IMPROVEMENTS IN AND MACHINERY FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF HAT LININGS PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION
Year: 1882

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Henry Knowles and Joseph Faulkner both
of Denton in the County of Lancaster and Robert Ivy Metcalfe and Wright
Nelson Raines both of Dukinfield in the County of Chester for an
Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN AND MACHINERY FOR THE MANUFACTURE
OF HAT LININGS
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Henry Knowles,
Joseph Faulkner, Robert Ivy Metcalfe and Wright Nelson Raines at the Office
of the Commissioners of Patents on the 21st December 1882.
WILLIAM HENRY KNOWLES and JOSEPH FAULKNER both of Denton in the
County of Lancaster and ROBERT IVY METCALFE and WRIGHT NELSON RAINES
both of Dukinfield in the County of Chester "IMPROVEMENTS IN AND MACHINERY
FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF HAT LININGS"
The object of this invention is to make inside Linings for hats and caps or other
coverings for the head by one stroke out of one piece of silk satin cotton or other
material instead of using two or more pieces as heretoforo and whereby all stitching
and paper are dispensed with and considerable saving is effected not only in the
material but in the time employed in making the lining.
The machine we employ may be described as follows.
On a hollow cast iron circular or other base by means of screws or bolts wo
mount a hollow dome grooved or cut on the outer side to the required pattern
(plain or ornamental). On a cross bar above the dome we suspend a grooved metal
cup of a corresponding shape and pattern to the dome the grooves in this case
being on the hollow or inside of cup this we bring down on the dome by means of
a cross-bar working in slides and actuated by cranks, cams or bevil or spur wheels
or worms and wheels,
The action of this machine is as follows:-The dome being previously heated
with gas Steam or Fire the silk, satin, cotton or other material is placed on the
top of the dome and the grooved cup being brought down upon it or the dome may
be raised to the cup the combined pressure and heat form it into the hollow plected
dome shape required for the linings of hats caps and other head coverings.
"

page_text: In case of intricate designs being needed on the linings so made we propose
instead of using the metal dome or cup of metal to construct the same of india-
rubber or other suitable flexible substance so as to bring the pressure to bear with
more certainty into the pattern engraved or cut on the dome or cup and thus by
changing the domes or cups we can compress the linings to any desired pattern.
It may also be worked with a vertical horizontal or diagonal motion and also
with hand, foot, or strap or rope power.
By taking away the cup from the cross-bar and replacing it by an iron plate
and also covering the dome with an iron bed and using steel cutters or punches we
convert the apparatus into a cutting or punching machine to cut the paper,
silk, satin, cotton or other material into the required shape for working up as
aforesaid.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed
by the said William Henry Knowles, Joseph Faulkner, Robert Ivy Metcalfe
and Wright Nelson Raines in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 21st June
1883.
WILLIAM HENRY KNOWLES and JOSEPH FAULKNER both of Denton in the
County of Lancaster and ROBERT IVY METCALFE and WRIGHT NELSON RAIN[E]S
both of Dukinfield in the County of Chester "IMPROVEMENTS IN AND MACHINERY
FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF HAT LININGS."
The object of this invention is to make inside linings for hats and caps or other
coverings for the head by one stroke out of one piece of silk, satin, cotton or other
material instead of using two or more pieces as heretofore and whereby all stitching
and what is known as papering" are dispensed with and considerable saving
is effected not only in the material but in the time employed in making the
lining.
66
In performing our invention instead of cutting the lining as heretofore out of
two pieces of silk or other lining material as illustrated in diagrams Figs 1 and 2
which necessitates the edges A of Fig 1 being seamed and the other or top edge B
being folded and joined by stitching to the oval folded edges C of Fig 2 whereby
the corners D of Fig 2 are entirely wasted we cut the lining out of one single
piece of material and of an elliptical form as indicated in diagram Fig. 3. This
elliptic piece is then contracted in its outer circumferance and formed into the
desired shape as indicated in diagram Fig 4 by pleating or stamping the outer
edge in a machine as hereinafter described and instead of inserting a paper lining
as heretofore between the outer hat and the inner or silk or other lining to prevent
the color of the outer hat shewing through we use a paper covered with paste (or
with a transparent or other varnish or size which will soften with heat) so that the
pasted or varnished paper and silk or cotton or other lining material being placed in
the machine together will by the combined action of the pressure and heat be

