IMPROVEMENTS IN LASTING AND BENDING THE UPPERS OF BOOTS AND SHOES AND OTHER COVERINGS FOR THE FEET, ALSO IN STRETCHING LEATHER AND SKINS, AND IN THE MACHINERY OR APPARATUS EMPLOYED THEREIN
Year: 1876

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Edwin Powley Alexander, of 14, Southampton Buildings,
in the County of Middlesex, Consulting Engineer and Patent Agent, for the
Invention of " IMPROVEMENTS IN LASTING AND BENDING THE UPPERS OF BOOTS
AND SHOES AND OTHER COVERINGS FOR THE FEET, ALSO IN STRETCHING
LEATHER AND SKINS, AND IN THE MACHINERY OR APPARATUS EMPLOYED
THEREIN." A communication from abroad by René Cathelineau and Emile
Guépin, both of Paris, in the Republic of France.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Edwin Powley Alexander at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 27th June 1876.
EDWIN POWLEY ALEXANDER, of 14, Southampton Buildings, in the County of
Middlesex, Consulting Engineer and Patent Agent. "IMPROVEMENTS IN LASTING
AND BENDING THE UPPERS OF BOOTS AND SHOES AND OTHER COVERINGS FOR THE
FEET, ALSO IN STRETCHING LEATHER AND SKINS, AND IN THE MACHINERY OR
APPARATUS EMPLOYED THEREIN." A communication from abroad by René Catheli-
neau and Emile Guépin, both of Paris, in the Republic of France.
This Invention relates to an improved mode or method of and apparatus for
lasting and bending the upper leathers of boots and shoes and other coverings for
the feet, also for stretching leather and skins, whereby a gradual and efficient
tension can be mechanically applied to the same in any required direction and
maintained for any length of time, whilst from the extra amount of stretching
obtained by this Invention a saving in leather is effected.
According to one mode of carrying out the said Invention a machine is employed
consisting of three uprights mounted upon a table and connected by horizontal bars
disposed in two pairs one above the other, the bars of each pair being respectively
fixed to the opposite sides of the uprights so as to leave a space between them.
The uprights carry two horizontal screw spindles provided with moveable heads,
between which the last is gripped at the heel and toe, and is capable of being turned
or reversed between the screws when required. These screw spindles are fixed when
set up or adjusted by pinching screws. Beneath the last there are disposed three
vertically adjustable supports made adjustable laterally along the upper pair of
horizontal bars. The central support serves to hold the inner or false sole against
the bottom of the last, and is provided for that purpose with a number of trans-
[Price 6d.]

page_text: versely disposed pressing screws and spring plates. The other two supports are
provided with heads for receiving the different sized bearing or pressing pieces
required in mounting the uppers of boots and shoes of various sizes. The lower
pair of bars carry winding barrels with detents and ratchet wheels, and with or
without spur gearing for actuating such barrels. Round the said barrels there are
wound straps or other suitable flexible connectors having stirrups attached thereto,
from the two limbs of which lead other connectors, each attached to a pair of
pincers, one pair acting on one edge of the upper leather, and the other pair on the
opposite edge, so that on winding up the barrel a tension will be applied simul-
taneously to both edges of the leather tending to strain it thoroughly over the last.
Any desired number of pincers and straining barrels may be employed, disposed in
various positions and at different angles, according to the direction of pull or strain
required, and some of the said straining barrels may be disposed within the outer
one of the three fixed uprights.
The pincers may be of various forms and be made to grip or hold the edges of
the leather firmly either by the action of the strain exerted upon them by the
winding barrels or by means of a separate pinching screw in the jaws of the pincers
themselves. In some cases the strain upon the stirrups is exerted through the
intervention of a rack worked by a pinion, a jointed projecting catch or pin in the
rack engaging with the flexible connector which in this case should consist of a
chain. Several of these racks are operated simultaneously from one shaft, and the
several stirrups are then, if required, further strained individually by the action of
a chain wheel or barrel, the pin in the rack being made to yield and allow of the
further movement or tightening of the chain. After the upper has been well
strained over the last it is held thereon by the aid of a series of grippers worked
by tightening screws and made to fit across different parts of the last, the said
grippers being in some cases provided with spring pressing plates.
It is obvious that by disposing the winding drums or barrels and pincers con-
nected therewith in square or other shaped frames, skins or pieces of leather may
be subjected to a gradual stretching or extension in any required direction.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said Edwin Powley Alexander in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 27th
December 1876.
