IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES OR OTHER COVERINGS FOR THE FEET
Year: 1858

page_text: the County of Middlesex. and of 166. Buchanan Strect, in the City of
Glasgow, North Britain. Gentleman, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS
IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES OR OTHER COVERINGS FOR THE
FEET." A communication.
Sealed the 24th June 1859, and dated the 28th December 1858.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said John Henry Johnson
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
28th December 1858.
JOHN HENRY JOHNSON, of 47. Lincoln's Inn Fields. in the County of
Middlesex, and of 166. Buchanan Street. in the City of Glasgow, North
Britain, Gentleman, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for
IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES OF OTHER COVERINGS
FOR THE FEET," a communication from abroad, to be as follows:-
The said Invention relates.-
Firstly. to novel modes and means of cutting, paring. shaping, blocking.
buting, or bevilling the soles and other parts of the bottoms of boots and
shoes.
Secondly, to novel modes and means of bevilling, reducing, and skinning
the soles and other various parts of boots and shoes.
[Price 8d.]

page_text: Thirdly, to a novel mode of shaping the part of the heel next the "waist."
of a boot or shoe.
Fourthly, to a peculiar construction and arrangement of apparatus for
hollowing out or shaping the part of the heel of a boot or shoc which is
immediately below the tread or next to the sole.
The following are the means I employ for carrying the first part of my Inyen-
tion into effect-When an outer sole is to be cut according to my improved
plan, I place it over a curved surface. which surface is made to project so
that when the leather is pressed upon it its surface will be at such an angle
that assuming a punch or knife to be pressed against it, and forced by pressure
through it to the surface upon which the material is cut, the cut edge of such
material would vary from the angle of its surface according to the curve of
the plate upon which it was placed when cut, and also according to the shape
of the surface of such plate or block; and I sometimes make the punch or
knife curved according to the particular shaped edge require. and I employ
a curved cutting surface in connection with it, and in some cases I employ a
flat punch in connection with a flat cutting edge, the part for shaping the sole
being placed within such cutting edge.
When cut an inner sole according to my improved process, the block
upon which it is cut is much more hevilled or tapered off towards the edge,
and the punch need not of necessity come in contact with any other surface, as a
shearing action will be found sufficient; but in cutting the outer soles 1 prefer
to combine the two. And also place the sole, which I prefer previously cut
to about the required size, and also reduced and shaped to the required thick-
ness, upon guide pins or between guides, so as to fit corresponding parts, and
also to guide the punch so as to cut the material with the greatest possible
accuracy. In some cases I employ a revolving cutter for bevilling or shaping
the edges, which I place upon a spindle, and instead of making such cutter
plain shape the face of such cutter so as to shape the edge of the sole to any
required form, and I propose to employ such cutters in two different ways:-
First, place a cutter upon a spindle between two centres or in bearings.
and present, or hold the sole to be pared to such cutter; the sole heing
previously placed between two plates; the cutter being furnished with a
shield, which ingether with the plates regulate the cut.
By another modification I fix the sole upon a compound slide, and impart
a circular motion to it by means of a worm and worm wheel, whilst the sole
is adjusted in its relation to the cutter by means of a groove and roller or a
weight and template.

