Improvements in Buttonhole Sewing and other Overseaming Machines.
Year: 1899

page_text: Date of Application, 30th May, 1899-Accepted, 21st Oct., 1899
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Buttonhole Sewing and other Overseaming
Machines.
I, SAMUEL HICKOX WHEELER, of Fairfield, in the County of Fairfield and State
of Connecticut, United States of America, Manufacturer, do hereby declare the
nature of this invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, to
be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
The object of my invention is to provide a new and improved cloth-clamp
actuating mechanism for use in connection with suitable mechanism for over-
seaming buttonholes or other designs. In the present instance I have embodied
my invention in the well-known Wheeler & Wilson sewing machine commer-
cially known as the Wheeler & Wilson D10 sewing machine with buttonhole
attachment.
The primary object obtained by my invention is to give to a buttonhole, for
instance, a predetermined number of bar stitches at each end of the button-hole.
irrespective of the number of side stitches at each side of the buttonhole; and, like-
wise, to give a predetermined number of side stitches at each side of the button-
hole, regardless of the number of bar stitches, the whole of which is accomplished
by mechanism automatically controlled and operated. Further, I have provided
means whereby the number of side stitches as well as of bar stitches may be
varied, independent one of the other by an easy and simple adjustment of the
parts, and to maintain, if so desired, a predetermined number of bar stitches with
relation to a changed or varied number of side stitches. For instance, in stitch-
ing a buttonhole an inch long, it may be desired to bar each end thereof with
six bar-stitches, while when it is sought to stitch buttonholes a half-inch in
length, it may be desirable to maintain the same number of bar stitches at each
end of the buttonhole while the number of side stitches at each side of the button-
hole would be reduced in view of the shortened length of said buttonhole.
Further, it may be desirable to maintain a given number of bar stitches at each
end of a given sized buttonhole, while it is sought to change the number of
stitches at each side of the buttonhole. My invention is specially adapted to
effect these results by means of quick and simple adjustment of parts.
In connection with the foregoing, my invention also includes means for pre-
determining the depth of the overseam stitches, whereby in a buttonhole, for
instance, the depth of side and bar stitches may be varied and predetermined,
and the mechanism will then automatically stitch the same.
Further, I have improved means whereby the position and length of the stitches,
forming any particular design, as for instance in the present case the formation
of the side and bar stitches of a buttonhole, are accurately predetermined and,
by automatic operation of my improvements, governed; and in this connection
I have also provided means whereby in the stitching of the required pattern or
design, the transition from the stitching, say, of the short side stitches to the
relatively long end stitches is accomplished without the making of mongrel
stitches on the one hand and without liability of a jam or lock in the operation
of the mechanism on the other.
Included in my invention as part of the mechanism through the operation of
which I am enabled to provide for relatively long and short stitches, as, for

page_text: instance, in the making of a barred buttonhole, I employ a vibrating lever of
peculiar and novel construction through which motion is conveyed to the cloth-
clamp in accordance with the form or design of the controller-cam or pattern-
cam, irrespective of the normal throw given to said lever by the lever actuating
mechanism. In connection with the controller-cam and vibrating lever, which
are intended, in the operation of my mechanism, to control the crosswise move-
ments of the cloth-clamp in the making of relatively long and short stitches, I
also provide means whereby the length of such stitches may be relatively
11:creased.
By the employment of my invention I am enabled by the use of an adjustable
controller-cam and by adjustment of parts of the mechanism, to stitch various
designs or patterns, and to lengthen and shorten the stitches at any desired
portion or portions, of the predetermined cycle of stitching.
For a full and accurate understanding of my invention, and of the nature and
scope thereof, reference is made to the following description and claims.
In the annexed drawings I have embodied my invention in one form of
mechanism which I have shown as applied to the base plate of the well-known
Wheeler & Wilson D10 sewing machine, with the arm and the usual sewing
mechanism removed for clearness of illustration.
Fig. 1 is a plan view of such base plate, showing a portion of the main or
driving shaft, the switch cam, and one form of mechanism which embodies my
invention.
Fig. 2 is a side view of Fig. 1 showing a portion of the bed-plate broken away
and the front guide-way for the cloth-clamp slide frame removed to bring to view
certain mechanism, to be referred to, as forming part of the mechanism embody-
ing my invention.
Fig. 3 is a plan of a portion of the underside of the bed-plate, with attached
mechanism.
Fig. 4 is a plan view of a portion of the bed-plate with the mechanism shown
in Figs. 14 and 15 removed for clearness of illustration of the remaining parts
to be particularly referred to.
Figs. 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9 are detail views of the pattern cam and parts thereof.
Fig. 10 is a plan view of the cloth-clamp slide frame with the clamp removed.
Fig. 11 is an underside view of the cloth-clamp slide frame with cloth-clamp
removed and showing the pattern-cam follower and its adjusting devices.
Figs. 12 and 13 are details to more clearly illustrate the pattern-cam follower
and parts of mechanism which co-operate therewith.
Fig. 14 is a perspective of parts which appear in Fig. 1 and which are removed
from Fig. 4.
Fig. 15 is a perspective view of the vibrating mechanism which transmits the
vibratory and feed movements to the cloth-clamp actuating mechanism.
Fig. 16 shows in plan a stitched buttonhole such as made by the employment
of the mechanism embodying my invention.
Fig. 17 shows a form of stitched buttonhole as made on the Wheeler & Wilson
buttonhole sewing machine referred to herein.
Corresponding parts in the several figures are indicated by like reference
characters.
