IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES AND IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS EMPLOYED THEREIN
Year: 1869

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Edward Thomas Hughes, of the Firm of Hughes
and Son, Patent Agents, 123, Chancery Lane, London, for the Inven-
tion of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES AND IN
MACHINERY OR APPARATUS EMPLOYED THEREIN."-A communication from
abroad by Nathan Adolphus Baldwin, of Milford, New Haven,
United States of America.
Sealed the 15th February 1870, and dated the 18th August 1869.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Edward Thomas Hughes
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Pétition,
on the 18th August 1869.
I, EDWARD THOMAS HUGHES, of the Firm of Hughes and Son, Patent
5 Agents, 123, Chancery Lane, London, do hereby declare the nature of
the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND
SHOES AND IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS EMPLOYED THEREIN," (a communi-
cation to me from abroad by Nathan Adolphus Baldwin, of Milford,
New Haven, United States of America, to be as follows:-

page_text: This Invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of boots
and shoes of the class known as "sewed work) either "welted" or
"turned," and consists,-
First. In an improvement in the last upon which the boot or shoe
is sewed.
Second. In the peculiar formation of the sole preparatory to sewing.
Third. In a machine for sewing the welt to the shoe or for making
turned work.
Fourth. In a machine for stitching the sole to the welt.
I wish to be understood hereafter by the expression boot or shoe to
include all classes of coverings for the feet in which the sole is secured to
the shoe by stitches. Lasts of common construction have been formed
so that the upper or body of the shoe projects beyond the edge of the
sole, but more particularly does this occur in that part of the shoe termed
the shank, where the shape is nearly as seen in Figure 6, and so far
does the body of the shoe project beyond the sole that it is difficult
to bring the needle of a sewing machine to the proper position for
piercing the welt and sole, and further the shape of the last is such
(presenting no edge) that the sole itself must necessarily be used as a
guide.
The object of this part of the Invention is to adapt the last to the
sewing of the sole or welt or both with a straight needle and to form
a guide by the edge of the last, and consists in shaping the last from the
bottom up, so that the sides will be parallel or converging towards the top
of the last, forming nearly a right angle or less at the sole of the last.
I will proceed to describe the first part of the Invention as illustrated
in Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6. A is the last, the shape of the bottom
being nearly or exactly that of a common last. From the bottom up
the last is narrower than at the bottom, as seen in Figures 3, 4, and 5,
Figure 4 being at the shank where the two sides are made parallel
or nearly so and forming a right angle or nearly so at the edge, that
a straight needle, as denoted at a, Figure 4, can pass through nearly at
the edge of the last. This form of last necessitates a proportionately
greater depth in order that the last may measure the same at different
points and fill the shoe or foot, that is to say, so much as is reduced
in width and length must be made up in depth.
From this description it will be seen that the edge at the bottom or

page_text: sole of the last forms a distinctly defined line, so that the presser foot
or guide may operate directly thereon to govern the path of the needle.
This completes the first part of the Invention.
The second part, which relates to improvement in the sole, is illus-
trated in Figures 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, and 13, and consists in the peculiar
formation and preparation of the sole, so that the stitching may be done
by a straight needle or awl, whereby in that class of work termed
"turned shoes" the upper leather may be attached to the sole by a
sewing machine, and in that class of work termed "welted" the welt
and upper may be first secured to the insole and the outsole stitched
to the welt by a sewing machine, thus dispensing with hand sewing,
or performing the sewing done by hand with greater facility than has
heretofore been done. The sole A is cut of the required form from
ordinary sole leather in the usual manner, then upon one side of the
sole I cut away or otherwise form the leather so as to reduce the
edge and also form a rib a around the sole near the edge, as seen in
Figures 7 and 8, then while the leather is yet in a wet or flexible
state turn up the edge around the sole, as seen at d, Figure 9. I thus
turn up the edge in dies prepared for the purpose or by other con-
venient device, and when dry and set in this form the sole is ready
for market as an article of manufacture.
Its use, which will fully explain the object of the Invention, is
illustrated in Figures 10, 11, 12, and 13. First as in Figure 10 for
"turned work." In this case the sole A is placed upon the last in the
usual manner, the last being formed so as not to interfere with the
turned up edge, d, and the upper leather B placed upon the last and
drawn down to the proper form and secured, occasionally by nails to
the sole, so that the upper leather lies closely against the turned up
edge d and the rib a, as seen in Figure 10. In this position the upper
is secured to the sole, the stitching being done by the use of a straight
awl for by a needle g operated by a sewing machine. Thus secured
the shoe is removed from the last and the shoe turned and finished in
the usual manner. If for "welted" work proceed as before described for
"turned" work placing the welt i as seen in Figure 11, and secure the
welt and upper together to the sole as before described and as shown in
Figure 11; in this case the sole A becomes the insole. When the welt
has been secured turn down the welt and prepare the
receive the outsole in the usual manner, then place thereon the outsole
outer surface to

