Improvements in Button-hole Stitching or Sewing Machinery.
Year: 1893

page_text: Date of Application, 23th Mar., 1893
Complete Specification Left, 11th Nov., 1893-Accepted, 27th Jan., 1894
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
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Improvements in Button-hole Stitching or Sewing Machinery.
I, JOHN REECE, of Still Street, Brookline in the State of Massachusetts one
of the United States of America, Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of
this invention to be as follows:
This invention has for its object to improve that class of button-hole stitching
machine in which the work to be stitched is held by a suitable work-clamp while
the stitch-forming mechanism makes the stitches for covering the edge of the
button-hole slit, the stitch-forming mechanism and work-clamp having combined
with them suitable mechanism by which to change their relative positions during
the operation of stitching each button-hole.
In this class of .machine as heretofore constructed it has been customary to put
the material in the work-clamp and then close said clamp on the material by a
hand-operated lever, the act of clamping the material effecting the starting of the
machine and its operative parts in the proper order, the machine being automatically
stopped at the completion of a button-hole.
So also in the class of machine referred to, it has been customary to stop the
stitching action of the stitch-forming mechanism as the latter arrives at the small
end of the button-hole, but thereafter, the rotation of the belt wheel employed for
driving the main shaft has been continued to effect such further relative movements
of the stitch and cutter-carrying frames, as to enable the cutter to be brought into
cutting position with relation to the work-clamp, and then the said movement
ceases, leaving the cutter elevated.
It has been proposed to increase the throw of a lever instrumental in effecting
what is called the feeding movement of the machine, so that, while the machine is
being moved simply to put the cutting mechanism into position with relation to the
work-clamp and also to actuate the cutting mechanism to cut the material and bring
the needle into stitching position with relation to the cut button-hole, the relative
distance of movement of parts at each throw of the lever shall be increased, or the
feed stroke be made longer and so save time between one and the next stitching
operation
In the class of machine referred to, the feeding movement has always been a
step-by-step movement between the stitching of one and the next button-hole.
In my aim to increase the speed of this class of machine, I have devised
mechanism whereby the act of putting the material into position to be clamped
effects the starting of the machine, so that a cam forming part of the machine, will
thereafter automatically effect the closing of the work-clamp, and at about the
same time another cam will act to quickly operate the cutter to cut the material
then held in the work clamp, and the cutter will then be permitted to rise and the
movement of the machine will be continued until the stitch-forming mechanism
and the cut button-hole are in proper relative positions to commence the stitching
thereof, when the stitching of the button hole will be effected and the machine will
be automatically stopped.
In this my present invention the movement of the machine during the clamping
and cutting of the button-hole and the bringing of the cut button-hole and stitch
forming mechanism into operative position is effected at a substantially high speed
and preferably by devices having a continuous rotation, and as soon as the stitch
forming mechanism arrives in operative position the feeding movement of the
machine is automatically reduced and made intermitting during the time that the
stitch-forming devices operate to form stitches.
The placing of the material in position in the work clamp may be made to effect

page_text: the starting of the machine in various ways, I having devised different devices for
accomplishing this valuable result, but in as much as I am the first to effect this
result in any manner, this part of my invention is not limited to the exact form of
such appliances, or to any special form of device or devices, as it will be obvious to
those skilled in the art that this feature which results in so great a saving of time
of the operator may be carried out mechanically by the employment of various
forms of devices, without departing from my invention.
In the machine as at present devised there are two pulleys which are rotated
constantly, and one or the other, not both at the same time, will control the feed
movement of the machine, or the relative nrovement of the stitch-frame and
clamp frame.
Each of these pulleys, I intend shall form part of a clutch, and when .one is
..operative the feeding movement is at one speed, and when the other is operative
the feeding movement is at faster speed.
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I therefore propose to use in the improved machine; a clamp frame; a stitch-
frame, one relatively movable with relation to the other; a manually controlled
starting device; a work clamp; and devices to automatically close the work clamp
after the machine has been started by the manually controlled starting device
preparatory to the making of a button hole.
Button-hole cutting mechanism automatically cuts the material in the work-
clamp preparatory to the stitching of a button hole, and mechanism automatically
..spreads the cut button hole.
"
i Suitably formed parts automatically open the work clamp at the completion of a
button-hole.
Suitable devices may automatically stop the machine at the completion of each
button-hole.
A cam device changes the relative positions of the stitch and clamp frames during
the stitching of a button hole, and other mechanism actuates said cam device and
suitable devices rotate the said actuating mechanism and cam device at times
continuously and at other times intermittingly, and these devices automatically
determine which of said pulleys shall move the said actuating mechanism and
cam device.