The bed-plate A, the main driving shaft a, the cloth-clamp, the under member B
of which is shown, the switch-cam b, the cross slide 61, to which the cloth-clamp is
attached, the stationary guide-way 2, and the adjustable guide-way 63, for the
cloth-clamp slide frame 64, the ratchet wheel D, the friction spring 66, with its
adjusting nut 7, the feed link 78, with its connections 69, and 610, and pawl 6",
for engaging the ratchet wheel D, the switch-cam follower 612, (shown clearly in
Fig. 15) the connecting link 613, (see Fig. 15) the cloth-clamp slide frame b, and
the vibrating lever (, are common to the well-known Wheeler & Wilson 1)10
sewing machine with buttonhole attachment, with the exception that in the
present instance the connecting link is adjustably connected at its rear end

page_text: to an auxiliary lever c (see Figures 1 and 5) new to the present invention-and
fulcrumed to the usual stud c¹ on which is also pivoted the main vibrating lever C.
which is likewise common to the said Wheeler & Wilson machine, except in the
particulars to be hereinafter mentioned. Referring to Figs. 1 and 14, the feed
ring 64, carrying the pawl 6", feed link 68, connections 6º, 610, and spring 615,
are also common to said Wheeler & Wilson buttonhole sewing machine.
In the Wheeler & Wilson D 10 sewing machine with buttonhole attachment, as
employed in the market for years, motion is transmitted from the switch-cam b
through the cam-follower, 612, to a lever corresponding generally to the lever C,
to vibrate the latter. By the vibration of this lever motion is transmitted through
a connecting link, corresponding substantially to the connecting link 68, and a
pawl, corresponding to the pawl b, to a ratchet wheel D to give rotation to a
heart cam fast on the same spindle which carries the ratchet wheel, and by
virtue of the rotation of the ratchet wheel and heart cam and their proper and
well-known connecting means, a lengthwise reciprocation or cycle of feed move-
ment is given to the cloth-clamp.
In the present instance, the construction differs from that in the well-known
Wheeler & Wilson machine referred to, for herein I employ two ratchet wheels,
namely, the upper ratchet wheel D, and, mounted on the same spindle imme-
diately below, the ratchet wheel 1), another ratchet wheel D', more clearly shown
in Fig. 2. These ratchet wheels 1), D¹; are made fast to each other and also to
a gear pinion d mounted upon the same spindle below the ratchet wheel D', said
ratchet wheels and gear pinion being loose on said spindle, (see Figs. 2 and 14).
This gear pinion meshes with the gear wheel (see Fig. 4) fast on the spindle
(see Fig. 3). The gear wheel is provided with a cam groove d³, shown partly
in full lines in Figs. 1 and 4, so that in reality the gear wheel with its cam
groove constitutes a feed cam for the cloth-clamp.
In the Wheeler & Wilson buttonhole machine to which reference has been
made, the cloth-clamp slide frame which works in the guide-ways carries all the
cloth-feeding mechanism, and therefore such mechanism partakes of the jogging
movement (or that reciprocating movement of the machine whereby the edge
and depth stitches are properly placed) and its switch connections are required
to jog such parts, whereas in the present instance, I have relieved the cloth-
clamp slide frame 6 of the cloth-clamp feeding mechanism and have secured
such parts to the base plate of the machine.
Hence, the spindle or stud 616 (see Figs. 2 and 4), on which are mounted the
ratchet wheels D, D¹, and the gear pinion d is secured in the bed-plate A of the
machine, and the cloth-clamp slide frame is suitably cut away to permit of the
passage therethrough of said spindle, and also to permit of the proper movements
of said slide frame. The same is true of the other spindles or studs to be referred
to, which pass through the slide frame and which are secured in the bed of the
machine, so that the slide frame is largely skeletonized for this purpose.
The feed cam d', is the device which, through its operation and through proper
connections with the cloth-clamp, gives to the cloth-clamp B the required length-
wise movement or cycle of feed movement, to, for instance, provide a button-
hole with overseam stitches. This feed cam by the gear teeth at its periphery
is geared two-to-one with relation to the gear pinion d and consequently has a
single revolution to two revolutions of the ratchet wheels D, D', and, as pointed
out, the motion transmitted through connections of the vibrating lever C to the
ratchet wheel D is, through such gears, transmitted to the feed cam or gear d'.
To trace motion from said feed-cam d to the cloth-clamp B the mechanism
is as follows:-
The slide bar dat one end slides in a suitable groove or slot in the guide-
way 62, (as more clearly shown in Figs. 1 and 4), and at the other end is held to
the slide way by a shouldered screw d (see Fig. 4) passing through an elongated
slot in said slide bar, and entering the said guide-way b As shown by shading
in Figs. 1 and 4 this slide bar is bent to enable it to be so secured in the machine.

page_text: As shown in Figs. 1 and 4 the slide bar is provided with gear teeth do which
mesh into gear teeth d' of the sectors of the pivoted lever do pivoted by the
pivot screw d (see Figs. 2 and 3) to the baseplate A. The slide bar d' is provided
with a cam roller (not shown) but held in position by the screw X (see Fig. 4).
The pivoted lever 10 has a slot d' as shown in Figs. 1 and 4 and a suitable
adjusting stud ", the lower end of which loosely passes through a slot in the
lever pivoted to the base-plate by a screw 13, and the forward end of which
lever is pivotally connected with a link №4 (see Figs. 2 and 4) which link is, in
turn, pivoted to the cross slide so that motion given to the lever d, will, in
turn, be imparted, through the link d, to said cross-slide which carries the
cloth-clamp.
It will be observed by tracing this train of connections just described, that
motion will be transmitted from the feed cam dthrough the slide bar d*,
sector of the pivoted lever du pivoted lever 2, link d to the cross slide b¹
to which is attached the cloth-clamp whereby the cloth-clamp will be given its
cycle of feed movement in the overseaming of, for instance, a buttonhole such
as is delineated in Fig. 16.
It is apparent that adjustment of the adjusting stud d in the slot d³ of the
pivoted lever do will determine the lengthwise feed or cycle of feed movement
of the cloth-clamp so as to give it greater or less reciprocating throw. For
instance, with a given throw of the cloth-clamp under the adjustment illustrated
in Fig. 1, adjustment of the adjusting stud d, in a position nearer to the pivot
of the lever do will give a less throw to the cloth-clamp, because, as can be
seen from inspection of Fig. 1, said adjusting screw is then farther removed
from the pivot screw d of the lever d, and nearer to the axis of the pivoted
lever do, and hence there will be a lessened arc of movement of that end of the
lever to which is attached the link d¹.
