A New or Improved Adjustable Apparatus or Instrument for Drafting Bodices, Jackets, and like Garments, or Patterns for same.
Year: 1896

page_text: Date of Application, 1st May, 1896
Complete Specification Left, 1st Feb.; 1897-Accepted, 20th Mar., 1897
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
A New or Improved Adjustable Apparatus or Instrument for
Drafting Bodices, Jackets, and like Garments, or Patterns for
same.
I, MARTHA ANN FITTON of Cliffe Hill, Shelley near Huddersfield, Yorkshire,
Dress Cutter do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention has reference to the drafting of ladies or childrens dresses or dress
bodices, jackets or like garments or articles of clothing to fit the figure, or patterns
for same, and consists of a new or improved apparatus or instrument constructed
to give a correct and accurate delineament or outline, proportionate to the measure-
ments taken from the figure, of ladies or childrens dresses or dress bodices, or other
well fitting garments, and which is adjustable in its various parts and adapted to
be graduated to any required measurements throughout to vary or alter the outline
or configuration and size by reduction or enlargement in conformity with and
proportionate to such measurements, whereby for any set of measurements to which
the several parts may be adjusted and fixed an outline correctly corresponding in
admeasurement thereto is obtained; a second guiding surface or configuration
being also given by which the margin of material for seaming purposes can be
marked off from each outline.
The object of my invention is to provide means at once simple, accurate, and
easy of manipulation for enabling bodices, jackets or like garments to be drafted
direct on to the lining or material to the exact shape and ineasurements required
whereby fitting of same is unnecessary, and the complicated calculations and
preparatory planning on paper necessary in the scientific systems now in vogue as
also the liability to make mistakes in the calculations, are avoided.
In carrying out my said invention, I construct the device or instrument of brass
or other suitable metal or hard material or substance of sufficient thickness to
form a guide for a pencil or marker and made or built up in sections or segments
so arranged as to give the outline or configuration of each different portion of
ladies and childrens bodices or like garments to fit the figure, the outer segments
or sections comprising straight edges some being at right angles, and curvilinear
edges of varying radius, which serve for such parts, say, as the front, neck, shoulder,
armhole, back and hip, while the remaining sections or segments are arranged
cross wise and transversely within the space bounded by the aforesaid sections and
comprise other straight and curvilinear edges to serve for such parts say as the
waist, bust, under the arms, and any others there may be.
The said sections or segments are suitably connected one to the other and are
all adjustable so as to be adapted to slide one within the other, or telescopically,
or one over the other, slots being cut in them to afford endwise, or lateral or angular
or curved movement to the desired extents, and small nuts and screws or equivalent
fastenings provided to secure the segments in any position to which they may
be moved. Should the segments be made to slide in grooves or ways in their
neighbouring segments the slots may not be necessary and they may be nipped
together or held in position by screws, clamps pins or catches, or if made to fit
tightly and accurately the fastenings may be dispensed with or used only when
hecessary.

page_text: The segments are divided to suit any system of measurement, by scales annexed
thereto or stamped on same and provided with marks or divisions corresponding or
bearing relation to the measurements of the figure, some being marked full size,
aud some, say, a fourth and a half thereof, according as the particular portion of the
dress or bodice it has relation to is made up in two four or other number of pieces,
and each segment is lettered to denote its corresponding part of the bodice, and
marks are also made to indicate the position of what are known as the "darts" or
cuts usually made in the bodice.
The measurements of the figure are taken in the ordinary way and each section
or segment of the instrument is then adjusted to the same or corresponding figures
of measurement marked on the scale on said sections and secured, the extent of
movement and the position and configuration of the segments co-operating as a
whole to determine and form a guide, pattern, or instrument accurately following
in dimension and outline the figure measured and which can be laid on the lining
or material and the outline or outlines marked thereon by means of a pencil or
marker; or the outlines may be drafted on a sheet of paper or cardboard if a pattern
is required.
The straight and curvilinear edges or segments are made to a certain width or
gauge so that whilst one edge or side gives the outline of the dress or bodice for
cutting out, the other or opposite edge or side gives the outline or margin for the
seams.
By means of the apparatus or instrument above described a saving of time,
labour and material is effected, and a perfect fit can be obtained by persons
practically unskilled in the art of dress making; no calculations have to be made,
and the exact outline for any set of measurements is ensured by the adjustment of
the several segments or parts to the figures or marks on the scales corresponding to
the measurements for each part of the figure.
