IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY FOR THE MANU- FACTURE OF LOOPED FABRICS
Year: 1849

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, MATTHEW
TOWNSEND, of Leicester, Framework Knitter, and DAVID MOULDEN, of the same
Place, Framework Knitter, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Royal Letters Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain bearing date at
Westminster, the Thirteenth day of February, in the twelfth year of Her reign,
did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto us, the said
Matthew Townsend and David Moulden, Her especial license, full power, solc
privilege and authority, that we, the said Matthew Townsend and David
Moulden, our exors, adññors, and assigns, and such others as we, the said
Matthew Townsend and David Moulden, our exors, adñors, or assigns, should
at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at 'all times
during the term of years therein mentioned, should and lawfully might make,
use, exercise, and vend, within England, Wales, and the Town of Berwick-
upon-Tweed, our Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY FOR THE MANU-
FACTURE OF LOOPED FABRICS;" in which said Letters Patent is contained a
proviso, obliging us, the said Matthew Townsend and David Moulden, by an
instrument in writing under our hands and seals, or under the hand and seal of
one of us, particularly to describe and ascertain the nature of our said Inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, and to cause the same
to be inrolled in Her Majesty's High Court of Chancery within six calendar
months next and immediately after the date of the said in part recited Letters
Patent, as in and by the same, reference being thereunto had, will more fully
and at large appear.

page_text: "
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said
Matthew Townsend, on behalf of myself and of the said David Moulden, do
hereby declare that the nature of our said 'Invention, and the manner in which
the same is to be performed, is particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following description thereof, reference being had to the Drawings here-
unto annexed, and to the letters and figures marked thereon (that is to say):--
This Invention of "Improvements in . Machinery. for the. Manufacture of
Looped Fabrics" has principally for its object, the simplification of the mechanism
now employed in such manufacture, for the purpose of enabling the workman
to drive the machinery with greater speed than is commonly the practice in
manufacturing looped fabrics, and for lessening the cost of constructing the
machines. It also refers to the more perfect construction of machinery for
manufacturing certain kinds of goods which at present require considerable
manipulation, whereby those manipulations which render, the manufacture a
tedious operation may be in great part dispensed with.
The principal part of this Invention consists in a novel construction of
needle, whereby we are enabled to dispense with the use of a presser bar, which
(as is well known) depresses the beards of the needles to allow the loop on the
'stem of the needle to be pushed off the needle and, to embrace the thread
.which' is held under the beard, thus forming a new loop. As this improved
needle is applied to the several new arrangements of mechanism hereafter.to
ibe .described, we will first.explain its peculiar construction, reference being had
to Sheet.I. of the accompanying Drawings, wherein Fig. 1 is a plan view of the
needle, fand Fig. 2, a vertical section of the same, both Figures being drawn
Supon an enlarged scale.. a is the stem, which terminates in a hook b; 'c is a
islot cut in the stem to receive a tongue d,which turns on a pin having
its bearings in the sides of the slot. The tongued (which is .shewn
.détached at Fig: 1*)lis.so situated, and is, of such a-length; that when it is
thrown over towards the hook its end will lie over.the.point thereof, as shewn
by dotsiat Fig. 2. Now, supposing a thread to have been cast on the row of
*needles, and the tongue to be in the back position shewn at Figures 1 and 2,
the sinkers will fall and the needles will recede until the thread is under the
shooks b; at the same time the loop of work which is on the stem of the
needle at the back of the tongue d,will come in contact' with the tongue and
throw it over into the dotted. position, Fig. 2, when the loop will be free to
pass over.it, and falling; off the needle will be caught by the thread under the
hook and form: a fresh loop, which loop as the needles again advance will
come. in contact with the tongue and throw it over into its former position, and
traverse over it until it reaches the position on the stem a of the needle that

page_text: the former loop occupied. After a fresh throw of thread the row of needles
again recedes, when the loop on the stem a coming in contact with the tongue
throws it forward into the dotted position, traverses over it, and falls off the
needle, and is caught by the thread under the hook b, whereby a fresh loop is
formed. Thus it will be seen that the tongue d of each needle plays the
part of the depressed beard of the ordinary needle, and that each successive
loop drives the tongue backwards and forwards, first, that the loop may pass on
to the stem.of the needle, and second, that it may pass off and form a course
of work: A.modification of this needle, which we'employ in the manufacture
of pearl or turned work; consists in providing the needle at both ends with a
hook and tongue, as above described.
We will now'describe an arrangement of machinery for manufacturing ribbed
loop fabrics wherein two sets of. our improved needles are employed. Fig. 3,
Shect I., is a front elevation of this machine; Fig. 4 is a vertical section of the
same; and Fig. 5 is a partial plan, shewing the arrangement of the needles.
In this machine the base of the fabric is formed on the row of horizontal
needles, and the vertical needles form the lines of ribs upon its face. 'a, a, are
the horizontal, and b, b, the vertical needles. The horizontal needles with the
selvage pins a¹, a', are attached to a horizontal sliding bar a*, which works in
guides secured to the main framing A, and the vertical needles are supported
in.a vertical sliding frame B-in front of the machine. This frame is carrieḍ
by centre pins projecting from a rocking frame B*, which is itself 'similarly
supported by pins projecting from.the main framing, and has always a tendency
to keep the frame B in its highest position by reason of the counterweight C.
This rocking frame B* also: carries a bowl or friction roller c, which is kept
up by means of the weight C, in contact with the cam D on the horizontal
shaft d. On the same shaft is a 'cam E, which revolves. in contact with the
bowl of a rocking frame F, connected' at its upper end with, the sliding bar a*
that carries. the horizontal needles. This frame rocks upon centre pins
projecting from the main framing,.and has a tendency to press forward the
needles..a to the position shewn at Fig. 4, by reason of the spiral spring
connecting.its lower ior cranked end' with the main framing. e is a pinion,
mounted on a spindle, which' has its bearings.in à bracket piece g, attached to
the main.framing,.and from this pinion, which is rotated by a winch handle or
other.convenient means,. the several parts of the machine receive their motion.
In gear with the pinion is a cog wheel h, which itself gears into and drives
a wheel i, mounted on a horizontal, shaft.k, which turns in bearings in the
framing. On the same stud which carries the wheel h is another wheel l,
which, gearing. into a cog wheel m on the shaft d, gives motion to that shaft

