IMPROVEMENTS IN LADIES RIDING TROWSERS
Year: 1860

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Walter Hood, of Glasgow, in the County of Lanark.
North Britain, Clothier, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN LADIES
RIDING TROWSERS."
Sealed the 3rd September 1860, and dated the 5th July 1860.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Walter Hood at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 5th.
July 1860.
I, WALTER HOOD, of Glasgow, in the County of Lanark, North Britain,
Clothier, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN LADIES' RIDING TROWSERS," to be as follows, that is to say :-
This Invention relates to the cutting and arranging of the parts of ladies"
riding trowsers, so as to obtain a superior fit, combined with a degree of
comfort and freedom from irritation wholly unattainable with those cut on the
ordinary system. According to this mode of cutting trowsers, they are shaped
so as to conform to the limbs of the wearer when seated on horseback, in an
easy and natural manner, and without causing drag or strain upon any part.
Thus the right leg of the trowsers is cut to a curved figure approximating
to the form of the limb when in position on the saddle.. --The curvature of
this portion of the garment prevents any strain upon the material at the knee,

page_text: as well as the dragging in different directions caused by the angular position
of the limb. From the elevated position of the right knee in riding, the
position of the foot is correspondingly altered, and to meet this the bottom of
the right trowser leg is cut longer in front and shorter behind, so as to conform
easily to the position of the foot when in the stirrup. To avoid the chafing
and irritation which arises from the leg seams being placed in the ordinary
way, as in gentlemen's trowsers, the upper sides of those made on this
principle are cut narrower at the upper part of the thighs or top of the leg
seams, and a corresponding portion is left on the under side to make up the
deficiency. This arrangement brings the upper part of the leg seam round to
the front of the thigh, so that the inner part is protected by soft elastic cloth,
the absence of the ordinary seams preventing irritation. To this end also the
upper part of the left thigh of the trowsers and the lower part of the body
which joins it are cut wider and longer than the corresponding part of
the right thigh, which is narrower and shorter in proportion, so as to bring the
closing or joining seam, which is usually central, to the right side, and on the
front thigh of the wearer. In this way there is a surface of soft clastic cloth
on the central part of the garment where the seam has hitherto been placed
which caused irritation. The left leg of the trowsers is cut straight in the
usual way, excepting the improvements in the position of the upper part of
the leg seam and lower part of the body before referred to.
The upper part
of the trowsers is shaped to conform to the contour of the wearer, and to
have the same supporting effect as a riding belt. The waistband is cut of a
curved figure, and the inner curve being sewn to the top of the trowsers leaves
the upper part free for the expansion of the body in breathing. Hence the
upper edge of the waistband does not girt the wearer, and all unpleasant
tightness or contraction is avoided. Trowsers cut upon this principle are
exceedingly easy in wear, fit anatomically correct, and are adapted to admit of
ladies taking equestrian exercise without subsequent inconvenience which the
ordinary form of the garment causes.

page_text: WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Fifth day of July, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and sixty, in the twenty-fourth year of Her reign,
did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the said
Walter Hood, Her special license that I, the said Walter Hood, my
executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Walter
Hood, my executors, administrators, or assigns, should at any time agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during
the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise,
and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the
Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
LADIES' RIDING TROWSERS," upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said
Walter Hood, by an instrument in writing under my hand and scal, should
particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in
what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed
in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and
immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Walter Hood, do hereby declare the
nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statements reference being had to the accompanying Drawings, and to the
letters and figures marked thereon, that is to say :-
My said Invention relates to the cutting and arranging of the parts of ladies'
riding trowsers, so as to obtain a superior fit, combined with a degree of comfort
and freedom from irritation wholly unattainable with those cut on the ordinary
system. According to this mode of cutting trowsers, they are shaped so as to
conform to the limbs of the wearer when seated on horseback in an easy and
natural manner, and without causing drag or strain upon any part. Thus
the right leg of the trowsers is cut to a curved figure approximating to the
form of the limb when in position on the saddle; the curvature of this portion
of the garment prevents any strain upon the material at the knee, as well as
the dragging in different directions caused by the angular position of the limb.
From the elevated position of the right knee in riding, the position of the
foot is correspondingly altered, and to meet this the bottom of the right
trowser leg is cut longer in front and shorter behind, so as to conform easily
to the position of the foot. To avoid the chafing and irritation which arises
from the leg seams being placed in the ordinary way, as in gentlemen's trowsers,
the upper sides of those made on this principle, are cut narrower at the
upper part of the thighs or top of the leg seams, and a corresponding portion.

