IMPROVEMENTS IN EMBROIDERING MACHINES
Year: 1883

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Raphael Hunter Brandon of No 1 Rue Laffitte, Paris; in
the Republic of France, Engineer and Patent Agent, for an Invention of
"IMPROVEMENTS IN EMBROIDERING MACHINES communicated to him by
John Becker, of the City of Boston, County of Suffolk, and State of
Massachusetts, United States of America
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION filed by the said Raphael Hunter Brandon at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 17th July 1883.
RAPHAEL HUNTER BRANDON of N° 1 rue Laffitte, Paris, in the Republic of
France, engineer and patent agent. IMPROVEMENTS IN EMBROIDERING MACHINES;
communicated to me by John Becker, of the City of Boston, County of Suffolk,
and State of Massachusetts United States of America
This invention has for its object the production of an organized mechanism or
apparatus for attachment or addition to an embroidering or sewing machine of
any usual construction having a universal feeding device to move the fabric or
material in any desired direction, whereby the said feeding device may be
automatically moved to feed the material in a circle of greater or less radius, or to
só move the said material as to enable the needle to produce on the fabric
with its thread, lines of stitches varying more or less from a true circle or from a
straight line.
In this invention, I employ an actuating gear which acts directly or indirectly to
rotate the universal feeding device, and I have provided a pattern plate to move
this gear, so that it imparts a more or less irregular motion to the said actuating
gear and to the universal feeding device moved by it, whereby the fabric or
material is moved in a more or less irregular line for the automatic production upon
it, by the needle thread, of a figure .such as is demanded by the shape of the
pattern plate employed, thus relieving the operator of the machine from all care
in feeding or directing the material, yet enabling the exact reproduction
continuously of any desired figure.
This invention consists in a needle bar, universal feed device, a pinion, and
toothed actuating gear suitably connected therewith to move it, combined with a
ΓΗ

page_text: rotary pattern plate and suitable intermediate connections to enable the said gear
to be rotated and to be reciprocated, substantially as hereinafter described.
Also, in an attachment for automatically operating the universal feeding device of
an embroidering or sewing machine, the toothed actuating wheel and pattern carrying
arm, combined with a pattern plate having a planetary movement, as will be
described
Also, in a pattern carrying arm, stud gear having pinion, and the main gear,
combined with the intermediate, and. pattern plate having a planetary movement,
as will be described.
Also in a pattern carrying arm, stud gear baving pinions, and the main gear,
combined with the intermediate, stationary track, and pattern plate having a
planetary movement, as will be described.
Also in a main gear, an intermediate, stud gear having pinions, and the
stationary track, combined with the pattern carrying arm, adjustable collar,
thereon, carrying the shaft of the spur gear, as will be described.
Also, in a pattern carrying arm, the stud gear having pinions, the main gear, the
intermediate, stationary track, and actuating wheel, combined with the rotating
pattern plate and a finger or projection carried by the actuating gear to be acted
upon by the said pattern plate to reciprocate the actuating gear, and through it
effect the feeding movement of the material in the desired direction, as will be
described.
Also, in an actuating gear, rotating pattern plate, stud gear on which it is
mounted, arm, an intermediate and main gear, to rotate it, combined with the
shaft and means to turn the latter in one or the opposite direction at will when it
is desired to reverse the figure to be produced on the fabric being embroidered as
hereinafter set forth.
Also, in an actuating gear, rotating pattern plate, stud gear on which it is
mounted, the intermediate, and main gear to rotate it, combined with the shaft,
and means to rotate the said shaft at different speeds with relation to the
established speed of the main shaft of the machine, as hereinafter set forth.
Also, in an actuating gear, the tool post made movable with it, and the finger,
combined with the rotating pattern plate and means to keep the finger against the
pattern plate, as will be described.
Also in a universal feeding device, and needle bar, pinion, moving in unison with
them, the intermediate gear, arm, and stud gear, stationary track, and plate,
combined with a marking or tracing tool to mark or trace the said plate while the
feeding device is being turned by or through the shaft as usual, to thus outline the
form of the cam suitable to enable the automatic reproduction of the figure made
while attaching the feeding device by hand, as will be described.
