Improvements in Button-hole Sewing Machines.
Year: 1899

page_text: Date of Application, 17th Aug., 1899-Accepted, 11th Aug., 1900
[Communicated from abroad by THE SINGER MANUFACTURING COMPANY, of New
York, United States of America, Sewing Machine Manufacturers.]
Improvements in Button-hole Sewing Machines.
I, JOHN KING MACDONALD, Manager of The Singer Manufacturing Company,
Kilbowie, Dumbartonshire, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in
what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascer-
tained in and by the following statement:-
This invention relates to an improvement in button hole sewing machines, and
consists in the novel features of construction and relative arrangement of parts
hereinafter fully described in the specification, clearly illustrated in the drawings, and
particularly pointed out in the claims.
Reference is to be had to the accompanying seven sheets of drawings, forming a
part of this application, in which like characters indicate like parts, wherever they
occur.
In the drawings,-
Figure 1 represents in side elevation a machine embodying my invention.
Figure 2 represents a top plan view of the mechanism below the bed-plate, the
latter being broken away.
Figure 3 represents a cross-sectional view on the line 3-3 of Figure 2, looking in
the direction of the arrow.
Figure 4 represents a front end elevation of the machine.
Figure 5 represents a rear end elevation of the machine.
Figure 6 represents a side elevation of the stop movement for the sewing
mechanism.
Figure 7 represents a vertical sectional view on the line 7-7 of Figure 6.
Figure 8 represents a cross-sectional view on the line 8-8 of Figure 6.
Figure 9 represents a top plan view of the intermittent gears and locks for rotating
and locking the needle bar and turret, the locks being shown in engagement.
Figure 10 is a like view showing the gears engageinent.
in
Figure 11 represents a detail perspective view of the starting mechanism.
Figure 12 represents a detail perspective view of the release rock-shaft for the work-
clamp toggles.
Figure 13 represents in vertical sectional view the turret with its sewing mechanism,
also the upper needle, the knife, and knife block.
Figure 14 represents a top plan view of the turret, and parts carried thereby.
Figure 15 represents a detail view, showing in front elevation the looper mechanism,
and a section of the turret.
Figure 16 represents a detail view of the throat-plate for handling the cord, the
work being shown in dotted lines, it being understood that the work rests on top of
the work plate.
Figure 17 represents a cross-sectional view thereof.

page_text: Figure 18 is a view similar to Figure 16, showing the work removed, and the cord
drawn clear for the next stitch.
Figure 19 represents a detail perspective view of the sewing mechanism, showing
the under needle passing through the loop of the upper needle, held by the looper.
Figure 20 represents a like view of the same parts, showing the upper needle
passing through the loop of the under needle, held by the looper.
Figure 21 is a like view of the same parts, showing the looper passing through the
loop of the upper needle.
Figure 22 represents in top plan view, the relative arrangement of the work holding
arms, and the spreading pin.
Referring to the drawings, in the embodiment of my invention herein shown and
selected by me for the purpose of illustration, the base A, bed-plate A¹, and the
overhanging arm A³ may be of any preferred construction, my invention not relating
to these parts, but to the hereinafter described mechanism supported thereby.
a represents a shaft mounted in suitable bearings on the under side of the bed-plate
in the rear of the machine. This shaft I term for convenience, the rear shaft.
a¹ represents a pulley fast upon the end of the shaft a, and arranged to be driven by a
belt a² from another wheel, not shown.
In the present embodiment of my machine the wheel a¹ is designed to run
continuously, and carries upon its inner side a spiral cam a³, see Figures 2, 4 and 5,
arranged to engage, for a predetermined length of time, a roll at on the end of the
sliding stud a. This stud is slidingly arranged in the horizontal arm a¹ of a bell
crank lever a, said lever being pivoted at its angle upon a pin a' carried by a bracket a³
on the lower side of the bed plate. A helical spring a is arranged upon the stud a
between the inner face of the arm a and a cap a¹0 screwed upon the inner end of the
stud, whereby the roll is yieldingly held in a plane inside of the plane of a spiral
cam a³, and therefore out of engagement with said cam, except when thrown into
engagement by means hereinafter described.
all represents a crown cam loosely mounted on the shaft a, and secured to, and
arranged to turn with the wheel a¹. Preferably, this crown cam all is formed on an
extended hub of the wheel a¹. a12 represents a disc fast on the shaft a, provided with
a lug as a represents a clutch member pivoted at one end to the lug a¹3. a15
represents a spring arranged between the disc a12 and clutch member, and arranged
to throw the free end of the clutch member outward, and its pin a16 into the slot a¹7
in the web of the crown cam all, when the lower end of the clutch member is released
from the cam track a¹8 on the lower arm as of the bell crank a. This cam track is
arranged to engage at a predetermined time the free end of the clutch member, and
as the clutch member continues to revolve, the engagement of its free end with this
cam track will withdraw the pin al from the slot a¹7. a represents a bell-crank
lever pivoted to a bracket at the top of the bed-plate. One arm of this lever is above
the bed-plate, while the vertical arm of the lever is connected at its lower end to a
sliding rod a20, see Figures 1 and 2. The free end of the rod a 20 is arranged to
engage the cap a¹º. The operator, by depressing the horizontal arm of the lever a¹
can thus throw the roll a into engagement with the cam a³. As the cam continues
to revolve it depresses the stud, and at the same time the horizontal arm a61,
sufficiently to draw this arm out of engagement with the free end of the clutch
member a14, thereby permitting the engagement of the pin ale with the slot a¹7, and
thereby clutching the shaft a with the wheel a¹, the clutch remaining in engagement
until its free end engages the cam track a¹, as heretofore described. The downward
movement of the arm a causes an inward movement of the vertical arm of the bell- 5
crank, the upper end of which is arranged to engage an arm of the lever a1 and force
it in the direction of the arrow in Figure 11. The lever a¹ is pivoted to the bed-
plate, as at a22, and has its opposite end arranged to engage the knuckles of the
toggles of the work clamp hereinafter described, see Figures 2 and 4.