page_text: is left on the under side to make up the deficiency. This arrangement brings
the upper part of the leg seam round to the front of the thigh, so that the inner
part is protected by soft elastic cloth, the absence of the ordinary seams pre-
venting irritation. To this end also, the upper part of the left thigh of the
trowsers, and the lower part of the body which joins it, are cut wider and longer
than the corresponding part of the right thigh, which is narrower and shorter
in proportion, so as to bring the closing or joining scam which is usually
central to the right side, and on the front thigh of the wearer.
In this way
there is a surface of soft elastic cloth in the central part of the garment where
the seam has hitherto been placed which causes irritation. The left leg
of the trowsers is cut straight in the usual way, excepting the improvements
in the position of the upper part of the leg seam and lower part of the body
before referred to. The upper part of the trowsers is shaped to conform to
the contour of the wearer; and to have the same supporting effect as a riding
belt, the waistband is cut of a curved figure, and the inner curve being sewn
to the top of the trowsers, leaves the upper part free for the expansion of the
body in breathing. Hence the upper edge of the waistband does not girt the
wearer, and all unpleasant tightness or contraction is avoided. Trowsers cut
upon this principle are exceedingly easy in wear, fit anatomically correct, and
are adapted to admit of ladies taking equestrian exercise without subsequent
inconvenience which the ordinary form of the garment causes.
And in order that my said Invention may be properly understood, I shall
now proceed to describe the several Figures on the explanatory Sheet of
Drawings, which I have hereunto appended for the purpose of showing certain
modifications under which my improvements may be judiciously carried out in
practice, that is to say :-
Figure on the accompanying Drawings represents tho outline of the right
front and back parts of a pair of ladies riding trowsers cut according to my
improvements in this article of wearing apparel; Figure 2 is a corresponding
representation of the front and back parts of the left side. These Figures
are reduced from patterns of the natural size, the rectangular spaces enclosed
by the vertical and horizontal lines representing areas three inches by two;
Figure 3 is a front view of a pair of trowsers; they are represented as if
distended and arranged in a position corresponding to that of the limbs of the
wearer when seated on horseback; Figure 4 is a back view of the upper
part of the trowsers to show the mode of obtaining an accurate but easy fit to
the figure of the wearer; and Figure 5 is an outline of the form of the waist-
band. The outlines delineated in Figures 1 and 2 of the accompanying
Drawings are only given as a general example of this mode of cutting the

page_text: riding trowsers, because in every case certain variations must be made in
different parts to suit the particular configuration of the figure or pur-
pose for which the garment is intended. In cutting a pair of trowsers cor-
responding to the outlines delineated in Figures 1 and 2, the side seam of the
right fore part A is commenced at a point B, about seven-and-a-half inches in
from the edge of the cloth or other fabric of which they are to be made. The
outline of the side seam then curves towards the edge of the cloth until it
reaches the knee part at C, where the line touches the edge. From this part
the line is carried inwards to the point forming the bottom of the side seam
at D, which in this example is about seven inches inwards from the edge of
the cloth. A line is then drawn in an angular direction from the point D to
the point E; this line is the limit of the length of the forepart. From the
point E the curved line which gives the proper shape to the leg seam com-
mences; this outline gradually widens upwards to the knee part at F. Above
this part the outline curves outwards slightly, and at the point G it extends
outwards in a lateral direction to the point H, from which the outline is
carried upwards to the point H', forming the upper part of the front seam.
The outline is then carried across to the point B in a direction curved slightly,
and when the cloth is cut out to this figure it forms the right fore or front
part of the trowsers. The outline of the corresponding back part I is com-
menced at the point J, and is carried down to the point K, and curved in the
manner delineated in the Figure, or in manuer equivalent thereto. From the
point Ka slightly concave line is carried backwards to the point L, from
which the curved line representing the edge of the leg seam is carried out to
the point M. The line M, N, corresponds to the part G, H, in the fore part,
when the two are sewn together, the narrowing of the fore part below the
point I being made up by increasing the width of the back part below the
point M. In this manner when the two parts are sewn together, the leg sean
will not be in the ordinary position, but will be brought round to the upper
part of the thigh of the wearer, as delineated in Figure 3 of the accompanying
Drawings.
By this mode of arranging this part of the garment the chafing and
irritation which the wearer experiences from the seam when placed in the
usual position is wholly avoided, because the seam is removed from its usual
position, and in its place is a smooth and accurately fitting surface of soft
elastic material, which cannot possibly give rise to the inconvenience hitherto
complained of. From the point N the outline is curved in the manner shown,
and carried up to the point O; the top of the back part is formed by carrying the
line down to the point J. This completes the outline of the right back part,

