IMPROVEMENTS IN OVERHEAD SEWING MACHINES
Year: 1876

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to James Fraser, of the Town and County of Perth, North
Britain, Plane Maker, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN OVERHEAD
SEWING MACHINES,"
Sealed the 2nd June 1876, and dated the 1st January 1876
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said James Fraser at the Office of
the Commissioners of Patents, on the 1st January 1876.
JAMES FRASER, of the Town and County of Perth, North Britain, Plane Maker.
"IMPROVEMENTS IN OVERHEAD SEWING MACHINES."
This Invention, which relates to improvements in sewing machines, consists
principally in a novel combination or arrangement of the needle and shuttle with
other parts of the machine, whereby an improved overhead stitch is made with a
single thread.
The sewing machine as constructed in accordance with this Invention consists of
a framing or standard in which the shuttle race is supported vertically, the said
race being formed in two parts, which at times are not situate in the same con-
tinuous plane, that is to say, the lower part of the race at the commencement of
each overhead stitch is situate underneath and within the edge or margin of the
cloth or other fabric being sewn, whilst the upper part of the race is situate above
and without the said edge or margin. The shuttle works vertically within the race,
being situate at the lower part thereof at the commencement of each stitch, and at
the upper end or point of the shuttle the needle is formed or fixed..
The cloth or fabric to be sewn is placed upon a horizontal table, and it is fed
along and pressed down thereupon by feeding and pressing mechanism of ordinary
construction. In sewing the needle is caused to ascend through the cloth by a
driver which acts against the lower end of the shuttle, and which is operated from
a grooved cam (placed on the main or driving shaft of the machine) by a lever, one
end of which is attached to the driver, whilst a pin fixed towards its opposite end
enters one groove in the cam. When the needle is about to ascend a hook, situated
under the table and operated by the grooved cam on the main shaft catches the
thread between the needle, and table, taking it to one side as the distance between
the needle and the table decreases, and lets it back again in time to form the loop
herein-after mentioned. After the needle has passed through the cloth or other
fabric, and whilst it is being drawn downwards by the driver acting on the upper
[Price 6d1

page_text: end of the shuttle another hook operated by the grooved cam catches the loop of
thread formed at the upper side of the fabric, and draws the said loop over to the
outside of the edge or margin of the fabric, which being effected a finger operated
by a lever from the grooved cam enters the loop and widens it. The under portion
of the shuttle race is then brought into line with the upper part thereof by a lever
also actuated by the cam. The needle and shuttle then pass upwards through the
loop, thereby lacking the stitch, and returning downwards outside of the loop, the
completed stitch is tightened whilst the needle and shuttle are descending into
position for commencing another stitch. By this means overhead sewing is produced
at the joining or at other parts of the cloth or fabric being operated upon.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed by
the said James Fraser in the Great Seal Patent Office, on the 1st of
July 1876.
JAMES FRASER, of the Town and-County of Perth, North Britain, Plane Maker.
"IMPROVEMENTS IN OVERHEAD SEWING MACHINES."
My said Invention, which relates to improvements in sewing machines, consists
principally in a novel combination or arrangement of the needle and shuttle withi
other parts of the machine, whereby an overhead stitch is made with a single
thread.
And in order that my said Invention may be properly understood I now proceed
more particularly to set forth the system, mode, or manner in or under which the
same is or may be used or practically carried into-effect, reference being had to the
annexed Sheet of Drawings, and to the letters and figures marked thereon, that is to
say :-
On the Sheet of Drawings hereunto appended Figure 1 is a front elevation, and
Figure 2 a side elevation of the overhead sewing machine, as constructed in accord-
ance with my said Invention, whilst Figure 3 is a horizontal section of the same on
the line x, y, Figure 2.
Figure 4 is a detailed view of the framing A of the machine, and Figures 5, 6, 7,
and 8 illustrate respectively details of parts of the apparatus herein-after
referred to.
As shewn on the Drawings a table B is carried on the front part of the framing A,
along which table the cloth or other fabric is fed whilst being sewn. The shuttle
race C of the machine is also supported at the front part of the framing, the said race
being placed vertically and formed in two parts, which are not at all times during
the operation of sewing the overhead stitch situated in the same continuous plane,
that is to say, the lower part C of the race at the commencement of each stitch is in
a position underneath the table B, and within the edge or margin of the fabric,
whilst the upper part C of the race is situated above and without or outside of the
edge or margin of the fabric carried on the table. The lower part C of the race is
centred on a pin or stud a fixed in the framing A, and the upper part C¹ is
similarly centred on a pin or stud b, the said upper part being held in position by a
spring catch or its equivalent secured to the framing at the position marked o,
Figure 4. When required the under part C of the shuttle race is brought into line
with the upper part by the cam D into a groove e, in which a pin f fixed in the
race enters. The cam D is keyed or otherwise fixed on a shaft E, which is geared
with the main or driving shaft F of the machine by bevil gearing, as seen at d,
Figure 3.
Figure 5 is a vertical section of a part of the shuttle race, with the shuttle G shewn
in position therein; and Figure 6 is a horizontal section of the shuttle and race on
the line v, w, Figure 5. As seen more particularly by Figure 5 the shuttle which
carries the sewing needle g at its point or upper end is formed in two parts, either
vertically or horizontally, which are attached to each other by a hinge h, the two

