AN IMPROVED BUTTON-HOLE STITCHING APPARATUS FOR SEWING MACHINES
Year: 1874

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Levi Lincoln Atwood, of Chicago, Illinois,
United States of America, now of No. 8, Southampton Buildings,
London, for the Invention of "AN IMPROVED BUTTON-HOLE STITCHING
APPARATUS FOR SEWING MACHINES."-A communication from abroad
by Henry Elmer Townsend, of Boston, Massachusetts, United States
of America.
Sealed the 16th March 1875, and dated the 17th September 1874.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Levi Lincoln Atwood
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition,
on the 17th September 1874.
I, LEVI LINCOLN ATWOOD, of Chicago, Illinois, United States of
America, now of No. 8, Southampton Buildings, London, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention for "AN IMPROVED BUTTON-HOLE
STITCHING APPARATUS FOR SEWING MACHINES," a communication, to be as
follows:-
This Invention relates to devices for producing a button-hole stitch,
and the main object of the said Invention is to produce a device which
A

page_text: cannot fail to catch the thread, the distinguishing characteristic of the
said Invention being that the thread is drawn into the device positively
as the needle rises.
A plate, carrying the devices for catching and carrying the thread, is
inserted and secured in the bed plate. It occupies the place of the
ordinary throat plate of the machine, and is secured by set screws
in order that it may be readily removed and replaced, so that the
machine may be used for plain sewing, or for forming a button-hole
stitch, as desired.
The device for catching the thread under the fabric to be stitched is 1
mounted upon a slide, which is inserted in a slot in the said plate, and
can be moved from and towards the throat through which the needle
descends after passing through the fabric. This device is a hooked arm
mounted upon ears projecting from and fast to the said slide. The
motions of this arm are so timed that it will move back and return 1
while the needle is above the throat, and be at rest while the needle is
in the throat, for the hook upon the arm is so placed that the lower end
of the needle will pass directly through it as it descends.
The needle is slit or grooved from its outer end longitudinally, the
groove facing outward. Its arm is hung in ears upon a second slide, 2
which is also inserted in the slot in the said plate, this slot being long
enough to allow the necessary play to both the slides. The last-named
slide and the arm and needle carried by it are actuated in one direction
by a cam spring, and in the other direction by a spiral spring attached
to it. The said arm is properly guided in its motion towards the 2
needle by a suitably formed guide. In order to obtain the requisite
nicety of adjustment the guides are secured by slots and set screws to
the aforesaid plate.
•
In the sewing of button holes, in order to hold the button hole open,
a raised cover is hung to the attachment in such a manner that when a
closed over it will form a rest for the opposite edge of the button hole to
that on which the needle is operating above the plane of this edge, and
hold the same open sufficiently to prevent any interference with the
needle's movement.
I modify the said Invention in the following manner :-)
-The device for g
catching the under thread and the device for laying it upon the upper
side of the fabric are arranged upon a plate, which can be readily

page_text: applied to and removed from the sewing machine, in order that it may
be used for plain sewing or for button-hole sewing, as desired. The
device for catching the under thread is an eye drilled through a lever
near its end. This eye lies directly under the throat in the plate, so
that the needle shall descend through it, and consequently forms a part
of the throat of the machine. The throat in the plate is open, as above
described, and the under thread is drawn into the eye precisely as it is
drawn into the hook and the hole in the aforesaid slide, or it may be
passed by hand through the eye if desired; but it will be impossible for
this thread to escape from the eye unless it breaks. As this device for
catching the under thread is a hole or eye through a piece of metal, it
follows that it must always return to its position as part of the throat at
each descent of the needle, so that the needle can pass into it, and that
it must carry the under thread and return while the needle is above the
throat. This eye is formed near the end of the said lever, which is
attached by its fulcrum to the plate. The long arm of this lever is
curved slightly, both in its vertical and horizontal planes, and is parallel
with that portion of plate which is immediately under its range of
motion, and its eye may be brought directly under the throat in the
plate. This lever is actuated by a spring cam on the plate working
against a pin. When the said plate, which is secured to the shuttle
carriage, begins its forward motion this pin rests against the rear face of
a cam guide, the eye being directly under the throat. As the said plate
reaches the end of its motion the rear face of the cam strikes the said
pin, but as the long arm of the lever has a solid bearing when in this
position against part of the throat plate the said cam is forced to move
on its pivot against its spring, so that when the pin passes it flies back
into place, and upon the return movement of the plate the pin comes in
contact with the front face of the cam. The pin returns to the rear
face of the cam guide by passing between the butts of the cam and
cam guide. A second pin, attached to the arm of the elbow lever, pro-
jects downward through the throat plate, and is actuated by cams, the
said pin bearing against its rear face, pressing it out of the way against
its spring, and thereby being brought to bear against its front face.
The return motion of the second pin is caused by the rear face of one of
the last-named cams. The said elbow lever actuates a finger, which is
curved in both its vertical and horizontal planes, and provided on its
outer edge and front hand with a groove to catch the thread, and guide
it to its place on the upper side of the fabric, so that the needle shall
A 2

