IMPROVED MEANS OF FORMING THREADS AND THE PRODUCTION OF FABRICS THEREFROM
Year: 1872

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Thomas James Smith, of the Firm of Robertson,
Brooman, and Company, of 166, Fleet Street, in the City of London,
Patent Agents, for the Invention of "IMPROVED MEANS OF FORMING
THREADS AND THE PRODUCTION OF FABRICS THEREFROM."-A communication
from abroad by the late Stanislas Vigoureux, of St. Denis, in the
T
Manufacturnas
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Thomas James Smith
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition,
on the 24th October 1872.
I, THOMAS JAMES SMITH, of the Firm of Robertson, Brooman, and
Company, of 166, Fleet Street, in the City of London, Patent Agents,
do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVED MEANS
OF FORMING THREADS AND THE PRODUCTION OF FABRICS THEREFROM," to be as
follows:-
°
-
This Invention has for object,-
1st. A new or improved means of forming multiple thrown threads
composed either of a first simple throwing which is enveloped by means
of a twisting machine with an additional throwing of a meshed substance,

page_text: ribbon, or thread crossing the first thrown thread diagonally in opposite
directions, or in the same direction in a longer helix or spiral, or by
drawing and throwing together in the mechanism two preparations or
ribbons of different colours or shades or different filamentous matters in
order to constitute the first thrown thread. Then this simple thread is
transferred into a multiple throwing by covering it also by means of
the twister with a third ribbon or mesh in helices crossed diagonally or
in the same direction, but more elongated than in the first throwing.
2ndly. The production by means of multiple thrown threads of
fabrics which come from the weaving operation with peculiar effects,
having a speckled, mottled, dotted, or chiné appearance, which results
from the composition of the dyed thrown threads.
3rdly. The manufacture of undyed fabrics by weaving with multiple
undyed thrown threads composed of filamentous materials of different
natures, the fabrics being afterwards dyed in the piece with regular chiné
or dotted effects, which result from the employment of different fila-.
mentous matters which produce themselves in contrasting colours upon
the crossed twists in an opposite direction, or in the same direction with
a more elongated spiral.
The structure and composition of the multiple thrown threads and of
the fabrics resulting from them, when the multiple threads are employed,
dyed or undyed, will be understood by the following:-
1st. The structure of the dyed or undyed thrown threads. Instead of
forming as usual the thrown threads with two simple threads interlacing
or covering one another a complementary throwing is added which crosses
the first throwing either diagonally in the opposite direction or in longer
spirals in the same direction. Whatever may be the first throwing it is
upon the twisting mechanism that it is surrounded with the comple-
mentary throwing. It is preferred to operate the first throwing in
the twister as well as the after ones. In that case the two meshed
preparations or ribbons are taken either differently dyed or of different
materials, but undyed. These two preparations stretch and become
thrown at the same time upon the twister. The first throwing obtained
receives from the rope machine the complementary throwing which
either crosses it diagonally or runs in a longer spiral in the same direc-
tion by means of a preparation ribbon or mech either differently dyed or
undyed and formed of different material.

page_text: The multiple thrown threads just mentioned are formed from fila-
mentous matters previously dyed or from undyed matters, but of differing
materials, or from matters previously dyed, say with indigo or other
ground colour, or even with the colour fixed or when they have under-
gone all the preparatory treatments.
In the manufacture of fabrics with the said multiple thrown threads the
employment of my threads produces new industrial results. 1st. The
fabrics manufactured with the dyed multiple thrown threads proceed
from the weaving operation with a chiné or varied appearance, which is
softer and more regular than that hitherto produced. 2ndly. The fabrics
manufactured with the undyed multiple thrown threads of different
filamentous materials will produce, when the woven piece has undergone
the dyeing operation effects with a peculiar dotted or stippling appear-
ance which results from the different effects produced by the bath of dye
upon each of the twists composing the thrown thread, the said twists
being formed of cotton, wool, silk, linen, hemp, china grass, or any other
textile or filamentous material.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters "Patent,
filed by the said Thomas James Smith in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 24th April 1873.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, THOMAS
JAMES SMITH, of the Firm of Robertson, Brooman, and Company, of
166, Fleet Street, in the City of London, Patent Agents, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-fourth day of October, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-two, in the thirty-
sixth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give
and grant unto me, the said Thomas James Smith, Her special licence
that I, the said Thomas James Smith, my executors, administrators,
and assigns, or such others as I, the said Thomas James Smith, my
executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with,
and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the
term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise,
and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland,
the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVED MEANS

