AN ÎMPROVED APPARATUS FOR FACILITATING THE MEASURING AND CUTTING AN IMPROVED APPARATUS FOR FACILITATING OUT OF CLOTH OR OTHER MATERIAL
Year: 1880

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Robert Lake, of the Firm of Haseltine, Lake,.
& Co., Patent Agents, Southampton Buildings, London, for an Invention of
"AN ÎMPROVED APPARATUS FOR FACILITATING THE MEASURING AND CUTTING
AN IMPROVED APPARATUS FOR FACILITATING
OUT OF CLOTH OR OTHER MATERIAL."
François Fabre, of Paris, France.
THE ALBAN
A communication from abroad by
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Williain Robert Lake at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 26th June 1880.
WILLIAM ROBERT LAKE, of the Firm of Haseltine, Lake, & Co., Patent
"AN IMPROVED APPARATUS FOR
Agents, Southampton Buildings, London.
FACILITATING THE MEASURING AND CUTTING OUT OF CLOTH OR OTHER MATERIAL."
[A communication from abroad by François Fabre, of Paris, France.]
This Invention relates to an apparatus for facilitating the cutting out of cloth or
the like in the desired shape to form coats or other garments, that is to say, the
said apparatus is designed to indicate or shew the required configuration of the
separate parts so that they may be accurately cut according to the measurement
of the person for whom the garment is to be made, or according to any required
measurement.
I will now proceed to describe the said Invention with reference to the accom-
panying Drawings.
The said apparatus comprises two distinct parts, namely, the one shewn in
Figure 1, which is designed chiefly for use in marking out or indicating the shape
of the part of the garment called the front or breast portion, and the one shewn in
Figure 2, which is for the back and side portions. Each of these distinct parts of
the apparatus is provided with a fixed piece X or Z made of steel or copper serving
as a frame or support. I adapt to these fixed pieces moveable pieces made of
copper, which being capable of moving in any desired direction determine by or at
their ends the outline or form of the portion of the garment required to be
indicated. These moveable pieces are arranged to be fixed by means of steel
screws, and to be moved by means of copper studs. Some of these moveable

page_text: pieces, namely, C, D, E, G, V (by means of figures corresponding with the
dimensions of different persons), and others, namely, A, B, H, J, X, Q, L, M, N, Y,
O, P, Z (by means of the same figures and by means of metrical graduations), serve
to control the measurement given at the points produced, that is to say, the ends.
of the pieces indicate the contour, and the moving of the said pieces to the desired
points regulated by means of the graduations or figures thereon.
In Figure 1, K represents the arm-hole of a coat. The configuration for the
same is obtained by two movements, one for the length or depth, and the other for
the width or breadth. The first movement is effected by unfastening the screw
No. 1, which leaves the piece Q free, which is moved by means of the stud 2.
The second movement is effected by means of the piece J, which slides on the
piece Q. No fastening screw is required, but the piece is moved by means of the
stud No. 3.
For the end of the shoulder at the arm-hole one horizontal movement only is
necessary, and for this the screw 4 is unfastened, and the piece A is caused to slide
on the piece X, the stud 5 being used for moving it.
For the neck end of the shoulder two movements are necessary. The first is an
upward and downward movement of the piece B, which slides in the piece T. 6 is
the fastening screw, and 7 the operating stud. The second movement is a forward
and backward one of the piece T, which sliding on the piece X draws the piece B;
there is no stop screw. The stud for this operation is the one marked 29.*
For the breast part at the centre of the neck a single horizontal movement of
the piece C is required, this piece sliding in the piece X. No. 8 is the fastening
screw, and No. 9 the operating stud.
For the central chest portion two movements are required, namely, a horizontal
movement of the piece D, which slides in the piece U. (The fastening screw is
shewn at 10 and the stud at 11). The second movement is effected by the piece U,
which moves upward and downward, sliding on the frame and drawing the
piece D in the desired direction. 12 is the fastening screw, but there is no
stud.
