Production of Cards and Pattern Surfaces therefor.
Year: 1886

page_text: Production of Cards and Pattern Surfaces therefor.
We ARTHUR GEORGE DAWSON of Pickford Street Works Macclesfield in the
County of Chester Manufacturer JAMES ADAMS of Cottage Lane off Buxton Road
Macclesfield aforesaid Silk Designer and FRANK EDWARD ADAMS of Cottage Lane
aforesaid Silk Designer do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as
follows:-
The object of this invention is to improve the processes of preparing patterns of
cutting them upon Jacquard pattern cards and of producing figured patterns in the
loom The present general method of preparing patterns is as follows:
The design is first drawn as it is to be produced in the fabric to proper scale
upon ordinary drawing paper.
The figure is then redrawn on a sheet of paper which is ruled in squares or
oblongs each square representing a crossing of the warp threads and the shute
threads in general the spaces between the lines from side to side representing the
shute and the spaces between the lines from top to bottom representing the warp.
Upon the proper number of these rulings a perfect plan or " draft" of the crossing
of the threads as they will be in the woven fabric is then produced by means of
paint or other distinguishing matter each dot or separate marking exactly indicating
whether at that point the shute passes over the warp or the warp over the shute
as the case may be.
This plan of the pattern is then placed before an operator who has command of
a machine known as a card cutting machine and who then proceeds to "read in "
the pattern on to the cards-This he accomplishes by cutting in the cards holes
corresponding in a proper manner with the paint marks upon his plau or draft.
These cards are then connected with one another and placed upon a Jacquard
weaving machine causing it to actuate the threads of the warp in the loom lifting
up some and leaving others thus allowing the shuttle carrying the shute to pass
over or under exactly in accordance with the original plan or draft thus producing
the pattern as desired.
The following is the process of drafting which we employ.
The draft or plan instead of being prepared upon a ruled sheet of paper is
worked upon an area of small holes each hole or perforation occupying a similar
office to each square on the draft paper that is to say each hole in the draft

page_text: represents a crossing of the threads in the fabric and the draft is worked by filling
up with suitable paint or body matter such of these holes as is necessary a hole
filled up being equivalent to a dot of paint upon the ordinary draft paper.
This introduces different methods both of working the draft and of cutting the
cards which may be described as follows:
Upon a frame of suitable size is stretched a sheet of material in which there are
rows of holes at regular distances and even placed those formed by the wires in
ordinary woven wire gauze being very suitable.
These holes are in lines exactly at right angles to one another and we may take
a row from side to side as representing a shute in the fabric and a row from top to
bottom as representing a warp thread in the fabric.
Upon this area of holes the draft or plan of the future fabric is to be prepared
by filling up certain of these holes and leaving others empty thus indicating the
difference in the crossing of the threads in the fabric.
This may be done by hand with assistance from the following methods.
The original design may be painted upon a copper plate in some non-electric
conducting substance such as wax.
Across this plate and in contact with it a fine metal point is made to travel
which is a conductor and which is connected with an electro magnet and a battery
by suitable wire the plate also being connected with the battery so that when the
point touches the clean copper plate the circuit is complete.
Attached to the electro magnet is an exhauster or a blower we will take the
exhauster.
The draft frame containing the area of draft holes is placed in a suitable position
and the holes all coated with a layer of liquid paint matter.
The exhauster with its magnet &c is then placed immediately over it and the
fine steel point is placed on the pattern of the copper plate.
The point and the exhauster are placed at the opposite ends of a pantograph so
arranged that the steel point reaches the end of its journey across the pattern on
the plate simultaneously with the exhauster across the requisite number of draft
holes.
They both then travel across the fine steel point when it passes over the pattern
painted in wax breaks the current and causes the magnet to open the exhauster
and suck the paint out of the holes it is passing over when the steel point comes in
contact with the clean plate the circuit is complete and the exhauster is closed
leaving the holes it is passing over filled with paint.
The exhauster is then moved to the next row of holes and the steel point further
along the plate so that they may commence a fresh journey.
A pattern is thus produced upon the draft holes which resembles the one upon
the plate, the original design.
Instead of the exhauster a blower may be used two or three of the pantographs
may be used working from top to bottom instead of from side to side or the action
reversed in many ways.
The additional finishing and adjustment of dots is then carried on by hand by
means of a blower, exhauster, or a fine point pressed into the holes, or a tube pen
or other convenient means.
In the draft to be produced repetitions will often occur; these are obtained by
copying.
The original draft is placed in proper position over a second frame which is
covered with paint and a blast of air brought upon it, which passing through
the holes of the figure blows out the paint of the holes immediately beneath and
produces a trauscript of the pattern.
The repeated part of the pattern can be copied as often as is required and any
twills, grounds, or other matter can be placed upon it in a similar manner; by
first preparing a draft and then placing it in proper position and blowing.
Instead of blowing exhausting might be used or solvents. The same result may
also be attained mechanically.

