Improvements in Pile Fabrics and in their Manufacture.
Year: 1898

page_text: Date of Application, 8th Mar., 1898
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Pile Fabrics and in their Manufacture.
We, JOSÉ REIXACH, a Managing Director of Lister & Co., Limited, of Manning-
ham Mills, Bradford, in the County of York, and HERBERT SCOTT, of the same
address, Manufacturers Assistant, do hereby declare the nature of this invention
to be as follows:-
By our invention we manufacture a reversible figured pile fabric with pile on
both sides.
Plain reversible plush with pile on both sides has been made before in a
wire loom one piece at a time.
The pile threads half at a time are led under a wire at the back and over a wire
on the face. The pile loops around the face wires are subsequently cut and the
wires on the back are withdrawn half the pile being drawn through to the back
in doing so.
The reversible figured pile fabrics might be woven in wire looms of this class
but the object of our invention is more especially to produce on a double plush
loom two plain or figured pile fabrics woven face to face with pile on the back
as well as on the face of each without its being necessary to use a creel but with
the pile threads wrapped on beams and delivered to the piece by a pile motion
in the usual manner the pile on the back being obtained by tying the pile over
additional or floating picks of weft which are not enclosed by the ground warps
and are withdrawn after the pieces are cut asunder.
In this way picks of weft take the place of wires. Similarly in a wire loom the
reversible figured cloth could be woven without a creel and picks of weft might
take the place of the back wires.
In the double plush loom we may employ two shuttles which are shot simul-
taneously one into each piece or a single shuttle shot first into the top and then
into the bottom piece.
We obtain a figured cloth with a figured pile on the back as well as on the face
by employing two threads of pile of different colours or different fibres in each
dent or split.
Wherever it is desired to bring say the light colour to the back of
the top cloth, the threads of the light colour are selected by a Jacquard machine
of the usual type and are passed round the back of an extra or floating pick of
weft, afterwards to be withdrawn, which is thrown on the back of the top piece,
then round one or more ordinary ground picks then again round an extra or
floating pick thrown on the back, they are then crossed over and tied in round
the ordinary ground pick or picks of weft of the bottom piece, the pile threads of
the dark colour being at the same time tied in round the ordinary
ground pick or picks of weft of the top piece and then crossed over
and passed round the back of an extra or floating pick afterwards to be withdrawn
which is thrown on the back of the bottom piece then round one or more ground
picks, then again round the back of an extra pick thrown on the back.
It will be seen that on withdrawing the extra or floating picks of weft after the
pieces have been cut asunder in the usual manner the light threads are brought
through the ground of the cloth and make pile on the back of the top piece, the

page_text: dark threads making pile on the face of this cloth in the ordinary way; the dark
threads are drawn through the ground and make pile on the back of the bottom
cloth the light threads making pile on the face in the ordinary way. When it is
desired to make the figure by changing the colours the dark threads are tied over
the extra or floating picks of the top piece and the light round the extra picks
of the bottom piece exactly the reverse of the foregoing.
Diagram views of figured reversible plushes woven in the above way are shewn
by diagrams A B and C.
Diagram A (Sheet 1) shews a double pile fabric before the pile is cut asunder.
Diagrams AA3 shew respectively the top and bottom pieces after the pile has
been cut and the picks a withdrawn.
BBB and CCC are similar diagrams of other examples.
