IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF SCOTCH BONNETS, AND IN THE MACHINERY OR APPARATUS EMPLOYED THEREFOR.
Year: 1872

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Dalgliesh, of Kilmarnock, in the
County of Ayr, North Britain, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS
IN THE MANUFACTURE OF SCOTCH BONNETS, AND IN THE MACHINERY OR
APPARATUS EMPLOYED THEREFOR.
,,
the 6th March 1872.
I, WILLIAM DALGLISH, of Kilmarnock, in the County of Ayr, North
Britain, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention of "IM-
PROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF SCOTCH BONNETS, AND IN THE MACHINERY
OR APPARATUS EMPLOYED THEREFOR," to be as follows, that is to say :-

page_text: stocking frame" and the "jack," and in the employment of this com-
bination of mechanism for producing such bonnets.
"
"
The stitch by which the Scotch bonnet is manufactured is the same
as that used for the plain stocking stitch used in the manufacture of
stockings on the straight bar stocking frame. In applying the jack,
which is constructed with moveable or fixed points, a greater number of
needles can be operated at the same moment than obtains by using the
small plates or "ticklers" employed in the manufacture of stockings;
and it is further to be understood that small plates with a larger number
of "ticklers may be substituted for the "jack; this arrangement
however is not adapted for such rapid work. The Scotch bonnet is
manufactured on the stocking frame in one piece, which on being com-
pleted the outside edges thereof are milled together, so that the joint
which runs from the centre of the crown of the bonnet to the selvage
thereof is not distinguishable. The bonnet is moulded on the moulding
block, and when bound and lined is complete. In manufacturing a
Scotch bonnet in the combined stocking frame and jack the part com-
menced with is the lower selvage, which is of sufficient length to
correspond when the edges thereof are milled together with the size of
bonnet required, on completing which the bonnet is proceeded with in
rows in the same manner as in manufacturing a plain stitch stocking.
In constructing the crown of the bonnet the number of stitches in each
row are reduced by putting two stitches or loops upon one needle in a
decreasing ratio, according to the size of bonnet, until the final row con-
sists of only a few stitches, which form the centre of the crown of the
bonnet. Instead of reducing the stitches in the crown from the selvage,
as has been hitherto practised in knitting the bonnet by hand, these are
under this Invention reduced from the centre by putting two adjacent
stitches of any one row in one needle and knitting them together by
one stitch in the following row, as herein-before described, and so on in
successive rows until the requisite reduction in their number is
obtained; thus the selvage is maintained unbroken.

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, WILLIAM
DALGLIESH, of Kilmarnock, in the County of Ayr, North Britain, send
greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Sixth day of March, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-two, in the
35th year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and suc-
cessors, give and grant unto me, the said William Dalgliesh, Her
special license that I, the said William Dalgliesh, my executors,
administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said William
Dalgliesh, my executors, administrators, or assigns, should at any
time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times
thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might
make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an
Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF SCOTCH BONNETS,
AND IN THE MACHINERY OR APPARATUS EMPLOYED THEREFOR," upon the con-
dition (amongst others) that I, the said William Dalgliesh, by an instru-
ment in writing under my hand and seal, should particularly describe
and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner
the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the
Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and imme-
diately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said William Dalgliesh, do hereby
declare the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same
is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement, reference being had to the accompanying
Drawings, and to the letters and figures marked thereon, that is to
say:

