IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES
Year: 1884

page_text: I, THOMAS LOW of Blairgowrie in the County of Perth, North Britain, Draper,
do hereby declare the nature of the said invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING
MACHINES" to be as follows:-
This Invention which relates to improvements in Sewing Machines has reference
to the production of elastic seaming stitching which more nearly resembles the
qualities which characterise hand sewn seaming work, that is to say, it is elastic in
the sense that it will stretch correspondingly or nearly so to that of hand stitching.
The invention consists in imparting to the feed bar or lever a compound
backwards and forwards movement so that after a stitch has been made forwards
the feed bar or lever is then moved backwards to a less extent than the length of
the aforesaid forward stitch.-In order to produce this movement of the feed bar
or lever there is substituted for a crank, a disc having two continuous grooves
which intersect at one point.In these grooves a roller or stud carried by the feed
lever is entered so that as the disc revolves the roller or stud alternately passes
from one groove to the other and this produces the alternate forward and retrograde
motion of the feed bar or lever.-This feed bar or lever is provided with a slide
holder, or clutch, or the mechanical equivalent thereof, which at the requisite tine
lifts the roller or stud off the feed lever out of the aforesaid intersecting grooves,
and passing it through a short open space causes it to catch upon a second cam or
wiper, whereby the ordinary stitch is produced.-In order to allow of the aforesaid
different movements being produced, a space is left in the "feed dog," at the under
side thereof which is of such an extent as to allow of the feed bar or lever to move
so as not to operate the "feed dog" during a part of its motion and for which time
the feed bar or lever is free from being operated upon by the aforesaid cams, or
cam and intersecting grooves-In order to produce a long and short stitch the
notch in the "feed dog" is widened to the extent required to allow of the aforesaid
free movement of the feed bar or lever sufficient for the long stitch, the "feed dog'
being pressed back to make the long stitch by a projection on the feed bar or lever,
the short stitch being produced by a partial throwing back of the feed bar or lever
whilst a spring may be used when necessary for tempering the said motions thereof.
Dated this twenty third day of May 1884
J. H. JOHNSON, DAY & JOHNSON,
Petitioner's Agents,
115, St. Vincent Street, Glasgow.

page_text: I, THOMAS LOW, of Blairgowrie, in the County of Perth, North Britain, Draper,
do hereby declare the nature of my said invention for IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING
MACHINES and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-—
My Invention, which relates to improvements in Sewing Machines, has reference
to the production of elastic seaming which more nearly resembles the qualities
which characterise hand sewn seaming work that is to say, it is elastic in the sense
that it will stretch correspondingly, or nearly so, to that of hand stitching.
My Invention consists in imparting to the feed bar or lever a compound
backwards and forwards movement so that after a stitch has been made forwards
the feed bar or lever is then moved backwards to a less extent than the length of
the aforesaid forward stitch.-In order to produce this movement of the feed bar
or lever, there is substituted for a crank, a disc having two continuous grooves
which intersect at one point-In these grooves a stud carried by the feed lever is
entered so that as the disc revolves the stud alternately passes from one groove to
the other and this produces the alternate forward and retrograde motion of the feed
bar or lever. This feed bar or lever is provided with a slide holder or clutch, or
the mechanical equivalent thereof, which at the requisite time lifts the stud of the
feed lever out of the aforesaid intersecting grooves, and the feed bar or lever catches
upon a second cam or wiper, whereby the ordinary stitch is produced.-In order to
allow of the aforesaid different movements being produced, a space is left in the
feed dog," at the underside thereof which is of such an extent as to allow of the
feed bar or lever to move so as not to operate the "feed dog" during a part of its
motion, In order to produce a long and short stitch, the notch in the "feed.dog"
is widened to the extent required to allow of the aforesaid free movement of the
feed bar or lever sufficient for the long stitch, the "feed dog" being pressed back
to make the long stitch by a projection on the feed bar or lever, the short stitch
being produced by a partial throwing back of the feed bar or lever whilst a spring
may be used when necessary for tempering the said motions thereof.
"
In order that my said Invention may be most fully understood, and readily
carried into effect, I will proceed to describe the Drawings hereunto annexed.
Figure 1, is a view partly in side elevation and partly in vertical section of a
sewing Machine constructed according to and constituting my present Invention.
Figure 2. is a plan of the underside and Figures 3 to 22 (inclusive) are views of
detached portions of the same all hereinafter more particularly described.
In carrying my present Invention into practice I substitute for the crank
ordinarily employed for operating the shuttle a, through the connecting link b,
a disc c, having at its upper side the cam grooves d, for effecting the compound
movements necessary for the working of elastic seaming by my present improve-
ments This cam disc c, is represented in plan of underside at Figure 2, in plan of
upperside (detached from machine) at Figure 3, and in transverse section, (also
detached from machine) at Figure 4, The grooves d, as represented upon the
annexed drawings, intersect at the part e, where the stud hereinafter described,

