Improvements in the Manufacture of Curtains and other Lace Fabrics in Twist Lace Machines.
Year: 1892

page_text: Date of Application, 31st Aug., 1892
Complete Specification Left, 28th June, 1893-Accepted, 31st Aug., 1893
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Curtains and other Lace
Fabrics in Twist Lace Machines.
I, EDWARD COPE, of Chilwell Hall near Nottingham, Manufacturer, do hereby
declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention has for its object improvements in the manufacture of curtains
and other lace fabrics in twist lace machines.
The machine is provided with warp threads equal in number to the carriages but
one half of the carriages are dumb by which I mean that they carry no thread.
Also there are spool threads. The fabric I produce is in part a close clothing
produced by the spool threads passing to and fro from pillar to pillar in the usual
way throwing past three carriages, two of which carry threads. In other parts
the fabric is produced by spool threads in like manner throwing over three
carriages of which the centre one alone carries a thread. The result is the
production in such parts of the fabric of a series of disconnected chenille like
bands and these are made to alternate in any desired order with the close clothing.
It will thus be seen that each chenille band consists of a pillar in which are
two warps and a bobbin with also a zigzag spool thread and another spool thread
working close in the pillar.
Any desired length of the chenille bands may be made to form a fringe-either
continuous chenille bands or variations thereof by stopping off at intervals the
chenille and thereby leaving the thread's twisted together for a time in the form of
what is usually called "pillaring."
..
1000
CARPMAEL & Co.,
Agents for the Applicant.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Curtains and other Lace
Fabrics in Twist Lace Machines.
I, EDWARD COPE, of New Basford near Nottingham, formerly of Chilwell
Hall Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained in
and by the following statement :—
This invention has for its object improvements in the manufacture of curtains
and other lace fabrics in twist lace machines.
The machine is provided with warp threads equal in number to the carriages but
one half of the carriages are dumb by which I mean that they carry no thread.
Also there are spool threads. The fabric I produce is in part a close clothing
produced by the spool threads passing to and fro from pillar to pillar in the usual
way throwing past three carriages, two of which carry threads. In other parts the
fabric is produced by spool threads in like manner throwing over three carriages
of which the centre one alone carries a thread. The result is the production in
such parts of the fabric of a series of disconnected chenille like bands and these
are made to alternate in any desired order with the close clothing.
It will thus be seen that each chenille band consists of a pillar in which are two
warps and a bobbin with also a zigzag spool thread and another spool thread
working close in the pillar.

page_text: continuous chenille bands or variations thereof by stopping off at intervals the
chenille and thereby leaving the threads twisted together for a time in the form of
what is usually called "pillaring."
In order that my said invention may be fully understood and readily carried into
effect I will proceed to describe the drawings hereunto annexed.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.
Figure 1 is a transverse vertical section of a portion of the machinery which I
employ: The parts here shewn are not themselves novel but there is novelty in
the manner in which they operate, in the relative movements imparted to them and
-in the fabric which is produced.
a a are combs, b is one of a row of carriages which is passed to and fro from
comb to comb. is the bobbin in the carriage. Instead of all the carriages
carrying bobbins with thread wound upon them as is usual only half of the
carriages are so provided, every alternate carriage being without thread or blank.
cl cc and care four guide bars with eyes carrying other threads namely warp
threads and spool, threads. Each bar carries as many threads as there are bobbins
in use in the machine; thus for each bobbin thread there are four other threads
carried respectively by the bars c¹³ ³ c¹. The bars cand care
they carry threads drawn from a warp beam below.
"7
warp bars
There are also front and back point bars but these and other well known parts
are not shown in the figure.
21
The bar e may be called the "chenille bar; it carries the threads which
produce the chenille bands wherever the pattern requires. As these threads are
used up or worked into the fabric at unequal rates they are supplied separately
from spools.
The bare may be called the "spool bar" it carries threads drawn from spools
to produce the close clothing which serves to connect the chenille bands in
accordance with the pattern.
The bars ce c³ and receive endwise movement by means of wheels shown in
other figures of the drawings hereinafter described. dare spring jacks; they
are equal in number to the carriages and are fixed upon a shaft d'. The shaft d'
has a rocking movement imparted to it so that the noses of the jacks at suitable
times enter amongst the threads and prevent them in some cases from receiving the
movement which the bars would otherwise impart to them. Such of the spring
jacks as are not required to operate upon the threads are held back by strings
which are controlled by the jacquard which thus produces the pattern. All the
jacks which are not held back by the jacquard enter amongst the threads at every
motion prior to the passage of the carriages from comb to comb.
Where the jacks enter chenille bands are produced and where they are kept
back, and so are not allowed to interfere with the threads, close clothing is made.
d is the jack bar, it serves to guide the noses of the jacks and it shogs or moves
endwise one gate or space for each motion of the carriages whilst the jacks are out.
Figure 2 represents the fabric produced.
eee are chenille like bands and ff is close clothing in the midst of the chenille
bands; the chenille bands and the clothing may be intermixed in accordance with
any prearranged design.
In Figure 2 g g g are lines on which there are bobbin threads and hh are spaces
or intervals where there is no bobbin thread; these spaces correspond to the blank
carriages in the machine. On each line y of the figure a bobbin thread works
continuously with a front warp thread, one of the threads carried by the bar c¹
and a back warp thread, one of the threads carried by the bar c; these warp
threads never engage with any other bobbin thread. The bobbin thread also
works continuously with a chenille thread one of the threads carried by the bar c²;
this thread sometimes produces purls or loops on either side of the pillar, thus

