Improvements in Means or Apparatus for Use in Sewing, Stitching, or Over-seaming-Button or other Holes.
Year: 1893

page_text: Date of Application, 23rd May, 1893
Complete Specification Left, 11th Nov., 1893-Accepted, 3rd Mar., 1894
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Means or Apparatus for Use in Sewing, Stitching,
or Over-seaming-Button or other Holes.
A communication from abroad by JOHN REECE, of 458, Harrison Avenue, Boston,
in the State of Massachusetts, one of the United States of America, Sewing
Machine Manufacturer.
I ALFRED GEORGE BROOKES of 55 and 56 Chancery Lane in the County of
London, Chartered Patent Agent do hereby declare the nature of this invention to
be as follows:-
Earlier machines devised by my correspondent, and made subject of British
Patents No. 11962, Sept. 21, 1886; and of two applications for Patent with
provisional protection No. 22856, Dec. 13, 1892 and No. 6487 March 28, 1893 have
comprised a stitch-frame containing stitch forming mechanism, and a clamp-frame
containing a work-clamp, and said parts have had combined with them suitable
devices to not only actuate the stitch forming mechanism for stitching, but also for
relatively changing the positions of the stitch-frame and clamp-frame to ensure the
production of overedge stitches along the sides and end of a button-hole slit, and
some of said earlier machines have contained instrumentalities whereby the small
end of the button hole has been barred by stitches of greater length but at right
angles to the length of the button hole slit.
In some kinds of work manufacturers like a button-hole shewing both ends
rounded, and in this my present invention I have devised means whereby with stitch
forming mechanism much like that shewn in my former Patents I am enabled to
completely rotate the stitch-forming devices instead of as in said Patents rotate said
devices partially in one and then in a reverse direction.
By simply imparting to the stitch-forming mechanism a full rotation, a part
while stitching one, and a part while stitching the other end of the button-hole, the
depth stitches at and about the ends of the button-hole will lie in a curve, and this
I may do, but as a farther advance I have so constructed my improved machine
that while the small end of the button hole is being stitched, the parts instrumental
in changing the relative positions of the stitch-frame and clamp-frame operate so
that the outer line of the depth stitches at the small end of the button-hole will lie
in a line substantially at right angles to the length of the button-hole slit, and this
same result may if desired be produced at both ends of the button-hole by slight
change in shape of the cams controlling this relative movement.
In the machine herein to be described, when used for button-hole work, the
rotation of the stitch-forming mechanism is suspended while the straight sides of
the button-hole are being over stitched but when used for overstitching eyelet holes,
the relative change of position of the stitch-frame and clamp frame will be entirely
suspended and only the rotary motion retained during the stitching operation, the
relative change of position of said parts being, however, used to bring the work
clamp into and out of operative relation to the cutting mechanism which is made
automatic.
The machine to be herein described is automatic in all its movements after the
operator closes the work-clamp, that is the material is cut, the stitching is started,
and at the completion of the hole, of whatever form, the stitching is automatically
stopped.
The machine herein to be described and of my invention is I believe, the first
devised containing a needle-bar provided with an eye pointed needle located above

page_text: the work clamp, and having complemental stitch-forming devices located below the
said work-clamp, the said stitch-forming devices both below and above the work-
clamp being adapted to be fully rotated in one direction, the movement of rotation
being always in the same direction, said stitch-forming mechanism being adapted
for making, over-edge stitches.
It will be understood that if the stitch-frame should be anchored or held and the
main shaft started, the clamp frame would then be the movable member, and under
such conditions the stitching mechanism and other parts would be moved and would
cooperate in the cutting and stitching of a button-hole in just the same manner only
the stitching mechanism would not travel longitudinally.
My invention consists in the use in a machine for making overedge stitches in the
production of button and other holes, of a clamp frame; a work-clamp mounted
thereon; a stitch frame; stitch forming mechanism including a needle-bar located
wholly above the clamp-frame and provided with an eye pointed needle, and com-
plemental stitch-forming mechanism located below said clamp frame, and devices to
actuate the said stitch-forming mechanism for the production of over-edge stitches
and to rotate the said stitch-forming mechanism in one direction, rotation after
rotation, as will be described.
Also in the use in a machine for making overedge stitches in the production of
button and other holes, of a clamp-frame; a work clamp; a stitch-frame; stitch-
forming mechanism including a needle-bar located wholly above the clamp frame
and provided with an eye-pointed needle; and complemental stitch-forming
mechanism located below said clamp frame; devices to actuate the said stitch-
forming mechanism for the production of stitches and to rotate the said stitch-
forming mechanism in one direction rotation after rotation, and devices to change
relatively the positions of the stitch-frame and clamp frame to ensure the production
of overedge stitches along the sides and about the end of a button-hole as will be
described.
Also, in the use in a machine for making overedge stitches in the. production of
button and other holes, of a clamp frame; a work-clamp; a stitch-frame; stitch-
forming mechanism including a needle-bar located wholly above the clamp frame
and provided with an eye-pointed needle, and complemental stitch-forming
mechanism located below said clamp frame, devices to actuate the said stitch-
forming mechanism for the production of stitches and to rotate the said stitch-
forming mechanism in one direction rotation after rotation, devices to change
relatively the positions of the stitch-frame and clamp frame to ensure the
production of overedge stitches along the sides and about the end of a button-hole,
and a button-hole cutter and means to operate the same intermittingly as will be
described.
Also the use in a sewing machine having a casing a rotatable block therein, and
a contained spherical bearing, of a needle-bar adapted to be reciprocated in said
bearing, and devices to adjust said block in said casing to determine the length of
the depth stitch as will be described.
Also, the use with a casing containing a hollow needle bar carrying an eye
pointed needle and located above the work; of a hollow rod or bar located below
the work and in the same vertical plane, said rod having an attached block, and an
under thread carrier, and gearing to rotate in unison but intermittingly the casing
containing the needle-bar, and the block referred to and the under-thread carrier
rotation after rotation in the same direction as will be described.
Also the use in a button hole sewing machine of a race-way, a needle segment
and connected eye-pointed thread carrier; a hollow rod contained and vertically
movable in said frame aud provided with slotted slide plate, and the throat plate
also movable with the said frame, combined with an arm; a flyer through which
the stay cord is led, and a hollow stud forming the centre of rotation of the flyer
and about which the cord rotates, the under thread being led through said hollow
stud and the wound mass of stay cord on its way into and through the said hollow
rod, to operate substantially as will be described.

