IMPROVEMENTS IN LOOMS FOR WEAVING FIGURED AND ORNAMENTED FABRICS
Year: 1837

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, MOSES
POOLE, of the Patent Office, Lincoln's Inn, in the County of Middlesex,
Gentleman, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date at West-
minster, the Fifth day of December, in the first year of Her reign, did, for
Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the said Moses
Poole, Her especial license, full power, sole privilege and authority, that I, the
said Moses Poole, my exors, adiñors, and assigns, or such others as I, the
said Moses Poole, my exors, admors, or assigns, should at any time agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times during the term of
years therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within England, Wales, and the Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, the
Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN LOOMS FOR WEAVING FIGURED AND ORNAMENTED
FABRICS," as communicated to me by a certain Foreigner residing abroad; in
which said Letters Patent is contained a proviso that I, the said Moses Poole,
shall cause a particular description of the nature of the said Invention, and in
what manner the same is to be performed, to be inrolled in Her said Majesty's
High Court of Chancery within six calendar months next and immediately
after the date of the said in part recited Letters Patent, as in and by the
same, reference being thereunto had, will more fully and at large appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the sail
Moses Poole, do hereby declare the nature of the Invention, and the manner

page_text: in which the same is to be performed, are fully described and ascertained in
and by the following statement thereof, reference being had to the Drawings
hereunto annexed, and to the figures and letters marked thereon, that is to
say,-
The Invention consists in applying that description of apparatus known as !
Jacquard machinery to power looms, whereby I am enabled to produce
figured fabrics of silk, cotton, hemp, flax, or other fabric, by means of steam
-or other power. And it should be remarked, that although various arrange-
ments of apparatus and machinery for weaving and controlling the mode of
-laying the threads of a fabric by the employment of perforated cards, according
to the invention of Jacquard, have been made and employed, and although
there are various descriptions of looms worked by steam or other power, up to
the time of this Invention the using a series of perforated cards, in order to
govern the pattern to be woven in a loom, has not been obtained to looms
worked by power, and this Invention is the first wherein the benefits of the
Jacquard system of weaving has been combined with power weaving.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWING..
Figure 1 represents a longitudinal or side elevation of a loom.
Figure 2 a front view in elevation.
:
In the two Figures the same letters indicate similar parts. I would
remark that in this description the ground work of the fabric is con-
>sidered as made from eight heddles, the appearance of what is called satin.
If the ground work of the fabric be different, then the arrangement will vary;
but I have thought it best to render my description more clear by supposing
the loom shown with a known description of fabric. A is a pulley or drum
which receives motion from a steam engine, or other suitable power, by a strap.
To the axis of the drum or pulley A are attached to the crank arms B, to which
are attached two connecting rods C, which communicates the motion of the
lay D in such manner that it strikes as many times as the pulley A makes
revolutions, as will readily be traced in the Drawing. The motion of the
Jay D will determino the rolling of the fabric upon the cloth or work beam as it
is made, and also the unrolling or giving off of the warp, according as the fabric
is made and wound on the beam. E is the roller or beam upon which the
fabric is rolled; on the axis of this roller is a wheel F, which takes into G,
with a pinion upon the same axis as the toothed wheel H. Upon the axis of
this toothed wheel H is a lever I, to the end of which are attached catches or
drivers J, which catch into the wheel H, and resting by another arm upon a
roller K placed upon a lever L, the axis of which is below the axis of the

