A NEW SORT OF MANUFACTURE OF STOCKINGS, GLOVES, MITS, SOCKS, CAPS, COATS, WAIST- COATS, BRECHES, AND OTHER ARTICLES OF CLOATHING AND LININGS OF CLOATHING, AND OTHER THINGS WHERE WARMTH IS REQUIRED, AND ALSO OF BLANKETS, CARPETS, AND TAPESTRY, AND IN IMITATION AND TO ANSWER THE PURPOSES OF FURS AND SKINS OF VARIOUS KINDS, A THING NEVER BEFORE PUT IN PRACTICE, AND WHICH WOULD BE OF GREAT PUBLIC BENEFIT AND UTILITY
Year: 1790

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, GEORGE
HOLLAND, of the Parish of St. Andrew, Holborn above the Bars, in the County.
of Middlesex, Framework Knitter, sends greeting.
WHEREAS His present Majesty King George the Third, by Letters
Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date at Westminster,
the Twentieth day of March, in the thirtieth year of His reign, after
reciting that the said George Holland had, by his Petition, humbly represented
that he had, by great study and application, invented and found out "A NEW
SORT OF MANUFACTURE OF STOCKINGS, GLOVES, MITS, SOCKS, CAPS, COATS, WAIST-
COATS, BRECHES, AND OTHER ARTICLES OF CLOATHING AND LININGS OF CLOATHING,
AND OTHER THINGS WHERE WARMTH IS REQUIRED, AND ALSO OF BLANKETS,
CARPETS, AND TAPESTRY, AND IN IMITATION AND TO ANSWER THE PURPOSES OF
FURS AND SKINS OF VARIOUS KINDS, A THING NEVER BEFORE PUT IN PRACTICE,
AND WHICH WOULD BE OF GREAT PUBLIC BENEFIT AND UTILITY," did, for Himself,
His heirs and successors, give and grant unto the said George Holland, his
exccutors, adiñiors, and assigns, His especial license, full power, sole privilege
and authority, that he, the said George Holland, his executors, adminis-
trators, and assigns, and every of them, by himself and themselves, or by his
and their deputy and deputies, servants or agents, or such others as he, the
said George Holland, his executors, admors, or assigns, should at any time
agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter

page_text: during the term of years therein expressed, should and lawfully might make,
use, exercise, and vend his said Invention within that part of His Kingdom
of Great Britain called England, the Dominion of Wales, and Town of
Berwick-upon-Tweed, in such manner as to him, the said George Holland,
his exccutors, adñiors, and assigns, or any of them, should in his or their
discretions seem meet; and that he, the said George Holland, his executors,
adiors, and assigns, should and lawfully might have and enjoy the whole
profit, benefit, commodity, and advantage from time to time coming, growing,
accruing, and arising by reason of the said Invention, for and during the term
of years therein mentioned; to have, hold, exercise and enjoy the said license,
powers, privileges, and advantages therein granted or mentioned to be granted
unto the said George Holland, his exors, adiiors, and assigns, for and during
and unto the full end and term of fourteen years from the date of the said
Letters Patent next and immediately ensuing, and fully to be complete and
ended, according to the Statute in such cases made and provided; and it is
by the said Letters Patent (among other things) provided, that if the said
George Holland should not particularly describe and ascertain the nature of
his said Invention, and in what manner the samo is to be performed, by an
instrument in writing under his hand and scal, and cause the same to be
inrolled in the High Court of Chancery within one calendar month next and
immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent, that then the said
Letters Patent, and all liberties and advantages whatsoever thereby granted,
should utterly cease, determine, and become void, anything therein-before
contained to the contrary thereof in anywise notwithstanding, as by the said
Letters Patent may appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that the said Georgo Holland doth, by this present
Instrument in writing, under his hand and seal, by him duly executed, and
intended to bo inrolled as aforesaid, testify, declare, and describe the nature
of his Iuvention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be as
follows (that is to say) :-
In making the Manufacture with Raw Materials alone, which is to bo
performed on the common Stocking Frame, or any other Frame upon a similar
Principle. For clothing and coverings manufactured with wool alone, tuko
a handful of wool prepared by carding, combing, or otherwise, as hercin-after
is mentioned, and having the frame on or over the arch, sink the jack sinkers;
then hang wool upon the needles by repeatedly striking a handful of it
among them, till a sufficient quantity for one course is hung upon the needles
of one regular thickness; then sink the lead sinkers upon the wool; then being
the frame forward to the heads of the needles, and divide the wool for the

