IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FRINGES
Year: 1854

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to John Livesey of New Lenton, in the County of
Nottingham, Lace Maker, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE
MANUFACTURE OF FRINGES."
Sealed the 22nd December 1854, and dated the 9th August 1854.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said John Livesey at the Office
of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 9th August
1854.
I, JOHN LIVESEY, of New Lenton, in. the County of Nottingham, Lace
Maker, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS
IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FRINGES" to be as follows:-
My Invention consists in a new arrangement of a frame or loom for making
bullion fringes, in which the warps to form the head of the fringe are opened
to the right hand and left hand, to allow the material forming the fringe (and
answering the purpose of weft) to be drawn through the opening of the warps
from the back to the front, by means of revolving hooks, caused for this purpose
to move through the opening of the warps.
The fringes are thus made at right angles to the beam, and the thin plates
of steel forming the sley or reed for beating up the work is worked parallel to
the beam; this will, in effect, be making the fringe edgewise to the workman,

page_text: and consequently long or short fringes can be made in the same frame without
diminishing or altering the number of fringes made; also, by means of the
working of the revolving hooks, herein-before mentioned, I am enabled to
make bullion fringes wholly by machinery, instead of by hand and machinery
combined, as such fringes have been heretofore made. If it is desired to make
a fringe on this frame other than bullion, the hooks are then made to act
without revolving, and knives are employed in connection with the hooks to
cut the fringe.
In case of desiring to put extra twist on the fringe, I cause the spools or
bobbins, on which the material for making the fringe is wound, to revolve, and
thus give twist to the material as it is taken up by the revolving hooks.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said John Livesey in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 9th
February 1855.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JOHN
LIVESEY, of New Lenton, in the County of Nottingham, Lace Maker, send
greeting.
. WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Ninth day of August, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-four, in the eighteenth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the
said John Livesey, Her special licence that I, the said John Livesey, my
executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said John
Livesey, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during
the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise,
and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the
Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
THE MANUFACTURE OF FRINGES," upon the condition (amongst others) that
I, the said John Livesey, by an instrument in writing under my hand
and seal, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said
Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause
the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar
months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.

page_text: NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said John Livesey, do hereby declare the
nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement, that is to say :-
My Invention consists in a new arrangement of a frame or loom principally
for making bullion fringes, in which the warps to form the head of the fringe
are opened to the right hand and left hand, to allow the material forming the
fringe, and answering the purpose of weft, to be drawn from the back to the
front, by means of revolving hooks through the opening of the warps. The
fringes are made at right angles to the beam, the reeds for beating up the work
being worked parallel to the beam; this will, in effect, be making the fringe
edgewise to the workman, and consequently a much larger number of fringes
can be made in a given width of frame than can be made by the frames now
used, the number being nearly independent of the length of the fringe, as long
or short fringes can be made in the same frame without diminishing or
altering the number of pieces made; also, by means of the arrangement of
revolving hooks, herein-before mentioned, I am enabled to make bullion fringes
wholly by machinery, instead of by hand and machinery combined, as hereto-
fore made. If it is desired to make a fringe other than bullion, the hooks are
made to act without revolving, and knives are employed in connection with the
books to cut the fringe. In case of desiring to put extra twist on the fringe,
I cause the bobbins, on which the material for making the fringe is wound, to
revolve, and thus give twist to the material as it is taken up by the revolving
hooks. The manner in which the same may be performed is explained in the
following description, and in the Drawings hereunto annexed :-
Figure 1 is a front elevation of so much of a machine as is necessary to
enable me to explain my Invention; Figure 2 is a section on lino x, x ;
Figure 3 is a section on line e, e; and Figure 4, a full size view in section of
the principal working parts of the frame. The remaining Figures are parts of
the frame shewn in detail. A, A, is the outside framework of the machinery.
a', a, are brackets carrying the bearings of the upright spindle C. a is a
bracket carrying a spindle on which the levers c, c, c³, c, work. a, a, are
cross bars fastened to the frame A for carrying the bar L and bearing fo.
Only one of these cross bars is seen, in consequence of only one end of the
frame being shewn. It will be easily understood without repeating this
remark that many parts shewn will require repitition in accordance with the
width and other circumstances of the different widths of frames required.
a', a, a, a, are brackets, fastened to the framework A, and having axles in

