IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF COVERED BUTTONS
Year: 1837

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, WILLIAM
ELLIOTT, of Birmingham, in the County of Warwick, Button Manufacturer,
send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date at Westminster,
the Fourteenth day of December, in the first year of Her reign, did, for
Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the said William
Elliott, Her especial licence, full power, sole privilege and authority, that I,
the said William Elliott, my exors, adñiors, and assigns, or such others as I,
the said William Elliott, my exors, admors, or assigns, should at any time
agree with, and no others, from time to time, and at all times during the
term of years therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise,
and vend, within England, Wales, and the Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed,
my Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF COVERED BUTTONS;"
in which said Letters Patent is contained a proviso, that I, the said William
Elliott, shall cause a particular description of the nature of my said Invention,
and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be inrolled in Her
said Majesty's High Court of Chancery within six calendar months next and
immediately after the date of the said in part recited Letters Patent, as in and
by the same, reference being thereunto had, will more fully and at large
appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, tho said
William Elliott, do hereby declare the nature of my said Invention, and the
manner in which the same is to be performed, are fully described and asccr-

page_text: tained in and by the following statement thereof, reference being had to the
Drawing hereunto annexed, and to the figures and letters marked thereon,
that is to say:-
My Invention relates to that description of covered buttons with flexible
shanks which are made by the aid of dies and pressure in contradistinction
to the covered buttons made by sewing the external woven fabric on to shapes
by the needle, my Invention having for its object to produce buttons of a more
elegant description and of a more finished character than have heretofore been
manufactured, by the application of certain elegant fabrics not hitherto em-
ployed in the making of such buttons: It may here be stated that there are
several modes of making such description of buttons, differing in some degree
from each other. The first is the plan known as Mr. Sanders' method, for
which he obtained Letters Patent, bearing date the Thirteenth day of October,
One thousand eight hundred and twenty-five, but which Letters Patent were
not sustained; secondly, there is a plan which has been much pursued, and
is well known as Mr. Aston's mode; and thirdly, a plan was invented by
Benjamin Aingworth, for which he obtained Letters Patent, bearing date the
Thirtieth day of August, One thousand eight hundred and thirty-two; and I
have mentioned these Inventions in order to state that I do not claim the
making of covered buttons with flexible shanks by the aid of dies and pressure,
but only improvements in their manufacture; and further, to state that my
Invention is more or less applicable to all such modes, and variations of such
modes of making covered buttons with flexible shanks; my Invention more
particularly relating to the covering of the face or front surface of the button,
without reference to the modes of making flexible shanks, and without re-
ference to the interior construction of the button, so long as the buttons are
made by the aid of dies, or such like tools and pressure, and not covered by
hand with the needle. According to the present modes of making such
covered buttons with flexible shanks, the woven fabric (of which the face or
front surface of the buttons has been covered,) has been such that a circular
disc or portion of the cloth might be cut at any part of the woven cloth or
fabric owing to the face or front surface of the woven fabric being the same
all over; hence, from whatever place a cover for a button might be cut, it would
be precisely like, or so nearly alike (as not to be readily discovered) all other
of the covers for buttons produced from any other parts of the same piece of
cloth or woven fabric (mostly of silk); and although fancy weavings of silk
and other materials have been used in covering such buttons, the fabrics for
such covers have been such that a circular disc or portion for covering might
be taken indifferently from any part of the piece of fabric, and from whatever