page_text: bar stocking frame" and the "jack,"
combination of mechanism for producing such bonnets.
," and in the employment of this
The stitch by which the Scotch bonnet is manufactured is the same
as that used for the plain stocking stitch used in the manufacture of
stockings on the straight bar stocking frame. In applying the "jack,"
which is constructed with movable or fixed points, a greater number of
needles can be operated at the same moment than obtains by using the
small plates or "ticklers" employed in the manufacture of stockings;
and it is further to be understood that small plates with a larger number
of "ticklers" may be substituted for the "jack"; this arrangement how-
ever is not adapted for such rapid work. The Scotch bonnet is manu-
factured on the stocking frame in one piece, which on being completed
the outside edges thereof are milled together, so that the joint which
Funs from the centre of the crown of the bonnet to the selvedge thereof
is not distinguishable. The bonnet is moulded in the moulding block,
and when bound and lined is complete. In manufacturing a Scotch
bonnet in the combined stocking frame and "jack" the part commenced
with is the lower selvedge, which is of sufficient length to correspond
when the edges thereof are milled together with the size of bonnet
required, on completing which the bonnet is proceeded with in rows in
the same manner as in manufacturing a plain stitch stocking. In con-
structing the crown of the bonnet the number of stitches in each row
are reduced by putting two stitches or loops upon one needle in a
decreasing ratio, according to the size of bonnet, until the final row
consists of only a few stitches, which form the centre of the crown of
the bonnet. Instead of reducing the stitches in the crown from the
selvedge, as has been hitherto practised in knitting the bonnet by hand,
these are under this Invention reduced from the centre by putting two
adjacent stitches of any one row in one needle, and knitting them toge-
ther by one stitch in the following row, as herein-before described, and
so on in successive rows until the requisite reduction in their number is
obtained; thus the selvedge is maintained unbroken.
And in order that my said Invention may be properly understood I
now proceed more particularly to set forth the system, mode, or manner
in or under which the same is or may be used or practically carried into
effect, that is to say:
On the Sheet of Drawings hereunto appended Figure 1 is a front ele-

page_text: vation of a part of a straight bar stocking frame shewing one-half of
the "jack" applied thereto; Figure 2 is an end elevation of the same;
whilst Figure 3 is a plan of the "jack" alone, shewn as detached from.
the straight bar stocking frame. The arrangement of the "jack" used
in combination with the straight bar stocking frame in the manufacture
of Scotch bonnets, as shewn at Figures 1, 2, and 3, consists of a number
of movable points A, which are hinged at their rear extremities in a
framing B by means of a thick wire a, which passes through the framing B
and through a hole formed in the rear extremity of each of the movable
points A. Part of the framing B is constructed at an angle, as shewn
more particularly at Figure 2, for supporting the movable points A that
are not in use, which are shewn at Figures 1, 2, and 3, as turned back
and resting thereon. The framing B is carried on a horizontal bar C,
on which it is made to slide in a right or left handed direction. The
horizontal bar C is formed with a pin or stud bat each extremity, which
are situated when the "jack" is applied to the stocking frame in slots c,
more particularly shewn at Figure 2, formed at one extremity of arms
or brackets D, which are attached at their other extremities to the
under side of the straight needle bar E of the stocking frame. The
"jack" is provided with handles F and G respectively. By means of
the handle Fit is held by the operator whilst operating on the needles d
of the stocking frame; whilst by means of the handle G the movable
points A with the framing B can be actuated either in a right handed or left
handed direction on the horizontal bar C, as required. The handle G,
as shewn more particularly at Figure 3, is attached to one end of a
lever e, which is centred on a stud fcarried in a framing g attached to
the side of the horizontal bar C. The other end of the lever e is con-
nected by means of a link h to the framing B of the "jack; a
spring i, shewn at Figure 3, is attached at one end to the horizontal
bar C, whilst the other end projects into a rack k attached to the
framing B.
As the movable points are being actuated in a right or
left handed direction the projecting end of the spring i enters a fresh
notch or indentation in the rack k as the movable points A come
opposite other needles. The operator by counting the number of notches
or indentations entered by the projecting end of the spring i, can ascer-
tain the number of needles that he has passed when actuating the
movable points A in either a right or left handed direction. Situated at
the extremities of the horizontal bar C are adjustable arms or brackets H
(shewn at Figures 1 and 3), which are attached to the horizontal bar C
"

