IM- PROVEMENTS IN THE SEWING OR STITCHING OF LEATHER OR OTHER LIKE MATERIALS, AND IN MACHINERY THEREFOR, CHIEFLY DESIGNED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF HARNESS AND BOOTS AND SHOES
Year: 1876

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Robert Lake, of the Firm of Haseltine, Lake, & Co.,
Patent Agents, Southampton Buildings, London, for the Invention of "IM-
PROVEMENTS IN THE SEWING OR STITCHING OF LEATHER OR OTHER LIKE
MATERIALS, AND IN MACHINERY THEREFOR, CHIEFLY DESIGNED FOR THE
MANUFACTURE OF HARNESS AND BOOTS AND SHOES." A communication from
abroad by Edward Reed Gardner, of New Bedford, Massachusetts, United
States of America.
Sealed the 6th February 1877, and dated the 22nd August 1876.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Robert Lake at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 22nd August 1876.
WILLIAM ROBERT LAKE, of the Firm of Haseltine, Lake, & Co., Patent Agents,
Southampton Buildings, London. "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE SEWING OR STITCHING
OF LEATHER OR OTHER LIKE MATERIALS, AND IN MACHINERY THEREFOR, CHIEFLY
DESIGNED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF HARNESS AND BOOTS AND SHOES." A
communication.
My Invention comprises an improved stitch or mode of sewing, especially designed
for sewing leather and other heavy work, being particularly adapted for harness
making, shoe making, and the like, also improved machinery or apparatus for
producing the said improved stitch.
In uniting the constituent parts of harness or other heavy sewn fabrics, and
especially the soles and uppers of boots and shoes, it is important that the thread
should entirely fill the hole made by the needle, otherwise water may pass through
the cavity left, and as the surface of the stitch becomes worn the thread hanging
loosely in the hole is liable to draw out and the seam to "rip" or come apart.
One object of this Invention is to produce a stitch or mode of sewing in which
the thread shall completely fill the hole left by the needle, and be so forced into it
as entirely to preclude the passage of water, and to form an elastic peg which will
so adhere to the surface of the hole that even if the portion of the thread lying on
the surface of the material be worn away, it will prevent the "ripping" of the seam.
I accomplish this object in the following manner, that is to say-In forming the
said stitch I use an eye pointed needle which is made to pass through the work
or material being sewn. The needle carries with it by its eye the upper thread, and
after passing a sufficient distance through the work it recedes and leaves behind it
...o.

page_text: a slack loop. I then cause a piece of mechanism which I call a looper, and which is
provided with a hook at its point, to advance and pass through the loop and to
engage with the lower thread, and then to recede and draw with it a loop of the
under thread through the aforesaid loop. The length of this loop of under thread
is made to correspond with the thickness of the work and is governed by the
adjustable movement of the looper. After forming the loop of under thread the
looper immediately advances again as far as the hole in the work plate, and allows
the still retiring needle to draw the loop of under thread embraced in the loop with
it up into the work. The work when executed thus exhibits an upper thread
lying on its surface, and an under thread which lies along its under side. But in
the holes loft by the needle there are not only the two thicknesses of thread caused
by the interlocking of the under thread with the upper thread, but also two
additional thicknesses of thread produced by the loop of the under thread which is
drawn up into the needle hole as described. These four thicknesses or strands of thread
completely fill the holo and are solidly pressed or jammed into it, and form an elastic
peg firm enough to hold the work together even if the upper or under threads were
broken or worn away.
The machine for sewing in the manner above described is constructed as follows:-
The eye pointed needle carrying the upper thread is employed in connection with a
work supporting arm adapted to enter any part of a boot or shoe, and with a
reciprocating looper arranged in combination with a guide to operate the under
thread. This looper and guide are carried independently by the work supporting
arm. These parts serve particularly to form the stitch as above described. I also
employ a swivelling feed device and presser foot mounted upon pivoted arms, the
object of which is to permit sewing around any part of a boot or shoe.
