IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF HOOPED SKIRTS
Year: 1859

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Sparks Thomson,. of New York, in the
United States of America, but now of St. Martin's-le-Grand, London,
Skirt Manufacturer, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE
MANUFACTURE OF HOOPED SKIRTS," partly a communication from abroad by
William Wilmot, of New York, in the United States of America.
Sealed the 7th October 1859, and dated the 18th May 1859.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Sparks Thomson
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on
the 18th May 1859.
FI, WILLIAM SPARKS THOMSON, of New York, in the United States of
America, but now of St. Martin's-le-Grand, London, Skirt Manufacturer, do
hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE
MANUFACTURE OF HOOPED SKIRTS," to be as follows:-
The object of this Invention is to connect together the tapes and hooks of
hoop skirts, and also to connect by metal fastenings the ends of the steel ribs
which form the hoops, so that they may be either permanently fixed or
rendered adjustable to vary the diameter of the boops.
To connect the hoops to the tapes I weave loops in the tapes at given
distances apart, through which the steel ribs are to be passed; or I apply to
the tapes at given distances apart a metal fastening by means of an eyelet

page_text: attachment, and these metal fastenings I cause to clasp the steel ribs or hoops.
Or when narrow tapes are used, I prefer to employ a fastening stamped out
of sheet metal of the form of the letter I, the projections of which lap round
the steel rib or hoop, while the long parallel edges bend over the edge of the
steel, and hold the tape firmly in contact therewith. For connecting the
ends of the steel ribs so as to form them into hoops, I use a metal clip, which,
being lapped over the ends by pressure, will bind them securely together.
When, however, the hoops are required to be adjustable in diameter; I attach
to the extremities of the steel ribs a metal cap, which is fitted with a tongue
or wedge piece, and over the lapping ends of the steel I bend two sliding
clips. These clips, when pressed up towards the ends of the ribs, will effec-
tually prevent the ribs from slipping and extending, or contracting the
diameter of the hoop by reason of their binding tightly over the ribs, but
when pushed inwards or towards each other, and-free of the wedges, the clips
will allow of the hoops being diminished or enlarged in diameter, as may be
desired. The like arrangement I propose to apply to the steel hoops which
form the bustle or inner skirt, and are intended to fit the person, and by their
connection with the front of the outer skirt give that skirt the required
backward set.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said William Sparks Thomson in the Great Seal Patent Office
on the 12th November 1859.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, WILLIAM
SPARKS THOMSON, of New York, in the United States of America, but now
of Saint Martin's-le-Grand, London, Skirt Manufacturer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Thirteenth day of May, in the. year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-nine, in the. twenty-second year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the
said William Sparks Thomson, Her special license that I, the said 'William
Sparks Thomson, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others
as I, the said William Sparks Thomson, my executors, administrators, and
assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others; from time to time
and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and
lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of
Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention

page_text: for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF HOOPED SKIRTS," being partly
a communication from William Wilmot, of New York, in the United States of
America, upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said William Sparks
Thomson, by an instrument in writing under my hand and seal, should
particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and
in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to
be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next
and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said William Sparks Thomson, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to
be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement, reference being had to the Drawing hereunto annexed,
and to the letters and figures marked thereon (that is to say):-
This Invention relates, firstly, to improvements in the mode of con-
necting together the supporting tapes and the hoops of hooped skirts, the
object being to simplify and otherwise, improve the manufacture; and,
secondly, the Invention relates to the junction, by means of metal fastenings,
of the ends of the steel ribs which form the hoops, so that they may be either
permanently secured together, or connected in a manner that will permit of
the diameter of the hoops being varied at pleasure.
In the accompanying Drawing I have shewn in several views the means
proposed for carrying out these objects: Figures 1 shew in side and edge
views a simple, mode of, connecting together the hoops and supporting tapes.
This mode consists in using double-wove tape or tape woven with loops on
one face after the well-known manner of weaving double fabrics, which loops
occur at given distances apart, and are of just sufficient length to receive the
steel strips or ribs which are to form the hoops. These strips having been
plaited over in the usual way, and cut to the required length,. are passed
through the loops of the series of tapes which form the supports for the
elastic hoops in such a manner as to bring the two ends of the respective strips
together, and they are then connected together (by preference in the way
hereafter described) to form hoops.
Another mode of effecting a secure connection between the supporting tapes
and hoops is shewn at Figures 2, which represent in front, back, and edge
views a connected tape and strip, the attachment being made. by a metallic
clip fitted with an eyelet fastening. This fastening is shewn detached at
Fig. 3; it is made of sheet brass, stamped out into a form somewhat resem-
bling the letter H, with an eyelet hole struck through the cross bar. The
attachment of this fastening to, the tapes is effected in the usual manner of

