Improvements in the Weaving of Bordered Reversible Shawls and in Apparatus therefor.
Year: 1890

page_text: Date of Application, 6th June, 1890
Complete Specification Left, 27th Feb., 1891-Accepted, 23rd May, 1891
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Weaving of Bordered Reversible Shawls
and in Apparatus therefor.
EDWARD TURNER Operative Woollen Weaver Gladstone Buildings Marsden
near Huddersfield in the County of York do hereby declare the nature of this
invention to be as follows:-
I construct the heald operating pattern cylindrical saddle C to slide horizontaly
and crosswise of the jacks on a key D partly embeded in saddle shaft B the
saddle C to be so pined as to keep either ground or border wheels under the jacks
when rotating and applicable to the (Knowles fast loom).
I arrange or work the jacks of the (Knowles loom) every other from front of
loon as 1. 3. 5. 7. 9. 11. 13. 15. 17. 19. 21. 23. and so on. I also leave every other
jack space open for the border wheels of heald operating gear to pass through on
the basis of plan A when the ground portion of plan is in use as 2. 4. 6. 8. 10. 12.
14. 16. 18. 20. 22. 24. and so on when border is put on it frees the wheels of ground
as 1. 3. 5 and so on. I then peg or wheel the rods of the heald operating gear as
per plan A and on the assumption that crosses in black mean and belong to wheels
and where blank spaces in plan A occur it means and belongs to threading a jack
space on the rod with a collar to first level the jacks and raizeing the pin E and
drawing foward saddle C a jack space to change ground to border vica versa when
put back.
This improved system applies to the Knowles loom and the method of arrange-
ments in part to shawls that have each there own portion of ground healds and
border healds and are so drafted ground and edge bits warp on front 6 healds and
border warp on back 6 healds and all other reversible bordered patterns drafted to
be wove on the basis and analogy of plan A and interlaced in weaveing as to form a
shawl its ground and top edge bits and under border is one pattern or colour and
the under ground and edge bits and top border is alike in pattern but another
colour.
The machinal parts refered to and herein below described consists in haveing the
pattern cylindrical C. saddles which carry round the heald operating gears as
follows have the box saddle constructed with the saddle-shaft B as at presant
and from the box saddle to front end of shaft I reduce the shafts diameter to
and
of an inch or thereabouts and embed a key D about (8) eight but prefer it
12 inches long in the shaft and raized th but prefer th of an inch above its
surface the C saddle which carries round the heald operating gear 1 cast or
otherwise construct it to itself or apart from the shaft in the following manner
I form it as at presant length and shape except I add a bush at the end nearest the
driveing wheel pinion the bush has cut or turned in its surface two half circle
groves the said groves to be cut or turned a jack space apart a jack space means
from one jack to the next jack being the same distance as a jack take when
working ths of an inch or thereabouts I core or bore the saddle just named to fit
the shaft B easy and slot it so as to slide on key D embeded in shaft I work the
jack every other in or anent the spaces of plan A as 1. 3. 5. 7. 9. 11. 13. 15. 17. 19.
21. 23 and so on for ground leaveing open the jack spaces as 2. 4. 6. 8. 10. 12. 14.
16. 18. 20. 22. 24. and so on for the border wheels of the heald operating gear on
the basis of plan A to work through when the ground of plan A is in use when
pattern saddle C is drawn foward it liberates the ground wheels 1. 3. 5 and so on
and puts under the jacks border wheels as 2. 4. 6. 8 and so on this arrangement can
be rica versed on account of the shawls being reversible the bush of the heald
operating pattern saddle C receives a cotter or heavy headed pin E through the

page_text: neck F in which part of bush turns the pin haveing first passed through a hole
cored or bored in the arm which supports the above mentioned neck and tail end of
the jacks the before named bush the groves in which must be a jack space apart or
of an inch or thereabouts so as to allow the weaver to level his jacks and lift the
pin E and draw foward the saddle C above named a jack space which changes the
shawl pattern from ground to border and vica versa when put back.
