IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FIGURED OR ORNAMENTAL BOBBIN NET OR TWIST LACE, OR OTHER FABRIC
Year: 1837

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, WILLIAM
CROFTS, of New Bradford, in the County of Nottingham, Machine Maker, send
greeting.
WHEREAS His late most Excellent Majesty King William the Fourth,
by His Letters Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date
at Westminster, the Eighteenth day of April, in the seventh year of His reign,
did, for Himself, His heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the said
William Crofts, His especial licence, full power, sole privilege and authority,
that I, the said William Crofts, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or
such others as I, the said William Crofts, my executors, administrators, or
assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and
at all times during the term of years therein expressed, should and lawfully
might make, use, exercise, and vend, within England, Wales, and the Town
of Berwick-upon-Tweed, my Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE
OF FIGURED OR ORNAMENTAL BOBBIN NET OR TWIST LACE, OR OTHER FABRIC;"
in which said Letters Patent is contained a proviso that I, the said William
Crofts, shall cause a particular description of the nature of my said Invention,
and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be enrolled in His said
Majesty's High Court of Chancery within six calendar months next and
immediately after the date of the said in part recited-Letters Patent, as in
and by the same, reference being thereunto had, will more fully and at large
appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said
William Crofts, do hereby declare the nature of my said Invention, and the
manner in which the same is to be performed, are fully described and ascer-

page_text: enereof, reference being had to the
Drawings hereunto annexed, and to the figures and letters marked thercon,
that is to say-
My Invention relates,-
First, to a mode of making spots by extra threads on that description of
fabric called bobbin net, made in bobbin net machines, wherein the bobbin
threads traverse diagonally across from selvage to selvage.
Secondly, to a mode of making or producing of spots by means of extra
threads on that description of lace called straight down nets, made in bobbin
net machines, wherein neither the warp threads nor the bobbin threads tra-
verse from selvage to selvage; and,
Thirdly, my Invention relates to à mode of making a description of orna-
mented bobbin net or twist lace, or other fabric, similar to that made by hand
on the pillow, and known as Mecklin lace, and wherein the groundwork of
the fabric consists partly of twisted and partly of platted sides to the meshes
or. holes. And my improved mode of making the groundwork of such lace
consists in employing guide bars and guides and bobbins of bobbin net
machinery, with suitable movements communicated thereto, in order to produce
lace or fabric having similar groundwork, that is, having certain of the sides
of the holes or meshes formed of platted threads.
Having thus stated the objects of my Invention, I will procced to describe
the best means I am acquainted with for performing the same.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS MARKED A.
Figure 1 represents so much of a double tier single locker machine which,
together with the detailed parts and cut of wheels, .will enable me to explain
the first part of my Invention, which consists of a mode of producing spots by
such description of bobbin net machinery as traverse the bobbins in order
to produce bobbin net or twist lace, such spots being produced by extra threads,
which are laid into the bobbin net or lace in such manner as to produce good
and bold spots, owing to there being suitable additional movements to parts of
bobbin net machinery, which give a greater accumulation of extra threads
into spots than would be accomplished by the ordinary number of movements
which the particular machine (to which my improvements may be applied) would
require if simply making bobbin net. The arrangement I prefer for obtaining
such additional movements will readily be understood by an examination of the..
Drawings A, aided by a. description of working a course of the wheels; and
although the arrangement is applied to the class of machines above mentioned,
a workman acquainted with other classes of bobbin net machinery which work

page_text: by traversing the bobbins, will readily adapt my Invention to other machines
which differ in the mode of actuating the carriages, but substantially the same
when the evolutions of the threads are considered. And in order to apply my
improvements, all that is necessary to be considered will be the application of
extra spotting bar or bars, with guides or such like instruments for actuating
the extra threads for spotting, and giving to the points such additional move-
ments as to take up and accumulate thread more often than would be the case
if ordinary bobbin net were making, or that spots were making by the ordinary
movements of the main lace wheels, but with extra threads. And further, the
lace wheels should be so cut that the carriages may pass through and through
the threads an additional number of times without producing twistings around
their warp threads, in order to weave in such additional accumulations of the
extra spotting threads.
I will now describe the working of a course which will readily be under-
stood by a workman, observing the cut of wheels shewn in the Drawings A;
and in so doing I will suppose the machine to have been at work and stopped
in the position following:-The bolts of the different bars having racking
wheels at the right-hand end of the machine stand at No. 72, just previous to
racking No. 1, and the whole of the two rows of carriages in the back
combs. The front comb bar stands on its extreme position to the right hand,
and is capable of moving one space to the left hand. The front main guide"
bar stands on its extreme position to the right hand, and is capable of moving
one space to the left hand. The back main guide bar now stands on its
middle position, and is capable of moving one space to the right and one space
to the left hand. The spotting bar (having a guide at each place where a
spot is to be produced) stands on its extreme position to the left hand, and is
capable of moving two spaces to the right hand. By communicating motion
to the winch handle, No. 1 is racked. The front comb bar nioves one space
to the left hand, the front main guide bar moves one space to the left hand,
the back main guide bar moves one space to the left hand to allow for the
correct entrance of the front points and then returns to its previous position;
the back driving bar now drives the front row of carriages into the front
combs, and No. 2 is racked. The front comb bar moves one space to the
right hand, the front main guide bar moves one space to the right hand,
the spotting bar moves one space to the right hand, the back row of
carriages comès into the front combs, and No. 3 is racked. The front comb
bar moves one space to the left hand, the spotting bar moves one space to
the left hand, the back row of carriages goes into the back combs, and
No. 4 is racked. The front comb bar moves one space to the right hand, the

