CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR EMBROIDERING OR ORNAMENTING BOBBIN NET OR LACE, OR CLOTHS, STUFF, OR OTHER FABRICS MADE FROM SILK, COTTON, WOOL, FLAX, OR HEMP,
Year: 1835

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, JAMES
CROPPER, of the Town and County of the Town of Nottingham, Lace
Manufacturer, and THOMAS BROWN MILNES, of Lenton Works, in the County
of Nottingham, Bleacher, send greeting.
WHEREAS His present most Excellent Majesty King William the
Fourth, by His Letters Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing
date at Westminster, the Fourteenth day of November, in the sixth year of
His reign, did, for Himself, His heirs and successors, give and grant unto us,
the said James Cropper and Thomas Brown Milnes, His special licence, full
power, sole privilege and authority, that we, the said James Cropper and
Thomas Brown Milnes, our exors, adiñiors, and assigns, or such others as we, the
said James Cropper and Thomas Brown Milnes, our cxors, admors, or assigns,
should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time, and at all
times during the term of years therein expressed, should and lawfully might
make, use, exercise, and vend, within England, Wales, and the Town of Ber-
wick-upon-Tweed, the Invention of "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR
APPARATUS FOR EMBROIDERING OR ORNAMENTING BOBBIN NET OR LACE, OR CLOTHS,
STUFF, OR OTHER FABRICS MADE FROM SILK, COTTON, WOOL, FLAX, OR HEMP,"
communicated to us by a certain Foreigner residing abroad; in which said
Letters Patent is contained a proviso that we, the said James Cropper and
Thomas Brown Milnes, or one of us, shall cause a particular description of the
nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed,

page_text: to be inrolled in His said Majesty's High Court of Chancery within six calendar
months next and immediately after the date of the said in part recited Letters
Patent, as in and by the same, reference being thereunto had, will more fully
and at large appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, we, the said
James Cropper and Thomas Brown Milnes, do hereby declare the nature of
the said Invention, and the manner in which the same is to be performed,
are fully described and ascertained in and by the following statement thereof,
reference being had to the Drawings hereunto annexed, and the figures and
letters marked thereon (that is to say):-
The Invention consists-
First, in improvements in machinery for embroidering or ornamenting
bobbin net or lace, or cloths, stuffs, or other fabrics made from silk, cotton,
wool, flax, or hemp, by means of needles, subsequently to such fabrics having
been produced by any of the ordinary means; and,
Secondly, the Invention consists in improvements applied to looms, whereby
the fabrics made therein shall (in the process of making) be embroidered or
ornamented by means of threads (coming from certain carriages with bobbins,
such are used in bobbin net machinery), which are laid on both the upper
and under surfaces of the warp of the loom, and consequently form additional
threads to what are thrown between the warp threads by the crossing of the
shuttle. The threads proceeding from the bobbin net carriages are laid in
such manner as to give an appearance similar to what the fabric would have
had if embroidered with needles by passing ornamenting threads thro' and thro
the fabric.
In order that the said Invention may be most fully understood and readily
carried into effect, we will now proceed to explain the Drawings hereunto
annexed; and when we have done so we will point out and define what portions
of the machinery described constitute the improvements claimed under the
present Letters Patent.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.
Fig. 1 represents an end view and Fig. 2 a transverse section of a machine
having the first part of the Invention applied thereto. In these Figures the
same letters of reference indicate similar parts; and such is the case with
reference to the detached views of various parts also shewn in this Drawing.
a, a, Fig. 1, is the one end framing of the machine, and it should be
remarked that tho other end of the machine is constructed of a similar
framing a, a, as seen in Fig. 2. These end framings a, a, are connected by