The two clutch pulleys are so arranged that each has a continuously rotating
part, & the cams and devices controlled by said cams are so arranged that the said
actuating device may be automatically put under the control of either of the said
clutch pulleys and rotate the said actuating device at a high speed or at a slower
speed.
The starting device located between the upper and lower members of the
work clamp is adapted to be actuated as the material is put into the said clamp.
A starting lever occupying a position to cross a line coincident with the length of
the button hole may be arranged to co-operate with the work clamp.
Also co-operating with the stitch forming mechanism and the work clamp is á
throat-plate adapted to overstitch the side edges and eye end of a button-hole with
radiating stitches which acting with the cutting mechanism aud a manually con-
trolled starting device to start the machine and devices to thereafter automatically
start the different parts to effect first the automatic closing of the work-clamp and
then the cutting of the button-hole and the stitching thereof enables the operation
to be effected.
An eye pointed needle located above the material acting with a complemental
stitch-forming device located below the material are both rotatable substantially in
unison about a common centre when stitching the eye of the button-hole by
radiating stitches, a cam device serving to change the relative positions of the
stitch frames and work trames during the operation of stitching a button hole.
The clutch mechanism has intermediate devices to effect the engagement of the
clutch and a restoring device to automatically restore the starting device to its
normal position.
The machine has a worm shaft, and a cam device having worm teeth also a

page_text: ratchet wheel at one end of the shaft actuated by the main shaft and a clutch
pulley normally loose thereon besides the devices between said main shaft and
said ratchet wheel to rotate the worm shaft, at the opposite end of said worm shaft,
a co-operating clutch member fast on said shaft and devices to couple one of said
clutch pulleys operatively to the shaft on which it is mounted and to simultaneously
unclutch the other pulley.
A slide rod actuated by a cam moves a lever to close the work clamp automatically..
as stated and an adjusting device closes the work clamp more or less.
Dated the 27th day of March 1893.
:;
WM. BROOKES & SON,
55 & 56, Chancery Lane, London, Agents for the Applicant.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Button-hole Stitching or Sewing Machinery.
I JOHN REECE of Still Street, Brookline, in the State of Massachusetts, one
of the United States of America, Manufacturer do hereby declare the nature, of
this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This invention has for its object to improve that class of button-hole stitching
machine in which the work to be stitched is held by a suitable work-clamp while
the stitch forming mechanism makes the stitches for covering the edge of the
button-hole slit, the stitch-forming mechanism and work-clamp having combined
with them suitable mechanism by which to change their relative positions during
the operation of stitching each button-hole. In this class of machine as heretofore
constructed it has been customary to put the material in the work-clamp, and then
close said clamp on the material by a hand-operated lever, the act of clamping the
material effecting the starting of the machine and its operative parts in the proper
order, the machine being automatically stopped at the completion of a button-hole.
So also in the class of machine referred to it has been customary to stop the
stitching action of the stitch forming mechanism as the latter arrives at the small
end of the button-hole, but thereafter the rotation of the belt wheel employed for
driving the main shaft has been continued to effect such further relative movements
of the stitch and cutter-carrying frames as to enable the cutter to be brought into
cutting position with relation to the work-clamp, and then the said movement ceases,
leaving the cutter elevated. In the class of machine referred to the feeding
movement has always been a step-by-step movement between the stitching of one
and the next button-hole.
In my aim to increase the speed of this class of machine I have devised
mechanism whereby the act of putting the material into position to be clamped
effects the starting of the machine so that a cam forming a part of the machine
will thereafter automatically effect the closing of the work-clamp, and at about the
same time another cam will act to quickly operate the cutter to cut the material
then held in the work-clamp, and the cutter will then be permitted to rise and the
movement of the machine will be continued until the stitch forming mechanism
and the cut button-hole are in proper relative positions to commence the stitching
thereof, when the stitching of the button-hole will be effected and the machine will
be automatically stopped. In this my present invention the movement of the
machine during the clamping and cutting of the button-hole and the bringing of the.
cut button-hole and stitch forming mechanism into operative position is effected at
a substantially high speed and preferably by devices having a continuous rotation,
and as soon as the stitch forming mechanism arrives in operative position the
feeding movement of the machine is automatically reduced and made intermitting
during the time that the stitch forming devices operate to form stitches. Tho

page_text: placing of the material in position in the work-clamp may be made to effect the
starting of the machine in various ways, I having devised different devices for
accomplishing this valuable result, but inasmuch as I am the first to effect this
result in any manner, this part of my invention is not limited to the exact form of
appliances herein illustrated, or to any special form of device or devices, as it will
be obvious to those skilled in the art that this feature which results in so great a
saving of time of the operator may be carried out mechanically by the employment
of various forms of devices, without departing from my invention. In the machine
herein represented, as I have embodied my invention, there are two pulleys which are
rotated constantly, and one or the other, not both at the same time will control the
feed movement of the machine, or the relative movement of the stitch frame and
clamp-frame. Each of these pulleys as constructed forms part of a clutch, and
when one is operative the feeding movement is at one speed, and when the other is
operative the feeding movement is at faster speed.
