Improvements in Fringes and Trimmings.
Year: 1889

page_text: Date of Application, 18th Oct., 1889
Complete Specification Left, 13th Aug., 1890-Accepted, 4th Oct., 1890
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Fringes and Trimmings.
I ALFRED EMIL PRELLER of 80 Wood Street in the City of London, Commercial
Clerk, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to the manufacture of fringes, vallances, shelf or curtain
borderings, tapestry edgings, and other like articles, with longitudinal stripes, plaids,
checks, or other patterns on the fringe as well as upon the headings.
Hitherto, stripes and patterns of irregular shape and form have been woven into
fabrics from printed or dyed weft transversely only. In such cases, no great accuracy
is required, as excess or the reverse of colored weft simply increases or decreases the
width of the stripe, and is not easily detected by the eye. This would not be the
case, however, in longitudinal stripes, or in detached patterns, where inaccuracy in
the lay of the colored weft in the woven patterns would be easily observable.
In order, therefore, to ensure the necessary accuracy, when such patterns are to be
produced, I reel the skeins of weft to a length which will be an exact multiple of the
length of the fringe to be woven, say, 6 or 8 times, and in each of these 6 or 8
divisions of the length of the skein, 1 print or dye the stripe or detached pattern,
but in reverse order in alternate divisions. Thus, for a longitudinally striped fringe
of 54 inches in length, having two stripes of white with a red heading and tip to the
fringe, I colour the skein after it has been opened out and laid flat in the following
order-1 inch of red, 1 white, 1 red, 1 white, 1 red; then, in reverse order in
the next adjoining division, 1 red, 1 white, 1 red, white, 1 red, with repeats
in this order for remaining length of the skein. The colored portions of this weft
thread woven with one shuttle fall into their proper places in the fabric, and pro-
duce a fringe with a red heading, two white stripes, and a red tip.
In those descriptions of fringe where a knotted case cord or open edging super-
sedes a woven heading to the fringe, the use of the loom may be dispensed with,
and the knotted open work or gimp edging be produced by hand in the well known
manner, the printed or.dyed skein of thread which is to form the fringe being folded
up and attached at intervals as required.
In the preparation of chenille weft to be used in the production of similar
patterns in fringes, vallances, &c., I take the uncut woven fabric from which
chenille thread is made as it comes from the loom, and proceed to print it in a
similar manner to the skein of weft before mentioned, that is, with bands or other
arrangements of color in the required order transversely of the fabric, the repeats
being, as before, in reverse order, and the length of each repeat being the depth of
the fringe to be produced. I cut up the woven fabric longitudinally, and twist up
or crimp each separated warp, or group of warps, into a thread; with this printed
chenille thread, the weaving of piled or velvet fringe, vallances, &c., with longitudinal
stripes or detached patterns, may be carried out with the aid of one shuttle only.
Dated this 18th day of October 1889.
NEWTON & SON,
Agents for the Applicant.

