IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINES FOR SEWING STRAW BRAID AND SIMILAR ARTICLES, WHICH IM- PROVEMENTS ARE ALSO PARTLY APPLICABLE TO MECHANICAL MOTIONS FOR OTHER PURPOSES
Year: 1878

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to John Henry Johnson, of 47, Lincoln's Inn Fields, in the
County of Middlesex, Gentleman, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS
IN MACHINES FOR SEWING STRAW BRAID AND SIMILAR ARTICLES, WHICH IM-
PROVEMENTS ARE ALSO PARTLY APPLICABLE TO MECHANICAL MOTIONS FOR
OTHER PURPOSES." A communication from abroad by Henry Friedberger, of
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. United States of America.
Sealed the 28th February 1879, and dated the 4th September 1878.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said John Henry Johnson at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 4th September 1878.
JOHN HENRY JOHNSON, of 47, Lincoln's Inn Fields, in the County of Middlesex,
Gentleman. "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINES FOR SEWING STRAW BRAID AND
SIMILAR ARTICLES, WHICH IMPROVEMENTS ARE ALSO PARTLY APPLICABLE TO
MECHANICAL MOTIONS FOR OTHER PURPOSES." A communication from abroad by
Henry Friedberger, of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, United States of America.
This Invention relates to certain improvements in machines for sewing straw
braid for the manufacture of hats, bonnets, and other like articles; the main object
of the Invention being to improve the devices for feeding and crimping the braid,
and the mechanism for operating the feed rolls, part of this mechanism being also
applicable to other machines.
In carrying out this Invention there is formed on the driving shaft of tho
machine a collar having a cam slot, to which is adapted a pin on a bar adapted to
guides in the table and carrying a needle, a longitudinally reciprocating movement
being thus imparted to the needle bar and needle as the shaft revolves. A shuttle
is employed, the shuttle race of which extends transversely across the machine, the
shuttle carrier being reciprocated from the shaft through the medium of a suitable
D...

page_text: connecting arm. To the shaft is secured a hub on which are formed a rib and
teeth so constructed and so adapted to a series of teeth on a wheel on the inner end
of a transverse shaft (as more fully herein after described), as to impart an inter-
mittent movement of the said shaft and lock it between its movements.
The transverse shaft serves through the medium of spur wheels to impart motion
in contrary directions to two other transverse shafts arranged the one above the
other, and both of which are adapted to pivotted bearings at the rear end, the front
end of the lower shaft being adapted to a spring box, and the front end of the
upper shaft to a box adapted to guides in a standard secured to the frame of the
machine. The upper box is provided with a stem from which projects a pin
adapted to a curved slot in an extension of the standard, so that by turning the
said stem, the box, and with it the front end of the upper shaft, may be raised or
lowered.
The upper
shaft carries at the front end a feed roll, the outer end of the said
feed roll being reduced so as to form an angular extension, which in the present
example is assumed to be square, but may be made triangular or otherwise if
desired. This angular extension is recessed at the edges for the passage of the
needle.
The feed roll at the front end of the lower shaft, instead of being reduced like
the upper feed roll, has a series of toothed rings, so arranged that they will act on
the braid on both sides of the needle. These rings may be cast or otherwise
formed directly on the feed roll, but it is preferred to reduce the said roll in
diameter and then secure to the said reduced portion any desired number of toothed
rings, the distance between the adjacent rings being determined by intervening
washers which are less in diameter than the rings.
Beneath the box of the lower feed roll is a spring which bears upon an arm, the
vertical portion of which forms a guide, whilst its horizontal portion has a threaded
opening adapted to a threaded stem which extends up through the bed of the
machine so as to be operated from above, thereby avoiding the inconvenience and
delay attending the adjustment of the spring from below for the purpose of
accommodating the feed rolls to the thickness of braid which passes through the
saine.
For the purpose of bending the strips of braid around the upper feed roll prior to
the entrance of the needle, a crimping or folding plate is employed, which is recipro-
cated by means of a cam on the main shaft, and has a rounded top and a curved
inner surface in which are formed a number of grooves corresponding in number
and position with the toothed rings on the lower feed roll, so that when the
crimping plate is depressed it will fit closely to the said lower feed roll for a pur-
pose herein-after explained. The upper edge of the crimping plate is slotted in the
centre for the passage of the needle.
