IMPROVEMENTS IN SHAPING, DRESSING AND FINISHING HATS, AND IN APPARATUS FOR THE PURPOSE
Year: 1880

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Edgar Edmonds, of the Firm of Robertson, Brooman, and
Company, of 166, Fleet Street, in the City of London, Patent Agents, for an
Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN SHAPING, DRESSING AND FINISHING HATS,
AND IN APPARATUS FOR THE PURPOSE." A communication from abroad by
Simon Piron, of 17, Boulevard Saint Martin, Paris, France.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Edgar Edmonds at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 22nd April 1880.
EDGAR EDMONDS, of the Firm of Robertson, Brooman, and Company, of 166,
Fleet Street, in the City of London, Patent Agents. "IMPROVEMENTS IN SHAPING,
DRESSING, AND FINISHING HATS, AND IN APPARATUS FOR THE PURPOSE." (A com-
munication from abroad by Simon Piron, of 17, Boulevard Saint Martin, Paris,
France.)
The object of the present Specification is to describe with the aid of the annexed
Drawings and to claim certain improvements on the system of shaping, dressing,
and finishing hats described in a previous Patent, dated 3rd April 1878, No. 1312.
In practice these improvements have been found very advantageous, and have
reference to the " blocking machine," to the "iron-holder" or support on the
machine for ironing the crown of a hat, and to the "brim press" or apparatus for
pressing the brim of a hat.
Figures 1, 2, 3, and 4 of the annexed Drawings show one of the particular
arrangements of the "blocking machine." Figure 1 is a general view in elevation;
Figure 2, an end view; Figure 3, a plan view; and Figure 4, a general sectional
view in elevation, corresponding to Figure 1.
In all these Figures the same letters of reference refer to the same constituent
parts of the whole, of which the following is an explanatory description.
A is the general frame, having two horizontal arms a, a, which are hollowed
out on their underside, the frame having also a vertical arm a' cast with the frame
or affixed to it, as shown in the Drawing.
B is a standard, movable around a vertical axis supported by the arm a', which
carries at its upper end a screw threaded piece b, having an adjusting screw b¹ with
a hand wheel 63 at its upper end.

page_text: C, C, are rims joined to the general frame by hinge rods c, c, and each formed
of two principal parts, viz., one part C¹ which is placed on the upper part of the
frame A, and in which are arranged the metal ring or rings similar to that shown
at c', corresponding to the exterior circular form of the crown of the hat; and
another part C, provided with a handle c², which may be closed down on to the
first part and be fastened to it by the hook and handle c³.
When the rims C are closed down on one or other of the arms a, a, they are
fastened by the little spring bolts and detents a³, a³.
D, D, are nuts which can turn without displacement from their axis in sockets
a², a², cast in a piece with the arms a, a, on the frame, and terminated at their
upper ends by a certain number of arms or handles, as shown at d, d, so as to act
as a fly or hand wheel. In the above nuts are screws d', d', keyed or pinned at
their lower ends into one of the ends of the guide pieces d³, d, the other end
sliding in grooves or channels a, a, cast on the flat parts of the arms a, a, of the
general frame A.
E is a hollow closed cylindro-conical metal piece or chamber, in the interior of
which steam may be introduced by the introduction pipe and cock e.
The steam before filling the interior of the said metal piece or chamber is dried
by passing through a series of perforated discs e¹, e¹, el, acts on the crown of the
hat and on the brim through holes formed in the thickness of the part C, and then
leaves by the escape pipe e.
The following is the method of proceeding, using only one and the same block
(as before mentioned), for hats with the saine opening, but which may be of
different heights.
The part C of one of the rims being in the position shown in Figures 1, 2, 3,
and 4, the hat to be blocked is placed in the said part C', when it occupies the
position also shown on the same Figures by dotted lines. The part C of the rim
is closed down on to the part C, and the hook c³ is fastened so as to secure the two
parts C' and C² of the riun and securely hold the rim of the hat between them.
The cock on the steam introduction pipe e is then opened for a few moments and
the steam comes in contact with the crown and brim of the hat, and into the crown
of the hat is introduced a wooden "block," the section of which is shown in
Figure 4 in dotted lines. The standard B is then brought into a plane perpendicular
to that shown in Figures 1, 2, 3, and 4, and the screw b¹ is caused to descend by
means of the hand wheel b in such a manner as to enter well into the crown of
the hat, after which the standard B is then brought back into its first position, and
by the aid of the handle c² the whole, that is to say, the rim, the hat, and the
block, is then turned over onto one of the arms a, as shown on the left arm of the
frame A in Figures 1, 2, 3, and 4.
