Improvements in Button Hole Sewing Machines.
Year: 1886

page_text: Date of Application, 28th Dec., 1886
Specification Accepted, 28th Mar., 1888
[Communicated from abroad by JOHN ELIAKIM WHEELER, of Lynn, Massachusetts,
United States of America, Gentleman.]
Improvements in Button Hole Sewing Machines.
I, HENRY HARRIS LAKE, of the firm of Haseltine, Lake & Co., Patent Agents,
45 Southampton Buildings in the County of Middlesex do hereby declare the nature
of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement:—
This invention relates to button-hole sewing machines and has for its object to
provide a simple and efficient means for quickly forming or making the stitches, and
for also forming or sewing a bar across the end of the button-hole.
The said invention consists first, in the employment of two reciprocating needles,
the upper of which is straight and is not vibrated, and the lower of which is curved
and which are operated by suitable cams, as hereinafter specified; second in the
employment of a looping device and take-ups, in connection with two reciprocating
and non-vibrating needles; third, in the combination of the two reciprocating but
non-vibrating needles and stitch-forming devices with a positively operated or moved
button-hole clamping and holding-plate; fourth in the combination of the stitch-
forming devices employing a non-vibrating straight needle and a curved needle, with
the button-hole clamping feeding plate and mechanism for moving and oscillating the
plate in relation to the stitch forming devices whereby a bar of peculiar construction
is formed across the end of the button-hole. The invention further comprises various
details of construction and organization, to which special reference will be hereinafter
made.
In the accompanying drawings
Figure 1 is a front elevation of the machine, a portion of the frame being removed
to shew the operative parts beyond.
Figure 2 is a vertical central section of the machine without a portion of the
button-hole clamping mechanism.
Figure 3 is a plan view of the bed of the machine and parts below it.

page_text: Figure 4 is a plan view of the machine when in an inverted position.
Figure 5 is a vertical cross-section of the parts of the machine below the upper
needle, and a side elevation of the parts above it.
Figure 6 is a plan view of a portion of the bed, work-plate clamping and feeding
plate, and button hole clamping and feeding devices, shewing the position of the plate
during the operation of barring.
Figures 7, 8, 9 and 10 shew the different positions of the two needles in relation to
each other during the process of forming the stitch, to which referenco will be herein-
after made.
Figures 11 and 12 represent enlarged views of the lower looping devices.
Figure 13 is a view of a stitched button-hole.
Figure 14 is a view enlarged, representing the relation which the threads bear to
each other in forming or making the stitch.
Figure 15 is a view representing in plan enlarged the form of construction of
the barring stitch.
Figure 16 is a view in side elevation, and
Figure 17 in horizontal section, of a device for adjusting the position of the upper
needle and needle bar to which reference will hereinafter be made.
Figure 18 is a view in perspective of the looping mechanism.
Figure 19 is a view in perspective of a part thereof.
a
A is the bed of the machine, A¹ is a curved arm or bracket, preferably cast
integral with the remainder of the frame of the machine, having at its front end an
enlarged circular shell A2 for holding the cam which operates the upper or straight
reciprocating needle. The post A¹ supports the driving shaft which is suitably
mounted thereon, and which carries at its front end the cam disc A³, for reciprocating
the needle-bar A. This needle bar has suitable bearings in the block or cap a',
which is fastened to the end of the bracket or post A¹ and a cam-pin A2 which enters
a cam-groove a³, in the cam-disc A³. This cam-disc also has another cam for
operating the upper take-up to which reference will be hereinafter made.
needle-bar A4, supports the needle a having an eye in its point, and taking thread
from the spool as, through a suitable tension a³, and take-up a', guide a on the
upper part of the needle-bar, stationary guide aº, and guide a¹ at the lower end of the
needle-bar. The take-up is adapted to be thrown outward to produce a tension upon
the thread by the spring a", and it is moved inward against the pressure of the spring
and held until the time for the operation of the take-up by the edge-cam a¹³ shown in
dotted outline in Figure 5.
The
The take-up arm is pivotted at a¹ and its lower end a¹ is curved to rest against
the cam a¹³
It will be seen from this description that the upper needle has only a reciprocating
movement controlled by the cam. The time of its movements will be hereinafter
given in connection with those of the lower needle.
