IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY FOR SEWING EMBROIDERING AND FOR MAKING CORDS OR PLATS
Year: 1848

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME I JEAN
MARIE MAGNIN of Ville franche (Rhone) in the Kingdom of France Advocate
Bend greeting.
WHEREAS Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria by Her
Royal Letters Patent under the Great Seal of the United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland bearing date at Westminster the Ninth day of February
One thousand eight hundred and forty-eight in the eleventh year of Her
reign did for Herself Her heirs and successors give and grant unto me the said
Jean Marie Magnin my exors admors and assigns Her especial licence
full power sole privilege and authority that I the said Jean Marie Magnin
my exors admňors and assigns or such others as I the said Jean Marie
Magnin my exors admors or assigns should at any time agree with and
no others from time to time and at all times during the term of years
therein expressed should and lawfully might make use exercise and vend
within England Wales and the Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed the Invention
of "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY FOR SEWING EMBROIDERING AND FOR MAKING
CORDS OR PLATS" partly invented by myself and partly communicated by
Barthelmy Thimmonnier of Amplepuis (Rhone) a Foreigner resident abroad
in which said Letters Patent is contained a proviso that I the said Jean
Marie Magnin should cause a particular description of the nature of the
said Invention and in what manner the same is to be performed by an
instrument in writing under my hand and seal to be inrolled in Her Majesty's
High Court of Chancery within six calendar months next and immediately
84437-1.

page_text: after the date of the said in part recited Letters Patent as in and by the same
reference being thereunto had will more fully and at large appear.
NOW KNOW YE that in compliance with the said proviso I the said
Jean Marie Maguin do hereby declare that the nature of the said Invention
and the manner in which the same is to be performed are fully described and
ascertained in and by the following statement thereof reference being had
to the Drawings hereunto annexed and to the figures and letters marked
thereon that is to say.-
The Invention consists of a combination of mechanical parts into a machine
as herein-after described. And in order that the Invention may be most
fully understood and readily carried into effect I will proceed to explain the
Drawings hereunto annexed in the various Figures of which the same letters
are used to indicate similar parts.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.
The nature of the various Figures of the Drawings being written thereon it
will not be necessary to repeat the same here. a is a needle or hook the size
of which is larger or smaller according as the thread employed is coarse or
fine. The needle is fixed in the stem a' which is of larger diameter than
the needle as shewn and the needle when for making cords is rounded as
shewn at Figure Z. The stem of the hook a is fixed in the tube 6 by means
of the set screw 6¹ the stem of the hook passing down through the tube b.
At the lower end of the tube 6 is formed a screw to receive a screw nut 6*
and above the nut 6 outside of the tube b is a tube c with a screw or worm
formed on the outside on this tube is the nut c¹ which can be screwed up or
down so as to adjust the position of the needle. The nut c¹ is received into
the end of the forked bar d as shewn and a screw e is passed through the
forked bar and received into a vertical groove in the tube c so as to prevent
the tube c turning whilst it is capable of being raised higher or lower with
respect to the forked bar d by the screw c¹ in order to vary the length of the
loops obtained. When the forked arm is raised or lowered the hook a will
be raised or lowered. The forked bar d is bent downward at right angles into
the stem which descends through the socket d* below the machine and is
worked by a treadle, as hereafter explained and in order to guide the upper
end of the stem d¹ a portion of it rises through the fixed socket which
socket also acts as a stop to prevent the stem d rising too high and the
hollow socket fis capable of adjustment on to the upper part of the frame or
case of the machine. Under the forked bar dis fixed a projection d³ which
in its descent comes against the sliding piece which passes partly through an
g

