IMPROVEMENTS IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF SEWING MACHINERY, WHICH IMPROVEMENTS ARE PARTLY APPLICABLE FOR OTHER PURPOSES
Year: 1881

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Henry Harris Lake, of the Firm of Haseltine, Lake,
"
& Co., Patent Agents, Southampton Buildings, London, for an Invention of
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF SEWING MACHINERY, WHICH
IMPROVEMENTS ARE PARTLY APPLICABLE FOR OTHER PURPOSES." A com-
munication from abroad by John Miller Fair, of Buffalo, New York, United
States of America.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Henry Harris Lake at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 28th February 1881.
HENRY HARRIS LAKE, of the Firm of Haseltine, Lake, & Co., Patent Agents,
Southampton Buildings, London. "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF
SEWING MACHINERY, WHICH IMPROVEMENTS ARE PARTLY APPLICABLE FOR OTHER
PURPOSES." [A communication from abroad by John Miller Fair, of Buffalo, New
York, United States of America].
This Invention relates to improvements in sewing machines, enabling the said
machines to make either the lock-stitch or chain-stitch, as may be desired, by
simple adjustment of the parts and without adding any new parts to the machine
or removing any parts therefrom, and this Invention also relates to various details
of construction (parts whereof are also applicable to other machinery) whereby the
machine is rendered more effective and convenient in operation.
The Invention comprises looping mechanism whereby the chain-stitch is formed,
shuttle mechanism for forming the lock stitch, and an adjusting device whereby
either the looping or the shuttle mechanism may be caused to cooperate with the
needle in sewing; the said Invention also comprises various details of construction
of the combined looping and shuttle mechanism; also a loose pulley of peculiar
construction; a spherical connection for driving the upright shaft which imparts
motion to the hook and shuttle mechanism, and a peculiar construction of feed-
mechanism, and means for actuating the same. This Invention further comprises a
device whereby the spool is held on the post and the thread unwound therefrom
without rotating the spool; also a device whereby the tension wheel is auto-
matically held and released; also mechanism whereby the movement of the thread
to the needle bar, and thence to the eye of the needle, is automatically controlled;
also a device of peculiar construction whereby the pressure on the presser foot is.
regulated. It also comprises a head motion of peculiar construction whereby a
FP 11

page_text: double dip movement is imparted to the needle-bar, which motion is also applicable
for driving the plungers of brick-machines, also steam-valves, and for other
purposes. This Invention further comprises an adjustable arm secured to the bead
of the machine for attaching the hemmer, ruffler, and other attachments, and finally
a shuttle of peculiar construction.
In carrying the said Invention into practice I construct a sewing machine as
follows, that is to say :-
I provide a bed plate for the machine, and an overhanging arm is secured
thereto or cast in one piece therewith. I mount in the latter a horizontal shaft
which transmits motion to the needle-bar and other parts of the machine, and
which is supported in bearings in the said arm. A hand-wheel is secured to the
end of the said shaft by means of an elongated hub or sleeve, and a grooved pulley
turns loosely on the said sleeve between the hand-wheel and a collar secured to the
sleeve. A set-screw works in a threaded bore in the end of the aforesaid shaft and
bears with its head against a plate or washer interposed between the head of the
said screw and the end of the shaft above mentioned. The washer overlaps the
hub of the hand-wheel and is provided with two horizontal pins or bolts extending
through holes in the hand wheel, and bearing against the grooved pulley above
mentioned. Upon releasing the set-screw the grooved pulley turns freely on the
sleeve of the hand wheel without imparting motion to the horizontal or main
shaft. Upon tightening the set-screw the pins or bolts passing through the hand
wheel are pressed against the grooved pulley with sufficient force to transmit the
motion of the latter to the hand wheel and the main shaft carrying the same.
I also provide a vertical shaft which transmits motion to the looping and shuttle
mechanism. The upper end of this shaft is supported in a bearing formed with
the arm or bracket fixed on the bed-plate, and the lower end of the vertical shaft
projects through the bed plate and carries on the under side of the same a
horizontal arm. An eccentric is secured to the horizontal or main shaft for
imparting a rocking motion to the vertical shaft. The face of the said eccentric is
made spherical and engages with a correspondingly shaped box which slides in a
vertical frame attached to the end of a horizontal rocking arm secured to the
upper end of the vertical shaft. The rotary motion of the above mentioned
eccentric imparts motion to the rocking arm and the vertical shaft.
There is also a vertical rocking lever whereby motion is imparted to the feed
mechanism from the main shaft. This lever is pivotted to the arm on the bed-
plate and is actuated by a suitable eccentric mounted on the main shaft and
engaging in the upper forked end of the vertical rocking lever; a connecting rod is
arranged underneath the bed-plate and attached to the lower end of the vertical
rocking lever by a ball and socket joint. A horizontal rocking shaft is supported
underneath the bed-plate in suitable bearings. An arm is secured to this shaft
near its rear end and projects downwardly through a spherical bearing which is
clamped between jaws of a connecting rod. The last mentioned spherical bearing
slides on the arm of the horizontal rocking shaft, so that by raising and lowering
the forked end of the connecting rod above mentioned the spherical bearing can be
adjusted towards and from the horizontal rocking shaft. A link is pivotted with
its lower end between the jaws of the connecting rod and with its upper end to a
set-screw which projects upward through the bed plate, and is held by a screw nut
arranged in a bearing which prevents the nut from moving in the direction of the
screw but permits the nut to rotate. By turning the nut in one or the other
direction the screw-nut is raised or lowered, whereby the spherical bearing is raised
or lowered on the arm of the horizontal rocking shaft and the movement which is
imparted to the said shaft is correspondingly increased or reduced, thereby
increasing or reducing the movement of the feed dog and the length of the stitch.
