IMPROVEMENTS IN LAPPET OR EMBROIDERING Looms
Year: 1869

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Edward Newton, of the Office for
Patents, 66, Chancery Lane, in the County of Middlesex, Civil
Engineer, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN LAPPET OR
EMBROIDERING Looms."-A communication from abroad by Nelson
Kingsland Adams, of South Orange, in the State of New Jersey,
United States of America.
Sealed the 4th February 1870, and dated the 27th September 1869.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Edward
Newton at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his
Petition, on the 27th September 1869.
I, WILLIAM EDWARD NEWTON, of the Office for Patents, 66, Chancery
Lane, in the County of Middlesex, Civil Engineer, do hereby declare
the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN LAPPET OF
EMBROIDERING LOOMS," to be as follows:-
This Invention consists in the adaptation of the lappet loom to
producing not only a better class of work, but also to the weaving of
large and flowing figures such as are suitable for the borders of gored

page_text: skirts or dresses. These figures may either be woven on the body of the
garment or woven separately.
The figures produced by the lappet loom have heretofore been very
limited in their longitudinal section, owing to the fact that in all lappet
looms actuated by power the stitch motion has been an adjunct of the
pattern mechanism, both the stitch and the pattern being generally
made by the lappet wheel, the scope of which was necessarily limited.
In adapting the loom to a class of work requiring a large circular or
irregular figure it has been found necessary to separate the stitching
mechanism from the pattern mechanism in order that the pattern
mechanism might have scope sufficient for the pattern desired. For this
purpose the two mechanisms are actuated by different powers or from
different shafts by connecting them with the same power, but through
intermediate gearing or other suitable attachment, so as to give each
mechanism a motion distinct from the other.
The present Invention consists in supplying the "whip" yarns to the
needles in definite adjustable quantities without tension.
The peculiar motion required for the formation of the embroidered
figure in a lappet loom is obtained from the operation of the pattern
mechanism, which is placed upon the stud which forms the axis of the
lay sword. Two toothed wheels are placed side by side on the same axis
and have intermediate gearing; they are moved by the movement of the
lay itself. As the lay rocks back and forth these wheels and their stand
rock with it, the required motion being given by the action of the sliding
pawl, which is fastened to the floor or frame of the loom, and is adjusted
to take as many teeth in the ratchet wheel as may be wanted. If but
one tooth is required the slide catch is adjusted so that the catch will
slide out for the whole distance of the stroke of the lay except one tooth,
allowing the ratchet wheel to go with the lay until the slide is stopped by
the pin which holds the ratchet during the remainder of the stroke. As
the lay rocks back the slide slips back by its own weight, or, if necessary,
a spring may be attached to insure its coming back. If it is desirable
to take two or more teeth the slide is adjusted accordingly. Upon the
ratchet wheel is a raised rim, upon which are fastened the stitch swells
or teeth, which must be in proportion to the number of teeth in the
ratchet. If it is desirable to make a stitch movement at every pick
(the pawl being set for one tooth) there must be one swell to two
ratchet teeth, if for every two picks one swell to four ratchet teeth,

