Improvements in Embroidering Machines.
Year: 1898

page_text: Date of Application, 10th Feb., 1898-Accepted, 15th Oct.,
1898
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Embroidering Machines.
I, JOSHUA ENTWISLE, of the Firm of E. K. Dutton & Co., of 5, John Dalton
Street, Manchester, in the County of Lancaster, Fellow of the Chartered Institute
of Patent Agents, do hereby declare the nature of this invention (a communica-
tion to me by The Kursheedt Manufacturing Company (Incorporated under the
Laws of the State of New York), of 356 to 360, West Broadway, New York City,
United States of America, Manufacturers), and in what manner the same is to
be performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement and accompanying drawings;
My invention relates to embroidering machines and in the first place has for
its object to produce a means for automatically controlling and regulating the
action of boring apparatus from a pattern mechanism.
Further my invention relates to mechanism whereby at predetermined times
in the operation of the machine festoon or button hole edge embroidery may be
executed.
My invention will be best understood by referring to the accompanying two
sheets of drawings, in which,
On Sheet 1.
Fig. 1 is a side elevation of the end of an embroidering machine embodying
my invention relating to means for automatically controlling and regulating the
action of boring apparatus from a pattern mechanism.
Fig. 2 is an end elevation of the parts shown in Fig. 1.
Figs. 3 and 4 are side elevations of modified forms of boring apparatus.
On Sheet 2,
Fig. 5 is a front elevation of one end of an embroidering machine with the
festoon mechanism and the jacquard mechanism for controlling the operations;
and Fig. 6 is an end elevation thereof.
In embroidering fabrics, it is frequently necessary during the operations to
bore or pierce fabrics, sometimes by actually cutting the threads of the fabric,
and at other times by simply forcing them aside. In the machine which I have
illustrated in Sheet 1 I have provided two forms of boring or piercing apparatus,
one indicated by the letter a being of a prismatic form and provided with
cutting edges whereby the cutting edges will operate to cut the threads of the
fabric. The other bore point is smooth or unprovided with cutting edges
and is intended merely to enter between threads of the fabric and to force them
apart. It will be understood however that there may be and generally are
several bore points a placed in a row, likewise several bore points 6 similarly
placed. With these bore points are combined actuating mechanism and pattern
imechanism for throwing one or the other into operation.
Referring particularly to Figs. 1 and 2, A is the frame of the embroidering
machine. B is a suitable pattern mechanism, such as a Jacquard mechanism.

page_text: C is the main shaft of the Jacquard mechanism which is belted to shaft D which
is the main driving shaft of the embroidering machine. This shaft as will be
understood, drives the needles and other essential parts of the stitch forming
mechanism.
With these functions I am not at present concerned.
The frame work of the machine carries suitable bearings I in which slide
rods H. The rods H carry shafts F which are rotatable, as will be explained,
and in the present instance carry the bore points. The rods H likewise carry
arcs U provided with notches and abutments 1.
An arm V is likewise secured to the shaft F. The arc U is stationary with
respect to the shaft F. Motion is communicated to the rods H by bell crank
levers MK carried on rock shafts E¹ E and joined by a link 9. The rock
shafts EE2 are carried by brackets G secured to the frame. Motion is com-
municated to the bell crank levers by means of a link N which is provided at
its extremity with an adjustable cam piece O. A bowl or pin of the bell
crank lever M enters the slot in the cam O, as will be explained.
The link N derives its motion from an arm L which is driven from the cam P
on the Jacquard mechanism shaft C.
It will be understood that the bore points receive a back and forth movement
by means of the mechanism just described, so that the fabric will be bored or
pierced at predetermined desired times.
The cam piece 0 on the link N is adjustable. By this means the initial
position of the bowl may be determined and thereby the positioning of the
bore points, so that in case the bore points are changed or become worn down
and thus do not occupy the proper initial or normal position, the cam may be
shifted so as to bring the bowl into such a spot as to".
points at the normal plane. In order, however that all the operations may be
position" the bore
automatic, I have devised means for bringing one or the other of the sets of bore
points into an operative position automatically by the action of the Jacquard,
or other pattern mechanism. It will be observed that in the position shown in
Fig. 2 the bore points are out of operation and the bore points a in position
for operation. In order to bring the bore points 6 into operation, it will be
necessary to swing the shafts F so as to bring the bore points b into a horizontal
position, or substantially so. This operation I effect by the following
mechanism. A bell crank lever R having a sleeve in which a rod i works is
connected by means of a link X with a bell crank lever Z pivoted on an arm
of the bracket G which link X is provided with a jaw to embrace a pin upon a
double pawl W pivotted to the end of the arm V of the upper gang of hore
points, the arm V of the lower gang being provided with a similar pivotted
double pawl W which is connected by a link d with the double pawl W of the
upper gang or set of bore points. The double pawls W are formed with teeth h
to engage
with the notches n formed in the arcs U. The rod i carries a crescent S
and is operated from the Jacquard or pattern mechanism by means of the
lifter a acting upon the same through the medium of the bell crank lever b
and the link or rod 62.
