Improvements in Sewing Machines.
Year: 1894

page_text: Date of Application, 20th Aug., 1894--Accepted, 15th Oct., 1894
COMPLETE
SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Sewing Machines.
1, FRANCIS ARTHUR MILLS, of 2607 North 4th Street in the City of
Philadelphia, County of Philadelphia and State of Pennsylvania, United States
of America, and JAMES MUNDELL, of 123 North 13th Street, in said City of
Philadelphia, Gentlemen, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in
what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement:-
The invention herein relates to sewing machines, particularly applicable for
sewing boots & shoes, wherein a curved barbed needle operates with a waxed
thread, and the said improvements consist in certain novel parts and combinations
of parts hereinafter specifically set forth.
The following description read in connection with the accompanying drawings
will enable any person skilled in the art to which the invention relates to under-
stand its nature and to practice it in the form in which we prefer to employ it, but
it will be understood that the invention is not limited to the precise form herein
illustrated and described as various modifications may be made without departing
from its spirit and without exceeding the scope of the claims concluding this
Specification.
Referring to these drawings:
Fig. 1 represents a vertical central section of a sewing machine embodying the
several improvements.
Fig. 1 is a horizontal section of the split standard.
Fig. 2 is an elevation of the right side of the machine.
Fig. 3 is an elevation of the left side of the same.
Fig. 4 is a front view of the same.
Fig. 5 is a rear view of the same showing the tension device and Fig. 5^,
the sleeved tension-wheel 105 enlarged.
Fig. 6 is a top view of the machine.
shows
Fig. 7 is an axial section of the cam-cylinders which operate the several parts of
the machine.
Fig. 8 shows an enlarged vertical central section of the head of the machine,
containing the operating parts.
Figs. 9, 10 and 11, Sheet 1, show respectively the needle-carrier in side, front
and top views.
Fig. 12 shows in elevation the centerhead-structure of the machine and the
looper and slide-rest devices thereon.
Fig. 13 shows in top view the trunnion-rolls 88 on the looper-rod 24 and their
relation to the cylinder cams.
Fig. 14 shows in profile the cylinder-cams 72 for operating the feed-lever 26.
Fig. 15 shows in profile the cam 96 for laterally operating the looper-arm 93.
Fig. 16 shows the circumferential and face cams 89 and 96 for operating the
looper both laterally and longitudinally.
Fig. 17 shows the box which fastens the looper-rod spring 90 to the head.
Fig. 18 shows the sewing-head structure which contains the needle-carrier.
Fig. 19 shows the front pillar of the centerhead bifurcated to confine the sewing-
head structure shown in Fig. 18.
Fig. 20 shows the compound feed-lever device.
Fig. 21 is a sectional view of the pivot-pin 74 for the feed-lever device.
Fig. 22 shows in perspective the front end of the sewing-head structure, the
work-supporting and sewing devices and the provision for supplying the looper

page_text: WICH TWO separate and distinct cifreads to suit uinerent Ston, CIOTICE
used.
Fig. 23 shows the feed-arm in its relation to the shoe-channel and illustrating in
dotted lines the saw-tooth shaped movement of the feed-lip.
Fig. 24 shows the feed-lever and its operating cam.
Fig. 25 shows in side view the back-gage device.
Fig. 26 shows in vertical section the device for operating the back-gage.
Fig. 27 shows the slide-rest for the work.
Fig. 28 shows in enlarged view the locking device for the slide-rest.
Fig. 29 illustrates the operation of the looper around the needle to form the
loop and place the thread in the barb.
Fig. 30 shows the thread as it is placed in the needle barb in the operation of
forming the loop-stitch.
Fig. 31 shows in vertical section the waxing appliance for the two separate and
distinct threads, and
Fig. 32, Sheet 8 shows the parts of the needle-carrier separated.
The sewing mechanism is contained in what we call a centerhead-structure and
housing mounted upon a supporting structure in position for the presentation and
manipulation of the work to the devices for supporting and feeding it. This
supporting structure has provision for adjusting the centerhead to suit the height
of the operator, and for turning or swivelling it horizontally to allow him
convenient access to every side of the machine.
For this purpose we provide a hollow standard A and split its upper end at a,
Fig. 1 vertically for about a foot. At each side of this split there is a lug b,
through which a clamping-screw c, passes to clamp the split end of the standard
upon a screw-stem on which the centerhead is mounted to prevent the latter from
turning when set. This screw-stem fits snugly within the standard and has a
strong circumferential screw-thread d, which engages a screw-ring e, which rests
upon the split end of the standard and forms a swivel-support for the centerhead.
By turning this ring by the arms e', the centerhead is raised or lowered and when
so adjusted is clamped by the screw c, to hold it firm. When unclamped the
centerhead can be freely turned upon the ring e, to raise or to lower it or for
convenient access to any part of it. It will be understood that in this adjustment
the screw-ring maintains its seat upon the standard and gives a firm and durable
support for the working structure.
The center-head Fig. 12 which contains the sewing, work-supporting and feeding
mechanism comprises an inverted arch 2, open at the top and forming a front
bifurcated pillar 3, Fig. 19 a rear pillar 31 and a semi-circular wall 4 for the
accommodation of cylinders Fig. 7 having cams for operating the sewing and
work-supporting mechanisms.
This arched centerhead is firmly secured across the center of the oblong base-
plate 1 by means of a bottom dovetail tongue 6, fitting in a corresponding groove 7
on the base-plate and a center-bolt 8 Fig. 1 passing through a transverse slot 9, in
said base-plate into a screw-threaded hole in the solid base, whereby the center-
head can be adjusted in relation to the crank pin 103 of the needle-operating
pitman 35 to adjust the needle with respect to the looper 81 to give the proper
relation of the needle-barb to the looper.
The front pillar 3 of the centerhead has a vertical rectangular opening 10 within
which is mounted the sewing-head which for this purpose has vertical recesses 11,
Fig. 18 on each side fitting corresponding tongues 12, Fig. 19 on the inner walls
of the opening 10 in the pillar, and when seated in place within the pillar is
secured by screw-bolts 13 passing into threaded holes 14 in the sides of the sewing-
head.