page_text: pieces when the shuttle is shut being kept close together by a spring catch i or its
equivalent. A spring k situated in the cavity of the shuttle gives the requisite
tension to the thread, cord, or string which passes through the eye of the needle g,
the tension being regulated by slackening or tightening the screw 1, by which the
spring is secured to the shuttle.
Figure 7 is a detailed view of the spring k. The shuttle G is held in the race C,
and driven upwards and downwards therein by the driver H on a heel or spur
formed on which the lower end of the shuttle rests, as seen at Figure 5, whilst
being driven upwards, the downward travel of the shuttle being effected by the
part of the driver marked m. A space is left between the part n, and also between
the vertical side of the driver and the shuttle to permit of the passage of the sewing
thread, cord, or string when required. Reciprocating vertical motion is commu-
nicated to the driver H, and thence to the shuttle by a lever I, which is centred at
its rearward end on a pin or stud n fixed in the framing A, and at its forward end
attached by a link o to a pin p projecting from the side of the driver. A roller or
spur is attached to or formed on the lever I at the position marked q, Figure 2,
which roller enters a groove formed in the side of a cam J fixed on the driving
shaft F of the machine.
Besides the cam D another cam K is fixed on the shaft E, and into a groove
formed on one side thereof a heel or spur projecting from the lower extremity of a
vertical rod renters, as seen at Figures 1, 2, and 3. The rod r is supported in a
bracket L, bolted or otherwise secured to the under side of the table B, and on the
upper end of the said rod a hook 8 is fixed horizontally. The hook is more par-
ticularly seen in detail at Figure 8 of the Drawings. A pin t is fixed in the side of
the cam K opposite to that whereat the cam groove is made, which at every stitch
of the needle g acts upon a lever u, so as to depress one end thereof. The other
end of the lever, to which a shoe is attached, so bears against a ring formed on the
back of the feed M that through the action of the pin t the shoe by frictional contact
against the ring turns the feed M round a distance equal to the distance between
two stitches.
The length of feed may be regulated by shifting the position of the pin t towards
or from the periphery of the cam K, or it may be adjusted by the employment
of a longer or shorter lever, the shoe being made removable for that purpose.
The lever u is brought back to its normal position by a spiral spring u¹ attached to
the lever and to the framing A, as seen at Figure 1, the spring being prevented
from drawing the lever too far by a stop 3 fixed in the bracket L.
Besides the hook 8, herein-before referred to, another hook N is employed in the
overhead sewing machine constructed in accordance with my said Invention. The
hook N is centred on a pin v fixed in the framing A, and it is operated from a
groove v made in the cam barrel D, a heel or spur formed on the hook entering
the said groove, as seen at Figure 3. A widener or finger O is also provided, and
which is centred on a pin or stud fixed in the middle standard of the framing A.
A roller or spur at the rearward end of the finger enters a groove made in the back
of the cam J, by which means when the cam is rotated the finger is operated, as
herein after set forth.
The presser foot P of the machine is attached to the upper part 01 of the shuttle
race by a pin w, on which it is free to swing, and it is maintained in its position by
a plate spring, which is also attached at one end to the shuttle race."
A spiral
spring a, acting on a sliding bar y, the lower end of which abuts against the presser
foot at a position opposite the side of the needle (when the latter has risen through
the fabric, as indicated in dotted lines at Figure 1) maintains the requisite pressure
on the foot P.
In preparing to sew with the overhead sewing machine, constructed as herein-
before. described, the shuttle G is taken out of the shuttle race, and filled with a cop
or spool of thread, cord, or string, the end of which is passed through the hole 1 in
the shuttle, and thence through the eye of the needle g. The removal of the shuttle
is accomplished by withdrawing the spring catch c, Figure 4, and turning the

