Improvements in Lathes for Turning Pearl Buttons and other·· similar Articles.
Year: 1890

page_text: Date of Application, 3rd Nov., 1890
Complete Specification Left, 26th June, '891-Accepted, 9th Aug.; 1891
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Lathes for Turning Pearl Buttons and other··
similar Articles.
I, Jules CléreT of Beauvais, Oise, France, Manufacturer, do hereby declare
the nature of this invention to be as follows:—
The object of my invention is to construct a lathe suitable for the manufacture
of pearl buttons, a manufacture which has hitherto presented difficulties, due chiefly
to the nature of the material. It is expensive and should therefore be treated so
as to produce as little waste as possible; it is brittle and so hard that no ordinary
cutting tool can withstand continuous work.
My improved lathe, which although specially designed for turning pearl buttons,
is also applicable to turning other like articles from pearl or other material, is
composed of two puppets mounted on the same bed; one of these puppets carries
an automatic mandrel for receiving the button blank and presenting it to the action
of an emery or other abrading wheel or grinder mounted on the second puppet and
bearing in intaglio or in relief the form to be given to the buttons. The puppet
which supports the emery wheel is fixed while the puppet which carries the mandrel
is movable. This puppet is moved by hand by means of a horizontal lever which
moves it towards and away from the wheel; or it may be worked by treadles or
otherwise. In the movement from the wheel the mandrel supported by the puppet
opens automatically as hereinafter described so as to allow the button which has
been cut to escape and a fresh button blank to be substituted; in the reverse
movement the mandrel closes upon the button blank.
The mandrel is formed of a tube carrying fixed and loose pulleys and turning in
the puppet; its front end is a sphere cut out in the form of a cone and its rear end
is closed by a screw stopper.
A. rod passes through the tube and carries the
chuck which is of conical form corresponding with the conical opening of the sphere.
It is slit in four places to give it the requisite elasticity for exerting pressure on
the button or for expanding as required. The said rod has a boss against which a
coiled spring bears, this spring being retained at its other end by the mandrel tube.
A. screw passed through the side of the tube and entering the rod draws the latter
into the rotary movement of the tube while allowing it an end wise movement by
means of a mortise or slot formed for the purpose.
The mechanism for controlling and regulating the mandrel is supported by two
brackets the first of which is fixed on the puppet and the other on the bed of the
lathe. To the upper part of the bracket on the puppet is pivoted a lever which
bears against the rod in the mandrel tube through the intermediation of a second
rod. This lever carries in the same axis as the mandrel tube a cap or head on the
end of a threaded rod which by means of a nut limits the travel of the puppet, this
nut coming against a tube or projection fixed to the bracket on the lathe bed. The
lower part of the lever comes against an adjustable screw abutment likewise fixed
to the bracket on the bed. A serrated or notched bar pivoted to the bracket on
the puppet rests upon a knife edge fixed at a suitable point of the lever so as to
establish constant rigidity between the three rods above described, that is to say the
rod in the mandrel, the rod which bears against this rod and the screw threaded
rod. When the serrated bar is not resting on the knife edge it is supported by a
roller on the bracket fixed to the bed.
The action of the lathe is as follows: The attendant puts a button blank into, the
chuck and then brings the puppet towards the emery wheel. In this movement
the lever hereinbefore described leaving the screw abutment ceases to press against
the mandrel rod through the intermediation of the second rod above mentioned; the
mandrel rod being therefore acted upon by the spring pulls the chuck which

page_text: being thus drawn into the opening of the sphere tightly closes upon the button blank.
The serrated bar having fallen upon the knife edge on the lever the movement
towards the emery wheel lasts until the nut herein before described has reached its
stop. The button having been turned the attendant moves the puppet back, the
lever comes against the screw abutment and is thereby caused to press against the
mandrel rod; the spring is thus compressed and the chuck leaves the sphere and
expands so as to allow the button to drop out.
I have hereinbefore stated that the serrated bar is intended to establish a con-
stant rigidity between the three rods. My object is this: Supposing that the
travel of the puppet is regulated to cut buttons of a given diameter, if among the
blanks there is one of a slightly larger diameter the chuck being rather less
compressed will necessarily enter a less distance into the sphere. Now if the
travel of the puppet is the same it will be seen that the chuck will either come in
contact with the emery wheel or at least approach it so nearly as to sensibly
diminish the thickness of the button. This is what I obviate by my arrangement.
The serrated bar bearing with its whole weight on the knife edge of the lever and
thus always preserving the same distance between this lever and the chuck it
follows that if the chuck enters less into the sphere the lever correspondingly
advances towards the puppet and thus the screw threaded rod moving with it,
diminishes the travel of the puppet to the same extent, seeing that it advances the
stop nut.
