A Method of Measuring for and Apparatus for Drafting Patterns of Dresses and like Garments.
Year: 1898

page_text: . Date of Application, 26th May, 1898-Accepted, 20th May, 1899
A Method of Measuring for and Apparatus for Drafting Patterns of
Dresses and like Garments.
I, IDA PERTHEN, neé FRANKE, of 69, Elisenstrasse, Leipzig, Ladies Tailoress,
do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to
be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:-
In all methods hitherto usually employed for making cutting out patterns
according to measurements taken from the figure, a drawback has been ex-
perienced in that it is not every person who possesses so much talent for drawing
as is necessary to correctly draw the various manifold curved lines of the cut-out
pontours, so that generally great difficulties are experienced in doing so, whilst
often the cut out contours have been found to be a complete failure.
Now the present method has for object to obviate these drawbacks; it consists
of two parts (1) an entirely peculiar mode of taking measurements (2) a
mechanical method of transferring these measurements on to paper by means of
an apparatus specially constructed for that purpose.
1. Taking the measurements. The most exact measurement is naturally the
first and most important chief factor for success in cutting-out, and consequently
also for a faultlessly fitting garment. For this purpose my new system of
measurement requires 16 different measurements for the body, and two measure-
ments for the dress or skirt, in order to take down with accuracy the entire
peculiarity of the shape of the body. For taking the measurements it is only
necessary to have a reliable and durable measure divided into centimetres.
On the accompanying drawings illustrating this invention:-
Fig. 1 represents various diagrams illustrating the measurements which are
necessary according to this method.
Fig. 2 represents the template or measure used for transferring the measure-
ments of the body to the pattern.
Fig. 3 illustrates the patterns for a complete bodice.
The measurements required according to my method are as follows: --
1. Bottom measure round waist a.
2. Top measure round body b.
3. Width of chest c.
4. Top width of chest d.
5. Measure round neck e.
6. Length of body in front f.
7. Length of body at back g.
8. Width of back h.
9. Depth of side i.
10. Front length k
11. Length along shoulder 1.
12. Length over shoulder m.
13. Outside length of sleeve n.
14. Inside length of sleeve o.

page_text: 15. Width round elbow p.
16. Opening of sleeve q.
2. Drawing the cutting out outlines. For the purpose of enabling the measure-
ments thus obtained to be transferred to paper without trouble, the apparatus
constructed as shown in Figure 2 is employed. This apparatus consists of a
template made of paper-board, wood, celluloid or metal, and which
comprises a straight line and every possible curve that occurs in the human
figure it is divided throughout in centimetres and millimetres, so that the
measurements taken from the figure can be read off and copied and drawn in the
natural size directly from the proper curve.
The points shown in Fig. 3 are found in the following manner.
With the assistance of the template Fig. 2 a horizontal line about 50 cm. long
is drawn 20 cm. above the lower edge of the sheet which is called the baseline
and the point 1 is placed at the right end of this line.
From the point 1 a line is drawn upwards at a right angle of the length of the
back and in this manner point 2 is obtained.
From the point 2 a distance equal to the sixth part of the length of the back is
set off downward on the line just drawn and the point 3 is thus obtained.
From the point 3 a distance equal to the sixth part of the length is again set
off downward which gives the point 4.
From the point 1 the length of the side is measured upwards and the point 5
is obtained.
From the point 1 a distance equal to the twentieth part of the lower width of
waist is measured off towards the left and the point 6 is obtained.
From the point 4 a distance equal to half of the width of the back is measured
off towards the left and the point 7 is obtained.
From the point 7 a curved line is drawn by means of the part B of the template
to the point 6.
From the point 3 a line equal to half the length of the width of the back is
drawn towards the left and the point 8 is obtained.
From the point 8 a curved line is drawn by means of the part C of the template
to the point 7. Then from the point 2 a line is drawn at right angles towards
the left of a length equal to one fourth of the width of the upper bodice, by
which means the point 9 is obtained.
The point 10 is obtained by measuring off from the point 2 a distance equal
to one sixth of the width of the neck. From the point 10 a line is drawn per-
pendicularly upward of lem. in length and the point 1 is thus obtained.
From the point 11 a line is drawn by means of the template towards the point
and the pattern for the back part of the neck is thus obtained. From the point 11
a straight line is drawn to the point S and the width of the shoulder is obtained.
The point 12 is obtained by drawing a perpendicular line from the point 9 to
the base-line.
Point 13 is obtained by drawing or rather measuring the tenth part of the
width of the waist upon the base-line from the point 6.
By measuring the tenth part of the lower width of waist on the base-line from
the point 12, the point 14 is obtained.
Point 15 is obtained by setting off the length of the side upwards on a per-
pendicular line from the point 12. From the point 7 a curved line is drawn
by means of the part C of the template towards the point 15.
By means of the part C of the template the distance from the point 15 to the
point 7 is accurately measured. Half of this distance gives the point 16.
By means of the part D of the template a line is drawn from the point 13
towards the point 16 which line is bulged towards the right, and the length at
point 16 is read off.
The opposite upper part of the part D of the template is placed upon the
points 16 coincident with the distance just read off and a line bulged towards the
right is drawn through the point 14 to the lower point of the part D. The end