Adjacent to the crimping plate is a box or frame within which is pivotted a disc,
having formed in it a cam slot, and having a toothed periphery adapted to the
thread of a vertically fixed screw stem, upon turning which the disc will be
rotated.
The cam slot receives the stem of the needle so that by rotating the disc in
one direction or the other the point of the needle is thrown up or down, thereby
governing the point at which the needle passes through the crimped braids, and
consequently regulating the extent to which the stitch is exposed on the face of
the braid.
The advantage of the disc with its cam slot is that a new wearing surface is
always brought into play upon cach new adjustment of the disc, so that the latter will
remain in operative condition for a much longer time than a vertically adjustable
plate, having a single circular opening upon which tho wear is constant. The sides
of the box have vertical slots which permit the desired deflection of the end of the
needle.
A horizontally sliding plate having a cam alot may be substituted for the

page_text: pivotted disc if desired, but the intter is preferred on account of its compactness and
readiness of operation.
The machine operates in the following manner:-
When the layers of braid are being moved forward by the feed rolls the needle
is retracted and the crimping plate is depressed, so that it fits closely to the lower
feed roll and provents the braid from being carried around by the same, the rounded
top of the said plate serving to deflect the braid upwards.
When the feeding motion is completed the crimping plato rises so as to bind the
braid round the angular extension of the upper feed roll, the needle then moving
forward through the crimped braid so as to form the stitch.
When the needle has been retracted the crimping plate descends and the braid
is then fed forwards as before prior to a repetition of the operation.
It is proposed to employ the usual plates for guiding the braid as it is fed to the
machine, the braid passing first between lugs on one guide, and thence under a
projecting finger of the other guide to the feed rolls.
The upper layer of braid (that is to say, the outor layer of the circular mat which
is being sewed), abuts against a lug on a plate which is connected by a spring hinge
to the last-mentioned guide so as to rest on and overlap the lower layer, the
amount of overlap of the two layers of braid being determined by the position of
the lug in respect to the lugs on the other guide.
For the purpose of readily adjusting these two guides for the lower and upper
layers of braid without the necessity of stopping the machine, cams are employed
having bearings in the table of the machine and having suitable operating handles,
these cams being adapted to slots in the guides, so that either guide can be quickly
adjusted to the required position by simply turning the corresponding cam.
The guides may also be made adjustable if desired by means of nut and screws.
I shall now proceed to describe more fully the peculiar construction of the wheels
by which the continuously rotating shaft imparts an intermittent motion to the
transverse shaft first mentioned (and consequently to the feed roll), and locks it
between its movements.
On the periphery of the hub or disc is a rib concentric with the disc, and pro-
jecting therefrom in a plane at right angles to the axis of the wheel.
The continuity of this rib is interrupted at one point where there is a group of
three teeth arranged on the periphery of the disc preferably at an angle of 45°, in
respect to a plane at right angles to the axis of the wheel.
The wheel which engages with this driving wheel consists of a disc, on the
periphery of which are arranged in a spiral or angular direction a number of
groups of three teeth each, similar to those on the driving wheel, the number of
groups being determined however by the desired number of intermittent move-
ments of the wheel in respect to the movement of the driving shaft.
When the rib of the driving wheel occupies a position between two of the groups
of the teeth on the other wheel the latter is locked, for the end of the last tooth of
one group is in contact with one side of the rib, and the end of the first tooth of
the other group is in contact with the opposite side of the rib.
Assuming the driving wheel to be in motion the moment the rib, owing to the
portion of it which is cut away, ceases to control the other wheel, the first inclined
tooth of the driving wheel will be in contact with the last tooth of one group on
the other wheel, and the middle tooth of the driving wheel will be in contact, or
nearly so, with the front tooth of the other group of the other wheel, so that as the
driving wheel continues to move the other wheel must necessarily be moved with
it, the last inclined tooth of the driving wheel finally operating on the middle tooth
of the second group of the other wheel, and the inoment the latter tooth is free
from contact with the last tooth of the driving wheel the second group of the other
wheel will occupy the position formerly occupied by the first group, and the other
wheel will be locked by the rib which occupies a position between the second and

page_text: third groups of the said wheel, which will have been moved to the extent of one
quarter of a revolution during one complete revolution of the driving wheel.
