Year: 1888

page_text: Date of Application, 26th Jan., 1888
Complete Specification Left, 26th Nov., 1888
Complete Specification Accepted, 22nd Jan., 1889
JOHN CUTLAN 56 Sydner Road Stoke Newington London N. Machinist do nerevy
declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
My Invention consists in the manufacturing of Boots and Shoes cutting the inner
sole the shape required and channelling the same on the grain side about Three
eighths of an inch from the edge so to receive the stitch. Then tack the inner sole on
the last the channelled part being outside place the upper on the last inside out sew
the upper to the inner sole through the channel or groove part by machine. Then
trim the surplus leather off making the scam flat then draw the last out, turn the shoe
right side out put the boot or shoe on the last again which puts the boot or shoe in
shape then the inner-sole will project about three-eighths of an inch around the edge
forming a welt. The sole being shaped and channelled in the ordinary way is tacked
to Boot or Shoe to hold it whilst being sewn. Then draw the last out and the sole is
stitched by machine to the projecting portion of inner sole which forms the welt. To
make the heel cut pieces of leather the required shape, put as many pieces together as
may be required, drive a nail through the same to hold them together, then drive wire
through the pieces of leather or lifts at the back part of heel the same bevel as the
heel which when done will hold them firmly together allowing the points of wire or
nails to project about a quarter of an inch above the leather that comes in contact
with the sole, then make corresponding holes in the sole the same angle as the
projecting points then insert the points in the holes made in the sole which forms a
dove-tail, and holds the back part of heel firmly to the sole of boot or shoe. Then
drive two or three nails from the inside of boot or shoe to fasten the front part of
heel. I claim the making of heavier boots and shoes by putting a piece of leather on
the bottom of the last the same being about one half of an inch from the edge of last
it serves as a filling, then put the upper of boot or shoe on the last in the ordinary
way, tack the edge of upper just catching the edge of leather on bottom of last, then
put on welt or middle-sole or sole tack the same to upper, then pull boot or shoe off
the last sew with machine the welt or middle-sole or sole to the upper then put back
the last into the boot or shoe hammer out the same, level, then tack on the sole then

page_text: pull the last out, then with machine stitch the sole to the welt or middle-sole around
the edge, then having an inner-sole the shape of last put the same inside the boot or
shoe then put the last in fasten the same at the toe and heel hammer out the sole it
beds the inner sole covering the nails and stitches making it quite smooth inside for
the foot like hand work, the boot or shoe made this way is not liable to rip, being
pliable and pleasant to wear.
TIST 1000
JOHN CUTLAN 56 Sydner Road Stoke Newington London N. Machinist do hereby
declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed,
to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
My Invention consists in the manufacturing of Boots and Shoes cutting the inner
sole the shape required and channelling the same on the grain side about Three
Eighths of an inch from the edge so to receive the stitch as shown by letter A. Then
tack the inner sole on the last the channelled part being outside place the upper on
the last inside out sew the upper to the innersole through the channel or groove part
by machine as shown by letter B. The upper might be tacked to the innersole around
the heel and waist instead of sewing before being turned. Then trim the surplus
leather off making the seam flat then draw the last out turn the shoe right side out
put the Boot or Shoe on the last again which puts the Boot or Shoe in shape then the
innersole will project about Three Eighths of an inch around the edge forming a welt
as shown by letter C. The sole being shaped and channelled in the ordinary way is
tacked to Boot or Shoe to hold it whilst being sewn. Then draw the last out and the
sole is stitched by machine to the projecting portion of innersole which forms the welt
as shown by letter C. then the sole can be stitched in the waist to the upper of Boot
or Shoe. To make the heel cut pieces of leather the required shape put as many
pieces together as may be required as shown by letter D drive a nail through the
same to hold them together then drive wire through the pieces of leather or lifts at
the back part of heel as shown by letter E the same bevel as the heel which when
done will hold them firmly together allowing the points of wire or nails to project
about a quarter of an inch above the leather that comes in contact with with the sole
as shown by letter F. then make corresponding holes in the sole as shown by letter G
the same angle as the projecting points, then insert the points in the holes made

page_text: in the sole which forms a dove-tail and holds back part of heel firmly, to the sole of
Boot or Shoe. Then drive two or three nails from the inside of Boot or Shoe to
fasten the front part of heel. I claim the making of heavier boots and shoes by
putting a piece of leather on the bottom of the last the same being about one half of
an inch from the edge of the last as shown by letter H it serves as a filling, then put
the Upper of Boot or Shoe on the last in the ordinary way tack the edge of Upper
just catching the edge of leather on bottom of last as shown by letter I, then put on
welt or middle sole or sole as shown by letter J. tack the same to Upper then pull
boot or shoe off last sew with machine the welt or middle-sole or sole to the upper as
shown by letter K. then put back the last into the boot or shoe hammer out the same
level then tack on the sole then pull the last out then with machine stitch the sole to
the welt or middle-sole around the edge as shown by letter L then having an innersole
the shape of last put the same inside the boot or shoe then put the last in fasten the
innersole at the toe and heel hammer out the sole it beds the innersole covering
the nails and stitches making it quite smooth inside for the foot like hand work, the
boot or shoe made this way is not liable to rip being pliable and pleasant to wear.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said Inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is:
1. The channelling of Innersole on the grain of leather about Three Eighths of an
inch from the edge forming a welt to stitch the sole to as shown by letter A.
2. The making of a welted Boot or Shoe by sewing the Upper to the innersole
inside out as shown by letter B.
3. The driving wire or nails through the back part of heel as shown by letter E.
4. Projecting points above the lifts and making corresponding holes in soles to
receive the same as shown by letters F & G.
5. The cutting of a piece of leather or any material that will hold a tack about one
half of an inch smaller than the edge of last and tacking the upper to same as shown
by letters I & H.
6. The sewing of Boots and Shoes to the upper without an innersole made in the
way described as shown by letters J & K.
7. The putting in the innersole after the Boot or Shoe is sewn to form the
feather.
Dated this 26th day of November 1888.
JOHN CUTLAN.