Year: 1887

page_text: Date of Application, 22nd Aug., 1857
Complete Specification Left, 12th May, 1888
Complete Specification Accepted, 22nd Aug., 188
I, ERNEST DE PASS, of 68 Fleet Street, in the City of London, Fellow of the
Institute of Patent Agents, do hereby declare the nature of said Invention, to be as
follows
This invention has for its object improvements in the manufacture of hats by
mechanical means, in substitution, with economy and advantage, of hand labour.
In carrying out the invention the following set of tools or apparatus is used, the
parts of which constitute a whole concurring to the same result.
That part of the mechanism which is in the first instance traversed by the bells or
shapes issuing from the dyeing process has for its object to stretch the brim. The
bell or shape, subjected to the action of steam, is placed upon the lower part of the
stretching mechanism, care being taken to fold the brim down upon say eight flaps or
wings; it is fixed thereon by means of a metal frame which at the same time elongates
the opening for the head; the upper part of the mechanism which is provided with
eight counterparts is then brought over, and a pressure screw causes this upper part
to descend, thus stretching the brim.
The upper part may be mounted upon two small pillars provided with springs. The
counterparts are mounted so as to slide in order to be capable of moving to and from
the banding point according as small or large brims are required to be stretched.
The dressing tool or machine serves to form the hat.
The second mechanism is the ironer which, as its name indicates, serves to iron
the hat.
Lastly, a shaping tool or machine completes ths shaping of the hat brim which on
issuing from this machine is completely finished.
The dressing mechanism is composed essentially of a system or set of frames termed
apparatus which grips the hat by its brim and holds it thus above a closed chamber
into which steam is admitted, while a block is thrust inside the hat by means of a
pressure screw. This mechanism consists as above stated of two frames which, for
purposes of description I will call 1 and 2, each of which is provided with an opening

page_text: whose shape is exactly that of the opening of the hat. The first frame turns relatively
to the second upon a hinge, and for this purpose it is provided with a handle which, on
being gripped, causes the frame to turn upon its hinge and the apparatus to be then
open. The hat is introduced by its tip end into the opening of frame 2 so that the
brim of said hat may rest upon the edges of the frame, then frame 1 is turned over
upon the second and they are both firmly locked together, which is effected by any
suitable means, as for instance by a cam-lever, or by a screw furnished with a handle,
the shank of said screw entering a fork formed integrally with frame 1. The brim is
thus properly gripped and fixed between the two frames. A block is then introduced
into the machine and pressed down by a screw and hand-wheel, subsequently to steam
having been admitted under the hat through a tap.
In order to stop, at a suitable moment, the screw and its hand wheel, a regulating
nut is adjusted in position beforehand, by means of a set screw, whose extremity travels
in the path of the said screw. This screw is in a piece with frame 2 and hence follows
all its motions. The frame 2 is balanced by a counterweight.
When the block is thus introduced into the hat the two frames and the press are
turned, as a whole, upon an axis, this operation being facilitated by the above
mentioned counterweight. When the frames are brought into the position above
indicated they rest upon supports. In order that the brim of the hat, whatever
may be its thickness, should be suitably gripped between the frames 1 and 2, spiral
springs and nuts are provided which allow, by means of a suitable adjustment, the
pressure of the springs to be varied according to the thickness of the brim of the hat
being manufactured.
When it is desired to stretch the opening of manufactured hats the apparatus is
changed. There is an apparatus for each size of opening. They can be substituted
one for the other upon the machine with the greatest ease.
By this means a brim is obtained which is thoroughly well pressed up to
the banding point, that is to say as far as the intersection of the lining with
the brim.
The ironing machine or mechanism consists essentially of a lathe upon the spindle
of which is mounted the hat which therefore turns in front of an iron supported
as hereinafter described. For this purpose the hat is mounted upon its block and this
latter is fixed upon the lathe spindle, the block carrying a piece for the purpose. The
nose or extremity of the lathe enters a cylinder and fills it up. At the same time a
hook fixed in the lathe spindle enters an opening. A slight rotary motion is then
imparted to the block, relatively to the spindle, until the shank of the hook abuts
against the extremity of the opening. There remains nothing more to be done but to
pass through the whole a pin which enters an opening and a hole, which latter, at this
moment, is presented in front of the said opening. The block cannot now continue to
turn relatively to the lathe spindle, and the hook prevents it from taking up a
horizontal motion relatively to this same spindle. Both are thus caused to move
together.
The iron holder is provided with friction rollers and is guided in its motion by an
angle piece whose shape corresponds with that to be given to the hat. The position
of the iron on the holder is adjusted by means of a crank handle and a screw traversing
a block or nut. The characteristic feature of this arrangement is that the pressure of
the iron upon the hat is not operated by means of a spring, as formerly, but by means
of a counter weight. For this purpose the spindle upon which the iron is placed may,
for instance, be curved, it may oscillate upon an axis, and at its lower extremity a
counterweight is suspended. This latter tends to cause the spindle to turn upon its
axis and the iron to bear constantly upon the hat.
The hat after having passed through the dressing and ironing mechanism has only
to be subjected to the shaping operation in order to be completely finished.
The shaping machine, screw-press, or mechanism, which has for its object to raise
the brim consists essentially of two cylinders sliding one within the other and arranged
in such a manner that the upper cylinder when descending compresses an elastic
pocket, filled with water, and presses the same down upon the brim of the hat. The

