IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF DOUBLE FABRICS
Year: 1866

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to John Patterson, of the City of Manchester, Merchant,
for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF DOUBLE
FABRICS."
Sealed the 14th September 1866, and dated the 7th April 1866.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said John Patterson at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
7th April 1866.
I, JOHN PATTERSON, of the City of Manchester, Merchant, do hereby declare
the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE
OF DOUBLE FABRICS," to be as follows:-
In the manufacture of double fabrics it has heretofore been customary to
unite the two fabrics by means of the warp threads; now my Invention
consists in uniting double fabrics by the weft threads, which weft threads when
cut to separate the two parts of the double fabric form the pile on two
separate fabrics. Some of the principal advantages resulting from this
improved mode of manufacturing double fabrics are as follows:-The first is
due to the fact that warp threads must be more stiffened and twisted than
weft threads, and consequently a pile produced by the warp is not so soft and
lustrous and does not fill up or cover as well as a pile of weft; secondly, the
crowding of the warps through the healds and reed is also avoided; and,
thirdly, no race for the ordinary cutting knife is required, hence each warp
thread may carry its own pile weft and thus produce a closer piled surface. In

page_text: performing my Invention I alternate the weft pile threads from the upper to
the under warp, and vice versa, floating them over and under two or more
threads of the respective warps, and binding them with the third or next corre-
sponding threads according to the length of pile required; each of the warps is
provided with the usual binding weft. The pile weft threads form diagonal
lines between the two fabrics. When the double fabric is woven, the pile
wefts are cut by the improved machinery described in the Provisional Speci-
fication of Letters Patent applied for by me on the Thirteenth day of February
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-six, No. 446, or in any other con-
venient manner, and the pile wefts which are all of equal length are then
raised, dressed, and finished by any of the well-known operations.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said John Patterson in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
5th October 1866.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JOHN
PATTERSON, of the City of Manchester, Merchant, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Seventh day of April, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and sixty-six, in the twenty-ninth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the
said John Patterson, Her special license that I, the said John Patterson, my
executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said John
Patterson, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the
term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel
Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE
OF DOUBLE FABRICS," upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said John
Patterson, my executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under
my, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe
and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the
same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great.
Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately after
the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said John Patterson, do hereby declare
the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-

page_text: formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement (that is to say):-
In the manufacture of double fabrics, it has heretofore been customary to
unite for a time the two fabrics by means of the warp. threads; now my
Invention consists in uniting double fabrics woven face to face by the weft
threads, which weft threads when cut to separate the two parts of the double:
fabric form the pile on two separate fabrics. The pile wefts are cut by the
improved machinery described in the Specification of Letters Patent granted
to me on the Thirteenth day of February, One thousand eight hundred and
sixty-six, Number 466, or in any other convenient manner, and the pile wefts,
which are or may be all of equal length; are then raised, dressed, and.
finished by any of the well-known operations.
And in order that my Invention may be fully understood and readily carried
into operation I will proceed to describe the various diagrams on the two
accompanying Sheets of Drawings.
. The looms in which my improved fabrics are woven are similar to those
generally employed in the manufacture of velvets and velveteens.
On Sheet 1 the diagrams marked Figures 1 and 2 represent sections of the
upper and lower margins magnified; these margins are portions of cloth
without interlacing weft threads which are woven at each side of the double
fabric, as in ordinary velvets.
In Figure 1 is shewn how the sheds are opened to receive the weft and
produce the non-interlacing margins on the upper and under cloths. The
first shed for the passage of weft thread number 1 is opened out by raising
all the upper uneven numbered warp threads numbers 1 to 23, also raising
every sixth under warp thread, numbers 12 and 24, and lowering the remain-
ing under warp threads, numbers 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 14, 16, 18, 20, and 22
and so on in succession as far as is needed for the breadth of margin. The
second shed for the passage of number 2 weft thread is opened out by raising
every sixth upper warp thread, numbers 11 and 23, and lowering the remain-
ing upper warp threads, numbers 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 13, 15, 17, 19, and 21, and
also lowering all the under warp threads, as shewn by the even numbers, and
so on in succession as far as may be needed for the breadth of margin. The
third shed for the passage of number 3 weft thread is opened out by raising all
the upper uneven numbered warp threads, numbers 1 to 23, also raising every
sixth under warp thread, numbers 4 and 16, and lowering the remaining under
warp threads, numbers 2, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 18, 20, 22, and 24, and so on in
succession as far as may be needed for the breadth of margin. The remaining
floating wefts up to number 6 are put in as shewn in Figure 1. The binding.