page_text: making the chenille band, whilst at other times the chenille thread works close to
the bobbin thread.
Lastly for each bobbin thread there is a corresponding spool thread, one of the
threads carried by the bar c³. In the chenille band the spool thread does not leave
its bobbin thread, but in the clothing it passes over two or more bobbin threads..
In Figure 3 of the drawings the wheel which imparts movement to the guide
bars c¹ and is represented it is marked k; it operates upon a roller or truck at
the lower end of a lever 1 to which both bars c' and c are connected as is seen in
plan in Figure 4. Springs at the further end of the bars hold the truck against
the wheel. The wheel k has two steps upon it and each time after the carriages
have passed from comb to comb the warp threads are moved by the operation of
the wheel each thread across the path of its bobbin carriage. Thus the carriage
passes first on one side of the warp thread and then in returning it passes on the
other side. The threads are thus caused to twist or interweave.
The presence or absence of the jacks has no influence on the warp threads as
these threads move one gate or space only.
The guide bar c² is moved by a wheel shown in Figure 5.
This wheel marked m
is differently cut, with two steps on either side. After the first step of the wheel
has operated to move the bar the jacks (when permitted) enter amongst the
threads and retain them so that although the second step of the wheel moves the
bar in the opposite direction the bar does not take the threads back with it or
rather it takes only those which the jacks do not retain.
Where the jacks do not interfere each chenille thread simply passes from side to
side of its bobbin and twists closely upon it. But where the jacks come in the
chenille thread is taken across the path of one of the blank carriages and when
the carriages enter amongst the threads, this chenille thread finds itself separated
by a blank carriage from its own bobbin carriage. Whilst the threads are thus
placed the points of the point bar which takes up the work enter between the
chenille thread and its bobbin thread and the points in rising carry up the crossing
of the chenille thread and retain it not letting it escape until the other point bar
in like manner has taken up and retained other crossings of the threads. Care is
taken that the length of the points and their movement is such that the loops of
the chenille thread are taken and securely retained in this manner.
Figure 6 shows the wheel which imparts movement to the spool bar c³, it is
marked n; as will be seen it moves its bar two successive steps in the same direction,
the first step brings every spool thread back to its own bobbin whilst the second
step (if the jack permits) carries each spool threads across the path of the next
adjacent bobbin. The jacks however come in between the first and the second
steps and where they do so the spool threads are thereby prevented from moving
when the bar makes this second step. The wheels k m and n are shewn in the
several figures in their proper relative positions, the carriages at this time being
out of the threads and the jacks having just entered amongst them.
Curtains and other lace fabrics manufactured in the manner described I finish off
at the end with a fringe formed by simple pillaring, each bobbin thread and the
threads with which it works producing a plain and independent cord.
Sometimes also in producing the fringe or it might be other part of the fabric I
produce alternately chenilles and plain cords. I do this by means of a wheel o
shown in Figure 7 and mechanism which enables me to change the chenille bar
from one wheel to another. p is the lever upon which the wheel operates and
and are two latches which are directly connected with the chenille bar c³ as
shown. Figure 8 shows a plan of the latches and Figure 9 shows the wheels m
and o the levers and the latches. The jacquard controls the latches and allows one
or other of them as required to engage with its lever and work the bar; in the one
case producing chenille bands and in the other plain pillars. The cavity in the
wheel o at X allows the lever to be free at the time when the latch engages or
disengages, the bar e falling at this time to a dead stop.

page_text: Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. The method herein described for the production of chenille like bands in lace
fabrics, consisting in interposing dumb carriages between the bobbin carriages ;
also in providing a guide bar having threads which the movements of the bar carry
to and fro each across its bobbin carriage and the dumb carriage on either side
thereof, and generally in operating as herein set forth.
2. The method herein described for the production of portions of plain pillaring
alternately with chenille bands or as a fringe to a fabric ornamented with chenille
bands, by providing two wheels capable of being used alternatively to actuate the
chenille bar.
3. A machine lace fabric composed of chenille like bands and clothing as herein
described.
4. A machine lace fabric composed as herein described of pillars forming chenille
bands, each pillar consisting of two warp threads and a bobbin thread, a zigzag
spool thread and another spool thread which connects the pillars at intervals and
at other times works close in the pillar.
Dated this 28th day of June 1802
CARPMAEL & Co.,
Agents for the Applicant.