IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FEATHER FABRICS
Year: 1877

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Frederic Bardin, of the Firm Bardin et fils, of Paris, Ruc
de Bondy, 48, Manufacturer, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE
MANUFACTURE OF FEATHER FABRICS."
Sealed the 20th November 1877, and dated the 22nd May 1877.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Frederic Bardin at the Office
of the Commissioners of Patents on the 22nd May 1877.
FREDERIC BARDIN, of the Firm Bardin et fils, of Paris, Rue de Bondy, 48, Manu-
facturer. "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FEATHER FABRICS."
"
The object of this Invention is the manufacture of feather "chenilles," edgings,
and trimmings; also of fabrics from the flossy fibres or barbs of feathers detached
from their stems or quills, twisted or spun between threads.
In the manufacture of my fabric I stretch a thread of cotton, wool, silk, or other
like material for the whole of its length upon a table or platform, and lay or spread
the fibres or barbs of the feathers upon it. Another thread is then stretched length-
ways over the fibres of feather lying upon the first thread. The two threads are
thus superposed, embracing between them the fibres of feather. The two ends of
the threads are attached together; one of these ends is fixed, then the other is
siezed by hand, or by a turning appliance, to effect the twisting. By this means a
species of chenille is obtained, formed of the fibres of feathers held between two
threads; the whole being twisted or spun together.
Chenille as a fabric thus obtained may be employed alone or doubled with another
chenille and twisted together, for the trimming of ladies' apparel, and for other
purposes.
To form a feather fabric the chenille is used as a weft thread, and is passed in
the chain or warp of a weaving machine, taking care, by means of a comb, brush,
or other similar tool, to raise the barbs or fibres of the feathers out of the threads of
the warp. The result is a material trimmed or embellished at the top with feather
fibres in imitation of fur. This material is very smooth and soft to the touch, since
the feathers have been deprived of their stems or quills, and only the flossy fibres
or bars have been employed.

page_text: If it be desired to make a fabric having feathers on both surfaces care is taken
during the weaving, when the twisted chemille is introduced into the chain or warp
of the machine, to raise by means of a brush a part of the fibres of the chenille above
the chain, and to pass the other underneath. By this means a fabric is obtained
trimmed or embellished with feather fur above and beneath.
It will be understood that to vary the appearance of the chenille and of the
fabrics, different coloured feathers may be employed, thus imitating the furs of
animals.
The twisted feathers either in the form of chenille or after weaving may be
subjected to the usual preparations and dressings.
SPECIFICATION. in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters. Patent filed
by the said Frederic Bardin in the Great Scal Patent Office on the 22nd
November 1877:
FREDERIC BARDIN, of the Firm Bardin et fils, of Paris, Ruc de Bondy, 48, Manu-
facturer. "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FEATHER FABRICS."
The object of this Invention is the manufacture of (natural) feather "chenilles,"
edgings, or trimmings, and of fabrics, preferably from the flossy fibres or barbs of
feathers, twisted or spun between two or more threads.
The feather employed may be provided with or deprived of its rib, stem, or quill
by stripping, by tearing, or by cutting it.
The essential part of the Invention consists in the formation of the "chenille." In
the twisting or spinning of the feather any number of threads and any kind of
apparatus may be employed. The feather may be seized or grasped in any part by
the threads, either in the middle, or at the extremity, or near the rib, or only by
the rib.
As an example of the manufacture of chenilles with feather, the following method,
of operation may be adopted :-The fibres or barbs of the feathers are first- stripped,
torn, or detached from their ribs, stems, or quills. A thread of linen, cotton, wool,
silk, or other material, sized or not, is then stretched or extended upon a table,
frame, or platform, and the whole length of this thread; the fibres or barbs of
feathers are laid transversely or stretched crossways thereon. A second thread,.
sized or not, is then stretched or extended over the feathers and the first thread.
The two threads are thus superposed, and embrace between them the fibres or barbs
of the feathers in transverse position. The respective extremities of these threads,
are attached or fastened. One of the joined ends of the two threads, is then
fixed to the table, while the other is grasped freely by the hand, or by a crank,
or reel, and turned or twisted, thus completing the manufacture of the feather.
chenille.
This chenille thus obtained may be employed, single or doubled, with another
chenille, and twisted together, and in this condition may be employed for trimming.
or decorating ladies' apparel, and for other purposes. Several chenilles, cither.
single or doubled, may be coupled or conjoined, and edgings or trimmings formed,
in this manner suitable for jackets, hats, etc.
To make a feather fabric, each twisted feather chenille is employed as an ordinary
weft thread, and passed through the warp (of any material) by a weaving machine,

page_text: taking care by means of a comb, brush, or other similar tool or instrument to lift or
raise the barbs or fibres of the feathers out of the warp threads. In this manner a
material is obtained furnished on the exterior with feather fibres similar to fur or
plush. This fabric is very soft, especially when the fibres or barbs only are
employed, and completely deprived of the quill, stem, or rib of the feather.
If it be desired to manufacture a feather fabric with a double face of feather fur
it is necessary during the weaving, when the twisted chenille is introduced into the
warp, to raise or lift out above the warp, with a brush or similar instrument, a
part of the barbs or fibres of the chenille, and to remove or separate another part
from beneath. By this method a fabric is obtained furnished with feather fur on
both sides, the warp being in the middle of the double feather fur.
It will be understood that in order to give variety of appearance feathers of
different colours may be employed, and other filaments or materials may be mixed
with them for the sake of variety, especially when stuffs, rugs, and like products
are to be made.
The chenilles and feather fabrics may be subjected to the usual dressings and
finishings if desired.
And having now described the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner
the same is to be performed, I declare that I claim,
Firstly. The manufacture of "chenille of the same or of different coloured
feathers by arranging feathers, or only the barbs or fibres of feathers, between two
or more threads, and twisting or spinning the whole by hand or otherwise, as set
forth.
Secondly. The joining together of these "chenilles," or the employment of them
singly or isolated, for the purpose of forming edgings or trimmings for jackets, hats,
and other articles of clothing, or for other purposes.
Thirdly. The employment of twisted or spun feather chenille as weft in the
weaving of feather fabrics, either with one face of feather fur, or both, as set forth.
Fourthly. The mixing of twisted or spun feather chenilles with other materials,
either vegetable or animal, for the manufacture of fabrics, stuffs, rugs, and other
products, as set forth.
In witness whereof, I, the said Frederic Bardin, have hereunto set my hand
and seal, this Sixteenth day of November, One thousand eight hundred
and seventy-seven.
Witness,
CHARLES ARMENGAUD,
Civil Engineer,
No. 23, Boulevard de Strasbourg,
á Paris.
FREDERIC BARDIN. (L.S.)