Improvements in Sewing Machines.
Year: 1896

page_text: Date of Application, 24th Nov., 1896-Accepted, 27th Mar., 1897
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Sewing Machines.
I, JAMES YATE JOHNSON, of 47 Lincoln's Inn Fields, in the County of
London, Gentleman, do hereby declare the nature of this invention (which has
been communicated to me from abroad by the Willcox & Gibbs Sewing Machine
Company, a Corporation organized under the laws of the State of New York, and
having its principal office at No. 658 Broadway, in the City of New York, United
States of America) and in what manner the same is to be performed to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This invention relates specially to sewing machines which make a lock stitch by
means of a continuously revolving hook or looper which carries a loop of thread
from the needle around a bobbin, contained in a bohhin-case beneath the throat-
plate; but as will be clearly seen, parts of the invention may be used in machines
of a different type from that herein described.
The prime object of the invention is to produce a lock-stitch sewing machine
capable of operating at a very high speed with sinoothness, ease, and but little
noise, upon either thick or thin work. A machine constructed as hereinafter
described has been successfully operated in experimental trials at speeds varying
from three thousand to four thousand stitches per minute, with little noise or jar.
To attain this result it has been necessary to effect improvements and special
ccnstructions of parts of the machine, as will be fully set forth.
The principal difficulty encountered in attempting to sew at the high speed
indicated, is the breaking and chafing of the thread, which runs with great rapidity
over or in contact with metallic surfaces. This may occur from any one of
numerous causes. The loop of needle thread must be drawn down and carried
around the bobbin-case, in a very small fraction of a second, as the rotary hook
(in the type of machine herein illustrated) makes three revolutions to one
reciprocation of the needle. Furthermore, great care in construction and
contrivance have been required to permit the running of the thread through the
take-up, tension, and other parts, and to prevent twisting or kinking, and slack
loops occurring in the thread.
Another great difficulty, which has been overcome by the present invention,
arises from the necessity of employing a great quantity of oil to lubricate the
working parts, and from the tendency of the oil to scatter and spread. It is, of
course, highly important to prevent oil from reaching the work or threads, or any
parts which come into contact therewith.
The invention, and the advantageous results secured thereby, will be fully
understood from the following detailed description, with reference to the accom-
panying drawings. It will be understood, however, that many of the details or
features of construction may be modified without departing from the essence or
spirit of the invention.
Figure 1 is a front elevation of a machine containing the improvements
constituting the present invention, part of the mechanism beneath the work-plate
being in section;
Figure 2 is an end elevation looking at the head of the machine, the bed plate
being shewn in section and the hanger being removed to expose the bobbin-case;
Figure 3 is a vertical section through the hook, bobbin-case and adjacent parts,
drawn to an enlarged scale.

page_text: Figure 5 a section, and Figure 6 a front view of the rotary hook drawn to an
enlarged scale.
Figures 7 and 8 are elevations from opposite sides and
Figure 9 an edge view of the bobbin case, drawn to an enlarged scale ;
Figure 10 is a top view of the bobbin case;
Figure 11 is a detail in vertical section through the thread pin ;
Figure 12 shews, in perspective, parts of the needle, needle-shield, presser-foot,
and needle-plate;
Figure 13 is an under side view of the throat-plate;
Figure 14 is a view shewing the course of the thread from the bobbin-case
through the needle-hole in the throat plate.
Figure 15 is a plan of the presser-foot ;
Figure 16 is a front view of the bearing which carries the hook-shaft ;
Figure 17 is a diagram illustrating the formation of stitches;
Figure 18 shows a form of oil recess under the bed plate ;
Figure 19 is a side elevation of the hanger and bobbin-case detached;
Figure 20 is an end elevation of a sewing-machine embodying other features of
the invention;
Figures 21, 22 and 23 are details in elevation (partly in section) illustrating the
eccentric take-up pin in various positions ;
Figure 24 is a detail (drawn to an enlarged scale) showing the eccentric take-up
pin in section;
Figures 25, 26 and 27 are views of the thread guard;
Figure 28 is a vertical section of the thread-controller and eccentric take-up
pin;
Figures 29 and 30 represent in vertical section, and in elevation, respectively the
thread-controller drawn to a larger scale;
Figures 31 and 32 are vertical sections at right angles to each other of the head
of the machine; and Figure 33 is a rear elevation of the lower portion of the
head.
Figures 34 and 35 represent in elevation and vertical section respectively
another form of take-up, embodying features of the invention;
Figure 36, is a section on the line 16, and Figure 37 is a section (enlarged) on
the line 17 (Figure 34);
Figure 38 is an elevation of part of the inner take-up plate, and
Figure 39 illustrates in section and elevation another form of thread-controller;
Figures 40 and 41 are elevations at right angles to each other of the mechanism
for driving the rotary hook;
Figure 42 is a view similar to Figure 41 illustrating a modification;
Figure 43 is an elevation of part of the feed-actuating mechanism, the goose
neck or arm being partly in section and being partly broken away to shew the
interior;
Figure 44 is a vertical section of the feed actuating mechanism the section being
parallel to the driving shaft ;
Figure 45 is an elevation of the right hand side of the eccentric support;
Figure 46 is a face view of the adjusting cam;
Figure 47 is a section transverse to the shaft illustrating the thread-pull-off
actuated from the feed eccentric ;
Figure 48 is a sectional elevation of the pull-off and its operating mechanism ;
Figure 49 is à plan view of the pull-off;
Figure 50 is an elevation, partly in section, of the entire feed-mechanism;
Figure 51 is a vertical section, partly in elevation, of the parts of said feed-
mechanism situated in the goose neck or hollow arm of the machine;
Figure 52 is a section of part of the bed plate of the machine shewing in
elevation the mechanism situated beneath the throat-plate;
Figures 53 and 54 are enlarged details, illustrating the construction of a joint in
the feed-mechanism;
.:

page_text: Figure 55 is a detail in section of the end bearing of one of the rock-shafts;
Figure 56 is an elevation partly in section of the head of the machine,
illustrating the tension mechanism;
Figures 57 to 66 are details of the tension-mechanism;
Figure 67 is an enlarged view of the pin for connecting the presser-bar to its
plunger;
Figure 68 is a sectional elevation illustrating the thread shield and needle-
threader;
Figures 69 to 72 are detail views illustrating the needle-threader.
The machine illustrated in these drawings is constructed to give the hook-
shaft D three revolutions to one of the main or driving shaft, which turns in
bearings in the stationary arm or goose-neck B, but the improvements, or many
of thein, are not limited to machines having that characteristic. It also has a
rotary take-up H as hereafter described, the needle-bar F, and the presser foot
bar F, with mechanism of any usual or suitable kind for operating these parts.
The rotary-hook K on the end of shaft D is, in its general form an I mode of
operation, the same as heretofore used, being cup-shaped, so as to enclose the
bobbin-case. The shaft D has a bearing in the block 6 depending from the bed-
plate B' of the machine. This bearing must be plentifully supplied with oil for
which purpose the vertical oil-hole & in the bed-plate B' is provided.
In order that oil may not overflow and spread over the bed-plate, an overflow
passage (Figures 1 and 16) intersects the vertical oil-hole at a point a little
below the bed-plate, this overflow passage extending nearly horizontally through
the block and connecting with a downwardly curved pipe . The space
between the bearing and the overflow passage constitutes an oil reservoir or
receptacle.
The rotary-hook K is attached to its shaft by a set-screw d (Figure 3). It has
been found in practice that oil will work along the shaft D and out by the screw-
hole, no matter how tightly the screw d may be fitted. After once reaching the
outside of the hook it readily spreads over the same and comes into contact with
the thread. It is important to prevent this, and for that purpose an annular
flange constituting an oil-guard is interposed between the set-screw d and the
main body of the hook, the flange having an angle at its periphery so that the oil
cannot pass to the body of the hook but is thrown off by centrifugal force when
the latter is in motion. When at rest the oil gathered on the flange will flow down
its vertical face and drop off. The oil thrown off the hook must be prevented
from falling on it again, and to this end a recess is formed on the underside of
the bed-plate, provided with a rib or guard (Figures 1, 3 and 16). The latter
curves downward for a certain distance and is connected with the vertical face of
bracket by backwardly inclined drip surfaces b, so that the oil will be safely
conducted back to the outside of the bracket, from which it can drip without
damage.
The recess 63 may be annular so as to embrace or completely surround the
flange k. This construction is shown in Figure 18. At the bottom of this recess
is an oil-outlet or drip opening b.
The interior of the hook is made slightly larger than the bobbin case G, which
contains the bobbin G', so as to afford room for the passage of the thread between
the case and hook. The interior diameter of the hook is enlarged at one part to
receive the rim, of the hobbin case, the enlarged portion forming an annular
vertical surface 2 against which the rim of the bobbin-case rests. The rim of the
bobbin-case is not continuous, but is cut away, as shown in Figures 7 and 8, leaving
three segments g, 9, 9. The cut or notch 3 in front of the segment g' is the space
into which the needle descends. It is made deep, as shown in Figures 3 and 10,
to afford ample room for the loop to spread out and be taken by the point 4 of the
hook. The latter carries the loop forward into the space between the segments gg.
Heretofore there was a liability of the thread being caught between the shoulder 40
inside the hook (formed by the change from the larger to the smaller diameter

