Improvements in Imparting to Fabrics, Threads, and other Articles a Silk-like Lustre.
Year: 1889

page_text: Date of Application. 15th June, 1889
Complete Specification Left, 15th Mar., 1890-Accepted, 24th May, 1890
Improvements in Imparting to Fabrics, Threads, and other Articles
a Silk-like Lustre.
I, WILLIAM GREEN, of Ramsgate, Alderman, do hereby declare the nature of this
invention to be as follows:-
It has been discovered that cellulose when suitably treated forms a good substi-
tute for silk. The best cellulose for this purpose is that obtained from certain
parts of young wood prepared in a state of great purity in order to avoid any
complicating sub-reactions with the chemicals employed. With this material a
pure octo nitro-cellulose is made by treatment with nitric acid (HNO,) and then
dissolved in a mixture of 38 parts of ether (C. H₁00) and 42 parts of alcohol
(C, H, O) in a proportion of 6.5 per cent. The cellulose thus treated is put in a
tinned copper vessel in which an air-pump keeps up a pressure of several atmos-
pheres. In forming threads a delivery tube is connected with the copper vessel
iving on an inclined plane on which are fixed glass tubes each drawn out into a
capillary part. A second tube surrounds each capillary tube and kept supplied
with water. The material forced out from the capillary aperture is solidified at
the surface on contact with the water and flows therewith as a thin thread or
filament which is wound on to a bobbin. The nitric acid is then disengaged.
Substitution products consisting of starch or cellulose in which hydrogen is more
or less replaced by nitryl (NO2) are termed pyroxylins. The thread produced as
above described is a pyroxylin. Some pyroxylins lose their nitric acid in pure
water but more completely in dilute nitric acid of not greater density than 1.32
and the temperature of which should be caused to decrease slowly from 35°
to 25° C. The cellulose thus treated becomes gelatinous and capable of absorb-
ing by endosmosis various substances particularly colouring matters and salts.
It will then part with no more than 100 c.c. to 110 c.c. of NO, per gramme and
has lost those explosive properties which before denitration it possessed so that it
is in a suitable state to be used in the manufacture of fabrics and for other threads.
The object of the present Invention is to extend the use of this article and to
apply it beneficially and in novel and useful ways to a great variety and number
of other purposes.
In carrying out this Invention I coat and treat other threads filaments, fabrics,
paper, papier-mache, lace, fringe, trimmings, ribbons, perforated and embossed
fabrics and paper, advertising and other cards, buttons, flowers real or artificial,
dress and other ornaments, fictile and other articles or vessels, as vases, scent
and other bottles, jewelry and other articles, materials or matters with octo-nitro
cellulose as above described. In coating threads I cause them to pass through
the octo-nitro cellulose and then through an aperture by which all superfluous
liquid is removed then through water and on to bobbins. Any number of threads
may be caused to pass through the vessel and be thus coated and treated. Or
instead of passing the threads through the octo-nitro cellulose they may be
brought into contact therewith as it is forced from a capillary tube and by giving
a twist to such thread or otherwise be caused to adhere thereto. In either caso
they are afterwards to be treated in a similar manner to threads or filaments
made from the pure cellulose as hereinbefore described. Or the completed octo-
nitro cellulose thread or filament may be spun braided or otherwise attached
around another thread so that the latter shall form a core to the finished thread.
