CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN THE ART OF PRINTING COTTON, SILK, AND OTHER WOVEN FABRICS
Year: 1840

page_text: PHILIPPI'S SPECIFICATION.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, FREDERICK
THEODORE PHILIPPI, of Belfield Hall, Calico Printer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date at West-
minster, the Twenty-fifth day of November, in the fourth year of 'Her reign,
did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the said
Frederic Theodore Philippi, Her especial license, full power, sole privilege
and authority, that I, the said Frederick Theodore Philippi, my executors,
administrators, and assigns, and such others as I, the said Frederic Theodore
Philippi,-my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at auy timé agree
with, and no other, from time to time and at all times during the term of
years therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within England and Wales and the Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, my
Invention of "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN THE ART OF PRINTING COTTON, SILK, AND
OTHER WOVEN FABRICS;" in which said Letters Patent is contained a proviso,
that I, the said Frederic Theodore Philippi, shall cause a particular descrip-
tion of the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be inrolled in Her Majesty's High Court of Chancery within
six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said, in part
recited Letters Patent, as in and by the same, reference being thereunto had,
will more fully and at large appear..
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said
Frederic Theodore Philippi, do hereby declare that the nature of the said
Invention, and the manner in which the same is to be performed, is par-
.

page_text: ticularly described and ascertained in and by the following explanation thereof,
that is to say:-
My improvements in the art of printing cotton, silk, and other woven fabrics
consist in certain methods or processes of preparing certain colors or coloring
matters, (hereafter particularly described,) and also in the application, fixing,
raising, and dyeing of various colours upon woven goods or fabrics, such as
calicoes or muslins, composed of cotton or linen, or any mixture of such or
similar fibrous substances; and in order that my improvements in the art of
printing such woven fabrics may be fully explained and perfectly intelligible to
the operative printer, I will state, firstly, the method of preparing or mixing
various colors, and the nature and use of the mordants employed; and, secondly;
the mode of application, raising, fixing, or dyeing certain colors, and using
certain mordants. To make a standard yellow, No. 1, I take three pounds of
nitrate of lead and three pounds of brown or white sugar of lead (acetate of
lead), dissolved in one gallon of boiling water, and then thickened with calcined
furina or any other known thickening. To make a blue, No. 2, to about thirty
gallons of water take four pounds of ground indigo, six pounds of copperas
(crystalized protosulphate of iron), and ten pounds of powdered, slacked,
or hydrate of lime, mix well up together, then take fifteen gallons of the clear
liquor, add two quarts of liquid muriate of tin at 120° of Twaddle's bydrometer,
filter through flannel to a thick pulp, then take three quarts of this pulp and
one quart of gum water (of about three and a half pounds of gum senegal per
gallon of water or any other thickening matter commonly used,) and two
pounds of calcined farina, and add four ounces of muriate of tin in crystals.
To make a green, No. 3, I dissolve five pounds of white sugar of lead (acetate
of lead) in one pint of acetic acid, in an earthen vessel placed in a hot water
bath, then add, when cool, four quarts of the above-mentioned blue pulp, No. 2,
beat well up with two and a half pounds of calcined farina, and add four ounces
of muriate of tin in crystals. To make an olive, No. 4, I take fifteen quarts
of the standard yellow liquor, No. 1, prepared as above described, and five
quarts of gum water, add one quart of iron liquor at 24° Twaddle (acetate of
iron), and thicken with calcined farina or any other known thickening. To
make an orange, No. 5, I take two quarts of standard yellow liquor, No. 1,
as above, add one quart of standard red, No. 9 (hereafter described), mix
well, and thicken with about two pounds of calcined farina, or any other
known thickening. To make a buff, No. 6, I take three and a half quarts of
standard yellow liquor, No. 1, prepared as above, add one quart of standard
red liquor, No. 9 (hereafter described), mix well and thicken with three pounds
of calcined farina, or any other known thickening. To make a brown, No, 7,

