Improvements in or relating to Boots, Shoes, and Slippers.
Year: 1898

page_text: Improvements in or relating to Boots, Shoes, and Slippers.
FREDERICK WILLIAM FARR, Boot Manufacturer, 16, Mentmore Terrace, London
Fields, NE, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
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This invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of boots, shoes, &
slippers, all of which are hereinafter included in the term
shoe "
Ite object
being to provide a new method of making shoes more flexible, stronger and lighter
in substance & weight. In turn shoes, I connect to the upper by stitching or to
the sole by a suitable solution a welt which is lasted & sewn and fair stitched after
turning. Or a welt may be laid in position for fairstitching after it has been
turned, said welt being fairstitched to the sole, or the sole only may be fairstatched
in the same manner, without a welt being laid in. Or a welt may be fairstitched
first, then connected with say rubber solution, the shoe 18 sewn and turned
producing an imitation fair stitched welt. Or a welt may be connected in any
suitable manner to the sewing stitches, which after turning are bare and easily
used for such connection. Or I tack to the last, a sole, with a welt on it.
upper is lasted over and sewn-if for heavier shoe there may be two sewings.
1st. The upper to the welt. 2nd The welt to the sole, or if for a lighter shoe,
where such as a piece of Persian or light welt is used, the three substances may be
stitched at once. The welt may be braced over before or after it is turned, or a
thin middle may be connected to the welt to keep the shoe from spreading in wear.
(The latter being a turn shoe which can have the sole ripped and repaired without
interfering with the build of the shoe.) The shoe after turning is fair stitched.
The
In order to make a more flexible welted shoe (where an innersole is used) instead
of sewing the welt entirely to the innersole I sew part only to the same where it
is required to gain flexibility, for example say from the joint to the toe where
flexibility is mostly required-I sew the welt and upper only together say 2 or 3
stitches I then pick up the innersole at the next stitch and so on The stitches
where the innersole is not connected I brace or in any convenient manner connect
the welts together to make the same solid and at the same time not to lose the
flexibility we get by the present improvement, or a middle or filling cut to shape
could be placed in position and the welt stitched and drawn together to said
filling or middle. The toe and waist may be sewn entirely to the innersole if
disired or in some cases they may be made flexible also I do not bind myself
to pick up or to drop any particular number of stitches this can be varied accord-
ing to the class of work in hand
In McKay or ordinary machine sewn shoes I produce a lighter fair stitched
shoe than has hitherto been done. I give the following as examples: A welt is
stuck to the sole by a suitable solution and fairstitched after the shoe is made.
Or the sole only which may be prepared on the flesh side by colouring or the like
may be fairstitched after it is made. Or a welt may be laid in position after the
shoe is made and then fairstitched. Or a welt may be fairstitched to the sole
before it is made. Or the sole only without a welt may be fairstitched before it
is made. Either one or two channels may be used for the 2 stitchings or they
may both be on the surface.

page_text: In order to make the shoe lighter I reduce the weight of the heels by dilling,
stamping or in any convenient manner making a hole or holes of desued shapes
through the heel preferably after it has been built, altho each lift could be treated
separately part or all of the recess may if desired be filled with a composition of
cork and solution. I also use a similar composition for filling the bottoms which
produces a light, solid, yet flexible bottom. Generally (altho not absolutely
necessary) I make the waist fum by putting a good shank held by dextune or the
like.
Where it is necessary to increase the wearing properties of the soles and top-
pieces, instead of using brads steel points, or the like I dispense with these and
stamp or otherwise form holes or perforations in them and fill same with any
suitable material such as say a composition of a solution of rubber and sand, steel
dust, glass dust, or any hard wearing fine or coarse material which can be pressed
into the holes for wearing purposes. Rust and decay of the leather is prevented
and the sole is more flexible.
A special feature in the present improvements is the successful application of
very light and soft welts, altho' as thin as paper- -which is gained by means of
waterproofing same-before it is subjected to water used in course of making the
shoe When the welts in either case are stitched to the soles which may be done
by any known method of stitching or imitation stitching before the shoes are made
I dip or apply waterproofing to the edges of the sole and the welt which specially
causes the needle holes to be filled with the wax thereby waterproofing the edges
and waxing the whole of the stitching and making samme solid In all cases in
the foregoing where the term welt is used I wish it to be understood that a
runner or clump may be used in its stead during manufacture
December 28th 1898
wwwwwwLD.
FREDERICK WILLIAM FARR (late Boot Manufacturer, 16, Mentmore Terrace,
London Fields, London, E.,) care of Mr J Power, 129, Victoria Park Road,
London, E, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement -
This invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of boots shoes and
slippers all of which are hereinafter included in the term "
shoe " Its object
being to provide a new method of making shoes more flexible stronger, and lighter
in substance and weight In order to make a more flexible welted shoe instead
of sewing the welt entirely to the insole, I sew part only to same Where it 18
required to gain flexibility, for example say at the bend of the foot in forepart
where in ordinary walking boots & shoes flexibility for the natural action of the
foot is required. I sew welt and upper only together, say one or more stitches
then I pick up the innersole at the next stitch and so on, the stitches where the
innersole is not connected I brace in any convenient manner, or connect the welts
together to make same solid, to stop the shoe from spreading in wear and at
same time not to lose the flexibility obtained by the present improvement, or a
middle or filling 18 cut to shape and braced to the welt where required.
In McKay on ordinary machine sewn shoes I produce a lighter fair stitch'd shoe
than has hitherto been done, a welt 18 stuck to the sole by a suitablo solution, same
is waterproofed and after the shoe is made and sewn it is fairstitched.