In treating fabrics or other articles in the piece or continuous lengths on which

page_text: it is desired to produce a silk like surface the tubes through which the cellulose
is forced either as threads or ribbons are so arranged that the fabric or other
article will pass under or over them and receive the cellulose on their surface
wholly or in part. A tremulous or zigzag motion may be given to the tubes or
to the article being coated. In some cases more than one set of tubes may be
employed and be so arranged that the cellulose filaments or ribbons as they are
forced out may cross each other and so form checks or other patterns. The
separate layers may be applied at one operation if so desired or one layer may be
first applied and treated as herein before described, and even dyed, then another
and another in like manner. By this process one surface only of the material
will be coated. When it is desired to coat the material on both sides it is caused
to pass between and under accurately fitted rollers into the liquid octo-nitro-
cellulose and out through squeezers or rollers also accurately fitted. It is then
to be treated as herein before described. The material or threads is in some
cases first rendered waterproof by a coating of india rubber or in any desired
manner. When treating moulded, hollow or other irregular shaped articles I
place them on trays in a suitable copper vessel then run therein the liquid
cellulose until the articles are sufficiently immersed after which the superfluous
octo-nitro-cellulose is run off into another vessel and the coated articles removed
and treated as herein before described. Buttons and numerous other articles may
thus have imparted to them a silk-like surface and in order to improve that effect
such articles as also fabrics paper trimmings ribbons and other materials may
be embossed with electro type or other rollers plates moulds or dies either before
or after being coated. In some cases a portion only of the surface is coated with
octo-nitro-cellulose. This may be effected by pressing the fabric against an
engraved roller evolving in the cellulose. The articles to be treated may also if
desired be coated on one side by being brought in contact with plain rollers
revolving in the fluid octo-nitro-cellulose.
Dated this 15th day of June 1889
CARPMAEL & Co.,
Agents.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Imparting to Fabrics, Threads, and other Articles
a Silk-like Lustre.
T, WILLIAM GREEN, of Ramsgate, Alderman, do hereby declare the nature of this
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement:
10
-
It has been discovered that cellulose when suitably treated forms a good subsii-
tute for silk. The best cellulose for this purpose is that obtained from certain
parts of young wood prepared in a state of great purity in order to avoid any
complicated sub-reactions with the chemicals employed. With this material a
pure octo-nitro-cellulose is made by treatment with nitric acid (HNO3) and then
dissolved in a mixture of 38 parts of ether (C, H₁00) and 42 parts of alcohol
(CHO) in a proportion of 6.5 per cent. The cellulose thus treated is put in a
tinned copper vessel in which an air pump keeps up a pressure of several atmo-
spheres. In forming threads a delivery tube is connected with the copper vessel
lying on an inclined plane on which are fixed glass tubes each drawn out into a
capillary part. A second tube surrounds each capillary tube and is kept supplied
with water. The material forced out from the capillary aperture is solidified at
the surface on contact with the water and flows therewith as a thin thread or
filament which is wound on to a bobbin. The nitric acid is then disengaged.
Substitution products consisting of starch or cellulose in which hydrogen is more
or less replaced by nitryl (NO2) are termed pyroxylin. Some pyroxylins lose
their nitric acid in pure water but more completely in dilute nitric acid of not

page_text: greater density than 1.32 and the temperature of which should be caused to
decrease slowly from 35° to 25° C. The cellulose thus treated becomes gelatinous
and capable of absorbing by endosmosis various substances particularly colour-
ing matters and salts. It will then part with no more than 100 c.c. to 110 c.c.
of NO, per gramme and has lost those explosive properties which before dinitra-
tion it possessed so that it is in a suitable state to be used in the manufacture of
fabrics and for other threads.
The object of the present invention is to extend the use of this article and to
employ it beneficially and in novel and useful ways to a great variety and number
of other purposes.
In carrying out this invention I coat and treat other threads, filaments, fabrics,
paper, papier-maché, lace, fringe, trimmings, ribbons, perforated and embossed
fabrics and paper advertising and other cards, buttons, flowers real or artificial,
dress and other ornaments, fictile and other articles or vessels as vases, scent and
other bottles, jewellery and other articles materials or matters with octo-nitro-
cellulose as above described. In coating threads I cause them to pass through
the octo-nitro-cellulose and then through an aperture by which all superfluous
liquid is removed then through water and on to bobbins. Any number of threads
may be caused to pass through the vessel and be thus coated and treated. Care
must be taken to use for this purpose a closed vessel or apparatus which will
prevent as far as possible the evaporation and escape of the ether and alcohol in
the material used. Or instead of passing the threads through the octo-nitro-
cellulose they may be brought into contact therewith as it is forced from a
capillary tube and by giving a twist to such thread or otherwise be caused to
adhere thereto.