page_text: The manner in which I carry into effect the second part of my Invention
and the means I employ are as follows:- bring the soles or other parts to
the exact thickness, taper, or substance, in the following manner:- place a
revolving cutter or other revolving reducing instrument upon a spindle in
suitable bearings, and below this cutter I place a slide, either free, so as to
work by hand, or so arranged as to work by means of a screw and nut. Over
this slide 1 place a plate or table, upon which place the material to be
operated upon, which I hold upon the said table by means of a clip, or pins or
points suitably placed or fixed therein. Or, employ atmospheric pressure
for holding the material upon the table, which table has a perforated surface,
or a porous surface may be used in connection with the parts already described.
A partial vacuum is then produced below such surface, and for this purpose I
prefer to employ a cylinder or exhausting apparatus worked by or in immediate
connection with the machine itself, which effect by means of a wormi
and worm wheel, communicating motion to a cord placed upon a shaft and
attached to the piston of the cylinder, a clutch being employed for releasing
it. As the cutter pares or reduces the surface flat, I give the required shape
or form to the top of the table, which will produce the desired shape in the
material to be cut. Should the edge of the material only have to be reduced
to a taper or incline edge, the table is made taper or wedge fashion accordingly,
so that the cutter will only cut a certain portion of it as it passes underneath,
I make such tables so that they can be readily moved and be replaced by
others of a different form, and I also make provision for raising or lowering
such table by means of an incline, a screw, or other mechanical contrivance,
and I propose to reduce or shape all the parts of boots and shoes in this
manner and in some instances I employ two other machines or apparatus for
effecting the operation described, and which I perform, firstly, by means of a
Steel band or continuous knife which place over two drums, between which
drums I place a table, upon which the material is to be placed; the said
table is similar to that already referred to, and placed upon a free slide, which
forms part of the framing of the machine.
The other arrangement consists of a knife or cutter worked by hand, and
which works upon metal face guides, and is moved obliquely so as to obtain a
cutting action.
The third part of my Invention consists of the employment of an implement.
somewhat like a gouge, and shaped to the exact form required, and which I
attach to a slide worked by a leved or other convenient arrangement. The
slide and other parts being fixed upon a bed plate, are worked in the following

page_text: manner: The heel to be shaped is placed bottom upwards upon a 'block and
underneath the cutting tool described, which is forced down by means of a
lever until the superflubus material is removed.
The fourth part of my Invention I carry into effect by means of placing the
heel in a moveable slide or lever as a temporary holder, and by which means 1
present it to a cutter, which is made of the required form, so as to hollow out
the heel. In some cases I propose to impart a compound motion to the heel
holder. The cutier is placed on a spindle in bearings in a suitable frame or
bed plate. This arrangement is more especially applicable to heels made
of wood.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said John Henry Johnson in the Great Seal Patent Office on
the 28th June 1859.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JOHN
HENRY JOHNSON, of 47, Lincoln's Inn Fields, in the County of Middlesex,
and of 166, Buchanan Street, in the City of Glasgow, North Britain, Gentle-
man; send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-eighth day of December, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-eight, in the twenty-second year of Her
reign, did, for Herself. Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the
sail John Henry Johnson, Her special license that 1. the said John
Henry Johnson, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others
as I. the said John Henry Johnson, executors, administrators, or assigns,
should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and
at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully
might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES OR OTHER COVERINGS
THE FEET," a communication from abroad, upon the condition (amongst
others) that . the said John Henry Johnson, by an instrument in writing
under my hand and seal. should particularly describe and ascertain the nature
of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and
cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar
months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.

page_text: NOW KNOW YE, that 1, the said John Henry Johnson, do hereby
declare the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to
be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement, reference being had to the accompanying Drawings, and
to the letters and figures marked thereon, that is to say:
The first head of this Invention relates to a novel mode of cutting or
punching out the soles so as to produce bevilled or inclined edges at a single
operation, and to the peculiar punch and cutting surface employed for that
purpose.
Figure is a transverse section of one form of this cutting apparatus: 'and
Figure 2 is a corresponding side view of the same, where A is the punch with
a curved cutting edge of the form of the sole; it is attached to a plate B.
which is guided by pins C. C: D is the cutting block convex on its upper
surface, this convexity being devised for the purpose of enabling the cuffer or
punch to cut the sole with a bevil; the cutting edge of the punch and also the
cutting block are found to correspond to the curvature of the sole.
Figures 3 and 4 are similar views of another mode of obtaining a similar
result. In this case the cutter A is straight upon its cutting edge, and it cuts
the sole upon a flat surface C; a convex block D being placed upon the flat
cutting surface, but of such a size as will fit inside the punch and allow its
cutting edge to come in contact with the surface C; the block D is so shaped
as to give the edges the necessary bevil, and can be replaced by one of a
different curve, it being easily removed from the cutting surface C. There is
a section at Figure 1, which I also employ; F, E. are pins in the blocks.
and may be either employed for piercing primarily guide holes in the
soles, or serve to take into holes previously made in, the soles, according
to the operation to be performed; G is a block of caoutchouc for the
purpose of regulating the pressure of the die E upon the leather *; the
convex block E. and the caoutchouc spring block, are not shewn at either
of the other Figures in order that the views may be more clear.
can be cut by this apparatus. with great ease by introducing the material
between the punch A and block D, and subjecting the same to any convenient
and suitable pressure.
I claim, in reference to this part of my Invention,-
Soles
First, the application and use of a curved punch or cutter, in connection
with a curved cutting surface or block, for the purpose of cutting or shaping
soles.
Secondly. I claim the introduction of a block or raised projection, the same

