Year: 1887

page_text: Date of Application, 29th Nov., 188
Specification Accepted, 13th Jan., 1888
1, WILHELM WEEGMANN, of Elberfeld, in the German Empire, Dyer do hereby
eclare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed
to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
Plush fabrics, such as those to which this invention has reference are composed of
two or more different kinds of threads; principally wool, silk and cotton are used,
either two of them combined, or all three."
The figuring is generally formed of the one kind of thread, and the ground of the
other kind.
According to the present invention the plush fabric is made of undyed yarns, and
is then dyed in the piece in specially prepared dye baths in such manner, that the
different kinds of yarns each receive a different color, or a different tint.
Such plush fabrics have heretofore only been made of dyed yarns and not dyed
in the piece.
Undyed plush fabrics of different kinds of yarns have therefore either not been
made at all hitherto, or at any rate they have not been made to be dyed in the piece.
The process of dyeing is based on a choice of coloring matters, of which one set
will only dye the one kind of yarns, while the other set will only dye the other kind.
With these dyes one or more baths are prepared, according to the nature of the
yarns employed, in which the fabric is dyed in the piece.
I have prepared several descriptions of multicolored plush fabrics according to the
above described principle, and I will proceed to describe the process I have used for
certain combinations of yarns while taking into consideration the behaviour of the
several kinds of yarn with reference to the dyes employed.
I will first describe the dyeing of a plush fabric made of woollen and silk
plush in two colors. These plush fabrics are made, say, with a figuring of
woollen plush upon a ground of silk plush, or of a figuring of silk plush upon
a ground of woollen plush, or with a figuring of both kinds mixed. I have

page_text: found that, in addition to those dyes which color silk and woollen fabrics both
in the same way, and which it has been hitherto believed could alone be used
for both kinds of yarns, because both are of animal origin, there exists a series
of dyes which will only color wool, and not, or only to a small extent, silk, and
that there also exists a second series of dyes that are taken up by silk and not,
or only to a small extent, by wool.
To those coloring matters that only dye wool and not, or only to a small
extent, silk, belong the indigo preparations, and certain anilin colors, in particular
those of the azo-group. Silk, on the other hand, is mainly only dyed by those
anilin colors, which exist in trade more particularly as cotton dyes, while wool
remains almost entirely untouched by these coloring matters.
These last named dyes have, as far as is known, not hitherto been used for
dyeing silk.
According to my present invention dyes of each of the above kinds are either
made into two separate baths in which the fabric is successively treated, or the
two kinds of dyes may be mixed in a single bath, in which the fabric is dyed
in the above described manner by a single operation.
The preparation of the dye baths does not differ materially in either case. The
dye or dyes are dissolved in acidulated water, and the fabric is dyed at the
boiling temperature. As it is more convenient to place the dyes together in a
single bath, I, by preference, offect the dyeing of woollen and silk plush fabrics
in a single bath, but they can be just as well dyed in two baths, of which one
contains the dye for the wool and the other the dye for the silk.
It is not possible to name all the different dyes which act in the above described
manner upon wool and silk, and which are therefore suited for the new process
for dyeing fabrics of wool and silk plush. In order however to determine these
dyes it is only necessary to examine the action of the different dyestuffs of
commerce in a bath. The use of the dyes always takes place in the same above
described manner. I will however, by way of example, describe the improved
process in connection with some specific colors.
A bath in which the wool plush of the fabric is dyed blue, while the silk
plush is dyed yellow is prepared of the following dyes.
Saffranin.
Aniline yellow (prepared for cotton dyeing), and
Indigo solution (prepared for cotton (lyeing).
These dyes are all brought together in water containing two per cent of sulphuric
acid, and in the bath so obtained the plush fabric is dyed in the usual manner at
boiling temperature. The indigo and the saffronin (belonging to the azo-group) dye
the woollen plush, and the aniline yellow and indigo solution, prepared for cotton
dyeing, dye the silk plush.
Two separate baths might be used, the one having indigo and saffronin for
dyeing the woollen plush, the other having anilin yellow and indigo solution,
both prepared for cotton dyeing, in which silk plush would be dyed. Such a
division of the dyes into two baths does not require any difference in the dyeing
process and can be effected in all cases.
For a dye bath in which the woollen plush is dyed Bordeaux red, the silk
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page_text: the woollen plush is dyed dark blue, and the silk plush peacock blue. The pikrin
acid and the light green dye both wool and silk equally, but the indigo carmine
dyes the wool alone, so that the latter is colored by all three dyes, and therefore
obtains a different color from that of the silk.
The dyer has it in his power, by the choice of the quantities of each dyestuff,
as also by subsequently adding dyes during the dyeing process, which act upon the
one or the other part of the fabric, or by proportioning the duration of the process,
to produce various tints or shades, or to alter these during the process.
After dyeing, the fabric is washed as usual, in order to remove the superfluous
color.
In the fabric above described, both wool and silk yarns are woven so as to produce
a plush surface; but the one or the other kind of yarn can be woven entirely or
partially smooth, so that a figuring of, say, wool is produced upon a smooth silk
ground, or vice versa.
Plush fabrics that contain cotton with wool or silk or in addition to wool and silk
are dyed in two baths, having regard to the necessity of mordanting the cotton for
taking up the dyes.
The cotton is mordanted after dyeing in the first bath, and if it has taken up some
color, it is bleached in a weak chloride bath, after which it is dyed in the second bath
containing the before mentioned dye stuffs that are prepared for cotton dyeing, and
lastly the fabric is washed.
The first bath is acidulated with two per cent sulphuric acid and is used at boiling
heat.
In the second bath the dyeing is effected at about 40° Cent. or 104° Fabr.
I will now more particularly describe the process as carried out with fabrics having
cotton combined with wool or silk, or both.
1. Plush fabrics of wool and coiton plush.
The first dye bath contains the dye stuffs for the wool. For this may be used the
dye stuffs which dye wool generally, as they do not dye the unmordanted cotton.
The second dve bath contains those of the above mentioned dye stuffs prepared for
cotton dyeing that only dye cotton and not wool.
As an example of this process may be given the following.
The first dye bath for wool-plush contains:
Indigo extract
Aniline vellow

