IMPROVEMENTS IN WARP FABRICS, AND I MACHINERY FOR PRODUCING THE SAME
Year: 1864

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Thomas Gamble and Edwin Ellis, both of Notting-
ham, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN WARP FABRICS, AND I
MACHINERY FOR PRODUCING THE SAME."
Sealed the 16th September 1864, and dated the 17th March 1864.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Thomas Gamble and
Edwin Ellis at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with their
Petition, on the 17th March 1864.
We, THOMAS GAMBLE and EDWIN ELLIS, both of Nottingham, do hereby
declare the nature of the Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS. IN WARP FABRICS,
AND IN MACHINERY FOR PRODUCING THE SAME," to be as follows:-
This Invention has for its object improvements in warp fabrics and in
machinery for producing the same.
⚫ Heretofore warp fabrics have in some cases been made consisting of pillars,
each produced by looping continually a single thread so as to make a chain
resembling a line of tambour work, and these pillars have been connected
together into a frabric by other threads which do not loop on themselves, but

page_text: which catch or link first with one pillar and then with another; they may
pass only from one pillar to the next, or they may traverse a greater
distance.
Now our improved fabric is a modification of a fabric such as the above,
from which it differs in that the connecting threads or threads passing from
pillar to pillar have heretofore in each course been made to catch one only of
the three thicknesses of which each looped pillar is composed, whereas we
cause them in each course to catch two of these thicknesses.
This modification is advantageous in several ways. In close work with a
satin-like face, where in each course the connecting threads are carried
sideways over two or more pillars, and on the face of the work float over the
pillars intermediate of those with which they catch, the back of the fabric
has heretofore exhibited the pillars as heavy ribs, this defect arising from the
connecting threads catching only one of the three thicknesses of each pillar
and leaving the other two on the back of the work. In our improved fabric
from the connecting threads catching two of the three thicknesses of each
pillar it results that this ribbed appearance is to a great extent got rid of,
the back of the fabric resembling the front, except that the connecting threads
do not at the back of the fabric float over and entirely clear of the pillars
intermediate of those with which they catch, but the connecting threads are
held down to these intermediate pillars by a single thickness of the pillar
passing over them. In open work, where the connecting threads do not
traverse at each course, but only from time to time, and then not necessarily,
a greater distance than from one pillar to the next, the pillars in our
improved fabric resemble more closely those of a twist lace fabric than do the
pillars of such fabrics as heretofore produced in the warp machine; this
results from the connecting threads when not traversing at every course
catching with or twisting around two of the three thicknesses of its pillar in
place of one only as heretofore; this gives to the pillar much more nearly the
appearance of a true twisted pillar.
The machinery which we employ for producing our improved fabric consists
of one set or row of needles or instruments with eyes fixed to a needle bar and
through the eye of each needle passes a thread to form one of the. looped
pillars. When the work is on the stems of the needles, points, or instruments
at the front of the work catch the thread of each needle, and having carried
it sideways, rise up or pass between it and the needle, the needle then retires,
leaving a loop of its thread upon the points or instruments, of which there are
two for each needle. Afterwards, in order to open the loop, one of the points
or instruments on which it is formed moves sideways, whilst the other. remains

