IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF HATS AND OTHER COVERINGS FOR THE HEAD AND IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR USE THEREIN
Year: 1883

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to John Henry Johnson, of 47 Lincolns Inn Fields in the
County of Middlesex, Gentleman for an Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN
THE MANUFACTURE OF HATS AND OTHER COVERINGS FOR THE HEAD AND
IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR USE THEREIN "
⚫communicated to him
from Charles Henry Willcox, of New York City in the County and State
of New York, United States of America
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said John Henry Johnson at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 13th November 1883.
"
JOHN HENRY JOHNSON of 47 Lincolns Inn Fields in the County of Middlesex
Gentleman "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF HATS AND OTHER
COVERINGS FOR THE HEAD AND IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR USE THEREIN
a communication to me from Charles Henry Willcox of New York City in the
County and State of New York United States of America
This Invention consists firstly in certain Improvements in attaching covered
wire or its equivalent, as cord for example to the brims of hats or bonnets. The
said improvements are more particularly designed for felt articles but are applicable
in whole or in part to those of other materials to straw hats for example.
Heretofore covered wire has been stitched to hat brims by means of a sewing
machine, the seam being run outside the wire between it and the edge of the
brim. The necessary consequence is that the wire is some distance inside the
said edge.
.
The first improvement consists in running the seam inside the wire or on the
side of the wire away from the edge. In this way the wire is brought much closer
to the edge than heretofore.
The second improvement consists in making the stitches pass obliquely through,
the brim, so that they pass out of the felt or other material into the covering of
the wire or into the cord at the very edge itself, or if not at the edge yet very:
close thereto. The effect of this is that the wire or cord is or may be attached
along the very edge to which it gives a finish and forms a protection, instead of
Din 71

page_text: being sewed in place under the body of the brim at a greater or less distance from
the edge as heretofore.
The third improvement consists in bevelling the edge to which the wire or cord
is to be secured. It enables the oblique stitches to have a stronger hold in the
material of the brim than where the edge is left square. Beveling may also be
resorted to where the stitching passes directly or perpendicularly through the fabric
the object being to enable the wire or cord to be attached along, or as close as may
be to the edge.
The hat, bonnet or other article of head wear, having a wire or cord stitched
along the edge of the brim constitutes a new article of manufacture.
善
Heretofore the wire or cord has always been secured on the face of the brim
at a greater or less distance from the edge. This new manufacture should be
distinguished from hats or bonnets in which a cord or reed is attached along the
edge of the brim by a braid folded around the cord or reed with its edges over-
lapping the brim on opposite sides thereof, the sewing being through the braid and
the brim. In the present Invention the covered wire is substantially a cord with
a metal core and is sewed directly to the brim.
This part of the Invention also comprises the new machinery for attaching the
wire or cord to the brim in the manner setforth.
The Invention secondly consists in a device for cutting the felt or other suitable
fabric on a bevel, so as to give a bevelled edge to the hat brim. The said device
comprises in combination with the blade or blades of shears, scissors or other
cutting apparatus means for bending the material to be cut so that the cutting edge
or edges will act upon and sever the fabric obliquely to the surface.
The Invention thirdly consists in improvements in the tension apparatus of straw
hat sewing machines. In sewing straw braids into bats and bonnets it is found
desirable to have a heavier tension upon the thread in sewing the centre or tip
than in sewing the outer circles. The object of the improvement is to enable the
operator readily to effect the change from the heavier to the lighter tension and
vice versa.
The change may be effected with the ordinary tension apparatus, by
turning the usual set screw or set nut, but the changing would take much of
the Operator's time and it would be difficult to restore accurately the previous
adjustment. The first improvement under this head consists in providing means
additional to the ordinary adjusting devices, whereby the extra tension may be
applied without altering the ordinary or normal adjustment-This improvement
is applicable to tension apparatus in which the thread passes around a wheel or
pulley which turns as the thread is drawn forward, and to which the friction is
applied to produce the tension as well as to those which clamp the thread between
disks or washers and produce the tension by the pressure thereon ;-
This part of the Invention also comprises a second improvement applicable to the
apparatus which produce tension by clamping the thread It consists in combining
with the tension disks or washers which are mounted on a stud friction devices
adapted to prevent the disks or washers from turning by the drawing through of
the thread but permitting the disks or washers or either of them to be turned by
hand whenever the surface becomes worn by the thread,
In carrying the improvements constituting the first part of the Invention into
effect, the bottom of the presser foot on the side away from the gooseneck is
bevelled or inclined the bevel extending nearly to the line of seam and being about
forty five degrees to the vertical. The top of the feed dog which is roughened and
constitutes the feed surface and the top of the work rest are each inclined in the
same manner and to the same extent The work rest is notched or grooved
vertically opposite the needle to permit the free passage of the said needle. When
the presser foot is let down upon the work it clamps the hat brim in a position
oblique to the line of reciprocation of the needle.
