Improvements in Embroidery Machines.
Year: 1890

page_text: Date of Application, 10th July, 1890
Complete Specification Left, 10th Apr., 1891-Accepted, 20th June, 1891
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Embroidery Machines.
1 JULES MATHIEU of 5 Rue Mazagran, Paris, in the Republic of France,
Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to improvements in embroidery mechanism, by, which it is
possible to obtain, in the same machine, various kinds of work, and more particu-
larly raised and flat braid embroidery, and also embroidery with a cord formed with
a core of wool, results which hitherto have been obtained only imperfectly, and by
employing a special machine for each kind of work.
In carrying out this invention, as applied to a Bonnaz or Cornely machine, on
the hollow shaft of the needle bar is mounted loosely, in a horizontal position,
a toothed disc or spur wheel immediately below the bracket head of the sewing
machine. Pendent from the under side of this disc, are two or more bobbins for
thread or cord. Guides for these threads are adjustably attached to the hollow
boss of the toothed disc, and extend down near the work.
The bobbin carrier may receive a partial rotation, during the reciprocations of
the needle har, by means of a pinion (suitably proportioned) gearing into the
wheel, and suitably driven, through a train of gear wheels, from the main shaft.
Secured to the upper part of the head of the machine, is a bobbin carrier to
receive a bobbin which is arranged in the line of the axis of the needle bar. The
carrier receives rotary motion through toothed gear driven from the main shaft of
the machine. The thread from this bobbin is passed down through the hollow
spindle or needle bar, and out by a hole in a surrounding tube, and through a nozzle
carried by the tube, and thence to the needle.
This thread may be of wool, to form a core for the embroidering cord, and
as it issues from the nozzle, it is surrounded by the threads from the other
bobbins carried by the toothed disc, the needle working to sew down each
thread in succession as it is brought, by the rotation of the disc, across the path of
the needle.
To produce embroidery with either a flat braid or a raised braid, by which is
meant a braid that, being sewn along one edge, its opposite edge is caused to cant
up, the nozzle before referred to is replaced by another, which will give the necessary
cant. The trigger piece or lever governing the feed is turned in an inverse sense,
as is also the whirl placed under the table, and the handle of the whirl; and the
driving pinion of the toothed disc is disconnected, as the bobbins carried thereby
are not required in this operation.
Means will also be provided for disconnecting the wool thread bobbin mechanism
from the machine, so that the same machine can be used for making a plain
embroidery stitch, a twisted cord embroidery, a raised braid embroidery, and a
twisted cord with a wool thread core.
Dat this 10th don of LJ., 1900
NEWTON & SON,
Agents for the Applicant.

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Embroidery Machines.
I, JULES MATHIEU of 5 Rue Mazagran, Paris, in the Republic of France,
Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement :-
This invention relates to improvements in embroidery mechanism, by which it is
possible to obtain, in the same inachine, various kinds of work, and more particularly
raised and flat braid embroidery, and also embroidery with a cord formed with a
core of wool, results which hitherto have been obtained only imperfectly, and by
employing a special machine for cach kind of work.
All known embroidery machines admit only of the employment of a single cord
(or metallic or other thread) at a time. Again, with certain machines, threads or
cords are employed, wound on bobbins placed one above another, which threads in
reality represent only one thread, the bobbins being mounted on the needle carrier,
which gives them simultaneously a rotatory movement.
From this fact, "shading" becomes impossible, since the threads are not twisted,
and are attached upon the fabric very irregularly, and give the design a variable
and bad effect. With the machines just mentioned, it is found necessary to
previously twist by hand the silk threads, cords, or metallic threads of different
colors, to obtain one thread, which is afterwards wound on a bobbin. The threads
thus twisted inconveniently hinder, by their thickness, the regular action of the
presser foot. As will be seen, this is a costly work, and the designs obtained not
being effectively tied down upon the fabric by the chain stitch, the work comes
undone from one end to the other when any of the twisted threads are pulled.
It is equally impossible to employ chenille twisted with metallic threads, as the
chenille deteriorates, when kept in stock, by contact with the metal.
Now, it is to remove these inconveniences which is the object of the new
machine hereinafter to be described, by means of which all kinds of materials may
be employed.
In carrying out this invention, the parts composing the disengaging apparatus of
gimp embroidery machines, are dispensed with, and are replaced by a simple
combination of parts, which will now be described.
In the accompanying drawings,
Fig. 1 is a front elevation of the machine, to which are applied the accessories
for producing gimp cord with a stuffing or core of wool.
Fig. 2 is a side view of the machine, with certain parts in section, for facilitating
the comprehension of the mounting and action of the same.
Figs. 3 shew in elevation and plan a nozzle for producing the ordinary gimp
embroidery.
Fig. 4 is a nozzle for use with ordinary gimp cord, or stuffed cord, required to
be fixed upon the fabric by the chain stitch.
Figs. 5 shew in elevation, section, and underside view, a nozzle for use with
raised braid.
In all these figures, the same letters of reference indicate like parts.
The present improvements relate to an extension of the improvements in
embroidery machines for which I have obtained Letters Patent dated 20 August
1889, No. 13121, and are shown as applied to a machine of the well known Bonnaz
class.
To produce the ordinary gimp cord, or the twisted or covered cord in one or
several colors, I mount loosely upon the hollow sleeve A' of the needle bar A, a
spur wheel D, which is retained in position by a ring a, secured by a clamping
screw to the hollow sleeve A'. The spur wheel D, the boss of which is fitted with a
socket e, having 2, 3, 4, or more arms F, carries the thread guides E, and also the