The crown of the hat is thus brought to view, and by means of the arins or
handles d of the nut D the screw d' is caused to ascend until the latter pressing
against the block causes the true tension which is required on the crown.
Whilst the crown of the hat thus stretched and the brim remain on the block
the same series of operations as those just described is made on another hat by
means of the other rim, and so on in such manner that there is no time lost, but
the said operations are effected by mechanical means whereby they are less
fatiguing, surer, and more rapid.
"
The improved "iron-holder or carrier to be employed concurrently with the
"machine for ironing the crown " will now be described, and is shown in Figures 5
and 6.
It is required, as before mentioned, to dispense with the greater part of the
fatigue caused by the strong elastic pressure which should be produced by the hand
of the workman.
For this purpose c is a board or support in two parts at right angles, which is
displaced at will, and which may be caused to revolve entirely around the hat on
the table A, whilst the said hat with its block turns mechanically around the hori-
zontal shaft or axis in such a manner that the iron c' has a to and fro movement

page_text: caused through the suitably regulated spiral springs c³, c², pressing the iron against
the oval shape of the hat, and aided by the roller-carriage c³.
Respecting the "brim-press" with its improvements it is shown in the Figures 7,
8, 9, and 10.
Figure 7 is a general view in elevation; Figure 8, an end view; Figure 9, a
plan view; and Figure 10, a general elevation in section, corresponding to
Figure 7.
In the Figures the same letters of reference indicate the same constituent parts,
of the whole of which the following is a description :-
A is the supporting frame or column; B is an iron table or plate fastened by
bolts on to the upper part of the support A, and carrying on one of its longer sides
a groove b. On this table near its ends are fixed the two lower brim blocks b¹, b¹,
each having two vertical gudgeons 6ª, bª, bª, bª, intended to serve as stops.
C is a screw press, composed,-
1. Of a curved raised pieco c, whose ends are dovetailed and embrace the edges
of the table B, and is provided with three rollers, one of which, c', carried by one
of the branches of the curved piece runs on the flat of the said table B, whilst the
two others c², c², mounted on the other branch by the aid of a special piece c³ run
in the groove b on the said table B.
2. Of a press screw e turning in the nut formed by the upper part c³ of the
curved piece c, and terminated at its upper end by a hand wheel co.
3. Of the upper brim block c, into which takes the lower end of the press
screw c', which is free to turn on its axis. This brim block is hollow, and channels
or conduits are arranged "ad hoc," which allows the passage of a current of steam
into the interior, which current is conducted there by the flexible pipe c³, and
escapes by the other flexible pipe c³.
This brim block has four angular projections e¹0, clo, clo, clo, two on each side,
butting at one time against the vertical gudgeons 62, 63, on the left hand lower
brim block, and at another time against the vertical gudgeons 62, 63, of the right
hand lower brim block.
The following is the method of proceeding :-The various parts of the machine
being in the positions shown in the Drawings, a hat is placed in the lower right
hand block bi so that the brim rests on the said block; the screw press arrange-
ment C is then brought above this block, and by means of the screw c' and the
hand wheel c the upper brim block c² which is heated by the steam is lowered,
and by reason of the mechanical arrangements before indicated, that is to say, the
angular projections co and the gudgeons b³, it descends without turning.
Finally, the brim of the hat is allowed to remain under this pressure for a short
time.
During this time another hat is placed in the left hand lower brim block and
the same series of operations recommenced, and so on alternately in such manner
that no time is lost.
It is also to be observed that in consequence of the circulation of steam in
the upper hollow brim block c it is no longer necessary to present the brim of the
hat to a fire for a certain time before subjecting it to pressure.
In conclusion an observation may be made which is common to both the "brim
press" and the "blocking machine" previously described, which is, that it is better
to cover with felt most of the metallic parts of the said machines which work in
contact with the brim of the hat, the interposition of felt preventing any bad
workmanship in the operations.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said Edgar Edmonds in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 22nd October
1880.
EDGAR EDMONDS, of the Firm of Robertson, Brooman, and Company, of 166,
Fleet Street, in the City of London, Patent Agents. "IMPROVEMENTS IN SHAPING,
DRESSING, AND FINISHING HATS, AND IN APPARATUS FOR THE PURPOSE."
(A communication from abroad by Simon Piron, of 17, Boulevard Saint Martin,
Paris, France.)
