IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MACHINERY FOR FRAME- WORK KNITTING, COMMONLY CALLED HOSLERY, AND FOR CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN SUCH FRAMEWORK KNITTING on HOSIERY in
Year: 1841

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM
HESE PRESENTS SHALL
JOHNSON, of Glasgow, Gentleman, send greeting.
ME, 1, JAMES
WHEREAS Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date at West-
minster, the Eighth day of March in the fourth year of Her reign, did, for
Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the said James
Johnson, Her especial licence, full power, sole privilege and authority, that I,
the said James Johnson, my exors, adñiors, and assigns, and such others as
I, the said James Johnson, my exors, adññiors, and assigns, should at any
time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times during
the term of years therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use,
exercise, and vend, within England and Wales and the Town of Berwick-
upon-Tweed, my Invention of " IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MACHINERY FOR FRAME-
WORK KNITTING, COMMONLY CALLED HOSLERY, AND FOR CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN
SUCH FRAMEWORK KNITTING on HOSIERY;" in which said Letters Patent is
contained a proviso that I, the said James Johnson, shall cause a particular
description of the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same
is to be performed, to be inrolled in Her Majesty's High Court of Chancery
within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said
in part recited Letters Patent, as in and by the same, reference being
thereunto had, will more fully and at large appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said James Johnson, do hereby declare the
nature of my Invention of Certain Improvements in the Machinery for

page_text: Framework Knitting, commonly called Hosiery, and for certain Improvements
in such Framework Knitting or Hosiery, to consist in certain new mechanical
arrangements or constructions of machinery by which the operation of frame-
work knitting is performed with greater dispatch and economy than by the
ordinary machinery, and in certain new fabrics or descriptions of framework
knitting or hosiery produced. And the manner in which the same is to be
performed and carried into effect will be seen by reference to the annexed
Drawings and the following description thereof:-
In these Drawings the same letters and figures of reference denote the same
parts in the various views and sections there delineated, and the scale to which
such Drawings are made is marked thereon. But before I proceed to describe
my improvements, I will make a few remarks on the difficulties which present
themselves in working the ordinary framework knitting machinery or stocking
frame, which it is the object of my intention to obviate. It is well known to
manufacturers and persons conversant with the stocking frame, that a skilful
operative is required to each machine, on whom the narrowing of the hose, the
replacing and repairing of the needles, and the general superintendance of the
machine depends; and that as regards the needles, they are subject to such
constant breakage and derangement, from the nature of the machine, that
stoppages are frequent and uncertain, and all attempts to work such machinery
by power have proved fruitless. It is, therefore, only be removing such diffi-
culties, and rendering the machinery more completely self-acting, that the appli-
cation of power and the reduction of superintendance can be effected. The
self-acting machinery which I am about to describe is designed to be worked
by power, and the superintendance of a number of machines to be performed
by one and the same person, who will not be required to possess the skill requi-
site for the superintendance of the ordinary stocking frame. In the annexed
Drawings Figure 1 represents a front view, Figure 2 an end view, and Figure 8
a transverse section of one description of knitting machinery, to which part
of my improvements are applied. In the distribution of the yarn or thread,
and in the manner of forming the loop, this machine resembles the ordinary
stocking frame, excepting that the machine itself performs both movements, as
well as every other motion required for perfecting the fabric or hosiery to be
manufactured. To render the action and construction of this machine better
understood, I shall divide it into five movements, namely, first, the distribution
of the yarn or thread and forming of the loop for making the hosiery; second,
the depressing the yarn or thread for the purpose of forcing such loops into
the hook of the needle; third, the retiring and advancing of the needles for
receiving and disposing of the loops; fourth, the advancing, elevating, and

