Improvements in the Manufacture and in the Production of Colored Designs on Woven Fabrics.
Year: 1897

page_text: Date of Application, 9th Aug., 1897
Complete Specification Left, 4th May, 1898-Accepted, 6th Aug.,
1898
Improvements in the Manufacture and in the Production of Colored
Designs on Woven Fabrics.
A communication from MESSRS. J. HEILMANN ET CIE., of Mulhouse, Alsace,
Manufacturers.
I, GEORGE BELOE ELLIS, of the Firm of J. C. Mewburn & Ellis, of 55 and 56,
Chancery Lane, in the County of London, Chartered Patent Agents, do hereby
declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:
This invention has reference to the production of colored designs on fabrics
woven with embroidery-like patterns.
For some years fabrics have been woven so as to show raised designs like em-
broidery-work on a plain ground. The said fabrics are made in plain white and
sometimes woven in colors, the white fabrics being dyed in plain colors if desired,
according to the usual methods.
Imitations of fabrics woven in colors have been produced by printing so as to
show white designs on a colored ground. This has been effected by applying the
color on the back of the material in the form of a thick paste so that it may
impregnate the ground, but not the raised or embroidered part, the fabric being
then dried and fixed in the usual way, for example by steaming.
Up to the present, however, it has not been possible to produce woven fabrics
having embroidery-like designs with colored designs on the raised portion, and
the present invention consists in the production of such colored fabrics.
In carrying out this invention, a woven fabric is taken having thereon an
embroidered design. This fabric should be entirely white, and the invention
consists in applying to the raised design a different color to that of the back-
ground.
A resist is placed on the back of the fabric, which is then dried, and then a
new color is printed on the other side, which is fixed in the usual manner, for
example by steaming. As the resist prevents the color from being fixed in the
background, only the raised part eventually becomes colored. By washing, the
resist and the unfixed color are removed, and colored designs are effectively ob-
tained on a white background.
The invention can also be carried out by the discharge process.
The fabric is
dyed with the color which it is eventually desired to obtain on the raised portions;
the back is then padded with the discharge, and the fabric. then passed through
the discharging bath in the usual way.
Having stated the nature of the invention, I will further illustrate it by giving
the following examples, but I premise that these can be varied in their details and
that they are merely typical, illustrating the application of the invention to particu-
lar cases.
EXAMPLE 1.

page_text: of the fabric is then printed or padded with tannin colors, dried, steamed and
washed; in this way colored raised designs are obtained on a colored ground.
The same effect can also be obtained by following Example 1 and incorporating
a coloring matter with the thickened acetate of lime. In this case a black raised
design is obtained on a colored ground.
In carrying out this invention, the back of the material may be padded with
a resist of such composition and strength as to be only able to reserve a part of
the colors which are padded or printed on the other side, thus making more than
one color or shade in addition to the background.
Dated this Oth dow of Au 100%
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture and in the Production of Colored
Designs on Woven Fabrics.
A communication from MESSRS. J. HEILMANN ET CIE., of Mulhouse, Alsace,
Manufacturers.
I, GEORGE BELOE ELLIS, of the Firm of J. C. Mewburn & Ellis, of 55 and 56,
Chancery Lane, in the County of London, Chartered Patent Agents, do hereby
declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement: -
This invention has reference to the production of colored designs on fabrics
woven with embroidery-like patterns.
For some years fabrics have been woven so as to show raised designs like em-
broidery-work on a plain ground. The said fabrics are made in plain white and
sometimes woven in colors, the white fabrics being dyed in plain colors if desired,
according to the usual methods.
Imitations of fabrics woven in colors have been produced by printing so as to
show white designs on a colored ground. This has been effected by applying the
color on the back of the material in the form of a thick paste so that it may
impregnate the ground, but not the raised or embroidered part, the fabric being
then dried and fixed in the usual way, for example by steaming
Up to the present however, it has not been found possible to produce woven
fabrics having embroidery-like designs colored on the raised portion, and the object
of the present invention is the production of such colored fabrics.
In carrying out this invention, a woven fabric is taken having thercon an em-
broidery-like design. This fabric should preferably be entirely white, and the
invention consists in applying to the raised design a different color to that of the
ground.
According to one way of effecting the invention, a resist is placed on the back
of the fabric, which is then dried, and then a new color is printed on the other
side, which is fixed in the usual manner, for example by steaming. As the resist
prevents the color from being fixed in the ground, only the embroidery-like or

