improvements in the manufacture or Boot and Shoe Uppers.
Year: 1884

page_text: improvements in the manufacture or Boot and Shoe Uppers.
I, SAMUEL CHAMBERLAIN, of 5 Wintoun Street, Leeds, in the County of York,
Traveller, do hereby declare the nature of said invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOT AND SHOE "UPPERS" to be as follows: —
My invention relates to the manufacture of boot and shoe"
uppers" and
particularly of the part known as the "hind quarter" of an "upper," which part
according to my invention is made of butt-leather in one piece, cut to shape in the
flat, blocked to form and afterwards attached to the other parts forming the
remaining portions of the "upper."
By making the hind quarter of the material and in the manner above set forth,
whilst the necessary stiffness combined with sufficient pliability is retained, several
advantages are obtained, including reduction in cost, increased comfort to the
wearer and considerably greater durability as compared with bind-quarters as
heretofore usually made in several parts, furthermore the usual back seam and the-
use of a stiffener and counter are dispensed with.
Dated this 27th day of November 1884

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Boot and Shoe Uppers.
I, SAMUEL CHAMBERLAIN, of 5, Wintoun Street, Leeds, in the County of York,
Traveller, do hereby declare the nature of said invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOT AND SHOE UPPERS," and in what manner the same
is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement :—
My invention relates to the manufacture of boot and shoe uppers, and particularly
of the part known as the hind-quarter thereof. This part according to my
invention I make of butt-leather, in one piece, cut to shape in the flat state and
blocked to form, and afterwards attached to the other parts forming the remaining
portions of the upper.
By making the hind quarter of the material and in the manner above set forth,
whilst the necessary stiffness combined with sufficient pliability is retained, several
advantages are obtained, including reduction in cost, increased comfort to the
wearer and considerably greater durability as compared with hind quarters as
heretofore usually made in several parts or thicknesses; furthermore the usual back
seam and the use of a stiffener and counter are dispensed with.
In the accompanying drawings, Fig. 1 shews in the flat state a full sized hind
quarter A, according to my invention, cut to shape previous to being blocked to
form as shewn in Figs. 2, and 3.
This passes around the heel, having no back seam, and being of sufficient
thickness immediately around the heel part and from a to b, upwards, not to
require to be thickened by any additional material in the form of a stiffener or
counter.
This hind quarter as shewn in Figs. 1, 2, and 4, continues in one piece to the top
of a boot as shewn at a to c, but this is not absolutely necessary so long as the
main object of my invention be attained, namely, the dispensing. with the back
seam, stiffener, and counter as above described.
Figs. 5, and 6, shew modifications in the application of the improved hind
quarter, which, while fulfilling all the above requirements may have the part from b,
to c, Fig. 1, which may be even higher when required, of a separate piece or pieces,
and of thinner and pliable material, either wholly of leather or cloth, or a com-
bination of leather and cloth.
In shoes the hind quarters may terminate as shewn in Fig. 7.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is
1. In the manufacture of boot and shoe uppers, dispensing with the usual back
seams, stiffeners and counters by the use of hind quarters formed and applied

page_text: substantially as and in the manner hereinabove described and illustrated in the
drawings.
2. The new or improved hind quarter for boot and shoe uppers hereinabove
described and shewn in the drawings.
3. The improved boot and shoe uppers shewn in and described with reference
respectively to Fig. 4, Fig. 5, Fig. 6, and Fig. 7. of the drawings.
Dated this 17th day of August 1885.
Witness:
THOS E. CRAVEN,
Fellow Inst. Patent Agents,
24, Victoria Chambers, Leeds.
SAMUEL CHAMBERLAIN.
W. Lloyd Wise,
46, Lincoln's Inn Fields, London, W.C.,
Applicant's Agent.
°