IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES
Year: 1865

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Edward Thomas Hughes, of the Firm of Hughes
and Son, Patent Agents, 128, Chancery Lane, London, for the Invention
of "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES."-A communication from abroad
by Jean Louis Thenen, of 24; Rue de Dunkerque, Paris, in the Empire
of France.
Sealed the 16th March 1866, and dated the 23rd September 1865.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Edward Thomas Hughes
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
23rd September 1865.
I
I, EDWARD THOMAS HUGHES, of the Firm of Hughes and Son, Patent
Agents; 123, Chancery, Laue, London, do hereby declare the nature of the
said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES," a communication to
me from abroad by Jean Louis Thenen, of 24, Rue de Dunkerque, Paris, in
the Empire of France, to be as follows:
This Invention consists of improvements in sewing machines, relating,
firstly, to that, class of machines which weave two threads together to make
what is well known as the "lock stitch," also to the construction, application,
and combination of parts of such machines; and, secondly, to that class of
machines which, upon the principle of the stocking loop; knit a single thread
A.

page_text: together so as to form what is well known as the "chain stitch;" and this
Invention comprises several modifications under the following heads :-
First, a new and improved construction, application, combination, and
arrangement of parts adapted to a discoidal, lenticular, or other suitably
(though irregularly) shaped bobbin, so employed as to serve the purpose of a
sewing shuttle, of a rotating, or of a "race" shuttle while merely suspended
without motion of its own, after the manner and upon the principle (used in
lace machines) well known as the "Nottingham lace bobbin," and sometimes
as the "lace shuttle." This improvement in its entirety is herein, to distinguish
it, called the compound" or "double spindle" machine, some of the im-
provements contained in which may be separately capable of application, either
wholly or in part, to other and different sewing machines, and comprise,―
Second, a new and improved vibrating compound looper, and in combination
therewith what is herein called an under side "take up" contrivance, and the
employment of the whole in combination with a bobbin of the description and
employed after the manner before mentioned.
"
"
"
Third, a new and improved contrivance for operating an upper side" or
top feed," and the combination thereof, or of such a "feed" with the double
"spindle" or "shaft" system here described, and with an unoperated bobbin
or other stationary substitute of the before-mentioned description for a
"rotating" or "race" shuttle, or the combination of either of the same.
Fourth, the combination of two spindles or working shafts and the gearing
thereof, the one operating the needle gear and the other the bottom
gear, so
that they work at differing speeds, and obtain the requisite relative time of
the combined movements of those parts, thereby dispensing with the use of
cams or eccentrics, commonly used for that purpose in sewing machines, and
this combination and arrangement are capable of being adapted to a "plat-
form" machine, or to what is well known as an "arm or as a "cylinder"
machine, and either to an "upper side or "top" feed, or to an
side"-feed, as the case may be.
"
"
under
The object of the first improvement, constituting, as it does, a complete
machine, is specially in reference to the so-called stationary bobbin sewing
machine to dispense with cams and eccentrics, needle dwell, and the apparatus
and complications employed in connection therewith in all such machines as
hitherto constructed, by substituting in place thereof a totally different and it
is believed a more simple yet more efficient and durable system of construction
than heretofore used or known, thereby to reduce the cost of production,
diminish the complication of the apparatus, and bring the profitable working
of the sewing machine more within the average mechanical capacity of the

page_text: masses, and especially of families, than those now in public use, which appear
to require more skill than the multitude possess, and further to secure the
combination in a larger degree than heretofore of excellence and facility of
production, with great simplicity, adaptability, and quality being considered
comparative cheapness to the public. The manner in which it is proposed to
carry these objects into effect is exemplified in the following provisional
description of this portion of the Invention, in which the before separately
mentioned heads are comprised, and the objects and methods thereof, after
wards in turn severally mentioned and explained. Commencing with the
first The form of the machine according to this portion of the Invention
is such as to permit the body (whether for platform or cylinder style), the
standard, the neck, and headstock, that is to say, the entire frame of the
machine (if preferred, and at present I prefer it), to be formed of one single
piece of cored casting, as this uniformity of substance I consider an advantage
in the process of manufacturing the machine. The general plan of the
machine. may be readily understood to consist of two working spindles or
shafts, one, the primary working shaft directly acted by the prime motor (to
which power may be imparted by a driving band or other suitable means)
consisting of a pulley attached to one of its ends; the other, a secondary
working shaft subsidiary to and operated by the primary shaft. The separate
special functions of these two shafts are severally explained under their
separate heads. It is well known that in all vibrating motions, especially in
those that rock upon a centre, the concussion of vibration (generally known
under the commoner mechanical appellation of the "back lash") is always
according to the weight of the vibrator and the distance moved by equal
velocities, of course increasing with higher and higher velocity. In all of the
so-called stationary bobbin sewing machines; so far as at present known in
public use, the entire long radius: needle arm, which is comparatively very
heavy, is vibrated, and the bobbin looper, which is comparatively very light,
and of diminutive radius, is rotated, whereby the maximum of concussion of
vibration or "back lash" is clearly incurred. In this Invention I have
exactly reversed, 'this; I vibrate the looper; and entirely dispense with the
vibrating needle arm, substituting in place. thereof a rotating crank motion
from the primary spindle direct to the needle bar itself, by which I, as clearly,
secure the very, minimum of concussion. The difference or advantage in
power and durability gained by this improved arrangement.is., very great,
much more than would be imagined until demonstrated, that is, of course,
with perfect workmanship; and I believe that in this description of sewing
machines, having vertically suspended so-called stationary bobbins, nothi

page_text: but the reverse and exact contrary of this improved system, and none other
than the vibrating needle arm or lever has ever before been used or known
1 consider this an important item of the Invention, and believe that a machine
constructed with proper workmanship according to this portion of the Inven
tion is capable of working at the highest attainable velocity practically.
possible for a sewing machine. As I say, and by the fixed laws of mechanics
have just demonstrated, I have in this portion of the Invention, and chiefly
by means of this double-working shaft arrangement, obtained in the so-called
stationary bobbin sewing machines a great economy of power or force and
greatly increased durability over those at present in public use. The primary
working shaft or spindle at its opposite or working end, by a disc and stud,
operates a crank motion attached directly to the needle bar, which is thereby
vibrated in a vertical slide with a continual motion, that is to say, without a
"dwell," and vertically works a straight needle; the primary spindle-further
actuates a combined presser and feed by means of a contrivance explained
under head the third. The prima spindle at its other for motive end is
'connected with the secondary shaft by suitable gear, respecting which various
methods present themselves to me, of which I select for the present illustration
that of a crank working quadrant, having a reciprocating rotary motion,
and geared into a spur wheel attached to the secondary shaft, in such pro-
portion as to communicate to it, and through it to the looper which is carried
by it, a swifter or a differential rate of speed, so that although starting at a
different time, or later, it yet shall overtake or come in with the needle in its
vibrations, and so as, by the completion. of their motions together in com-
bination with a tension upon both the upper and under threads, to effect a
more perfectly drawn stitch with greater uniformity in this class, that is to
say, in so-called stationary bobbin sewing machines, than heretofore.
.
The object of the second improvement is, firstly, to dispense with the com
plications accompanying a rotating looper, which complications include in
some machines a brush or some secondary apparatus to retain the loop
distended until the second or third following loop is formed, and in others an
'irregular motion, or a "dwell" in the needle movement with consequent can
apparatus and an involved "upper side." "take up," involving also a continual
chafing friction upon the sewing thread. This object I purpose to carry into
effect by the substitution of a vibrating looper (which I call a compound
looper) having two unequal points or horns, and vibrating around the
suspended stationary bobbin; so as to seize and throw and leave the loop
of the needle thread partially round the bobbin, then withdrawing there
from; and then return back again to repeat the operation. And nex

