Improvements in and relating to the Manufacture of Fez Hats.
Year: 1899

page_text: Date of Application, 24th Oct., 1899
Complete Specification Left, 16th July, 1900-Accepted, 24th Oct., 1900
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in and relating to the Manufacture of Fez Hats.
I, HEINRICH BUBAK, Professor at the Technical Middle-College, Serajewo,
Bosnia, in the Austro-Hungarian Empire, do hereby declare the nature of this
invention to be as follows:-
The present invention relates to improvements in and relating to fez which
essentially retains the usual shape and colour of the ordinary fez and may be
made in all the marketable dimensions and colours.
A fez made according to my invention, which I denominate
produced of thin but stiff hair or wool felt.
"chairi' is
The internal edge fitting the head is provided with a thin flexible band of steel
or other metal. In connection however with cheap kinds of fez, wood, celluloid,
impregnated paper or a similar material may be employed as a band.
In order to admit free admission of the air to the interior of the. fez, a corru-
gated strip of cork fabric or similar material is attached to the inside of the
aforesaid band.
To the smooth side of this corrugated strip which faces the head, a strip of
leather, fabric, wool or the like is secured similarly to the band of ordinary
summer hats.
In order to admit a free air circulation, the fez-cover is perforated around the
tassel socket in the cheaper kinds, the superior kinds are provided with a hollow,
perforated ventilation knob made of the same colour as the fez, and provided
centrally with a hollow for the reception of the tassel socket.
Exit of the air from the fez can be obtained by making the tassel socket
hollow and providing it with a small tube of stiff or elastic material; the lower
side of the tassel socket facing the fez cover as well as the tube contained in
same is provided with one or more openings which permits the exit of the air.
The exit or circulation of the air in the fez can be prevented by closing the
opening in the fez-cover, the fez can then advantageously be worn even in the
cooler seasons.
The essential feature of my invention is the employment of stiff hair or wool
felt for manufacturing fez hats and the application of the aforesaid ventilation
devices in connection with a stiff felt fez.
Dated the 24th day of October 1899
PHILLIPS & LEIGH,
Agents for the Applicant.

page_text: I, HEINRICH BUBAK, Professor of the Technical School in Serajewo, Bosnia,
in the Austrian Empire, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in
what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascer-
tained in and by the following statement:-
-
Fezes, as hitherto constructed, have been manufactured by a knitting or
weaving process, and leave the manufactory before they have completely acquired
their ultimate form and shape, being subsequently blocked by the customers or
by the retail dealer.
The process of blocking has to be repeated at frequent intervals, as the material
only retains its shape for a short time.
The manufacture of the substance of the fez is carried out in precisely the
same manner as in the case of ordinary hard hats. In woollen fezes the neces-
sary material (sheep's wool) is carded, matted and fullered, precisely as when
forming the body of an ordinary hat, and the body thus formed is moulded
or blocked on a suitable wooden form. The fez bodies thus made are rubbed
and then coloured.
Variation in the manufacture for the purpose of causing the colour or dye
to penetrate completely through the body of the fez consists in inserting it
directly into the dyeing bath directly after it has been fullered.
The dyed fez body is rendered stiff by means of shellac, traganth, starch or
similar substances and pressed in the mould by means of a lever press, after
which a slight lustre is imparted to it. The edge is then trimmed by a template
and the fez is then ready for garnishing. The manufacture of fezes from hare
or rabbit hair, the hair is first cleansed by a current of air from a suitable machine,
and is then carded matted and fullered and the resulting fez body moulded on
the block. All the other operations are the same as in the manufacture of
woollen fezes.
The trimmings and fittings are made as follows;
The rim a which is preferably made of thin sheet steel, is provided with a
number of small perforations to enable it to be attached to the fez on one side
and the ventilating band on the other when this latter is employed, the attach-
ments being made in such a way that they are not externally visible.
The perspiration band, as also the ribbed ventilating strip, which is made of
the best cork, are of the same conical form as the rim above described, and all
these parts must have the conical shape and fit into the fez itself.
The perspiration band is stitched on to the ventilation strip in the case of
fezes which are provided therewith, but when the ventilator is not used they
are then attached to the hard rim, in such a way that the stitches are, not
externally visible.
The thread employed must of course be of the same colour as the fez itself.
The ventilator in the crown of the fez is made as follows:-A disc preferably
of brass is provided with small holes round the edge for securing it to the fez
and a larger hole or holes in the middle over which a bent tube preferably of
thin sheet brass is attached by soldering or other means. The tube itself which
is made of thin. brass and indicated by the reference letter f in the drawing,
is bent hot in a flame.
To enable the tassel to be easily and quickly sewn on this tube is provided
with a small prolongation into which a plug of felt cloth or similar material
forming the end of the tassel is inserted. Both the little tube and this pro-
longation of the same are covered with cloth of the same colour as the fez.

page_text: The disc provided with the tube and covered in the manner described is
inserted through the hole in the crown of the fez and secured in position by
stitches as above described. All the metal parts are preferably nickel-plated.
The rim may also be provided with a ventilating appliance of ribbed material
of cork, felt, fabric, paper or the like, between the trimming of elastic material
and the perspiration-band. To enable the heated air to escape with facility,
the tassel attachment in the accompanying sheet of drawings, to which I
hereby refer, is constructed hollow, the flexible or stiff tube e being inserted
therein, and passing up and out through the cover. In the suitable spot f this
tube as also the tassel attachment may be broken through to enable the heated
air to escape.
The fez may also be provided with partial ventilation only, that is to say, the
upper ventilating arrangement in the top of the fez may be retained, while the
lower one between the trimming a and its perspiration-stripe may be omitted,
whereby the said perspiration-covering adheres closely to the aforesaid elastic
trimming, a.
Finally, the fez may be manufactured without any ventilating appliances,
in which case it is constructed with the elastic trimming under its perspiration-
strip, both of the ventilating appliances above described being omitted.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
claim is: -
1. A stiff fez, manufactured from stiff hair or woollen felt in such a way,
as to receive its shape in one operation substantially as described.
2. A stiff felt fez provided at its rim with an elastic trimming of metal, cellu-
loid-impregnated paper, fabric or the like material over which a strip of ribbed
material may be laid and the perspiration-band fixed upon it.
3. A stiff felt fez provided at its rim with an elastic trimming of metal,
celluloid impregnated paper, fabric or the like, over which is arranged a per-
spiration band.
4. In felt fezes the arrangement of a ventilating tube passing through the top
of the fez and through the tassel attachment, substantially as described.
Dated the 16th day of July 1900
PHILLIPS & LEIGH,
No. 22, Southampton Buildings, Chancery Lane, London, W.C.,
Agents for the Applicant.