page_text: and the cams which it carries. To the shaft d two bracket pieces are bolted,
each of which carry a bent arm or wiper n, n*, for acting alternately on
a friction bowl o, of a long lever g, which vibrates on a centre pin at the foot
of the machine, and embraces at its upper or forked end a friction bowl'p of
the slur cock H, he purpose of communicating a backward and forward
motion thereto. The slur cock H is supported in a horizontal race or guide
piece I, and is provided with friction rollers to allow it to run smoothly in its
course. is a plate attached to the frame in which the friction rollers are
mounted, and r is a double inclined plane for raising the sinkers. The
peculiar construction of the slur cock is best shewn in the detached enlarged
views, Figures 6 and 7, where it will be seen that the plate which forms the
double inclined plane is rivetted to the plate q, and it is slotted to receive the
guide pins of a front plate s, which plate is intended to retain at certain
periods of the action of the machinery the sinkers in their elevated position,
and is capable of sliding freely from the position shewn by color at Fig. 6 to
the dotted position in the same Figure. t is the bobbin for carrying the thread,
and u the thread carrier, both of which are connected to the slur cock and
move therewith; v, v, are the sinkers, the peculiar form of which is shewn best
at Fig. 7; they have a vertical motion, and slide in guides made by the notched
plates at the upper and lower side of the fixed bar w, Fig. 4; their lower
extremities slide between two stationary guide bars x, x. y is the falling bar,
on which the tails * of the sinkers rest when they are at their lowest
position. This bar is furnished at each end with a friction bowl 1, which
bolts are respectively in contact with a pair of cam wheels 2, 2, mounted
on the shaft k; when therefore motion is communicated to the machine
these cams will revolve, and at certain periods lift up the bar y, together with
the sinkers which rest upon it. Attached to the rocking frame B* is a pair
of jointed rods 3, 3, (one on either side of the machine), which rods are
severally connected at their upper ends to one of a pair of rocking levers 4, 4,
working on studs projecting from brackets (see Fig. 3) on the front of the
framing. Pendent from the inner ends of these levers are arms 5, 5, which
are jointed to a work-lifting bar 6, and in gudgeons a, which are attached to the
needle frame B, guide rods from the lifting bar slide to steady it in its* move-
ments. To one side of the frame B a plate 7 is bolted, its inner edge (see
Fig. 4) being in contact with a friction bowl 8, which turns on a pin projecting
from a bracket on the front of the framing. This contact is ensured by means
of a coil spring 9, which gives the frame an inclination inwards, and thus
the proper position of the frame is maintained.
Having now pointed out the several parts of our improved machine for

page_text: manufacturing ribbed loop fabrics, we will now describe their operation.
The machine, as represented at Figures 3, 4, and 5, is in the position to com-.
mence a new course, the thread carrier being about to throw a thread across:
the row of horizontal needles. To effect this, rotary motion is communicated to.
the pinion e, which through the train of gearing causes the shaft d to revolve,
and with it the bent arms or wipers n, n*. The arm n* will, by coming in.
contact with the bowl o of the lever G, drive that lever in the direction of the.
arrow (Fig. 3), and thereby cause the slur cock with its thread carrier to
traverse the race. I lap a thread round the right-hand selvage pin and lay it.
on the row of needles a, the inclined planer lifting up the sinkers out of the
way of, the thread carrier as the slur cock advances. This movement of the
slur cock brings the edge of the sliding plates into contact with the first or.
outside sinker, which forces that plate into the position shewn at Fig. 3; but
when thus situated the inclined plane comes in contact with a lip on the back
of the sinkers and lifts them severally up to the height of the plates, whereon
they are suspended until the thread carrier has passed them, when they are
allowed to fall again into their lowest position by the plate s sliding away from
under their lip. The thread having been thus laid on the needles and the
sinkers having been allowed to fall, the next thing is to cause the needles a to
recede; this is effected by the larger radius of the cam E coming into contact
with the bowl of the rocking frame F and forcing it outwards, which motion
from the frame F being connected with the needle bar a*, will cause that bar
to slide backward in its guides and draw back the needles until their hooked,
ends have taken hold of the thread. In making this movement the tongues
of the needles will be brought into contact with the loop of work on the stems
of the needles, and these tongues being thrown over into the position shewn
in side and plan views at Figures 8, the row of loops on the needles will slide
over the tongues and form a new course; but before the needles a have
receded to their greatest distance, the increasing radius of the cam D will
have come into contact with the bowl c of the frame B*, and by pressing
upon the bowl it will depress the frame B*, together with the frame B, which
carries the vertical needles b, until those needles have taken the position
shewn at Figures 8. At this time the horizontal needles a will have com-
pleted their backward movement and drawn the thread which the thread
carrier had just laid upon them into tension round the upper end of the
vertical needles b, (the rotation of the cams 2 will somewhat before this have
brought round their largest radius into contact with the bowls 1, 1, of the
falling bar y, and will have raised that bar for the purpose of lifting the
sinkers out of the way of the work,) the further depression of the needle b will

