Iм- PROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES OR OTHER COVERINGS FOR THE FEET, PARTS OF WHICH IMPROVEMENTS ARE ALSO APPLICABLE IN THE MANUFACTURE OF MILL STRAPS OR BANDS, HARNESS, HOSE PIPES, AND OTHER SIMILAR ARTICLES, AND IN THE MACHINERY, APPARATUS, OR MEANS TO BE USED FOR EFFECTING SUCH PURPOSES."
Year: 1870

page_text: '
ETTERS PATENT to Thomas White, of Leeds, in the County of York
Engineer and Mechanical Draughtsman, for the Invention of “Iм-
PROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES OR OTHER COVERINGS
FOR THE FEET, PARTS OF WHICH IMPROVEMENTS ARE ALSO APPLICABLE IN THE
MANUFACTURE OF MILL STRAPS OR BANDS, HARNESS, HOSE PIPES, AND OTHER
SIMILAR ARTICLES, AND IN THE MACHINERY, APPARATUS, OR MEANS TO BE USED
FOR EFFECTING SUCH PURPOSES."
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Thomas White at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
12th October 1870.
I, THOMAS WHITE, of Leeds, in the County of York, Engineer and
Mechanical Draughtsman, do hereby declare the nature of the said
Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES OR
OTHER COVERINGS FOR THE FEET, PARTS OF WHICH IMPROVEMENTS ARE ALSO APPLICABLE
IN THE MANUFACTURE OF MILL STRAPS OR BANDS, HARNESS, HOSE PIPES, AND.
A

page_text: OTHER SIMILAR ARTICLES, AND IN THE MACHINERY, APPARATUS, OR MEANS TO BE
USED FOR EFFECTING SUCH PURPOSES," to be as follows:-
This Invention relates, firstly, to the manufacture of boots and shoes
or other coverings for the feet in a more efficient and complete manner
than hitherto, and to improved machinery or apparatus for carrying such
object into effect, and this part of the Invention as applied to the soles
and heels of boots and shoes or other coverings for the feet is as follows:
-The sole is first cut into the required shape, and it is then placed in
the rivetting machine to receive the wire pins or rivets which are passed
only partly through, and are afterwards driven home by hand or by other
suitable means. As many rows of rivetting work as may be desired can
be placed in the soles and heels, I sometimes use a thin piece of wood
placed upon the mover and guide plate, so that the machine drives the
pins or rivets through the leather so far as to be level with the surface,
the points entering into the wood. When the work is completed by the
machine the work under operation is striped off the wood and the rivets
or pins can be driven into the other portions forming the sole or heel by
hand or any suitable appliance. I sometimes also use a metal plate with
grooves or slits cut into it, so that the machine can drive the pins or
rivets through the leather without turning the points.
The machine or apparatus for placing the pins or rivets in the leather
is constructed as follows:-The machine is almost the same as the one
for which Letters Patent were granted to me bearing date the Twelfth
day of July One thousand eight hundred and sixty-four, No. 368, with
the exception that according to that Patent the rivets or pins were driven
home by the machine on to a hard or resisting substance or surface and
were not as in the present machine intended to be driven by a second
operation by hand or other means into the other portions forming the
boot or shoe; also a stop, as described for the machine to strike upon, I
intend again to use but in another form. I trace the motion backwards
from the point where the work is moved along to the driving pulley on
the main shaft, and also the cam or eccentric on the main shaft which
moves the lever, to which is connected the vertical slide or head which
performs the work before named.
I use an ordinary spur wheel and a rack guide the same as specified 3
under my former Patent, this wheel has a collar or boss. On the top of
the rack guide is fixed a copying plate which works against the collar of
the spur wheel. When this apparatus is used the wood slip, or thin

page_text: board, and also the metal plate with grooves or slits cut into it, as before-
named, when describing the uses thereof, are used. I also use a fine cut
spur wheel having sharp teeth against which the sole or other part is
pressed by hand. On each side of this wheel are flat plates larger in
diameter than the wheel, so as to form flanges which keep the sole or
heel from moving upwards or downwards, but leave it free so that the
wheel as it rotates carries the sole or heel horizontally, and as it moves
along it receives reciprocally the pins or rivets as described. A stud is
placed on the same horizontal plain as the wheel or wheels for moving
the work; this stud is placed a little distance from the wheel or wheels or
other apparatus for moving the work, so that the rivets or pins when
driven into or through the leather forming the sole or heel enter the
space left between the stud and the wheel or other moving apparatus, or
I sometimes use a larger stud which fills up the space.
The spur wheel and other moving apparatus before described is fixed
on a short vertical shaft which runs in a slide casting, part of which
forms a bracket in which is fixed one of a pair of bevel wheels, the other
is on the lower end of the short vertical shaft, and through the bevel
wheel which is placed in the bracket the horizontal shaft to drive them
runs, and in which a key slide is cut for the key which is placed in the
bevel wheel in the bracket to slide in. Motion is given to this shaft by
a wheel and catch pawl. The wheel is placed on the end of the shaft,
and one portion of the lever which carries the catch pawl also. The.
other lever is fixed to the main casting, a slot is cut into each, a sliding
die is fixed in one by a bolt and screw. To the said lever, which works
on a stud screwed into the main casting, is fixed the connecting rod, the
other end of which works on a stud fixed in a slide groove in the main
shaft, which stud can be placed at any distance out of the centre to suit
the pitch of the work required to be done. The main shaft runs through
two projecting brackets on the main casting. An excentric is placed on
this shaft. The portion forming the strap is made in three parts, two
forming the strap of the eccentric, and solid, with which is half the con-
necting rod; in this is a right and left-hand screw, one half in each portion
of the connecting rod. The other end of the said rod is connected to the
main lever by a bolt and nut. This main lever has its fulcrum in the main
casting of the machine, and at the other end of the lever is the head or
vertical slide for performing the work. On this slide is fixed by means
of studs the apparatus for moving down the wire for the pins or rivets,
A 2

