Improvements in Fur Sewing Machines.
Year: 1896

page_text: Date of Application, 11th Sept., 1896-Accepted, 14th Nov., 1896
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Fur Sewing Machines.
1, SELLMAR MAURICE JACOBY of No. 167 Wooster Street in the City and
County of New York in the State of New York, United States of America,
Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement :-
My invention relates to improvements in sewing machines, and is more particularly
adapted for use in sewing together pieces of fur.
The object of my invention is to provide a machine in which is utilized a
minimum number of parts for producing a certain series of motions to the needle
and the looper hook, the machine, as a whole, being comparatively noiseless and
easy running.
A further object is to cause the looper hook to describe a new path in forming
the stitches, whereby any tendency on the part of the hook to clash or interfere
with the needle, when the machine is running under high speed, is entirely
obviated.
A still further object is to so construct the machine, that a greater amount of
room is afforded the operator in inserting the pieces of fur to be stitched into
position.
A practical embodiment of my invention is represented in the accompanying
drawings, in which
Fig. 1 is a view of the machine in side elevation.
Fig. 2 is a view in vertical section from front to rear;
Fig. 3 is a transverse vertical section on the line 3-3 of Fig. 4;
Fig. 4 is a top plan view of the machine, with the cover of the casing
removed.
Fig. 5 is an enlarged detail. view of the mechanism for causing the laterally
Swinging movement of the looper hook; and
Figs. 6, 7, 8, and 9 are views, in detail, showing the position of the nee.lle and
looper hook in, four different positions during the formation of the stitch, the
parts of the thread which form the stitch being shown an exaggerated distance
apart, to more clearly follow its formation.
The bed of the machine is denoted by A, and it is surmounted by a casing A¹ of
generally oblong form, for the purpose of supporting and housing certain of the
operating parts of the machine. The main drive shaft is denoted by B, and it is
mounted in suitable bearings in the opposite sides of the casing A', its opposite
ends being provided with hand wheels h b', which also serve as balance wheels.
The opposite ends of the shaft B are further provided with drive pulleys b², for
receiving a suitable driving band from a source of power, not shown. The
shaft B carries three cams, denoted respectively by 63, 6, 66. The cams 63 and 6³
are utilized to impart to the looper hook, respectively, a longitudinally reciprocating
movement and a rocking movement, while the cam 6 is utilized to impart to the
needle its horizontally reciprocating movement.
The needle carrying bar is denoted by C, and it has fixed thereon a depending
bifurcated yoke or hanger, the branches of which are denoted by e c', and are so
arranged as to embrace the opposite sides of the needle operating cam 6. The
bar C which carries the needle, is mounted in suitable bearings in the casing A'.
The needle is denoted by c. The bar which carries the looper hook is denoted