B is the work-plate of the machine, and it has the guiding-slot for controlling
the movement of the button-hole clamping and feeding-plate C. This plate C, has
jaws c c for spreading the button-hole and holding the material clamped while it is
being fed to the stitch-forming devices (see figure 6). It also has a spring held
guiding and feeding-pin (see Figure 5).
D DI are worm feeding rolls which engage the pin c. They are carried by the
shafts dd, and are rotated by a ratchet wheel d² on the shaft d, and a reciprocating
pawl which ongages the ratchet-wheel during the feeding movement of the plate, and
is held therefrom during the operation of barring as hereinafter described. The two
shafts dare connected by bevel gear, and a horizontally moving plate carrying
feed fingers, which engage the pin cat given intervals, as common in machines
having this form of plate and feed.
Figures 32, 33, 34 and 35 are detail views especially representing the relation of
the feed pawl for operating the clamp plate feed and a ratchet covering plate which
is adapted to be moved at the beginning of the barring of the button hole between the
ratchet wheel and feed pawl to stop the further forward feeding of the clamp plate,

page_text: Figure 36 is a view representing the spring guiding pin of the clamp plate and
the relation which it bears to the plate.
Figure 37 is a plan view of the bed plate with the clamp plate removed to show
the guiding slot which receives the spring pin of the clamp plate, also representing
portions of the devices which engage with the spring pin for feeding the clamp plate
at the beginning of the barring of the buttonhole, and also a recess extending from
the under surface of the clamp plate into which it is adapted to be moved by its
operating spring when released, as hereinafter specified.
Figures 38 and 39 represent the two positions of this pin in relation to the clamp
plate.
Figure 40 is a plan view of the clamp plate inverted representing the recess which
receives the reciprocating barring pin.
Figures 41 and 42 illustrate the clamp plate feeding mechanism.
Figuro 43 is a view of the slide plate for releasing the pin O and operating the
ratchet covering plate.
The clamping plate C is automatically fed by means of the spring held pin c which
extends through a guiding slot in the work plate, and the end of which enters the
worm upon the worm wheel D, and is by it moved forward until it engages the
horizontally rotating plate D2 carrying the feed fingers D³. This horizontally
rotating plate is shown in Figure 3 of the drawing and in Figure 41. This rotating
plate has a bevel gear which is connected with a bevel-gear of the worm D and a
bevel-gear upon the worm D', and the rotation of the plate causes one of the
projections D³ to engage the pin c² and causes it and the clamp plate to be moved
about the semicircular portion of the guide until the pin is brought into engagement
with the worm upon the worm wheel D¹ which then operates to move the pin and
the clamp plate forward in the guiding slot. This causes the clamp plate to have a
forward movement in relation to the stitch forming devices, then a half revolution in
relation thereto upon the button of the machine and then another forward movement,
and it is at the end of the last forward movement that the reciprocating pin or
block for oscillating the clamp plate is caused to be released and permitted to
operate to oscillate the clamp plate upon the pin c³ as a centre. The clamp plate_not
only releases the reciprocating pin or block O, but also causes the ratchet wheel
covering plate to be moved so as to be interposed between the ratchet teeth d and
the operating pawl d³, so that while the movement of the pawl 3 continues it does
not serve to turn the ratchet wheel riding upon the covering plate d³ and no move-
iment can then be communicated to the worm D, consequently the clamp plate comes
to rest so far as its feed movement is concerned, and simply oscillated by the pin
or block O.
To effect the movement of the ratchet covering plate and the pin or block O, tho
covering plate d is supported by an arm de (see Figures 32, 33, 34, 35 and 43) and
the spring pin or block O is mounted in its slide d' upon a spring which serves to
throw it upward in relation to the slide when it is released, and it is held in its
depressed or lowest position by means of a section d' of the slide plate D*. This slido
plate is shaped as represented in Figure 43 and so that a projection " extending
upward therefrom shall be in line with the forward end of the clamp plate, and the
clamp plate as it approaches the end of its feed movement comes in contact with this
block and moves the slide plate sufficiently to cause the ratchet covering plate
be interposed between the ratchet and the feed pawl d³, and to draw the section or
latch from over the pin O, so that its spring d serves to move it upward into a
position to engage a section of the clamp plate which is then over it, and as it is
provided with an intermittent reciprocating movement it acts to oscillato the clamp
plate.
to
The slide d' holding the pin or block O is connected by a link with the cam o. The
clamp plate is reciprocated by the pin or block O as many times as may be desired,
generally four or five times. The machine is then stopped and the clamp plate
returned to its original position by lifting the spring pin and turning the plato
upon the central button so that the pin in the guiding slot b is again brought into

page_text: engagement with the worm D. Upon this movement of the clamp plate the slide
plate is returned to its original or normal position by the springs (110 (see Figures 3
and 43) and this causes the pin O to be locked down by the latch, and the ratchet
covering plate d³ to be moved away from the ratchet so that upon the next starting
of the machine the pawl d³ may be operated to turn the worms and feed the clamp
plate.
