Improvements in the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes.
Year: 1897

page_text: Date of Application, 27th Nov., 1897-Accepted, 29th Jan., 1898
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes.
I, MARIUS SÖRENSEN, trading under the name or style of S. Sörensen, of
39 Blaagaardsvej, Copenhagen, Denmark, Shoe Manufacturer, do hereby declare the
nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
This invention consists in a mode of manufacturing boots and shoes which
thereby become as light and elastic as the so called turned ones which are turned
inside out in the making, and which are at the same time as durable as the socalled
fair stitched ones, such as made by the Keats machine.
The boots and shoes made by this process have the same qualities as the welt
sewn ones, but are much lighter and cheaper to make than those.
The process will be understood by the following description in connection with
the accompanying drawings, in which Fig. 1 is a cross section through a finished
shoe, Fig. 2a section through the welt or edge piece, Fig. 3 a cross section through
the sole with the welt sewn on, and Fig. 4 a cross section through a shoe without
insole and sock lining.
From Fig. 1 it will be seen that a shoe made by this process is distinguished
from an ordinary welt sewn shoe by that the insole is loose and not sewn to the
welt or to the upper as in the case with a welt sewn shoe.
The manufacture is as follows:-
The welt which consists of a strong soft leather strip e, is split towards the out-
side as shewn in Fig. 2 to about half its width but so that the lower part ‹ becomes
thicker than the upper part e. The inner edge is sloped off and the welt is then
sewn on to the flesh side of the sole a, the latter having had a channel cut on the
grain side along the edge, which channel is smoothed over after the sewing.
The welt or edge piece may be used all round the sole or only on a part of same.
The flap e is now bent over as shewn in Fig. 3 and the sole is then fixed to the
last with the grain side against the last, whereupon the tacking can take place.
The upper is tacked on just as with making "turned" shoes that is with the wrong
side out. After the tacking the upper is sewn to the welt along the bent edge e,
whereupon the superfluous parts of the upper and of the flap e are cut away.
The shoe having been turned is again put on the last and smoothed as shewn
in Fig. 4. An inside sole with suitable sock lining is then cemented into the
inside of the shoe, which is now so far done that the heel can be put on and so
forth.
If the welt does not go all round the sole the part of the shoe not provided with
welt is treated as a turned" shoe.
"
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is:
Process for manufacture of boots and shoes characterized by that firstly to the
sole a wholly or partly round it is sewn a welt piece c, to which the upper b then,
turned" or with the wrong side outwards, is sewn on, as with turned shoes,
CD 031

page_text: whereupon the upper is turned back and the shoe provided with insole and soek
lining as usual.
Dated this Twenty-seventh day of November 1897.