CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS; IN THE STRUCTION OR MANUFACTURE OF CONNECTORS OR FASTENINGS APPLICABLE TO GAB- MENTS AND OTHER. USES
Year: 1841

page_text: TO ALL. TO WHOM THESE, PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, WILLIAM
HENRY SMITH, of Finsbury Chambers, Bloomfield Street, London, Civil
Engineer, send greeting...
WHEREAS. Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent under the Great Seal, of Great Britain, bearing date at West-
minster, the Twenty-first day of December, in the fifth year of Her reign, did,
for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the said William
Henry Smith, Her especial licence, full power, sole privilege and authority, that
I, the said William Henry Smith, my exors, admors, and assigns, or such
others as I, the said William Henry Smith, my exors, admors, or assigns,
should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all
times during the term of years therein expressed, should and lawfully might
make, use, exercise, and vend, within England, Wales, and the Town of
CON-
Berwick-upon-Tweed, my Invention of "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS; IN THE
STRUCTION OR MANUFACTURE OF CONNECTORS OR FASTENINGS APPLICABLE TO GAB-
MENTS AND OTHER. USES;" in which said Letters Patent is contained a proviso
that I, the said William Henry Smith, do hereby declare that the nature of
my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, to. be
inrolled in' Her said Majesty's High Court of Chancery within six calendar
months nextand immediately after the date of the said in part recited Letters
Patent, as in and by the same, reference being thereunto had, will more fully
endiat large annear...

page_text: NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said
William Henry Smith, do hereby declare that the nature of my Invention,
and the manner in which the same is to be performed, are fully described
and ascertained in and by the following statement thereof, reference being
had to the Drawings hereunto annexed, and to the figures and letters marked 5
thereon, that is to say:-
My Invention relates,―
First, to a mode of constructing an apparatus for fastening the straps of
trowsers, and other purposes where similar fastenings are required.
Secondly, my Invention relates to a peculiar construction of hooks and 1
eyes for attaching parts of garments and other articles requiring such hooks
and eyes.
Thirdly, my Invention relates to the construction of an instrument or appa-
ratus, which, being placed on a button or other part of the dress, becomes a
means of securing a watch or other guard.
Fourthly, my Invention relates to constructing apparatus of metal for
fastening dresses and other articles when placed on lines to dry.
Fifthly, my Invention relates to a mode of affixing flexible shanks in the
backs of metal buttons.
Sixthly, my Invention relates to forming a series of radial grooves in the
backs of buttons in order to direct the needle when sewing on the buttons.
Seventhly, a mode of making brace buttons by combining a shell with
button board, paper, or other preparation of pulp.
1
2
Eighthly, to a mode of making covered buttons with a moveable back.
Ninthly, to a mode of making brace buttons with cross threads, as a means 2
of fixing the same. And,
Tenthly, to a mode of constructing tags for laces.

page_text: that the parts a, b, come opposite each other. A is the plate which is attixed
to the trowsers, and B, the plate which is affixed to the strap.
I will now describe the second part of my Invention. Figure 5 shows
a hook, and Figure 6 an eye, according to this part of my improvements;
Figure 7 shows the plan of a hook and eye combined; and Figure 8 shows
an edge view of a hook and eye combined. The object of this part of my
Invention is to so form the hook in respect to the eye that when the hook is
within the eye, that any movement of the two parts of a garment to which those
parts are respectively attached shall not causethe hook to be unhooked from the
eye; on the contrary, owing to the peculiar formation of the hook in respect to
the eye, the tendency of sliding them in the same or nearly the same plane
shall be to cause the stem of the hook to pass within the eye, and when again
drawn back for the hook again securely to hold; and this is accomplished by
having the interior of the eye a triangle, as shewn, and the portion of the
hook which hooks into the eye, at the point where the bend from the stem
takes place, is formed to turned off in angular direction on either side. a is the
stem of thehook, having the usual means for attaching it to a part ofagarment;
the bend is formed at b, and then each part of the stem is bent at an angle,
as is shewn at c and d, and then the two parts of the stem come together and
form the point or finish of the hook at e. By this arrangement, and when the
parts are coupled together they will not separate by any approach of the
parts of the garment to which they are respectively attached unless the stem
of the hook be brought into a vertical or nearly vertical position in respect to
the eye, as is shewn by dotted lines in Figure 8; and it will be obvious, that
such must be the effect, in consequence of the two angular parts c,d, of the
hook when pressed into the eye (in the same plane in which the eye is in)
that those two angular parts c,d, will come against the two angular sides of the
eye, and be supported by them; and such will be the case on drawing back the
stem of the hook, the parts c, d, of the hook will rest against the two angular
sides of the eye, and the hook will thus be guided back to its proper holding
position. It will therefore be evident that the hook will not be liable to be
separated from the eye by any of the ordinary circumstances to which hooks
and eyes are liable. Another improvement in the construction of hooks for
attaching parts of garments relates to those hooks where there is an eye or
loop formed of thread of silk or other material, such improvement consisting
of a somewhat similar hook to that above described; but the hook in this case
is bent so that the sides of the open space formed in the hook will descend on
either side of the stem, leaving a space wide enough for the passage of the
thread loop or eye passing between the sides of the stem of the hook and