page_text: of this line will of course be below the base line and is the point 17. From the
point 17 a straight line is drawn to the point 12.
The line 29 is extended horizontally to half the length of the width of the
breast towards the left and the point 18 is thus obtained.
From the point 9 a distance equal to one quarter of the width of the breast in
measured towards the left and the point 19 is thus obtained.
From the point 19 a perpendicular line of a few centimeters is drawn upwards.
From the length of the height of the shoulders the measurement of the back of
the neck, that is the line 11-2 which should be measured by means of the part A
of the template is subtracted. The length thus obtained is set off from point 12
in the direction of the auxiliary line above point 19. The point where the length
in question cuts the auxiliary line is 20.
From the point 18 a perpendicular line is drawn downwards ending some
centimeters below the base line. From the length of the front the measure of the
back of the neck, that is the line 11-2 which should be measured by means of
the part A of the template is subtracted. The length thus obtained is measured
from the point 20 inclined towards the line drawn perpendicularly downwards
from the point 18 and the point 21 is set off below the base line. From the
point 21 a straight line is drawn to the point 12.
From the point 21 the height of the front is set off perpendicularly upwards
and the point 22 is thus obtained. By means of the part E of the template a
line is drawn from the point 20 to the point 22 which gives the cut of the neck
for the front part.
From half of the width of neck the measurement of the back of the neck that
is the line 11-2 is subtracted which can be measured by means of the part A
of the template is subtracted. By means of the part of the template the
distance just measured is set off from the point 20 on the line in the direction of
the point 22 and the point 23 thus obtained.
From the point 1 the distance to the point 8 is measured off and this distance is
subtracted from the height of the shoulder. The measurement thus obtained is
measured off in the direction of the point 9 from the point 21 and a point is made
which for the present we will leave without number. The measurement of the
width of the back of the shoulders that is the line 8-11 is set off from the point 20
towards the right in the direction of the point which has just been found and is
without number. The point where both measurements meet together is 24. Care
should be taken that after finding the point 24 the measurement of the width of
shoulder from the point 24 towards the point 20 and the distance calculated
towards the point 21 are quite accurate as only in this case is the point 24 correct.
From the point 20 a straight line is drawn towards the point 24.
From the point 5 a horizontal line is drawn through the point 15 ending some-
what beyond, the perpendicular line 21-22. The width of the wedge-section
near the point 16 is added to half of the width of the upper bodice. This new
measurement is set off from the point 5 towards the left and the point 25 is thus
obtained.
By means of the part B of the template a line is drawn from the point 25 to
point 23 and by means of the part 1 of the template a line is drawn from the
point 25 to the point 21.
The distance of 6 cm is set off from the point 23 by means of the part B of the
template upon the line extending downwards and the point 26 thus obtained.
From the point 26 half of the width of the upper breast is measured off hori-
zontally towards the right and the point 27 obtained. By means of the part C
of the template a line is drawn from the point 24 to the point 27 and from the
point 27 to the point 15 and the arm-hole is thus set out.
The distance from the point 21 to the point 12 is measured and a quarter of
the width of the lower waist is subtracted therefrom. Having calculated this