page_text: C and tack it as for common hand sewing. It will be observed that
the edge of the insole is yet turned up, and by being so turned the
welt and outsole project so far beyond the upper leather that a needle
or straight awl h will freely pass down without interference with the
upper leather, as seen in Figure 12, enabling me to employ a sewing
machine to stitch the sole to the welt in similar manner as by common
hand stitching, or to facilitate hand stitching by the use of a straight awl.
When the sole is secured remove the last, or if preferred the last may be
removed before the stitching is done as its presence is not absolutely
necessary, and insert a last upon which the edge will be turned down as
seen in Figure 13, after which proceed to the finishing of the boot in the
usual manner. This completes the second part of the Invention.
I will now proceed to a description of the machine for sewing the
upper to the sole and welt or to the insole, as the case may be, and as
illustrated in Figures 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 5, and 20. A is the bed
plate, from which rise standards B supporting in bearings B¹ the driving
shaft B, to which power is applied in any convenient manner. c is the
needle bar carrying the needle c and supported on a slide c, to which
a reciprocating movement is imparted by the eccentric c. For con
venience the path of the needle is at an angle from the bed plate. a is
the looper attached to a shaft 6 parallel to the bed of the machine
or at an angle to the needle c, as seen in Figure 14, and is operated by
the vibration of a lever D from a cam D', which gives to the looper a
vibratory movement as seen in Figure 17, so as to carry the looper above
and below the needle, crossing the path of the needle in its movement
as seen in Figure 17. The axis of the motion of the looper being
inclined to the needle it will be observed given to the looper a peculiar
movement relative to the needle, that is to say, in passing up over
the needle it shortens the thread between the needle and looper, so that
as the looper drops there is no slack thread, hence the looper serves
the double purpose of looper and take-up. The needle is of the kind
known as hooked or barbed, and catches the thread when it is passed
over the needle by the looper in similar manner as in other chain stitch
machines. The thread is run from a spool E through the column E¹
where it is heated to soften and render it more flexible by applying
the heat to the said column in any convenient manner; then the thread
is run through the eye of the looper as denoted in Figures 14 and 15,
the proper tension being applied in its course. F is a carriage supported

page_text: in a frame F, and carries a vertical spindle F. The frame F is attached
to a column F so as to swing transversely thereon, while the carriage F
will move longitudinally in the said frame, thus enabling a universal
movement to be given to the spindle F, and the said spindle passing
through the bars of the frame F is firmly fixed to a cross head f, to
which a former e is attached by connecting / (see Figures 14 and 16)
by the turning of which former the spindle will be turned corre-
spondingly. The former is of the shape of the sole of the shoe to be
stitched and is constructed with teeth upon its edge as seen in Figure 16
into which a pinion n fixed to a wheel G works, so that by the turning
of the said wheel G the former is turned or worked along by the
pinion n, the former being held in connection with the pinion by an
arm m extending over and hooking into a groove or flange in the said
former, as seen in Figure 16. The end of the said arm which hooks
on to the former is necessarily of the peculiar form denoted in Figure 5*,
in order that the form may turn properly at the toe, that is, so that
the edge of the hook will strike the flange or sides of the grooves in
the former a little in advance of the turn of the toe. Upon the upper
end of the spindle F the last with the shoe or boot thereon is arranged.
as at H, Figures 14 and 15, corresponding in position to the former e
below, and so as to present the shoe to the needle in proper position
for stitching, an intermittent motion being given to the wheel G in
order to feed the shoe for each successive stitch, and such movement is
given by a cam I through a lever I and a connecting rod Is operating
another lever I attached to the centre or shaft of the wheel G, and
upon which a pawl or clamp. i is arranged, so that the movement of
the lever I back will take back the pawl and its forward movement will
carry with it the wheel G,. the extent of such movement being regulated
by the set screw. I' in Figure 14, and the wheel G is held to prevent
its return by a set pawl k. In order to raise and lower the shoe so as
to present it in proper position to be stitched in passing the curves of
the soles the spindle F is supported by a spring which forces it upward,
so as to always present the shoe for the passage of the needle properly
through, the sole bearing against the guide L arranged so as to be
adjusted vertically to guide the shoe as before described.
For convenience I show sections of the sole in Figures 19 and 20.
The sole is cut into proper form, and, as before described, a ledge 1
formed entirely around near its edge, so that the upper 2 being placed
upon the outer side of this flange, as seen at the right of Figure 20, or

page_text: with the upper 2 and welt 3, as at the left, so that the needle may enter
upon the inside of the projecting ledge and pass through the said ledge
and upper and welt, if used, as seen at the left in Figure 20. The
guide L rests in the angle of the sole and ledge, as seen in Figure 20;
therefore as the sole passed under the said guide it depresses the shoe to
force it down as the elevated portions advance toward the needle, and
the spring on the spindle forces up the shoe as the depressed portions of
the sole advance toward the needle, so that the shoe is always presented
in proper position for the passing of the needle through the sole. N is
the welt guide arranged so as to present the welt S in proper position to
be stitched to the sole upon the upper; this of course is not needed
when no welt is used, as for "turned" work. As a support against the
shoe while the needle is passing through I arrange an arm P, which
bears against the edge and prevents the yielding of the shoe, so that the
needle easily passes herethrough. When the shoe has been presented
in proper position for the needle to pass through and form the stitch it
is important that the shoe be firmly held in that position, therefore it is
not expedient to depend entirely upon the upward pressure of the spring
on the spindle, as that might be liable to yield. I therefore arrange
upon one of the bars of the frame F an incline T (may be one or two, as
seen in Figure 14), and over this a sliding bar T¹ with corresponding
inclinations, the said bar brought around the spindle so as to move
freely back and forth, and on the spindle a collar T is formed, so that
when the bar T' is drawn forward the inclines will force it upward until
the bar rests against the collar T, and it is so forced forward by a
spring T, and at each movement or feed the bar is withdrawn by the
action of a cam T through a lever denoted in broken lines, Figure 14,
and so soon as the feed has taken place the bar springs forward, wedging
as it were the shoe up to its proper position, its forward movement being
limited only by raising or lowering the spindle to accommodate the
curvature of the sole.
The waxed thread sometimes adheres to the needle, so that after the
loop is formed the needle cannot free itself from the loop. To insure
'such operation I arrange a vertical shaft t, to the lower end of which is
a finger or hook r, to which a vibrating motion is given by the lever R
through the arm S to turn the finger as from the position in Figure 18
to that in red in the same Figure, in which movement the finger will
turn the loop from the needle; but the needle being inclined it is
necessary that a corresponding downward movement be given to the