page_text: retiring of a series of points for taking the loops from the needles and
liberating them in succession to form the fabric; and, fifth, the movement for
narrowing the fabric, which movement is not in operation excepting when
required. The first four movements constitute all which are required to form
a piece of hosiery of a uniform width, and the fifth movement will decrease
the width one loop at each selvage every fourth course or distribution of yarn
or thread when put in operation. Referring to Figure 1, A represents the
main shaft of the machine, provided with fast and loose pullies, by which it
receives a uniform rotation by means of a strap driven by any adequate
power, and one revolution of this shaft A performs the four or five movements
before enumerated on each side of the machine, the opposite side, though not
represented in the Drawing, being exactly similar to that represented at
Figure 1. The first movement, or that for distributing the yarn or thread
and forming it into a succession of loops, is performed as follows:-On the
opposite extremity of the shaft A to that on which the driving pullies are
placed is attached the small spur wheel 'A, which at each rotation imparts
half a revolution to the spur wheel B, (see Figure 2,) gecring into the wheel
B. These wheels B and B₁ necessarily revolve in opposite directions, as
indicated by the arrows of their periphery. Each wheel is provided with a
rack segment b and b, which periodically gear into and revolve the pinion 26
and the pulley C, so that the pulley C has an alternating movement of about
one revolution in opposite directions as often as the segments 6 and '6 come
in gear with the pinion . Attached to the pulley C are two bands d
and d, which pass over carrier pullies, the one d being attached direct to the
small carriage D, (see Figure 1,) and the other a passing the whole length of
the machine over a second carrier pulley and returning to be attached at the
opposite side of the carriage D, by which arrangement the carriage D
is traversed the length of the machine in one direction or the other at each
alternate revolution of the pulley C, each traverse corresponding to one half
revolution of the shaft A. Immediately above the pulley C, at Fig. 2, will be
seen a similar pulley C, actuated by the same segment racks 6 and 'b, and
designed to convey a similar movement to the other side of the machine.
on
The small carriage D moves freely on a fixed rail or straight-edge D, ǹ,
which is also placed the moving piece. E for the purpose of carrying the yarn
or thread, the course of which is shewn at the red line in the section at Figure 3,
where the peculiar construction of these parts are also best seen. To the front
of the moving part D is attached a small double inclined plane e, c, which vibrates
the levers from the position scen at. Figure 3.to the position indicated by

page_text: dotted lines.. This vibration proceeds at the same time as the distribution of the
thread or yarn, and the effect is to press the yarn into the spaces between the
B
opposite jacks e instead of pressing it between the needles, às is the practice in
the ordinary stocking frame. The distribution of thread or yarn having been
1
completed, and the loops formed by the movement of the levers e, the second
motion or the depressing of the loops for the purpose of forcing them on to
the hooked needles immediately takes place. This is effected by the flat face.
of the tappits F, F, placed on the shaft A, as seen in plan, Figure 4. and.
Figure 3,, which allow the frame ffff, in
supported, to descend and depress the lever f.
tappet F, F, revolves, the frame f, f, f, f, is
position, and the inclined edge at the top of the lever e¹ coming in contact
8.
1.
2
and e are
But as the
which the parts
See Figure 2.
again. elevated to its former
with the revolving rod e, they are forced back into their original position,
ready to admit the succeeding distribution of yarn, as seen at full size at
Figure 8. At the same time that this movement is proceeding, the third
movement, or the retiring the needle takes place, which is also effected by
means of the tappits G, G, on the shaft A. In Figure 4, 9, g, represent one
side or frame, which partakes of an horizontal alternating movement
dependent on the tappits G, G. On each side of this frame the needle bars
1 1
The hooked needles
2:
9, 9, are attached, and adjusted by means of set screws.
with which these bars are provided pass through a series of cuts or openings in
the fixed bar i, i, into which the needles are retired as soon as the second
movement of the machine or the placing of the loops in the hook of the
needle is completed. As the revolution of the shaft A proceeds, it again forces
out the needles; for the purpose of narrowing, as performed by the fifth move-
ment, when required, as will be hereafter explained, but they are immediately
retired again by a small stud on the tappit G acting on the part g, and the
lever el and jack c depressed by the tappits F, F, so as to intersect the
hooked needles on their again coming out to their, full length, and thereby
keep back the loop firm to the face of the fixed bari, i, as seen at Figure 3..
The fourth movement, or the taking off the loop from the needles, now comes.
into operation, and is effected also by a tappit motion proceeding from the
tappits L, L, on the shaft A, which convey a depressing, horizontal, elevating
and retiring movement to the bar k, k, which is provided with a series of
needle points, moving in the small openings or cuts in the bar i, i, as seen at
Figures 1, 3, 4, and in section at the full size at Figure 5: I would here
remark that the form of the needles is quite different from that. used in the

