Improvements in Trimming Mechanism for Sewing Machines.
Year: 1899

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Trimming Mechanism for Sewing Machines.
I, SAMUEL HICKOX WHEELER, of Fairfield, State of Connecticut, United States
of America, Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in
what manner the same is to bo performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement:
-
In some classes of work, notably boot and shoe work, it frequently happens that
a folded edge is to be stitched upon material underlying it, and the free edge of
the underlying material is to be cut off substantially in line with the folded edge.
The apparatus herein described has been especially devised for doing this class
of trimming, and owing to the peculiar construction and location of the parts it
is possible to trim the free edge at a point more or less within the line of the
folded edge, this being especially desirable in connection with shoe tops.
In this invention the cutter carrying bar is arranged to slide in guideways in
an angular direction transverse to the line of direction of the seam being stitched,
or the feed, such location enabling the blade to pass under the folded edge referred
to.
To co-operate with this folded edge I have arranged an edge gauge which con-
tacts with the folded edge between the cutter blade and the operator, the cutting
edge of the blade reciprocating in a plane outside of the acting face of the said
gauge, so that under no circumstances can the cutting edge of the blade meet and
nar the folded edge of the material which is often finished leather.
The edge gauge is spring pressed so that it may bear upon the surface which
is to be removed by trimming, and may yield to any variation in thickness
thereof; and this edge gauge is so pivoted that no amount of pressure of the folded
edge against it will tend to lift or displace the edge-gauge.
The bar carrying the cutter blade has connected to it an operating link which
is attached to an elbow lever driven by a rock-shaft which may be slid longitu-
dinally in a suitable bearing, so that a roller or other stud carried thereby and
entering a hole in said elbow lever may be moved to enter a groove in a cam on
the main rotating shaft of the machine to thereby reciprocate the said bar, or by
a movement of said rock-shaft longitudinally in the opposite direction, which
niay be done at any moment, the said roller or other stud may be removed from
the influence of said cam, and the cutter bar and its cutter; as well as the edge-
gauge, may be lifted entirely from the work, leaving the sewing parts to operate
without any interference with either of the same.
This provision of withdrawing the knife and gauge from operative position
temporarily is essential in many classes of work being done.
I believe myself to be the first to employ a cutter bar having a blade adapted
to be reciprocated in an inclined plane transverse to the direction of feed, and also
I believe myself to be the first to so combine with such a cutter bar and blade,
an edge-gauge which may be put into its inoperative position when the cutter
bar is thrown out of action, and hence this invention is not limited to the exact
devices herein shown and described, but I may employ instead any other usual
or equivalent devices having the same method of operation.
My invention is illustrated in the accompanying drawings, in which:
Figure 1, in side elevation, represents a sufficient portion of a well known
sewing machine with my improvements added to enable my invention to be under-

page_text: stood, the presser foot being shown in its elevated position, but with the blade of
the cutter and its edge-gauge in their operative positions;
. Figure 2 is a detail taken from the rear side of Figure 1, chiefly to show the
cutter blade, its carrying-bar and the edge-gauge, and means for operating said
bar, said figure also showing part of the presser foot and with material there-
under in position to be sewn and trimmed;
it;
Figure 3 is a sectional detail view on linee Figure 1;
Figure 4 is a sectional detail showing the elbow lever and means for operating
Figure 5 shows the rock-shaft, its arm having a stud entering said levor, and
a second lever which is withdrawn from the cam ;
Figure 6 shows the lower end of the bar with its attached blade or cutter, and
a folded edge lying on, it may be, a shoe lining, which is to be trimmed away
simultaneously with the stitching operation;
Figure 7 is a detail of the blade;
Figure 8 is a partial plan view of the parts shown in Figure 6, it also showing
the edge-gauge in position against an edge of the material, the figure showing
the line of stitches;
Figure 9 is a detail showing part of Figure 2 but with the blade and gauge
elevated in their inoperative position above the work plate;
Figure 10 is a plan view of the throat plate; and
Figure 11, a sectional detail thereof to show the blade passage.
..Like letters of reference indicate corresponding parts in the several figures.