page_text: slots on which the different levers work. a, a, a, a, are cross bars for
carrying the bearings of the shaft B. B is the main driving shaft, carrying the
pinion b', and the cams 6, 63, 64, 6, of which 62 is for giving motion to the
reed R, and press up the work. is for giving rotary motion to the hooks fi,
6 for lowering and raising, and for carrying backward and forward the
hooks . The upright spindle C has a bevil wheel c', and 4 cam wheels
c, c', c, c, for forming the shed, by actuating the guide bars P, P. D is a
rocking shaft, moving on bearings d', and having arms d' and d fastened on
it. do are links connected to the arms and to the levers d. ds are rods
suspended from the arms d', and carrying the reeds R. G is a facing bar,
carrying the two sliding bars 9', g, which are attached by rods to the levers,
and also have springs at their opposite ends. The bar g¹ has straight pins g³,
which are for holding the fringes edgewise to the facing bar, and the bar g² has
hooked pins fastened to them. These pins (9) hold the fringes from being
pulled forward by the revolving hooks. F is a bar carrying revolving hooks f¹.
The caps hold the hooks f¹ in their places; the pullies fare for transmitting
motion to the hooks f'. f, f, are brackets (with axles) fastened to the bar F,
and to which the bar M is jointed. The bar F is fixed to the upright bolts h³
by the brackets f. f are levers, connected to the bar F by links f, which
levers work on axles and have trucks 10 on them. H are sliding bolts moving
in the bearings fo, f. h are brackets fastened to the frame A for attaching
springs h to the sliding bolts H. h are supports, attached to the bolts H,
having trucks h at top for steadying the bolts h³. K is a bar, carrying a
number of brackets with axles, on which pullies are placed. The bar K
is bolted to the arms, which move on axles, as shewn. are links for
connecting the bar K to the levers A, which levers work on axles fastened to
brackets a, and have trucks ³ on them, resting on the levers f. L is a
bar, carrying guide bar brackets. P, P, are a number of guide bars divided
into two sets for the ease of threading. They have slots cut in them, through
which the pins pass, and they move in four sets by means of the bell cranked
levers c, c, c, c, to which they are attached by rods, having springs at their
opposite ends, as is used in lace machinery; these levers are acted upon by
the cam wheels c², c³, c', c. Views of the cam wheels are given separately.
M are bar links carrying axles m³, on which double pullies m³, m³, revolve.
m' is a chain fastened at one point to the pullies m³, which it passes round,
and round the guide pulley mo, one end of which is fastened to the levers
P; the other end passes forward to one or more pullies acting along with
it. The levers P work on axles fastened to brackets a', and have trucks p
2+

