Improvements in or relating to Sewing Machines
Year: 1895

page_text: Date of Application, 4th May, 1895
Complete Specification Left, 4th Feb, 1896-Accepted, 2nd May, 1896
Improvements in or relating to Sewing Machines
I, FRFDFRIC OLDFRSHAW JFRRAM of 40 Longley Road, Tooting, London in
the County of Surrey Sewing Machine Expert, do hereby declare the nature of
this invention to be as follows
—
This invention relates to certain improvements in sewing machines, more
especially rotating hook machines It is arranged to accommodate a reel or
bobbin holding much more thread than usual, and far more than can be received in
an ordinary shuttle
In carrying my invention into effect, I employ a take-up device consisting of a
vibrating or swinging arm having a claw, hook or their equivalents above the work
and below the needle when raised or 1 may employ one of these take-up arms in
conjunction with an ordinary take-up The arm or aims are operated by a suitable
rotary cam or cams or other device formed so that during a part of the movement
of the needle the arms reniain stationary, while during the remaining part of the
needle s movement, the motion of the arm or arms is accurately time to give out
the needle thread to the rotating hook to carry over the bobbin and afterwards to
All friction
draw up the thread and take up the slack and complete the stitch
over the rotating hook is avoided by the simultaneous action of the two take-ups
giving out the thread to the required amount Turning now to the rotating hook
and to the bobbin containing the under thread, I make the holder for the latter
somewhat in the shape of a segment of a circle, the sides over which the upper
thread divides to pass over the bobbin being elliptical and brought to a somewhat
acute point or edge, one portion of the peripheiv being deflected to make a
certainty of the thread being divided Stops are provided to keep the holder in
the required position, and it is so mounted on a swivel frame that it can easily be
turned to one side when required to place the empty bobbin, a suitable locking
device being provided for holding it in position The interior of the bobbin holder
is furnished with a spindle on which to mount the bobbin and furnished with
suitable springs for ejecting the bobbin as may be desired These springs also are
used to keep the bobbin with the requisite degree of firmness in its place The
outside of the bobbin holder is also furnished with a tension sping which may be
regulated by a screw or other desirable means I so arrange the rotating hook
that it shall rotate in a given circular path round the circular bobbin holder and
also have an independent rotation or partial rotation in itself so as to better seize
the needle thread and draw its loop over the circular bobbin containing the under
thread and also to release the thread when drawn over the bobbin
To go more into detail, I prefer to mount the hook in a frame secured to a
revolving shaft, so that when the shaft rotates, the hook shall rotate around the
circular bobbin holder which contains the bobbin for the under thread The hook
itself is mounted on the end of a secondary spindle in this revolving frame and is
connected by means of suitable rods with a fixed cam or cams so that the look will
revolve or partially revolve on this axis, while at the same time revolving round
the bobbin holder It will be seen therefore that as the needle reaches its lowest
point and then begins to rise again and form a loop the hook meantime is adapted
to meet the needle, and its point to enter and engage the loop
Further rotation causes the needle to rise and the hook to pull out and expand
the loop, the take-up arm or arms letting down thread enough for this purpose,

page_text: sufficient slack being allowed by the take-ups to allow thread to pass over the
bobbin holder without it leaving the hook, the hook and bobbin holder expanding
the loop as it were, and the former pulling it over the bobbin holder
Immediately this is accomplished the hook rotates on its secondary axis and so
casts off the loop, the take-up or take-ups, then draws up the loop The thread
from the bobbin holder is drawn up and pulled into the cloth by this loop and
completes the stitch In the meantime while the stitch is being drawn up and
during the interval between the casting off of one loop and the engaging of the
next the hook is rotating or partially rotating on its secondary axis so as to be in
the right position for its point to engage a new loop
To absolutely ensure the loop instantly slipping off the hook at the required
point, I provide a small guard which prevents the loop being accidentally carried
round with the hook beyond that point
The rotating hook is provided with a small pulley which is adapted to push up
the bobbin holder as it passes underneath so as to allow of the thread passing the
stops that keep the holder in position, or I can arrange that the holder can be
tilted at the requisite time for the thread to pass by means of a rocking lever or
levers actuated by a cam on central shaft
The feed is driven and operated by two cams, on the central evolving shaft
