PROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES, AND IN MACHINERY TO BE USED IN SUCH MANUFACTURE
Year: 1869

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Thomas Greenwood, of Leeds, in the County of
York, Machine Maker, and John Keats, of Leek, in the County of
Stafford, Boot and Shoe Manufacturer, for the Invention of "IM
PROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES, AND IN MACHINERY
TO BE USED IN SUCH MANUFACTURE."
Sealed the 22nd May 1869, and dated the 31st March 1869.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Thomas Greenwood and
John Keats at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with their
'Petition, on the 31st March 1869.
We, THOMAS GREENWOOD, of Leeds, in the County of York, Machine
Maker, and JOHN KEATS, of Leek, in the County of Stafford, Boot and
Shoe Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention-
for "IMPROVEMENTS IN. THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES, AND IN
MACHINERY TO BE USED IN SUCH MANUFACTURE," to be as follows :→
This Invention, relates, firstly, to an improved mode of cutting and
making up the uppers of Loots with the view to render the boot water-
proof; and, secondly, to the mode of and machinery for finishing such
boots, and also boots and shoes of the ordinary construction, so as to
effect an economy in and improve the quality of the manufacture.
[Price R11

page_text: "
In order to attain the first object of our Invention we shape the front
part of the boot upper in such a way as to provide two folding pieces,
which act the part of gussets, and are securely sewn to the "back
quarter of the "upper." Elastic side pieces or springs may also be
applied to form an additional connection between the front part of the
upper and the back quarter. A strap, which is part of the back quarter, is
shaped so as to pass round the front of the boot to connect with a button
or buckle on the other side, and thus close the upper part of the boot.
By cutting the front part of the upper in one piece and connecting it
with the back quarter as explained we make the boot practically water-
proof. The elastic side pieces when used are covered by the back
quarter of the upper, and the strap will hold the front part of the upper
with its folding pieces or gussets close to the foot and ankle.
The second head of the Invention relates to the manufacture of welt
boots and shoes, and also of pump or single sole boots and shoes. The im-
provements with respect to welt boots have reference to the preparation
of the upper for receiving the insole and the welt, the shaping of the
partially formed boot preparatory to its receiving the outer sole, and the
connecting of the heel to the boot by sewing, the sewing according to
our plan of manufacture being continued all round the boot.
We have also designed a novel construction of lasting machine which
applies to the lasting of boots of both kinds. And with respect to pump
sole boots we employ, 1st, a novel means of forming a flange on the flesh
side of the leather that is to form the sole, which flange will receive
the stitches for connecting the sole with the upper; 2ndly, a novel
construction of machine for turning the sewn boot inside out.
In order to prepare the upper we submit it to the action of a blocking
machine which consists of a table fitted at its opposite ends with clips,
one of which is moveable and the other stationary. The moveable clip
is shaped to receive the toe of the upper, and the fixed clip embraces the
heel. The moveable clip is hinged to a slide which moves in guides
formed for it in the table; these guides extend for the greater portion
of the length of the table, and receive also a slide which carries the
blocking or shaping tool; this tool is shaped at one end to fit internally
the toe, and at the other end to fit the heel, and the opposing faces of
the clips are made counterparts respectively of the toe and heel ends of
the tool, in order that they may embrace and assist in shaping the
upper. The clip slide and the blocking slide are moved to and fro by