The feed-dog is supported with its rear end upon a pivot pin and provided with an
inclined slot. A sliding plate is guided between horizontal ways and provided with
an inclined projection which engages in the inclined slot of the dog. The inclined
slot of the dog is made somewhat longer than the projection on the sliding plate, and

page_text: its inclination and the said projection are so arranged that during the first part of
the forward movement of the slide the feed dog will receive no forward movement,
but will be simply raised by the inclines until the projection on the sliding
plate comes in contact with the opposite end of the slot in the dog, when the
forward movement of the feed dog begins and continues until the slide has com-
pleted its stroke. During the first part of the return movement of the slide the
feed-dog is depressed by the inclines without moving horizontally until the
projection on the sliding plate comes in contact with the opposite end of the slot in
the dog, when the return movement of the feed-dog begins and continues until the
slide has completed its return stroke. An arm secured to the horizontal rocking
shaft engages in a slot in the slide, above mentioned, so as to transmit a recipro-
cating movement to the latter. The horizontal rocking shaft being held in a
bearing near the feed-dog, and the slide being guided in horizontal ways, the
actuating parts are firmly guided, and motion is imparted to the feed-dog without
any play or dead movement of the parts. A circular shuttle-race is secured in an
opening in the bed-plate by screws passing through a flange which is formed on
the upper edge of the shuttle-race, and which bears against the lower side of the
bed-plate. I also provide an adjustable supporting plate for the looping and shuttle
mechanism. It is arranged upon the bottom of the shuttle race and swings on the
central hub of the same. The supporting plate for the shuttle and looping devices
is held down by a screw entering it from below and passing through a curved slot
in the bottom of the shuttle-race. The said slot is made sufficiently long to permit
the proper adjustment of the plate. The latter is provided with a spring bolt
which can be made to engage in either of two openings formed in the bottom of the
shuttle-race, thereby holding the plate in either of two positions, in one of which the
shuttle is rendered operative, and in the other of which the looping mechanism is used.
A loop-detaining hook is employed in sewing the chain-stitch. It is formed at the end
of a plate which is pivotted to the adjustable supporting plate between a hook and
the hub of the shuttle-race. This last mentioned plate is provided with a loop-
shaped extension surrounding the hub of the shuttle-race, and carries at one side a
short upwardly projecting pin. I also provide a shuttle-carrier and a plate, to
which it is secured; the plate being attached to a short upright shaft which passes
through the hub of the shuttle-race, and provided at its lower end with an arm
which is actuated by a connecting rod from the arm on the lower end of the vertical
shaft herein before described. The shuttle plate is provided on its underside with a
groove composed of an inner concentric portion, and an outer excentric portion
extending from the end of the concentric portion to the periphery of the shuttle-
plate. The said groove is made of such width as to receive and actuate the pin of
the hook-plate above described. A vertical needle-chamber is formed in the front
side of the shuttle-race, and a horizontal recess intersects this needle-chamber at
right angles, and is made concentric with the fulcrum of the hook plate to permit
the hook to move freely through the recess. The back of the needle-chamber
extends downward through the said horizontal recess, and the latter is provided on
both sides of the needle-chamber with openings extending through the wall of the
shuttle-race. The upper corner at the intersection of the needle-chamber with
the horizontal recess, towards which the hook moves in opening the loop, is pro-
vided with an undercut lip or depending tongue. This lip seizes the loop as the
look passes by, and the loop is thereby opened and held open until the needle in
descending has passed through it. A grooved block fills the openings in the
horizontal recess when the hook is not used, so as to form a smooth surface for the
shuttle to work against. The grooved block is attached to the end of a lever
pivotted to the outside of the shuttle-race, and provided with an arm which
projects into the shuttle-race and carries a pin which engages in an excentric slot
formed in the plate supporting the looping and shuttle mechanism. This excentric
slot is so formed that it will draw the grooved block into the openings in the
horizontal recess when the plate supporting the looping and shuttle mechanism is
placed in the position in which the shuttle is used, and it will swing the grooved

page_text: block out of the said openings when the said supporting plate is turned into the
position in which the looping mechanism is used.
I also provide a spool-post rigidly secured to the arm on the bed-plate, and there
is a supporting disc preferably made concave on its upper side and secured to the
lower end of the spool-post. A clamping disc fits snugly on the spool post, and is
preferably provided on its underside with a conical extension which enters the bore
of the spool. A thread-guide is pivotted to an upright arm, which rises from the
lower disc, so that the eye of the thread guide can be arranged centrally over the
spool post. The spool is placed upon the post and the upper disc is pressed down
upon the spool to prevent the latter from turning. The end of the thread is then
drawn through the eye of the said guide and the thread is unwound from the
spool in a steady and regular manner without rotating the spool, thereby
avoiding the irregular movement which occurs in unwinding the thread from a
rotating spool.
