IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY AND APPARATUS EMPLOYED IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FRONTS, RUCHES. FRINGES. RUFFLES, AND OTHER TRIMMINGS."
Year: 1878

page_text: LETTERS PÅTENT to Henry William Gough, of the Town and County of the
Town of Nottingham, Civil Engineer, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS
IN MACHINERY AND APPARATUS EMPLOYED IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FRONTS,
RUCHES. FRINGES. RUFFLES, AND OTHER TRIMMINGS."
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Henry William Gough at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 14th December 1878.
HENRY WILLIAM GOUGH, of the Town and County of the Town of Nottingham,
Civil Engineer.
"IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY AND APPARATUS EMPLOYED
IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FRONTS, RUCHES, FRINGES, RUFFLES, AND OTHER
TRIMMINGS."
This Invention has for its object improvements in the manufacture of a greater
variety of fronts, ruches, fringes, and other trimmings than has heretofore been
made by one machine, which I effect by machinery and apparatus consisting of the
following parts, namely, a standard to which is secured a vertical circular flanged
boss turned up true on each edge, and on each side of the outer central flange; upon
each side of this flange a ring is free to revolve, each being held on the boss by a
plate. Each ring is provided with a groove or a toothed flange and one or more
guides, and is caused to revolve either by a toothed wheel gearing into it or by a
cord or belt passed round it. When driven by a toothed wheel such wheel may
form an intermediate wheel, gearing into a second wheel on a driving shaft; or the
driving shaft may be provided with a grooved speed pulley, and a cord or belt may
be passed round such pulley and round one or both of the toothed rings before
named so as to cause the said rings and the guides they carry to revolve reversely
to each other. The flanged boss is hollow so as to allow the guide or guides of one
ring to revolve within it and project as far beyond the boss as the guide or guides
of the other ring. In front of the first named standard is a second standard, to

page_text: which is secured a suitable guide or guides, each capable of being adjusted in width
to suit the breadth of the material or materials employed. These guides conduct
the material or materials through the hollow boss to a pair of pressing rollers
carried by a pair of standards at the back of the hollow boss. These rollers are
hollow, and are heated by a mixture of gas and air in the usual way, and are
caused to revolve simultaneously by toothed wheels gearing into each other. The
lower roller is also provided with a toothed bevel wheel, capable of adjustment to
or from one of the standards so as to gear into a toothed bevel wheel on the driving
shaft before named which revolves at a right angle to the rollers, being supported
by suitable bearings. The adjustable guides before named are provided on the out-
side with adjustable bearings in which revolve two spindles, each provided at its
outer end with a toothed wheel, each of which gears into an intermediate toothed
wheel which is capable of adjustment vertically in a bracket below the guides before
named. One of the spindles is provided with a grooved pulley to receive a cord or
belt, which is also passed round a speed pulley on the driving shaft. Each spindle
carries either a close or open screw, the outer end of which, instead of terminating
so as to resemble a corkscrew, smaller at its end, increases in diameter to the end,
such increasment commencing opposite the point where the pressing rollers
commence to touch the materials operated upon. Each guide on the revolving
rings is provided with a spool from which it receives a thread, cord, ribbon, or
other material, which being passed round the screws before named will be carried
forward to the heated pressing rollers and form loops enclosing the material or
materials conducted by the adjustable guides, the loops formed by the guide or
guides of one ring lying the reverse way to the other, and the increased diameter of
the screws releases the loops in the same ratio as the take up of the pressing rollers.
By the employment of such described machinery and apparatus the goods produced
have a more regular appearance and the loops are not distorted.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said Henry William Gough in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 13th
June 1879.
HENRY WILLIAM GOUGH, of the Town and County of the Town of Nottingham,
Civil Engineer.
"IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY AND APPARATUS EMPLOYED
IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FRONTS, RUCHES, FRINGES, RUFFLES, AND OTHER
TRIMMINGS."