page_text: the traversing screws, which are connected to their respective slides by
swivel couplings. In fitting the upper to the machine it is placed over
the shaping tool, and the heel portion is applied to the fixed clip while
the moving clip secures the toe. This being done the shaping tool is
forced into the heel and caused to press tightly against it, and thus
mould it with its stiffening pieces to the required shape. The shaping
tool is then caused to advance towards the too and strain the soft leather
to the required shape. When the set of the leather is secured the tool
is moved back and the upper is released from the machine. The upper
is now ready to be placed upon the insole. These parts are now slightly
sewn together or "tacked" by means of an ordinary sewing machine,
and only for the purpose of holding the two in position. They are then
taken to what is known as the Patent Crispin post sewing machine
and the welt, upper, and insole are there sewn together all round,
including the heel seat or hack quarter with strong waxed thread, the
welt in this system of manufacture going completely round the insole.
The boot or shoe thus far formed is then taken to what we term the toe
and heel forming machine, and there stretched into the required shape.
To allow of this the welt, which was uppermost as the boot came from
the Crispin machine, is turned to the under side, the outer edges being
at the same time turned inwards. The leather being soft and pliable
this turning over of the sewn edges and bringing of them inwards is
readily effected by hand, and it is now desired to place an expanding
former within the hollow formed below the insole, and to expand it so as
to give the required contour (or shape in plan) to the boot. The
expanding former resembles somewhat a pair of tongs, that is to say, it
has two limbs connected together at the heel end by a hinged joint.
The outer edge of the one limb takes the line of the inner side of a boot
or shoe, and the outer edge of the other limb takes the line of the outer
side of the boot or shoe. Between the limbs is a space that will allow
of the insertion between them of a screw stud.
embraced by the limbs of the former, and the
the limb so as to hold them down in place.
prevent its protruding more than necessary into the boot. This stud
when thrust forward towards the extremities of the limbs will cause
them to expand and strain the boot laterally, while at the same time it
is strained longitudinally by the action of a fixed and stationary screw
cramp fitted to a kind of lathe bed, the moveable cramp being operated
by a traversing screw. The former is fitted at one end on a pin pro-
The neck of this stud is
head of the stud overlaps
The head is chamfered to

page_text: jecting from a traversing block fitted to the bed of the machine, and
at the other by the screw stud which serves to expand the former. This
stud enters a toe piece that fits into another traversing block mounted on
the bed of the machine. The boot being held firmly by the cramps and
extended longitudinally thereby the heel of the former is pressed into
action; the block carrying the toe piece is then advanced and caused
to press out the toe to the required shape, while at the same time the
screw stud moving into a contracted space between the limbs of the
former will open them out and cause them to expand the boot or shoe
laterally, after which the boot is ready to receive the outer sole. The
outer sole having been previously prepared and channelled round the
tront part and waist is then sewn to the welt by means of the Crispin
post machine so far as it is channelled. One or two thicknesses of
leather or "lifts" to form the heel are then placed in position, and they
and the remaining part of the sole are by means of the Crispin post
machine firmly sewn to that part of the welt which goes round the heel.
Where high heels are required the additional thicknesses of leather to
form such heels can be nailed on, one upon another, without the nails
passing through the insole, thus securing a perfectly smooth inside as far
as the leather itself will permit. After the outer sole is sewn on the
next process is "lasting" the boot or shoe, and to do this we provide a
machine which has a short slide upon the bed plate of the machine.
Opposite to this slide is a gripping cramp supplied with a screw bolt
for holding the "heel seat" of the boot firmly to the bed plate of the
machine. A "gripper" which moves in a slide already mentioned takes
hold of the toe end of the boot. A hollow segment frame representing
about one-fourth of a circle stands up from and is made fast to the heel
end of the bed plate of the machine. This frame extends over the boot
when placed within the grips, and it carries three adjustable saddles.
These saddles are fitted with swivelling nuts to receive severally a screw.
One screw is mounted over the heel, and carries a pair of grippers
resembling ordinary smith's tongs, but provided with a bolt and lever
nut for the purpose of holding the boot by the top part of the back
quarter of the upper. A second screw is mounted over the instep part
of the boot carrying grippers for gripping the top of the fore quarter or
"front" of the upper. A third screw carries a pressing, block, and is
intended to operate upon the last. The last having been partially
inserted by hand into the boot which is held firmly on the table the
third screw is turned, so as to press upon the last and force it into the

