Improvements in Narrow Fabrics intended to be used in Making the Welts or Bone Sheaths of Dress Bodices.
Year: 1892

page_text: Date of Application, 23rd June, 1892
Complete Specification Left, 21st Mar., 1893-Accepted, 22nd Apr., 1893
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Narrow Fabrics intended to be used in Making
the Welts or Bone Sheaths of Dress Bodices.
I, ISABEL FRANCES JULIA ST. JAMES DE VALLES of 92 Albert Mansions,
Victoria Street, in the City of Westminster, Gentlewoman, do hereby declare the
nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention has for its object improvements in narrow fabrics intended to be
used in making the welts or bone sheaths of dress bodices.
For this purpose I produce a narrow woven fabric in the nature of a tape such
as is known as galloon but so made as to have on each side a tight selvage or
edge and between the selvages or edges to be full or to be eased so as to lie in
creases or folds.
When this narrow fabric is attached to the garment by its two edges the creases
or folds afford just the proper space to receive the bone. Thus much trouble is
avoided as it is difficult to fix an ordinary flat tape or galloon to the garment in
such a way as to allow the proper fulness and to leave neither too much or too
little space for the bone beneath it.
The fabric is preferably woven with a silken face and a back of cotton.
Dated the 22nd Jan of Tunn 1000
CARPMAEL & Co.,
Agents for the Applicant.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Narrow Fabrics intended to be used in Making
the Welts or Bone Sheaths of Dress Bodices.
I, ISABEL FRANCES JULIA ST. JAMES DE VALLES, of 92 Albert Mansions,
Victoria Street in the City of Westminster, Gentlewoman, do hereby declare the
nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This invention has for its object improvements in narrow fabrics intended to be
used in making the welts or bone sheaths of dress bodices.
For this purpose I produce a narrow woven fabric in the nature of a tape such
as is known as galloon but so made as to have on each side a tight selvage or edge
and between the selvages or edges to be full or to be cased so as to lie in creases
or folds.
When this narrow fabric is attached to the garment by its two edges the creases
or folds afford just the proper space to receive the bone. Thus much trouble is
avoided as it is difficult to fix an ordinary flat tape or galloon to the garment in
such a way as to allow the proper fulness and to leave neither too much or too
little space for the bone beneath it.
The fabric is preferably woven with a silken face and a back of cotton.
In carrying my invention into effect I employ a loom such as is usually employed
in weaving narrow fabrics of this nature and the loom is mounted in the usual manner,
with this exception; that the warp threads for the edges or selvages of each narrow
fabric are not carried by the same warp beam as the remainder of the warp threads
which go to form the body of the fabric but the selvage warp threads are carried
by a separate beam or by spools and these selvage warp threads are heavily
weighted whilst the remainder of the warp threads are lightly weighted; from this
unequal weighting of the warp threads it results that the lightly weighted warp
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page_text: threads are worked up into the fabric more rapidly than the heavily weighted
selvage warps, with the result that the desired fulness of the fabric between the
selvages is obtained.
I could also produce several of these galloons at one operation by making a wide
material in which case the full or eased portions of the fabric would lie between
and alternate with the tight portions which would be on either side of the eased
portions. After this wide material was manufactured it would be cut into strips
and these strips would be eased in the same manner as the galloon above described,
but the edges would not be what are known as selvage edges, that is to say, the
edge warp threads would be liable to rove out.
These narrow fabrics or galloons can be woven of any material and the threads
of the warp and the shute may be bound together in any manner that may be
thought desirable.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
A narrow fabric suitable for making the welts or bone sheaths of dress bodices
made substantially as described with on each side a tight selvage or edge and
with the fabric between the selvages or edges more slackly woven so as to lie in
creases or folds.
ISABEL F. J. ST. JAMES DE VALLES.