Year: 1887

page_text: Date of Application, 10th Feb., 1887
Complete Left, 10th Oct., 1887
Complete Accepted, 10th Feb., 1888
JOHN CUTLAN 56 Sydner Road Stoke Newington London Machinist do hereby
declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
The Machine being made with an Iron Stand the working parts or head is bolted
on same and is driven by Steam or foot power For Stitching the Soles of Boots and
Shoes a curved needle is used the eye of the needle being made through the side of the
curve of needle by so doing it makes a square stitch on the fair side just as hand work
The pulling in of the stitch is done by means of a wheel worked by a cam the thread running
through the centre or hub of wheel and passing round the edge of same in a groove it
pulls the stitch tighter with less friction on the thread. The wheel is kept warm so to
use hard wax. The Boot or Shoe is rested on pillars and can be moved according to
length of stitch to accommodate the stitching light or heavy work. The Presser foot for
holding down the work is made with a slot through the foot or bar and an excentric or
key passes through the slot and turned by cam movement and locks the same on each
side and holds the work firm until the stitch is pulled in. A guide is made to work on
the sides of needle and points fitting in the grooves of same keeping the needle from
springing whilst passing through the leather. An arrangement is made for taking the
thread under the shuttle by means of a finger worked by a cam movement just as the
point of shuttle has entered the loop the finger takes the loop carries the thread under
the shuttle and holds it until the shuttle passes through, by so doing a much larger
shuttle can be used and shorter needle.
I claim
1st. For stitching the Soles of Boots and Shoes a curved needle the eye being made

page_text: 2nd. A wheel for pulling in.the.stitch the thread passing through the centre of same
and around the edge in a groove..
3rd. Two Pillars for resting. the work on movable to accommodate the length of
stitch required.
4th. The making a presser foot or bar for holding down the work with a slot, an
excentric or key passing through the same being locked on each side by a cam
movement.
5th. A Guide to work on each side of needle points working in the grooves of same
keeping the needle from springing whilst passing through the leather.
.
6th. A Finger so arranged that when the shuttle just enters the loop the finger
takes the thread under the shuttle and holds it until the shuttle passes through.
Dated this 10th day of February 1887.

page_text: JOHN CUTLAN 56 Sydner Road Stoke Newington London N. Machinist do hereby
declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed,
to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
My Invention consists of a Lock Stitch Fair Stitch Machine for Stitching the Soles
of Boots and Shoes. The Machine being made with an Iron frame as shown by letter W.
The parts being driven by Fly wheel and cam movement as shown by I, O, S,
and V. The shuttle is worked on a circular movement as shown by letter G driven
by a connecting rod L worked by cam I the guide piece J over main shaft H and
roller K. A curved needle is used as shown by letter A The eye of needle being
made through the side of curve thereby making a square stitch on the fair side of
work like made by hand. The needle lever N being driven by cam O with roller M.
The stitch is pulled in by wheel B and worked as shown by lever U and roller T
working in cam V the thread entering the centre of wheel B passes through the edge
working in the groove of the same pulling in the stitch tighter with less friction on the
thread. The wheel B being made warm keeps the wax soft whilst sewing. The boot
or shoe is rested on pillars as shown by letters C. They can be moved farther or
brought closer by means of a slot and set screw as shown by X and Y being a great
advantage for light or heavy work. The presser-foot for holding the work whilst
being sewn the making the same with a slot through the centre of bar and a locking
motion being worked by lever and cam as shown by letters D locks the foot firmly
whilst the stitch is being pulled in. The guide E working on the sides of needle and
with point fitting in the groove of needle holding the needle firmly to prevent it from
springing whilst going through the leather thereby doing a greater variety of work
and better. The finger F is worked by connecting rod R with guide piece P over
main shaft H roller working in cam S. Just as the shuttle enters the loop the
finger F takes the loop or thread carrys it under the shuttle holds it in place until the
shuttle passes through the loop so that a much larger shuttle can be used and shorter
needle.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said Inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is:
1. A curved needle with the eye at the side of curve as shown by letter A.

page_text: 3. The resting of Boot or Shoe on pillars whilst being sewn as shown hy
letters C, X and Y.
4. The presser-foot being made with a slat and a box or lanking motion thenuch the
3. The resting of Boot or Shoe on pillars whilst being sewn as shown by
letters C, X and Y.
4. The presser-foot being made with a slat and a boy or looking motion through the
same as shown by letters D.
K
3. The resting of Boot or Shoe on pillars whilst being sewn as shown by
letters C, X and Y.
4. The presser-foot being made with a slot and a boy or looking motion through the
same as shown by letters D.
5. A guide working on the sides of needle as shown by letter E.
6. A finger carrying the loop or thread below the shuttle as shown by letter F.