AN IMPROVEMENT IN COLLARS
Year: 1885

page_text: We JOHN EDWARD MINOT of 2 Lebanon Terrace, Merton Road Wandsworth
(Collar Maker) and EDWARD ALLEN PRICE of the firm of Welch Margetson and
Company of 17 Cheapside E.C. Manufacturers and Warehousemen do hereby declare
the nature of the said invention for AN IMPROVEMENT IN COLLARS" to be as
follows:-
86
This Invention relates to stand-up collars and has for its object to provide a tab
at the back for preventing the neck tie riding up behind, which tab is in one piece
with the fabric of which the collar is made and which is superior both in appearance
durability and otherwise to tabs having a similar object which it has been hereto-
fore proposed to use. Such tabs have been generally either sewn on to or cut out
of the fabric of the collar both of which modes of applying or making the tabs
entail disadvantages which it is unnecessary to particularize.
According to this invention, which is applicable to stand-up collars made either
with an all round neck band or with a partial band or gusset at the back only, the
tab is cut out in one piece with the outermost ply and with one of the two inner
or stiffening plys of fabric of which the upper part of the collar, is made (in the
case of a four ply collar) such tab forming a downward extension at the back,
overlapping the band and reaching down to about the bottom edge thereof and
covering the back button hole. The two other plys, of which the upper part of
the collar is composed are cut of the usual shape and are stitched between the
plys composing the band or partial band or gusset (as the case may be) in the usual
way whilst the tab itself is left free and the two plys of which it is composed are
united and finished off by button hole stitching the edges or otherwise.

page_text: We JOHN EDWARD MINOT of 2 Lebanon Terrace Merton Road Wandsworth,
Collar Maker and EDWARD ALLEN PRICE of the Firm of Welch Margetson and
Company of 17 Cheapside E.C. Manufacturers and Warehousemen; do hereby
declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:-
"
This Invention relates to the manufacture of "stand up" linen collars with a
tab at the back of the collar for the purpose of preventing the neck-tie from riding
up out of place behind. We are aware that collars have already been provided
with such tabs in the same situation and for the same purpose, and that such tabs
have been cut out of the outer ply of fabric called by collar makers the "front
and we do not therefore lay any claim to such construction; but this Invention has
for its especial object to reduce the cost of manufacture, improve the appearance,
and increase the durability of that part of the collar at which the tab is formed.
Reference is to be had to the accompanying drawings forming part of this
specification wherein Figure 1 represents a perspective rear view of the collar
complete; and Figure 2 represents the collar in the flat. Figures 3. 4. and 5.
represent patterns of different portions of the fabric composing the collar before
the same is made up.
run
"
a is the tab cut out in one piece with the outermost ply of fabric b technically
called the "front" and with the interlining (in the case of a three ply collar) or
with both the interlinings or stiffening plys (in the case of a four ply collar)
Figure 3 representing the pattern both of the "front" and of the said interlinings.
Such tab is formed by removing portions of the fabric at each side thereof, the tab
extending down to about the bottom edge of the collar as shown and covering the
back button hole. The portion of the "front" b so cut away and used to form the
tab is replaced by a two-ply gusset piece c the pattern of which is represented in
Figure 4 and which is let into the collar and united to the "front" and back as here-
after described. The back d or fabric constituting the inner surface of the collar
is cut out of the usual shape as shown in Figure 4. The "front" and "back" b
and d and the one or two plys of interlining are first superposed and
together around the edges e and the gusset pieces c are then sewn to the front b
along the edges e¹ the parts being wrong side out and the lines of sewing being
indicated by the letters e e¹ respectively in Figures 3. 4. 5. The gusset pieces c are
also sewn to the interlining (but not to the front b) along the line x x crossing the
tab. The collar being then turned right side out and the bottom edges of the
front," "back," and interlinings being then turned up the collar is then stitched
along the lines whereby those parts which have not already been "run" together
are united. The turned up lower edges of the tab are then stitched together along
the line and the side edges a¹ of the tab are prevented from ravelling either by
similarly folding them in and stitching, or by working along those edges ordinary
button hole stitches. The collar is then complete with the exception of the button
holes. It will be seen that the part of the collar covered by the gusset portion c
"
1

page_text: of the "front" has only three plys and constitutes a sort of partial band which
admits of greater freedom in wear and affords more room for the neck tie or band
of the cravat to pass beneath the downwardly extending and overlapping flap or
This tab is of such width (about two inches) that the curvature of the
collar when applied round the neck of the wearer is imparted to the tab also and
tends to keep it snugly in position.
tab a.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said
Invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what
we claim is ;-
The manufacture of "stand up" collars with a flap or tab at the back by cutting
out the "front" b and one or two ply interlining of the form shown in Figure 3
to form the tab a combining with a "front" and one or two ply interlining so cut
out a two-ply gusset piece c and uniting the whole to a "back" of ordinary form
substantially as described and illustrated in the drawings.