Improvements in Sewing and Embroidering Machines.
Year: 1887

page_text: Date of Application, 14th Nov., 1887
Complete Specification Left, 14th Aug., 1888
Complete Specification Accepted, 19th Oct., 1888
Improvements in Sewing and Embroidering Machines.
I, EMILE CORNELY 87 Faubourg St. Denis Paris Manufacturer do hereby declare
the nature of this invention to be as follows:
-
This Invention relates to improvements in Sewing and Embroidering machines.
In the specification to Letters Patent No. 3456 of July 13th 1883 a cutting apparatus
is described and claimed in connection with a sewing or Embroidering machine for
cutting each loop or thread after it has been drawn above the cloth by the hook or the
needle of the machine whereby a velvet like Embroidery is obtained. There has been
a great difficulty in removing the cut ends or their fibres from the scissors of the said
cutting apparatus so as to prevent them from coming in contact with the material, as
the latter could not be cleared of them entirely chiefly on work with silk thread.
The present invention has for its object to remove the said fibres from the needle and
the cutters in such a manner that they cannot come in contact with the material and
it consists in a pair of oscillating plyers which seize each loop while it is cut by the
scissors and which carry it from the needle to a tube or receptacle wherein the plyers
open and drop the cut end so that it will never come in contact with the material.
In the accompanying drawings
Fig. 1 represents an elevation of the machine.
Fig. 2 horizontal view of the head of the machine and of the levers which operate
the oscillating plyers, and
Figs. 3 & 4 front views of the machine.
The other figures are detached views hereafter to be referred to.
A bevel pinion W (fig. 1) is secured to the main shaft. A of the machine and gears
into the cogged wheel S which is secured to a vertical shaft and which operates the
crank F the pitman I and the lever K (figs. 1, 2 & 3). The lever K turns loosely
on the shaft L which can turn in its bearings N; a short shaft 9 is adjusted
within a proper bearing of the lever K and can slide therein vertically, it is supported
by a friction galley h, which turns on a stud at the lower part of the shaft 9 and the
galley glides on the circumference of a circular cam O when the lever K is operated

page_text: by the crank F. This latter being shorter than lever K the latter describes a part
of a circle in an oscillating motion. The upper end of the shaft q is secured to the
double sleeve P by means of a screw a, and the upper end of the shaft L is also
secured to said sleeve by means of the pin c. Thus the lever K by its oscillating
motion imparts the same motion to the shaft L and the galley 7 rising during said
motion on the incline m of cam 0 (figs. 3 & 4) imparts to shaft L at a certain
moment a rising motion and again a descending motion by the action of the spring n.
The plyers for removing the cut threads from the needle are secured to a shaft L, or
for convenience of the operator to a sleeve R which is secured to shaft L by means of
the screw g². The plyers Q and the operating organs of the machine are represented
in full size in figs. 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 & 10. In which p represents the scissors for cutting
the threads described and shown in the Specification letters Patent No. 3456 of 1883.
is the nipple in which the needle hook plays and M the feed surface of the machine.
The plyers consist of a plate Q which is rigidly secured to the sleeve R or to shaft L,
to this plate is attached a fan Z which can turn on the stud of plate Q and the shank
of which is pressed by the spring S against the stud 3 of plate Q. The plate Q and
the fan Z constitute therefore one of the jaws of the plyers, the other jaw U can turn
loosely on the sleeve R but is pressed against the jaw Z by the action of spring g
which is wound on the sleeve R and the end of which is secured in the jaw U.
