Improvements in the Manufacture of Tapestry, Brussels, Plush or Pile, and similar Fabrics.
Year: 1889

page_text: Date of Application, 19th Mar., 1889
Complete Specification Left. 18th Dec. 1889-Accepted 18th Jan. 1890
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Tapestry, Brussels, Plush or
Pile, and similar Fabrics.
We, ALEXANDER MORTON of the firm of Alexander Morton & Co. Manufacturers,
Darvel, Ayrshire and JAMES MORTON, Carpet Manager to said firm, do hereby
declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This Invention relates to the manufacture of tapestry Brussels, plush or pile and
similar fabrics for carpets, curtains and the like, and it has for its object the pro-
duction in a weaving loom of the same pattern and colouring on both sides or surfaces
of the fabric and whereby in the case of pile carpets and rugs in particular an
imitation of hand made Axminster fabrics is obtained, firmness equal to that secured
by hand knotting being given to the individual piles of cloth.
In the manufacture of such carpets and rugs in looms as heretofore attempted the
pattern of the back of the fabric has been marred and the colouring mixed owing to
the binding warps employed to secure the pile and form cloth being carried over the
weft and floating coloured or pattern warps and pressing the latter through between
the warps forming the pattern at the back. According to my invention however I
overcome this defect by forming practically two plies of cloth in the fabric, the binding
or twilling warps which may be introduced to bind the pattern warps in either or
both plies being in no case carried from one ply to the other or allowed to pass
through the floating coloured warp.
In carrying out the invention I employ an ordinary Brussels carpet or similar loom
and carry the coloured warps by which the pattern is formed from the fell to a bank
or banks of bobbins at the rear of the loom through mails which are operated on by
means of jacquard mechanism whilst the binding warp is carried in like manner to a
beam or beams and passes through heddles or other shedding mechanism operated in
the usual way to form one or two plies of cloth when the shuttle is thrown. The
jacquard mechanism is operated to raise to the upper surface such of the coloured
warps as are to form the pattern then to depress the same warps to produce the same
pattern on the underside, the unselected warps being floated between the plies of the
fabric. The pattern warps are thus raised and depressed at each throw of the shuttle
whilst the binding warps are similarly but independently acted on by the heddles to
form cloth with the weft either in the back ply alone to bind the pattern warp in the
case of cut pile fabrics or both in the front and back ply. In forming cut pile fabrics
each selected warp after appearing at the upper surface is carried down to the back
of the under ply under the shuttle thread then up to the front over the next shuttle
thread then down again for the next shot and then up to the front the pile cutting
blade or knife being inserted at each alternate raising of the pattern warp, and the
pile thread being thus secured by two weft shots over it but under the floating warps
and one intermediate weft shot under it but over the floating warps as well as by
the binding warps when such are used in either the back or front ply. In weaving
Brussel carpets the usual pile forming wires are used instead of the cutting blades
or knives.
The wire or knife may be used for one of the sides only, in which case a raised or
plush pattern would appear on one surface while the other would contain an equally
distinct and similar pattern of plain Tapestry; or, as in fabrics where a raised or
plush surface is required on both sides, the wire or knife may be thrown over the
coloured warps which are depressed to form the pattern on the under side of the
fabric, as well as under the coloured warps when raised to form the pattern on
the upper side of the fabric.
Dated this Eighteenth day of March 1889
GRUIKSHANK & FAIRWEATHER,
62, Saint Vincent Street, Glasgow, Agents.