page_text: also the cutting and driving apparatus for cutting the wire into pins
or rivets and driving them into the leather forming the soles or heels. I
sometimes use an air pump for the purpose of blowing away the scrap
pieces cut in forming the wire pins or rivets, which air pump will be
operated from the main shaft by means of an eccentric or cam.
The second part of this Invention relates to an improved manufacture
of mill straps or bands, or picking arms for looms, and of harness and
hose pipes or the like, and to improved machinery or appliances to be
used therein.
In the machine and the improvements made therein for rivetting or
wire sewing, having special reference to my previous Patent, the machine
was made in two forms, or there were two kinds of motion for moving the
work, one a horizontal traverse slide, the other a roller, cylinder, or wheel,
to which other wheels, cylinders, or rollers were added as required.
Now according to the present improvements by a combination of both
motions. I obtain a more perfect and universal means of moving the
work, both as regards the intermittent feed which moves and regulates
the distance between the rivets (or, as they are sometimes called,
stitches) and the number of rows or divisions of work required in the
mill strap, harness, hose pipe, or other articles.
In constructing the combined mover I place four horizontal flanged
wheels or pullies on two slides, two on each, which slides move on
square or V lip planed surfaces which are solid with the main casting.
The flanged wheels or pullies are similar to those before described for
rivetting boots and shoes, but for mill straps I sometimes use an india-
rubber covering to prevent the teeth in the wheel from indenting the edge
of the edge of the strap, or an india-rubber casing within the flanges to drive
by friction. Two of the said flanged wheels have motion given to them
exactly by the same means as that described for boots and shoes, except
that the shaft is placed horizontally outside or on one side of the machine
and two pairs of bevil wheels receive their motion from it, one of each
pair being fixed in a bracket from each slide, the shaft running through
both. In the said shaft is cut a key slide, and a key is placed in each
of the bevil wheels in the brackets. These bevil wheels are placed with
their teeth facing opposite ways, so that the others working into them a
move the before-named flanged wheels or pullies the contrary way to
each other. Those bevil wheels and the flanged wheels or pullies are
connected by a short vertical shaft in the same way as that described

page_text: for boots and shoes. On the end of this horizontal shaft, flush with the
bracket through which the shaft runs, is placed a hand wheel which is
to enable the operator to move the work by hand independent of the
motions of the machine. I use this hand motion for the joints in mill
straps. The horizontal shaft obtains its motion in the same way exactly
as the one described for boots and shoes and is essentially the same
machine. The changes for producing the different lines of work are
made of two screws, one connects the two slides on which the four
flanged wheels are mounted and is fixed in one of the said slides by a
collar and other suitable appliances, and when it is turned it moves
the other out or in, as may be desired. The other screw is fixed by
similar means into a boss in the main casting and works into one of the
two slides before named, so that the combination regulates for the width
of the work and the division required therein to produce the lines or
rows of work in the mill strap, or in harness, hose pipes, or other similar
articles. An air pump may be also used with this machine for blowing
away the scrap pieces cut in forming the wire pins or rivets. This
machine can be arranged to rivet or wire sew two or more rows at once
in hose pipes.
The apparatus for forming the leather from a flat surface into a round
hollow tube or pipe, such as hose pipe is constructed. as follows, and for
this purpose I use a taper curved apparatus something like a hemmer.
used in sewing machines, but made much stronger, and to which is attached
a steel die with an incline slot hole for the point of the rivet to enter,
and as it works up the incline it becomes hooked and. finally clenched
by the repeated blows or nips given by the machine. In the top cutter
is another hole to correspond with the one in the steel die, which also
curves or hooks the top part of the rivet, and thereby forms the same
into a curve resembling the letter C, as described under my said former
Patent. The moving or feed apparatus is the same, namely, four flanged
wheels or pullies as previously described.
The machine and apparatus for shaping and finishing boot and shoe
heels or soles, either on or off the boot or shoe, is constructed as
follows -On a cast iron pillar having three or more brackets into two
of which is fixed a vertical shaft with a boss on the top of it, into which
boss is fixed by means of screws the cutters for shaping the heels and
the soles of boots & shoes or other coverings for the feet in leather
and wood or other suitable material. The work is fixed between two