E is the throat-plate or button of the machine, and e the throat. The throat-
plate or button is recessed upon its underside to permit the reciprocating movement
of the clamping-plate in barring, and the clamping-plate is held against the throat-
plate as it is fed by the spring-held roll e¹ (see Figure 6). F is the lower or curved
needle. It is supported by the arm which is pivotted at f¹ to a support or bracket
extending downward from the bed of the machine, (see Figures 7, 8, 9 and 10). This
needle-carrying arm falso has a downward extending arm f which is connected with
the slide-bar 3 by a link f. The slide-bar is reciprocated at desired intervals by the
link and cam-groove, in the cam-disc f at the lower end of the vertical
shaft. This vertical shaft is operated from the main shaft a by means of the
bevel-gear. The curved needle F is so located and moved that it is caused to
pass through the throat e and the eye or opening of the button hole, and to pass the
upper needle closely to it and above the material as will hereinafter be described. To
vary the extent of its movement, I have provided the arm with a slot, in which
the end of the link is made adjustable. The curved needle F has an eye in its
point, and thread is taken from the spool G through guide 7, take-up g', and
guide carried by the arm. The take-up g' preferably is a spring-arm or rod
attached at g³ to the bed of the machine, and moved by a pin g', attached to the
link (see Figure 2) in one direction, and returned at the proper interval of time,
or upon the backward movement of the link f
The looping mechanism is arranged beneath the throat-plate, and comprises three
elements, first, a loop-holding point K (see Figures 11, 12 and 18) which comprises a
thin plate rigidly fastened in place and having a point arranged to project into the
throat of the machine and turn upward, and adapted to engage. or catch the loop or
thread formed and carried by the upper needle and at the end of its downward move-
ment; second, a movable point or loop-engaging device M which is oscillated or
reciprocated close to the line of reciprocation of the upper needle, and is adapted to
engage or catch the loop or thread carried thereby and after it has been engaged or
caught by the point &, and move the loop in a horizontal or lateral direction; third a
loop spreader m, which is operated or moved by a curved arm m¹ projecting from the
arm², carrying the loop engaging point M, and which is adapted to engage the
thread or loop after it has been seized or taken by the point M and carried laterally,
and operates to spread or open it in a direction substantially at right angles to the line
of movement of the point M, and so as to open the loop and provide a passage or
space through which the lower curved needle may pass, the loop at that time being
held at three places, namely by the stationary point k, by the laterally movable
point M, and by the spreading point m.
The operation and construction of these devices are well shewn in Figures 11
and 12.
The piece m² which carries the point M, and the spreader operating arm m² are
attached at m to a post or shaft m supported by the arm bracket m and this shaft
carries at its lower end a lever or arm m, which is connected with the lever m² by
means of the long link m8 (see Figure 4) and this lever m' is a bent lever, pivotted
at m to the bed of the machine, and has an arm m¹ carrying at its end a cam-pin m
which is operated by the cam-groove m¹ in the cam-disc ms on the vertical shaft f³.
The piece or part m² is so pivotted that the loop-engaging point M upon the swinging
movement of the part is caused to engage the loop or thread.
The loop-spreader m is a point having a notch or recess n (see Figures 12 and 19)
at the end of an arm n', which is pivotted at n². This arm n¹ also has a short pro-
jection or arm n³ carrying a pin n', which is so placed that the curved arm m³ upon
the movement of the piece or part m², comes in contact with the pin and by its

page_text: continued movement moves the spreader m inward, or towards the throat, so that it
engages the loop which has been picked up by the point M and moves it from the
point drawing the thread as it moves and enlarging the loop until the parts take the
position represented in Figure 11, and after the passage of the lower curved needle
through the loop that is formed, the part m² returns to its original position, releases
the spreader m which is then returned to its original position by means of the
spring n.