page_text: hat having been arranged in position a pressure screw is caused to descend upon
a cylinder surrounding the hat. The said elastic pocket, filled with water, loses its
shape and its upper parts are raised over the brim. The motion of the screw being
continued abutting pieces depress elastic blades or springs, so that rods by yielding
immediately to the energetic action of spiral springs are immediately shifted, while
converging towards the axis of the machine and push plates moving with the moveable
system or arrangement. At the same time these plates draw away, in this convergent
motion, other plates which carry sliding pieces moving upon brackets and stop finally,
in resting places. The cylinder surrounding the hat is thus thoroughly locked. At
the same time another cylinder descends into its envelope and the result of the whole
of these motions is that the aforesaid upper parts of the elastic pocket are perfectly
brought over the brim of the hat which is thus raised with a perfection not hitherto
atiainable.
When the operation is terminated the spiral springs are re-set by drawing out
forks in order to remove them from the centre until the elastic blades or springs
have dropped into their notches, the screw press is then raised, the last named
cylinder rising under the action of springs when a similar series of operations
recommences.

page_text: Improvements in the manufacture or nats and apparatus пететот.
1, ERNEST DE PASS, of 68 Fleet Street, in the City of London, Fellow of the
Institute of Patent Agents, do hereby declare the nature of this invention, and in
what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement (reference being had to the accompanying drawings
and to the letters and figures marked thereon) that is to say :-
This invention has for its object improvements in the manufacture of hats by
mechanical means, in substitution of hand labour, with economy and advantage.
In carrying out this invention the following set of tools or apparatus is used, the
parts of which constitute a whole concurring to the same result.
The accompanying drawings represent, by way of example, the essential arrange-
ments of this mechanism.
Figs. 1, 2x 3 and 4* fully illustrate that part of the mechanism which is in the
first instance traversed by the bells or shapes issuing from the dyeing process, and
which serves to stretch the brims.
The bell or shape, subjected to the action of steam, is placed upon the lower part of
the stretching mechanism m. The latter is composed of a crown surrounded by a
certain number of wings or flaps, (8 for example) formed by semi-cylinders or
cylindrical sectors, their convex surface directed towards the top. The brim of the hat n
is placed down upon the eight wings or flaps. The said hat is fixed upon the piece m,
by means of a metal frame which elongates at the same time the opening for the head.
The above mechanism being thus arranged, the upper part of the mechanism o,
consisting of $ counterparts, or rounded wedges (fig. 3×), is placed upon the hat,
these counter parts or wedges being located in the intervals formed between the wings
or flaps and causing the brim of the hat to form waves or corrugations as particularly
shewn in fig. 5*. A block is placed inside the hat. Pressure is applied upon the
upper part or crown o of the counterparts or wedges by means of a pressure screw as
clearly shown. The upper part o may be mounted upon or guided by two. rods or
columns as shewn in fig. 1, provided with springs s which will push the piece o up
to a certain height above the hat, as soon as the pressure screw is raised or removed.
The second mechanism, the characteristic arrangements of which are shewn in
fig. 2, is the ironer which, as its name implies, serves to iron the hat.
Lastly, a shaping tool or machine completes the shaping of the hat brim which, on
issuing from this machine, is completely finished.
The dressing mechanism shewn in figs. 1, 1 & 2 consists essentially of a system or
set of frames termed "dressing apparatus" which grips the hat by its brin and
holds it thus upon a closed chamber into which steam is admitted, while a block
is thrust inside the hat by means of a pressure screw.
This mechanism consists, as above stated, of two frames 1 and 2, each of which is
provided with an opening whose shape is exactly that of the opening of the hat. The
first frame turns relatively to the second upon a hinge 3.
For this purpose it is