page_text: centres similar to the headstocks of a lathe, which are part of and cast
solid in the rocking frame herein-after described. In one of the head-
stocks is placed a short horizontal shaft, on one end of which is placed
the boot or shoe heel or other article to be operated upon, and at the
other side of the same headstock, and on the same shaft as the work, is
fixed the copying plate or cam. The work and the copying plate or
cam are both fixed firnily by means of suitable appliances to this shaft
so that the movement of each corresponds exactly with the other. On
the extreme end of the said shaft is a hand wheel by which the work is
moved for the cutters to operate upon. In the other headstock is a
suitable centre, and I prefer to use a steel die for the centre point to
work in, which steel die will take the shape of the top piece of the heel
and may have cut or engraved upon it the maker's name or any orna-
mental design or device. The headstocks and rocking frame are so
arranged that the boot, shoe, or other article is free to turn upon the
centres. The cam or copying plate works against a roller or other
suitable contrivance placed in the third bracket in the main casting or
pillar before-named, which said third bracket also takes the form of a
headstock and is fitted with the ordinary barrel, screw, and hand wheel,
and by which the rocking frame is regulated the proper distance from
the cutters, the copying plate or cam giving the shape. The rocking
frame is mounted on a circular plate, fitted with the usual V's and
screws with a set screw to fix it into the required position; by this
means any taper in the heel or other article can be obtained. I some-
times mount the whole on another slide so as to be able to get a greater
distance from the cutters. On the same bed is fixed another pillar
similar to the one before described and in the same vertical line. In the
latter pillar is placed the buffing wheel which can be made to rotate
either the same way as the cutters or in a vertical line as may be desired.
The same bracket and headstock arrangement as before described for
the copying plate or cam to work against are used, and a separate
motion is given to each so that one can stand while the other is at work,
the rocking frame being placed between the two is simply turned from
one to the other without removing the work. I sometimes mount the
rocking frame or rocking frames on a circular bed when four or more
may be used, the whole of the cutting, buffing, and finishing apparatus,
being placed within the circle, so that as the rocking frames are passed
round from point to point the operation of shaping and finishing
proceeds, the finishing process being exactly the same as described for

page_text: shaping Any other suitable appliance may be used in the finishing
process, such as a fixed knife to take off the rough edges and a seat
wheel, the copying plate or cam being used for every operation.
The apparatus for lasting or blocking the upper to the last of boots
and shoes or other coverings for the feet is as follows:-On a suitable
cast-iron plate is fixed a stud at one end and a pillar at the other. The
pillar having a cupped or hollowed out top which is covered with
leather, india-rubber, or other suitable substance. The stud enters a
hole in the heel part of the last and the toe part rests in the cup or
hollowed out top. I sometimes make the stud a screw and give motion
to it underneath the cast-iron plate by suitable means, either by a
wheel directly connected with the stud or by a pair of bevil wheels
with short shaft and hand wheels at the side or end of the plate. This
arrangement is for holding the last. All round this iron plate and at
suitable distances apart are placed the apparatus for lasting or blocking
the upper to the last, each one of the said apparatus is provided with a
segment or portion of plate or casting, which when altogether forms the
exact counterpart of the last both in outline and contour. This
apparatus is simply a short pillar or support for the lever which holds
the segment of the plate or casting before named, and is provided with a
joint at the lower end so as to be able to be turned back out of the way of
the operator when putting on or taking off the last. This joint is some-
thing like the arrangement in certain kinds of window fasteners, and is.
provided with a roller which works upon a spring, the spring holds the
pillar in its position by pressing upon the roller at one side, the other
side resting by a projection on the plate or casting, the centre being
secured by a pin through two lugs in the casting and through a corre-
sponding hole in the pillar; on the top of this pillar also in a joint; or
on a centre is the lever with the segment (before alluded to) attached.
The pillar can be placed at a tangent or at right angles with the plate,
so that when the lever is pressed down by the hand of the operator with
the boot or shoe upper between it and the last, the pillar by the aid of
the spring and the pressure of the lever above by the hand of the
operator strains the upper tight upon the last and carries it over the
insole previously placed upon the last, the upper and insole being: pre-
viously cemented, the apparatus holds it in position until the cement is
set, the operation is repeated until the whole of the apparatus have been
brought into use when the boot or shoe or other covering for the fee

page_text: are lasted or blocked to the last. To accelerate the process of lasting
or blocking the upper to the last I sometimes make the toe and heel
portion in two parts with a joint something like a pair of tongs.
SPECIFICATION filed in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters
Patent, and of an Order of the Lord Chancellor, by the said Thomas
White in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 19th April 1871.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, THOMAS
WHITE, of Number 5, Warwick Place, Leeds, in the County of York,
Engineer and Mechanical Draughtsman, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Twelfth day of October, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy, in the thirty-fourth
year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give
and grant unto me, the said Thomas White, Her special licence that I,
the said Thomas White, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such
others as I, the said Thomas White, my executors, administrators, and
assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time
and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should
and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United
Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle
of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND
SHOES OR OTHER COVERINGS FOR THE FEET, PARTS OF WHICH IMPROVEMENTS ARE
ALSO APPLICABLE IN THE MANUFACTURE OF MILL STRAPS OR BANDS, HARNESS, HOSE
PIPES, AND OTHER SIMILAR ARTICLES, AND IN THE MACHINERY, APPARATUS, OR
MEANS TO BE USED FOR EFFECTING SUCH PURPOSES," upon the condition (amongst 2
others) that I, the said Thomas White, my executors or administrators,
by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands
and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the
said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and
cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office on or before a
the Twentieth day of April One thousand eight hundred and seventy-
one.
NOW KNOW VE that T the said Thama hi

