CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE, STAMPING, AND TREATMENT GENERALLY OF WOVEN FABRICS OF ALL KINDS
Year: 1848

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, MEYER
JACOBS, of Spitalfiels, in the County of Middlesex, Gentleman, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Royal Letters Patent under the Great Seal of the United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland, bearing date at Westminster, the Second day of November,
in the thirteenth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors,
give and grant unto me, the said Meyer Jacobs, my exors, admors, and assigns,
Her especial licence, full power, sole privilege and authority, that I, the said
Meyer Jacobs, my exors, admors, or assigns, or such others as I, the said
Meyer Jacobs, my exors, adiñors, or assigns, should at any time agree with,
and no others, from time to time and at all times during the term of years
therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend,
within England, Wales, and the Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, in the Islands
of Guernsey, Jersey, Alderney, Sark, and Man, and in all her said Majesty's
Colonies and Plantations abroad, my Invention of "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN
THE MANUFACTURE, STAMPING, AND TREATMENT GENERALLY OF WOVEN FABRICS OF
ALL KINDS;" in which said Letters Patent is contained a proviso, that I, the
said Meyer Jacobs, shall cause a particular description of my said Invention,
and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be enrolled in Her
said Majesty's High Court of Chancery within six calendar months next
and immediately after the date in said in part recited Letters Patent, as
in and by the same, reference being had thereto, will more fully and at large
appear.

page_text: the said
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso,
Meyer Jacobs, do hereby declare the nature of my said Invention to be the
same as described and represented in and by the following statement, that is
to say:-
My Invention for certain improvements in the manufacture, stamping, and
treatment generally of woven fabrics of all kinds, consists in producing on
either or both sides or faces thereof certain raised designs, having the appear-
ance of velvet, lace, and other costly manufacture; and I would first premise
that none of the machinery I employ is of a novel character, or applicable to
my improvements only, but is of the ordinary description, and will be perfectly
understood by workmen employed in the printing trade from my description;
and that Drawings illustrative of such machinery would be more likely to
embarrass the workman than serve to illustrate the process of printing or
stamping, which form the subject of the present Specification. The materials
I use are as follows: but it is necessary to observe that the mordant used to
combine with coloring particles in the pores of textile filaments may be
obtained from Paris, from all color manufacturers, and the precise ingredients
of which it is composed are unknown to me. I give the relative proportions
of the composition used for the aforesaid purpose of printing or stamping
raised figures or designs as nearly as possible, it being certain that such pro-
portions vary, in some instances, according to the quality or texture of the
fabric to be operated upon.
Firstly, in stamping or printing or treating muslin, I take of the mordant
herein-before referred to ten pounds, of the turpentine denominated Searney's
patent sweet turpentine one pound, boiled linseed oil two pounds, oil of cloves
four ounces, the dryers commonly called patent dryers, one pound, and suf-
cient color to obtain the shade required. No certain direction can be given
as to the proportion of color used in the composition, as the quantity will
vary according to the shade desired to be obtained, and the texture of the
fabric in which the composition is to be used; and must therefore be left to
the discretion of the workman, whose practice will soon enable him to judge
the quantity required with precision.
Secondly, to treat the trellis-like fabric usually denominated net or Italian
net, and make it appear from the raising of the designs like lace, either of point
or other, I use a composition, composed as that herein-before described for the
purpose of treating muslin; and taking the same quantities, 1 omit the boiled
linseed oil, and in lieu thereof introduce the same quantity, namely, two pounds
of white varnish, into the mixture. I need hardly observe that the ingredients

page_text: forming the foregoing compositions must be stirred up in the vessel in which
they are mixed, so that they may be thoroughly amalgamated.
Thirdly, for the treatment of woollen fabrics I use the composition already
herein-before described, and taking the same quantities, I omit therefrom the
boiled linseed oil and white varnish, and in lieu thereof add spirit of sal am-
moniac, varying in quantity according to the texture or substance of the woollen
fabric to be operated upon; but this also must in a great measure be varied
the discretion and practice of the operator, as no certain proportion can be
given; but as a guide, eight ounces will be found sufficient, where the fabric
is light in texture or substance.
I now proceed to describe the manner or mode in which I use the com-
positions herein-before described for the purposes of stamping and treating
generally woven fabrics; and to commence with muslin, on both sides of
which and exactly opposite I raise a design, or figure or figures, by the
following process:-I use a box or trough, partly filled with water, and of
sufficient capacity to receive the block on which the design intended to be
stamped or printed in the muslin is carved or cut on the water floats or board
of nearly the same size as the interior of the box, but not quite touching it at
its ends and sides. This board is covered with leather or cloth, having some
elastic stuffing underneath, so as to render it similar to a printer's pad, and
when so arranged it may be rightly termed a pad. I lay on to this pad with
a brush some of the composition firstly described, and then lightly dab or
strike the face of the block on which the design is cut on to the pad,
which, being lightly and evenly pressed upwards against the said face
by the elasticity of the water under the pad, leaves the desired quantity
of the composition on the design. I now prepare a common printing table,
covered with blankets or cloths in the usual manner, but having spread
over all a grey cotton cloth of the width required; and as I usually stamp
or print four yards of fabric at one operation, that quantity of the grey
cloth is placed ready to receive the muslin, and must be retired and
renewed by a fresh surface thereof at the printing of every succeeding
four yards of muslin which is placed thereon; the block having now the
design or figure duly moistened with the solution or composition, is pressed
upon the muslin, leaving the impression thereon, and this is repeated till
the quantity to be stamped has received the impression; I have ready a drum
or case, this drum or case measures about four yards long by two yards wide,
near the centre of which is strained a cloth on which I place the article termed
flock or floss, of the quality and color desired, strewing it thereon till there is