The shaft a is provided with an eccentric a2, upon which an eccentric strap a² 5
is arranged, having a pitman a25 connecting said strap with the free end of the crank

page_text: arm a26. The opposite end of the crank arm 20 is fast upon a shaft a27 mounted in
suitable bearings in the overhanging arm.
928
The
represents a crank arm secured to the front end of the shaft a27, and having its
free end pivoted to one end of an arm a20, the opposite end of which is pivoted to a
collar as fast upon the cutter bar, see Figure 4. This cutter bar is arranged to
slide in brackets a, a, extending from the front end of the overhanging arm.
collar as is provided with a pin a, arranged to slide in a suitable hoie in the lower
bracket 2, in order to guide the cutter bar and prevent the latter from twisting, a³5
represents a knife carried by the lower end of the cutter bar, formed to cut a button-
hole or slit in the cloth or fabric. This cutter bar is shown and arranged to move at
an angle to the needle, in order that one end of the slot made by the knife may be
directly under, or close to the plane occupied by the path of the needle, so that the
button-hole will be cut in position to be stitched without further manipulation of the
cloth or fabric. This inclined position of the cutter bar to the needle, in addition to
enabling the knife to have a forward as well as a downward movement to properly
position and cut the slit, also enables the knife and bar, after the cutting operation,
to be readily drawn upward and away from the path of the needle.
The operation of the mechanism thus far described, is as follows:-
:-
The operator depresses the horizontal arm of the starting lever a 10, thereby forcing
the roll a into engagement with the spiral cam on the continuously running wheel a¹.
As the latter continues to revolve, the roll and pin, and also the horizontal arm are
depressed, first causing the movement of the lever a² to straighten the toggles of the
work clamp and clamp the work. Immediately thereafter the clutch member a14 is
released and the wheel a¹ locked to the shaft u, thereby causing the latter to revolve.
This movement of the shaft imparts one complete reciprocation to the cutter
bar a³, causing the latter to descend to cut the work, and to return to its initial
position. The parts are so timed that as soon as this movement of the cutter bar is
completed, the free end of the clutch member at engages the cam track a¹s, and its
pin is withdrawn from engagement with the aperture a" in the web of the crown
cam to automatically stop the shaft a.
a represents a path cam fast on the shaft a.
a represents a lever pivoted at one
end to a suitable bracket on the frame-work, and at its free end to a reciprocating
rod a represents a roll on the lever a¹¹, and arranged in the path of the cam a40.
The free end of the rod a2 (see Figure 3) is arranged to engage a lug a pivoted to
a bail as, that in turn is pivoted on the turret hereinafter described, at as, said bail
extending across the turret and having its ends bent downward for that purpose, (see
Figures 13 and 14). To this bail 45 is secured a cutter block a6 and a throat-
plate a. A spring as (see Figure 2) serves to yieldingly hold the bail, cutter block,
and throat-plate normally in the position shown in Figure 3. When, however, the
shaft a is rotated to cut a button-hole, as hereinafter described, simultaneously with
the motion of the cutter bar the rod at is thrown forward by the cam a40, roll a¹³ and
lever a to lock the bail a5 and throws the cutter block into the position shown in
Figure 13, to provide for the engagement of the knife with the cutter block, and
insure the proper and accurate cutting of the button-hole. The continued rotation
of the shaft a withdraws both the cutter bar and the rod 2 into position shown in
Figure 3, the spring a returning the bail to the position shown in Figure 3, and
the throat-plate a7 to the position therein shown ready for the stitching operation.
The throat-plate a7 is formed with the usual hole 21, for the passage of the needle,
and also with an under cut annular rib 2, around which the cord which is employed
to strengthen the edges of the button-hole, wraps, as the needle turret is rotated, (see
Figure 16). This projection 22 is slotted as at 1, in order to let the cord be dis-
engaged when the button-hole is completed, as shown in Figure 18.
b represents a lever pivoted midway its ends to the under side of the bed-plate, one
end of this lever (see Figure 11) being arranged to be engaged by the crown cam a¹¹,
immediately after the clutch member a¹ has been disengaged from the web thereof.
The engagement of the said crown cam with the roll of the lever b throws inward
the opposite end 62 of said lever (see Figure 2), and through the sliding bar 68 to

page_text: which said end 2 is connected, causes the outer end of the bar 63 to slide the stop
mechanism shown in Figures 6, 7 and 8. The inward movement of the end 62 of the
lever removes the plunger of the stop mechanism from the notched hub of the fast
pulley, and at the same time throws the belt 6311 from the loose pulley 641 to the fast
pulley 651, thereby starting the shaft 6 by which the sewing mechanism is driven.
The belt 6311 is connected to, and driven by a wheel, not shown, it being understood
that this belt, as well as the belt on the wheel a' are driven continuously; and
further, that the shaft b5 is not started until after the stopping of the shaft a, or
substantially at that time.
A path cam be on the shaft 65 serves to give motion to the take-up arm 67. 6° is a
lever pivoted midway its ends to the under side of the bed-plate, and of which one
end is arranged to be engaged by a wiper 610 on one of the discs hereinafter described.
The opposite end of this lever is formed with a dog b₁ arranged to engage an
aperture in the bar 63, when the latter is moved inward by the lever end 62, in order
to hold the parts in the position to which they are thrown by this arm. The inner
end of the bar 63 is cored out, and in this core is arranged a helical spring 612, the
said spring bearing at one end against the inner wall of the core, and its opposite
end against a fixed abutinent 613
The parts are so arranged and timed that after the completion of the stitching
operation, and just before the unclamping of the work, the wiper 610 engages the
arm b³, thereby releasing the dog b" from the har 63, permitting the spring 612 to
force the bar outward to throw the belt 6311 to the loose pulley 6", and the plunger
of the stop mechanism into engagement with the cam on the fast pulley hereinafter
described.
a
614 represents a rock-shaft mounted in suitable bearings in the bed of the machine.
