Improvements in or relating to Coats and like Sleeved Garments.
Year: 1898

page_text: PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in or relating to Coats and like Sleeved Garments.
I, ARTHUR MICHAEL BURBERRY, of 30, Haymarket, in the County of London,
Sportsman's Outfitter, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as
follows:-
This invention has for object, two improvements to he used separately in
different garments of the same kind, or combined in the same garment, such
as a coat with sleeves, and particularly those used by sportsmen, by drivers, or
by men having laborious outdoor work, such as masons, paviors, and others by
whom much stooping or expansion of the back of the garment is occasioned, and
which by the present system of cutting and making up is very detrimental to the
garment besides restricting the movements of the wearer's arms.
For the purpose of my invention which, as before mentioned, has two features
of novelty consists: First: in making an open back pleat with seam at or
near each edge, and from opposite sides of said pleat, I by threads, cords, or
tapes, clastic or other, connect them to the shoulder seams and the under arm
side seams and to the front side seams, the tapes or cords running diagonally, so
that as the back is dragged, such as by stooping or of throwing the arms to the
front as in shooting, the back pleat opens to the strain of the tapes and prevents
the coat back seams ripping, or of the fabric being torn, or in any way inter-
fering with the movements of the arms or back of the wearer, the original
formation of the back pleat of the coat recovering itself on the strain being
removed.
The threads, cords, or tapes may and do preferably run from the waist seam
to opposite sides of the pleat-seam and from thence to the shoulder seams, the
threads being also rove through an cyclet to allow of unequal strain if such be
put upon it.
The next improvement relates to the cuff of the sleeve, this being provided
with a draw-in tape or cord in the lining portion only, one end of such
tape passing through a slit in the outer sleeve portion for ready attachment by
spring or other fastener to a socket or other means of fastening, such as by
hook and eye if desired, but preferably by the well known spring glove fastener.
By this, the lining only is drawn around the wrist without puckering or other-
wise making the cuff portion of the sleeve unsightly.
Dated this 24th day of Navambor 1808
H. GARDNER,
Patent Agent, 166, Fleet Street, London,
Agent for the said Arthur Michael Burberry.

page_text: Improvements in or relating to Coats and like Sleeved Garments.
I, ARTHUR MICHAEL BURBERRY, of 30, Haymarket, in the County of London,
Sportsman's Outfitter, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement:—
This invention has for object, two improvements to be used separately in
different garments of the same kind, or combined in the same garment, such
as a coat with sleeves, and particularly those used by sportsmen, by drivers, or
by men having laborious outdoor work, such as masons, paviors, and others by
whom much stooping or expansion of the back of the garment is occasioned, and
which by the present system of cutting and making up is very detrimental to the
garment besides restricting the movements of the wearer's arms.
For the purpose of my invention which, as before mentioned, has two features
of novelty consists: First: in making an open back pleat with seam at or
near each edge, and from opposite sides of said pleat, I by threads, cords, or
tapes, elastic or other, connect them to the shoulder scams and the under arm
side seams, the tapes or
cords running diagonally, SO that as the
back is dragged such as by stooping or of throwing the arms to the
front as in shooting, the back pleat opens to the strain of the tapes and prevents
the coat back seams ripping, or of the fabric being torn, or in any way inter-
fering with the movements of the arms or back of the wearer, the original
formation of the back pleat of the coat recovering itself on the strain being
removed.
The threads, cords, or tapes may and do preferably run from the body side
seam to opposite sides of the pleat seam and from thence to the shoulder seams,
the threads being rove through an eyelet or hole to allow of unequal strain if
such be put upon it.
The next improvement relates to the cuff of the sleeve, this being provided
with a draw-in strip, tape, or cord in the lining portion only, one end of such
tape passing through a slit in the outer sleeve portion for ready attachment by
spring or other fastener to a socket button, or other means of fastening, such as by
hook and eye if desired, but preferably by the well known spring glove fastener.
By this, the lining only is drawn around the wrist without puckering or other-
wise making the cuff portion of the sleeve unsightly.
Both features of my invention are clearly shown in the- annexed drawings in
which Figure represents a shooting jacket, the lines of the cords or tapes being
shown by dotted lines as if between the outer fabric and the lining. Figure 2
diagram of open pleat and cord lacing.
Figure detached portion of the jacket back with the lining removed and
indicating the expanded form of the middle- back pleat due to the strain on
the cords.
Figure 4 similar view with the cords in their normal condition and the back
pleat closed in.
Figures 5 and 6 detached view of a coat cuff with the lining in the ordinary
condition and fulled or gathered in by the drag of the cuff strip as hereafter
explained.
A, open back pleat produced by lapping the fabric over upon itself from both
sides towards the centre, as by the view Figure 2. B, B, cords or tapes secured
to the body side seams at C, C, C, and at shoulder seams at D, D, D, of the

page_text: same, the cords being crossed near the centre of the back and rove through holes
or eyelets E, E, E, of the opposite inner folds of the back pleat A.
A person in the act of shooting throws his arm forward from the shoulder,
and in doing so, drags upon the back of the jacket, lifting it to a degree from the
waist which allows the side attachments with the cords to rise proportionately up
under the arms due to the strain put upon them from the shoulders at 1) and
the forward thrust of the arms and permits the back overlap to open out and
the back, particularly between the shoulders, to widen itself, the cords by being
rove through the holes or eyelets permitting this to be done without fear of
straining or splitting the jacket.
The act of lowering the arms after firing allows the body of the jacket to drop
and the back to resume its normal condition by the reverse strain on the cords
from the side attachments at C, the overlap A recovering itself by closing in.
This drop of the jacket is much enhanced from the weight of cartridges or of
game carried in the pockets of the garment, but my loose or open mid-back
overlap obviates the drag upon the arms usually put upon them by tight backed
seams of such garments where the weight is in the pockets.
The second part of the invention is represented at Figures 1, 5, and 6 where a
is a runner strip secured at one end to the inside of the cuff lining and
enclosed between the lining of the cuff and of the outer fabric, it passes through
a slit at of the outer fabric to be drawn outwardly and round the outside of the
cuff c to pucker the lining of the cuff only and thereby reduce it and cause it to
fit close to the wrist of the wearer, the end d of the strip being provided with a
spring glove button at e to catch into or over one or the other of the shanks, as
at f.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is:
1. The fixture and employment of cords, tapes, or the like to the side seams
and shoulder seams of a jacket like garment with the crossing and loose rovings
of same through portions of an open or loose pleat at the centre of the back of
said garment, in the manner represented and for the purposes set forth.
2. The means described by which the cuff lining of the garment sleeve can
be drawn in without causing a pucker of the outside fabric, as and for the
purposes explained and substantially as indicated.
7637
1011
.
T
1900
H. GARDNER,
Patent Agent, 166, Fleet Street, London,
Agent for the said Arthur Michael Burberry.
H. GARDNER,
Patent Agent, 166, Fleet Street, London,
Agent for the said Arthur Michael Burberry.