page_text: P
the bar b, and the end framings a, a, are securely bolted to the floor in order
to obtain sufficient steadiness to the working parts; c, c, and d, d, are tracks or
rails on which the needle carriages move to and from the pieces of fabrics
(which are being ornamented or embroidered), in order to draw the needles
which carry the ornamenting or embroidering threads through and through
the fabric, as will be hereafter described. The tracks or rails c, c, and d, d
are truly horizontal, and are securely affixed to the end framings a, a, but at
sufficient distance from such end framings to allow of the needle carriages
moving to and from the fabric clear of the end framings. e and f are the
wheels of the needle carriages; the wheels e, e, running on the tracks or
rails c, c, and the wheels f, f, running on the tracks or rails d, d. The needle
carriages consist of the main bars 9, which runs longitudinally from end to
end of the machine. On these bars 9 are affixed the frames h, h, (their
construction will readily be ascertained by an inspection of the sheet of
Drawings now under description). On to these frames h, h, are affixed the
holder bars i, j, which run from end to end of the carriages. On these holder
bars are placed the holders k, the construction of which will be more clearly
ascertained by Fig. 3, which shews the parts on a larger scale. The
holders are affixed by screws or otherwise to the bars i, whilst the other
ends of the holders k rest and press on the bars j, the holders k being
springs; and it should be remarked, that when the holders k are affixed to
the bars by screws, then those bars should (throughout their length)
have screwed holes into which the screws may enter for affixing the
holders k. By this means the position or situation of the holders may be
changed on the bars i. In order to accommodate them to the work which
it is desired they should perform, across the upper surfaces of the bars j
(and opposite to the centre of each of the holes formed in the bars i) are
cut small grooves, in which the needles lie when pressed on by the holders k.
It will be seen that each carriage has two sets of bars i, j, which is in order to
work two pieces of fabric at the same time and with the same pattern, or to
work one piece of fabric in two places at the same time; but the machine is
shewn as intended to work two pieces of fabric. 1, 1; are the bars which carry
the axes of the wheels e, f. It has been stated that the holders,k are springs,
and consequently have at all times a tendency to press on the bars j; but in
order to relieve such pressure, when it is desired to remove the needles from
one needle carriage to the other, there are rollers m, m, which are placed
under the holders, such rollers having a portion of their surfaces removed,
which is clearly shewn in Fig. 3, so that when that portion of any of the
rollers is horizontal, and offers a plain surface to the holders, such holders will

page_text: be pressing on their respective bars j; but when the rollers m are moved
round they will touch the holders, and lift them from the bars j, and hence
release the needles from the holders and the bars j, in order that the needles
may pass under the holders when they are taken hold of and drawn through the
fabric by the holders to the other needle carriage. n, o, are two shafts or axes
turning in suitable bearings at each end of the machine, and on these shafts or
axes are affixed pulleys or drums p, having studs or points at equal distances,
which pass through holes in the endless straps 2, which straps q also pass over
pulleys or drums r. The needle carriages e and f are attached to the endless
straps, and are moved thereby. On to the shafts or axes n, o, are also
affixed cog wheels n, o, by which those shafts are actuated.
moving on the fulcrum or axis t, which axis is affixed to
framing a of the machine. x is a cog wheel with a fixed axle passing thro' the
lever s, which whell a is caused to move by the cranked handle y affixed to
z is an intermediate cog wheel, which turns on an axle affixed to
being driven by the cog wheel a
its axle.
the lever s. The intermediate wheel
s is a bent lever
one end of the
actuates either the wheel n or o, according to which side the levers is inclined,
pass to and from the fabric
In order to cause the lever s
and thus will the needle carriages be caused to
which is being embroidered or ornamented.
alternately to incline first on one side and then on the other, the treadles A
and B are applied, and on the shaft or axis w is affixed the toothed rack or
sector C, which is actuated by another toothed sector D, which is applied to
the end of the lever s by a pin joint, such sector D being affixed on the axis E,
which turns in suitable bearings, the one affixed to the end framing a, a, and
the other bearing is screwed to the floor. F, F, are two pulleys affixed to
the axis E, from which proceed the cords G, G, to the treadles, and these cords
are so affixed to the respective pulleys that they will cause the axis E to turn
in opposite directions; that is to say, the treadle A will when forced-down-by-
the foot-of-the-workman, cause the axle E to turn in one direction, and the
treadle B when put down will turn the axle E in the reverse direction. By
this means the lever s is caused to incline to and from each of the cog wheels n
and o as required. On the shaft or axis ware affixed to the forked arms H, H;
these arms consequently rock up and down whenever the lever s is moved
from one side to the other. I, I, are bars or rods which slide in guides J, J,
affixed to the needle carriages, there being one of such sliding bars at each
end of each carriage, and at one end of each of the rods I is cut a slot in
which is affixed a projecting stud by means of a screw and screw nut, the slot
in the end of the rod I allowing of adjustment to such stud; and to each of
the rods I is affixed a stop which, coming on to the guides J, prevent the rods