The work rest which takes the place of a throat plate and may of course be
rigidly fastened to the cloth or work plate, may be attached to a plate which is
attached to the work plate by a set screw. The groove constituting the wire guide
-

page_text: is formed in the thickened end of the said plate, the extra thickness forming a
tongue which fits within a hole in the cloth or work plate. The outer edge of the
tongue and of the opening in the cloth or work plate are inclined to the line of
feed. In the bottom of the groove are formed the needle hole and thread slot.-In
front of the needle at the top of the groove are overhanging lips so that the slot or
opening thereinto is less in width than the diameter of the groove. The said lips
assist in retaining the wire in the groove into which it is sprung or pressed in
starting the machine. The needle may be flattened on the inner or gooseneck side,
so that the point is nearer that side than the other and the wire guide is arranged
with the axis of the groove on the gooseneck side of the point so that the needle
will penetrate the covering of the wire on the side away from the gooseneck.
The work guide is undercut near the bottom so that the upper part will project
beyond the guiding edge. In operation the upper part is adjusted close alongside
of the needle but not in actual contact therewith. If the needle in passing through
the felt should be turned towards the wire in consequence of the longer bevel on
the opposite side of the point, the needle makes contact with the said upper part
and is prevented from bending sufficiently to strike the wire inside the covering.
The brim of a hat or bonnet has its edge cut on a bevel of about 45° (although
the angle is not essential) inclining inward from the underside of the brim so that
the thin edge is at the said underside. The covered wire to be attached is sprung
into the groove and the brim placed above with its underside uppermost and the
thin edge resting against the guiding edge of the work guide The bevelled edge
of the brim then rests upon the covered wire and the machine being started the
needle pierces the hat brim, passing out of the felt about the middle of the bevelled
edge and immediately penetrating the covering close alongside of the enclosed wire
The stitches thus attach the wire to the bevelled edge so that it forms a protection.
and finish to the brim.
If it be desired to attach a cord it is done in substantially the same manner, the
needle after passing obliquely through the brim penetrating the cord at a suitable
distance from the edge to get a secure hold.
The seam which is run through the wire covering or cord is in the article on the .
inside of the wire, or the same side with the body of the article.
The brim is attached to or made in one piece with the hat or bonnet in the
ordinary or in any suitable way.
It is evident that modifications may be made in details without departing from
the spirit of the Invention and also that one or more of the Improvements may be
used separately. For example as described the needle does not pass through the
thickness of the felt since it passes out before reaching the opposite side (underside
as it is placed in the machine) and this is decidedly the best way and to accomplish
it, is the principal object of the oblique stitching and the bevelling, but either or
both of them may be resorted to in order to bring the seam near instead of on the
edge. The covered wire or cord may be attached to a brim with square edges by a
seam inside the wire or axis of the cord by stitches which pass perpendicularly
through the work.
A device for cutting on a bevel constructed in accordance with the second part
of the Invention consists as follows.-
The shears or scissors are of ordinary construction, but a tipping piece is secured
to one of the blades so as to project beyond the edge of said blade--The distance
which the tipping piece projects beyond the cutting edge depends upon the width
of the blade and the angle which it is desired to cut.
The tipping piece may be formed of various materials and shapes and be attached
in a variety of ways.
For example it may be a brass plate which is set in a recess in the steel blade
and is secured therein by soldering.
In use the blade provided with the said attachment is held down.
The principal object of the instrument is to bevel the edge of hat brims prepa-
ratory to wiring in the manner before described-For this purpose the brim is

page_text: placed wrong side up, so that the under blade which carries the tipping piece is on
the outer or right side of the brim.
