Improvements in and relating to the Weaving of Figured Textile Goods.
Year: 1898

page_text: Date of Application, 3rd Mar., 1898
Complete Specification Left, 30th Dec., 1898-Accepted, 25th Feb., 1899
Improvements in and relating to the Weaving of Figured Textile
Goods.
I, ROBERT HEGGIE, Jr., of Kirkcaldy Power Loom Linen Works, Kirkcaldy, in the
County of Fife, Scotland, Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention
to be as follows:-
This invention relates to improvements in the weaving of 'figured textile goods,
the object being to produce the woven material by a new and improved process, such
process being for the purpose of incorporating in such material any desired distinctive
name, mark, pattern or design, the resultant cloth being similar in appearance to that
woven by means of an ordinary jacquard loom and cards, although by my process the
pattern jacquard cards might only require to be prepared for the standard design,
another kind of pattern being used for the supplementary or subsidiary design, or
even for the standard design, that is to say the supplementary or subsidiary design so
called might be the only one appearing on the cloth.
In carrying out my invention according to one modification, I weave the figured
cloth by means of cards in the usual way producing thereby the standard design.
When it is wanted to introduce the supplementary or subsidiary design the cards may
be disengaged and the supplementary or subsidiary design woven in the cloth by
means of a special pattern which through suitable connections controls the uprights
of the jacquard, such special pattern taking the place of the ordinary cards.
In another modification I do not use cards at all but weave the complete
design by means of the special pattern and its appurtenances, as previously described.
The special pattern is made of any suitable material, its surface having in it
depressions or openings arranged in a manner similar or somewhat similar to the
design desired to be woven on the cloth.
One way by which the aforesaid process can be utilized consists in the use of a
special pattern which may be of sheet metal and perforated, that is to say the pattern
may be cut out of the sheet of metal. The connections which control the uprights
of the jacquards may consist of hanging feelers coupled to their respective needles by
means of cords or bands. These cords pass over pulleys or guides-to which a slight
motion may be given-and so convert the horizontal pull on the needles into a
vertical pull on the hanging feelers. Each needle, may have its own feeler, or one
feeler may control a group of needles.
1000

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in and relating to the Weaving of Figured Textile
Goods.
I, ROBERT HEGGIE, Jr., of Kirkcaldy Power Loom Linen works, Kirkcaldy, in the County
of Fife, Scotland, Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in
what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement :-
This invention relates to improvements in the weaving of figured textile goods, the
object being to produce the woven material by a new and improved process, such
process being for the purpose of incorporating in such material any desired distinctive
name, mark, pattern, or design, the resultant cloth being, similar in appearance to
that woven by means of an ordinary jacquard loom and cards, although by my process
the pattern jacquard cards might only require to be prepared for the standard design,
another kind of pattern being used for the supplementary or subsidiary design, or
even for the standard design, that is to say the supplementary or subsidiary design
so called might be the only one appearing on the cloth.
And in order that my said invention and the manner of performing or carrying the
same into effect or practice may be properly understood, I have hereunto appended
three explanatory sheets of drawings in which the same reference numerals are used
to indicate corresponding parts in all the figures where shown, that is to say :-
Figure 1 (Sheet 1) is a diagramatic view showing how the jacquard uprights
may be actuated by the supplementary or subsidiary pattern.
Figure 2 (Sheet 1) is a plan showing how the needies may be constructed in order
that they may be suitable for actuation by the subsidiary pattern.
Figure 3 (Sheet 2) is a view similar to Figure 1, but showing the feelers clear of
the subsidiary pattern and the uprights vertical.
Figure 4 (Sheet 2) is a face view of the cams required.
Figure 5 (Sheet 3) is a part front elevation showing how the subsidiary pattern
cylinder may be actuated.
Figure 6 (Sheet 3) is an end elevation of same.
Figure 7 (Sheet 3) is a front elevation showing a modified form of subsidiary
pattern cylinder and,
Figure 8 (Sheet 3) is an end elevation of same.
In carrying out my invention according to one modification, I weave the figured
cloth by means of cards 10, in the usual way, producing thereby the standard design.
When it is wanted to introduce the supplementary or subsidiary design, the cards
may be disengaged or rendered inactive by punching where wanted, and the
supplementary or subsidiary design woven in the cloth by means of a special pattern
which through suitable connections controls the uprights of the jacquard, such special
pattern taking the place of the ordinary cards.
In another modification I do not use cards but weave the complete design by
means of the special pattern and its appurtenances, as previously described. The
special pattern is made of any suitable material, its surface having in it depressions
or openings arranged in a manner similar, or somewhat similar to the design desired
to be woven on the cloth.
One way by which the aforesaid process can be utilized consists in the use of a
special pattern which may be of sheet metal and perforated, that is to say the
pattern may be cut out of sheet metal. The connections which control the uprights
of the jacquards may consist of hanging feelers coupled to their respective needles by
means of cords or bands. These cords pass over pulleys or guides-to which a slight
motion may be given-and so convert the horizontal pull on the needles into a
vertical pull on the hanging feelers. Each needle may have its own feeler, or one

page_text: feeler may control a group of needles. It may be explained that in an ordinary
jacquard loom the cards control the design, whereas in my invention, I provide means
at the other extremities of the needles for somewhat similarly controlling the sub-
sidiary design so that if desired the latter may be interwoven with the design
produced by the cards.
The drawings illustrate, according to one modification, how the subsidiary design 11
may be made to actuate the uprights, and only the necessary parts of the loom
required to illustrate this are shown.
The pattern cylinder 12 may be made to intermittently move round at intervals
of one, two, or more shots. This is done by means of a lever 13 which is lifted by a
cord actuated by a suitable uptake cam 27. 14 is a pawl which engages with, and
intermittently pulls round a ratchet wheel 15, which in turn causes the wheels 16
and 17 to rotate, the latter moving round the worm 18 and worm wheel 19 which is
keyed to rotate with the shaft of the cylinder 12.
The feelers 20 are of metal and their lower points are arranged in line to pass,
side by side, through a slot in the guide 21; such slot being provided with partitions
to keep the feelers in position.
In Figure
I have shown one needle a with its feeler resting on the top of the
pattern and the other b with its feeler off such pattern, that is to say the needle a is
not influenced by its feeler because its weight is supported by the pattern and there-
fore the uprights 22 are not clear of the brander 23 and consequently they will be
lifted when such brander rises and the warp will be raised just as if the needle had
passed into the hole in the card. The needle b on the other hand is influenced by
the pattern 11 because the feeler having been unsupported by such pattern has
dropped along with frame 25 thus tightening cord to such an extent that when the
guide 28 is brought forward, as in Figure 3, needle b will be pulled forward and so
keep the uprights 24 clear of the brander which will rise without lifting them, and
the warp will not be raised even though such needle b be opposite a hole in the card.
Figure 3 shows all the feelers 20 lifted clear of the pattern 11. This operation is
performed by lifting the brander 25 by means of the lever 26, such lever being
actuated by a suitable cam 35, the feelers being lifted clear of the pattern previous to
the moving of the cylinder.
Its movement takes
In the drawings
The guide 28 is shown in its forward position in Figure 3.
place at every shot by means of the double cain 29 and the lever 30.
I have shown the three cams 35 27 and 29 mounted on the same shaft, such shaft
being arranged to rotate in the direction of the arrow, once for every two shots.
The cam 29 tightens the cord and actuates the lever 30 at the moment of selection
of the uprights by the brander 23 thus moving the guide 28 into the position shown
in Figure 3. Immediately after the selecting cam 29 is cleared, the feeler frame
cam 35 begins to act and when such frame 25 is fully lifted the uptake cam 27 com-
mences to operate and to move forward the pattern 11. It is obvious that the cams
35 and 27 should work synchronously although they need only be timed to act as
often as is considered necessary for the kind of cloth being woven, but the selecting
cam 29 must operate at every shot.
One of the uses to which my invention may be put is as follows:-
It is sometimes desirable that a name or particular device be woven on cloth, such
device being in conjunction with any other desired pattern. If cards only be em-
ployed to produce such a combination they must be specially cut. By employing the
supplementary pattern the ordinary cards may be used to produce the standard
design and the supplementary design may be added at intervals, or it may be inter-
woven with the standard design as may be found desirable.
Instead of merely causing the pattern cylinder 12 to rotate as previously described,
may cause it not only to rotate but also to move laterally along its axis and so cause
a spiral pattern to come beneath a group of feelers, in this manner weaving a long
and narrow design. One way of carrying this into effect is illustrated by Figures
and 8. The worin wheel 19 is keyed to the shaft of the cylinder 12 by means of a
sliding key in order that such cylinder while constrained to turn may be free to

page_text: move laterally. A spiral guide 31 with a slot or groove 32 in it is fixed to the
cylinder 12.
A wheel 33 which is free to rotate but which cannot move laterally, is carried by a
bracket 34 fixed to the guide 21. The rotation of the cylinder 12 causes the
spiral 32 to bear against the fixed wheel 33 and so constrains such cylinder to move
side ways.
Although I have illustrated and described how my invention may be applied to a
jacquard loom, yet it is evident that the arrangement and construction may be
modified without departing in any way from the spirit and scope of my invention.
It is to be understood that the lower extremities of the feelers 20 which are brought
into line as they pass through the guide 21 in a vertical direction act as extensions
of the jacquard needles and that I may extend and bring into line such needles in a
horizontal or other direction and cause their extremities to be provided with feelers
which will bear against the supplementary pattern by means of springs or other
equivalent devices and so actuate or control the uprights, and that the twilling or
binding threads may be woven as usual by the machine or healds.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said in-
vention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
(1) In looms for weaving figured textile goods the employment of a supplementary
pattern, feelers and their appurtenances for the purpose of actuating or controlling
the jacquard upright, substantially as described.
(2) In looms for weaving figured textile goods the employment of the supple-
mentary pattern, feelers and their appurtenances in substitution for the ordinary card
pattern in the jacquard loom, substantially as described.
(3) In looms for weaving figured textile goods, actuating or controlling the needles
from both extremities, substantially as described.
(4) In looms for weaving figured textile goods, the combination of a pattern
cylinder with feelers, substantially as described.
(5) In looms for weaving figured textile goods, the combination of a pattern
cylinder with feelers and spiral guide, substantially as described and illustrated by
Figures 7 and 8 of the annexed drawings.
(6) In jacquard looms, the mode of bringing the needles into line by means of
feelers, substantially as described.
(7) The construction, arrangement and combination of parts, substantially as
described and illustrated in the accompanying drawings.
Dated this 1st day of December 1898.
GEO. C. DOUGLAS & Co.,
41, Reform Street, Dundee, Agents for Applicant.