page_text: Also, in a sewing machine the following instrumentalities, viz. ;-A clamp frame;
a work clamp; a stitch frame; stitch forming mechanism therein; devices to
rotate the stitch forming devices in the same direction a semi rotation at each end
of the button-hole, and devices to change the relative positions of the stitch-frame
and clamp-frame to ensure not only the production of overedge stitches along the
sides and outer end of the button-hole, but also to impart a slight movement to and
fro in the direction of the length of the button hole while the stitch-forming
mechanism is being given a semi-rotation at the end of the button-hole for the
purpose set forth.
The machine in many of its parts is substantially the same as that mentioned in
the Provisional Specification, application for British Patent No. 6487, March 28,
1893, so many of said parts need herein be but briefly described.
The stitch frame is connected to a curb or base portion having at its centre an
upwardly extended hollow hub, which serves as a bearing for a cam device, the
cam device carrying a cam (having suitable cam grooves) which operates upon a
toe of a cutter lever having a cutter.
The cam device has its periphery provided with a series of worm teeth,
constituting a worm gear, which is rotated by a worm, on an actuating shaft
provided with a normally loose pulley rotated continuously, carrying one-half of a
clutch, the other half being a projection on a crank or arm fast upon the said shaft
which is provided with a ratchet wheel moved intermittingly by a pawl connected
with a pawl-carrier deriving its motion from a suitable link which derives its
motion from an eccentric, fast upon the shaft upon which is mounted loosely 'the
main belt wheel.
The constantly moving pulley when coupled to the shaft rotates the worm and
the worm-wheel, it being desired at such time to have the machine operate at its
maximum speed, as when the relative change of position of the parts are being
effected to bring the work held by the cloth clamp into operative position with
relation to the cutting mechanism. This pulley is actuated by an extension of a
three-armed pivoted lever connected by a link with a block having a hub about
which the said pulley rotates.
.
The last named lever has a spring and a hole to receive a link connected to one
arm of another three armed device which controls the clutch dog cooperating with
the main belt pulley, to automatically stop the stitching.
The clamp-frame is located between the parts of the stitch-frame anchored so
that in the relative movements of the stitch-forming mechanism with relation to
the clamp-frame and work clamp, the clamp-frame and clamp remain stationary,
while the stitch forming mechanism travels in the direction of the length of the
button hole, the cam device is provided with a cam groove to receive a stud of a
lever upon a vertical shaft having an arm provided with a suitable upright pin or
stud on which is loosely mounted a block which enters a groove of the clamp frame
thereby giving the stitch mechanism a suitable movement to carry the stitching
about the enlarged or eye-end of the button-hole, but to make that end of the
button-hole without an enlarged eye the employment of the groove would be
unnecessary, or if used it would be a perfect circle.
The said actuating shaft and its attached worm will be rotated intermittingly
during the stitching operation, the machine then running at its slowest speed, and
the change from continuous to intermittent motion of the shaft being effected..
The main shaft has a compound eccentric to actuate a link jointed to the rear
end of a needle-bar actuating lever joined to a needle bar in order to reciprocate
the same.
The clamp-frame has mounted upon it a work clamp consisting of plates, and
blocks to receive levers having feet, said levers having depending notched legs
engaged by spring arms carried by other arms of a rock shaft under the control of
a clamping lever which moves said arm in a direction to effect the closing of the
work-clamp upon the work, and releasing the slide bar, so that a lever is turned by
a spring and the coupling of the continuously rotating pulley with the shaft effected

page_text: the movement at high speed continuing until the button hole has been cut and the
material put into stitching position, when the further operations provided for are
caused to take place.
The needle-bar below its connection with the lever for reciprocating it is of other
shape than round, and slides in a circular bearing mounted in a longitudinally
movable block contained within the casing by a plate attached to the casing.
The casing has two screws which by being turned in opposite directions, enable
the block carrying the circular bearing to be moved longitudinally in the casing in
order to locate the needle bar more or less at one side of the centre of rotation of
the casing in order that the depth stitch may be of greater or less length.
The eye pointed needle may be connected with the lower end of the needle-bar in
any usual or suitable manner.
The casing has a gear which is engaged by an intermediate gear, actuated by a
larger gear on a shaft borne vertically on the stitch frame.
This shaft at its lower end has a toothed gear engaging an intermediate gear in
turn engaging a gear the hub of which enters a bearing in an extension of the
casing, said gear and bub being fixed relatively to the block carrying the
complemental stitch forming mechanism and its actuating devices.
The block has at its upper end a suitable raceway for the segment carrying the
under-thread-carrying needle.
The raceway has adjustably mounted upon it a needle-throat having
a slot
through which passes the under thread carrier and the eye-pointed needle carrying
the upper thread.
The segmental block referred to derives its motion from a link jointed to the
upper end of a lever with a suitable roller or other stud which enters a cam groove
in a cam block attached to a vertically reciprocating rod suitably jointed after the
manner of the needle bar with a lever deriving its movement from a vertically
reciprocating rod operated by suitable devices.
Cooperating with the under-thread-carrier is a looper which takes the loop of
upper-needle thread, holds and spreads the same below the throat in order that the
under-thread-carrier with its thread may pass up through the loop of upper-needle
thread held by the looper, the loop of the under-thread-carrier being in turn
entered above the material by the needle in its next descent.
The stitch frame is the same as in Patent No. 11962 but herein the devices for
actuating the looper are different ;-The looper is carried by an elbow shaped lever,
the hub of which is mounted upon a stud screw fastened to a portion of the block
by a suitable nut, the said stud screw being bored out centrally to receive a spring,
the outer end of which acts against the interior of the hub of the looper-carrying
lever, so that the said looper-carrying lever in addition to its movement about the
said stud as a centre, may also slide on the said stud in order that the looper may
be moved to one side to let it, when moved in its backward direction, pass without
striking and deflecting the under-thread carrier.
The lower end of the looper-carrying lever is provided with a roller or other stud
which enters a cam groove made, in this instance, in the same slide block containing
the groove for moving the lever, linked to the segmental block.
The said slide block has also a cam projection which acts upon an adjustable
projection carried by a lever mounted upon a stud screw, said lever at its upper end
having preferably an adjustable screw or projection to act against the end of the
hub of the looper-carrying-lever to thus push upon the said hub in opposition to
the said spring when the looper carrying lever is to slide longitudinally on the said
stud in the production of the stitch. The vertical reciprocating bar rotates with
the block and is hollow.
To properly deliver the under-thread and the usual cord-thread I mount cord
thread or stay-cord spool on a hollow journal so that the under-thread is led
through the journal about which the stay cord spool rotates, and through the hollow
bar out through a hole therein, through a guide-eye and down about a suitable
tension device up through a hole in the block through a guide-eye carried by the

