IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS, SHOES, AND OTHER COVERINGS FOR THE FEET, PARTS OF WHICH IMPROVEMENTS ARE ALSO APPLICABLE TO SEWING MACHINES TO BE EMPLOYED FOR OTHER PURPOSES."
Year: 1877

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Hermann Charles Gros, of South Hackney, in the
County of Middlesex, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR
APPARATUS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS, SHOES, AND OTHER COVERINGS
FOR THE FEET, PARTS OF WHICH IMPROVEMENTS ARE ALSO APPLICABLE TO
SEWING MACHINES TO BE EMPLOYED FOR OTHER PURPOSES."
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Hermann Charles Gros at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 6th October 1877..
HERMANN CHARLES GROS, of South Hackney, in the County of Middlesex.
"IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS,
SHOES, AND OTHER COVERINGS FOR THE FEET, PARTS OF WHICH IMPROVEMENTS
ARE ALSO APPLICABLE TO SEWING MACHINES TO BE EMPLOYED FOR OTHER
PURPOSES."
My Invention relates chiefly to mechanism for sewing what are known as turned
boots and shoes, and for sewing the welts to the uppers of boots and shoes, and also
for stitching the soles to the welts where a curved barbed needle is used, either alone
or in conjunction with an awl; and it has especial reference to that description of
machinery in respect of which Letters Patent were granted to William Robert Lake
bearing date October 2nd, 1867, No. 2779, and August 4th, 1870, No. 2173.
In machines for the sewing of turned work and sewing the welts to the
uppers of boots and shoes it is desirable that the following conditions should be
fulfilled-
1st. That the machine should be capable of sewing any description of soles or
in-soles however light or fleshy they may be.
2nd. That the welt seam should be in such a position in respect to the edge of
the in-sole that a proper "feather" is obtained, that is to say, that the bevelled
edge of the in-sole does not unduly overlap the seam so as to offer the possibility of
being turned down to shew the "grinning" of the stitches, while it is at the same
i Pavice 101
A

page_text: time desirable that the stitches should not lie too close to the edge of the in-soles,
which has the effect of giving an unduly broad appearance to the bottom of the
boot when finished.
It is further desirable that in stitching the soles to the welts an awl which works
concentric with the needle should pierce the hole through which the needle has to
pass, and that this should be done in the same machine in which turned work and
welts are sewn without in any way disturbing the mechanism of the machine, an
object which has hitherto not been practically obtained.
Finally, it is desirable to have such a practical arrangement as will admit of the
sewing of work of any required shape or curve without any extra difficulty to the
person operating the machine.
The mechanism, herein-after described and which forms the subject of my
Invention, is designed in part with a view to obviate all these difficulties or to
achieve the desired objects in the most practical manner, whilst other parts of my
Invention consist of peculiar mechanism for obtaining certain motions.
In carrying out my Invention I employ an awl and needle, or a needle alone,
having a radius of, say, about two inches (that being a medium between the two
extreme sizes ordinarily adopted, whereby I obtain such a curve as will most
accurately pierce the soles and in-soles in the same direction as if the operation
were performed by hand, and at the same time secure sufficient space for the carrying
out of other parts of my Invention.
The awl and needle, having their points opposite to each other, are mounted
respectively upon oscillating stocks working around a common axis, as described in
the said Specification of William Robert Lake, No. 277967, but each of the stocks
receives its motion by means of a roller and of a cam groove which is cut or formed
in a tail end attached to each stock, or, by preference, made of one piece with the
same, such cam grooves being contained partly within and partly without the circle
of revolution of the awl and needle, and approaching the centre of the same.
The roller, which is closely fitted in the cam groove, is attached to and receives
its motion from either a crank lever which is actuated by an eccentric cam and
which has its fulcrum between the axis of this cam and the axis of the awl and
needle, or from a revolving disc, the roller being placed eccentrically upon the same,
and the disc receiving its continuous revolving motion by means of gearing from
the main driving shaft of the machine, and having its axis in close proximity to the
common axis of the awl and needle. By these means not only a sufficiently long
stroke of the awl and needle are obtained, but this motion has the peculiar
advantage that while the needle (after having drawn out the loop) is moving from
its furthest outward position towards the stock to be pierced the driving roller is
in its position nearest to the centre of the needle, and causes the motion to be per-
formed quickly with a small leverage, no special power being required for this
function, whereas by the time the needle has nearly reached the work to be pierced
the roller is travelling towards its position furthest from the axis of the needle, pro-
ducing a slower motion with a longer leverage, the greatest possible power being
now required while the needle passes through the work, whilst also a slow motion is
required and imparted during the time of the retiring motion of the needle, during
which the latter receives the thread from the looper.
Both the awl and the needle stocks work around a common hollow axis, which is
supported by a bracket attached to the front of the frame of the machine, and both
stocks may receive their motion from one and the same roller, which may be
carried by either a lever or a disc.
When a disc is employed the roller may be fitted in a radial slot therein, and be
moved automatically to and from the centre of the disc, according to the variations
in the thickness of work to be sewn, so as to cause the needle to draw a longer
loop in thick substances, and a shorter loop in thin substances.
I prefer to remove the awl from the machine during the operation of sewing
welts or sewing "round turns," so as to use the needle both as the piercing and
sewing instrument, as described in the said former Specification of William Robert

page_text: Lake, No. 217370; but this I effect in such a manner that the needle enters the
in-sole on what is termed the inside channel first, so that the whole piercing force
of the needle is bearing against a stationary welt or back edge guide which is
rigidly attached to the bracket which supports the awl and needle stocks, and also
against an auxilary guage having a broad surface, such as described in the said
Specification of William Robert Lake, No. 217370.
It has been found, in the practical operation of the machine now generally in use
in which the needles commence to enter the work to be sewn from the opposite
side, that is to say, strikes against the outside channel first, that in so doing the
piercing force of the needle is solely to be resisted by the channel guage or feed dog
which rests in the inside channel, and against what is termed the "between
substance" is pressed; and this substance, being generally of a loose nature, it is
liable to be nearly torn away before even the needle has pierced a hole.
With the view of more completely obviating this defect I employ, in addition to
the parts before mentioned, a vertically adjustable top rest or middle gauge attached
to the awl and needle stock bracket. This top rest is so arranged as to reach down
upon the "between substance," and against it is continually bearing the upward
pressure of the jack, upon which is mounted the work to be sewn, so that, instead
of this pressure being resisted by the feed dog or channel gauge lying in the inside
channel, in which case (especially where the inside channel of a thin sole or
in-sole is cut close to the grain), the feed dog or channel gauge is frequently forced
through the sole or in-sole, whereas it is obvious that with my arrangement this is
impossible.
Also I combine with the rigid back edge guide and the top rest a combined
channel gauge and feed dog (herein-after termed a feed gauge), which, in addition
to having an oscillating out-and-inward motion and a reciprocating horizontal
sliding motion, such as is described in the said Specification of W. R. Lake, No. 21737,
is also made vibrating or yielding to the insinuosities of the work by a spring
pressure.
The spring is constructed as part of the feed gauge itself, which is folded or bent
over so as to form two legs, and is screwed against a corresponding surface formed
on the feed gauge lever, such surface being in a radial direction, or nearly so, to the
awl and needle axes, the spring is completely bent over at the inner end, which is
nearest to the awl and needle centre, whilst its outer end forms the part of the feed
gauge, which reaches into the inside channel.
In lieu of the preceding arrangement I may make the feed gauge in two parts,
providing the same with a hinge on its inner end towards the centre of the awl and
needle, and placing a spring between the legs of the angular gauge thus formed; I
also provide an eccentric stop towards the outer end of one of the legs of the feed
gauge, constructed according to either arrangement, which stop is employed for the
purpose of limiting the motion of the other or yielding leg, and is capable of being
rotated on its axis, so as to vary the motion or degree of yielding of which the said
leg is susceptible, the stop being retained by a tension spring in any adjusted position.
The adjustment of this eccentric disc is effected under ordinary circumstances by
hand, but it may be obtained automatically if found desirable.
It will be readily seen that, while I employ a rigid back edge guide and top rest,
the above-described arrangement of the feed gauge will admit of the same yielding
freely to different substances and insinuosities of the work; thus, while in previous
arrangements with a rigid feed dog and yielding back gauge, the striking of the
needle from the inside was not absolutely practicable, as no substantial support was
offered to the piercing power of the needle. I achieve this object in a highly
satisfactory manner by the several arrangements and combinations herein-before
described.
In placing the feed gauge, constructed as above mentioned, radially to the centre
of the awl and needle axis, it will be seen that its point on yielding does not deviate
from the path of the needle. The feed gauge is attached to a feed lever, which has
its fulcrum on the lower of two bars, the top one of which is placed in a vertical
19

