A NEW OR IMPROVED MANUFACTURE or Pics SHOES, AND OTHER COVERINGS FOR THE FEET
Year: 1856

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Thomas White, of Sleaford, in the County of Lincoln,
Manufacturer, for the Invention of A NEW OR IMPROVED MANUFACTURE
or Pics SHOES, AND OTHER COVERINGS FOR THE FEET,"
Sealed the 2nd June 1857, and dated the 20th December 1856.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Thomas White at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 20th
December 1856.
I, THOMAS WHITE, of Sleaford, in the County of Lincoln, Manufacturer,
do hereby declare the nature of the Invention for "A NEW OR IMPROVED
MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS, SHOES, AND OTHER COVERINGS FOR THE FEET," to be as
follows:-
In carrying my Invention into effect, I take the upper leather of the shoe
and place it on a plunger or last; it is then forced through an elastic die to
a certain point, when there the die springs over the bottom or sole of the
last or plunger, forcing the upper leather or vamp with it over the insole,
which is secured by means of teeth and a spring until it is dry. The sole is
then cut to the required shape and placed in another die, which has the
required number of teeth points or a wls to make the holes for the pegs; or
the sole is placed on the last or plunger, and then under a hammer or other
striking or pressing instrument holding one or more points, teeth, or awls.
Each stroke or pressure of the hammer or other instrument makes one or
more holes, as may be determined upon. The pegs are then placed in the
holes, and all or part driven home by a hammer or by pressure.
гр.

page_text: Although I have only described my Invention in its application to the
manufacture of shoes, yet my said Invention may be applied to the manufac-
ture of coverings for feet in general.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Thomas White in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
18th June 1857.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, THOMAS
WHITE, of Sleaford, in the County of Lincoln, Manufacturer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twentieth day of December, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-six, in the twentieth year of
Her reigu, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me,
the said Thomas White, Her special licence that I, the said Thomas White,
my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Thomas
White, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the
term therein expressod, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel
Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "A NEW OR IMPROVED MANUFACTURE
OF BOOTS. SHOES, AND OTHER COVERINGS FOR THE FEET," upon the condition
(amongst others) that I, thesaid Thomas White,my executors or administrators,
by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals,
should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention,
and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same
to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months
next and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Thomas White, do hereby delare the
nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement thereof, that is to say :-
My Invention consists of the new or improved manufacture of boots,
shoes, and other coverings for the feet, herein-after particularly described,
and illustrated in the accompanying Drawings.
Fig. 1 represents in plan a shoe lasting die or elastic die to be used in
the manufacture of boots, shoes, and other coverings for the feet, made
according to my Invention. A is a strong iron frame, varying in size and

page_text: substance as much as may be required for the different sizes of boots and
shoes to be manufactured, and for the effectual resistance of the pressure of
the springs. Inside this frame four or more steel springs, marked B, are
placed, one or more on each side, to which springs are rivetted or bolted a
strong piece of bar iron marked C, the said bars being placed edgeways in the
dic, as also are the springs (when the said springs are of the kind shewn in
the Drawing, but any other kind of spring may be used in this die). Four
half-square corners D, of less substance than the bars C, are also placed edge-
ways, having pins filed in them to pass through the plates which are bolted
to the frame A, to one of which they are rivetted. These squares D are for
the ends of the bars C to work against to keep the springs in their proper
places. Inside this square are a number of pieces of iron, brass, or other
metal, marked E, which, when all in their proper places, form a square, each
letter E denoting a separate piece. The divisions are indicated by the lines.
Through this square is made a hole in the shape of a shoe sole, as shown at
F in the Drawing. The hole F is bevilled all round, so that it is smaller at
bottom than at top; the inclination or bevil is marked G. Round the inside
of the hole F pieces of metal are fastened, which overlap each other, so that
when the last or plunger is pressed through, the pieces overlapping give way
with the pressure without making any nick or opening. I also sometimes
use a piece of vulcanized india-rubber or other elastic or flexiblo substance
fastened inside the hole F. To the iron frame above described two iron plates
are bolted of the size of the frame used; the bolting is effected through the
holes marked H. To the said plates nothing of the interior above described
is made fast except the four half-square corners, as shown in the Drawing
marked D.
The following is the method of using the die, Figure 1:-The die is placed
on a frame of wood or iron, and sufficiently raised from the ground to admit
of a screw or lever, or both, underneath; the screw or lever holding a
hollow boss or box covered with leather, india-rubber, or other soft flexible
material, which boss or box is to receive the last with the upper leather upon
it as it is pressed through the die. I also use a spring at the base or bottom
of the screw or lever, on which spring the screw or lever is fixed, the action
of the spring being regulated to the required distance it shall move according
to the substance of the leather used. This die can also be made to traverse,
and be lifted up from the boss or box below it; when removed it will leave
the boot or shoe in the boss free, which can be taken out and the die
replaced. In this mode of working. the die the screw and the lever are
dispensed with.