page_text: and so on. The swells are arranged with slots and fastened with screws,
so that they can be adjusted (as to weight) to make stitches of unequal
lengths. The swells may also be arranged on a chain instead of on the
rim of a wheel, thereby giving greater scope to the principle of varying
the pattern by using stitches of different lengths. Upon the side of the
ratchet wheel is placed a concentric row of pins, which give motion to
the spur wheel, the stud of which passes through the stand, and is there
made fast to a pinion, which in turn moves the pattern wheel. The
spur wheel may be changed for a larger or smaller one whenever it is
necessary to alter the speed of the pattern wheel, in which case larger
or smaller circles of pins must be arranged accordingly. Whenever the
figure is formed partly by the adjustment of the swells to different
heights it will obviously be necessary that one revolution of the
pattern wheel should be equal to some number of complete revolutions
of the stitch wheel. The stand, which is part of a disc, is made fast to
the shaft by a key or steady pin, but so as to slide on the key or steady
pin, and this stand by its frictional contact with the stitch wheel holds
it from slipping when not positively moved. The sleeve has a vertical
stand or projection, in which is a slot to receive a stud, which is the
fulcrum of a lever which bears against the pattern rim. By the action
of a spring a traverse bar and everything attached to it is drawn
towards the other end of the lay. The pattern rim is movable, and is
attached to the pattern wheel by screws. As the pattern revolves its
projections push out the lever and its depressions allow it to come back,
thereby giving the needles the motion which makes the figure on the
cloth. By raising or lowering the fulcrum of the lever a greater or less
traverse is given to the needles. The lever passes at its upper end into
a slot or bracket in the traverse bar, giving it the outward motion;
the inward motion is caused by a spring or weight. The stitch move-
ment is caused by the stitch bar, the lower arm of which is lifted by
the movement of the teeth or swells of the pattern wheel. The upper
side of this arm raises the heel of the stitch lever and throws out its
upright arm. To this arm is attached a steel wire either round or flat,
which has a turn around a pulley, and when the lever is at rest the wire
does not bind the pulley so tightly but that it will allow the pulley to
slide in the bight of the wire without revolving, but as the lever is
drawn back it tightens its hold on the pulley so much as to cause it to
revolve sufficiently to move the traverse bar as much as is necessary to
form the stitch without interfering with its motion in shaping the

page_text: figure. This wire is attached at its other end to a spring so adjusted as
to be at rest when the stitch bar is down. The stitch itself is formed by
the lateral movement given to the needles by the stitch gear. As the
needles on the needle bar fall down below the warp the stitch move-
ment throws the needles under one or more threads of the warp, so that
when the needles rise again and the shuttle goes under the whip yarn
it forms a stitch. The needles then drop, are thrown again the other
way under one or more threads of the warp, and then up as before.
The stitch motion may be made at every stroke or every two or more
strokes of the lay according to the adjustment of the swells and the
pawl. The yarn is put on a beam, or on spools or bobbins; a wire
faller or some equivalent arrangement is placed so as to take up the
slack and keep the yarn straight; it then passes between friction
rollers, and thence to the needles. The rollers are covered with some
material sufficiently adhesive to hold the yarn from slipping; they are
moved laterally by upright arms on the traverse bar, so that the yarn
is always directly under the needles. The lower roller slides on a square
shaft, which revolves in bearings fixed to the sword, so that the traverse
bar moves the rollers with the needles. The upper roller is a friction
roller moved by the lower one.
A certain definite quantity of yarn is
furnished to the needles without tension or irregularity, and the stitch is
always uniform. It is necessary that the quantity of whip yarn thus
furnished to the needles should be susceptible of variation and adjust-
ment. This is effected by a double wedge bar working vertically in the
rack, drawing it out or pushing it in as the double wedge moves up and
down. When the bar rises the inclination of the wedge drawą the
rack towards the breast beam and gives the spur teeth more action, and
of course causes the rollers to take up more yarn, leaving less for the
stitch. Reversing the motion gives out more yarn for the stitch. This
wedge bar is held in an upright position by bearings attached to the
loom side. This lower end of the wedge bar is adjusted with a screw,
so that the length of yarn for the stitch can be regulated.
A modification of the above plan is to place the whip yarns on one
roller instead of passing it between two, giving a turn completely around
the roller, which should be covered with sand paper to give it sufficient
adhesion to the yarn.
AL

page_text: traverse than can easily be given to the needles by the above arrange-
ment. When this is the case the border should be woven separately
from the garment and attached afterwards.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said William Edward Newton in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 26th March 1870.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, WILLIAM
EDWARD NEWTON, of the Office for Patents, 66, Chancery Lane, in the
County of Middlesex, Civil Engineer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Twenty-seventh day of September, in
the year of our Lord One thousand eight.hundred and sixty-nine, in the
thirty-third year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors,
give and grant unto me, the said William Edward Newton, Her special
licence that I, the said William Edward Newton, my executors, adminis-
trators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said William Edward
Newton, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time
agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter
during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make,
use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain.
and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for
"INPROVEMENTS IN LAPPET OR EMBROIDERING LOOMS," being a communication
to me from abroad by Nelson Kingsland Adams, of South Orange,
in the State of New Jersey, United States of America, upon the
condition (amongst others) that I, the said William Edward Newton,
my executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my,
or their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe
and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner
the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the
Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and imme
diately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said William Edward Newton, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same
is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement, reference being had to the Drawings here