page_text: I descending too low down; and also projecting stops K are affixed on the
bars I, one to each, which in those bars rising come behind stops K' affixed
to the end framing a, a, and so long as such bars I are lifted the needle
carriage to which they are connected cannot be run out. On the bars I are
also affixed studs L, on which the rods M move, there being slots cut in the
rods M for that purpose, and these rods M are affixed to the rollers m, which
raise the bolders from off the needle, as has been before described; and this
raising of the holders & is performed (as soon as either of the needle carriages
has been run in) by means of one or other of the treadles A, B, for on putting
down either of those treadles it will cause one set of the forked arms II, H, to
rise and the others to fall. By this means (and the running in of the particular
carriage having caused the projecting studs of the sliding bars I on that
carriage to enter between the forked ends of the arms H) the bars I, I, of
the last come in needle carriages will rise, and hence move the rollers m, which
will lift the holders & at the same time. The other arms H, H, which simul-
taneously fall, turn the rollers me of the needle carriage which has just received
the needles, so that the flat surface thereof comes under the holders k of that
needle carriage, and thus permit those holders to close down on the needles,
and hold them fast on the bars j. The descending of the rods I, which
are attached to that carriage, cause the stops K to pass from the other stop K';
the needle carriage which has just received the needle may then be run out
by the workman turning the handle y. N, N, are curved boards running
from end to end of the machine. These boards are covered with woollen
cloth, to prevent the loose thread (from the needles) twisting when such
threads fall on these boards and lie thereon, as the needle carriages run
in towards the pieces of fabric which are being embroidered or ornamented.
0, 0, arc axes turning in bearings at each end of the needle carriages. P, P,
are projecting arms which carry wires or rods which lie on the threads during
the time the needle carriages are run from and to the pieces of fabric which
are being embroidered, and these wires or rods have at all times a tendency
to fall inwards on to the threads by the weights Q, Q, on the axes O, 0;
but at the coming in of the needle carriages the stops R on the end framings
a, a, cause the wires or rods to be thrown back from off the threads pre-
viously to the needles penetrating the pieces of fabric. S, S, is quadrangular
frame on which the pieces of fabric are stretched. This frame has four
rollers, the axes of which have proper bearings affixed to the frame S. These
rollers have ratchet wheels and catches, as is well understood, by which they
are held in any position to which they are put. Each piece of fabric is
would on to one of these rollers, and made fast to another roller, by which

