Im- PROVED SEWING MACHINERY APPLICABLE FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF STRAW HATS AND BONNETS AND FOR OTHER PURPOSES.
Year: 1875

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Clark, of 53, Chancery Lane, in the
County of Middlesex, Patent Agent, for the Invention of “Im-
PROVED SEWING MACHINERY APPLICABLE FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF STRAW
HATS AND BONNETS AND FOR OTHER PURPOSES.". -A communication from
Ti Incent of Damic France
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Clark at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
6th February 1875.
I, WILLIAM CLARK, of 53, Chancery Lane, in the County of
Middlesex, Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature of the said
Invention for "IMPROVED SEWING MACHINERY APPLICABLE FOR THE MANU-
FACTURE OF STRAW HATS AND BONNETS, AND FOR OTHER PURPOSES, to be as
follows:
1
This Invention relates to a single thread lock-stitch sewing machine
producing stitches at certain intervals suitable for the manufacture of
-hats, bonnets, and other articles of straw plait, and other purposes.

page_text: The improvements in the machine consists more particularly in the
employment,-
1st. Of a single thread wound on a spool and carried by a shuttle in
which the spool is contained.
2ndly. Of a needle provided with two hooks formed by an opening at
one side of the eye, the needle having also a long groove both at
front and back, while the needle carrier guides are made adjustable, so
that the needles may be adjusted to work in a vertical or an inclined
direction."
3rdly. Of a finger or device consisting of a single or double hooked
piece for carrying the thread across the path of the needle hook.
4thly. Of a single or double feed motion consisting of one or of two
feed wheels actuated by differential pawls or by friction gear, and
capable of producing successively long and short stitches of the desired
size on the upper and under side of the work respectively, the said feed
motion admitting of giving the most various forms or shapes to the
work. In the case of the single feed motion the feed wheel is placed
preferably in rear of the needle, and in the double feed motion a feed
wheel is placed both in front and in rear of the needle.
5thly. Of a tension device which guides the thread in accordance with
the motion of the needle.
6thly. Of adjustable work guides, whereby to regulate the extent to
which the parts sewn together overlap one another, and thereby vary
the form of the work to be produced, which may be effected either auto-
matically by the machine or by hand, or preferably by the foot, by
means of one or more pedals provided for the purpose. The whole of
these devices and motions are combined and actuated so as to operate
the single thread and the work in such manner as to produce small
lock stitches at certain distances apart and barely visible on the right
side of the work, and long stitches visible only on the wrong side.
As useful accessories for facilitating and ensuring the perfect action
of the machine I provide,―
1st. A device for curving the straw plait to facilitate the formation
of the hat or bonnet, and consisting preferably of a pair of slightly

page_text: conical discs pressed together by springs and rotated when required
either automatically by the machine or preferably by hand.
2ndly. A universal guide or kind of automatic pantograph, whereby
the stitching may be effected according to predetermined patterns.
In Figures 1, 2, 3, and 4, of the accompanying Drawings A is the
base plate, and B, the fixed arm of the machine; C is the cam shaft
hung in bearings D, D', and driven either from a pedal or other motor,
or both simultaneously, through band or friction pulleys P; E, needle
carrier guides fixed adjustably to arm B by means of screw Z in order
that the direction of the needlo carrier may be slightly modified; F,
needle carrier provided at its lower part with a socket a to receive the
needle, and a set screw to hold it at the desired height. It also has
another socket fitted to turn and held in position by a screw d; e is an
elastic washer interposed between the washers a and c; f is a milled
nut uniting the two sockets a and c. The socket being made large
enough inside to admit of a certain amount of play of the socket a to
allow of the latter being slightly shifted in position before the nut is
finally tightened up. This arrangement of the needle carrier admits of
adjusting the needle in every direction; G is a stem forked at one end,
which embraces and is jointed to the needle carrier, the said stem being
fitted to slide in a socket in the end of the needle arm H. This arm H
is actuated by a cam I, and it is so mounted as to be capable of working
together with the needle carrier and the needle in an inclined instead
of a vertical plane; J, Figure 3, is the needle, having two hooks and two
grooves, as shown. When fixed in the machine the hooks are turned
towards the opposite side to that, at which the shuttle enters the loop;
B*, needle plate; K shows the finger or device for hooking the thread
on to the needle. It consists of two arms partly received in the small
feed wheel, which is hollowed out for the purpose, thereby allowing the
latter to occupy a position in the axis of the machine and close to the
needle;
L, lever by which the said finger is actuated operated by a
double cam M; N, shuttle, as shown in Figure 7; this shuttle has only
one hole g for the passage of the thread, the necessary tension being
obtained by its passage beneath a spring regulated by a set screw i,
which may be adjusted without removing the shuttle. The shuttle is
closed and contains a thread wound on a spool or in the form of a ball,
or otherwise; 9, g', is a groove on the upper side of the shuttle to guide

