AN IMPROVED SEWING MACHINE FOR BRAIDING HAT BRIMS, CORK SOLES, AND FOR SIMILAR USES
Year: 1884

page_text: I FREDERICK WILLIAM CHEETHAM, of 131 Great Norbury Street, Hyde,
Cheshire, Hat Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of said Invention for
AN IMPROVED SEWING MACHINE FOR BRAIDING HAT BRIMS, CORK SOLES, AND FOR
SIMILAR USES to be as follows:-
My invention relates to what are known as glove sewing machines and the object
of my Invention is to improve their construction so as to enable cane, reed, cord;
wire or other suitable material to be sewn by the machine on hats, or to finish or
braid the edges of cork soles and other articles when such a finish or binding is
required.
In these sewing machines as at present constructed it has not hitherto been
possible to perform the above named operations as the front feed roller interfered
with the crown of the hat or body of the sole or other article.
In performing my Invention I dispense with the ordinary front feed roller and
substitute a small roller or "foot" preferably mounted on a spring in such a
position that this small roller or foot presses the brim of the hat or the edge of the
sole or other article to be sewn or braided against the back roller which is preferably
roughened or serrated to ensure the proper forward feed of the material.
In order that the small roller or foot may be moved out of the way when desired
the end of the spring can be pivoted to the frame.
REDERICK WILLIAM CHEETHAM.
H. B. Barlow,
: Agent for Applicant,
4, Mansfield Chambers,
17, St Ann's Square, Manchester.

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
I FREDERICK WILLIAM CHEETHAM, of 131 Great Norbury Street, Hyde,
Cheshire, Hat Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of said Invention for
AN IMPROVED. SEWING MACHINE FOR BRAIDING HAT BRIMS, CORK SOLES, AND FOR
SIMILAR USES, and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
My invention relates to what are known as glove sewing machines and the object
of my Invention is to improve their construction so as to enable cane, reed, cord,
wire, or other suitable material to be sewn by the machine on hats or to finish or
braid the edges of cord.soles and other articles when such a finish or binding is
required.
In these sewing machines as at present constructed it has not hitherto been
possible to perform the above named operations as the front feed roller interfered
with the crown of the hat or body of the sole or other article.
In performing my Invention I dispense with the ordinary front feed roller and
substitute a small roller or "foot" preferably mounted on a spring in such a
position that this small roller or foot presses the brim of the hat or the edge of the
sole or other article to be sewn or braided against the back roller which is preferably
roughened or serrated to ensure the proper forward feed of the material.
In order that the small roller or foot may be moved out of the way when
desired, the end of the spring can be pivoted to the frame.
And in order that my Invention may be fully understood and readily carried
into effect I will proceed to describe the accompanying Sheet of Drawings, reference
being bad to the figures and letters marked thereon.
Fig. 1 is a front view. Fig. 2 a side view and Fig. 3 a plan of a sewing machine,
known as a glove sewing machine, to which my improvements are applied. Fig. 4
is a plan and Fig. 5 a side view showing a modified arrangement for supporting
the small feed roller.
Similar letters refer to similar parts throughout the several views.
In Figs. 1 to 3.-a is the body or frame of the sewing machine; b is the needle ;
c is the back feed roller driven in the ordinary manner in the direction shown by
the arrow Fig. 3, and with an upper flange roughened or, provided with fine teeth
on its surface; d is the small feed roller carried by an arm or spring e pivoted to
the frame at e¹ to allow it to be readily removed out of the way into the position
indicated by dotted-lines Fig. 3 when for instance an article to be braided is about
to be put into the machine; -f is an adjustable bracket with a slot fl on its upper
surface secured to the machine; this bracket serves as a guide for the brim or
edge of the hat or other article and for the wire cord or other material which
passes through the slot.f previous to being sewn to the hat; g is the lever with a
hook gl which passes forward with the needle; in the Drawings I have shown this
hook g pointed and made with an eye for a thread, but the hook may be plain
and only one needle and thread may be used if preferred.
Previous to starting the machine and after threading the needle and the hook g',
the small feed roller & is moved back into the position shown by dotted lines; the

page_text: rim or edge of the hat or other article is placed in position and held against the
flange of the feed roller c under the bracket f: the end of the wire, cord or other
material his passed from above through the slot f¹ on to the article, the roller d is
then moved back into position to press the hat or other article against the roller o
when the machine may be set in motion. The needle bas it moves forward passes
through the brim or edge to be braided and at the same time the hook g¹ moves
forward round the end of the guide f; as the needle b moves backward the end gl
of the hook (when over the roller d) passes over the needle band under the loose
thread and carries the loop with it back over the cord or wire holding the thread
in front of the needle ready for the latter in its next stitch to pass under the hook
and through the loop thus drawing the thread tight over the cord or wire and
uniting or binding the latter to the hat or other article.
In the arrangement shown in Figs. 4 and 5 instead of pivoting the arm e to the
machine I fit the arm e in a slide on the frame and I pivot to the arm e a lever i
the end of which is cam shaped so that by turning the lever down into the position
indicated by dotted lines on Fig. 5 the arm e is moved forward and carries the
roller d away from the back feed roller c, until the lever i is moved upward when
the spring draws back the arm e and causes the roller d to hold the work in
position against the roller c.
In place of the small roller d a movable feed plate or other equivalent may be
employed to press the work against the back feed roller c which feeds the hat or
other article forward in the usual manner.
By the application of the small roller d or its equivalent to a glove or other
over seaming sewing machine, a variety of articles can be conveniently and
expeditiously braided or sewn which could not be done if the ordinary feed rollers
were employed.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
Invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is
1. In a glove sewing or other over seaming machine dispensing with the
ordinary front feed roller and substituting a small roller d or its equivalent
whereby the front of the machine is left clear, substantially in the manner and
for the purposes herein set forth.
2. The construction, combination, and arrangement of parts forming the
improved sewing machine for braiding hat brims, cork soles and for similar uses,
substantially as herein shown and described.
3. The combination with the slotted bracket f and ordinary feed roller c of
the small feed roller d or its equivalent, substantially as herein shown and
described, for the purposes specified.