IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF RIBBON, BRAID OR THE LIKE AND APPARATUS THEREFOR to be as follows:
Year: 1884

page_text: I, HENRY HARRIS LAKE of the firm of Haseltine Lake, & Co, Patent Agents
Southampton Buildings, in the County of Middlesex do hereby declare the nature
of my invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF RIBBON, BRAID OR
THE LIKE AND APPARATUS THEREFOR to be as follows:-
"
-:
This invention relates to the manufacture of border ribbons, laces, or the like in
a folded condition by braiding or weaving, and to apparatus therefor.
Ribbons, braids, laces or the like as heretofore manufactured for ornamenting,
and protecting the borders of, articles of wearing apparel have a flat shape with
two faces only, an upper and a lower one.
When any article is bordered with these ribbons, it is the custom to secure the
latter by stitching through the cloth and the folded ribbon which is placed around
the edge of the said article, or by first sewing one of the edges of the ribbon to the
article to be trimmed, then folding the ribbon around the border of the article, and
then sewing the other edge on the underside.
The first mode of bordering presents great difficulty in obtaining regular work,
on account of the seamstress finding it hard work to keep the ribbon folded. The
second mode produces more perfect work, but much more time is needed thus
rendering the work more expensive.
Whichever of these two modes is made use of it is always necessary to press the
sewn borders by means of a hot smoothing iron in order to flatten them so as to
better press the ribbon and the cloth or other material together.
For the purpose of rendering the operation of bordering easier, shorter, more
regular and ecomonical, I propose to manufacture ribbons, borders or the like in a
folded state with or without a central rib or band, and to this end the said
invention comprises the improvement hereinafter described.
When it it desired to produce with the ordinary loom a ribbon, lace, border,
braid or the like in a folded state, the said ribbon, lace or the like must either
before or after leaving the loom, be passed between two rollers which fold it into.

page_text: two equal or unequal parts, as may be required Prior to passing these two rollers
the ribbon passes a guide which folds it as the two rollers cause it to advance.
The said guide is formed of two arms which are movable with respect to each
other, so that the ribbon may be folded in two equal or unequal parts.
When subsequently sewn in one operation onto the object to be bordered, this
ribbon preserves the impression of a regular fold without its being necessary to pass
it under a hot smoothing iron.
The ribbon folded with a longitudinal rib or band is obtained by either weaving
or by braiding.
In cases where the ribbon is to be manufactured on a loom it is sufficient to
make arrangements for the warp thread in such a manner that in the weaving
operation the thread of the weft passes the warp-threads in every stroke to form
the rib or band whilst it only passes the warp-threads every second stroke to form
the folds. It is easy to understand that, in order to attain this end, it is sufficient
to lift all the warp-threads of one fold while the weft-thread crosses the warp
threads of the other fold and of the rib or band, whilst the whole of the warp-
threads for the latter fold are lifted while the weft thread crosses the warp threads
of the first named fold and of the rib or band. The threads of the weft are
therefore pressed twice as much together to form the rib or band as the threads
which form the folds.
The ribbon or the like having a central ledge may likewise be manufactured on
a braiding machine which I have especially adapted for this purpose.
This machine is composed of thirty-six rolls in three sets revolving on pivots and
arranged on the same circunference around a central vertical axis as in ordinary
machines for producing flat braids.
In order to furnish the threads which are to form the rib or band of the ribbon
I add to the braiding machine supplementary rolls.
Each roll of the first set has two spools which pass from the notches of one roll
to those of the other.
There are four of these notches in the rolls of the first set, five in the rolls of the
third set, three in the rolls of the second set and seven in the supplementary roll.
All the rolls turn on pivots as in the ordinary braiding machine and mutually
transmit to each other the spools, so that the threads of these spools are interlaced
in a proper manner to form the ribbon. All the spools travel in the same
direction.
The rolls are operated by a shaft carrying fixed and loose pulleys. At one end
of this shaft is a bevel wheel in gear with a wheel fixed on the pivot of one of the
rolls of the first set. This pivot transmits the motion to a central wheel by means
of a spur toothed wheel and further to three other wheels. Thus motion is
transmitted to four rolls of the first set which are geared with the rolls of the other
sets by toothed wheels.
A driving wheel arranged on the pivot of the supplementary roll makes this
latter also participate in the rotatory motion of the other rolls.
In this manner all the rolls have the same circumferential velocity.
Two needles take up the threads of the spools appertaining to the rolls of the
third set and the neighbouring rolls, in order to avoid the edges of the ribbon being
entangled.
To the ordinary beater of the flat braiding machines I add a straight sup-
plementary beater which brings the threads close to a trumpet at the centre of the
machine. The threads, coming from the spools of the rolls of the second set and
from the supplementally rolls from the rib or band of the ribbon.
The supplementary beater is connected with the driving mechanism of one of
the beaters in such a manner that it is put in motion in consequence of the
movement of this mechanism and through the medium of a lever.
The motion is imparted to the beaters by an excentric disc secured to a vertical
shaft which receives motion from the gearing of the machine, and acting upon the
lever mechanism.