The same result will clearly be. produced in the reverse direction if a
button blank of a smaller diameter be placed in the chuck.
I will
The lathe above described is adapted for turning flat or round buttons.
now describe a modification for turning studs or double buttons, that is to say
articles composed of a round head, a conical shank and a bottom piece or basc.
The turning of these studs is effected in two operations. The first operation
reduces the stud except the base to the diameter of the head; the second operation
forms the shank; these two operations can be effected on the same lathe by simply
changing the emery wheel or grinder. In this modification the puppet which
carries the mandrel is the same as before, but the puppet carrying the grinder
differs; it is movable transversely and the grinder or wheel cuts with its periphery.
This puppet is worked by hand; its travel is regulated by a rod fixed to the lower
part of the other puppet and advancing with it. To the puppet which carries the
wheel a bracket is affixed on which is mounted in the line of the mandrel a guide for
regulating the length of the stud shank. The rod above described on the mandrel
puppet has a gauge bar for controlling the advance of the wheel puppet which with
this object carries a contact roller. The stud having been submitted to the first
operation is placed in the chuck; then the attendant moves forward the mandrel
puppet so that the stud head comes against the guide. He then moves forward the
wheel puppet so as to bring the wheel into work and he continues to move forward
the mandrel puppet so that the stud head may be finished. During this movement
the wheel puppet gradually recedes so as to form a conical shank, this being effected
by the pressure of the gauge bar against the roller, the gauge bar being cut
obliquely in a line parallel to the side of the stud shank.
Dated this 3rd day of November 1890.
J. C. MEWBURN,
55 & 56, Chancery Lane, London, Patent Agent.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Lathes for Turning Pearl Buttons and other
similar Articles.
I JULES CLÉRET of Beauvais, Oise, France, Manufacturer, do hereby declare
the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to
be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
The present invention has reference to the manufacture of pearl buttons; and its

page_text: object, generally stated, is to produce these articles by machinery in quantities,
uniform in size and appearance, with the least possible waste of the raw material,
at greatly reduced cost, and without the assistance of skilled workinen, it is also
applicable to the manufacture of other like articles from pearl or other material.
The present invention more particularly relates to machinery for shaping from
the blanks buttons which may be flat, convex, or partly convex on their faces, or of
other similar shapes in which pearl buttons are ordinarily found upon the market,
or which may be of mushroom form, as those sold for collar and cuff buttons.
The machine comprises two frames or carriages mounted on the same bed or
bench. One of these frames or carriages supports an emery-wheel or wheel of
other suitable abrading or grinding substance and having in intaglio or in relievo
the counterpart of the form to be given. Upon the other frame is mounted chuck
mechanism of suitable construction to grasp and hold the blank and present it to
the action of the grinding wheel. This chuck is combined with automatic devices
for opening and closing the chuck-jaws to seize or release the button and with auto-
matic regulating mechanism to limit the forward motion of the frame or carriage-
that is, its motion towards the grinding-wheel.
In the accompanying drawings, which form part of this Specification,
Figure 1 is a side elevation, partly in section, of a. machine constructed in
accordance with the invention;
Figure 2, a plan view of the same:
Figure 3, a similar view of the frame carrying the emery wheel as designed for
the manufacture of collar-buttons, and
Figure 4 is a cross section through the point of lever 1.
The arrangement shown in Figures 1 and 2 is that designed for use in making
ordinary buttons having a flat or slightly rounded surface. In this case the frame u,
which carries the grinding-wheel, is stationary. This grinding-wheel is cut upon
the face near the edge, the profile corresponding with the shape to be given to the
button. Frame or carriage is movable by means of lever d toward and away
from the wheel. In the latter movement the chuck-jaws k, which hold the button-
blank open automatically, as hereinafter described, permit the button to drop. The
jaws k are formed on the end of a rod j, which is loosely surrounded by the tube or
sleeve. The latter is journaled in bearings in the frame and carries the fast and
loose pulleys. At its forward end the tube has a spherical head /, hollowed
out in the form of a cone. At its other end it is closed by a stopper i. The outer
surface of jaws k is shaped to correspond with the bore of head, so that when the
jaws move into the head they will be compressed upon and tightly grasp any object
placed between them. A collar on rod forms a bearing surface for one end of a
coiled spring m, which bears at the other end against an annular shoulder in sleeve f
This spring tends to draw jaws k into the head h. A screw-pin n, passing through
a slot o in rod j, connects the rod and sleeve f together, so that the latter rotates
the former; but this pin does not interfere with the movement of the rod length-
wise of the sleeve.
