Improvements in and relating to Circular Knitting Machines, and to New or Improved Articles of Hosiery therein Produced.
Year: 1892

page_text: Date of Application, 6th Dec., 1892
Complete Specification Left, 6th Oct., 1893-Accepted, 6th Jan., 1894
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in and relating to Circular Knitting Machines, and to
New or Improved Articles of Hosiery therein Produced.
I, GEORGE FREDERICK STURGESS of 37 Park Road North Evington
Leicester in the County of Leicester Hosiers Engineer, do hereby declare the
nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention refers to circular reversible or non-reversible knitting machines in
which the formation of knitted loops are accomplished by a longitudinal movement
of the needles sliding or oscillating independently in their grooves, and to the
manufacture of fancy or ornamental articles of hosiery therein produced. And
the object of such invention is to increase the capabilities of and to obtain a greater
variety of fabrics from such knitting machines and to produce ribbed and plain
hosiery of the well known seamless type, having fancy or piled raised ornamental
patterns in part or parts thereof such patterns are either in the form of raised
tucked or mis-stitch loops, as seen in fancy knitted gloves; or in the form of
coloured checks, tartans, plaids, diagonal, regular or irregular stripes or shapes in
two or more colours, or to produce in plain hosiery, of the seamless type part or
parts of the fabric formed by tucking or accumulating loops, such as "Saxon" or
Royal rib" loops. It consists of the following mechanical improvements and
combinations in producing my new articles of manufacture. First a "designer" is
employed for shifting the needles from one track or position to another and thereby
predetermine when a needle shall or shall not take the knitting thread and make
mis-stitch or accumulated loops or shall knit a loop, or not knit a loop at every
course and make tucked, mis-stitch or fancy fabrics having ornamental stitches
raised on the surface of the fabric, or coloured, checked, or other like pattern
fabrics, also to make the heels and toes automatically. Also by intermittently
suspending certain rib-needles and throwing the rib loops on the back of the fabric
to change from one pattern of rib to another. Also to fashion the fabric by putting
Whether the
the said loops on the back instead of the body of the fabric at will.
said needle bed be in the form of a dial, cone, cylinder or other well known circular
shape, I employ secured to said needle bed a toothed disc having radial slots cut in
its upper or lower surface these slots are at equidistant intervals to correspond with
the guage of the machine. There being as mauy teeth as slots, when the machine,
is rotated the said disc revolves upon its own axis, and always presents a slot in a
direct line with a needle. Into these slots I put sliding or fulcrumed needle
shifters, or controllers consisting of conveniently shaped pieces of steel, wires, or
blades, which are actuated by a cam or cams in a cam plate fixed to the axis of the
said disc.
These needle controllers engage with the needles or their jacks and shift
them either into action, or out of action, with the knitting cams, as required by
designer
the particular style or construction of machine to which the ",
affixed.
"
19
It can be applied to the well known swing jack or to the other well known
methods or means of giving movement to the knitting needles. I make the disc of
any size and cut any number of slots and teeth therein, and arrange the needle
shifters in the slots according to the particular fabric or design to be made.
In any case the disc though being cut the saine guage as the needle bed
must be differential so as to effect the required changes at every course of
knitting.
For instance assuming the number of needles in the bed to be 60 or six divisions

page_text: of 10, the disc may have 70 teeth and tricks or 7 divisions of 10, thus having one
more division than the needle divisions, when in rotating the machine the "designer"
will change its position in relation to the needles to the extent of one division
at every revolution, and assuming number one' division of the "designer" to
start at number one division of needles it would require seven revolutions of the
machine to put the "designer" completely through its changes, when number
one division of the "designer" would again come to number one division of the
needles.
"
Number one division of the needles would be actuated at the first round
by the said number one division of the "designer," at the second round by
No. 2 division, at the third round by No. 3, at the fourth by No. 4, at the fifth
by No. 5, at the sixth by No. 6, and at the seventh round by No. 7 division,
when the pattern would be completed on No. 1 division of the needles,
when the "designer" would proceed to repeat the changes in the next successive
rounds. The pattern on the other five divisions of the needles being in progress
in the same manner. The design is determined by the way in which the shifters
are arranged in each division of the "designer," assuming the "designer" to be
full of needle shifters, or controllers ordinary fabric would be knitted, to make a
half diamond pattern intersected with a vertical stripe I arrange the "designer
in the following manner, take out the centre two needle shifters in number one
division which would make the vertical apex of the half diamond, the centre four
of number two division which would make the second expansion of the half
diamond, and the centre six of number three division which would make the third
expansion, the centre eight of the fourth division which would make the fourth
expansion, and the whole ten of number five division which would make the
full expanse of the half diamond, and the two centre needle shifters of the sixth
and seventh divisions which would represent the vertical stripe, seperating the
finish of one half diamond from the commencement or apex of the next half
diamond in the same section of the fabric. The said pattern of each division of
fabric being one or more courses below the pattern of the neighbouring division
on one side, and one or more courses above the pattern of the neighbouring division
on the other side.
A smaller half diamond may be made within the larger one by bringing certain
of the withdrawn needle shifters in action. The said pattern in the fabric being a
coloured pattern or a pile pattern of raised surface loops, as hereinafter described.
The complete dimensions of the pattern being larger or smaller according to the
number of needles in each division, or the number of divisions more in the designer
than the needle divisions in the machine, by having one slot and tooth more or less
only in the "designer" than there are needles in the needle bed and arranging
the needle shifters one in action, and one out of action alternately round the
circle, the result would be what is well known as "Royal rib" fabric, which can
be made either in plain looped only, or in plain and ribbed looped fabric. By
having two slots and teeth more or less only in the "designer" than there are
needles in the needle bed and arranging the needle shifters, two in action, and
two out of action alternately round the circle, the fabric produced would be what
is well known as "Saxon rib" fabric, both in plain or ribbed fabric.
Any number of my "designers" may be applied to one machine, and they may
be used for the purpose of giving the clearing movement to the needle, or the
drawing movement to the needle as the case may require.
A further developement of the said "designer" by which means I am enabled
to make very large patterns in or on the fabric, and obtain a greater variety of
changes in the "designer" and consequently more intricate patterns, to increase
greatly the capabilities of circular knitting machines, also to obtain greater lengths
of fabric between one change, and another succeeding change, such as is required
in the making of
66
a one and one " ribbed top and changing to a "three and one
or other pattern of ribbed leg, and then changing to make the heel of any well
known pattern, then changing to the foot with the instep ribbed and the waist
"

page_text: plain. Then changing for the toe, which is made in any well-known manner
All of which it will be seen require a considerable amount of knitting to take
place between one change and another. In this case the "designer" has the same
number of slots and shifters as there are needles in the needle bed with which it
is engaged. Or it may be half the said proportions.
The shifters when fulcrumed are actuated by the cams which are situated near
the centre of the disc or "designer," the swinging movement for shifting the
needles being imparted to the shifters or controllers by the cam on the inner side
of their axis, the return or counter movement being imparted by a cam which is
fixed on the outer side of their axis. Or by a spring attached to, or formed on
each shifter independently, or by a rubber or steel flexible pad situated on the
underneath side of the inner end of the shifters or controllers, the latter form
being most preferable I refer more particularly to it hereafter.
In place of the cam that imparts the swinging movement in the former method
I employ a circular presser wheel, which determines which shifter or controller
shall engage or shall not engage with the needles, this presser is made to gear
with the inner end of the shifters, upon its periphery are saw gates, and corre-
sponding notches. When a saw gate comes in a line with a needle shifter as it rotates
on its own axis, the said needle shifter remains inactive, when a notch comes over a
needle shifter it is actuated. By the particular arrangement of these notches and
saw gates the pattern resolves itself into any shape required, the said presser wheel
is differential in its relation to the disc and consequently in this instance takes up
the function of " 'designer."
"
The presser wheel is made of any dimensions to suit the particular pattern of
fabric or article in process of manufacture, and any number of rounds or courses
may be knitted while the presser wheel is passing completely through its changes;
for instance if a "one and one top of 50 courses, a "three and one" leg narrowed
down to plain or other pattern of rib than "three and one" at the calf (of
150 courses) and heel of 20 courses, a foot with ribbed instep and plain waist of
60 courses, a toe of 20 courses or thereabouts may be knitted while the said presser
wheel is completing one series of changes only, when it proceeds to repeat.
The presser wheel acting on the shifters near the centre of the disc is pro-
portionately small in relation to the size of the needle bed upon which the "designer"
is acting. It will therefore be seen that the "designer" can be applied to effect a
great many of the changes that take place in the formation of articles of hosiery of the
nature indicated and its method of application and shape can be readily modified to
conform to the requirements of any kind or size of needle bed as now obtained in
the various types of and systems of knitting machines. A circular brush is
attached to the "designer" to keep the needle latches from closing.
To add extra coloured threads for making checks, tartans, plaids and the like
patterns on a one feeder machine I employ auxiliary thread holes in the guide and
diagonally split the stitch cam up into sections thereby making two or more
drawing inclines to the said stitch cam, the clearing cam in this instance remains
in action, say a "red" thread may be drawn by the changing series of needles that
are not actuated upon by the "designer," these needles take the "normal" line of
travel in drawing their loops, and a "white" thread may be drawn by the changing
series of needles actuated to the "half way" stage by the "short throw" series of
the needle controllers, this series of needles take the "middle" line of travel in
drawing their loops, and a "blue" thread may be drawn by the changing series of
needles actuated to the "highest" or upper stage by the "full throw" series of
needle controllers, this series take the third or upper line of travel in drawing their
loops.
"
The hooks of that series of needles taking a "normal line of travel miss the
"white" and "blue" threads.
The hooks of the series of needles taking the "half way" line of travel miss the
blue thread, their latches being above or beyond the "red" thread, this thread is
also missed, the latches of those needles which take the upper stage of travel, are