This sewing-head is constructed of vertical side plates 15, a front plate 16, and a
top plate 17, a screw 18 binding the parts together, so as to accomn'odate between
them the needle-carrier. The right side plate is arched at its lower front corner 15¹
to allow the feed-lever to work at the side of the head.

page_text: In the other side plate is loosely fitted a horizontal pin 20 on which the necure
carrier is loosely mounted.
The needle-carrier is shown in detail in Figs. 9, 10, 11 and 32, Sheets 1 and 8,
and is constructed of two joining plates 21, 21, recessed on their inner sides to form
bifurcations at each end. The meeting faces are formed with curved grooves
within which the curved needle 22 is clamped by a cap 23 and screw-pin 231 the
needle passing through a diameter hole in the pin so as to extend to the front from
the lower side of the carrier.
The joining parts of the carrier are secured by a screw 232 and we provide this
construction for the convenient mounting of the needle-guide 28 in the bifurcation
at that end of the carrier through which needle-guide passes the pin 20 on which
said carrier is loosely mounted and upon which pin said needle guide is fixed so
that the carrier and the needle-guide will operate together and also independently
of each other as we will presently state.
The needle-carrier is fitted to move in contact with the inner walls of the side
plates of the sewing-head and the crank operated pitman 35 is connected by the
pin 36 between the bifurcations 34 of the carrier. The head-plates therefore serve
as guides for supporting the upper end of the needle-carrier to prevent sidewise
looseness in its motion, prevent undue strain upon its pivot 20, give a firm movement
to the needle in piercing the work, and cause the pitman to have a direct central
pull upon the carrier in the line of the needle.
As the pitman rod gives an oscillating movement to the needle-carrier, the latter
moves freely on its pivot-pin and this movement operates the guide-arm 28 by
striking the pin 30 as the carrier moves forward to give an inward movement
to the needle-guide to cause it to follow the needle back in its function of
bracing it.
We use the pin 30 as the means of fixing the needle guide to the carrier-pivot.
For keeping the needle-guide in proper relation to the barb of the needle and for
moving the needle-guide outward, we fix an arm 31 Figs. 3 and 10, on the outer
end of the pivot 20 of the needle-carrier and connect said arm to a spring 32 which
constantly tends to pull it back and the needle-guide forward so that as the carrier
moves forward the guide-arm will be free to move forward with it.
Stop pins 33 Fig. 3 on the outer wall of the left plate of the sewing-head serve
to limit the movement of the arm 31 and the needle-guide in proper relation to the
barb of the needle while piercing the work.
The crank-pin 103 is fixed in the cam-cylinders which are mounted on the bed-
plate and the pitman-rod is connected to this crank-pin between hubs 37 of said
cylinders and thereby gives a firm and easy movement to the pitman.
A bushing 38 Fig. 18, allows for a renewal of the bearing of the needle-carrier
pivot.
Above the needle-carrier is mounted the looper operating rod 24 which carries
the looper-arm 25. This rod passes through and has a bushed bearing 92 in the
front plate 16 of the sewing-head, and it passes through and has a bushed-
bearing 91 in the rear pillar of the centerhead, and is operated as we shall presently
state.
Above the looper-rod at the right side of the sewing-head is mounted the feed-
lever 26 as seen in Fig. 2. Back of and below the needle-carrier, the back-gage 39
is mounted in the front pillar. Below this back-gage the slide-rest 46 is mounted
in both pillars, and upon the rear pillar is arranged the locking device 50 for the
slide-rest. The back-gage 39 is for supporting the edge of the sole at the point of
stitching and clear of the point of the needle when feeding the work. It is carried
by a horizontal slide 27 fitted in the front pillar, and this slide connects with a
vertical arm 41 on a shaft 42 Fig. 26 fitted loosely in the pillar and having an
arm 43 on its outer end at the left side of the centerhead.
A roll 44 on this arm acts upon a cam 40, Figs. 3 and 6, which is adapted to
drive the back-gage forward in position to support the edge of the sole just before
the needle moves forward to pierce the work.

page_text: This cam gives a positive pushing forward movement to the back-gage and locks
it in position to support the work. This movement of the gage is made quick at
first and slow as it comes in contact with the work so as not to jar the shoe and the
form of the cam, as seen at i, 2, 2, in Fig. 3 provides for this quick and slow
movement. The inward movement of the back-gage is effected by a spring 45,
connecting the slide and pillar. This locking of the gage is important because it
allows the upper of the shoe to be held firmly against the shoulder of the sole and
puts the upper to its place before the needle pierces, makes the tension uniform and
causes a smooth drawing of the upper at the shanks. We provide for adjusting
the extent of the forward movement of the back-gage to suit the thickness of the
material between the bottom of the channel and the edge of the sole and for giving
a suitable clearance for the feed of the shoe between the feed device and the back-
gage. This adjustment is made by setting the arm 43 on its pin 42 so that the cam
will give the arm more or less movement by means of a clamp-screw 45¹ in the
split bearing end of said arm.
For supporting the lasted shoe in proper position to the sewing mechanism, we
provide the slide rest 47 so that its acting end 46 stands vertically with a convex
outer face just under the acting end of the back-gage, and curving downward
terminates in a flat bar which is fitted to slide horizontally in guide-ways 48, 48' in
the front and in the rear pillars and in line with the needle so that the pressure
upon the slide rest and upon the back-gage is central with the machine.
