IMPROVEMENTS IN EDGING MACHINES
Year: 1875

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Edward Gedge, of No. 11, Wellington
Street, Strand, in the County of Middlesex, Patent Agent, for the
Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN EDGING MACHINES."-A communication
from abroad by Emile Cornely, of Paris, France.
Scaled the 20th July 1875, and dated the 27th January 1875.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Edward Gedge
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition,
on the 27th January 1875.
I, WILLIAM Edward Gedge, of No. 11, Wellington Street, Strand,
in the County of Middlesex, Patent Agent, do hereby declare the
nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN EDGING MACHINES," a
communication to me from abroad by Emile Corncly, of Paris, France,
to be as follows: -
The object of my present Invention is a machine for making the
edging on such articles which are scolloped on their borders, such as
curtains, ladies' wearing apparel, table covers, etc., etc., and. where
ordinary binding is not employed, the edging made by the machine

page_text: being sufficiently strong so that the material can be cut out, and at the
same time being an ornamental stitch, as is required on the goods above
mentioned.
To effect this I employ two needles or needle hooks, which are either
fixed in one and the same needle bar or in two parallel needle bars set t
close together, and which stitch a ribbon on to the material to be edged
so that the needles or hooks will stitch into the edges of the ribbon and
sew the same to the material by means of two rows of chain stitches
which appear on the face of the ribbon. But to imitate fully the Swiss
edging I have invented a special ribbon, which is woven in such a
manner that the woof only shall be visible on its face, being made of
thick thread, while the warp consisting of thin threads shall be visible
but very faintly on the face of the edging, and the edging thus made
will have the appearance of two parallel chain stitches which arc
interlaced by thick transversal threads resembling in appearance the 1
Swiss edging made on curtains.
To guide the ribbon so that the needle hooks will always stitch into its
edges I conduct it by means of a guide which works in combination
with the universal feed motion of an embroidering machine, such as the
"Bonnaz" embroidering machine, and which will present the ribbon to
the needles in following all the sinuosities of the borders to be edged.
The mechanism which I have invented for the above purpose may be
employed in combination with any sewing or embroidering machine, but
presuming that it is adapted to the "Bonnaz" embroidering machine I
will describe it as such, and the general construction of the said machine :
being known I will only describe those parts of the mechanism which
I have modified in their construction and combination, as shown on the
accompanying two Sheets of Drawings, upon which a and b represent
the two needle bars, Figs. 1, 2, & 3, to which the hooks 1 & 2 are
secured; they are fixed within the central tube A of the machine, which
does not turn within the tube B, but is held rigidly be the driving bar
U, and the needles 1 & 2 do not change their position, although the
direction of the fced motion may change; C represents the nipple tube,
to which the double nipple D is secured; K represents the looper bar
provided with two eyes 3 & 4, through which the threads pass, and
each of which lays its thread around its respective needle hook when the
latter has arrived at its lowest position, the operation of the double
looper being effected in the following manner:-The pinion G has a

page_text: reciprocating oscillating motion imparted to it by means of the rack E,
rod H, and lever F; the looper plate K is actuated by means of the
crank pin 6, so that the two looper eyes 3 & 4 describe circles or
nearly circles around their respective needles; the other end of the looper
plate K is conducted in a rectilinear movement by means of the sleeve
L which slides on the rod M, and thus the two hooks 1 & 2 make two
parallel rows of chain stitches on the material.
The ribbon is conducted under the needle hooks by means of a guide
N, whose upper end is secured to the nut O, which in turning governs
the directions of the feed motion; it thus presents the ribbon always in
the direction of the feed and according to the sinuositics of the edging,
and as such edgings seldom comprise more than one-third of the cir-
cumference of the circle no intermediate gearings or other mechanism
are required for operating the guido N, as would be the case if the
machine had to do regular embroidering or braiding work, where it must
make an entire circle.
The spool S which carries the ribbon is set upon the spool holder R,
which is secured to the wheel P, but it may be secured to any other
suitable part of the machine.
U represents the circular foot, which is provided with an india-
rubber crown, and which is made sufficiently wide to encircle the nipple
and the end of the guide N. The ribbon T represented in red lines
passes from the spool S, over the guide roller d, into the guide N.
Figs. 5, 6, 7, & 8 are plans and sections of a new embroidering and
braiding disk which I employ on my braiding machine, described in a
former Patent. Z represents a circular plate, which covers the braiding
disk, and which I employ in place of the two straight slides described in
a former Patent; it is fixed in its position by means of the small slide g;
Y represents the circular embroidering plate, in which a smaller disk X
is embedded, and which is provided with a number of needle holes, any
of which can be brought in line with the needle by changing the position.
of the disk X upon the plate Y; the former is secured to the latter by
means of the screw W, and the plate Y is secured to the machine by
means of the slide g.
The two disks Y & Z can be exchanged on the machine as the