page_text: raised parts of the fabric eventually become colored. By washing, the resist and
the unfixed color are removed, and a colored design is thus effectively obtained on
a white or plain ground.
The invention can also be carried out by the discharge process. In this case the
fabric is dyed with the color which it is eventually desired to obtain on the em-
broidery-like or raised portion; the back is then padded with the discharge, and
the fabric then passed through the discharging bath in the usual way, the result
being that the dye is discharged, except that upon the raised portions.
Having stated the nature of the invention, I will further illustrate it by giving
the following examples, but I premise that these can be varied in their details, and
that they are merely typical, illustrating the application of the invention to particu-
lar cases.
"

page_text: The material is mordanted with chrome, iron or aluminium mordants, the back
is padded with a discharging paste (thickened tartaric or citric acid), steamed for
1 to 2 minutes, or aged, passed through chalk and cowdung baths, and dyed with
alizarine colors.
EXAMPLE 10.
The material is dyed with direct azo colors, the back is padded with a thickened
tin salt discharge, followed by steaming and washing.
It is possible by this invention to start with a fabric previously dyed in any
single color, the effect being that the new colored designs are on a colored
.ground, but care must be taken that the coloring matter on the dyed fabric origi-
nally taken does not interfere with the action of the resist.
A more practical method of producing colored raised designs on colored
grounds is to incorporate in the resist a suitable coloring matter.
For example, the back of the fabric may be padded or printed with a tannin
color resist which contains substantive azo colors, and then dried. The right side
of the fabric is then printed or padded with tannin colors, dried, steamed and
washed; in this way colored raised designs are obtained on a colored ground.
The same effect can also be obtained by following Example 1 and incorporating
a coloring matter with the thickened acetate of lime. In this case a black raised
design is obtained on a colored ground.
In order to produce an embroidery-like woven material having thereon a raised
design of a different color or shade upon a plain or colored ground the following
process may be usefully employed:-There is padded or printed on the wrong
side of the cloth a resist of such strength or composition so that the resist does not
reach the raised design on the front of the fabric. The color or colors are then
applied to the face of the fabric and are fixed on the whole surface of the raised
design, whereas on the smooth part of the cloth the color shows only partially,
thus producing different shades.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of this inven-
tion, as communicated to me, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I
declare that what I claim is :-
1. As a new article of manufacture, an embroidery-like woven material wherein
the raised design is colored on the face of same, but not on the back, and the
ground is plain.
2. As a new article of manufacture, an embroidery-like woven material having
a raised design colored on the face of same but not on the back, and a colored
ground.
3. As a new article of manufacture, an embroidery-like woven material having
a raised design of a different color or shade upon a plain or colored ground, the
said colors or shades of color being imparted to the raised design subsequently
to weaving said fabric.
4. The process of producing embroidery-like woven materials wherein the raised
portion is colored, which process consists in applying a resist on the back of the
fabric, then applying a color on the other side, then fixing said color on the raised
portion and subsequently removing the resist and unfixed color.
5. The process of producing embroidery-like woven materials wherein the raised
portion is colored, which process consists in dyeing the fabric, then applying a
discharge to the back of same, and then discharging the color from the ground.
6. The process of producing embroidery-like woven materials wherein the raised
portion is colored and the ground is also colored, which process consists in apply-
ing to the back of the fabric a resist having incorporated therewith a suitable
coloring matter, in then applying an appropriate coloring matter to the front of

page_text: the fabric, fixing the color of the ground and that of the raised portions and
removing the resist and unfixed color.
7. In the process of producing embroidery-like woven materials having a raised
design of a different color or shade upon a plain or colored ground, padding the
back of the material with a resist of such composition and strength as to only
reserve a part of the color or colors which are applied to the front of the fabric.
Dated this 4th day of May 1898.
J. C. MEWBURN & ELLIS,
55 and 56, Chancery Lane, London, Chartered Patent Agents.