A NEW OR IMPROVED SEWING MACHINE, PART OR PARTS OF WHICH ARE APPLICABLE TO OTHER SEWING MACHINES
Year: 1880

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to George Browning and Spencer Mort, both of Glasgow,
in the County of Lanark, North Britain, Engineers, for the Invention of
"A NEW OR IMPROVED SEWING MACHINE, PART OR PARTS OF WHICH ARE
APPLICABLE TO OTHER SEWING MACHINES."
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said George Browning and
Spencer Mort at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 28th
October 1880.
•
GEORGE BROWNING and SPENCER MORT, both of Glasgow, in the County of
Lanark, North Britain, Engineers. "A NEW OR IMPROVED SEWING MACHINE,
PART OR PARTS OF WHICH ARE APPLICABLE TO OTHER SEWING MACHINES."
This Invention which consists of a new or improved sewing machine part or
parts of which are applicable to other sewing machines, relates to that class of
machines for producing what is known as zig-zag stitching, and one of the especial
objects achieved by the said improved machine is the production not only of
zig-zag stitches of variable length but also of zig-zag stitches in combination with
horizontal stitches between them.
These objects are effected by the employment of a grooved cam, driven as
hereinafter described, the groove in the said cam passing from side to side
alternately, and gearing with a roller carried on a pin at the upper end of a slotted
lever attached to the slide which imparts the backwards and forwards movement
to the needle. The length of this backwards and forwards movement of the needle
is adjustable by means of a pin passing through the slot of the lever hereinbefore
referred to, and also through a corresponding slot in a fixed vertical slide in front
of the head of the sewing machine. By elevating or depressing the position of the
pin in these slots so the length of the backwards and forwards throw of the needle
is adjusted, and by the variations in the angle of the groove in the driving cam
which actuates the slide, so the length of zig-zag stitches may be varied in any
order. When it is required to produce one or more horizontal or straight stitches
between the zig-zag stitches the groove in the cam corresponding to those parts

page_text: where such horizontal or straight stitches are to be produced is made straight, so
that the needle is not vibrated at such places.
In order to drive the cam which operates the zig-zag slide, its inner part, that is
to say, the part nearest towards the head of the sewing machine, is constructed
with ratchet teeth, and a driving pawl is provided which, at the proper times,
engages with one of these teeth in succession, and so rotates the cam in a step by
step fashion. This driving pawl is actuated from a slotted vibrating lever inside
the head of the sewing machine, and at the rear of the cam which drives the needle
bar, the roller or crank which passes into the slot of the needle bar cam also
passing into and simultaneously driving the pawl lever.
The machine is also provided with a retaining pawl for holding the cam during
the backward stroke of the driving pawl.
For the purpose of producing a regularly increasing and a correspondingly
regularly decreasing length of zig-zag stitching there is fixed to the top of the
needle bar a bracket which carries a ratchet wheel which at each stroke of the
needle bar is moved through a short distance by means of one of its teeth coming
into contact with a pawl fixed on the head of the machine. To a crank pin in
this ratchet wheel there is connected a link which carries a pin passing through
the slots in the slotted lever and fixed slide herein before described. When
therefore the machine is being driven the rotation of the ratchet wheel moves this
pin slowly upwards and downwards in the said slots, and thereby produces a
constant variation both increasing and decreasing of the zig zag stitching.
It is here explained that with the exception of the fixed pawl, herein before
referred to, the mechanism described is carried on and moved upwards and
downwards with the needle bar.
Another object achieved by the improved machine constituting this Invention is
the insuring of a firmer tightening of the shuttle and needle threads by effecting
the simultaneous termination of the movements at those threads at the closing of the
stitch. This object is effected by causing the driving crank of the machine to pass
through a vibrated slotted piece whose outer portion is so shaped as to be brought
under the check lever, and which imparts a positive upward movement inde-
pendently of the spring to the check lever at the time of and simultaneously with
the termination of the tightening stroke. This vibrating slotted piece is also
attached to the needle bar and moves upwards and downwards.
