A New or Improved Apparatus for Drafting the Patterns of Garments.
Year: 1889

page_text: Date of Application, 20th Aug., 1889-Accepted, 16th Aug., 1890
COMT LEID DI MULTICATION.
A New or Improved Apparatus for Drafting the Patterns of
Garments.
I, EUGENE EDWARD O'HALLORAN of Waipawa, in the Provincial District of Hawkes
Bay, in the 'olony of New Zealand, Tailor do hereby declare the nature of this inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement :—
My invention relates to a new or improved apparatus for drafting the patterns of
garinents and has for its objects enabling tailors to quickly produce in various shapes
and dimensions patterns of suits in various sizes.
In order that my invention may be most easily understood, I will now proceed to
describe the same and for that purpose shall refer to the accompanying sheets of
drawings on which similar letters of reference indicate corresponding parts.
Fig. 1 is a general plan or view of my improved apparatus or pattern by which
material is cut to form skirts and sleeves of coats and side bodices and backs of coats
and vests.
Fig. 2 is a plan of my apparatus or pattern designed for cutting material to form
the fore parts or pieces of a coat.
.
Fig. 3 is a plan of my apparatus designed for cutting the fore parts of vests.
Fig. 4 is the plan of my apparatus for cutting therefrom material to form trousers,
pants, knickers and leggings.
Figs. 5, 6, 7, 8, are diagrammatic views of the pattern shown in Fig. 1 and
arranged for each particular purpose for which it is required riz.:-for a sleeve, a vest
back, a morning coat side body and a coat back respectively.
Fig. 9 is a diagrammatic view of Fig. 4 set to a particular size for cutting there-
from the half of a pair trousers.
In these diagrammatic views some of the bars which are not needed for the
particular part which is being cut have been omitted and the other bars have been
placed in positions corresponding to the particular size of the part required. The
scales will be found by referring to Figs. 1 and 4 respectively.
Figs. 1, 2, 3, and 4 are respectively, reductions from a full size pattern at the
following scales viz. 3" 3" 1" 7th respectively so that as the value of each scale and of
its divisions and subdivisions is fully indicated whenever these scales occur, no
difficulty can be ascertained by any one wishing to form a full size pattern for use
with which the disclosed invention may be fully carried into practice.
A. B. C. D in Fig. 1, 5, 6, 7 and 8 is a square frame on the longest sides of which
are arranged scales of lengths and depths of garments alike on either side.
e.f.g.h. k. are cross bars sliding freely along slots in the sides A. B. C. D. as shewn
and which are held in position firmly when required by set screws or any other suitable
fastenings; on these bars are marked scales of width and marks which represent
points in the outlines of the patterns. 1. m. are shoulder slides, sliding along the bars e
and k respectively, and on which are fixed scales of depths; the scales numbered 1
to 14 inclusive refer to vest and morning coat patterns, 1, 2 and 3 being repetitions
on either side to keep the bar square, the numbers on these scales are placed in such a
manner that they can be read when the bar D. C. is before the operator; but to read
the remaining scales the instrument must be turned round so that the bar A. B. is
towards the reader.
Thus in using Figs. 5 and 8, the bar C. D. is towards the operator whereas in 6
and 7 the bar A. B. is towards the operator.
In Fig. 2 M and N form the centre rib of my apparatus as designed for drafting
coat fore parts, and on these are depth and length scales and a width scale for neck
points at top (m³), (o) is a small sliding scale.
D. p¹² ²² ) n 2 nª and 'n' are slides for measuring widths. p. p¹ p² p² r¹ are

page_text: compound slides capable of sliding both lengthwise and crosswise of the apparatus so
as to register the measure in any direction. pl has a vertical as well as a horizontal
scale, pp and p² have a bar P. attached to them and free to slide on the same and
which is jointed at P'.
9' are sliding bars for a purpose to be hereinafter described.
Nos. 1 and 2 form the centre rib of my apparatus as designed in Fig. 3 and on
these are depth and length scales.
(3) is a cross or neck slide with vertical and horizontal scales.
(4. 5. 9. 10 and 11) are slides having a longitudinal motion on the centre rib and
horizontal parallel scales.