The object of the present Specification is to describe with the aid of the annexed
Drawings, and to claim certain improvements on the system of shaping, drossing,
and finishing hats described in a previous Patent, dated 3rd April 1878, No. 1312.
In practice these improvements have been found very advantageous, and have
reference to the "blocking machine," to the "iron holder" or support on the
machine for ironing the crown of a hat, and to the “brim press' or apparatus for
pressing the brim of a hat.
"
Figures 1, 2, 3, and 4 of the annexed Drawings show one of the particular
arrangements of the "blocking machine." Figure 1 is a general view in elevation ;
Figure 2, an end view; Figure 3, a plan view; and Figure 4 a general sectional
view in elevation corresponding to Figure 1. In all these Figures the same letters
of reference refer to the same constituent parts of the whole, of which the following.
is an explanatory description:-
A is the general frume having two horizontal arms a, a, which are hollowed out
on their underside, the frame having also a vertical arm a¹ cast with the frame, or
affixed to it, as shown in the Drawing.
B is a standard movable around a vertical axis supported by the arm a¹ which
carries at its upper end a screw threaded piece b, having an adjusting screw b¹ with
a hand wheel b at its upper end.
C, C, are rings or rims joined to the general frame by hinge rods c, c, and cach
formed of two principal parts, viz., one part C which is placed on the upper part
of the frame A, and in which are arranged the metal ring or rings similar to that
shown at c', corresponding to the exterior circular form of the crown of the hat,
and another part C² provided with a handle c² which may be closed down on to the
first part and be fastened to it by the hook and handle c. When the rims C are
closed down on one or other of the arms a, a, they are fastened by the little spring
bolts and detents a³, a³.
D, D, are nuts which can turn without displacement from their axis in sockets
a², a², cast in a piece with the arms a, a, on the frame, and terminated at their
upper ends by a certain number of arms or handles, as shown at d, d, so as to act
as a fly or hand wheel. In the above nuts are screws d', d', keyed or pinned at
their lower ends into one of the ends of the guide pieces d, d², the other end sliding
in grooves or channels a³, a³, cast on the flat parts of the arms a, a, of the general
frame A.
E is a hollow closed cylindro-conical metal piece or chamber, in the interior of
which steam may be introduced by the introduction pipe and cock e. The steam
before filling the interior of the said metal piece or chamber is dried by passing
through a series of perforated discs e¹, e, el, acts on the crown of the hat and on the
brim through holes formed in the thickness of the part C, and then leaves by the
escape pipe e³.
The following is the method of proceeding, using only one and the same block (as
before mentioned) for hats with the same sized opening, but which may be of
different heights.
The part Č¹ of one of the rims being in the position shown in Figures 1, 2, 3, and
4, the hat to be blocked is placed in the said part C', when it occupies the position
also shown on the same Figures by dotted lines; the part C³ of the rim is closed

page_text: down onto the part C', and the hook is fastened so as to secure the two parts C¹
and C of the rim, and securely hold the brim of the hat between them. The cock
on the steam introduction pipe e is then opened for a few moments, and the steam
comes in contact with the crown and brim of the hat, and into the crown of the hat
is introduced a wooden "block," the section of which is shown in Figure 4 in dotted
lines.
The standard B is then brought into a plane perpendicular to that shown in
Figures 1, 2, 3, and 4, and the screw b' is caused to descend by means of the hand
wheel in such a manner as to enter well into the crown of the hat. After which
the standard B is then brought back into its first position, and by the aid of the
handle c³ the whole, that is to say, the rim, the hat and the block is then turned
over onto one of the arms a, as shown on the left arm of the frame A in Figures 1,
2, 3, and 4.
The crown of the hat is thus brought to view, and by means of the arins or
handles d of the nut D, the screw d' is caused to ascend, until the latter pressing
against the block, causes the true tension which is required on the crown.
Whilst the crown of the hat thus stretched and the brim remain on the block,
the same series of operations as those just described is made on another hat by
means of the other rim, and so on in such manner that there is no time lost, but
the said operations are effected by mechanical means, whereby they are less
fatiguing, surer, and more rapid. The improved "iron-holder" or carrier to be
"will now be
employed concurrently with the "machine for ironing the crown
described, and is shown in Figures 5 and 0.
It is required, as before mentioned, to dispense with the greater part of the
fatigue caused by the strong elastic pressure which should be produced by the hand
of the workinan.
For this purpose c is a board or support in two parts at right angles, which is
displaced at will and which may be caused to revolve entirely around the hat on
the table A whilst the said hat, with its block, turns mechanically around the
horizontal shaft or axis in such a manner that the iron c' has a to and fro move-
ment, caused through the suitably regulated spiral springs c, c, pressing the iron
against the oval shape of the hat and aided by the roller-carriage c³.
