Improvements in Lock-stitch Sewing-machines for Attaching Soles to Shoes or Boots.
Year: 1890

page_text: Date of Application, 7th June, 1890
Complete Specification Left. 18th Feb., 1891-Accepted; 25th Apr., 1891
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Lock-stitch Sewing-machines for Attaching Soles
to Shoes or Boots.
1, CHARLES HUELSER, of the firm of Huelser & Co., of 142, Fleet Street, in
the City of London, Solicitors of Patents, do hereby declare the nature of this
invention, which has been communicated to me from abroad by the firm of
A. Kuhnt & R. Deissler, of 38, Alexander Strasse, Berlin, in the Empire of
Germany, Civil Engineers, to be as follows :—
The improvements hereinafter described relate to lock-stitch sewing-machines for
attaching the soles to shoes or boots and have for their purpose to make up for a
deficiency of the sewing-machine described in the Specification to German Patent
Albrecht No. 38410.
The Albrecht machine is represented in Fig. 1. of the accompanying drawings
in order to allow it to be easily compared with the improved machine.
The Albrecht machine cannot be employed for sewing that part of the sole
which, forming a curve of concave shape, is to the left confined by the line ẞ of
Fig. 1, Sheet 11. The said machine attaches part a-13 of the sole to the welt 5,
Fig. 1 by stitching in the direction of $6. This operation is preceded by that
of another machine such as the well-known "Gros" machine, affixing the welt "5
to the inner sole 65 by means of stitches in the direction s 7.
This method of attaching the sole to the boot or shoe without introducing any
stitch through the inner sole into the interior of the boot or shoe, has hitherto not
met with general application, though it affords the great advantage of allowing the
last to remain within the shoe during the act of sewing thus ensuring a good shape
of shoe. The lack of popularity of this method is due to the above mentioned
deficiency of the Albrecht nachine which could not be employed for attaching the
part By of the sole to the welt 5, Fig. 1º
At this part of the shoe the thread-guide a Fig. 1, oscillating around its pivot W,
would enter into the last of the shoe; it was therefore necessary to remove the last
for introducing the stitches through the inner sole. Fig. 1. shows respectively the
lowest and the highest position of the thread-guide by dotted and full lines.
It is obvious, that this operation not only entails considerable loss of time but
also that an exact shaping will be impossible.
Figs. 2 and 3 represent the sewing-machine provided with the improvements in
question and Figs. 24 34 and 3 are details. The novelty essentially consists in
suspending the thread-guide, which formerly was made to oscillate about an
From the latter also the oscillating
auxiliary-shaft W, from the main shaft a.
thread-guide is moved by means of a disc u provided with an excentric groove in
which is guided the end of a curved lever v', the lower arm v of which is moveably
fixed by a stud or roller, and guiding a² to the thread-guide & a'.
By this alteration the following effect is attained:
While the hook needle c' penetrates vertically into sole s in the same manner as
described in the above mentioned German Patent No. 38410, the course of the
thread-guide is slightly displaced towards the oscillatory centre of the hook needle
in such a manner, as not only to enable the hook needle to easily catch the thread
but also to prevent the thread-guide a from entering the last even at that part of
the sole, where the latter forms a curve.
The other parts of the machine are the same as in German Patent No. 38410,
and may be varied in any suitable manner as being immaterial in producing the
effect of the improved machine.
Fig. 2 shows a modification of the mechanism for moving the thread-guide,