page_text: the
the object of what is called the "under side" "take up" in combination
with this last. is to take up the slack of the spent loop and to move it
out of the way of the looper when in action. This it is purposed to carry
into effect by a counter curve born following in reverse direction the return
or counter vibration of the looper, but shaped so as to project its outline
ecliptically to the plane of the looper's rotary vibration, and cause a curved
spring piece to push aside from the needle's path the combined threads of the
bobbin and the needle loop; which otherwise, would remain in the way of
the looper, and bave always proved an impediment difficult to provide against
in rotating 'looper machines. And again the object of the combination
of all these is at each drawing of the looper always to pull the last pre-
ceding stitch clean "home" and perfect it. It also gives the further advan-
tage that a "take up" on the upper. side may be dispensed with. This it
is intended to carry into effect by the suitable adjustment of the combined
movements, accompanied by tension upon the under as well as upper
thread, and the peculiar, effect secured by withdrawing by vibration. the
looper from the loop, instead of rotating the looper and throwing off
the loop, as hitherto practised, and thus to avail to the fullest extent of
the capacities of the so-called stationary bobbin system of sewing machines.
The object of the third improvement is to obtain by the simplest mechanism
the proper working of an apparatus that shall combine a "presser" and a
"feed" in one instrument.. An under side "feed" necessarily requires, to
obtain the like result, two separate instruments, that is to say, one for each
of these purposes; 'and all of this class, that is to say, all so-called stationary,
bobbin sewing machines heretofore publicly known, have used an under side
feed, and, generally in that form commonly known by the appellation of "the
four inotion feed." The object of the combination of the aforesaid top feed
and apparatus with a bobbin such as described under head third is to secure.
the more simple because condensed apparatus, and the advantages of a top
feed, and of sewing or stitching with such a. bobbin as aforesaid in one and
the same machine, which I believe has never before, been done. This I
propose to carry into effect by means of an instrument that shall. serve.
instead and perform the office of both the presser for holding the material:
sewn, and of the feed surface for advancing it. along as sewn, which in the.
ordinary four motion feed; or in any under side feed, require two separate instru
ments, one on each side of the, cloth or material being sewn; and I operate
such instrument by a very simple contrivance, that is to say, a compound,
heart cam upon the primary-spindle, passing through and, working within a
suitable, aperture of the instrument, serving as presser. and as. feed, and a.

page_text: spring that effects the return motion of the instrument as a "feed," and causes
also the elastic force of the instrument, in performing the office of a “ 'presser,"
as one of the holding surfaces that keep the cloth in place for the thrust and
retraction of the needle at every stitch. And further by the combination of such
feed and such contrivance with a bobbin, and with a looper apparatus as de-
scribed herein, and with my improved double shaft system, I notably increase
the adaptability to a greater variety of work of the whole as a sewing machine
over those of this class hitherto used by the public.
The object of the fourth improvement is to obtain, by the simplest mechan
ism; the requisite relative time in the combined movements of the needle or
upper thread gear and of the under thread gear, so that the sewing instru-
ments, in this instance consisting of the needle and the looper, shall, however,
when they commence their respective movements, always terminate them
together in conjunction, so that the proper simultaneous strain of both threads
at the close, essential to a properly drawn stich, is secured; it being well
known to be necessary that the needle must first rise sufficiently to draw its
threads into a buckle or loop, and that after that the other sewing instrument
(in this instance the looper herein described). must commence to seize the
loop, then draw and throw it, then leave it over the bobbin, and perform also
whatever other functions pertain to such instrument in time to complete
simultaneously with the needle the final strain of both upon the thread, and
fet return within the remainder of the rotation to the original starting point to
recommence the same operation, and so on continually. This I propose to
carry into effect by the simple yet effective contrivance already provisionally
described herein in the last paragraph under head the first, to effect a differ-
ential speed in the two working spindles, in lieu of the complicated though
ingenious methods, by means of cams, eccentrics, and other contrivances, here-
tofore practised to attain the same end in sewing machines.
The fifth head or modification of this Invention consists of another adapta-
tion of the so-called stationary bobbin system of sewing machines, constituting
also in its combination and arrangement an entire machine, and capable, by a
slight change or modification of its arrangement, of effecting either that which
is well known as the "lock stitch" or that other which is also well known' as
the "knot stitch," in which last each stitch is interlocked after the manner of
that seaman's knot nautically known as a half "hitch."
The object of this fifth improvement is to combine with such a bobbin as
described and the accompanying under side gear, and with such "knot stitch"
modification, and to adapt also to the production of a two-threaded stitch &
graceful and general plan of machine that can be rendered noiseless, or nearly

page_text: poiseless, and that has proved efficient and popular for operating a single
thread chain stitch. The manner in which it is purposed to carry this into
effect is exemplified in the following provisional description of this. portion of
the Invention. The general plan of the machine will be readily understood
as consisting of but one working spindle or shaft, which rotates at the under
side, that is, beneath the level of the platform, and which alone operates, by
direct connection, all the sewing instruments; that is to say, the needle, the
looper, and the feed. The spindle or shaft may be driven by a pulley worked
by any convenient means, and as upon this plan now proposed a "dwell" in
the needle motion is desirable, a disc cam, suitable to produce the requisite
irregular motions of the needle, is attached to and rotated by the working
spindle at or near its outer end, so as to directly vibrate in accordance there-
with a vertical slide or bar, carrying an arm attached in any convenient mode
to the shorter arm of the needle lever, which is rocked upon a stud borne by
the standard. or frame, and which, at the extremity of its longer arm, is
attached to the needle bar so as to cause it to vibrate in a vertical slide with
the motion required to carry a vertical needle through its portion of the sewing
process. A spring presser to hold the cloth is also attached to or alongside
of the needle bar slide box at what is known as the head of the machine. The
other or front end of the working shaft carries a revolving disc from the oppo-
site face of which, at or near its periphery, a shell looper projects beyond the
space reserved for the bobbin, so as to present its edge and point at the
reverse (or rear) side of the needle to secure its loop. This projecting looper,
by its rotation, describes the circumference of a lozenge-like space or cham-
ber, of which the disc face would represent the one side and the corresponding
plane of the needle's descent would represent the opposite side, within which
space the bobbin is held suspended by a suitably shaped adjustable holder
against the disc face. This holder is so placed and arranged as to be moved
with facility to permit the insertion of the bobbin in position between the
holder and the disc face, or to withdraw it therefrom. This holder also has a
special improvement to give the freest play to the passage over the bobbin of
the loop thread in having its holding surface that comes in contact with the
bobbin reduced, to, three or four points only, somewhat after the manner of the
tripod contact, by which a pottery glazier supports his saucers one within the
other. It will be seen that the looper, by reason of its shell-like form, will
rotate with a breadth of base equal to that of the bobbin. chamber directly
around the bobbin, when the latter is in position, so as to carry a well-dis-
tended loop that will permit of a considerable range of dimension and capacity,
in the bobbin. Oue peculiarity of a shell looper attached to a rotating disc