page_text: made to adhere and be consolidated together thus rendering the lining firmer and
more durable.
On the accompanying drawing Fig 5 is a front view and Fig 7 a side view of
the machine we employ for the purpose of this invention.
This machine may be
described as follows:-On a hollow cast iron circular or other base E by means of
screws or bolts we mount a hollow iron or brass dome F grooved or cut on the
outer side to the required pattern (plain or ornamental). On a cross-head G above
the dome we Buspend a grooved metal cup H of a corresponding shape and pattern
to the dome, the grooves in this case being on the hollow or inside of cup and
corresponding to the projections on the dome, this cup we bring down on to the
dome by means of the cross-head G working in slides I. This cross-head G is
actuated by the driving shaft J which is geared to the intermediate shaft K by the
worm Land worm wheel M. At the extremities of this intermediate shaft K are
discs N the crank pins O of which are connected by the connecting rods P to each
extremity of the cross-head. The clutch box Q actuated by the sliding rod S and
handle S serves in case of power being employed to enable the operator to throw
the machine in and out of gear_instantly without disturbing the driving strap
passing round the driving pulley R. The cross-head G is further connected by the
connecting rods T to a treddle U whereby it can be raised and lowered by the
foot of the operator. As a convenient means of heating the dome F wo arrange a
gas jet to burn inside such dome, the pipe for supplying which is indicated by V
and the hole for lighting the same by W.
The action of this machine is as follows:- -The dome F being previously heated
with gas, steam, or fire the silk, satin, cotton or other material in elliptic form as
herein before described is placed on the top of the dome and the grooved cup H
being brought down upon it (or the dome may be arranged to be raised to the cup)
the combined pressure and heat form it into the hollow pleeted dome shape required
for the linings of hats caps and other head coverings.
In case of intricate designs being needed on the linings so made we propose
instead of using the metal dome or cup of metal to construct the same of or to
line the same with india-rubber or other suitable flexible material so as to bring
the pressure to bear with more certainty into the pattern engraved or cut on the
dome or cup and thus by changing the domes or cups we can compress the linings
to any desired pattern. Or an india-rubber bag may be introduced between the
cup (which for this purpose would be enlarged) and the dome and the pressure be
obtained by bydraulic or pneumatic power to produce the requisite pattern upon
the lining
In this manner there is practically no limit to the designs or configurations
which may be embossed as it were upon the linings and which may be of a floral,
geometric, or in fact any required character for instance as indicated in diagram
Fig 5. The dome may also be constructed with removable plates to fit into a
recess at the top and thus the pattern of the tip or crown of the lining can be
changed at pleasure
Instead of arranging the machine as illustrated in Figs 5 and 6 it might be
worked by a vertical horizontal or diagonal motion and be actuated by cams and
bevil or spur wheels and either by hand foot, strap or rope power.
It will thus be apparient that in accordance with this invention we produce hat
linings which are seamless and stitchless and capable of being ornamented to any
desired extent thus entirely dispensing with the use of thread or sewing cotton
which is a considerable item in the manufacture of hat linings also economising
material to a considerable extent and rendering it possible to make at least twenty
perfect linings which are exactly alike in the same amount of time as an ordinary
Hand Trimmer can make one lining upon the old style.
By taking away the cup from the cross-head and replacing it by an iron plate
and also covering the dome with an iron bed and using steel cutters or punches we
convert the apparatus into a cutting or punching machine to cut the paper, silk,

page_text: satin, cotton or other material into the required elliptical shape for working up as
aforesaid.
Having thus particularly described and ascertained the nature of this our said
invention together with the best methods with which we are acquainted for
carrying the same into practical effect we wish it to be distinctly understood that
we do not confine ourselves to the precise details, relative proportions or dimensions
.of the various parts of the mechanism and improved manufacture of hat linings
herein-before described and illustrated on the accompanying drawing as the same
may be considerably varied without departing from the invention but what we do
claim is .:-
1st The improved manufacture of hat linings whereby time and material are
economised and any desired pattern is produced upon the same as herein before
described.
2nd; The general arrangement and,combination of mechanism for the manufacture
of hat linings substantially as hereinbefore described and illustrated on the
accompanying drawing.
"
3rd. The use and application of a dome and cup upon,which the requisite pattern
is formed or engraved and methods of heating and operating the same substantially
as and for the purposes hereinbefore described and illustrated on the accompanying
drawing,
In witness whereof we. the said William Henry, Knowles, Joseph Faulkner,
Robert Ivy Metcalfe and Wright Nelson Raines have hereunto set our
hands and seals this 20th day of June, in the year of our Lord, One Thousand,
Eight Hundred and Eighty Three.·
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