Improvements in the Manufacture of Woven Beaded Fabrics.
Year: 1894

page_text: Date of Application 19th July 1894-Accepted. 10th Nov., 1891
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Woven Beaded Fabrics.
I JOHANN ADAM CONRAD LEISTNER of No. 11 Wiesenstrasse, Oelsnitz, Vogtland,
Saxony, Germany, Weaver, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in
what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascer-
tained in and by the following statement:-
My said invention relates to the manufacture of beaded fabrics as for example
covers strips trimmings and the like in looms and has for its object a fabric in
which the beads strung on the weft are shot into the shed of warp threads and
laid on a bottom or foundation fabric by means of a binder warp so as to form a
pattern depending on the use of beads of various colours or materials and the
arrangement of the beads on the weft.
Referring to the accompanying drawings-
Figure is a schematic plan of the weave.
Figure 2 is a longitudinal section of the beaded fabric.
Figure 3 is a plan of a portion of such a fabric.
Figure 4 represents a piece of the weft thread with beads strung on.
In the manufacture I use an ordinary loom provided with three warps each on a
separate beam, viz.-First a ground warp of somewhat stout yarn, secondly a binder
warp of moderate thickness of yarn and thirdly a bead binding warp of finer yarn.
The harness has three shafts, one for each warp. The ends are drawn in as in
Figure 1 in the following order b c a, b c a, b c a, and so on. The binding is
effected in the following order :-
Shed 1, shaft c up, a and b down,
Shed 2, shaft c down, a and b up,
Shed 3, shaft b up, a and c down.
The weft for the ground enters the first and second sheds while the beaded portion
is put in in the third shed.
As may be seen from Figure 3 the binder warp i goes over the weft which carries
the beads p and is then secured in the foundation by a separate weft thread m.
In Figure 3 the binder warp i is the only part of the foundation represented.
In order to secure the beads at the edges of the fabric the beadless portions of
the beaded weft fare put in in front of each row and bound in the foundation as
shown in Figure and indicated in dotted lines in Figure 4.
As each bead lies between two threads of the bead binder warp a pattern is
produced which corresponds to a design according to which the beads may have
been strung on the weft.
The beaded weft is preferably put in the shed by means of an ordinary shuttle.
The weft (which is wound on a pirn bobbin or tube adapted to fit the shuttle) is so
threaded with beads as to leave spaces or intervals without beads on the threads.
Such beadless portions correspond (apart from those necessary for the spacing of
the heads for pattern) to about twice the width of the fabric.
Referring to Figure 4 in which R and L are respectively right and left hand a
portion of beaded weft wow is first put in by the shuttle from R to L. Then a
length of weft w¹ equal to the width of the cloth is drawn through to the right is
then cut off and put across by hand. On the return of the shuttle from L to R it
leaves in the shed the beadless weft w. At the next pick of the shuttle from R
to L beads are put in as before. Two beadless picks thus follow each other after
each row of beads. The weft may however be put in by hand.
The beads may be of any suitable material such as glass porcelain silver or gold.

page_text: Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said 'inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is.
1. As a new article of manufacture a beaded fabric produced by threading the
beads on the weft and securing same to the foundation by binder warp threads i
crossing over the weft between the beads and having the unbeaded ends of the
bead weft woven in the foundation in front of each row of beads substantially as set
forth and shown in the accompanying drawings:
Dated this 17th day of July 1894;
E. T. WHITELOW, A.M. Inst. C.E.,
70, Deansgate, Manchester, Agent for the Applicant.