IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FRINGES AND PURL AND OTHER EDGINGS OR TRIMMINGS
Year: 1868

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Charles Grey Hill, of Alfred Street, Nottingham,
for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FRINGES
AND PURL AND OTHER EDGINGS OR TRIMMINGS."
Sealed the 2nd October 1868, and dated the 8th April 1868.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Charles Grey Hill at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
8th April 1868.
I, CHARLES GREY HILL, of Alfred Street, Nottingham, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE
MANUFACTURE OF FRINGES AND PURL AND OTHER EDGINGS OR TRIMMINGS," to
be as follows:-
This Invention has for its object improvements in the manufacture of
fringes and purl and other edgings or trimmings. In the manufacture
of fringes I employ a loose floss silk which I wind around suitable
instruments so that it makes a zig-zag band, and on to this band near
each of its edges I apply longitudinally a floss silk, or it may be a
thread or tape of other material, which is moistened and pressed upon

page_text: the band so as to cause it to adhere. The band is then divided down
the centre between the two longitudinal threads and so two fringes
are obtained; or but one thread or tape may be so applied, and the band
is then cut along the opposite edge and one fringe only is obtained.
The apparatus which I prefer consists of two spirals which are made to
revolve. They are placed parallel the one to the other, and at a distance
apart corresponding with the width of the band required. On these
the floss silk is wound, so that it passes across from side to side from
one spiral to the other. The revolution of the spirals carries the silk
forward to heated pressing rollers which run on the band and press
down upon it 'the longitudinal moistened floss silks or other threads
or tapes. These rollers may be grooved so as to produce a raised rib
upon the material. The band is afterwards cut either by the machine
or otherwise, and either in a straight or curved line, and so fringes of
floss silk are obtained. They have a very delicate and pleasing effect,
the individual fibres of the silk being only held together by the longi-
tudinal thread or tape. The same rollers which attach the longitudinal
threads or tapes may also attach a fabric to the fringes.
In making a purl edging or trimming I proceed in a similar manner,
except that the tapes which. are applied longitudinally cover the centre
part of the band, and the purl loops formed by the winding of the silk
ou the spirals or other instruments project beyond the edge of the tape
on either side; also I make edgings or trimmings in the nature of
double fringes by applying threads or tapes to the wound band and
cutting on either side of each thread or tape. In some cases in place
of using threads of floss silk I use threads of spun silk in producing
these fringes, edgings, and trimmings.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent
filed by the said Charles Grey Hill in the Great Seal Patent Office
on the 8th October 1868:
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, CHARLES
GREY HILL, of Alfred Street, Nottingham, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most. Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Eighth day of April, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-eight, in the thirty- a

page_text: first year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs, and successors,
give and grant unto me, the said Charles Grey Hill, Her special
licence that I, the said Charles Grey Hill, my executors, adminis-
trators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Charles Grey Hill,
my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter
during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make,
use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an
Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FRINGES AND PURL
AND OTHER EDGINGS OR TRIMMINGS," upon the condition (amongst others)
that I, the said Charles Grey Hill, my executors or administrators, by
an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands
and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the
said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed,
and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within
six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said
Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Charles Grey Hill, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the.
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement thereof, that is to say :-
This Invention has for its object improvements in the manufacture of
fringes and purl and other edgings or trimmings. In the manufacture
of fringes I employ a loose floss silk which I wind around suitable
instruments so that it makes a zig-zag band, and on to this band near
each of its edges I apply longitudinally a floss silk, or it may be a
thread or tape of other material, which is moistened and pressed upon.
the band so as to cause it to adhere. The band is then divided down-
the centre between the two longitudinal threads and so two fringes
are obtained; or but one thread or tape may be so applied that the
band is then cut along the opposite edge and one fringe only is
obtained.
Figure 1 of the annexed Drawings shows a fringe such as I make in
this manner.
The apparatus which I prefer consists of two spirals
which are made to revolve. They are placed parallel the one to the
other, and at a distance apart corresponding with the width of the..
band required. On these the floss silk is wound, so that it passes across