page_text: pass through it. This finger is connected to the elbow lever by a rod,
and its pivot is on the end of a second elbow lever, which is moved very
slightly in order to change the position of the finger by means of a
second pin projecting from the elbow lever.
In operating the machine with this attachment it has been found
necessary often times, and especially in forming the stitches around the
inner ends of button holes against which the eye of the button bears, to
have the feed regulator so present the edge of the curve of the button
hole that the stitches about this curve will be uniform with the rest of
the work. To accomplish this object I attach to one leg of the brake or
feeding device a stitch regulator, and so arrange it that the operator can
increase or diminish the rapidity of the feed at the same time without
interfering with his general management of the work. This regulator
consists of a spring with a yoke attached loosely to its upper end, which
is secured to the arm of the usual rock shaft. The lower end of this
shaft is connected with the usual leg for clutching the feed wheel.
This spring is flat, and its lower end is provided with a wedge-shaped
piece having a curved oblong slot or opening below, which projects a
handle. The material forming this slot is made wedge shaped longi-
tudinally. The slot, in attaching the spring to the leg of the brake, is
slipped on the rod connecting the leg of the brake to the brake of the
machine, and over it are placed the ordinary thumb nuts to regulate the
feed and length of stitch. Instead of using these thumb nuts I prefer
to use the stitch regulater.
According to another modification of the Invention the bed picce to
which the mechanism is attached is secured to the overhanging arm by
clamps, so as to bring the mechanism in proper relation to the needle
and throat of the machine. The under thread catcher forms part of the
throat of the machine as above described, but moves diagonally towards
the path of the needle, instead of nearly at right angles thereto. This
under thread catcher is a blunt needle with an elongated eye at its lower
end, and is secured in the reciprocating slide mounted on the bed piece.
This blunt needle is operated by a slotted cam pivotted on the side of the
bed piece, and actuated by a link connected to the needle bar or the needle
arm, a pin on the said slide entering a slot in the cam. As the swing
needle begins its downward movement the said cam moves the slide
downward, carrying with it the blunt needle which arrives in position first
with its elongated eye directly under the point of the sewing needle which

page_text: descends and passes through the eye of the looper. The blunt needle
passes obliquely through the throat of the machine, a throat plate having
a throat in it to receive both the sewing needle, and the blunt needle being
substituted for the ordinary throat plate, just over and so as to clear the
shuttle and under the rim of the feed wheel or under the feed ratchet.
A finger is pivoted at its upper end to the bed piece; this finger is made
in two parts hinged together to permit its lower portion to be turned up
out of the way when desired, and this lower portion is held in place by a
double crank and spring. This crank presses the lower portion of the
finger against the cam plate, which is so formed as to properly guide the
finger as it moves forward, and to bring it into its proper relation to
the needle when it is thrown clear back.
The throat plate consists of a single narrow plate secured to the bed'
of the machine transversely across the shuttle race. This plate is
provided with a hole at its outer end for the passage of the needle and
looper, and with a larger hole at its opposite end for a screw by which it
is secured to the bed of the machine. It has also a small stud or pin
projecting from its upper face in front of the needle hole, this pin. is
intended to enter the slit forming the button hole, and thus serve to
hold it open
to permit the looper to pass through it, and also to operate
as a guide, against which the edge of the fabric rests as it moves along,
thus holding the fabric so that it shall not crowd or work over in the
way of the looper, and cause the needle to enter the fabric at a uniform
distance from the edge.
This attachment or apparatus may be applied to a machine with a
vibrating needle arm or to a machine which has a rotating shaft
instead of the vibrating arm for operating the needle. In the latter
case the slotted cam is dispensed with and motion is imparted to the
looper slide by means of an elbow lever pivetted to an arm of the
bracket, the short arm of the lever is provided with a pin which
engages in a cam groove on a wheel secured to the end of the rotating
shaft, the groove being so formed as to give the looper the required
movements. In this case a spring bolt which rides over the incline on
the finger is applied to a connecting link, and operates the same as when
applied to the cam in the other case. In the last described attachment
when the looper is drawn up, the upper part of the thread forming the
loop is almost directly above the lower part of the thread. The upper
part of this thread must be caught by the end of the aforesaid finger,