I also provide a tension-wheel turning on an arbor projecting laterally from
another post which is secured to the arm of the bed-plate. A brake bears against
the periphery of the tension-wheel for arresting the movement of the wheel when
required. The said brake consists of a sliding bar or plate arranged on the rear
side of the post carrying the tension wheel, to which post it is attached by a screw
passing through a vertical slot in the brake-plate. The upper end of the latter is
bent so as to overlap the tension wheel. The lower end of the brake-plate
terminates in a pin or rod, which passes through an opening in a horizontal arm
and is provided on the underside of the latter with a spring which tends to hold
the brake down against the tension-wheel. An excentric is mounted on the main
shaft and engages with the lower end of the pin on the brake-plate so as to raise
the brake and release the tension-wheel when required. This excentric is so
arranged on the main shaft as to hold the tension-wheel during a certain portion
of the descending movement of the needle-bar. I also provide an auxiliary thread
controlling device secured to the arm on the bed-plate immediately in the rear of
the needle bar and consisting of a convex block having a Y-shaped groove at its
upper side in which the thread runs. The auxiliary thread-controlling block is
arranged at such a height that the thread will be clamped in the bottom of the
groove during the last portion of the downward movement of the needle-bar and
be lifted out of the groove and run off unrestricted during the upward movement
of the needle bar. This thread-controller is screwed into the arm on the bed-plate
so that its height can be adjusted in accordance with the thickness of the fabric to
be operated upon.
A disc or button is arranged upon the face of the machine for pressing against
the thread with sufficient force to prevent the thread from being pushed down by
the eye of the needle and form a loop below the needle before it enters the cloth.
This disc is secured to a horizontal rod, which slides in openings in the head of the
machine and projects through the rear side of the thread, where it is provided with
a spring, which tends to draw the said disc backward. A two armed lever is
pivotted to the rear side of the head of the machine above the last mentioned
horizontal rod and bearing with its lower arm against the said rod, while its upper
arm bears against a cam mounted on the main shaft, and so formed that it will
hold the last described disc in a forward position or away from the thread, which
passes down between the rear side of the said disc and the head of the machine,
except during that portion of the downward movement of the needle-bar during
which it is desirable to hold the thread. The cam on the main shaft is provided
with a depression, which releases the lever and the rod connected with the above
mentioned disc during a portion of the movement of the needle-bar, whereby the
above described spring is permitted to press the disc against the thread. By this
device the thread is held taut and prevented from forming loops, which would
interfere with the proper operation of the needle, while the thread is permitted to
move off freely at the proper time.
A presser foot is secured to the lower end of a vertical rod or bar, which is

page_text: guided in the head of the machine; a spiral spring surrounds the upper portion of
the rod carrying the presser-foot and is secured with its lower end to the said rod.
The tension of this spring is regulated by a depending arm or plate arranged on
the front side of the face-plate and having its upper end turned backward through
a vertical slot in the face plate and provided with a perforation through which the
rod carrying the presser-foot passes. The perforated upper end of the tightener
rests upon the spring on the last named rod and slides loosely on the said rod. An
arm is provided on one of its vertical sides with a series of hooks, either of which
can be engaged with a stud secured to the face-plate. By depressing the tightener
the tension of the presser-foot spring is increased and by raising it the tension is
reduced.
A crank-wheel is countersunk in the head of the arm on the bed-plate and
secured to the main shaft and a crank-pin projects from the said wheel; a block or
plate is arranged to slide up and down over the face of the crank-wheel between
vertical guide-bars which are secured to the head. The contiguous sides of the
said block and these guide bars are preferably inclined in the form of a dovetail.
A horizontal slot is formed in the sliding block or plate for connecting the same
with the crank-pin, which latter projects through the slot and is preferably
surrounded by a rectangular box which slides in a suitable slot. A link or slotted
bar is arranged on the face of the said sliding block and attached with its lower
end to the crank-pin while its upper end is connected by a descending connecting
rod with the needle-bar. The latter is guided in vertical ways in the usual
manner. This link swings on a fulcrum pin, which is secured centrally to the
sliding block preferably provided with a rectangular box on which the link
slides and which turns on the said pin.
This last described mechanism may also be employed for actuating the plungers
of brick machines, also steam-valves, and for other purposes.
To the rear side of the head of the machine I secure an arm for supporting the
ruffler, hemmer, and other attachments. This arm is secured to the head by a set-
screw passing through a vertical elongated slot in the upper end of the arm, so
that the latter can be raised or lowered.
The lower end of the said arm is provided with a horizontal socket, in which a
horizontal bar or rod, to which the attachment may be fastened, is secured by a set-
screw. This horizontal bar carries at its forward end an arm, which is provided
with a clamp for holding the attachment. The latter is by this means secured to
the head of the machine and takes part in any vibrations which may occur in the
arm on the bed plate of the machine, and the attachment, therefore, remains always
in the same relative position with the needles. The attachment is raised or lowered
by adjusting the upper end of the arm to which it is secured, and it can be placed
at any desired angle with the bed plate by adjusting the horizontal rod in its
socket. The body of the shuttle is made of the proper form to fit in the carrier
and race provided therefor and made large enough to receive a bobbin. The side
of the shuttle which rests against the race is provided with a hinged lid, to which
is attached a tension disc. The latter is held against a boss on the inner side of
the hinged lid by a spring and set-screw. The back of the shuttle is provided
with an opening, through which a screw-driver can be introduced for turning the
set-screw and regulating the tension. The thread passes from the bobbin under
the tension-disc and then out through an opening in the upper side of the shuttle.
