IMPROVEMENTS IN MANU- FACTURING HATS, CAPS, AND BONNETS
Year: 1857

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Simon Martin Allaire, of Paris, in the Empire of
France, Manufacturer, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN MANU-
FACTURING HATS, CAPS, AND BONNETS."
Sealed the 17th July 1857, and dated the 25th March 1857.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Simon Martin Allaire at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
25th March 1857.
I, SIMON MARTIN ALLAIRE, of Paris, in the Empire of France, Manufacturer,
do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
MANUFACTURING HATS, CAPS, AND BONNETS," to be as follows:-
My Invention relates to the manufacture of shapes, frames, foundations, or
framework for hats, caps, and other articles for covering the head. I make
these shapes or foundations of stocking stitch web, in cotton or other material.
These shapes or forms are first formed of a plain knitted web in a single
piece; secondly, of a cylindrical knitted web; and, thirdly, of cylindrical webs
formed of three pieces, the back part, the body, and the edges. First, a piece
of knitted web is cut the size of the foundation or shape or framework required;
it is prepared with gum lac, and is then moulded on a metal mould or block,
and the edges are joined together by pasting or gluing; the web being elastic
in all ways it readily takes all the forms wished to be given to it. Secondly,
the whole shape or framework may be made in a cylindrical form of knitted
web, which is prepared with gum lac, and moulded on a metal block or mould.

page_text: Thirdly, I form a body and back part of a gauze or other light material cut on
the cross; they are prepared with gum lac, and joined together on the metallic
mould or block, a back part and body of cylindrical form of knitted cotton
prepared with gum lac are then pasted upon it. The edges are previously
prepared with two pieces of calico and two of gauze or net, pasted together
and prepared with gum lac; they are united to the body of the framework or
shape by pasting. These edges as well as the other parts can be strengthened
by pasting calico, paper, cardboard, felt, strips of cotton, or other suitable
material.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Simon Martin Allaire in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
24th September 1857.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, SIMON
MARTIN ALLAIRE, of Paris, in the Empire of France, Manufacturer, send
greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-fifth day of March, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-seven, in the twentieth year of Her reign,
did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the
said Simon Martin Allaire, Her special licence that I, the said Simon
Martin Allaire, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others
as I, the said Simon Martin Allaire, my executors, administrators, and
assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time
and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and
lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom
of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an In-
vention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN MANUFACTURING HATS, CAPS, AND BONNETS,"
upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said Simon Martin Allaire,
my executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or
their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and
ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same
was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent
Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the
said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Simon Martin Allaire, do hereby
declare the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to

page_text: be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement, reference being had to the Sheet of Drawings hereunto
annexed, and to the letters and figures marked thereon (that is to say):-
My Invention relates to the manufacture of shapes or bodies for all kinds of
hats, caps, or other coverings for the head.
I make these shapes or bodies of knitted web cotton tissue, or other elastic
and strong weaveable fibrous material, to which I give the form of hat or other
shapes by preparing it with gum lac dissolved, and inoulding it on metal blocks
or forms. The hat shapes so made possess the following advantages over
ordinary felt, cloth, or other hat bodies: First, facility of assuming the
various shapes of hats, owing to the elasticity of the web in every direction;
secondly, lightness; thirdly, solidity; fourthly, economy; fifthly, they are
easily rendered waterproof.
These new hat shapes are made of knitted web material, and may be
woven, first, in the form of a flat surface, and in a single piece; secondly,
cylindrical, and of a single piece; thirdly, cylindrical, and formed of three
picces joined together, as herein-after described.
I will describe first the knitted web hat shape, woven flat, and in a single
piece.
Figure 1 represents a loop web cotton tissue knitted in the flat, cut out and
suitably developed for making the shape or body of a hat of the ordinary form ;:
it has consequently the several dimensions required for the hat. Figure 2
represents the hat shape mounted, and as obtained from the flat knitted cotton
web, Fig. 1, by steeping it in a solution of gum lac dissolved in any of its
numerous solvents; after steeping, it is moulded in suitable metallic moulds,
and, lastly, stove dried. The crown, body or side, and brim of the hat shape
are united in the same line by gumming the two selvages of the tissue. This
junction may be made in a straight or slanting direction. The several mani-
pulations which give the contour or shape to the different parts of the hat
body are performed with metallic moulds slightly heated. Other coverings
for the head are made in the same manner by analogous operations.
The brims, shades, or peaks of hats and caps, which wear out more than the.
other parts, are strengthened by a stronger web; tlius, from line a, b, Fig. 1, to
the lower part I knit the web with three threads; or a sheet of carded cotton
may be gummed on each side, and prepared with gum lac, as herein-after
described.
A sheet of wadding is taken and placed between two metallic webs, and
coated on both sides with pasty solutions of gum lac dissolved in its solvents.
This sheet of wadding is thinned, gumned, and felted, and becomes, so to