For the front portion at the waist a single horizontal movement of the piece E
situated in the piece V is sufficient. 13 is the fastening screw, and 14 the
operating stud.
For the lower portion, where the seam is to be made, a single movement of the
piece F is necessary. By means of the said piece this seam-portion may be inclined
or taken up at will. The piece F is secured by means of a slotted piece W and
the fastening screw 17.
The place of the side seam is determined by means of the graduations marked on
the piece V, which serves as a base-line, all the other pieces being arranged parallel
with or at a right angle to it.
H, h, h, are rods supporting the pieces V, E, F. These rods slide on the frame,
and provide means for lowering the pieces V, E, F, according to the dimensions of
different persons.
The division at I, between the front and the side at the arm-hole, is determined
by the small notches shewn in the Drawing.
For the end of the back piece at the arm-hole I make use of the graduations
shewn at J, which correspond to the dimensions under the arms. The metrical
scale here indicates, as an exception, the height of this part on the piece Q, and
not its distance from the end of the piece. The movements of the first part of my
improved apparatus terminate here. In order to know the positions which each
piece should occupy it is only required to stop them as soon as the figure corre-
sponding to half the actual dimensions appears. In this case it will be seen that
the Figures 44 appear for the upper pieces, and 38 for the lower ones.
The figure
opposite on the metrical scale will in all cases indicate the distance from the end
of the piece to this point. All the movements being operated as above described
the contour of the part to be cut out will be clearly indicated.
The other portion of my improved apparatus represented in Figure 2 is partly in

page_text: the form of a square or right angled piece, as shown. This piece should be placed
in such a manner as to form a continuation of the picce V in the front or first
portion of the apparatus, and will thus be completely level or parallel with the said
front or first portion.
For the ends of the side pieces of the garment at the waist two movements aro
necessary, the first being upward to allow of placing the pieces L, M, as a con-
tinuation of the seam part at F in Figure 1, the second being a horizontal
movement of the two pieces l, m, which change these two points in any direction
desired. 19 and 21 are the fastening screws, and 20 and 22 are the operating
studs.
For the width of the bottom of the waist-pieces one movement only is required,
which is effected by causing the part Y to pass to the figure corresponding to the
measurement taken at the waist N. This movement is invariable.
O is a rod indicating the width of the back pieces. This rod serves to determine
the actual place which this second portion of the apparatus should occupy with
regard to the first portion. The end of the piece O should always be against the
arm-hole, care being taken that the angle piece Z, Z, forms a continuation of the
piece V of the front portion of the apparatus. The position of the piece V should
be marked with chalk. The piece O has two movements, the first giving the
length of the back pieces by causing the piece to slide in the part S. 24 is the
operating stud The second movement is made by the piece S, which slides upon
the piece Z, and permits of the piece O being always brought to the arm-hole,
against the edge of which it should rest.
For the width and height of the backs at the neck and shoulders two movements
are required. The first is horizontal, and gives the width of the collar. It is
effected by causing the pieco P to slide in the part R. 26 is the fastening screw,
and 27 the moving stud. The second movement is that of the part R, which
sliding on the piece Z draws the latter. The upper extremity has no fixed base,
depending completely on the length of waist of the person, and being based upon
the height of the parts B and U of the front portion, which may be known by
adding to the metrical figure at H the one in front of the notch of the line or
piece A. If the parts are thus placed and secured the contour of the back and
side pieces will be clearly indicated.
The said apparatus may be employed for the garments of women and children as
well as for those of men.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said William Robert Lake in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
24th December 1880.
WILLIAM ROBERT LAKE, of the Firm of Haseltine, Lake, & Co., Patent
Agents,, Southampton Buildings, London. "AN IMPROVED APPARATUS FOR
FACILITATING THE MEASURING AND CUTTING OUT OF CLOTH OR OTHER MATERIAL."