page_text: means the pieces of fabric are kept stretched, as will be clearly seen in
Figure 2, and in a condition to be embroidered or ornamented by passing
of threads through and through by means of the needles, according to any
pattern which it is desired to produce thereon; and so soon as one pattern
is produced across each piece of fabric the workman unwinds such a quantity
off each roller which contains the pieces of fabric as is determined on for
the distance the rows of patterns shall be one from another; and such is
to be the case till the pieces are worked throughout. T, T, are levers moving
on an axis T", the bearing of which are affixed to the floor. These levers T
have weights on their outer ends, which are capable of sliding thereon, and
by means of set screws can be affixed to any desired possition, in order
accurately to balance the frame S, S, and thus allow of that frame licing
moved in any direction with ease and facility; for it should be understood
that the frame S has to be moved in order to vary the position of each stitch
or passing of the needles through the pieces of fabric, and by this means
is any patterns which it is desired to work performed by each needle, as
will be more fully understood when we come to describe the manner of
working the machine. V, V, are guides affixed to the framing of the machine,
as is clearly shewn in the Drawing. The guides V, V, pass through slots
affixed to the frame S, by which means that frame, though permitted to
move up and down and from end to end of the machine, it is retained securely
in a vertical position. At that end of the levers T which rest under the
frame S there are friction rollers, by which the moving of the frame in a
direction from end to end of the machine is facilitated. Figure 4 shews
part of the frame S, having the apparatus applied thereto by which that
frame can be moved in any direction, in order to cause the needles to
pass through the pieces of fabric at different places at each runing. in
of a needle carriage; and if such movements of the frame S be performed
according to any fixed design or pattern, that design or pattern will be produced
-on-the-pieces-of-fabric-by-the-passing-of-the-needles-with-their-threads-through-
and through the pieces of fabric, one such pattern or design opposite each
needle. W is a lever with a handle and point, and X is a board on which is
affixed a pattern (drawn on an enlarged scale to what it is desired to produce it
on the pieces of fabric). The pattern is produced on a plate or plates of
brass or other metal by punching or perforating, by which means the point
on the lever W may readily be held to: any position of the pattern on the
board X; and according to the direction in which the point is moved on
the pattern so will be the next set of stitches performed by the needles, and
the stitches will be longer or shorter accordingly as the point is moved to a

page_text: greater or less distance on the pattern. The lever W is connected to
two other levers Y, Z, by means of pin joints, which allow of free movement,
the lever Y being connected with the frame S by a pin joint, and the lever Z
is connected to the framing or top bar of the machine by a pin joint, as is
clearly shewn in the Drawing. The levers Y, Z, are connected by the link
Z' and by pin joints. By this arrangement it will be evident that the frame
S will be moved in a precisely similar manner to the point on the lever W,
but to a reduced extent, owing to the distance of the point on the lever W
from the fulcrum of that lever.
Having thus explained the manner of combining the several parts of the
machine, together with the improvements applied thereto, we proceed to
describe the manner of action, first remarking that the Drawing shews
the needles in the needle carriages e, e, which is run out, and the needle
carriage f, f, is standing close to the pieces of fabric. The lever s is inclined
to the wheel n; consequently when the workman turns the handle y he will
cause the needle carriage e, e, to move in towards the frame S; the threads
of the needles will be pressed on by the wires or rods on the axes O, and
thus be forced to fall down on to the boards N; and as the needle carriage
e proceeds the wires or rods will be thrown off the threads as above described,
and the needles will penetrate the pieces of fabric, and enter the grooves
cut in the bars j of the needle carriage f; the studs at the ends of the bars
I will enter the forked arms 11; the workman will then put down the
treadle A, which will move the shaft w, and consequently the forked arms H,
and put over the levers to the wheel o, by which means the bars I of the
needle carriage e, e, will be raised, which will actuate the rollers m, and
cause those rollers to lift the holders k off the needles.
At the same
time the moving of the forked arms will draw down the bars I of the needle
carriage f, f, which moving of the rollers m of that carriage will permit
the holders to press on and hold the needles. The moving of the bars I will
also lock the needle carriage e, e, by the stops K, and unlock the carriage f, f,
by causing the stops K of that carriage to separate from the stops K'
affixed to the framing. The needle carriage f, f, having the needles, may
now be run out by the workman turning the handle, which movement
will draw the needles and their threads through the pieces of fabric. The
workman is then to move the point to another position of the pattern. The
needle carriage f, f, may then be run in by the workman in like manner to
that described with reference to the needle carriage e, c. The treadle B is
then to be put down, which will unlock the carriage e, e, and lock the carriage
f; f, and also release the needles by lifting the holders k of the needle carriage