The shuttle is threaded by simply passing the thread under the hook of the tension-
device, then between the tension-plates and out through the top opening, and by
simply closing the hinged lid the shuttle is made ready for operation. The lid of
the shuttle is provided at its top with a lip which projects into a depression in the
body of the shuttle and prevents the thread from catching in the joint between
the lid and body at the point of the shuttle.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed
by the said Henry Harris Lake in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
27th August 1881.
HENRY HARRIS LAKE, of the Firm of Haseltine, Lake, & Co., Patent Agents,
Southampton Buildings, London. "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF
SEWING MACHINERY, WHICH IMPROVEMENTS ARE PARTLY APPLICABLE FOR OTHER
PURPOSES." A communication from abroad by John Miller Fair, of Buffalo, New
York, United States of America.
This Invention relates to improvements in sewing machines, whereby the said
machines are enabled to make either a lock stitch or a chain stitch, as may be
desired, by a simple adjustment of the parts and without adding any new parts to
the machine or removing any parts therefrom; and this Invention also relates to
various details of construction by which the said machine is rendered more
effective and convenient in operation, and some of which are applicable to other
machines.
The said Invention comprises looping mechanism whereby the chain-stitch is
formed, shuttle mechanism for forming the lock-stitch and an adjusting device,
whereby either the looping or the shuttle mechanism may be caused to co-operate
with the needle in sewing. The said Invention also comprises various details of
construction of the combined. looping and shuttle mechanism, a loose pulley of
peculiar construction, a spherical connection for driving the upright shaft which
imparts motion to the hook and shuttle mechanism, and a peculiar construction of
the feed mechanism, and the means for actuating the same. This Invention
further comprises a device whereby the spool is held on the post, and the thread
unwound therefrom without rotating the spool; a device whereby the tension-
wheel is automatically held and released; mechanism whereby the movement of
the thread to the needle-bar, and thence to the eye of the needle is automatically
controlled, and a device of peculiar construction, whereby the pressure on the
presser-foot is regulated. It also comprises a head motion device of peculiar
construction, whereby a double dip movement is imparted to the needle-bar. This
Invention further comprises an adjustable arm secured to the head of the machine
for attaching the hemmer, ruffler, and other attachments, and finally a shuttle of
peculiar construction.
In the accompanying Drawing,
Figure 1 is an elevation partly in section of a sewing machine provided with my
improvements, and
Figure 2 is an underside view thereof.
Figure 3 is a side elevation of the lower portion of the said machine.
Figure 4 is a vertical section on the line x, x, Figure 1.
Figure 5 is a vertical section on the line y, y, Figure 1.
Figure 6 is a rear elevation, and
Figure 7 a front elevation of the feed-dog.
Figure 8 is a longitudinal vertical section on the line x1, x¹, Figure 6.
Figure 9 is a front view of the sliding plate whereby the feed-dog is actuated.
Figure 10 is a plan or top view of the shuttle-race showing the looping
mechanism in an operative position.
Figure 11 is a horizontal section of the shuttle-race with the shuttle-carrier
removed.
Figure 12 is a plan or top view showing the shuttle-carrier in an operative
position.

page_text: Figure 16 is an elevation of a portion of the inside of the shuttle-race and
needle-chamber.
Figure 17 is a vertical section through the needle-chamber on the line x³, x³,
Figure 16.
Figure 18 is a front view of the head of the machine.
Figure 18 is a front view of the presser-foot.
Figure 19 is a vertical section of the upper part thereof.
Figure 20 is a vertical section on the line z, z, Figure 1, drawn to an enlarged
scale.
Figure 21 is a sectional elevation of the mechanism by which the thread is
clamped, and
Figure 22 is a rear elevation thereof.
Figure 23 is a vertical section of a loose pulley and hand-wheel hereinafter
described.
Figure 24 is a vertical section on the line 23, 23, Figure 23.
Figure 25 is a front elevation of the head-motion showing the needle-bar about
midway in its upward stroke.
Figure 26 is a similar view showing the needle-bar at the end of its downward
stroke.
Figure 27 is a similar view showing the needle-bar at the highest point of its
dip-motion.
Figure 28 is a vertical section of the said head-motion on the line x, x,
Figure 27, and
Figure 29 is a horizontal section of the same through the centre of the driving
shaft.
Figure 30 is a sectional elevation of the adjustable arm by which the attach-
ments are secured to the head of the machine.
Figure 31 is a longitudinal sectional view of the shuttle.
Figure 32 is a cross section through the shuttle with the lid open.
Figure 33 is a side view of the shuttle.
Like letters indicate the same parts throughout the Drawing.
