Improvements in Weaving Elastic or Corded Fabrics..
Year: 1887

page_text: Date of Application, 1st Mar., 1887
Complete Left, 18th Nov., 1887
Complete Accepted, 20th Dec., 1887
Improvements in Weaving Elastic or Corded Fabrics..
I WILLIAM LAPWORTH of Hopedale' in the State of Massachusetts in the United
States of America but at present of 55 Chancery Lane in the County of Middlesex,
Engineer do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:
This invention has for its object the production of an elastic or corded fabric
composed of fibrous warps, rubber or cord warps and a weft, the fibrous warps being
on one side of the weft for five picks and then on the opposite side thereof for five
picks, and the rubber or cord warps being on the opposite sides of the weft at
alternate picks, a fibrous warp crossing from one side of the weft to the other with a
rubber or cord warp at each pick, the said fabric being thus twilled alike on both
sides and each rubber or cord warp being bound alike, or bound in with a fibrous
warp crossing the weft therewith, at every pick, substantially as will be described.
A harness-frame carrying some of the fibrous warps, is raised or lowered with the
rubber or cord warp each time it is moved by its harness-frame.
In order to facilitate apprehension of the invention I will proceed to give an
illustration of successive movements to effect my object.
The fibrous warp threads which for distinction I will denominate A other threads
being marked respectively B C D & E will be carried, like designated threads by
themselves, in the heddles of five separate harness-frames which may be as commonly
used in any ordinary loom for weaving elastic fabrics, the rubber or cord warps
being carried by the heddles of a sixth harness-frame.
Referring for illustration to a set of threads arranged in a suitable manner and
supposing there be present the first pick of the pattern called a ten time motion, or
one requiring ten picks to complete it, & the warp A to be up, but it will be down
for the second to the sixth pick inclusive, rising for the seventh to the tenth pick and
remaining up for the first repeat.
In the next position the threads B will be up and remain up for the second and
third picks going down for the fourth to the eighth picks inclusive, and rising for the
ninth and tenth.
The rubber or cord warps rise for one and fall at the next pick and vice-versa.

page_text: 1
The warp threads C would be up for the first to the fifth pick inclusive, and down
for the sixth to the tenth pick inclusive.
The warp threads D are down for the first and second pick, rising for the third to
the seventh pick inclusive, falling for the eighth, ninth, and tenth pick.
The warp threads E are down for the first to the fourth pick inclusive, and up for
the fifth to the ninth pick inclusive, falling for the tenth pick.
Y
In this way a harness-frame containing either the warps A B C D or E will be
raised or lowered at every time that a harness-frame containing the rubber or cord
warps is raised or lowered, and consequently the rubber is bound alike at every pick
which would not be the case were the sheds formed in an eight time motion, for in
such a motion the rubber warp cannot be bound in like manner at every pick as is
necessary to produce a fabric alike at back and front.
In other words in weaving my improved fabric a fibrous warp is changed from one
side of the weft to the other at each pick with a rubber warp, so that the rubber warp
will be bound in by the weft with a fibrous warp which is raised or lowered therewith,
and the rubber warps will thus be bound in like manner, or with a warp which is
changed therewith, at every pick.
To produce a fabric in an eight time motion it will be necessary to separate the
rubber or cord warp so that it will be bound only at every second pick with the
fibrous warp and consequently the rubber is permitted to relax more than is desirable
or preferable when the tension on the fabric is removed..
By these means I am enabled as aforesaid to produce an elastic or corded fabric
composed of fibrous warps, rubber or cord warps, and a weft, the fibrous warps being
on one side of the weft for five picks, and then on the opposite side thereof for five
picks, and the rubber or cord warps being on the opposite sides of the weft at
alternate picks, a fibrous warp crossing from one side of the weft to the other with a
rubber or cord warp at each pick, the fabric being thus twilled alike on both sides and
each rubber or cord warp being bound alike, or bound in with a fibrous warp crossing
the weft therewith at every pick.
1. 1997