The rear
guide-way is formed by a box open at its ends and top and has fitted therein a
friction clamp-block 49 which is adapted to act with a clamping and releasing
function upon the flat end of the slide-rest to lock it in the box and hold it firm
when the needle draws the stitching in tight. This clamp-block is held in position
by a pressure-lever 50 pivoted to the rear side of the centerhead as seen in Figs. 5
and 28, and crossing over the friction-block engages a groove therein so as to
prevent the block moving with the slide. This pressure lever extends beyond the
left side of the centerhead and is constantly forced down by a spring 51, connected
to the centerhead and adjusted to give the proper degree of pressure upon the lever
to bind and lock the slide-rest. This adjustment is made by a tension-screw 52
Fig. 3 in a fixed lug 53 at the top of the spring. To release the lock on the slide-
rest, we provide a lever 54 pivoted at 55 on the left side of the centerhead at a
point below the free end of the pressure-lever. This lever 54 has a roll 56 which
engages a cam 57 on the cylinder 97 and this cam is formed to both lock and
release the lever 50 as we shall presently state. The pivoted end of the lever 54
is just under the free end of the pressure-lever and engages it by an abutting
screw 58 the adjustment of which serves to regulate the pressure of the lever 50
upon the slide-rest, and to set the bearing relation of the two levers to maintain
the contact with the cam 57. This prevents lost motion and gives the cam a
quick action in raising the lever 50 to release the pressure of the friction block on
the slide-rest and leave it free to be pushed back with the work against the pressure
of the spring 60.
A jam-nut 59 on the adjusting-screw serves to fix the adjustment.
The outward movement of the slide-rest under the action of the spring is limited
by a pin 61 abutting against the front pillar. This compound lever and cam device
for locking the slide-rest is such as to allow the action of the cam-lever 54 to be
independent of the locking function of the pressure-lever and the cam-lever having
a very short lifting leverage is operated by an easy action of the cam. The locking
and releasing action of the back-gage and the slide-rest are effected by independent
means and this gives the advantage of maintaining the lock of the back-gage a
longer time than that of the slide-rest for the purpose of keeping the work firm in
its place while the needle is piercing the work. The slide-rest is locked at a point
at which the cam has traversed about half its revolution, while the back-gage is
locked at a point at which its cam has made about three-quarters of a revolution.
The device for feeding the work is best seen in Figs. 20, 23, and 24, and it
consists of a lever 26 approximately of L-shape, pivoted to the right side of the

page_text: sewing-head, and carrying at its lower end an arm 19 which terminates in a lip a¹,
just at one side of the path of the needle and adapted to enter the channel of the
sole. The pivot 74 bearing this lever is at the middle of its length fixed to it and
is fitted to rock in a bushing 65 in a box 66, Fig. 8, which is secured in the sewing-
head by the cap-plate 17 and the screw 18. The upper horizontal end of this lever
has a roll 62 which is held down upon a circumferential cam 63 on the cylinder 99
by a spring 64 Fig. 2, which cam imparts to said lever an intermittent rocking
motion which causes its lipped end to vibrate toward and from the machine within
the sole-channel. Simultaneously with the outward movement of the feed-lip, the
feed-lever has imparted to it a lateral or sidewise movement upon its pivot 74
which, for that purpose has a sliding movement imparted to it so that the two
movements given the lever will cause its feed-lip to describe a zig-zag path or
line 68 like that of saw-teeth as illustrated by the dotted lines in the channel of
the sole in Fig. 23. This oblique feed of the lip is outward from the bottom of the
channel towards the right. At the end of this oblique movement which the dotted
lines indicate the inward movement of the feed-lip is effected to cause it to engage
the bottom of the channel 69 and after the stitch has been thoroughly pulled, the
said lever is then caused to move back sidewise by the endwise movement of its.
pivot, thus causing the feed-lip to move to the left to feed the shoe for the
next stitch.
For effecting these lateral movements of the feed-lever we provide a lever 70
pivoted by the screw-pin 80 to the top of the sewing-head in rear of the bearing-
pin of the feed-lever and connected to the latter by a vertical pin 71 Fig. 21 which
fits into a hole in said bearing-pin. As this bearing-pin is fixed to the feed-lever
and has a rocking motion with it this hole is slightly larger than the vertical pin 71,
to accommodate said rocking movement. The lever 70 is branched at one end and
provided with rolls 712 which engage vertical face cams 72, 72, Figs. 6, 7, and 20,
which are
on the separate but connected cam-cylinders and which impart a
horizontal vibratory movement to said lever 70, which thereby gives an end wise
movement of the bearing-pin 74 to move the feed-lever sidewise. This compound
movement of the feed device causes the feed-lip to describe an acute-angle, the
apex 73 of which is the point at which the feed stroke terminates. It is from this
point that the feed-lip describes its oblique path to the point at which said lip stops
to make the short inward movement to the point from which it describes the base
line of a right angle. The lever 70 operates without lost motion so that the feed-
lip åcts with precision in the bottom of the channel and always free of the path of
the needle, while the cam 63 acts to hold the feed-lip down firmly while the needle
is piercing the sole.
The oblique movement of the feed-lip gives a gradual action in opening the
shoe-channel, and frees the lip from contact with the bottom of the channel while
the lip is returning for the next feed and it also gives the advantage of sewing in
channels of little depth and it prevents all sudden movements of the feed-lip.
The bearing pin of the feed lever may be fitted with steel sleeves for renewal
when worn; and it may also be provided with steel pins 75, 76, as wear-bearings
for the pin 71 of the lever 70.
The steel pins are placed in axial bores of the bearing-pin 74, and we make the
pin 75 serve as an adjusting screw for the lever-pin 71, and we secure said screw-
pin by a jam-nut. 77, while a jam-nut 78 secures the feed lever on its bearing-pin.
We provide an adjusting screw 79, Fig. 12 in the arch of the sewing-head so as
to form a stop against which the upper end of the feed-lever arm 19 strikes
to prevent the feed-lip from being forced up while the work is being held
against it.
We will now describe the mechanism for placing the thread in the barb of the
needle and forming the loop around it.
A horizontal rod 24 is mounted in the upper ends of the pillars of the centerhead,
passes through a space between the cam-cylinders and through and beyond the
sewing-head and has an arm 25 depending from its front end which terminates in a

page_text: looper-finger 81 standing on a downward incline toward the needle.
This rod has
a longitudinal and a rocking movement as we will presently state. The looper-
finger is cylindrical is secured into the arm and has a central hole 83 which opens
at its side 84 to receive and feed the thread.
