IMPROVEMENTS IN STUD FASTENINGS, AND A SYSTEM OF ORNAMENTING AND ADAPTING BELTS, CRAVATS, RIBBONS, DRAPERIES, AND OTHER ARTICLES TO STUD FASTENINGS
Year: 1859

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Johan Valda, of London, in the County of Middlesex,
for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN STUD FASTENINGS, AND A SYSTEM OF
ORNAMENTING AND ADAPTING BELTS, CRAVATS, RIBBONS, DRAPERIES, AND OTHER
ARTICLES TO STUD FASTENINGS."
Sealed the 15th November 1859, in pursuance of an Order of the Lord
Chancellor and dated the 20th May 1950
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Johan Valda at the Office
of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 20th May
1859.
I, JOHAN VALDA, of London, in the County of Middlesex, do hereby declare
the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN STUD FASTENINGS,
AND A SYSTEM OF ORNAMENTING AND ADAPTING BELTS, CRAVATS, RIBBONS, DRAPERIES,
AND OTHER ARTICLES TO STUD FASTENINGS," to be as follows (that is to say) :-
The objects of this Invention are the formation and use of stud fastenings
of peculiar construction, and which in most cases are formed with longer
shanks than the stud fastenings now in use for the purpose of securing a
number of folds or thicknesses, by a stud fastening at one time, for the
formations of festoons in draperies, the formning of bows or rosettes from
ribbon, and other purposes, and in ornamenting and adapting cravats,
ribbons, belts, draperies, and other articles to be used with moveable stud
fastenings, by forming patterns thereon, in such a way, that the stud head
will form a centre or other portion of the design, which may be in relief,
and a rigid material, such as gold may be used in the formation of the orna-
ments or emblazon ineuts. It is proposed to manufacture ribbons and other
Price Ad 7-

page_text: like articles, so that eyelet holes formed at intervals for the reception of the
shank of the stud will constitute a portion of the design.
To construct a stud fastening of two pieces, according to this Invection, the
first or back piece is composed of a hollow shank or sheath, from one end of
which spreads a button or stud head, or other suitable shape, constituting the
base of the shank or sheath; the other end of this shank or sheath is left open,
and the inner side of its edge being formed with a collar or projecting rim.
The second or front piece of this stud is composed of a plain button head, or
any suitably flat or raised figure, to resemble a brooch or other like ornament
or base for a brooch, rosette, or sculptured, or raised ornament having a hollow
shank projecting from the back thereof (which will fit into the hollow shank
or sheath of the first piece described). In this smaller hollow shank is fitted
one or more spring catches which expand laterally out of the side or sides of
the shank, so that when the smaller shank is inserted into the interior of the
larger one they will expand, aud prevent the two pieces comprising the stud
being separated in consequence of the spring catches abutting against the
under side orsides of the collar or rin. These catch springs are acted upon by
a stud pin or pins (or other mechanical equivalent), which may be so formed
as to constitute a portion or portions of the ornamental face of the fastening.
This improved stud is used as follows:-Insert the larger shank or sheath
from the back of the article or articles to be fastened, through suitable
eyelet or button holes, then introduce the shank on the back part of the
ornamental front piece of the fastening from the front into the sheath or
hollow shank on the back piece. The two pieces are then securely united
by means of the spring catches.
This part of the Invention may be modified so as to be applicable to a
variety of purposes, such as securing harness and draperies of all kinds. It
is also applicable to binding studs, and other purposes, and may be made of
a highly ornamental character, without interfering with the utility of the
Invention. There may be an addition made to the foregoing stud by
introducing circular or other suitably shaped nuts or washers on one or both
of the shanks of the studs in such a manner that the folds of the draperies,
belts, &c., may be fixed or set against the button heads, if required, and for
the purpose
of attaching one or both portions of the studs to one or more
folds of the draperies on the one or both pieces.
