IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FABRICS IN TWIST LACE MACHINES
Year: 1872

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Joseph Booth, of 29, Gamble Street, Nottingham,
for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FABRICS
IN TWIST LACE MACHINES."
Sealed the 12th March 1872, and dated the 20th January 1872.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Joseph Booth at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
20th January 1872.
I, JOSEPH BOOTH, of 29, Gamble Street, Nottingham, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE
MANUFACTURE OF FABRICS IN TWIST LACE MACHINES," to be as follows :-
The object of this Invention is to produce more advantageously than
heretofore ornamental laces and fabrics, in which ornament is obtained
by means of thick pillars which are formed in connection with other
ordinary fabric either ornamental or plain.
According to this Invention, each such thick ornamental pillar is

page_text: covering threads. The core thread is a thick warp thread (or threads)
which may be of any
desired substance, and the covering threads are ‘a
number of finer warp threads and a bobbin thread. The covering
threads are interwoven and they surround the core thread, forming a
tube in which the core thread lies. In producing such a thick orna- 5
mental pillar the threads are worked by the jacquard in such manner
that the core thread stands on one side of the covering bobbin when it
is passing from the front comb of the machine into the back comb, and
on the other side when it is passing in the contrary direction, or from
the back comb into the front. In this way the bobbin thread becomes ]
lapped in a spiral direction around the core thread. At the same time
the bobbin thread weaves with the covering warp threads. Theso
threads are divided into two series, and they are uneven in number, so
that. there is one more thread in one series than in the other. With one
series of the covering warp threads the bobbin thread weaves each time 1
as it passes from front to back, and it weaves with the other series each
time when passing from back to front. At each motion of the machine
the alternate threads of the series with which the bobbin thread is
weaving on that motion are ranged by the jacquard alternately to the
right and left of the bobbin, so that the bobbin thread may be laid
between them as a weft, whilst all the threads of the other series of
covering threads are placed together on the same side of the bobbin as
the core thread. Two portions of weaving are thus produced, one on
either side of the core thread, and they are combined into a tube by the
repeated passage of the bobbin thread from one to the other.
A similar effect may be produced if the bobbin thread be allowed to
weave twice in succession with one series of the covering warp threads,
and then twice in succession with the other series. In this case the
core thread passes from side to side of the bobbin only at every alternate
motion, in place of at every motion, and one thread of the covering warp
threads is common to the two series.
In some cases I employ two bobbin threads to weave with the covering
warp threads. In this case each of the two series into which these
threads are divided has its own bobbin threads, and the two portions of
fabric thus produced are united into a tube around the core thread by a
warp thread at each edge which weaves in both of the series. The pillar
is composed of a thick warp thread (or threads). These thick pillars can

page_text: be drawn into curved forms by attaching them to the other parts of the
fabric alternately on either side, and the core threads can be made to
cross each other and pass from one set of covering threads to another.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Joseph Booth in the Great Seal Patent Office on
the 19th July 1872.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JOSEPH
Booтя, of 29, Gamble Street, Nottingham, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Twentieth day of January, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-two, in the thirty-
fifth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give
and grant unto me, the said Joseph Booth, Her special license
that I, the said Joseph Booth, my executors, administrators, and
assigns, or such others as I, the said Joseph Booth, my executors,
administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others,
from time to time and at all times thereafter during the term therein
expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend,
within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel
Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE
MANUFACTURE OF FABRICS IN TWIST LACE MACHINES," upon the condition
(amongst others) that I, the said Joseph Booth, executors
or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their,
or one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and
ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the
same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great
Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately
after the date of the said Letters Patent.
my
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Joseph Booth, do hereby declare
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement thereof, that is to say:-
The object of this Invention is to produce more advantageously than
lieretofore ornamental laces and fabrics in which ornament is obtained

page_text: by means of thick pillars which are formed in connection with other
ordinary fabric, either ornamental or plain.
According to this Invention, each such thick ornamental pillar is
formed in the following manner :-It consists of a core thread and
covering threads. The core thread is a thick warp thread (or threads)
which may be of any desired substance, and the covering threads are a
number of fine warp threads and a bobbin thread. The covering threads
are interwoven, and they surround the core thread, forming a tube in
which the core thread lies. In producing such a thick ornamental
pillar the threads are worked by the jacquard in such manner that the
core thread stands on one side of the covering bobbin when it is passing
from the front comb of the machine into the back comb, and on the
other side when it is passing in the contrary direction or from the back
comb into the front. In this way the bobbin thread becomes lapped in.
a spiral direction around the core thread. At the same time the bobbin
thread weaves with the covering warp threads. These threads are
divided into two series, and they are uneven in number, so that there is
one more thread in one series than in the other. With one series of the
covering warp threads the bobbin thread weaves each time as it passes
from front to back, and it weaves with the other series each time when
passing from back to front. At each motion of the machine the
alternate threads of the series with which the bobbin thread is weaving
on that motion are ranged by the jacquard alternately to the right and
left of the bobbin, so that the bobbin thread may be laid between them
as a weft, whilst all the threads of the other series of covering threads
are placed together on the same side of the bobbin as the core thread.
Two portions of weaving are thus produced, one on either side of the core
thread, and they are combined into a tube by the repeated passage of the
bobbin thread from one to the other.
.
A similar effect may be produced if the bobbin thread be allowed to
weave twice in succession with one series of the covering warp threads
and then twice in succession with the other series. In this case the
core thread passes from side to side of the bobbin only at every alternate
motion in place of at every motion, and one thread of the covering warp
threads is common to the two series.
In some cases I employ two bobbin' threads to weave with the
covering warp threads. In this case cach of the two series into which

