Year: 1887

page_text: Date of Application, 15th June, 1887
Complete Left, 14th Mar., 1888
Complete Accepted, 6th Apr., 1888
[Communicated from abroad by THE NATIONAL MACHINE COMPANY (Incorporated),
of Troy, in the State of New York, United States of America.]
I, HENRY EDWARD NEWTON, of the Office for Patents, 6 Bream's Buildings,
Chancery Lane in the County of Middlesex, Civil Engineer, do hereby declare the
nature of this invention to be as follows:-
The object of this invention is to adapt lock stitch sewing machines of well known
types to the production of button holes.
In describing the improvements, I will suppose that the sewing machine employed
for carrying out the object of the invention is one of the well known sewing machines,
in which motion is transmitted to the needle bar through an upper horizontal rotating
shaft.
It is well known that if a vertically reciprocating eyepointed needle is used for
sewing button holes, the work must not only be fed continuously up to the needle, but
reciprocated so as to spread the stitches laterally to produce what is known as the
"bite," and when one side of the button hole is stitched, the work has either to be
turned round or shifted to bring the opposite edge of the button hole under the action
of the needle.
To effect these movements, the following contrivance is fitted to the table of the
machine. On a base plate made fast to the table, a change plate is mounted in fixed
guides. This change plate consists of a T-shaped slotted piece, the tail of the T
sliding in guides, and the slot in the head of the T serving as a guide for a block
carried by the work plate.-The work plate is slotted at its forward end, and overlies
the throat plate of the table.-Hinged to this work plate is a spring clamp, which
closes upon the work, and holds it firmly to the work plate. This clamp consists
merely of an open frame with teeth for entering the work, and it thus leaves the
needle free to pass through the work, and also for the cutting instrument which slits
the button holes to descend through it and act upon the cloth held fast to the work

page_text: plate. The work is fed under the needle by means of a rotating crank plate keyed to
a short vertical axle which projects through the base plate, and has its bearings
therein.
Keyed to the lower end of this axle, and recessed into the underside of the base
plate, is a grooved cam for reversing the lateral movements of the work plate, as
hereafter described.
The face of the crank plate is grooved across its centre to receive a sliding block,
which is connected with the block of the work plate by means of a connecting rod.
This sliding block in the crank plate is adjustable for the purpose of lengthening or
shortening the throw of the crank as desired.-On the periphery of the crank plate,
spur teeth are cut, which gear into a spur pinion suspended from a bracket on
the bed plate. This pinion receives a variable motion from a ratchet wheel which
is actuated by a pawl carried by a reciprocating lever arm connected with the under,
or rock shaft of the sewing machine.-The ratchet wheel is fitted with a loose
excentric stud grooved to receive a radial finger made fast to the pinion.-As, there-
fore, the ratchet wheel rotates, its stud will be constantly varying its position with
respect to the centre of motion of the pinion, and will thereby impart to it a variable
axial motion, which motion, being transmitted to the spur toothed crank plate, will
ensure an equable feed being imparted to the cloth or work plate.
While this feeding action is proceeding, it is necessary to traverse the work laterally
under the needle a distance equal to the bite or length of the lapped stitch to be
formed. For this purpose the change plate is pivotted by a lug and pin to a vertical
rock lever which has a constant reciprocating motion imparted to it by a grooved
cam on the cam shaft.-This rock lever is fulcrummed on the stud of a sliding bar
working under the base plate, and by reason of its connections with the change plate,
the reciprocating motion requisite for causing the needle to strike alternately in one
or other of two lines of the work, and lay its thread so as to form the "bite," will be
produced.
Jointed to the sliding bar is a rock lever pivotted to the underside of the base plate,
and carrying a bowl which enters the groove of the cam mentioned above as keyed to
the axle of the crank plate.
When the crank plate has completed a half rotation, the cam on its axlo will,
through the rock lever in connection therewith, shift the position of the sliding bar,
and consequently, by its connection, through the vertical rock lever, with the change
plate, shift that plate, together with the work plate, under the needle, so that the
needle, at its next descent, will operate on the opposite side of the button hole.-At
the time this shifting of the work occurs, the direction of the feed will be reversed,
the crank plate, in completing its rotation, causing the work plate to retrace its
movement.
In order to improve the working of the button hole, and to introduce a pearling at
the edge, there is placed over the feeding appliance just described, a bridge piece
which serves to carry a thread-laying mechanism.-The main feature of this
mechanism is a thread layer which laps a thread around the needle thread while at
tension, and thereby effects the interlacing of those threads, the tension of the
introduced thread being such as to ensure the interlacings of the threads being laid
at the edge of the work. The thread layer is a horizontal cranked rod mounted in a
bearing on a sliding plate. It is fitted with a radial arm, and its position is governed
by two counteracting helical springs attached to a second arm of the thread layer, and
connecting it to two fixed points. The radial arm of the thread layer is caused to
bear on one or other of a pair of cam surfaces fixed opposite each other, for the
purpose, when the thread layer is moved endwise, of giving it an axial rocking motion.
The plate which carries the thread layer slides in guides on the bridge piece, and is
actuated by an arm projecting from a vertical rock shaft supported on the bridge
piece. The upper end of this rock shaft carries a short arm to which is pivotted a
link rod that connects it with the vertical rock lever before mentioned.
As, therefore, this lever rocks, a compound end way and axial motion will be
imparted to the thread layer, and the thread which it carries will be laid around the

