IMPROVE- MENTS IN CHAINS, CHAIN PINS, SWIVELS, BROOCHES, AND OTHER FASTENINGS FOR WEARING APPAREL
Year: 1851

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, BENJAMIN
WILLIAM GOODE, RICHARD BOLAND, and JAMES NEWMAN, of Birmingham, send
greeting.
WHEREAS Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her.
Royal Letters Patent under the Great Seal of the United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland, bearing date at Westminster, the Twenty-ninth day of
April (One thousand eight hundred and fifty-one), in the fourteenth year of
Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto
us, the said Benjamin William Goode, Richard Boland, and James Newman,
our exors, adñiors, and assigns, Her especial license, full power, sole privilege
and authority, that we, the said Benjamin William Goode, Richard Boland,
and James Newman, our exors, adñiors, and assigns, or such others as we,
the said Benjamin William Goode, Richard Boland, and James Newman,
our exors, adñiors, or assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others.
from time to time and at all times during the term of years therein expressed,
should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within England,
Wales, and the Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, our Invention of "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN CHAINS, CHAIN PINS, SWIVELS, BROOCHES, AND OTHER FASTENINGS FOR
WEARING APPAREL;" in which said Letters Patent is contained a proviso,
that we, the said Benjamin William Goode, Richard Boland, and James
Newman, or some or one of us, shall cause a particular description of the
nature of our said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed,

page_text: by an instrument in writing under our hands and seals, or under the hand and
seal of some or one of us, to be inrolled in Her said Majesty's High Court of
Chancery within six calendar months next and immediately after the dato of
the said in part recited Letters Patent, as in and by the same, reference Leing
thereunto had, will more fully and at large appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, we, the said
Benjamin William Goode, Richard Boland, and James Newman, do hereby
declare that the nature of our said Invention, and the manner in which the
same is to be performed, are fully described and ascertained in and by the
following statement thereof, reference being had to the Drawings hereunto
annexed, and to the figures and letters marked thereon, that is to say :-
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.
Figures 1 and 2 show a pin having the one part of our Invention applied
thereto, and consists of employing a chain in combination with a cap or shield
of a pin, thus offering not only great security, but at the same time ornament
to the pin. The form of the cap and parts of the chain may be varied, and
such is the case in regard to the pin to which such combined apparatus may be
applied; a is the pin to which a chain is attached by means of an eye b, the
chain being of a size to pass freely through such eye; c is an ornamental drop
fixed at one end of the chain; this drop has a hook or other convenient
fastening to connect it to a part of the chain intermediate of the two ends
thereof, so that when so connected the cap or shield will be retained secure on
the point of the pin, and the pin will be retained secure in the dress till the
hook or fastening is separated. The peculiarity of this part of our Invention
consists of combining a cap or shield by means of a chain to a pin, as herein
explained.
Figure 3 shows a portion of a chain partly in section made according to the
second part of our Invention, which consists of raising pieces of sheet metal
into such forms that when soldered or brazed, they shall form links of chains
in the manner shown; the form of the parts may, however, be varied without
departing from our Invention, provided the mode of interconnection be
retained; Figure 3* shows one of the pieces of sheet metal; Figure 4 shows
it after it has been raised by suitable dies, as is well understood, and these
raised pieces being brazed or soldered, form a chain such as is shown at
Figure 3.
And it is the forming or constructing chains as herein explained
which constitutes this part of our Invention.
Figures 5 and 6 show two views of a swivel, having part of the ring on a

page_text: sliding bolt, moved by a spring; and Figure 7 shows another view of a like
swivel, differing only in respect to the mode of applying the spring. The spring
to bring back the part which opens being, in Figures 5 and 6, on the interior,
whilst the one at Figure 7 is exterior, as shown; a is a split tube, having
within it the sliding part 6, carrying part of the ring of the swivel. The
spring has a tendency at all times to keep the ring of the swivel unbroken,
but the ring is opened by pressing on the part c, which slides externally, as
shewn, and is carried through a slot by a pin with the sliding bolt. The
novelty of this part of our Invention consists of the mode of opening and
closing a portion of the ring of a swivel as shewn.
Figures 8 and 9 show two views of another swivel made according to our
Invention, and consists of using a sliding bolt to lock the portion of the ring
of the swivel which opens; a is the portion of the ring which opens on an
axis;
b is a pin or bolt in connection with the slide c, by which the bolt or pin
can be drawn back, the spring on the interior constantly tending to lock the
parts together. The novelty consists in the means of fastening by a pin or
bolt b, the part of the ring a which opens.
Figures 10, 11, and 12 shew separate views of another swivel made accord-
ing to our Invention, some of the parts being in section; one part of the ring
moves laterally on an axis, as shewn at Figure 12, and it is to be fastened at
the top by means of a screw, or it might be a spring slide. The novelty
consists in the causing the part of the ring to open on an axis laterally.
Figures 13 and 14 show two sections of another swivel to suspend a watch
from, and consists of the ring being made of two parts, one part moving away
by means of a stem a, which is constantly pressed on by a spring with a ten-
dency to close the parts of the ring as shewn; b is a pin to fasten the swivel
to the dress. The novelty consists in the mode of combining the parts.
Figures 15 and 16 shew two views of another swivel, which consists of
having one part of the ring to slide back into the other part, a spring constantly
tending to close the part which moves back; a is a bolt which is moved back
by the stud, and b is a spring which constantly tends to close the bolt. The
novelty consists in the mode of closing the ring by a bolt a.
Figures 17 and 18 show two views of a pin for a brooch or ornament, and
the improvement consists in the mode of applying a cap shield to the point of
the pin; a is the pin, which is hinged to the part b, which may be a brooch or
such like ornament; c is the cap or shield, which is fixed to a spring stem d
n which is fixed the disc c, which slides within the tube c', and at its end it
is turned up, so as to pass through and catch in the hole at f, and by that