There are many well known ways of giving a twist to the thread while being
covered any of which may be employed. After being thus coated the thread is
wound on to a reel. In either case the covered threads are afterwards to be
treated in a similar manner to threads or filaments made from the pure cellulose.
as herein before described. Or the completed octo-nitro-cellulose thread or fila-
ment may be spun, braided or otherwise attached around another thread so that
the latter shall form a core to the finished thread. In some cases two or more
fine threads of any desired material are employed to form the core and the thin
thread or filament of octo-nitro-cellulose after being completed is plaited wound
or otherwise caused to cover such core after which it is ready for use for weaving
or other purposes. Any of the ordinary machinery or apparatus used for covering
threads whether with silk, metal or other material may be employed for this
purpose. When so desired an adhesive flexible matter may be applied to the
core or a thread or filament possessing adhesive properties, as gutta percha for
example, be used in the core after the covering of which it may be subjected
to slight pressure and heat thereby ensuring a more perfect union of the covering
with the core.
In treating filaments as distinct from threads whether of india
rubber, gutta percha, or other matter similar modes are employed to those
hereinbefore described.
In treating fabrics or other articles in the piece or continuous lengths on which
it is desired to produce a silk like surface the tubes through which the cellulose
is forced either as threads or ribbons are so arranged that the fabric or other
article will pass under or over them and receive the cellulose on their surface
wholly or in part. A tremulous or zig-zag motion may be given to the tubes or
to the article being coated. In some cases more than one set of tubes may be
employed and be so arranged that the cellulose filaments or ribbons as they are
forced out may cross each other and so form checks or other patterns. The
separate layers may be applied at one operation if so desired, or one layer may
be first applied and treated as herein before described and even dyed then another
and another in like manner. By this process one surface only of the material will
be coated. The apparatus which I prefer for carrying out this part of my inven-
tion consists of a long drum having a slot along its surface into which the

page_text: selvages of the fabric to be treated are inserted and held by suitable clips or pins.
The drum is then caused to revolve and as it does so a filament or ribbon of octo-
nitro-cellulose is wound thereon. A zig-zag, or to-and-fro, or any other desired
motion is given, if desired, either to the drum or to the tubes, to one of which a
steady onward movement is given for the purpose of ensuring an even coating
of the filaments or ribbon on the fabric. The said filaments or ribbons may be
received direct on to the fabric from the capillary tubes as they are formed or
they may be first wound on to bobbins and treated as hereinbefore described,
then affixed thereto. Different widths and colours of the said octo-nitro-cellulose
filaments or ribbons, may be thus applied either separately or at one operation.
In some cases a thin narrow coating of adhesive matter is applied to the fabric
as it revolves on the drum just in front of the portion on which the filament is
being wound. In some cases too a spiral direction is given to such filament first
from right to left, then from left to right or when so desired in one way only.
Pressure with or without heat is also in some cases applied in order to ensure
the more perfect union of the filament or ribbon to the fabric. In some cases,
especially with narrow goods as ribbons and similar fabrics they are wound.
spirally round the drum and the octo-nitro filament or ribbon then applied
thereto. This will give a diagonal position to the said filaments which may if
desired be reversed thus producing a diamond pattern in one or more colours.
When it is desired to coat the material on both sides it is caused to pass between
and under accurately fitted rollers into the liquid octo-nitro-cellulose and out
through squeezers or rollers, also accurately fitted. It is then to be treated as
herein before described. The material or threads is in some cases first rendered
One of the
waterproof by a coating of india rubber or in any desired manner.