page_text: above or beyond and consequently miss the "red" and "white" thread producing
the pattern in solid colours; or the needles of one set or more sets of needles may
take two of the threads, thereby producing patterns in which certain loops have
two colours blended. In a "two or more feeder machine a different colour is
used to each feeder whereby horizontal stripes are made as usual.
ני
For deviating the said stripes into the form of patterns the usual clearing cam is
taken out of action and the "designer" brought into requisition in its place, and
certain series of needles are consequently made to miss the thread and not form
loops at any feeder, for instance where a "controller" engages with a needle, that
needle will clear its old loop and form a new one, where the needle controllers are
withdrawn, or rendered inactive by the presser wheel the corresponding needles
will not knit, and so on all round the circle. This may be repeated at each feeder,
and the needles missing one colour of thread are made to take up another coloured
thread of one of the other feeders. The missed threads being thrown on the back
of the fabric in the form of what is technically known as "overshot work.
That is work in which one thread passes transversely over the back of the
stitches of another thread but the needles which do not knit any particular thread
may take the said thread in their hooks, and throw it off again, on to the back of
the fabric, such an accumulation of non-knitted loops on the back of the fabric
pushes the corresponding surface loop forward and makes a fabric having raised
stitches, technically known as "tucked loops" so well known in fancy knitted
gloves. These raised loops may be made to conform to any pattern such as a
"diamond," or square, and be made in one or various colours. The pattern
thereof being determined by the "designer" in the manner before described.
To prevent the loose thread of a suspended yard supply from becoming entangled
with the knitting threads I cut a slit in the nose, of the bobbin, or other convenient
part thereof wherein the thread is secure.
To assist or dispense with dial posts in such machines I attach or form projections
or nibs upon the periphery of the ribbing dial, standing above the level of its upper
surface, and extending beyond the inside circle of the cylinder needles, these nibs
impinge on the side of the cylinder needles and prevent the dial rotating with the
moving parts of the machine.
When necessary to convert a "two feeder" machine into a 66 one feeder" machine
for forming the heel and toe of a stocking as set forth in my prior Patent No. 13706
of 1890, I make the extra thread guide, or thread guides detachable in order to
effect this they are mounted on a strip or annular section of metal the said strip is
pivoted to the lug of the ordinary yarn guide, when by drawing them backward
they are held by springs away from the needles and do not impede the manipulation
of needles, when this operation is performed by hand. To facilitate my invention
I also make the ordinary clearing cams adjustable to three positions by the aid of a
vertical or horizontal sliding piece in connection therewith, when the sliding piece
is at its lowest point, the clearing cam is entirely out of action consequently those
series of needles not actuated by the "designer" miss the thread, when the sliding
piece is adjusted to its second position the clearing cam imparts a short movement
to the needles; and such needles accumulate a loop, when the sliding piece is in the
higher position the clearing cam is fulfilling its ordinary office, and ordinary
knitting is proceeded with. To produce ordinary plain looped knitting on the
waist of the foot while making a fancy pattern of instep I cause the clearing cam
to be brought into full action every time it passes across the half circle in each
course of knitting, automatically by the said sliding piece.
66
"
By a modification of the "designer" herein before mentioned I can employ it as
a loop or fabric depresser, the teeth and tricks in the disc corresponding with the
guage of the needle bed, and in place of the needle shifters as aforesaid I put wires
or blade sinkers which press the loops as they are drawn over the tricks of the
needle bed, and over the hooks thereof. The said loops are thereby secured and
the fabric is pressed downward without employing weights for the purpose.
I will now proceed to describe my new articles of machine made hosiery as made

page_text: by the contrivances herein before mentioned they consist of what is known as
"seamless hose "baving a top of any pattern of rib, a leg of any other pattern of
rib, or plain, the ankle fashioned or not fashioned in any ordinary manner, a
sectionally knitted heel of the usual kind, a circularly knitted foot and toe of the
usually knitted character with or without a sectionally spliced ankle and waist.
The said articles have a leg, or leg and foot or instep made in coloured patterns
such as plaids, tartans, or diagonal regular, or irregular stripes or shapes in the
manner described or in raised or flush loops formed in any of the above patterns.
The process of making is as follows. For example if I desire to produce a man's
hose, the top of which is "two and two rib, the leg of say "six and two " or
"five and two" ribbed fabric, the "designer" being requisitioned to provide the
raised loops or coloured patterns which patterns are made and forined in the
manner set forth, and having arrived at the calf, the ankle is fashioned in
any well
known manner, still providing the pattern of such raised loops or colors. The heel
is sectionally knitted in the following manner. The outermost needle of the half
circle is suspended at every reciprocation of the thread across the needles until the
apex of the heel is reached, when at every reciprocation of the thread across the
needles, the innermost of the suspended needles is re-installed until the said half
section of needles is reached when circular knitting is then again proceeded with
on the whole of the circle of needles. The pattern being made either only in the
instep, or all round the foot until the commencement of the toe is reached which is
sectionally made in the same manner as the heel, or other well known manner such
combination of parts have not hitherto been made.
Also an improved hose of the well known machine made seamless type having
parts thereof, such as the leg and foot, made up of that kind of pattern fabric
known as "Royal" or "Saxon" rib-that is a plain fabric of one set of loops
having broad sinker wales between adjacent needles formed of crossed threads
which give the appearance of a ribbed looped fabric. Or made of a ribbed fabric
of two sets of loops having the said broad sinker wales in addition to the ribbed
loops which make the said ribbed loops more apparent and of a more full and
flexible nature, such sinker wales or imitation rib lines are arrived at on the plain
needles by alternately tucking or accumulating a loop or loops on neighbouring
needles in the manner before described.
The process is as follows for example, in making an imitation ribbed half hose in
plain fabric I bring the "designer," arranged with one shifter in and one out
alternately, into action, making a few inches of "Royal rib" to represent the top,
I next use the "designer" with "two in," and "two out" alternately and make the
leg and foot of "Saxon" rib fabric.
The sectionally knitted heel and toe having been made in the ordinary manner
the article is finished.
Dated this 3rd day of December 1892
W. B. MAXFIELD,
Applicant's Agent.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
5 Improvements in and relating to Circular Knitting Machines, and to
New or Improved Articles of Hosiery therein Produced.
I, GEORGE FREDERICK STURGESS of No. 37 Park Road North Evington
Leicester in the County of Leceister Hosiers Engineer do hereby declare the
nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This invention refers to reversible or non-reversible kuitting machines in which
the formation of knitted loops is accomplished by a longitudinal movement of the
needles sliding or oscillating independently in their grooves, and to the manufacture

page_text: of fancy or ornamental articles of hosiery therein produced. And the object of such
invention is to increase the capabilities of and to obtain a greater variety of fabrics
from such knitting machines and to produce ribbed and plain hosiery of the well
known seamless type, having fancy or piled raised ornamental patterns in part or
parts thereof, such patterns are either in the form of raised, tucked or mis-stitch
loops, as seen in fancy knitted gloves; or in the form of lace, coloured checks,
tartans, plaids, diagonal, regular or irregular stripes or shades in two or more
colours, or to produce in plain hosiery of the seamless type part or parts of the
fabric formed by mis-stitching tucking or accumulating loops such as normal or
"Royal rib" in the body or the back of the fabric or any combination or style of
such tucked seamless fabrics.
"
This invention does not refer or apply to those circular machines in which the
formation of loops is accomplished by an end wise movement of the loops on the
stems of a series of fixed bearded needles as common in loop wheel machines,
whether radial or otherwise.
That my invention may be well understood I have annexed drawings hereunto in
which:
or
Figure 1, Sheet 1 is an elevation of one form of the revolving "designer"
Jacquard attachment as applied to the sliding needles of a circular or flat bed
machine and secured in front of the needles so that the pickers can operate upon
the needles as hereinafter described.
Figures 1 and 1B are details of the same.
Figure 2 is another form of the "designer" attachment applied to a needle
cylinder B of a circular knitting machine, the said "designer" encircling the
cylinder.
Figure 2 is an upper face view of the disc Ca of the "designer."
Figure 3, the upper portion or cap e¹ of the "designer."
Figure 4 another view of the cap el with the cams E attached, and Figure 5, an
under view of the same.
Figures 6 to 12 inclusive show various needles, fabric depressors, sinkers and
pickers, combination fulcrummed needle and jack, all hereinafter referred to.
Figure 13 Sheet 2 shows my improved ornamental stocking, and Figure 13ª a
diagram of a half diamond pattern hereinafter described.
"
Figure 14, one form of the "designer of the compound type applied to a
circular reversible knitting machine, the pickers' operating upon the feet of the
needles.
Figure 15 is a view of my improved stocking I, representing other such articles.
Figure 16 Sheet 1, shows the "designer" C*; C** as applied to the oscillating
rib needles of the circular type of rib machines, or as an auxilliary to A².
Figure 17. shows a ribbing dial K with rigid retarding teeth or nibs J, and
leaves J¹.
Figure 18. another form of the dial K.
Figure 18 another form of dial K, showing the groove or channel k¹.
Figures 19, 194 and 19B represent views of the devices used for converting a one
feeder circular reversible knitter into a two or more feeder machine having an
auxiliary yarn guide M, M mounted on the pivoted strip m, the two guides being in
the same quarter section of the circle or thereabouts. The strip m may be
pivoted vertically as well as horizontally, but preferably on the lug N of the gear
ring. The sliding piece O has a cam surface or incline O+ upon which the upthrow
cam Figure 20 rises and falls. The lever 02 forcing it (the sliding piece)
one way and it is pulled back by the spring 03. The extra thread holes o, o,
are provided for the extra coloured threads employed in carrying out my
invention.
Figure 20 Sheet 2 shows the split cam R (and upthrow cams) forming an
arrangement for making two or more drawing inclines 2, 3, and r, for drawing
down the needles that take one coloured thread at a different time to those that
take the other coloured threads.

