Improvements in Bustles.
Year: 1887

page_text: Date of Application, 12th July, 1887.
Specification Accepted, 12th Aug.. 1887.
Improvements in Bustles.
I, CHARLES CLARence Carpenter, residing at No. 354 West 33rd Street, New
York City, County of New York, State of New York, United States of America,
Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement :-
The improvement relates to that class of bustles in which the dress is distended by
springs approximately horizontal extending across the back, with provisions for
widening and narrowing the back to vary the extent of projection of the bustle, and
which springs fold up out of the way when the bustle is pressed against the back of a
chair or other object. I employ springs extending across each independent of the
others except as they are tied together by a flexible connection, and provide a
tension spring on each side which acts lever-wise on the lower spring to move it
downward. My springs act freely and independently. They fold upward out of the
way with freedom when required, and resume their places promptly and perfectly
when the compressing force is removed.
The accompanying drawings form a part of this specification, and represent what I
consider the best means of carrying out the invention.
Figure 1 is a side elevation.
Fig. 2 is a central vertical section through the main portion. The strong lines in
this figure show the bustle extended; the dotted lines show it partially collapsed..
Similar letters of reference indicate corresponding parts in both the figures where
they occur.
A is the waist-band, and A¹ flaps of muslin or other suitable material. B is a
lacing connecting the two flaps and inserted through eyelets set in A³, and adapted to
serve all in the ordinary manner.
C is a tape or flexible tie extending rearward and downward from the center of the
back. D, D, are springs extending across the back in approximately horizontal
positions, connected at the rear by the tape C. These springs are independently
pivoted at each end d to an upright piece E mounted on each side. They are
independent except as they are connected by the flexible tie C.

page_text: G is a spring nearly corresponding in position and functions to the springs D.
It serves as the lowermost in the series. It is pivoted at each side not to the
upright E but at a point 9 farther backward and downward. Each pivot point g is
supported by a brace E¹ which extends obliquely downward from the corresponding
uprights E. A transverse piece E' connects the lower portion of E and E¹. The
bottom spring G is stouter than the others, and extends forward of the pivot g at
each side. H, H, are contractile or tension springs. I have in my experiments used
helical springs of small diameter, made of hard brass. The upper end is attached to
the uprights E at h. The lower end is attached to the forward end of the spring G
at . The force of these springs H pulling upward on the forward ends of G holds
the entire set of springs G, D, downward to the extent permitted by the flexible tie C.
But whenever the bustle is pressed against the back of a chair or other object, the
several springs can yield upward independently. When the lowermost spring G
alone is pressed upward, it may yield, the others all remaining in their original
places. When the spring G and one of the springs D are pressed upward, the two
may yield without the other.
J, J, are springs extending obliquely across the upper portion of the bustle and
fastened together and to the uprights E, as shown. The tape C connects and steadies
these as well as the more movable springs D and G.
My invention gives an independence of action to the springs D and G which is
highly useful.
I have in my experiments used for the springs D and G what are sometimes
known as "duplex" springs,-two flat springs of steel placed edge to edge, a little
distance apart, and connected by a covering of braid. I have made the pivots by
setting eyelets through the braid which forms the central portion of the breadth of
such springs. I have covered and protected the upright pieces E and the pivots d
by a piece of muslin folded thereon. But these points may be varied.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. As an improvement in bustles, the lowermost spring G, pivoted at g, and
extending forward beyond such pivot, in combination with tension springs H,
pulling upward on the forward ends h¹ thereof, and with the springs D connected
by the flexible tie C, all arranged for joint operation, substantially as herein
specified.
2. In a bustle, the waist-band A, flaps A¹, lacing B, side-pieces E, E¹, and upper
springs J, in combination with each other and with the lowermost spring G,
pivoted at 9, and extending forward beyond such pivot, the extension being
connected at the forward ends to tension springs H, and the flexibly connected
springs D, pivoted at d, all arranged for joint operation substantially as herein
specified.