page_text: mecate-segment, thence through a second note in said needle segment and into the
eye of the under-thread-carrier.
The stay-cord is led off through an eye in a flyer like frame thence through a
suitable tension device and through an eye in an arm extended from and rotating
with the hollow vertical reciprocating rod, the stay cord being led from the said.
eye also through this hollow rod and out through the eye thence up through a guide
across behind the lever and up through a hole in the block and thence through a
hole in the side of the throat and up to the material through the same slot in the
throat in which the needle and under-thread-carrier work.
As the rod last mentioned is rotated, the arm acting on the stay cord, rotates the
flyer and spool with it; both of which turn freely about the hollow spindle, and as
the machine is operated to effect the relative change of position of the stitch
forming devices, including the throat, with relation to the clamp-frame, the strain
upon the stay cord is sufficient to rotate the spool in the flyer to give off the
required amount of stay cord.
The upper needle thread will in practice be taken from a suitable spool or bobbin
and led thence through a thread guide, around a suitable tension device through a
guide-eye, thence through an eye in the end of the take-up lever and then into a
hole made longitudinally through the tubular needle-bar from its upper to its
lower end, the needle-thread after passing out through the lower end of the needle
bar being threaded through the usual eye of the eye pointed needle.
1 t
The upper thread take-up may be of any usual or suitable construction.
In operation, the parts being in position with the clamp open and the cutter
elevated, the operator will turn the lever which here serves for the corresponding
lever in said former Patent No. 11962, to the left and in so doing will close the
clamp, and the lever in its movement as described will release the slide-bar, so by
the intervening parts push the continuously running pulley to effect the engagement
of the clutch parts, to rotate the shaft rapidly and continuously, thus rotating
rapidly the cam device until the cam projection, thereon strikes and depresses the
cutter to cut the material, the rapid movement of the cam device being continued
until the relative change of position referred to has been sufficient to bring the
small end of the button-hole in correct position under the stitch forming mechanism,
at which instant the continuously rotating clutch pulley is slid in the opposite
direction on or with relation to the shaft by or through the devices for controlling
the clutch cooperating with the main belt-pulley, the said main belt-pulley at that
time being clutched upon the shaft, thus starting in motion the connecting rod, and,
through the pawl described, imparting intermitting rotation to the said shaft and
cum device at a slower speed.
The shaft having the large gears at its upper and lower ends, is rotated intor-
mittingly by or through a pawl having a projection entering a groove having
suitable pockets (say four) in a plate fast on it engaged one after the other by the
said pawl to give to the said shaft a quarter turn, the shaft being looked or held
frictionally in the position where it is left by the pawl by a suitable locking
device.
The upper side of the cam device has a single cam groove receiving a roller or
other stud connected to the clamp-frame.
In this present instance of my invention the said stud connected with the clamp-
frame and running in the groove at the upper side of the cam device it results that
the clamp frame being held stationary, in moving the stitch-frame so that it first
slides from the small end of the button-hole along one side thereof to the commence-
ment of the eyelet end, when the stitch frame, including the throat in this instance,
is moved laterally, to carry the stitch-forming devices in the path of the eye of
the button hole, and at the same time the stitch-forming mechanism has imparted
to it a half turn, such movement of the stitch-forming mechanisin ending about
as the eye is completed, after which the stitch-frame is again moved with its
throat toward the centre line of the button hole, and thence along the second
straight side thereof, until the small end of the button hole has been reached,