page_text: cause the row of loops on their stems to come in contact with the under side
of the tongues (see Figures 8) and throw up the tongues' into the position
shewn at Figures 9, when the loops will be free to pass over the tongues and
slide off the needles, and the thread which the needles a has drawn in tension
round the needles 6 will be confined under their hooks. This movement of
the loops is facilitated by the rising of the work-lifting bar 6', which, from its
connection (through their jointed rods 3 and levers 4 and 5) with the rocking
frame B*, receives an upward movement at the time the needles 6 are
depressed; the work-lifting bar rises from its quiescent position, Fig. 8, to
that shewn at Fig. 9, and in doing so it pushes up the loops from the stems of
the vertical needles and forces them over the tongues, when they are caught
by the thread under the hooks and form a rib on the fabric. One course of
ribbed loop fabric being thus completed, the needles, and the other parts of
the machine in immediate connection therewith, take the positions shewn at
Figures 3 and 4 to commence a new course. The rotation of the pinion e
being continued, the bent arm or wiper n is brought into contact with the
bowl o, and the lever G is driven back into its former position, together with
the slur cock and thread carrier, which latter laps the thread round the left-
hand selvage pin a¹ and lays it on the needles a, as before; the same series of
operations as before explained are then repeated, and a second course of
work is perfected, in like manner course after course is produced with great
regularity and dispatch. It should be here remarked, that the plate s now
coming in contact with the first of the sinkers on the left-hand side of the
machine is driven into the dotted position, Fig. 6, when it is ready to receive
the sinkers on its upper edge as they are brought up by the inclined edge of
the plate r. We would further remark, that our vertical sliding sinkers may
be applied to the ordinary stocking frame in place of the jacks and sinkers now
used. In this case we should mount them upon a horizontal bar attached to
the ordinary hanging cheeks and lift them by the slur cock, above described,
the horizontal race or guide in which it slides being also attached to the
hanging cheeks. The motion of the slur cock may be obtained by a cord and
treadles as usual. This application of our improved sinkers will simplify the
machine, and considerably reduce the first cost of construction.
In Sheet II. our arrangement of machinery for manufacturing purl or turned
work is shewn in several views. Fig. 1 is a front view thereof; Fig. 2 is a
side view; Fig. 8 is a plan view.; and Fig. 4 is a longitudinal section taken
through the middle of the machine. The object of this arrangement is to
manufacture the fabric without its being necessary to lift the work off the
needles and turn it to produce the reversed purl. In this machine a set of
:

page_text: double needles, shewn in side and plan views at Figures 7 and 7*, are employed.
A represents the main framing; and B', B³, are two. horizontal needle bars
which traverse over the framing: These bars are provided. at their ends with
guide rods 6, 6*, which slide in, guides: c, c*, attached to the sides of the
framing A: To the under side of each..of the guide. rods b; b, a bracket is
attached for the purpose of carrying two pairs of friction bowls d, d, which
are respectively acted upon by, the excentrics, e, e, mounted on the, main
driving shaft B, and made to slide in opposite directions. When released from.
the action of these' cams they are returned to their quiescent. position by spiral
springs. A is an upper framing, bolted on the top of the main framing, and
intended to carry the slur cock, the sinkers, and the cam roller; for working,
them: The needle bars B¹, B³, are each furnished on their upper face
with two lips or ribs, one of which is notched and forms a guide for the
needles to slide in, and the other acts as a stopping or abutting piece for the
ends of the needles. The row of needles is temporarily attached to one or
other of the needle bars during certain portions of the operation of the
machine by means of the fallers f, f*, which fall over the hooks, of the
needles and prevent them from being drawn out of their places; these fallers
are connected by jointed brackets to their respective needle bars, and therefore
move backwards, and forwards with them, but at the time the needles are
required to be released from either of the needle bars, the faller of that bar.
from which the needles, are to be removed will come in contact with the
chamfered. end of..one of two stationary projecting fingers 9,9*, (see Figures. 3
and 4) which will throw up the faller and leave the needles free. The fingers
g, g*, are screwed on to the foot of the upper framing A*, which stands over a
frame h, and is with it bolted to the main framing; this frame is. provided
with two: series of parallel grooves for receiving the row of needles, and,' with
the assistance of the needle bars, of supporting and guiding them in all.their
movements.. i, i, are two parallel bars, placed in the hollow of the frame h,
and attached thereto, their use, being to assist in bringing the work over the
needles and maintaining it in a central position.
of the framing A are two springs k, k, the inner ends of which are rounded
and bent up at right angles (see Fig. 4) to form selvage pins; they have an
inclined partiat. to, meet, the incline of the jointed brackets of the fallers f,f*;
5 as the needle bars move in and out, and thereby become depressed, to draw
down the selvage pins from the work; are the sinkers, which slide in guides
attached to the sinker bar m. These sinkers have a double termination,
as at,, for the purpose of acting on the thread, in two positions;
according to which end of the row of needles is engaged in, making
Bolted; to the inner side