To the rear of carriage is attached a bracket p, and behind it is another bracket
or standard 7, fixed to the work bench or table on which carriage c travels. In the
upper end of bracket is pivoted a lever, against which bears the end of a rods,
passing loosely through a sleeves, attached to bracket p and bearing at its forward
end against the rod j. To the other side of lever and in the same line with rods j
and is attached another rod, which passes freely through a sleeve v, fixed in
bracket . Rod t is screw-threaded at its end and provided with a nut u which by
contact with sleeve limits the forward movement of carriage c.
This nut u is
r
adjusted initially to arrest the carriage at the proper point determined by the
thickness of the button; but the parts have, in addition, an automatic adjustment,
as will be hereinafter explained, to compensate for any variations in the thickness
of the button-blanks.
In the lower end of bracket q is a stop-screw,r; which arrests the carriage c'at
the proper point in its reverse motion by the contact therewith of the lower end of

page_text: lever r.
This stop-screw is also adjustable. In bracket is pivoted an arm y
having on its under side an incline or cam face, which, when carriage e moves to
the right, rests upon the knife-edged projection of lever r. A small friction-
roller, carried by a rod attached to bracket q, serves to let the cam y down
gradually as the carriage moves forward, and also to raise it out of contact with
the projection when the carriage returns.
The operation is as follows: The machine being in the position shown in the
drawings, the operator with his right hand inserts a blank in the jaws and with
his left hand turns lever d in the direction to move carriage c toward the grinding
wheel.
As lever moves away from stop, its pressure against rods is relieved
and spring m expands, drawing the jaws into head, by which the jaws are com-
pressed firmly upon the blank. Camy comes down upon the knife-edge, and the
motion of the carriage is finally arrested by the contact of nut against sleever.
Thus the amount of material removed by the grinding-wheel, and consequently the
thickness of the button, is determined and is uniform in each case. When the
button is finished, the operator reverses the lever d, moving the carriage back until
lever strikes the end of stop a, forces rods s and forward against the pressure of
spring m, and pushes jaws farther out of head h. The jaws then relax by
their own elasticity, and the finished button drops from them.
r
If in the mass of blanks there should be one of somewhat larger diameter than
the others, it is evident that the jaws & would enter a less distance into head h, and
consequently the carriage would have to travel a shorter distance before bringing
the button into contact with the wheel ; but from the fact that jaws k protrude
from head a greater distance than usual the nut u will be by so much nearer to
the sleeve v, and therefore the motion of the carriage will be arrested at the proper
point, provided lever is maintained in contact with rod s. To maintain this
contact is the function of the cam, for when the latter rests with all its weight on
the knife-edge of the lever it maintains constant the distance between this
lever and the jaws k. In this way the arrangement described provides auto-
matically the necessary compensation for variations in the size of the button-
blanks.
The apparatus as shown in Figure 3, is designed to turn articles of the shape of
collar-buttons. The work on these buttons is performed in two operations. The
first is to reduce the blank, with the exception of the base or disc at the bottom, to
the diameter of the head. The second is to make the shank. Both operations are
performed on the same machine by simply changing the grinding-wheel. In this
apparatus the carriage c (a part of which is shown) and the parts connected with it
are the same as in the other figures. The frame a', corresponding to the frame a
of Figure 1, instead of being stationary, is mounted upon a sliding support A,
movable transversely on the bed or bench C by means of a lever 1. Carriage c is
provided with a long bar 2, carrying a guide 5, whose function will presently be
explained. This guide limits the transverse motion of the slide A and frame a¹ by
contact of the roller 6 against the guide. Frame a has an arm 3, which carries
adjustably a stop 4, which is in the path of the chuck-jaws of the carriage c.
This stop is used to determine the limit of the forward motion of the button-
carrying chuck. The roller 6 is carried on the end of a slotted bar 8, held
adjustably in place by the screws 9, 10. The operating-lever 1 is fulcrumed at 11,
the fulcrum-pin passing through a slot 12 in slide A and fixed in the stationary
bed C beneath. Said lever is provided with an arm 7, which is slotted longitudinally,
and in the slot is a pin 13, attached to the slide A. When lever 1 is turned on its
centre, the slide A and all parts carried thereby will be moved back or forth trans-
versely to the axis of chuck-jaws k. Of course any other convenient means for
moving the slide A may be adopted instead of those described.
