IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOBBIN NET OR LACE IN BOBBIN NET MACHINES.
Year: 1860

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Moritz Jacoby, of the Town of Nottingham, Merchant,
James Redgate, of Sneinton, in the County of Nottingham, Lace Mann-
facturer, and Joseph Stones, of the Town of Nottingham aforesaid,
Designer and Draughtsman, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE
MANUFACTURE OF BOBBIN NET OR LACE IN BOBBIN NET MACHINES.'"
Sealed the 4th October 1860, and dated the 7th June 1860.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Moritz Jacoby, James
Redgate, and Joseph Stones at the Office of the Commissioners of
Patents, with their Petition, on the 7th June 1860.
We, MORITZ JACOBY, of the Town of Nottingham, Merchant, JAMES
REDGATE, of Sneinton, in the County of Nottingham, Lace Manufacturer.
and JOSEPHI STONES, of the Town of Nottingham aforesaid, Designer and
Draughtsman, do hereby declare the nature of the Invention for "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOBBIN NET OR LACE IN BOBBIN NET MACHINES,"
to be as follows:-
This Invention has for its object improvements in the manufacture of bobbin
net or lace in bobbin net machines. For these purposes in order to produce
purl edgings in place of twisting a warp thread and a bobbin together by the
working of the lace machinery, as heretofore, in some cases two threads are
twisted together before they are introduced into the machine, which causes
them to represent the appearance of cushion purls when worked by machinery

page_text: into purls, and they are used as a single thread and by preference as a warp
thread, and these two threads so first twisted together are caused to be
worked into the head or edge of a breadth of lace in the form of loops, each
loop consisting of two threads twisted together, but twisted before being
introduced into the machine, in place of being employed as a warp and a
carriage thread and twisted together by the working of the machinery, and
in order to produce finings or tabby weavings in bobbin net or lace machines
two or more carriage threads are caused to weave with any number of warp
threads by each carriage thread passing alternately behind and before, the
succeeding warp threads and the pairs of carriage threads so used as weft
threads are caused to work or link with other warp threads external to the
weavings or finings, so that a twist is caused to be put on the pairs of carriage
threads so used as weft threads in the finings or weavings, and by means of one or
more warp or lacing threads the bobbin threads which weave the fining can
be drawn out so much more as to form them into purls. The lace may thus
be made either with these purls or those already described. This mode of
making finings or tabby weavings may be used in conjunction with, or
separate from other modes of producing tabby weavings or finings in twist
lace machines. And in order to produce a better mesh for the net we make
a net of six gates, with four gates closings and the closings of two warp
threads are looped in such a manner as to draw together the two outside
bobbin threads by means of opposite or contrary outside warps, in a similar
manner to that above described in respect to the bobbin threads used for
weaving.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Moritz Jacoby, James Redgate, and Joseph Stones, in the
Great Seal Patent Office on the 6th December 1860.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, MORITZ
JACOBY, of the Town of Nottingham, Merchant, JAMES REDGATE, of Sneinton,
in the County of Nottingham, Lace Manufacturer, and JOSEPH STONES, of the
Town of Nottingham aforesaid, Designer and Draughtsman, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Seventh day of June, in the year of our Lord 'One
thousand eight hundred and sixty, in the twenty-third year of Her reign,
did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto us, the
said Moritz Jacoby, James Redgate, and Joseph Stones, Her special licence

