Year: 1885

page_text: I, EDWARD COPE of Lenton Firs Nottingham, Lace Manufacturer do hereby
declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention has for its object improvements in the manufacture of lace fabrics
in twist lace machines.
The machines which I employ are similar to those now in use for the production
of certain fabrics; they have jacks or intercepters, a bar carrying warp threads and
two bars carrying spool threads, so that as a rule in each pillar of the fabric there
is a bobbin thread, a warp thread and two spool threads one from each spool bar.
With such an arrangement I work as follows:-one of the spool bars carries
threads which for the sake of distinction I will call the "thick" threads; it takes
them over several pillars and but for the jacks or intercepters these threads with
the pillars would produce a completely opaque fabric.
The jacks or intercepters however entering amongst the threads prevent this and
confine the thick threads to their pillars except in the parts of the pattern in which
it is desired that the thick threads should appear.
The other spool bar carries two half sets of threads which for distinction I will
call the "fine" threads and the "colored" threads. These threads are arranged
alternately, in one pillar there is a fine thread and in the next pillar there is a
colored thread and each twists on its own pillar.
The jacks or intercepters are supported by a jack bar which is shogged and by
the aid of the jacks either the fine threads or the colored threads can be carried
from their own pillars to the adjacent pillars on either side; each of these threads
then works over three pillars.
When the fine threads are thus treated the pillars are connected by fine work
or fabric and where this is going on the colored threads simply twist on their
pillars. On the other hand when the colored threads are so carried from pillar to
pillar by the operation of the spool bar and jack bar colored work or fabric is
produced and where this is going on the fine threads only twist on their pillars and
are scarcely seen in the fabric.
The thick threads are confined by the jacks or intercepters to their own pillars
when either fine or colored work is being produced.

page_text: When making curtains in the manner described I prefer to work from side to
side of the curtain so that when the curtain is hung the pillars are horizontal and
usually the colored threads are not all of the same color but colors are grouped as
the designer may think best,
The spool bar which I have spoken of as carrying thick threads may also be
provided with two half sets of threads and these of different colors; the threads
are placed alternately and worked so as to pass over two wails. The jacks allow
the threads of one color to weave whilst intercepting those of the other color.
Thus it will be seen that I can when I so desire produce a fabric with four
colors.
For the purpose of operating jacks or intercepters by the Jacquard when I desire
that the jacks should enter various distances amongst the threads I make use of the
ordinary Jacquard and I couple several of its hooks with the same jack by means
of intermediate links two or more of which engage with a coupling to which the
string leading to the jack is attached.
The intermediate links are made to different lengths and with long eyes so that
one lifts the coupling and pulls the string the full distance which the Jacquard
hook moves whilst the next loses a part of the movement and so the string is
pulled a shorter distance whilst a third intermediate link may lose still more of
the movement of the Jacquard hook and import a still shorter movement to the
string.
Thus with the ordinary Jacquard the jack can be caused to assume several
different positions as may be required.
Dated this 2nd day of Nawambon 199K
CARPMAEL & Co.,
Agents for the Applicant,

page_text: Lace Machines.
I EDWARD COPE of Lenton Firs, Nottingham, Lace Manufacturer do hereby
declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be
performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:
This invention has for its object improvements in the manufacture of lace fabrics
in twist lace machines.
The machines which I employ are similar to those now in use for the production
of curtain fabrics; they have jacks or intercepters, a bar carrying warp threads
and two bars carrying spool threads, so that as a rule in each pillar of the fabrio
there is a bobbin thread, a warp thread and two spool threads one from each
spool bar.
With such an arrangement I work as follows:-one of the spool bars carries
threads which for the sake of distinction I will call the "thick" threads; it takes
them over several pillars and but for the jacks or intercepters these threads with
the pillars would produce a completely opaque fabric.
The jacks or intercepters however entering amongst the threads prevent this and
confine the thick threads to their pillars except in the parts of the pattern in which
it is desired that the thick threads should appear.
The other spool bar carries two half sets of threads which for distinction I will
call the "fine" threads and the "colored" threads. These threads are arranged
alternately in one pillar there is a fine thread and in the next pillar there is a
colored thread and each twists on its own pillar.
The jacks or intercepters are supported by a jack bar which is shogged and by
the aid of the jacks either the fine threads or the colored threads can be carried
from their own pillars to the adjacent pillars on either side; each of these threads
then works over three pillars.
When the fine threads are thus treated the pillars are connected by fine work or
fabric and where this is going on the colored threads simply twist on their pillars.
On the other hand when the colored threads are so carried from pillar to pillar by
the operation of the spool bar and jack bar colored work or fabric is produced and
where this is going on the fine threads only twist on their pillars and are scarcely
seen in the fabric
The thick threads are confined by the jacks or intercepters to their own pillars
when either fine or colored work is being produced.
When making curtains in the manner described I prefer to work from side to
side of the curtain so that when the curtain is hung the pillars are horizontal
and usually the colored threads are not all of the same color but colors are
grouped as the designer may think best.
The spool bar which I have spoken of as carrying thick threads may also be
provided with two half sets of threads and these of different colors; the threads
are placed alternately and worked so as to pass over two wails. The jacks allow
the threads of one color to weave whilst intercepting those of the other color.
+

