IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FANCY YARNS, AND IN THE APPARATUS EMPLOYED THEREIN
Year: 1885

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Apparatus Employed therein.
I, GUSTAVUS ADOLPHUS JOHN SCHOTT, Manufacturer, of West End Mills,
Richmond Road, Bradford, in the County of York do hereby declare the nature of
my invention for IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FANCY YARNS, AND
IN THE APPARATUS EMPLOYED THEREIN to be as follows:-
"
This invention relates more particularly to further improvements in the manu-
facture of fancy yarns for which Letters Patent dated the 18th Jan'y 1884 and
numbered 1702 were granted and has for its object to render the manufacture of
such fancy yarns more varied and adapted for a greater variety of different fabrics
than hitherto, thus considerably increasing their utility. For the sake of shortness
in the description of my said improvements I shall hereafter assume this present
specification to be read in conjunction with the specification of the above cited
Letters Patent N° 1702 and use the terms "groundthread" "combined yarn
topthread" "binding thread" and other corresponding terms in the same sense,
in which I have used these terms in the above cited specification of Letters Patent
and for the purpose of denoting corresponding parts in the two specifications.
The first of my present improvements consists in twisting the "groundthread"
with the "topthread in such a manner, that the latter does not assume the
appearence of several short threads forming clusters upon the "groundthread," but
that single. loops of the "topthread" are thrown up at intervals upon the ground-
thread, which owing to the hard twist of the "topthread" double up into short and
spirally twisted snarls or threads of yarn. Owing to what was in the specification
1702 described as a cluster of threads being in this manner reduced to a single
spirally twisted thread, the effect and the weight as well as the uneven thickness
of the combined yarn are reduced, which for many purposes is advantageous.
The "top-" and "groundthread's" are twisted together in an ordinary twisting
frame specially adapted for the purpose by passing each through separate delivery.
rollers, revolving continuously, but at different speeds, the "groundthread" being
delivered so much slower than the "topthread" and in such manner that the latter,
whilst being spirally twisted round or with the "groundthread" gains upon it and
at intervals this surplus length of "topthread" is thrown up in snarls or short
lengths of spirally twisted thread as before described. My second improvement
consists in producing another variation in the "combined yarn,” forming the

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subject matter of the spec 170281 but in a different direction from my first
improvement above described. For this purpose I employ for the "topthread" a
yarn which is not twisted specially hard for the purpose of running into snarls as
described in the specification 17028, but which is of an ordinary and softer twist,
in consequence of which it does not form clusters of short bristly threads upon the
'groundthread" but is instead wrapped round the "ground thread" at intervals in
loose open loops forming thereon at such intervals clusters or tufts of such loops
whilst the spaces or intervals between the clusters or tufts of open loops consist of
the "groundthread" and " topthread" spirally twisted together, and when this
combined yarn is woven or otherwise manufactured into textile fabrics, novel
effects are produced. The apparatus which I''employ in the manufacture of this
Fancy yarn is in its Main features the same as the Apparatus described in the
specification 170284, having intermittently rotating delivery rollers for the "ground-
thread" and continuously-rotating-delivery rollers for the "topthread." Either of
the "combined yarns" forming the subject matter of my present improvements
may be secured when desired with an additional "binding thread," either by a
second or separate twisting process or simultaneously and in combination with the
first twisting process.
Apparatus Employed therein.
I GUSTAVUS ADOLPHUS JOHN SCHOTT of West End Mills Richmond. Road
Bradford Yorkshire 'do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and'ascertained
in and by the following statement :—
This Invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of fancy yarns and
in the apparatus employed therein, and has for its object to increase the scope of
such manufacture by obtaining a great variety of novel effects therein which have
hitherto been impracticable-thus increasing the utility and value of this class of
yarns.
I would premise that on the 18th January 1884, Letters Patent N° 1702 were
granted to me for certain " Improvements in the manufacture of fancy yarns and
in the apparatus employed therein" and for the sake of brevity and perspicuity in
describing my present improvements I shall assume this Specification to be read in
conjunction with the Specification of the above cited Letters Patent and I shall
hereafter employ the terms "ground thread" "combined yarn
"
..
