IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES
Year: 1885

page_text: I OWEN ROBINSON' of the Champion Sewing Machine Works, Kettering in the
County of Northampton, Manufacturer do hereby declare the nature of my inven-
tion for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES," to be as follows:-
The chief object of this invention is to produce a machine suitable for sewing
the golosh and vamps or fronts of boot and shoe uppers.-It is also proposed, by
a slight modification, to sew the uppers themselves, which, as is well known, are
prepared in the flat.-The closed upper requires, in the machine, an arm or
cylindrical sleeve for supporting the work, but for sewing uppers, a platform is
required to support the work.
According to my invention, I use a peculiar construction of rotary shuttle and
driver, also novel arrangements of mechanism for transmitting motion to the
shuttle and to the feed wheel.-The other parts of the machine, viz:-the recip-
rocating needle, the mechanism for driving it, and the presser foot, will not differ
in principle from the like parts in the ordinary sewing machine. The main
framing carries, at top, a horizontal shaft, from which motion is derived for the
various working parts of the machine.-Keyed to this shaft is an excentric, to
which is fitted a strap, carrying a pendant rod, to the lower end of which is fitted
a friction bowl. This bowl works in a slot cut transversely across the face of a disc,
keyed to a horizontal shaft lying immediately below and parallel with the driving
shaft, and it is intended to give a variable rotary motion thereto.-The excentric
strap rod is pivotted, at about the middle of its length, to a radius arin, which serves
to control the rocking motion of the rod. The shaft carrying the grooved disc is
mounted in, and passes through, a cylindrical arm socketted into, and made fast
to the framing. At its free end, this arm is fitted with a circular shuttle race for
the reception of a circular shuttle, which rotates in a vertical plane. Fitting upon
this cylindrical arm, and free to rotate thereon, is a sleeve which carries at its
outer end a feed wheel for traversing the work under the reciprocating eye-pointed
needle. This sleeve, at its inner end, carries a flange which is embraced by a pair
of gripper levers, after the manner of the ordinary feed wheel arrangement. The
inner end of the cylindrical arm, which is secured by bolts to the main framing,
as a concentric annular recess formed in it to receive a tubular socket piece on
which are loosely fitted the gripper arms. This socket piece is formed with two

page_text: lugs, one of which is intended to strike against an adjustable stop, and the other
to receive the downward pressure of a rod pendent from a strap on a second
excentric of the driving shaft. This rod is controlled, at its extremity, by a radius
arm, and a spring, bearing on the underside of the lug, holds that lug in contact
with the bowl of the excentric strap rod.-As, therefore, the driving shaft is
rotated, a reciprocating axial motion will be imparted to the tubular socket, and
the gripper levers being thereby actuated, they will be caused to impart, at every
rotation of the driving shaft, a slight axial motion to the sleeve, and consequently
to the feed wheel.
I have said that the shuttle, which is circular, is mounted in a circular race.—
In the periphery of this shuttle, a segment shaped recess is formed to receive a
driver, which is carried by the shaft which projects through the fixed cylindrical
arm. One end of this recess is rounded off to form the heel of the shuttle, and
the other end is so shaped as to form the nose of the shuttle. The driver is free to
play in this recess sufficiently to allow of the nose of the shuttle entering the loop
of the needle thread, and of the loop sliding off the heel of the shuttle.-The
shuttle is pierced excentrically to receive a thread case for the shuttle thread,
which case has friction put upon it by intermittent pressure, to secure the requisite
tension to the thread. By imparting rotary motion to the shuttle through the
driver by the means above described, a comparatively slow motion is given to
the shuttle while taking the loop; the speed is then increased until the shuttle
has passed through the loop;-it will then slow down for a quarter of a turn of
the main shaft, and quicken up to complete the rotation. This mode of timing the
action of the shuttle ensures an important advantage in respect of speed of working,
as it provides ample time for the tightening up of the stitch, and therefore permits
of the machine being driven at a high velocity. The requisite tension on the
needle thread it is proposed to obtain by an intermittent pressure like that
employed with respect to the shuttle thread.
In Sewing Machines used by the Boot Trade, it is usual to place the feed wheel
at the left hand side of the attendant, as this gives great facility for shifting the
work under the needle. To provide for this, when adapting my improvements to
'a platforın machine, I propose to mount the feed wheel in a bracket hinged to the
underside of the table, and situate in front of the shuttle race.-This will allow
of the feed wheel being tipped to give access to the shuttle.--To provide for the
driving of this wheel, the tubular socket before mentioned is fitted to the hub
of the feed wheel, and the feed wheel is flanged to receive the grippers of the
tubular socket. A reciprocating axial motion imparted to this socket in the
'manner above described, will cause the grippers to turn the wheel intermittently,―
the distance of each movement being regulated by an adjustable stop.
