A Chemical Process for the Production of White or Coloured Crape-like Designs on Cotton, Linen, and other Fabrics or Yarns of Vegetable Origin.
Year: 1896

page_text: Date of Application, 18th Apr., 1896
Complete Specification Left, 12th Dec., 1896-Accepted, 16th Jan., 1897
TRUVIDIONAL SI DUIFICATION.
A Chemical Process for the Production of White or Coloured
Crape-like Designs on Cotton, Linen, and other Fabrics or Yarns
of Vegetable Origin.
1, JOSEPH WEISS, of 33 Brenzstrasse Heidenheim on the Brenz, Wurtemburg,
in the German Empire, Works Manager, do hereby declare the nature of this
invention to be as follows:-
The well known property possessed by concentrated caustic alkalies of con-
tracting or shrinking vegetable materials has been employed in various ways for
manufacturing fabrics or yarns which are partially or wholly crimped or provided
with crape-like patterns or designs.
One process for producing patterns of this kind on fabrics consists in first
covering certain parts of the stuff (which is of vegetable origin) with a resist-paste
and in then treating it with a concentrated alkaline solution which has no action
on the parts covered with the resist-paste. As resist-paste a gummy or gelatinous
mucilage of the fatty bodies, or of combinations of the fatty bodies or a resinous
solution, caoutchouc, gutta-percha or the like may be used.
This resist-paste acts, therefore, simply in a mechanical manner by preventing
the alkaline solution coming in contact with the parts of the fabric which are
covered by the said paste.
In another process it is stated that, instead of an alkaline solution, an acid bath
(sulphuric acid) can be employed and that the bath should have a temperature of
about 0° C. in order to allow it to act for a considerable time on the fabric. The
resist-paste is employed in the same manner as in the previous case.
According to another process the fabric before being treated with an alkaline
solution is printed with a coagulable substance such as albumen, caseine, or a
mixture of india-rubber with chromium salts. These substances also act only in a
mechanical manner, that is to say, they protect the printed portions of the fabric
from contact with the alkaline solution with which the fabric is afterwards treated.
The present invention differs essentially from these known processes in that the
fabric is first treated with an alkaline solution and that those parts of the fabric
which are to be crimped are not protected against the action of the alkaline
solution by a mechanically acting protective material but by a chemically acting
substance such as acids or suitable salts or oxides.
This process is carried out in one operation, that is to say, the neutralizing
substance is printed on the wet fabric impregnated with the alkaline solution in
such a manner that the said alkaline solution is neutralized before the contractile
action, which sets in after the lapse of a few seconds, has commenced at the parts
which are to receive the impression.
The operation is substantially as follows:-
1A. The fabric or yarn which is raw, white or evenly mordanted, evenly dyed or
previously printed is placed on a machine for printing in several colours and is
then impregnated by means of an engraved block-cylinder over its whole surface.
with a thickened or non-thickened 30°--50° B. solution of caustic soda and is at
the same time on the same machine printed in colours by means of one or several

page_text: successive rollers on which the crape-like effect to be produced is engraved, the
said colour being, for instance, composed of 1 litre of water and 600 grammes of
boitischgum or roasted starch with the addition of acids, such as, acetic acid,
tartaric acid, hydrochloric acid, which, partially, or, w wholly neutralize the caustic
soda and thereby prevent the action of the latter.
1B. Instead of adding acids to the colours suitable salts may be employed as
the neutralizing material, such for example as, aluminium sulphate, chloride of
magnesium, tin-salt or stannous chloride, perchloride of iron, acetate of aluminium,
acid chromates, acetate of chromium, lead nitrate and the like which by a double
reaction partially or wholly neutralize the caustic soda and thereby prevent the
action of the same on the parts of the fabric or yarn which are printed with the
neutralizing liquid.
Certain oxides, such as, aluminium hydrate, oxide of chromium, oxide of lead,
have the same action on the caustic solution as the acids.
After the impregnation by means of the blocks and the printing described in 1A
and 1B the material is either dried, or immersed directly in a water or acid bath
without drying so as to remove the caustic soda.
In this process as described in 1A and 1B raw, white evenly dyed or previously
printed fabric or yarn is treated so as to have a crape-like effect produced on it.