page_text: I
the work. n.is the thread carrier, supported by and capable of sliding
on.a rod o, which is attached to the upper end of the frame A*; to the
top of this frame a guide piece p is secured, its object being to rock the
thread carrier on its fulcrum so as to change the position of its lower end
to suit the varied positions of the needles. The detached view, Fig. 5, which
shews the guide piece in plan view, will fully explain its construction. The
springs at the bend in the endless groove are for throwing forward the end
of the guide of the thread carrier into the return groove, as will be well
understood. The traverse of the thread carrier is effected by the following
means:-q, q, is a cord or strap fastened to the carrier and passing over the
direction pullies 1, 1, 2; 2; its ends are secured to the levers 7; *. These
levers rock on fulcrum pins projecting from the framing, and are each provided
with friction bowls, which are always in contact with and are acted upon by a
pair of cams s, s, mounted on the main driving shaft B; when, therefore,
this shaft is actuated, it will, through the cams. s, s, cause the levers r,*,
alternately to move in the direction of the arrow, and thus to draw the cord
with the thread to the right and left alternately. On the shaft B is a cog
wheel T, which gears into a similar wheel u on the axle of the cam roller
C, and communicates motion thereto; this roller C is intended to raise the
sinkers like the slur cock, and support them in their elevated position at
certain periods of the working of the machine. Its construction will be readily
understood by reference to the detached plan view, Fig. 6. The mode of
working this our improved machine is as follows:-Some courses of work are
first formed as usual, and a row of loops left on the stems of the needles; then,
supposing rotary motion to be communicated to the shaft B and the machine
to be in the position shewn in the Drawing, the largest radius of the cams e
will have thrust outward the needle bar B to its fullest extent, and have
drawn off the row of loops from the needles (as shewn in Fig. 8, and in the
detached view Fig. 7). The next movement will be the return of the needle
bar B by reason of the contraction of its coiled spring, the decreasing radius:
of the cam being by this time presented to the bowls d*. While the needle
bar B thus traverses inward, its faller f* will come in contact with the fixed
finger g, and be thrown upwards out of contact with the hooks of the needles,
the bar B³ still continuing its movement inward will carry forward the needles,
until their ends, which contain the thread last thrown into the machine, &
slide on to the needle bar B', and are made to abut against its stopping piece,
before mentioned. The cams e-will now begin to act upon the bowls d and
thereby drive out the needle bar B', which as it moves will draw the faller f
clear of the finger g, when it will be allowed to fall over the hooks on the near

page_text: end of the row of needles and hold them on to the needle bar B¹. The con-
tinued motion of this bar will bring the needles into the position shewn at
Fig. 8, which is the proper position for the needles to receive the thread upon
their opposite or right-hand ends. The thread carrier will then (actuated in
the manner before described) traverse across the machine and lay a thread
upon
the needles at the part marked *, Fig. 8, which will then be depressed by
the sinker. During this progress of the needle the loop on the stem will:
have been stopped against one of the rods i, and will have thrown back, the
tongue at the end a¹ of the needle (Fig. 8), will have passed over it and have
come under the tongue of the end a² ready to turn that over and slide off the
needle. The further progress of the needle bar B¹ will effect this action and
bring the row of needles into the position shewn at Fig. 9, when the row of
loops will have slidden off the needles and been caught by the thread under the
hooks, thus completing a course of work. The continued action of the machine
will be precisely similar to that above described. The descent of the sinkers.
follows the action of the thread carrier, the part & being employed to sink the.
thread which is laid on the left-hand end of the needles, and the part to
depress the thread laid on the right-hand end thereof. The selvage pins are, as
before stated, respectively depressed to free them of the work, and while the
needles are being shifted from one needle bar to the other a
return to their elevated positions.
are allowed to
At Figures 10 and 11 we have shewn a modification of the above arrange-
ment in side and front views. In this instance the double needles a, instead
of having a hook and tongue at each end, are formed with the ordinary beard.
A slot (see Fig. 10*) is cut in each end of the needles to allow of the two
rows of pickers b, b,* respectively passing through the needles to lift the loops
over the beards. Each row of pickers is fixed in its respective bar c, c*, from
each of which proceeds an arm,. which is jointed to a lever d, having its
fulcrum at e. The lever is provided with a friction bowl, which rests upon a
revolving cam f, and a spring rivetted to the lever presses on the arm of the
bar c for the purpose of giving the pickers a direction towards the rods 2¹
(similar to those shown at Fig. 3), between which the work passes to the
work roller. The way in which the needles are supported and moved horizon-
tally is precisely similar to that above explained; the action of all the other.
parts is likewise the same, the only further explanation required will be with
regard to the pickers. When a thread has been thrown across the needles and
the needles have been drawn back to bring it under the beards thereof, as at *,
the pickers 6* will rise through the slots and take up the row of loops which
the receding needles have brought against the bar i and lay them over the.
"