page_text: from side to side from one spiral to the other. The revolution of the
spirals carries the silk forward to lieated pressing rollers which run on
the band and press down upon it the longitudinal moistened floss silk
or other threads or tapes. These: rollers may be grooved or engraved
so as to produce a raised rib or pattern upon the material. The band is
afterwards cut either by the machine or otherwise, and either in a
straight or curved line and so fringes of floss silk are obtained. They
have a very delicate and pleasing effect, the individual fibres of the silk
being only held together by the longitudinal thread or tape.
Figure 2 of the Drawings is a plan of the machine above referred to
a is the main driving axis, which by a train of wheels a', a², «³, and at
drives a hollow axis b carried in a bearing c; 6' are arms on the axis b,
and they carry the floss silk bobbins and also guides through which
the silk passes from the bobbins, as is shown. Through the hollow
axis 6 two small axes d, d, pass; they are driven from the wheel a³, on
the axis of which is a bevilled pinion driving a similar pinion on the
shaft e, and this by bevilled gear, as is shown, drives the axes d, d;
d', d', are spirals of wire soldered on to the ends of the axes d. As will
be seen the spirals are double. It will be observed that as the bobbins
are carried round the spirals they lay the silk upon them, each coil
of the spiral receiving its loop of silk, and the silk becomes distended
between the spirals of the two axes d, as the Drawing represents, the
rotation of the spirals carrying the loops forward at the same speed that
they are laid on. A standard at the back of the machine carries the
axes d, d, and by the side of each of them is a guide table d² along
which a thread or tape e¹ of floss silk or other material is led from a reel
to which a slight friction is applied to keep the thread or tape distended.
As these threads or tapes e¹ come forward they travel over the face of
a pad moistened by preference with water in which gelatine is dissolved;
this pad is not shown in the Drawings. After being thus moistened the
threads or tapes e¹ pass through guide mouths d, which take them
into the centre of the coil made by the silk threads hanging upon the
spirals d. As the threads get beyond the spirals they are pressed all
together by the two pairs of rollers f, f, one roller in each pair is over
and the other under the threads.
A front view of the rollers and some other of the parts is shown at
Figure 3. In Figure 2 the upper roller is removed. These rollers have
toothed flanges upon them, as is shewn, the teeth of which enter

page_text: between the transverse threads, and so as the rollers revolve carry them
forward and hold them properly spaced to receive the pressure. The
rollers f, f, are driven from a wheel f¹ on the axis of the lower roller
actuated by a driving train f², f³, f, f, fe, & f, which latter wheel
gears with the wheel a'; f, f, are the bearings of the rollers f, they
are fixed on a suitable standard, and are heated by gas jets thrown
upon them.
As the moist threads e¹ pass between the heated rollers,
the whole of the threads become firmly cemented together into a fabric
which is wound up as it travels out of the machine and is afterwards
cut into two down the middle; g, g, are stems fixed to the standards
which carry the bearings of the axes f and entering the ends of the
spirals d to steady them as they revolve.
The same rollers which attach the longitudinal threads or tapes may
also attach a fabric to the fringes, as is shown at Figure 4, the top
rollers being made much wider on the outer sides and overlapping the
spirals. The fabric to be attached is led half around the top roller
and comes down with it upon the silk threads.
It is obvious that the machine may be made single-acting, a thread
or tape (with or without a fabric) being applied on one side only, and
the silk wound on the spirals being divided on the opposite side.
I make edgings or trimmings in the nature of double fringes by
applying threads or tapes to the wound band at a distance from its
edges and cutting on either side of each thread or tape, as is shown
at Figure 5. In some cases in place of using threads of floss silk I use
threads of spun silk in producing these fringes, edgings, and trimmings.
In making a purl edging or trimming I proceed in a similar manner,
except that the spirals dare usually placed much closer together, and
the tapes which are applied longitudinally cover the centre part of the
band. The purl loops formed by the winding of the silk on the spirals
or other instruments project beyond the edge of the tape on either side,
as is seen at Figure 6.
I would here remark that I lay no claim to the apparatus above
described, similar apparatus having before been used for other purposes;
but what I claim is, the manufacture of fringes of floss or spun silk in
the manner above described.
I also claim the manufacture of double fringe-like trimmings of floss
or spun silk, in the manner above described.

page_text: I also claim the manufacture of purl edgings or trimmings of floss or
spun silk, in the manner above described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Charles Grey Hill, have here-
unto set my hand and seal, this Seventh day of October,
in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-
eight.
C. G. HILL. (L.S.)