Improvements in or Connected with Sleeve Studs or Solitaires and such like Dress Fasteners.
Year: 1888

page_text: Date of Application, 1st June, 1888
Complete Specification Left, 28th Feb., 1889
Complete Specification Accepted, 30th Mar., 188
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in or Connected with Sleeve Studs or Solitaires and
such like Dress Fasteners.
I, EDWIN CAVE ALLAN, of 99 Maxwell Street, Glasgow, Lanarkshire,
Manufacturing Chemist, do hereby declare the nature of my invention to be as
follows:-
This Invention has for its object the so constructing of single and duplex spring
studs or solitaires and such like links or fasteners for securing the ends or edges of
sleeve cuffs, or other parts of dress, that they will in addition also secure these cuffs or
parts of dress in the desired position on or to the dress itself and prevent their
shifting as has been the case heretofore except by the use of brooch or common
pins.
The nature and novelty of the inventions or improvements as applied to an
ordinary duplex stem spring, screw, or other stud, or solitaire for ladies' sleeve cuffs,
consist in fitting on to the back or inside of the outer removable part of the stud, a
short hook or bow pin, or it may be a hinged or spring pin, such as used for
small brooches, so that this pin can be first inserted through the edge or other part of
the sleeve of the dress, and when made long passed across the side of the stem part of
the stud, so as to be secured between the two parts of the solitaire, or the sharp end
of the pin may be secured into a bow catch at the other side of the stud before closing
the stem of this 'outer part of the stud on to its inner socket stem which would be
constructed otherwise as usual, leaving room between the two parts of the solitaire or
stud for the pin to pass through, and the point of the pin to be bent down, so as not
to project and catch beyond the outer ornamental part of the stud.
A further improvement consists in fitting, instead of the pin, a single or double
hinged or light spring blade or plate across the inner face and stem of the outer part
of the stud, which when pressed down by the two parts of the solitaire would grip the
cloth of the dress between it and the stud and preferably secured by a catch or clip,
made also in the form of a spring to retain the blade when this is pressed into the clip
by the finger and thumb.

page_text: By another arrangement of this double bladed clip secured on the neck of the
outer stem of the stud for catching the dress, a swivelling or tilting kneed lever
catch may be fulcrumed on one side to catch the dress between the plates, or between
the heel of the tilting catch and spring blade when pressed close. And one or both
of these catching parts of the clip plates may be either fitted with rubber or be
corrugated to take a better grip of the dress. Or otherwise when a single clip plate
is used mounted loose on the neck of the outer stem, it may be made in the form of a
disc nearly the same diameter as the inner plate of the ornamental head of the stud;
and small sharp points may be fitted in one or other of these plates with holes
opposite them in the other plate to grip the dress when the two parts are pressed
together by closing the two parts of the studs; or they might be corrugated or have
rubber instead of the sharp points or the holes.
-Or by another arrangement of the improvements the outer ornamental plate
might be made to swivel on the plate carrying the securing stud of the outer head of-the
solitaire and one of the clip plates, whether the studs are made with single or duplex
stems, so as to grip the cloth of the dress between these said gripping plates or clips
when swivelled over each other with the ornamental head, which would thus secure the
dress and lock itself when swivelled down. When small light neat studs or solitaires arc
required for this new purpose, whether made with single or duplex stems, the elliptical
or elongated ornamental head lends itself best to these new improvements, as by
another improvement a single spring blade may be soldered or fixed to the inner sido
of the elliptical bead, which when opened by a spring knob passed through the inner
end of the elliptical ornamental head or two pressing buttons on each side would
adinit the edge of the sleeve of the dress and grip and hold it automatically by the
strength of the spring.

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in or Connected with Sleeve Studs or Solitaires and
such like Dress Fasteners.
I, EDWIN CAVE ALLAN, of 99 Maxwell Street, Glasgow, Lanarkshire, Manufacturing
Chemist, do hereby declare the nature of my invention and in what manner the
same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement in writing, reference being had to the accompanying Sheet of
Drawings, and to the letters and figures marked tliereon, that is to say :-
This Invention has for its object the so constructing of single and duplex spring
studs or solitaires and such like links or fasteners, for securing the ends or edges of
loose dress sleeve cuffs, or other parts of dress, that they will in addition also secure
these cuffs or parts of dress in the desired position on or to the cuffs or ends of the
sleeves or parts of the dress itself and prevent their shifting as has been the case
heretofore except by the use of brooch or common pins.
0
And in order that my said Invention, and the manner of performing or carrying
the same into effect or practice may be properly understood, I have hereunto appended
an explanatory Sheet of Drawings, in which the same reference letters are used to
indicate corresponding parts in all the figures where shown. Figure 1 shows a per-
spective view of a hand with an ordinary loose dress sleeve cuff as having its ends
or edges fixed merely by an ordinary stud A which permits it to shift on the wrist or
arm z away from the actual cuff or end of the sleeve of the dress Z. Figure 2 shows
a corresponding view of a hand with the cuff z' as fixed with the new stud A, a, which
also secures it in proper position to the end of the sleeve Z of the dress. Figure 3
shows a sectional view of an ordinary duplex spring stud A, A', a, as fitted with one
construction of my new or improved catch as made in the forin of a hook or bent
pin 4, and showing its application to the dress cuff z¹ and sleeve Z of a dress for
securing the stud and dress cuff in proper position to the sleeve Z all as shown in
Figure 2 and Figure 4 is an inverted plan view of the head A of the stud A a corre
sponding to Figure 3. Figure 5 is an elevation of a duplex stud A, A', a as fitted with
a long spring hook or pin a, and shewing its application to the dress cuff z' and
sleeve Z; while Figure 6 is an inverted plan view of the stud head A shown in
Figure 5. Figures 7 and 8 show corresponding views to that shown in Figures 5-
and 6 of a different construction of duplex stud A, A¹ from that shown in Figures 3
to 6, in which the securing hook or pin a is hinged like the pin of a brooch to the
ornamental head A of the stud, and after being inserted through the end edge of the
sleeve Z is passed through an eye in the stem of the inner head A' of the stud, and
then bas its end secured in a catch a' at the other end of the brooch head A. Figure 9
is an elevation partly in section of a spring clip form of catch a", a², for securing the
stud A to the sleeve Z, and also the dress cuff 2' in proper position. Figures, 10 and 11