page_text: beards, when they will be free to slip off the needles in the same manner as if
the beards were depressed, and be caught by the thread under the beards,
thereby forming a loop. of work. The further backward movement of the
needles to effect this will bring the end of the slots of the needles into
contact with the line of pickers 6* and throw them into the dotted position,
Fig. 10, and by the time the needles are required to move forward towards
their other needle bar the smaller radius of the cam f will have come round in
contact with the bowl of the lever d, and the picker bar c* will fall into the
position of the bar c, when the needles will be free to move forward without
interruption from the pickers. When the needles have taken the proper
position for their other end to receive a thread, the pickers 6 will enter the
slots at that end, raise up the row of loops which has been brought against the
other rod i, and lay them over the beards. Thus, instead of the loops slipping
off the needles by sliding over the tongues, as in the former instance, or by
sliding over the depressed beards, according to the old plan, they are lifted
mechanically on to the beards. and then drop off as usual to form a new course
of work.
In Sheet 3 of the Drawings our improved needle is shewn applied to a new
arrangement of rotary knitting machine for manufacturing tubular fabrics.
As this kind of knitting machine is composed. (as is well known) of several
repetitions of like parts, we have in our Drawing shewn only one complete set
of parts in connection with others that are common to the several sets of parts
in the machine. Fig. 1 is a partial front view. of the improved machine;
Fig. 2 is a partial sectional plan view, taken immediately above the needles;
and Fig. 3 is a partial sectional elevation of the same. A is a wooden bed, to
which a central vertical shaft B is firmly secured; C is a hollow shaft fitting
over the shaft B and revolving upon it. This shaft C (the periphery of which
is hexagonal) is provided at its lower end with a cog wheel a, in gear with a
pinion 6, which is mounted on a vertical spindle c, and supported by a fixed
collar attached to the bed A. On the lower end of the spindle c is a bevil
wheel, taking into another bevil wheel, which is mounted on the driving shaft
D of the machine; rotary motion is thus communicated to the hollow shaft C,
and from it to the several parts of the machine. At the top of the shaft C is a
collar d, to which a set of radial arms are bolted; these arms carry a'ring e, from
which the several bobbins for feeding the machine with thread are suspended: f
is a similar collar, secured to the shaft C, and to it radial arms are bolted, which
carry a ring g. Attached to this ring by pendent brackets is another ring h, which
sustains the thread guides i and thread carriers k. E, E, are standards, bolted
to the bed A, and carrying a-ring 1, which forms a horizontal guide for the

page_text: needles m, and its outer face being grooved-vertically, it forms also a guide for
the sinkers n. These standards also support the rings o and p, the former of
which serves to support and guide the sinkers, and the latter to determine the
distance of their fall, as is well understood. Fixed in front of these. standards,
by means of brackets bolted thereto, is a face ring 9, its object being to prevent
the sinkers from coming forward out of their place, and also to stop the, work
from being drawn inwards when the needles recede. r, r, are the slur. cocks
for lifting the sinkers; they are supported by brackets from the ring 9, and
revolve therewith. The needles m are set radially in the machine, and are
each attached to a crank lever s, which levers rock upon the rounded edge of
a ring t secured to the bed A. The tails of these levers work between steady
pins u, and they are further steadied in their movements by the bent wires v,
to receive which notches are cut in the ring t. The levers s are made to rock
by means of the presser wheels w, w, which are supported by brackets from a
ring x, which is itself carried by radial arms projecting from a collar on the
lower end of the hollow shaft C. To. this ring a. the pendent pieces y, y, are
also attached; the use of which pieces is to depress the tails of the levers, and
to draw back the needles after they have been thrust forward by the action of
the presser wheel w. The action of this machine is as follows:Rotary
motion being given to the shaft C, it will carry round with it the ring e with
its bobbins, the ring 9 with its thread carries and slur cocks, and the ring a
with its presser wheels and pendent presser pieces at the same speed; a suc-
cession of the same movements will therefore follow in regular order from the
action of the several parts then set in motion. When the needles m are in
the position shewn at Fig. 3 the slur cock r will have lifted the adjacent
sinkers; the thread carrier k will now lay the thread on to the needles, and as
it passes on in its revolution round the central axle the sinkers will be allowed
to fall and sink the thread between the needles. The presser wheel w, which
had brought the needles into the position to receive the thread, will by this
time have escaped past the back of the levers s, which it had driven forward;
this will allow the presser pieces y to act on the tail of the levers, and which
pieces y, by forcing them down, cause the needles to recede; the loops on the
stems of the needles will now successively come in contact with the respective
tongues thereof and throw them over towards the hooked end of the needles
at the same time that the thread just thrown on to the needles is drawn under
the hooks, the loops will then pass off the needles and be caught by the thread
under the hooks, when a new course of work will be formed. The next suc-
ceeding presser wheel will now drive forward the needles again successively
and cause the thread to escape from under their hooks, in doing which.it will