page_text: applying eyelet fastenings, and the projecting ends of the fåstening are then
bent over the edges of the steel rib or hoop so as to clasp it firmly.
When narrow tapes are used, I prefer to employ a fastening stamped out
of sheet metal of the form of the letter I, as shewn at Fig, 4, the distance
between the projections being determined by the width of tapes used in
forming the skirt. These projections I lap round the steel strip or hoop,
having first placed the tape between the strip or hoop and the fastening, and
the long parallel edges being at the same time slightly bent over or towards
the edge of the steel, the tape will be firmly held in contact therewith, as
shewn at Figures 5, which represent this fastening in front, back, and edge
views as applied to a portion of a skirt. Fig. 6 shews in elevation, and
Fig. 7, in plan view, a skirt formed with the aid of the metallic fastening just
described.
In order to connect the ends of the steel ribs or strips rigidly together so as
to form them into hoops, I use a metal clip, which, being lapped over the ends
by pressure, will bind them securely together. This clip may be made in a
variety of forms, but I prefer that shewn at Figures 8, which, having lapping
ends for the strips to abut against, will when applied effectually prevent the
ends from slipping past the fastening, and thereby contracting the diameter of
the hoops. When the hoops are required to be made adjustable in diameter,
I attach to the extremities of the steel ribs a metal cap, which is fitted with a
tongue or wedge piece, as shewn at a, Figures 9. Over the lapping ends of
the steel I bend two sliding clips, b, b, which, when pressed up towards the
ends of the ribs, will effectually prevent the ribs from slipping and extending,
or contracting the diameter of the hoop by reason of their binding tightly
over the ribs. By simply pushing these clips 6 inwards or towards each other,
and free of the wedges, the lap of the strips forming the hoops may be readily
increased or diminished, and the diameter of the hoops enlarged or contracted
as desired.
The like arrangement I propose to apply to the small steel hoops which
form the bustle or inner skirt, as shewn in the plan and elevation of the
improved skirt, Figures 6 and 7, to which the adjustable fastening is applied.
The use of the adjustable fastening for connecting the ends of these small
hoops will be found a material improvement, when it is remembered that they
are intended to fit the person, and by their connection with the front of the
outer skirt give that skirt the backward set which is deemed essential to the
securing of a graceful and elegant figure.
:
Having now set forth the nature of the Invention of improvements in the
manufacture of hooped skirts, which has in part been communicated to me

page_text: from abroad, and explained the manner of carrying the same into effect, I
wish it to be understood that, under the above in part recited Letters Patent,
I claim,―
First, the means herein described of supporting the metallic hoops of
skeleton skirts in position.
And, secondly, connecting together the ends of the metallic strips or ribs
which form the hoops of the inner and outer skirts respectively as described,
so that the dimensions of the hoops may be fixed or adjustable at pleasure to
suit the requirements of the wearer.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Sparks Thomson, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, the Twenty-fourth day of October, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-nine.
WILLIAM SPARKS THOMSON. (L.S.)

page_text: In the Matter of Letters Patent granted to William Sparks Thomson
for the Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OP HOOPED
SKIRTS," bearing date the 13th day of May 1859 (No. 1204).
DISCLAIMER AND MEMORANDUM OF ALTERATION proposed to be
filed in the Great Seal Patent Office by the said WILLIAM SPARKS
THOMSON, pursuant to the Statutes in that case made and provided.
WHEREAS the claims as made in the said Specification are too wide, and
do not ascertain with sufficient precision the nature of my Invention, in con-
sequence whereof I, the said William Sparks Thomson, wish to disclaim and
alter, and do hereby disclaim and alter by a Memorandum of Alteration the
following parts of my Specification which describe or relate to the use of
double wove tapes, or tapes with loops, and the fastenings used with narrow
tapes, and also the junction by means of metal fastenings of the ends of the
steel ribs which form the hoops, in manner following, that is to say:-In the
fourteenth line of the third page of the printed copy of my said Specification
I strike out the word "firstly," and I also strike out the remainde of the said
paragraph commencing with the words "the object," at the
fifteenth and commencement of the sixteenth lines of the said
end of the
page to the