The bell crank lever Z is provided with a bowl or pin which enters a slot
in the link N so as to swing the upper end of the said link laterally in order that
the cam may position the bore points in their predetermined normal plane.
The operation of the parts just described is as follows. At the predetermined
time determined by the pattern, the lifter a¹ is actuated and serves to enter the
crescent S in the cam P and at the same time withdrawing the rod i from the
aperture in the fixed bracket T in which it slides.
When the crescent has been entered in the cam, the lever R is
thereby pulling down upon the link X.
swung,
As the link X descends, it performs the following functions, it causes the jaw
thereof to pull down upon the double pawl W thereby disengaging it from the
notch n with which it is engaged and swinging it over the arc carrying with it

page_text: the arm V and rocking the shaft F to bring the bore point or points 6 into say
a horizontal position, the limit of the swing of the bore point being determined
by the arm V coming against the fixed abutment in which position the pawl W
enters the lower slot n of the arc, the pawl W being then in a position similar
to that shown in Fig. 3. It will be understood that the pawl W of the lower
gang of bore points is similarly operated so as to swing that set of bore points
into an operative position.
The bell crank lever Z.likewise swings the upper end of the link N, thereby,
by means of the cam O moving the rod g if necessary and moving the bore point
carrying mechanism to bring the bore points into the desired normal position so
that the initial normal positioning of the bore points is determined by the shape
and position of the cam O. The bore points 6 having been brought to an opera-
tive normal position may thereupon be operated ad libitum. When it is desired
to change over again to the bore points the Jacquard again comes into action
and reverses the operations just described. The changing over from one set of
bore points to the other may be variously accomplished by various mechanisms.
For instance as shown in Fig. 3 instead of having the bore points on the same
shaft Fone set of bore points a for instance, may be carried by the reciprocating
mechanism and may be rigidly and fixedly mounted thereon, as shown, and the
other set of bore points 6 may be carried upon an arm F¹ secured on the rock
shaft F.
In this case a downward movement of the link X not shown would swing
the pawl W downward in the manner before described and swing the bore point
or gang of bore points b into place in advance of the bore points a, the positioning
of the bore points being effected by the cam 0 in a predetermined manner.
In Fig. 4 I have shown another arrangement wherein the bore points a and b
are carried upon sliding rods H¹ between which the bowl or pin of a bell crank
lever MK is received. This bell crank lever MK is carried by the arm V and
has an arm M having a pin or bowl entering the cam 0. The arms X and N
are connected by means of the usual bell crank lever Z° and a link 7 connecting
the bell crank lever Zo with the link N.
The operation of the device is as follows: In the position shown the bore
point actuating apparatus is effective to move the bore points a. When it is
desired to move the bore points b the pattern mechanism is actuated to thrust
the link X in the direction of the arrow thereby swinging the pawl W from the
lower notch n of the are U to the upper notch n of the said arc, thereby swinging
the arm V upward pulling down on the bell crank lever MK to engage its
pin with the abutments of the lower sliding rod or slide H¹ carrying the bore
points b, the said upward thrust on the link X operating at the same time to
displace the upper end of the link N to thereby position the bore point for
operation.
I will now describe my improvements relating to a mechanism whereby at
predetermined times in the operation of the machine festoon or button hole edge
embroidery may be executed which is shown on Sheet 2 of the drawings.
In the drawing A is the frame of the embroidering machine which carries
the mechanism, B is the Jacquard C is the Jacquard mechanism driving shaft
from which motion is taken by means of the chain or belt C¹ and transmitted
to the main driving shaft D of the embroidering machine. E is the festoon
apparatus shaft, which drives the festoon apparatus at predetermined times, as
will be explained. The shafts C and D may be geared together in any suitable
manner. The shaft C carries fast and loose pulleys F with which belts G
engage, which belts are driven at different rates of speed in order that by shifting
the said belts at predetermined times determined by the Jacquard various rates
of speed may be imparted to the shaft C as will be explained. PP are rock
shafts of the embroidering machine which may serve to reciprocate the needle
bars (not shown) or to actuate other parts of the said embroidering machine.