Tension apparatus is constructed in accordance with the third part of the
Invention as follows.-
There is the support for the tension apparatus which may be a portion of the
frame of the machine for sewing straw hats. There are also tension disks or
washers upon central stud with a nut on the upper split end of the said stud-An
arched spring plate rests upon the outer tension disk or washer a cup surrounding
the central stud just beneath the nut. A spiral compression spring surrounds the
central stud and is enclosed in the cap and a cap surrounding it and capable of
sliding thereover-Projecting from the support are the pins serving as thread
guides A screw is provided for preventing the central stud from turning, a nut
engaging the lower split end of the central stud there being an arm or handle for
turning the said nut.
The support is bored vertically for the passage of the central stud. It is hollowed
on top to form an annular bearing for the inner disk or washer near the circum-
ference thereof. At the bottom the bore is enlarged to receive the aforesaid nut
and a slot is formed through the enclosing wall on one side for the reception of
the handle. A hole is made above this slot to receive the aforesaid central stud
fastening screw.
The said central stud fits loosely within the support and opposite the said
fastening screw is a groove into which the end of said screw extends so that the
said stud is prevented from turning but is allowed a limited endwise movement.
The cap and the cup are free to move up and down and by turning the nut at
the top of the stud the spring will be compressed to a greater or less degree BO
that the clamping action of the tension disks or washers upon the thread will be
increased or diminished. The nut on the lower end of the stud prevents it from
moving in either direction except as the said nut is turned in the proper direction
by the handle attached thereto. The thread at the lower end of the stud is coarse
so that a small turn allowed by the slot in which the handle moves gives a
comparatively large endwise movement to the central stud and produces a corre-
sponding effect in the compression of the spring. The thread on the upper end of
the stud is on the contrary fine so that a nice adjustment may be made.
The arched plate or spring washer has a bar which fits with the slit or slot in
the upper end of the central stud and prevents the said plate or washer from
turning. The friction between the tension disks or washers and the annular
bearings of the arched plate or spring washer above and the support below
prevents them from turning under the action of the thread which is passed around
the pins.
When the clamping surfaces wear the disks or washers are shifted.
: The normal tension is adjusted by turning the upper or thumb nut. The extra
tension is put on or taken off by turning the lower nut by its handle
Since the lower nut draws down the thumb nut along with the stud it is obvious
that each adjustment of the said thumb nut alters the tension which the apparatus
has when the stud is depressed as well as when it is raised. The tension may in
fact be adjusted while the stud is depressed without moving the lower nut the
handle thereof would ordinarily be moved the full length of its slot but it is not
necessary so to do unless the full increase of the tension be desired.
The arrangement of the devices for producing the extra tension at the bottom
of the stud is very convenient since they are then entirely out of the way and in
nowise interfere with the threads or manipulation of the tension disks or
washers.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed
by the said John Henry Johnson in the Patent Office on the 12th May 1884.
JOHN HENRY JOHNSON of 47 Lincoln's Inn Fields in the County of Middlesex
Gentleman "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF HATS AND OTHER
COVERINGS FOR THE HEAD AND IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR USE THEREIN
a communication to me from Charles Henry Willcox of New York City in the
County and State of New York, United States of America
"
This Invention consists firstly in certain improvements in attaching covered wire
or its equivalent as cord for example to the brims of hats or bonnets. The said
improvements are more particularly designed for felt articles but are applicable in
whole or in part to those of other materials, to straw hats for example.
Heretofore covered wire has been stitched to hat brims by means of a sewing
machine, the seam being run outside the wire, between it and the edge of the
brim. The necessary consequence is that the wire is some distance inside the said
edge.
The first improvement consists in running the seam inside the wire or on the
side of the wire away from the edge. In this way the wire is brought much closer
to the edge than heretofore.
The second improvement consists in making the stitches pass obliquely through
the brim so that they pass out of the felt or other material into the covering of the
wire or into the cord at the very edge itself or if not at the edge yet very close
thereto. The effect of this is that the wire or cord is or may be attached along the
very edge to which it gives a finish and forms a protection instead of being sewed
in place under the body of the brim at a greater or less distance from the edge as
heretofore.
The third improvement consists in bevelling the edge to which the wire or cord
is to be secured. It enables the oblique stitches to have a stronger hold in the
material of the brim than where the edge is left square. Bevelling may also be
resorted to where the stitching passes directly or perpendicularly through the
fabric, the object being to enable the wire or cord to be attached along or as close
as may be to the edge.
The hat, bonnet, or other article of head wear, having a wire or cord stitched
along the edge of the brim constitutes a new articles of manufacture.