page_text: distance it is distributed over the folds for the breast; it is usual to allow one
third for the front fold and two third for the back fold.
From the point 21, 20 of the width of the lower waist is measured of towards
the right and the point 28 obtained.
The distance calculated for the front fold of the breast is set off from the
point 28 which gives the point 29.
Half the measurement for the front breast fold is set off from the point 29
towards the left which gives the point 30.
From the point 30 a straight line is drawn to the point 20 and where this line
cuts the horizontal line 15-25 the point 31 is marked.
A quarter of the distance between the points 30 and 31 is set off from the
point 31 downwards and the point 32 is thus found.
From the point 28 a line towards the left is drawn by means of the part D of
the template to the point 32 and the measurement is read off from the template.
The opposite part of the part D of the template is set on at 32 with the
measurement just read off coinciding with this point and the template is so placed
that a line bulged towards the right can be drawn through the point 29 to the
lower point of the part D. The end of this line will of course lie beneath the
point 29 and is marked 32.
From the point 33 a distance equal to 1/20 of the lower width of waist is set
off towards the line 29-12 and the point 34 is thus obtained.
The measurement for the hind breastfold (see explanations with regard to
point 28) is set off from the point 34 towards the right by which means the
point 35 is obtained.
Half of the measurement is set off from the point 35 towards the left and the
point 36 marked.
The distance between the point 36 and 30 is measured and the distance is set
off from the point 31 on the horizontal auxiliary line towards the right and the
point 37 marked. From the point 37 a straight line is drawn to the point 36.
of the line 36-37 is set off from the point 37 downwards by which means
the point 38 is found. From the point 34 a line is drawn bulged towards the
left to the point 38 by means of the part 1 of the template and the measurement
on the template at the point 38 is read off.
The opposite upper part of the part D of the template is placed with the
measurement just read off at the point 38, and a line bulged towards the right is
drawn through the point 35 to the lower point point of the template D. The end of
this line will of course fall beneath the point 35 and is the point 39. A straight
line is drawn from 39 to 12.
The distances between the points 39-12 and 12-17 are measured off and
added together. From the sum of these two distances one quarter of the lower
width of waist is subtracted. The remainder is divided into two equal parts, and
one half thereof is set off on the line 12-39, by which means the point 40 is
obtained. The second half is set off on the line 12-17 and gives the point 41.
By means of the part 1 of the template lines bulged to the left and right are
drawn from the points 40 and 41 to the point 15.
The body of the bodice is then finished.
I will now describe how to draw out the lower part or lap and I take for ex-
ample a modern pointed pattern.
From the
Firstly, the fine 32-30 is extended downwards about 12 cm.
point 21 a line of exactly 12 cm is drawn downwards parallel to the extension
of the line 32-30 and the point 42 thus obtained.
From the point 28 a line is drawn downwards exactly 10 cm. long, parallel to
the extension of the line 32-30 which gives the point 43.
From the point 33 a line is drawn downwards exactly 10 cm long, parallel to
the extension of the line 32-30 which gives the point 44.
From the point 34 a line is drawn downwards exactly 9 cm. !ong parallel to
the line 33-44 which gives the point 45.

page_text: The template is placed coincident with the peints 24 and 39, and a line of 9 cm.
is drawn downwards from the point 39 which gives the pont 40
The template is placed coincident with the points 20 and 40 and a line is
drawn downwards for 6 cm from the point 40 which gives the point 47.
The template is placed coincident with the points 16 and 41 and a line is
drawn downwards for 6 cm from the point 41, which gives the point 48.
The template is placed coincident with the points 15 and 17 and a line is
drawn from the point 17, 6em long which gives the point 49.
The template is placed coincident with the points 2 and 13 and a line of 9 cm.
is drawn downwards from the point 13 which gives the point 50.
The template is placed coincident with the points 6 and 7 and a line of 9 cm
is drawn downwards from the point 6 which gives the point 51.
The template is placed coincident with the points 2 and 6, and a line of 9 cm
is drawn downwards from the point which gives the point 52.
The line 5-1 is lengthened 12 cm downwards which gives the point 53.
By means of the part B of the template lines bulged downwards are drawn
connecting the points 42 and 43, 44 and 45, 46 and 47, 48 and 49, 50 and 51,
52 and 53.
If it is desired to draw out a longer or shorter under part or lap the same
principles hold good, but the length of the lines extended beyond the point for
the body or upper part must of course be correspondingly altered.
I will now describe the method of setting out an upright collar.
A horizontal line of 50 cm is drawn and divided in the middle. From the
middle point a perpendicular line of 17 cm is drawn downwards. A distance
of cm 5.5 is measured downwards from the horizontal line along the perpen-
dicular line, and a second horizontal line likewise of 50 cm. drawn through the
point thus obtained. The straight side of the part B of the template is placed on
this horizontal line so that the middle division on the ruler is placed exactly
coincident with the perpendicular line and the curved line drawn.
Half of the width of the coflar is set off towards the right and left; on the
right hand the point 54 is made, and on the left hand the point 55.
The part B of the ruler is placed on the upper horizontal line in exactly the
same manner. As the upper width of the collar is almost always 7 cm. shorter
this amount is subtracted from the width of the collar and half of the remainder
is measured off on each side of the middle line and along the curve of the part B
of the template; the points 56 and 57 are thus obtained.
The points 54 and 56, as also 55 and 57 are then connected by straight lines.
The upright collar is then finished.
I will not describe the setting out of the sleeves.
A horizontal line, called the base-line, is drawn of the length of the outer
length of the sleeve; the point 58 is made at the beginning of the line and the
point 59 at the end.
The circumference of the arın-hole is then measured off with the part C of the
template on the body pattern which has already been set out. From the point 58
a perpendicular line is drawn upwards half the length of the circumference of
the arm-hole which gives the point 60.
From the point 59 a perpendicular line is drawn equal to the sum of half the
length of the circumference of the arm-hole and 3 cm. which gives the point 61.
From the point 59 the length of the upper arm is set off towards the left upon
the base-line which gives the point 62.
From the point 622 cm are set off towards the left on the base line which
gives the point 63.
From the point 63 a line inclined towards the line 58-60 of the length of the
outer under-arm is set off and the point 54 is marked. With the part B of the
template a continuous line is formed from the lines 63-64 and. 62-59, so that
the curved connecting line gradually melts on both sides into the two straight
lines.

