New or Improved Manufacture of Embroidery.
Year: 1890

page_text: Complete specification Lent, 2010 Mar 10
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
New or Improved Manufacture of Embroidery.
I, ALFRED MEYER-KREIS of St. Gallen, Switzerland, do hereby declare the
nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to a new embroidered article having a new or improved
relief-like effect upon the face of the fabric produced, by applying to the back
thereof, series of particular stitches such as have not heretofore been applied for
producing embroidery effects, and which in the German language are called
"Sprengstiche" but are hereinafter called "leap-stitches." These leap_stitches
applied according to my invention are also drawn in a peculiar manner and after a
certain scheme.
Heretofore single leap-stitches only have been used for uniting the single figures
and motives of the design these stitches constituting mere isolated leap-stitches.
According to my invention I arrange the leap-stitches in a mass and in a peculiar
manner, so as to obtain an effect similar to but more striking than that obtained by
the use of underlay stitches.
Whilst, hitherto, for the production of relief-work on the fabric it has been neces-
sary previous to applying the loom-stitches to make a basis of underlay stitches on
the face of the fabric, and to overstitch these underlay stitches by loom stitches, I now
obtain considerably stronger and rounder relievos by applying simultaneously with
the loom stitches on the face, a whole system of leap-stitches on the back and by
making these leap-stitches, including the parts of the fabric situated immediately
before the same emerge from or project beyond the face of the adjacent parts of
the fabric by means of back stitches the use of which by themselves is well
known.
With all known forms of loom stitches, the stitches have hitherto been
embroidered in regular or usual order such as they are arranged on the pattern,
that is to say, from the first stitch to the last stitch of every branch, cordon, or
rosette, without intentional overleaping of stitches.
My new or improved product is obtained by a new method the description of
which may serve to characterize the former.
Instead of attaining, as hitherto, only one object with one and the same stitch,
that is to say, to make a loom stitch on the face of the fabric, I embroider the
stitches according to this invention, in such a way, that one and the same stitch
attains two quite different objects; it co-operates in performing the loom stitch on
the face of the fabric, and at the same time it serves to form a stitch, as long as
possible on the back of the fabric in order to have as much yarn as possible laid on
this side of the fabric.
Instead of drawing respectively the stitches of one and the same figure (or a
portion thereof) in the usual order as heretofore practised, I adopt a different order
that is to say, I make respectively one stitch of a loom-stitch-figure or of a cordon
and so on, and then I proceed to make a stitch at a distance therefrom in the same
part of the figure, or according to the design of the pattern it may be to a figure

page_text: at a distance. The object underlying this method is to obtain by means of leap
stitches, the greatest possible accumulation of yarn on the back of the fabric.
On the face of the fabric are the loom stitches contained in the pattern, whilst
at the back thereof is a considerable accumulation of yarn due to the leap stitches
which causes the respective effect of the pattern to stand out, as soon as care is
taken that this accumulation of yarn arises or projects from the plane of the fabric.
This effect is obtained by the so called back stitches lying behind the accumulation
of yarn and designed to be stitched across the latter. The back stitches thus
applied produce a considerable prominence of the fabric, which prominence is (on
its face) wholly or partly overstitched and allows relievo-figures to be worked upon,
which until now could not be performed by the. embroidering machine and which
render it possible, to produce a swelling out or prominence of the fabric.or of the
loom stitch itself in such a manner as to give the article a new appearance, as if
this new article which somewhat resembles lace-work were the result of a new
machine, for instance a combination of lace-work and embroidery.
The said special swelling out or prominence of the parts of the plain fabric as well
as of the loom stitch figures being due to the new method, will yield an embroidery
of particularly striking appearance, and the parts being in exceedingly strong relief
will cause every flower or contour to look much more plastic than heretofore and
will allow of the production of embroidering of the kind mentioned of greatly varied
and novel kinds of patterns.
In order to better illustrate the nature of this invention reference is made to the
annexed drawing which shows the manner of arranging the stitches and in which
Fig. 1 illustrates by shading the manner in which the embroidery is in relief in
the centre of the design, that is to say stands out from the cloth foundation.
Fig. 2 illustrates the formation of the leap stitches next to the fabric.
Fig. 3 shows the method by which cross leap stitches produce a thicker supply
of yarn in the centre.
Fig. 4 shows the mode of application of the back stitches ("Hinterzugstiche").
The odd numerals Figs. 2, 3 and 4 indicate the respective points where the needle
has to come out, whilst the even numerals indicate the points to which it has to
return.
Commencing for instance at the left Fig. 2 with the third stitch I embroider the
same in the manner represented by Fig. 2, that is to say, beginning with the third
stitch series (1,2; 2, 3; 3, 4; 4, 5; etc.) of every cordon along the whole length
of the design (1-12). Having arrived at the end of the third series (see stitch 12),
I make the following (fourth) stitch series (12, 13; 13, 14; 14, 15; 15, 16; etc.)
in the same manner backwardly (13-20 and so on), proceeding in this reciprocating
stitching way until the third outermost stitch series on the other side of the cordon
is reached and made in the same manner. According as the design may require it,
I may also begin with a stitch other than the third, this latter being mentioned only
by way of example. The stitches on the back are also leap stitches and especially
approximately parallel leap stitches.
then embroider the inner of the outermost two stitches (which have been
omitted as yet), as shown in Fig. 3, (1-24). Special care must here be taken also
to obtain as long stitches as possible on the back of the fabric, so as to have plenty of
yarn. laid on, which serves to enhance the relief-like effect of the fabric or embroidery.
The many crossings require and facilitate the formation of the relief mass in the
centre. According to the curvature of the design, one, two or more cordons may
be overleapt respectively, and if required, the operation may even be proceeded
with irregularly for it is necessary that the stitches situated on the back of the
fabric should cross one another as much as possible in the centre of the design.
After these stitches have been thus formed along the entire length of the design,
the outermost stitches are to be made in the same manner as the inner ones. The
stitches on the back are now the cross leap stitches.
The new embroidered article may also consist of cross leap stitches only, or of
parallel leap stitches only instead of parallel or similar leap stitches and cross leap

