AN IMPROVED MACHINE FOR CUTTING BUTTON-HOLES
Year: 1865

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Julius Garelly, of Paris, in the Empire of France,
at present residing at No. 3, Vernon Place, Bloomsbury Square, in the
County of Middlesex, Merchant, for the Invention of "AN IMPROVED
MACHINE FOR CUTTING BUTTON-HOLES."-A communication from abroad by
J
D
D
LTid Stater of
Sealed the 29th August 1865, and dated the 11th March 1865.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Julius Garelly at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 11th
March 1865.
I, JULIUS GARELLY, of Paris, in the Empire of France, at present residing
at No. 3, Vernon Place, Bloomsbury Square, in the County of Middlesex,
Merchant, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "AN
IMPROVED MACHINE FOR CUTTING BUTTON-HOLES," (a communication to me from
abroad by George Réhfus, of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, in the United States
of America,) to be as follows:-
A frame or standard of suitable form supports & cutter or punch, which
slides in vertical grooves therein, the form and size of the cutting edge being
that of the largest button-hole required to be cut, and having an eyelet at one
end. The cutter or punch is brought down by means of a hand lever, and is
raised by a spring when the pressure is removed from the said lever. Imme-
diately below the cutter is a moveable die-plate, which is capable of partially

page_text: turning or oscillating in a horizontal direction on a vertical pin fixed in the
frame, so that any part thereof can be presented beneath the cutter. This
die-plate has the edge cut into steps varying in radial distance from the centre
pin, the highest step slightly exceeding the length of the cutter or punch, so
that when this part is placed below the cutter and the lever pressed down a
button-hole is cut the full size of the cutter. When either of the other steps
is presented below the cutter the cut is only made as far as the edge of the
die-plate, and the length of the button-hole thus varies according to the
position of the die-plate, being of course shortest when the lowest step is used,
each button-hole having an eyelet at one end. But in order to cut a button-
bole without an eyelet when required a part of the die-plate is provided with
a hole, and when this part is brought beneath the cutter the said hole comes
opposite to that part of the cutter which forms the eyelet, and hence the cutter
does not act at that part, but cuts merely a straight slit in the fabric. The
back of the die-plate bears on that part of the frame which forms the bed or
foot of the machine, and in order to hold or lock the die-plate in the required
position, and to change the latter with facility, the back of the die-plate is
provided with holes or recesses corresponding with the different positions, into
which fits a pin attached to a spring. On pressing the latter the pin is
removed and the die-plate is then adjusted to the required position, and on
releasing the same the die-plate is locked. There is also an adjustable guide
or gauge against which the edge of the fabric is held, so as to ensure the
cutting of the button-holes at any required distance from the edge.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Julius Garelly in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 11th
September 1865.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JULIUS
GARELLY, of Paris, in the Empire of France, at present residing at No. 3,
Vernon Place, Bloomsbury Square, in the County of Middlesex, Merchant,
send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Eleventh day of March, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-five, in the twenty-eighth year of
Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto
me, the said Julius Garelly, Her special licence that I, the said Julius Garelly,
my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Julius

page_text: Garelly, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the
term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel
Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "AN IMPROVED MACHINE FOR
CUTTING BUTTON-HOLES," (a communication to me from abroad by George
Rehfus, of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, in the United States of America,)
upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said Julius Garelly, my
executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their,
or one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be
performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office
within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said
Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Julius Garelly, do hereby declare the
nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement in writing, and on reference to the accompanying Sheet of Drawings,
that is to say
A frame or standard of suitable form supports a cutter or punch, which
slides in vertical grooves therein, the form and size of the cutting edge being
that of the largest button-hole required to be cut, and having an eyelet at one
end. The cutter or punch is brought down by means of a hand lever, and is
raised by a spring when the pressure is removed from the said lever. Imme-
diately below the cutter is a moveable die-plate, which is capable of partially
turning or oscillating in a horizontal direction on a vertical pin fixed in the
frame, so that any part thereof can be presented beneath the cutter. This
die-plate has the edge cut into steps varying in radial distance from the centre
pin, the highest step slightly exceeding the length of the cutter or punch, so
that when this part is placed below the cutter and the lever pressed down a
button-hole is cut the full size of the cutter. When either of the other steps
is presented below the cutter the cut is only made as far as the edge of the
die-plate, and the length of the button-hole thus varies according to the
position of the die-plate, being of course shortest when the lowest step is
used, each button-hole having an eyelet at one end. But in order to cut a
button-hole without an eyelet when required a part of the die-plate is provided
with a hole, and when this part is brought beneath the cutter the said" hole
comes opposite to that part of the cutter which forms the eyclet, and hence the