page_text: thereof) and the abutment formed by the end of segment g'. This would happen
if the thread, instead of slipping quickly back over the shoulder 40 should hang
there. In order that the loop may quickly pass this interior shoulder, the inner
edge of the hook, formed by the oblique cut 41 instead of being straight, as
heretofore, is deflected between the points 5, 6 where it crosses the shoulder 40,
being between those points nearly parallel with the outer edge. Consequently
the loop will slip back quickly as far as the point 6, and thus avoid being caught
between the shoulder on the hook, and the segment gl, of the rim.
The uction of the hook in passing a loop taken from the needle around the
bobbin case will be readily understood by persons familiar with the operation of
machines of this class. The hook entering the loop slips quickly through it until
by its change of position the inner strand which is over or inside the cut 41,
forming the point of the hook, and under the overhanging strip or loop-detainer k
encounters the inclined edge k, by which the loop is twisted and the inner strand
caused to pass down the left hand or outer face of the bobbin-case, between it and
the hanger M. What was originally the onter strand (or that end of the loop
which goes through the needle eye to the take up) slips down to the end of the
cut 41 reaching the back of the bobbin-case, and passes between it and the hook.
The general operation of forming a stitch is thus the same as in the machines of
the earlier patents.
The support L of the bobbin-hanger M is pivoted on a pin 7 between the forked
ends 8 of a bracket 90 which is fastened by a screw to the projection b in which
the hook-shaft D has its bearing. A spring latch 60 such as heretofore used
retains the hanger in itn. operative position (shewn in Figures 1 and 3). By
depressing the latch the support L can be tilted downward for removal and
replacement of the bobbin case.
The hanger M is disk-shaped and has on its upper edge a projection or stop M
(Fig. 3) by which the bobbin-case G is held from rotation. The stop M has a
recess m in which the needle loop spreads on the left-hand side of the needle.
For suspending the bobbin-case from the hanger when its weight is not sustained
by the bobbin-thread it (the bobbin-case) has on its face near the upper edge
thereof horizontal projections 9, 10 which overlie and rest loosely upon the curved
edge of the disk-shaped hanger, and are curved upwardly on opposite sides of the
needle-passage 3, and embrace between them the stop M. Heretofore the flange
by which the bobbin-case was suspended was undercut and the edge of the hanger
had a corresponding raised portion or edge to take into the undercut recess. As
shown in Figs. 9 and 11 the under or bearing surface of the flanges 9, 10 are plain
and horizontal in cross-section, so that there is nothing to prevent movement of the
bobbin-case towards the hook except contact of the segments of the rim with
the annular surface 2 of the hook. It follows that the thread is drawn between
the bobbin-case and hanger with much less resistance than heretofore and is less
likely to be chafed or broken. Normally the bobbin-case is suspended by the
bobbin-thread from the cloth, so that the loop of upper thread has a free passage
between the case and hanger, and the surfaces of the projections 9, 10 are smooth
and rounded so that the outer strand of the loop can slip easily by them.
The bobbin-case being thus suspended and the peripheral surfaces of the
segments g. 9 being brought into contact with the interior of the enlarged part of
hook K, the latter in its rapid rotation has the effect of urging the vertical face of
projection 9 against the adjacent side of the stop M' of the hanger.
Between these two surfaces the thread loop must pass when it is drawn-up by
the take-up. Owing to the friction of the hook upon the bobbin-case it has been
found that the thread encounters considerable resistance in its effort to effect a
passage between the surfaces referred to, and this resistance was a cause of breakage
ot the thread. To counteract this friction caused by the hook, the bobbin thread 12
Figs. 7 and 14) instead of being carried in a substantially vertical direction from
the face of the bobbin-case to the needle hole, as heretofore, is now arranged so
that the pull upon it is in a direction approximately tangential to the bobbin-case.

page_text: As shown (Fig. 14) the thread 12 is led in a thread groove 13 along the base of
segment g¹ and thence under a thread pin 17 from which it passes up in an oblique
direction (opposite to that of the rotation of the hook) through the needle-hole 25
to the cloth. As the latter advances by the action of the feed, it is clear that the
pull on the bobbin-case, hesides tending to lift the latter, as heretofore, also tends
to turn it axially in the direction opposite to the rotation of the hook. This
tangential pull is sufficient to counteract the pressure of the bobbin-case against
its stop to such an extent as to enable the thread to effect its passage without
injurious resistance between the two adjacent surfaces, and to avaid breakage at
this point.
As clearly shown in Figures 8 and 14 the rear side or wall of the bobbin case G
is cut away forming two openings on opposite sides of a central web or strip g'.
This construction reduces the weight of the bobbin-case, but its main object is to
provide openings through which, by the action of the thumbs of the operator, the
bobbin can be pressed out of its case.
The bobbin case G has heretofore been hung on a hook or rim on the hanger,
but in the present construction the edge of the hanger M and the under surfaces of
the suspending flanges 9 and 10 on the hobbin-case are made smooth, as already
pointed out. Hence it is desirable to provide means to support the bobbin-case
and hold it in place on the hanger while it is being introduced into the hook.
this end the bracket 8. to which the hanger-support L is pivotted, has on each of
its forked ends a curved rib or flange 8 (Figures 1, 3, and 19) the edge of the rib
or flange being an arc struck from pivot 7 as a centre. When the hanger is
thrown down, as indicated in Figure 19, to introduce the bobbin-case, the latter
rests on the flanges 8, the segment of the rim being between them. As the
hanger is gradually raised to its normal position these flanges continue to support
the bobbin-case, which slides over them, until it is introduced into the hook. In
depressing the hanger to remove the bobbin-case the latter is in the same manner
supported by the flanges 8*.
Reference has already been made to the fact that the peripheral rim of the
bobbin-case is cut away. This has been found very advantageous on account of
the lightness thereby secured. The perforations 15 in the segments g g' and the
perforations 16 in the walls of the bobbin-case are made with the saine object, in
order that the loop of upper thread may encounter the less resistance in its passage
around the bobbin-case and between the latter and the hanger.
The cutting away of the rim, however, has other important advantages, as will
now be pointed out. A space is thereby afforded on one side of the case for the
tension spring 14, which is placed on the periphery of the case. The thread 12 is
led from the bobbin through a diagonal cut 36 in the case directly under the
tension spring 14, whence it passes to the needle-hole in the direction above
pointed out. This gives the thread a very direct course, avoiding undesirable
bends and turns, which tend to produce irregularities in the tension.
greatly facilitates the operation of threading in inserting a full bobbin. After
passing along thread-groove 13 (by which it is kept out of contact with the loop of
upper thread) the bobbin-thread goes under the guide-pin 17 already referred to;
which performs the function of a thread-eye, but which is so constructed that the
thread can be readily inserted in proper relation thereto. To this end a thin metal
shield 18 (Figures 9-11) projects upwardly from the bobbin-case and has a
perforation 19 through which the pin 17 slightly projects. The perforation is
enough larger than the pin for the thread to be easily inserted between the latter
and the edge of the perforation. The top of the pin is bevelled off, as well shown
in Figures 9 and 11. To insert the thread it is brought over the pin 17 in the
groove or space formed between the face of the bobbin-case and the shield 18. It
is then tightened and pressed downward causing it to slide across the bevelled
end of pin 17 between it and the edge of perforation 19, until it reaches the
under side of the pin, when it springs back into liue, resting finally in the groove 20
in the pin 17. The construction described constitutes what may be called a self-