page_text: ordinary stocking frame, having only a short hook, as seen at Figure 5, and
being provided with a lateral slit or recess for receiving the points arranged on
the bar k, by which the loop is to be taken from it, as seen at Figure 6. To
shew the distinction between the hooked needle I use and the ordinary needle
of the stocking frame, I have given a view of the latter at Figure 7, which has
an elongated hook and is elastic, whereas my improved needle has an ex-
tremely short hook, and requires no elasticity. The first three movements of
the machine are now repeated, and a new loop being placed in the hook of
cach needle, they are retired within the small openings or cuts of the bar i, i,
as already explained, at which period the tappits L, L, place the points of the
bar k, k, (holding the former loops) in the position shewn in dotted lines at
Figure 5. These points also immediately retiring, the loop they held is
liberated, and falling over the new loop on the hooked needle, the framework
stitch is complete, and the bar k, k, assumes the position seen at Figure 5,
preparatory to taking up the succeeding loop from the hooked needle. Thus
the whole of the four movements for forming the framework stitch are gone
through by one revolution of the shaft A, and a piece of hosiery formed of a
uniform width by the self-acting operation of the machine, the yarn or thread
being supplied from a cop or bobbin, supported in any convenient position
above the machine, as seen in red lines at Figures 2 and 3, where the course
of the yarn will be best scen. The fifth, or narrowing movement of the
machine, is put in operation at the proper period required by the nature of the
work to be performed, and its commencement must depend on the judgment
and attention of the operative; but when put in action it will proceed
regularly along with the work, reducing a loop on each selvage at every fourth
course. The manner in which this movement is effected will be best seen at
Figure 3 and 4, where I represents a spur wheel on the shaft A, which can
be moved according to the judgment of the operative, so as to place it in or
out of gear with the spur wheel M; and supposing it in gear, and the narrow-
ing to be proceeding, four revolutions of the shaft A will impart one revolution
to the wheel M. On the face of the wheel M is placed the stud m (see
Figure 3), which at every revolution gathers one tooth in the pinion n,
supported on a small shaft, the opposite end of which carries the pinion N,
geering into two reverse racks O and P (see Figures 1 and 3), so that the
racks O and P are drawn one tooth nearer the centre of the machine at each
revolution of the wheel M, as indicated by the arrows at Figure 1, and at the
same time narrow the distance of the stoppers È, E, placed on the rail Ď, b,
by by means of bands E, E, with which they, are connected, and thereby limit
D,