The looper-arm is made adjustable and clamped by a split end and screws 825
upon the rod 24, so that when in its normal position the looper-nose will be to the
extreme left of the line of movement of the needle. The rear end of the rod
projects beyond the rear pillar and terminates in a screw-stem 24¹ on which a
sleeve 85 is fitted between jam-nuts 86 and a trunnion-head 87 fitted loosely on
said rod. This trunnion-head engages by means of rolls 88, 88, face-cams 89
which, acting on the trunnion-head, are adapted to force the looper-rod inward, as
seen in Fig. 8. A spring 90 on this rod constantly tends to force the looper
toward the front and the provision of the jam-nuts 86 is for adjusting said rod to
properly set the looper-finger in relation to the needle. The spring keeps the
trunnion-head rolls in contact with their respective cams, and the jam-nuts acting
against the end of the sleeve as a fixed point, will set the looper.
From the rod in front of the trunnion-head, an arm 93 depends and is made
adjustable thereon by a screw 94, while its lower end has a friction-roll 95 which
engages a ring-cam 96 Fig. 16, on the inner vertical face of the left cylinder 97,
whereby said, arm is moved positively to rock and vibrate the looper-arm to the
right. The spring 90 has a fixed connection with the rock-rod and with the sewing-
head, and the torsional force of the spring causes the looper-arm to vibrate to the
left. A threaded box 98 serves to connect the spring to the sewing-head and holds
it against the torsional strain caused by the movements of the looper-rod. By
turning the nuts 86 to the left the spring acts to set the looper-arm forward and when
these nuts are turned to the right the rock-rod and its looper-arm is moved back.
This construction gives the central relation of the looper-finger in relation to the
needle. An important function of the spring in its connection with the rock-rod,
is that it allows the looper-rod to yield while moving to the left, so that at any
point in its movement to the left, the looper-arm is free to yield to avoid breaking
the needle or bending it in the event of coming in contact with it. In such event
the yielding function of the looper-arm sidewise is permitted by the spring and the
latter thereby forms a cushion for the looper-arm and allows it to yield in the con-
tingency stated; while the joint action of the trunnion-head operating cams 89, the
roll-arm 93 and the rod and its spring, gives the revolving motion to the looper-
finger.
The crank-pin 103 for operating the needle-carrier is mounted in and serves to
connect the separate cam-cylinders as seen in Fig. 7. These cam-cylinders 97
and 99 are each fixed upon a separate shaft 100 mounted in standards 101 on the
centerhead base-plate and the pitman-rod works between the cylinders in a plane
vertically coincident with the positions of the back-gage, the slide-rest and the
looper-arm, and thereby gives a compact relation of the parts all operating in a
direct line with a clear front for swinging the shoe while sewing the shank. These
cylinders are provided with cams for operating the several parts of the machine,
and we secure the cylinders upon their respective shafts by means of key-pins d', d',
and screws ², e². The crank-pin 103 is secured to each of the cylinders by the
screw-pins c¹, c¹, and nuts 104 on the ends of the crank-pin and the cylinders are
thereby firmly bound against the ends of a bushing which forms the bearing on
the crank-pin for the pitman-rod so that the cylinders rotate together by means of
the belt-wheelf. The shaft standards 101 are fitted in ways g, in the base-plate
and are secured and made adjustable by screws h, so as to set the cam-cylinders in
equal relation to the direct line of the working parts. In connection with this
lateral adjustment of the cam-cylinders we provide for adjusting the centerhead at
right-angles to the line of the shafts by means of the slot 9 in the base-plate and
the screw bolt 8, Fig. 1, whereby to give the needle the proper relation to the
looper and give all the working parts a perfect working relation to each other.
Having described the functions and the construction of the several operating

page_text: devices in the organised machine, we will now describe the means by which these
devices are separately and conjointly operated.
As the needle is moved forward, the back-gage is at the same time moved
forward a little in advance of the starting of the needle in position to press the edge
of the shoe-upper against the shoulder of the sole to hold them together while pulling
the stitches. This movement of the back-gage is effected by the cam 40, the
flattened part of which is about one-fifth of its circumference and acts to more
the back-gage in and out, while the concentric part 40, acts to lock and to hold
the gage in its supporting position while the stitch is being pulled in tightly. The
cam-points act to give a gradual forward movement to the back-gage just
before it comes in contact with the work and thus prevent knocking the shoe
suddenly forward against the feed-lip.
Referring to Figs. 1 and 8 the back-gage, the needle, the slide-rest and the
looper-arm are shown at the limit of their outward movements; the slide-rest
having been so moved by its connected spring 60, the action of which is to keep the
slide-rest pressed forward against the shoe to keep the latter against the feed-
device. When in this position the slide-rest is locked by the cam 57 which, for
about half its circumference is constructed at its lowest part j, Fig. 3 to allow the
pressure-lever 50 to apply and maintain the lock while a stitch is being drawn
tight.
The other half of this cam has a greater concentric radius 57 to act upon and
.depress the roll-end of the lever 54 to raise and release the pressure-lever from the
friction block 49, and thus allow the free yielding action of the slide-rest to admit
of the free feeding of the shoe between said rest and the feed-lip.
The feed-lever 26 has its compound movement effected as follows: The circum-
ference 63 of the right cylinder 99 has a slight depression k³, Fig. 24 of about one-
fifth its circle which gives the in and the out movements to the acting end 19 of
the feed-lever, while the remaining portion of this cam 63 serves to hold the feed-
lever-lip against the bottom of the channel in the sole. A vertical face-cam 72 on
each cylinder acts to vibrate the lever 70 to move the feed-lever sidewise to feed
the shoe by the saw-tooth shaped movement of the feed-lip. The cam which gives
the feed to the shoe, is on the right side cylinder 99 and has a curved surface projection
about one-seventh of the circle of the cam and acts to move the feed-lever the extent
of the feed; while the other cam 72 on the left side cylinder is of identical con-
struction and acts to move the feed-lever the distance to make the next feed for the
shoe. It will be understood that as the feed-lever is vibrated sidewise its roll 62
will slide on the surface of the cam 63 in an oblique path.