page_text: plane, or nearly so, above the lower bar. Both these bars have a horizontal recipro-
cating sliding motion, the lower one having its bearing through the tubular bearing
of the awl and needle stocks, and the top bar in a bearing attached to the awl and
needle stock bracket. Both bars are at their respective ends connected with each
other by means of vertical connecting rods, so that the whole arrangement forms a
parallelogram having a horizontal reciprocating sliding motion. This feed lever, whilst
being allowed to swing freely around the axis of the lower bar, is fixed between 2
shoulders, so that it has no independent lateral motion on the lower bar, but travels
backwards or forwards in conformity with the motion of such lower bar. The
horizontal reciprocating sliding motion is imparted to the parallel bars by means of
a roller working in a slotted piece arranged in a diagonal direction to the two bars,
such slotted piece being attached to one of the upright connecting bars, and made
adjustable, so that, by changing its diagonal direction, the length of the feed motion
or stitch may be varied. The adjustment of the slotted piece is also so arranged that'
the feed gauge lever, in its forward motion, will always reach a fixed point, whereas
only its back ward motion changes in the distance traversed. The roller, which
works in the said slot, is attached to one end of a crank lever, which has its
fulcrum on a common axis with the crank levers, moving the awl and needle
stock, and receives its motion from a cam attached to the main driving shaft.
The feed lever receives its reciprocating revolving motion for the purpose of
causing the feed gauge to grasp and release the work during the process of sewing
by means of a horizontally sliding bar which connects the same with a circum-
ferential cam on the main driving shaft.
This connecting bar has its bearings also attached to the bracket carrying the awl
and needle stocks, and in such a manner that while the bearing nearest to the
periphery of the cam is oscillating around a vertical pivot the other bearing is
stationary and slotted, so that while the feed lever traverses horizontally backwards
and forwards, the horizontal connecting bar is permitted to follow the same freely
in its motion, at the same time admitting of the roller which rests against the
periphery of the cam to remain always in the same position, or nearly so, in relation
to the horizontal motion of the feed lever.
The horizontal connecting bar is provided with a shoulder or fixed washer,
between which and the slotted bearing is fitted a spiral spring for the purpose of
constantly pressing the connecting bar against the periphery of the cam so as to
cause it to follow its shape, carrying the feed lever with it as may be required by
the function of the feed motion.
I prefer to make the said connecting bar adjustable in length so as to admit
thereby of a variation in the position of the feed gauge with respect to the
stationary back-edge guide, and adapt the parts for the reception of the different
substances to be sewn.
The
The thread is conducted from any usual or suitable apparatus to a looper which
is placed upon an axis having its bearings in the main frame of the machine, and
situate transversely to the main driving shaft. This looper has a compound sliding
and reciprocating rotary motion which is obtained in the following manner.
sliding motion is imparted to the same by a double armed lever also placed upon a
common axis with the crank lever, which actuates the awl and needle stocks, and
reaching into the groove of a roller fixed upon the looper axis, whilst its other end
is acted upon by a cam on the main shaft.
The reciprocating rotary motion of the looper is effected by means of one or two
inwardly yielding pins which are attached to the shaft or axis of the looper, and
which fit in one or two spiral or coiled grooves or slots, formed in a tubular bracket
or sleeve, the latter being placed around the shaft or axis and attached to the
machine frame. These pins and slots cause the shaft or axis by its forward motion
partly to revolve around its own axis, and where only one pin and slot is used to
return again.by its backsliding motion in the same path, whereas, where two pins
and slots are used the looper path of the retiring motion will be changed by the first
pin on arriving at the most forward point, being drawn out of gearby means of its

page_text: inward yielding motion, whilst the second pin is caused to yield upwards and enter
the second groove, which will force the desired guide for a different course in the
retiring motion.
In lieu of the preceding arrangement I may impart an independent reciprocating
rotary motion to the looper by means of a toothed lever segment, having its fulcrum
on the back of the machine frame, such segment gearing into a toothed wheel
attached to the looper axis, and operated at its opposite end by a grooved cam
carried on the main shaft.
By means of the compound sliding and reciprocating rotary motion herein-before
described, the looper will always be situate either at a distance from the work, or
above and within the path of the awl and needle, that is to say, it will always be
in such a position as to obviate all liability of its coming into contact with the
uppers of the work to be sewn.
For example, while the needle and awl perform
their function, the point of the looper carrying the thread is removed out of the
path of both, lying below and away from the point of the needle when the latter
has pierced the stock; the looper now travels forward at the same time, commencing
its rotary motion, which it performs in such a manner that its point passes between
the awl and needle just at the moment when both have left the largest possible
space between their respective points; the eye of the looper then passes beyond
the point of the needle sufficiently to lay the thread in the barb of the same, after
which it rests in this place until the needle has drawn the thread through the work,
when it will return to its original position.
I also employ a "cast-off" which is formed in one piece with the needle shield,
but slotted tangentially to the circle of the opening of the needle shield which
encloses the needle, the slot imparting to the cast-off the nature of a spring which
pressing against the surface of the needle in which the barb is cut. This compound
needle and barb shield is fitted with a dovetail into a projection from a lever which
is actuated by and receives its motion from the same or a similar mechanism to that
employed for moving the awl and needle stocks, and has its fulcrum on one axis
with the latter.
The barb and needle shield is held in its recess by means of a screw and eccentric
washer, it being so arranged that when the screw is loosened and the eccentric
washer turned in one direction the dovetailed part of the barb and needle shield is
free to pass out and into the recess, whereas when the said dovetailed part is in its
position in the recess by the act of turning the washer in the opposite direction it
will be caused to project beyond the dovetailed part, and the screw being then
tightened the shield will be held firmly in its place.
It will be observed that in the arrangements and combinations of apparatus,
herein-before described, the whole of the actuating levers for the sewing mechanism
are mounted upon one and the same axis, whereby increased facility in the
manufacture of the machine is obtained.
The auxiliary gauge, which is provided with a broad perpendicular face as in the
ordinary manner, is attached to or forms one end of a shaft, which passes through the
centre line or nearly so of the machine frame, having its bearing therein in a transverse
direction to the main shaft below the cams attached to the same. The shaft of the gauge
is provided with a loose collar on its end extending within the frame, which collar has
a flange in the direction of the axis of the shaft, and is slotted on one side through
the centre of the said flange; the latter rests with its lower surface upon a bearing
firmly attached to the frame of the machine, whilst upon its upper surface acts
a lever which presses upon the flange, so as to compress the collar and lock the shaft
when the needle is performing its function, whereas the collar is released when the
auxiliary gauge is to yield to the shape of the stock to be sewn. The motion of the
lever is obtained from a cain carried on the inain shaft.
According to a modification of this arrangement employ a wedge carried and
operated by a suitable arrangement of levers, and arranged in connection with an
incline formed upon the said shaft and a slot therein, so that when the wedge is
actuated at the requisite period it will be caused to enter the slot, and by coming

