Improvements in Embroidering Machines.
Year: 1889

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Embroidering Machines.
We, GUILLAUME LEONARD MIOK, MATHIAS KURSTEINER, EMIL TANENZ of
15 rue de Richelieu, Paris in the Republic of France do hereby declare the nature of
this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
Our invention relates to an embroidering machine which, besides preserving
without any alteration the main features of the Swiss machines (whether operating
with discontinuous or inultiple threads, as Heilman's machine, or with a continuous
or single thread, like Rieter's machine) is provided with a mechanism which prints
the fabric in proportion as the embroidered design is produced thereon and that
without necessitating any alteration in the mode of operation of the embroidering
devices the object. thus attained being, the manufacture of a fabric which, both by
means of well-known machinery and by additional parts contrived by ourselves, is
provided with a printed design fitting in, in any desired or predetermined manner,
with the outlines and figures of the embroidered design.
The fabric thus embroidered and printed by the aforesaid machinery forms a new
industrial product of our invention.
To enable the construction and operation of our machine to be more readily under-
stood we have illustrated the same in the accompanying drawings from which it may
be seen that, as before mentioned, it forms one whole composed of a well known part
and of a novel mechanism, both concurring in producing simultaneously and con-
cordant printed and embroidered designs.
The drawings represent ;-
(1) The various parts of our printing mechanisin in their actual size.
(2) A machine working with discontinuous threads after Heilman's system with
the printing devices fitted to it. This combined embroidering and printing machine
forms a new machine of our own system, producing our new article of manufacture
viz. a printed and embroidered fabric whereon the printed and the embroidered designs
fall in with each other as desired.
In these drawings the same letters of reference indicate like parts in all figures, the
capitals referring to the well known parts of the ordinary embroidering machine,
while the small letters designate the elements of our new printing mechanism.
Figs. 1, 2, 7, 8, 9 and 10 are of natural size.
Figs. 3, 4, 5, and 6 represent at about a quarter full size a portion of the
embroidering machine, to which the printing mechanism is fitted.
Fig. 1 is an elevation of all the parts of the printing mechanism supported by the
frame B of the embroidering machine.
Fig. 2 is a section of the printing die and the supporting pad in the position they
assume when printing the fabrica.
Fig. 3 is a side elevation of the carriage P supporting the brackets B of the
embroidering machine, and shows the position of the printing device when in
operation.
Fig. 4 is a longitudinal elevation of a portion of the machine seen from the position
occupied by fabric and showing the printing dies in operation.
3
Fig. 5 is a plan of the portion of the machine represented in fig. 4. Fig. 6 is a
longitudinal elevation of the same portion of the machine seen from behind the
brackets B or in front of the fabric.
Fig. 7 shows one of the printing dies and its slides in operative position.
Hi Bic section an ling of Gaura 7.

page_text: Fig. 9 is a transverse section of the ink or colour trough and. the inking rollers
supported by the bracket bearing C.
Fig. 10 is
an elevation of a number of separate portions of the ink trough and of
the respective inking rollers supported in the ordinary bearings C.
Our embroidering machine with printing mechanism whereby simultaneous and
concordant embroidered and printed. designs are obtained, is illustrated especially in
so far as the printing meclianism is concerned, in figs. 1, 2, 7, 8, 9, and 10 of the
accompanying drawings. This mechanism consists of the following parts;—
(1). An upright a with foot a whereby it is secured by means of a screw a to the
needle.carrier frame A of the embroidering machine. This upright serves to support
an arm pivotted on trunnions as Fig. 1. Arm b resting upon foot a' is cut off at
right angles at its movable end (figs. 1 and 8) so as to form a supporting plate 6! to
which an angle iron c is attached by means of screws 62. To angle iron cslides e! are
fixed by means of screws at convenient intervals apart. (figs. 1, 7 and 8). Those
slides serve for guiding the dies e the bevelled edges of which are adapted to slide
along the guides until they meet the narrow edge of angle iron c.
In order to retain the printing dies ein their seats bars or plates c' hinged at d are
turned up against them and tightened by means of a bolt with arins fixed on to a
block or its head d and each turning on a pin fitted to one of the slides e¹.
(2). An ink vessel or trough (figs. 1, 9, and 10) attached by its hack portion to
the bearings C of the embroidering machine. Within this vessel, which is kept partly
filled with ink or colour a metal roller g turns, taking up the required amount of ink
and spreading it evenly on the cylindrical upper roller covered with cloth and
turning in peripheral contact with roller g. The blocks in which the shaft of roller h
rotates are adapted to slide within the guides of bearings ; for this purpose each
such block is constantly pressed upwards by a spring the expansion whereof may
be adjusted by means of a screw i which by pressing upon the cap of bearing i,
pushes the block downwards, thereby compressing the spring. This arrangement
of rollers g and h in conjunction with adjusting screw i enables roller / to take over
from roller g a greater or less quantity of ink or colour as required.
(3). A movable inking pad (figs. 1, 5, and 6) consisting of a rectangular frame k
the broad surface of which, turned towards bearing C is covered with cloth k. This
frame is provided on its narrow sides or edges with pins which enter grooves p¹ of
guides p situated opposite each bearing of the machine. These guides p are coupled
two and two, at the top by means of a rod p³ while their lower parts are adapted
to oscillate on trunnions turning within ears p of a piece p which is bolted
onto the frame B of the machine. The cloth of the inking pad is constantly
in contact with inking roller, for which purpose guides p. are adjustable by means
of right and left handed screwed links p and nuts p' screwed thereon. Within the
upper member or wall of frame ears are provided as shown in fig. 6, to which are
pivotted the ends of rod m from the centre of which projects an arin terminating in
an eyem which is adapted to receive the hook or projection of another connecting
rod 'n the ring of which passes into an eye o of a rigid rod o (figs. 1 and 6).
the ends of which are attached to the arms E actuating cam R of the ordinary
embroidering machine. By the hook n², the rod n may easily be disengaged from
rod m operating the, inking pad k. To bearings C pads or stops, u are fixed, the
portions of which are made of india-rubber. Each of these pads u limits the
movement of the guides p and consequently also the relative positions of inking
pad and dies e.
k
(4). A supporting pads (figs. 2 and 3) adapted to bear against the fabric precisely
opposite the printing die e. This pad is adapted to turn upon a hinge. It rests
against the angle iron through the medium of a channel iron having an aperture
in its centre for receiving the pin s projecting from a metal plates. The pad is.
formed of a cloth covering s rendered flexible by an india-rubber piece s arranged
between it and the plates. This plate presses the edges of the piece of cloth s against.