The provisions which we have described for moving the looper-finger in and out
are such as to cause its thread carrying finger to describe a half-circle while moving
outward and then a half-circle while moving inward to complete its rotation around
the needle to. place the thread in its barb and this division of such movement in
connection with its sidewise movement to form the loop is very advantageous in
preventing misthreading the barb of the needle.
For this purpose the movements of the looper forward and to the left are
produced by the action of the spring while the movements of the looper inward
and to the right are produced by the conjoint action of the cams 89 and 96.
We will now describe the circular path of the looper to place the thread in the
barb of the needle.
Referring to Figs. 15, 16, and 29 which illustrate the looping circle formed
around the needle and the cams for effecting the same and assuming the looper-
finger 81 to be at the starting point k, Fig. 29, which is its starting point in relation
to the needle, the looper will be caused to describe a quarter-circle from k to 1, by
means of the cams 96 moving the roll arm 93 sidewise and by the action of the
spring 90 moving the looper forward. From this point l, the looper continues to
move to the front of the needle from I, to m, by the action of the said spring and
continues to move from m, to n, by the action of said spring and cam 89 and so on

page_text: from n, to s, by the action of the cams 89 and 96 which completes the circle with
respect to the needle and places the thread in its barb u¹.
The course of the looper is now changed from s, to t, which latter is in line with
the needle and the looper remains in this position until the needle reaches its
extreme backward movement.
At this point the slide-rest is unlocked and the back-gage is being drawn
inward. The feed device now starts to feed the shoe and at the same instant the
looper starts with the feed and traverses from t, to k, which completes the operation of
the looping-mechanism. The path of the looper above described with reference to
Fig. 29 can be read with the same letters of reference in Figs. 15 and 16 in relation
to the roll-arm 93.
The tension device as shown is adapted for two separate and distinct threads for
independent use with a looper and a needle, and the drawings show the looper-
The
finger as having both threads one of which is always hung up out of use.
tension device is preferably mounted by a suitable bracket 114 upon the rear
of the machine and consists of a pair of wheels 105 arranged one above the
other each mounted loosely by a sleeve 108 upon a horizontal shaft 107 secured
by jam-nuts 115. Each sleeve has a disk 106 Fig. 5A, on each end away from
the wheel, which engages a suitable friction-pad 109 on a co-acting surface 110
which is maintained in frictional contact by a spring 111 on the shaft. Nuts 112
on the shaft serve to regulate the tension on the thread through the springs. This
construction removes the friction pads from the wheels and thus prevent them from
being gummed with wax dripping from the wheels, which gather wax from the hot
waxed thread which would soon destroy the pads if the wax was allowed to drip
upon them. The thread is wound once around each friction wheel from the lower
to the upper one and passes from the upper wheel over a guide wheel 113 mounted
in a pivoted arm 116 cushioned at 117, and thence to the looper-finger.
By having the thread pass around a pair of tension wheels the spring pressure of
both wheels is about that which would be required for one wheel and prevents the
slipping of the thread which occurs under the pulling action of the needle when one
wheel is used.
But the two wheels being under light pressure allows them to turn before
the thread would slip because the greatest friction is used upon the two wheels
and not upon the pads and the thread is under a uniform tensiou at every point.
In using a single thread it has to be cut to allow the use of a lighter or heavier
thread to suit light and heavy stock. This change of thread is troublesome and
inconvenient. We provide a duplex tension device to contain two different threads
suited for light and for heavy stock. Each tension device is composed of two
wheels one above the other and arranged on separate shafts and the thread from
each set is delivered over the machine and both threads are passed through the
looper-finger where they are held for separate and independent use. The end of
that thread which is not in use is held out of the way on the looper-arm as seen
in Figs. 1 and 22. This allows the tension of the two threads to be adjusted
for different work, both held on the machine ready for use and each having an
independent tension suited to the work.
A
The waxing and heating device is attached to the machine below the tension
device and is adapted for heating and waxing the two separate threads. It consists
of a drum 120 open at its bottom and from its closed top depends a water-
chamber 121 and within this chamber, the wax-pot 122 hangs in the water.
suitable heater 123 serves to heat the water-chamber and the wax-pot. Two
tubes 124 open into the wax-pot each having a pin 125 at its lower end so that the
separate threads are passed down through top openings 126, Fig. 31, into each
tube and up through a wax-stripper to the tension device, from which it passes
into and through heating-tubes 127 to the looper. The wax strippers are pieces of
rubber 128 held between jaws 129 one of which is pivoted to a housing 130 and is
pressed by a thumb-screw 131 passing through a band 132 which surrounds the

page_text: jaws, to put the proper pressure upon the strippers to strip the threads of surplus
wax. The stripper housings are fixed on a hinged cover 133 through which the
wax is supplied to the pot. The heating-tubes 127 communicate with the hot
space B of the drum and open into separate horizontal branch-pipes 134 at top of
the machine. These top pipes are open at both ends and terminate at the cushioned
guide-wheels 113 the thread entering through a hole in a screw-plug 135 and is
kept moist and soft in passing to the needle by the hot air. The top pipes are
connected to the vertical pipes by a swivelling coupling 136 which permits the top
pipes to be turned out for access to the machine.
It will be understood however that any suitable tension device and waxing and
heating appliances may be used with the machine. It will also be understood that
many of the details of construction above described are not essential to the several
features of the invention separately considered, and that immaterial changes may
be permitted from the general construction and arrangement of parts contributing
toward the invention.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we
separately claim in a sewing machine is :-
1. The needle-carrier formed of the joined plates and forked at each end, a
pivot pin on which said carrier is loosely mounted, and a needle-guide fixed on
said pivot-pin in the fork of the carrier, in combination with the pitman-rod
connected in the other fork of the carrier, and suitable means for operating the
needle-guide, substantially as described.
2. The needle-carrier mounted loosely upon its pivot-pin and working between
fixed guide-walls, in combination with a needle-guide fixed upon said pivot-pin and
having a stud at its pivot connected end for engagement with said carrier, an arm
fixed on the end of said pivot-pin, stops for limiting the movement of said arm, a
spring connecting said arm with the machine, and the crank operated pitman-rod
the said pivot-pin being also loosely mounted, for the purpose stated.