page_text: when the longitudinal movement in that direction ceases and the rotation of the
stitch forming mechanism in the same direction as before is again taken up, but
during this second semi-rotation of the stitch-forming mechanism, the cam groove
in the upper side of the cam device is of such shape as to slightly reverse the
movement of the stitch frame so that for the first half of the second semi-
rotation of the stitch-forming mechanism, the stitch-frame is moved slightly
toward the eyelet end of the button-hole, and during the remainder of the said
semi-rotation of the stitch-frame is again moved in a direction away from the
eyelet end of the button hole, the stitching being stopped at the completion of
the second semi-rotation of the stitch-forming mechanism, but the movement of
the cam device is continued but at the highest speed of the actuating shaft, the
intermitting motion being at that time thrown out and the continuous motion
substituted for it until the stitch-forming mechanism and the cutting mechanism
occupy their normal or starting positions with the cutting mechanism elevated, and
the clamp opened.
As a result of the semi-circular movement of the stitch-forming mechanism and
the two short reciprocations of the stitch-frame at the same time, the small end of
the button-hole is finished and left with its depth stitches in a straight line
substantially at right angles to the length of the button-hole, rather than in a
curved line as would be the result if the two short reciprocations of the stitch frame
described were omitted.
Dated the 20th day of May 1893
WM. BROOKES & SON,
55 & 56, Chancery Lane, London, Agents for the Applicant.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Means or Apparatus for Use in Sewing, Stitching,
or Over-seaming Button or other Holes.
A communication from JOHN REECE, of 458, Harrison Avenue, Boston, in the
State of Massachusetts, one of the United States of America, Sewing Machine
Manufacturer.
I, ALFRED GEORGE BROOKES of 55 and 56 Chancery Lane, in the County of
London, Chartered Patent Agent do hereby declare the nature of this invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described
and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
Earlier machines devised by my correspondent the said John Reece and made
subject of Letters Patent Nos. 11962 Sept. 21st 1886 and 22856 December 13th
1892 and of an application for Patent No. 6487 dated March 28th 1893 have
comprised a stitch-frame containing stitch-forming mechanism, and a clamp-frame
containing a work-clamp and said parts have had combined with them suitable
devices to not only actuate the stitch-forming mechanism for stitching, but also for
relatively changing the positions of the stitch-frame and clamp-frame to insure the
production of over-edge stitches along the sides and end of a button-hole slit, and
some of said earlier machines have contained instrumentalities whereby the small
end of the button-hole has been barred by stitches of greater length but at right
angles to the length of the button-hole slit.
In some kinds of work manufacturers like a button-hole showing both ends
rounded, and in this present invention my correspondent has devised means
whereby with stitch forming mechanism much like that shown in the former
Patents he is enabled to completely rotate the stitch-forming devices instead of
as in said Patents rotate said devices partially in one and then in a reverse
.direction.
By simply imparting to the stitch-forming mechanism a full rotation, a part

page_text: while stitching one, and a part while stitching the other end of the button-hole,
the depth-stitches at and about the ends of the button-hole will lie in a curve,
and this he may do, but as a further advance he has so constructed the improved
machine that while the small end of the button-hole is being stitched, the parts
instrumental in changing the relative positions of the stitch-frame, and clamp-
frame operate so that the outer line of the depth stitches at the small end of the
button-hole will lie in a line substantially at right angles to the length of the
button-hole slit, and this same result may if desired be produced at both ends of the
button-hole by slight change in shape of the cams controlling this relative movement..
In the machine herein to be described, when used for button-hole work, the
rotation of the stitch-forming mechanism is suspended while the straight sides of
the button-hole are being overstitched, but when used for overstitching eyelet.
holes, the relative change of position of the stitch-frane and clamp-frame will
be entirely suspended and only the rotary motion retained during the stitching:
operation, the relative change of position of said parts being, however, used to
bring the work-clamp into and out of operative relation to the cutting mechanism
which is made automatic.
The machine herein to be described is automatic in all its movements after
the operator closes the work-clamp, that is, the material is cut, the stitching is.
started, and at the completion of the hole of whatever form, the stitching is.
automatically stopped.
The machine herein to be described contains a needle-bar provided with an eye-
pointed needle located above the work-clamp, and having complemental stitch-
forming devices located below the said work-clamp, the said stitch-forming devices.
both below and above the work-clamp being adapted to be fully rotated in one
direction, the movement of rotation being always in the same direction, said
stitch-forming mechanism being adapted for making over-edge stitches.
It will be understood that if the stitch-frame should be anchored or held and the
main shaft started, the clamp-frame would then be the moveable member, and
under such conditions the stitching mechanism and other parts would be moved and
would co-operate in the cutting and stitching of a button hole in just the same
manner only the stitching mechanism would not travel longitudinally.
The invention consists in the use in a machine for making overedge stitches in
the production of button and other holes, of a clamp-frame; a work-clamp mounted
thereon; a stitch frame; stitch-forming mechanism including a needle-bar located
wholly above the clamp-frame and provided with an eye-pointed needle, and com--
plemental stitch-forming mechanism located below said clamp-frame, and devices to
actuate the said stitch-forming mechanism for the production of over-edge stitches
and to rotate the said stitch-forming mechanism in one direction rotation after
rotation, as will be described.
Also, in the use in a machine for making over edge stitches in the production of
button and other holes, of a clamp-frame; a work-clamp; a stitch-frame; stitch-
forming mechanism including a needle-bar located wholly above the clamp frame
and provided with an eye-pointed needle; and complemental stitch-forming
mechanism located below said clamp-frame; devices to actuate the said stitch-
forming mechanism for the production of stitches and to rotate the said stitch.
forming mechanism in one direction rotation after rotation, and devices to change
relatively the positions of the stitch-frame and clamp-frame to ensure the pro-
duction of overedge stitches along the sides and about the end of a button-hole as
will be described.
Also, in the use in a machine for making overedge stitches in the production of
button and other holes, of a clamp-frame; a work-clamp; a stitch-frame; stitch--
forming mechanism including a needle-bar located wholly above the clamp-frame
and provided with an eye-pointed needle, and complemental stitch-forming
mechanism located below said clamp-frame, devices to actuate the said stitch-
forming mechanism for the production of stitches and to rotate the said stitch-
forming mechanism in one direction rotation after rotation, devices to change.

