Improvements in Machines for Folding and Creasing Handkerchief Stock and other Fabrics.
Year: 1899

page_text: Date of Application, 28th Mar., 1899
Complete Specification Left, 19th Dec., 1899-Accepted, 17th Feb., 1900
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Machines for Folding and Creasing Handkerchief
Stock and other Fabrics.
We, JOHN FRANKLIN CAMERON, Manufacturer, and JAMES AUGHILTREE CAMERON,
Superintendent, both of 62, 7th Avenue, in the City of New York, Borough of
Brooklyn, in the County of Kings and State of New York, United States of
America, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
Our invention is intended for use in folding and pressing down hems upon the
edges of a bolt or roll of fabric preparatory to stitching the same. As an embodi-
ment of our invention we will describe a machine designed to fold and crease
the side edges of a bolt of goods intended for the manufacture of hem-stitched
handkerchiefs. This device has folders which engage the edges of the goods to
turn them over into proper position for making the hem and rollers which
receive the goods and bear upon the folded edges or the hem which has been
previously formed to press the material down so that it will retain its shape
until presented to the sewing machine for stitching.
In the process of making handkerchiefs the material, which is received in a
bolt, is passed through the folders and has its side edges turned by the machine
so as to form a hem and is then passed between heated rollers which iron or
press the material so that the hems will be retained in shape until the material
has been divided into separate handkerchiefs and stitched by the sewing machine.
The bolt of cloth is placed in a support beneath the rear portion of the machine
and first passes upward through guides in a bar which extends across the front
side of the machine and has curved notches adapted to commence the fold at
the edges of the material. The edges of the cloth then pass upward through
second folders where the folds are turned a little more and then through the
last folders adjustably mounted upon boards these folders being duplicated upon
opposite sides of the machine and by engaging the edges of the material, turn
it over in proper position for forming the hem. They may be adjusted for
material of different widths and the boards by which they are supported are
also capable of being adjusted towards and from the centre line of the machine.
The machine is however adapted to operate on material varying in widths between
certain limits, without any adjustment of this sort, as there is considerable open
space between the boards at opposite sides, within which the central portion of
the material may sag, thus accommodating itself to the distance between the
opposite folding guides. It is thus unnecessary to re-adjust the position of
the folders except there is considerable variation in the width of the material.
The material after passing the second folders has the hem formed therein and
the hems then pass between pairs of rollers by which they are pressed or ironed
so that the folds will retain their shape.
The roller is common to the two pairs. It extends across the machine and is
of a length sufficient to operate on handkerchiefs formed of the widest material
used. This roller is turned by means of a belt pulley or by any other suitable
means. The upper rollers of the two pairs are short rollers extending over the

page_text: ends of the lower roller a sufficient distance to make certain of pressing the hems
of the narrowest handkerchiefs with which the machine is to be used. These
rollers are journalled at their outer ends in bearing blocks which are so pivoted
that the rollers may be swung up and down so as to separate them from the lower
roller or bring them in contact therewith. The upper rollers may be turned by
frictional contact with the lower roller or, as preferred, may be positively turned
by means of toothed wheels which are secured to the journals of the lower roller
at points coinciding, as near as possible, with the planes of the pivots of the
bearings of the journals of the upper rollers, the gear wheel being placed between
the ends of the said bearings. The shaft of each upper roller has a sleeve to
which are connected a pair of links connected to a lever fulcrumed beneath a
sleeve upon the shaft of the lower roller. Between the sleeves of the upper and
lower rollers of a pair is placed a spring which normally raises the upper roller
from the lower roller. The lever by which the upper roller is drawn down is
connected with a bar pedal normally elevated by a spring whereby the upper
rollers may be forced downward upon the lower roller when desired. By releas-
ing the pressure the upper rollers will be raised and the material may be readily
adjusted.
The space between the upper rollers accommodate the surplus material and
admits of using them for material of various widths without adjustment. The
lower roller is heated by an atmospheric burner extending beneath it. The
material after passing the rollers is carried upwardly a short distance over a
plate in view of the operator so that the operation of the machine can be directly
supervised. The material is then carried downward upon a table upon one edge
of which is provided a cross cutting or nicking device. The table is provided
with a slot extending inward a short distance from the edge. Upon one edge of
this slot is placed a plate formed of a bed cutter fixed alongside a slot in the
table and forming one member of a pair of shears the other member of which is
pivoted to the table and is coupled by a link with a treadle. A scale may be
marked out on the table leading from the cutting knife by which the size of the
handkerchief may be determined.
For convenience in adjusting the contact of the upper edges of the boards
carrying the folders with the lower roller and to ensure that the contact shall
not be too strong the boards are supported by hinges secured to the frame and
to which the boards are secured by clamping bolts passing through slots in the
boards which admit of lateral adjustment of the boards whilst by means of the
hinges the boards are caused to lightly but surely press on the lower roller.
While we have herein described our device as used for forming and creasing
the edges of stock intended for the manufacture of handkerchiefs, it is obvious
that it may be used for forming similar folds upon the edges of goods designed
for any purpose and we do not therefore wish to be limited solely to its use upon
handkerchiefs, but to be protected in the use of our device for forming and
pressing hems upon fabric of any kind capable of being folded upon our machine
and designed for any use. The particular kind of folders used for forming the
hem is also immaterial and we do not wish to be limited to any particular forms
of folders. It is also obvious that the machine may also be used to form and
crease a hem upon one side only of a piece of goods when the same is desirable.
Dated this 28th day of March 1899.

