Improvements in the Manufacture of Bordered Fabrics for Ladies' Skirts and similar Garments.
Year: 1890

page_text: Date of Application, 13th Feb., 1890-Accepted, 15th Mar., 1890
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION..
Improvements in the Manufacture of Bordered Fabrics for Ladies'
Skirts and similar Garments.
I, JOSEPH KOERFER of Rheydt in the German Empire Manufacturer, do hereby
declare the nature of this invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:
This Invention relates to the manufacture of printed or woven bordered fabrics for
ladies' skirts, petticoats, and similar garments which are to be ornamented at or near
their lower edges with a stripe, border or similar ornamental design and it has for its
object to enable a saving of about twenty per cent. of the material in making up
the skirt.
These Improvements consist in producing the stripe border or similar ornamental
design alternatively upon or near to opposite sides of the fabric in comparatively
short lengths so that lines must be drawn diagonally in alternate directions to
join the short lengths of pattern. When the fabric is cut along these lines the pattern
is on or near the longer selvedge of each section and when the several widths required
for the skirt are sewn together with or without further cutting, it will be found tha.
the garment has the required shape with the border pattern continuous round the
lower part, and without the waste of the fabric. Of course the various pieces cut out
of the fabric may be shaped or fashioned if desired but this will not involve either
further waste or economy of the material.
Up to the present time such skirts or garments have been usually made from fabrics
having the pattern produced continuously on or near one side only of the material
and it has been necessary therefore to cut the widths for the skirts in a rectangular
form and a length of the fabric a little longer than the length round the bottom of the
skirt was required for its manufacture. By these Improvements a skirt 2 metres
round the bottom may be made from 16 metres of fabric as hereinafter more fully
described and thus a great economy is effected.
In carrying out this Invention, when the pattern or design is to be printed, a
specially constructed roller or rollers is or are used, preferably of 80 cm. circumference,
upon which the pattern is engraved alternately on each side and not as usual entirely
on one side.
I will proceed to more particularly describe my Invention with reference to the
accompanying drawings in which Fig. 1 shows the surface of a printing roller con-
structed for the purposes of this Invention flattened out or unrolled so as to represent
the pattern printed by each revolution of the roller..
Fig. 2 represents a piece of the material printed in the usual manner for the
manufacture of bordered skirts. Fig. 3 shows a piece of material in which the
pattern or design has been produced according to these Improvements and the single
sections of which after having been reversed and sewn together in the proper manner
will form a skirt or petticoat with a continuous lower border.
The circumference of the roller may be of any convenient dimensions but
about 80 cm. (or thirty-one inches and a half) will generally be found suitable. On
the surface of the roller, as represented unrolled in Fig. 2 the central portion C has a
wedge like form and constitutes one section; the two outside portions are joined
together in printing the design so as to form another section and these two sections
are alternately repeated in printing the fabric as shewn in Fig. 3. With the circum-
ference of the roller herein before given, each of the sections will measure about 51 cm.
on the bordered edge and about 29 cm. on the plain edge.
The roller should be accurately engraved so as to ensure the two borders being at
the same distance from the edge of the fabric and that when the skirt is made up, the

page_text: 0
pattern shall appear to be continuous in the same manner as if it had been printed as
represented in Fig. 2.
In making up a skirt or petticoat of two metres round the bottom, four of the
sections C are required or so much of the fabric as is printed by two revolutions of
the roller, or twice 8 cm.; the sections (if required) are then gored or otherwise cut
or shaped and are sewn together in the ordinary manner, producing the continuous
border at the bottom of the skirt.
Instead of printing the border or design by means of rollers it may be printed by
means of blocks in the usual and well understood manner.
Any kind or variety of pattern may be produced according to these Improvements
and upon any material suitable for being made up into garments and a length of
material which would suffice for the manufacture of only 12 skirts by the ordinary
method will serve for the manufacture of 15 by the method herein before described.
It will be understood that if the horder or pattern is required at the upper part of
the skirt instead of the lower, it will be engraved on the narrow ends of the sections C
on the roller instead of on the broader ends.
If it be desired to have alternate patterns in the border at the lower edge of the
skirt this may be obtained by engraving one of the horders or patterns to the right
of the roller and the other to the left so that when the printed sections are cut and
reversed so as to bring the borders in line, the two designs will alternate. To produce
a similar result by the ordinary process two separate engraved rollers and two pieces
of material would be required.
:
The patterns or designs instead of being printed may be woven by a fancy loom or
by means of a jacquard apparatus in the ordinary manner it being necessary only to
stop the pattern on alternate sides as represented in Fig. 3.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said Inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is ;-
In the manufacture of bordered fabrics for ladies' skirts and similar garments,
producing the border alternately upon or near the opposite sides of the piece of
material, each length of border being longer than each intermediate blank space or
the reverse, substantially as and for the purpose hereinbefore described with reference
to the accompanying drawings.
Dated this 11th day of February A 1) 1890.
WILLIAM E. HEYS,
Agent for the Applicant.