CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINERY
Year: 1854

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Alfred Vincent Newton; of the Office for Patents,
66, Chancery Lane, in the County of Middlesex, Mechanical Draughts-
Sealed the 20th June 1854, and dated the 1st April 1854.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Alfred Vincent Newton
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
1st April 1854.
I, ALFRED VINCENT NEWTON, of the Office for Patents, 66, Chancery Lane,
in the County of Middlesex, Mechanical Draughtsman, do hereby declare the
nature of the said Invention for "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINERY"
to be as follows:-
These improvements relate, firstly, to the use of magnetism or magnetic
attraction, for the purpose of keeping the shuttle in contact with the face of
the shuttle race, without the use of springs or any other device. The driving
of the shuttle is effected by the traverse of a plate which embraces the ends
of the shuttle.
Secondly, to the use of a curved hinged cap, for confining the cop in the
shuttle, which cop is inserted without a spindle or spooler, and the thread is
thereby enabled to be drawn from the inside of the cop, by which means an
uniform draught on the cop thread as it is drawn or paid out from the shuttle
may be obtained.

page_text: Thirdly, to forming in the face of the shuttle of sewing machines a slot,
through which a pin or stud in the shuttle race may project, for the purpose
of drawing the thread from the shuttle bobbin, so that there may be an
uniform tension upon the shuttle thread when drawing up the stitch.
Fourthly, to regulating the tension of the needle thread, as it passes from
the spool to the needle, by means of adjustable spiral grooves in a stud on the
needle bar, or their equivalent, round which the thread is wound, whereby
there will be only sufficient friction upon the thread to effect the tightening of
the stitch.
Fifthly, to the use of an arrangement of double acting pawles and ratchet
wheel, for feeding forward the cloth when the needle is approaching the cloth.
This arrangement of pawles is operated by a cam and levers, and is capable
of traversing the cloth in opposite directions according to the desire of the
attendant; but in any case the feed remains relatively the same with regard to
the motion of the needle, that is, the feed will take place whilst the needle is
going down or towards the cloth, and not when it is leaving the cloth to draw
up the stitch.
Lastly, this Invention relates to the construction and use of a nipper spring,
jointed to the guide of the needle bar, which nipper spring seizes the needle
thread when it is slack, and carries it sideways or horizontally away from
the needle, whereby the thread is protected from being broken or cut by the
needle.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Afred Vincent Newton in the Great Seal Patent Office
on the 30th September 1854.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, ALFRED
VINCENT NEWTON, of the Office for Patents, 66, Chancery Lane, in the County
of Middlesex, Mechanical Draughtsman, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the First day of April, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and fifty-four, in the seventeenth year of Her reign,
did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the
said Alfred Vincent Newton, Her special license that I, the said Alfred
Vincent Newton, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others
I, the said Alfred Vincent Newton, my executors, administrators, and
E

page_text: assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time
and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and
lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom
of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an
Invention for "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINERY," being a com-
munication from abroad, upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the
said Alfred Vincent Newton, by an instrument in writing under my hand and
scal, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Inven-
tion, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same
to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next
and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Alfred Vincent Newton, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to
be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the follow-
ing statement, reference being had to the Drawings hereunto annexed, and
to the letters and figures marked thereon (that is to say) :-
These improvements relate, firstly, to the use of magnetism or magnetic
attraction, for the purpose of keeping the shuttle in contact with the face of
the shuttle race, without the use of springs or other device.
Secondly, to the use of a curved hinged cap, for confining the cop of the
shuttle, which cop is inserted without a spindle or spool. By this arrangement,
the thread may be drawn from the inside of the cop, and thus an uniform
draught on the cop thread as it is drawn or paid out from the shuttle may be
obtained.
Thirdly, to forming in the face of the shuttle of sewing machines a slot,
through which a pin or stud in the shuttle race may project, for the purpose
of drawing the thread from the shuttle bobbin, so that there may be an
uniform tension upon the shuttle thread when drawing up the stitch.
Fourthly, to regulating the tension of the needle thread as it passes from
the spool to the needle, by means of adjustable spiral grooves in a stud on the
needle bar, or their equivalent, round which the thread is wound, whereby
there will be only sufficient friction upon the thread to effect the tightening
of the stitch.
Fifthly, to the use of an arrangement of double acting pawles and ratchet
wheel, for feeding forward the cloth when the needle is approaching the
cloth.
Lastly, this Invention relates to the construction and use of a nipper
spring jointed to the guide of the needle bar, which nipper spring seizes the
needle thread when it is slack, and carries it sideways or horizontally away

