IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES AND SIMILAR ARTICLES, AND IN MACHINERY USED THEREIN, ENTITLED METALLIC TOOTHED AND WEDGED SEAMS, AND WATERPROOF ELASTIC INDENTED STITCHES
Year: 1852

page_text: PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by John James Stoll at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
25th October 1852.
I, JOHN JAMES STOLL, of the Palace, Enfield, in the County of
Middlesex, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention or
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES AND SIMILAR
ARTICLES, AND IN MACHINERY USED THEREIN, ENTITLED METALLIC TOOTHED
AND WEDGED SEAMS, AND WATERPROOF ELASTIC INDENTED STITCHES,"
be as follows, and to consist of
to
1°. The manufacture of boots, shoes, clogs, and similar articles with
metallic toothed seams composed of metallic toothed stitches, which are
formed of one, two, three, or any number of parts, fixed by means of
the principle of the wedge or of the lever, into holes prepared for that
purpose through the soles, the upper leather, and the first or inner
soles. These various parts of my stitches may every one of them be
toothed or indented, or only one or two of them may be so, and the
others quite smooth, and their jointings may have all sorts of shapes or
formus, but the triangular jointing seems the best; and when it is

page_text: covered with a light coating of gutta percha, caoutchouc, wax, etc., or
of a solution of one or several of these matters, the seams are perfectly
impermeable. The shape or form of these or any of my teeth may
so infinitely vary; however, I prefer the semi-circular or the triangular
form.
2. The manufacture of boots, shoes, clogs, and similar articles with
hollow cylindrical toothed or indented stitches of all sorts of shapes or
configurations, which are introduced in the holes in the same manner
as the above metallic toothed & wedged stitches, that is to say, by
means of the principle of the wedge or of the lever, and whose empty
space is filled by a nail or piece of iron or other metal of the same
shape as the cylinders. This nail or piece of metal may also receive a
slight coating of any of the above-mentioned matters.
4°. Use and application of cylindrical toothed stitches, or of water-
proof clastic indented stitches, in order to attach, join, or fix together
the tops of boots or half boots and the upper leather of shoes, etc.
•
5°. The alternative use and application in the manufacture of boots,
shoes, and similar articles, of one metallic toothed and wedged, one
cylindrical hollow indented, and one waterproof clastic toothed stitch,
according to the degree of solidity or impermeability which the seams
are to have.
6°. The use and application in the manufacture of boots and shoes
and of such like articles, of only one or of two parts of the metallic
toothed stitches, and of the hollow cylindre alone, without the nail, the
empty space in both being filled with one, several, or all the waterproof
matters mentioned in Art. 3º, of the waterproof elastic indented
stitches.
7°. The use and application in the manufacture of boots and shoes,
and in order to fix the toothed metallic wedged, the cylindrical in-
dented, and the waterproof elastic toothed stitches, of a steel sole
composed of small flat bands or thongs of steel, the ends of which
terminate into hooks, to which are fixed strong thongs of caoutchouc
which have their opposite ends fixed to other hooks in the floor or on
the frame or vice. Between these ribbons of steel there is a space
sufficient to admit the awl to make the necessary holes, which by

page_text: these means may be made, if desired, at lesser or greater distances
from either the edge or the centre of the soles.
8°. The use in the manufacture of boots and shoes, and in order to
render the sole leather more firm and smooth, and instead of beating
the oxen hides as the shoemakers usually do, of two rollers of metal
or of wood fixed one upon another, or one at the side of the other,
whose axletrees enter into half moons made in the centre of long
wooden or iron bars, at the end of which are fixed very strong bands
or thongs of caoutchouc whose elasticity produces on the leather, often
of different thickness and various surfaces, a regular pression which
becomes everywhere the same. If wooden rollers are used they
should be covered or surrounded with a strong sheet of hard metal-or
of thick gutta percha.
9. The use and application with the waterproof elastic indented
stitches of gutta percha soles without any solution, but merely by
heating the surface of these stitches, and then applying the gutta percha
DESCRIPTION.
Boots and Shoes with Metallic Toothed and Wedged Seams and
Waterproof Elastic Indented Stitches, is the title given to a new inven-
tion or contrivance, whose object is to substitute to hemp and wax and
to brass screws indented or toothed stitches, which, by means of the
principle of the wedge or of the lever, cause their teeth to penetrate
horizontally into the leather when the percussion takes place, and join
in this manner two or several pieces of leather, gutta percha, or any
stuff of which the upper parts of shoes and boots are usually made in a
far more solid manner than could be done with either the screws of
metal or the best workman making use of hemp and wax. These
stitches are composed of one, two, or several parts, and their shapes or
forms can vary infinitely, as well as their teeth, which can represent
either half a circle or a triangle, or even a point like that of a pin or
nail, or flat like that of a sword, or have only some resemblance to
them, the principle for fixing them being always the same, that of the
wedge or of the lever.