page_text: the distribution of thread or yarn. Attached to the opposite extremities of theso
racks are the two pointed spring pieces of a peculiar construction, as shewn
at full size at Figures 9 and 10. These points are constructed of two elastic
springs cach, the opening of which is indicated in dotted lines at Figure 10;
and when the work is of the whole width of the machine, these points are
placed perpendicularly under the two end needles, as seen at Figure 1. The
whole apparatus for this movement is placed in the carriages Q, Q, and
partakes of a perpendicular traverse, imparted from the shaft r, r, and the
tappits R, R, on which it rests. The shaft r, r, is provided with a small
:
2
lever (see Figure 3), on which the stud presses at each revolution of the
wheel M to effect the elevation of the frame Q, Q. Supposing, therefore, the
needles to have retired into the metallic bar i, i, with the loop of thread or
yaru, and to have again advanced a short distance, as already explained, the
four points along with the racks O and P are elevated, and take the two loops
from the end needles, which immediately retire. At this period, and while
the stud, still presses on the lever r, the stud m comes in contact with the
wheel n, and narrows the racks O and P the distance of one needle, as
already explained. The needles immediately advance, and the second and
third needles at each end passing through the small openings in the points,
as seen at Figure 9, receive the loops, the lever r is relieved, the points fall,
and the hosiery is narrowed one loop at each selvage.
In the machinery
above described, the preceding loop which is to pass over the new loop
for the formation of the framework or knitting stitch is supported distinct
and separate from the needle while the new stitch passes through it, but in
the modification I am about to describe, the point on which the preceding
loop is supported, along with the bar k, k, is dispensed with. This is effected
by imparting one half a revolution to the hooked needles, which allows the
preceding loop to pass over the new loop, as will be better understood by
reference to Figure 8, where e represents a hooked needle, with the preceding
loop received and held up to the bar i, i, as already explained, and in a position
to receive a new loop. The new loop being placed in the hook, the needle
again retires, and is at the same time revolved one half a revolution, so that
the hook entering into the cut in the bar i, i, with the hook downwards, in the
position shewn at Figure 11, the loop is still retained, but the preceding
loop passes over and forms the knitting stitch, as will be seen by the red lines
which indicate the thread or yarn at Figure 11. The hooked needle is again
revolved to its original position before it leaves the bar i, i, and as the needles
G

page_text: advances the remaining loop is held up to the front of the bar i, i, by the
means already explained. This half revolution of the needles may be effected
in a variety of ways too simple to require any explanation. In another modi-
fication of this machinery for making ribbed work, the hooked needles are
5 placed in two rows, one above the other, as seen at Figure 12. On receiving
the thread or yarn the hooks are placed towards each other, as at Figure 13,
but partaking of the half revolution as they retire, the preceding loop is
allowed to escape as already explained, and the finished fabric is conducted
between the needles in the direction of the arrow seen at Figure 13.
)
1
8
I shall now proceed to describe my improvements in such framework
knitting or hosiery which consist of three separate fabrics. First, a new
fabric formed on the machine already described, in which a separate thread
is used to each hooked needle; second, a fabric possessing a plush or piled
surface; and third, a fabric constructed by the ordinary framework stitch, but,
formed into a cylinder or tube without seam. Figure 14 is a front view, and
Figure 15 a side view, shewing the additional parts required for the first new
fabric. In the same position as the former lever e, which is dispensed with,
are placed a series of distributors i, each of which carries a separate thread or
yarn supplied from above the machine.. The motion and position of the part e
and the needles remain the same as described, when the needles make one
half a revolution to form the stitch, as already explained. In this fabric the
loop is formed on the needle by the whole of the distributors i being supported
on a frame and partaking of the same movement. In Figure 14 the distri-
butors are supposed to have moved in the direction of the arrow from the
dotted line to the position in which they are represented, and are now about
to descend to form a loop on the needles, which immediately retire. While
the needles are retired and the distributors depressed they advance the distance
of one needle further in the direction of the arrow, as indicated by the dotted
line to the left hand of the Figure; and the needles advancing again another
loop is formed on the adjoining needle by the distributors returning to their
original position, as represented. Thus each distributor forms loops for two
needles alternately, and an elastic and new description of hosiery is pro-
duced. The course of the yarn or thread used in this process may be seen at
Figure 16, where the red lines represent the yarn and the black dots
the position of the hooked needles. The second or plush fabric is formed
also on a similar machine to that first described, with some additions and
variations, two threads being used in the manufacture; but instead of form-