EDWIN POWLEY ALEXANDER, of 14, Southampton Buildings, in the County of
Middlesex, Consulting Engineer and Patent Agent. "IMPROVEMENTS IN LASTING
AND BENDING THE UPPERS OF BOOTS AND SHOES AND OTHER COVERINGS FOR THE
FEET, ALSO IN STRETCHING LEATHER AND SKINS, AND IN THE MACHINERY OR
APPARATUS EMPLOYED THEREIN." A communication from abroad by René Catheli-
neau and Einile Guépin, both of Paris, in the Republic of France.
The said Invention relates to an improved mode or method of and apparatus for
lasting and bending the upper leathers of boots and shoes and other coverings for
the feet, also for stretching leather and skins, whereby a gradual and efficient tension
can be mechanically applied to the same in any required direction and maintained
for any length of time, whilst from the extra amount of stretching obtained by this
Invention a saving in leather is effected.
And in order that the said Invention may be fully understood I shall now pro-
ceed more particularly to describe the same, and for that purpose shall refer to the
several Figures on the annexed Sheet of Drawings, the same letters of reference
indicating corresponding parts in all the corresponding Figures.
Figure 1 of the Drawings represents a side elevation of the improved machine
complete for mounting the uppers of boots and shoes; Figure 2 is a corresponding
plan of the same; Figure 3 is a transverse vertical section of the machine taken
along the line 1-2 in Figure 1. The whole of the apparatus is mounted upon

page_text: the table A, and supported by the two uprights B and B¹, and a vertical support B³.
These upright supports carry the horizontal bars C and C¹ fitted to each face of the
uprights. The upper bars C receive the vertically and laterally adjustable sup-
ports D, D¹, D¹, for the boot or shoe, the middle one D serving to maintain the
inner or false sole pressed firmly against the bottom of the last. It is provided
with a series of pressing screws b terminating in steel spring plates adjusted trans-
versely to the bottom of the boot or shoe. The two other supports D¹, D', are
provided with heads capable of holding bearances of various sizes required in the
operation of mounting. These bearances may be of different forins according to the
style and dimensions of the boot or shoe. The said supports have each a screwed
spindle passing through the space comprised between the horizontal bars C, and are
provided with a sliding block which slides along the slots c. A nut below and a
washer enable each support to be firmly secured when adjusted into its proper
position, whilst at the same time the said supports may be raised or lowered by
means of the screw thread on each. In order to hold the tips and heels of the boots
or shoes two screw spindles E are employed screwed through the uprights B, B1, B².
These screws, which may be actuated in any convenient or well-known manner, are
provided at their contiguous ends with moveable end pieces of different forms,
capable of being moved towards or from each other in order to admit lasts of various
sizes from the largest to the smallest being placed between them. Pinching screws e
are provided for preventing the screws E from becoming accidentally unscrewed.
The lower horizontal bars Care furnished with toothed wheels and actuating pinions.
Ratchets and detents regulate the tension or strain of the straps, chains, or cords
which are wound upon the windlass barrels F on the axes of the toothed wheels
and situate in the space between the two bars C¹. These parts are turned by keys
or handles of any convenient shape. The windlass barrels F serve to wind up and
tighten the straps, cords, or chains of the pincers which lay hold of the leather
placed over the last. A single thickness of the strap, cord, or chain is wound upon
cach windlass barrel, it is terminated by a ring or hook in which is engaged a
species of stirrup G, the hooked limbs of which receive the rings or hooks of tho
cords of the pincers P. By this means the two sides of the upper leather may be
drawn or pulled by a single barrel in an equal or unequal manner at will. The
arrangement of the windlass barrels is such as to admit of the strains being exerted
in any required direction. Between the screws and the upper bar the uprights are
made open in order to allow of the passage of the straining cords or straps of the
end windlass barrels. The front upright of the apparatus is formed with two lugs,
between which is placed a guide roller H for guiding the strap of the first pincer so
as to cause it to exert a strain in an oblique direction, which could only be other-
wise accomplished by inconveniently extending the bars C¹. The same arrange-
ment may be used in other parts where it is desired to deflect the angle of the
strain from a right line. As will be seen on referring to Figure 3 this mode of
straining or stretching is as simple as it is effective, and will be readily understood
from the Drawing without further explanation. The shape and arrangement of
the parts may be modified according to circumstances.