page_text: Thus it will be seen that I can when I so desire produce a fabric with four colors.
In order that my said invention may be fully understood and readily carried
into effect I will proceed to describe more in detail the manner in which I prefer
to conduct the manufacture.
I will suppose in the first instance that the object is to produce a fabric in which
on the same line of the pattern some parts are filled in and rendered opaque by the
crossing of thick threads from pillar to pillar whilst other parts are filled in by
colored threads passing from pillar to pillar; two different colors being separately
employed in this manner.
The machinery which I employ is in the main similar to that at present in use
for the manufacture of curtain fabrics and the like.
The machine is provided with spring jacks controlled by jacquard and next to
the stems of the jacks at the back of the machine is a bar which carries the thick
or filling threads; these threads are supplied from spools and there is one thread to
each pillar. This bar traverses over three gates; it rises one gate then stands for
a time and again rises two gates; similarly it falls first one gate and then, after
a pause, it again falls two gates. In front of the back spool bar is a middle spool
bar; it carries two half sets of threads and these threads are of different colors, so
that the thread in one pillar, is of one color and that in the next pillar is of the
other color, and so alternately. This middle spool bar receives a motion of rising
one gate and falling one gate, and the threads which this bar carries, when not
otherwise actuated, twist simply each on its pillar.. The third or front bar is
supplied with threads from a warp beam, one thread to each pillar. The warp bar
also rises one gate and falls one gate, and the warp threads are thus caused to
twist in their rollers.
Each spring jack is controlled by two needles of an ordinary jacquard; by means
of one of these the jack at suitable times is held back and kept entirely away from
the threads, whilst the jacks which are not so restrained advance and enter amongst
the threads. The other jacquard needle controls the same jack in such manner as
to allow it to advance together with the unrestrained jacks so far as to enter
between the threads of the back spool bar but not so far as to interfere with the
colored threads carried by the middle spool bar. The jacks which are not restrained
by the jacquard when they advance penetrate between the threads of both of the
spool bars but do not penetrate amongst the threads of the warp bar. The jacks
whilst out are selected by the jacquard and this takes place both for the front
motion and the back motion; after each selection they advance amongst the
threads, and then shog, rising when the carriages are in the back comb and
falling when they are in the front comb.
I couple the ordinary jacquard hooks with the jacks by means of intermediate
lengths of wire, one connected with each of the jacquard hooks, and these two
links engage with a coupling loop to which the string leading to the jack is
attached. The links are made to different lengths and with long eyes so arranged
that one hook of the jacquard lifts the coupling and pulls the string attached to
the jack the full distance which the jacquard hook moves whilst the other loses
a part of the movement, and so the string is pulled a shorter distance.
Figure 1 of the annexed drawings is a diagram in which the row of dots
marked a. a. represents the thick threads in the back spool bar; the row of dots
marked b. b. represents the coloured threads in the middle spool bar. These threads,
as already stated, are of two colours and are arranged alternately; and the row of
dots marked c. c. represents warp threads. The thick lines marked d. d. d. represent
the heads of the jacks; their position as here shown is that in which they remain
when they are held back away from the threads by the Jacquard. So long as the
jacks continue in this position whilst the machine is at work opaque fabric is
produced, the threads a. a. each traversing three gates and engaging with the pillar
to the right hand and to the pillar to the left hand of that to which it belongs
The threads b. b. of the middle spool bar and the threads c. c. of the warp bar
simply twist in their pillars.