page_text: when caused to travel in the said grooves d, passes alternately from the inner to
the outer and back from the outer to the inner of such grooves. The cam disc c,
is secured by the screw f, to the lower extremity of the vertical shaft g, and is
prevented from rotating thereon by means of the pin h, and screw i, (Figure 2.)
which enter recesses formed in the underside of the cam j-This cam j, which is
represented in side elevation at Figures 1, and 20, and in plan of underside (in
dotted lines) at Figure 2, and more particularly at Figure 19, is secured upon or
formed in part with the shaft g.-The cain k, represented in plan of underside at
Figure 19. and in side elevation at Figures 1, and 20, (the latter Figure being
a part side elevation and part vertical section of the sewing Machine) is that by
which, in conjunction with the cam j, the ordinary Machine stitch is made, it being
understood that the Machine represented upon the annexed drawings is one by
which the stitching may either be effected as heretofore, or the said stitching may
by my present Improvements, be rendered elastic, the former operation being
effected by the conjoined actions of the canis j, and k, and the latter operation
by the conjoined action of the cam j, and cam grooves d.-The relative positions
of the several cams and their directly operated parts under the two conditions Vizt
for working elastic seaming, and for working ordinary Machine stitching are
respectively shewn at Figures 1. and 20.-The feed bar or lever l, which I employ
for operating the "feed dog" is represented in plan of underside at Figure 2, plan
of upperside at Figure 7, and in side elevation at Figure 8.-This feed bar or
lever, is arranged with the longitudinal cheeks m, between which, when the
Machine is employed in working the ordinary stitch, the cam k, operates and causes
the said bar or lever 1, to move radially about its sliding or adjustable axis or
fulcrum n, (Figure 2,) the upper part of the cam j, at the same time operating
between the transverse cheeks o, and thereby imparting the sliding or longitudinal
motion to the feed bar or lever l.-For supporting the said Feed bar or lever l, in
the position in which it is conjointly operated upon by the cams j, and k, the
spring lever p, which is represented more particularly in side elevation and in plan
respectively at Figures 5, and 6, is pivoted at q, in the pillar r, (Figure 2,) or to
any other rigid connection to the bed plate 8, adjacent thereto. The free end t, of
this spring lever is passed between the under surface of the feed bar or lever l, and
the spring u, which is secured by the screws v, to such bar or lever 1, The opposite
end w, of this spring lever may be raised or lowered and consequently the springy
end thereof respectively lowered or raised, by means of the cam lever, situated at
the top side of the Machine bed plate 8, and which is connected to the said lever p,
by the pin b, and screwed collar y, the lower end of the said pin b³, passing
through the opening z, formed therein. The spring a¹, which is secured by the
screw b', to the underside of the bed plate 8, (see Figure 2.) exerts its pressure in a
manner tending to raise the the springy end t, of the lever p, and thereby force the
longitudinal and transverse cheeks m, and o, into and support them in the position
in which they are operated upon conjointly and respectively by the cams k, and j,
the stud c, which is hereinafter more particularly described and which operates in
the grooves d, of the cam disc c, is at that time clear of such grooves. This stud c',
as represented more particularly in front and side elevations and in plan respectively
at Figures 9, 10, and 11, of the annexed drawings, is formed with a curved head,
and is supported by the screw d¹, in the boss e¹, which is formed upon the feed bar
or lever, and in which the said stud c¹, is capable of slight radial motion by reason
of the screw d¹, engaging with the tangential recess f¹, formed therein. When the
springy end t, of the lever p, is depressed the longitudinal cheeks are drawn
downwards by its influence and the stud c¹, if not then immediately over one of
the grooves d, is drawn down upon the upper surface of the cam disc c, until such
time as a portion of the grooves d, thereof is immediately below the said stud c²,
which thereupon is drawn into the said grooves, the functions of the cam k, ceasing
5 simultaneously with the operation of those of the grooves d, and vice versa.
order to allow of the herein before described different movements being produced, a
space is left at the underside of the "feed dog" of such an extent as to enable the
In