page_text: taut needle thread. As the needle thread is alternately raised through the cloth and
through the button hole, a repetition of the motions of the thread layer will cause it to
lay its thread in serpentine fashion round the needle thread, and the tension put upon
this introduced thread will secure the proper placing of the interlacings on the edge
of the fabric. The sliding plate which carries the thread layer is made capable of
lateral movement for the purpose of bringing the radial arın of the thread layer into
contact with one or other of the cam surfaces before mentioned. For placing the
sliding plate in the proper position for starting, a hand lever is provided which is
fulcrummed on the bridge piece, and connected through a slot and pin with the
sliding plate. A pressure spring acting against the pressure of the hand lever, serves
to return the sliding plate to the position from which it was moved by the lever, and
thereby throw the radial arm of the thread layer into contact with the opposite cam
surface.
When the hand lever is put into action, a spring stop rises against the side of the
sliding plate, to maintain it in its set position, which position it will retain until one
side of the button hole is completed. At this moment, a cam on the crank plate before
mentioned will come under the tail of the spring stop, throw it up, and release the
sliding plate, thereby enabling the spring of the hand lever to impart a lateral motion
to the sliding plate, and reverse the action of the thread layer.
This reversal of its action is necessary, as the direction of the feed is reversed to
enable the needle to act upon the opposite side of the button hole.
This new position of the parts permits of the thread layer laying its thread on the
opposite side of the needle thread to that presented to it before the feed was reversed.
Thus, both sides of the button hole will have the pearl edge worked upon them
when this additional appliance is brought into use.
The sewing of the button hole by means of the appliances above described may bo
effected before or after the cutting of the button-hole is made.
To adapt the button-hole stitch mechanism to "tacking," that is, stitching, for
example, across the pocket seams of trousers, it will only be necessary to disengage
the sliding fulcrum bar from connection with the grooved cam on the axle of the crank
plate the pearling mechanism being either removed or disconnected from the vertical
rock lever which gives motion to the feed gear.
The cutting of the button hole is effected by the descent of a knife fitted to the
bar, the presser foot being removed, as its service is not required.-The knife bar
receives an axial motion for the purpose of turning the blade aside, when not in
requisition, clear of the working parts.-This bar is fitted at its upper end with a
feather, and it passes through a short arm or key plate which carries a stud pin.
This stud pin is embraced by the forked extremity of a latch bar, the rear end of
which overlies a stud carried by the vertical rock lever before mentioned. The rear
end of this latch bar is supported clear of the stud by the squared end of a vertical
arm fixed to a horizontal rock shaft which has pivotted to it an arm extending to the
crank plate before mentioned. A stud on this crank plate coming under the arm of
the rock shaft, at the completion of the sewing of a button hole, will actuate the rock
shaft, and trip its vertical arın from under the latch bar. This bar will then drop,
and lock onto the stud of the vertical rock lever.
At the next vibration of this lever, an axial motion will be imparted to the cutter
bar, to bring its blade into line with the button hole. This axial movement of the
cutter bar will cause a projection which it carries to interlock with the needle bar,
which bar, on its next descent, will bring down the blade, and force it through the
work, thereby slitting the cloth between the two ridges or pearlings worked around the
button hole.
For automatically stopping the machine, a vertical spring bolt is provided for
locking into a notched plate keyed upon the cam shaft. Pivotted to the lower end of
this bolt is the arm of a rock shaft mounted below the table of the machine. Keyed
to this rock shaft is a cranked lever, one end of which projects towards the front of
the machine, and is held up by the tail of a horizontal trip lever (fulcrummed on the
table of the machine).-The other end of this cranked lever is connected to a treadle,

page_text: the depression of which draws down the spring bolt, and forces the cranked lever of
the rock shaft over the tail of the trip lever, thereby retaining the spring bolt in
its unlocked position. The automatic stopping of the machine is effected by a pin
pendent from the underside of the crank plate, which pin strikes against the head of
the horizontal trip lever, at every rotation of the crank plate, on the completion of a
button hole, thereby releasing the catch of the rock lever, and allowing the
spring bolt to be thrown upwards so as to interlock with the notched plate on the
cam shaft.
In order to drive the machine frictionally, and to provide a slight brake action
during the stopping of the machine, a hand wheel and driving speed pulley is
provided. Both are mounted loosely on a flanged sleeve running freely on the outer
end of the cam shaft. The flange of this sleeve abuts against the keyed notched plate,
and is correspondingly notched. This flange is provided with a segmental slot to
allow a stud carried by the keyed notched plate to pass through and interlock
with clutch teeth formed on the boss of the hand wheel, when the boss of that
wheel is forced forwards into contact with the flange on the sleeve, on which it is
capable of being slidden.
The outer side of the hand wheel is recessed to receive a ring of India rubber or
equivalent material, against which the roughened surface of the boss of the speed
band pulley (also loose upon the flanged sleeve) is brought to bear by the pressure of
a vertical rock lever fulcrummed upon the bracket standard of the machine. The
upper arm of this lever bears on the outer end of the boss of the speed pulley, and its
lower end underlies a pin on the spring bolt. Thus, on the withdrawal of the spring
bolt, the upper end of the vertical rock lever will be caused to push the speed pulley
into frictional contact with the hand wheel, and that wheel also will be pushed forward,
and caused to interlock with the stud of the notched plate, when the machine will
commence running.
On the advance of the spring bolt, the interlocking of the bolt with the notches of
the keyed notched plate and the flange will be momentarily resisted, by reason of
the notches of the plate and flange not being in coincidence during the running of the
machine.
This will continue until the friction of the bolt on the periphery of the notched
plate and the flange brings their notches into coincidence, when the bolt will interlock
and stop the machine.
A further feature of the invention consists in releasing the tension of the needle
thread automatically when the button hole is finished, and thereby allowing of a
sufficient length of thread being drawn off by the act of shifting the work. This is
effected by means of a wedge pointed rock lever mounted near the tension dises, and
operated by a pin on the spring clamp, which pin plays in a slot in the tail end of the
rock lever. Thus, the act of raising the clamp to release the work will cause the
rock lever to part the tension discs, and release the needle thread from their
pressure.
As it is desirable that the work shall finish always at the same point in the button
hole, and that there should be a lap at the completion of the stitching, it follows that
the commencement and stopping of the work should not be at the same point.-To
provide for this, the machine is fitted with a spring pusher for setting back the crank
plate either automatically, or by hand, at the starting of the machine. A lap of some
5 stitches may thus be obtained, and good firm work ensured.
Dated this 14th 1007

page_text: Improved Mechanism Applicable to Sewing Machines for Producing
Button-holes.
I, HENRY EDWARD NEWTON, of the Office for Patents, 6 Bream's Buildings,
Chancery Lane, in the County of Middlesex, Civil Engineer, do hereby declare the
nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement:―
This invention, as communicated to me from abroad, relates to improved mechanism
applicable to sewing machines for producing button holes.
The object of the invention is to adapt lockstitch sewing machines, of well known
types, to the production of button-holes.
In describing the improvements, I have shewn the various attachments and
mechanisms employed for carrying out the object of the invention attached to one of
that class of well-known sewing machines, in which motion is transmitted to the
needle bar through an upper horizontal rotary driving shaft.
In automatically producing button holes with the purling thread, three distinct
classes of attachments or mechanisms are employed in connection with the well-known
sewing machine.
The first class includes a work holder or clamp adapted to carry the work, and
means for communicating to the work holder to and fro movements, to produce an
over edge stitch on one side of the button hole, and, step by step, progressive
movements, to produce a succession of over edge stitches entirely around the button
hole.
The second class includes mechanism for laying a purling thread under the over
edge stitches around the edge of the button hole.
The third class includes a slit-cutter for slitting the fabric between two rows of over
edge stitching inserted in the uncut fabric, and means for automatically operating
the cutter to slit the fabric immediately after the completion of the operation of
inserting the required stitches.
The following is a description of the Inventor's improvements, the same being
illustrated as applied to a well-known arrangement of sewing machine, in which
motion is transmitted to the needle bar through an upper horizontal rotary driving
shaft.
Fig. 1 of the drawings represents in side elevation the upper portion of the sewing
machine, shewing a part of the mechanism employed for holding the work, for
automatically stopping the machine, and for slitting the button hole after the stitches
have been inserted.
Fig. 2 represents in side elevation the same devices as those shewn in Fig. 1, viewed
from the opposite side, and shewing, in addition, by dotted lines, the relative position
of some of the parts forming the purling attachment.
Fig. 3 is a front end elevation of the devices shewn in Figs. 1 and 2.