Fig. 7, 8, 9 & 10 represent the plyers in their different positions. In Fig. 7 the
jaw U leans against the nipple v, at this moment the scissors p commence their closing
movement to cut the needle thread and the jaw Z commences its motion against the
jaw U to close upon the cut thread which it seizes and carries in the direction of the
arrow to the position shown in fig. 8. In its course from position fig. 7 to that of
fig. 8 the shaft Land consequently the plyers make the rising movement described
above and the screw of the jaw U strikes against the lower rounded end of the
latch y which is hinged at 7 to the frame of the machine and which is guided in its
motion by a stud entering in its slot 4. The latch y is pressed downward by the
action of spring 5. The screw upon striking against the latch y raises it to the
position represented in fig. 6 and passes right under and behind it to the position
shown in fig. 8. At this point commences the return motion of shaft L in which the
jaw U strikes again the latch y (fig. 9) and is retained by the latter while the jaw Z
continues its return motion, thus the plyers open and drop the cut thread which they
have carried to said position. This opening of the plyers takes place while they are
within the mouth of a tube or a receptacle w (figs. 1, 3, 4, 5) and a blast of air
arriving through the tube 6 and passing into the tube or receptacle w effectually
chases away each cut thread as soon as the plyers have opened and prevents any of
them from coming in contact with the material. The plyers remain open until the
shaft L by its descending motion by the action of the spring n has lowered the stud
below the latchy when the jaw U will again close upon the jaw Z and they both
continue their return motion in the direction of the arrows figs. 9 and 10 until the
jaw Z strikes again the nipple r, at that moment the jaw Z is turned inward on its
stud to pass around the nipple (fig. 10) and the shaft L continuing its
motion finally brings the plyers to the position represented in fig. 7 for the next
operation.
In fig. 11 I have represented the plate Q of the plyers provided with a brush
instead of the jaw Z, by which the above apparatus is simplified the brush in
this case is not intended to remove the fibres from the needle by means of a
brushing action but must be considered as an elastic-jaw which presses the cut
thread against the jaw U and which on its return motion can easily pass around the
nipple (fig. 10) by reason of its elasticity and I have represented it to show that the
construction of the plyers may be modified in various ways.
In threading the machine as in removing the work it becomes necessary to raise
the feed M of the machine which is done by means of the lever T (fig. 4) which
raises the feed bar or the slide H to which the feed M is connected. But in raising
the feed M the plyers Q which are close to it will also be raised together with
their shaft L should the operator by inadventure set the machine in motion while

page_text: the feed M and the plyers are
machine will get out of order.
descend automatically when the
raised the latter will be bent or broken and the
To prevent any such accident the feed M must
machine is set in motion. This done by means of
a lever 10 which is pivoted at 11 (fig. 1, 2 4) to the side of the frame of the machine;
its lower end is curved and is in contact with the lever T when the latter is raised
(figs. 4, 4º).
When the machine is set in motion the projection 12 of pitman I (figs. 1 and 2)
strikes against the lever 10 and pushes it from the right to left and by said move-
ment the lower curved part of said lever acts on the lever T and the feed Mis
brought down by its feed spring and the shaft L and its plyers by the action of the
spring n.
Tatal : Th
.

page_text: 1, EMILE CORNELY, of 87 Faubourg St. Denis, Paris Manufacturer do hereby
declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:-
This Invention relates to Improvements in Sewing and Embroidering Machines. In
the specification to Letters Patent No. 3456 of July 13th 1883 a cutting apparatus is
described and claimed in connection with a sewing or embroidering machine for cutting
each loop or thread after it has been drawn above the cloth by the hook or the needle of
the machine whereby a velvet like embroidery is obtained. There has been a great
difficulty in removing the cut ends or their fibres from the scissors of the said cutting
apparatus so as to prevent them from coming in contact with the material, as the latter
could not be cleared of them entirely chiefly on work with silk thread. The present
invention has for its object to remove the said fibres from the needle and the cutters
in such a manner that they cannot come in contact with the material and it consists
in a pair of oscillating plyers which seize each loop while it is cut by the scissors and
which carry it from the needle to a tube or receptacle wherein the plyers open and
drop the cut end so that it will never come in contact with the material.
Referring to the drawings left with the Provisional Specification and to the accom-
panying sheet of Drawings.
Figure 1 represents an elevation of the machine.
