CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN THE METHOD AND MEANS OF SECURING BUTTONS AND BUTTON HOLES, HOOKS AND EYES TO WEARING APPAREL AND OTHER OBIECTS TO WHICH SUCH FASTENINGS ARE APPLIED."
Year: 1867

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to James Hesse, of Dundalk, Ireland, for the Invention
of "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN THE METHOD AND MEANS OF SECURING
BUTTONS AND BUTTON HOLES, HOOKS AND EYES TO WEARING APPAREL AND
OTHER OBIECTS TO WHICH SUCH FASTENINGS ARE APPLIED."
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said James Hesse at the
Offices of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 26th
March 1867.
I, JAMES HESSE, of Dundalk, Ireland, do hereby declare the nature of the
said Invention for "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN THE METHOD AND MEANS OF
SECURING BUTTONS AND BUTTON HOLES, HOOKS AND EYES TO WEARING APPAREL
AND OTHER OBJECTS TO WHICH SUCH FASTENINGS ARE APPLIED," to be as follows:-
This Invention consists in attaching buttons, hooks and eyes, and the for-
mation of button holes during the process of weaving, and is applicable to any
class of wearing apparel, furniture covering, or other article fastening by the
above means.
My mode of procedure is as follows:-I weave strips of cotton, linen, or
other material of any desired length or width, fixing the buttons, hooks or
[Price 8d.1

page_text: eyes, and forming the button holes where desired at the same time. These
strips I employ for forming the front plaids, bands, and wristbands of shirts or
other articles of wearing apparel, furniture coverings, or other articles.
The buttons, hooks, or eyes are fastened with sail makers' yarn or other
flexible material, the threads of which being tied to the central warp threads
(also of stout substance) are afterwards used as weft.
In making the button holes I cause the weft to be twisted round the inner
threads of the button hole for giving strength thereto.
Hook and eyes are fastened in the same way as the buttons.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said James Hesse in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 24th
September 1867.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JAMES
HESSE, of Dundalk, Ireland, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-sixth day of March, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-seven, in the thirtieth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me,
the said James Hesse, Her special licence that I, the said James Hesse, my
executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said James
Hesse, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the
term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel
Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN
METHOD AND MEANS OF SECURING BUTTONS AND BUTTON HOLES, HOOKS AND EYES
TO WEARING APPAREL AND OTHER OBJECTS TO WHICH SUCH FASTENINGS ARE
APPLIED upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said James Hesse,
my executors, or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or
their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascer-
tain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was
to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent
Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the
said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said James Hesse, do hereby declare the
nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-

page_text: formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement, that is to say:-
This Invention consists in attaching buttons, hooks or eyes, and in the for-
mation of button holes during the process of weaving, and is applicable to any
class of wearing apparel, furniture covering, and indeed any article fastening
by means of buttons, hooks, and eyes. By my process of manufacture the
buttons are much less liable to come off, as they are tied with strong thread
or yarn to the central warp threads; the threads by which they are attached
being used as weft, it will readily be perceived that unless the buttons should
be broken there is no possibility of their coming off, and in order to avoid
this I make use only of such buttons as are capable of supporting any such
casualty.
My mode of procedure is as follows:-I weave strips of cotton, linen, or
other flexible material of any desired width or length; these I employ for
forming the inside front plaits or folds, bands and wristbands of shirts, or
to serve as fastenings to furniture coverings, or any article connected by the
above-named means. The same principle may be applied to cloth to be after-
wards used as lining to garments.
The buttons are affixed where required by tying them by means of threads
of sail makers' or shoe makers' yarn or other flexible substance to the central
warp threads, which are also of a similar substance or material, previously
passing them through the holes in the button: these threads are then after-
wards used as weft.
I
In making button holes I have four threads in the reed where the button
hole is to be formed; these threads work like any other warp between the
button holes, but where the button holes are the first and second threads form
a web of themselves, the third and fourth also forming a separate web, so as
to make two webs, one overlaping the other. This species of button hole may
be made with more or less threads, and the method of twisting the weft round
the inner threads gives greater strength to the button hole.
In fixing the hooks or eyes I weave slots in the same manner as the button
holes in two separate webs, one for the insertion of the hook and the other to
serve as eye or eyelet.
Having thus described my Invention, what I claim and desire to secure by
Letters Patent is,-
First, the method of attaching hooks and eyes or buttons during the
weaving process, or rather by means of tying and weaving in lieu of sewing.
Secondly, the use of two separate threads for attaching them, the said
threads being by preference sail makers' or shoe makers' yarn.

page_text: Thirdly, the manner of weaving the button holes, and the method of
employing two webs, one overlaping the other, in the formation of the button
hole or eyelet.
In witness whereof, I, the said James Hesse, have hereunto set my hand
and seal, this Seventeenth day of September, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-seven.
Witness,
A. C. HENDERSON,
31, Charing Cross.
JAMES HESSE. (L.S.)