page_text: and there is much practical difficulty in so regulating the motion of the
finger that there will be no danger of its catching both parts of this
thread, and yet make it certain to catch the upper part of the thread,
for the end of the finger must move back far enough to get behind
the upper thread, but if it moves even a very little more than this
there is danger of its catching the other thread as well. I obviate
these difficulties by so changing the relative positions of the threads at
the time the finger moves back that the aforesaid finger may be thrown
well back, and thus make it certain to catch the first thread without
danger of its catching the second thread. This object is accomplished
by giving the looper a motion on its axis in addition to its reciprocating
motion, which carries the upper thread toward and the lower thread
away from the path of the end of the finger. For actuating the said
finger I substitute a pin and cam slots for the pins, stops, cams, and
catch above described.
In the above described attachment all the parts are secured to a bed
plate which is fixed in the desired position by means of set screws, but
when it is removed it is difficult for an unskilled person to replace it and
readjust it with the necessary accuracy. I therefore make the bed.
plate in two portions, one detachable from or moving on the other, so
that while one part is always firmly attached to the overhanging arm,
the other part may be readily put and kept out of the way, and when
replaced will invariably assume and be held in its former position without
requiring adjustment.
When a screw is taken out the moveable part may be swung back,
and by putting the screw in another hole the attachment is kept out of
the way. The fixed part is adjusted by set screws in the usual way, and
need never be separated from the sewing machine. Instead of swinging
the moveable part the hinge may be dispensed with, and the lower part
of the bed plate with the attachment removed wholly from the machine.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Levi Lincoln Atwood in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 17th March 1875.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, LEVI
LINCOLN ATWOOD, of Chicago, Illinois, United States of America, now 3
of No. 8, Southampton Buildings, London, send greeting.

page_text: WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Seventeenth day of September, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-four, in the thirty-
eighth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors,
give and grant unto me, the said Levi Lincoln Atwood, Her special licence
that I, the said Levi Lincoln Atwood, my executors, administrators, and
assigns, or such others as I, the said Levi Lincoln Atwood, my executors,
administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no
others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the term
thercin expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland,
the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "AN IMPROVED
BUTTON-HOLE STITCHING APPARATUS FOR SEWING MACHINES," a communication
to me from abroad by Henry Elmer Townsend, of Boston, Massa-
6 chusetts, United States of America, upon the condition (amongst
others) that I, the said Levi Lincoln Atwood, my executors or
administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or
one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was
to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Scal
Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately after
the date of the said Letters Patent.
· NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Levi Lincoln Atwood, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same
5 is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement, reference being had to the accompanying
Drawing forming a part of this Specification: _
This Invention relates, first, to devices for producing a button-hole
stitch along and over the edge of the material sewed; and the main
object of the said Invention is the producing a device which cannot fail
to catch the thread, the distinguishing characteristic of the said In-
vention being that the thread is drawn into the device positively as the
needle rises.
This part of the said Invention is illustrated in Figures 1 to 8 of the
רד
C
Thi

