IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF WARP FABRICS
Year: 1856

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Clarke, of Nottingham, Manufacturer, for
the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF WARP FABRICS."
Sealed the 19th August 1856, and dated the 21st February 1856.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Clarke at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
21st February 1856.
I, WILLIAM CLARKE, of Nottingham, Manufacturer, do hereby declare the
nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF WARP
FARRICS," to be as follows:-
The improvements relate to the production of a novel description of com-
pound fabric, with regular ribs or wales or weals longitudinally on one surface
thereof, similar to those produced in the stocking frame, and also to those
produced by warp machinery in the fabric called "taffeta" or "tafita," and the
other surface of a different character, suitable to be raised into a pile or fleece,
or which in the weaving may have a pile produced thereto by the peculiar
operation of two bars or sets of threads, one for the face & the other for
the back of the fabric.
Heretofore, when producing in warp machinery compound fabric suitable
for warm gloves and other articles with one surface or face of a close character,
having regular ribs or wales or weals in the direction of the length thereor
i

page_text: (such as above referred to), and the other surface suitable to be raised into a
pile or fleece, or otherwise of a different character from the face, it has, to
the best of my belief, always been found necessary to use 3 bars or sets of
threads, two to produce such face, and one the fleecy or other back.
A fabric has also been produced with a surface suitable to form a pile or
fleece, or otherwise to be of a character different from the body thereof, by the
use of only two guide bars or sets of threads, but the body to which has been
of a zigzag, & mostly of a loose character, without regular defined ribs or
wales or weals running parallel to the length thereof, but such fabric has been
produced by the single-lap and press principle, & suitable only as a lining to
other fabrics.
In producing compound fabric according to my improvements by the use of
only two bars or sets of threads, I substitute for the ordinary single lap to each
course or successive set of loops a double lap of the face surface set of threads
over or around the needles to form each course or successive set of loops, by
which I obtain every facility for tieing in the other set of threads forming the
other surface of the fabric, as well as an appearance to the face surface of the
fabric, similar to that produced in the manufacture of a single fabric by
the finer class of stocking frames, and similar also in effect to the warp fabric
made with two sets of guides or threads for the face surface, and a third bar or
set of threads for the production of the back or fleecy portion of the same, as
above referred to.
When carrying out these improvements, if it be desired. to produce a pile
to one surface of the fabric, this may be done, as is well understood, in the
weaving, or it may be obtained by afterwards teazleing or otherwise operating
upon the threads introduced for that purpose.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters. Patent,
filed, by the said William, Clarke in the Great Seal Patent Office, on the
21st August 1856.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, WILLIAM
CLARKE, of Nottingham, Manufacturer, send greeting...
WHEREAS Hér most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria; by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-first day of February, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight" hundred and fifty-six, in the nineteenth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors; give and grant, unto me,
the said William Clarke, Her special licénce that I, the said. William Clarke,

page_text: my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said William
Clarke, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during
the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel
Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE
OP WARP FABRICS," upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said
William Clarke, my executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing
under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe
and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same
was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent
Office within six calendar months. next and immediately after the date of the
said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said William Clarke, do hereby declare the
nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement thereof, that is to say:-
The improvements relate to the production of a novel description of com-
pound fabric, with regular ribs or weils longitudinally on one surface thereof,
similar to those produced in the stocking frame, and also to those produced by
warp machinery in the fabric called "taffeta" or "tafita," and the other surface
of a different character, suitable to be raised into a pile or fleece, or which in
the weaving may have a pile produced thereto by the peculiar operation of
two bars or sets of threads, one for the face and the other for the back of the
fabric.
Heretofore, when producing in warp machinery compound fabric suitable
for warm gloves and other articles with one surface or face of a close character,
having regular ribs or wales or weils in the direction of the length thereof
(such as above referred to), and the other surface suitable to be raised into a
pile or fleece, or otherwise, of a different character from the face, it has, to
the best of my belief, always been found necessary to use three bars or sets of
threads, two to produce such face, and one the fleecy or other back.
A fabric has also been produced with a surface suitable to form a pile or
fleece, or otherwise to be of a character different from the body thereof, by the
use of only two guide bars or sets of threads, but the body to which has been
of a zigzag, and mostly of a loose character, without regular defined ribs
or wales or weils running parallel to the length thereof. Such fabric has,
however, been produced by the single lap and press principle, and suitable only
as a lining to other fabrics.