page_text: Fig. 4 is a vertical central section of the stop mechanism shown in Figs. 1 and 2.
Fig. 5 is an inverted plan view of the machine with the invention applied thereto;
the shuttle and feeding mechanism being removed.
Fig. 6 is a plan view of a plate to be secured on the upper surface of a sewing
machine bed plate, and supporting the mechanism constituting the work holder, and
some of the means employed to give to the work holder to and fro movements
and step by step progressive movements; also the latch for releasing the stop
mechanism.
Figs. 7 and 7ª represent, in plan view and elevation, a device for producing overlap
stitching.
Fig. 8 is a view similar to that shewn in Fig. 7, illustrating the movement of
the parts.
Fig. 9 is a central vertical longitudinal section of a portion of the parts shewn in
Figs. 1 and 2, illustrating the improved method of connecting the driving shaft with
.the work holder.
Fig. 10 is a detached view shewing the cam on the feed wheel and the fulcrum bar
of the vertical rock lever engaging with the switch cam on the driving shaft.
Fig. 11 is a sectional side view of the parts shewn in Fig. 10.
Figs. 12 and 13 are front elevations of a portion of the parts shewn in Fig. 2,
including the parts shewn in dotted lines, Fig. 12, shewing the purling thread carrier
rod, which supports the purling thread carrier, located on the left side of the needle
bar;
and Fig. 13, shewing the rod located on the right side of the needle bar.
Figs. 14 and 15 are top plan views of the devices shewn in Figs. 12 and 13;
Fig. 14 shewing the purling thread carrier rod at the limit of its endway movement
from the needle bar, and at the limit of its lateral movement to one side of a plane
passing through the needle.
Fig. 15 shews the opposite limits of the respective movements of the thread carrier
rod to those shewn at Fig. 14.
Fig. 16 is a plan view of the slide plate, on which the thread carrier is mounted,
shewing the arm which gives it an endway reciprocation.
Fig. 17 is a plan view of the slide carrier, which reciprocates the slide plate, and
thread carrier rod laterally, and is provided with a slide way, in which the plate slides
longitudinally.
Fig. 18 is a plan view of the bed plate, showing the slide way for the laterally
reciprocatory carriage plate.
Fig. 19 is a cross section, taken at the line X. X. in Fig. 18.
Fig. 20 is a cross sectional view of the bearing which supports the thread carrier
rod, taken through its vertical slot.
Figs. 21 and 22 are cross-sectional views of the sewing machine driving shaft, and
showing parts of the stop mechanism in side elevation.
I will first describe the mechanism employed to give the required movements to the
work-holder, whereby the work is properly presented to the needle of a sewing
machine to produce the necessary stitches for a button hole. A represents the bed
plate of the sewing machine, and B the cloth plate thereon, as seen in Fig. 3.
C, is a slide which serves to impart a lateral traverse to the work to produce what
is known as the "bite" in button hole sewing, and to bring the opposite sides of the
button hole alternately under the action of the vertical needle.
This slide C, Fig. 6, reciprocates in longitudinal guides a, a, at right angles to the
path of the needle, and formed in the base plate A*, which is bolted to the bed
plate A.
The forward end of the slide C has a cross head D, in which is a slot E, parallel
with the path of the needle. F is the clamp adapted to clamp the cloth or work
around the part in which the button hole is to be stitched in the usual manner.
This clamping device, which forms the work holder, does not require to be described,
as it is well known, and constitutes no part of this invention.
In the slot E of the cross head is a slide G, movable in said slot parallel with the
path of the needle, and to this slide G the cloth clamp or work holder is attached.―

page_text: The slide G is moved through the slot E, step by step, as each stitch is taken, and
correspondingly moves the work. The slide G moves in one direction while the
stitches are being inserted on one side of the button hole, and then returns while the
stitches are being inserted on the other side.
This progressive step by step forward movement, and retrogressive step by step
backward movement is imparted to the slide G, through a gear wheel H, keyed to a
short vertical shaft K, which has its bearing in the base plate A*, and projects through
the same to receive a cam for the purpose to be presently described. The gear
wheel H is slotted transversely through its axis on its upper side to receive an
adjustable stud I, eccentrically arranged, and with which a rod, J, connects the slide G,
so that as the gear wheel H rotates, it will impart a reciprocatory movement to the
slide G in the slot E.
Keyed to the shaft K, of the gear wheel H (see Figs. 10 and 11), is a groove cam L,
which rotates with the gear wheel H, and hence receives one full rotation in the
formation of a single button-hole.
In the plane of the cam is a lever M, on the end of which is a stud N, working in
the groove of the cam, as seen in Fig. 10. This lever is hung from a fulcrum O, the
other end of the lever being hung to a bar P, beneath the slide C, the said bar being
movable under the action of the cam, parallel with the slide C.
The groove in the cam L is of the shape as seen in Fig. 10, to hold the lever at
rest during nearly one half the rotation of the cam, then to draw that end of the
lever inward, as seen by the dotted lines Fig. 10, where it will remain stationary
during nearly one half the rotation, and then that arm of the lever will be thrown
outward. The two intervals of rest of the cam correspond to the time in which the
button hole is being stitched on its two sides, and the passage of the cain from the two
rests corresponds to the time of turning the ends of the button hole.
The bar P extends backward beneath the slide C, and to it the lower end of the
lever is hung upon the fulcrum R, (see Fig. 9).
This lever extends upward to the shaft S, in the arm of the sewing machine, and
is provided with a stud or follower, to engage with a switch cam T, on the shaft, the
cam being adapted to give to the lever a vibratory movement in a plane at right
angles to the path of the needle.
On the slide C is an upwardly projecting arm U, in a plane parallel with the
lever Q, and to this arm a pivot W is fixed, extending through a slot, Y, in the lever,
as seen in Fig. 9, and so that at each rotation of the shaft S, a full vibratory move-
ment is imparted to the lever Q, and that lever, turning upon the fulcrum R, imparts
to the slide C, and through it to the work holder, reciprocatory to and fro movements,
to permit the needle to alternately pass through the button hole, then through the
fabric near the edge of the button hole; and this reciprocating movement of the
slide C will continue through one full side of the button hole. When the end of
the button hole is reached, the cam L comes into action through the lever M upon the
bar P, and moves that bar accordingly, taking with the lower end or fulcrum R of
the lever Q, as indicated in dotted lines Fig. 10.
This movement occurs while the stitching is being made around the end of
the button hole; as, therefore, the bar P comes to a rest, the needle will have passed
to the opposite side of the button hole, and the work will then continue along that side
of the button hole to the opposite end, when the cam L will again come into action,
and return the bar P as the stitching is produced around that end of the
button hole.
The action of the lever Q upon the slide is not affected by this change in
the position of the fulcrum R, upon which the lever Q is hung, as the slide C,
and the bar P, move in parallel planes.
Thus, it will be seen that the transverse reciprocatory movement of the work holder
or clamp is communicated through the slide Û only, and without taking with it any
other part of the feeding mechanisms.
By this part of the invention, I not only avoid the unnecesary movement of
certain parts of the machine heretofore unnecessarily traversed, but I simplify the

