Improvements in Means or Apparatus Employed in Sewing.
Year: 1888

page_text: Date of Application, 17th Sept., 1888
Complete Specification Left, 13th June, 1889-Accepted, 14th Sept., 1889
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Means or Apparatus Employed in Sewing.
We ZACHARY TAYLOR FRENCH and WILLIAM CRISTIAN MEYER both of Boston
Suffolk County in the State of Massachusetts one of the United States of America,
Machinists do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to improvements in sewing machines employing a curved
needle, curved awl, and a nearly circular oscillating shuttle, and in order that the stitch
may be better and more uniformly made, the needle thread for each succeeding stitch being
automatically measured off from a thread supply according to variations in the
thickness of the stock.
Our improved mechanism is adapted to take from the thread supply a variable
amount of thread for the needle to enable the crossing or locking point of the two
threads used to be drawn into the sole or stock or into a channel therein for a
uniform distance from its outer side, notwithstanding variations in the thickness of the
sole or stock.
The needle thread taken from the thread supply spool, ball or cop is acted upon by
a clamp and a pull-off, and an auxiliary take-up before it is passed through the eye of
the looper supplied to the look of the hooked needle, the said clamp being located
between the pull-off and the take-up to take-up the loop of thread cast off from the
shuttle, the clamp acting to clamp thread at a point between the take-up and the thread
supply twice during each stitch.
The needle thread is clamped once, or between the pull off and needle, while the
pull off acts upon the thread to draw from the thread supply a sufficient quantity of
needle thread to form the next stitch, the movement of the pull-off at such time being
variable the clamp preventing the thread supplied for the previous stitch from being
drawn back, the take-up acts to draw up the loop of needle thread cast off from the
shuttle acting to set the stitch.
The stitch set, and sufficient thread pulled off for the next stitch, the clamp changes
its position and clamps the thread between the pull-off and the needle thread supply,
and then the pull-off commences to rise and the auxiliary take-up also rises through
the action of a suitable spring, thus taking up the needle thread, the said auxiliary
take-up preventing any retrograde movement of the needle thread while the clamp
again changes its position preparatory to pulling off a second portion of needle thread,
the said auxiliary take-up thereafter giving up the needle thread held by it to the stitch
forming devices.
The pull-off is operatively connected with the work support through a variable motion
mechanism whereby the pull off has more or less movement imparted to it.
The variable motion mechanism is provided with means to control the extent to which
the locking or crossing point of the two threads may be made to sink into the outer-sole
or stock, the said crossing point being at a definite distance from the outer side of the
sole or the upper side of the stock.
A sufficient quantity of needle thread is positively and automatically drawn off
from the thread supply before the commencement of the stitch next to be made
the shuttle when entering the loop of needle thread not subjecting the thread to
injurious strain.
The looper has two motions, one of reciprocation and the other of oscillation. A
hook cooperates with the looper receiving upon it a needle thread during the movement
of the looper around the needle, the hook acting to hold the thread while the looper
passes the path of the hooked needle at its hooked side and lays the needle thread into
the hook.

page_text: To prevent the loop of needle thread cast-off from the shuttle from getting in the
way of the needle, is provided a loop-guide.
The shuttle carrier has a loop detaining pad, which bears upon that part of the loop
of needle thread through which the shuttle is being passed, which part is connected
directly with the stock or sole, the said pad serving to hold that part of the needle
thread and prevent it from being drawn back.
Our invention comprises a work-support, an oscillating curved hooked needle, a
looper, a curved awl to pierce and feed the stock, a main and an auxiliary take-up,
a shuttle oscillating in a circular race, a pull-off to pull off the needle thread, a clamp
to clamp the needle thread twice during the completion of each stitch, and means to
automatically actuate the pull off for varying distances according to the thickness of
the stock, the variation in the extent of throw of the pull-off being made through
devices connected with and deriving movement from the work support.
Also combining a work-support, a curved hooked needle, and awl, two rolls over
which the needle thread is passed between the thread supply and the stitch making
point a clamp, a main and an auxiliary take-up, and a pull off, and means to
automatically operate the said clamp and pull off according to variations in the thickness
of the stock.
Also combining a curved oscillating hooked needle, a looper having a hollow shank
and means to hold the said shank and levers and means to actuate them to not only
reciprocate the said looper but also to partially rotate the same to carry the thread
about and present it to the hook of the needle.
Also a circular shuttle race, a circular shuttle therein, a curved hooked needle, a
work support, a pull off consisting essentially of a lever having a roll, a shoe mounted
upon one arm of the said lever and an adjustable connecting rod or link whereby the
depth to which the locking point of the stitch is sunk into the material from its upper
side may be regulated.
The column has a plate which receives the pivots for the pull-off, the take-up and
rocking hub carrying the clamp, the stud for the rolls and the stud on which turns
another roll, and the auxiliary take-up. The plate has the bottom plate of the head,
it having uprights to form bearings for the main shaft and bearings for other working
parts.
The main shaft, suitably driven, has fast upon it a cam having a groove, which
receives in it a roll at the end of a slotted lever pivotted on a fixed bracket of the head
of the machine, the said lever embracing a stud erected on a horizontally extended part
of a feed carriage and causing the said carriage to be reciprocated.
The carriage bas a stud, the fulcrum for the awl carrying segment for the
curved awl.