page_text: Figure 21 Sheet 2 is a bottom view of the improved needle cylinder B* having a
cam track provided on its periphery for the purpose of throwing the upthrow cam
into action on half the circle and out of action on the other half through the
influence of the lever 0%
66
In carrying out my invention for producing the new articles of hosiery 1 employ a
revolving toothed wheel hereinafter called "designer" marked A, this revolving
designer" attachment is used in place of any ordinary needle cam or incline, or used
in addition thereto, the great difference being that the pickers, or may be notches of
the "designer" are constantly changing their position in relation to the needles and,
while an ordinary needle cam or incline acts on all needles alike in every course,
my "designer" will act on some, and not on others in any manner desired, no matter
what type of machine is employed so long as the "designer" attachment is geared
thereto and meshes with the needles thereof. Therefore it will be readily under-
stood that I can by applying my "designer" to the simple or rudimentary parts of
any sliding needle knitting machine effecting any change in the position of the
needles or loops without employing the complicated and costly means now in use.
I can by using various styles of the "designer" hereinafter mentioned apply my
invention to any known type of sliding needle knitting machine without departing
from the essence of my invention, but to facilitate such application, or method of
application I have contrived or devised various attachments and have obtained new
and novel ornamental and plain fabrics and articles, and combinations in the form
of stockings, hereinafter described.
"
In some cases my revolving "designer" takes the form of a notched toothed
wheel as C Figure 16, in other cases it may take the form of a toothed wheel as C
and radially cut dial Ca Figures 1, 2 and 24, and in other cases it takes the form of
the "compound designer" seen in Figure 14 Sheet 2, or Figure 10 Sheet 1. The
former style consisting of a primary" A2 and an auxilliary designer" com-
bined H, and as an equivalent to the latter it may take the form of the disc or
wheel Cx above mentioned. I would have it understood that this auxilliary H
or C when employed in this capacity influences or controls the "pickers" arranged
in the primary designer A². For which purpose is employed the notches ď
Figure 16, the inner ends of the "pickers" alternately gear idly with the saw
gates d', allowing the pickers to pass by the needles under the cams E, E¹ without
influencing them, and actively with the notches d which have the power of
depressing the pickers and lifting their outer ends into action with the cams in the
designer" when the said pickers run up the incline or cam E and catch under the
hook (or may be foot) of the needles and raises them. (If the "designer" is
inverted the pickers will have an opposite influence on the needles depressing them
instead of raising them.) The notches d² may also act to depress the pickers in
advance of the cam E in which case the said pickers pass over the cam without
riding up the incline, and over the hooks of the needles without influencing them.
The pickers will in this case gear with the saw gates d³ aud ride up the incline of
the cam E and act on the needles.
66
In all cases the outer ends of the pickers, are brought down to their initial
position by the cam Ex Figures 3 and 5 at every revolution.
The picker fingers D' Figure 14 which are placed in the radial surface slots D'
of the auxilliary designer H are of various lengths and employed for the same
purpose as the notches d² of the wheel C*. When the aforesaid wheels H, or C*
are employed separately to the rocking or swing needle (shown in Figures 10, 11
and 12) type of machine either of them perform the functions of "designer" and
differentially influence and control the said rocking or swinging needles in a direct
manner as seen in Figure 10.
In Figure 1 Sheet 1 the "designer" is shown geared to a flat or circular needle
bed B, in the latter case it is secured on the cam box C by the screw C₁, in the
former case on the cam plate, or relative thereto, the gear wheel C, gearing with
the needle bed B, revolves on the axle C³ of the bracket C. Upon the toothed
wheel C and concentric therewith is a radially cut disc or dial Ca having as many

page_text: "
cuts or slots as there are teeth C2 in the wheel C corresponding to what is known
as the "
guage of the machine, and C' is an auxilliary bobbin on the axle C³
the thread of which is supported by the guide C. In this form of application the
needles are actuated upon by the designer at their hooked ends and lifted or
depressed as the case may require by the pickers or shifters D herein before
mentioned. To prevent the latches of the needles closing I provide a radial
brush d¹ fixed under the flange of the disc C*.
When the machine is rotated the said wheel or disc C* revolves in either
direction upon the axis C³ and always presents a slot in direct line with a needle.
Into the radial slots C', and into the circular groove C of the said disc I place the
bent portion or fulcrum D2 of the needle controllers or pickers D, or in some cases
hereinafter referred to as sinkers or loop transferrers P, P, P* made from one
piece of metal and rigid as in Figures 7, 8 and 8^ Sheet 1, or may be of two or
more pieces pivoted together as in Figure 6 and of any suitable shape, manner or
form that can be readily employed in conjunction with knitting needles F. for
actuating the said pickers or needle shifters and elevating or depressing them.
I also provide the cam cap el fixed upon the axle C³, above the radially cut disc Ca
attached to the said cap is the lower cam E for raising the outer end of the pickers
and the upper cam Ex for deflecting the pickers.
An opening e² is made in the cam cap el to allow of the pickers being inserted or
withdrawn the radial cuts or slots, for closing the opening I provide the gate e
Figures 1 and 1. Upon the under side of the cap el is provided a circular rim e*
which fits into the circular groove C of the disc C and forms the pivot for the
fulcrum D2 of the pickers D. The said pickers engaging with the hook of the
needles L bring them either into action, or out of action with the knitting cams, or
in some cases herein referred to the needles F Figures 9, 9 and 9B Sheet 1 are
shifted by the pickers, now used as transferrers, out of one needle bed into the other
singly or collectively in order to change from one pattern of rib to another, or for
making fancy combinations of pearl, plain and ribbed work such as in children's
gaiters and in fancy hosiery or other change or ornamentation required by the
particular form of article in process of manufacture.
The "designer" is modified to suit any particular style or construction of
machine for affixing thereto. When applying it to those using the well known
swing jack FI Figure 10 as aforesaid I preferably shape such needle stem to a
fulcrum F2 of any desired shape and dispense with the jack, the said needles being
made of one piece of steel wire F3 Figures 11 and 12 Sheet 1, the knitting motion
being arrived at by rocking on its fulcrum in a similar manner to the ordinary
swing jack F, and in like manner to the pickers D. The said fulcrumed needles
are placed in the tricks of any ordinary straight or circular needle bed, in the same
manner as other needles.
When applying my "designer" attachment to the said swing jack principle of
rib needle Figure 10 it takes the form of the circular disc or dial C* Figure 16
(or H' Figure 14) having differentially geared notches d² and indents or saw gates d³
on its periphery which engage with the needle jacks F¹ or F³.
This disc "designer" gears with the said jacks at any point or as shown in
Figure 10. When a sawgate takes or gears with a jack it remains inactive and
makes a tucked, mis-stitch or patterning coloured loop but when a notch comes
against the said jack it rocks on its fulcrum and the ordinary knitting motion is
performed.
The "designer" attachment has a divisional change in any form at every course
knitted as aforesaid, and to obtain the divisional change in both directions in this
style of primary designer, I employ an auxilliary disc or wheel C**, the two
forming a compound "designer." And I mount them on one common axis "see
Figure 10." One wheel will have a divisional change in one direction while the
other will have a divisional change in the opposite direction both being brought
about by being differential geared. In this form of "designer" it will be noticed
that no movable pickers are used, but the notches which of necessity take up the