page_text: mechanism by which the movable parts are actuated. The mechanism for driving the
gear wheel H and its connections, consists of a pinion b, (see Fig. 6), which works
into the gear wheel H, and is one half the diameter of that wheel. This pinion
is supported on a stud axle carried by and pendent from a bracket which is bolted to
the base plate A*. Upon a stud axle projecting up from the base plate A*, and set
excentric to the axis of the pinion b, is a toothed ratchet wheel d, into which the
feed pawl o works, as will be more clearly seen in the slightly modified form shewn in
Figs. 7 and 8.
From the hub of the pinion b, and below that pinion (see Figs. 7 and 8), an arm f
extends radially outward through a slotted stud g, excentric on the wheel d. This
arrangement may be modified as shewn in Fig. 6; the stud secured to ratchet
wheel d, instead of being slotted to receive a sliding arm on the hub of pinion b,
may itself be adapted to slide in the slot of a disc secured to the hub of pinion b.
This ratchet wheel makes one full rotation for each side of the button hole to be
stitched, it being operated in the following manner :-
Below the bed A of the sewing machine is the usual feed rock shaft h, see
Fig. 5.
Fixed to this shaft is an arm i, which extends up through the bed of the machine,
and from its upper end, a rod 7 connects that rock shaft (see Fig. 6) with the arm m
fulcrummed on the stud axle of the ratchet wheel d. This arm m carries the pawl_o, as
seen in Figs. 7 and 8.
Thus, the regular and usual oscillation of the rock-shaft will impart a vibratory
motion to the arm m, and cause the pawl o to engage the ratchet teeth in one
direction, and escape therefrom in the opposite direction."
The intermittent axial motion of the ratchet wheel will, by reason of the above
described connection between the ratchet wheel and the pinion b, which gears with
the crank wheel H, impart to the slide G, and the work holder, through the rod J,
step by step movements, both progressive and retrogressive; the length of these steps,
it will be understood, is made uniform by reason of the eccentric stud g, and radial
arm, being so arranged as to cause the gear wheel H to travel more rapidly as the
stud I advances from the position shewn in Fig. 6 to a position in line with slide G,
and the axle of gear wheel H, and afterwards to diminish the speed of rotation of the
gear wheel H, until it has made another quarter rotation.
As it is desirable that the work shall finish at the same point in the button hole,
and that at the same point at which it starts, it follows that there is no overlapping
of the stitching of the button hole, but that the work stops where it begins, and thus
frequently leaves a weak place in the stitching.
To overcome this difficulty, I begin the stitching at a point back of the place
where the finishing is to be made, and whereby a certain number of the stitches last
taken will overlap the stitches first taken.
To do this, when the machine is stopped at the required point, and after the work
is properly placed for the new button hole, I turn the feed backward to a certain
extent before starting the machine, and this 1 do by means of a slide n arranged
in the plane of the stud 9, of the ratchet wheel d, and sliding in a horizontal guide
formed in a lug or projection of the base plate A*. The slide n works outside the
axial plane of the ratchet wheel, and, as seen in Figs. 7 and 8, works over the
pawl o.
The pawl is provided with the usual spring, which tends to hold its nose into
engagement with the ratchet wheel. The pawl is also constructed with a tail s,
which extends outward beneath the slide n, and on the slide is a stud or shoulder t,
which stands in the plane of the tail s. The slide extends toward the stud 9: and
is provided with a spring u, the tendency of which is to hold the slide back, and out
of the path of the stud g, and so as to leave the pawl free for the spring action; but
by forcing the slide toward the stud g, as seen in Fig. 8, the shoulder t thereon
strikes the tail of the pawl, turns it away from the wheel, leaving the wheel free, and
then, on the continued movement of the slide, its end strikes the stud g, as seen
in Fig. 8, and so as to turn the stud with the arm f backward to the extent of the last