page_text: unto annexed, and to the letters and figures marked thereon (that is
to say):-
:-
This Invention consists in the adaptation of embroidering looms for
producing not only a better class of work, but also to the weaving of
large and flowing figures such as are suitable for the borders of gored
skirts or dresses. These figures may either be woven on the body of
the garment or woven separately.
The figures produced by the lappet loom have heretofore been very
limited in their longitudinal section, owing to the fact that in all lappet
looms actuated by power the stitch motion has been an adjunct of the
pattern mechanism, both the stitch and the pattern being generally
made by the lappet wheel, the scope of which was necessarily limited.
In adapting the loom to a class of work requiring a large circular or
irregular figure it has been found necessary to separate the stitching
mechanism from the pattern mechanism, in order that the pattern
mechanism might have scope sufficient for the pattern desired. For
this purpose the two mechanisms are actuated by different powers or
from different shafts by connecting them with the same. power, but
through intermediate gearing or other suitable attachment, so as to give
each mechanism a motion distinct from the other.
The present Invention consists in supplying the "whip" yarns to
the needles in definite adjustable quantities without tension.
In the accompanying Drawings Fig. 1 represents an end clevation
of a loom showing the position and connections of one arrangement of
the pattern mechanism; Fig. 2 is a sectional view, the pattern wheel b
and stud a being removed, shewing also the position and connection of
one arrangement of the stitching mechanism; Fig, 3 is a rear elevation of
the lay shewing the position of the needle bar and let off rolls and their
connection with the pattern and stitching mechanism; and Fig. 4 is
an obverse elevation of the same showing the ratchet wheel u and
its position and connection with the pawl Q, the lever n, wedge bar I
and pins W.
The peculiar motion required for the formation of the embroidered
figure is obtained from the operation of the pattern mechanism, which
(in the arrangement shewn in the Drawings) is placed upon the stud T
.which forms the axle of the lay sword C. I do not however wish to

page_text: confine myself to placing the combined stitching and pattern mechanisms
(operating as described) upon this part of the loom.
In carrying out the Invention two toothed wheels U and b are placed
side by side on the same axis and have intermediate gearing; they are
moved by the movement of the lay itself. As the lay rocks back and
forth these wheels and their stand rock with it, the required motion
being given by the action of the sliding pawl Q, which is fastened to
the floor or frame of the loom and is adjusted to take as many teeth.
in the ratchet wheel U as may be wanted. If but one tooth is required
the slide catch is adjusted by the pin R and the moveable bearing S, so
that the catch will slide out for the whole distance of the stroke of the
lay except one tooth, allowing the ratchet wheel to go with the lay until
the slide is stopped by the pin which holds the ratchet during the
remainder of the stroke. As the lay rocks back the slide slips back
by its own weight, or if necessary a spring may be attached to insure
its coming back. If it is desirable to take two or more teeth the
slide is adjusted accordingly. To make this arrangement work properly
it is better that the number of teeth in the ratchet should be such a
number as will be divisible by the number of strokes that the lay
would make in going entirely round and making a complete circle. In
order to correct any lost motion that may occur the bearings of tho
crank arms might be so affixed to the lay that they could be raised or
lowered. Upon the ratchet wheel U is a raised rim, upon which are
fastened the stitching swells or teeth V. These swells must correspond
with the number of teeth in the ratchet U in the proportion of one
to two, one to four, one to eight, &c. If it be desirable to make a
stitching movement at every pick (the pawl being set for one tooth)
there must be one swell to two ratchet teeth; if for every two picks
one swell to four ratchet teeth, &c. The swells are arranged with slots
and fastened with screws so that they can be adjusted as to weight,
thereby admitting of making stitches of unequal lengths. The swells
may be of varied lengths, using a less number and covering any desirable
number of teeth in the ratchet. The swells may also be arranged on a
chain instead of on the rim of a wheel, thereby giving greater scope
to the principle of varying the pattern by using stitches of different
lengths. Upon the side of the ratchet wheel U is placed two concentric
rows of pins W. which give motion to the spur wheel Y. The stud of
this. wheel passes through the stand a, and is there made fast to the