page_text: excepting that two gusset pieces are cut out of the cloth at P and Q, when
these openings are closed together; the cloth has then the required convexity
given to it to fit the bip of the wearer.
In the example given in the accompanying Drawings two gusset pieces are
shown as cut out from the back parts, but the number, as well as the size and
configuration of these gusset pieces, must be varied according to the figure for
which the garment is designed. The peculiar curvature given to the knee of
the right leg of the trowsers is intended to fit easily, but accurately to the
corresponding limb of the wearer when seated on horseback. The position of
this part of the trowsers, supposed to be distended by the limb, is represented
in Figure 3 of the accompanying Drawings, in which position the leg of the
trowsers sits perfectly smooth, and without creasing.
The Diagram, Figure 2, represents the outlines of the front and back parts
of the left side of the trowsers, which, excepting the curvature at the knee, is
generally similar in form to the parts described in Figure 1. The two parts
forming the left leg of the trowsers are cut to fit the limb in a straightened
position, but with the leg seam brought round to the top of the thigh, as
herein-before described in reference to Figure 1 of the accompanying
Drawings. From the description given of the outlines of the parts in
Figure 1, it will be unnecessary to repeat the same for Figure 2, as the
different points of the outlines are marked with corresponding letters of refer-
ence. It is, however, necessary to remark upon an important peculiarity
in cutting the trowsers at the parts where the closing or junction seam is
formed which unites the right and left sides of the trowsers. This peculiarity
in the junction seam consists in so cutting the parts that the seam at the
lower part of the body is brought over to one side, either to the right or left
as may be desired. This is done by varying the shape of the back parts of
the trowsers at the junction or fork seam; thus the back part I of the left
side, Figure 2, from the points R to S, is cut wider and longer than the
corresponding part in Figure 1. In this manner the left side of the trowsers
being cut larger than the other, the lower part of the junction seam is
brought over to the right side of the wearer, as delineated in Figure 3 of the
accompanying Drawings. In making up garments of this kind, the workman
is directed to stretch some parts of the cloth in the pressing, and to shrink
other parts, so as to produce the necessary convex and hollow parts to fit the
figure anatomically.
In Figures 1 and 2 of the accompanying Drawings the parts which are to
be shrunk in are indicated by V-shaped marks drawn in red as at T, whilst
those parts which are to be stretched are indicated by short parallel lines as

page_text: at U. Thus, at the upper part of the side seams the back parts of the trowsers
are hollowed or curved inwards at U, and in making up the garment these
parts are stretched out so as to bring this curved part to a straight line.
This has the effect of throwing a certain amount of fulness of the material on
to the hip, and so giving such a degree of convexity to this part as to fit the
figure easily and anatomically correct. It has been shown that the upper
part of the trowsers fit closely to the contour of the figure, and thus afford a
considerable degree of support to the waist, but this is further increased by
the waistband, delineated in Figure 5, which is so shaped that when sewn on
to the trowsers it affords a support similar to that of a riding belt. The
curved edge V is that which is sewn to the upper part of the trowsers, which
has the effect of girting in the lower edge where it fits into the waist. From
the seam the waistband springs outwards, conforming easily to the figure, and
at the same time affording the support of a riding belt, without being accom-
panied by inconvenient thickness or rigidity of material. Further support may
be afforded to the lower part of the body of the wearer by means of straps and
buckles fitted inside the trowsers; such an addition is particularly useful in bunting
or other rapid equestrian exercise. A strap W and buckle, as shown in Figure 4,
alfords the means of tightening the waistband when required. The ordinary
foot straps are fitted to the bottom of each leg of the trowsers. Riding
trowsers cut in this manner are as easy for walking in as those cut on tho
ordinary principle, whilst in point of comfort, as well as general utility, they
are greatly superior, and they entirely do away with the objectionable incon-
venience and discomfort attending the ordinary kind at present in use.
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of my said
Invention, and the inanner in which the same is or may be used or carried
into effect, I would observe, in conclusion, that what I consider novel and
original, and therefore claim as the Invention secured to me by the herein-
before in part recited Letters Patent, is,―
First, the system or mode of arranging and shaping ladies' riding trowsers,
as herein-before described and delineated in the accompanying Drawings.
Second, the system or mode of cutting and making ladies' riding trowsers
with the right leg of the trowsers curved to suit the position of the limb of
the wearer when seated on horseback, as herein-before described and delineated
in the accompanying Drawings, whether accomplished in the manner described
and shown, or any modification of the same.
Third, the system or mode of cutting and making ladies' riding trowsers,
so that the seam which unites the right and left parts together is brought

page_text: more or less over to the right or left side of the centre, as herein-before
described and delineated in the accompanying Drawings.
Fourth, the system or mode of making and shaping ladies' riding trowsers,
so that the material is thereby caused to assume the convex or the hollow
figure corresponding to the human form, as herein-before described and shown
in the accompanying Drawings.
In witness whereof, I, the said Walter Hood, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Twenty-eighth day of December, One thousand
eight hundred and sixty.
WALTER HOOD. (L.S.)
WALTER HOOD. (L.S.)