The bed plate A, the overhanging arm A, the needle-bar A³ having an eye-
pointed needle a, the presser foot A³, shown as a roller, it being carried by a
vertically movable presser-bar, the take-up A, the tension A, the main shaft A6
in the overhanging arm and deriving its motion from the pulley A' fast on the
said shaft, the links A8 connected with said shaft and extended downwardly to
the double cranks of the lower shaft for actuating the stitch forming mechanism
located below the bed plate and complemental to the needle-bar and needle. are
and may be all substantially as represented in the well known Wheeler & Wilson
sewing machines on the market, so that said parts need not be herein further
described.
The upper side of the 'overhanging arm A¹ supports a stand B which receives
a hollow rock-shaft B', see Figure 5, having fixed to it at one end an elbow
lever B, a depending arm of said lever having a hole B³, see Figure 5, while the
other or longer arm of said lever receives a stud screw B Figure 4 which is
surrounded by the upper end of a link B, the lower end of which in turn sur-
rounds a pin, or projection B Figures 2 and 3 extended from a collar B7 fast on
the bar or actuator B8 to which is attached the blade or cutter B⁹.
The hollow rock shaft B receives through it a shaft C having at one end an
arm or disc C provided. as herein shown, with a stop pin C. it serving to limit
the sliding motion of the said rod C in the hollow rock-shaft B¹.
The rod is reduced in diameter near one end and is thereby left with a
shoulder C against which bears one end of a spring C³, so that said spring
normally acts to move the said rod in the direction of the arrow thereon in
Figure 5.
The outer end of the rod C has fixed upon it an arm C having a stud C which
enters the hole B3 in the short arm of the elbow lever B, and said arm also has
at its lower end a roller or other stud C which may enter the cam groove in the
cani Figure 4 attached to the main shaft As, said stud when in said groove
causing the arm C to be vibrated and through the stud C in the hole of said elbow
Tever: vibrating the elbow lever and reciprocating the blade carrying bar B
to effect the trimming of the work, but whenever it is desired to put the said blade
and bar in their inoperative position the attendant has merely to push the rod C
in the rock-shaft in a direction opposite the arrow thereon, such movement
renioving the roller or other studs out from the groove of the cam, and

page_text: immediately thereafter a spiral or other spring Co acts to move the said arm C
and elbow lever to the right into the dotted line position Figure 2, leaving the
olbow lever and the bar and blade at rest.
To again start the trimming mechanism into operation, the operator merely
presses upon the projection or hand-picco D extended from the disc or arm Cĭ,
which turns the said rock shaft in opposition to the spring Co, bringing the roller
or other stud C8, in line with the cam groove before actuating it, when the
spring C³ immediately acts and causes said roller or other stud to enter said cam
groove.
As herein shown, the underside of the arm A' has suitably bolted to it a
frame D, it being located at one side of the same and extended diagonally toward
the line of seam and feed, said frame being provided with suitable bearings D³
and D, in which is free to slide the bar BB before described.
The bar 18 has a second collar D5 provided with an extended pin De Figure 9
which enters a slot in the upper end of an elbow lever D7 fulcrumed loosely on a
screw stud 18, said stud being passed through a slot din said lever, a spring d¹
connected to the upper end of said lever and to the bearing D serving to keep
the upper end of the slot in said lever upon the upper side of the stud screw.
The short arm 2 of the elbow lever D7 receives the edge gauge 3, it being held
in adjusted position therein by a set screw 4 Figures 1, 3 and 9 the spring di
keeping the acting end of said' edge-gauge normally pressed in a yielding manner
upon the surface of the material which is to be trimmed from underneath the
folded part.
In case, however, it is not desired that the end of the gauge should bear upon
the material to be trimmed off, then the set screw 5, see Figures 1, 2 and 3 may
be turned so that its inner end, acting against the elbow lever D', will limit the
descent of the gauge-under the spring d.