In an attachment for automatically operating a universal feeding device, the
pattern carrying arm, means to move it continuously in one direction at a uniform
speed, a pattern plate mounted on an axis to travel with the pattern carrying arm,
and means to rotate the said pattern plate, combined with the actuating gear
having its speed of movement made variable by deviation of the pattern plate
from a true circle to thus enable the universal feeding device to move the fabric or
material in suitable directions, for the production, by the needle and its thread, of
irregular figures, as will be described.
Also, in a main pinion, the pattern plate, and intermediate gearing to rotate the
said plate, combined with the actuating gear and finger made movable with the
said actuating gear and held against the pattern plate, as will be described.
Also, that improvement in the art or method of producing pattern plates for
embroidery machines, which consists in automatically working or tracing on a
revolving plate an outline for a figure while the feed of the fabric is being
effected by hand and then shaping the said plate, according to the said outline as
will be described.
Figure 1, represents in side elevation a sufficient portion of an embroidering
machine of usual construction with my apparatus added, to illustrate my

page_text: invention;-Figure 2, a top or plan view of figure 1;-Figure 3, a top view of a
part of my apparatus sufficient in connection with the parts shown in figure 2;
to enable one to understand the method of producing a pattern plate to be applied
to the apparatus to effect the movement of the universal feeding device in definite
directions according to the figure desired to be produced upon the material by the
thread being employed;-Figure 4, a detail of part of figure 3;-Figure 5,
represents the figure which will be produced when a pattern disk such as shown
in figure 2, is employed;-Figure 6, represents in top view an apparatus with a
different pattern disk;-Figure 7, a side clevation of figure 6;-Figure 8,
represents the figure which will be produced upon the material when the pattern
disk shown in figure is employed; Figure 9, is a top view of my apparatus
showing yet another form of pattern disk ;-Figure 10, a top view of figure 9,
and Figure 11, represents the figure which will be produced when the pattern disk
shown in figure 9 is employed;-Figure 12, sections of figure 1, on the dotted
line X X, and X';-Figure 13, is a detail showing the eccentric stud As, and a
section thereof on the dotted line X-Figure 14, a detail of the eccentric
stud a², and bearing B2;-Figure 15, a detail showing the stud gear and pinion at
its ends.
In the drawings the letters of reference A, Z, R, D, W, L, G¹, H, d, e, n, m, represent
parts of the well known Bonnaz embroidering machine to which my apparatus to
be described is attached; the needle bar A, and the universal feeding device or
foot e, will be operated as usual, and it will be also understood that the said
machine will in practice have, as part of it the hand crank located under the bed
plate and common to the said Bonnaz machine, by which to turn the universal
feeding device and needle bar in either direction; the stitching devices and
universal feeding mechanism being well known and common, need not be herein.
further described.
In this invention, I apply to the usual needle bar A, a long pinion A¹. Upon
the arm A, of the said Bonnaz machine, I place my attachment, the foot plate A³,
of which is held in place on the said arm by a suitable dog A4, having a clamping.
screw A. Upon the foot plate A³, I place the frame work Aº of the attachment,
and to connect the foot and frame work together, so that the frame may be
adjusted longitudinally, the upper side of the foot is provided with a rib as shown
in the section figure 12, which cooperates with the underside of the frame work A
of suitable shape to fit.
The frame work A is slotted at its front end to receive the guiding stud A7,
and at its rear end the frame work is provided with an eccentric stud A³,
shown separately in figure 13, and having a handle A by which it may bo;
turned.
The lower or eccentric portion of the stud A³, enters and fits between the walls
of a slot a, in the foot A³, see detail figure 13, and as the said stud, held in the
frame work A by the screw A° entering an annular groove therein, is turned by
the handle A', the frame work may be moved backward and forward upon the said
foot plate, so as to ensure the engagement of the intermediate gear B with the long
pinion A' on the needle bar.
The frame work A6 has bearings B1, B2, for the shaft B³, having upon one end of
it the set of cone pulleys B4, driven by a belt B5 which will extend from a corre-
sponding but reversely placed set of cone pulleys, not shown, but placed on the
shaft of the usual fly wheel of the driving or treadle stand, the latter set of cones
being located just between the stand and the inner side of the said fly wheel, the
transfer of the belt B³, from one to the other of the grooves of the said cone pulleys
operating in well known manner to vary the speed of the shaft B³, with relation
to the speed of the driver shaft of the stand, the shaft to which the lower set of
cones referred to is secured.