page_text: threading arrangement. Owing to the groove 20 and the presence of shield 18, the
thread cannot escape after being properly placed.
The space furnished by cutting away the rim of the bobbin-case on the side
-opposite to that occupied by the tension spring 14, affords room for a thread-
-detainer m which is in the form of an approximately semi-circular lug projecting
from the hanger M (Figures 1 and 7). The function of this device is important.
It is understood that the hook performs one or more (in the machine shown two)
idle revolutions in order to give time for the rotary take up, with its gradual
method of operation, to draw up the loop. The take-up begins to act when the
loop passes the lowest part of the bobbin case, but before it has appreciably
tightened the loop, the point of the hook will be again approaching the thread as
the latter is being drawn up. At this time it is important that the strand of the
needle-loop, which is being drawn up behind the bobbin-case, should be held to the
right of the point of the hook, otherwise the latter might pass to the wrong side of
the thread and consequently break it. To aid in holding the thread out of the
way of the hook, a horn 22 is formed by a nearly horizontal cut 23, ander the
segment g at the rear thereof (Figures 3, 7, and 10). This cnt is curved upwards
in a direction approximating a circular are (Figures 3 and 9) forming a thread
passage, so that the strand after passing under the horn 22, emerges vertically in a
space 24 between the horn 22 and a thin wall or shield 45 (Figures 9 and 10) and
is thus held out of the way of the hook. In order that the desired operation of
holding the loop from being caught by the hook may be performed with absolute
certainty, it is necessary to contrive means to avoid the slackening and bulging up
of the loop after being cast-off by the hook. Were the thread free to spring by
its elasticity or twist in any direction, it would not always enter the cut 23 and
pass under and around horn 22. To ensure this, is the function of the detainer m,
which opposes itself as an obstacle to the progress of the loop causing the inner
straud to take the shortest direction to the needle hole, which is under the horn 22,
and keeping it taut until the take-up draws upon it. The detainer m is, of course,
useful apart from the devices employed to shield the loop from the point of the
hook.
The needle-hole 25 in the throat-plate usually has a rounded corner at its upper
end and is countersunk beneath. According to this invention the needle hole 25 has
a nearly circular opening at the upper surface of the throat-plate S, but has on the
underside an extension or groove 26 extending rearwardly, that is to say in the
direction of the feed of the cloth (Figures 13 and 14). This groove lies to one
side (the right side) of the axis of the needle-hole. The function of this groove is
to hold the end of the loop which is attached to the cloth (and which for distinction
will be called the outer strand since it goes outside the bobbin case) in proper
relation to the needle puncture to insure the proper and regular laying of the
stitch. The diagram (Figure 17) illustrates the appearance of the stitch in regular
sewing. The circles p represent a series of punctures in the cloth. The end p¹ of
a straud from the preceding stitch descends into the puncture forming the loop
indicated in dotted lines. The end p2 of the ascending or inuer strand emerges at
the left of the puncture, and thread from this point to the next puncture runs in an
oblique direction. In looping around the bobbin-case the strand descending from
point p' is twisted by the book and carried outside or to the left of the case, while
the ascending strand p passes behind or to the right of the bobbin case as already
explained. The strand p first referred to has therefore a tendency to slip over
to the left side of the needle puncture, producing an irregular and defective stitch.
This is entirely obviated by the thread-groove 26 in the throat-plate, into
which the strand is drawn by the hook and which holds the thread to the right
of the needle, causing it to assume the proper position as the loop is drawn up.
On the other hand the ascending or inner strand p³ should lie on the left hand
side of the needle puncture. It is guided and held in this position by the thread
slit 28 in the presser foot (Figures 12 and 15) extending rearwardly from the
needle hole 27 in the foot. This slit or guide lies as shown to the left of the axis

page_text: of the hole 27 and its action on the thread will be readily understood from the
explanation given of the action of thread groove 26. The thread slit 28 has another
function which will now be described.
Heretofore difficulty has always been encountere l in maintaining proper relative
adjustment of the tensions of the upper and lower threads respectively, to insure
that the lock of the two threads will be uniformly placed between the upper and
lower surfaces of the cloth. When the upper tension is excessive the lower thread
loop is sometimes drawn completely out of the cloth on the upper side, and
vice versa.
The needle-hole 27 is approximately circular, and the thread slit 28 forms a
narrow extension thereof, as already explained, being just wide enough for the
free passage of a thread. As the upper thread is drawn tight it passes freely.
through the slit, but if the lower thread tension should be relatively feeble its loop
nevertheless cannot be drawn out of the cloth since it encounters the solid portion
of the foot at the side of the slit. The font thus acts as a stop, supplementing
the action of the lower tension. In practice the upper thread tension may be given a
slight excess over the lower thread tension, insuring that the lock shall not be formed
on the underside of the work, while the means just described insure that the lower
thread loop will not be drawn above the cloth.
The improvement in the presser-foot which has just been described has an.
advantage over an elongated opening in that it aids in the proper laying of the.
stitch and in placing the lock in the proper position. It has the advantage over a
simple round hole of avoiding the deflection of the upper thread out of the vertical
line and the bending thereof around the edge of the hole. The friction on the
edge of the hole in making long stitches at high speed causes frequent breakage of
the thread.
The presser-foot has a transverse cut 29 from one edge to the needle hole, through,
which cut the thread is introduced in threading the machine.
The loop controlling devices, to wit, the recess 26 and slit 28 may be used.
separately, though the best and most uniform results are insured by their co-operation..
So far as we are aware, no means have been heretofore employed to control the loop.
and hold the strands thereof in proper relation to the line of stitching, against the
twisting tendency of the hook.
The needle-shield is, in its general construction, and operation the same as.
heretofore, but an improvement has been made therein in cutting a groove 32
(Figure 12) near the extreme end thereof on the side adjacent to the needle. This.
groove permits the thread passing down from the tension, and take-up, to swing
freely around to the left of the needle puncture.
The improvements in the take-up mechanism and in certain other parts in or
upon the head of the machine are illustrated in Figures 20-39, which will now be
referred to.
It is found highly advantageous' in operating at high speed to lessen materially
the weight of the rotary take-up. To this end it is composed of two skeleton or
openwork frames or discs. An important feature of this part of the invention is.
the construction of the thread-controller, or device which acts to keep the thread
taut after the take up has ceased to pull upon it, and before the point of the needle
reaches the work. Heretofore, devices having this function have been actuated by
a spring. It is difficult to make a spring so sensitive as to act reliably at very high.
speed, and according to the present invention, the thread-controller is operated
positively by a moving part of the machine, making its action certain. Preferably
it is carried by the rotary take-up itself. It may be of many different forms, those-
preferred being illustrated in the drawings.
The rotary take-up is formed of two skeleton frames or plates H, H¹ com-
prising each a central ring h, a peripheral ring, and three radial connecting-
arms. The advantage of this construction over solid plates has already been
pointed out.
The two plates H H' are fastened together by means of the crank-pins ij, which

page_text: separate the plates a proper distance to form a passage for the thread from the
thread-eye 31 to the needle. The pin is the take-up pin proper, and its operation
in drawing up the needle-loop on tightening the stitch, is the same as in take-up
devices of this class described in previous patents. The take-up is attachel to the
crank-head a on the end of main shaft A, Figure 32, which projects through a
hole in the face of the head I of the machine, by means of a screw 32, being
accurately positioned by the aid of a pin 33 on the end of the head a entering a hole
in the inner plate H¹.
It is well understood that the actual length of thread given out to provide for
the stitch and for the loop which passes around the bobbin and bobbin-case in
forming a stitch varies with the thickness of the work, since in a regular operation
the take-up should draw the loop of the upper thread into the fabric until the lock
is at the centre of the work.
It follows that the amount of thread to be given out to each stitch is greater as
the work is thicker. Heretofore adjustable devices in the form of shifting-thread
guides have been employed to vary the length of thread drawn up and given out
at each stitch. According to the present invention a similar result is secured in a
more convenient manner by making the surface on the pin i over which the thread
passes, adjustable towards and away from the axis of the take-up. As shown
particularly in Figures 21, 22, 23 and 24 the pin i carries an eccentric the latter
lying between the two plates, H, H' and being attached so as to turn with the pin i
in any suitable way, as by providing the pin with a square or oblong portion (as
indicated by dotted lines Figure 24) and making the hole in the eccentric of
corresponding shape. A spring washer 3 (Figure 24) is attached to the end of the
pin and presses on the plate H' to hold the pin ia position by friction. The pin has
a slotted head, whereby with an ordinary screw-driver, the pin can be turned in
its bearings in the two take-up plates to adjust the position of the eccentric i.
The position shown in Figure 21 is that for thin goods, that shown in Figure 22
for medium goods, and that shewn in Figure 23 for thick goods. It will of course
be understood that when the acting surface of the eccentric is furthest from the
axis of the take-up (as in Figure 23) the length of thread given down and drawn
up will be the maximum.
For the guidance of the operator an arrow or pointer is placed on the frame
adjacent to the head of the pin i and on the larter are three small marks
indicating the positions for thin, medium, and thick work respectively.
Other modes of making the take up adjustable may be adopted. For example,
as shown in Figures 34 and 35, the pin i is held in place by a nut which lies in a
groove in the back of the plate H whereby the nut is prevented from turning
with the pin. The latter passes through radial slots in the plates H H', so
that, upon turning the pin with a screw driver, or by other convenient means, it
may be loosened and adjusted nearer to or farther from the axis of the take-up.
In the rapid rotation of the take up the slack thread is vibrated with considerable
energy, and it is found desirable to provide means for confining it between the
take-up plates. This is accomplished by means of the thread guard 34 (Figures 20,
25, and 26) which is secured to the head of the machine adjacent to the periphery of
the take-up. This guard in the form shown is a curved metal piece having a
longitudinal slot which confines the thread after passing through the take-up, but
is of sufficient length to give it the required freedom of lateral movement. One
wall of the thread guard has a transverse cut 37 to facilitate threading; and to
prevent the thread from escaping from the slot while the machine is in operation
this wall or strip is deflected throwing the thread-inlet 37 to one side of the take-up
plate H (see Figures 25 and 27). The latter thus guards the thread from escaping
by the cut through which it enters.
When the take-up pin i has passed its highest position (Figure 20) it ceases
drawing on the loop, and the thread begins to slacken. From that point and.
until the point of the needle has reached the work it is needful to keep the thread
taut. For this purpose thread-controllers in the form of a light spring have been