=
When the straining of the leather placed upon the last is complete, a series of
spring clamps of different forms is applied in order to maintain or hold the leather
firmly in its place upon the last. For example, Figures 8, 9, and 10 illustrate
different modifications of these clamps or holders which may be used as found
most convenient.
In the arrangement shown at Figure 5 a flat band of iron I is fitted to the end
of one of the screws E, which band is shaped to fit the upper part of the last from
the toe to the ankle. It is provided with a slot or groove for receiving the clamps G
(Figure 8), along which they are free to slide. These clamps may also receive a
to-and-fro motion from below upwards. They are so made that on bringing
together the two upper arms by means of the screw the two lower limbs approach
in proportion. The ends of these lower limbs carry two steel plates forming springs.
These plates are not used in the clamps employed in cambering or bending leather.

page_text: Of courze the shape of the clamps will vary according to the kind of boot or shoe,
ordinarily four different sizes will be required.
The second form of clamp, Figure 9, consists of a curved strip of metal G and a
band of steel g also curved, but of smaller dimensions than the former, to which it
is united by pins. Two screws working through the rigid arms or limbs press
against the arms of the steel band or spring and serve to hold or grip the upper
leather. The springs are lined with india-rubber or leather.
A third modification of different form, but producing the same effect as the
previous one, is illustrated at Figure 10. It consists of two arms G turning on
fixed fulcrum pins. They carry at one end a sliding piece g through which passes
the screw v. On turning this screw in one direction the opposite ends of the arms
approach each other like the arms of the previously described clamps, they are also
faced with leather or india-rubber.
Figures 11 and 12 represent face and side views of a simple and convenient
form of clamp, consisting of two crossed arms G connected together in the middle by
a rivet or stud. One of the ends of one arm is looked as at c, in which hook
The other arm carries
engages the swivelling pin which terminates the screw v.
an oscillating nut t, through which works the screw v. On turning this screw so as
to cause the upper ends of the arms to approach, the lower ends will approach in
proportion without any inconvenient strain upon the screw.
In putting this Invention into operation the several straining stirrups G (Figure 1)
are first adjusted by attaching them to the bars C by india-rubber bands in order
that they may remain suspended and ready for receiving the hooks of the pincers.
The centre support D is then adjusted to its proper position, and upon the plate
on the top thereof there is placed the last with its inner sole and upper leather.
The end of the last is adjusted against the raised end of the pressing plate, and in
order that the end of the last may be maintained perfectly and securely in position,
the heel screw is forcibly screwed forward. The pincers are then caused to seize
the edge of the upper leather at convenient intervals on both sides, and at the
front and rear, the number of pincers employed being such as will ensure a regular
and powerful strain being exerted upon the leather in the directions required on
winding up the corresponding windlass barrels.
The straining being accomplished the spring clamps (Figures 8, 9, 10, and 11,)
are applied, selecting such as may be most suitable or convenient for the purpose
and in any required number. The pincers and support D are then withdrawn,
and the two screws E, E, are caused to approach in order that the boot or shoe
may rest suspended between the bearing plates or surfaces with which the said
screws are provided. The last is turned so as to bring the top downwards, and
the supports D¹, D', are caused to approach, and when adjusted the one under the
toe and the other under the heel of the last admit of the workman driving the
small nails and stitching or screwing at will. The leather perfectly stretched over
the last may be hammered, flattened, or otherwise treated in a superior manner to
that which has hitherto been accomplished. In this manner boots, shoes, and other
varieties of similar coverings for the feet can be easily mounted.
Figure 18 represents a last holder which it is proposed to employ for the purpose
of finishing the operations of mounting. It consists of a pedestal F secured by a
nut to a table or stand. In the central aperture of this pedestal there is intro-
duced the stem C of a stirrup holder, shown in detail at Figures 19 and 20, which
receives and holds fast the toe of the boot or shoe mounted on its last. A rod bent
at right angles T adjustable in the stem C supports at its upright extremity the large
end of the last, within which penetrates a shouldered portion of the said rod T.
The horizontal portion of this rod is fixed in its place in the stem C by a pinching
screw. This arrangement is most convenient and may be regulated or adjusted
to any size of boot or shoe, and the workman is enabled to pivot or turn the last
in any desired direction, and will henceforth dispence with the operation of mounting
on the knees of the workman as heretofore practised.
The characteristic feature of the said Invention consists therefore in the gradual

page_text: pulling or straining of the upper leather in all directions with the force required.