page_text: function of the pickers may be made displacable or movable in the same manner as
the pickers, in this case I use the type of picker P Figure 8.
In Figure 2 will be seen the annular form of "designer". encircling a needle
cylinder or bed Bx, and geared by the teeth c³ excentrically therewith. This
"designer" is similar in section to the "designer" shown in Figure 1, and the
pickers, &c. are arranged in the cuts or slots cb, in the reverse manner.
cams E and Ex being also arranged (as shown in Figure 1, on the cap e¹) to this
annular "designer."
The
It is hardly necessary for me to state that knitted loops are made simple or
complex, normal or abnormal plain, fancy or ornamental or non-ornamental.
according to the longitudinal position taken up by the needles in the act of
knitting and with the foregoing description of my "designer" and the working of
the same it will readily be seen how and in what manner the "designer" attachment.
will make the fabric and articles enumerated.
In any case the "designer" when applied for making coloured patterns or designs.
in fancy stitches either in the single or as stated the "primary form " (though being
cut the same guage as the machine) must be differential so as to effect the required:
divisional changes at every course of knitting, the said differential, divisional,
movement bringing about the pattern or design, for instance, in reference to the
"designer" A Figure 1, for making a Scotch patterned "knicker hose" such as is
illustrated by Figure 13 Sheet 2 or a sock or ladies fancy stocking which may have,
the pattern stopped off down the back of the ankle under the foot, or have the
pattern down each side of the ankle only, or only at the knee. I arrange the
pattern to take a vertical, or diagonal, or oblique line. Assuming the number of
needles in the bed of the machine used to be 60, or six divisions of 10. The
"designer" may have 70 teeth and slots, or in divisions of 10, thus having one
more division than the needle divisions. In rotating the machine the "designer
in this case will change its position in relation to the needles to the extent of one
division at every revolution.
:
"
"
"
To aid me in placing the pickers in the slots I mark the first gained division on
the "designer" (No. 1), the next round it will have gained a second division which
I mark (No. 2) and so on marking them all in rotation until the seventh round,
when the seventh division will have been gained which I mark (No. 7) and
assuming (No. 1) division of the "designer to start at number one division of
needles it would require seven revolutions of the machine to put the "designer
completely through its changes, when it will have gained seven divisions and
number one division of the "designer" would again come to number one division
of the needles. Number one division of the needles would be actuated at the first
round by No. 1 division of the "designer," at the second round by No. 2 division,
at the third round by No. 3, at the fourth round by No. 4, at the fifth round
by No. 5, at the sixth round by No. 6, and at the seventh by No. 7. division, when
the pattern would be completed on No. 1 division of the needles the "designer'
would proceed to repeat the changes in the next successive round, the pattern on
the other five divisions of the needles being in progress in the same manner.
"
The design is determined by the way in which the shifters D. Figure 7 are
arranged in each division of the "designer" or "jacquard."
To make a half diamond pattern seperated by a vertical stripe Figure 13ª faucy
stitches, ornamental loops or colours as aforesaid I arrange the "designer "that is.
to say; the pickers in the "designer" in the following manner.
The two centre
needle shifters in No. 1 division are taken out, to make the vertical apex of the
half diamond, while the centre four of No. 2 division will make the second expansion
of the half diamond and the centre six of No. 3 division will make the third
expansion, the centre eight of the fourth division will make the fourth expansion,
and the whole ten of No. 5 division will make the full expanse of the half diamond,
and the two centre needle shifters of the sixth and seventh divisions will make the
vertical stripe to connect the finish of one half diamond from the commencement.
or apex of the next half diamond in the same section of the fabric.

page_text: .
The said pattern of each division of fabric may be one or more courses below the
pattern of the neighbouring division, on one side, and one or more courses above
the pattern of the neighbouring division on the other side. A smaller half diamond
may be made within the larger one by the insertion of extra pickers accordingly.
The said pattern in the fabric may be made of plain loops in an otherwise ribbed
fabric, or tucked or other fancy loops in simple plain fabric, or "vice versa." Or
may be a ribbed fabric in which the design is made in sections knitted in two
distinct plain fabrics back to back. The pattern may be coloured or simply a pile
of raised surface loops or other novel designs and effects created by any com-
bination of stitches, "see G' Figure 13 Sheet 2.
A
The complete dimensions of the pattern are larger or smaller according to the
number of needles in each division, or the number of divisions in the machine
and designer. When the pattern is made of one kind of stitch on or in the
fabric made of another kind of stitch, only one coloured thread is necessary,
although colours may be employed in this form of patterning, for instance. The
hose Figure 13 Sheet 2 may have a plain face with the pattern made thereon or
therein in ribbed loops, tucked loops, mis-stitch loops, or any combination of
abnormal or fancy loops such designing loops being made on either the plain or
the ribbing needles. In making an ornamental tucked knee in the leg of a
stocking suspend the tucking on certain needles at intervals, and produce
a pattern of normal loops on or in an otherwise tucked fabric or otherwise.
needle more or less in the machine or the "designer" gives it an additional
differential or traverse motion because it loses or gains the distance of a needle
at every revolution in addition to the divisional change, thus producing irregularly
disposed patterns. Also by having one slot and tooth or a division representing
one needle more or one needle less in the "designer" than there are needles in the
needle bed (say) 60 needles in the machine and 61 in the "designer" or
« vice
versa," the "designer" will change or traverse the distance of one needle only at
every revolution or rotation and the fancy stitches enumerated are shaped into
patterns according to the disposition of the pickers in the divisions, for instance;
by arranging the needle shifters, alternately, one in action, and one out of action
all round the circle, every other needle would knit and "tuck" alternately the
result being what is known as a "Royal rib" fabric, which can be made either in
rib and plain loops, or in plain fabric only, or patterned combinations thereof. By
having two slots and teeth more or less in the "designer" than there are in the
needle bed and arranging the needle shifters D two in action, and two out of action
all round the circle, every other two needles would knit and "tuck" alternately
the result being what is known as a "Saxon rib" fabric. This can also be made
in rib or plain fabric.
35
a
In some cases I make the "designer" to gear and act in the well known "loop
wheel" or "laying in wheel" form of gearing by which means I can dispense with
the pickers, the pattern in this case being a fixed one. Any number of the
"designers" can be applied to one machine, and they may be used for the purpose
of transferring needles or giving the clearing movement to the needle or
lateral deflection to the needles in either needle bed as the case may require.
When employing the "designer" to deflect the needles I employ the form shown
in Figure 16 or H Figure 14, geared to the upright needles L Figure 14, just
over the clearing or upthrow cam, the notches d² press certain needles back from
their normal position, and the coloured thread is in this case taken in between the
needles, that is to say; the deflected needles take the coloured thread in their
hooks while the said thread passes behind all those needles which are not
deflected, the pattern resulting according to the disposition (divisionally) of the
said notches d².
x
In order to describe the application of the "Jacquard" attachment for
shifting the needles from bed to bed I may observe that in fancy gaiter machines
of the present day that the two needle beds used whether cylindrical, radial
or straight, are on one common plane, and the ordinary sliding needles F

page_text: Figures 9, 94 9B Sheet 1 are periodically transferred from one bed to another by
ordinary steel cams acting on the inside of the hook or beard or acting in an indirect
manner through intervening cam jacks or blades. Such individual jacks or blades
push or pull, as the case may be the said needles through their knitting motions and
transfer them from bed to bed as required. Or I may dispense with the said cams
and cam jacks and employ one or more of the revolving "designers" or "jacquards"
at any suitable angle to the needle bed on front of the needles F. The pickers D. P*,
(or modifications thereof having a hole, indent or both in the connecting end) are
employed to strike or catch on the needle hook and push or pull the needle F
backwards and forwards through its knitting motions, or from bed to bed. Any
needle or section of needles may be transferred independently of neighbouring.
needles at any course knitted in a constantly varying series of change until an
article or fabric is completed when the series of change re-commences.
The
changes being arrived at by the novel differential and traverse gearing herein
shown and described. It will therefore be seen that when I apply the double ended
needles F to seamless hose machines of any well known type such as the "Griswold,"
Royal" or the like in conjunction with my revolving "jacquard" I absolutely
dispense with the transference of needles, or needle loops by hand as is now the
case when altering the pattern of rib in the making of seamless stockings and
the like.
65
It will therefore be understood that the "designer" attachment can be employed
for shifting the needles from one track or position, or cam to another, or from one
needle bed to another and determine when a needle shall or shall not take the
knitting thread and make mis-stitch or other accumulated loops in the body or on
the back, or on the face of the fabric, or shall knit a loop, or not knit a loop, or
shall form a rib or plain or tucked loop independent of its neighbouring needles at
every course and enable me to make tucked mis-stitch or fancy fabrics having
ornamental stitches raised to the surface of the fabric, and patterns made in corded,
cellular, indented, cross stitch, honey-comb, open work, stockinette, lace, or inlaid
fabric or coloured checked, or other like pattern fabrics. In the same manner and
by the same means of differential gearing the "designer" attachment enables me
to make the heels, toes or series of the same in the form of a cap automatically.
The "designer" also enables me to change from. "one and one" rib or other
combinations of ribbed fabric to imitate plain, or other pattern of ribbed fabric or
"vice versa."
Such changes being accomplished in the following manner the
machine intermittently mis-stitching or suspending knitting on certain rib needles
and throwing or accumulating the rib loops on the back of the fabric all of which
is brought about by the differential action of the "designer" attachment on the
needles causing them to mis-stitch and knit alternately, the rib intake, loop
hereinafter referred to as the patterning loop changing the fabric from one pattern
of rib to imitate another without transferring certain loops or their needles from
one needle bed to another as is now the case. In like manner I employ the
"designer"attachment to fashion the fabric which is also accomplished by making
such intake loops, and superposing or accumulating them upon the other face of the
fabric, instead of in the front face of the fabric which is done as may be required,
the fashioning and patterning of the fabric taking place without transferring
needles, or transferring loops from needle to needle and accomplished by the same
patterning process of intermittently mis-stitching or suspending the fashioned needle
loops upon the back of the fabric, the necessary motion for making the mis-stitches,
tuck stitches, or suspending patterning and fashioning loops being imparted to the
needles by the "designer" attachment.
The said fabric though apparantly being changed from one pattern of rib to
another is only an imitation change it being a real rib fabric all through, having
certain rib loops welted or accumulated at the back of the fabric in alternate
courses, the rib being quite visible when the fabric is horizontally stretched.
The fashioning loops of a plain machine, are interposed on the front surface of the:
body loops of the fabric.