page_text: back main guide bar moves one space to the right hand, the spotting bar
moves one space to the right hand, the front row of carriages goes into the
back combs, and No. 5 is racked. The front main guide bar moves one
space to the left hand to allow for the correct entrance of the front points and
then returns to its original position, the back main guide bar moves half a
space to the left hand to allow for the proper entrance of the front points
and then moves another half space to the left hand, the spotting bar moves
one space to the left hand, the front row of carriages comes into the front
combs, and No. 6 is racked. The front main guide bar moves one space to
the left hand, the back row of carriages comes into the front combs, and
No. 7 is racked. The front main guide bar moves one space to the right hand,
the back row of carriages goes into the back combs, and No. 8 is racked. The
back main guide bar moves one space to the right hand, the front row of
carriages goes into the back combs, and No. 9 is racked. The front main
guide bar moves one space to the left hand, the back main guide bar moves
one space to the left hand, the front row of carriages comes into the front
combs, and No 10 is racked. The front main guide bar moves one space to
the right hand, the spotting bar moves one space to, the right hand, the
back row of carriages comes into the front combs, and No. 11 is racked.
The back main guide bar moves one space to the right hand, the spotting
bar moves one space to the left hand,
back combs, and No. 12 is racked.
space to the left hand, the spotting bar
the front row of carriages goes into the back combs, and No. 13 is racked.
The front comb bar moves one space to the left hand, the front main guide
bar moves one space to the left hand, the back again guides moves one space
to the left hand to allow for the correct entrance of the front points and then
return to their former position, the spotting bar moves one space to the left
hand, the front row of carriages comes into the front combs, and No. 14 is
racked. The front comb bar moves one space to the right hand, the front
main guide bar moves one space to the right hand, the spotting bar moves
one space to the right hand, the back row of carriages comes into the front
combs, and No. 15 is racked. The front comb bar moves one space to the
left hand, the spotting bar moves one space to the left hand, the back row
of carriages goes into the back combs, and No. 16 is racked. The front
comb bar moves one space to the right hand, the back main guide bar moves
one space to the right hand, the spotting bar moves one space to the right
hand, the front row of carriages goes into the back combs, and No. 17 is
racked. The front main guide bar moves one space to the left hand, to allow
the back row of carriages goes into the
The back main guide bar moves one
moves one space to the right hand,

page_text: The back row of carriages goes
The front row of carriages goes
for the proper entrance of the front points, and then returns to its previous
position. The back main guide bar moves half a space to the left hand pre-
vious to the entering of the front points, and then moves another half space to
the left hand; the spotting bar moves one space to the left-hand. (Note, the
front comb bar remains on this run of its wheel until the racking of No. 49,
which is to allow of the weaving in the spots produced by the accumulation
of extra threads; but this may be varied, depending on the size of the spots
required. The front main guide bar remains on this run of its wheel until
the racking of No. 42, and the back main guide bar remains on this run of its
wheel until the racking of No. 44.) The front row of carriages comes into
the front combs, and No. 18 is racked. The back row of carriages come
into the front combs, and No. 19 is racked.
into the back combs, and No. 20 is racked.
into the back combs, and No. 21 is racked. The spotting bar moves one'
space to the right hand previous to the entering of the front points, and then
moves another space to the right hand; the front row of carriages comes into
the front conibs, and No. 22 is racked. The spotting bar moves one space to
the left hand, the back row of carriages comes into the front combs, and
No. 23 is racked. The spotting bar moves one space to the left hand, the
back row of carriages goes into the back combs, and No. 24 is racked.
Similar motions of the spotting bar to those which took place during the
rackings No. 20 to the racking of No. 24 will be repeated, from the racking
of No. 24 to the racking of No. 28, and from the racking of No. 28 to the
racking of No. 32, from the racking of No. 32 to the racking of No. 36,
and from the racking of No. 36 to the racking of No. 40; and during these
periods the carriages will go through their motions as on the rackings from
No. 20 to 24. The front row of carriages now goes into the back combs,
and No. 41 is racked. The spotting bar moves one space to the right hand
to allow for the correct entrance of the front points, and then moves another'
space to the right hand; the front row of carriages comes into the front
combs, and No. 42 is racked. The front main guide bar moves one space to
the left hand, the spotting bar moves one space to the left hand, the back
row of carriages comes into the front combs, and No. 43 is racked. The
front main guide bar moves one space to the right hand, the spotting bar
moves one space to the left hand, the back row of carriages goes into the
back combs, and No. 44 is racked. The back main guide bar moves one
space to the right hand, the spotting bar moves one space to the right hand,
the front row of carriages goes into the back combs, and No. 45 is racked.
The front main guide bar moves one space to the left hand, the back main