The awl feeds material as the carriage is moved horizontally.
The awl carrying segment is engaged and moved by the sector teeth at the end of
the lever, and actuated by cam.
The carriage receives in it a bar provided at its lower end with a presser foot and
channel guide, it bearing on the upper side of the outer sole or stock as resting on the
throat of the work support or table, a projection or lip of the said foot entering a
channel cut in usual manner in the outer sole.
The upper end of the bar has a roller or other stud which is embraced by the slotted
end of lever the rear end of said lever having a roller acted upon by a periphery of a
cam fast on the main shaft, the said presser always forcing the upper surfaces of the
sole or stock down to a predetermined level.
The segment to which is secured the curved hooked needle is loose on the belt or
stud in the head of the machine, it being in line with the stud.
The said segment is engaged and moved by the toothed end of a lever having a
roller or other stud which enters the groove of the cam hub fast on the main shaft, it
having at its periphery three cam surfaces.
The work support has a throat-plate having a slot for the passage of the needle and
awl and of a pivotted swing piece to which the throat is secured.

page_text: The work support has an arm which enters a slot in a slide-bar, said slide-bar has at
its rear end a projection carrying an adjustable screw to which is attached a spiral
spring the opposite end being attached to a stud on the head and normally acting to
force the bar forward so as to keep the work support pressed up against the stock.
The bar has a series of ratchet teeth engaged by pawls mounted upon a lever the
upper end of the said lever having a roller or other stud which enters a cam groove,
the said cam groove operating the said lever to maintain the pawls in engagement with
the ratchet teeth while the needle acts to penetrate the stock, and also while the take-up
acts to set the stitch.
The swing piece has a backwardly-extended arm to which is jointed one end of an
adjustable connecting rod the length of which determines the depth of the crossing or
locking point of the threads below the surface of the outer sole, the opposite end of
the said rod being attached to not only a link but also to a shoe, a block having a
dovetail groove.
The shoe is free to slide on one arm of a rocking hub free to be moved upon a stud
attached to a bracket the opposite end of the said rocking hub being provided
with a roll about which is passed the needle thread the said roll acting when
depressed to pull off a sufficient quantity of needle thread to form the. next stitch to
be made.
The shoe is joined to a link jointed to a lever the upper end of the said lever having
a suitable roller or other stud which enters a cam groove the cam moving the said lever
at each rotation of the main shaft and should the shoe remain in position upon the
outwardly extende.I arm of the rocking hub carrying the pull-off then the amount of
thread pulled off for each stitch would be uniforin, but this shoe is move more or less
vertically upon the arm through the connecting rod attached to the work support, the
said work support being turned more or less by variations in thickness of the stock
will move the shoe in a corresponding manner so that the said arm and pull off will
have imparted to them a variable stroke.
To insure a right line movement for the connecting rod and shoe the latter has
jointed to it a radius bar pivotted on the bracket.
Between the rolls is placed a clamp attached to a lug of a rocking hub, the end of
which receives a bolt joined to the lever the said rod at each side of the said rocking
hub having applied to it adjusting nuts, the said rod being surrounded between the
hub and the nuts with springs which act as cushions when the rod is moved horizontally,
the said springs at such time acting directly against the rocking hub and enabling
the clamp to clamp the thread closely but yet not hard enough to crush the
thread.
The lever for moving the rocking-hub of the clamp so that the clamp may clamp
the needle thread against one of the rolls and then against the other has at its upper
end a suitable stud which enters a cam groove.
After leaving the roll the needle thread is passed over a roller mounted loosely upon
a stud of a lever, the said lever being acted upon by a spring which normally acts to
move the roller toward the needle.
The roller lever and spring constitute the auxiliary take-up to prevent back move-
ment of the needle thread, while the clamp moves froin roller to roller taking up any
slack thread and giving it up subsequently.
The main take up consists of a lever having a roll, the said lever forming part of a
rocking hub supported in the plate, the said hub at its opposite end having
an arın connected by a short link with a lever fulcrumed on a stud of an arm projecting
from one of the uprights.
The latter lever is provided with a stud which enters a groove of the cam
hub fast to the main shaft the said take-up operating to take up the loop of
thread cast off from the shuttle and draw the needle thread taut to set the stitch.
The needle thread is passed over a roll upon the pivot stud for the lever of the
auxiliary take up.
By taking the needle thread from the thread supply and tension device through the

page_text: agency of a pull off having a variable motion due to the thickness of the stock and
holding the thread so pulled off for the stitch next to be made, and giving it up to the
take-up as required the strain upon the take-up is reduced and what is of greater
importance the thread is not acted upon by a strong force between the junction of the
thread with the stock and pull-off.
Pulling off from the thread supply, and storing up enough thread for the next stitch
to be made, makes it unnecessary for the shuttle to draw from the thread supply
during its passage through the loop of needle thread sufficient thread for the next
stitch to be made and consequently the shuttle does not exert such strain upon the loop
of needle thread as to cause it to be drawn and imbedded too far into the welt or into
the lower side of the stock to its injury.
Adjusting the length of the connecting rod through the right and left threaded nut
thereon makes it possible to control the depth to which the locking or crossing points
of the needle and shuttle threads shall be drawn below the upper side of the sole or
stock upon which rests the presser foot, the said locking point being maintained at a
uniform distance from the upper surface of the sole next the presser foot notwith-
standing variations in the thickness of the sole or stock.
