Improvements in the Uppers of Boots and Shoes, and in Apparatus for the Manufacture of the same.
Year: 1894

page_text: Date of Application, 8th Oct., 1894-Accepted, 10th Nov., 1894
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Uppers of Boots and Shoes, and in Apparatus
for the Manufacture of the same.
I, CHRISTIAN CHASKEL EISENBERG, of 18p Kaiser-Wilhelmstrasse, Berlin,
in the Empire of Germany, Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this
invention and in what mauner the same is to be performed to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement:
This invention relates to an improved upper for boots and' shoes which is adapted
by reason of its simplicity and utility to entirely supersede similar forms and
arrangements heretofore employed.
In the accompanying drawings which illustrate my invention:―
Figure 1 Sheet No. 1 is a view in perspective showing the toe of a boot or shoe
in which the stitches for attaching or fastening the upper to the sole are situated
on the outside.
Figure 2 Sheet No. 1 is a view in vertical section through the toe.
Figure 3 Sheet No. 1 is a view in side elevation of a top boot.
Figure 4 Sheet No. 1 is a view in side elevation of a lady's shoe.
Figure 5 Sheet No. 1 is a view in plan of Figure 3.
Figure 6 Sheet No. 1 is a view in plan of Figure 4.
Figure 7 Sheet No. 2 is a view in side elevation of an apparatus for manufacturing
the upper.
Figure 8 Sheet No. 2 is a view in plan thereof.
Figures 9 and 10 Sheet No. 2 are similar views to Figures 7 and 8, with the
exception that the working parts of the apparatus are in a different position.
Figure Sheet No. 2 is a view in section on the line, e, of Figure 7, and
Figures 12 and 13 Sheet No. 2 are detail views.
Throughout the views similar parts are marked with like letters of reference.
Referring to Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 Sheet No. 1, the upper A has an outer
edge or welt B forined in one piece with it in the manner hereinafter described.
By this construction the upper is more easily attached to the sole and is made
absolutely watertight.
For making the improved upper the apparatus illustrated by Figures 7, 8, 9, 10, 11,
12 and 13 Sheet No. 2 is employed. A framing C has a top plate b on which are
mounted standards e for fixing a plate d corresponding in shape to the shape of the
'sole of the boot or shoe. This plate d is provided with a catch 1 adapted to engage
with an opening 2 in one of the standards c, and thus fix the plate d in position.
Two arms 3 and 4 on the frame C support a spindle 5 which is formed with
left and right-handed screw threads, and is adapted to be rotated by means of one or
other of the wheels. By this means two nuts i, i, are caused to move nearer to
or away from each other, according to the direction in which the spindle 5 is
rotated. Each of the nuts carries a plate 10 upon which pressing bars 11 are
bolted. The plates 10 are readily detachable from the nuts i, the attachment being
effected by means of sliding pieces 12 which are arranged' on the nuts i and 'serve
to secure the spherical pins 13 of the plates 10 in position as shown more
particularly by Figure 12.
The plate 6 is furnished with a number of clamps or tongs 9, whose jaws arc
adapted to be closed and opened by means of screws 7, whilst the clamps themselves
can be adjusted as to their vertical positions by means of thumb-screws 6 as shown
more particularly by Figure 12.
In treating the upper the mode of operation is as follows:-The pressing bars 11
are first brought into the position shown in Figure 9, by rotating one or both of the

page_text: wheels, and the last e is bolted to the plate, the upper A is then drawn over
the last e and gripped' by the jaws of the clamps g by turning the screws 7. When
the edge of the upper has been clamped in this manner at a sufficient number of
places, the nuts 6 are tightened up until the upper is stretched tightly over the last
closely following the contour thereof. When this has been done, the spindle 5 is
rotated so as to cause the nuts i to move nearer to each other and towards, the
upper. The position of the side bars 11 is so determined that their edges (which
are tapered or bevelled) will come in direct contact with the upper at the junction
of the last e and the plate d. The spindle 5 is now rotated until the bars 11 impart
to the upper the form shown in Figure 12. In order that this configuration shall
take place with certainty, the plate d is preferably made with a stepped border d¹
so that the upper cannot shift or escape.
Pressing levers 14 and 15 which are provided with handles 16 and 17, operate
upon the heel and toe portions in a similar manner to that in which the pressing
bars 11 operate upon the side portions of the upper. After the levers 14 and 15
have pressed the upper to a certain extent inwardly between the last e and the
plated, a further pressing of the levers 14 and 15 is effected by means of the screw
devices 18 and 19.
Instead of the levers 14 and 15, a second spindle with left and right-handed screw
threads may be employed, in which case two other nuts are provided to operate
pressing bars suited to the contour of the heel and toe portions into the upper in a
manner similar to that in which the side bars 11 are pressed into the upper at the
sides thereof.
In order that the shape now imparted to the leather shall be permanently retained,
the upper A with the last e and the pressing bars 11, 14, and 15 are taken out of
the apparatus and placed in a drying chamber. After the boot has remained in the
latter for a sufficient length of time, the screw connection between the last e.and
the plate diis undone, and the last is left on the upper until the boot is finished.
Consequently it is no longer necessary, as in the present process of manufacture, to
fit the boot frequently on to the last during the work, whereby the boot is grently
strained during the process of manufacture.
A further advantage is also obtained by the improved process of manufacture,
inasmuch as the boot is held during working with the sole downwards, and not
upwards as heretofore, that is to say, upside down.
I wish it to be particularly understood that I do not limit myself to the precise
details of construction hereinbefore described and illustrated by the accompanying
drawings, but that I hold myself at liberty to make such changes and alterations as
fairly fall within the spirit and scope of my invention.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the uaturo of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, 1 declare that what I
claim is :-
1. The improvement in the uppers of boots and shoes, substantially as herein-
before described and illustrated by Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 of the accompanying
drawings.
2. The improved apparatus for manufacturing the improved uppers as claimed by
the preceding claim, substantially as hereinbefore described and illustrated by
Figures 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12 and 13 of the accompanying drawings.
3. An upper for boots and shoes having an outer edge or welt formed in one
piece with it and adapted to serve as the means of attaching it to the sole, as set
forth.
4. An apparatus. for manufacturing the improved upper as claimed by the
preceding claim, consisting of clamps such as g, g, adapted to stretch the upper
over the last e, of side pressing bars 11, and pressing levers 14 and 15 for the heel
and toe portions, the said pressing bars and levers serving to press the upper in
between the last e and a sole plate d, and so effect the formation of the outer edge
'or welt, as set forth.

page_text: 5. In an apparatus as claimed by the fourth claim, the substitution of pressing
bars for the pressing levers 14 and 15, the said pressing bars being adapted to act.
on the heel and toe portions of the upper in the same manner as the pressing bars 11
act upon the side portions thereof, as set forth.
6. In an apparatus as claimed by the fourth claim, a sole plate & conforming to
the shape of the last e, the said plated being capable of being connected to the last
and having a stepped edge or border d' for preventing the upper from shifting
during the pressing operation, as hereinbefore described and shown.
Dated this theda of Ontahan 1904
ROBERT E. PHILLIPS, M.I.M.E.,
Consulting Engineer and Patent Agent,
70, Chancery Lane, London, W.C., Associate Agent.