Improv CHC Manufacture o Пасо ани TIKU аци in the Means Employed in the Production of the same.
Year: 1886

page_text: Date of Application, 15th Dec., 1886
Complete Left, 13th Sept., 1887
Complete Accepted, 8th Nov., 1887
Improv
CHC Manufacture o
Пасо ани TIKU
аци
in the Means Employed in the Production of the same.
We WILLIAM BIRKS, Lace Manufacturer and JOHN CROPPER, Engineer both of
the Town and County of the Town of Nottingham do hereby declare the nature of
this invention to be as follows:-
:-
Our invention is chiefly applicable to that class of Twist Lace Machines known as
Curtain Machines or to any machines in which Jacks, Pickers or Selectors are
employed, and consists of a novel method of introducing coloured threads into the
pattern in such a manner as to show on the front or face of the fabric where and
when required by the design and to convey such coloured threads to the back of the
fabric when they are not required for the ornamentation of the design.
To carry our invention into effect we utilise the Jacks, Pickers or Selectors
(which we will hereafter call selectors) for two purposes (1) as selectors and (2) as
guides.
To adapt them for use as guides we pierce a hole in the nose or point of the selector
through which hole we pass a coloured thread or threads.
We employ other guides in the usual manner for the weaving of the ground-work
upon which the coloured threads are to be wrought.
We also employ a stump-bar or spacing-bar which is placed in front of the
guide-bars, to operate in conjunction with the selectors.
To this stump-bar we impart a lateral movement the same as to an ordinary guide-
bar and we place it in such a position that when the selectors (or such of them as are
left by the Jacquard free to operate) are brought forward the threads which they
carry are placed between certain spaces in the stump-bar, the nose of the selector
passing underneath the stump-bar. We now give to the stump-bar a lateral movement
to the left over as many gaits as may be necessary and the carriages are brought into
the front combs.
We then move the stump-bar the requisite number of gaits to the right, the threads
being still between the stumps, and the carriages return to the back combs, the

page_text: selectors simultaneously returning to their original position to await the next
selection. A repetition of these movements will produce the improved fabric
constituting the subject of our invention and it will readily be understood from
this description that those coloured threads which are not for the time being
required for the ornamentation of the face of the fabric remain at the back until
such time as they are required.
We weight the coloured threads with lingoes in the usual manner.
In carrying our invention into effect we do not confine ourselves to the use of
one selector to each carriage nor of one stump-bar.
מ.
WILLIAM BIRKS.
JOHN CROPPER.
By Harris & Mills,
3, Southampton Buildings,
Agents.

page_text: Improvements in the Manufacture of Lace and like Fabrics and
in the Means Employed in the Production of the same.
.
We, WILLIAM BIRKS Lace Manufacturer and JOHN CROPPER Engineer, both of
the Town and County of the Town of Nottingham, do hereby declare the nature
of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
Our invention is chiefly applicable to that class of twist lace machines known
as curtain machines, or to any machines in which jacks, pickers or selectors are
employed and consists of a novel method of introducing coloured threads into the
pattern in such a manner as to show on the front or face of the fabric where and
when required by the design and to convey such coloured threads to the back of
the fabric when they are not required for the ornamentation of the design.
To carry our invention into effect we utilize the jacks, pickers or selectors (which
we will hereafter call selectors) for two purposes (1) as selectors and (2) as guides
for the coloured threads. To adopt them for use as guides we pierce a hole a¹ in
the nose or point of the selector a through which hole we pass a coloured thread or
threads as shown in Figure 1. We employ other guides 6 in the usual manner for
the weaving of the ground work upon which the coloured threads are to be wrought. We
also employ a stump bar or spacing bar c see Figures 1 and 2 which is placed in front
of the guide bars 6 to operate in conjunction with the selectors. To this stump bar c
we impart a lateral movement the same as to an ordinary guide bar and we place it
in such a position that when the selectors a (or such of them as are left by the jacguard
free to operate) are brought forward, the threads which they carry are placed in spaces
between certain stumps in the stump bar c the nose of the selector a passing under-
neath the stumps c', as shown in Figure 1. We now give to the stump bar ca lateral
movement to the left over as many gaits as may be necessary and the carriages are
brought into the front combs. We then move the stump bar c the requisite number
of gaits to the right the threads being still between the stumps e¹ and the carriages
return to the back combs, the selectors a simultaneously returning to their original
position to await the next selection. A repetition of these movements will produce
the improved fabric constituting the subject of our invention and it will be readily
understood from this description 'that those coloured threads which are not for the
time being required for the ornamentation of the face of the fabric remain at the
back until such time as they are required.
We weight the coloured threads with lingoes in the usual manner as will be
readily understood.
In carrying our invention into effect we do not confine ourselves to the use of one
selector a to each carriage nor of one stump bar c.
We will now describe the manner of working with one selector to a carriage.
The accompanying cut of wheels, represented at Figures 3, 4, 5 and 6 respectively
actuate the back guide bar, the jack bar, the front guide bar and the stump bar and
in conjunction with the jacguard will produce three gait double-tie net, with a pattern
in various colours on the surface, the coloured threads twisting in with the fabric
when not in use for the pattern. The same cut of wheels may be used for producing
patterns on a solid ground fabric or on single tie two-gait work. The jacguard in
this case is preferably a double lift (but not necessarily so); that is one half of the

