Improvements in Sewing Machines for the Production of Ornamental or Tambour Stitching.
Year: 1891

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Sewing Machines for the Production of Ornamental
or Tambour Stitching.
Communicated from abroad by HERMANN HARTIG, of Kaendler, in the German
Empire, Engineer.
I, CHRISTEN REES BONNE of 57 and 58 Chancery Lane in the City of London
Gentleman do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement :-
29
The object of this invention is the adaptation of sewing machines, especially those
of the "Grover Baker type in which a circular needle is employed, to the
production of ornamental or tambour stitching.
According to this invention, the needle bar of the Grover Baker or similar
sewing machine is provided with one or more needles so arranged and operated
that they move in the direction of the stitching at certain angles according to the
work to be produced. This movement is effected simultaneously with their ordinary
vertical or up and down motion and may be utilized either for the purpose of
producing a straight stitching with short and long stitches alternately in the direction
in which the material is moved, or for the purpose of producing a zigzag stitching
either at right angles or diagonally to such direction. In the first mentioned case
a so-called "loop-former" as described in the Specification of my Letters Patent
No. 4852 dated 20th March 1889 may be employed in the formation of the
stitches.
In order that my invention may be clearly understood, I will proceed to describe
the same with reference to the accompanying sheet of drawings:-
-
Fig. 1 is side elevation of sewing machine having my improved arrangements
adapted thereto.
Fig. 2 front elevation.
Fig. 3 cross section of needle bar and attachment.
Fig. 4 plan of machine.
Figs. 5, 6, 7, 8, and 9, detail views of mechanism.
Figs. 10, 11, 12, and 13 represent different forms of stitching produced by the
machine constructed according to my invention.
In
In these figures, similar letters of reference represent corresponding parts. The
needle bar a is free to turn and is surrounded by fixed collars a¹ a¹ underneath
which is horizontal arm b with vertical pin & thereon, the pin 6 sliding in guide c
to which a to and fro motion is imparted by cams or equivalent mechanical
contrivances, as indicated in Figures 1 and 4. The arrangement of the needles in
the needle bar a may be varied according to the requirements of the work.
Figs. 7 and 8 are shown two positions, in which the needles (m. n. Fig. 8
and p. q. Fig. 7) may be arranged relatively to the direction of the stitching, which
The needle bar has
direction is in each of these figures indicated by the arrow.
attached to it the short adjustable arm d. When only one needle is inserted, in
such a way that it moves to and fro along the stitching when the needle bar a
oscillates, then the stitching will consist of alternate short and long stitches
(Fig. 12). The feed mechanism pushes the work forward at regular intervals,
represented by the lengths to s, sto t, and so on, but when the work is moved up
to r, the needle moves to r', producing the stitch at that point, and when the work
is moved up to points the needle is turned to point s'. The use of two needles,
with the forward movement in the direction of the stitching as before, results in the
production of the stitching shown in Fig. 13. In like manner, a greater number
of needles may be employed, and in order to obtain loops of required dimensions