page_text: the thread; O, shuttle carrier provided with spring arms to facilitate, the
passage of the shuttle through the loop, and hinged at to enable the
shuttle to be readily put in and taken out. To this shuttle guide may
be fixed in rear of the shuttle a light guide to maintain the thread in the
proper position to be carried by the finger on to the needle. P, pinion
fixed on the tubular axis of the shuttle carrier; Q, lever provided with
a friction roller and operated by a cam R, said lever oscillating on a
pivot m and provided with a toothed sector, by which motion is imparted
to pinion P; S, guard plate fixed to the shuttle carrier and serving to
assist in the formation of the loop and to prevent the needle being struck
by the point of the shuttle; T, large feed wheel, which also serves as a
cover to enclose the mechanism, and by removing which the parts may be
readily inspected; U, shaft of feed wheel T supported in a frame V mounted
to oscillate on centres, whereby to regulate the height of the feed wheel
according to the thickness of the work by means of the screw o; W,
wheel fixed on shaft U, by which the large feed wheel is turned; X,
small feed wheel. This feed wheel placed in the axis of the machine
might be placed on one side thereof, so as to drag instead of pushing the
work, which would be preferable for fine plaits; Y, shaft of small feed
wheel carried in a support Z, the position of said wheel being adjusted
vertically by a set screw n; p, ratchet by which small feed wheel is
operated loose on the shaft U, motion being transmitted to shaft Y by
gearing, as shown; q, oscillating levers slotted to receive slides jointed
to connecting rods, by which they are connected to the differential pawls
of ratchets W and p; r, cam wheel by which the feed wheels are operated.
It has two cam portions, one for the long stitch, and one for the short
stitch; 8, lever by which motion is transmitted from cam wheel to
lever q. In this arrangement of feed the length of the stitches is regu-
lated by turning the milled nuts t, and thereby shifting the joints of the
connecting rods, whereby the speed of the two feed wheels may be varied
independently of one another. The variation of the long stitches might
be effected by a slotted lever, and of the small stitches by shifting the
cam wheel, whose smaller cam surface would for this purpose be of
variable height. Or a separate fixed or movable cam might be employed
for each kind of stitch. If only one feed wheel be employed it is a
preferably placed in rear of the needle in order that it may act on the
unsewn part of the plait or work. In this case the larger feed wheel
is dispensed with and replaced by a hinged cover; u, tension device
provided with spring arms capable of being regulated in every direction.
.

page_text: by means of screws v; w, x, y, combination of cams, levers, and springs,
by which motion is imparted to the tension device u.
*
Referring to Figures 4, 5, 6, a* is a spring presser foot of the large
feed wheel, the said presser foot serving also to guide the needle and the
thread by means of the needle hole made through it, the said hole being
entire. This presser foot is attached to a stem * sliding up and down in a
sheath c and pressed upon by a spring, and capable of being raised from
the work by the eccentric lever d*. The whole is fixed to the frame e, but
it might be horizontal like the small presser foot and fixed to the bed of
the machine. e* is a plate fixed to the bed of the machine and carrying
the work guides. f*, spring presser of the small feed wheel, and serving
also as a guide for the straw plait. g* is a thumb lever guided by the
curved and slotted arm h, whereby the longitudinal position of the
presser and consequently the extent to which the plaits overlap one
another, and therefore the form of the work may be varied without
stopping the machine. *, fixed or movable guide for the plait to be
stitched. *, guide serving to retain the work already stitched; k*,
conical spring attached at its base to the nut *, by which the action of the
spring is regulated, and at its other end to the axis m*, so as to apply
thereto, and consequently to presser f*, a longitudinal pressure, and at
same time sufficient pressure in the circular direction to press the plait to
be stitched down upon the small feed wheel. n*, milled nut by which
the position of f* is adjusted in order to give the smallest amount of
overlap to the plaits required. o*, support in which the small presser
foot is mounted. The pressers a*, f*, and the holding guide j* should
be roughened so as to bring and retain the work beneath the needle.
In Figures 8 and 9, p* is a part of the bed plate in front of the needle
to which the universal guide is attached. q*,support fixed beneath p*
, lever of the universal guide mounted on centres 8* and held in the
various positions by the roller running on the curved guide rail t*; u*,
spiral cam groove or pattern guide representing the form to be pro-
duced. *, guide rollers fixed at any desired position, according to the
width of the plaits and the extent to which they are to overlap one
another in a slot inclined towards the needle. *, frame in which
the spiral cam u* is mounted, said frame is fitted to slide in a slot in
lever, so as to be adjusted correspondingly with roller v. y*, discs
having a central pin between which the commencement of the work is
clamped, the said discs, which are mounted in extensions of levers >*,