page_text: A number of needles or points are mounted on a frame each connected with a
spring or weight.
They are placed as close to one another as the holes in a row of draft holes.
The draft of a portion of a figure or of a ground or other working which is to be
copied is placed in front of another frame of draft holes which has been painted
over and the row of needles pressed into a row of the draft holes in the first draft
the needles will pass through any hole in the first draft that is unfilled by paint
and by suitable means is inade to pierce through the paint in the holes of the
second draft.
Where a hole in the first draft is filled with paint the needle will be thereby
prevented from passing through and the paint of the hole below will remain
intact.
The needles are moved from row to row and a perfect reproduction of the first
draft is thus obtained upon the second one.
Or instead of placing the frames one behind the other they can be placed in
other suitable position and the pattern transferred from one to the other by means
of similar needles. Any regularly repeating matter such as twills satins &c can
be produced by a series of points attached to a rigid foundation which can be
pressed into the holes in the manner required.
Several draft frames having worked upon them figures grounds and other
working can in the above described manner be used in the process of building up
the complete draft which can then be marked with suitable guiding lines and
passed on to the card cutter who will transfer on to the Jacquard cards the pattern
which he sees upon the draft in the ordinary way.
A permanent copy of the draft can then be obtained upon paper or other material
by the following method or otherwise
By placing the paper at the back of the draft holes and then pressing the row
of needles before described on to a row of holes in the draft.
The needles will be unable to pass through the filled holes but will pass through
the unfilled holes and pierce the paper which is behind.
The needles are then moved on to the next row of draft holes and the process
repeated until a complete copy in prickings is obtained of the unfilled holes of the
draft.
Immediately behind the paper may be placed an ink pad into which the needles
will pass after going through the paper and the needle ends becoming coated with
ink will leave a more distinct mark upon the paper than that obtained by a simple
pricking.
The paper copy of the draft may be given to the card cutter to cut the Jacquard
cards from instead of the rigid draft frame.
It will be seen that by means of frames of draft holes the pattern can be built
up on the sheet of paper.
A draft frame having worked upon it some portion of the figure which repeats
itself may be used to transfer that figure as often and in as many positions as
desired upon the paper.
Another having worked upon it twills grounds or other working may then be
used transferring the work which is on it, as many times, and in as many positions
as is required, and so on until the draft approaches completion.
Wherever there is anything that can be copied from one portion of the draft to
the other it is possible to do it by using one or more frames of draft holes.
The pattern or draft having been fully worked out on the wire gauze or like
surface can be applied in a machine for mechanically cutting Jacquard pattern
cards.
The draft having the pattern worked upon it is placed in a frame in order that
it may be suitably moved up and down.
The row of fine needles before described and which is connected with the cutting
machinery is then brought towards a row of draft holes where there is an empty

page_text: hole a needle will pass into it but where the hole is filled the needle is prevented
doing so.
When the needles are thus selected a flat edge or knife slips down securing them
and the whole row moves away from the draft.
The cutting machinery is controlled by connections with the fine needles, and
the card is cut in accordance with the selection of the needles.
By like means a draft may be produced from Jacquard cards.
By using two sets of needles with connections or needles with double points a
reversed copy may be obtained from a draft a perforation representing a filled hole
and vice versa.
In place of cutting Jacquard cards from the draft the draft itself may be
employed in weaving.
In order to accomplish this the draft and needles previously described along
with the connecting threads are coupled with a Jacquard machine or similar
apparatus so that the hooks will be acted upon in accordance with the draft
worked upon the draft holes.
Dated this 19th dow of W 1000
CARPMAEL & Co.,
Agents for the Applicants.

