IMPROVEMENTS IN THE PRODUCTION OF FRILLING AND GATHERED WORK, AND IN APPARATUS TO BE USED FOR THESE PURPOSES
Year: 1878

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Charles Grey Hill, of Nottingham, for the Invention of
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE PRODUCTION OF FRILLING AND GATHERED WORK,
AND IN APPARATUS TO BE USED FOR THESE PURPOSES."
Scaled the 3rd November 1878, and dated the 10th September 1878.'
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Charles Grey Hill at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 10th September 1878.
CHARLES GREY HILL, of Nottingham. "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE PRODUCTION OF
FRILLING AND GATHERED WORK, AND IN APPARATUS TO BE USED FOR THESE
PURPOSES."
To produce gathered work from a band which has been previously crimped,
pleated, or goferred, I use a gatherer, working against a plate above or below it to
carry forward the crimped, pleated or goferred fabric, and deliver it to a pair of
narrow pressing rollers. One or two threads or narrow bands of fabric coated with
moist cementing material may here be led on to the pleated fabric and be pressed
on to it by the rollers. Thus a flat band or strip may be formed longitudinally
along the centre of the gathered fabric, whilst the edges are left in comparatively
open crimps or folds. Or in place of thus forming a single flat strip or band longi-
tudinally of the fabric two or more such strips might in the same way be formed
along it by employing more than one pair of pressing rollers to act on different
parts of the fabric. The pressing rollers are caused to revolve with a step-by-step
motion at the same time that the gatherer moves forward the pleated fabric, and
provision is made for enabling the amount of movement given to the rollers to be
varied according to the nature of the fabric it is required to produce.
Two pleated bands of fabric can similarly be united together, the two pleated
fabrics being led one above and the other below a division plate up to the pressing
rollers, and separate gatherers being used to act above and below the division
plate.

page_text: The division plate may be hollow to admit of a third fabric, either plain or other-
wise, being introduced between the gathered fabrics.
In some cases in place of forming the gathered work from previously pleated or
crimped strips of fabric I form it from uncrimped strips of fabric. In this case I
pass the plain strip of fabric between two pairs of crimping rollers placed end to
end, with a slight distance between the two pairs, or two pairs of endless crimping
chains might be used in place of rollers, and I cause the crimping rollers to deliver
the fabric in a crimped state to a pair of narrow pressing rollers which are between
the pairs of crimping rollers, and which can be driven at the same or different speed
from that at which the crimped fabric is delivered to them by the crimping rollers,
and where the rollers act threads or narrow fabric coated with cementing material
may be pressed by them on to the fabric to secure the pleats.
The pressing rollers being situated between the pairs of crimping rollers pressing
rollers of any desired diameter may be used and yet have the nip of the pressing
rollers either in a line with the crimping rollers or at any distance from them. The
pressing rollers also being independent of the crimping rollers allows of their being
driven at a different speed to them, as before explained.
One of the pressing rollers may have recesses in its periphery at intervals to
allow the crimped fabric as it is pressed forward by the crimping apparatus to
accumulate somewhat in the recesses and form pleats or fulnesses in the fabric. In
this case a third roller may be used as a pressing roller to act against the plain roller
of the first pair to press the cemented threads on to the fabric.
The roller which is notched, as previously described, may have a groove or grooves
around it for the threads, which are laid on to the fabric to lie in so that the threads
shall not be pressed on to the fabric by the first pair of rollers. Or the gathered
fabric might be conducted forwards from a single pair of crimping and gathering
rollers to pressing rollers between needles or plates, and the pleats thus retained
until they are nipped and secured by the action of the pressing rollers. In this
case two or more pairs of pressing rollers can be used.
Crimped work might similarly be fed forward by two sets of plain rollers, or by
a single set, to a pair or pairs of independent pressing rollers, and a similar result
obtained.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said Charlos Groy Hill in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 10th March
1879.
CHARLES GREY HILL, of Nottingham. "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE PRODUCTION OF
FRILLING AND GATHERED WORK, AND IN APPARATUS TO BE USED FOR THESE
PURPOSES."