page_text: from the needle, whereby the thread is protected from being broken or cut by
the needle.
The Figures in Sheet I. of the accompanying Drawings illustrate the first
and second part of this Invention. Fig. 1 represents in perspective view an
entire sewing machine, and Fig. 2 represents the shuttle and shuttle driver
detached from the machine. Motion is communicated to the machine by
means of the crank A on the driving shaft B, to which is keyed a spur
wheel C. This spur wheel gears into a wheel D on the shaft E, which in
turn works into another wheel F, in gear with a cog wheel G. To the lower
part of the machine near the wheel G is hung au arm H, and in a segment
slot a formed therein, a pin 6 on the wheel G works, and thereby vibrates
the arm H. To the top of the arm II is attached one end of a connecting
rod c, the other end being attached to a projection d, on the under side of
the shuttle driver I, (Fig. 2,) which is a plain crescent-shaped piece of
brass or other metal, the two points of which span the shuttle J, and drive
it to and fro in the race K, (Fig. 1,) by contact merely, it having no positive
mechanical connection with the shuttle, by which arrangement the removal of
the shuttle to receive a fresh cop and its replacement are greatly facilitated.
The external form of the shuttle is substantially the same as those in common
use; but instead of providing it with a spindle or a fixture for a spool, as is
the universal custom, a curved cap e is hinged thereto. This cap is represented
in Fig. 2 as being raised up to receive the cop f.
spindle and spring 2 are placed, around or under which the cop thread
may be laid, to prevent it from being too freely drawn out.
On the said cap a
The cop is first wound (in a separate machine) upon a spindle or spool, and
for the more perfect security of keeping the cops in shape, they may be
wrapped up in thin paper and then slipped off, the inside end of the thread
being preserved, and from which inside end the thread is supplied. This
method of working from the inside of the cop, and dispensing with the use of
the spindle, ensures an uniform strain or tension upon the thread, which is
very essential in speedy sewing, and which cannot perhaps be procured
where the bobbin is controlled, as the tension is constantly varying as the
thread is paying out from the point or reel of the bobbin; besides, it
economizes space in the middle of the bobbin, which is necessarily limited in
size, and dispenses with many of the delicate pieces of the apparatus which
are most liable to derangement.
The face L of the race is made of a plain steel or iron plate straight in this
machine, (but it may be curved when the shuttle runs in a curved line for
any other purpose), and charged with magnetism by a common magnet or