page_text: boot, where it is retained until the boot has become set, the cramps and
grippers being slackened to enable the boot to be removed from the
machine that the operation may be repeated; this machine may be
used in connection with boots and shoes of both kinds. The pump or
single sole boot or shoe however requires special apparatus for facilitating
its manufacture, which shall now be described. The flange for receiving
the stitches that are to unite the sole with the upper being formed by
slitting the edge of the sole near the flesh face of the leather to a given
depth by passing it over a stationary knife blade, the next operation is
to bend up the remaining thickness of the sole that it may be out of the
way of the needle when the sole and upper are being united in the
sewing machine. This bending up of the sole edge is effected in a
fly press fitted with an expanding die or moulding plate suited to the
form of sole under treatment, and a pressing block of corresponding
profile form for forcing the sole into the die plate. The pressing block
is so made that either face may be turned down, and it will thus serve
both for rights and lefts; this loose pressing block is caused to act
upon the sole (upon which it is laid when the sole is in place) by means of
a follower, which on its descent bears upon the block with a force
corresponding to that used to propel it. On the bed of the machine are
guides on which a slide carrying one-half of a die plate is mounted;
the other half of the die plate is fixed firmly to the bed; this die plate
consists of two knife-edge pieces of steel so shaped that when their knife
edges are brought together they will present a cavity suitable for
thrusting the sole down into for the purpose of turning up the edge
thereof. Below the die plate is a table which is used to receive the sole,
it is borne upwards by a coiled spring, but will yield to the downward
pressure of the pressing block. In order to work with this machine the
follower is raised and the slide is drawn back a short distance to allow of
the insertion of the sole between the knife edges. The fixed knife edge
being now fitted into the slit made round the edge of the sole the slide is
advanced until the knife edge which it carries has entered the slit a
suitable distance. The pressing block is then placed upon the sole, and
the follower is brought down and caused to thrust the sole through the
die plate, by which act the thick portion of the slit edge will be turned up
at right angles. The sole thus prepared is now ready to receive the upper.
This having been applied and secured by the aid of the sewing machine
the flesh side of the leather being outwards, the next thing is to turn the
connected parts inside out in order to bring the sole and upper into

page_text: their proper relative positions, that is, with the grain side of the leather
outwards. This operation is effected by the aid of the machine to be
now described. Before however applying the boot to this machine it is
first partially turned inside out by hand, the leather when stiff and
unyielding being damped to render the same more pliable. The machine
may be thus described :-Standing up from a bed plate is a pair of
curved guide arms for supporting an adjustable screwed socket; this
socket is held in place on the guide arms by a clamping screw, which
when slackened will admit of the ready adjustment of the socket;
through this socket works a propelling screw operated by a hand wheel
keyed thereto; the inner end of this screw terminates in a ball which
is secured in a spherical socket made in the end of a plunger rod, which
rod passes through a swivel guide carried by a horn projecting hori-
zontally from a bracket piece hinged to the bed plate; the horn is
slotted horizontally and vertically to receive the swivel guide and its
trunnions on which it rocks; a set screw serves to limit the lateral
movement in one direction of the rod, and immediately opposite the
horn is a screw which works in a lug cast on the bed plate, and carries
at its inner end a cup which is intended to form a rest for the heel of the
boot, and to advance it nearer and nearer to the horn while the toe is
being thrust out by the action of the propeller rod; the boot having
been partially turned by hand is placed in the machine, the horn being
inserted in the boot and the plunger rod being drawn back sufficiently to
facilitate its insertion; the cup is now brought up into contact with the
heel so as to hold the boot firmly; the plunger rod is then gradually
advanced, and bearing upon the toe part of the boot it will thrust it
outwards, the direction of the thrust being adjusted by means of the set
screw before mentioned, assisted by the automatic rising of the bracket
on its hinge under the diagonal strain put on the boot.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, 3
filed by the said Thomas Greenwood and John Keats in the Great
Seal Patent Office on the 30th September 1869.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, THOMAS
GREENWOOD, of Leeds, in the County of York, Machine Maker, and
JOHN KEATS, of Leek, in the County of Stafford, Boot and Shoe Manu- 3
facturer, send greeting.