page_text: The following is the mode of giving the pressure in forcing the boot or shoe
last or plunger with the leather upon it through the die:-The die being
fast to the frame before described, to which frame is joined an upright
with a projecting arm overhanging the hole in the die, and to which arm
is attached a ram worked by a lever, at the end of which ram is a moveable
iron plate (so that a plate of any size may be used) of the form of a shoc
sole, or in place of the ram a screw may be used. Any other mode of
pressure may be employed.
The following is the action of the die by the lever or screw pressing through
the boot or shoe-The lever or screw is raised to its required height, and the
last, with the upper leather upon it (and the insole forced within the flange of
the last as described in reference to the last or plunger,) is put into the hole
in the die before described; the pressure is then put on, which drives the last
through the die into the boss placed underneath for its reception, also before
described. In passing through the die, the hole in the die being smaller than
the last or plunger, the springs before described press the upper leather tight
on the last, and when through it, springs over the bottom or sole of the last,
carrying the flange of the upper leather with it over the insole, and holds it
there. The pressure is then taken off, and an oblong ring to fit the hole in
the die, having teeth points or awls all round it, and to which is attached a
spring in the middle, through which spring is a perpendicular piece of iron
with a spear point at one end; this is then put in the hole in the dic, the
points reaching to the last with the leather upon it still in the dic. Tho
pressure is again put on, when it drives theawls through or partly through the
upper leather and insole, at the same time forcing the spring down upon the
insole or bottom of the last, and is kept there by the spear point having
pierced through the insole into a spring catch made in the last for the purpose.
The screw or lever is then lowered, or the die lifted up on one side, and the
boot or shoe taken out, which is then in a state known as lasted.
The last or plunger to be used with the machine, Figure 1, I make of both
wood and metal, or partly..of wood and partly of metal, having an edge or
flange running all round the sole, to vary in its projection above the bottom of
the last according to the substance of leather used for the insole, and into
which the insole is put before placing the last in the upper leather. The last
is made bevilled from the top, coming nearly to an edge at top, and made
gradually thicker to the sole. When of wood and iron combined, a plate of
iron is screwed to the sole of a wood last of the above description, and also
having a flange all round, as before described. In the bottom of the solo
of the last is made a dovetail groove, which is filled with lead; also a

page_text: spring catch or lock, to open both ways, placed as near the centre
as required.
The last or plunger when made of iron can have a mortice hole in the
anclo part, and into which hole may enter a shaft of iron, having a shoulder
from the piece cutering the mortice hole of greater substance; the use of
this part is more particularly for long boots.
Figure 2 represents in plan, and Figure 3 in section, a boot or shoe sole-
piercing die or machine to be used in the manufacture of boots, shoes, or
other coverings for the feet, made according to my Invention.
A is a cast-iron frame or square, varying in size and substance according to
the sizes of boots and shoes to be manufactured. Through this frame A is cut
a hole of the form of a shoe sole, in which hole, at a certain distance from the
surface, is a ledge B, in which ledge are drilled two rows of holes for the awls
or points, as shown in the Drawing, and markod C. In every hole is fixed an
awl; over the awls is a plate of iron, marked in the section E, with holes in
exactly to correspond, and the size of the ledge, marked C, which plate of iron
E is to hold the awls in their places, screwed fast down to the ledge. Througli
the hole left by the ledge, marked D in the Drawing, is another piece of iron of
the exact size of the hole horizontally, but thicker than the substance forming
the ledge, having an overlapping flange all round, as shown in the section
marked D. On the top of this piece of iron is another plate to fit the hole
marked in the section F; through this plate also is drilled two rows of holes
to correspond exactly with the holes drilled in plate C, and on the top or
surface of this plate I engrave or cut a pattern or device, which will leave an
impression on the leather; another and loose plate of the exact size of the
plate F having holes to correspond, between which plate and the plate F the
leather for the sole is placed; the pressure is then put on the top plate, which
pressure drives the moveable plates (marked in the section D and F) down; the
leather is then pierced by the awls; the bottom of the plate D is fixed on a
spring to force it up again and to carry the leather with it off the awls. When
this spring is not strong enough for the purpose I use a screw or lever to
assist it. The loose plate is removed, and the boot or shoe (or the upper
leather and insole) npon the last or plunger is placed in the die and the
pressure again put on, when the awls pierce the upper leather and insole,
passing through them into lead run into the last or plunger, making the holes
perfectly through the leather. The boot or shoc is then taken out of this dic,
and a plate of iron having holes to correspond to the holes made in the sole.
In every hole is put a-peg, which is put upon the sole of the boot or shoe,
and another pressure put on, which drives the pegs into the boot or shoe