page_text: f.f; at the same time the holders k of the needle carriage e, e, will be released
and permitted to press on the needles. The needle carriage e, c. may then be
run out, which will bring the parts of the machine again into the position
shewn in the Drawing. The workman is again to move the point on the
lever W to another situation on the pattern, and again cause the needle
carriage e, e, to run in, and by such means the workman continues to work the
machine til the pieces of fabric are completely embroidered or ornamented,
when they are to be removed, and fresh picces put into the machine. From
the foregoing description a workman will readily be able to work the machine,
and it will only be desirable to remark that the threads as they become
worked into the pieces of fabric will progressively shorten, and require the
workman to run out the carriages to a less and less distance from the pieces of
fabric at each passing of the needles, which he will readily be able to do by
the control he has over all parts of the machine by the driving handle y; and
it will be evident that when the pattern is small or otherwise does not use up
all the thread, in such cases each thread proceeds from one row of pattern to
another, which must be removed by cutting when the pieces of fabric are
completed, and such is also to be the case with the ends of the threads. And
it should be remarked that in threading the needles the workman is to pass a
piece of thread through the eye of a needle, and to the extent of one to two
inches; having done so, he folds it down on to the other part of the thread,
and then passes the needle through the two thicknesses of thread twice, but at
different places, though nearly close together. By this means the thread is
made fast to the needle without producing a knot which will impede the
passing of the thread through the fabric.
We would remark, that we are aware that the larger portion of the
parts of the machinery here described have been before combined for the
purposes of embroidering-or-ornamenting. We do not therefore make any
claim thereto, but confine ourselves to the application to such machinery of
the improvements hereafter particularly pointed out, and specifically and
distinctly claimed as the first part of the Invention secured by the present
Letters Patent.
We will now proceed to describe the second part of the Invention. In
doing so we have not thought it necessary to shew more of a loom than is
sufficient to explain the manner of applying certain portions or parts of bobbin-
net lace machines to looms which work with shuttles, whereby the threads
proceeding from the carriages are caused to embroider or ornament the fabrics
which are made in the loom to which the improvements are applied. Fig. 5
represents a section from front to back of a loom, many of the parts being left

page_text: out in order to prevent complexity of drawing; but as looms for weaving
various descriptions of fabrics, whether from silk, cotton, wool, flax, or hemp, are
well understood, and as we in no way vary the same in principle other than to
add the parts of lace machinery herein-before noticed, a workman will by a
careful attention to the description hereafter given of the parts to be added to
looms readily apply the same, and also make such variations in such parts of
bobbin-net lace machinery as to adapt the principle of these improvements to
different constructions of looms. Fig. 6 is a front view of the improvements
shewn separately. In each of these Figures, and also the detached views of
the separate parts shewn on this sheet of the Drawings, the same letters of
reference indicate similar parts.
We would remark, that the manner of weaving the various descriptions of
fabrics, and also the manner of arranging the warp threads, and the parts
which work them, being well understood to weavers, we do not propose to
enter into any description thereof, but confine our explanation to the application
of the improvements and the manner of their working in order to embroider
or ornament the fabric which is being produced in the loom to which such
improvements may be applied. a, a, are two comb or belt bars for receiving
the leads of combs or bolts such as are used in bobbin-net machinery. These
bars a, a, are affixed to and carried by the bent levers b, which move on the
shafts or axes c, c, at each end of the bars a, a. The axes c, c, are affixed to
the brackets d, d, which project from and are affixed to the front framing of
the loom. is a bar moving on points or axes at each side of the loom.
To the bar e are affixed the arms f, f, having slots g, h, formed therein to
receive the axes g, h, which are affixed in the slots by screws and nuts, the
slots allowing for adjustment of such axes g, g, h, h. From the axes g, g, the
connecting rods i, i, are suspended, such connecting rods i, i, being connected
with the levers 6 by pin joints as shewn in the Drawing, and from the axes h, h,
are suspended the connecting rods j, j, which are connected to the bark by
pin joints, as is clearly shewn. The bar k proceeds from side to side of the
loom, and is caused to rise and fall by the working of the other parts of the
machinery, as will be hereafter fully described; and the bar k is guided up and
down by the guides 1, 1, which pass through that bar. m is a treadle which is
connected to the bark by the cord n. By this means the bar k may be caused
to descend at proper intervals, and with that bar & the parts connected there-
with and receiving motion therefrom will be actuated. 0, 0, are two pulleys on
the shaft p, which shaft turns in suitable bearings on each side of the loom.
g are weighted cords attached to the bar k, and passing over the pulleys o, o,
cause the bark and the parts connected therewith to rise whenever the treadle

