Improved Means for Sewing Tubular Leather Goods.
Year: 1889

page_text: Date of Application, 19th July, 1887
Complete Specification Left. 18th Apr.. 1890-Accepted. 7th June, 1890
PROVISIONAL
SPECIFICATION.
Improved Means for Sewing Tubular Leather Goods.
THOMAS MARSDEN COCKROFT, Mechanie, LL. Sharrow Street. Sheffield, and ROGER
FARMER. Mechanic, 16,School Croft, Sheffield, in the County of York, do hereby declare
the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
"
Our invention relates to sewing machines, and has for its object improvements in
the construction and combination of parts in a sewing machine adapted for what is
technically known, to those who are acquainted with the leather irade. as
fat
seaming more especially on that class of goods of a tubular, or of an elliptical cross
section, and of a gradual taper, such as dagger sheaths, swords scabbards, bayonet
cases, holster cases, tubular straps and traces &c.
We find that the above described class of flat seaming has been generally
accomplished by hand stitching or closing; and we are not aware, that hitherto, any
machine has been made to "flat seam "these goods.
In carrying out our invention, we take a machine of the Howe type. the needle and
shuttle motion of which are too well known to need any description. We do not
wish to confine our invention to a machine of this type only; because our improve-
ments are equally applicable to other classes of sewing mechanism.
We will now proceed to describe our invention by reference to the sheet of
drawings hereto annexed, of which-
Fig. I is a front view with a section of blank and core in position for sewing.
Fig. 1a front view with the arms open and presser roller and block B in their
backmost position.
Fig. I back view with arms closed and presser roller and block B in their fore-
most position.
Fig. I plan of forward part of base plate A and block B.
Fig. V section of Fig. IV on liner.
Fig. VI detached view of presser roller and connected parts.
Fig. VIT plan and section of needle plate (half size).
Fig. VIII plan and section of a modification of the needle plate (half size).
Fig. IX side and front views and cross section of metallic tubular case.
Fig. X longitudinal and cross sections of blank & core.
Fig. XI front view of stitched case with core inserted.
Fig. Xa front elevation, section, and plan (with and without plate o¹) views of
another modification of needle plate (half size).
Fig. XII a perspective view of spring clip.
We mount the machine head upon a wood frame attached to four lugs (two of which
a al are shown in Fig. 1) cast with the base plate A. Base plate A has V grooved
cheeks, in which a block B. slides. Secured to block B, is a vertical stud C.
standard D. spring catch E. guide bars F and bracket G: all of which, with the paris
carried thereby, are adjustable nearer to, or further from the needle, by moving
block B in grooved cheeks P
Said block B is rigidly fixed in any desired position by thumb screw h.
Sleeved upon stud C, is a tube carrying a circular wedge at one end, and a
segmental spur pinion at the other end. A lever handle, with slot is secured
to tube by collar; slot engages pin on rack &; rack carries a pin 7 con-
nerted by spiral spring to pin fixed in block B. Rack, slides in guide bars F
and gears with spur pinion and is locked in its backmost position by lever handle e
taking against spring catch E: when the arms to be hereinafter described are opened
to their full extent by circular wedge of.
Standard D is bored out to receive a stud d' upon which horizontal arms d² and №³

page_text: .
are freely mounted, said arms are jointed at d and d³, and have plate springs d
and 7, with adjustable screws and, which in conjunction with joints at d and d
and plate springs and d give parallel adjustment to the presser roller and feed wheel
to be hereinafter described.
Arm
carries freely mounted at its forward end a conical presser roller ¹º, and
at its rear end a runner d" and pin d
and
.
runner 14
The corresponding arm ³ carries at its forward end, a vertical feed wheel ³,
with the well known clutch lever arrangement, and at its rear end a
and pin The arms
are kept in contact with wedge hy spiral spring d
embracing pin and 5. Feed wheel has a brake d7, which is tapped and
screwed to the forward end of arm, and is secured in contact with the vertical face
of feed wheel by lock nuts.
