Improvements in the Manufacture of Cotton Cords.
Year: 1898

page_text: Date of Application, 8th Oct., 1898
Complete Specification Left, 8th July, 1899-Accepted, 7th Oct.,
1899
Improvements in the Manufacture of Cotton Cords.
We, JESSE COLLINS, and ABRAHAM COLLINS, of Cinder Hill Mills, Todmorden,
in the County of York, Fustian Manufacturers, do hereby declare the nature
of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of cotton cords,
or fustians, the object being the construction of such cloths in a different manner
to that hitherto employed and whereby a new effect is obtained.
"
In carrying out our invention we may construct several designs of cloth or
fabric but in general it should be said that we employ two different kinds of
warps, one for the face ends and the other for the back ends. The yarn forming
the warp for the face ends may be of one, two, three or four fold and may be
drawn in one, two or more ends in the heald. The yarn forming the warp for
the back ends is composed of two or more fold yarn but during twisting has
imparted to it an increased amount of twist. Such yarn is commonly known
in the trade as "reverse twist" or crape twist." The warp ends may be drawn
one, two or more in the heald as may be preferred for the particular make of
fabric in hand. We utilise the crape twist" warp yarn for all the back ends
of each cord or rib forming the fabric, whilst the yarn having the ordinary twist
is utilised as face ends or ends for binding in the pile to the ground of the fabric.
The use of the two classes of warp yarn of the character referred to in com-
bination with each other possesses no feature of novelty; but, on the other hand,
the manner in which the yarn is used, or in other words, the way in which such
yarn is arranged and manipulated in the loom, has features of novelty.
"
Our invention consists essentially in the use of warps for the back and face
ends composed of four ends of " crape twist" yarn alternately with two ends of
ordinary yarn so manipulated as to give a prominent effect to the ribs of the
pile. As one example in manipulating these, we may say that No. 1 crape end is
depressed three picks, lifted one, depressed five, lifted one and depressed two.
No. 2 end is lifted one, depressed two, lifted one, depressed two, lifted one, ana
depressed five. No. 3 end is lifted one depressed five, lifted one, depressed two,
lifted one and depressed two. No. 4 end is worked as No. 1. Ends No. 5 and 6
are the ordinary yarn. No. 5 is lifted and depressed alternate picks whilst No. 6
is depressed and lifted alternate picks. Ends 7 to 10 are crape twist. No. 7 is
lifted one and depressed five alternately. No. 8 is lifted one depressed two, lifted
one, depressed five, lifted one and depressed two. No. 9 is depressed 3 and then
lifted one and depressed two alternately. No. 10 is worked similar to No. 7.
No. 11 ordinary end is similar to No. 6 and No. 12 similar to No. 5. The method
of working the ends may be varied as desired.
1000
WILLIAM H. TAYLOR,
Swan Chambers, 69, Market Street, Manchester.
Agent for the Applicants.

page_text: Improvements in the Manufacture of Cotton Cords.
We, JESSE COLLINS, and ABRAHAM COLLINS, of Cinder Hill Mills, Todmorden,
in the County of York, Fustian Manufacturers, do hereby declare the nature
of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement:
-
This invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of cotton cords,
or fustians, the object being the construction of such cloths in a different manner
or manners to that hitherto employed and whereby a new effect or effects is
obtained when the weft forming the pile is afterwards cut and the cloth finished.
Our invention will be fully described with reference to the accompanying
diagrams, 1 to 9, which show the various ways in which the warps of the fabrics
are lifted.
In carrying out our invention we construct several designs of cloth or fabric;
but, in general, it should be said that we employ two different kinds of warps,
one forming the face or pile binding ends and the other forming the back ends.
The yarn forming the warp for the face ends may be of one, two, three, or four
fold and may be drawn in one, two or more ends in the heald. The yarn forming
the warp for the back ends is composed of one, two or more fold yarn but during
twisting has imparted to it an increased amount of twist. Such yarn is commonly
known in the trade as
66
reverse twist" or crape twist." The warp ends may
be drawn one, two or more in the heald as may be preferred for the particular
made of fabric in hand. We utilise the "
crape twist"
warp yarn for all the
back ends of each cord or rib forming the fabric, whilst the yarn having the
ordinary twist is utilised as face ends or ends for binding in the pile to the ground
of the fabric.
The use of the two classes of warp yarn of the character referred to in combina-
tion with each other possesses no feature of novelty; but, on the other hand, the
manner in which the yarn is used or in other words, the way in which such
yarn is manipulated or lifted by the healds in the loom, has features of novelty.
Our invention consists essentially in the use of warps for the back and face ends
composed of four ends a of "crape twist" yarn (thick lines) alternately with two
ends of ordinary yarn (thin lines), e being the weft, the warp ends being lifted
in the manner shown in the diagrams, which indicate part repeats.
As one example in manipulating these and referring to diagram 1 we may say
that No. 1 crape end is depressed three picks, lifted one, depressed five, lifted one
and depressed two. No. 2 end is lifted one, depressed two, lifted one, depressed
two, lifted one and depressed five. No. 3 end is lifted one, depressed five, lifted
one, depressed two, lifted one and depressed two. No. 4 end is worked as No. 1.
Ends No. 5 and 6 are the ordinary yarn lifted in a common way, the former
being lifted and depressed alternate picks whilst the latter is depressed and
lifted alternate picks. Ends 7 to 10 are crape twist. No. 7 is lifted one and
depressed five alternately. No. 8 is lifted one, depressed two, lifted one, depressed
five, lifted one and depressed two. No. 9 is depressed three and then lifted one
and depressed two alternately. No. 10 is worked similar to No. 7. No. 11 ordinary
end is similar to No. 6 and No. 12 similar to No. 5. The crosses indicate the lifting
of the ends in each diagram. The number and disposition of the warp and weft
ends is the same in each diagram though the warp ends are lifted differently in
each. By manipulating the warp ends in the various ways shown in the diagrams
we obtain a cloth showing, when the pile is cut, an increased amount of curl in
contradistinction to the plain appearance of ordinary fustians or cords. We do
not, however broadly claim this effect as new, nor do we claim the exclusive

page_text: use of ends of warp arranged in the particular number stated but only the
manner of lifting them or tieing in the yarn to form the pile.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that
what we claim is:-
In the manufacture of cotton cords or fustians the use of four ends of crape or
reverse twist yarn in combination with two ends of ordinary face warp yarn
lifted or manipulated in the manner shown in the accompanying diagrams.
Dated this 5th day of July 1899
WILLIAM H. TAYLOR,
Swan Chambers, 69, Market Street, Manchester.
Agent for the Applicants.
WILLIAM H. TAYLOR,
Swan Chambers, 69, Market Street, Manchester.
Agent for the Applicants.