They are provided with elbow levers H¹ which are connected by a link S

page_text: -
provided with a bowl $1 extended into the path of a cam T on the festoon appa-
ratus shaft E. The link S is likewise provided with a stud S3 on which the
roller slides, which roller is at predetermined times brought into position to be
engaged by the cam R of the main shaft D of the embroidering machine.
at each
The main shaft D of the embroidering machine is likewise provided with a
gear L which is loose thereon, and provided with a collar L' and a spur g to enter
a slot in a clutch member U fast on the shaft D. The gear L meshes with a
gear M on the festoon shaft E the gears L and M being so proportioned that
when the spur g engages the clutch member U, the gear L is thereby driven and
drives the shaft E at half the rate of speed at which the shaft 1 is rotating. The
festoon apparatus is shown in the present instance as a series of loop-forming
hooks e mounted upon universal bars H which are joined by side bars
end of the machine (only one of which is shown) which side bars I may be pro-
vided with a bowl e extending into operative relation with a cam K on the
festoon shaft. The mechanism is provided with any usual thread-breaking or
tension apparatus, shown in the present instance as the brake or tension cylinder N
around which the needle thread is wound carried upon a shaft provided with a
brake wheel O against which a brake O¹ bears, the said brake being operated
by an operating rod provided with a spring or springs with which may be
combined an ordinary hand tension operating apparatus h. It will be under-
stood that when the rod is pushed downward, the tension will be increased
and when it is allowed to rise, the tension will be diminished.
Having described the various working parts of the mechanism I will now
proceed to describe a connection by which they may be governed from the
Jacquard B. It will be observed that the cam shaft C is provided with a cam W
into which a crescent or bowl n may be entered.
This crescent or bowl n is carried by a sliding rod j carried in a sleeve of a
lever X. The tail of the rod j is adapted to enter an aperture in a bracket o in
order to position the crescent for entry into the cam, the crescent being brought
back to its initial position at the proper time, as will be readily understood.
i is a lifter or other element of the Jacquard and controlled by the Jacquard
mechanism. This lifter i acts upon a lever m pivotted in a bracket and provided
with a connector m³ which engages with a part k fixed on the rod ; and moves
the rod thereby effecting the engagement and disengagement of the crescent n
with the cam W. The lever X is connected by a link s with a lever a carried
upon a shaft Z. It will be understood that the Jacquard apparatus enters the
crescent into the cam W and thereby rocks the lever X thus rocking the
shaft Z. The shaft Z is likewise provided with a lever b which is connected
with a belt shipper or shifter V by which means the belts may be shifted to
bring one or the other upon a fast pulley or a loose pulley ad libitum, so that
different rates of speed may be imparted to the shaft C at predetermined times.
The rock shaft Z is likewise provided with an arm d which contacts with a
cross-head on the rod r whereby the tension is regulated from the Jacquard.
The rock shaft Z is likewise provided with an arm c which engages the sleeve L¹
and serves to shift the sleeve with the attached gear wheel L and spur g later-
ally on the shaft D to engage the said spur with the clutch U or to disengage
it therefrom, and to enter the spur into the stop bracket e which is provided to
stop and hold the spur at a predetermined point when it is disengaged, so that
the gear L will be brought to rest at a predetermined point in order that the
shaft E may likewise be brought to rest at a predetermined point. The arm c
or other arm of the rock shaft Z may be provided with a connection u which is
guided by the bracket E¹ and is provided with a sector u' which sector extends
into a groove in the roller or bowl v so that the bowl may be shifted laterally
by the connection u.
Having described the elements of the mechanism of this part of my invention
in detail I will now proceed to describe the detailed operation, it being under-

page_text: stood that the embroidering machine may be provided with the usual shuttle
apparatus which has been omitted for the purposes of clearer illustration. It
will be premised at the outset that when the mechanism is producing festoon
work, the operations take place at a slower rate of speed than when the apparatus
is performing the ordinary embroidering operations, and that the tension on the
needle threads is increased.