page_text: The other Figures show details of the mechanism for actuating the
main parts, and illustrate the principle of the said Invention.
The devices for catching and carrying the thread are shewn attached
to the plate 1, and the devices for actuating these first-named devices
are shown attached to the shuttle carriage 2.
A is the bed of the sewing machine; B is the shuttle race. The
plate 1, carrying the devices for catching and carrying the thread, is
inserted and secured in the bed A. In the machine shewn it occupies.
the place of the ordinary throat plate of the machine, and is secured by
set screws in order that it may be readily removed and replaced, so that
the machine may be used for plain sewing or for forming a button-holo
stitch, as desired.
"
The device for catching the thread under the fabric to be stitched is
mounted upon a slide D which is inserted in a slot in the plate 1, so
that it can be moved from and toward the throat, through which the
needle descends after passing through the fabric. This device is a
hooked arm E mounted upon cars attached to and projecting from the
slide D. The motions of this arm are so timed that it will move back
and return again to the position shown in Figure 1 while the needle is
above the throat, and be at rest while the needle is in the throat, for the
hook upon the arm is so placed that the lower end of the needle will
pass directly through it as it descends. A loop of the needle thread is
carried down through the hook by the needle. The shuttle thread is
then carried through this loop in the usual manner, consequently when
the needle. rises and the needle thread is drawn upward to form the
stitch the shuttle thread must be drawn directly into the hook, unless
one of the threads break. While the needle is rising the under thread
is drawn by this hook into position to be caught by the device, which
lays the loop of the under thread on the upper side of the fabric, so that
the needle at its next descent will pass through it. The under thread
remains constantly in the hook, but should it by accident escape from
the said hook in the return of the same it is again drawn into the hook,
as above described. As an additional precaution the slide D has a
throat formed in it, through which the under thread is drawn precisely
as it is drawn into the hook, and from which it cannot escape, except by
the breaking of the thread. The throat in plate 1 must be open toward
the slot in the plate 1. This open throat in the plate 1, the hook, and

page_text: the throat in the slide D form the real throat of the machine, the needle
working through them, and the under thread extending through them
from the fabric to the shuttle, precisely as the needle works through, and
the under thread extends through the throat of an ordinary shuttle
machine. The slide D receives its motions from the elbow lever F, which
is actuated in one direction by the projection G on the plate H fixed to
the shuttle carriage 2, and in the other direction by a spring attached to
the short arm of the crank lever. As this slide and the hooked arm aro
moved away from the throat, carrying the under thread with them, a pin
on the arm playing between guides I and J (more clearly shown in
Figure 5) causes the arm to rise sufficiently to bring the thread into the
said device, which lays it in a loop on the upper side of the fabric, so
that the needle shall pass through it. This latter device is a needle K
secured in a sleeve in the arm L. The needle K is slit or grooved from
its outer end longitudinally. Its arm L is hung in ears upon a second
slide M, which is also inserted in the slot in the said plate 1, this slot
being long enongh to allow the necessary play to both the slides. This
slide M and the arm and needle carried by it are actuated in one
direction by the cam spring N on the projection on the plate H, and in
the other direction by the spiral spring attached to it. The arm Lis
properly guided in its motion toward the needle by a suitably formed
guide O. To obtain the requisite nicety of adjustment the guides I, J,
and O are secured by slots and set screws to the plate I.
•
The diagrams, Figures 7, 8, 9, and 10, are intended to make more
clear the manner in which the thread under the fabric is drawn into its
carrier.
In the sewing of button holes in order to hold the button hole open
a raised cover P is hung to the attachment in such manner that when
closed over the same it will form a rest for the edge of the button hole
opposite to that on which the needle is operating above the plane of this
edge, and hold the same open sufficiently to prevent any interference
with the needle's movement.
In the modification of this Invention illustrated in Figures 11 to 17,
I substitute for the aforesaid hook an arm with a hole drilled through it,
or more properly, a blunt needle with an eye near its end.
Figure 11 is a plan of the bed of a sewing machine in which a plate
bearing the mechanism for catching and carrying the under thread has