page_text: parts the covering of any two or more buttons might have been taken the
buttons would be precisely alike, or so nearly alike as to be sufficiently alike
as to be worn side by side without one appearing to have any irregularity of
surface not possessed by another; but till my Invention such covered buttons
with flexible shanks, made by pressure, had not been manufactured or made
with covers of the descriptions of the fabrics hereafter stated, having marked
and definite designs produced in the weaving of the fabric in the centre of
each button, such Invention requiring that the woven figured fabric should
be so cut into discs or circular portions, and the same so worked in dies or tools
as to bring the figure or design in a central position in respect to the face or
front of the button, and further in the act of making the buttons not injuriously
to press on the surface where the pattern, particularly in such cases where the
pattern or design stands much above the ground of woven fabric, as in the case
when the design or pattern is of weavings known as "terry velvet," that is,
where certain of the threads of the warp in weaving (to produce the pattern)
have wires laid in (when the warp is open), which wires are withdrawn, leaving
small loops which stand above the surface of the groundwork of the fabric,
a height depending on the thickness of the draw wires used, and it is well
known that according to this system of weaving the greatest possible variety
of figures or designs may be produced on different grounds of weaving; those
I prefer for the grounds on which the central designs are to be produced are
satin and tabby weavings; another sort of weaving where it is desirable to
avoid as much as possible to allow of pressure taking place at the portion of
the surface of the button where the central figure or design is situated is that
which is performed by what are called circular shuttles or brocading
shuttles, where in there is a thick thread laid into the shed as it is opened in
the working of the loom, as is well understood; the pattern or figure produced
depending on the order in which the warp threads are raised by the perforated
cards, as is well understood, such fabrics having a similar appearance to those
worked with needles; and I would here remark that I lay no claim to the
weaving of figured fabrics suitable for carrying out my Invention, nor do
I confine myself to the use of any particular mode or modes of weaving,
nor to the nature of the woven figure or design, nor to the ground or
fabrics in or on which the figures or designs are woven. My Invention,
in the first place, only relating to the application of certain fabrics
having a set figure or design for the centre of each button, made by the
process in weaving called terry weaving, or of laying in threads or any de-
scription of ground-by the process called brocade weaving; but although I do
not claim the same, I shall hereafter give such directions and advice to the

page_text: button maker as will enable him to give instructions to the weaver for such
fabrics with ornamental figures or devices produced therein or thereon as will
facilitate the work people in cutting out such fabric into coverings for buttons,
and readily enable them so to cut the same as to ensure the pattern or design
coming centrally on the face of a button; the foregoing fabrics and all other
fabrics where the central figure or design stands prominently above the ground
of the fabric required, the centre of the dies should be cut away in such
manner as not to press, or only very slightly to press, the raised centre or
design or ornamental figure of the button. There are, however, many figured
fabrics, wherein the woven design which is to constitute the central part of the
button when made according to other parts of my Invention, which will not
be injured by being submitted to a like degree of pressure (throughout the
surface) to which like descriptions of buttons when covered with a fabric,
without a central figure or design, have heretofore been subjected; though
I prefer that, whatever be the mode resorted to for making covered buttons
according to my Invention, when central designs or ornamental figures are
used, that the dies or tools should be so formed as to produce the requisite
pressure for combining the parts, by the button being supported only or
principally by the external edges or circumference of the button, because it
is desirable to avoid pressing the ornamental design or figure, of whatever
description of woven fabric the covering for the button may be made, and leave
the pressure as much as possible to take place on the ground of the woven
fabric which comes to the outer circumference of the button.
In addition to the modes of weaving figured fabrics above mentioned
suitable for carrying out the first parts of my Invention, there are many others,
as is well known, which are also suitable for the purpose of other of my
improvements in making such description of covered buttons, wherein the
figures or designs are made with warp threads flushing over different numbers
of weft threads, varying the pattern by the order in which the different warp
threads are laid on the surface of the fabric, as is well understood, and there
are other modes of weaving, wherein the figures or designs are produced with
the weft threads, and some where the figure depends jointly on the surface
produced by the warp and weft threads, all which are well understood in
weaving; but, as before stated, I do not claim any mode of weaving, and have
only called the attention of the button maker to these matters in order to his
fully understanding the nature of my Invention, and to state that my Inven-
tion is not confined to the nature of the fabric other than is hereafter and
horein-before explained, or the peculiar movements of the loom to obtain a
fabric having ornamental figures or devices suitable for being placed centrically

page_text: on the face or front surfaces of the covered buttons aforesaid. But whatever
be the nature of the fabric employed in carrying out the Invention, the main
object to be considered is that there shall be patterns consisting of ornamental
designs or figures at such distances apart as to be suitable for being cut into
circular portions, each for the covering of a button, and each having an
ornamental design or figure, and the whole so woven as to allow of the fabric
being cut into such portions or parts, and further to work up such portions or
parts that the ornamental figures or design may come truly in the centres, or
so nearly the centres of the buttons that the face or front surface of the
buttons will not have a distorted appearance in respect of the ornamental
figures or designs being materially out of the correct central positions.
This, the third part of my Invention, being the application of such fabrics
only wherein the ground or face of the ground thereof is produced by a
warp of soft or organzine silk, such as is used in weaving satin and the classes
of fabrics produced therefrom, which are well known, viz*. :—
Satin ground with ornamental central figure produced of any fibre.