In the formation of the stitch as above described it is essential that the length of
the loop formed in the under thread should be automatically regulated to correspond
at all times with the thickness of the work or inaterial to be sewn. I ensure this
result by connecting the feed device and presser foot with the looper in such a
mannor that the thickness of the work controls the movement of the looper and
causes it always to draw a loop of the proper length. I also provide means for
varying the length of the loop to suit the various classes of work to which the stitch
is applicable. I also sometimes connect with the feed device a piece of mechanism
called a "
"to mark or
"
crease the work for ornamental purposes.
crcaser
The
The frame of the said machine is suitably constructed to support the various
working parts. The driving shaft is provided with a fly wheel, and from this shaft
the proper motion is transmitted to the various parts of the machine.
reciprocating needle bar is mounted in guides in the head of the machine and
operated by a pin or cam upon the end of the driving shaft working in a slotted
cross plate secured to the needle bar. Upon the lower portion of the needle bar is
secured a collar which may be adjusted vertically thereon, and whose functions are
to operate and regulate the feed device in connection with a shoulder on the needle
bar above the collar. The feed device consists of two feed points secured near their
front ends to the presser foot by means of bolts passing through slots in the feed
points and connected at their outer ends to the lower end of a curved feed arm in a
similar manner.
The creaser is so formed as to be capable of being substituted for the feed points
when it is desired to mark or crease the sole in imitation of hand sewing. The edge
of the creaser then propels the work in the same manner as the feed points would do,
while leaving the desired mark on the sole. The said slots allow the feed points to
work freely and rise and fall at proper times during their backward and forward
motions. The feed arm is pivoted between the ends of supporting arms which
are attached to a plate pivoted to and projecting from the lower needle bar bearing.
The said feed arin has the form of a bent lever and passes through a slot in the
presser foot arm, and to the upper end of the said feed arm is pivoted a clutch or
coupling whose upper end embraces the needle bar above the collar. By means of
the said collar the feed arm is operated to make the feed on the upward stroke of

page_text: the needle bar, while a shoulder acts upon a clucth upon the descent of the needle
bar to retract the feed points, thus giving the proper reciprocating motion to the
feed device. The presser foot is attached to and carried by a rod which moves
vertically in two guide plates pivoted to and extending out from the upper and
lower bearings of the needle bar respectively, while a stem rising from the upper
end of the presser foot arm serves as a bearing for a spring contained in a vertical
tube. This spring serves to give the presser foot and feed points the proper
downward pressure upon the work. The pressure is regulated to suit the nature of
the work by an adjusting screw which bears upon the upper end of the said spring.
The vertical rod, together with the feed device, the presser foot, and the said tube
containing its pressure spring being secured to and carried by the plates which are
pivoted to the needle bar bearings concentrically with the needle bar, the feed
device, and presser foot can be caused to make a half revolution around the needle
bar as a centre. I provide the machine with a lifter by which the presser foot and
the feed device can be lifted from the work.
The throw of the feed points, which determines the length of the stitch, is
adjusted by raising or lowering the aforesaid collar on the needle bar.
A double cam secured on the cam shaft works within a yoke; a rod is fixed to
the said yoke, and passes downward through the frame, and is connected at its
lower end to a bell-crank lever, which is connected with and transmits motion to
the looper and thread guide. The said yoke has a friction roll, which rests upon
and is operated by the double cam, giving a vertical motion to the yoke, and
actuating the looper through the bell-crank connection. To the upper side of this
yoke is attached a short rod, which passes upward through a guide plate, and
connects with the forked end of a lever hung on a pin at the top of the machine.