To produce gathered work from a band which has been previously crimped,
pleated, or goferred, I uso a gatherer working against a plate above or below it to
carry forward the crimped, plented, or goferred fabric, and deliver it to a pair of
narrow pressing rollers. One or two threads or narrow bands of fabric coated with
moist cementing material may here be led on to the pleated fabric and be pressed
on to it by the rollers. Thus a flat band or strip may be formed longitudinally
along the centre of the gathered fabric whilst the edges are left in comparatively
open crimps or folds. Or in place of thus forming a single flat strip or band longi-
tudinally of the fabric two or more such strips may in the same way be formed
along it by employing more than one pair of pressing rollers to act on different
parts of the fabric. The pressing rollers are caused to revolve with a step-by-step
motion at the same time that the gatherer moves forward the pleated fabric, and
provision is made for enabling the amount of movement given to the rollers to bo
varied according to the nature of the fabric it is required to produce.
Two pleated bands of fabric can similarly bo united together, the two pleated
fabrics being led one above and the other below a division plate up to the pressing
rollers, and separate gatherers being used to act above and below the division plate.
The division plate may be hollow to admit of a third fabric, cither plain or other-
wise, boing introduced between the gathered fabrics.
In some cases in place of forming the gathered work from previously pleated or
crimped strips of fabric I form it from uncrimped strips of fabric. In this case I
pass the plain strip of fabric between two pairs of crimping rollers placed end to
end with a slight distance between the two pairs, or two pairs of endless crimping
chains might be used in place of rollers; and I cause the crimping rollers to deliver
the fabric in a crimped state into guides, and so to pass it on to a pair of narrow
pressing rollers which are between the pairs of crimping rollers, and which can be
driven at the same or different speed from that at which the crimped fabric is
delivered to them by the crimping rollers, and where the rollers act threads or
narrow fabrics coated with cementing material may be pressed by them on to the
fabric to secure the pleats.
The pressing rollers being independent of the crimping rollers allows of their
being driven at a different speed.
One of the pressing rollers may have recesses in its periphery at intervals to
allow the crimped fabric as it is pressed forward by the crimping apparatus to accu-
mulate somewhat in the recesses and form pleats or fulnesses in the fabric.
In this
case a third roller may be used as a pressing roller to act against the plain roller of
the first pair to press the cemented threads on to the fabric.
The roller which is notched, as previously described, may have a groove or grooves
around it for the threads which are laid on to the fabric to lie in so that the threads
shall not be pressed on to the fabric by the first pair of rollers.
Two or more pairs of pressing rollers can be used.
In order that my said Invention may be most fully understood, and readily
carried into effect, I will proceed to describe the Drawings hereunto annexed.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.
Figure 1 is a plan, Figure 2 is an elevation, and Figure 3 is a transverse section
of the machine which I employ for producing by the aid of a reciprocating gatherer
and pressing rollers frilling or gathered work from previously crimped or goffered
fabric.

page_text: a, a, is the frame of the machine; b is the work plate or table; c is the main
axis, which is driven in any convenient manner; d is a slide; and e is the gatherer
fixed to the slide, its acting surfaces e', e', are serrated. The slide d is slotted at d
and d; the pin a¹ fixed in the frame passes through the slot d, and the eccentric
or cranked portion c¹ of the axis c passes through the slot d. c is a cam or eccentric
on the axis c which acts against a shoulder on the slido d. f is a spring which
draws the slide towards the cam or eccentric and keeps the shoulder in contact
except when an adjustable stop, not shown in the Drawing, is applied to limit the
movement of the slide. Thus it will be seen that the acting surfaces of the gatherer
receive a reciprocating motion; as they advance they rise above the surface of the
table b through slots formed for them, but as they retire they descend beneath the
surface of the table. g is a plate against which the gatherer works, and the goffered
or crimped fabric to be gathered and set is inserted between the plate and the
surface of the table. The plate g is held down towards the table by the springs
g, g', but the plate is so bent as to leave clear spaces on either side by which the
fabric can pass without receiving pressure, the pressure of the plate upon the fabric
being confined to the centre portion of the width, where the flattened band serving
to retain the frilling or gathering is to be formed. h, h, aro a pair of narrow
prossing rollers, their axes are carried by bearings in the frame, and they are geared
together by the wheels h¹, h¹. h is a ratchet wheel on the axis of the lower roller h.