In a modification we obtain a broché figured pile fabric on the face of which
the figure or design is shewn by pile and the ground by plain ground without
pile, and on the back the figure or design is shown by plain ground without pile
and the ground by pile, or vice versa, (see Diagram D); when making pile on the
back of the top piece plain ground is made on the face, and pile is made on the
face and plain ground on the back of the bottom piece the method of weaving
is as follows. We employ two pile threads of the same or of different colours or
fibres and pass them first both round the back of an extra or floating pick of weft,
afterwards to be withdrawn, thrown on the back of the top piece, the 1st pile
thread is then crossed over and tied round one or more ordinary ground picks of
weft in the bottom. piece while the second pile thread is tied round one or more
ordinary ground picks in the top piece both piles are then again passed round an
extra pick thrown on the back of the top piece and so on; when it is desired to
form the design by reversing and making plain ground on the back and
pile on the face of the top piece, and plain ground on the face and pile on the
back of bottom piece we pass both pile threads round an extra pick of weft thrown
on the back of the bottom piece the second thread is then crossed over and tied
round one or more ordinary ground picks of weft in the top piece, while the 1st
thread is tied round one or more ordinary ground picks in the bottom piece-both
threads are then passed round another extra pick thrown on the back of the bottom
piece, and so on.
Diagrams DD1 D2 are diagrams similar to A A¹A² of a broché figured pile
fabric woven in the above way.
or
To obtain a plain fabric with pile on the back as well as on the face we dispense
with the Jacquard and lift the pile threads by healds worked in a well known
manner the method of weaving is similar to the foregoing only that the tying
in is not reversed to make a figure. We may use two colours or fibres in each
dent or split and cause one say the light colour always to pass round the extra
or floating picks of weft thrown on the back of the top piece and then cross over
and pass round the ordinary ground pick or picks of weft of the bottom piece while
the other or dark colour passes round the extra picks thrown
on the
back of the bottom piece and then cross over and pass round the
ordinary ground pick or picks of the top piece; when the extra
floating picks are withdrawn the light colour will form the pile on the back
and the dark colour the pile on the face of the top piece, and the dark colour will
form the pile on the back and the light colour the pile on the face of the bottom
piece. By this means we obtain a reversible pile fabric with a pile of one colour
on the back and a pile of another colour on the face. To obtain
a plain pile fabric with the same coloured pile on the back and face
we may use the same weave as above described with pile threads all of
one colour or we may use half the number of pile threads i.c. one in each dent
or split and pass all the pile threads together first round the back of an extra pick
of weft, afterwards to be withdrawn, thrown on the back of the top piece, then
round the face of one or more ordinary ground picks enclosed within the ground
warps or thrown on the face of the cloth, then round the back of one or more
ordinary ground picks enclosed within the ground warps or thrown on the back of

page_text: the cloth but not afterwards withdrawn. We then cross all the pile threads over to
the other piece, and tie in, in the same way first round the extra pick thrown on
the back then round the ground picks.
Diagrams E E E, F F F and G G1 G2 shew three examples of plain reversible
plush woven in the above way.
Any number of ground warps may be used and they may be woven in any
suitable way and the method of tying in the pile warps may be varied according as
it is desired to tie it in to the grounds by one or more picks of weft or by what
is known as a
or a "fast" pile.
"loose "
More than two colours or fibres may be employed and the extra colours or fibres
may be wound on bobbins and carried by a supplementary creel and they may be
introduced in any parts of the design as desired.
improvements in File Fabrics and in their Manufacture.
We, JOSÉ REIXACH, a Managing Director of Lister & Co. Limited, of Manning-
ham Mills, Bradford, in the County of York, and HERBERT SCOTT, of the same
address, Manufacturers Assistant, do hereby declare the nature of this invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement:-
By our invention we manufacture à reversible figured pile fabric with pile on
both sides.
Plain reversible plush with pile on both sides has been made before in a
wire loom one piece at a time.
The pile threads half at a time are led under a wire at the back and over a wire
on the face. The pile loops around the face wires are subsequently cut and the
wires on the back are withdrawn half the pile being drawn through to the back
in doing so.
The reversible figured pile fabrics might be woven in wire looms of this class
but the object of our invention is more especially to produce on a double plush
loom two plain or figured pile fabrics woven face to face with pile on the back
as well as on the face of each without its being necessary to use a creel but with
the pile threads wrapped on beams and delivered to the piece by a pile motion
in the usual manner the pile on the back being obtained by tying the pile over
additional or floating picks of weft which are not enclosed by the ground warps
and are withdrawn after the pieces are cut asunder.