page_text: relatively the positions of the stitch-frame and clamp-frame to ensure the pro-
duction of overedge stitches, along the sides and about the end of a button hole,
and a button hole cutter and means to operate the same intermittingly as will be
described.
:
. Also, the use in a sewing machine having a casing, a longitudinally movable
block therein, and its contained circular bearing, of a needle-bar adapted to be
reciprocated in said bearing, and devices to adjust said block in said casing to
determine the length of the depth stitch as will be described.
Also, the use with a casing containing a hollow needle-bar carrying an eye-
pointed needle and located above the work; of a hollow rod or har located below
the work and in the same vertical plane, said rod having an attached block, and an
under thread carrier, and gearing to rotate in unison but intermittingly the casing
containing the needle-bar, and the block referred to and the under-thread carrier
rotation after. rotation in the same direction as will be described. .
.
Also, the use in a button-hole sewing machine of a raceway, a needle segment
and connected eye-pointed thread carrier; a hollow rod contained, and vertically
moveable in a suitable frame provided with a race way and provided with slotted
slide plate, and the throat plate also moveable with the said frame, combined with
an arm; a flyer through which the stay cord is led, and a hollow stud forming the
centre of rotation of the flyer and about which the cord rotates, the under thread.
being led through said hollow stud and the wound mass of stay cord on its way
into and through the said hollow rod, to operate, substantially as will be described.
Also, in a sewing machine the following instrumentalities riz. A clamp frame; "a"
work-clamp a stitch frame; stitch-forming mechanism therein; devices to rotate
the stitch forming devices in the same direction a semi rotation at each end of the
button-hole, and devices to change the relative positions of the stitch-frame and
clamp-frame to ensure not only the production of overedge stitches along the sides
and. outer end of the button-hole, but also to impart a slight movement to and fro
in the direction of the length of the button-hole while the stitch-forming
mechanism is being given a semi, rotation at the end of the button-hole for the
purpose set forth.
Figure 1 is a right-hand side elevation, partially broken out, of a machine
embodying the invention the parts being in the condition for clamping the work..
Fig. 2 a left hand side elevation also partially broken out.
Fig. 3, a section below the line x, Fig. 2.
Eig. 4 an enlarged view partially in section from the front of the machine, the
parts shewn being below the line. Fig. 1 and in the line in Fig. 2.
Fig. 5 an enlarged plan view of the parts below the clamp-frame, the under
thread carrier and looper being omitted.
Fig. 6 is a rear side view of the complemental stitch-forming mechanism shown
in Fig. 5, the same being however removed from its bearings.
Fig. 7 is a section on the line. Fig. 6.
Fig. 8 a longitudinal section of the needle-bar and some of its surrounding parts.
Fig. 9, a section in the line a, Fig. 8..
Eig. 10 a detail of one of the upper clamp members and its attached leg.
Eig. 11 a detail of the three-armed lever F and clutch pulley and dog.
The machine to be herein described in many of its parts is substantially the
same as that shewn in the Specification in pursuance of an application for Letters
Patent No. 6487 dated March 28 1893 so that many of said parts need herein be
but briefly described.
Referring to the drawings, a represents the upper part of the stitch-frame, the same
being connected to a curb, or base portion at having at its centre an upwardly
extended. hollow hub 300 sec Fig. 5 which serves as a bearing for a cam device
marked j, which differs however, slightly in the shape of its cam grooves, as will.
be described hereinafter, from the like-designated cam device in the Patent referred
to, the said cam device carrying a cam which in practice operates upon a toe 58
of a cutter lever G having a cutter. G. The cam device has its periphery

page_text: provided with a series of worm teeth, thus constituting at the edge of the cam
device a worm gear, which latter is engaged and rotated by a worm to see dotted
lines Fig. 5, on an actuating shaft 6", said actuating shaft being provided at one
end with a normally loose pulley 6 which is rotated continuously, said pulley
carrying one-half of a suitable clutch the other half being a projection 618 on
a crank or arm as 67 fast upon the said actuating shaft 6". The shaft 6, at its
opposite end, is provided with a ratchet wheel a which is moved intermittingly
by a suitable pawl a18 connected with a pawl-carrier 6 deriving its motion of
reciprocation from a suitable link 6" said link in practice deriving its motion from
a suitable eccentric 60, fast upon the shaft a' upon which in practice is mounted
loosely the main belt wheel 10 see Fig. 3, said belt wheel being designated in the
said Specification by like letter. Herein the belt wheel will be coupled and
uncoupled from the shaft a² exactly as provided for in the said Specification the
controlling devices for the belt wheel having been herein omitted because fully
shewn and described in that Specification.
The constantly moving pulley when coupled to the shaft 6 rotates the worm
and the worm wheel referred to continuously, it being desired at such time to have
the machine operate at its maximum speed, as when the relative changes of
position of the parts are being effected to bring the work held by the cloth clamp
into operative position with relation to the cutting mechanism, said cutting
mechanism, as herein represented, being the same in all its parts as in the
Specification referred to. This pulley is put into and out of clutch at the
proper time by or through an extension 6" of a three-armed lever 6 pivotted at b
said lever being connected by a link 6 with a block having a hub about which
the said pulley rotates. The lever 6 has connected to it at one end a spring c³,
and the other end of the lever is provided with a hole to receive a link c¹³ connected
in practice to one arm of a three-armed lever or device F, see Fig. 11, which
controls the clutch dog co-operating with the main belt pulley fas
provided for in said Specification, to automatically stop the stitching action of the
stitch forming mechanism.
The clamp frame' a' is located between the parts a and a of the stitch frame,
said clamp frame in this instance of the invention being anchored at 301, so that in
the relative movements of the stitch-forming mechanism with relation to the clamp
frame and work clamp. the clamp frame and clamp remain stationary, while the
stitch forming mechanism travels in the direction of the length of the button-hole;
and in this present invention the cam device has been provided at its underside with
a cam groove 7 see dotted lines Fig. 5, to receive a roller or other stud of a
lever fast upon a vertical shaft having an arm I provided with a suitable upright
pin or stud on which is loosely mounted a block which enters a longitudinal
groove at the rear end of the clamp-frame, such groove and devices as provided for
in the said Specification giving the stitch-forming mechanism a suitable movement
to carry the stitching about the enlarged or eye-end of the button-hole, but it will
be obvious that should it be desired to make that end of the button-hole without an
enlarged eye, the employment of the groove would be unnecessary, or if used, it
would be a perfect circle. It will be understood that if the stitch frame should::be
anchored or held and the main shaft started, the clamp frame would then be the
movable member, and under such conditions the stitching mechanism and other
parts would be moved and would co-operate in the cutting and stitching of a button-
hole in just the same manner only the stitching mechanism would not travel
longitudinally. The shaft and.its attached worm will be rotated intermittingly
during the stitching operation, the machine then running at its slowest speed, and
the change from continuous to intermittent motion of the shaft 6" will herein.be
effected as provided for and in the time and order described in the said
Specification.
The shaft a will in practice be provided with a suitable compound eccentric to
actuate a link a jointed to the rear end of a needle-bar actuating lever c¹ joined in

