IMPROVE- MENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF THE FRONTS OR UPPERS OF SLIPPERS, SHOES, BOOTS, AND GAITERS, AND OF MATS; BAGS, FIRE-SCREENS, AND VARIOUS OTHER ARTICLES WHICH ARE USUALLY MADE OF ORNAMENTAL OR BERLIN NEEDLE-- WORK
Year: 1862

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Aaron Lester, of Coventry, in the County of
Warwick, Draftsman and Designer, for the Invention of "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF THE FRONTS OR UPPERS OF SLIPPERS, SHOES,
BOOTS, AND GAITERS, AND OF MATS; BAGS, FIRE-SCREENS, AND VARIOUS OTHER
ARTICLES WHICH ARE USUALLY MADE OF ORNAMENTAL OR BERLIN NEEDLE--
WORK."
Sealed the 24th October 1862, and dated the 26th April 1862.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Aaron Lester at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 26th.
April 1862.
I, AARON LESTER,, of Coventry; in the County of Warwick, Draftsman and
Designer, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS
IN THE MANUFACTURE OF THE FRONTS OR UPPERS OF SLIPPERS, SHOES,- BOOTS, AND
GAITERS, AND OF MATS, BAGS, FIRE-SCREENS, AND VARIOUS. OTHER ARTICLES,. WHICH.
ARE USUALLY MADE OF ORNAMENTAL OR BERLIN NEEDLEWORK," to be as follows:-
My Invention of improvements in the manufacture of the fronts or uppers of:
slippers, shoes, boots, and gaiters, and of mats, bags, fire-screens, and various.
other articles which are usually made of ornamental or Berlin needlework,
consists in weaving the fabric of which the intended article is to be made of, a
pre-arranged pattern or design depending upon and suitable to the form. or
shape. of the article intended to be produced.. For instance, for the front of a

page_text: slipper, shoe, or boot the pattern is to be expressly designed, and woven in
such a form that when the fabric is made up the article will present the
appearance of fine needlework produced by hand. The fabric may be pro-
duced in either silk, wool, cotton, flax, or any suitable fibrous substances,
either alone or in combination.
When imitation Berlin woolwork is to be produced an ordinary canvass
groundwork is to be woven simultaneously with the pattern. Sometimes,
however, the canvas ground may be dispensed with.
It will be understood that the object of the Invention (to whatever useful
purpose the fabric produced may be applied) is to produce by mechanical
means (by the employment of the jacquard or other known contrivances for
producing ornamental patterns) a pattern or device fitted and suitable for the
intended purpose, instead of being obliged to produce such design by hand
labour, as is now the case.
The Invention is, therefore, applicable for producing the ornamental patterns
for backs of chairs or sofa pillows, ottomans, and other articles of furniture,
as well as for boots and shoes, or coverings for the feet and legs.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Aaron Lester, in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 24th
October 1862.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, AARON
LESTER, of Coventry, in the County of Warwick, Draughtsman and Designer,
send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-sixth day of April, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-two, in the twenty-fifth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me,
the said Aaron Lester, Her special license that I, the said Aaron Lester,
my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Aaron
Lester, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree
with and no others, from time to time- and at all times thereafter during the
term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel
Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANU-
FACTURE OF THE FRONTS OR UPPERS OF SLIPPERS, SHOES, BOOTS, AND GAITERS, AND OF
MATS, BAGS, FIRE-SCREENS, AND VARIOUS OTHER ARTICLES WHICH ARE USUALLY MADE

page_text: OF ORNAMENTAL OR BERLIN NEEDLEWORK," upon the condition (amongst others)
that I, the said, Aaron Lester, by an instrument in. writing under my
hand and seal,. should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of
the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed,
and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six
calendar months next and immediately after the date. of the said Letters
Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Aaron Lester, do hereby declare the
nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement (that is to say) :-
My Invention of "Improvements in the Manufacture of the Fronts or Uppers
of Slippers, Shoes, Boots, and Gaiters, and of Mats, Bags, Fire-screens, and
various other Articles which are usually made of Ornamental or Berlin
Needlework," consist in weaving the fabric of which the intended article is to
be made of a pre-arranged pattern or design-depending upon and suitable. to.
the form or shape of the article intended to be produced. For instance, for
the front of a slipper, shoe, or boot the pattern is to be expressly designed to
suit the form of the article intended to be produced, and this pattern "aving
been drawn upon the ordinary draught paper is read off, and the chain of ds
prepared in the manner usually adopted in preparing looms for jacquard
weaving. The fabric is then woven in the piece, with the pattern thereon, in
such a form that when it is made up the article will present the appearance of
fine needlework produced by hand. The fabric may be produced in either
silk, wool, cotton, flax, or any suitable fibrous substances, either alone or in
combination.
When imitation Berlin woolwork is to be produced, an ordinary canvas
groundwork is to be woven simultaneously with the pattern; a canvas warp
and weft being provided for the purpose, as will be well understood by
practical weavers. Sometimes, however, the canvas ground may be dispensed
with.
It will be understood that the object of the Invention (to whatever useful
pur-
pose the fabric, when made, may be applied) is to produce by mechanical means
(by the employment of the jacquard or other known contrivances for producing
ornamental patterns) a fabric with an ornamental pattern or device fitted and
suitable for the intended purpose, instead of being obliged to produce such
ornamental pattern or design by hand labor, as is now the case.
The Invention is, therefore, applicable for producing the ornamental
patterns for backs of chairs or sofas, pillows, ottomans, and other articles of

page_text: furniture, as well as for boots and shoes, or coverings for the feet and legs.
It will be obvious, therefore, that when once a suitable pattern has been
designed, and the chain of pattern cards has been prepared for it, any con-
venient number of articles of the same pattern may be woven in succession in
one piece, and any desired number of duplicates may be produced by the loom.
I would here remark that as no alteration in the construction or working of
the jacquard loom for weaving figured fabrics is required, I have not con-
sidered it necessary to give any drawings of the machinery whereby the object
of my Invention may be effected, as the desired pattern having been designed'
and the chain of pattern cards, or other equivalent mechanism for operating
the pattern warp threads having been prepared, the fabric may be woven
in any of the ordinary constructions of jacquard loom such as are employed
for weaving Kidderminster carpets or other figured fabrics.
upon
Having now described my Invention and the manner of carrying the same
into effect, I claim as the Invention secured to me by Letters Patent, as
aforesaid, the mode herein set forth of manufacturing the fronts or uppers of
slippers, shoes, boots, and gaiters, and of mats, bags, fire-screens, and various
other articles which are usually made of ornamental or Berlin needlework.
In witness whereof, I, the said Aaron Lester, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Twenty-second' day of October, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-two.
Witness;
THOMAS BALL DUSSON,
AARON LESTER (L.S.)
38, Victoria Street,
Coventry.
No. 2, Court 4', Bishop Street,
Coventry.