This rock-shaft is formed with a depending arm 615 arranged to be engaged by
wiper b¹ carried by the path cam 6º, see Figure 12, and it carries an arm 617 arranged
to engage a complemental arm 618 connected to the toggles of the work clamp. In
order to keep the arm 615 in the path of the wiper, and the arm 67 normally in the
inoperative position a spring (not shown) is connected to the arm 615 and to the bed-
plate. The parts are so timed that the wiper 616 engages the arm 615 to rock the shaft
and open the work clamp just after the engagement of the wiper 610 with the arm 6º
to throw the belt 65 to the pulley 641 and slide the stop mechanism to its operative
position.
From the foregoing, it will be seen that the depression of the hand lever a 10
engages the roll at with the spiral cam, and that thereafter the several operations of
the machine are automatic in the order named, the first movement being to clamp
the work, immediately after which the knife mechanism is operated. At the
completion of these two steps the shaft a is automatically stopped, and the shaft b³
is automatically started, the latter being automatically started after the completion
of the clamping and cutting operation, and automatically stopped after the completion
of the stitching operation.
Referring to Figure 1, 61 and 620, represent the discs forming members of the
tension device for the needle thread. 61 represents a rod passing down through both
discs into the arm A². 623 represents a helical spring arranged on the rod 621 between
the disc 620 and a nut 624. By this construction constant tension is maintained on
the thread during the stitching operation. 625 represents an arm, one end of which
is forked to engage a complemental groove of the outer end of the rock-shaft 64.
The opposite end of this arm is secured to the sliding stop mechanism whereby the
rod 621 slides in unison with the har b³. When the arin 6 slides the bar b³ inward
to start the shaft 65, the arm 615 is slid to the left in Figure 12 a sufficient distance
to clear the wiper 16. When, however, the bolt 6s is released and thrown to the
right in Figure 2 by means of the spring 12, the arm 615 is moved into the path of
the wiper 61. A loop 626, Figure 2, extends from the stop mechanism around the
belts, whereby the said belt is moved to and from the fast pulley 51 by the
inward and downward motion of the bolt 63. When the belt is shifted from the tight
to the loose pulley, some provision is necessary for bringing the sewing mechanism

page_text: to rest at the proper point, without shock. To accomplish this result, I have provided
the means shown in Figures 1, 2 and 5, and in detail in Figures 6, 7 and 8. Upon
the shaft 65, and in close proximity to the fast pulley b51 is mounted a sliding box
or support c to which the outer end of the bar b³ is secured, and by which the box
is slid, the bar serving not only to keep the box in position, but also to move the
latter. This box is formed with an annular chamber c¹ which is arranged with a
helical spring c, the spring being confined at either end by pins c. c represents
a sleeve loosely mounted on a hub of the box c, provided with an upwardly extending
arm represent lugs formed on either side of said arm, and arranged to
engage the spring c², as shown in Figure 8. The arm c extends upward through
a suitably formed slot in the top of the box, and after it leaves the box, is extended
at an angle toward the fast pulley 651, see Figure 6. This extension c is hollowed
out to form a chamber, in which a plunger works (see Figure 7). The plunger
is formed with a pin arranged in a complemental slot clo, in order to prevent a
twisting motion of the plunger. The plunger cs at its upper end is cored, and in
this core portion is arranged a helical spring c. cz represents a cap screwed to
the upper end of the extension c7, and carrying a rol c13 arranged within the helical
spring cl, the latter bearing at one end against the lower portion of the chamber
in the rod c³, and its upper end against the cap c¹, as shown in Figure 7. By this
construction, the plunger c³ is spring-pressed toward the shaft b³, the tension being
regulated by means of a cap c¹².
The operation of the construction above described is as follows :-
Referring to Figure 6, in which the parts are represented as they are situated
during the stitching operation, the end of the plunger c8 being clear of the cam c¹4
formed on the tight pulley b³¹. At the completion of the stitching operation hereto-
fore referred to, the bolt 63 is slid to the right in Figure 2. This movement also
carries the sliding box to the right in said figure, and also in Figure 6.
This move-
ment of the box is made sufficient to carry the parts of the position shown in Figures 1
and 7; that is to say,-that the end of the plunger is over the cam c. The parts
are so timed that when the plunger c³ is brought over the cam c¹ it engages the cam
at its low point, and the further rotation of the shaft. 65 causes the cam to force the
plunger upward against the tension of the spring c¹¹. This operation acts as a break,
and the resistance offered by the plunger is sufficient to practically bring the shaft 65
to rest when the plunger reaches and is forced into the notch in the cam shown in
Figure 7. The plunger and its extension e' have an axial movement in addition to
the radial movement heretofore described, by reason of the arrangement of the strap
or collar c. From this it follows that whatever momentum is in the shaft 65 when
the plunger engages the notch in the cam c¹ will be taken up by the spring c², the
plunger, shaft, and cam revolving together against the tension of this spring, which
is sufficient to overcome the momentum left in the shaft when the plunger engages
the notch, and brings the shaft to rest without shock or jar. When the bolt 63 is slid
to the left in Figure 2, by means of the arm 62, the sliding box is likewise
correspondingly slid, and the plunger c removed from engagement with the cam ¢¹
to the position shown in Figure 6.
627 represents a pitman connecting the shaft 65 with the shaft 6 in the overhang-
ing arm by which the needle bar and its needle are reciprocated.