This Invention has for its object improvements in the manufacture of a greater
variety of fronts, ruches, fringes, ruffles, and other trimmings than has heretofore
been made by one machine, which I effect by machinery and apparatus consisting
of the following parts, namely, a standard, to which is secured a vertical circular
flanged boss, turned up true on each edge, and on each side of the outer central
flange; upon each side of this flange a ring is free to revolve, each being held on the
boss by a plate. Each ring is provided with a groove, or a toothed flange, and one
or more guides, and is caused to revolve either by a toothed wheel gearing into it
or by a cord or belt passed round it. When driven by a toothed wheel such wheel
may form an intermediate wheel, gearing into a second wheel on a driving shaft;
or the driving shaft may be provided with a grooved speed pulley, and a cord or
belt may be passed round such pulley and round one or both of the toothed rings
before named, so as to cause the said rings and the guides they carry to revolve
reversely to each other. The flanged boss is hollow so as to allow the guide or
guides of one ring to revolve within it and project as far beyond the boss as the
guide or guides of the other ring. In front of the first named standard is a second
standard, to which is secured a suitable guide or guides, each capable of being
adjusted in width to suit the breadth of the material or materials employed. These
guides conduct the material or materials through the hollow boss to a pair of
pressing rollers carried by a pair of standards at the back of the hollow boss.
These rollers are hollow and are heated by a mixture of gas and air in the usual
way, and are caused to revolve simultaneously by toothed wheels gearing into each
other. The lower roller is also provided with a toothed bevel wheel capable of
adjustment to or from one of the standards so as to gear into a toothed bevel wheel.
On the driving shaft before named, which revolves at a right angle to the rollers,
being supported by suitable bearings, the adjustable guides before named are pro-
vided on the outside with adjustable bearings in which revolve two spindles, eacli
provided at its outer end with a toothed wheel, each of which gears into an inter-
mediate toothed wheel capable of adjustment vertically in a bracket below the
guides before named. One of the spindles is provided with a grooved pulley to
receive a cord or belt, which is also passed round a speed pulley on the driving
shaft. Each spindle carries either a close or open screw, the outer end of which,
instead of terminating so as to resemble a corkscrew, smaller at its end, increases in
diameter to the end, such increasment commencing opposite the point where the
pressing rollers commence to touch the materials operated upon. Each guide on
the revolving rings is provided with a spool from which it receives a thread, cord,
ribbon, or other material, which being passed round the screws before named will
be carried forward to the heated pressing rollers and forms loops, enclosing the
material or materials conducted by the adjustable guides, the loops formed by the
guide or guides of one ring lying the reverse way to the other, and the increased
diameter of the screws releases the loops in the same ratio as the take up of the
pressing rollers. By the employment of such described machinery and apparatus
the goods produced have a more regular appearance and the loops are not distorted.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.

page_text: Figure 4, a right end view shewing the bracket for intermediate toothed wheels
hereafter mentioned.
Figure 5, a front view of a double pair of pressing rollers.
Figures 6 and 7 are respectively a side view and plan of one pair of adjustable
spindles and guide bearings indcated by arrows on Figures 2 and 1.
Figure 8 shews one of the helically coiled open screws hereafter referred to.
The corresponding parts in each Figure are indicated by the same letters where
necessary.
I employ two modifications of machinery and apparatus. The first modification
is shown at Figures 1 to 4, and consists of the following parts, namely, a standard A,
to which is secured a vertical circular flanged boss B, turned up truc on each edge,
and on each side of the outer central flange upon each side of this flange a ring
provided with a toothed flange is free to revolve, the ring C being caused to revolve
the reverse way to the ring D; each ring is held on the flanged boss by a circular
plate E. The flanged boss B and toothed flanged rings C and D are shewn in plan
on the upper half of Figure 1, and in section on the lower half, and the teeth are
only shewn in this Figure; the toothed intermediate wheels and driving wheels
hereafter mentioned are shewn the size they are turned to previous to having the
teeth cut on them.
