IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF HOSIERY DRESSES OR COMBINATIONS
Year: 1884

page_text: I, THEODORE WALKER of Leicester in the County of Leicester, do hereby
declare the nature of said invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE
OF HOSIERY DRESSES OR COMBINATIONS to be as follows:
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The object of this invention is to simplify and cheapen the manufacture of that
class of garments known to the trade as "Hosiery dresses or "Combinations
and I proceed as follows: I take what is known as "circular or flat webbing
lay it flat and mark upon it the shape from a board or template. The portions
not required are then cut out and the edges seamed up by what is well known in
the trade as a cutting and seaming machine. The pieces cut out in shaping the
legs of the garment I use for giving additional breadth over the hips where that
is needed as in ladies' garments; the waste bits cut in shaping the body come in
for the breast gores. It will thus be readily understood that by making these
garments out of the circular or flat webbing in the manner described, the cost of
production is materially lessened and they can be sold to the public much under
the price at present demanded.
.
For men and boys I prefer to form the garment with a buttoned flap at the
back for convenience in use.
All these garments can be made in the materials usually employed for the
purpose such as wool, cotton or merino.
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7001

page_text: I THEODORE WALKER of Leicester in the County of Leicester do hereby
declare the nature of my Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE
OF HOSIERY DRESSES OR COMBINATIONS and in what manner the same is to be
performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement.
"
"
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The object of this Invention is to simplify and cheapen the manufacture of that
class of garments known to the trade as Hosiery dresses or "combinations"
and I proceed as follows I take what is known as circular or flat webbing (by
circular webbing I mean web made from circular machinery either ribbed or plain)
circular or flat webbing lay it flat and mark upon it the shape from a board or
template The portions not required are then cut out and the edges seamed up by
what is well known in the trade as a cutting and seaming machine the pieces cut
out in shaping the legs of the garment I use for giving additional breadth over
the hips where that is needed as in ladies garments the waste bits cut in shaping
the body came in for the breast gores. It will thus be readily understood that by
making these garments out of the circular or flat webbing in the manner described
the cost of production is nominally lessened and they can be sold to the public
much under the price at present demanded For men and children I prefer to
form the garment with a buttoned flap at the back for convenience in use.
The arms and legs may be made any length required and these garments may be
made or finished in the usual styles peculiar to the trade.
All these garments can be made in the materials usually employed for the
purpose such as wool cotton or merino or any other elastic material.
In the accompanying drawings
Figure 1 is a back view of a combination garment for women as roughed out
but not finished.
Figure 2 is the finished and
Figure 3 is a front view.
.
I take a piece of circular or flat webbing and lay it flat, or a piece of flat
webbing doublet, and mark upon it by means of a board or template the shape to
which it is to be cut. In figure 1A is the webbing the dot and dash lines showing
the original dimensions, the three pieces B and C C (all of which are double) being
cut out so that the garment now assumes the shape shewn in full lines. This is
done with the well known cutting and seaming machine so that the cutting of the
webbing and the sewing up of the cut edges is simultaneously effected as shewn
by the dotted lines round the edges of B and C C A slit or cut is made at DD
for the breast gores C¹ C² which are made out of a portion of the waste pieces C C
which are shaped and then sewn on.
In the higher priced garments what are called "fashioned" gores may be used
if preferred, but that of course increases the price and causes the pieces CC to
be wasted.
The double piece B and B one edge of each of which is sewn along the
line Y Z and the other edge basted one upon the outside of the garment and the
other upon the inside as shewn by the full dotted lines.
The object of fastening them down all round is to keep them in place and the
garment in shape whilst being finished subsequently their curved edges being
released from the basting stitches are bound or trimmed and finished off in the
usual manner as also is the neck of the garment. These back gores give more
room over the hips where it is generally required.
It will thus be seen that the cutting and sewing up the edges are effected

page_text: simultaneously thus saving a great deal of time and the waste pieces cut out are
used again in the gores.
I do not bind myself not to use any back gores except those made from the
waste pieces B as it is manifest that other pieces of webbing can be employed for
this purpose but the former plan is the most economical.
Similarly it is evident that the cutting and sewing machine may be dispensed
with and the garments cut out with scissors and sewn up by hand or machine
afterwards but this would take more time and therefore be more expensive.
Figure 4 is a back view of a mens combination garment, shewing the opening
across the back, and figure 5 is a like view with the flap turned down and Figure 6
a front view of a womans garment. E is the body or vest and G the lower
portion or pants. H is the flap buttoned or otherwise secured (if desired) to the
upper part E as shewn in figure having the side slits I and J so that it can be
turned down when required as shown in Figure 5.
When more room is required in front or behind the gore K is inserted as shown
in figures 4 and 6.
It is manifest that the flap H can be formed in what are known as wrought
garments, or garments made upon machines, or in some manner other than by the
special process described in this specification.
Having now described my invention I claim
First The process for the manufacture of combination garments from circular
or flat webbing which consists essentially in cutting out the pieces B and C C and
seaming up the cut edges of the webbing and attaching the back gores B¹ B³ and
breast gores C¹ and C substantially as described and shown.
Second-The manufacture of combination garments from circular or flat
webbing by means of the cutting and seaming machine substantially as set forth.
Third In a combination garment the back gores B¹ B2 and breast gores C¹ C²
formed of the waste pieces B and C C substantially as set forth.
Fourth In a combination garment the fall down flap H constructed and
operating substantially as set forth and shown.
Fifth-The combination with the flap H of the gore K. substantially as and for
the purpose set forth.
Dated this 14th day of February 1884.
THEODORE WALKER.