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Machines for Folding and Creasing Handkerchief
Stock and other Fabrics.
We, JOHN FRANKLIN CAMERON, Manufacturer, and JAMES AUGHILTREE CAMERON,
Superintendent, both of 62, 7th Avenue, in the City of New York, Borough of
Brooklyn, in the County of Kings and State of New York, United States of
America, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement:-
-
Our invention is intended for use in folding and pressing down hems upon the
edges of a bolt of fabric preparatory to stitching the same. An embodiment of
our invention is shown in the accompanying drawings which show a machine
designed to fold and crease the side edges of a bolt of goods intended for the
manufacture of hem stitched handkerchiefs. This device has folders which
engage the edges of the goods to turn them over into proper position for making
the hem, and rollers which receive the goods and bear upon the folded edges
or the hem which has been previously formed to press the material down so that
it will retain its shape until presented to the sewing machine for stitching.
Reference is to be had to the accompanying drawings forming a part of this
specification, in which similar characters of reference indicate corresponding
parts in all the figures.
Figure 1 is a front elevation of our machine as it would be seen from the
side occupied by the operator;
Figure 2 is an elevation and partial section showing a device which may be
used in connection with the machine for nicking the edge of the handkerchief
so that it may be conveniently torn;
Figure 3 is a sectional side elevation; and
Figure 4 is a plan view.
In the process of making handkerchiefs by our preferred method of manu-
facture the material which is received in a bolt is passed through the folders
and has its side edges, turned by the machine so as to form a hem and is then
passed between heated rollers which iron or press the material so that the hems
will be retained in shape until the material has been divided into separate handker-
chiefs and stitched by the sewing machine.
The framework of the machine upon which the operating mechanism is sup-
ported is represented by the letter A. The bolt of cloth is placed in any suit-
able support beneath the rear portion of the machine. It is then led forward
and first passes upward through guides formed in a bar H which extends across
the front side of the machine and is provided with curved notches H' adapted to
commence the fold at the edges of the material. The cloth O then passes upward
through a second folded g where the fold is turned a little more.
It then passes
through the last folder g' which is mounted upon a board G by means of an
arm which is provided with a slot and secured in place by means of a clamp-
ing bolt g³ which passes through said slot and enters the board G. These folders
are duplicated upon opposite sides of the machine, and by engaging the edges
of the material, turn it over in proper position for forming the hem. They may
be adjusted at different distances from each other for use upon material of different
widths and the boards G by which they are supported are also provided with
transversely extending slots R through which pass the securing bolts R¹ so
that the board itself may be adjusted toward and from the centre and the
machine better adapted for handling material of different widths. The machine
is, however, adapted to handle material varying in widths between certain
limits without any adjustment of this sort, as there is considerable open space
between the edges of the boards G upon opposite sides, within which the central