page_text: :
The loops of the fabric or article are composed solely of a single yarn thread.
I may say that in the manufacture of hosiery it often occurs that one thread 'is
duplicated by a thread of different nature or colour and not unfrequently a thread
of inferior yarn is made workable by knitting it in with an auxilliary fine thread of
a strong splicing yarn and for hard wear a re-enforcing thread is often used in
addition to the main or body thread. In this case I am enabled to make a real or
perfect change in the pattern of rib with the assistance of the splicing or auxilliary
thread which I do by suspending the patterning or fashioning loops in the
following manner. I employ the auxilliary fine splicing or re-enforcing thread in
addition to the body thread, the body of the fabric (or face) being composed of
both threads of yarn, the patterning and fashioning loops being composed of the
'splicing thread only.
When the rib needles are actually knitting the body or surface pattern of the
fabric in conjunction with the plain needles they take both threads and make
normal rib stitches, but when the rib needles which make the patterning or
fashioning loops are accumulating or forming the said loops on the back of the
fabric though knitting normally they only take the splicing thread (this may be
done at every course without welting, or at alternate courses) thereby making the
back splicing loops, referred to as patterning or fashioning loops, which makes.
a fabric of one pattern of rib change to another pattern of rib, or plain, such
back splicing loops being invisible from the outer face of the fabric whether
'horizontally stretched or not.
When the said rib patterning or fashioning loops which in this case are continued
to the finish of the fabric or article I may have them brushed out in the finishing
or trimming operation and provide a "fulling" or backing nap, or a fleecy padded
fabric, and when the fabric is made with the said splicing thread back loops in the
piece or length it is admirably adapted as "stockinette "fabric for cutting out into
various garments.
In some types of hosiery I cast the said suspended patterning or fashioning loops
off the needles, after two or three courses which can be done without making
dropped stitches or running stitches in the fabric such as is made, when an ordinary
body thread or stitch is dropped from the needle. This discontinuance of the
suspended back loops makes the fabric or article lighter in weight.
The rib needles take up new loops at the commencement of the next article.
Assuming the "designer" is full of pickers, coverers, or controllers and their duty
was to initiate knitting, ordinary fabric would be knitted. But if (as in some
cases) the pickers are adapted or applied to suppress knitting (when in making a
'heel or other like part, or to transfer the needles or their loops from one bed to the
other as when altering the pattern of fabric then divers needles will suspend
knitting or be transferred, or their loops will be transferred accordingly. In the
latter case the pickers are provided with a hooked or quill like point such as
is well known to the trade as 66
coverer or "loop transferrer" the only difference
being in the fulcrum shown at F2 D2 in the drawings accompanying this
Specification.
"
The working principle of the "designer" consists of its adaptability to actuate
the needles seperately or collectively and to transfer needles from one bed to bed
or loops from needle to needle (with or without the differential change motion) and
of its ability to displace the sliding needles in their longitudinal movement, in this
case a constantly re-occurring series of divisional change or motion effected by
'differential gearing, for the purpose of making them knit in accordance with the
requirements of and to conform their loops to and in the manufacture of every
description of knitted fabric and every kind of knitted wearing apparel and my
novel seamless fabrics and articles, all of which is accomplished by a continuous
and uninterrupted motion of a geared wheel or wheels or their equivalents, which I
designate "designers."
From the various descriptions it will scarcely be necessary for me to show all
the varying modes or means of their application, as required by the many different

page_text: เส
"
styles and forms of machines now in use, for it will be well understood that the
designers can, by only slight modifications or alterations be attached to any
type or form of knitting machine in which the needles have a longitudinal
movement, for instance; in patterning a complete seamless hose or the like the
knitting needles L are employed in series or divisions of different patterns, each
division to be controlled by an extra independent "designer," or any number of
extra auxilliary "designers" H can be employed attached to one fundamental
or primary "designer" for the same purpose in the form as seen in Figure 14,
Sheet 2, or Figure 10, Sheet 1, the whole working in unison to bring about a
predetermined series of changes in the needles, and the needle pickers D may be
arranged in divisions in the primary "designer" A2, each division of shifters or
pickers" D may have their tails d' of a different length or pattern and each
series be influenced or controlled by a set of fingers D', arranged in order in the
auxilliary "designer" H and independent of the other division of shifters D,
different patterns of fingers D¹ to those shown may be arranged in the radial slots
of the auxilliary designer H.
"
The said "designers are geared to the needle bed. at any angle desired, or as
shown in Figures 1 and 14, and the pickers may be pivoted, or sliding to accomplish
the purpose of this iny invention.
$6
In gearing the designer" to the ribber dial of a domestic type of knitter it
would of necessity be in the form of "bevel," "loop-wheel" or "laying in wheel"
type of gearing or approximately so.
"
"
By the aforesaid compound developements in the "designer" I am enabled to
make very large patterns or shapes such as a heel or toe in the fabric, and obtain a
greater variety of changes in the "designer" and consequently more intricate
patterns and otherwise increase greatly the capabilities of all knitting machines in
which the needles have an end wise movement whether they be self acting latch or
bearded needles, and greater lengths of fabric are obtained between one change
and another succeeding change, such as is required in the making of a "one and one
66 two and one or other
ribbed top "see Figure 15 Sheet 2, and changing to a
pattern of ribbed leg, and then changing to "four and one" in the ankle and top of
the foot, such patterning changes in the fabric being brought about in the novel
manner described, the heel and toe may be made of any well known pattern, or a
ribbed heel and toe, or 'n heel and toe of a plain outside and ribbed in, and the
under part of the foot plain or ribbed. All of these it will be seen requires a
considerable amount of knitting to take place between one change of rib pattern
and another. In this case the fundamental " designer "A2 is provided with the
same number of radial slots as there are needles in the needle bed with which it is
engaged. Or it may have only half the number. The auxilliary designer H in
this case being changeable or differentially geared.
The part of my invention as relating to seamless hose consists of altering the
pattern of rib, fashioning the leg and instep and shaping the heel and toe by
intermittently or periodically accumulating or suspending the rib loops on the back
surface of the plain loops and periodically incorporating them with the plain loops
in the body or front surface of the fabric, that is to say; making abnormal back
16
or Jacquard
loops and normal rib loops, as required by the "designer
attachment herein before described, which said article has not hitherto been
produced.
•
"
"
The patterning, shaping and fashioning changes take place in part of a stocking,
half-hose or sock, seamless pant leg, or seamless jacket arm, in any desired manner,
and purpose only to particularly describe an average type of such improved
stocking "see Figure 15, Sheet 2, without regard to the many equivalent ways and
modifications of patterning and fashioning which changes of fashion may suggest.
And I would have 'it understood that in making the said improved stocking, for
leg of a stocking, one "designer" is attached to the "dial" or "cone," or in the
case of swing jack machines to the jack F' as seen in Figure 10 to influence the

page_text: rib needles, and one "designer" is attached to a cylinder "as shown" to control
the plain or vertical needles.
"
«
"
"
The stocking I Figure 15, Sheet 2 is made having a one and one pattern of
rib top, a "two and one tucked pattern leg fashioned down to a "four and one
patterned ankle and instep and a plain variable sectionally knitted heel it, and
toe, and plain bottom of foot, the said article being seamless throughout.
3
The process of making this is as follows: I first make the "one and one" ribbed
top (the machine being provided with as many rib as plain needles for the purpose)
the dial or ribber "designer" causing all the rib needle loops to be normally
incorporated in the front surface of the fabric. I next make the "two and one
patterned leg by the said "designer" causing every alternate rib loop herein called
the patterning loops to be suspended or accumulated by intermittently knitting and
welting on alternate needles, or by the said alternate rib needles form splicing loops
on the back surface of the plain loops. I next fashion the ankle down to "four
and one" pattern of rib, the said ribber "designer" causing additional and corre-
sponding rib loops to be suspended or accumulated or spliced on the back surface
of the plain loops in the same manner.
I next make the plain fabric heel, at this point the said ribber "designer" causes
all the rib needles upon three sixths of the circle of the needles to suspend knitting
at, the cylinder or plain "designer" also causing three sixths of the circle of the
plain needles to also suspend knitting at i, increasing them by one or more needles
at every course knitted to five sixths until the apex 8 is reached, then I decrease
the suspended needles by one or more at every course knitted, again to three sixths,
when at, the whole of the circle of needles are re-installed, all the rib loops in the
heel having been suspended or accumulated or spliced on the back of the plain
loops, or knitted in the body or front face of the fabric if desired, the foot is then
knitted on the full complenient of needles; the rib or dial "designer" causing all
the rib loops to be suspended or accumulated on the back of the plain loops except
every fourth corresponding to "four and one rib on the top of the foot. The
rib "designer" and the cylinder or plain "designer" working in conjunction causes.
the toe to be made in the same manner as the heel, the said toc being joined across
by a mending stitch in the usual way to complete the article. Any part of the heel
.and foot or toe may be made in rib fabric, and any of the suspended rib stitches
may be discontinued at any time if required. My improved stocking as above
described if turned inside out, when knitted from one single thread will have the
appearance of a "one and one "ribbed fabric (or other pattern of which it may
have been commenced,) throughout, certain of the rib loops being welted,
accumulated, or mis-stitched. If the said stocking be knitted with an auxilliary
thread, if turned inside out it will have the appearance of normal "one and one
ribbed fabric, with certain rib loops made from the auxilliary thread only. When
the auxilliary loops are cast off or discontinued the fabric will actually change its
pattern of "one and one "rib on both sides the fabric, to another pattern of rib or
plain as may be desired.
To add extra coloured threads for making checks, tartans, plaids and the like
pattern on a one feeder machine I employ auxilliary thread-holes o in the guide.
"see Figure 19" and diagonally split the stitch cam R Figure 20. In this figure
it will be seen that the cams are shown as looking from the outside of the cam box
and from the back side of the cams, the strips Rx bracing the split cams 1
together, thereby making a lower drawing incline, a middle incline, and an
upper incline to the stitch cam R, one positive incline clearing cam in this
instance remaining in action, but an additional depressing cam which is employed
but "not shown "draws all the needles down to the needle stand preparatory to
their taking the knitting threads as arranged by the pickers in the "designer," and
as a result (say) a red thread may be drawn by the changing series of needles that
are not acted upon by the "designer," these needles take the "normal" line of..
travel, or lower incline in drawing their loops, and (say) a "white" thread is drawn