page_text: All the threads of the spools meet in the trumpet at the end of a support which
may be removed on a guide-bar fixed in the rear of the machine at will, in order
to be capable of placing the trumpet exactly in the centre of the machine.
The said support carries two vertical pins between which the ribbon passes to be
folded, prior to passing onto a small roller.
The ribbon subsequently passes over a step wheel and is rolled onto a reel.
A vertical shaft receives motion from the driving gear of the machine and transmits
it by a screw to a gear wheel on the shaft of the step wheel.
According as the ribbons are to be braided more or less tightly, they are made to
pass over a step of the wheel having a larger or smaller diameter so as to be
advanced with more or less speed.
Guides cause the spools to pass from the several rolls on to the neighbouring
rolls, in the same manner as is the case with the ordinary machines.
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
For the Applicant.

page_text: I, HENRY HARRIS LAKE, of the firm of Haseltine, Lake, & Co, Patent Agents,
Southampton Buildings, in the County of Middlesex do hereby declare the nature
of my invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF RIBBON, BRAID, OR
" and in what manner the same is to be
THE LIKE, AND APPARATUS THEREFOR
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement-
This invention relates to the manufacture of border ribbons, laces or the like in
a folded condition by braiding or weaving, and to apparatus therefor.
Ribbons, braids, laces or the like as heretofore manufactured for ornamenting
and protecting the borders of articles of wearing apparel have a flat shape with
two faces only, an upper and a lower one.
When any article is bordered with these ribbons, it is the custom to secure the
latter either in one operation by stitching through the cloth and the folded ribbon
which is placed around the edge of the said article, or in two operations by first
Bewing one of the edges of the ribbon to the article to be trimmed, then folding
the ribbon around the border of the article, and then sewing the other edge on the
underside.
The
The first mode of bordering presents great difficulty in obtaining regular work,
on account of the seamstress finding it hard work to keep the ribbon folded.
second mode produces more perfect work, but much more time is needed thus
rendering the work more expensive. Whichever of these two modes is made use
of, it is always necessary to press the sewn borders by means of a hot smoothing
iron, in order to flatten them so as to better press the ribbon and the cloth or other
material together.
For the purpose of rendering the operation of bordering easier, shorter, more
regular and economical, I manufacture ribbons, borders or the like directly on the
loom or the braiding machine in a folded state with or without a central rib or
band, and to this end the said invention comprises the improvements hereinafter
described.
In the accompanying drawings
Figures 1 and 2 represent cross-sections of two ribbons thus folded, one having
a rib and the other being without it.
Figures 3 and 4 show in sectional elevation and plan, a machine employed in the
manufacture of folded ribbons having a central rib or band.
Figures 5 and 6 are views hereinafter referred to.
When it is desired to produce, with the ordinary loom, a ribbon, lace, border,
braid or the like in a folded state as shown in figure 1, the said ribbon, lace or the
like must, either before or after leaving the loom, be passed between two smooth
rollers m m, figure 5, which fold it into two equal or unequal parts, as may be
required. Prior to passing these two rollers, the ribbon passes a guide n which
folds it as the two rollers cause it to advance.