The ring C is caused to revolve by an intermediate toothed wheel C₁ gearing
into it, and driven by a toothed wheel C secured on a driving shaft F, which
revolves in bearing standards secured to the bed plate A' of the machine. The
ring D is caused to revolve the reverse way to the ring C by a toothed wheel
D₁ which gears into it, and is secured on one end of a short shaft which revolves
in a bearing boss capable of adjustment on the bearing bracket of the inter-
mediate toothed wheel. The shaft carries a similar toothed wheel at the opposite
end, which gears into an intermediate toothed wheel D driven by a toothed
wheel D secured on the driving shaft F. The wheels C and D³ are made in
halves, so that they may be readily taken off the driving shaft to substitute others
of greater or less diameter, for a purpose hereafter mentioned. The rings C and D
are each provided with one or more guides G and spool pins G¹ on which spools G³
Each spool is provided with a pressure spring and lock nuts to regulate
the delivery of the material on the spool from it.
revolve.
The flanged boss B is hollow so as to allow the guide or guides carried by the
ring D to revolve within it. To the right of the standard A. is a second standard,
to which is secured the bed plate of one or more suitable guides H, each capable of
being adjusted in width to suit the breadth of the material or materials employed.
Such adjustment is effected by means of a nut H³ under the centre, or a nut at each
side of the centre of the bed plate. Each nut is secured in the centre of the length
of a rod, each end of which is screw threaded the reverse way to the opposite end.
The screwed ends of the rod take into holes which are tapped to receive them in
studs which project through and slide in slots in the bed plate, so that the studs
can be adjusted to or from each other according to the width of the material or
materials over which other materials are to be successively or alternately helically
coiled, either the same way or reversely to each other. The guides H terminate at
the left end in three or more fingers; both above and below these fingers prevent
the ribbon or other material carried by the guides G from pressing upon the
material or materials carried by the guide or guides H until pressed down and
seized by certain pressing rollers hereafter mentioned. The guides H may be
formed in one piece to the right of the adjusting rod when only one width of
inaterial is to be coiled upon, or to suit divers widths of material they may be
formed in halves, as shewn by the dotted lines at Figure 1, so that by unscrewing
the clamping screws H¹ they may be removed to give place to other half guides
suitable for narrower or wider materials, or for shallower or deeper materials, that
is to say, suppose the guides H are employed to conduct a pleated material towards a
the pressing rollers such guides will not require to be so deep as if they were
employed to guide a puffed, gophered, crimped, or ruffled ruch or front to the rollers.

page_text: The guides H conduct the material or materials through the hollow boss B to a
pair of pressing rollers I, carried by standards to the left of the boss. The pressing
rollers may have their axles hollow throughout the whole of their length, or solid
axles may be employed and the rollers may be flanged, as shewn in Figures 1 and 5.
In either case they are heated by the flame of a mixture of gas and air admitted
within the axles or flanges in the usual way.
The pressing rollers are caused to revolve simultaneously by toothed wheels
gearing into each other, such wheels being secured on one end of the roller axles.
The lowermost axle is carried by three bearings, and its outermost end is provided
with a wheel J having its teeth at such a bevel or angle that it will readily gear
into the threads of a worm wheel K secured on the left end of the driving shaft F.
The toothed wheel J and worm wheel K are not shewn with the teeth and threads.
on them, as they will vary in proportion according to the diameter of the pressing
rollers employed, but for the sake of illustration suppose the diameter of the pressing
rollers were two inches in diameter instead of four inches, as shewn in the Drawings,
then the worm must be proportioned so as to make six revolutions to one revolution
of the toothed wheel on the lower roller axle, but in the arrangement shown at
Figures 1 to 4 the worm wheel must be proportioned to make twelve revolutions
to one of the pressing rollers; then suppose there are 80 teeth on each flange of the
rings C and D and I employ two wheels each having 135 teeth on the driving shaft
I shall obtain 22 revolutions of the rings to each 13/2 inches, or nearly so, in
length of the material or materials drawn between the pressing rollers, and by
employing toothed wheels, each with 234 teeth on the driving shaft, I shall obtain
38 revolutions of the rings in the same length, or nearly so; and by employing
wheels on the driving shaft having a greater or less number of teeth in the same
relative proportion I obtain a greater or less number of revolutions around the
same length of material or materials. The adjustable studs which slide in the slots
of the guide bed each carry an axle pin above the bed. The axle pins nearest the
pressing rollers have bearing brackets swivelled upon them in which revolve two
spindles K, the ends of which project through the bearings and terminate just
beyond the centre of the pressing rollers, such terminations being much thinner
than the length of spindles to the right of the bearing. The sides of the bearings H
nearest the pressing rollers have arms projecting from them on which the guides or
half guides H are clamped by the screws H¹ before mentioned. The right end of
each splindle has a collar Hslipped on it before being passed through the swivelled
bearing H. The projecting end of each spindle is provided with a toothed wheel L
between these wheels, and gearing into them is a toothed wheel L¹, to the boss of
which is secured another toothed wheel L2, both of which revolve together on an
axle capable of adjustment vertically in a standard M secured to the bed plate of
the machine. The toothed wheel L³ gears into an intermediate toothed wheel L³,
which is driven by a toothed wheel L secured on the driving shaft. The axle of
the wheel L³ is capable of adjustment in a curved slot in the standard M, the curve
being struck from the centre of the driving shaft, so that as the wheel L' is raised
or lowered to gear into the spindle wheels L, according to the distance they are
adjusted apart, the intermediate wheel can be raised or lowered to gear into the
wheel L and the wheel L on the driving shaft.