Figure 2 horizontal view of the head of the machine and of the levers which operate
the oscillating plyers, and
Figures 3 and 4 front views of the machine.
The other figures are detached views hereafter to be referred to.
A bevel pinion W (fig. 1) is secured to the main shaft A of the machine and gears
into the cogged wheel S which is secured to a vertical shaft and which operates the
crank F the pitman I and the lever K (figs. 1, 2, 3). The lever K turns loosely on
the shaft L which can turn in its bearings N; a short shaft q is adjusted within a
proper bearing of the lever K and can slide therein vertically, it is supported by a
friction galley, which turns on a stud at the lower part of the shaft q and the galley h
glides on the circumference of a circular cam O when the lever K is operated by the
crank F. This latter being shorter than lever K the latter describes a part of a circle
in an oscillating motion. The upper end of the shaft q is secured to the double sleeve P
by means of a screw a, and the upper end of the shaft L is also secured to said sleeve
by means of the pin c. Thus the lever K by its oscillating motion imparts the same
motion to the shaft L and the galley q rising during said motion on the incline m of
cam 0 (figs. 3 and 4) imparts to shaft L at a certain moment a rising motion and
again a descending motion by the action of the spring n. The plyers for removing
the cut threads from the needle are secured to a shaft L or for convenience of the
operator to a sleeve R which is secured to shaft L by means of the screw g². The
plyers and the operating organs of the machine are represented in full size in
figs. 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 & 10. In which p represents the scissors for cutting the threads
described and shown in the Specification to Letters Patent No. 3456 of 1883.
the

page_text: nipple in which the needle hook plays and M the feed surface of the machine. The
plyers consists of a plate Q which is rigidly secured to the sleeve R or to shaft L, to
this plate is attached a jaw Z which can turn on the stud r of plate Q and the shank
of which is pressed by the spring S against the stud 3 of plate Q. The plate Q and
the jaw Z constitute therefore one of the jaws of the plyers, the other jaw U can turn
loosely on the sleeve R but is pressed against the jaw Z by the action of spring
which is wound on the sleeve R and the end of which is secured in the jaw U.
Fig. 7 8, 9, and 10 represent the plyers in their different positions. In fig. 7 the
jaw U leans against the nipple v, at this moment the scissors p commence their closing
movement to cut the needle thread and the jaw Z commences its motion against the
jaw U to close upon the cut thread which it seizes and carries in the direction of the
arrow to the position shown in fig. 8. In its course from position fig. 7 to that of
fig. 8 the shaft L and consequently the plyers make the rising movement described
above and the screw of the jaw U strikes against the lower rounded end of the
latch y which is hinged at 7 to the frame of the machine and which is guided in its
motion by a stud entering in its slot 4. The latch y is pressed downward by the action
of spring 5. The screw upon striking against the latchy raises it to the position
represented in fig. 6 and passes right under and behind it to the position shown in
fig. 8. At this point commences the return motion of shaft L, in which the jaw U
strikes again the latch y (fig. 9) and is retained by the latter while the jaw Z continues
its return motion, thus the plyers open and drop the cut thread which they have carried
to said position. This opening of the plyers takes place while they are within the
mouth of a tube or a receptacle w (figs. 1, 3, 4 and 5) and a blast of air arriving
through the tube 6 and passing into the tube or receptacle we effectually chases away
each cut thread as soon as the plyers have opened and prevents any of them from
coming in contact with the material. The plyers remain open until the shaft L by its
descending motion by the action of the spring n has lowered the stud below the
latch y when the jaw U will again close upon the jaw Z and they both continue their
return motion in the direction of the arrows fig. 9 and 10 until the jaw Z strikes again
the nipple v, at that moment the jaw Z is turned inward on its stud to pass around
the nipple (fig. 10) and the shaft L continuing its motion finally brings the plyers
to the position represented in fig. 7 for the next operation.