The looper is attached to the end of an arm having a split hub having a screw
clamped upon the forward end of a sleeve mounted in bearings the sleeve at its rear
end being provided with an annularly-grooved hub in which enters a swivel block at
the end of a horizontally sliding link pivotted to the lower end of an elbow lever having
its fulcrum, the lever having near its central bent portion a cam roll acted upon by a
cam projection at the periphery of the cam hub the roll being kept in contact with
the periphery of the cam by a spring attached to the lever and to a pin erected upon
the bearings.
The sleeve hollow for the passage through it of the needle thread has splined upon
it a hub having a sector engaged by another sector pivotted on a stud provided with a
cam roll acted upon by a cam at the side.
The connection between the hub and the sleeve is such that the latter is free to slide
longitudinally through the former, both rocking together.
The cam roll is normally kept against the cam at the periphery of the cam hub by a
spring resting upon the plate, the movement of the lever by the cam rocking the
looper, while the movement of the lever causes it to be moved horizontally, the combined
movements of the looper through the devices or instrumentalities being such as to cause
the delivery eye at the end of the looper to follow.
The looper moves to a certain point when it turns aside and travels in a curved path
about the hook continuing its motion until it reaches another point laying thread
upon the end of the book, the thread being laid about the needle and into the hook.
The looper having arrived in position the needle commences to rise taking with
it the thread and then starts back along its former path and follows to the point from
which it started where its movement is temporarily arrested with its eye in the line or
direction of strain upon the thread it remaining there until the stitch is set, thus
obviating undue friction of the needle thread in the eye of the looper, the awl at such
time piercing the stock and feeding the material over the work support.
Prior to our invention we are not aware that a looper cooperating with a hooked
needle has been reciprocated and at the same time oscillated about its centre so we do
not desire to limit our invention to the exact devices employed for imparting to the
looper the movements herein described.
The hook is attached to a hook holding arm secured to the framework by a bolt.
The loop of thread drawn through the material by the hooked needle is caught by
the lower hooked end of the spreader the same being connected to a spreader lever
also having a roll which is acted upon by the periphery of the cam hub aforesaid
attached to the main shaft, the said spreader acting to draw up the loop of needle thread
and hold it for the entrance therein of the point of the shuttle.
A spring connected to an arm of the lever and also to a fixed part of the frame.
normally keeps the roll in contact with its actuating cam.

page_text: The lever receives through it a bolt which is also extended through a slot in an ear
extended upward from or forming part of the shuttle case, the ear and bolt serving as a
guide for the lever to prevent any side motion or vibration thereof.
The shuttle for more than 270 degrees is circular, the shell or body of the shuttle
having at its outer edge a bearing rib.
The shuttle receives within it a cop or ball of waxed thread which is drawn through
a hole in a lid pivoted to the shell. The lid has attached to it a delivery projection
having a thread delivery hole, the shuttle thread being delivered from the shuttle
directly.
The shuttle thread is acted upon by a tension device.
The shuttle shell has connected with it a latch which engages part of the lid.
The shuttle placed in a shuttle race having a circular cavity is held therein
by a cap.
The race shoulder receives one side of the projection of the shuttle the other side of
the projection being acted upon by the cap.
The shuttle race contains a shuttle carrier having two projections acting upon
the shuttle.
The lid of the shuttle has a raised projection for the loop of needle thread.
The shuttle carrier oscillating shaft has a pinion engaged and oscillated by a series
of bevilled teeth constituting a rack and carried by a shuttle actuating lever having a stud
which enters a cam groove for moving the said shuttle.
The shuttle carrier has a pad to act upon the needle thread between the shuttle and
carrier, and through which the shuttle is being then moved clamping that portion of
the loop of needle thread that the other part of the loop when cast off from the heel
of the shuttle by the take-up will not be pulled back through the material.
The head of the machine has a loop guide for the said loop while it is being drawn
up by the take-up and kept out of the way of the needle.
Dated the 7th andamhan 1000
WM. BROOKES & SON,
55 & 56, Chancery Lane, London, Agents for the Applicants.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Means or Apparatus Employed in Sewing.
We, ZACHARY TAYLOR FRENCH and WILLIAM CRISTIAN MEYER both of Boston,
Suffolk County in the State of Massachusetts one of the United States of America,
Machinists do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statenient :-
This invention relates to improvements in that class of sewing machines employing a
curved needle, curved awl, and a nearly circular oscillating shuttle, and our invention
has for its object to improve and simplify such class of machine in order that the stitch
may be better and more uniformly made, the needle thread required for each successive
stitch being automatically measured off or taken in advance from a thread supply in
varying quantity according to variations in the thickness of the stock.
Our improved mechanism adapted to take from the thread-supply a variable
amount of thread for the needle and hence called needle thread, is also so constructed
as to enable the crossing or locking point of the two threads used to be drawn into the
sole or stock, or into a channel therein for a uniform distance from its outer side
notwithstanding variations in the thickness of the sole or stock.
In our invention the needle thread taken from the thread supply which may be
a suitable spool, ball or cop, is acted upon by a clamp and pull-off, and an auxiliary
take-up, before it is passed through the eye of the looper to be supplied to the
hook of the hooked needle, the said clamp being located between the pull-off and
the take-up which is employed to take up the loop of thread cast off from the
shuttle, the clamp, as herein shown, acting to clamp and hold the said needle thread
at a point between the take-up and the thread supply twice during each stitch.

