Improvements in and in the Means for Weaving Figured Fabrics.
Year: 1894

page_text: Date of Application, 16th Nov., 1894
Complete Specification Left, 16th Sept., 1895-4ccepted, 16th Nov., 1895
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in and in the Means for Weaving Figured Fabrics.
I, DUGALD SCOTT of 12 York Street, Manchester, in the County of Lancashire,
Merchant and Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be
as follows:-
Heretofore in the manufacture of such ornainental woven fabrics as are made
with spots or other figures formed by lappet weaving it is usual to float the lappet
thread from one spot or figure to the next on the same side of the cloth as the
spot or figure.
Where this floated part of the lappet thread has subsequently to be scared
or clipped off a loose end is thus left at the commencement and end of each
spot or figure on the face thereof.
These loose ends destroy the shape of spots or figures and are detrimental to the
appearance of the fabric.
My present invention consists of a method of and apparatus for weaving such
lappet spots or other detached figures on the face of the fabric with a loop
floated on the back at the beginning and at the end of each spot or figure in
same line so that when that part of the lappet warp which floats on the face of
the cloth from one spot or figure to the other is cut away these loops can be
brushed or otherwise pulled out from the back leaving the loose ends projecting
at the back of the cloth and so shewing a spot or figure with no loose or tail
ends on the face thereof.
To attain this result according to my present invention I cause the lappet end
during the formation of the loops above described to rise between the same warp
ends. To effect this I proceed in various ways as for instance in cases such as
when the warp is so dense that a slight inaccuracy in the mechanism might cause
the needles to rise between the wrong ends advantageously by the introduction
of a warp opening device in front of the reed between the said warp ends which
ensures the lappet needles rising between the desired warp ends.
This warp opening device may consist of a series of tongues or appliances (of
tapered or suitable form for opening the warp ends) of suitable material which
are caused to be simultaneously raised (at the desired points) through the warp
at the required time with regard to the motion of the lappet needles. This is
or may be effected by cords or other suitable attachments connecting the said
tongues or warp opening appliances to a suitable lifting device for example to
an overhead cross bar to which a suitable rising and falling motion is given.
In some cases I attain the same result by a peculiar construction of the reed
itself and move the reed up or down-according as the figure is woven on the back
or face of the fabric-or the reed may be fixed-as follows:
'
Having arranged beforehand the intervals between the above mentioned openings
I construct a reed which has at these intervals a dent wire so formed that while its
upper length which engages the fell of the cloth at the beat up is of the usual shape
its lower part which will act upon the warp ends of the bottom shed has a bulge or
projection extending forwardly of the front plane of the reed and the face of this
bulge or projection is of sufficient breadth to effect the desired opening of the warp
when the reed is moved up or down as the case may be the said bulge or projection
being advantageously tapered backwards to the original form of the dent or may
be cut away abruptly.
The shape of this projection or bulge while tapering from the top downwards

page_text: (and the manner of forming or mounting same on the reed) may be varied as
desired.
Or instead of moving the reed vertically I may obtain the same result by
depressing or, raising the warp ends more than usual (by any suitable means) and
thus open the warp ends by means of the above described dent wires-or if desired
I may raise or lower both the reed and the warp ends.
The parts may be mounted and arranged to act vice versa i.e. to divide the top
shed instead of the bottom shed if desired.
Or proceed as follows:-
I may use an ordinary loom provided with a Jacquard dobbie or other index
mechanism together with the ordinary lappet bar and wheel; these latter are
operated in the ordinary manner say from below but I use the dobbie or jacquard
and effect that at certain picks or traverses of the shuttle all warp shall be down
the lappet ends alone being raised and the shuttle therefore on these particular
picks passes under them (ie. the lappet ends) alone. This raising of the lappet
needles is extra to the figuring and according to my present invention is arranged
to take place just before the figure is begun and also immediately after it is
completed for instance in the case of weaving spots with the lappet needles
operating from below the whole operation would be as follows:---
First say the plain cloth is being woven the needles being down with the lappet
ends attached to the previous figure then one pick before in the ordinary case the
needles would have begun figuring I raise the needles and at the same time by
means of the before mentioned index mechanism I depress all the warp next a pick
is made then the needles are lowered and the weft is "beat up" as usual. The
result of this operation has been to carry the lappet ends through the cloth and
back again leaving them looped on the pick of weft on the back which pick as
explained engages only with these said lappet ends and is not otherwise interwoven
into the cloth. The lappet needles now complete the figure and are then again
given one extra lift when the shed is operated as before and the lappet ends looped
to the back in a similar manner as at the beginning of the spot or figure.