The reciprocating pin or block O for oscillating the clamping plate, is caused to
make a full reciprocation or motion, once in every two reciprocations of the needles.
It is operated by a cam o, substantially as described but the cam is arranged to make
one revolution to every two revolutions of the cams operating the needles. This is
accomplished by mounting the cam o upon the stud o¹, and providing it with a
gear o, which meshes with the gear o upon the shaft f³.
In operation the work is placed upon the clamp-plate, the button hole spread by the
clamping and holding jaws, and the machine started. The lower curved needle is
first moved up through the throat and the hole or slit of the button hole, carrying
with it the thread from the lower spool, which is carried past or by the line of recipro-
cation of the upper needle, which at that time is in its highest position, and when
the curved needle has reached its highest position the two needles bear the relation to
each other shown in figure 8. The lower curved needle is then moved downward
very slightly, sufficiently, however, to cause the thread to bulge or extend away from
the needle, and simultaneously with this movement the upper needle begins to move
downward, and its point passes through the loop of the lower thread, carrying with
it the upper thread. The upper needle is moved downward, carrying with it tho
upper thread, and immediately starts back or moves upward, and the loop is caught
by the stationary loop-holder or point . The movable point MI of the looping device
immediately engages the loop of the upper thread thus caught, and moves it laterally,
while the upper needle is moving upwardly, and the spreader m, operates to engage
the thread carried by the point M, and to open or spread the loop, in order that the
curved needle may enter it on its upward movement. Meanwhile the lower curved
needle has been moved downward to its lowest position, and after the upper needle
has reached its highest position, and while the loop of the upper thread is held open
by the loop-holder and spreader, it is moved upward, passing through the loop of the
upper thread, and carrying with it the lower thread, when the looper and spreader are
returned to their original position releasing the loop of the upper thread. This
alternating action of the needles and looper is still further illustrated in figures 9
and 10, and produces a stitch upon the edge of the button-hole which is represented
in figures 13 and 14. Of course it will be understood that the straight needle passes
through the material parallel with the edge of the button-hole.
It will be understood that the clamping plate has an intermittent forward movement
between each reciprocation of the needles, there being an interval of time immediately
after the completion of the upward movement of the upper needle in which this
movement takes place. It will also be understood of course, that the cord used in'
binding button-holes is employed, and it is fed as in other machines.
It will also be understood that the stitching of the button-hole begins at the inner
end thereof, and continues around from that end along one side, about the eye, and
down the other side to the end of the hole, and that the barring stitch is then made
by the oscillation of the clamping plate moving the material backward and forward
between the two needles, and that this continues as an automatic movement without
stopping the machine.
We have provided the clamping plate with one complete oscillation for every two
reciprocations of the needles in order that there may be formed a barring stitch
across the end of the binding cord to stay the button-hole, which somewhat resembles
a figure 8 turned upon its edge; that is, the first stitch extends from the line in
continuation of the centre of the button-hole to the outer edge of the line of stitches
upon one side, and the next stitch upon the movement of the plate extends from the
point in continuation of the line of stitching upon the other side of the button-hole

page_text: to a line in continuation of the central line of the button-hole, as represented in
figure 15. This stitch provides a very efficient, strong and durable way of securing
the ends of the cord together, and barring, staying and finishing the end of the
button-hole.
Both the upper and lower take-ups are so operated or timed as to slacken the
tension upon the threads and cause the formation of loops at the ends of the
respective movements of the needles. For instance, immediately upon the end of
the upward movement of the curved needle F, the thread is loosened by the move-
ment of the lower take-up, and upon a slight downward movement of the needle a
loop is partly formed at the end of the needle through which the upper needle
immediately moves, drawing with it the upper thread, likewise at the end of the
downward movement of the upper needle the tension is slackened by the upper take-
up so that a loop is formed at the end of the needle in a like manner.
It is desirable to adjust the upper needle a in relation to the centre of the throat
or line of reciprocation of the curved needle in order that the length of the stitch
may be varied. This is accomplished by moving the cap or block carrying the
needle bar outwardly in relation to the cam A3 and the end of the bracket or arm A¹.