I form the chain gear slides in sheet form it may also be necessary to alter the
arm above before named so as to allow the heald operating gear to pass freely
round when the saddle is drawn horizontaly foward and putting into use the border
portion of plan A.
I Edward Turner claime under this Provisional Protection subject to all
the conditions her Majesty and the law demand.
I claime the following among others the construction of the heald operating
pattern cylindrical saddle C to slide horizantly and crosswise of the jacks on a
key D partly embeded in saddle shaft B and pined so as to keep either ground or
border wheels under the jacks when rotateing and applicable to the Knowles
fast loom.
Secondly claime the arrangment of setting the jacks every other and the
peging or wheeling every other of ground and border and inserted one between the
other on the same rods or lags on the basis of plan A as applicable to Knowles and
other looms.
Thirdly I claime the (loom tuners wheeling plan A) which is worked out on the
assumption that X crosses in black mean and belong to wheels for the Knowles and
other fast looms and every blank in plan mean and belong to threading a jack
space on the rod with a tube or collar the wheels to be thread on the rods on the
basis of plan A.
Fourthly I claime the reverse basis of plan A that is vica versaing the plan A
and putting border where ground is in plan A and ground where border and
putting the heald operating saddle C backwards a jack space or of an inch or
thereabout.
June 5th in the year of our Lord 1890.
EDWARD TURNER.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Weaving of Bordered Reversible Shawls
and in Apparatus therefor.
EDWARD TURNER Operative Woollen Weaver Gladstone Buildings Marsden,
near Huddersfield, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in
and by the following statement :-
The machinal part of my invention consists in the construction of the pattern
cylindrical saddle C which has a bare half circle shell peice C¹ at back as shown in
drawings lodged with my Provisional Specification No. 8734" and adopted as those
of my Complete with two extra sheets as part thereof, to slide, horizontaly on the
saddle shaft B. and crosswise of the jacks, on a key D. embeded in shaft B. and
raised from th to th of an inch above its surface, the pattern saddle C. to be
bored and sloted see D' to fit, and slide, on shaft B. and key D. easy. The
saddle C to be kept in its position by pin É being put through the hole bored, in
arm which supports neck F. and through neck F. and pin E. within one or other of
the groves G¹ & G², in the bush C2 on receding side prefered, (secondly) is the
arrangements of loom jacks ever other to provide the accessory spaces and use
thereof to work border part of plan A through when ground part is in use, and
thirdly, is the arrangment of pattern crossbordering plan A. and its analogue with
both ground, and border parts of plan worked on the same or each and all the
(rods or lags).

page_text: The machinal parts refered to instead of shaft B and the pattern cylindrical
saddle being made in the solid as is now understood.
My invention consists partly in reducing the shaft B see Fig. 2 of Complete
drawings from the box saddle to front end of shaft B to and th of an inch or
thereabouts and cast a bare half circle shell peice I or secure the said shell peice
to shaft B by screws "H" see Fig. 1 of Provisional drawings and Fig. 7 of the
Complete the back part of the aforesaid shaft and marked B' from the shoulder
marked in Fig. 1 of. Provisional and B at Fig. 2 in the Complete made of inch
longer than at presant, and receives the back (neck or neck bearing) similar to that
marked F. in Fig. 1 of Provisional and Fig. 3 in Complete between the shoulder B*
and pin hole B2 which receives pin B3 at Fig. 8 of the Complete which serves to
keep shaft B from moveing crosswise yet allowing the shaft to turn and make its
circuit the reduced part of the aforesaid shaft has a key D about 12 inches long
(forged cast or embeded) see Fig. 2 of Complete and raised about th of an inch
above the shafts surface. I next cast or construct pattern cylindrical saddle C
shown at Fig. 1 of Provisional and Fig. 4 of the Complete drawings with its bare
half circle shell peice marked C¹ to lock one way but interslide crosswise of the