A communication from abroad by François Fabre, of Paris, France.
This Invention relates to an apparatus for facilitating the cutting out of cloth or
the like to the desired shape to forin coats or other garments, that is to say, the
said apparatus is designed to indicate or shew the required configuration of the
separate parts so that they may be accurately cut according to the measurement
of the person for whom the garment is to be made, or according to any required
measurement.
I will now proceed to describe the said Invention with reference to the accom-
panying Drawing.
The said apparatus consists of two distinct parts, namely, the one shewn in
Figure 1, which is designed chiefly for use in marking out or indicating the shape
of the part of the garment called the front or breast portion, and the one shewn in
Figure 2, which is for the back and side portions. Each of these distinct parts of
the apparatus is provided with a fixed piece X or Z made of steel, copper, or other
metal serving as a frame or support. I adapt to these fixed pieces movable pieces
made of copper or other metal, which being capable of moving in any desired
direction determine by or at their ends the outline or form of the portion of the
garment required to be indicated. These movable pieces are arranged to be fixed
by means of steel screws, and to be moved by means of studs of copper or other
metal. Some of these pieces, namely, C, D, E, G, V (by means of figures corre-
sponding with the dimensions of different persons), and others, namely, A, B, H, J,
X, Q, L, M, N, Y, O, P, Z (by means of the same figures and by means of metrical
graduations), serve to control the measurement given at all the points produced,
that is to say, the ends of the pieces indicate the contour, and the moving of the
said pieces to the desired points is regulated by means of the graduations or figures
thereon.
In Figure 1, K represents the arm-hole of a coat. The configuration for the
same is obtained by two movements, one for the length or depth, and the other for
the width or breadth. The first movement is effected by unfastening the screw
No. 1, which leaves the piece Q free. The latter is moved by means of the stud 2.
The second movement is effected by means of the piece J sliding on the piece Q.
No fastening screw is required, but the piece is moved by means of the stud
No. 3.
For the end of the shoulder at the arm hole one horizontal movement only is
necessary, and for this the screw 4 is unfastened and the piece A is caused to slide
on the piece X, the stud 5 being used for moving it.
For the neck end of the shoulder two movements are necessary. The first is an
upward and downward movement of the piece B, which is movable in the slide T.
6 is the fastening screw, and 7 the operating stud. The second movement is a
forward or backward one of the piece T, which sliding on the piece ✗ draws the
• piece B along with it; there is no stop screw for this movement.
effecting the same is the one marked 29.
The stud for
For the breast part at the centre of the neck a single horizontal movement of
the piece C is required, this piece sliding on the piece ✗. No. 8 is the fastening
screw therefor, and 9 its operating stud.
For the central chest portion two movements are required, namely, a horizontal

page_text: 'movement of the piece D, which slides in the piece U. The fastening screw for
this is shewn at 10, and the operating stud at 11. The second movement is effected
by the piece U, which moves upward and downward, sliding on the frame and
carrying with it the piece D in the desired direction. 12 is the fastening screw,
but there is no operating stud.
For measuring the front portion at the waist a single horizontal movement of
the piece E situated in the piece V is sufficient. 13 is the fastening screw, and 14
the operating stud for this part.
For determining the end of the breast portion, and where the seam is to be
made, a single movement only of the piece F is necessary. By means of the said
picco this seam, may be inclined or taken up at will. The piece F is secured by
ineans of a slotted piece W and the fastening screw 17.
The position of the side seam marked G in the Drawing is determined by means
of the graduations marked on the piece V, which serves as a base line, all the other
pieces being arranged parallel with or at a right angle to it.
h, h, are rods supporting the pieces V, E, F. These rods slide on the frame, and
provide means for shifting the pieces V, E, F, according to the length of the bust of
different persons.
The division at I between the front and the side pieces at the arm-hole is
determined by the small notches shewn in the Drawing.
