Improvements in Machinery or Apparatus for Dressing and Finishing Textile Fabrics.
Year: 1893

page_text: Date of Application, 10th Apr., 1893
Complete Specification Left, 10th Feb., 1894-Accepted, 17th Mar., 1894
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Machinery or Apparatus for Dressing and Finishing
Textile Fabrics.
I, ALBERT ETIENNE MATTER of 21 Boulevard Poissonniere Paris in the
Republic of France, Engineer do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be
as follows:
This invention relates to machinery or apparatus for dressing and finishing textile
fabrics and consists in improvements in the construction and arrangement of the
parts as hereinafter described whereby a superior finish or dress is imparted to the
goods and the nap raising operation is enabled to be conducted with rapidity and
economy without risk of damaging the goods by stretching straining puckering,
shrinking or otherwise. With this object the action of the cards or devices
employed to break the fibres and raise the broken ends which form the nap are so
constructed and arranged that their action is regulated strictly in accordance with
the nature of the goods or materials upon which they are required to operate and
the nature of the nap or surface to be produced on one or both sides of the fabric.
The fabric is rigidly supported when presented to the nap raising devices with
all its parts in the same plane without any folds or undulations in any direction in
order that the breaking and raising of the fibres may be rapidly effected.
The improved machinery is provided with one or many acting surfaces each of
such surfaces being constituted by a suitable number of card rollers or devices for
acting upon the fabric.
The said surfaces may be arranged all in the same plane or so as to form any
desired angle with one another or in parallel pairs arranged at opposite angles or
they may be combined together in any other convenient manner as found best
adapted to the circumstances under which they are required to work.
An apparatus constructed according to this invention comprises in addition to the
nap raising or acting surfaces a combination of feeding devices and finishing devices
and mechanism for actuating the card cleaning cylinders. The nap raising or
acting surfaces which act on one or on both sides of the fabric are constituted by
a series of rollers or cylinders provided with cards teazles or the like and having
imparted to them a combination of circular or rotary rectilinear and oscillating or
vibratory movements as hereinafter explained. These devices break the fibres and
raise the free ends which form the nap. The fabric is also acted on by mechanism
herein after described which stretches it in the direction of its width being arranged
opposite to the nap raising surfaces.
The fluff or waste adhering to the cards is cleaned off or removed by rotary
cleaning rollers or cylinders which travel with an intermittent motion along the
series of cards being caused to remain in one position for sufficient time for cleaning
cach card roller in succession. The machine is further provided with a combination
or combinations of cylinders forming a finishing apparatus and with a combination
or combinations of rollers for drawing the fabric through the apparatus. At the
delivery end of the apparatus the fabric is folded by a folding mechanism of
suitable construction.
Inert or stationary devices or guides of peculiar construction are also provided
in the apparatus which are essential to the proper performance of the work. These
devices consist of transverse bars plated or otherwise covered and presenting a
smooth or polished surface. These bars are arranged in the same plane and the
fabric is drawn over them and is thus presented with great precision to the action

page_text: of the reciprocating and rotating cards whose axes are displaced parallel to
themselves with an eccentric movement.
The nap raising or carding rollers may all rotate in the same direction or part of
the rollers may rotate in one direction and part in the other direction the rotary
movement being transmitted by an arrangement of toothed gearing worked by
worms and worm wheels or the like. The rollers are also caused to move bodily in
a direction perpendicular to the line passing through their centres or they may
describe a curve being the resultant of the combination of two different movements
in directions at right angles to one another. The supports of the bearings of the
rollers are suspended on links or levers oscillating on fixed pivots and the bearings
which slide in guides are provided with adjusting screws.
The reciprocating movement of the rollers in one direction may be produced by
means of rotating shafts arranged inside the supports and provided with cams acting
in combination with springs or by any other equivalent mechanical devices. In
order to produce the reciprocating movement of the rollers in another direction the
links on which the supports of the card roller bearings are suspended in place of
being arranged to vibrate upon fixed pivots are hung upon pins attached to a
support movable in a vertical direction upon guides under the action of a
combination of cams and springs or other equivalent mechanical arrangement.
The fabric on entering the apparatus is stretched laterally and accurately guided
and presented to the cards by means of a combination of rollers or cylinders having
rotating and longitudinal movements.
The widening device proper is constituted by a pair of cylinders covered with
bristles or other suitable flexible and elastic material preferably arranged in
bands or helical lines arranged in opposite directions the development of the said
cylinders being greater than that of the fabric. These cylinders slide freely in
opposite directions upon a shaft by which rotary motion is imparted to the cylinders.
The extremities of this shaft are supported by levers provided with rollers which
bear upon cam discs to which a continuous rotary motion is imparted so that the
cylinders are intermittently brought into contact with the fabric. Other cams act
upon a combination of levers connected with toothed sectors by which the cylinders
are intermittently displaced in the direction of their axis by means of forks engaging
with annular grooves in the cylinders the movements being so timed that the
cylinders move longitudinally away from each other when they are in contact with
the fabric in order to stretch it laterally and are moved back or towards one another
when out of contact with the fabric. Stationary or other guides may be provided
which act upon the fabric as it passes over the stretching cylinders.
Other stretching devices with similar cylinders clothed with helical lines of
bristles or other yielding material are arranged to act upon the fabric in a
continuous manner as it is drawn over or under the card rollers. These rollers are
carried by adjustable supports capable of being raised by means of levers when
required and the widening or laterally stretching cylinders are driven by chains and
chain wheels.