page_text: or similar to that shown at Figures and 2, but so as to enter within the
punch in connection with a flat cutting punch and flat cutting surface for the
purpose of entting and shaping soles.
Thirdly, claim the general combination of the parts shown at Figures I.
2, 3, and 4.
Fourthly. claim inserting guide pins in the cutting or shaping blocks.
whether for the purpose of perforating guide holes, or for the purpose of
previously perforated in the
allowing such pins being inserted into holes
material, and for determining the proper position of the parts in relation to
each other.
The second head of my Invention relates to novel modes and means of
bevilling, reducing, skiving, shaping, bulling, and splitting the various parts of
hoots and shoes. Figures 5 and 6 represent a side and end elevation of a
cutting apparatus for shaving, buling, cutting, or shaping the different parts
to any required thickness or form, according to the special shapes or
curves of the surface on which it is cui. The framing carries at one
end a traversing slide A, actuated by a screw spindle B, by a winch handle.
as shown: the traversing slide is fitted up with double wedged or inclined
surfaces for the purpose of setting it up more or less to the revolving cutter C.
which has a continuous motion imparted to it by the pulley D. The belt
pulley is also a constant mover; it is placed on a shaft carrying a worm in
gear with a wheel F on a shafi G fitted with a clutch so as to be engageable
with a shaft H: this shaft is formed with spiral grooves to carry a rope I.
which is attached to the solid piston J furnished with a valve, as shown, and
working airtight in a vertical open topped cylinder K; the bottom of this
cylinder communicates, by a pipe L, with a chamber in the face plate of the
table A', carrying the moveable template M, which will be better understood
by referring to Figure 7, which is an enlarged section of it, shewing the
leather upon it, and the surface upon which it is placed being of an irregular
form, as the material is brought in contact with the cutter, the more elevated
portions are removed, as shown by the dotted line in red ink.
When a
regular thickness is wanted, the surface upon which the leather is placed is
quite flat; this plate takes on two pins fixed in A', and is easily changed
for another; it is slightly recessed and perforated beneath the leather, so that
the elevation of the piston J which cause a partial vacuum in the recessed part.
and thus hold down the material to be operated on. The operator sets up the
material to be cut within the range of the cutter; he then puts the clutch end in
gear for producing the holding vacuum: the slide, with the material upon it,

page_text: is then moved by means of the screw B. which is furnished with the handle O,
as shewn, until the necessary entting has been effected. when he disengages
the clutch, the effect of which will be that the piston descends, as shown in the
Drawing the operator then removes the material, and withdraws the slide, the
machine being ready for another operation.
What claim under this head of my Invention is,--
First, the use and application of the revolving cutter when applied, for
cutting or reducing the surfaces of leather, as herein-before described.
Secondly, claim the application of slides and the other adjuncts connected
with them, for the purposes described, whether in connection with a revolving
cutter, or otherwise.
Thirdly, I claim the general arrangement of the machine and the mode and
means employed in obtaining the vacuum, whereby the exhausting process is
only brought into action during the cutting action of the machine.
Fourthly, do not claim the holding the material upon a surface by means
of a partial vacuum as the same is not new; but, what I claim is, the use and
employment of a revolving cuttting instrument, in connection with such holding
process.
Fifthly, claim the special construction and arrangement. of wedged or
inclined slides for raising or lowering the materials to the cutler.
Sixthly, I claim the application of irregular surfaces for producing various
shapes or thicknesses, in connection with a revolving cutter.
Figures 8 and 9 represent, respectively, an elevation and plan of another
arrangement of cutting machine constructed on the endless steel band principle.
where a pulley A on a cross shaft drives a pulley B, over which and over the
corresponding pulley B' there is passed an endless steel cutting band C, arranged
to cut or split the materially horizontally. The sole D is held down upon at
travelling table E similar to the compound slides A and A, Figures 5 and 6,
on the top of the framing, the sole being fixed either by pins or by atmo-
spheric pressure, as herein-before described, in reference to Figures 5 and 6, or
in any other convenient way. In this way as the endless cutting band con-
stantly works over pulley, the sole being traversed up against its cutting edge,
it is quickly split or thickened as required, and the thickness of the same piece
may be varied at pleasure, according to the curve or shape of the surface over
which the material is placed, as herein-before described. This machine takes
away the piece in one unbroken part; if thought. desirable, it will split the
material in two or more layers.
I lay no claim to the use or employment of an endless cutting steel band or