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said William Edward Gedge in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 23rd July 1875.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, WILLIAM
EDWARD GEDGE, of No. 11, Wellington Street, Strand, in the County
of Middlesex, Patent Agent, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-seventh day of January, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-five, in the
thirty-eighth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and suc-
cessors, give and grant unto me, the said William Edward Gedge, Her
special licence that I, the said William Edward Gedge, my executors,
administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said William Edward
Gedge, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time
agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter
during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make,
use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain
and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for
"IMPROVEMENTS IN EDGING MACHINES," a communication to me from abroad
by Emile Cornely, of Paris, France, upon the condition (amongst others)
that I, the said William Edward Gedge, my executors or administrators,
by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands
and scals, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the
said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed,
and cause the same to be filed in the Great Scal Patent Office within
six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said
Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said William Edward Gedge, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same
is to be nerformed to be nontioulasly deconibed and
Lainal

page_text: This result can be obtained by three different methods,―
1.) By presenting a braid or binding to the two needles so that each
needle may stitch the edge on to the material and thus secure a perfect
and solid edging which resembles the edging made by hand when the
braid employed is made in such a manner that the transversal threads
only are visible.
2.) By throwing a transversal thread below and above the cloth across
the the two needles or their threads after each stitch, and by thus inter-
lacing their two seams.
3.) By throwing a transversal thread after each stitch across the two
needles below the cloth, and by laying a thread around the needles or
their thread above the cloth by means of a continuously revolving thread
layer which revolves on the axis of the needle bar as its centre.
Although the mechanical combination above referred to, and which
will be described in this Specification, may equally well be adapted to
any system of sewing or embroidering machine, I find it advantageons
for edging work to apply them to a machine which has a universal feed
motion, such for instance as the "Bonnaz" embroidering machine,
whereby scolloped edging can be made without turning the material,
while for other work it may be more advantageous to apply my Inven-
tion to any of the known systems of sewing machines with the ordinary
straight feed.
I will now describe my Invention when it is employed with the
universal feed motion of the "Bonnaz" embroidering machine, the said
machine being known, its description need not be repeated here.
و"
Instead of one needle hook, which in the "Bonnaz embroidering
machine turns on its needle bar as the feed of the machine is changed,
I employ two needle hooks (7 and 8) which are secured to two needle
bars 9 and 10, and which latter are secured within the tube e, and do
not turn with the changeable feed of the machine, as shown in Figs. 1,
2, 3, and 8). The two needle hooks 7 and 8 pass through a double
nipple a, and in descending through the cloth receive their respective
threads from the double looper 1 and 2, Figs. 2, 3, and 8, and upon their
rising draw the threads through the material and lay their loops on it,
thus producing two parallel rows of chain stitches. The double looper
1 and 2 receives its oscillating motion from an eccentric on the main-

page_text: shaft of the machine, and by means of the lever A, rod B, rack C, and
pinion or pinions D.
When one pinion D only is employed an eccentric pin 3 imparts a
circular oscillating motion to the plate E, upon which the two eyelets
1 and 2 are secured, which thus in oscillating around the needle hooks
lay cach its thread around its respective needle, thus producing two
parallel scams. The end of the plate E is pivoted at F to the slide G,
and thus slides upon the guide rod H. When two pinions D, D, are
employed then the plate 6 is adjusted upon the two crank pins c of the
pinions D, Fig. 8, and the double looper eyelets 1 and 2 being secured to
the plate perform their oscillating motion around the needle hooks as
above described.
The guide rod M which presents the braid or lace to the needles is
secured to the universal feed and cam K of the machine; it is pivoted to
it at a by means of a lever 1, and can be raised or lowered by means of
said lever; it can also be turned on its hinge 4 to the position shown at
Fig. 7 for the purpose of passing the braid through its guide 5, which
being of semicircular shape, as shown at Fig. 6, fits closely around the
hipple a, and is turned around it when the feed cam K is turned by the
crank handle of the machine.
For making curved or scolloped edgings the feed cam K, as it is
turned by the crank handle of the operator, turns the braiding rod M
always in the direction of the feed and presents thus the braid to the
two needle hooks, so that each can stitch it on to the material at its edgo
and thus make a solid edging and binding, perfectly imitating the inter- 3
laced edging made by hand if the braid employed is made in such a
manner that the transversal threads only appear on its surface. The
braid passes from the spool N over the guide roller. O into the guide 5,
which with the nipple and needle are within the circular run of the feed
surface 6.
It will be observed that the edging guide M is limited in its turning
movement to one-third of a circle, which is sufficient for all practical
purposes for scolloped edging.
639
The second part of my Invention relates to a mechanism by which
two threads, one above and one below the cloth, are thrown across the 3