page_text: stationary. The needle then having drawn out of the work and dropped the
old loop passes through the new loop opened for it. The points or instru-
ments which held this loop then retire out of it and leave it on the needle, and
by the repetition of these movements the pillars are produced. The threads to
connect up or link together these pillars to make a fabric are carried by
guides, and each time that new loops are formed as above described the con-
necting threads are (by means of their guides, assisted usually by interceptors),
each carried over and under or around one, two, three, or more of the loops,
according to the nature of the work or of the pattern. The connecting
threads laid on in this manner become secured when the loops of the next
course are passed through those around which the connecting threads have
been laid. When the work goes on to the stems or backs of the needles it
also passes over points, of which there is one to each needle. These points, in
order to receive the loops of the work, lay in grooves formed for them in the
needle stems, and then they move away from the needles so as to open the
loops and beat up tight the work already produced.. The beating up or
tightening of the work is also in part effected by the points or instruments
which receive and open the new loops for the needles to pass. through, for
whilst the needle is out of the work, in addition to the sideway movement
which these points or instruments make for opening the loops the bars which
carry them separate from each other so as to extend the loops by drawing up
the slack of the threads out of the fabric as far as it will come. In the
stem. of each needle there is made (in addition to the groove for the beating
up point) a longitudinal channel leading up to the eye, and in this the thread
lays as it passes from the warp beam or bobbin to the eye of the needle, and
the depth of the channel is such that the thread may lay in it without being
bound by the loops of the work when they are upon the stems of the
needles. This improvement is applicable in other warp machines in which
similar needles are employed.
This machine in making a fabric, such as that herein-before referred to, is
more rapid in its operation than an ordinary warp machine because the
connecting threads can be carried to and fro at each ordinary course, whereas
in the ordinary warp machine they can make one motion only. The machine
is also rapid in its work on account of the shortness of the several motions it
has to make. In combination with this machine extra threads and guides
may be used in addition to those necessary to the production of the ground
fabric as above described, and these extra guides may be made to lay or work
their threads into the fabric to ornament it as may be required. Threads may
also be laid in at intervals from.side to side of the machine as is now practised,

page_text: and in parts of the fabric these inlaid threads may form the sole connections
between the pillars, so as to produce an open network with rectangular holes,
and at other parts of the fabric the holes may be filled up by causing the
connecting threads to traverse as already described. If desired also the needle
bar may have a shogging motion given to it, so that each needle in place of
passing the new loop which it is making through the old loop of the same
needle thread may pass it through the old loop of the thread of the next or
another needle. When the machine is thus arranged the needle threads will
produce a ground fabric without the assistance of connecting threads, and
this ground fabric may be ornamented by threads laid or worked into it by
means of guides.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Thomas Gamble and Edwin Ellis in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 17th September 1864.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, THOMAS
GAMBLE and EDWIN ELLIS, both of Nottingham, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Seventeenth day of March, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-four, in the twenty-seventh year
of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto
us, the said Thomas Gamble and Edwin Ellis, Her special licence that
we, the said Thomas Gamble and Edwin Ellis, our executors, adminis-
trators, and assigns, or such others as we, the said Thomas Gamble and
Edwin Ellis, our executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time
agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter
during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use,
exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland,
the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
WARP FABRICS, AND IN MACHINERY FOR PRODUCING THE SAME," upon the condition
(amongst others) that we, the said Thomas Gamble and Edwin Ellis, our
executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under our or their
hands and seals, or under the hand and seal of one of us or them, should
particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in
what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed
in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and
immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.

page_text: NOW KNOW YE; that we, the said Thomas. Gamble and Edwin Ellis, do
hereby declare the nature of the said. Invention, and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in. and.
by the following statement thereof, that is to say:-
This Invention has for- its object improvements in warp fabrics and in
machinery for producing the same. .
Heretofore warp fabrics have in some cases been made consisting of pillars,
each produced by looping continually a single thread so as to make a chain
resembling a line of tambour work, and these pillars have been connected.
together into a fabric by other threads of which do not loop on themselves but
which catch or link first with one pillar and then with another, they may pass
only from one pillar to the next or a greater distance.
.Now our improved fabric is a modification of a fabric such as the above,
from which it differs in that the connecting threads or threads passing from.
pillar to pillar have heretofore in each course been made to catch one only. of
the three thicknesses of which each looped pillar is composed, whereas we
cause them in each course to catch two of these thicknesses.
This modification is advantageous in several ways. In close work with a.
satin-like face, where in each course the connecting threads are carried
sideways over two or more pillars, and on the face of the work float over the
pillars intermediate of those with which they catch, the back of the fabric
has heretofore exhibited the pillars as heavy ribs, this defect arising from the
connecting threads catching only one of the three thicknesses of each pillar.
and leaving the other two on the back of the work. In our improved fabric.
from the connecting threads catching two of the three thicknesses of each
pillar it results that this ribbed appearance is to a great extent got rid of, the;
back of the fabric resembling the front, except that the connecting threads do.
not at the back of the fabric float over and entirely clear of the pillars inter-.
mediate of those with which they catch, but the conuecting threads are held.
down to these intermediate pillars by a single, thickness of the pillar passing.
over: them. In open work, where the connecting. threads do not traverse at
each course, but only from time to time, and then not necessarily a greater,
distance: than from one pillar to the next, the pillars in our improved fabrio,
resemble more closely those of a twist lace fabric than do the pillars of such.
fabrics as heretofore produced in the warp machine; this results from the
connecting threads when not traversing at every course catching with or
twisting around two of the three thicknesses of its pillar in place of one only
as heretofore; this gives to the pillar much more nearly the appearance of a
true twisted pillar.