The following is a modification of the stud comprised in two pieces, and
applicable to the same or similar purposes as the foregoing: -The first or
back piece is in its form composed of a hollow shank or sheath, from one end of
which spreads a button, or stud head, or other shape, suitable for and consti-

page_text: tuting the base of the said shank or sheath; the other end of this sheath is
left open, a groove or passage is formed in its inside, commencing from its
mouth or open end, and running in a direction towards its base and
parallel to the side of the sheath, until it turns with a right angle, and
again turning with a right angle back towards its mouth, that is, tracing
in its passage a form similar to the letter L.
The interior of this sheath contains a spiral spring,one end of which is fixed
to the base end of the sheath, the other end, capped by a plate, fuces the
mouth or open end of the said shank or sheath. The shank of the second or
front piece has projecting from its side a fixed stud or knob, which takes into
the L-shaped groove formed in the inner side of the sheath of the first or back
piece. This piece may be formed as a base for a plume, crest, pendant,
10sette, brooch, &c., or formed as a brooch, or it is otherwise capable of
admitting of any amount or kind of decoration or form.
The manner of clasping it is thus -By inserting the shank of the front
piece into the sheath or shank of the back piece, its side tongue enters the
groove prepared for it in the inside of the latter by pressing the shank end of
the front piece into the back sheath, the spring in the latter yields until the
tongue of the former is arrested by the angular turn the groove takes; then by
turning the front piece, its tongue passes along the groove until it is again
arrested by the returning angle, at which point the spring is allowed to act,
and forces backward or outward the shank of the front piece, when the
tougue
of the latter is again arrested by the end of the groove so preventing
its further retreat. The two pieces are then firmly locked together.
Another modification consists in the formation of a stud in one piece, com-
posed of a plain button shaped or decorated head, at the back of which is
attached a shank longer than the shanks of studs hitherto made, and which
may be tapered towards its base, or formed in any other suitable manner, and
of sufficient length and strength to contain the three, four, and more foldings
of a cravat or belt; or the above foldings, in addition to the foldings of shirt,
neck band, and collar, or other articles of dress, or any kind of drapery sup-
ported by or attached to belts, bands, or ribbons. This shank is based or backed
by a button head of sufficient size and strength to withstand the additional
space and weight of the three, four, or more foldings of such articles.
The Inventor claims this as a peculiarity of form essentially differing from
any other stud hitherto used, and specially adapted to and a consequence of
the developement of his system of folding belts, draperies, &c., as hereafter
described,as no other stud that has been made would answer the same purpose.
Another modification of the said stud is of a suitably shaped head formed of

page_text: two or more parts, which are hinged or jointed, and which are influenced by
one or more springs that may be contained either in the body of the stud head
or in the shank of the stud. The other parts of this stud are similar in their
construction to those previously herein described, and applicable to similar
purposes. The manner of its action and use is thus:-By pressing up the
parts forming the stud head, it will allow itself to be passed through the
perforations in the drapery or belt, the latter being applied; then by giving
the stud head liberty the constituent parts of the said head spring back,
securing in their grasp and on the shank of the said stud the folds of
drapery, belt, or ribbon.
In some instances the head or front of this last described modification
composed of hinged or jointed parts may be in its general design unsuited
for passing through the perforations of draperies, belts, &c. In such cases
the winged or jointed parts of such head or front on being pressed together
or toward each other or upward may form a convenient handle or hold
while the articles appropriate be passed by their perforations over the base
or back of the stud on to its shauk.
The second part of this Invention relates to the ornamentation and adapta-
tion of draperies, belts, cravats, ribbons, bands, and other articles to be used
with moveable stud fastenings, and consists of a number of eyelet or button
holes comprised in one article, which can be used in combination with one
stud at one time, so as to form bows, knots, folds, or festoons of the material
without other fastening, and causing no creases in the folding; by which
arrangement the belts, and so forth, will admit of being formed of a highly
decorative and durable character, and allow of designs worked in gold or other
riged material being used in the formation of ornaments, or emblazonments
in relief. It will also admit of materials such as leather, metals, and other
substances which are not suitable for tying, kuotting, or folding together,
being applied to draperies, belts, cravats, and other articles, and of the special
manufacture of silk, metal, leather, or any other kind of substance for belts,
ribbons, bands, &c. in which their perforations would form the centres or
parts of their designs in combination with their studs, or of draperies
similarly formed in their manufacture for or adapted to the same purposes.