The forward end of the shaft B³, is provided with a bevel gear B6 which is
adapted to be engaged at will with either of the bevel gears B7 or B³, fast on the
main shaft B, of my apparatus. To enable the gear B³ to be engaged with either

page_text: of the said gears B7 or B8, at will so as to rotate the shaft B, in either direction I
have made the bearings. B1, B2, of the shaft B³, so as to permit the said shaft to rise
and fall somewhat at its front end: The bearing B' may be, made globular or ball
like if desired; and the bearing B2 has entered-into it at one side a pin or eccentric
part d², see detail figure 14, forming part of an eccentric stud a³, held against
longitudinal movement by a screw a, which enters an annular groove in the said
stud..
3
Upon the top of the frame work A is attached a stationary circular toothed
track a³.
Upon the shaft Bº, just above this stationary track is placed loosely the actuating
gear 'C for turning the needle bar, needle, and universal feed continuously in one
direction or backward and forward, or rather for imparting to the said needle bar
and feed a continuous rotary motion or à rotary reciprocating motion. Placed
loosely upon shaft B, above the actuating gear C is the pattern carrying arm c
and to the latter is attached, preferably in an adjustable manner, by screw a³, a
plate.c²
The upper end of shaft Bº, is made to extend above this plate C², and has attached
to it the main pinion a', the said pinion being herein shown as forming part of the
said shaft. The plate C, has an intermediate C³, attached to it in an adjustable
manner by the screw C and the said'intermediate gear drives the stud gear C5, shown
separately in fig: 15, said stud gear having at its ends pinions b, b'. The stud gear C³,
has its bearing in an adjustable collar C attached to the pattern carrying arm C¹ by a
screw b², extended through' a 'slot b³, in the said arm, see figures 2, and 6, and
screwed into a bottom plate C7 shown'clearly in figure 1.
.
The adjustment of the collar Coupon 'the arm C₁ permits the pinion 61 of the stud
gear to engage the teeth of the stationary track a³, as in.figures 1 and 2, or to be
disengaged from the said track as it will be when the pattern plate représented in
figures 9 and 10, is employed as will be hereinafter described.
The pattern plate d''shaped as represented in figure 2, to produce the figure
represented in figure 5, is attached to the pinion 6 of the stud gear C5 by a
screw '63
As shown in the drawing figure 1, the pattern plate D₁ has a hub D2, attached
to its under side by the set screw 'b, the said hub fitting over the end of the
gear b.
The intermediate gear C³ driven by the main pinion a7, drives the stud gear C³, so
that its lower pinion bin engagement with the stationary track a³, is caused to
travel around the said track and move the stud gear C and the pattern carrying
arm C, and during this movement of the arm the rotation of the stud gear on its
axis will, it is obvious, cause the pattern plate D to be rotated in unison with the
said stud gear C³.
The actuating gear C referred to, has a socket D³, adjustably attached to it by a
set screw bb, and the said socket split at one side as shown in figure 6, has a binding
screw be, by which to tighten the said socket to properly hold in adjusted position
a tool post D provided with a finger D5, adjustably attached to the said post by a
set screw Dº.
The socket D³, and tool post and finger are so adjusted that the end of the said
finger bears against the periphery of the pattern plate being used and the said
finger is maintained in contact with the said pattern plate by a suitable spring
herein shown as a spiral spring b connecting the arm C' and the actuating gear C.
With a pattern plate such as represented in figures 1 and 2, the intermediate
gear.B being in engagement with the pinion A' on the needle bar A, the shaft B³
may be started and the gear B, BS, a', will drive the intermediate gear C³, and as
before described, will turn the pattern plate on its axis while the said pattern is
moved in a circular path about the stationary track, and the said pattern plate 'D',
thus having a planetary motion, I shall hereinafter designate it as a planetary
pattern plate.