page_text: these threads are divided has its own bobbin threads, and the two
portions of fabric thus produced are united into a tube around the core
thread by a warp thread at each edge which weaves in both of the series.
The pillar is composed of a thick warp thread. These thick pillars can
be drawn into curved or angular forms by attaching them to the other
parts of the fabric alternately on either side, and the core threads can
be made to cross each other and pass from one set of covering threads to
another
In Diagram I. a is the core thread; b, the bobbin thread; and c, c,
are warp threads. The bobbin thread acts as the weft of the tubular
weaving which with the core thread forms the thick pillar; it is passed
continuously round and round the core thread and caused simultaneously
to interweave with the warp threads of the tubular weaving. Thus at
the first motion when the bobbin passes from front to back the core
thread is say on its right hand side, together with all the warp threads
belonging to the right hand side of the pillar and half of those belonging
to the left hand side of the pillar (say numbers 1 and 5, counting the
warp bars in the usual way from back to front of the machine). At the
second motion, when the bobbin returns from back to front, the corc
thread is on its left hand side together with all the warp threads belong-
ing to the left hand side of the pillar, and half of those belonging to the
right hand side (say numbers 4 and 8). At the third motion from front
to back the core thread and warp threads belonging to the right hand
side of the pillar are again on its right side, and so are the warp threads
3 and 7, whilst the warp threads 1 and 5 are to its left. The fourth
motion from back to front is the same as the second motion, except that
the warp threads 4 and 8 now go to the right hand of the bobbin, and
the other warp threads belonging to the right side of the pillar go to the
left of the bobbin. In this way the work continues. I prefer that the
core thread should be carried by a middle warp bar. When in the
formation of a pattern one thick pillar is required to cross another,
interlocking with it as it crosses, the warp threads including the core
threads are caused to cross over; thus if a pillar A is required to cross
and combine with a pillar B on its right, immediately after the bobbin
of pillar A has passed between and interwoven with the warp threads

page_text: •
belonging to the right hand side of the pillar, the warp threads to the
right of the bobbin instead of returning go to pillar B and take the
places of the corresponding threads in this pillar. Then after the bobbin
has passed between and interwoven with the warp threads on the left
hand side of the pillar, the threads on the right hand side of the
bobbin go to the pillar B, next the core thread itself goes, and lastly tho
remainder of the warp threads, so that the crossing of the pillars is com-
pleted in four motions; the threads in the pillar B work in a similar
manner, passing successively into the pillar A. to the left. The fabric in
the midst of which these thick pillars are produced may be a plain
weaving such as is called muslin, and in this case I cause the core
thread of the pillar to catch the wefting bobbin of the muslin and draw
it through between its warp threads. Where these thick pillars arc
produced in the midst of net or other lace fabric, either the core thread
or the other warp threads of the thick pillar may be caused to interlock
with the bobbin threads of the net or lace fabric, or the bobbin thread of
the thick pillar may be caught by warp threads belonging to the net.
The mode above described in detail is that in which I prefer to
produce the thick pillar, consisting of a tubular weaving and core
thread; they may however be otherwise produced.
The Diagram II. shews a thick pillar in which the bobbin thread
passes twice on the right hand side of the core thread, and then twice on
its left hand side, and the Diagram III. shews a thick pillar in which
two bobbin threads are used. It is not necessary that I should describe
the production of these pillars step by step. The Diagrams taken in
connection with the description already given will enable the lace manu-
facturer to produce such pillars in combination with muslin and other
lace fabrics.
Two bobbin threads may weave in pillars similar to those shown in

page_text: the production of ornamented lace fabrics made in twist lace machines
with thick pillars consisting of tubular weavings and core threads
produced in combination with such lace fabrics, substantially as
described.
5 In witness whereof, I, the said Joseph Booth, have here unt oset
my hand and seal, this Fifteenth day of July, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-two.