Improvements in the Manufacture of Hat Leathers, and in Apparatus used in such Manufacture.
Year: 1890

page_text: Date of Application, 18th Aug.; 1890-Accepted, 27th Sept., 1890
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Hat Leathers, and in Apparatus
used in such Manufacture.
I FRANCIS CREE Senior of 51 Edna Street Hyde in the County of Chester,
Machinist, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement :-
The objects of this invention are to dispense with the use of springs reeds, or
covered cords, which are usually stitched to the edge of the hat leather for the purpose
of giving a finish to the same, and to obtain the same or similar results without the use
of such springs reeds or covered cords.
The nature of my invention and the manner in which it is to be performed or carried
into practical effect will be readily understood on reference to the annexed sheet of
drawings and the following explanation thereof.
For the purposes of my invention I use a soft braided cord or round braid without
core or covering and I stitch this onto the leather near to one edge thereof as illustrated
by Fig. 1 on the drawing. a being part of the hat leather and the soft cord or
round braid. I attach the cord or braid by plain stitching in an ordinary sewing
machine with either a chain stitch or a lock stitch arrangement, keeping the tension
slack for the purposes hereinafter mentioned.
The cord or braid may be laid on or guided in front of the needle by making the
presser foot with a guiding hole and a longitudinal groove leading towards the needle,
or the same may be effected by means of any known and suitable form of cord or
braid guide so that the needle passes through the centre of the cord or braid and
stitches it to the leather a short distance from one edge thereof as described.
The edge of the leather is then passed through a pair of rollers. The lower roller
is kept constantly supplied by any suitable known means with a solution of shellac or
other suitable adhesive substance. And as the edge of the leather passes between these
rollers the latter lay on a line of the shellac or other substance. The leather is then
passed through the apparatus shown in sectional front elevation at Fig. 2 and side
sectional elevation at Fig. 3 which has the effect of turning the stitched cord or braid
over the edge of the leather and giving the latter a permanent bend outwards and the
lac becoming cooled at the same time holds the cord or braid in its place and makes
the outward "set" of the edge permanent.
This apparatus consists of a frame c carrying a pair of drawing rollers d, d* the
lower one of which is driven and drives the upper one by means of the spur wheels.
The upper one dx is pressed down by a spring f when in use, and can be raised up
when required by means of a lever g.
In connection with these rollers d dx is a stationary plough the underneath side
of which is provided with a projecting edge so curved or inclined that as the edge of
the leather (prepared as above stated) passes beneath it, it draws the braid or cord over
or nearly over the edge of the same, distending the stitches.
The plough his caused to press downwards upon the leather by being fixed to one
end of a lever i at the other end of which is a hook attached to a spring k.
Figs. 4, 5 and 6, are detached views of these parts drawn to a larger scale.
Fig. 6 being an underneath plan.
The projecting edge diminishes in depth at the same time that it approaches the
edge so that near to this odoo the cord and the leather mass honorth the plain or

page_text: flat part where the edge of the leather is held firmly whilst the rollers d d drag it
forwards thereby giving a permanent bend or outward "set" to the edge of the
leather. (See Fig. 7.)
The plough presses the leather down upon a heated plate p which softens lac or
cement and causes the cord or braid to retain its position when forced outwards and
pressed down by the plough.
If preferred the lac may be applied. before the braid or cord is sewn onto the
leather.
25
I am aware that it has formerly been proposed to use shellac or other suitable cement
and heat in giving a permanent bend or outward " set to bat leathers.. I therefore
make no claim for such invention.
Having now particularly described and ascertained' the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is
First. Stitching upon a bat leather a soft cord or braid near to the edge with a
loose tension, and then drawing the said cord or braid over or nearly over the edge in
combination with the application of shellac or other suitable cement which will cause
the cord or braid to adhere to the leather and keep its position and at the same time
give a permanent bend or outward "set" to the edge of the leather, substantially as
herein before described.
Secondly. I claim the construction of the plough and its adjuncts for the purpose of
forcing the stitched cord or braid over the edge of the leather, and bending or setting
over, the edge of the leather at the same time, all substantially as hereinbefore
described and illustrated by the drawings annexed.
Thirdly. A bat leather with a soft cord or braid plainly stitched on near to the
edge with a loose tension and then bent over or nearly over the edge in combination
with an edging of shellac or other suitable cement applied to the edge of the leather
substantially as and for the purposes hereinhefore set forth.
Dated this 16th day of August 1890.
GEO. DAVIES & SON,
4, St. Ann's Square, Manchester, Agents for the Applicant.