Year: 1887

page_text: Date of Application, 7th Sept., 1887
Complete Left, 6th June, 1888
Complete Accepted, 6th July, 1888
I, WILLIAM CHARLES ALLDRIDGE of Brearley Street West, Birmingham in the
County of Warwick, Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to
be as follows:-
This invention relates to the well known universal or "Alldridge" studs, composed
essentially of a movable or gyratory stem, or loose back part, arranged in such a
manner, that the stem and front part, admits of altering its position, on the change of
posture of the wearer.
My improvements relate first to studs, having pearl, ivory, or other non-metallic
backs. Secondly, in means of thickening the boundary edges of the hole of the
metallic plate, wherein the stem works.
In carrying out the first part of my invention, I take a pearl, ivory or other
non-metallic back, with its front part slightly sunken, with a recess about its middle,
and with the edges of the said sunken part, undercut; and secured within this sunken
part, is a metallic plate or connection disc, having within its middle, a hemispherical
cup or dome part, of an internal size of about the diameter of the head or lower and
of the stem of the stud.
The bemispherical cup part, is pierced therethrough at its crown, and through
which, the stem passes, while the head as aforesaid, seats itself and works within the
said cup part.
The connection plate is secured in position, by slightly doming it, and then
flattening it out, so as to make its edges take the undercuts in the pearl or
bone back.
The cup wherein the lower end of the revolving stem works, stands above the plane
of the other part.
The plate as aforesaid, may be secured to a non-metallic back, by having a raised
middle part, or stud, raised from the surface of the front, and with the boundary
edges undercut; so that the connection plate which may have a bulbous or convex
middle, is made with its sides box like, which are gathered in, and secured around the
said undercuts.

page_text: Or the edge or periphery of the non-metallic back, may be grooved, and the extreme
boundary edge of the plate, turned or spun into the groove.
These methods of attachments are applicable to all kinds of studs, and like dress
fasteners.
The second part of my invention consists, in thickening the boundary edges of the
holes or piercings, wherein revolving stems work. This is accomplished by
rolling over, inwardly and outwardly, the said raw edges into a roll, beading
or thickening, so as to thereby increase the wear, and also to strengthen the
said holes.
Instead of rolling over the metal, I may compress the metal by dies and tools, into
a solid thickening, produced by first bulging, and then subsequently compressing
the said bulged part, into a thickened ring or rim, forming the edge to a hole or
opening.

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Collar and Shirt Studs and other like Dress
Fasteners.
I, WILLIAM CHARLES ALLDRIDGE of Brearley Street West Birmingham, in the
County of Warwick, Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement:-
This invention relates to the well known universal or "Alldridge" studs, composed
essentially of a movable or gyratory stem, or loose back part, arranged in such a
manner, that the stem and front part, admits of altering its position, on the change of
posture of the wearer.
My improvements relate first to studs, having pearl, ivory, or other non-metallic
backs. Secondly-in means of thickening the boundary edges of the hole of the
metallic plate, wherein the stem works.
In carrying out the first part of my invention, I take a pearl, ivory, or other
non metallic back, with its front part, slightly sunken, with a recess about its middle,
and with the edges of the said sunken part, undercut; and secured within this sunken
part, is a metallic plate or connection disc, having within its middle, a hemispherical
cup or dome part, of an internal size of about the diameter of the head or lower end
of the stem of the stud.
The hemispherical cup part, is pierced therethrough at its crown, and through
which, the stem passes, while the head as aforesaid, seats itself, and works within the
said cup part.
The connection plate secured in position, by slightly doming it, and then
flattening it out, so as to make its edges take the undercuts in the pearl or
bone back.
The cup, wherein the lower end of the revolving stem works, stands above the
plane of the other part.
The plate as aforesaid, may be secured to a non-metallic back, by having a raised
middle part, or stud, raised from the surface of the front, and with the boundary
edges undercut; so that the connection plate, which may have a bulbous or convex
middle, is mado with its sides box like, which are gathered in, and secured around the
said undercuts.
Or the edge or periphery of the non-metallic back, may be grooved, and the extreme
boundary edges of the plate, turned or spun into the groove.
These methods of attachments, are applicable to all kinds of studs, and like dress
fasteners.
The second part of my invention, consists in thickening the boundary edges
of the holes or piercings, wherein revolving stems work. This is accomplishod
by rolling over, inwardly or outwardly, the said raw edges into a roll, beading

