AN IMPROVED FABRIC, AND IMPROVEMENTS IN LOOMS FOR MANUFACTURING THE SAME
Year: 1863

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Pierre. Joyot, jeune, of Paris, France, Manufacturer,
for the Invention of "AN IMPROVED FABRIC, AND IMPROVEMENTS IN LOOMS
FOR MANUFACTURING THE SAME."
Sealed the 26th February 1864, and dated the 1st September 1863.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Pierre Joyot, jeune, at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 1st
September 1868.
J, PIERRE JOYOT, jeune, of Paris, France, Manufacturer, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention for "AN IMPROVED FABRIC, AND
IMPROVEMENTS IN LOOMS FOR MANUFACTURING THE SAME," to be as follows:-
These improvements relate to a double-faced fabric or tissue consisting of
a combination of plain or figured and velvet parts, the velvet presenting the
peculiarity of having a flushing or pile on both faces or sides of the tissue,
this pile or flushing being either cut or uncut, viz., forming either an ordinary
flushing or a plush or shag.
For manufacturing this tissue, any loom suitable for weaving either plain
or figured velvet or velvet, ribbon may be employed, the Invention consisting
in replacing the ordinary wires made use of for forming the pile by forked
ones, one leg or branch of which forks serving for the upper and the other
for the lower or back pile. By preference, however, a loom of the kind

page_text: called bar looms, suitable for manufacturing plain or figured velvet ribbon or
fabric, is made use of, in which the ordinary pile wires are replaced by the
above-mentioned ones, the mechanical parts being arranged in such manner
as to cause the said forks to enter the shed, and afterwards leave the fabric at
the required moment, and thus produce a pile or flushing as well on the top
as at the.back of the tissue; the pile or flushing may be further left uncut,
or be cut up by any suitable means. The remainder of the tissue may
be plain, figured, tweeled, striped, or of any other suitable pattern or
mounting.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Pierre Joyot, jeune, in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
1st March 1864.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, PIERRE
Joror, jeupe, of Paris, France, Manufacturer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the First day of September, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and sixty-three, in the twenty-sixth year of Her reign,
did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the said
Pierre Joyot, jeune, Her special licence that I, the said Pierre Joyot, jeune,
my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Pierre
Joyot, jeune, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time
agree with, and no others, from time to time and all times thereafter during
the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within the United Kingdom of Great-Britain and Ireland, the Channel
Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "AN IMPROVED FABRIC, AND IMPROVE-
MENTS IN LOOMS FOR MANUFACTURING THE SAME," upon the condition (amongst
others) that I, the said Pierre Joyot, jeune, my executors. or administrators,
by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and
seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention,
and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to
be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and
immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Pierre Jojot, jeune, do hereby declare the
nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:

page_text: These improvements relate to a double-faced fabric or tissue consisting of
a combination of plain or figured and of velvet parts, the velvet presenting
the peculiarity of having a flushing or pile on both faces or sides of the tissue,
this pile or flushing being either cut or uncut, viz., forming either an ordinary
flushing or a plush or shag.
The tissue is more particularly intended to serve for ribbon. For manu-
facturing the same, any loom suitable for weaving either plain or figured velvet
or velvet ribbon of whatever usual width judged proper may be employed, the
Invention consisting in replacing the ordinary wires made use of for forming
the pile by forked ones, one leg, branch, or prong of which forks serving for
the upper and the other for the lower or back pile. By preference, however,
a loom of the kind called bar looms for weaving velvet or other ribbon is made
use of, in which the ordinary pile wires are replaced by the above-mentioned
forked ones, and are moved entirely by the loom itself, without requiring the
aid of the weaver, the mechanical parts being arranged in such manner as to
cause the said forks to enter the shed, and afterwards leave the fabric at the
required moment, and thus produce a pile or flushing as well on the top as at
the back of the tissue, whilst the said pile or velvet may be either plain or
figured; the pile or flushing may be left uncut, or the same may be cut up
either by baving the free or further end of the fork prongs provided at the top
with a cutting part, or the pile of the tissue may be cut after the same is
woven by means of shears or any suitable shaving or shearing apparatus,
whilst the remainder or ground of the tissue may be woven plain, figured,
tweeled, striped, or according to any other suitable pattern or mounting.
In the annexed Drawings, Fig. 1 represents a side elevation and partly a
longitudinal sectional view of the principal parts of a bar loom for weaving
ribbon or velvet, which loom I provide with the necessary arrangements for
working automatically the wires by which the pile of the velvet is to be pro-
duced. Fig: 2 is a top view of those parts by which the required motions are
imparted to the said wires; these latter are shewn in longitudinal top and
side views respectively in the Figs. 3 & 4; Fig. 5 is a front view of part of
the batten. In these Figures several parts are represented as partly cut away,
and the same letters of reference relate to corresponding parts in all the
Figures.
As may be seen from Figs. 3 & 4, each wire a is soldered at right angles to
the end of an elastic arm b, by preference made of spring steel, the other enl
of which arm is soldered to a brass guide piece c, which is allowed to glide in
a suitable boss d, and thus cause both wires simultaneously to perform their
advancing and receding motions; the two wires thus connected form what I

