IMPROVEMENTS IN STUDS FOR FASTENING SLEEVES AND SHIRT FRONTS, AND WHICH MAY BE USED FOR FASTENING PURSES, BAGS. And for other PurPOSES
Year: 1878

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Jaines Muirhead, of Glasgow, in the County of Lanark,
North Britain, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN STUDS FOR FASTENING
SLEEVES AND SHIRT FRONTS, AND WHICH MAY BE USED FOR FASTENING PURSES,
BAGS. And for other PurPOSES.”
"
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said James Muirhead at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 8th August 1878.
JAMES MUIRHEAD, of Glasgow, in the County of Lanark, North Britain.
IMPROVEMENTS IN STUDS FOR FASTENING SLEEVES AND SHIRT FRONTS, AND WHICH
MAY BE USED FOR FASTENING PURSES, BAGS, AND FOR OTHER PURPOSES."
This Invention, which relates to certain improvements in studs for fastening
sleeves and shirt fronts, and which may be used for other analogous purposes, is in
part a development of the second modification or construction of such studs described
in the Specification of the said James Muirhead, filed in pursuance of a certain
proviso in Letters Patent, No. 2869, A.D. 1875; in part an improvement in that
construction of such studs wherein a square, flat-sided, or polygonal stem in con-
junction with a spring or springs is used to hold the moveable member of such stud
in one of two positions; and in part also an improvement in that class of studs
wherein the head and fastening portions are separate from one another.
Under the first modification of the present improvements the head of the stud is
formed hollow, so as to contain a ratchet or its equivalent and a spring or springs
which enter the spaces between the ratchet teeth or equivalent recesses, and by
which the moveable and retaining parts of the stud are held either in such position
(that is to say, at right angles to each other), so as to remain in the parts to be
fastened together, or in that other position (that is to say, parallel with one another),
so as to be removable from the parts so fastened.
Under a second modification the head of the stud is also made hollow, so as to
contain either one or more spring arms fastened to the stud at the centre end,

page_text: formed with a projection or projections at the under side of the extremity or extre-
mities thereof. The projection is or the projections are by the action of the spring
arm or arms depressed into recesses formed in a plate attached to the upper side of
the moveable member of the stud, and retains or retain this member in whatever
position it may be turned; or the moveable parts may be made to interlock at the
centre when forced downwards or outwards by a spring.
The third modification of the present improvements relate to that class of studs
wherein the retaining portion and the head are separable, such studs, for example,
as those known as West's, described in the Specification of Letters Patent, No. 359,
A.D. 1874; also as Dowler and Smith's, described in the Specification of Letters
Patent, No. 2688, A.D. 1874; and this part of the improvements consists in the
use of one or more springs acting on a square or partly square or flat-sided portion
of the stem or holder, or upon indents or notches therein or thereon, which when a
sufficient turn is given to the stud head or to the lower part brings the retaining
portions of the stud together, and holds them in that position, the parts being ren-
dered separable when required by turning them backwards.
In the improved studs herein-before described the moveable portion may consist of
two or three vertical bars or wires united together by a cross piece in order to pro-
duce a lighter construction of the moveable portion.
According to another modification the stud is formed of two pieces, that is to say,
a front part, which is made with a shank having a cross piece at its end, and a
second part, which consists of a plate having a stem of a shape corresponding to
that of the cross piece on the shank of the front part, the stem turning upon the
shank, and the plate turning with it in the back of the front part. The plate of the
second part is furnished with projections having rounded ends, which snap by
the springing of their plate (when the second part is turned upon the front part, or
vice versa) into recesses in the back of the front part, so that the stem of the
second part can be retained either with its length in line with the cross piece on
the shank part, that the stud may be withdrawn from the holes in the garment or
article, or with its length at right angles to the length of the said cross piece, so
that the latter holds the stud firmly in the said holes, the recesses in the one part
and the projections on the other being in the relative requisite positions to
effect this.
An essential feature of this modification is that the plate, stem, and projections of
the second part are made from one piece of metal, so that economy and facility of
manufacture is attained; and also the sides of the blank will form slits in the
finished second part, and cause it to act as a spring to retain its projections in the
recesses in the front part.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said James Muirhead in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 8th February
1879.