page_text: been substituted for the ordinary throat plate of the machine; Figure 12,
shews the same with the plate removed.
Figure 13 shews the plate and mechanism detached from the bed of
the machine.
it
The device for catching the under thread, and the device for laying
upon the upper side of the fabric, are arranged upon a plate B which
can be readily applied to and removed from the sewing machine in order
that it may be used for plain sewing, or for button hole sewing, as
desired. The device for catching the under thread is an eye drilled
through a lever C near its end. This eye lies directly under the throad
in the plate B, so that the needle shall descend through it, and con-
sequently forms a part of the throat of the machine. The throat in tho
plate B is open as above described, and the under thread is drawn into
the eye precisely as it is drawn into the hook, and the hole in the afore-
said slide; or it may be passed by hand through the eye if desired; it
will be impossible for this thread to escape from the eye unless it breaks.
As this device for catching the under threat is a hole or eye through
a piece of metal, it follows that it must always return to its position as
part of the throat at each descent of the needle, so that the needle can
pass into it, and that it must carry the under thread and return while
the needle is above the throat. This eye is formed near the end of the
lever C, which is attached by its fulcrum m to plate B. The long arm
of this lever is curved slightly both in its vertical and horizontal planes,
and is parallel with that portion of the plate B which is immediately
under its range of motion, and its eye may be brought directly under
the throat in the plate B. This lever is actuated by the spring cam b¹
on the plate A working against the pin i.. When the plate A which is
secured to the shuttle carriage begins its forward motion the pin i rests
against the rear face of the cam or guide k, the eye being directly under
the throat. As the plate A reaches the end of its motion the rear face
of the cam ¹ strikes the pin i, but as the long arm of the lever C has
a solid bearing when in this position against part of blade B, the cam 6¹
is forced to move on its pivot against its spring c, so that when the pin i
passes it flies back into place, and upon the return movement of the
plate A the pin i comes in contact with the front faces of the cam b¹,
thus throwing the lever into the position shown in Figure 11. The pin i
returns to the rear face of the cam k by passing between the butts of
the cams and b¹.

page_text: A pin j attached to the arm e of the elbow lever E projects downward
through the plate B, and is actuated by the cams a and b ; the former is
a spring cam, the pin j bearing against its rear face, pressing it out of the
way against its spring, and thereby being brought to bear against its
front face. The return motion of the pin j is produced by the rear face
of the cam b. The elbow lever E is thus moved back and forth on its
fulcrum, and its motions actuate the finger F, which is curved in both its
vertical and horizontal planes, and provided on its outer edge and front
end with a groove to catch the thread and guide it to its place on the
upper side of the fabric so that the needle shall pass through it. This
finger F is connected to the elbow lever E by the rod h, and its pivot is
on the end of a second elbow lever D, which is moved very slightly in
order to change the position of the finger by means of a second pin,
projecting upward from the arm e of the lever E, and entering a link on
the arm d of the lever D. The lever D therefore is moved only when
the lever E has nearly completed its motions. To the under side of the
plate B is attached at one end a straight spring q, shown by dotted lines
in Figure 11, its free end being toward the throat of the machine.
The upper thread is adjusted as usual, and also the lower thread,
except that it is passed between the spring 9 and plate B, and then
through the eye in the blunt needle C if the lever is thrown back as
shown in Figure 11. The spring 7 is for the purpose of securing a more
perfect tension. The needle descends through the open throat in the
plate B and through the eye in C, carrying its thread, through the loop.
of which the shuttle passes in the usual way, and as the shuttle returns.
the devices take the position clearly shown in Figure 11. This position
is taken almost immediately after it commences its return, and as it
continues its return the hook F catches the lower or shuttle thread in
the groove on its end and carries it forward over the throat, the long
arm of the lever O quickly following it and taking a position with its
eye directly under the throat; at the same instant the arms fand g of
the elbow levers D and E move a short distance in the direction of the
forward line of the shuttle, carrying the hook F with them, which by this
motion spreads or opens the thread into a loop, gets out of the way of
tho needle, and returns to its former position. As it returns the needle
goes through the loop thus formed, and through the throat in the plate
and the eye in the end of the lever C, carrying its thread with it, through 1
the loop of which the shuttle again passes, then as the needle ascends