If desired there may be single inclined teeth or groups of more or less than three
teeth on each wheel, and the intermittent movement of the driving wheel may be
made irregular, whilst the driving wheel turns at an uniform speed by arranging
two or more groups of teeth on the driving wheel at irregular intervals.
It will be evident that this new mechanical motion, consisting of peculiarly
constructed wheels, one of which (being the driver), rotated continuously, will not
only impart an intermittent motion to the other, but will lock it during the
intervals which elapse between its movements, may be applied to other uses and
machines than operating the feed rolls of a sewing machine.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said John Henry Johnson in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 4th
March 1879.
JOHN HENRY JOHNSON, of 47, Lincoln's Inn Fields, in the County of Middlesex,
Gentleman. "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINES FOR SEWING BRAID AND SIMILAR
ARTICLES, WHICH IMPROVEMENTS ARE ALSO PARTLY APPLICABLE TO MECHANICAL
MOTIONS FOR OTHER PURPOSES." A communication from abroad by Henry
Friedberger, of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, United States of America.
The said Invention relates to certain improvements in machines for sewing
straw braid for the manufacture of hats, bonnets, and other like articles, and the
main object of the Invention is to improve the devices for feeding and crimping the
braid and the mechanism for operating the feed rolls, part of this mechanism being
also applicable to other machines.
And in order that the said Invention may be fully understood I shall now pro-
ceed more particularly to describe the same, and for that purpose shall refer to the
several Figures on the annexed Sheet of Drawings, the same letters of reference
indicating corresponding parts in all the Figures.
Figure 1 of the accompanying Drawing represents a longitudinal section of a
sewing machine constructed according to the said Invention.
Figure 2 is a plan of the machine.
Figure 3, a transverse section taken along the line 1, 2, (Figure 2).
Figures 4 and 5, detached views of parts of the machine.
Figures 6 and 7, sectional views shewing the manner in which the sowing is
performed.
Figure 8, an enlarged view of the mechanical movement through the medium of
which the feed rolls are operated.
And Figure 9, a diagram illustrating the construction of part of the device.
A is the base or frame of the machine in bearings in which is supported the
driving shaft B. On the latter is formed a collar a, having a cam slot to which is
adapted a pin on a bar D, fitted to guides in the table and carrying a needle x, a
longitudinally reciprocating movement being thus imparted to the needle bar and
needle as the shaft B revolves.
E is the shuttle race which extends transversely across the machine, the shuttle
carrier being reciprocated from the shaft B through the medium of a suitable con-
necting arm B. To the shaft B is secured a hub d on which are formed a rib and
teeth, so constructed and so adapted to a series of teeth on a wheel on the inner
end of a transverse shaft F (as more fully herein-after described), as to impart an
intermittent movement to the said shaft and lock it between its movements.
The shaft F serves through the medium of spur wheels f, f³, and g, g', Figures 2
and 3, to impart motion in contrary directions to two shafts G, G', both of which are
adapted to pivotted bearings at the rear end, the front end of the shaft G being adapted
to a spring box h, and the front end of the shaft G' to a box h', adapted to guides in
a standard H secured to the frame of the machine. The box h' is provided with a
stem i from which projects a pin adapted to a curved slot in an extension of the
standard H, so that by turning the handle of the said stem i, the box h', and
with it the front end of the shaft G', may be raised or lowered (Figures 1 and 3).
The upper shaft G' carries at the front end a feed roll m', the outer end of the
said feed roll being reduced so as to form an angular extension, which is square in
the present instance, but may be made triangular or otherwise if desired. This
angular extension is recessed at the edges for the passage of the needle, as shewn in
the Drawing.
The feed roll me at the front end of the lower shaft G, in lieu of being reduced like
the upper feed roll, has a series of toothed rings n, so arranged that they will act
on the braid on both sides of the needle c.

