IMPROVEMENTS IN EMBROIDERING MACHINES
Year: 1883

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Edward Gedge, of N° 11 Wellington Street,
Strand, London, in the County of Middlesex, Patent Agent, for an Invention
⚫of "IMPROVEMENTS IN EMBROIDERING MACHINES" a Communication to him
from abroad by Emile Cornely, of Paris, France,
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Edward Gedge at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 24th May 1883.
26
WILLIAM EDWARD GEDGE, of N° 11 Wellington Street, Strand, London, in
the County of Middlesex, Patent Agent, IMPROVEMENTS IN EMBROIDERING
MACHINES A Communication to me from abroad by, Emile Cornely, of Paris,
France,
2
1
The object of the present invention is to constitute an Embroidering machine
which is capable of producing an overseaming stitch on both sides of the material
by winding a thread around the seams of two or more chain stitches which are
produced from a single thread by means of several needle hooks.
On the accompanying Drawings:-
Figure 1 represents an elevation of the entire machine.
Figures 2 to 15 represent detached views hereafter to be referred to.
:
The rotating thread Carrier b, winds its thread around the needles once at every
stitch, but to do the work with regularity it is necessary that during its continuous
rotary motion it should still be liable to be turned or governed by means of the
crank handle S, which serves to govern the feed of the machine, as otherwise the
thread would be wound around the needles, either during an entire revolution,
or during a part of it, or even during more than an entire revolution, according
to the direction of the feed. This result is obtained by the mechanism hereafter
described.
D, represents the main shaft of the machine, C and E represent two levers
which are pivoted at c, e to the frame of the machine. They are actuated by a
double grooved cam F (secured to shaft D) into which extend the two friction
rollers i and k. The extremities of the levers are provided with friction rollers t,

page_text: and m which reach into the collars n, o of the concentrical cylinders or sleeves
I, M. The inner sleeve M is adjusted upon a shaft O, and can slide thereon
freely. The exterior sleeve I is adjusted upon the inner sleeve M and can slide
freely on the latter.
N, represents a frame shewn in a section at Fig: 6 and in a side view at Fig: 4.
Its cylindrical part is fitted at P into the frame of the machine and can turn
therein freely, and the end of the shaft O is secured to its outer part by means
of a pin 8. A shaft Q can turn freely within the frame N, and the bevel wheel v
is secured to and turns with said shaft Q. Another shaft w is fitted transversely
within the frame N and has a bevel wheel 3 secured to it. To the latter is also
secured a crank 4 whose crank pin 5 is connected with stud 6 of the outer sleeve I
by means of a pitman 7. Another crank 8 is secured to the other end of shaft w
at right angles to crank 4, and is connected to stud 9 of the inner sleeve M by
means of a pitman 10. The stud 9 which is secured to the inner sleeve M passes
in its movement through the open mortise 11 of the sleeve I.
When shaft D turns it operates levers C E which impart a rectilinear
reciprocating motion to the cylinders M I, which motion is transmitted by
pitmen 7 and 10 to the cranks 4 and 8, imparting to them and to their shaft w,
and consequently to the pinions 3, v, R, T, K, L and B and thread Carrier b a
rotary motion.
The shaft O, can be turned by the crank handle S through the pinions r, u,
x, y, and U V. A square nut q, figs 4 and 5, is secured to shaft O, and fits within
the sleeve M, so that when the shaft O is turned by the crank S, the two sleeves
M and I and the studs and pitmen connected with them, as well as the frame N
to which said shaft is connected by pin 8, are turned about the axis of shaft O
as a center, and pinion 3 being in gear with pinion vit turns the latter and
consequently the pinions R, T, K, L, B and the thread carrier b. Thus the thread
Carrier b and its spool G, both secured to the wheel B, receive a compound
motion-first, a continuous rotary motion from shaft D by which shaft w is
turned on its geometrical axis; second, a variable motion imparted to it from
crank handle S, by which shaft w is turned upon the geometrical axis of shaft O,
and which operates the thread Carrier b in conjunction with the universal feed.
Both these motions are independent one of the other and can take place at the
same time without hindrance to one or the other. Thus the thread Carrier 6 while
revolving around the needle or needles can be directed in conjunction with the
feed and will produce a regular seam in all directions of the feed.
Pinion 12 is secured to the cylindrical part of frame N and transmits its motion
to pinion 13, to shaft W and to pinions Y and Z, which latter is secured to the
central tube of the machine and which thus directs the feed.
