IMPROVE- MENTS IN MACHINES FOR STITCHING OR SEWING THE EDGES OF BUTTON, EYELET, AND OTHER HOLES IN CLOTH, LEATHER, AND OTHER MATERIALS, AND FOR STITCHING OR SEWING THE EDGES OF CLOTH, LEATHER, AND OTHER MATERIALS GENERALLY."
Year: 1868

page_text: ETTERS PATENT to Henri Adrien Bonneville, of the British and
Foreign Patent Offices, 10, Sackville Street, Piccadilly, in the
County of Middlesex, and 18, Chaussée d'Antin, Paris, in the
Empire of France, Patent Agent, for the Invention of "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN MACHINES FOR STITCHING OR SEWING THE EDGES OF BUTTON,
EYELET, AND OTHER HOLES IN CLOTH, LEATHER, AND OTHER MATERIALS,
AND FOR STITCHING OR SEWING THE EDGES OF CLOTH, LEATHER, AND OTHER
MATERIALS GENERALLY." A communication from Elliot G. Storke,
residing at Auburn City, in the State of New York, United States of
America.
Sealed the 21st August 1868, and dated the 30th May 1868.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Henri Adrien Bonneville
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition,
on the 30th May 1868.
I, HENRI ADRIEN BONNEVILLE, of the British and Foreign Patent
5 Offices, 10, Sackville Street, Piccadilly, in the County of Middlesex, and
18, Chaussée d'Antin, Paris, in the Empire of France, Patent Agent, do
hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN

page_text: "
MACHINES POR STITCHING OR SEWING THE EDGES OF BOTTON, EYELET, AND OTHER
HOLES IN CLOTH, LEATHER, AND OTHER MATERIALS, AND FOR STITCHING OR
SEWING THE EDGES OF CLOTH, LEATHER, AND OTHER MATERIALS GENERALLY,"
a communication from Elliot G. Storke, a person resident at Auburn
City, in the State of New York, United States of America, to be as
follows:-
The improvements embraced in the Invention communicated to me
relate to machines for stitching or sewing the edges of button, eyelet,
and other holes in cloth, leather, and other materials, and for stitching
or sewing the edges of cloth, leather, and other materials generally,
which improvements from their peculiar construction and arrangement
will enable an ordinary sewing machine, when they are properly
attached thereto, to be used for button holes and other similar sewing
or stitching, and upon their removal to be used for ordinary sewing
or stitching.
These improvements consist,-
First. In so arranging a hook, eye, or other needle or lever with
reference to the movement of the shuttle or other under-thread carrier
of a sewing machine as, at the proper moment with reference to the for-
mation by the ordinary needle and shuttle or other under-thread carrier
of the machine of the common stitch, to draw the said shuttle or other
under-thread back or away from the line of stitches; in other words,
the plane of movement of the needle in combination with so arranging
a hook, split, or other suitable needle or lever as to seize the thread
drawn from the line of stitches, as above stated, and to take and carry
it up around the edge of the cloth to and over its upper side into
such a position with reference to the movement of the needle, that
as such needle descends again to form another stitch by its thread
with the shuttle or other under-thread, it will pass through the loop
of the shuttle or other under-thread formed on the upper side of the
cloth, as above described, and thus there secure it, completing with
the running of the machine which is otherwise as in common machines
a stitch about the edge, that is repeated when the machine is run at
every operation of the needle and under-thread carrier.
Second. In combination with the above so constructing and arranging
the hook, eye, split, and other needles by which a thread is carried
around the edge of cloth or other material with reference to the shuttle
or other under-thread carrier, and so providing such shuttle or othe

page_text: under-thread carrier with a cam of suitable form or other device, that
directly from the movement of such shuttle or other under-thread
carrier as the machine is run, the necessary motion will be given to
the said needles carrying the thread about the edge of the cloth, leather,
or other material, as before stated.
Third. In so arranging the needles herein-before referred to, or their
equivalents, for carrying a thread about the edge of the cloth to form
a stitch around the same upon a plate or plates in combination with
any suitable attachment to the ordinary mechanism of a sewing machine,
as for instance, with a cam applied to the shuttle or other under-
thread carrier, as to render the said mechanism susceptible of ready
attachment to and detachment from the sewing machine, whereby
with such an arrangement and construction of parts, one and the same
sewing machine can be used for ordinary sewing and stitching or for
what is commonly known as the "button hole" or "herring-bone
stitching" as may be desired.
Fourth. In providing a plate or shield to cover the mechanism of
the needles to form the button hole or over-edge stitch, and to enable
the cloth, leather, or other material to be the more freely turned about
when to be stitched around the edge of a button or other hole, the cloth
resting on such plate, which is suitably formed to afford no obstruction
to the making of the over-edge stitch by the needles.
Fifth. Providing the plate or shield just above referred to with
a pin or stud at the proper point for facilitating the turning of the
goods or cloth to enable the edge of a button or other hole to be
properly presented to the action of the sewing mechanism.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Henri Adrien Bonneville in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 24th August 1868.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, HENRI
ADRIEN BONNEVILLE, of the British and Foreign Patent Offices, 10,
Sackville Street, Piccadilly, in the County of Middlesex, and 18,
Chaussée d'Antin, Paris, in the Empire of France, Patent Agent, send,
greeting.

