Improvements in the Garment-stiffener known as "Featherbone," and Method and Means for Manufacturing the same.
Year: 1896

page_text: Date of Application, 25th Feb., 1896
Complete Specification Left, 28th Sept., 1896-Accepted, 12th Dec., 1899
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Garment-stiffener known as "Featherbone,"
and Method and Means for Manufacturing the same.
I, CHESTER B. WEEKS, Manufacturer, residing in Paris, No. 208 Faubourg
St. Denis, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
My invention relates to improvements in "featherbone" and in the method of
manufacturing the same, and to improved apparatus for the purpose. "Featherbone"
is a fanciful name given to a corset stiffener consisting of cord formed of quills, or
quill splints or fibres, stripped of their feathers and bound together.
According to one construction the cords were wound together side by side to
form a broad, flat blade; then the flat blade was stitched through and this, with
winding it, gave it firmness and prevented it from becoming loose or falling apart.
But, in this construction, there would frequently be small projections formed
upon the blade or cord which would remain there constantly and a mere rolling
was insufficient to make the blade smooth and flat, and the blade, as thus con-
structed, was more liable to injury, for, when a thread became broken, as the
"featherbone" depended entirely upon winding to hold the fibres together, the
blade or cord was likely to become frayed in this way.
My invention has for its object improvements in "featherbone" and in the
method of manufacturing the same; to construct the same so that the blade shall
be smooth, and flat, and thin, and possess continuity in itself not depending entirely
on winding of the quill fibre to make the blade firm; and also to compact the
blade so that it will be more strong and springy, where such qualities are desired
to answer its purpose. I desire to state however, in some instances, it is not
desired to make the blade stiff and firm aud I only refer to this as a means of
constructing the same when it is desired to so manufacture the blades or cords of
"featherbone."
I accomplish these objects of my invention by the processes and method,
employing apparatus shown in the accompanying drawing, in which
Figure 1 shows the manner and apparatus for accomplishing the first two steps
of my process.
Fig. 2 shows an illustration of a device for accomplishing another two steps of
my process.
Fig. 3 is a detail elevation of two rollers adapted for use in my device.
Fig. 4 is a top plan view of a blade of "featherbone" manufactured by my
process. Fig. 5 is a side elevation of the same.
Fig. 6 is an end view showing actually and definitely the illustration of a blade
f my improved "featherbone" as manufactured by my improved process.
In the drawing, similar letters of reference refer to similar parts throughout the
everal views.
After the blades of "featherbone" have been formed by connecting together by
ross winding threads two or more cords of "featherbone" and then secured in
lace by threads passing lengthwise between the cords and through the braiding,.
s heretofore usual, I proceed to treat the same by first passing the strip of
eatherbone (which is constructed in a continuous strip as long as it will be
onvenient to handle) through a suitable sizing composed of glue and any other
itable constituents, which can be so various that an attempt at enumeration
ould be useless.

page_text: A long band of "featherbone" C is dipped into the box or trough A containing
sizing and passed into a drying room B which is heated in any suitable and con-
venient manner to dry the sized "featherbone" quickly and as dry as it is possible
to dry it by such means. The "featherbone" is then passed through the small
pipe D', which is inserted in the large steam pipe D, which is connected by the
pipes shown which permits of a continuous 'flow of steam around the smaller pipe.
This heating pipe in actual use is over 20 feet long, but the length of it is
immaterial so long as the strip of "featherbone" C, becomes thoroughly heated,
and a greater or less length than twenty feet may be used, as speed or other
circumstances may require. As soon as it is heated' in the pipe, it is passed out
immediately, before cooling, between the rollers E, E, E, E, which are made male
and female to receive the same and compress it into exactly the size strips desired.
One set of rollers can be used or more than one. In practice, several sets are used
and the strip passed through them continuously. The process of heating and
rolling can be repeated if desired, to produce an extra quality of "featberbone"
but for all ordinary purposes once heating and rolling, or calendering, is all that is
required.
;
1 desire to state that in practice it is found that the sizing causes the thread to
adhere to the fibres of the "featherbone" and also fills. up the small interstices
between the fibre of quills in the strip and, when the "featherbone" is properly
and thoroughly dried, it affords a composition: which unites very firmly with the
fibres of the "featherbone" and connects the thread very tight to it also. When
a strip of "feather bone" is passed through the heating tube, the heat is sufficient
to soften the sizing and also the substance of the quills and makes them pliable and
easy to bend and also makes them so soft that when they are bent in that condition
they retain their shape. They regain their elasticity in cooling. When they are
heated in this way and then passed through between the rollers of the right
dimension and size to compress all of the fibres, it. crowds .all very firmly into a
blade and thoroughly incorporates all the "featherbone" together so that it has
the appearance of forming a continuous blade or cord of the same material. The
fact that it is wound and. stitched does not..appear except on close inspection.
The parts all adhere firmly together and being subjected to the high temperature
of heated steam and then cooled, as they pass between the rollers, are in condition
to retain their shape until they are again subjected to the same high. temperature.
This temperature it will be readily understood is very much higher than the
temperature of the human body, the temperature being very near the boiling point,
from the fact that the pipe: D', is heated by live steam on. the outside.
I accomplish, by this method, the result long sought for in the. manufacture of
"featherbone" and have so perfected a superior article in the first place that, it
has much the same appearance as the article it is intended to supersede (whalebone)
and at the same time it possesses all of its own superior qualities; that is, it does
not split; it can be sewn through in any direction with indifference with no fear
of injuring the texture or quality of it. I desire to state that the steps of my
process can be considerably varied without departing from. my invention. It, is
not absolutely necessary to pass the strip of "featherbone "down into the trough
of sizing. The sizing can be applied in other ways. It would not be absolutely
necessary to have a special drying room for the featherbone "and if it is heated
in any other way to the required temperature and rolled, the same result, is
attained, though the exact apparatus I have shown is found to be the most effective.
The rollers E might be heated by any suitableineans and act very well, thus
dispensing with the heating pipe. The exact steps and method.I.show, however,
are superior.
ינית
..F.
WISE.HOWORTH,
46, Lincoln's. Inn. Fields, London, W.C., Agent for the Applicant.