page_text: guide bar moves one space to the left hand, the spotting bar moves one space
to the left hand, the front row of carriages comes into the front combs,
and No. 46 is racked. The front main guide bar moves one space to the
right hand, the back row of carriages comes into the front combs, and No. 47
is racked. The back main guide bar moves one space to the right hand, the
back row of carriages goes into the back combs, and No. 48 is racked.
The back main guides move one space to the left hand, the spotting bar
moves one space to the right hand, the front row of carriages goes into the
back combs, and No. 49 is racked. The front comb bar moves one space
to the left hand, the front main guide bar moves one space to the left
hand; the back main guide bar moves one space to the left hand previous
to the entering of the front points, and then returns to its former. position;
the spotting bar moves one space to the left-hand. (Note, similar motions
of the front comb bar, the front main guide bar, and the back main guide
bar, to those which took plack from the racking of No. 1 to the racking of
No. 12, will be repeated from the racking of No. 49 to the racking of
No. 60, and from the racking of No. 61 to the racking of No. 72, and the
carriages will continue their ordinary swinging motions as from the racking of
No. 1 to the racking of No. 12.) The front row of carriages comes into the
front combs, and No. 50 is racked. The spotting bar moves one space to the
right hand, the back row of carriages comes into the front combs, and No. 51
is racked. The spotting bar moves one to the left hand, the back row of
carriages goes into the back combs, and No. 52 is racked. The spotting bar
moves one space to the right hand, the front row of carriages goes into the
back combs, and No. 53 is racked. The spotting bar moves one space to
the left hand. Note, the spotting bar continues on this run of its wheel until
the racking of No. 62, at which period the carriages will be locked in their
middle position. The spotting bar now moves one space to the right hand;
and note, the spotting bar will go through similar motions from the racking
of No. 62 to the racking of No. 72, to those which took place from the
racking of No. 50 to the racking of No. 60. The whole of the parts will
now have regained the position which they occupied at the commencement
of the description of the working a course. It should be stated that the
front points have descended on the racking of No. 72. They enter the warp
threads on racking No. 1 as the carriages come forward, and the points get
up just before racking No. 2, and such is the case every time the whole of
the carriages are in the back combs and come forward into the front. The
front point bar wheel shows the shoggings of the front points in order to their
correctly entering of the warp threads and the front and back rows of

page_text: bobbin threads. The back points draw out on No. 2, and descend in order
to penetrate the warp threads, and get up on racking No. 11. The cut of
wheels shows the shoggings of the back points in order to their correctly
entering the threads, and this motion is repeated every time the back rows of
carriages are in the front combs, the back points only sustaining the lace
during the time the front points are withdrawn, the back points not taking
up the work as it is made.
I will now proceed to describe the second part of my Invention, which
relates to the making of straight down net with spots produced by extra
threads. This mode of applying extra threads to this description of net or lace
has advantages over the mode of employing accumulations of the bobbin or
warp threads of lace or net in place of using extra threads; one advantage is
that by using extra threads a thicker thread may be employed than that which
is used for the warp and bobbin threads, which is an important advantage in
some classes of nets. I would here state, that I am aware that William
Samuel Henson did, by means of certain revolving guides, make spots in
straight down not or lace, with extra threads, according to an Invention for
which a Patent was granted to him, bearing date at Westminster, the First
day of October, One thousand eight hundred and thirty-five; but the pecu-
liarity of my mode is, that I employ ordinary guides, or such like instruments,
affixed on a guide bar or bars, together with a suitable cut of wheels for
actuating such bar, for laying in extra spotting threads to straight down nets
or lace, that is to say, in nets or lace wherein neither bobbin nor warp threads
travers from selvage to selvage. The Drawings B shew so much of a double
tier single locker machine as will enable me readily to describe the nature and
mode of carrying out this part of my Invention, and the cut of wheels are
arranged for making the description of straight down net called square net, that
is, a net or lace having four sides; the threads constituting such sides twist
round each other, similar to that shewn at Figure 2 in Drawing C, so far as the
groundwork of the lace is concerned, but variations may be made in the
description of straiglit down net made for the ground, and have my improved
mode of spotting applied thereto. And it may at once be desirable to state that
although I have shewn the Invention as being performed by a double tier
single locker machine, I do not confine myself thereto, as variations may be
made, and other classes of machinery differing in name and in many respects
in the mode of working some of the parts, but substantially the same in tlie
use of guides and bobbins, for producing the necessary evolutions to the threads.
In describing this part of the Invention, it will only be necessary to state,
that supposing the spots are to be made from end to end in the same line,