page_text: Figure 2 shows a similar diagram differing only from Figure 1 in that the jacks
are shown in the position which they occupy when the jacquard allows them to
enter amongst the threads a, a of the back spool bar but restrains them from
advancing amongst the threads b. b. of the middle spool bar. So long as the
machine works under these conditions all the threads in the neighbourhood of these
jacks simply twist on their pillar, the jacks then acting simply to prevent the
traverse of the threads a, a.
Figure 3 is another similar diagram but showing the jacks in a third position
every alternate jack being allowed to advance to its full extent so as to enter
amongst the threads of the middle spool bar b whilst the remaining jacks are
simultaneously allowed to advance amongst the threads in the back spool bar a but
no further.
When the machine works with the jacks in this position the threads of one colour
traverse or are each taken by the jacks from pillar to pillar whilst at the same
time the jacks operate to confine the threads of the back spool bar a each to its
own pillar.
It should here be mentioned that when it is desired to work continuously with
one colour it is necessary on each selection to reverse the position of the jacks, that
is to say, assuming that the selection indicated by Figure 3 is suitable when the
carriages are about to pass from back to front, it will require to be reversed at the
next selection before the carriages pass from front to back; each jack which is now
advanced to the full extent will then be restrained so as not to enter amongst the
threads b whilst the jacks shown in the diagram to be held back or restrained, will
then be allowed to advance the full distance.
Figure 4 is a diagram (not to scale) in illustration of the forms and relative
arrangements of the cams by which motion is imparted to the back spool bar, the
middle spool bar and the front or warp bar respectively-Thus the line marked e. e.
corresponds to the cam which operates the back spool bar. The line marked f. f.
corresponds to the cam which operates the middle spool bar, and the line marked
g. g. corresponds to the cam which operates the front or warp bar.
Tracing the line e. e. from left to right we find first a rise of one gate corresponding
to a rise of the bar a, which brings the threads which the bar carries home each
to its own pillar then after an interval or straight portion in the cam comes a rise
of two gates (which causes each thick thread, where not otherwise controlled to
cross over its own pillars and the adjacent pillar) then after another straight
portion or pause the cam surface descends one gate, another pause occurs and then
it descends two gates to its lowest level where it continues to the point marked e,
on the right hand side. which in the cam is identical of course, to the point
similarly marked on the left hand side, the cam being circular and rotating
continuously In the diagrams the circular forms of the cams are represented by
straight lines for the sake of simplicity and more easy comparison the one with the
other. The cam operating the middle spool bar and indicated by the line fhas only
one rise of one gate and a similar fall. The cam which operates the warp threads
indicated by the line g. g is similar to the cam indicated by the line f. f. only
differently timed; the rise of the warp bar taking place by preference when the
jacks receive a similar movement.
Whilst the rise and the fall of the middle warp bar takes place immediately
before the jacks are shogged the cam which shogs the jacks it has not been thought
necessary to illustrate; it produces a movement of the jacks one gate each way.
Again another cam operates to put the jacks in and to withdraw them at suitable
times; it moves all the jacks simultaneously excepting those that are held back by
the strings of the jacquard.
In the diagram Figure 4 the dotted lines h. h. drawn across the lines c. f. and g
indicate approximately the times at which the jacks go in; or in other words, the
parts of the cams e. f and g which are operating as the jacks enter. The dotted
line i. i. similarly indicates approximately the time at which the jacks having
entered rise one gate; and the dotted line k. k. indicates approximately the time at