page_text: stitches, but both methods combined form in most cases the more efficient mode of
production.
When all the stitches have been made the whole must be back-stitched again as
shown in Figure 4 (1-38). These back-stitches must be embroidered tight, so as
to cause the greatest possible prominence or relief of the fabric, or of the embroidery
respectively. When there is a hole ("Hohl" or "Höhl") or beading, ("Staffel")
its underlay-stitches may be embroidered by proceeding from one side to the other,
and by stitching as shown in Figure 3, so as to make long back-stitches here also ;
whereupon the back-stitches will here be hooked into the hole threads or beading
legs.
Dated this 26th day of June 1800
ALFRED MEYER-KREIS.
By L. W., per F. B.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
New or Improved Manufacture of Embroidery.
I, ALFRED MEYER-KREIS, of St. Gallen, Switzerland, do hereby declare the
nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This invention relates to a new embroidered article having a new or improved
relief-like effect upon the face of the fabric, produced by applying to the back
thereof, series of particular stitches such as have not heretofore been applied for
producing embroidery effects, and which in the German language are called
Sprengstitche" but are hereinafter called "leap-stitches." These leap-stitches,
applied according to my invention, are drawn or made in a peculiar manner and
after a certain scheme, as hereinafter described.
66
Heretofore single leap-stitches only have been used for uniting the single
figures of the design, these stitches constituting mere isolated leap-stitches.
According to my invention I arrange the leap-stitches in a mass and in a peculiar
manner, so as to obtain an effect similar to, but more striking than that obtained
by the use of underlay stitches.
Whilst, hitherto, for the production of relief-work on fabric, it has been
necessary, previous to applying the loom stitches ("Blattstiche "), to make a basis
of underlay stitches on the face of the fabric, and to overstitch these underlay
stitches by loom stitches, now obtain considerably stronger and rounder relievos
by applying simultaneously with the loom stitches on the face, a whole system of
leap-stitches on the back, and by making these leap-stitches, including the parts
of the fabric situated immediately in front of the same, emerge from, or project
beyond the face of the adjacent parts of the fabric by means of back stitches, the
use of which by themselves, is well known.
With all known forms of loom stitches, the stitches have hitherto been
embroidered in regular or usual order such as they are arranged on the pattern,
that is to say, from the first stitch to the last stitch of every branch, cordon, or
rosette, without intentional overleaping of stitches.
My new or improved product is obtained by a new method the description of
which will serve to characterize the former.
Instead of attaining, as hitherto, only one object with one and the same stitch,
that is to say, to make a loom stitch on the face of the fabric, I embroider the
stitches according to this invention in such a way, that one and the same stitch
attains two different objects; it co-operates in performing the loom stitch on the
face of the fabric, and at the same time it serves to form a stitch, as long as
possible on the back of the fabric in order to have as much yarn as possible laid
on this side of the fabric.
Instead of drawing or making the stitches of one and the same figure (or a
portion thereof) in the usual order as heretofore practised, I adopt a different