The various above described modifications of the improved stud
fastenings, and so forth, may be used in combination for the production of
designs in upholstery and other purposes.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, and
of an Order of the Lord Chancellor, filed by the said Johan Valda
in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 24th November 1859.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, JOHAN VALDA,
of London, in the County of Middlesex, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twentieth day of May, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and fifty-nine, in the twenty-second year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me,
the said Johan Valda, Her special licence that I, the said Johan Valda,
my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said
Johan Valda, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any
time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times there-
after during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make,
use, exercise and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and
Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN STUD FASTENINGS, AND A SYSTEM OF ORNAMENTING AND ADAPTING BELTS,
CRAVATS, RIBBONS, DRAPERIES, AND OTHER ARTICLES TO STUD FASTENINGS," upou
the condition (amongst others) that I, the said Johan Valda, my executors
or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one
of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature
of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed,
and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six
calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters
Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Johan Valda, do hereby declare the
nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement (that is to say):-
The objects of this Invention are the formation and use of stud fastenings of
peculiar construction, and which in most cases are formed with longer shanks
than the stud fastenings hitherto in use, for the purpose of securing a number
of folds or thicknesses by a stud fastening at one time for the formation of
festoous in draperies, the forming of bows or rosettes of ribbon, and for other
purposes. And in ornamenting and adapting cravats,ribbons, belts, draperies,
and other articles to be used with moveable stud fastenings, by perforating and
forming patterns thereon, in such a way that the stud head will form a centre
or other portion of the design, which may be in relief; and a rigid material,

page_text: such as gold, may be used in the formation of the ornaments or emblazonments.
It is proposed to manufacture ribbons and other like articles, so that eyelet
holes formed at intervals for the reception of the shank of the stud will con-
stitute a portion of the design.
To construct a stud fastening of two pieces comprised in this Invention.
The first or back piece is composed of a hollow shank or sheath, from one end
of which spreads a button or stud head, or other suitable shape constituting the
base of the shauk or sheath. The other end of this shank or sheath is left
open, the inner side of its edge being formed with a collar or projecting rim.
The second or front piece of this stud is composed of a plain button head, o
any suitably flatted or raised figure to resemble a brooch or other like orna-
ment or base for a brooch, rosette, or sculptured or raised ornament, having a
hollow shank projecting from the back thereof (which will fit into the hollow
shank or sheath of the first piece described.) In this smaller hollow shank is
fitted one or more spring catches which expand laterally out of the side or
sides of the shank, so that when the smaller shank is inserted into the interior
of the larger one, they will expand and prevent the two pieces constituting the
stud being separated in consequence of the spring catches abutting against the
under side or sides of the collar or rim. These catch springs are acted upon
by a stud pin or pins (or other mechanical equivalent) which may be so formed
as to constitute a portion or portions of the ornamental face of the fastening.
This improved stud is used as follows:---Insert the larger shank or sheath,
that is, of the back piece, from the back of the article or articles to be fastened
through suitable eyelet or button holes, then introduce the shank of the back
part of the ornamental front piece of the fastening from the front into the
sheath or hollow shank of the back piece. The two pieces are then securely
united by means of the spring catches.
This part of the Invention may be modified so as to be applicable to secure
harness, accoutrements, and draperies of all kinds, any articles of personal
wear, also as binding studs, and a variety of other purposes, aud
may be
nade of a highly ornamental character without interfering with the utility of
the Invention. There may be an addition made to the foregoing stud, by
introducing circular or other suitably shaped nuts or washers, on one or both
of the shanks of the studs in such a manuer that the folds of draperies, belts,
and so forth, may be fixed or set against the button heads if required, and for
the
purpose of attaching one or both portions of the studs to one or more folds
of the draperies on the one or both pieces.