page_text: pinion Z, which in turn moves the pattern wheel b. The spur wheel Y
may be changed for a larger or smaller one whenever it is necessary to
alter the speed of 6, in which case larger or smaller circles of pins must
be arranged accordingly. By the use of the pins W the speed of the
pattern wheel can be varied or an irregular motion can be given, or
it may be kept entirely still by removing a part or all from the pins
from U. Whenever the figure is formed partly by the adjustment of
the swells to different heights it will obviously be necessary that one
revolution of the pattern wheel 6 should be equal to some number of
complete revolutions of the stitching wheel U. The stand a, which
is a part of a disc, is made fast to the shaft T by a key or steadying pin
but so as to slide on the key or steadying pin, and this stand by its
frictional contact with the wheel U holds it from slipping when not
positively moved. This friction is regulated by the nut g, which presses
against the sleeve d which passes through the stand F, thus forming
a bearing for the shaft T and at the same time binding the whole
together. The placing the wheels U and 6 upon the same shaft and
gearing them together or connecting them in any manner so that b
takes its motion from U is purely a matter of convenience and economy
of room, as it is quite easy to arrange them so that they could be
actuated by distinct powers. The sleeve d has a vertical stand or
projection in which is a slot to receive a stud which is the fulcrum
of the lever e. This lever bears against the pattern rim c and is held
in position by the action of a spring attached to the traverse bar M.
which draws the traverse bar and everything attached to it towards the
other end of the lay. The pattern rim c is movable and is attached to
the wheel b by screws. As the pattern revolves its projections push
out the lever e and its depressions allow it to come back, thereby giving
the needles the motion which makes the figure on the cloth. By raising
or lowering the fulcrum of the lever e a greater or less traverse is given
to the needles. The lever e passes at its upper end into a slot or bracket
in the traverse bar M, thereby giving it the outward motion, The
inward motion is caused by a spring or weight. The stitching move.
ment is caused by the stitch bar O, the lower arm of which is lifted
by the movement of the teeth or swells V. The upper side of this arm
raises the heel of the stitch lever P and throws out its upright arm. To
this arm is attached a steel wire either round or flat, which has a turn
around the pulley N. When the lever P is at rest the wire does not
bind the pulley so tightly but that it will allow the pulley to slide in

page_text: the bight of the wire without revolving, but as the lever P is drawn back
it tightens its hold on the pulley so much as to cause it to revolve
sufficiently to move the traverse bar as much as is necessary to form the
stitch without interfering with its motion in shaping the figure. This
wire is attached at its other end to a spring so adjusted as to be at rest
when the stitch bar is down. The bar O and lever P may be varied in
shape or position as practice may show to be desirable. The stitch itself
is formed by the lateral movement given to the needles by the stitching
gear N. As the needles on the needle bar E fall down below the warp
the stitch movement throws the needles under one or more threads of
the warp, so that when the needles rise again and the shuttle goes under
the whip yarn it forms a stitch. The needles then drop and are thrown
again the other way under one or more threads of the warp, and then
up as before. The stitch motion may be made at every stroke or every
two or more strokes of the lay according to the adjustment of the swells
and the pawl Q. The combination of the stitching mechanism and the
pattern mechanism with the other arrangements of the loom may
however be effected in another manner, but in all forms and ways of
carrying out the Invention the back motion is given to the needles by
a weight or spring. For the sake of convenience the traverse bar M
heretofore described may be made shorter, and connected with the
lever e by the use of a chain; and by elevating and depressing this
chain between roller bearings a stitch motion may be made. Also in
connecting the wheels U and b a system of levers and ratchet teeth or
an arrangement of belts and pulleys might be used instead of spur and
pinion wheels. In all lappet looms heretofore the whip or embroidery
yarn has been delivered to the needles from a beam or spools or bobbins,
while the tension has been regulated by friction applied to the beam
or spools or to the yarn itself by sliding plates or otherwise merely to
retain or hold back the yarn, but it has never been found possible to
obtain by such means an uniform delivery; the consequence has been
that the stitch has never been uniform or regular. For this reason
lappet work has always been an inferior class of work. It has long been
seen that if a uniform stitch could be obtained lappet work would rank
with embroidery. This result is obtained by passing the whip yarn
between the friction rollers F. The yarn is put on a beam or on spools
or bobbins, and a wire faller or some equivalent device is placed so as to
take up the slack and keep the yarn straight; it then passes between
tho rollers F, and thence to the needles. The rollers are covered with