page_text: wefts 7 and 8, as shewn at Figure 2, are then thrown in to be followed by the
pile wefts numbers 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, and 14, as shewn in Figure 1, and then
the binding wefts, numbers 15 and 16, as shewn in Figure 2, are thrown in to
complete the round.
:
The diagram, Figure 3, represents the draught and tie-up for producing
the non-interlacing margins above referred to on a double fabric. The hori-
zontal lines marked from 1 to 24 indicate the warp threads, the even numbers.
represent the lower warp threads, and the uneven numbers represent the
upper warp threads. These warp threads are raised and lowered to form the
requisite sheds by means of twenty-four healds; the vertical lines marked from
1.to.16 at the top of the Diagram indicate the weft threads. The rising healds
are indicated by the short diagonal lines at the intersections of the warp and
weft threads, whereas the sinkers are left without such intersections, and the
drawing-in into the healds is carried on from the left side to the right in the`
ordinary manner, as is well understood by practical power-loom weavers.
The horizontal row of figures from 1 to 16 at the foot of the Diagram
indicates the order of succession in which the treadles are worked.
The Diagrams marked Figures 4 and 5 represent magnified sections of a
double fabric for producing simultaneously two six-leafed tabby velvets, the
pile of each of which is produced by cutting the interlacing or pile weft
threads; in this velvet every warp thread carries a pile weft thread. Figure 6.
is the draught and tie-up for weaving the double fabric shewn in Figures
4 and 5.
On referring to Figure 4 it will be seen that the interlacing or pile weft
thread number 1 after passing under number 12 warp thread of the lower
warp passes diagonally to and over number 23 warp thread of the upper
warp, passing over all the other even numbers and under all the other uneven
numbers, while the following pile weft number 2 passes over number 11 warp
thread to and under number 24 warp thread, passing over all the other even
numbered warp threads, and under all the other uneven numbered warp threads,
the third, fourth, fifth, and sixth pile weft threads following in similar suc-
cession; after these six shoots of the pile weft it is requisite to give two shoots.
of binding weft, as shewn in Figure 2; number 7 binding weft thread while
passing under all the uneven numbered upper warp threads under numbers
2, 6, 10, 14, 18, and 22, and over the intermediate under warp threads
numbers 4, 8, 12, 16, 20, and 24, and so on in succession; the next binding.
weft number 8 while passing over all the even numbered under warp threads
passes over numbers 3, 7, 11, 15, 19, and 23, and under numbers 1, 5, 9,
13, 17, and 21 upper warp threads. The Diagram, Figure 5, shews how the

