar solc-sewing machine the
bracing is cut away and the temporary insole (and if desired the heel seat also)
taken out.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we
claim is :-
In the manufacture of boots and shoes; lasting them with the outside out,
either by tacks or otherwise, to a temporary insole (and, if desired, a temporary
heel seat) then sewing to a permanent sole or to permanent soles by a Blake sole-
sewing or like sole-sewing machine, the seam thereby made being clear of the
temporary insole (and also of the heel seat if the latter is also temporary) and
finally withdrawing the temporary insole (and the heel seat, if the latter is also
temporary) the heads of the lasting tacks having been cut off prior to sewing,
substantially as hereinabove described.
Dated this 12th day of November 1895.
NICHOLAS WATTS,
Bristol, Chartered Patent Agent.