page_text: I take fourteen quarts of the above-mentioned buff colour, No. 6, to one quart
of iron liquor at 24° Twaddle (acetate of iron) and thickened with calcined
farina or any other known thickening; brown, or the common catechu mordant,
will answer likewise for this color. To make a drab, No. 8, I take eight
quarts of standard yellow liquor, No. 1, prepared as above, twelve quarts of
gum water and one quart of iron liquor at 24° Twaddle (acetate of iron), and
thicken with calcined farina or any other known thickening. The above-
named colors are all new preparations, mixtures, or combinations, formed from
the standard yellow or blue colours. The under-mentioned colors are only
claimed as to their combination with the solution of lead, and the above-named
blue pulp, in order to constitute a variety of fancy shades, not hitherto so used.
in the art of printing, and used by themselves, differing but slightly from those
at present in use. To make a standard red, No. 9, I dissolve four pounds of
alum in one gallon of boiling water and add to it two and half pounds of white
and two and a half pounds of brown sugar of lead (acetate of lead), or five
pounds of either, thickened with calcined farina or any other known thickening.
To make a strong or deep red, No. 10, I take three and a half pounds of alum
dissolved in one gallon of boiling water, add to it one and a half pound of brown
sugar of lead and one and a half pound white sugar of lead (acetate of lead),
or three pounds of either one or the other; then thicken one quart of this
clear liquor with about six ounces of flour starch or farina calcined; when cool
add one and a half ounces muriate of tin in crystals. To make a pale red, or
pink, No. 11, I take eight pounds of alum, dissolved in two gallons of boiling
water, add three pounds of common carbonate of soda, or any other alkali, by
degrees, then add two pounds of white or brown sugar of lead (acetate of
lead), then thicken one quart of this clear liquor with three quarts of
gum water, or take one quart of the above strong red mordant No. 10,
and four quarts of gum water. To make a black, No. 12, I take one and
a half quarts of good malt vinegar, add one quart of iron liquor at about
24° Twaddle (acetate of iron), and thicken with one and a half pounds of
flour or any other known thickening according to pattern. To make a
purple or lilac, No. 14, I take one quart of iron liquor, 24° Twaddle (acetate of
iron), add to it six quarts of good malt vinegar, and ten quarts of water, and
thicken with flour or any other thickening, according to pattern. To make a
chocolate, No. 13, the mordant now commonly used for this color will answer
and is thererefore not claimed. A variety of fancy shades can be produced by
inixing yellow, standard blue, pulp red, standard and iron.liquor (acetate of
iron) together, or any two or more of them in various proportions; any or all
of the above prepared colors. or mordants may be printed or applied as usual,

page_text: either by hand or machine upon the fabric or cloth, which must. then be
hanged up in a warm room until perfectly dry, and be exposed to oxydation
or "dyed" with the exception of such goods as have: either blue, or green, or
any other color containing a portion of the blue pulp No. 2 printed. upon them,
which should not be exposed to the influence of the atmosphere, or as little as
can be helped. Those having colors which contain iron liquor will derive.
benefit from oxydation, but even here. it is not absolutely necessary. The
raising or fixing process is thus performed:-
Dissolve in a cistern about six feet. long, three feet deep, and four feet wide,:
or any other convenient. vessel of suitable dimensions,) one hundred pounds of
carbonate of soda (or any other carbonated alkali) in warm water till it
stands at about 18° Twaddle; let it. cool, and then add about one hundred and
fifty pounds, of cow dung, mix them well together, and let it stand twenty-four
hours, or more before using; any liquid or soluble substance containing a sufficient
quantity of ammonia. may be used in lieu of cow dung, but I prefer. the latter;
er I dissolve in the same quantity of warm water fifty pounds of carbonate of
soda, add to this about twenty to twenty-five pounds of bycarbonate of soda,
let cool, and mix with about fifty pounds of cow dung; any other carbonated:
and bycarbonated alkali, as well as any liquid or soluble substance containing.
a sufficient quantity of ammonia, will answer. the purpose; but I prefer
carbonate and bycarbonate of soda and cow dung. Then wince or run the
printed pieces. through this liquid. by means of a frame and rollers, or any.
suitable apparatus, for four or five minutes, afterwards wince them well in:
water; now wash the pieces in a wash or dash wheel, then wince for five or
six minutes in. a solution proportioned as follows:-four ounces of bichromate
of potash and four ounces. of common carbonate of soda, (or any other
carbonated. or bycarbonated alkali) dissolved in four quarts of water, then
again wash in a wash or dash wheel; well then dung, say fifteen pieces,
in a common dung or dye vat set. with about sixty pounds of cow dung
to about two hundred gallons of water, heated at 120° F, and dung at
this heat half an hour, then wince in water and wash twice in a wash
or dash wheel, then dye with madder, munjeet, cochineal,. Brazil, peach,
logwood, or any other dye or dyewood. in the ordinary way of dyeing
practised by calico printers or dyers, (I prefer madder for dyeing;). then wince
in water, wash in a wash or dash wheel, then "bran twice in the usual way.
as for madder colors, and clear after wincing, and washing in about three
hundred gallons of boiling water, containing about eight quarts of chloride of
lime, commonly called "chemic," at 8° Twaddle, and two quarts of common
carbonate of soda, dissolved at 20° Twaddle, for about five or six minutes,