page_text: part of the movement of the slide n, and as from the position seen in Fig. 7 to that
seen in Fig. 8. Such backward movement of the arm f correspondingly turns
the pinion backward, and it, in its turn, gives to the wheel H, a backward
movement, which also moves the work-holder to the same extent.
This extent may be, say, five stitches.
The work of stitching will now commence five stitches back from where it would
have begun had not this set back been made; and the work will continue around the
button hole to the point of finishing, and in so doing, the said five stitches set back
will be overlapped by the last five stitches made in finishing the button hole.
The set back is produced, when desired, by the foot of the operator, as shewn
in Fig. 7, through a bell-crank 2, 3, hung upon a fulcrum 4, below the bed, the arm 2
extending up, and so as to work against a shoulder 5, projecting from the slide n.
When the arm 3 is pulled down by the action of a treadle (not shown), the arm 2
presses forward against the shoulder 5, and forces the slide n forward, as seen in
dotted lines Fig. 7, and so soon as, under this movement, the set back has been made
to produce the overlap, the arm 2, strikes the inclined nose of a latch 6, pivotted on
the base plate A*, and passing under that nose, escapes from the shoulder, 5.
Then the spring u reacts and withdraws the slide n, permitting the pawl o to again
engage the ratchet wheel, and the work to proceed as before.
The arm 2 passes on to the nose of the latch 6, and is there held by the catch until,
as the button hole is being completed, a downwardly projecting stud 7 on the wheel H,
strikes the tail 8, of the latch, and throws it out of engagement with the arm 2,
leaving that arm free.
2 is drawn
The lever 2, 3, may be connected with the same treadle-which operates the
lever 12, for controlling the stop and clutch mechanism, so that as the arm,
into the latch, the power is applied to start the machine.
As usual in this class of machines, which employ stop and clutch mechanisms, the
power is held in engagement by the latch 6, until such time as the latch 6, is turned
to release the lever 2, 3; then the machine will stop, and the stopping will always
occur at the same point in the button hole, and the set back will be to the saine
extent, that extent depending upon the difference which the slide n turns the pinion b
backward, and that extent may be varied to suit circumstances.
A spring 17, bears against the tail of the latch 6, to hold it in the path of the stud 7,
and also of the arm 2, as it passes on to the latch.
The lever 2, 3, may be employed to simply throw the slide forward to produce the
set back; in that case an incline corresponding to the nose of the latch 6, will throw
the arm 2, out of engagement with the slide, and permit the slide to retreat so soon as
it shall have reached its forward or full set back position.
The set back mechanism may be wholly dispensed with, and the stop mechanism
controlled by a special lover, and tripping latch, as shewn in Figs. 2, 3 and 6.
I make use of a novel stop mechanism for throwing the machine out of action on
the completion of a button hole. This stop mechanism, consists of a loose driving
pulley 9, mounted upon one end of the driving shaft S, as appears in Fig. 4; also the
loose hand wheel 10, mounted upon the shaft adapted to frictionally engage on
one side with pulley 9, and provided on its opposite side with a hub, 28, having spurs
or cogs adapted to engage with a pin, 34, secured to the disc, 30, which is excentrically
and loosely mounted upon the shaft S. The pin 34, projects through a segment
slot, 35, in the disc, 29, similar in form and excentricity to disc, 30, but fixed
to rotate with shaft S.
The several parts of the mechanism named are adapted to be forced into engagement
with each other, by means of the lever 21, fulcrummed upon the bracket arm 20, and
provided at its upper end with a head 24 containing a yielding conical bearing
surface adapted to engage centrally with a similar conical bearing surface on the outer
face of the loose pulley 9, at the point 36. At its other end, the lever 21 is provided
with a finger 22, adapted to engage with an actuating stud 23, projecting from the
vertical rod 16. The latter rod finds its bearings in the base 19, of the bracket
arm 20, and in the lug 25, projecting from the machine.

page_text: The lower end of the rod 16, is provided with a laterally projecting stud or pin 15,
adapted to fit a slot in the end of rock lever 14, secured to the rock shaft 11, as seen
in Fig. 5.
This rod is also provided with a spring, 31, see Fig. 2, which bears at its lower end
on the bracket base 19, and at its upper end against a stop or pin 37, fixed upon
the rod, whereby the resilient force of the spring, tends to force the rod upward. The
upper end of the rod 16, is provided with a head 26, adapted to engage with the
bevelled surface 38, on the hand-wheel 10, to force the latter along longitudinally of
the shaft until the spurs or cogs of its hub are driven beyond the reach of the pin 34,
which throws the parts out of engagement. The upper end of the rod 16, is also
provided with a laterally projecting stop 27, adapted to enter the notches 38" on the
periphery of the discs 29 and 30.
The operation of the mechanism is as follows; when it is desired to start the
machine, the lever 12, is forced downward by a treadle, or otherwise, which rocks
the shaft 11, and through the lever 14, forces the rod, 16, downward against the
resiliency of the spring 31, thereby causing the stud 25, to act upon the lever 21, to
force the parts formning the stop mechanism, and located on the shaft S, into engage-
ment, to transmit power from the loose pulley 9, to the shaft S. The lever arm 12, is
held in a depressed position to maintain the engagement of the driving clutch by
means of the latch 6, which slides under the hooked end, 13, of the actuating lever,
as shewn in Figs. 2 and 6.
To disengage the clutch mechanism, and stop the machine at any time, it is only
necessary to pull outward upon the hook or handle 18, which is fixed upon the tail 8,
of the latch, thereby forcing the nose, 6, of the latch out from under the hook 13,
whereupon the resiliency of spring 31, operates the rod 16, to disengage, by means of
its wedge-shaped head, the clutches, and stop the machine.
The tail of the latch is controlled by a spring 39. The stop mechanism can also
be operated automatically to stop at a given time, as before described, the downward
projecting stud or trip 7, on the lower side of crank wheel H, being adjusted to strike
the tail 8, of the latch, and release the lever 12.
In stop mechanisms heretofore constructed, it has been impossible to stop the
machine positively at such a point that the needle would be above the cloth plate and
fabric holder, when it came to rest; consequently it was found necessary to move the
machine by hand to that position before the work could be removed.
By means of the improved mechanism, I am able to stop the machine always at
the time when the needle is in the desired position, and that without undue strain
resulting from too sudden stoppage of the moving parts.
The two discs, 29 and 30, are shewn in side elevation in Figs. 21 and 22.
After the spurs or cogs upon the hub, 28, have been disengaged from the pin 34,
fixed to the disc, 30, as before explained, the latter disc is loose upon the shaft, but the
disc 29, being fixed to the shaft, is carried with it so long as the inertia of the moving
parts keeps the shaft in motion.
Figs. 21 and 22 represent the discs as they would appear when looking toward
the loose wheel 10; Fig. 21, representing the position of the discs, just as the edge
of notch, 38, in the loose disc, has struck the stop 27; and Fig. 22, their position
when the two discs are coincident in position, and have been brought to a full stop
by the stop 27, seated in the notches, 38, of both discs, a notch, 38, being so located
in the disc 29, which is fixed upon the shaft, that the needle will be above the fabric
in the desired position when the fixed disc is brought to a full stop, as shewn in
Fig. 22.
When the rod 16, rises to disengage the clutch mechanism, should the discs be in
the position shewn in Fig. 21, the excentricity of the discs will cause the projecting
corner 40, forming the edge of the notch in the loose disc 30, to strike the stop 27,
and, thus, the rotary movement of that disc will be arrested, while the inertia of the
moving parts carries the fixed disc forward, until the notches of the two discs are
coincident. The stop 27, will then become seated in the notches of both discs, as
shewn in Fig. 22, and stop the machine.