page_text: into contact with the incline on the shaft will effect the locking of the gauge,
the latter being released and drawn back under the action of a spring on the
withdrawal of the wedge, to be again locked at the desired time, and so in
succession.
I also propose to employ a tack drawer or pincers, either stationary or operated
automatically by drawing or lifting mechanism, and constructed so as to extract the
tacks with which the upper is lasted to the in-sole during the process of sewing,
whereby the expenditure of time and money involved in the use of copper tacks is
obviated.
Another part of my Invention consists of a suspended jack (for carrying the
last) arranged and combined in the manner herein-after described.
The jack is carried in a support having two upwardly extending arms, to which
are respectively attached, at a point, at or about on a level with the work,
the two ends of a suspending rope or cord; the two portions of this rope are first
carried upwards one at each side, and cach is passed round one of two overhead
pulleys capable of a horizontal swivelling motion in addition to the rotatory motion
on their axes, From these pulleys the two portions of the rope descend and pass
round two or more sets of pulleys, arranged at suitable angles, below which the
bend of the rope forming the union of such two portions partially encircles a single
central pulley carrying a counterweight, the latter being situate within the stand
of the machine. This apparatus, which is suspended by one and the same rope, has
the effect of maintaining the work in contact with the sewing mechanism without
the aid of the operator, leaving him free to turn the work about as required,
according to its shape or contour, as the operation proceeds.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said Hermann Charles Gros in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
6th April 1878.
HERMANN CHARLES GROS, of South Hackney, in the County of Middlesex.
"IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF
BOOTS, SHOES, AND OTHER COVERINGS FOR THE FEET, PARTS OF WHICH IMPROVE-
MENTS ARE ALSO APPLICABLE TO SEWING MACHINES TO BE EMPLOYED FOR OTHER
PURPOSES."
My said Invention relates chiefly to mechanism for sewing what are known as
"turned" boots and shoes, and for sewing the welts to the uppers of boots and
shoes, and also for stitching the soles to the welts where a curved barbed needle is
used, either alone or in conjunction with an awl; and it has special reference to
that description of machinery in respect of which Letters Patent were granted to
William Robert Lake, bearing date October Second, One thousand eight hundred
and sixty-seven, No. 2779, and August Fourth, One thousand eight hundred and
seventy, No. 2173.
In machines for the sewing of "turned" work, and sewing the welts to the
uppers of boots and shoes, it is desirable that the following conditions should be
fulfilled:
First. That the machine should be capable of sewing any description of soles or
in-soles however light or fleshy they may be.
Second. That the welt seam should be in such a position in respect to the edge
of the in-sole that a proper "feather" is obtained; that is to say, that the bevelled
edge of the in-sole does not unduly overlap the seam so as to offer the possibility of
being turned down to shew the "grinning" of the stitches, while it is at the same
time desirable that the stitches should not be too close to the edge of the in-soles,
which has the effect of giving an unduly broad appearance to the bottom of the
boot when finished.
Third. It is further desirable that in stitching the soles to the welts an awl
which works copcentrically with the needle should form or pierce the hole through
which the needle is to pass, whereas in sewing "turned" seams and welts the awl
should be dispensed with; and it is also desirable that the sewing of "turned
seams and "welts," as well as the stitching of the soles to the welts, should be per-
formed in one and the same machine without in any way disturbing the mechanism
thereof, which object, although precisely aimed at, has hitherto not been practically
attained.
"
Fifth. It is further desirable to have such a practical arrangement as will admit
of the sewing of work ou lasts of any required shape or curve without any extra
difficulty to the person operating the machine.
The mechanism herein-after described, and which forms the subject of my said
Invention, is designed in part with a view to obviate all these difficulties, or to
achieve the desired objects in the most practical manner; whilst other parts of my
said Invention consist of peculiar mechanism for obtaining certain motions for
facilitating the operations of the machine.
And in order that my said Invention may be fully understood I shall now
proceed more particularly to describe the same, and for that purpose shall refer to
the several Figures on the annexed Sheets of Drawings, the same letters of reference
indicating corresponding parts in all the Figures.
Figure 1, Sheet 1 of the accompanying Drawings, is a diagram illustrating the
system which has hitherto been chiefly employed in sewing machines of a similar
character.
Figures 1 a, 1 b, and 1 c are diagrams of the curve of the needle, and are designed
to furnish indications of the radius which is and is not suitable for the production
of work most nearly resembling that produced by hand, the former Figure