page_text: In producing compound fabric according to my improvements by the use of
only two bars or sets of threads, I substitute for the ordinary single lap to each
course or successive set loops, a double lap of the face surface set of threads
over or around the needles to form each course or successive set of loops, by
which I obtain every facility for tieing in the other set of threads forming the 5
other surface of the fabric, as well as an appearance to the face surface of
the fabric similar to that produced in the manufacture of a single fabric by
the finer class of stocking frames, and similar also in effect to the warp fabric
made with two sets of guides or threads for the face surface, and a third bar
or set of threads for the production of the back or fleecy portion of the same, as
above referred to.
When carrying out these improvements, if it be desired to produce a pile to
one surface of the fabric, this may be done, as is well understood, in the
weaving, or it may be obtained by afterwards teazleing or otherwise operating
upon the threads introduced for that purpose.
Having thus stated the nature of my said Invention, I will now proceed to
describe the manner in which I carry the same into effect.
I use an ordinary warp machine with a double lap set of motions, or what
are commonly called by warp hands a set of blond motions, and which consist
of two laps to one pressing motion, but in operating to effect my improvement,
I in most cases bring both the laps of the face surface set of threads under the
beards of the needles, although this is not indispensibly necessary to produce
the compound fabric according to my Invention.
I will now describe the peculiar operation or motions of the two guide bars
or sets of threads. The top bar or set of threads I employ for the purpose of
forming the pile or fleecy portion called the back of the fabric, & the bottom
bar or set of threads I employ to form the face or "taffeta" portion of the
fabric. To give transverse motion to these two guide bars or sets of threads,
I, by preference, employ a pair of wheels (although motion may be given to
them by a cylinder, or a jacquard, or chain, or by other means), and to two
complete courses or pressings for the fabric I employ ten notches (though this
number may be varied), and to simplify the movements I will number them,
calling that motion No. 1 which takes place immediately after the presser
bar has acted, and the sinkers are forcing the loops over the heads of the
needles; motion No. 2, that which takes place when the work is taken back,
and the machine has conveyed the two guide bars and their sets of threads
under the needles; motion No. 3 will take place when the machine has raised
the two guide bars and sets of threads above or over the needles; motion
No. 4 will take place when the machine has lowered the two guide bars or

page_text: sets of threads below the needles again; and motion No. 5 will take place
when the machine has again raised the two guide bars or sets of threads above
the needles. The machine will then lower the two guide bars or sets of threads
below the needles and bring forward the two laps of threads under the beards
of the needles (or when a light fabric is required, only one lap may be brought
under the beards of the needles, but this fabric not being so fast or firm when
cut up, I prefer the other). The pressing motion again takes place, which
completes one course or succession of loops. Nos. 6, 7, 8, 9, and 10 motions
take place in the same order in working the second course or succession of
loops, as the Numbers 1 to 5 did in the first course above given.
The Diagrams show two wheels cut, to give motion to the respective guide
bars or sets of threads to the right or left hand.
Having thus described the nature of my said Invention, and the manner of
performing the same, I would have it understood that I do not confine myself
to the precise motions of the two guide bars or sets of threads here given, as
such may be varied, so long as the peculiar character of my Invention be
retained; but what I do claim is, the manufacture in warp machinery of a
compound fabric with regular ribs or weils longitudinally on one surface
thereof, similar to the ribs or weils produced in the stocking frame, and also
to those produced by warp machinery in the fabric called "taffeta," but with
the other surface of a different character, suitable to be raised into or other-
wise to form a pile or fleece by the operation of two bars or sets of threads, as
explained.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Clarke, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Nineteenth day of August, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-six.
Witness,
SAMUEL B. ROGERS.
WILLIAM CLARKE. (L.S.)