It is to be understood that this last mentioned part of the Invention may be used
in combination with the improved zig zag stitch machine hercinbefore described, or
in combination with other sewing machines.
Another part of this Invention has reference to the feed motion, which may be
applied to the machine hereinbefore described for producing zig-zag sewing or
stitching, or it may be applied to other sewing machines in which zig zag stitches
or other fancy or ornamental stitches are produced.
This improvement consists in rendering the feed of the machine variable, both in
the extent of its range of motion and in the direction of that motion, so that it
may if necessary make a greater or less extent of reversed stitching should the
pattern of the stitch to be produced require it. This result is effected by driving
either from the cam or an analogous cam which actuates the feed bar, or from the
rear end of the feed bar itself, a lever carried on a fulcrum in a bracket on the
under side of the foundation plate of the sewing machine. At the end opposite to
that from which it is driven this lever carries a pair of pawls, which engage on
opposite sides of a ratchet wheel attached to a variable cam. The driving edge or
face or groove of this cam actuates a roller or bowl on a bar pivotted to the bracket
herein before mentioned, which bar embraces and drives the adjacent end of the.
feed bar. The contour of the face or groove of this cam is such as to produce those
motions of the feed corresponding to the design of the zig-zag or other ornamental
stitching to be produced. By this arrangement a series of cams are provided
corresponding to any number of patterns of ornamental stitching.
For the purpose of producing the same pattern of stitching on different scales

page_text: An
the cam may give motion to a supplementary bar having a slot in it corresponding
to a slot in the bar herein before referred to as embracing the feed bar.
adjustable pivot is carried in these slots, and according to the position of that pivot
therein so the length or scale of the stitches is varied.
For the purpose of producing a stronger or more durable catch or clutch in those
sewing machines wherein the driving wheel is carried loosely upon the driving
shaft a circular pin passing into or through circular holes in the boss of the driving
wheel and in the carrier fixed into the end of the driving shaft is sometimes used.
Such circular driving pin is however not easy to fit with exactitude, and when not
fitted with exactitude the bearing or working surfaces of the pin in the holes not
closely fitting each other involves a shake, which is injurious to the smooth working
of the machine.
To obviate this defect one or more parallel slots are cut in the carrier and in the
boss of the driving wheel, and the catch piece is also fitted with one or more flat
sided pins, which fit into the slots in the boss of the wheel, and are slid thereinto
when it is desired to fix the wheel and shaft so as to rotate together.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed
by the said George Browning & Spencer Mort in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 27th April 1881.
GEORGE BROWNING and SPENCER MORT, both of Glasgow, in the County of
Lanark, North Britain, Engineers. "A NEW OR IMPROVED SEWING MACHINE,
PART OR PARTS OF WHICH ARE APPLICABLE TO OTHER SEWING MACHINES."
Our said Invention consists of a new or improved sewing machine for producing
what is known as zig-zig stitching of variable length, and also for producing the
said zig-zag stitching in combination with horizontal stitches between them.
These objects are effected by the employment of a grooved cam carried by the
needle bar, and driven, as hereinafter described, by the mechanism which drives
the needle bar, the groove in the said cam passing from side to side alternately,
and gearing with a roller carried on a pin at the upper end of a slotted lever
attached to the slide, which imparts the backwards and forward movements to the
needle. The length of this backwards and forward movements of the needle is
adjustable by means of a pin passing through the slot of the lever hereinbefore
referred to, and also through a corresponding slot in a fixed vertical slide in front
of the head of the sewing machine. By elevating or depressing the position of the
pin in these slots, so the length of the backwards and forwards throw of the needle
is adjusted, and by the variation in the angle of the groove in the driving cam
which actuates the slide, so the length of zig-zag stitches may be varied in any
order. When it is required to produce one or more horizontal stitches (that is to
say, stitches in the line of the work) between the zig-zag stitches the groove in the
cam corresponding to those parts where such horizontal or straight stitches are to
be produced is made straight, so that the needle is not vibrated at such places. In
order to drive the cam which operates the zig-zag slido, its inner part, that is to say,
the part nearest towards the head of the sewing machine, is constructed with
ratchet teeth, and a driving pawl is provided, which at the proper time engages
with one of these teeth in succession, and so rotates the cam step by step. This
driving pawl is actuated from a slotted vibrating lever inside the head of the
sewing machine, and at the rear of the cam which drives the needle bar, the roller
or crank, which passes into the slot of the needle bar can also passing into and
simultaneously driving the pawl lever. A retaining pawl is provided, which during
the backward stroke of the driving pawl holds the can in the position to which it
has been brought.