page_text: m is released by the workman removing his foot. r, r, are levers which move
on axes s, 8, which axes are affixed to brackets s, s, affixed to the front framing
of the loom, as is clearly shewn. The levers r, r, are attached by pin joints to
the connecting rods j, j, and the other ends of the levers r, r, are attached by
pin joints to the connecting rods t, t, the connecting rods t, t, being attached
by pin joints to the levers b, b, which carry the under combs or bolts a for the
bobbin-net carriages. is a shaft or axis turning in bearings in the brackets
w, at each side of the loom. On to this axes vis affixed the handle a, by which
the workman actuates certain of the parts of the machinery, as will be fully
described hereafter. y is an arm affixed to the shaft or axes v, and is
constantly drawn downwards by the spring z, as will be evident on an exa-
mination of the Drawing. A, A, are arms affixed to the axes v, to which are
attached by pin joints the connecting rods B, B, which are attached to the
frames or crank levers C, C, by pin joints, as is clearly shewn; and by an
examination of the Drawing the nature and construction of the frames or
The frames or crank levers C, C,
crank levers C, C, will be readily traced.
move on the axes c, c, as shown. C', C', are two bars or rods affixed to the
frames or crank levers C; and it is by these rods that the carriages are driven
from the top to the bottom combs or bolts, and from the bottom bolts or combs
to the top, and that passing the carriages through the warp threads for the
purpose
of laying over the threads from such carriages on the surface of the
warp threads, as will be hereafter described. D is an arm or lever affixed to
the shaft or axes v, and E is a connecting rod connected by a pin joint to the
lever F, which moves on a fulcrum at G. In the lever F is formed a slot. for
receiving the axis H, which is affixed to the lever F by the screw and nut.
I is a bar or rod which moves on the axis H, and this bar works in the slot or
projections J on the bar K, and the bar K turns on axes in bearings affixed to
the framing of the loom, as is shewn in the Drawing. K' is a driver moving
on an axis on the bar K, and works with the bar, the driver K¹ being at all
times drawn towards-the rachet wheel P by a spring. On the bar K is affixed
the projection K, from which projection descends the rod. K, which passes
through the bar, and has a screw nut thereon, by which means when the
bar K descends, it will draw down the rod K³, and work the driver, and move
the ratchet wheel, and consequently the shogging wheel. At the lower end of
the bar I is formed an inclined stop, which coming against the end of the slot
(in which it works) as the bar rises it moves the Driver K, which actuating
the shogging wheel a short distance thus permits the carriages to shog back-to
the left hand. L is a frame which is capable of sliding along the bar M, the
bar M being affixed in the front of the loom, and serves also as the brest