.
It is evident that this universal motion of the thread Carrier b can be as
well applied when the machine is working with one or when it is working with
several needles.
The seam produced by this machine is obtained by means of several, needle
hooks in combination with the mechanism described in the Specification to Letters
Patent No 2483 of May 25th 1882, which description need not be repeated here.
As the several rows of chain stitches. produced by this machine are obtained from
a single thread it follows necessarily that a system of cross threads appears on the
under side of the material, in the same way on the upper side of the material the
cross threads only which are wound round the chain stitch will appear and will
cover entirely the chain stitches, and thus an embroidering will be obtained which
has all the appearance and the solidity of the overseaming work which can be
obtained by the universal feed of the machine.
}
It remains to describe the various devices which can be applied as spool holders
for this machine.
t
Figures 2 and 3 represent side views of a spool bolder which turns outside of
the central tube of the machine.
The spool G is set upon a slight spring a which rests upon the bed plate z
ana

page_text: a frame 14 holds it downward to make the tension thereon by the action of
spring 15, which can be moderated by means of the screw nut 16. The spool
pin 17 may be secured either to the bed plate z or to the frame 14-To withdraw
the spool G the frame 14 is raised and turned aside, when the spool can be
withdrawn either from below, as on fig: 2, or from above, as on fig: 3.
Another device is the application of a spool G adjusted excentrically upon the.
tube A of the machine within which works the nipple tube H.
A
On the hub of wheel B are turned two circular excentrics' 18 and 19 upon
which the spool G is fitted; (Figs 7 and 8) upon the rotation of the wheel B
a corresponding rotation is imparted to the spool G. A collar 20 is secured to
the lower, end of the hub of wheel B to which the thread guide 21, tension 22,
thread guide 23 and thread Carrier b are secured; which are also représented in.
a plan Fig: 9. To wind the thread on this spool after it shall have been exhausted
it is provided with a circular groove 25, around which a belt 26 can be laid which
is either passed around the big fly wheel 27 of the machine stand, passing over the
guide rollers 28 or, by passing it over the pullies 29 can be driven by the small
By wheel 30; thus the winding of the thread can be effected rapidly as the spool'
can turn freely upon the circular excentrics 18 and 19 although it is turned by
them in a circle around the needle.
In Figure 10 is represented the wheel Bits hub and excentrics 18 and 19
between which a spring 24 is secured which presses slightly against the inner
circumference of the spool G for the purpose of regulating the tension of the
thread; its action can be regulated by the screw 31 which presses against the end
of said'spring.
In Figs 11, 12, 13, 14 and 15 is represented another spool system adjusted
equally upon the circular excentrics 18 and 19 of the wheel hub B; in this case
the several parts are constructed so that the spool G can easily be taken out of the
machine for winding the thread upon it. The great obstacle in removing the spool
was the nipple tube H, to overcome this obstacle it is made in two parts, H and H',
which can be slid one within the other so that the lower part can be raised high
enough to permit the spool G to pass under it. The inner nipple tube H is
provided with a projection 32 which can slide within the groove 33 but which
has a recess at its lower end into which it can be pushed when the machine is to
work, and where it is fixed by the pressure of the screw nut 34. To raise the
nipple tube H the screw nut 34 is loosened, the tube H is turned slightly so that
the projection 32 will pass into the groove 33, and then the tube H can be pushed
upward into the tube H¹.
The thread Carrier b, and tension 35, are secured to a slight frame A¹, which
is provided with a stud 36 which is fitted into the sleeve 37 of the collar 38
represented Figs 11 and 12; it is fixed therein by means of a pin 39. This frame A¹
has a fork shaped supporting plate 40 which passes over the lower part of the
wheel hub and which at the same time supports the spool G. Upon withdrawing
pin 39 the frame A' can be withdrawn, and after pushing upward the nipple tube H,
the spool G can be taken out with facility.
"

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed.
by the said William Edward Gedge in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
22nd November 1883.
WILLIAM EDWARD GEDGE, of N° 11 Wellington Street, Strand, London, in
the County of Middlesex, Patent Agent, " IMPROVEMENTS IN EMBROIDERING
MACHINES A Communication to me from abroad by Emile Cornely, of Paris,
France,
"
:
The object of the present Invention is to constitute an embroidering machine,
which is capable of producing cording work and an overseaming stitch on both
sides of the material by winding a thread around the seam, or seams, of one or of
two or more chain stitches which are produced from a single thread by one or
several needle hooks.