But by modifications of the process new crape-like effects in one or several colours
can be produced as follows:-
2. Some of the salts mentioned under 1B as neutralizing substances to be added
to the dye stuffs, such for instance, as acetate of chromium, possess coloured oxides
(green oxide of chromium) which are precipitated by the caustic soda in the fabric
and so produce directly coloured crape-like effects. From others of these salts,
such for instance as ferric chloride, the caustic soda precipitates oxides which
produce coloured double salts (ferric oxide with potassium ferrocyanide gives for
instance a blue colour) whereby further coloured crape effects can be produced.
If the fabric or yarn with the salts mentioned in 1B be passed through a sal
ammoniac (ammonium chloride) bath the corresponding oxides, such as for instance,
aluminium hydrate, are fixed and the caustic soda is neutralized. The oxides now
fixed in the fibres can be coloured in the usual manner, for instance alumina with
alizarin to produce a red colouration and stannic oxide with buckthorn berry to
produce yellow and so on.
3A. To enable basic dye stuffs, such as methylene blue to be used for the
production of crape-like effects on white ground, tannin is added to the colouring
matter which contains acetic acid as the neutralizing substance, the tannin is then
fixed by a salt of antimony and coloured with basic dye stuffs.
3B. If a fabric or yarn which has been treated with a 30°-50° B. solution of
caustic soda be printed with a colouring matter which has been treated with acetic
acid and which contains indigo salt of Kallé & Co. (the soluble bisulphite compound
of O-nitrophenyllacticketon) a blue effect is immediately produced by the partial
neutralization of the caustic solution by the acetic acid together with the sulphurous
acid derived from the bisulphite whereby the action of the caustic soda is stopped
and it forms indigo with the indigo salt.
3c. If indigo (in powder) be added to the dye stuff containing acetic acid and
then glucose and if the mixture be then printed on the fabric or yarn which has
been impregnated with a 30°-50° B. solution of caustic soda and the fabric or
yarn be then steamed, a blue crape effect is again produced, whilst the acids stop
the action of the caustic soda solution by partially neutralizing the same and the
indigo is simultaneously fixed by the said solution and the glucose.
3D. The fabric or yarn is then, as usual, impregnated with a- or ẞ-naphthol
sodium or other phenol sodium salts and dried. They are then treated with a
30° 50° B. solution of caustic soda and simultaneously with a dye stuff containing
acetic acid with addition of diazotised a- or ẞ-naphthylamine paranitroaniline,
tolidine or amidoazobenzol as well as other amido-compounds. By this means
coloured crape-like effects are produced on a white ground.

page_text: 3E. If the colouring material be treated with a substantive dye resisting acid
and alkalies, such as ericin, diamine blue, diamine yellow and if then the fabric or
yarn, which has been impregnated with a 30°-50° B. solution of caustic soda, is
printed with this dye a correspondingly coloured crape effect is directly obtained.
In order to obtain white crape effect on a coloured ground the process is modified
as follows:-
4. Oxides such as aluminium hydrate, oxide of chromium, stannic oxide or oxide
of lead or iron with or without the addition of glycerine are dissolved in the
30°-50° B. solution of caustic soda. In the case of iron oxide a solution of an
iron salt mixed with glycerine is obtained in the soda solution. The mixed solution
is then applied to the fabric or yarn to which at the same time a dye is applied
containing an acid, such as tartaric or citric acid. The oxides are then fixed by
means of a sal ammoniac (ammonium chloride) bath whereby a coloured ground is
directly obtained from the coloured oxide, for example a green ground from
chromium oxide; the coloured ground can also be obtained from oxides which
form coloured double salts such as for instance from iron a blue ground from
potassium ferrocyanide, from lead a yellow ground from chromates and so forth.
Such oxides, however, which form lake colours are coloured with the corresponding
dyes, for example alumina with alizarin to form a red ground, chromium with solid
violet (Durand, Huguenin Bâsle) to form a violet ground, and so forth.
5A. If fabric or yarn evenly dyed with indigo blue be treated with a 30°-50° B.
solution of caustic soda and then has applied to it thickenings containing acetic
acid with the addition of ferricyanide of potassium and is then washed a white or
light blue crape effect is obtained on a blue ground, the contracting action of the
soda solution being stopped by the action of the acid and the double reaction with
the ferricyanide of potassium, and the oxidizing action of this double reaction
decomposing the indigo.