This is accomplished by means of a movable ring P, represented in figures 5, 16,
and 17, which has a number of inclined surfaces p, on its outer surface, arranged
to bear against a similar number of inclined surfaces p¹, arranged in the inner
surface of the block or cap carrying the needle-bar. It is obvious that upon the
release of the screws 2² which fasten the cap to the bracket, sufficiently, and the
turning of the ring P, that the position of the cap in relation to the end of the arm
or bracket and to the cam, may be varied, being moved inwardly or outwardly, and
after each adjustment is made the screws p2 are tightened. The ring P is moved by
a knob p³, fastened to a pin extending through a slot or recess formed in the head of
the bracket or arm, as represented in figure 1.
Of course this movement of the part carrying the needle bar causes the cam pin
attached thereto to be moved inward or outward in relation to the cam groove a³,
and the cam groove must of course be made deep enough to allow such movement to
take place. This movement of the needle bar varies the position of the upper needle
laterally in relation to the throat, and of course affords means by which the length of
the stitch may be changed or varied.
In the following described Figures of the drawings I have shown various
modifications in construction, which do not change, essentially, the features of the
invention, while they provide a somewhat stronger and more durable, and, for certain
kinds of work, more efficient construction than that above indicated.
Figure 20 is a view of the machine in vertical central section, showing these
variations.
Figure 21 is a view in front elevation of the upper arm or bracket and its cap.
Figure 22 is a view in plan of the machine shown in figure 20, inverted.
Figure 23 is an enlarged view in section and elevation, illustrating the needles
and loop-forming devices.
Figures 24, 25, 26, 27, and 28 refer to the loop forming devices or mechanism; and
Figures 29, 30 and 31 to the needle.
In these drawings A is the upper or straight needle a is the take-up for the upper
thread; it comprises an arm a¹, which is pivotted at a² to the cap a³ at the end of
the bracket at. It has a spring aº, by which it is lifted or moved upwardly, and it is
moved downwardly by a pin a, fastened to the needle-bar projecting through the
slot a' in the cap of the machine, and arranged to bear upon the upper surface of the
take-up arm. This upper surface is provided with an inclined section a², upon which
the pin bears in moving it downward, and with a section a10, which, when the take-up
has been moved down sufficiently far becomes parallel with the slot or line of move-
ment of the pin, so that the pin, needle-bar and needle continue their downward
movement while the take-up remains stationary, and the take-up is held by the pin
in this stationary position until the needle-bar in its upward movement lifts the pin
above the straight section a10, when the spring returns to its highest position.

page_text: B is the throat of the machine; C is the lower curved needle; it is supported by a
block or carriage which is supported in a curved guide-way or recess c', in the side
of the arm or bracket c², fastened to the under surface of the bed of the machine.
This block or carriage c, is provided with a movement to or very nearly to the under
surface of the work-plate, approaching the plate as nearly as possible in order that
the curved needle may be made as short as possible, and may be rigidly held or
supported during its reciprocation by securing it to the upper end of a block or
carriage movable in a suitable recess or guide-way, we are enabled to obtain this
result in a cheap and desirable way.
The block or carriage e is movable in the curved guide-way, which is struck upon an
are of a circle, by means of a cam c³, which is like the cam above described, the slide-
bar c and the link c', which connects the end of the slide-bar with a pin or post c°,
extending laterally from the block or carriage c. The needle is also provided with
a recess c, formed in the edge nearest the line of reciprocation of the straight needle A,
and near the point of the needle.
The take-up D, for the lower thread instead of being pivotted to a stationary point,
as above described, is made movable, or travels with the carriage or block carrying
the curved needle. This enables us to operate it more closely, or finer than the take-
up above described can be operated. It is, moreover, less complicated in construction,
and works more easily. It is pivotted to the end of the slide-bar c, so as to swing
vertically in relation thereto. It is moved upward upon the upper movement of the
curved needle by means of the inclined or wedge-shaped surface d, upon its upwardly
bent end d, which is arranged to strike a surface or shoulder ², at the proper
interval, and by riding thereon throw the end of the take-up upward to slacken the
thread immediately upon the end of the upward movement of the curved needle, so
as to form upon the end thereof a loop through which the upper needle immediately
passes. After the upper needle has entered this loop this take-up arm is immediately
moved downward upon the backward movement of the slide-bar c', and of the curved
needle, by means of the spring d³, which is fastened to the slide-bar c', or link c³, and
bears against the take up bar.