page_text: bobbins G (Figs. 1 and 2), according as it may be desired to embroider with 2, 3, 4,
or more metallic threads, gimp cords, chenille &c.
The thread guides may be attached to the arms F, but are preferably attached
to the socket e, as shewn, by screws f. Their height can be regulated by the
grooves or rebates f', in which the tangs or heels of the thread guides rest, thus
making part of the arms F (Fig. 2). The socket e carries guide eyes g, through
which is passed the cord g¹ coming from the corresponding bobbin, before entering
the eye f, from which it passes to the hooked needle. Rotary motion is given to the
spur wheel D from the pinion I, fitted on the vertical shaft B, which receives motion
from two spur wheels ed (of which the one, c, is loose upon the shaft C', that governs
the direction of the feed, and the other, d, is keyed upon the main shaft C) through
the bevil pinions ab upon the horizontal and vertical shafts C and B respectively
The pinion I has a socket or hollow boss i, having a notch into which takes the
tang j, thus making connection with the collar of the intermediate vertical
shaft B. The pinion I is mounted loosely upon the shaft B, and is held in position
by the helical spring k, bearing upon the screw nut k¹. The action of the machine
is as follows:-The shaft C, receiving its motion from a driving wheel or pulley,
transmits it (when the machine is coupled up), by means of the spur pinions d c
and the bevil pinions a b, to the shaft B, upon which is mounted the pinion I.
This pinion gears with the wheel D, which carries round the bobbins G and thread
guides E. The diameter of the wheels is so determined that when the wheel D
has made one rotation, each cord will be attached to the fabric by one chain
stitch, that is to say, that if 4 bobbins are employed, as shewn in the drawing, the
needle will make 4 ascents and descents during one rotation of the wheel D. While
the needle makes one vertical movement, the cords, before being attached to the
fabric by the needle to which they are presented simultaneously, are twisted
together and made solid by the movement of the bobbins around the needle, so that
the embroidery is prevented from becoming undone or loosened from the fabric.
To re-wind the bobbins, the apparatus is disengaged by pulling down the pinion I
out of gear with the wheel D, and giving it a quarter of a turn, in order that the
tang cannot enter the notch in the hollow socket i.
To produce raised braid (by raised braid is meant braid which, being sewn along
one edge, its opposite edge is caused to cant upwards) it will suffice to replace the
nozzle V by that shewn at Figures 5 in elevation, section, and underside view. This
nozzle consists of two parts, namely, a hollow or pierced needle guide A³, which
is screwed into the bottom of the hollow sleeve A¹, and a former A³ which slides
on the lower portion or stem of the needle guide A³.
The former A consists of a cylindrical portion having at its lower end a lateral
projection A, in which an inclined slot is made, as shewn in the sectional drawing.
This slot serves to guide the braid (which enters it quite flat) so that one edge
comes below the needle guide, and in the line of the needle, and the slot is,
besides, so formed as to cant the other edge upwards in such a manner that the
braid, as it issues on the opposite side of the former, will be shaped in cross
section.
The former A is pressed down onto the work by the spring A', so that one side
of the braid is securely held in its canted position, while the needle descends through
the tubular needle guide, and secures the braid, along its horizontal portion, to the
material to be ornamented.
In addition to the substitution of this compound nozzle for the nozzle V, it will
also be necessary to turn in the opposite direction the piece R, the whirl placed
under the table, and the governing handle of the whirl; then the pinion I is to be
disconnected, as described above, and the work proceeds. The piece R and the
whirl are turned in the opposite direction, in order that the embroidery to be
attached to the fabric, may come in front of the needle, in place of coming in rear
of the needle, as with the stuffing of ordinary cords. The pinion I is disengaged
in order that the rotary movement of the bobbins G may be stopped, which

page_text: movement is not required when it is desired to secure the raised braid Z as indicated
in Fig. 5.
To produce cord of one or several colours, formed with a core of wool, the
apparatus as shewn at Figs. 1 and 2 is employed, and the stuffed cord will auto-
matically be attached upon the fabric as indicated at Fig. 4.
The apparatus
consists of a bobbin carrier O, placed on the upper part of the machine in the line
of the axis of the needle bar.
This bobbin carrier O receives a rotary movement, which is communicated to it
by the pinions o, o', o² and o³, the pinion o receiving its motion through the bevel
gear from the shaft C' that governs the direction of feed. The bobbin carrier has
a rotary movement in order to prevent the twisting up of the cord wound upon the
bobbins, which would hinder it from passing through the nozzle. The wool
intended for the core of the cord is wound upon the bobbin Q, and passes down
thro' the hollow sleeve A' of the needle bar A, & out by the slot 2, & through
the hole y of the nozzle V to the needle, where it is surrounded by the cords g' g¹.
The attachment upon the fabric of the stuffed cord, as well as the action of the
machine, takes place as described above.
As will be easily understood from the drawings, when it is desired to use the
machine without this apparatus, for example, for ordinary embroidery, or to use
the cord with several colors, it will be sufficient to take out the screw land
remove the bracket P', together with the gearing actuating the apparatus. It
will be understood that a greater or less number of bobbins & thread guides may be
employed if required.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I may remark that
I do not wish to confine myself to the exact details of construction, which may
obviously be more or less modified without departing from the nature of my invention,
but what I claim is :
-
The improvements in embroidery machines substantially as herein shewn and
described, which permit of various styles of embroidery being produced in one and
the same machine.
Dated this 10th day of April 1891.
NEWTON & SON,
Agents for the Applicant.