page_text: In this bath the cotton plush is dyed at a temperature of about 40° Cent. or
104° Fahr., and lastly it is washed in water.
2. Plush fabrics of silk and cotton.
The silk is dyed in the first bath, acidulated as above described; as dye stuffs for
this are used those which are generally suited for dyeing silk, that is to say, either
those which dye wool and silk equally, or dyestuff prepared for cotton dyeing. In
the second bath for the cotton are used only the last named dyes. But as these also
dye the silk again in the second bath, the silk obtains a mixed tint.
The process of dyeing is the same as already described, the cotton being if necessary
bleacheil-after the first dyeing, after which it is mordanted, washed, and dyed in the
second bath, and lastly washed again.
The plush fabric of silk and cotton may also have a flat visible ground of either
silk or cotton. The process remains the same as above.
3. Plush fabrics of wool, silk and cotton plush.
Two baths are again used; the first bath is prepared in the same manner and with
the same colors as above described for wool and silk fabrics.
In this bath the wool and the silk each receive their particular color. The fabric is
then washed, and if necessary bleached, then mordanted as described and then the
cotton is dyed in the second bath. The second bath contains the dyestuffs prepared
for cotton dyeing as above described.
As these again dye the already dyed silk, the latter receives a mixed tint.
The following serves as an example of the process of dyeing for plush fabrics of
wool, silk and cotton.
The first bath for dyeing the wool and silk in two colors consists of:
Acid fuchsine
Aniline yellow for dyeing the wool.
Aniline yellow (prepared for cotton dyeing) for dyeing silk.
These dyestuffs are dissolved in water containing two per cent of sulphuric acid as
above described, and the fabric is dyed at boiling temperature, if necessary bleached,
then mordanted in a bath of tannin and antimony salt, after which the cotton is dyed
in a second bath containing aniline blue (prepared for cotton dyeing) at a temperature
of about 40° Cent. or 104° Fahr., and the fabric is then washed.
The result will be a brown coloring of the wool plush, a greyish green color for
the silk plush, and a light blue for the cotton plush.
With this kind of fabric a part of the yarns may appear as visible flat ground, the
same dyeing process being used.
Lastly, in all the above described cases, the fabric may either have a cut or an
uncut or looped pile.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I claim is :-
1. An improved manufacture of multicolored plush fabric containing both wool
and silk plush of undyed yarns, the fabric being dyed in the piece in one or in two
baths, the dyestuffs for which are so chosen that one part thereof only dye the
wool, or mainly so, such as the indigo dyes and certain aniline dyes, in particular
of the azo group, while the other part thereof only dye the silk, such as a number
of aniline dyes that are prepared for cotton dyeing, and indigo dyes prepared
for cotton dyeing.
2. An improved manufacture of multicolored plush fabrics containing both
wool and cotton, plush, of undyed yarns, the fabric being dyed in the piece in
two baths, the first of which serves to dye the wool and is prepared of dyes
that dye wool generally, while the second bath is made with dyes prepared for
cotton dyeing, and serves to dye the cotton after having been mordanted.
3. An improved manufacture of multicolored plush fabric containing both silk
and cotton plush, of undyed yarns, the fabric being dyed in the piece in two

page_text: baths, the first of which, for dyeing the silk, contains dyes that are generally
used for silk dyeing, whether these be such that dye both silk and wool, or such
aniline or indigo dyes as are prepared for cotton dyeing, while the second bath,
for dyeing the cotton after mordanting, is made only of dyes that are prepared
for cotton dyeing.
4. An improved manufacture of multicolored plush fabric of wool, silk and
cotton plush, of undyed yarns, the fabric being dyed in the piece in two baths,
of which the first contains those dyes combined which dye wool and silk differently
as set forth in the first claim, while for the second bath, dyes prepared for cotton
dycing are used, the cotton being mordanted before being treated therein.
5. An improved manufacture of multicolored plush fabrics of wool, silk, and
cotton or any two of these, and dyed in the piece according to either of the
methods set forth in the preceding claims, part of the yarns of which are formed
into a visible flat ground.
Dated this 20th day of November 1887