I have now described the mechanism, as employed in the present instance in
illustration of my invention, to give to the cloth-clamp B its lengthwise recip-
rocation or cycle of feed movement which may be said to be in common with the
lengthwise feed movement of the well-known Wheeler & Wilson buttonhole
sewing machine, to which I have heretofore referred; and I will now describe
wherein this feed movement has been changed or modified in the present instance.
In the machine referred to, by the operation of the heart cam of that machine,
the cloth-clamp has a cycle of feed movement which, to all intents and purposes,
is a straight line movement in one direction, a sharp turn, a straight line move-
ment in the opposite direction and a sharp turn to the starting point, and such
feed is practically progressive and continuous so as to overseam a buttonhole
such as is represented in Fig. 17.
In the present instance, the mechanism embodying my invention is adapted
to overseam a buttonhole such as is represented in Fig. 16 wherein there are two
straight lines or sets of stitches one along each side of the buttonhole slit, and
longer stitches crosswise of the buttonhole slit, at each end thereof, to provide
a so-called straight bar at each end of the buttonhole. In the making of such
buttonhole it is desirable to provide a different feed for the making of the bar
stitches from that required for the making of the side stitches. In my invention,
as embodied in the mechanism here shown, I have in substance two feeds, inde-
pendent in effect from each other; one feed controlled by certain portions of the
feed cam and by the upper ratchet wheel D) to make the side stitches, the other
feed controlled by other portions of the feed cam and by the lower ratchet
wheel D¹ and in the operation of the mechanism, when one feed is at work
the other feed is, in effect, idle, and vice versa, although, so far as the feed cam d¹
is concerned, I am enabled to make the cam groove therein control both feeds.
I have provided such mechanism so as to get a predetermined number of bar
stitches at each end of the buttonhole, irrespective of the number of side
stitches along the sides of the buttonhole, and vice versa.
Further, it depends merely upon whether those portions of the cam groove of

page_text: the feed cam d which cooperate with the lower ratchet wheel D¹ are made dead
or concentric with the axis of the teed cam d', or whether they are made slightly
eccentric as to whether the bar stitches are piled one upon another at each
end of the buttonhole, or are spread over a slight amount of cloth at each end
thereof. By thus making the mechanism which controls the stitching of the
bar stitches independent of the mechanism to feed the cloth-clamp and the making
of the side stitches I am enabled to accomplish two things, first, I can give
to the buttonhole a predetermined number of bar stitches at each end thereof,
irrespective of the size of the buttonhole and of the number of side stitches, and,
second, I am enabled to vary the number of bar stitches so as to make more or
less stitches constitute a bar, irrespective of the size of the buttonhole and of the
number of side stitches.
To refer now to the mechanism by which these results are accomplished, the
switch cam bacting on the cam follower 612 attached to the arm of the lever C,
pivoted as above referred to on the pivot stud c which is made fast in the bed-
plate as shown in Fig. 3, vibrates the lever C and such vibratory movement is,
as before indicated, communicated to the upper ratchet wheel D through the
connections 60, 68, 69, and pawl 1, so that a step-by-step rotary movement is
imparted to the upper ratchet wheel 1) to give lengthwise feed movement to the
cloth-clamp through the operation of the gear pinion d and feed cam d', whereby
said stitches are spaced. The cam groove of the geared feed cam has two
eccentric or cam portions separated by two dead or concentric portions. The
eccentric portions cooperate with the ratchet wheel D and give the lengthwise
feed movement back and forth of the cloth-clamp to enable the stitches to be
spaced at each side of the buttonhole. The lower ratchet wheel D¹, loose on the
spindle on which is placed the upper ratchet wheel D, as more clearly shown in
Fig. 2, is mutilated to have ratchet teeth on a portion only of its periphery (see
Fig. 14) which are intended to operate in connection with a pawl and
spring d, the duplicate of the spring actuated pawl 6, 15, provided for the
upper ratchet wheel. The pawl and spring 1, d. for the mutilated ratchet
wheel 1 are shown in Fig. 14. The pawl d for the ratchet wheel 1 is operated
by the connecting rod 18 secured in the slot in the vibratory lever C by the
bolt d, whereby the pawl 16 for the lower ratchet wheel D¹ is actuated synch-
ronously with the pawl 6" for the upper ratchet wheel D because of the vibration
of the lever C. It is apparent that the pawl do for the mutilated ratchet wheel D¹
while continuously operated with the upper pawl 61 is yet inactive so far as the
lower ratchet wheel D₁ is concerned, except when, by the rotation of the upper
ratchet wheel D the toothed portion of the lower ratchet wheel D' is brought around
to said pawl 16. As soon as a tooth in the mutilated ratchet wheel is brought
into a position to be engaged by the pawl do, that pawl, having a greater range
of movement (due to the fact that its connecting link 18 is secured in the slotted
lever C at a point farther removed from the axis of said lever than is the con-
necting rod which actuates the upper pawl 611), gives rotation to both ratchet
wheels, for the reason that it will sweep over a greater number of teeth of the
ratchet wheel D₁ than will the upper pawl on the same stroke of the vibrating
lever C and consequently the lower pawl will take effect to give to the lower
ratchet wheel D¹, and hence to both, a greater rotative movement than is possible
When the two ratchet
through the operation of the upper ratchet wheel D).
wheels are actuated by the pawl 16, which engages the lower ratchet wheel, the
roll which enters the cam groove of the feed wheel d enters the inactive or dead
portions of the said cam groove, whereby two things are accomplished, first, the
activity of the cam groove having ceased for the time being, the lengthwise feed
of the cloth-clamp is stopped, and second, opportunity is given the other parts
of the mechanism (to be referred to) to be so actuated as to place the longer bar
stitches at one end of the buttonhole during the cessation of lengthwise feed of
the cloth-clamp.