page_text: hooks are lifted by one grid and are used for producing the ground work, or net, and
the other half of the hooks are lifted by another grid and are used for producing the
patterns in colours as will be readily understood. There is one string to each hook,
and each selector is attached to two hooks, one from each grid, so that we can select
the colours or ground work at will.
'
The cylinder of the jacguard acts at every alternate motion of the carriages,
consequently there are two motions on a card. In some cases the cylinder acts at
every motion of the machine which method of working produces a better article.
There are two motions of the machine to one revolution of these wheels.
When working with two selectors a to a carriage as described above care must be
taken that the guide bars 61 stand in the same position when the selectors are taken
out of the threads as when they enter them or else the coloured threads will catch on
the guides.
We do not confine ourselves to the exact details herein described as it is obvious
that the system may be applied in another form, for instance, the coloured threads
can be threaded in extra guide bars placed at the back of the regular guide bars and
the noses of the selectors a instead of being perforated can be made like a fish tail a
as shown at Figures 7 and 8 so that when the selectors a are brought forward they
shall bring whatever threads are placed opposite to them into the stump bar c.to be
acted upon by the said stump bar in the same manner as before described.
The following is a description of the movements of the working parts of the
machine.
When the carriages are in the back combs the selectors a move one gait to the left
hand, at the same time the back guide bar b' moves one gait also to the left. The
front guide bar b moves one gait to the left hand, standing two gaits to the left,
having moved previously one gait for the purpose of reducing the angle on the
threads. The stump bar c also moves one gait to the left and the selectors are
brought forward placing the coloured threads & between the stumps c¹.
The stump
bar c now moves two more gaits to the left (or more if required).
During the above movements the carriages have been coming towards the front.
They now pass into the front combs, the selectors a then move one gait to the right
hand, the back guide bar moves one gait to the right the front guide bar b¹ moves
two gaits to the right and the stump bar c moves three gaits to the right. The
selectors a are now taken out, the front guide bar, 61 moves another gait to the
right and the carriages pass into the back combs to be ready for a repetition of
the above movements.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what we
claim as our improvements in the manufacture of lace and like fabrics and in the
means employed in the production of the same; is
The method of bringing the coloured threads to the front by means of the
selectors, which, in combination with the stump bar produce patterns in various
colours on the surface of the fabric whilst those coloured threads that are not
selected can either float at the back of the fabric or be twisted in with the bobbin
threads, substantially as herein described.
Dated this 13th day of September 1887.
WILLIAM BIKKS.
JOHN CROPPER.
By Harris & Mills,
23, Southampton Buildings,
Agents.