page_text: and as soon as it rises from the throat, the arm of the lever C draws the
stitch tight.
In operating the machine with this attachment I have found it
necessary oftentimes to have the feed regulator so present the edge
of the curve of the button hole, that the stitches about this curve
will be uniform with the rest of the work. For this purpose it is.
necessary that the feed shall gradually move more rapidly, as the
stitches are worked from the beginning of the curve to its highest point,
and in like manner move slower as it passes from this point to the
straight edge of the button hole. To accomplish this object I attach to
the leg I of the brake or feeding device a stitch regulator or device for,
regulating the feed as desired, and so arrange it that the operator can
increase or diminish the rapidity of the feed at the same time without
interfering with his general management of the work. This device is
shown in Figures 15, 16, 17, and consists of a spring J with a yoke "
attached loosely to its upper end, which yoke crosses and is secured to the
arm I of the usual rock shaft. The lower end of this spring is connected.
by the roď v with the leg for clutching the feed wheel. This spring
is flat; its lower end is provided with a wedge-shaped piece T, having a
curved oblong slot or opening S below, which projects a handle K, as
shown in Figure 16, which is a front view. The material forming this
slot is made wedge-shaped longitudinally, as clearly shewn in section in
Figure 17, the smaller end being at t and the larger at u. The slot S in
attaching the spring to the leg of the brake is slipped on the rod v con-.
necting the leg of the brake to the brake itself of the machine, and over
it are placed the thumb nuts L to regulate the length of the rod v, and
through it the feed and length of stitch. Instead of using these thumb-
nuts I use my stitch regulator. But by means of this device the rod v.
is gradually lengthened or shortened by simply swinging or turning the
stitch regulator backward or forward, the wedge-shaped piece T and the
action of the spring accomplishing this result.
According to another modification of this Invention, which is illus-
strated in Figures 18 to 22, the bed piece B, to which the mechanism is
attached, is secured to the overhanging arm by clamps, so as to bring
the mechanism in proper relation to the needle and throat of the
machine. The under thread catcher forms part of the throat of the
machine, but moves diagonally towards the path of the needle instead of
as in former attachments nearly at right angles thereto. This under

page_text: thread catcher is the blunt needle I with an elongated eye at its lower
end, and is secured in the reciprocating slide C mounted on the bed
picce B. The needle I is operated by a slotted cam D, pivoted on the
side of the bed piece B, and actuated by a link c connected to the needle
bar or the needle arm, a pin e on the slide C entering the slot in the
cam D.. As the sewing needle begins its downward movement the
cam D moves the slide C downward, carrying with it the needle I which
arrives in position first, with its elongated eye directly under the point
of the sewing needle, which descends and passes through the eye of the
looper. After the pin e enters, and while it is in that part of the slot
which is concentric (from u to u¹), the needle I remains stationary, and
during this time the shuttle passes through the loop of the needle thread;
and the sewing needle is drawn up out of the eye of the needle I, the
latter rising again after the pin e leaves this concentric portion of the
slot. The needle I passes obliquely through the throat of the machine
(a throat plate J having a throat in it to receive both the sewing needle,
and the needle I being substituted for the ordinary throat plate) just
over and so as to clear the shuttle, and under the rim of the feed wheel
or under the feed ratchet.
The finger E is pivoted at its upper end to the bed piece B. The
general form of this finger is shown in detached views in Figure 18; it
is made in two parts hinged together to permit its lower portion to. be
turned up out of the way when desired, and this lower portion is held in
place by the double crank f and spring 9. This crank ƒ presses the
lower portion of the finger E against the cam plate k, which cam plate
is so formed as to properly guide the finger E as it moves forward, and
to bring it in its proper relation to the needle I when it is thrown clear
back. The lower part of the finger E is held in place when turned up
by the same crank f, the spring g then acting on the other side of the
dead point, and the crank bearing against a pint in the lower part of
the finger E. The cam m is acted upon by the pine of the slide C as
its ascends, and the lower part of the finger E is thus thrown back to
its rearmost position, its motion across the axis on which the finger E.
is pivoted being determined by the shape of the cam plate k. At the
same time a bolt / rides up over the incline n and engages with the
upper face of the incline n, so that as the cam descends this bolt / slides
against the rear face of the incline n, and thus throws the finger E
forward until the bolt passes the incline, the point of the finger moving.