page_text: suitable manner to a needle-bar in order to reciprocate the same, the said needle-
bar at its upper end having a ball-bearing, see Fig. 8. all in. usual manner, but the
shape of the lower part of the needle-bar and its bearings have been altered as I
will describe later.
The clamp-frame a' has mounted upon it, as provided for in the said Specification
a work clamp, composed of upper and lower members, said work clamp consisting
essentially of plates m upon which are erected blocks to receive levers,m* having
feet m', said levers having depending notched legs 26, sec Fig. 10, which are
engaged by spring arms 29* carried by arms 29 of a rock shaft 30 under the
control of a clamping lever marked t, t, said clamping lever, when turned over to
the left viewing Fig. 2 moving the arms 29 in a direction to effect the closing of
the work-clamp upon the work, such movement of the lever resulting in releasing the
slide-bar c, so that the lever may be turned by spring and effect the coupling
of the continuously rotating pulley with the shaft 6, the movement of the
shaft at high speed continuing until the button-hole has been cut and the
material put into stitching position, when as provided for in the said Specification,
the continuously rotating clutch is disconnected from the said actuating shaft and.
the ratchet wheel a is made to assume control of and rotate the actuating shaft
intermittingly during the stitching operation.
Letters Patent No. 11962 dated September 21 1886 granted to my correspondent
shews a lever substantially like the lever t, t but herein the shape of the lever is
slightly changed to co-operate with the precise slide-bar which controls the
lever
.
The parts herein before referred to and designated by letter, with the exceptions
stated as to the grooves in the cam device. and the shape of the needle-bar are
substantially as in the Specification No. 6487 referred to, and herein they will be
actuated as in the said Application.
I will now more particularly describe the apparatus to be added, to the form of
machine represented in said Specification No. 6487 in order to effect, the novel
operations included within the scope of this invention. That portion of the
needle-bar below its connection with the lever for reciprocating it is square or
made of some other shape than round, and is fitted to slide in a circular bearing 32
shown in Figs. 8 and 9, said bearing being mounted in a longitudinally moveable
block 33 retained within the casing 34 by a plate 35 attached to the casing by
screws 36. The casing has two like screws 37, 38, see Figs. 1 and 8 which by
being turned in opposite directions enable, the block carrying the circular bearing
to be moved longitudinally in the casing in order to locate the needle-bar more or
less at one side of the centre of rotation of the casing in order that the depth stitch
may be of greater or less length. The eye pointed needle 1x may be connected
with the lower end of the needle-bar in any usual or suitable manner. The casing 3+
has a gear 39 which is engaged by an intermediate gear, 40, actuated by a gear 41
of twice its diameter fast upon a shaft 42 having suitable bearings in the stitch-
frame to keep it in vertical position. This shaft 42 at its lower end has attached
to it, see Figs. 1 and 2, a toothed gear 43 of the same diameter as. the toothed
gear 41, the gear 43 engaging an intermediate gear 44, the said intermediate gear.
in turn engaging a gear 45, the hub of which enters a bearing 46 in an extension 47
of the casing a, said gear and hub being fixed on or with relation to the block 48
carrying the complemental stitch-forming mechanism and its actuating devices to
be described. The block 48 has at its upper end a suitable race-way 49 for the
segment 50 carrying the under thread carrying needle 51. The race-way. 49 has
adjustably mounted upon it a needle throat 52 having a slot through which passes
the under thread carrier and also down through which passes the eye-pointed
needle carrying the upper thread.
The segmental block 50 referred to derives its motion from a link 53 jointed to
the
upper end of a lever 54 having its fulcrum at 55 on the block 48, said lever,
see Fig. 6, having a suitable roller or other stud 56 which enters a cam, groove. 57

page_text: in a cam block 58 attached to a vertically reciprocating rod 59 suitably jointed
after the manner of the needle bar with a lever 60 pivotted at 61 upon a hanger 62
depending from the casing a', said lever deriving its movenrent from a vertically
reciprocating rod f, which rod in this present instance of the invention is just the
same as and operated in like manner and by like devices as provided for in the said
Specification No. 6487.
Co-operating with the under-thread-carrier is a looper 63 which takes the loop
of upper-needle thread 64, holds and spreads the same below the throat 52 in order
that the under-thread-carrier 51 with its thread 65 may pass up through the loop
of upper-needle thread held by the looper, the loop of the under thread carrier
being in turn entered above the material by the needle 1x in its next descent.
The stitch frame a is the same as in said Letters Patent No. 11962 dated
September 21 1886 but herein the devices for actuating the looper are entirely
different, as for instance, the looper is carried by an elbow shaped lever 66 the hub
of which is mounted upon a stud screw 67, see Fig. 7, fastened to a portion of the
block 48 by a suitable nut 68, the said stud screw being bored out centrally to
receive a spring, the outer end of which acts against the interior of the hub of the
loop-carrying lever 66, so that the said looper carrying lever in addition to its
movement about the said stud as a centre, may also slide on the said stud in order
that the looper may be moved to one side to let it, when moved in its backward
direction, pass without striking and deflecting the under thread carrier.
The lower end of the looper-carrying lever is provided with a roller or other
stud 69 which enters a cam groove 70 made, in this instance, in the same slide
block containing the groove for moving the lever 54. The slide block 58 referred
to has also a cam projection 71 which, in the reciprocations of the slide block, acts
upon an adjustable projection 72 carried by a lever 73 mounted upon a stud screw 74,
said lever at its upper end having preferably an adjustable screw or projection 75
to act against the end of the hub of the looper-carrying-lever to thus push upon
the said hub in opposition to the said spring when the looper-carrying lever is to
slide longitudinally on the said stud in the production of the stitch. The bar 59
rotates, it will be understood, with the block 48 and is hollow, as best represented
in Fig. 7.
My correspondent has experienced very considerable difficulty in devising devices
for properly delivering the under-thread 65 and the usual cord thread 76, but
solved that problem by mounting the cord-thread or stay-cord spool on a hollow
journal 77 so that the under-thread 65 might be led through the journal about:
which the stay cord spool rotated, and thence through the hollow bar 59 and out
through a hole 78 therein, as shewn in Figs. 4 and 7, thence through a guide-eye 79
and down about a suitable tension device 80, thence up through a hole 81 in the
block through a guide eye 82 carried by the needle segment, and thence through a
second hole in said needle segment and into the eye of the under-thread-carrier.
The stay cord 76 is led off, see Fig. 4, through an eye in a flier-like frame 83,
thence through a suitable tension device 84 and through an eye 85 in an arm 86.
extended from and rotating with the rod 59, the stay cord being led from the said
eye also through the hollow rod 59 and out through the eye 87, see Figs. 6 and 7,
thence up through a guide 88 across behind the lever 54 and up through a hole 89
in the block and thence through a hole 90 in the side of the throat and up to the
material through the same slot in the throat in which the needle and under thread
carrier work. As the rod 59 is rotated, the arm 86 acting on the stay cord, rotates
the flier and spool with it, both of which turn freely about the hollow spindle 77
and as the machine is operated to effect the relative change of position of the
stitch-forming devices, including the throat, with relation to the clamp-frame, the
strain upon the stay cord, is sufficient to rotate the spool in the flier to give off
the required amount of stay cord.
The upper needle thread will in practice be taken from a suitable spool or
bobbin 91 and led thence through a thread guide 92 see Fig. 2, around a suitable