Dated this 29th day of April 1896.
TASKER & CROSSLEY,
Huddersfield, Agents for Applicant.
A New or Improved Adjustable Apparatus or Instrument for
Drafting Bodices, Jackets, and like Garments, or Patterns for
same.
I, MARTHA ANN FITTON, of Cliffe Hill, Shelley, near Huddersfield, Yorkshire,
Dress Cutter, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement :-
This invention has reference to the drafting of ladies or childrens dresses or
dress bodices, jackets or like garments or articles of clothing to fit the figure, or
patterns for same, and consists of a new or improved apparatus or instrument
constructed to give a correct and accurate delineament or outline, proportionate to
the measurements taken from the figure of ladies or childrens dresses or dress
bodies, or other well fitting garments, and which is adjustable in its various parts
and adapted to be graduated to any required measurements throughout to vary or
alter the outline or configuration and size by reduction or enlargement in conformity
with and proportionate to such measurements, whereby for any set of measurements
to which the several parts may be adjusted and fixed an outline correctly
corresponding in admeasurement thereto is obtained; a second guiding surface
or configuration being also given by which the margin of material for seaming
purposes can be marked off from each outline.

page_text: The object of my invention is to provide means at once simple accurate, and
easy of manipulation for enabling bodices, jackets or like garments to be drafted
direct on to the lining or material, to the exact shape and measurements required,
whereby fitting of same is unnecessary, and the complicated calculations and
preparatory planning on paper necessary in the scientific systems now in vogue, as
also the liability to make mistakes in the calculations, are avoided.
In carrying out my said invention, I construct the device or instrument of brass
or other suitable metal or hard material or substance of sufficient thickness to form
a guide for a pencil or marker and made or built up in sections or segments so
arranged as to give the outline or configuration of each different portion of ladies
and childrens bodices or like garments to fit the figure, the outer segments or
sections comprising straight edges some being at right angles and curvilinear edges
of varying radius which serve for such parts, say, as the front, neck, shoulder,
armhole, back and hip, while the remaining sections or segments are arranged
cross wise and transversely within the space bounded by the aforesaid sections and
comprise other straight and curvilinear edges to serve for such parts, say, as the
waist, bust, under the arms and any others there may be. The said sections or
segments are suitably connected one to the other and are all adjustable so as to be
adapted to slide one within the other or telescopically, or one over the other, slots
being cut in them to afford end wise or lateral or angular or curved movement to
the desired extents and small nuts and screws or equivalent fastenings provided to
secure the segments in any position to which they may be moved. Should the
segments be made to slide in grooves or ways in their neighbouring segments the
slots may not be necessary and they may be nipped together or held in position
by screws clamps pins or catches, or if made to fit tightly and accurately the
fastenings may be dispensed with or used only when necessary.
The segments are divided to suit any system of measurement, by scales annexed
thereto or stamped on same and provided with marks or divisions corresponding
or bearing relation to the measurements of the figure, some being marked full size,
and some, say a half, fourth or other fraction thereof according as the particular
portion of the dress or bodice it has relation to is made up in two four or other
number of pieces, and each segment is lettered to denote its corresponding part of
the bodice, and marks are also made to indicate the position of what are known as
the "darts or cuts usually made in the bodice.
"
The measurements of the figure are taken in the ordinary way and each section
or segment of the instrument is then adjusted to the same or corresponding figures
of measurement marked on the scale on said sections and secured, the extent of
movement and the position and configuration of the segments co-operating as a
whole to determine and form a guide, pattern, or instrument accurately following
in dimension and outline the figure measured and which can be laid on the lining
or material and the outline or outlines marked thereon by means of a pencil or
marker; or the outlines may be drafted on a sheet of paper or cardboard if a
pattern is required.
The straight and curvilinear edges or segments are made to a certain width or
gauge so that whilst one edge or side gives the outline of the dress or bodice for
cutting out, the other or opposite edge or side gives the outline or margin for the
seams.
In order that my said invention may be more fully described and ascertained
reference is hereinafter had to the sheet of drawings appended hereunto and
forming a part of this specification, in which :-
Fig. 1 shews my improved drafting instrument or chart drawn out almost to its
full limit.
Fig. 2, illustrates, on a reduced scale, the patterns of the portions of a bodice
drafted on a piece of paper or lining by the said chart.