page_text: The needle thread is clamped once or between the pull-off and needle while the
pull-off acts upon the thread to draw from the thread-supply a sufficient quantity
of needle thread to form the next stitch, the movement of the pull-off at such time
being variable according to the thickness of the stock, the clamp preventing the thread
supplied for the previous stitch from being drawn back, and at this same time the take-up
acts to draw up the loop of needle thread cast-off from the shuttle, the take-up at such
time acting to set the stitch.
The stitch having been set and a sufficient quantity of needle thread having been
pulled off for the next stitch, the clamp changes its position and clamps the thread
between the pull-off and the needle thread supply, and then the pull-off commences
to rise, and at such time the auxiliary take-up also rises through the action of a suitable
spring, thus taking up the needle thread given up by the pull-off while the clamp held
the needle thread between the pull-off and thread supply, the said auxiliary take-up
preventing any retrograde movement of the needle thread while the clamp again
changes its position preparatory to pulling off a second portion of needle thread, the
said auxiliary take-up thereafter giving up the needle thread stored up or held by it,
to the stitch forming devices.
The pull-off is operatively connected with the work support or table through a
variable motion mechanism, whereby the pull-off has more or less movement imparted
to it through changes in position of the said work-support or table, the position of the
latter being determined by the thickness of the stock.
The said variable motion mechanism is provided with means to control the extent to which
the locking or crossing point of the two threads may be made to sink into the outer
sole or stock, the said crossing point being at a definite distance from the
outer side of the sole or the upper side of the stock whatever may be the thickness
of the said sole or stock.
In the machine herein to be described wherein a sufficient quantity of needle thread
is positively and automatically drawn off from the thread supply before the
commencement of the stitch next to be made, it will be understood that the shuttle
when entering the loop of needle thread does not and need not subject the said needle
thread to a strain such as would tend to cause the previous stitch to be unduly
embedded into and to the injury of the underside of the stock, or to the welt
which, when our machine is used to stitch a welted shoe, rests on the work support
or table.
The looper herein to be described has imparted to it two motions, one of reciprocation,
and the other of oscillation by peculiar mechanism to be described.
We have provided a hook to co-operate with the looper, the said hook receiving
upon it a needle thread during the movement of the looper around the needle, the said
hook acting to hold the needle thread while the looper passes or crosses the path of
movement of the booked needle at its hooked side and lays the needle thread into the
hook just before the needle rises.
To prevent the loop of needle thread cast-off from the shuttle from getting in the way of
the needle, we have provided a loop-guide, the same being located near that part of the
shuttle race where the loop is discharged.
The shuttle carrier is provided with a loop detaining pad made as a spring, which,
located at the rear side of the shuttle, bears upon that part of the loop of needle
thread through which the shuttle is being passed which part is connected directly with
the stock or sole, the said pad serving to hold that part of the needle thread and
prevent it from being drawn back through the stock by the friction against it
of that part of the needle thread which is being drawn down by the take up.
Our invention consists essentially in a work-support; an oscillating curved booked
needle a looper; a curved awl to pierce and feed the stock; a main and an auxiliary
take-up; a shuttle oscillating in a circular race; a pull-off to pull off the needle
thread; a clamp to clamp the needle thread, as will he described, twice during the
completion of each stitch; and means, substantially as will be described, to auto-
matically actuate the pull-off for varying distances according to the thickness of the
stock, the variation in the extent of throw of the pull-off being made through devices

page_text: substantially as will be described connected with and deriving movement from the
work-support.
Also, in a sewing machine, a work-support; a curved hooked needle; and awl;
two rolls over which the needle thread is passed between the thread supply and the
stitch making point; a clamp; a main and an auxiliary take-up; and a pull-off; and
means to automatically operate the said clamp and pull-off according to variations in
the thickness of the stock.
Also, in a sewing machine, a curved oscillating hooked needle; a looper having a
hollow shank; and means to hold the said shank; and levers; and means to actuate
them to not only reciprocate the said looper, but also to partially rotate the same to
carry the thread about and present it to the hook of the needle.
Also, a circular shuttle race; a circular shuttle therein; a curved hooked needle;
a work support; a pull off consisting essentially of a lever having a roll; a shoe
mounted upon one arm of the said lever; and an adjustable connecting rod or link,
substantially as will be described, whereby the depth to which the locking point of the
stitch is sunk into the material from its upper side may be regulated, substantially
as will be described.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.
Fig. 1 is a right hand side elevation of a sufficient portion of a sewing machine,
containing our improvements to enable the same to be understood.
Fig. 1a, an enlarged perspective of the loop expander 147.
Fig. 2, is a top or plan view of the machine shown in Fig. 1.
Fig. 3, a front elevation thereof.
Fig. 3a, a detail showing the shoe ca detached and a section of it.
Fig. 3b, a like view to Fig. 3 drawn to a much enlarged scale and otherwise adapted
the better to facilitate comprehension of the details of the invention.
Fig. 4, a left hand side elevation of the machine shown in Fig. 1.
Figs. 5 and 6, represent in elevation and section our improved shuttle.
Fig. 7, is a section of the machine shown in Fig. 3 on the line -, looking toward
the left.
