Improvements in Guides for Sewing Machines.
Year: 1889

page_text: Date of Application, 16th Mar., 1889
Soecification Accepted, 11th May, 1889
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Guides for Sewing Machines.
POR
I JULIUS KÖHLER of Limbach, Saxony, Manufacturer of Sewing machines do
hereby declare the nature of my invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN GUIDES
SEWING MACHINES," and in what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement and accompanying
drawings:
:―
My said invention relates to certain improvements in the guides or appliances
used in sewing machines for the purpose of guiding the fabrics which are to be
sewn in between the feed rolls which in some machines conduct the fabrics past
a horizontally moving needle. The said guides also fulfil the purpose of taking
out the curl which some fabrics, such as knitted fabrics, acquire and in the case of
some kinds of fabrics as for instance knitted fabrics with cut edges they serve to
fold or double over such cut edges before the fabrics are united.
In order that my said invention may be fully understood I will proceed to
describe the same with reference to the accompanying sheet of drawings in which
Fig. 1 indicates the relative position of the said guides, with regard to the feed
rolls A B used in sewing machines for knitted fabrics.
Figures 2-8 are various views of one of the said guides or parts thereof as
constructed for use with selvaged fabrics. Of these figures Fig. 2 is a side view
of the complete guide. Fig. 4 is a front elevation. Fig. 5 is a section and
Fig. 7 is a plan thereof and Figures 3, 6 and 8 are illustrations of some of
the details.
In the accompanying sheet of drawings the same letters refer to the same parts
in all the figures.
On the sides of a centrepiece a Fig. 3. provided with a slot b and a tongue c are
two jaws d and e having their lower edges bevelled to enable the guide to approach
as closely as possible to the point of contact of the feed rolls A and B Fig. 7 and
formed as shown in the drawing at el for the purpose of straightening the curled
edges of knitted fabrics.
A projection f (Figures 5 and 6) on each jaw fits into the slot of the centre-
piece a the jaws being united by lugs g, Figures 5 and 6, through which passes a

page_text: pin g on which the jaws hinge. A screw h passes through the centrepiece a and
the jaws,d and e and is provided with nuts for the purpose of regulating the
width of the space between the lower part of each of the jaws d and e and the
central tongue c in order to readily admit fabrics of different degrees of
thickness.
At the top a spring i Figure 5 presses the upper extremities of the jaws de
outwards against the nuts. In the event of a thicker part of the fabric having
to pass through the guide the spring will yield and allow the lower parts of the
jaws to open.
Generally the jaws d e are so adjusted by the nuts that the fabric can be
drawn through without pressure. Fig. 8 shows two pieces of fabric passing through
a guide of the construction hereinbefore described.
Figures 9 to 16 are various views of a guide intended to be used when sewing
knitted fabrics the edges of which have been cut and which it is desirable to fold
over before the fabrics are sewn as for instance in forming a seam.
In these figures Fig. 9 is a side view, Fig. 10a is a plan as seen from above,
Fig. 10 is a plan as seen from below and Fig. 13 is a front view of the complete
guide. Fig. 14 is a part of the front view shewn on an enlarged scale and
Figures 11, 12, 15 and 16 are drawings of some of the details.
On to a central piece are fastened; preferably by screws, two jaws and ma
portion of whose inner faces, viz. from the top downwards as far as the dotted
line Fig. 9, are in close contact with the central piece. From the dotted line 11ª
downwards the material of which the jaws are made is removed as indicated in
Fig. 12 so as to leave a space at this part between the jaws and the central
piece for the passage of the fabrics to be sewn. This space is shown in Fig. 10
where the fabrics are indicated by dotted lines, the arrow heads indicating the
direction in which the fabrics pass through. The edge of the fabric uncurls in
passing the edge 13 of the jaw. Over the jaws and m are fixed adjustable pieces
and p of the form shown separately at Fig. 11; the front portions of these pieces o
and paro bent inwards so as to lie between the three tongues n¹ n² n³ of the adjustable
folder n as shown in Fig. 13.
0
When two pieces of knitted fabric having cut edges are to be joined together so
as to form a seam in which the cut edges shall be folded over before being presented
to the needle the two fabrics are passed through the guide whereupon the edges 13 13
of the jaws Im uneurl the edges of the fabrics and guide them to the tongues n' n² n³
of the folder. The upper edge of the fabric in passing under the jaws and m is
however somewhat higher than the roots of the tongues n' n² n³ so that in passing
under them the edges of the fabrics are folded over outwards on the points of the
pieces o p and are presented to the needle in the manner indicated on an enlarged
scale in Fig. 14. The depth from the edge at which the fabric is sewn is regulated
by the relative positions towards each other of the parts and n.
C
Although my said invention is more particularly applicable to knitted fabrics and
in the foregoing description reference has been chiefly made to its use in connection
therewith wish it to be understood that I do not limit myself to such application of
my said invention but may use the same for guiding other textile fabrics to the
feed rolls of a sewing machine as hereinbefore described.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is.
1. The combination and arrangement of parts shown in Figures 2 to 8 of the
accompanying drawing consisting of a central piece a having guide jaws d. e hinged
thereon adjustable by means of a screw and nuts h¹ and provided with a spring i
to allow the jaws to yield when a thicker part of the fabric passes through, the whole
constituting an appliance for the purpose of guiding knitted or other textile fabrics.
to the feed rolls of a sewing machine substantially as hereinbefore described and
shown.

page_text: 2. The combination and arrangement of parts shown in Figures 9 to 16 of the
accompanying drawings consisting of a central piece & having guide jaws and m
rigidly attached thereto on which are mounted adjustable bent pieces o and p fitting
between tongues n' n' n³ of an adjustable folder n the whole constituting an appliance
for the purpose of folding over the edges of knitted or other textile fabrics to any
required extent and of guiding them to the feed rolls of a sewing machine substantially
as hereinbefore described and shown.
Dated this Fifteenth day of March 1889.
JULIUS ALLMANN & Co.,
70, Deansgate, Manchester,
Agents for Applicant.