page_text: WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Thirtieth day of May, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-eight, in the
thirty-first year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and suc-
cessors, give and grant unto me, the said Henri Adrien Bonneville,
Her special license that I, the said Henri Adrien Bonneville, my exe-
cutors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Henri
Adrien Bonneville, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at
any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times
thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might
make, use, excrcise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention
for "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINES FOR STITCHING OR SEWING THE EDGES OF
BUTTON, EYELET, AND OTHER HOLES IN CLOTH, LEATHER, AND OTHER MATERIALS,
AND FOR STITCHING OR SEWING THE EDGES OF CLOTH, LEATHER, AND OTHER
MATERIALS GENERALLY," a communication from Elliot G. Storke, a person
resident at Auburn City, in the State of New York, United States of
America, upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said Henri
Adrien Bonneville, my executors or administrators, by an instrument
in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should
particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention,
and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the
same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar
months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters
!
Patent.
"
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Henri Adrien Bonneville, do hereby
declare the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement :—
The Invention presently communicated to me relates to improvements
in sewing machines, which from the peculiar form and arrangement of
their parts partake of the form of an attachment to an ordinary sewing
machine, and more particularly to that class of such machines as have a
shuttle or other under-thread carrier, thus employing two threads to form
the stitch, the object and purpose of the improvements being to form a
button hole or herring-bone stitch so called and known along the edge
of the goods or materials, or of a button or other hole thereof as it is
being sewed in the machine.

page_text: And the Invention consists of an attachment to or of a construction
of an ordinary sewing machine that in its several parts is so arranged
as to operate in connection with the forward and backward movement
of the shuttle carrier,, or with the ordinary movement of any other
under-thread carrier of a sewing machine, and of the needle through
the cloth or other material to take up the slack at the heel of the shuttle,
or from any other under-thread carrier just previous or at the time the
ordinary shuttle or other two-threaded stitch has been completed, and
to carry it forward upon the under side of the cloth to its edge, and
thence up and around such edge to and over the upper side of the cloth
in time for the next downward movement of the needle to pass through
the loop of the shuttle or other under-thread which is thus formed, and
there secures such loop, completing the button-hole stitch in the goods
or cloth, while the downward movement of the needle continuing in
connection with the forward movement of the shuttle or other under-
thread carrier (which as the button-hole stitch was being formed, as
above described, has moved back to its original position), the next shuttle
or other two-threaded stitch is formed and in combination therewith as
before, the slack of the shuttle or other under-thread again taken and
made to form a button-hole stitch by drawing it to the edge and up and
around it to the upper side of the cloth as before, and so on as long as
the machine is properly operated.
In the accompanying plate of Drawings tho present improvements
are illustrated in connection with the arrangement of a shuttle according
to that employed in a sewing machine of that class commonly and well
known to the trade as the "Singer."
Figure 1 being a plan or top view of the said improvements arranged
and placed in proper position upon the machine for operation.
Fig. 2, a vertical section taken in the plane of the line x, x, Figure 1.
Fig. 3, a transverse vertical section taken in the plane of the line y, y,
Figure 1.
Fig. 4, a plain or top view of the bed plate to the machine with
the improvements embraced herein removed, showing the shuttle race
open or exposed and one form of cam applied to the shuttle carrier
for operating the parts to form the button-hole stitch from the shuttle
thread.