" "
top thread"

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binding thread" and other corresponding terms in a similar sense in which such
terms are therein employed-I shall also in referring to the drawings accompanying
this Specification use the same letters and figures of reference to denote corre-
sponding parts of the apparatus and yarn and I shall denote the various novel
features of my present improvements by figures commencing with the N° 100.
My present improved apparatus may be adapted to ordinary spinning or twisting
frames thus rendering them capable of producing the improved fancy twists
hereafter specified together with modifications thereof as hereinafter stated.
And in order that my said invention may be better understood and readily
carried into effect I will now with the aid of the accompanying drawings proceed
to particularly describe and ascertain the same.
Fig. 1 of such drawings shews a sectional end elevation of an ordinary woollen
ring twisting frame fitted with my improvements-b, b¹, are a pair of delivery.
rollers through which the "ground threads" (of which there are generally two)
pass and are thence guided over a movable guide rod (101) under a guide wire (102)
and over a perforated or notched guide plate (103) to a second pair of delivery.
rollers a, a, the latter of which is grooved as hereinafter described and projects
beyond the roller a.
"
are
I would here observe that for the sake of perspicuity the "ground threads
in the accompanying drawings marked (110) but I wish it to be understood that
Buch ".
ground threads" are not novel in themselves but only in their particular
arrangement as presently explained.
The guide plate is fitted to one end of a bracket (100) and is placed at a
convenient distance above the roller a¹ beyond which it projects sufficiently to
allow the ground threads to pass from the guide plate to the back of such roller in
an oblique direction thereby preventing such threads from slipping out of the
grooves formed on the roller.
The perforations or notches in the guide plate serve both to guide the "ground
threads" into such grooves and also to prevent their being gripped between the
rollers a, a The "top thread" is passed through a guide e and between the
rollers a a¹ at a point between the grooves formed on the roller a¹, and such "top
thread" is therefore acted upon and delivered by these rollers..
Figs. 2 and 3 of the accompanying drawings are detail views shewing the.
arrangement and working of the before mentioned movable guide rod, guide wire
and guide plate in conjunction with the top rollers a¹-Fig. 4 is a detail view of
one of such top rollers (in full size) shewing the grooves formed therein which
slope towards the centre ridge of the roller as indicated by the arrows.
These sloping grooves constitute an important improvement upon the circum-
ferentially grooved roller shewn in Fig. 3 of the drawings illustrating my said.
Specification N° 1702 inasmuch as owing to the laterally oblique direction in.
which the "ground threads" are thereby passed under the top rollers as shewn in
Fig. 2 such "ground threads" together with the loose hairs or fibres thereon are
much less liable to be caught between the plain surfaces of the top and bottom.
rollers and pulled out of the grooves thus deteriorating the yarn and increasing.
the cost of manufacture by wasting the material both which disadvantages
I effectually obviate.
:
The brackets (100) of which there are any convenient number carry the guide
rod (101) which corresponds in length with and runs parallel to the delivery.
rollers a and b-These brackets are mounted on the frame at convenient distances.
apart and each bracket has a neck (104) formed therein or thereon wherein the.
guide rod works The guide wire and guide plate are carried on suitable arms (105).
fixed to or formed on the guide rod-On the end of such guide rod is fixed a pair.
of slotted levers (106) Fig. 3, actuated by a revolving tappet (107) rotating in the
direction of the arrow and to which notion is imparted by the toothed gearing
(108) (109) the toothed wheel (109) being mounted on the end of the bottom roller,
as shewn in Fig. 3.--Such toothed gearing may be changed when desired so as to
obtain variations of speed.

page_text: The ground threads (110) pass between delivery rollers b, 6', and thence over the
guide plate obliquely (their approximate course of travel beneath the delivery
rollers a¹ being indicated in dotted lines) to a point in front of and just below the
point of contact of the top and bottom rollers where they meet together and
combine with the top thread issuing from the delivery rollers a, a'; and after being
all twisted together on their way to the spindle f are then wound in the ordinary
manner upon the bobbin g.
