IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY. AND APPARATUS APPLICABLE TO TWIST LACE MACHINES TO PRODUCE COMBINATION, SWISS, AND EMBROIDERED COLOURED FABRICS."
Year: 1881

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to John Newton, of Kimberley, in the County of Nottingham,
for an Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY. AND APPARATUS
APPLICABLE TO TWIST LACE MACHINES TO PRODUCE COMBINATION, SWISS,
AND EMBROIDERED COLOURED FABRICS."
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said John Newton at the Office
of the Commissioners of Patents on the 22nd March 1881.
JOHN NEWTON, of Kimberley, in the County of Nottingham.
" IMPROVEMENTS
IN MACHINERY AND APPARATUS APPLICABLE TO TWIST LACE MACHINES TO
PRODUCE COMBINATION, SWISS, AND EMBROIDERED COLOURED FABRICS."
In a twist lace machine of the usual construction, when making what is known
as a combination fabric, I employ a warp bar and a spool bar, each carrying a full
set of guides, the warp bar being operated by a cam cut to the required form, and the
spool bar by a cam of the usual construction, the warp bar being at the front and
the spool bar at the back, the threads of both bars being acted upon by jacks;
these jacks when lifted clear out of the threads by a single hook jacquard, make
fining or cloth work, and when lifted out half the distance make pillaring, and
when not acted upon by the jacquard makes the ground work or net, thus making
perfectly smooth pillaring. When making a Swiss fabric I employ three full guide
bars, the front bar being supplied with fine or coarse threads from spools, the
centre bar being supplied with threads from the warp beam or beams, and the back
bar being supplied with coarse or fine tnreads from spools. Or I may employ the
warp bar at the front or back of the spool bars, the warp and back spool bars being
operated in the usual way, and the front spool bar by a cam cut to the required
form.
When making embroidered coloured fabrics, I employ one colour in one spool bar
and another colour in the other spool bar. By such means I am enabled to produce
fabrics shewing the same colours on each side.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed
by the said John Newton in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 21st
September 1881.
JOHN NEWTON, of Kimberley, in the County of Nottingham. "IMPROVEMENTS
IN MACHINERY AND APPARATUS APPLICABLE TO TWIST LACE MACHINES TO
PRODUCE COMBINATION, SWISS, AND EMBROIDERED COLOURED FABRICS."
In a twist lace machine of the usual construction, when making what is known
as a combination fabric, I employ a warp bar and a spool bar, each carrying a full
set of guides, the warp bar being operated by a cam cut to the required form, and
the spool bar by a cam of the usual construction, the warp bar being at the front
and the spool bar at the back, the threads of both bars being acted upon by jacks;
these jacks when lifted clear out of the threads by a single hook jacquard make
fining or cloth work, and when lifted out half the distance, make pillaring, and
when not acted upon by the jacquard makes the ground work or net, thus making
perfectly smooth pillaring. When making a Swiss fabric I employ three full guide
bars, the front bar being supplied with fine or coarse threads from spools, the centre
bar being supplied with threads from the warp beam or beams, and the back bar
being supplied with coarse or fine threads from spools.
Or I may employ the warp bar at the front or back of the spool bars, the warp
and back spool bars being operated in the usual way, and the front spool bar by a
cam cut to the required form, and when making embroidered colored fabrics I
employ one color in one spool bar, and another color in the other spool bar. By such
means I am enabled to produce fabrics shewing the same colors on each side."
Figure 1 represents a portion of draft paper with a pattern drafted thereon in
two colors. Suppose the colors- employed to be red and blue, red represents, the
pattern and blue the net or open work. In the Figure the cheques on the paper
are ruled with vertical lines for red, and diagonal lines for blue.
Figures 2 and 3 are side views of two cam wheels I employ for operating certain
guide bars, severally referred to hereafter.