page_text: knife for cutting leather, as I am aware that the same is not new, but such
band has only been employed for cutting the material at right angle with its
surface and was arranged vertically; but what I do claim is,-
First, arranging the band horizontally, or placing it in relation to the
holding surface and material, so that instead of cutting such materials at right
angles with its surface. it will cut or travel in the direction of the plane of such
surface. or nearly so thereby spliting or paring or thickening the material,
according to the state of the surface upon which it is placed, and as may be
required by the operator.
Secondly,
band knife..
claim the moveable carriage or slide in connection with a
Thirdly. I claim cutting upon irregular surfaces. as shown at Figure 7. with
a band:knife.
Fourthly, claim a band in connection with the system of atmospheric
pressure for holding the material to be cut.
Figure 10 shows an elevation, and Figure 11 part plan of a machine which
illustrates a method and means employed by me for bevilling or shaping the
inner and outer edges of soles for boots and shoes previous to their being
attached to the other parts; and Figures 12. 13. 14. 14°, and 15, shew
modifications of the same process.
A at. Figure 10 is a table supported by the standards or uprights B; on this
fable is fixed the bracket C carrying the moveable screw centre D. hollow
boss F, which is bored to form a bearing for the spindle G, the screw pin H
forming a centre to the same; the cutter and groove pulley K are keyed
fast upon the pulley G, the roller 3 being free to move upon the same
motion is communicated to the spindle G by means of any prime mover
through the gut or band L, passing over the guide roller N. On the table A
is also fixed or formed the part M. on which the slide N' is fitted and free to
move. The stud O is fixed in it, on which stud is placed so as to turn freely
the worm wheel P; the worm shaft R is also secured in bearings
the slide N', and is for the purpose of imparting motion to the sole to be
operated upon through the worm wheel P, which is fastened or secured to
the template Q. The bracket S is also fixed to the slide N, the screw
tightener T passing through it, as shown, and is attached to the presser U for
the purpose of holding the sole to be operated upon, and which is placed
between Qand U, as shown in the Drawing, as undergoing the operation of
paring or shaping, motion being imparted to the sole by turning the crank handle
fixed on the worm shaft through the worm wheel P. The weight b which.
and 2 on

page_text: is connected to the free slide N¹ by a cord, as shown, keeps the template Q in
continual contact with the loose roller 3, and makes allowance for the irregular
outline of the template, which is of the same outline as the sole, and shown
more clearly at C. Figure 15 shews the straight edge or square cutter, which
is more adapted to paring the edge of outer soles. It will appear evident that
a sole can be held to the cutter by hand and the operation effected, and which
can be performed by running the spindle and cutter, shown at Figure 14,
between 2 suitable bearings, and holding the sole by hand to the reducing or
shaping instrument, or the sole may be placed between the two templates,
Figure 13, pins being passed through them, as shown in Figures 12 and 13, holes
having previously been made for that purpose, & which pins form an importaut
feature in this part of my Inven", & serve to regulate & determine the
relation of the sole *, the template Q, & also the presser U to each other; &
I prefer to fix the guide pins into the template Q altho' the same purpose
may be effected by fixing them in the presser U.
The cutters shewn on the spindle, Fig. 14, and on the spindle G in the
machine are made in 2 pieces, and secured upon the shaft so as to
form one.
Although I have fully described the arrangement shewn, Fig. 10, I do not
limit or confine myself to those special arrangements, nor do I lay claim to
the parts A, B, C, and S, or what may be termed the frame of the machine,
Fig. 10, except when employed for the purpose of bevilling or cutting the
edges of the soles of boots and shoes separately and previous to their being
attached to the other part; but what I do claim is, the bevilling, paring, or
finising of the soles previous to their being attached to the uppers by means
of a bevilling, cutting, reducing, or finishing instrument, whether employed in
connection with the template Q, and the presser U, and roller 3 on the
spindle G, or in combination with any or either of them; I also require the use
and application of the template cam Q for regulating and guiding the bevilling,
cutting, or polishing instrument for preparing the soles, as described, and
previous to their being attached to the other parts of the boot or shoe; I also
claim the holding of the soles between two holding surfaces, whether such
surfaces are employed as templates or cams, as shewn at Q and U, Fig. 15,
where the lower one U is employed as a template or cam, or whether such
templates are employed as holders when the sole is to be presented by hand to
the revolving instrument; and I also claim the use and application of the
guide or centre pins for the purpose described. I also claim the combination
of the holding surfaces, as described, with a free slide N; I also claim the