page_text: or until a good clear white is produced in the ground, wince and wash well;'
and dry up for finishing. If I want very bright colors, particularly red or
pink, I make the mordant for all colors a little stronger, and proceed as above,
with the exception of passing through the solution of bichromate of potash and
carbonate of soda, then after dyeing do not bran but soap as usual, at about
140 Fahrenheit, for half an hour, wash and wince for a few minutes through
about three hundred to four hundred gallons of water mixed with about two
quarts of sulphuric acid (oil of vitriol) at 180° Twaddle. Wash well and soap:
again for half an hour; enter the pieces at about 120° to 180° Fahrenheit,
and finish at about 180° Fahrenheit; clear then as above stated, and raise now
only in the before-mentioned solution of bichromate of potash and carbonate of
soda. If I have taken goods through this solution before dyeing, I then use
the same soaping processes; but the aciding between the soapings is so far
varied as I take in lieu of the two quarts of sulphuric acid (oil of vitriol) to the
three hundred to four hundred gallons of water, about six to eight quarts of
nitric acid at 60 Twaddle. Wash and clear, and, if required, wince once more
through the bichromate of potash and carbonate of soda solution; wash and
dry as above; but I prefer the last-mentioned process with sulphuric acid. In
order to brighten the yellow and blue mordants, Nos. 1 and 2, still more, and
their several combinations, pass the goods through a solution composed of
about two-thirds of carbonate of sola and one-third of bicarbonate of soda,
standing at about 16° Twaddle, or any other carbonated or bicarbonated
alkali, for a few minutes.
Having now particularly described my new processes or methods of pre-.
paring, mixing, and applying, raising, or fixing and dyeing various colors, and
the nature and use of the mordants employed, constituting my improvements
in the arts of printing calicoes, &c., I do not confine myself to the exact pro-
portions herein-before named, as any slight variation, either more or less,
may be made without departing from the principles of my Invention.
desire it to be understood that I claim as of my Invention only such novel
processes as are herein specially set forth :-
I
Firstly, I claim the combination and application of the solution of lead, as
in yellow, No. 1, and the blue pulp produced by the means under the head of
blue; the second, mentioned in the above description of colours, (for the pur-
poses of printing calicoes, &c.,) and any or all combination of them with each
other, or any other known mordants generally used in the art of calico printing.
Secondly, the raising or fixing of these mordants, by passing the printed
cloth through the bath composed of cow dung, or any liquid or soluble sub-
stanco containing a sufficient quantity of ammonia in lieu of cow dung, and

page_text: carbonate or bicarbonate of soda, or any other carbonated or bycarbonated
alkali as before described.
Thirdly, the raising of the said colors so applied and raised, or fixed,
through the before-described mixture of bichromate of potash and carbonate
of soda, or any other carbonated alkali, either before or after dunging, dyeing,
and branning, or soaping, aciding, and clearing.
And, fourthly, the passing the colors or mordants produced as just described.
in the three preceding claims, through madder or any other known dyes, and
thereby producing colors which have never been heretofore so done, and
being thus cheaper, and more expeditiously effected than by the method now
followed..
In witness whereof, I, the said Frederic Theodore Philippi, have here-
unto set my hand and seal, the Twenty-fourth day of May, in the
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and forty-one.
FREDERIC THEODORE (L.S.) PHILIPPI.
AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the same Twenty-fourth day of
May, in the year above mentioned, the aforesaid Frederic Theodore Philippi
came before our Lady the Queen in Her Chancery, and acknowledged the
Specification aforesaid, and all and every thing therein contained, in form above
written. And also the Specification aforesaid was stamped according to the
tenor of the Statute in that case made and provided.
Inrolled the Twenty-fifth day of May, in the year above mentioned.