Year: 1893

page_text: Date of Application, 29th June, 1893-Accepted, 5th May, 1894
Figs. 7 and 8 show mechanism for operating the shuttle and needle.
Figs. 94 and 98 show the method of sewing together two cloth edges.
Fig. 10 and Fig. 10B respectively show an embroidered circle and an ornamental
seam or wave-line.
The shuttle-shaft a has its bearings in a cylindrical casing c, and carries in
front the shuttle a', together with the circular thread spool a; on the opposite end
of the said shaft is fixed a slotted guide or crank arm a³, which receives a crank pin
or pivotal stud a* fixed to a vertical lever a (Figs. 1 and 7).
With its upper end the opposite arm of this lever is joined to the crankpin i¹ of
the horizontal shaft i, while the fulcrum is formed by a bolt a passing through a
longitudinal slot of the said lever. Owing to this method of mounting and guiding
the lever as, its pin a* describes an elliptic path, and as the major portion of this
curve is situated above the shaft a, the latter will turn more rapidly, while a* travels
through the lower part of its elliptical path, than when it is on the upper part,
(provided that the shaft i revolves at a constant speed) thereby ensuring a rapid
entry of the shuttle hook into the loop of the needle thread.
The needle bar b carrying the needle n is guided in a block 6', which allows the
needle to move up and down and is in its turn capable of oscillating on a horizontal
axis like a pendulum.
By means of the rod 6, the needle bar bis connected with the crank pin ³ of a
crank disc fixed on the shaft i, so that the turning of the shaft i will produce an
up and down motion of the needle bar (Fig. 8). This arrangement has for its
object, that in the left hand position indicated in Fig. 6, the needle goes back
earlier than in the right hand position, and as in this position the shuttle shaft a
has a greater speed, the entry into the thread loop in the two extreme positions will
take place at the right moment, even when the machine is making a broad zig-zag
seam, Figs. 5 and 6.
The pendulous motion of the needle bar guide 6' is produced by a grooved drum k³,
which is turned by the wheels r¹, r³, so as to describe only one half the number of
revolutions of the shaft i.
The connection between the grooved drum k¹ and the guide block is made by
a lever k³, pivoted at 4° and carrying at one end a friction roller
situated in the

page_text: curved groove of the drum; connecting rod k', lever and vertical rocking
shaft carrying a lever k connected with the guide block b¹ by a ball and
socket joint.
By shifting the pin of the connecting rod k in the slot of the lever k*, the
amplitude of the oscillation, and consequently the width of the zigzag seam may
be varied.
If the point of application of the connecting rod is shifted back to the fulcrum ko
of the lever k³, the oscillating or pendulous motion ceases, and the machine produces
an ordinary double lock-stitch seam.
The cloth feeder d is arranged as in the well-known Bonnaz embroidering machine,
so that it can transport the cloth in any direction.
Fig. 9 shows a pivoted part of the arm g (Fig. 1) on a larger scale. e is a steel
tongue inserted into the pivoted part of the arm g for the purpose of guiding the
cloth edges, so that the workman who brings the two pieces together, cannot shift
one over the other.
In order that the direction of the seam may be varied during the operation
of sewing, I employ a crank l, which is connected with the spindle d of the
cloth feeder d by means of shafts w¹ w and tooth wheels
in such a
manner, that the position of the crank corresponds to the temporary direction of
the seam.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is;-
1. A lock-stitch cylinder sewing machine adapted to produce, besides the ordinary
double lock-stitch, zigzag stitches in the direction of the cylinder axis, and back
stitches in the direction of its circumference this being effected by means of an
oscillating motion of the needle bar on a horizontal axis (r) at every pair of stitches,
and a universal cloth feeder allowing the machine to produce seams in any desired
direction, substantially as described.
2. A lock-stitch cylinder sewing machine constructed and adapted to operate
substantially as described and illustrated by the drawings.
Dated this 28th day of June 1893.
B. KOHLER,
By Fairfax & Wetter,
433, Strand, London, Agents.