3. The sewing-head structure constructed of side plates, one of which is arched
at its lower front corner, and forming interior.guide-walls, in combination with
the needle-carrier mounted on the other side plate and fitted to work between
said guide-walls whereby to permit access to the needle-carrier and to give a firm
lateral support to its crank-connected end substantially as described.
4. The centerhead structure of open semi-circular form, a sewing-head structure
supported in overhanging relation at the frout end of said centerhead, the feed-
lever device and the back-gage mounted in said sewing-head, and the slide-rest
mounted in said centerhead, in combination with operating cam devices mounted in
bearing supports, substantially as described.
5. A semi-circular centerhead and a separate sewing-head structure mounted
upon and overhanging the front end of said centerhead, in combination with a
looper-device supported at one end in said sewing-head extending through the
open body of the centerhead, supported in its rear side and having a looper-arm
depending in front of the sewing-head, a slide-rest extending through the open
body of the centerhead and supported therein, the needle-carrier, the feed-lever
device and the back-gage severally mounted in the sewing-head and suitable
operating mechanism for the several parts, substantially as described.
6. The combination of the supporting stand comprising a lower fixed member
and an upper vertically adjustable and swivelling member, with a centerhead
containing the sewing mechanism and mounted upon the upper member of the
stand, cam-cylinders rotating within the centerhead, and pillar-supports upon the
swivelling member for said cam-cylinders, whereby the centerhead inay be properly
aligned with said cam-cylinders and the latter with the needle.
7. The combination of a centerhead comprising an inverted archway open at
the top and forming front and rear pillars, a separate sewing-head or housing
mounted on said front pillar, the needle-carrier and the back-gage mounted in said

page_text: sewing-head, the looper device and the slide-rest both arranged to cross the open
archway, and separate cam-cylinders arranged within said archway having the
crank connecting pitman for the needle-carrier between them and between the
looper and the slide-rest devices, and mechanism connecting said cam-cylinders for
operating the looper, the work-supporting and the feed device, substantially as
described.
8. The combination with the sewing-head, and a centerhead forming an inverted
archway open at the top of a back-gage, a spring connecting it with said sewing-
head, a cam-cylinder arranged in the centerhead archway, and a device connecting
the back-gage and the cam-cylinder consisting of a rocking-pin 42 having an
arm 41 connecting the back-gage and an arm 43 having a roll 44 connecting the
said cylinder, whereby the back-gage is operated and locked by rigid connections.
9. The combination of an arched centerhead and a sewing-head mounted in
overhanging relation at the front thereof, of separate cam-cylinders arranged in
the centerhead archway and connected by a crank-pin a needle-carrier, its crank
connected pitman-rod between said cams, the back-gage, the slide-rest and the
feed-device, mechanism between the cam-cylinders for operating the looper-device,
mechanism at the top of the sewing-head for operating the feed-device, mechanism
at the side of the centerhead for operating and locking the back-gage, and
mechanism at the rear of the centerhead for locking the slide-rest, substantially as
described.
10. The combination with the centerhead structure containing the sewing-
mechanism, of the separate cam-cylinders mounted on independent shafts at each
side of said centerhead, a crank-pin connecting said cylinders, the needle-operating
pitman-rod between said cylinders, and means for removably securing said crank-
pin to said cylinders, substantially as described.
11. A structure for sewing-machines, comprising an inverted arch having a flat
base open at its top, and a separate housing overhanging the front arch-wall in
combination with a looper-arm overhanging the front housing and mechanism for
operating it arranged within the archway, substantially as described.
12. The combination with a centerhead structure, for containing the operating
mechanism, and a hollow supporting standard therefor, of a screw-stem fixed to
said centerhead and telescoping with said standard a screw-ring engaging said
screw-stem, seated upon said standard, and means for clamping said screw-stem
within and to said standard, for the purpose stated.
13. The combination with a centerhead structure for containing the operating
mechanism, of a hollow standard split vertically at its upper end and having a
clamp device at the split, a screw-stem fixed to said centerhead and telescoping
with the split-standard, and a screw ring engaging said screw-stem, and seated
upon said standard, for the purpose stated.
14. A centerhead structure of a shoe-sewing machine, consisting of a base-plate,
a semi-circular open body upon said base-plate, a sewing-head housing mounted
upon and overhanging the front side of said semi-circular body, and standard
bearings upon said base-plate for containing and supporting in operative relation
the sewing, feeding and work-supporting devices, substantially as described.
15. A centerbead structure consisting of a semi-circular open body forming
front and rear pillars, the front pillar bifurcated and the base having a tongue, a
base-plate at right angles to said semi-circular body having a transverse groove
for said base-tongue and longitudinal surface grooves, standard bearings adjustably
fitted in said surface grooves, a cross-slot in said base-plate and a bolt passing
through said slot for adjustably securing the centerhead structure upon said base-
plate, and a sewing-head housing fitted in and overhanging the bifurcated pillar,
the said semi-circular body and sewing-head housing adapted to contain the
working mechanism in operative relation.
16. A. centerbead structure and housing for sewing machines, consisting of a
semi-circular body having a flat base, open at the top and at the sides, of a
greater length than width, having its front side bifurcated and formed with

page_text: tongues on its inner walls, a base-plate at right angles to said semi-circular body,
standard bearings on each end of said base-plate, in combination with a sewing-
head housing having vertical recesses matching the tongues of the bifurcated
front of the centerhead and secured therein, whereby the sewing-head housing is
supported in overhanging relation to the front end of the centerhead for the
purpose stated.
17. A centerhead structure for sewing machines adapted to contain and support
the operating mechanism and having a screw-stem, in combination with a screw-ring
engaging said stem, an expansible hollow cylindrical base support on which said.
ring is free to be swivelled and forming a walled-guide for said stem, and a device
for clamping said guide-walls upon said screw stem, substantially as described.
18. In a shoe-sewing machine, a hollow standard and a hollow screw-stem, in
combination with a centerhead structure for containing the operative mechanism
and a screw-ring upon said screw-stem having a seat upon the open top of said
standard, substantially as described.