page_text: 3
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Tapestry, Brussels, Plush or
Pile, and similar Fabrics.
We, ALEXANDER MORTON of the firm of Alexander Morton & Co. Manufacturers
Darvel, Ayrshire, and' JAMES MORTON, Carpet Manager to said firm do hereby
declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed
to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This Invention relates to the manufacture of tapestry, Brussels, plush or pile and
similar fabrics for carpets, curtains and the like, and it has for its object the pro-
duction in a weaving loom of the same pattern and colouring on both sides or surfaces
.of the fabric and whereby in the case of pile carpets and rugs in particular an imitation
of hand made Axminster fabrics is obtained, firmness equal to that secured by hand
knotting being given to the individual piles of cloth.
In the manufacture of such carpets and rugs in looms as heretofore attempted the
pattern of the back of the fabric has been marred and the colouring mixed owing to
the binding warps employed to secure the pile and form cloth being carried from back
to front over the weft and floating coloured or pattern warps and pressing the latter
through between the warps forming the pattern at the back. According to our inven-
tion. however we overcome this defect by forming practically two plies of cloth in the
fabric,, the binding or twilling warps which may be introduced to bind the pattern
warps, in either or both plies being in no case carried from one ply to the other or
allowed to pass through the floating coloured warp.
In carrying out the invention we employ an ordinary Brussels carpet or similar
loom and as represented in the diagram figure 1 of the accompanying drawings we
carry the coloured warps w by which the pattern is formed from the fell F to a bank
.or banks of bobbins at the rear of the loom through mails m in cords M which are
operated on by means of jacquard mechanism whilst the binding warp v is carried
in like manner to a beam or beams B and passes through heddles H or other shedding
mechanism operated in the usual way to form one or two plies of cloth when the
shuttle is thrown. The jacquard mechanism is operated to raise to the upper surface
such of the coloured warps w as are to form the pattern then to depress the same
warps to produce the same pattern on the underside, the unselected warps being
floated between the plies of the fabric as indicated in the diagrams figures 2, 3, 4, 5, 6
and 7. The pattern warps w are thus alternately raised and depressed at cach throw
of the shuttle that is, raised at one throw and depressed at the next throw, whilst the
binding warps v are similarly but independently acted on by the heddles to form cloth
with the weft or ¹ either in the back ply alone to bind the pattern warp in the case
of cut pile fabrics or both in the front and back ply. In forming cut pile fabrics as
shewn, by figures 2 and 3 each selected warp w after appearing at the upper surface is
carried down to the back of the under ply under the shuttle thread a then up to the
front over the next shuttle thread a then down again for the next shot and then up
to the front, the pile cutting blade or knife K being inserted at each alternate raising
of the pattern warp w, and the pile thread being thus secured by two weft shots a, a,
over it, but under the floating warps fw, and one intermediate weft shot under it
but over the floating warps as well as by the binding warps v.or when such are
used in either the back or front ply. In weaving Brussels carpets as indicated at
figure 4 the usual pile forming wires W are used instead of the cutting blades or
knives..
The wire or knife may be used for one of the sides only, in which case a raised or
plush pattern would appear on one surface while the other would contain an equally
distinct and similar pattern of plain Tapestry, or as in fabrics where a raised or plush
surface is required on both sides, the wire or knife may be thrown over the coloured
warps (w) which are depressed to form the pattern on the under side of the fabric as
well as under the coloured warps (w) when raised to form the pattern on the upper
side of the fabric.

page_text: The fabric may be woven with two or more shots instead of a single shot being
thrown between the raised or cut pattern warps on each side to ensure greater firmness
in tying on both sides.
The binding warps v, vl, may be interwoven or interlaced with the weft threads in
the upper or lower plies or both or they may be altogether dispensed with.
Figures 2 to 7 indicate several of the modes of introducing the binding warps which
in no case cross from ply to ply.
Figure 8 is an elevation of apparatus we find it convenient to employ in conjunction
with the jacquard mechanism to facilitate the alternate raising and depressing of the
selected warps as hereinbefore described and figures 9 and 10 are views of details of
such apparatus. This apparatus comprises a comber-board A which has a rising and
falling motion communicated to it by rods 6 from cams on any convenient shaft of
the loom and upper and lower hole boards B, B'₁, which have a horizontal reciprocating
motion imparted to them by levers C, C', operated also from one of the loom shafts.
The knotted cords M. of the jacquard apparatus by which the warps are selected
pass through perforations in the hole boards and through holes a having side slits.
as shown in the comber-board. In the operation of this device when the jacquard
apparatus raises the selected warps (w) the knots on the cords M which are lifted are
brought up to about the point d whilst the knots on those for the unselected warps.
are left just over the comber-board at d². The hole boards B, B', are at the same
time moved laterally so that the knots are all over the narrow slits of the holes a in the
comber-board and a weft shot is thrown. Then the comber-board is raised engaging.
and carrying with it the cords acting on the unselected warps, to float them whilst the
hole boards are moved back so that the knots on the cords for the selected warps are
free to pass through the holes a in the comber-board and these warps drop to the
under side of the fabric when the next weft shot is thrown. The loom is or may be
arranged to make two revolutions for each shifting of the jacquard cards so that the
selected warps are raised and dropped twice in succession (or oftener if desired) before.
a fresh selection is made.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what we
claim is :-
1. The manufacture of tapestry, Brussels, plush or pile and similar fabrics sub-.
stantially in the improved manner hereinbefore described.
2. A tapestry, Brussels, plush, pile or similar fabric in the manufacture of which
the pattern warps are manipulated as described and so as to produce the same pattern
on both sides of the fabric whilst the coloured warps where not used for the pattern are.
floated between the plies as set forth.
3. A tapestry, Brussels, plush, pile or similar fabric composed as described of two
distinct plies bound together by warps which produce the same pattern on both sides.
each ply being separately bound or not by binding warps which do not cross from.
ply to ply.
Dated this Seventeenth day of December 1889.
CRUIKSHANK & FAIRWEATHER,
62, Saint Vincent Street, Glasgow, Agents.