Figure 1, is a right-hand side elevation partially broken out of a sewing-machine
embodying my invention, part of the work-clamp being omitted and shown enlarged
in Fig. 9;
Fig. 2, a left-hand side elevation partially broken out of the machine shown in
Fig. 1.
:
Fig. 3 is a front elevation of the machine shown in Fig. 1, a sufficient portion of
the clamp-frame being cut away and the work-clamp omitted to show the under-
thread carrying mechanism and other parts which would otherwise be hid;
Fig. 34, a sectional detail of the work-clamp devices in the line - Fig. 9.
Fig. 4, is a partial longitudinal section of the machine in the line y-y Fig. 8.
Fig. 5 is a longitudinal sectional detail showing the shaft a with parts
surrounding and co-operating with it, said figure showing the counter in place and
adapted to be actuated by a gear shown by breaking out some of the parts.
Figs. 6 and 7 are respectively top and underside views of the cam device to be
described.
Fig. 8 is a plan view of the cam device and the curb in which it is mounted
together with the actuating shaft 636 and some of its co-operating parts.
Fig. 9 is a much enlarged view showing the clamp frame, a work-holding clamp,
and one form of starting device.
Fig. 10 is a sectional detail showing the actuating shaft, and some of its'
co-operating parts.
Fig. 11 is a detail showing some of the parts represented in Fig. 5, but separated
so as to more clearly represent the same.
Fig. 12, is an enlarged detail of some of the stitch-forming mechanism below the
clamp-frame;
Figs. 13 to 16, modified forms of my starting device to be described.
Inasmuch as many of the parts of the machine herein to be described are very
similar in their construction and action to parts in the Specification of Letters
Patent granted to me dated September 21st 1886 No. 11962, I will briefly refer
to some of such parts before particularly describing the more special points of
novelty to be herein covered.
·
The frame a, having an overhanging arm and an attached curb or casing a
constitutes what I shall call the stitch-frame; and the plate a' what I shall call
the clamp-frame. The stitch-frame contains a shaft a² provided near its left-hand
end, see Figs. 5 and 11, viewing the front of the machine, with a compound
eccentric, to be hereinafter further described, which actuates a lever c¹ suitably
jointed to the needle-bar b', having an eye-pointed needle, such needle-bar having
its bearings in a loose circular block having attached to it a partial gear d². The
shaft a² has a disk a provided with a hole a 10 see Fig. 11 to receive a pin f³, see
Fig. 2, extended from a plate f' provided at one side with an eccentric hub f* made
hollow for lightness, and surrounded by and adapted to actuate a link f' jointed to
the rear end of a lever g pivoted at go on a leg or stand fixed to the casing a, said
lever actuating the ball-ended elbow lever A having its fulcrum on a pin A in

page_text: brackets or ears depending from the partial gear connected to the shaft. A
mounted in a hub or bearing at one end of the casing a', said shaft having at its upper
end a throst-plate having a needle-hole and a gimp-hole, the said shaft also carrying
a race-way block A' in which is reciprocated a segmental carrier B to which is
connected the curved under thread-carrier 3, said carrier B deriving its movements
from the lever A¹ through a link B² connected to it and to a stud extended from.
the said carrier. The needle has co-operating with it a looper 2 which takes the
needle-thread below the material and draws it back and holds it for the passage
through it of the under thread carrier, said looper being attached to a looper
carrier A2, actuated by or through a slotted arm A³ entered by a stud A' carried
by the lever A. The two partial gears d² and g' are engaged respectively by
teeth at the end of the two pivoted segmental leverse and e' connected by an upright
rod et extended down through the clamp-frame and the casing a', the lever e³ having
at its inner end a roller or other stude which enters a cam groove 4 at the under
side of what I shall herein designate as a cam device, it being represented as a cam
wheel or circular plate j, the hollow hub of the latter rotating about a hollow
sleeve extended upwardly at the centre of the casing a', see Fig. 4, the link
before referred to being extended through the hollow centre of the said cam
device and the hub of the casing.