page_text: fastened on them; m³ is a link, connecting the bar M with the axle m* on the
bracket m. n is an iron bar, and n² is a wooden bar. Strings or cords are
attached at one end to the bar n¹, and pass round the pullies f³, and aro
fastened at the other end to the bar n². n are chains, attached to the bars
n, n², and pass round the pullies m³, to which they are fastened at the points m³,
so that when motion is given to the pullies m³, the chain n³ will cause the
bars n', n³, to rise and fall, and thus give a revolving motion forward and back-
ward to the hooks f¹. nt, n', are stops placed to arrest the motion at top and
bottom of the bars n', n², so that there may be no irregularity in the length of
motion. O is a rocking shaft, moving in bearings and giving a forward and
backward motion to the bolts II by means of the links of, which are jointed to
the arms o; the lower arms o³ have trucks on them. S is a bar, fixed oppo-
site the hooks in their upper position, and by means of which the hooks are
liberated from the fringe. This bar is fastened to the bar G by brackets s'.
V shews au adaptation of the hooks (f', in Figuro 4) for making fringes when
it is not desired to have them twisted. v¹ is a top view of the hooks, which
are made with a split end, to enable the knives to enter the hooks V to cut
the fringe. The knives are fastened to the bar w³. The pullies f³ are con-
nected together in their motion by the connecting rod f", which ensures that
all the hooks should be in the position at any one time.
The foregoing description of the frame, along with the following description
of the working of the same, will enable any one conversant with this class of
machinery fully to understand the manner of carrying out this Invention.
The number of repititions of parts and other adaptations to suit the quality,
quantity, breadth, and class of fringe required to be made, will be understood
by any intelligent workman from the explanation already given. In making
bullion fringes I proceed as follows:-I will suppose the warp threads to be
open, part to the left and part to the right, by means of the guide bars through
which they are threaded. The hooks f', with their points downwards, must
then be caused to enter and pass through the opening to the back of the
warps; the hooks must then turn one quarter round and pass the fringe
threads, which are so set as that the curves of the hook will push the fringe
thread on one side, the same side as the opening in the hook is made, and
into which the fringe thread will then slip. The hooks now having hold of the
fringe thread, commenco to come forward, and must turn down again to secure
them from catching against the warp threads; they are caused to draw out
and rise upwards the length of the fringe required. The pullies, over which
the fringe thread is drawn, is caused to rise at the same time, for the purpose

page_text: of bringing the thread into a proper position previous to twisting; the reeds
are now caused to rise; to beat up the work and hold it fast during the time
the fringe is being twisted. The hooks fi must now be made to revolve; and
the length of motion given to the bars n², n², will determine the quantity of
twist given to the fringe. The relative sizes of pulley m² and pulley m³ will
determine the length of the motion of the bars n', n³; as soon as the twisting
is complete, a small projection on the cam causes the hooks to draw back a
little, thus giving an extra pull on the fringe to set as much as possible the
twist in the fringe. The hooks with their points downwards now rise and go
in a short distance over the bar S, for the purpose of unhooking the fringe.
The hooked pins g', which from their position have caught the fringe thread
at the back of the fringe, now draw out and then return to their position as
before under the fringe thread; the reed R and pullies k', along with the
hooks f; will then descend. The action of the bars n' and n², in consequence
of the weight of the bar n', 'will bring the cords into a proper position for
recommencing this operation. The fringe thread is taken from the bobbins Y,
and passed round a warp beam (in the same manner as is occasionally employed
in lace machinery), to ensure an equality of length in the fringe threads de-
livered. It will of course be understood that the cams must be so-cut as to
give the motions indicated, as necessary to the working parts of the machinery.
When it is desired to twist the-fringe threads, at the same time as the fringes
are being made, or to add to the amount of twist already in such fringe threads,
I take the thread from the top end of the bobbins, and use similar means for
twisting to that employed in spinning machinery, for the purpose of turning
the bobbins, and thus, whilst the manufacture of the fringe is proceeding, twist
is also given to the fringe threads.
.:
And having now described the nature of my said Invention, and in what
manner the same is to be performed, I declare that I claim,―
First, the combination of machinery described, whereby bullion fringes are
made, twisted, and finished at the same time, and also by means of which a
large number of bullion fringes can be made at once, the united depth of such
fringes being greater than the width of the machinery employed for making
the same.
Second, the combination of machinery described, whereby fringes other
than bullion are made and cut at the same time, in combination with the
advantage of the gaining of space in the machinery, as mentioned in the
first claim.'
Third, the arrangement described of making fringes, by which additional

page_text: twist may be put in the material to form the bullion part of the same during
the operation of making such fringes.
In witness whereof, I, the said John Livesey, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Eighth day of February, One thousand eight
hundred and fifty-five.
Witness,
ALEXANDER ALLIOTT,
The Park, Nottingham.
JOHN LIVESEY. (L.8.)