The operation is as follows, the parts being in the position shown,-that is to
say, slide A and frame a¹ at the extreme position away from the button-carrying
chuck, and carriage c at its extreme position to the left or away from grinding-
wheel For the first operation a wheel is used having on its periphery the

page_text: counter part of the form to be given to the button blank, so as to simply reduce.
the shank for its full length to the diameter of the head. The first step is to move
up carriage c until the end of the blank touches stop 4, which has been properly
set. Head and jaws & are indicated in this position in dotted lines. This motion
brings the incline 15 of guide 5 opposite roller 6. The next step is to swing lever 1
to the left, advancing slide A, frame a', and the grinding-wheel. In this motion
the stop 4 passes away from in front of the button-blank, and the edge of the
grinding-wheel comes in contact with the side of the revolving blank cutting it
away until sufficiently reduced, the cutting being stopped when roller 6 strikes
guide 5. Slide A is then moved back for the next operation, the position of
carriage e not being disturbed. The grinding wheel is removed and replaced by one
such as for cutting down the shank to a conical form. Slide A is again brought
forward, the edge of wheel cutting into the biank the proper depth to form the
head, this depth being determined by the striking of roller 6 against the guide 5.
The roller strikes the incline 15 of said guide, which was brought opposite to it by
the motion of the carriage c to the right. The operator now continues to move
carriage c still farther to the right, so that the edge of wheel cuts from the head
toward the base of the shank; but in this motion the incline 15 pushes back
frame a', so that a conical shank is formed, the angle of the side of the shank being
determined by the angle of inclination of the inclined edge 15, as will be readily
understood.
It is obvious that modifications may be made in the details of construction and in
the means for moving the carriages without departing from the principles of the
invention.
I have described the two operations being performed on the same machine. In
practice, however, it is not usual to change the grinding-wheels, but is more con-
venient to use one machine for the operation of turning down the blanks to the
diameter of the head and then to pass these blanks to another operator, who, with
a similar machine, gives the button its final shape, as above described. In the first
operation the inclined guide is not used.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is
1. In a machine for making pearl buttons and analogous articles, the combination,
with the grinding wheel, of the carriage movable toward and away from said wheel,
the rotatory sleeve supported in bearings of said carriage, the rod passing through
said sleeve and having chuck-jaws projecting from the head thereof, a spring
tending to press said jaws into the head, so as to close the same, a stop for limiting
the forward motion of the carriage, mechanism, such as specified, between said
stop and the rod carrying said jaws, and means, as indicated, for releasing the jaws
upon the return movement of the carriage, substantially as described.
2. The combination of the movable carriage, the chuck-jaws carried by a rotatable
support thereon and movable longitudinally, a stop for arresting said carriage in its
forward motion, and connections, as described, between the said stop and the jaws
for maintaining constant the distance between them, substantially as described.
3. The combination of the movable carriage, the sleeve rotating in bearings
thereof, the rod movable longitudinally in said sleeve and carrying elastic chuck-
jaws, the spring for moving said rod in the direction to close said jaws, the lever
pivoted to said carriage and connected with a stop which arrests the forward motion
of the carriage, and a second stop for arresting the return thereof by contact with
said lever, the latter being adapted to move the chuck in opposition to its spring
when actuated by the last-named stop, substantially as described.
4. The combination of the carriage, the chuck rod and its supporting sleeve, the
stop for arresting the forward motion of said carriage, the lever serving as a con-
nection between the stop and chuck-rod, a cam for pressing the lever toward the

page_text: chuck-rod, so as to maintain their relative positions, and means, as indicated, for
throwing said cam into and out of action, substantially as described.
5. The combination, with a grinding-wheel, of a carriage movable toward and
away from the same, a button-holding chuck having elastic jaws projecting from
the head of a sleeve, a spring for drawing the jaws into the sleeve and so com-
pressing them upon the blank, and a stop for forcing the jaws out of the sleeve
when the carriage returns, so that the button is released automatically, substantially
as described.
6. The combination, with the carriage supporting the chuck and with means, as
indicated, for advancing said carriage and for opening and closing the chuck-jaws,
of a second carriage supporting the grinding wheel and movable transversely with
respect to the axis of the chuck, substantially as described.
7. The combination of the carriage supporting the chuck and movable in the
direction of the axis of the chuck-spindle, the carriage supporting the grinding-
wheel and movable transversely to the former, so as to act with its edge against
the side of the button-blank and an inclined guide carried by the first named
carriage for pushing back the second carriage as the base of the blank approaches
the cutting edge, substantially as described.
Dated this 26th day of June 1891.
J. C. MEWBURN,
55 & 56, Chancery Lane, London, Patent Agent.