IMPROVEMENTS IN GARMENTS
Year: 1880

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Herbert John Haddan, of the Firm of Herbert and
Company, Solicitors of Patents, of 67, Strand, in the City of Westminster,
Civil Engineer, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN GARMENTS." A
communication from abroad by Albert Newman Horner, of Baltimore, State
of Maryland, United States of America.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Herbert John Haddan at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 15th July 1880.
HERBERT JOHN HADDAN, of the Firm of Herbert and Company, Solicitors of
Patents, of 67, Strand, in the City of Westminster, Civil Engineer. "IMPROVEMENTS
IN GARMENTS." A communication from abroad by Albert Newman Horner, of
Baltimore, State of Maryland, United States of America.
The Invention consists in a garment formed with sleeves terminating above the
elbow, and provided with means for attaching a lower sleeve; also in the combi-
nation with a garment made with short sleeves, or other cylindrical parts of such
garment, a detachable sleeve or cylindrical portion having a cuff or flounce
permanently attached thereto, with device for connecting the two parts, the
attachment being preferably effected by a row of buttons on the fixed sleeve, and
two rows of button holes on the movable sleeve, or vice versa. Also in providing
the sleeve with a cut, with a button hole in the lower edge, and with one or more
buttons at the top, in line with the hole for holding up the sleeve. Also in the
combination in a sleeve of a. button arranged at some convenient point on the
sleeve, and of a button hole or holes arranged in line below said button for shortening
the sleeve. Also in applying near the upper end of the detachable sleeve a button
stud, on which a piece of tape is buttoned, extending on the inner side of the sleeve,
and having any desired number of boles at different distances from the button stud,
said tape passing through a button hole near the cuff, and being brought back and
attached with with one hole to the said button stud for shortening the sleeve.

page_text: •
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said Herbert John Haddan in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 15th
January 1881.
HERBERT JOHN HADDAN, of the Firm of Herbert and Company, Solicitors of
Patents, of 67, Strand, in the City of Westminster, Civil Engineer. "IMPROVEMENTS
IN GARMENTS." A communication from abroad by Albert Newman Horner, of
Baltimore, State of Maryland, United States of America.
This Invention relates to shirts, (of the class known as dress, outside, or
overshirts), and is also applicable to all garments having sleeves, regardless of what
material they are constructed; and has for its object, first, to render it convenient
to replace the cuff or the cuff*and lower part of the sleeve when soiled by use
before the other exposed parts are similarly soiled; and, second, to provide means
by which the cuffs may be, adjusted upon the arm so as to expose them more or
less; and in connection with these objects it is the design of this Invention to
simplify and cheapen the manufacture of such garments and render them more
convenient, in use. This Invention is also applicable to almost all parts of garments
having a cylindrical formation in use, as most of the modifications about to be
described would be found very suitable to the skirts of ladies' dresses, especially.
walking dresses and flounces, the bottom edges of which often become soiled and
absolutely filthy in dirty streets while the remainder of the garment is perfectly
clean. This Invention consists in certain details of construction, hereinafter fully
set forth and specifically claimed. In the Drawings hereunto annexed similar
letters of reference indicate like parts, and Figure 1 represents this Invention
applied to a shirt with the sleeve detached; Figure 2 represents the same with the
sleeve in place; Figure 3 represents the cuff turned back out of the way, and
attached to one of the buttons which connect the parts of the sleeves; Figures 4, 5,
6, and 7 represent an improved method of shortening the sleeve to draw up the
cuff. I have not considered it necessary to show in what manner this Invention
may be applied to other parts of other garments, such as ladies' skirts, &c., as by
showing how it is employed in the sleeve of a shirt the manufacturer of other
garments will at once understand from the above mentioned Drawings and the
following description how to apply it to all those garments_and_parts_of_garments
which it is in any way applicable. Heretofore, as is well known, the cuffs of shirts
have been made detachable, so that they might be removed to preserve them from
soiling, and to be replaced by others when they have become soiled. It has also
been suggested that an extension or short portion, adapted to receive a cuff
buttoned thereto, might be made, and attached to the lower end of the sleeve of a
shirt made of different material. This Invention is mainly designed, as hereinbefore
stated, for ordinary outer shirts; and in carrying out this idea I make the sleeve
terminate above the elbow, and provide each at the 'end with a row of buttons
arranged around the periphery of the sleeve. The lower part of the sleeve I make
preferable of the same material, with a cuff permanently attached thereto, and
one or more rows of button holes arranged around the upper end, in such position
that either row may be connected with the row of buttons upon that part of the
sleeve which is fixed to the shirt. Obviously the detachable sleeve may be adjusted
in length to suit the convenience of the wearer by buttoning either upon the upper
or lower row of holes. It is also obvious that the position of the buttons and the
holes may be reversed, the buttons being placed upon the detachable portion, and
the holes upon that portion which is attached to the shirt; also that only one row
of holes may be used with one or more rows of buttons provided with substantially
the same effect. It is to be particularly noted that this construction dispenses with
the necessity of having the cuff detachable from the sleeve, and renders it much