page_text: otherwise, so that when the shuttle J is dropped into the race (it being made
also of iron or steel) it will be immediately drawn into close contact with the
said face plate L, or its equivalent, by the magnetic attraction of the metals,
and thus work close up to it whilst being driven back and forth by the shuttle
driver, whereby the use of springs, arms, or other mechanical device for hold-
ing the shuttle up to its place will be avoided, and the machine simplified, by
dispensing with its more minute pieces, which constantly endanger its perfect
success. It is obvious that other parts of the apparatus may be charged
with magnetism (as, for instance, the shuttle driver,) and produce the
same results; but the principle of this part of the Invention embraces the
keeping of the shuttle in its proper working position, by means of magnetic
attraction applied in any form or manner that will control the shuttle or its
action.
On the extreme end of the shaft E a fly wheel M is placed to regulate the
motion of the machine, and on the same shaft (within the fly wheel) a cam
wheel N is keyed. This wheel N is a simple disc, with a flange turned on it,
in which the cam is cut, and against it a friction roller carried by the arm o
of the bell crank lever is held by means of the helical spring 9. The other
arm P of this lever (which is hung upon any suitable bearing upon which it
may freely vibrate) is connected by means of a link h to the needle bar i,
which thereby receives its traverse motion from the cam wheel N. On the
top of the needle bar i is placed a cross head k, moving on guide rods 1, 7, to
keep it steady, and the lower end of the needle bar is slotted to receive the
punching and sewing needles 3, 4, one or both, as the case may be, the punch-
ing needle 3 being only used when sewing leather. The needles are held in
place by means of a nut 5, run on to a thread or male screw cut on the end
of the needle bar. The sewing needlo 4 is of the usual form of machine
needles, viz, straight, with the cyc in or near the point. The stitch formed is
of the kind well known in machines for a similar purpose, and termed the
"lock stitch." The method of forming the loop in the needle thread through
which the shuttle passes and carries its thread is well known, and having been
frequently and fully described, need not here be specially set forth; m is the
cloth holder, the lower end of which is slotted for the needles to pass through,
and which holds the cloth down upon the table and feeding wheel, when the
needles are being withdrawn from it. At its upper end it is secured to a cross
head, which can be moved on the guide rods o, o, around which the springs
P. P, are coiled, so as to raise up the cloth holder when it becomes necessary, to
remove or replace the cloth upon the table or feeding wheel. To move up the
cloth holder, the spring 6, which is attached to its cross head n, should be

page_text: pressed out of its notch when it may be raised up, and by springing into
another notch be held up until the cloth is removed, replaced, or the shuttle
refilled, as the case may be. When it is to be let down a similar operation of
the spring is resorted to, and the helical springs p, p, force it down into place,
where it is again held by the spring 6 taking into its notch.
The feeding wheel Q (of which a small portion only is seen) is placed on
the shaft R, and the wheel projects just far enough through the table to catch
the cloth on its sharp points or teeth, and feed it along under the needle.
On the shaft R is placed a plain disc wheel S, which is embraced by the
branched ends 7, 7, of the lever q, also attached to the shaft R; and on the
branched or forked ends of the lever q are placed the springs 1, 1, so arranged
as to press against the disc wheel S on both of its sides or faces. The
extreme end of the lever 7 moves upon a rod s, around which is coiled a
spiral spring t, and on the end of this rod is a set screw u for adjusting the
lever, so as to regulate by it the quantity of feed to be given to the cloth,
and which adjustment of feed regulates the length of stitch to be taken. A
cam T on the shaft B, at cach revolution of the shaft, strikes the lever 7 and
raises it up. This movement of the lever causes the springs 1, r, to clutch
against the sides of the disc wheel, and give to it a partial revolution, and
when the lever is released from the cam it is thrown down by the expansion of
the spiral spring t, the springs r, r, in this case rising up and releasing the
disc wheel, and slipping on the faces of the wheel without clutching or turning
it backward. Thus, the feed is continuous in one direction, while the parts
that operate the feed wheel reciprocate back and forth. The turning of the
shaft R by this intermittent movement feeds up the cloth by means of the
feeding wheel Q at the proper time, and allows it to rest when the stitch is
being formed. U is a lever break pressing on the shaft R, and made adjustable
by means of the set screw 8, to prevent the shaft from turning backward
when the springs r, r, slip back, and so to make both the motion and rest of
the feed wheel on the shaft more reliable.
The needle thread, represented by a red line, is wound on and taken from a
rcel V, and in its passage to the needle 4 passes first through the cross heads
k, n, thence around the friction pulley or roller W, (two or more turns), to give
it the necessary tension, and then through the eye of the needle, which is
near its point. The object of the friction pulley W is, that it may take up
the slack of the thread while the needle is piercing the cloth, without running
the twist out of the thread, as is the case when a thread holder or pad is used,
as heretofore. It is obvious, that the slack being taken up by the mere turn
of the roller, the thread moving with it will accomplish this desirable result.