From the foregoing it will be noted that when both ratchet wheels are given

page_text: step-by-step movements through the activity of the upper pawl 6, the roller
which enters the cam groove in the feed cam d' cooperates with the eccentric
portions of said cam groove, and in consequence the cloth-clamp has a length-
wise step-by-step feed in one or the other direction, whereas when both ratchet
wheels are given step-by-step movements through the activity of the lower pawl,
acting in cooperation with the teeth of the mutilated ratchet wheel D', the roller,
cooperating with the cam groove of the feed cam is in one or the other of the
inactive or substantially inactive, portions of said groove, whereby the cloth-
clamp ceases to have any lengthwise movement.
Hence it is apparent that so long as the lower pawl 1, when in operation to
turn the ratchet wheels, gives to those ratchet wheels a greater range of move-
ment than can be given during the same time by the upper pawl, acting upon
the upper feed wheel, the lengthwise feed of the cloth-clamp is lessened or
stopped, and, on the other hand, when the lower pawl (though active, in that it
is moved by the vibrating lever) has no effect upon the mutilated or lower ratchet
wheel, owing to the absence of teeth on portions of said lower ratchet wheel,
there can be no stoppage of the lengthwise movement in one or the other
direction of the feed clamp, because during the time the lower pawl is inactive
to effect any movement of the lower ratchet wheel, the cloth-clamp is under the
domination of the upper pawl acting upon the teeth of the upper ratchet wheel,
and the roll is also under the domination of the eccentric portions of the cam
groove to give to said cloth-clamp a lengthwise movement. Thus, in effect, the
mechanism presents two independent feeds, one to give lengthwise movement
to the cloth-clamp and dominated by the upper ratchet wheel with its pawl, a
roller and eccentric portions of the cam groove of the feed cam and the other
which in this construction has no effect upon the cloth-clamp to feed it in any
direction because of the dead or inactive portions of the cam groove of the feed
cam d¹, and because the cloth-clamp at such times is under the domination of
the lower or mutilated ratchet wheel 1) and its pawl №16.
The cloth-clamp actuating device, as here illustrated, has the upper ratchet
wheel provided with teeth around its entire periphery, and the second or lower
ratchet wheel only partially provided with teeth. This arrangement of the teeth
on the two wheels is provided in view of the particular form of the groove in
the feed cam. It is the design of this machine that the upper ratchet wheel,
while governing the step-by-step feed movement of the cloth-clamp for the
overseaming of the buttonhole, shall receive the step-by-step rotative move-
ment given to the second or mutilated ratchet wheel at such time
as such feed wheel is actuated to bar the buttonhole. While this con-
struction is desirable for the particular design (see Fig. 16) used to illustrate
the operation of this device, yet in overseaming some other figures or to comply
with the demands of some manufacturers it might be necessary to give to the
second or under ratchet wheel a finer feed than that given to the upper ratehet
wheel. In such instance it would be necessary to make both feed wheels mutilated
ratchet wheels, that is, where teeth were formed on part of the periphery of one
wheel, the other would be devoid of teeth as to such part or parts. This would
permit either wheel being changed independent of the other; but constructed
as shown, the upper feed wheel must always be given a shorter step-by-step
feed movement than the lower.
The particular manner of arranging these two wheels as shown in the draw-
ings, is accomplished by giving to the cam groove of the feed cam d' a dwell or
inactive portion representing the fewest number of barring stitches which it is
proposed to put at the end of the buttonhole in combination with the coarsest
feed that it is intended to be used while placing these barring stitches, so that
where more barring stitches are desired a finer feed would be demanded for
overseaming the sides of the buttonhole, thus enabling one adjustment in the
vibrating lever C to follow the other without being obliged to transfer studs d
and 60 from their respective positions as shown in the drawings.

page_text: As above pointed out, in the employment of the mechanism shown in the draw-
ings, the barring stitches at each end of the buttonhole are laid while the cloth-
clamp is under the domination of the lower ratchet wheel D', and the cooperating
portions of the cam groove in the feed cam d. To make the edge and depth
stitches of the side stitching, and to locate the long bar stitches, it is essential
that the cloth-clamp have a jogging" movement at right angles to its length-
wise feed or cycle of feed movement. To obtain this movement in the present
instance the following mechanism is employed:
[
Below the base plate A on the lower end of the stud d, which carries the feed
cam d, is fixed a miter gear e which meshes with a similar miter gear a¹ fast
on the shaft e² held in the bearing e³. The shaft has fast thereon at its opposite
end a pinion which meshes into a pinion e secured to the pattern cam driving
shaft, suitably held in bearings e7, es, Figure 3, fastened to the underside of
the bed-plate A.
E is the pattern cam (see Figs. 5-9 inclusive) which in the present
instance is provided with a cam groove of different widths, which comprises two
narrow portions arranged alternately with two wider portions, each with parallel
sides. The purpose of the narrow portions is to control the position of the edge
and depth stitches in making the side stitching, while the wider portions are
to control the length of the bar stitches which may be placed at each end of a
buttonhole. It may be further premised that the length of the narrow portions
of the cam groove are made dependent upon those portions of the cam groove
of the feed cam d which cooperate with the upper ratchet feed wheel D to give
lengthwise movement to the cloth-clamp during the overseaming of the sides
of the buttonhole, while the length of the wider portions of the cam groove is
dependent upon and made relative to the portions of the cam groove of the
feed cam which cooperate with the lower ratchet wheel D' so as to dominate
the cloth-clamp during the making of the bar stitches at each end of the button-
hole. Cooperating with this pattern cam E is a stud or follower 2, (see Figs. 11
and 13) held in suitable guides e10 attached to the underside of the cloth-clamp
slide frame 4, (see Fig. 11). Aside from the matter of adjustment by means
such as are shown in Figs. 5. 8, 9 and 12, to get a certain amount of lost motion
for purposes which will be fully explained when description of the mechanism
shown in said views is given, the cam follower e' is virtually fast on the cloth-
clamp slide frame so as to act merely as a stud or pin projecting from said
slide frame to enter the cam groove of the pattern cam E. Thus employed, it
is evident that the side walls of the groove of the pattern cam will always act
as a stop to limit any reciprocation of the cam follower in said cam groove, what-
ever may be the width of the cam groove. The cloth-clamp slide frame b' is,
as before stated, reciprocated in the guide-ways 62, 63, and this reciprocation is
limited by the pattern cam.