page_text: be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement thereof, that is to say :—
The first part of my Invention relates to the manufacture of boots
and shoes or other coverings for the feet in a more efficient and complete
manner than that hitherto adopted, and to improved machinery or
apparatus for carrying such objects into effect, and this part of the
Invention as applied to the soles and heels of boots and shoes or other
coverings for the feet is as follows:-The machine which I use for this
purpose is in most respects similar to the one for which Letters Patent
were granted to me bearing date the Twelfth day of February One
thousand eight hundred and sixty-four, No. 368, but with important
modifications which I now will proceed to describe. According to my
former Patent the pins or rivets used for uniting the soles and uppers
of boots, shoes, or other coverings for the fect were driven home and
clenched by the machine on to a hard or resisting substance or surface,
whereas by my present improved machine the pins or rivets are driven
only first through the sole leaving the said pins or rivets to be afterwards
driven into the upper or other portions forming the boot or shoe by a
second operation performed by hand or other suitable means. The sole
is first cut into the required shape and it is then placed in the machine
to receive the wire pins or rivets which are passed only just through or
a little more than through the sole and are afterwards driven home by
hand or other suitable means. As many rows of rivetting work as may
be desired can be placed into the soles and heels. I sometimes use a
thin piece of wood placed upon the mover and guide plate so that the
machine drives the pins or rivets through the leather so far as to be
level with the surface, the points entering into the wood. When the
work is completed by the machine the part under operation is stripped
off the wood and the pins or rivets are afterwards driven into the other
portions forming the sole and heel by hand or any suitable appliance.
I also sometimes use a metal plate with grooves or slits cut into it so
that the machine can drive the pins or rivets through the leather with-
out turning the points.
The machine or apparatus for placing the pins or rivets in the leather
is as follows:-In most respects this machine is identical with that
described in the Specification of my Patent of Twelfth February One
thousand eight hundred and sixty-four, No. 368, as will be seen on a
comparison of the Drawings hereunto annexed with these annexed to

page_text: my said former Specification. I use an ordinary spur wheel and rack
guide, the same as specified under my said former Patent. This wheel
has a collar or boss and on the top of the rack guide is fixed a copying
plate which works against the collar of the spur wheel. When this
apparatus is used the thin piece of wood and the metal plate with
grooves or slits cut into it before mentioned are used with it. I also
.use a fine cut spur wheel having sharp teeth, against which the sole, &c.
is pressed by hand. On each side of this wheel are flat plates larger in
diameter than the wheel so as to form flanges which keep the sole or
heel from moving upward or downward during the progress of the work,
but leave it free except where its edge is pressed against the wheel for
the purpose of being moved onward, and the wheel is made to rotate
intermittently so that the wheel as it rotates carries the sole or heel
round in its own plane, and as the sole or heel moves round it receives
the pins or rivets at the proper distances from each other. The distances
between the rivets can be varied at pleasure by adapting the connecting
rod herein-after described. A stud is placed in the same plane as the
wheel which moves the work. This stud is placed at a little distance
from the wheel so that the pins or rivets when driven into or through
the leather forming the sole or heel enter the space left between the
stud and the wheel without their points being blunted. If I wish to
clench the rivets by the operation of the machine so as to produce a
blank row or rows of rivets I may do so by this machine by using a
larger stud which fills up the space before mentioned and forms an
anvil on which the work is rivetted.
The spur wheel before described is fixed on the upper end of a short
vertical shaft which turns in a slide casting which is continued down-
wards in the form of a bracket, and one of a pair of bevel wheels is
fixed on the lower end of the shaft. The other wheel is fixed on the
bracket and is turned by a horizontal shaft which runs through it and a
in which a key slide is cut. When the key is in its place the last-
mentioned bevel wheel moves round with the shaft in whatever position
the slide casting may be. Motion is given to the shaft by a wheel and
catch pawl or silent feed. The wheel is placed on. the end of the shaft,
and one portion of the compound lever which carries the catch pawl is 3
placed there also. The outer portion of the lever is fixed on the main
casting, a slot is cut into each portion and a sliding die is fixed in one
of them by a bolt and screws. To this lever which works on a stud

page_text: screwed into the main casting is fixed the connecting rod for giving
motion to the compound lever by an eccentric through which the main
driving shaft runs. Another mode of giving motion to the horizontal
shaft is by means of an adjustable stud which can be placed at any
distance out of the centre to suit the pitch of the work required to be
done. The main shaft runs through two projecting brackets on the
main casting and an eccentric is placed on this shaft. The strap of the
eccentric is made in two parts, the upper part being solid with the lower
portion of the connecting rod. The lower portion of the connecting rod
is joined to the upper portion of it by a right and left hand screw, and
the upper end of the said rod is connected to the main lever by a bolt and
nut. This main lever has its fulcrum in the main casting of the machine,
and at the other end of the lever is the head or vertical slide for per- .
forming the work. On this slide is fixed by means of studs the apparatus
for moving down the wire out of which the pins or rivets are to be
formed, also the cutting and driving apparatus for cutting the wire into
pins or rivets and driving them into the leather forming the soles or heels.
I sometimes use an air pump or pair of bellows for the purpose of
blowing away the scrap pieces cut in forming the wire pins or rivets,
which air pump or bellows may be operated from the main shaft by
means of an eccentric or cam.
The second part of the Invention relates to an improved manufacture
of mill straps or bands, or picking arms for looms and of harness,
hose pipes, and other similar articles, and to improved machinery or
appliances to be used therein. The machine which I now use for these
purposes is an adaptation of and improvement upon the machine com-
prised in my said former Letters Patent of One thousand eight hundred
and sixty-four, No. 368. My former machine was made in two forms,
or there were two kinds of motion for moving the work, one a hori-
zontal traverse slide, and the other a roller cylinder or wheel to which
other wheel cylinders or rollers were added as required. Now in my
present improved machine by a combination of both these motions I
obtain a more perfect and universal means of moving the work both as
regards the intermittent feed, which moves and regulates the distance
between the rivets (or as they are sometimes called stiches), and the
number of rows or division of work required in the mill strap, harness,
hose pipe, or other articles. In constructing the combined mover I
place four horizontal flanged wheels or pulleys on two slides, two on
each slide, which slides move on square or, V lip planed surfaces which