The devices thus far referred to, to effect the stitch-forming movements of the
stitch-forming devices, and their rotation about the eye of the button-hole, are and
may be all as in my Patent referred to, except that the double eccentric for
reciprocating said needle bar is not found in my said Patent.
Referring now to Figs. 5 and. 11, the shaft a² has fast to it a disk a provided
with a pin a which enters a hole in an eccentric a¹³ surrounding the shaft a' and
free to rock or slide somewhat with relation to said shaft owing to an elongated
slot ax in the said eccentric. This eccentric is surrounded by one end of an
eccentric strap a suitably jointed to the rear end of the needle bar actuating
lever. The eccentric a¹³ has a pin as which enters a hole in a link a
surrounding an eccentric a fast on a sleeve a18x surrounding the shaft a', said
sleeve being held in adjusted position in the stitch-frame by or through a collar a¹³
held fast to said sleeve by a screw a 20×, said collar having a bifurcated arm or
portion ax, see Fig. 3, which is extended through a slot in the stitch-frame said
arm being adapted to be clamped to the stitch-frame by means of a screw a 22×,
screwed into the space between the two arms made by slotting or dividing said
portion ax, the screw expanding the arms against the sides of the slot in the
stitch-frame. Adjustment of this sleeve about shaft a² causes the needle-bar to travel
more or less rapidly at the lower end of its stroke, and this double eccentric imparts
to the needle-bar one reciprocation to each rotation of the shaft a', and it enables
the speed of the movement of the needle-bar to be increased and diminished
properly during the formation of each stitch in order that the needle may be
properly timed to correctly co-operate with, the looper and the needle-thread
carrier.
The cam device j at its lower side has a second cam groove or cam face 7 which
receives in it a roller or other stud 13 of an arm 12 connected to a rock-shaft l,
mounted in bearings at the rear end of the casing a, said rock-shaft having
preferably integral with it an arm having a stud on which is mounted a
suitable swivel block which enters and slides in a groove herein marked 1*, made
longitudinally in the underside of the clamp-frame a¹, see Fig. 4.
The cam device has at its upper side a groove 6 in which is entered a roller or
other stud fixed to and depending from the clamp-frame. If the cam device is
rotated while the clamp-frame is anchored or restrained against longitudinal
movement, the said cam device, owing to the fact that it rotates about a centre of
motion fixed in the casing a', will cause the relative positions of the stitch-frame
and clamp frame to be changed, and in the plan herein illustrated and referred to
the stitch frame and stitch-forming mechanism therein will travel over the clamp-
frame in a straight line and when the active part of the cam 7 comes against the

page_text: stud 13, the rear end of the stitch-frame will be given a lateral movement so that
the needle carried by said stitch-frame will be given a motion to follow along and
about the outline of the eye of the button-hole. It will be understood, however,
that should the stitch frame be anchored or held firmly rather than the clamp
frame, then in such plan the conditions would be reversed and the stitch frame
would stand still and the clamp-frame would slide and be moved out of straight
line to enable the work-clamp holding the material to move the latter in the proper
lines to enable the stitching to go about the eye of the button-hole. The same
relative movement of position of stitch-frame and clamp-frame is provided for in
like manner in the Patent referred to.
The cam device has at its upper side near its centre a cam 57 which acts on a
toe 58 of a cutter-carrying lever G, pivoted at G' and provided with a
cutting-blade G2 of a length adapted to the length of the button-hole slit, said
pivot G¹ being held in suitable ears on the stitch-frame. The button-hole cutting-
blade operating as a single stroke cutter, co-operates with a suitable cutter bed G³
held in place on a projection of the casing a' by a screw n'.
The clamp-frame has, as shown, connected to it by suitable screws 62, 62,
plates m, m, on which are located ears 24, which receive pivot pins 23, on which are
mounted the clamp levers 22, provided at their free ends, as herein represented,
with pivoted clamping plates m', each of said levers having jointed to it an
L-shaped link 26 which is extended below the plate m, and acted upon by a
spring-arm 28 of an arm 29 attached to a rock-shaft 30, there being two such arms.
The plates m in practice have serrated clamp members_m² connected thereto and
adapted to engage the material under the plates m². Each plate m at its under
side near its inner end see Fig. 34, has a suitable stud 65 which acts against
inclines or shoulders n' see Fig. 8, of a spreading device shown as a plate fixed
under the cutting bed, said spreading device acting to spread the button-hole clamp
or work-holding device after the button-hole has been cut in the material. The
plates m, m, are connected together by a suitable spring 96.