5B. If fabric or yarn dyed with indigo blue and impregnated with a 30°-50° B.
solution of caustic soda be treated with dyes containing acid chromates, such as
acid potassium chromate and the said fabric or yarn be then passed through a bath
of hot sulphuric and oxalic acids a white crape effect is obtained, as the action of
the soda solution is stopped by the chromic acid of the acid chromate and the
indigo decomposed by the free chromic acid obtained in the acid bath.
6A. The fabric or yarn, impregnated with ẞ-naphthol-sodium and the like as
described in 3D are treated with a 30°-50° B. solution of caustic soda and then
with dyes with the addition of acids, such as for example hydrochloric or acetic
acid with stannous chloride, bisulphites, zinc powder or other reducing substances
which prevent the formation of diazo dyes. The fabric or yaru is then dyed with
diazotised amido compounds, such as for instance, chloride of naphthylamine. By
this means a white crape effect is obtained on a coloured ground, as the acids and
salts contained in the dye stop the contracting action of the soda solution and the
reducing salts at the same time prevent the formation of the diazo dyes.
6B. If alkali resisting substantive dyes such as ericin be dissolved in a 30°-50° B.
solution of caustic soda and then applied to a fabric or yarn and if the said yarn or
fabric is then treated with dye to which an acid such as acetic acid and a reducing
substance such as stannous chloride or powder of zinc are added, a white crape
effect is directly obtained on a coloured ground, as the acid present in the dye
stops the contracting action of the soda solution and the reducing substance in
.combination with the acid decomposes the dye in the caustic soda solution.
Dated the 10th day of Anril 1806
G. F. REDFERN & Co.,
4, South Street, Finsbury, London; Agents for the Applicant.

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
A Chemical Process for the Production of White or Coloured.
Crape-like Designs on Cotton, Linen, and other Fabrics or Yarns.
of Vegetable Origin.
I, JOSEPH WEISS, of 33, Brenzstrasse, Heidenheim on the Brenz, Wurtemburg,
in the German Empire, Works, Manager, do hereby declare the nature of this
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
The well known property possessed by concentrated caustic alkalies of contracting
or shrinking vegetable materials has been employed in various ways for. manu-
facturing fabrics or yarns which are partially or wholly crimped or provided with
crape-like patterns or designs.
One process for producing patterns of this kind on fabrics consists in first
covering certain parts of the stuff (which is of vegetable origin) with a resist-paste
and in then treating it with a concentrated alkaline solution which has no action on
the parts covered with the resist-paste. As resist-paste a gummy or gelatinous
mucilage of the fatty bodies, or of combinations of the fatty bodies or a resinous
solution, caoutchouc, gutta-percha or the like may be used.
This resist-paste acts, therefore, simply in a mechanical manner by preventing
the alkaline solution coming in contact with the parts of the fabric which are
covered by the said paste.
In another process it is stated that, instead of an alkaline solution, an acid bath
(sulphuric acid) can be employed and that the bath should have a temperature of
about 0° C. in order to allow it to act for a considerable time on the fabric.
resist-paste is employed in the same manner as in the previous case.
The
. According to another process the fabric before being treated with an alkaline
solution is printed with a coagulable substance such as albumen, caseine, or a
mixture of india-rubber with chromium salts. These substances also act only in a
mechanical manner, that is to say, they protect the printed portions of the fabric
from contact with the alkaline solution with which the fabric is afterwards
treated.
:
The present invention differs essentially from these known processes in that the
fabric is first treated with an alkaline solution and that those parts of the fabric
which are to be crimped are not protected against the action of the alkaline
solution by a mechanically acting protective material but by a chemically acting
substance such as acids or suitable salts or oxides.
This process is carried out in one operation, that is to say, the neutralizing
substance is printed on the wet fabric impregnated with the alkaline solution in
such a manner that the said alkaline solution is neutralized before the contractile
action, which sets in after the lapse of a few seconds, has commenced at the parts
which are to receive the impression.
The operation is substantially as follows:-
:
1A. The fabric or yarn which is raw, white or evenly mordanted, evenly dyed or
previously printed is placed on a machine for printing in several colours and is
then impregnated by means of an engraved block-cylinder over its whole surface
with a thickened or non-thickened 300-50° B. 'solution of caustic soda and is at
the same time on the same machine printed in colours by means of one or several
successive rollers on which the crape-like effect to be produced is engraved, the
said colour being, for instance, composed of 1 litre of water and 600 grammes of
British gum or roasted starch with the addition of acids, such as, acetic acid, tartaric

page_text: acid, hydrochloric acid, which partially or wholly neutralize the caustic soda and
thereby prevent the action of the latter.