A represents the bed-plate of the machine and A' the overhanging arm secured
thereto or cast in one piece therewith; a is the horizontal shaft which transmits
motion to the needle-bar a¹ and other parts of the machine, and which is supported
in bearings in the said arm; B is the hand wheel which is secured to the end of
the said shaft a by means of an elongated hub or sleeve b, and b' is a grooved pulley
which turns loosely on the said sleeve b between the hand-wheel and a collar b²
secured to the sleeve; 6³ is a set screw which works in a screw-threaded bore in
the end of the shaft a, and which bears with its head against a plate or washer b* inter-
posed between the head of the screw b³ and the end of the shaft a. The washer b⭑
overlaps the hub of the wheel B and is provided with two horizontal pins or bolts 65
extending through holes in the wheel B and bearing against the pulley b'. Upon
releasing the set screw 63 the pulley b' turns freely on the sleeve b without
imparting motion to the shaft a. Upon tightening the screw 68 the pins or
bolts are pressed against the pulley b' with sufficient force to transmit the
motion of the pulley 6' to the wheel B and the shaft a in which the latter is
mounted.
C is a vertical shaft which transmits motion to the looping and shuttle
mechanism. The upper end of this shaft C is supported in a bearing c formed in
one piece with the arm A¹, and its lower end projects through the bed-plate A and
carries on the underside of the same a horizontal arm c¹; c2 is an excentric secured
to the horizontal shaft a for imparting a rocking motion to the said shaft C. The
face of the excentric c is made spherical and engages with a correspondingly
shaped box which slides in a vertical frame c¹ attached to the end of a horizontal
rock arm secured to the upper end of the shaft C. The rotary motion of the
excentric c² imparts a rocking motion to the arm c³ and shaft C.
D is a vertical rock lever whereby motion is imparted to the feed mechanism

page_text: from the shaft a. This lever D is pivoted to the arm A¹ at d and is actuated by an
excentric d' mounted on the shaft a and engaging in the upper forked end of the
lever D; d² represents a connecting rod arranged underneath the bed-plate A and
attached to the lower end of the lever D by a ball and socket joint d³; F represents
a horizontal rock shaft supported underneath the bed-plate A in bearings f, f; f¹ is
an arm secured to the said shaft F near its rear end and projecting downwardly
through a spherical bearing f2 which is clamped between the jaws f³ of the con-
necting-rod d. The bearing f2 slides on the arm f¹ so that by raising and lowering
the forked end of the rod d² the bearing f2 can be adjusted towards and from the
shaft F; f' is a link pivoted with its lower end between the jaws f³ of the con-
necting rod or arm d³ and with its upper end to a set-screw f5 which projects
upward through the bed-plate A, and is held by a screw-nut fe arranged in a
bearing which prevents the [nut from` moving in the direction of the screw,
but permits it to rotate. By turning the nut in one or the other direction the
screw is raised or lowered, whereby the bearing f2 is raised or lowered on the
arm f¹, and the movement which is imparted to the rock shaft F is correspondingly
increased or reduced, thereby increasing or reducing the movement of the feed-dog
and the length of the stitch; G represents the feed-dog supported with its rear end
upon a pivot pin g and provided with an inclined slot g¹; g² represents a sliding
plate which is guided between horizontal ways g³ and provided with an inclined
projection 9 which slides in the inclided slot g₁ of the dog. The said slot g₁ is
made somewhat longer than the projection g, and the inclination of the slot g¹
and projection g' is so arranged that during the first part of the forward movement
of the slide g² the feed-dog will receive no forward movement, but will be simply
raised by the inclines until the projection g* comes in contact with the opposite end
of the slot g¹ when the forward movement of the feed-dog begins, and continues
until the slide g² has completed its stroke. During the first part of the return
movement of the slide g² the feed-dog is depressed by the inclines without moving
horizontally until the projection 9* comes in contact with the opposite end of the
slot g' when the return movement of the feed-dog begins and continues until the
slide which has completed its return stroke; 95 represents an arm secured to
the rock-shaft F and engaging in a slot go in the slide 92 so as to transmit a
reciprocating movement to the latter. The shaft F being held in a bearing near
the feed-dog and the slide g2 being guided in horizontal ways the actuating parts
are firmly guided and motion is imparted to the feed-dog without any play or dead
movement of the parts.
H represents the circular shuttle race secured in an opening in the bed-plate A
by screws passing through a flange which is formed on the upper edge of the
shuttle-race and which bears against the lower side of the bed-plate; h is the
adjustable supporting plate of the looping and shuttle mechanism. It is arranged
upon the bottom of the shuttle-race and swings on the central hub h' of the same.
The plate is held down by a screw h² entering the plate from below and
passing through a curved slot h³ in the bottom of the shuttle-race. The slot h³ is
made sufficiently long to permit the proper adjustment of the plate h. The latter
is provided with a spring bolt h* which can be made to engage in either of two
openings h³, he, formed in the bottom of the shuttle-race, thereby holding the plate
in either of two positions, in one of which the shuttle is rendered operative, and in
the other the looping mechanism is used; i is the loop detaining hook which is
employed in forming the chain-stitch. It is formed at the end of a plate I which
is pivoted to the adjustable plate hat i¹ between the hook and the hub h¹.