page_text: "
feed bar or lever 1, during a part of its motion, to operate without moving the said
"feed dog." The form of "feed dog" used in connection with my present improve-
ments is represented more particularly on the annexed drawings in side elevation
at Figure 12, and in plans of the upper and lower sides respectively at Figures 13,
and 14. The space hereinlast referred to is terminated by the opposing faces of the
projections g¹ and h', respectively, against which the feed bar or lever 1, causes the
said "feed dog" i, to operate longitudinally. In order to produce a long and short
stitch for the working of elastic seaming, the notch in the feed dog" i¹, is
widened as shewn at Figures 12, and 14, it being understood that the corresponding
notch of ordinary sewing Machines is of a length which admits of practically no
play" to the feed bar or lever operating therein.-For reducing the length of the
backward stitch, I employ the arm j¹, secured to the "feed dog" i¹, which is
arranged in such position as to abut against the pink, sliding loosely and supported
in the bed plate 8, (see Figures 1, and 2,) The position of the inner extremity of the
pin k¹, relatively with that of the arm j, may be adjusted by means of the sliding bar l',
the oblique or rounded face of which allows the said pink, to be pressed farther out
or forces the said pin inwards towards the arm -The bar ", which is represented
more particularly in plan and back elevation respectively at Figures 15 and 16, is
supported at the side of the bed plate 8, by the screw ml, and spring n¹, (Figures 17,
and 18,) the former of which, passing through the slot o¹, admits of a longitudinal
sliding movement being imparted to the said bar .-The pin p¹, secured into tl.c
said bar, passes upwards through a slot ql, represented in dotted lines at Figures 1,
and 2, and by this pin p¹, the position of the bar 1, and consequently that of the
pink, is regulated from the upper surface of the bed plate s.- -The end of the feed
bar or lever l, adjacent to the "feed dog", is supported by the plate r¹, (Figure 2,)
which is screwed to the bed plate 8, and the vertical motion imparted to the "feed
dog" in feeding the work forward is imparted through the cam j, by the block s¹,
the curved back of which (see Figure 8,) is drawn under the said "feed dog."-The
block s¹, is adjustable upon the feed bar or lever 1, the screw t¹, securing it thereto,
being passed through the slot u'.
21
The projection, shewn more particularly in plan of underside and in end
elevation respectively at Figures 21. and 22, is that by which the back stroke of
the feed dog" is effected. This projection is capable of sliding longitudinally
upon the feed bar or lever 1, the said projection being secured thereon by the
screw w, which passes through the slot -The pin yl, formed in part with the
projection v¹, is provided with the spring z¹, which bears against the bearing
block a², secured rigidly upon the said feed bar or lever 1, and by these means,
the projection v¹, is maintained normally in the position represented at Figure 2, of
the annexed drawings. When the "feed dog" has been arranged for making short
stitches in the manner hereinbefore described the projection v1, by its longitudinal
elasticity absorbs the portion of the stroke which is otherwise taken up by the
increased travel of the "feed dog."
The means hereinbefore described for affecting the length of the stitch, it is to be
understood varies only the proportion between the lengths of the forward and
backward stitches, but where the stitches are to be increased or decreased pro-
portionally this is effected as heretofore by adjusting the position of the fulcurm 2.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
Invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is
First. The combination of Parts constituting the improvements in Sewing
Machines, whereby the said Machines may produce either elastic seaming or
ordinary machine stitching all operating substantially in the manner herein before
set forth with reference to the annexed drawings.
Second. The improvements in Sewing Machines wherein the feed dog", is
moved alternately backwards and forwards for the purpose of producing elastic
seaming stitching all operating substantially in the manner herein before set forth
with reference to the annexed drawings.

page_text: Third. The improvement in Sewing Machines consisting of the cam grooves d,
stud c', having a curved head and the projection v', and their connected parts all
operating substantially as and for the purposes herein before set forth with reference
to the annexed drawings or the Mechanical equivalents of all or any of such parts.
Dated this twenty fifth day of February 1885
J. H. JOHNSON, DAY & JOHNSON,
Applicant's Agents.