page_text: the channel iron under the action of wedge or keys which by being driven more
or less into pins fixes them with corresponding tightness. Angle iron r is supported
by an arm (fig. 3) with its auxiliary arms qq which are fixed to sides of 7.
Arm itself is supported by upright q fixed to the frame A of the bracket B opposite
to that which supports the printing, device proper.
The printing devices just described are arranged upon the upper and lower frames A
of the brackets arranged to carry them (fig. 3). They are set throughout the length
of the machine in sections or groups each filling up the space between two bearings C.
In the example illustrated in figs. 3, 4, 5 and 6 this space is supposed to be about
20 inches, and each section is assumed to comprise 17 printing dies e, all retained on
one angle iron c by slides el. The length of angle iron c corresponds to the total length of
the seats of the 17 dies. This angle iron is supported by six arin's band six uprights a.
By turning round the angle iron c in the uprights a it turns backwards simultaneously
all the dies, so that when pressure is applied to guides p the dies may be subjected to
the action of the inking pad k. The result is that all the dies of the section are
uniformly supplied with ink or colour. The ink troughs, inking rollers and pad are
also set in independent sections corresponding to the grouped dies e.
The inking
rollers are supported, in the middle, by colour trough while a bearing supported by
the bottom and walls of such trough in each section (fig. 10) affords them additiona
support.
Our combined embroidering and printing machine operates as follows;
When the arm E of the ordinary embroidering machine is set in motion, either
upward or downward, as desired, this motion is transmitted by the rigid rod or bar o
to the inking pad which is thereby moved along the inking roller and brought
opposite the printing die e when the die carrying section is turned back upon cross
piece &³ (fig. 1).
When it is desired to supply the dies e-with colour the rod p³ is pushed by hand
towards bearing until the pad meets the dies e. The India rubber portion u is
thus compressed and afterwards by its expansion is caused to readjust the normal
distance between guides p and the dies, as soon as rod p' is released from
pressure.
When the fabric is to be printed upon, all the die carrying sections are shifted by
hand in such a manner that all the printing dies are brought to a vertical position,
all in the same plane, parallel to the fabric; this operation taking placo both in the
lower (needle carrier) frame and in the upper frame (fig. 3). The supporting pads,
figs. 2 and 3 attached to the upper and lower frames of the member opposite to that
which carries the printing dies, are next turned into such a position as to bear against
the fabric from behind, right opposite the printing dies. This being done, the
carriage P (fig. 3) is made to advance in the usual way until the diese are brought
into contact with the fabric. The dies are then caused to press upon the fabric by the
impulse given to carriage P.
When it is desired not to use the printing device, it is turned back upon cross
bar 6 and links n are disengaged from cross piece or arm o which connects arms E;
hence the machine will work like any ordinary embroidering machine, i.e. it will
embroider, but do no printing.
We wish it to be understood that we do not limit ourselves to the printing device
herein before described, as the same may be replaced by any other mechanism capable
of producing, like the present arrangement, a printed design fitting in with the
embroidery obtained upon the fabric by the ordinary means, in a machine of any of
the types above referred to.
Among the equivalent printing devices, by the application of which to the embroider-
ing machines mentioned above, one whole is formed, we may here mention a printing
plate, arranged to be guided either by the present elements of ordinary embroidering
machines, or by additional machinery, in such manner, however as to always
produce printed designs concordant with such embroidery as is obtained by means of
the said machines.

page_text: Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our inven--
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we
claim is :―
1. An embroidery machine, whether working with continuous or single or dis-
continuous or multiple threads, provided with mechanism producing a printed design
in proportion as the embroidery developes, no alteration being made for the purpose
in the ordinary embroidery devices; and the result being a fabric provided with a
printed design agreeing in a predetermined and optional manner with the embroidery
substantially as described and shown in the accompanying drawings.
2. In an embroidery and printing machine obtained, as stated in the preceding
claim by the combination of an ordinary embroidering machine with printing
mechanism, producing jointly concordant printed and embroidered designs,--the said
printing mechanism substantially as described and exemplified in the accompanying
drawings.
3. The application to the types of embroidering machines hereinabove referred to,
of any other printing devices, guided either by the existing parts of those machines
or by novel attachments fitted thereto, for the purpose of obtaining concordant printed
and embroidered designs; such an application resulting in one whole mechanism
substantially as herein described.
4. A new article of manufacture consisting of a fabric embroidered and printed by
machinery and thus provided with concordant printed and embroidered designs,
substantially as described.
Dated this 20th day of September 1889
W. P. THOMPSON & BOULT,
Agents for the Applicants.