page_text: there is
toothed wheel H. A rod N joins the end of this lever L to the lay D;
also another rod O for the purpose of holding the lever L at the height
required. To the lever I is attached a weight P by means of a cord or rod Q,
which constantly keeps the drivers J in contact with the toothed wheel H. It
will be seen that at each motion of the lay D the lever L will be raised by the
rod N, and that its roller K will raise in its turn the arms of the lever I, which
rest upon it. This movement will lower the arms of the lever I which supports
the catches J; these catches will be removed from the teeth of the wheel H,
and fall into other teeth placed lower down, but when the lay D returns back-
ward the lever L will be lowered. Its pulley K will not raise the arms of the
lever I, in consequence of the weight P forcing it to descend, but the arms
which support the drivers J will raise and move the wheels H a number of
teeth equal to those which the drivers J have before descended during the
motion of the lay D. During the forward motion of the lay D a catch R holds
the toothed wheel H. This catch moves on its axis at S. The motion which
the wheel H has received from the drivers J is communicated by the pinion G
to the wheel F, fixed upon the axis of the rollor E, which consequently rolls on
a quantity of fabric in proportion to the relative diameters of the wheels H and
F, and the pinion G, also to the number of teeth which the drivers J have gone
over in falling. This may be regulated at will, and the fabric may be more or
less pressed, and the roller E may roll a greater or smaller quantity of fabric
at each stroke of the lay D. The more the pinion G is worked the less the
fabric will be pressed. The strength of the fabric may be varied by regula ing
the length of the rod N, which connects the lever L to the lay D. Thus, if this
rod be lengthened, the lay D will not raise the lever L so high, hence so great
a motion will not be communicated to the lever I, and the drivers J will not
take so many teeth from the wheel H, and the fabric will be more pressed or
beaten up, seeing that it will be rolled less quickly. The winding up of the
fabric causes a corresponding unwinding of the warp T, below which is the
roller U, attached to which are two straps V, V, which are twisted several
times round the roller U, and afterwards to the levers X, X, which move on
their axes at Y, and to which are fixed the weight Z, which stretches, more or
less, the straps according as they are removed from the axis Y. The tention of
these straps V determines the tension of the warp, but this tension must not
be carried far enough to prevent the two ends of the rollers U from sliding in
the straps which surround them, for it is the friction of these straps which
keep the warp stretched to the proper point, and the friction which yields to
the drawing operation upon the warp of the rolling of the fabric upon the
roller E. A' is a small roller, over which passes the warp threads as they leave

page_text: tho roller U. It is capable of being raised or lowered by means of its
support B', which are fixed in grooves or slots C', which allows the warp
to be placed at the height of the harness. D', D', D', are three roods to keep
the threads in the proper place, from thence the warp engages in the har-
ness E of the Jacquard, then further in the heddles X, X, and then into
the rood of the lay G', from whence it is formed into fabric by the roof
from a shuttle in the ordinary manner, it comes to the cross bar H', from
whence it descends to the roller E.
I will now describe the application of those parts of apparatus known by the
name of Jacquard, shewn in the Drawing, which in hand-loom weaving is well
known, and consists of governing the mode of actuating the warp threads of
the fabric by means of a series of perforated cards, in order to obtain-patterns
or devices in damask, silk, and other weaving, according as the number of
threads are brought up or kept down at the successive crossings of the shuttle.
I', I', are leads, which keep the cord J, J, of the harness of the Jacquard
constantly stretched. The weight of these leads varies according to the quality
of fabric being made, as is the case in ordinary Jacquard looms, and as is
well understood. The cards J, J, pass at first through a board pierced with
holes K', K', (called by some the holy board) beyond which a single cord is
joined to a great number, according to the pattern to be woven. The
cords M', M², which join this group of cords, pass in their turn through a
second board pearced with holes L', L'. To retain them in the body of the
Jacquard, each of them passes through the eye of an horizontal needle N
These needles are made of iron wire, No. 18, 14, or 15, according to the length
required; after having gone through the eye of the needle the threads pass
through the holes of a third board, below which they are retained each by a
knot. Each cord M' has besides another knot about an inch above the needle,
through which it passes, and to it are fixed the teeth of a comb, the use of
which is to raise those of the threads which the action of the needles with the
cards has brought up. P, P, are the catches, turn at each change of the
pattern cards. The object of the lower catch is to turn the cylinder O', and on
the contrary way, when that is necessary, by means of the cord Q' and the
pulley R. This cord Q' is held by the workman who is attending to the
loom, and tied in a knot. When the cylinder ought to turn round the contrary
way it is retained in a notch, which brings the lower catch into contact with the
Jacquard cylinder, and produces the desired result, and as is well understood.
'S, S', are the pattern cards pierced with holes, coming in contact with the cylin-
der O' to produce the pattern. They are brought up in the form of an endless
'chain, and pass over the rollers T', T', which guide them. They are supported by