The rollers are rotated step by step by a tooth on the rod i which engages with the
teeth of the ratchet wheel. The rod i receives a reciprocating movement from the
eccentric on the main axis. By changing the ratchet wheel h³ or the eccentric c³,
or both, the speed of the narrow pressing rollers h can be regulated as may be
desired.
The pressing rollers h by their nip form a flat band along the centre of the fabric,
and to ensure the band being set the rollers are heated. For this purpose small
gas flames are made to play on their axes; h, k, are the gas pipes. The setting of
the band is further ensured by the application of a small amount of moisture, which
I do by introducing moist threads between the fabric and the upper roller. The
moisture and heat soften momentarily the stiffening of the fabric, which is usually
a thin muslin or similar texture, and the pressure effectually sets the band. The
threads may afterwards be stripped off if desired.
The pressing rollers can be changed so that narrower or wider bands may be
produced as may be desired.
As already stated I sometimes use two or more pairs of pressing rollers, or I leave
spaces between the pressing surfaces of the rollers, and so I form two or more
pressed bands, leaving unpressed fabric between the bands.
In some cases in place of emptying plain pressing rollers I form them with
elevations and depressions, and thereby produce an embossed or raised ornament
upon the band or bands
Sometimes after leaving the machine the work is divided along the centre of the
band.
In some cases I make a double frilling by supplying to the machine two fabrics
of different widths, and one lying upon the other. In this case the two fabrics
will be gathered together, but if it be desired that they should be gathered separately
a second reciprocating gatherer may be applied above the surface of the table, as is
shown in Figures 4 and 5. Figure 4 is a transverse section and Figure 5 an eleva-
tion of some of the parts. The additional gatherer E is attached to a slide D, which
receives movement in the same manner as the slide d, but the gatherer E is so
formed as to operate upon the upper side of a second fabric, which is retained in the
same way as the first or lower fabric.
The acting surfaces of the gatherer E descend through slots in a retaining plate,
shown in plan, Figure 6.
Figure 7 is an elevation, Figure 8 is a plan, and Figure 9 is a transverse section
of a machine which I employ when I make frilling and gathered work from material
which has not been prepared by a previous goffering or pleating. It consists of

page_text: two pairs of crimping rollers a, a, a', a', of which the axes of one pair are aligned
with the axes of the other pair. The lower roller of each pair is driven by a pinion
on its axis in gear with a spur whoel on the driving axis. The upper rollers a, a',
aro geared with the lower by pinions a³, a². b, b, are a pair of narrow pressing
rollers on axes of their own; they are geared together by the pinions b', b¹, and the
lower pressing roller is driven by change wheels, one on its own axis and the other
on the axis of the lower roller a. By altering theso wheels any desired relative
speed may be obtained.
I also in some cases make the bearings of the rollers b adjustable so that their
nip may be set in various positions. The guides c, c, are wires clamped to the frame
with an adjustable space between them; they serve to convey the fabric from the
rollers a, a, to the rollers b. The crimping or feeding rollers revolving with a
higher surface speed than the pressing rollers the fabric is packed in and fulled
between the guides c, and in this state the pressing rollers take it and set a band
or bands along the centre of the frilled fabric, as already described, there being
appliances for the supply of heat and moisture, as already explained.
In place of having the rollers a and a' on separate axes they may be on the same
axis, a sufficient space or groove being left for the passage of the guides c, c.
Sometimes where a comparatively broad band is required I use more than one
pair of guides c, c, and in this case separate grooves are formed in the rollers a, a',
for each pair of guides c.
