An Improved Method and Apparatus for Making Dress Patterns.
Year: 1894

page_text: Date of Application, 7th May, 1894-Accepted, 4th May, 1895
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
An Improved Method and Apparatus for Making Dress Patterns.
I, MARTIN POVERAJ, of Goerz in the Empire of Austria, Merchant, do
hereby declare the nature of my said invention and in what manner the same is to
be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:—
The object of my invention is. to make patterns, from which perfectly-fitting
articles of dress can be made. This I effect by first taking the exact measure-
ments of the body by means of a suitable apparatus, adjusting a cutting-out model
according to such measurements and then drawing parts of the dress from such
model, the said cutting-out model comprising a series of patterns or sections
corresponding to the different pieces of cloth in which the garment is to be made.
I will now describe my invention with reference to the accompanying drawings,
in which,
Fig. is a front view of the apparatus for measuring the various parts of the
body,
Fig. 2 is a back view of same,
Fig. 3 is a front view of an adjustable pattern or section of the cutting-out
model,
Fig. 4 a transverse section of the same showing the adjusting device
Fig. 5 is a card or plate for noting the measurements.
The apparatus for taking the measurements of the body consists of a net-like
arrangement or structure of straps or bands r made of inductile or non-extensible
material (for instance, leather, measuring-tape, thin sheet-metal, &c.) which readily
adapts itself to the form of the body and whose separate parts are arranged
according to the vertical, slanting and horizontal lines along which the measure-
ments are to be taken; each strap of this measuring apparatus is connected to all
the adjacent straps, in order to make a frame which is as rigid as possible and
which, at the same time, readily takes the form of the body.
The straps r, which pass over or slide on each other, are provided with scales
(graduated for instance in centimetres) and buckles, clamps, slides, or clasps S.
By means of these buckles S the straps r can be fixed according to the form or
position of the body in such a manner, that the measurements can be read off the
scales on the straps; the measurement may then either be entered on the ticket
or noted directly on the cutting-out model.
For each measuring apparatus several cutting out models or sections are
necessary; for instance, two measuring apparatus (one for coat or vest the other
for trousers) suffice, whereas at least four to six cutting out models or sections are
required.
The sections of the cutting-out model (Figure 3) which are made in the usual
form of dress patterns but preferably in the smallest size, consist of two sheet
metal plates t, t placed over each other (Figure 4) and a centre piece z.
This
piece z is provided at suitable points with recesses or holes, in which parts m can be
moved in a longitudinal direction without being capable of performing a lateral
movement, which can be secured for instance by pins or pegs.
The slides m, which are provided with the same scales as the straps r, are locked
in special positions by set screws v. The arrangement and length of the slides m should

page_text: be such that, when the latter are drawn out to the fullest extent, viz. as far as the
shoulder or stop m² will permit, their outer ends will represent the principal points
of the contour of the largest patterns likely to be required. The outer ends of the
slides m are provided where necessary with auxiliary slides a, b, c, and on these
outer ends the contour pieces or edges are mounted, the said edges or contour pieces
being afterwards completed or supplemented by means of a flexible lath, curves or
the like so as to form the complete figure. The pattern or section of the cutting-
out model shown, as an example, in Figure 3 is for the right or left breast part or
piece of the garment illustrated in Figure 1, the remaining parts or sections of the
cutting-out model being constructed in a like manner. Each part or section of
the cutting-out model, corresponding to one or more of the pieces of cloth to be
used in making the garment required, is provided with a mark or number (for
instance Roman characters, as shown in Figure 3); the adjustable slides m, too,
are marked, for instance, with capital letters for the main slides, and small letters
for the auxiliary slides, as shown in the drawings, but the marks used for the
slides should be readily distinguishable from those used to designate the several
parts or sections of the cutting-out model.
The elements belonging to the various parts or sections of the measuring
apparatus are marked similarly to the corresponding parts or sections of the
cutting-out model; and the several straps of the measuring apparatus are so
arranged that when the buckles are coincident with the divisions of the scales
furthest from the extremities of the straps, the measurements correspond to those
of the smallest size of the cutting-out model, the graduations on the straps being
the same as those on the corresponding slides of the cutting-out model.
In order to find the corresponding datum points or connection between the scales
on the corresponding straps r and slides m I preferably proceed as follows, viz :-
In the first place, the measure of a person of normal stature is taken in the usual
manner by a reliable tailor, using however, the measuring apparatus provided with
scales as shown in Figures 1 and 2, and then sketching out by hand on paper, or
on the material to be made up, the measurements obtained, without employing
the cutting-out model at all. The cloth is now cut out as marked by the tailor and
stitched together for tying on. After trying on and removing any inaccuracies
of measurement etc., the sketch is corrected accordingly, when the cutting-out model
is laid on such corrected cut pattern and the corresponding measurements
transferred to the scales on the cutting-out model. This, therefore, forms the
basis for determining the datum points or zeros of the scales, which otherwise
remain the same.
When using the apparatus, the measurements are taken by exactly adjusting the
various parts of the measuring apparatus by means of the buckles and the respective
marks (letters or figures) are carefully noted; it is preferable to use a table or
plate (as shown in Figure 5) for noting the measurements. For instance, the
horizontal lines may be used for the Roman characters and the vertical ones for
the letters.
The measurements read from the measuring apparatus are entered at the
intersecting points of the corresponding columns, according to the respective marks
of the parts; from these measurements the slides on the parts or sections of the
cutting-out model are correspondingly adjusted.
From the principal points of the latter the contours of the patterns can be easily
drawn on paper or cloth.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed; I declare that what I
claim is :-
The improved method and apparatus for making dress patterns, consisting of a
net-like arrangement of adjustable straps or bands (r) made of inductile or non-
extensible material, each strap being provided with a scale and arranged according

page_text: to the various lines of the body in which measurements are to be taken, such
measurements being taken by the aid of such straps and then transferred to a
cutting-out model comprising one or more patterns or sections having adjustable
slides (m) whose outer ends determine the contour of the pattern to be made,
substantially as described and shown in the drawing.
Dated the Seventh day of May 1894.
D. YOUNG & Co.,
11 & 12, Southampton Buildings, London, W.C.,
Agents for the Applicant.