page_text: throw back the tongues, and passing over them hang in loops on the stems of
the several needles, the needles will then be ready to receive a fresh thread
from the next succeeding thread carrier. These operations will quickly follow
each other, as is well understood, and be taking place simultaneously in several
parts of the machine, according to the number of sets of thread carriers, slur
cocks, presser wheels, &c. employed. To ensure the quick descent of the
sinkers after the slur cock has left them, a spring z for each set of working
parts attached to the rotating ring h is made to bear upon their upper ends, as
shewn at Fig. 1. 2¹ is one of a series of pendent arms, also attached to the
ring h, and carrying a finger ³, which in its rotation presses the work against
the face ring 9, and with it forms a guide to direct the work down away
from the machine. Instead of employing presser wheels like those shewn at
Fig. 2, which press forward every needle in succession, we sometimes employ a
presser which will act upon every alternate needle lever, or miss every third,
fourth, or fifth needle, as the case may be, whereby the effect known in the
trade as "tuck" work will be produced. The presser wheel shewn at Fig. 4
is cut on its periphery t, so as to miss every alternate needle lever, and it is
obvious that by lengthening the raised parts it can be made to act upon two or
more successively, and then miss one, as required.
When we wish to employ the ordinary construction of needles in our improved
rotary knitting machine, we attach to the thread carrier ring h a series of
pressers, similar to that shewn in side and edge views at Figures 5 and 6, for
the purpose of pressing down the beards of the needles. The presser consists of
a disc wheel a, the central axle of which is mounted in a slotted saddle piece b,
pendent from the ring h, but secured thereto by a bolt. On one side of the
saddle piece is a clamp screw, round which a spring c is bent, its ends being
brought round to opposite ends of the axle of the wheel, so as to press the
wheel down upon the beards of the needles, and yet allow for any inequality in
the height of the needles.
In Sheet IV. of the Drawings we have shewn an arrangement of machinery
for manufacturing a.double fabric without a seam, to be used for making up
into what are known in the trade as "imperial cravats" without a seam. In
this machine our improved construction of beardless needle is also employed.
Fig. 1. is a front elevation of the machine.; Fig. 2 is a vertical section, and
Fig. 3 a partial plan view of the same; Fig. 4 is a. Diagram view. on an
enlarged scale, shewing the traverse of the threads to form the work. A, A,
is the main framing of the machine; and B, the driving shaft, on which is
mounted an excentric wheel C. This wheel has an endless groove cut on its face
to receive the friction bowl of a rocking lever. D, affixed to and pendent from

page_text: a rocking bar E, which is supported by center pins from the main framing
A. Attached to this bar E are two pairs of arms F, F*, which embrace
the needle bar G, and communicate an up-and-down motion thereto, vertical
slots being made in the framing to receive the ends of the bar and allow of
its taking that motion. To the bar G are attached two rows of needles a, a,
b, b, set back to back, and at one end of each row the stem of the last needle
is bent to bring its upper end to an intermediate distance between the two
rows, as shewn at a" and 6*; they are also made to stand a little higher than
the other needles. H is a bar, affixed to the framing A, and over it the
sinkers c, c, ride, suitable guide plates being attached to the bar to steady them
in their movements. These sinkers, like those in the second described
arrangement, have a forked end, but, unlike that arrangement, both parts
are are brought into use simultaneously. To the bar H are bolted 'two
pendent arms d, d, which support two horizontal slotted bars e, e, and
also at right angles thereto two parallel bars 9, 9, which are situate between
the two rows of needles, the end needles a*, 6*, being embraced by them.
In the slots of the bars e, e, two sliding bars f. f, are respectively sup-
ported, and to these a series of supporting pins of thin strips of metal (cast
in leads) are bolted, as shewn at Fig. 3. The use of these pins will be presently
explained. These sliding bars are connected together at their ends by coiled
springs f, f, Fig. 3, which give them a tendency to approach each other.
This tendency is checked at certain periods of the machine's operations by
means of two pairs of bent arms h, h, which are attached to either side of the
needle bar (sce Fig. 2), and bear against the inner edges of the sliding bars
ff; when, therefore, the needle bar is depressed, the arms h, h, will drive
back the sliding bars f, f, in their slots. i, i, are spring catches attached to
the main framing; their object is to support the needle bar while the thread
is being thrown on to the needles; they are released from the needle bar by
the arms F* in their descent coming in contact with them. k, k, is the bar for
raising the sinkers. It is connected at each end by the rods and rocking
levers to the needle bar, and thereby receives an upward motion when that
bar descends, and vice versa. m is the slur cock, supported in its race n. It
is constructed in the manner described with reference to Sheet I. of the
Drawings, and acts in the same way upon the backs of the sinkers. It may
be worked by cords passing over guide pullies, as indicated at Fig. 1, and
attached to treadles, or by any oscillating lever, as before described. To the
slur cock is bolted a bent arm o, which increases in width at its upper end,
and is slotted to receive a pin p, projecting from the lower side of a sliding
piece q. This sliding piece traverses a fixed bar 1, and is provided with a

