IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF CERTAIN FIGURED FABRICS, AND IN THE MODES AND MEANS EMPLOYED THEREFOR
Year: 1871

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Thomas Bowe Gibson, of the City of Glasgow
in the County of Lanark, North Britain, Manufacturer, for the
Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF CERTAIN FIGURED
FABRICS, AND IN THE MODES AND MEANS EMPLOYED THEREFOR.”
Sealed the 12th April 1872, and dated the 4th November 1871.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Thomas Bowe Gibson
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition,
on the 4th November 1871.
I, THOMAS BOWE GIBSON, of the City of Glasgow, in the County of
Lanark, North Britain, Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of
the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF CERTAIN
FIGURED FABRICS, AND IN THE MODES AND MEANS EMPLOYED THEREFOR," to be
as follows, that is to say :-
This said Invention has reference to a new or improved figured fabric
of the figured muslin, harness, and lappet woven class, or hand insertions
on nets or laces combined with tambour embroidering, all as used for
transparent curtains, blinds, shawls, scarfs, dresses, flounces, table-
covers, and anti-macassars, and other purposes, or trimmings for these,

page_text: and in which the light and transparent or semi-transparent ground or
foundation boby fabrics (on which the pattern is formed) are made of
book muslin, tarlatan, leno, bobbin nets, Nottingham and Brussels nets,
and other machine made nets and laces.
And the nature of this Invention consists, first, in forming the spots,
leaves, design or pattern, or main shaded part thereof (as heretofore for
some of the said class or classes of ornamental fabrics, either by means
of hand insertion or weaving) upon or within the said light ground or
foundation fabric, so as to be interlaced therewith and show the effect in
white, or colored, or partly colored work either in the pattern or ground,
as a flushing pattern seen more effectually on one side, as in this class of
woven or ornamental fabrics and lappet goods, or as showing the pattern
and effect equally on both sides or surfaces of the fabric, as by harness
and jacquard pattern weaving in such manufactures; and in all which the
effect is produced by the differences in opaqueness and whiteness or
depth of color of the said pattern or design, by the number or thickness
of the white or colored threads woven or interlaced into the pattern part
of the fabric; or in some cases the foundation may be cut away where
the pattern is required to be, and have it formed by the insertion of
pieces of other kinds of white or colored fabrics of a lighter or heavier
class (as of muslin or net) according to the effect desired to be
produced.
And further and secondly, the Invention consists in forming and
completing the said new or improved figured fabric by tambouring an
ornamental outline round the whole or parts of the spots, leaves, designs,
or patterns (woven or interlaced by hand insertion, as stated, with the
ground or foundation fabric, or by the substitution of pieces of other
fabrics) by a single row (or it might be two or more rows at some parts)
of tambour stitching or embroidering, which in some cases might also be
introduced into the interior parts of the pattern as well as round the
outline, where a forcible line and effect are desired to be produced, and
which tambouring may be executed or produced either with white or
colored thread by the modes and means heretofore employed for the
tambour embroidering of other fabrics.
This new or improved tambouring, applied as stated to the patterns
or designs of this class of figured fabrics (never before applied thereto,
and which forms the essential novelty of this Invention) adds much to
the general and forcible effect and beauty of the new patterns and

page_text: fabrics, and as it binds the edges of the threads or pieces of fabric
forming the pattern it also gives much greater wearing and washing
durability thereto than to this class of ornamental fabrics as heretofore
manufactured, especially over that and in contradistinction to the
appliqué" class of fabrics, in which the pattern is formed by attaching
another thickness of fabric and outlining it with a row of tambour
embroidering, which leaves all the central part of the pattern loose and
formed of double fabric, and thus liable to get out of shape and fray
away in washing and use.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Thomas Bowe Gibson in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 2nd May 1872.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, THOMAS
BOWE GIBSON, of the City of Glasgow, in the County of Lanark, North
Britain, Manufacturer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Fourth day of November, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-one, in the thirty-
fifth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors,
give and grant unto me, the said Thomas Bowe Gibson, Her special
licence that I, the said Thomas Bowe Gibson, my executors, adminis-
trators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Thomas Bowe Gibson,
my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with,
and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the
term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise,
and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland,
the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS
IN THE MANUFACTURE OF CERTAIN FIGURED FABRICS AND IN THE MODES AND
MEANS EMPLOYED THEREFOR," upon the condition (amongst others) that I,
the said Thomas Bowe Gibson, my exccutors or administrators, by an
instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and
seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said
Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause
the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar
months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.