page_text: heretofore employed; but no spring can, be, made sufficiently light and at the same
time sufficiently rapid to act upon the slack at the high rate of speed at which the
machine constructed according to the, present, invention is designed to be driven.
One feature of the present invention, therefore, is a thread-controller which comes
into action, as the take-up begins. to slacken the, thread. and, which keeps the thread.
taut until about the time the needle enters the cloth, and which then releases it.
This thread-controller is formed by the conical pin 38 (Figure 28) carried by the
take-up plate H, and extending across the thread space between the two
plates H H', a flat check-spring 39 set in an aperture of proper shape in the
plate H' pressing lightly on the rounded end of pin 38. From the relative positions
of the take-up, pin. and controller pin 38, the latter comes into contact with the
thread soon after, the former begins to give it up, and as the two pins rotate
together, no slack accumulates so long as the thread is acted upon by the controller
pin. The check, spring 39 prevents the thread slipping over the point of pin 38
until the pull on the thread between the pin 38, and the eye of the needle is
appreciably felt, when the thread, readily lifts the spring and escapes. The point.
at which, this escape is, effected will vary slightly and, it is not necessary to
determine it with, absolute, precision. Generally it will, occur, when the take-up, is,
at or near the position indicated in Figure 21. In the position shown in Figure 20,
the book has taken the loop and begun to draw down the thread which, has escaped
from the, controller. This positively acting controller may, of course, be, made in
various forms, but that shown and described is. considered the best for machines of
the type illustrated, in the drawings and an explanation of it will suffice to
demonstrate its principle, and to enable, persons, skilled in, the construction, of
sewing machines to vary its form as may be expedient for, the particular machine
to which it is applied.
The controller is preferably applied, as, shown, to the rotary take-up,, to act, upon.
the thread between. the take-up pin and, the needle. When so, placed, its.com-
struction, may be modified within wide limits. Several examples are given in the
drawings. In Figure 39 the pin or projection 38 which forms the controller is on
a spring 39.instead of on, the plate H; the said spring being, bent to the form shown
in said figure.
Another construction is illustrated in Figures 34-37. The plate, H is in, this
case provided with a curved rib 38 opposite which in the plate. His. a similarly,
shaped slot 38b into which, the rib 38 projects. The forward end 38° of the latter
engages the slack thread, in the same manner, as does, the pin 38 in the other
figures. The end 38 is rounded so that the bent thread can readily slip over it at
the proper time. The thread then rides along the top of rib 38, as shown in
Figure 37, and finally slips off the rear end thereof.
The head I of; the machine is preferably a single casting; that is to say, the
face and sides are formed in one piece, and it is completely detachable from the
end of arm. B by removal of the screws 41, by which it is attached to the plate b
at the end of arm B.,
The head a of the needle-crank on main shaft A, passes between the needle-bar F
and the presser foot-bar F, and is cut away at opposite sides, so that when the
head is detached, and the shaft A turned to the position shown, in Figure 31, the
head may be removed without disturbing the arrangement of the parts in or
upon it.
.
The working parts within the head are illustrated in Figures 31, 32, and 33. The
needle-bar F is driven as heretofore by a crank 60 on the main-shaft A and a short
pitman 61, and cross-head 62, the latter being attached. by a loop and clamp
screws at one end to the needle-bar and having at the other end a loop 63, which
slides freely on, the presser-bar, the latter thus acting as a guide to the cross-head.
The stud 64 in, the centre of the cross-head rests loosely in the socket provided
for it in the end of the pitman 61, so that it can be freely withdrawn from the said
socket when the head is separated from the body of the machine. A counter-
weight 65 is placed on the crank head of the main shaft to assist in suppressing
B

page_text: the jar occasioned by the rapid-reciprocation of the needle-bar and connected
parts.
The presser foot-bar Ft has near the upper end a projecting stud or pin 66 which
extends over the top of the lifter rod 67, and the usual cam lever 68 is provided to
raise the lifter rod and presser-bar and hold them in an elevated position. The
rod 67 is not in the interior of the bead I but works in bearings bored out of the
metal on one side of the head. It has a return spring 69. The pin 66 passes
transversely through the presser foot-bar and engages at its inner end in a hole-in
a plunger 70, working against the pressure of a coiled spring 71, in a socket in the
upper part of the head which plunger is contained partly in said socket and partly
in a tube 72 which forms a continuation thereof. A screw cap 73 -centrally
perforated for the admission of oil, furnishes a bearing for the upper end of said
spring.
'An oil hole 75 is bored vertically through the top of the head I directly, over
the axis of the shaft, and the needle-bar pitman, and the oil falls from the lower
end of this hole on to the crank pin 60, cross-head 62 and other parts beneath.
Behind the counterweight 65 is a block 77 surrounding an eccentric 88 and
embraced by a yoke 78, through which a vibratory movement is communicated to
the shaft g of the needle shield g.
The hole 42 in the face-plate through which the crank-head a extends
for connection with the take-up is countersunk at the rear, so that oil
cannot pass out through the hole but will be drawn inward by the inclined.
edge of the hole. The opening at the rear of the head I has on each side a flange
or rib 43 constituting an oil guard, leading the oil which may drip from the upper
bearing, or which is thrown to the sides of the casting from the moving parts, to a
recess or depression 44, whence it can flow through the channel 45, to the external
receptacle or cup 47. From this receptacle it can readily be wiped off.
Beneath the shaft of the needle-shield g is an inclined oil channel 48 leading
from the front of the bearing in which this spindle is journalled to the recess 44, 80
that the oil oozing from the bearing at its front end is conducted to the cup 47.
An annular recess 50 is made in the metal of the head around the lifter-rod 67 to
collect oil that may escape by the slot through which the pin 66 projects, and this
oil serves to lubricate the lifter rod. Any overflow is led back into the interior of
the head by hole 52, and ultimately finds its way to cup 47.
The lower bearings of the needle-bar F and presser foot-bar Fare formed by
tubular bushings fitted in vertical holes in the metal of the bead. Each
bushing, at its upper end, which projects above the bottom of the chamber in the
head, is bevelled off to an edge closely surrounding the bar For F, and serves to
strip off excess of oil from the bar and divert it to the bottom of the chamber,
whence it finds its way, as already pointed out, to the oil cup 47 outside the
head.
In consequence of this provision, no more oil runs down the needle-bar or
presser-bar than is required for its lubrication; or in other words, the amount of
oil supplied to the bearing is regulated by the angle given to the end of the
bushing.
The top of the needle-bar F is covered by a cap 53 fitted tightly into the head I,
which prevents the needle-bar from throwing oil out of the end of the bearing and
also acts as a dash-pot. In the operation of the machine the air contained in this
cap reacts upon the needle bar alternately by compression and suction according as
it is compressed and rarefied by the motion positively imparted to the needle-bar
by its driving mechanism; and this action aids the needle-bar upon reaching the
dead point, to reverse its direction, conducing to an easy motion, and diminishing
the jar which always attends the movement of rapidly reciprocating parts.
The end of the presser foot-bar is covered by a similar cap 34, which performs
the same functions as the needle-bar cap and calls for no further description.
Figures 40, 41, 42 illustrate means devised for giving to the hook-shaft D multi-
rotation from the main-shaft A, the reason for giving the hook-shaft two or more