Bracket G carries a vertical stud g with tube g² sleeved thereon; tube g carries at
its lower end a lever g³, and pin g pin g is connected by spiral spring g to pin g
secured in block B.
The top part of tube has a lever with stud g8; upon stud g is freely mounted
a horizontal presser roller gº. Secured to the under part of lever is a spring
handle projecting over a bracket ", which handle takes into a catch g2, and holds
the presser roller gª until the goods to be sewn are placed in position. The forward
movement of the presser roller is by the pressure of spring and the extent
of such movement is regulated by stop and recess g at the lower end of tube g².
Clutch lever I is drawn back by spiral spring connected to pin secured in
bracket G.
A horizontal rock shaft K actuated by an ordinary feed tappet; rocks on pivot k
and which are screwed through pillars and secured in base plate A. Rock
shaft is formed with wing . stitch regulator lever and screw, and vertical bar k³;
har receives its motion from the feed tappet and communicates the well known
intermittent motion to feed wheel through wing and clutch lever 1.
To adapt the hereinbefore described mechanism to a machine of the Howe type, we
find it necessary to cut away the bedplate of the machine in a transverse line outside
the needle slot (see Figs. I LE 111).
We employ a needle plate of special construction as shown in Fig. VII. grooved
and bevelled the full length and having two conical pulleys, needle slot 73. guide
and dividing blade / conical pulleys revolve freely on studs and 6, blade is
secured rigidly to the needle plate by screw 17.
Fig. VIII shows a modification of needle plate in which a fixed plate 75. takes the
place of the conical pulleys and wherein the guide and dividing blade is further
from the needle slot in this modification the bevelled needle plate and plate / form
in conjunction a horizontal > groove for guiding the edges of the leather blank.
The leather blanks to form a sheath or case are cut out in the usual manner, as if
intended for hand stitching.
To prepare the blanks for stitching on our improved machine we employ an india-
rubber or other suitable core, and double the blank around the full length of the core:
we then place core and blank N between presser roller and feed wheel 3 and
bring the horizontal presser roller against the back of the blank N. (see Fig. 1) we
now insert the top and bottom edges of the doubled over blank 711 the hori-
zontal groove: (formed as shown in Fig. VI VIH) said edges are divided by
blades and are thereby guided into position to be stitched.
We also employ as an alternative process or method, a metallic tubular case P.
slotted the full length, with a curved tail piece at the rear end; into this case we
insert the doubled' over leather blank, with the edges projecting through the slot:
we then insert a wood or other core inside the doubled over leather blank and
metallic tubular case P. which securely wedges the blank against the metallic
case P. and holds the bevelled edges of the leather blank against collapse; we there-
upon place in position for sewing in the mode hereinbefore described.
Fig. XI shows a case N in front view with a line of stitching and the core M
ready for withdrawal.

page_text: In Fig. XII, is the bottom plate. the top plate both hevelled as hereinbefore
described, a guide and dividing blade swinging on pin o³; blade has pins o³, and
spring
In this modification blade o² is pushed back against the resiliency of spring of into
the position shown in dotted lines, by the presser roller g, to allow the tip of the taper
case N to be presented across the path of the needle.
We use a spring clip, R shown in perspective in Fig. XIII to clamp the forward
end of the leather blank around the core M.; we only use this clip when sewing
without the metallic tubular case P.
Dated this the Eighteenth day of July. 1889.
T. M. COCKROFT,
Agent for Applicants.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improved Means for Sewing Tubular Leather Goods.
THOMAS MARSDEN COCKROFT, Mechanic, 12, Commercial Street, Leeds, and ROGER
FARMER, Mechanic, of 16, School Croft, Sheffield, in the County of York, do hereby
declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:-
Our invention relates to sewing machines, and has for its object improvements in
the construction and combination of parts in a sewing machine adapted for what is
technically known to those who are acquainted with the leather trade, as flat
seaming, more especially on that class of goods of a tubular, or of an elliptical cross
section, and of a gradual taper, such as dagger sheaths, sword scabbards, bayonet
cases, holster cases, tubular straps and traces &c.
