Year: 1887

page_text: I, GUSTAV CHWALLA, of the firm of C. M. Chwalla Söhne of Vienna, Austria,
Fabric Finishers, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement :-
According to this invention patterns are made to appear on pile fabrics, such as
velvets and plushes, either by plucking out the pilo threads from spots of the fabric
according to the design, or by cutting the pile on these spots while the pile elsewhere
remains uncut. By combining these two methods, that is to say by first cutting the
pile on certain spots of the fabric and then plucking out the pile threads from other
parts or from portions of the cut spots, patterns may be produced presenting
three tints.
In carrying this invention out in practice the pile threads on those spots where they
are to be retained as well as those which are to remain uncut, are preferably flattened
down and at the same time pasted together by size, or glue, such as is used in
finishing fabrics.
The pile threads are then plucked out from the spots not sized by means of cards,
emery rollers or scrapers acting on the back of the fabric.
For flattening down and pasting together the pile threads that are to be retained,
the chosen pattern is either printed in glue or size on the back of the fabric by means
of rollers or plates engraved in relief, or the glue or size is applied to the piled surface
of the fabric, which is passed under an engraved roller or engraved pressing plates.
Instead of pasting together the pile threads that are to be retained the fabric may
be caused to advance in a well stretched condition over a pattern roller engraved in
relief and revolving with the same surface speed as the fabric advances. The piled
surface of the fabric facing this pattern roller, rapidly rotating card or emery rollers
are caused to act against the back of that portion of the fabric which is in contact
with the engraved roller. The portions of the fabric which pass over the hollows of
the roller more or less enter them and thus have their pile threads protected against
the plucking out action while the pile threads that pass over the prominent parts of
the roller are drawn out by the card or emery cylinder.
In order now completely to protect the pile threads from being plucked out the
back of the fabric has a pulverulent comment spread over it and the fabric is then made
to pass between an engraved pattern roller and a moistened paper roller.
The prominent parts of the engraved roller press down the pile against the paper
roller and as this moistens the fabric the compressed pile threads are cemented

page_text: together so that on afterwards treating the back of the fabric with cards, scrapers, or
emery rollers these threads cannot be plucked out.
Fig. 1 of the accompanying drawings is a diagrammatic section of apparatus for
treating fabric as above described.
The pile fabric S having its pile presented downwards, runs from the roller R over
the guide roller L, and the support we while the pulverulent cement K is spread over
its back to a thickness governed by the strickle M. The fabric then passes under
the engraved pattern roller W the prominent portions of which press the pile the pile
threads against the paper roller F which is partly immersed in a water trough V.
The paper roller F may obviously be moistened by any other known means.
Fig. 2 shews a modified method of cementing the pile threads, which are not to be
removed, by spreading the pulverulent cement K over a travelling apron m which
passes from the roller R¹ over the guide roller L' and beneath the fabric S between W
and F. The apron m may be made of waxed paper or of a fabric supplied with liquid
cement. The prominent parts of W press down the pile threads of the fabric S, and
cause corresponding portions of the back of the fabric to be pressed against the apron,
and thus to be impregnated with cement.
When a pattern or design is to be reproduced by the combination of portions of
pile cut and uncut, the pulverulent cement is applied to the piled side of the fabric S,
as shewn in Fig. 3, or to an apron m, as shewn in Fig. 4.
By the engraved roller W, the pile portions which are to remain uncut, are
compressed, and being cemented together, they are not reached by the velvet cutter.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of this inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is
1. The herein described method of producing patterns or designs on piled fabrics by
plucking out by means of cards, emery rollers, or scrapers, acting against the back of
the fabric, the pile threads from certain portions of the fabric, according to the desired
pattern or design.
2. The herein described method of producing patterns or designs on piled fabrics,
by cementing together the pile threads on certain portions of the fabric according to
the pattern or design, and then plucking out the uncemented pile threads by means of
cards, emery rollers or scrapers acting against the back of the fabric.
3. The herein described method of producing patterns or designs on piled fabrics,
by printing with cement upon the back of the fabric, by means of plates or rollers
engraved in relief, and then causing cards, emery rollers or scrapers to act against the
back of the fabric.
4. The herein described method of producing patterns or designs on piled fabrics by
causing the stretched fabric to pass with its pile turned outwards over an embossed
roller, while cards, emery rollers or scrapers act against the back portion of the fabric
in contact with the roller.
5. The herein described method of producing patterns or designs on piled fabrics
by coating the piled surface of the fabric with cement, then printing on it the pattern
or design by means of engraved plates or rollers, and finally causing cards, emery
rollers or scrapers to act against the back of the fabric.
6. The herein described method of producing patterns or designs on uncut piled
fabrics by flattening down and cementing together the pile on certain portions of the
fabric, and then subjecting the fabric to a velvet cutter."
bo 1907
ABEL & IMRAY,
Agents for the Applicant..