page_text: hook r, so as to lift the thread from the hook of the needle and carry it
down. For this purpose I arrange a cam u so that as the shaft T
revolves a projection from the said shaft, as seen in Figure 14, will work
upon the face of the said cam and depress the hook so as to take the
loop and carry it from the needle. As an additional support or guide I
arrange an adjustable presser foot U, see Figure 14, set so as to bear
upon the sole and aid the guide L in governing or controlling the move-
ment of the shoe. The column E¹ is made to open by the removal of
one side or in any other convenient manner for the introduction of the
thread and proper device for heating the same.
I will now proceed to describe the machine for stitching the sole to
the welt, as illustrated in Figures 21 to 32 inclusive. The general
appearance of the machine and many parts of it are the same as the
machine which I have here last described. A is the bed plate, from
which rise standards B supporting in bearings B₁ the driving shaft B³, to
which power is applied in any convenient manner; C is the needle bar
carrying the needle c, and supported on a slide C³, to which a recipro-
cating movement is imparted by the eccentric C³..
The needle is shown enlarged in Figures 27, 28, and 29, which is of a
peculiar form, the object being to construct the needle so that it will
pass freely and easily through the leather upon two opposite sides. The
needle is grooved so that in section it will be as seen in Figure 28, one
concave side being shown in Figure 27 with the eye near the point.
Instead of being brought to a sharp point as common needles, I
make a flat point, as seen in Figure 29, this being a view of the
needle turned one-quarter around from Figure 27; this form cuts its
way through the leather making a perforation, which will close when
the needle returns, whereby the thread is held tightly in the leather.
b is the looper fixed to a vertical spindle 6', and attached to a lever D,
which operated by a cam D' depresses the looper at the required moment,
and partial rotation is thereby given the looper by the cam E
through the lever E' and a connecting rod E' which is attached to the
spindle 6', as seen in Figures 21 and 23. The operation of the looper
is such that the needle being threaded and passed through the
looper will catch the thread above the eye of the needle, holding and
carrying it from the needle, so that at the next passage of the needle
through the leather it will pass through the loop first made, and held by
the looper b. F is a guide made adjustable vertically so as to bear upon

page_text: the upper leather near the edge of the last and at the welt, as seen in
Figure 31; F is an adjustable guide hooked at its end so as to run in
the groove of the sole, as seen in Figure 31. The needle in its descent
passes over the end of the guide F" through the sole and welt, and
through a slot formed in the end of the guide F2, as denoted in
Figure 31. The guide F is held up by a spring f, so as to accommodate
itself to the slight irregularities which may exist in the formation of the
groove insole, or to accommodate itself relatively to the guide F, which
is set rigidly. The thread which the needle carries is passed over a
tension apparatus G, thence through a tube G¹ to the needle. Heat is
applied in any. convenient manner to the tube G to soften the waxed
thread and bring it to the required state for sewing. To feed the work
a vibrating motion is given to the needle bar by the cam H operating a
sliding bar H', as more clearly shown in Figure 30 inverted, that is to
say, looking up from below the machine; the needle bar works through
a guide C³, the space in the said guide being broader than the needle bar
to allow the vibration there of the bar being pivoted to the slide C¹ at 2;
the bar H' extends into the guide C³ beside the needle bar, and its end
is inclined so that as it is forced through the guide it will strike an
adjusting screw C. The inclined end passing over the screw forces the
bar H¹ and the needle bar C to one side, as denoted in broken lines, and
on the return of the bar H' a spring Cs throws back the needle bar.
The operation of the bar H¹ occurs at the dead point while the needle is
through the sole. To aid the needle both in the feed as well as in
the perforation of the leather I arrange an auxiliary awl d in such
position that when the needle has passed through the leather to its
fullest extent, the said awl being attached to the needle bar will enter
the leather and partially perforate it, and the awl is set at the distance
(in advance of the needle) required for the length of the stitch, so that as
the needle comes down for the next stitch it will strike into the previous
partial perforation of the awl; this operation facilitates or lessens the
force required to drive the needle through the leather, and at the same
time relieves the needle to a great extent in the operation of feeding, as
the feed occurs while the awl is in the leather; the awl is made
adjustable by set screws 3, 3, 3, as seen in Figure 26, so as to be
arranged at the required distance from the needle. I is the last upon
which the boot or shoe is prepared for soling it is fixed to a spindle I'
arranged in the end of an arm I', and so as to turn freely therein, and
with a spring arranged on the spindle I' so as to bear the last or shoe

