AN IMPROVED MACHINE FOR FITTING THE ELASTIC GORES IN GAITER SHOES
Year: 1873

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Frederick John Cheesbrough, of the Office for
Patents, 15, Water Street, Liverpool, in the County of Lancaster,
Consulting Engineer, for the Invention of "AN IMPROVED MACHINE
FOR FITTING THE ELASTIC GORES IN GAITER SHOES."-A communication
from abroad by Joseph Walden, of the City of Newark, in the County
of Essex, State of New Jersey, United States of America.
Scaled the 26th August 1873, and dated the 22nd April 1873.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Frederick John Checs-
brough at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his
Petition, on the 22nd April 1873.
I, FREDERICK JOHN CHEESBROUGH, of the Office for Patents, 15,
Water Street, Liverpool, in the County of Lancaster, Consulting En-
"AN
gineer, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for
IMPROVED MACHINE FOR FITTING THE ELASTIC GORES IN GAITER SHOES," to be
as follows, reference being had to the annexed Drawing, where Figure
One is a. perspective view of the whole of said machine, taken from

page_text: !
the front right-hand corner, and Figure Two is a perspective view of a
part of said machine taken from the rear left-hand corner thereof,
showing the construction of the back and upper part of the machine.
Similar letters of reference represent corresponding parts of the
different Figures composing the Drawing.
To ascertain exactly the nature and extent of this Invention, and
before describing the construction and operation of the machine, it is
necessary to state the work it is intended to do, and explain how that
work is done on said machine.
gore
In the manufacture of gaiter shoes the various parts of the body or
upper of the shoe are first cut to the desired form, and are then fitted
and "stuck" together with gum preparatory to sticking them. In
fitting the different parts of the shoe together by hand the workman
usually commences by folding over the edges of the top of the lining
and around the opening made in the side to receive the elastic that
distinguishes this variety of shoe. After these edges are folded the face
of the fold, or as much of it as may be necessary, is covered with gum;
the edges of the elastic gore are then laid upon the folds and the edges
of the upper (that is, the leather or outside of the shoe) upon the elastic
gore, the edges of which, or of the leather, being first gummed. The
several parts are then pressed together with sufficient force to make
them adhere to one another. Instead, however, of gumming the folds
of the lining, or the edges of the outside or upper, perhaps the better
practice is to gum both sides of the edges of the gore, which
very
much
facilitates the work of fitting in case proper means be provided for
"gumming." This work of fitting and sticking together the several
parts of this variety of shoe has hitherto been done by hand or upon
complicated and expensive machinery.
The object of this Invention is to facilitate, simplify, and cheapen the
doing of this work. This is accomplished through the agency of a
machine, consisting of four principal parts.
First. A platform illustrated in the Drawing by A.
Second. A pair of clamps illustrated by c, c.
Third. A guide clamp illustrated by C.
Fourth. A pair of press plates shown by d, d.
The functions of the plate A are to serve as a platform, upon which
all the work is done, to indicate the position in which the different

