Improvements in Buttons, and Means for Fastening the same.
Year: 1896

page_text: Date of Application; 11th Nov., 1896
Complete Specification Left, 1st Apr., 1897-Accepted, 19th June, 1897
Improvements in Buttons, and Means for Fastening the same.
I, ALFRED JULIUS BOULT, of 111 Hatton Garden, London, in the County of
Middlesex, Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature of this invention, com-
municated to me by Oliver William Ketchum, a Manufacturer, residing at the
corner of Fayette and Holiday Streets, Baltimore, Maryland, in the United States
of America, and Edward Alexander Griffith, a Merchant, doing business at
8 Hanover Street, Baltimore, aforesaid, to be as follows:-
.
This invention is an improvement on that style of button and the means of
fastening therefor shown in my Patent No. 4836 of 1896, and it consists mainly in
a button having a hollow oblong or oval shank with a cross bar at the bottom, and
peculiar fastening devices to be used therewith, which will be more fully described
hereafter.
Referring to the accompanying drawings-
Fig. 1 represents a perspective view of a button constructed according to my
improvement.
Fig. 2 shows a plan of the same attached to the fabric.
Fig. 3 is a cross section through the button and fabric.
Fig. 4 is a perspective view of a fastener to be used therewith.
Fig. 5 is a side elevation, partly in section, of a tool for clinching the fastening
on the button,
Fig. 6 is a vertical central section through the line, Fig. 5, showing the
button and fastener in position.
Fig. 7 is a similar section at right angles to that shown in Fig. 6.
Fig. 8 is a plan of a button holder.
The button, as will be seen, is formed with a hollow oblong shank as is clearly
shown in Fig. 1 with a cross bar at the bottom, which is preferably made cylindrical
in cross section, but it may be made semicircular with the convex side above or
below according to the style of fastener to be used, or a bar oblong in cross section
may be used if preferred.
The fastener may be of any desired kind but I prefer that shown in Fig. 4 which
is made of a wire staple flattened at the center thereof and secured between a disk
and cap as shown in Fig. 3.
The fastening or clinching device comprises (see Fig. 5) a base from which rises
two pairs of ears between which are pivoted a long and a short lever, each carrying
a toothed segment which segments gear into each other. The long lever extends
to the rear, forming an operating handle, while the other lever extends forward
and carries a punch or clincher whose lower end is formed as shown in Figs. 5 and 7.
A spring is provided arranged to hold the handle elevated.
In the front of the fastening tool, in line with the clincher, is an anvil whose
lower end is threaded in order to fasten the same by a nut, and whose top is
recessed to receive the button fastener. Pivoted to the anvil are swinging jaws
which are forced together by a spiral spring surrounding the anvil, which jaws
securely hold the fastener in the proper position.
Between the clincher and anvil is the button holder consisting of two plates.

page_text: (see Fig. 8), one of which is rigid and the other of spring material. The former
is pivoted on the pivot of the short lever, while the latter is carried by the rigid
plate.
To use this fastening device a button is set between the plates just referred to,
and a fastener in the recess of the anvil. The material to which the button is to
be fastened is then set between the button and fastener, and the handle depressed,
which will first force the button and fabric down upon the prongs of the fastener,
and then the clincher will turn the prongs down in the manner shown in Figs. 2
and 3.
It is obvious that buttons of this style may be sewed on and especially so when
the cross bar is made cylindrical in cross section or semi-cylindrical so as to be
round on the upper portion, as the round surface of the bar will prevent the cutting
of the thread. In setting this button on the garment, the long diameter of the
shank should be set in line with the button-hole with which it is to be used, in
which case all the friction of the button-hole comes upon the hollow shank and none
upon the thread, so that the button, if properly sewed on in the first place, will
never come off, as there is no friction on the thread.
In some cases I may make the semi-cylindrical cross bar with the round surface
downwards, especially when the buttons are intended to be used with the metallic
fastener.
Dated this 11th day of November 1896.
BOULT & WADE,
Agents for the Applicant.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Buttons, and Means for Fastening the same.
I, ALFRED JULIUS BOULT, of 111 Hatton Garden, London, in the County of
Middlesex, Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature of the improvements
in button and button fastener, communicated to me by Oliver William Ketchum,
a Manufacturer, residing at the corner of Fayette and Holiday Streets, Baltimore,
Maryland, in the United States of America, and Edward Alexander Griffith, a
Merchant, doing business at 8 Hanover Street, Baltimore, aforesaid, and in what
manner the same are to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained
in the following statement:-
This improvement relates to that class of buttons provided with a hollow shank
having a cross bar or bridge at the bottom, and the means for fastening the same
on the garment, and the invention consists in the peculiar construction, arrangement
and combinations of parts hereinafter more particularly described and then definitely
claimed.