page_text: Should the discs be in any other position relatively to the stop 27, the latter stop
would strike the smooth surface of one or both of the discs, and permit the discs to
continue in their rotary movement until they reached the position shewn in Fig. 21,
whereupon their movements would be successively arrested, as before described.
It will thus be seen that when the parts come to a full stop, the needle will be in
the desired position, and that the shaft will have moved less than a complete rotation
after the clutch mechanism has been disengaged, and that it must have moved of its
own momentum a distance equal at the least to the length of the slot 35, in the fixed
disc 29, through which the pin 34, projects.
I also provide means for automatically releasing the tension upon the thread, when
the cloth clamp is opened to release the completed work.
The tension device consists of two discs 41 and 42, supported by a headed stud 43,
projecting from the machine head.
The discs are convex on their contiguous sides, and the outer disc 42, is adapted to
slide to and from the other disc on the supporting stud, the two discs being held in
engagement with each other by the actuating spring 44, as usual.
The thread passes between the contiguous surfaces of the two discs, through which
it slides, the friction upon the thread being sufficient to produce the required tension.
A rock shaft 45, rotary in the hanger 46, secured to the head of the machine, is pro-
vided with an arm 47, fixed upon one end of the shaft, and with the rock lever 48,
fixed upon the other end of the shaft.
The end of the rock lever is slotted to receive the actuating pin 49, fixed to the cam
lever 50, which actuates the clamp 51, to hold the fabric in the usual well known
manner. As the cam lever is lifted to release the clamp, it rocks the shaft 45, and
forces the wedge-shaped end of arm 47, in between the tension discs, and separates
them, thereby releasing the thread at the same time that the fabric is released from
its holder.
I will now describe that class of mechanisms employed by me for introducing a
purling or filling thread, so as to cause the needle thread to be looped around the
purling thread at each stitch, or at each to or fro movement of the work-holder, to
secure accuracy and uniformity in the location and formation of the row of two and
fro stitches, as the work is fed to and fro, and progressively, as well as retrogressively,
to the needle, by the work holder.
The mechanism shewn in Fig. 6, except the work holder, is usually covered, and
I have adapted my purling mechanism to be attached to the top of the cover M³,
which cover rests upon the bed plate A, of the sewing-machine, substantially as shown
by dotted lines in Fig. 2.
The bar which supports the work holder, projects through a slot P', in the front
side of the cover (see Figs. 12 and 13), and the crank wheel H, is accessible through
an opening in the top of the cover, as shewn in Figs. 14 and 15.
The rod B', which supports the purling thread carrier B², rocks axially in a
bearing C², secured to a slide plate (, which plate is guided by ways D*, D³, (see
Fig. 17), and secured to the slide carriage D¹.
The slide carriage is guided by ways I, on the bed plate 12, (see Figs. 18 and 19),
which rests upon the top of cover I', and is secured thereto by screws t¹, passing
down through screw holes in the corners of the plate and its cover, I¹.
The slide carriage is reciprocated by a lever D2, fulerummed on the plate 12, and
provided at one end with an operating handle D³, and at the other end with a pin
adapted to engage with the carriage in slot D'.
This lever is also provided with an actuating spring S4, having a fixed support S³.
The vertical rock shaft G3, has its supporting bearing in an offset from the cover,
and is connected through rock lever G², at its upper end, by link G', with the cam
actuated lever Q, as indicated by dotted lines in Fig. 2.
The rock shaft is provided at its lower end with the lever G₁, (see Fig. 16), which
rests in the opening I³, in the bed plate I2, and is provided at its end with a vertical
pin G, projecting up through the opening D, in the slide carriage, into the transverse

page_text: slot C, in the slide C¹, the transverse walls of the slot serving as tappets, for
reciprocating the slide when acted upon by the pin.
The bearing C is secured to the top of slide plate C₁, in the position shewn in
Figs. 14 and 15, and is provided on its upper side with the central transverse slot C³,
through which projects the tappet arm Bs, fixed upon the rod B'. This arm is of
sufficient length to project up through the central opening shown in the cover, and
may be provided, on its projecting end, with a handle, by which the rod B¹, can be
wholly controlled and operated by hand.
As a preferred means for controlling the axial movements of the thread carrier rod,
I provide the cam-shaped guides J and J2, which may be the edge walls of the central
opening in the cover I', as shewn at Figs. 14 and 15.
The rod B¹, is provided with a downwardly projecting arm S³, fixed thereon, the
projecting end of which is connected with one side of the bed plate I2, by spring S¹,
and with the opposite side by spring S², as shewn. The carrier B2, which carries the
purling thread B³, is adjustably secured by a set screw in the end of the rod B¹.
The carriage D' is moved from the position shewn in Figs. 14 and 13, to that shewn
in Figs. 15 and 12, by means of the lever D2, and is secured in the position shewn in
Figs. 15 and 12 by means of the trip latch Ei, pivotted upon the plate 12, at Es, and
provided at one end with the stop or ledge E, adapted to engage with the projecting
end of the way D', secured to the plate D', the other end of the latch dropping down
upon or near the upper surface of the crank wheel H. The spring S₁ is preferably
attached at one end to a short arm E³ of the latch, to facilitate the engagement of the
latch with the way D'.
Whenever the latch is tripped, the resiliency of spring S*, forces the carriage D¹
back to the position shewn in Figs. 14 and 13.
The latch may be tripped by a trip or lug E2, projecting upward from the face of
the rotary crank wheel H, in the path of the latch, thus automatically changing the
purling thread carrier from one side to the other of the needle, as shewn in Figs. 12
and 13.
As the carriage plate slides back and forth, it is evident that the slide plate C¹ is
carried back and forth with it, the pin G³ occupying first one end, and then the other
end, of the slot C, in the plate (see Fig. 16).
When the devices are to be operated automatically, the method is as follows:-the
carriage D' is forced over in the position shewn in Figs. 15 and 12, by the operator,
where it is locked by the latch E'.
The mechanism of the button hole sewing machine is then put in operation, which
vibrates the lever Q, and, through the connecting parts before described, imparts to
the work holder, and the slide-plate C¹, simultaneous to and fro movements.
During both the to and fro movements, the bearing C2, secured to the slide plate C,
acts upon the tappet B³, to communicate its to and fro slide movements to the thread
carrier rod B¹. The purling thread carrier, partaking of the movements of its rod,
carries the purling thread to and fro, from one side of the needle to the opposite
side.
The extreme positions of the thread carrier are shewn in Figs. 14 and 15.
The course taken by the eye of the thread-carrier around the needle or needle
hole N, is also shewn in the said figures, by the curved dotted line.
The to and fro movements in front of the needle are obtained from the traverse of
the slide plate C; and the back and forth movement, which curves the course of the
carrier, is effected by the guide J', upon which the tappet B³ rides, it being held in
contact therewith by the spring S¹, acting through the arm S³.
.
The course followed by the eye of the thread carrier will depend upon the form of
the guide J, and can be varied as desired.
When the crank wheel H bas made a half rotation, the link J is in line with the
crank and centre of the wheel, and the step by step progressive movements of the
work holder will stop, and as the wheel continues to rotate, the retrogressive step by
step movement commences, and continues during the remaining half rotation.