It will be understood that by the action of the revolving tappet upon the slotted
levers the guide rod is rotated a fractional part of à revolution either way that is
to say each nose or protuberance on the tappet will raise the slotted levers and
turn the guide rod and as the guide plate revolves round the guide rod in the arc
of a circle the radius of which is described by the arms (105) the guide plate will
also be raised in a corresponding degree to the height of the tappet nose e; while
whenever the guide plate and slotted levers encounter a depression on the
periphery of the tappet they will fall in a corresponding degree to the depth of
such depression.
The effect of this rising and falling motion of the guide plate upon the delivery
of the ground threads is that the rising motion has a tendency to retard or arrest
the delivery of the ground threads to the rollers a, a¹; whilst the falling motion has
a tendency to quicken such delivery.
Various modifications in the action of the different parts of the apparatus herein-
before described may be effected by one or more of the following methods thus
varying the yarns produced.
'
1ty By varying the speed or delivery of the rollers a or 6 or of both.
2ndly By changing the toothed gearing.
3rdly By the ordinary twist changes of the frame.
4thly By varying the size and shape of the revolving tappet.
5th By varying the position of the slotted levers so as to increase or decrease
the length of leverage.
6thly By varying the horizontal position of the arms (105) in either direction.
The resulting yaros may likewise be varied by changing either the materials
used or the counts, colors, twists and other details thereof and in this manner a
great number of new varieties of fancy twists can be obtained which on being
worked into textile fabrics will produce entirely novel effects.
My present improved apparatus may also be used with advantage for producing
known varieties of fancy twists as for example the yarn forming the subject matter
of the hereinbefore mentioned Letters Patent N° 1702" which may be produced
by using such apparatus in the following manner--)
-Both sets of delivery rollers are
so speeded that in a given time the rollers a, a, deliver a length of the top thread
sufficiently in excess of the length of the ground thread or ground threads delivered
by the rollers 6 b¹ to provide for the formation of the clusters of snarls or curls which
will be formed while the guide plate is rising under the action of the revolving
tappet upon the slotted levers. The tappet must however be of such a form and
the actuating gear-and also the slotted levers themselves, must be so arranged that
the rising of the guide plate by correspondingly increasing the distance which the
ground thread or ground threads has or have to traverse between the rollers b, b1;
and a, a, arrests the delivery of such ground thread or ground threads to the
rollers a, al; that is to say that during the raising of the guide plate, the portion
of the ground thread between such guide plate and the bobbing remains stationary
except in so far as that portion thereof which is between the rollers a, a¹ and the
ring of the bobbin g is revolving or rotated by the action of the spindle ƒ Mean-
while the top thread continues to be delivered by the rollers a, a¹ in the ordinary
manner and meeting the ground thread or threads on issuing from the rollers a, u³,
it is wrapped round the stationary ground threads and forms thereon the tufts or
clusters of snarls or curls in the manner described in the Specification of my said
Letters Patent N° 1702"-When however the guide plate is falling the ground
thread is delivered to the rollers a, a¹ and issuing from them at the same or nearly

page_text: the same speed as the top thread they are twisted together spirally in their
progress towards the spindle thus forming the portions of the combined twist
which are situated between the before mentioned tufts or clusters.
The delivery of the ground threads to the rollers a, al may be effected in such a
manner as not to arrest but only to retard such delivery to any desired degree-
This may be effected either by accelerating the delivery of the rollers b, b, or by
diminishing the lift of the guide plate (103)-The effect produced by such a change
in the resulting compound yarn is that instead of short spot-like tufts being formed
upon the ground threads by the top thread as described and shewn in Fig. 1 of
the Drawings illustrating the Specification of Letters Patent No 1702% the same
are more or less elongated as shewn in Fig. 5 of the drawings accompanying this
Specification.