page_text: and the spot to be over two warp threads, the workman will remove one
guide from the front and one guide from the back main guide bars, and the
warp threads which would have passed through those guides which are
removed are to be passed through guides on two extra guide bars, the guides
of which are so set as to stand opposite those places where the guides are
removed from the front and back main guide bars, and the cuts of wheels for
such extra guide bars is such that the bars are caused to move simultaneously
with their main guide bars, and the guides of the front main guide bar and of
the front extra guide bar at the time the groundwork of the net is being
formed between spot and spot, are actuated as one unbroken row of guides,
they in fact being actuated by the same wheel, and it is only at one movement
when making spots that the front extra guide bar is independent of the front
guide bar, and such is the case with respect to the back main guide bar and
the back extra guide bar, and the extra front and back guide bar wheels are
only called into action when spots are being formed, as will be traced by the
cut of wheels, and as will be hereafter explained; and it will be seen that the
object of having such extra guide bars at back and front is to obtain to those
threads which are worked thereby motions independent of the general row of
main guide threads at the time of making spots; and in order to make the
description of net before mentioned, the warp and the bobbin threads are to be
kept at an equal degree of tension. There is also an extra guide bar, having
one guide opposite each place where a spot is to be made, and the spotting
threads supplied thereto are to be wound on a separate beam or beams, and
such spotting guide bar has a suitably cut wheel for giving motion thereto.
The names of the various parts being written on the Drawings, and as
the working of this class of machinery is well understood by lace makers, it
will not be necessary to enter into any explanation of the various movements,
other than to state that the arrangement of machinery shown in such, that
the spotting guide bar is locked out of motion when the other parts are
making plain net. The section of the machine shewn in Drawing B repre-
sents the parts in the position immediately before racking No. 37 of the
wheels on the upright shaft at the right-hand end of the machine. At this
time the parts are to be in the following positions: the front and back rows of
carriages are in the back combs; the front main bar guide is to the right hand,
nearly as far as it can go in that direction, and is capable of racking two
spaces to the left hand from its present position. The back main guide bar is
as far as it can go towards the right hand, and is capable of moving.two spaces
to the left hand, and the front and back extra guides range with their main
guides, and produce two equally spaced or unbroken rows of main guides.

page_text: The spotting guide bar has been unlocked at the racking of No. 36, and is free
to be acted on by its wheel, and the bar, just before racking No. 37, is as far as
it can go to the right hand, and is capable of being racked one space to the
left hand, and the spotting guides should now stand directly before the guides
on the front extra guide bar rack No. 37. The front main guide bar and its
extra guide bar go one space to the left hand, the back main guide bar and
its extra guide bar go one space to the left hand, the spotting bar goes
one space to the left hand, the front row of carriages comes into the front
combs, and No. 38 is racked. The front main guide bar and its extra guide
bar go one space to the left hand, the spotting bar goes one space to the
right hand, the back row of carriages comes into the front combs and
racks No. 39. The front main guide bar and its extra guide bar go one
space to the right hand, the spotting bar goes one space to the left
hand, the back row of carriages goes into the back combs, and No. 40 is
racked. The front main guide bar and its extra guide bar go one space to
the right hand, the spotting bar goes one space to the right hand, the front
row of carriages goes into the back combs and racks No. 1. The front main
guide bar and its extra guide bar go one space to the left hand, the spotting
bar goes one space to the left hand, the front carriages comes into the front
combs, and No. 2 is racked. The back main guide bar and its extra guide bar
go one space to the left hand, the spotting bar goes one space to the
right hand, the back row of carriages comes into the front combs, and No. 3
is racked. The front main guide bar and the back main guide bar and its
extra guide bar each goes one to the right hand, the spotting bar goes one
to the left hand, the wheel of the front extra guide bar by its lever moves its
stop or bolt, and prevents the front extra guide bar moving, the back row
of carriages goes into the back combs, and No. 4 is racked. The front main
guide bar goes one space to the left hand, the spotting guide bar goes one
space to the right hand and the bolt of the front extra guide bar is moved by
its wheel, the front row of carriages goes into the back combs, and No. 5 is
racked. The back main guide bar goes one space to the left hand, the
spotting bar goes one space to the left hand, the back extra guide bar is by its
wheel and bolt retained stationary, the front row of carriages comes into the
front combs, and No. 6 is racked. The back main guide bar goes one space
to the right hand, the spotting guide bar goes one space to the right hand,
and the bolt of the back extra guide bar again lets the back main and extra
guides go together, the back row of carriages comes into the front combs, and
No. 7 is racked. The spotting bar goes one space to the left hand, the back
row of carriages goes into the back combs, and No. 8 is racked. The