The supports of the card rollers may be combined with springs so as to render
them more yielding and elastic in their action on the fabric.
The cleaning rollers herein before referred to require to rotate in different.
directions according to the direction in which the card teeth are inclined and are
caused to move towards the card roller and retire therefrom and to move on to the
next roller where the same operations are repeated. After acting on all the rollers
of the surface or series to which they are attached the cleaning roller returns to
the other end of the series in order to recommence the cleaning operations.
The cleaning rollers are provided with brushes or cleaning surfaces preferably
arranged in helical lines running in opposite directions and are carried by supports
vibrating on movable centres in order to enable them to partake of the compound
movement hereinbefore described.
At each end of the roller there is a loose pulley capable of being connected
with the roller by a friction clutch controlled by a pin working in an inclined slot -

page_text: in sliding rings or sleeves on the shaft. By these means the pulleys are alternately
put in and out of gear and the cleaning rollers are enabled to be driven in opposite
directions as required by means of two belts arranged to travel in opposite
directions on opposite sides of the machine being acted on by suitable tension and
guide rollers carried by movable supports. Eccentric or cam shafts arranged at
the sides of the machine and having a continuous rotary motion act upon the
supports of the cleaning rollers and cause the belts to be pressed against the
pulleys when required and one or the other of the pulleys is automatically put in
gear with the roller according to the direction in which the latter is required to
rotate. In order to cause the motion of the rollers to stop without a jerk a
stationary belt or other yielding surface is caused to act as a brake being applied
to a disc on the roller or pulley or on both. Cloths or screens are arranged to
move with the cleaning rollers and the latter are caused to move parallel with
their axes by means of chains actuated by a drum and passing over pulleys and
by which chains the card cleaning devices are connected together and caused to
move in unison from one card roller to another.
Motion in opposite directions alternately is imparted to these chains by means
of toothed gearing worked by a crank and a pawl and ratchet motion the direction
of rotation being automatically reversed by a two armed rocking lever provided
with intermediate toothed wheels and actuated by a cam or eccentric driven by a
chain wheel in such a manner as to place the toothed wheels alternately in and out
of gear according to the direction in which they are required to move the chain
connected to the cleaning devices.
The rollers or devices for drawing the fabric through the apparatus are actuated
by endless chains and are covered with flexible or elastic materials arranged in
lines or bands arranged helically in opposite directions at each end of the roller.
Some of these rollers may have sides composed of cloth or gauze made of
galvanized wire or brass or copper wire which may be combined with the inverse
helices of flexible and elastic material. According to another arrangement these
rollers or cylinders may be formed by round wires or rods or bars of flat T or
other section of an inoxidisable or protected metal which may be roughened on the
outer surface. These cylinders may be combined with a central stationary or
rotating steam pipe with or without perforations.
The finishing devices consist of two or more rollers rotating in opposite
directions or otherwise at the delivery end of the machine and provided with
suitable clothing (with bent or hooked wires or teeth) for treating or reviving the
nap or surface in order to remove the effects of the pressure of the propelling
or feed rollers. These finishing rollers may also partake of an oscillating motion
which may be combined with a circular movement.
The stationary guide bars or supports placed between the card rollers plated
or otherwise provided with smooth inoxidisable surfaces guide and support
the fabric and prevent it from being dragged by the action of the card rollers
which work in the openings or spaces between the said guide bars. These
openings or spaces may be bridged over at the ends by thin plates when it is
desired to protect the selvedges from the action of the cards.
By suitably combining or arranging the rollers the fabric can be treated on both
sides in once passing through the apparatus and in place of the rollers hereinbefore
described as being employed for stretching the fabric laterally I prefer especially
when the fabric is of a delicate texture to employ endless bands or devices
made of a supple flexible and elastic material capable of producing the required
effect.
The fabric is steamed and damped by means of improved arrangements of open
work or perforated cylinders combined with steam pipes and tubes with a sucking
or exhausting action obtained by means of a fan for example are provided for the
purpose of drawing off the dust and short fibres.
I also provide shearing mechanism at the delivery end of nap raising or cloth
dressing machines.

page_text: The division of the apparatus into a number of combinations of rollers forming
separate acting surfaces presents the important advantage of enabling the nature
of the cards or teazles and their rates of speed to be regulated or graduated
according to the stage of the operation in which they are required to act, the
cards at the first stage being required to break the fibres which are subsequently
opened and raised or otherwise arranged upon the surface of the fabric.
In order to impart to the fabric a rectilinear or vibrating or oscillating motion
at the points where it is acted on by the teazles or card rollers the transverse bars
or guides herein before referred to in place of being stationary partake of a
vibrating or reciprocating motion in combination with the stretching devices and
their supports with which the said bars are connected thus performing the double
function of drawing forward the material and imparting to it a reciprocating
motion. In this case the card rollers partake of a rotary motion only. These
different methods of acting on the fabric and actuating the parts may be combined
in one machine so as to regulate the action in accordance with the effect to be
produced on the material under treatment. For example some of the rollers may
have a rotary motion combined with a rectilinear motion whilst others have a
rotary motion combined with an oscillating or vibrating motion whilst others again
simply partake of a rotary motion.