page_text: which consists in moving the arm. direct from lever by means of a connecting
rod. The thread-guide is moveably fixed to the pivot ³ of lever¹ and the
guide a² is curved as shewn by Fig. 24 for the purpose of allowing the thread-guide
to be moved in the same direction as is effected in Fig. 34 by the guide-block or
fork, influenced by spring z, Fig. 2 being a plan of the guide shewn in
Fig. 2.
Dated this 3rd day of June 1890.
HUELSER & Co.,
Agents for Applicant.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Lock-stitch Sewing-machines for Attaching Soles
to Shoes or Boots.
I, CHARLES HUELSER, of the firm of Huelser & Co., of Temple Chambers, in
the City of London, Solicitors of Patents, do hereby declare the nature of this
invention, a communication to me from abroad by the firm of A. Kuhnt. &
R. Deissler, of 38, Alexander Strasse, Berlin C., Germany, Civil Engineers, and
in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement :—
This invention relates to improvements in machines for attaching the soles to
boots and shoes and the invention consists in the details of construction set forth in
the following Specification and claims, and illustrated in the drawings filed with the
Provisional Specification in which like letters denote like or corresponding parts
throughout the several views.
Fig. 1 is a sectional side-elevation of the Albrecht machine, referred to in the
Provisional Specification.
Figs. 14 to 1 are detail representations.
Fig. 2 is a sectional side-elevation of a sewing machine embodying my invention.
Fig. 2 is a detail plan-view of a guide.
Fig. 3 is a side-elevation of a modification.
Figs. 34 and 3 are detail views of Fig. 3.
In the drawings, letter a indicates the driving shaft and is a shaft capable of
lengthwise motion. Said shaft supports the needle carrying head e having a
hooked needle c¹ and an awl carrying head d having an awl d. The heads c d are
oscillated or rocked by levers effulcrumed at W and actuated by grooves in the
cam-disk u.
The thread-guide or stitch tightening arm (Figs. 2 & 2^) has a roller ² for
the thread 1. Said arm is connected by a pivot to a lever or arm a fulcrumed
on driving shaft a. A link connects arm a to lever or arm a fulcrumed at W
and actuated by a suitable groove in the cam disc u. The movements of levers o¹¹
oscillate the thread-guide which serves at the same time for tightening the
stitches from the position shown in Fig. 2 in full lines to the position indicated
therein by broken lines and back again so as to properly take up the thread.
Thread-guide has a guide-roller A which runs in the guide or groove a². The
forward end of guide a² is slightly bent to one side as seen in Fig. 2, so that as
thread-guide a approaches the end of its forward stroke said arm is oscillated or
given a small side movement or lateral swing about pivot by the roller A running
into the inclined or bent part of groove a². This lateral movement of thread-
guide a brings thread 1 into engagement with needle c¹.
The lateral swing of thread-guide a about pivot causes the free end of said
thread-guide to describe a curve or part of a circle with pivot 23 as its centre so
that when the sewing takes place along a concave part such as the arch of the last
or concave part of the sole, thread-guide will not strike or chafe against the last
or shoe.
As seen in Fig. 2 the lateral swing of the free end of thread-guide x cuts
the vertical paths of the oscillating needle c and awl d..

page_text: In the modification shown in Fig. 3, link 2 is omitted and arm is provided
with an extension forming with said arm a bell crank lever. Arme is provided
with a roller engaging guide a² which in this modification is secured to lever ¹ to
which is connected thread-guide by pivot . Lever and thread-guide a swing
between the branches of fork g' said branches being somewhat inclined at their free
ends so that as the thread-guide a approaches the work, said thread-guide is swung
laterally against the resistance of spring :.
When the hooked needle c¹ penetrates sole s³ the thread-guide has been slightly
laterally displaced so as not only to enable the hook needle to easily catch the
thread but also to prevent the thread-guide from striking against the last or sole
even at those points where the last or sole forms a curve.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
:―
1. The combination with a vertically oscillating awl and a vertically oscillating
hooked needle of a thread-guide, a supporting arm a for said thread-guide, said
supporting arm being mounted on the main shaft, a pivot ³ made to connect the
arm and the thread-guide, an actuating lever connected to the thread-guide
and a cam or disc u on the main shaft for actuating the lever v³, substantially as
described.
2. The combination with a vertically oscillating awl and a vertically oscillating
hooked needle of a thread-guide a, a supporting arm a for said thread-guide, said
supporting arm being mounted on the main shaft, a pivot ³ made to connect the
arm and the thread-guide, an actuating lever v', a link made to connect the
lever and arm ar and a cam or disc u on the main shaft for actuating the lever v¹,.
substantially as described.
3. The combination with the vertically oscillating awl and a vertically oscillating
hooked needle, of a thread-guide a, a guide a² for said thread-guide, said guide
having an inclined portion for giving a lateral throw to the thread-guide, a
supporting arm a' for said thread-guide and an actuating lever » connected to said
thread-guide, substantially as described.
4. The combination with a vertically oscillating awl and a vertically oscillating
hooked needle of a thread-guide, an actuating lever for said thread-guide, a.
guide a made to connect the thread-guide with its actuating lever, and a fork g*
for giving a lateral throw to said thread-guide, substantially as described.
Dated this 18th day of February 1891
HUELSER & Co.,
Temple Chambers, London, Agents for Applicant.