In the accompanying drawings-
Figure 1 is a perspective view of one form of my button looking from beneath.
Fig. 2 is a similar view of another form of the same.
Fig. 3 is a plan showing the button illustrated in Fig. 1 attached to a garment
by a metallic fastener.
Fig. 4 is a central cross section through Fig. 3 parallel with the prongs of the
fastener.
Fig. 5 is a similar section of a button, such as is shown in Fig. 2, sewed on with
thread.
Fig. 6 is a similar section of a button with a slightly different form of shank.

page_text: Fig. 8 is a similar view of the prongs of the fastener.
Fig. 9 is a plan of a modified form of the button.
Fig. 10 is a side view of a button fastener constructed according to my improve-
ment, with the parts shown in their normal position in full lines and with the handle
depressed in dotted lines.
Fig. 11 is a plan of the same.
Fig. 12 is a front view thereof.
Fig. 13 is an enlarged side view of the anvil and clamp with the latter in its
normal position.
Fig. 14 is a similar view with clamps represented open.
Fig. 15 is a vertical central longitudinal section of a modification..
Fig. 16 is a perspective view of a die enlarged.
Fig. 17 is a similar view of another form of die.
Referring now to the details of the drawings by numerals, and particularly to
Figs. 1, 3, 4, 6 and 7, 1 represents the body of the button having an oblong shank 2
at the bottom of which is a cross bar or bridge 3 connecting the two sides of the
shank, leaving comparatively large sized holes 4 on each side of said bar. As
will be seen in Figs. 1 and 4, the cross bar is perfectly round, which is caused by
curving under the cross bar part of the metal punched from the holes 4 and so
forming the punch by which the bar is shaped that the upper part of the latter
shall be pressed round also.
The fastener consists of three parts, viz., a cap 5, a disk 6.having holes or
notches 7, and the staple or prongs 8 whose lower ends are connected by a cross
bar 9, preferably formed by bending wire into a staple and then flattening the
connecting part or cross bar as shown in Fig. 8.
To "assemble" the fastener, the prongs 8 are put through the holes in the
disk 6 and the two set in the cap 5 whose edges are then turned over the disk as
shown in Figs. 4 and 7, whereby the three parts are firmly secured together so as
to be in effect one solid piece.
To fasten the button to a garment, the prongs of the fastener are passed through
the fabric and into the holes between the bridge and shank and the ends of the
prongs are then turned down over the bridge as shown in Fig. 4, preferably by the
aid of the tool hereinafter described, by which means the button is securely fastened
to the garment.
It is evident that the button thus far described may be sewed on also if preferred,
but where the button is intended to be sewed on only it may be made as shown in
Figs. 2 and 5, in which the bar or bridge is only partially cylindrical in form, with
curved part uppermost.
In some cases I may make the bar as shown in Fig. 6, that is to say, with the
edges only rounded or inclined. In making these edges round by the process of
stamping, the metal is condensed and thus the bar is considerably strengthened
rather than weakened, as it would be if the metal were cut away to make the
edges of the bar round. A button made in the form shown in Fig. 6 may be either
sewed on or secured by a pronged fastener, as in the case of the button shown in
Figs. 1, 3 and 4.
The flattened or oblong shank of the button has the following advantages:
-
I. It forms a means for guiding the button through an attaching machine
so that the prongs of the fastener will be sure to enter the shank in the proper
position.
II. The inner sides of the oblong shank form guides for the prongs of the
fastener so that they will lie parallel in the shank when turned down, thus
forming a neat finish, whereby the necessity of a cap to cover up the prongs is
avoided.
III. With the oblong shank the bridge is much shorter and is thus stronger than
when it extends across a wider space.

page_text: IV. If the opening between the sides of the hollow shank is rather narrower
than the combined width of the two prongs, the sides of the shank will tend to
bind on the sides of the prongs and hold them fast when pressed down, whereby
smaller wire may be used for forming the prongs, which in turn will allow of a
narrower shank being used.
V. An oblong shank does not distort the button-hole so much as a round
shank, inasmuch as the former may be secured to the garment lengthwise of
the button-hole.
VI. An oblong shank allows of large openings being made for the thread, so
that a large quantity of thread may be used for sewing it on, enough to entirely
prevent the button ever coming off under the greatest possible strain likely to be
exerted on it..