page_text: of
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Thirty-first day of March, in the year
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-nine, in the thirty-
second year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give
and grant unto us, the said Thomas Greenwood and John Keats, Her
special licence that we, the said Thomas Greenwood and John Keats,
our executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as we, the said
Thomas Greenwood and John Keats, our executors, administrators, and
assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to
time and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should
and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United
Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle
of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS
AND SHOES, AND IN MACHINERY TO BE USED IN SUCH MANUFACTURE," upon the
condition (amongst others) that we, the said Thomas Greenwood and
John Keats, our executors or administrators, by an instrument in
waiting under our, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should
particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention,
and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the
same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar
months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that we, the said Thomas Greenwood and John
Keats, do hereby declare the nature of our said Invention, and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement, reference being had to
the Drawing hereunto annexed, and to the letters and figures marked
thereon (that is to say):-
This Iuvention relates, firstly, to an improved mode of cutting and
making up the uppers of boots with the view to the manufacture of
waterproof boots; and, secondly, to the mode of and machinery for
finishing such boots, and also boots and shoes of the ordinary con-
struction, so as to effect an economy in and improve the quality of the
manufacture.
In Sheet I. of the accompanying Drawings, the first part of our
Invention is illustrated in several views, Fig. 1 being a side elevation
of the improved boot, Fig. 2 a plan view, Fig. 3 a front elevation of the
same, and Fig. 4 a diagram plan view of the expanding portion of the
boot,

page_text: By reference to these Figures it will be seen that the front part a of
the boot upper is shaped in such a way as to provide two folding
pieces a*, a*, which act the part of gussets. The edges of these gussets are
securely sewn to the "back quarter" b of the "upper" in the lines b*, 6*,
and to form an additional connection between the front part of the upper
and the back quarter elastic side pieces c, c, are applied to the boot,
but these may be dispensed with if thought desirable. A strap or
tongue d, which is part of the back quarter or attached thereto passes
round the front of the boot to connect with a button or a buckle on the
other side, and thereby close the upper part of the boot. By cutting.
the front part of the upper in one piece and connecting it with the back
quarter as explained we leave no vertical openings in the boot, and thus
make it practically waterproof. The elastic side pieces when used are
covered by the back_quarter of the upper, and the strap or tongue will
hold the front part of the upper with its folding pieces or gussets close
to the foot and ankle. Boot fronts thus prepared are intended to receive
clump soles, and form therewith a strong boot suitable for hard wear in
rough weather.
The second head of the Invention relates to the manufacture of welt
boots and shoes, and also of pump or single sole boots and shoes. The
improvements with respect to welt boots have reference to the pre-
paration of the upper for receiving the insole and the welt, the shaping
of the partially formed boot preparatory to its receiving the outer sole
and the connecting of the heel to the boot by sewing, the sewing
according to our plan of manufacture being continued all round the
boot.
We have also designed a novel construction of lasting machine which
applies to the lasting of boots of both kinds. And with respect to pump
sole boots we employ a novel construction of machine for bending up the
edge of the sole, from which is cut (near the flesh side of the sole
leather) the flange that is to receive the stitches for connecting the sole
with the upper.
Also a novel construction of machine for turning the
sewn boot inside out.
In order to bring the uppers of boots roughly to shape at the toe and
heel, and at the same time to form a well creased outward flange for
attachment to the sole, we submit the uppers to the action of a blocking
machine, which is shewn in Sheet II., Fig. 1 being a longitudinal
vertical section of the blocking machine with an upper applied thereto,