page_text: are solid with the main casting and the leather strap or work is held
between the wheels, one slide with its two wheels being on each side
of the leather. Two of these flanged wheels (one on each side) are
moved in opposite directions by the means presently to be described, and
their use is to move the leather forward. These two wheels or pulleys
are similar to those before described for rivetting boots and shoes, that
is to say, they are fine cut spur wheels having flanges on either side,
but I sometimes use an india-rubber covering to prevent the teeth in
the wheels from indenting the edge of the strap or an india-rubber
casing or circular piece of india-rubber within the flanges to move the
leather strap or work along by friction. The other two flanged wheels
(one on each slide) move freely on their axes and act as guides. The
first described pair of flanged wheels which move the work have motion
given to them by an arrangement of wheels and shafts, similar to that
already described in connection with the machine for rivetting boots
and shoes, except that the horizontal shaft is placed outside or on one side
of the machine, and that it carries two bevel wheels placed with their
teeth facing opposite ways. These work into the bevel wheels placed
on the lower ends of the vertical shafts which carry the flanged wheels
on their upper ends, and the before-named flanged wheels or pulleys
therefore move the contrary way to each other. On the end of the
horizontal shaft is placed a hand wheel which enables the operator to
move the work by hand independant of the motions of the machine.
I use this hand motion for moving the strap forward between the
operations performed on the joints of the strap. The horizontal shaft
obtains its motion in the same way exactly as the one described for boots
and shoes. The distance between the two slides on which the four
flanged wheels are mounted, can be varied at pleasure according to the
width of the strap or other work to be operated on by means of a
screw fixed in one of the slides by a collar and suitable appliances, and
working into a boss on the other slide, so that when it is turned it moves
the other slide out or in as may be desired. Another screw fixed by
similar means into a boss on the main casting works into another boss
on one of the two slides before-named, and by turning this screw the
position of the two slides and of the work held between them with
reference to the wire line, can be regulated at pleasure according to the
number of rows of rivets required in the mill strap or in harness, hose
pipes, or other similar articles. An air pump or bellows may also be
used with this machine for blowing away the scrap pieces cut in forming

page_text: the wire pins or rivets. This machine can be arranged to rivet or wire
sew two or more rows at once in hose pipes.
The apparatus for forming the leather from a flat surface into a round
hollow tube or pipe, such as hose pipe, is constructed as follows, and
for this purpose I use a taper curved apparatus something like the
hemmer used in sewing machines, but made much stonger, and to which
is attached a steel die with an incline slot hole for the point of the rivet to.
enter, and as it works up the incline the rivet becomes hooked, and finally.
clenched by the repeated blows or nips given by the machine. In the
top cutter is another hole to correspond with the one in the steel die
which also curves or hooks the top part of the rivet, and thereby forms
the same into a curve resembling the letter C as described under my said.
former Patent. The apparatus for moving the work forward is similar
to that used for straps or harness, namely, four flanged wheels or pulleys.
The machine and apparatus for shaping and finishing out of leather,
wood, or other suitable materials the heels of boots, shoes, and other
coverings for the feet either on or off the boot is constructed as
follows: The machine comprises two cast-iron pillars fixed at a short
distance from each other on the same bed, and each of them has three'
or more brackets cast solid with it. In two of the brackets, cast upon one.
of these pillars, is fixed a vertical shaft with a boss on the top of it, into
which boss are fixed, by means of screws, cutters working horizontally
for shaping the heel. The third bracket holds a headstock carrying a
roller which works against the copying plate on the rocking frame
herein-after described. The other pillar is similar in shape but the
brackets on it are placed horizontally and carry one or more vertical
cutters. The leather or other material being first roughly shaped by:
the means herein-after described is fixed between two centres similar to
the headstocks of a lathe which are part of and cast solid with a rocking.
frame herein-after described. In one of the headstocks is placed a short
horizontal shaft, on one end of which is placed the material for the boot
or shoe heel, and at the other side of the same headstock and on the
same shaft as the work is fixed the copying plate or cam for regulating.
the shape of the heel. The work and the copying plate or cam are both
fixed firmly. by means of suitable appliances to this shaft, so that the
movement of each corresponds exactly with the other. On the extreme
end of the shaft is a pulley or hand wheel by which the work is turned.
round whilst the cutters operate upon it. In the other headstock is a

