IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FIGURED PILE FABRICS
Year: 1882

page_text: In the Matter of Letters Patent granted to Thomas Anderson of Liversedge
in the West Riding of the County of York for an Invention of
" IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FIGURED PILE FABRICS"
bearing date the 13th day of May in the year of our Lord 1882.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME I the said THOMAS
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME I the said THOMAS
ANDERSON Send Greeting
WHEREAS Her Majesty Queen Victoria by Her Letters Patent bearing date
the 13th day of May 1882 in the 45th year of Her reign did give and grant
unto me the said Thomas Anderson my executors administrators and assigns the
sole privilege of making using exercising and vending my invention of "IMPROVE-
PILE FABRICS within the United
Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands and the Isle of Man
for and during the term of 14 years thence next ensuing.
MENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FIGURED
"
And whereas in pursuance of a condition in the said Letters Patent contained I
the said Thomas Anderson did within six calendar months next after the date of
the said Letters Patent cause a Specification in writing under my hand and seal
purporting to particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said invention
and in what manner the same was to be performed to be filed in the great Seal
Patent Office on the 11th day of November 1882 And whereas since the date of
my said Letters Patent and of the filing of the said Specification in pursuance
thereof I have discovered that there is a clerical error therein, and I have been
advised that certain parts of my said Specification and claims are too wide and
indefinite and may be so construed as to appear to claim the application of my
invention to the manufacture of other figured piled fabrics (such as "cords")
whereas I intended to limit my claim to the manufacture of figured velvets and
velveteens only and not to other kinds of figured weft pile fabrics. Now therefore
with a view so to limit and define my said claim and to correct the said verbal or
clerical error in my said Specification I am desirous of disclaiming certain portions
of my said Specification and of altering and amending the said Specification and
claiming clauses in the manner following that is to say.

page_text: At the end of line 6 page 3 of the printed copy of my said Specification as
printed and published by Her Majestys Printers, after the word "fabrics " I add
the words "known as velvets or velveteens in contradistinction to cords."
And in line 12 of the same page of the said Specification before the words
"figured weft pile fabrics " I introduce the word "such."
pile " I
And at line 20 of the same page before the word "tie-up" I insert the words
"velvet or velveteen" and at line 47 on the same page before the word "
insert the words "velvet or velveteen"
"
And at line 8 page 4 of the said Specification I erase the word block" and
insert in lieu thereof the word "black"
And at line 17 page 4 of the said Specification after the words "weft pile" I
insert the words "velvet or velveteen
"
"
And in line 23 of the same page after the word "fabrics" I insert the words
"known as velvets or velveteens" and in the same line I erase the word "consist
and substitute therefor the word "consists" and at line 28 after the word
"fabrics "I insert the words "of the class above mentioned."
And at line 30 before the word "figured" I insert the word "such," and at the
end of such line I erase the words "for instance" and insert the word "namely"
in lieu thereof.
And I erase the words "or stepping in races and turning the points on an odd
number of ends" contained in lines 31. and 32 of the said page.
And at line 36 of the same page after the word "that" I insert the words "my
"invention is limited or confined to that class of figured weft pile fabrics known as
"velvets or velveteens (in contradistinction to cords) and that."
"
And in line 37. of the same page before the word "figured" I insert the word
"such
" and in line 41. after the word "claim I insert the words "in the
"manufacture of velvets or velveteens"
<<
5
And in lines 42 and 43 I erase the words " or stepping in races and turning the
points at top and bottom on an odd number of ends
"
>>
And at line 44 after the word "as" I erase the article "a" and after the word
new I insert the words "articles of" and I erase the word "fabric" and
substitute therefor the word "fabrics."
And at line 45 I erase the words "system" and "method" and I insert in lieu
thereof the words "systems" and "methods."
And at line 46 after the word "described "I substitute a comma for the full stop,
and add the words "and as above severally claimed."