page_text: two straps of leather U', U', and can be so arranged as to be brought up to
the cylinder in regular succession. The boy who superintends the loom can
easily regulate (with his hand) the ascent of the pattern cards as brought up.
V is a lever which communicates motion to the Jacquard. The connecting
rod X' connects this lever to the countermarche Y, and passes by the side of
the selvage of the warp. Another rod connects the treadle Z' of the cylinder O'
to the same countermarche Y, and the weight of the treadle Z' is balanced by
a weight acting on the lever W; and to render the motion of this treadle Z¹
more regular the end of it is fixed within a groove. It turns on its axis at A³.
When the cylinder O' is pushed against the needles N', the holes of the pattern
cards remain in place of the needles which have penetrated, but the whole of
the same pattern cards will again put the needles in contact with them, and
will draw the cords M', M', which traverse them, and secure their knots on
the teeth of the comb. When the lever V' is put in motion by means of the con-
necting rod X' of the countermarche Y', which is attached to the treadle Z',
it produces the fabric, the pattern being formed by the pierced card, the whole
of the pattern cards being brought into action. D' is a bar of iron upon which
is fixed the lever V, which turns upon its two ends at F, E. F' is another
lever fixed upon the bar D³, and connected at one end by a moveable rod G'
moving upon an axis; the other end of this rod G³ is attached to H³ by means
of an axis to another rod I. A roller H is adapted to the point of junction
between these two rods. The rod I is connected to the frame which carries
the cylinder O, and the inclined plane J' receives the roller H³. The other arm
of the lever F is connected with the framework which carries the comb C*,
and raises that when the first arm descends; but it is evident that if the lever V¹
is drawn from above to below, the lever F will equally move in the same way,
and determine also a corresponding movement of the rod G³, of the roller H*
upon the inclined plane J* of the rod I, one of the frames of the cylinder O'
and that the cylinder will remove the needles N'. If the movement of the
lever V¹ takes place in a contrary way, then the cylinder O¹ will be pushed
against the needles, and it will be perceived that while the cylinder O¹ removes
the needles, one of the catches P' will turn and place a fresh card before the
needles N. The inclined plane J has no other advantage than regulating
the movements of the Jacquard. The frame which supports the cylinder O'
turns at K at the top of the loom, and is regulated by at the top of the
loom, and is regulated by screws in such a manner that the holes are
brought directly in contact with the needles. The lower part of the
Jacquard rests at L, L'; at the top of the loom are the screws and nuts, the
use of which is to keep the cylinder O¹ fixed after it has received its rotatory
motion from the catches P'. N is a rod suspended from the top of the

page_text: Jacquard, having a weight at the lower end, the object of which is to force
back (during the backward motion of the cylinder O¹) the needles which have
been brought forward during the forward motion. It moves on an axis O',
nevertheless, if it always remains in contact with the needles the force will be
very strong. But it is not required when they are not forced back by the 5
recoil of the cylinder O'. An extension of this rod is shewn at P, which
descends and meets the rod 1', which has a small projection Q³, which, in the
recoil of the rod I, forces behind the lengthened piece P³, and consequently
forces back the needles, against which it strikes, by its own weight, when the
rod I advances to force the frame of the cylinder O. R³ is a small horizontal 1
plate containing several small rollers, over which the cords M³ are brought
towards the middle of the loom, that the cords of the warp near the selvage
may be raised as high as those of the middle of the warp. The higher the
Jacquard is placed above the loom the better.
I will now show how the loom acts upon the Jacquard when in motion.
The wheel S' is shewn separately at Figures 3 and 4, and is mounted upon
an axis T'; during its revolution it depresses the treadle of the cylinder,
because the circumference is always in contact with the roller U*, which
carries the treadle Z and produces a corresponding motion to the Jacquard
by means of the rod X' and the lever V, and consequently raising the warp
threads in contact with the cords which are taken hold of by the needles, but
at each revolution of the wheel S, the roller U falls into the hollow of the
wheel, in the position shewn at Figures 1 and 3; the cords descends again
and with them the warp threads which were raised at the same time. A new
pattern card replaces the one that was taken, and when the wheel S continues
its revolution, depresses the lever Z'; the warp threads in contact with the
pattern cards are raised during each revolution of the wheel S. The treadle
V moves on its axis at A³, seen at Figure 1, and the countermarche moves on
its axis at B, shewn at Figure 2. Each cord is connected to its counter one
by a cord C. Two other threads or wires D³ are attached to the levers E³,
which are also connected to the lever G³ by means of the rod F³. To the other
end of this lever G³ are suspended weights H', the action of which tends
constantly to raise the heddles X, which, without this, the weight of the
treadle and the counter treadlo would let down. The weights H³ are kept in
their vertical position by means of guides I. It will be evident that when
the bar Vis lowered it will draw down, by means of the arrangements
described, the cords with which it is in contact, and the bar ceases to act; the
cords are raised by the weight H' acting through the means of levers and
cords which are in connection with this. The treadle Y is kept in the same
direction by grooves which are cut in the framework J. The cross bar K* is