page_text: against the guides, as seen in Figure 21. To accommodate the last to the
required position the arm I² is hung in a universal joint to a vertical
swinging bar K, and is supported by a segment L extending from the
arm I down and passing through a slot in the bar K. The vertical move-
ment of the arm I' is necessary to turn the last around the heel and toe,
as also to adapt it to the irregular shape of the edge, but at each stitch
it is advisable that the arm I' be locked to prevent the displacement of
the shoe by the operation of the needle. For this purpose I arrange a
sliding key I, see Figure 21, operated by a cam L² to a lever L³ and a
bar L, which connects to the said key, so that as soon as the feed has
taken place the said bar L will be locked by the said key L, at that
time being thrown forward so as to wedge the bar L by the action of a
spring, see Figure 23, and then immediately before the feed takes place
the cam L operates to withdraw the key L'; this provides only for the
vertical movement of the arm Is, trusting to the transverse movement of
the spindle I' for the irregular shape of the bottom of the sole. This
transverse movement may however be given by allowing the segment L
a little play transversly; this is done by placing a plate L' upon the
swinging bar K over the slot through which the segment L moves, and
arranging this plate so that it may slide vertically as from the position
in Figure 21 to Figure 22, and vice versa. The corresponding slot
formed in the plate when in the position seen in Figure 22 being of the
same width as the segment it will prevent any transverse movement;
but if the the plate be dropped to the position seen in Figure 21, and the
slot to that position made wider, as shown, then the bar segment is free
for transverse movement. The plate L is arranged so as to be fixed in
either position. At the same time that the arm I' is locked it is also
necessary to lock the spindle I¹ to prevent it turning; I therefore arrange
upon the spindle a flanged wheel N, see Figs. 24, 25, and 25, keyed
firmly thereto, then within the flange I arrange a divided ring u, and
along the side of of the arm I* I arrange a sliding bar N¹ entering the
divided side of the ring N, as seen in Figure 25, and the end of the sliding
bar N¹ is made wedge-shaped, so that it is forced in the ring u is spread
and clamps on the flange of the wheel N and prevents its turning; but
when the bar is withdrawn the wheel N will turn freely, and the sliding
bar N is operated at the proper time by the lever N hung on the
swinging bar K, and so as to be operated by the key L', that is, when
the key L' throws forward to lock the segment L it will at the same
time throw forward the sliding bar N₁ to clamp the spindle. The boot

page_text: or shoe after the welt has been sewed thereon, as before described, and
the outer sole temporally attached thereto in any convenient manner, is
with its last placed in the machine, as seen in Figures 21 and 23, and
on the guides F and F, as seen in Figure 31; power being then
applied to the machine the welt and the sole will be stitched together.
This machine may be adapted to the stitching of the welt to the upper
and insole by placing in the arm I³, as seen in Figure 32, an arm P, to
which the spindle I' is placed so as to set the shoe sole up, and thus
adapt this machine to the sewing of the two kinds of work. I however
prefer the two machines I have described. The tension G is formed
from a single sound plate of metal hung so as to revolve on a pivot g,
and is divided radially, as seen in Figure 21, and alternate segments
turned in either direction, as seen in Figure 21, so that the thread is
passed between the segments and interlaced therein, and forms a tension
upon the thread; the said tension is fixed to the slide C¹ so as to move
with it and always maintain the same relative position to the needle.
The tension is regulated by pressing the spring on the pivot more or less
hard against the plate G, as seen in Figure 21*.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Edward Thomas Hughes in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 18th February 1870.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, EDWARD
THOMAS HUGHES, of the Firm of Hughes and Son, Patent Agents, 123,
Chancery Lane, London, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Eighteenth day of August, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-nine, in the thirty-third
year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and
grant unto me, the said Edward Thomas Hughes, Her special licence
that I, the said Edward Thomas Hughes, my executors, administrators,
and assigns, or such others as I, the said Edward Thomas Hughes, my
executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with,
and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the
term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise,
and vend, within. the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland,

page_text: the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS
IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES AND IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS
EMPLOYED THEREIN," a communication to me from abroad by Nathan
Adolphus Baldwin, of Milford, New Haven, United States of America,
upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said Edward Thomas
Hughes, my executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing
under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should particu-
larly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in
what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be
filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next
and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Edward Thomas Hughes, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same
is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained, in and
by the following statement and accompanying five Sheets of Drawings
(that is to say) :-
:-
This Invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of boots
and shoes of the class known as "sewed work," either welted or "turned,"
and consists,
First. In an improvement in the last upon which the boot or shoe is
sewed.
Second. In the peculiar formation of the sole. preparatory to sewing.
Third. In a machine for sewing the welt to the shoe or for making
turned work.
Fourth. In a machine for stitching the sole to the welt.
I wish it to be understood hereafter by the expression boot or shoe to
include all classes of coverings for the feet in which the sole is secured
to the shoe by stitches. Lasts of common construction have been formed
so that the upper or body of the shoe projects beyond the edge of the
sole, but more particularly does this occur in that part of the shoe
termed the shank, where the shape is nearly as seen in Fig. 6, and so
far does the body of the shoe project beyond the sole that it is difficult to
bring the needle of a sewing machine to the proper position for piercing
the welt and sole, and further the shape of the last is such (presenting
no edge) that the sole itself must necessarily be used as a guide.
The object of this part of the Invention is to adapt the last to the
sewing of the sole or welt or both with a straight needle and to form a