page_text: As the work, during the retrogressive movement, travels in the opposite direction,
that which was the front of the needle, during the progressive movement, becomes the
back, during the retrogressive movement.
It becomes necessary, therefore, to change the field of operations of the thread
carrier, from the side of the needle, occupied during the progressive movement, to the
opposite side, during the retrogressive movement.
To accomplish this change, I prefer to make use of the trip E², which is located
upon the crank wheel H, so as to pass under the lever E¹, and lift it sufficiently to
release the stop D', whereupon the spring S* immediately slides the carriage D¹, from
the position shown in Figs. 15 and 12, to that shown in Figs. 14 and 13, which
changes the plane of axial motion of the thread carrier rod, from one side of the needle
to the opposite side, and by releasing or diminishing the tension upon spring S₁, and
increasing the tension upon S2, the tappet B is thrown over to the other side of
the opening in the cover I', and forced to engage with the cam-shaped guide J2,
similar in form to guide J', whereby the carrier is caused to travel over a course
similar to that traversed before, except that the curve is reversed, as will appear by
inspection of the curved dotted lines in Figs. 14 and 15, around the needle hole.
As one side of the button hole is formed during the progressive movements, and
the opposite side during the retrogressive movements, the work is completed at the
end of the latter movements, and the operation may be repeated upon successive
button holes as often as desired. It is evident that all the required movements of
the purling thread carrier, may be obtained by operating the thread carrier rod by
hand, without recourse to any of the mechanisms for accomplishing the same
movements automatically.
I will now describe the remaining class of mechanisms employed by me in connection
with button hole sewing machines which have for their object the slitting of the
button hole automatically.
The preferred method of making button holes with button hole sewing machines, is
to first insert two parallel rows of zigzag stitches, the rows being of the length and
form desired for the button hole, and afterwards to cut a slit in the fabric between
the rows of stitching.
The slit is cut by a chisel-shaped cutter forced down through the fabric, the cutter
being arranged to be automatically forced into and out of engagement with the needle
bar of the sewing machine, at the proper time, to slit the fabric, after the stitches
forming the button hole have been inserted by the sewing machine needle.
I provide the machine head with a vertically sliding cutter bar a², Figs. 1, 2 and 3,
provided with a knife-edged cutter a³, and capable of turning in the slide ways
secured to the head.
The turning of the cutter bar in one direction will cause it to engage with the
needle bar, and a similar movement in the opposite direction will disengage the two
bars from each other.
When in engagement, the lug a³, projecting laterally from the cutter bar, rests in
the receiving slot at, in the needle bar shown in Fig. 3, and the cutter bar is forced
thereby to partake of the vertical movements of the needle bar. The cutter is shown
at its limit of upward vibration.
As a preferred means for communicating to the cutter-bar a reciprocatory axial
movement, to cause its engagement and disengagement with the needle bar at the
proper times, and in the proper position to slit the fabric, I provide the reciprocatory
horizontal slide bar b', shown best in Fig. 1. This bar is slotted at its forward or
fulcrum end at 2, to slide upon a screw 63, fixed upon the machine head, the other
end of the slide bar being supported by the screw-headed stud *, which connects the
lever Q, with the switch cam upon the driving shaft.
The slide bar , at its forward end, carries a bent arm a². The extremity of this
arm is pivotted by a pin a³, to the lever plate a³, which is slotted to receive the
feather a, on the cutter bar. Thus the reciprocatory slide movement of the bar b',
will communicate to the cutter bar an axial movement, whereas the vertical movements
of the needle bar will communicate vertical movements to the cutter bar; the latter

page_text: sliding in the lever plate, which retains the cutter bar in engagement with the needle
bar and the cutter, at the right angle of rotation, to enter the fabric on a line parallel
with the rows of stitching.
The slide bar is provided with a slot 6, adapted to receive the stud 6, also with
the downwardly projecting head ', having the bevelled or inclined face b³. When
the stud, is seated in the slot 60, the slide bar partakes of the vibratory movement
of the rock lever Q, and imparts to the cutter bar a reciprocatory axial movement,
but when the slide-bar is lifted to the position shown out of engagement with the
stud 7, the slide bar and cutter bar will remain at rest.
It is evident that the slide bar may be lifted or dropped by hand, to force it into,
and out of, engagement with the stud 6, to cut the slit, but I have provided
mechanism for automatically effecting this engagement and disengagement, whereby
the cutter is brought into action, just as the stitching for the button hole is completed.
As a part of such mechanism, I make use of a post e', adjustably fixed at its lower
end, as by set screw, upon a rock shaft e², mounted in a fixed bearing e³.
The upper end of the post is provided with a bevelled or inclined face, adapted to
engage with a similarly bevelled face 8, of the slide bar.
The post is connected, as by spring e, to some portion of the machine to draw. the
head of the post inward, toward the bracket arın of the machine.
The slide bar is similarly connected by a spring e, to draw its head downward.
When the slide bar is forced into engagement with the stud, b, it is forced toward
the needle bar, and operates the cutter bar, as before described, and back again, to
the position shown in Fig. 1; but during the latter part of the backward movement, the
incline, slides up the inclined face of the post, throwing the slide bar above the
plane of the stud 4, where it remains at rest until again forced into engagement.
To effect the engagement of the slide bar with the stud 64, the rock shaft, upon
which the post is fixed, is caused to tip the head of the post clear of the bar 6,
whereupon the spring es, will draw the slide bar down into engagement with the
stud 4.
It is only necessary, therefore, to provide some tripping device for pushing the post
out from under the bar at the time it is desired to cut the button hole slit, to render
the engagement of the cutter automatic.
I provide, for this purpose, the horizontal rock lever e', fixed upon the rock shaft e²,
and having a bevelled faced head e8, adapted to engage a similarly bevelled trip on
the crank wheel H, which may be the trip E², used in connection with the purling
mechanism; the trip being employed in connection with the purling mechanism, to
change the field of vibration of the purling thread carrier, at the end of a half rotation
of the crank wheel, and in connection with the slit cutting mechanism to bring the
cutter into operation at the end of a complete rotation of the crank-wheel, when the
button hole is finished.
After the trip passes beneath the lever head 8, to lift it, it must remain there until
the succeeding movement or movements of the crank wheel, carry it past the lever-
head, and permit the latter to drop, and the spring e, to bring the bevelled post e¹,
back in line with the slide bar b².
It is necessary, therefore, to provide some substitute for the bevelled post, to lift the
bar, b, up from engagement with the stud , while the trip holds the lever head in an
elevated position, to prevent the bar from forcing the cutter-bar into engagement
with the needle-bar, during two or more successive downward vibrations of the latter.
I provide, for this purpose, an auxiliary bevelled post e, pivotted at its lower end
upon the post eat el, as shewn by the dotted lines in Fig. 1, placed for convenience
of illustration on the vertical part of the bracket arm of the sewing machine, represent-
ing the parts in front elevation.
The auxiliary post is provided with a spring e¹², which forces the auxiliary post
against the stop e¹³, on the post e¹.
The auxiliary post is a trifle higher than the main post e¹, and bears against the
contiguous side of the head 67 of the bar ', while the latter rests upon the top of the
.main post.

