IMPROVEMENTS IN THE METHOD OF STITCHING LAPPED AND BUTTED SEAMS, AND OF STITCHING SHANK BUTTONS ON TO FABRICS
Year: 1881

page_text: 4
LETTERS PATENT to Raphael Hunter Brandon, of No. 1, Rue Laffitte, Paris,
in the Republic of France, Engineer and Patent Agent, for an Invention of
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE METHOD OF STITCHING LAPPED AND BUTTED SEAMS,
AND OF STITCHING SHANK BUTTONS ON TO FABRICS." A communication
from abroad by the Morley Sewing Machine Company, Charles A. Sinclair,
Treasurer, of the City of Holyoke, County of Hampden, Massachusetts, United
States of America.
OF
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION filed by the said Raphael Hunter Brandon at
the Office of the Cominissioners of Patents on the 19th September 1881.
RAPHAEL HUNTER BRANDON, of No. 1, Rue Laffitte, Paris, in the Republic of
France, Engineer and Patent Agent. "CERTAIN NEW AND USEFUL IMPROVE-
MENTS IN THE METHOD OF STITCHING LAPPED AND BUTTED SEAMS, AND
STITCHING SHANK BUTTONS ON TO FABRICS." A communication from abroad
by the Morley Sewing Machine Company, Charles A. Sinclair, Treasurer, of the
City of Holyoke, County of Hampden, Massachusetts, United States of America.
My Invention relates to a method of sewing in lap-seam work by carrying
double threaded stitches across the edge of the overlapped piece of fabric, and in
sewing butted seam stitches carrying said double thread stitches across the
meeting edges of the fabric, and in sewing on shank buttons, causing said double
threaded, diagonal, or cross stitches to be made through the shank of a button
which has been placed in proper position therefor upon the fabric.
My improvement in the art or method of stitching lap and butted seam work,
and in stitches for sewing on buttons, &c., will hereinafter be fully described, and
then specifically designated by the claim.
In the Drawing forming part of this Specification,-
Figure 1 is a view on an enlarged scale of said stitches as they appear upon

page_text: fabric whose edges are united by a double lapseam, in which is shewn the form of
said stitches upon both sides thereof, the cross stitch upon the under side being.
shewn in dotted lines.
Figure 2 is a similar view of said stitches as they appear upon fabric whose
edges are united by a single lap seam, in which the stitches do not pass over
either edge of the fabric.
Figure 3 is a similar view of said stitches as they appear upon fabric whose
edges are united by passing the said stitches across the meeting edges thereof and
through a stay-piece laid over the seam.
Figure 4 is a similar view of said stitches sewed through the shanks of buttons
thereon.
Figure 5 is an enlarged skeleton view of said stitches separate from the
fabric.
The stitching viewed from the upper side of the fabric is a double threaded
cross stitch, and seen from the under side shows two lines of stitches substantially
at right angles to the direction of the cross stitches on the upper side, and of said
two lines of stitches one is composed of a line of single thread intermediate
between said cross stitches, and the other of a line of double threaded loops
running from cross stitch to cross stitch and interlooping one with the other.
In operation the thread starting at c in the material is passed through it by an
eyed needle, whence it is taken by a hooked needle, which passes up through the
fabric at d and draws it. down through the material, at the same point doubling
the thread in so doing, and the loop so formed by the action of said hooked needlo
has the succeeding loop passed through it, as shown in Figures 1, 3, and 5. The
line of single thread parallel to the line of said loops is laid as the needle passes
from point to point in the material to form the stitches.
The dotted line 2 in Figure 1 indicates the edge of the underlying piece of
material, as does the dotted line 3 in Figure 2.
This stitch is especially useful in uniting the overlapping edges of fabric, as in
Figure 1, by passing the cross stitches from quite beyond the edge of the upper
piece of material beyond the edge of the underlying piece, and also by passing the
. stitches through the over and underlying edges of the fabric, as in Figure 2, but
_not_outside of thic-cdgos-thereof, as-in-Figure-1.
The samples of stitching shown in Figures 1 and 2 illustrate an application
of this stitch to sail sewing and the like heavy work, for which it is particularly
adapted and useful, and unites such material most strongly.
The work illustrated in Figure 3 shews a manner of sewing by this stitch,
which is particularly valuable on leather work, and it may be used advantageously
on heavy textile fabrics. In said Figure a stay-strip h is applied over the butted
edges of the material on one side thereof, and the parallel lines of stitches are
formed upon said stay-strip, as shewn, and the cross stitches upon the opposite
face of the material over the meeting edges of the two pieces of fabric.
In Figure 4 is illustrated the position of shank buttons relative to this stitch
when secured thereby to fabric. In this Figure is shewn a stitch 5 by the side of
cach button. This stitch is one of the regular series of stitches, and is taken near
the button to prevent the thread which forms the button stitch from slipping in
the fabric when the button is drawn upon.
What I claim as my Invention is,
The method described of sewing stitches in fabrics, consisting in passing the
needle thread up through the fabric at c, then from c carrying a double thread
across the fabric, passing said double thread down through the fabric at d,
interlooping said thread, and forming upon the underside of said fabric under the
ends of said cross stitches two parallel lines of stitches, one of said parallel lines
consisting of a single thread intermediate between said cross stitches and the

page_text: second line of said stitches, consisting of double threaded loops interlooped one
with the other, substantially as shown and described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Raphael Hunter Brandon, have hereunto set
my hand and scal, this Thirteenth day of September, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and eighty one.