page_text: and Fig. 2 a plan view of the same. It consists of a table A, at the
opposite ends of which clips B and C are mounted. The clip B is shaped
to receive the toe of the upper, and the clip C embraces the heel. The
clip B is hinged to a slide B', which moves in guides formed for it in the
table, and it is caused to hold the toe of the upper firmly upon the slide
by means of a clamping screw B³. The table is slotted for the greater
portion of its length to receive the slide B¹ carrying the clip, and also a
slide D¹ which carries the blocking or shaping tool D. This tool is
shaped at one end to fit internally the toe, and at the other end to fit
and C are made coun-
the heel, and the opposing faces of the clips B
terparts respectively of the toe and heel ends of the tool, in order that
they may embrace and assist in shaping the upper. The clip C is
pivotted to lugs cast on the table, and at its rear end it carries a screw C¹,
which when screwed down will cause the clip to hold the heel of the
upper firmly to the table. The slides B' and D₁ are moved to and fro
by the traversing screws B³, D2, which are connected to their respective
slides by swivel couplings; these screws carry at their ends hand
wheels for operating them, and they work in screwed bearings in the
table. In fitting the upper to the machine it is placed over the shaping
tool D, and the heel portion is applied to the clip C and secured as
described; the clip B is then moved up to and caused to secure the toe.
This being done the shaping tool D is drawn back into the heel and
caused to press tightly against it, and thus mould it with its stiffening
pieces to the required shape, the clip C serving to resist the pressure of
the tool D. The set of the leather at the heel having been secured the
traversing screw D is now turned in the reverse direction to advance
the tool towards the toe, and the tool being thus pressed forward will
strain the soft leather to the required shape. When the set of the leather
is secured the tool is moved back and the upper is released from the
machine. The upper is now ready to be attached to the insole pre-
paratory to being secured to the sole. The upper and insole are first
slightly sewn together or "tacked" by means of an ordinary sewing
machine for the purpose of holding the two in position, and then the
welt, upper, and insole are sewn together (by preference by means of
the Patent Crispin post sewing machine) all round (including the heel,
seat, or back quarter) with strong waxed thread, the welt in this system
of manufacture going completely round the insole. The boot or shoe
thus far formed is then taken to what we term the toe and heel or

page_text: contour forming machine, and there stretched into the required shape
for receiving the outer sole.
. Preparatory to placing the partially formed boot in this machine,
which is shewn in several views in Sheet III., the sewn edges are bent
over into the position shewn in the cross section, Fig 1 (that is to say),
the welt instead of being at the upper side, as when sewn, is turned to
the under side, the outer edges being at the same time turned inwards.
The insole having been previously skived or thinned off at its edges and
the leather being soft and pliable, this turning over of the sewn edges
and bringing of them inwards is readily effected by hand, and it is now
desired to place an expanding former within the hollow formed below
the insole, and to expand it so as to give the required contour (or shape
in plan) to the boot. The expanding former is for this purpose con-
structed of a size and shape- to suit the boot to be made. Fig. 2 shews
in plan view one of these in its contracted state, and the dotted lines in
the Figure shew the probable amount of expansion it may receive. The
former resembles somewhat a pair of tongs (that is to say) it has two
limbs a, a, connected together at one end by a hinged joint b. The
outer edge of the limb a takes the line of the inner side of a boot or
shoe, and the outer edge of the limb a¹ takes the line of the outer side
of the boot or shoe. Between the limbs is a space that will allow of the
insertion between them of a screw stud, shewn in several views at
Figures 3. The neck of this stud is embraced by the limbs of the
former, and the head of the stud overlaps the limbs so as to hold them
down in place; the head is chamfered to prevent its protruding more
than necessary into the boot; this stud when thrust forward towards
the extremities of the limbs a, a¹, will cause them to expand and strain
the boot laterally, while at the same time it is strained longitudinally
in the manner to be now described.
Fig. 4 is a longitudinal sectional elevation of the contour forming
machine with the former applied thereto; Fig. 5 is a plan view of the
same; and Fig. 6 is a partial sectional elevation of the same on an
enlarged scale with a boot applied thereto. The machine consists of a
bed A, somewhat like a lathe bed, carried by suitable supports. In the
guides of this slotted bed are fitted three sliding blocks C, D, E. The
block C carries a stud or pin c which enters a central opening on the
hinge 6 of the former. This block is tapped to receive a hollow screw C¹,