page_text: tension device 93 through a guide eye 94 thence through an eye in the end of the
take up lever 96, and then into a hole made longitudinally through the needle bar
from its upper to its lower end, the tubular construction of needle-bar being shewn
in Fig. 8 the needle-thread after passing out through the lower end of the needle-
bar being threaded through the usual eye of the eye-pointed needle. The upper
thread take-up may be of any usual or suitable construction, the take-up herein
shewn being substantially the same as that illustrated in the said Specification
.No. 6487.
In operation, the parts being in the position Figs. and 2, with the clamp open
and the cutter elevated, the operator will turn the lever t, t, to the left and in so
doing will, through the arms 29 and their attached spring fingers, 29x, see Fig. 3,
close the clamp, and the lever t, t, in its movement as described will release the
slide bar so that the lever will be moved in the direction of the arrow 99
shewn in Figs. 2 and 5, by the spring and will through the link. " push the
continuously running pulley in the direction of the arrow 100 see Fig. 5 to
effect the engagement of the clutch parts * and 6 to thus rotate the shaft 638
rapidly and continuously, thus rotating rapidly the cam device until the cam
projection thereon strikes and depresses the cutter G2 to cut the material, the
rapid movement of the cam device being continued until the relative change of
position referred to has been sufficient to bring the small end of the button-hole in
correct position under the stitch forming mechanism, at which instant the
continuously rotating clutch pulley 6 is slid in the opposite direction on or with
relation to the shaft by or through the devices for controlling the clutch
co-operating with the main belt-pulley 10, the said main belt-pulley at that time
being clutched upon the shaft a thus starting in motion the connecting rod and,
through the pawl al described, imparting intermitting rotation to the said shaft
and cam device j at a slower speed, such slow speed prevailing through the stitching
operation. The shaft 42 having the large gears 41 and 43 at its upper and lower
ends, is rotated intermittingly by or through a pawl 101 (kept to its work by the
spring 101*) having a projection 102 shewn by dotted lines Fig. 5, said projection
entering a groove 103 having suitable pockets, 104, said groove and pockets being
in a plate 105 fast on the said shaft, there being, in this instance, four such pockets
which are engaged one after the other by the said pawl so as to give to the said
shaft a quarter turn, the shaft being locked or held frictionally in the position
where it is left by the pawl by or through a suitable locking device shewn in Fig. 5,
as a spring 106 held in place by a set screw 107. The pawl is pivotally attached
to one end of a lever 108 having its fulcrum at 109, said lever having a roll 110
which enters a cam groove 112 see dotted lines Fig. 5, at the under-side of the cam
device j.
The upper side of the cam device ; has a single cam groove 113 represented by
full lines except where it passes under the lever Fig. 5, said groove receiving a
roller or other stud f* connected to the clamp-frame, said stud being common to
the said Specification No. 6487 referred to. In this present instance of the
invention the stud connected with the clamp frame and running in the groove 113
at the upper side of the cam device results, the clamp-frame being held
stationary, in moving the stitch-frame so that it first slides from the small end of
the button-hole along one side thereof to the commencement of the eyelet end,
when the stitch-frame, including the throat in this instance, is moved lateraly as
in said Specification No. 6487 referred to, to carry the stitch-forming devices in the
path of the eye of the button-hole, and at the same time the stitch-forming
mechanism has imparted to it a half-turn, such movement of the stitch-
forming mechanism ending about as the eye is completed, after which the stitch
frame is again moved with its throat toward the centre line of the button-hole, and
thence along the second straight side thereof, until the small end of the button-
hole has been reached, when the longitudinal movement in that direction ceases and
the rotation of the stitch-forming mechanism in the same direction as before is