In Figure 2, frepresents a yoke pivoted to the front side of the machine at f¹, à
roller f80, connected to the end of the inner arm of said yoke is arranged in a
groove f2 on the upper side of a path cam fo secured to the vertical shaft e. By this
construction the yoke is oscillated on its pivot at predetermined times, and to a pre-
determined extent. f³ represents a carriage arranged to slide in suitable ways upon
the arms of the yoke f. f represents an arm connected to the rear end of said frame,
the extremity of said arm being formed with a projection or roller, arranged in a
longitudinal slot 5 in the free end of a lever fo. This lever is pivoted at its opposite
end at f' to the bed of the machine, and midway its ends provided with a roller ƒ³
shown in dotted lines, arranged in a groove fº of the path cam f 50 before referred to.
By this construction it will be seen that the sliding carriage f³ is moved forward and

page_text: back at predetermined times and to predetermined distances, the sliding carriage and
supporting yoke serving as means by which the work clamp, hereinafter described, is
given its several movements of reciprocating, and sidewise translation, in order to
properly position the edge of the button-hole to the action of the stitch-forming
mechanism.
Referring to Figure 3, there is shown in side elevation one half of my improved
work clamp, and as the two halves are duplicates of each other, a description of one
will be sufficient for both, the entire clamp being shown in end elevation in Figure 1,
in top plan view in Figure 2, and in side elevation in Figure 4. Referring to
Figure 3, h represents a pin secured in a vertical position by a screw h¹ in a cross bar,
or casting 2 on the inner end of the sliding carriage. This pin h it will be seen pro-
jects both above and below the cross-bar h², and it furnishes a pivot on which is
mounted a casting h³. h4 represents an arm projecting from the casting below the
cross-bar. h5 represents an arm projecting from said casting above the cross-bar.
represents one arm of a toggle, one of whose ends is mounted upon a pivot h
carried by the arm h*. represents a short arm secured to the pivot 7, and
provided with a set screw h° adapted to engage the arm 4 to limit the movement of
the pin and consequently the arm, or the arms he, he, may be secured together,
or made integral. 10 represents the other arm of the toggle, the knuckle h¹¹ of
which is formed by the pivotal connection between the two arms ho, ho, h¹² repre-
sents a lever pivoted intermediate its ends on the top of the arm h³. The rear end
of this lever is pivoted to the arm h¹º, and at the forward end of this lever is secured
the upper jaw h¹³ of the work clamp. 14 represents the lower complemental jaw of
the work clamp, and is secured by a screw 15 to the casting h³. From this construc-
tion it will be seen that both the jaws h13, 14, can be swung simultaneously from the
pin h, while the upper jaw h¹³ has a motion to and from the jaw 14 for clamping and
unclamping the goods, this motion being effected by the toggles composed of the
arms ho, ho, the work being clamped when the toggle is straightened, as in Figure 3,
by means of the lever a, and unclamped when the toggle is broken by means of the
rock-shaft b, as shown in Figure 4 in dotted lines; it being understood, of course,
that the work clamp is made up of two sets of arms, each set being like the pair
shown in Figure 3. The motion of the arms 13 away from the jaws h¹ is simul-
taneous, and in like directions. The swinging motion of each pair of jaws is toward
and from each other, the two pairs of jaws being in their nearest position when the
button-hole is being cut, and being thereafter swung on the pins h away from each
other in order to spread the button-hole. The mechanism for spreading the jaws in
the present embodiment of my machine consists of a bar carried by each casting h³,
or jaws h¹ rigid on said casting, this bar being struck by a movable member. The
swinging of the two castings necessitates a simultaneous swinging of the pair of arms
carried by each casting.
Referring to Figures 3 and 22, 16 represents cam plates secured to the lower
jaws h, with their cam surfaces facing each other. 7 represents a bracket
extending up from the cross-bar h2 between the jaws h. This bracket at its end
supports a rotatable spindle h¹s h¹ represents a pin extending down from said
spindle between the cam plates 16. 20 represents a pin extending from said spindle
into a loop on the upper jaw 13, the pin 20 serving to steady the spindle and
to move it in one direction, as hereinafter described. h represents a spring con-
nected with the pin h¹, adapted to pull the pin to the left in Figure 3. h
represents a projection on the bar When this bar is slid to the right in
Figure 3, to throw the cutter block in the position shown in Figure 13, the pro-
jection passes under the end of the pin h¹ as the two clamps are then unseparated;
but when the bar is moved to the left, the projection 23 engages the arm 10, and
forces it between the cam plates to separate the clamps, and spread the button-hole,
the parts remaining in this position during the sewing operation. When the clamps
are drawn up after the sewing operation the loop engages the pin 20 and rocks
the spindle to withdraw the pin 19 from between the can plates, thus allowing the
clamps to approach each other.

page_text: e represents an upright shaft supported in suitable bearings in the bed of the
machine. The shaft is provided with a worm-gear el adapted to be driven by a
worm e² on the shaft 65. To this shaft above and below the bed-plate are secured
stop-gears es, et, respectively, the stop-gear being arranged to turn and hold the
upper sewing mechanism, while the stop-gear et simultaneously turns and holds the
lower sewing mechanism.
arm.
The needle bar r is arranged to turn in suitable bearings in the overhanging
This needle bar is centrally cored as at 2, in order to let the needle thread
pass through it to the needle. The needle bar at its lower end is suitably deflected
from a right line, as at 3, in order that, as the needle bar is rotated, its needle
may assume the proper relation in respect to the lower sewing mechanism herein-
after described.
8 (Figure 13) represents a turret cylinder mounted and arranged to turn in
suitable aperture in a bracket in the base of the machine. This turret carries the
lower sewing mechanism. Upon the base of the turret and upon the needle bar
are secured complemental stop-gears e³, e, adapted for engagement with their
complemental gears e³, et. As both sets of gears are duplicates of each other, and
the series act in unison, the description of one will suffice for all.
Referring to Figures 1, 9 and 10, it will be seen that the stop-gears e³, et, are
composed of a disc e. To one side of this disc is secured a mutilated gear e³,
while to the opposite side of the disc, and the opposite end of the diameter thereof
is secured a differential gear e. The periphery of the disc is mutilated beneath
the gear es and above the gear e, and is uniform between said gears.