page_text: A small friction spring 9 bears against the pulley or roller W, to prevent it
from moving too freely and this spring may, if found necessary, bear a rest
upon the thread which is wound round it; but, as a general rule, unless in
very heavy sewing, two or more turns of the thread around the pulley will be
found suflicient. A friction brake vis also applied to the flange of the reel
carrying the needle thread, which may be increased or diminished by the set
scrow w, to regulate to an extent the paying off the thread from the reel of
spool, and applying the pressure of the flange, instead of at the centre or ends,
makes it susceptible of the very nicest adjustment.
The Figures in Sheets II. and III. of the Drawings show an arrangement
of mechanical parts for effecting the following improvements in sewing
machinery, viz:-
First, drawing a sufficient quantity of thread from the shuttle bobbin to
form the stitch in advance of the forming or drawing up of the stitch, so that
in paying off the thread from the shuttle the tension or strain shall be always
uniform and not variable, as is the case where the act of drawing up the stitch
must draw the thread from the spindle, spool, or cop, besides the drawing of it
from the shuttle.
Second, drawing the needle thread from the spool before the needle enters
the cloth to form the loop, so that when the stitch is being tightened up there
shall only be that degree of tension upon the said needle thread as is caused
by its passing around adjustable grooves, or their equivalents, arranged on the
needle bar or elsewhere, and not requiring the needle to draw the thread from
the spool when about to form the stitch.
Third, a double-acting feed motion, which feeds the cloth either way to the
needle, when the feed motion always retains the same relative motion with
regard to the needle, or so that the feed shall take place whilst the needle is
advancing towards the cloth, and not when it is leaving the cloth to draw up
the stitch, and this, whether the cloth is fed to the right or to the left.
Fig. 1 denotes a view from the front of the machine. Fig. 2 denotes a view
of the feeding apparatus. Fig. 3 represents a cross section through the race.
Fig. 4 represents a top
perspective view of the
device for adjusting the
driven by hand or any other power, the first mover being applied to the crank
A. This crank A is placed on the end of a shaft. B, which carries at its
extreme rear end a cam wheel for operating the needle bar C, a portion of
which is seen in Fig. 6, the cam being so made as to give a reciprocating
motion to the needle bar. An arm d is attached by one of its ends to the
view of the race and shuttle.
shuttle from its under side.
strain on the needle thread.
Fig. 5 represents a
Fig. 6 represents the
The machine may be

page_text: crank A, and the other end is connected at a to a lever E, pivotted or hinged
to the frame at b. To the top of the lever E is hinged the bar F at the
point c, the other end of said bar being connected to a plate G, extending up
into the race H, as shewn at Fig. 3, which said plate G drives the shuttle I
to and fro by the spring arms d, d, which carry small projections e, e, intended
to catch into corresponding holes in the shuttle. In the centre of the race ex-
tending through a portion of its length is a plate J, having a small cam projection
fon its end, directly opposite the needle or the point where the needle enters
the cloth to form the loop for the shuttle thread, and this cam f at this point
releases the spring arms, first one and then the other, so as to allow the shuttle
to pass through the loop formed in the needle thread, the said loop being formed
by slightly raising the needle after it has pierced the cloth.
The needle rod or holder K is connected with and passes up a short distance
through a cross head L, which moves up and down on guide rods g, g, and
this holder also for further security passes through an additional guide M near
its lower end; the portion of the needle holder which extends above the
cross head is provided with a hole for one end of the helical spring N, the
other end being hooked over a standard O. The end of the needle bar C is
forked, so that the needle holder may pass between the jaws of the needle bar,
and the point of the needle bar has some play between, but is prevented from
being detached from the needle holder by the end of the spring N above it
and the cross head below it.
The needle is driven down into the cloth by the cam wheel, which motion
elongates the spring N; and the recoil of the spring, when the cam ceases to
act, draws up the needle holder and needle for the next operation.
A rod P attached to the cross head Q carries a foot h for pressing the cloth
against a plate i on the table, whilst the needle is being drawn out of the
cloth. This cross head may also slide upon guide rods, around which are
coiled helical springs j, j, so that the foot h may adapt itself to the varied
thicknesses of material to be sewn. There is also a spring R behind the cross
head Q, which, when the cross head is raised up, springs under it and holds it
up when the needle is to be threaded, or for removing the cloth or replacing it.
So much of the machine as is heretofore described is not what constitutes the
novel matter in this machine, and no claim is set up for this much, as it may
be changed at pleasure.
I will now more specifically describe the parts which are believed to be new
and very necessary to the perfect working of a sewing machine. The shuttle
I is a closed one, having for its face a hinged plate, as shewn in Fig. 5. This plate
at the rear of the shuttle has a slot k in it, and the thread inside of the shuttle