The said rod is surrounded with a spiral spring, which forces the yoke downward
after it has been raised by the cam. The top end of this rod is provided with a
collar, which prevents the descent of the rod and yoke lower than the proper
distance. The said lever is also connected at its front end to the presser foot rod
by a collar, pin, and fork connection. The centre line of the connection must be in
the line of the axis of the needle bar to produce the proper movement of the
looper, and allow at the same time the feed device and presser foot to be swivelled
as required.
The bell-crank lever is connected to and operates the 'looper, giving it a forward
and backward motion as the yoke and rod rise and fall.
It will be perceived that the double cam gives four motions in succession to the
yoke and looper 1od for each stitch, and these movements are transferred to the
looper. The machine is so timed that the first of these movements takes place
just as the needle begins to return through the work having formed the loop on
needle thread, and causes the looper point or hook to advance through the loop of
the upper thread and seize the lower thread from the guide, which has been
advanced to ineet it, as herein-after described. The second movement causes it to
recede, bringing a loop of the lower thread through the loop of the upper thread;
it remains in this position until the needle is just about to leave the work. The
third movement causes the looper once more to advance, but this time only
until its point comes directly under the hole in the work supporting arm, this
movement releases the loop, and allows it to be drawn up into the work. The
fourth movement draws back the looper to prevent its point from intercepting the
loop of the upper thread while being formed by the movement of the needle.
The looper is carried by and lies along the side of the upwardly inclined work
supporting arm, and is held in position by screws which pass through horizontal
slots by which and through the bell crank it receives a horizontal movement. The
looping end is made horizontal to correspond with the horizontal end of the work
supporting arm, and is formed into the looping hook. The third guide is also
carried by the work supporting arm, and is arranged on the side of it opposite to
the looper. It consists of an arm pivoted to the side of the work supporting arm,
and connected to a spring, which tends to keep the thread guide back from the face

page_text: of the arm. The front end of this arm is bent at right angles, and has an eye
which recoivos and guides the under thread; this eye passes through an opening in
the work supporting arm directly below and in front of the needle passage, and
carries the under thread. Near the pivoted end of the thread guide, and pro-
jecting from the spring, is a stud with a beviled end extending through an
aperture in the work support, and coming directly opposite a recess of suitable
form on the under edge of the looper. This stud serves to actuate the thread guide,
and cause its eyed end to carry forward the thread to meet the looper as it moves
forward, and to recede again after the loop is taken. The first movement is caused
by the looper passing over the beviled end of the stud and forcing it back, and the
second by the action of the said spring. The stitch loops are formed at lengths
accurately corresponding to the thickness of the work operated upon by means of
the lever, which is connected at one end with the presser rod in the line of the axis
of the needle bar, and at the other end with the looper through the yoke and rod
and bell crank, together with the double cam, as above described.
In some classes of work it is desirable to conceal the ends of the stitch loops,
that the face of the stitches may give the appearance of hand sewed work, while
in other classes of work where the face of the stitch is not exposed to view in wear,
and where greater strength is required, the ends of the stitch loops may project
beyond the surface of the work, and be subsequently riveted in the operation of
rubbing down the seam. The capability of obtaining this variable length of loop is
furnished by a screw by raising or lowering which the position of a lever is altered,
and the loop made longer or shorter, but in whatever position the said screw is
fixed it is clear the loops will be made of that length relatively to the substance of
the work, which is due to the given position of the said screw, but that the
absolute length of the loop will still depend on the thickness under the presser foot.
The looper rod is made adjustable in length by means of a screw sleeve and lock
nut union, so that by adjusting the said screw sleeve the looper hook is set in its
proper relation to the thread guide and needle.
The depression between the acting parts parts of the cam is sufficient to allow the
greatest necessary length of loop to be drawn without the roller coming in contact
with the cam body, the remaining part of the cam from one poiut to the other is
concentric with the shaft, and communicates no movement to the yoke; it is of
such a size as to allow the looper to remain sufficiently clear of the needle while it
descends to commence another stitch.