page_text: The machinery which we employ for producing our improved fabric consists
of one set or row of needles or instruments with eyes fixed to a needle bar,
and through the eye of each needle passes a thread to form one of the looped
pillars. When the work is on the stems of the needles, points or instruments
at the front of the work catch the thread of each needle, and having carried it
sideways rise up or pass between it and the needle; the needle then retires,
leaving a loop of its thread upon the points or instruments, of which there are
two for each needle; afterwards, in order to open the loop, one of the points
or instruments on which it is formed moves sideways, whilst the other remains
stationary; the needle then having drawn out of the work and dropped, the
old loop passes through the new loop opened for it, the points or instruments
which held this loop then retire out of it and leave it on the needle, and by the
repitition of these movements the pillars are produced. The threads to
connect up or link together these pillars to make a fabric are carried by
guides, and each time that new loops are formed as above described the con-
necting threads are (by means of their guides, assisted usually by interceptors)
each carried over and under or around one, two, three, or more of the loops,
according to the nature of the work or of the pattern. The connecting threads
laid on in this manner become secured when the loops of the next course are
passed through those around which the connecting threads have been laid.
When the work goes on to the stems or backs of the needles it also passes
over points, of which there is one to each needle; these points, in order to
receive the loops of the work, lie in grooves formed for them in the needle
stems, and then they move away from the needles so as to open the loops and
beat up tight the work already produced. The beating up or tightening of
the work is also in part effected by the points or instruments which receive
and open the new loops for the needles to pass through, for whilst the needle
is out of the work, in addition to the sideway movement which these points or
instruments make for opening the loops, the bars which carry them separate
from each other so as to extend the loops by drawing up the slack of the
threads out of the fabric as far as it will come. In the stem of each needle
there is made (in addition to the groove for the beating up point) a longitudinal
channel leading up to the eye, and in this the thread lies as it passes from the
warp beam or bobbin to the eye of the needle, and the depth of the channel
is such that the thread may lie in it without being bound by the loops of the
work when they are upon the stems of the needles.
This machine in making a fabric, such as that herein-before referred to, is
more rapid in its operation than an ordinary warp machine, because the con-
necting threads can be carried to and fro at each ordinary course, whereas in

page_text: the ordinary warp machine they can make one motion only. The machine is
also rapid in its work on account of the shortness of the several motions it has
to make. In combination with this machine extra threads and guides may
be used in addition to those necessary to the production of the ground fabric,
as above described, and these extra guides may be made to lay or work their
threads into the fabric to ornament it as may be required. Threads may also
be laid in at intervals from side to side of the machine as is now practised,
and in parts of the fabric these inlaid threads may form the sole connections
between the pillars so as to produce an open network with rectangular holes,.
and at other parts of the fabric the holes may be filled up by causing the
connecting threads to traverse as already described. If desired also the
needle bar may have a shogging motion given to it, so that each needle, in
place of passing the new loop which it is making through the old loop of the
same needle thread, may pass it through the old loop of the thread of the next
or another needle; when the machine is thus arranged the needle threads will
produce a ground fabric without the assistance of connecting threads, and
this ground fabric may be ornamented by threads laid or worked into it by
means of guides.
Having thus stated the nature of our Invention we will now proceed to
describe the accompanying Drawings and refer to the figures and letters