page_text: These rings may be cast or otherwise formed directly on the feed roll m, but it
is preferred to reduce the said roll in diameter and then secure to the said reduced
portion any desired number of toothed rings, the distance between the adjacent
rings being determined by intervening washers which are less in diameter than the
rings.
The spring of the box of the feed roll G bears upon an arm j, the vertical
portion of which forms a guide, while its horizontal portion has a threaded opening
adapted to a threaded stem ' which extends up through the bed of the machine s0
as to be operated from above, thereby avoiding the inconvenience and delay
attending the adjustment of the spring from below for the purpose of accommodating
the feed rolls to the thickness of braid which passes through the same (Figure 3).
E is the crimping plate for bending the strips of braid around the upper feed
roll prior to the entrance of the needle. This crimping or folding plate is recipro-
cated by means of a cam b on the main shaft, as shewn in Figures 1 and 3, and has
a rounded top e and a curved inner surface c¹ in which are formed a number of
grooves e (see Figure 5), corresponding in number and position with the toothed
rings n on the feed roll m, so that when the crimping plate is depressed, as shewn
in Figure 6, it will fit closely to the said lower feed roll for a purpose herein-after
explained. The upper edge of the crimping plate is slotted in the centre for the
passage of the needle x (Figures 1 and 5).
Adjacent to the crimping plate E is a box or frame J, within which is pivotted
a disc K (Figure 4), having formed in it a cam slot k, and having a toothed
periphery adapted to the thread of a vertically fixed screw stem, upon turning
which the disc K will be rotated.
The cam slot receives the stem of the needle x, so that by rotating the disc K
in one direction or the other the point of the needle is thrown up or down, thereby
governing the point at which the needle passes through the crimped braids, and
consequently regulating the extent to which the stitch is exposed on the face of
the braid.
I am aware that vertically adjustable plates have heretofore been used for this
purpose, but the advantage of the disc with its cam slot is that a new wearing
surface is always brought into play upon each new adjustment of the disc, so that
the latter will remain in operative condition for a much longer time than a ver-
tically adjustable plate having a single circular opening upon which the wear is
constant. The sides of the box J have vertical slots which permit the desired
deflection of the end of the needle.
A horizontally sliding plate having a cam slot k may be substituted for the
pivotted disc K if desired, but the latter is preferred on account of its compactness
and readiness of operation.
The action of the machine is shewn in Figures 6 and 7.
When the layers of braid are being moved forward by the feed rolls the needle
is retracted and the crimping plate E is depressed, as shown in Figure 6, so that it
fits closely to the lower feed roll and prevents the braid from being carried around
by the same, the rounded top of said plate E serving to deflect the braid upwards.
When the feeding motion is completed the crimping plate E rises so as to bend
the braid around the angular extension of the upper feed roll, the needle then
moving forward through the crimped braid so as to form the stitch (see Figure 7).
When the needle has been retracted the crimping plate descends and the braid is
then fed forwards as before, prior to a repetition of the operation.
S and T are the usual plates for guiding the braid as it is fed to the machine, the
braid passing first between lugs 7,, on the guide S, and thence under the pro-
jecting finger t of the guide T to the feed rolls.
The upper layer of braid (that is to say the outer layer of the circular mat which
is being sewed), abuts against a lug 8 on a plate t which is connected by a spring
hinge to the guide T, so as to rest on and overlap the lower layer, the amount of
overlap of the two layers of braid being determined by the position of the lugs in
respect to the lugs r, r¹, (Figure 2).

page_text: For the purpose of readily adjusting these two guides S and T for the lower and
upper layers of braid without the necessity of stopping the machine, cams p, p, are
employed having bearings in the table of the machine and having suitable operating
handles q, these cams being adapted to slots in the guides S and T, as shown in
Figure 2, so that either guide S or T can be quickly adjusted to the required
position in the direction of the arrows, Figure 2, by simply turning the corresponding
cam.
The plates S, T, may also be made adjustable if desired by means of nuts and
screws q (Figure 2).
The peculiar construction of the wheels by wheels by which the continuously
rotating shaft B imparts an intermittent motion to the shaft F (and cousequently
to the feed rolls), and locks it between its movements will be best understood by
reference to Figure 8, and the diagram, Figure 9.
