Year: 1886

page_text: 1886.
Date of Application, 31st July,
Complete Left, 28th May, 1887.
Complete Accepted, 28th June, 1887.
I, EDWARD COPE of Lenton Firs, Nottingham, Lace Manufacturer do hereby
declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention has for its object an improved twist lace fabric.
At the present time a net fabric with square or diamond meshes is sometimes
produced in twist lace machines. In each pillar of the fabric there is a warp thread
and a bobbin thread and each pillar is caused to unite first with the pillar to the right
of it and then with the pillar to the left and so on, the warp thread of the pillar
engaging with the bobbin thread of the adjacent pillar.
Now according to my invention I obtain the appearance of a net of double the
gauge by the use of additional warp threads which remain straight in the fabric and
are so worked as to pass through and engage with the pillars at points about midway
between the junctions of one pillar with another. The straight longitudinal threads
so worked subdivide or break up the diamond meshes into series of hexangular and
triangular meshes of smaller dimensions, and the appearance of a finer net is
obtained.
CARPMAEL & Co.,
Agents for the Applicant.

page_text: I, EDWARD COPE of Lenton Firs, Nottingham, Lace Manufacturer, do hereby
declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed
to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This invention has for its object an improved twist lace fabric.
At the present time a net fabric with square or diamond meshes is sometimes
produced in twist lace machines.
In each pillar of the fabric there is a warp thread and a bobbin thread and each
pillar is caused to unite first with the pillar to the right of it and then with the pillar
to the left and so on the warp thread of the pillar engaging with the bobbin thread of
the adjacent pillar.
Now according to my invention I obtain the appearance of a net of double the
gauge by the use of additional warp threads which remain straight in the fabric and
are so worked as to pass through and engage with the pillars at points about midway
between the junctions of one pillar with another.
The straight longitudinal threads so worked subdivide or break up the diamond
meshes into series of hexangular and triangular meshes of smaller dimensions and the
appearance of a finer net is obtained.
In order that my said invention may be fully understood and readily carried into
effect I will proceed to describe the drawings hereunto annexed.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.
Figure 1 is a diagram of a net or lace fabric with diamond meshes as ordinarily
made. Figure 2 is a diagram of a net or lace fabric as made in accordance with my
invention with additional warp threads subdividing the diamond meshes into
hexangular and triangular meshes. a a are the warp threads which twist with the
bobbin threads and forin the pillars and b b are the additional warp threads. Figure 3
is a diagram indicating the positions occupied by these warp threads in the machine at
the time when the carriages are just entering amongst them in passing from back to
front. The threads bare carried by two bars one in front of and the other behind the
warp bar by which the threads a are carried.
The bar which carries the threads a is threaded with as many threads as there are
carriages at work in the machine but the two bars which carry the threads 6 are
only threaded with half this number of threads; they are what are called "half
bars."

page_text: Figure 4 shows the cam wheel which gives movement to the bar carrying the
threads a. It is such a cam as is usually employed in connection with "jacks" to
produce a diamond mesh.
In this figure d represents the nose against which the cam operates and the cam
occupies the position indicated in relation to this nose when the carriages are just
about to enter amongst the threads in passing from back to front. The shaft which
carries this cam makes one revolution in the direction of the arrow upon the figure for
each "motion" that is to say, whilst the carriages pass from front to back and return
from back to front. The nose d is as usual mounted on the lower end of a lever a
portion of which is shown at d', the lever turns about an intermediate pin or fulcrum
and the warp bar is connected with the lever near its upper end. A spring at the
further end of the warp bar keeps the nose d against its cam. When during the
rotation of the cam the point e upon it passes the nose d the bar carrying the threads a
"falls two gates" or spaces; when the point passes the bar "rises one gate"; when
the point g passes the bar "rises two gates" and when the point h passes the bar
"falls one gate."
The machine is as heretofore provided with "jacks"; there are as many jacks as
there are carriages and these jacks are controlled by the Jacquard.
"
In figure 4 the words "jacks enter are written between the points e and f and
again between the points g and h. This is to indicate that at the time when these
parts of the cam respectively come up to the nose d such of the jacks as are not held
back by the Jacquard enter amongst the threads and the effect of this is to cause two
adjacent pillars to unite or nip together. When the jacks do not operate the threads a
simply continue to twist each with its respective bobbin thread.
Figure 5 shows the cam for entering the jacks amongst the threads and for with-
drawing them. This cam makes a complete revolution for each motion (back and
front) of the machine, the part of the cam marked i, is operating when the carriages
are on the point of entering the threads from the back. At this time it will be seen
that the jacks (or such of them as the Jacquard permits to operate) are amongst the
threads but as the cam revolves they immediately retire. The jacks are then by
ordinary mechanism shogged or moved one gate or space from left to right to bring
them into position; they then again enter amongst the threads and after a time when
they have effected their purpose they again retire; they are next whilst out of the
threads shogged one gate from right to left; they then again enter amongst the
threads and this completes their cycle. I would here remark that I claim no novelty
in respect to the operation of the cam Figure 4 or of the jacks in connection there with
in the production of a fabric with diamond meshes but some description of these parts
and their action is necessary to the explanation of the way in which I work the
threads b b in connection therewith. The threads b as already stated are threaded in
two half bars and the bar carrying the threads a is between thein. The front half bar
is actuated by the cam shown by Figure 6 and this cam makes but one revolution
whilst the cam Figure 4 makes twenty four revolutions. The cam has as shown two
rises and two falls each of one gate or space. These are so spaced around the cam
that the bar moves every six motions remaining down six motions and up six motions
and the movements take place at the times when the front straight down threads b are
required to engage with the pillars as indicated by Figure 2. At the times the
movement of the thread 6 from side to side of the bobbin causes it to be caught by
the bobbin thread and tied into the pillar. The straight down threads which are at the
back or behind the threads a are carried by a half bar which is operated in the same
way as the front bar by a cam similar to Figure 6 but it is placed on its shaft in a
slightly different position for the movement of the front straight down threads should
take place when the carriages are in the front and that of the back straight down
threads should take place when the carriages are in the back. In both cases the
movement takes place when the straight down thread is required to engage with the
pillar and midway or thereabout between the points at which the pillars themselves
meet or nip together. It is obvious that the number of twists in the pillars between

page_text: these points may be varied. By these means I cause the straight down threads b to
be tied into the pillars so as to divide the diamond meshes into triangular and
hexangular meshes as the drawing indicates and so produce the appearance of a finer
gauge. This ground net may be ornamented by spool threads as is well understood
and the spool threads can be controlled by the same jacks which produce the ground
net and these are able to advance two distances either to enter amongst the spool
threads only and then both the spool threads and the warp threads a twist in their
pillars or to advance a greater distance so as to influence also the threads a as already
described.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I claim is :-
The novel twist lace fabric consisting of pillars each composed of a warp thread
and a bobbin thread uniting to form diamond meshes which are subdivided by
additional straight warp threads into hexangular and triangular meshes substantially
as described.
CARPMAEL & Co.,
Agents for the Applicant.