page_text: The exact length of the outer arm is set off on the line just obtained from the
point 64 and the point 65 is marked.
From the point 60 4 cm. are set off on the line connecting the points 60 and 61
and the point 66 is marked. The point 66 is connected with the point 64 by a
straight line.
From the point 64 the sum of half of the length of the arm-hole and 1 cm. is set
off from the point 64 towards the point 66 and the point 67 is marked.
From the point 67 the difference of half of the length of the arm-hole and
1 em. is set off in the direction of the point 64 and the point 68 is marked.
From the point 06 the length of the inner arm is set off towards the right
less 2 cm and the point 69 marked. The point 69 is connected with the point 65
by a straight line.
The line 66-69 is equally divided into two parts which gives the point 70. A
straight line is drawn connecting the points 70 and 62.
From the point 62 the sum of half of the circumference of the elbow and 2 cm
is set off in the direction of the point 70 which gives the point. 71. Straight lines
are drawn to connect the points 71-67 and 71-69.
With the part B of the template a continuous line is drawn through the
points 67, 71 and 69, so that the curved connecting line melts gradually into the
straight lines 67-71 and 71-69; a point 72 is marked where the curved line cuts
the line 70–71.
From the point 72 half of the circumference of the elbow less 2 cm is set off
towards the point 62 and the point 73 is marked. The points 73 and 68 are con-
nected by a straight line.
From the point 69 the distance between the points 15 and 7 on the bodice
pattern is set off towards the point 65 and the point 74 is marked. The points 73
and 74 are connected by a straight line which is extended to cut the line 59-61.
A continuous line is drawn to connect the points 68, 73 and 74 by means of
the part B of the template so that the connecting curve melts gradually into the
straight lines 68-73 and 78-74.
The outer length of the arm is set off from the point 68 on the line just drawn
and the point 75 is marked.
With the reverse side of the part C of the template the points 69 and 75 are
connected by a curved line.
From the point 59 a distance of 10 cm is set off upwards and the point 76 is
marked.
From the point 76 a distance of 4 cm is set off towards the right and the point 77
is marked.
By means of the reverse side of the part C of the template the points 69, 77
and 65 are connected by a curved line."
This cut enables the convenient attachment of the sleeve to the arm hole in
the bodice.
The pattern for the entire bodice is consequently now finished.
The use of the template and the whole process of drawing for cutting out the
skirt is of an analogous nature.
With a little practice, cutting out patterns can be drawn by means of this
process, with extreme ease, and above all with absolute certainty, so that a good
fit of the garments produced according to the said patterns, can be guaranteed,
provided the measurements are carefully taken and the lengths are carefully
calculated and laid off by means of the template on the drawing paper prior to
cutting out. Consequently any person. even without any previous knowledge
of the art of cutting out and of drawing cutting-out-patterns, is enabled by using
this process and apparatus, at once to cut out for herself a well-fitting dress.
As the curves of the template correspond exactly to the build of the human figure
this method and apparatus is equally applicable for men's garments, it being
understood that the taking of the measurements is of course different.

page_text: Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is:
(1) A method for mechanically diawing cutting-out-patterns, characterised by
the fact that by the use of a template which contains all the curves of the figure
and is provided with an exact scale or divisions in millimetres, the measurements
that are obtained according to a special system of measuring by determination of
fixed distances between points, are at once transferred in the natural outline of
the figure on to paper, as set forth.
(2) For the purpose of carrying out the method specified in Claim 1, a curved
template characterised by the fact that it contains all possible curves occurring in
the figure, and that the said curves are accurately divided into millimetres, as set
forth.
Dat this ol
JJ
1000
ROBERT E. PHILLIPS, Assoc. M. Inst.C.E., M.I.Mech. E.
Consulting Engineer and Patent Agent,
70, Chancery Lane, London, W.C., Associate Agent.