page_text: within the thickness of the iron plate which holds them; this plate is then
removed, when the remaining portion of the peg can be driven home or cut
off at pleasure. I also use in addition to the holes hollow tubes, or three sides
of a square tube or tubes, in which the pegs are to be placed and held in their
places by means of a spring or springs, which when liberated will let the pegs
fall into the holes. This die is to be worked by the same kind of pressure as
the lasting die when sufficiently powerful, or any other kind of pressure.
The whole or any part of the sole-piercing die may be used by up or down
pressure with a spring of any kind to force the leather off the awls.
Figure 4 represents, in elevation, a shoe-pegging machine to work by com-
pound lever pressure by treadle, the said machine being employed in the
manufacture of boots and shoes according to my Invention; or, the said
machine may be worked by steam power, with crank, excentric, or other
motion. To work one or more rams or rods through slides, or pairs of rams,
one called the top ram, the other the bottom ram, when by steam power,
I use the two rams, or I apply both rams at top, both moved by the same shaft
by any of the above motions.
A', A2, are two iron rods, or rams, moving through slides, as shown in the
Drawing, Figure 4. The top ram A' strikes upon the head or claw of the
other or bottom ram A2, after the said bottom ram has been brought firmly
down upon the sole of the boot or shoe by another treadle N, not shown in the
Drawing, connected at the hole Y, and worked by the other foot; or the
bottom ram has a forked claw, through which the top ram strikes; or the
rams work one beside the other, separately and independently, except that
one holds the last for the pegs or pegs ready cut, and the other holds the
awl or awls to make the holes, and also a chisel or knife, one or more. to
cut the pegs.
The following is the construction of the rams:-The top ram marked A',
has a crosshead, marked in the Drawing B', to which crosshead is connected
by rule joints two iron arms, marked B2, to the lower end of which arms is
connected the lever D, also by rule joints. These rams are grooved down one
side, in which groove fits a tongue to prevent their turning. Above or on the
top of the crosshead B' is an eye or ring, which is connected to a spring P
above the ram, which spring is made fast to the frame of the machine by bolts
and screws, marked C; at the other end, or bottom of this top ram A', is fixed
the awl or awls, also the chisel or knife, one or more in an iron head, as shown
in Figure 6 in the Drawing, made moveable or fast on the end of the ram
at pleasure. The under ram A2 has a projecting part or claw at the top, which
overlaps the sole of the boot or shoe, the use of which is to prevent the awl on

page_text: rising from dragging up the leather from the last. In this claw, to correspond
with the awl and chisel in the top ram, is a hole, through which the awls
pass before reaching the sole of the boot or shoe, and also a hole for the chisel
to pass into, carrying the peg with it up to a hollow tube, which tube is either
fixed upon a spring or made fast. When made fast, a piece of iron in the
shape of a punch to fit the inside of the tube, and flush up to the chisel, when
down carrying the peg with it into the sole, the tube passes into the head of
the top ram and the punch into the claw of the bottom ram, driving the peg
into the sole of the boot or shoe, or into the hole made by the awl in the pre-
ceding stroke. At the bottom of the under ram A2 is a spiral or other spring
to force up the ram after and when the pressure is taken off the treadle M;
this spring is marked in the Drawing K. At the top of the ram A2, and made
fast to the claw or head, is a channel or trough, marked in the Drawing N,
which trough is to hold the lath for the pegs or pegs ready cut, and is kept
up to the chisel or knife by a spring, marked in the Drawing O. When the
pegs are ready cut 1 dispense with the chisel, and the pegs are driven up to
the tube, when the top ram drives it or them into the leather. The square
piece, marked L in the Drawing, is a table, which is made fast to the frame C,
and through which table the under ram A³ works, as shewn in the Drawing.
On this table is placed the boot or shoe in a boss or box, which is held firmly
down by the treadle N, pulling down the ram A2; the boot or shoe is then in
the proper place for the worker. The pressure is then put on the treadle M,
which drives down the top ram A', the awl making a hole, and the chisel
cutting a peg by the same pressure, as before described.
This machine is to be worked with or without a mover, as herein next
described.
The mover when used is by preference a ratchet wheel, connected to or part
of an axis or shaft, to which is attached a wheel which works flush with the
surface of the table L. In the bottom of the boss or box is a rack with cogs
to correspond with the wheel, or the same ratchet wheel to move one or more
wheels to work flush with the front surface of the under ram A³, which wheel
or wheels being horizontally fixed will work in a rack with cogs placed on the
side of the boss or box. The ratchet wheel obtains its motion from a catch,
or click, or pall spring, or otherwise, which is made fast to the under ram, and
when the said under ram moves up by the force of the spring Kit moves the
ratchet wheel; the catch or click, &c., can be placed the contrary way which
will give a contrary motion. I also use any other convenient kind of mover.
Part of this machine, as shewn in Figure 5, may be used as a morticing
machine, and for puuching, and other such like purposes. The ram A¹ is