VII. By setting the long diameter of the shank parallel with the length of the
button-hole, the entire wear due to the friction of the wall of the button-hole comes
upon the button and thus the wearing away of the thread due to the friction of
the button-hole is avoided.
The peculiar form of the bar has these advantages, viz. when made cylindrical.
it is adapted to be secured to articles of clothing either by means of fasteners or
sewing, as, when sewed on, the round upper surface prevents the cutting of the
thread, and, when the fastener is to be used, the round uuder side will tend to
guide the prongs in the right direction, should they acccidentally come in contact
with the under side of the bar. The same remarks apply to the button shown in
Fig. 6. Another advantage is that by making the cross bar curved or cylindrical
in cross section, it is much strengthened, so that very thin metal may be used.
:. While I prefer that the inner sides of the shank shall bear upon the prongs
after they are turned down, I do not limit myself to this feature as the fastener will
hold without it. And while I consider it advisable that the prongs of the fastener
lie parallel with each other and the central line of the oblong shank, I do not wish
to be understood as limiting myself in all cases to such an arrangement as will
make said parts exactly parallel with each other, as a good result may be had even
if they vary slightly from such parallel arrangement.
In using the word "inclined" in the claims hereafter made, I mean to include
either a curved or straight inclined surface, as it is evident that either may be used,
although I prefer a-curved or cylindrical surface.
In some cases I introduce into the button a cap (as shown in dotted lines in
Fig. 4 and in full lines in the plan view Fig. 9) having a semi-circular groove 10
in the top, to cover up the prongs of the fastener. In most cases this cap will
be sufficiently strong to turn the prongs of the fastener when forced down on said
prongs.
Referring now to Figs. 10 to 17, 11 represents the base provided with
standards 12, 13, rising. therefrom, between which are mounted the operated or
"die carrying "lever 14 and the operating or handle lever 15, on suitable fixed
shafts 16, 17, which are secured in place by cotters 18.
In the front end of the lever 14 is secured by a set screw 19 a die 20, the form
of which is more clearly shown in Fig. 16, from which it will be seen that it has
two concave cavities divided by a rib 21, whose purpose will be hereinafter
explained. Near the fulcrum of this lever is a projection or tooth 22, which
engages in a recess 23 in the longer arm 24 of the shorter part of the lever 15,
beneath which arm 24 is a shorter arm 25, which engages with the rear end of the
lever 14, as shown by dotted lines in Fig. 10.
At 26 is shown a slotted button carrier having ears 27, which pass between the
standards 12 and are held in position by the shaft 16 which passes through the
ears 27. A spring plate 28, having a slot 29, is secured to this carrier by a screw 30
and washer 31.
Rising from the front of the base is an anvil 32, to which is pivoted two
notched clamping jaws 33 by a pin 34 passing through both the clamps and

page_text: the base of the anvil. A spiral spring 35 surrounds the anvil, and as it bears
against the inclined bottom of the clamps, they tend to keep the same in the
closed position.
On the under side of the lever 14 is a pin 36 which acts upon the under side of
the button carrier, and causes the same to rise as said lever 14 makes the latter
half of its backward motion. A stop 37 is secured to one of the standards 12 to
prevent the carrier rising too far. A spring 38 which has its ends coiled
around the shaft 17 serves to raise the handle and keep the parts in their normal
position.
The operation is as follows: The parts being in the position shown in full lines
in Fig. 10, the clamps are opened and a fastener set on the anvil with the prongs
thereof arranged so that the walls of the notches in the edges of the clamps will
embrace said prongs. A button is then set between the carriers and the spring.
plate thereon, and the cloth or other fabric to which the button is to be fastened is
set over the prongs of the fastener. The handle of the lever 15 is then pressed
down, which rapidly carries the die and the button carrier down upon the prongs
of the fastener, so that said prongs are made to pass through the cloth and the
holes in the button, and as the button carrier presses on the clamps, they open and.
allow the cloth to pass down close to the head of the fastener. As the lever 14
and its die continue to descend, the prongs are clinched down upon the bridge o
the button, as shown in Fig. 4, thus securely fastening the button to the cloth or
garment. The button can now be withdrawn from the carrier and another button
and fastener inserted in the buttou carrier and clamp, and the operation repeated
as often as desired.
