Means for Marking Correct Slopes on Insertion and other Shirt Fronts and Marking Neck Stud Holes in Front of Neckband.
Year: 1889

page_text: Date of Application, 18th June, 1889
Complete Specification Left, 15th Mar., 1890-Accepted, 14th June, 1890
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Means for Marking Correct Slopes on Insertion and other Shirt Fronts
and Marking Neck Stud Holes in Front of Neckband.
I, JAMES MORRISON Shirt Manufacturer 48 Pembroke Road Walthamstow Essex
do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
A piece of zinc copper brass or other metal or millboard, cardboard stout paper
or other suitable material, about five inches square, upon which is drawn or marked a
line of an inch from edge, which forms the centre line from this line to right hand
top of plate on top side and to the left hand top on under side are drawn a series of
circular lines, showing the quarter circles of different sizes according to size of neck-
band to be used. From the or centre line the circle is not continued to edge, but
short straight lines are drawn to edge. Reason for not continuing circle is to allow
edge of front to stretch to where circle would come if continued. A line is also
drawn of an inch from edge for regulating the distance of button or stud holes to
an inch from edge of front. Lines are also drawn from top of circles marked 13,
15, & 17, slanting to right side of plate on top and to left on under side, to shew
slope of shoulders from neck to the armhole of shirt,
In addition to front sloper there is a band shape and holes for marking the position
of studholes in neckband. The lines in metal plates are perforated at distances
of about of an inch to allow of a piercer or pencil being used to mark circle on
material to be shaped.
In using the sloper the top half of front is marked with lines running to top on
right and the under half by reversing the plate and with lines running to left edge of
plate being placed to edge of front. The plates can also be made in one piece (to
slope both sides from face of plate) by omitting piece from edge to the fin. centre line
and making the other part in duplicate.
Dated this 17th day of June 1889
JAMES MORRISON.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Means for Marking Correct Slopes on Insertion and other Shirt Fronts
and Marking Neck Stud Holes in Front of Neckband.
JAMES MORRISON 48 Pembroke Road Walthamstow Essex Shirt Manufacturer do
hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:-
A number of circular lines are drawn from the top of a straight perpindicular line
to side from centre shewing the size required for each size of neck to be fitted also a
series of sloping lines from top of slopes to outside edge of front shewing slope of
shoulders from side of neck to shoulder joint also (for open in front shirt) a series of
small straight lines drawn from centre line to edge of front instead of continuing
circle, so as to counterbalance stritching of material also shape of neckband shewing
position of studbole in same when the holes in fronts are of an inch from edge of
front to be increased or diminished in same way as front holes.
Figures one and two represent circumflexer made from cardboard. paper or other
suitable material about five inches square with lines drawn as described, i.e. Fig. 1 a
perpindicular line A A § in. from edge, B B to CC a set of circular lines drawn from
centre line A A to top of front from left to right, also lines drawn straight from top
of circular lines to side of front B B to E E shewing natural slope of shoulders, angle
as shewn on drawing, also straight lines from centre line to edge of front CC to DD,
IP 631

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these can be lengthened or shortened according to wrap required. Fig. 2 is the
reverse of Fig. 1 either as a seperate piece or drawn on the reverse side of material
used for Fig. 1 the lines running from centre to left instead of to right. The neck-
band shape F is intended to be used seperately to mark position of studhole in
neckband when holes in front are in. from edge.
Fig. 3 is intended for button behind shirt fronts and there being no wrap or over-
laping the short lines C C to D D as in Figs. 1 and 2 are not required. Fig. 3 is a
combination of Figs. 1 and 2 the circular lines B B to B B being continued without
. break.
Figures 1, 2 and 3 are actual size.
When metal is used for making the circumflexer, smali. holes are drill'd through on
the lines to allow the point of a pencil or piercer to be used to mark material through
plate the holes being about in. apart.
To use the circumflexer, cut out circle to size of neck required and the line nearest"
top of circle to outside of front shewing angle of shoulder slope, place same at extreme
top of front and line A A straight in line where studholes in front are to be mark with
pencil and cut out material.
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The half sizes can. be cut between the lines, ie. 15 to be cut between 15 and
16 lines.
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To obtain a deep narrow slope drop the card from top say in. and place forward
over front edge say in. and to obtain a wide shallow slope, raise card above top in.
and draw in. from edge of front.
Having now particularly described and assertained the nature of my
in what manner it is to be performed, I declare that I claim
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invention and
That by means of my circumflexer any person may slope correctly any front to be
inserted in a shirt or to be made into a demi or loose front. That the lines drawn
from B B to E E will give the average slope of shoulder required and that the short
lines from CC to D D being straight will counterbalance the stretching of material.
That the line A A being used as the centre allows of any size wrup being used, as
lines C C to D D can be either shortened or lengthened as required. (The said wrap
being the distance stud holes are placed from edge of front.)
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Dated this Thirteenth day of March 1890.