Year: 1892

page_text: Date of Application, 20th July, 1892-Accepted, 10th Sept., 1892
Figs. 6 and 7 are views showing form of cams.
My invention has for its object an improved construction to be used in machines
for forming. button holes and consists specifically in mechanism for guiding the
material containing the worked button hole in such a manner that the needle and
thread of the sewing machine will stitch a substantial bar across the unfinished end
of the button hole. The bar made on my machine is formed of a series of transverse
stitches laid one on top of each other at right angles to the length of the button
hole, which series of long transverse stitches is afterward overseamed by a number
of short stitches crossing the transverse stitches side by side and close together.
As the end long stitches are laid at right angles to both the length of the button
hole and the bed plate of the machine, I call them long transverse stitches, and as
the short stitches are laid in the same direction as both the length of the button
hole and bed plate of the machine I call them short longitudinal stitches. The
formation of this construction of stitch is accomplished by having the cloth or other
material to be operated upon shifted under the needle point. This shifting of the
goods I accomplish by having a carrier A go through the necessary operations and
by clamping the goods fast to said carrier by means of an automatic clamp B.
This carrier A is a flat piece of metal pivoted at one end to the stud A² in the bed
of the machine, the carrier A working in the slot a; so that this carrier is enabled
to vibrate across the machine upon the stud as a pivot point, and to be moved
longitudinally in the said machine by the movement of the stud in the slot. These
separate movements may be made independently or both together. In forming my
bar I first cause the carrier to oscillate transversely to form the long transverse
stitches, which constitute the bed or foundation of the bar. I then cause the
carrier to vibrate longitudinally, thus forming the short longitudinal stitches which
overseam the long transverse ones just made, and at the same time I cause my
carrier to slowly move transversely, so that the short overseaming stitches will not
be in one place, but evenly distributed along the long under stitches side by side.
and close together. At the opposite end of the carrier A from the stud A² is the
throat or opening, through which the needle passes in sewing. In order to
properly locate the material in the first instance and to more firmly secure it during
the after operation of sewing the bar, I place on the carrier an adjustable guide C.
This adjustable guide is a metal projection somewhat similar to a button hole,
consisting of the blade e and a post cover which the button hole is slipped. This
post is mounted on a flat piece of metal e provided with a slot c³ for adjusting,
through which slot passes a screw c' entering the carrier A, and thus securing the
post to the carrier at any desired distance from the blade c. The clamp B is
pivoted at B' to the standard B2 on the carrier A, and the clamp is extended
beyond this pivot point and the spring connects this pivot point with the fixed;