And I do hereby declare that my said Specification when amended and altered
by me in the manner above indicated by this present Disclaimer and Memorandum
of Alteration will read as follows.
NOW KNOW YE that I the said Thomas Anderson Do hereby declare
the nature of the said Invention and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement.
This invention relates to the manufacture of that class of figured pile
fabrics known as velvets or velveteens in contradistinction to "cords,"
wherein the figured pile is formed from the weft threads, the object of the
invention being to facilitate the cutting of the pile, and to enable the knife to
pass with greater certainty from the "race" of one figure of weft pile to the
corresponding "race" of another figure of the same without liability to slip
out of the "race" "
or to trip or catch the edges
"
the
In designing a patterns for the manufacture of such figured weft pile fabrics
according to my invention the designs is arranged so as to step or move in
races at the edge of the figures. For example if a design is made with a
pile of seven float and one binding thread in which there is one race
every two warp threads in the cloth as in an ordinary E 1. velvet then as there
" for

page_text: is a
"race
"
for every two ends, the edge of the figure must step or move two
warp threads (or any multiple of two) each time.
"
The same system applies to any other weft pile velvet or velveteen
'tie-up" of course varying the stepping or moving of the edge of the pattern
according to the tie-up used. In a pile which has a race for every four warp
threads the pattern would step or move in fours and so on, the edge of the
design always stepping in "races." The advantage of this system is that it
facilitates the cutting as it enables the cutter's knife to enter the "race
(after passing over a portion of the ground) much more easily than on the
old plan on account of the small squares formed by stepping or moving in
races which act as guides for the point of the knife, and prevent it from
slipping out of the " race
,,
"
On the old plan the knife very frequently entered the wrong "race" after
crossing over a portion of the ground but this difficulty is overcome to a great
extent by my improvement.
Another point to be observed in designing the patterns according to my
invention is that in addition to stepping or moving in " races along the
edge of the patterns care must be taken to turn the points at the top and
bottom of each figure on an odd number of warp threads the exact number of
threads at the turning point depending of course on the shape of the figure or
pattern. The object of turning on an odd number of ends is that the
"will always be nearly at the centre of the small square or step. Were
the point of the pattern to be turned on an even number of ends it would
have a tendency to throw the knife out of the " race
« race
this
A
"
In addition to the above system of stepping in races at the edges of the
design and turning the points at top and bottom on an odd number of warp
threads I also throw all the short floats at the edges of the pattern to the back
of the cloth. For instance in a weft pile of seven float I throw all smaller
floats than five to the back of the cloth. Floats of four could be cut but I
find it much easier for cutting if there are no smaller floats on the surface
than five.
At the edges of the velvet or velveteen pile figures made on the old plan
there are always a large quantity of short floats which interfere with the
cutting as they have a tendency to throw the cutter's knife out of the race;
but according to my improved system as these short floats are thrown to the
back of the cloth the cutting is greatly facilitated.
Even with a seven float and one binder tie-up it would be rather easier
to cut if all floats of five could be dispensed with by throwing them to the
back of the cloth, and only leaving the full floats of seven; but by so doing
the pile would be robbed from the edge of the figure which would injure the
effect to a great extent.
In order to enable a weaver or other person skilled in the art of weaving
clearly to understand my invention I have annexed hereunto a diagram or
weaver's draft of part of a pattern designed on my improved system, the class
of velvet chosen for illustration being an ordinary E 1. cloth with a float of
seven threads and one binder.
The black crosses denote where the warp is lifted. No 1. 6. 11. 16 or every
fifth pick are plain ground picks. The races are on every even end or warp
thread that is two, four, six and so on: The edges of the pattern will be seen
always to step in races, that is in twos or in fours or other multiple of two;
and all short floats less than five ends are carried to the back.
For the turning point of a figure (in this case turning upon five ends) see
N° 7. pick and Nos 21. 22. 23. 24 and 25 ends.