page_text: provided with a handle which is clearly shewn in the drawings. By gripping the
frame 1 by its handle it is caused to turn upon its hinge. The apparatus is then
open as is distinctly shewn on the right of the figure.
The bat is introduced by its tip end into the opening of frame 2, so that the brim
of said hat may rest upon the edges of the frame, then frame 1 is turned over upon
the second, and they are both firmly locked together, which is effected by any suitable
means, as for instance by a cam lever, or by a screw furnished with a handle 4 the
The brim of
shank of which passes through a fork 5 formed integrally with frame 1.
the hat is thus properly gripped and fixed between the two frames.
introduced into the machine and is pressed down by a screw and a hand wheel 7, after
the steam has been admitted under the hat, through the tap S.
A block 6 is then
In order to stop at a suitable moment the screw and its hand-wheel, a regulating
nut 9 is adjusted in position beforehand by means of a set screw 10 whose extremity
travels in the path of the said screw. This screw is connected with the frame 2 and
hence follows all its motions and is reversed with it, as is seen on the left side.
This frame 2 is balanced by a counterweight 11ª.
When the block thus introduced into the hat, the two frames and the press are
turned as a whole upon the axis 11, as seen on the left of the drawing, this operation
being facilitated by the above mentioned counterweight 11".
When the frames are brought into the position, above indicated, they rest upon
supports 12. In order that the brim of the hat, whatever may be its thickness, may
be suitably gripped between the frames 1 and 2, spiral springs 13 and nuts 14 are
provided which allow, by means of a suitable adjustment, the pressure of the springs
being varied according to the thickness of the briin of the hat being manufactured.
When it is desired to stretch the opening of manufactured hats, the "dressing
apparatus or set of frames is changed. There is such an apparatus for each size
of opening. They can be substituted one for the other upon the machine with the
greatest case.
"2
By this means a brim is obtained which is thoroughly well pressed up to the
banding point, that is to say as far as the intersection of the lining with the brim.
The machine shewn in perspective view in fig. 1 consists of two steam pots, two
frames or dressing apparatus D D working alternatively on each steam pot, so that
four operations can be carried on simultaneously, the machine being thus quadruple
in its action.
A hat is fixed upon one of the said frames or dressing apparatus, while the other
frame, with its hat, is placed upon the steam pot. The machine is shewn in side
elevation and plan in figs. 1 and 2 and has a frame on the right and a frame on the
left operating alternatively upon one steam pot.
The ironing machine or mechanism consists essentially of a lathe, upon the spindle
of which is mounted the hat which therefore turns in front of an iron, as hereinafter
indicated. For this purpose the hat is supported upon its block and this latter is
fixed upon the lathe spindle in the following manner: the block carries, for this
purpose, a piece which is specially shewn in figs. 4, 5 and 6. The nose or extremity
of the lathe enters the cylinder 1 and fills it. At the same time the hook 2, fixed
on the lathe spindle enters an opening 3. A slight rotary motion is then imparted
to the block relatively to the spindle until the shank of the hook abuts against the
extremity of the opening. There remains nothing more to be done but to pass
through the whole a pin which enters the opening 4 and the hole 5, which latter at
this moment comes in front of the said opening. This may be assumed on reference
to figs. 5 and 6. The block cannot now continue to turn relatively to the lathe
spindle, and the hook prevents it taking up a horizontal motion relatively to this
same spindle both are thus caused to move together.
The iron holder shewn in figs. 2 and 3 is composed generally of a lathe upon whose
axis is mounted the hat rotating in front of an iron, carried in the manner hereinafter
described. The iron holder shewn in fig. 2 is provided with rollers 5 which enable it
to roll upon the working bench or table when the same is being moved about the hat.
It is guided in its motion by an angle piece or bar fixed upon the table and whose