page_text: Improvements in Jacquard or Figure Weaving, and in the
Production of Cards and Pattern Surfaces therefor.
We, ARTHUR GEORGE DAWSON of Pickford Street Works Macclesfield in the
County of Chester Manufacturer, JAMES ADAMS of Cottage Lane off Ruxton Road
Macclesfield aforesaid Silk Designer and FRANK EDWARD ADAMS of Cottage Lane
aforesaid Silk Designer do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement:-
This Invention has for its object improvements in Jacquard figure weaving and
in the production of cards and pattern surfaces therefor.
The process and mechanism which we employ may be briefly described as
follows:-
The draft as far as the new portion of the design is concerned is worked with
hard wax, paint or like material on a woven wire web or other like perforated or
reticulate material.
This web is then placed in a framework so arranged that it may be set in any
position in relation to other mechanism.
Immediately before the framework is a row of needles placed as far apart as the
loles in the draft web.
The row of needles is carried by suitable supports and the needles are able to
move longitudinally.
Each needle has a lever running through its eye and projecting about inch.
Each needle has also a thread attached to it and passing to a spring box as in
what is known as a repeating machine. Other threals also are attached to the
needles as hereinafter described.
The whole surface of the web draft foundation is divided into spaces of suitable
size by special material woven into the web to facilitate counting.
For this purpose we insert at special distances a dividing wire distinguished
either by its color or size from the surrounding wires. Thus we may take a web
of tinned iron wire and at each 12th mesh insert a strand of copper or brass wire
at each 24th mesh a double wire or at such or similar distances we may insert a
wire of the same material but thicker than the rest of the material. By this means
guidance is afforded to the operator in the placing of the dots of paint upon the web.
The web is stretched accurately upon a frame.
When this draft web is brought up to the needles some of them pass through the
unfilled meshes whilst others are pushed back by coming against the paint or wax
with which the meshies are filled to delineate the pattern. In this way a selection
of the needles is made but this selection does not generally extend over the entire
area of the pattern but only embraces what is new for this alone is designed upon
the gauze.
A further selection of the needles is then made by the aid of Jacquard cards.
These supply the ground which may be twill or satin or any other and also any

page_text: old part of the pattern for which cards already exist. When the selection of the
needles is complete they are in turn employed to select punches and with these
punches the Jacquard cards for weaving the pattern are cut.
In order that our said invention may be fully understood and readily carried into
effect we will proceed to describe the drawings hereunto annexed.
old part of the pattern for which cards already exist. When the selection of the
needles is complete they are in turn employed to select punches and with these
punches the Jacquard cards for weaving the pattern are cut.
In order that our said invention may be fully understood and readily carried into
effect we will proceed to describe the drawings hereunto annexed.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.
Figure 1 is a front elevation of the apparatus which we employ.
Figure 2 shows an end elevation of a portion of the same.
Figures 3 and 4 are sectional elevatious showing some of the parts.
Figure 5 is a plan of the table or part on which the needles are mounted.
Figures 6 and 7 show the arrangement of the threads.
Figure 8 is a plan of the table with some parts removed.
Figure 9 shows the spring box.
Figure 10 shows another spring box used in weaving.
In Figure 1 A A are standards carrying a table in which a row of horizontal
needles each about four inches long is arranged in suitable guides all parallel the
one to the other. B is one of a pair of rods passing through the heads of these
standards and able to slide to and fro for a short distance; they receive motion
from a treddle and gear. The rods B carry the horizontal bar C and this bar in
turn supports a rod D. The upright E can be clamped in any convenient position
upon the rod D and also similarly to another rod F. The rod F is carried by the
bar G which is fixed to the standards A. A. Without unclamping the upright the
bars E and F can be moved longitudinally a short distance for the purposes of
adjustment. There is a slide upon the upright capable of being raised and lowered
and secured in any desired position. H is a frame which can be secured to this
slide. By the treddle gear the upright E and the frame H can be moved forward
to the points of the needles which overhang the edge of the table. Wire gauze is
mounted upon the frame and upon this gauze any pattern which it is desired to
weave is painted or filled in with wax or such like material.
When the frame H is moved forward, the points of the needles pass through one
row of holes in the gauze except when they are prevented from doing so by meeting
with the paint wax or material filling the holes.
The
The design as before stated is not to be completed on the wire gauze but only
certain areas are filled in containing such parts of the design as are novel.
ground work perhaps a satin or twill is produced from cards which have previously
been cut and these cards will serve for many different patterns. Or where an old
pattern of which cards are in existence requires to be altered, the altered areas only
will be depicted on the wire gauze, and all the rest of the design will be worked
from the old cards already produced.
K represents a spring box of ordinary construction in which are arranged as
many rods or pins as there are needles. Around each pin a spring is coiled which
abutting upon a shoulder on the pin presses it outwards or away from the needles.
Each needle is connected by a thread with the corresponding pin of the spring
box. At L is shown such a series of threads.
But as cards are sometimes cut with twelve holes in a row and sometimes with
eight holes, any needle may sometimes be required to operate with one or other of
two pins hence two threads pass from each needle to the spring box and are there
connected with two different pins. The second series of threads is marked M.
There may be a third series of threads if desired similarly arranged.
One series only of the threads L M is in use at any one time and this set is kept
tight between the needles and pins by being deflected from a direct course by
guides N N.
One series L is shown passing over the guides and it is this series which is in
use; the series of threads M is too slack to produce any effect in the working of
the mechanism. Another series of threads O one for each needle is also shown,