1B. Instead of adding acids to the colours suitable salts may be employed as the
neutralizing material, such for example as, aluminium sulphate, chloride of
magnesium, tin-salt or stannous chloride, perchloride or iron, acetate of aluminium,
acid chromates, acetate of chromium, lead nitrate and the like which by a doublé
reaction partially or wholly neutralize the caustic soda and thereby prevent the
action of the same on the parts of the fabric or yarn which are printed with the
neutralizing liquid.
Certain oxides, such as, aluminium hydrate, oxide of chromium, oxide of lead,.
have the same action on the caustic solution as the acids.
After the impregnation by means of the blocks and the printing described in 1A
and 1B the material is either dried, or immersed directly in a water or acid bath.
without drying so as to remove the caustic soda.
In this process described in 1A and 1B raw, white, evenly dyed or previously
printed fabric or yarn is treated so as to have a crape-like effect produced on it.
But by modifications of the process new crape-like effects in one or several colours.
can be produced as follows:
2. Some of the salts mentioned under IB as neutralizing substances to be added
to the dye-stuffs, such for instance as acetaté of chromium, possess coloured oxides
(green oxide of chromium) which are precipitated by the caustic soda in the fabric
and so produce directly coloured crape-like effects. From others of these salts,
such for instance as ferric chloride, the caustic soda precipitates oxides, which
produce coloured double salts (ferric oxide with potassium ferro-cyanide gives for
instance a blue colour) whereby further coloured crape effects can be produced..
If the fabric or yarn with the salts mentioned in 1B be passed through a sal ammoniac
(ammonium chloride) bath the corresponding oxides, such as for instance, aluminium
hydrate, are fixed and the caustic soda is neutralized. The oxides now fixed in
the fibres can be coloured in the usual manner, for instance alumina with alizarin
to produce a red colouration and stannic oxide with buckthorn berry to produce.
yellow and so on.
3A. To enable basic dye stuffs, such as methylene blue to be used for the
production of crape-like effects on white ground tannin is added to the colouring
matter which contains acetic acid as the neutralizing substance, the tannin is then
fixed by a salt of antimony and coloured with basic dye stuffs.
3B. If a fabric or yarn which has been treated with a 30°-50° B. solution of
caustic soda be printed with a colouring matter which has been treated with acetic
acid and which contains indigo salt of Kallé & Co. (the soluble bisulphite com-
pound of O-nitrophenyllactic keton) a blue effect is immediately produced by the
partial neutralization of the caustic solution by the acetic acid together with the
sulphurous acid derived from the bisulphite whereby the action of the caustic soda
is stopped and it forms indigo with the indigo salt.
3c. If indigo (in powder) be added to the dye stuff containing acetic acid and
then glucose and if the mixture be then printed on the fabric or yarn which has
been impregnated with a 30°-50° B. solution of caustic soda and the fabric or
yarn be then steamed, a blue crape effect is again produced, whilst the acids
stop the action of the caustic soda solution by partially neutralizing the same and.
the indigo is simultaneously fixed by the said solution and the glucose.
3D. The fabric or yarn is then, as usual, impregnated with a- or 3-naphthol
sodium or other phenol sodium salts and dried. They are then treated with
a 30°-50° B. solution of caustic soda and simultaneously with a dye stuff containing
acetic acid with addition of diazotised a- or B-napthylamine, paranitroaniline,
tolidine or amid oazobenzol as well as other amido-compounds. By, this means.
coloured crape-like effects are produced on a white ground.
3E. If the colouring material be treated with a substantive dye resisting acids
and alkalies, such as ericin, diamine blue, diamine yellow and if then the fabric or
%
:

page_text: yarn, which has been impregnated with a 30°-50° B. solution of caustic soda is
printed with this dye a correspondingly coloured crape effect is directly obtained.
In order to obtain white crape effect ou a coloured ground the process is modified
as follows:-
4. Oxides such as aluminium hydrate, oxide of chromium, stannic oxide, or oxide
of lead or iron with or without the addition of glycerine are dissolved in the
300-50° B. solution of caustic soda. In the case of iron oxide a solution of an
iron salt mixed with glycerine is obtained in the soda solution. The mixed
solution is then applied to the fabric or yarn to which at the same time a dye is
applied containing an acid such as tartaric or citric acid. The oxides are then
fixed by means of a sal ammoniae (ammonium chloride) bath whereby a coloured
ground is directly obtained from the coloured oxide, for example a green ground
from chromium oxide; the coloured ground can also be obtained from oxides
which form coloured double salts, such as for instance from iron a blue ground
from potassium ferrocyanide, from lead a yellow ground from chromates and so
forth. Such oxides, however, which form lake colours are coloured. with the
corresponding dyes, for example, alumina with alizarin to form a red ground,
chromium with solid violet (Durand, Huguenin Basle) to form a violet ground,
and so forth.