page_text: which has its bearing in the end of the table and is fitted with a hand
wheel C for turning it. The interior of this screw is tapped to receive
a traversing screw D¹ secured at its inner end to the block D and
carrying a handle at its other end for turning it. This block D is cast
with a socket to receive a pin projecting from a toe piece D³ which is
intended to press the toe of the boot into shape and is made removeable
to suit the boot desired to be operated upon. The stud which serves
to expand the former is screwed into this block and is changed with the
block to suit various sizes of boots and shoes. Upon the block E is
mounted a screw cramp E', the jaws of which are shaped to embrace
the toe of the boot and hold that portion of the welt with a firm grip. A
screw Es working into a tappet hole in the table and carrying at its outer
end a handle for working it is secured to the block E, and by turning the
screw E³ the cramp is advanced to the work and drawn back to draw
it to tension. Affixed to the table A is a screw cramp A¹, the jaws of
which are formed to embrace the heel of the boot, and they serve to
grip the heel portion of the welt and hold it firmly. In order to shape
a boot or shoe with this machine the sewn edges are bent over the
former, as described with reference to Fig. 2, and the former with the
boot upon it is placed in the machine, the toe piece having first been
connected with the former. The stud pin on the block C enters the
centre hole in the hinge 6 of the former, and the pin on the toe piece
enters the hole made to receive it in the block D. The heel and toe
parts of the welt are now secured in the stationary and moveable
cramps A, E, respectively, and the screw E2 is turned to extend the
boot lengthwise; this being done the screw C¹ is turned to draw back
the former into close contact with the heel, as shewn at Fig. 6, and
the toe piece is then advanced by means of the screw D¹; this advance
of the toe piece will have a double action, for the toe piece while pressing
the toe of the boot into form will carry with it the screw stud, which
advancing into the contracted space between the limbs a, a¹, of the
former will expand the same and put the required lateral strain on the
boot. The retention of the boot in the machine a short time will enable
the soft stained leather to set, and when this is done the boot may be
removed, after which it will be ready to receive the outer sole. The
outer sole having been previously prepared and channelled round the
front part and waist is then sewn to the welt by means of the Crispin
post machine so far as it is channelled. One or two thicknesses of
leather or "lifts" to form the heel are then placed in position, and they

page_text: and the remaining part of the sole are by means of the Crispin post
machine firmly sewn to that part of the welt which goes round the
heel. Where high heels are required the additional thicknesses of
leather to form such heels can be nailed on, one upon another, without
the nails passing through the insole, thus securing a perfectly smooth
inside as far as the leather itself will permit.
The next operation is to bring the boot to shape by the application
thereto of an expanding last. The last consists of detached pieces,
which are inserted in the boot by hand, and then are thrust home
by the application of machinery, which we will now proceed to
describe.
In Sheet IV. Fig. 1 is a side elevation partly in section of the machine
for forcing the last into place; Fig. 2 is a sectional elevation of the
same taken in the line 1, 2, of Fig. 1; and Fig. 3 is a plan view of the
table of the machine shewing the fittings connected therewith. A is
the table of the machine carried by standards B, B; made fast to this
table is a pair of curved bracket arms C, C, which are intended to
receive between them adjustable sockets D, E, F; these sockets are
tapped to receive respectively the screws D¹, E, F¹, and they are
clamped to the bracket arms C when adjusted to the desired point by
means of screws d, e, f. The screw D' carries two screw clips or
grippers D³, which are secured thereto by a swivel joint at its lower
end; these are used for gripping the front part of the upper, one only
being required when the upper is undivided, but when a lace-up boot
is under operation the two screw clips are required to hold the divided
upper; a similar screw clip F2 is attached to the screw F¹ for gripping
the rear part of the upper. Fitted to the lower end of the screw E is
a block E which bears upon the last for the purpose of forcing it down
to the bottom of the boot. The bottom of the last is shaped so as to
give the proper form to the sole, and the face of the table is hollowed
to form a mould for the pump sole and assist in bringing it to the desired
shape. Hinged to the table is a forked piece G which carries a steel
blunt-edged blade that is shaped to embrace the heel, of the boot; this
blade is intended to grip the heel of the boot by entering the recess
between the sole and the upper, and when the boot is thus placed it is
secured by holding down the forked piece G to the table by means
of the screw G¹. The boot is secured to the table at the toe by means
of a forked piece H carried by a slide H³, which moves in guides cast