The dressing or finishing action is obtained by the mechanical driving of all the
devices employed for drawing forward the fabric a portion of the said devices
being covered with bands or strips of flexible and elastic material such as brushes
and the like their development or perimiter being greater than that of the fabric
and their coils forming helices inversely arranged at opposite ends. In place of
bands or strips the said flexible and elastic materials may be directly attached to
the feeding or propelling devices being arranged in inverse helices or otherwise.
The fabric is guided from one series of cards or dressing rollers to another by
suitable combinations of guide and tension rollers which may be combined with
troughs or chambers for moistening or otherwise treating the fabric as required.
Dated this 10th day of April 1893
J. H. JOHNSON & Co.,
47, Lincoln's Inn Fields, London, W.C., Agents.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Machinery or Apparatus for Dressing and Finishing
Textile Fabrics.
I, ALBERT ETIENNE MATTER of 21 Boulevard Poissonniere Paris in the
Republic of France, Engineer do hereby declare the nature of this invention and
in what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This invention relates to machinery or apparatus for dressing and finishing
textile fabrics and consists in improvements in the construction and arrangement of
the parts as hereinafter described whereby a superior finish or dress is imparted to
the goods and the nap raising operation is enabled to be conducted with rapidity
and economy without risk of damaging the goods by stretching, straining, puckering,
shrinking or otherwise. With this object the cards or devices employed to break
the fibres and raise the broken ends which form the nap are so constructed and
arranged that their action is regulated strictly in accordance with the nature of the
goods or materials upon which they are required to operate and the nature of the nap
or surface to be produced on one or both sides of the fabric.
Textile fabrics which have a nap produced on one or both sides by mechanical
operations called nap-raising or teasling present this change of surface with different
textures according to the uses for which they are intended. On some the nap is
formed by raising portions of the fibres of the material constituting the fabric, on

page_text: others these portions of fibres are beaten down, forming a soft layer on the surface
of the material.
The constituent elements of all textile fabrics are warp threads, either single or
double, and united by weaving operations. These elements are themselves first
formed of indivisible fibres of textile matter united together in masses of varying
sizes by the operation of twisting the thread, by means of which they are combined
and consequently produce endless threads of sizes and strengths necessary for the
manufacture of the fabrics.
The mechanical operations of nap raising or teasling after the manufacture
of the fabric consist in breaking the primitive fibres of the threads which enter
into its composition, in disengaging the broken ends from the mass of fibres
to which they still adhere by the folds formed by the twisting, whilst the
opposite ends are held in the fabric by the effect of the twisting, tightening, and
interlacing of the threads according to the process forming the basis of manufacture
of the fabric.
These portions of fibres which are rendered free at one end on the surface of the
fabric are simultaneously raised or beaten down by the acting devices of the nap
raising machine in order to form different kinds of material. The operation of
perfect nap raising is a very troublesome one and renders necessary the most precise
arrangement of the fabric passing through the machine when in contact with the
active portions of the nap-raising devices.
The fabric is rigidly supported when presented to the nap raising devices,
with all its parts in the same plane, without any folds or undulations of any
sort, in order that the breaking and raising of the fibres may be expeditiously
effected.
The improved machinery or apparatus constructed according to this invention may
be provided with one or several acting surfaces each of which is furnished with a
number of card rollers or devices for acting upon the fabric, the number of acting
surfaces varying according to the kinds of nap required to be produced on the fabric
by its passage once through the machine.
The said surfaces may be arranged all in the same plane, or so as to form any
desired angle with one another, or in parallel pairs arranged at opposite angles, or
they may be combined together in any other convenient manner, best adapted
to the circumstances under which the machine is required to work.
And in order that the said invention may be fully understood I shall now proceed
more particularly to describe the same and for that purpose shall refer to the several
figures on the annexed sheets of drawings.
Figures 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 of the drawings represent diagrammatic elevations of
various arrangements of machines constructed acccording to this invention showing
the general arrangement of the nap raising, cleaning, drawing or feeding and
finishing devices, the acting surfaces being shewn differently arranged in each figure.
Figure 6 represents the external circumferences, drawn upon a larger scale, of
the reciprocating and rotating card or nap raising rollers in their extreme oscillatory
positions together with the curves which their centres describe.
Figures 7, 8 and 9 show the first stretching roller or cylinder, and its support,
Figure 7 being an end elevation, Figure 8 a detail in plan and Figure 9 a general
plan of the device.
Figures 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 20, 21, 22 illustrate the cleaning devices or rollers
which are
applied to the card rollers, and the mechanism for operating the same,
Figure 10 being a plan of the operating mechanism for one end of the cleaning
cylinder or roller, Figure 11 a front elevation of the said cylinder with its operating
mechanism, and Figures 12, 13, 14 and 15 show diagrammatically various positions
of a card roller with relation to the cleaning cylinder. Figure 20 represents in
elevation the combination of the cleaning devices with the driving mechanism for
imparting an intermittent movement thereto. Figure 21 is a detail section showing
a frictional device for operating the cleaning cylinder, and Figure 22 represents in
plan mechanism for giving an intermittent movement to the same.

page_text: Figure 16 is a longitudinal section of oue form of drawing or feeding roller
constructed according to this invention and having a heating pipe arranged in the
interior, and Figure 18 is a plan of a similar roller without the heating pipe.
Figure 17 is a transverse section of a feeding roller the perimeter of which is
composed of a number of round rods, and Figure 19 is a similar roller the
perimeter of which is composed of rectangular rods.