page_text: by
"
by the changing series of needles actuated to the middle stage or incline
employing different lengths of controllers or pickers D such as Figures 6 and 7,
when the split stitch cam is used in drawing their loops, and (say) a "blue thread
may be drawn by the changing series of needles actuated to the highest or upper
stage, by the full throw series of needle controllers Figure 6, which series taking
the third or upper line of travel in drawing their loops may pass over one feeder
to the next. The hooks of the series of needles taking a "normal" line of travel
misses the "white" and "blue" threads. The hooks of the series of needles taking
the half way line of travel misses the "blue thread" their latches being above-
the "red thread this is also missed. The latches of those needles taking the
" threads.
upper stage of travel being above and beyond the "red" and "white"
these are missed, and a pattern in solid colour is thus produced. In this fabric
each loop is backed up by a transverse thread or non-knitted loop. But the
selected needles that take one set line of travel may take two of the threads,
thereby producing patterns in which certain loops will have two colours blended or
mottled. In this case some of the loops are not backed up by the transverse loops
or non-knitted threads..
When it is desired to make a patterned plated fabric that is to say; a fabric-
composed of two coloured threads to make one surface of one colour and the other
surface of another colour and having no transverse non-knitted loops whatever
therein, I feed (say) a black thread and a white thread to the needles, the top or-
"black" thread coming on the back of the fabric, the "white" or bottom thread.
coming on the front of the fabric, the back thread is brought to the front, and the
front thread taken to the back of the fabric at intervals by the arrangement of the-
pickers in the "designer" as aforesaid.
In a two or more feeder machine a different or various colours is used to each
feeder in order to produce horizontal stripes, or three or more coloured threads.
may be used at each feeder. To deviate the said stripes into the form of patterns.
the usual clearing cam is taken out of action at one feeder and the "designer"
brought into requisition in its place, or employed in addition, and certain series of
needles are consequently made to miss one thread and not form loops of that thread
at any feeder. When only one thread is employed any needles may miss knitting
for any number of courses producing the fancy fabrics mentioned for instance :-
where a controller engages with a needle, that needle will clear its old loop and
form a new one, or pass over one feeder without forming a loop.
Where the needle controllers are withdrawn or rendered inactive by the
auxilliary designer H or by having their pivoted end thrown back the corre-
sponding needles will not knit a given thread, and so on all round the circle.
.
This may be repeated at each feeder, and those needles missing one colour of
thread are made to take up another coloured thread at the same feeder, as above.
described in reference to a one feeder machine, or from one of the other feeders..
The missed threads being thrown on the back of the fabric in the form of what is.
technically known as "overshot work." This is work in which one thread passes
transversely over the back of the stitches of another thread as aforesaid but the
needles which do not knit any particular thread may take the said overshot
thread in their hooks, and throw it off again on to the back of the fabric in the
form of a tucked stitch, while others may miss the thread altogether, which
tacks the slack overshot or non-knitted threads transversely to the back of the
fabric.
Such an accumulation of non-knitted loops on the back of the fabric pushes the
corresponding surface loop forward and makes a fabric having raised stitches,
technically known as "tucked loops" so well known in fancy knitted gloves.
These loops may be made to conform to any pattern such as a
"diamond" or
square or floral design and made in one or a variety of colours or fancy stitches as
aforesaid. The pattern thereof being determined by the "designer" in the manner
hereinbefore described.
Small spur or cam wheels may have been used in conjunction with the ordinary

page_text: solid fixed cams and applied for the purpose of deflecting or laterally displacing
sliding knitting needles but not to produce the same effect or for the purposes of
this my invention.
To prevent the loose thread of a suspended yarn supply from becoming entangled
with the knitting threads I cut a slit in the nose of the bobbin or other convenient
part thereof such as is seen in a sewing cotton reel to keep the loose end of the,
thread secure..
To prevent the thread and knots being trapped in the tricks of the dial which.
often occurs in making fancy fabrics in which additional loops are accumulated
on the needles I provide the circumferential groove cut into the knocking
over point of the tricks from the underneath side of the ribbing dial. This is
accomplished in a similar manner in the cylinder.
To assist or dispense with dial posts in such machines the dial is held stationary
by making a connection between the two needle beds above the knitting level
in the following manner. I rigidly or otherwise attach or form projections or
nibs, or teeth J upon the periphery of the ribbing dial K. Figures 17, 17A.
and 18 Sheet 2 (which may take the form of needles jacks or sinkers, or sliding
cross piece working underneath the dial and alternately engaging and disengaging
with the tricks of the cylinder) and extending beyond the circle described
by the cylinder needles L, these teeth or nibs impinge on the side of or
mesh with the cylinder needles L, tricks L' or sinkers, or they may be meshed to.
a revolving toothed wheel which is in turn geared to and receives its motion
from the tricks of the needle cylinder and prevents the dial rotating with the
moving parts of the machine. The jacks or sinkers may be attached to the
cylinder in some styles of machines and act in the reverse manner. When
the fixed nibs or teeth gear or mesh with the fixed cylinder tricks or sinkers the
dial is mounted slightly out of the centre and has a slight undulating or excentric
motion causing it to gear on one section at a time only and leave a space or gap for
the loops to pass through on the other section of the cylinder. The said
space or gap constantly shifting its position circumferentially with the gearing
motion of the dial. The shogging of the needles for making shogged welts
is readily accomplished by shogging the dial one trick circumferentially in
either directions and I maintain a constant shogging motion as required according
to the number of needles and teeth more, or needles and teeth less, in the dial than
there are in the cylinder employed.
In Figure 17 Sheet 2 is illustrated the movable nib form of holding the dial
stationary consisting of the movable or vibrating nibs J' which are fulcrummed on
the circular wire or other ring underneath the dial and engage with the cylinder
tricks as aforesaid, the elastic spring holding the nibs back in the ribber dial K,
the ribber cams or the excentric spindle being employed to push them forward into
contact with the cylinder tricks L' (dotted line Figure 17) or the sinkers or
needles thereof.
When desired to convert a "two feeder" machine into a
"
"one
feeder machine
for forming an ordinary heel and toe of a stocking as set forth in my prior Patent
No. 13706 of 1890, I make the extra thread guide or thread guides detachable
"see Figure 19 Sheet 1." In order to effect this they are mounted on a strip or
annular section of metal M, which is pivoted to the lug N of the ordinary yarn
guide, and when the making of heels and toes is accomplished by hand and so that
the guides do not impede the manipulation of needles the are drawn back and held
by springs "not shown." I also make the ordinary clearing cams adjustable to
three positions by the aid of the (vertical or horizontal) sliding piece or block or
may be a pivoted inclined quadrant O, in connection therewith, having the incline O
When the sliding piece O is at its lowest point, the clearing cam is down and
entirely out of action consequently those series of needles not actuated by the
designer" miss the thread. When the sliding piece o is adjusted to its second
position the clearing cam imparts a short movement to the needles, and such needles
accumulate a loop.