The needles now remain down until the operation is repeated at the beginning of
the next figure. We have now the lappet ends before passing from one figure to
the next looped to the back of the cloth by this extra pick of loose weft and
it will be easily seen that when these connecting pieces are clipped away or cut
on the front by drawing these loose picks across the back of the cloth or
otherwise brushing them away or removing same in a suitable manner the cut
lappet ends will be readily pulled through to the back thus giving the figure a
much more perfect appearance.
In figuring on heavy cloths which are closely beat up and where the ordinary
weft would not be strong enough to draw the cut ends through I may use two
shuttles one with a weft to form the aforesaid loose pick strong enough to effect
my purpose and the other with ordinary weft.
Dated this 16th day of November 1801
TONGUE & BIRKBECK,
34, Southampton Buildings, Chancery Lane, London, W.C.,
Agents for the Applicant.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in and in the Means for Weaving Figured Fabrics.
I, DUGALD SCOTT of 12 York Street, Manchester, in the County of Lancashire,
Merchant and Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and
in what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement :-
Heretofore in the manufacture of such ornamental woven fabrics as are made

page_text: with spots or other figures formed by lappet weaving it is usual to float the lappet
thread from one spot or figure to the next on the same side of the cloth as the spot
or figure.
Where this floated part of the lappet thread has subsequently to be sheared or
clipped off a loose end is thus left at the commencement and end of each spot or
figure on the face thereof.
These loose ends destroy the shape of spots or figures and are detrimental to the
appearance of the fabric.
Now according to my present invention 1 weave such lappet spots or other
detached figures on the face of the fabric with a loop floated on the back at the
beginning and at the end of each spot or figure in same line so that when that part
of the lappet warp which floats on the face of the cloth from one spot or figure to
the other is cut away these loops can be brushed or otherwise pulled out from the
back leaving the loose ends projecting at the back of the cloth and so shewing a
spot or figure with no loose or tail ends on the face thereof.
To attain this result according to my present invention I cause the lappet end
during the formation of the loops above described to rise between the same
warp ends.
To effect this proceed in various ways.
For instance when the warp is so dense that a slight inaccuracy in the mechanism
might cause the needles to rise between the wrong ends I effect this advantageously
by the introduction of a warp opening device in front of the reed between the said
warp ends which ensures the lappet needles rising between the desired warp ends.
This warp opening device consists of a series of tongues or appliances (of
tapered or suitable form for opening the warp ends) of suitable material which are
caused to be simultaneously raised (at the desired points) through the warp at the
required time with regard to the motion of the lappet needles. This is or may be
effected by cords or other suitable attachments connecting the said tongues or
warp opening appliances to a suitable lifting device for example to an overhead
cross bar to which a suitable rising and falling motion is given.
This method and means of opening the warp ends are illustrated at Figs. 1 to 6
of the accompanying drawings in which :-
―
Fig. 1 is front elevation of the loom showing the arrangement of lingos or
openers and the mechanism for operating same.
the
Fig. 2 is a part view of Fig. 1 on an enlarged scale.
Fig. 3 is an end view of Fig. 2.
Fig. 4 is a front elevation of the "lappet. wheel" showing levers for operating
openers" and needle-bar also contact-strips.
Fig. is a view of Fig. 4 in perspective.
Fig. 6 is an edge view of Fig. 4.
A is a lappet wheel.
66
B B are tongues or warp-opening appliances also known as lingos."
CC are the cords by which the said lingos or openers B are all suspended from
the saine bar D.