page_text: loop by striking or by drawing the sinkers hard against it; then throw up the
frame, and pull it on or over the arch; then sink the jack sinkers, and hang
another course of wool upon the needles, sink the lead siukers, and bring the
frame forward to the heads of the needles, and divide the wool as before
directed; throw up the frame press, and bring the first course over the heads
of the needles, and pull the frame on or over the arch, and proceed with tho
next course as before directed. The wool is divided for the loop to a certain
length at the heads of the needles, by having stops or stays fixed to prevent
the frame coming further forward than is necessary to make the loop of the
length required.
Another Method of making Clothing and Coverings upon the Stocking Framo
with Wool alone:-Having the frame on or over the arch, sink the jack sinkers,
and hang half the thickness of wool required for the intended course upon
the needles, as before directed; then sink the lead sinkers upon the wool, and
bring the frame forward to the heads of the needles, and divide the wool for
the loop; then shove the frame back on the arch, leaving the wool thus
divided at the heads of the needles; then sink the jack sinkers, and hang on
the remainder of the wool to complete the course of the thickness required,
shoving back the first half of the course along with it at the same time against
the sinkers; then sink the lead sinkers, and bring the frame forward, and
divide the wool at the heads of the needles; then throw up the frame, and draw
it on over the arch; then sink the jack sinkers, and hang on half the thickness
of wool sufficient for another course, sink the lead sinkers upon it, and pull
the frame forward to the heads of the needles, and divide the wool for the
loop; then shove the frame back on the arch, leaving the wool thus divided
at the heads of the needles; then hang on the remainder of the wool to
complete the course of the required thickness, shoving back the first half
course along with it, at the same time, against the sinkers; then sink the
lead sinkers, and bring the frame forward, and divide the wool at the heads.
of the needles; then throw up the frame press, and bring the first course
over the heads of the needles, and proceed as before; by these methods not
only sheep's wool, but also cotton wool, silk wool, flax, hemp, hair, fur, and
other raw and unspun materials are worked. Wool alone may likewise be
worked thus:-Draw the frame over the arch, then hang the wool upon the
needles under the ribs of the sinkers, draw the jack sinkers upon the wool,
sink the lead sinkers, and divide, bring the frame forkward to the heads of the
needles, and finish the course in the same manner as in working spun mate-
rials. The stops or stays alluded to above, which prevent the frame from
coming further forward than is necessary, to form the loop at the heads of the

page_text: frame is prevented from coming too forward when the wool is brought to the
heads of the needles, and according as No. 2 is placed forward or backward.
the loops at the needle heads will be either larger or shorter. These stops
meet when the frame is in the samic position as when the caster backs meet,
but operate differently by being a full stop. Whereas the caster backs by
mecting in a sloping position would not form a regular loop, it is necessary.
to have two similar pieces of iron fixed on the left-hand side of the frame, in
a similar manner, to act when these act.
In making the Manufacture with Courses of Wool or other Raw Materials,
and Courses of Spun Materials alternately:-Work one or more course or
courses of wool in the methods above described, and one or more course or
courses of spun materials in the method of making common hosiery, alternately.
In Making the manufacture of Spun Materials interlined with Wool, so as
to leave the Hosiery Elastic-Having worked one or more courses in the
common way of making hosiery, and having laid the thread for another crown,;
and drawn the jacks upon it, then sink the lead sinkers, and take a handful of
wool, and strike it repeatedly among the needles till a proper quantity is
regularly hung upon them for one course; then bring the frame forward to,

page_text: the heads of the needles, and divide the wool with the sinkers; then throw up.
the frame; press and bring the work forward over the beards and heads of the
needles, which finished the course. For the purpose of sinking the frame, and
keeping it sunk while the wool is laid or hung upon the needles, a sinking
traddle is made use of, with a cord fixed at one end to the sinking traddle,
and at the other end to the cross bar. Another method is as follows:-Having
in the manner above described laid the thread of spun materials, and drawn
the jack sinkers upon it, hang the wool on the needles, and sink the lead
sinkers upon it, and divide the thread of spun materials and the wool under
the sinkers at the same time; then bring the frame forward to the heads
of the needles, and throw it up; then press and bring the wool forward
over the beards and heads of the needles, which. finishes the course. By
these two methods the wool or other unspun materials are formed into a loop
along with the spun materials, and the wool or other unspun materials may
be worked in with every course, or with every second, third, or more courses.
In making the Manufacture Doubly Interlined, that is, Interlined with
Spun Materials, to which is fixed Wool or other Raw or Unspun Materials:-
Having begun the work in the common way of making hosiery upon the stocking
frame, and having worked one or more course or courses, pull the frame on,
or over the arch; then sink the jack and lead sinkers, and taking a handful
of wool, hang a proper quantity of it for one course upon the needles by
striking it repeatedly among them; then bring the frame forward, and divide
the wool of the heads of the needles; then throw up the frame, and draw it
on over the arch, and lay the thread for the interlining upon the needles, and.
draw the jacks and sink the sinkers upon it, and bring the interlining of spun
materials forward to the heads of the needles; then throw up the frame,
leaving the interlining at the heads of the needles; press and bring the wool,.
and work forward upon the beards of the needles; then shove the work back
upon the stems of the needles, leaving the wool upon the beards of the needles;
then bring the work forward under the beards of the needles to the heads of
the needles, which will shove the wool upon the interlining of spun materials;
then draw the frame on or over the arch, and lay a thread of
spun materials.
upon the needles, and draw the jacks and sink the sinkers upon it, and bring.
it forward to the heads of the needles; then throw up the frame; press and.
bring the work and the interlining over the heads of the needles, which finishes;
the course. The interlining of spun materials with wool fixed to it may be
worked in with every course, or with every second, third, or more courses.
This kind of work may also be made more quickly by means of a Derby:
rib machine, with points fixed in the leads instead of needles, thus: Work
one or more plain courses; then put the machine points between the needles,.