page_text: sized linings are to be placed preparatory to folding the edges and to
facilitate the folding after the lining has been placed in position and
secured to the clamps c, c. This plate is secured upon the table B,
raised high enough to bring it within convenient reach of the operator,
the table making part of the platform upon which the work is done.
The position in which the different sized linings are placed upon the
platform is indicated by the figures or index cut in the face of the plate
between the grooves a, a, the different figures indicating the different
sized shoes from nine to thirteen of children, and from one to eleven
of adults. The grooves a, a, being cut at an angle to each other to
correspond with the angle of the gore, which should be the same in all
the sizes. The sizes decreasing in number as the space decreases between
the grooves from the rear to the front of the machine.
The folding of the edges of the lining around the opening made in its
side to receive the gore is done by forcing the fabric in the grooves a, a,
with a thin, flat, blunt-pointed instrument called a creaser, which turns
up the lining by forcing the crease in the grooves, leaving the fold to be
completed by merely turning the fold down on the crease. From this
it will appear that these grooves form and include a scale of sizes; they
mark the place where the crease is to be made, making the gore opening
of the several sizes always the same, and they facilitate the turning of
the fold; indeed, they alone make it possible to accurately turn the
folds straight and of equal width. The function of the clamps c, c, is
merely to hold the lining in position while the edges of the gore opening
are being creased and folded. The function of the guide clamp C is to
hold the gore in position after it has been placed on the folds of the
lining, and to furnish a stop or guide to lay the upper or outside of the
shoe against when it is placed in position upon the gore, and the
function of the press plates d, d, is to press the several parts together
with sufficient force to make them adhere. The press plates d, d, and
guide clamp C are hinged to the platform A, the clamp being set
between the press plates and held when up in the position shown in the
Drawing by means of a spring e. The press plates d, d, are operated
either by the hand or by means of a treadle G connected to the back
and rear end of the plate by means of a bracket P and a rod r in the
manner shown in the Drawing. The clamps c, c, are also operated
either by the hand or through the agency of the treadle G. The hinge
pin of the plates d, d, passing through arms o, o, reaching back to

page_text: receive the pin and embrace both sides of the plates d, d. The rear ends
of these arms o, o, extend back beyond the hinge pin, and are connected
by means of a rod m, against the under side of which a springs is made
to press and force the clamps down upon the face of the platform to hold
the lining in its proper position, the rear ends of the arms o, o, acting
as levers, the fulcrum of which is the hinge pin. The spring s is secured
in a bracket bolted to the rear end of the plate A and is adjusted by
means of a set screw, as shown. Now, after the press plates d, d, are
raised up to their position shown in the Drawing, the clamp plates c, c,
are raised by pressing upon the treadle G, which brings the bracket P.
against the cross bar m, the spring forcing them down ass oon as the
power is removed from the treadle.
In operating the machine the press plates d, d, and guide clamp C
are first raised to the position shown in the Drawing, the clamps c, c,
are then raised as above described, the lining of a shoe, say, No. 6, is
then shoved under the clamp c, c, until the upper back corner of the gore
opening comes on the junction of the index line marked 6 and the line
x, and the side of the gore opening on a line with the grooves a, a. The
bottom edge of the gore opening is then turned over; the side edges
are then pressed in the grooves and folded over on the crease; the elastic
gore is then laid on the folds and the guide clamp brought down to hold
it in position, leaving a parallel margin of the fold on each side of the
clamp about a quarter of an inch wide; the back edge of the front
upper is then laid on the fold against the front side of the clamp, and
the front edge of the back upper against the back side of said clamp on
the fold; the press plates are then brought down forcing the several
parts together with sufficient force to make them stick, always assuming
of course that the edges of the gore or of the lining and upper have been
duly gummed, as above described.
Having now described the construction and operation of this In-
vention, to which is given the name of "Walden's gore fitting machine,"
I beg to state that I disclaim all other gore fitting machines now in use;
T
to

page_text: Second. The platform A in combination with the clamps c, c, or their
equivalents, made to receive the shoe lining and hold it in its adjusted
position while the edges are being creased and folded, as described.
Third. The guide clamp C, or its equivalent, made and combined with
the platform A to hold the elastic gore and furnish a guide to set the
front and back of the upper against, as set forth.
Second. The platform A in combination with the clamps c, c, or their
equivalents, made to receive the shoe lining and hold it in its adjusted
position while the edges are being creased and folded, as described.
Third. The guide clamp C, or its equivalent, made and combined with
the platform A to hold the elastic gore and furnish a guide to set the
front and back of the upper against, as set forth.
Fourth. The press plates d, d, or their equivalent, made and combined
with the platform A. to press the gore, the lining, the upper, or either of
them together, as described, for the purpose specified.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Frederick John Chcesbrough in the Great Seal
Patent Office on the 11th October 1873.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, FREDERICK
JOHN CHEESBROUGH, of the Office for Patents, 15, Water Street,
Liverpool, in the County of Lancaster, Consulting Engineer, send
greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Twenty-second day of April, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-three, in the thirty-
sixth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors,
give and grant unto me, the said Frederick John Cheesbrough, Her
special licence that I, the said Frederick John Cheesbrough, my exe-
cutors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Frederick
John Cheesbrough, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at
any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times
thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might
make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention
for "AN IMPROVED MACHINE FOR FITTING THE ELASTIC GORES IN GAITER SHOES,"
a communication to me from abroad by Joseph Walden, of the City
of Newark, in the County of Essex, State of New Jersey, United States
of America, upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said
Frederick John Checsbrough, my executors or administrators, by an