page_text: '
friction spring to steady it in its course. On the top of this piece q is a
sliding saddle piece s, the sides of which are grooved to receive guide ribs on
the piece 9, which keep it on its seat. Attached to the saddle piece is a
double thread carrier t, t, which is made elastic, and bent into the form of a
loop, so as to pass over the slur cock and sinkers and bring the threads under
the hooks of the needles. This peculiar contrivance for carrying the thread
carrier is to allow of the traverse motion being taken from the slur cock, and
yet for the slur cock to move in advance of the thread carrier. This it will
do by the length of the slot in the arm o, for until the end of the slot has
come in contact with the pin p, the sliding pieces which support the carrier
will not move. u, u, are two pair of inclines, fixed to either end of the main
framing, their object being to bend the ends of the thread carrier out of their
straight course (after they have laid the thread over the rows of needles) and
to turn them inwards, thus causing them each to lay a thread under the hook
of the end needle, as shewn at 6*, Fig. 4; the return of the slur cock. to the
opposite end of the machine will draw the thread carrier out of contact with
the inclines which had just acted upon them, when its ends (being released)
will spring into their former position, lay a thread upon their respective rows
of needles, as before, and coming against the other pair of inclines u, u, will
be in like manner bent out of their course, and made to lap a thread round
the other end needle. The saddle pieces being capable of an independent
movement (it being held to the sliding piece 9 by merely a friction spring)
will admit of the thread carrier performing these motions with the greater
precision. The movements of the saddle piece are, hower, limited by the set
screws v, v.
The following description will explain the mode of manufacturing the
double seamless fabric:-The machine, as shewn in the' Drawing, being in a
position to commence a course of work, motión is given to the slur cock in
the direction of the arrow, Fig. 1, by a cord or oscillating lever, when the
sinkers are successively raised, and the ends of the thread carrier following
lay a thread in front of each row of needles and under the hook of the end
needle 6*. At this time the supporting pins f*, f*, of the sliding bars f, f, lio
between the needles, as shewn.. at Fig. 2, and sustain the threads which the
thread carrier has just thrown into the machine; the 'sinkers now fall and
sink the thread between the. supporting pins. While this is being effected,
rotary motion communicated to the shaft B will have brought the part # of
the cam C round to the bowl of the lever .D, and the lower end of this lever
will be driven out, which will cause the needle bar G to be depressed, and
thus draw the threads. just thrown into the machine under the hooks of the

page_text: needles. The downward motion of the needle bar will, by means of the bent
arms h, drive back the supporting pins clear of the needles, and will cause the
row of loops on the stems of the needles to come in contact with the tongues
of the needles, as explained in the previous arrangement, (the loops having a
tension given to them by the drag of the work over the edges of the plates
g, g, between which the work passes to leave the machine,) when the tongues
will be thrown upwards and the loops will slide over the beads' of the needles
and be caught by the threads under the hooks: Thus a course will be produced
on the two rows of needles simultaneously, and the end needle 6* will form a
connecting loop between them, as shewn at 6*, Fig. 4. It will be understood
that as the fall of the needle bar G and the rise of the sinker bar h are
simultaneous, the sinkers will have been lifted out of the way previous to the
throwing off of the course of work; the continued rotation of the cam C
will bring back the needle bar, and carry it to its highest position; when the
threads under the hooks of the needles will slide down as .loops on to the
stems of the needles; the needle bar will now descend to the position shown
in Fig. 2, where the catches i, i, will sustain it until the needles have received
a fresh supply of thread, the supporting pins f*f*, following the course of
the needles, will be ready to receive the 'thread at the next succeeding traverse
of the thread 'carrier t. The slur cock is now drawn back in the opposite
direction to the arrow, Fig. 1, and the 'thread carrier following its ends as
they are released from the pressure of the inclines u, will lap a thread round
the needle a*, Fig. 4; as shewn by the red lines in that Figure. The succeeding
movements being a repetition of those above mentioned, no further description
will be requisite.
In Sheet V. of the accompanying Drawings we have shewn our improved con-
struction of needle as applied to a new arrangement of warp-knitting machinery.
Fig. 1 is a front view of the machine; Fig. 2 is a vertical section,taken in the
line 1, 2 of Fig. 1'; and Fig. 8 is a horizontal section, taken immediately
above the row of needles. A, A, is the main framing of the machine; and B,
the driving shaft, which is provided with a winch handle for turning it; a, a,
are the needles, fixed in leads as usual, and these leads are secured to the
needle bar b, which is provided at its extremities with guide rods c, c; these
guide rods slide in guide brackets attached to the main framing A. In the
bar 6 two holes are made to receive the upper-ends of a pair of rocking levers
d, d, which are mounted on a common-shaft and rock upon centre pins d*, d*
projecting inwards from the main framing. These levers are for the purpose
of giving the necessary backward and forward horizontal motion to the needles.
They are themselves actuated by means of a came, mounted on the shaft B,