The needle bar r and the turret s are each provided with a mutilated plate elo
to co-act with the disc e, the formation of the plates and discs being such that the
needle bar and turret s are held stationary during predetermined times. Above
and below the disc 10 is secured a mutilated gear ell and a differential gear el
corresponding respectively to the gears es, e.
The cam surfaces of the co-acting plates e10 and e7 are provided so that the latter
can make a partial rotation without effecting a movement of the former, the notches
on each of said plates being to receive the corners in the other plate.
The parts are so constructed that when the complemental gears are in mesh, the
complemental surfaces of the stop plates are disengaged, and vice versa. It follows
from this that the turret and needle bar are intermittently rotated by the plates and
gears, which I term for convenience "stop gears."
When the stitching operation begins at one end of the button-hole, the disc e
beneath the mutilated portion of the gear es will be in engagement with the com-
plemental stop face on the disc e10. At the completion of one or more stitches, the
gear teeth at the left in Figure 9, will engage complemental gear teeth of
the turret and needle bar, thereby giving both parts a partial rotation to turn the
upper needle and turret and cause the formation of stitches part way around the end
of the button hole slit. Immediately thereafter the stop plates come to engagement.
At this point the sliding frame f³ is moved forward, in order to stitch the side of
the button-hole.
At the completion of this movement, to wit:-in the vicinity of the eye of the
button-hole, the stop gears are in the position shown in Figure 9. As soon as the
eye of the button-hole is reached, it is necessary to carry the stitching mechanism
around the latter. This is accomplished both by movement of the stitching
mechanism, and by the swinging movement of the yoke f above referred to. At the
proper point the differential gears e³, e¹², come into engagement, first, moving the
needle bar and turret rapidly, and thereafter slowly, the movement being sufficient to
carry the sewing mechanism around the eye end of the button-hole to the opposite
side of the button-hole, at which point the complemental face of the disc e7, at the
right in Figure 9, comes into engagement with the complemental faces of the disc elo,
holding the stitching mechanism stationary. At this point the sliding frame is
moved again to the rear to stitch the last side of the button-hole. When near the
completion of the operation the right hand gear teeth of the gear -es in Figure 9

page_text: comes into engagement with its complemental gear teeth on the needle bar and
turret, thereby swinging the sewing mechanism around the end of the slit until the
stop faces between the two sets of gear teeth of the gear es come into engagement
with the complemental stop faces on the needle bar turret. This presses the parts to
the initial position, and the several movements are so timed that at this point,
the machine is automatically stopped, as heretofore described, and the work
unclamped.
It will be noted that the gear-teeth el, 612, are at different distances radially from
their common support the teeth e8, eo, being also at different distances from the axis
of their movement. This is for the purpose of causing a differential rotative move-
ment of the stitch-forming mechanism, so that the needles will swing around the
small end of the button-hole slit more rapidly than around the other end.
The upper sewing mechanism consists of the usual reciprocating needle bar r, and
its needle. The lower sewing mechanism, as I have stated, is mounted in and
carried by a turret s, and is arranged to be driven by a pitman s¹ connected to the
One arm
shaft 65. represents a bell crank lever pivoted at its angle to the turret.
of this lever is connected by a ball and socket joint to the pitman s¹, while the other
arm of the lever is connected by a link 83 to a lever s4, which is pivoted at one end
to the turret, and at its opposite end carries the needle looper, or under thread-
carrier 85 of the lower sewing mechanism.
Referring to Figure 13, it will be seen that the link together with one arm of
the bell crank lever 82 constitute a toggle, and that when this toggle is straight, the
needle 85 will be at its highest point. The parts are constructed in order to carry the
knuckle s still further to the left, to a position corresponding to the position which it
occupies to the right in Figure 13. Supposing the toggle to be straight, then, as the
knuckle moves to the left, the needle & will drop, or dip, thereby loosening its thread
to form a loop through which the upper needle 4 can pass. The knuckle then
returns to its straight position again carrying the needle to its highest point, and then
the knuckle is carried to the position shown in Figure 13, bringing the needle to its
lowest point. It will thus be seen that the lower needle is not only carried through
the fabric, but is also given a dip for the purpose stated.
t represents an arm pivoted at one end of the turret. The free end of this arm, see
Figures 14 and 15, is formed as a bearing t¹, in which is loosely arranged a spindle t².
To the upper end of this spindle is secured a loop spreader t³. t represents an arm
pivoted at one end of the turret. 15 is a link pivoted at one end in ears in the
arm t, and at its other end secured to the spindle t². t' is a vertical lip on the arm t*,
to which is secured a ball t*. to. Figure 14, represents a link connected at one end to
the ball t in a ball and socket joint, and at its other end by a like joint on the end of
the pin 10 carried by the arm st. By this construction it will be seen that the loop
spreader is given a movement of translation, and likewise a movement of rotation on
the pin 2. The operation of the upper and lower stitch mechanism forming the stitch
is shown successively in Figures 19, 20 and 21. In Figure 19, the lower needle is
passed through the loop of the upper needle held by the loop spreader, while in
Figure 20, the under needle has been projected through the fabric, and the upper
needle has passed through the loop of the lower needle, the latter being dipped, as
heretofore stated.
In Figure 21, the loop spreader is shown passing through the loop of the upper
needle to hold the thread ready for the under needle to pass through the loop of the
upper needle, as shown in Figure 19, it being understood that the lower needle passes
through the slot of the button-hole, while the upper needle penetrates the fabric.
The mechanism for operating the under-thread carrier, or "lower needle," as I have
termed it, and the looper spreader, are positively connected to the driven parts
"9 or
respectively, being termed either "lever mechanism
toggle mechanism." By
this positive connection, they operate the loop spreader and the lower needle, without
the aid or employment of cams or kindred devices, and hence I am enabled to run the
machine at a high rate of speed and without noise or a great expenditure of power.