During the reciprocations of the rod B and the trimming of the material
through the devices described, the stud D slides up and down in the slot of the
clbow lever but does not turn the said elbow lever upon its fulcrum, the stud
screw 18.,
Whenever, however, it is desired to remove the blade of the cutter and the
edge gauge from operative position, as for instance while some other part of the
work is being stitched which it is not necessary to trim, the operator, as herein-
before described, throws the lever B2 out of operative position with relation to
the cam C, and in such position the said elbow lever through the link B5 pulls
the bar B8 upwardly diagonally in its bearings D³, D', of the frame D, and at the
same time the stud D in a slot of the elbow levers acts upon the end of said slot
and raises the elbow lever with its edge-gauge, the slot d in the lower end of said
elbow lever at such time sliding on the fulcrum D³.
The slot d is so shaped that the elbow lever D', carrying the edge-gauge, may
rise to enable the edge-gauge to adapt itself to the thickness of the material
under it, without removing the edge-gauge laterally away from the folded edge è
Figure 8 of the material lying on the part el on or above which the edge-gauge
rests or travels.
The slot is so shaped that when the lever D' is in its operative position and the
acting part of the edge-gauge bears against the folded edge of the material being
stitched to the material el to be trimmed, no amount of pressure of the said' folded
edge against the edge-gauge will move it laterally away from the line of seam.
The curve in the lower end of the slot d as the lever D7 is fully elevated, gives
a quick lateral movement to the lever and to the edge-gauge, so that the latter is
removed entirely from the path of the needle-bar as the latter continues to operate
the stitch.
It will be noticed that the needle bar reciprocates in a vertical plane, and that
the bar B carrying the blade B reciprocates in an inclined plane at one side of
the line of seam and in a plane transverse to the direction of the feed and the
direction of the seam being sewn, so that said blade is free to work under the

page_text: :
edge e as represented in Figure 6, and cut off the lining or other material e¹ to
which the said edge is being stitched, leaving the said cut edge substantially
inside of the line of the edge.
To enable the blade B to be reciprocated in its transvorse position, it becomes
necessary to change the slot in the throat plate through which the blade
reciprocates.
Figures 10 and 11 show the throat plate d having the needle hole d*, feed
passage d³, and slot in. which moves the spring controlled sliding block d³, said
block closing one side of the slot in which the blade of the cutter acts..
Herein I have bevelled the acting edge of said block at that side toward the
needle hole, and have also bevelled the underside of the throat-plate next the
acting end of said block, so that I have formed a diagonally or inclined passage
in which the said blade may work.
The shank of the blade B has a slot e³ Figures 3 and 7 which is entered by
suitable set screws threaded into an adjustable knife or blade support e,
Figures 1, 6 and 9, said knife support having at its upper end a block e slotted
to receive the rather small shank of the set screw e, said set screw attaching the
block and support in an adjustable manner to the lower end of the bar B.
The inner side of the block has a groove which embraces a little spline made
on the bar B³, sec Figure 3, to ensure the right line of adjustment of the said
block and support with relation to said bar.
This adjustment is of especial importance in the trimming mechanism herein
described, for the reason that it enables the block and the blade to be moved with
relation to the bar in order that the pointed end of the blade and its cutting
edge just above it, may correctly enter the slot in the throat plate and not bind
therein in any adjustments of the throat plate for closer or wider trimming, such
adjustments being well understood.
The stud B extended from the collar B7 fast on the bar 138 is extended through
a forked guide f, herein shown as secured to the guide frame D³ by suitable set
screws, said stud working in said guideway preventing any rocking motion to
the bar in its reciprocation and ensuring the proper position of the cutting edge
of the blade.
The guideways so formed receive through them a suitable clamping screw f
Figure 2, the rotation of which enables any wear to be compensated for.
The edge e may be a folded edge.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is
-
1. The use in a sewing machine, of the following instrumentalities, viz.: stitch-
forming mechanism, a work support, feeding mechanism to move said material
over said work support, a reciprocating trimming blade, means to support said
blado in a diagonal position in a vertical plane transverse to the direction of
feed and of stitching, and a throat plate having its underside shaped to co-operate
with said inclined blade and form a second member of the trimming mechanism,
substantially as described.