page_text: pile weft thread, number 9, passes under the warp thread number 10 and over
number 21 warp thread; also over all the other even numbers and under all the
other uneven numbers. The pile weft threads numbers 10, 11, 12, 13, and 14
follow in the same succession; the binding weft threads numbers 15 and 16
then follow, as shewn in Figure 2. By thus interlacing the pile weft with the
upper and under warps, and vice versa, and by floating them over and under
two or more threads of their respective warps, the said warps are united by
the pile wefts in diagonal lines, which intersect each other in the centre, con-
sequently when the pile weft threads are severed by the cutting knife, as shewn
by the dotted lines in Figures 4 and 5, each portion of the double fabric has
a.pile of uniform length on its face; but if it should be desirable to produce
pile of different lengths on the two pieces, the cutting must be effected above
or below the centre. In Figure 6 the vertical row of figures 1 to 24 indicate
the order of succession in which the warp threads are drawn through the twenty-
four healds; the horizontal figures with crosses over them marked from 1* to 4*
indicate the treading or succession in which the warps are raised and lowered,
and the weft thrown across the shed to produce a certain length of two
non-interlacing fabrics at each end of the piece of double fabric; these non-
interlacing portions enable the knife to enter, and they are drawn through the
guide rails or between the guide rollers of the cutting machine, and secured
to the drawing-forward rollers. The horizontal row of figures marked from
1 to 16 at the foot of the Diagram, beginning at the right hand, indicate the
succession in which the treading tappets are to be worked, in order to loop or
make sound the selvages on both fabrics when severed. The vertical double
row of figures marked from 1 to 24* indicate the draught for producing the
non-interlacing margin referred to in Figures 1, 2, and 3.
The Diagram, Figure 7, represents a draught and tie-up for weaving a
double fabric with every alternate warp thread carrying a pile weft thread,
and this double fabric when cut forms two six-leafed tabby velvets. The hori-
zontal figures from 1 to 4* indicate the treading to weave the separate ends
of each piece of the double fabric, as before described, for the entrance of the
cutting knife. The horizontal row of figures, from 1 to 16, at the foot of
the Diagram indicate the succession of treading for making the selvages; the
vertical row of figures from 1 to 24 indicate the draught as above described,
and the double row of vertical figures marked 1 to 24* indicate the draught
for producing the non-interlacing margin referred to in Figures 1, 2, and 3.
Figure 8 represents a draught and tie-up for weaving the non-interlacing
margin of a double fabric with thirty-two healds. The horizontal row of figures
from 1 to 20 at the foot of the Diagram indicates the order of succession in

page_text: which the treadles are worked. In this Diagram the wefts are thrown in, as
described in reference to Figure 1, but instead of floating over and under five
intervening warp threads they are made to float over and under seven inter-
vening warp threads, and after eight floating wefts have been thrown in, two
binding wefts are put in, as shewa and described in reference to Figure 2.
.
Figures 9, 10, and 11 represent three magnified sections of a double fabric
with interlacing or pile weft threads for producing two eight-leafed tabby:
velvets, each warp thread of which carries a pile weft. In Figure 9 it will
be seen that the pile weft number 1 passes over number 1 warp: thread, it
then passes diagonally to and under number 18 warp thread; the pile weft
number 2 passes under number 2 warp thread, and from thence diagonallý to
and over number 17 warp thread. The pile weft number 3 passes over
number 5 warp thread, from which it goes diagonally to and under number
22 warp thread. The pile weft number 4 passes under number 6 warp
thread and then over number 21 warp thread; the pile weft number 5 passes
over number 9 warp thread and under number 26 warp thread; the pile weft
number 6 passes under number 10 warp thread and over number 25 warp
thread; the pile wefts numbers 7 and 8 pass over and under the warp threads
numbers 13 and 14, from which they go respectively under and over the warp
threads numbers 30 and 29; the two binding wefts numbers 9 and 10, see
Figure 10, are then thrown in to secure the eight floating pile wefts. The
eight succeeding pile wefts marked numbers 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17,
and 18, see Figure 11; are then thrown in, and they are followed by two
binding wefts marked .19 and 20, as shewn in Figure 10, thereby completing
the round. The pile wefts intersect each other in the centre of their. length;
as shewn by the dotted horizontal lines in Figures 9 and 11, and consequently
when severed by the cutting knife a pile of equal length is produced on each
piece of tabby velvet; or unequal length of pile may be produced on the
respective fabrics by cutting above or below the centre, as above described.
The Diagram, Figure; 12, represents a draught and tie-up for weaving the
eight-leafed tabby velvet shewn and described in reference to Figures 9, 10,
and 11. The horizontal row of figures from 1 to 20 at the foot of the Diagram
indicate the order of succession in which the treadles are worked to make the
selvages; and the horizontal figures from 1 to 4* represent the treading for
producing the non-interlacing portions of fabric at each end of the double
fabric for entering the cutting knife. The vertical row of figures from 1 to 32
represent the order of succession in which the warp threads are drawn into the
thirty-two healds; and the vertical double row of figures from 1 to 32* indicate
the draught for producing the margin at each side of the respective fabrics..:

page_text: On Sheet 2, Figure 13, is a draught and tie-up-for weaving a double fabric
with interlacing weft threads; this double fabric when the pile wefts are cut
asunder forms two eight-leafed tabby velvets, each alternate warp. thread
carrying a pile weft. The vertical row of figures marked from 1 to 32 repre-
sent the draught of the healds; the vertical double row marked from 1* to 32*
represent the draught and healds employed in weaving the narrow margin at
each side of the fabric. The horizontal row of figures from 1 to 20 at the
foot of the Diagram indicate the order of succession in which the treadles are
worked to produce the selvages, and the horizontal figures from 1* to 4*
represent the treading to weave the non-interlacing portions of cloth at each
end of the double fabric to admit the cutting instrument. The Diagrams,
Figures 10 and 11, shew this double fabric in section.
Figure 14 is a draught and tie-up for weaving the margins or non-interlacing
portions of a double fabric which when the pile wefts are cut forms two six-
leafed velveteens. The horizontal row of figures from 1 to 18 at the foot of
the Diagram indicate the order of succession in which the treadles are worked
to form the selvages.
Figures 15 and 16 are two sections magnified of a double fabric suitable for
producing two pieces of six-leafed velveteens, every warp thread carrying a
pile weft. In weaving this double fabric I commence with number 1 binding
weft thread, see Figure 16, which passes over number 1 warp thread of the
upper warp, then under number 3 warp thread, then floating over numbers 5
and 7 warp threads, then under number 9, and floating over the two suc-
ceeding warp threads, and so on throughout the width of the fabric; number 2
binding weft passes under number 2 warp thread of the lower warp over num-
ber 4 warp thread, floating under numbers 6 and 8 warp threads and over
number 10 warp thread, and so on throughout the width of the fabric; num.
ber 3 is a pile weft and passes over number 9 warp thread, see Figure 15,
from which it passes diagonally to and under number 22 warp thread; num-
ber 4 pile weft passes under number 10 warp thread and passes diagonally to
and over number-21 warp thread; number 5 pile weft passes over number 8
warp thread to and under number 16 warp thread; number 7 is a binding weft
which floats over numbers 1 and 8 warp threads and passes under number 5
warp thread, see Figure 16, floats over numbers 7 and 9 and passes under
number 11 warp thread, and so on in the same succession across the shed;
and number 8 being also a binding weft passes under numbers 2 and 4
warp threads, over number. 6 warp thread, under numbers 8 and 10, and
over number 12 warp threads, and so on across the shed; the pile weft
:

page_text: number 9 passes over number 11 warp thread, and thence diagonally to and under
number 24 warp thread; number 10 pile weft passes under number 12 warp
thread and then over number 23 warp thread; number 11 pile weft passes
Qver number 5 warp thread and then under number 18 warp thread, while
number 12 pile weft passes under number 6 warp thread and over number 17
warp thread; the binding wefts, numbers 18 and 14, are then thrown in, as
shewn in Figure 16, and are followed by the pile wefts; numbers 15, 16, 17,
and 18, as shewn in Figure 15, which completes the round.
Figure 17 represents a draught and tie-up for weaving a double fabric
with interlacing pile weft threads, suitable for six-leafed velveteens, and with
every warp thread carrying a pile weft. The vertical row of Figures from 1 to
24 represents the draught and the treadles, and the double vertical row of figures
from 1 to 24 represents the draught and healds to produce the margin.
The horizontal row of figures from 1 to 18 at the foot of the Diagram
indicates the treading for making the selvages; and the horizontal row of
figures from 1 to 6* represents the treading to produce the short lengths of
separate cloth at each end of the double fabric for the knife to enter.
Figures 18 and 19 are sections magnified of a double fabric with inter-
lacing pile wefts for six-leafed velveteens, each alternate warp thread carrying
a pile weft. In Figure 19 number 1 binding weft passes over number 1 warp
thread and under number 3 warp thread, then it floats over numbers 5 and 7
and under number 9 warp thread, and so on over two and under the third
warp threads across the fabric; number 2 binding weft passes under number
2 warp thread, over number 4 warp thread, then under numbers 6 and 8,
and over number 10 warp threads, and so on in the same succession across the
shed number 3 pile weft thread, passes over number 9 warp thread, and then
passes diagonally to and under number 22 warp thread. Number 4 pile
weft thread passes under number 10 warp thread, thence diagonally to and
over number 21 warp thread; number 5 pile weft thread passes over num-
ber 1 warp thread and under number 14 warp thread; number 6 pile weft
passes under number 2 warp thread to number 13 warp thread; numbers 7
and 8 are binding wefts, as shewn in Figure 19; numbers 11 and 12 are pile
wefts, as shewn in Figure 18; numbers 13 and 14 are again binding wefts,
and the pile wefts numbers 15, 16, 17, and 18 are then thrown in, as shewn
in Figure 18, to complete the round.
Figure 20 represents a draught and tie-up for weaving the six-leafed
velveteen, shewn in section in Figures 18 and 19; the vertical and horizontal
rows of figures indicate the healds and treadles, as before described. The