Figures 23, 24 and 25 represent oscillating suspended supports for the card
rollers together with the mechanism which imparts movement to them, Figure 23
being a front elevation of a machine having its acting surfaces arranged in tiers one
above another, Figure 24 is an elevation of the gearing for rotating the card rollers,
and Figure 25 a plan of the same. Figures 26, 27, 28 and 29 show the application
of the combined stretching and drawing devices placed in proximity to the card
rollers as shown in Figures 1 to 5, Figure 26 being a front elevation (with part
broken away) of these devices, Figure 27 showing them with their supports in side
elevation. The lower half of Figure 27 also shows a modification of the stretching
devices suitable for fabrics requiring delicate treatment, and Figure 28 is a side
elevation of the same. Figure 29 represents in plau one of the supports for the
stretching rollers.
Figures 30 and 31 are diagrammatic elevations of modified forms of machines
constructed in accordance with this invention and in which the additional devices
employed in the treatment of certain kinds of fabrics are shown, such as the
steaming and damping apparatus and the shearing and folding devices.
Figures 32, 33 and 34 are respectively a horizontal section, a vertical section and
an end view (drawn to an enlarged scale) of the supports for the card rollers shown
in Figures 23, 24 and 25: and Figures 35, 36 and 37 represent transverse sections
also drawn to an enlarged scale of stationary devices or guides placed between the
card rollers for supporting the fabric.
Referring to Figures 1 to 5, A', A³, A³ to A² represent the nap raising rollers or
cylinders provided with cards, teazles or the like and having imparted to them a
combination of circular or rotary, rectilinear and oscillatory or vibratory movements
as will be hereinafter explained. These devices serve to break the fibres and
raise the free ends which form the nap either on one or both sides of the fabric.
The direction in which the fabric passes through the machine is indicated by
arrows.
At the entrance end of the machine is situated a stretching roller or cylinder D,
the special function of which is described hereinafter. In front of the card rollers
or devices A-A² are placed other stretching rollers D' D2 D³ which also serve
to draw the fabric through the machine and B are cleaning rollers or cylinders for
removing the fluff or waste from the card rollers A'-A. These cleaning rollers
or cylinders B receive an intermittent motion along the series of card rollers A¹-A',
and are caused to remain for a sufficiently long period in each position for cleaning
the said card rollers; B. B' show the extreme positions taken up by these cleaning
rollers.
The finishing devices are represented at E. E¹ E³, and the means for drawing
or feeding the fabric through the machine are shewn at F. At the delivery
end H of the machine a folding apparatus may be provided of any suitable
construction. Inert or stationary guides or supporting devices M. M' M'-M'
(which are of great importance for the proper treatment of the fabrics) are placed
between and near to the card rollers A' to A'. These supporting devices or guides
may consist of transverse bars of T or other suitable section plated or otherwise
coated so as to present a smooth surface to the fabric under treatment. These
bars are all arranged in the same plane, the fabric being drawn over them and
being thus presented with great precision to the action of the card rollers.
Any desired number of card rollers may be provided in each surface over which
the fabric travels.
These card rollers A¹ to A7, whose circumferences N N' are represented in
Figure 6 turn about their axes either all in the same direction, or some in one

page_text: direction, and the others in the opposite direction according to necessity. At the
same time there may be given to these axes, either a simple rectilinear movement
from N' to N° (Figure 6) for example, normal to the line which passes through the
centres of the rollers, or two rectilinear movements simultaneously, the one in the
direction N' N and the other perpendicular to the last named; the resultant of
the combination of these two simultaneous movements, (the extent of which can be
varied as required) will be an endless curve similar to N2 N3 or N (Figure 6).
I will describe the action of the card rollers or devices with reference to
Figures 23 and 24, which show a machine with acting surfaces arranged in pairs
inclined to one another, but the description applies also to machines with single
acting surfaces or with a number of acting surfaces arranged in succession as in
Figures 1 to 4.
T (Figure 23) represents an acting surface with seven card rollers A' to A
which derive motion from worm wheels a fixed on perpendicular shafts or by any
other suitable driving mechanism. Supports, shewn in Figures 32, 33, and 34
extend from a' to a² (Figures 23 and 24) on the left and right hand sides of the
machine, are suspended by levers a³, the said levers being free to oscillate at a*
around fixed pivots.
In the interior of the supports a¹ a² on each side of the machine (Figures 24, 25,
and 32) a shaft as is provided parallel to the inclination of the supports, each shaft
being provided with two eccentrics a to each acting surface, held in intimate
connection with the supports by means of springs a³. The forms of the said
eccentrics may be varied according to requirements and any other equivalent
mechanical device to produce similar effects may be employed.
In revolving the shafts a, together with the eccentrics aº, give an oscillatory
motion to the supports at a², which is communicated to the card rollers A' to A',
which turn in their bearings a movably mounted in a¹ a³ and capable of adjustment
by screws (Figures 23, 24, 32, 33 and 34). In this manner the rectilinear
movement N' to N° (Figure 6) of the card rollers hereinbefore referred to is
produced. The supports a' a³, are in constant contact with the springs a³ which
maintain an intimate contact of the said supports with their eccentrics aⓇ as
hereinbefore described.
The shafts a carrying the driving wheels for operating the card rollers, are in
turn driven by the shafts as by means of toothed gearing a (Figure 24).