It will be observed that the clamps are set so as to hold the prongs on a line
diagonal to the length of the base of the machine, which is done to bring their
points on opposite sides of the rib on the die, so that each prong will enter its
appropriate cavity in the die and be bent down parallel with each other without
interfering. It will also be seen that the slot in the carrier is made oblong to fit
the hollow oblong shank of the button, and that its longest diameter is parallel
with the length of the machine or at an angle to the edges of the opening of the
clamp. It is important that the slot in the button carrier and the notches in the
clamp bear this relation to each other, for then the prongs of the fastener will
always enter the button in the right position to be turned down parallel, or
substantially so, with the sides of the oblong shank.
The style of button used on the machine as above described has no cap to cover
the prongs, but the same machine may be used for a button having a cap, as before
described, in which case a die having a plain concave cavity is used, such as is
shown in Fig. 17 if the cap is round, but if the cap has a semi-cylindrical recess
the die should be made to fit it.
In some cases I may make the machine as shown in Fig. 15, in which a spring 40
is used to give the die carrying lever a part of its motion.
When such a spring is
used, the projection 22 may be dispensed with as the spring will carry the rear arm
of said lever up in position to be acted on by the arm 15 of the lever 5, as shown
by the dotted lines in Fig. 6.
The peculiar arrangement and construction of the levers I believe to be
important, inasmuch as it allows of a very rapid motion of the lever 14 when it has
but little to do, and a slow and therefore powerful action when the prongs are being
clinched.
Although I have shown and prefer to use my button setting machine in fastening
buttons with an oblong shank, I do not intend to limit myself to such use, as I may
use it with buttons having round shanks.
It is evident that the machine can also be operated by foot power by placing it
on a table or bench and connecting the lever 15 with a foot-actuated lever or
treadle. As such mode of operation is well known, further description is
unnecessary.

page_text: Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I'declare that what I
claim is:
1. As an improved article of manufacture, a button having a hollow oblong shank
and a cross bar at the bottom thereof free from sharp edges, substantially as
described.
2. As an improved article of manufacture, a button having an oblong hollow
shank and a cross bar at the bottom thereof, provided with inclined upper edges to
avoid cutting the thread, substantially as described.
3. The combination with a two pronged fastener, of a button having an oblong
hollow shank and a bridge at its bottom and adapted to guide the prongs of the
fastener parallel with each other as they are turned down, substantially as
described.
4. As an improved article of manufacture, button having a substantially flat
face, a hollow shank round at the top and oblong below, and a bridge connecting
the bottom of the sides of the shank, substantially as described.
5. A button having a body, a shank provided with a bridge at the bottom and a
cap set therein having a semi-cylindrical recess, substantially as described.
6. The combination with a button having a hollow oblong shank 2 and bridge 3,
of a fastener comprising the cap 5, disk 6, and wire prongs 8 connected by a
flattened bar 9, substantially as described.
7. A button setting machine having a carrier adapted to carry oblong shanked
buttons, and a clamping device constructed and arranged to hold the fastener with
its prongs set in a line diagonal to the insides of the slot, substantially as described.
8. The combination in a button setting machine, of a reciprocating dic, a button
carrier, a spring holder thereon, an anvil, and spring clamps adapted to hold the
fastener, substantially as described.
9. The combination in a button setting machine, of a reciprocating die, a button
carrier, an anvil and a pair of spring clamps pivoted below the anvil, and a spring
surrounding the anvil to close the clamps, substantially as described.
10. The combination with a base and anvil, of a die carrying lever 14, and the
operating lever 15 provided with two projecting arms on its shorter part, one acting
on the top of the operated lever near its fulcrum, and the other acting on the end
nearest the fulcrum of said operating lever 15, substantially as described.
11. The combination with a base and anvil, of a die carrying lever 14, having a
projection 22, with an operating lever 15 provided with two arms on its shorter end,
one acting on the projection 22 and the other on the adjacent end of said lever 14,
substantially as described.
12. The combination with the base 11 and an operating lever mounted thereon,
of the die carrying lever 14, the button carrier 26 provided with slotted spring
plate 28, the anvil 32, the clamps 33 pivoted beneath the anvil, and the spring
surrounding the anvil, substantially as described.
13. The combination with the base 11, having standards 12, 13, of two levers
pivoted in said standards, one carrying an operating die, and the other having two
armis on its shorter part, one of said arms acting on the lever 14 near its fulcrum
and the other acting near the end of said lever, a spring to keep the long end of
the lever 15 raised, a button carrier having a spring plate thereon, a pin on the
lever 14, acting on the button carrier, an anvil 32, clamps 33 pivoted beneath said
anvil, and-a spring 35 acting on the clamps, all substantially as described and
shown.
נת
SA 1907
BOULT & WADE,
Agents for the Applicant.