page_text: to support the axis A' of the lever Z' of the cylinder, and which of regulation
to the arms of the lever of this treadle to regulate the angle of the warp
threads, and to give the shuttle room enough to work in. The longer this arm
is the greater will be the space of the warp threads, and the contrary.
I will now explain the manner in which the heddles X' are put in action by
the treadle V' and the opposite bar Y. Upon the axis of the loom T* are
placed eight cams L³, which are acted upon by the treadle V, which lowers
them in proper order. It is with this design that they are placed spirally on
the axis T; they are shown more clearly at Figure 10. By this arrangement
may be obtained all the positions required according to the fabric to be made.
A projection M³, placed upon each treadle V, receives the action of the cam
which belongs to this marche. The circumference of this secondary axis T* is
divided into nine equal parts, eight of which are occupied by a cam L³; the
ninth part corresponds to the opening of the wheel S'; the heddles X* at the
bottom of the fabric do not move, and there is no warp thread to raise.
Motion is communicated to the axis T by means of the wheel S, shewn on
this axis, and the pinion O³, shewn on the axis Ps, which receives motion
from the pulley A. The number of teeth in the pinion O³ is nine times less
than the wheel S³, consequently it makes nine revolutions while the wheel S'
is making one. In the axis Ps is attached two cranks, to which are grooved
two bars C, joined at the other end to the lay D, so that each revolution of
the axis Ps, or the pinion O³, will strike once the lay D, or nine times during
one revolution of the largo wheel S. But it is necessary to remark, that for
the satin ground chosen (for example) eight strokes of the shuttle ought to be
thrown for each change of pattern card; and during the changing of a pattern
for another the shuttle should remain at rest, and consequently the ninth
stroke of the lay D should take place without giving motion to the shuttle.
For example, the lay D is suspended in the ordinary manner from the top of the
loom. The shuttle driver Q is adapted to the sword K' of the lay D by means
of the crutch S, and carrying the leather strap Us, which is joined and moves
the farther it is raised. Motion is communicated to Q3 by the wheel V³
working upon the axis T. One of these wheels is shewn separate at Figure 5.
They are divided into nine equal parts, four of which are sunk, and the other
five are projected in the form of teeth; the fifth is joined to the fourth, and
makes a double-sized tooth. A lever X³, moving on an axis Y*, rests upon
each of these wheels Vs, and brings to the point of contact with these wheels a
projection Z, which, when brought to a projection in the wheel, raises the
lever, and, when in the notch, lowers it, so that the rotary motion of the
wheels V³ raises or lowers alternately the lever X³, so that one of these levers
is raised whilst the other is lowered, except when the two projections of

page_text: the two wheels Y act together at the end of their revolutions, and
hold together the two levers at the same time, which takes place at every
ninth revolution of the pinions 0%. On the axis P³, at the end of each
lever is joined a rod W, which is connected to a dog A', which is attached
to the framework of the loom in such a way that it may easily move
when lever X is raised or lowered. In front of the dog A' is adapted to the
sword of the lay D, a mechanical arrangement B', represented separate,
Figure 6, and which I call a triangle. This triangle will make alternately a
circular and a horizontal movement upon an axis at C on which is placed a
small projection D'. It will be seen that when one of the levers X³ is raised
by the projection of the wheels V³, the corresponding dog A, which is in
connection with it, will also be raised, and, on the contrary, it is lowered when
the levers X fall into the notches of the wheel V. In the Drawing the
dog A* is shewn as lowered, and the recoil of the lay D will move against
the projection D* of the triangle B', which will cause it to turn quickly upon
its axis C', and to draw at the same time the leather strap Us which is joined
to the shuttle driver, which in its turn acts upon the shuttle in the ordinary
manner. A spring E brings back the shuttle driver to its place after having
thrown the shuttle. According to the arrangement of the wheels V³, one of
the shuttle drivers is left at rest while the other is in motion, and that they
both are at rest when the large projection on the wheels V act at the same
time upon the levers X'. At this moment the shuttle is not thrown, and it is
at this time that the wheel S produces a change of the pattern cards, that is
to say, at every ninth revolution of the moveable axis Ps. The movement of
the lay D, given at this time, has no effect upon the fabric being made, for the
comb, not meeting with any material to work, does not produce any effect, its
course being limited by the length of the treadle C. The force of the stroke
which receives the shuttle may be regulated by increasing or diminishing the
dength of the leather strap Us, or by any well-known mechanical means.
From the foregoing description it will be evident that variations may be
made in the various parts, both as to the power loom and the arrangement of
apparatus for bringing up a succession of perforated cards to work suitable
needles or such like instruments for governing the warp threads by means of
such perforated cards. I would therefore have it understood that 1 lay no
claim to the separate parts, nor do I confine myself to the preciso arrangement
of the parts, so long as the object of my Invention, that of combining the
system of Jacquard weaving with power weaving, as above explained.
Having now described my Invention in machinery, by means of which I
can cause Jacquard machinery to be worked by steam or other power, as
represented in the Drawing, Figures 1 and 2, the arrangement thus far