page_text: show an edge and inverted plan view respectively of the head A of the stud, and
showing the spring clip open and as detached from Figure 9. Figure 9 A shows the
inner head A¹ of the stud with a bayonet joint securing stem, instead of the hollow.
screw stem as shown in Figure 9. Figures 12 and 13 show an elevation and inverted
plan respectively of a duplex stud A, A, a, as fitted with another modification of my
improved spring clip form of catch a, all, a for securing this cuff to the sleeve Z.
Figures 14 and 15 show corresponding views of a duplex stud A A' as fitted with a
simpler form of the spring clip a", a³, from that shown in Figures 12 and 13, and
Figures 16 and 17 show corresponding views of a duplex stud A, A', as fitted with
a screw or turning flange gripper a³, a®.
Referring to these Drawings, the improvements as applied to an ordinary duplex
stem spring, screw, or other stud or solitaire A, A¹ for ladies' sleeve cuffs, consist-in
soldering or fitting on to the back or inside of the outer removable part A of the
stud A, A, a, a short hook or bow pin a as shown in Figures 3 and 4 or a long
hook or bow pin a as shown in Figures 5 and 6, crossing the centre stems A" A
of the solitaire and which is inserted through the edge end of the sleeve of the dress Z
before putting the two stem parts A", A2, of the solitaire together, the stem A" of the
inner head A¹, being first inserted through the button holes of the dress sleeve z¹. Or
otherwise this securing hook a may be made in the form of a hinged or spring pin a
such as used for small brooches as shown in Figures 7 and 8 so that this pin a can be
first inserted through the edge or other part of the sleeve Z of the dress, and when
made long passed through an eye in the stem A" of the inner head of the solitaire A¹,
and then having the sharp end of the pin a secured into a bow catch a' at the opposite
inner side of the-head-A-of-the-solitaire A, A', a, to its hinge as shown in
Figures 7 and 8.
A further-improvement consists in fitting across the removable head A of the
solitaire A, A, a, instead of the pin a, hereinbefore described for gripping the sleeve Z
of the dress, a single or double hinged or light spring blade or plate. as-shown in
various-modifications in Figures to 15, which in its simplest form as shown in
Figures 9 to 11, consists of a U-shaped spring blade or plate a² all mounted on the
inner face of the head A with holes through it for its central stem A² to pass
freely, and which is open as shown in Figures 10 and 11, when separate from the
inner head and stem A¹ A, of the solitaire, but when these are pressed together
the free ends of the spring clip a, a, would catch the edge end of the sleeve Z, as
shown in Figure 9; and this pressing together inight either be effected by a screw
on the stems A2, A", of the solitaire as shown in Figures 9 and 10, or it might be
a small lateral pin on the central stem A entering a bayonet slip joint on the hollow
stem A of the inner head A' as shown in Figure 9 A.
By another arrangement as shown in Figures 12 and 13, I secure this spring bladed
clip a", a², on the neck A² of the outer stem A of the stud A, A¹, a, so as to catch
the sleeve Z of the dress, by the action of a swivelling or tilting kneed lever catch a
hinged at a to the rigid part of the spring a², all, by the pressure of the heel on
the movable arm a of the clip a², a". Or as shown in Figures 14 and 15, the sleeve Z
of the dress is secured between the heel a³ of the tilting kneed lever a³, and the fixed
spring blade a when the lever a³ is pressed close or down, the sleeve Z of the dress
being released in this case by the tilting of the lever a³, with the ornamental head A
secured on it as shown dotted-in in Figures 12 and 14. And one or both of theso
catching parts at at of the clip plates a² a" may be either fitted with rubber or
corrugated with projections as shown at A to take a better, grip of the sleeve Z
of the dress. Or otherwise when a single clip plate as is used as shown in
Figures 16 and 17, mounted on an outer neck or stem a on the plate A of the
inner stem and plate A' it may be made in the form of an ornamental disc a nearly
the same diameter as the inner plate A* of the stud. In this arrangement a screw
would be formed on this neck or outer stem a, and the outer disc a, be mounted on
it to grip the dress Z between the plate A³ of the stud and this outer screwed disc a*.
Or instead of the screw a', this might be made in the form of a bayonet joint as shown
in Figure 9 A.

page_text: Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is
First. The constructing of sleeve studs or solitaires and such like dress fasteners
with hooks or clips a to a to secure ladies dress cuffs to the sleeves of the dress, or
for such like purposes, substantially as and in the manner herein described and
distinguished in reference to and shown in the several figures of the accompanying
Drawings.
Second. The application to and use in studs or solitaires of a hook, pin or clip
hinged or light spring blade or plate, tilting kneed lever catch, screw moving disc, or
equivalent device, for the purpose of securing ladies' dress cuffs to the sleeves of
the dress or for such like purposes, substantially as and in the manner herein
described and distinguished in reference to and shown in the several figures of the
accompanying Drawings.