page_text: The stitches composed of three parts seem best when, if joined
together, their tops resemble an oval. The first part, or No. 1, pre-
sents on one side a surface almost half round, and strongly indented or
toothed, and on the other a smooth convex triangular surface. The
second part, or No. 2, has on one side a triangular concave, and on
the other convex surface. These two surfaces are perfectly smooth and
fit exactly the other parts of the stitch. The third part, or No. 3, has
on one side a triangular concave, and on the other convex surface, and
also exactly fits the other parts or pieces. The convex side of this
part has a toothed or indented surface like the first part of the stitch,
or No. 1, and on the other a smooth triangular concave surface. The
jointing of these different parts must not necessarily be triangular; it
may be angular, or rounded, or quite flat, or flat with the exception of
a small groove and tenon, which can be made of various shapes, even
such as would effectually prevent the pieces from ever getting loose.
With the first part of the stitch we may use, for light boots and
shoes, one single or two quite smooth parts, or use a part similar in
everything to the third part except the teeth, which, instead of being
perfectly horizontal, form an angle like the teeth of a saw.
In this case the first part is introduced and fixed in the leather by
means of an instrument with the principle of the wedge or of the
lever, made for that purpose; and when the instrument is taken out
there remains an empty space, rather smaller than the third part, or
No. 8, of the stitch, which is forced into it by percussion, and whose
angular teeth present no obstacle to its being introduced in the empty
space, although, if once introduced, and filling exactly the empty space,
the extension which the stitches cause on the leather bring the fibres
on the upper part, that is to say, on the most angular part of the
teeth, and prevent this part from ever getting out of its place; the
same thing is done to No. 2, when it is used with stitches composed of
three parts.
The two sides which come in contact with the leather of the soles
have small angular teeth, similar to those of a saw, upon the upper and
angular part of which the fibres of the leather force themselves as it
gradually dries
up. The different parts of a stitch can also consist of

page_text: different metals, or only be a composition of them by alloy. Copper,
brass, tin, zinc, iron, etc. seem to suit best, according to the solidity
which the seams are to have.
In order to render the metallic stitches and seams waterproof the
different parts of a stitch are, with the exception of the teeth; covered
with a thin coating of either gutta percha, caoutchouc, or wax, or of a
mixture of them. The part No. 2, well covered with a thin coating of
gutta percha, of wax, marine glue, caoutchouc, or of a solution of one
or several of these matters, is sufficient to prevent the water and all
moisture from penetrating through the seams.
If only the part No. 1, or the part No. 3, is to be used for lighter
boots and shoes, I cause the one or the other of these parts, as the case
may be, to enter the leather (having first made the necessary holes
with the awl) by means of an instrument, which I take out when I
have made sure that the teeth of that part of the stitch have properly
penetrated along the side of the hole; and I fill afterwards the empty
space left with a solution. or rather composition, of sawdust, of very
dry wood, or of leather, of gutta percha, caoutchouc, wax, marine
glue, etc.
This composition or solution can be formed of one, several, or all
these matters, with different proportions, according to the different
degrees of consistence, elasticity, or impermeability which it is desirable
it should have.
For the seams of still lighter boots and shoes, and especially for
those of ladies, and also for joining or fixing the different parts of the
upper leather or of the tops of boots, I make use of hollow cylindrical
stitches, likewise toothed or indented. These hollow cylindres or tubes
may also have all sorts of shapes, round, oval, square, triangular, etc.,
or nearly so, according to the taste or fancy of the manufacturer.
These cylinders or tubes are all open on one side from top to bottom, and
their teeth can vary and go either all round, or present themselves only
on one, two, or more sides, and have, like all other teeth used in my
seams, any kind of shapes or forms, even that of a fishing hook, so that
if the tooth has once penetrated in the leather it can never get ont
without tearing it.
14
144