page_text: (represented in red) passes from near the point of the shuttle back underneath
the hinged face of the shuttle (calling that part of the shuttle the face which
is in close contact with the race) to near the rear of the shuttle, where it passes
through an eye 1, thence across the slot k, thence through another eye 2, and
after a sufficient number of turns around the friction pin 3, comes out of the
shuttle at 4. The pin 3, instead of being a fixed bar, may be hinged at one
end and raised or swung out of the shuttle, for the more easy threading of the
shuttle.
In the face of the race (Fig. 4) is a stud I, so arranged, that the slot k in the
shuttle, as it is driven that way, will pass over the stud and cause the thread
which crosses the slot to strike against the projection, whereby the thread will
be drawn from the bobbin. By this device the thread is slack between the
friction pin 3 and the bobbin, and in drawing up the stitch the only strain upon
the shuttle thread is the coils or turns around the friction pin 3, which gives
great uniformity to the stitch. If in drawing up the stitch the shuttle should
have also to draw the thread from the bobbin, the sewing could not be regular,
from the fact that the thread is harder to draw from one end of the bobbin
than from the other, and this inequality must cause the stitches to be tightened
up with greater or less strain on the thread, which causes a corresponding
inequality in the sewing.
The needle thread (represented in blue lines) passes from the spool, which
may be located in any convenient position on the frame; first, around the spiral
grooves m on the stud S, Fig. 6, a sufficient number of turns to make the
friction between them sufficient to draw up the stitch, and at the same time
allow the thread to be fed up to the needle, then through the hole 6, and out
of the end of the stud at 7; thence it passes through an eye n in the upper
cross head L, Fig. 1; thence through a hole o in the lower cross head Q, and
underneath the spring 5, and through a hole 8, and through the eye of the
needle 9. It will be found, perhaps, better to reverse the method herein
shown and described, of passing the thread from the spool to the needle, viz',
by first passing it in at 7 and at 6, thence around the grooves m, in the last one
of which the thread is held by the spring 8, and thence to the needle, as before
described.
The spool containing the needle thread need not be retained or held on
its spindle, but may be free to turn with the least tension upon its thread.
And in order that this degree of tension upon the thread may be regulated
so as to be the same relatively with that of the shuttle thread, the stud S, in.
which the spiral grooves m are cut, is held by a set screw T passing through
the needle bar, and by this arrangement a fraction of a turn of the stud may