page_text: suitable centre, and I prefer to use a steel die for the centre point to
work in, which steel die corresponds in shape with the top piece of the
heel, and may have cut or engraved upon it the maker's name or any
other ornamental design or device, which cutting or engraving serves
also as a roughing of the said steel die so as to prevent the slipping of
the work to be operated upon. The headstocks and rocking frame are
so arranged that the boot or shoe or other article is free to turn upon
the centres. The rocking frame is placed between the two pillars and
is held up by hand or by an elastic band against one or other of the two
pillars, so that the cutters fixed on the pillar may operate on the work.
The cam or copying plate in the rocking frame works against a roller
or other suitable contrivance placed in the third bracket of the pillar
before-named, which bracket also takes the form of a headstock and is
fitted with the ordinary barrel screw and hand wheel and by which the
rocking frame is regulated at the proper distance from the cutters, the
copying plate or cam giving the shape. The rocking frame is mounted
on a circular plate fitted with the usual V's and screws with a set screw
to fix it into the required position; by this means any taper in the heel
or other article can be obtained. I sometimes mount the whole on
another slide so as to be able to get the work at a greater distance from
the cutters. The buffing wheel used for polishing the work is on one
of the pillars and can be made to rotate either the same way as the
cutters or in a vertical line as may be desired. The same bracket and
headstock arrangement as before described for the copying plate or cam
to work against are used, and a separate motion is given to each so that
one can stand while the other is at work, the rocking frame being placed
between the two is simply turned from one to the other without
removing the work. I sometimes mount the rocking frame or two or
more rocking frames on a circular bed when four or more may be used,
the whole of the cutting, buffing, and finishing apparatus being placed
within the circle, so that as the rocking frames are passed round from
point to point the operation of shaping and finishing proceeds, the
finishing process being exactly the same as that described for shaping.
Any other suitable appliance may be used in the finishing process, such
as a fixed knife to take off the rough edges and a seat wheel, the copying
plate or cam being used for every operation.
For the purpose of forming the heels of boots or shoes without waste
of material and with economy of labour, I make use of two metal plates
one surface of each of which plates is so shaped as to be equivalent in

page_text: effect to a succession of dies corresponding alternately to the upper and
lower surfaces of the heels. The two plates are made from the same
model so that when one of them is inverted over the other the dies
representing the upper surfaces of heels on one plate are opposed to the
dies representing the lower surfaces of heels on the other plate. When
the plates are to be used, split lifts of leather are placed in the hollowed
out curves which represent the upper surfaces for the heels and a layer
of leather made up of the same size as the plates is cemented on both
surfaces and placed on one of the plates. Other layers similarly
cemented are added till the desired thickness has been obtained and
then the other plate is reversed and placed on the top layer and imme-
diately over the lower plate. The two plates with the leather between
them are then subjected to pressure by means of a screw or hydraulic
press, and when the cement is set the plates are removed and the leather
cut up by a saw or other suitable cutter so as to separate the heels from
each other, the cutter being passed through the leather at an angle
equal to the taper of the boot heel. By these means a great saving. of
leather and also of labour is effected and the heels produced are of better
shape and more durable than those made by hand.
The apparatus which I use for lasting or blocking the upper leather of
boots and shoes or other covering for the feet to the last is as follows :—
On a suitable cast-iron plate is fixed a stud at one end and a pillar at the
other. The pillar having a cupped or hollowed out top which is covered
with leather, india-rubber, or other suitable substance. The stud enters a
hole in the heel part of the last, and the toe part rests in the cup or
hollowed out top. I sometimes make the stud a screw and give motion
to it underneath the cast-iron plate by suitable means, either by a wheel
directly connected with the stud or by a pair of bevel wheels with a
short shaft and hand wheel at the side or end of the plate. This arrange-
ment is for holding the last. All around this iron plate and at suitable
distances apart are placed the levers used for lasting or blocking the
upper to the last.
Each of the levers has attached to it a segment or
casting of such a shape that when all the segments
are placed together they form the exact counterpart of the last both in
outline and contour. Each lever is supported on a short pillar or support
and is provided with a joint at the lower end so as to be able to be
turned back out of the way of the operator when putting on or taking off
the last. This joint is something like the arrangement in certain kinds
portion of plate or

page_text: of window fasteners, and is provided with a roller which works upon a
spring. The spring holds the pillar in its position by pressing upon the
roller at one side. The other side rests by a projection on the plate or
casting and the centre is secured by a pin through two lugs in the
casting and through a corresponding hole in the pillar. On the top of
this pillar also in a joint or on a centre is the lever with the segment
(before alluded to) attached to it. The pillar can be placed at a tangent
or at right angles with the plate, so that when the lever is pressed down
by the hand of the operator with the upper leather of the boot or shoe
between it and the last, the pillar by the aid of the spring and the pressure
of the lever above by the hand of the operator strains the upper leather
tight upon the last and carries it over the insole previously placed upon
the last, the upper leather and insole being previously cemented the
apparatus holds it in position until the cement is set. The operation is
repeated until the whole of the levers have been brought into use when
the boot or shoe is lasted or blocked to the last. To accelerate the
process of lasting or blocking the upper leather to the last I sometimes
make the toe and heel portion in two parts with a joint something like a
pair of tongs. To enable the operator to ascertain whether his work is
true as he proceeds I place a mirror or reflecting plate beneath the last
on the plate between the pillar and the stud which enables him to detect
any inaccuracy in his work.
Having now described the nature of my Invention I will now proceed
to describe the same more particularly with reference to the annexed
Drawings which are drawn to a scale of one-half of the size of the actual
machines; and in each of the Figures of the said Drawings the same
letters of reference indicate similar parts.