page_text: the button; and it will be seen that in thus having the fabric woven in squares
great facility will be offered to the work people in cutting the same correctly
into circular portions, and will thus enable them readily by the ordinary tools,
heretoforo used, to cut up the whole surface of the cloth. There may, how-
ever, be other modes resorted to for ensuring correctness of the cutting of the
figured woven fabric into covers for buttons; amongst others, the apparatus
Figure 2, which consists of a cylindrical stamp c, capable of sliding along the
pointed rod d, by the use of which apparatus the workpeople will be enablod
with facility correctly to cut out pieces of figured woven fabric into circular
portions suitable for covering buttons, notwithstanding the woven fabric has not
been divided into squares. In using the apparatus or tool Figure 2, the point
of the rod d is to be placed carefully on the centre of the design or ornamental
figure, and then by pressing down the cylindrical stamp c, the edges of which
are to be first pressed on a flannel or other suitable surface having a marking
fluid, what I use is ground white lead mixed with paste and milk), a mark or
circle on the fabric will be produced, having the ornamental figure or design in
the centre; the fabric being thus marked will enable the same correctly to be
cut by the fly press or otherwise, as heretofore practised. And another mode
for correctly cutting out the fabric into circular portions is by having a sliding
pointing pin in the stamp or punch of the cutting dies of a fly press, as is
shown at Figure 3, e being the pointing pin, capable of sliding within the
cutting die or punch f; the figured fabric is stretched over the lower die 9 till
the centre of the ornamental figure or design is touched by the point of the
pointing piu e, or is coincident with it, the cut produced by the press will then
correctly cut the fabric into circles with the ornamental pattern in the centre
of each circle or cover for a button. In addition to the care requisite for
cutting figured fabrics correctly there is also care to be observed in applying
the covering to buttons in the process of making them in dies by pressure, in
order to ensure the ornamental design or figure being in the centre of the
button; and there may be various modes resorted to for obtaining the correct-
ness required; one plan for accomplishing the result is to have the shell of
metal or internal metal lining or frame of the button perforated in the centre,
as is shewn at Figure 4, by which means a short pin or point can be passed
through the centre of the circular portion of figured fabric, and then through
the shell h, by which means the fabric will be placed and held centrically in
respect to the shell h in the die, and also during the process of combining the
parts constituting the button, and the pin will be forced out by the act of
pressing the part together; by this means the correctness of cutting out of the
portions of the fabric is not so essential, as the perforating of the shell and

page_text: temporally attaching the shell and fabric together during the process of making
the button ensures correctness; or in place of this arrangement the dies may
be suitably formed for ensuring a central position for the figure or ornamental
design on the cover on the button, as is shewn at Figures 5, 6, 7, and 8.
Figure 5 and 6 being a section of a die; Figure 7 a plan of the die; and
Figure 8 is a circular disc of metal, having a hole of the size of a shell h, by
which means the shell may be dropped through and ensure of it central
placing on the fabric below; Figure 9 shews the die and parts of a button in
section; and it will be seen that there is a tube t, which forms the sides of the
die there in place of the die being made solid, as heretofore, in making this
description of flexible shanked buttons. By this arrangement, when the
button is formed in the die it can be removed from out thereof by simply with-
drawing the tube t; hence the necessity of having the button forced out by a
rod, as heretofore practised, is dispensed with, as it would be prejudicial in
cases where the patterns producing the ornamental centre are prominent, as
will readily be understood. The mode of making buttons with flexible shanks
according to the plan shewn in the Drawings being well understood, and as all
parts are shewn, and the process and apparatus differing only inasmuch as the
modes of obtaining a centering of the coverings of buttons and the mode of
constructing the dies with tubes such as t to remove the buttons, there will
require no further description; and I believe that the plan shewn is the best
for carrying out my Invention.
And another part of my Invention relates to the application of fabrics produced
by the process of weaving, wherein draw wires are employed in order to raise
loops of the warp threads in such manner as wholly to pervade the surface of the
fabric, or at intervals, according to design, to produce ornamental figured weav-
ings; such weavings, when silk is used, is called "terry velvet," and is well
understood; but I do not confine myself to such descriptions of fabrics as have
the face of silk, as woollen or as threads or yarns may be employed; and in this
part of my Invention I do not confine myself to the use of such patterns only
as are suited for the ornamental centres of the buttons, but to avail myself
of the use of fabrics of this description of woven surface, whether the same
be of one uniform weaving throughout the surface, or woven of such a pattern
as may be cut indifferently at any part of the fabric, for it should be under-
stood that my Invention relates to and has for its object to manufacture
buttons having more elegant coverings than those heretofore made.
And another part of my Invention relates to the application-of-figured-velvet
to the covering of such buttons as have flexible shanks, and are made by pres
sure in dies or such like tools, such velvet being woven suitably with patterns or