page_text: manner as to extend the loops, and by doing so draw or tighten up the work.
The requisite movement of this point bar is obtained in the following manner;
f is a cam, shewn separately at Figure 10, which acts upon a truck f¹ carried
by the leverf. The lever f³ moves on a centre f³; another lever f is con
nected to the lever fa by a link f³. The lever f' is affixed to the axis fe, to
which is also affixed the back point bar, as shewn in the Drawing. The points,
in addition to this movement up and down, have an in-and-out movement
imparted to them in the following manner :-g is a cam, shewn separately at
Figure 11, which, acting on a truck g₁ carried by a lever g³, causes that lever
to vibrate on the spindle bar ³. The upper end of the lever g³ carries the
the axis fe to which the back point bar is affixed, hence a to-and-fro move-
ment is also given to that bar. Other points, A and B, are also employed,
which, when the work is on the stems of the needles (and has been operated
on by the back points, as already described,) enter between the threads which
extend back and incline downwards from the under side of the eyes of the
needles, as will be clearly seen on referring to Diagram, Figure 2. These
points having entered between the threads, they then move sideways to the
right one gait or space, they afterwards rise between the needles and the
needles retire, leaving the new loops upon the points A and B, which up to
this time are one behind the other, and have acted as if each pair of points
A and B were one point. The loops of the previous course are left on the
back points by the retiring of the needles. The two rows of points A and B
then separate in order to open out the loops and thereby tighten up the work.
These movements of the points A and B are obtained as follows:-h is a cam,
shewn separately at Figure 17; h¹ is a truck on a lever h². The lever h
works on the spindle bar d³, and the bar of the points B is affixed at h³ to the
lever h³, while the bar of the points A is fixed to a spindle bar h* carried by
the lever h. Thus it will be seen that although the bars A and B necessarily
rise and fall together, yet the bar of the points A can, in addition thereto,.
move on the spindle h* independently of the bar of the points B; this move-
ment of the bar of points A is obtained from the cam i, shewn separately at
Figure 16, which acts on the truck it of the lever is attached to the axis h*, by
which the lever of the points A is moved on that axis. The points A and B,
have likewise an endwise movement imparted to them by means of cams or
lace wheels placed at the right-band end of the machine. The guides which
carry the connecting, or figuring, or ornamenting threads, are worked as
follows:-They move in and out, upwards and downwards, and laterally.
Their movement in and out, or to and fro, is obtained from the cam j, shewn
separately at Figure 14; j¹ is the truck of the lever j³, which is caused by

page_text: the cam to move on the spindle j³, the guide-bar. arm j being connected to
the spindle bar j³, and it being carried by the lever the to-and-fro move-,
ment is obtained. The up-and-down movement of the guides is effected by,
means of the cam k, shown separately at Figure 15, which acts upon the,
truck k' of the lever , by which that lever is caused to move on its spindle:
or axis, the lever at its one end being connected to the arm k by the:
link ks, and the arm being fixed to the spindle.", the guides are caused to,
be moved up and down. The endwise or lateral movement of the guides.is.
obtained by, cams or lace wheels arranged at the right-hand end of the machine.,
In this machine, in order to prevent a too sudden action upon the needle
threads or warps, we prefer to arrange the warp beam so that a to-and-fro;
movement is given to it. For this purpose the cam 1, Figure 9, is caused to.
act upon the truck 1 of the lever 12; which causes that lever to rock upon the
spindle bar e, and the lever 13 at its upper end being connected to the axis of
the warp roller by the connecting links a to-and-fro motion is given to,
warp beam; cis a, cam, shown separately at Figure 8, which acts, upon,
the
the truck c¹ of the lever, c³, and it, by means of the link c³ connected therewith.
and to another lever c on the spindle bar cacts. so as to cause the inter-
ceptors to move up and down; d is cam, shown separately at Figure 13,
which also gives motion to the interceptors co, causing them to move to and,
fro. This movement is effected in the following manner:-d' is a truck acted,
upon by the cam'd, shown separately at Figure 13, it is carried by a lever d
working on a spindle bar-d³, the opposite end of the lever d² is, by a link.d
connected to an arm d³ affixed to a bar do, and this. bar de is connected to a
spindle bar d' by the pieces d³. The spindle bar d' is carried by the levers of
as shown in the Drawing at Figure 1. The interceptors, in addition to the
up-and-down and the to-and-fro movement just described, have likewise a move...
ment imparted to them at proper. intervals by a cam or lace wheel; placed at.
the right-hand end of the machine, as herein-after described. In order to..
prevent the warp threads from delivering too freely friction is employed by
passing a band, as is well understood, around a pulley at the end of the warp
beam and by affixing the ends of the band, to the links 13, as shown in the.,
Drawings..
:
Figure 18 shows a view of the right-hand end of the machine upon a
smaller scale. a is the cam shaft,. upon which at that end of the machine
is mounted a bevilled toothed wheel m, which takes into and gears with
another. bevilled toothed wheel n on the vertical axis o; cams or lace wheels,
p, q, r, s, are mounted upon the axis o, and they respectively give the
lateral or endwise movement to the bars of their respective instruments...