For taking up the needle thread I employ a device, which comprises a lever
carrying a grooved roll at its end, and held in position by an adjusting spring,
which may be set to press with more or less force upon the thread by means of a
set screw that also serves to attach the take up to a hanger secured to the frame.
The needle thread passes around the said grooved guide roll, and around another
grooved roll on the collar of the needle bar and the take-up pressure is produced
upon the thread between them by the guide roll.
The needle thread is supplied from the spool which is fitted with a tension device
consisting of a notched spring pin, so set that its notched end will engage the peri-
phery of the spool, and give the desired pressure or tension therçon. The under
thread passes through the guide from the said spool.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said William Robert Lake in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
21st February 1877.
WILLIAM ROBERT LAKE, of the Firm of Haseltine, Lake, & Co., Patent Agents,
Southampton Buildings, London. "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE SEWING OR STITCHING
OF LEATHER OR OTHER LIKE MATERIALS, AND IN MACHINERY THEREFOR, CHIEFLY

page_text: A com-
.DESIGNED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF HARNESS AND BOOTS AND SHOES."
inunication from abroad by Edward Reed Gardner, of New Bedford, Massachusetts,
United States of America.
My Invention comprises an improved stitch or mode of sewing especially
designed for sewing leather and other heavy work, the same being particularly
adapted for harness making, boot and shoe making, and the like. It also comprises
improved machinery or apparatus for producing the said improved stitch.
In uniting the constituent parts of harness or other heavy sewn fabrics, and
especially the soles and uppers of boots and shoes, it is important that the thread
should entirely fill the hole made by the needle, otherwise water may pass through
the cavity left, and as the surface of the stitch becomes worn the thread hanging
loosely in the hole is liable to be drawn out and the scam to " rip" or come
apart.
One object of this Invention is the production of a stitch or a mode of sewing
in which the thread will completely fill the hole left by the needle, and will be so
forced into it as entirely to preclude the passage of water and to form an elastic
peg, which will so adhere to the surface of the hole that even if the portion of the
thread lying on the surface of the material should be worn away it will prevent the
ripping of the seam.
I will now explain the manner in which I accomplish this object by the aid of
the accompanying Drawings, in which,—
Figure 1 is a side elevation of a machine constructed according to this Invention;
Figure 2 is a front elevation of the same.
Figure 3 is a side view of a double cam or excentric used in connection with the
yoke of the looper rod, herein-after described.
Figuro shews a side and edge view of a marker or creaser, herein-after
described.
Figure 5 is a side elevation of the work supporting arm, showing the looper
projected; Figure 6 is-a horizontal section of the same, showing the thread guide
projected and the looper in position to take the thread therefrom.
Figure 7 is a side elevation of the said work supporting arm with the looper
retracted or in position to advance and form the stitch loop.
Figure 8 is a horizontal section of the same, showing the thread guide retracted.
Figure is a sectional view, shewing the formation of the stitch in uniting
the work.
Figure 10 is a cross section thereof through one of the stitches; and Figure 11
is a portion of the bottom of a boot or shoe sole, shewing the appearance of the
stitch in the channel.
I will first refer to Figures 9, 10, and 11, and describe the formation of the said
improved stitch. This stitch is formed in the following manner, that is to say:-
I use an eye pointed needle c, which is made to pass through the work g, j, h, of
which g may represent the "out sole," j, the upper, and h, the insole of a boot.
The said needle carries with it by its eye the upper thread b, and after passing
a sufficient distance through the work it recedes and leaves behind it a slack loop e.