Fig. 8, is a detail of the looper and its actuating mechanism.
Fig. 8 a, is a diagram showing a part of the hooked needle and looper and thread, the
dotted lines slowing the direction of the movement of the looper when supplying the
needle with thread.
Fig. 9 is a section in the line a¹ of Fig. 8.
Figs. 10, 11 and 12 represent details of the shuttle race and driver with its connected
pad, and of the driver and pad, and
Fig. 13 is a sectional view chiefly to show the awl segment and devices to move it.
Fig. 14 shows by an edge view and a side view the stitch forming parts arranged
and the work support 15 according to our invention employed in the formation of
the stitch.
Figure 15 shows like views of the same in another position.
Figure 16 shows the same together with a detail in edge view to a larger scale
of some portions thereof in a position assumed by the parts in further development
of the stitch.
Figures 17, 18, 19 and 20 show like views of still further development of the stitch
formation, and
Figures 21 to 25 show side views of these parts in positions of subsequence of
development, there being also shown with Figure 24 a detail showing more clearly to
a larger scale the relative positions of the threads in operation.
Figure 26 is an enlarged detail showing part of the frame-work together with the
needle segment, and the needle guide, and the stud on which the needle segment turns,
and the spring-actuated rock-shaft to actuate the needle guide, and Fig. 27 is a section
to the right of the dotted line a³, Fig. 26.
The column A has bolted to it at its upper end a plate A which receives the pivots

page_text: or studs for the pull-off, the take-up n to be described and rocking hub 9 carrying the
clamp 5, the stud for the rolls 3, 4, and the stud 36 on which turns the roll n¹³, and the
auxiliary take-up. The plate A¹ has bolted to it the bottom plate of the head A², it
having uprights A12 to form bearings for the main shaft A³ and other uprights to form
bearings for other working parts.
The shaft A³ is or may be driven by power applied to the wheel A. The shaft A³
has fast upon it, near its right hand end, a cam 6 having a groove 6 which receives in
it a roll e at the end of a slotted lever pivoted at 7 on a fixed bracket as g of the
head of the machine, the said lever embracing a stud h erected on a horizontally
extended part of a feed carriage j, the vibration of the said lever causing the said
carriage to be reciprocated in a guide way in the said bracket 9.
The carriage; has a stud t which serves as the fulcrum for the awl carrying segments,
see Fig. 13, to which is attached the curved awl r.
The awl r acts to feed the material as the carriage j is moved horizontally with the
awl in the stock.
The awl carrying segments, (see Fig. 13) is engaged and moved by the sector teeth
at the end of the lever s² pivoted at 3 and actuated by cam c.
The carriage receives in it a bar m provided at its lower end with a presser foot
and channel guide m¹ it bearing on the upper side of the outer sole or stock m²
partially shown in Fig. 1 as resting on the throat 15 of the work support or table,
a projection or lip of the said foot entering a channel cut in usual manner in the
outer sole.
The upper end of the bar m has a roller or other stud which is embraced by the slotted
end of a lever m* pivoted on a stud m*, see dotted lines Figs. 1 and 2, the rear end of
the said lever having a roller m³ which is acted upon by a periphery of a cam c, it
being the second cam fast on the shaft A³ from its right hand end, the said presser
always forcing the upper surfaces of the sole or stock down to a predetermined level
whatever may be the thickness of the stock.
The segment 18 to which is secured the curved hooked needle 16, is loose on the
bolt or stud 19 in the head of the machine, it being in line with the stud t.
The segment 18 is engaged and moved by the toothed end 21 of the lever 22
pivoted at 23, the said lever having a roller or other stud 23× which enters the
groove 22× of the cam hub d fast on the shaft A³, it having at its periphery three cam
surfaces 51, 013 and 020 to be described.
The head A is bored to receive the headed bolt 19 which receives upon it and con-
stitutes the pivot about which the needle segment 18 turns when actuated by the
sector 21, the said needle segment having attached to it by a suitable bolt 18* the
hooked needle 16. The needle 16 is fitted to reciprocate through the combined needle
guide and cast-off 26 common to this class of sewing machine and not of our
invention, it forming part of a plate 28 having segmental teeth and also loose on the
said bolt 19.
The plate 28 is provided at its inner side, see Figure 27, next the head A², with a
slot 28 into which projects a pin 29* fixed to and projecting from one side of the
head A2 parallel to the bolt 19, the said pin acting as a stop for the plate 28 and needle
guide 26 in one direction of its movement, as when the needle is entering the
material. The teeth of the plate 28 are engaged by a pinion at the inner end of a
rock shaft 29 which is acted upon at its inner end by a suitable spring 32* shown as
a clock spring, one end of which is attached to the said rock shaft while the opposite
end of the said spring is held by a screw 33*, see Figure 4, the said spring normally acting
to turn the shaft 29 and pinion in the direction to cause the needle guide 26 to follow
the needle in its penetrating movement, the plate 28 so acted upon by the pinion a
being arrested at the proper time by the pin 29x meeting the end of the slot 28*.
The work support or table consists essentially of a throat plate 15 having a slot for
the passage of the needle and awl, and of a swing piece 44 to which the throat 15 is
secured, the said swing piece being pivoted at 45.
The work support or table, at its lower end, has an arm 46, see Figure 1, which
enters a slot in a slide-bar 47, the parts 44, 45, 46, 47 being known devices.

