Improvements in Boots and Shoes.
Year: 1899

page_text: Date of Application, 14th Nov., 1899-Accepted, 16th Dec., 1899
Improvements in Boots and Shoes.
We, JOHN ARRON KELLY, of 309, Almond Street, and SEWARD EARL BOWMAN,
of 506, University Avenue, both of Syracuse, United States of America, Manu-
facturers, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in
and by the following statement:-
This invention relates to improvements in the construction and manufacture
of shoes.
Our object is to produce a turned shoe, having all of the advantages of an
ordinary turned shoe, and yet, at the same time, providing it with a sole sufti-
ciently thick to give it all the advantages of an ordinary welt shoe.
The usual way of making a turned shoe is to remove the upper outer edge of
the sole, and stitch close to the remaining inner portion or edge, so that when
the shoe is completed, the sole, at the edges, at most, is only one-half as thick
as the remaining portion of the sole.
Our invention consists in a sole having a channel inside of the outer edge
and forming the channel sufficiently broad and deep to receive the edge of the
bent portion of the upper, and thus form not only a support and protection for
the upper where it comes in contact with the sole, but to relieve the strain of
the stitching from the upper when the pressure of the foot exerts a lateral pres-
sure thereon.
In manufacturing turned shoes by the old way, the scam or stitch remains
unprotected in most shoes, in view of the fact that the upper outer edge of
the sole is removed. The pressure of the foot within the upper produces a
strain away from the base of the stitch, and it soon wears in two or breaks,
while in our improved shoe, the upper edge of the sole is allowed to remain,
and there being a deep channel just inside causes the pressure of the foot to
force the edge of the upper against the base of the stitch, and thereby add
greatly to its endurance.
It is constructed as follows reference being had to the accompanying drawings,
in which,
Fig. 1, is a side view of a turned shoe, constructed in accordance with our
invention, showing the outer edge of the sole as thick as the remaining portion.
Fig. 2, is a cross section on line, r, Fig. 1.
Fig. 3, is a top plan view of the sole, before it has been stitched to the upper.
Fig. 4, is a cross section on line y, y, Fig. 3.
Fig. 5, shows one side of the sole, showing the course the needle will take,
and the outer edge of the sole forced temporarily out of alignment.
Fig. 6, is an enlarged view of the upper and sole, shown in Fig. 2.
.
A is a turned shoe, comprising an upper a and the sole b which has a groove
or channel c formed around its edge and sufficiently far from the edge to allow
the outer portion of the groove, or channel to form a shoulder g, which forms
a support for the bent or doubled edge of the upper a. This groove or channel c
is made sufficiently wide and deep to relieve the lower bent edge of the upper,
and at the same time to allow the inner edge of the upper to rest directly
against the shoulder or between-substance c¹ which is formed by turning up

page_text: the leather which has been cut from the sole in forming the groove or channel.
Inside of this shoulder c¹ is the channel b¹ which is formed in the usual manner.
In order to allow the upper a to be stitched to the sole b, as shown in Figs. 2
and 6, without any interference on the part of the outer edge of the sole, this
outer edge d is turned downward out of alignment with the main portion of
the sole, as shown in Fig. 5, and thus the stitching can be done without any
interference.
As is well known, in turned shoes, the shoe is larger after it is turned than it
was before, and hence, in order to compensate for this enlargement resulting
from turning the shoe, an insole e is placed in between tho shoulders, as shown
in Figs. 2, and 6. and which insole reaches preferably to the top of the shoulders.
When the pressure of the foot is brought to bear upon this insole, a lateral
pressure is exerted upon the sole at the line of stitching, and this lateral pres-
sure is taken up b-- the shoulder g, and thus the line of stitching is relieved from
all strain, for the pressure against the upper is transferred to the shoulder g.
As the insole e compensates for the additional size inside of the shoe after
it is turned, and as the shoulder 9 receives the pressure from the upper, a
thicker sole is produced, and the sole is raised further from the ground than
has heretofore been possible in turned shoes, and as most of the strain upon
the line of stitching is transferred to the shoulder g, a heavier, stronger and
better shoe is produced, and yet one which is more elastic than those which have
heretofore been made on account of the elasticity of the insole. Another advan-
tage gained by the construction shown is that the sole is as thick at its outer
edge as it is at its center.
It will also be observed that by using the filler which fills up the entire space
between the shoulders, and thereby covering the inner channel, wo prevent
the moisture of the foot from reaching the sole and the stitching, which would
otherwise cause them to rot.
It will also be observed that the stitching being protected on the outside by
the shoulder resting up against the upper, and the inside by the lip c', the
stitching is relieved of all friction.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said in-
vention and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what
we claim is:-
1. A sole having a groove or channel c formed around inside of its edge, and
a second groove or channel formed inside of the outer one, and having a shoulder
formed between the two grooves or channels, combined with an insole which is
placed between the shoulders, upon opposite sides of the sole and the upper
which has its lower bent or doubled edge to catch inside of the groove or
chaunele so as to relieve the stitching from the lateral pressure exerted by the
foot; the insole rising preferably to a level with the top of the shoulders, the
stitches being passed through the up turned part of the doubled edge of the
upper and the between-substance, the outer edge of the doubled portion resting
against the shoulder g, substantially as specified.
2. A sole having a groove or channel formed around its outer edge, and of
sufficient width and depth to receive the edge of the upper a; a shoulder formed
around its outer edge, and which serves as a support for the edge of the upper,
and a channel b' formed inside of the channel e combined with the upper which
has its doubled edge inserted into the groove c, and an insole e which is applied
to the center of the sole and fills the center of the sole to the level of the between-
substance c, substantially as shown and described.
Hate the 14th day of November 1800
D. YOUNG & Co.,
11 & 12, Southampton Buildings, London, W.C.,
Agents for the Applicants.