}
Heretofore the wire or cord has always been secured on the face of the brim at a
greater or less distance from the edge. This new manufacture should be
distinguished from hats or bonnets in which a cord or reed is attached along the
edge of the brim by a braid folded around the cord or reed with its edges over-
lapping the brim on opposite sides thereof, the sewing being through the braid and
the brim. In the present invention the covered wire is substantially a cord with
a. metal core, and is sewed directly to the brim.
This part of the invention also comprises the new machinery for attaching the
wire or cord to the brim in the manner set forth.
The Invention secondly consists in a device for cutting the felt or other suitable
fabric on a bevel, so as to give a bevelled edge to the hat brim. The said device.
comprises in combination with the blade or blades of shears, scissors or other cutting
apparatus, means for bending the material to be cut so that the cutting edge or.
edges will act upon and sever the fabric obliquely to the surface.
The Invention thirdly consists in improvements in the tension apparatus of straw
hat sewing machines. In sewing straw braids into hats and bonnets it is found
:

page_text: desirable to have a heavier tension upon the thread in sewing the centre or tip
than in sewing the outer circles. The object of the improvement is to enable the
operator readily to effect the change from the heavier to the lighter tension
and vice versa. The change may be effected with the ordinary tension apparatus
by turning the usual set screw or set nut, but the changing would take much of
the operators time and it would be difficult to restore accurately the previous
adjustment. The first improvement under this head consists in providing means
additional to the ordinary adjusting devices whereby the extra tension may be
applied without altering the ordinary or normal adjustment. This improvement
is applicable to tension apparatus in which the thread passes around a wheel or
pulley which turns as the thread is drawn forward and to which the friction is
applied to produce the tension, as well as to those which clamp the thread between
discs or washers and produce the tension by the pressure thereon; but it will be
shown herein as embodied in the latter form only. This part of the invention also
comprises a second improvement applicable to the apparatus which produce tension
by clamping the thread. It consists in combining with the tension discs or
washers which are mounted on a stud, friction devices adapted to prevent the discs
or washers from turning by the drawing through of the thread, but permitting the
dises or washers or either of them to be turned by hand whenever the surface
becomes worn by the thread.
The improvements constituting the first part of the Invention and the manner in
which the same are or may be carried into effect are illustrated in Figures 1 to 7
of the accompanying drawings.
Figure 1 is a front elevation of a machine constructed in accordance with the
Invention. Figure 2 a perspective and front view of the feed dog or piece on
which the feed surface is formed. Figure 3 a perspective of the grooved wire guide
and work rest Figure 4 a top and a bottom perspective of the presser foot
Figure 5 a vertical section through the needle and guides transverse to the line of
feed.showing the hat brim and covered wire in place. Figure 6 a perspective of a
part of a hat brim with the covered wire attached and Figure 7 a perspective of
part of a hat brim with a cord attached. The machine shown is the hat sewing
machine manufactured by the Willcox and Gibbs Sewing Machine Company and
need not be particularly described.
A is the cloth or work plate. B the work guide, C a plate which carries the
wire guide D and work rest E: F the feed dog, G the presser foot and H the
needle. The bottom of the presser foot on the side away from the gooseneck is
bevelled or inclined, the bevel extending nearly to the line of seam and being
about forty five degrees tothe vertical. The top of the feed dog F which is roughened
and constitutes the feed surface and the top of the work rest E are each inclined
in the same manner and to the same extent. The work rest is notched or grooved
vertically opposite the needle to permit the free passage of the said needle. When
the presser foot is let down upon the work it clamps the hat brim in a position
oblique to the line of reciprocation of the needle.
The work rest E which takes the place of a throat plate and may of course be
rigidly fastened to the cloth or work plate, is shewn attached to the plate O which
is attached to the work plate by a set screw a. The groove constituting the wire
guide is formed in the thickened end of the plate C, the extra thickness forming &
tongue which fits within a hole in the Cloth or work plate. The outer edge of the
tongue and of the opening in the cloth or work plate are inclined to the line of
feed. In the bottom of the groove are formed the needle hole and thread slot.
In front of the needle at the top of the groove are overhanging lips b, so that the slot
or opening thereinto is less in width than the diameter of the groove. The lips b
assist in retaining the wire in the groove into which it is sprung or pressed in
starting the machine. The needle H is flattened on the inner or gooseneck side,
so that the point is nearer that side than the other and the wire guide is arranged
with the axis of the groove on the gooseneck side of the point so that the needle
will penetrate the covering of the wire on the side away from the gooseneck.