(6. 7. and 8) are without scales.
(5) has a vertical as well as a horizontal scale.
(13 and 14) are bars similar to P in Fig. 2 and for a similar purpose.
A. A. A. forms the centre rib of my apparatus as designed in Figs. 4 and 9 having
a head A'.
B. B. is a body piece to set out the fork of the trousers and also to carry the side
scam slide (c) which has a longitudinal and vertical scale and also on this body B. B.
is carried the sliding square (D). D) and the leg centre slide A¹.
D. D. is a square having a vertical and a horizontal scale, and is free to move on the
head A¹.
D' is a piece having a horizontal and vertical scale and free to move on a pin on the
square (D).
.
E. E. E. etc. are slides free to inove in A and having horizontal scales as shown.
Having now described the several parts of my apparatus I will proceed to explain
the method of setting out a garment and for that purpose I will first describe the sac
coat.
I place the frame A. B. C. D. on the paper or cloth on which I require to describe
the pattern and I do so with the side (D. C) towards me and D to my right-hand.
This frame has now (as shewn in Fig. 8) the proper scales for the purpose (some of
those shewn in Fig. 1 not being necessary for the operation); the scales and the
purpose for which they are used are marked on the instrument and face me so as to
be easily read. Having taken the chest size required which is from 24 to 48 for sac
coats, or say 48 size, I fix the right hand edge of the shoulder bar (k) against the
number 48 on the scale (e¹) and screw fast. "I then move the shoulder slide (m) from
me also to No. 48 on the width scale (e²); next I fix the sac arın hole bar with its
right hand edge against No. 48 on scale f¹ and fasten as before; next I place the
waist bar with its right hand edge to the scale g at the position required for
waist length of coat, the scale g' being in actual inches as measured from the neck. I
now place the sac seat bar (h) with its right hand edge against the measure on the
scale (9); and lastly I similarly place the sac full length bar (e) against the desired
length on scale (9¹) and make all fast by the screws." On the outside bar to my
extreme right is a mark (m) which indicates the commencement of the centre seam of
the back, and on the bars k. f. g. h. are similar marks which also indicate the centre
seam. On bars 9 and there are three marks which can be used according to the
judgment and the circumstances for stooping, erect, or normal shaped figures.
By drawing a line as shewn dotted the back seam is finished. On the outside bar
to my extreme right is an angular projection which has the form of the back neck,
and by marking off the number 48 on the diagonal scale upon the same, I find the
neck point of the shoulder seam. By drawing a line from this neck point to a point
marked at the angle of the shoulder slide (m) I form the shoulder seam No. 48 on the
scale of the shoulder slide (7) will be the side seam point which I join by a line to the
shoulder point. On the side seam width scale of the bar f. g. h, I find the number 48
and trace the shape of the said seam through the said points from 48 on the shoulder
slide the pattern is then complete and contains all the allowances for making up,
which allowances have been accurately calculated for, in drawing the scales.
This completes the pattern of the back.
By apparatus, as shewn in Fig. 2 I draft the fore part of the sac coat. Having

page_text: placed the apparatus with the curved bar (P) towards me, and the scale of neck
points (m) to my right, I move the sac shoulder bar (p) until its right hand edge
marks 48 on its scale on the bar (M), having previously adjusted the angular plate (o)
also to 48 on the bar (p); next I move the bar (p³) on its scale on centre bar M. I
now place the bars p2 and p' with their right hand edges against No. 48 of arm hole
and breast depth scales of the bar (M).
I slide out the slide of p² to No. 48 also the slide of 1 to 48 and the horizontal
scale of the said slide p¹ to 48, next I adjust natural waist bars p³ and p² to the
measured length by the measure of (M) and adjust its slide to 48. The bar g' is then
adjusted to the proper measured distance for the full length of garment. The jointed
bar P is now set to No. 48 on the bars på p and p'. It is evident that by drawing
lines as shewn by the dots on Fig. 4 and around the bar P that a proper pattern may
be easily made and that such pattern can be altered and varied in its proportions as
required. The slide (O') fixed by a swivel pin to the bar (m. n) has a scale similar to
back neck scales of Fig. 1. and serves as a check for regulating the distance from
extreme back of neck to waist length of bar p³ in abnormal and normal patterns.