page_text: horizontal rows of figures at the tops of the Diagrains, Figures 3, 6, 7, 8, 12, 13,
14, 17, and 20 correspond with the weft figures on the sectional Diagrams,
Figures 1, 2, 4, 5, 9, 10, 11, 15, 16, 18, and 19.
The draughts and tie-ups herein-before described are merely given as illus-
trations of my improved mode of weaving double fabrics with interlacing pile
weft threads, and with the ends and margins of separate or non-interlacing
portions of fabric, thereby producing simultaneously two fabrics that are
united for a time in the centre by the pile weft threads. The weft pile of
these fabrics may be carried by every warp thread, or by each alternate warp
thread, or by fewer warp threads if required. I wish to observe that when'
different weft threads are employed for the pile and for the binding it is
desirable to employ a loom with a two or more shuttle drop-box; by this
arrangement the pile wefts may be of silk or other expensive material, while
the binding wefts are of cotton or other less expensive or stronger material.
As it may
sometimes be requisite to start the cutting knife in the middle of
a piece of double fabric; instead of at the end, which, as before described, is'
provided with separate portions of fabric for the entrance of the cutting knife.
I propose, when such is the case, to cut the piece straight across at right
angles to the selvages, and to unravel a portion of weft threads out of each
warp, and then to glue or cement short pieces of calico or cloth to the ends of
the fabric, extending a few inches beyond the edges so unravelled; these
pieces of calico or cloth are then drawn between the guides or rollers, and
secured to the drawing rollers, as before described; by this means the warp
threads of the respective fabrics are drawn apart to admit the cutting
instrument.
I would also remark, that my improved double fabrics may be woven in
jacquard looms, instead of the looms with treadles, as described; it is also
evident that the length of pile may be varied to any extent within reasonable
limits, by increasing the number of warps between which the interlacing wefts
traverse.
I have described fabrics having the pile weft threads floating over
five and interwoven with the sixth warp thread, and also floating over seven
and interwoven with the eighth warp thread, but similar fabrics may be
woven with the weft floating over a greater or less number of warp threads,
and interwoven with one or more warp threads, or the pile weft may float
over five or other number of warp threads, as shewn in Figure 21; then
interweaving alternately with the next three warp threads, then passing
diagonally over five or other number of warp threads, and again interweaving
:

page_text: with the next three warp threads of the opposite warp, so as to form a fast
pile.
Some of the principal advantages resulting from this improved mode of
manufacturing double fabrics are as follows:-The first is due to the fact that
warp threads must be more stiffened and twisted than weft threads, and con-
sequently a pile produced by the warp is not so soft and lustrous, and does not
fill up or cover as well as a pile of weft; secondly, the crowding of the warp
threads through the healds and reed is also avoided ; and, thirdly, no race for
the ordinary cutting, knife is required, hence each warp thread may carry its.
own pile weft, and thus produces a closer pile surface.
Having thus stated the nature of my Invention, and described several
modes of carrying the same into operation, I wish to observe that I do not
limit myself to the details given, as they may be considerably varied or
modified; but what I do claim is,―
First, weaving two cloths simultaneously face to face, or a double fabric
with the pile wefts interlacing each other diagonally, and forming the pile on
each when cut.
Secondly, I claim the improved double fabric described, in which every warp
thread carries a pile weft.
2
In witness whereof, I, the said John Patterson, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Fourth day of October, One thousand eight hundred.
and sixty-six.
JOHN PATTERSON. (L.S.)