$
The finger D being held against the planetary pattern plate by the spring b

page_text: will cause the actuating gear C to follow the said pattern plate as it moves in a
circle about the axis of shaft B, but owing to the cam shaped or irregular periphery.
of the planetary pattern plate, it is obvious, that the actuating gear C will have an
intermitting or reciprocating movement during its said rotation about the shaft B³,
the extent and frequency of the said reciprocating movement depending, it will be
understood, upon the shape of the pattern plate, or in other words the shape of the
cam and its speed of rotation is such as compared with the speed of rotation of the
planetary arm, that one counteracts the other and practically results in temporarily
keeping the actuating gear C at rest.
With a cam such as shown in figure 2, the straightest parts of the figure in
figure 5, are produced when the gear Cis substantially at rest, and the curved parts
when the finger D³ is moving towards the center of the pattern plate.
When a pattern plate such as shown in figure 2, is used to make a figure, such as
represented in figure 9, the needle, bar or the universal feed is not actually turned
except in one direction, but the speed at which it is turned in that one direction is
made variable.
It will be understood that the gear C would travel forward at a speed depending
upon the speed of shaft B³, if left to follow the planetary arm, and the pattern
plate did not rotate, but as the pattern plate also rotates, it will be seen that it, by
acting on the finger D' carried by the gear C and held pressed against the said
plate by a spring, will move the said gear C backward in opposition to the forward
movement just stated, which will act to retard or completely check the forward
movement of the gear C, and with a pattern plate of proper shape the forward
movement of the gear C may be overcome or reversed to the extent of the length of
the space w cut out of the said gear as in Figures 2 and 6.
When the backward movement of gear C by the pattern plate is equal to the
forward movement of gear C by shaft B³; it will be seen 'that practically the gear C
will stand still, but if the finger D³ rests on a portion of the pattern plate which
is the arc of a true circle described from the spur gear, then the forward. movement
of the gear C will be depended entirely upon the speed of shaft B³, and a figure
represented by a true circle would be formed on the material by the thread.
To produce irregular curves, it is necessary to make the movement of the gear C
variable, or fast and slow at intervals, and this may be done just in the proportion
that the speed of the gear C derived from shaft B³, is permitted to exceed the
movement of the said gear in the reverse direction derived from the particular
shape of the pattern plate.
The variation in speed of the gear C and of the universal feed is in proportion to
the deviation of the pattern surface from a true circle.
The actuating gear C having imparted to it a progressive but reciprocating
movement during its rotation, will, it is obvious, turn the intermediate gear B,
needle bar and universal feed mechanism in like manner, enabling the said feed to
move the material upon which it rests in the proper direction so that the usual
needle will loop the thread delivered to it, always in the proper line to produce on
the material a line of stitches in strict accordance with the requirements of the pattern
plate, thus entirely relieving the operator of the machine from any care as to the
feeding of the material.
In order to produce a set figure, such for instance as shown in figure 8, the said
figure always having a fixed number of loops or curves, and then being repeated,
it is necessary that the teeth of the stud gear C³ be always a multiple of the teeth
of the intermediate C³, so that the complete figure will be produced during each
complete revolution of the pattern plate about its own axis.
To illustrate, Figure 8, contains nine loops in nine different positions, six in the
main part of the figure, and three in the stem, the central loop of the stem being a
very small sharp loop, therefore the pattern plate D¹, see figure 6, it being of the
proper shape to produce the figure shown in Figure 8, must be so geared with and
driven by the main pinion a7, as to rotate once while the said main pinion rotates
nine times, thus enabling the pattern plate to reciprocate the actuating gear, as it

page_text: is being revolved so that it will turn the needle bar and feed, to automatically
move the material under the feeding device, in the direction required by the pattern
to produce the said figure.
In figure 8, I have marked the loops 1 to 9.
In figure 6, the pattern plate D', is attached directly to the intermediate
gear C³. It will be understood that the shape of the planetary pattern plate
may be varied at pleasure according to the figure to be produced by the needle
thread on the fabric or material.
"
To increase or decrease the number of stitches in each loop or repeat of a figure
to be produced, it is only necessary to alter the speed of the shaft B³, as before
stated, as for instance the faster the speed of the shaft B³, with relation to the
speed of the usual stitching parts the less the number of stitches in each loop or
repeat of the figure and vice-versa.