page_text: being free to turn on their axis and carrying round with them the work
as the stitching proceeds. The continually varying angular motion of
the work is transmitted by means of chain wheels 2* to the cam *,
which as it rotates is caused to shift its position as well as that of the
lever and the clamp y* and consequently that of the work according
to the configuration of the cam or pattern to be reproduced.
Ex,
disc
Referring to Figure 10, A* is the frame of the apparatus or device for
curving the straw plait pivoted in a clamp B* so as to be free to be
inclined as desired. C*, disc fixed on spindle D* by nut F*. This disc
may be faced with india-rubber, felt, or other substance.
turning loose in a socket at the lower part of frame A* and carried
round by the square part of spindle Dx. This disc may also be faced
like disc E* if required. G*, hand wheel by which the discs are rotated;
this hand wheel may be replaced by a band, pulley, or other gearing
driven by a suitable motor. II*, spring whose tension is regulated by
screw I*, by which a yielding pressure is imparted to the discs through
the medium of lever K*.
The whole of the mechanism carried by the bed plate A (Figures 1, 2,
and 4) may be turned up on a hinge on the line L*, L*, so as to be
readily examined and cleaned.
The action of the mechanism is as follows:-The straw plait (which I
have chosen by way of example) is preferably wound on a sort of reel
near the frame of the machine. The plait is prepared, ᎥᏝ necessary,
by the curving device above described, and led beneath the pressers,
and in contact with the guides beneath the needle. As soon as the
machine is set in motion the needle passes through the plait to receive
the thread brought through to it by the finger before described; the
needle then rises carrying with it the thread, doubled, to the upper
side of the work. The tension device presses the thread to the side
opposite to the opening in the needle, so that it cannot escape from the
needle when it descends. During the time that the needle is above the
work the feed takes place for the short stitch and immediately after-
wards the needle passes the doubled thread again through the work and
carries it down low enough to form a loop through which the shuttle
then passes, at same time disengaging the thread from the hook of
the needle, the latter then rises to the upper side of the work in order to
again pass down through it as soon as the shuttle has tightened the

page_text: stitch and let out enough thread required to form the long stitch on the
under side of the work, all of which takes place whilst the needle is
above the work.
By means of the needle above described I may, by means of a movable
guide acting beneath the work and answering the purpose both of the
finger and shuttle, employ a single thread wound on a bobbin and
placed in a cylinder whose axis is in the same line with that of the said
guide, or placed beneath or even above the bed if preferred.
To ensure the disengagement of the thread from the needle by the
shuttle or by the guide, I may fix beneath the shuttle, or on the shuttle
carrier, or on the guide a light spring; or I may make on the shuttle or
on the guide, one or more small notches to produce sufficient resistance
to the thread to ensure its being disengaged from the hooks of the needle
but without fraying it.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said William Clark in the Great Seal Patent Office on
the 5th August 1875.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, WILLIAM
CLARK, of 53, Chancery Lanc, in the County of Middlesex, Patent
Agent, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Sixth day of February, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and seventy-five, in the thirty-eighth year
of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant
unto me, the said William Clark, Her special licence that I, the said
William Clark, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others
as I, the said William Clark, my executors, administrators, and assigns,
should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and
at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and
lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United
Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle
of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVED SEWING MACHINERY APPLICABLE FOR
THE MANUFACTURE OF STRAW HATS AND BONNETS, AND FOR OTHER PURPOSES,"
a communication to me from abroad by Désiré Mathurin Legat, of
Paris, France, upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said

