IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ORNAMENTAL WOVEN FABRICS
Year: 1884

page_text: We HAROLD LEE Manufacturer and WILLIAM HOLLAS Pattern Designer both of
Bolton in the County of Lancaster do hereby declare the nature of our invention
for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ORNAMENTAL WOVEN FABRICS" to
be as follows :-
:-
This invention relates to the ornamentation of woven fabrics by figures of
suitable size shape and colour upon a ground of muslin or other textile fabric, the
object of our invention being to produce piled or plush figures upon fabrics in a
much more economical manner than heretofore and by a different method of
weaving whereby the cutting of the pile by hand is altogether dispensed with.
In carrying out our invention we use either the warp or the weſt, (or both warp
and weft in combination) to form the pile figures. Where the figures are made of
weft and are required to be different in color or material from each other or from the
body of the cloth or ground, we employ two or more shuttles one or more for the
ground or cloth weft and one or more for the pile weft. Where the figures are
made of the warp we draw in the reed, in a line where the figures are to appear; a
suitable number of ends to form the pile figures. Where the pile figures are made
of warp and weft combined both the above methods are worked together.
To form detached weft pile figures we weave at certain intervals a number
of picks of the pile weft binding them in at the points where the figures are
to appear and floating them over the face of the cloth wherever the ground work
is to appear, but putting in at intervals a suitable number of the ground weft picks
to bind the fabric together and "cramming" or retarding the taking up of the
cloth at the lines where the figures are woven in, so as to present as nearly as
possible a uniform appearance on the ground work. To form detached pile figures
from the warp, we draw in a sufficient number of extra warp threads or ends at
certain intervals in the reed which ends we bind down wherever we want the pile
to appear.
To form " trailing" or "allover" patterns we use either the warp or weft evenly
or otherwise, as required to form the pattern. For the pile weft we use what is
known as the "fast pile tie-up" and the binding in of the pile weft commences
under different warp ends at each pick so that when the fabric thus woven is

page_text: passed through a shearing or cropping machine the long floats of weft are cut
away from the face of the cloth leaving short ends standing erect which form solid
pile or plush figures.
For the pile warp we also use what is known as the "fast pile tie up," and the
binding in of the pile warp commences under different picks of weft at each end so
that when the fabric thus woven is passed through a shearing or cropping machine
the long floats of yarn are cut away from the face leaving short ends which form
solid piled or plush figures as before.
In pile figures made by warp and weft combined we use both of the above
methods together.
It will be seen that by these means we produce very economically a cloth
ornamented with pile figures, without the necessity for the ordinary process of
severing the pile by a cutter's knife, and thus pile figures may be produced at very
much greater distances apart than would be possible had the pile to be cut along
races by hand in the ordinary manner and a great peculiarity of this pile is that,
instead of being formed by the two ends of a short loop or float simply severed by
a hand knife as is the case in ordinary piled fabrics the pile in this case is formed
of the two ends of the long loop or float, the central portion of this long loop or
float being cut away and entirely removed from the face of the cloth by the
shearing or cropping machine, leaving the two short ends only to form the pile
figures.
GEORGE DAVIES,
Agent for the Applicants,
4, St. Ann's Square, Manchester.

page_text: We HAROLD LEE Manufacturer and WILLIAM HOLLAS Pattern Designer both of
Bolton in the County of Lancaster do hereby declare the nature of our invention
for IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ORNAMENTAL WOVEN FABRICS and
in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement:-
This invention relates to the ornamentation of woven fabrics by figures of
suitable size shape and colour upon a ground of muslin or other textile fabrics the
object of our invention being to produce piled or plush figures upon fabrics in a
much more economical manner than heretofore and by a different method of
weaving whereby the cutting of the pile by hand is altogether dispensed with.
In carrying out our invention we use either the warp or the weft (or both warp,
and weft, in combination) to form the pile figures. Where the figures are made of
weft and are required to be different in colour or material from each other or from
the body or ground of the cloth or from both, we employ two or more shuttles, one
or more for the ground or cloth weft and one or more for the pile weft.
Where the figures are made of the warp we draw in the reed in a line where the
figures are to appear a suitable number of ends to form the pile figures. Where the
pile figures are made of warp and weft combined both the above methods are
worked together.
To form detached weft pile figures we weave at certain intervals a number of
picks of the pile weft binding them in at the points where the figures are to appear
and floating them over the face of the cloth wherever the ground work is to appear,
but putting in at intervals a suitable number of the ground weft picks to bind the
fabric together and "cramming or retarding the taking up of the cloth at the
lines where the figures are woven in, so as to present as nearly as possible a uniform
appearance on the ground work.
"
To form detached pile figures from the warp we draw in a sufficient number of
extra warp threads or ends at certain intervals in the reed which ends we bind
down wherever we want the pile to appear.
To form "trailing" or "allover" patterns we use either the warp or weft evenly
or otherwise, as required to form the pattern. For the pile weft we use what is
known as the "fast pile tie up" and the binding in of the pile weft commences
under different warp ends at each pick so that when the fabric thus woven is
passed through a shearing or cropping machine the long floats of weft are cut
away from the face of the cloth leaving short ends standing erect which form solid
pile or plush figures.
For the pile warp we also use what is known as the "fast pile tie-up" and the
binding in of the pile warp commences under different picks of weft at each end so
that when the fabric thus woven is passed through a shearing or cropping machine
the long floats of yarn are cut away from the face leaving short ends which form
solid piled or plush figures as before.

page_text: In pile figures made by warp and weft combined we use both of the above
methods together.
46
It will be seen that by these means we produce very economically a cloth
ornamented with piled figures without the necessity for the ordinary process of
severing the pile by a cutters knife, and thus pile figures may be produced at very
much greater distances apart than would be possible had the pile to be cut along
races" by hand in the ordinary manner and a great peculiarity of this pile is that
instead of being formed by the two ends of a short loop or float simply severed by
a hand knife as is the case in ordinary piled fabrics the pile in this case is formed
of the two ends of the long loop or float, the central portion of this long loop or
float being cut away and entirely removed from the face of the cloth by the
shearing or cropping machine having the two short ends only to form the pile
figures.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what
we claim is
First the manufacture of ornamental woven figured pile fabrics by binding the
weft or warp pile threads (or both) in with the ground or back of the fabric at the
points where the figures are to appear and floating the same from one figure to
the other over the face of the fabric where the back or ground is to appear, and
then removing these floated portions or long loops by cropping or shearing the
surface so as to leave the piled figures thereon, substantially as hereinbefore
particularly described and
Secondly we claim as a new manufacture ornamental figured piled fabrics woven
and cropped or shorn in the manner herein before described.