The following is one modification of the stud comprised in two pieces, aud
applicable to the same or similar purposes as the foregoing. The first or back

page_text: piece is, in its form, composed of a hollow shank or sheath, from one end of
which spreads a button or stud head,orothershapesuitableforandconstituting
the base of the said shank or sheath. The other end of this sheath is left open,
a groove or passage is formed in its inside, commencing from its mouth or
open end, and running in a direction towards its base, and parallel to the side
of the sheath, until it turns with a right angle, and again turning with a right
angle toward its mouth, that is, tracing in its passage a form similar to
the letter L. The interior of this sheath contains a spiral spring, one end of
which is fixed to the base end of the sheath, the other end, capped by a plate
faces the mouth or open end of the said shank or sheath. The shank of the
second or front piece has projecting from its side a fixed tongue, shoulder,stud,
or knob, which takes into the L-shape groove formed in the inner side of the
sheath of the first or back piece. This piece may be formed as a base for a
plume, crest, pendant, rosette, brooch, and so forth; or it is otherwise capable
of admitting of any amount or kind of decoration or form. The manner of
clasping it is thus:-By inserting the shank of the front piece into the sheath
or shank of the back piece, its side tongue enters the groove prepared for it
in the inside of the latter; by pressing the shank end of the front piece into
the back sheath,the spring in the latter yields until the tongue of the former is
arrested by the angular turn the groove takes; then by turning the front piece
its tongue passes along the groove until it is again arrested by the returning
angle, at which point the spring is allowed to act and forces backward or out-
ward the shank of the front piece, when the tongue of the latter is again
arrested by the end of the groove, so preventing its further retreat; the two
pieces are then firmly locked together. The principles of this stud may be
applied to many different purposes, for instance, they may answer the double
purpose of a key to its lock, and handle to the drawer, or door, and so forth.
In architecture or house decoration to attach rosettes or other sculpture, in
stone, metal, wood, and so forth, to ceilings, cornices, and so forth; also to
secure harness, accoutrements, and so forth. They may be applicable to orna-
mentations of any character in any kind of substance; also for purposes of
utility too numerous here to mention. They may be modified, so that the
shank of the front piece, retaining its tongue or tongues, or shoulders, may be
formed stiletto or dagger-shaped, or in part arrow-headed, or in any other
suitable shape,in a manner that it may pierce its own passage through drapery,
and so forth, into its sheath of the back piece, the latter being formed suitable
for its reception and retention, which in some instances may be constituted
with the principles of its sheath inside.itself, that is, the back piece projecting
no sheath. It is not necessary to confine the enclosed groove or passage of

page_text: the back piece to a first principle involved in this stud fastening, viz., to the
returning angle found in the shape of the letter L, (see Figures 19, 21,) as it
admits of various forms, from simple,such as shown by Figures (20,22,23,24)
and so forth, to the most complex and intricate, according to the purposes for
which they would be made to apply, from a simple brooch or button stud
fastening, to a key affording the greatest security to objects or articles
deposited in its custody. All of which involved principles being consequent
of the developement of these improvements in stud fastenings, I claim.
Another modification of stud fastening, comprised in this Invention, is that
by which the means of attaching or fastening the front to the back piece is
supplied by a third piece, as in the following:-A perforated shank, which in
some examples may be formed with a point to pierce its own path through
drapery, and so forth, the base of which may be formed as a button, or other
way suitable for the back piece, and a shield or stud head or base for such,
and so forth, with sheath combined; the latter laterally perforated, are part of,
or form the front piece. The third, or fastening pi ce, is of a chain, or bolt,
or ring, or other equivalent, which is passed through the two corrosponding
perforations of the sheath and shank, thus uniting the three pieces as one
stud fastening. These third, or fastening pieces, admit of a variety of forms,
mechanical applications, and designs, in combination with their other parts,
with or without spring or springs, catch or catches, so that they may be passed
through, or act on the points of attachment of their corresponding stud pieces
in diverse ways, anteriorly, posteriorly, laterally, or internally, according to
their conjointly different modifications to secure each their fastenings. The
third and front pieces may be incorporated.