page_text: The work guide B is undercut near the bottom so that the upper part c will
project beyond the guiding edge d. In operation the upper part c is adjusted
close alongside of the needle but not in actual contact therewith. If the needle
in passing through the felt should be turned towards the wire in consequence
of the longer bevel on the opposite side of the point, the needle makes contact
with the part c and is prevented from bending sufficiently to strike the wire
inside the covering.
The operation will be readily understood by reference to Figure 5. The brim K
of a hat or bonnet has its edge cut on a bevel of about 45 degrees (although the
angle is not essential) inclining inward from the underside of the brim so that the
thin edge is at the said underside. The covered wire L to be attached is sprung
into the groove D and the brim placed above with its underside uppermost and
the thin edge resting against the guiding edge d of the work guide B. The
bevelled edge of the brim then rests upon the covered wire and the machine being
started the needle pierces the hat brim passing out of the felt about the middle of
the bevelled edge and immediately penetrating the covering close alongside of the
enclosed wire. The stitches thus attach the wire to the bevelled edge so that it
forms a protection and finish to the brim.
If it be desired to attach a cord it is done in substantially the same manner, the
needle after passing obliquely through the brim penetrating the cord at a suitable
distance from the edge to get a secure hold.
The seam which is run through the wire covering or cord is in the article on the
inside of the wire or same side with the body of the article.
In Figures 6 and 7 only the brim is shewn. It is attached to or made in one
piece with the hat or bonnet in the ordinary or in any suitable way.
It is evident that modifications may be made in details without departing from
the spirit of the invention and also that one or more of the improvements may be
used separately. For example, as described, the needle does not pass through the
thickness of the felt, since it passes out before reaching the opposite side (underside
as it is placed in the machine) and this is decidedly the best way and to accomplish
it is the principal object of the oblique stitching and the bevelling; but either or
both of them may be resorted to in order to bring the seam near, instead of on the
edge. The wire guide with the lips at the top to retain the wire in the groove is
believed to be new. It is not, however, necessary to employ it unless desired as the
machine would be operative without it. It is preferred to use the centre pointed
needle with one side cut away or flattened as before described, but its use while
considered an improvement in attaching wire is not essential, as covered wire can
be practically attached with the ordinary centre pointed needle, as well as with the
needle having the point in the plane of one of its sides. The covered wire or cord
may be attached to a brim with square edges by a seam inside the wire or axis of
the cord by stitches which pass perpendicularly through the work.
A device for cutting on a bevel constructed in accordance with the second part of
the invention is illustrated in Figures 8, 9 and 10 of the accompanying drawings,
Figures 8 and 9 being side views of the device and Figure 10 a cross section of the
blades.
The shears or scissors are of ordinary construction, but a tipping piece A is
secured to one of the blades B so as to project beyond the edge of blade B. The
distance which the tipping piece projects beyond the cutting edge depends upon
the width of the blade and the angle which it is desired to cut. As shewn, the tipping
piece projects about one twenty fourth part of an inch and the cutting edge is about
one thirty second of an inch distant from the nearest point of the tipping piece.
The tipping piece may be formed of various materials and shapes and be attached
in a variety of ways. As shown it is in the form of a brass plate which is set in a
recess in the steel blade and is secured therein by soldering. In use the blade B is
held down.
The principal object of the instrument is to bevel the edge of hat brims

page_text: preparatory to wiring in the manner before described. For this purpose the brim
is placed wrong side up so that the under blade B which carries the tipping piece is
on the outer or right side of the brim.
Figures 11 to 14 represent a tension apparatus constructed in accordance with
the third part of the Invention, Figure 11 being an elevation, Figure 12 a section,
Figure 13 a plan and Figure 14 a separate plan of one of the parts.
A is the support for the tension apparatus, being as shewn a portion of the frame
of the machine for sewing straw hats. BC are the tension discs or washers, D the
central stud, E a nut on the upper split end of said stud-F the arched spring
plate resting upon the outer tension disc or washer B-G a cup surrounding the
central stud just beneath the nut E. I a spiral compression spring surrounding
the central stud and enclosed in the cup G and Cap H. K the pins serving as
thread guides. La screw for preventing the central stud from turning. M a nut
engaging the lower split end of the central stud, and N an arm or handle for
turning the nut M.