page_text: These teeth also penetrate into the leather horizontally by means of
an instrument representing always either the principle of the wedge or
that of the lever. When the teeth seem to have properly penetrated
and fixed themselves into the leather I force into the hollow of the
cylindre a nail of one of the metals mentioned above, which nail must
perfectly well fill the empty space, and be of the same shape as the
metallic cylindre; and in order to render these sorts of stitches water-
proof I follow the same rules as with the other stitches, and one can
also, instead of nails, fill all the empty space of the hollow cylindre with
one or several of the soluble matters mentioned in the other stitches.
The waterproof clastic indented or toothed stitches are formed of
stitches of one, several, or all the soluble and impermeable matters
mentioned in the metallic toothed seams, which are mixed together in
proportion and according to the solidity or impermeability which the
boots or shoes are to have, and which are run in a state of fusion, or
melted into toothed or indented holes prepared by an instrument which
penetrates from end to end through the sole or soles, the upper leather
and the inner soles.
This instrument, by means of of the principle of the wedge, presses
into the leather, the linings, soles, etc., the incision of horizontal teeth,
which, as in the metallic toothed stitches, can have all sorts of shapes,
and ressemble a half circle, a triangle, the point of a nail, etc. The
form or shape of the principal hole which this instrument pierces
through the soles and upper leather can also infinitely vary, and be
either round, oval, square, or triangular, and be larger at the two ends
than in the middle, or the contrary. These holes could also be made by
means of screws, which are taken out before the waterproof elastic
indented stitches are inelted into them. The method of waterproof
elastic toothed stitches is also used by the author or inventor for joining,
fixing, and attaching the tops of boots and half boots, and the upper
leather of shoes.
The lasts which are used for boots and shoes with metallic toothed
seams or waterproof elastic indented stitches, can be made of cast
or wrought metal, but if they should be of wood they must have on
their lower surface a thick sheet of iron, steel, or other metal screwed

page_text: and in the shape of a sole, which must have three openings, one in the
centre or under the in-step, the other under the heel, and the third
nearly under the toes, to admit the nails which are to fix or hold the
inner sole to the last before the upper leather is fixed and attached
to it.
The awl which is used to pierce the principal holes must have every-
where the same thickness, and the point must be sharply formed, so
that only a very small part, of the point should entirely penetrate the
inner sole, and that sufficiently only to warn the workman that the end
of the point of the awl touches the metal sole of the last, and that he
must not drive it further. In this manuer the points which are
introduced in these holes do not get quite through, and may become,
if desired, invisible in the inner part of the boot or shoe, and conse-
quently cannot wound the feet, which often happens with brass screwed
boots and shoes.
With regard to the manufacture of boots and shoes, after having
fixed the upper leather and the inner sole to the last, it is fixed on a
vice, which presses it on the upper part, and holds it in a firm and
immovable manner, or on a suitable frame.
The sole or soles, according to the thickness they are to have, or to
the solidity which the boots or shoes must have, are then placed upon
it, and on these is fixed a sole, formed of small blades or ribbons of
steel, which become thimer.as they get more distant from the centre of
the sole. These blades have some ressemblance to the bones of a fish;
but they are flat, like the blade of a knife, and stretching out from the
centre of the sole, like the bones do from the back of a fish. The ends
of these blades or ribbons are formed like hooks, to which very strong
thongs of caoutchouc are fixed, and which have their opposite ends
also tied or fixed to other hooks at the bottom of the vice or on the
floor or frame.
By these means the pression on the soles becomes considerable and
regular, and can be either increased or diminished, according to the
extension which is given to the thongs of caoutchouc. Between these
blades there are openings sufficiently wide to admit the awl to make
the holes, and to finish either the metallic toothed or waterproof elastic

page_text: indented seams, and by means of these openings the workman is
enabled to make holes on places more or less distant from the centre
or the edge of the sole.
In order to render the sole leather firmer and smoother, instead of
beating it as shoemakers do with a hammer, the Inventor makes use
of two rollers of metal or of wood, placed one upon another, or one
close to the other. If wooden rollers are used, they should be sur-
rounded completely on their surface with a very strong sheet of metal
or of gutta percha.
The axle-trees of these rollars enter into half moons or half round
openings made for that purpose on the centre of long wooden and iron
bars, whose ends are fixed or attached by very strong thongs of
caoutchouc, which hold the ends of the bars strongly fixed one to the
other. It would be almost sufficient to employ bars for the axle-trees
of only one rollar, and have the other fixed in the usual manner.
the thickness of the hides becomes unequal over almost all their
surface, the elasticity of the thongs of caoutchouc causes the rollars to
yield as the leather becomes thicker, although the pression is equally
felt everywhere.
As