page_text: in the manner mentioned is to give, as it proceeds in its revolution, to every
loop a half turn or twist in distending it to encompass the bobbin, from
which peculiarity it results that while the looper rotates in the same direction
as that in which the feed advances, the regular lock-stitch is produced, but
when the looper is made to rotate in a direction counter to that of the feed
advance, then the regular "knot stitch" (before described) is formed, and
this principle and arrangement I propose to avail myself of in constructing
the machine when desired for the production of the "knot stitch," by which
capacity the advantage for many purposes, and benefit of using the machine
are greatly increased. Upon the working shaft behind the disc in some suit-
able position a compound heart cam, properly adapted to operate a feed,
whether a four motion or a three motion "feed," is attached, or as this system
also admits of being adapted to a cylinder or hollow arm the apparatus may
be adapted to operate a rotary feed if desired, and while I do not restrict
myself to any precise design or outline pattern of form for the machine now
under consideration, I prefer that in which the framework of the machine
resembles (when a platform is attached) in its general configuration the reverse
of the letter G. It is also proposed and intended in further adaptation of 'a
bobbin of the like description, to apply to or combine therewith a bobbin case
and a spiral or a helical bobbin case holder, so as to perform the office of
taking up and throwing off the loop from the bobbin in still a different manner,
yet with constant rotation motion.
The sixth head or modification of this Invention consists of an improved
construction and arrangement of a special portion of the sewing machine, in
relation to what are known as barrel cams and to the cam gear accompanying
them, and to their application and manner of working in sewing machines,
and this improvement is capable of being applied to sewing machines of
almost every description: Hitherto such barrel cams have been constructed
with cam ways or troughs, having parallel walls or sides, perpendicular, or
intended to be so, to the line of the shaft axis, and of having uniform side
surfaces throughout their entire depth; and the cam bowls running in them
have been in one dimension and of the like breadth, which is equivalent to
saying the like depth, as the cam. trough or channel which is cut in the
circumferential surface of the cylinder or barrel in which it is contained.
But as the smaller circle of the cylinder or barrel's diameter at the base of
the cam trough traverses a less distance than the outer diameter of the
barrel's surface at each revolution, while the cam bowl can only rotate
uniformly on an axis vertical or radial to both of those varying diameters, it
follows that the cam bowl must have more or less sledge resembling that of

page_text: railway carriage wheels upon a short curve in its movement over the cam
surfaces, and hence arises the peculiar noise, and the consequent friction,
thereby indicated, generally experienced with barrel cam driven sewing
machines.
The object of this improvement is to overcome these defects. This it is
proposed to carry into effect, firstly, in its most simple form, by simply
making the cam walls or sides bevel or converging, and upon the radial lines
of convergence corresponding to the diameter of the cam barrel. This will
give proper proportion and equal rotation for the cam bowl over the distances
travelled throughout the revolution. Although these are the true proportions
of the lines, yet this portion of the Invention may be taken advantage of by
any convergence of the cam-trough sides between the range
of perpendicular
and of true radial lines, according to the degree thereof.
'
It is proposed, however, to carry this improvement to a further development
with a view to secure the minimum of noise and of friction, so that the speed
and the durability of the machine may thereby be prodigiously increased and
extended. By means of what I call the improved compound" cams and
"compound" cam bowls in correspondence to work in them, the intention.
being that the cam bowl shall be divided into two, or made double, that is to
say, in two separate bowls having distinct rotations, yet which may together
be within the same dimensions as was formerly the one, can both rotate upon
cne stud, and therefore are called "compound," and which two bowls by
having slightly differing diameters, and by a corresponding difference in the
cam walls, will be caused to run so that one cam bowl shall run only upon
the one side of the cam trough upon which it works, and the other bowl shall
run only upon the other side upon which it works; and this may be availed of
to great benefit and advantage, either with perpendicular or with converging
walls or sides to the cam trough, according to the relative merits of each of
those methods. This is readily. effected by making one of the two halves of
the compound bowls of a less diameter than the other, and making the lower
balf of one side of the cam trough to project' a little, so as to diminish the
breadth of the lower half part of the cam trough in accordance. A somewhat
similar effect may be less advantageously obtained by substitution of a cam in
"relief" or raised outline, and by running upon each of the outer sides
thereof a bowl, each bowl attached to one end of the swivel piece that carries
them both, and plays upon a centre carrying the whole.
The last head or modification of this Invention consists of an improved
construction and arrangement of that portion of a sewing machine comprised
in the feed and feed gear, the object being to obtain exact, true, square;

page_text: vertical and lateral movements and surfaces, instead of rocking movements as
now produced, and the tumbling surfaces that they cause to be presented.
This it is intended to carry into effect by attaching the feed surface to or
connecting it with a double or treble sliding frame, according to the extent of
the variety of movements required, acting upon the well-known principle of
the "compound slide;" as for example, one frame that shall for instance carry
the feed surface piece to be made to slide laterally in a second frame that
slides vertically, and so on if a third motion is required, as for instance, to
effect a two-way or "duplex" feed, the compound slide principle being
retained throughout whatever arrangement of detail may be followed, and the
movements of which may be effectuated by any suitable means...
.
This improvement further comprises a subordinate modification, whereby
the feed surface having only lateral movements shall be contained or enclosed
within a separate moving surface having only vertical movements, and thereby
produce a compound "four motion feed.".
The object of the other part or branch of this Invention, relating to the
second class of single thread chain stitch sewing machines, is to apply, as far as
applicable, the foregoing general. arrangement, described under head the first
of machine, and adapt it to this class of sewing, by substituting in place of the
differential speed and of the under thread gear an equal rocking motion of the
secondary spindle, and a "simple" vibrated looper carried by it, so adjusted as
to chain or knit together into stitches the successive loops of the "single" thread
thrown out by the needle. This I propose to carry into effect by connecting the
primary rotating spindle by simple crank motion to the secondary spindle, and
attaching to the latter a "simple" crotchet looper to vibrate in combination
with the needle, the upper spindle head and needle gear remaining as before
mentioned.
And further, with the object of adapting either of the before-described
machines to be worked by hand, so as to dispense with treddle and stand, I
purpose to effect the same by introducing into either of such machines a
primary speed-geared driving wheel, having a suitable provision for the
apparatus to be turned by hand, and thus rendered a portable hand sewing
machine.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Edward Thomas Hughes in the Great Seal Patent Office on
the 23rd March 1866.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, EDWARD
THOMAS HUGHES, of the Firm of Hughes and Son, Patent Agents, 123,
Chancery Lane, London, send greeting.
:
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-third day of September, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-five, in the twenty-ninth year of
Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto
ime, the said Edward Thomas Hughes, Her special licence that I, the said
Edward Thomas Hughes, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such
others as I, the said Edward Thomas Hughes, my executors, administrators,
and assigns, should. at any time agree with, and no others, from time to
time and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should
and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom
of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an In-
vention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES," a communication to me from
abroad by Jean Louis Thénen, of 24, Rue de Dunkerque, Paris, in the
Empire of France, upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said
Edward Thomas Hughes, my executors or administrators, by an instrument
in writing. under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should
particularly 'describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and
in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to
be filed in the Great Seal. Patent Office within six calendar months next
and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
1 NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Edward Thomas Hughes, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to
be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the fol-
lowing stateinent (that is to say):-
This Invention consists of improvements in sewing machines, relating,
firstly, to that class of machines which weave two threads together to make
what is well known as the "lock stitch," also to the construction, applica-
tion, and combination of parts of such machines; and, secondly, to that class
5 of machines which, upon the principle of the stocking loom, knit a single thread
together so as to form what is well known as the "chain stitch;" and this
Invention comprises several modifications under the following heads :-
First, a new and improved construction, application, combination, and