For the end of the back piece at the arm-hole I make use of the graduations
shewn at J, which correspond to the dimensions under the arms. The metrical
scale however here indicates the height of this part on the piece Q and not its
distance from the end of the piece. The movements of the first part of my
improved apparatus terminate here. In order to know the positions which each
piece should occupy it is only required to stop them as soon as the figure corre-
sponding to half the actual dimensions appear.
It will be seen that in the illustration I have supposed 44 to be the figure for
the. upper pieces, and 38 that for the lower ones. The figure opposite on the
metrical scale will in all cases indicate the distance from the end of the piece to
this point, all the movements being produced as above described. A perfect
contour of the part to be cut out will be indicated by lines connecting the various
points in a manner readily understood by tailors.
The other portion of my improved apparatus, represented in Figure 2, is partly
in the form of a square or right angled piece, as shewn. This piece should be
placed in such a manner that the one limb thereof will form a continuation of the
part V of that portion of the apparatus which has been hereinbefore described, and
will thus be completely level or parallel with the said portion.
For the ends of the side pieces of the garment at the waist two movements are
necessary, the first being upward to allow the placing of the pieces L, M, as a
continuation of the seam part indicated by F in Figure 1. The second movement
is a horizontal displacement of the two pieces l, m, which change these two points
in any direction desired. 19 and 21 are the fastening screws, and 20 and 22 are
the operating studs.
For the width of the bottom of the waist pieces one movement only is required,
which is effected by causing the part Y to pass to the figure corresponding to the
measurement taken at the waist. The position of the point N with relation to the
side piece is invariable. O is a rod indicating the width of the back pieces. This
rod serves to determine the actual place which this second portion of the apparatus
should occupy with regard to the first portion. The end of the piece O should
always be against the arm-hole, care being taken that the angle piece Z, Z, forms a
continuation of the piece V of the first portion of the apparatus. The position of
the piece V should be marked with chalk to permit Z, Z, to be properly set. This
piece has two movements, the first giving the length of the back by causing the
said piece O to slide in the part S. 23 is the fastening screw, and 24 is the
operating stud therefor. The second movement is made by the piece S, which
slides upon the piece Z, and permits of the rod O being always brought in a line

page_text: with the arm-hole, against the edge of which it should rest.
screw for this piece S.
25 is the fastening
For setting out the width and height of the back at the neck and shoulders two
movements are required. The first is horizontal, and gives the width of the collar.
It is effected by causing the piece P to slide in the part. R. 26 is the fastening
screw, and 27 the moving stud for this purpose. The second movement is that of
the part R, which sliding on the piece Z draws the piece P with it. 28 is the
fastening screw for this part R. The upper extremity has no fixed base, as it
depends entirely on the length of waist of the person, and is based upon the height
of the part B relatively to the part V of that portion of my Invention first herein
described, which may be known by adding to the metrical figure at H the one in
front of the notch of the line or piece A. If the parts are thus placed and secured
the contour of the back and side pieces will be clearly indicated.
The said apparatus may be employed for the garments of women and children
as well as for those of men.
Having thus fully described the said Invention, as communicated to me by my
foreign correspondent, and the manner of performing the same, I wish it understood
that I claim,
First. For facilitating the measuring and cutting out of the front or breast
part of a garment the apparatus arranged as shewn in Figure 1, and operating as
above set forth.
Second. For facilitating the measuring and cutting out of the back and sides
of a garment the apparatus arranged as shewn in Figure 2, and operating as above
set. forth.
Third. For facilitating the measuring and cutting out of a garment the apparatus
formed by the combination of the two parts, the one for measuring the front or
breast-parts, and the other for measuring the sides and back parts, the whole
arranged substantially as shewn in Figures 1 and 2 of the Drawing, and operating
as and for the purpose set forth.
In witness whercof, I, the said William Robert Lake, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Twenty-third day of December, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and eighty.
W. ROB, LAKE.
(L.S.)