page_text: pall the frame over the arch, and hang wool on the needles, the machine
points being between the wool and the work; then throw the frame off the
arch, and bring it and the work forward to the heads of the needles, and pull
it over the arch; then lay the thread on the needles for the interlining, and
draw the jacks; sink and bring forward to the needle heads, throw up the
frame press, and with the machine points bring the wool forward over the
beards and heads of the needles upon the interlining of spun materials; then
sink the points down from between the needles, bring the work forward under
the beards of the needles unto the heads of the needles; then pull your
franie over the arch, and proceed as before directed. The interlining
may be worked in with every course, or every two or more courses. This
work may be done with a point to every needle, or to every two or more.
needles.
To make the Manufacture of Spun Materials coated on the Outside with
Wool or other Unspun Materials:-Ilaving a machine such as is used in
making twilled hosiery, take the work off the needles with it; then hang wool or
other unspun materials upon the needles, and divide it with the sinkers; then
put the work off the machine upon the stems of the needles, and draw the frame
on or over the arch; then lay a thread of spun materials, and draw the jacks
upon it, and finish the course in the common way of making hosiery.
In the Preparation of Wool and other Raw and Uuspun Materials for Lining
or Coating Hosiery:-For blankets, carpets, and all articles that require a thick
lining, sheep's wool is prepared by the mmon way of combing wool; but
for stockings and other articles that require only a thin lining it may be
prepared by that or any other way, at pleasure. If the staple or length of
wool be about two inches, it is prepared by carding; but if the wool be of
a longer staple it is first of all combed in the common method of combing
wool, and then cut with shears or any other instrument into any lengths from
ono to two inches, more or less, according as it may be wanted for thinner or
thicker lined work. After the wool is cut to the length required, it is earded,
and is then in a proper state for being worked. Long wool may be used for
thin lined work, but short wool leaves it more elastic. Cotton wool or raw
cotton is prepared by the usual mode of carding, and the machine cards used
at cotton mills prepare it better than hand cards. Vigonia wool, furr hair,
and down, and such like materials, are prepared by carding or by bowing in
the manner that hat makers prepare furr and other materials for making hats.
Flax, hemp, silk, wool, or raw or waste silk, mohair, and other kinds of hair,
are prepared by carding or combing according as the staple is long or or short..
. The Methods of Working or Hanging Wool upon the Needles of the
Frame for the Purposes before mentioned or directed are as follows:-Take

page_text: in your hand near the end as many slivers of combed wool as you can conve-
niently hold, and strike the wool among the needles, shoving it back at the
same time to the sinkers, and drawing the hand downward till the wool on the
necelles is separated from the slivers held in hand; then raise the hand, and strike
or shove the wool back among the needles as before till there is the requisite
quantity of wool hung upon the needles that may be sufficient for one coursc.
For work that does not require the wool to be laid on the whole length of the
staple, the wool must be struck and shoved back among the needles as before
described, and the hand drawn down a little, but not so far as to separate
the wool on the needles from that in the hand; then raising the hand, strike
and shove the wool back among the needles again. In this method much of
tho wool is doubled, and goes twice over the needles or oftener. Repeat this
operation till the quantity of wool requisite for one course is regularly hung
upon the needles. By the above method hair and other long materials are
worked.
The Method of Working Short Carded Wool upon the Stocking Frame is as
follows:-Take broard cardings, and roll them up to a size convenient to hold
in the hand, and begin the work by striking the wool among the needles
near the end of the roll, shoving it back near to the sinkers; then draw
down the hand till the wool on the needles is separated from the wool in the
hand, or nearly so; repeat this operation till the requisite quantity of wool
is regularly hung upon the needles to the width required. Wool may be
more expeditiously hung upon the needles if, instead of holding the wool in
the hand, it be held between two laths or rulers of wood, tin, or other light
materials. To work the wool in this way spread it to the width required of
a convenient thickness for the kind of work to be made, and having introduced
the wool between the laths or rulers, fasten them at each end, and holding
them by their two ends strike the wool among the needles as before described,
pressing the rulers towards each other between the thumbs and fingers,
drawing down the hand, and leaving a proper quantity of wool hung upon
the needles.
In witness whereof, the said George Holland hath hereunto set and put
his hand and seal, this Nineteenth day of April, in the year of our
Lord Christ One thousand seven hundred and ninety.
5
Sealed and delivered in the presence
of us,
GEORGE (L.S.) HOLLAND.
W. LAWSON.
JOHN TUBB.

page_text: AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the Nineteenth day of April, in
the year of our Lord 1790, the aforesaid George Holland came before our
said Lord the King in His Chancery, and acknowledged the Specification
aforesaid, and all and every thing therein contained and specified, in form
above written. And also the Specification aforesaid was stampt according to
the tenor of the Statutes made for that purpose.
Inrolled the Nineteenth day of April, in the year of our Lord One
thousand seven hundred and ninety.