IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FEATHER FABRIC ADAPTED FOR USE IN THE PRODUCTION OF ARTICLES OF DRESS, AND FOR OTHER PURPOSES."
Year: 1878

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Mary Brewster, of Logie Green, in the City of Edinburgh,
and County of Mid Lothian, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE
MANUFACTURE OF FEATHER FABRIC ADAPTED FOR USE IN THE PRODUCTION OF
ARTICLES OF DRESS, AND FOR OTHER PURPOSES."
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Mary Brewster at the Office
of the Commissioners of Patents on the 13th May 1878.
MARY BREWSTER, of Logie Green, in the City of Edinburgh, and County of Mid
Lothian. "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FEATHER FABRIC ADAPTED FOR
USE IN THE PRODUCTION OF ARTICLES OF DRESS AND FOR OTHER PURPOSES."
The object of the Invention is to combine and secure loose feathers so as thereby
to form a fabric that may be applied in various ways for the manufacture or orna-
mentation of articles of dress, or for other uses.
For this purpose where the feathers are of unequal lengths a portion of the root
or quill ends of the longer ones may be cut off to ensure uniformity. The feathers
are then arranged and attached in the desired relation of them to each other, to
narrow strips or bands (single) tags, tongues, or flaps of tape, cloth, or other suitable
flexible material, to be applied as after mentioned in the formation of a general
surface.
The feathers may be secured to these strips or tags by different methods,
thus:-
The surface of the strips or tags (or a portion of the breadth or depth thereof)
may in the first instance be coated with gum, glue, paste, cement, or other adhesive
matter, and the feathers then placed thereon in single regular rows by their quill or
root ends, and thus secured thereto; or,
Portions of the feathers themselves, that is, the root ends thereof, may first be
dipped into the adhesive matter, and then placed on the strips or tags, and so
secured thereto in the order desired; or,
The feathers may be attached and secured thereto (by the root ends) by means of
cowing

page_text: The strips or tags when so formed and furnished are then themselves sewed and
secured to what may be called the foundation or groundwork of the fabric, and
arranged in such a manner that the first or lowest strip or tag shall be overlapped
by the second, and the second by the third, and so on, so as to produce a smooth,
unbroken, outer surface of feathers, with the root or quill ends concealed as in the
living bird.
The roots of the uppermost layer of feathers may be covered by feathers placed
transversewise, or by means of a fringe, braiding, or binding, or in some other
similar way, as may be considered most suitable in each particular case.
The strips or tags are affixed to the main fabric by sewing, and that by the upper
edge or margin only, and this is done in such a way that the strips or tags shall
serve the purpose of "hinges" between the feathers, and the fabric or groundwork,
and have that appearance and effect. This arrangement secures the pliability of the
whole fabric, and, as a natural consequence, its beauty and usefulness.
In place of the "single" strips above referred to, "double" strips or flaps may
be made use of, in which case the feathers will be inserted and secured between the
folds.
And, instead of attaching the strips or tags by means of sewing they may form
part of the main fabric itself by being woven therewith, or they may consist of
"folds" of the fabric.
But in every case the "overlapping" of the folds and strips, and the concealment
of the root ends of the feathers must be provided for, the "hinging" of the strips
and feathers secured, and the "flexibility" of the whole fabric maintained.
In this manner may separate feathers be collected, arranged, combined, and
secured so as to produce a feather fabric adapted for use in the production or orna-
ment of articles of dress or upholstery of any desired design or pattern, and for a
variety of other purposes.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said Mary Brewster in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 11th
November 1878.
Lothian.
MARY BREWSTER, of Logic Green, in the City of Edinburgh, and County of Mid
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FEATHER FABRIC ADAPTED
FOR USE IN THE PRODUCTION OF ARTICLES OF DRESS, AND FOR OTHER PURPOSES.",
The object of the Invention is to combine and secure loose feathers so as thereby
to form a fabric that may be applied in various ways for the manufacture or orna-
mentation of articles of dress, or for other uses.
For this purpose, where the feathers are of unequal longths a portion of the root
or quill ends of the longer ones may be cut off to ensure uniformity. The feathers
are then arranged and attached in the desired relation of them to each other to
narrow strips or bands (single), tags, tongues, or flaps of tape, cloth, or other suitable
flexible material, to be applied as after mentioned in the formation of a general
surface.
The feathers may be secured to these strips or tags by different methods,
thus:-
The surface of the strips or tags (or a portion of the breadth or depth thereof)
may in the first instance be coated with gum, glue, paste, cement, or other adhesive
matter, and the feathers then placed thereon in single regular rows by their quill
or root ends, and thus secured thereto; or,
Portions of the feathers themselves, that is, the root ends thereof, may first be
dipped into the adhesive matters, and then placed on the strips or tags, and so
secured thereto in the order desired; or,
The feathers may be attached and secured thereto (by the root ends) by means of
sewing.
The strips or tags when so formed or furnished are then themselves sewed and
secured to what may be called the foundation or groundwork of the fabric, and
arranged in such a manner that the first or lowest strip or tag shall be overlapped
by the second, and the second by the third, and so on, so as to produce a smooth,
unbroken outer surface of feathers, with the roots or quill ends concealed as in the
living bird.
The roots of the uppermost layer of feathers may be covered by feathers placed
transversewise, or by means of a fringe, braiding, or binding, or in some other similar
way, as may be considered most suitable in each particular caso.
The strips or tags are affixed to the main fabric by sewing, and that by the upper
edge or margin only, and this is done in such a way that the strips or tags shall
serve the purpose of "hinges" between the feathers and the fabric or groundwork,
and have that appearance and effect. This arrangement secures the pliability of the
whole fabric, and as a natural consequence its beauty and usefulness.
In place of the "single" strips above referred to "double" strips or flaps may be
made use of, in which case the feathers will be inserted and secured between the
folds.
And instead of attaching the strips or tags by means of sewing they may form
part of the main fabric itself by being woven therewith, or they may consist of
"folds" of the fabric.
But in every case the "overlapping" of the folds and strips, and the concealment
of the root ends of the feathers must be provided for the "hinging" of the strips
and feathers secured, and the "flexibility" of the whole fabric maintained.
In this manner may separate feathers be collected, arranged, combined, and
secured so as to produce a feather fabric adapted for use in the production or orna-
mentation of articles of dress or upholstery of any desired design or pattern, and
for a variety of other purposes.
Having thus described my Invention, and means which I adopt in carrying the
same into effect, I would have it understood that variations may be made in the

page_text: method of carrying my Invention into effect, but what I claim is the manufacture
of feather fabric adapted for use in the production of articles of dress, or for other
uses, by the feathers or portions of feathers employed being applied to strips or
tags of fabric, and such strips or tags being applied, or as it were hinged to the
article or groundwork desired, substantially as described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Mary Brewster, have hereunto set my hand
and seal, this Eighth day of November, in the year of our Lord One thousand
eight hundred and seventy-eight.
MARY BREWSTER. (L.S.)