Fig. 3, is view of one side of a straight edge employed in conjunction with the
chart for minor measurements and odd purposes in drafting, and
Fig. 4 is view of the reverse side thereof.

page_text: Referring to Fig. 1 letters A, A1, represent the under arm and front portion
respectively of the front edge or breast of the bodice, B the neck, C, C, the
shoulder, D the armhole, E the underarm and F, F1, the waist, the whole
comprising a framework or structure designed after the pattern of the front
portion or section of a bodice.
The front, shoulder and waist portions are each composed of two pieces or sections
for the purpose of adjustment, these being held together by clamps, studs, screws
or other like means a secured to said parts A, A', C and F and passing through
slots in the parts A, A, C, F1, which admit of such parts being slided one over the
other to increase or reduce the lengths or measurements of the front, shoulder and
waist portions to the degrees required. For adjusting the chart at the bust, two
sections or pieces G, G, iare employed one being connected to front underarm
portion A and the other to the top of the rear underarm portion E, said sections
being held together by stud b secured to part G and passing through a slot in
part G', by which adjustment is permitted.
Within the before described framework are arranged other parts by which the
whole sections of which a bodice is composed are completed, these comprising the
straight part H; attached at top and bottom to the parts G and F respectively and
serving for drafting one of the side pieces and the straight edge of the other
side piece the curved segment I, attached to the upper end of said straight piece H
and giving the curve for drafting the armhole to the back portions of the bodice;
and the curved segment J secured at its lower end by stud c passing through a slot
in the waist part F, and at its upper end by stud d passing through a slot in the
segment I so that it can be adjusted bodily to right or left, said curved segment J.
giving the curved outline of the back sections of the bodice.
On each of the parts comprising the chart I mark or attach scales of measure-
ment, those on the parts A, J, H, E and C being in inches, and those on the other
parts in halves, fourths and sixths, or eighths, thereof, according as the said parts
represent a half, fourth sixth, or eighth, of a complete bodice, or of a whole
measurement of which it forms only a fraction, and on each scale numerals are
affixed or marked representing the measurements for which the chart is constructed
to serve.
On the front underarm portion A are two scales, both marked in inches, the
lower scale e being for the underarm measurements and coinciding with the scales
on the parts J, H and E, and the upper scale f for the front length or
measurement.
In drafting the front portion of the bodice, shewn in diagram M, Fig. 2, the
underarm measurement is first taken, and assuming this to be eight inches, a mark
is made on the paper or lining, on which the chart is laid, exactly opposite the
figure 8 on scale e on front part A, and another mark opposite the 8 on the scale
of the part E so that a line subsequently drawn between said marks will give
the line of waist. The front length of the bodice is obtained by adding to the
measurement for under arm, in this case 8 inches, a number which will give the
front measurement, that is to say, supposing the said front measurement to be
12 inches, the addition of 4 to under arm length will give the total required
and therefore by adjusting the front portion A so that the lower end thereof
coincides with 4 on the scale f on part A the front length of the bodice is
obtained.
The neck portion may be same size as part B, but, if smaller, the measure-
ment is marked off the scale g thereon. The shoulder is adjusted to the
measurement taken by moving the part C or C¹ until the end of part C coincides
with the corresponding measurement marked on the scale. The size of the
armhole, if less than the full length of part D, is marked off from the scale
thereon according to measurement. For the bust and waist measures, the parts F
and G are adjusted to bring the ends thereof opposite the numbers or figures on
the scales marked on parts F and G₁ respectively, which represent the measure-
ments for the bust and waist after deducting the measurements for back portions

page_text: of bodice. The chart being now adjusted to the measurements taken, a line is
drawn from the mark made opposite 8 on scale e on part A all round on the
outside or edge of the chart to the second mark opposite 8 on the scale on part E,
and then a line is drawn on the inner side or edge of the chart commencing at the
neck and terminating at the waist line, as indicated in dotted line, this inner line
being the sewing line, and the outer one the cutting line. The chart is now
pushed forward to bring the edges of the waist portions F, F, in line with marks
first made opposite the figures 8 on the under arm scales, and a line drawn across
to connect them completes the pattern with the exception of the darts and hip or
skirt portion, the latter of which can be obtained by measuring below the waist
line with the parts A, A', as for the front length, marking off the width of hip,
and using the dart curve on straight edge to draft the line from waist to hip, four
inches below the waist.