page_text: When the main post is forced out from under the head of the bar 61, the latter falls
into engagement with its actuating stud +, and is forced forward to actuate the cutter,
as before explained.--In its forward movement, the slide-bar is carried past the
auxiliary post, thereby releasing the latter, so that its spring e¹², forces it against the
stop e, and in line with the bar b', so that when the bar returns during its backward
vibratory movement, it is forced up the bevelled surface upon the top of the auxiliary
post, which disengages the slide-bar from its actuating stud, in the same manner
as it would have been disengaged by the main post, if the latter had been
permitted to return to the same vertical plane occupied by the slide-bar, as already
explained.
The slide bar remains out of engagement upon the auxiliary post, until the trip E²,
on the crank wheel H, is carried past the lever head es, whereupon the spring et, forces
the main post back into the same vertical plane with the slide-bar 1, the stop e¹³,
forcing the auxiliary post out from beneath the bar, and permitting the latter to fall
upon the top of the main post, where it remains until another button hole is stitched
and another rotation of the crank-wheel brings the trip E2, into engagement with the
lever head e, the operation being automatically repeated as often as button holes
are stitched.
In those figures, 1 and 2, which illustrate the mechanisin for slitting the fabric, I
have shewn a modified form of connection between the rock-lever Q, and the sliding-
plate C. In the modified form, the slotted arm U, is fixed upon the bed-plate, and
the rock-lever Q fulcrummed thereon, intermediately of the ends of the lever, the
lower end of the lever Q, being pivotted directly to the slide-plate C, or lug Q,
projecting upward therefrom, as seen in Figs. 2 and 6.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said
Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, as communicated
to me by my foreign correspondent, I declare that what I claim is :-
1. The combination in a sewing machine substantially such as described, of the
slide C, carrying the slotted cross head D, the slide G, in the slot of said cross-head,
and carrying the work-holder, the gear wheel H, in crank connection with slide G,
mechanism substantially such as described, to impart step-by-step rotation to said
wheel H, a cam L on the axis of said wheel H, a lever Q, cam T on the driving-shaft
of the machine, with which one end of said lever Q, engages, the said lever hung to
said slide C, the other end extending downward, and hung upon a fulcrum, with a
lever between said fulcrum and the said cam, L, substantially as described, and
whereby, at predetermined times, a movement is imparted to said fulcrum in
a path parallel with said slide C, and at right angles to the path of the needle.
2. The combination, in a sewing machine substantially as described, of a slide G,
arranged in guides parallel with the path of the needle, and carrying the work-holder,
a gear H, in crank connection with such slide G, a pawl and ratchet, with intermediate
gear working into said gear-wheel H, a pawl arranged to work in the teeth of said
ratchet, and a direct connection between said pawl and the feed rock-shaft of the
machine, substantially as described, and whereby the oscillating movement of said
rock-shaft imparts the back and forward movement to said pawl in connection with
said ratchet.
3. The combination in a sewing machine substantially such as described, of the
slide G, arranged in guides parallel with the path of the needle, and carrying the
work-holder, a gear H in crank connection with said slide G, a pinion b working into
said gear H, a ratchet d in connection with said pinion, and a pawl, adapted for back
and forward movement in connection with said ratchet, and whereby a step-by-step
rotation is imparted to said wheel H, with a slide working in a plane parallel with
said ratchet-wheel, and adapted, at a predetermined time, to engage with said ratchet
wheel in a direction opposed to the action of the pawl, the said slide provided with a
shoulder arranged to disengage said pawl before said slide engages said ratchet wheel,
substantially as and for the purpose described.
4. In a sewing machine substantially such as described, the combination of the

page_text: slide G, arranged in guides parallel with the path of the needle, and carrying the work-
holder, a gear-wheel H, in crank connection with such slide G, a ratchet wheel in
gear connection with said wheel H, a vibrating pawl adapted to engage said ratchet-
wheel and impart a step-by-step rotation thereto, the said ratchet wheel provided with
a projection upon its side, a slide in the plane of said projection, and adapted to engage
said projection at a predetermined time, the said slide also constructed with a shoulder
arranged to throw said pawl out of engagement with said ratchet wheel, a lever, 2, 3,.
one arm of which is arranged to engage said slide, and impart a movement thereto,
toward said ratchet-wheel, and an incline 6 in the path of the advancing arm 2, of said
lever, substantially as described, and whereby the said lever 2, 3, will be thrown out
of engagement with the slide, when the said slide has reached its extreme forward
position.
5. The application to a button hole sewing machine of the arrangement of stop
motion above described, for arresting the action of the sewing mechanism at the
completion of a button hole.
6. The means above described for releasing the tension on the needle-thread, when
the pressure of the cloth clamp is released from the work.
7. The application to a button-hole sewing machine of the purling thread carrier
mechanism, constructed and operating in the manner above described.
8. The means above described for automatically operating the button hole slit cutter,
on the completion of the sewing of the button hole.
NEWTON & SON,
Agents for the Applicant.