I then cause a piece of mechanism shown at I, which I call a looper, and which is
provided with a hook at its point, to advance and pass through the loop e, and to
engage with the lower thread a, and then to recede and draw with it a loop d of
the under thread through the loop e. The length of this loop d is made to corre-
spond with the thickness of the work, and is governed by the adjustable move-
ment of the looper I. After formning the loop & the looper immediately advances
again as far as the hole M in the work plate A, and allows the still retiring needle
to draw the loop & embraced in the loop e with it up into the work g, j, h. The
work when thus executed exhibits an upper thread lying on its surface, and an
under thread which lies along its under side. But in the holes left by the needlo
there are not only the two thicknesses of thread caused by the interlocking of the
under thread with the upper thread but also two additional thicknesses of thread
produced by the loop of the under thread, which is drawn up into the needle holo

page_text: as described. These four thicknesses or strands of thread completely fill the hole,
and are solidly pressed or jammed into it, and form an elastic peg firm enough to
hold the work together even if the upper or under threads should be broken or
worn away.
I will now proceed to describe the construction of the machine for sewing in the
manner above described. I use an eye pointed needle carrying the upper thread
in connection with a work supporting arm adapted to enter any part of a boot or
shoo. I also employ a reciprocating looper in conjunction with a guide to operate
the under throad. This looper and guide are carried independently by the work
supporting arm. These parts serve particularly to form the stitch as above
described. I also employ a swivelling feed device and presser foot mounted upon
pivoted arms, which perinit sewing around any part of a boot or shoe.
In the formation of the stitch, as above described, it is essential that the length
of the loop formed in the under thread should be automatically regulated to corre-
I ensure
spond at all times with the thickness of the work or material to be sewn.
this result by connecting the feed device and presser foot with the looper in such
a manner that the thickness of the work determines the extent of movement of
the looper and causes it always to draw a loop of the proper length. I also provide
means for varying the length of the loop to suit the various classes of work to
which the aforesaid stitch is applicable. I also sometimes connect with the feed
"
" to mark or
device a piece of mechanism called a
"the work for
ornamental purposes.
tr
creaser
crease
A is the frame of the said machine, which supports the various working parts of
the same; B is the driving shaft provided with a fly wheel C. From this shaft the
proper motion is transmitted to the various parts, as herein-after explained; D is
a reciprocating needle bar mounted in guides in the head of the machine, and
operated by a pin or cam E upon the end of the driving shaft working in a slotted
cross plate F secured to the needle bar. Upon the lower portion of the needle bar
is secured a collar G, which may be adjusted vertically thereon, and whose
functions are to operate and regulate the feed device in connection with a
-shoulder S on the needle bar above the collar G. The feed device consists of feed
points H, secured near their front ends to the presser foot P. by means of bolts K
passing through slots L, L', in the feed points, and connected at their outer ends
to the lower end of a curved feed arm M in a similar manner.
The creaser B, Figure 4, is so constructed that it may be substituted for the feed
points when it is desired to mark or crease the sole in imitation of hand sewing.
The edge a* of the said creaser, Figure 4, then propels the work in the same
manner as the feed points while leaving the desired mark on the sole. The action
of the two slots L, L¹, allows the feed points H to work freely, and rise and fall at
proper times during their backward and forward motions. The feed arın M is
pivoted between the ends of the supporting arms N, which are attached to the
plate W² pivoted to and projecting from the lower needle bar bearing. The feed
arm M has the form of a bent lever as shewn, and passes through a slot in the
presser foot arm P, and to the upper end of the arm M is pivoted a clutch or
coupling R, whose upper end embraces the needle bar above the collar G. By
means of this collar G the feed arm is operated to make the feed on the upward
stroke of the needle bar, while the shoulder S acts upon the clutch R upon the
descent of the needle bar to retract the feed points, thus giving the proper
reciprocating motion to the feed device. The presser foot P is attached to and
carried by a rod N¹, which moves vertically in the two guide plates W, W², pivoted
to and extending out from the upper and lower bearings of the needle bar, while a
stem T, Figure 2, rising from the upper end of the presser foot arm P serves as a
bearing for a spring U contained in a vertical tube O. This spring serves to give
the presser foot P and feed points H the proper downward pressure upon the work.