The upper thread loop-engaging mechanism varies from that first described in that
the upper thread loop is caught by a sliding point or hook, and is by that point or
hook moved to a position to bring the thread opposite the spreading point or hook
which is immediately operated or moved to open the loop, it being operated by the
further movement of the bar or block carrying the loop-engaging point as it continues
its movements away from the throat, the movement being stopped for an instant to
permit the upper needle to draw up the thread to bring it to a shorter angle in order
that the spreading hook may more surely engage it. The loop when thus caught and
spread will be held by the upper needle, which will have lifted above the work, and by
the loop-engaging hook or arm and by the loop-spreading hook or arm, which have
been moved away from each other, so that the loop is held spread or open in the line
of reciprocation or movement of the lower curved needle. The lower curved needle
upon passing through the loop, taking its thread with it, the spreading hook or arm
and the loop-engaging hook or arm are immediately returned to their original position
to release the loop.
E is the loop-engaging hook or arm. It is provided with a straight horizontal
movement by means of the slide-bar e, to the end of which is secured the lever e¹2
pivotted at e, the link e, the bent lever e, pivotted at es, and the cam e, the arm e
of the bent lever having a cam-pin which enters a cau-groove in the cam-disc. The
cam is different from that above described in that it moves the loop-engaging-hook
or arm E parallel with the line of reciprocation of the upper needle to engage the
upper thread, and then becomes stationary while the upper needle continues its upward
movement, and it is then immediately moved forward again to cause the loop-
spreading arm or hook to engage the thread, and also to spread the loop.
I is the loop-spreading hook or arm. It is formed upon the inner side of the
curved arm, which is pivotted at f¹ to the under surface of the bed-plate, and there
is an extension which has the curved edge or cam f³, which extends across the

page_text: path or line of reciprocation of the loop-engaging hook, and a cam-pin or stud f
carried by the slide-bar or plate upon which the loop-engaging hook or arm is formed,
is adapted to come in contact with this cam or curved surface f³, immediately upon
the beginning of the second portion of the outward movement of the loop engaging-
hook, and to move the loop-spreading hook F transversely across the line of reciproca-
tion or movement of the loop-engaging and carrying hook and so that the point F
shall engage one of the threads of the loop, and shall carry it transversely to the loop-
engaging hook, so that by the continued movement of the loop-engaging and the
loop-spreading hooks the loop is opened sufficiently wide to receive the lower needle,
upon the reverse movement of the loop-engaging hook the loop-spreading hook is
returned to its original position by means of the spring f³.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed as communicated to
me by my foreign correspondent I declare that what I claim is
First In a button-hole stitching machine, the combination of a movable clamp-
plate carrying, spreading and clamping jaws for holding the material to be stitched,
and presenting it to the stitch-forming devices, with the throat e and the reciprocating
straight needle and reciprocating curved needle all substantially as described.
Second The combination in a button-hole stitching machine, of a clamp-plate for
holding and presenting the material to the stitch forming devices, and mechanism for
moving the same intermittingly thereto, with a throat, a reciprocating straight needle,
a reciprocating curved needle, and appropriate looping mechanism, substantially as
described.
Third The combination in a button-hole stitching machine of a clamp-plate for
holding and presenting the material to the stitch-forming devices, and feeding
mechanism for moving it thereto with an intermittent motion, with the throat of the
machine, the reciprocating straight needle, the reciprocating curved needle, the take-
ups and looping-mechanism, and devices for automatically stopping the forward
movement of the clamping plate, and at the same instant providing it with an
oscillating movement in relation to the stitch-forming devices, all substantially as
described.
Fourth The combination in botton-hole stitching machine of a reciprocating needle
with the looping mechanism comprising the stationary loop holder, a loop-engaging
point positively operated as described, and a spreader operated by contact of the looper
or movable arm therewith, substantially as described.
Fifth The combination in a sewing machine of the throat of the machine, the
looper, positively operated as described, having a point and an operating arm, with
with the loop spreading arm having the notched spreading point and a pin or projection
adapted to be engaged by the sail operating arm and the spring substantially as
described.
Sixth In a sewing machine, a loop spreader adapted to be moved positively in one
direction and by a spring in the opposite direction, substantially as described.
Seventh-A looping mechanism or devices comprising the two parts m², none of
which is provided with a point M and arm m³, and is oscillated or moved at stated
intervals, and the other of which has a point m, and is adapted to be operated or moved
by the other part m² in one direction, substantially as described.
Eighth The combination of the straight needle a and its operating cam a³, tho
curved needle F, and its operating cam fe, and the throat e substantially as described.
Ninth The combination of the curved needle F, the lever f, the link and the
slide-bar, and cam, substantially as described.