To refer now to the mechanism by which reciprocation of the cloth-clamp
slide frame is accomplished, the vibrating lever C, which, as before described,
has a cam follower 612 engaging with the switch cam b to impart motion to the
ratchet wheels D, D', is provided with an auxiliary lever c (shown clearly in
Fig. 15) pivoted on the stud e¹, and having a slot to permit the link 613 to be
adjustably secured to said auxiliary lever, the opposite end of which is attached,
as at Z (see Fig. 3) to the cloth-clamp slide frame 64, so as to make a continuous
connection between said auxiliary lever and said slide frame. Motion is con-
veyed from the main vibrating lever C, through the springs c, c, which in the
present instance, have reenforcing springs 7, 7, both sets of springs being held
to the vibrating lever C by the screws . The screws c, 9, (see Fig. 15) are
adjusting screws to adjust the springs c with relation to the springs c, so that
the latter may have more or less effect upon the auxiliary lever c as required.
Under the influence of the springs the auxiliary lever will have, in the
absence of other controlling devices, a maximum throw, and will thus give to
the cloth-clamp slide frame a corresponding throw. But, with the present

page_text: mechanism embodying my invention, it is desired that the cloth-clamp slide
frame 6 shall have a certain amount of throw to make the side stitches, and a
greater throw to make the bar stitches. Under all conditions the auxiliary
lever c is intended to give to the cloth-clamp slide frame a throw equal to the
greatest throw demanded of the cloth-clamp slide frame, and it will now be
recognized that the purpose of the cam groove of the pattein cam E is to dominate
or control the throw of the cloth-clamp slide frame regardless of what might
otherwise be the throw of such frame through the operation of the auxiliary
lever. For instance, in making the side stitches of a buttonhole, the auxiliary
lever c through its spring connections with the main lever C will seek to give
to the cloth-clamp slide frame a throw of a length at least as great as the width
of the wide portions of the groove of the pattern cam E whereas the cam
follower ein such movement will be brought up against the side walls of one of
the narrow portions of the cam groove, and will thus positively prevent the slide
frame from having a greater throw or reciprocation than that equivalent to the
width of the narrow portions of the cam groove of said pattern cam E. The
remainder of the throw will be taken up by one or the other of the springs c.
In the same way, whatever may be the throw that would otherwise be given to
the cloth clamp slide frame in excess of the width of the wide portions of the
cam groove of the pattern cam E in the making of the bar stitches, the cloth-
clamp can only have a throw equivalent to the width of said wide portions of
said cam groove for the same reason, namely, because the cam follower e will
impact against the side walls of said wide portions of the cam groove, and pre-
vent excess of throw, and any excess will be compensated for by one or the
other of the springs co.
In this way it will be observed that the groove in the pattern cam E will
accurately and positively control the movements of the slide frame in exact
accord with the pattern of said cam groove. Under these circumstances it is
evident that pattern cams having cam grooves differing in design from the cam
groove of the pattern cam E may be substituted for said pattern cam E to over-
scam other designs than a barred buttonhole. It is evident that in case of such
change of pattern cam a corresponding change would be required in the cam
groove of the feed cam d, and such substitution would also involve an accidental
adjustment of the connecting mechanism.
It will be noted from an inspection of the cam groove of the pattern cam E
that the wide and narrow grooves end abruptly with sharp right angular corners.
In connection with such pattern cam I show in Fig. 7 an important feature of
my invention.
The prime member which gives vibratory and feed movements to the cloth-
clamp is the switch cam, and such cam is constructed to give movement to the
various parts that actuate the cloth-clamp during a certain portion of its revo-
Jution, and during such time all parts of the cloth-clamp actuating mechanism
are in motion. In the present construction the pattern cam is mounted upon its
driving shaft in such manner as to permit an instant change from the shorter
overseam stitch to the longer. It is evident from the manner in which all the
parts are driven that all of the cloth-clamp actuating parts are moved at the
same time, and if the pattern cam were rigidly held by the driving shaft the
follower which cooperates with the pattern cam groove would be liable to become
jammed against the end wall of the grooves unless the machine was built for a
given timing of the movements of the parts, and not capable of operation through
adjustment. To provide against any such difficulty in the operation of the cam
follower with relation to the end walls of the grooves I mount the pattern cam
on its driving shaft in such manner that it is rotated by a spring which holds
it in a registered position. but capable of yielding to the resistance of the
follower and permit the follower to be moved to a position which will enable
it to enter the narrow groove of the cam, and immediately after the spring will

page_text: again place the pattern cam in its registered position with relation to its driving
shaft.
Referring now to the mechanism which in the present instance embodies
this part of my invention, the pattern cam E (see Fig. 7) is loose on its shaft e
and is provided with a pin or stop g and with a socket g', the latter receiving
one end of a coiled spring 9³, the other end being held in a similar socket g³,
fast on a split or pinch collar G, which is splined by the spline g' on the
shaft. The pinch collar G is provided with the usual projecting lugs and
a tightening screw! 96, so as to enable it to be rigidly held upon its shaft e
Cooperating with the pin g on the pattern cam E is a lug g7, which is a part of
collar G. Under normal conditions the pin g abuts against the lug g. From
this construction it will be observed that motion of the shaft will be trans-
mitted to the pattern cam E through the collar and its spring. Now with this
construction, if the cam follower should in its movement lodge against any
of the end walls of the groove of the pattern cam E, excessive strain or breakage
of parts will be avoided, and an opportunity will be afforded the cam follower e
to be released from contact with such end walls and be allowed to enter the
narrow portions of the cam groove, by reason of the fact that the pattern cam E
will yield against the resistance of the cam follower due to the presence of the
spring, and the driving shaft ei be permitted to advance independent of the
pattern cam E until the follower takes its position in the narrower groove, when
the cam again assumes its nomal position with the pin g in contact with the
lug g' of the collar G.