page_text: application and use of a revolving cutter, having its cutting edge so formed as
to shape or bevil the edge of the inner sole; as herein-before described.
Fig. 16 of my Drawings the plan of part of a table shewing a method
which may be employed for paring or bevilling certain parts of boots and
shoes, such as linings or stiffeners. Fig. 17 is a vertical section of the same,
and Fig. 19 are respectively a back view and section of a knife I employ
for cutting by this process, although any other form may be employed, as I do
not lay claim to a special knife. A is a rod connected with a treadle, not
shewn in the Drawing, and attached at its upper end to the presser plate B,
which is brought down on the surface C of the table, thereby pressing upon
the leather D, which is placed upon the moveable template E; this template is
laid upon the wooden block F, which is again laid upon a piece of caoutchouc
G, which acts as a spring for allowing for the differences in the thickness of
the material; H is a metal guide upon which the knife works; when operating
upon the material the treadle is pressed down until the presser B comes
down upon the surface C, and its pressing or overhanging portion is flush with
the guide plate H. The spring I raises the presser when the treadle is
released; the operation of paring is effected by pressing the knife down on
the guide H and overhanging surface of the presser, and gently sliding it
along in a slanting or sloping direction, cutting the protruding portion of the
leather.
Fig. 22 is a side elevation of a machine for hollowing out or shaping the side
nearest the tread of the heel of boots and shoes; and Figure 23 is a sectional
elevation of the same. A is a bed plate placed upon the standards B; C is
a shaft with a speed pulley C, and upon which is fixed a revolving cutter D
on the stud D', which is free to revolve in its bearing, is centred the lever E,
as shown, and which can be moved vertically or laterally. The carriage or
holder F with its adjuncts are attached to the lever E, and which are shown
more clearly in the detailed plan, Figure 24; G is the heel holder or clump,
and H is a lever pivotted upon the pin I, in which is fixed the tightening
thumbscrew K; L is a catch for retaining the lever H in proper position;
M is a stop for regulating the vertical travel of the lever. The machine with
a heel secured to the holding frame F, and supposed to be finished ready
for removing, the workman having pressed down the heel by hand upon the
revolving cutter by means of the lever E, until the said lever comes in
contact with the stop M, the result will be hollowed out, as shown, after which
the workman readily removes it by turning the thumbscrew, and removing the
lever, Although I effect this operation from preference in the particular

page_text: manner described and by means of a revolving cutter, the same shape or
nearly so as the curve or hollow of the heel, yet the same result can be
obtained by employing a revolving cutter of a much smaller size in com-
bination with a template on the principle of a carving machine, but I claim no
special arrangement or tool so long as a revolving cutter or shaping instrument
is employed in combination with any suitable holding frame, and the use and
employment of any such revolving tool or cutter alone or in combination with
a heel holding frame for hollowing out or shaping the special parts of the
heel of a boot or shoe referred, being what I claim under this head of my
Invention.
In witness whereof, I, the said John Henry Johnson, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Twenty-eighth day of June, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-nine.