The lever mechanism is connected by a universal joint with the operating shaft, said

page_text: joint being formed of a ball and socket, whereby the upper portion of the connection
is capable of rotating or oscillating relatively to the lower part.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. In a button-hole sewing machine the combination with stitch-forming
mechanism, including an upper needle, and its bar, and a lower needle and a rotary
turret therefor, of an operatively movable cutter-block mounted on the turret, a
button-hole cutter adapted to co-act with said cutter-block, said cutter and block
being movable into and out of the lines of the needle-bar, and means for giving said
cutter and block their described operations.
2. In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism
including an upper needle and its bar, and a lower needle and a rotary turret therefor,
of a cutter mounted on a stationary support, a cutter-block mounted movably on said
turret, and automatic mechanism for bodily moving said cutter and block into
operative position with respect to the stitch-forming mechanism, whereby the cutting
is accomplished without shifting or moving the work.
3. In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination of stitch-forming mechanism,
a button-hole cutter, a rotary turret carrying a part of the said stitch-forming
mechanism, and a cutter-block pivotally located upon the turret.
4. In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination of stitch-forming mechanism,
a turret carrying a part of the said stitch-forming mechanism, a cutter, a cutter-
block mounted on the turret and normally in an inoperative position, and means for
moving said cutter and block simultaneously into and out of operative position.
5. In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination of stitch-forming mechanism,
a cutter, a turret for carrying a portion of the stitch-forming mechanism, a cutter-
block, a support for the cutter-block binged to the turret, and means for operating
the cutter and the cutter-block.
6. In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination of stitch-forming mechanism,
a cutter, a turret carrying a portion of the stitch-forming mechanism, a cutter-block
movably nounted on the turret, a shaft, and connections between the shaft and the
cutter and cutter-block.
7. In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination of stitch-forming mechanism,
including a rotary turret, a cutter, a cutter-block, and a throat-plate mounted on said
turret, and means for moving the cutter-block and throat-plate into and out of
operative position alternately.
8. In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination of stitch-forming mechanism,
a cutter, a turret carrying a portion of the stitch-forming mechanism, a movable
support mounted on the turret, and a throat-plate and cutter-block located on said
support, and means for actuating said support to move said throat-plate and cutter-
block alternately into operative position.
9. In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination of stitch-forming mechanism,
a turret carrying a portion of said stitch-forming mechanism, a cutter, a throat-plate
and a cutter-block connected together and having their operative faces lying in inter-
secting planes, and a support for said work-plate and cutter-block pivoted upon the
turret.
10. In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination of a work-clamp, a button-
hole cutting mechanism, a shaft connected to the cutting mechanism, a continuously
rotating wheel loose on the shaft, and having a cam, a two-armed lever adapted to
operate the work-clamp, a spring-tensioned clutch, connected to the shaft and dis-
engaged and normally held out of engagement with the said wheel by the two-armed
lever, and manually operated devices for temporarily connecting the two armed lever
with the cam, to cause first the operation of the work-clamp, and secondly, the
operation of the cutting mechanism."
11. In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination with a work-clamp, button-
hole cutting mechanism, and stitch-forming mechanism, of a shaft, a rotating wheel

page_text: loose thereon, and clutch mechanism fast thereon for actuating the stitch-forming
mechanism, a second shaft, a wheel on said second shaft and having cams fast
therewith, a lever adapted to actuate the work clamp and arranged to be actuated by
one of said cams, a spring tensioned clutch fast on the second shaft adapted to
engage the other of said cams but disengaged from and held out of engagement
with the said cam by said lever, a second lever adapted to be acted on by one of said
cams for engaging and operating the clutch mechanism on the first-mentioned shaft,
and manually controlled devices for engaging the second-mentioned lever with its
cam to cause, first, the operation of the work-clamp by the first-mentioned lever,
second, the operation of the cutting mechanism by the second-mentioned shaft, and
third, the operation of the stitch-forming mechanism by connecting the first-men-
tioned shaft and its wheel through the medium of the second mentioned lever.
12. In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination of stitch-forming mechanism,
a rotary turret carrying a portion of the stitch-forming mechanism, button-hole
cutting mechanism including a movable cutter-block mounted on the turret and a
movable cutter, a work clamp, and mechanism for operating the work-clamp to
engage the work, mechanism independent of the stitch-forming mechanism for
operating the cutting mechanism to cut a button-hole slit while the work is in
position for but before the stitching operation, mechanism for setting in motion the
stitch-forming mechanism, devices for stopping the said stitch-forming mechanism,
and means for operating the clamp to release the work.
13. In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination of an upper needle, means
for actuating said upper needle, a lower needle or under thread carrier adapted to
pass through a button-hole slit, means for causing the rotation of said upper needle
and said under needle or thread carrier, and a toggle for operating the under needle
or thread carrier.
14. In a sewing machine, the combination with an upper needle, and actuating
means therefor whereby said needle is caused automatically to travel around the end
of a button-hole slit, of a turret, means for imparting a rotatory movement to said
turret, an under or lower needle supported by said turret, a toggle for actuating said
lower or under needle, and means for operating the toggle.
15. In a sewing machine, the combination with an upper needle, and actuating
means to automatically cause the said needle to sew around the end of a button-hole
slit, of a turret, means for imparting a rotatory movement to said turret, an under or
lower needle supported by said turret, toggle-levers for actuating said under or lower
needle, one of the toggle levers being a bell-crank, and means for actuating the
bell-crank.
16. In a sewing machine, the combination with an upper needle, an actuating
means to automatically cause the said needle to sew around the end of a button-hole
slit, of a turret, means for imparting a rotatory movement to said turret, an under or
lower needle supported by said turret, a needle carrier pivoted at its end, toggle
levers one of which is pivoted to the needle carrier between its ends, and means for
actuating the toggles.