Tenth The combination of the needle F, operated as described, with the take up g¹,
moved positively in one direction by the mechanism operating the needle F,
substantially as specified.
Eleventh The combination in a button-hole stitching and barring machine, of the
shaft a, a cam-disc A³, carried thereby, having the cam-groove a³, and an edge-cam a¹³,
with the needle bar A, and the take-up rod a', and spring a", substantially as described.

page_text: Twelfth The combination of the clamp-plate and the work-clamping devices carried
thereby, the stitch-forming mechanism employing a straight needle and suitable
looping devices, with the devices for oscillating the clamp-plate to move the material
laterally in relation to the two needles, whereby a barring stitch is formed, substantially
as described.
Thirteenth-The combination of the stud or block O, for reciprocating or oscillating
the clamping plate, with its operating cam o, shaft, and connecting gearing o³, o³,
substantially as described.
Fourteenth In a button-hole stitching machine, the combination of a work-holding
or supporting plate, provided with an intermittent forward movement about the throat
of the machine, a reciprocating needle mounted above the clamping plate and carrying
one thread, a curved needle mounted below the clamp plate and carrying a second
thread, adapted to be reciprocated through the button-hole and loop-forming devices
below the clamp-plate, the needles having the movements in relation to each other
specified, substantially as described.
Fifteenth The combination in a button-hole stitching machine, of a reciprocating
straight needle with a looping mechanism comprising a laterally moving loop-engaging
point, M, and a spreader m, arranged to move across the line of the movement of the
engaging point M, and operated by contact of the arm m³ therewith substantially as
described.
Sixteenth-In a button-hole stitching machine, the combination with suitable looping
devices of a vibrating straight needle and means for varying the lateral position of
the needle substantially as described.
Seventeenth-The combination of the needle-bar, its holding block, the support
therefor, and an interposed ring having projections provided with inclined surfaces
arranged to bear upon the inclined surfaces of said holding bar or support, sub-
stantially as described.
Eighteenth The combination of the needle bar, its holding block, the support
therefor, and an interposed ring having projections provided with inclined surfaces
arranged to bear upon the inclined surfaces of said block or support, and devices for
rigidly locking the neodle-bar, block or cap to its support or head, all substantially as
described.
Nineteenth In a button-hole stitching machine, in combination with the recipro-
cating straight needle, a curved needle supported by a block or carriage held in a
curved guide in close proximity to the throat of the machine, and reciprocated by a
cam, substantially as described.
Twentieth-The combination in a button-hole stitching machine, of the upper
needle, the lower curved needle carried or supported by a block movable in a curved
guide or recess placed closely to the throat of the machine, with a take-up horizontally
and vertically movable, substantially as described.
Twentyfirst-In a button-hole stitching machine, the spreading device, comprising
a horizontally movable loop-engaging hook or arm adapted to be moved to engage the
upper thread presented to it by the upper needle, with a loop-spreading hook or point
movable transversely across the line of movement of the loop-engaging hook or point,
whereby the loop is opened or spread, and is supported by the upper needle, and by
the loop-engaging hook or point, and by the loop-spreading hook or point, substantially
as described.
Twentysecond The combination of the loop-engaging hook or point, adapted to be
moved upon a straight line for engaging the thread presented to it by the upper
needle, a cam-pin or stud carried thereby, a curved arni having a curved surface or
cam against which the cam pin or stud engages, and carrying or supporting a loop-
spreading hook or point, and a cam operated to move the loop-engaging book or
point, to then hold the same while the upper needle continues to lift, and to again
move the same, causing the operation or transverse movement of the loop-spreading
hook or point, substantially as described.
Twentythird In a button-hole stitching machine, the curved needle, having a recess
near its point, substantially as and for the purposes set forth.
R

page_text: Twentyfourth-The combination in a button-hole stitching machine, of a recipro-
cating straight needle, a reciprocating curved needle, a take-up for the upper thread
arranged in close proximity thereto, substantially as described.
Twenty fifth-The combination in a button hole stitching machine, of a recipro-
cating upper needle, a reciprocating lower curved needle, an upper take-up arranged in
close proximity to the upper needle, and adapted to take thread directly therefrom,
and a lower take-up movable horizontally and vertically, substantially as described.
Dated this 28th day of December 1886-
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
45, Southampton Buildings, London,
Agents for the Applicant.