page_text: designs either as centres to the faces of buttons or woven with such descriptions
of figures as may be cut indifferently for making covers for the buttons; and
it is only desirable further to remark that in cases where the pattern or
ornamental design of weaving is such as to require care in centering, as is
explained in respect to other parts of my Invention, like means may be
resorted to for that purpose, but where the weaving of velvet or of terry
velvet are such as to allow of cutting indifferently in any part of the fabric,
then proper discs or circular portions are to be produced by a fly press or other
convenient mode, as heretofore practised and is well understood in preparing like
discs of other fabrics, and in making or combining the parts of a button, like 1
processes are to be pursued as herein described, or as have been heretofore
resorted to in making such descriptions of buttons by pressure, and the
marks or polish produced by the pressure are to be removed and the buttons
finished as heretofore.
Having thus described the nature of my Invention, and the best manner
I am acquainted with for performing the same, I would remark, that I do not
confine myself to the mode described for making the internal parts and backs
of the buttons, though I believe the mode described is the best adapted for
the purpose of my Invention, nor do I claim the mode described when
uncombined with a covering according to my Invention; but what I claim s
as my Invention is,--
First, the making of covered buttons with flexible shanks by the aid of dies
and pressure when the face or front of the button is made of any description of
fabric with raised surfaces producing a set pattern or ornamental figure by
terry weaving for the centre of the button.
Secondly, I claim the making of such covered buttons with flexible shanks
when covered with any fabric with ornamental set or central figures or patterns
produced thereon by a process called brocading or brocade weaving.
Thirdly, I claim the application of such figured woven fabrics to the covering
of buttons with flexible shanks made by pressure in dies as have the ground or g
the face of the ground woven with soft or organzine silk for the warp when
such fabrics have ornamental designs or figures for the centres of buttons, as
herein described; but I do not claim the application of any figured patterns of
woven fabrics where the portions constituting the covers of buttons may be cut
indiscriminately; this part of my Invention relating only to such patterns as g
require centering in order to bring the pattern or ornamental figure or design
in the centre on the face of the button.
Fourthly, in the manufacture of covered buttons with flexible shanks mado
in dies or such like tools with pressure,) I claim the application of such
"

page_text: description of fabrics as are produced by weaving by the aid of draw wires
which when using silk is called terry velvet (though woollen threads may be
employed), whether such fabrics be plain or ornamental.
Fifthly, my Invention relates to the application of figured velvet in the
manufacture of covered buttons with flexible shanks made by pressure in dies
whether the ornamental weaving be such as to be cut indifferently over the
whole surface or in set designs for the centres of buttons.
And lastly, in the manufacture of covered buttons with flexible shanks,
I claim the application of the modes and instruments described in Figures
2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, and 9, for ensuring correctness of cutting out of the
portions of fabrics in order to the pattern being in the centre thereof, and also
the modes ensuring a central placing and holding of the fabric in the die in
making the button, and also temporarily connecting the shell h, or internal
part with the portion of fabric, whatever be the description of fabric on which
a set pattern or ornamental figure or design may be produced.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Elliott, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Fourteenth day of June, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and thirty-eight