page_text: the inner surfaces of the sides of the open space in the hook. Figure 9
shows a plan and side view of a hook according to this construction. a is the
stem, and 6 the hook, which has an open space formed of such a width that
when bent, as shewn at c, the two sides desceud as low (or lower) as the
thickness of the stem, leaving a space, as above stated, between the stem and
the sides of the parts c; hence, in hooking this hook into a flexible eye, the
material of the eye will be bent over the stem before it can pass beyond the
points c, by which means the hook will remain holding till a force is used
equal to bend the flexible material of the eye over the stem and under the
bends c of the hook.
I will now describe the third part of my Invention, which relates to a mode
of constructing an apparatus to attach a guard to a button or other convenient
part of a garment. Figure 10 shews a plan of an instrument for that purpose,
to which a chain or strong cord is attached, as is shewn; and to the other end
of such chain or cord the watch, or purse, or pocket book, or other article is
attached by any convenient holder, such as a split ring or otherwise. The
instrument is placed on the button by passing it through the part a, a, and
when the shank of the button rests within the part b.
I will now describe the fourth part of my Invention, which relates to a
mode of constructing the "pegs" used for securing clothes and other articles
to lines when hung out to dry, and consists in forming such "pegs" of metal
in place of wood. Figure 11 shews a side and end view of a metal peg
according to my Invention, and I prefer to make such pegs of brass well
tinned or otherwise coated, but I do not confine myself thereto so long as the
metal be such as not to discolor the fabrics so held. The form shewn at
Figure 11 I believe to be the best for this purpose, but I do not confine myself
thereto; the object being to have an elastic holder, of metal, to slide over the
article suspended on a line, and so to hold the same thereon.
I will now describe the fifth part of my Invention, which relates to a
mode of fixing flexible shanks in metal buttons, and consists in forming the
opening through which the shank is passed into a serated edge, and causing
the points thereof to protrude outwards, as is shown at Figure 12.-The
button is to beformed intothis state and completed before applying the shank,
the object being that the materials of which the flexible shank is formed shall
not be injured by any of the processes to which the button itself is necessarily
subjected. The button having been made and completed in the ordinary way,
excepting the shank and part which receives it the shank is to be introduced;
for this purpose, I Icause a disc of strong cloth to be pressed into the shape
shown at Figure 13, and I introduce the end into the opening at a, and