I will now describe the setting out of the sleeve.
Fig. 5 shews my apparatus as applied to drafting sleeves, but is drawn to
similar scale. Having placed the side (. D next to me with the end (A. D) to
the right. On the left hand end of the bar A. B. is a scale for sleeve hind arm
depths and a similar scale on (D. C). I fasten the right hand edge of bar (k)
against 48 on these scales.
I then set Bff from the same edge the length of the elbow, and full length of
the sleeve by moving the bars. and e. (to the measure taken) on the sides for the
purpose, no other scale being required, but for which an ordinary tape may be used.
No. 48 on f. o. or forearm scale and 48 on (s. t.) sleeve top scale and 48 of sleeve
hind arm scale are points which show the outline of the sleeve.
The line marked, "sleeve seam." on bar h. and 48 on scale marked, "sleeve
elbows," of bar h. and 48 on sleeve cuffs scale of bar (e) together with the
point () on bar (e) give points through which the diagram of the sleeve may be
drawn as shewn by the dotted line. It is of course apparent that any other size
could similarly be set off, the size 48 being only taken as an example.
It is evident from this description of a coat that the pattern of a vest may be
set out in a similar manner, the instructions being recorded on this and the other
instruments. To give a brief description of the forming of the vest patterns.
The bar 13. and 14. form in Fig. 3 the front edge of a waistcoat pattern from
top of front neck to the full length required; the bar (8) which is fixed by a
swivel pin to its slide (8) formns the lower edge of the waistcoat to the shape
required; the ends of the bars 6. 7. and 8 give the outline points of side seam,
and the dotted lines which are indicated on the scales (similar to those described
for the coat) will complete the pattern.
To draft a design for trousers I use my apparatus as shewn in Fig. 9.
Having placed the apparatus lengthwise before me with angle of the square D.
to the right and remembering that 48 is still the size selected for the suit, I slide the
leg centre mark on the slide (A') against the 48 on thigh centre scale of body
part (B), and fasten it there. I then draw out the side seam slide (C) until 48 appears
against the body part at B' as shewn, and then fix by the screw; next I slide the
square (D) to the right until the length of body on the square (D) appears against the
fork line as shewn, and then fasten by serew. Next I set the knee bar (E.) to its
proper position as the natural measure indicates on the measured bar (A) and so on
with the other bars (E) and lower bar (E) measuring the full length of the trousers.
On the end bar to the left and right are scales on both edges to set out the width of
back and front portions of the trousers.
The top edge of the square D represents the waist from the fly to the hip, and has
the scale of waist measures upon it and the slide C when drawn out to 48 forms the
position of the side seams of tops and undersides of the pattern.

page_text: The projecting indicators shewn with set screws on the bars E with scales can be
set to all the required sizes of different sized persons.
On the square (D) is placed a moveable piece D¹ with vertical and horizontal scales
which are used to regulate the width and shape of the top waist; the square D as
shewn fixed at right angles with the instrument is used for indicating the shape of the
front of the body; it will be perceived that it is also shewn in another position, and
serves to indicate the seat, and waist seam of the back body portion of the pattern.
Having now described the method of setting out a complete set of suit patterns, it
will be evident that my apparatus and method are capable of drafting with the least
amount of trouble, sets of patterns in sizes varying from 24 to 48 breast and seat
measure for which the apparatus is designed, and which are the usual sizes required
by tailors, and that the shape may be almost infinitely varied to suit the proportions
of normal or abnormal figures by the various motions of the several parts, and the
scales and dimensions marked on the instrument.
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of my invention,
and how the same is or may be carried into effect, I wish it to be understood that
I do not confine myself to any particular material in the manufacture of my
apparatus, but what I claim as novel and useful and desire to secure by Letters
Patent is
The system and apparatus formed of combination of bars, scales, and indications to
enable any person versed in the art of tailoring to draft a pattern or design with
facility; the said scales making the usual allowances for making up within the outline
of the patterns; substantially as described herein and illustrated in the accompanying
drawings.
Dated this 12th day July 1889 -
RAYNER & CASSELL,
37, Chancery Lane, London, Agents for the Applicant.