page_text: arrangement of parts adapted, to a discoidal, lenticular, or other suitable
(though irregular) shaped bobbin, so employed as to serve the purpose of a
sewing shuttle of a rotating or of a "race" shuttle while merely suspended
without motion of its own, after the manner and upon the principle (used in
lace machines well known as the "Nottingham lace bobbin," and sometimes
as the "lace shuttle." This improvement in its entirety is herein, to distinguish
it, called the "compound" or "double spindle" machine, some of the
improveinents contained in which may be separately capable of application,
either wholly or in part, to other and different sewing machines, and
comprise,―
'
Second, a new and improved vibrating compound looper, also in combina-
tion therewith what is herein called an under side "take up "contrivance, and
the employment of the whole in combination with a bobbin of the description
and employed after the manner before mentioned.
Third, a new and improved. contrivance for operating an "upper side"
or "top. feed," also the combination thereof or of such a "feed" with the
double "spindle" or "shaft" system here described, and with an unoperated
bobbin or other stationary substitute of the before-mentioned description
rotating" or race shuttle, or the combination of either of the
for a +66
same.
"
""
Fourth, the combination of two spindles or working shafts and the gearing
thereof, the one operating the needle gear and the other the bottom gear, so-
that they work at different speeds and obtain the requisite relative time of
the combined movements of those parts, thereby dispensing with the use of
éanís or eccentrics, commonly used for that purpose in sewing machines, and
this combination and arrangement are capable of being adapted to a
platform" machine, or to what is well known as an "arm" or as a
cylinder" machine, and either to an "upper side" or "top" feed, or to an
"under side" feed, as the case may be.
66
"
"
The object of the first improvement constituting, as it does, a complete
machine, is specially in reference to the so-called stationary bobbin sewing
niachine to dispense with the cams, eccentrics, needle dwell, and the apparatus
ánd complications employed in connection therewith in all such machines as
hitherto constructed, by substituting in place thereof a totally different and it
is believed a more simple yet efficient and durable system of constructions
than heretofore used or known. And further, to secure. the combination
in a larger degree than heretofore of excellence and facility of production with
great simplicity, adaptability, and quality being considered of comparative.
cheapuess

page_text: The manner. in.. which it is proposed to carry these objects and effect is
exemplified in the following description of this portion of the Invention, in
which the before separately mentioned heads. are comprised, and the objects.
and methods thereof afterwards in turn severally mentioned and explained...>
Commencing with the first:-The form of the machine according to this
portion of the Invention is, such as to permit the body (whether for platform
or cylinder style) the standard, the neck. and, head stock, that is to say
the entire frame of the machine (if preferred), to be formed, of one single
piece of cored. casting. The general plan of the machine: consists of two
working spindles or shafts, one the primary working shaft directly actuated by
the prime motor (to which power may be imparted by a.driving band or other
suitable means), consisting of a pulley attached to one of its ends; the other,
a secondary working shaft subsidiary to and operated by the primary shaft ;
the separate special functions of these two shafts are severally explained under
their separate heads. It is well known. that in all vibrating motions. the
concussion of vibration (generally known under the cominoner mechanical
appellation of the "back. lash ") is always according to the weight of tho
vibrator and the distance moved by.equal velocities, of course increasing with
higher and higher velocity. In all of the so called stationary bobbin sewing
machines, so far as at present known in public.use, the entire long radius needle
arm, which is comparatively very heavy, is vibrated, and the bobbin looper,
which is comparatively very light and of diminutive radius, is rotated,, whereby,
the maximum of concussion of vibratory or." back lash" is clearly incurred.
In this Invention I have reversed this; I vibrate the looper, and dispense
with the vibrating needle arm, substituting in place thereof a rotating crank
motion from the primary spindle direct to the needle bar itself, by which I;
as clearly; secure the maximum of concussion.. The difference or advantage
in power and durability gained by this improved arrangement is very great;
and I believe that in this description of sewing machines having a vertically
suspended so-called stationary bobbin nothing but. the reverse, and exact
contrary of this improved. system, and. none other. than the vibrating, needle
arm or leyer, has ever before been used or known. I consider. this, an
important item of the Invention, and believe that a machine constructed
with proper workmanship. according to this portion of the Invention is
capable of working at the highest attainable velocity practically possible
for a sewing machine, and of securing a great economy of power or force
and greatly increased durability over those at present in public use. The
primary working shaft or spindle at its opposite or working end by a disc
and stud operates. a crank motion attached directly to the needle bar,

page_text: which is thereby vibrated in a vertical slide with a continual motion; that is
to say, without a "dwell," and vertically works a straight needle;. the primary
spindle further actuates a combined. presser and feed by means of a con-
trivance explained under head the third. The primary spindle at its other or
motive end is connected. with the secondary shaft by suitable gear, respecting
which various methods present themselves to me, of which I select for the
present illustration that of a crank working a quadrant, having a reciprocating
rotary motion and geared into a spur wheel attached to the secondary shaft.in
such proportion as to communicate to it, and through it to the looper which is
carried by it, a swifter or a differential rate of speed, so that although starting
at a different time or later, it yet shall overtake or come in with the needle in
its vibrations, and so as, by the completion of their motions together..in
combination with a tension upon both the upper and under threads, to effect
a more perfectly drawn stitch with greater uniformity in this class, that is to
say, in so-called stationary bobbin sewing machines than heretofore.
}
The object of the second improvement is,. firstly, to dispense with the
complications accompanying a rotating looper, which. complications include in
some machines a brush or some secondary apparatus to retain the loop distended
until the second or third following loop is formed, and in others. an
irregular motion or a "dwell" in the needle movement with consequent cam
apparatus and an involved upper. side "take up," involving also a continual
chafing friction upon the sewing thread. This object I purpose to carry into
effect by the substitution of a vibrating looper (which I call a compound
looper) having two unequal points or horns, and vibrating around the
suspended stationary bobbin, so as to seize, and throw, and leave the loop of
the needle thread partially round the bobbin, then withdrawing therefrom; and
then return back again to repeat the operation. And next, the object of what
is called the "under side" "take up" in combination with this last is to takė
up the slack of the spent loop and to move it out of the way of the looper
when in action. This it is purposed to carry into. effect by a counter-curve
horn, following in reverse direction: the return or counter vibration of: the
looper, but shaped so. as to project its outline ecliptically to the plane of the
looper's rotary vibration, and cause a curved spring. piece to push aside from
the needle's path the combined threads of the: bobbin, and the needle loop
which otherwise would remain in the way of the looper and which have always
proved an impediment difficulty to provide against in rotating looper machines.
And again, the object of the combination of all these is at each drawing of the
looper. always to pull the last preceding stitch. clean "home" and perfect it.
It also gives the further advantage that a "take up" on the upper side may