page_text: guide by the edge of the last, and consists in shaping the last from the
bottom up so that the sides will be parallel or converging towards the
top of the last forming nearly a right angle or less at the sole of the
last.
I will proceed to describe the first part of the Invention as illustrated
in Figs. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6. A is the last, the shape of the bottom being
nearly or exactly that of a common last. From the bottom up the
last is narrower than at the bottom, as seen in Figs. 3, 4, and 5; Fig. 4
being at the shank where the two sides are made parallel or nearly so,
and forming a right angle or nearly so at the edge. Thus a straight
needle, as denoted at a, Fig. 4, can pass through nearly at the edge of the
last. This form of last necessitates a proportionately greater depth in
order that the last may measure the same at different points, and fill the
shoo or boot, that is to say, so much as is reduced in width and length
must be made up in depth."
From this description it will be seen that the edge at the bottom or
sole of the last forms a distinctly defined line, so that the presser foot
or guide may operate directly thereon to govern the path of the needle.
This completes the first part of the Invention.
The second part which relates to improvements in the sole is illustrated
in Figs. 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, and 13, and consists in the peculiar formation
and preparation of the sole, so that the stitching may be done by a
straight needle or awl, whereby in that class of work termed "turned
shoes" the upper leather may be attached to the sole by a sewing
machine, and in that class of work termed welted the welt and upper
may be first secured to the insole and the outsole stitched to the welt
by a sewing machine, thus dispensing with hand sewing or performing
the sewing done by hand with greater facility than has heretofore been
done. The sole A is cut of the required form from ordinary sole leather
in the usual manner, then upon one side of the sole I cut away or other-
wise form the leather so as to reduce the edge and also form a rib a
around the sole near the edge as seen in Figs. 7 and 8, then while the
leather is yet in a wet or flexible state turn up the edge around the
sole, as seen at d, Fig. 9. I thus turn up the edge in dies prepared for
the purpose or by other convenient device, and when dry and set in
this form the sole is ready for market as an article of manufacture.
Its use which will fully explain the object of the Invention is illustrated
in Figs. 10, 11, 12, and 13: First, as in Fig. 10, for turned work. In

page_text: this case the sole A is placed upon the last in the usual manner, the
last being formed so as not to interfere with the turned up edge d, and
the upper leather B placed upon the last and drawn down to the
proper form and secured occasionally by nails to the sole so that the
upper leather lies closely against the turned up edge d and the rib a, as
seen in Fig. 10. In this position the upper is secured to the sole, the
stitching being done by the use of a straight awl f, or by a needle g
operated by a sewing machine. Thus secured the shoe is removed from
the last and turned and finished in the usual manner. If for welted
work proceed as before described for turned work placing the welt i as
seen in Fig. 11 and secure the welt and upper together to the sole, as
before described and as shown in Fig. 11. In this case the sole A
becomes the insole. When the welt has been secured turn down the
welt and prepare the outer surface to receive the outsole in the usual
manner, then place thereon the outsole C and tack it as for the common
hand sewing. It will be observed that the edge of the said insole is yet
turned up, and by being so turned the welt and outsole project so far
beyond the upper leather that a needle or straight awl h will freely pass
down without interference with the upper leather as seen in Fig. 12,
which enables a sewing machine to be employed to stitch the sole to the
welt in similar manner as by common hand stitching or to facilitate
hand stitching by the use of a straight awl. When the sole is secured
remove the last, or if preferred the last may be removed before the
stitching is done as its presence is not absolutely necessary and insert a
last upon which the edge will be turned down as seen in Fig. 13, after
which proceed to the finishing of the boot in the usual manner. This
completes the second part of the Invention.
I will now proceed to a description of the machine for sewing the
upper to the sole and welt, or to the insole as the case may be, and as
illustrated in Figs. 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 5*, and 20. A is the bed plate
from which rise standards B, supporting in bearings B¹ the driving
shaft B', to which power is applied in any convenient manner; C is the
needle bar carrying the needle c, and supported on a slide C¹ to which
a reciprocating movement is imparted by the excentric C³. For con-
venience the path of the needle is at an angle from the bed plate. a is
the looper attached to a shaft 6 parallel to the bed of the machine or at
an angle to the needle c as seen in Fig. 14, and is operated by the
vibration of lever D from a cam D' which gives to the looper a