In figures 9 and 10, I have shown another modification of my apparatus or
attachment adapted to produce the figure represented in figure 11, or a figure
produced by giving to the cloth or material a movement sufficient to produce a
certain number of stitches in one and then in another direction.
In this modification the actuating gear C has only a movement of reciprocation,
and never makes a complete rotation, as in the plan previously described, and the
pattern carrying arm C₁ is made stationary, it being secured to the stationary track
by the screw c extended through the plate c², and a hub c¹ placed between it
and the stationary track, the said hub extending down through and opening in
the actuating gear C.
In this modification the pattern plate D' is secured to the stud gear C³, and the
collar C is so adjusted on the arm.C' as to disengage the pinion b₁ from the
stationary track a³, so that the stud gear may be rotated by the intermediate
gear C3, when the arm C¹ is fastened as stated.
In this modification the pattern plate has only a movement of rotation about its
own axis, the stud gear, and the actuating gear C is reciprocated by the action of
the said pattern plate on the finger D³.
Instead of securing the pattern plate upon the stud gear as in Figures 9 and 10,
I may if desired attach a pattern plate to the intermediate gear C³, as in the
modification represented in Figure 6, such position of pattern plate enabling the
production of more complex and intricate figures.
I do not limit this invention to the employment of an intermediate gear C³, of
any particular size as intermediate gears of different sizes may be employed
according to the pattern desired to be produced.
Assuming that the figure delineated in figure S, was produced while the bevel
gear B was in engagement with the bevel gear B³, and I should desire to reverse
the figure, it is only necessary to engage the bevel gear B with the bevel gear B7,
to reverse the direction of movement of the apparatus.
To automatically effect the reversal of the parts of the apparatus to reverse the
figure being formed, I may attach a series of tappets d², in an adjustable manner
upon the actuating gear C and provide the eccentric stud a³, with one or more
suitable fingers or arms d³, to be struck by the said tappets, the turning of the
eccentric stud moving the gear B6 into engagement with one and then with the
other of the gears B7, B8.
Referring to figure 10, let it be supposed that the pin d², at the right is about to
strike the arm d³, to throw B, into engagement with Bs.
Such movement will result in changing the direction of rotation of all the parts i
and of the gear C, so that as soon as the pin d², at the left of figure 10, arrives
at d³, it will turn it back in the opposite direction.
In the drawings, I have shown a variety of pattern plates for producing different
figures.
The method of producing these pattern plates is an important feature of my 5
invention. It being desired to produce a certain figure in thread or silk upon the
material by the usual needle, the operator will turn the universal feed by means of

page_text: the usual crank handle represented below the bed plate in figures 1 and 2, of, the
said Bonnaz machine taking care that the figure is made as perfectly as possible.
Before starting however to produce the figure desired a plain metal or stiff
plate e will be attached to either the stud gear or the intermediate C³, and the tool
post will be provided with an arm e³, instead of the finger D³.
The arm e³, at its front end is provided with an adjustable marker or pointer e',
to work or trace a line upon the plate e², as the lattér is rotated under the said
marker or tracer, as in Figure 3.
In figure 3, it will be assumed that the operator has turned the universal feed by
the usual hand crank during which time the needle bar is also turned and the latter
by the gear A¹ thereon turns the intermediate gear B and the latter drives the
actuating wheel C and its parts to rotate the plate e². The plate e² having been
marked or traced, all that part of it outside the line traced or marked thereon will
be completely cut away or removed, thus forming a pattern plate which employed
as herein described of the pattern plates D' will enable the automatic production
upon the material of a figure like the one just produced by the manipulation of the
machine by the operator, and any number of the said figures may be produced
rapidly and correctly without further care by the operator.
I have provided the head of the machine with a stationary guide or support d*
for the needle bar A, as in figure 1, so as to insure the proper engagement of the
pinion A¹ and intermediate gear B. The belt E on the belt wheel Ĕ¹ is extended
about the larger belt wheel of the treadle mechanism. It is obvious that the
apparatus herein described as of my invention may be employed to rotate or impart
a rotary reciprocating movement to any universal feed by properly connecting the
gear C therewith. I desire it to be understood that the intermediate gear B, is not
essential, but may be omitted and the gear C directly engage pinion A' without
departing from this invention.
