Improvements in Cork Sole Boots or Shoes, and in the Process of Manufacturing the same.
Year: 1895

page_text: 1
Date of Application, 9th May, 1895
omplete Specification Left, 10th Feb., 1896-Accepted, 21st Mar., 1896
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION
Improvements in Cork Sole Boots or Shoes, and in the Process of
Manufacturing the same.
I, JAMES GRIEVE LORRAIN, of Norfolk House, Norfolk Street, Strand,
London, W.C, in the County of Middlesex, Chartered Patent Agent, do hereby
declare the nature of this invention (as communicated to me from abroad by
The Goodyear Shoe Maobinery Company, of Portland, in the State of Maine,
United States of America) to be as follows :-
This invention relates to shoes of the class commonly called cork sole shoes, in
which a cork sole or other filling sole is interposed between the outsole and inside
of the shoe.
In coil sole shoes as now commonly constructed, the cork sole welt, consisting
of a filling strip and a casing of leather enclosing the same, is secured to the insole
by two scums or rows of stitching, commonly called inseams, sewed in two separate
channels of the insole of the shoe, the filling of the cork sole welt and one half of
its casing being attached to the upper and insole by an inseam in one channel and
the other half of the cork welt casing and the main welt being secured by a second
inseam stitched in the second channel of the insole.
"
In the construction above indicated, after the first inseam has been sewed, the
Faid casing does not envelop the filling, but one edge projects from the edge of
the insole, on that portion thereof to which the cork is applied, forming a "flap
so called which must be lasted over the filling before the second inseam 18
stitched.
The cork sole shoe made as above described 18 objectionable, in that the main
Belt 18 secured to the insole by a single seam stitched in the second channel of
the insole, which second channel is made smaller than the first channel, and as a
The
result, the main wolt is insecurely attached to the insole of the shoe.
foregoing construction 18 further objectionable in that it involves in the process
of making the shoe a second lasting operation which is necessarily slow and
expensive.
This invention has for its object to remove the objections above cited and to
provide a cork sole shoe of increased strength and durability, which can be made
upon shine sewing machines as now constructed without change to the machine and
without the use of auxiliary tools or implements.
In accordance with this invention the cork sole welt, consisting of a filling and
enclosing casing of leather for the same, is prepared before being applied to the
shoe, and 18 then attached to the insole and upper by an inseam stitched in a
channel of the insole, sail inseam extending through the filling and both folds of
the casing. The main welt is then attached to the cork sole welt and to the upper
and insole by a second inseam, stitched in the same chauuel of the insole, the
second inseam extending through the welt, both folds of the cork welt casing, the
cork welt filling, the upper and into the same channel of the insole.
By placing both inseams in the same channel as above described the main welt
and cork sole welt are more firmly attached to the upper and insole, which results
n making a stronger and more durable shoe of the class described. By extending
the first inseam through the filling and both folds of the casing of the cork sole

