Improvements in and relating to Articles of Jewelry.
Year: 1895

page_text: Date of Application, 15th Jan., 1895-Accepted, 16th Feb., 1895
COMPLETE DIECIFICATION.
Improvements in and relating to Articles of Jewelry.
I, EMIL SCHILL, of No. 58 Warwick Street, Newark, County of Essex, and
State of New Jersey, United States of America, Jeweller, do hereby declare the
nature of my invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
My invention relates to a new method of securing together the several parts of
the settings of clusters, used in rings, especially such as are known as the marquise
ring, and other jewelry in general, as stick or scarf pins, and the invention consists,
in first partially producing or partially striking up the design in the separate parts
to be made into the piece of jewelry; secondly, in soldering or otherwise securing
these parts together, in the manner to be hereinafter fully described; and finally
finishing the design by engraving or otherwise.
As will be hereinafter understood, my new method of securing the parts com-
prising the piece of jewelry is applicable to all classes of cluster ornamentation or
settings for precious stones; is furthermore applicable to all kinds of metals and
is not limited to any particular design or designs, nor to any particular shape or
outline.
The invention is illustrated in the accompanying sheet of drawings, in which :-
Figure 1 is a side view and Figure 2 a top view of a ring made in conformity
with the principles of my invention, said ring being of the class known as the
marquise ring.
Figures 3, 4 and 5 are detail views of the side pieces of the ring illustrated in
said Figures 1 and 2, and Figure 6 is a plan or top view of the centre piece in
which the clusters of precious stones are set.
Figure 7 is a vertical section taken on line a in Figure 2.
Figures 8, 9, 10, 11, 12 and 13 are several views of scarf or stick pins and details
of construction thereof, illustrating the adaptability of the present invention to
other forms of jewelry.
1 will first describe my invention in connection with the manufacture of cluster
rings, as illustrated in Figures 1 to 7 inclusive.
In carrying out my method, two metal blanks a, substantially of the shape and
form illustrated in Figures 3 and 4, and which may be made of any suitable metal,
are first subjected to the action of a die, the purpose of which is to partially
form thereon the design intended to be imparted to the supporting frame of the
ring, and by means of the die the blanks are formed or bent, in the case of a
marquise ring, crescent-shape, as illustrated in said Figure 4.
Two of these blanks are then placed together, as indicated in Figure 5, their
ends a¹ and a² being secured together by solder.
I next take a blank band strike it up in the form illustrated in Figure 6, said
blank being provided with the settings for the stones, forming a centre piece, as
will be evident.
This centre piece b is then placed between the two side pieces a, in such a
manner that the surrounding edge of the centre piece & will come flush with the
upper edges a³ of the two side pieces a, said parts being soldered together at their
abutting edges, as will be understood from an inspection of Figure 7.

page_text: The edges of both said side pieces a and the centre piece b, soldered together, as
stated, are now cut or filed away to form the cramps at on the side pieces a and
cramps 62 on the centre piece b, in any desirable ornamentation and for the purpose
of holding the precious stones in the surrounding cluster.
The centre piece is preferably provided near its marginal rim with a row of
holes 6, into which the workman can cut or file, to remove part of the surrounding
surface of the centre piece, and this enables him to form the cramps ¿² in a very
rapid manner.
The band or ring portion c is firmly secured to the sides of the pieces a in the
usual manner.
C
As will be seen from Figures 8 to 13 inclusive, the principle of my invention is
applicable to other forms of jewelry, such as scarf or stick pins, in which but one
side piece a is used in connection with the centre piece of any suitable configuration
in outline.
The parts are formed and secured together in precisely the same manner as
illustrated in connection with the ring shown in said Figure 1 and 2.
The edges of the centre piece b, see Figures 10 and 13, are placed flush with
the edges a³ of the correspondingly shaped side piece b, see Figures 9 and 12, and
the parts soldered together at their adjoining edges.
The cramps are formed in precisely the same manner as has been stated in
the above.
It will be understood that this method of making settings for clusters for jewelry
is not limited to any particular kind or character of metal and instead of forming
the several parts by means of a die and partially forming the design in outline
thereon by a die, said parts can be made by hand, if desired, and the design may
be engraved or otherwise formed.
The method is applicable to any shape or form of rings and to any class of
jewelry in general.
By my novel method, this class of jewelry is much lighter and the frame-work
for the precious stones can be quickly and safely secured together and can be made
with considerable less expense to the manufacturer, being a great saving in time
and labor.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. The method herein before described of producing jewelry, consisting in first,
forming a side piece, as a, with a design in outline thereon; secondly, forming a
centre piece, as b; thirdly, soldering said centre piece to the side piece, so that the
upper surface of the centre piece and the upper edge of the side piece are flush;
and finally, forming the cramps on said side piece and said centre piece, all
substantially as and for the purposes set forth.
2. The method herein before described of producing jewelry, consisting in first,
forming side pieces, as a, with a design in outline thereon; secondly, shaping said
side pieces crescent-shape; thirdly, soldering two of said side pieces together at their
ends; fourthly, forming a centre piece, as b; fifthly, placing said centre piece
between said soldered side pieces and soldering said centre piece to said side pieces,
so that the upper surface of the centre piece and the upper edge of the side
pieces are flush; and finally, forming cramps on said side pieces and said centre
piece, substantially as and for the purposes set forth.
3. The method herein before described of producing jewelry, consisting in first,
forming a side piece, as a, with a design in outline thereon; secondly, forming a
centre piece, as b, and providing said centre piece with holes 6 near the edge;
thirdly, soldering said centre piece to the side piece, so that the upper surface of
the centre piece and upper edge of the side piece are flush; and finally, filing or
cutting-away the edges of said centre piece and side piece into the holes, to form

page_text: holding cramps for the jewels of the piece of jewelry, all substantially as and for
the purposes set forth.
n: 10th dox of December 1894.
Haseltine, Lake & Co.,
45, Southampton Buildings, London, W.C., Agents for the Applicant.