The plate I is provided with a loop shaped extension i surrounding the hub h¹ and
carries at one side a short upwardly projecting pin ; K is the shuttle-carrier
and the plate to which it is secured. This plate k is attached to a short upright
shaft which passes through the hub h' of the shuttle-race, and is provided at its
lower end with an arm k² which is actuated by a connecting rod k³ from the arm c¹.
The shuttle-plate k is provided on its underside with a groove composed of an inner
concentric portion 4, and an outer excentric portion extending from the end of

page_text: the concentric portion to the periphery of the shuttle-plate. The said groovek, k³,
is made of such width as to receive and actuate the pin 3 of the hook plate I.
Upon locking the plate in the position shewn in Figure 12, in which the
spring bolt h enters the opening hº, the shuttle-carrier is operated by the central
shaft without imparting any motion to the hook-plate I as the pin of the
latter is in this position entirely withdrawn from the groovek, k. In this
position of the parts the machine is properly adjusted for sewing the lock stitch.
Upon releasing the bolt hand turning the supporting or adjustable plate until the
bolt h enters the opening '/5 as shewn in Figure 10 the groove k, l, grasps the
pin 23. In this position of the parts the oscillating movement of the shuttle-plate /
is partly transmitted to the hook-plate I by the groove k³, k, and pin The
concentric portion of the groove permits the shuttle-plate k to swing without
imparting motion to the hook-plate I, only the excentric portion of the groove
being effective in oscillating the said hook-plate. By this means the stroke or
extent of movement which the shuttle-plate imparts to the hook-plate is shortened
to that which is proper for the hook-plate. The parts when in the position just
described and illustrated in Figures 10 and 11 are in the proper position for
forming the chain-stitch.
is the vertical needle-chamber formed in the front side of the shuttle-race,
and is a horizontal recess intersecting the said needle-chamber at right angles.
The recess is made concentric with the fulcrum of the hook-plate to permit the
hook to move freely through the said recess. The back of the needle-chamber
extends downward through the horizontal recess l³, and the latter is provided on
both sides of the needle-chamber with openings 12 extending through the wall of
the shuttle-race. The upper corner at the intersection of the needle-chamber with
the recess towards which the hook moves in opening the loop is provided with
an undercut lip or depending tongue 3, as shown in Figures 16 and 17; this lip
seizes the loop as the hook passes by, and the loop is thereby opened and held
open until the needle has passed through the loop in its next descent. 1 is a
grooved block which fills the opening 12 in the recess l¹ when the hook is not used
so as to form a smooth surface for the shuttle to work against. The block is
attached to the end of a lever 15 pivoted to the outside of the shuttle-race. The
lever is provided with an arm which projects into the shuttle-race and
carries a pin which engages in an excentric slot 1 formed in the plate h; this slot (7
is so formed that it will draw the block into the openings 12 when the plate h
is placed in the position in which the shuttle is used, and it will swing the block /*
out of the openings 2 when the plate h is turned into the position in which the
looping mechanism is used.
m is the spool-post rigidly secured to the arm A¹³, and m' is the supporting disc,
preferably made concave on its upper side and secured to the lower end of the
post m. m² is a clamping disc which fits closely on the post m and is preferably
provided on its underside with a conical or tapering extension or hub m³ which
enters the bore of the spool. m is a thread-guide pivoted to an upright arm
which rises from the lower disc m², so that the eye of the guide m* can be arranged
centrally over the spool-post m. The spool is placed upon the post m and the
upper disc m² is pressed down upon the spool to prevent the latter from turning.
The end of the thread is then drawn through the eye of the guide m¹ and the
thread is unwound from the spool in a steady and regular manner without
rotating the spool, thereby avoiding the irregular movement which occurs in
unwinding the thread from a rotating spool.
N is the tension-wheel turning on a stationary arbor projecting laterally from
the post n which is secured to the arm A¹. n¹ is a brake which bears against the
periphery of the said wheel N for arresting the movement of the wheel when
required. As shown in the Drawing the brake n' consists of a sliding bar or
plate arranged on the rear side of the post n to which it is attached by a screw
passing through a vertical slot in the brake-plate. The upper end of the latter is
bent so as to overlap the wheel N. The lower end of the brake-plate terminates

page_text: in a pin or rod n² which passes through an opening in a horizontal arm n³, and is
provided on the underside of the latter with a spring n which tends to hold the
brake down against the wheel. n³ is an excentric mounted on the main shaft a
and engaging with the lower end of the pin n² so as to raise the brake and
release the tension-wheel when required; this excentric n³ is so arranged on the
shaft as to cause the tension-wheel to be held during a certain portion of the
descending movement of the needle-bar.
o is an auxiliary thread controlling device secured to the arm A¹ immediately in
the rear of the needle-bar and consisting of a convex block having a V-shaped
groove at its upper side in which the thread runs. The said block o is arranged
at such a height that the thread will be clamped in the bottom of the groove
during the last portion of the downward movement of the needle-bar and be
lifted out of the groove and run off unrestricted during the upward movement of
the needle-bar. The thread controller o is screwed into the arm A¹, so that its.
height can be adjusted in accordance with the thickness of the fabric operated
upon.
