IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES FOR STITCHING BUTTON HOLES AND FOR OTHER PURPOSES, AND IN THE STITCH PRODUCED THEREBY
Year: 1874

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Alfred Vincent Newton, of the Office for Patents,
66, Chancery Lane, in the County of Middlesex, Mechanical
Draughtsman, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING
MACHINES FOR STITCHING BUTTON HOLES AND FOR OTHER PURPOSES, AND IN THE
STITCH PRODUCED THEREBY."—A communication from abroad by John
McCloskey, of the Oity and State of New York, and Deborah
Catharine Folk, of Brooklyn, in the State of New York, United
States of America.
Sealed the 28th May 1875, and dated the 1st December 1874.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Alfred Vincent
Newton at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his
Petition, on the 1st December 1874.
I, ALFRED VINCENT NEWTON, of the Office for Patents, 66, Chancery.
Lane, in the County of Middlesex, Mechanical Draughtsman, do
hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
SEWING MACHINES FOR STITCHING BUTTON HOLES AND FOR OTHER PURPOSES, AND IN
THE STITCH PRODUCED THEREBY,” to be as follows :—
This Invention relates to a process of producing a lock stitch. of novel
construction from a single thread by interlacing a loop of a needle

page_text: •
thread after its passage through the cloth with a loop of the same
thread formed without passing it through the cloth, and then passing
the outside or supply portion of said thread through the first-named
loop. This it is proposed to do by first passing an eye-pointed needle
with its thread through the material or materials to be stitched, and
then retiring the needle so that it leaves a loop. The subsequent
operations are then as follows:-The loop formed by the needle is
caught by a revolving hook, which, together with a shuttle that is
stationary in relation with the hook, reciprocates in direction of and
simultaneously with the needle, and said loop then passed round the shuttle
by or during the rotation of the hook and its travel in common with the
shuttle and needle. At such period, and shortly before the needle pene-
trates the cloth again and the feed of the cloth or materials takes place,
the thread on the needle is caught by a reciprocating take-up or secondary
looper, and the slack formed by the portion of the thread cast from
the shuttle is drawn outward, while the needle penetrates the cloth again
and the next loop formed by the needle is interlaced with the doubled
thread or loop of the take-up, and is carried round the shuttle, during
which the doubled thread is cast from the take-up and the stitch is
drawn tight by the next outward action of the take-up. This operation
being repeated, a stitch is produced which, when applied to button holes
or to whipping over the edge or edges of cloth, has the throad whipped in
double lines over said edge or edges and each of such doubled whippings
is united by a single line of the same thread. When said operation
however is applied to surface, as distinguised from edge stitching, in
joining two pieces of cloth together, then a lock chain stitch, presenting
only a single line of thread on the outer surface with knots, at the lock
is produced.
The Invention furthermore consists in certain means for carrying out
said process, including a combined shuttle and needle; also a combined
shuttle with attached needle and a bobbin; likewise bobbin case con-
structed to control the tension, and a combination of a reciprocating
take-up with a revolving hook, which also has a reciprocating motion in
common with the needle; likewise a circular ribbed presser connected
with the shuttle for holding down on the needle thread, and for releasing
said thread when it is required to cast it from the shuttle.
The Invention also consists in special button hole feeding devices, in
which a cloth bed or table made to move in a straight line, also having

page_text: a rotary motion or motions, is used in combination with an arrangement
of friction and pawl and ratchet driving gear to produce such actions of
the table, and whereby either a stitched button hole similarly rounded
at both ends, or a stitched button hole having an enlarged eye at its one
5 end, may be automatically produced.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Alfred Vincent Newton in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 1st June 1875.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, ALFRED
VINCENT NEWTON, of the Office for Patents, 66, Chancery Lane, in the
County of Middlesex, Mechanical Draughtsman, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the First day of December, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-four, in the thirty-
eighth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give
and grant unto me, the said Alfred Vincent Newton, Her special
licence that I, the said Alfred Vincent Newton, my executors,
administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Alfred
Vincent Newton, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at
any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all
times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully
might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of
Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an
Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES FOR STITCHING BUTTON
HOLES AND FOR OTHER PURPOSES, AND IN THE STITCH PRODUCED THEREBY,"
being a communication to me from abroad by John M'Closkey, of
the City and State of New York, and Deborah Catharine Folk, of
Brooklyn, in the State of New York, United States of America, upon
the condition (amongst others) that I, the said Alfred Vincent Newton,
my executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my,
or their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe
and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner
the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the
"