The clamp-frame and the work-clamp, the button-hole cutter, the rock-shaft,
and its arms 29 to close the clamp, and the cam for closing the cutting mechanism
are all as in said Patent.
The shaft a at its right-hand end viewing the front of the machine, has loose
upon it a pulley f10 co-operating with which is a dog f, and other co-operating
parts, not necessary to be particularly described, constituting a clutch-mechanism
substantially such as shown in Specification of Letters Patent granted to me
dated 13 December 1892 No. 22856, said dog when in engagement with the clutch
pulley enabling the latter, which is rotated continually, to effect the rotation of the
shaft a², the stud f13 carried at the upper end of an arm f" forming part of a three-
armed lever or rock-shaft being at such time held out of the path of rotation of the
said dog. The said three-armed lever has its bearing in a tubular or sleeve-like
hub f forming part of the stitch-frame. The arm F of the said lever has at its
front end a suitable adjusting screw as F10 which co-operates with the outer end of
a slide pin co, guided by a guide-plate f18* see Fig. 8, and by the stitch-frame, and
which pin crests upon a cam made in the upper side of the cam device, said
cam having an abrupt shoulder f" and an incline 18. When the slide pin eo in the
rotation of the cam device j rides up upon the higher part of the cam c, the arm
having the stud f18 is put out of the range of motion of the dog f, and the
pulley 10 is then caused to rotate the shaft a² and the stitching of the button-hole
takes place; but as soon as the said pin drops from the abrupt end of the said cam
the stud referred to immediately comes within the range of movement of the
dog and effects the release of the pulley f10 from the shaft a² and the stitching
movement of the stitch forming devices is immediately stopped. The arm 16x of
the three-armed lever referred to is joined by a rod cl with one end of a lever 6
pivoted at 623 on a stud in a bridge-piece 62 crossing the cam device ; and connected
to the casing at. The lever 6" has an extension 6 pivoted by link 61 to a hub 618
loose on the actuating shaft 63, said hub supporting a loose pulley 6” having a

page_text: clutch part 6. This pulley will preferably be rotated continuously from some
suitable source of motion preferably a belt extended to a counter-shaft.
The shaft has fast upon it at one end. an arm, crank or other device 1,17
provided with a clutch part 6 with which the clutch part 26 may be made to
engage whenever it is desired that the actuating shaft be rotated continuously
by the fast speed pulley 67. The shaft 7 has a worin (which by its engagement
with the worm teeth t' of the cam device rotates the said cam device, the move-
ment being either intermitting. or continuous according to which of two clutch
pulleys has control of the shaft 6,30
The shaft a has. fast upon it an eccentric 1, see Fig. 5, which through an
eccentric strap is connected to a pin 13 having a foot 614, shown by dotted lines
Fig. 10, which enters a slot 614* in a pawl-carrying arm 15, mounted loosely on
what I have denominated the actuating-shaft 3, said pawl-carrier having connected
to it a booked pawl as which is adapted, in one direction of the stroke of the pawl-
carrier, to engage teeth of the ratchet wheel a, last upon the shaft 636. This
pawl near its outer end has a pin a" which enters a slot in a friction plate a²²,
surrounding the shaft loosely at one side of the ratchet wheel, said plate being
acted upon by a ring a in turn acted upon by a spring a said ring being held
from rotation by a pin a2. By means of this friction plate the pawl as when on
its reverse stroke is given a slight movement away from the ratchet wheel a 20 SO
that the pawl does not click over the ratchet teeth.
When the clutch pulley is to rotate the shaft a² and make stitches, the
arm will be moved to the right Fig. 1 far enough to enable the stud 13 to
release the dog, and at such time the lever 622 will be moved sufficiently to draw
the clutch part 2 of the pulley 27 back away from the clutch part 1, and the
pulley will then run loosely on the shaft 3. During the time that the stitch-
forming devices are actuated to make stitches,, the shaft 3 has imparted to it an
intermitting rotation, and the stitches are of greater or less length according to th::
position of the pin 613 in the pawl-carrier. When, however, the lever F is move
by the came to disengage the clutch pulley from the shaft² to stop th
stitching, the movement of the lever 2, 2, will slide the pulley 627 on the sha't 13:
so that its clutch part 26 will engage the clutch and then the pulley in
continuous rotation will rotate the shaft 7,3 continuously and at a faster speed.