19. The combination with a needle, of a lipped lever arranged to operate in the
channel of the sole to feed the shoe, and mechanism for imparting to the lipped
end of said lever a movement at right angles to the path of the needle and an
outward oblique movement away from the bottom of the sole-channel substantially
as described for the purpose stated.
20. A feed device for shoe-sewing machines comprising a vertically-rocking
lever having a channel-lip, and a horizontally-rocking lever for imparting a
sidewise movement to said feed-lever simultaneously with its vertical rocking
movement, in combination with operating connections for said levers, whereby the
said channel-lip is caused to travel in a saw-tooth like path.
21. A channel feed device for sewing machines consisting of the two levers
constructed and connected substantially as herein-described, in combination with
cams for separately operating the connected levers simultaneously, whereby the
lever part having the feed-lip is caused to describe a zig-zag path in relation to
the bottom of the channel.
22. A feed-device for shoe-sewing machines comprising a vertically-rocking
lever having a channel-lip and a horizontal-swinging lever for imparting a sidewise
movement to said channel-lip simultaneously with its vertical movement, a cam
and spring for operating said vertically-rocking lever and cams for imparting
sidewise movements to said lever, for the purpose stated.
23. A feed-device for shoe-sewing machines comprising a vertically-rocking
lever having a channel-lip and mounted upon a pivot-bearing having side-hole
axial wear-pins, and an adjusting wear-screw terminating in one of said wear-pins,
a horizontal swinging lever having a pin entering said side-hole between said
axial pins for imparting a lateral movement to said channel-lip simultaneously
with its vertical movements in combination with operating connections for said
levers, substantially as described.
24. In a shoe-sewing machine, a feed-device comprising a vertically-rocking
lever having a channel-lip, and a horizontal swinging lever for imparting a
sidewise movement to said channel-lip simultaneously with its vertical movements
and having a pair of rolls in combination with a spring and a cain for imparting to
said lever its vertical rocking movements, and separate cams for operating the
lever having the pair of rolls, substantially, as described, for the purpose stated.
25. The combination with the sewing-head and a barbed needle, of a feed-
device, mechanism for imparting to said feed-device a vertically rocking and a
lateral reciprocating movement and an adjustable stop 79, arranged to limit the
upward movement of the feed-lever while the needle is about to enter the shoulder
of the sole.
26. In a shoe-sewing machine, a feed-device comprising a vertically-rocking lever
having a feed-lip at one end, a roll at its other end and a fulcrum-pivot-pin
between these points, and a horizontal lever loosely engaging said fulcrum-pin,
and having a pair of rolls at its other end, cams for operating said levers said

page_text: cams being so timed that the first-named lever has vertical and sidewise simultaneous
movements imparted to it describing a triangular path.
27. The combination with a feed-device, of a back-gage an arm 43 connected
therewith, a spring 45 connected to move said gage rearward and a cam 40 adapted
to move said back-gage outward toward the needle and to lock and to hold it in
position for supporting the work while the stitch is being tightly drawn, substantially
as described.
28. The combination with a needle, a feed-device and a back-gage, of a device
for operating said gage consisting of the arm 41, a rock-pin 42 the adjustable
arm 43 upon the latter having the roll 44, a cam 40 constructed to move said gage
outward and to lock it and a spring for retracting said gage, substantially as
described.
29. The combination with a slide-rest, of a locking device therefor consisting of
a friction block 49 seated upon said slide, a lever 50 seated upon said friction
block, a spring 51 upon the free end of said lever, a lever 54 having a screw
abutting against the free end of the lever 50, and the cam 57 for operating the
said levers, substantially as described.
30. The combination with a slide-rest and its projecting spring, with a locking
device for said slide rest consisting of the friction-block 49, the lever 50 crossing
upon said friction-block, and the lever 54 arranged on the side of the centerhead,
an adjustable screw 58 in the end of said lever 54 supporting the end of said
lever 50, a spring 51 upon the end of the latter lever, and a cam 57 for releasing
the pressure of said spring, substantially as described.
31. In a shoe-sewing machine, the back-gage and the slide-rest combined with
an independent locking cam for each so timed as to maintain the lock of the
back-gage, a longer time than the lock for the slide-rest, for the purpose stated.
32. In a shoe-sewing machine, the combination of the two feed-levers, the
one 26 having the channel-lip, and the sliding bearing-pin 74 thereof having the
circumferential recess, the other lever 70 having the più 71 engaging said recess
and the pair of rolls 712, the cam 63, and the pair of cams 72 for operating the
feed-lip in the way and for the purpose stated.
33. The combination with a curved barbed needle, of a feed-device consisting of
a vertically rocking bell-crank lever having a channel-lip at one end, a horizontal
face-cam for operating its other end, and a horizontal rocking lever connected
with the horizontal pivot bearing of said vertically-rocking lever, and a pair of
vertical face-cams for vibrating the other end of said horizontal rocking lever,
whereby the vertically-rocking lever is caused to have simultaneously a movement
in each of two directions thus imparting to the channel-lip a movement in a
triangular path in the way and for the purpose stated.
34. The combination of a barbed needle and a looper-arm with a spring
connected and adapted by its torsional force to maintain upon said arm a lateral
pressure in one direction, and a cam adapted to move said arm in the opposite
direction, whereby said looper arm is positively operated in one direction sidewise
and is free to yield in the opposite direction in the event of striking the needle,
substantially as described.
35. The combination with a barbed-needle, of a hanging looper-arm, a rock-rod
therefor, and a coiled spring on said rod connected to maintain thereon a force
both of tension and of torsion whereby to cushion the looper-arm in the event of
its coming in contact with the needle, and means for moving said rod, substantially
as described.
36. The combination with a hanging looper-arm, a horizontal rock-rod on which
it is mounted, a pair of rolls mounted in a cross-head loosely fitted on said rod, and
a pendent roll-arm fixed on said rock-rod, of a cam-cylinder engaging said rolls, a
face-cam on one side of said cylinder engaging said roll-arm, and a spring on said
rock-rod connecting the latter with a fixed part of the machine, for operating the
looper in the way and for the purpose stated.