page_text: illustrating the radius which I use, and the two latter Figures (1 b and 1 c) illus-
trating those which have been previously used.
Figures 2, 2a, 3, and 3 a show the parts and mechanisin which hold and feed the
work; and also the apparatus, herein-after described, for extracting the lasting
tacks from the work during the process of sewing, Figure 2 being a side elevation,
Figure 2a a plan, Figure 3 a front elevation, and Figure 3 a a detail, herein-after
.referred to.
Figures 4, 4a, 4b, 4 c, 4 d, 4 e, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10; 11, and 12 (Sheet 2), illustrate
the methods of working the awl and needle, and also the mode of carrying the
thread to and placing the same in the barb of the needle, Figure 4 being a side
sectional elevation of the apparatus, and Figure 5 a front sectional elevation of a
portion of the same, whilst the remaining Figures are details of the various parts in
different positions.
Figures 13 and 14 illustrate respectively in sectional and side elevation modi-
fications of the awl and needle motion, partly applicable to ordinary wax thread
sewing machines.
Figure 15 (Sheet 3) represents a side elevation of the machine complete, with
the apparatus for holding the work to the machine; Figure 16 is a front elevation,
and Figure 17 a plan of the same, both corresponding to Figure 15.
Figure 18 shews a modification of the locking motion for the auxiliary guage,
herein-after referred; to.
In carrying out my said Invention I employ a curved awl o and a curved barbed
needlen, both having a radius of, say, about 2 inches (as shewn in Figure 1 a), that
being the medium between the two extreme sizes (Figures 16 and 1 c) ordinarily
adopted, whereby I obtain such a curve as will most accurately pierce the soles and
in-soles in the same direction as if the operation were performed by hand, and at
the same time secure sufficient space for the carrying out of other parts of my said
Invention.
The awl and needle having their points opposite to each other are mounted
respectively upon oscillating stocks and N, working round a common axis, as
described in the said Specification of William Robert Lake, No. 2779,7, and which
consists of the tubular bearing X 1, which is supported at both ends by the bracket
B1 screwed to the top frame B of the machine. This top frame, which forms the
bearings for the whole of the sewing mechanism, is screwed upon a column A of
suitable height, so as to bring the sewing mechanism up to the required elevation
for the operator working the machine.
The awl stock O and the needle stock N receive their motion by means of a
roller R and of cam grooves, which are respectively cut or formed in tail ends
attached one to each stock, or made in one piece with the same, the tail end of the
awl stock being marked Q, and its cam groove 3, and the tail end of the needle
stock marked P, and its cam groove 4.
In the example illustrated in my Drawings the tail end Q of the awl stock O is
made in one piece therewith, whereas the tail end P of the needle stock N is attached
to its respective stock, the latter being formed with a slot 5, through which passes
a screw pin 6, securing together the two parts P, N, whilst admitting of their
adjustment in relation to each other. This arrangement enables the position of the
needle stock N to be varied relatively to its tail end P when it is required to stitch
the soles to the welts after having sewn
" turned seams or welts, the stock N
being turned bodily round its axis of motion X 1 by moving the slot 5 along or
over the pin 6, so as to bring the needle into the most convenient position for either
operation.
"
In Figure 4 the needle stock is shewn in the proper position for sewing "turned"
seams or welts, the work to be sewn being situate in the vertical plane passing
through the needle axis.
In Figure 9 the needle stock is represented in the proper position for stitching
the soles on to the welts, the work now being situate in an angular position.
If desired the tail end Q of the awl stock Ō may be made separate from the latter,

page_text: and attached thereto in a similar manner to the tail end P of the needle stock N,
and for a like purpose.
The cam grooves 3, 4, in the stocks O, N, respectively are arranged in such a
position with reference to the circle of revolution 43 of both the awl and needle
that they are contained, as shewn, partly within and partly without that circle, and
approaching the centre of the same.
The roller R, which is fitted in the cam grooves, is attached to and receives its
motion from a revolving disc S, being placed eccentrically upon the same and the
disc, the axis 8 of which is arranged in close proximity to the common axis X1 of
the awl and needle, receives its continuous revolving motion by means of gearing
from the inaiu driving shaft E.
In order to produce the said revolving motion I have adopted or chosen as the
most efficient and simplest arrangement a driving wheel S2, fitted upon the main
driving shaft E, with an equal number of teeth to those cut in the revolving disc S,
and an intermediate toothed wheel S¹, transmitting the motion from the driving
wheel S 2 on the main shaft E to the revolving disc S, by which means I obtain (as
will be readily seen) one revolution of the revolving disc to one revolution of the
main driving shaft.
In Figure 14 I bave shewn a modification of this arrangement, according to which
I may place the roller R upon the arm 7 of a crank lever S³, having its fulcrum at
SI, and the other arm 8 of which is operated by an eccentric C, the said fulcrum
S1 being situate between the axis of the eccentric and the axis of the awl and
needle.
By means of the arrangement above described, not only a sufficiently long stroke
of the awl and needle is obtained, but this motion has the peculiar advantage that
while the needle (after having drawn out the loop) is moving from its farthest out-
ward position towards the stock to be pierced (as shewn in Figure 4), the driving
roller R is in its position nearest to the centre of the needle, and causes the motion
to be performed quickly with a small leverage, no special power being required for
this function, whereas by the time the needle has nearly reached the work to be
pierced (that is to say, when it is in the position shewn in Figures 7, 8, and 9), the
roller is travelling towards its position farthest from the axis of the needle, producing
a slower motion with a longer leverage, the greatest possible power being now
required while the needle passes through the work, whilst a slow motion also is
required and imparted during the time of the retiring motion of the needle, during
which the latter receives the thread from the looper.
The awl stock O and the needle stock N may receive their motion respectively
from 2 rollers, each mounted upon a separate revolving disc or oscillating lever, but
I prefer the arrangement illustrated and herein-before described, in which one roller
only is used for moving both the awl stock and the needle stock simultaneously, or
I may use two rollers upon one and the same roller pin or axis, each adapted for its
special function, or I may use mechanical equivalents for the roller or rollers, and
the disc or lever for operating the stocks by means of the cam grooves cut or formed
in their respective tail ends.
When a disc is employed, the roller may be fitted in a radial slot in the disc in
order to admit of the roller being moved automatically, so as to cause it to approach
the centre of the disc (that is to say, to approach the centre of revolution of the awl
and needle) to a greater or less extent, according to the varying thickness of stock
to be sewn, and thereby draw a longer loop in thick substance, and a shorter loop
in their substance.
But I prefer the equivalent arrangement illustrated (and shewn most clearly in
Figures 11 and 12) in which the bearing Q 2 of the axis s of the disc S is itself fitted
in a slot 9 in the bracket B 1, so as to admit of its being moved automatically
towards and from the centre of revolution of the awl and needle in a similar
manner.
-
The automatic motion is obtained in by means of the following arrangement:-
Upon the common axis X 1 of the awl and needle stocks is fitted a double-armed