page_text: that we, the said Moritz Jacoby, James Redgate, and Joseph Stones, our
executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as we, the said Moritz:
Jacoby, James Redgate and Joseph Stones, our executors, administrators,
and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to
time and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should:
and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United King-
dom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an
Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOBBIN NET OR LACE IN.
BOBBIN NET MACHINES," upon the condition (amongst others) that we, the said
Moritz Jacoby, James Redgate, and Joseph Stones, our executors or adminis-
trators, by an instrument in writing under our or their hands and seals, or under
the hand and seal of one of us, or them, should particularly describe and ascertain
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be
performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office
within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said
Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that we, the said Moritz Jacoby, James Redgate, and
Joseph Stones, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascer-
tained in and by the following statement thereof, that is to say:-
This Invention has for its object improvements in the manufacture of bobbin
net or lace in bobbin net machines. For these purposes in order to produce
purl edgings in place of twisting a warp thread and a bobbin together by the
working of the lace machinery, as heretofore, in some cases two threads are
twisted together before they are introduced into the machine, which causes them
to represent the appearance of cushion purls when worked by machinery into
purls, and they are used as a single thread, and by preference as a warp thread,
and these two threads so first twisted together are caused to be worked into
the head or edge of a breadth of lace in the form of loops, each loop consisting
of two threads twisted together, but twisted before being introduced into the
machine, in place of being employed as a warp and a carriage thread and twisted
together by the working of the machinery. And in order to produce finings or.
tabby weavings in bobbin net or lace machines, two or more carriage threads.
are caused to weave with any number of warp threads by each carriage thread.
passing alternately behind and before the succeeding warp threads, and the
pairs of carriage threads so used as weft threads are caused to work or link with
other warp threads external to the weavings or finings, so that a twist is caused
to be put on the pairs of carriage threads so used as weft threads in the finings
or weavings, and by means of one or more warp or lacing threads the bobbin

page_text: threads which weave the fining can be drawn out so much more as to form
them into purls. The lace may thus be made either with these purls or
those already described. This mode of making finings or tabby weavings may
be used in conjunction with or separate from other modes of producing tabby
weavings or finings in twist lace machines. And in order to produce a better
mesh for the net, we make a net of six gates, with four gates closings, and the
closings of two warp threads are looped in such a manner as to draw together
the two outside bobbin threads by means of opposite or contrary outside warps
in a similar manner to that above described in respect to the bobbin threads
used for weaving.
Having thus stated the nature of our Invention, we will proceed more fully
to describe the manner of performing the same.
In carrying out the first part of our Invention which relates to the making
of purls to the edges of lace when working with bobbin net or twist lace
machinery, we employ two threads slightly twisted together, so as to admit of
the combined threads being used as one when working the same by bobbin
net or twist lace machinery into the edge or head of a breadth of lace, as such
breadth is progressively being made, the twisting of the two threads being only
so slight that when made into purls or loops, each such loop will clearly
appear as being composed of two threads only slightly twisted. It is preferred
to use each pair of such slightly twisted threads as a warp thread, though it
will readily be seen by a workman acquainted with the working of bobbin net
or twist lace machines, that such a pair of twisted threads might be used as a
single carriage thread when making purls or loops therewith.
In thus using a pair of threads slightly twisted as a single thread in the
production of purls or loops at the edge or head of a breadth of lace in a
bobbin net or twist lace machine, a suitable lacing thread is to be employed,
so as to hold out the loops or purls as they are produced, as is well understood,
by which means when the lace has been made and "got up," and the lacing
thread has been withdrawn, the purls or loops of the finished lace will more
completely resemble the purls of lace made by hand on the pillow, and yet the
means of obtaining such purls or loops will be more simple than when as
heretofore, in some cases made by twisting a bobbin thread and a warp
thread together, by the act of the working of bobbin net or twist lace
machinery.
Figure 1 of the Drawings annexed shews on a magnified scale two threads
slightly twisted together, and they are shewn of two different colors in order
to obtain greater distinctness in the Drawing; Figure 2 shews a loop or purl
also on a magnified scale, made of two threads slightly twisted before being

page_text: introduced into a bobbin net or twist lace machine, either as a single warp
thread or a single carriage thread.
We will now describe the second part of our Invention, which consists in-
employing any desired number of warp threads with which it is desired to
produce tabby weavings or finings in lace made in bobbin net or twist lace
machines, and causing them to be wefted by means of two carriage or bobbin
threads, which in addition to acting as weft threads, are also caused to twist
together by the aid of other warp threads external or beyond those warp
threads which combine with the two carriage or bobbin threads in producing
tabby weavings or finings. And by such twisting together of the two carriage
or bobbin threads at the edges of the weavings (wherein they have acted as
weft) a better finish is given to the weavings, as the warp threads which
partly compose such weavings are thereby better retained from separating or
spreading. The two carriage or bobbin threads which are thus used as weft
threads, and are also twisted together external of the weavings, are by the
ordinary working of the machine caused to pass alternately across the machine
from back to front, and from front to back, whilst thus acting as weft threads,
and the warp threads which weave therewith are by their respective warp
bars shogged in such manner as to stand in two rows in a direction from front
to back of the machine, so that as one of the carriages is passing across from
back to front, or from front to back of the machine, it will pass the succeeding
warp threads alternately to the right and to the left hand, then before the
other carriage passes across the machine the warp threads will be again
shogged in such manner as to close in the carriage threads just laid between
the warp threads, and thereby the warp threads will be caused to open a fresh
shed or passage between them for the other carriage thread, which will then
be shut in by the warp threads being again shogged. And in addition to thus
acting as weft threads with a series of warp threads, each of the carriage.or.
bobbin threads is caused to link with two other warp threads, one at each side
or edge of the piece of weaving, such outer warp threads being shogged in
order to cause such linking, and by the straightening out of such warp threads
the two carriage threads will be drawn round or are caused to twist around
each other.
Figure 3 of the Drawings annexed shows on a magnified scale a diagram of
two bobbin or carriage threads a, a, caused to link with the warp thread b
each time of passing out from the warp threads of the weaving, and by reason
of their being thus linked with a warp thread b on each side or edge of the
weaving, such carriage or bobbin threads will when the warp threads bare
drawn tight cause the two carriage threads to be drawn or twisted round cach