The end of the lever opposite to that joined to the link 3, has co-operating
with it a slide 30, see Fig. 2, one end of which has a suitable projection 31 which is
acted upon and locked in place by one end of a starting device 10 represented in
Figs. 1, 3 and 9 as a sort of lever, pivoted at 12 and having a finger e³ extended
partially across the machine substantially at right angles to the length of the
button-hole, said finger lying preferably between the upper and lower members of
the clamp, so that when the material, (a button-piece or other article to be provided
with button-holes, or to be stitched,) is put into the clamp said finger will be mad
to occupy part of the position occupied by the material, so that said finger el may
be readily moved manually as the material is being manipulated, or said finger e³
may be moved by the finger of the operator, the turning of the starting lever from
any cause releasing the slide rod 30 so that it may be moved forward, or to the
right, see Fig. 2, by the spring connected to it and to the clamp-frame. The
clutch parts, 26 are disengaged when the work-clamp is open, as in Fig. 2.
The rotation of the shaft 36 starts the cam device, and the latter instantly by
the end n of a cam 2. see Fig. 7, moving with the cam device, acts on a slide
rod causing it to be depressed so as to effect the depression of a lever et
pivoted at and connected by link e¹ with one of the arms 29 used to close the
work-clamp as before described. Preferably the rod will act on an a ijusting
device 166, shown as a screw having a check nut.167, rotation of the said adjusting
device in one or another direction determining to a nicety the extent of the
closing movement of, the work-clamp. In this way the first effect of moving the
starting device in the act of putting the work into the work-clamp is to effect
the automatic closing of the work-clamp, and at substantially the same time the

page_text: cam 57 of the cam device acts to turn the cutter lever G and automatically cut
the work held in the cloth clamp.
The drawings show the parts of the machine in position to receive the material
to be cut and stitched, the clamp being open, the cutter elevated and the machine
at rest, with the exception that the two clutch pulleys to and 1,27 are running
loosely. In this position the end of the lever 22, see Fig. 2, contacts with the
slide bar c, the spring is slightly stretched and the outer end of the said bar
is held locked back by the starting device. Now the operator while, or in the act of
putting the work into the clamp causes the starting device to be moved, thus
releasing the slide bar 80 and permitting the spring 22 to turn the lever 622
sufficiently to effect the engagement of the clutch pulley 62 with the proper part
of the shaft and said shaft will be started in rotation, rotating the cam device
and causing the cam n" to effect as described the closing of the clamp, and as
this is done the cain 57 actuates the cutting mechanism at the button-hole, and
then the cutter rises from and the cam 6 brings the cut button-hole into stitching
position, and the incline of cam turns the three-armed rock-shaft, causing
the stud 13 to release the dog 12 so that the belt wheel 10 may be coupled with
and rotate the shaft a² to actuate the stitch forming devices, and also to inter-
mittingly rotate the shaft 3 and the cam device j, but to do this, just as the
three-armed rock-shaft is turned against the tension of spring 2 to release the
dog f, as described, the arm 16x pulls upon and turns the lever 22 far enough
to cause the clutch pulley 27 to be disengaged from the shaft 36 which it at such
time was rotating. The rotation of the shafts a² and 638 by or through the clutch
pulley is continued until the button-hole has been stitched, at which time the
pin drops off the abrupt shoulder f" of the cam 12. This dropping of the pin
allows the three-armed rock-shaft to be moved by the spring f2, see Fig. 1, thus
bringing the stud f 13 in position to turn the dog and cause it to release the
pulley from the shaft a². As the three-armed rock-shaft is turned as described by
the spring, the spring pulling on the lever 622 effects the re-engagement of
the clutch parts 12, 616, and again starts the fast and continuous rotation of the
shaft 3, and the cam device ), the cam 21 thereon as the continuous motion of
the cam device commences, relieving the pin ele from pressure and permitting the
spring 29 to act on arm 29 and open the clamp. During and following the
opening of the clamp the cam 6-acts to cause the change of position of the stitch-
frame and clamp frame to bring the cutting, mechanism into operative position.
Just before the parts come into cutting position the end of the slide bar c30 strikes
the end of the lever 62 and moves it sufficiently to effect the release of the clutch
parts 2 and 616, and the machine is again brought to rest with the end of the
starting device holding the slide bar 30. The machine will now remain at rest
until the starting device is again moved.
12
In practice the speed of the machine is such and the operator will so manipulate
the work by hand, that as soon as the clamp is opened said operator will, as quickly
as possibie, feed the work the distance of a button-hole and then as quickly
move the starting device and in this manner the cutting and stitching are kept in
rapid succession without any loss of time of the machine or the operator.
