Improved Processes and Apparatus for Ornamenting Fabrics.
Year: 1889

page_text: Improved Processes and Apparatus for Ornamenting Fabrics.
I PIERRE VICTOR RENARD of 28 Rue Roschot Fontenay sous Bois (Seine) France,
Artisan, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same
is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:
My invention relates to improved processes and apparatus for ornamenting fabrics
and it comprises 1st, a novel method of applying gutta percha topically upon fabrics
by a sort of stencilling operation to serve as a fixing medium for powder, flock
threads or fibres of silk or ramic, goats and other hair and particularly of silk or
ramie, for producing imitations of broché or figured silks, which are ordinarily
produced by weaving. These effects are produced upon ordinary woven fabrics, by
brushing the silk or ramie powders after they have been caused to adhere to the
gutta percha. Applied to open work fabrics effects in imitation of double faced
velvets or double faced broché silks are obtained according as the powdered surface is
or is not brushed after being applied upon the gutta percha.
The fabrics thus ornamented may either be employed without further preparation
or after vulcanization, particularly in the case of close fabrics, for the purpose of
causing the powders or pile to more firmly adhere and rendering the gutta percha
more flexible and less affected by heat, and so rendering these fabrics more suitable
for making articles of dress.
The vulcanization is effected by passing the fabrics at the rate of from three to five
feet per minute through a box heated to from 45° to 40° C., and containing in a tray
about one pint of chloride of sulphur.
The ramie and silk (whether cut up or ground) employed in the manufacture of
these improved fabrics may be of any color and in the case of silk be applied either
before or after ungumming to any extent.
The thickness of the gutta percha layer is determined by that of the pattern plate
or stencil employed. The gutta percha may be either pure or mixed with gumlac,
resins and other matters and it may be dissolved in benzene or other solvent enabling
it to be kept liquid when heated in a water bath, the preferred solution being
composed of about two pounds of gutta percha to one and three quarter pints of
benzene.
The stencilling operation may be performed by hand by means of the apparatus
represented in sheet 1 of the accompanying drawings, figure 1 of which is an end
elevation figure 2 a front elevation and figure 3 a plan of a machine for stencilling on
close fabrics.
The gutta percha solution is placed in a trough t, one side of which acts as a
scraper when applied in the manner shown in figure 4 upon the perforated stencil
plate D laid upon the fabric to be stencilled over. By drawing the scraper over the
whole surface of the stencil, the fabric beneath it receives a deposit of gutta percha
through all the apertures in the stencil which is then removed and applied on the
next part of the fabric to repeat the operation after the part which has just been
stencilled has been drawn beyond the guide bar B by rotating the roller C. The
fabric after being stencilled is hung up.
C
The table A is covered with cloth, india rubber or other suitable material on which
the fabric is carried from the roller X after first passing around the tension bar a.
The stencil plate I fits upon register pins d on the table and B is an adjustable bar for
guiding the tool by which the gutta percha is distributed and serving as a guide for
matching the repeats of the pattern. The take up roller has a roughened surface
for drawing the fabric along the table D and is provided with pawl and ratchet
gear F. H.