In other modifications comprised in this Invention, where the ends of the
back-piece shanks are either notched, indented, shouldered, or perforated, or
made in other applicable forms, the third pieces are formed correspondingly
suitable to clasp them, securing their fronts. In some examples these again
are made to act without a third piece, as the following:-In the back of the
front piece may be made either a slit or narrow opening in the direction of its
centre, or other part or parts of its back, according to a design given, or
simply a perforation in its centre or other part. In the first case, one or more
springs or spring bolts are fixed on or in the inside, or interior of the front
piece in such a manner that by passing the indented or shouldered end of the
back-piece shank, by its indents on and into the slit, or narrow opening of the
back of the front piece, the spring or springs yields laterally, or away from its
path till it has passed to its destined position, when it is immediately shut in
by the spring or springs closing again behind it, thus locking the end of the

page_text: back-piece shank into the front piece; or, in the other cases of central or
other perforation, by inserting the shank end of the back piece into the
aperture made for it at the back of the front piece, and pressing it onwardly
in. The front piece is constituted with suitable modifications of mechanism to
attach or release it when desired; or others may be again so modified, that
on the insertion of the shank end, and turning the front piece partly round,
the former is locked or released at will by means of the mechanical contrivance
the latter contains. Also, in instances where the shank or shanks of the back
piece may be formed as a pin, or blade, or other kind of shank, with angular
or other turns, the front piece is suitably formed with the mechanical means
to receive and secure it at pleasure, connecting the corresponding pieces
as one.
.
The following is another modification of this Invention, comprised, also in
two pieces, viz., front and back :-The front piece is of a stud head, the interior
of which contains one, two, or more bolts of peculiar construction, with their
springs by which they are influenced; one end of this characteristic bolt has
a rectangular turn formed with a projecting shoulder. These bolts are placed
in connection with their springs, each in its own separate bed, groove, or
guide in the direction of the centre of the base of the stud head, their rectan-
gular-turned ends comprising their shoulders, passing through the centre, may
be covered or cased by a corresponding hollow shank projecting from and
forming part of the centre back of the stud head. Round the side or sides of
this shank holes are pierced, facing and corresponding with the bolt shoulders,
the other ends or heads of these enclosed bolts pass either anteriorly, pos-
teriorly, or laterally through the stud head, and which may form part of, or
be incorporated with the general design of such stud.. The back piece of
this stud is of similar construction to the former studs described, of two
pieces with hollow shank. The action of and manner of using this modifi-
cation are thus :-By pressing toward their centre the bolt heads, which
project from and through the stud head, the inner or rectangular ends of the
enclosed bolts are driven nearer the centre, so that their shoulders, which
their springs have held in their first position protruding through the side per-
forations of the shank, are forced within it; then by inserting the shank,
which encloses these bolt shoulders into the sheath of the back piece of the
stud, and letting loose the bolts, they spring backward or outward from the
centre, causing their shoulders to protrude again through the shank, as in the
first position, and lock behind the rim of the sheath of the back piece, thus
firmly fixing the two pieces as one. The above stud, like the preceding of
two pieces, can be formed with a single spring with its bolt.

page_text: There are various shapes and angles into which the inner ends of these
bolts may be formed to answer the same or similar purposes as the foregoing,
for instance, such as shown in Figures 25, 26, 27, and so forth. In such
cases, both the front and back pieces of the stud would be modified in form
applicable to the character of bolt or bolts for which each were intended. In
some instances the shank of the back piece may be made solid, with a
perforated end formed so as to enter the head of the front piece to be bolted
within the head; in this case, as in other modifications of this Invention, the
front piece may be made without any shank.