page_text: or thickening, so as to thereby increase the wear, and also to strengthen the
said holes.
Instead of rolling over the metal, I may compress the metal, by dies and tools into a
solid thickening, produced by first bulging, and then subsequently compressing the
said bulged part, into a thickened ring or rim, forming the edge to a hole, or
opening.
I will now proceed to describe with reference to the accompanying drawing, the
manner in which the same is to be performed.
Figure 1 represents in front elevation, a revolving stemmed stud, made according to
my invention. Figure 2 represents the same, partly in elevation, and partly in section,
and figure 2 represents a plan of the said figure 1.
a is the head or front part, fixedly secured to the outer end of a revolving or loose
stem b, whose lower end 63, which is enlarged and coned, works and gyrates within
the inside of a hemispherical cup c³, of a connection plate c, secured to a pearl, ivory
or non-metallic back d, by the boundary edges c, of the said connection plate, taking
within the undercut of an annular groove d, made within the top side of the said
non-metallic back.
The revolving or loose stem b, passes through a stem hole c', made through the
crown of the dome c; so that when the stud is in use, the front and back parts as
aforesaid, admit of motion, independent of each other.
Figuro 3 represents a modification of securing the connection plate to the non
metallic back. It will be seen from the said figure, that the boundary edges of the
said plate are turned down, and forced under, an outside undercut part, on the top or
inner sido of the back.
a is the head, b is the stem, with inner expanded and coned end 62, working within
hemispherical cup c². The connection plate c, whose outer boundary edges
are turned over the undercut boundary edges d³, of the non-metallic back d,
thereby connecting the front part, to the pearl, ivory or other non-metallic
back part.
Figure represents a modification of figuro 3, in which the connection plato
is secured to the non-metallic back, near its rim, by forcing the boundary edge
of the plate, into an undercut groove, or its equivalent, at or near the said rim.
Figure 5 represents a stud, with a thickened edged stem hole, which is made
according to a part of this invention.
a is the head of the stud, bis the stem thereof, and c the attachment plate,
with the metal of the inside boundary edging of the stem-hole c*, thickened,
by turning or rolling inwards, the said metal, into a beading or thickened part.
By thickening the edging of the hole as aforesaid, the metal is greatly
strengthened, and prevented from bursting, on undue pulling out of the movable
front part.
The metal of the inside boundary edging of the hole, may be turned into an outwardly
disposed thickening or beading.
Figure 6 represents another form of my invention, in which the thickening at the
stem hole boundary edging is made solid, instead of rolling or folding the metal
inwards or outwards as aforesaid.
In carrying out the thickening process, I raise a suitably shaped blank, into the
form figure 7, with the metal of the boundary edging of the stem hole, bulged
inwards or downwards into a neck, and then by means of tools and pressure, I upset
the said neck part into a thickened and solid inner boundary edging or beading c*, as
represented in figure 6, whereby the said thickening, prevents the wearing away, and
bursting of the metal surrounding the said hole. The thickening or solidifying of the
metal, may come upon the inside or outside, as may be desired.
Although I have represented the thickened inside edges of the stem holes, in
connection with a domed middle connecting plate, yet I wish it to be understood,
that the said thickening of the metal, may be applied to any shaped connection plate
as may be dosired.

page_text: Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said in-
vention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is :-
:-
First. Doming, cupping, or coning outwards, the middles of the connection plates,
of loose stemmed studs, as described and set forth.
Secondly Making the inner attachment ends 62, of the stems of loose or revolving
studs, coned, as described and set forth.
Thirdly. The combination with the cupped middle c³ of a connection plate c, of a
coned stem end 3, as described and set forth.
Fourthly. Securing the connection plate c, of loose stemmed, or revolving studs,
to pearl, ivory or other non-metallic backs, by gathering in the outside boundary edges
or edgings, of the said plates, to a raised undercut top, back or rim part, as set forth
in figures 3 and 4.
Fifthly. Thickening or strengthening the inside boundary edgings or edges of the
stem holes e, of loose or revolving stemmed studs, by rolling or folding the metal of
the said boundary edges, inwards or outwards, into a beading or thickened part, as set
forth in figure 5.
Lastly. Thickening the inside boundary edgings or edges of the stem holes of
loose, or revolving stemmed studs, by upsetting the metal of the said edgings,
into a solid beading or thickened part, substantially as described and set forth.
Dated this Fourth day of June 1888.