On the periphery of the hub or disc d is a rib d³ concentric with the disc, and
projecting therefrom in a plane at right angles to the axis of the wheel.
The continuity of this rib is interrupted at one point where there is a group of
three teeth arranged on the periphery of the disc, preferably at an angle of 45°
in respect to a plane at right angles to the axis of the wheel.
The wheel consists of a disc, on the periphery of which are arranged a number
of groups of three teeth each similar to those on the driving wheel d.
Four groups
1, 2, 3, and 4 of teeth are assumed in Figure 8, groups 2 and 3 only being visible,
the number is determined however by the desired number of intermittent move-
ments of the wheel d¹ in respect to the movement of the driving shaft.
The arrangements of these groups will be understood by reference to Figure 9,
which shows the arrangement of the disc developed, that is to say, a plane strip
of the same width as the wheel and a length equal to the circumference of the same.
As shewn in Figure 8 the rib & occupies a position between the groups 1 and 2
of the teeth on the wheel d', and serves to lock the latter, for the end of the last
tooth of group 1 is in contact with one side of the rib, and the end of the first
tooth of group 2 is in contact with the opposite side of the rib.
Assuming the wheel d to be moving in the direction of the arrow the moment
the rib d² owing to the portion of it which is cut away ceases to control the wheel
d', the first inclined tooth of the wheel & will be in contact with the last tooth of
group 1 on the wheel d', and the middle tooth of the wheel d will be in contact
or nearly so with the front tooth of group 2 of the wheel d', so that as the
wheel d continues to move in the direction of the arrow, the wheel (l' must
necessary ily be moved in the direction of its arrow, the last inclined tooth of
the wheel d finally operating on the middle tooth of group 2 on the wheel d¹, and
the moment the latter tooth is free from contact with the last tooth of the wheel d
group 2 of the wheel d' will occupy the position formerly occupied by group 1, and
the wheel will be locked by the rib d, which occupies a position between the
groups 2 and 3 of the said wheel d', which will have been moved to the extent of
one quarter of a revolution during one complete revolution of the wheel d.
If desired there may be single inclined teeth or groups of more or less than
three teeth on each wheel, and the intermittent movement of the wheel d' may be
made irregular while the wheel & turns at a uniform speed by arranging two or
more groups of teeth on the driving wheel dat irregular intervals.
It will be evident that this new mechanical motion consisting of peculiarly
constructed wheels, one of which (being the driver), rotated continuously, will not
only. impart an intermittent motion to the other, but will lock it during the
intervals which elapse between its movements, may be applied to other uses and
machines than operating the feed rolls of a sewing machine.
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of the said
Invention, and the manner in which the same is or may be used or carried into
effect, I would observe in conclusion that what I consider to be novel and original,

page_text: and therefore claim as the Invention secured to me by the herein-before in part
recited Letters Patent is,-
First. The combination of the feed roll m, having toothed rings as described, with
the grooved crimping plate adapted to the said roll.
Second. The combination of the upper feed roll, having an angular extension
with the lower feed roll, having toothed rings, and with the crimping plato adapted
to the said roll.
Third. The combination of the feeding devices, the needle, and an adjustable
disc or plate k having a cam slot k, as herein-before described.
Fourth. The combination of feeding devices, the pivoted disc k having a cam
slot and toothed periphery, with the operating screw k¹, as herein-before des-
cribed.
Fifth. The combination of the braid guides S, T, with operating cams p, p'.
Sixth. The combination of the plate S and its guiding lugs with the guide T,
having a plate t carrying the lug a connected thereto by a spring hinge, sub-
stantially as herein-before described.
Seventh. The wheel d having one or more inclined teeth or groups of inclined
teeth and a rib &, the continuity of which is interrupted where the inclined teeth
occur in combination with the wheel d', having any desired number of teeth or
groups of teeth corresponding with the teeth of the wheel d, and arranged sub-
stantially as heroin set forth, so as to be locked by the passage of the rib a
between the ends of the teeth or groups of teeth, as herein-before described.
In witness whereof, I, the said John Henry Johnson, have to this my Specifi-
cation set my hand and seal, the Fourth day of March, One thousand
eight hundred and seventy-nine.