page_text: part of the race upwards on the pin b, which has also the effect of similarly
turning upwards the presser foot P and apparatus in connection therewith. The
shaft F is next turned round about three-fourths of a revolution, which has the
effect through the cam D of inclining the lower part C of the shuttle race, as seen
in dotted lines at Figure 2, and through the cam J of projecting the shuttle G
outwards from the upper end of the said portion. When the thread, cord, or string
has been supplied to the shuttle, as set forth, about twelve inches of the thread is
drawn through the eye of the needle, and the shuttle is again placed in its position
in the shuttle race. The shaft F is then again turned through about a quarter of a
revolution, the operator meanwhile keeping hold of the end of the thread, which
will be in the slot 2, Figure 4, of the table B. The cloth or other fabric to be sewn
is now placed on the table B, and the upper part C¹ of the shuttle race, with the
presser foot P, is then turned downwards into the position shewn on the Drawings,
and secured by the spring catch c. The driving belt is next shifted on to the
fast pulley of the machine, the operator still holding the end of the thread, cord,
or string.
Before or at the instant of starting to sew with the machine the relative positions
of the various parts of the apparatus immediately connected with the formation of
the overhead stitch is approximately that shewn at Figure 8 of the Drawings. The
machine being started the shuttle G is carried up by the driver H until the point
of the needle is about one and one quarter inches through the fabric carried on the
table B. Whilst this is being accomplished the under hook 8 is by the cam K
caused to move through an arc, and take or draw a portion of thread to one side
and away from the needle, a slight tension being maintained on the thread between
the spring of the shuttle and the hole through the cloth or fabric. At the same
time the upper hook N is being by the rotation of the cam barrel D moved forwards
towards the table B, in order to be ready to catch the thread as the needle descends
and the feed moves the fabric forwards. When this series of movements have been
effected the shuttle & descends until the point of the needle g is clear of the under
side of the fabric, and whilst it is descending the upper hook N begins to move
backwards, the point of the hook passing in between the thread and the needle,
whereby it is caused to take hold of the thread and pull it upwards through the
fabric, that is to say, the hook N pulls the portion of thread which had previously
been caught by the hooks and drawn to one side. The said hook 8 whilst this
pulling is going on is by its cam being returned to its first position. Whilst the
hook N is so pulling the thread, cord, or string the under part C of the shuttle race
is by the cam barrel D being moved into the inclined position shewn in dotted
lines at Figure 2, that is, into line with the upper portion CL, and when the upper
.hook N is at or about the extreme limit of its backward movement the finger or
widener O is by the cam J caused to descend on the thread, a projection on the
finger entering into the loop and widening it sufficiently to allow the shuttle G to
pass up through it.
The shuttle then ascends outside of the edge or margin of the
fabric, and passes through the loop so formed, and the finger o being close against
the shuttle prevents the loop from passing up with it. Thus the shuttle, after
having passed thread through the loop, is caused to draw the thread constituting
the loop backwards through the cloth, thereby lessening the loop, and at the same
time the upper hook N is by its cam groove e moved forwards until the hook goes
over the top of the finger o, clearing it of the loop. When the shuttle G has
reached the full limit of its upward stroke it has drawn the loop so small that
when again descending the shuttle passes outside of it, the loop being drawn tight,
and the overhead stitch completed with a single thread by the shuttle in so
descending. The upper hook N, finger o, and other parts of the apparatus then
, being returned to the position shewn at Figure 8 another stitch is commenced and
completed, as herein-before described. The end of thread is held by the operator
only until the completion of the first stitch.
Figure 9 of the Drawings, hereunto annexed, illustrates in front elevation, and
Figure 10 in plan a modified arrangement of the apparatus employed in driving

page_text: the parts which form the overhead stitch, and, as seen, more particularly by
Figure 10. The cam barrel D, herein-before referred to, is in this arrangement
dispensed with, the shuttle race being moved through a vertical arc when required
by the lever A actuated by a cam B placed on the driving shaft F of the machine.
The under hook 8 is actuated by another lever C, a spur on the rearward end of
which enters a groove in the side of the cam B opposite to that from which the
lever A is operated. A wedge or inclined plane a is formed on or bolted to the
side of the lever C, which when the lever is reciprocated by the cam depresses the
free end of the lever b, by which the feed M is operated, as herein-before described.
A spring c is employed to raise the free end of the lever b to its normal position
after each action of the feed. The widener O is actuated from a cam & placed at or
formed on the back of the cam J, which operates the shuttle, as herein-before set
forth, and the upper hook N instead of being actuated by a separate cam barrel is
in this arrangement operated from another cam groove e formed on the back of the
cam J, or the said hook, together with other parts of the apparatus may be other-
wise actuated, it being explained that I do not confine myself to arrange the
improved overhead sewing machine precisely in the manner herein-before described
and shewn on the Drawings, as the same may be variously modified without
departing from the essential features of my said Invention.
be
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of my said Inven-
tion, and the system, mode, or manner in or under which the same is or may
used or practically carried into effect, I would observe in conclusion that what I
consider to be novel and original and therefore claim as the Invention secured to
me by the herein-before in part recited Letters Patent is,-
First. The general arrangement or construction of the sewing machine herein-
before described, wherein overhead sewing is produced with one thread, cord, or
string, and by means of the combination of apparatus more particularly seen at
Figure 8 of the appended Drawings, or any mere modification of such apparatus.
Second. The combined shuttle and needle herein-before described and shewn
more particularly at Figure 5 of the accompanying Drawings, and the employment
of the same, as and for the purposes set forth.
In witness whereof, I, the said James Fraser, have hereunto set my hand and
seal, this Twentieth day of June, One thousand eight hundred and seventy-
JAMES FRASER. (LS,)