Year: 1887

page_text: Date of Application, 14th July, 1887
Complete Left, 22nd Mar., 1888
Complete Accepted, 27th Apr., 1888
ALFRED HANNIBAL 29 Shrubland Grove Queens Road Dalston N. Boot Maker do
hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
--
"
That instead of using nails, pegs, glue, solution, &c.—all of which are more or less
objectionable-in attaching the upper parts of boots and shoes to the inner soles for
Machine Sewn Goods; My method is simply to draw the upper over the toe of the
Last; and secure it with a tack-to be ultimately withdrawn. The edge of the upper
part, lying over the innersole, is punched round at suitable distances according to
substances of material used. A cord of hemp is passed through these holes-and the
two sides are instantaneously drawn together. The top being really laced-not braced.
_ over the innersole. This will prevent the breakages in both leather and linings
caused by the undue pressure of the pincers.
Boots and Shoes, lasted in the way I here propose will not only be a saving to the
manufacturer, in using lighter inner soles than he otherwise could do, but render
the Goods more flexible thus giving greater comfort to the wearer.

page_text: An Improved Method of Lasting Boots and Shoes.
ALFRED HANNIBAL 29 Shrubland Grove Queen's Road Dalston, N Boot Maker do
hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to
be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement :-
:-
My invention relates to the manufacture of boots and shoes and comprises various
improvements as hereinafter set forth.
Handsewn boots or shoes as now made whether pump or double soled boots or
shoes possess many disadvantages, for example, in pumps the stitches usually give way
long before the leather is worn out and double soled boots or shoes are generally
insecure, the welt is liable to give way and permit the entrance of water, moreover
pain and discomfort to the wearer are frequently caused by the curling up of the edge
of the innersole where it is bevelled and by the wooden pegs which are driven through
the innersole.
Rivetted boots are so objectionable by reason of their stiffness and rigidity and the
general discomfort which they cause to the wearer that they are seldom made except
to withstand great wear and tear.
Machine made boots and shoes as now made are objectionable because the nails
used in these boots or shoes make them very stiff and unyielding so that the pressure
of the foot sometimes causes the upper to project over the edges of the sole on one side
of the boot or shoe, the appearance of which is thus impaired long before it is worn out.
Moreover after the boot or shoe has been much used the leather gradually sinks by
reason of the pressure of the foot so that the nails project above the leather. In
addition to which the nails corrode and so rot the leather.
By my invention I obviate these defects and inconveniences and make a boot or
shoe in such a manner that it will be more pliable and will yield more readily to the
natural movement of the foot of the wearer and will therefore insure a greater degree
of comfort than a boot or shoe made according to the methods of manufacture
heretofore employed and it will be far more durable than those hitherto made; and
when made by this method they can be re-soled without using nails or rivitts as is the
case in ordinary machine sewn boots and shoes.
The usual method of uniting the upper to the innersole in the process of manufacture
of machine sewn goods is to hold the edges of the lower portion of the upper over the
lower face of the innersole and to secure it thereto by pegs or small nails called
tingles. The clump or middle sole is then secured to the said innersole and upper by
nails the heads of which are pointed and protrude so as to enter the outer sole when
the latter is applied. This method although generally adopted has several important
disadvantages one of which is that frequently when the boot or shoe has been worn
for a short time some of these nails become loose and their ends or points project over
the upper surface of the innersole thereby subjecting the wearer to much annoyance
and pain by reason of their ends or points piercing into the foot.

page_text: But according to my invention I obviate. these disadvantages by making machine
sewn boots or shoes in such a manner that I avoid the permanent use of nails or pegs
from heel to toe; but I use a few nails or pegs at the rear or heel portion of the boot
or shoe and at the extreme end of the toe.
In making a machine sewn boot or shoe without nails or pegs or the like, excepting
those hereinbefore specified 1 proceed as follows that is to say.
I first lay the innersole upon the last, I then place the upper with the lining
attached thereto on the last drawing it over the toe and securing it with tacks which
can be ultimately withdrawn. I then draw the edges of the said lining over the edge
of the innersole. I then turn back the upper and secure the edges of the lining to
the innersole and I insert the heel stiffener in the proper position between the lining
and the upper.
A piece of canvas or other stout woven fabric cut on the cross or
diagonally, say from one inch to one inch and a half in width is then placed around
toe and along the edges of the sole to the waist so as to form the side lining, with the
addition of a leather toe puff. This piece of canvas or other fabric prevents
the formation of rucks or folds in the lining and keeps the same perfectly smooth.
A few tacks or nails are driven temporarily through the portion of the upper and
lining that are folded over the innersole for the purpose of retaining the upper and
the lining in their proper positions. I then draw a cord of hemp or other material
through holes already punched round the edges of the upper leather at suitable
distances according to the substance of material used and by this they are gradually
drawn together thus lacing not bracing the top or upper leather, whereupon the said
nails or tacks temporarily inserted are withdrawn. As the portion of the upper folded
over the innersole does not entirely cover the bottom thereof, a recess or cavity is left
which I fill up with cork or felt or other suitable material before the outer sole is
put on.
Having thus particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what 1
claim is
First. The improved manufacture substantially as above set forth, whereby I produce
machine sewn boots and shoes without nails pegs or the like from heel to toe.
Second. That having no nails or the like from heel to toe in the boots or shoes so
made by me, the risk or probability of the foot of the wearer being hurt by them is
entirely obviated and done away with.
Third. That boots or shoes made by my method are perfectly flexible and yield to
the natural action of the foot when walking, thus giving perfect comfort to the wearer
and they are thus even superior to hand sewn goods.
Fourth. That boots and shoes made by my method can be re-soled without the use
of nails or pegs and so remain always flexible.