which drives the rotating hook, in combination with a series of rocking shafts,
levers, rods, etcetera, or in any other suitable manner, one cam being designed to
regulate the length of stitch, the other the necessary rising and lowering of the
feed teeth The latter cam vibrates a lever or arm attached firmly to a supple-
mental oscillating shaft on which is fixed another arm that caries the toothed feed
plate To obtain the cross motion and regulate the length of stitch I provide a
rocking sleeve through which passes a lever, one end of this lever is actuated on
the central shaft by the other cam that rocks both the lever and sleeve
the axis
of the sleeve, being the fulcrum of the lever The opposite end of the lever is
attached to a short arm that forms part of a swing frame carrying the afore-
mentioned oscillating shaft to which the feed plate is fixed The cam oscillates
the lever on the axis of sleeve the opposite end of lever vibrates the swing frame
and so actuates the feed To alter the length of stitch an adjustable supplementary
swing frame is provided in which is mounted the rocking sleeve By swinging
this frame the rocking sleeve is moved along the lever, thus altering the distance
of fulcium of rocking lever, and regulating the throw of feed The adjustable
supplementary swing frame is retained firmly in any desired position by a thumb-
screw passing through the base of head of machine and adapted to clamp the said
frame in any position
Dated this 3rd day of May 1895
WM P 1HOMPSON & Co,
Of 6, Lord Street, Liverpool, Patent Agents for the Applicant
Paper Of Frating tg T
I FREDERIC OLDERSHAW JERRAM of 40 Longley Road, Tooting, London
in the County of Surrcy, Sewing Machine Expert, do hereby declare the nature of
this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement
-
This invention relates to certain improvements in sewing machines, more
especially to that class of machine wherein the lower thread as well as the needle
thread are worked directly off common spools such as form articles of trade, thus
enabling the machines to be worked for a considerably longer time without changing

page_text: the spools, than is the case with shuttle or certain other lock stitch machines,
wherein special spools bave to be used for the under thread and which have to be
comparatively frequently rewound
The invention will be understood from the following description, reference being
had to the accompanying drawings, in which
Figure 1 is an end elevation partly in section of the head of a sewing machine
constructed in accordance with my invention, parts being removed or broken away
to show the mechanism more cleaily,
Figure 2 an inverted plan of the machine,
Figure 3 a fragmentary front elevation on two sheets with parts broken away to
show the interior mechanism,
arm
Figures 3 and 38 detail views of the claw at the end of the auxiliary take up
Figure 4 a front elevation of the needle bar and take-up arms, and the cams for
operating the latter,
Figure 5 an end elevation of the same,
Figure 6 a face view of my improved rotary looper and stationary cams by which
it is operated,
Figure 7 a side clevation partly in section of the said stationary cams with the
rotary looper and its carrier brought into a vertical position
Figure 8 a detail view of the cam groove rollers and links,
Figure 9 a detail view of the plate which carries the said roller>
Figure 10 an elevation showing the reel holder mounted in the side cheeks?
Figure 11 plan thereof
Figures 12 and 13 an elevation and plan of the reel holder alone,
Figures 14 and 15 the same of the cheels alone,
Figure 16 au en elevation of the hinged bracket which supports the reel
holder
Figure 17 plan of the said bracket
Figure 18 detail view of the connecting rod B³,
Figures 19 to 25 inclusive show the arrangement for operating and regulating
the throw of the feed, Figure 19 illustrating the arrangement for regulating the
length of stitch, Figure 20 the arrangement for obtaining the necessary rising and
lowering of the feed teeth, Figure 21 a detail view of the crank shaft S', Figure 22
an end elevation thereof, Figure 23 a detail view of the crank shaft R2, Figures 24
and 25 end elevations thereof, and Figure 26 a detail view of the rocking
beam F¹
Figures 27 to 29 inclusive show further details of the arrangements for varying
the throw of the feed teeth, Figure 27 being a detail view of the crank shaft Ui
and Figures 28 and 29 detail views of the crank arm U2 which adjusts the
sleeve U,
Figure 30 an alternative view of an arrangement for lifting the reel holder to
facilitate the looping of the needle thread
Similar letters of reference indicate corresponding parts on all the hgures
The general form or outline of the sewing machine represented in these drawings
does not in part differ materially from that of lock-stitch machines in common use,
there being a bed-plate A, a strong arm A¹ to support the needle bar B above the
cloth plate B', and a driving shaft B2 extending through the arm A¹ to drive the
needle bar B through the intervention of a crank pin b and connecting rod 6¹