page_text: This guide, which is represented in section in figure 6, is formed of two arms
which are movable with respect to each other, so that the ribbon may be folded
into two equal or unequal parts.
When subsequently sewn in one operation on to the article to be bordered, this
ribbon preserves the impression of a regular fold, and of an irreproachable border
without its being necessary to pass it under a hot smoothing iron.
The ribbon folded with a longitudinal rib or band as illustrated in figure 2, is
obtained either by weaving or by braiding.
In cases where the ribbon is to be manufactured on a loom it is sufficient to make
such arrangements that in the weaving operation the thread of the weft passes the
warp-threads in every stroke to form the rib or band a figure 2 whilst it only passes
the warp-threads every second stroke to form the folds b b¹. It is easy to
understand that in order to attain this end, it is sufficient to lift all the warp-
threads of the fold b while the weft-thread crosses the warp-threads of the other
fold band of the rib or band a; whilst the whole of the warp-threads for the
fold bare lifted while the weft thread crosses the warp threads of the fold b and of
the rib or band a. The threads of the weft are therefore pressed twice as much
together in the rib or band a as in the folds b b'.
The ribbons or the like having a central ledge may also be manufactured on a
braiding machine which I have especially adapted for this purpose.
The machine shown in Figures 3 and 4 is composed of thirty six rolls viz
33 rolls A, 1 roll A¹ and 2 rolls A³.
All these rolls rotate on pivots a a and are arranged on the same circumference
around a central vertical axis, as in ordinary machines for producing flat braids.
In order to furnish the threads which are to form the rib or band of the ribbon,
I add to the braiding machine a supplementary roll B adjoining the roll A¹.
Each roll has two spools C which pass from the notches b of one roll to those of
another. There are four of these notches on each of the rolls A five on each of
the rolls A A2, three in the roll A¹ and seven in the supplementary roll B.
All the rolls turn on pivots or shafts a and mutually transmit to each other the
spools C C² to C70 so that the threads c of these spools are interlaced in a proper
manner to form the ribbon.
C163
All the spools travel in the same direction. For instance the spool C¹ starting
from the roll A on the left hand side occupies successively the positions C¹, C³, C7,
C³, C¹¹, C¹³, C¹³, 17, 19, 21, 28, 25, 27, 29, 31, 33, C3, C37 on the rolls A on
the left hand side, after that the positions C30, 40, 41, 38, on the supplementary
roll B, and finally the positions C43, C4, C47, C4, Cai, Cisa, C155, 57, 59, 61, 163,
C167, C6, C71, C73 of the rolls A on the right hand side and the positions C7, C7, of
the roll A³ on the right hand side. In passing back to the roll A3 on the left
hand side, the bobbin occupies successively the positions C7, C7, C70, 68, 68, CS,
C162, C60, C58, C50, C54, 152, C50, C148, C4, C4, C42, 136, 134, 139, 130, 125, 126,
C2C120, C18, C16, C1, C2, C10, C3, C4, C4, C³, C, C¹, returning in this manner from
one extremity of the machine to the other without passing to the supplementary
roll B, as was the case on its passage in the opposite direction.
The rolls are operated by the shaft D carrying fixed and loose pulleys E E. At
one end of this shaft is a bevel-wheel F in gear with the wheel G fixed on the
shaft a of one of the rolls A. This shaft transmits the motion to a central wheel H
by means of a spur-toothed wheel I and further to three wheels II' 1' arranged
at angles of 90° from the wheel I or from each other. Thus motion is transmitted
to four rolls A which are geared with the other rolls A, A, A1, A3 A3 by toothed
wheels J figure 3 arranged on the shafts a and gearing with each other.
A driving wheel arranged on the shaft of the supplementary roll B causes the
latter to participate in the rotatory motion of the other rolls. In this manner all the
rolls A, A A B have the same circumferential velocity.
Two needles L, L take up the theads of the spools appertaining to the rolls A*A*³
and the neighbouring rolls, in order to avoid the edges of the ribbon being
entangled.

page_text: To the ordinary beaters M M of the flat braiding machines. I add a straight
supplementary beater M¹ which brings the threads close at the centre of the
machine to the trumpet N. The threads coming from the spools of the rolls A¹ B,
form the rib or band of the ribbon or braid.
The supplementary beater M is connected with driving mechanism of one of the
beaters M M in such a manner that it is put in motion through the medium of the
lever O.
Motion is imparted to the beaters M M. by an excentric disc P, secured to a
vertical shaft which receives motion from the gearing of the machine, and acting
upon the lever mechanism Q, Q.
All the threads of the spools C¹ 02 to 07 meet in the trumpet N at the end of
the bracket support R which may be displaced at will on the guide bar S fixed in
the rear of the machine in order to enable the trumpet to be placed exactly in the
centre of the machine. The said support R carries two vertical pins between
which the ribbon passes to be folded prior to passing over a small roller s.
The ribbon subsequently passes over a stepped roller T aud is rolled on to the
reel U. A vertical shaft V receives motion from the driving gear of the machine
and transmits it by a worm X to the gear wheel Z on the shaft of the steeped
wheel T.
According as the ribbons Y are to be braided more or less tightly, they are made
to pass over a step of the roller T having a larger or smaller diameter so as to be
advanced with more or less speed.
The guides S cause the spools C¹, C³ to C to pass from the several rolls A, A
to A² A² A¹ B on to the neighbouring rolls, in the same manner as is the case with
the ordinary machines.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that
what I claim is
First The manufacture of border ribbons and laces, with or without central
longitudinal ribs or bands, by braiding or weaving and simultaneously folding.
Second The manufacture of folded ribbons without a central rib or band on
ordinary looms, the latter for this purpose having added to them a guide and two
rollers which fold the ribbon into two equal or unequal parts, as set forth with
reference to figures 5 and 6 of the drawing.
Third The manufacture of a folded ribbon with a central rib or band on ordinary
looms by arranging the beaming device of the warp-threads in such a manner that
in the weaving operation the weft-thread passes the warp-thread at every stroke
to form the rib or band, whilst it passes the warp-thread only every second stroke
to form the two folds.
Fourth The adaptation of the flat-braiding machine, for the manufacture of a
ribbon with a longitudinal rib or band, by the addition of a supplementary roll,
the ribbon being folded directly on the machine by two vertical pins, as described
above with reference to the accompanying drawing.
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