objects for rendering the material or threads waterproof before applying the
octo-nitro-cellulose is to prevent the same from penetrating the fibres of the
fabric and so rendering it harsh and destroying its flexibility. When therefore
indiarubber is not used for this purpose the mode I prefer is to apply a thin sur-
face of paper or paper pulp on one or both sides of the fabric which on being
sized with glair or other suitable matter and either with or without a thin coating
of varnish will render the material or thread impervious and thus permit of a
thin coating of octo-nitro-cellulose being applied on the surface or surfaces
thereof without destroying its flexibility. Compound fabrics or papier-maché
thus coated may be used for numerous purposes in lieu of goods made of silk or
of silk and other materials as for example articles of dress, furniture and other
coverings, carriage linings, book covers, curtains and table covers, lace, ribbons,
braid and other trimmings, fringe and numerous other articles and
to
purposes
which silk and mixtures of silk and silk mixed with other materials are now
applied. When so desired the material is dyed printed or otherwise ornamented
before or after the application of the glair or other size and varnish and either
before or after the application of the octo-nitro-cellulose may be stamped or
embossed to imitate the texture and appearance of silk goods. For some pur-
poses a denitro-cellulose compound or collodium or a collodium flexile may be
used instead of octo-nitro-cellulose for effecting the desired object. Whichever
of these are used another mode of applying the same so as to ensure a thin and
even coating and at the same time prevent any undue loss of the ether and
alcohol present in such compounds is to provide a table on which the fabric is
On the sides of
stretched and secured at the edges in any convenient manner.
the table are two reservoirs to one of which there is an inlet supplied with a tap
into which the cellulose or collodium is poured, and a small outlet also supplied
The reservoir on the
with a tap, through which the displaced air escapes.
opposite side is supplied with an outlet on the bottom at one end also provided
with a tap. There is a cover to the table capable of being easily lifted to allow
of the fixing and removal of the fabric. This cover is made to press gently
on the fabric while the first reservoir is being filled. It is then slightly raised
by means of cams, screws or otherwise care being taken to provide as far as

page_text: "
possible against the loss of ether or alcohol by placing all round the table suitable
pads or strips of india rubber or other material. The table is then slightly tilted
whereby the octo-nitro-cellulose or collodium is caused to run over the fabric into
the reservoir on the other side, from which it is at once run into a close vessel
attached thereto. The fabric is then removed and the operation repeated as often
as desired.. In some cases the reservoirs are placed at the ends of the table
instead of the sides. The stamping or embossing to imitate a silk texture or
jacquard pattern may in this case also be done either before or after the applica-
tion of the collodium or octro-nitro cellulose In some cases a corded fabric similar
to those used when producing what are known as
"watered" or "moire-antique"
goods is used for the purposes of this invention in which case the watered or
moire-antique patterns are produced in the usual way by pressure without emboss-
ing. Lengths of paper simple or compound or of papier-maché on which it is
desired to produce a silk like effect or face may also be treated as herein before
described. These effects are further improved by dyeing instead of simply staining
such paper or compound paper articles, as the colour caused thereby to permeate
the entire substance and the most delicate tints and colours are thus obtainable.
This applies to all kinds of articles treated according to this invention as well as
to fabrics or those used in lieu of fabrics.
When treating moulded, hollow or other irregular shaped articles I place them
on trays in a suitable copper vessel then run therein the liquid cellulose until
the articles are sufficiently immersed after which the superfluous octo-nitro-
cellulose is run off into another vessel and the coated articles removed and treated
as hereinbefore described. Buttons and numerous other articles may thus have
imparted to them a silk-like surface and in order to improve that effect such
articles, as also fabrics, paper, trimmings, ribbons and other materials may be
embossed with electrotype or other rollers, plates moulds or dies either before
or after being coated. In producing buttons and other articles for the purposes
of this invention I prefer to use a paper pulp capable of taking the most delicate
dyes and impressions. For buttons a given quantity of pulp is poured into a
tube having, by preference, a moveable bottom with a recess therein when so
desired for holding a shank or other appliance by which it may be sewed to
garments or other articles. When sufficiently dry the moulded pulp is removed
from the tube and while in an unpressed state dyed, when so desired, then
saturated with a thin adhesive matter. It is then pressed or stamped to imitate
a hand made silk button or any desired pattern. Or instead of being first
moulded in tubes as above described the buttons may be cut out of sheets of
papier maché and treated as before described. In making articles of an irregular
form or design the tube or receptacle into which the pulp is poured is to be of
the form or configuration of the article, as for example studs, brooches, handles for
parasols, or other articles or indeed for any article of ornament or utility to which
the invention is applicable. The articles may be strengthened by a core of any
suitable material when so desired. When formed dyed or coloured the buttons
or other articles either before or after being finally stamped or embossed are
coated with octo-nitro-cellulose, or denitro cellulose compound. It will be obvious
that paper articles of this character are applicable to a great number and variety
of purposes as for example book and other covers, picture and other frames,
mounts for photos and other things, jewellery and other cases, artificial flowers.
