Improvements in or connected with Lace Machines.
Year: 1891

page_text: Date of Application, 1st May, 1891-Accepted, 6h June, 1 91
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
[Communicated from abroad by DÉSIRÉ SIVAL, of 8, Rue de Lorraine, Villeurbanne
(Rhone), France, Lace Manufacturer.]
Improvements in or connected with Lace Machines.
I, JOHN JARDINE, of Raleigh Street, in the Town and County of the Town of
Nottingham, Machinist, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement, reference being had to the accompanying drawings
and to the letters and figures marked thereon, that is to say :-
The object of this invention is to obtain a better quality machine made lace by
an improved mode (as hereinafter described) of regulating the tensions on the
threads, combined with the use of independent spool threads arranged to work in
conjunction with top and bottom bars.
The improvements which allow of the manufacture of all kinds of lace capable
of production on lace machines, enable novel spool articles to be obtained in a
practical manner and with great fineness of gauge and perfect regularity.
These results are obtained by the improvements about to be described which
relate:
1. To improved creels, banks, or frames.
2. To an arrangement or means for regulating the spool threads, and to a special
mounting of these threads in combination with fine bars.
3. To the employment of this arrangement or means for regulating the tension
of the threads, in combination with the creels, banks, or frames, and the small beams
in cases where it is desired to obtain exceptional or jacquarded tensions for the
threads.
In the accompanying drawings
Fig. 1 represents, in side view, the arrangement of the creels, banks, or frames
(hereinafter called creels only to avoid repetition) and the arrangement for varying
the tension of the spool threads.
Fig. 2 shews, in side view, the application of the improvements, first, in cases
where it is desired to obtain novel spool articles with triple warp, that is to say
three warp threads for each carriage; and secondly, where it is desired to obtain
ordinary Levers' articles with gimp and coarse threads.
Fig. 3 shews, in side view, the arrangement necessary for obtaining ordinary
spool articles by means of a single creel forming a single warp, that is to say, one
thread for each carriage, in combination with fine bars and a warp beam consisting
also of one threads for each carriage.
Figs. 4 and 5 shew in vertical section, full size, two spools, one of wood, the other
of metal.
Fig. 6 shews the arrangement of the blades of the fine bars extended or prolonged
for the purpose of dispensing with the independent bars and for driving these fine.
bars by means of a jacquard placed immediately above them. This arrangement is
only applicable where it is desired to obtain only spool articles properly so called.
I will now proceed to describe successively the various improvements above
enumerated.
1. The creels. The spools I use are, as before stated, of wood or metal as shewn
in Figs. 4 and 5.
In general, the spools must be, as much as possible, so calculated, as regards form
and weight, that when deprived of any quantity of thread they may always have
an equal unwinding strain. They are mounted on spindles, as usual, and according
to the strength of the thread employed may rest on the bed of the creel, or upon
гр.
11

page_text: glass or metal rings. Where the spool is of metal it is provided at both its ends
with a wooden socket or flange in order to diminish friction when unwinding.
These spools are mounted on two creels A and A', arranged as shewn at Fig. 1
of the drawings, that is to say behind the frame or machine above the place
occupied by the small beams. Each creel or spool board contains as many spools
as there are carriages in the machine, consequently the two creels together form
two threads for each carriage which will constitute a double warp. The lower
creel A is inclined in order to compensate for the increase of tension which the
length of its threads gives to it, and also to allow greater facility to the attendant
for piecing broken threads.
2. Means or system for regulating the tension of the spool threads. The thread
on unwinding from the spool passes immediately between the rods C which are con-
nected together, at suitable distances, so as to form a rigid structure having its
centre of oscillation at c which is the centre of the large rod. The two bars are
likewise retained apart from each other, leaving a space between them of about 3
to 4 sufficient to allow passage to the spool threads. These rods being round
do not chafe the material passing through them.
By causing this rigid structure to turn about the centre of oscillation, the small
rod will be displaced, describing the arc of a circle, the centre of which is at c.
The contact surface of the threads with the rods may thus be more or less varied.
and therefore the tension on the spool threads. The same effect will be thus
obtained as if this increase of tension were produced by an increase of the weights
on the spools. The threads after passing between the double rod C pass through
the glass eyes or loops E, and bear against the rod D to enter, afterwards, in the
plates or bottom wire sley 1 (which are not absolutely necessary) and thence pass
through the fine or bottom bars P to be afterwards passed into the stump bars J
and reach the well or fossé, where the hobbin thread is passed through.
The tension of the threads during their passage from the double rod C to
the plates or wire sley I is also regulated by the distance apart which may be given
to the two rods C and D which, by increasing or diminishing the distance which
separates them, permits of the varying of the tension of the spool threads. The
moveable cross bar H (superseding the shaker bar in spool frames), has for its
object to restore all the movements of the eyes or loops E to the same height so
that the threads shall always have a uniform tension. A weight G is suspended
from these glass eyes or loops by a cord or wire which passes through the wire
sley F provided with holes according to the gauge of the machine. This weight is
so calculated as to be able to impart to the spool bobbins, by means of the regulating
arrangement just described for the tension of the threads, all the necessary tensions
for a good manufacture. This arrangement for regulating the tension of the
threads is suitable for working silk; but if it be desired to make only cotton goods
I believe that the ordinary tension arrangement for spool threads, with a shaker
bar, would suffice.
It will be advantageous for all kinds of lace, which may be made by means of
this invention, to work with tightly stretched spool threads, and to regulate the fall
of the catch-bars in such a manner that it may be as slow as possible in order not
to diminish the tension that has been given to these spool threads.
.
It will thus be seen that, by means of this invention, I regulate the tension of
the spool threads, 1st, by a double rod whose rotation about its centre causes the
varying of the tension of the threads, and the rounded form of which allows knots,
and all defects in the thread, to pass without fraying or chafing the material;
2ndly by the greater or less distance apart of the rods C and D ; and 3rdly by the
combination of the moveable cross bar H (shaker bar) and the weight G, so as to
bring, at each movement, the glass eyes or loops E to the same height so that the
threads shall have a uniform tension.
This creel arrangement permits of the employment of stump bars with holes
double the size of those which now exist, that is to say, that if the gauge of the
frame or machine be 8 points the stump bars will be pierced for a gauge of 4 points,