page_text: some material sufficiently adhesive to hold the yarn from slipping. The
rollers Fare moved laterally by the upright arms r, r, on the traverse
bar, so that the yarn is always directly under the needles. The lower
roller slides on a square shaft, which revolves in bearings fixed to the
sword, so that the traverse bar moves the rollers with the needles. The
upper roller is a friction roller moved by the lower one. To the end of
the square shaft is fixed a combined pinion and ratchet wheel G, having
spur and ratchet teeth side by side. The spur teeth play into the rack II
as the lay comes up to the breast beam; the spur tecth in the rack turn
the pinion wheel, and cause the rollers F to take back the whip yarn
that has been given out. When the pinion gets to the end of the spur
teeth in the rack it does not revolve further, but having a friction
sufficiently strong for the purpose it slides on the rack as well as on the
ratchet teeth, and of course takes up no more of the yarn. The yarn
thus left is what is required for the stitch, and as soon as the stitch is
formed and the slack yarn is used up the lay starts to go out. At this
point the ratchet part of the wheel N catches into the ratchet teeth of
the rack, and it begins at once to revolve and give out yarn from the
rollers. The ratchet teeth cause the pinion to revolve until it catches
into the spur teeth, and they continue the revolution until the end of
the stroke, when the needles are full up. By this means a certain
definite quantity of yarn is furnished to the needles without tension or
irregularity, and the stitch is always uniform. It is necessary that the
quantity of whip yarn thus furnished to the needles should be susceptible
of variation and adjustment; this is effected by a double wedge bar I, I,
working vertically in the rack H, drawing it out or pushing it in as the
doublo wedge moves up and down. When the bar rises the inclination
of the wedge draws the rack towards the breast beam and gives the spur
teeth more action, and of course causes the rollers to take up more yarn,
leaving less for the stitch. Reversing the motion gives out more yarn
for the stitch. This wedge bar is held in an upright position by bearings
attached to the loom side, and the lower end rests upon the lever n.
This lower end of the wedge bar I is adjusted with a screw, so that the
length of yarn for the stitch can be regulated without reference to the
lever n. The vertical motion is given by the pin in the stitch bar O
raising the lever n, which in turn raises I. The lever n may be adjusted
by a stop motion, which would hold the lever just out of the range of
the pin in the stitch bar O, so that in ordinary stitching it need not be
moved except when a stitch longer than usual is wanted.

