Improvements in the Method of and Means for Fitting and Cutting Coats and similar Garments.
Year: 1895

page_text: Date of Application, 31st Jan., 1895
Complete Specification Left, 30th Nov., 1895-Accepted, 4th Jan., 1396 ·
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Method of and Means for Fitting and Cutting
Coats and similar Garments.
.I, JOHN MARTINDALE THOMPSON of 70 Market Street, Manchester in the
County of Lancaster, Merchant Tailor, do hereby declare the nature of this
invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to the method of and devices for fitting and cutting coats
and similar garments, and its objects are to enable the garments to be cut with
greater certainty and facility than at present, and to obviate the necessity for
"fitting on."
:
According to my invention, I make and keep a set of standard garments
respectively adapted to approximately fit persons of different heights and sizes. On
each of these garments I make or place a certain number of parallel index lines
points or tapes:-1. To find height of neck. 2. To find depth of scre. 3. To
give position of front of scye. And 4. at the waist. A vertical line marked from
line 3 gives the width from the scye across the chest.
"At various parts of the garment, slits are made, and counected across by means
of elastic webbing or similar material. One of these elastically connected slits is
formed across the back, another in the fore-part, another at the top of the neck,
and another in the scye. These I deem essential for perfect fitting, but fewer or
'more of such slits may be provided.
When a coat has to be made for a particular person, he puts on that standard
garment which fits him most nearly. The fitter then carefully notes how much
each of the slits has opened, or on the contrary how much cloth there is to spare at
these points, and hands these particulars with the number of the standard coat
or garment, to the cutter, who will make a duplicate, as to fit, with the necessary
corrections.
This being done, the garment will invariably fit so accurately that no "fitting
on will be required.
"
Improvements in the Method of and Means for Fitting and Cutting
Coats and similar Garments.
1, JOHN MARTINDALE THOMPSON of 70 Market Street Manchester in the
County of Lancaster, Merchant Tailor, do hereby declare the nature of this
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This invention relates to the method of and means for fitting and cutting conts
and similar garments for ladies' and gentlemen's personal wear, and its objects are
[ Prias Q77

page_text: to enable the garments to be cut with greater certainty and facility than at present,
and to obviate the necessity for "fitting on.'
"
1 will describe my improvements with reference to the accompanying diagram
which represents the pattern which may be employed for the purpose of my
invention for making one particular kind of standard coat.
From such patterns I make and keep a set of standard garments respectively
adapted to approximately fit persons of different heights and sizes. On each of
these garments I make, or place, a certain number of index lines, tapes, or points.
Thus, as indicated by the diagram, I may permanently mark or indicate the point 1,
from which the height of the neck is found: the point 2 from which a horizontal
line or tape is drawn or fixed, giving the depth of the scye; on a horizontal line
from the point 2, a point 3, a perpendicular from which marks the front of the
scye; and a point 4, at the waist. From the point 7 on the line 2-3, a line, 7-8,
and from the point 3, a line 3-9, give the height of the shoulder. From the
point 3 a line 3-10 gives the length of shoulder, and a line through the points
4-11-12 gives the width of waist.
It will be understood that the diagram represents only the pattern for one half
of the upper part of the garment.
In making up the standard garments I produce slits or the like which are
connected or filled in or across by elastic webbing, stockinette or other suitable
elastic material. For example, one of these insertions of the elastic material may
bc made across the back at a, another in the fore-part at b, and a third in the
scye at c.
1 deem the points and the insertions of elastic material indicated on the diagram
and hereinbefore described, essential for perfect fitting, but fewer or more may be
employed if desired.
When a garment has to be made for a particular person, that standard garment
made as herein before described is placed upon him, which fits him most nearly.
The fitter then carefully notes how much each of the slits has opened or on the
contrary bow much cloth there is to spare at the points where the elastic material
is inserted, and hands there particulars together with the number or description of
the standard garment to the cutter, who will make a duplicate as to fit, with the
necessary corrections.
This being done with ordinary care, the garment will invariably fit so accurately
that no fitting on will be required.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. The hereinbefore described method of fitting and cutting coats and similar
garments for personal wear, substantially as set forth.
2. Standard garments made and employed substantially as and for the purpose
herein before described.
Dated this 29th day of November A.D. 1895.
W. E. HEYS & SON,
Agents for the Applicant.