We find that the above described class of "Hat seaming" has been generally
accomplished by hand stitching or closing and we are not aware that hitherto any
machine has been made to flat seam these goods.
In carrying out our invention. we take a machine of the Howe type, the needle
and shuttle motion of which, are too well known to need any description. We do not
wish to confine our invention to a machine of this type only; because our improve-
ments are equally applicable to other classes of sewing mechanism.
We will now proceed to describe our invention by reference to the sheet of
drawings lodged with our Provisional Specification: of which―
Fig. 1 is a front view with a section of blank and core in position for sewing.
Fig. II a front view with the arms open and presser roller and block B in their
back most position.
Fig. III back view with arms closed and presser roller and block B in their
foremost position.
Fig. V plan of forward part of baseplate A, and block B.
Fig. V section of Fig. IV on line .r, r.
Fig. VI detached view of presser roller and connected parts.
Fig. VII plan and section of needle plate (half size).
Fig. VII plan and section of a modification of the needle plate (half size).
Fig. X longitudinal and cross section of blank and core.
Fig. XI front view of stitched case with core inserted.
Fig. XII a front elevation, section and plan views (with and without plate o¹) of
a modification of needle plate (half size).
Fig. XIII a perspective view of spring clip.
We mount the machine head upon a wood frame attached to four lugs (two of
which a a are shown in Fig. 1) cast with a baseplate A. Baseplate A las V grooved
cheeks in which a block B. slides. Secured to block B. is a vertical stud C,
standard D). spring catch E, guide bars F, and bracket G; all of which, with the
parts carried thereby, are adjustable nearer to, or further from the needle, by moving
block B in grooved cheeks b

page_text: Said block B is rigidly fixed in any desired position by thumb screw h.
Sleeved upon stud C is a tube carrying a circular wedge at one end, and a
segmental spur pinion at the other end. A lever handle, with slot is rigidly
fixed to tube by collar ; slot engages pin on rack said rack carries a
pin connected by spiral spring to pin " fixed in block B. Rack slides in
guide bars and gears with spur pinion c, said rack is drawn back and locked in its
back most position by lever handle taking against spring catch E; when the arms
to be hereinafter described are opened to their full extent by circular wedge.
Standard D is bored out to receive a stud d upon which horizontal arms d² and d
are freely mounted, said arms are jointed at and and have plate springs d
and ɗd, with adjustable screws 8 and d², which in conjunction with joints at and de
and plate springs and give parallel adjustment to the presser roller and feed
wheel to be hereinafter described.
Arm carries freely mounted at its forward end a conical presser roller and at
its rear end a runner and pin
and
The corresponding arm 3 carries at its forward end, a vertical feed wheel
with the well known clutch lever arrangement, and at its rear end a runner
pin . The runners on arms and are kept in contact with wedge by spiral
spring 6 embracing pins 72 and 715.
Feed wheel 13 has a brake
which is tapped and screwed to the forward end
of arm and is secured in contact with the vertical face of feed wheel 13 by lock
mut s
Bracket G carries a vertical stud g upon which a tube 2 is sleeved; iube g² carries
at its lower end a lever g³, and pin g'; said pin g' is connected by spiral spring g³ to
pin g secured in block B.
The top part of tube g² has a lever g with stud ; upon stud is freely mounted
a horizontal presser roller g.
Secured to the under part of lever g is a spring handle g projecting over a
bracket which handle takes into a catch g2 and holds the presser roller g. until
the goods to be sewn are placed in position. The forward movement of the presser
roller is by the pressure of spring g and the extent of such movement is regulated
by stop and recess at the lower end of tube g².
Clutch lever 1. is drawn back by spiral spring connected to pin 2 secured in
bracket G.
A horizontal rock shaft K actuated by an ordinary feed tappet; rocks on pivots k¹
and which are screwed through pillars and secured in baseplate A.