The two simultaneous movements given to the card rollers A' to A' are produced
in the case of the acting surface T¹ (Figure 23) for example, in the following
manner: The supports 6' 62 of this surface, as in the acting surface T, herein before
described are carried, so as to be free to turn by the levers 63 which oscillate on
pivots 6, but the said pivots instead of being fixed, are attached to sliding
guides, directed in their movements by hollow arms 66 which they embrace.
These guides receive a vertical movement by the action of cams or eccentrics b
(Figure 23) fixed on each side of the machine, and the shafts carrying which are
operated by bevel gearing by the shafts a' (Figures 23, 24, and 25). The
movements of the guides thus produced are communicated to the levers 66 and
hence to the card rollers A' to A' of the acting surface T' which receive
simultaneously a to and fro movement, derived as herein before explained with
reference to the surface T. The guides are in communication with helical
springs 68 placed inside the hollow arms 6 by which the said springs are kept in
compression and maintain an intimate contact with the cams or eccentrics 67
(Figure 23) or with any other equivalent devices which may be employed. By
these means the card rollers A' to A' obtain the three movements, which constitute
their method of working.
The stretching devices for straightening the fabric, to be submitted to the
carding or teazling action, and producing a uniform but not excessive tension
thereof play a prominent part in the operation of nap-raising, as by submitting the
fabric flat and free from folds and creases to the card rollers A'-A' the process is
effected much more rapidly and regularly.

page_text: The construction of the first stretching device marked D (Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5)
is made clear by Figures 7, 8, 9. The said device comprises a pair of cylinders c.
provided with brushes or other flexible or elastic material e c³, arranged in belical
lines in opposite directions, the development of the said cylinders being greater than
that of the portion of fabric which passes over the roller at each revolution thereof.
These cylinders can slide freely in opposite directions upon a shaft c* with which
they have a rotary movement.
The shaft is supported and revolves in two levers placed one on either side
of the machine (Figure 7). These levers are capable of oscillating at c and are
each provided with a roller c', which rests at either side of the machine, on the
periphery of a cam plate e (Figures 7 and 9) the said cam plates having a
continuous rotary movement imparted to them. This arrangement causes the
cylinders and c¹ to rise and fall, that is to say, puts them in contact with and
intermittently removes them from the fabric passing through the machine, the
pressure of the contact being adjustable. Near the two plates c are two other cam
plates (Figures 7 and 9) against the peripheries of which rollers c¹0 (Figures 7
and 9) fixed on the ends of two oscillating levers c¹¹, are caused to bear by the
action of springs.
At the outer extremities of the rollers or cylinders c. c¹ grooves are formed to
receive forks c¹ movable in internally toothed sectors ¹³ (Figure 8). With the
said sectors two other externally toothed sectors e engage, the spindles or shafts of
which each carry an arm of a lever c¹5 (Figures 7 and 8) the latter levers are
connected by links to levers c" so that the oscillatory movements of the said
levers are communicated to the sectors c, c¹³, which are thereby moved in
opposite directions. 20 is a guide made fixed or movable according to requirements
by which the fabric is brought into contact with the rollers or cylinders c. c. The
forks (Figure 8) being caused to follow the reciprocatory movement of the
sectors give a longitudinal movement in opposite directions to the rollers or
cylinders c. c (Figure 9).
The effect of this combination of devices is the following movement. There is
simultaneously produced the rising of the stretching cylinders or rollers c c² against
the fabric and the lateral movement of the said rollers or cylinders in the direction
of the arrows c¹ c19 (Figure 9) which causes the straightening of the fabrics in a
transverse direction by means of the helical brushes c² c³. During the period of
falling of the said rollers, in which period the brushes are out of contact with the
fabric, the reverse movement of the forks restores the cylinders c. ¹ to the initial
position shown on the drawing (Figure 9).
The other devices for widening or stretching the fabric are marked D' D² D³
(Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5) but are more clearly depicted in Figures 26, 27 and 29, which
are applicable to the machine with acting surfaces arranged in pairs or tiers shown
in Figure 5. The application of groups of stretching devices to machines having
the acting surfaces arranged in succession is however practically the same as in the
machines hereinbefore mentioned, and the said rollers may be of any suitable
number.
Figures 26 and 27 show a group of stretching rollers D' D² D³ applied to the
acting surface T' above the card rollers A' to A:
In Figures 30 and 31 at P and Q the stretching devices are shown below the
card cylinders.
The rollers are made of metal of suitable diameter and covered by cylinders d³, d
(Figure 26) which are clothed with helical lines of bristles or any suitable flexible
or elastic material.
The said rollers are mounted in adjustable supports or bearings d' (Figures 26, 27
and 29) provided in a framework d³ hinged upon a pivot d. This framework can
be raised according to the work being done by the machine by levers do d
(Figure 27) and can be held in any desired position. The stretching rollers D' D'D³
(Figures 26 and 27) are provided at their ends with chain wheels " by which they
receive motion as shown at d¹³ d" (Figures 26 and 27). The bearings d' of these

page_text: rollers or cylinders may be placed under the action of springs to give an elastic
contact with the fabric. The results of this arrangement are the drawing, dressing
and stretching of the fabric, the prevention of shrinking and removal of creases,
while the moderate and uniform tension put upon the material is sufficient to prevent
any detrimental effects likely to be produced by the card rollers and the feeding of
the fabric is effected with perfect regularity.