page_text: oscillating lever Q, one arm Q1 of which extends down into the inside or upper
channel of the work to be sewn, whilst its other arm q 2 is carried above the axis s
of the disc S, which has its bearing in the slide Q 2 fitted in the slot 9 of the
bracket B1, as before mentioned.
Between the slide Q2 and the arm q 2 works a wedge Q3 which is connected by
a rod c', with an excentric C1, so as to receive a reciprocating to-and-fro motion
therefrom. The wedge Q3 under the action of the excentric C1 is being withdrawn
from between the slide Q2 and the arm q 2 just when the roller R upon the revol-
ving disc S is approaching its highest position away from the centre of revolution
of the awl and needle, leaving the slide Q2 free to receive the impulsion of a
spring q, which tends constantly to press the slide upwards against a stop pin q 4.
When however the roller R is moving in the reverse direction, that is to say, towards
the centre of revolution of the awl and needle, whereby it causes the needle to draw
the loop, the wedge Q 3 is being pressed between the arm q 2 and the slide Q 2, and
causes the slide to move downwards, overcoming the force of the spring q, into
greater or less proximity to the centre of revolution of the awl and needle, according
to the position of the arm q 2, which, as will readily be seen, is controlled by the
arm q of the oscillating lever Q1, and will be situate nearer the centre of revolu-
tion of the awl and needle if thick material is sewn, and at a greater distance there-
from when thinner material is being sewn, thereby varying the length of the loop
to suit the thickness of the material operated upon.
In my Drawing, Figures 11 and 12, the roller R is represented in its to lowest
position; that is to say, in the close proximity to the axis of the awl and needle
stocks.
"
I prefer to remove the awl from the machine during the operation of sewing
welts, or sewing "turns 80 as to use the needle both as the piercing and
sewing instrument, as described in the said former Specification of William
Robert Lake, No. 21737, but this I effect in such a manner that the needle enters
the in-sole in what is termed the "inside channel" (and which is marked c in
my Drawings) first, and I employ a stationary welt or back-edge guide a rigidly
attached to the bracket B 1, and which receives the whole piercing force of the
needle; and in conjunction with the said guide I use an auxiliary guage m (Figure
15) having a broad surface, such as is described in the said Specification of William
Robert Lake, No. 217370.
It has been found in the practical operation of the machines now generally in
use, in which the needle commences to enter the work to be sewn from the opposite
side, that is to say, strikes against the outside channel first, as shewn in Figure 1,
that in so doing the piercing force of the needle is solely to be resisted by the feed
dog or channel guage f 1, which rests on the inside channel and against what is
termed the "between substance" (marked y), and as this substance is generally of a
loose nature, it is liable to be nearly torn away before even the needle has pierced a
hole.
ог
is
With a view of more completely obviating this defect, I employ in addition to
the parts before mentioned a vertically adjustable "top rest"
middle guage b,
attached to the bracket B 1 of the awl and needle stocks. This "
"top rest
arranged so as to extend down upon the "between substance" (3), and against it is
continually bearing the upward pressure of the jack L 4 (Figure 15), upon which is
mounted the work to be sewn, so that instead of this pressure being resisted by the
feed dog or channel gauge, lying in the inside channel, in which case (especially
where the inside channel of a thin sole or in-sole is cut close to the grain) the feed
dog or channel gauge is frequently forced through the sole or in-sole; according to
my arrangement an effective resistance is provided by the top rest, and all upward
pressure is removed from the feed dog, and the liability of injury to the work is
thereby obviated.
I also combine with the rigid back edge guide a and the top rest 6 a combined
channel gauge and feed dog f, herein-after termed a "feed gauge," which, in addition
to having an oscillating out-and-inward motion and a reciprocating horizontal sliding

page_text: motion, such as are described in the said Specification of William Robert Lake, No.
2173,70, is also made vibrating or yielding to the insinuosities of the work by a spring
pressure.
The spring is constructed as part of the feed gauge, which is bifurcated, being
folded or bent over so as to form two branches f2, 3, and is screwed against a
corresponding surface formed on the feed gauge lever F, such surface being in a
radial direction, or nearly so, to the awl and needle axis. The spring is completely
bent over at the inner end f4, which is nearest to the awl and needle axis, whilst
its outer end forms the part f of the feed gauge (that is to say, the feed gauge
proper) which extends into the inside channel c of the work to be sewn.
In lieu of the preceding arrangement, I may make the feed gauge in two parts,
providing the same with a hinge on its inner end, towards the axis of the awl and
needle, and placing a spring between the two branches of the bifurcated angular gauge
thus formed. I also provide an excentric stop towards the outer end of one of the
branches of the feed gauge, constructed according to either arrangement, which stop is
employed for the purpose of limiting the motion of the other or yielding branch,
and is capable of being rotated on its axis so as to vary the motion or degree of
yielding of which the said branch is susceptible, the stop being retained by a tension
spring in any adjusted position.
In my Drawings (Figures 2 and 3) the stop which is marked d is shewn applied
to the branch 3, the axis of the stop being inarked e, and the tension spring d 1.)
The adjustment of this excentric stop is effected under ordinary circumstances by
hand, but it may be obtained automatically if found desirable.
It will be readily seen that while I employ a rigid back edge guide and top rest,
the above-described arrangement of the feed gauge will admit of the same yielding
freely to different substances and to the insinuosities of the work; thus, while
in previous arrangements (as, for example, that illustrated by Figure 1) with a rigid
feed dog f1 and a yielding back gauge a 2, alternately locked and released, the
"striking" and entering of the needle from the inside was not absolutely practicable,
as no substantial support was offered to the piercing power of the needle. I achieve
this object in a higly satisfactory manner by the several arrangements and combi-
'nations herein-before described.
It will be farther seen that in placing the feed gauge f, constructed in the manner
herein-before described, radially to the centre of the awl and needle axis, its point
on yielding does not deviate from the path of the needle, whereby it is enabled to
make its motion freely in the channel of the work to be sewn.
The feed lever F, to which the feed gauge f is attached, has its fulcrum on the
lower bar X of two bars X, Y, the top one (Y) of which is placed in a vertical or
nearly vertical plane, passing through the lower bar X. Both these bars have a
horizontal reciprocating sliding motion, the said lower one (✗) having its bearing in
the tubular bearing X 1 of the awl and needle stocks, and the top bar (Y) in a
bearing attached to the bracket B1 of the awl and needle stocks. Both bars are at
their respective ends connected with each other by means of two vertical connecting
rods y 1 and y 2, so that the whole arrangement forms a parallelogram having bodily
a horizontal reciprocating sliding motion. The feed lever F, whilst being allowed
to swing freely around the lower bar X as an axis, is retained between two shoulders,
so that it has no independent lateral motion on the lower bar, but travels back-
wards or forwards in conformity with the motion of the latter. The horizontal
reciprocating sliding motion is imparted to the parallel bars by means of a roller z l
working in the slot 10 of a slotted piece Z, which is arranged in a diagonal direction
to the two bars, being attached to the upright connecting bar y 1, and being made
adjustable, as herein-after explained, so that by changing its diagonal direction the
length of the horizontal reciprocating sliding motion, or (in other words) the length
of the feed motion or the length of the stitch may be varied.
The adjustment of the slotted piece is also so arranged that the feed gauge lever F
in its forward motion will always arrive at a fixed point, whereas only its backward
motion changes in the distance traversed. This is effected by bringing the lower