The windlass barrels may either be actuated direct or through the intervention of
slow gearing in order to increase the power, as shown in the Drawings.
The same system may be variously modified, according to the uses to which it is
to be applied. For example, Figure 4 represents an arrangement specially adapted
for mounting shoes and for cambering or bending the uppers, it is more simple than
the previously described arrangement whilst still presenting the same advantages
of gradual and steady strain exerted by isolated windlass barrels, hooked pincers,
stirrups, and the rest.
Figure 6 represents a shoe holder, the cast iron frame of which is provided with
brackets for supporting the uprights. The central support is provided with a
pressing screw worked by a cross handle, enabling the bearing point to be adjusted
to the required height.
In order to effect the pulling of the pincers the combination shown at Figure 7
may also be used; it consists of racks J actuated by pinions K mounted on one
single shaft L. This shaft L is carried by the horizontal bars M, which receive on
one side chain wheels, the chains gearing or engaging at one part with the said
wheels, and being attached at the end to the stirrup G, and engaged also with the
pin N on the rack, so that when the racks J are lowered they will draw down with
them the stirrups, and exert a general drag or pull upon the pincers connected
therewith. This general tension or strain having been applied and maintained by
a ratchet wheel and catch at the end of the shaft L, it becomes easy to exert a still
farther strain or tension upon any of the stirrups individually in the following
manner: The chain being hooked to the pin N, which is so disposed as to be free
to turn downwards from a horizontal position, but not free to rise above that
position, will on descending escape from the pin and effect any partial or local
strain required without operating upon the rack. The winding of the chain is in
this case effected in the same manner as for the cords or chains of the first described
arrangement, and may be accomplished by the aid of keys, lever handles, or other-
wise in conjunction or not with gearing.
Figures 13 and 14 represent respectively a face and side view of another arrange-
ment by which the pull or strain of the pincers may be accomplished by the aid of
a screw turning in a nut fixed in a bar b of the machine, and actuated by a key,
handle, or fly-wheel.
I will now proceed to refer to the pincers which it is proposed to employ in
stretching leather. They are of various forms, as will be seen on referring to
Figures 13, 15, 16, and 17. That shown at Figure 13 is a most useful arrangement,
it consists of a metal ring o passed on to a rod placed below the shoe of two pairs
of pincers P of two rods Q hooked into one of the limbs of the pincers, and into the
rings of the stirrup G. In order to maintain the pincers closed and suspended
india-rubber rings R are employed. Figures 16 and 17 represent two forms of
simple pincers, the one operating through a lever, the other provided with a screw
for bringing the holding jaws together.
The system of gradual strain or tension applied in every direction may be most
advantageously employed in the stretching generally of leather, skins, or woven
fabrics by adopting frames provided with winding barrels and detents, stirrups, and
pincers, such as have been herein-before described. The stretching may be applied
either to skins or to uppers of boots or shoes at the time of hammering or beating
the leather, which thus becomes considerably extended under the operation.
The application and use of the above-described stretching frames forms a material
and important feature in the process for the preparation of leather for the manu-
facture of boots, shoes, and other similar coverings for the feet. The economy which
results from the employment of this system and means for stretching leather is con-
siderable, as uppers of a smaller size can be easily applied to lasts of a higher
number without fear of any undue shrinking of the leather.
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of the said Inven-
tion, and the manner in which the same is or may be used or carried into effect, I

page_text: would observe in conclusion that what I consider to be novel and original, and
therefore claim as the Invention secured to me by the herein-before in part recited
Letters Patent is―
First. The peculiar constructions and arrangements of apparatus to be employed
in the stretching of leather and skins, as herein-before described and illustrated by
the Drawings annexed.
Secondly. The combination of the peculiar pincers, stirrups, straining straps,
chains, or cords, and windlass barrels when arranged to operate together, sub-
stantially as and for the purposes herein-before described.
Thirdly. The peculiar construction and arrangement of supports for facilitating
the lasting or mounting of boots and shoes, as herein-before described and illustrated
by the Drawings.
Fourthly. The application and use of the various forms of pincers and clamps or
their equivalent for straining and holding the uppers of boots and shoes firmly upon
the last, as herein-before described and illustrated by the Drawings.
In witness whereof, I, the said Edwin Powley Alexander, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Twenty-third day of December, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-six.
EDWIN P. ALEXANDER. (L.S.)