page_text: revolutions to one of the main shaft being chiefly to carry the loop of needle-thread
around the bobbin in the briefest possible time, so as to allow more time for the
action of the take-up. Great practical difficulty has heretofore been experienced
in giving the desired motion to the hook-shaft, particularly when the latter is
driven at nine thousand revolutions per minute, and upwards. In order to diminish
these difficulties a driving mechanism has heretofore been devised, consisting of a.
single intermediate gear or idler between the pinion of the main shaft, and that on
the book-shaft. This mechanism effected an improvement upon that previously
employed. It is, however, attended with certain disadvantages which render it
necessary, in order to obtain results entirely satisfactory, to devise other driving
mechanism.
The large idler, with its leather teeth enclosed between metal plates, is difficult
and expensive to make. It did not yield, at the highest speeds, the desired
smoothness or ease of running, and produced a certain amount of noise and jar,
notwithstanding the use of noise-dea lening material. Further, the use of this
device necessitated a bulge in the hollow vertical standard of the machine to
accommodate it, which bulge was unsightly in appearance and increased the weight
of metal and the expense of making the casting.
By means of the present invention not only is a large intermediate gear wheel
dispensed with, but greater ease. lightness in running, and less noise are secured.
Instead of pinions, the main-shaft and hook-shaft are provided with pulleys a*
and respectively each having a number of pins on its periphery set at equal
distance apart, and these pulleys are connected by a belt or band preferably of
leather, or similar soft material having holes which correspond with the pins. The
leather belt may be reinforced by a backing of thin sheet steel to prevent
stretching.
Although, owing to the flexibility of the band and the fact that the holes are
necessarily somewhat larger in diameter than the pins (the size further increasing
by wear) there is a certain looseness and opportunity for lost motion, it has been
found that, even at the highest attainable speed, this does not interfere with the
perfect action of the rotary-hook upon the needle-loop.
The foregoing statement gives the general character of the driving mechanism
which, when combined with the main-shaft and needle-mechanism operated
therefrom, and with a rotary hook and hook-shaft driven at a speed which is a
multiple of that of the main-shaft, constitutes an important feature of this
invention.
An essential matter of construction, however, has yet to be explained. In
endeavouring to reduce this invention to practice, it has been found that if the ratio
of diameters of the two pulleys a* and d be that of the speeds of their respective
shafts, the mechanism is inoperative, as the pins will not remain in the holes in the
belt, and the hook and needle get further and further out of time the longer the
apparatus is run. After much experimenting it has been found that this is due to
the character and action of the belt, which necessitates a considerable variation
between the ratio of diameters of the pulleys, and the ratio of the desired speeds.
In other words, that, in this mechanism the apparent diameters of the pulleys
differ from their real diameters, and consequently that the ratio of speed differs
materially from the ratio of diameters.
The explanation of this variance is believed to be that the belt, in curving
around the pulleys, instead of stretching on the outside, becomes compressed on the
side next the pulleys. The ordinary rule of mechanics is to put the skin side of
the belt (which is relatively stiff and unyielding) outside. Following this arrange-
meut, and by experiments of various sorts extending over a considerable period of
time, the ratio necessary in order to yield absolutely a three to one revolution was
discovered. The diameter of the large pulley was 2.412 inches. The diameter
found for the small pulley to give its shaft exactly three revolutions to one of the
driving shaft (and not a fraction more or less) was 0.722 of an inch. This diameter
is not great enough to give the desired amount of leverage to drive the shaft; but

page_text: it was found that this objection could be overcome by reversing the usual mode
of applying the belt, and putting the skin side next 'the pulley. By this arrange-
ment there is more external stretching, and less internal compression, so much so
that with a driving pulley '2-420 inches in diameter, the driven pulley, to receive.
three revolutions to one, must be 0-750 of an inch.
These dimensions are not variable, but on the contrary are essential matters of
construction, since a variance of a thousandth part of an inch will prevent the
proper co-operative action of the hook, needle, and take-up in the formation of a
stitch. Such a variance in the diameter of the small wheel makes a difference of
'three-thousandths of an inch in each revolution of the main shaft, and in one
hundred revolutions (say in about two seconds of ordinary running time) the hook-
shaft would be out to the extent of a quarter of an inch.
The reversal of the belt not only permitted an increase in the relative size of
the small pulley, but also permitted an increase in the thickness of the belt, and the.
use of a small number of holes in the belt, which is also desirable. In the
operative construction finally adopted the small pulley had six pins and the large
pulley nine (the pins in the latter entering every other hole in the belt). The
thickness of the belt has much to do with driving the small pulley properly.
Under the conditions herein explained the best results have been obtained with a
thickness of 0-075 of an inch.
In the operation of this driving mechanism the auxiliary shaft is driven by the
friction of the band on the pulley, the function of the pins being simply to keep the
parts in time and prevent slipping.
While it is preferred that the pins should be on the pulleys, and the holes in the
belt it is obvious that the reverse arrangement would be equivalent.
We are aware that driving mechanism of the same general character has been
heretofore used, and we claim in this part of the invention, only the combination of
'such mechanism with the 'main shaft and hook-shaft, for driving the latter at a
speed which is 'a'multiple of that of 'the' former.
'A represents the main shaft of the sewing-machine, and D an auxiliary shaft
carrying at its end the rotary hook 'K. The main shaft A carries a driving
pulley a*, and the shaft D a driven pulley 'd, the latter having, in the mechanism
shown, one-third the circumference of the pulley a*. The periphery of pulley a*
is provided with a series of conical "pins a', set at equal distances apart, while the
pulley d is similarly provided with a set of pins d'. C represents a driving baud,
preferably of leather, though other equivalent soft and pliable material may be
used instead; the band having a series of perforations cat the proper distance
apart to register 'with the pins a' d¹. In operation the shaft D will obviously be
'driven from the shaft A at the rate of three revolutions for the 'former to one of
the latter, 'and' the practical results obtained are such as heretofore pointed out.
In the construction shown in Figure 41, the smaller pulley d has seven pins d
'and the pins a on pulley à* are the same distance apart as those on pulley d.
Consequently pulley a* has twenty-one pins. For the purpose in view it is not
necessary to use so large a number of pins on pulley a*, and on the other hand it
is found that a certain drag or friction is caused by the contact of the surfaces of
the pins with the edges of the holes when the former slip into and out of the latter.
Therefore, when the pulleys are of different sizes, it is preferred to employ a
relatively smaller number of pins on the larger pulley, and so 'space them that a
pin will register with alternate holes, or with every third hole, according to the
discrepancy between the sizes of the two pulleys. This construction is illustrated
in Figure 42, wherein the smaller pulley d has eight equally spaced pins, while
the larger pulley a* has twelve, the intervals between the latter being twice as
great as those between the former. The pins a' therefore, register with alternate
holes in the band C.
The invention embraces novel means for adjusting the movement of the feed-bar
so that stitches of 'different lengths may be made.
The improved adjusting means are shown in Figures 43-46. Longitudinal

page_text: movement is imparted to the feed-bar from an eccentric on the main-shaft, and this
part of the invention consists mainly in the means for adjusting the position of this
eccentric relatively to the axis of its shaft. These special devices are not, however,
limited in their application to the adjustment of the feed-mechanism.
A, represents the main-shaft (or it may be any suitable shaft) of a sewing
machine, journalled in bearings of the hollow arm B carried by the vertical
standard B, and carrying the feed eccentrics E E'. The former is designed to
impart to a feed-bar its horizontal motions through a pitman Q and other suitable
connecting mechanism, while the latter imparts the rising and falling movements
through a pitman Q. The connections of the feed-mechanism will be fully
described hereafter. So far as the adjusting mechanism is concerned it is
immaterial what precise form of connections for driving the fead-bar is adopted.
The eccentric E is the adjustable eccentric, the length of stitch being proportional
to its throw. As shown it is formed in one piece with the disk E2, herein termed
the eccentric support, and has a shaft hole enough larger than the shaft A to
permit the desired range of lateral displacement.
Adjacent to support E is another disk F, herein termed the adjusting cam,
which is supported loosely upon the hub of a wheel G' which is fast on the main
shaft. As shown, the wheel 'G' is in one piece with the driving pulley H', but
that is merely a matter of convenience.
The eccentric E is attached to the fast wheel G, and consequently to the
main-shaft, by means of screw pins passing through the support E and the
cam and tapped into the wheel G. These screw pins e, however, pass through
radial slots e¹ in the support E, so that the latter can move for a limited distance"
radially of the shaft, and through concentric slots f in the cam F, so that the
latter can turn relatively to the shaft through an are limited by the length of the
slots. To hold these adjustable parts from slipping spring friction washers * are
placed under the heads of screw pins e. The support E has on the face adjacent
to the cam a crank-pin carrying an anti-friction roller which engages in an
eccentric or cam groove f' in cam F.
Such being the construction and relative disposition of the parts it is obvious that
when the cam F is turned axially with reference to the shaft the edges of cam-
groove facting on the pin shifts the position of support E and eccentric E
transversely across the shaft A, increasing or diminishing the throw of the
eccentric according to the direction in which the cam is turned. In order to turn
the cam relatively to the shaft sufficient force must be exerted to overcome
the resistance of friction washers e².
For the purpose of making the adjustment the cam is provided with a peripheral
notch k, and adjacent to the periphery of the cam is a stop-pin supported on
the end of a flat spring k in a hole in the casing and having a knob on the outside
of the latter, and a dog or tooth on its inner end. Pink is normally held out of
engagement with the notch * by means of the spring . To change the adjust-
ment of the feed-eccentric, the operator presses in the stop pin k³, and turns
shaft A by means of hand wheel A until the point of the pin snaps into the
notch *. He keeps his finger firmly pressed on pin k', thus holding the cam
stationary, while he turns the shaft forward or backward according as it is desired
to increase or diminish the throw of the eccentric.
In this movement the crank pin h traversee the cam slot f* effecting the desired
adjustment.
In order that the adjustment may be effected accurately it is necessary to provide
a scale or indicator of some sort. To this end the rim of wheel G is provided
with a series of graduated marks each of which is marked with a number
indicating in this case so many stitches to the inch. These marks are so placed
with reference to the stop-pink and notch k*, and with respect to an aperture or
window g in the easing opposite wheel G, that when the cam is engaged by the
stop pin the number then appearing through the aperture indicates the number of
stitches to the inch the machiue is making.