page_text: opening in the front of the case and rests on a spring which tends at all
times to force it upwards. is a tube on the stem of the needle a such tube
being formed with a thread or screw on its outside to some extent of its length
as is shewn. Near the upper part of this tube / is screwed a tube /¹ the
upper part of the tube being formed into an enlargement or flanch which
rests on a ring on the sliding piece g.
On the lower end of the tube / is
screwed the tube 4 having a corresponding enlargement or flanch to that
which is on the tube and it will be understood that the screw on the
outside of the tube allows of the parts and being correctly adjusted.
Between the enlargement or flanch on the tube and the under side of the
ring i of the sliding piece 9 is a spring which at all times tends to keep these
parts separated. On the lower end of the tube / is screwed a hollow nipple
through which the hook or needle can readily move up and down.
It will be seen on examining the above described parts in the Drawings that
on the needle or hook being caused to descend the tube / will be forced down
also till the lower end of the nipple comes down on to the one or two thick-
nesses of fabric held by the workman on the table and the hook a will pass
through such fabric or fabrics the end of the nipple pressing on the fabric so
as to prevent movement thereof till the hook a passes back again and in case
there be no fabric there will be only a looped cord produced in
prefer to use the needle Figure Z. At the back of the stem
rack of four teeth which take between studs j on the barrel
containing a coiled spring so arranged as to have a tendency to lift the stem
such case I
is formed a
such barrel
and parts connected therewith and to the lower end of the stem dis
attached a link which connects the stem with the treddle hence the
workman by the simple act of depressing the treddle with his foot causes the
hook to pass through the fabric or fabrics on the table and by releasing the
treddle the parts are raised by the spring barrel just described. k is a link
the upper end of which moves on a fixed axis ¹ and the lower end of such
link k is attached by a pin joint to the connecting rod as shewn and on
the surface or edge of the link k is formed a notch which when the sliding
piece g has been forced down comes above it and acts as a stop to prevent its
being raised by its spring till the proper moment when the link is withdrawn
by the connecting rod / being drawn back by the lever m to which such con-
necting rod is attached by a pin joint and such lever is brought into action in
the following manner The lever m turns upon an axis m' affixed to the
framing and at one end it is formed into a catch m² which is pressed on by
the spring m³ so as at all times to tend to force it down and take hold of the
sliding plate n. On the axis of the spring barrel j³ is fixed a finger or lever o

page_text: so that when the barrel is turned as above explained the end of the finger or
lever o will enter a slot or opening in the plate n and force it back as is
indicated by dotted lines in one of the Figures of the Drawings and in doing
so motion will be communicated to the rotatory thread carrier pin the following
manner p¹ is a cord which is passed round the outer circumference of the
barrel of the thread carrier and made fast thereon and such cord then passes
under the pulley p² and is made fast around the pulley 9 on the axis q' the
object of which axis will be hereafter explained. The pulley p² is carried by
the platen hence when that plate is slided it will give motion to the barrel
p so as to cause it to pass the thread around the stem of the needle and the
thread is constantly kept tight by a spring as well as by the means hereafter
explained. In commencing to use the machine I pass the instrument Figure
Y through the hole B in the table B' in an angular direction thence through
the hollow barrel of the thread carrier p and lay the thread upon the hook of
the instrument Figure Y and then by raising the instrument Figure Y I
draw up the end of the thread through the hollow barrel then by causing
the hook or needle a to descend and the barrel p to be turned the thread
passes into the hook or eye of the thread carrier and will be laid around the
needle which must then be raised to bring the thread through the hole through
which the needle has descended and supposing the workman to be sitting in
front of the machine he will cause the thread to lie to the right of the hole by
fixing the end in a slit in the guide or otherwise he will then place the fabric
or fabrics on the table so that the needle in descending will pass through at
the proper place then in continuing the movement of the apparatus the
hook or needle will be caused to descend and in its descent it will take hold of
the thread and carry up the stitch or loop thereby produced and in again
descending the needle or hook will descend through such loop last produced
and will the next time of coming up bring up a new loop and draw such new
loop through the one previously made hence there will be at all times one
loop on the needle. The nature of the thread carrier and the hook are shewn
on an enlarged or magnified scale by one of the Drawings in the various
positions those instruments and the parts working therewith will assume in
producing a stitch.
1 will now shortly explain the course of movements through which such
parts pass (after the thread has been brought through the hole through which
the needle passes) by which the workman will the more readily adjust the
various parts of the machine so as to produce the desired result. No. 1 shews
the needle or hook at its highest position before commencing to work so as as to
sew together two pieces of fabric 8 8 the end of the thread which is indicated

page_text: by a red line is brought up and lies on the upper surface of the table on which
the fabrics are held by a workman. On movement being communicated to the
needle or hook by the means above described the needle or hook will enter
the fabric as shewn at No 2 and it will by continuing the movement be
caused to descend through the fabrics and through the table as shewn by
No. 3 when the lower end of the nipple will have arrived so as to press on the
fabrics on the table and there such nipple will be held as above explained the
needle or hook will continue to descend and a revolution will be communi-
cated to the thread carrier as indicated by No 4 by which the thread will be
placed around the stem of the needle or hook as shewn after which the needle
will ascend and carry up the thread forming a loop through the fabrics the
nipples going up by which the parts will assume the position No. 5 which
corresponds with No. 1 and the only difference is that a loop of the thread is
now on the needle or hook and on the needle or hook again going through the
course of movements just described it will descend through another place in the
fabric a distance from the other depending on the length of loop brought up the
fabrics being moved from the position shewn a distance equal to the length of
stitch (produced by the distance which the point a rises from the fabric) before
the needle or hook again descends and the next loop of the thread will be brought
up through the fabrics and through the previous loop and so on continuously.
t is a bobbin on which the thread to be used is wound it is held securely on
the conical axis t¹ which is supported upon the axis this axis at one end
turns on a point the other end being formed with a concave cup which
receives the convex surface and point the bearing being constantly pressed
forward by the spring as shewn. The hollow conical axis is connected
to the axis in the following manner is a fine spiral spring attached at
one end to the spindle and at the other end to the screw nut which has a
thread or screw upon it which fits into a female screw within the conical axis
and connecting these parts together by which means aided by the spring r
the thread will in being unwound be constantly subject to tension and be
kept from hanging slack. It should be stated that the thread carrier is
brought back by a coiled spring in the box p³ and such turning back of the
thread carrier takes place immediately on the needle passing up through the
fabric at the time the hook enters the nipple. The plate n and piece 9 are
released by the screw j* coming against the lever m so as to force it back
which allows the spring of the thread carrier to turn it back and the nipple to
move up. In order that the needle or hook a may pass through a hole but
little larger than itself I have formed the machine with several such holes
suitable to the different sizes of needles employed these holes are formed in