page_text: end of the slot 10 in the slotted piece Z as near as possible to the fulcrum 11, around
which the slotted piece is made adjustable, so that the variation of the lower part of
the said slot is reduced to a minimum, and by these means the roller Z1 working in
the said slot 10 in its downward motion brings the parallelogram always as near as
possible in one and the same position, whatever may be the position to which the
diagonal slotted piece is adjusted, whereas by its upward motion it causes the
parallelogram to travel more or less in a horizontal direction, according to the degree
of angle at which the said slotted piece Z is placed. The roller z 1, which works
in the slot 10, is attached to one end of a crank lever Z 1, which, has its falcrum on
the axis 8 1, around which works the intermediate wheel S1 (Figure 4), or the crank
lever S 3 (Figure 14), as the case may be, which imparts the motion to the awl and
needle stocks. The crank lever Z1 receives its motion by means of a second roller
Z 2, filled in and worked by a cam groove 12 in the disc D, the latter being fast
upon the main driving shaft E.
In lieu of using rollers for imparting motion to the diagonal slotted piece Z, and
through it to the parallelogram, mechanical equivalents working in the slot 10 may
be employed.
The reciprocating oscillating motion is imparted to the feed lever F for the purpose
of causing the feed gauge f to alternately grasp and release the work during the
process of sewing, and the said motion is obtained by means of a horizontal sliding
bar G, one end of which is connected to the feed lever F, whilst its other end is
provided with a roller H, which works against a circumferential cam o 1 cut or formed
in the disc D.
The bearings g1 and g 2 of the horizontal sliding bar G are also attached to the
bracket B 1, which carries the awl and needle stocks in such a manner that while
the bearing g 2, that is to say, the nearer to the periphery of the circumferential cam
is oscillating around a vertical pivot 13, the other bearing g 1 is stationary, it being
provided with a slot to admit of the motion of the bar, so that while the feed lever
traverses horizontally backwards and forwards the horizontal sliding bar is per-
mitted to follow the same freely in its motion, and at the same time thus admit of
the roller H, which is in contact with the periphery of the circumferential cam 0 1,
always remaining in the same position or nearly so in relation to the horizontal
inotion of the feed lever F.
The horizontal sliding bar G is also provided with a shoulder or fixed washer 14,
'between which and the slotted bearing g 1 is fitted a spiral spring g for the purpose
of pressing the horizontal sliding bar Ğ against the periphery of the said circum-
ferential cam o 1, so as to cause it to follow its shape, carrying the feed lever F with
it, as may be required for operating the feed.
I prefer to make the connecting bar G adjustable in length so as to admit thereby
of a variation in the position of the feed guage f with respect to the stationary
back edge guide a, and adapt the parts for the reception of the different substances
to be sewn, as well as to provide facilities for moving the feed guage from the
position of sewing "turned" and welt seams to that required when stitching the
soles on to the welts.
The provision for the said adjustment is obtained by making the horizontal
sliding bar G in 3 pieces, videlicit, a piece 15 which receives the feed lever F, a
central piece 16 which is provided with right and left hand screw threads respectively
on its opposite ends, and is screwed at one end into the said piece 15, and a piece 17
into which the other end of the piece 16 is screwed, the piece 17 carrying the
roller H which is operated by the circumferential cam o 1. It will be readily seen
that by simply turning the central piece 16 in one direction or the other the rod is
either lengthened or shortened, as the case may be.
I moreover arrange the connection of the sliding bar G with the feed lever F, so
as to admit of the position of the latter being approximately adjusted, the two
parts being connected together by a pin 18, which is capable of being fitted into
any one of a series of holes formed in the end 15 of the horizontal sliding bar G, so
that the feed lever Fcan be placed in different positions in relation to the horizontal

page_text: sliding bar G by simply moving the pin 18 with the feed lever from one hole into
another, an accurate or nice adjustment being subsequently effected by turning the
screw 16.
The waxed thread is conducted from any usual or suitable tension apparatus to a
looper v, which is placed upon an axis V having its bearings V 1 in the main frame B
of the machine, and situate transversely to the main driving shaft E. This looper
has a compound sliding and reciprocating rotary motion, which is obtained in the
following manner :-The sliding motion is imparted to the same by a double-arined
lever W, also placed upon the axis s 1, upon which is mounted the disc or crank
lever imparting the motion to the awl and needle stocks, and also the lever Z 1,
imparting the motion to the feed mechanism. The lever W extends with one arm w
into the groove of a grooved roller v1 fixed upon the looper axis V, whilst its other
arm w, is provided with a roller w 3 fitting into a cam groove 19 cut or formed in
the disc C upon the main shaft E.
The reciprocating rotary motion is effected by means of two inwardly yielding
levers x 1, x2, each provided with a nose or projection at its outer end, which lovers
are attached to or fitted in the shaft or axis V of the looper v, and are pivoted
respectively on two pins 1, 2, whilst a spring a, being placed between the two levers,
gives them an outward pressure away from the centre of the axis V.
The noses of the levers fit in spiral or coiled grooves or slots 20, 21, (see Figures
4b, 4c, 4d, and 4 e,) formed in a tubular sleeve, which may be made in two
halves V 2, V 3, as illustrated in the said Figures, and is placed around the shaft or
axis V of the looper within the bearing V 1, so as to form an intermediate piece
between the said bearing V1 and the looper axis V.
It will readily be seen that as the noses of the levers x1, x2, work in the
slots 20, 21, the looper, when its shaft or axis V receives its forward sliding motion
by the means previously described, will also be caused to partially rotate around its
own axis, which rotary motion is variable in its speed, the variation depending
upon the shape of the said spiral or coiled grooves 20, 21.
If desired, one of the levers may be used alone, in which case the shaft or axis V
will, when sliding forward, describe the same path in its revolving or oscillating
motion as it will describe afterwards by its return sliding motion; but when two
levers and slots are used, as illustrated in the Drawings, the course of the looper in
its returning motion may be changed so as to make an entirely different path from
that described in its forward motion. This is effected in the following manner, vide-
licit -The lever x 1, after it has arrived at its most forward point, is drawn out of
gear by an auxiliary groove 22 which corresponds in its direction with the opposite
groove 21, but gradually diminishes and merges in the inner surface of the half
sleeve V 2, so that the nose of the lever x 1 is pressed inwardly during the return
sliding motion of the shaft or axis V, whilst the nose of the lever x2 in the spiral
or coiled slot or groove 21 controls the revolving or oscillating motion.
When the returning notion of the axis V is completed the lever a 2 is in its turn
drawn out of gear by means of another auxilary groove 23, the nose of the said
lever being pressed inwardly during the forward motion, whilst the nose of the
lever I now controls the revolving or oscillating motion of the shaft or axis.
This varying of the looper path at its respective forward and backward motions
is desirable when it is found that the awl or awl stock has to receive such a motion
as would otherwise bring it within the range of the looper when the same retires;
but by changing its course in retiring in the manner herein-before explained the
looper may be caused to travel back in a path which will not interfere with the awl
or the awl stock.
In lieu of the preceding arrangement for imparting a revolving or oscillating
motion to the looper axis, I may impart such a motion to the said axis by means of
a toothed segment having its fulerum on the back of the machine frame, the said
seginent gearing into a toothed wheel attached to the looper axis, and being operated
at its opposite end by a grooved cam carried on the main shaft.
By means of the compound sliding and reciprocating rotary or oscillating motion.