page_text: front main guide bar and its extra guide bar go one space to the right
hand, the spotting bar goes one space to the right hand, the front row of
carriages goes into the back conibs, and No. 9 is racked. The front main
guide bar and its extra guide bar go one space to the left hand, the spotting
bar goes one to the left hand; from this position the racking goes on, are the
carriages are, by the continued working of the machine, passed through and
through the warp threads, and the spotting guide bar is only acted on by its
wheel, the front and back main guide bars and their extra guide bars
remaining stationary till No. 30 is racked, when the back guide bar and its
extra guide bar go one space to the left hand the spotting bar goes one space
to the right hand, the back row of carriages comes into the front combs, and
No. 31 is racked. The back main guide bar and its extra guide bar go one
space to the right hand, the spotting bar goes one space to the left hand, the
back row of carriages goes into the back combs, and No. 32 is racked. The
spotting bar goes one space to the right hand, the front row of carriages goes
into the back combs, and No. 33 is racked. The spotting bar goes one space
to the left hand, the front row of carriages comes into the front combs, and
No. 84 is racked. The back main guide bar and its extra guide bar go
one space to the left hand, the spotting bar goes one space to the right
hand, the back row of carriages comes into the front combs and rack
No. 85. The back main guide bar and its extra main guide bar go
one space to the right hand, the spotting bar remains stationary, it being
the only instance where the spotting bar does not go to the left hand when
all the carriages are in the front combs, the back-row of carriages goes into
the back combs, and No. 36 is racked. The front main guide bar and its
extra guide bar go one space to the right hand, the back main guide bar
and its extra guide bar go one space to the right hand, the spotting bar
remains, the front row of carriages goes into the back combs, and the various
parts are in the same position as above described at the commencement of
working a course of one revolution of the wheels on the upright shaft at the
right-hand end of the machine. On the upright shaft at the right-hand end
of the machine there is affixed a wheel, which controls the working of the
axle or spindle which carries the extra wheels. The revolution of the
upright shaft by the above-mentioned wheel causes the ratchet of twenty-four
teeth on the horizontal axis or spindle of the extra wheels to be driven six
teeth for each revolution of the upright shaft or spindle at the right-hand end
of the machine; and it should be stated, that at the time just before racking
No. 37, as above described, the extra wheels will be ready to be racked;
No. 2 of their wheels and No. 2 will be racked at the racking of No. 37 of

page_text: the wheels on the upright shaft or spindle; at the racking of No. 3 of the
guide bar wheels No. 3 of the extra wheels will be racked; at the racking of
No. 4 of the guide bar wheels No. 4 of the extra wheels will be racked; at
the racking of No. 5 of the guide bar wheels No. 5 of the extra wheels
is racked; at the racking of No. 6 of the guide bar wheels No. 6 of the
extra wheels is racked; at the racking of No. 36 of the guide bar wheels
No. 7 of the extra wheels is racked; and at the second racking of No. 37 of
the guide bar wheels No. 8 of the extra wheels will be racked, which will
retain the spotting bar out of action by its wheel and bolt, and the spotting
bar will not again be at liberty till the racking of No. 1 of the extra
wheels. By setting the machine correctly to produce the above movement,
and seeing the cut of the wheels are correct by the Drawings, and observing
the description, above given of the working of a course of the guide bar
wheels, a workman will not fail readily to set up his machine correctly. The
taking-up of the points is similar to that of the Drawings A, the point bar
wheels being shown in the Drawing B. I would remark, that although I
have here shown the spots to be produced by forty movements it will be
evident that that number may be reduced or enlarged, and by having more
than one thread to each spot, two or more may be used, by which fewer move-
ments will produce larger spots. The description above given relates only to
rows of spots in the same lines, but in order to make the spots in rows what
are called chequered, there will be required two sets of two guides removed
from the main guides and extra guides and bars to fill them up in such
manner that one pair of back and front guides can be performing indepen-
dently of the other pair of extra guides. The spotting bar may be moved to
make spots opposite each place were guides are removed from the main
guides. According to the arrangement above described, the spotting threads
are so worked as to be cut off from spot to spot by hand.
I will now proceed to describe the third part of my Invention, which relates
to produce the groundwork of lace having sides of platted threads similar to
that description of fabric called Mecklin lace. And in order to give the best
description I am capable of doing for performing this part of my Invention, I
have, in Drawings marked C, shown a suitable arrangement of double tier
bobbin net machinery for giving to the threads of the warp and bobbins proper
movements for producing a continuous platting or interlocking or weaving of
the threads to produce certain of the sides of the meshes or holes of the fabric
produced, such arrangement of machinery being shewn as working on the
system of what is called double locker machinery, which I consider the best
construction of lace machinery for performing my Invention; at the same time

page_text: I would remark, that I do not confine myself thereto, as variations may be
made and other classes of machinery be suitably arranged for performing my
Invention, provided the working of the threads to produce a succession of
platting movements sufficient to form the sides of the meshes of lace be
retained. And it will be seen that in addition to making the body or ground-
work of such fabric as above stated, the machine is suitably arranged for
making ornamental surfaces or places in the groundwork of the fabric, by
producing a description of interweaving or laying of the threads to obtain
what is known in the lace manufacture as "finings," or opaque clothwork.
The construction of the double bladed locker machinery being well known,
and as the working of the threads depends on the cut of wheels, in order to
give the requisite movements to the guide or warp threads, it will only be
necessary to explain the working of a course of one revolution of the wheels
in order to explain the manner in which the threads are actuated to produce a
fabric or lace, such as is shewn in Figure 1, wherein the pillars or sides a, a,
of the holes or meshes are platted, whilst the other four sides b, b, are twisted
similar to bobbin net or twist lace. And I would here observe, that in order
to point out more clearly the nature and extent of this part of my Invention,
I have at Figure 2 shown a specimen of a description of lace called square
lace or net, which has been before made, and it is termed square lace
or net from the circumstance of each of the meshes or holes being of
four equal sides, such sides being made by simple twisting of the threads
round each other; and the tops and bottoms or angles of each mesh or hole
are formed by an interweaving, or it may be called a commencement of
platting of the threads as will be readily seen on examining Figure 2, and it
will be further seen that the descriptions of lace or other fabric, shown at
Figures 1 and 2, are what are called straight-down nets or lace.
I will now proceed to describe the working of a course of one revolution
of the wheels. In doing so, I will suppose the machine to be in the position
just before racking No. 1. Both rows of carriages are in the back combs;
the front main guide bar stands in its middle position, and is capable of
moving one space to the right and one space to the left hand. The back
main guide bar stands in its middle position, and is capable of moving one
space to the right and one space to the left hand. The bender bar, which
is applied for the purpose of obtaining fining or
opaque clothwork,
stands on its extreme position to the left hand and is capable of rack-
ing two spaces to the right hand. The front point bar has been with-
drawn out of the threads, and has descended ready to penetrate the warp
threads. Note, it will be observed, that in some instances the racking