page_text: vibratory movement as seen in Fig. 17 so as to carry the looper above
and below the needle crossing the path of the needle in its movement,
as seen in Fig. 17. The axis of the motion of the looper being inclined
to the needle it will be observed gives to the looper a peculiar movement
relative to the needle, that is to say, in passing up over the needle it
shortens the thread between the needle and looper so that as the looper
drops there is no slack thread, hence the looper serves the double purpose of
looper and take up. The needle is of the kind known as hooked or barbed,
and catches the thread when it is passed over the needle by the looper in
similar manner as in other chain stitch machines. The thread is run
from a spool E through the column E¹, where it is heated to soften and
render it more flexible by applying the heat to the said column in any
convenient manner, then the thread is run through the eye of the looper,
as denoted in Figs. 14 and 15, the proper tension being applied in its
course. F is a carriage supported in a frame F", and carries a vertical
spindle F. The frame F¹ is attached to a column F so as to swing
transversly thereon while the carriage F will move longitudinally in the
said frame, thus enabling a universal movement to be given to the
spindle F, and the said spindle passing through the bars of the frame F
is firmly fixed to a cross head f, to which a former e, is attached by
connections h (see Figs. 14 and 16), by the turning of which former the
spindle will be turned correspondingly. The former is of the shape of
the sole of the shoe to be stitched, and is constructed with teeth upon
its edge, as seen in Fig. 16, into which a pinion n fixed to a wheel G
works, so that by the turning of the said wheel G the former is turned
or worked along by the pinion n the former being held in connection
with the pinion by an arm m extending over and hooking into a groove
or flange in the said former as seen in Fig. 16, the end of the said arm
which hooks on to the former is necessarily of the peculiar form denoted
in Fig. 5, in order that the form may turn properly at the toe, that is,
so that the edge of the hook will strike the flange or sides of the grooves
in the former a little in advance of the turn of the toe. Upon the
upper end of the spindle F, the last with the shoe or boot thereon is
arranged as at H, Figs. 14 and 15, corresponding in position to the
former e below, and so as to present the shoe to the needle in proper
position for stitching, an intermittent motion being given to the wheel G
in order to feed the shoe for each successive stitch, and such movement
is given by a cam I through a lever I' and a connecting rod I' operating
another lever I' attached to the centre or shaft of the wheel G, and

page_text: upon which a pawl or clamp i is arranged so that the movement of the
lever I back will take back the pawl and its forward movement will
carry with it the wheel G, the extent of such movement being regulated
by the set screw I³, see Fig. 14, and the wheel G is held to prevent its
return by a set pawl K. In order to raise or lower the shoe so as to
present it in proper position to be stitched in passing the curves of the
soles, the spindle F is supported by a spring which forces it upward
so as to always present the shoe for the passage of the needle properly
through the sole, the sole bearing against the guide L arranged so as to
be adjusted vertically to guide the shoe as before described.
For convenience I show sections of the sole in Figs. 19 and 20. The
sole is cut into proper form, and, as before described, a ledge 1 formed
entirely around near its edge, so that the upper 2 being placed upon the
outer side of this flange, as seen at the right of Fig. 20, or with the
upper 2 and welt 3 as at the left, so that the needle may enter upon the
inside of the projecting ledge, and pass through the said ledge and upper.
and welt, if used, as seen at the left in Fig. 20. The guide L rests in
the angle of the sole and ledge, as seen in Fig. 20, therefore as the sole
passes under the said guide it depresses the shoe to force it down as the
elevated portions advance toward the needle, and the spring on the
spindle forces up the shoe as the depressed portions of the sole advance
toward the needle, so that the shoe is always presented in proper position
for the passage of the needle through the sole. N is the welt guide
arranged so as to present the welt & in proper position to be stitched to
the sole upon the upper. This of course is not needed when no welt is.
used, as for turned work. As a support against the shoe while the
needle is passing through I arrange an arm P, which bears against the
edge and prevents yielding of the shoe, so that the needle easily passes
therethrough. When the shoe has been presented in proper position for
the needle to pass through and form the stitch it is important that the
shoe be firmly held in that position, therefore it is not expedient to
depend entirely upon the upward pressure of the spring on the spindle, as
that might be liable to yield. I therefore arrange upon one of the bars
of the frame F an incline T (may be one or two, as seen in Fig. 14, and
over this a sliding bar T with corresponding inclinations, the said bar
brought around the spindle so as to move freely back and forth, and on
the spindle a collar Ts is formed, so that when the bar T is drawn
forward the inclines will force it upward until the bar rests against

page_text: The
the collar T, and is so forced forward by a spring T, and at each move-
ment or feed the bar is withdrawn by the action of a cam T' through a
lever denoted in broken lines, Fig. 14; and so soon as the feed has taken
place the bar springs forward, wedging as it were the shoe up to its
proper position, its forward movement being limited only by raising or
lowering the spindle to accomodate the curvature of the sole.
waxed thread sometimes adheres to the needle, so that after the loop is
formed the needle cannot free itself from the loop. To ensure such
operation I arrange a vertical shaft t, to the lower end of which is a
finger or hook r, to which a vibrating movement is given by the lever R
through the arm S to turn the finger as from the position in Fig. 18 to
that in red in the same Fig., in which movement the finger will turn
the loop from the needle, but the needle being inclined it is necessary
that a corresponding downward movement be given to the hook r so as
to lift the thread from the hook of the needle and carry it down. For
this purpose I arrange a cam u so that as the shaft T revolves a pro-
jection from the said shaft, as seen in Fig. 14, will work upon the face
of the said cam and depress the hook so as to take the loop and carry it
from the needle. As an additional support or guide I arrange an
'adjustable presser foot U, see Fig. 14, set so as to bear upon the sole and
aid the guide L in governing or controlling the movement of the shoe.
The column E¹ is made to open by the removal of one side, or in any
other convenient manner, for the introduction of the thread and proper
device for heating the same.
I will now proceed to describe the machine for stitching the sole to
the welt, as illustrated in Figs. 21 to 32 inclusive. The general appear-
ance of the machine and many parts of it are the same as the machine
which I have here last described. A is the bed plate, from which rise
standards B supporting in bearings B' the driving shaft B³, to which
power is applied in any convenient manner. C is the needle bar carrying
the needle c, and supported on a slide c', to which a reciprocating move-
ment is imparted by the excentric C³. The needle is shewn enlarged in
Figs. 27, 28, and 29, and is of a peculiar form, the object being to
construct the needle so that it will pass freely and easily through the
leather upon two opposite sides. The needle is grooved, so that in section
it will be as seen in Fig. 28, one concave side being shewn in Fig. 27
with the eye near the point. Instead of being brought to a sharp point
as common needles I make a flat point, as seen in Fig. 29, this being a