page_text: beam for the fabric.
The frame L, it will be seen, embraces the two levers b
at one side of the loom. N is a projection on the frame L, which is held in
contact with the shogging wheel O on the fixed axis P, the shogging wheel O
being affixed to the ratchet wheel P, and turns with it. And it will thus be
evident that, according as the shogging wheel O is cut, so will be the working
of the carriages in the combs or bolts. Thus, supposing it is desired to make
square spots at every twentieth space between the bolts or combs, and that
such spots should be as wide as one gait (or from one space to the other of
the bolts or combs), in such case there would be a carriage put into every
twentieth space of the combs, and the shogging wheel O would be so cut as
alternately to rise and fall one gait. By this means each carriage will be moved
one gait to the right hand and lay its thread on one side of the warp threads,
and then back one gait to the left hand, laying its thread on the other side of
the warp threads, there being a weft thread thrown in after each shogging to
and fro of the comb or bolt bars. R is a holder bar which retains the
carriages in the upper combs or bolts. This holder bar moves on an axle S,
which turns in bearings affixed to the upper comb or bolt bar, and the holder
bar is at all times pressed on by the spring T. The holder bar R is raised off
the carriages at proper periods by the rod V, which passing through the projection
W, and having a turned up head or end or set screw nut, which being raised
up to the projection W, lifts the holder bar from the carriages, as will be
described hereafter. X is a lever turning on a fulcrum at X'. This lever is
affixed to the rod Y; and it will be seen that the lever X lies over the shaft or
axis v, and thus when the handle x is drawn outwards towards the workman,
the edge of that barv (or a set screw, or a tappet affixed thereon,) will come
against the lever X and lift it, and hence the holding bar R.
Having thus described the nature of the improvements to be applied to
looms, we will explain the manner of action. In doing so we will suppose
that the workman (should the improvement be applied to a hand loom) is
sitting in front of a loom properly fitted up to produce any particular fabric.
Having woven a short length of fabric, he puts back the lay and reed; for it
should be understood that the weaving with the shuttle is suspended at the
moment the working of the carriages is performed. In addition to putting
back the lay and reed, the warp threads are to be all brought into one
place. The workman then puts down the treadle m, by which means the bolt
or comb bars a are caused to approach each other, and the carriages being in
the upper combs or bolts, and the shogging wheel shogs the bars one gait to
the right, the workman draws the handle x to him, which drives the carriages

page_text: into the bottom combs or bolts.
He then forces the handle & into the loom,
by which means the bar I actuating the shogging wheel a short distance, the
bolt or comb bars are drawn back one gait to the left. The continued forcing
in of the handler causes the carriages to be again driven into the upper combs
or bolts. He then removes his foot from the treadle m, the comb or bolt bars
He again puts
separate, and he throws in a weft thread by the shuttle.
back the lay, and proceeds again to actuate the carriages, and again throws in
a weft, and so on till the spots are sufficiently formed. He then continues the
ordinary process of weaving till the quanty is woven which is determined shall
be the distance of one row of spots from the other. He then proceeds again
to make spots. From the foregoing description it will be seen that, although
we have mentioned spots as the ornaments produced, we have done so to give
a simple pattern, in order the more readily to point out the manner of working
the improvements; but it will be evident that by cutting the shogging wheel
with other cutts than those mentioned, a great variety of pattern may. be
produced for embroidering or ornamenting fabrics at the time they are being
produced in the loom to which the improvements are applied, all which must,
however, depend on taste.
Having thus described the nature of the Invention as communicated to us
from abroad, we would have it understood that what we claim as the improve-
ments secure by the present Letters Papent are-
First, the application of lever "s" and the handle "y" for working the
combination of the wheels "," "z," "n," and "o," for running the needle
carriages from and to the pieces of fabric.
And we also claim the application of the forked arms H, and the parts
connected therewith for working the rollers m" to open the holders k.
And further we claim the manner of applying holders on bars.i.and-j-by-
which means the bars j constitute-the-holding surface for the holders kc.
And further we claim the constructing the holders k of springs, as above
described.
Secondly, we claim the application of bolt bars or comb bars and carriages
(such as are used in bobbin-net machinery) to looms, whereby we are enabled
to embroider or ornament cloths, stuffs, or other fabrics made from silk, cotton,
wool, flax, or hemp, during the process of making such fabric. as above
described.
Though we would have it understood that we do not confine ourselves
to the precise manner of actuating such bolt or comb bars and carriages as
herein described, for it will be evident that such actuating will, in a great

page_text: measure, depend on the construction of the loom to which the improvements
are applied.
In witness whereof, the said James Cropper and Thomas Brown
Milnes have hereunto set their hands and seals, the ninth day
of May, in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and
thirty-six.
JAMES (1..s.) CROPPER.
T. B. (L.s.) MILNES.
AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the ninth day of May, in the year
of our Lord 1836, the aforesaid James Cropper and Thomas Brown Milnes
came before our said Lord the King in His Chancery, and acknowledged
the Specification aforesaid, and all and every thing therein contained and
specified, in form above written. And also the Specification aforesaid was
stamped according to the tenure of the Statute made for that
purpose.
Inrolled the Fourteenth day of May, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and thirty-six.