I have only thought it necessary to give an illustration of one kind of weft
pile "tie-up" but the same system applies to any weft pile velvet or velveteen

page_text: tie-up" of course varying the stepping or moving of the pattern at the edges
in designing according to the "tie-up" used.
In a pile which has a race for every three warp threads the pattern would
step or move in threes; and in a pile which has a race for every four warp
threads the pattern would step or move in fours and so on
«
It will be seen from the foregoing statement that my improved system of
manufacture of figured weft pile fabrics known as velvets or velveteens
consists in the combination of three elements or principles, namely stepping in
"
races at the edges of the pattern, turning the points of the pattern at top
and bottom on an odd number of ends and throwing the short floats to the
back of the cloth. These three principles combined will be found so greatly
to facilitate the cutting, that figured weft pile fabrics of the class above
mentioned woven on this system may be cut almost as easily as plain velvets,
but I wish it to be understood that I also reserve to myself the right to
manufacture such figured weft pile fabrics by the combination of two of these
elements namely stepping in races and throwing the short floats to the back;
but I consider that the triple combination is more effective.
Having now described the nature and object of my said Invention together
with the manner in which the same is to be or may be performed or carried
into practical effect I wish it to be understood that my invention is limited or
confined to that class of figured weft pile fabrics known as velvets or velveteens
(in contradistinction to "cords ") and that I claim
First. The combination in the manufacture of such figured weft pile fabrics
of the three elements or principles above specified, namely, stepping in races
at the edges of the pattern, turning the points of the pattern at the top and
bottom on an odd number of ends and throwing the short floats to the back of
the cloth.
Secondly I claim in the manufacture of velvets or velveteens the combination
of two of these elements, that is, stepping in races and throwing the short
floats to the back, and
Thirdly I claim as new articles of manufacture the figured weft pile fabrics
woven according to the combined systems or methods of manufacture herein-
before particularly set forth and described, and as above severally claimed.
In witness whereof I the said Thomas Anderson have hereunto set my hand
1 seal this Third day of August in the year of our Lord One thousand eight
adred and eighty three
I hereby grant my Fiat giving leave to the above named Thomas Anderson
to file in the Office of the Commissioners of Patents with the Specification to
which the same relates the above written Disclaimer and Memorandum of
Alteration.
Dated this ninth day of Auenot 7882

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Thomas Anderson of Liversedge in the West Riding of
the County of York for an invention of IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANU-
FACTURE OF FIGURED PILE FABRICS
"
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Thomas Anderson at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 13th May 1882.
THOMAS ANDERSON of Liversedge in the West Riding of the County of York
IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FIGURED PILE FABRICS
,,
This invention relates to the manufacture of that class of figured pile fabrics
wherein the figured pile is formed from the weft threads, the object of the
invention being to facilitate the cutting of the pile, and to enable the knife to
"
race
pass with greater certainty from the
of one figure of weft pile to the
corresponding "race" of another figure of the same without liability to slip out of
the race or to trip or catch the edges.
"
In designing the patterns for the manufacture of figured weft pile fabrics
according to my invention the design is arranged so as to step or move in "
at the edge of the figures.
<<
races
For example, if a design is made with a pile of seven float and one binding
thread, in which there is one race " for every two warp threads in the cloth;
then, as there is a "race" for every two ends the edge of the figure must step or
move two warp threads (or any multiple of two) each time.
The same system applies to any other weft pile "tie up," of course varying the
stepping or moving of the edge of the pattern according to the "tie-up" used.
In a pile which has a race for every four warp threads the pattern would step
or move in fours, and so on, the edge of the design always stepping in "races"
The advantage of this system is that it facilitates the cutting, as it enables the
cutter's knife to enter the " race " (after passing over a portion of the ground)
much more easily than on the old plan, on account of the small squares formed by
stepping or moving in races, which act as guides for the point of the knife, and
prevent it from slipping out of the
" race.