The pressure is regulated to suit the nature of the work by an adjusting screw V,
which bears upon the upper end of the spring U. The vertical rod N¹ together
with the feed device H, the presser foot P, and the tube containing its pressure

page_text: spring are secured to and carried by the plates W, W, which are pivoted to the
needle bar bearings concentrically with the needle bar D, the feed device and
presser foot can be caused to make a half revolution around the needle bar D as a
centre. The presser foot P and the feed device are in intimate connection, and
their movements depend mutually upon each other. During the time it is un-
influenced by the action of the feed device the presser foot P rests on the work under
the pressure of its spring U, and while the feed points are being drawn back by
the descent of the shoulder S upon the coupling R the slots L sliding over the
bolt K raise the feed points H out of contact with the work; but when the move-
ment of the feed points is reversed and they commence to move forward, the under
side of the slot L bears against the bolt K, and forces the feed point or points into
the work, and at the same time lifts up the presser foot P. The pressure of the
spring U is thus transferred to the feed points, and the work released from the
retaining pressure of the presser foot moves freely forward under the control of the
feed points.
It will be observed that the work is never free from the pressure of the spring U
which constantly rests upon it either through the presser foot or the feed points,
and consequently there is an equal or uniform pressure on the work during the
process of sewing; Z is the lifter by which the presser foot and the feed device can
be lifted from the work at pleasure.
The throw of the feed points which determines the length of the stitch is adjusted
by raising or lowering the collar G on the needle bar.
A¹, Figure 3, represents a double cam secured on the cam shaft B and which
works within a yoke B. A rod C¹ is attached to the yoke B', and passes down-
ward through the frame, and is connected at its lower end to a bell-crank lever D¹,
Figure 1, which is connected with and transmits motion to the looper 1, and thread
guide 1, as herein-after described. The yoke B', Figure 3, has a friction roll E¹
which rests upon and is operated by the double cam A¹ giving a vertical motion to
the yoke, and actuating the looper through the bell-crank connection. To the
upper side of this yoke is attached a short rod F¹, Figures 1 and 3, which passes
upward through a guide plate Y, Figure 1, and connects with the forked end G¹ of
a lever H hung on a pin Y¹ at the top of the machine. The rod F is surrounded
with a spiral spring X which forces the yoke B₁ downward after it has been
raised by the cam A. The top end of the rod F¹ is provided with a collar G¹¹
which prevents the descent of the rod and yoke lower than the lever H¹ will permit,
so that the distance the yoke B' moves upward is constant, that is to say, this
movement is produced by the cam, but the said yoke descends only as far as the
collar G will allow, and the movements of the looper I correspond with these
movements of the yoke. The lever H³ is also connected at its front end to the
presser foot rod N¹ by the collar, pin, and fork connection K. The centre line of
the connection must be in the line of the axis of the needle bar D to produce the
proper movement of the looper I, and allow at the same time the feed device H and
presser foot P to be swivelled as required.
The bell-crank lever D¹, Figure 1, is connected to and operates the looper I,
giving it a forward and backward motion as the yoke B¹ and rod C¹, Figure 3, rise
and fall.
It will be perceived that the double cam A¹ gives four motions in succession to
the yoke and looper rod for each stitch, and these movements are transferred to the
looper. The machine is so timed that the first of these movements takes place just
as the needle begins to return through the work after having formed the loop on
the needle thread, and causes the looper point or hook to advance through the
loop of the upper thread, and seize the lower thread from the guide K², which has
been advanced to meet it as herein-after described. The second movement causes
the looper to recede, bringing a loop of the lower thread through the loop of the
upper thread; it remains in this position until the needle is just about to leave the
work. The third movement causes the looper once more to advance, but this time
.

page_text: only until its point comes directly under the hole in the work supporting arm; this
movement releases the loop and allows it to be drawn up into the work. The
fourth movement draws back the looper to keep its point from intercepting the
loop of the upper thread while being formed by the movement of the noodles.