page_text: again taken up, but during this second semi-rotation of the stitch-forming mechanism,
the can groove in the upper side of the cam device is of such shape at 113*, as to
slightly reverse the movement of the stitch frame, so that for the first half of the
second semi-rotation of the stitch forming mechanism, the stitch frame is moved
slightly toward the eyelet end of the button-hole, and during the remainder of the
said semi-rotation the stitch frame is again moved in a direction away from
the eyelet end of the button-hole, the stitching being stopped at the completion of
the second semi-rotation of the stitch-forming mechanism, but the movement of the
cam device is continued but at the highest speed of the actuating shaft, the
intermitting motion being at that time thrown out and the continuous motion
substituted for it until the stitch-forming mechanism and the cutting mechanism
occupy their normal or starting positions with the cutting mechanism elevated, and
the clamp opened, as represented in Fig. 1 of the drawings. As a result of the
semicircular movement of the stitch-forming mechanism and the two short
reciprocations of the stitch frame at the same time, the small end of the button-
hole is finished and left with its depth stitches in a straight line substantially at
right angles to the length of the button-hole, rather than in a curved line as would
be the result if the two short reciprocations of the stitch frame described were
omitted.
This invention is not limited to the particular path for the under thread and the
stay thread after they leave the openings 78 and 87.
In Fig. 2 I have shewn a lever D pivotted at D' and jointed at one end to a
trigger D having an adjustable stud D* which in practice rides on an incline on
a lever D pivotted at one end to the stitch frame, said trigger having a toe which
co-operates with a trigger rest D' to aid in holding the lever t, t in position and
releasing it when desired. These parts are all found in the said Patent No. 11962.
September 21-1886, where, in most instances, the same designating letters are
employed.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is:
In means or apparatus for use in sewing or stitching button holes, or over-
seaming eyelet, or like holes.
1. The arrangement or combination and use of parts of machinery for working
button holes, or like holes, so that the rotation of the stitch-forming mechanism.
may be suspended while the straight sides of the button hole are being overstitched,
and so that when overstitching eyelet holes the relative change of position of the
stitch frame and clamp frame may be entirely suspended and only the rotary
motion retained during the stitching operation the relative change of position of
said parts being, however used to bring the work clamp into and out of operative
relation to the cutting mechanism which is made automatic, substantially as herein
before slescribed and shewn in the drawings.
2. The arrangement or combination and use of parts of apparatus so arranged
that it shall be automatic in all its movements after the operator has closed the
work-clamp, that is, the material is cut, the stitching is started, and at the
completion of the hole, irrespective of the form of the hole, the stitching is
automatically stopped, all substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
3. The arrangement or combination and use in stitching forming mechanism
adapted for making over edge stitches of a needle-bar provided with an eye pointed
needle located above the work clamp, and complemental stitch-forming devices
located below the said work-clamp, the said stitch-forming devices both below and
above the work-clamp being adapted to be fully rotated in one direction, the
movement of rotation being always in the same direction, substantially as set
forth.
4. The use in a machine for making over edge stitches in the production of button

page_text: .
and other holes, of a clamp frame; a work-clamp mounted thereon; a stitch frame;
stitch-forming mechanism including a needle-bar located wholly above the clamp-
frame and provided with an eye pointed needle, and complemental stitch forming
mechanism located below said clamp-frame, and devices to actuate the said stitch-
forming mechanism for the production of over-edge stitches and to rotate the said
stitch-forming mechanism in one direction rotation after rotation, substantially as
described and shown.
5. The use in a machine for making over-edge stitches in the production of
button and other holes, of a clamp-frame; a work-clamp; a stitch frame; stitch-
forming mechanism including a needle-bar located wholly above the clamp-frame
and provided with an eye-pointed needle and complemental stitch-forming
mechanism located below said clamp frame; devices to actuate the said stitch-
forming mechanism for the production of stitches and to rotate the said stitch
forming mechanism in one direction rotation after rotation, and devices to change
relatively the positions of the stitch-frame and clamp-frame to ensure the production
of overedge stitches along the sides and about the end of a button-hole, substantially
as described and shown.
6. The use in a machine for making overedge stitches in the production of
button and other holes, of a clamp frame, a work-clamp; a stitch-frame;. stitch:
forming mechanism including a needle-bar located wholly above the clamp-fraine
and provided with an eye-pointed needle, and complemental stitch-forming
mechanism located below said clamp frame, devices to actuate the said stitch-
forming mechanism for the production of stitches and to rotate the said stitch-
forming mechanism in one direction rotation after rotation, devices to change
relatively the positions of the stitch-frame and clamp-frame to ensure the production
of overedge stitches along the sides and about the end of a button-hole, and a
button hole cutter and means to operate the same intermittingly, substantially as
described and shown.
7. The use in a sewing machine having a casing 34, a longitudinally movable
block therein, and a circular bearing 32 contained therein, of a needle-bar adapted
to be reciprocated in said bearing, and devices to adjust said block ib said casing
to determine the length of the depth stitch, substantially as described and
:shown.
8. The use with a casing containing a hollow needle-bar carrying an eye-pointed
needle and located above the work; of a hollow rod or bar located below the work
and in the same vertical plane, said rod having an attached block, and an under
thread carrier, and gearing to rotate in unison but intermittingly the casing
containing the needle-bar, and the .block referred to and the under thread carrier
rotation after rotation in the same direction, substantially as described and
shown.
9. The use in a button-hole sewing machine of a race way, a needle segment and
.connected eye-pointed thread-carriers; a hollow rod contained and vertically
moveable in a suitable frame provided with a race way and provided with slotted
slide plate, and the throat plate also moveable with the said frame, combined with
an arm; a flyer through which the stay cord is led, and a hollow stud forming the
centre of rotation of the flyer and about, which the cord rotates, the under thread
being led through said hollow stud and the wound mass of stay cord on its way
into and through the said hollow rod, to operate, substantially as described.
10. In a sewing machine, the combination or arrangement and use of the
following instrumentalities viz. :-A clamp-frame; a work frame; a stitch frame;
stitch-forming mechanism therein; devices to rotate the stitch forming devices in
the same direction a semi rotation at each end of the button-hole, and devices to
change the relative positions of the stitch-frame and clamp-frame to ensure not
only the production of overedge stitches along the sides and outer end of the
button-hole, but also to impart a slight movement to and fro in the direction of
the length of the button-hole while the stitch-forming mechanism is being given a

page_text: semi-rotation at the end of the button-hole, substantially as and for the purpose
set forth.
Dated the 10th day of November 1893.
WM. BROOKES & SON,
55 & 56, Chancery Lane, London, Agents for the Applicant.