page_text: Herein the said slide bar 47 has, at its rear end, a projection carrying an adjustable
screw b¹ to which is attached a spiral spring 62, the opposite end of the spring being
attached to a stud 3 on the head A2, the said spring normally acting to
force the bar 47 forward so as to keep the work support pressed up against
<ck.
The bar 47 has a series of ratchet teeth partially shown at 64 Fig. 1, which are
engaged by two like pawls 65, one only of which is shown in Fig. 1, mounted
upon a lever 6 having its fulcrum at 6', the upper end of the said lever having
a roller or other stud as 68, see dotted lines Fig. 1, which enters a cam groove
at the inner side of the cam b, the said cam groove operating the said lever to
maintain the pawls in engagement with the ratchet teeth while the needle acts
to penetrate the stock, and also while the take-up, to be described, acts to set
the stitch.
The swing piece 44 has a backwardly extended arm to which is jointed
at one end of an adjustable connecting rod 10 the length of which determines
the depth of the crossing or locking point of the threads below the surface of the
outer sole, the opposite end of the said rod being jointed or attached as by a
screw c¹ to, not only a link c, but also to a shoe shown as a block having a
dovetail groove, the shoe being partially broken out in Fig. 3 and shown separately
and in section in Fig. 3 a on an enlarged section.
The shoe c is free to slide ou one arm of a rocking hub c40 free to be turned or
rocked upon a stud c attached to a bracket e projecting from the plate A¹, the opposite
end of the said rocking hub being provided with a roll 2 about which is passed the
needle thread between the roll 3 and the roll 4, the said roll 2 acting when depressed
to pull off or take from the tension device c', of any usual or suitable construction, or
from the thread supply, not shown, which may be a spool or cop, a sufficient quantity
of needle thread as w to form the next stitch to be made.
The shoe c³, by a pin d', is joined to a link d², see Fig. 1, in turn jointed at d³ to a
lever d pivoted at d, the upper end of the said lever having a suitable roller or
other stud, shown by dotted lines, which enters a cam groove cut in the right
hand side of the cam c, the said cam moving the said lever d uniformly at each
rotation of the main shaft A³, and should the shoe c³ remain in position upon the
outwardly extended arm of the rocking hub 10 carrying the pull-off 2, then the
amount of thread pulled off for each stitch would be uniform, but this shoe c³ is
moved more or less vertically upon the said arm through the connecting rod 1,10
attached to the part 44 of the work support or table, and as will be readily under-
stood the said work support, being turned more or less by variations in thickness
of the stock m², will move the shoe c³ in a corresponding manner so that the said
arm and pull-off will have imparted to them a variable stroke, the nearer the
shoe c to the centre of motion c of the arm e carrying the pull off the greater the
motion of the pull off for the next stitch to be made, and vice-versa.
To insure a right line movement for the connecting rod 610 and shoe c³, the latter
has jointed to it the radius-har or link before referred to, it being pivoted at d
on the bracket cº.
Between the rolls 3 and 4 is placed a clamp 5, see Fig. 7, attached by a screw 6
to a lug 8 forming part of a rocking hub 9 the upwardly extended left hand end
of which, viewing the front of the machine, see Fig. 3 and 4, receives through it.
a threaded bolt 10 joined at 30, see Fig. 4, to the lower end of the lever 31
having its fulcrum at 32, the said rod at each side of the upwardly extended
portion of the said rocking hub, having applied to it like adjusting nuts 12, the
said rod being surrounded between the said hub and the said nuts at each side of
the said hub, with suitable spiral or other springs 13 which act as cushions when
the rod 10 is moved horizontally by the lever 31, the said springs at such time
acting directly against the upwardly extended portion of the said rocking hub and
enabling the clamp 5 to clamp the thread closely but yet not pinch it hard enough
upon the roll with which it cooperates as to crush or weaken the thread.
The lever 31 for moving the rocking-hub 9 of the clamp 5 referred to so that the
D

page_text: clamp at one portion of the time during each rotation of the main shaft may clamp
the needle thread w against one of the rolls 4 or 3, and then against the other as
referred to, has at its upper end a suitable roller or other stud 33, shown by full lines
in Fig. 3, which enters a cam groove cut in the inner side of the cam e², the said cam
groove being shown by dotted lines at e³ in Fig. 4.
After leaving the roll 4 the needle thread is passed over a roller 34, see Fig. 7,
mounted loosely upon a stud at the inner end of a lever 35, see Figs. 1, 3 and 4,
pivoted at 36, the said lever being acted upon by a spring 37 connected at one end to
a fixed arm 38 so that the said spring normally acts to move the roller 34 toward
the needle.
The roller 34, lever 35, the spring 37 constitute what we shall call the auxiliary
take-up, its purpose being to prevent any retrograde or back movement of the needle
thread while the clamp moves from the roller 4 to the roller 3, the auxiliary take up
taking up any slack thread which may exist at that time and giving it up subsequently
to the main take-up, now to be described.
The main take up consists of a lever n having preferably at its outer end a roll n',
the said lever forming part of a rocking hub n² supported on a stud n³ in the plate A¹
the said hub at its opposite end having an arm n which is connected by a short link n
with a lever no having its fulcrum on a stud n of an arm na projecting from one of the
uprights or stands supporting the main shaft A³.