Referring now to Fig. 3, the driving shaft for the pattern cam E is shown
as encircled by an adjustable bushing comprising a loose sleeve 98 held in a
split hanger g provided with pinch lugs and adjusting screw 910, gl, respectively,
so that upon release of the screw g, the sleeve can be adjusted in such hanger
and caused to force the cam E against the collar G, and then by tightening said
screw, hold the parts in said adjusted position.
Fig. 12 is a detailed view of a portion of the underside of the cloth-clamp
slide frame b showing the cam follower adjusting slides and the guide-ways for
the cam follower with the cam follower e removed therefrom.
Fig. 13 is a perspective of said cam follower . To refer now to the parts in
detail: el are the guide-ways for the cam follower, one of which is adjustably
secured in the usual manner to the slide frame b₁ by the screw h and the
screw ', to obtain adjustment to compensate for wear, and the other being
rigidly secured to or made a part of slide guide-way b*.
For the purpose of varying the length of the vibratory movement of the cloth-
clamp, as when it is desired to change the length of the overseam stitch, I have
provided the adjusting plates h², h³, which can be adjusted so as to permit the
cam follower e to slide in its guide-ways elo. The construction of the pattern
cam follower and the adjusting plates h2, h3, are such that when in their normal
position, as is shown by Figs. 3 and 11, that is, when the follower has no
movement in the guide-ways elo and when that portion of the pattern cam shown
in Fig. 9 is adjusted as shown in Fig. 5, the narrowest overseam stitch is pro-
duced and the motion given to the follower e by the adjustment of the plates h³
or and the adjustment of that portion of the pattern cam shown in Fig. 9 is
for the purpose of increasing the length of the overseam stitch and for properly
adjusting the edge stitch with relation to the buttonhole slit.
It will be understood that if either of the adjusting plates h², h³ is moved
back from the position as shown in Fig. 12 and held in such position by the
screw *, motion can be given to the cam follower e in its guide-ways e¹0 rela-
tively to such adjusted position of said plate h³ or h³. Such movement of the
cam follower e in its guide-ways el⁰ gives, in effect, a relative amount of play or
lost motion between the pattern cam E and the slide frame 6 whereby, in effect,
through the operation of the spring controlled vibrating auxiliary lever e the

page_text: slide frame is given a throw or reciprocation in excess of the throw which is
dominated by the pattern cam namely, a throw equivalent to that dominated by
the pattern cam plus the throw or movement of the cam follower in its guide-
ways elo. By such construction and relative adjustment of parts I am enabled
to variably increase the length of the overseam stitches of the buttonhole. While
the mechanism so far described enables me to vary the length of the overseam
stitches, yet the edge stitches of such lengthened overseam stitches would not
be properly located with relation to the buttonhole slit; but on the contrary
the edge stitches at one side of the buttonhole slit would be interlocked with the
edge stitches laid along the other side of said slit-provided another pattern
cam cut to suit were not employed. To obviate the use of various pattern
cams and to provide for the proper location with relation to the buttonhole slit
of the edge stitches of overseam stitches of increased length, the pattern cam E
is provided with an adjustable portion 5 (see Fig. 9). Fig. 5 is a view of the
pattern cam E complete with the adjustable portion in adjusted normal
position, whereas Fig. 8 shows the cam with the adjustable portion 5 removed
and Fig. 9 shows in perspective the adjustable portion eliminated from Fig. 8.
The overseaming of the buttonhole is commenced at the end 20, (see Fig. 16).
If the cycle of feed is in the direction of the arrows the left-hand side of the
buttonhole is overseamed first by the co-action of the cam follower and that
portion of the pattern cam E shown in Fig. 9, to be followed in overseaming the
last side or right-hand of the buttonhole, by the co-action of the cam follower
and that portion of the pattern cam shown in Fig. 8; on the other hand, if the
cycle of feed movement is in the opposite direction then the right-hand side of
the buttonhole is overseamed first by the co-action of the cam follower and that
portion of the pattern cam shown in Fig. 8, to be followed in stitching the last
or left-hand side of the buttonhole by the co-action of the cam follower with
that portion of the pattern cam illustrated in Fig. 9.
The adjustable portion 5 (see Fig. 9) of the pattern cam E is held in position
to the remainder of the pattern cam by means of the screw bolt 4 (see Figs. 5
and 8) which passes through the portion h5 and 7 (see Fig. 9) and the parts
maintained in the required position by the set screw h8 which enters an annular
groove (not shown) made in usual manner in the shank of the screw-bolt h
It has been pointed out that to get an overseam side stitch of increased length
by relative adjustment of one of the plates h2, h3 (see Fig. 12) with the cam
follower e and yet prevent interlocking of the edge stitches of such overseaming
stitches I provide the pattern cam with an adjustable portion as (Fig. 9).
When the adjustable portion h³ is normally in place in the remainder of the
pattern cam shown in Fig. 8 it must be moved on and by the screw-bolt h6 bodily
to the left (in Fig. 5) representing a movement to the right in Fig. 8, so as to
carry that portion of the pattern cam groove which dominates the stitching of
one side of the overseaming of the buttonhole, (which portion of the cam groove
is formed in the adjustable portion h of the pattern cam) bodily to one side
with relation to that portion of the cam groove of the pattern cam (cut in the
part shown in Fig. 8) which dominates the stitching of the other side of the
overseaming of the buttonhole.