page_text: view of the needle turned one quarter round from Fig. 27. This form,
cuts its way through the leather, making a perforation which will close-
when the needle returns, whereby the thread is held tightly in the.
leather. b is the looper fixed to a vertical spindle 6, and attached to.
a lever D, which operated by a cam D' depresses the looper at the
required moment, and partial rotation is thereby given the looper by
the cam E through the lever E' and a connecting rod E, which is
attached to the spindle 6', as seen in Figs. 21 and 23. The operation of
the looper is such that the needle being threaded and passed through the
leather the looper will catch the thread above the eye of the needle,
holding and carrying it from the needle, so that at the next passage of
the needle through the leather it will pass through the loop first made
and held by the looper b. F is a guide made adjustable vertically so as
to bear upon the upper leather near the edge of the last and at the welt,
as seen in Fig. 31. F is an adjustable guide hooked at its end so as to
run in the groove of the sole, as seen in Fig. 31. The needle in its
descent passes over the end of the guide F through the sole and welt
and through a slot formed in the end of the guide F, as denoted in
Fig. 31. The guide F is held up by a spring f so as to accommodate
itself to the slight irregularities which may exist in the formation of the
groove insole, or to accomodate itself relatively to the guide F, which
is set rigidly. The thread which the needle carries is passed over a
tension apparatus G, thence through a tube G¹ to the needle. Heat is
applied in any convenient manner to the tube G' to soften the waxed
thread and bring it to the required state for sewing. To feed the work
a vibratory movement is given to the needle bar by the cam H operating
a sliding bar H', as more clearly shewn in Fig. 30. Inverted, that is to.
say, looking up from below the machine, the needle bar works through
a guide c³, the space in the said guide being broader than the needle bar
to allow the vibration thereof, the bar being pivoted to the slide c..
At 2 the bar H¹ extends into the guide beside the needle bar, and its
end is inclined, so that as it is forced through the guide it will strike an
adjusting screw c; the inclined end passing over the screw forces the
bar H and the needle bar c to one side, as denoted in broken lines,
and on the return of the bar H' a spring c³ throws back the needle bar.
The operation of the bar H' occurs at the dead point while the needle is
through the sole. To aid the needle both in the feed as well as
perforation of the leather I arrange an auxiliary awl d in
that when the needle has passed through the leather to its
in the
such position
fullest extent,
B

page_text: the said awl being attached to the needle bar will enter the leather and
partially perforate it, and the awl is set at the distance (in advance of
the needle) required for the length of the stitch, so that as the needle
comes down for the next stitch it will strike into the previous partial
perforation of the awl. This operation facilitates or lessens the force
required to drive the needle through the leather, and at the same time
relieves the needle to a greater extent in the operation of feeding, as the
feed occurs while the awl is in the leather. The awl is made adjustable
by set screws 3, 3, 2, as seen in Fig. 26, so as to be arranged at the
required distance from the needle. I is the last upon which the boot or
shoe is prepared for soling; it is fixed to a spindle I' arranged in the end
of an arm I, and so as to bear the last or shoe against the guides, as
seen in Fig. 21. To accommodate the last to the required position the
arm I is hung in a universal joint to a vertical swinging bar K, and is
supported by a segment L extending from the arm I' down and passing
through a slot in the bar K. The vertical movement of the arm I is
necessary to turn the last round the heel and toe, as also to adapt it to
the irregular shape of the edge, but at each stitch it is advisable that
the arm I be locked to prevent the displacement of the shoe by the
operation of the needle. For this purpose I arrange a sliding key L, see
Fig. 21, operated by a cam L to a lever L and a bar I, which connects
to the said key, so that as soon as the feed has taken place the said
bar L will be locked by the said key L, at that time being thrown for-
ward so as to wedge the bar L by the action of a spring, see Fig. 23, and
then immediately before the feed takes place the cam L operates to
withdraw the key L. This provides only for the vertical movement of
the arm I, trusting to the transverse movement of the spindle I' for the
irregular shape of the bottom of the sole. This transverse movement
may hower be given by allowing the segment L a little play trans-.
versely; this is done by placing a plate L' upon the swinging bar K over
the slot through which the segment L moves, and arranging this plate
so that it may slide vertically as from the position in Fig. 21 to Fig. 22,
and vice versa. The corresponding slot formed in the plate when in the
position seen in Fig. 22 being of the same width as the segment it will
prevent any transverse movement, but if the plate be dropped to the
position seen in Fig. 21, and the slot to that position made wider, as
shewn, then the bar segment is free for transverse movement. The
plate L is arranged so as to be fixed in either position. At the same
time that the arm 1' is locked it is also necessary to lock the spindle I' to,