page_text: which cam is always in contact with the friction bowlf of one of the levers d,
and drives it back in the direction of the arrow at every revolution of the shaft
B; the weight on the lever g, which is bolted to the lever d that carries the
bowl f, brings back the levers with the needle bar to their forward position.
h, k, are the guides for conducting the warp threads from the beam i. to the
needles; they are fixed in leads as usual, and the leads are attached to the
guide bar, which is supported in the usual way, and shogged in the manner
to be presently described. On a stud 1, attached to the side of the framing
A, a vibrating lever m is mounted; jointed to its shorter limb is an arm n,
which carries at its lower end a grooved pulley o; this pulley rides over a
up the
cam p, mounted on the shaft B, and as that shaft revolves the cam forces"
'pulley o, and with it the pendent arm n, thereby causing the end of the lever
m, to which the arm n is attached, to rise, and its other end to be depressed.
This outer end of the lever m carries a pawle or clawker q, which takes into
'a ratchet wheel r, mounted on a stud carried by a bracket pieces, bolted to
the main framing, and on the same stud is a cam t, in contact with which the
end of the sliding bar k is kept by means of a spiral spring u, one end of which
is attached to the bark and the other to the bracket piece s. When, there-
fore, the lever m is made to vibrate, the pawle 9 will draw the ratchet wheel "
round part of a revolution, and bring round with it the cam t, whereby the
guides h will be shogged. is a spring, fixed to the stud of the lever m, and
pressing on the under side thereof, for the purpose of throwing up that lever
into the position shewn in the Drawing; the spiral spring w is for keeping the
pawle in contact with the teeth of the ratchet wheel. is a horizontal bar,
bolted to the front of the framing, and carrying a comb y, between the teeth
of which the needles retire to push off the formed loops. The comb consists
of thin strips of metal cast into leads. In front of the bar is a plate z, for
guiding the work down to the work roller. The action of the machine will be
readily understood. The needles being in the position shewn at Fig. 2, the
guide bar k is shogged and threads are laid on the needles, the needles are
then drawn back by the means before explained, and the loops on the stems of
the row of needles coming in contact with the tongues of the needles turn them
over on to the hooks, and are thus free to slide off the needles and embrace the
threads which had been just laid under the hooks, thus forming a fresh course
of work. On the needles returning to their former position, the threads
escape from under the hooks, turn back the tongues, pass over them, and take
the place of the former loops; a repetition of the same movements of the
several parts then takes place to form another course, and so on for every
succeeding course of work.

page_text: Having now described the nature of our Invention of "Improvements in
Machinery for the Manufacture of Looped Fabrics," and shewn the mode
of carrying the same into practical operation, we wish it to be understood that
we claim,
First, the peculiar construction of needle shown at Figures 1 and 2, Sheet I.,
of the Drawings, whereby we are enabled to dispense with the use of a presser
bar. We also claim the exclusive right to the double needle, constructed after
the same principle, and shewn at Figures 7, Sheet II. And further we claim
the double-bearded needle and the parts employed in connection therewith, as
shewn at Figures 10 and 10*, Sheet II.
Secondly, we claim the general arrangement of machinery described with
reference to Sheet I. of the Drawings, for the manufacture of ribbed fabrics;
and particularly we claim the peculiar construction of vertical sliding
sinkers, as therein shewn; and also the peculiar construction of slur cock for
working the same, whether these be applied to our new arrangements of
knitting machinery or any other kind of machinery employed in the manu-
facture of looped fabrics.
Thirdly, we claim the arrangement of machinery described with reference to
Sheet II. of the Drawings, for the manufacture of purl or turned fabrics, and
this machine we claim, whether employed in connection with either of our
improved construction of double needles or any other which may be devised for
the manufacture of looped fabrics.
Fourthly, we claim the arrangement of rotary machinery, described with
reference to Sheet III. of the Drawings. Also the peculiar construction of
presser wheel, as described with reference to Fig. 4, Sheet III. And likewise
the construction of beard presser, as shewn at Figures 5 and 6, Sheet III.
Fifthly, we claim the general arrangement of machinery described with
reference to Sheet IV. of the Drawings for making a double seamless fabric.
And particularly we claim the arrangement of the needles, as shewn, and
the employment of an elastic double-thread carrier, as described.
Sixthly, we claim the arrangement of warp knitting machinery, described
with reference to Sheet V. of the Drawings.
In witness whereof, I, the said Matthew Townsend, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Thirteenth day of August, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and forty-nine.
MATTHEW (L.S.) TOWNSEND.
B,

page_text: AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the Thirteenth day of August, in
the year of our Lord 1849, the aforesaid Matthew Townsend came before
our said Lady the Queen in Her Chancery, and acknowledged the Specifi-
cation aforesaid, and all and every thing therein contained and specified, in
form above written. And also the Specification aforesaid was stamped accord-
ing to the tenor of the Statute made for that purpose.
Enrolled the Thirteenth day of August, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and forty-nine.