page_text: The operator can thus ascertain readily the length of stitch to which the
machine is adjusted, and to change to a longer or shorter stitch, turns the shaft
(while holding the cam stationary) until the desired number appears through the
aperture g*.
In the construction shown the eam has two notches at opposite sides of its
periphery, and the scale of figures representing different lengths of stitch is
duplicated on opposite sides of wheel G, so that in any case it will only be
necessary to turn the main-shaft through a distance less than half a revolution
before the stop pin engages one of the notches.
Obviously the details of construction herein shown and described may be modified,
within wide limits.
The pull-off or device which draws from the 'spool or other source of thread-
supply, the amount of thread consumed at each stitch, is illustrated in Figures 47, 48
and 49. It is combined with and receives its movement from a variable element
(preferably the adjustable eccentric just described) of the feed mechanism, so that
the amount of thrend drawn from the spool by the pull-off, varies directly as the
length of stitch is varied.
The pull-off stand C is a flat metal plate which constitutes also the cover of
the hollow standard B'. It has a post 'C' carrying a horizontal forked piece e
provided with a thread passage or slot el in each of its branches. The pull-off
Jever D* works in a slot in plate C being pivoted to a lug e depending from said
plate within the hollow arm B. In the short arm of the lever D* is a socket d* in
which is a rod or plunger d³ attached by a screw 9' to an ear or projection * on the
apper end of pitman Q, so that the rod or plunger d' partakes of all the movements
of the eccentric, it having a longitudinal movement in the socket d* and also a lateral
or vibratory movement. During these movements the pull-off lever D* is vibrated
through a path in length proportioned to the throw of the eccentric.
In operation the thread is brought from the spool through one eye e¹ of the
forked guide-piece e, thence it passes through the eye in the end of lever D*,
and back through the other eye c', going from that point to the tension Gʻ, which
is of the ordinary friction variety, and co-operates directly with the pull-off without
the intervention of a clamping tension.
It will be obvious that when the eccentric E is adjusted by the meaus already
described to vary the length of stitch, the throw of the pull-off lever will be
lengthened or shortened proportionately so that it will draw from the spool a
sufficient amount of thread to form the stitch.
Heretofore the different elements of the feed actuating mechanism, which move
relatively to each other in changing the direction of the transmitted motion, have
been connected together by means of journal pins or pivots, so that one part moves
on the other. In connections of this sort, wear is inevitable, and lost motion is of
consequence. This is a serious objection for the reason that in the minute move-
ments of the feed-bar, a small amount of lost motion produces a considerable
variance in the length of stitch, necessitating replacement of the worn parts. This
difficulty is avoided by the means illustrated in Figures 50-55.
The feed surface p is on the four-notion feed-bar P, and the latter receives its,
horizontal, or back and forth movement from the eccentric E, and its rising and
falling movement from the eccentric E', as already explained. The connections
to the feed-bar are from the eccentric É through pitman Q to rock-shaft R, and
from a vertical crank-arm on the forward end of the latter to the feed-har by a
flexible connection hereafter described; and from eccentric E' through pitman Q¹
to rock-shaft K' and from an approximately horizontal crank-arm thereon to
the feed-bar.
Rock shafts R R are long tubes or sleeves, surrounding each a rod S S' fixed
in sockets formed by hollow bushings Figure 55 in the frame beneath the bed
plate B. The bearings for the rock shafts are near these ends of the rods, the
portions of the said rods between the bearings being reduced in diameter, thereby
forming annular chambers through which oil' spreads in both directions to the

page_text: bearings from the oil holes s' situated about midway of the rock-shafts. In this
way the oil is supplied all around the bearing.
It is necessary in arranging the parts of the machine to adjust the feed surface p
relatively to the openings therefor in the throat plate, with great nicety. For this
purpose the bushing s, which coustitute the end bearings of the rock-shafts, are
screw-threaded exteriorly and tapped into threaded sockets. By turning the
bushings in one direction or the other the desired adjustment can be effected with
accuracy.
As the amount of adjustment will in any case be very slight it will suffice that.
one only of the rock shafts he provided with the adjustable bushings.
The connections between the pitman QQ' and rock shafts R R and between the
latter and the feed-bar will now be described.
Figures 53 and 54 show in detail the construction of the flexible connection
between the pitman Q' and its rock-shaft, the connection of the other pitman and
rock-shaft being of the same construction.
At the lower end of the pitman, and projecting beyond the same is a broad, but.
thin spring t attached to the pitman by a clamp plate and a screw passing
through the clamp and through a perforation in the spring into the side of the
pitman.
The crank-arm of the shaft R' has a shoulder against which the end of the
spring rests, and a flat face against which the spring is clamped by a clamp-plate v
and screw . The ends of the spring are thus held between rigid surfaces on the
two connected parts respectively leaving between them a small portion of the spring,
which gives the joint its flexibility. The spring is in the direct line of the thrust
and pull of the pitman and therefore though of very thin metal and bending readily
in a transverse direction, it transmits the reciprocating movement of the pitman,.
and stands the strain without incurring wear. In a word it is.rigid in the direction
of the reciprocating movement of the pitman, and therefore avoids lost motion, but
is highly flexible in the transverse direction and therefore readily accommolates
itself to the slight relative changes of position between the connected parts, which
occur during their operation. Owing to the faci that the spring lies in the plane
of the reciprocating movement which it transmits, and to the further fact that it is
clamped at both ends between clamping devices which approach closely to each
other, leaving only a short length of the spring exposed, the latter is effectually
protected from buckling and from injury during the running of the machine and the
joint possesses great durability. As an additional sate-guard a tongue t³ is formed
of one of the connected parts, entering a groove in the other part, and as the spring
lies along oue side of this groove it is reinforced for practically its entire length,
and protected from undue deflection in handling the parts. when connecting them
together. There is sufficient clearance between the tongue and groove to permit
the bending of the spring as the connected parts change their relative positions.
The joints at the other end of the rock-shafts, between them and the feed bar
are constructed on the same principle, and require no further explanation.
The arm on the feed-advancing shaft R has a shoulder e at its upper end, which
shoulder with the overhanging clan.p-plate forms a groove, the spring being
clamped between this plate and the top of arm r. The adjacent end of feed-bar P
has a tongue pl entering this groove, and a clamp plate p. There are two joints
between arm on the feed lifting shaft R' and the forward end of feed bar P..
These are formed by a single spring y clamped between two plates y' y and
projecting beyond them at its ends, which enter grooves formed in the arm r¹ and
the bar P respectively and extend into slits in the bottoms of these grooves. The
lower end of the spring is fastened to the arm by a pin y, but the feed bar rests
on the upper end of the spring by its own weight. To supplement gravity and
insure that the parts do not separate when the crank arm moves downward, a spiral
tension spring is attached at its opposite ends to the bar and arm respectively.
The tension and parts adjacent thereto are shown in Figures 56-66.
tension is so constructed that, when the presser foot-bar F' is lifted by the operator,.
This

page_text: the tension on the thread. will be released, and will be applied when the bar is
lowered. This result is accomplished, without conuecting the presser-bar itself
directly with the tension, which would not be practicable because, since the
presser-foot bar is constantly moved up and down by the feed, it would cause an
intermittent action of the tension. The presser-foot, bar is therefore provided, with
an auxiliary lifter-rod 67, as already described, which rod acts, when lifted, against
the stud or pin 66, which connects the presser-foot bar F with the plunger 70.
It has been found desirable to provide for a very slight axial adjustment of, the
presser-foot bar, so; that in arranging the parts of the machine it may be adjusted to
bring the needle hole through the presser-foot into exact alignment with the axis
of the needle. This adjustment is provided for by constructing the screw pin or
stud 66 so that it may have a very slight lateral play in the threaded opening, in the
presser-foot bar. through which it passes. Figure 67 illustrates: the construction
described, and from inspection thereof it will be seen that after the pin or stud 66
is in place, its inner end being inserted in a hole in plunger 70, the presser-foot bar
can be turned axially through a very small arc. Between the head of the pin or
stud 66 and the presser-foot bar is a small clamping sleeve 65 hollowed out at its
inner end to fit the curvature of the bar. The adjustment above described is made
before tightening the screw pin or stud 66, and when made, the latter is tightened,
the presser-foot bar being thereby clamped in its adjusted position between the
curved end of sleeve 65 and the threaded portion of the screw-pin.
The tension is situated on the head of the machine. In the form shown it is
composed of the following elements. A screw-pin 80, split at its outer end projects
from the base of the tension. Upon this turns a disc 81 placed in a circular recess
in the metal of the head, and having on its periphery à notch into which takes
a screw 82 carried by the lifter-rod 67. The disc 81 has on its face three inclined
or cam projections 83. Adjacent to the disc 81 is a tension washer 84 having
reversely inclined cam projections 85 and a pin 79 passing through a slot in the
disc 81 and entering a hole in the head of the machine to prevent axial movement
of the washer. Against the other face of washer 84 (which is roughened) lies a
felt washer 86 which bears against the tension wheel 87. The latter (Figure 59) is
formed of a thin plate of steel, into the edge of which a series of radial cuts are
made, forming tongues 88, which are bent alternately in opposite directions forming
an annular thread space or recess. The other tension washer 89 (between which
and the tension wheel is a second flat washer 90) has a hub 91 in which is enclosed
a spiral tension spring 92 bearing at one end against a shoulder inside the hub and at
the other end against a washer 93 interposed between the spring and the thumb-
nut 94, by which the compression of the spring is regulated. The washer 93 has a
cross-bar 95. (Figure 62) which lies in the cleft of the pin 80, so that the washer
cannot turn. The tension-washer 89 has a similar cross-bar 96 which serves the
same function, and also limits the movement of the washer in the direction of its
complementary washer 84.
In the normal position of the parts (Figures 57 and 58) the presser bar being
lowered, the cam: projections 83 and 85 are in such position that the washer 84 is
thrust the maximum distance away from the disc 81. In this position it forms the
unyielding stop. by which the pressure of the tension spring is taken. When,
however, the lifter rod 67 is raised, the crank-disc 81 is partly rotated through the
screw. 82, the.cam projections 83, 85 sliding on each other, permitting the washer 84
to yield to the action of the tension spring, and move on the pin 80 away from the
washer. 89. The washer 89 follows this motion until the cross-bar 96 reaches.
the end of the.cleft in the screw pin 80, which now takes the entire pressure of the
spring relieving the tension wheel therefrom.
The presser-foot bar is provided as shown with a series of ratchet-shaped
notches, extending entirely around the bar. These notches constitute a series of
steps.acting to arrest drippings of oil from the bearing, which can be conveniently
wiped off by the operator.
The bar is also provided with a curved guard 7 partly surrounding it,