On the accompanying Sheet of Drawing:-
Figure 1 represents an elevation of the said machine, and
Figures 2 to 7, represent detached views hereafter to be referred to.
The rotating thread carrier b winds its thread around the needle or needles once
at every stitch, but to do the work with regularity, it is necessary that during its
continuous rotary motion it should still be liable to be turned or governed by
means of the crank handle S, which serves to govern the feed of the machine, as
otherwise the thread would be wound around the needle or needles either during
an entire revolution or during a part of it, or even during more than entire
revolution, according to the direction of the feed. This result is obtained by
means of the mechanism hereafter described. D represents the main shaft of the
machine; C and E represent two letters which are pivoted at c and e to the frame
of the machine. They are actuated by a double groove cam F which is secured
to. the shaft D, and into which extend the two friction rollers i and k. The
extremities of the levers are provided with studs and m, which extend into the
collars n, o, of the concentrical cylinders or sleeves I and M. The inner sleeve M
is adjusted upon the shaft O and can slide thereon freely; the exterior sleeve I is
adjusted upon the inner sleeve M and can slide freely on the latter.
N represents a frame shewn in section in fig: 2 and in a side view in fig: 3.
Its cylindrical part p is fitted at P into the frame of the machine and can turn
therein freely and the end of the shaft O is secured to the outer part of frame N
by means of the pin S. The shaft Q can turn freely within the frame N and the
bevel wheel v is secured to and turns with said shaft Q. Another shaft w is fitted
transversely within the frame N and has the bevel wheel 3 secured to it; to the
latter is also secured a crank 4 whose crank pin 5 is connected with stud 6 of the
outer sleeve I by means of a pitman 7-Another crank 8 is secured to the other
end of the shaft wat right angles to crank 4 and is connected to stud 9 of the
inner sleeve M by means of pitman 10. The stud 9 which is secured to the inner
sleeve M passes in its movement through the open mortise 11 of the sleeve I
When shaft D turns it operates levers C and E by the action of the cam grooves
of the cylinder cam F, which impart rectilinear reciprocating motions to the
cylinders M, I, which motion is transmitted by the pitmen 7 and 10 to the
cranks 4 and 8 which are turned and which turn shaft w, pinions 3 and v and
pinions R, T, K, L, B, and thread carrier 6 to which a continuous rotary motion is
thus imparted.
The shaft O, can be turned by means of the crank handle S, through pinions r, u;
x, y; UV; A square nut q, figs: 3 and 4, is secured to the shaft O, and is fitted
within the sleeve M so that when shaft O is turned by means of the crank

page_text: handle S the two sleeves M and I and the studs and pitmen connected with them
as well, as the frame N to which the shaft O is connected, by means of pin 8 are
turned around the axis of the shaft O as their center line, and pinion 3 being in
gear with pinion v, turns the latter on the same axis and consequently also
pinions R, T, K, L, B, and the thread Carrier b.
Thus the said thread carrier b and its spool G both secured to wheel B
receive a compound motion; first a continuous rotary motion by the action of
shaft D, by which shaft w, is turned on its own geometrical axis; second a variable
motion imparted to it from crank handle S by which shaft w, is turned upon the
geometrical axis of shaft O and which turns the thread Carrier in conjunction with
the universal feed of the machine. Both these motions are independent one of the
other. Thus the thread carrier b while revolving around the needle or needles can
be directed in conjunction with the feed of the machine and will produce a regular
seam in all directions of the feed. Pinion 12 is secured to the cylindrical part p
of the frame N and transmits its motion to pinion 13, to shaft W and to the
pinions Y and Z which latter is secured to the central tube of the machine. It is
evident that this universal rotary motion of the thread carrier 6 can be as well
applied when the machine is working with a single needle only for cording work
as when it is working with several needles to produce an overseaming stitch.
Fig 5 represents a detached view of the spool holder. The spool G is set upon
a slight spring a which rests upon the bed plate Z, and a frame 14, bears upon
said spool by the action of spring 15 and thus serves to regulate the tension of its
thread by means of the screw nut 16, by screwing the latter upward, the tension
of the thread is loosened, by screwing it downward the tension is tightened. The
spool pin 17 is secured to the frame 14. To withdraw spool G, the frame 14 is
raised and turned aside, upon which the spool G can be withdrawn from below.
When this machine is employed to work with several needles then it works in
combination with the mechanism described in Letters Patent No 2483 of May 25th
1882; as represented in fig: 1, of the present drawings, a description of which
need not to be given here as it is fully contained in the specification' to the
said letters patent. In this case the several rows of chain stitches are obtained
from a single thread by means of several needles and it necessarily follows that a
system of cross threads must appear on the under side of the material, but as the
several rows of chain stitches which are on the upper side of the material are
covered crosswise by the thread which has been wound around them, those cross-
threads only are visible and thus the seam produced constitutes in appearance
and in firmness an overseaming work which can be employed for all purposes on
textile fabrics and which can be produced regularly in all directions by the use of
the crank handle S which governs the universal feed of the machine. The
overseaming work as described thus appears on both sides of the material.
When this machine is working with a single needle it can be employed for pro-
ducing cording work by the winding of a thread around the single chain stitch;
but it can also be employed for fastening a cord or braid upon the material without
causing the needle to stitch through it, which is chiefly very important for cording
work. In figs 6, and 7, I have shown the methods of producing the said work.
H represents the nipple tube of the embroidering machine and 19 represents its
nipple; 18 the needle rod; 20 the needle; b the revolving thread carrier; g its
thread; h the needle thread; f the material and A the cord which is to be fixed
to the material. The cord A is passed through the central tube of the embroidering
machine in a similar manner as is done in top braiding machines and passes
through a guide d, which may be secured to the nipple 19 or which may be
independent of it. The guide d is adjusted behind the needle 20. When the
braid or cord is laid on the material and when the machine is set in operation the
thread Carrier b by its rotary motion around the needle 20 lays its thread g
around the cord A and around each loop h which is drawn up by the hook 20,
The cord A is thus fastened upon the chain stitch as shown in fig: 6 without any
without any stitching of the needle through it which would injure its appearance,

page_text: besides 'this method permits to apply. very thin cording to the material which
could not be applied by stitching.
It is evident that any kind of sewing machine can be employed by this method
of fixing cording to the material. In, fig: 7 I have shown how it can be applied
to a machine which works with a needle instead of a hook and which produces a
chain stitch with the stitching on the upper side of the material and in which the
same letters of reference designate similar parts as those represented in fig: 6,
with the difference that no nipple is employed and that the cording guide dis
euspended on the needle bar or central tube 18. It is evident that any kind of
shuttle or lock stitch machine can be equally well employed to produce the same
work, also that the cording guide d can be connected with the crank handle S
(fig: 1) to be guided by the same when it is to be applied to the above universal
feed machine in a similar manner as is done on braiding machines, but with the
difference that in braiding machines the braiding guide must be adjusted in front
of the needle so that the braid can be passed under the needle which will stitch
through it, while in the present case the, cording guide must be adjusted behind
the needle which does not come in contact with it.
It is also evident that the thread which is wound around the card and around
the stitch of the machine, may be operated also by an oscillating thread carrier
instead of a continuously rotating thread carrier, in which case the thread would
be wound around the cord, and around the stitch of the machine alternately once
to the right and once to the left producing thus a zig-zag fastening upon the cord
Having now described and ascertained, the nature of the said invention
Communicated to me as aforesaid and in what manner the same is or may be
performed..
1
: .
it r
:
I Claim as secured to me by the hereinbefore in part recited Letters Patent :-
1. A continuously revolving thread Carrier which is capable of being governed
in its rotation by means, of the, crank handle of the machine which governs its
universal feed.
i
:
I
2nd. The mechanism consisting of cam F levers C; E, sleeves I, M, pitmen 7, 10;
cranks 4, 8; shaft w; pinions 3, v; and frame N, for directing a continuously
revolving thread Carrier, by means of the crank handle as above described.
3rd. The mechanism herein described for winding a thread around the seams of
several chain stitches produced of a single thread, when said mechanism is
capable of being governed in all directions by means of a crank handle for the
purpose of producing an overseaming work on both sides of the material.
4th. Securing a cord to the material by fixing the same to the seam of a sewing
or embroidering machine by means of a thread which is wound around the cord
and around the needle thread substantially as herein described and shown.
In witness whereof I the said William Edward Gedge have hereunto set my
hand and seal this Twenty Second day of November in the year of our Lord One
thousand Eight hundred and Eighty three
W CERCE
T