page_text: commu-
OF FORMING THREADS AND THE PRODUCTION OF FABRICS THEREFROM,"
nicated to me from abroad by Stanislas Vigoureux, of St. Denis, in the
Republic of France, Manufacturer, upon the condition (amongst others)
that I, the said Thomas James Smith, my executors or administrators,
by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands
and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the
said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and
cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six
calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters
Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Thomas James Smith, do hereby
declare the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same
is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement thereof, that is to say :—
This Invention has for object, _
First. A new or improved means of forming multiple thrown threads
composed either of a first simple throwing which is enveloped by means
of a twisting machine, with an additional throwing of a meshed sub-
stance, ribbon, or thread crossing the first thrown thread diagonally in
opposite directions or in the same direction, in a longer helix or spiral,
or by drawing and throwing together in the mechanism two preparations
or ribbons of different colours or shades, or different filamentous matters,
in order to constitute the first thrown thread. Then this simple thread
is transformed into a multiple throwing by covering it also by means of
the twister with a third ribbon or mesh in helices crossed diagonally or
in the same direction, but more elongated than in the first throwing.
Secondly. The production, by means of these multiple thrown threads,
of fabrics which come from the weaving operation with peculiar effects,
having a speckled, mottled, dotted, or chiné appearance, which results
from the composition of the dyed thrown threads.
Thirdly. The manufacture of undyed fabrics by weaving with multiple
undyed thrown threads composed of filamentous material of different
natures, the fabrics being afterwards dyed in the piece with regular
chiné or dotted effects, which result from the employment of different
filamentous matters which produce themselves in contrasting colours
upon the crossed twists in an opposite direction, or in the same direction.
with a more elongated spiral.

page_text: The structure and composition of the multiple thrown threads and of
the fabrics resulting from them when the multiple thrown threads are
employed, dyed or undyed, will be understood from the following :-
First. The structure of the dyed or undyed thrown threads. Instead of
forming, as usual, the thrown threads with two simple threads inter-
lacing or covering one another, a complementary throwing is added which
crosses the first throwing either diagonally in the opposite direction,
or in longer spirals in the same direction. Whatever may be the first
throwing, it is upon the twisting mechanism that it is surrounded with
the complementary throwing. It is preferred to operate the first throwing
in the twister as well as the after ones. In that case the two meslied
preparations or ribbons are taken, either differently dyed, or of different
materials, but undyed. These two preparations stretch and become
thrown at the same time upon the twister. The first throwing obtained
receives from the twister the complementary throwing, which either
crosses it diagonally, or runs in a longer spiral in the same direction, by
means of a preparation, ribbon, or mesh either differently dyed or
undyed, and formed of different materials.
The multiple thrown threads just mentioned are formed from fila-
mentous matters previously died, or from undyed matters, but of different
materials, or from matters previously dyed, say, with indigo or other
ground colour, or even with the colour fixed, or when they have under-
gone all the preparatory treatments.
Secondly. In the manufacture of fabrics with the said multiple thrown
threads. The employment of these threads produces new industrial
results: first, the fabrics manufactured with the dyed multiple thrown
threads proceed from the weaving operation with a chiné or varied
appearance which is softer and more regular than that hitherto produced;
secondly, the fabrics manufactured with the undyed multiple thrown
threads of different filamentous materials will produce, when the woven
piece has undergone the dyeing operation, effects with a peculiar dotted
or stippling appearance, which results from the different effect produced
by the bath of dye upon each of the twists composing the thrown thread,
the said twists being formed of cotton, wool, silk, linen, hemp, china
grass, or any other textile or filamentous material.
And having now described the nature of the said Invention, and in
what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that its purpose is to

page_text: modify the irregularities of fabrics manufactured from the ordinary
thrown threads, by a complementary throwing, either of one thread, or
of a mesh or ribbon crossing the spirals of the first throwing diagonally
in the opposite direction, or in longer helices or spirals in the same
direction; and I claim,-
Firstly. The structure of multiple thrown threads composed of a first
thrown thread enveloped by a second throwing in the conditions
described, that is to say, with dyed or undyed threads or filaments.
Secondly. The application of the twisting machine to the first throwing,
and also the formation of the second throwing by its means.
Thirdly. The manufacture with dyed multiple thrown threads of
fabrics with a dotted or chiné appearance and varied effects softer and
more regular than those hitherto produced.
Fourthly. The manufacture with undyed multiple thrown threads of
undyed fabrics which, after dyeing, assume a dotted or stippling
appearance varying according to the nature of the filamentous materials
at the twist.
And, fifthly. The preparatory dyeing of filamentous materials in indigo
or other or fixed ground colour in order to prepare the woven piece to
afterwards take any dyeing which may be required, all substantially as 2
described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Thomas James Smith, have
hereunto set my hand and seal, this Twenty-second day of April,
One thousand eight hundred and seventy-three.