p represents a disc or button arranged upon the face of the machine for pressing
against the thread with sufficient force to prevent the thread from being pushed
down by the eye of the needle and form a loop below the needle before it enters
the cloth or other material operated upon. This disc p is secured to a horizontal
rod p¹ which slides in openings in the head of the machine, and is provided with a
spring p² which tends to draw the said disc p backward. p³ is a two armed lever
pivoted to the rear side of the head of the machine above the rod p', and bearing
with its lower arm against the rod p¹ while its upper arm bears against a cam p¹
which is mounted on the shaft a. The cam p is so formed that it will hold the
disc p in a forward position or away from the thread which passes down between
the rear side of the disc p and the head of the machine except during that portion
of the downward movement of the needle-bar during which it is desirable to hold
the thread. The cam p* is provided with a depression which releases the lever p³
and the rod p' during this portion of the movement of the needle-bar, whereby
the spring p² is permitted to press the disc p against the thread. By means of this
device the thread is held taut and prevented from forming loops which would
interfere with the proper operation of the needle, while the thread is permitted to
move off freely at the proper time.
q represents the presser-foot secured to the lower end of a vertical rod or bar q¹
which is guided in the head of the machine; q2 is a spiral spring surrounding the
upper portion of the said rod q¹, to which it is secured at its lower end. The tension
of the spring q² is regulated by a depending arm or plate q³ arranged on the front
side of the face-plate A2, having its upper end turned backward through a vertical
slot q in the said plate A2, and provided with a perforation through which the
rod q¹ passes.
The perforated upper end of the tightener or plate q³ rests upon
the spring and slides loosely on the said rod q¹. The said arm or plate q³ is
provided on one of its vertical sides with a series of hooks q5, either of which can
be engaged with a stud q secured to the face plate A². By depressing the
tightener the tension of the spring is increased, and by raising it the tension is
reduced.
R represents a crank wheel which is countersunk in the head of the arm A¹
and secured to the shaft a; and r is a crank pin projecting from the said
wheel R; is a block or plate arranged to slide up and down over the face
of the crank-wheel R between vertical guide-bars which are secured to the
head. The contiguous sides of the said block r¹ and guide-bars ² are preferably
inclined in the form of a dovetail. 3 is a horizontal slot formed in the block 7+1
for connecting the same with the crank pin r, which latter projects through the
slot, and is preferably surrounded by a rectangular box which slides in the
said slot is a link or slotted bar arranged on the face of the block r¹ and
attached with its lower end to the crank pin r, while its upper end is connected by
a descending connecting rod 75 with the needle-bar a¹ which is guided in vertical

page_text: ways in the usual manner. This link swings on a fulcrum pin 7 which is
secured centrally to the sliding block r¹, and is preferably provided with a
rectangular box on which the link slides, and which turns on the said pin 76.
Assuming the parts to be in the position shown in Figure 25, upon rotating the
shaft a in the direction of the arrow, the crank pin r raises the block r¹ and the
link, which latter turns at the same time on the pin ro, with its upper end in a
direction opposite to that in which the crank-pin moves, until the crank-pin arrives
in the upper dead centre. During the downward movement of the crank pin, the
link, the block, and the connecting rod descend, forcing the needle-bar down, until
the latter arrives in its lowest position, which is represented in Figure 26, and
which occurs before the crank-pin reaches the lower dead centre. The crank-pin
now moves from right to left through the slot ³ of the block r¹, and the upper end
of the link swings from left to right in a curve, which rises towards the centre of
the shaft and descends on the opposite side, whereby the needle-bar is first slightly
raised and then lowered before its upward stroke begins. The height to which the
needle-bar is raised, between the end of its downward stroke and the beginning of
its upward stroke, can be increased or lessened by decreasing or increasing the
distance at which the fulcrum pin 76 is arranged from the crank pin r, whereby
the curve through which the upper end of the link sweeps is correspondingly
lengthened or shortened, and the size of the loop which is formed by the needle is
correspondingly increased or lessened.
This last described mechanism may also be employed for actuating the plungers
of brick machines and steam valves, and for other purposes.
T represents an arm secured to the rear side of the head of the machine for
supporting the ruffler, hemmer, and other attachments. This arm T is secured to
the head by a set-screw t, passing through a vertical elongated slot t¹ in the upper
end of the said arm, so that the latter can be raised or lowered. The lower end of
the said arm T is provided with a horizontal socket t2, in which a horizontal bar or
rod 3 (to which the attachment is fastened) is secured by a set screw t. This
bar t carries at its forward end an arm to which is provided with a clamp to for
holding the attachment. The latter is by this means secured to the head of the
machine, and takes part in any vibrations which may occur in the arm A¹, and the
attachment therefore remains always in the same relative position with the needle.
The attachment is raised or lowered by adjusting the upper end of the arm T, and
it can be placed at any desired angle with the bed-plate by adjusting the rod t³ in
its socket.
S represents the body of the shuttle made of the proper form to fit in the
carrier K and race H, and made large enough to receive a bobbin 8. The side of
the shuttle which rests against the race is provided with a hinged lid 8¹ to which is
attached a tension-disc s². The latter is held against a boss on the inner side of
the hinged lid by a spring and set-screw. The back of the shuttle is provided with
an opening 83, through which a screw-driver can be introduced for turning the set
screw and regulating the tension. The thread passes from the bobbin under the
tension-disc s³, and then out through an opening st in the upper side of the shuttle
shewn in Figure 12. The shuttle is threaded by simply passing the thread under
the book 85 of the tension-device, then between the tension-plate and its boss and
out through the top opening s*, so that by simply closing the hinged lid the shuttle
is made ready for operation. The lid s' is provided at its top with a lip, which
which projects into a depression in the body of the shuttle, and prevents the thread
from catching in the joint between the lid and body at the point of the shuttle.
