Improvements in Jewelry.
Year: 1895

page_text: Date of Application, 22nd Jan., 1895-Accepted, 23rd Feb., 1895
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Jewelry.
I, EMIL SCHILL, of, No. 58 Warwick Street, Newark, County of Essex, and
State of New Jersey, United States of America, Jeweller, do hereby declare the
nature of my invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be:
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
My invention has reference to a novel form of setting for clusters used in rings,.
scarf-pins, and other jewelry in general, but the invention also has reference to a
new method of securing precious stones in the settings of jewelry of the various.
kinds.
The invention therefore consists in the novel form of setting for rings and
other like jewelry, and further, in the novel arrangements and combinations of
parts to be hereinafter fully described and finally embodied in the clauses of the
claim.
As will be hereinafter understood, my present invention is applicable to all
classes of cluster ornamentation or settings for diamonds, pearls, and other precious.
stones; and is furthermore, applicable to all kinds of metals and is not limited.to.
any particular design or designs, nor to any particular shape or outline.
The invention is illustrated in the accompanying sheet of drawings, in which :-.
Figure 1 is a side elevation and Figure 2 a top view of a finger-ring, provided.
with a setting of pearls, embodying the principles of my invention.
Figure 3 is a vertical section of the ring, taken on line . x in Figure 2, and
Figure 4 is a similar view, taken on line y. y in said Figure 2.
Figure 5 is a perspective view of one of a number of small rings to be soldered
to the top of the box or bezel of the ring, Figure 5A is a plan view of the box or
bezel of the ring, showing an arrangement of depressions therein, illustrating the
appearance of the same, before the rings, shown in Figure 5, are secured in position
between the depressions.
Figures 6 and 7 are a front view and a side view respectively, of a stick or scarf
pin, provided with a setting embodying the principles of my invention.
Figure 8 is a side view of a ring, in which the upper surface of the bezel is
perfectly smooth, but is provided with rings thereon, between which the stones or
pearls are arranged and held, and Figure 9 is a vertical cross section, taken on
finezz in said Figure 8.
Similar letters of reference are employed in each of the above described views,.
to indicate corresponding parts.
In said views, a represents the bezel or top box of the piece of jewelry, to which.
is secured the shank 6 of a ring, as indicated in Figures 1, 2, 3, 8 and 9, or a pin c,.
as illustrated in Figures 6 and 7.
The bezel or top box a may be of any desirable shape or configuration in outline,.
and, as will be seen more especially from an inspection of Figures 4 and 5^, in
the upper surface of said bezel are formed, in any convenient manner, certain
depressions a' forming cups or bowls for the reception of the stones or pearls.
Upon the raised portion a² between two consecutive depressions a¹ is arranged, in.
a vertical position, a ring d, made of wire, as shown in Figure 5.
Said rings are secured to the bezel in any convenient manner,
fast thereto, as will be understood.
but may
be soldered
When all the rings d are fastened to the bezel, one ring between two consecutive
depressions a' in the bezel, then the stones or pearls e are forced between the rings,.
which act as clamps to securely and permanently hold the stones in place in the
cup-shaped depressions in the upper surface of the bezel a, as will be clearly
evident from Figures 1, 2, 6 and 7.
.

page_text: In Figures 8 and 9, the depressions a' in the upper surface of the bezel a are
dispensed with, said surface being perfectly smooth, as a³, see Figure 9, to which
the rings d are fastened or soldered to form clamps, between which the stones are
sprung and securely held therein by the spring-like action of said rings d.
This construction and arrangement of the several parts is especially adapted for
use when it is desired to employ stones having a flat surface e¹, or, when half-pearls
are used, the flat part of the stones or pearls resting on the smooth surface a³ of
the bezel, as clearly shown in said Figure 9.
The centre portion of said upper surface of the bezel a may be provided with
suitable cramps a' formed thereon in the usual manner, for holding and securing in
position any other larger and precious stone e³, as will be understood.
Owing to the fact that the precious stones or pearls are sprung between two of
the vertically arranged rings d, the inner surfaces d' of which come in holding
contact with the edges of the stone or pearl and thereby hold the same in place,
the stones or pearls can be very closely arranged, thereby producing a very fine
cluster.
Furthermore, there are no sharp ends, as in the old style of cramps, which are
apt to catch in the clothing of a person and .become bent and causing the loss of
perhaps a very valuable stone or pearl.
It will be understood that this method of making settings for clusters for jewelry
is not limited to any particular kind or character of metal, and is applicable to any
shape or form of rings, pins, or any classes of jewelry in general.
By the novel arrangement and combinations of the parts, comprised in the inven-
tion herein described, the parts can be quickly put together to produce a setting
for the piece of jewelry and the precious stones or pearls can be readily and
securely forced into position, at a less expense to the manufacturer, being a great
saving in time and labour.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. The combination, with the bezel of a piece of jewelry, of rings on said bezel,
between which the precious stones or pearls are forced and held, substantially as
and for the purposes set forth.
2. The combination, with a bezel of a piece of jewelry, and cup-shaped
depressions of said bezel, of rings on said bezel, one ring between two consecutive
depressions, and between which rings the precious stones or pearls are forced and
held, substantially as and for the purposes set forth.
3. The herein described setting for precious stones or pearls, comprising therein,
a bezel a having depressions a', and rings between two consecutively placed
depressions, between which rings the precious stones or pearls are forced and held,
substantially as and for the purposes set forth.
4. The method herein described of producing a setting for precious stones or
pearls, consisting in first, forming a bezel, and then soldering rings d on said bezel,
between which the precious stones or pearls are forced, substantially as and for the
purposes set forth.
5. The method herein described of producing a setting for precious stones or
pearls, consisting in first, forming a bezel, a, producing cup-shaped depressions a
therein, and soldering rings on said bezel between said depressions, substantially
as and for the purposes set forth.
Dated this 19th day of December 1801
Haseltine, Lake & Co.,
EMIL SCHILL.
45, Southampton Buildings, London, W.C., Agents for the Applicant.