page_text: past the needle I and the sewing needle, as in Figure 18 (where it
remains until the sewing needle descends), and being guided in this
movement by the cam plate k. The point of the finger E remains in
this position until the cam w is struck by the toe piece V on the
needle bar, which moves the finger E back past the sewing needle,
where it remains until the pin e acts upon the cam m, as before.
The throat plate J, as represented in Figure 22, consists of a single
narrow plate secured to the bed of the machine, transversely across the
shuttle race, as shown in Figures 18 and 19. This plate J is provided
with a hole P at its outer end for the passage of the needle and looper,
and with a larger hole at its opposite end for a screw by which it is
secured to the bed of the machine. It has also a small stud or pin v
projecting from its upper face in front of the needle hole, this pin being
intended to enter the slit forming the button hole, and thereby serve to
hold it open so as to permit the looper to pass through it and also to
operate as a guide against which the edge of the fabric rests as it moves
along, thus holding the fabric so that it shall not crowd or work over in
the way of the looper, and causing the needle to enter the fabric at a
uniform distance from the edge.
In Figures 18, 19, and 20, the attachment is represented as applied to
that class of machines which have a vibrating needle arm; but in
Figure 21 it is represented as applied to that class of machines which
have a rotating shaft instead of the vibrating arm for operating the
needle. In such cases the cam D is dispensed with and motion is
imparted to the looper slide by means of an elbow lever L pivoted to an
arm of the bracket. B, as shown in Figure 21, the short arm of the lever
being provided with a pin h which engages in a cam groove on the
wheel R secured to the end of the rotating shaft, the groove being so
formed as to give to the lever L and consequently to the looper I the
required movements. In this case the spring bolt which rides over
the incline n on the finger E is applied to the connecting link c and
operates the same as when applied to the cam in the other case. The
shuttle and needle being threaded as for ordinary sewing, and the throat
plate and attachment being secured in position, the cloth is placed under
the foot with the pin v in the slit or button hole or against the edge of a
the fabric; and the machine is then set in motion. As it starts the
looper I passes obliquely through the slit under the edge of the material
until its eye comes directly under the sewing needle, which descends and

page_text: passes through the fabric and also through the eye of the looper and
down past the shuttle P, the latter passing through the needle loop in
the usual manner. The needle is then drawn up, and as it rises out of
the eye of the needle I the latter is also drawn back to the position
shown in Figure 19, the thread of the sewing needle as it is drawn up
through the eye of the needle I bringing the shuttle thread o with it.
At this instant the lower forked end of the finger E engages with that
part of the shuttle thread which is between the needle I and the cloth,
and immediately carries it over the upper side of the fabric, thereby
forming a loop directly under the sewing needle, as shown in Figure 18,
so that as the needle descends it passes through this loop and thus locks
the shuttle thread at that point. As soon as the needle has fairly entered
the loop above the cloth the toe V strikes against the cam w, thereby
pushing the finger back to a position directly at the rear of the needle,
and alongside of the looper, where it remains until the looper rises, when
it is acted upon by the pin e, as above described.
In the last described attachment when the looper is drawn up the upper
part of the thread a forming the loop is almost directly above the lower
part b, as illustrated in the diagram, Figure 36. The upper part of this
thread a must be caught by the end of the finger E, and there is much
practical difficulty in so regulating the motion of finger E that there will
be no danger of its catching both these threads and yet make it certain
to catch thread a, for the end of finger E must move back far enough to
get behind thread a, but if it moves but a very little more than this.
there is great danger of its catching thread b as well. I obviate this.
difficulty by so changing the relative positions of the threads a and b at
the time the finger moves back that the finger E may be thrown well
back and thus make it certain to catch thread a without danger of its
catching thread b. This object is accomplished by giving the looper a
motion on its axis in addition to its reciprocating motion which carrics.
the thread a toward and the thread from the path of the end of the
finger E. The mechanical means used for effecting this object are so
simple that they will be clearly understood from the Drawings without
further description. This part of my Invention is illustrated in Figures
23 to 36.
For actuating the finger E I employ a pin y and cam slots as used
in the "Howard and Jackson" attachment as now constructed. On
reference to Figures 25, 26, and 27, it will be seen that during the time'