page_text: instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals,
should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Inven-
tion, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause
the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar
months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Frederick John Cheesbrough, do
hereby declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in
and by the following statement, reference being had to the annexed
Drawing, in which Figure 1 is a perspective view of the whole of the
said machine taken from the front right-hand corner, and Figure 2 is a
perspective view of a part of the said machine taken from the rear left-
hand corner thereof, showing the construction of the back and upper
part of the machine. Similar letters of reference represent corresponding
parts of the different Figures composing the Drawing.
To ascertain exactly the nature and extent of this Invention, and
before describing the construction and operation of the machine, it is
necessary to state the work it is intended to do, and to explain how
that work is done on the said machine.
In the manufacture of gaiter shoes the various parts of the body
or upper of the shoc arc first cut to the desired form, and are then
fitted and stuck together with gum, preparatory to stitching them.
In fitting the different parts of the shoe together by hand the work-
man usually commences by folding over the edges of the top of the
lining and around the opening made in the side to receive the clastic
gore that distinguishes this variety of shoc. After these edges are folded
the face of the fold, or as much of it as may be necessary, is covered with
gum; the edges of the elastic gore are then laid upon the folds and
the edges of the upper, that is the leather or outside of the shoe, upon
the elastic gore, the edges of which, or of the leather, being first gummed,
The several parts are then pressed together with sufficient force to make
them adhere to one another. Instead, however, of gumming the folds
of the lining, or the edges of the outside or upper, perhaps the better
practice is to gum both sides of the edges of the gore, which very much
facilitates the work of fitting in case proper means be provided for
gumming. This work of fitting and sticking together the several parts

page_text: doing of this work by macumery.
the agency of a machine consisting of four principal parts.
First. A grooved plate illustrated in the Drawing by A.
Second. A pair of clamps, illustrated by c, c.
Third. A guide clamp illustrated by C.
Fourth. A pair of press plates shown by d, d.
"
The functions of the plate A are first to serve as a platform, upon
which all the work is done; second to indicate the position in which
the different sized linings are to be placed preparatory to folding the
edges; third to facilitate the folding after the lining has been placed in
position and secured by the clamps c, c. This plate is secured upon a
table B raised high enough to bring it within convenient reach of the
operator, the table making a platform to hold the work to be fitted.
The position in which the different sized linings are to be placed on the
plate A is indicated by the grooves a, a, which are cut at an angle to
cach other to correspond with the angle of the gore, which should be
the same in all sizes, the space between the grooves decreasing in width
as the size decreases in number, and vice versa, or the positions of the
different sized linings may be more accurately indicated by the index cut
in the face of the plate between the grooves a, a, numbered from nine to
thirteen of children, and from one to eleven of adults, as shown in the
Drawing, the lining being shoved back on the plate until the edge of
the gore opening laps in over the grooves far enough to form the fold,
or until the top of the lining comes even with the figure in the index;
indicating the proper size. The edge of the lining is then raised up by
forcing the fabric in the said grooves with a thin, flat, blunt pointed
instrument called a creaser. The edges are then turned over on the
crease completing the fold. By these means, if the different sized linings
bo always placed on the same corresponding part of the plate the size
of the gore opening in the different sized shoes will be all the same.
From this it will appear that these grooves. form and include a scale of
sizes. They mark the place where the crease is to be made, making the
gore opening of the several sizes always the same, and they facilitate the
turning of the fold; indeed they alone make it possible to accurately
turn the folds straight and of equal width. The function of the clamp