page_text: of the different bars takes place a little before and sometimes a little
after the different racking lines which are marked on the racking wheels.
This difference in the time of racking is to allow of the proper entering of the
front points between the threads. Motion being communicated by the winch
handles to the machine, the wheels will rack No. 1, the back main guide bar
is moved one space to the left hand, the bender bar is moved one space to the
right hand, the front points move a little to the right hand before entering the
warp tbreads, and are then moved a little more towards the right hand; the
continued motion of the machine actuating the swing jacks (which carry the
driving bars) drives the front row of carriages into the front combs, and as
they do so the front points enter the front row of bobbin threads, and then
move about half a space to the left hand (to allow for the inclined position of
the back bobbin threads), which they then enter, and the points rise up just
after the racking of No. 2. The carriages are now locked in their middle
position, and No. 2 is racked. The back main guide bar moves one space to
the right hand, the bender bar moves one space to the right hand, the back
row of carriages now comes into the front combs, and as they do so the back
points are withdrawn from the net, and descend just below the front point3
ready to enter the threads (on racking No. 4). Both rows of carriages are
now locked in the front combs, and No. 3 is racked. The front main gui:le
bar moves one space to the right hand, the bender bar moves one space to the
left hand, the back row of carriages goes into the back combs, and No. 4 is
racked. The back main guide bar moves one space to the left hand, the
front row of carriages now goes into the back combs, during which period the
front points withdraw from the net and descend realy to penetrate the warp
threads, both rows of carriages are locked in the back combs, and No. 5 is
racked. The front main guide bar moves a little to the right hand to allow
the front points to enter the warp threads, after which it moves rather
more than one space to the left hand; the bender bar moves about half a
space to the left hand to allow the front points to enter those warp
threads (which at certain movements are inserted in the benders during the
time of weaving the opaque clothwork); it then moves about half a space
further to the left hand, thus completing one space to the left. The front
points move about one space to the left hand after entering the warp threads,
and, as the carriages come forward, the points enter the front bobbin threads,
and move about one space to the right hand, and enter the back bobbin
threads, after which they move about one space to the left hand and rise up.
The front row of carriages is now locked in the front combs, and the back row
of carriages is locked in the back combs, and No. 6 is racked. The front

page_text: main guide bar moves one space to the right hand, the bender bar moves one
space to the right hand, the back row of carriages comes into the front combs,
and as they do so the back points withdraw from the net and move about half
a space to the left hand (and it will be seen by the wheel that they enter the
threads just previous to the racking of No. 8, and from such period the back
point bar remains on the run of its wheel until the racking of No. 35), botli
rows of carriages are locked in the front combs, and No. 7 is racked. The
front points move a little to the left hand to place them in a proper position
for the correct entering of the back points, the back main guide bar moves
one space to the right hand, the back row of carriages goes into the back
combs, and No. 8 is racked. The front main guide bar moves one space to
the left hand, and the back main guide bar moves one space to the left hand,
the front row of carriages goes into the back combs, and No. 9 is racked:
The back main guide bar moves nearly two spaces to the right hand (to allow
the front points to enter) and then moves nearly one space to the left hand.
The front points, previous to entering the warp threads, move a little to the
right hand, then move a little to the left hand, and enter the bobbin threads,
after which they move a little to the right hand before entering the back
bobbin threads, and, having entered, they move nearly a space to the left
hand, and rise up. (Note, in order to shorten the description, it will be
desirable to observe, that the motions of the front point bar which take
place on No. 9 are repeated on Nos. 13, 17, 21, 25, and 29). The front
and back row of carriages are locked in their middle position, and No. 10
is racked. The front main guide bar moves one space to the right hand,
the bender bar moves one space to the right hand, the back row of car-
riages comes into the front combs, and No. 11 is racked. The front main
guide bar moves one space to the left hand, the bender bar moves one space
to the left hand, the back row of carriages goes into the back combs, and
No. 12 is racked. The front main guide bar moves one space to the right
hand; the back main guide bar moves one space to the left hand, the front row
of carriages goes into the back combs, and rack No. 13. Similar motions of
the guide bars and bender bar take place as on racking No. 5, the front row
of carriages comes into the front combs, and No. 14 is racked. The front
main guide bar moves one space to the right hand, the bender bar moves one
space to the right hand, the back row of carriages comes into the front combs,
and No. 15 is racked. The back main guide bar moves one space to the
right hand, the back row of carriages goes into the back combs, and No. 16 is
racked. The front and back main guide bars move one space to the left
hand, the front row of carriages goes into the back combs, and No. 17 is