page_text: running through it with the spur wheel and its flanges b¹ on its upper
end, and one bevel wheel c¹ on its lower end; d is the horizontal shaft
running through the other bevel wheel and the bracket, and the key
slide in this shaft is shewn at h¹; f¹ represents the screw by which the
position of the slide casting with reference to the wire line is regulated,
and g¹ is the silent feed. Motion is given to the horizontal shaft d' by
the silent feed g¹ which is similar to the one described in my former
Patent, but I sometimes use an ordinary toothed wheel and catch pawl,
which is fully described in Figure 2, Sheet 3, and when the moveable
centre, shown in Figure 2, Sheet 3, and marked E" is used a single
lever and catch pawl only are required; K" is the eccentric; is the
lower portion of its strap, and 7™ is the upper portion of the strap and
the lower portion of the connecting rod; m¹¹ is the upper portion, and o"
is the right and left-hand screw connecting the two portions of the rod;
N" is the main lever; P" is its fulcrum; Qu is the connecting rod which
conveys motion from the main lever to the apparatus R" which cuts the
rivets; S is the upper portion of the curved connecting link which
moves the apparatus for feeding down the wire; w¹ is the lever for
working the clutch motion; u¹ is the hand wheel at the end of the
horizontal driving shaft; is the driving pulley; v represents the
clutches; 20 and 20¹ are the brackets solid with the main casting
through which the horizontal main driving shaft runs, and between
which the eccentric K" is placed; h", ", represents the rod connecting
the silent feed motion with the main driving shaft. The slot in the boss
and the socket washer and nut used for regulating the distance between
the rivets are shown at ¹¹.
.
Figure 5, Sheet 2, is a horizontal section of the motion for feeding
down the wire made through the dotted line B, B', in Figure 4, Sheet 2.
6 is a lever placed upon an eccentric stud; a is the silent feed motion
for feeding down the wire.
Figure 3, Sheet 1, represents in plan the sole of a boot or shoe with
the rivets as inserted in it by the machine, and the section through one
row of rivets immediately beneath the plan shews the position of the
rivets in the leather when it comes from the machine. It is obvious
that the position of these rivets may be varied according to the taste and
fancy of the operator.
In place of the slide bracket which holds the stud and horizontal

page_text: The motions for feeding down the wire for boot and shoe manu-
facture are precisely the same as those shown on the Drawings and
Specifications of my former Patent except that one roller is placed upon
an eccentric stud, to which is connected a short lever as shown at b,
Figure 5, Sheet 2, and in the plan Figure 4, Sheet 2, at B. But for
mill straps, &c., I have used and prefer to use a ratchet wheel, behind
which and on the same stud is a toothed wheel which works into one
of two others of smaller diameter, the whole three being geared together.
In front of the two smaller wheels are placed on the same studs a pair
of fine cut or fluted rollers, the motion being given by the main lever
through the curved connecting rod shown at S", Figure 4, Sheet 2.
Figure 1, Sheet 3, is a side elevation of my improved machine for the
manufacture of mill straps, &c.; Figure 2, Sheet 3, is a front elevation,
and Figure 3, Sheet 3, is a plan of the same. The chief improvements
consist in the new arrangement of the machinery or apparatus for
moving the work, which may thus be described :-X, X, are the two
moveable slides, and which carry the four flanged wheels for moving and
guiding the work, and these slides are regulated by the screws Y, Y.
The two wheels which move the work are marked 61, 6. Motion is
given to these flanged wheels by the two bevel wheels c¹¹, c, placed
with their teeth in opposite directions on the horizontal shaft, and
working into the bevel wheels marked a placed on the lower ends of
the short vertical shafts, on the top of which the flanged pulleys 6,
are mounted. Motion is given to the horizontal shaft by the ratchet or
toothed wheel du actuated by the compound lever E". This lever
receives its motion from the eccentric G¹ placed on the main driving
shaft which runs through two brackets, one of which is shown at F™.
On this main shaft is placed an eccentric which is connected by means
of a strap and connecting rod with the main lever, all these parts being
precisely similar to the corresponding parts of the machines for rivetting
boots and shoes already described and shewn in Figure 1, Sheet 1.
Figure 5, Sheet 1, is a front elevation, and Figure 6, Sheet 1, is a side
elevation of the apparatus for forming the leather from a flat surface
into a round hollow tube or pipe, such as a hose pipe. This apparatus
somewhat resembles the hemmer used in sewing machines, but made
much stronger, and Figure 7, Sheet 1, is a side elevation of the steel die
to be used with the said apparatus. In the upper side of this steel die
at a there is an incline slot hole for the point of the rivets to enter.