page_text: call one fork or double wire. At each side of each piece of ribbon to be
woven in the loom one of the said bosses d is fixed to the top alternately of
one and of the other of two traversing sliding rules B & B', which rules glide
in small brackets fixed to the front part of the breast bar A. The said rules
are connected to a strap C, C, by means of pins J, J', passing through the
guides P, P', fixed to the strap C in such manner that by means of the said
pins the rules may be at once disconnected from or connected with the strap C,
which latter passes over the guide pulleys D, D', D³, and receives a proper
to-and-fro motion from an arrangement in the loom analogous to that of the
merrionets or vertical gliding rules actuating the headles and shuttles.
The arrangement and mode of working of a bar loom for weaving ribbon
being well known, it would be superfluous to enter into a description of the
same. A rule E extends over the entire length of the breast bar A, and is
suitably connected to the batten so as to follow the motions of this latter, and
at each alternate forward and backward motion of this latter also alternately
advance and recede. In advancing, the rule E pushes forward, viz., towards
the batten, the guide pieces.c, and consequently the wires a, whilst during the
receding motion of these latter the further or free end c¹ of their guide
pieces-c; these latter are situated just opposite, and allowed to pass through
corresponding openings provided for this purpose in the lower part of the
rule E, thus allowing the batten of driving back the wires into the
sheds
of the pile warp. The upper wire of each fork is intended to enter in the
upper shed of the pile warp and the lower wire in the lower shed, the headles
being actuated in such manner as to open simultaneously one pile warp shed
above and one underneath the ground warp; the wires of the two forks for
each piece of ribbon have their free ends situated in opposite directions to each
other, viz., both facing or directed towards the fabric.
open
As it is absolutely required that both wires of each fork at each time they
are to enter their respective sheds be situated and kept at the required dis-
tance apart while progressing in the sheds, the batten for this purpose is
provided besides with the ordinary weft shuttles for each pair of forks, viz.,
for each piece of fabric, either with one fixed false shuttle or with two
moveable ones. In case the fixed false shuttle be made use of (as shown in
top and in front views respectively in the Figs. 2 & 5,) this false shuttle R
forms an elongated wedge-shaped piece of wood fixed in the batten just above
the ordinary shuttles with its edge directed towards the wires. The forks in
being driven forward by the rule E, glide upon the two inclines of the wedge
or false shuttle R, thus become separated from each other to the required
extent, and during their traversing or side motion enter in the shed whilst

