IMPROVEMENTS IN GARMENTS FOR LADIES', GENTLEMEN'S, AND CHILDREN'S WEAR
Year: 1865

page_text: PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by Julius Singer at the Office of
the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 8th February
1865.
I, JULIUS SINGER, of Watling Street, in the City of London, Tailor, do
hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
GARMENTS FOR LADIES', GENTLEMEN'S, AND CHILDREN'S WEAR," to be as follows:-
According to my improvements in trowsers the buttons and braces may be
entirely dispensed with; and instead of being fastened with a fly in front they
are opened at the sides and fastened behind and in front by either long tabs or
straps and buckles, or with belts or elastic bands, or other suitable fastenings,
the tabs from the under part being fastened in front, while those from the
front part fasten behind; one or more extra fastenings or tabs can be added
when desired, so as to constitute a belt necessary for a corpulent man), either
the front lapping over the back or the back over the front buttons, and button
holes can be used, if desired, instead of buckles. I form an imitation fly in
front, which has this advantage that the cloth in front is preserved by avoiding
frequent buttoning and unbuttoning. These trousers are most valuable to
military men, especially those who have much stooping.
A further improvement relates to pockets made in these trousers, which
are applicable for all garments, being so constructed that the contents are

page_text: guarded against loss and thieves. I make pockets double, that is to say,
with a lining somewhat shorter than the pocket, and with an opening at the
bottom contracted by elastic webbing. Anything inserted in the pocket is
pushed through the contracted opening, and can only be got out by expanding
the opening by the hand.
My first improvement in waistcoats consists in the lower part of the back
being out of such shape that it covers the loins and protects them from cold, and
with elastic or other straps or fastenings affixed at the sides makes the back fit
smooth and gives comfort to the wearer. The collar I stitch to the fore part,
which it keeps better in shape, especially in washing materials; I make the
collar so that it can be folded inwards and worn for dress to show the shirt,
or buttoned up for business wear; in either case the waistcoat presents the
roll collar, which is stitched on the front, or it may be an imitation one.
My second improvement in waistcoats consists in having them closely sewn
up in front, which preserves the edge buttons and button holes by avoiding
frequent buttoning and unbuttoning; button holes can be used if it opens
down the middle of the back, while it fastens behind both there and at the
back of the neck. The neck fastening may be regulated so as to render the
waistcoat longer or shorter. The fastenings consist of straps, elastic bands,
buttons, buckles, or any suitable fastening. This may either be a double or
single waistcoat, and lappets may fold inwards so that it can be worn more
or less open. The outer lappets are stitched to the front.
My third improvement in waistcoats consists in sewing them close in the
front and making the opening at the sides, that is to say, with the back
separate from the front, and fastened in front and back by means of elastic
bands, straps, or any suitable fastening attached to the fore part and back.
The front and back are united on the shoulders and a slit is formed at the
back of the neck, which may be fastened by a stud, button, or elastic. strap.
The principle on which this vest is constructed is also applicable to ladies' and
children's garments, especially stays. The tabs or straps for fastening the
back and front are broad at the fixed ends, and long, so as to fasten under the
front of vest, while those from the front pass behind and over the back of
the vest.
My fourth improvement in waistcoats consists in making an opening behind
down the middle, and fastening them at the sides by means of elastic bands,
straps, or long tabs with buttons, buckles, or any suitable fastening. All the
waistcoats sewn close up the front have button holes or imitations and buttons,
so as to present the front of a waistcoat as in ordinary.

page_text: Another improvement in dress consists in forming a box plait in a ladies
jacket, for instance, passing under the arm and sleeve and down the sides,
having an elastic webbing inserted throughout, which causes it to contract
and close, but gives ease and comfort to the wearer, inasmuch as it will lap over
or expand when tight, and may be further ornamented by elastic loops and
buttons. The same improvement is applicable to gentlemen's and children's
clothes.