For the purpose of producing a regularly increasing and a correspondingly
regularly decreasing length of zig-zag stitching there is fixed to the top of the
needle bar a bracket which carries a ratchet wheel which, at each stroke of the
needle bar, is moved through a short distance by means of one of its teeth coming
into contact with a pawl fixed on the head of the machine. To a crank pin in this
ratchet wheel there is connected a bar or link which carries the pin, passing through
the slots in the slotted lever and fixed slide herein before described, the said pin
constituting the centre upon which the said lever turns. When, therefore the
machine is being driven the rotation of the ratchet wheel moves this pin slowly
step by step upwards, and then step by step downwards alternately in the said
slots, and thereby produces a constant variation, alternately increasing aud
decreasing of the zig-zag stitching.
With the exception of the fixed pawl hereinbefore referred to, the mechanisni
described is carried on and moved upwards and downwards with the needle bar.
Another object achieved by the improved machine constituting our Invention
is the ensuring of a firm tightening of the shuttle and needle threads by effecting

page_text: the simultaneous termination of the movements of those threads at the closing of
the stitch.
This object is effected by causing the crank pin which drives the needle bar to
pass through a vibrating slotted piece, whose outer portion is so shaped as to be
brought under the check lever which takes up the slack of the neeille thread, so as
to impart a positive upward movement to the said check lever at the time of and
simultaneously with the termination of the tightening stroke for both the upper
and under threads. This vibrating slotted piece is also attached by a pin to the
needle bar, and moves upwards and downwards with it.
This last mentioned part of our Invention may be used in combination with the
improved machine for zig-zag stitching, hereinbefore described or in combination
with other sewing machines.
Another part of our Invention has reference to mechanism for effecting the feed
motion, which mechanism may be readily applied to the machine hereinbefore
described for producing zig-zag sewing or stitching, or to other sewing machines
in which zig-zag stitches or other fancy or ornamental stitches are to be produced.
This mechanism is for rendering the feed of the machine variable both in the
extent of its range of motion and in the direction of that motion, so that it may if
necessary make a greater or less extent of reversed stitching should the kind of
stitch to be produced require it. This result is effected by driving either from the
cam which actuates the feed bar or from an analogous cam, or from the the rear end
of the feed bar itself, a lever carried on a fulcrum in a bracket on the under side of
the foundation plate of the sewing machine. At the end opposite to that from
which it is driven this lever carries a pair of pawls which engage on opposite sides
of a ratchet wheel attached to a variable cam. The driving edge, or face, or groove
of this cam actuates a roller or bowl on a bar pivotted to the bracket hereinbefore
mentioned, which bar gives motion to a supplementary bar having a slot in it
corresponding to a slot in the bar hereinbefore referred to. An adjustable pivot is
carried in these slots, and according to the position of that pivot therein so the
length or scale of the stitches is varied.