The under thread which in this machine is carried on an ordinary reel or bobbin in
a reel holder is interlooped with the needle thread to form the lock stitch, a loop
from the needle thread being thrown out and seized by the point of a rotary looper,
which, in the progress of its revolution, carries it over and around the reel holder
in which the under thread is contained
Referring now more particularly to Figures 1 to 18, C is the ordinary take-up
arm having an eye through which passes the needle thread Dan auxiliary
take-up arm, provided with a claw d which is formed and tapered as shown in

page_text: Figures 1, 3, 34 3B, 4 and 5, so that when the claw descends into the position
shown by the dotted lines in Figure 4 it shall stand clear of the needle thread, thus
giving out the whole of its slack, but when the needle thread has been carried over
the bobbin containing the under thread this claw will engage the needle thread and
ascend into the position shown in Figure 3, thus pulling up the slack thread in
conjunction with the other take-up arm C and complete the stitch D' is the
bobbin carrying the needle thread, D2 the tension device for the needle thread
E is the cam for operating the take-up arms, e being the cam groove for operating
the ordinary take up arm C, and e¹ the cam groove for operating the auxiliary
take-up arm D These cam grooves are so formed that during a part of the move-
ment of the needle, the arms C and D remain stationary, while during the remaining
part of the needle's movement, the notion of the arms is accurately timed to give
out the needle thread for the looper to carry it over the reel holder and afterwards
to draw upon the thread to take up the slack and complete the stitch By the
arrangement and simultaneous action of the two take-ups each take-up giving out
the thread at equal rate, the thread will not slide on the hook of the looper and
F is
consequently all friction between the thread and looper hook will be avoided
a bell crank lever for communicating the motion from the cam groove e¹ to the
auxiliary aim D, Ga pivoted block or sleeve through which the aim D slides
forming a guide therefor and enabling the claw d at the end of the arm to have a
slight movement laterally in addition to its vertical travel The movement of the
take up arm D is mainly vertical however, instead of having a lateral swinging
motion as in other arrangements and therefore the pull on the thread being vertical
there is no danger of bending the needle, and the necessity of a guard for preventing
the needle being bent is dispensed with The take-up aim C is provided with a
crank c which engages in the cam groove e Dotted lines show the path of travel
of the arms and D
Turning now to my improved rotary looper and to the bobbin containing the
under thread, the former comprises a hook H having an independent oscillatory
movement on its axis h, the object of this hook being to seize the loop throwr out
by the needle and carry it down and over the circular bobbin holder I containing
the under thread (the dotted lines showing the circular path of the hook) then on
arriving approximately at the bottom of the bobbin-holder, hook H will release the
loop which is then forthwith completely gathered up by the take-ups and D
The reel holder I, which contains a recl of thread is located below the bed-plate of
the machine and is made somewhat in the shape of a segment of a cucle, and its
convex sides, over which the loop of the upper thread divides, are elliptical, and
brought to a somewhat acute edge, but is the loop of the nec tle thread is generally
thrown out at one side of the needle, I prefer to deflect the periphery of the holder I
at the top so as to ensure the loop being divided as it is pulled over the bobbin
holder by the hook HI I is the ieel or bobbin, Jhanged or pivoted bracket in
which the bobbin holder is loosely mounted, and which allows it to be swung into
the most convenient position for enabling an empty bobbin to be replaced by a new
one The reel holder is provided with cheeks having studs on which the
bobbin holder rests It has also an aun which can be engaged by a spring
controlled catch for locking the bobb holder and its bracket in position, or
by depressing this catch so as to release the arın, the reel holder can be swung to
a position which enables the ieel to be removed The reel is mounted on the
spindle I in the interior of the hollow reel holder and this spindle may be
provided with suitable spings for ejecting the bobbin when required
The springs
also are used to keep the bobbin with the requisite degree of firmness in its place
The thread from the bobbin is passed through a suitable tension K conveniently
fixed to the bolder, this tension device being regulated by a screw
desirable means
The hook H in its circular travel passes in close proximity to
the point of the needle to engage the loop of the upper thread and as it travels
round the reel holder I, it draws the loop over the latter, the loop meantime opening
out and widening, it being expanded by the convex sides of the holder
or other
In order

page_text: to secure to the hook H an independent oscillatory movement on its axis, I mount