page_text: other, as is indicated in Figure 4, where à magnified piece of weaving made
by the conjoined use of a series of warp threads c, c, are wefted by a pair of
carriage or bobbin threads a, a, the warp threads b (shewn in Figure 3) used in
producing the twists in the carriage or bobbin threads at a', a', not being shown
in this diagram. This mode of putting twist on to two bobbin threads used as
weft threads to weave together several warp threads, is peculiarly suitable for
making a continued tabby weaving or fining, near the edge or head of a
breadth of twist lace made in bobbin net or twist lace machines, as by such
means laces are produced very closely resembling Valenciennes laces which
are made by hand on the pillow; at the same time such mode of working
may be resorted to with advantage when making ornamental weavings in
other parts of twist lace made in bobbin net or twist lace machines. From
the above description a workman will understand the nature of this part of
our Invention, and he will readily perceive that more than one pair of carriage
or bobbin threads may be similarly worked in making a breadth of lace. And
when using two carriage threads as weft threads at or near the head or edge
of a breadth of lace, such carriage or bobbin threads may be linked around
and be held out by a lacing thread so as to form a loop of purls, as is
indicated by the magnified diagram, Figure 5. It should be stated that
although other grounds of lace may be made when carrying out this part of
our Invention, we prefer, in order to produce a better mesh for the net, to
make a net of six gates with four gates closings, and the closings of the two
warp threads are looped in such a manner as to draw together the two outside
bobbin threads, by means of opposite or contrary outside warps in a similar
manner to that described in respect to the carriage or bobbin threads used as
weft threads for weaving, and this will readily be understood by reference to
the magnified diagram, Figure 6, where x, x, represent six carriage threads;
y, y, are warp threads, which, for distinction, are colored red; z is another
warp thread, which, for distinction, is colored blue, and this warp thread in
addition to working with the two central carriage threads, also at intervals
links alternately with the two outer pairs of carriage threads. The warp
threads y, y, also in addition to working with the two outer pairs of carriage
threads, also at intervals link with the two central carriage threads; 21, 21, are
two other warps which work with neighbouring pairs of carriage threads,
and they also at intervals link respectively with the outer pairs of carriage
threads x, . The warp threads indicated by dotted lines act as, but in a
contrary direction to, the warp threads of the same pillars.
Having thus described the nature of our said Invention, and the manner of
performing the same, we would have it understood that what we claim is,―

page_text: First, the manufacture of lace in twist lace or bobbin net machines with loops
or purls composed of pairs of threads twisted together, before being introduced
into the machinery and used as single warp or carriage threads, as above
explained.
And, secondly, we claim the manufacture of lace in twist lace or bobbin net
machines by causing pairs of bobbin or carriage threads to work as weft
threads, and to be twisted together externally of the weavings, and also to be
twisting together when making the ground or meshes and purls of the laces,
as above explained.
In witness whereof, we, the said Moritz Jacoby, James Redgate, and
Joseph Stones, have hereunto set our hands and seals, this Twenty-
seventh day of November, in the year of our Lord One thousand eight
hundred and sixty
MORITZ JACOBY. (L.S.)
JAMES REDGATE. (L.S.)
JOSEPH STONES. (L.S)