By adjusting the tool post and finger and placing the end of the finger in contact
with the periphery of the pattern plate more or less out of a straight line drawn
through the stud gear and the center motion of the tool-post, the figure to bo
produced on the material by the needle and thread may be more or less contracted
or expanded.
Having described this attachment as added to a Bonnaz machine, I desire it to
be understood that it may be added to other well known sewing machines having.a
universal feed
1. The needle bar, universal feed device, a pinion A', and toothed actuating gear
suitably connected therewith to move it, combined with a rotary pattern plate and
suitable intermediate connections to enable the said gear to be rotated and to be
reciprocated, substantially as described.
2. In an attachment for automatically operating the universal feeding device of
an embroidering or sewing machine, the toothed actuating gear, wheel and pattern
carrying arm, combined with a pattern plate having a planetary movement,
substantially as described.
3. The pattern carrying arm, stud gear having pinion 6, and the main gear a²,
combined with the intermediate gear C³, and pattern plate, having a planetary
movement, substantially as described.
4. The pattern carrying arm, stud gear having pinions 6, 61, and the main gear a³,
combined with the intermediate gear C³, stationary track, and pattern plate having
a planetary movement substantially as described.
and
5. The main gear a7, the intermediate gear C³, stud gear having pinions b; b¹,
the stationary track, combined with the pattern carrying arm, adjustable collar C6,
thereon carrying the shaft of the spur gear, substantially as described.
6. The pattern carrying arm, the stud gear having pinions 6 b¹, the main gear a',

page_text: .
the intermediate gear C³, stationary track, and actuating wheel C, combined with
the rotating pattern plate and a finger or projection carried by the actuating gear
to be acted upon by the said pattern plate to reciprocate the actuating gear C and
through it effect the feeding movement of the material in the desired direction,
substantially as described.
7. The actuating gear C, rotating pattern plate, stud gear on which it is mounted,
arm C¹ tlie intermediate gear C³, and main gear a', to rotate it, combined with the
shaft B, and means to turn the latter in one or the opposite direction at will when
it is desired to reverse the figure to be produced on the fabric being embroidered,
substantially as set forth.
8. The actuating gear C, rotating pattern plate, stud gear on which it is
mounted, arm C', the intermediate gear C³, and main gear a², to rotate it, combined
with the shaft B, and means to rotate the said shaft at different speeds with
relation to the established speed of the main shaft D of the machine, substantially
as and for the purpose set forth.
9. The actuating gear C, the tool post made movable with it, and the finger,
combined with the rotating pattern plate and means to keep the finger against the
pattern plate, substantially as described.
10. The universal feeding device, and needle bar, pinion A', moving in unison
with them, the intermediate gear B, gear C, arm C', and stud gear, stationary track,
and plate e², combined with a marking or tracing tool to mark or trace the said
plate while the feeding device is being turned by or through the shaft W, as usual
to thus outline the form of the cam suitable to enable the automatic reproduction
of the figure made while actuating the feeding device by hand, substantially as
described.
11. In an attachment for automatically operating a universal feeding device, the
pattern carrying arm, means to move it continuously in one direction at a uniform
speed, a pattern plate mounted on an axis made to travel with the pattern carrying
arm, and means to rotate the said pattern plate, combined with the actuating gear
having its speed of movement made variable by deviation of the pattern plate from
a true circle to thus enable the universal feeding device to move the fabric or
material in suitable directions for the production by the needle and its thread of
irregular figures, substantially as described.
12. The main pinion a7, the pattern plate, and intermediate gearing to rotate the
said plate, combined with the actuating gear and finger made movable with the said
actuating gear and held against the pattern plate, substantially as and for the
purpose described.
13. That improvement in the art or method of producing pattern plates for
embroidery machines, which consists in automatically working or tracing on a
revolving plate an outline for a figure while the feed of the fabric is being effected
by hand, and then shaping the said plate according to the outline, substantially as
described.
14. An attachment or apparatus substantially as described adapted to be applied
to an embroidering machine to automatically control the direction of the feeding
movement of the material being embroidered.
In Witness whereof, I, the said Raphael Hunter Brandon, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this eleventh day of July in the year of our Lord, 1883.