page_text: means retain the cap or cover over the point of the pin. The spring g, acting
against the disc e and the fixed internal flanges e¹ in the tube, causes the cap
to be removed from the point of the pin when the end of the spring stem d is
released by being pushed inwards. The novelty consists in the combination of
the parts shown, and we would state that the shape of the parts may be
varied.
Figures 19 and 20 show a back view and section of a brooch, or other
imilar ornament, with our improvements applied thereto, for securing and
protecting the point of the pin; and Figures 21 and 22 show two views of the
same brooch or ornament, showing the cover or shield in a position to retain
and protect the point of the pin; a is a short tube capable of turning in the
ring or staple h, attached to the back of the brooch, and there is a slit in the
tube a for the point of the pin to pass through when turned outwards, but
when the tube a is turned so that the slit or opening is no longer in a line with
or opposite to the direction in which the point of the pin is raised or moved
outwards, then it will be securely retained within the tube; c is a tubular
piece of metal, one end being attached to the back of the brooch; the other
end entering the tube a, serves to compress a spiral spring between it and the
end of the tube a, and when the slit or opening in the tube is turned to its lowest
position, the tendency of the spring to force the tube outwards causes a pro-
jection on the outer circumference of the tube a to enter a recess in the part b
and retain it in that position.
Figures 23 and 24 shew another arrangement of parts applied to a brooch
for retaining and protecting the point of the pin. a is a short tube attached
to the back of the brooch; b is another tube, sliding within the tube a, there
being a pin attached to the tube b which travels in a slot in the tube a; and
when the tube b is pushed outwards so as to cover the point of the pin, the pin
on the tube b is caused to enter a recess at right angles to the slot, and so
retain the tube over the point of the pin. The novelty consists in the arrange-
ment of the parts for retaining and protecting the points of pins attached
to brooches or other similar fastenings for wearing apparel. The novelty in
the articles described in respect to Figures 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, and 24,
consists of the means of covering the points of the pins.
Figure 24* shews a front and edge view of a brooch or other ornament, and
consists in the application of a pin to the back of a pair of ornamental covered
buttons or surfaces connected by an elastic band, so as to connect two parts of
a garment together when being worn, and is intended to be used as a substitute
for covered ornaments which are fixed to parts of articles of dress to connect

page_text: them by cords, chains, or loops. The form of the parts shewn may be varied
without departing from our Invention, which consists in applying a pin.or
other suitable fastening to the back of a covered surface, consisting of two
parts drawn together by an elastic connection, to be used as a brooch or
ornamental fastening for wearing apparel."
-
Figure 24 shows another, modification, where two parts, each having its
own pin or hook, are attached by an elastic band, and therefore each part can
be attached to its part of the garment.
The novelty of this part of our Invention consists of the means of combining
the two parts by an elastic band, and covering the point of the pin.
Figure 25. shows a section of a mode for connecting the two ends of a
bracelet. On one end a of the bracelet there is a hook, and on the other end b
an eye, which wlien connected are retained together by a cover or part c,
which slides on the part 6 by a pin passing through slots on each side; and the
ring or slide c is always passed over the parts a, b, by a spring, as shewn; and
Figure 26 shews the two parts separated. The novelty consists in the arrange-
ment of the parts for connecting the two ends of a chain, bracelet, or other
ring or hoop-formed fastener or ornament.
Figures 27, 28, and 29 show a plan, a section, and an under side view of a
button before the bar is attached. Figure 30 shows a plan of the button
complete; and Figure 31 shows two views of the bar or shank separately.
The perforated disc a is formed with recesses a', a', for the projecting ends of
the bar to enter, and the bar is secured in its position by turning down the
projecting ends b', 6', of the bar or shank into recesses a², a², on the under side
of the disc a.
Figure 32 shows a plan and section of another button, the opened ends of
the bar 6 being closed by dies, with the inner edge of the disc a between them.
Figure 33 shows a plan and section of a disc to form a covered button, the
centre part of the disc a being sunk or recessed to form a flange for the ring
and cross bar 6 to rest upon, and inclose the material between the disc a and
ring 6, the ring 6 having projections on its under side, which when turned over
the inner edges of the disc a, retain it securely. Figure 34 shows a plan of a
button of this construction complete. Figure 35 shows a plan and section of
a disc for forming another bar button, the opening of which is of an oval or
oblong form, so that the bar 6 can be readily introduced lengthwise of the
opening, and afterwards turned with its opened ends embracing the inner edges
of the disc a, and when closed by dies and pressure, be securely retained in its
position.

page_text: The novelty consists of the modes described of constructing and fixing the
shanks of buttons.
Having thus described our several improvements, we would remark that we
do not confine ourselves to the precise details so long as the peculiar character
of any of our improvements be retained.
In witness whereof, I, the said James Newman, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Twenty-ninth day of October, One thousand eight