IMPROVEMENTS IN DYEING
Year: 1844

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, MOSES
POOLE, of Lincoln's Inn, in the County of Middlesex, Gentleman, send
greeting.
WHEREAS Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date at West-
minster, the Twenty-first day of March, in the seventh year of Her reign,
did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the said
Moses Poole, Her especial licence, full power, sole privilege and authority,
that I, the said Moses Poole, my exors, adññiors, and assigns, or such others as 1,
the said Moses Poole, my exors, adñiors, or assigns, should at any time agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times during the term of
years therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within England, Wales, and the Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, the
Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN DYEING," communicated to me from abroad;
in which said Letters Patent is contained a proviso that I, the said Moses
Poole, shall cause a particular description of the nature of the said Invention,'
and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be inrolled in Her said
Majesty's High Court of Chancery within six calendar months next and
immediately after the date of the said in part recited Letters Patent, as in
and by the same, reference being thereunto had, will more fully and at large
appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said
Moses Poole, do hereby declare that the nature of the said Invention, and the

page_text: manner in which the same is to be performed, are fully described and ascer-
tained in and by the following statement thereof, that is to say:-
The Invention in Dyeing and Coloring Fabrics consists of a mode of
preparing coloring matters by mixing them with oils, alchol, essences, and
spirits, and applying them as will be afterwards described. The injurious
effect that oily or fatty substances have upon fabrics is too well known to need
any description here, at the same time oils are often used to clean fabrics that
have been injured by grease by completely impregnating them, and treating
them afterwards by appropriate means, the oils acting in such cases by dis-
solving the fatty matters. It is well known also that several essences are
employed for the purpose of removing grease from stuffs, the peculiar property
of which essence is to dissolve the greasy matters; but to obtain this result it
is necessary that they should be highly rectified, otherwise the resinous matters
that they may still contain would have a very prejudicial effect upon the fabrics
operated upon. The coloring matters with which fabrics suitably prepared to
retain the color should not adhere to such parts of the fabric that are required
to be impregnated with fatty material, or be placed near enough so as to
imbibe them sufficiently to produce injury to the fabric. It is considered of
the greatest importance thoroughly to clean fabrics that are to by dyed. It is
well known that silk, when in a heated state, will not take so large a quantity
of coloring matter as when in a cold state, and also that silk loses its softness
and often its solidity when kept for any length of time in liquid at the boiling
poiut; fabrics may receive color in two entirely different operations. The
first is by using colors soluble in water by combining the whole of the fabrics
under the influence of mordants and colors soluble in particular vehicles. This
is what constitutes dyeing, and the coloring matter may be placed upon any
particular part of the fabrics in a thick state, such as Indian fabrics or silk
handkerchiefs. Fabrics that are dyed for clothes for the furniture of rooms
and ribbons for ladies' dresses lose, after a time, their brightness of color; the
beauty of them often depends upon their color, and when that is gone the
value of it is destroyed, and their substance is so injured that the fabric may
be easily torn; in many cases these fabrics are redyed, but they seldom, if
ever, succeed in getting them to their original appearance, and care is required
in selecting such colors as will combine with the original color of the fabrics,
thus, blue and yellow combined will make a green, red and a violet. But in
all cases where a fabric is redyed the color that it is dyed must be darker than
the original one. After several experiments I have discovered the following
means-The first method I propose to employ is to dilute in an essence cr
oil coloring matters, some of which are soluble, or at least may be chemically

page_text: separated. Second, to dilute the insoluble coloring substances in alcohol or
in a mixture of alcohol and essence or oily material, and to apply them in
one or the other case upon the fabrics according to the means that I shall
afterwards describe. In order to give to the fabrics a softness and pliability I
prepare them by submitting them to baths of alkali or soap mixed with
linseed oil in the proportion of ninety-two grains to two pounds of spirit, and
when thoroughly dry they are in a fit state to be dyed; this process may also
be repeated after the fabric is dyed, but but it is not necessary.
I have given the above general description in order that the nature of the
Invention may be thoroughly understood.
First, I will describe the process of dyeing or coloring fabrics by im-
mersing them in liquids. I dilute the coloring matters that I intend
to use in the essence of turpentine, having been previously purified of
all the deleterious matters which it contains, and I then immerse the
fabrics into this solution several times according to the depth of color
In some cases I submit
required and the nature of the fabric being colored.
the fabric first to the essence of turpentine, and allow it to remain there some
days until it is thoroughly impregnated, and take care that it penetrates
uniformly throughout the whole of the fabric, but this operation may be varied
according to the nature of the fabric to be operated upon. I would remark
that in all cases when using the coloring matter prepared as above that I use
it in a cold state. The fabric, when finished, should be exposed to the air,
when the smell from the turpentine will go off.
Second, I will now describe the mode of applying by hand the coloring matters
on one or both sides of the fabrics. The fabric to be colored being stretched and
fixed upon a table of marble or other suitable material, I cover over the surface
of one or both sides of the fabric, or such parts that are required to be
colored with the coloring matter or the color diluted with the suitable
vehicle, with a brush or other suitable instrument, and repeat the operation
until the coloring matter is applied in sufficient quantity. Third, I will
now describe the mode of applying the coloring matter by mechanical
means. In order to expedite the process and make the work more regular,
I employ rollers acting in opposite directions, between which I
fabrics, and I put on the coloring matter diluted by a suitable vehicle by a
brush or other suitable instrument. Planks of board or metal may be used
upon which the fabrics are pressed, or in some case I use a plank and roller,
and by passing the roller over the plank the coloring matter is caused to
penetrate into the fabrics. Any organic or mineral colors may be used
according to the brightness of color that I may wish to obtain.
pass
the
Cloth and

page_text: other substances may be employed for the object that I propose. And in certain
cases it may perhaps be proper to prevent the color or colors from adhering to
or from penetrating into certain parts of the fabrics. I place in such parts a
cover, the employment of which is well known in this branch of industry.
When it is desired to remove the color from fabrics or to decrease the tint of
any color, I use the means that are generally used in coloring fabrics. I would
remark, that when operating upon articles that have been previously dyed,
before they are redyed they should be thoroughly cleaned.
In conclusion, I would remark that, although I have mentioned turpentine
as the spirit I prefer to mix with the coloring matters, I do not confine myself
to that, nor do I limit myself to any particular mode of carrying out the
Invention so long as the particular character is retained.
But I claim the mode of coloring or dyeing fabrics by the use of coloring
matters diluted with spirits, essences, with oily or fatty matters, or with
alcohol, either alone or mixed with the oily matters, whether operating upon
the whole or part of the surface of the fabric, and also to fabrics that have
been previously dyed, so that the brightness of the color may be restored, and
the fabrics have the appearance of new ones.
In witness whereof, I, the said Moses Poole, have hereunto set my hand
and seal, this Eighteenth day of September, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and forty-four.
AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the Eighteenth day of September,
in the year of our Lord 1844, the aforesaid Moses Poole came before our said
Lady the Queen in Her Chancery, and acknowledged the Specification afore-
said, and all and every thing therein contained and specified, in form above
written. And also the Specification aforesaid was stamped according to the
tenor of the Statute made for that purpose.
Enrolled the Twentieth day of September, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and forty-four.