Improvements in Coats and like Garments.
Year: 1898

page_text: Improvements in Coats and like Garments.
I, DAVID YOUNG, Patent Agent, of the Firm of D. Young & Co., of 11 and 12,
Southampton Buildings, London, W.C., do hereby declare the nature of this
invention to be as follows:-
The object of this invention is to improve, simplify and cheapen the construc-
tion of garments in respect to the collar portion thereof, and particularly with
regard to waterproof coats or those having more or less india-rubber in their
composition.
It has long been the practice of tailors and others in attaching the collar to
a coat or like garment made of ordinary textile fabrics, to unite the parts by
inclosing a stay piece of bias-cut canvas and by sponging and stretching the back
fabric, fulling the collar fabric, heating, pressing, and stitching them in position,
and otherwise so manipulating the goods as to shape the parts to the peculiar
curves around the shoulders and back of the neck. Such treatment is not
applicable, except to a limited extent, to waterproof fabrics such as are used in
macintosh coats and the like, and even in the ordinary practice of tailors much
of time and labor are required in this portion of their work.
By my improvement I do not attempt to cut the lower curve of the collar
to conform to the upper line of the body of the coat at the neck portion, but
I interpose between them a crescent-shaped piece of fabric similar to them
both and stitch its concave edge to the concave lower edge of the collar fabric
and its convex edge to the upper edge of the body fabric. I invert or turn wrong
side up this interposed piece before stitching through it and the collar along
the concave lines, then turn the said piece right side up, fold back the margins
of the goods taken up by the seam, and run a line of stitches along each side of
the seam, so as to hold such margins down smoothly against the inner face of
their respective fabrics. The curvature of these two parts before being thus
united differs materially, that of the collar being sharper or more concave than
that of the interposed piece and their concave lines being opposed rather than
approximating to each other. Hence when they are united by a seam parallel
with the concave edge of each piece, a rising tendency or, as it is technically
termed, a stand" is given to the collar or the said interposed piece with rela-
tion to each other when straightened out; but when bent to the natural curves

page_text: of the neck and collar of a coat, they take position smoothly and naturally
without coaxing or fitting. The convex edge of the interposed piece is stitched
to the upper edge of the body of the garment. Such piece in practice forms
part of the back of the garment, extending around the back of the neck beneath
the collar, being widest at its centre and tapering gradually to each end. The
collar folds downwardly along the upper line of its junction with the said inter-
posed piece. The velvet or other material forining the upper surface of the
collar may extend at the neck over the double seam at such junction and be
turned under the lower margin thereof.
Thated the 16th day of Annil 1900
D. YOUNG & Co.,
11 and 12, Southampton Buildings, London, W.C.,
Agents for the Applicant.
Improvements in Coats and like Garments.
I, DAVID YOUNG, Patent Agent, of the Firm of D. Young & Co., of 11 and 12,
Southampton Buildings, London, W.C., do hereby declare the nature of this
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-.
The object of this invention is to improve, simplify and cheapen the construc-
tion of garments in respect to the collar portion thereof, and particularly with
regard to waterproof coats or those having more or less of rubber in their
composition.
It has long been the practice of tailors and others in attaching the collar to
a coat or like garment made of ordinary textile fabrics, to unite the parts by
inclosing a stay-piece of bias-cut canvas and by sponging and stretching the back
fabric, fulling the collar fabric, heating, pressing, and stitching them in position,
and otherwise so manipulating the goods as to shape the parts to the peculiar
curves around the shoulders and back of the neck. Such treatment is not
applicable, except to a limited extent, to waterproof fabrics such as are used in
macintosh coats and the like, and even in the ordinary practice of tailors much
of time and labor are required in this portion of their work.
By my improvement I do not attempt to cut the lower curve of the collar
to conform to the upper line of the body of the coat at the neck portion, but
I interpose between them a crescent-shaped piece of fabric similar to them
both and stitch its concave edge to the concave lower edge of the collar fabric
and its convex edge to the upper edge of the body fabric. I invert or turn wrong
side up this interposed piece before stitching through it and the collar along
their concave lines then turn said piece right side up, fold back the margins
of the goods taken up by the seam, and run a line of stitches each side of
the seam, so as to hold such margins down smoothly against the inner face of
their respective fabrics. The curvature of these two parts before being thus
united differs materially, that of the collar being sharper or more concave than
that of the interposed piece and their concave lines being opposed rather than
approximating to each other. Hence when they are united by a seam parallel
with the concave edge of each piece a rising tendency or, as it is technically
termed, a stand" is given to the collar or said interposed piece with rela-
tion to each other when straightened out; but when bent to the natural curves
of the neck and collar of a coat they take position smoothly and naturally
without coaxing or fitting. The convex edge of the interposed piece is stitched
66