page_text: .
by bolts m, which are situated in slots / formed in the arms or brackets H.
The arms or brackets H can be adjusted closer together or wider apart
on the horizontal bar C by means of the slots 1, thereby preventing the
framing B with the movable points A from sliding further than is
necessary on the horizontal bar C. At Figure 4 is shewn a full-sized
front elevation of one of the small plates or "ticklers" employed in the
manufacture of stockings on the straight bar stocking frame. Figure 5
is a side elevation of the same. These small plates or
" ticklers" may
be used in combination with the "jack" herein-before described, or they
may be substituted for the "jack" in the manufacture of Scotch bonnets
on the straight bar stocking frame, and can be made with a greater
number of "ticklers" than shewn at Figure 4, but it is obvious that
this arrangement is not adapted for such rapid work as when using
the "jack" or the small plates or "ticklers" in combination with the
"jack."
The Scotch bonnet is manufactured on the straight bar stocking frame
in one piece, and the stitch employed is the same as that used for the
plain stocking stitch in the manufacture of stockings on the straight bar
stocking frame.
Figure 6 of the Drawings is a diagram shewing the form of the piece
as it leaves the stocking frame. The selvedge is shewn at x, the outside
edges y of the piece extending upwards, and terminating in a few
stitches at the upper extremity which forms the centre of the crown of
the bonnet. The outside edges y of the piece on being completed are
milled together, so that the joint which runs from the centre of the
crown of the bonnet to the selvedge thereof is not distinguishable.
Figure 7 of the Drawings is a diagram plan of a Scotch bonnet
shewing the position of the joint a running from the centre of the crown
of the bonnet to the selvedge. The bonnet is moulded in the moulding
block, and when bound and lined is complete.
"
In manufacturing a Scotch bonnet on the straight bar stocking frame
with the "jack" applied thereto, or with the small plates or "ticklers
only, the part commenced with is the selvedge, which is of sufficient
length to correspond, when the edges thereof are milled together, with
the size of bonnet required, on completing which the bonnet is proceeded
with in rows in the same manner as in manufacturing a plain stitch
stocking.

page_text: consists of only a few stitches, when form the centre of the crown of UC
bonnet.
Instead of reducing the stitches in the crown from the selvedge, as has
been hitherto practised in knitting the bonnet by hand, they are under
this Invention reduced from the centre by putting two adjacent stitches.
of any one row in one needle, and kitting them together by one stitch
in the following row as herein-before described, and so on in successive
rows until the requisite reduction in their number is obtained; thus the
selvedge is maintained unbroken. In lieu of commencing a Scotch
bonnet with the selvedge, and reducing as herein-before described and
illustrated on the appended Sheet of Drawings, the part commenced with
may be the centre of the crown of the bonnet, gradually widening the
work as it proceeds by forming new stitches on the stocking frame
until it reaches the proper width. The needles d of the straight bar
stocking frame are hinged on the needle bar E in a similar manner to
the movable points A of the "jack," and as the crown of the bonnet
is reduced fewer needles are consequently required. The spare needles
at each extremity of the needle bar E are turned up in the position of
the needle d', shewn at Figures 1 and 2 of the Drawings, to be out of
the way of the operator whilst operating on the central needles of the
stocking frame. The straight bar stocking frame herein-before referred
to may be actuated by steam or other power.
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of my
said Invention, and the system, mode, or manner in or under which the
same is or may be used or practically carried into effect, I would observe
in conclusion that what I consider novel and original, and therefore claim
as the Invention secured to me by the hercin-before in part recited
Letters Patent is,-
First. The combination of the " straight bar stocking frame" and
"jack," and the use or employment of the said combined machine with
or without small plates or "ticklers" in the manufacture of Scotch
bonnets, as herein-before described and illustrated on the appended Sheet
of Drawings.

page_text: **
Second. The combination of the straight bar stocking frame and
small plates or
ticklers," and the use or employment thereof in the
manufacture of Scotch bonnets, as herein-before described.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Dalgliesh, have here-
unto set my hand and seal, this Second day of September,
One thousand eight hundred and seventy-two.
WILLIAM DALGLIESH. (L.S.)