The narrow ended spindles K', shewn in plan at Figure 1, together with the
bearings H3 and H³, are interchangeable for larger bearings carrying thicker spindles
to correspond with the depths of the guides H employed according to the thickness
of material or materials conducted to the rollers. When great accuracy is required
in the spacing of the material or materials coiled by the guides G instead of the
narrow ended spindles K' I employ open ended screws, one of which is shewn at
Figure 8, one to each spindle. This screw may form the left end of the spindle,
or it may be secured on the spindle by a set screw, as shewn. The end of the screw
terminates just beyond the centre of the pressing rollers, such termination being
much thinner than the end next the bearing. The coils of the screw for a portion
of its length increase in diameter to the end, such increasement commencing

page_text: opposite the point where the pressing rollers commence to touch the materials
operated upon.
Each guide G receives a thread, band, cord, ribbon, chenille, gimp, or other
material from its spool C² and passes it round the screwed terminals of the spindles
or round the narrow ended spindles, thus enclosing the material or materials
conducted by the adjustable guides H to the pressing rollers, the material carried by
the guide or guides of one ring lying coiled the reverse way to the material carried
by the guide or guides of the other ring. The increased diameter of the screws or
the narrower ends of the spindles releases the loops in the same ratio as the take up
of the pressing rollers.
Above the upper pressing roller I provide a bracket carrying two or more pins
for spools of cotton or other material, which are passed through holes or a slot in a
guide N which holds the cotton or other material between the edges of the rollers.
The cottons or other material are moistened by water or a suitable liquid cement
contained in a trough O, so that as they pass between the rollers they are flattened
out, the moisture being sufficient to stick the whole of the fabrics together. The
revolving rings may be adjusted to cross the material or materials at the point
where they are pressed together, or so as to cross on the edges of the material or
materials they enclose. By such means if only one width of material or materials
are conducted by the guides H to the rollers after being passed through, it may be
cut down the centre and will then form two single fronts or other trimming, having
loops over one edge.
But by employing two widths of material or materials in the guides H, such
widths running parallel to each other, and pressing them in the centre or other
portion of each breadth by the double pair of pressing rollers shown at Figure 5,
and then severing the product between the parts pressed together, I obtain a front,
ruch, or fringe having loops over one edge and loose ends over the other edge. By
such means it is evident I am enabled to produce a greater variety of goods which
have never before been made, and by employing ribbons or any of the materials
above mentioned, or other materials, and omitting the ruches or other material or
materials conducted by the guides H, I am enabled to produce a trimming composed
wholly of ribbon or other material of two or more colours, helically coiled round
the centre the same way, or alternately reversely helically coiled round the
centre.
Having now described the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the
same may be performed, I declare that I claim,---
The construction and employment of reversely revolving rings, each carrying
guides for helically, alternately, and reversely coiling materials of two or more colours
round a centre or round one or more breadths of other materials, substantially as
hereinbefore described and illustrated in the Drawings annexed.
In witness whereof, I, the said Henry William Gough, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Twelfth day of June, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and seventy-nine.