page_text: 5th. Of a tension device which guides the thread in accordance with
the motion of the needle.
6th. Of adjustable work guides whereby to regulate the extent to
which the parts sewn together overlap one another, and thereby vary
the form of the work to be produced, which may be effected either
automatically by the machine or by hand, or preferably by the foot by
means of one of more pedals provided for the purpose. The whole of
these devices and motions are combined and actuated so as to operate
the single thread and the work in such manner as to produce small lock
stitches at certain distances apart and barely visible on the right side of
the work, and long stitches visible only on the wrong side.
As useful accessories for facilitating and ensuring the perfect action of
the machine I provide,--
1st. A device for curving the straw plait to facilitate the formation of
the hat or bonnet, and consisting preferably of a pair of slightly conical.
discs pressed together by springs, and rotated when required either
automatically by the machine, or preferably by hand.
2nd. A universal guide or kind of automatic pantograph, whereby
the stitching may be effected according to predetermined patterns.
In Figures 1, 2, 3, and 4 of the accompanying Drawings A is the
base plate and B the fixed bracket arm of the machine; C is the cam
shaft hung in bearings D, D¹, and driven either from a treadle or other
motor or both simultaneously through band or friction pulleys P;
E, needle carrier guides fixed adjustably to arm B by means of screw Z
in order that the direction of the needle carrier may be slightly modified;
F, needle carrier provided at its lower part with a socket' a to receive
the needle, and a set screw 6 to hold it at the desired height. It also
has another socket fitted to turn, and held in position by a screw d;
e is an elastic washer interposed between the washers a and c; fis a
milled nut uniting the two sockets a and c, the socket f being made
large enough inside to admit of a certain amount of play of the socket a,
to allow of the latter being slightly shifted in position before the nut is
finally tightened up. This arrangement of the needle carrier admits of
adjusting the needle in every direction; G is a stem forked at one end
which embraces and is jointed to the needle carrier, the said stem being
fitted to slide in a socket in the end of the needle lever H. This lever H
is actuated by a cam I, and it is so mounted as to be capable of working

page_text: together with the needle carrier and the needle in an inclined instead of
a vertical plane. J, Figure 3, is the needle having two hooks and two
grooves, as shown. When fixed in the machine the hooks are turned
towards the opposite side to that at which the shuttle enters. the loop.
.B*, needle plate; K shows the finger or device for hooking the thread
on to the needle. It consists of two arms partly received in the small
feed wheel, which is hollowed out for the purpose, thereby allowing the
latter to occupy a position in the axis of the machine and close to the
needle. L, lever by which the said finger is actuated, operated by a
double cam M; N, shuttle. As shown in Figure 7 this shuttle has only
one hole g for the passage of the thread, the necessary tension being
obtained by its passage beneath a spring / regulated by a set screw i,
which may be adjusted without removing the shuttle. The shuttle is
closed and contains a thread wound on a spool or in the form of a ball
or otherwise. g, g', is a groove on the upper side of the shuttle to guide
the thread; O, shuttle carrier provided with spring arms to facilitate
the passage of the shuttle through the loop, and hinged at 7 to enable
the shuttle to be readily put in and taken out. To this shuttle guide
may be fixed in rear of the shuttle a light guide to maintain the thread
in the proper position to be carried by the finger on to the needle.
P, pinion fixed on the tubular axis of the shuttle carrier; Q, lever pro-
vided with a friction roller and operated by a cam R, said lever oscillating
on a pivot m, and provided with a toothed sector, by which motion is
imparted to pinion P; S, guard plate fixed to the shuttle carrier and
serving to assist in the formation of the loop and to prevent the needle
being struck by the point of the shuttle; T, large feed wheel, which
also serves as a cover to enclose the mechanism, and by removing which
the parts may be readily inspected; U, shaft of feed wheel T supported
in a frame V mounted to oscillate on centres whereby to regulate the
height of the feed wheel, according to the thickness of the work by
means of the screw o; W, wheel fixed on shaft U, by which the large
feed wheel is turned; X, small feed wheel. This feed wheel placed in
the axis of the machine might be placed on one side thereof so as to
drag instead of push the work, which would be preferable for fine plaits.
Y, shaft of small feed wheel carried in a support Z, the position of said
wheel being adjusted vertically by a set screw n; p, ratchet by which
small feed wheel is operated loose on the shaft U, motion being trans-
mitted to shaft Y by gearing, as shown; q, oscillating levers slotted to
receive slides jointed to connecting rods, by which they are connected