The looper I is carried by and lies along the side of the upwardly inclined work
supporting arm A, and is held in position by screws 12, which pass through hori-
zontal slots j*, by which and by the bell crank D¹ it receives a horizontal
movement. The looping end is made horizontal to correspond with the horizontal
end of the work supporting arm A², and on it is formed the looping hook. The
thread guide K¹ is also carried by the work supporting arm, and is arranged on its
side opposite to the looper I. This guide consists of an arm I³, Figures 2, 6, 8,
pivoted to the side of the work supporting arm and connected to a spring I, Figures
6, 8, which tends to keep the thread guide back from the face of the arm, as at K¹,
Figure 8. The front end of this arm I³ is bent at right angles, and has an eye which
receives and guides the under thread. This eye passes through an opening 1º,
Figure 9, in the work supporting arm A directly below and in front of the needle
passage, and carries the under thread. Near the pivoted end of the thread guide
and projecting from the spring is a stud M¹ with a bevelled end extending through
an aperture in the work support, and directly opposite a recess of suitable form on
the under edge of the looper. This stud serves to actuate the thread guide and
cause its eyed end to carry forward the thread to meet the looper as it moves
forward, and to recede again after the loop is taken. The first movement is caused
by the looper passing over the bevelled end of the stud and forcing it back, and the
second by the action of the spring I. In this movement of the thread guide the
looper acts as a cam upon the stud M', so that both the looper and thread guide are
actuated through the bell crank D¹ from the double cam A¹
The stitch loops are formed in lengths accurately corresponding with the thickness
of the work operated upon by means of the lever H, which is connected at one end
with the presser rod N¹ in the line of the axis of the needle bar, and at the other end
with the looper I through the yoke and rod B¹, C¹, and bell crank D¹, tegether with
the double cam A¹, as above described.
This mechanism operates as follows, namely:-The position the lover H¹ assumes
is governed by the connection K², and the latter is fixed on the rod N¹, which rests
ultimately by means of the presser foot P on the surface of the work, so that the
position of the connection K* and that of the lever will be regulated by the
thickness of the work under the presser foot. As herein-before described the
movements of the yoke B' upward and of the looper I outwards (or the movement
for taking the thread) are constant, being determined by the projection of the cam,
but the downward movement of the yoke and tho inward movement of the looper
(or the movement for drawing the under thread loop) are variable, depending on the
distance the lever Hallows the collar G¹ to fall. The thickness of the work, as
above set forth, governs the position of the lever H, and consequently the distance
fallen by the collar G, and the length that the looper draws the under thread loop,
so that the length of the loop is at all tines automatically regulated in due pro-
portion to the thickness of the work.
In some classes of work it is desirable to conceal the ends of the stitch loops, that
the face of the stitching may have the appearance of hand sewn work, while in
other classes of work where the face of the stitching is not exposed to view in wear,
and where greater strength is required, the ends of the stitch loops may project
beyond the surface of the work, and be subsequently rivetted in the operation of
rubbing down the seam. The capability of obtaining this variable length of loop is
furnished by an adjustable screw I, Figure 1. By raising or lowering this screw
the position of the lever H is altered, and the loop made longer or shorter, but in
whatever position the screw I¹ is fixed the loops will be made of that longth
relatively to the substance of the work which is due to the given position of the
screw I¹, but the absolute length of the loop will still depend on the thickness under
the presser foot. The looper rod C¹, Figure 1, is made adjustable in length by means

page_text: of a screw sleeve l and lock nut union m, so that by adjusting the said screw sleeve
the looper hook is set in its proper relation to the thread guide and the needle.
The depression between the acting parts n, o, Figure 3, of the cam, is sufficient to
allow the greatest necessary length of loop to be drawn without contact of the
roller E with the cam body, the remaining part of the cam from the point o¹ to the
point n' is concentric with the shaft and communicates no movement to the yoke,
it is of such a size as to allow the looper to remain sufficiently clear of the needio
while it descends to commence another stitch.