page_text: these threads pass to a trial loom on which each shedding of the threads can if
desired be experimentally tried and errors so discovered can then at once be
corrected; this however is an adjunct and not an essential feature in the
arrangement.
The method of working may now be described in general terms as follows;-The
wire gauze pattern on the frame H is advanced to the needle points and it pushes
back some of thein corresponding to the small novel part of the pattern. Theu a
pattern card of the series which is to supply the ground and it may be also old
features in the pattern is placed between the spring box K and a perforated board
or support at P and the spring box K is moved up to the card and by the aid of
guides accurately presented to it.
Some of the pins will pass through corresponding holes in the card and thereby
the threads attached to them will draw back the corresponding needles of the
row I I. Other of the pins will be stopped-because the card is not perforated
opposite to their extremities and they come to rest against the card the coiled
springs yielding; and again other of the pins that is to say all corresponding to
the new part of the pattern worked on the gauze will be stopped (whether the card
does or does not present holes opposite to them) because they are tied back by
threads which however are not seen in this figure.
When the desired arrangement of the needles has in this way been secured the
needles which have not been drawn back are held fast and secured so that they
cannot move during the subsequent operations connected with the card cutting
or the trail weaving. Behind the perforated block P is a similarly perforated
plate Q having in each of its perforations a steel punch. Such an arrangement
including the spring box and perforated plate serving as a holder for punches is
now commonly used in card cutting but in a different manner.
Another perforated plate R is now placed in position behind that in which the
punches are contained, and the operator draws forward the spring box so that the
pins projecting from it may displace the corresponding punches from the first plate
and convey them into corresponding perforations in the second plate. It will then
be seen that the second plate receives the punches which correspond to the needles
which have been pushed back by the gauze pattern or pulled back in the manner
described when the spring box is used in connection with the pattern card. The
plate with these punches and no others is then removed and taken to the card
cutting cutting press which is of the ordinary description and the required pattern
card is cut. After treating one line of the pattern in this manner the next line is
similarly operated upon and another card is punched and so on until all the cards
for the pattern are punched. Gear is provided on the upright by which the
frame H is progressively raised or lowered. The frame H may be of the full
width of the row of needles or narrower as the case may require. S is the treddle
which when depressed advances the draft frame to the needles. T and U are
treddles which when pressed down draw the spring box K forward. In connection
with the trial loom we provide another spring box like K and shown by
Figure 10. When the needles are selected and ready for the card cutting this
spring box is moved forward and as happens with the spring box K some of the
pins of the spring box are held back by the pins whilst others corresponding with
the selected needles advance; and these selected pins are arranged to act upon and
move the needles of the Jacquard belonging to the looni. The pins have enlarged
heads which when advanced close corresponding holes in the front of the spring
box and when drawn back leave these holes vacant. Thus when the spring box is
advanced the Jacquard needles are arranged in the same way as they would be
arranged by the application of a Jacquard card so that concurrently with or
previous to the card cutting a piece may be woven; and this will greatly facilitate
the detection and rectification of errors in the cards or draft.
In Figure 2 8 is a rod passing up from an arm on the axis of the treadle S and
jointed to a link &2 which has its fulcrum upon the frame at 8. s is another link