In fig. 11 I have represented the plate Q of the plyers provided with a brush instead
of the jaw Z, by which the above apparatus is simplified, the brush in this case is not
intended to remove the fibres from the needle by means of a brushing action but must
be considered as an elastic jaw which presses the cut thread against the jaw U and
which on its return motion can easily pass around the nipple v (fig. 10) by reason of
its elasticity and 1 have represented it to show that the construction of the plyers may
be modified in various ways.
In threading the machine or in removing the work it becomes necessary to raise the
feed M of the machine which is done by means of the lever T (fig. 4) which raises
the feed bar or the slide H to which the feed M is connected. But in raising the
feed M the plyers Q, which are close to it, will also be raised together with their
shaft L should the operator by inadvertence set the machine in motion while the
feed M and the plyers are raised the latter will be bent or broken and the machine will
get out of order. To prevent any such accident the feed M must descend automatically
when the machine is set in motion. This is done by means of a lever 10 which is
pivoted at 11 (fig. 1, 2, 4) to the side of the frame of the machine; its lower end is
curved and is in contact with the lever T when the latter is raised, (figs. 4, 4"). When
the machine is set in motion the projection 12 of pitman I (figs. 1 and 2) strikes
against the lever 10 and pushes it from the right to left and by said movement the
lower curved part of said fever acts on the lever T and the feed M is brought down
by its feed spring and the shaft L and its plyers by the action of the spring n.
The plyers in their movement pass close to the feed M, when this latter is raised
for withdrawing the material it uplifts at the same time the plyers and the shaft L,
and if the machine were to start working at this moment the plyers would be
broken.

page_text: To obviate this defect I have provided an arrangement which prevents the machine
being in gear when the feed is uplifted, see Figures 12, 13 and 14 of the accompanying
sheet of drawing upon which,
H is the slide of the feed M resting on the lever T; a connecting rod E is attached
to this lever and to the arm O fixed to the horizontal shaft V, and at the other end of
this shaft is fixed an arm or lever u.
The machine being at work these pieces are in the position shown Fig. 13,
the lever T and the feed M are down and the lever u disengaged from the
clutch B.
When the machine is stopped the clutch B takes the position Fig. 12.
The fly wheel of the machine which receives the cord or belt from the fly wheel of
the frame is connected with the shaft A by an engaging clutch or coupling of the kind
used in rolling mills.
The disengaging clutch B is provided with a pin which enters the disc t keyed on
the shaft A of the fly.
When this pin is not entered into the disc, that is to say when the clutch B is away
from it, the shaft A¹ turns independently.
If on the contrary the pin of the clutch is united with the disc t the shafts A and A¹
turn together.
The clutch B has therefore a sliding motion from right to left having for object to
effect this union or this separation.
If the lever u, fixed at the end of the shaft V comes between them, as in figures 12
and 14, as the connection cannot take place the disc t turns loosely, although the work-
woman may be turning the fly wheel.
If on the contrary in the pivoting movement effected by the shaft V, the lever u with-
draws from behind the clutch B, this latter engages with the disc t pushed by the
spring and the machine is in gear.
Figure 13 shows it in this position.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is
1. In connection with the cutting apparatus described in the specification to Letters
Patent No. 3456 of 1883 the self acting pair of plyers which seize the cut threads at
the proper moment and bear them into a tube or receptacle wherein they release them
so that they cannot come in contact with the work.
2. The self acting plyers consisting substantially of a plate Q secured to an oscillating
shaft on which one of the jaws is pivotted while the other jaw is loose on the said shaft
and pressed against the former jaw by the action of a spring, substantially as herein
described.
3. In conjunction with the self acting plyers herein described, a blowing apparatus
for chasing the cut fibres from said plyers through a tube or receptacle.
4. The arrangement of lever 10 with the feed lever T and any of the working parts
of the machine for the purpose of lowering the feed automatically on the cloth when
the machine is set in motion.
Dated this Fourteenth day of Anonet 18ee