By this adjustment, one side of the overseaming is always fixed and pre-
determined with relation to the buttonhole slit and is governed by the com-
plementary portion 10 of the cam groove found in the fixed or stationary part
of the pattern cam shown in Fig. 8; while the other side of the overseaming is,
by such adjustable portion 5, moved, in effect, bodily away from the fixed side
of overseaming and hence away from the buttonhole slit whereby the edge
stitches of such latter side of overseaming are properly located with relation to
the buttonhole slit and interlocking of the edge stitches is avoided. When this
is done the barring stitches must have a relatively increased length. To accom-
plish these results in a simple and expeditious manner by a single movement of
the adjustable part h³ I form those parts of the cam groove of the pattern cam

page_text: which dominate the laying of the barring stitches by walls, parts of which are
in the adjustable portion and part in the fixed portion shown in Fig. 8. The
walls 1 and 2 in the adjustable portion h are respectively complementary to the
walls 3, 4, in the fixed portion shown in Fig. 8 so that in the present instance
the cam groove, as a whole, of the pattern cam E, is divided into two equal parts
one part in the fixed portion of the pattern cam and the other part in the
adjustable portion h5 of said cam. Hence when the adjustable portion of the
pattern cam is moved bodily with relation to the fixed portion thereof, not only
is the one side of the overseaming moved or located with relation to the other
side of said overseaming and with relation to the buttonhole slit, but the portions
of the cam groove which dominate the barring are also widened out relatively
to the side stitches and to cam follower, and its adjusting plates, whereby the
barring stitches are lengthened relatively to the lengthened side stitches."
The matter of overseaming the right or left hand side of the buttonhole is
accomplished by changing the relative position of the pattern cam one half a
rotation with relation to the feed cam, and for the reason that the right or left
hand side of the buttonhole can be overseamed first by the shifting of the pattern
cam as described, the cam follower is made capable of movement to the right or
left of its normal position, so that it may properly co-act with the pattern cam
no matter what may be its adjusted position.
The adjusting plates h2, h3 are, at their inner ends where they cooperate with
the cam follower, bevelled in opposite directions; if the buttonhole is overseamed
in the direction of the cycle of feed movement indicated by the arrows and
adjustment is desired, the adjusting plate h³ is adjusted to increase the length
of the overseam stitch; if in the opposite direction the adjusting plate 2 is
adjusted for that purpose. This motion of the cam follower in opposite
directions is made necessary so that the variation in the length of the overseam
stitches shall be from the needle line to the right or left, depending upon which
side is overseamed first.
It has been pointed out that to reciprocate the cloth-clamp slide frame bs from
motion derived from the switch cam b, motion is transmitted from said cam to
the main vibrating lever C, thence through the springs co to the auxiliary lever ‹,
pivoted on the main lever C, thence by the connecting link 613 to the slide
frane b. Further, that motion transferred to the auxiliary lever c in excess of
that which is permitted by the pattern cam E to be given to the slide frame b
is taken up by the spring c. In order to relieve the switch cam of substan-
tially the greater part of the strain which would otherwise be thrown upon it
by the springs taking up the excess of throw, I have provided a peculiar and
novel construction of parts.
Referring now to Figs. 1 and 15, the main vibrating lever C, the auxiliary
lever c and the springs are shown in normal position, namely, that position
required when the needle is in the line of the button-hole slit and is about to
In such
descend to make an edge stitch alongside of the buttonhole slit.
position the springs 6 bear equally upon the opposite sides of the free end of
the auxiliary lever c, and the parts are maintained in position the same as if
the springs c were rigid instead of yielding.
It will be observed, too, that the free ends of the springs c6 are each provided
with an anti-friction roll 7, 8, which, in normal position of the parts (as shown
in Figs. 1 and 15) bear upon the auxiliary lever c at the outermost edges of its
front and back walls or surfaces where they join the outermost edges of the
wall or end surface of the free end of said lever. The end wall is divided sub-
stantially into two surfaces 9, 10, which are made slightly eccentric to the
axis of the auxiliary lever c and for the following purpose: as long as the
auxiliary lever is moved by the spring the parts maintain their relative position
shown in Fig. 15. As soon as the auxiliary lever is prevented from further
movement by the pattern cam E (as before pointed out) and the springs con-
tinue their movement with the main lever C, one of the springs co (for instance

page_text: that one contiguous to the surface 10) will advance slightly or move slightly
outward in the direction of the end wall of the free end of the auxiliary lever c
and instead of its 1oll 8 bearing with constantly increasing pressure upon the
auxiliary lever (due to the continued movement of the main lever C, and the
stoppage by the pattern cam of movement of the auxiliary lever) which pressure
would be thrown back upon the switch cam thus adding to its labors, the said
roll moves down over the eccentric surface 10 with a comparatively slight
pressure or strain whereby distension of the spring is substantially avoided and
The switch cam is relieved of labor which would otherwise be thrown upon it.
In the meanwhile, the roll 7 of the opposite spring recedes from the free end
of the auxiliary lever c, due to the fact that the movement of said lever has been
stopped by the pattern cam E and the roll 7 with its spring continues its move-
ment with the main lever C. In this connection attention is called to the adjust-
ing screws 12, 12, Fig. 15. When the parts are in normal position as shown in
Figs. 1 and 15 the screws 12 and 12 are so adjusted as to bring their heads up
against the springs 6 to take the pressure of said springs to such an extent
that the rolls 7 and 8 merely bear upon the auxiliary lever c without, or sub-
stantially without pressure, Under these conditions it will be observed that
when the roll 7 tends to recede from the auxiliary lever (as above referred to) the
elasticity of the spring carrying said roll 7 cannot interfere with such receding
movement because at such times the spring bears against the head of the adjust-
ing screws 12.
Upon the reverse movement of the switch cam to get a reverse movement of
the slide frame b, the spring c carrying the roll 7 becomes the active spring to
move the auxiliary lever c, and in this instance, as before, all the parts move
in unison until there is a stoppage in the movement of said auxiliary lever
when the roll 7 advances slightly, due to the continued movement of the main
lever C, when said roll will move down the surface 9 to prevent distention of its
spring and the roll 8 of the opposite spring will recede from the auxiliary lever-
the movement of the parts being a mere reversal of that previously described.
The springs c (see Fig. 15) are adjustably secured to the main lever C by
means of the screws 8, c, which pass through elongated slots (not shown) in
the springs and enter the lever C. To adjust the spring rollers 7 and 8 with
relation to the surfaces 9 and 10 the screws c, care loosened, the screws clo, ell
adjusted as required to move the spring c endwise in either direction whereupon
the screws 8, are then tightened.