page_text: be made, after which it will be held by the screw, which admits of the most
perfect adjustment of the thread; for it is obvious, that if the thread passes
around a roller wheel or friction pin, a whole turn and not a fractional one
must be made, and this prevents the perfect uniformity of tension between the
two threads, which perfect sewing, especially in fine work, requires. The
needle thread pays off' as the needle goes towards the cloth, and before the
stitch is made, and this being done it is only necessary to draw up the slack
of the thread against its adjustable friction stud to tighten up the stitch. It
may, in brief, be added, that the needle and shuttle with their threads do the
sewing, the threads in suitable quantities for formning the stitch being supplied
to them by other means, and not requiring them to supply themselves; for, as
before stated, the degree of tension to draw the threads from their bobbins
constantly varying, must, when the needle and shuttle is required to perform
this function, as well as that of sewing, also cause irregularities in the stitch.
The shaft B, on which the crank and cam wheel are arranged for giving
motion to the machine, has near its near end a projection p, (Fig. 2), which at
each revolution of the shaft and at the proper time (viz, as the needle is
coming toward the cloth) strikes against the lower end of the cam lever U,
which is pivoted at q, and throws it out, causing its dog or pawl V to move
the ratchet wheel W to feed the cloth in one direction. The ratchet wheel W
is arranged on a shaft X, which extends to or near the front of the machine,
and supports on its front end the spur wheel Y, (Fig. 1,) which takes into the
cloth, and feeds it along under the cloth holder h. On the opposite side of the
shaft X, from the cam lever U, is another lever Z, pivoted at r, and connected
to the lever U by the strap s. It will be perceived, by reference to the
Drawing, Fig. 2, that by connecting the two levers by the strap below the
fulcrum of one lever, and above that of the other, that both levers have the
same feeding motions at the same time. The lever Z also carries a pawl t
which when not feeding the cloth rests upon the pawle V, and holds it in con-
nection with the ratchet wheel W, and when the pawl t is feeding the cloth,
the pawle V performs a similar duty upon it. Each of the pawls V, t, are pro-
vided with a coiled spring u, which aids in holding them in their places; and
when it becomes necessary to change the direction of the feeding of the cloth,
it is only necessary for the operator to press down the extreme end of the
pawl (at the time of feeding) until the other pawl slips under it, and then s
by letting go, the pawl just thrown out is drawn by its spring w down on the
top of the feeding pawl, and holds it in gear with the ratchet weel W.
The importance of this reversible feed is obvious. It prevents the turning
of the cloth end for end, when a new seam is to be commenced, or when a

page_text: seam parallel to the one sewn is to be made; it enables the operator the better
to control the material fed in, especially in sewing curved seams; but the simple
idea of a reversible feed is not what I claim, as those heretofore used are
imperfect, for the reason, that when the feed was reversed, it also reversed the
time of feeding the cloth relatively with the needle.
To illustrate more fully the importance of this arrangement, it may be
stated that the proper time to feed forward the cloth is when the needle is
going down, and such will be the action of this machine.
Now, if the ordinary double-acting pawl were used when the feed is
reversed by the change of the action, the cloth would feed when the needle is
going up, and as the stitch is being tightened; and in the first place, the stitch
would be removed from the place where it was made; and secondly, the act of
moving would draw the threads and throw additional stress upon them, which
to make perfect work should be especially avoided.
As the machine is constructed and represented, the cloth is fed forward
when the needle is approaching the cloth, whichever pawl may for the time
being be in action with the ratchet. And a controlling clement in the machine
is, that the duty of forming the stitch shall be that of the needle and shuttle,
whilst the paying out of their threads, and the feeding up of the cloth,
although timed to the motion of the needle and shuttle, is done by separate
means.
The throw of the levers U, Z, by the cam p, causes the feed of the cloth,
and the spring v brings them back in place to be struck again by the next
revolution of the shaft B, and a set screw w regulates the distance that the
levers shall be drawn back for the next feeding operation. That end of the
shaft X which carries the spur wheel Y should be hung in an adjustable
bearing, so that the said wheel may be raised or lowered as it wears away, or
as a more or less rank hold upon the material being fed in should require.
The last part of this Invention is shewn in Sheet IV. of the accompanying
Drawings, in front of and near the lower end of the needle holder, and moving
on a pivot attached to one side of such needle holder. A nipper spring 1* is
placed, the object of which is to withdraw the thread from underneath the
needle as it descends and enters the cloth, so that it shall not be caught or
broken by the needle in its motions. The jaws of the nippers easily allow the
passage of the thread between them, but are sufliciently near to retain the
thread and carry it away from the needle. The general form of the spring
(though any equivalent form may be adopted) is shewn in Fig. 1, which is a
perspective view of the machine; and the construction of the nipper is also
shewn in the detached views, Figures 2 and 3. As the needle is raised, the