E E are strips or connections by which the said bar D is attached to the bar F
the latter so arranged and mounted as to be capable of horizontal lateral movement.
G is the spring which normally keeps said bar F pressed in one direction.
His a rod attached (by a strap cord or equivalent i passing round a pulley [')
to the aforesaid bar F by which the latter is intermittently forced in the opposite
direction against the action of the spring G.
K is a cam or tappet on a constantly revolving shaft K' of the loom-which
cam K acting on a pivoted lever K2 thereby forces down or lowers the rod H when
the latter is moved into gear with said tappet K.
L is a spring for the purpose of keeping lever K in contact with cam K.
M is a lever pivoted at M' and connected at one end by rod M2 to the aforesaid
vertical rod H and at its upper end bears against the contact strips A' of the lappet
wheel A thus when the free end of rod M is forced outwards by the said contact

page_text: strips A¹ thereby the rod H is by means of the connecting rod M² (see Fig. 1)
moved to the left and consequently brought into gear with the cam K (see Fig. 2)
which latter depresses the rod H (against the action of the spring 1.) and thus raises
the lingos B the spring returning the parts when the tappet or cam K is out of
action.
Thus the openers B can be raised and lowered as desired according to the
arrangement of the contact-strips A' on the lappet wheel A and the tappet K..
N is a lever also operated by the contact strips A' on the lappet wheel A to
raise and lower the lappet needle bar in the usual manner (for instance by a lever
such as Q) and therefore need not be further described or illustrated here.
In some cases I attain the same result by a peculiar construction of the reed
itself and move the reed up or down-according as the figure is woven on the back
or face of the fabric (or the reed may be fixed) and I will now describe this
alternative method and means with reference to Figs. 7 and 8 of the accompanying
drawings; Fig. 7 being a front elevation and Fig. 8 an edge view of a reed
constructed according to my present invention.
Having arranged beforehand the intervals between the above-mentioned openings
1 construct a reed which has at these intervals (for instance at every 8th wire as
shown) a dent wire so formed that while its upper length O which engages the fell
of the cloth at the beat up is of the usual shape (i.e. similar to the other wires P)
its lower part which will act upon the warp ends of the bottom shed has a bulge or
projection O¹ extending forwardly of the front plane of the reed and the face of
this bulge or projection is of sufficient breadth to effect the desired opening of the
warp when the reed is moved up or down as the case may be the said bulge or
projection being advantageously tapered backwards to the original form of the dent
or may be cut away abruptly.
The shape of this projection or bulge O' while tapering from the top downwards
(and the manner of forming or mounting same on the reed) may be varied as
desired.
Or instead of moving the reed vertically I may obtain the same result by
depressing or raising the warp ends more than usual (by any suitable means) and
thus open the warp ends by means of the above described dent wires-or if desired
I may raise or lower both the reed and the warp ends.
The parts may be mounted and arranged to act vice versa i.e. to divide the top
shed instead of the bottom shed if desired.
Or I may proceed as follows
I may use an ordinary loom provided with a Jacquard dobbie or other index
mechanism together with the ordinary lappet bar and wheel; these latter are
operated in the ordinary manner say from below but I use the dobbie or jacquard
and effect that at certain picks or traverses of the shuttle all warp shall be down the
lappet ends alone being raised and the shuttle therefore on these particular picks
passes under them (i.e. the lappet ends) alone. This raising of the lappet needles
is extra to the figuring and according to this part of my present invention is
arranged to take place just before the figure is begun and also immediately after it
is completed for instance in the case of weaving spots with the lappet needles
operating from below the whole operation would be as follows:-
First say the plain cloth is being woven the needles being down with the lappet
ends attached to the previous figure then one pick before in the ordinary case the
needles would have began figuring I raise the needles and at the same time by
means of the before mentioned index mechanism I depress all the warp next a pick
is made then the needles are lowered and the weft is "beat up" as usual. The
result of this operation has been to carry the lappet ends through the cloth and
back again leaving them looped on the pick of weft on the back which pick as
explained engages only with these said lappet ends and is not otherwise interwoven
into the cloth. The lappet needles now complete the figure and are then again
given one extra lift when the shed is operated as before and the lappet ends looped
to the back in a similar manner as at the beginning of the spot or figure.