These conditions are of the greatest importance at the point where the action
of the card rollers takes place and ensure perfection in the operation of nap raising.
When the fabrics require only a delicate treatment I substitute for the combined
stretching and drawing rollers D1 D2 D3 endless bands of supple, flexible and
elastic material shown clearly in front and side elevation in Figures 26 and 28.
The cleaning devices are shown in position at B B' (Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5) and
more fully in Figures 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 20, 21, 22. Although Figure 20,
represents an elevation of the cleaning devices applicable to the machine with
acting surfaces arranged in pairs or tiers and serving to clean the carding rollers of
four acting surfaces, the same general arrangement for each of the individual
surfaces serves without modification for single surface machines or machines having
several surfaces arranged in succession.
The card teeth of the card rollers A' A' are inclined in the direction of rotation
(Figures 12 and 13) the result of which is the movement of the cleaning rollers in
the opposite direction but there may be cases where the cleaning and carding
cylinders or rollers revolve in the same direction.
The cleaning roller B of any one surface as herein before stated has to change its
position intermittently it has, for example, to come into contact with and then
retire from the roller A' (Figures 12 and 13 and Figures 14 and 15) and then move
on to the next roller A2 where the same movements are repeated, and so on until
the roller A has been reached. It will have then passed from the position B
to B¹ and afterwards returns to position B in order to recommence cleaning
operations. This intermittent movement of the roller B may be effected by any
suitable means.
The cleaning rollers or cylinders B are provided with bands or strips carrying
metal wires or bristles forming brushes preferably arranged in helical lines e¹
(Figure 11) or they may be entirely covered with wires or bristles. The shaft on
which each roller is mounted is carried by two supports e et, provided at each side
of the machine, the said supports oscillating about pins e e fixed in guides e' es
moveable in the framework of the machine. The roller B follows in consequence
the movements of the guides ee and has a constant tendency owing to gravity to
cause the oscillating supports to take up a vertical position. At each end of the
roller shaft is placed a loose pulley (Figures 11 and 21) capable of being
connected with the said shaft by means of a friction clutch or device comprising a
conical disc eo which is moveable along the shaft but forced to turn therewith and
being capable of driving the pulley by frictional contact. Pins (Figures 11
and 21) fixed in the moveable sleeves e of the shaft pass through-the supports e*
and e and engage in the-inclined grooves of two rings or straps e¹s which may move
round collars on the supports ee (Figures 21 and 11). When these rings or
straps are turned forward or backward, the angle of their grooves effects by the
movement of the sliding sleeves e, the engagement or disengagement of the friction
discs el with the pulley e°.
In front of the supports ee of the roller shaft is fixed on either side of the
machine an inclined shaft e" (Figures 10 and 20) of eccentric section placed
parallel with the line of movement of the supports ee and opposite to the roller e".
These eccentric shafts receive a continuous rotary movement.
Two belts f, one on each side of the machine travelling in opposite directions are
driven by means of pulleys f' f which in turn derive motion from the shaft f³.
These belts pass over guide pulleys (Figures 11 and 20) and between the
pulleys and rollers and over the tension pulleys f7 (Figure 20) the rollers f*
being carried by the guides ees when the eccentric shafts e which are always in
B

page_text: contact with the rollers es (Figures 10 and 20) have displaced the latter and con-
sequently the pulleys e carried by the supports e³ e, the pulleys e which are loose
on the shaft of the drum B force the belts f between the rollers f (Figure 20).
The friction on the belts causes the driving of the pulleys e which are caused to
turn quickly and immediately one of the two friction discs elo (Figure 21) is
engaged by the movement of one of the slot rings e produced by a suitable
arrangement of parts along the line of displacement of the drum B.
According to requirement the friction clutch on either side of the machine is
brought into action and the respective pulley e and with it the roller B itself are
driven in the direction of the movement of the belt which is in contact with the
engaged clutch. As the two belts move in reverse directions it will be easily
perceived that the roller B may be caused to turn at will in either direction. In
order to cause the motion of the roller B to be arrested without a jerk a stationary
belt for other yielding surface is caused to act as a brake, being applied to a
disc on the roller or to the loose pulleys e as shown at f' or to both. Cloths or
screens are caused to move with the cleaning rollers B, and the latter are caused
to move parallel with their axes by means of chains 9 (Figure 20) actuated by a
driving wheel g² and passing over guide pulleys g₁ and by which chains the card
cleaning devices are connected together and caused to move in unison from one card
roller to the other.
18
On the shaft of the wheel (Figures 20 and 22) is provided a simple lever 9*
which is rocked by means of a connecting rod g* driven from a revolving disc³,
and by means of a pawl 96 gives motion to a ratchet wheel g' fixed on the said shaft.