page_text: in the production of this ornamental or tambour stitching, I prefer to employ the
loop former to Fig. 5, around which the thread is laid when the circular needle
moves in the direction of the arrow: The movable attachment B (Fig. 5) serves
to push the loop away from loop former to, and to press it against the goods (D)
while the needle penetrates the goods, the loop former w meanwhile moving in
a backward direction. Whether the stitches are long or short, the loops would
be of even lengths if the loop former remained in the same position, but for the
production of stitching with alternate short and long loops as above set forth,
the loop former w and attachment B for supporting the loops are moved to and
fro with the needle or needles in the direction of the stitching. Both contrivances
are actuated by lever E (Fig. 1) which at the same time turns the needle bar, as
follows: On the underside of the sewing machine plate, there is a bolt J (Fig. 4)
guided in slot and connected with lever J³ centred at J' by screw J¹. To
lever J³ are attached at K. K¹ (Figs. 4 and 6) rods B³ ³ carrying respectively
attachment B, and loop former w. The attachment B is moved to and fro as well
as vertically by eccentric B¹, with which it may be kept in contact by a spring.
The loop former to is however, only raised by its eccentric w₁ and lowered by a
spring. To enable both long and short stitches to be produced, the loop former w
and attachment B both moving in the direction of the stitching, the lever E has a
pini, which, as shown dotted in Fig. 4, catches in slot of a shoulder of bolt J.
When lever E moves actuated by the curve of disc F¹, which turns once in two
rotations of main shaft G, then bolt J, and with that lever J³, moves at each
stitch either in the direction of arrow 1 or of arrow 2 and these movements are trans-
mitted through the said parts K and 132, or K' and w³ respectively. In the formation
of the long stitches in the work, the thread of the lower spool L, after it has
passed the brake L' is passed over the arm M pivotted on end of shaft M', so as
to give the requisite length of thread for such long stitches. At the opposite
extremity of shaft M' is roller M' pressing against eccentric M³. This being con-
nected with curved disc F1, the thread is pressed down and drawn off as soon as
the circular needle frees it to form a small loop or leaves it loose for a large loop.
The turning of the needle may be prevented when required by rod c taking into
cutting E' of lever E. The needles then only move vertically and the stitches
are of equal length, but the loop former being pushed in the direction of the
stitching, short and long loops may be formed alternately of similar appearance to
those produced when the needles are allowed to turn. The kind of stitching
produced by an ordinary "Grover-Baker" machine can likewise be produced with
the improved machine constructed according to my invention without the loop
former as above described. If a needle is arranged in the needle bar so that
it oscillates diagonally in relation to the stitching then the zig-zag stitch shown
in Fig. 10 is produced.
In order to produce this zig zag stitch a thread holder (A. Fig. 9) is required,
for when the needle has penetrated the goods at point x, and the material is moved
forward by the length of a stitch, then the stitch is at point z, and the under thread
will then take up the position shown in dotted lines after the circular needle.
When the sideways motion has taken place and the needle penetrates the goods
at y, the thread of the circular needle is required to be laid round the needle, and
to unite with the needle thread. To effect this, the thread holder A catches the
thread before the descent of the needle, and pushes it away in such a manner
that, as shown in Fig. 9, the needle must of necessity descend behind it. The
thread holder A is screwed free to turn on stitching plate above the circular
needle, an arm A' is connected with lever A³ (Figs. 1 and 9) the latter being
held against eccentric A³ (Fig. 1) by means of a spring. When two needles are
used, which are likewise moved to and fro diagonally relatively to the stitch then
the stitch shown in Fig. 11 is produced. The thread holder A lays the loop over
two needles as at n. n. or it may be without the said thread holder laid over one
needle at o, whereas if only one needle were employed, it would not be laid round
the needle and no stitch would be formed. When it is required to change from

page_text: short and long loops to the zig-zag stitching then the stitching plate with
feed mechanism and presser are exchanged and the loop former w replaced by
thread holder A.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
-
(1.) In a sewing machine of the "Grover-Baker" or similar type, the needle or
needles arranged and operated to produce ornamental or tambour stitching in
straight or zig-zag lines with alternate long and short loops in the same direction
as or at an angle to the movement of the work, substantially as hereinbefore set
forth and described.
(2.) In a sewing machine for producing ornamental or tambour stitching, the
mechanism comprising adjustable arm d. arm with pin sliding in guide c
actuated by lever E and curved disc or eccer tric F', substantially as and for the
purposes hereinbefore set forth and described and illustrated by the accompanying
drawings.
(3.) In a sewing machine for producing ornamental or tambour stitching, the
mechanism comprising bolt J, lever J³ rods B³, w², attachment B and loop former w,
operated by eccentrics, substantially as and for the purposes herein before set forth
and described and illustrated by the accompanying drawings.
M on
(4.) In a sewing machine for producing ornamental or tambour stitching, the
mechanism comprising arm
shaft M', roller M, eccentric M³, sub-
stantially as and for the purpose described and illustrated by the accompanying
drawings.
(5.) In a sewing machine for producing ornamental or tambour stitching, the
mechanism comprising thread holder A, with arm A', lever A³ and eccentric A³,
substantially as and for the purpose hereinbefore described and illustrated by the
accompanying drawings.
C. R. BONNE & Co.,
Registered Patent Agents, 57 & 58, Chancery Lane, London, E.C.,
Agents for the Applicant.