page_text: made to revolve in the crosshead B¹, and made ofa length and strength suitable
to the work to which it or they may be applied. In the slide through which
the ram moves is a second slide, with a tongue or jib to fit in the groove of the
ram, and a similar tongue or tongues or gibs to fit in the main slide; the
second or interior slide can be lifted up, which will allow the top ram to be
reversed, or turned round. This slide is prevented from rising with the ram
by a piece of iron slipping over the tongue which comes into the main slide.
The frame holding the ram overhanging admits the article to be operated upon
under the chisel or punch fixed in the end of the ram.
The leverage is
exactly the same as that herein-before described with reference to Figure 4.
Figure 7 represents, in elevation, a shoe-pegging machine to be worked by
steam power, and used in the manufacture of boots and shoes according to
my Invention.
The shoc-pegging machine worked by steam or other power works by crank,
excentric, or other motion; it is exactly the same in all essential respects as the
one herein-before described, and illustrated by Figure 4 of the Drawings,
except that all the lever power drawn and particularised in Figure 4 is dis-
pensed with, and a connecting rod, marked A, is attached to the end or top of
the ram B, which connecting rod is herein-after described. This connecting rod
is made in two parts, one part having a rule joint at one end G to connect
the ram B to the rod A, and a rivet head at the other, which rivet head is
put on after it is put through the crosshead, or the two forged together after
it is put through, which crosshead it strikes on the spiral spring, as shown in
the Drawing marked C. The top part of the connecting rod forms the strap
of the excentric, or is attached to the crank or other kind of moving power
in the usual way. It has a rivet head at its lower end, which also passes
through a crosshead and strikes on the spring C. To this crosshead is attached
two rods of iron, extending each side of the spring from one crosshead to the
other, by which rods the crossheads are bolted together by nuts and screws;
this crosshead is marked D in the Drawings. Through the spiral spring C
is a pin, which slides into holes turned out of the two parts marked A, before
described. This rod is represented in front view, and consequently must be
supposed to be turned one-fourth or partly round. The bottom connecting
rod is exactly the same as the other, except that it pulls on the spring C instead
of striking on it. The crosshead with side rods is forged on to the connecting
rod, forming two prongs, as shewn in the Drawing marked E, and is connected
to the bottom end of under ram F by a rule joint, as shown in the Drawing
marked G. The other portion of this connecting rod passes through a cross-
head H, to which it is bolted by the side rods E by nuts and screws, the head

page_text: of which portion of the rod K slides on the inside of the two rods E. A crank
at the bottom of the rod K, not shewn in the Drawing, pulls down the ram F
on the sole of the boot or shoe and holds it there until the ram B has mado
a stroke. The ratchet wheel is the same as described with reference to
Figure 4. When both rams are placed on the top two connecting rods are
used, the same as the top one, marked A, B, C, D, G. That portion of this
machine shewn in Figure SI use for morticing, punching, or any other work
to which it is applicable. This portion is shewn in the Drawing with one ram
only. The frame overhangs, and under the ram holding the chisel is a move-
able guaged table, so that any thickness or width of substance can be placed
under for operation; the bottom part is for these purposes dispensed with.
The ram being grooved, as represented in the Drawing, Figure 4, has a move-
able slide, which lifts out of the main slide, also represented in Figure 4, and
this ram also is turned or reversed by the head of A turning in the crosshead
or bar of the crosshead D). In the slide or slides, one or both, or that part of
slide which is bolted into the frame of wood or iron, is an interior slide which
can be lifted out of the main slide to allow the ram to revolve or turn; inside
those slides is placed the tongue or gib which lifts up with the slide, and
which slides are prevented from moving by the gib head being made long
enough to reach to the main slide, where it is secured by another slide being
passed over it.
Having now described the nature of my said Invention, and the manner of
carrying the same into effect, I wish it to be understood that I do not limit
myself to the precise details herein described, and illustrated in the Drawings
as the same may be varied without departing from the nature of my said
Invention; but I claim as my Invention the manufacture of boots, shoes,
and other coverings for the feet by the use of the several machines herein-
before described, and illustrated in the accompanying Drawings.
In witness whereof, I, the said Thomas White, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Sixteenth day of June, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-seven.
Witness,
HENRY INGOLDBY.
THOMAS WHITE. (L.S.)