page_text: be dispensed with. This it is intended to carry into effect by the suitable
adjustment of the combined movements accompanied by tension upon the
under as well as the upper thread, and the peculiar effect secured by with-
drawing by vibration the looper from the loop, instead of rotating the looper
and throwing off the loop as hitherto practised, and thus to avail to the fullest
extent of the capacities of the so-called stationary bobbin system of sewing
machines.
The object of the third improvement is to obtain by the simplest mechanism
the proper working of an apparatus that shall combine a 66 presser" and
a "feed" in one instrument. An under side "feed" necessarily requires; to
obtain the like result, two separate instruments, that is to say, one for each of
these purposes; and all of this class, that is to say, all so-called stationary
bobbin sewing machines heretofore publicly known, have used an under side
feed, and generally in that form commonly known by the appellation of "the
four motion feed." The object of the combination of the aforesaid top feed
and apparatus with a bobbin such as described under head third is to secure
the more simple because condensed apparatus, and the advantages of a top
feed, and of sewing or stitching with such a bobbin as aforesaid in one and the
same machine; which I believe has never before been done. This I propose
to carry into effect by means of an instrument that shall serve instead and
perform the office of both the presser for holding the material sewn and of the
feed surface for advancing it along as sewn, which in the ordinary four motion
feed, or in any under side feed, require two separate instruments, one on each side
of the cloth or material being sewn ; and I operate such instrument by a very
simple contrivance, that is to say, a compound head cam upon the primary
spindle, passing through and working within a suitable aperture of the
instrument, serving as presser and as feed; and further, by a spring that
effects the return motion of the instrument as a "feed," and causes also the
elastic force of the instrument, in performing the office of a presser, as one
of the holding surfaces that keep the cloth in place for the thrust and
retraction of the needle at every stitch. And further also, by the combination:
of such feed and such contrivance with a bobbin and with a looper apparatus
as described herein, and with my improved double-shaft system, I notably
increase the adaptability to a greater variety of work of the whole as a sewing
machine over those of this class hitherto used by the public.
66
"
The object of the fourth improvement is to obtain, by the simplest
mechanism, the requisite relative time in the combined movements of the
needle or upper thread gear and of the under thread gear, so that the sewing
instruments, in this instance consisting of the needle and the looper, shall;"

page_text: however they commence their respective movements, always terminate them
together in conjunction, so that the proper simultaneous strain of both threads
at the close, essential, to a properly drawn stitch, is secured; it being well
known to be necessary that the needle must first rise sufficiently through the
fabric being sewn to draw, its thread into a buckle or loop, and that after that
the other sewing instrument (in this instance the looper herein described
must commence to seize the loop, then draw and throw it, then leave it over
the bobbin, and perform also whatever other functions pertain to such instru-
ment in time to complete its motion simultaneously with that of the needle,
and ensure the proper final strain of both upon the thread, and yet retain
within the remainder of the rotation to the original starting point to
recommence the same operation, and so on continually. This I propose to
carry into effect by a simple contrivance to impart a differential speed to the
two working spindles, in lieu of the methods by means of cams, eccentrics,
and other contrivances heretofore practised to attain the same end in sewing
machines..
The fifth head or modification of this Invention consists of another adapta
tion of the so-called stationary bobbin system of sewing machines, constituting
also in its combination and arrangement an entire machine, and capable, by.a
slight change or modification of its arrangement, of effecting either that which
is well known as the "lock stitch" or that other which is also well known as
the "knot stitch," in which last each stitch is interlocked after the manner
that seaman's, knot nautically known as a "half stitch."
The object of this fifth improvement is to combine with a bobbin of the
description before mentioned and the accompanying under side, gear, and with
such "knot stitch" modification, and to adapt also to the production of a two
threaded stitch a graceful as well as useful general frame of machine that can
be rendered noiseless or nearly noiseless, and that has proved efficient and
popular for operating, a single thread chain stitch. The manner in which
it is proposed to carry this into effect is exemplified in the following specifi
cation of this portion of the Invention:-The general plan of the machine
consists of but one working spindle or shaft, which rotates at the under side,
that is beneath the level of the platform, and which alone operates, by
direct connection, all the sewing instruments, that is to say, the needle, the
looper, and the feed. The spindle or shaft may be driven by a pulley worked
by any convenient means, and as upon this plan now proposed a "dwell" in
the needle motion is desirable, a disc cam, suitable to produce, the requisite
irregular motions of the needle, is attached to and rotated by the working
Spindle at or near its outer end, and so as to directly vibrate in accordance
:

page_text: therewith a vertical slide or bar carrying an arm attached in any convenient
mode to the shorter arm of the needle lever, which is rocked upon a stud borne
by the standard or frame, and which at the extremity of its longer arm is
attached to the needle bar so as to cause it to vibrate in a vertical slide with'
the motion required to carry a vertical needle through its portion of the
sewing, process. A spring presser to hold the cloth is also attached to or
alongside of the needle bar slide box at what is known as the head' of the
machine. The other or front end of the working shaft carries a revolving
disc, from the opposite face of which at or near its periphery a shell looper
projects beyond the space reserved for the bobbin so as to present its edge and
point at the reverse (or rear) side of the needle to secure its. loop; this'
projecting loopers by its rotation describes the circumference of a lozenge-like'
space or chamber of which the disc face would represent the one side and the
corresponding plane of the needle's descent would represent the opposite side,'
within which space the bobbin is held suspended by a suitably shaped
adjustable holder against the disc face. This holder is so placed and arranged
as to be moved with facility to permit the insertion of the bobbin in position
between, the holder and the disc face or to withdraw it therefrom. 'This?
holder also has a special. improvement to give the freest play to the passage
over, the bobbins of the loop thread in having its holding surface that comes in
contact with: the bobbin reduced to three or four points only, somewhat after the
manner of the tripod contact by which a pottery glazier supports his saucers'
one within the other... It will be seen that the looper by reason of its shell-
like, form, will rotate with a breadth of base equal to that of the bobbin
chamber directly around the bobbin when the latter is in position, so as to
carry a well distended loop that will permit of a considerable range of dimen-
sion and capacity in the bobbin. One peculiarity of a shell looper attached
to a rotating disc in the manner mentioned is to give as it proceeds in its,
revolution, to every loop a half turn or twist in distending it to encompass the
bobbin, from which peculiarity it results that while the looper. rotates in the
same direction as that in which the feed advances the regular lock stitch is
produced, but when the looper is made to rotate in a direction counter to that
of the feed advance then the regular "knot stitch" (before described). is
formed; and this principle and arrangement I propose to avail myself of ID
constructing, the machine when desired for the production of the "knot stitch,"
by, which capacity the advantage for many purposes. and benefit of using the
machine are greatly increased. Upon the working shaft behind the disc a
compound heart cam, properly adapted to operate a feed, whether a four
motion or a three motion "feed," is attached; as this system also admits of

page_text: being adapted to a cylinder or hollow arm the apparatus may be adapted to
operate a rotary feed if desired; and while I do not restrict myself to any
precise design or outline pattern of form for the machine now under considera-i
tion, I prefer that in which the framework of the machine presents the:
general configuration represented in the Drawings herewith.
The sixth head or modification of this Invention consists of an improved:
construction and arrangement of a special portion of the sewing machine, in:
relation to what are known as barrel cams, and to the cam gear accompanying:
them, and to their application and manner of working in sewing machines,
and this improvement is capable of being applied to sewing machines of almost
every description. Hitherto such barrel cams have been constructed with:
cam ways or troughs, having parallel walls or sides perpendicular or intended
to be so to the line of the shaft axes and having uniform side surfaces
through heir entire depth, and the cam bowls running in them have been
in one dimension and of the like breadth, which is equivalent to saying the
like depth as the cam trough or channel, which is cut in the circumferential
surface of the cylinder or barrel in which it is contained. But as the smaller
circle of the cylinder or barrel's diameter at the base of the cam trough
traverses a less distance than the outer diameter of the barrel's surface at such
revolution, while the cam bowl can only rotate uniformly on an axis vertical
or radial to both of these varying diameters; it follows that the cam bowl in
traversing the cam way must have (more or less sledge resembling that of
railway carriage wheels upon a short curve), in its movement over the cam
surfaces, and hence arises the peculiar noise and the consequent friction
thereby indicated, generally experienced with barrel cam driven sewing
machines.
The object of this improvement is to overcome these defects. This it is
proposed to carry into effect, firstly, in its most simple form, by simply making
the cam walls or sides bevell or converging, and upon the radial lines of
convergence corresponding to the diameter of the cam barrel. This will give
proper proportion and equal rotation for the entire dimension of the cam bowl
over the distances travelled throughout the revolution. Although these are
the true proportions of the lines, yet this portion of the Invention may be
taken advantage of proportionably by any convergence of the cam trough
sides between the range of perpendicular and of true radial lines, according to
the degree thereof. It is proposed, however, to carry this improvement to s
further development with a view to secure the minimum of noise and o
friction, so that the speed and the durability of the machine may thereby be
prodigiously increased and extended. By means of what I call the improved

page_text: "compound
cams and "compound" cam bowls in correspondence to work.
in them, the intention being that the cam bowl shall be divided into two or
made double, that is to say, in two separate bowls having distinct rotations,
yet which may together be within the same dimensions as was formerly the
One, can both rotate upon one stud and therefore are called "compound;"
and which two bowls by having, slightly differing diameters and by a corre-
sponding difference in the cam walls will be caused to run so that one caty
bowl shall run only upon the one side of the cam trough upon which it works,
and the other bowl shall run only upon the other side upon which it works, and
this may be availed of to great benefit and advantage, either with perpen-
dicular or, with converging walls or sides to the cam trough, according to the
relative merits of each of those methods. This is readily effected by making
one of the two halves of the compound bowls of a less diameter than the
other, and making the lower half of one side of the cam trough to project a
little so as to diminish the breadth of the lower half part of the cam trough in
accordance. A somewhat similar effect may be less advantageously obtained
by substitution of a cam in "relief" or raised outline, and by running upon
each of the outer sides thereof a bowl, each bowl attached to one end of the
swivel piece that carries them both and plays upon a centre carrying the
whole...
The last head or modification of this Invention consists of an improved
construction and arrangement of that portion of a sewing machine comprised
in the feed and feed gear. The object being to obtain exact, true, square,
vertical, and lateral movements and surfaces, instead of rocking movements as
now produced, and the tumbling surfaces that they cause to be presented.
This it is intended to carry into effect by attaching the, feed surface to or
connecting it with a double or treble sliding frame according to the extent of
the variety of movements required, acting upon the well-known principle of
the "compound slide," as, for example, oue frame that shall, for instance,
carry the feed surface piece to be made to slide laterally in a second frame
that slides vertically, and so on; if a third motion is required, as, for instance,
to effect a two-way or "duplex" feed, the compound slide principle being
retained throughout whatever arrangement of detail may be followed, and the
movements of which may be effectuated by any suitable means.
The object of the other part or branch of this Invention relating to the
second class of single thread chain stitch sewing machines is to apply, as far
as applicable, the foregoing general arrangement described under head the
first of machine, and adapt it to this class of sewing by substituting, in place
of the differential speed and of the under-thread gear, an equal rocking motion

page_text: "
"
of the secondary spindle and a simple vibrated looper carried by it, so
adjusted as to chain or knit together into stitches the successive loops of the
"single" thread thrown out by the needle. This I propose to carry into
effect by connecting the primary rotating spindle by simple crank motion to
the secondary spindle, and attaching to the latter a "simple" crochet looper
to vibrate in combination with the needle, the upper spindle head and
needle gear remaining as before mentioned. And, further, with the object
of adapting either of the before described machines to be worked by band
so as to dispense with treddle and stand, I purpose to effect the same by
introducing into either of such machines a primary speed geared driving wheel
having a suitable provision for the apparatus to be turned by hand, and thus
rendered a portable hand sewing machine.
.
..I
In order that this Invention may be more fully understood. I will proceed to
more particularly describe the same, referring for that purpose to the several
Figures on the accompanying four Sheets of Drawings.
Figs. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8, Sheet 1, relate to the first bead, com.
prising also the second, third, and fourth heads of the Invention.
Fig. 1, Sheet 1, represents a side elevation of the machine under this head
of the Invention; Fig. 2 a front elevation of same, and Fig. 8 a sectional
side elevation. The frame or body of the machine B, S, N, H, is of a single
piece of metal casting, comprising in one the base B, the standard S, the
neck N, and the head stock H, which latter carries a bollow cylindrical or
lozenge-shaped box-hend X, within which the feed and needle gear are con-
tained, and are operated by the rotating disc a, which is carried by the
primary working shaft b, which runs within the neck, and is driven by the
pulley c, to which motion is imparted by a driving cord from a treddle wheel
or any other convenient motor, the pulley c with its driving cord being also
contained within the standard; and the secondary working shaft d with its
gear running within the body of the base, it results that the actuating
mechanical apparatus is wholly covered from exposure and from view, and is
contained within the substance or body of the machine, so that contact with
the working parts is as far as possible avoided. The rotating disc a actuates
by a crank stud the rod e, connected by a hollow pin f, which also serves for
a conducting tube for the top spool or needle thread to the needle bar g, to
which is thus given a constant reciprocating vertical motion, causing the
straight vertical needle carried by the needle bar to vibrate in correspondence
through the needle gorge or aperture, for the needle's passage in the platform h
of the machine, through which the needle descends far enough for the loop of
"the needle thread, which when the fabric to be sewn is pierced is formed in