page_text: order that is to say, I make respectively one stitch of a loom-stitch-figure or of a
cordon and so on, and then I proceed to make a stitch at a distance therefrom in
the same part of the figure, or according to the design of the pattern, it may be
to a figure at a distance. The object underlying this method is to obtain by means
of leap-stitches, the greatest possible accumulation of yarn on the back of the
fabric.
On the face of the fabric are the loom stitches contained in the pattern, whilst
at the back thereof is a considerable accumulation of yarn due to the leap-stitches,
which causes the respective effect of the pattern to stand out, as soon as care is
taken that this accumulation of yarn arises or projects from the plane of the
fabric. This effect is obtained by the so called back stitches lying behind the
accumulation of yarn, and designed to be stitched across the latter. The back
stitches thus applied, produce a considerable prominence of the fabric, which
prominence is (on its face) wholly or partly overstitched and allows relievo-figures
to be worked upon it, which until now could not be performed by the embroidering
machine, and which render it possible, to produce a swelling out or prominence of
the fabric, or of the loom stitch itself, in such a manner as to give the article a
new appearance, and as if this new article, which somewhat resembles lace-work,
were the result of a new machine, for instance one producing a combination of
lace-work and embroidery.
The said special swelling out or prominence of the parts of the plain fabric, as
well as of the loom stitch figures, being due to the new method, will yield an
embroidery having a particularly striking appearance, and the parts being in
exceedingly strong relief, will cause every flower or contour to look much more
prominent and plastic than heretofore, and will allow of the production of embroidery
of the kind mentioned, of greatly varied and novel kinds of patterns.
In order to better illustrate the nature of this invention reference is made to
the drawing left with my Provisional Specification which shows the manner of
arranging the stitches.
In this drawing,
Fig. 1 illustrates by shading the manner in which the embroidery is in relief in
the centre of the design that is to say stands out from the cloth foundation.
Fig. 2 illustrates the formation of the leap-stitches next to the fabric.
Fig. 3 shows the method by which cross leap-stitches produce a thicker supply
of yarn in the centre.
Fig. 4 shows the mode of application of the back-stitches ("Hinterzugstiche ").
The odd numerals Figs. 2, 3 and 4 indicate the respective points where the needle
has to come out, whilst the even numerals indicate the points to which it has to
return.
Commencing for instance at the left Fig. 2 with the third stitch, I embroider
the same in the manner represented by Fig. 2, that is to say, beginning with the
third stitch series (1, 2; 2, 3; 3, 4; 4, 5; etc.) of every cordon along the whole
length of the design (1-12). Having arrived at the end of the third series (see
stitch 12) I make the following (fourth) stitch series (12, 13; 13, 14; 14, 15;
15, 16 etc.) in the same manner backwardly (13-20 and so on), proceeding in this
reciprocating stitching way until the third outermost stitch series on the other side
of the "cordon is reached and made in the same manner. According as the
design may require it, I may also begin with a stitch other than the third, this
latter being mentioned only by way of example. The stitches on the back are
also leap-stitches, and especially approximately parallel leap-stitches.
"
I then embroider the inner of the two outermost stitches (which have been
omitted as yet), as shown in Fig. 3, (1--24). Special care must here be taken also
to obtain as long stitches as possible on the back of the fabric, so as to have
plenty of yarn laid on, which serves to enhance the relief-like effect of the fabric
or embroidery. The many crossings require and facilitate the formation of the
relief mass in the centre. According to the curvature of the design, one, two or
more cordons may be overleapt respectively, and if required, the operation may

page_text: even be proceeded with irregularly for it is necessary that the stitches situated on
the back of the fabric should cross one another as much as possible in the centre
of the design.
The
After these stitches have been thus formed along the entire length of the design,
the outermost stitches are to be made in the same manner as the inner ones.
stitches on the back are now the cross-leap-stitches.
The new embroidered article may also consist of cross-leap-stitches only, or of
parallel leap-stitches only, instead of parallel or similar leap-stitches and cross-
leap-stitches, but both methods combined form in most cases the more efficient mode
of production.
When all the stitches have been made, the whole must be back-stitched again as
shown in Figure 4 (1-38). These back stitches must be embroidered tight, so as
to cause the greatest possible prominence or relief of the fabric, or of the
embroidery respectively. When there is a hole ("Hohl" or "Höhl ") or beading
("Staffel"), its underlay-stitches may be embroidered by proceeding from one
side to the other, and by stitching as shown in Figure 3, so as to make long back-
stitches here also; in this case the back-stitches will pass out from the threads of
the hole.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed 1 declare that what I
claim is:-
1. The manufacture of the new or improved relief-like embroidery consisting of
the combination of loom stitches on the face or front side of the fabric alternating
with a supply of so called leap-stitches lying on the back of the fabric, these latter
stitches being overstitched at the back by ordinary so-called back stitches so that
the parts of the fabric immediately.in front of the leap-stitches and bearing the
loom stitches, are caused to project beyond the adjacent flat parts of the fabric and
appear in prominent relief on the face or front side thereof as set forth.
2. In embroidery of the kind referred to in Claim 1, the double layer of parallel
leap-stitches and of cross-leap-stitches on the back of the fabric as set forth.
Dated this 23rd day of March 1891.
ALFRED MEYER-KREIS.
By L. W., per F. B.