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Fringes and Trimmings.
I, ALFRED EMIL PRELLER, of 80 Wood Street in the City of London, Commercial
Clerk, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same
is to be performed, to he particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement :-
The chief object of this invention is to produce fringes having bands of colour,
which may be either continuous through the fabric, or interrupted, when the effect of
checks or chequers is required to be produced.
In carrying out this part of my invention, I provide particoloured weft threads,
which I obtain by printing, on the threads, colours corresponding to those in the
pattern intended to be reproduced. These weft threads may consist of single spun
threads, case cords, or chenille thread, prepared in the way to be hereafter described,
and they will in general be wrought into a fringe by the aid of a loom, warp threads
being employed as usual to produce the heading of the fringe.
In preparing, say, silk or worsted thread, for conversion into the coloured weft,
threads required for the mannfacture of fringes, I reel the same into skeins of a
length which will be an exact multiple of the length of the fringe to be woven, say,
6 or times, and in each of these 6 or 8 divisions of the skein, 1 print or dye the
stripes of colour desired, but in reverse order in alternate divisions. Thus, for a
fringe of 5 inches in length, designed to present, say, two stripes of green with a
red heading, and a red tip to the fringe, I colour the skein, when removed from the
reel, & prepared for the printing table, in the following order :-Assuming the colours
to be red and green, and their proportions determined by the width of stripes desired,
I print, say, 1 inch of red, 14 inches of green, 1 inch of red, 1 inch of green, and
1 inch of red; then, in reverse order in the next adjoining division, 1 inch of red,
1 inch of green, 1 inch of red, 14 inches of green and 1 inch of red. I then repeat,
in the order stated, the colours on the remaining divisions of the skein. The several
coloured portions of this weft thread, woven with one shuttle, will fall into their proper
places in the fabric, and produce a fringe with a red heading, two green stripes, and a
red tip.
When it is desired to produce a check or chequered pattern, the bands of colour
printed on the skeins must be of uniform depth, and two shuttles may with advantage
be used, serving alternately to throw in an equal number of picks.
Supposing red and black to be the colours used, each shuttle will throw in its
proportion of weft in a reverse order to the other, thus producing alternately lines of
red and black squares, and lines of red and black squares, in the fabric.
Or, instead of using two shuttles, when a certain number of picks has been made,
sufficient to complete the check, the weaver may, by readjusting his next shoot of weft
thread, produce the chequers in the reverse order from one and the same shuttle, as
will be readily understood.
In the preparation of chenille weft thread to be used in the production of fringes
of similar patterns to those before mentioned, I take the woven fabric from which
chenille thread is commonly made in iis uncut state, or as it comes from the loom, and
proceed to print it in a similar manner to the skein of weft before mentioned, that is,
with bands of colour in the required order transversely of the fabric, the repeats
being, as before, in reverse order, and the length of each repeat being the depth of
the fringe to be produced.
I then cut up the woven fabric longitudinally, and twist each group of warps into
a thread, thereby securing, as usual, the pile.
With this printed chenille thread, the weaving of pile or velvet fringe, vallances,
etc., with stripes, may be carried out as above explained.
Instead of manufacturing my parti-coloured fringe by the aid of a loom, I may
find it desirable to form the ornamented fringe by hand, and to secure it by hand-
made knots to a gimp heading composed of case cords, or twisted threads, printed in

page_text: colours as above described. The yarn prepared in skeins as already explained, I cut
up into lengths, say, 6 or 8, and these divisions, I fold into two, taking a group of,
say, 12 strands, & knotting them at the fold to the gimp heading. I thus obtain a
varigated knotted fringe.
I also propose to use the variegated thread in the manufacture of gimp trimmings,
with the result, that a novel and pleasing effect is thereby obtained.
To this end, I prepare the parti-coloured threads which are to form the covering of
the case cord, or the strands for the braided gimp thread, by printing or dyeing them
in the reverse manner above explained.
It is well known that case cord or gimp cord is commonly employed to produce
scroll edging and floral decorations, suitable for garments and trimmings for curtains,
the same being made up by hand, and representing, in outline, indifferently, and one
uniform colour, leaves, buds, and blooms of flowers.
By employing particoloured covering threads prepared in the manner above
explained, I am enabled to produce, in the gimp cord, colours corresponding to the
parts of a flower which the cord is intended to outline, and thereby obtain a new and
striking effect in this kind of trimming. Thus, for example, suppose a rose is to be
outlined, I print on the skein, bands of colour corresponding to the varying tints of
the rose, and to the stalk and leaves connected therewith, and the order of these
colours reverse, as explained with respect to the preparation of the thread for the
fringe; 1 thus get a counterpart of the colours of one half of the rose and its leaves,
when the thread is converted into a covering for the cord. It will then be a simple
matter for the operator to outline a flower, the changes of colour in the cord being
the guide for shaping the petals & the leaves.
By the same means, I am enabled to produce in symmetrical continuous patterns,
composed of gimp or case cords, variously tinted, figures consisting each of one
colour or tint, or of varied tints, as desired.
Having now particularly described & ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, & in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
The manufacture of fringes and trimmings ornamented with colours applied in the
manner & for the purpose above set forth.
Dated this 13th day of August 1890.
NEWTON & SON,
Agents for the Applicant.