page_text: by D, and is located, in the present instance, above the bar C, suitably supported
to permit of receiving a rocking motion on its own axis, a longitudinal movement,
and a rocking movement bodily, in a direction transverse to its longitudinal
axis.
The longitudinal reciprocating movement of the bar. D is imparted to it by
means of a yoke or hanger E provided with branches e el, which embrace the
opposite sides of the cam 6, the yoke or hanger E being itself fixed to a bar e',
in turn fixed to move with the looper hook bar D. The rocking movement is
imparted to the looper hook bar D in the following manner :-The bar D is providel
with a laterally extended arm, which is engaged at its end by a cam groove fin a
rocking plate F' secured to a lug f' on the casing A', at a point a short distance
over the main drive shaft B. The rocking plate Fi is provided with a short
arm f, to which is secured a collar 3, which embraces an excentric cam upon
the shaft B. It will be seen that as the shaft B is rotated, it will rock the plate F',
and the shape of the cam groove is such that it will rock the arm F on the looper
hook bar D. The rocking plate F is preferably made in two sections, the upper
section having part of the eam groove f-therein. This upper, portion
screwed into position, and may be renewed as the cam groove is worn away by its
contact with the head of the arm F.
is
The bodily movement of the bar D in the direction transverse to the longitudinal
axis, in the present instance, a swinging vertical movement, is imparted to it by
means of a laterally projected pin g, set in a bar G fixed to move bodily with the
looper hook bar D, the said pin g being guided by an open V-shaped slot h in a
bar H fixed to the upper portion of the casing A'.
The looper hook has its shank d fixed in the bar D, and bends downwardly
towards the path of the needle, terminating at the lower end in a foot or
hook d.
The material to be sewed is fed between the adjacent edges of a pair of feed
discs, denoted respectively by I, I, located with their upper faces in proximity to
the path in which the needle e reciprocates. The disc is fixed to a spindle K,
which is rotated by means of a clutch mechanism, commonly known in the art as
a "Howe clutch," loented in the present instance at the foot of the spindle K, as,
for example, at k, and operated by the vibrating lever L, fulcrummed at 4, and
operated by a fourth cam on the main drive shaft B.
The companion feed disc I is free to rotate by a friction imparted to it through
the material being operated upon, from the positively driven feed disc 1. The
feed disc I' is mounted upon a depending arm of the presser bar M. which presser
lar is connected to a vibrating lever N in the following manner :-The vibrating
lever N has uprising therefrom, between its pivot n and its free end n', a post n².
To the top of this post is adjustably secured the downwardly extended arm m of.
the presser bar M. From this downwardly extended arm m', the presser bar
extends outwardly, as shown at m², through an opening in the casing A', then
extends laterally, as shewn at m³, then upwardly, as shewn at w, to a point a
short distance above the discs I, I'; then forwardly, as shown at m³. The portion
which extends downwardly, denoted by m, and which supports the disc ', has
been hereinbefore mentioned.
The lever N is connected at its free end, by a rud a, with a foot treadle of any
well known or approved form, not shown, which, when pressure is exerted to lift
the lever, will force the disc I away from the dise 1. When pressure is released
from the lever, the disc 1 is thrown back into yielding engagement with the disc 1,
or with the material between the two dises, by means of a spring O, bearing at the
lower end on the free end of the lever N, and held at its upper end by a nut o on
the screw threaded end of a rod o' fixed at its upper end to the bracket a
projecting rearwardly from the casing A'. By screwing the nut o up and down
along the rod o', the tension which presses the disc towards the disc I may
be loosened or increased to the greatest degree of accuracy, as may be desired.
The thread, as it is led from the supply (see Fig. 1), passes through a suitable

page_text: tension device carried by the needle bar, whereby the thread is alternately
clamped and released, as it is fed to the needle for tightening the stitches.
In operation Supposing the parts to be in the position shown in Figs. 1 to 4
and Fig. 6; the needle is started on its rearward movement, thereby slackening-
the thread; the looper hook is caused to take a movement transverse to the path
of the needle, thereby taking up the loop formed by the rearward movement of the
needle. The looper hook is then caused to pass upwardly, then rearwardly, then.
downwardly, slightly towards the path of the needle. When the looper hook has
arrived at this position, the needle has been fully withdrawn, and now starts its
advance movement through the loop and the material being sewed. The looper-
hook then swings laterally away from the path of the needle, then back diagonally
across the path of the needle, at which time it sheds the loop; thence forwardly
and downwardly to the point of starting.
In Fig. 6, the looper hook and needle are shown in their first described position..
In Fig. 7, the needle is shown as part way in its rearward movement, and the
looper hook as having passed across the path of the needle, and engaged with
the loop.
In Fig. 8, the needle is shown in its position, just after it has advanced a short.
distance to pass through the loop, the looper hook being in its rearward and
downward position.
In Fig. 9, the needle is shown as partially advanced through the material, and
the looper hook shown in the position which it assumes furthest away from the
path of the needle, on the side of the needle, about to pass diagonally across.
the path of the needle, to shed the loop.
One of the benefits derived from the new arrangement here described for
causing the rocking movement of the looper hook bar, is that the hook may
be caused to swing quite a distance away from the path of the needle when
the hook starts on its return movement from its lowermost and rearmost position.
This will effectually prevent any tendency, when the parts are running at high
speed, on the part of the looper hook, to interfere or clash with the rapidly
reciprocating needle. Furthermore, it absolutely ensures the forming of a stitch,.
thereby obviating the tendency to skip a stitch, which is now prevalent when the
machine is driven at high speed.
It is evident that slight changes might be resorted to in the construction and
operation of the several parts berein described, without departing from the spirit
and scope of my invention; hence I do not wish to limit myself strictly to the
structure herein set forth.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is :-
A needle mounted to reciprocate, means for presenting the material to be sewed
across the path of the needle, a looper hook, means for causing the looper hook to
describe the outlines of an irregular figure in space, including a movement across
the path of the needle to take the loop, an upward, a backward, and then a
downward and slightly inward movement along one side of the needle path while
carrying the loop, and outward and upward movement away from the needle, a
diagonal movement across the needle's path, to shed the loop, and a forward and
then a downward movement along the opposite side of the needle's path, to the
point of starting, and means for actuating the needle, substantially as set forth.
Dated this 11th day of September 1896.
NEWTON & SON,
Agents for the Applicant.