page_text: When the sliding piece O is in the higher position the clearing cam is fulfilling
its ordinary office, and ordinary knitting is proceeded with.
To make ordinary plain knitting in the underpart of the foot, and the back part
of the ankle and a fancy pattern of leg and instep the clearing cam is caused to be
put into full action every time it passes across the half circle in each course of
knitting automatically by the sliding piece OI make the bottom ring of a
cylinder B'Figure 21, Sheet 2 solid or uncut, s and form therein or in the bed of
the machine a cam track commencing at s and finishing at 2, and provide the
upthrow cam or the said sliding piece O, with a switch lever 02 on the gear
ring OFigure 19." When this lever is thrown on to the same track the sliding
piece O is forced along at one half the circle and back at the other half of the
circle by aid of the spring O³, the upthrow cam " Figure 20" being raised or
lowered accordingly.
66
I can employ the "designer" attachment to machines as a loop or fabric
depresser by using in place of the pickers D, fulcrummed wires or blade
sinkers P, Px Figures 8, 84, as the sinkers revolve round in the manner of the
designer" shown in Figure 1 the sinker ends come in contact with the cylinder
loops, and being rocked on their ends they press the loops as they are drawn over
the tricks of the needle bed over the hooks thereof. The said loops are thereby
secured and the fabric is pressed downwards without the use of weights, the
"designer" need not in this case be differentially geared, but the said loops
depressing "designer" having the loop sinkers therein may be employed either
outside or inside the cylinder in the latter case it would be mounted underneath
the dial or ribber needle bed.
My new articles of machine made hosiery produced by the hereinbefore described
contrivances mainly take the form of what is known as "seamless" hose, or may
be legs thereof or similar conically fashioned articles or fabric such as leglets, or
armlets, such as put in pants or jackets and the like having a top or wrist band of
any pattern of rib an arm or leg of another pattern of rib or plain. And for hose,
the ankle may be fashioned or not fashioned as before described, a sectionally
knitted, heel, a circularly knitted foot and toe of a similar character, in which the
patterning and fashioning loops are withdrawn from the body of the fabric by miss
stitching or welting or by making splicing loops as before described. The fabric
in the former case having an imitation change, and in the latter case a real change
in the pattern.
They also take the form of new or novel fancy fabrics, stockings, glove hands
and wrists or tops, and other ornamental articles of knitted plain hosiery in which
the fancy loops or coloured patterns are irregularly disposed owing to the constant
traverse of the patterns collectively in a diagonal direction. In making patterned
hose or the like such articles have a leg, or leg and foot or instep made in plaited
or otherwise coloured patterns such as plaids, tartans, diagonal regular or irregular
stripes or shapes. Or in raised or flushed loops or combinations of two kinds of
loops formed in any of the above enumerated patterns.
The process of making which is as follows: For example; if it is desired to
produce a Scotch (mens or womens) plaid hose or the like, (say) in colours the top
of which is "two and two" rib, the leg (say) "six and two" or "five and two"
ribbed fabric, the "designer" is brought into requisition to provide the raised
loops, coloured or ribbed or other patterns, having arrived at the calf of the leg,
the ankle is fashioned either in any already well known manuer or by the means as
herein described, still providing the pattern of such raised loops or colour all round
or only on the front half of the ankle, or only down the sides of the ankle. The
heel is sectionally knitted in the old style and in the following manner. The outer-
most needle of the half circle is suspended at every reciprocation of the thread or
threads, across the needles until the apex of the heel is reached, when at every
reciprocation of the thread across the needles the innermost of the suspended needles
is re-installed until the said half section of needles is reached, when circular
knitting is again proceeded with on the whole of the circle of needles. The pattern
C

page_text: is continued only in the front of the ankle and instep, or all round the ankle and
foot until the commencement of the toe is reached which is sectionally knitted in
the same manner as the heel, or in any other well known manner.
I make my improved seamless double striped ball heel g, Figure 13 Sheet 2 to
the said stocking, or any stocking or sock by suspending knitting on six twelfth's
of the circle of needles increasing by one needle at every two courses knitted, to
eight twelfth's when the bottom forepart g2 of the heel is reached. I then abruptly
increase the suspended needles to ten twelfth's, by suspending two twelfth's simul-
taneously and commence to knit the ball or bottom part of the heel by decreasing
the suspended (ten twelfth's) needles at every two, or may be three courses knitted
until I return again to eight twelfth's when the heel is finished, the narrowings g³
and widenings g having been done on two distinct sections or divisions of the
needles at each side of the half circle each section representing a twelfth or there-
abouts of the full circle of needles employed.
I make to the said stocking, or any other seamless stocking my improved long
taper seamless double striped toe g³ Figure 13, Sheet 2 by suspending knitting on
three sixth's of the circle of needles employed increasing the suspensions by one
needle at every two courses knitted to five sixth's until I reach the apex gº,
decreasing the suspensions by one needle at every two courses knitted until I return
again to three sixths when it is finished, such parts or combination of such parts
have not hitherto been made.
66
In my improved seamless type of hose or half-hose I may also have parts thereof
such as the leg and foot, made up of that kind of pattern fabric known as
Royal" or "Saxon" rib or combinations thereof, that is to say; a plain fabric
of one set of loops having broad sinker wales between adjacent needles formed of
crossed threads which give the appearance of a ribbed looped fabric. Or made
of a ribbed fabric of two sets of loops having the said broad sinker wales in the
plain loops in addition to the ribbed loops which make the said ribbed loops more
apparent and of a more full and flexible nature. Such sinker wales. or imitation
rib lines are arrived at on the plain needles by alternately tucking or accumulating
a loop or loops on neighbouring needles in the manner before described. The
process of making the article is as follows for example; for an imitation ribbed
half hose made on one set of needles in plain fabric, I bring a primary ❝designer
having a divisional change of one needle arranged with one picker D in, and one
out alternately, into action, every other needle knitting at one course whilst the
remaining tricks then reverse the order of things and so on, making a few inches
of " Royal" rib to represent the "one and one top. I then use another primary
designer" arranged with two pickers in, and two out alternately having a
divisional change of two needles, and make the leg and foot of imitation two and
one ribbed ("Saxon rib") fabric by tucking on every two needles whilst the
remaining and intervening two's are knitting, then reversing the order of things
and so on.
"
Instead of using two "designers" I can change from the "one and one
" tucks
to the "two and two" (Saxon rib) tucks on a single "designer" in the following
manner. Firstly. By employing the pickers with the pivoted ends D Figure 6
and throwing the pivoted end into action with the needles, or out of action with
the needles, according to the disposition of the pickers required. Secondly. By
employing the compound notched type of "designer" C* and C** Figures 10
and 16 meshed with and controlling the pickers in the manner as aforesaid.
The notches of the said compound "designer" is so arranged that when one
only is acting upon the pickers "one and one "tucks will be made whilst the two
in conjunction will make two and two" tucks. The sectionally knitted heel and
toe is then made and the article is finished.
The stocking shown in Figure 13 Sheet 2 consists of a top which is horizontally
striped outside, and inside, for turning down (as shown); the stripes are produced
by intermittently tucking, welting and knitting alternately on either of two feeders
in the machine. A leg patterned in any of the fancy plain or rib and plain looped

page_text: patterned mis-stitched, tuck-stitched, or coloured effects mentioned, the overshot
or un-knitted threads being tacked or connected to the back of the fabric
transversely, thickened, duplicated or re-enforced down to the bottom of the calf
by tucked or mis-stitch rib loops conically narrowed and thinned or slendered at
the ankle by the graduated or abrupt removal or discontinuance of part or all of
the said tucked or mis-stitch rib loops or by supplanting one count of yarn for a
finer yarn. The pattern remaining intact from the top of the leg to the top of the
heel despite the narrowings g', double stripes are then continued through the
seamless ball heel g, and the taper toe g, made as herein before described.
I am aware that in knitted fabrics single or vertical right angle stripes in
the form of upright squares and such combinations of vertical and horizontal
stripes have been made but my graduated diamond, zig zag, or cross spirals, or
diagonals of identical colour or other irregular outlines in which the patterns all
lean obliquely, have not been produced before in knitted hosiery. Nor has an
ornamental seamless rib fabric having graduated vertical patterns such as diamonds,
or half diamonds vertically disposed or any pattern other than square or combina-
tions of right angular stripes been made. I am also aware that non-fashioned
tubular fabrics have been made in which imitation changes of rib pattern have
been brought about by knitting intermittently or welting the ribber needle-loops
on the back surface of the fabric, but my improved conically fashioned circular
complete seamless stocking or sock (with or without a sectionally knitted heel and
toe) or web, made intact from one machine have not hitherto been known. Nor
has a seamless non-fashioned or fashioned tubular fabric or complete seamless
article in which actual changes of rib pattern are brought about by knitting the
rib loops from a splicing or auxilliary thread only on the back of the fabric, and
casting them off the needles when required been made before.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of this inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed 1 declare that what I
claim is:
1. As a new article of manufacture in knitted ribbed seamless ornamental
hosiery and fabrics, such as stockings, gloves, muffs, jersey's, caps, bonnets, and the
like articles of wearing apparel having one coloured diamond or such like graduated
or irregular pattern next or adjacent to a diamond or diamonds of another colour
or colours. Or having transverse or diagonal, or spiral stripes of identical colour
intersecting each other in such a manner as to make the outlines of diamond shape
with or without other additional complex surface patterns. Or any floral and
ornamental designs or effects in colours, (other than a single spiral of one colour
or simple parallel vertical and horizontal stripes, squares or combinations of such
right angle patterns), having the slack over shot or non-knitted threads tacked or
connected transversely to the back of the fabric, or plaited on the back without
loose threads, or in the case of ribbed fabrics, sandwiched (the over shot thread
lying between the two sets of loops,) between the rib and plain loops in the divers.
forms and as in the manner set forth. And the herein described process of
making such seamless or ribbed articles and fabrics substantially as described.
2. As a new article of manufacture in ribbed and plain knitted ornamental
hosiery and fabrics such as stockings, gloves, muffs, jerseys, caps, bonnets and the
like articles of knitted wearing apparel made in any coloured patterns, in which
the said patterns are irregularly disposed or arranged in a constant diagonal
direction, no two adjacent patterns being parallel with each other (that is to say
no two neighbouring patterns are disposed in a regular direct vertical or horizontab
line). Such irregular disposition of the patterns being brought about by having a
constant traverse in one direction of the patterning apparatus as hereinbefore
described and set forth, and the process of producing the same.
3. As a new article of manufacture in ornamental hosiery and fabrics such as
stockings, gloves, muffs, jerseys, caps, bonnets and the like articles of knitted
wearing apparel having any pattern, figure or design disposed or arranged in any

