AN ENTIRE NEW METHOD OF MAKING AND COMPLEATING SHOES, BOOTS, SPATTERDASHES, CLOGS, AND OTHER ARTICLES, BY MEANS OF TOOLS OR MACHINES ALSO INVENTED BY ME FOR THAT PURPOSE, AND OF CERTAIN COMPOSITIONS OF THE NATURE OF JAPAN OR VARNISH, WHICH WILL BE VERY ADVANTAGEOUS IN MANY USEFUL APPLICATIONS
Year: 1790

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, THOMAS
SAINT, of Greenhills Rents, in the Parish of Saint Sepulchre, and County of
Middlesex, Cabinet Maker, send greeting.
WHEREAS His most Excellent Majesty King George the Third, by His
several Letters Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date at
Westminster, the Seventeenth day of July, in the thirtieth year of His reign,
did give and grant unto me, the said Thomas Saint, His especial licence that
I, the said Thomas Saint, during the terms of years therein respectively
expressed, should and lawfully might use, exercise, and vend, within Eng-
land, Wales, and the Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, and also in all His
Majesty's Colonies and Plantations abroad, my Inventions of "AN ENTIRE NEW
METHOD OF MAKING AND COMPLEATING SHOES, BOOTS, SPATTERDASHES, CLOGS, AND
OTHER ARTICLES, BY MEANS OF TOOLS OR MACHINES ALSO INVENTED BY ME FOR THAT
PURPOSE, AND OF CERTAIN COMPOSITIONS OF THE NATURE OF JAPAN OR VARNISH,
WHICH WILL BE VERY ADVANTAGEOUS IN MANY USEFUL APPLICATIONS;" in which
said Letters Patent there are contained respective provisoes obliging me, the
said Thomas Saint, under my hand and seal, to cause a particular description
of the nature of my said Inventions, and in what manner the same are to be
performed, to be inrolled in His Majesty's High Court of Chancery within
two calendar months after the date of the said recited Letters Patent, as in
and by the same, relation being thereunto had, may more fully and at large
appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said provisoes, I, the said
Thomas Saint, do hereby declare that my said Inventions are described in the

page_text: Plan and description thereof hereunto annexed, and in manner following, that
is to say:
То
No. 1. Take one gallon of linseed oil, and four ounces of flax or hemp (as
dressed for spinning); boil these together (over a moderate fire till the
greatest part of the flax or hemp is dissolved or consumed. By that time the
oil will have attained the consistence of a thick jelly. To bring these into a
fluid state again, add (while it is hot) as much of the spirit or oil of turpentine
as necessary for that purpose; then strain it through flannel for use.
make it harder, dissolve in it eight ounces of gum sandarack or mastick; and
to make it still harder, if requisite, add a larger quantity of gum. By this (if
the material that it is laid upon will bear the heat of a japanner's stove) you
may render it as hard as, and similar to, horn or tortoiseshell, or other sub-
stances of that nature.
No. 2. Take one gallon of linseed oil, two ounces of flax (as dressed for
spinning), and six ounces of umber (burnt or unburnt). Boil these together
(over a moderate fire) till the oil appears very brown and thick; then strain
it through flannel, and add half an ounce of stone brimstone. Then boil it
again till it has the appearance of melted pitch; but, if wanted thinner, add
the spirit or oil of turpentine till it is sufficiently thin for your use. This, by
the heat of a japanner's stove, may be brought to the like consistence and
appearance as the composition last mentioned.
No. 3. Take six pounds of the best stone pitch, and one pound of flax
dressers' hurds. Boil these together (over a moderate fire) till the hurds are
consumed. "Then add eight ounces of stone brimstone. Boil this well again
(over a slow fire), and add as much common drying oil as will render it of the
consistence of good tar. But if wanted thinner, add the spirit or oil of
turpentine till it is sufficiently thin for your intended use.
No. 4. Take one pint of linseed oil, and four ounces of stone brimstone.
Boil them together over a strong fire till they thicken and rise. Pour it out
to cool immediately, or it will run over. Then melt this composition with
some of the best stone pitch; then pour it out to cool, and when cool, take a
very hot iron and lay upon it, and if it melts under the iron it is fit for use;
but if it don't melt, add more pitch till it does. If required thinner, add as
much drying oil while it is hot (prepared as under mentioned) as will bring it
to a proper consistence for use. For the drying oil, take one gallon of linseed
oil, and one ounce of flax or hemp (as prepared for spinning). Boil these
together over a brisk fire till the greatest part of the flax or hemp is dissolved
or consumed. Then strain it through flannel, and, while it is hot, add one
pound of gum sandarack, and boil it again till the gum is dissolved; then

