Improved Means for Making Lappet Woven Fabrics on Looms of All Kinds.
Year: 1895

page_text: Date of Application, 21st June, 1895
Complete Specification Left, 20th Nov., 1895-Accepted, 29th Feb.. 1896
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improved Means for Making Lappet Woven Fabrics on Looms of
All Kinds.
I, FERDINAND GEIRINGER, of 89 Obere Donaustrasse of the City of Vienna Il,
in the Empire of Austria Weaving Manager, do hereby declare the nature of my
said invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to means and devices for producing lappet-woven fabrics
on any of the looms at present in use.
Various means are employed in weaving for making designs, for instance, by
using pattern-chains composed of perforated cards, endless bands provided with pins
or pegs, also chains consisting of cam-like members of different sizes and all of these
allow of their individual members, (representing the respective parts of the design),
being combined to form different designs, whereas this is not possible with patterns
which correspond to a special or individual design only, and which, therefore, do
not permit of being changed or differently combined.
According to this invention, a second warp is used in addition to the ground
warp forming the shed, the manner of passing such second warp into the shed
varying according to the nature of the fabric to be made. This second warp is
interwoven with the ground warp by the weft and the design appears on the
upper or face side only, hence same is always in view during the operation of the
machine.
The ground warp of this apparatus passes in the usual manner from the warp-
beam to the cloth-beam, the shed being thus formed between same. A second
upper warp for producing the lappet woven face passes over one or more guide
rollers which at the same time put such upper warp under tension periodically. On
leaving such rollers the upper warp passes between the healds or heddles, over the
reed and, finally, each thread runs through the eyes of the needles always forming
part of such machines. It is then crossed by the weft and thus the ground warp,
upper secondary warp and the weft together supply a fabric embroidered on one
side only.
The lappet weaving device consists essentially of one or more rails, on which are
mounted the needles provided with eyes for receiving the upper or embroidering
warp. These rails are so fixed onto, but in front of, the lay, that they may be
reciprocated both in vertical (upwards and downwards) and horizontal (to the
right and left or at right angles to the warp) directions, and this without any extra
or special frame being required. This vertical movement destined to pass the
second warp into the shed of the ground warp, is imparted by blocks suitably
arranged on and guided by the said rails and operated directly or indirectly by
levers pivoted to same; springs are provided for ensuring the return of the rails
from the upper position. An oscillating movement is imparted to the rails carrying
the needles by means of a lever suitably operated by a cain and connecting rod or
chain. When said lever reaches its outermost position, the upper embroidering
warp is put under tension and at the same time passed into the shed, because the
needles, through the eye of which said warp passes, then enter such shed.
The horizontal right and left reciprocation of the rails is effected by a cam keyed
onto the main driving shaft of the loom, the motions of which cam are transmitted
by suitable connecting rods or levers and a pawl to a chain-wheel, each rotation of
said cam causing the pawl to turn the chain (i.e. the pattern card) of said chain-
Pin27

page_text: wheel to the extent of one link. A roller pivoted on a further lever runs over
said chain, the motion thus imparted to same being transmitted by suitable
connecting arms and a wedge to a cross-rail connected to and above the afore-
mentioned needle-rails by vertical rods. The extent of this movement of the rails
to the left may be regulated by changing the peculiarly curved links of the chain
running over the chain-wheel. The return of the rails is effected by a suitable
spring.
It will be evident, that the last described mechanism for imparting a lateral
movement to the rails may be arranged in various ways, for instance, two cross-rails
may be provided instead of one, and a conical member mounted on one of the
vertical connecting rods, the oblique sides of such member being arranged so as to
impart a left and right movement simultaneously to said cross-rails. Springs
secure the due return of the rails in the reverse direction. A like effect may also
be brought about by using a member having oblique sides running parallel to each
other (e. in the form of a parallelogram) in place of the conical member.
It is also possible to arrange the needle-rails in such manner that a certain
number of same reciprocate horizontally only and the remainder in a vertical
plane.
It will also be evident that each needle rail may be provided with a separate
mechanism for imparting the necessary vertical, or lateral movements, in which
case it is possible to produce a great variety of embroidered goods.
This improved apparatus may be readily attached to the various kinds of looms,
for instance, the Jacquard loom, seeing that the shed aud the formation thereof
does not in any way interfere with the operation of the apparatus.
Dated this 21st day of June 1895.
W. P. THOMPSON & Co.,
31, High Holborn, London, W.C., Patent Agents for the Applicant.
Improved Means for Making Lappet Woven Fabrics on Looms of
All Kinds.
I, FERDINAND GEIRINGER of 89 Obere Donau Strasse, Vienna II, Weaving
Manager, do hereby declare the nature of my said invention and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement :-
This invention relates to improved means for making embroidered or lappet
woven fabrics on any of the looms at present in use and quite irrespective of the
nature or kind of fabric being woven. Up to the present such goods have been
made principally on hand-looms, the design being formed by means of pattern cards,
or chains composed of perforated cards, endless-bands provided with pins or pegs,
or the like; such operation is, however, complicated, while the number of designs
which can be made is very limited.
According to this invention, a peculiar pattern-chain is used, which is driven by
suitable gear from the loom and whose individual members are so formed that their
movements are transmitted to the needle-rails, and thus a horizontally reciprocating
motion is imparted to the latter.
The design is thus produced by the peculiar more or less. bulged shape of the
members of the endless chain, and hence by simply changing such members i.e. by
interposing differently shaped members, it is possible to make an unlimited number.
or variety of designs..
ادر
Referring to the accompanying drawings::—
Fig. 1 is a longitudinal section and
:

page_text: Fig. 2 a front view of a loom provided with the mechanism for making the
embroidered or lappet woven fabric.
Figs. 3 & 4 are details on a larger scale.
Figs. 5 & 6 are modified constructions of the device for imparting a horizontal
reciprocating motion to the needle frame.
The ground warp a runs in the usual manner from the warp beam to the cloth
beam, the shed a¹ being formed between same. The second warp b runs round a
guide roller 6 which is supported on a crank lever i pivoted at i¹ to the frame and
connected by rod or chain and strap h to the excentric i2 being thereby caused to
move back and forth as indicated by the arrow and so tighten the warp periodi-
cally. The spring is connected to the frame and to the arm 3 which is integral
with the lever and thereby causes the roller 61 to tighten the warp when allowed
to do so by the excentric. The warp then passes over the reed and finally
through the eyes c² of the ordinary needles c', which latter are mounted on the
needle rails c.
The rails c secured by clamps or blocks e which slide along the guides fare also
provided with uprights K moved in horizontal direction by the tail m on the upper
cross-bar l, and thereby forming the pattern. These rails c are reciprocated in both
a vertical and horizontal plane, the first movement being necessary for laying the
warp 6 in the shed of the ground warp, the blocks e for this purpose being rotably
attached to the connecting-rod 9 pivoted to the arm g¹. The latter on being
depressed by the cam causes the needle-rail c to descend to a like extent, while
the return of the rail is effected by the spring g².
The second reciprocating movement of the rails c i.e. in a horizontal plane, for
forming the pattern is effected by a cam n¹ keyed onto the main driving or other
shaft n, which through the medium of the levers or connection rods n 2 n 3, n 4
(Fig. 1) operates the shaft n5 and pawl n 6, the latter thus turning the chain
wheel o' to the extent of one tooth at each revolution of the cam n¹. The
endless pattern chain o2 is thus caused to run over the chain-wheel o' in the
direction shown by the arrow in Fig. 1, and hence the pattern is formed without
the aid of the Jacquard or like arrangement.
A roller p 2 in the arm p pivoted at pl runs over the chain o 2, the motion of the
latter being thus imparted to the connecting-rod q, preferably secured in a slot in
arm p and whose lower end is pivoted to the lever q' and this in turn to 92. In
this manner said motions are transmitted to the rail m. The extent of the
horizontal movement of the latter in the direction of the arrow (Fig. 2) may be
more or less increased by correspondingly altering the shape of the parts of each
member or link forming the chain o 2 (Fig. 4) such links may be readily changed
or interposed as desired, according to the pattern to be produced.
The motions of the chain o2 are transmitted to the rail m by means of a cam-
like member 93 having an inclined face and acting on roller m pivoted in the end
of rail m (Fig. 2). It will be evident that when the parts of the links (which are
preferably numbered) protrudes very much, the lever p is raised to a
spondingly-greater extent and this in turn raises the connecting rods q', q2 and
member 93. The return of rail m may be effected by a spring secured to the
cross bar l.
r
corre-
As shown in Fig. 5 two rails m, m" may be arranged, so as to be reciprocated in
horizontal, but opposite, directions simultaneously by means of a cone q', secured
to the connecting rod q 2 and acting on the rollers m³ m', pivoted in the rails m, m*.
On the rod 92 being raised in the manner above-described, therefore, the rail m is
forced to the left and simultaneously the rail m³ to the right. The springs r, r
return the rails to their original positions. It will be evident that the rails c
must also reciprocate vertically as before described, and for this purpose it is
preferable to provide the rail m³ with extensions m¹¹ for receiving the upright K¹
of one of the needle bars c.
According to Fig. 6, the horizontal movement of the rails m m simultaneously

page_text: in the same direction is effected by a member 9 having oblique sides running
parallel to each other.
It will also be evident that some of the needle-rails c may be made to reciprocate
horizontally, while the remainder reciprocate vertically only; further, that each
rail may be operated; by an independent mechanism, in which case a greater variety
of designs may be made.
By changing, or by interposing differently-shaped links in the endless-chain, it
is possible to make almost any kind of pattern; this may also be effected by
adjusting the lever p, or connecting rods 9, 9', or even the cam 93, or its
equivalents.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of this inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. The herein described means for making lappet-woven fabrics on looms of all
kinds, characterized by the employment of one or more endless chains (02)
actuated by intermediary gear operated by the loom and composed of members
having more or less protruding surfaces, the movements of such chains (2) being
transmitted by preferably adjustable connecting rods (p, 9, 11, 12) to the needle
rails (c) through the medium of a rail or rails (m, m³) attached to the upper cross-
bar (), substantially as described and shown in the drawing.
2. In combination with the means for making lappet woven fabrics as described
in Claim 1, the mechanism for actuating the endless-chain (o 2) comprising cam (n¹)
connecting-rods (n 2 n 3 n 4) pawl (n 6), shaft (n 5) and chain-wheel (o'), substan-
tially as described and shown in the drawing.
3. In combination with the means for making lappet-woven fabrics, cams, or
conical (preferably double-sided) members (93, 93, 93) preferably adjustable on
connecting-rod (92) and acting on rollers (m³, m¹1) of rails (m, m³), substantially
as and for the purposes herein set forth.
Dated this 20th day of November 1895.
W. P. THOMPSON & Co.,
31, High Holborn, London, W.C., Patent Agents for the Applicant.