page_text: speak, light pasteboard. Two annular surfaces are cut out of this sheet,
which are gummed above and below the knitted web forming the brim; lastly,
the brim can be stiffened by any other means by gumming on all or on parts
of its surface bands of cloth prepared and stiffened with gum lac. The other
operations to which they may be submitted (either to make them impermeable,
or to strengthen the crown by a double layer of cloth prepared with gum lac,
or of wadding also prepared with gum lac, or of pasteboard, or felt, &c., or to
double the brim and make it impervious to perspiration,) are well understood.
in the ordinary hat manufacture; I will therefore dispense with any description
thereof.
Secondly, hat shape or body woven cylindrical in a single piece.
Figure 3 represents the body of an ordinary shaped hat, the knitted web of
the sides or body and brim of which has been woven cylindrical in a single
piece. The crown or tip is formed of four triangular pieces; each of their
circular basis are joined to the frame with the corresponding part of the side
or body. These four triangular pieces are joined together by being woven or
knitted by the machine, or by hand, or by gumming.
The preparation of this hat shape or body is the same, that is to say, the
knitted web is coated with a solution of gum lac, dissolved in its solvents, and
moulded on metal lasts and stove dried; and, lastly, the proper shape is given
to its different parts by the aid of blocks and successive pressures and heat.
Thirdly, the hat body, woven cylindrical and formed of three separate
pieces.
First, the crown; secondly, the sides or body; thirdly, the brim.
I have represented the side or body together at Fig. 4, and at Fig. 5 the
brim cut out ready to receive the shape. Each of these three pieces are
prepared as I am about to describe.
I cut (slanting or on t'he cross) out of a piece of fine light elastic material,
such as gauze, first, a foundation of any size whatever, furnished with an
edge nearly half an inch wide, intended to form a collar; secondly, a slanting
side or body of the same size. I prepare the two parts of the gauze with
gum lac dissolved. I place them on a metal last, applying each of them in
its proper position, and taking care that the collar or edge of the crown is
suitably folded down on the exterior of the side or body. The union of the
two borders or edges of the side may be done obliquely or vertically. I
prefer it vertically. The side or body and the crown having been prepared as
last herein described, and remaining on the metallic last, I take my circular
woven knitted web, steep it in the gum lac preparation and apply this wetted
web on the gauze. This knitted web, thus applied, forms the crown and side

page_text: of a single piece. Being thus gummed the hat body is passed to the stove.
When it is dry it is turned inside out on, its metal last, when the knitted
web made of a single piece, which formed the exterior, will become the
interior, and the folded down edge or collar of the gauze foundation is in this
way gummed and inserted between the knitted web and the band of gauze.
It is on this band of gauze that the plush or shag of silk will be applied.
As it is smoother than the knitted web it will gum the silk better and will
give it more gloss. But this turning inside out,, which furnishes me with an
easy means of placing and recognizing my Patent manufacture mark on the
web of knitted tissue (which constitutes the principal part of my Invention),
is not indispensable. The knitted cotton web is suitable to receive the
hatters' silken tissue.
The brims are formed thus:-I take two strong cloths prepared with gum
lac dissolved, and gum, gauze or light cloth on both sides of it; I extend
the whole on a stretching frame and dry it. As soon as it is dry I cut out
of it an annular surface, representing the brim and edge, which is joined on
to the interior curve. A heated metallic mould serves to form this annular
brim of the desired shape, and with an edge standing up nearly half an inch
wide, which edge is intended to join the brim to the sides or body.
In order to effect this junction, I remove from the little turned-up edge
of the brim the two cloths and the lower gauze, so as only to leave the
upper gauze; I then introduce the body (the lower edge having been cut)
into the opening of the brim. I. fix the edge or collar of this latter to the
same by the aid of gum lac or other substance.
In order to render the hat nearly impermeable even without preparation, I
gum on the exterior of this combination of substances a little band of cloth
(Fig. 7) prepared with gum lac, which at the same time consolidates the
joined parts.
I can also strengthen the brims, shades, or peaks by gauze or cloth prepared
with gum lac.
Figure 6 represents the view of a hat body or shape manufactured according
to this third process, which, I may observe, is very superior to the two others.
In the Drawing I have represented some of the various shapes which the
same tissues manufactured according to my Invention may be caused to
assume by the same means.
Figure 8 represents a shape for a conductor's or postillion's varnished cap;
Fig. 9, shape for a child's hat; Fig. 10, shape for a street orderly's varnished
hat; Figs. 11 and 12, shape for a jockey's cap. In one Figure the various
segments of the knitted web are seen as conforming to the shape, and in the

page_text: other the body of the cap is of a single piece. Figs. 13 and 14, shape for a
soldier's shako; Fig. 15, shape for an officer's shako; Figs. 17, 18, and 19,
shapes for hunting caps and hats; Figs. 21 and 22, shapes for ordinary hats.
Having described the nature of my Invention, and the manner of performing
the same, I declare that what I claim as my Invention, intended to be secured
by the herein-before in part recited Letters Patent, is,-
First, the manufacture and preparation of the shapes for hats, or caps, or
other coverings for the head, of knitted web of cotton or other suitable fibrous
material woven flat and of one single piece.
Secondly, the manufacture and preparation of shapes for hats, or caps, or
other coverings for the head, of knitted web of cotton or other suitable fibrous
material woven of a cylindrical form.
Thirdly, the manufacture and preparation of shapes for bats, caps, and other
coverings for the head, of knitted web of cotton or other suitable fibrous
material woven cylindrical, circular; and of three pieces, all as herein-before
described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Simon Martin Allaire, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, this Nineteenth day of September, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-seven.
S. M. ALLAIRE.
(L.S.)