There is moreover fixed on the latter a double lever 98 carrying intermediate gear
wheels, these wheels being operated on each side by another wheel 90 fixed on the
shaft of the wheel in such a manuer that the intermittent movements of the
ratchet wheel 97 may be communicated to the wheel g10 and hence to the intermediate
wheels of the double lever g8 (Figures 20 and 22). Made in one with the disc g³ is a
chain wheel g which by means of a chain communicates the movement to another
wheel g, having a pinion 9 engaging with a wheel g". To the latter is fixed a
cam disc g on the rim of which rests the roller g₁ on the left arm of the double
lever g. When the roller g¹ bears upon the portion of the disc gl with the larger
radius the right arm of the double lever 98 is lowered and the intermediate wheel
which it carries is engaged with a wheel g" fixed to the wheel carrying the
endless chain g (Figures 20 and 22). When the roller g¹ bears upon the portion
of the disc 95 with the smaller radius the left arm of the double lever 98 falls and
the second intermediate wheel which it carries engages with the wheel g", whilst
that on the right becomes disengaged. In this manner the intermittent movements
of the ratchet 97 are transmitted to the wheel ", sometimes in one direction and
sometimes in the other, and the wheel 9 carrying the endless chain turns
periodically to the right or left, causing the cleaning roller B to travel up and
down in front of the nap raising rollers A¹ to A².
By the arrangements, hereinbefore described, all the changes of direction of
motion and the several intermittent movements of the roller B are obtained with
great precision in certain periods of time.
The rollers or devices marked F in Figures 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 for drawing the
fabric through the apparatus may be actuated by toothed or chain gearing. Some
of these rollers may be covered with flexible or elastic materials in lines or bands
arranged helically in opposite directions at each end of the roller as shown in the
cleaning roller B (Figure 11), while others may have an openwork cage or
casing (Figure 18) composed of gauze made of galvanised wire of brass or
copper. This cage may also be constructed of round metal rods (Figure 17) or of
bars of rectangular or other suitable section (Figure 19) of unoxidisable metal,
which may be roughened or not on the outer surface. Or the drawing roller may
consist of a cylindrical metallic cage or casing h¹ (Figure 16) enveloping a central
steam pipe either stationary or revolving with the roller or cylinder and being
provided with perforations or not.

page_text: The finishing devices which are shown in position in Figures 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5
consist of two or more rollers E E¹ rotating in either direction placed at the
delivery end of the machine and provided with suitable clothing for treating or
reviving the nap or surface in order to remove the effects of the pressure of the
drawing or feed rollers. These finishing rollers E E¹ can also partake of an
oscillating motion which may be combined with a circular movement, the finishing
roller E being arranged to operate in this manner.
The stationary bars or devices M to M' (Figures 1, 5, 27, 35, 36 and 37) are
placed between the card rollers A¹ to A', their upper surfaces being perfectly
smooth and in the same plane as the said rollers. They may be made of angle iron
of T section, galvanised, plated or covered with sheet brass or other suitable non-
oxidisable metal R (Figure 36) or they may be made of glass or porcelain R¹
(Figure 37). These devices act as guides and supports for the fabric to prevent it
from being dragged by the action of the card rollers which revolve in the spaces
between the said guide bars. To protect the selvedges of the fabric from the
action of the cards the card rollers are bridged over by thin brass plates S
(Figure 33) the positions of which along the stationary bars M to M' may be
varied.
When it is desired to produce a nap on both sides of a fabric in one passage
thereof through the machine one of the acting surfaces of the machine may be
arranged as shown for instance at P P P and Q Q'Q' in Figures 30 and 31, the
fabric passing at the back of the card rollers A' to A' and the cleaning roller B
being situated on the outside of the said card rollers at P P (Figure 30) and Q Q'
(Figure 31). Any number of acting surfaces may be employed for treating the
reverse side of the fabric.
The accessory appliances which may be employed on machinery for dressing and
finishing fabrics include devices for steaming and damping the fabric shown at I.
J. J (Figure 30) and at IJ (Figure 31): drawing cylinders K (Figures 30, 31)
perforated or otherwise made of open work with fixed or revolving steam pipes
arranged inside the said cylinders; pipes shown at M8 (Figures 1, 5, 30 and 31)
with an aspirating or exhausting action produced by means of a fan for example for
the purpose of drawing off the dust and short fibres and shearing mechanism L
arranged at the delivery end of the machine.
:
The division of the apparatus into a number of combinations or groups of rollers
forining separate acting surfaces presents the important advantage of enabling the
nature of the cards or teazles and their speeds to be regulated according to the
stages of the operation, the cards at the first stage being required to break the fibres
which go to form the nap and which are subsequently opened and raised or otherwise
arranged on the surface of the fabric.
In order to impart to the fabric a rectilinear or vibrating or oscillating motion
at the points where it is acted upon by the card rollers, the transverse bars or
quides M M M2 to M', instead of being stationary as hereinbefore described, may
partake of a vibrating or reciprocating motion in combination with the stretching
rollers D' D D or with the endless bands j and their supports-d' (Figures 26
and-27) with which the said bars may be connected, thus performing the double
function of drawing the fabric and simultaneously imparting to it, as herein before
stated, an oscillating or reciprocating motion. In this case the card rollers A'
to A partake of a rotary movement only. These different methods of acting on
the fabric and actuating the parts may be combined in one machine so as to
regulate the action in accordance with the effect to be produced upon the material
under treatment. For example some of the rollers may have a rotary motion
combined with a rectilinear motion whilst others may have a rotary motion
combined with an oscillating or vibrating motion, whilst others simply receive a
rotary motion.