page_text: to the differential pawls of ratchets W and p; r, cam wheel by which
the feed wheels are operated. It has two cam surfaces, one for the long
stitch and one for the short stitch. 8, lever by which motion is trans-
mitted from cam wheel to lever q. In this arrangement of feed the
length of the stitches is regulated by turning the milled nuts t, and
thereby shifting the joints of the connecting rods, whereby the speed of
the two feed wheels may be varied independently of one another. The
variation of the long stitches might be effected by a slotted lever and of
the small stitches by shifting the cam wheel, whose smaller cam surface
would for this purposes be of variable height, or a separate fixed or
movable cam might be employed for each kind of stitch. If only one
feed wheel be employed it is preferably placed in rear of the needle in
order that it may act on the unsewn part of the plait or work. In this
case the large feed wheel is dispensed with and replaced by a hinged
cover. u, tension device provided with spring arms capable of being
regulated in every direction by means of screws v; w, x, y, combination
of cams, levers, and springs by which motion is imparted to the tension
device u.
Referring to Figures 4, 5, 6, a* is the spring presser foot of the large
feed wheel, the said presser foot serving also to guide the needle and the
thread by means of the needle hole made through it, the said hole being
entire, that is to say, without the usual slit or opening at one side.
This presser foot is attached to a stem 6*, sliding up and down in a
sheath c*, and pressed upon by a spring and capable of being raised from
the work by the eccentric lever d*. The whole is fixed to the frame E,
but it might be horizontal like the small presser foot, and fixed to the
bed of the machine. e* is a plate fixed to the bed of the machine, and
carrying the work guides. f*, spring presser of the small feed wheel,
and serving also as a guide for the straw plait. * is a thumb lever
guided by the curved and slotted arm h*, whereby the longitudinal
position of the presser f*, and consequently the extent to which the
plaits overlap one another, and therefore the form of the work may be
varied without stopping the machine. **, fixed or movable guide for
the plait to be stitched. *, guide serving to retain the work already
3 stitched. *, conical spring attached at its base to the nut 1*, by which
the action of the spring is regulated, and at its other end to the axis m*,
so as to apply thereto, and consequently to presser f*, a longitudinal
pressure, and at same time sufficient pressure in the circular direction

page_text: to press the plait to be stitched down upon the small feed wheel.
12*, milled nut by which tho position of f* is adjusted in order to give
the smallest amount of overlap to the plaits required. o*, support in
which the small presser foot is mounted. The pressers a*, fx, and the
holding guide j* should be roughened so as to bring and retain the work
beneath the needle.
In Figures 8 and 9, p* is a part of the bed plate in front of the needle,
to which the universal guide is attached. q*, support fixed beneath p*.
*, lever of the universal guide, mounted on centres 8*, and held in the
various positions by the roller running on the curved guide rail t*.
*, spiral cam groove or pattern guide representing the form to be pro-
duced. *, guide roller fixed at any desired position, according to the
width of the plaits and the extent to which they are to overlap one
another in a slot x*, inclined towards the needle. w*, frame in which
the spiral cam u* is mounted; said frame is fitted to slide in a slot
in lever, so as to be adjusted correspondingly with roller v*. y*, discs
having a central pin between which the commencement of the work is
clamped, the said discs, which are mounted in extensions of lever **,
being free to turn on their axis, and carrying round with them the work
as the stitching proceeds. The continually varying angular motion of
the work is transmitted by means of chain wheels zx to the cam u*,
which as it rotates is caused to shift its position as well as that of the
lever and the clamp y*, and consequently that of the work according
to the configuration of the cam or pattern to be reproduced.
Referring to Figure 10, A* is the frame of the apparatus or device for
curving the straw plait, pivoted in a clamp B* so as to be free to be
inclined as desired. C*, disc fixed on spindle D* by nut F*; this disc
may be faced with india-rubber, felt, or other substance. Ex, disc
turning loose in a socket at the lower part of frame A*, and carried
round by the squared part of spindle D*; this disc may also be faced like
disc C* if required. G*, hand wheel by which the discs are rotated; this
hand wheel may be replaced by a band, pulley, or other gearing driven
by a suitable motor. H*, spring whose tension is regulated by screw I*,
by which a yielding pressure is imparted to the discs through the
medium of lever K*.
The whole of the mechanism carried by the bed plate A (Figures 1,
2, and 4) may be turned upon a hinge on the line L*, L*, so as to be
readily examined and cleaned.