page_text: about one inch in depth of the flock or floss on the cloth. The muslin having
been stamped or printed, and while the composition is moist, is introduced into
the drum or case, and the bottom of the cloth sustaining the flock or floss is
beaten with sticks, causing the flock to rise, fly about, and settle on and adhere
to all that portion of the fabric moistened with the solution or composition
described; the fabric is then withdrawn. When the whole of the piece has been
so treated, the piece is turned, and in the same manner beaten as before, and
then hung up to dry, the extraneous particles brushed off, and the raised design
or figure will be found perfect on both sides, and the fabric in its improved state
ready for use for dresses, or all the purposes to which ornamental muslins are
applicable. I treat the fabric called net, or similar fabrics, where I desire to
produce raised surfaces or patterns thereon, to make it resemble in its appear-
ance lace, whether of the description called point lace or that which is termed
Brussels, or any other description or denomination of lace, in the same manner
as I have herein-before described in reference to the treatment of muslin, using
white woollen flock or floss to produce the white raised surfaces or designs;
woollen fabrics require a somewhat different composition, which is composed
as follows: Of the mordant already described ten pounds, Searney's sweet
terpentine one pound, oil of cloves four ounces, patent dryers one pound,
color in sufficient quantity to produce the shade required; to these ingredients,
when well mixed together, I add spirit of sal ammoniac, varying in quantity,
according to the substance or thickness of the fabric to be operated upon; no
certain direction can here be given, as practice alone will enable the operator
to apportion the proper quantity; but as a guide, I direct that for a woollen
fabric of light texture or substance, eight ounces of the spirit of sal ammoniac
be added to the ingredients just mentioned. To produce upon either or both
sides of these woollen fabrics raised designs or surfaces, bearing the appearance
of the velvet denominated Utrecht velvet, I employ the same process as
herein-before written in describing the treatment of muslin. To produce a
fabric having the appearance (when perfected by my improved process, of
velvet, but which I denominate Utrecht cloth, I use the mixture or com-
position firstly described in reference to the treatment of muslin or other light
woven fabrics, but I now take a piece of cotton or woollen, or any other
woven fabric, and rub or coat- one side thereof with said composition, adding
thereto a solution of india-rubber, brushing the same lightly and evenly over
the fabric, so as to completely cover the surface with a thin coating thereof.
I then pass the prepared fabric into the drum or case, and finish by the
process herein-before firstly described. If I require the velvet appearance on

page_text: both sides of the fabric, I repeat, the foregoing process on the other or still
plain side or surface of the fabric, passing it afterwards into the drum and
finishing as before stated.
Having now described the nature of my improvements in the manufacture,
stamping, and treatment. generally of woven fabrics of all kinds, and in what
manner the same is to be performed and carried into practical effect; I wish it
to be distinctly understood, that I do not claim the exclusive use of any of
materials, ingredients, tables, blocks, tubs, drums, cases, or other substances,
matters, or things above mentioned or herein-before referred to, but only in so
far as the same when combined and treated in the mode and manner herein-
before described for the purposes of my said Invention; which I hereby
declare to consist of, and I claim as of my Invention of "Certain Improve-.
ments in the Manufacture, Stamping, and Treatment generally of Woven
Fabrics of all Kinds,"-
Firstly, the composition, mixture, or combination of materials herein-before
described for the coating or moistening the figures or designs cut or carved in
the blocks used for printing or stamping the said figures or designs upon the
muslin or other light woven fabrics.
Secondly, the composition, mixture, or combination of materials herein-
before described for the treatment, printing, or stamping the trellis-like
fabrics usually denominated lace.
Thirdly, the composition, mixture, or combination of materials for the treat-
ment of woven fabrics of wool or other similar material.
Fourthly, the composition, mixture, or combination of materials herein-
before described for manufacturing the fabric I denominate Utrecht cloth.
Fifthly, the several processes by which, in conjunction with the composition,
mixture, or combination of materials, together with flock or floss, raised
surfaces or designs are produced on woven fabrics, on both sides thereof,
during one operation, as herein-before described and demonstrated as regards
muslin and other woven fabrics, also the process by which the material I
denominate Utrecht cloth is produced. And such my Invention or improve-
ments being, to the best of my knowledge and belief, entirely new and never
before used for the purposes herein-before mentioned and described within that
part of Her Majesty's United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland called
England, Her said Majesty's Dominions of Wales, the Town of Berwick-upon-
Tweed, and in the Islands of Guernsey, Jersey, Alderney, Sark, and Man,
also in all Her said Majesty's Colonies and Plantations abroad, I do hereby
declare this to be my Specification of the same, and that I do verily believe

page_text: this. my said Specification doth comply in all respects with. the proviso in
the said herein-before in. part recited Letters Patent contained; wherefore I
hereby claim to maintain exclusive right to my said Invention.
erheid Ma Tasche bere hereunto cat thoir
Enrolled the Second day of May, in the year of our Lord One thousand
eight hundred and forty-nine.