For the purpose of producing a strong or durable catch or clutch in those sewing
machines wherein the driving wheel is carried loosely upon the driving shaft, a
circular pin passing into or through circular holes in the boss of the driving wheel
and in the carrier fixed onto the end of the driving shaft is sometimes used. Such
circular driving pin is, however, not easy to fit with exactitude, and when not
fitted with exactitude the bearing or working surfaces of the pin in the holes not
closely fitting each other involves a shake which is injurious to the smooth working
of the machine. To obviate this defect we cut one or more parallel slots in the
carrier and in the boss of the driving wheel, and we provide the catch piece with
one or more flat sided pins which fit into the slots in the boss of the wheel, and
are slid thereinto when it is desired to fix the wheel and shaft so as to rotate
together.
And in order that our said Invention may be properly understood we now
proceed more particularly to set forth the system, mode, or manner in or under
which the same is or may be used or practically carried into effect, reference being
had to the accompanying Drawings, and to the letters and figures marked thereon,
in which said Drawings, for the sake of clearness, we have represented separately
the various improvements constituting our said Invention.
Figure 1 represents in front elevation and Figure 2 in longitudinal vertical
section the head of our improved sewing machine for producing zig-zag stitches in
combination or not with horizontal stitches. The parts of the machine not shewn
are or may be of the ordinary construction. The driving shaft of the machine is
marked a, the said shaft carrying the disc a³ and crank pin a³ which engages
in the cam groove in the cam piece b² fixed to the needle b, the said crank
pin a through the said cam groove driving the needle bar b up and down in the
ordinary manner. Upon a pin or axis c² passing through the needle bar b is fixed
the vibrating lever c, having therein a cam slot through which the crank pin a³

page_text: passes. This axis c² has also fixed upon it a pawl mounted loosely upon the
projecting end of the axis c², and secured thereupon by the screw d² is a cam d
having therein a groove in which engages a roller e² carried on a pin at the upper
end of the slotted lever e, the lower end of which lever is attached by the pin e³ to
the slide which carries the needle. This levere has its centre upon a pin e
carried in a fixed and slotted vertical slide or bracket piece g which is held in
position at its lower end by a pin g² engaging in a hole in the plate 6 fixed to the
lower end of the needle bar b, upon which plate b³ the needle carrying slide fis
moved from side to side, the said slide f being formed with side grooves or undercut
parts to run upon the said plate b³. The upper end of the bracket g has an eye
which passes onto the axis and is secured by the screw that secures the cam d
in position. The pin e' is adjustable in the slots in the lever e and bracket g to
give a greater or less throw to the needle. At the back of the cam d is formed or
fixed a ratchet wheel i (see Figure 2) with which the pawl engages. A retaining
pawl is fixed upon the bracket g to prevent backward movement of the ratchet
wheel i and cam d. The front plate of the head of the machine has a slot j in it
to allow of the passage of the axis c² as the needle bar b rises and falls. When the
machine is in operation the crank pin a³ engaging in the cam slot of the lever c
will cause the said lever c and its axis c³ to vibrate to the one side when the needle
bar b is in its lowest position, and to the other side when the needle bar is at or
near the highest point of its stroke, so that the said lever c and axis c' are at these
parts of the needle bar's stroke alternately vibrated to the one side and the other,
and consequently the pawl carried thereby at or about the termination of
each up stroke of the needle bar is moved forward into the position shewn in
dotted lines in Figure 5 to give by engaging with one of the teeth of the ratchet
wheel i a motion of partial rotation to the cam d, causing the cam groove therein,
if necessary, to act upon the lever e and cause it to act upon the plate fto slide
it upon the plate 63 and throw the needle to one side for the next penetration of
the needle at or about the termination of each down stroke of the needle bar; the
lever c and axis c² are moved by the action of the crank pin as upon the said lever c
in the opposite direction, and the pawl c³ is moved back into the position shewn in
full lines in Figure 5 ready to be again moved forward to act upon another tooth of
the ratchet wheel i, to again move the cam d through another portion of a rotation at
or about the termination of the next ascent of the needle bar. The said Figure 5
represents a portion of the head of the machine with the cam d and other parts
removed from the axis c². It will be understood that the groove in the cam d
and the number of teeth in the ratchet wheel i may be so relatively arranged as to
give a sideway throw or movement to the needle at each ascent of the needle bar,
or so as to give such throw only at every alternate movement of the needle bar, or
otherwise, as may be desired to produce zig-zag stitching or a combination of
zig-zag stitches with horizontal or straight forward stitches.