page_text: A modification of the above plan is to place the whip yarns on one
roller instead of passing them between two, giving a turn completely
around the roller, which should be covered with sand paper to give it
sufficient adhesion to the yarn.
Another plan is to attach the roller or rollers to the upright bars that
raise the pin bar, in which case they would give out and take up yarn
by the action of rising and falling, and would only need sufficient motion
to give off what is wanted for the stitch.
Another plan is to place the roller or rollers near the whip yarn beam,
having the faller between it and the needles.
Another still is to place the whip yarn beam so that it should rest on
a drum properly geared to give off the right quantity.
The plan first described is more precise in its action and more closcly
adjustable than any others.
In making the circular borders for gored skirts or dresses it is necessary
sometimes to make so large a circle as to require more traverse than can
easily be given to the needles by the above arrangement. When this
is the case the border should be woven separately from the garment and
attached afterwards. To do this the warp of the cloth is put upon the
conical spools o, which are placed upon one shaft, and are put in the
place of the usual warp beam. The cloth woven by this arrangement is
taken up by a cloth beam p, or upon cloth rollers shaped to match the
arrangement of the spools o. The lappet work is thrown into the centre
of these strips, which when cut apart will form circles of a radius
proportioned to the difference in the diameters of the different ends
of the conical spools. If in the employment of the conical spools it
should be necessary to make the degree of taper adjustable it can be
done by cutting a screw on the shaft, to which a conical nut may be
fitted. The spools or rollers may be made in longitudinal strips like
the staves of a barrel, then fastened together at one end, and expanding
or contracting the other end by the conical nut. It has been found
difficult to arrange the pin bar D so that the pins may be sufficiently
firm as well as in a straight line without making the pin bar too heavy
and clumsy. It is of great importance to have the least possible weight
in the pin bar as well as the needle bars, and especially to have them
occupy the least possible space, so that the raceboard may be as close
as possible to the reed. To remedy this difficulty a thin strip of metal
or other suitable substance is attached close to the edge of the raceboard,

page_text: leaving just space enough to allow the pins to pass easily between
the edge of the raceboard and the guide strip.
Another plan to accomplish the same result is to bore holes in the
edge of the raceboard and set it back far enough to allow the pins to
pass up through the holes, or to attach little eyes or brackets to the edgo
of the raceboard to guide the pins. The pin bar as well as the needle
bar (which is attached thereto) is made of thin strips of metal or other
suitable substance, and has the pins and needles let into the edge and
made fast. In raising the pin bar it is necessary, in order to give the
needles time to shift their position in making the stitch, that the pin
bar should not start up until the lay has made one-fourth or thereabouts
of a stroke, and then it should be full up when the shuttle enters the
shed. To obtain the irregular motion necessary for this result the lifting
roller j is made of irregular shape instead of round. The same result
would follow from making the rollers i, i, of the same shape instead of j.
This shape must raise the pin bar rapidly at first and dwell when the
pins are up..
In the foregoing description I have described a loom containing only
one needle bar, but it is evident that the bar and its operating mechanism
can be duplicated or can be used with the old or any known form of
lappet mechanism.
Having now described the Invention which has been communicated
to me as aforesaid, and having explained the manner of carrying the
same into effect, I claim as the Invention secured to me by Letters
Patent as aforesaid,―
First. The combination of the pattern mechanism with the stitching
mechanism when the two are actuated by different powers or are con-
nected with the same power by intermediate gearing or attachment, so
as to give to each mechanism a motion distinct from the other, as
described.
Second. The friction rollers or cylinders, one or more, for the purpose
of giving a definite yet adjustable quantity of whip yarn to the needles
without tension, as described.
Third. The roller j of irregular or cam shape in combination with
the pin and needle bars for the purpose of giving them an irregular
motion.

page_text: Fourth. The combined ratchet and pinion wheel G in combination
with the rack H, as and for the purpose described.
Fifth. The double wedge bar I for the purpose of regulating the
quantity of whip yarn to be furnished to the needles.
Sixth. The lever n in combination with the bar O and its pin for
raising the double wedge bar.
Seventh. The traverse bar M in combination with the needle bar and
friction rollers.
Eighth. The combined pinion and friction wheel N in combination
with the friction wire, for the purpose set forth.
Ninth. The lever e with adjustable fulcrum in combination with the
traverse bar M and needle bar for regulating its movements.
Tenth. The friction sleeve having an upright stand in combination
with the pattern and stitch wheels and traverse lever e.
Eleventh. The combination with the stitching mechanism of the
adjustable pawl Q constructed and operating as described.
Twelfth. The combination of the mechanism which makes the stitch
with the mechanism which gives the whip yarn to the needles, so that
the motion of the mechanism which gives off the whip yarn to the
needles may be regulated and controlled by the stitching mechanism.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Edward Newton, have
hereunto set my hand and seal, the Twenty-sixth day of March,
in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy.