Improvements relating to the Colouring of Textile Fabrics and Yarns, and Apparatus therefor.
Year: 1899

page_text: Date of Application, 7th Mar., 1899-Accepted, 22nd Apr., 1899
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements relating to the Colouring of Textile Fabrics and Yarns,
and Apparatus therefor.
I, JOHN WILLIAM FRIES, of Salem, County of Forsyth, State of North Carolina,
United States of America, Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
It is the object of my invention to enable textile materials to be colored (pre-
ferably in the web) so that they may be colored, starched, dried and calendered
with one continuous operation and without handling.
In carrying out my invention I provide a suitable apparatus for receiving
a web of textile material and after smoothing it out laterally, subjecting it to a
dye bath containing a viscous or syrupy dyeing size, and thereafter subjecting the
fabric so impregnated with the coloring matter to the action of pressure rolls
which erform the dual duty of expelling the air from the interstices of the
I
fabric and forcing the coloring size through and upon the yarn or threads making
up the fabric. This operation may be repeated, if so desired, to secure the
deposition of more coloring matter, which might be advantageous under some
conditions of working. The body of the dyeing size is composed of starchy ingre-
dients so that it imparts a stiffening tendency to the fabric being dyed simul-
taneously with the completion of the dyeing process. The fabric so treated to the
dyeing size, and with the excess thereof removed, is then passed to a series of
drying cylinders, or other suitable drying devices, over or through which it is
passed and by which it is thoroughly dried. After the drying operation, the
fabric may be passed through calendering or finishing rolls to impart a finished
appearance to it before it is rolled or folded for shipment.
My improvements will be better understood by reference to the accompanying
drawings, in which :-
Fig. 1 is a side elevation of a dyeing machine embodying my improvements;
Fig. 2 is a side elevation of that portion of Fig. 1 which directly applies the
coloring matter to the fabric:
Fig. 3 is a plan view of same; and
Fig. 4 is an enlarged view of a portion of the spreading devices shown in
Fig. 3.
A is a roll of cloth. The cloth T passes upward over a spreading device B of
suitable construction, designed to draw the web out laterally while it is fed
forward and to remove the creases.
The fabric T after leaving the spreading devices B passes through the printing
or dyeing mechanism C, and thence to the drying cylinders D) of the drying
machine, and finally, when dried, to the calendering rolls E, from which it passes
to the winding mechanism F, by which it is again rolled up. The drying cylin-
A suitable variable speed band
ders D may be of any ordinary construction.
pulley D is employed to vary the speed of rotation of the cylinders so as to cause
them to have their speed adjusted to suit the travel of the web T. Referring new

page_text: to the means for imparting the coloring and stiffening materials to the fabric,
we have two sets of pressure rolls H, H, the pressure of which is imparted by
levers I and weights i. By this means the pressure may be varied by simply
adjusting the position of the weights i, but any other mode of applying pressure
to the two rolls H, H, may be employed. Arranged below the said pressure
rolls H, H, is a dyeing-size vat L carried on the main frame G.
M are guide rolls carried on the ends of inverted U-shaped arms m secured to
transverse shafts N, rocked by means of the hand wheels N¹ for the purpose of
lifting the rolls M out of or inserting them into the dyeing-size. They are shown
in normal position with the web passing about them in Fig. 2; and also at the
left hand side one of these rolls M is indicated in dotted lines as withdrawn.
The shafts N are each provided with ratchet wheels with which pawls o lock
for holding the shafts against rotation, and thereby maintaining the rolls M in
a submerged condition in the dyeing size. There are two of these rolls M arranged
at opposite ends of the vat, and so that the fabric T passes under one of them
through the size, thence upward between one set of rolls H, H, thence down-
ward around the other guide roll M, and thence upward between the other pair
of pressure rolls H, H, and finally to the drying cylinders D.
The web T after passing from the spreader B passes about the spreading
barsk, of a second spreader 1 forming part of the machine C as indicated in
dotted lines in Fig. 2. This spreader consists of two bars k, k, having their
opposite faces provided with oblique ribs, as shown in Fig. 4 and extending
obliquely in opposite directions on either side of the center line as shown in Fig. 3.
The fabric is stretched laterally as it passes over these bars. These bars may be
adjusted through the hand wheels K, and any suitable locking device or means
for holding these bars in adjusted nosition may be used, such for example, as
suitable pawl and ratchet wheels. The stretched fabric passes downward into the
hath of dye size, and after being guided about the first roller M it passes upward
between the first pair of squeeze rolls H, H. As the dye size is of a syrupy or
viscous nature it is evident that it does not become thoroughly impregnated in
the fabric until the same passes between the pressure rolls H. H. In passing
between these rolls the air from the interstices of the fabric is expelled and the
dye is pressed into and upon the fibres with positive action, insuring a most
thorough and uniform coloring thereto. The excess of the coloring matter or size
is forced backward upon the fabric and waste is thereby prevented. The backward
flow of the excess of dye size adds additional dveing material to that which is
being brought upward by the textile material in passing through the dye vat,
and ensures an ample supply of the coloring and stiffening material to the fabric
at all times for the proper treatment by the pressure rolls. It will further be
observed that the spreading devices k, k, impart to a greater or less extent a
tension upon the fabric so that the same is kept in a taut condition in passing
through the rolls and dye bath.
After passing over the first set of rolls H, H, the fabric passes under a second
guide roller M held in a position below the surface of the size by the pawl and
ratchet devices heretofore referred to. The fabric then passes upward and over
the second set of pressure rolls H, H, and as the speed of the two sets of rolls H, II,,
is equal, no additional tension device is required to act upon the fabric between
these pressure rolls.
The rolls H, H, are driven by gearing P, from the power shaft P, which has
the desired speed of rotation imparted to it by an adjustable pulley Q or any
equivalent device. It is important in an organized apparatus such as here shown
in Fig. 1, to have the dyeing machine adjustable as to its speed, so as to enable
it to be run in exact commensurate speed with that of the drying cylinders
so as not to put excessive and injurious tension upon, the fabric or cause any
slinnage thereof over the surface of the drying cylinders.
By supporting the guide rollers M on the rock shafts and the inverted
U-shaped arms they may be withdrawn entirely clear of the dye size, and there-

page_text: fore the fabric may be moved from the vat whenever desired; and furthermore
I am enabled to apply a new web to the machine in a speedy and satisfactory
manner and without the necessity of inserting the hands into the dyeing size.
An adjustable support, therefore, is desirable, and while I prefer the construction
thereof shown, it may be modified so long as it accomplishes the same general
method of operation. The various other constructions of the dyeing machine C
may be likewise modified or varied with regard to other details without departing
from the essential features or spirit of the invention, hence I do not limit myself
to the identical construction shown.
The process may be carried on with the size either hot or cold.
I shall now particularly describe the special dyeing size employed by me in
carrying out my invention.
To about 100 parts by weight of water. which may be in the cold condition, I
mix approximately 10 parts of starch and 1% parts of caustic soda. The starch
and caustic soda are separately mixed with different portions of the water and the
two solutions are then mixed. This produces a whitish paste similar in appear-
ance to ordinary starch paste. On prolonged boiling this soda starch paste becomes
a clear brown but very stiff. tenacious and ropey. If the ordinary boiling action
be continued, to convert this stiff paste into a smooth syrupy starch soap, it is
liable to become burned. and this is almost sure to result even with the most careful
stirring. I, therefore, boil the mixture in a closed vessel under pressure by the
employment of live steam passing through a coil immersed in the liquid or in a
closed vessel jacketed with live steam. In this manner the starch mixture is
readily converted into a clear brown viscous syrun which retains its consistency,
and in this condition it is most excellently adapted as the basis for imparting the
body to the ink or dve. This manner of preparing the thickening or body material
is new and most important.
While the direct dyes may be used with this starch syrup they are not "fast,"
and hence I prefer to use the basic dyes. While in ordinary use these basic dves
require a tannin and antimony or iron mordant. when used in my process, with
the employment of my specially prepared starch syrup, they can be fixed in varn
or cloth without tannin, since the basic dyes would be precipitated by the soda
in the starch syrup or by the lime in the water used. To the syrup so prepared
I also add a aquantity of acetic acid, the quantity being varied to suit the dve
desired. The free acetic acid becomes evaporated in the drving process to which
the varn or cloth is subjected after being dyed and leaves the basic dyes fixed and
reasonably fast in and upon the fibres of the cloth. However, as some of the basic
dves are precipitated in varying proportions by a number of salts, some of which
precipitates are soluble in clear water. as for example those from the use of
Other precipitates from these
common salt, they are of no use in this process.
basic dyes are soluble in sulphuric or hydrochloric acid. but as these acids are
dangerous to use, are liable to render the goods tender, and are difficult to
evaporate, these substances are not suitable. However, if we employ acetate of
iron, acetate of lime or calcium chloride, these can be used with a number of the
basic dves and their precipitates will be soluble in an excess of acetic acid. said
excess being evaporated in the process of drying and the precipitate left in
and uron the fibre in a form insoluble in clear water and in soap. Among these
basic dves which can be employed in this manner with satisfactory results are.
naphtindone, methylindone. idoine, bengaline, indol blue, garnet rel, Bismark
brown, chrysoidine. auramine. and emerald green, and these all work well with
this method of making the dye or ink. They can be mixed in any desired
proportions to secure the proper density of color and these various dyes may be
intermixed to give an infinite variety of shades.
As there is a lack of good basic black dve. a very fair substitute for this may
he secured by employing four parts of naphtindone and one part each of Bismark
brown, chrysoidine and emerald green, and the tone of the black size produced
As each finisher would make his
may be changed by varying the proportions.

page_text: dyes or inks to suit the work in hand it is not practicable to set out all the
possible proportions and ingredients which might be used, but a satisfactory sample
may be given as follows:
236
150 parts of starch syrup as prepared above, 50 parts acetic acid, 50 parts calcium
chloride (5% solution), .750 parts naphtindone, .375 parts Bismark brown, .375
parts chrysoidine and .375 parts emerald green.
The calcium chloride may be replaced by the acetate of lime or acetate of iron
as hereinbefore pointed out: It will be observed that in an ink or dye employed in
the manner herein described it is essential that it shall have not only the con-
sistency necessary to be capable of being treated by the rolls in such a manner
as to mechanically force it through the fabric by pressure, but it shall also have
the necessary capacity for imparting the desired stiffness and body to the fabric in
"its finished condition..
The process of coloring fabrics in this manner secures a material saving in the
dye stuff required because the yarn or cloth takes only as much of the ink as
is necessary to impregnate it and there are no half spent liquors to be wasted.
The pressure of the rolls removes all superfluous dve and impresses a more
uniform color than is possible by the ordinary piece dve processes. Furthermore
the continuous and practically single operation of dyeing, drying and calendering
greatly reduces the labor cost of the finished article.
While I employ my improved process more particularly for dyeing the fabric
in the web it is to be understood that, if desired, I may dye yarn in a warp or
skein by suitable modification in the handling thereof.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is:-
1. The apparatus for coloring textile fabric with a viscous dyeing size, sub-
stantially as herein described and as shown in the accompanying drawings.
2. An adjustable guide roller for guiding the material through the dyeing
size, when combined with the pressure rollers for subjecting the material impreg-
nated with the dyeing size to heavy pressure.
3. The devices substantially as herein described for adjusting the guide roller
or rollers with reference to the dye vat and pressure rollers.
4. The process of coloring textile fabric by treating it to a bath of viscous
dyeing size and subjecting it to pressure, substantially as herein before set forth.
5. The viscous or starchy compound for coloring textile materials substantially
as herein before described.
Dated this 7th day of February 1899.
JOHN WILLIAM FRIES.
Haseltine, Lake & Co.,
45, Southampton, Buildings, London, W.C.,
Agents for the Applicant.