Year: 1873

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to James Francis Wanner, of Charles Street,
Middlesex Hospital, in the County of Middlesex, Embroiderer, for
Sealed the 13th January 1874, and dated the 14th July 1873.

page_text: The trimming consists of a straight or curvilinear band or com.
bination of both (composed as will be presently described), which is
overlaid, by or from which stands out embroidered leaves or flowers
manufactured according to the Invention, for which I obtained Letters
Patent bearing date October 23rd, 1871, No. 2833. The band is made
by laying side by side lengths of braid and cord variously arranged and
connected together by transverse threads, which will thus form of the
braid and cords an ornamental flat fabric. This fabric may be enriched
by beads at its edges, the beads being applied at the turn of the uniting
thread.
The stems to which the embroidered flowers and leaves are attached
flow out from the edges of the bands. It will therefore be necessary in
making this band first to prepare a pattern drawing in order to provide
the length of braid required to form the stems where they occur, and to
avoid the necessity of joining up.
Supposing the workwoman to have made an inch of the band and a
stem for carrying embroidered flowers then to occur, she will lay out a
length of the edging sufficient to form when doubled back upon itself a
stem, and then proceed with the making of the band as before. When
a given length of band has thus been formed the loops of the edging
braid left will next be shaped into stems straight or branching, as
required, and secured by sewing.
Embroidered leaves and flowers prepared according to my above
mentioned Patent are next to be attached to the stems, and the whole
will then appear as a piece of detached embroidery.
To give variety to the trimming I may in some cases, apply flowers.
and leaves directly to the band, that is, without the intervention of a
stem, in which case the band will perform the duty of the stem.
Trimmings thus produced may be applied like ordinary trimmings to
dresses, and as each leaf or piece of embroidery is formed with a binding
edge and with an indented border line there will be no risk of the
embroidery ravelling, and the stitches used to attach the embroidery to
the garment will be effectually hidden.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said James Francis Wanner in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 14th January 1874.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JAMES
FRANCIS WANNER, of Charles Street, Middlesex Hospital, in the County
of Middlesex, Embroiderer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Fourteenth day of July, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-three, in the
thirty-seventh year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and suc-
cessors, give and grant unto me, the said James Francis Wanner,
Her special licence that I, the said James Francis Wanner, my
executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said
James Francis Wanner, my executors, administrators, and assigns,
should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and
at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and
lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United
Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of
Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF TRIMMINGS,”
upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said James Francis
Wanner, my executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing
under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly
describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what
manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed
in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and
immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said James Francis Wanner, do hereby
declare the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement, reference being had to the Drawing
hereunto annexed, and to the letters and figures marked thereon (that is
to say) :-

page_text: In general I propose to produce continuous foliated patterns, but I do
not limit myself thereto as the Invention is equally applicable to detached
ornaments or devices of various characters.
The continuous trimming consists of a straight or curvilinear band or
a combination of both (composed as will be presently described), which
is overlaid by, or from which stands out, embroidered leaves or flowers
manufactured according to the Invention for which I obtained Letters
Patent bearing date October Twenty-third, One thousand eight hundred
and seventy-one, No. 2833. The band is made by laying side by side
lengths of braid and cord variously arranged and connected together
by transverse threads, which will thus form of the braid and cords
an ornamental flat fabric. This fabric may be enriched by beads
at its edges, the beads being applied at the turn of the uniting
thread.
The stems to which the embroidered flowers and leaves are attached
flow out from the edges of the bands. It will therefore be necessary in
making this band first to prepare a pattern drawing in order to provide
the length of braid required to form the stems where they occur, and to
avoid the necessity of joining up.
Supposing the workwoman to have made an inch of the band and a
stem for carrying embroidered flowers then to occur, she will lay out a
length of the edging sufficient to form when doubled back upon itself a
stem, and then proceed with the making of the band as before. When
a given length of band has thus been formed the loops of the edging
braid left will next be shaped into stems straight or branching, as 2
required, and secured by sewing.
Embroidered leaves and flowers prepared according to my above
mentioned Patent are next to be attached to the stems, and the whole
will then appear as a piece of detached embroidery.
In the accompanying Drawing I have shewn in several views the 3
mode of carrying out my Invention.
Fig. 1 illustrates the manner of forming a band, which will constitute
in general the basis of the trimming or continuous pattern. In this
example the band is composed of seven lengths of braid or cord a, a, a¹, a¹,
which are laid side by side and connected together by a transverse 3
thread b, b, which is run backwards and forwards through and through
the braids or cords so as to convert them into a flat fabric.

page_text: In Fig. I the thread is shewn as connecting to the edges of the fabric
loops of glass beads c, but when these are not required for the enrich-
ment of the pattern the thread will be drawn tight against the edges of
the fabric.
the
The stems or lateral projections intended to carry the leaves and
flowers of the designs are formed from the edging braids or cords a¹,
same being laid out during the formation of the band, as shewn at a², for
any given length to suit the design.
To facilitate the manufacture of the band a pattern drawing is
provided, as shewn at Fig. 2, by the aid of which the workwoman in
forming the band will be able to judge of the length of edging braid
that will be required to be left for stems and tendrils. Fig. 3 shews the
same design, which is a portion of a continuous pattern completed
according to my Invention. In this Figure the loops of edging braid,
from which the stems and tendrils are formed, are shewn as brought by
means of stitching threads to their required shapes, and to the stems are
secured enrichments of beads, and also the embroidered leaves d, d, and
flower e (shewn detached at Figures 4 and 5), which complete the
design. These attached pieces of embroidery are formed as has been
already stated in the well known Swiss embroidering machine working
repeats of the same, which are to be cut out from the ground or base
fabric, the embroidered leaves and flowers are formed with a circum-
scribing line according to my above mentioned Patent.
Fig. 6 is another illustration of my improved embroidery trimming,
the pattern constituting a detached feature or material portion of a large
design.
To give variety to the trimmings I may in some cases apply flowers
and leaves directly to the band, that is, without the intervention of a
stem, in which case the band will perform the duty of the stem; an
illustration of this is given at f, Fig. 7.
Trimmings may be produced with the addition of crochet work, as shewn
at g, g, Fig. 8; these may be applied like ordinary trimmings to dresses,
and as each leaf or piece of embroidery is formed with a binding edge
and with an indented border line there will be no risk of the embroidery
ravelling, and the stitches used to attach the embroidery to the garment
will be effectually hidden.

page_text: Having now set forth the nature of my Invention of "Improvements
in the Manufacture of Trimmings," and explained the manner of carrying
the same into effect, I wish it to be understood that under the above in
part recited Letters Patent I claim manufacturing embroidery trimmings
in the manner above described.
In witness whereof, I, the said James Francis Wanner, have here-
unto set my hand and seal, the Fourteenth day of January, in
the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-
four.