JAMES MUIRHEAD, of Glasgow, in the County of Lanark, North Britain.
"IMPROVEMENTS IN STUDS FOR FASTENING SLEEVES AND SHIRT FRONTS, AND WHICH
MAY BE USED FOR FASTENING PURSES, BAGS, AND FOR OTHER PURPOSES."
My said Invention relates to certain improvements in studs for fastening sleeves
and shirt fronts, which studs may be used for other analogous purposes, such as
fastening purses or bags, and is in part a developement of the second modification or
construction of such studs described in the Specification filed in pursuance of a
certain proviso in Letters Patent, No. 2869, granted to me, the said James Muir-
head, as of the 14th day of August, A.D. 1875.
Under one modification of my present Invention the head of the stud is formed
hollow, and contains a ratchet or its equivalent and a spring or springs which enters
or enter the spaces between the teeth or projections of the ratchet or equivalent
recesses, so that the retaining parts of the stud are held either in position at right
angles to each other, so as to be retained in the parts which the stud fastens together,
or in position parallel with each other, so as to be readily removeable from the said
parts.
Figures 1 to 7 of the accompanying Drawing represent a stud constructed
according to this modification of my Invention, Figure 1 being a side elevation,
Figure 2 a plan of the under side, and Figure 3 a vertical section (taken on the line
1, 2, Figure 2) of the said stud, shewing the two parts A and B of the stud in posi-
tion, with the retaining parts parallel to each other, that is to say, in position for
insertion into or withdrawal from the hole or holes in the garment or article which
it fastens.
Figure 4 is a plan of the under side shewing the retaining parts in their other
position, that is to say, with the said parts at right angles to each other, or in the
position in which the stud fastens or is fastened in the garment or article.
Figure 5 is a plan of the under side of the top part A of the stud, and Figure 6
is a plan of the inner or top side of the other part B.
Figure 7 is a horizontal section taken on the line 3, 4, Figure 1.
The depending rim of the part A fits over and turns upon the raised rim of the
part B.
The upper part A has soldered or otherwise fixed to it a stem a, which is capable
of turning in the tube b of the part B, and has at its end the shank or cross piece a¹.
In the part A is fixed a ratchet-like piece c, having recesses c¹, c², c³, c', and in the
part B are springs d, secured preferably by one end to the side of the said part, and
formed as shewn, so that they engage with either of the recesses c¹, c³, of the piece c,
as seen in Figure 7, or with the other recesses c², c', to retain the parts either in the
position for fastening the stud in the garment or article, or in the position for with-
drawing it therefrom.
The part B has a shank e somewhat of an elliptical or lozenge figure to fit into
the button-hole.
The stud, having its two parts in the relative positions shewn in Figures 1 and 2,
can readily be inserted into the button-holes of the garment to be fastened. When
inserted by giving a quarter rotation to the upper part A (the part B being held
firmly by its shanke in the button-hole), the springs d are forced by the projections
of the piece c from the two opposite recesses of the piece c with which they were
engaged, and snap into the other two opposite recesses, whereby the tail piece a' is
held in the position, Figure 4, and is retained firmly in the-button-hole.
To remove the stud, a quarter rotation is given to the upper part A (the shank part
e, as before stated, being prevented by the button-hole from partaking of this motion),

page_text: and the parts are thereby brought into the relative position shewn in Figures 1 and
2, when the said stud may be readily withdrawn from the button-holes.
"
Under a second modification the head is made hollow, so as to contain one or
more spring arms fastened to the centre of the stud, and formed with a projection
or with projections at the under side of the extremity or extremities thereof. The
projection is or the projections are by the action of the said spring arm or arms
depressed into recesses formed in a plate attached to the top of that part which is
in the button-hole when the stud is in use, and thereby the two parts of the stud are
retained in position either for insertion or withdrawal.
Figures 8, 9, and 10 represent respectively in side elevation, plan of under side,
and vertical section (taken on the line 5, 6, Figure 9) a stud constructed according.
to this part of my Invention, with the parts A and B in their relative positions for
insertion or withdrawal.