Another modification and principle of this Invention is as follows:-The
back piece is of a plate, bar, or button, or other suitable base for a fastening,
in the centre or other part of which is attached one or more chains, laces,
cords, or other equivalents, or projecting from its base is a shank or shanks,
to or through the end of which may be attached or threaded one or more
chains, cords, ribbons, and so forth. The front piece is of a plate or stud head
or base for ornament, a perforation is made through its centre or other part or
parts, from back to front It is also formed with one or more perforations
or rings, hooks, tubes, or other equivalents, placed either anteriorly, diagonally,
or in any other direction or position, according to, and may be blending with
a given design of the stud or front piece; these perforations and so forth,
correspond with the one or more chains or cords and so forth of the back
piece; a bar or other equivalent for its destined purpose may be made pendant
to the front piece. The mannerofapplying this stud fastening is thus:-Thread
the one or more chains or cords and so forth of the back piece through the
perforations of the drapery, belt, and so forth, from their back, and then
through the first described perforation of the front piece from its back, and
press the latter closely up to the former, then pass the chain, or cord, or tag
of the ribbon and so forth, according to the design of the stud, may be con-
secutively through the one or more lateral or other perforations and so forth
that may form part of the front piece, the two pieces are then connected as
one, securing the drapery and so forth between them. The chain, or lace, and
so forth, in many instances blending with the design, which may be varied in
a brooch and so forth, at the will of the wearer, by the diverse ways the
attaching ribbons, chain, or lace and so forth, may be crossed or passed
through or on its front perforatious, hooks, or passages. The bar or other
equivalent forming a third piece may be introduced over against the first
described perforations, so that the cords on their application may pass through
the latter, then over the former, into or on to their corresponding lateral or
other catches or perforations of the front piece, thereby grasping the bar, so

page_text: strengthening the whole fastening to any extent, according to the magnitude
of its construction. In some examples the tag of the ribbon and so forth, may
act as a needle or stiletto to pierce its own passage through the folds of the
articles to which it may be applied; the cords or shanks and so forth may be
multiplied in the same piece.
As a fastening plate, the front piece admits of various ways of being con-
structed for securing its one or more cords and so forth, as it may be
constituted with hooks, tubes, projecting pins, rings, catches, springs, perfora-
tions, or any other equivalents, and with its chain or cords and so forth, may
form either the most simple or complicated attachment and firm fastening, but
always easily unravelled. I claim this principle of my Invention as adapted
to many other different purposes, such as binding studs and so forth, to secure
harness and accoutrements; in machinery and marine purposes to attach ropes
and other:
gear; in upholstery,cords and so forth; and any articles of personal
wear, or other objects applicable.
The following description of stud fastenings of two pieces is also a con-
sequent of this Invention, the end of the shank of a back piece is perforated,
or the back piece may project a link. Its front piece may be constructed in
various adaptable forms, so as to be fixed on or fastened in, or otherwise
attached to such perforation, on the latter appearing through the folds of
ribbon and so forth, which have been passed on to its link or shank.
Another modification of stud fastening is as follows:-A shank which may
be solid, of a suitable shape, forms part of and projects backwardly from the
head of this stud. A slit or narrow opening is made through this shank; on
which is coiled a spiral spring, shut on at the back end. The back piece is of
a corresponding hollow shank or sheath which may be button based. The
shauk of the front piece enveloped by its spring is inserted into the sheath of
the back piece, when this outer shank or sheath is pierced by a bolt which
passes through the slit of the enclosed shank at the front end of the enclosed
spring, this bolt is then riveted, making the two pieces as one stud. Its
mode of use and action are thus:-Supposing one end of this stud being pulled
outwardly or away from the other end is then suddenly released, it springs
back again toward its other end, that is the shank apparently contracts. In
this action the two ends of this stud compress together the folds of drapery,
and so forth, which at either end may be passed over on to its shank.