page_text: c, c, is merely to hold the lining in position while the edges of the gore
opening are being creased and folded. The function of the guide clamp
C is to hold the gore in position after it has been placed on the folds of
the lining, and to furnish a stop or guide to lay the upper or outside of
the shoc against when it is placed in position upon the gore; and the
function of the press plates d, d, is to press the several parts together
with sufficient force to make them adhere. The press plates d, d, and
guide clamp C are hinged the plate A, the clamp being set between
the press plates and held when up in the position shown in the Drawing
by means of a spring e. The press plates d, d, are operated either by
the hand, or by means of a treadle G connected to the back and rear end
of the plate by means of a bracket P, and a rod r in the manner shown
by the Drawing. The clamps c, c, are also operated either by hand, or
through the agency of the treadle G. The binge pin of the plates d, d,
passes through the arms o, o, reaching back to receive the pin and embrace
both sides of the plates d, d. The rear ends of these arms o, o, extend back
beyond the hinge pin and are connected by means of a rod m, against
the under side of which a spring s is made to press and force the clamps
down upon the face of the plate A to hold the lining. The
of the arms o, o, act as levers, the fulcrums of which is the hinge pin.
The springs is secured in a bracket bolted to the rear end of the plate
A and is adjusted by means of a set screw, as shown. Now, after the
press plates d, d, are raised up to the position shown in the Drawing
the clamps c, c, are raised by pressing upon the treadle G, which brings
the bracket P against the cross bar m, the spring s forcing them down,
as soon as the power is removed from the treadle.
rear ends
In operating the machine the press plates d, d, and guide clamp C
are first raised to the position shown in the Drawing. The clamps c, c,
are then raised as above described. The lining of a shoe, say number 6,
is then shoved under the clamp c, c, until the inside edge of the gore
opening laps in over the grooves a, a, far enough to form the fold. The
bottom edge of the gore opening. is then turned over. The inside edges
are then pressed in the grooves and folded over on the crease. The
clastic gore is then laid on the folds and the guide clamp brought down
to hold it in position, leaving a parallel margin of the fold on each side
of the clamp about a quarter of an inch wide. The back edge of the
front upper is then laid on the fold against the front side of the clamp,
and the front edge of the back upper against the back side of the said
clamp on the fold. The press plates are then brought down, forcing the

page_text: several parts together with sufficient force to make them stick, always
assuming, of course, that the edges of the gore or of the lining and upper
having been duly gummed, as above described.
To adjust the plate A to correspond with the elastic goring of different
angles, or in other words, to vary the angle of the grooves a, a, with
reference to each other, and to increase or decrease the space between
them, the bed plate A is sometimes made in two parts, and divided as
shown by the dotted line H, which of course makes it necessary to divide
the guide clamp C also. The plate being then arranged on a table and
held together and shifted by any satisfactory means of adjustment.
Having now.described the construction and operation of this Invention
to which is given the name of "Walden's gore fitting machine," I
beg to state that I disclaim all other gore fitting machines now in use,
but what I claim as the Invention communicated to me by my foreign
correspondent is as follows :-
First. A plate A made to mark the position in which the lining is to
be placed thereon to be folded and made with the aid of a folder to
fold the edges around the gore opening, substantially as described.
Secondly. A plate A made substantially as described in combination
with a clamp or clamps, arranged to receive the shoe lining and hold
it in its adjusted position on the said plate while the edges are being
creased and folded, as described.
Thirdly. A tapering guide clamp made and combined with the plate
A to hold the elastic goring and furnish a guide to set the front and
back of the different sized uppers against as set forth.
Fourthly. A press plate combined with the plate A to press the
goring, the lining, and the upper, or either two of them, together, as
described for the purpose specified.
In witness whereof, I, the said Frederick John Checsbrough, have
hereunto set my hand and seal, this Tenth day of October, in
the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-
three.
FREDERICK JOHN (L.S.) CHEESBROUGH.