The support A is bored vertically for the passage of the central stud D. It is
hollowed on top to form an annular bearing for the inner disc or washer C near
the circumference thereof. At the bottom the bore is enlarged to receive the
nut M and a slot is cut through the enclosing wall on one side for the reception of
the handle N. A hole is made above this slot to receive the screw L.
The stud D fits loosely within the support A and opposite the screw L is a
groove (shown in dotted lines in figure 12) into which the end of said screw
extends so that the said stud is prevented from turning but is allowed a limited
end wise movement.
The cap H and the cup G are free to move up and down and by turning the
nut E the spring I will be compressed to a greater or less degree so that the
clamping action of the tension discs or washers upon the thread will be increased
or diminished. The nut M on the lower end of the stud prevents it from moving
in either direction except as the said nut is turned in the proper direction by the
handle N which as shown is tapped into the side of the nut. The thread at the
lower end of the stud is coarse so that a small turn allowed by the slot in which
the handle N moves gives a comparatively large endwise movement to the central
stud and produces a corresponding effect in the compression of the spring.
thread on the upper end of the stud is on the contrary fine so that a nice
adjustment may be made.
The
The arched plate or spring washer has a bar which fits with the slit or slot in
the upper end of the central stud and prevents the said plate or washer from
turning. The friction between the tension discs or washers and the annular
bearings of the arched plate or spring washer above and the support A below
prevents them from turning under the action of the thread (which is passed around
the pins as shewn in Figure 13). When the clamping surfaces wear, the discs or
washers are shipted.
The normal tension is adjusted by turning the upper nut or thumb nut E.-The
extra tension is put on or taken off by turning the lower nut M by its handle N
Since the nut M draws down the thumb nut E along with the stud D it is obvious
that each adjustment of the said thumb nut alters the tension which the apparatus
has when the stud is depressed as well as when it is raised. The tension may in
fact be adjusted while the stud is depressed without moving the nut M; the
handle N would ordinarily be moved the full length of its slot but it is not
necessary so to do unless the full increase of the tension be desired.
The arrangement of the devices for producing the extra tension at the bottom of
the stud is very convenient since they are then entirely out of the way and in no-
wise interfere with the threads or manipulation of the tension discs or washers.
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of the said
Invention and the manner in which the same is or may be used or carried into
effect I would observe in conclusion that what I consider to be novel and original

page_text: and therefore claim as the Invention secured to me by the hereinbefore in part
recited Letters Patent is.
First:-The sewing of covered wire or cord to brims of hats and other articles
of head wear by running a seam through the brim and the covering of the wire, or
the cord, inside the wire, or axis of the cord, that is on the side away from the edge
of the hat or other article substantially as hereinbefore described.
Second-Attaching the cord or covered wire by oblique stitching as hereinbefore
set forth.
Third-Bevelling the edge of the brim and attaching the wire or cord to the
bevelled edge substantially as hereinbefore described.
Fourth-Bevelling the edge of the brim and attaching the wire or cord by
oblique stitches to the said brim substantially as hereinbefore described.
Fifth A hat or other article of head wear having a wire or cord attached to
the brim along the edge thereof in the manner hereinbefore described so as to
constitute a finish and protection to said edge.
Sixth-The machinery for stitching obliquely through the edge of the hat brim
substantially as hereinbefore described.
Seventh-The combination with the sewing mechanism, of the wire guide
inclined work rest, and inclined presser foot, substantially as hereinbefore
described.
Eighth The work guide arranged to form a bearing to the needle having an
eccentric point substantially as hereinbefore described.
:
Ninth The grooved wire guide having the inwardly projecting lips to-retain
the wire in the groove substantially as hereinbefore described.
Tenth-The device for cutting on a bevel, comprising one or more tipping
pieces in combination with a cutter or cutters substantially as hereinbefore
described..
Eleventh-The employment in connection with the adjusting means of a
tension apparatus, of additional devices for imparting an extra tension without
altering the adjustment of the aforesaid means substantially as herein before
described.
Twelfth-The arrangement whereby the support or carrier for the customary
adjusting means is moved to impart the extra tension substantially as hereinbefore
described.
Thirteenth-In a tension apparatus having discs or washers mounted on a stud,
the means for applying friction to the said discs or washers or either of them near
the circumference thereof so as to prevent the same from turning under the action
of the thread drawn between them substantially as hereinbefore described.
In witness whereof I the said John Henry Johnson have to this my Specification
set my hand and seal this ninth day of May One thousand eight hundred and
eighty four,