Figure 11-is a plan corresponding to Figure 8, but shewing the parts in the
relative positions which they assume when fastened into the garment or article.
The parts A and B are the same as in the arrangement illustrated in Figures 1 to 7,
but the retaining of the parts in their relative positions is effected by the spring f
shewn separately in side and end elevation respectively in Figures 12 and 13.
Figure 14 is a plan of the upper side of the part A with the ornamental top
removed.
'Figure-15 is a plan of the upper side of the part B.
The spring is secured at its middle to the centre of the part A by being rivetted
to the stem of that part or otherwise, as may be convenient, and its free ends f¹,
which are turned downwards at right angles to the body part, and are rounded, as
shewn in Figure 13, project through and from slots g¹ in the plate g of the part A
(see Figures 10 and 14). In the plate h of the part B are two pairs of slots h', h²,
h3, h4, into one pair of which the ends f' of the spring f snap to retain the parts
either in their relative positions for insertion or withdrawal, or for fastening. In
inserting this fastening into the button-holes of the garment or article which it is to
fasten, the parts are in the position shewn in Figures 8 and 9, so that it may be
passed into the said holes, and then a motion of partial rotation is given to the part
A, as in the previous arrangement, this motion causing the end f' of the spring f to
rise from the two slots h¹, h³, in the plate h, and ride over the solid portion of the
said plate until they come over the two other slots h3, h4, when they snap thereinto,
and retain the parts of the stud in the positions into which they have been
brought.
In place of using a spring with two arms it will be evident that a spring with
but one arm or with with more than two arms may be employed.
Figures 16 and 17 represent respectively in the two different positions plans of
the under side of a stud made according to the above modification, but in which a
spring fhaving four arms is employed; Figure 18 is a vertical section taken on the
line 7, 8, Figure 10; and Figure 19 is a plan of the top of the part A with the orna-
mental head removed.
The parts have the same relative positions as have those of the arrangement,
Figures 7 to 15, and are marked with the same letters of reference, but the arms of
the spring fare provided with hemispherical or rounded projections f' on their
under sides, which pass through the openings g¹ in the plate g of the part A, and
snap into the corresponding depressions h¹, h2, h3, h4, in the plate h of the part B.
Figures 20 and 21 represent the spring f separately in plan and elevation respec-
tively. The parts may be secured together, as shewn in the section, Figure 18,
horns upon the shank a being passed through corresponding holes in the plate
spring f, and turned over, as shewn.
and
In order to produce a lighter construction of stud the shank e of the part B,
instead of being of one piece of sheet metal, may consist of two or more vertical bars
or wires which connect the plates h and i of the part B, as shewn in side elevation
in Figure 22, where the said wires. are marked j..

page_text: Figures 23 to 30 represent a stud constructed according to another modification
of my Invention, Figure 23 being an elevation, Figure 24 a plan of the under side,
and Figure 25 a vertical section taken on the line 9, 10, Figure 24, shewing the
parts in position for insertion or withdrawal.
Figure 26 is a plan corresponding to Figure 24, but shewing the parts in the
position they assume when fastened in the garment or article.
Figure 27 is a plan of the under side of the part A with the spindle removed.
Figures 28, 29, and 30 are respectively a plan of the under side, an elevation, and
a transverse section (taken on the line 11, 12, Figure 28) of the part B.
The stud is formed of two parts A and B, as in the preceding arrangements, that
is to say, the front part A with a shank a having a cross piece a¹ at its end, and the
second part B consisting of a plate h having a stem or shank e of a shape corre-
sponding to that of a cross piece on the shank of the front part, the stem a turning
in the shank e. The plate h of the part B has in it two indentations, forming upon
its upper side projections h1, h2, having rounded ends, and the back plate g of the
part A has indentations g¹, g², g³, g, for the projections h', h³, to engage in. These
depressions in the part A and projections on the part B are in such relative position
that when the said projections in the part B are engaged with one of the pairs of
depressions in the part A, the parts of the stud are in the relative positions shewn
in Figures 23 and 24, that is to say, the position necessary for allowing of their
being inserted into the button-holes of the garment or article, and when so inserted
the parts may be moved into their holding position (the position shewn in Figure
26) by turning the part A of the stud, as before described with regard to, the other
arrangements, through a portion of a revolution. The recesses in the part A, with
which the projections in the part B were engaged, ride over the said projections, and
when the other pair of recesses of the part A come over the projections of the part
B, they engage together by the springing of the plate h.