page_text: shape corresponds to that of the hats which have to be ironed. When the iron holder
is carried along this bar or guide, it is brought successively upon the bottom or upon
the cylindrical part of the hat. The iron is carried vertically by the rod or spindle 3,
over which it is passed. In the drawing the face of the iron is turned to the left
hand side of the sheet. At the beginning of the operation the iron is brought into
contact with the hat. For this purpose the spindle 3 is caused to move forward or
backward by means of a hand wheel 7 and by a screw 1 traversing the core or block 2.
The rod or spindle 3 is suspended in a forked piece 8, and is capable of oscillating
upon an axis 4, passing through the said piece. Let it be supposed that the face of
the iron is perpendicular to the plane of the drawing and the hat rotating around a
horizontal axis is also perpendicular to the plane of the drawing. The hat turning in
front of the iron not being a cylinder of circular section, but having rather the form
of a straight cylinder with an oval curve for its base, the result is that the iron is
pushed back by the hat at unequal distances from the axis of rotation. If the iron
were held in contact with the hat by a spiral spring such spring would become either
elongated or shortened and hence the pressure exerted by this spring upon the iron
and upon the hat might be considerably greater in the second than in the first case,
and defects in the manufacture might result therefrom. Such defects are remedied
by using instead of a spring a counterweight C, fixed upon the lower and bent
extremity of the angle piece or bar oscillating about the horizontal axis 4. The action
of this counterweight is to press the iron against the hat and such pressure varies but
very little while the hat turns, that is to say, the iron is in turn at a greater or less
distance from the axis of rotation of the hat.
The hat, after having passed through the dressing and ironing mechanism, has only
to be subjected to the shaping operation to be completely finished.
The shaping machine, screw-press, or mechanism has for its object to raise the brim.
The principle arrangements of this mechanism are shewn by way of example in
figs. 7 7 8 and 8*. It consists essentially of two cylinders 14 and 15 sliding one
within the other, and arranged in such a manner that the upper cylinder, when
descending, compresses an elastic pocket or pouch filled with water which is pressed
down upon the brim of the hat. The hat having been arranged in position, as shewn
in the drawing, a pressure screw 1 is caused to descend upon the cylinder 2 surrounding
the hat. The elastic pocket or pouch 3, filled with water, loses its shape and the
portions or parts 4 are raised over the brim. The motion of the screw being continued,
abutting pieces 5 depress elastic blades or springs 6 which may assume one of the
three positions shewn at A B C in fig. 10 so that the rods 7 are shifted under the
action of the spiral springs 8 as follows.
In fig. 7 it is assumed that the springs 8 are compressed and the rod 7. is pushed
out as far as possible from the axis of the machine, while in fig. 8 it is supposed, on
the contrary, that the springs S have acted, and hence the end of the rod 7 terminated
by the fork 16, has returned into the spring box. The top of this spring bears upon
a pin passing through the rod 7. As soon as the latter is free to move, the spring S
will expand and push the said rod as described. These rods converge towards the
axis of the machine, and operate the plates 9. 9. forming part of the moveable system
or arrangement hereinafter described.
Fig. 8 is a plan of this machine, shewing the plates 9 9. 10. 10 receded from the
axis. This moveable system comprises the whole of the moveable parts combined with
the rods 7. Assuming the parts to be in the position shewn in fig. 7×, the screw 1 is
then lowered, the abutting pieces 5 then lower the springs or blades 6 which are
respectively fixed to the extremity of the pieces screwed to the rods 7, and as these
rods are constantly pressed or pushed towards the centre of the machine by the spiral
springs 8, directly the blades or springs 6 being lowered can pass under the sunall
fixed cross piece which retains them, they are pushed towards the centre with the
rods 7. All these pieces are therefore pushed towards the centre by the action of
the spiral springs 8. On the edges 12 of the plates 9 bear the pins or studs 11 which
are on the plates 10. When plates 9 are directed towards the centre, being always
"pushed by the springs 8, the studs 11 are forced to slide on the edges 12 and finally

page_text: o fall into the notches 13, as shewn in fig. 8. During this movement the plates 10, 10,
ntegral respectively with the studs, have been obliged to approach the centre like
he plates 9, 9, so that the cylinder 2 becomes gripped on all sides by the action of
he springs S. At the same time the cylinder 14 descends into its jacket 15 and the
result of the whole of these motions is that the portions 4 of the elastic pocket or
bouch are brought exactly over the brim of the hat which is thus raised with a
perfection not hitherto attainable.
To disengage the hat the rods 7 are pulled out so as to bring them back into their
primitive position, the plates 9. 9 forming part of the said rods then return backward
and the plates 10. 10 resume automatically their first position by the action of the
springs.
When the operation is terminated, the spiral springs 8 are reset by drawing out the
forks 16 in order to remove them from the centre until the elastic blades or springs 6
have dropped into their notch as shewn in Fig. 10 the screw press is then raised, the
cylinder 14 rising under the action of the springs 17 (see fig. 9), when a similar series
of operations recommences.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the invention and
what manner the same may be performed, I claim, as communicated to me by my
foreign correspondent.
1. The novel arrangement of mechanism for stretching the brims of hats, constructed
and operating substantially as hereinbefore described, and as shewn with reference to
figs. 1× 2× 3× 4 and 1ª of the drawings.
2. In hat dressing machines, the apparatus consisting of two frames arranged and
operating substantially as herein before described, and as shewn with reference to the
annexed drawings.
3. In hat dressing machines, the use of a stop picce (such as 10) regulatable at will,
for the purpose of limiting the descending movement of the press or machine.
4. In hat dressing machines, the use of the springs 13, or their equivalent, whose
pressure is regulatable at will according to the thickness of the brims of the hats.
5. In hat ironing machines, the arrangement for fixing the block on the nose of
the lathe, substantially as hereinbefore described, and as shewn with reference to the
accompanying drawings.
6. In hat ironing machines, the use of a counterweight for the purpose of keeping
the iron applied against the hat.
7. The improved shaping machine in which the pressure of the brims is ensured by
a system or arrangement of plates folding down the elastic pocket on the brims of the
hats whilst the said pocket presses such brims from below, the whole constructed and
operating substantially as herein before described, and as shewn with reference to the
annexed drawings.
S. The special arrangements substantially as hereinbefore described, and as shewn
by way of example in the accompanying drawings.
31000