page_text: Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and imme-
diately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Alfred Vincent Newton, do
hereby declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement, reference being had to the Drawing
hereunto annexed, and to the letters and figuros marked thereon (that
is to say) :-
.
This Invention relates to the production of a single thread button hole
or binding lock stitch by interlacing a loop of a needle thread after its
passage through the cloth with a loop of the same thread formed without
passing it through the cloth, and then passing the outside or supply
portion of said thread through the first-named loop. This it is proposed
to do by first passing an eye-pointed needle with its thread through the
material or materials to be stitched, and as the needle retires leaving a
loop, after which the subsequent operations are as follows:-The loop
formed by the needle is caught by a revolving hook, which together with
a shuttle that is stationary in relation with the hook reciprocates in
direction of and simultaneously with the needle, and said loop is then
passed round the shuttle by or during the rotation of the hook and its
travel in common with the shuttle and needle. At such period, and
shortly before the needle penetrates the cloth again, and the feed of the
cloth or material takes place, the thread on the needle is caught by a
reciprocating take-up or secondary looper, and the slack formed by the
portion of the thread cast from the shuttle is drawn outward, while the
needle penetrates the cloth again, and the next loop formed by the
needle is interlaced with the doubled thread or loop of the take-up, and
is carried round the shuttle, during which the doubled thread is cast
from the take-up, and the stitch is drawn tight by the next outward
action of the take-up. This operation being repeated a stitch is pro-
duced which, when applied to button holes or to whipping over the edge
or edges of cloth, has the thread whipped in double lines over said edge
or edges, and each of such doubled whippings is united by a single line
of the same thread.
In carrying out this process of sewing a combined shuttle and needle,
with bobbin, bobbin case, and means for controlling or gripping and
setting free the thread, is used, and a combination of a reciprocating

page_text: take-up with a revolving hook, which also has a reciprocating motion in
common with the needle.
The Invention also relates to special button hole feeding devices, in
which a cloth bed or table made to move in a straight line, also having
- a revolving motion or motions, is used, and various novel details or
combinations of parts are employed to produce such actions of the table,
and whereby either a stitched button hole, similarly rounded at both
ends, or a stitched button hole having an enlarged eye at its one end,
may be automatically produced.
In the accompanying Drawings, Fig. 1 represents a plan of a machine
embodying the improvements in part; Fig. 2 is a longitudinal vertical
section of the same.
Fig. 3 is a vertical section of the combined shuttle and needle and
immediate devices, together with means for holding down on and
releasing the needle thread as required.
Fig. 4 is a transverse section of the bobbin and its case, which lies
within the shuttle; and Fig. 5 is a horizontal section of the same.
Fig. 6 is a plan of the combined needle and shuttle; and Fig. 7, a
side or edge view of the same.
Fig. 8 is a transverse vertical section of the machine on the line x, x,
Fig. 1.
Figures 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, and 15 are views in illustration of the
production of the stitch at different stages of the operation.
Fig. 16 represents an edge view of the stitch as it appears in whipping
over the edge or edges of the cloth; and Figs. 17 and 18 are views from
reverse sides of said stitch under similar circumstances, and showing the
relation of the same with the edge or edges of the cloth.
Fig. 19 is a plan of a special cloth feeding table or bed and accom-
panying devices applicable to stitching button holes.
Fig. 20 is a further plan of said table operating devices in a different
position and with the table removed.
Fig. 21 is a side view of such table and its operating devices.
:

page_text: 23 and 24 are plan views of the table with its operating devices in part
in different working positions.
Figures 25 and 26 are views of the form of button hole to which the
improved feed is applicable.
A, Figures 1 and 2, is the frame of the machine, and B its main or
driving shaft; C is the cloth table, which may be made of any suitable
construction, according to the work to be performed, but which is here
shown as having mounted on it an arched rise to provide for the
adjustment and arrangement of the materials to be stitched in relation
with the needle; D is an elastic presser foot.
Any suitable feeding devices may be employed, or the cloth may be
fed by hand, and a special feeding mechanism for sewing button holes
will hercin-after be described, but in the cxample represented in
Figures 1, 2, and 8 of the Drawings the feeding dog or slide is supposed
to be operated by inclines on a rod c to give it a forward and upward
movement, while springs operate it downwardly and backwards. This
rod c is attached to the forward end of a horizontal slide E, which serves
to give the necessary reciprocating movement to the needle with its
combined or attached shuttle and to the revolving hook all at the same
time.
The slide E derives its motion from an excentric F on the main
shaft. G is the revolving hook, which catches the needle loop and
passes it round the shuttle; H is the shuttle, which in the example
represented in the Drawing is lenticular, and which is held between a
shuttle carrier I, fast to or part of the slide E, and an upper disc J, to
which the hook G is attached. This disc J has a rib & on its under face
arranged to enter a creasc e on the upper surface of the shuttle in front,
thereby forming a thread trap, which not only produces a certain tension
on the thread but holds it from being drawn or cast out of time from
the shuttle. To effect this the revolving hook disc J is borne down by a
spring arranged around its spindle g, and said trap is opened at the
proper time to allow of the extended loop being cast from off the shuttle
by the travel of a stud h on the spindle g over a fixed cam i. The disc J
with its attached hook G derives its revolving motion while reciprocating
in common with the shuttle and needle from a crank K on the shaft B,
a connecting rod L pivotted at s to a sliding fulorum and a curvilinearly
slotted arm M on the spindle g.