page_text: The action of the mechanism is as follows:-The straw plait (which I
have taken by way of example) is preferably wound on a sort of reel
near the frame of the machine. The plait is prepared if necessary by
the curving device above described, and led beneath the pressers and in
contact with the guides beneath the needle. As soon as the machine is
set in motion the needle passes through the plait to receive the thread
brought to it by the hooked finger before described; the needle then
rises, carrying with it the thread doubled to the upper side of the work.
The tension device presses the thread to the side opposite to the opening
in the needle, so that it cannot escape from the needle when it again
descends. During the time that the needle is above the work the feed
takes place for the short stitch, and immediately afterwards the needle
passes the doubled thread again through the work, and carries it down
low enough, and then rises slightly to form a loop, through which the
shuttle then passes, at same time disengaging the thread from the hook
of the needle. The latter then rises free to the upper side of the work
in readiness to repeat the operation as soon as the shuttle has tightened
the stitch just made, and let out enough thread to form the long stitch
on the under side of the work, all of which takes place whilst the needle
is above the work. The needle then descends again through the work
to engage with the thread as before, and so on, the stitches succeeding
one another with the greatest rapidity and regularity.
With this machine the hat is commenced at the crown, which is a
great advantage, as it enables the work to be readily guided as required,
without limit as to the size or shape of the hat or other article.
By means of the needle operating as above described I may, by means
of a movable guide acting beneath the work and answering the purpose
both of the finger and shuttle, employ a single thread wound on a
bobbin and placed in a cylinder whose axis is in the same line with that
of the said guide, or placed beneath or even above the table, if
preferred.
To ensure the disengagement of the thread from the needle by the
shuttle or by the guide I may fix beneath the shuttle or on the shuttle
carrier or on the guido one or more small notches to produce sufficient
resistance to the thread to ensure its being disengaged from the hooks of
the needle, but without fraying it.
As the appearance and quality of the sewing much depend on the

page_text: facility with which the stitches are drawn tight, and consequently on
the liberty afforded for the passage of the thread around the shuttle, it is
proposed to avoid all resistance to the passage of the shuttle through the
loop, more especially at the moment that the loop is cast off by the
shuttle, so as to avoid its retention by the latter, and thus to enable
the stitch to be readily drawn tight. This result, which is of great
importance for the better and more rapid working of the machine, is
obtained by means of an improved shuttle carrier provided with spring
arms which engage with the shuttle by means of small pins or studs
received in corresponding recesses in the shuttle, whence they are with-
drawn to give passage to the loop.
This arrangement will be readily understood with the aid of the
accompanying Drawing, Figure 11 of which shows a transverse section
taken on the line A, B, Figure 12, which is a face view of the same.
Figure 13 shows an end view of the shuttle carrier; and Figure 14, a
section of same taken on line C, D, Figure 12. E, shuttle carrier
attached by pin G to the shaft F; I, spring arms of horse-shoe form
screwed to the shuttle carrier, and provided with pins O at their outer
ends; N, shuttle carrier on the support X and spring V of the shuttle
carrier, and provided with two holes made slightly oval in the vertical
direction for the pins O; H, levers pivoted at J to the shuttle carrier,
and each provided with a friction roller K bearing against a fixed cam Q
whereby the spring blades I and pins O are forced back from the shuttle
through the agency of the levers H and adjustable screw studs P. The
levers H are continued on the other side of pivot J in the form of thumb-
pieces T, by pressing which the pins O are disengaged from the shuttle
to allow of the latter being withdrawn. This arrangement is indepen-
dent of the wear of the shuttle, and even admits of shuttles of different
sizes being used, the blades I being always maintained in contact with
the shuttle casing by means of the screw studs P. The needle guard
plate R is so disposed as to facilitate the formation of the loop, and also
to cover the point of the needle when the shank is uncovered at the
moment the point of the shuttle is passing. In addition to this it is also
preferable, more especially in the case of large needles, to bevel off the
left side at least of the groove in the front of the needle at the height of
the point of the shuttle in order to avoid any concussion on their
meeting. The shuttle may also for certain classes of threads be provided
with an appendage or tailpiece, forming a prolongation of the same, to