In this way picks of weft take the place of wires. Similarly in a wire loom the
reversible figured cloth could be woven without a creel and picks of weft might
take the place of the back wires.
-
In the double plush loom we may employ two shuttles which are shot simul-
taneously one into each piece or a single shuttle shot first into the top and then
into the bottom piece.
We obtain a figured cloth with a figured pile on the back as well as on the face
by employing two threads of pile of different colours or different fibres in each
dent or split. Wherever it is desired to bring say the light colour to the back of
the top cloth, the threads of the light colour are selected by a Jacquard machine
of the usual type and are passed round the back of an extra or floating pick of
weft, afterwards to be withdrawn, which is thrown on the back of the top piece,
then round one or more ordinary ground picks, then again round an extra or

page_text: floating pick thrown on the back, they are then crossed over and tied in round
the ordinary ground pick or picks of weft of the bottom piece, the pile threads of
the dark colour being at the same time tied in round the ordinary
ground pick or picks of weft of the top piece and then crossed
and passed round the back of an extra or floating pick afterwards to be withdrawn
which is thrown on the back of the bottom piece then round one or more ground
picks, then again round the back of an extra pick thrown on the back.
over
It will be seen that on withdrawing the extra or floating picks of weft after the
pieces have been cut asunder in the usual manner the light threads are brought
through the ground of the cloth and make pile on the back of the top piece, the
dark threads making pile on the face of this cloth in the ordinary way; the dark
threads are drawn through the ground and make pile on the back of the bottom
cloth the light threads making pile on the face in the ordinary way. When it is
desired to make the figure by changing the colours the dark threads are tied over
the extra or floating picks of the top piece and the light round the extra picks
of the bottom piece-exactly the reverse of the foregoing.
Diagram views of figured reversible plushes woven in the above way are shewn
by diagrams A. B and C lodged with our Provisional Specification.
Diagram A (Sheet 1) shews a double pile fabric before the pile is cut asunder.
Diagrams A1 A2 shew respectively the top and bottom pieces after the pile has
been cut and the picks a withdrawn.
BBB and CCC are similar diagrams of other examples.
In a modification we obtain a broché figured pile fabric on the face of which
the figure or design is shewn by pile and the ground by plain ground without
pile, and on the back the figure or design is shown by plain ground without pile
and the ground by pile, or vice versa, (see Diagram D): when making pile on the
back of the top piece plain ground is made on the face, and pile is made on the
face and plain ground on the back of the bottom piece--the method of weaving
is as follows. We employ two pile threads of the same or of different colours or
fibres and pass them first both round the back of an extra or floating pick of weft,
afterwards to be withdrawn, thrown on the back of the top piece, the 1st pile
thread is then crossed over and tied round one or more ordinary ground picks of
weft in the bottom piece while the second pile thread is tied round one or more
ordinary ground picks in the top piece both piles are then again passed round an
extra pick thrown on the back of the top piece and so on: when it is desired to
form the design by reversing and making plain ground on the back and
pile on the face of the top piece, and plain ground on the face and pile on the
back of bottom piece we pass both pile threads round an extra pick of weft thrown
on the back of the bottom piece the second thread is then crossed over and tied
round one or more ordinary ground picks of weft in the top piece, while the 1st
thread is tied round one or more ordinary ground picks in the bottom piece both
threads are then passed round another extra pick thrown on the back of the bottom
piece and so on.
Diagrams DD1 D2 ledged with our Provisional Specification are diagrams similar
to A A¹ A² of a broché figured pile fabric woven in the above way.
