IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES
Year: 1862

page_text: PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by Jean Frédéric Journaux Leblond
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
12th August 1862.
I, JEAN FRÉDÉRIC JOURNAUX LEBLOND, of Paris, France, Machino Maker,
do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
SEWING MACHINES," to be as follows:-
The object of these improvements is to allow of sewing by means of the
same machine, 1stly, the shuttle or lock stitch; 2ly, the chain stitch with one
thread; 3ly, the same stitch with two threads.
For forming the shuttle stitch the apparatus is provided with the ordinary
vertical needle fixed in a needle carrier moving with a reciprocating vertical
motion in proper slides by means of an excentricum and pulley, both mounted
on the same arbor. Underneath this vertical needle the shuttle moves with a
horizontal reciprocating motion in the inside of the table by the effect of a
jointed lever connected to the already mentioned arbor. The shuttle stitch is
obtained by the combined motions of the needle and of the shuttle thread,
and the cloth is moved forward by the cloth carrier in a manner similar to
that of other shuttle sewing machines.
For producing the single thread chain stitch it suffices to substitute instead
of the shuttle a small bent hook of the form shown in perspective view in
the annexed Drawing, and to be fixed by a set screw, which hook receives a
horizontal to-and-fro motion for the effect that the vertical needle having

page_text: carried its thread through the fabric to be sewn; the bent part of this hook
introduces itself between the fabric and the thread of the vertical needle
during the time this latter performis its rising motion, thereby forming the
loop which the hook then leaves, the fabric being at the same time carried
forward to the required distance, thus allowing the vertical needle in its next
downward stroke to carry the thread through the loop just obtained and in
combination with the hook from the next loop.
For producing the chain stitch with two threads a thread is introduced in
the holes and in the slit or groove with which the above-mentioned hook is
provided, in the manner as shown in red ink in the annexed Drawing. In this
arrangement, each of the two threads forms a loop, the loop of the hook
thread being inserted in that of the needle thread, thereby giving rise to a
double-threaded chain stitch. From what has been explained it will be
understood that the machine allows by simply removing a few accessory
parts, or substituting others instead of them, to work either with the shuttle
stitch, the single or the double threaded chain stitch. Motion is given to
the apparatus in the usual manner.
My improved sewing machine for sewing hosiery fabrics I provide with the
ordinary vertical needle and a revolving disc in which the pin points are inserted
for the edges of the fabric to be attached to, whilst the hook for forming the
loop is jointed underneath the fabric and the vertical needle, leaving the
required open space when this needle is descending, and form a mantua-
maker's or a whipped hew. The disc vertical needle and hook receive the
required motion from the main arbor by suitable connecting parts.