hole
In some examples of this and the following description of stud fastening, a
may be pierced laterally through the head or front, where an additional
piece may be attached suitable to act either mechanically or ornamentally, or
both. This modification consists in the formation of a stud in one piece, com-

page_text: posed of a plain button shaped or decorated head, at the back of which is
attached a shank longer than the shanks of studs hitherto made, and which
may be tapered towards its base, or formed in any other suitable manner, and
of sufficient length and strength to contain the three, four, or more foldings of
drapery, or of a cravat, belt, or ribbon, or the above foldings in addition to the
foldings of skirt, neck band, and collar or other articles of dress, or foldings of
any kind of drapery that may or may not be supported by or attached to
belts, bands, or ribbons. This shank is based or backed by a button head
of sufficient size and strength to withstand the additional space and weight of
the three, four, or more foldings of such articles. I claim this as a peculiarity
of form, essentially differing from any other stud hitherto used, specially
adapted to and a consequence of the development of my system of folding
belts, draperies, and so forth, as hereafter described, as no other stud that has
been made would answer the same purpose..
Another modification of the stud is of a suitably shaped head formed of two
or more parts, which are hinged or jointed, and which are influenced by one
or more springs, that may be contained either in the body of the stud head or
in the shank of the stud. The other parts of this stud are similar in their
construction to those previously herein described and applicable to similar
purposes. The manner of its action and use are thus:-By pressing up the parts
forming the stud head it will allow itself to be passed through the peforations
in the drapery or belt, the latter being applied, then by giving the stud head
liberty, the constituent parts of the said head spring back securing in their
grasp, and on the shank of the said stud, the folds of drapery, belt, or ribbon
and so forth. In some instances the head or front of this last described
modification of stud composed of hinged or jointed parts,may be in its general
design unsuited for passing through the perforations of draperies, belts, and so
forth; in such case the winged or jointed parts of such head or front, on
being pressed together, or toward each other,or upward,may form a convenient
handle or hold, while the articles appropriate be passed by their perforations
over the base or back of the stud on to its shank.
My general remarks on improved stud fastenings of one, two, or more
pieces, comprised in this Invention:-
A partor the whole of the operative principles of each or either modification
herein or above described may be inultiplied in the same stud fastening
proportionately to its required size, strength, or character.
In some instances the position of their operative structure may be reversed,
that is, that which has been described as forming part of a front piece may be
transposed with that of the back piece; they may also be composite in their

page_text: structure of the whole or in part of the principles herein set forth; they may
likewise be constructed so that their shanks can be made of any given form or
size, or entirely without shank or shanks, as with a chain, rod, or cord or any
other equivalent connecting link,according to the purposes for which they may
be applied, which are manifold; also, that they can be modified so as to be
attached by various other mechanical equivalents too numerous here to
mention, and with or without any kind of spring or springs.
The general design of either their back or front may, if desired, be entirely
removed from all appearance of a button head, and can be disguised or de-
corated to any extent and of unlimited character of form, and extend to any
size or surface, irrespective of the size or number of perforations in the
draperies, belts, ribbons, and so forth, through which their shanks or other
connecting links may pass, either singly or collectively; so that in many studs,
as in a breastplate, or any other object for covering a surface, or in a con-
tinuous row or line of studs their backs or fronts, or both, may be all
incorporated into one connected plate or piece, either materially or designedly,
or both; and that a stud, or a back piece, or front piece, or two corresponding
pieces of a stud, may be composed of many shanks or fastenings, rods, cords,
links, or chains, or any other equivalent adapted to connect the two or more
pieces.
The second part of this Invention relates to the ornamentation and
adaptation of draperies, belts, cravats, ribbons, bands, and other articles to be
used with moveable stud fastenings, and consists of a number of eyelet or
button-holes, comprised in one article, which can be used in combination with
one stud at one time, so as to form bows, knots, folds, or festoons of the
material without other fastening, and causing no creases in the folding, by
which arrangement the belts and so forth will admit of being formed of a
highly decorative and durable character,and allow of designs worked in gold
or other rigid material being used in the formation of ornaments or emblazon-
ments in relief. It will also admit of materials, such-as leather, metals, and
other substances which are not suitable for tying, knotting, or folding together,
being applied to draperies, belts, cravats, and other articles, and of the special
manufacture of silk, metal, leather, or any other kind of substance for and
into draperies, belts, ribbons, bands, and so forth, in which their perforations
would form the centres or parts of their designs in combination with
their studs.