Having thus fully described the said Invention as communicated to me by my
foreign correspondent, and the manner of performing the same, I wish it understood
that I claim,
First. The combination of looping and shuttle mechanism, a shuttle-race in
which such mechanism is arranged, and an adjusting device, whereby either the
hook of the looping mechanism or the shuttle can be placed in operative connection

page_text: with the needle, and an elastic chain-stitch or a lock-stitch be formed at the desire
of the operator.
Second. The combination with the circular shuttle-race H of the adjustable
supporting plate h, a plate I provided with a hook i, and a plate k provided
with a shuttle-carrier K, substantially as above set forth, and for the purposes
specified.
Third. The combination with the shuttle-plate / provided with the groove k, k³,
and mechanism whereby an oscillating movement is imparted to the plate k of the
hook-plate I provided with the pin is, substantially as above set forth and for the
purpose specified.
Fourth. In a sewing machine adapted to make either a chain or a lock stitch,
the combination with the looping-hook i of a device 13, whereby the loop is caught
and held open, substantially as above set forth.
Fifth. A shuttle-race constructed with a vertical needle chamber and an inter-
secting horizontal recess forming a projecting lip 13, whereby the loop of the
chain-stitch is opened, substantially as above set forth.
Sixth. The combination with the shuttle-race provided with a stationary needle-
chamber and openings 2 on both sides thereof of the movable block ≫, and
mechanism for adjusting the same, whereby the openings 12 can be closed when
the shuttle is used, and opened when the hook is used, substantially as above set
forth.
Seventh. The combination with the horizontal shaft a and upright shaft C of
the spherical excentric c², the sliding box c³, and the rock-arm c³, provided with
the open frame c*, substantially as above set forth.
Eighth. The combination with the rock-shaft F of an arm g³ secured to the
same, a reciprocating slide g² actuated by the said arm 95, and having an inclined
projection and a feed-dog G provided with an inclined slot g¹, substantially as
above set forth.
Ninth. The combination with the rock-lever D and the rock-shaft F of an arm f¹
secured to the said shaft F, a connecting rod d² attached to the said lever D, and
provided with a bearing f2 which slides on the said arm f¹, and a set screw and
nut whereby the connecting rod can be raised and lowered, substantially as above
set forth and for the purpose specified.
Tenth. The combination with the shaft a of the wheel B secured thereto and
provided with a sleeve b, the pulley b₁ turning loosely on the said sleeve b, the
set-screw b³, and the washer 6 provided with bolts 65 extending through the said
wheel and bearing against the loose pulley, substantially as above set forth and for
the purpose specified.
Eleventh. The combination with the spool-post m provided with a supporting
disc m¹ made concave on its upper side of the loose clamping disc m², provided
with the tapering hub m³ and a thread-guide m³, substantially as above set forth
and for the purpose specified.
Twelfth. The combination of the post n, a stationary arbor supported by the
said post, the tension-wheel N adapted to turn on the said arbor, the brake n³, the
spring n, and the excentric n³, substantially as above set forth.
Thirteenth. The combination with the needle-bar a' and the tension-wheel N of
the grooved block o arranged in the rear of the said needle-bar at such a height
that the thread will be clamped in the groove of the block during the last portion
of the downward movement of the needle-bar, and be lifted out of the groove
during the upward movement of the said needle-bar, substantially as above set
forth.
Fourteenth. The combination with the shaft a of the cam p, the lever p³, and
the clamping button p, provided with the spring p², substantially as above set forth
and for the purpose specified.
Fifteenth. The combination with the head-plate A² provided with a stud qº of
the presser-foot rod q¹, the spring 2³, the tightener q³ resting on the upper end of

page_text: the said spring and provided with hooks q adapted to engage with the stud q³,
substantially as above set forth.
Sixteenth. The combination with the bar a' and the rotating shaft a of a crank R
and crank-pin r, a block 1 sliding in vertical ways ², and provided with a
horizontal slot 3, the link swinging on a fulcrum-pin secured to the block r¹
and the rod 5, connecting the upper end of the said link with the bar a', substan-
tially as above set forth.
Seventeenth. The combination with the head of a sewing machine of the arm T
adjustably secured thereto at its upper end, and provided at its lower end with a
socket 2, and the bar 3 held in the socket t and provided. with a clamp for the
reception of the attachment, substantially as above set forth.
Eighteenth. A shuttle having its body S constructed to receive the bobbin or
ball of thread, and provided with a notch 8, an opening 83, and a lid 8 hinged to
the said body of the shuttle, and provided with a tension-disc &², substantially as
above set forth.
In witness whereof, I, the said Henry Harris Lake, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Twenty fifth day of August, in the year of our Lord
One, thousand eight hundred and eighty-one.
HENRY H. LAKE. (L.S.)