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upper,
which
welt, I am enabled to finish the cork sole wolt before its application to the shoe,
which is a very desirable feature since it dispenses with the expensive second
lasting process, and the cork sole welt can be brought closer to the
imparts to the completed shoe a more finished appearance. It is to be further
noted that since both inseams are stitched in the same channel of the insole, which
may conveniently be the channel commonly found in the insole of welted shoes, the
construction is particularly adapted for existing forms of shoe sewing machinery.
This invention, therefore, consists of a boot or shoe having a main welt and a
cork sole welt secured to the insole by two inseams made in the same channel of
the insole, and it funther consists in the process of making the same as heroinafter
more fully set forth.
Figure 1 represents in elevation a cork sole shoe or boot provided with what is
known as a "half cork welt" and embodying this invention,
Figure 2 is a transverse section on line 2-2 of Fig. 1 showing, in invorted
position, the cork sole welt secured to the insola before the main welt is attached
to said insole, the outsole, the main welt and the filling sole being omitted in this
figure.
Figure 3 is an enlarged sectional detail showing the main welt secured to the
insole by a second inseam stitched in the same channel as the first seam which
secures the cork sole welt to the insole, and
Figure 4 is an enlarged sectional detail of one half of the completed shoe with
the outsole attached to the main welt and the cork filling interposed between the
ausole and outsole.
Similar letters and figures of roference refer to similar parts throughout the
several views.
"
The shoe A, represented in Fig. 1 as a shoe of the type sometimes tormed
Congress shoe," and provided with a half cork sole, is made in accordance with
this insention in the following manner. -
The insole a is attached to the last a 1, and the upper a 2 18 stretched over and
secured to the insole a in any suitable manner as is now commonly practised. The
insolo a is provided with the usual channel a 3.
In accordance with this invention, the inner sole a has secured to it a cork sole
welt comprising a filling b and a casing 1 folded over the same so as to envelope
the said filling.
In accordance with this invention, the cork sole well is prepared before being
applied to the inner sole, which is effected by folding the casing 61 over the
filling b, and when thus made, the cork sole welt is secured to the upper a 2 and to
the insole a by an inseam 62 which passes through the lower fold 2 of the
casing 61, the filling b, the upper fold 3 of the casing, the upper a 2 and through a
portion of the insole a into the channel a 3. The inseam 62 may be stitched on
existing forms of shoe sewing machines without change or addition to the machine.
After the cork sole wolt has been secured to the upper and insole as above stated,
the main welt c, (Figures 3 and 4) is then secured to the insole a by a second
inseam 1, which extends through the main welt c, the lower fold 2 of the
casing 1, the filling b, the upper fold 3 of the casing 1, the upper a 2 and a
portion of the insole a into the channel a 3 as clearly shown in Figs 3 and 4.
The shoe may be completed by attaching the outsole d to the main welt c by the
outseam d 1 in the usual manner, the cork filling d 2 being interposed between the
outsole and insole as represented in Figure 4.
I am aware of the state of the art as shown in Letters Patent Issued by the
United States of America to Des Lauries No. 425598, dated April 15th, 1890
Diey No. 496822, dated May 2nd, 1893 and Brooks No. 152067 dated June 16th,
1874 and I claim nothing shown and described in these Letters Patent; the
constructions shown in said Letters Patent being clearly distinguishable from the
present invention, in that each requires a second channel for the second useam
and a second lasting operation to enfold the cork,welt filling with the casing
It will therefore readily be seen that a finished shoe involving the construction

page_text: of the Letters Patent cited is more expensive and lacks the durability and finish
of a shoe constructed in accordance with the present invention as hereinbefore
described.
J. G. LORRAIN,
Chartered Patent Agent.
Improvements in Cork Sole BOOLS
ог
Manufacturing the same.
IE CHC
A communication fiom abroad by THE GOODYEAR SHOE MACHINERY
COMPANY, of Portland, in the State of Mame, United States of America.
I, JAMES GRIEVE LORRAIN, M. Inst. E E, MI. Mech E, of Norfolk House,
Norfolk Street, Strand, London, W.C, in the County of Middlesex, Charterel
Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what mauner
the same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertamed in and
by the following statement.
This invention relates to shoes of the class commonly called cork sole shoes, in
which a cork sole or other filling sole is inter posed between the outsole and inside
of the shoe.
In cork sole shoes as commonly constructed, the cork sole welt, consisting of a
filling strip and a casing of leather enclosing the same, is secured to the insole by
two seams or rows of stitching, commonly called inseams, sewed in two separate
channels of the insole of the shoe, the filling of the cork sole welt and one half of
its casing being attached to the upper and insole by an inseam in one chanuel and
the other half of the cork welt casing and the main welt being secured by a second
inseam stitched in the second channel of the insole.
In the construction above indicated, after the first inseam has been sewed, the
said casing does not envelope the filling, but one edge projects from the edge of
the insole, on that portion thereof to which the cork is applied, forming a
Hup" so called which must be lasted over the filling before the second seam is
stitched.
66
The cork sole shoe made as above described is objectionable in that the main
wolt 18 secured to the insole by a single inseam stitched in the second channel of
the insole, which second channel is made smaller than the first channel, and as a
The
result, the main welt is insecurely attached to the insole of the shoe.
foregoing construction is further objectionable in that it involves in the process
of making the shoe a second lasting operation which 18 necessary slow and
expensive.
This invention has for its object to remove the objections above cited and to
provide a cork sole shoe of increased strength and durability, which can be made
upon shoe sewing machines as now constructed without change to the machine and
without the use of auxiliary tools or implements.
In accordance with this invention the cork sole welt, consisting of a filling and
enclosing casing of leather for the same, is prepared before being applied to the
shoe, and is then attached to the insole and upper by an inseam stitched in a
channel of the sole, said inseau extending though the filling and both folds of
the casing. The main welt is then attached to the cork sole welt and to the appoi
and insole by a second inseam, stitched in the same channel of the insole, the second
inseam extending through the welt, both folds of the cork welt casing, the cork
welt filling, the upper and into the same channel of the insole.
By placing both inseams in the same channel as above described the main well