To obtain a plain fabric with pile on the back as well as on the face we dispense
with the Jacquard and lift the pile threads by healds worked in a well known
manner the method of weaving is similar to the foregoing only that the tying
in is not reversed to make a figure. We may use two colours or fibres in each
dent or split and cause one say the light colour always to pass round the extra
or floating picks of weft thrown on the back of the top piece and then cross over
and pass round the ordinary ground pick or picks of weft of the bottom piece while
the other or dark colour passes round the extra picks thrown
on the
back of the bottom piece and then cross over and pass round the
ordinary ground pick or picks of the top piece; when the extra
floating picks are withdrawn the light colour will form the pile on the back
and the dark colour the pile on the face of the top piece, and the dark colour will
or

page_text: form the pile on the back and the light colour the pile on the face of the bottom
piece. By this means we obtain a reversible pile fabric with a pile of one colour
on the back and a pile of another colour on the face as say in the right hand half
of diagrams A, B or C, or as a modification of diagram C the light colour may if
desired be passed only round the extra picks thrown on the back both of the top
and bottom pieces, the dark colour passing only round the ordinary ground picks
of both pieces, or vice versa.
Diagrams HHH³ annexed show as an example a modification of diagram C for
weaving a reversible plush in this way. In this diagram the piles 51, 51ª may be
of one colour or material and the pile 52 of another colour or material. H¹ shows the
top piece after the picks 53 have been withdrawn, from which it will be seen that the
pile 52 is always on one side of the fabric and the piles 51, 51 are always on the
other, similarly H2 shews the bottom piece after the picks 54 have been withdrawn ;
previous to the withdrawal of the picks 53 and 54 the pieces are cut asunder in any
well known manner.
Either the face pile or the back pile may consist of two or more colours and in
this way a figure may be formed on either or both sides of each piece those threads
which at any part of the design are not required to make pile being floated on
the back of either piece till they are again required.
To obtain a plain pile fabric with the same coloured pile on the back and face
we may use the same weaves as previously described with pile threads all of one
colour or we may use half the number of pile threads i.e. one in each dent or split
and pass all the pile threads together first round the back of an extra pick of
weft, afterwards to be withdrawn, thrown on the back of the top piece, then round
the face of one or more ordinary ground picks enclosed within the ground warps or
thrown on the face of the cloth, then' round the back of one or more
ordinary ground picks enclosed within the ground warps or thrown on the back of
the cloth but not afterwards withdrawn. We then cross all the pile threads over to
the other piece, and tie in, in the same way first round the extra pick thrown on
the back then round the ground picks.
Diagrams E E E2, F F F and G G1 G2 lodged with our Provisional Specification
shew three examples of plain reversible plush woven in the above way.
Any number of ground warps may be used and they may be woven in any
suitable way and the method of tying in the pile warps may be varied according as
it is desired to tie it in to the grounds by one or more picks of weft or by what
is known as a "loose" or a fast" pile.
<
More than two colours or fibres may be employed and the extra colours or fibres
may be wound on bobbins and carried by a supplementary creel and they may be
introduced in any parts of the design as desired.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what
we claim is: -
1. The manufacture of reversible figured pile fabrics with pile on both sides
substantially as hereinbefore described.
2. The manufacture of reversible plain and figured pile fabrics as double
fabrics in a double plush loom substantially as herein before described and illus-
trated in the diagrams annexed.
3. The manufacture of plain and figured reversible pile fabrics with pile on
both sides the pile on the back being obtained by passing the pile pile warps over
picks of weft thrown on the back of the fabrics and which are not enclosed by the
ground warps but are withdrawn after the pile on the face has been cut-half or
some of the pile being drawn through to the back in doing so substantially as
described.
4. The manufacture of plain and figured reversible pile fabrics with pile on
both sides as double fabrics in a double plush loom the pile on the back of each
piece being obtained by passing the pile warps over picks of weft on the back of

page_text: the pieces and not enclosed by the ground warps but withdrawn after the pieces
are cut asunder half or some of the pile being drawn to the back of the pieces in
doing so substantially as described.
5. The manufacture on a double plush loom of two plain or figured pile fabrics
woven face to face with pile on the face as well as pile to be drawn to the back
of each piece and with the pile warps delivered from beams by a pile motion sub-
stantially as described.
.
1000