Improvements in the Production of a Silky or Similar Lustrous Effect on Yarns, Threads, and Fabrics having a Vegetable Origin.
Year: 1896

page_text: Date of Application, 5th Sept., 1896
Complete Specification Left, 4th June, 1897-Accepted, 31st July, 1897
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Production of a Silky or Similar Lustrous
Effect on Yarns, Threads, and Fabrics having a Vegetable
Origin.
I, ADOLF LIEBMANN, M.A., D.Ph., of 10, Marsden Street, Manchester, in the County
of Lancaster, Consulting and Analytical Chemist, do hereby declare the nature of
this invention to be as follows:-
It is known that when yarns, threads, woven fabrics and the like having a vege-
table origin, hereinafter called "the textile materials," are treated by the process
"mercerising," they shrink, but at the same time acquire additional
strength.
This invention includes the mercerisation of the textile materials with such
additions and modifications as are hereinafter described, in such a manner as to
obtain the advantages of the process with the addition of the production of a silky or
similar lustrous effect and so also as to control or prevent the shrinkage, or even to
increase the length or width of the textile material as compared with the original
dimension or dimensions.
The improved process is carried out in substantially the same manner with yarns
and threads on the one hand, and with woven fabrics on the other, the principal
difference being in the machines or appliances in which the textile material is
stretched during the operation. Such machines or appliances are well known and in
common use for both classes of the textile materials and need not be described.
will be sufficient therefore to describe the process as applied in the treatment of
cotton yarn by way of example.
It
After the yarn has been mercerised as at present, the superfluous mercerising
liquid is removed and it is stretched, while still wet with the mercerising liquid, to
such an extent as may be desired, and remains stretched for from 5 to 10 minutes,
more or less, according to the nature of the material. It is then douched or other-
wise treated with water, and released from the stretched condition, after which it may
or may not be again washed with water.
The yarn may subsequently be treated with a weak acid bath, preferably acidified
with acetic acid, as this does not involve subsequent washing.
The lustre of the textile material may be still further increased by treatment with
weak acetic or other suitable acid, and soap solution.
The textile materials, treated as hereinbefore described, have a highly lustrous
appearance, a good "feel," and drape well.
. Dated this 4th day of September A.D. 1896
W. E. HEYS & SON,
Agents for the Applicants.

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION (AMENDED).
Improvements in the Production of a Silky or Similar Lustrous
Effect on Yarns, Threads, and Fabrics having a Vegetable
Origin.
I, ADOLF LIEBMANN, M.A., Ph.D., of 10, Marsden Street, Manchester, in the
County of Lancaster, Consulting and Analytical Chemist, do hereby declare the
nature of this invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
It is known that when yarns, threads, woven fabrics and the like, having a vegetable
origin and which are for brevity hereinafter called "the textile materials" are treated
by the process known as "mercerising" they shrink, but at the same time acquire
additional strength.
My present invention includes the mercerisation of the textile materials of the
character hereinafter defined with such additions and modifications as are hereinafter
described, in such a manner as to obtain the full advantages of the process with the
additional advantage of a silky or lustrous effect and so also as to control or prevent
the shrinkage or even to increase the length or width of the textile material as
compared with the original dimension or dimensions.
The improved process is carried out in substantially the same manner with yarns
and threads on the one hand and with woven fabrics on the other, the principal
difference being in the machines or appliances in which the textile material is
stretched during the operation. Such machines and appliances are well known and
are in common use for both classes of the textile materials and need not therefore
now be described.
According to my invention I select yarns or fabrics which are made from Egyptian
or Sea Island cotton, as I find that with these fibres alone can I obtain the lustrous
or silky appearance which it is the object of this invention to produce. To-obtain
the most efficient results-yarns-should-be Yarns are selected which are lightly
twisted and slackly doubled or fabrics woven from such yarns. As the mercerising
agent I use either caustic soda or caustic potash preferably a solution of caustic soda
of 52° Twaddle or thereabouts. It will be sufficient to describe the process as
applied in the treatment of cotton yarn by way of example the yarn being of the
character herein before defined.
After the yarns have been mercerised as described the superfluous mercerising liquid
may be removed by squeezing between rollers and whilst still wet with the merceris-
ing liquid the yarns can be stretched to such an extent as may be desired. It is
suffered to remain in the stretched condition for from five to ten minutes and is then
douched or otherwise thoroughly washed with water and released from the stretched
condition after which it may, or may not, be again washed with water.
The best result however is obtained in the following manner :-
The yarns are mounted and moderately stretched upon two rollers capable of being
moved apart and of being rotated. These rollers are mounted vertically one above
the other, one in, and one over, a bath in which the mercerising solution of the
density stated, is placed so that it covers say about one third of the yarn. The rollers
are rotated and after the yarn is saturated with the mercerising liquid the said rollers
are moved away from each other so as to stretch the yarn to whatever length is
desired, the yarn whilst still in the stretched condition is then washed with water
introduced into the bath in place of the mercerising solution and the washing is
continued until the soda is removed therefrom. The yarn is then taken from the
rollers and will have a lustrous or silky appearance.
This I find is the case only

page_text: when Egyptian or Sea Island cotton has been so treated and I therefore exclude other
fibrous material.
If the material treated as above described be further treated with soap or acetic
acid the appearance and improved texture or softness of the material to the touch will
be enhanced.
Piece goods made from Egyptian or Sea Island cotton by-preference from lightly
twisted and slackly doubled yarns are treated in the same manner the stretching
apparatus being adapted for piece goods as is well understood.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said Inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that I do not claim
the application of the process to Egyptian and Sea Island yarns and fabrics
generally but only to such as are of the character above described, but what I
claim is
The production of textile materials having lustrous or silky qualities consisting in
selecting Egyptian or Sea Island cotton yarns or fabrics of the character described
and subjecting them to treatment substantially as herein before described.
Inna
Dated thy. A
Lina
W. E. HEYS & SON,
Agents for the Applicant.
W. E. HEYS & SON,
Agents for the Applicant.