page_text: The needles now remain down until the operation is repeated at the beginning of
the next figure. I have now the lappet ends before passing from one figure to the
next leoped to the back of the cloth by this extra pick of loose weft and it will be
easily seen that when these connecting pieces are clipped away or cut up on the
front by drawing these loose picks across the back of the cloth or otherwise
brushing them away or removing same in a suitable manner the cut lappet ends will
be readily pulled through to the back thus giving the figure a much more perfect
appearance.
Figs. 9 to 12 are diagrammatic views of a
according to the last mentioned method.
woven figured fabric produced
Fig. 9 is a diagram showing the spots and lappet ends on the face of the fabric
before finishing.
Fig. 10 is a diagram of the back of the fabric-shewing the extra weft threads X
thereon-before finishing.
Fig. 11 is the face of the fabric after finishing.
Fig. 12 is the back of the fabric after finishing.
In figuring on heavy cloths which are closely beat up and where the ordinary
weft would not be strong enough to draw the cut ends through I may use two
shuttles one with a weft to form the aforesaid loose pick strong enough to effect my
purpose and the other with ordinary weft.
Figs. 13 to 16 are diagrammatic views of a woven figured fabric according to the
two first described methods viz. :-
Fig. 13 shows the spots and lappet ends on the face of the fabric before
finishing.
Fig. 14 shows the back of the fabric before finishing.
Fig. 15 the face of the fabric after finishing, and
Fig. 16 the back of the fabric after finishing.
From the foregoing my present invention will be fully understood and can be
readily carried into practice.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is
1. In the manufacture of woven figured fabrics-weaving lappet spots or other
detached figures with a leop of the lappet end floated on the back of the fabric at
the beginning and at the end of each said spot or figure in same line and the lappet
end floated on the front of the fabric clear of each said spot or figure and adapted
when cut to be pulled out from the back thus leaving each said spot or figure
without any loose or tail end on the face of the fabric.
2. In the manufacture of woven figured fabrics-weaving lappet spots or other
detached figures with a loop of the lappet end floated on the back of the fabric at
the beginning and at the end of each said spot or figure substantially in the manner
and for the purposes hereinbefore described.
3. In a lappet loom for weaving figured fabrics of the character above described―
warp opening devices in combination and acting in conjunction with the ordinary
lappet needles to ensure the needles rising between the desired warp ends
substantially in the manner and for the purposes herein before described.
4. In a lappet loom for weaving figured fabrics of the character above described-
the combination with the lappet needles of a set of warp opening devices such as B
adapted to be simultaneously raised or lowered through the warp ends and means
to intermittently impart vertical motion simultaneously to all the said devices B
substantially in the manner and for the purposes herein before described with
reference to Figs. 1 to 6 of the drawings hereunto annexed.
5. In a lappet loom for weaving figured fabrics of the character above described-
the combination with the lappet needles of a reed having certain of the wires thereof
such as O formed with a bulge or projection thereon such as O extending forwardly
of the front plane of the reed such bulge or projection O' acting as a warp opening

page_text: device substantially in the manner and for the purposes hereinbefore described with
reference to Figs. 7 and 8 of the drawings hereunto annexed.
6. In a reed for lappet weaving looms-the employment of a dent wire having a
bulge or projecting part therein or thereon substantially in the manner and for the
purposes hereinbefore described.
7. In a reed for lappet weaving looms-the employment of a dent wire having a
bulge or projecting part therein or thereon adapted to serve as a warp opening
device.
8. In the manufacture of woven figured fabrics-weaving lappet spots or other
detached figures with a loop of the lappet end floated on the back of the fabric at
the beginning and at the end of each said spot or figure substantially in the manner
and for the purposes herein before described with reference to Figs. 9 to 12 of the
drawings hereunto annexed.
3008
TONGUE & BIRKBECK,
Southampton Buildings, Chancery Lane, London, W.C.,
Agents for the Applicant.