page_text: to the upper edge of the body of the garment. Such piece in practice forms
part of the back of the garment, extending around the back of the neck beneath
the collar, being widest at its centre and tapering gradually to each end. The
collar folds downwardly along the upper line of its junction with said inter
posed piece. The velvet or other material forming the upper surface of the
collar may extend at the neck over the double seam at such junction and be
turned under the lower margin thereof.
In the drawings, Figure 1 is a pattern or plan view of the collar and the
interposed piece which is to be stitched thereto, said parts being both shown
with their right side or outer face upward. Figure 2 shows said parts as first
brought together, the interposed piece with its wrong side or inner face upward
and laid upon the collar ready to be stitched when their two concave edges are
made to coincide. Figure 3 is a central transverse section on the line 33 of
Figure 2 of said parts united; and Figure 4 is a similar view, the interposed
piece being turned back and double-seamed. Figures 5 and 6 are respectively
outside and inside views of the upper part of the coat, illustrating the position
of the interposed piece. Figures 7 and are perspective sections showing the
collar up and down and provided with its velvet cover.
A represents the body of the coat, B the collar thereof, and C the interposed
crescent-shaped piece.
D is the seam along which the collar is secured to said piece, so as to shape
the garment properly over the shoulders and back of the neck without hot press-
ing stretching, or like manipulation.
The edges of the collar and interposed piece, which are to be united in the
seam Dd, are according to my method concaved reversely, the same side of the
goods being supposed to be uppermost in both, as seen in Figure 1. Their
adjacent concave edges are to be drawn together, so that in use the right side of
the fabric is presented outwardly and there is a proper stand of the collar
relative to the back, of which the interposed piece becomes a part, and so that
the collar will fold down properly in its double curves over said piece. To best
accomplish the union of these parts, I lay the piece C upside down, the wrong
side of the goods outward, upon the collar B and unite their concave edges in
the seam D parallel and near to such edges, bending the piece C to a somewhat
sharper curvature meanwhile to make it exactly coincide edgewise with the collar.
Then I turn back the piece C into approximately the same plane as the collar,
open and press down the margins of fabric united by the seam D and form a line
of stitches each side of the first seam and through the goods and said margins
to make the joint as smooth as possible. The turning back of the piece C gives
it a stand in a different plane from the collar, which had a different curvature,
and gives the desired smoothness of roll to the collar under the conditions of use.
The interposed piece loses in the garment the character of a crescent and appears
as if bounded by two convex curves. (See Figures 5 and 6.)
The body of the garment is united to the lower edge of the interposed piece C
by a stitched seam E or by cement to give a permanent but pliable joint. The
seam extends somewhat beyond the ends of the piece C, and at such points the
ends of the collar are secured at their lower edges to the upper part of the body A.
The body fabric will usually be turned inwardly and made a double thickness
at the vertical edges, where the buttonholes are formed and buttons applied.
The fabric represented is a two-face' mackintosh goods, the inner surface being of
a plaid pattern to represent a lining. A velvet collar F, covering over the plaid
face of the collar B, is indicated in Figure 8 and part of Figure 6.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, as communicated to
me by my foreign correspondent, I declare that what I claim is:-
A coat or like garment having a suitable body, a collar having its lower edge
cut on a concave curve, and a crescent-shaped piece interposed between and united

page_text: at its edges to said collar and body, the concave edge of said interposed piece
being united to said concave edge of the collar, the degree of concavity of said
piece being less than that of the collar, substantially as, and for the purpose,
set forth.
הוגו
10
D. YOUNG & Co.,
11 and 12, Southampton Buildings, London, W.C.,.
Agents for the Applicant.