IM- PROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF CERTAIN ARTICLES OF DRESS OR WEARING APPAREL, SUCH AS COATS, TROUSERS, VESTS, JACKETS, MANTLES, SHIRTS, DRAWERS, AND SIMILAR ARTICLES, AND IN APPARATUS EMPLOYED THEREIN, WHICH APPARATUS IS ALSO APPLICABLE IN FIGURE WEAVING
Year: 1867

page_text: PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by Samuel Leather at the Office of
the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 5th April
1867.
I, SAMUEL LEATHER, of Dalton, near Huddersfield, in the County of York,
Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IM-
PROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF CERTAIN ARTICLES OF DRESS OR WEARING
APPAREL, SUCH AS COATS, TROUSERS, VESTS, JACKETS, MANTLES, SHIRTS, DRAWERS,
AND SIMILAR ARTICLES, AND IN APPARATUS EMPLOYED THEREIN, WHICH APPARATUS IS
ALSO APPLICABLE IN FIGURE WEAVING," to be as follows:-
The object of this Invention is to dispense with a great part of the cutting
out and sewing or stitching of the parts together, heretofore required in the
manufacture or making of such articles, and instead of which I manufacture
or produce these articles to a considerable extent during the process of weaving
the fabric or cloth of which they are made; for this purpose I employ either
ordinary jacquard apparatus to work the harness for forming the shed or sheds,
the cards of which I so arrange as to operate on the warp to weave "double
cloth," or two fabrics one over the other at the same time (which is not new)
and I also arrange the cards so that certain parts of the warps or threads
thereof are operated to produce single cloth only, whilst the other parts are
double cloth, thus the two fabrics are joined together at certain intervals in
the process of weaving instead of sewing them together. I therefore arrange

page_text: the cards of the jacquard apparatus to operate the threads of the warp
according to the pattern or shape of the article to be manufactured in a similar
manner to ordinary pattern weaving so as to fasten the two fabrics together by
weaving at the precise places where the seam would be in the article when
produced by the ordinary mode of sewing or stitching them together; by this
means I can also weave the linings in or along with the outside of the
garment. Or instead of the ordinary jacquard apparatus I employ one or
more lifting bars extending across the looms, to which motion up and down is
communicated from the crank shaft, also a series of the ordinary jacquard
books or hooked wires corresponding with the number of ends or threads to
be used in the warp, which hooked wires are attached respectively to the
harness and capable of booking on the bars when placed in position, and of
being lifted thereby to open the shed; these hooked wires pass through eyes
of needles in the usual manner, which are operated as follows:-A grating of
similar pitch to the distance apart of the needles is placed opposite their ends
extending across the loom, and a flatted wire placed betwixt each space, one
end being attached to the frame of the grating and the other to a needle. A
shaft extending across the loom is placed neer to and parallel with the
grating, to which rotary motion is given by change gearing from any con-
venient shaft of the loom. One or more Archemedean screws or worms of
one or more threads of similar pitch to the gratings are placed on this shaft,
and capable of sliding thereon, but driven thereby. The threads take into
the gratings in succession as the shaft rotates, and the said screws or worms
are thereby carried across the loom operating upon the wires and needles to
place the hooks in position to take on or be caught by the lifting bar or bars
consecutively. Some of these screws or worms are right handed and some
left handed, and I place and arrange them to move in the direction and to
operate in the manner or upon those wires or hooks according to the pattern
or form or figure required in the weaving.