page_text: 66
race
"after
On the old plan the knife very frequently entered the wrong
crossing over a portion of the ground, but this difficulty is overcome to a great
extent by my improvements
Another point to be observed in designing the patterns according to my
invention is that, in addition to stepping or moving in "races" along the edge of
the patterns, care must be taken to turn the points at the top and bottom of each
figure on an odd number of warp threads, the exact number of threads at the
turning point depending of course on the shape of the figure or pattern.
The object of this turning on an odd number of ends is that the "race" will
always be nearer the centre of the small square or step. Were the point of the
pattern to be turned on an even number of ends it would have a tendency to throw
the knife out of the "race."
In addition to the above system of stepping in races at the edges of the design,
and turning the points at top and bottom on an odd number of warp threads, I
also throw all the short floats at the edges of the pattern to the back of the cloth.
For instance in a weft pile of seven float I throw all smaller floats than five to
the back of the cloth. Floats of four could be cut, but I find it much easier for
cutting if there are no smaller floats on the surface than five.
At the edges of the pile figures made on the old plan there are always a large
quantity of short floats which interfere with the cutting, as they have a tendency
to throw the cutters knife out of the race; but according to my improved system
as these short floats are thrown to the back of the cloth, the cutting is greatly
facilitated.
Even with a seven float and one binder "tie-up" it would be rather easier to
cut if all floats of five could be dispensed with, by throwing them to the back of
the cloth, and only leaving the full floats of seven; but by so doing the pile would
be robbed from the edge of the figure which would injure the effect to a great
extent.
"
It will be seen from the foregoing statement that my improved system of
manufacture of figured weft pile fabrics consists in the combination of three
elements or principles, namely, stepping in "races at the edges of the pattern,
turning the points of the pattern at top and bottom on an add number of ends,
and throwing the short floats to the back of the cloth. These three principles
combined will be found so greatly to facilitate the cutting that figured weft pile
fabrics woven on this system may be cut almost as easily as plain velvets, but I
wish it to be understood that I also reserve to myself the right to manufacture
figured weft pile fabrics by the combination of two of these elements, for instance
stepping in races and throwing the short floats to the back; or stepping in races
and turning the points on an odd number of ends but I consider that the tripple
combination is more effective.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed
by the said Thomas Anderson in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
11th November 1882.
THOMAS ANDERSON of Liversedge in the West Riding of the County of York.
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FIGURED PILE FABRICS
"
This invention relates to the manufacture of that class of figured pile fabrics
wherein the figured pile is formed from the weft threads, the object of the
invention being to facilitate the cutting of the pile, and to enable the knife to
pass with greater certainty from the "race " of one figure of weft pile to the
corresponding "race of another figure of the same without liability to slip out of
the "race or to trip or catch the edges.
"
"
33
In designing the patterns for the manufacture of figured weft pile fabrics
according to my invention the design is arranged so as to step or move in "races
at the edge of the figures.
"
For example if a design is made with a pile of seven float and one binding
thread in which there is one "race for
threads in the cloth as in
every two warp
an ordinary E 1. velvet then as there is a "race" for every two ends, the edge of
the figure must step or move two warp threads (or any multiple of two) each
time.
The
The same system applies to any other weft pile "tie-up "of course varying the
stepping or moving of the edge of the pattern according to the tie-up used. In a
pile which has a race for every four warp threads the pattern would step or move
in fours, and so on the edge of the design always stepping in "races."
advantage of this system is that it facilitates the cutting as it enables the cutters
knife to enter the "race" (after passing over a portion of the ground) much more
easily than on the old plan on account of the small squares, formed by stepping or
moving in races which act as guides for the point of the knife, and prevent it
from slipping out of the "race."
On the old plan the knife very frequently entered the
"race" after
wrong
crossing over a portion of the ground but this difficulty is overcome to a great
extent, by my improvement
<<
"
Another point to be observed in designing the patterns according to my
invention is that in addition to stepping or moving in races along the edge of
the patterns, care must be taken to turn the points at the top and bottom of each
figure on an odd number of warp threads the exact number of threads at the
turning point depending of course on the shape of the figure or pattern.
