Improvements in Outting and Making Trousers, Breeches, and other similar Garments.
Year: 1889

page_text: Date of Application, 11th June, 1889
Complete Specification Left, 11th Mar., 1890-Accepted, 3rd May, 1890
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Outting and Making Trousers, Breeches, and
other similar Garments.
I WILLIAM WALLACE CRISP of 27 Theobalds Road, Bloomsbury London
Merchant Tailor do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
The object of this invention is to ensure comfort and ease to the wearer combined
with a perfect fit and also to effect a considerable economy in the quantity of material
used in making up, trousers breeches and other similar garments.
This I effect by cutting the material in such a manner that when made up the inside
seams are so placed that they cannot gall or irritate the wearer at the same time
that increased spring and elasticity is given to the trousers and a graceful and perfect
fit ensured.
ELT & Co.,
33, Southampton Buildings, Holborn, London, Agents.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Outting and Making Trousers, Breeches, and
other similar Garments.
I WILLIAM WALLACE CRISP of 27 Theobalds Road, Bloomsbury, London, Merchant
Tailor, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement :-
The object of this invention is firstly to ensure a perfect fit in trousers and other
similar garments combined with ease and comfort to the wearer and secondly to effect
a considerable economy in the material required therefor.
My invention more particularly applies to the inside leg and fork seams of trousers
and other similar garments which seams are so made that they cannot gall or irritate
the wearer.
In the accompanying drawings Figs. 1 and 2 shew plan views of the top
and undersides of a leg of a pair of trousers cut according to my invention and Fig. 3
shews a back view of a pair of trousers so cut made up shewing the position of the
inside leg and fork seams. The dotted line in this figure indicates the high seat curve
presently mentioned.
To carry out my invention I take the material which is to form one leg of the
trousers and mark thereon two vertical balance lines a. a. (Figs 1. 2.) which serve
as guides whereby to balance the trousers-I then mark thereon certain working lines
(which are indicated in dotted lines in Figs. 1 and 2) by means whereof the size and
fit of the trousers can be accurately regulated-Such working lines are as follows viz.:-
b knee line-c side spring line-d fork balance line- top line-seat line-g thigh line-
h high seat curve-i low seat curve-jinside leg seam-k seat spring line- bottom line.
The lines 6 and determine the position of the knee and the length of the trousers while
the other lines serve to give the required spring and to balance the trousers-To obtain
the lines c. d. I first find the knee point by measuring from the top line e. I then strike
the fork balance line d upwards from such knee point so as to find the right position
for the fork. I then strike the side spring line c' downwards so as to find the right
position for the leg seam and thus prevent the trousers dragging.
The exact positions of the various working lines are governed by the particular size
and shape of the trousers to be made.
Having so marked out such working lines I then cut out the trousers. Whether
they are cut out with a high seat curve as indicated by the line h (Fig. 1) or with a
C

page_text: low seat curve as indicated by the line i (Fig. 1) it will take away all seams from the
fork thus avoiding friction of the material and prolonging the wear of the trousers
If however they are cut out with a. low seat curve a considerable economy in the
quantity of material used is effected when making a number of pairs of trousers. Thus
for instance by my improved system of cutting, ten pairs of trousers can be readily
cut from a piece of material which by the ordinary method of cutting would be only
sufficient to produce eight pairs. It is therefore obvious that in large contracts as.in
the case of; military, police, and other uniforms, an immense saving would be effected,
while the comfort and convenience of the wearers would be greatly increased.
: In practice it will be found very convenient to cut the top and undersides one upon
the other thus avoiding marking many of the working lines in duplicate. Preferably
I cut the top and underside of each leg of the trouser in one piece, thus dispensing
with the present outside seams. This effects a further economy in the labor of
manufacture. If desired however such outside seams may be retained as they do not
prejudice or affect the fit of the trousers. When the trousers are made up the inside
leg seams are more towards the back of each leg than heretofore. One advantage of
this arrangement is that little if any strain is put on the trousers by the movements
of the wearer, whereby the trousers are prevented from bagging at the knees.
In making up trousers after they have been cut out in the manner hereinbefore,
described and shewn, the point 1 is brought to the point 2 the point 3 to the point 4'
and the point 5 to the point 6. The two edges are then closed thus forming one leg
of the trousers."
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is,
1° In a pair of trousers or other similar garments, cutting and making the same
with either a high or low seat curve, forming a corresponding fork seam from whence
the two inside leg seams branch off in an inclined curvilinear sweep, and descend to
the bottom of each leg, where they respectively terminate at any convenient point ;
all substantially as herein before described and shewn.
2° In combination with such improved method or system of cutting and making
trousers and other similar garments, cutting and making the top and undersides of
each leg in one piece, so as to dispense with the outside seams, all substantially in the
manner and for the purpose hereinbefore described.
Dated this 11th day of March 1800
ELT & Co.,
33, Southampton Buildings, Holborn, London, Agents for the Applicant.