page_text: herein-before described, the looper will always be situate either at a distance from
the work or above or within the path of the awl and needle, that is to say, it will
always be in such a position as to obviate all liability of its coming into contact
with the uppers of the work to be sewn; for example, while the needle and awl
perform respectively their functions of piercing and passing through the work to be
sewn, the eye or point of the looper carrying the thread is removed out of the
paths of both, being situate below and away from the point of the needle just
where the latter has passed through the material to be sewn, as shewn in Figure 4.
The looper now travels forward, at the same time commencing its rotary motion,
which it performs in such a manner that its point passes between the awl and
needle just at the moment when both have left the largest possible space between
their respective points; the eye or end of the looper then passes beyond the point
of the needle sufficiently to lay the thread in the barb of the same (as shewn in
Figure 8), after which it rests in this place until the needle has drawn the thread
through the work, when it will return to its original position. The above
described motion of the looper has moreover the advantage that the looper will lay
the thread in the needle when the same is adjusted for sewing "turned" and
welt seams, as well as when the same is adjusted for stitching the soles on to the
welts.
I also employ a "cast off" or barb shield t 1, and a needle shield t, which may be
formed together in one piece, but slotted tangentially to the circle of the opening of
the needle shield t, which encloses the needle n, the slot imparting to the cast off
the nature of a spring, which presses against that side or surface of the needle in
which the barb is cut. But I prefer the arrangement shewn most clearly in Figure
10, in which the cast off or barb shield t 1 is made separate from the needle shield t,
and attached thereto by means of a screw 24 and a pin 25, so that both can readily
be exchanged, and yet when screwed together will form practically one piece. This
compound needle and barb shield is fitted into a projection T1 of a lever T, either
with a dovetail or (as preferred and shewn in my Drawings) by a pivot 26, the said
lever being actuated by and receiving its motion from the same or a similar mechanism
and arrangement as or to that employed for moving the awl and needle stock, and
having its fulcrum on the same axis as the latter.
In the Drawings Figures 4, 6, 7, 8, 9, and 10 I have shown an arrangement for
deriving the motion for the lever T from the same mechanism, and from one and the
same roller (R) as moves the awl and needle stocks.
It has previously been described that the needle stock N is provided with an
operating tail end P made separate from and attached to it in such a manner as to
admit of the position of the needle stock being varied relatively to its tail end P
when it is required to stitch the soles to the welts after having sewn "turned "
seams or welts. Under like circumstances it is also necessary to change the position
of the needle shield, and this is effected by a similar arrangement of the mechanism
to that employed for the needle stock; for example, the lever T (which is provided
with an operating tail end U (mounted on the common axis XI, and actuated by
the roller R working in its cam groove T 1) may be made separate from its tail end
and attached thereto, so as to admit of the position of the lever T, relatively to its
tail end, being changed; but I prefer the equivalent arrangement illustrated, in
which the shield titself is made separate from its lever T, and removably
attached thereto, the lever being provided with two grooves or recesses t 2, t 3, into
one or other of which the shield t is fitted, according to the nature of the operation
to be performed, and secured therein in the manner herein-after described.
In Figure 4 of my Drawings I have shewn the shield t as fitted in the recess t 2,
into which position it is adjusted for sewing "turned" seams or welts.
When
however it is required to stitch the soles on to the welts, the shield t is removed
from the recess t2, and fitted into the recess t3, which position corresponds with
the position of the needle requisite for the like operation, as shewn in Figure 9.
The shield t is secured in its groove t 2 or 3 (as the case may be) by means
of screws 27, 28, and washer or plate 29, it being so arranged that when the

page_text: screws are loosened, the pivot 26 or its equivalent is allowed to pass in and out
freely, whereas by tightening the screws the shield is held firmly in its place.
It will be observed that in the arrangement of apparatus, herein-before described,
the whole of the actuating levers or parts, by which motion is transmitted from
the main shaft to the sewing mechanism, are mounted upon one and the same
axis 8', whereby increased facility in the manufacture of the machine is obtained.
The auxiliary gauge m, which is provided, as before mentioned, with a broad
perpendicular face, as in the ordinary manner, and described in the said Specification
of William Robert Lake, 2173,70), is attached to or forms one end of a shaft m 1,
which is arranged in a plane passing through the vertical centre line of the frame
B of the machine, and has its bearing therein in a transverse direction to the main
shaft and below the cams attached to the latter. The shaft m¹ of the auxiliary
gauge m is provided with a loose collar m 2 on its end, extending within the frame,
which collar has a flange n 2 in the direction of the axis of the said shaft, and on
one side is slotted through the centre of the said flange. The latter rests with its
lower surface upon a bearing m 4, firmly attached to the frame B of the machine,
whilst upon its upper surface acts a lever l, which presses upon the flange so as to
compress the jaws of the collar m 2 and lock the shaft m 1 at certain intervals,
namely, just when the needle is passing through the material to be sewn, whereas
the lever releases the collar m 2, and consequently unlocks the shaft m 1 at the
moinent when the feed takes place, and the auxiliary gauge is to adjust itself to the
irregular forms of the last against which it is constantly pressed by a spiral spring 29.
The motion of the lever is obtained by means of a roller 30 attached to one arm
31 thereof, and constantly maintained by a spiral spring 1 in contact with a
circumferential cam 32 carried by the main driving shaft E.
According to a modification of this arrangement I employ a wedge m 3 (see Figure
18) carried and operated by a suitable lever 12, and arranged in connection with an
incline a 3, so that when the wedge is acted upon by the spring 13, it will be caused
to press against the incline a 3 of the shaft m 1, whilst when the wedge m 3 is lifted
by means of the cam 33, roller 34, and lever 12, the shaft m 1 is unlocked and
permitted to pass freely backwards.
I further employ a tack drawer or pincer J, which may be stationary, but which
I prefer to make automatically movable (as shewn in Figures 2, 3, and 3 a) by
placing it in a bearing i attached to the bracket B, which carries the awl and needle
stocks, and in which it has an up-and-down sliding motion, the said motion being
derived from the arm 42 of the crank lever Z', which operates the feed, and to which
the tack drawer or pincher J is connected by means of a pin 35 passing through the
arm 42 and fitted in a slot 36 formed on the upper part of the tack drawer or pincer.
When the work to be sewn is being fed, the tacks with which the uppers are held
in the last are guided one by one into the mouth 37 of the tack drawer or pincer,
and when the same receives its upward motion the tacks are extracted from the
work and drop by the descending motion of the tack drawer or pincer.
The last part of my said Invention relates to a suspended jack for carrying the
last or work to be sewn, and which is illustrated in Figures 15, 16, and 17 (Sheet 3)
of my Drawings. L is the jack, provided with a pivot 38 fitting into a socket 39
of a support U1, in which the jack revolves or turns freely. The support U1 is
provided with two upwardly-extending arms 40, 41, to which are respectively
attached the two ends of a suspending rope or cord M 1, at a point at or about on a
level with the work to be sewn, but in any case above socket 39, and in which the
pivot of the jack L4 revolves. The two ends of this rope are first carried upwards
one at each side and passed respectively round the two overhead pulleys K, K 1,
which are so arranged as to be capable of a horizontal swivelling motion in addition
to the rotary motion around their axes. From these pulleys the two portions of the
rope descend and pass round two sets of pulleys L, L1, and L 2, L3, respectively,
having their bearings at a convenient height and at suitable angles on the stand A
of the machine. Below the pulleys, the bend of the rope forming the union of such
two portions partially encircles a single central pulley k, which carries a counter-