In order to produce a regularly alternating increase and decrease of the sideway
throw or movement of the needle to produce zig-zag stitches regularly increasing
and decreasing alternately in length, there is fixed to the top of the needle bar ba
bracket piece k, carrying a ratchet wheel k², one of the teeth of which at each
stroke of the needle bar comes into contact with a pawl or projection / fixed to the
head of the machine, so that a progressive intermittent motion is given to the said
ratchet wheel. To a crank pin upon the said wheel ² is connected one end of a
rod k*, to the other end of which is attached the pin which forms the centre
upon which the lever e turns. Thus as the ratchet wheel is rotated the said
pin e is alternately raised and lowered in the slots in the lever e and bracket g,
and a regularly alternating increasing and decreasing throw is given to the needle.
When the zig-zag stitches are to be of the same length this last mentioned
arrangement will of course be dispensed with, the position to which the pin e' is
set by hand in the slots of the lever and bracket defining the length of zig-zag
stitch made by the machine.
Figures 6 and 7 represent in front view and Figure 9 in longitudinal section the

page_text: head of a sewing machine with the front plate removed our improved arrangement
for acting upon the check catch or drawing up lever m for tightening the needle
thread, and Figure 8 represents the needle bar and the parts carried by it
separately. The crank pin a³ which drives the needle bar through the cam piece b*
passes through a cam slot in a vibrating picce or lever n. The outer portion of
the said piece n is shaped as shewn, and it attached to the needle bar b by a
pin n², which is the centre upon which the said piece n turns. The cam slot in
the said piece n is formed as shewn, so that the said piece n is brought down clear
of the check or slack thread lever m, as shewn in Figure 6 when the needle bar
is depressed, but so that the said piece is brought into the position shewn in
Figures 7, 8, and 9, when the needle bar is raised, the said piece n then having
coming into contact with the said lever m and moved it up to take up the slack at
the time that the under thread is being tightened up by the shuttle. The said
piece thereby by a positive movement causes the tightening up of the upper
threads simultaneously with the tightening up of the under thread by the
shuttle.
Figure 10 represents in longitudinal section the base plate of a sewing machine
turned upside down, to which is applied the mechanism adapted to the machine
according to our Invention for actuating the feed for zig-zag or other stitching
requiring the feed to have any particular or peculiar movement given to it. This
mechanism is also shewn in plan, as seen from beneath in Figure 11. It is
designed so that it may be readily fixed to any ordinary machine to which it is or
may be applicable. A. bracket 2) is attached to the underside of the base plate
of the machine by the set screw p³. Upon a pin q carried by this bracket turns
a lever q, one end of which has hinged to it a tail piece q³ formed to embrace the
end of the feed bar 7, the said tail piece being kept into contact with the said
end of the bar by the spring q' (omitted from Figure 10). The other end of this
lever q carries reverse acting pawls q engaging on opposite sides of a ratchet
wheels attached to the cam 8, shown separately at Figure 114, which has a groove in
it in which engages a roller on the pin t at one end of a bar t pivotted at to the
bracket p.
One end of the bar u is pivoted at u³ to the bracket 2, and its other
end 3 is bifurcated, and embraces the feed bar r. A pin is adjustable in slots in
the bars and u to regulate the distance through which the bar u is moved. If
this adjustment be not required there may be a simple lever actuated from the
cam s at one end and acting at the other end upon the bar 7. When the machine
to which this mechanism is applied is in operation, the movement of the feed bar "
derived from the cam actuated by the driving mechanism of the machine in the
ordinary way gives movement alternately in the one direction, and in the other to
the lever q, and the pawls q alternately give a motion of partial rotation to the
ratchet wheel & and cam disc 8, turning upon the pin 8, the groove in which acts
upon the barst and u and give the required sideways movement to the feed bar r.