page_text: more convenient to manipulate the stiffened cuff (ordinarily of four thicknesses of
material), and connecting it with buttons, as must be done with the present mode
of making shirts and cuffs. In Figures 1 and 2 of the Drawings the part of the
sleeve attached to the shirt is represented at A, the detachable portion at B, the
buttons at C, and the rows of holes at E and F. It will be observed that the attached
portion of the sleeve terminates above the elbow. The advantage of this is that it
brings the buttons into such position upon the arm that they are not likely to
incommode the wearer when writing or otherwise occupied with the arm resting
upon a table, as they do when located between the elbow and the hand. The sleeve
may, if preferred, be made entire, and be attached by buttons at the shoulder, but
not so conveniently for attaching and detaching. This modification is shown in
Figure 5; the buttons are represented at G, G. By looking at Figures 1 and 2 it
will be seen that if the sleeve B is attached to the sleeve A. by the second or lower
row of button holes F it will be shortened, and the same effect would be produced
if two rows of buttons were provided on the sleeve A. I have also contemplated
providing the upper part of the sleeve with a plait or fold circumferentially
arranged above the rows of buttons, so as to cover them entirely and hide the line
of junction between the two parts. Although the principal object of this Invention
is to make the sleeve B removable, in order that they may be replaced by the same
kind of sleeves when the cuffs became soiled, yet it is apparent that in some
occupations it may be desirable for the wearer to have a pair of sleeves of calico or
some other material, which may be buttoned on in place of the ones above
mentioned while the wearer is at work, and be replaced by the others when his
work is completed, and I contemplate putting up for some purposes with each shirt,
besides duplicate pairs of muslin sleeves with their cuffs permanently attached,
another pair of calico (or other desired material) suitable to be used while the
wearer is at work. An inspection of Figure 2 will show that the cuff may be held
up from the wrist by folding the sleeve just below the button holes E, so that they
agree with the holes F, when the buttons C may be passed through the two
simultaneously, care being taken in locating the buttons and holes upon the two
parts of the sleeve to enable this to be done, thus a fold is formed transversely in
the sleeve B between the two rows of holes E and F, whereby the sleeve will be
shortened and the cuff 'securely held away from the hand. Another method which
can be used with this Invention is shown in Figure 3, the cuff H being turned
back and buttoned at one of the holes over one of the buttons on the upper part of
the sleeve. This may be convenient when it is desired to hold the cuff entirely out
of the way. The method of suspending the cuff away from the wrist, above
described, whether by buttoning the cuff, as in Figure 3, or by two rows of button
holes, as in Figure 2, may be used in connection with shirts not having this
Invention, the button being specially provided for that purpose. In Figures 4, 5,
and 6, a device for holding up the sleeve is represented at L; this consists of a
transverse cut with a button hole in the lower edge, and with one or more buttons
in line with the hole, and above on the other side of the cuff. These buttons may
be in part those belonging to the first part of this Invention, or, if used on ordinary
shirts, may be especially provided for the purpose. Manifestly, instead of buttons,
hooks and eyes or ordinary studs may be used. In Figure 7, a button or stud A¹
is shown, on which a piece of tape or muslin C³ is buttoned, extending down on the
inner side of the sleeve. It has any desired number of holes at different distances
from A. In the sleeve a button-hole B' is formed near the cuff; through this the
end of the tape C2 is passed, and brought back to A', over which any desired hole
in C² may be buttoned, thereby shortening the sleeves to the length desired.
What I claim and wish to secure by Letters Patent is as follows,―
First. A garment formed with sleeve terminating above the elbow, and provided
with means for attachment of a lower sleeve, as set forth.
Second. In combination with a garment made with short sleeves, or other
cylindrical parts of such garment, a detachable sleeve or cylindrical portion having

page_text: a cuff or flounce, etc., etc., permanently attached thereto with device for connecting
the two parts, as set forth.
Third. In combination with a short sleeve, etc., or cylindrical part permanently
attached, provided with a row of buttons C at its lower end, and with a detachable
sleeve, &c., having two rows of button holes, one E and the other F, as set forth.
Fourth. In combination with a sleeve, etc., the cut L and hole in the lower part,
and button or buttons above, as set fourth.
Fifth. The combination in a sleeve, &c., of a button arranged at some convenient
point on the sleeve, and of a button hole or holes arranged in line below said
button, whereby the sleeve, etc., may be shortened and the cuff held up, as set
forth.
•
Sixth. The combination of the sleeve, etc., with button A', tape C³, button
hole B, substantially as described.
Seventh. The sleeve B in combination with the sleeve A and buttons G,
substantially as described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Herbert John Haddan, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Twelfth day of January, A.D. 1881.
H. J. HADDAN. (L.S.)