page_text: guide the, loop as long as possible before casting it off, and prevent it
twisting, so as to ensure the proper tightening of the stitch.
:
The whole of the above arrangement is enclosed in a cover W hinged
to permit of easy access to the parts. The needle plate k is secured by
screws and guide studs so as to form a continuation of the casing L.
The plate is also provided with a smooth slit b, through which the
thread is passed and presented to the hooked finger at starting.
For conveniently sewing flat surfaces, as is necessary for the crowns
and brims of certain kinds of hats, I dispose in front of the cast-iron
table (see Figure 15) and so as to form a continuation of the same, two
plates M, M¹, moving in slides Z, and capable of being held closed
together opposite the needle by means of stops n and a spring hook or
latch S-beneath the plate M. To facilitate the moving of the plates a
knob U is attached to plate M, and a knob V to the spring latch S of
plate M. The shaping of the article being sewn may be readily effected
by guiding the work upon the needle plate, which is exposed more or
less as required by an opening in the plates M, M¹.
In order to vary at will the form of the articles made of straw plait,
by making the latter overlap more or less, I employ a treadle motion for
operating the guide in such manner that it shall by preference act only
on the plait to be sewn, and cause it to pass more or less beneath that
which has been sewn, so as to always have the sewing at the same distanco
from the outer edge, and thus give the work a better appearance.
To more effectually feed and retain certain kinds of work beneath the
needle I further propose to employ besides the guides and pressers, if
necessary, a small pressing roller mounted by preference on a divided
presser foot as near as possible to the needle, and suitably inclined
according to the best direction to be given, to the work from which it
might receive its movement.
The straw plait is wound on a reel, which may be mounted, if desired,
on a separate frame. placed in proximity to the machine or otherwise,
said reel being provided with a brake by which the supply of plait
to the machine is regulated as the sewing progresses, the plait being
conducted towards the needle between rollers of rigid or clastic material
fixed on the same framing or upon the machine table.
To ensure the regular working of the machine the cams are secured
1

page_text: shaft for the purpose, whereby they are always maintained in the exact
position which they should occupy.
Having described the nature of the Invention, and the manner of
performing the same, I declare that what I claim as the Invention to be
protected by the herein-before in part recited Letters Patent is,―
'
1st. A sewing machine operating with a single thread, which is passed
through the work by a needle provided with two hooks, producing by the
aid of the mechanism described a lock stitch at certain regular intervals,
and whereby the most varied forms may be given to the work, all sub-
stantially as herein set forth.
2nd. The jointed needle having two hooks and a long groove both at
front and back, as described.
3rd. The arrangement of needle carrier for adjusting the needle to
work in any direction, substantially as specified.
4th. The arrangement of closed shuttle with brake spring and single
hole for the thread, the tension being regulated exteriorly, and without
removing the shuttle, substantially as set forth.
5th. The arrangement of shutter carrier, with hinged spring clips, as
described.
6th. The arrangement of finger or device for hooking the thread on to
the needle, substantially as described.
7th. The guard plate for the loop and needle, as described.
8th. The feed motion consisting of one or two feed wheels operated
as described by friction levers or differential pawls actuated by stationary
or movable cams, substantially as shown and described for producing
long and short stitches regulated as required.
9th. The tension device substantially as described, provided with
flexible arms capable of being regulated in every direction, and of
guiding the thread as required by the motion of the needle.
10th. The arrangements substantially as herein shown and described a
of pressers, stops, and universal and other guides for regulating the lap
and form to be given to the work, either by the hand or treadle motion
or by the machine itself.

page_text: 11th. The device or apparatus substantially as herein shown and
described for curving and preparing the straw plait.
12th. The application of the above machine, whether as a whole or in
part, or any modification of the same, for all kinds of sewing, but more
particularly for the manufacture of hats and bonnets of straw plait or
other material.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Clark, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Fifth day of August, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-five.
TIM
זATA