IMPROVEMENTS IN GAITERS, BOOTS, AND SHOES, AND IN APPARATUS FOR CRIMPING THE SAME
Year: 1877

page_text: "
LETTERS PATENT to William Robert Lake, of the Firm of Haseltine, Lake, &
Co., Patent Agents, Southampton Buildings, London, for the Invention of
IMPROVEMENTS IN GAITERS, BOOTS, AND SHOES, AND IN APPARATUS FOR
CRIMPING THE SAME." A communication from abroad by the Philipp Fischer
Shoe Company (Incorporated), of New York, United States of America.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Robert Lake at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 5th November 1877.
WILLIAM ROBERT LAKE, of the Firm of Haseltine, Lake, & Co., Patent Agents,
Southampton Buildings, London. "IMPROVEMENTS IN GAITERS, BOOTS, AND SHOES,
AND IN APPARATUS FOR CRIMPING THE SAME." [A communication from abroad by
the Philipp Fischer Shoe Company (Incorporated), of New York, United States of
America.]
This Invention relates to improvements in gaiters, boots, and shoes, and apparatus
for crimping the same.
According to the said Invention I make a gaiter, boot, or shoe with but a single
seam, which is so located as to be on the inner side of the foot when the gaiter, boot,
or shoe is worn. Gaiters, boots, or shoes of this construction may have the quarter
vamp, leg, and button piece all formed from one piece of leather, or the vamp and
quarter from one piece of leather, with the top from a separate piece of leather, and
stitched on; or the vamp, quarter, and leg may be formed from one piece of leather,
with a button fly suitably crimped and stitched on, but in all these several con-
structions there exists but one seam in the vamp, which seam, as above stated, is so
located or formed as to be on the inner side of the foot of the wearer.
The leg and button flies of my improved gaiters, boots, and shoes are crimped to
fit the instep and back of the leg of the wearer. The apparatus or tools for producing
Price 6d1

page_text: this comprise a block, to which is fixed an iron frame, and through the latter pass
one or more thumbscrews provided with clamps.
One pattern is used in the manufacture of this class of boots or shoes. In this
pattern one part is intended to form the vamp, another the leg, and another the
button piece; the button piece is situated on the, side opposite to the vamp, and
consequently on one end of the pattern. By arranging the button piece in this
position I am enabled to so cut the same that it requires but very little crimping,
and that for the purpose of crimping a small excess of material can be left to afford
a hold for the crimping tools; and, furthermore, when the said gaiter is finished, the
button piece is situated on the outside, while the seam is situated on the inside, and
extends over the soft hollow portion of the foot, where it is least liable to produce
irritation.
Instead of so cutting the upper as to form a fly, the fly portion may be omitted,
and a button fly may be stitched on the upper, which fly is buttoned on each side
of the top, or the upper may be so cut that the leg is not formed from the same
material as is the upper, but it may be formed of a different material, such as kid,
and may be stitched on the upper, but in all these modifications the vamp has but
a single seam, and that is located on the inner side of the gaiter, boot, or shoe.
To make the rear part of the leg and instep conform to the foot of the wearer they
are folded around a block, and retained in the folded position by tacks or otherwise,
the leather having been moistened. The clamps, with thumbscrews attached thereto,
are tightly clamped to the leather on the opposite side to that which is to be crimped,
and upon turning the said thumbscrews the leather attached to the said block is
caused. to conform to the block, which conformation it retains when the leather
becomes dry. To more readily effect this purpose the frame of the crimping tool is
secured to the said block; this crimping process is essential for the reason that by
my.method of constructing boots, shoes, and gaiters the absence of seams precludes
the possibility of cutting the several parts to a shape which would fit the rear part
of the leg and instep, so that the crimping or stretching process becomes necessary to
give form to such parts.

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block, which conformation it retains when the leather becomes dry. To more readily
effect this result the frame h of the crimping tool is secured to the block B (as shown
at i, Figure 9), or in any other desirable manner; this crimping process is essential
for the reason that by this improved method of constructing boots, shoes, and gaiters,
the absence of seams precludes the possibility of cutting the several parts to a shape
which would fit the rear part of the leg and the instep, so that the crimping or
stretching process becomes necessary to give form to such parts.
Having thus fully described the said Invention as communicated to me by my
foreign correspondents, and the manner of performing the same, I wish it understood
that I claim,-
First. A button gaiter consisting of two parts, the one forming the vamp and
quarters, and the other the leg portion and button flap, the two parts being formed
as described, and so united to each other that in the finished shoe the button flap is
on the outside, and the seam of the vamp on the inner side of the foot.
Second. In a button shoe or gaiter, with the vamp, leg, and quarter constructed
from a single piece of leather, and with a single seam located on the inside of the
same a button fly e stitched thereon.
Third. In combination with a crimping block a metallic frame so constructed as
to be attached to the block, and provided with one or more adjusting screws and
clamping jaws, as and for the purpose set forth.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Robert Lake, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Fourteenth day of May, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and seventy-eight.
w". ROB. LAKE. (L.S.)