page_text: strain it, as before, for use. This (if required) may be made thinner with the
spirit or oil of turpentine.
No. 5. Take one pint of linseed oil, and one ounce of stone brimstone.
Boil these together over a brisk fire till they thicken and rise; pour it out to
cool immediately, or it will run over. Dissolve this in spirit or oil of turpen-
Note, the more
tine till it is of a proper consistence for your intended use.
brimstone there is, the sooner the composition dries.
And this composition, if
laid on any material that will bear the heat of a japanner's stove, will become.
so hard that scarce any violence will affect it. Note, all these compositions.
should be prepared in an iron pot, earthern pipkin, or other proper vessel.
The method to use the compositions:-Lay the material, whether linen,
woollen, cotton, or other thing (or the manufacture produced by means of the
machinery No. 1 and 3), on a smooth cast-iron plate, with a rim or raised:
Place the
edge all round it, to prevent the composition from running off.
plate so that you can make a fire under it, of a regular heat, then lay on
your material either of the compositions No. 3 or 4, as a ground, and, with an
hollow iron cylinder or roll (made hot with a heater or charcoal inclosedi
therein) pass it backwards and forwards over the surface till a sufficient:
quantity is imbibed or worked into the material for the purpose and use you
intend it for. Or you may use a hot iron for the purpose; but the cylinder or
roll is the best method. Then draw the material between or through two iron
cylinders or rolls, heated as before to consolidate it, and take off or clear away
the superfluous composition from the material; then finish with either of
the compositions No. 1, 2,, or 5, which must be laid on with a painter's brush;
then dry the material well in a japanner's stove. For silk, dilute the compo-.
sitions with spirit or oil of turpentine, and lay it on with a painter's brush; and
dry it in the open air or in a stove. The material thus prepared will be very
useful and proper for the upper parts of shoes, boots, spatterdashes, clogs, and
for umbrellas, roofs, and pannels, &c., of coaches, awnings,, sheathings, and,
For
other purposes that require waterproof and resistance of the sun.
leather, lay the leather upon an iron plate or other smooth surface, and lay
the composition on with a painter's brush, and work it well in with a hot iron,
with a round face, till it is smooth and glossy, and appears like Spanish leather.
For the bottom or soles and heels of shoes, boots, clogs, and other articles,
take millboard, of the thickness and size you please, and lay it on the iron
plate, and pour upon it the compositions No. 8 or 4, but 3 is the most pre-
ferable, which work into the material with the hollow iron cylinder or roll, as
before directed. Then dry it in a stove of a moderate heat. Then lay on, by
way of finish, the compositions No. 1, 2, or 5, but I prefer the use of No. 2.

page_text: Or take any of the following materials, viz:-Old ropes, linen, woollen, or
cotton, and grind or make them into a pulp, then add to it an eighth part of
the composition No. 8. Or grind or make into a pulp the cuttings or shavings
of leather; then add to this a twelfth part of the composition No. 3. To form
these pulps into a sufficient substance for soles, heels, &c., take a cast iron or
other metal mould, of the shape and size required, moderately heated, to
prevent the pulp from sticking, and put as much of the pulp into it as is
necessary for the substance required; then press out all the moisture you can,
either with a rolling or screw press. Then harden the article in a stove to
such a degree as is necessary for the intended use or purpose. Note, for soles
you may fix a number of points in the mould for the stitching part, which will
save trouble; and for the heel of women's shoes you may put a bit of wood in
the centre of the pulp, which will add to the strength. And when the pulp is
made, you may also mix with or add thereto small pieces of any metal, or
metal calcined, which will make the sole much more durable. Note, rub your
irons or rollers with linseed oil, to prevent the compositions from sticking to
them. And you may lay the compositions on one or both sides of the
materials, according to the use you intend it for.
In witness whereof, I, the said Thomas Saint, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Seventeenth day of September, One thousand
seven hundred and ninety
EDW. MONTAGU.
AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the said Seventeenth day of Sep-
tember, in the year above written, the aforesaid Thomas Saint came before
our Lord the King in His Chancery, and acknowledged the Specification
aforesaid, and all and every thing therein contained, in form above written.
And also the Specification aforesaid was stampt according to the tenor of
the Statute in that case made and provided.
Inrolled the same Seventeenth day of September, in the year above
mentioned.