Consequently in order to properly perform the festoon operations the Jacquard
and embroidery mechanism must be slowed down, the festoon apparatus be thrown
into operation and the tension increased, which operations are reversed when
it is desired to shift the machine over from the festooning operation to the
ordinary embroidering operation. When the machine is in the position shown
in the drawings, it is doing festoon work, the spur g being engaged with the
clutch U whereby the festoon shaft E is driven from the main shaft D whereby
by means of the cams K and T the festoon apparatus and the needle bar aro
driven. At this point it is important to remember that by reason of the fact
that the Jacquard being driven at the appropriate slow rate of speed, the speed
of the embroidering machine will be correspondingly slow, the shaft E making
as before explained, but one rotation to two rotations of the shaft D. In view
of the fact however that the cam T is provided with two lifting portions the
needle bar mechanism will be operated twice for every single operation of the
festoon apparatus, the cam K being a single lift cam. At this point it is im-
portant to note that the bowl or roller is not in position to be acted upon by
the cam R which is on the shaft D. It will be noted that the arm d is pressing
down strongly upon the cross head of the rod r so as to put a very strong
tension upon the needle threads, which, as before explained encircle the tension
or brake roller N on their way to the needles. From the foregoing it will be
readily understood that the festoon apparatus and the needle bars are operated
at a proper rate of speed from the festoon shaft E in harmony with each other.
When now it is desired to throw the festoon apparatus out of operation to resume
the normal embroidering functions, the lifter i is operated to enter the crescent n
into the cam W whereupon the cam will rock the lever X to pull down on the
rod or links and to thereby rock the rock shaft Z so as to ship the belts G to
increase the speed of the shaft C to shift the gear L and its connected sleeve
and spur to the left, thereby disconnecting the shaft E which is brought to rest
at a predetermined point by the spur g being entered into the slot in the bracket
or stop e; to release the pressure of the arm d on the rod r to thereby release
the tension and likewise through the medium of the connection to shift the
bowl or roller to the left to bring it into position to be actuated by the con-
stantly rotating fast cam R so that the normal movement of the needle bar will
be resumed. It is to be observed that the stopping of the shaft E at a pre-
determined position is for the purpose of bringing its cams into such position
where they will not interfere with the normal operation of the rod S by the
cam R. When the parts have been restored to their normal embroidering posi-
tions as just explained the Jacquard operates to remove the crescent n from the
cam W and to enter its tail rod or tail piece j into the aperture in the bracket o
so that the crescent will be positioned for re-entry into the cam. The Jacquard
controls all these shifting operations so that the recurrence of the ordinary
embroidering operations and the festooning operations may be regulated in a
predetermined manner from the Jacquard which as explained effects the shifting
of the parts, regulates the tension and determines the speed of operation so as
to ensure harmonious action.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is:-
1) In an embroidering machine, the combination of a plurality of cate
af

page_text: borers and their actuating mechanism and pattern mechanism for bringing one
or the other of the sets of borers into operation substantially as described and
illustrated in Sheet 1 of the drawings.
2) In an embroidering machine, the combination of a plurality of sets of borers
and their operating means and pattern mechanism for bringing one or the other
of the sets of borers into operation and for positioning the same for said operation,
substantially as described and illustrated.
3) In an embroidering machine, the combination of a plurality of sets of borers
and their actuating mechanism and automatic means for bringing one or the
other of the sets of borers into operation substantially as described and shown.
4) In an embroidering machine, the combination of a plurality of sets of borers
and automatic means for bringing the sets of borers into operation successively
substantially as described and shown.
5) In an embroidering machine, the combination of a plurality of sets of borers
and pattern mechanism for bringing the sets of borers into operation successively
substantially as described and illustrated.
6) In an embroidering machine, the combination of a plurality of sets of borers,
operating mechanism for moving both sets of borers simultaneously and means
for bringing one or the other of the sets of borers into an operative position sub-
stantially as described and illustrated.
7) In an embroidering machine, the combination of a plurality of sets of borers
adapted to operate upon the fabric at different times and automatic means for
positioning one set of borers for operation substantially as described and
illustrated.
8) In an embroidering machine, the combination of a set of cutting borers a
and a set of borers adapted to spread the threads of the fabric apart and
automatic means for positioning one or the other set of borers for operation
substantially as described and illustrated in Sheet 1 of the drawings.
9) In an embroidering machine, the combination of a plurality of indepen-
dently operating sets of borers and automatic means for throwing one or the other
set of borers into operation substantially as described and shown.
10) In an embroidering machine, the combination of a plurality of borers and
means for swinging one set of borers into position at predetermined times and
for positioning the mechanism so that the said set of borers will alone be opera-
tive to bore or pierce the fabric substantially as described and illustrated.
11) In an embroidering machine, the combination of a shaft F a plurality of
sets of borers carried by the said shaft F and adapted to operate upon the fabric
independently, operating means for operating the said borers and automatic means
for swinging the said shaft to bring one or the other of the sets of borers into
position for operation substantially as described and illustrated.