page_text: Fig. 5, an edge or side view of
ment of parts embraced herein.
Fig. 6, a view showing the stitch but greatly enlarged and spread.
Fig. 7, a plan or top view of a modification in the arrangement of
the parts to form the button-hole stitch from that shown in the pre-
ceding Figures, the operation, however, being substantially similar to
the same.
Fig. 8, a vertical section taken in the plane of the line z, z, Fig. 7.
Fig. 9, a vertical section taken in the plane of the line w, o, Fig. 7.
Fig. 10, a view in detail of one of the needles or thread carrying
devices employed in the arrangement of parts shown in Fig. 7.
A in the Drawings represents the bed or platform of the machine,
which platform is supported upon legs B at each corner, and on it are
to be arranged in the ordinary manner the devices and parts common
to any of the shuttle machines or those in which two threads are
employed to form the stitch; C, the way or race in bed or platform A
for the play of the shuttle; D, the shuttle; D, its carrier; E, the feed
wheel; F, the groove in bed plate A where the ordinary throat plate
to the machine is inserted. In the groove for the throat plate to the
machine after such plate has been removed, the plate H carrying the.
attachment embraced by this Invention is inserted and secured by set
screws I, or in any other proper manner which will allow of its ready
attachment and of its removal when desired, this plate H extending
across and over the shuttle race C of the machine. To and on the
plate H are arranged the parts or mechanical devices to be now described,
which in connection with the forming of the shuttle stitch by the needle
and shuttle as in ordinary sewing machines of that class operate to form
the button-hole stitch desired, the plate H being suitably constructed
to receive such parts, and with a throat or opening a for the needle to
pass down through it to the shuttle race below. I³, a narrow slide
arranged in a slot J of the plate H, which slot extends from the throat a
of such plate in a direction back of the same, and in a line at right
augles to the movement of the shuttle in the machine. This slide
extends under the throat to the plate H, and through such extension
a throat or opening is made corresponding in position to the plate
throat and forming a continuation thereof when under the same. K, a
lever or arm hung by one and on a fulcrum pin c at the rear or further

page_text: end of the slide, and to its upper side from which it extends towards
the plate throat a, and when not in operation or at rest lies in a groove
made in the upper face of such plate extending by its extreme end L
which is made of a hook shape, under the throat to the attachment plate
between it and the throat in the slide I. M, a right-angular shaped
lever hung at its angle N to a fulcrum pin upon the under side of the
attachment plate H; the longer arm O of this lever M is hung by its
slot d upon a pin or stud f of the slide I, while to the outer end of its
shorter arm P is connected one end of a spring Q, that at its other end is
fixed to the upper side of the plate or attachment holder H. g, a pin
secured in one side of hook lever K at or near its tail or fulcrum end,
which pin as the slide to which such lever is attached is moved backward
plays under the horizontal arm R secured by its slot and a set screw S
to the top of the holder plate, and against the under side of such arm,
until at its issue from the open end of the same it passes up and upon
the raised lip or edge T secured by a slot and set screw as has been
described for the arm R to the plate H, both the arm R and lip T
extending in a direction parallel to that in which the slide moves and
forming a continuation as it were of each other. In continuation of
slot J for slide I, another slide U is arranged to move between the rear
or tail end of said slide I and cross bar or piece V to plate or holder H;
to the upper side of this slide U a lever or arm W is hung, which arm
extends forward towards the throat a of the holder, and has secured in
its socket X by set screw m a needle or piece of steel Y split from its
outer end in the direction of and for a portion of its length. Z, a raised
rib or bridge secured by slot and set screw on plate H in position for
the lever having split needle, as it is carried forward and backward, to
move over the same, and thus to swing the said lever upon its fulcrum.
A, a lug or projection on under side of slide U carrying split needle,
through which lug such slide is operated, as will be herein-after
described. B2, a spring connected with slide U to throw or draw back
the same after operation. D', a slot plate secured by set screws E³ to
upper side of shuttle carrier D, which plate has a raised lip E' provided
at one end with a bent spring F, the said lip and its bent spring as the
shuttle carrier moves forward and backward in the shuttle race producing
the operation of the parts composing our improved attachment herein
above described.