page_text: and cork sole welt ate more firmly attached to the upper and insole, which results
in making a stronger and more durable shoe of the class described. By extending
the first inseam through the filling and both folds of the casing of the cork sole
welt, I am enabled to finish the cork solo welt before its application to the shoe,
which is a very deanable feature since it dispenses with the expensive second
lusting process, and the cork sole welt can be brought closer to the upper, which
imparts to the completed shoe a mote finished appearance. It is to be further
noted that since both inseams are stitched in the save chaunel of the insole, which
may convemently be the channel commonly found in the insole of welted shoes,
the construction is particularly adapted for existing forms of shoe sewing
machinery.
This invention, therefore, consists of a boot or shoe having a main welt and a
cork sole welt secured to the insole by two inseams made in the same channel of
the insole, and it further consists in the process of making the same as hereinafter
more fully set forth and claimed.
In the drawings left with the Provisional Specification
Figure 1 represents in elevation a cork sole shoe or boot provided with what is
known as a 66
half cork welt" and embodying this invention.
Figure 2 is a transverse section on line 2--2 of Fig. 1 showing, in inveite !
position, the cork sole welt secured to the insole before the mam welt is attached
to said insole, the outsole, the main welt and the filling sole being omitted in this
figme.
Figure 3 is an enlarged sectional detail showing the main welt secured to the
insole by a second inseam stitched in the same channel as the first inseam which
secures the cork sole welt to the insole, and
Figure 4 is an enlarged sectional detail of oue halt of the completed shoe with
the outsole attached to the main welt and the cork filling interposed between the
insole and outsole.
Similar letters and figures of reference refer to similar parts throughout the
several views
"
The shoe A, represented in Fig. 1 as a shoe of the type sometimes termed
Congress shoe" and provided with a half coh sole, is made in accordance with
this invention in the following manuer :-
The insole a 19 attached to the last a', and the upper a is stretched over and
secured to the insole a in any suitable manner as 19 now commonly practised. The
insole a is provided with the usual channel a³.
In accordance with this invention, the inuer sole a has secured to it a cork sole
welt comprising a filling & and a casing & folded over the same so as to envelope
the said filling.
In accordance with this invention, the cork sole welt is prepared before being
applied to the inner sole, which is effected by folding the casing over the filling,
and when thus made, the cork sole welt is secured to the upper a' and to the
insole a by an inseam which passes through the lower fold 2 of the casing, the
hling, the upper fold 3 of the casing, the upper a and through a portion of
the sole a into the channel a. The inseam & may be stitched on existing forms
of shoe sewing machines without change or addition to the machine. After the
cork sole welt has been secured to the upper and insole as above stated, the main
welt c, (Figures 3 and 4) is then secured to the insole a by a second inseum d
which extends through the main welt c, the lower fold 2 of the casing &', the
filling, the upper fold 3 of the casing 6, the upper a' and a portion of the insole a
into the channel as as clearly shown in Figs. 3 and 4
The shoe may be completed by attaching the outsole d to the main welt c by the
outsenm in the usual inanner, the cork filling being interposed between the
outsole and insole as represented in Figure 4
I am aware of the state of the art as shown in Letters Patent issued by the
United States of America to Des Lauties No. 425598, dated April 15th, 1890,
Diey No. 496822, dated May 2nd, 1893 and Brooks No. 152067 dated June 16th,

page_text: 1874, and 1 claim nothing shown and described in these Letters Patent; the
constructions shown in said Letters Patent being clearly distinguishable from the
present invention, in that each requires a second channel for the second inseam and
a second lasting operation to enfold the cork welt filling with the casing. It will
therefore readily be seen that finished shoe involving the construction of the
Letters Patent cited 18 more expensive and lacks the durability and finish of a
shoe constructed in accordance with the present invention as hereinbefore
described.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inveo-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim 15-
1. As an improved article of manufacture, a boot or shoe having an insole, a
welt, an interposed cork sole welt, and two inseams stitched in the same channel
in the insole whereby the welt and cork sole welt are secured thereto, substantially
As described.
2. The process of making cork sole boots or shoes consisting of stitching the
finished cork sole welt to the lasted insole aud upper, then stitching the welt
through the cork sole welt to the lasted insole and upper, then stitching the outsole
to the welt in the usual manner, substantially as described.
3. The process of making cork sole boots and shoes consisting of stitching the
cork sole welt to a chanuel in the insole after the upper has been lasted thereto,
then stitching the welt through the cork sole welt to the same channel in the
insole, then stitching the outsole to the welt in the usual manner, substantially as
described.
TA '
1000
J. G. LORRAIN,
Chartered Patent Agent,
Acting for the said Goodyear Shoe Machinery Company.