the hook on the end of the oscillating spindle h having its axis in the revolving
carrier N, which is mounted on and revolves with centre shaft M is a crank
fixed to oscillating spindle L' a swinging frame pivoted at 1 to the revolving
carrier frame N Two cam rollers h³ and are mounted on this frame and are
constructed to work in the groove I¹ of fixed cam L he is a link which couples
the swing frame L' and the crank, ha crank with cam groove roller h³ on end,
This roller h³ is made
the said crank being mounted on the pivot 8 of the link h
to run in the inner groove 12 of the fixed cam L The grooves I¹ and 12 in
stationary cam L are constructed so that they work in unison and give an irregular
oscillatory movement to the spindle h on which hook H is mounted
To provide
for the passing of the upper thread between the reel holder I and the stops ¹ of
side cheeks without friction, a small grooved pulley O is mounted on the axis of
the hook in such a manner that in the rotation of the hook and pulley round the
reel holder, the groove of this pulley comes in contact with and lifts the reel holder I
clear of the stops 2¹ P is a guard fixed to the bobbin holder bracket which
prevents the loop being accidentally carried round with the hook beyond that
point The rotary spindle M is driven from the shaft B2 by means of cranks and
the connecting rod B³
The mode of action is as follows
-
The machine being put into motion, the needle descends, passing through and
carrying the bight of the thread through the material As the needle pisses its
dend point and begins to rise, the take-up arms C and D begin to move, and in
doing so slacken the thread, throwing out a loop which is immediately engaged by
the point of the looper hook As the needle rises, the looper rotates expinding
the loop of the needle thread and diawing from the reel sufficient thread in addition
to form a stitch while the take-up arms descend and supply the length of slack
thread they previously gathered up, thus enabling the hook to pass the loop of
thread over the bobbin holder As already stated there is no friction of the thread
on the looper, as the take ups deliver the loop simultaneously and at an equal rate
As the bobbin holder is located slightly eccentric to the travel of the hook H, the
roller O, as it approaches the bottom of the holder I, will come in contact with
the latter and lift it sufficiently off the studs for the loop to pass to the other
gide The take-up arms have by this time given out all their slack thread, in
which position the claw of the take-up arm D stands clear of the thread as shown
by the dotted lines Figure 4 The needle has now about passed its highest point,
and is beginning to descend while at the same time the hook has oscillated on its
axis into such a position, preferably a nearly horizont il one, by the combined
motion of the carriei N and the rollers 3 and 4 working in the cam grooves as
to cast the loop off As soon therefore as the loop has passed over the bobbin
holder, the take-up arms move rapidly upwards drawing the 'oop off the hook and
pulling it completely up into the work, the take up C pulling up as much of the
loop as can safely be pulled through the needle eye, and the take up D engaging
the thread between the needle eye and the work, and pulling up the remainder of
the slack, by ascending into the position shown in Figure 3 thus completing the
stitch before the needle again enters the work The guard P aforesaid ensures the
thread being cast off the hook at the proper time The looper in the meantime
rises, and its point oscillates into such a position that it will take the next loop
thrown out by the needle, when the above described operations will be repeated
Referring now to the feed mechanism which is shown more particularly in
Figures 19 to 29 inclusive, and also Figures 1 and 2, the lifting motion for the
feed Q is obtained from the rotating shaft M, which has for this purpose the cam R
upon it
This cam operates the arm R' on the shaft R³ and so gives the rising
and falling movement to the feed teeth Q The shaft R however is adapted to
oscillate in the pivots r in the crank arms S, these crank arms being fixed to the
shaft S' The to and fro motion for the feed Q is obtained from the cam T ou

page_text: the rotary shaft M which cam operates by means of the rock beam T', a crank T
on the rock shaft S' A reciprocating motion is thus imparted to the pivots r
through the crank arms S, and a combined lifting and to and fro motion is given
to the feed by the two cams R and T The lifting motion is constant but the to
and fro motion can be varied by altering the position of the sleeve U which forms
the fulcrum in which the rock beam T¹ rocks U is a crank shaft which is
coupled to the leeve by the cranks u The other end of this shaft U¹ is provided
with a lever US communicating with the outside of the machine, and by adjusting
this lever the position of the sleeve on the rock beam T can be varied at pleasure,
and thus vary the to and fro motion of the feed Q
In Figure 30, another arrangement is shown for lifting the bobbin holder I to
