Improvements in Boot and shoe siguru
Year: 1897

page_text: Improvements in Boot and shoe siguru
I, OWEN ROBINSON, of Champion Iron Works, Kettering, in the County of
Northampton, Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as
follows:
This invention relates to an improved machine for uniting the welts to the uppers
of boots and shoes and also for what is known as turn-shoe work.
In carrying out my invention I employ a curved barbed needle working through
a shield in conjunction with a thread guide in the form of a tube which is caused
to gyrate in order, at each stitch, to lay the thread in the barb of the needle.
Adjacent to the needle is arranged a channel guide and feed lever, and in front
of the channel guide is a welt guide; the holder for the needle and the guard,
the channel guide and the welt guide being carried upon one shaft.
For obtaining the required cycle of operations and for producing the necessary
intermittent movement of the various parts I provide the following arrangements,
that is to say, to oscillate the curved needle holder 1 provide upon the driving
shaft a kind of equilateral cam having its axis near one of the angles which cam
works in a square strap or bridle connected by a rod to a lever on the needle-holder
shaft. At each rotation of this cam the needle is caused to penetrate the work,
remain stationary whilst the thread is placed in the barb, moved back out of the
work and again remain stationary whilst the work is being fed forward for the
next stitch when the operations are repeated. To actuate the needle-guard I
employ a grooved cam operating upon a roller attached to a rod one end of which
is connected to an arm upon the boss of the guard whilst the other end is attached
to a lever free to oscillate upon the main shaft.
The gyratory movement of the thread tube is transmitted from a shaft (hereia-
after referred to as the counter-shaft) at right angles to the main shaft by means
of an eccentric and rod, the said rod having its outer end formed with an eye
through which the thread-tube is passed and being provided with an arm or exten-
sion which works through a guide to control the movement of the rod. Motion is
transmitted to the counter-shaft from a mutilated bevel wheel having such a
number of teeth and engaging with a pinion on the counter shaft of such size that
at each rotation of the main shaft upon which the mutilated bevel wheel is fixol
a complete rotation will be imparted to the counter shaft during say one fourth of
a revolution of the main-shaft the counter-shaft remaining stationary during the
remainder of the rotation of the main shaft.
To prevent the counter shaft from rotating too far either by reason of vibration
or momentum I form the bevel pinion upon the said counter shaft with what I
may call a stop plate against the two ends of which the ends of the toothed portion
of the mutilated bevel wheel act. apertures being formed in the disc of the mutilated
wheel for allowing the ends of the said stop-plate to enter at the proper time.
During the time that no movement is being imparted to the counter shaft the flat
surface of the stop-plate is against the plain surface of the mutilated bevel wheel.

page_text: The feeding arm or jaw is operated by a cam on the main shaft through the
medium of an arm capable of oscillating upon an axis transverse to the main shaft.
The root of the feed-arm may work against an inclined surface or the arm itself
may be jointed.
The welt-guide as hereinbefore stated is pivoted on the shaft carrying the
needle-holder and has an arm or plate carrying an eye which forms the guide
proper for the welt. This plate has an extension carrying a segment against
which an arm with grippers and carrying a roller engages the said roller at a
certain part of the revolution of the main shaft being acted upon by a cam to
cause the gripper to grip the segment and support the welt-guide whilst the needle
is penetrating the work.
Dated the 33rd day of November 1897
G. F. REDFERN & Co..
4, South Street, Finsbury, London, Agents for the Applicant.
I. OWEN ROBINSON, of Champion Iron Works, Kettering, in the County of
Northampton, Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in
what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascer-
tained in and by the following statement:-
This invention relates to an improved machine for uniting the welts to the uppers
of boots and shoes and also for what is known as turn-shoe work.
In carrying out my invention I employ a curved barbed needle working through
a shield in conjunction with a thread-guide in the form of a tube which is caused
to gyrate in order, at each stitch, to lay the thread in the barb of the needle.
Adjacent to the needle is arranged a channel guide and feed lever, and in front
of the channel guide is a welt guide the holders for the needle and the guard
and the welt guide being carried upon one shaft.
For obtaining the required cycle of operations and for producing the necessary
intermittent movement of the various parts I provide the following arrangements,
that is to say, to oscillate the curved needle-holder I provide upon the driving
shaft a kind of equilateral cam having its axis near one of the angles, which cam
works in a square strap or bridle connected by a rod to a lever on the needle-holder
shaft. At each rotation of this cam the needle is caused to penetrate the work, to
remain stationary whilst the thread is placed in the barb, to be moved back out of the
work and to again remain stationary whilst the work is being fed forward for the
next stitch when the operations are repeated. To actuate the needle-guard 1
employ a grooved cam operating upon a roller attached to a rod one end of which
is connected to an arm upon the boss of the guard whilst the other end is attached
to a lever free to oscillate upon the main shaft.
The gyratory movement of the thread-tube is transmitted from a shaft (herein-
after referred to as the counter-shaft) at right angles to the main shaft by means
of an eccentric and rod, the said rod having its outer end formed with an eye
through which the thread-tube is passed and being provided with an arm or exten-
sion which works through a guide to control the movement of the rod. Motion is
transmitted to the counter-shaft from a mutilated bevel wheel having such a
number of teeth and engaging with a pinion on the counter-shaft of such size that
at each rotation of the main shaft upon which the mutilated bevel wheel is fixed

page_text: a complete rotation will be imparted to the counter-shaft during say one fourth of
a revolution of the main shaft, the counter-shaft remaining stationary during the
remainder of the rotation of the main shaft.
To prevent the counter-shaft from rotating too far either by reason of vibration
or momentum I form the bevel pinion upon the said counter-shaft with what I
may call a stop-plate, against the two ends of which the ends of the toothed portion
of the mutilated bevel wheel act, apertures being formed in the disc of the mutilated
wheel for allowing the ends of the said stop-plate to enter at the proper time.
During the time that no movement is being imparted to the counter-shaft the flat
surface of the stop-plate is against the plain surface of the mutilated bevel wheel.
The feeding-arin or jaw is operated by a cam on the main shaft through the
medium of an arm capable of oscillating upon an axis transverse to the main shaft.
The root of the feed-arm may work against an inclined surface or the arm itself
may be jointed.
The welt-guide, as hereinbefore stated, is pivoted on the shaft carrying the
needle-holder and has an arm or plate carrying an eye which forms the guide
proper for the welt. This plate has an extension carrying a segment against
which an arm with grippers and carrying a roller engages, the said roller, at a
certain part of the revolution of the main shaft, being acted upon by a cam to
cause the gripper to grip the segment and support the welt-guide whilst the needle
is penetrating the work.
To enable the invention to be fully understood I will describe it by reference to
the accompanying drawings, in which:-
Figure is a front sectional elevation of a boot and shoe sewing machine made
according to the invention.
Figure 2 is an underside view of the machine.
Figure 3 is a section on the line 3-3 Figure 1.
Figure 4 is a sectional elevation showing the cams for operating the needle-
guard and the feed-arm.
Figure is a view similar to Figure 4 shewing the mechanisms for operating
the thread-tube and the welt-guide gripper.
Figure 6 is a section on the line 6 Figure 5; and,
Figure is a section on the line 7-7 Figure 3.
Figure 8 is a sectional view illustrating the feed arm and attachment.
a is the frame of the machine, 6 the driving shaft, which is preferably arranged
as shown in Figure 1 above the working parts, and c is the shaft or spindle upon
which are mounted the holder d for the needle e and the holder f for the guard f¹
and the welt-guide h.
(Figure 3) is the equilateral cam which is mounted upon the driving shaft the
said cam having its axis near one angle, as is clearly shewn. is the square strap or
bridle within which the cam works and 2 is the rod by means of which the said
strap or bridle is connected to a lever upon the needle holder boss or sleeve d',
which sleeve is, as above mentioned, mounted upon the spindle c. At each rotation
of this cam the needle is caused to penetrate the work, to remain stationary
whilst the thread is placed in the barb in the manner hereinafter described,
to be moved back out of the work and is then allowed to again remain stationary
whilst the work is being fed forward for the next stitch, when the operations are
repeated. (Figure 4) is the grooved cam for operating the needle-guard holder f,
the said cam operating a roller mounted upon a rod one end of which is
connected to an arm upon the boss of the guard-holder whilst the other end is
attached to a lever free to oscillate upon the main shaft b.
kis the thread-tube or looper the function of which is to guide or loop the thread
around the barb of the needle e after it has penetrated the work as hereinafter
described.
is an eccentric upon a counter-shaft mounted between centres ³, ⁄ª³at right
angles to the main shaft b. is the eccentric rod. the said rod having an eye
through which the thread-tube k passes and to which it is rigidly secured and

page_text: :
(Figures 5 and 6) is the extension with which the said eccentric rod is provided
and which works in a guide to control the movement of the rod . 7 is the
mutilated bevel wheel which is mounted on the driving shaft and is a pinion
mounted upon the counter-shaft with which the mutilated wheel gears, the said
wheel having such a number of teeth and the pinion being of such a size that at
each rotation of the main shaft b, upon which the mutilated bevel wheel 7 is fixed,
the counter-shaft will be turned through one revolution during say one fourth
of a revolution of the main shaft h, the said counter-shaft remaining stationary
during the remainder of the rotation of the main shaft it being kept stationary
by the stop plate upon the bevel pinion 7. 13, are the two holes or apertures
in the disc of the mutilated wheel for allowing the ends of the said stop plate 73
to enter at the proper time; these two holes are formed at each end of the
toothed segment forming the mutilated wheel thus allowing the projecting ends
of the stop to enter the holes ♬ respectively just as the mutilated wheel is enter-
ing into gear with the bevel pinion and leaving it; is a piu upon the stop 12,
the said pin being struck by the end of the flange upon the mutilated bevel wheel
just as the said wheel is entering into gear with the pinion so as to turn the said
stop and prevent any shock occurring between the toothed wheels. During the
time there is no movement of the counter-shaft, that is to say, when the mutilated
wheel is not in engagement with the bevel wheel the flat surface of the stop plate
rests against the disc or plain surface of the said mutilated bevel wheel 7. as shewn
in Figure 6. 16 is a tube secured to the frame within which the upper part of the
thread-guide rotates, the object of this tube being to heat the thread passing
through the guide, the said tube being of such a size that it allows the thread-guide
to participate in the movement of the eccentric.
1
(Figures 3 and 8) is the channel guide and feeding-arm or jaw, the said feed-
ing-arin being mounted upon the arm g held, between the pivots, g, at right
angles to the main shaft b and adapted to be oscillated therefrom by means of
the cam g³.
The welt-guide proper is, as above mentioned, formed as an eye upon an arm
or plate which is secured to the sleeve mounted upon the spindle or shaft c.
is the extension with which the said plate is provided, is the segment
carried by the said extension and, is a V-shaped arm which is mounted
upon a shaft ; one limb of the arm is serrated or toothed whilst the other /
is operated by a cam 48 mounted on the main driving shaft b. A spring he tends
to pull the gripper against the segment h, but the said gripper is normally held
out of engagement therewith by the cam 8 through the medium of the arm
which cam only releases the arin whilst the needle is penetrating the work.
The tension device for the thread m" is shown in Figures 3 and 7. It comprises
an arm m which is pivoted upon a pin m' in a slotted bracket m² and carries guide
rollers mand mt. A plate is also mounted upon the pin m' the said plate being
adapted to be pressed against the bracket m² by a spring m. An arm m is rigidly
secured to the arm m, the said arm m carrying at its free end a roller m which
is held against the periphery of the cam. This cam is provided with a flat g
upon its periphery so that at a point in the cycle of operations of the machine, that
is to say, as the needle is withdrawn from the material, the arm m can be pulled
inwards by the tension upon the thread so as to bring the two pulleys around which
the thread passes against the pivoted piece and thereby tighten the thread. The
thread mo, as indicated in Figure 3. passes between the tension plate m³ and the
bracket m² and thence around the rollers me, m' and through the thread-guide k.
is the work support of ordinary construction, the said support being capable
of adjustment by means of the two screws shewn.
The feeding arm or jaw is pivoted at p in a socket of the oscillating arm gl
so that it can be adjusted in position therein. To effect the adjustment the said
jaw is allowed play in the arm gland is secured in the desired position therein by
the wedge the inclined face of which bears against an inclined bed formed on
one side of the socket g" so that the wedge can be slid to a greater or less extent

page_text: a slot
into the said socket y" and be secured m position by the screw WHICH
has been made fast.
is a set screw for adjusting the jaw in position after the wedge pl
The operation of the machine is as follows:-The work being placed in position,
as indicated in Figure 5, with the channel guide and feed-arm g in position in the
channel in the sole A of the boot to be sewn and the welt B being passed through
the welt-guide, the rotation of the main shaft causes the needle e to be passed
through the sole, upper and welt in the usual manner and by the mechanism above
described; the needle rests in its inmost position and the thread guide is guided
around it so as to loop the thread over the barb of the needle and then comes to
rest whilst the needle is moved back drawing the thread with it: the feed arm g
then moves the work forward through a predetermined distance and the operation
begins anew. The needle guard follows the needle in the usual manner, and
the welt guide his supported against the pressure of the needle by the gripping
device h,, . All these various operations are effected by the means and in
the manner herein before described in detail.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is―
1. In a boot and shoe sewing machine the combination of a frame, of a main
shaft, of a secondary shaft carrying the needle holder, needle guard holder and welt
guide, of cams upon the driving shaft for operating the said devices and of a
counter-shaft carrying an eccentric having a lever for operating a tubular thread-
guide, substantially as bereinbefore described.
2. In a hoot and shoe sewing machine of the kind described in Claim 1 the
employment of a feed arm and channel guide adjustably pivoted in the socket of
an arm arranged transversely to the main shaft and adapted to be reciprocated from
a cam on the said main shaft the adjustment of the feed arm being effected by
means of a wedge and set-screw, substantially as herein before described.
3. In a boot and shoe sewing machine of the kind described in Claim 1, providing
the welt guide with an extension carrying a toothed segment adapted to be gripped
by a pivoted toothed arm which is operated from a cam upon the driving shaft,
substantially as hereinbefore described.
4. In a boot and shoe sewing machine of the kind having a reciprocating curved
needle and a gyratory tubular thread-guide the employment of a tubular heater
for the said guide and of an eccentric mounted upon a shaft driven from the main
shaft and carrying an arm to which the said thread guide is secured and an exten-
sion the end of which moves in a guide, substantially as, and for the purpose,
hereinbefore described.
5. In a boot and shoe sewing machine having a tubular thread-guide and means
for operating it of the kind described in the preceding claiming clause, controlling
the eccentric by means of a bevel pinion keyed upon the eccentric shaft and
arranged to gear with a mutilated bevel wheel mounted on the driving shaft, sub-
stantially as herein before described.
6. In a boot and shoe sewing machine of the kind described in the preceding
claiming clause, the employment of a stop for preventing the accidental movement
of the thread-guide, such stop comprising an arm fixed upon the eccentric shaft
and normally resting against the plain face of the mutilated bevel wheel which is
provided with a hole or recess at each end of the toothed portion thereof to allow
of the rotation of the said stop when the mutilated bevel wheel gears with the
bevel pinion, substantially as hereinbefore described.
7. In a boot and shoe sewing machine of the kind described in Claim 1, the
employment for operating the needle guard of a cam mounted upon the main or
driving shaft which cam actuates a roller upon an arm connected to an arm or
crank upon the said needle guard the said rod and roller being connected to an
arm loose upon the said main shaft, substantially as hereinbefore described.

page_text: 8. The combination and arrangement of parts forming the improved boot and
shop sewing machine herein before described and illustrated in the accompanying
drawings.
Dated the 23rd day of September 1898
G. F. REDFERN & Co.,
4, South Street, Finsbury, London, Agents for the Applicant.