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Weaving Elastic or Corded Fabrics..
1
I WILLIAM LAPWORTH of Hopedale in the State of Massachusetts in the United
States of America but at present of 55 Chancery Lane in the County of Middlesex,
Engineer do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement:-
This invention has for its object the production of a firm and durable elastic or
corded fabric wherein the face and back are made chiefly from the warp, and is
twilled alike at both sides, the rubber or cord warp being bound in like manner at
every pick, it rising for one and falling for the next pick, the fibrous warps controlled
by five harness-frames rising for five picks, and then remaining down for five picks,
the pattern being completed in ten picks, the fabric produced being a thick fabric
without binders, the weft being carried by a single shuttle.
A harness-frame carrying some of the fibrous warps is raised or lowered with the
rubber or cord warp each time it is moved by its harness-frame.
Figure 1 in plan view shows a piece of fabric embodying my invention, the warp
and weft being separated to show their crossings, the warp threads shown being
sufficient for two spaces of the usual reed. Figure 2 is a cross section of my improved
fabric at the first shed, it showing the positions of the warps at the first pick of the
pattern. Figures 3 to 11, inclusive, show liko views of the warp-threads for the
remaining nine picks of the pattern; and Figure 12 shows the first pick of the repeat,
it being the same as Figure 2.
The fibrous warp threads a, as well as those marked b, c, d, and e, will be carried,
like designated threads, by themselves in the heddles of five separate harness-frames,
which may be as commonly used in any ordinary loom for weaving elastic fabrics,
the rubber or cord warps r being carried by the heddles of a sixth harness-frame.
Referring to Figure 2, representing the first pick of a pattern called a "ten-time
motion," or one requiring ten picks to complete it, the warp a is up, but it is down
for the second to the sixth pick, inclusive, rising for the seventh to the tenth pick and
remaining up for the first repeat. In Figure 2 the threads bare up, and remain up
for the second and third picks, going down for the fourth to the eighth picks,
inclusive, and rising for the ninth and tenth. The rubber or cord warps rise for one
and fall at the next pick, and vice-versa. The warp threads c are up for the first to
the fifth pick, inclusive, and down for the sixth to the tenth pick, inclusive. The
warp-threads d are down for the first and second pick, rising for the third to the
seventh pick, inclusive, falling for the eighth, ninth, and tenth pick. The warp-threads e
are down for the first to the fourth pick, inclusive, and up for the fifth to the ninth
pick, inclusive, falling for the tenth pick. In this way a harness-frame containing
either the warps a, b, c, d, or e is raised or lowered at every time that a harness-frame
containing the rubber or cord warps is raised or lowered, and consequently the rubber
is bound alike at every pick, which would not be the case were the sheds formed in

page_text: an eight-time motion, for in such a motion the rubber warp cannot be bound in like
manner at every pick, as is necessary to produce a fabric alike at back and front. In
other words, in weaving my improved fabric a fibrous warp is changed from one side
of the weft w to the other at each pick with a rubber warp, so that each rubber warp
will be bound in by the weft with a fibrous warp which is raised or lowered therewith,
and the rubber warps will thus be bound in like manner, or with a warp which is
changed therewith, at every pick.
To produce a fabric in an eight-time motion, it will be necessary to separate the
rubber or cord warp so that it will be bound only at every second pick with the fibrous
warp, and consequently the rubber is permitted to relax more than is desirable or
preferable when the tension on the fabric is removed.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the "nature of my said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
The herein-described elastic or corded fabric, composed of fibrous warps, rubber or
cord warps, and a weft, the fibrous warps being on one side of the weft for five picks,
and then on the opposite side thereof for five picks, and the rubber or cord warps
being on the opposite sides of the weft at alternate picks, a fibrous warp crossing
from one side of the weft to the other, with a rubber or cord warp at each pick, the
said fabric being thus twilled alike on both sides, and each rubber or cord warp being
bound alike, or bound in with a fibrous warp crossing the weft therewith at every
pick, substantially as set forth.
Dated the 17th day of November 1007
WM. BROOKES & SON,
55 & 56, Chancery Lane, London,
Agents for the Applicant.