page_text: I
g
ing the loops by the action of the parts e and c, they are formed over the
needles by means of descending jacks of a peculiar form, but moving in
succession similar to the same movement in the ordinary stocking frame.
Figure 24 represents a front view of the needles as placed in the machine at
1
3
Figure 1, (the parts cand e being removed; y. represents a series of jacks
which are regularly placed to fall between each needle, and form the loop in
the ordinary manner. The peculiar form of these jacks is shewn at Figure 25
1
1
at full size, the part marked-y being formed into a sharp edge or cutting
knife. Figure 26 is the distributor, which passes along the whole row of
needles while the jacks are clevated in the position shewn in dotted lines at
Figure 25, distributing one thread in the opening above the knife edge y, and
the other upon the needles, as indicated by red lines. The distributor having.
arrived at the end of its traverse, the jacks are lowered in succession, and two
loops are formed on each needle, the one a long loop immediately above the
knife edge y, and the other a short loop under the hooked part at the back of
the jack y. The needles having retired and gone through the movement
required to form the stitch, as already explained, the jacks are clevated, and
the long loop still remaining on the knife edge y, is cut by the action, and
forms the pile or plush on the surface of the cloth, while the shorter stitch
binds it fast in the fabric. In Figures 24 and 27 the machine is drawn so as
to show the position in which the additional parts are attached, the remaining
movements being the same as those represented at Figures 1, 2, and 3. In
these Figures (24 and 27) y, y, y. y, represents a moving carriage or frame,
which receives and alternately traverse across the machine by means of the
pinion working into a rack, which passes the whole length of the frame.
This pinion y receives a periodical movement from a segment on the
wheel B, similar to that already described, except that this motion is conveyed
through an intermediate carrier wheel and two mitre bevils to place tho
3
s
3'
2 1 3 3
9
2
pinion y in a proper position to gear into the rack of the frame y, y, y, y.
A similar arrangement for producing the reverse traverse of the frame
3 3 3
y, y, y, y, is placed at the opposite side of the machine, and the alternate
traverse distributes the yarn or thread. D represents the carriage, with which
the distributor Z, see Figure 26, is connected, and by which the two threads
are passed the length of the row of needles at every traverse of the carriage
:

page_text: 8 2 9 9
y, y, y, y. The elevation of the jacks y (the operation of which is already
$
B
explained) depends on the half rotation of the part y, y, on which they rest,
as best seen at Figure 24. This part is carried in the frame y, y, y, y, and
when at the end of a traverse supports the jacks (when lowered between the
needle) on its lower surface or edge, as seen to the right of that Figure; but
as soon as the half rotation takes place by means of the segment 16 on the
wheel B, driving the carrier b and pinion * ou the extremities of the part
y, y, the whole of the jacks are elevated, as seen to the left of the Figure,
and the traverse of the carriage y, y, y, y, commencing, carries the distributor,
as already explained, and allows the jacks to fall in regular succession on to
The
the lower half of the part y, y, as seen to the left hand at Figure 24.
4 6
. 4
motion for imparting the half rotation to this part y, y, is similar at both sides
of the machine, and receives the rotation from the same shaft A, the seg
ments 6 and 6 on the opposite side being adjusted so as to come into action
at the accurate period when the return traverse is required.
My third improvement in framework knitting or hosiery, by which a cylinder
or tube is formed, is performed on a separate machine. Figure 18 represents
a side elevation, Figure 19 an end elevation of part, and Figure 20 a plan of
this machine. In these Figures S represents a crank shaft, from which the
various movements of the machine proceed. The crank on this shaft is
connected with the lever 'S, which, moving on its fulcrum §, conveys an
alternating motion to the tube T, which contains at its upper extremity a
These needles
number of needles, part of which are seen at t, t, t, t.
are elevated and depressed at every revolution of the crank, and guided
by the fixed ring 't, which is supported on a stationary internal tube fixed
to the framing at t. Corresponding with and above the hooked needles
marked t are the same number of bobbins of yarn or thread marked 't, and
between each needle a vibrating distributor v, which colapses and expands
as the needles advance or retire. But the needles t are formed of two parts,
as represented at full size at Figures 21 and 22, the hooked part 21 being
attached and partaking of the motion of the outside tube T, and the part 22,
which fits into a recess or slot in the part 21, being carried by an internal tube
which follows the movement of the tube T, so that the hook is opened as it
advances but closed by the part 22, as soon as it commences the retiring motion.
The retarding or delaying the movement of the interior tube carrying the
tonguo of the needle 22 is effected by a tumbler lever, best seen at Figure 19,

