CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF STAYS, AND IN MACHINERY FOR MANUFACTURING STAYS, PARTS OF WHICH MACHINERY ARE APPLICABLE TO OTHER SPECIES OF WEAVING
Year: 1847

page_text: ALL
PRESENTS SHALI COME, I, WILLIAM
THOMAS, of Cheapside, in the City of London, Merchant, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Royal Letters Patent under the Great Seal of the United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland, bearing date at Westminster, the Twenty-sixth day of
October, One thousand eight hundred and forty-seven, in the eleventh year of
Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto
me, the said William Thomas, my exors, admors, and assigns, Her especial
licence, full power, sole privilege and authority, that I, the said William
Thomas, my exors, adññiors, and assigns, or such others as I, the said William
Thomas, my exors, adññiors, or assigns, should at any time agree with, and
no others, from time to time and at all times during the term of years
therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend,
within England, Wales, and the Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, the Invention
of "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF STAYS, AND IN MACHINERY
FOR MANUFACTURING STAYS, PARTS OF WHICH MACHINERY ARE APPLICABLE TO
OTHER SPECIES OF WEAVING," communicated to me by a certain Foreigner
residing abroad; in which said Letters Patent is contained a proviso that
I, the said William Thomas, shall cause a particular description of the
nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, by an instrument in writing under my hand and seal, to be inrolled.
in Her said Majesty's High Court of Chancery within six calendar months
next and immediately after the date of the said in part recited Letters

page_text: Patent, as in and by the same, reference being thereunto had, will more fully
and at large appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said
William Thomas, do hereby declare that the nature of the said Invention,
and the manner in which the same is to be performed, are fully described
and ascertained in and by the following statement thereof, reference being
had to the Drawings hereunto annexed, and to the figures and letters marked
thereon, that is to say:-
The Invention consists-
First, of improvements in weaving fabrics for the making of stays where
threads or strands of india rubber are introduced to give elasticity to the
fabrics. Heretofore, when weaving fabrics for stays where india rubber is
introduced to give elasticity, and wherein parts are made double to receive
whalebone, it has been usual to cause the strands of india rubber to be
introduced on both sides of the fabric, that is to say, in both fabrics which
constitute the double portions. Now, according to this the first part of the
Invention, I only introduce india rubber into one of the two fabrics consti-
tuting the double portions of the woven stay fabric
which the whalebones
will be more readily introduced than when there is india rubber on both
sides of the whalebone. If the india rubber is used in the warp, then in those
places where the fabric is to be double to receive the whalebone I arrange all
the india rubber, and work the same that when the double portions of the
fabric are being produced the whole of the india rubber is kept in one fabric,
whilst the other of the two fabrics, constituting the double portions of the stay
fabric, is to be made without india rubber. When the india rubber is used as
weft, then I cause it to be thrown in at those places where elasticity is
required each time in the same fabric, whilst the other of the two fabrics
constituting the double portions will be made with the non-elastic weft
only.
The second part of the Invention consists of a mode of weaving stay fabrics
where only one shuttle is employed for throwing in the weft, and in place of
making the double portions of the fabric where the whalebones are to be
introduced of the same quantity of warp as the single portions of fabric which
are between the double portions, I cause the warp to be encreased at those
places where the fabric is to be double, so that although the quantity of weft
in a given length of the separate parts of the double fabric will only be half
that which there is in the single fabric, still the encreased quantity of warp will
compensate for the absence of weft, and I prefer to double the warp in those
places where double fabrics are to be produced, so that in a given width of

page_text: each portion of the separate fabric of the double portions there will be as
many warp threads as in a like width of the single fabric which is between
the places where double fabrics are made. And the weaver in arranging his
warp will cause a shed to be opened in the single portions of the fabric each
time the shuttle is to pass through, and at the same time he will cause a shed
to be opened in the warp for one of the double portions of the double fabric,
and the two parts of the double fabric will be woven by the shuttle passing.
into sheds formed therein alternately, by which, as before stated, there will be
only half the quantity of weft in the separate portions of the double fabric to
what there is in the single portions of the stay fabric.
The third part of the Invention consists of a mode of applying elastic fabric
to parts of stay fabric after the same has been woven in the ordinary manner
without india rubber. According to this part of the Invention, I place across
the waist or 'other part of a stay an elastic fabric of such width and size as it
is intended should be elastic, and I cause the same to be sewed or stitched
thereto, and then I remove the ordinary staycloth by cutting between those
parts where the bones are introduced, and so as to leave only the india rubber
fabric; I then cause elasticity to be given to the india rubber fabric by
applying heat, as is well understood, by which means elasticity will be obtained
to such parts of stays as may be, desired.
The fourth part of the Invention consists of a mode of making elastic stays
by weaving single cloths or fabrics with india-rubber strands or threads either
in the warp or weft, the india rubber being introduced in such parts of each
fabric as are intended to be elastic, and then I cause such two fabrics to be
sewn or stitched together, leaving proper spaces for whalebone as heretofore
when sewing single unelastic fabrics for making stays.
The fifth part of the Invention consists of employing strands of whalebone
in the warp when weaving stay fabrics. The object of this part of the
Invention is to give stiffness or shape to parts of the stays, and yet an elasticity.
similar to what has been heretofore obtained in weaving parts of fabrics for
various purposes with hair. In those parts of stay fabric where I wish to
obtain stiffness yet elasticity I introduce strands of whalebone, which being
woven in as ordinary warp will in those parts give stiffness yet elasticity to
those parts of the stay fabric.
The sixth part of the Invention consists of a mode of producing elasticity to
those parts of stays where the parts thereof are laced or fastened together.
Supposing this part of the Invention is to be applied to the back of a pair of
stays, and that the same are fastened by lacing, I cause there to be applied a
narrow strip of india-rubber fabric between each of the rows of lace holes,