page_text: passing from the connecting rod s¹ to the bar C which the rod B supports. Hence
it will be seen that when the treadle is depressed the bar C will be drawn towards
the right and this bar as already explained carries with it the frame in which the
wire gauze pattern is mounted. I shows one of the needles in the horizontal row.
These needles, which are sufficient in number for the entire pattern slide in two
perforated plates 1 and 22. The hinder plate is fixed to the table but the front
plate is carried by a slide ³ and can be moved forwards towards the points of
the needles to the position in which it is represented in the figure. The object of
bringing this plate 2 forward is to enable it more effectually to control the needle
points at the time when the pattern is presented to them and afterwards it is
moved back in order that the needles may have the full length of stroke required
when selecting the card cutting punches without escaping from the plate. Each
needle has a wire or lever i passed through its eye.
In Figure 2 the upper ends of two levers are seen one belonging to a needle
in the forward position and which has passed through a hole in the gauze pattern
and the other to a needle which has been pushed back and selected by the gauze
pattern.
25 is a blade carried by hinged arms; it can be put down when desired to lock.
the unselected needles and prevent them from afterwards being drawn back.
C¹ is a slider on the back of the bar C, it carries at its end a clip C² seen in
Figure 1 to aid in holding the frame H.
In Figure 3 the levers of the needles are shown one in the forward position,
in which it remains when the point of the needle passes through an aperture in the
wire gauze and the other in the position which it assumes when the needle has
been driven back, the hole through which it would have passed having been
filled in.
V is a bar or plate which lies on the top of the table and is moved by the hand
of the operator.
When the bar or plate is moved towards the needles it carries
forwards with it such of the needles as may have previously been drawn back
and it causes their points to range; it also by coming against the studs 2³×
pushes forward the slide i3 and so advances the guide plate 2 towards the points
of the needles, making all ready for the selection to be made by means of the
gauze web,
Figure 4 again shows needles with their levers and guide plates.
In Figure 5 the bar V is seen in place so also the slide 3 and the bars carrying
the guide plates and 2. The space I is that occupied by the needles. V₁ vi are
fixed studs to which the bar or plate V is drawn back to leave room for the
selection and no more. 22 are buttons on the bar or plate V. To the bar or
plate V threads W are attached; they pass through perforated guide boards and
then are knotted into the threads leading from the needles to the pins of the spring
box. One thread W is attached say to twelve other threads belonging to twelve
adjacent needles. When a thread W is caught around its button v² the corre-
sponding needle threads are held back so that when the spring box K is advanced
to the pattern card for the purpose of selecting the needles for the ground or old
part of the pattern none of the rods of the spring box attached to the thread W
which is caught up can advance into the holes of the pattern card and this part of
the card, is then out of use, the required selection as far as the needles connected
with these threads are concerned being made by the gauze web. and are
notches in the bar or plate V which admit of the bar or plate being drawn further
back then the position in which it is shown in Figure 5. The bar is moved so as
to bring the studs V1 V¹ into the notches 3 to slacken the threads to allow of the
selection of the punches to be made as already explained.
This movement of the plate or bar also brings back the slide 3 the edge of the
plate or bar pressing against the studs i*.
By bringing the studs V₁ into the notches the threads may be slackened
without drawing back the slide 2³.

page_text: In Figures 6 and 7 the series of threads are shown lettered in accordance with
the preceding description. The parts seen in Figure 8 also have already been fully
described.
Figure 9 shows the spring box K with the card and card cutting arrangements.
To select the needles by the card, the card is placed between the springs (one
at each end) and the fixed plate which is bored with similar holes to the card.
The spring box is pulled towards k' and the pins enter wherever there is a hole in
the card and thereby pull back the corresponding needles I.
The spring box slides along the rod 3 secured to the table. is another board
which slides along the rod ³, there are slots in it to allow the arms supporting the
spring box to pass down.
To this board a plate k³ is fixed.
To cut cards the operator removes the card from between k¹ and 2 and he then
presses down the treadle U thus bringing the spring box towards him and then all
the pins allowed by needles I to do so will pass through block k. He then pushes
the plates against the pins that have come through which results in certain of the
punches being pressed from the recesses in the plate into corresponding recesses
in the plate . is then carried away to the press and the card cut. Previous
to doing so be inserts another card between the spring and the plate ¹¹.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what
we claim is:-
1. The production of Jacquard cards by means of a pattern or wire gauze or like
reticulate material, such pattern being employed to select needles and the needles
afterwards serving to select and arrange the punches which punch the Jacquard
cards.
2. Apparatus substantially as herein described for use in connection with
Jacquard or figure weaving and in the production of cards and pattern surfaces
therefor.
1
1
1000