page_text: being proper for working with treadles to produce what weavers call the ground
of the fabric, which treadles are increased or diminished in number according
to the quality or sort of fabric to be made, as is well understood in hand
Jacquard looms. These treadles, when used, make the ground of the pattern,
the figure or design being made by the perforated cards. I will now proceed
to show that I can make any pattern whatever without using the treadles
represented in the Figures 1 and 2, and that with the cards only. It is well
understood that in all figured looms worked by the Jacquard, by which a
pattern is made on the cloth (when treadles are used for the ground of the
fabric) that there is always three or more threads of warp thread passed into
each mail, so called. These threads are passed through the front leaves
or treadles single. Now when the Jacquard machine, by means of the cards,
lifts up a certain portion of the warp yarn, according to the pattern required
to be produced to the fabric, there will be three or more threads of warp
lifted of the same thing, or according to the number of each mail, and if, for
instance, there was an eight-leafed satin, there would be eight threads of weft
given to each card of the design before any change of pattern would take
place, the same as represented in the Drawing, Figures 1 and 2. Now, I
would remark, that my principle object in using treadles for the ground of the
fabric is because a loom mounted with treadles does not cost so much for
cards, leads, pattern, &c., (but it must be here observed that the pattern or
fabric will not be so beautiful as if one thread only was passed through each
mail, and one thread of weft given to each of the pattern. In the Drawings
Figures? and 8 is shewn a loom which will make any pattern by the cards
only without using heddles. I would here remark, that my machinery, giving
movement to all forms of Jacquard, I have not thought it necessary to represent
a different form of Jacquard from that represented in the Drawings, Figures 1
and 2, considering such arrangement being as I believe the best. I have
marked the same letter of reference used in Figures 1 and 2 in the loom repre-
sented in Figures 7 and 8. In this arrangement only one thread is passed into
each mail, and only one thread of weft given to each card of the pattern;
such thread of warp can be lifted independently. It will follow, that if it be so
arranged as to make one half of the cards with holes, it would produce a piece
of plain fabric, because half of the warp is lifted alternately. If, on the other
hand, the cards be perforated one fourth, the result will be twilled fabric, and
so on. The loom represented in Figures 7 and 8-gives two blows or strokes
to the lay to each thread of weft, one open and the other when the-machine
nearly returned to its original position, by which means a much better fabric
can be obtained, particularly if the fabric is of fine threads, or yarns of silk
or woollen. By means of the Invention I have obtained the same motions

page_text: as of the ordinary hand Jacquard loom. A, in Figure 7, is the cog wheel;
B, the pinion of the same, as represented in Figures 1 and 2. The wheel A
has four times as many teeth as the pinion B, or what is called four to one.
Now it is evident that the pinion B must revolve four times for once of the
wheel A. This loom is represented to give two blows of the lays to each
thread of weft. The shuttle is only thrown every other revolution of the
pinion B. The shuttle motion is governed on the same principle as represented
in the Drawings, Figures 1 and 2. On the shaft on the loom will be seen
an excentric X, which is divided into four parts, two parts of which are
cut out in opposite directions, as represented at K, K, in Figure 7, this
eccentric X being fast on the shaft of the loom, as represented in the Drawing.
When the loom is put in motion the excentric X will give motion to the
Jacquard machine by means of the treadle O and roller G. This eccentric
is represented in that position in which it would be when the loom was at
rest. At Figure 9 is a pulley with two holes in the arms in opposite directions,
shown at i, i, in which holes are slide pins V, V, which pins are forced
forward or backward at will by means of a lever arranged in a convenient
place for the weaver's hand. Another wheel Z is made fast on the extremity
of the driving shaft, as represented at O. This wheel Z has two lifters or
latches placed in its edge, which lift up when the pins V, V, are forced into
it. After these pins V, V, have lifted the latches, the springs T, T, will
immediately recover the former position, and thereby the pins V, V, will be
locked or held fast, which will immediately set the loom in operation.
In witness whereof, I, the said Moses Poole, have hereunto set my hand
and seal, this Fifth day of June, in the year of our Lord One
thousand night hundred and thirty-eight