The upper end of the lever n is provided with a roller or other stud n³ which enters
a cam groove n10 at the side of the cam hub e2 fast to the main shaft A³, the said take
up operating at the proper time to take up the loop of thread cast off from the
shuttle D, to be described, and draw the needle thread taut to set the stitch, the
take-up at no time acting to draw thread from the thread supply but only taking up
the thread from the slack thread produced by or through the action of the pull-off, as
described, and held by the auxiliary take-up.
The needle thread between the take-up roll n' and the thread guide or looper o is
passed over a roll n¹³ mounted upon the pivot stud 36 which serves as a fulcrum for
the lever 35 of the auxiliary take-up.
By taking the needle thread from the thread supply and tension device through the
agency of a pull-off having a variable motion due to the thickness of the stock, and
holding the thread so pulled off for the stitch next to be made and giving it up to the
take-up as required, the strain upon the take-up is reduced and what is of greater
importance the thread is not acted upon by a strong force between the junction of the
thread with the stock and the pull off.
Pulling off from the thread supply and storing up enough thread for the next stitch
to be made, makes it unnecessary for the shuttle to draw from the thread supply
during its passage through the loop of needle thread sufficient thread for the next
stitch to be made, and consequently the shuttle does not exert such strain upon the
loop of needle thread as to cause it to be drawn and imbedded too far into the welt or
into the lower side of the stock to its injury.
Adjusting the length of the connecting rod 610 through the right and left threaded
nut 40 thereon, makes it possible to control the depth to which the locking or crossing
points of the needle and shuttle threads shall be drawn below the upper side of the
sole or stock upon which rests the presser foot, the said locking point being maintained
at a uniform distance from the upper surface of the sole next the presser foot, notwith-
standing variations in the thickness of the sole or stock.
The looper o having an eye of usual construction is attached to the end of an arm o
having a split hub as o², which by a screw as o³ is clamped upon the forward end of a
sleeve of mounted in bearings o, the said sleeve at its rear end being provided with an
annularly grooved hub oⓇ in which enters a swivel block o' at the end of a horizontally
sliding link of pivoted to the lower end of an elbow lever o³ having its fulcrum at old,
the said lever having near its central bent portion a cam roll o¹ which is acted upon
by a cam projection o¹³ at the periphery of the cam hub d, the said roll being kept in
contact with the periphery of the said cam by a spring as o attached to the said lever
and to a pin as o¹³ erected upon the bearings o'.

page_text: The sleeve o, hollow for the passage through it of the needle thread, has splined
upon it a hub ox having a sector o¹ which is engaged by a sector 017 pivoted on
a stud 18 and provided with a cam roll o¹ which is acted upon by a cam o²º at the side
of the cam o13 before referred to.
.
The connection between the hub ox and the sleeve o, is such that the latter is free
to slide longitudinally through the former, both however rocking together.
The cam roll o¹ is normally kept against the cam o20 at the periphery of the cam hub d
referred to, by a spring 42, see Fig. 4, resting upon the plate A2, the movement of
the lever o by the cam 020, rocking the looper, while the movement of the lever o
causes it to be moved horizontally, the combined movements of the looper through the
devices or instrumentalities described being such as to cause the delivery eye at the end
of the looper to follow in a path of substantially the shape designated by the dotted
line diagram near its end in Fig. 8 a.
The looper o, starting from the point 43, moves to the left in the direction of
the arrow 60 upon the said diagram to the point 44 when it turns aside and travels
in a curved path about the hook p continuing its motion until it reaches the point 45
laying its thread as shown by the full lines Fig. 8 a upon the end of the hook
the thread being laid about the needle 16 and into its hook.
p
The looper having arrived at the point 45, the needle 16 commences to rise taking
with it the thread w, and then the looper starts back along its former path and follows
in the direction of the dotted lines represented by the arrow 47 to the point 43 from
which it started, where its movement is temporarily arrested with its eye in the line
or direction of strain upon the thread, it remaining there until the stitch is set, thus
obviating undue friction of the needle thread in the eye of the looper, the awl at such
time piercing the stock and feeding the material over the work support.
Prior to our invention we are not aware that a looper co-operating with a hooked
needle has been reciprocated and at the same time oscillated about its centre, so we do
not desire to limit our invention to the exact devices employed for imparting to the
looper the movements herein described.
The hook p is attached to a hook holding arm secured to the frame work by a
bolt 46, see Fig. 4.
The loop of needle thread drawn through the material by the hooked needle 16,
is caught by the lower hooked end of the spreader 147 shown separately in Fig. 1 a,
the said spreader being connected to a spreader lever 48 pivoted at 49, the
spreader lever having a roll 50, see Fig. 2, which is acted upon by the periphery 51
of the cam hub referred to attached to the main shaft, the said spreader acting
to draw up the loop of needle thread and hold it for the entrance therein of the
point 52 of the shuttle D.
A spring 53 connected to an arm of the lever 48 and also to a fixed part of
the frame, normally keeps the roll 50 in contact with its actuating cam.
The lever 48 receives through it a bolt 54 which is also extended through a slot
in an ear 55 extended upward from or forming part of the shuttle case, the said
ear and bolt serving as a guide for the lever 48 to prevent any side motion or
vibration thereof.
"
The shuttle D shown separately in Figs. 5 and 6 for more than 270 degrees is
circular, the shell or body of the shuttle having at its outer edge a bearing rib 56.