This invention is not limited to the exact shape shown of the device or bar c³0
between the starting device and the lever 6"; or between the starting device and
the clutch 62, 646 to effect its engagement on the movement of the starting device
after or while putting the work in the clamp. After the cutting of the button-hole
has been effected, and during the relative change of position of the stitch frame
and clamp frame the spreader n², by contact with studs 65, one on each of the
plates m, see the detail Fig. 3ª, acts to effect the spreading of the button-hole ready
to be stitched.
This invention is not limited to the employment of devices of the exact form
shown between the starting device and the means for starting up the cam for
automatically closing the work-clamp, nor to the exact shape of the cam for closing
the work-clamp.

page_text: The starting device shown in Fig. 9 has co-operating with it a restoring device
shown as a rod ² normally acted upon by a spring to cause a pin or projection r
of the rod to quickly or almost instantly restore the starting device into its normal
position and cause it to lock the slide bar c, this being done as soon as the clamp
has been opened.
To prevent the starting device from being moved too far toward the operator
by momentum I have provided the rod with a spring connected thereto by a
screw, the free end of the spring contacting with the front side of the starting
device. The arms 29 in practice are kept elevated by a spring 29*, see Fig. 2, fast
on an ear 30% of the clamp frame, the said ear receiving the rock-shaft 30.
In Figs. 13 and 14, I have shown a modified form of starting mechanism which
I will now describe briefly. The slide bar co like that shown in Fig. 2, has a
projection 200 which is acted upon by one end of one of the arms 29, said arm
in practice, however, being normally lifted a little higher by the spring 29x than
required in Fig. 2, so that the arms 28 shown in Figs. 2 and 3 and also fully in
Fig. 34 will contact with and slightly lift the inner ends of the plates m, m which
are held loosely on the clamp-frame. When the inner ends of the clamp-plates m
are held up slightly one of the arms 29 keeps the slide bar 3 back, but
as the operator puts the work into the jaws of the clamp the slightest downward
pressure depresses the inner ends of the clamp plates and arms 29, thus releasing
the slide bar 30 when the fast speed clutch is brought into operation as before
described.
In Fig. 15 & 16, I have shown a modified form of starting device consisting of a
lever so, pivoted at s' on ears at the under side of the clamp-frame, said lever having
one end adapted to meet and lock back the slide bar c, the opposite end of said
lever having its end suitably adapted to be engaged or struck by the finger or hand
of the operator when putting the work into the clamp.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is:
In means or apparatus for button-hole stitching or sewing.
1. The use in a machine for button-hole work of the following instrumen-
talities, viz. a clamp-frame; a stitch-frame, one relatively moveable with
relation to the other; a manually controlled starting device; a work-clamp; and
devices to automatically close the work-clamp after the machine has been started
by the manually controlled starting device preparatory to the making of a button-
hole, substantially as described.
2. The use in a button-hole sewing machine of the following instrumen-
talities, viz. a clamp-frame; and a stitch-frame, one relatively movable with
relation to the other; a manually controlled starting device; a work-clamp ;
devices to automatically close the work-clamp after the machine has been started
preparatory to the making of a button-hole, and button-hole cutting mechanism to
automatically cut the material in the work-clamp preparatory to the stitching of a
button-hole, substantially as described.
3. The use in a button-hole sewing machine of the following instrumentalities,
viz. a clamp-frame and a stitch-frame, one relatively moveable with relation to
the other; a manually controlled starting device; a work-clamp; devices to
automatically close the work-clamp after the machine has been started preparatory
to the making of a button-hole; button-hole cutting mechanism to automatically
cut the material in the work-clamp preparatory to the stitching of a button-hole,
and mechanism to automatically spread the cut button-hole substantially as
described.
4. The use in a button-hole sewing machine of the following instrumentalities,
viz.; a clamp-frame and a stitch-frame, one relatively movable with relation to the
other; stitch-forming mechanism; a manually controlled starting device; a work-
clamp; devices to automatically close the work-clamp after the machine has been
B

page_text: started preparatory to the stitching of a button-hole and devices to automatically
open said work-clamp at the completion of a button-hole, substantially as
described.
5. The use in a button-hole sewing machine of the following instrumentalities,
viz. a clamp-frame and a stitch-frame, one relatively moveable with relation to
the other; stitch forming mechanism; a manually controlled starting device; a
work-clamp; devices to automatically close the work-clamp after the machine has
been started preparatory to the stitching of a button-hole; devices to automatically
open said work-clamp at the completion of a button-hole, and devices to auto-
matically stop the machine at the completion of each button-hole, substantially as
described.