In connection with the piesent cloth-clamp actuating mechanism I prefer to
use the stitch-forming mechanism of the Wheeler & Wilson 110 Sewing Machine,
referred to; and the usual arm carrying the stitch-forming mechanism is omitted
from the drawings simply to admit of a clearer illustration of that part of my
invention which relates to the mechanism attached to the bed plate.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is:-
1
1. In a buttonhole sewing machine, stitch-forming mechanism, a cloth-clamp,
mechanism, including a feed cam, for changing the relative position of the cloth-
clamp and the stitch-forming mechanism, a plurality of ratchet feeds, each
ratchet feed operating in conjunction with some portion or portions of the feed
cam independent of the remaining ratchet feed and of the remaining portions
of said feed cam, automatic cloth-clamp controlling devices, including a pattern
cam, a cam follower, and devices to permit said pattern cam to yield to its
follower, a switch cam, and connections, including a yielding vibrator, between
said switch cam and cloth-clamp, in combination, substantially as described.
2. In a buttonhole sewing machine, stitch-forming mechanism, a cloth-clamp,
mechanism for imparting thereto a progressive feed movement, mechanism for
changing the relative position of the stitch-forming mechanism and cloth-clamp,

page_text: a sectional cam having in its periphery a pattern cam groove, each section having
a portion of the peripheral pattern cam groove, and said sections capable of longi-
tudinal movement upon the cam shaft to permit relative adjustment of said
sections, devices to relatively move said sections longitudinally upon the cam
shaft and relatively to adjust and positively hold in adjusted position the said
sections thereon, mechanism for imparting to said cam a single rotation during
the formation of the buttonhole, a cam follower to enter the pattern cam groove,
and connections between said follower and cloth-clamp, in combination, whereby
the location of the overseam stitches is determined with relation to the button-
hole slit, substantially as described.
3. In a machine for overseaming buttonholes, stitch-forming mechanism, a
cloth-clamp, mechanism for changing the relative position of the cloth-clamp and
stitch-forming mechanism, and stitch-adjusting devices including a spring-
governed vibrator and adjustable stops to affect the action of the springs, one
independent of the other, when moved from their normal or central position, in
combination, substantially as described.
4. In a machine for overseaming buttonholes, stitch-forming mechanism, a
cloth-clamp, and mechanism for changing the relative position of the cloth-clamp
and stitch-forming mechanism, including a yielding vibrator for said cloth-clamp
and controller springs with roller bearings for said yielding vibrator for yield-
ingly reciprocating said cloth-clamp, in combination, substantially as described.
5. In a machine for overseaming buttonholes, stitch-forming mechanism, a
cloth-clamp, and mechanism for changing the relative position of the cloth-clamp
and stitch-forming mechanism, including a vibrator, springs having roller bear-
ings and adjusting devices to effect a relative adjustment between said roller
bearings and the members with which they co-act, in combination, substan-
tially as described.
G. In a buttonhole sewing machine, stitch-forming mechanism, a cloth-clamp,
mechanism for changing the relative position of the cloth-clamp and the stitch-
forming mechanism, including stitch adjusting devices for increasing or diminish-
ing the length of the side stitches of the buttonhole and coincidently increasing
or diminishing the length of the bar stitches, so that whatever the length of the
side stitches may be, the bar stitches shall overlap them by a constant difference,
in combination, substantially as described.
7. In a buttonhole sewing machine, stitch-forming mechanism, a cloth-clamp,
mechanism for changing the relative position of the stitch-forming mechanism
and the cloth-clamp, including a pattern cam shaft, a pattern cam loose relatively
to its shaft and provided with a peripheral cam groove of varying width, a
resilient connection between said cam and its shaft, a cam follower adapted to
enter and cooperate with said cam groove, and connections for the follower with
the cloth-clamp, in combination, substantially as described.
8. In a buttonhole sewing machine, stitch-forming mechanism, a cloth-clamp,
and mechanism for changing the relative position of the cloth-clamp and the
stitch-forming mechanism, including an adjustable pattern cam, a cam follower
operatively connected with said cloth-clamp and pattern cam, adjustable con-
nections between said cam follower and cloth-clamp, whereby upon adjustment
of said cam follower with relation to the cloth-clamp to effect a change in the
length of the overseam stitches, relative adjustment can also be made in said
adjustable cam, to properly locate the overseam stitches with relation to the
buttonhole slit, in combination, substantially as described.
9. In a machine for overseaming buttonholes or other designs, stitch-forming
devices, a cloth-clamp, mechanism including a feed cam for changing the relative
positions of the cloth-clamp and the stitch-forming mechanism, automatic cloth-
clamp controlling devices including a pattern cam, a cam follower, and devices
to permit said pattern cam to yield to its follower, and a plurality of ratchet
feeds, each ratchet feed operating in conjunction with some portion, or portions.

page_text: of the feed cam independent of the remaining ratchet feed and of the remaining
portions of said feed cam, in combination, substantially as described.
main
10. In a machine for overseaming buttonholes, stitch-forming mechanism, a
cloth-clamp, mechanism for changing the relative positions of the cloth-clamp
and the stitch-forming devices, stitch adjusting devices including a
vibrating lever, and an auxiliary lever yieldingly connected with the main lever
and positively connected with the cloth-clamp, and automatic cloth-clamp con-
trolling devices to control the vibration of the cloth-clamp and thus regulate
the length of the overseaming stitches irrespective of the vibration of the main
lever.
11. In a machine for overseaming buttonholes, stitch-forming devices, a cloth-
clamp, mechanism for changing the relative positions of the cloth-clamp and
the stitch-forming devices, stitch adjusting devices including a main vibrating
lever and an auxiliary lever yieldingly connected with the main lever and
positively connected with the cloth-clamp, and automatic cloth-clamp controlling
devices including a pattern cam and cam follower, the said cam follower being
connected with the cloth-clamp, whereby vibration of the cloth-clamp is trans-
mitted to the follower and such movements are controlled by said pattern cam,
in combination, substantially as described.
Dated this Twenty-ninth day of Apr 1000.
SAMUEL HICKOX WHEELER.
Haseltine, Lake & Co.,
45, Southampton Buildings, London, W.C.,
Agents for the Applicant.