page_text: The stencilling operation may be performed mechanically upon close fabrics by
means of the machine represented in cross section in figure 6. The fabric a to be
ornamented is carried between an endless apron of india rubber G and an endless
stencil plate of metal D travelling at the same speed and in passing together beneath
the trough K containing the gutta percha, the fabrice receives a deposit therefrom
through the apertures of the stencil D. The fabric after being stencilled is carried
away by a roller or other means whereby it may be detached from the stencil and
apron or whereby it may be tentered or hung up after it leaves the machine.
In certain cases, tulle and other open fabrics generally may be stencilled by hand
or by machine as above described for close fabrics, the fabric being however, first
mounted upon gummed paper. After stencilling the tulle remains adherent to the
paper at all points where the gutta percha has been deposited, perfect adhesion being
ensured in case it should become accidentally detached by rolling lightly upon the
paper side before the gutta percha is quite hard. By damping the back of the paper,
the tulle can be readily detached therefrom. For applying the gutta percha solution
by hand to tulle or other open fabrics, I employ the machine represented in longitudinal
section in figure 5.
In this figure the same letters of reference indicate similar parts to those in the
preceding figures. The machine further comprises an endless web E travelling in the
direction of the arrow y around the rollers (C' and a hopper F containing a sieve f
and fixed upon the table A and apertured at n n', to allow of the passage of the
endless web as well as of the powder deposited from sieve f. The roller X' upon
which the fabric is wound is so mounted as to bear upon the endless web E and cause
it to be carried along therewith. (³ is a roller by which the fabric is detached from
the web E.
The fabric at same time that the gutta percha solution is deposited thereon takes up
on the under side a quantity of powder distributed upon the endless web E by the
sieve which enables the fabrics to be hung up after being stencilled, but the two
selvedges of the fabric may be tentered upon fixed or self acting tenter frames.
The scraper employed for applying the gutta percha solution may be worked in the
direction of the length, instead of the breadth of the web E, in which case the
stencil D would be made of increased length, the web being provided if desired with
points on each side on which to fix the fabric.
Figures 6 and 7 show a machine for stencilling open fabrics. In this as in that
shown in figure 6 an endless web G preferably of india rubber is operated by sprocket
wheels, and above it is mounted the endless stencil D. driven by sprocket
wheels g, g³, g of the same diameter, whose teeth gear with rows of holes along the
edges of the bands which are strengthened at these parts. The sprocket wheels may
be driven by endless chain gearing h, h, i,,, . The roughened roller Cassists in
detaching the fabric from the webs GD, and is driven by toothed gearing m, m³, m².
The fabric is held down upon the india rubber web at each side at the point where it
leaves the stencil D by means of rollers g. The fabric is drawn from a roller X, as in
the former arrangements. The roller g is moistened by means of a roller J revolving
in a trough containing benzene which is thus transferred to the surface of the
stencil D, for the purpose of facilitating its passage beneath the trough K containing
the gutta-percha solution. The trough is enclosed in an outer casing k¹ filled with
water and heated by means of gas jets or in other suitable manner. The trough is
held down by a plate 2 provided with pressure screws at each end whereby it is
pressed uniformly upon the stencil through the apertures of which it deposits the
gutta-percha on the fabric.
In figure 7, the endless web G is extended to the rear and above it is placed a
hopper F with sieve bottom like that described in figure 5 and serving for a similar
purpose. In this arrangement the roller Cand gear wheels m m¹ m² are dispensed
with.
•
After the fabric has been stencilled as described, it is suspended or tentered .auto-
matically and when the gutta percha has become sufficiently hard to allow of handling,
the fabric is passed through the machine represented in longitudinal and cross sections

page_text: =
and plan in figures 8, 9, and 10, by which a satin or velvet finish is imparted. This
machine is provided with a hopper F and sifter f of the kind described in figures 5
and 7 and for a similar purpose and with a travelling apron Z wound on a roller Z
and passing over table A through the machine around guide rollers to
roller Zon which it is wound by differential or other gear. The fabric is wound
upon a roller X carried by apron Z through a chamber A heated to about from 110°
to 120° C. according as the gutta percha is pure or mixed whereby the gutta percha
sufficiently softened to retain the powder or "pile" and the benzene or other solvent
driven off. The fabric after leaving chamber M. passes to a shaker Q containing the
powders which adhere to the pattern stencilled on the fabric, which is finally brushed
if it is to receive a satin finish.
In the case of tulles and other open fabrics the fabric is stripped from the paper
backing on which it was mounted for the purpose of being stencilled as before
explained and placed upon the apron Z which has been sprinkled with powder by the
sieve carried through the heater M then through the shaker Q to the guide roller
at which point the fabric quits the web Z and passes over the roller C by which it is
deposited in the box L. The shaker comprises a casing containing a sieve g
suspended therein and filled with the "pile" or powdered substance at the trap t, the
bottom being of oilcloth or leather stretched taut and a rapid shaking motion is
imparted to it by means of toothed gearing and springs or equivalent mechanism.
The gutta percha design stencilled upon the fabric in passing through the heater
becomes sufficiently softened to cause a little of the powder, which is beneath the tulle
as it passes to the sbaker, to adhere to the underside whereby both sides of the gutta
percha covered parts become flocked or coated and in passing from roller =¹ to roller c
the tulle is exposed to the blast from a nozzle t¹ which removes the powder which
has lodged in the meshes of the fabric.
The heating chamber M extends from o to o¹ and is heated by rows of gas jets
placed beneath a cast iron plate p. The two sides of the chamber which rest upon the
side frames of the machine may be permanently fixed thereon, but they preferably
rest upon pieces of cloth secured to the side frames so as to allow of the heater being
removed when desired. oo are openings made in the sides of the heater for the
passage of the fabric a¹ a strip of cloth being fastened over the opening o to prevent
loss of heat. p is a glazed aperture behind which is placed a thermometer inside the
heater. v is a fan for creating a draught in the direction of the arrow to prevent the
powders contained in shaker from entering the heater, this being further ensured
by an exhaust at y leading into the chamber E into which the powders escaping from
shaker are received. The sieve q' is divided into compartments and is suspended
from cross-bars. The bottom of the casing is of oil-cloth, leather, caoutchouc, etc. and
is protected at the points where the beaters u strike by strips of strong fabric. This
bottom is nailed to the casing, leaving apertures of o³ between the bottom and sides in
the transverse direction. The beaters u are hinged to the side frames and are caused
to beat against the bottom by springs and are operated in succession by a shaft
provided with tappets having friction rollers (see figures 9 & 10) and arranged
spirally upon the shaft whereby a continuous vibration is produced. The beaters u¹ u³
serve to remove the powders adbering to underside of the apron, which fall upon a
guide s while other beaters u² detach the powders remaining on the other side, the
cleaning of the web Z being completed by the brush M' rotating in the direction of
the arrow.
The above arrangement of beaters is also applicable for removing surplus
powder from both sides of close fabrics while the brush serves to clean and impart a
satin-like effect. For this purpose, the hopper F is removed or emptied and the
web Z replaced by the fabric to be ornamented. A satin effect may be obtained
upon tulle by allowing it to wind up with the web ¼ so as to carry it past the
brush M¹.
"
To produce a velvet finish on both sides of tulles and other open fabrics which have
been stencilled in the machine represented in figures 5 and 7, that is to say where the
stencilled design upon the fabric has taken up a certain amount of powder on the