enable the loop to be passed over it by the hook In this hgure, V is a cam fixed
to the shaft M, W a pivoted lever operated by the cam in such manner that at each
revolution of the hook, the holder I shall be lifted sufficiently for the loop to pass
over the holder
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, 1 declare that what I
claim is
1 In a two reel lock-stitch sewing machine, the combination with a rotary
- looper of a reel-holder 1 located below the bed-plate, and adapted to contain the
reel o bobbin of the under thread, said reel-holder being so arranged and con-
structed with convex sides and deflected periphery as to ensure cach loop of the
upper thread as it is thrown out at the side of the needle and caught by the
rotary looper, being in turn received and passed around it to form the stitches,
substantially as described and shown in the drawings
for
2 In lock stitch sewing machine, the combination with the holder
containing the reel of the under thread, of a hinged or pivoted bracket such as J,
said bracket being formed with cheeks having studs upon which the holder
rests, and means for locking the said pivoted bracket in position or releasing the
same, whereby the reel holder can be swung into a position which enables a reel
to be removed when exhausted and a new one substituted, substantially as described
and shown in the drawings
3 In a two reel lock-stitch sewing machine, having a reel-holder located below
the bed-plate to hold the reel of the under thread, the use of a looper comprising a
hook adapted to rotate around the reel-holder, and having an independent
oscillatory movement on its axis, said rotary oscillatory hook being arranged to
seize the loop of the upper thread thrown out by the needle, expand it, and carry
it over the bobbin holder containing the under thread, substantially as described
and shown in the drawings
4 In a sewing machine, having a rotary looper foi engaging and expanding the
loop of the needle thread and carrying it over the ieel holder, the arrangement for
avoiding friction of the needle thread on the said looper, which consists in pro-
viding in combination with the take-up C an auxiliary take-up D, each take-up
being so arranged and operated by suitable actuating mechanism as to simultaneously
and at an equal iate give out the loop of the needle thread, so that there shall be
no longitudinal sliding or slipping of the needle thread on the looper hook
substantially as described
5 In a lock-stitch sewing machine having a reel holder for containing the reel
of the under thread, and a rotary looper for carrying the loop of the needle thread
over the reel holder, the use in combination therewith of two take-ups and
mechanism for actuating the same, the said actuating mechanism being so arranged
that in giving out the loop of the needle thread, the two take-ups shall move
simultaneously so that each shall give out the thread at an equal rate, while in
taking up the loop after it has been passed over the bobbin holder, one take-up
will pull as much of the loop as can safely be pulled through the eye of the needle,

page_text: and the other engage the thread between the needle eye and the work and gather
up the remainder, whereby the whole of the loop is taken up before the needle
again enters the work, substantially as described
6 The arrangement of the take-up arm D, cam E, pivoted block G and
crank F for operating the take-up arm by contact with the cam grooves,
substantially as described
7 In combination for the purpose of imparting to the looper an independent
oscillatory movement on its axis, a rotary carrier N in which the axis of the looper
is mounted, a fixed cam L having two cam grooves I' I', a swinging frame L' or
its equivalent pivoted to the carrier and having two cam rollers, mounted thereon,
adapted to work in the cam groove I¹, a crank h³ or its equivalent with cam roller
mounted thereon and adapted to work in the cam groove 12, and links or arms for
coupling the aforesaid swinging frame and crank with a crank on the axis of the
looper substantially as described
8 In a lock-stitch sewing machine of the kind set forth, the arrangements
substantially as described whereby the reel-holder is lifted sufficiently off its studs
or supports to enable the loop of the upper thread to pass to the other side and be
gathered up into the work
9 In a lock-stitch sewing machine the arrangement of the cam T mounted and
secured on the rotary shaft M, rock beam T¹, and crank T, for imparting a to and
fro motion to the feed, in combination with a sleeve U adapted to form the
fulcrum on which the beam T' rocks, said sleeve being capable of being
adjusted longitudinally on the beam, whereby the to and fro motion of the feed
can be varied as required, substantially as described and shown on the drawings
10 The general combined arrangement and construction of parts forming my
improved two reel, lock-stitch, rotary oscillatory looper sewing machine, substantially
as described
Dated this 3rd day of February 1896
WM P THOMPSON & Co,
Of Liverpool, Manchester, Birmingham, and London, Patent Agents