page_text: protecting the work, which sometimes has a tendency to curl up, from contact
with the bar.
Figures 68-72 illustrated the device for threading the needle, which device is
attached to the thread-shield or needle finger.
The thread shield q as shown and as already explained is carried by a short
shaft gl having a bearing in the head I of a sewing machine and oscillated from an
eccentric on the main-shaft A through an arm 78 attached to the said shaft and
having at its upper end a yoke embracing the said eccentric; but the thread shield
may be supported and operated in any suitable way.
The needle-bar F carrying a needle f8 may be vibrated by any mechanism such
as usually employed. In the customary operation of these parts the thread shield
moves towards the needle, placing its end under the point thereof as the latter rises,
and withdrawing it when the needle descends, thus preventing the thread from
impaling itself on the point of the needle.
The threader is formed by a small lug or projection 9 on the side of the thread-
shield, provided with a notch q³, the angle formed by the meeting of the sides of
this notch constituting the thread guide.
The position of this guide. relatively to the needle is such that, when the needle
is in its highest position (indicated in the drawings) the motion of the thread-shield
will have brought the said guide into line with the axis of the needle eye. In this
position the thread being laid in the notch the latter guides its end through the
needle-eye.
The thread-guide may be formed in various ways. As shown in Figures 71
and 72 it consists of a conical guide set into or attached to the thread-shield g in
proper relation to the eye of the needle. A cut or thread-exit q is provided, so
that the thread can slip out of the conical guide after the needle is threaded.
Heretofore a threader has been devised, consisting of an arm hinged to the
presser-foot bar and adapted to be thrown into position to bring the thread
notch or guide into line with the needle eye. The threader is only required for
occasional use and at other times its presence on the machine is of no benefit.
Moreover, the device heretofore used had to be brought into position by hand, and.
the height of the needle properly adjusted thereto.
The advantages of the present improvements are obvious. It requires no
separate part to be made and applied, and no movement by hand.
It is always
in position at the time its service is required.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of this inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. A cup-shaped rotary-hook, having an interior shoulder, and its point formed
by an oblique cut, the side of this cut being deflected where it intersects the said
shoulder so as to be approximately parallel with the outer side of the hook point,
in combination with a non-rotating bobbin-case enclosed in the said hook and having
a segment of a rin over which the point of the hook passes, substantially as
bereinbefore described.
2. The combination with the rotary hook journalled beneath the bed-plate of
the machine, and having an annular flange for throwing off oil, of an oil recess in
the bed-plate adjacent to the flange, and inclined drip-surfaces leading from the
said recess, substantially as herein before described.
3. The combination with the hook-shaft journalled in a bracket beneath the
bed-plate, a rotary-book on one end of the shaft having an annular flange for
throwing off the oil, an oil recess in the work-plate having a curved. rim or guard
and inclined drip surfaces leading from the said rim or guard to the bracket in
which the shaft has its bearing, substantially as hereinbefore described.
4. The combination with the cup-shaped rotary-hook, of an enclosed bobbin case
having projecting segments with intervening spaces, and a tension spring on the
C

page_text: periphery of the case in one of the said spaces, substantially as hereinbefore
described.
5. The combination of the cup-shaped rotary hook, and the bobbin-case enclosed
thereby and constructed as herein before described, the said bobbin-case having a
thread-guide composed of a shield, and a pin extending through a perforation in
the said shield and having its end bevelled to guide the thread over the pin to the
space behind it substantially as hereinbefore described.
6. The combination with the throat-plate, the hanger, the hollow rotary hook,
and means for rotating the same continuously in one direction, of a bobbin case
suspended from the said hanger and enclosed in the said hook, the said case being
provided with a thread-pin or guide for the bobbin thread, arranged to one side of
the opening in the throat-plate, so that the thread pulls from the said pin in a
direction approximately tangential to the bobbin case and tends to turn it in a
direction opposite to that of the rotation of said hook, substantially as herein before
described.
7. The combination with the needle, the rotary-hook, and the hanger, of the
bobbin case suspended by the hanger in the said hook, and a loop detainer
projecting into a space between the bobbin case and the hook, to keep taut the
loop of the upper thread after it has passed under the bobbin case, substantially as
hereinbefore described.
8. The combination with the cup-shaped rotary-hook, of a hanger, and a
bobbin case enclosed in the said hook, and having a projecting flange resting upon
the said hanger, the contact surfaces of the hauger and flange being smooth
and horizontal in section, so that the bobbin case rests loosely on the hanger,
substantially as herein before described.
9. The combination of the bobbin-case having on its face a projecting flange, a
bobbin-hanger upon which the said flange rests, a hanger-support and a bracket in
which the said support is pivoted so as to perinit of the insertion and removal of
the bobbin, the said bracket being provided with curved ribs upon which the lower
edge of the bobbin rests when the hanger-support is tilted downwards, substantially
as hereinbefore described.
10. The combination with the stitch-forming mechanism of a lock stitch sewing-
machine, including a bobbin-case and a looper or hook which twists the loop in
carrying. it around the bobbin-ease, of the loop-controlling devices for holding the
two ends of the needle-loop as it is drawn up on opposite sides respectively of the
axis of the needle, substantially as hereinbefore described.
11. The combination with the needle and other stitch-forming mechanism, of a
presser-foot having an approximately circular needle-hole provided with a narrow
slit of less width than the needle-hole extending rearwardly therefrom and wide
enough for the passage of a single thread, so that the loop of the under thread, if
drawn through the cloth, encounters the solid surface of the foot, substantially as
herein before described.
12. In a lock-stitch sewing-machine, the combination with the needle and other
stitch-forming mechanism, of a presser-foot having a needle-hole, and a uarrow
extension thereof on one side of the axis of the needle, substantially as hereinbefore
described..
1
13. A rotary take-up, constructed and operating as set forth, and consisting of
the discs separated by a thread space, in which is a crank take-up pin, journaled in
the two discs, and adjustable to vary the action of the take-up on the thread,
substantially as herein before described.
14. The combination with the rotary take-up, composed of two discs, con-
nected by one or more crank pius, of the curved thread guard having an elongated
slot. through which the thread passes, the said slot being provided with a thread
entrance constructed as specified to prevent the escape of the thread during the
operation of the machine, substantially as hereinbefore described.
15. The combination with the needle and looping devices, of the rotary take-up