page_text: racked.
The guide bars and bender bar take the same positions as on racking
No. 9, the front row of carriages comes into the front combs, and No. 18 is
racked. The front main guide bar moves one space to the right hand, the
bender bar moves one space to the right hand, the back row of carriages
comes into the front combs, and No. 19 is racked. The front main guide bar
moves one space to the left hand, the bender bar moves one space to the left
hand, the back row of carriages goes into the back combs, and No. 20 is
racked. The front main guide bar moves one space to the right hand, the
back main guide bar moves one space to the left band, the front row of
carriages goes into into the back combs, and No. 21 is racked. The motions
of the main guide bars and the bender bar take place as on racking. No. 5,
the front row of carriages comes into the front combs, and No. 22 is racked.
The front main guide bar and the bender bar move one space to the right
hand, the back row of carriages comes into the front combs, and No. 23 is
racked. The back main guide bar moves one space to the right hand, the back
row of carriages goes into the back combs, and No. 24 is racked. The front
and back main guide bars each moves one space to the left hand, the front row
of carriages goes into the back combs, and No. 25 is racked. The guide bars
and the bender bar move the same as on racking No. 9, the front row of
carriages comes into the front combs, and No. 26 is racked. The front main
guide bar moves one space to the right hand, the bender bar moves one space
to the right hand, the back row of carriages comes into the front combs, and
No. 27 is racked. The front main guide bar and the bender bars each moves
one space to the left hand, the back row of carriages goes into the back combs,
and No. 28 is racked. The back main guide bar moves one space to the left
hand, the front row of carriages goes into the back combs, and No. 29 is
racked. The back main guide bar moves one space to the right hand, the
front row of carriages comes into the front combs, and No. 30 is racked.
The front main guide bar moves one space to the right hand, the bender bar
moves one space to the left hand, the back row of carriages comes into the front
combs, and No. 31 is racked. The front main guide bar moves one space to
the left hand, the bender bar moves one space to the right band, the back
row of carriages goes into the back combs, and No. 32 is racked. The
front main guide bar and the bender bar move each one space to the left
hand, the front row of carriages goes into the back combs, and No. 33
is racked. The front main guide bar moves one space to the right hand,
the back main guide bar moves a little to the right hand previous to
the entering of the front points, and then it moves a little to the left hand,
the bender bar moves one space to the right hand, the front points move
nearly a space to the right hand previously to entering the warp threads,.

page_text: they then move a little more to the right hand before entering the front
bobbin threads, they then move a little to the left hand before entering
the back bobbin threads, the front row of carriages is in the front combs,
and back row of carriages is in the back combs, and No. 34 is racked.
The back main guide bar moves one space to the right hand, the bender
bar moves one space to the left hand, the back row of carriages comes
into the front combs, and No. 35 is racked. The back point bar moves a little
to the right hand and continues on this run of its wheel until the racking of
No. 7 in the next revolution of the wheels, the back main guide bars moves
one space to the left hand, the bender bar moves one space to the right
band, the back row of carriages goes into the back combs, and No. 36 is
racked. The bender bar moves one space to the left hand, the front row
of carriages goes into the back combs, and No. 37 is racked. The front main
guide bar moves a little to the right hand before the entering of the front
points, after which it returns a like distance. The back main guide bar moves
one space to the left hand, the bender bar moves a little to the right hand
previously to the entering of the front points and then moves a little more to
the right hand (making together one space to the right hand). The front
points before entering the warp threads move a little to the right hand, they
then move a little more to the right hand before entering the front bobbin
threads, after which they move about half a space to the left hand, and then
enter the back bobbin threads. (Note, it may here be stated that like
motions of the front point bar to those last described take place on racking
Nos. 41, 45, 49, and 53.) The front row of carriages comes into the front
combs, and No. 38 is racked. The back main guide bar moves one space to the
right hand, the back row of carriages comes into the front combs, and No. 39
is racked. The front main guide bar moves one space to the right hand, the
back row of carriages goes into the back combs, and No. 40 is racked. The
front main guide bar moves two spaces to the left hand, the bender bar moves
one space to the left hand, the front row of carriages goes into the back combs,
and No. 41 is racked. The front main guide bar moves one space to the right
hand, the back main guide bar moves a little to the right hand previous to
the entering of the front points and afterwards returns to its former position,
the front row of carriages comes into the front combs, and No. 42 is racked.
The back main guide bar moves one space to the right hand, the back row of
carriages comes into the front combs, and No. 43 is racked. The back main
guide bar moves one space to the left hand, the bender bar moves one space
to the right hand, the back row of carriages goes into the back combs, and
No. 44 is racked. The bender bar moves one space to the left hand, the
front row of carriages goes into the back combs, and No. 45 is racked.
.