page_text: portion of the material may drop, thus accommodating itself to the distance
between the opposite guides g¹.
The folders or guides which engage the edge of the material are adjusted to a
position corresponding with that necessary for material of the narrowest width.
When it is desired to pass material of a wider width this may be done without
any other adjustment by reason of the fact that the surplus stock will drop down
into the open space between the folders or guides. It is thus unnecessary to re-
adjust the position of the folders g except there is considerable variation in
the width of the material being operated upon.
The material, after passing the folders has the hem J₁ formed therein and
the hems then pass between the rollers and B by which they are pressed or
ironed so that the folds will retain their shape.
The roller C extends across the machine and is of a length sufficient to handle
handkerchiefs formed of the widest material used. This roller is carried on
suitable bearings in the frame A and is turned by means of a pulley O' secured
to one end thereof or by any other suitable means.
The rollers B are short rollers extending over the ends of the roller C³ a
sufficient distance to make certain of engaging the hems of the narrowest handker-
chiefs with which the machine is to be used. These rollers 13 are journalled at
their outer ends in bearing blocks B' which are pivoted upon transversely extend-
ing pivots a so that the rollers may be moved up and down so as to separate
them from the roller C or bring them in contact therewith, as desired. The
upper rollers -13 may be turned by frictional contact with the roller C³, or as
preferred may be positively turned by means of small gear wheels Q which are
secured to the journals of the roller at points coinciding, as near as possible
with the planes of the pivots a.
To accommodate the gears the bearings C¹ of the journals C³ are enlarged
and the hoods B' which furnish the bearings for the journals B³ of the upper
rollers B are also enlarged, the gear wheels being placed between the ends
of the bearings.
The jorrnal B³ of each upper roller Bs is provided with a sleeve B to which
are connected links D which pass downward outside of the journals C³ of
roller C and are pivoted to a lever E. The journals C³ are also each provided with
a sleeve C located beneath the sleeve B and carrying at one end a projection D',
which acts as a fulcrum for the lever E, entering a notch e formed on one end
of said lever. Between the two sleeves B and C is placed a spiral spring S
which normally holds the upper roller away from the lower roller. The lever E
is connected by rods E¹ and E with a bar or rod F which extends across the
machine and is connected with the links E upon both sides of the machine.
This rod F is connected to a pedal F which is pivotally mounted upon a cross
bar F3 and is normally held in elevated position by means of a spring F2. By
this means the upper rollers B may be forced downward upon the roller C² when
desired. By releasing the pressure, the rollers will rise and the material may
be readily adjusted.
By providing a space between the upper rollers Bs the surplus material, which
during the formation of the fold lay in the open space between the two folders,
is readily accommodated and the machine is thus capable of use on material of
various widths without adjustment. The roller C is heated by means of a pipe P
which extends directly beneath the roller and is provided with openings in its
upper edge for the discharge of mixed air and gas. The mixture is supplied
through a pipe P which is connected at its outer end with a rubber tube P,
which supplies the gas and receives its air through the holes p, or in any other
suitable means so that the flame which is produced beneath the roller is a blue
flame which will not soot the roller.
The material after passing the rollers B and C, is carried upwardly a short
distance over a plate I so that it is for a short time in plain view of the operator
and the operation of the machine can thus be directly seen.
This plate is pro-

page_text: vided with ears I' at its edge which prevent the material from escaping. The
material is then carried downward upon the table A' upon one edge of which is
provided the cutting or nicking device which is shown in detail in Figure 2.
The table is provided with a slot a extending inward a short distance from
the edge. Upon one edge of this slot is placed a plate N one edge of which forms
one member of a pair of shears, the other member of which consists of the bent
lever K which is provided with a cutting edge co-operating with the cutting
edge of the plate N. This lever is pivoted at K¹ and has a link L secured to the
end of the lower arm K³ thereof, said link being connected with a treadle L' by
means of which the cutting device may be operated by the foot, leaving the
hands of the operator free to move the material along and measure it. A scale
may be marked out on the table leading from the cutting knife K by which
the size of the handkerchief may be determined. Such a scale is indicated at M
in Figure 4.
For convenience in adjusting the contact of the upper edges of the boards G
carrying the folders, and to insure that the contact shall not be too strong, the
boards are each supported upon a hinge R (Fig. 3) one end of which is secured
to an arm R³ carried by the frame and the other end secured to the board G.
The board is secured to this end of the hinge by the clamping bolt R¹. By this
means the board is caused to lightly but surely press on the lower roller C.
While we have herein described our device as used for forming and creasing
the edges of stock intended for the manufacture of handkerchiefs it is obvious
that it may be used for forming similar folds upon the edges of goods designed
for any purpose and we do not therefor wish to be limited solely to its use upon
handkerchiefs but to be protected in the use of our device for forming and pressing
hems upon fabrics of any kind capable of being folded upon our machine and
designed for any use. The particular kind of folders used for forming the hem
is also immaterial and we do not wish to be limited to the particular forms of
folders herein shown as they represent only one of the forms which may be used.
It is also obvious that our machine may also be used to form and crease a
hem upon one side only of a piece of goods when the same is desirable.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what
we claim is: :-
1. The folders when arranged to form the main support of the stock so as to
allow the fullness of material to bulge or buckle between them, substantially as
described.
2. The creasers (B³) arranged adjacent to the ends of the main roll (C³) and
spaced from each other to allow the fullness of material to bulge or buckle
between them, substantially as described.
3. The spaced creasers carried by shafts movable toward and away from the
main roll, substantially as described.
4. The arrangement of the creasers below the top of the guide (I) for the purpose
of exposing the stock to view after its passage through the creasers, substantially
as described.
5. The hinging of the folder supports so as to swing forward upon the main
roll, substantially as described.
6. The combination of the main roll, a device for heating it, and the spaced
creasers arranged to co-operate with the ends of the main roll, substantially as
described.
AUTH
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A. M. & WM. CLARK,
Chartered Patent Agents, 53 Chancery Lane, London.