2. The use in a trimming mechanism for sewing machines, of an edge-gauge
standing above the material to be removed by a trimming blade, said edge-gauge
serving to guide the edge of the material from under which projects the edge of
other material to be trimmed, a reciprocating trimming blade, means to support
said blade in a diagonal position in a vertical plane transverse to the direction
of feed and of stitching, combined with a throat-plate bevelled at its underside
to receive said inclined blade, to operate, substantially as described.
.. 3. The use in a trimming mechanism for sewing machines, of a reciprocating
trimming blade, an edge-gauge, a lever carrying said edge-gauge and presenting
its acting end above the material to be trimmed, and means to automatically
move said lever when the blade is put into its inoperative position to thereby
---

page_text: lift the said edge-gauge and at the same time move it laterally away from the
line-of stitching, substantially as described.
4. The use in a trimming mechanism for sewing machines of a reciprocating
trimming blade, means to support said blade in a diagonal position in a vertical
plane transverse to the direction of feed and of stitching, and a throat plate
bevelled at its underside to receive said inclined blade.
5. The use in a trimming mechanism for sowing machines of a bar having an
attached blade, co-operating means against which said blade may act to trim the
material, a guide for said bar to keep it in a diagonal position at one side the
line of stitching and feed, means to reciprocate said bar in said guide transversely
to the line of stitching and of feed, an edge-gauge, a lever upon which it is
mounted, and means between said bar and lever to cause said lever and gauge to
follow said bar into its inoperative position when it is desired to place the cutter
bar and gauge out of action, substantially as described.
6. In a trimming mechanism for sewing machines, an edge-gauge connected
with a slotted lever, a fulcrum for said lever, and a spring to keep said lever
seated on said fulcrum, substantially as described.
7. In a trimming mechanism for sewing machines, an edge-gauge secured to an
elbow lever provided with a slot, a fulcrum for said lever, a spring to keep said
lever seated on said fulcrum, the junction of the gauge with the lever being so
located that lateral pressure upon the edge-gauge may be resisted by said fulcrum,
substantially as described.
8. In a trimming mechanism for sewing machines, an edge-gauge, an elbow
lever to carry it, said elbow lever having a cam slot at its lower end, a fulcrum for
Baid elbow lever, said fulcrum being extended through said cam slot, means to sus-
tain said fulcrum, and means co-acting with said elbow lever to adjust the same
to regulate the position of the edge gauge with relation to the material under-
lying it and to be trimmed away, substantially as described.
9. The use in a trimming mechanism for sewing machines, of an edge-gauge,
an elbow lever having a cam slot near its lower end, a fulcrum for said elbow
lever, a spring to retain said elbow lever seated on said fulcrum, said elbow lover
having at its upper end a slot, a reciprocating bar carrying a trimmer bar, said
bar having a stud entering the slot at the upper end of said elbow lever whereby
when said bar is elevated into its inoperative position said stud; acting in said
slot, will elevate the elbow lever and its attached edge-gauge causing the cam
slot at its lower end to travel on said fulcrum and move the edge-gauge laterally
at the same time it is elevated, substantially as described.
10. The use in a trimming mechanism for sewing machines, of a bar, a guide
to hold said bar in a diagonal plane at one side of the line of seam and direction
of feed a support for the blade, said support being adjustably attached to the
lower end of said bar, and a blade adjustably secured to said support, combined
with a throat plate, an edge-gauge, and means to reciprocate said bar in a diagonal
path transverse to the direction of feed and of the seam being sewed by the stitch
forming mechanism, substantially as described.
11. The use in a sewing machine, with a vertically reciprocating needle, of
a trimming knife which is inclined relatively to the vertical plane and sidewiso
to the seam, or the direction of the feed of the work, a throat plate co-operating
with said knife, and means for reciprocating the said knifo in the direction of its
length; whereby the edge of the lower layer of two superposed layers of material
being sewn together may be trimmed off within the edge of the upper layer.
www
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
45, Southampton Buildings, London, W.C.,
Agents for the Applicant.
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
45, Southampton Buildings, London, W.C.,
Agents for the Applicant.