page_text: a plate A which turns in a recess in the frame B¹ and is connected to another
plate A¹ on the under side. The frame A¹ is formed with teeth which are
taken into by the teeth of a pinion A on the axis A³ on which is affixed
another pinion A' which is taken into by the pinion A" on the axis A' on the
outer end of which is formed a thumb piece A' by turning which in either
direction the plate A will be turned so as to bring the required hole under
the point of the needle. The frame B' is formed with projecting pieces B¹
which are guided by the cross piece C and by the parts D of the framing so
that the frame B¹ may be slided to and fro to bring the piece A correctly
under the needle. This sliding motion is produced by means of the thumb-
screw B³ which passes into the cross piece C. E is a guide to guide the work
while the work is being passed along under the needle but in place of this
guide a guide F shown at Figure X may be used it consists of a piece
of leather or other suitable flexible material with points and it is to be
placed on the fabric to be ornamented or sewn in the direction in which the
sewing or ornamenting is to take place the points passing into the fabric or
fabrics. In this case the guide F in being used will be slided against the
point of the nipple. Fig. G is an instrument by which I cut the last loop of
the work by causing the point to enter the last loop and then by moving it
so as to bring the part G¹ which is formed with a knife edge against the
thread the thread will be cut.
In the above description I have only treated the movements as if the fabrics
were to be continuously moved in a straight or curved line for sewing or
stitching one or more fabrics with a tambour stitch but as it is desirable that
the work should in some cases be made in curved lines without the necessity
of turning the whole fabric I have applied means of changing the direction of
the needle so that the direction of the succeeding stitches may be laid in
curved lines without requiring that the whole fabric should be moved in the
direction of the curved work which is being produced.
I will now describe the means of causing the apparatus to assume the
proper positions for following curved lines on a fabric or fabrics. On the
axis q' is affixed a bevilled toothed wheel q' which takes into and drives the
bevilled toothed wheel ³ affixed to the tube * on the inside of which and in
the direction of the length of which is formed a groove to receive a stud pro-
jecting from the side of the tube 6 so that the tube 6 may be capable of rising
and falling with the needle and at the same time be controlled to turn with
the pinion is a cord which passes around the axis q' so that that axis
may be caused to move round and gradually bring the needle or hook to
follow the desired curve on the fabric or fabrics and as it is necessary that the

page_text: thread carrier should assume the same relation or position at all times to the
needle or hook as it does when sewing in straight lines as shewn and
described this is accomplished by the pulley a moving the thread carrier by
the cord p¹ each time that the needle is caused to turn partly round by which
the proper relation between the thread carrier and the needle or hook will be
obtained. The cord v descends to the stirrup z which is retained in any
position by the rack w and spring catch a and the workman when he wishes
to move the needle partly round so as to follow a curved line moves the stirrup
by his left foot sideways so as to release it from one of the catches and allow it
to rise or descend a distance of one or more catches which puts the axis q¹
in motion and makes it perform a portion of a rotation.
Having thus described the nature of the Invention and the means of perform-
ing the same I would remark that I do not claim any of the parts separately of
which the machine is composed nor do I confine myself to the details shewn
provided the peculiar character of the Invention be retained but what I claim
is the combining a needle or hook a nipple and thread carrier and parts
working therewith so as to operate together as described.
In witness whereof I the said Jean Marie Magnin have hereunto set
my hand and seal this Fifth day of June in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and forty-eight
J. M. (L.B.) MAGNIN.
AND BE IT REMEMBERED that on the Fifth day of June in the year
of our Lord 1848 the aforesaid Jean Marie Magnin came before our said
Lady the Queen in Her Chancery and acknowledged the Specification afore-
said and all and every thing therein contained and specified in form above
written. And also the Specification aforesaid was stamped according to the
tenor of the Statute made for that purpose.
Enrolled the Ninth day of August in the year of our Lord One thou-
cond sight hundaad and