page_text: This apparatus and the steel die are to be attached to the bed of the
machine represented at Figure 3, Sheet 3, between the four flanged
wheels in place of the steel bar which is to be removed for that purpose.
The position which the apparatus is to occupy is shown by the dotted
lines marked Z, Z, Z, Z.
The Drawings on Sheet 4 represent the machine and apparatus for
shaping and finishing the heels of boots, shoes, and other coverings for
the feet. Figure 1, Sheet 4, is the side elevation, and Figure 2, Sheet 4,
the front elevation of the principal machine. g is one end of the
rocking frame working on centres, one of which is shown at h, and
through which centres the driving shaft m works. These centres are
sockets with 2 collars each, and the parts between the collars are
square, as shewn at H, H, Figure 2. The ends of the sockets h, h, on
which the rocking frame centres are round. At the top of this rocking
frame are the headstocks for holding the leather to be shaped into boot
or shoe heels, and on the shaft which works through the centres ƒ is
placed the driving pulley c' which receives its motion by a belt from a
smaller pulley c (Figure 2) immediately below it. On the other end of
the shaft which runs through the headstock f¹ (Figure 2) is a face plate
in the form of the cam or copying plate B, used either double or single,
against which the leather is pressed by another plate X of a similar
shape, into which the centre of the headstock O works; the work and
cam being fixed on the same shaft both revolve together and the exact
shape of the cam is produced on the leather, the cam or copying plate 6
works against the roller n part of the headstock on the dotted bracket,
Figure 2, and shewn in full at e¹ and j, Figure 1.
i
It will be seen from Figure 1, Sheet 4, that the rocking frame is
placed between two pillars p, p', one holding the horizontal cutters and
the other the vertical cutters shewing the vertical cutter line 6. The
brackets for holding the spindle Q which works horizontally are similar
to those on the pillar p¹, but in a horizontal plane and the driving pulley
can be placed in any convenient position on the said shaft or spindle Q.
For this vertical cutter I sometimes use a circular saw, and when such
cutter is used the copying plate in the form of an enlarged boot heel is
used, the rocking frame is then made to slide in the V lips at its baṣe
by the aid of a screw not shown in the Drawing, and by this arrange-
ment the kind of heel shown in Figure 3, Sheet 4, can be produced. I.
also use a buffing wheel on the same horizontal shaft which will take

page_text: the shape of the enlarged heel shewn in section at n³, Figure 6. The
heels of boots and shoes can be shaped when on the boot or shoe as
well as when off it, suitable arrangements for space for the boot to turn
in being made in the rocking frame..
Figures 7 and 8 represent in section and in plan one of the two
metal plates used in my improved manufacture of boot and shoe heels,
and shew the recesses cut into them in the form of curved lines corre-
sponding with the upper surfaces of the heels, and which are intended
to hold the split lifts forming the hollow of the boot or shoe heel.
Figure 9 shews in section a succession of layers of leather cemented
together which have been subjected to pressure between the metal plates
showing the hollowed form of the upper surfaces of the heels. The
oblique vertical lines shew the direction in which the saw or cutter
must be passed through the layer in separating the heels from each
other.
The apparatus for lasting or blocking to the last the upper leathers of
boots and shoes is represented by the Figures 6 and 7 on Sheet 2;
Figure 6, Sheet 2, is a plan showing the last L resting on the pillars.
which are hidden by it, and Figure 7, Sheet 2, is a side elevation shewing
the last L resting on the pillars P, P¹; m, m, m, are the levers supported
by their pillars n, n, and pressing upon the heel and toe of the last to
keep the leather in position; & is a spiral spring or elastic band which
keeps the lever tightly pressed upon the last; is the joint at the foot
of the pillar n which enables the pillar with its lever to be turned back
out of the way of the operator when he puts on or takes off the last.
and o is a roller which presses on a spring q and thus keeps the pillar in
a vertical position.
Having thus particularly described and ascertained the nature of my
Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I would
have it understood that I do not claim as any part of the Invention
secured to me by the herein-before in part recited Letters Patent a
serrated or fine cut spur wheel working vertically for the purpose of
moving forward the material to be operated upon and having a groove
or channel cut in the periphery thereof, into which groove or channel
the wire or pegs to be inserted in the material to be operated upon
pass in the process of being inserted in the said material, nor do I claim
any equivalent for the said last-mentioned wheel, but I do claim,-

page_text: Firstly. The wheel described and shown at 6', Figure 1, Sheet 1,
working horizontally with flanges upon it for the purpose of moving the
leather onward during the process of inserting the rivets therein and of
preventing the leather from being moved upward or downward by the
action of the machine.
Secondly. The mode or method herein-before described of driving by
machinery wire pins or rivets into leather.
Thirdly. The improvements in the machinery herein-before described
and illustrated in Figure 1, Sheet 1, and Figure 4, Sheet 2, of the
Drawings hereunto annexed whereby I am enabled to perform the work
above in my second claim set forth.
Fourthly. The improvements in machinery herein-before described and
illustrated in Figures 5, 6, and 7 of Sheet 1, and Figures 1, 2, and 3 of
Sheet 3 of the Drawings hereunto annexed for the manufacture of mill
bands and hose pipes.
Fifthly. The mode or method herein-before described of manufacturing
the heels of boots and shoes.
$
Sixthly. The apparatus herein-before described and illustrated on
Sheet 4 of the Drawings hereunto annexed for the manufacture of the
heels of boots and shoes.
Seventhly. The apparatus herein-before described and illustrated by
Figures 6 and 7 of Sheet 2 of the Drawings hereunto annexed for lasting
or blocking to the last the upper leathers of boots and shoes.
In witness whereof, I, the said Thomas White, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Nineteenth day of April, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-one.