To draft the darts or breast pleats, of which one is shewn at in diagram M,
Fig. 2, the end of the straight edge is placed on the front line of the pattern M
and dots marked off on the waist line opposite one of the figures on each of the two
Ecales k, l, on the straight edge (Fig. 4,) which is then turned at right angles and
put even with the equivalent numbers on the dart scales k, l, on part G at lines
being drawn up from waist line at the angle thus given and the length of darts
marked off on same. Dots are made three quarters of an inch on each side of
these lines at the waist, and the dart curve on the straight edge (Figs. 3 and 4) is
is then used to draw the curves from the dots at waist to the height of the dart
lines, the straight edge being reversed to give the opposing curves. To continue
the darts below the waist the centre line is extended four inches downward and
dots marked off half an inch on each side from which to the ends of the curved
lines at the waist are drawn straight lines by the use of the straight edge.
At the end of the curved segment I is a scale for measurement of the back
portion of the armhole.
For the back portion of the bodice shewn in diagram N, Fig. 2, the back length
is marked off in the same manner as the front length by the parts A, A', of the
chart, the difference in measurement, of course, being allowed for, and the neck is
marked off to the figure on the scale A, on neck portion B, corresponding with the
neck measurement. The width of shoulder from neck, and the lower edge of
waist are then marked off, the size of back measurement of waist being fixed by
the scale or numerals 1, 2, 3 on straight edge (Fig. 4). From the edge of front
portion and 5 inches below the neck is marked off the width of the back, or say
half the width, and the curved part J placed with the figure 8 on the scale opposite
the back size marked off on the waist line. The top of the curve J which is
moved to the rear end of slot in segment I and to the front end of slot in part F is
now placed at the back width marked on the paper or lining and moved round
until the armhole scale bisects the width of shoulder when the size thereof is
marked off and the curved portion of armhole and back then drafted by drawing
lines down each side of the two said curved parts, the shoulder being afterwards
completed by drawing a line from neck to top of armhole. To draft below the
waist, the back line is continued down 4 inches below waist line, a dot being made
half an inch out from it and connected to waist by a straight line. Two inches
from said dot in the opposite direction is made a second dot from which a line is
drawn to the curved side of the back section.
The size at waist for the back of bodice must be drafted according to fashion.
If any other number, not marked on scale 1, 2, 3 on straight edge (Fig. 4) be
used, this must be allowed for in measurements for the side piece at waist
and hip.
The underarm side portious shewn at o and p in Fig. 2 which comprise the
section of bodice between the front and back portions already described, are
drafted by marking round the parts J, H and I and H, E, which are adjusted to
measurements on the scale, coinciding, say, as to one sixth of the whole
measurements of the bodice taken from the person.

page_text: Instead of the parts being adjusted as shewn and described they may be made to
slide one within the other or in grooves or ways somewhat after the manner of a
slide rule, or any other method of and means for adjusting the parts and securing
them after adjustment can be adopted.
The method of adjustment may also vary according to the metal or material of
which the chart is composed, any suitable metal such as brass, steel or the like,
or cardboard wood papier mache, vulcanite or the like being employed in its
construction.
By means of the apparatus chart or instrument above described, a saving of
time, labour and material is effected and a perfect fit can be obtained by persons
practically unskilled in the art of dressmaking, no calculations having to be made,
and the exact outline or configuration for any set of measurements within the
limits of the chart, being ensured by the adjustment of the several segments or
parts to the figures or marks on the scales corresponding with or proportioned to
the measurements taken for each part of the figure.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what 1
claim is :-
Firstly. An adjustable chart or instrument for use in drafting bodices or like
garments or patterns for same, substantially as herein shewn and described.
Secondly. A chart or instrument comprising a skeleton framework composed
of straight, angular and curvilinear sections connected together so as to give a
correct outline or configuration of the several sections of which a bodice is made
up and likewise a sewing guide line, some of said parts or sections being adjustable
to adapt the chart for various sizes of bodices and sections of same and scales
applied on each portion of the chart giving measurements in inches, or equivalent
unit employed, and in parts of inches proportioned to the size each part bears to
the whole, all arranged and acting in the manner and for the purposes substantially
as herein shewn and described.
Dated this 30th day of January 1897.
TASKER & CROSSLEY,
Huddersfield, Agents for Applicant.