page_text: •
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stitches to make a solid edging. This mechanism is represented in
Figs. 10, 11, and 12, where I show it in combination with a "Bonnaz
embroidering machine, but it may be equally well applied to any two
needle sewing machine.
The nipple a, lever A, rod B, rack C, pinions D, and double looper
1 and 2, are the same as above described. After cach stitch of the two
needles a thread is thrown across their path above the cloth by means of
the oscillating thread carrier fin such a manner that it is alternately laid
once to the right and once to the left; in the same way a thread carrier g,
Figs. 11 and 12, lays a thread below the cloth across the path of the two
needles.
The two thread carriers are actuated in the following manner :-The
cog wheel P is driven by a pinion of half its size, which is secured to
the main shaft of the machine; the wheel P thus makes ono revolution
to every two revolutions of the machine. It drives the crank Q which
is secured to its shaft, and the pitman R which is pivoted at / to tho
toothed sector S, and thus turns it two-thirds of a revolution alternately
to the right and to the left at each revolution of the machine. The
sector S transmits its movement to the sector U and to the wheels T and
V, to which latter the thread carrier f is secured, and which thus lays a
transversal thread across the two needle hooks alternately to the right
and to the left, the thread passing from a spool into the eye of the
thread carric f near the cloth. The thread carrier below the cloth is
actuated in a similar manner by means of crank pin k, pitman 1, lever
m, n, rod o, rack p, and pinion 2, which imparts a circular oscillating
motion to the thread carrier g.
The third part of my Invention relates to a mechanism in which I
employ ordinary sewing machine needles and a shuttle in combination
with a continuously revolving thread carrier to obtain the same result as
above described. In Fig. 13, y and z represent the two needles of a
sewing machine; A' the shuttle playing in its shuttle race B'.
When the needles have commenced their ascensional movement the
shuttle passes through their two loops and thus carries its thread through
them.
G₁ represents a section of the frame of a sewing machine in which the
needle bar C plays in the ordinary manner. A sleeve x which is fitted
over the needle bar C₁ is secured to the frame G' so that the needle bar

page_text: can freely play within the same. A pinion E' is mounted upon the
sleeve x, and can freely turn thereon; it is sustained on it by means of
a collar 15. The thread carrier D¹ and the spool pin of spool H¹ aro
secured to the pinion E¹, and as the latter receives a continuously rotary
motion through the pinion K' from the main shaft of the machine it
follows that the thread carrier D' will lay its thread continuously around
the two needles y, z, or around their threads, and thus produce a very
fine edging, which interlaces the stitching of the two needles, and which
is firmly bound below by the shuttle thread. This machine may also be
employed in combination with the universal feed motion or with the
ordinary straight feed, as the shuttle and the two needles will operato
just as well with a universal feed as with the straight one.
The needles and the end of the thread carrier operate within the
circular ring-shaped feed surface a¹, and the thread passes from the
spool H' through the eye of thread carrier D³ as near the cloth as:
possible.
In taking out one of the needles y and z, and by sewing with one
needle only, the machine when employed without the use of the thread
carriers is reduced to an ordinary lock stitch machine, which may be
used for all descriptions of ordinary family and manufacturing work, and
when employed in combination with the universal feed a new lace
embroidering can be produced with it, when a thick thread is used in
the needle and a very fine one in the shuttle, whereby the said thick
thread only will appear when sewed on fine fabrics, such as lace and
tulle, thus producing an imitation lace on which the most intricate work?
can be produced by means of the universal feed.
Having now described and ascertained the nature of the Invention
communicated to me as aforesaid, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, I claim as secured to me by the herein-before in part recited
Letters Patent,—
Firstly. The combination of two needles and a double looper with
the two thread carriers, one above and one below the cloth, which lay
their threads transversely across the needles or their threads when used
with any known feeding mechanism of a sewing or embroidering
machine, substantially as herein described.
Secondly. In combination with a two needle shuttle machine the
revolving thread carrier for laying a thread around the two needles or

page_text: their threads when employed with any known feeding mechanism of a
sewing or embroidering machine, substantially as herein described.
Thirdly. In combination with a two needle machine of any description
an automatic braid carrier which presents the braid to said needles in
such a manner that they will stitch it to the material near its edges,
substantially as set forth.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Edward Gedge, have
hereunto set my hand and seal, this Twenty-third day of July,
in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-
fivc.