page_text: The shuttle H has attached to it the eye-pointed sewing needle N,
which together with the shuttle and revolving hook is reciprocated by
the action of the slide E, and the shuttle and needle are prevented from
rotating in common with the hook G, and the needle always made to
point in the same direction by its bearing or sliding against a fixed
guide k.
O is the circular bobbin containing the sewing thread, and P a
circular dished bobbin case, within which the bobbin is centred by a
central eye in it fitting over a stud m on the upper surface of the
bottom of the bobbin casc at its centre, and on or round which the
bobbin rotates when thread is being drawn from it. The thread n (see
Fig. 5) is passed from the bobbin to the needle by entering it succesively
through a series of holes in the rim of the bobbin case, whereby a proper
tension on the thread is produced, and the centreing stud m on the
bobbin case prevents the bobbin being drawn by the pull of the thread
against the side or edge of the bobbin casc and insures a free supply of
thread till used up from the bobbin.
Attached to the shuttle in front on the one side of the needle, at a
suitable distance from the latter, is a projecting oblique or spiral guide Q,
which serves to direct the loop as taken from the needle by the revolving
hook Ground the shuttle H.
R is the reciprocating take-up or secondary looper of the needle
thread, as herein-before referred to. This take-up as here represented
is in the shape of a vibrating hooked lever working on a centre at r, and
moving over the cloth table to and from a point on the opposite side of
the needle to that on which the guide Q is arranged, as indicated by
dotted lines in Fig. 1. This motion may be communicated in proper
timely relation with the needle and revolving hook by an arm S con-
nected with a slide T, which is free to reciprocate within the slide E, and
which is moved backwards and forwards by its. pivotted connection at s
to the vibrating and reciprocating rod L and a rod U, connecting the
arm S with a grooved cam V on the take-up R.
Any other suitable means however may be employed to vibrate the
hooked take-up R to revolve the hook G, and to give said hook, the
shuttle, and needle their reciprocating motions in common so long as
said take-up hook, shuttle, and needle operate in relation with each
other, as herein-before referred to, and the action of which is more

page_text: clearly demonstrated in Figures 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, and 15 of the
Drawings. Thus supposing the needle N to have penetrated the cloth
and to have commenced its back movement, forming or leaving a loop
in the needle thread u, as in Fig. 9, the revolving hook G then
approaches the loop, and as the needle, shuttle, and hook move back-
ward in, common, and as the hook G continues to revolve the book
enters said loop and draws or extends it, as represented in Fig. 10, and
enters it on the spiral guide Q and passes it over or round the latter, as
in Fig. 11, whereby the loop is directed to, and by the continued rotation
of the hook round or over the shuttle H.
When the hook G arrives in the position represented in Fig. 12
relatively to the shuttle the loop passed over it by the hook is ready to
be cast from it, this is during the early portion of the advance movement
of the needle, but before it penetrates the cloth again and when the
loop is ready to be thus cast off the hook and shuttle the stud / of the
spindle g of the hook mounts the cam i to counteract the effect of the
spring and release the loop. At this point (see Fig. 12) the vibrating
or reciprocating take-up R is in an inward position ready to take a fresh
line of thread from the needle and draw it outwards, as represented in
Fig. 13, which action takes up the slack of the cast loop, and after which
the feed of the cloth takes place and the needle penetrates the cloth
again and so that the next loop formed by the needle as it commences
to retire is interlaced with the double thread or loop of the take-up, as
represented in Fig. 14, and the revolving hook G taking hold of said
interlaced needle thread loop carries it on to the guide Q. of the shuttle
for passage round or over the latter as before, and while this is taking
place, as shewn in Fig. 15, the reciprocating take-up R works inwards
to give thread to the revolving hook and ultimately to cast off the thread
from the take-up, the succeeding outward action of which latter draws
tight the stitch.
When applying this stitch to button holes, the material, of which
⚫ there may be one or more thicknesses, is disposed on the cloth table so
that the thread is whipped over the edge or edges of the slit, then the
stitch has the appearance represented in Figures 16, 17, and 18 of the
Drawings, and in which the thread is whipped in double lines over the
edge of the cloth W, and each of such double whippings united by a
single line of the same thread, the whole forming an over hand single
thread lock stitch.