page_text: projecting point 1 b strikes against the upper end of the nipper spring, and
throws the lower end directly underneath the needle and against the thread,
which by this motion is made to pass into the jaws of the nipper, where it is
retained. As the needle descends, the nipper spring is thrown back into its
natural position by the spring 1 c, and the end holding the thread carried
nearly horizontally away from the needle, the thread being still held between
the jaws of the nipper until after the needle has pierced the cloth, when it is
pulled out by the still downward motion of the needle. By this arrangement
the thread is drawn sideways from under the needle, and thus all danger of
injury to or of the breaking of the thread from being cut by or being entangled
with the needle is avoided. In some sewing machines the thread is caught as
the needle moves upward, and is drawn up vertically away from under the
needle; but such arrangement moves the thread backwards and forwards
through the eye of the needle, and thus wears and weakens it; but no such
result follows from the mode above described, as the thread is caught when it
is slack, and not drawn through or moved in the eye in the operation.
Having now set forth the nature of the Invention of "Certain Improve-
ments in Sewing Machinery," as communicated to me by my foreign corre-
spondent, and explained the manner of carrying the same into effect, I wish
it to be understood that under the above in part recited Letters Patent I
claim,―
First, the magnetic shuttle and race, one or both for the purpose of keeping
the shuttle in perfect contact with the face of the shuttle race, without the
use of springs or any other device, and thereby ensuring the securing
of every stitch, substantially as described with reference to Sheet I. of the
Drawings.
Secondly, I claim the curved and hinged cap, in combination with the shuttle,
to confine the cop in the shuttle, substantially and for the purpose set forth.
I also claim the use of a cop without a spindle or spool, in combination with
a shuttle, or its equivalent, when the thread is drawn from the inside of the
cop, by which means I retain an uniform draught on the cop thread as it is
drawn or paid out from the shuttle.
Thirdly, I claim the combination of the slot in the shuttle, and the pin or
stud in the race, or their equivalents, for the purpose of drawing the thread
from the shuttle bobbin, so that there may be an uniform tension upon the
shuttle thread when drawing up the stitch, substantially as described with
reference to Sheets II. and III. of the Drawings.
Fourthly, I claim drawing the needle thread of sewing machines from the
spool, before the needle enters the cloth to form the loop, by means of an

page_text: adjustable spiral groove in the stud on the needle bar, or its equivalent, so that
when the stitch is being tightened up, the only friction on the thread shall be
that caused by its passing around the groove, substantially as described.
Fifthly, I claim, in contradistinction from the double-acting dog or pawl
and ratchet wheel, which changes the time of feeding forward the cloth rela-
tively, in regard to the motion of the needle, the separate pawls operated by
a cam and levers, or otherwise, so that the feed, whether reversed or not, shall
always remain relatively the same with regard to the motion of the needle, or
so that the feed shall take place whilst the needle is going down or towards
the cloth, and not when it is leaving the cloth to draw up the stitch, substantially
as described.
And, lastly, I claim the construction and use of a nipper spring, which
moves or carries the thread sideways or horizontally away from the needle,
thus protecting the thread from being broken or cut by the needle, and
also without drawing such thread through the eye of the needle, and thus
weakening it.
In witness whereof, I, the said Alfred Vincent Newton, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, this Thirtieth day of September, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-four.
0
Witness,
FRED. WALKDEN,
66, Chancery Lane.
A. V. NEWTON. (L.S.)