page_text: its operation with a shuttle sewing machine of the "Singer' manu-
facture so known. First remove the throat plate of the machine when
in its place, secure by means of screws I* the holder or plate H carrying
the working mechanism in the relative position shown, then adjust the
feed wheel to a height corresponding with the attachment, and having
the machine otherwise adjusted, it is ready for sewing the button hole
desired by properly bringing and subjecting its edge to the action of the
sewing mechanism, or in other words, for the needle to pass through it
and form the stitch, which, so far as it relates to the shuttle stitch, is the
same as if the attachment were not in place upon the machine. But
with the attachment, in addition to the shuttle stitch, the thread from the
shuttle is made to form what is known as a button-hole stitch, or in
other words, carried around the edge of the button hole by means of
the hook and split levers acting the one after the other, the hook lever
first taking the slack thread at the heel of the shuttle at or near the
completion of its forward movement, and carrying it up therefrom into
the split needle or lever, where, leaving it as the shuttle moves backward,
it is carried by such needle around the edge of the cloth to its upper side
in position thereon for the needle, as it again descends, to pass into the
loop of the thread thus formed, and there secure and hold it, while the
split needle withdraws and comes to its proper position to again receive
the shuttle thread for again carrying it around and over the edge of the
button hole as before, and so on as long as the machine may be run or
kept in motion. The hook lever thread carrier is operated by the abut-
ment of the end L³ of the lip E to the shuttle carrier against the short
arm of the lever connected with the said thread carrier as the shuttle
moves forward, which causes the said hook to be drawn away from the
throat of the attachment, while at the same time by its pin g moving
over the raised edge T of the holder plate H, it is made to rise or lift
sufficiently to bring the thread carrier by it into the split needle or
lever, when the shuttle lip, having passed by the said arm to the lever,
the hook lever is then thrown back to its original position under the
throat to the plate H by the action of the spring Q. The split needle
upon the backward movement of the shuttle carrier is actuated by the
spring of the lip formed upon such carrier, as in the backward move-
ment of such carrier it passes against the side of the lug attached to
the under side of the slide carrying such split needle, and causes such
slide to be moved forward, and consequently its split needle, and when
the said lip has passed by the lug of the split needle slide the spring B

page_text: connected with such slide throws or draws it back to its original
position for the next movement of the hook-shaped thread carrier.
In the sewing of the button holes, in order to hold the button hole
open while being sewed, a raised cover His hung to the attachment in
such manner that when closed over it, it will form a rest for the oppo-
site edge of the button hole to that on which the needle is operating
above the plane of such edge, and thereby hold the same open or away
therefrom sufficiently to prevent any interference with the needle
movement.
In Fig. 6 the stitch made by this improved attachment is shown on
an enlarged and somewhat open form, the thread in red being that from
the shuttle and the thread in black from the needle.
In the arrangement shown in Fig. 7, in lieu of using a hook needle as
above described in connection with the Figures from 1 to 6 inclusive,
and therein shown, a slide needle A', if it may be so termed, is therein
employed, and for the split needle a needle B* of a prong shape at its
outer end is substituted. The one needle A' draws the shuttle or other
under thread back from the needle throat, it being operated by the
incline C of the cam D', to shuttle carrier as the shuttle moves back.
ward; and the other B* carries it forward to and over the edge, bringing
its loop in position for the ordinary eye-pointed needle to pass through,
and there secure it. This needle B' receives its motion from the
incline E of the cam F on shuttle carrier, as such carrier is on its back-
ward movement. G', a lever connected with slide needle A', by and
through which as it projects into position for the cam D' of shuttle
carrier to act upon it the said needle A' is operated. H', a lever by
which the prong needle B' is operated through its abutment by its end I'
against the cam F. J', link piece connecting needle B', and operating
lever H. K', plate or shield covering operating parts, shown in Figure 7,
for protection against the cloth being sewed; this plate at L is provided
with a pin M to facilitate the turning of the goods for a button-hole cye
to be stitched.
Having thus described the nature of the said Invention, and the
manner of carrying the same into effect, I would have it understood
that I do not confine myself to the precise details above enumerated, as
these may obviously be modified without departing from the principle of
the Invention, but what I claim is,-

page_text: First. The combination of a hook or slide needle or lever, or its
equivalent, with a split or other needle or lever, or its equivalent, both
acting the one after the other to carry the thread from the shuttle or
other under-thread carrier of a sewing machine to the upper side of the
cloth being sewed, and around its edge when such levers or needles are
arranged to operate together and with reference to the ordinary sewing
mechanism of a machine, substantially as described and for the purpose
set forth.
Second. Operating the hook or slide and split or other levers, or their
respective equivalents with reference to the ordinary sewing mechanism
of a machine by and through the forward and backward movement of
the shuttle or other under-thread carrier of the machine, substantially
as and for the purpose specified.
Third. An attachment to a sewing machine when constructed and
arranged for operation and adaptation to a sewing machine, substantially
as described for the purpose specified.
Fourth. Providing mechanism for forming a button-hole stitch so
termed or an equivalent stitch with a cover or shield plate, substantially
as described for the purpose specified.
Fifth. The pin M' to the shield plate, substantially as described and
for the purpose specified.
In witness whereof, I, the said Henri Adrien Bonneville, have
hereunto set my hand and scal, this Third day of July, in the
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-eight.
H. BONNEVILLE. (L.S.)