In a twist lace machine of the usual construction, when making what is known
as a combination fabric; in addition to the bar or bars required to make scallops or
purls, I employ a warp bar and a spool bar, each carrying a full set of guides and.
threads. The drafting of the pattern is the same as for an ordinary combination
fabric, that is to say, in two colors. In the accompanying Drawings red represents
the pattern, and blue the net or open work; but the draft is read different to the.
usual method, the pattern (red) and blanks uncolored being taken up by the reader,.
the net or open-work (blue) being left. I employ a single hook jacquard with two
strings to each jack, one string to lift the jack the full beight, that is, clear of the
threads, the other string to lift the jack half the full height to clear the warp.
threads, thus enabling me to jack the threads in either or both guide bars. I also
employ a new cut of cam wheel, shewn at Figure 2, to operate the warp bar; the
portion marked A operates the bar when the carriages are in the back combs of
the machine; the portion marked B operates the bar when the carriages are in
the front combs. The several separate movements of the different bars and jacks
are as follows:-
When the carriages are in the back combs the jack bar rises one gate; the spool
bar rises one or more gates, the warp bar rises two gates, the unselected jacks then
enter the threads, the spool bar rises one or more gates, and the warp bar falls one
gate, the carriages then enter the threads, and when in the centre the warp bar
rises one gate; the part marked C, on Figure 2, taking the pressure off the jacks,
the carriages having passed into the front combs, and the jacks having left the

page_text: threads the jack bar falls one gate, the spool bar falls one or more gates, the warp
bar falls three gates, the jacks then enter the threads, and the spool bar falls one or
more gates, the warp bar rises one gate, and the carriages pass into the back combs,
the jacks leave the threads, and the motions are repeated.
By the above arrangement, the warp bar being in the front, and operated on by
the cam as described.
I am enabled to stop the spool threads from traversing when making the ground
work with the warp, thus making a perfectly smooth pillar and ground work.
When making what are known as imitation Swiss goods, I employ three guide
bars, in addition to any other I may require, to make scallops or purls, the three
guide bars being each supplied with a full set of guides and threads according to
the gauge of the machine, each guide being supplied with a thread from a spool or
warp beam, with fine or coarse threads in each of two spool bars, the warp bar being
placed either in the front of or between the two spool bars; both spool bars may be
supplied with threads of the same color or of different colors. The drafting and
reading of the pattern is the same as described for making combination fabrics.
The several separato movements of the guide bars and jacks are as follows:- The
carriages being in the back the jack bar rises one gate, the back guide bar rises one
or more gates, the second spool bar rises two gates, being operated by the cam
wheel shewn at Figure 3, the warp bar rises one gate, the jacks then enter the
threads, and the back spool bar rises one or more gates, the second spool bar falling
one gate, the carriages then enter the threads and pass into the front combs; the
jacks then leave the threads, and the jack bar falls one gate, the back spool "bar
falling one or more gates, the second spool bar falls one gate, and the warp bar
falls one gate, the jacks now enter the threads, and the back spool bar falls one or
more gates; the carriages then enter the threads and pass into the rack combs, the
jacks leave the threads and the movements are repeated.
By the above arrangement I am enabled to cause the fine threads to form the
pillaring when not required to make the net or shading. By such means I make
the fabric at a less cost without destroying any of the effects of the pattern. With
the arrangement last described, but substituting the warp bar cam wheel, as shewn
at Figure 2, or cut to the shape indicated by the dotted line, instead of the cam
wheel shewn at Figure 3, I ain enabled to produce double tie, Swiss, or colored
fabrics with the pattern shewn on both sides.
Having thus described my said Invention, and the manner of performing the
same, I declare that I claim,-
First. For the cam wheels, shewn severally at Figures 2 and 3.
Secondly. The employment of the several arrangements of apparatus for
producing coinbination, imitation Swiss, and embroidered colored fabrics,
substantially as hereinbefore described and illustrated by the accompanying
Drawings.
In witness whereof, F, the said John Newton, have hereunto set my hand
and seal, this Tenth day of August, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and eighty one
Witness,
H. W. GOUGH, C.E.,
Nottingham.
JOHN NEWTON. (L.S.)