page_text: Improvements in the Garment-stiffener known as "Featherbone,"
and Method and Means for Manufacturing the same.
1, CHESTER B. WEEKS, Manufacturer, residing in Paris, No. 208 Faubourg
St. Denis, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement :-
My invention relates to improvements in "featherbone" and in the method of
manufacturing the same, and to improved apparatus for the purpose. "Featherbone"
is a fanciful name given to a corset stiffener consisting of cord formed of quills, or
quill splints or fibres, stripped of their feathers and bound together.
According to one construction, the cords were wound together side by side to
form a broad, flat blade; then the flat blade was stitched through, and this,
with winding it, gave it firmness and prevented it from becoming loose or falling
apart. But, in this construction, there would frequently be small projections
formed upon the blade or cord which would remain there constantly and a mere
rolling was insufficient to make the blade smooth and flat, and the blade, as thus
constructed, was more liable to injury, for, when a thread became broken, as the
"featherbone" depended entirely upon winding to hold the fibers together, the blade
or cord was likely to become frayed in this way.
My invention has for its object improvements in "featherbone" and in the
method of manufacturing the same; to construct the same so that the blade shall
be smooth & flat and thin, and possess continuity in itself not depending entirely
on winding of the quill fiber to make the blade firm; and also to compact the
blade so that it will be more strong and springy, where such qualities are desired
to answer its purpose. I desire to state however, in some instances it is not
desired to make the blade stiff and firm and I only refer to this as a means of
constructing the same when it is desired to so manufacture the blades or cords
of "featherbone."
I accomplish these objects of my invention by the processes and method,
employing apparatus shown in the drawing annexed to my Provisional Specification,
in which:
Figure 1 shows the manner and apparatus for accomplishing the first two steps
of my process.
Fig. 2 shows an illustration of a device for accomplishing another two steps of
my process.
Fig. 3 is a detail elevation of two rollers adapted for use in my device.
Fig. 4 is a top plan view of a blade of "featherbone" manufactured by my
process. Fig. 5 is a side elevation of the same.
Fig. 6 is an end view showing actually and definitely the illustration of a
blade of my improved "featherbone" as manufactured by my improved process.
In the drawings similar letters of reference refer to similar parts throughout
the several views.
After the blades of "featherhone" have been wound and stitched as heretofore
usual, I proceed to treat the same by first passing the strip of "featherbone"
(which is constructed in a continuous strip as long as it will be convenient to
handle) through a suitable sizing composed of glue and any other suitable
constituents, which can be so various that an attempt at enumeration would be
useless.
A long band of "featherbone" C is dipped down into the box or trough A
containing sizing and passed into a drying room B which is heated in any suitable
and convenient manner to dry the sized featherbone quickly and as dry as it is