page_text: they glide over the inclines of the false shuttle R, and are thus prevented
for deviating from the right way. The mode of acting in this case is as
follows: Supposing the two forks to have their wires inserted in the fabric
in progress of weaving, the shed for the ground being now opened, one of the
shuttles throws in two, three, or more picks of the weft according to the
mounting, after which the wires of the fork first inserted in the fabric are
withdrawn by the effect of the loom, and this fork driven forward by the bar E
till the wires of this fork come to rest one of them on each incline of the
wedge or false shuttle R, and these wires thereby prevented from deviating
during their progress in the pile warp shed, in which latter they are inserted
by the effect of the rules B & B being moved sideways by the motion of the
loom; the batten now beats up the said wires in the shed, after which the
ground warp shed is opened, and two, three, or more picks of weft thrown in..
The wires of the other fork are now withdrawn from under the loops or pile,
and the same motions then take place for this fork as has been explained for
the preceding one, all the motions being obtained entirely automatically by the
effect of the loom.
Instead of using a fixed false shuttle, the batten may be provided for each
piece of ribbon or fabric to be woven simultaneously in the loom, with two
moveable false shuttles similar in every respect to the real or ordinary.
shuttles, with the exception, however, of carrying no weft thread; these false
shuttles in that case serve the same as when a fixed wedge-shaped false shuttle
is used for carrying the two wires of each fork during their progress in their
respective sheds. The said false shuttles pass simultaneously the upper one
above and the lower one underneath the ground warp, and thus prevent the
wires from deviating during their progress in their respective sheds, which is
of the utmost importance, particularly when weaving velvet or ribbons of great.
width, as long wires might otherwise give rise to accidents if not duly guided.
The false shuttles may have proper depressions for the wires to enter in. In
these various arrangements the motion and mode of working of the ground.
and pile warps, of the batten, shuttles, and other known parts of the bar
loom take place in the ordinary well-known manner, of which no special
description consequently is required. The alternate traversing motions of the
rules B & B, and the advancing and receeding motions of the rule E may be
obtained by any suitable mechanical means, receiving motion from the loom.
itself.
By providing the free end of the wires of each fork with a cutting edge,
the pile may become cut up at once by the said wires on withdrawing from.
the fabric; the cutting of the pile, however, may also be obtained after the

page_text: fabric is woven by shearing or shaving. Instead of using forked wires, single
wires provided with a cutting edge, and arranged and moved automatically by
the loom itself in a mode similar to that described in respect to the forked
wires, might be made use of for weaving one-faced or ordinary velvet or velvet
ribbon; I consider this also forming part of my Invention.
My system of forked wires worked automatically by the loom itself I
intend to apply also to the known system of weaving two tissues simul-
taneously the one above the other in the same loom; in that case the upper
wire of each fork is to serve for forming the pile on the top of the upper piece
of fabric, whereas the lower wire of the fork serves for forming the pile on the
lower surface of the lower fabric.
When employing wires provided with a cutting edge, it is instead of one
pair of wires two or more should always remain inserted before withdrawing
the others; for this purpose, instead of making use of one pair of forks for
cach piece of fabric in the loom, two or three pairs of forks might be used,
each of these forks fixed to their respective slides or traversing rules B, B¹,
receiving motion from the loom by straps C, or in any other suitable manner;
the number of pairs of forks in that case depends, of course, of the mounting
made use of, viz., whether more or less picks of weft are thrown in for each
wire.
It will be further understood that the Invention is applicable to the weaving
of ribbon, small ware, or coach lace, velvet or other similar fabrics to be woven
on bar looms, whether the said fabrics are to be made of silk or any other
suitable textile material.
Having thus described and particularly ascertained the nature of my
Invention, and the manner in which the same is or may be put into practical
effect, I wish it to be understood that I do not intend to restrict or restrain
myself to the precise details of the arrangements above described, as many
variations may be made therefrom without departing from the main principles
of the Invention; but what I consider to be novel and original, and therefore
claim as the Invention secured to me by the herein-before in part recited
Letters Patent, is,-
lly, the manufacture of a double-faced fabric or tissue presenting either a
cut or non cut pile velvet on part or on the entire of both surfaces of the
fabric or tissue.
2ly, applying for this purpose to looms for weaving ribbon or velvet, instead
of the ordinary wires hitherto made use of, double-pronged forks, one prong
or wire of which serves for forming the upper and the other prong for forming
the lower pile, the said prongs or wires being either provided with a cutting

page_text: edge or not, and the forks being moved entirely automatically by the loom
itself.
3ly, the above described general arrangement of the parts by which the
said forks are applied and caused to work in bar looms, as also the appli-
cation of false shuttles for guiding the wires during their progress in their
respective sheds.
4ly, weaving by means of the said double-pronged forks simultaneously in
the same loom two pieces of fabric, the ground-warps of which are situated
one above the other, the upper wire of each fork serving for forming the pile
of the piece of fabric uppermost, and the other wire of the same fork for
forming the pile of the piece of fabric underneath.
5ly, my system of working applied to the manufacture of ordinary velvet
by means of wires arranged and acting according to the principles above
described, but which wires are in that case not forked, but provided with a
cutting edge for forming the cut pile.
In witness whereof, I, the said Pierre Joyot, jeune, have hereunto set
my hand and-seal, this Twenty-seventh day of February, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-four.
Witness,
A. G. BRADE.
JOYOT, J. (L.S.)