dress and other ornaments, trimmings, fringe, tassels, various articles of dress
as collars, cuffs, hats or bonnets and numerous other articles. In forming hollow
articles whether of ornament or utility for the purposes of this invention I prefer
to make them of paper or pulp capable of taking delicate tints of dye also
delicate and sharp impressions in which case they are unbreakable, but the paper
covering may when so desired be formed on metal, glass, earthenware or other
fictile or metallic ware either wholly or in part or upon a canvas or other core
or lining. In whichever way produced they are to be stamped when practicable
to imitate a silk texture then coated with octo-nitro cellulose or denitro cellulose

page_text: compound or be covered with filaments or ribbons of finished octo-nitro cellulose
in the manner described for covering fabrics therewith on a drum. The same
applies to various solid articles around or on which the filaments may be wound
plaited or otherwise affixed.
In some cases a portion only of the surface is coated with octo-nitro cellulose.
This may be effected by pressing the fabric against an engraved roller revolving
in the cellulose. I prefer, however, for this purpose that an ordinary printing
arrangement with proper arrangements for coating the engraved roller be fixed
in a closo vessel provided with suitable inlets and outlets for the fabric. The
reservoir in which the octo-nitro cellulose is put for the supply of the roller must
be very accurately fitted so as to prevent as far as practicable the escape and
loss of ether and alcohol present in the cellulose. To effect this one or more
elastic rollers are fitted in separate reservoirs or separate compartments of one
reservoir in which they take a coating of cellulose and impart the same to the
engraved roller by being put in contact therewith. From the engraved roller it
is imparted to the fabric or paper or compound fabric in the usual way by pres-
sure. The articles to be treated may also if desired be coated on one side by
being brought in contact with plain rollers revolving in the fluid octo-nitro
cellulose. Whether wholly or partially coated the fabrics are afterwards to be
embossed or stamped and in some cases printed and otherwise ornamented with
bronze or other matter for the purpose of increasing the silk-like effect.
The threads which I prefer for the purposes of this invention are those of a
tubular non-fibrous or non-porous character and the paper or pulp that possessing
a silky lustre and pliability like or similar to those made by the Japanese.
Threads and filaments treated according to this invention may be used in con-
nection with real silk as well also as with mohair and other silk like products.
The apparatus employed is ordinary and well known and no claim is made in
respect to the same.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is:-
1. Coating or covering threads or filaments with octo-nitro cellulose or similar
matter and treating them as herein before described or with filaments made from
octo-nitro-cellulose.
2. Coating or covering fabrics whether simple or compound either wholly or in
part with octo-nitro cellulose or similar matter then treating them as hereinbefore
described or with filaments made thereof; also dyeing, stamping, embossing and
otherwise treating the same to imitate silk goods.
3. Rendering fabrics impervious to cellulose by coating them with india rubber
or with paper or paper pulp which on being coated with glair and a thin coating
of varnish will have a like effect then coating them with octo-nitro cellulose or
similar matter and treating them as herein before described or covering them
with filaments or ribbons made of octo-nitro cellulose in either case wholly or in
part; also dyeing, embossing, stamping, and otherwise treating them to make
them further imitate silk goods.
4. Coating or covering moulded and wrought articles of paper, papier maché or
other material or materials whether solid or hollow with octo nitro cellulose or
similar matter and treating them as herein before described or with filaments or
ribbons made therefrom and when so desired dyeing, stamping, embossing or
otherwise treating them to produce a silk like surface and effect thereon sub-
stantially as described.
5. The application of articles made and treated as herein before described to the
several purposes named and indicated.
1. 17th Jauh 1800