Improvements in Dyeing Silk or Half-silk Goods.
Year: 1891

page_text: Date of Application, 24th Dec., 1891
Complete Specification Left, 21st Sept., 1892-Accepted, 22nd Oct., 1892
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Dyeing Silk or Half-silk Goods.
1, ERNST ZILLESSEN, Senior, of Crefeld, Prussia, Germany, do hereby declare
the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
For some time past so called half-silk goods dyed in piece have been manufactured;
they are made of spun,-not thrown-raw silk drawn off from the cocoons (Grège)
and in these goods the woof consists usually of cotton.
When the goods so obtained are dyed, quite different colouring effects can be
obtained with silk than with cotton. The whole fabric can be dyed either in only
one colour (uni) or in several colours.
In the latter case the colour given to the silk must be a different one from that
given to the cotton.
Silk can only be dyed in the same piece of goods in one and the same colour
except in the case, when the silk ground contains organzine (thrown silk) previously
dyed in grain. In this case the primary colour of the rest of the silk ground can
of course only be quite a light one, such as white, cream-colour &c., because in
dyeing with dark colours the previously dyed organzine threads would be dyed
also in the corresponding colour.
The essential feature of my present invention consists in specially preparing
unthrown raw silk (Grège) before weaving.
For this purpose unthrown raw silk is first treated with metallic mordants such
as metallic oxides or similar substances (iron mordant, mordant of tin salt, chrome
mordant and so on) and then with fats, whereupon the so prepared unthrown raw
silk is woven.
In weaving both prepared and not-prepared unthrown raw silk together accord-
ing to any optional pattern, and then dyeing the obtained fabric with a suitable
colouring matter, it is possible to give the prepared unthrown raw silk a different
colour from that of the unprepared unthrown raw silk and the other threads
contained in the fabric. By treating fabrics in the last described manner, say with
a solution of logwood, the previously treated unthrown raw silk is dyed in black,
while the not treated unthrown raw silk remains light.
The kind of metallic mordant used, and of the solution of the colouring matter
afterwards to be employed depends essentially on the desired tint.
Owing to the use of prepared anthrown raw silk threads it is possible to obtain
in the dyeing of silk or half-silk goods in piece, multi coloured effects and in
particular to give the prepared unthrown raw silk threads dark tints. The other
threads of the pattern may be either unprepared unthrown raw silk threads or
other silk, wool or cotton threads dyed in grain, or they may be threads which
still require to be dyed.
When, for forming the pattern, exclusively prepared unthrown raw silk threads
are used, the fabric may also be dyed in one colour in piece and any desired light
or dark tint may be given to the same.
Dated this 24th day of December 1891.
ABEL & IMKAI,
Agents for the Applicant.

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Dyeing Silk or Half-silk Goods.
1, ERNST ZILLESSEN, Senior, of Crefeld, Prussia, Germany, do hereby declare
the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed to
be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
For some time past so called half-silk goods dyed in piece have been manu-
factured; they are made of spun, not thrown, raw silk drawn off from the cocoons
(Grège) and in these goods the woof consists usually of cotton.
When the goods so obtained are dyed, colouring effects can be obtained different
with silk from those with cotton. The whole fabric can be dyed either in only
one colour (uni) or in several colours.
In the latter case the colour given to the silk must be a different one from that
given to the cotton.
Silk can be dyed in the same piece of goods in one and the same colour only in
the case when the silk ground contains organzine (thrown silk) previously dyed
in grain. In this case the primary colour of the rest of the silk ground can of
course only be quite a light one, such as white, cream colour &c., because in dyeing
with dark colours the previously dyed organzine threads would be dyed also in the
corresponding colour.
The essential feature of my present invention consists in specially preparing
unthrown raw silk (Grège) before weaving.
For this purpose, unthrown raw silk is first treated with metallic mordants such
as metallic oxides or similar substauces (iron mordant, mordant of tin salt, chrome
mordant and so on) and then with fats, whereupon the so prepared unthrown raw
silk is woven.
In weaving both prepared and not prepared unthrown raw silk together accord-
ing to any optional pattern, and then dyeing the obtained fabric with a suitable
colouring matter, it is possible to give the prepared unthrown raw silk a different
colour from that of the unprepared unthrown raw silk and the other threads
contained in the fabric. By treating fabrics in the last described manner, say with
a solution of logwood, the previously treated unthrown raw silk is dyed in black,
while the not treated unthrown raw silk remains light.
The kind of metallic mordant used, and of the solution of the colouring matter
afterwards to be employed depends essentially on the desired tint.
Owing to the use of prepared unthrown raw silk threads it is possible to obtain
in the dyeing of silk or half-silk goods in piece, multi-coloured effects and in
particular to give the prepared unthrown raw silk threads dark tints. The other
threads of the pattern may be either unprepared unthrown raw silk threads or
other silk, wool or cotton threads dyed in grain, or they may be threads which still
require to be dyed.
When, for forming the pattern, exclusively prepared untbrown raw silk threads
are used, the fabric may also be dyed in one colour in piece and any desired light
or dark tint may be given to the same.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of this inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
In the dyeing of silk or half-silk goods the preliminary treatment, with a
metallic mordant suited to the desired colour, of the unthrown raw silk before it
is woven with like silk or with other dyed or undyed silk, wool or cotton.
Dated this 21st day of September 1809
ABEL & IMRAY,
Agents for the Applicant.