17. In a sewing machine, the combination with an upper needle, and actuating
means to automatically cause the said needle to sew around the end of a button-hole
slit, of a turret, means for imparting a rotatory movement to said turret, a lower or
under needle supported by said turret, a pivoted needle carrier, a support, a toggle
pivoted to the support and to the needle carrier, one of the levers of the toggle being
a bell-crank and mechanism for operating the bell-crank.
18. In a sewing machine, the combination of an upper needle, means to
reciprocate it, means for automatically causing the said needle to sew around the end
of a button-hole slit, a turret, means for imparting rotatory movement to said turret,
a lower needie, a toggle supported by said turret for reciprocating said lower needle,
and means for actuating the toggle.
19. In a button-hole sewing machine, a cutter for forming a button-hole slit, a
work-clamp, and stitch-forming mechanism, said stitch-forming mechanism.com-
prising an upper needle, means to actuate said needle to cause it to sew around the

page_text: end of a button-hole slit, a turret, means for imparting a rotatory movement to said
turret, a lower needle adapted to pass through the button-hole slit supported by said
turret, and means including a toggle for actuating said lower needle.
20. In a button-hole sewing machine, a cutter for forming a button-hole slit, a
work clamp, and stitch-forming mechanism, said stitch-forming mechanism comprising
an upper needle, means to actuate said needle to cause it to sew around the end of a
button-hole slit, a turret, means for imparting a rotatory movement to said turret, a
lower needle adapted to pass through the button-hole slit, and supported by said
turret, and lever mechanism including a toggle and a bell-crank for actuating said
lower needle.
21. In a button-hole sewing machine, a cutter for forming a button-hole slit, a
work-clanp, and stitch-forming mechanism, said stitch forming mechanism comprising
an upper needle, means to actuate said needle to cause it to sew around the end of a
button-hole slit, a lower needle adapted to pass through the button-hole slit, a turret,
means for imparting a rotatory movement to said turret, a movable support for said
lower needle mounted on said turret, and a toggle for actuating said support, said
toggle being constructed and arranged to have its knuckle traverse a path intersecting
the line connecting the outer ends of the toggle, whereby said lower needle is caused
to dip when it reaches the end of its movement through the said slit, and before it
begins its reverse movement.
22. In a sewing machine, the combination of an upper needle, means to reciprocate
it, a turret, means for imparting a simultaneous intermittent rotatory movement to
the turret and the upper needle, a lower needle supported on said turret, and means
to reciprocate said lower needle, said means comprising a toggle, one member of
which is a bell-crank, and means for oscillating the bell-crank.
23. In a sewing machine, the combination of an upper needle, means to reciprocate
it, a turret, means for imparting a simultaneous intermittent rotary movement to the
turret and the upper needle, a lower needle mounted on said turret, and means to
reciprocate said lower needle, said means comprising a pivoted needle carrier, a toggle
pivoted to the turret and to the needle carrier, and means for oscillating one member
of the toggle.
24. In a button-hole sew ing machine, a stitch-forming mechanism comprising an
upper needle, a lower needle, a locp spreader, a turret upon which the lower needle
and loop spreader are mounted, means for operating the turret, and a toggle for
actuating the loop-spreader.
25. In a sewing machine, the combination of an upper and a lower needle and
their carriers, means for actuating said needles, a loop spreader, a swinging loop
spreader carrier separate from the lower needle and its carrier, and a toggle for
actuating the loop spreader.
.26. In a sewing machine, the combination with an upper and a lower needle,
carriers for said needles, and actuating mechanisin therefor, of a loop-spreader, a
pivotal loop-spreader carrier, separate from the lower needle carrier, a toggle for
imparting a movement of translation to the loop-spreader carrier, and a movement of
rotation to the loop spreader, and mechanism for actuating the toggle.
27. In a sewing machine, the combination of an upper and a lower needle, said
lower needle being adapted to pass through a button-hole slit, mechanism for
actuating said needles, a loop-spreader supported independently of the said needles,
and a toggle for actuating the said loop-spreader.
28. In a sewing machine, the combination with an upper and a lower needle, said
lower needle being adapted to pass through a button-hole slit, and mechanism for
actuating said needles, of a loop-spreader located permanently below the work, and
toggle mechanism for actuating the said loop-spreader.
29. In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination of a cutter for making a
button-hole slit, a work-clamp, an upper needle, actuating means for said needle,
a lower needle adapted to pass through the button-hole slit, actuating means for
said lower needle, a loop-spreader, and a toggle for operating said loop-spreader.
30. In a sewing machine, the combination with an upper and a lower needle, and

page_text: means for actuating said upper needle, of a toggle for actuating the lower needle, a
loop spreader, a toggle for actuating the loop-spreader, and connections between the
toggles whereby one is actuated by the other.
31. In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination of a rotatory upper needle,
means for actuating said upper needle, a lower needle, a turret carrying the lower
needle, means to rotate the turret in one direction only, a loop spreader mounted on
the turret and toggles for operating the lower needle and the loop-spreader.
32. In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination of a rotatory upper needle,
a lower needle, mechanism for actuating said needles, a rotatory turret carrying the
lower needle, a looper mounted on the turret, and a toggle for operating the looper.
33. In a button-hole sewing machine, stitch-forming mechanism comprising an
upper needle, a lower needle, a turret carrying said lower needle, and mechanism for
imparting an intermittent rotatory movement always in the same direction to the
upper needle and the turret, the last said mechanism comprising co-acting mutilated
gears.
34. In a button-hole sewing machine, stitch-forming mechanism, comprising an
upper needle, a lower needle, a turret, and mechanism for imparting an intermittent
differential rotatory movement to the upper needle and the turret, said imechanism
including co-acting gears each having its teeth further from its centre on one side
than on its other side.
