Improvements in the Manufacture of Uppers for Boots and Shoes.
Year: 1896

page_text: ROVISIONAL SE
CIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Uppers for Boots and Shoes.
I, ALEXANDER MICHAEL BOLLINGER of 436 William Street, Williamsport
in the County of Lycoming and State of Pennsylvania, U.S.A., Boot and Shoe
Maker, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to boots and shoes mainly designed for cyclists. The
upper is formed from a single blank oblong in form with one end rounded to form
the vamp which is provided with a vent or gap, opening through the top edge of
the blank a short distance from the end of the vamp. The rear side of the vent
curves throughout its length from a point about midway of the edges of the vamp
and a short distance from its extremity and intersects with the top edge of the
blank at a point intermediate of its front end and the middle of the blank. A wing
exterior to the vent forms a side of the upper. A fly piece reinforced by facing
strips receive the fastenings, either eylets or studs. Another vent or gap in the
blank is provided to give the proper set to the upper portion of the shoe just above
the heel. The part formed in providing this vent is not detached and serves as a
stay for strengthening the back seam. The toe cap is formed with side wings and
facing strips. The shoe is finished in the usual way and the counter may be
applied to the inside or outside of the upper.
Dated this 26th day of September 1896.
THOMAS R. SHILLITO,
39 Chancery Lane, London, W.C., Agent for the Applicant.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Uppers for Boots and Shoes.
I, ALEXANDER MICHAEL BOLLINGER of 436 William Street, Williamsport,
in the County of Lycoming and State of Pennsylvania, U.S.A., Boot and Shoe
Maker, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement :-
This invention relates to boots and shoes mainly designed for cyclists, the object
being to provide a light, durable, close fitting and comfortable boot or shoe. The
upper is formed from a single blank especially designed to save material so that
a maximum number of blanks can be cut from a side.
The invention is illustrated in the accompanying drawing in which
Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a boot embodying the features of the invention.
Fig. 2 is a detail view of the boot blank.
Fig. 3 is a detail view shewing the blank folded and as it will appear prior to
soleing and heeling and applying the toe cap and facing to the fly.

page_text: Fig. 4 is a detail view of the combined toe cap and facing.
Fig. 5 is a detail view of the rear portion of the boot having the vent as seen
from the inner side.
The boot blank is oblong in form and one end is made rounding to form the
vamp 1 and is provided with a vent 2 which opens through the top edge of the
blank a short distance from the end of the vamp 1. The rear side of the vent 2
is formed on a line 3 which curves throughout its length from a point about
midway of the edges of the vamp 1 and a short distance from its extremity, and
intersects with the top edge of the blank at a point intermediate of its front end
and the middle of the blank. The front side of the vent 2 is formed by an ogee
line 4 which terminates a short distance from the front end of the line 3 leaving a
slit 5 extending from the point of intersection of the two lines 3 and 4 to receive
the opposite end 6 of the blank when giving to the latter the required shape, as
shewn most clearly in Fig. 3. The wing 7 exterior to the vent 2 forms a side of
the upper and is a continuation of the vamp 1, and its curved edge 4 is the
counterpart of the curved edge 8 of the lower opposite end of the blank, and these
edges 4 and 8 match and are secured together by stitching, and provide the side
seam of the completed boot. The edge 9 is formed on a curved line similar to the
line 3, and these parts 3 and 9 provide the fly and receive the fastenings, either
eyelets or studs, which receive the shoe lace, said fly being reinforced by facing
strips 10. The bottom edge 11 is curved slightly throughout its length, the curve
tending towards the top edge so as to give to the boot the proper set. The upper
or top edge 12 is formed on a line departing rapidly at its middle from a straight
line touching the extremities of the curved lines 3 and 9, thereby admitting of the
rear portion coming low down or terminating about opposite the ankle joint. In
order to give the proper set to the upper portion of the boot directly above the
heel, a vent 13 extends inward from the top edge 12 on a line corresponding with a
perpendicular line passing through the back of the boot, the sides of the vent 13
being oppositely curved so that when drawn together and stitched the upper
portion of the boot will conform and fit close about the ankle. By providing the
vent 13, the necessity for crimping the boot at this point is obviated, thereby
reducing the cost of manufacture. The portion formed in the provision of the
vent 13 is not detached from the blank and is utilized as a stay for the purpose of
strengthening the back seam. The part or stay 14 is of less width than the vent
and its edges are practically straight and in order to obtain a symmetrical
appearance the stay 14 tapers slightly towards its free end. The lower portion of
the stay is expanded and is formed by oppositely inclining slits. To form the boot
or shoe from a blank, cut substantially as described, the vamp is folded on the
dotted line a and the back on the dotted line b, and the edge portion 4 of the
wing 7 is brought over the edge portion 8 and stitched thereto, the end 6 entering
the slit 5, as most clearly indicated in Fig. 3. The edge portions of the vent 13
are drawn together either before the folding of the blank or after the same has
been stitched. The boot is finished in the usual way, and the counter may be
applied either to the inside or the outside of the upper as desired. After the edges
bordering upon the vent 13 are drawn together and stitched, the stitching extending
from the upper ends of the slits to the top edge of the boot, the stay 14 is fitted
over the back seam and is stitched along its edges to the boot upon opposite sides
of the seam, the edges of the expanded portion overlapping and being stitched to
the adjacent edges of the vent formed by the oppositely inclining slits. By having
the lower portion of the vent expanded by the provision of the oppositely extending
slits, wrinkling of the vamp is obviated and a smooth fit is had."
The toe cap or tip 15 is formed with side wings 16 and with facing strips 10, the
latter extending along the sides of the fly and stitched thereto and reinforcing the
parts to which the lacing eyelets and studs are applied. The side wings 16 protect
the sides of the vamp and are secured at their lower edges to the sole in the same
manner as the tip and the upper. By having the tip, side wings, and facing strips,
integrally formed seams are not rendered necessary, and the boot presents a light

page_text: and neat appearance, and welts, which would press into the foot are wholly done
away with,
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. A boot or shoe having its upper formed from a single blank having one end
rounded and adapted when folded to form the vamp, and having a vent from the
lower end of which extends a slit, and having the opposite end of the blank formed
on lines corresponding with the sides of the said vent, and having an intermediate
point which enters the aforesaid slit, corresponding sides or edges being secured
together by stitching to form the side seam, and the opposite edges forming the fly
which is supplied with the fastenings for the lace, and having the upper portion of
the blank formed with a vent whose edges are drawn together to shape the boot or
shoe about the ankle, substantially as described and shewn.
2. A boot or shoe having a vent in its rear portion above the heel and having an
integral stay formed by providing the vent, the edges of the vent being drawn
together and stitched, and the stay overlapping the seam and being stitched to the
boot or shoe on opposite sides thereof, substantially as described and shewn.
3. In a single piece boot or shoe, a blank having a vent in the rear portion a
short distance above the heel having its edges oppositely curved and communicating
with oppositely inclining slits, and a stay integral with the blank formed by
providing the vent and having its base portion expanded and of less width than the
vent, the edges forming the vent being drawn together and stitched, and the stay
overlapping the back seam and stitched along its edges throughout its length to
the edge portions forming the aforesaid vent, substantially as described and
shewn.
4. The combination with a boot or shoe having a fly, of a toe cap having side
wings to extend along the sides of the vamp, and formed with facing strips secured
to the portions forming the fly, the toe cap, side wings, and facing strips being
integrally formed, substantially as described and shewn."
Dated this 26th day of October 1896.
THOMAS R. SHILLITO,
89 Chancery Lane, London, W.C., Agent for the Applicant.