P¹, Figure 1, represents a device for taking up the needle thread, and consists of a
lever R carrying a grooved roll S'. at its end, and held in position by an adjusting
spring V1, which may be set to press with more or less force upon the thread by means
of a set screw U¹, that also serves to attach the take up to a hanger secured to the
frame. The needle thread passes around the roll S₁ and around a groved roll W,
Figure 2, on the collar G of the needle bar, and the take-up pressure is produced
upon the thread between these parts by the guide roll S¹. The needle thread is
supplied from the spool Z, Figure 1, which is fitted with a tension device A³, con-
sisting of a notched spring pin so set that its notched end will engage the periphery
of the spool, and give the desired pressure or tension thereon. The under thread
passes through the guide K' from the spool Z³.
Having thus fully described the said Invention as communicated to me by my
foreign correspondent, and the manner of performing the same, I wish it understood
that I claim,
First. In the sewing together of leather or other similar stiff strong or heavy
materials, the employment of the peculiar stitch or method of stitching or sewing,
as above set forth.
Second. The combination of the eye-pointed needle, carrying the upper thread,
the work supporting arm, the guide for the under thread arranged upon said arm,
and the looper operating to convey from the thread guide the loop of the under or
stitch thread through a loop of the upper or needle thread, as above set forth.
Third. The eye pointed needle, the work supporting arm, the looper and thread
guide, the swivelling feed and presser foot devices, constructed, combined, and
operating as above set forth.
Fourth. The thread guide with a right-angled eyed end and a cam pin and spring
connection at its opposite end, and the looper with a cam recess and a slot guide,
constructed, combined, and operating as above set forth.
Fifth. The arms pivoted to the frame, the presser foot with its rod, the feed
device, the collar, and the shoulder of the needle bar, constructed, combined, and
operating as above set forth and for the purpose specified.
Sixth. The combination of parts comprising the presser foot coupled with the
looper and the needle bar, with the coupling arranged in a line coincident with the
axis of the needle bar, as above set forth and for the purpose specified.
Seventh. The combination of parts comprising the looper, the thread guide, the
presser foot, and the connecting mechanism, whereby the length of the stitch is
automatically determined to suit the thickness of the work, as above specified.
Eighth. The combination of parts comprising the looper, connecting and operating
dovices, the needle bar, the couplings, and the feed and presser foot devices, operating
as above set forth for the purpose specified.
Ninth. The eye pointed needle operating through the top of the work supporting
arm, the thread guide, and the looper, constructed, combined, and operating upon
flat surface work, as above described.
Tenth. The screw rod, the cain yoke and the looper, the screw sleeve, and the
lock nut, whereby the looper connection is adjusted, as above set forth.
Eleventh. The double slotted feed point or points, the feed arm pivoted to the
frame, the needle bar, the presser foot, the guide pin, and the presser spring, whereby
the spring force of the presser foot is transferred to the feed point or points during
the operation of feeding the work, as above set forth.
Twelfth. The marker or creaser for attachment to the feed arm and presser foot,

page_text: adapted to be operated by the collar and shoulder on the needle bar, as above set
forth and for the purpose specified.
Thirteenth. The combination of parts comprising the presser foot, the feed
operating mechanism, and the creaser, whereby the work is fed and the spaces
between the stitches creased or marked, as abovo set forth.
Fourteenth. The combination of parts comprising the work supporting arm
adapted to enter a boot or shoe, the reciprocating needle, and the mechanism for
doubling and quadrupling the under thread, and for drawing the thread quadrupled
into the needle holo by the needle thread, as above described.
Fifteenth. A machine consisting of the devices and combinations of parts repre-
sented in the accompanying Drawing, and operating as above set forth for the
purposes specified.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Robert Lake, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Twenty-first day of February, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and seventy-seven.
M DADT