page_text: manner, the said patterns, figures or designs being made or shaped by any combina-
tion of normal and abnormal loops as enumerated that is to say; a pattern, figure
or design made on or in a fabric of another kind of loop. Such articles being
made in one or more colours as desired, and ornamented throughout or in parts
thereof such as an ornamental tucked knee which may be made by knitting at
intervals on certain tucking needles the result being a diamond or other pattern of
normal rib loops on an otherwise tucked fabric, or the rib loops may be suspended
on the back and knitted in the front at intervals the result being a figure or design
of ribbed loops on an otherwise plain faced fabric as specified and set forth and the
process of making the same.
4. As a new article of manufacture a patterned seamless stocking, or legs thereof
as illustrated in Figure 13 having a pattern or design throughout, or only down
to the heel, or with the back half section of the ankle and foot without a design
or un-patterned. The pattern or design being made in colcurs or a combination of
normal or abnormal loops, that is to say: A design of one kind of loops on a
fabric of another kind of loop, and the process of making the same.
5. As a new article of manufacture in patterned or non-patterned seamless hose
or the like or legs of stockings and the like, duplicating, thickening and widening
at the calf by accumulating or mis-stitching loops on the rib needles, and narrowing
and slendering without distorting the pattern at the ankle by the graduated or
abrupt removal or discontinuance of such thickening and widening rib loops as
illustrated in Figure 13 and the herein described process of fulling the calf
fashioning the ankle and narrowing and shaping the foot and making the pattern
of the same.
6. As a new article of manufacture in hosiery a stocking or the like having a
seamless ball shaped heel g, 92 and 9, in which the narrowings or contractions g³
and widenings or expansions g' are formed or knitted upon distinct diversions or
independent sections of the complement of needles, also any seamless heel having
the striped effect in colours and the herein described process of fashioning, shaping
and making the same.
7. As a new article of manufacture in hosiery a stocking or the like having a
long tapered seamless toe g Figure 13 Sheet 2 in which two courses are knitted
between every narrowing or widening of the active section of needles, also any
seamless toe having the striped effect in colours, and the herein described process
of fashioning and making the same as hereinbefore described.
8. As a new article of manufacture in seamless hosiery a patterned or non-
patterned surfaced stocking or the like having a turn over ribbed top as seen in
Figure 13 Sheet 2 with horizontal and vertical stripes or squares made without
tying knots by tucking mis-stitching and normal knitting intermittently upon
alternate feeders in which two or more colours are used, and the process substantially
as herein before described.
9. As a new article of manufacture in seamless knitted wearing apparel or
fabrics, a complete seamless stocking or the like such as is seen in Figure 15
Sheet 2, having a knitted conically fashioned leg, or may be jacket arm, or pant
leg, composed of combinations of rib and plain loops, in which the imitation pattern
changing loops and rib fashioning intake loops are accumulated or superposed on
the back of the fabric by intermittently knitting the body thread on the rib
needles, and the herein described process of patterning fashioning and shaping the
same, substantially as described.
10. As a new article of manufacture in hosiery fabrics and articles of seamless
knitted wearing apparel, a complete stocking or the leg thereof such as Figure 15,
Sheet 2 or other such like conically fashioned article such as a jacket arm, or
pant leg composed of combinations of rib and plain loops in which the pattern
changing loops and fashioning intake loops are made only of a fine splicing or
auxilliary thread and accumulated or suspended on the outer surface of the fabric,
which process will give a two looped fabric the appearance of a one looped or plain
fabric separately or in combination. The said accumulated back or splicing loops

page_text: can be brushed into a nap or "fluff" to provide a padded or fleecy lined foot and
ankle. Or with the said suspended loops discontinued collectively or singly as
required by casting off the loops from the rib needles after a few suspended loops
have been knitted and the herein described process of making the fabric and
patterning, fashioning and shaping the said articles and fabrics.
11. As a new article of manufacture in hosiery fabrics and articles of seamless
knitted wearing apparel having superposed back rib loops brushed so as to form
a fluffy or fleecy lining.
12. As a new article of manufacture in foot wearing apparel a complete seamless
plain looped stocking or sock having a sectionally knitted heel and toe, a top of
one pattern of tuck mis-stitch or other fancy loop and a leg of a different kind of
loop such for instance as a top of "Royal rib
"rib
or imitation "one and one
stitch and a leg and instep of Saxon rib or imitation 2 and 1 rib stitch, or plain
stitch made intact from one machine by tucking or mis-stitching on neighbouring
needles alternately and the herein described process of manufacturing the same.
13. As a new article of manufacture a plain or ribbed knitted seamless or
selvidged fabric having a variety or multiplicity of patterns adjacent to one
another and in progress simultaneously in which patterns or designs are irregularly
disposed in a diagonal line such for instance as a square, floral, ornamental, or
polygonal designs of fancy colours or stitches side by side or contiguous, and the
process of making the same as set forth.
14. The combined swing jack and needle F2 and F3 formed out of steel wire,
substantially as for the purpose set forth.
15. A ribber dial or inner needle bed provided with a groove k¹ on the underside
of its circumference, and nibs, teeth or projections J, J', or in the form of needles,
jacks or sinkers employed or crosspieces provided to engage, or to mesh and gear
with the needles, tricks or sinkers of the needle bed, (also the employment of a
toothed wheel to mesh with the said "nibs" and needle cylinder), thereby
circumferentially connecting the two needle beds above the knitting level and
retarding the dial, and maintaining a correct relation between the two needle
beds.
16. A fabric depresser consisting of toothed and tricked discs of a gauge
corresponding to the needle cylinder having flanged or serrated wire or blade
sinkers such as P, Px Figures 8, 8ª for pressing the knitted loops over the
tricks of the needle bed, into the hooks of the cylinder thereby dispensing with
weights.
17. In circular or circular reversible types of knitting machines a detachable
or movable auxilliary thread guide m, or guides pivoted, hinged, swivelled or other-
wise mounted for the purpose of withdrawing them (the guides) from the needles,
and out of action, when converting a multiple feeder machine into a one feeder
machine, and the auxilliary thread holes and guides o o, for conducting the coloured
or additional threads.
18. In circular reversible knitting machines in combination with the adjustable
guides, and "designer," the adjustable sliding piece O, Figure 19 Sheet 1, and
adjustable upthrow cam, switch lever O2 and spring 03 and cam track S on
the cylinder Figure 21 employed for lifting the ordinary clearing cam or up throw
cam in and out of action with the needle feet for the purpose of stopping off or
discontinuing the design on half the circle such as in the back of the ankle and
underneath the foot separately or in combination for the purpose set forth.
19. In circular knitting machines the application of diagonally split stitch cams
arranged as shown in Figure 20 Sheet 1 as and for the purpose described.
20. In knitting machines of the character described the application and employ-
ment of fulcrummed, pivoted, swivelled or sliding pickers, quils, coverers, or the
like loop or needle transferring and shifting devices, and needle controllers carried
in a geared or otherwise rotating wheel or wheels, such as shown in Figures 6, 7, 8, 8ª
or modifications thereof for the purpose of transferring the loops from needle to

page_text: 'needle, or the needles as in Figure 9, 94 98 from bed to bed, or cam to cam, or
position to position for the purpose of altering the pattern of fabric, substantially
.as set forth.
21. A revolving or rotating toothed or geared wheel such as A Figure 1. or C
Figure 2 A Figure 14. C* Figure 16 C** Figure 10 with or without sliding or
fulcrummed "pickers" or shifters, transferrers, coverers, or controllers to influence
or control the end wise movement of sliding knitting needles, or to deflect the same
laterally to be employed in the process of knitting any kind of fabric or knitted article
of wearing apparel, the said revolving or rotating "designer" being geared in any
suitable manner to the needle bed of any kind or type of "sliding needle" knitting
machines. In some cases having a divisional change or differential motion and a
transverse change or in lieu thereof one or more auxilliary differential wheels
therewith, and the application of such "designer" or change gearing to, for and
in the manufacture and formation of every description of knitted loops, or looped
knitted fabric to increase the utility of sliding needle knitting machines. And the
berein described processes or their equivalents of applying and using such appliances
for the purposes substantially as herein described and set forth.
Dated this 5th day of October 1893.
WILLIAM BESTWICK MAXFIELD,
Registered Patent Agent,
19, Bowling Green Street, Leicester, Applicant's Agent.