It will be understood that the groove in the cam 8 may be of any form requisite to
give any desired movement to the needle bar, and that a number of cams with
different grooves for different stitches may be provided for use with this mechanism.
Figures 12 and 13 represent in vertical section and Figure 13 in end elevation a
portion of a sewing machine shewing our improvements in the clutch or catch
which engages the driving wheel with the carrier of the driving shaft. Parallel
slots wand are cut respectively in the carrier w fixed to the end of the driving
shaft a and in the driving wheel . The catch carrying piece y is provided with
a flat sided catch or projection y² of the same width as the slots w³ and x², so that
when the parts are in the position, Figure 12, the said projection y* engages in the
said slots w² and, and is held therein by the spring y³ and fixes the wheel w and
shaft a so that they revolve together. When the projection y is withdrawn from
the said slots w² and ³, as shewn in Figure 13, the wheel w will run free without
rotating the shaft a. There may be more than one flat sided projection y² and
corresponding engaging slots (w³, x²) if desired.
It is to be understood that the improvements hereinbefore described with

page_text: reference to Figures 6 to 14 of the accompanying Drawings may all or any of them
be combined with the zig-zag stitch producing machine described with reference to
Figures 1 to 5, or that the said improvements or any of them may be applied to
other machines to which they are or may be applicable.
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of our said
Invention, and the system, mode, or manner in or under which the same is or may
be used or practically carried into effect, we would observe in conclusion that we
wish it to be understood that we do not limit ourselves to the precise details herein
described and illustrated in the accompanying Drawings, as the same may be varied
without departing from the nature of our Invention, but what we consider to be
novel and original and therefore claim as the Invention secured to us by the herein
before in part recited Letters Patent is,―
First. The new or improved machine for producing zig-zag stitching in combi-
nation or not with horizontal or ordinary straight forward stitching, wherein the
mechanism which give the sideway throw or movement to the needle is carried by
the needle bar and actuated from the same mechanism which drives the needle bar,
essentially as hereinbefore described and illustrated in Figures 1 to 5 of the
accompanying Drawings.
Second. In sewing machines for producing zig-zag stitching, mounting the cam
from which the sideway throw or movement of the needle is obtained upon a
needle bar, and actuating the said cam from the crank pin which drives the needle
bar, essentially as hereinbefore described with reference to Figures 1 to 4 of the
accompanying Drawings.
Third. The combination with the mechanisin claimed in the preceding claiming
clauses of a ratchet wheel carried by the needle bar and connected with the said
mechanism, and so acted upon as to automatically give an alternately decreasing and
increasing throw or movement to the needle, essentially as and for the purpose herein-
before described with reference to Figures 1 and 2 of the accompanying Drawings.
Fourth. The combination with the needle bar of sewing machines of a cain piece
or lever n operating directly upon the check lever or levers for taking up the slack
of the needle thread, essentially as hereinbefore described and illustrated in
Figures 6 to 9 of the accompanying Drawings.
Fifth. The mechanism for giving movement to the feed bar. of sewing machines
for producing fancy stitches or stitches requiring special movement of the feed, the
said mechanism being constructed for ready attachment to or combination with
sewing machines to be acted upon thereby, essentially as herein before described
and illustrated in Figures 10 and 11 of the accompanying Drawings.
Sixth. The clutch or coupling illustrated in Figures 12 to 14 of the accompanying
Drawings for engaging the driving wheel with the driving shaft of sewing
machines, the novelty of the said clutch consisting of a flat sided projection or flat
sided projections (y²) engaging in corresponding flat slots (w³, x²) in the carrier of
the driving shaft and in the driving wheel.
In witness whereof, we, the said George Browning and Spencer Mort, have
hereunto set our hands and seals, this Twenty sixth day of April, in
the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and eighty one.