37. The combination with a hanging looper arm, a horizontal rock-rod on which

page_text: it is mounted having a pair of rolls mounted in a cross-head loosely fitted on said
rod, and a pendent roll-arm fixed on said rock-rod, of cams for engaging said rolls,
a spring on said rock-rod connecting the latter with a fixed part of the machine,
and means for adjusting the looper-arm in and out in relation to the needle,
substantially as described.
38. In a shoe-sewing machine, a looper device comprising a horizontal rock-rod,
an arm hanging from one end thereof terminating in a looper-finger, a spring coiled
on said rod connected for rocking it in one direction, and for moving it forward, a
pair of rolls carried by a cross-head loosely mounted on said rod, and a roll-
carrying arm fixed upon and depending from said rod for rocking said rod in a
direction opposite to that given to it by said spring, the said pair of rolls being
operated to move said rod rearward against the tension of the spring, whereby the
said looper is caused to describe a circle around the needle, substantially as
described.
39. The combination in a shoe-sewing machine, of a horizontal rock-rod having
a hanging looper-arm at its front end, its other end terminating in a screw-stem, a
bearing-sleeve enclosing said screw-stem, a loose cross-head on said rod having a
pair of rolls and abutting against the inner end of the said sleeve, jam-nuts
abutting against the other end of said sleeve, a spring connecting said rod to a
fixed part of the machine, a pendent arm fixed on said rock-rod and suitable
cams for operating said rolls, and pendent arm in the way and for the purpose
stated.
40. The combination of the centerhead and the sewing-head structures, and an
oscillating curved barbed needle, with a rod arranged above the needle in fixed
bearings at its front end in the sewing-head, and its rear end in the centerhead and
having a looper arm depending in front of the sewing-head, and suitable mechanism
connecting said rod between said fixed bearings for giving it both a longitudinal
and a rocking movement for the purpose stated.
41. In a shoe-sewing machine, the looper-device the needle-carrier and the crank
connecting pitman-rod severally arranged in a vertical plane and longitudinally
central of the machine, the looper-carrying device being over the pitman-rod and
the needle-carrier and having its looper arm depending in front of the latter
substantially as described.
42. The combination with the centerhead and the sewing-head, of a rod mounted
horizontally in bearings in each and projecting from both at each end having
depending looper-arm fixed on its front end and a depending arm fixed between its
bearings, a spring coiled on said rod fixed thereto, and to the sewing-head for
forcing said rod outward and said arms sidewise in one direction and suitable
mechanism for forcing said rod inward and said arms sidewise in the opposite
direction substantially as described.
43. In a shoe-sewing machine, the combination of a looper-arm carried by and
depending from a horizontal rod, with mechanism for imparting to said rod both a
longitudinal and a rocking movement, means for adjusting said rod longitudinally,
and a curved barbed needle, substantially as described.
44. In a shoe-sewing machine, the looper-arm carried by and depending from a
horizontal rod, a pair of rolls carried by a cross-head mounted loosely on said rod,
a roll-arm fixed on said rod, and a spring coiled thereon connected to give both a
longitudinal and a rotary movement to said rod, in combination with cams for
engaging said pair of rolls and a cam for engaging said roll-arm, whereby the
looper-arm is caused to have a revolving motion in relation to the needle,
substantially in the way described.
45. In a shoe-sewing machine, the combination of a barbed needle, the rock-rod
mounted in fixed bearings at each end, having a depending looper-arm outside of
ts front bearing and a depending arm between said bearings, with a cam for
engaging said latter arm to vibrate the looper to the right, a feed-lever device an.
cam for moving it laterally in the same direction as the looper, the action of sail
cams being timed so as to cause both the looper-arm and the feed-lever device to

page_text: move at the same time immediately after the stitch has been completed and
thereby prevent irregular feed and undue strain upon the thread, as described.
46. The combination of the centerhead and the sewing-head mounted on the
front thereof, the needle-carrier, the feed-device and the back-gage arranged in
the sewing-head, with a rod arranged above the said devices in fixed bearings in
the sewing-head and in the centerhead and having a looper-arm depending in front
of said device, and suitable mechanism arranged between said fixed bearings for
imparting to said rod both a rocking and a sliding movement in the way
described.
47. In a shoe-sewing machine, a barbed needle-carrier, means to actuate it, a
horizontal rod mounted in fixed bearings in a plane vertically above the needle-
carrier, a looper-arm depending from said rod in front of said needle-carrier, a
spring connected with and coiled on said rod, fastened to a fixed frame part and
acting to constantly move the looper-arm both to one side and longitudinally toward
the front, and a depending arm on said rod in rear of the needle-carrier in combina-
tion with cams for moving said rod longitudinally rearward, and a cam engaging
said inner arm to move the looper-arm to the other side against the tension of said
spring and means for adjusting said arm longitudinally to set the looper in relation
to the needle, substantially as described.
48. A loop-forming mechanism for sewing machines consisting essentially of a
looper-arm depending from a horizontal rod, and means for imparting to said rod a
horizontal and a rocking movement simultaneously, consisting of a spring which
acts both by tension and by torsion to move the rod to the front and to rock it in
one direction, and cams constructed to act upon said rod to both move it rearward
and to rock it in the opposite direction, whereby the looper-finger is caused to
describe a circular path.
49. In a shoe-sewing machine, the combination with a curved barbed needle, of
a looper-arm depending from a horizontal rock-rod, and mechanism for causing
the looper-finger to describe a full circular path around the needle, consisting
of cams acting on said rod to move it longitudinally in one direction and to
rock it in one direction, and a spring which co-acts with such cams by its force
upon the looper-rod acting in two directions to move it longitudinally in the
opposite direction and to rock it in the opposite direction from those movements
given said rod by the cams, whereby the said looper-rod is caused to complete
such circular path during its forward and rearward movements with respect to
the needle.
Dated this 14th dox of At 1001
W. P. THOMPSON & BOULT,
Agents for the Applicants.