page_text: In order to make the shoe lighter, I reduce the weight of the heels by drilling
or stamping a hole or holes of any desired shape through the heels preferably
after it has been built by machine, altho' each lift may be treated separately
Where it is necessary to increase the wearing properties of the sole and toppiece
instead of using brads, steel points or the like I dispense with these, and stamp or
otherwise form holes or perforations in them and fill same with a suitable com-
position of say rubber solution and sand, steel dust glass dust or other hard wearing
material fine or coarse which can be pressed into the holes for wearing purposes-
and the soles are perfectly flexible which is impossible in a nailed bottom.
In the accompanying drawings, Fig. 1, 18 a view of a shoe, lasted with a welt
sewn in, showing the application of the new method of welt sewing. The flexi-
bility being provided for at the bend of the foot. Referring to drawing, A
represents the welt, B the stitches on the welt C the stitches where the insole has
been picked up in the ordinary way of sewing. X represents the places on the
insole where said insole is not sewn to, (as it is at C) D is the bracing stitches catch-
ing bold of either welt or upper or both, and D 18 the same bracing stitches
catching hold of the insole in a position deviating from the ordinary line of
sewing (as at C) E represents the position where flexibility is required for the
natural action of the foot in walking. The bracing may be done by any known
method, such as the bracing thread to draw one side of the welt to the other,
without picking up the insole, or a piece of leather cut to shape of a filling &
braced to the welt Each side the above principle of welt sewing may be adopted
in all or any part of the shoe, for example ceitain athletic shoes would require
a flexible waist and a firm forepart the sewing would in this case be vice versa :"
as compared with the drawing. Fig 2 18 a view of a shoe, having a light sole
with a light welt stuck to the flesh side before the sole is put on I stick the
welt F on to the sole with a suitable solution, preferably rubber solution. The
welt when on 18 water proof'd consequently a welt as thin as paper and from the
softest material, such as ordinary Persian leather, may be used for a welt the
result being a fair stitched shoe, lighter in weight and substance, than has hitherto
been accomplished in a fair stitched shoe Fig 3 is a view of a sole and Fig 4
of a toppiece having perforations G made in them I mix up a composition of
such as rubber solution with a hard wearing substance such as fine gravel, sand,
glass dust, steel dust or the like The wearing properties being equal to that of
steel points, but instead of the shoe being stiff and unbendable as with steel
points a shoe with the new composition 18 more flexible than the sole without the
perforations
Fig 5 is one view of heel and Fig 6 another view showing same with holes H
drilled or stamped, thus reducing the weight of same considerably.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is..
1. Improvements in or relating to boots and shoes having for its object the
means used to produce a flexibility in welted shoes in any desired part of same
according to the peculiar requirements of the shoe being made substantially as
specified..
2 The means used to produce a flexibility in welted shoes in any desired part of
same according to the peculiar requirements of the same being made, said welt
sewing deviating from the ordinary method, that is by sewing welt and upper
in a uniform line but of an inegular character as regards sewing same to the
innersole, substantially as specified
3 Improvements in or relating to boots and shoes the means used to produce a
flexibility and solidity in welted shoes, by the sewing to the insole being of an
irregular character, and deviating from the ordinary method of welt sewing. The
upper welt and insole being sewn together, but at intervals, the connections to
the insole is missed at one or more stitches according to the flexibility required

page_text: and when said stitches on insole are missed as at X, 'bracing stitches are used
to make welt perfectly solid and flexible
th
7*1*
4 Improvements in or relating to boots and shoes consisting in making excep-
tionally light fair stitch'd shoes by sticking light soft welts by a rubber or
similar solution on to the sole and waterproofing same-the shoe being fair
stitched after sewing
1
5 Improvements in or relating to boots and shoes the means used to reduce the
weight of heels by drilling or stamping holes in same substantially as specified""
6. Improvements in or relating to boots and shoes consisting in stamping
out or perforating soles and toppieces and filling same with a composition having a
hard wearing material mixed with a waterproof such as rubber solution sub-
stantially as specified
Dated this 28th day of September 1899.