12) In an embroidering machine, the combination of a plurality of sets of
borers and operating mechanism for same pattern controlled mechanism for
causing one or the other set of borers to become operative and a positioning or
compensating mechanism for bringing the operative row of borers to a normal
position substantially as described and illustrated.
13) In an embroidering machine, the combination of a plurality of sets of
borers and operating mechanism for same an arm V, double pawl W and connec-
tion controlled by the pattern mechanism for causing one or the other set of
borers to become operative substantially as described and illustrated.
14) In an embroidering machine, the combination of a plurality of sets of
borers, operating mechanism for same, a cam piece O on the operating mechanism,
and mechanism for swinging the cam piece, thereby compensating for any
difference in the positions of the rows of borers substantially as described and
shown.
15) The general arrangement construction and combination of parts comprising
the improved means for automatically controlling and regulating the action of

page_text: boring apparatus from pattern mechanism of embroidering machines substan-
tially as described and illustrated in Sheet 1 of the drawings.
16) In an embroidering mechanism, the combination of embroidering means
including needles and their co-operating means, of a festoon apparatus and pat-
tern controlled mechanism for operating the embroidering means and the festoon
apparatus in harmony with each other substantially as described and illustrated
in Sheet 2 of the drawings.
17) In an embroidering mechanism, the combination of embroidering needles
and means for co-operating therewith to form a stitch, of a festoon apparatus
and pattern controlled mechanism for bringing the festoon apparatus into operative
relation with the work at predetermined times substantially as described and
illustrated.
18) In an embroidering mechanism, the combination of means for driving the
needles at a normal rate of speed, means for driving the needles at a speed differ-
ent from the normal combined with a festoon apparatus and means for driving
the same in harmony with the needles, and pattern mechanism for controlling
the interaction of the parts, whereby the needle operations will be changed to
harmonize with the operation of the festoon apparatus substantially as described
and shown.
19) In an embroidering mechanism, the combination of embroidering needles
and a festoon apparatus, pattern operated means for bringing the festoon
apparatus into harmonious operation with the embroidering needles and means
for bringing the festoon apparatus to rest at a predestined point substantially as
described and illustrated.
20) The combination of embroidering needles, tension apparatus for the threads
of the embroidering machine and a festoon apparatus, all combined with pattern
controlled mechanism for bringing the festoon apparatus into and out of opera-
tion substantially as described and illustrated.
21) The combination of an embroidering mechanism, of embroidering needles,
a festoon apparatus and automatic means for varying the operation of the em-
broidering needles to harmonize with the operations of the festoon apparatus
as and for the purposes set forth and indicated.
22) In an embroidering mechanism, the combination of a shaft for giving the
embroidering needles a normal movement, a shaft for giving the embroidering
needles an abnormal movement and automatically operated means for connecting
the embroidering needles with either shaft for operating the same by the said
shaft substantially as described and shown.
23) In an embroidering mechanism, the combination of embroidering needles
and automatic means for driving the same, of pattern mechanism, means for
driving the embroidering machine at different rates of speed and means controlled
by the pattern mechanism for effecting the driving of the machine at different rates
of speed substantially as described and illustrated in Figs. 5 and 6.
24) In an embroidering mechanism, the combination of embroidering needles
and their actuating mechanism a festoon apparatus and its actuating mechanism
and pattern controlled means for driving the embroidering needle actuating
mechanism independently of the festoon apparatus substantially as described
and shown.
25) In an embroidering mechanism, the combination of embroidering needles
and their actuating mechanism, a festoon apparatus and its actuating mechanism,
and a tension device and its regulating mechanism, and pattern controlled means
for increasing the tension when the festoon apparatus is in action and to allow
it to assume its normal tension as determined by the adjusting mechanism when
the festoon apparatus ceases to operate substantially as described and illustrated.
26) In an embroidering mechanism, the shaft Z combined with arms and con-
nections for decreasing the speed of the machine for increasing the tension and
initiating the action of a festoon apparatus, and vice versa, as and for the pur-
poses set forth and illustrated in Sheet 2 of the drawings.

page_text: 27) The general arrangement construction and combination of parts compris-
ing the improved mechanism in an embroider-machine for executing festoon or
button hole edge embroidery at predetermined times in the operation of the
machine substantially as described and illustrated in Sheet 2 of the drawings.
Dated this 9th day of February 1898.
For the Anplicant
For the d
Applicant,
E. K. DUTTON & Co.,
Chartered Patent Agents, 5, John Dalton Street, Manchester.