page_text: prevent it turning. I therefore arrange upon the spindle a flanged
wheel N, see Figs. 24, 25, and 25°, keyed firmly thereto; then within
the flange I arrange a divided ring n, and along the side of the arm I*
I arrange a sliding bar N' entering the divided side of the ring n, as
seen in Fig. 25, and the end of the sliding bar N¹ is made wedge-
shaped, so that as it is forced in the ring n is spread and clamps on the
flange of the wheel N and prevents its turning; but when the bar is
withdrawn the wheel N will turn freely, and the sliding bar N' is
operated at the proper time by the lever N' hung on the swinging bar K,
and so as to be operated by the key 1', that is, when the key L' throws
forward to lock the segment L it will at the same time throw forward
the sliding bar N¹ to clamp the spindle. The boot or shoe, after the
welt has been sewed thereon as before described, and the outer sole
temporally attached thereto in any convenient manner, is with its last
placed in the machine, as seen in Figs. 21 and 23, and on to the guides F
and F, as seen in Fig. 31. Power being then applied to the machine
the welt and the sole will be stitched together.
This machine may be adapted to the stitching of the welt to the upper
and insole by placing in the arm I³, as seen in Fig. 32, an arm P to
which the spindle F is placed so as to set the shoe sole up, and thus
adapt this machine to the sewing of the two kinds of work. I, however,
prefer the two machines I have described. The tension G is formed from
a single round plate of metal hung so as to revolve on a pivot g, and is
divided radially, as seen in Fig. 21, and alternate segments turned in
either direction, as seen in Fig. 21*, so that the thread is passed between
the segments and interlaced therein, and forms a tension upon the
thread. The said tension is fixed to the slide C so as to move with it,
and always maintain the same relative position to the needle. The
tension is regulated by pressing the spring on the pivot more or less
hard against the plate G, as seen in Fig. 21".
Having thus fully described this Invention as communicated to me
from abroad, I claim as new and useful,-
First. In a last for the making of boots and shoes, forming the edge or
bottom of the sole of equal width or broader than that portion directly
above, substantially as shewn and described.
Second. The herein-described sole as an article of manufacture.

page_text: Third. The vertical last-carrying spindle F in the carriage F, and
arranged to move in the swinging frame F', whereby a universal move-
ment may be imparted to the said last, substantially as set forth.
Fourth. In combination with the mechanism of the first clause of
'claim the former e for controlling the movement of the last-carrying
spindle, substantially as set forth.
Fifth. The reciprocating bar T with one or more inclines T in
combination with the last-supporting spindle carried in a swinging
frame so as to hold the said spindle in the required position vertically,
substantially as set forth.
Sixth. The adjustable stationary guide L in combination with the
mechanism of the first clause of claim so as to govern the extent of the
vertical movement of the last-supporting spindle carrying the boot or
shoe being sewed, substantially as set forth.
Seventh. In a machine for sewing leather I claim constructing the
needle with a flat point and two concave sides, substantially as shewn
and described.
Eighth. In a machine for sewing leather I claim the combination of
the sewing needle and the awl d arranged so as to be adjustable relative
to the said needle, substantially as set forth.
Ninth. The combination of the needle bar C and the lever H¹, upon
which is formed an incline, and the adjusting screw C to move the
needle so as to feed the work, substantially as set forth.
Tenth. The tension wheel G formed from a disc of metal divided
radially so as to permit the interlacing of the thread and to operate
substantially as described.
Eleventh. The guide F constructed and arranged to work in the
groove of the sole, and adjustable so as to accommodate itself to the
irregularities of the groove or the edge of the sole relatively to the path
of the needle, substantially in the manner herein set forth.
Twelfth. The arm I' carrying the shoe holder, and hung so as to have
a universal movement to adjust the shoe to the proper position for the
operation of sewing, substantially as set forth.
Thirteenth. The spindle I' arranged in the arm I, and constructed
so as to be rotated and at the same time to yield to the irregularities
of the sole, substantially as set forth.

page_text: Fourteenth. In combination with the spindle I'I claim the wheel N,
the ring n, and the wedge shape bar N', so as to lock the spindle and
prevent its turning, substantially as described.
Fifteenth. In combination with the arm II claim the segment L
with the wedge I' arranged for clamping and holding the said arm,
substantially as set forth.
Sixteenth. In combination with the arm I' and the segment L I claim
the plate L constructed and adjustable so as to permit or prevent, as the
case may be, the lateral movement of the arm I, substantially as set
forth.
Seventeenth. In combination with the arm II claim the swinging
arm P so as to hold the spindle I' to adjust the shoe for stitching,
substantially as set forth.
In witness whereof, I, the said Edward Thomas Hughes, have
hereunto set my hand and seal, this Eighteenth day of February,
in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy.