IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF THE MATERIAL INTENDED FOR SCARFS OR CRAVATS, AND IN THE MACHINERY EMPLOYED THEREIN
Year: 1862

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to John Stewart Margetson, of the Firm of Welch,
Margetson and Company, of Cheapside, in the City of London, for the
Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF THE MATERIAL
INTENDED FOR SCARFS OR CRAVATS, AND IN THE MACHINERY EMPLOYED
THEREIN."
Sealed the 13th February 1863, and dated the 5th September 1862.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said John Stewart Margetson
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on
the 5th September 1862.
I, JOHN STEWART MARGETSON, of the Firm of Welch, Margetson and
Company, of Cheapside, in the City of London, do hereby declare the naturo
of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF THE MATERIAL
INTENDED FOR SCARFS OR CRAVATS, AND IN THE MACHINERY EMPLOYED THEREIN," to
be as follows:-
This Invention consists of an improved manufacture of the material used for
scarfs or cravats, and which is composed of silk of various colours and patterns,
the object of the Invention being to form what is known as a "twilled cloth " or
tissue twilled on both sides. In order to produce the material I arrange a

page_text: warp of silk in the loom, and change the machinery relative to the battens and
shuttles by placing two shuttle boxes and shuttles one on each side of the warp,
and on different levels instead of employing only one shuttle. I then make
two shoots or a double shoot with the upper shuttle, and the same with the
lower shuttle, and beat up with the batten, whereby I produce a twilled silk
fabric of any desired colours on each side of the same. If I desire to make a
striped fabric of different colors, I supply the shuttle with bobbins containing
the requisite silk, and if I desire to make a check or other pattern, I employ
the jacquard, in order to bring up the coloured silks to form the requisite
pattern or design. By these means I manufacture a fabric much thinner and
lighter than that usually made, whereby a saving in the expense of the fabric
is effected.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said John Stewart Margetson in the Great Seal Patent Office on
the 5th March 1863.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, Jonn
STEWART MARGETSON, of the Firm of Welch, Margetson and Company, of
Cheapside, in the City of London, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by IIer Letters
Patent, bearing date the Fifth day of September, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-two, in the twenty-sixth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me,
the said John Stewart Margetson, Her special licence, that I, the said
John Stewart Margetson, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such
others as I, the said John Stewart Margetson, executors, administrators,
and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time
and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and
lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of
Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an
Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF THE MATERIAL INTENDED
FOR SCARFS OR CRAVATS, AND IN THE MACHINERY EMPLOYED THEREIN," upon the
condition (amongst others) that I, the said John Stewart Margetson, my
executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their,
or one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain

page_text: the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to
be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Offico
within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said
Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said John Stewart Margetson, do hereby
declare the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to bo
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:-
This Invention consists of an improved manufacture of the material used
for scarfs or cravats, and which is composed of silk, or cotton, or wool, or other
textile materials of various colors and patterns, and of a different pattern or
stripe, and colors on each side of the fabric.
In order to explain my said Invention as completely as possible, I now
proceed to describe the best means I am acquainted with for carrying the same
into practical effect, as follows:-I arrange in the loom a single warp of fine
silk or other material, and I form a double series of wefts of silk or other
material of the various desired colors, wound on bobbins in shuttles, one series
of such shuttles being worked on a higher level than the others, and which are
thrown across the warp by hand or steam power, whereby the warp is buried
between the wefts, and a different series of stripes and colors is produced on
each side of the fabric, according to the colors of silk or other materials in
the shuttles; and in some cases I employ gold or silver thread to form some of
the stripes. The result of these arrangements is, that I produce a twilled
fabric, twilled on both sides, having a striped pattern of any number of colors,
and of various widths, on both sides of the cloth, the patterns being totally
different from each other.
A great advantage will be obtained by the adoption of this Invention,
as scarfs or cravats may be produced thereby, capable of being reversed and
worn to represent two patterns, or in other words to be equal in effect to two
different scarfs.
Having now described the nature and object of my said Invention of "Im-
provements in the Manufacture of the Material intended for Scarfs or Cravats,
and in the Machinery employed therein," and the manner in which the same
is to be performed, I would remark in conclusion that I do not limit or restrict
myself to the exact details herein expressed, as the same may obviously be
varied or modified without in any way departing from the principle of my said
Invention; but what I claim and desire to be secured to me by the herein in
part recited Letters Patent, is, the production, by means of a doublo scries

page_text: of wefts and one warp, of two patterns of totally different coloring and stripes
on a twilled cloth, twilled on both sides, one pattern being on each side of the
same scarf or cravat, substantially in the manner herein specified.
In witness whereof, I, the said John Stewart Margetson, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, this Seventeenth day of February, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-three.
Witness,
ALEX. C. M. PRINCE,
Office for Patents,
4, Trafalgar Square,
Charing Cross.
J. S. MARGETSON. (L.B.)