page_text: The front main guide bar moves a little to the right hand before the entering
of the front points and afterwards returns to its former position, the back
main guide bar moves one space to the left hand, the bender bar moves
half a space to the right hand before the front points enter it, then moves
another half space to the right hand, the front row of carriages comes into
the front combs, and No. 46 is racked. The back main, guide bar moves one
space to the right hand, the back row of carriages comes into the front combs,
and No. 47 is racked. The front main guide bar moves one space to the
right hand, the back row of carriages goes into the back, combs, and No. 48
is racked. The front main guide bar moves two spaces to the left hand, the
bender bar moves one space to the left hand, the front row of carriages goes
into the back combs, and 'No. 49 is racked. The front main guide bar moves
one space to the right hand, the back main guide bar moyes a little to the
right hand before the entering of the front points and then returns to its
previous position, the front row of carriages comes into the front combs, and
No. 50 is racked. The back main guide bar moves one space to the right
hand, the back row of carriages comes into the front combs, and No. 51 is
racked. The back main: guide bar, moves one space, to the. left. band, the
bender bar moves one space to the right hand, the back row of carriages goes
into the back combs, and No: 52 is racked. The bender bar moves one space
to the left hand, the front row of carriages goes into, the back combs, and
No. 53 is racked. The front main 'guide bar moves a little to the right hand
to allow for the correct entering of the front points and afterwards returns
to its former position, the back main, guide bar moves one space to the
left hand, the bender bar moves one space to the right hand, the front row
of carriages comes into the front combs, and No. 54 is racked. The back
main guide bar moves one space to the right hand, the back row of carriages
comes into the front combs, and No. 55 is racked... The front main guide bar
moves one space to the right hand, the back row of carriages goes into the
back combs, and No. 56 is racked. The front main guide bar moves. one
space to the left hand, the bender bar moves one space to the left hand, the
front row of carriages goes into the back combs, which will place the whole of
the parts in the position described at the commencement of this description.
And I would remark that, in thus explaining the movement of the parts,
I have omitted to notice the manner in which the finings or opaque cloth-
work is made, which is effected by causing the bender on the bar to enter
amongst the warp threads by the wheel for that purpose. And it may now be
shortly stated that the benders are inserted amongst the warp threads on
racking No. 9 of the wheels on the horizontal shaft, which number corresponds

page_text: with No. 33 of the main guide bar wheels, and they will continue inserted in
the warp threads until the racking of No. 51 of the wheels on the horizontal
shaft, during which period a piece of clothwork will be made equal to the
lengths of three complete meshes of the lace; consequently, the guide bar
wheels will have made three revolutions from the place at which the benders
were inserted; and there are four benders opposite those places where cloth-
work is to be made, but it will be evident that the size and direction of such
cloth work may be varied according to the taste of the workman.
Having thus described the nature of my Invention, and the best means I
am acquainted with for performing the three parts thereof, I would have it
understood that I lay no claim to any of the parts employed, nor do I confine
myself to the using of only such combinations of the parts, as variations may
be made. And although I have only used the word "threads" generally,
I mean it to apply to cotton, silk, or other material suitable for the purpose
and depending on, the fabric to be produced.
What I claim as my Invention is, first, the mode of making or producing
of spots on bobbin net or twist lace (when the bobbin threads traverse from
selvage to selvage) by means of extra threads, when such extra threads so
operate by aid of machinery as to be laid in by more movements than would
be sufficient to make the plain bobbin net or twist lace, whether such extra
motions be added to the take-up or driving motions, or both, which, though it
comparatively retards the process of making the bobbin net, enables me to
accumulate a larger quantity of thread to each spot than when extra threads
are laid in (for the purpose of spotting) at only the same speed or by the
same number of movements, and consequently not loosing speed in the making
of the plain bobbin net, as above described.
Secondly, I claim the mode. of making or producing in bobbin net machines
spots in that description of bobbin net or twist lace called straight down net,
when worked into the net or lace by means of a spotting bar and spotting
wheel, with suitable guides or such like instruments for laying in the extra
spotting threads, as above described.
Thirdly, I claim the combining of suitable parts of bobbin net machinery
in such manner as to continue the platting of the threads in order to produce
certain of the sides of each mesh or hole, as above described.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Crofts, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Eighteenth day of October, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and thirty-seven.
WILLIAM (L.S.) CROFTS.

page_text: AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the Eighteenth day of October, in
the first year of the reign of Her Majesty Queen Victoria, the said William
Crofts came before our said Lady the Queen in Her Chancery, and acknow-
ledged the Instrument aforesaid, and all and every thing therein contained
and specified, in form above written. And also the Instrument aforesaid was
stamped according to the tenor of the Statute made in the fifty-fifth year of
the reign of His late Majesty King George the Third.
Inrolled the Eighteenth day of October, One thousand eight hundred and
thirty-seven.