An Improved Method of Cutting Necktie Linings with a Band-knife or other Power-knife.
Year: 1891

page_text: Date of Application, 29th Oct., 1891
Complete Specification Left, 8th July, 1892-Accepted, 13th Aug., 1892
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
An Improved Method of Cutting Necktie Linings with a Band-knife
or other Power-knife.
I, EDGAR DREDGE of 72 High Street, Stoke Newington, London Engineer, do
hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:
:-
Necktie linings are usually cut by hand which is very hard work for the person
cutting, as well as much slower than cutting by the system herein described.
Hitherto on account of the peculiar material employed, which is a soft spongy sort
of cloth called "Swansdown" woven on a hard cotton woof; it has not been found
practicable to cut a number of linings at one time by a machine-knife, unless in
By my
patterns which have straight parallel edges, devoid of curves or recesses.
method any patterns whether straight curved or recessed can be rapidly cut, and in
piles of say six to twelve deep at one time.
I take the metal or wood patterns and connect them at one end to a horizontal
cross-piece by means of screws, and also by vertical pins, there being a hole in the
end of each pattern through which is placed one of the said pins, and then the
cross-piece follows above the pattern. At the other end of the patterns I place
separate detached blocks of similar thickness to the crosspiece, and connect them to
the end of the pattern by similar pins and screws.
I then lay the "Swansdown" upon the patterns, and above it I place a second
series of patterns identical with and lying directly over those beneath the cloth.
The ends of these have also holes which engage with the vertical pins, so that they
cannot move laterally.
This arrangement of cloth and patterns being placed on the table of the revolving
band-knife can be easily guided and shifted about so as to present the curved or
recessed sides of the patterns to the operation of the knife, which enters the cloth
between the detached blocks before described. Any necessary pressure is supplied
by the hands of the operator. In this way a large number of irregular shaped
linings can be rapidly cut out, without disarranging the material, and a perfectly
even cut, and exact similarity of shape is secured.
...
1
OctobЛ- 1801
S. S. BROMHEAD,
97, Newgate Street, London, Agent for Applicant.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
An Improved Method of Cutting Necktie Linings with a Band-knife
or other Power-knife.
I, EDGAR DREDGE of 72 High Street, Stoke Newington, London, Engineer, do
hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to
be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:—
This invention refers to the system of cutting known as band-knife cutting by
machine, in which an endless blade is caused to revolve at high speed over two or
more pullies or drums; and my improvements have no reference to press cutting, in
which a horizontal blade shaped to the pattern required is pressed down on the
material to be cut, as in the case of leather and many small goods, nor does it in
anyway concern, further than as a substitute for it, the ordinary and customary
mode of hand-cutting.
Hitherto, on account of the peculiar material employed, which is a soft spongy

page_text: sort of cloth called "Swansdown," consisting of a soft fleecy warp woven on a hard
cotton woof, it has not been found practicable to cut out a large number of these
linings at one time by a machine knife, except in straight patterns, that is to say in
shapes which have straight or parallel edges devoid of curves or recesses. Hand
cutting is very slow and is hard work for the person cutting.
By my process any pattern whether straight or curved or recessed, or partly
straight and partly recessed or curved, can be rapidly cut, and in piles of thirty six
to seventy two thicknesses deep, a feat never before attempted. Indeed almost any
thickness could be cut, if necessary, with a band-knife of sufficient size and power.
I will now describe the invention with reference to the accompanying drawings
in which
Fig. 1 shows a perspective view of a pile of cloth with templets in position
arranged according to my system, and ready for cutting.
Fig. 2 shows a plan view of a series of similar templets.
It will be seen that the templets a, which are formed by preference of thin.metal
plates with a wood backing, are placed in couples on the cloth before it is cut, one
beneath the cloth, and the other above, but the upper one directly over the other,
and are connected at their ends through holes or recesses formed for the purpose
by the bolts b, with feather muts c, by means of which they are tightened on the
cloth. Instead of these bolts, loops and wedges, or any other suitable mechanical
device may be used for connecting the ends of the templets.
The adjoining templets can be reversed, so that when cutting a pattern such as.is
here shewn, the thick end of one templet can lie between the thin ends of those
next to it.
In this way the cloth can be cut more economically, the only part wasted being
that which forms the recess d, between the two adjoining templets, as only one cut
is required to separate the cloth where the templets adjoin.
The patterns cut out in this manner, from their being formed so exactly to the
shape required, and being so identical in all respects, suit the manufacturer better
than those cut by hand, because, as the linings are used as the foundation for forming
the ties, the silk can therefore be more easily fitted to them.
This saves the workpeople much time and ensures perfect uniformity in the ties
produced.
In the ordinary process as hitherto practised by tie manufacturers, a few linings
are cut on a table, by placing a weighted templet on the material, and shaping them
out by means of a hand knife. In the case of small ties the linings are sometimes
cut by a press knife as before described. Both these processes are necessarily
tedious and expensive and often fail to furnish a clean cut lining.
Owing to my system of clamping the templets tightly together as described,
linings can be produced much quicker, more accurately and at less cost, because the
cloth so clamped and prepared, when placed on the table of the band-knife machine,
can be easily guided and shifted about so as to present the curved or recessed part
of the pattern to the operation of the knife without disarranging the material as
would be the case if cut in the ordinary way without clamping as under my
system.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
:
The method of cutting at one operation a large number of necktie linings by
means of a revolving band knife the material being clamped firmly between two-
templets of identical form, as herein described. and set forth.
Dated this 8th day of July 1892
S. S. BROMHEAD,
97, Newgate Street, London, E.C., Patent Agent.