page_text: the first portion of the retraction of the needle by its upward motion to be
entered and seized by the vibrating compound looper i, the motion of which
is so timed as to catch the needle's loop at the precise moment of the needle's
rise suitable for it by means of the arrangement of parts further on described.
The pulley c serves also as a crank disc, carrying.a stud. j, which works the
rod k, imparting through it a reciprocating movement to the tooth-geared
quadrant ; this quadrant works reciprocally-a pinion m, attached to the
secondary spindle d, which carries at its other end the compound looper i, to
which it communicates the requisite reciprocation for its office. The looper
has two horns; the longer of which serves to seize the loop offered by the
needle, and the shorter to detain the loop thread while being distended by
the looper, and by its circular movement is drawn over and nearly around the
bobbin case n, and then by its return movement the looper withdraws itself.
out of and leaves the distended loop in such a position that it will be drawn by
the next stitch loop in going through the like operation clear off from the
bobbin and home to its place in the complete stitch of the seam. When the
double thread of the loop and the bobbin thread are in the position in which
they are left by this retraction. of the looper, they would lay in the way of the
needle, occupying space in the plane of the needle's descent; to remedy this
and to push them aside out of the needle path a novel contrivance is availed
of by means of an instrument p, which is, held by a within contained slight
spring, with just sufficient force to remain until again moved. Wherever it
may be placed, and the shape of the stud q of the looper i is such as, by the
retraction of the looper, to push the blade edge of the instrument outward so
as to pass ecliptically through and beyond the plane of the looper's reciproca-
tion, and carry with it the three ply of threads just mentioned, and hold them
out of the way of the needle and of the looper's point until after the latter
has seized aud passed on with the new succeeding loop beyond the possibility
of entangling or catching the spent loop and thread, then the crotch of the
fork of the compound looper pressing against the curved heel of the blade of
the instrument p exerts a lateral force upon it that causes it to be pushed
back or returned to its starting place on the other side of the plane of recipro-
cation of the looper and of that of the needle also, when it of course repeats
this operation with every stitch. The bobbin case n, Fig. 8, has a segment
of its lenticular disc edge cut away, to afford space in which are perforated
a series of holes for the passage of the thread to which tension is given
according to the number of convolutions given to the thread by threading it
through two or more of these holes; in the bobbin case n is placed the
bobbin ŕ loosely enough to allow free play to unreel itself. The feed is effected

page_text: by the serrated surfaces or presser foot carried by the presser bar t, to which
the requisite movement is imparted by the two cams u, v, forming together
what I have called a compound heart cam, the cam u giving it the lift, and
the cam v giving it the progressive feeding along movement, and the spring w
by the peculiar pressure it exerts by the application of its force to the shoulder
piece of the presser bar t causes it to rock upon the slot pin y, so as while
descending to also return laterally to its starting point, and thus it effects the
return movement of the under side serrated presser foots. The length of
the throw of the bar t, and consequently of the distance fed along for each
stitch, is regulated by a thumbscrew z. The presser foot is raised from the
platform when required by hand by a lift and thumb-piece as ordinarily
used. The functions and operation of the remaining portion of the machine
will be recognized by all conversant with this class of machinery.
Figs. 9, 10, 11, and 12, Sheet 2, relate to the fifth bead of this Invention,
under another adaptation of a stationary bobbin machine.
Fig. 9 represents a side elevation, with a portion of the platform plate cut
away to exhibit the position of the feeding surfaces, also of a portion of the
frame of the machine to exhibit the relative spaces of some of the internal
parts. The entire frame is of one piece of metal casting, having a general
configuration of a reversed letter G, comprising in one the base, the standard,
neck, and head stock, and indicated by the letters B, S, N, H. The head
stock is made up into a head by the addition of a head piece X forming one-
half part of the slide box, and screwed to its place, affording facility of access
to the slide bars for the needle and for the presser, and to their fittings
carried within it. The construction of this slide box is shown in section in
Fig. 18, Sheet 38, of the Drawings.
The prime mover of the machine represented in these Figures is the shaft a,
which is driven by the pulley b, the wheel for which is also made of a depth
to contain a disc cam working on its inner face, represented in Figure 24,
Sheet 8. This cam operates a bowl and stud c running in a vertical slot d,
and attached to the slide bar e, to which is thus communicated a vertical
reciprocating motion; the slide bar e works also in a made-up slide box
having a half-box plate attached by screws, affording facility of access to this
slide bar and its fittings also. The slide bar e is coupled to a driving rod f,
the other end of which is coupled to the shorter arm of the needle lever g,
which is rocked upon the pin h carried in bearing brackets borne by the
frame of the machine. This lever s connected in a novel manner with the
needle bar i by a swivel stock and plunger j, the play of which permits its
adjustment to the circular sweep of the lever, and the vertical motion of the

page_text: stock.
needle bar which is fixed in a swivel piece k which swings in the swivel
This arrangement is believed to have decided advantages over any of
those at present in use in connection with a sliding needle bar.
"
:
Fig. 10 represents a front elevation of the same machine with a portion of
the platform plate cut away to show the position and action of the serrated
feed surfaces.
Fig. 11 represents a rear elevation of the same with the space occupied
by the pulley wheel shown in dotted line in order to uncover the positions of
the working parts in connection with the needle motion disc cam.
Fig. 12 represents a top view or plan of the same.
o
The single shaft a effects all the other movements of the machine by.
appliances attached to its other end, comprising the feeding (which in this is:
at the under side) and the interlocking of the shuttle or bobbin thread in the
loop of the needle thread.
. The seventh head of the Invention is embodied and illustrated in the feed:
gear of the machine represented in these Figures, which is effected by a
compound slide frame, one frame sliding laterally in another that slides
vertically, the details of which are further shown and illustrated in Figs. 21,
22, and 27, Sheet 3. In case that a third motion is required a third slide
frame can be introduced and added to the two, to move in the required
direction upon this principle.
The two slide frames are operated by two heart cams fastened upon the
shaft, and shown in Fig. 26, Sheet 3. The cam / operates the vertical slide
frame m, the quantity of the lift of which is shown by the dotted line in
Fig. 27, Sheet 3.
..
The cam n, Fig. 26, Sheet 3, operates the lateral slide frame p, which
slides in and is carried by the first slide frame m, and the quantity of the
lateral slide movement is regulated by the thumbscrew q which moves the
slide piece r, by which the throw is diminished or adjusted as required.
The details of this apparatus are further shown and illustrated in Figs. 21.
22. and 25, Sheet 3, of the Drawings.
Of the vertical slide frame m the two extreme sectional ends are shown in
Fig. 21, Sheet 3, through which slides the lateral slide frame p, shown in
face in Fig. 27, Sheet 3; the same are shown in side view, the vertical
slide frame m passing through and sliding in the stock B, represented in
section in Fig. 22, and in Fig. 23 are shown in top view. The vertical frame m
is firmly sustained in position by slide clamps upon the stock B, so as to move
with perfect steadiness.
In Fig. 26 are shown in top view the cams and n in position, which
.