Respecting the "brim press," with its improvements, it is shown in the Figures 7,
8, 9, and 10.
Figure 7 is a general view in elevation; Figure 8 an end view; Figure 9 a plan
view, and Figure 10 a general elevation in section corresponding to Figure 7.
In the Figures the same letters of reference indicato the same constituent parts
of the whole, of which the following is a description :-
=
A is the supporting frame or column; B is an iron table or plate fastened by bolts
onto the upper part of the support A, and carrying on one of its longer sides a
groove b. On this table, near its ends, are fixed the two lower brim blocks b', b',
each having two vertical gudgeons b³, b², b², b², intended to serve as stops.
C is a screw press, composed,-
1. Of a curved raised piece c whose ends are dovetailed and embrace the edges of
the table B, and is provided with three rollers, one of which c' carried by one of
the branches of the curved piece runs on the flat of the said table B, whilst the two
others c³, c³, mounted on the other branch by the aid of a special piece c³, run in the
groove b on the said table B.
2. Of a press screw c' turning in the nut formed by the upper part c³ of the
curved piece c, and terminated at its upper end by a hand wheel co
3. Of the upper brim block c' into which takes the lower end of the press screw c,
which is free to turn on its axis; this brim block is hollow, and channels or conduits
are arranged "ad hoc," which allows the passage of a current of steam into the
interior, which current is conducted there by the flexible pipe c³, and escapes by the
other flexible pipe c. This brim block has four angular projections clo, co, clo, clo,
two on each side, butting at one time against the vertical gudgeons b³, b², on the

page_text: "
left hand lower brim block, and at another time against the vertical gudgeons b³, ¿ª,
of the right hand lower brim block.
The following is tho method of proceeding :-The various parts of the machino
being in the positions shown in the Drawings, a hat is placed in the lower right
hand block 6', so that the brim rests on the said block; the screw press arrange-
ment C is then brought above this block, and by means of the screw c' and the hand
wheel the upper brim block c7, which is heated by the steam, is lowered, and by
reason of the mechanical arrangements before indicated, that is to say, the angular
projections c¹º and the gudgeons b², it descends without turning. Finally, the brim
of the hat is allowed to remain under this pressure for a short time. During this
time another hat is placed in the left hand lower brim block, and the same series
of operations recommenced, and so on alternately in such manner that no time
is lost.
It is also to be observed that in consequence of the circulation of the steam in
the upper hollow brim block c' is is no longer necessary to present the brim of the
hat to a fire for a certain time before subjecting it to pressure.
In conclusion an observation may be made which is common to both the "brim
press" and the "blocking machine" previously described, which is, that it is better
to cover with felt most of the metallic parts of the said machines which work in
contact with the brim of the hat, the interposition of felt preventing any bad a
workmanship in the operations.
Having thus described the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner
the same is to be performed, I declare that I claim on behalf of my foreign
correspondent,—
The improvements in shaping, dressing, and finishing hats as hereinbefore
described and shown, the distinctive features of the said improvements being,-
First. With reference to the blocking machine.-The movability of the standard
which supports the press screw and its corresponding hand wheel; the arrangement
by which the rims which support the brim of the hat on the block may be turned
over either to the right or to the left, thus bringing the crown of the hat to view,
and which enables the oporation of the press screw on the said crown to be com-
pleted by the aid of other press screws suitably arranged on arms carried on each
side of the frame work; and finally, the interposition of a certain number of
perforated discs in the path of the current of steam for the purpose of drying the
said steam.
Secondly. With reference to the machine for ironing the crown.—The iron holder
or carrier in which the iron is carried on a roller carriage and submitted to the
action of spiral springs.
Thirdly. With reference to the brim press.-The movability of the upper brim
block with the parts connected with it above a table carrying two lower brim
blocks; and finally, the admission of a current of steam through flexible pipes to
the upper brim block, the whole as and for the purpose bereinbefore described.
Fourthly. I also claim the particular arrangements hereinbefore described by way
of example and shown in the annexed Drawings, the shapes, sizes, proportions,
materials employed, and accessory or detail parts of which may be varied or inodified
without departing from the distinctive features of the Invention.
In witness whereof, I, the said Edgar Edmonds, have hereunto set my hand
and seal, this Twenty second day of October, One thousand cight hundred
and eighty..
EDGAR EDMONDS. (LS.)