page_text: w
Fig 1 Represents then Machine complete A. is the Distaff to put the materials upon to be spun. B is a Collar of which
N is the End View and 0. the side view in which, are fixed the pieces of Steel Fig 2. This collar regulates the Thread
to be spune as to quality or fineness The prices of the Steel must be so frict or Fastened by James in the Coller as in
0. and, 12.3 4.5.6 in N as to terminate in a Paint, shorter and shorter and are made sharp at the plaints and inside
Edges. CC is a Carriage divided into two parts and which run in a Groove, as at 3 to one port of this Carriage is
fixed the Pincers 1. by Rivet at 3. and work in the other part in Groves at R.R. and open and shut by the
-motion of the Courage.
c. c. . These Pinces are to dive the Thead through the Collar B: To the end of C. is
fixed the Slide C which is put in motion by the Crank H. The Dincers are turned up at the points to hold the
Thund at D. is a hole through which the thread, passeth to the Fly at E. P. is the spool that reaiveth the
Thawed. 1. 1. ure holes in the Crank H. to regulate the hoisting which will be the harder, the nearer the slides G.G.
-fixed to the center, M. M. are tur Pulleys to convey the Cord to the Pulley upon the Spool H.H. isa. Spindle
number of Wheels may be fixt, which may all have motion at the same time or any one of them
• stopped by disbanding it.-T. is the Windlass by which the Spindle H. puts I in motion by the
Bund at S. Figure 7. is a bearing for the Spinelle..
ше
wherem
may
be
uny
last taken, and so it
gees
mn
Explanation of the Muchine N.2. for stitching quilting or serving, A.B.C. is the Frame. Figure I, is the
heel for the Thread. 2 is a Spindle which moving to the light convers the Thread to the Needle at 4 and moving to
the left again tukes hold of the Stitch and keeps it light, till the Needle has brought another Stitch through the
• allanately, till the whole article is compleatly stitched. 3 is the and that makes the
holes for the needle to pass through 5 is w Spindle that goes through the Toppet at 6 which by turning
the Spindle at 5, the dwl and Nudle is worked by the Cogs 15 and 16. which are in the Spindle at 3 and the
• motion of this Spindle gives motion to the Prongs 26 and 27 which are in the Spindle at 2. 16 is a
Cog that guid
motion to the Wheel 7 which wheel gives motion to a Hide at 12 which moves along the Grooves at I and 10. by means
of a Soueur that is fixed in the Wheel, to which Slide the Article is fixed for stitching - The phong 26 goes into
whole at the Shute 13 and gives motion to it, which draws the Thread on the under side of the article and
holds at light, till the next stitch is taken and so on till it is done - 22 in Figure to is a shoulder that
the Coq
at 15 works against - At 21 is a Shoulder that the log at 16 works against these work the Poppet at 6
19 9 20 aw two screws to fasten the awl and Needle 3. and 4. in 25 is the Thread passing in between the
Awol and Needle which the Eye of the Needle receiveth - 24. is a souw to requlate the distance from the edge
or side of the Achele you are stitching - 25 is a Bruce or Support to the Top of the Machine - The Cogs
14. 15. 16. 17. and 18 in the Spindle, at 5. should be to fastened as to be screwed up or down according to the
yuulity of the utilide und fininess or cours mess of the Stitching required - Caplunution Figures 1 and 2 in
U!
the Muchine 3 for Plutting or Weaving - Figure 1. A is a Cylinder that receiveth The Buster B, with the
Matial plasted upon it. C. C. aw Tubes or Tipes that convey the Thread to the Piston wherson it is platted
by pulling the Line upon a cuculur slide at D.D. first one and them the other and at the same time mos
ups the Ride F. F. and likewise moves the Circular Sliding Frame E.E. which causeth the Tubes or Tipes to Cass
-each other 6:6. is w beaming for the Sliding Frames E. E. to work upon - At H. H. are two Grooved in the Cylinders
wherein two pind Slide that au justered to the supporters of the Curcular Slide at I.I., which by pulling the
Lines cocusions than to use in the Grooves and the two Springs at H.H. moves them back again - I is a
wright that draws down the Piston as the Platting increaseth repon it M.M.M.M. is a crailow Frame that
the Slides F.F. more upon and down in. N. is a handle to full up the Piston D. D. is a Cicularl
piece of Leads to bear down the Tubes or Tepes P. P. 1s in support for the Circular Frame M.M.M.M..
TTTT shoulders on the Jules or Pipes 0.0. that prevent them from slipping endwars. Figure 2. is the
betton fuert of the Circular Frame M.M.M.M. Figure 1. R.R B. R. in Fig I is a Cecular Frame with half
the number of sietches in it to what the light punts are in Figure 2. At S.S.S.S. ure four points that
belong to the Studes at F. F. in Figure I which go through the holes in Figure 2 and down to the
Cicular slides at DD in Figure 1. The light peats in Figure 2, are the Grooves that the Slides F. Fin
Figure 1, work in Notes. This Muchines may be worked by hand by u Mill Steam Engine or other power - The Method
of Making Shoes Boots & is as follows - Take two common Lasts and join the hos top sides together at the nacement
part of the Heel so that when set down the one shall hang ove the other then fixo of the lasts in a Vice
and work upon the others, first put the inner sole: upon the last them put a little of the Composition N. 3
upon the sole to stick the edges of the upper parts to, then stitch the upper part and kind quarter together
then draw it right on the last Hammer the Edges well down all round, then rub the bottom of the inna colu
with a little of the sume composition all over then put on the outside sole and stitch it on to the inside Sde utier
by the Machine N."2 or by hand with the Aud and Needle N: 3 and 4 when so done pug or brad the steel then
• take an Iion. Mould, the exact size of the sole of the Shoe and another of the exact form of the bottom
of the Last upon which the shoe was made (but not too light in the upper part / thers put a little of
the same Composition on the stitches on the inside of the thou then put in the lining smoothly then
make the Moulds warm and put one to the sole and the other into the show then put it into a Screw press and
press it well and it is compleated. Note- instead of Stitching the soles together they may be screwed bradded wicked
or pegged together and then pressed but this is not equal to stitching them together. The Leg part of the Boots
Spallerid dashes J
either be made in the common way or may be platted up by means of the Mack
may
"
ACLO
me