page_text: actuate respectively the slide frames m and p; the arrangement of which is
shewn: in back view of the apparatus in Fig. 27, Sheet 3. In operation
the cam having lifted the slide m, which carries with it the lateral slide p,
which last carries on its front limb the serrated surface plates; the cam n
then propels in a lateral direction the slide p already elevated by the slide m,
by which combined motions it results that the serrated surface plates, which
is borne by the slide frame p, moves up and forward in the manner required,
so that the plates, by gripping against the cloth which is held down upon it
by the presser foot t, moves or "feeds" it along the measure of each stitch,
returning again by positive motion of the cams instead of by return' springs
to its starting point to renew the operation with every stitch. The serrated
surfaces are applied. one upon each side of the needle: path, as shown in
Fig. 81, as they appear when in position in the platform plate. "
B
The shaft a next carries a disc cam u, shown in position in Fig. 9,
Sheet 2; and is shewn in detail in Figs. 17 in side, 26 in top, and 24 in face,
viz., in side, top, and front views, the office of which cam is to give vertical
motion to the bowl stud v, Figs, 17, 18, and 19, through the space indicated
by the dotted line 4, 5. "This stud carries a slide w 'running firmly in the
stock B, which on its other head carries the pitman x, Figs. 17, 18, and 19,
which communicates a variable vibrating motion to the segmental rocking
plate shewn in Figs. 17 in side, Fig. 18 face, and Fig. 19' rear views, and
which carries the under side take-up or thread guard, which performs an
important function in the 'sewing process, and is seen projecting a circular
or partially cylindrical shell over and beyond the looper in Fig. 17, and
has a peculiar aperture and form, shown in plan representing it as laid
out flat, like a riband, in Fig. 20, and the precise operation will presently
be explained; it is also shown in position in Figs. 9 and 10. The cylinder a
then passes through and has bearings in the stock B, and next and finally
carries the 'looper disc a' attached to its extreme end, shown Fig. 15 detached
in face, and in Fig. 16 in profile, and seen in position in Fig. 10. In Fig. 16
the bobbin case b¹ is shewn in the relative place it occupies when in position,
in which it is retained and held by the holding surfaces c¹ of the bobbin case
holder frame d', the relative position of which is seen in the three dotted line
figures in Fig. 15, and in the dotted circles in the profile view Fig. 16.
The looper disc a' carries projecting from its face a shell-formed plate which
I call the shell looper, the form of which is shown projected on the face of the
dise a' in Fig. 16, and which carries also a counter curve horn e¹, the office
of which is to assist in holding and controlling the giving off of the last pre-
ceding spent loop.

page_text: .
The result of the combined operation of these contrivances is, that when;
the needle, the relative position of which is seen in Figs. 15, 16, 17, and
20, descends and has risen and formed its loop, the looper advances and enters
the loop, which by reason of the properties obtained by the form of the looper,
is distended to its full breadth, receiving a half turn by its change of position
in the progress of the looper's revolution, and drawn around and over the
bobbin case. At this stage the take-up or thread-guard x, through the aperture.
of which the threads also pass, takes an important part in completing the stitch,,
and at the same time keeping the threads out of the way of the looper and of
the needle path. This guard has an oscillating movement, the latitude of
which is indicated by the dotted lines in Fig. 18, and is so timed that at the
moment just mentioned the threads are passed from the needle hole over that;
portion of its aperture marked 6, Fig. 20, the position of the needle hole being,
shown at the small ; at this stage of the movements the guard swiftly,
completes its oscillation, thereby straining all the threads, to tighten the stitch;;
and after the looper point, has passed on in its continued revolution, the guard,
retires beyond its last. starting point to the other extreme of its oscillation to,
recover the threads, and then partially oscillates again to resume its place in
relation to the position of the needle, as seen in Fig. 20.
The bobbin case b¹ is of a peculiar shape, having directly across its back a
partially cylindrical projection, Figs. 16, 26, and 29, which enables it to be,
properly and with sufficient freedom for the thread play by a single point of
contact against the disc plate surface by three points of contact at its back,
being the projecting rings upon the bars g', of the bobbin case holder,
frame d¹, Figs. 28 & 29, which slides freely in the sub-platform of the stock B,,
Figs. 9 and 10, and has an elastic force by means of an elastic. band passes
around the stud and pin j, to hold, against the bobbin case.. This stud
forms part of a secondary slide in the holder-frame floor, which can be played
by the lever so as to readily allow the dismounting or replacing of the
bobbin case.
Fig. 36 shows a section of the standard through the dotted lines 7, 8,
Fig. 35, of the neck through the lines 9,0; Fig. 34, of the needle lever,
through the lines 11, 12: these shapes being calculated with a view to the
maximum of strength.
: .
Fig. 13 represents in section the slide box bead ; Fig. 14 represents
the presser bar A, which slides, within the box head, together with the
pressure foot m¹ and Fig. 30 represents the configuration of the latter, by a
top view.
Fig. 32 represents the shell looper reverse placed to effect the knot stitch,

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and Fig. 33 represents the shell looper adapted to sew a single thread 'in
loop stitch, when no bobbin or second thread is used.
Figs. 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, and 42 relate to and illustrate the sixth head of
the Invention.
Fig. 37, Sheet 3, represents the usual cylinder or barrel cain, in which
heretofore the cam troughs have always been cut of the form or shape shown
at a, the sectional plane of which is represented in the dotted lines of the
circles in Fig. 38, which serve to demonstrate that the respective distances
traversed by the two circles are, when extended in a straight line, as the
respective lengths of the two lines T, T, and U, U, Fig. 41, and the cam
bowls hitherto used are of the configuration shown at d, Fig. 38. My
improvement changes the cam-trough shape to that shown at b, Fig. 37, and
of the bowl to that shown at e, Fig. 38, and still further developes by making
the bowl double or in two, as shown at f for the bevel, and at g for the
straight side bowls, Fig. 38; for this the cam-trough shape is again changed
to that shewn at c, Fig. 37, the attachment of the compound bowls to run in:
which to their lever is shown at Figs. 40 and 39.
Fig. 42 represents a cam in relief with outside compound swivel bowls run:
upon it, and before referred. to.
Figs. 43, 44, and 45, Sheet 4, of the Drawings relate to and illustrate other
or second branch of this Invention.
...
Fig. 43 represents a side elevation; Fig. 44 a sectional ditto; and Fig. 45
the like in an end view; the head box and head gear are similar to those of
the machine represented in Figs. 9, 10, and 11, and this also works the
double spindle plan. This machine sews only with one thread, and vibrates
a simple looper for seizing and knitting into loop stitches the needle thread,
and after the preceding description the operation is sufficiently illustrates
for persons familiar with this class of machinery without further explication.
When desired this plan of machine frame permits a hand-turned wheel to be
introduced and added with suitable gear to be geared to a cog wheel of the
cylinder, and thus forms one of the most convenient and efficient portable
sewing machines, to be set upon any table and be turned by hand, that have
yet appeared.
.
*
Having now fully described this Invention as communicated to me, and
necessarily used to illustrate the same various parts of machinery already
known and used, and to which I make no claim, I desire it to be understood
that what I claim is, the application to sewing machines of all or of any of the
several branches and heads of the Invention, as herein in the beginning of
this Specification mentioned and set forth for the purpose and after the

page_text: manner herein described, and comprising under the seven different heads of
the first branch, and under the second branch herein-before recited.
In witness whereof, I, the Edward Thomas Hughes, have hereunto set my
band and seal, this Twenty-third day of March, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-six.
E. T. HUGHES. (L.S.)