page_text: which the jacks having entered fall one gate. The dotted lines l. l. indicate similarly
times when the jacks are out. The parts of the cams which are in operation whilst
the carriages are passing from back to front and again from front to back are also
indicated on the drawing-these portions are straight and produce no movement
of the bars.
From the preceding description the action in producing the fabric will be readily
understood The threads carried by the back bar a. a. when not interfered with
traverse three gates and render the fabric opaque, each thread passing from its own
pillar to a pillar on either side of it. But so long as the jacks go in at every
motion the threads a. a. are controlled entirely by the jacks, that is to say, they
are moved one gate each way and twist each on its own pillar. The threads b b
of the middle spool bar when not interfered with twist each on its own pillar, but
when influenced by the jacks, after being moved one gate by the bar the thread is
taken by the jack and moved another gate in the same direction; consequently the
thread is made to pass from pillar to pillar. Each of these threads can thus be
made to traverse over three pillars, its own pillar and the neighbouring pillar on.
either side. The warp threads simply twist.
As already stated, in place of providing thick threads in the back spool bar
I can thread it in the same way as I do the middle spool bar with two half sets of
coloured threads arranged alternately and these colours may be different from those
of the threads which the middle spool bar carries. It will then be seen that
whenever the jacks are inserted in the manner indicated by the diagram Figure 5,
one of the colors in the back spool bar will be made use of and will traverse from
its pillar to the next adjacent pillar, whilst the threads of different colors in the
other pillars will be confined each to its own pillar on which it will then simply
twist.
I can if I so desire allow the jacks to enter amongst the warp threads c c as
indicated by Figure when they are not restrained by the jacquard and then
1 employ three books of the jacquard to control each jack. The jacks when in
the position shewn in this figure carry each alternate warp thread to the neigh-
bouring pillar causing two pillars to coalesce and combination net to be produced.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is
1. The method or process herein described for the manufacture of fabrics in
twist lace machines consisting in the employment of jacks or intercepters working
in conjunction with a back spool bar, a middle spool bar and a front or warp bar,
in such manner that the jacks or intercepters entering amongst the threads of the
back spool bar confine these threads each to its pillar and prevent it passing from
pillar to pillar whilst the same jacks or intercepters when passing further forward
and entering amongst the threads of the middle spool bar serve to carry these
threads either way from one pillar to another whereas otherwise they would remain
and twist each with its pillar.
2. The method or process herein described for the manufacture of fabrics in
twist lace machines consisting in the employment of jacks or intercepters working
in conjunction with a back spool bar carrying thick or filling threads, a middle
spool bar carrying threads of two colours or qualities arranged alternately and a
front or warp bar; in such manner that where the jacks or intercepters do not
enter amongst the threads of the back spool bar the whole of these threads are
employed in thickening or giving opacity to the fabric and where the jacks or
intercepters do enter there these threads are confined to their pillars; and in such
manner also that where alternate jacks or intercepters enter amongst the threads
of the middle spool bar one of the colors or qualities which the said spool bar
carries is brought into use and made to cross from pillar to pillar and where this
alternate arrangement of the jacks or intercepters is reversed then in like manner
the other color or quality is brought into use.

page_text: 3. The method or process herein described for the manufacture of fabrics in
twist lace machines consisting in the employment of jacks or intercepters working
in conjunction with a back spool bar carrying threads of two colors or qualities
arranged alternately, a middle spool bar likewise carrying threads of other two
qualities or colors arranged alternately, and a front or warp bar; in such manner
that where alternate jacks or intercepters enter amongst the threads of the back
spool bar one or other of the colors or qualities which the back spool bar carries is
allowed to cross from pillar to pillar whilst the remaining color or quality is
confined to its pillar; and in such manner also that where alternate jacks or
intercepters project through the threads of the back spool bar and enter amongst
the threads of the middle spool bar then one or other of the colors or qualities
which this bar carries is brought into use whilst the remaining color or quality is
confined to its pillar.
4. The method or process substantially as described for the manufacture of
fabrics in twist lace machines.
5. The improved lace fabric herein described having to each pillar a bobbin or
carriage thread, a warp thread and two spool threads, one a thick or filling thread
and the other a colored thread, the colors being different in neighbouring pillars;
and having also in the same line of the work and produced by the same threads
parts which are rendered thick or opaque by the traverse from pillar to pillar of
all the thick or filling threads in such part-other parts in which whilst the threads
of one color are confined to their pillars, those of the other color traverse over
three pillars and again other similar parts but in which the parts played by the
color are reversed.
6. The improved lace fabric herein described having to each pillar a bobbin or
carriage thread; a warp thread and two spool threads of colors or qualities differing
from each other and from the spool threads in the adjacent pillars; and having in
the same line of the work and produced by the same threads parts which are filled
with each of the colors or qualities separately by the traverse from pillar to pillar
of the spool thread of this color or quality whilst the spool threads of the three
other colors or qualities in the same part of the work remain with their pillars.
7.-The improved lace fabrics herein described.