6. The use in a button-hole sewing machine, of a stitch-frame, a clamp-frame,
stitch forming mechanism, a work-clamp, a cam device to change the relative
positions of the said frames during the stitching of a button-hole, button-hole
cutting mechanism, actuating mechanism for said cam device and devices to rotate the
said actuating mechanism and cam device at times continuously and at other times
intermittingly, substantially as described.
7. The use in a button-hole sewing machine, of a stitch-frame; a clamp-frame;
a cam device to effect the relative changes of position of said frames during the
stitching of a button-hole, an actuating device for said cam device, two clutch
pulleys and cams and devices controlled thereby to automatically determine which
of said pulleys shall move the said actuating mechanism and cam device, substan-
tially as described.
8. The use in a button-hole sewing machine of a stitch-frame; a clamp-frame;
a cam device to effect the relative changes of position of said frames during the
stitching of a button-hole; an actuating device for said cam device; and two
clutch pulleys each having a continuously rotating part, and cams, and devices
controlled by said cams whereby the said actuating device may be automatically
put under the control of either of the said clutch pulleys and rotate the said
actuating device at a high speed or at a slower speed, substantially as described.
9. The use in a button-hole sewing machine, of the work-clamp, and a starting
device located between the upper and lower members thereof and adapted to be
actuated as the material is put into the said clamp, substantially as described.
10. The use in a button-hole sewing machine, of the work clamp and a starting
lever occupying a position to cross a line coincident with the length of the button-
hole, substantially as described.
11. The use in a button-hole sewing machine containing stitch forming mechanism,
of a work-clamp, a throat plate adapted to over stitch the side edges and eye end
of a button-hole with radiating stitches, cutting mechanism, a manually controlled
starting device to start the machine and devices to thereafter automatically start
the different parts to effect first the automatic closing of the work-clamp and then
the cutting of the button-hole and the stitching thereof, substantially as described.
12. The use in a button-hole sewing machine of a stitch-frame, a clamp-frame,
a work-clamp, stitch forming mechanism comprising an eye pointed needle located
above the material, a complemental stitch-forming device located below the material
and both rotatable substantially in unison about a common centre when stitching
the eye of the button-hole by radiating stitches, a cam device to change the
relative positions of the said frames during the operaton of stitching a button-hole,
a manually-controlled starting device to start the machine; and devices to there-
after automatically close the work-clamp to clamp the material, substantially as
described.
13. The use in a button-hole sewing machine, of a stitch-frame, a clamp-frame,
a work-clamp, stitch-forming mechanism comprising an eye-pointed needle located
above the material, a complemental stitch-forming device located below the material
and both rotatable substantially in unison about a common centre when stitching
the eye of the button-hole by radiating stitches, button-hole cutting mechanism, a
cam device to change the relative positions of the said frames during the operation

page_text: of stitching a button-hole, devices for automatically closing the work-clamp, devices
to close the cutting mechanism, a manually-controlled starting device whereby the
movement of the said starting device manually starts in motion the device for
automatically closing the work-clamp and causes the button-hole cutting mechanism
to be actuated, substantially as described.
14. The use in a button-hole sewing machine, of a work-clamp, a starting device
to start the machine; devices to automatically close the work-clamp; a clutch
mechanism, intermediate devices to effect the engagement of the clutch, and a
restoring device to automatically restore the starting device to its normal position,
substantially as described.
15. The use in a button-hole sewing machine, of the worm shaft, the cam device
having worm teeth, a ratchet wheel at one end of the shaft, the main shaft, a
clutch pulley normally loose thereon, devices between said main shaft and said
ratchet wheel to rotate the worm shaft, a clutch pulley loose at the opposite end
of said worm shaft, a co-operating clutch member fast on said shaft, devices to
couple one of said clutch pulleys operatively to the shaft on which it is mounted
and to simultaneously unclutch the other pulley, substantially as described.
16. The use in a button-hole sewing machine, of the lever 622, the shaft 38, a
pulley normally loose thereon, clutch parts carried by said pulley and said shaft,
connections between said loose pulley and said lever, a bar, a spring, a starting
lever co-operating with said bar, to operate substantially as described.
17. The use in a button-hole sewing machine, of a work-clamp, a lever, con-
nections between it and the said work-clamp, a cam, a slide rod actuated by said
cam and moving the said lever to close the work-clamp automatically, substantially
as described.
18. The use in a button-hole sewing machine, of a work-clamp, a lever, con-
nections between it and the said work-clamp, a cam, a slide rod actuated by said
cam and moving the said lever to close the work-clamp automatically, and an
adjusting device to close the work-clamp more or less, substantially as described.
Dated the 10th day of November 1893.
WM. BROOKES & SON,
55 & 56, Chancery Lane, London, Agents for the Applicant.