page_text: support so as to act upon said clamp to normally hold it firmly on the cloth.
B is an
arm having the wedge end 62 which acts in the end of the clamp,
which arm is pivoted at b. The arm B is connected to the lever ³ which in
turn is connected to the treadle rod through the link b³, the rod B being
provided with a coil spring surrounding it, and B' is a continuation of arm B³
and connected to rod B. The rod B is connected by the link or arm B³
fulcrumed at 10 with the clutch B, and the action of the spring upon the
arm B is such as to hold the clutch, which is upon the main driving shaft, in
engagement with the driving pulley D, which runs loose upon said shaft, and also
to act upon the clamp B so as to move the clamp free from the goods. I give
the desired movement to the cloth carrier and automatically stop the machine and
release the clamp in the following manner. D' is the main driving shaft. Upon
this shaft is the worm D and at right angles to said shaft and supported by the
bearing in the support 3 secured to the machine is the shaft D³, having the
worn wheel D which is operated by the worm on the main driving shaft. On
the worm wheel shaft I fasten a disc E carrying two cains EE2, the faces of these
cams being as shown in detail Figures 6 and 7. A projection on the end of the
arm F pivoted at f, works on the surface of the cam E. To this arm is connected
the link F having the stud f which stud works in a slot f in the carrier A,
which is connected in the slot in the carrier by an adjustable screw ³ so that its
position in said slot may be varied. A projection connected to the arm G pivoted
at works on the cam E', said arm being provided with a slotted portion g¹, in
which a stud g³, adjustably connected, rests, said stud being connected by a link g³
with the carrier A. As may be seen, one of these cams, E' is formed with a
number of depressions or prominences, and the remainder of its face is truc, the
other cam being formed of a series of depressions and prominences, and from
the end of these projections a constantly increasing series of steps to the point of
beginning. The position of the arms F and G in relation to the two canis at the
beginning of the operation, is as shown in Figure 2. When the machine is started,
the projection of the arm F is moved upon its pivot point in one direction, causing
the carrier to be moved in a longitudinal direction, and when it passes the first
prominence the spring fattached to said arm forces it back into the depression,
moving the carrier transversely in the opposite direction, and the further movement
of the cam causes it again to rise, moving it in the opposite direction, at each
movement of the arm backward and forward, the needle entering the cloth and a
series of transverse stitches equal to the number of prominences are made. This is
continued for five movements of the lever arm F, thus causing four stitches to be
made. If the prominences be increased the number of stitches will also be
increased. This forms the longitudinal stitches. This movement of the cam, S
has brought the cam E' so that the arm G is opposite the prominence on said cam,
and the further movement causes said arm G to vibrate backward and forward,
acting upon the carrier to move it backward and forward in a longitudinal
direction, and at the same time the arm F is moved by its cam face up the gradually
increasing steps, on said cam face, which causes the cloth carrier to move slowly in
a transverse direction, sufficient to prevent the stitches from overlying one
another. This is continued for six stitches, although the number may be increased
to any desired number, and the button hole barred. Connected to the disc is the
ledge H on which rests the collar which is connected to the arm A, the arm /'
being connected to lever B³, and in this ledge is an inset ³ placed about that
portion of the cam S which denotes the commencement and conclusion of the work,
and when that portion comes opposite to the collar the collar drops in and the
spring acts upon the arm B³ releasing the clutch, which moves the lever B³ so as
to act on cloth clamp B releasing the clamp. When the treadle is operated to
move the lever B³, it presses the spring moving the rod B and the lever B
pulling the clutch into action and acting upon the rod to lift the collar out of
the inset and the collar rests upon the ledge holding the arm B from return
movement; also operating the treadle releases the arm B³ from the clamp B and

page_text: the spring b forces the clamp upon the goods. At the conclusion of the barring it
is necessary to release the tension from the thread tension device, and I accomplish
this in the following manner. J is the thread tension device consisting of two
discs j the disc j being connected.
The discs are hung to a bar J³ on one end of which is a thumb screw j³ and
spring, which act upon the discs jj to increase or diminish the tension. The
other end of bar J is connected to the short end of lever B so that the movement
of the said bar increases or decreases the tension.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is :-
1st. In a button hole barring machine, in combination, a cloth carrier adapted to
move laterally and longitudinally rotating cams having scroll and peripheral cams
and connections between said cams and the carrier whereby the peripheral part of
one cam operates when the scroll part of the other cam operates and vice versa,
a spring-acting cloth clamp and intermediate connection between the cams and
the cloth clamp whereby the cloth clamp is automatically opened and closed by
the action of the cams.
2nd. In a button hole barring machine, in combination, a cloth carrier adapted
to move laterally and longitudinally, rotating cams having scroll and peripheral
cams and connection between said cams and the carrier, a driving shaft, a worm
upon said shaft, a worn wheel in the cams shaft, an inset in said cam, an arm
carrying a collar, a spring arm, connection between said collar arm and spring arm,
a spring acting between said spring arms, a cloth clamp, and connection between
said spring arm and cloth clamp.
3rd. In a button hole barring machine, in combination, a cloth carrier adapted
to move laterally and longitudinally, rotating cams, one having alternate elevations
and depressions, the other having alternate elevations and depressions, and a
plane surface of constantly increasing elevations, an inset in said cam, an arm
carrying a collar, a spring arm, connection between said collar arm and spring
arm, a spring acted cloth clamp, and connection between said spring arm and
cloth clamp.
4th. In a button hole barring machine, in combination, a cloth carrier adapted to
move laterally and longitudinally a main driving shaft, a worm upon said shaft, a
worm wheel, cams as E' upon the shaft of said worm wheel, pivoted arms
as F and G adapted to work upon said cams E¹ E2 and intermediate connection
substantially as described between said arms and the cloth carrier, a collar
arm as, a rod as B a spring arm as B a cloth clamp as B, a connection
as and B3.
Dated this Chuch low of Luno & D 1900
HENRY PAUL FEISTER.
Haseltine, Lake & Co.,
45, Southampton Buildings, London, Agents for the Applicant.