page_text: so that the thread which is placed into one hole of these stump bars may be varied
to the extent of two carriages instead of one, as now permitted by the existing
stump bars. By varying these bars, as usual, I can obtain grounds and very
perfect open work effects, also extreme fineness and even surface producing rich
and novel effects. The mounting of these stump bars with wide holes necessitates
double the number of stumps, therefore instead of 4, as ordinarily used, 8 are now
necessary. But there may be only 4 of them, by passing two threads through the
same hole. The holes being double the size of those heretofore used permit threads
of medium thickness being varied without catching each other. The combination
of these stump bars with the creels has given good results. It must however be
understood that with this same mounting ordinary stump bars may be used having
holes according to the gauge of the machine.
The mounting above described with reference to Fig. refers entirely to novel
spool articles obtained with a double warp, that is to say 2 threads for each
carriage.
I will now describe the mounting for these same articles with triple warp, that is,
with three threads for each carriage (see Fig. 2).
In this case there is added a warp of one thread for each carriage; this warp is
mounted on a beam or roller M and is traversed from below the distance of one
carriage at each motion, either when rising or when falling. The traverse of this
third warp has the effect of properly ensuring the passages of the threads
obtained with the creels and of permitting the material to resist any further
manipulation.
The small beams c', c', at bottom are employed when it is desired to mix with
these spool articles gimp effects and coarse threads.
The threads of these small beans may be controlled, as usual, by independent
bars.
Fig. 2 shews, likewise in side view, an arrangement for making ordinary Levers'
articles, and substituting creels for the small beams. In this instance the gimp
threads are mounted on the upper creel A. and the coarse threads on the lower one A¹.
This mounting being well known is not here described.
Fig. 6 shews an arrangement in which the jacquard driving the independent bars
is dispensed with.
Let us take a case in which in making the novel spool articles, a large number of
fine bars are at one's disposal, and that it is desired to make bands, strips, or
lengths of great width. In such case the gimp threads and the coarse threads are
dispensed with, and consequently the independent bars, hence the jacquard which
drives them may be removed. Therefore, by dispensing with the independent bars
and the jacquard for driving them, there may be placed, in the now vacant space,
the jacquard cords which actuate the fine bars which will be fixed immediately
above these latter. These cords are attached to the blades forming the extension
to the fine bars, as will thus be readily understood on reference to Fig. 6.
In this manner a great number of cards may be used and all the advantages
arising from the different workings of the jacquard cylinder will be derived there-
from. In this case the stump bars must be driven by cams located on one side of
the machine.
I may, if desirable, employ spool creels with ordinary stump bars pierced
according to the gauge of the machine and driven by the fine bars.
I may also control the threads of these spool creels by independent bars.
Having now described the nature of the invention and in what manner the same
may be performed I claim.
1. The mode of regulating the tensions on the threads, in combination with the
use of independent spool threads arranged to work in conjunction with top and
bottom bars, substantially as described and for the purposes set forth.
2. The employment and arrangement of the two creels, banks, or frames forming
together 2 threads for each carriage, with small beams for gimp threads, coarse

page_text: threads, and threads of exceptional tension, and the application thereof to all kinds
of lace frames or machines, substantially as described and shewn with reference to
the accompanying drawings.
3. The employment and arrangement of the two creels, banks, or frames with
warp beams forming together three threads for each carriage, with rows of small
beams for gimp threads, coarse threads, and threads of exceptional tension,
substantially as described and shewn in the accompanying drawings.
4. The employment and arrangement of the two creels, banks, or frames for
ordinary manufacture on lace machines, substantially as described and shewn with
reference to Fig. 2 of the accompanying drawings.
5. The employment and arrangement of one creel, bank, or frame forming a
single warp, with a beam forming also a single warp, for ordinary spool articles,
substantially as described and shewn with reference to Fig. 3 of the accompanying
drawings.
6. The combination of the creels, banks, or frames, with the arrangement or
means for regulating the tension of the spool threads, consisting of the double rod C
with the rod D, the said rods being movable relatively to each other, substantially
as described and shewn.
7. The combination of the creels, banks, or frames and the rods C and D,
with the movable cross bar H and the weight G, substantially as described and
shewn.
8. The combination of the creels, banks, or frames, the double rod C, the rod D
the cross bars H, and the weight G, with the jacquard for operating the fine or
bottom bars P placed above the same, whereby the independent bars are dispensed
with, substantially as described and shewn.
9. The combination of the creels, banks, or frames and the means or arrangement
for regulating the tension of the spool threads, with the stump bars having holes
double the gauge of the machine, substantially as described and shewn.
10. My improvements in lace frames or machines substantially as described and
shewn and for the purposes set forth.
Dated this 1st day of May 1891.
ERNEST DE PASS,
78, Fleet Street, London, and 6, Victoria Street, Nottingham,
Agent for the Applicant.