The dressing or finishing action is obtained by the mechanical driving of all the
devices for drawing forward the fabric, a portion of the said devices being covered
with bands or strips of flexible or elastic material such as brushes and the like,

page_text: the development of each roller being greater than that portion of the fabric which
passes over it at each revolution thereof and their coils forming helices inversely
arranged as at c¹² (Figure 11). In place of bands or strips the said flexible or
elastic material may be attached directly to the feeding or drawing devices being
arranged in inverse helical lines or otherwise.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed 1 declare that what I
claim is :-
1. In machinery or apparatus for dressing and finishing textile fabrics one or
more acting surfaces arranged all in the same plane, or so as to form any desired
angle with one another, or in parallel pairs arranged at opposite angles, or in any
other convenient manner substantially as herein before described with reference to
the accompanying drawings.
2. In machinery or apparatus for dressing and finishing textile fabrics the
combination in one machine of several card rollers against which the fabric is caused
to travel, the said card rollers being caused to rotate either all in the same direction
or some in one direction and others in the opposite direction and also capable of
receiving a reciprocating reetilinear or vibrating movement substantially as
herein before described.
3. In machinery or apparatus for dressing and finishing textile fabrics card or
nap raising rollers having imparted to them simultaneously a rotary motion, a
rectilinear motion and an oscillating or vibrating motion substantially as
herein before described more particularly with reference to Figure 6 of the
accompanying drawings.
4. In machinery or apparatus for dressing and finishing textile fabrics a device
for stretching and straightening the fabric situated at the front or feed end of the
machine consisting of two revolving cylinders or rollers moveable intermittently in
the direction of their length in opposite directions and alternately approaching
towards and receding from the fabric, the said rollers or cylinders being clothed
with bands or strips of flexible or elastic material or bristles arranged in inverse
helical lines and having a circumference the development of which is greater than
the length of that portion of the fabric passing over it at each revolution
substantially as herein before described with reference to Figures 1, 5, 7, 8, and 9
of the accompanying drawings.
5. In machines or apparatus for dressing and finishing textile fabrics the
combination with each acting surface of the machine of a group of any desired
number of mechanically driven rollers or devices for stretching and drawing the
fabric over the acting surfaces and arranged face to face with the card or nap
raising rollers or devices substantially as hereinbefore described with reference to
Figures 1, 5, 26, 27, and 29 of the accompanying drawings.
6. In machinery or apparatus for dressing and finishing textile fabrics the
combination with the acting surfaces, of mechanically driven endless bands or
devices of flexible or elastic material substantially as hereinbefore described
with reference to the accompanying drawings.
7. In machinery or apparatus for dressing and finishing textile fabrics the
combination with each acting surface of a roller or device capable of travelling in
either direction up or down, for cleaning the card or nap raising rollers the said
cleaning roller being clothed with card teeth or the like arranged in inverse helical
lines and moving intermittently to act in succession upon each card roller of the
series and caused to remain in any one position for a suitable period of time, and
a cloth or screen capable of moving with the cleaning roller and separating it from
the card rollers substantially as hereinbefore described.
8. In machinery or apparatus for dressing and finishing textile fabrics the
combination with the card rollers of stationary bars or devices situated between
the said rollers and serving to support the fabric while being acted upon and
regulating the contact between the rollers and fabric, the said bars being provided

page_text: or not with plates for protecting the selvedges of the fabric, substantially as
herein before described with reference more particularly to Figures 35, 36, and 37
of the accompanying drawings.
9. In machinery or apparatus for dressing and finishing textile fabrics drawing
rollers or devices having unoxidizable open-work cages consisting of woven wire or
the like or formed of round or rectangular rods substantially as described with
reference more particularly to Figures 16, 17, 18, and 19 of the accompanying
drawings.
10. In machinery or apparatus for dressing and finishing textile fabrics the
combination with the subject matter of the last preceding claim of plain or
perforated steam pipes either fixed or revolving inside the said rollers or cylinders
substantially as hereinbefore described with reference to Figure 16 of the
accompanying drawings.
11. In machinery or apparatus for dressing and finishing textile fabrics drawing
rollers or devices carrying bands or strips of flexible or elastic material arranged
in inverse helical lines having a surface greater than that of the portion of the
fabric passing in contact therewith at each revolution of the roller substantially
as described.
12. In machinery or apparatus for dressing and finishing textile fabrics
constructed substantially as hereinbefore described devices for steaming and
damping the fabric under treatment substantially as described with reference to
Figures 30 and 31 of the accompanying drawings.
13. In machinery or apparatus for dressing and finishing textile fabrics sub-
stantially as herein before described means for removing the fluff, waste and the
like by suction or aspiration substantially as hereinbefore described and shewn
in Figures 1 and 5 of the accompanying drawings.
14. In machinery or apparatus for dressing and finishing textile fabrics the
arrangement of the card or nap raising rollers and cleaning rollers for treating and
dressing fabrics on both sides during a single passage thereof through the machine
substantially as hereinbefore described with reference to Figures 30 and 31 of the
accompanying drawings.
15. In machinery or apparatus for dressing and finishing textile fabrics sub-
stantially as herein before described providing at the delivery end of the machine
rollers or devices having card clothing for treating or reviving the nap of the
fabric and operated substantially in the manner hereinbefore described with
reference to Figures 1 and 5 of the accompanying drawings.
16. In machinery or apparatus for dressing and finishing textile fabrics sub-
stantially as herein before described nap raising or card rollers or devices having
imparted to them a revolving movement and the fabric on which they operate
having a rectilinear or oscillating movement given to it substantially as herein-
before described.
Dated this 10th day of February 1894.
JOHNSONS & WILLCOX,
Agents.