page_text: The forked piece being
embrace it by entering
on or attached to the table, it being propelled by means of a screw H²
working in a tapped lug on the end of the table.
moved up to the tce of the boot and caused to
the recess between the sole and the upper, it is made fast by means of
the screw and clamping nut h which holds the slide and forked piece
firmly to the guides on the table.
The action of this machine is as follows:-Suppose the boot to have
been placed on the table and secured between the forked pieces G and H,
as shewn at Fig. 1, and the last to have been inserted in the boot, the
screw clips D2 and F2 are caused to lay hold of the upper, as also shown,
and draw the same tight. The screw E¹ will now be in the dotted
position shewn at Fig. 1, and being turned it will thrust the last up
towards the toe; this being done the screw is shifted to the drawn
position, and it is then operated to thrust down the last and cause it
to bring the boot to the required shape. When the boot has remained
under pressure a suitable time it is released from the machine, and a
tightening wedge is then inserted in the last to give the proper shape
to the instep; this having been done the last is left in the boot to
ensure its "setting" to the proper form, and to facilitate its being
handled while the heel is being affixed to the sole and the edges of the
sole and heel are being shaped and pared.
The above-described machine may be used in connection with boots
and shoes both on the welt and pump sole principles. The pump or
single sole boot or shoe however requires special apparatus for facilitating
its manufacture, which shall now be described. The flange for receiving
the stitches that are to unite the sole with the upper being formed by
slitting the edge of the sole near the flesh face of the leather to a given
depth (by passing it over a stationary knife blade), the next operation
is to bend up the remaining thickness of the sole that it may be out of
the way of the needle when the sole and upper are being united in the
sewing machine; this bending up of the sole edge is effected in a fly
press fitted with an expanding die or moulding plate suited to the form
of sole under treatment, and a pressing block of corresponding profile
form for forcing the sole into the die plate.
In Sheet V. this fly press is shewn in several views. Fig. 1 is a front
elevation, and Fig. 2 is a side elevation of the fly press; Fig. 3 is a
sectional plan view taken in the line 1, 2, of Fig. 1, and Fig. 4 is an

page_text: enlarged sectional elevation of the operating parts. A is the bed of the
press supported on standards B, and to it are secured the rods which
carry the cross head C and act as guides to the follower D; E is a
pressing block corresponding in horizontal profile somewhat with the
form of the sole, as shewn at Figures 5, which represent the block in plan
and edge views. It is so made that either face may be turned down-
wards, and it will thus serve both for rights and lefts. This loose
pressing block is caused to act upon the sole (on which it is laid when
the sole is in place) by means of the follower, which on its descent bears
upon the block E with a force corresponding to that used to propel it.
On the bed A are formed fixed guides on which a slide F is mounted ;
This slide carries one-half of the die plate G, the other of which is fixed
firmly to the bed A by clamping screws. The die plate G consists of
two knife-edged pieces of steel, so-shaped that when their knife edges
are brought together they will present a cavity suitable to receive the
sole when forced through the die plate G for the purpose of turning up
the edge thereof. The slide F is worked by a screw and hand wheel ƒ,
and it is used to advance the moveable half of the plate G to the sole,
and when the same has been operated upon to open the plate and allow
of the removal of the sole. Below the plate G is a table H which is
used to receive the sole; it is borne upwards by a coiled spring, but will
yield to the downward pressure of the pressing block. In order to work
with this machine the follower is raised and the slide F is drawn back
a short distance to allow of the insertion of the sole between the knife
edges. The fixed knife edge being now fitted into the slit made round
the edge of the sole the slide F is advanced until the knife edge which
it carries has entered the slit a suitable distance. The block E is then
placed upon the sole and the follower is brought down (by the action of
the lever arms and screw) and caused to thrust the sole into the
position shewn in Fig. 4, the table H yielding for this purpose.
this act the thick portion of the slit edge will be turned up at right
angles, or nearly so, and when the block is raised (it being kept down
for a minute or so for the leather, to set) the table H will lift the sole
and allow of ready removal from the machine. I have said that the
block may be inverted to suit rights and lefts; this remark applies also
to the plates G. The sole thus prepared is now ready to receive the
upper. This having being applied and secured, by preference, by the
aid of the Crispin post sewing machine (the flesh side of the leather
being outwards), the next thing is to turn the connected parts inside
By