page_text: and each edge of the back parts of the stays, by which the narrow pieces of
fabric in which the lace holes are made will be attached to the narrow strip
of elastic fabric, and the other edges of the strips of the elastic fabrics will
be attached to the edge of the back parts of the stays; hence when the
stays are laced the edges may be drawn together, and thus still offer elasticity
to the back parts of such stays; and in this manner are strips of india
rubber to be introduced in other parts where such parts are to be drawn or
attached to each other by lacing or other nieans of fastening.
The seventh part of the Invention consists of applying india rubber strands
woven into the bottom and other parts of stays where it is thought desirable
to cause such parts to pucker or run up; and this part of the Invention is
performed by causing india-rubber strands to be thrown in parallel with the
double portions of the fabric to such extent as may be required, and when
elasticity is given thereto by heat the fabric where those strands are intro-
duced will run up and offer a fullness over the hips or other parts, as may be
desired.
:
The eighth part of the Invention consists of employing knit fabrics
in the construction of stays. For this purpose I prefer to use warp
fabrics; and the most simple manufacture of stays according to this part
of the Invention consists of employing a close texture of warp knit fabric
which I cut into the proper form, and I cause strips of woven fabric to be
sewn or stitched on those parts where whalebone is to be introduced, and
then manufacture the stays in other respects as if ordinary woven fabrics were
being used, and I introduce gores of such knit fabric at such parts as they
may be required. Or the cases or double portions for whalebones may be
produced in the act of making or knitting the fabric in a warp machine by
dividing the warp into two parts where such double fabrics are to be made,
and causing them alternately to be lapped on to the needles, and each part
to produce its fabric; and I prefer to use for such purposes warp machines
which are worked by Jacquard in place of lace wheels, and it is desirable to
employ independent pressers actuated by Jacquard or other pattern surface
as have heretofore been used, which offers means of readily making shaped
fabrics for stays in warp machines; and this is performed by causing those
parts where gores are to be produced to go on producing work, whilst the
other parts do not lap the threads on to the needles and do not produce fabric,
and for this purpose, as the threads will be used up unequally, they are to
be wound on to separate bobbins. In making stay fabrics in warp machines
india rubber may be introduced (as the same has heretofore been introduced,
and as is well understood) in such parts as may be desired to have elasticity

page_text: given thereto; and stiffness may be obtained to such fabrics by introducing
strands of spun yarn transversely of the fabric, as is well understood; and by
introducing thin strips of whalebone or hair into the fabric, in like manner to
what india rubber and other strands have heretofore been introduced into
warp fabrics, advantageous effects may be produced, and knit fabrics rendered
more suitable for making stays.
The ninth part of the Invention consists of an improvement in shuttles
and pickers for weaving stay and other fabrics, by which the wear of the
pickers is decreased. Figure I shows the plan of a shuttle, the shape of
which may be varied as heretofore, depending on the work to be performed;
and it will be seen that in place of the points being mounted or clothed with
metal for the pickers to come against, I cause there to be recesses formed at
the ends, as shown by a, a, and line the same with metal b, b, and in place
of having the ordinary pickers I use metal ones such as is shown at c, in plan
at Figure 1, d being the rod on which the metal picker slides. Figure 2
shows an end view of the shuttle.
e is
The tenth part of the Invention consists of improvements in the reeds used in
weaving stay and other fabrics, and the same is more particularly applicable
where india rubber or other warp is used which is liable to injury by the
friction of beating up by the ordinary reed. Figure 3 shows an end view, and
Figure 4 part of a plan of a reed constructed according to the Invention.
an axis which is mounted in sliding. bearings on either side of a loom, the
bearings being at all times pressed backwards by springs. On the axis are fixed
plates of the form shown at f; but I would remark, that although there are
three limbs shown, that number may be varied as long as they are made to
act in the manner herein described; the warp threads are passed between the
plates as shown, and the reed i is so formed as to have a rotatory motion
communicated to it from any suitable part of the loom in the following
manner:-At the end of the axis is a plate g, similar to that of a Jacquard
barrel, and the axis is to be caused to make one third of a revolution imme-
diately the weft has been thrown in, and then by means of the bar h (which
is to be mounted on swords or otherwise) the weft is to be beaten up by
the bar coming against the plates f, the bar being faced with leather as shown.
By this arrangement of reed there will be less liability of rubbing or friction
to the warp.
The eleventh part of the Invention consists of a mode of lacing and
fastening the shoulder straps of stays. Figure 5 shows one arrangement and
Figure 6 another arrangement according to this part of the Invention. In
Figure 5 there are two holes in the strap and two in the stay. In Figure 6

page_text: press on
there is only one hole in the stay, and the number of holes in the strap and
the stay may be varied. e is the lace in both cases, which is knotted at 1', 1',
and so that the ends of the lace having been passed through the holes in the
strap are conducted through the holes where the knots lie; and any strain
tending to separate the shoulder strap and the stay will be prevented having
that effect by the knots being drawn into the holes. The knots thus
the lace and prevent those parts of the lace moving back through the holes,
and yet the ends of the lace may be readily slided or drawn in the opposite
direction to lessen the distance of the end of the strap and the stay by pulling
the ends of the lace, by which the knots will be drawn back and allow of the
lace being tightened. The knots are protected on the inside by caps m,
whereby the friction on the lace when the two parts of the strap are distended
will be increased.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Thomas, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Twenty-sixth day of April, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and forty-eight.