jacks fowards ths of an inch or backwards a jackspace ths of an inch according
to wether the pattern plan A. or the "reverse basis of plan A." is in process of
weaving the bare halfcircle shell peice on shaft marked I in Fig. 2 of Complete
and designed to relieve key D. and to be so put in, to keep the harmony of saddle C
to box saddle, has is shown in Provisional drawings at Fig. 1. in the "bush C2" of
"saddle C" I cut or turn in or arround its circle two half circular groves Gi
and G2 th of an inch apart from centre to centre see Fig. 4 of Complete and
Fig. 1 of Provisional and the (strips or wings) marked C³ in Fig. 5 can be cast
with saddle C or put in the apartuers marked C cut to the line of bush C² in end
view at Fig. 6 of Complete the shaft and bush C2 of saddle C rotates in (necks or
neck bearings F) at Fig. 3 "and in the centre marked F1" when pin E is droped
down a similar hole to F2 (cored or bored) in the arm which supports neck Fas
well as the hole F² it passes through one or other of the groves 1 & 2 and locks the
the cross movement of saddle C the part of shaft B¹ turns in a (neck bearing F
but less in bore) the looms (slides or guides) I cover with a sheet of tin, and as the
looms vary slightly in space between saddle C and driving pinion I reduce the
looms arm to allow the saddle C to draw fowards 3th of an inch I next arrange
the jacks and healds every other to provide the accessory jackspaces for the
border part of pattern chain to work through when the ground part of pattern
chain is in use whenever ground and border parts of plan is to be (pegged or
wheeled) on each and every (rod or lag) on the basis and analogue of plan A
or on the reverse basis of plan A applicable to both the Knowles and other
heald looms and shown one inserted between the other sec Provisional drawings
at Fig. 3.
The apparatus before described is applicable to the Knowles heald loom which
(carrys or bears) these superscriptions,
HAYAWADA TUT R. KNOWLTS
DIMENTS
HUTCHINSON HOLLINGWORTH AND COMPANY LIMITED,
and their trade mark
DOBCROSS, SADDLEWORTH,
(DOBCROSS LOOM)
In weaving on the basis of plan A. see Fig. 3 of Provisional (the well known
drafting arrangment is used to produce borders warp way of shawl, namely the
ground and edge bits warp are drafted on front 6 healds and the border warp on
the back 6 healds and analogous drafts which are well known to produce
borders warp way of shawl) plan A 1. 3. 5 and so on, weaves a reversible shawl
cloth. 2. 4. 6 and so on also weaves a reversible cloth but shown bottom uppermost,

page_text: or has is known in weaving as the back up these two parts of my plan are
put one between the other on each and every (rod or lag) to accord with the
arrangment of the jacks and healds, when weaving the first cross edge bit of a
shawl the pin E is in G when some 24 inches is wore the weaver (draws or
applies) the looms (jackraise or jackleveling bar) and lifts pin E clear of bush (2
and draws saddle C before described foward a jackspace which is from one to the
next jack being the distance of one between 3th of an inch or thereabouts and
drops pin E in second grove G² from front of loom. Figs. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. of
Complete drawings is filed as part of my decreption.
Some 7 inches or so is wove in this position the loom is stoped the (jack leveling
bar) applied & pin "E." lifted, clear of bush C² the pattern saddle C put back
3th of an inch and the pin E. droped in the grove G₁ and continue weaving the
centre of shawl or is termed ground two or more of these borders can be put in
across the shawl as desired.
66
Assuming the reverse basis ground is in use and the jacks & healds anent 2. 4. 6.
and so on of plan "A." weaving the shawl is commenced with the pin E." in
second grove
G2" for the cross edge bit when 2 inches is wove the loom is
stoped and the jack leveling bar applied and pin E lifted clear of bush C² and
pattern saddle C put back a jackspace 3th of an inch or theirabouts and pin
droped in "G" weaving some 7 inches in this position puts the top colours of
pattern weft and interlace it underneath and top surface of shawl cloth receives
pattern weft that was previous to the change interlaced in under surface of shawl
the loom is stoped the bar applied and changes put back and continue weaving.
centre or ground of shawl two or more of these borders can be put in across the
shawl as desired.