page_text: out in order to bring the sole and upper into their proper relative
positions, that is, with the grain side of the leather outwards.
This operation is effected by the aid of the machine shewn in Sheet VI.
Fig. 1 is a side elevation of the boot-turuing machine; Fig. 2 is a plan
view of the same; and Fig. 3 is a partial sectional plan on an enlarged
scale. Before applying the boot to this machine it is first turned inside
out by hand to the extent, shewn at Fig. 4, the leather when stiff and
unyielding being first damped to render the same more pliable.
The machine may be thus described:-A is a bed plate, from which
stands up a pair of curve guide arms B for supporting an adjustable
screwed swivel socket C; this socket is held in place on the arms B by
a clamping screw c, which when slackened will admit of the ready
adjustment of the socket. Through the swivelling portion of this socket
works a propelling screw D operated by a hand wheel keyed thereto.
The inner end of this screw terminates in a ball which is secured in a
spherical socket made in the end of a plunger rod E; this rod passes
through a swivel guide F carried by a horn G which projects horizontally
from a bracket piece H hinged to the bed plate A. The horn is slotted
to receive the swivel guide F, which is fitted with trunnions on which it
rocks; these trunnions enter lateral slots formed in the horn on either
side of the central slot in the swivel guide. For limiting the lateral
movement in one direction of the rod E a set screw I fits in a tapped
hole in the bracket H, and is caused to bear against the guide F.
Immediately opposite the horn G is a screw K which works in a
threaded hole made in a lug cast on the bed plate. This screw carries
at its inner end a cup k, which is intended to form a rest for the heel
of the boot and to advance it nearer and nearer to the horn G while
the toe is being thrust out by the action of the propeller rod E. The
boot having been turned by hand to the extent indicated at Fig. 4 is
placed in the machine, as shewn at Fig. 8 (that is to say), the horn G is
inserted in the boot, the plunger rod E being drawn back sufficiently to
facilitate its insertion, and the cup k is brought up into contact with the
heel so as to hold the boot firmly. The rod E is then gradually advanced
by turning the screw D; this rod bearing upon the toe part of the boot
will thrust it outwards, and the direction of the thrust being adjusted by
means of the screw I assisted by the automatic rising of the bracket H
on its hinge under the diagonal strain put on the boot the rod will

page_text: follow up the receding toe and eventually thrust it out to its full
length.
Having now set forth the nature of our Invention of "Improvements
in the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes, and in Machinery to be used
in such Manufacture," and having explained the manner of carrying
the same into effect, we wish it to be understood that under the above
in part recited Letters Patent we claim,―
First. The improved manufacture of boots above described and
illustrated in Sheet I. of the accompanying Drawings.
Second. The improved construction of machine for blocking uppers,
as described with reference to Sheet II. of the Drawings.
Third. The use of a confour forming machine constructed and
operating in the manner described with reference to Sheet III. of the
- Drawings.
Fourth. The lasting machine, as described with reference to Sheet IV.
of the Drawings.
Fifth. Bending up the edges of the pump sole in the manner and
for the purpose above described with reference to Sheet V. of the
Drawings.
Sixth. The boot-turning machine, as described with reference to
Sheet VI. of the Drawings.
In witness whereof, we, the said Thomas Greenwood and John
Keats, have hereunto set our hands and seals, the Twenty-eighth
day of September, in the year of our Lord One thousand eight
hundred and sixty-uine.