page_text: having a take-up pin acting on the thread at proper intervals to draw up and
tighten the stitch, a thread controller coming into action when the take-up ceases
to pull on the thread and keeping the latter taut until the needle draws upon it,
and means for operating the said controller positively, substantially as hereinbefore
described.
16. The combination with the needle and looping devices, the rotary take-up
comprising take-up plates and a crank pin the periphery of which acts upon the.
thread to draw up the loop and a thread-controller carried by and rotating with
the said take-up plates, and comprising an abutment projecting into the path of
the thread and engaging the latter when the take-up pin ceases to act upon it, the
controller being constructed and arranged as specified so that the thread may slip
past it when drawn upon by the needle, substantially as herein before described..
17. The combination with the needle, looper, and rotary take-up, of a thread
controller carried by the said take-up and having a yielding or spring-acting
thread-detainer, for releasing the thread when the needle draws upon it, substantially
as herein before described.
18. In a sewing-machine the combination with the take-up of a thread-controller,
comprising a pin for engaging and acting upon the thread, and a check-spring
bearing lightly on the said pin for detaining the thread, and means for giving the
thead-controller a positive motion, substantially as hereinbefore described.
19. The combination with the arm of a sewing-machine, of a head in the form
of a hollow casting detachably secured to the said arm and having an opening in
the face for attachment of the take-up, a main-shaft extending into the interior of
the head, a crank and crank-head connected with the said shaft, a rotary take-up
outside of the face of the hollow head and detachably connected with the said
crank-head, and'a presser-foot bar, needle-bar and actuating mechanism arranged
in the said head, the said actuating mechanism being detachably connected with
the main-shaft, whereby the head with the needle-bar and foot-bar may be detached
from the arm of the machine, substantially as hereinbefore described.
20. The mechanism for driving the hook-shaft from the maiu-shaft at a speed
which is a multiple of the speed of the main-shaft, the said mechanism.comprising
a pulley on the main-shaft, a smaller pulley on the hook-shaft, both pulleys being
provided with equally spaced peripheral pins, the ratio of the diameters of the said
pulleys being greater than the ratio of speeds, and a belt having perforations in
which the said pins enter, substantially as hereinbefore described.
21. In a feed-mechanism for sewing-machines, the combination with a rotating
shaft, of an eccentric connected with the said shaft so as to rotate therewith, but
adjustable radially thereof, an adjusting cam mounted loosely on the said shaft,
frictional clamping devices normally holding the said cam from turning inde-
pendently of the said shaft, and a connection between the cam and the eccentric
whereby the rotation of the cam relatively to the eccentric shifts the latter's position
radially of the shaft, substantially as hereinbefore described.
22. In a sewing-machine, the combination with a rotating shaft, of an eccentric
connected therewith for rotation but adjustable radially thereon, an adjusting cam
rotatable on the said shaft, a connection between the cam and eccentric whereby
the rotation of the cam relatively to the eccentric shifts the latter radially of the
shaft, and a graduated scale for indicating the extent of movement of the cam
relatively to the eccentric, substantially as herein before described.
23. In a sewing machine the combination with a rotating shaft, of an eccentric
adjustable radially thereof, an adjusting cam rotatable on the said shaft, frictional
clamping devices for holding the said eccentric and cam in their adjusted positions,
and a stop pin or catch for engaging and holding the said cam against the friction
of the said clamping devices so that the shaft and eccentric can be turned, and the
position of the latter shifted redially while the cam is held stationary, substantially
as hereinbefore described.
24. In a sewing-machine, the combination with a rotating shaft, of a feed-
eccentric adjustable radially thereon, an adjusting cam conuected with the said

page_text: eccentric and adjustable axially on the said shaft but normally rotating therewith,
a' disc fast on the said shaft carrying a graduated scale for indicating the relative
positions of the shaft and eccentric, and a catch or stop pin for holding the cam
stationary while turning the shaft to change the adjustment of the eccentric,
substantially as described.
25. In a sewing-machine, the combination with the adjustable feed-eccentric, of
a thread pull-off and connections for communicating thereto, from the said eccentric,
a vibratory movement approximately proportional to the throw of the latter,
substantially as hereiubefore described.
26. The combination with the adjustable feed-eccentric and the pitman operated
thereby, of a pull-off lever pivoted in a suitable support, and having a socket in its
short arm, and a plunger connected with the said pitman and working in the said
socket, substantially as described.
27. In a feed-mechanism for sewing-machines, the combination with the feed-
eccentric and its shaft, and with the feed-bar, of connecting mechanism for trans-
mitting motion from the former to the latter, including a rock-shaft in the form
of a tube or sleeve having bearings upon a rod extending through the same,
substantially as herein before described.
28. In a feed-mechanism for sewing-machines, the combination with the feed-bar
of a rock-shaft for imparting motion thereto, the said shaft being in the form of a
tube, a rod extending through said shaft and having bearings therefor, and
bushings in the frame supporting the ends of the said rod and constituting end
bearings for the rock-shaft, the said bushings being adjustable in their supports in
the line of the shaft, substantially as hereinbefore described.
29. The combination with the feed-bar, of a rock-shaft for reciprocating the
said feed-bar, and a joint or connection between the shaft and bar formed by a
flat spring rigidly attached at its respective ends to the two connected parts, the
said spring being in the line of the transmitted motion so as to be practically rigid
in such line and flexible transversely substantially as herein before described.
30. The combination with the feed-bar of the feed-advancing rock-shaft, and
the feed-lifting rock-shaft, each of the said shafts being jointed to the said bar by
means of a flat spring secured at its ends to the two connected parts respectively,
the spring being in each case in the line of the transmitted motion and practically
rigid in such direction while flexible transversely thereto, substantially as herein-
before described.
31. The combination with the feed-bar, of driving-mechanism comprising two
elements connected by a joint formed of a flat spring held at its ends between
clamping surfaces on the respective elements, the two pairs of clamping surfaces
approaching to within a short distance of each other, substantially as herein before
described.
32. In mechanism for transmitting vibratory motion, the combination with a
reciprocating element, such as a pitman, and an oscillatory element, of a flat spring
forming the connection between the two, said spring being held at its ends between
clamping surfaces on the respective elements, one of the said elements having a
tongue and the other a groove into which the tongue enters, the intermediate
portion of the spring between the opposite clamping surfaces being enclosed by
the walls of the said groove, substantially as herein before described.
33. The combination of a rock-sbaft in the form of a tube a rod extending
through the said tube and having a bearing therefor at each end, an annular space
being formed between the rod and the tube intermediate of the bearings, and an
oil passage to the said space being provided, substantially as herein before
described.
34. In a sewing-machine, the combination with the chambered bead, of a
presser-foot bar having bearings iu the said. head, a lifter-rod outside the chamber
of the head and disconnected from the said presser-foot bar but adapted to engage
and lift the same wheu raised, and a lifter for actuating and raising the said rod,
substantially as herein before described.

page_text: 35. The combination of the head of the machine, the presser-foot bar having.
bearings therein, the lifter rod, the screw pin connecting the presser-foot bar aud.
lifter-rod, and the described means for adjusting the presser-bar axially and.
clamping it in its adjusted position, substantially as herein before described.
36. The combination with the presser-foot bar and its lifting-mechanism, of a.
tension pin having a longitudinal slot, an inner tension washer embracing the said
pin, means actuated by the said lifter mechanism when the presser-foot bar is
raised for permitting movement of the said washer lengthwise of the said pin, an-
outer tension washer also embracing the said pin and having a cross-bar lying in.
the slot therein to arrest longitudinal motion of the said washer, and a tension
spring pressing the outer washer towards the inner washer, substantially as.
bereinbefore described.
37. The combination of the tension pin having a longitudinal slot extending
from one end, an inner tension washer embracing the said pin, means permitting
the said washer to move lengthwise of the said pin, a tension wheel, an outer
tension washer having a cross-pin lying in the slot of the tension-pin to limit the
longitudinal notion of the said washer, and a tension spring pressing the outer
washer towards the inner washer, substantially as hereinbefore described.
38. The combination with the head of the machine, of a presser-foot bar having
a bearing therein, and provided beneath the bearing with a series of notches
extending around the bar, substantially as herein before described.
39. The combination with the needle, of a vibrating finger moving in proximity
thereto, and provided with a needle-threader, which is in line with the axis of the
needle-hole, when the needle is at or near its highest point, substantially as..
hereinbefore described.
40. The combination with the needle and the rotary-hook, of the enclosed
bobbin-case having an annular rim cut away at the top to form a space for the
entrance of the thread, the said rim being undercut on one side of the said space
forming an overhanging horn, substantially as herein before described.
41. The combination with the needle and co-operating mechanism for forming a
lock-stitch, of a needle-shield for keeping the point of the needle clear of its
thread, the said shield being provided near its end with a groove on the side.
adjacent to the needle, substantially as hereinbefore described.
42. In combination with the needle and hook, the bobbin-case enclosed in the
hook and having an annular rim cut away at its upper part, the said rim having on
one side of the space formed by the said cut an upwardly curved thread-passage,.
terminating on the top of the rim, substantially as hereinbefore described.
43. The combination with the chambered head of the machine, of a reciprocating
bar (such as the needle-bar) having a bearing in the said head, and an annular
projection or bushing embracing the said bar, the top of the said projection or
bushing being bevelled off to an edge, substantially as herein before described.
44. The combination with the chambered head, and the mechanism contained
therein, of an oil-cup or receptacle outside the head, and passages or channels for
draining the oil and conducting it to the said cup or receptacle, substantially as..
described.
45. The combination with the chambered head, of a transverse shaft carrying
the needle-finger, and an inclined oil-passage extending backwardly beneath the
said horizontal shaft, substantially as herein before described.
Dated this 24th day of November 1896.
JOHNSONS & WILLCOX,
47 Lincoln's Inn Fields, Loudon, W.C., Agents..