page_text: A special feeding mechanism in place of the feeding devices hercin-
before described, or in place of feeding the cloth by hand and specially
adapted to sewing button holes is illustrated in Figures 19, 20, 21, 22,
23, and 24 of the Drawings. The use of this mechanism does not
however necessarily involve any change in the stitch or in the devices
(irrespective of the feed) herein-before described for producing said
stitch, but the feeding device may be combined therewith in the same
machine by a suitable construction of the main frame for the purpose.
In this special feeding mechanism from Figures 19 to 24 inclusive,
the cloth, garment, or portion of garment having the button holes in it
is adjusted on the cloth table or over an arched rise thereon, as herein-
before described, to present the button hole to be stitched in proper
relation with the needle.
The cloth table C is made movable to automatically direct the button
hole across the path of the needle, and to sew all around the button hole
in a continuous manner, including, when desired, an enlarged eye at the
one end of the button hole as usual in coat and other button holes.
Thus the cloth table C in this special feeding mechanism is of an irre-
gular or cam-like shape with teeth or notched portions a³, a², on opposite
sides of its edge, and with an oblong slot 62 in its centre. This table is
provided on its under surface with a facing c of leather or other suitable
material, which rests on an intermittently revolving disc B³, and so that
the friction of said facing c² will cause the table C, except when other-
wise directed, as herein-after described, to revolve in common with the
disc B. The table is held in position on the disc with-freedom at times
to slide or move across the latter by a guide pin or upward extension of
the arbor d³ on which the disc turns, said arbor or guide entering the
slot in the table. Furthermore, the table is connected with the disc
by a pine attached to the table, and entering an excentric groove ƒ³ in
the upper surface of the disc. This connection of the table and disc,
in conjunction with certain guiding or stopping devices herein-after
described, effects the straight movement of the table across the disc
when sewing the straight or side portions of the button hole, during
which the slot b* in the table occupies a transverse position in relation
to the sewing needle.

page_text: concentric groove g³ in the under side of the disc.
This friction clamp
may be of an ordinary or any suitable construction to intermittently
revolve the disc in direction of the arrow a³, Fig. 20, by the vibrating
action of the friction clamp or lever C³, a stationary friction pad or
brake D or its equivalent being applied to the periphery of the disc to
prevent it being turned backwards during the. back action of the friction
clamp or lever C². Motion is communicated to said vibrating friction
clamp or lever from a revolving crank Fº of a vertical shaft ², a lever G³
connected by a rod with the crank, and having its fulcrum at k³, and
a rod H² connecting the opposite end of said lever with a slotted
portion of the friction clamp or lover C³.
When the parts are in the position represented in Fig. 19 of the
Drawings the table O is about to move in the direction of the arrow y¹
to stitch along the one side ♬ of the button holc, shewn in Fig. 26, from
the eye m² at the one end of the button hole, such motion of the table
being effected by the combined action of the excentric groove fº of the
intermittently revolving disc B³ on the pin e* attached to the table, the
guide pin or arbor d³ in the slot b³, and a projection n² of a spring bolt
or catch I³ connected with the under side of the table, said projection n³
during such action sliding along a straight guide J³ till the projection
passes beyond a shoulder of of the guide J. The table C is then free to
be turned through its frictional contact with the disc B² by the action of
the friction lever or clamp Cª³ to sew around the end m³ of the button
hole, during which action a cam a³ on the disc B³ acts on a pin bª of a
lever K² to draw the rod H² inwards along the slotted portion of the
friction clamp, as shewn on Fig. 20, whereby the disc B² and table C
have a quicker movement while the turn is being made round the end m³
of the button hole (Fig. 26). So soon as the table C has thus been turned
half a circle to bring the opposite side 13 of the button hole opposite the
sewing needle, a spring c³ acts on the lever K* to cause the pin 6³ to be
drawn inwards against the disc B³, and so that said lever throws the
rod H³ outwards along the slotted portion ² of the friction clamp, thereby
again reducing the throw or action of the friction clamp C³ to give a
slower feed as the table C in its reversed position again travels in the
direction of the arrow y² to sew along the side of the button hole
(Fig. 26). During this action the projection n² of the spring catch I²
travels in an inward direction along a guide L2 till arrested by the
general peripherical surface of the disc, as shewn in Fig. 24. The