The object of this turning on an odd number of ends is that the "
always be nearly at the centre of the small square or step.
Were the point of the pattern to be turned on an even number of ends it would
have a tendency to throw the knife out of the "race."
race
"will
In addition to the above system of stepping in races at the edges of the design
and turning the points at top and bottom on an odd number of warp threads I
also throw all the short floats at the edges of the pattern to the back of the cloth.
For instance, in a weft pile of seven float I throw all smaller floats than five to the
back of the cloth. Floats of four could be cut but I find it much easier for cutting
if there are no smaller floats on the surface than five.
At the edges of the pile figures made on the old plan there are always a large
quantity of short floats which interfere with the cutting, as they have a tendency
to throw the cutters knife out of the race; but according to my improved system
as these short floats are thrown to the back of the cloth, the cutting is greatly
facilitated.
Even with a seven float and one binder "tie-up" it would be rather easier to
cut if all floats of five could be dispensed with by throwing them to the back of
the cloth, and only leaving the full floats of seven; but by so doing the pile would

page_text: be robbed from the edge of the figure, which would injure the effect to a great
extent.
In order to enable a weaver or other person skilled in the art of weaving clearly
to understand my invention I have annexed hereunto a diagram or weavers draft
of part of a pattern designed on my improved system, the class of velvet chosen
for illustration being an ordinary El cloth with a float of seven threads and one
binder.
The block crosses denote where the warp is lifted.
Nos. 1. 6. 11. 16. or every fifth pick are plain ground picks. The races are on
every even end or warp thread, that is two, four, six and so on.
The edges of the pattern will be seen always to step in races, that is in twos or
in fours, or other multiple of two; and all short floats less than five ends are
carried to the back.
For the turning point of a figure (in this case turning upon five ends) see No. 7
pick and Nos. 21. 22. 23. 24. and 25 ends.
I have only thought it necessary to give an illustration of one kind of weft pile
"tie up" but the same system applies to any weft pile "tie up" of course varying
the stepping or moving of the pattern at the edges in designing according to the
"tie-up" used. In a pile which has a race for every three warp threads the
pattern would step or move in threes; and in a pile which has a race for every
four warp threads the pattern would step or move in fours and so on.
"
It will be seen from the foregoing statement that my improved system of
manufacture of figured weft pile fabrics consist in the combination of three
elements or principles, namely stepping in " races at the edges of the pattern,
turning the points of the pattern at top and bottom on an odd number of ends,
and throwing the short floats to the back of the cloth. These three principles
combined will be found so greatly to facilitate the cutting, that figured weft pile
fabrics woven on this system may be cut almost as easily as plain velvets, but I
wish it to be understood that I also reserve to myself the right to manufacture
figured weft pile fabrics by the combination of two of these elements, for instance
stepping in races and throwing the short floats to the back; or stepping in “races
and turning the points on an odd number of ends but I consider that the triple
combination is more effective.
"
Having now described the nature and object of my said Invention together
with the manner in which the same is to be or may be performed or carried into
practical effect I wish it to be understood that I claim
First. The combination in the manufacture of figured weft pile fabrics of the
three elements or principles above specified, namely stepping in races at the edges
of the pattern, turning the points of the pattern at the top and bottom on an odd
number of ends, and throwing the short floats to the back of the cloth.
Secondly I claim the combination of two of these elements that is, stepping in
races and throwing the short floats to the back, or stepping in races and turning
the points at top and bottom on an odd number of ends, and
Thirdly I claim as a new manufacture the figured weft pile fabric woven
according to the combined system or method of manufacture hereinbefore parti-
cularly set forth and described.
In witness whereof I the said Thomas Anderson have hereunto set my hand
and seal this Ninth day of November in the year of our Lord One thousand
eight hundred and Eighty two