The plate h, stem e, and projections h¹, h², constituting the part B, are stamped
out from one piece of elastic or spring metal by dies and pressure or percussion, so
that economy and facility of manufacture are attained, and also the side of the blank
will form slits e' in the finished part B, and cause it to act as a spring to retain its
projections in the recesses of the part A.
It will be evident that other number of projections and recesses than that shewn
may be employed if desired.
Instead of the projections being on the part B and the recesses in the part A,
they may be reversed, that is to say, the projections may be on the part A and
the recesses in the part B. This part B, constructed as described, may be applied to
the arrangements illustrated in Figures 8 to 15 and Figures 16 to 21.
Where a larger retaining surface is desired than is afforded at the back of the
stud by the cross piece a', the said cross piece may have an additional piece thereon
analogous to what is set forth and shewn in the Drawings of my aforesaid Specifi-
cation, No. 2869, A.D. 1875, as shewn at a² in Figures 31 and 32, which represent
respectively a plan of the under side and side elevation of the stud in position for
insertion and withdrawal.
Figure 33 is a plan corresponding to Figure 31, shewing the parts in their
retaining position.
A piece e², similar to the piece a², is also fixed to the part B, so that when the
parts of the stud are in the position, Figures 31 and 32, the piece e² lies under the
piece a², and allows of the ready insertion of this part of the stud into the garment
or article; and when inserted, by giving the top part A a motion of partial rota-
tion (in this case through half a circle), the piece a² is brought from over the
piece e² into the position, Figure 33, and the stud is secured in position. I thus
obtain a retaining piece in the form of a complete circle, as in my aforesaid
Specification.
I lay no claim in this present Specification to these pieces a² and e² separately
from the studs constituting my present Invention.

page_text: Although my improved studs are especially suited for being passed through
button-holes for the purpose of fastening parts of a garment together, yet they may
be used for fastening purses or bags, and for other similar purposes.
Figure 34 represents in section a portion of a purse with either of the studs
described with reference to Figures 1 to 21 applied as a fastening, the purse being
here represented unfastened.
Figure 35 is a similar section representing the purse closed.
Figure 36 is a side view shewing a portion of the purse when closed.
The parts of this fastening are marked with letters corresponding to those which
are employed to mark similar parts in the aforesaid Figures 1 to 21.
The part B is secured to one side of the frame of the purse, and the head of the
part A may be pulled to facilitate the turning it. The shank e passes through a
slot in this side of the frame, and when the purse is closed the cross piece a¹ passes
through a long slot in the other side of the frame of the purse; by now giving a
portion of a rotation to the part A the cross piece a¹ is brought into the position,
Figures 35 and 36, and the purse is fastened.
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of my said Inven-
tion, and the system, mode, or manner in or under which the same is or may be used
or practically carried into effect, I would observe in conclusion that what I consider
to be novel and original, and therefore claim as the Invention secured to me by the
herein-before in part recited Letters Patent is,―
First. The arrangement or combination of parts constituting the stud or fastening
represented in and described with reference to Figures 1 to 7 (both inclusive) of the
accompanying Drawings.
Second. The arrangement or combination of parts constituting the stud or
fastening illustrated in and described with reference to Figures 8 to 15 (both inclu-
sive) of the accompanying Drawings; also the modification illustrated in and
described with reference to Figures 16 to 21 (both inclusive) of the accompanying
Drawings.
Third. The combination of parts constituting the stud or fastening illustrated in
and described with reference to Figures 23 to 30 (both inclusive) of the accom-
panying Drawings.
Fourth. Forming the second part (B) of the stud in one piece, so that it constitutes
a spring, as herein-before described, and illustrated in Figures 28, 29, and 30 of the
accompanying Drawings.
In witness whereof, I, the said James Muirhead, have hereunto set my hand
and seal, this Twenty-ninth day of January, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and seventy-nine.
JAMES MUIRHEAD. (L.S.)