page_text: the sewing needle is in the fabric the pin y is in the concentric portion of
the slot U and the finger does not move, but when the sewing needle has
risen and the thread catcher has moved upward and revolved the pin y
moves into and through the slot X and thus throws the finger E back
past the end of the thread catcher so as to catch the thread. At the end
of the slot the pin y rides over the bolt L, moving against the spring I
and passing it, and is prevented by the bolt from passing back through
the slot X as the cam turns in the opposite direction, and is forced into
and through the slot W, thus throwing forward the finger E over the
face of the cam K to the other side of the sewing needle, where it
remains until the needle has gone through its loop, when it is thrown
back by striking the incline of the slot at V, which throws it into its
original position.
In the attachment all the parts are attached to a bed plate, which is
secured in the desired position by means of set screws, but when it is
removed it is difficult for an unskilled person to replace it and readjust
it with the necessary accuracy. I therefore make the bed plate in two
portions, one detachable from or moving on the other, so that while one
part is always firmly attached to the overhanging arm the other part
may be readily put and kept out of the way, and when replaced will
invariably assume and be held in its former position without requiring
adjustment. I effect this object by making the bed plate in two parts C
and D, which can be fitted together by means of a pin, wedge, or screw.
In the attachment shewn a taper thumbscrew his used, and thus the
movable part of the bed plate is brought into the desired position in
relation to the fixed part without affecting the adjustment of the fixed
part.
When the screw is taken out the movable part may be swung back,
and another hole in the movable part brought opposite the holes in the
fixed part D, so that by putting in the screw again the attachment is
kept out of the way. The fixed part is adjusted by set screws, and need
never be separated from the sewing machine.
Instead of swinging the movable part the hinge may be dispensed
with, and the lower part of the bed plate with the attachment removed
wholly from the machine or placed as shown.
Having thus fully described the said Invention, as communicated to
me by my foreign correspondent, and the manner of performing the
same, I wish it understood that I claim,-

page_text: In relation to the part of my Invention illustrated in Figures 1 to 10
of the Drawings,-
First. The arrangement of the device for catching the under thread in
a button hole sewing machine; so that it will form a portion of the
5 throat of the machine, as and for the purpose specified.
Second. The combination of the hooked arm E and slit needle K
aranged to operate together; and with reference to the ordinary sewing
mechanism, as herein described and for the purpose specified.
Third. The combination of the hooked arm, slit needle, under thread
2 carrier, and connecting mechanism, as above described and for the
purpose specified.
And in relation to the part of my said Invention illustrated. in
Figures 11 to 17 of the Drawings,-
Fourth. The improved under thread catcher consisting of an arm
with an eye near its end when constructed and operating, so that it
shall move away from the throat of the machine with the under thread
while the needle is above it, and return to the throat, so that the needle
shall pass through it at each descent, as herein set forth.
Fifth. The vibrating finger F constructed and arranged as described,
and moving not only on its pivot, but also bodily in order to carry the
under thread up over the edge of the fabric, and then move out of the
way of the needle, as herein set forth.
Sixth. The special mechanism for giving the two motions to the
finger F above set forth, the said mechanism consisting of the two elbow
levers D, E, connected by the pin on one arm of the lever E, and the
link on one arm of the lever D.
Seventh. A thread carrier and catcher as above described provided
with pins i, j, and operated by cams a, b, b', and k, substantially as set
forth.
Eighth. The pivoted wedge-shaped piece T in combination with the
rocking arm I for varying the extent of the feed motion; as herein
described.
:
And in relation to the part of my Invention illustrated in Figures 18
to 22 of the Drawings,―
Ninth. The needle I constructed as described and arranged to move
B

page_text: from above diagonally across the line of the needle's movement under
the fabric, and over the lower thread carrier, as herein set forth and for
the purpose specified.
Tenth. The finger E in combination with the mechanism to give
it the forward and backward motions, and operating as herein
.described.
Eleventh. The guide plate % in combination with the finger E, the
whole operating as herein described.
Twelfth. The hinged finger E in combination with the spring. crank f,
so arranged that the finger can be turned up out of the way for plain
sewing.
And in relation to the part of my Invention illustrated in Figures 23
to 36 of the Drawings,-
Thirteenth. The improved looper having an eye in which it receives the
needle and retains the thread, and having a motion on its axis in
addition to its reciprocating motion, as above specified.
Fourteenth. The finger in combination with the pin y and cam, as
herein described.
Fifteenth. The compound bed plate made in two parts C and D,
combined substantially as above described.
Sixteenth. The compound thread catcher and its actuating mechanism,
the finger and its actuating mechanism, and the compound bed
plate C, D, all combined as above described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Levi Lincoln Atwood, have here-
unto set my hand and seal, this Thirteenth day of March, One?
thousand eight hundred and seventy-five.
Witness,
HENRY JAMES NOONE.
L. L. ATWOOD. (L.S.)