Figure 10 is an elevation, Figure 11 is a plan, and Figure 12 is a transverse
section of a machine somewhat similar to that just described, but intended to work
with fabric which is already goffered or pleated. It consists of a pair of rollers a, a,
with interlocking grooves, and with spaces to permit the passage between them of
the guides band 6. The lower guide b is a slotted plate, bent to the form clearly
seen in Figure 12, whilst the upper guides b' are bent wires. The guides present
the fabric fed forward by the rollers a to the pressing rollers c, c, on the sides of
which are tho roller recesses c¹, c'; these aid in forming the frills or gathers on
either side of the band or bands, which are set by the pressing rollers. The machine
is driven through a clutch by a pinion d on the main axis, gearing with a spur
wheel on the axis of the lower pressing roller. These rollers are geared together by
pinions c, as are also the feeding rollers a by pinions a¹. d, d³, d³, are change
wheels by which motion is transmitted from the lower pressing roller to the lower
feed roller. By varying these wheels the feed rollers can be made to revolve as
much more rapidly than the pressing rollers, as the nature of the work may render
desirable. The appliances for setting the band or bands are as already described.
In some cases the threads by which moisture is conveyed will render the upper
guides b¹ unnecessary, such threads being passed in grooves beneath the upper
roller a, and being applied to and pressed down upon the band by the pressing
rollers c.
In some cases I apply a partition plate between the gathering rollers a, a, and
continue it nearly up to the pressing rollers c, c, and so gather and carry forward
two fabrics simultaneously up to and between the pressing rollers and roller
recesses.
In place of the feeding or gathering rollers a, a, a gathering blade or foot may
be employed, as in Figures 1, 2, and 3, or a pair of reciprocating gatherers with a
partition plate may be used to operate simultaneously on two widths of fabric, as
described in respect to Figures 4 and 5.
The roller recesses c' for shaping and giving form to the frills and gatherers need
not be upon the pressing rollers but may be on separate rollers, as is indicated by
the Figures 13 and 14, in which one recessed roller and a pair of pressing rollers
are employed, or as in Figure 15, in which there is a pair of recessed rollers followed
by a pair of pressing rollers.
Having thus described the nature of my said Invention, and the manner of
performing the same, I would have it understood that I claim,-
First. The production of frilling or gathered work by crimping, pleating, or

page_text: goffering a fabric by suitable and well-known apparatus then with the fabric so
prepared by means of mechanism consisting of gathering blades and pressing rollers,
gathering or frilling the fabric and pressing a portion of the width in such manner
as to set it and forin it into a band or bands, substantially as described.
Second. The combination of a reciprocating gatherer with pressing rollers, sub-
stantially as described, such gatherer acting to full or gather a fabric or fabrics
whilst the rollers serve to press down and set a part of the width, making thereby
a band or bands, leaving the rest of the fabric unpressed.
Third. The combination of two gatherers and a division plate with pressing
rollers, substantially as described, such gatherers acting to full or gather two
fabrics, whilst the rollers serve to press down and set a part of the width, making
thereby a band or bands, leaving the rest of the fabric unpressed.
Fourth. The combination of crimping or other feeding rollers or instruments
with guides and with pressing rollers in such manner that the speed of the feeders
being greater than that of the pressers the fabric is accumulated and fulled between
the guides, and whilst so held a portion to form a band or bands is pressed, sub-
stantially as described.
Fifth. The combination of the following parts, viz., crimping or other feeding
rollers or instruments, guides, and pressing rollers, with roller recesses formed in or
separate from the pressing rollers, and aiding to form the fulnesses of the fabric,
substantially as described.
Sixth. The pressing rollers and the roller recesses as in Figures 10, 11, and 12,
the roller recesses serving to place or form the pleated or goffered fabric without
crushing the pleats or goffers, whilst the rollers with the aid of heat and moisture
set into a band parts adjacent to the forms given by the roller recesses, which forms
are thus rendered permanent, substantially as described.
Seventh. The apparatus substantially as described, and represented in the annexed
Drawings.
In witness whereof, I, the said Charles Grey Hill, have hereunto set my hand
and seal, this Seventh day of March, in the year of our Lord One thousand
eight hundred and seventy-nine.