page_text: cutter does not act at that part, but cuts merely a straight slit in the fabric.
The back of the die-plate bears on that part of the frame which forms the bed
or foot of the machine, and in order to hold or lock the die-plate in the
required position, and to change the latter with facility, the back of the die
plate is provided with holes or recesses corresponding with the different
positions, into which fits a pin attached to a spring. On pressing the latter
the pin is removed and the die-plate is then adjusted to the required position,
and on releasing the same the die-plate is locked. There is also an adjustable
guide or gauge against which the edge of the fabric is held, so as to ensure
the cutting of the button-holes at any required distance. from the edge.
Such being the nature and object of my said Invention for "An Improved
Machine for Cutting Button-holes," I will now proceed to describe more in
detail the manner in which the same is to be or may be performed or carried
into practical effect; and in order that the same may be distinctly understood
I have annexed hereunto a Sheet of Drawings illustrative thereof, and have
marked the same with figures and letters of reference corresponding with
those in the following explanation thereof, that is to say,--
In the annexed Drawing Figure 1 is a side elevation of the improved
machine with the lever and cutter elevated or in its normal position; Figure 2
is a view of the reverse side of the machine with the lever and cutter depressed,
as when in action; and Figure 3 is a plan view of the same as seen from
above with the lever reversed. Figure 4 is a view of the die-plate detached
from the machine. Similar letters of reference indicate corresponding parts
of the machine in all the Figures.
a, a, is the frame or standard supporting the cutter or punch b, b, which
slides in vertical grooves in the former, and is depressed when required by
means of the band lever c, c, being raised the spring d, d, whenever the
pressure is removed from the said lever. The form of the cutting edge of the
punch is shewn at 6*, 6*. e, is the moveable die-plate, which rests on the
bed of the machine, and is capable of partially turning or oscillating in a
horizontal direction on a vertical pin f, so that any part desired can be brought
beneath the cutter or punch 6, b. It will be observed that the edge of the
die-plate is cut into steps 1, 2, 3, 4, varying in radial distance from the centre
pin, and it will be evident that the length of the button-hole cut will coincide
with the position of the die-plate, as the punch will not cut beyond the edge
thereof, and that each of the button-holes corresponding to the positions
1, 2, 3, 4, will have an eyelet at one end. But if it be desired to cut a small
button-hole without an eyelet, (as in shirts, for instance,) then the part marked *

page_text: of step 1 must be presented beneath the cutter or punch, and the hole g
coming beneath that part of the cutter which forms the eyelet prevents it from
cutting at that part, and consequently only a straight slit is cut in the fabric.
In order to allow of the necessary shifting of the die-plate e, e, and to retain
it in position when adjusted, holes are drilled in the back thereof corresponding
to the five various positions, and a spring h, h, is placed beneath, having a pin
which projects upwards into whichever of the said holes is presented opposite
to it. When it is desired to alter the size of the button-hole all that is
necessary is to press on the spring h, h, so as to withdraw the pin from the
back of the die-plate, then to turn the latter to the required position, and upon
releasing the spring the pin will enter the corresponding hole and retain the
die-plate in the required position. i, i, is an adjustable guide or gauge against
which the edge of the fabric is pressed, so as to ensure the cutting of the
button-holes at any required distance from the edge of the fabric. This gauge
is secured, when adjusted, by means of the small nut k.
Having now described the nature and object of my said Invention for "An
Improved Machine for Cutting Button-holes," together with the manner in
which the same is to be or may be performed or carried into practical effect,
I would remark in conclusion that I claim as the Invention communicated to
me by the aforesaid George Rehfus the improved machine above described
and delineated in the annexed Drawing, or any mere modification or imitation
thereof constructed and operating in substantially the same or a similar
manner.
In witness whereof, I, the said Julius Garelly, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Twenty-second day of August, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-five.
JULIUS GARELLY. (L.S.)