35. In a button-hole sewing machine, stitch-forming mechanism comprising an
upper needle, a lower needle, a turret and mechanism for imparting an intermittent
differential rotatory movement to the upper needle and the turret, said mechanism
including co-acting mutilating gears each having its teeth further from its centre on
one side than on the radially opposite side.
36. In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination of stitch-forming mechanism
and a turret carrying a lower needle, and mechanisin for imparting an intermittent
rotatory movement to the upper needle and the turret, the last said mechanism com-
prising a shaft having two mutilated dises each provided with gear teeth, a mutilated
disc and gears on the turret and gears and a mutilated disc on the upper needle-
bar.
37. A button-hole sewing machine, comprising a turret having a mutilated disc,
and a gear on each side of the disc, a shaft having a mutilated disc in engagement
with the first mentioned dise, and a mutilated gear on each side of the second
mentioned disc adapted to alternately engage with the mutilated gears of the
turret.
38. A button-hole sewing machine, comprising an upper needle bar having a
mutilated disc and a gear on each side of the disc, and a shaft having a mutilated disc
with mutilated gears on each side thereof.
39. A button-hole sewing machine comprising a needle carrier having a mutilated
eccentric gear, and a driving shaft having a mutilated eccentric gear to mesh inter-
mittingly with the first-mentioned gear, whereby a deferential movement is imparted
to said needle-bar.
40. In a button-hole sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming
mechanism of clamping mechanism comprising two clamping members, toggle levers
connected to the outer ends of said members, a lever for throwing the toggle into
operative position, a cam and devices operated by the cam. for throwing the toggle
into inoperative position.
41. In a button-hole sewing machine, stitch-forming mechanism including an
upper needle, a lower thread-carrier, and a rotatory turret for said lower thread-
carrier, and a throat-plate mounted on said turret and having an aperture to permit
of the passage of the button-hole cord, said throat-plate also having a slot extending
from said aperture to its edge.
42. In a button-hole sewing machine, stitch-forming mechanism including an
upper needle, a lower-thread carrier, and a rotatory turret for said lower thread-
carrier, and a throat-plate mounted on said turret and having an aperture to permit

page_text: of the passage of the button-hole cord, said throat-plate also having a slot for the cord
to lie in, and under-cut edges for the purpose set forth.
43. In a button-hole sewing machine, upper thread mechanism, under thread
mechanism including a rotary turret, a throat plate supported on said turret, and
mechanism for rocking said throat-plate relatively to the turret for the purpose set
forth.
44. In a button-hole sewing machine, an upper needle, a lower needle, a turret, a
loop spreader mounted on said turret, mechanism for actuating said loop-spreader to
take a loop from one needle and present it to the other, ineans for operating
the upper needle, and lever mechanism including a toggle for operating the said
lower needle.
45. In a sewing machine, an upper needle, a lower needle, a turret, a loop spreader
mounted on said turret independently of the needles to take a loop from one needle
and present it to the other, means for operating the upper needle, lever mechanism
including a toggle for operating said lower needle and connections between the said
mechanism and said loop spreader.
46. In a sewing machine, an upper needle, a lower needle, a turret, a loop spreader
mounted on said turret independently of the needles to take a loop from one needle
and present it to the other, means for operating the upper needle, lever mechanism
including a toggle for operating said lower needle, and lever mechanism for operating
the said loop spreader.
47. In a button-hole sewing machine, an upper needle, a lower needle adapted to
pass through a button-hole slit, a pivoted carrier for said lower needle, means for
operating the upper needle, a turret for the lower needle to swing it around the end
of a button-hole slit, and toggle mechanism for operating said lower needle, said
mechanism being connected to said lower needle carrier to move it positively into and
out of operative position.
48. In a button-hole sewing machine, an upper needle, a lower needle adapted to
pass through a button-hole slit, a pivoted carrier for said lower needle, means for
operating the upper needle, a turret for the lower needle to swing it around the end
of a button-hole slit, and mechanism for operating said lower needle, said mechanisin
comprising a shaft, and positive connections including a toggle between said shaft.
and said lower needle carrier whereby said needle is moved positively into and out of
operative position.
49. In a button-hole sewing machine, an upper needle, a lower needle adapted to
pass through a button-hole slit, a pivoted carrier for said lower needle, means for
operating the upper needle, a turret for the lower needle to swing it around the end
of a button-hole slit, and mechanism for operating said lower needle, said mechanisın
comprising a shaft, and positive connections between said shaft and said lower needle
carrier whereby said needle is moved positively into and out of operative position,
said connections including a toggle and provisions for permitting a rotatory movement.
of the needle relatively to the shaft.
50. In a button-hole sewing machine, an upper needle, a lower needle adapted to
pass through a button-hole slit, a pivoted carrier for said lower needle, means for
operating the upper needle, a turret for the lower needle to swing it around the end
of a button-hole slit, a shaft and positive connections between said shaft and said
lower needle-carrier whereby the needle is carried into and out of operative position
by the shaft, said connections including a toggle and a swivel joint.
51. In a button-hole sewing machine, an upper needle, a lower needle adapted to
pass through a button-hole slit, a pivoted carrier for said lower needle, means for
operating the upper needle, a turret for the lower needle to swing it around the end
of a button-hole slit, a shaft and positive connections between said shaft and said
lower needle-carrier whereby the needle is carried into and out of operative position
by the shaft, said connecting including a toggle and a ball connected to the toggle
and a socket connected to the shaft.
52. In a button-hole sewing machine, an upper needle, a lower needle, complimental

page_text: stitch-forming mechanism, a turret and actuating means therefor, in combination
with cutting mechanism comprising an anvil or cutter block movably mounted on the
turret, and a cutter mounted upon a suitable support to which the turret and cutter
block are relatively rotatable.
Tinted this 10th don of Ant 1000
WALLACE FAIRWEATHER,
Of the Firm of Cruikshank & Fairweather,
Chartered Patent Agents, 62, Saint Vincent Street, Glasgow,
Agent for the Applicant.