page_text: NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Thomas Bowe Gibson, do hereby
declare the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same
is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement in writing, reference being had to the
accompanying Sheet of Drawings and to the letters and figures marked
thereon, that is to say :-
My said Invention has reference to a new or improved ornamental
figured fabric (A, B,) of the figured muslin, harness, and lappet woven
class (or it may be by partial hand insertions of nets or laces in the
figured part of the fabric) combined with tambour embroidering (C), all
such as used for transparent curtains, blinds, shawls, scarfs, dresses,
flounces, table covers, or "anti-macassars," and other purposes, or the
trimmings for these, and in which the light and transparent or semi-
transparent ground or foundation body fabrics B (on which the pattern A
is formed) are made of book muslin, tarlatan, leno, bobbin nets,
Nottingham and Brussels nets, and other such woven fabrics.
And the nature and novelty of my said Invention substantially con-
sists in working an outline or effect in one or more rows of tambour
stitching or embroidery C round the whole or part of the figure or
pattern A, formed as usual by weaving or part weaving and part "hand
insertions" on the light transparent muslin, leno, or lace net founda-
tion forming the fabric B, so as to give a new ornamental effect thereto,
and also fix the ends or the loops (a) of the threads forming the
pattern A, all which gives a better effect or appearance and greater
durability to the pattern (A, C,) and fabrics formed in this new or
improved manner, over all others of the ordinary woven and "appliqué’
class of fabrics heretofore manufactured and used for the said purposes,
the fabrics being either woven with double or single yarn, by preference
the former.
"
Referring to the Drawing, which represents the outline of a part or
figure of a design or pattern as formed in accordance with and illus-
trative of one modification of my said Invention sufficient to show the
nature and mode of performing the same, A represents the pattern part
woven by the harness or jacquard pattern mechanism into and while
weaving the plain foundation of book, leno, or wire net muslin fabric,
indicated at B, on the left-hand side of the red line 1 - 1. Below the
line 2 2 the pattern A is shown or indicated simply as usually woven,
but above this line the pattern part A is shown as outlined by a row of

page_text: tambour stitching or embroidery C forming the new or improved com-
bined pattern fabric at 3, the tambour embroidery C being indicated
separately on the right-hand side of the line 1.1 to show it more
clearly, although applied last.
The nature and mode of producing this new or improved fabric
consists substantially as follows:-First, in forming the spots, leaves,
design, or pattern A or main shaded parts thereof, as heretofore, of the
said class or classes of ornamental fabrics either by means of weaving
(or part weaving or part "hand insertion") upon or within the said light
ground or foundation fabric B so as to be interlaced therewith, and show
the effect in white, or colored, or partly colored work, either in the pattern
or ground B as a flushing pattern, seen more effectually on one side as
in this class of woven or ornamental fabrics and lappet goods, or as
woven into the foundation B, showing the pattern and effect equally on
both sides or surfaces as by harness and jacquard pattern weaving in
such manufactures; and in all which the effect is produced by the
differences in opaqueness and whiteness or depth of color of the said
pattern or design, by the number or thickness of the white or colored
threads woven or interlaced into the pattern part of the fabric (as at
a', a¹¹, a³, a³,) or in some cases part of the foundation B may be cut
away where the pattern A is required to be, and have it formed by the
insertion of pieces of other kinds of white or colored fabrics of a lighter
or heavier class (as of muslin or net) according to the effect desired to be
produced.
And further and secondly, the Invention consists in forming and
completing the said new or improved figured fabric by tambouring an
ornamental outline C round the whole or parts of the spots, leaves,
design, or pattern A (woven or interlaced by hand with the ground or
foundation fabric B or by the substitution or insertion of pieces of other
fabrics, as stated) by a single row (or it might be two or more rows at
some parts) of tambour stitching or embroidering C, which in some
cases might also be introduced into the interior parts of the pattern as
well as round the outline, where a forcible part or effect was desired to
be produced, and which tambouring C may be executed or produced
either with white or colored thread by the modes and means now or
heretofore employed for the tambour embroidering of other fabrics
worked by hand or motive power.
This now ox immmved tambouring Conplied no stated to the natterns.

page_text: or designs A of the said class of figured fabrics (and never before
applied thereto, and which forms the essential novelty of this Invention)
adds much to the general and forcible effect and beauty of these new
patterns and fabrics, as indicated complete at 3, and as the tambour
stitching C binds the ends a (or loops) of the threads A forming the
pattern or figure (or of the insertions or pieces of fabric forming the
pattern, when these are applied) it also gives much greater wearing and
washing durability to the pattern and fabric thus produced than to this
class of ornamental fabrics as heretofore manufactured, especially over
that and in contradistinction to the "appliqué " class of fabrics, in which
the pattern is formed by attaching another thickness of fabric and out-
lining it with a row of tambour embroidering, and which leaves the
centre parts of the pattern loose or bagged and formed of double fabric,
and thus liable to get out of shape and fray away in the washing and
use.
Having thus particularly described the nature of my said Invention,
and the manner in which the same is or may be performed, I have to
state that what I consider novel and original, and therefore claim as the
Invention secured to me by the herein-before in part recited Letters
Patent is, the manufacture of the said transparent figured fabrics for
curtains, "anti-macassars," and other purposes, by the new or improved
combination of weaving or with part weaving and part "hand insertion"
patterns and tambour embroidery, all substantially as herein described
and shown in the accompanying Drawings.
In witness whereof, I, the said Thomas Bowe Gibson, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, this First day of May, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-two.
Witness,
W. R. M. THOMSON,
Patent Agent,
20, Buchanan Street,
Glasgow.
T. B. GIBSON. (L.B.)