Dated thie 22nd day of August. 1885

page_text: Improvements in SOWING .
OWEN ROBINSON of the Champion Sewing Machine Works, Kettering in the
County of Northampton, Manufacturer do hereby declare the nature of this
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
The chief object of this invention is to produce a machine suitable for sewing
the Golosh and Vamp, or front, of boots and shoes on to their uppers. It is also
proposed, by a slight modification, to sew the uppers themselves, which, as is well
known, are prepared in the flat.
In the machine used for attaching the golosh and vamp to the upper, an arm or
cylindrical sleeve, for supporting the work is employed, but for sewing uppers, a
platform is required to support the work.
In the accompanying, drawings, I have shewn my invention as adapted to both
kinds of machines, but I will first describe the arm machine which is employed in
connection with closed, and tubular work. In this machine it will be seen that
I use a rotary shuttle working in a vertical plane, driven by a novel arrangement
of mechanism, the object being to time the continuous rotation of the shuttle in
such a way as to reduce its speed while entering the loop of needle thread, and
quicken its speed while. passing through the loop.
Fig. 1 is a front elevation, partly in section, of the arm machine.
Fig. 2 shews the front end of the machine.
Figures 3 and 3ª are partial views of the back end of the machine, shewing in
two positions the mechanism for communicating motion to the shuttle driver shaft
and the feed wheel.
The reciprocating needle, the mechanism for driving it, the presser foot, and the
feed mechanism, do not differ in principle from the like parts in the ordinary
sewing machine.
A A is the standard of the machine, carrying hollow bracket arms A! A for the
reception, the one of the cam shaft B, and the other of a shaft C, which carries the
shuttle driver. The arin A is fitted with guides to receive the needle bar and
the presser foot bar, and a front plate on which the take-up apparatus is mounted ;
it also carries, as usual, the tension apparatus for the needle thread. The cam
shaft B has keyed to it, a band pulley B₁ for imparting motion thereto, and on its
front end is keyed a disc B?, in which is formed a cam groove for working the
take-up apparatus. This disc is fitted with a crank pin for giving motion, through
a link, to the sliding bar D, carrying the needle d. Near the back end of the cam
shaft B is an excentric B³, which serves to actuate the shuttle driver shaft, and
give motion to the feed mechanism.-Surrounding this excentric is a strap
carrying a pendent rod E, to the lower end of which is fitted a friction bowl e.--
This bowl works in a slot cut transversely across the face of a disc C! keyed-to the
shaft C. The excentric strap rod E is jointed at about the middle of its length to
a. radius arm E¹, which is pivotted to the standard. A.-This radius arm serves to
support the rod E and control its rocking motion. The hollow arm, A2, in which
the shaft C is mounted, is socketted into, and made fast to the standard A. Fitted
to the extremity of this arm A is a circular shuttle race F, for. the reception of
a rotary shuttle f, which rotates in a plane parallel to that in which the needle d.
moves. This shuttle race is secured to, the arm by means of screws; see fig. 2.-
Fitting upon, this hollow arm, and free to, rotate thereon, is a sleeve G, which
carries at its outer end a feed wheel g. for traversing the work under the

page_text: reciprocating eye-pointed needle d. This sleeve, at its inner end, carries a
flange G, which is embraced by a pair of gripper arms gl, after the manner of the
ordinary feed-wheel arrangement. The inner end of the hollow arm A, which is
secured by bolts to the standard A, has a concentric annular recess (see fig. 1)
formed in it to receive a tubular socket piece g³, into which are notched the
gripper arms g¹.
It is by the reciprocation of this socket piece that the gripping arms are
actuated for working the feed. Projecting from the socket piece g³ is an arm g³,
which underlies a rod g' pendent from a pivot pin carried by the rod E. To
prevent the swaying of this rod, it is connected to a radius arm g pivotted to the
arm g, or it may be to a fixed point. As, therefore, the rod E rises and falls, the
rod will be caused to strike upon and recede from the arm g³, and thereby
cause the gripping arms to impart an intermittent axial motion to the sleeve G,
and consequently to the feed wheel which it carries.-The recoil action of the
gripper springs will return the arm g³ to its raised or normal position.
Figures 4 and 5 shew the shuttle f. detached in front and sectional elevation.