Both parts of plan A serve to border each other and the drawings precicely
named and shown explain the description and the description the drawings.
The arrangment of the plan A. with jacks and healds at 1. 3. 5 and so on,
assuming X crosses thus is risers in the healds and (blank spaces in plan, to collars
or fallers in the healds) weaves a reversible shawl cloth (with borders warp way of
shawl produced by the well known drafting of warp mentioned in description,) and
to produce analogous borders weft way of shawl. I arrange another reversible
shawl plan bottom colours uppermost or as is known in weaving as the back up and
place these on the (rods or lags) anent the empty jackspaces as at 2. 4. 6 and so on,
these two parts of plan A. can be put under the jacks at will, both parts, border
and interlace each other wether plan A. or the reverse basis of plan A. is in use
and both parts of plan A are (pegged or wheeled) on cach and every (rod or lag)
and inserted one between the other and applicable to looms which turn one (rod or
lag) to each pick.
Having now particularly described and accertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be preformed I declare that what I
claim is.
Firstly the construction of the pattern cylindrical saddle C and its shell peice
marked Cand its bush "C" with its half-circle circular groves G₁ and G² see
Fig. 4 of Complete and boreing the before said saddle C and slot it see D' in Fig. 6
of Complete drawings to slide horizontaly on the reduced part of shaft B. see
Provision drawing & Fig. 1 and Fig. 2 of the Complete and the key D (forged
cast or embeded) in the said shaft B the saddle C to be kept in its position has to
which part of the pattern chain is in use by pin E being put through the arm
which supports (neck or neck bearing) F and pin E (secures or locks) the cross
sliding of saddle C but permitt the foward movement of pattern chain and
applicable to the Knowles heald loom.
Secondly I claim the arrangment of the looms jacks every other to provide the
accessory jackspaces and the use thereoff for working border part of pattern chain
through when the ground part of plan A is in use whenever ground and border are

page_text: (peged or wheeled) on each and every (lag or rod) on the basis and analogue of
pattern plan A. sec Fig. 3 of Provisional drawings, which shows them inserted one
between the other, and applicable both to the Knowles and other heald looms.
Thirdly I claim the arrangment of plan A. and its use thereof, in crossbordering,
based, on the assumption, that X thus, mean & belong to (wheels or pegs) and
blank spaces to (collars or fallers) in the healds and shows, both ground, and border,
parts of plan (pegged or wheeled) on each and every (rod or lag) and each part of
plan serve to border each other applicable both to the Knowles and other heald
looms shown at Fig. 3 of Provisional drawings.
Fourthly I claim the reverse basis of plan A and the use of same in cross-
bordering based on the assumption that X thus mean and belong to (collars or
fallers) in the healds and blank spaces to risers in the healds to accord with the
jacks and healds at 2. 4. 6 and so on and shows both ground and border parts
(pegged or wheeled) on each and every (rod or lag) applicable both to the Knowles
and other heald loom.
I claim, fifthly, the novelty of use and application of the Knowles loom
(jackraiseing or jackleveling bar) but only as an accessory too sliding the pattern
cylindrical saddle C backwards a jackspace to accord with claim four or fowards a
jackspace crosswise of the jacks to accord with claim three.
I claim sixthly, the construction, of bare half circle shell peice "C" cast with
pattern cylindrical saddle "C" to interslide crosswise of the jacks with another
bare half circle shell peice "I" secured to shaft "B" by screws "H" or cast with
the shaft "B" and designed to (relieve or help) "key D" and keep the pattern
cylindrical saddle "C." to keep its harmony to box saddle, as shown in the
Provisional drawings, "Fig. 1" and "Fig. 7" of Complete drawings.
Dated this orth don of Wahma1001
EDWARD TURNER,
Gladstone Buildings, Marsden, near Huddersfield, in the County of York.