page_text: which arrests or holds on to a small projection of the interior tube until
relieved by the traverse of a a projection from the exterior tube T, seen at W.
In the interior of the stationary tube on which the two tubes which carry the
two separate parts of each needle is placed a perpendicular rod, which
supports the bobbins and the circular framing for receiving the ends of the
angular distributors V, the shape of which is represented at full size at
Figure 23. These distributors V move freely on their fulcrums at V, sup-
ported on the stationary tube, the internal rod, supported at its lower
extremity on a lever V, actuated by the lever S, so that when elevated the
distributors expand and form loops over the respective needles, and colapse
when the lever V is depressed. A rotary motion is also periodically imparted
to the interior rod by means of a catch X proceeding from the lever S,
which gathers a tooth in the ratchet wheel on the shaft X at each vibration;
and by means of the bevils ✗, revolves the interior shaft the exact distance
from one space between the needles to the next, so that the circular work of
the needles proceeds in a continuous spiral succession without requiring any
seam to perfect the cylinder.
Having described the nature of my Invention of certain Improvements in
the Machinery for Framework Knitting, commonly called Hosiery, and for
certain Improvements in such Framework Knitting or Hosiery, together with
the manner in which the same is to be performed and carried into effect, I do
not claim as my Invention any of the ordinary or well-known parts of such
machinery; but I do claim the combination and arrangement of such parts
as set forth and described, together with such separate improvements as I shall
enumerate under the following heads,-
First, the new and peculiar construction of the hooked needle, together with
the separate point for relieving it from the loop.
Second, the formation of the loop independent of the needle, as explained
and shewn at Figures 3 and 8.
Third, the narrowing of hosiery by the action of the machine, as shewn at
Figures 1, 2, and 3.
Fourth, the reversing or turning the needlo for the purpose of relieving it of
the loop.
Fifth, the formation of a continuous tube or cylinder of hosiery without
seam, as explained at Figure 18.
of
Sixth, the improved fabric or hosiery formed by distributing separate ends
yarn or thread to cach two needles.

page_text: Seventh, the formation of a plush or piled fabric by the distribution of two
ends of thread or yarn at the same time.
All which improvements, as applied to machinery for framework knitting
commonly called hosiery, and to such framework knitting or hosiery being new
and never before practised, to my knowledge and belief, in that part of Her
Majesty's Dominion called England, I deliver this as my true and faithful
Specification of the same.
In witness whereof, I, the said James Johnson, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Third day of September, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and forty-one.
This is the Specification or other Writing marked with the letter A, pro-
duced and shewn to David Bartie, this Seventh day of September, 1841, at
the time of his swearing his Affidavit.
J. W. FARRER.
David Bartie, of Number Forty-two, Lothbury, in the City of London,
Gentleman, maketh oath and saith, that he knows and is well acquainted with
James Campbell, Esquire, Lord Provost of the City of Glasgow, North Britain,
and also knows and is well acquainted with the character and manner of hand-
writing of the said James Campbell, and that the name or signature & other
words "Ja" Campbell, Ld Provost and Chief Magistrate of Glasgow," set and
subscribed to the acknowledgment by James Johnson of a Specification for
an Invention or other Writing, and now exhibited to this Deponent, & marked
with the letter A, is of the proper handwriting of the said James Campbell;
and this Deponent further saith, that the said James Campbell, as such Lord

page_text: Provost and Chief Magistrate, is entitled to administer oaths and declarations,
& to take acknowledgments.