page_text: underside, the sifter F, figuro 8, is not required, the operation of the machine being
otherwise the same as before described.
The operation of producing a velvet finish upon close fabrics is similar, except that
the fabric should be subjected to a blast on both sides in passing from roller z¹ to
roller C, or brushes may be used instead for removing the powders remaining on the
fabric when the gutta percha deposit is dry. Or, the stencilled fabric may take the
place of the web Z, in which case the sifter brush M' and roller C would be
dispensed with, the roller Z taking the place of the latter but delivering the fabric
into the box L instead of winding it up which would injure the velvet finish.
For satining close fabrics, the web Z is replaced by the fabric itself, the sifter fand
roller C being also dispensed with, otherwise the machine remains the same as before,
the underface of the fabric being cleaned before arriving at the roller by the
beaters and the upper side by other beaters u². The satin or figured silk finish
being imparted by the brush M.
The machine represented in figures 6 and 7 may also be used for stencilling close
or open fabrics or paper with any adhesive matter such as boiled oil, varnish, gelatine,
and gum, etc., whether alone or mixed with other bodies capable of absorbing or
retaining powders or fibres or of producing the same effects either of themselves or by
means of special combinations.
If the matters employed do not require to be heated, the gas jets r 1 (figures 6
and 7) and also the jacket of trough K may be dispensed with.
Fabrics ornamented in the manner herein described are fit for use immediately on
leaving the machine, but they may be vulcanized, more particularly the close fabrics
to which a satin or figured silk finish has been imparted, for the purpose of obtaining
the more perfect adhesion of the powders or pile as well as for rendering the gutta
percha more supple and less sensitive to heat, thus enabling the fabrics to be used for
articles of dress.
Any of the means, or processes ordinarily employed for vulcanizing caoutchouc or
gutta percha may be adopted, but chloride of sulphur would be used by preference.
The powders instead of being sifted may be blown into the shaker, if desired.
The several apparatus herein described may be combined so as to constitute a single
machine for continuously effecting the series of operations for stencilling and velveting
or satining fabrics with or without the assistance of a heater.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is —
'
1st. The herein described process of ornamenting fabrics in imitation of velvet,
satin, or figured silk, which consists in applying to their surface dust, flock, powders,
fibres or threads of silk, ramie, goats and other hairs, either cut up or ground and
fixing by means of gutta percha topically deposited upon the fabric according to a
predetermined pattern and afterwards vulcanizing, substantially as specified.
2nd. The herein described process of producing double faced fabrics having
imitation velvet, satin, or broche figured designs thereon by means of tulle or other
open fabrics, by first depositing gutta percha thereon and then applying the powders.
flock threads or fibres cut up or ground and afterwards vulcanizing or not, as and for
the purpose specified.
3rd. The application of the vulcanizing process to close
or open fabrics
ornamented by the application of powders or flock fixed thereon by means of gutta
percha, as and for the purpose specified.
4th. The process of ornamenting close or open fabrics which consists in the
application of guita percha by a separate operation and then passing the fabrics either
continuously or intermittently through a heating chamber to soften the gutta percha
and cause it to retain the powders or flock applied on it, as and for the purpose
specified.
5th. The apparatus for applying the adhesive substance to fabrics in the manner

page_text: herein described, consisting essentially in the combination of an endless web G and
endless stencil D between which the fabric to be ornamented passes, a combined
trough and scraper and also a sifter (in the case of a double faced fabric) as described
and illustrated in figures 7 and 8.
6th. In the process of ornamenting tulle and other similar fabrics, as herein
described, the mounting of the fabric upon gummed paper for the purpose of receiving
the adhesive deposit, as specified.
7th. The apparatus for producing a velvet and satin finish upon fabrics treated in
the manner before described, which consists essentially in the combination of a sifter f
heating chamber M, shaker Q with sieve q' beaters u u¹², brush M³, bellows t¹ and
apron Z, as described and illustrated in figures 8, 9, and 10.
1000
143 R
P. V. RENARD.
By A. M. & Wm. Clark,
53, Chancery Lane, London, Patent Agents.