page_text: words in the twentieth line "at pleasure," and after the words "several
views" in the twenty-first line of the said page I insert the words "modes of
connecting and supporting hoops, and in Figs. 2 & 3," and after the word
"means" at the end of the same line I insert the words "I adopt," and I
strike out the word "proposed" at the commencement of the twenty-second
line in the same page, and after the words "carrying out " in the same line I
insert the words "my Invention," and I strike out the remainder of the
paragraph commencing from the words "these objects" to the words "form
hoops," and in the thirty-third line of the said page. I strike out the word
Another," and substitute the word "The" in lieu thereof, and in the fourth
page I strike out the paragraphs commencing at line 3 with the words
"when narrow," and ending at the thirty-seventh line with the words
elegant figure," and in the fifth page I strike out the word "First" in the
fourth line, and after the word "position" in the fifth line I add the words
"by securely connecting the tapes thereto by means of eyelet fastenings,"
and I strike out the paragraph commencing in the sixth line with the words
"And secondly," and ending with the words "the wearer."
66
66
66
And the said Specification, when amended as proposed by me by Disclaimer
and Memorandum of Alteration, will read as follows:-
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, J, WILLIAM
SPARKS THOMSON, of New York, in the United States of America, but now
of Saint Martin's-le-Grand, London, Skirt Manufacturer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent bearing date the Thirteenth day of May, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and fifty-nine, in the twenty-second year of Her reign,
did for Herself, Her heirs and successsors, give and grant unto me, the said
William Sparks Thomson, Her special license that I, the said William Sparks
Themson, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the
said William Sparks Thomson, my executors, administrators, and assigns,
should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all
times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might
make, use, exercise, and vend within the United Kingdom of Great Britain
and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for " Im-
PROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF HOOPED SKIRTS," being partly a communi-
cation from William Wilmot, of New York, in the United States of America,
upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said William Sparks Thom-
son, by an instrument in writing under my hand and seal, should particularly
describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner

page_text: the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great
Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the
date of the said Letters Patents.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said William Sparks Thomson, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to
be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the fol-
lowing statement, reference being had to the Drawing hereunto annexed, and
to the letters and figures marked thereon (that is to say).:
This Invention relates to improvements in the mode of connecting together
the supporting tapes and the hoops of hooped skirts.
In the accompanying Drawing I have shewn in several views modes of
connecting and supporting hoops, and in Figs. 2 and Fig. 3 the means I adopt
for carrying out my Invention.
The mode of effecting a secure connection between the supporting tapes
and hoops is shewn at Figures 2, which represent in front, back, and edge
views a connected tape and strip, the attachment being made by a metallic
clip fitted with an eyelet fastening. This fastening is shewn detached at
Fig. 3; it is made of sheet brass, stamped out into a form somewhat
resembling the letter H, with an eyelet hole struck through the cross bar. The
attachment of this fastening to the tapes is effected in the usual manner of
applying eyelet fastenings, and the projecting ends of the fastening are then
bent over the edges of the steel rib or hoop so as to clasp it firmly.
Having now set forth the nature of the Invention of improvements in the
manufacture of hooped skirts, which has in part been communicated to me
from abroad, and explained the manner of carrying the same into effect, I
wish it to be understood that under the above in part recited Letters Patent
I claim the means herein described of supporting the metallic hoops of
skeleton skirts in position by securely connecting the tapes thereto by means
of eyelet fastenings.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Sparks Thomson, have here-
unto set my hand and seal, the Twenty-fourth day of October, in
the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-nine."
"WILLIAM SPARKS THOMSON.
(L.S.)"
WILLIAM SPARKS THOMSON. (L.S.)"
In witness whereof, I, the said William Sparks Thomson, have here-
unto set my hand and seal, this Fourteenth day of December, in the
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-three.
WILLIAM SPARKS THOMSON. (L.S.)

page_text: To the Commissioners of Patents for Inventions.
I hereby grant my fiat, giving leave to the above-named William Sparks
Thomson to file in the Great Seal Patent. Office, with the Specification to
which the same relates, the above-written Amended Disclaimer and Memo-
randum of Alteration marked "A," and to which I have placed my initials.
R. P. COLLIER,
Temple,
Solicitor General.
January 1st, 1864.