page_text: possible to dry it by such means. The "featherbone" is then passed through the
small pipe D', which is inserted in the large steam pipe D, which is connected by
the pipes shown which permits of a continuous flow of steam around the smaller
pipe. This heating pipe in actual use is over 20 feet long, but the length of it
is immaterial so long as the strip of "featherbone" C, becomes thoroughly heated,
and a greater or less length than 20 feet may be used, as speed or other circum-
stances may require. As soon as it is heated in the pipe, it is passed out
immediately, before cooling between the rollers E, E, E, E, which are made male
and female to receive the same and compress it into exactly the size strips desired.
One set of rollers can be used or more than one. In practice, several sets are used
and the strip passed through them continuously. The process of heating and
rolling can be repeated, if desired to produce an extra quality of "featherbone";
but for all ordinary purposes once heating and rolling, or calendering, is all that
is required.
I desire to state that, in practice, it is found that the sizing causes the thread
to adhere to the fibers of the "featherbone" and also fills up the small interstices
between the fiber of quills in the strip and, when the "featherbone" is properly
and thoroughly dried, it affords a composition which unites very firmly with the
fibers of the "featherbone" and connects the thread very tight to it also.
When
a strip of "featherbone" is passed through the heating tube, the heat is sufficient
to soften the sizing and also the substance of the quills and makes them pliable
and easy to bend and also makes them so soft that, when they are bent in that
condition they retain, their shape. They regain their elasticity in cooling. When
they are heated in this way and then passed through between the rollers of the
right dimension and size to compress all of the fibers, it crowds all very firmly
into a blade and thoroughly incorporates all the "featherbone" together so that it
has the appearance of forming a continuous. blade or cord of the same material.
The fact that it is wound and stitched does not appear except on close inspection.
The parts all adhere firmly together and being subjected to the high temperature
of heated steam and then cooled, as they pass between the rollers, are in condition
to retain their shape until they are again subjected to the same high temperature.
This temperature it will be readily understood is very much higher than the
temperature of the human body, the temperature being very near the boiling
point, from the fact that the pipe D' is heated by live steam on the outside.
I accomplish, by this method, the result long sought for in the manufacture of
"featherboue" and have so perfected a superior article in the first place that it has
much the same appearance as the article which it is intended to supersede (whalebone)
and at the same time it possesses all of its own superior qualities; that is, it does not
split; it can be sewn through in any direction with indifference with no fear of
injuring the texture or quality of it.
33
I desire to state that the steps of my process can be considerably varied without
departing from my invention. It is not absolutely necessary to pass the strip of
"featherbone down into the trough of sizing. The sizing can be applied in
other ways.
It would not be absolutely necessary to have a special drying room for
the "featherbone" and if it is heated in any other way to the required temperature
and rolled, the same result is attained, though the exact apparatus I have shown is
found to be the most effective. The rollers Emight be heated by any suitable means
and act very well, thus dispensing with the heating pipe. The exact steps and
method I show, however, are superior.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be perforined, I declare that what I
claim is :
1. A process in manufacturing "featherbone" consisting in sizing, drying,
heating, and rolling and compressing to form while hot successively, as specified.
2. A process in manufacturing featherbone" consisting in treating the wound
and, stitched blade by sizing the same, drying it, heating it, to a point which shill

page_text: soften the fiber of the quill, and rolling and compressing the same into forms required,
for the purpose specified.
3. A process in manufacturing "featherbone" consisting in passing the strip
through a tank of sizing into a drying room and, when thoroughly dried, passing
the strip through a pipe heated by steam (on the outside) and compressing the saine
between rollers made male and female to press the same to appropriate form, for
the purpose specified.
4. A process in manufacturing "featherbone" consisting in passing the strip
composed of the fiber of the quills of feathers through a sizing, drying the same,
heating the same to such a temperature as to soften the substance of the quill and
compressing the same, while soft, into form, for the purpose specified.
5. The process in manufacturing "featherbone" consisting in treating the blade
or cord composed of the strips of quills of feathers by passing it into a heating
chamber and heating the same sufficiently to soften the substance of the quills and
then compressing the same into the forms required.
6. A process in manufacturing "featherbone" consisting in treating the blade or
cord compessed of the fiber of feathers by sizing the same, heating it and compressing
or rolling it into the forms required as specified.
7. A process in manufacturing "featherbone" consisting in heating the blade
composed of the fiber of feathers until the substance thereof is softened and shaping
the same into the form required, as specified.
8. In apparatus for manufacturing "featherbone" a sizing tank, a drying chamber,
a heating chamber, and compressing rollers arranged in succession for passing the
cord or blade through to finish and form the same, as specified.
9. As an article of manufacture, the composite blade composed of the fiber of the
quills of feathers incorporated together by suitable means treated with sizing, dried,
heated to soften the fiber of the quills and pressed into compact form, substantially
as and for the purpose specified.
10. As an article of manufacture, the blade composed of the fibers of the quills
of feathers which are incorporated together and then heated to soften the fibers of
the quills and compressed into compact form to still further incorporate the fibers
together and give strength and quality to the blade, as.specified.
Dated this 28th day of September 1896
F. WISE HOWORTH,
46, Lincoln's Inn Fields, London, W.C., Agent for the Applicant.