Another specific variation in the "combined yarn". obtained is produced by
employing for the "top thread" a naturally stiff or artificially stiffened yarn which
is not twisted specially hard for the purpose of running into curls or snarls as
described in the Specification of Letters Patent N° 17024 but which is of an
ordinary and softer twist in consequence of which it does not form clusters of short
bristly threads upon the ground thread but is instead wrapped round such ground
thread at intervals in loose open loops forming thereon at such intervals clusters or
tufts which are either short and spot-like or elongated into stripes whilst the
spaces or intervals between such tufts consist of the ground thread and top thread
spirally twisted together-Figs. 6 and 7 of the accompanying drawings are
illustrations of this effect in which a stiff and long fibred material such as mohair
or worsted of a low quality has been employed for the "top thread" in order to
produce large and elastic loops as circular as possible in form which stand out
boldly and are not easily crushed down which is of importance for many purposes.
Fig. 8 of the accompanying drawings illustrate's another specific improvement
upon the "combined yarn" forming part of the subject matter of the Specification
of Letters Patent N° 170284 - Such improved combined yarn is available for
numerous purposes and the improvement consists in twisting the "ground thread"
with the top thread" in such a manner that the latter does not assume the
appearance of several short threads forming clusters upon the "ground thread" but
that single loops of the "top thread" are thrown up at considerable intervals say
from half an inch to an inch or more if desired upon the ground thread which
owing to the hard twist of the "top thread" double up into short and spirally
twisted snarls or threads of yarn-Owing to what was in the Specification of
Letters Patent N° 170284 described as a cluster of threads being in this manner
reduced to a single spirally twisted thread the effect and the weight as well as the
uneven thickness of the combined yarn are reduced which for many purposes is
advantageous This effect is obtained by raising the guide plate by means of a
tappet of suitable shape quickly at intervals in such a manner that the delivery of
the ground thread or threads to the delivery rollers a, a' is only momentarily
stopped or retarded so as to allow time for the delivery by the rollers a, a¹ of a
length of top thread sufficient for forming the single loop or snarl desired to be.
produced after which the ground threads and top thread proceed to form the space
by being spirally twisted together until the ground threads are again stopped or
retarded by the lifting of the guide plate for the formation of the next loop or
snarl and so on until the operation is finished.
"
For some purposes the guide plate may be stationary thus allowing of the slotted
levers revolving tappet and toothed gearing used for actuating such plate and
likewise the bracket guide rod, guide wire, and carrying arms hereinbefore
described being dispensed with-In lieu of such bracket, guide rod, guide wire, and
carrying arms suitable arms or brackets or their equivalents may be mounted on
the frame in any convenient position to support the guide plate and the latter may
5 be screwed or otherwise fastened to such arms or brackets care being taken to
retain the guide plate and the top rollers in their relative position to each other
as herein before described-In order to render this modification of my invention

page_text: perfectly clear I will mention one instance wherein the guide plate may be
stationary (that is to say) the yarn illustrated at Fig. 8 of the accompanying
drawings may be produced without stopping or retarding the ground thread if a
comparatively thick top thread of a stiff long fibred material such as mohair or
worsted of a low quality is used and in that case the guide plate may be stationary
although used for guiding the ground threads to the delivery rollers a, a¹ as before
described the rollers b, b', being arranged to deliver the ground thread slower than
the rollers a, a deliver the top thread and both deliveries being so regulated as to
ensure a sufficient surplus delivery of the top thread to form the loops or snarls.
Any or all of the combined yarns above described may be secured when desired
with an additional binding thread in the well known manner.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is
1° Forming slanting grooves upon the rollers a¹ substantially in the manner and
for the purposes hereinbefore specified and shewn.
2° Fitting a spinning or twisting frame with my improved apparatus con-
structed, combined, arranged and fitted substantially in the manner and for the
purposes herein before specified and shewn.
3° Producing a modified action of the various parts of such apparatus when so
fitted in the manner and for the purposes hereinbefore specified.
4° As a modification of such apparatus fitting the same to a spinning or twisting
frame in such a manner as to make the guide plate stationary substantially in the
manner and for the purposes herein before specified.
.
5° The production and manufacture of the yarns hereinbefore particularly
specified and shewn at Figures 6, 7 and 8 of the accompanying drawings sub-
stantially as hereinbefore described and shewn.