5A. If fabric or yarn evenly dyed with indigo blue be treated with a 30°-50° B.
solution of caustic soda and then has applied to it thickenings containing acetic
acid with the addition of ferricyanide of potassium and is then washed a white or
light blue crape effect is obtained on a blue ground, the contracting action of the
soda solution being stopped by the action of the acid aud the double reaction with
the ferricyanide of potassium, and the oxidizing action of this double reaction
decomposing the indigo.
5B. If fabric or yarn dyed with indigo blue and impregnated with a 30°-50° B.
solution of caustic soda be treated with dyes containing acid chromates such as
acid potassium chromate and the said fabric or yarn be then passed through a bath
of hot sulphuric and oxalic acids a white crape effect is obtained, as the action of
the soda solution is stopped by the chromic acid of the acid chromate and the
indigo decomposed by the free chromic acid obtained in the acid bath.
6A. The fabric or yarn, impregnated with B-naphthol-sodium and the like as
described in 3D are treated with a 30°-50° B. solution of caustic soda and then
with dyes with the addition of acids such as for example hydrochloric or acetic
acid with stannous chloride, bisulphites, zinc powder or other reducing substances
which prevent the formation of diazo dyes. The fabric or yarn is then dyed with
diszotised amido compounds such as for instance chloride of naphthylamine. By
this means a white crape effect is obtained ou a coloured ground, as the acids and
salts contained in the dye stop the contracting action of the soda solution and the
reducing salts at the same time prevent the formation of the diazo dyes.
6B. If alkali resisting substantive dyes such as ericin be dissolved in a 30°-50° B.
solution of caustic soda and then applied to a fabric or yarn and if the said yarn
or fabric is then treated with dye to which an acid such as acetic acid and a
reducing substance such as stannous chloride or powder of zinc are added, a white
crape effect is directly obtained on a coloured ground, as the acid present in the
dye stops the contracting action of the soda solution and the reducing substance in
combination with 'the acid decomposes the dye in the caustic soda solution.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is :-
1. A process for the production of white or coloured crape-like patterns or
effects on cotton, linen or other fabric or yarn of vegetable, origin, such process
consisting in printing the wet fabric or yarn which has been impregnated with
a caustic alkali solution, so quickly with a neutralizing substance, such as an acid,
suitable salts or oxides with or without the addition of dye stuffs that the

page_text: caustic alkali is partially or completely neutralized before it has commenced to act
on the fabric or yarn at the printed parts, substantially as described.
2. In a process of the kind described in Clain 1 the employment of suitable salts
as neutralizing substances such for instance as acetate of aluminium, sulphate or
aluminium, chromium acetate and the like, the oxides of which can be fixed in the
fibres and coloured so as to obtain a coloured crape effect on white ground
substantially as described.
3. In a process of the kind described in Claim 1 the addition to the neutralizing
substance of tannin, which can be fixed so as to be coloured, of indigo salt, of
indigo with glucose, of diazotised amido-compounds on fabric impregnated with
naphthol, or of substantive dyes, for the purpose of obtaining coloured crape effects
on a white ground, substantially as described.
4. In a process of the kind described in Claim 1 the addition to the caustic
alkali of oxides soluble in alkaline solutions and simultaneously printing with acids
and then colouring the fixed oxides for the purpose of obtaining white crape effects
on a coloured ground substantially as described.
5. In a process of the kind described in Claim 1 the addition to the neutralizing
substance of potassium ferricyanide or of acid chromates for the purpose of
obtaining white crape effects on an indigo-blue ground substantially as described.
6. In a process of the kind described in Claim 1 the addition of reducing agents
to the neutralizing substance for azo dyes and of substantive dyes for the purpose
of obtaining white crape effects on a coloured ground.
Dis 10th day of Donombor 1996
G. F. REDFERN & Co.,
4, South Street, Finsbury, London, Agents for the Applicant.