page_text: weight M, the latter being situate within the stand A of the machine. This
apparatus, which is suspended by one and the same rope, has the effect of maintaining
the work in contact with the sewing mechanism without the aid of the operator,
leaving him free to turn the work about, as required, according to its shape or
contour, as the operation proceeds.
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of my said
Invention, and the manner in which the same is or may be used or carried into
effect, I would observe in conclusion that what I consider to be novel and original,
and therefore claim as the Invention secured to ine by the herein-before in part
recited Letters Patent, is,-
First. In a sewing machine for sewing the "welts" to boots and shoes and other
coverings for the feet, and for sewing "turns" with a circular barbed needle, the
latter forming also the piercing instrument and entering the in-sole in the inside
channel first, the employment of a stationary back guage in combination with a
yielding feed gauge, substantially as herein-before described and illustrated by my
Drawings.
Second. In a sewing machine for sewing "welts" to boots and shoes and other
coverings for the feet, and for sewing "turns" with a circular barbed needle, a
stationary but vertically adjustable top rest or middle gauge, so constructed and
arranged as to extend down upon and constantly bear against the "between
substance," substantially as herein-before described and illustrated by my Drawings.
Third. In a sewing machine for sewing soles to boots and shoes and other
coverings for the feet with a circular barbed needle, a feed gauge, which in addition
to having an oscillating and horizontal sliding motion, is so constructed that its
feeding point shall yield or vibrate under a spring pressure, and in the circular path
of the needle to the insinuosities of the work, substantially as herein-before described
and illustrated by my Drawings.
Fourth. In a sewing machine for sewing the soles to boots and shoes and other
coverings for the feet with a circular barbed needle, the employment of a bifurcated
feed gauge, which is folded or bent over, with its bent part situate nearest to the centre
or axis of the awl and needle, whilst its two branches are arranged radially to or
in a divergent direction from the centre or axis of the awl and needle, and so as to
yield under a spring pressure, substantially as herein-before described, and illustrated
by my Drawings.
Fifth. In a sewing machine for sewing the "welts" or soles to boots and shoes
and other coverings for the feet with a circular barbed needle, the combination of
the stationary back gauge a, the top rest or middle gauge b, and the vibrating feed
gauge, substantially as herein-before described and illustrated by my Drawings.
Sixth. In a sewing machine with a circular needle, the employment of an
oscillating needle stock provided with a tail end, having a cam groove in which is
fitted a roller, or its equivalent receiving a motion towards and from the centre or
axis of the said needle stock, substantially as herein-before described.
Seventh. In a sewing machine with a circular needle, the employment of an
oscillating needle stock, having an operating tail end made separate therefrom and
attached thereto, substantially as and for the purpose herein-before described.
Eighth. In a sewing machine with a circular needle, the employment of an
oscillating needle and barb shield lever, provided with a tail end having a cam
groove in which is fitted a roller or its equivalent, receiving a motion towards
and from the centre or axis of the said lever, substantially as herein-before
described.
Ninth. In a sewing machine with a circular needle, the employment of an
oscillating needle and barb shield attached to its operating lever, substantially in
the manner and for the purpose herein-before described.
Tenth. In a sewing machine with a circular awl and a circular needle, the employ-
ment of an oscillating awl stock provided with a tail end having a cam groove in
which is fitted a roller or its equivalent, receiving a motion towards and from the
centre or axis of the said stock, substantially as herein-before described.

page_text: Eleventh. In a sewing machine with a circular awl and a circular needle, the
employment of an oscillating awl stock having an operating tail end made separate
therefrom, and attached thereto, substantially as and for the purpose herein-before
described.
Twelfth. Transmitting motion from the main driving mechanism of a sewing
machine with a circular awl and a circular needle to the oscillating awl stock, needle
stock, and needle shield lever, or any two of the said parts by means of one and
the same roller or its equivalent, or two or more rollers mounted upon one and the
same roller pin or axis, substantially as herein-before described, and illustrated by
my Drawings.
Thirteenth. Arranging the position of the roller or its equivalent, which operates
the awl stock, needle stock, and needle shield lever, or any one or more of them, in
relation to the circle of motion of the awl and the needle in such a manner that the.
said roller shall move partly within and without the said circle of motion, sub-
stantially as and for the purpose herein-before described.
Fourteenth. Arranging the motion of the roller or its equivalent, which operates
the needle stock so that its downward path towards the centre of motion of the
needle is varied automatically with the variation in the thickness of material to be
sewn, whereas in its upward motion the roller or its equivalent invariably ascends
to one and the same point or height, for the purpose of causing the needle to draw
longer or shorter loops respectively in thicker or thinner materials, substantially as
herein-before described, and illustrated by my Drawings.
Fifteenth. In a sewing machine with a barbed needle, the employment of a looper
which has a reciprocating oscillating motion around its own axis, in combination
with a reciprocating sliding motion along its own axis, substantially as herein-
before described, and illustrated by my Drawings.
Sixteenth. In a sewing machine with a barbed needle, the employment of a looper
which has a reciprocating oscillating motion around, and a reciprocating sliding
motion along its own axis, the looper in its forward motion describing a different
patch from that described in its backward motion, substantially as herein-before
described, and illustrated by my Drawings.
Seventeenth. In a sewing machine with a circular needle for sewing the soles on
boots and shoes and other coverings for the feet, the employment of a reciprocating
oscillating feed guage or feed guage lever, so arranged as to be capable of being
adjusted into various positions around its axis of oscillation, substantially as and for
the purposes herein-before described.
Eighteenth. The combination with the oscillating feed lever F of the horizontal
sliding bar G; its slotted bearing g 1, and its oscillating bearing g 2, substantially as
and for the purpose herein-before described.
Nineteentli. Actuating an oscillating feed lever by means of two parallel sliding
bars, operated by an intermediate diagonal slotted piece and a roller or its equivalent,
substantially as herein-before described, and illustrated by my Drawings.
Twentieth. In a sewing machine with a circular awl and a circular needle
mounting the whole of the parts, by which motion is transmitted from the main
shaft of the machine to the sewing mechanism upon one end and the same axis,
substantially as herein-before described.
Twenty-first. In a sewing machine for sewing soles to boots and shoes and other
coverings for the feet, the employment of a device for extracting automatically the
lasting tacks before the same come in contact with or in the way of either the awl
or the needle.
Twenty-second. In combination with sewing and other machines for the manu-
facture of boots and shoes and other coverings for the feet, the employment of a
suspended jack or support for the work, substantially as and for the purpose herein-
before described.
Twenty-third. The peculiar arrangement of apparatus for looking and releasing

page_text: the auxiliary guage, substantially as herein-before described, and illustrated by
Fig. 15 of my Drawings.
Twenty-fourth. The peculiar arrangement of apparatus for locking and releasing
the auxiliary guage, substantially as herein-before described, and illustrated by
Fig. 18 of my Drawings.
In witness whereof, I, the said Herman Charles Gros, have to this my
Specification set my hand and seal, the Sixth day of April, One thousand
eight hundred and seventy-eight.