page_text: The cam or lace wheel p gives the requisite motion to shog the bar that
carries the interceptors ; it acts upon the truck p', carried by the lever p²,
causing that lever to move upon its centre or pin p³ and the spindle bar
d', to which the blocks de are attached, carries the bar de, to which the
interceptor combs are affixed, so that when the lever p³ is moved by the
lace wheel or cam p the interceptor combs, and consequently the interceptors
carried thereby, will also be moved by the lace wheel or camp in con-
sequence of the projection p pushing against the end of the bar ds, the
bar de being always kept up to the cam surface or wheel p by means of a
spring not shewn in the Drawing. The cam or wheel q by acting upon
the truck q' carried by the lever g³, is caused to act in a similar manner
by its projection upon the end of the guide bar to shog 'the guides.
The cam or wheel r, by acting in a similar manner upon the truck of
the lever, causes the projection to press upon the end of the spindle h
of the point bar A, and give thereto the necessary lateral motion. The
cam or wheels by acting upon the truck s¹ of the lever causes the
projection to act upon the point bar B, so as to give to it the requisite
lateral movement. The wheels or cams p, q, r, s, and their trucks are
kept in contact by springs not shown. The trucks of the various cams
on the cam shaft a are also all kept in contact therewith by springs not
shewn in the Drawing, but which is well understood.
Having now described all the various motions of the instruments, and
having in the Drawings given the cams and wheels suitable for giving such
motions, we will proceed to describe the working of a course, and in doing
so we will refer to the diagrams marked Figures 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, and 7.
In Figure 2 the instruments are in the positions they occupy when the
work has been moved back on the stems of the needles and over the back
points by the interceptors and after the loops have been opened out by the
back points in order to tighten the work, and that the front points A and B
(which have by this time returned to their original position) may enter
between the threads which incline and extend from below the eyes of the
needles to the work. The interceptors are down between the stems of the
needles, and hold the work upon the back points; the needles then move
slightly back, and the points A and B rise slowly between the threads, and
having done so they commence to move laterally, and they then rise between
the needles whilst the needles continue to retire, by which the loops slip off
the needles on to the back points, as hereafter described. The interceptors
rise out from the position they previously occupied between the needles, and
move towards the front of the machine, and also half a gait or space to the