In the periphery of this shuttle, a segment-shaped recess is formed to receive
a driver f, Figures 1 and 2, carried by a disc or the end of the shaft C. One end
of this recess is rounded off to form the heel of the shuttle, and the other end is so
shaped as to form the nose of the shuttle. The driver is free to play in this
recess sufficiently to allow of the nose of the shuttle entering the loop of the
needle thread, and of the loop sliding off the heel of the shuttle. The shuttle is
recessed at its centre to receive a thread case f2 for the shuttle thread.
Projecting from the centre of this recess (see the enlarged view. Fig. 6) is a
tube f³, open at opposite ends to receive a tube projecting from the centre of the
thread case f-A snap spring f* is fitted to the central tube of the thread case,
and an annular rebate is formed in the tube f³ for the head of the spring to snap
into.
Standing out radially from the thread case is an arm ƒ6, which is indented
longitudinally to form a recess for a pressure spring f'.-The thread drawn out
from the case is led into a nick in the radial arm ƒ6, and then laid under the
pressure spring f', which, being made fast to the thread case, will put the required
friction onto the shuttle thread.--When the thread bobbin is inserted in the case,
and the end of the thread is passed through an opening in the case and under the
tension spring, the case is ready for insertion into the shuttle. On pressing it
into place, the snap spring will take a hold of the central tube of the recess, and
hold the case securely in place.
To prevent the shuttle, while passing through the loop, from affecting the last
formed stitch as the loop is expanded by the shuttle, I provide a gripper h (see
Figures 1 and 2), which, when brought into action, will hold the shuttle thread
firmly, as well as that side of the loop which is connected with the work, and thus
prevent the strain put upon the thread reaching the stitch last formed.-The
gripper consists of a bent finger recessed into, and secured by a pivot pin to the
end of the arm A².-The free end of the finger is bent at right angles, and brought
into the vertical slot made in the arm for the reception of the descending needle.
Overlying this opening, and surrounding the end of the arm and the circular
shuttle race, is a ring a, which performs the part of the throat plate in the ordinary
sewing machine.-This ring is pierced with a hole which coincides with the vertical
slot in the arın A' to receive the needle.-Up this slot passes the loop of needle
thread; and also the interlocking shuttle thread, and it is against one side of the
slot; when the nose of the shuttle has fairly entered the loop and the needle.has
risen clear of the work, that the gripping finger h is brought into action, gripping
firmly the shuttle thread and that side of the loop which connects with the last
formed stitch. The finger is pressed forward by a spring h¹, which lies at the
back of the finger in its recess, and it is pressed back out of action by means of a
cam H on the shuttle driver shaft. C.-This retaining action of the gripper is
maintained until the shuttle ceases to put a strain upon the needle thread, which

page_text: will be when it has completed about half a revolution. The take-up apparatus
now coming into action, pulls up the loop, and tightens the stitch in the work.→
This apparatus consists of a rocking arm I keyed to the journal which has its
bearing in a plate. I made fast to the end of the bracket arm A'.
5 To the inner end of this journal is keyed an arm I, which carries a bowle i.—
This bowle works in a cam groove ¹ cut in the disc B; the rotation, therefore, of
the cam shaft B, on which this disc is keyed, will impart the requisite take-up
motion to the arm I of the take-up apparatus.
This apparatus, besides drawing the stitches to tension, supplies the requisite
amount of thread to the needle for ordinary work, and allows, under exceptional
circumstances, of a larger supply of thread being taken up. The thread, leaving
the bobbin (not shewn in the drawing), passes between a pair of friction discs K
mounted loosely on a pin k, which is inserted in a rebated socket in the arm A¹-
The inner end of this pin is formed with. a head, and strung upon it, in front of
the head, is a coiled spring kl.-The outer end of the pin is threaded to receive.a
nut, the turning, of which will put an adjustable pressure on the discs.--Behind
the head of the pin k is a lever K' pivotted to the standard, and serving, by means
of a cam K on the cam shaft B, to press forward the pink at the required moment,
and release the thread lying between the discs K from pressure. The thread, on
leaving the, discs, passes through a staple is ou the plate I, and thence to the hook
on the end of the arm I; then again through the staple to a nick in the needle
bar D, and thence to the eye of the needle d. It is when the arm I has descended
to the position of Fig. 2, that the thread is released from the pressure of the
friction discs, to provide for an extra supply of thread in case of an exigency, due,
for example, to an increased thickness of material.
In order to explain the action of the machine, I have appended to the Drawings
three Diagrams which will serve to illustrate the formation of the stitch.