The shuttle D receives within it a cop,"
" "bowl" or "ball" (indicated partly in
dotted and partly in section) as 57 of waxed thread, which is drawn from the
centre of the ball through a hole as 58 in a lid 59 pivoted at 60 to the shell. The
lid 59 has attached to it by screws 61 a delivery projection or button 62 having
a thread delivery hole 63 located at the centre of oscillation of the shuttle, but at
one side of the centre of the ball, the shuttle thread 64 being thus delivered from
the shuttle directly at its centre of oscillation, which enables the ball to be made
larger and to be formed with but a small central opening and yet obviate friction
of the shuttle thread upon itself when being drawn from the ball or roll.
The shuttle thread between the said lid and button is acted upon by a tension

page_text: device 65 shown as a bent spring inserted between the lid and button, one end of the
said spring being bent to enter one of the series of holes 66 in the lid so that the
strength of the spring and consequently the tension upon the shuttle thread may be
varied.
The shuttle shell, see Fig. 5, has connected with it a spring hook or latch 67 which
engages a notched or beveled part of the lid and holds the latter closed.
The shuttle described is placed in a shuttle race D¹ having a circular cavity, and is
held therein by a cap as D2 attached thereto by suitable screws best shown in
Fig. 3.
The said shuttle race has a shoulder which receives against it one side of the
projection 56 at the periphery of the shuttle, the other side of the said projection being
acted upon by the cap or cover D².
The shuttle race contains a shuttle carrier, as D³, it having two projections 68, 69,
the projection 69 acting upon the shuttle near its heel while the projection 68,
cylindrical in shape, enters the nearly circular space 70 at the base of the beak 52 of
the shuttle, the projection 69 acting as a driver to move the shuttle through the
loop of needle thread, the projections 68 acting to return the shuttle to its starting
point.
The lid 59 of the shuttle is provided with a raised projection 59× which is extended
to the base of the beak 52 and receives upon it the loop of needle thread.
The shuttle carrier referred to is attached to an oscillating shaft D* provided at
its rear end with a pinion 71 shown best in Fig.. 2, which is engaged and oscillated
by a series of beveled teeth constituting a rack and carried at the forward bent end
of a shuttle actuating lever D³ having its fulerum at D6, the said lever between
its ends having a roller or other stud 72 shown by dotted lines Fig. 7 which
enters a cam groove 72* shown also by dotted lines in said Fig., formed at the
left hand side of the cam hub d, the said cam groove moving the said shuttle
through an arc of about 270 degrees more or less.
The shuttle carrier has attached to it by a screw as 73 a pad as 74 preferably
made of sheet steel, the said pad being so shaped as to act upon that part of the
needle thread located between the shuttle and carrier and through which the shuttle
is being then moved, the pad so clamping or holding that portion of the loop of
needle thread that the other part of the loop when cast off from the heel of the
shuttle by the take-up will not be pulled back through the material by the friction
of one portion of the loop against the other portion thus forming slack in the thread
between the stitch being set and the previous stitch.
The head of the machine has bolted to it at 7, a loop-guide ², see Figs. 3 and 4,
upon which drops the loop of needle thread as it is cast off from the heel of the
shuttle, the said guide being so shaped or inclined as to somewhat detain or
guide the said loop while it is being drawn up by the take-up and keep it out of
the way of the needle.
In Fig. 3b, I have shown the loop of needle thread as upon the guide ³ and in the
act of being drawn down and off from the said guide.
We do not herein broadly claim the combination with a curved hook needle and a
curved feeding awl of an oscillating shuttle. The shuttle and its driver may be
variously modified without departing from this invention.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said Inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we
claim is :-
1: In apparatus employed in sewing a work-support; an oscillating curved hooked
needle; a looper; a curved awl to pierce and feed the stock; a main and an auxiliary
take-up; a shuttle moving or oscillating in a circular race; a pull-off to pull off the
needle thread a clamp to clamp the needle thread, as described, twice during the
completion of each stitch; and means, substantially as described, to automatically
actuate the pull-off for varying distances according to the thickness of the stock, the

page_text: variation in the extent of throw of the pull-off being made through devices sub-
stantially as described connected with and deriving movement from the work-support,
substantially as described.
2: In sewing machinery, a work-support; a curved hooked needle; and awl; two
rolls over which the needle thread is passed between the thread supply and the stitch
making point; a clamp; a main and an auxiliary take-up; and a pull-off; and
means to automatically operate the said clamp and pull-off according to variations in
the thickness of the stock, substantially as described.
3-In sewing machinery, a curved oscillating hooked needle; a looper having a
hollow shank; and means to hold the said shank; and lovers; and means to actuate
them to not only reciprocate the said looper, but also to partially rotate the
same to carry the thread about and present it to the hook of the needle, substantially
as described.
4: The circular shuttle race; the circular shuttle therein; the curved hooked
needle; the work support; the pull off consisting essentially of a lever having a roll;
the shoe mounted upon one arm of the said lever; and an adjustable connecting rod or
link, substantially as described, whereby the depth to which the locking point of the
stitch is sunk into the material from its upper side may be regulated, substantially as
described.
101 1
Ат
1000
WM. BROOKES & SON,
55 & 56, Chancery Lane, London, Agents for the Applicants.