IMPROVEMENTS IN FANCY WEAVING, AND IN APPARATUS EMPLOYED THEREFOR
Year: 1885

page_text: therefor.
We, JOSEPH ECCLES, of Steam Mill, Preston, Manufacturer, and ROBERT
WESTWELL, of Winewall, near Colne, Lancashire, Mill Manager, do hereby declare
the nature of our invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN FANCY WEAVING, AND IN
APPARATUS EMPLOYED THEREFOR" to be as follows:-
The improvements relate to what is known as leno or cross weaving, and are
applicable to those cases where the fabric is partly leno or cross weaving, and partly
plain cloth, or plain cloth with a floated figure or pattern, and have for object the
relieving of the strain or friction caused by the "doup," used in such weaving,
upon the yarn, and thus enabling a different class of yarns to be employed for this
purpose.
To accomplish this and to effect our improvements we tie up the leno harness to
the front hooks of the jacquard in such manner that to each "doup" is attached a
separate lingoe; and to each of these "doup" lingoes we connect a string, cord, or
thin wire, which we term a "helper." This "helper" is carried up through the
warp yarns to the jacquard mechanisin along with the rest of the harness, and is so
arranged that when the "doup" is drawn over the yarn such "doup" lingoe is
lifted by the jacquard and thus releases the weight and consequently the frictional
strain from taking effect upon the yarn.
The employment of the "helper" may be arranged in connection with various
methods of tying up the harness, and also in connection with any suitable method
of taking up the "slack" at te cross weave, and the form of loom and jacquard,
dobby, or shedding motion may be varied to a considerable extent without departing
from the peculiar character of the invention which consists in the employment of
the helper" herein before described for the purpose of taking from the yarn the
strain or friction of the "doup" used in leno or cross weaving when the same is
employed in combination with plain cloth having a floated pattern, or not.
Dated this 18th day of September 1885.

page_text: We, JOSEPH ECCLES, of Steam Mill, Preston, Manufacturer, and ROBERT
WESTWELL, of Winewall, near Colne, Lancashire, Mill Manager, do hereby declare
the nature of our invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN FANCY WEAVING, AND IN
APPARATUS EMPLOYED THEREFOR," and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:
.
The improvements relate to what is known as leno or cross weaving, and are.
applicable to those cases where the fabric is partly leno or cross weaving, and partly
plain cloth, or plain cloth with a floated figure, or pattern, and have for object the
relieving of the strain or friction caused by the "doup," used in such weaving, upon
the yarn, and thus enabling a different class of yarns to be employed for this
purpose.
:
To accomplish this and to effect our improvements, we tie up the leno harness to
the front hooks of the jacquard in such manner that to each "doup" is attached a
separate lingoe, and to each of these "doup" lingoes we connect a string, cord, or
thin wire, which we term a "helper." This "helper" is carried up through the
warp yarns to the jacquard mechanism along with the rest of the harness, and is so
arranged that when the "doup" is drawn over the yarn, such "doup" lingoe is
lifted by the jacquard and thus releases the weight and consequently the frictional
strain from taking effect upon the yarn.
The employment of the "helper" may be arranged in connection with various
methods of tying up the harness, and also in connection with any suitable method
of taking up the "slack" at the cross weave; and the form of loom and jacquard,
dobby, or shedding motion may be varied to a considerable extent without departing
from the peculiar character of the invention which consists in the employment of
the "helper" hereinbefore described for the purpose of taking from the yarn the
strain or friction of the "doup"-used in leno or cross weaving when the same is
employed in combination with plain cloth having a floated pattern, or not.
But that the improvements may be better understood we will, by the aid of the
accompanying drawing proceed more fully to describe means employed by us.
DESCRIPTION OF DRAWING.
The figure represents those portions of apparatus which are necessary to exhibit
our invention.
a, shews the "doup" harness, and b, the "doup" heald, with their lingoes a¹,
and b¹, attached. c, shews the extra string or "helper" which passes alongside the
doup" harness direct to a hook on the jacquard and is actuated by the punching
of the cards in such manner that when the ordinary harness lifts the end of yarn
passing through the "doup" b, this "helper" c is lifted at the same time, thus

page_text: taking off the strain or weight of the "doup" heald b, and lingoe 61, from the end
of yarn, by which means finer or more tender yarn may be employed in leno or cross
weaving.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what
we claim is-
The employment of the cord or "helper" c, attached to each "doup" heald in
leno or cross weaving, which cord or "helper" is continued upward direct to a hook
in the jacquard there to be actuated by the cards for the special purpose and in
manner substantially as herein shewn and described.
WILLIAM GADD, C.E.,
Agent.