Diagram Fig. 7 shews the needle in its lowest position (before rising to throw
out a loop), the shuttle nose being near the needle, and ready to enter the loop
when formed. At this part of its rotation, the shuttle is moving comparatively
slowly, the largest radius of the excentric being in the position indicated at Fig. 3
by line 1.-When the nose of the shuttle has completely entered the loop of the
needle thread (see the dotted position of Diagram Fig. 7, the largest radius of the
excentric will be in the line 2.of. fig. 3, the radius arm E will have decended to
the second position marked 2, and the disc C¹ will have travelled from the radius
line 1. to the radius line 2.-When the parts have reached the second position
(marked 2), the increased speed of the shuttle commences.
tained until the position of the parts, indicated by the line 3 of Fig. 3, is reached,―
This speed is main-
the radius arm being then at its lowest position. As soon as the point of the
needle has risen above the work, and the shuttle nose has entered the loop of
needle thread, the gripper h, which has been held out of action during the descent
of the needle by the cam H, is allowed to close upon the shuttle thread and one
half of the needle loop (that leading from the last formed stitch to the needle eye),
and hold them fast while the needle rises to its highest position, as shown at
Diagram Fig. 8. The needle loop having now been extended to its utmost by the
passage of the shuttle into it; is ready to escape from the shuttle.
he tension discs have the full force of the spring upon them, and the arm I,
At this time
which is at its lowest position, commences to rise and draw up the slack thread to
ighten the stitch. At the same moment, the cam' H releases the loop from the
ction of the gripper h.
Diagram Fig. 9 represents the position to which the shuttle has moved when
he rocking arm I has risen to its highest point and tightened the stitch.-The
xcentric B³, radius arm E¹, and disc C, have now, at this time, reached the position
ndicated by the lines 4 of Fig. 3. The feed motion follows immediately this action
f the take-up apparatus.--The slower motion of the shuttle now commences, and
maintained until its nose has entered the new loop, or taken the dotted position
f Fig. 7, the excentric radial arm and disc moving from line 4 to 2 of Fig. 3.

page_text: At Figures 10 and 11 I have shewn the above described improvements adapted
to, a table machine, but in order to place the feed wheel on the left hand slide of
the shuttle, looking towards the front of the machine, a position which is deemed
essential by operators, I have shewn a novel mode of mounting the feed wheel.
Fig. 10 is a front side elevation, and Fig. 11 a front end view of the table
machine; and
31
'
Figures 12 and 12 shew in front and side elevation the mode of mounting the
feed wheel, the same being thrown out of its working position.
A's the parts of the Invention already described bear, on these Figures, the same
letters as those applied to the first machine, it will be unnecessary to repeat the
description of those parts.
In placing the feed wheel to the left hand of the operator, the shuttle would be
rendered inaccessible. To avoid this, I provide for the throwing down of the feed
wheel into the position shewn at Fig. 12°, whereby the shuttle is exposed to view,
and the shuttle case is consequently made accessible to the operator for refilling.
The feed wheel G is mounted loosely on a stud pin L, which is carried by a
bracket hinged to the front. of the shuttle race.-The feed wheel is actuated by the
ordinary gripping mechanism, and the lever g³, which imparts the motion to the
grippers f¹, is struck by a tappet on the shaft L', having its bearings in lugs cast
on the underside of the table. An arm of this tappet shaft embraces a cam L³ on
the shuttle driver shaft C, and as that shaft rotates, a reciprocating axial motion is
imparted to the tappet shaft.-As the lever g³ is mounted upon the stud pin L, it
will come away with the wheel when the latter is thrown down into the position
of Fig. 12. When, however, the feed wheel is restored to its working position,
the lever g³ will regain its proper position for being acted upon by the tappet
shaft. The feed apparatus is closed in by a cap piece M, and to this cap piece is
fitted an excentric stop m, the adjustment of which in its bearing, by a pointer
made fast to the stop, will determine the amount of rocking motion to be imparted
to the lever g³, and consequently the length of feed desired. The shorter end of
the lever g³ is held in contact with the excentric stud by the tension of a spring g³.-
As, therefore, the radius of the excentric stop brought into use is increased, so will
the action of the lever be limited.
1 may remark that the improvements above described are applicable not only
to machines constructed for sewing leather, but also to family machines.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said
Invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is
1. Imparting a differential axial motion to the vertical rotating shuttle as and
for the purpose above set forth, and the means described with reference to Figures 1
to 3 inclusive, for producing such differential motion.
2. The means above described with reference to Diagram Fig. 8, for imparting
an intermittent pressure to the needle thread below the work, and thereby relieving
the last formed stitch from the drag of the shuttle while passing through the loop.
3. In combination with the take-up apparatus, the means described for putting
an intermittent pressure on the friction discs which control the tension of the
needle thread.
4. The means described with reference to Figures 10 to 12ª inclusive, for giving
access to the thread case of the vertical rotary shuttle.