page_text: table C is then turned backwards for a short distance in the direction of
arrow x³ to start the needle at the junction of the eye m² of the button
hole with the straight side of the button hole last stitched. This is done
by a pawle m² gearing with one of the notches a² in the table C, said
pawle being attached to a lever N° operated through a rod d³ by the
crank F. The pawle M³ is thus allowed to operate the table C at-this
period by a spring carrier Of acting on the back of a toothed catch P³ to
throw the latter into one of a pair of notches e³ in the disc B* when the
springs on the back of the pawle M* throws the latter into gear with
the table C, as described. At this point the pawle M³ is operated by
the lever N° to turn the table C backwards in the direction of arrow 23
till the projection n³ of the spring catch I enters a notch g' in tho
disc B², after which the disc B³ and table O are rotated in common in
direction of the arrow by means of the friction lever or clamp C², the
toothed catch P being then thrown and held out by the disc B² to keep
the pawle M² away from the table C. The projection n² of the spring.
catch I having thus entered the notch the same is at liberty to pass
the inner end of the guide L³ as the table C and disc B* are rotated in
common to sew around the eye m² of the button hole, during which the
cam a³ on the disc again acts on the pin b³ of the lever K to draw in
the rod H along the slotted portion 3 of the friction clamp C² to
quicken the movement of the table while turning the eye. The table C
continues to turn in common with the disc B till the projection n² of
the spring catch I rides over a cam R* (see Fig. 23) which draws the
catch out of lock with the notch 7 of the disc, at which time the
pawle M² falls into gear with the other notch a of the table by the other
notch e in the disc having come round to allow of the toothed catch P
falling into it; and the table C is again moved back a short distance to
allow of the projection n² on the spring catch I² riding over the guide J
in front or on the one side of it, as represented in Fig. 19, to commence
the sewing of another button hole as before. To allow of the projection n³
thus riding over the guide J the latter is made yielding, being pivotted
or hinged at its one end and borne up by a spring. To sew a straight
button hole of similar rounded configuration at both of its ends, as in
Fig. 25, it is only necessary to disconnect the, pawle M³ from gear with
the table C.

page_text: and in the Stitch produced thereby," as communicated to me by my
foreign correspondents, and explained the manner of carrying the same
into effect, I wish it to be understood that under the above in part
recited Letters Patent I claim,―
First. The process of producing a button hole and binding or whipping
stitch by interlacing a loop of the needle thread after its passage through
the cloth with a loop of the same thread formed without passing it
through the cloth, and then passing the outside or supply portion of said
thread through the above first named loop, substantially as specified.
Secondly. The combination of the revolving hook disc J with its rib d,
the lenticular shuttle H with its crease e, the bobbin O, the spring f, the
revolving stud h, and the cam i, essentially as and for the purpose herein
set forth.
Thirdly. The combination of the revolving hook G with the shuttle
and attached eye pointed needle, the whole being arranged to reciprocate
in common essentially as described.
Fourthly. The combination with the revolving crank K of the con-
necting rod L pivotted intermediately of its length to a sliding fulcrum
and the curvilinearly slotted arm M, or their equivalents, for driving
the revolving hook, substantially as specified.
Fifthly. The combination of the reciprocating needle thread take up
or secondary looper R with the hook G having in addition to its
revolving motion a reciprocating movement in common with the shuttle
and attached eye pointed needle, substantially as specified.
Sixthly. The combination with the table C made to turn and move in a
a straight line, as described, of the cam a³ on the disc B³, the pin b³ of
the lever K², and the slotted friction-clamp or lever C³, substantially as
specified.
Seventhly. The combination of the intermittently revolving disc B³
with its excentric groove f*, the pin e on the table C, the oblong slot b³, {
the arbor and guide d; the spring catch or bolt I and the guides J³, L³,
essentially as described.
Eighthly. The combination with the spring bolt or catch I2 of the
notch in the disc B³, the pivotted guide J' formed with a shoulder o³,
and the fixed cam R², substantially as specificd.
3

page_text: Ninthly. The table O arranged to operate as described, and having
notched portions a³, a³, or their equivalents, in combination-with the
pawle M, the toothed catch P³, and the notches e³ in the disc B³,
essentially as described.
Tenthly. The combination of the spring carrier O2 with the toothed
catch P, the pawle M³, the intermittently revolving disc B² with the
notches e, and the cloth table C having notched portions a², a², sub-
stantially as described.
Lastly. The combination of the brake D' with the friction lever or
clamp 0, the disc B³, and the cloth table C, essentially as and for the
purposes herein set forth.
In witness whereof, I, the said Alfred Vincent Newton, have
hereunto set my hand and seal, the First day of June, in the
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-
five