Rock shaft K is formed with wing, stitch regulator lever and screw and vertical
barbar receives its motion from the feed tappet, and communicates the
well known intermittent motion to feed wheel through wing k³ and clutch
lever I.
To adapt the herein before described mechanism to a machine of the Howe type.
a transverse line
we find it necessary to cut away the bedplate of the machine in
outside the needle slot. (See Fig. I II and III.)
We employ a needle plate of special construction as shown in Fig. VII grooved
and bevilled the full length and having two conical pullies and needle slot ³,
guide and dividing blade : said conical pullies revolve freely on studs 15 and 1º,
blade is secured rigidly to the needle plate by screw F.
Fig. VIII shows a modification of a needle plate in which a fixed plate 78 takes
the place of the conical pullies in Fig. VII and wherein the guide and dividing
blade is further from the needle slot in this modification the bevilled needle plate
and plate form in conjunction a horizontal > groove for guiding the edges of the
leather blank.
In Fig. XII another modification of needle plate is shown, in which o is the
bottom plate, of the top plate, both bevilled as hereinbefore described, 02 a guide
and dividing blade swinging on pin said blade has pins and spring o
impinging against said pins. In this modification, blade is pushed back against
the resiliency of spring, into the position shown in dotted lines, by the presser

page_text: roller 7º, to allow the tip of the taper case N to be presented across the path of the
needle.
We use a spring clip R. shown in perspective in Fig. XIII to clamp the forward
end of the leather blank around the core M.
The leather blanks to form a sheath or case are cut out in the usual manner as
if intended for hand stitching.
To prepare the blanks for stitching on our improved machine we employ an
indiarubber or other suitable core, and double the blank around the full length of
the core we then place core M and blank N between presser roller and feed
wheel and bring the horizontal presser roller against the back of said
blank N (Fig. 1) we now insert the top and bottom edges of the doubled over
blank in the horizontal > groove (formed as shown in Figs. VII and VIII) said
edges are divided by blade and they are thereby guided into position to be stitched.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we
claim is
"
Firstly. The process or method of flat seaming leather goods of a circular on
elliptical cross-section, by doubling a blank N over a core M, clamping said blank by
clip R. and then inserting a guide and dividing blade (or its equivalent o² in
Fig. XII) between the upper and lower edges of said blank; thereupon feeding and
stitching said blank in the manner hereinbefore described.
Secondly. The combination in a sewing machine of baseplate A, block B. vertical
stud C. standard D), spring catch E. guide bars F, and bracket G
specified.
as herein
Thirdly. In a sewing machine the combination of a vertical stud C, with tube c',
a circular wedge spur pinion . lever handle with slot secured to said tube
by a collar a più on rack engaging said slot a pin connected by
spring to pin in block B; and a lever handle et taking against, spring catch E
as herein specified.
and d and adjustable screws d³
of a feed wheel 13, runner
Fourthly. The combination in a sewing machine of a standard D. having a stud d'
arms and with joints and d, plate springs
anda presser roller, runner and pin
and pin spring brake and lock nuts for the purpose herein specified.
Fifthly. The combination in a sewing machine of a
lever in spring g³ pin g"; with a lever g, stud
handle bracket " catch g, stop and recess
specified.
bracket G. stud g tube g
. roller presser g³, spring
for the purpose herein
Sixthly. The combination in a sewing machine of a clutch lever J, spring
nected to pin secured in bracket G as herein specified.
con-
Seventhly. The combination in a sewing machine of a rock shaft K. with pivots t
and pillars 13 and 1. wing; stitch regulator lever and screw and vertical
bar as herein specified.
Eightly. A grooved and bevilled needle plate / forming a horizontal > groove
with needle slot P, guide and dividing blade
tion shown in Fig. XII of a bottom plate
blade swinging on pin against spring
specified.
".
and screw, or we claim the modifica
a top plate o, a guide and dividing
. and pins of as and for the purpose
Dated this the Seventeenth day of April, 1890.
T. M. COCKROFT,
For self and
ROGER FARMER.