page_text: having done so, I cause the points of the serated edge to be pressed inwards
by a bell-mouthed tool; by this means I bring the projecting points to nearly
a horizontal position in respect to the back of the buttons. I then further
press the points inwards, so that they protrude into the interior of the button,
by which means the shank will be securely held.
I will now describe the sixth part of my Invention, which is shown at
Figure 14. This improvements consists in forming the back shell or collet
of a button with several radial grooves which guide the needle in sewing
them to garments. a, a, a, show the radial grooves.
I will now describe the seventh part of my Invention. Figure 15 shews a
section, and Figure 16 a plan of a brace button made according to this part
of my Invention. a is the metal shell, and 6 is the internal core of button
board or other preparation of paper or pulp, which should be prepared with
oil, in the same manner as when for japanning purposes. In making this
construction of button the shell is sunk and pierced, and the form of paper or
pulp being pierced is then introduced and the edges of the shell forced down
and the button formed into the figure desired; and the button thus produced
is to be japanned, and it will be found to possess the advantage, amongst
others, of not cutting or injuring the thread, and will give a fuller substance of
button at a lighter weight than when made wholly of metal.
I will now describe the eighth part of my Invention. Figures 17, 18,
and 19, represent a button, in which the upper plate and face of the button
may be attached and detached at pleasure. The upper plate or disc a is
serated on the edge for the purpose of readily gripping the material; it is
placed into a cylinder and affixed to the material, the edge of the shell is
then covered with gum or other cement; the edge is turned over and down,
as shewn at Figure 19. The under plate is made either with the inner edge
serated or an inner plate serated with the outer plate,as usual,excepting being
in a small degree oblong, sufficiently to spring the slight plate into the upper
shell, which, when turned round, becomes still more securely attached.
I will now describe the ninth part of my Invention. Figures 20 and 21
shew in plan and section a button so constructed that, by means of an open
tissue of network or thread, the cord usually formed around the button
shall, by its projections, fill up the interstices of the fabric. It is formed
similar to the last, substituting a ring or collet for the cement.
I will now describe the tenth part of my Invention. Figure 22 shews a
tag for laces, with a vandyked or serated edge, which, when turned over and
into the tag, forms a secure fastening and round edge, thus avoiding cutting
the eyelet hole; it may be either formed from the ordinary plate or drawr.
from the solid.

page_text: Having thus described the nature of my Invention, and the manner in
which the same is to be carried into effect, I would have it understood that
what I claim as the first part of my Invention is, the mode of constructing
hooks and eyes for trowser straps by forming the opening into the eye nar-
rower than the eye itself when combined with a hook, having a narrow part
suitable for entering into the narrow opening into the eye.
Secondly, I claim the mode of constructing hooks and eyes, each hook
being formed into two inclined surfaces c, d,at the point where the bend from
the stem takes place, such hook working with a triangular eye, as above
explained. And I also claim the mode of constructing hooks for flexible eyes;
shewn and described in respect to Figures 8 and 9.
Thirdly, I claim the mode of constructing an instrument for attaching a
guard for a watch or other article to a button or other part of the dress, as
described in respect to Figure 10.
Fourthly, I claim the mode of making "clothes pegs "for securing dresses!
and other articles suspended on lines to dry, by forming them of elastic metal,
as explained.
Fifthly, I claim the mode of affixing flexible shanks to metal buttons, by
forming the holes through which the shanks pass with serated edges, which,
being bent inwards, securely hold the shanks.
Sixthly, I claim. the mode of constructing and ornamenting the backs of
buttons by sinking or forming radial grooves in the back shells or collets of
buttons.
Seventhly, I claim the mode of making brace buttons, by applying button
board or other composition of paper or pulp, in metal shells, as above.
described.
Eighthly, I claim the mode of making buttons, by applying a moveable
back or collet having a shank applied thereto.
Ninthly, I claim the mode of making brace buttons by applying threads
across the opening through the centre, such cross of threads being held by.
the combining of two shells into a button. And,
Tenthly, I claim the mode of forming tags to stay and such like laces by
serating the edges, in order that the projecting points may be turned into
the lace, as above described.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Henry Smith, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, this Twenty-first day of June, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and forty-two.
WILLIAM HENRY (L.s.) SMITH.

page_text: AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the Twenty-first day of June, in the
year of our Lord 1842, the aforesaid William Henry Smith came before our
said Lady the Queen in Her Chancery, and acknowledged the Specification
aforesaid, and all and every thing therein contained and specified, in form
above written. And also the Specification aforesaid was stamped according
to the tenor of the Statute made for that purpose.
Inrolled the Twenty-first day of June in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and forty-two.