The variously above-described modifications of my improved stud fasten-
ngs may be used in combination for the production of designs in upholstery
and other purposes.

page_text: That this my said Invention may be the more readily seen and understood,
I have hereunto annexed a few sketches in partial illustration of several
modifications of my improved stud fastenings; like letters marked thereon
have reference to similar parts.
Figure 1 is a front view of a stud fastening, the spring catches of which are
acted upon by pressing together the parts marked B; and Figures 2 and 3 are
side views of the two parts forming the stud (shown detached). A is the oval
front of the stud; B, the pieces for pressing together; C, the spring catches
within D, the shank of A, the front piece; E, the base of the back piece,
which is formed in one piece with F, the hollow shank or sheath, into which
the shank of the first piece takes. And Figures 4, 5, and 6 represent another
design of the same, the spring catches of which are actuated in the same
manner by the parts marked B.
Figure 7 is another modification, the spring catches of which are actuated
by G, the jointed folding flaps, and which may be formed to act against the
heads of the spring catches either in an elevated or depressed position. In
this modification the shauk of the front piece in which the spring catches play
and the sheath on the back piece is of a flat form, suitable for the introduction
into an ordinary button-hole. And Figures 8 and 9 are side views of the
same, showing the front and back piece detached. H is the flat hollow
shank of the front piece, in which the spring catches work; I the fixed front
of the stud, which is in one piece with the shank, and to which the flaps G,
which actuate the spring catches, are jointed; K, the flat hollow shank of
the back piece, which is in one piece with L, the circular, or other suitably
shaped flat base.
Figures 10, 11, and 12, represent another design working on the same
principle as those exhibited by Figures 1, 2, and 3, and also Figures 4, 5
and 6.
Figure 13 is a partial sectional view of a stud fastening, constructed with an
expanding shauk. M is the semi-spherical head or front of the stud, in one
piece with the shank N, which is surrounded by P, a spiral spring, which is so
connected thereto, as to continually press it towards the bottom of Q, the
sheath or hollow shank of the back piece, which is constructed with R, the
base or rear of the stud.
Figure 14 is a front view, Figure 15 is a section of the front piece, and
Figure 6 is a side view of the back piece of another modification of my
improved system of stud fastenings. S are right and left-handed bolts, which
are pressed outwards by the action of f, the spiral springs which encompass
the bolts, and are enclosed in the head of the stud.

page_text: Figures 17 and 18 are used to exhibit another modification consequent on
my improved construction of stud fastenings. Figure 17 is a section of the
front piece, which in this case is formed with a solid shank and with a short
projecting arm in the side, which takes into an L-shaped groove or recess
formed in the surface of the interior of the hollow shank of the back piece.
Figure 18 is shewn in section in the lower part for the purpose of exhibiting
the expanding spring fitted therein, for the purpose of keeping the front piece
steady in its position when locked into the L-shaped recess. The upper part
of the shank is cut up the centre and laid open for the purpose of exhibiting
the L-shaped locking recess cut in the inner surface thereof.
Having now fully described and ascertained the nature of this my said
Invention for "Improvement in Stud Fastenings, and a System of Ornament-
ing and Adapting Belts, Cravats, Ribbons, Draperies, and other Articles to
Stud Fastenings," and how I believe it may be best brought into practical
effect, in conclusion I would remark that I wish it to be understood that I do
not confine myself to the precise details or relative dimensions herein-before set
forth and described, as it will be readily seen that the same may be variously
modified and combined in diverse ways without departing from the Invention.
In witness whereof, I, the said Johan Valda, have hereunto set my
hand and affixed my seal, this Eighteenth day of November, in the
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-nine.
Witness,
W. WALKBR,
of 44, Castle Street, Liverpool.
JOHAN (L.S.) VALDA.