page_text: right hand, their lower ends passing between the guides: The jacquard or
pattern surface causes such of the interceptors to rise as are required to form
the pattern. The guides move towards the front of the machine; but only to
a very slight extent. Simultaneously with the ends of the interceptors
entering between the guides, the guides themselves move laterally to the right
hand, and in doing so press against such of the interceptors as have not been
selected by the jacquard or pattern apparatus, by which a greater amount of
lateral movement is given to such of the guides as have no interceptors
between them to intercept their movement, thus causing such of the guide or
connecting threads partly to lap round the loops on the points A, B, of the
next pillars, whilst the guides which are intercepted by the interceptors only
lap partly around the loops of their own pillars. The guides and the inter-
ceptors them move forwards together slightly, and arrive at the position shown
by Diagram Figure 3, where the needles are shown to be only partly with-
drawn. The needles continue to withdraw until they have done so to their
fullest extent, leaving the loops of the previous course, as before stated, on the
back points. The front points A and B rise to their fullest extent, and
separate from each other by the movement of the bar of points A ; the
points B then move one gait or space to the left hand, thus opening out the
loops for the needles to enter them. The guides move first in such a manner
as to relieve themselves from the side pressure of the interceptors, and they
move away towards the front of the machine, so as to be free from the inter-
ceptors. The interceptors which were selected descend, and a fresh selection
takes place, by preference by a double lift jacquard apparatus. The inter-
ceptors move slightly forwards and also downwards, by which such of them as
have not been selected come into position ready to enter between the guide
or connecting threads, as shown in Diagram Figure 4. The needles advance
until they arrive in line with the front points A. The back points move away
from the under side of the needles, they still holding the work. The points
A and B descend slightly, and whilst doing so they move somewhat towards
the needles, the points A and B still holding the loops open for the needles to
enter them. Such of the interceptors as were not selected descend between
the connecting threads and the guide bar commences to move to the left
hand.
i
These positions of the instruments are shown in Diagram Figure 5. The
needles move forward, and pass through the loops held open by the front
points A and B, by which the needle or warp threads secure the connecting
threads to the pillars round which they are nearly lapped. The back points
withdraw from the work and enter the grooves formed for them in the under

page_text: sides of the needles. The points A and B approach, each other, and move
downwards. and towards the back of the machine, by which they assist in
sliding the work on to the stems of the needles and over the back points;
the guides at the same time move to the left hand, so that when the jacquard
apparatus allows the selected interceptors to fall between their connecting
threads, such selected interceptors secure such threads in position to float
over the pillars. The interceptors also move half a space to the left hand in
order to allow them to enter between the needles; this position of the instru-.
ments is represented in Diagram Figure 6. The jacquard apparatus at this
time changes its card to be ready to make the next two selections; the.
needles move forwards to their fullest extent; the back points move forwards.
with them, such points still remaining in the grooves of the needles.. The
front points A and B. descend still further and withdraw from the needles,
leaving the loops, previously. on such points on the needles. The guides move
upward also towards the back of the machine, and also towards the. right
hand, thus passing the connecting: threads, around the selected interceptors
and partly round the unselected interceptors and between the needles. The
interceptors move backwards between, the needles, and in so doing move. back:
the work on to the stems of the needles, causing it also to slide over the back
points. This position of the instruments is shown in Diagram Figure 7.
When using transverse inlaid threads from side to side of the machine,
such threads are passed across the machine, as is well understood, but at the
time the instruments are. in positions indicated by Diagram Figure 2, extra.
or ornamenting threads may be used when desired to ornament the work
produced according to this Invention,, in like manner to that in which other
warp fabrics have been heretofore ornamented. When the needle is arranged
to be shogged, in order that the loop produced by one needle may have the new
loop of another passed through it, the shogging motion takes place when the
needles are in position indicated in Diagram Figure 4, whereby a ground
fabric would be formed by the needle or warp threads only, and what are
called connecting threads in the above description would then act as floating
threads on the ground, fabric, such floating threads. being laid on according to
pattern, as may be desired..
Having thus described the nature of our Invention, and the manner of
performing the same, we would have it understood that we make no claim to
any of the mechanical parts separately, nor do we confine ourselves in pro-
ducing the peculiar fabrics herein described to the combined arrangement of
mechanism herein explained; but we claim,-
First, the manufacture of the peculiar warp fabrics herein described.

page_text: And, secondly, we claim the combination of machinery herein described
for producing warp fabrics.
In witness whereof, we, the said Thomas Gamble and Edwin Ellis,
have hereunto set our hands and seals, this Ninth day of September,
in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-four.