Improvements in the Manufacture of Felt Hats.
Year: 1899

page_text: Date of Application, 7th Apr., 1899
Complete Specification Left, 8th Jan., 1900-Accepted, 24th Feb., 1900
"
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Felt Hats.
We, JoHN HENRY NEAVE, of Rainow, Macclesfield, in the County of Chester,
Hat Manufacturer, and FELIX DEILAN, of Louviers, in the Department of Eure,
France, Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as
follows:-
This invention has reference to the manufacture of felt hats or hats of analogous
materials and relates more particularly to the stiffening " of the hat.
16
a
It has been the custom in the manufacture of hats as far as we are aware in
stiffening" the same to apply to the hat a solution containing a resinous or
analagous material and then to immediately subject it to the action of heat at a
degree sufficient to melt the resinous material which on cooling assumes
crystalline condition and renders the hat stiff. The surface was then cleared by
the action of steam, by rubbing it with an abrasive substance, or by subjecting
it to an alkaline bath. The result of these operations is that the stiffening
material being near the surface of the hat is able to be brought to the surface
and the surface thereby marred by the subsequent manipulation of the hat to
finish it.
It is the aim of our invention primarily to avoid the liability of the stiffening
material being brought to the surface after the latter is cleaned and to this end
our invention consists broadly in applying the stiffening material in an amorphous
condition, then subjecting the surface of the hat to a clearing process to remove
the surplus material and finally subjecting the hat to the action of a sufficient
degree of heat to melt the stiffening material and cause it to assume a crystalline
condition and thereby stiffen the hat.
The invention also consists in an improved apparatus for use in our improved
process.
In proceeding to carry our invention into effect we first prepare a bath of
the stiffening material which may consist of a solution of some resinous gum
such as resin or shellac preferably the latter, with the proper proportion of
alkali. This bath is prepared in the usual and well known manner, the shellac
being in an, amorphous or non-crystalline condition. The hat to be stiffened
is treated in this bath in the usual manner by immersion or otherwise. It is
now instead of being subjected to the influence of a sufficient degree of heat to
melt the shellac and cause it to assume a crystalline form as under the previous
methods subjected to a washing or cleaning operation to clear the surplus solution
from the surface it being possible while the shellac is in this condition to more
thoroughly free it from the hat than if it were in a crystalline and stiff condition.
The result of the clearing of the surface of the hat at this stage is that the shellac
is freed from the hat to a considerable extent into its interior and remaining
only in the interior of the hat, thereby avoiding any liability of its being brought
to the surface by any finishing process or treatment to which it might thereafter
be subjected.
We prefer to effect the clearing of the surface by apparatus comprising a
rotary block over which the hat is stretched and on which water is allowed to
flow from a pipe, the cleansing being effected by rubbing a brush in contact with

page_text: the rapidly moving surface. The block is fixed to the upper end of a vertical
shaft mounted in a bearing in a frame, the lower end of the shaft having
fixed to it a bevelled gear driven by a bevelled gear on a horizontal drive shaft
mounted in the frame and having fixed to its end a drive pulley. The block is
surrounded by a trough to receive the water thrown from the surface of the
revolving hat and from this trough the water flows into a reservoir through a
pipe. From the reservoir the water is elevated to a cistern by a pump and Hows
from the cistern through the pipe and onto the hat thereunder the flow of water
being controlled by a cock.
The block should be driven at from 200 to 300 revolutions per minute and
while the water trickles over the surface of the hat it is brushed by the attendant
the result being that the surface is thoroughly cleansed of the shellac and the
material of the hat freed of the shellac to a considerable depth. After the
surface is sufficiently cleansed the water remaining may be removed by placing
the hat on a block similar to that first described and rotating the same at from
1200 to 1500 revolutions per minute. The hat is then thoroughly dried in a
suitable manner but preferably by the application of a moderate degree of beat
say not exceeding 100° F according to the quality of the shellac or the stiffening
material, not sufficient however to melt the shellac which is left in the body of
the hat and after being dried in the manner any shellac remaining on the surface
may be easily and quickly removed in the form of powder by brushing.
The hat is now subjected to the action of heat sufficient to melt the shellac.
We prefer to accomplish this by subjecting the hats 12 to 18 at once on a block
in a chamber to a steam bath. The steam should have free circulation through
the chamber but not under pressure. The effect of this bath will be to melt
the shellac which on assuming a crystalline condition will impart to the hat
the necessary stiffness.
From the foregoing description it is seen that by our process the shellac is
retained in an amorphous condition in which condition it may be freely removed
from the nap and from the surface whereas in the methods previously employed
the shellac is caused to assume a crystalline form immediately after its appli-
cation and is in this way fixed tightly upon the surface of the hat as well as
in its interior. By our process we keep the shellac in its amorphous condition
so that it can be readily removed from the surface by brushing or washing and
after the surface is thus effectually and thoroughly cleaned we cause the shellac
to assume a crystalline condition.
While we have described the washing process as the primary means for remov-
ing the surplus stiffening material, it is to be understood that this step of the
process may be dispensed with and the surplus material removed in powdered
form by brushing or otherwise acting on the surface of the hat after the latter
is dried subsequent to the application of the stiffening material.
Dated this fith day of April 1800
WM. P. THOMPSON & Co.,
6, Bank Street, Manchester, Patent Agents.
We, JOHN HENRY NEAVE, of Rainow, Macclesfield, in the County of Chester,
Hat Manufacturer, and FELIX DEHAN, of Louviers, in the Department of Eure,
France, Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement:
This invention has reference to the manufacture of felt hats or hats of analogous
materials and relates more particularly to the "stiffening" of the hat.

page_text: :
a
It has been the custom in the manufacture of hats as far as we are aware in
stiffening" the same to apply to the hat a solution containing a resinous or
analagous material and then immediately subject it to the action of heat at a
degree sufficient to melt the resinous material which on cooling assumes
crystalline condition and renders the hat stiff. The surface was then cleared by
the action of steam by rubbing it with an abrasive substance or by subjecting
it to an alkaline bath. The result of these operations is that the stiffening
material being near the surface of the hat is liable to be brought to the surface
and the surface thereby marred by the subsequent manipulation of the hat to
finish it.
It is the aim of our invention primarily to avoid the liability of the stiffening
material being brought to the surface after the latter is cleaned and to this end
our invention consists broadly in applying the stiffening material in an amorphous
condition then subjecting the surface of the hat to a clearing process to remove
the surplus material and finally subjecting the hat to the action of a sufficient
degree of heat to melt the stiffening material and cause it to assume a crystaline
condition and thereby stiffen the hat.
The invention also consists in an improved apparatus for use in our improved
process.
In the accompanying drawings:
The figure represents an elevation of the apparatus partly in section by which
the hat is treated after receiving the stiffening material.
In proceeding to carry our invention into effect we first prepare a bath of
the stiffening material which may consist of a solution of some resinous gum
such as rosin or shellac preferably the latter with the proper proportion of
alkali. This bath is prepared in the usual and well known manner the shellac
being in an amorphous or non-crystalline condition. The hat to be stiffened
is treated in this bath in the usual manner by immersion or otherwise. It is
now instead of being subjected to the influence of a sufficient degree of heat to
melt the shellac and cause it to assume a crystaline form as under the previous
methods subjected to a washing or cleaning operation to clear the surplus solution
from the surface it being possible while the shellac is in this condition to more
thoroughly free it from the hat than if it were in a crystaline and stiff condition.
The result of the clearing of the surface of the hat at this stage is that the shellac
is freed from the hat to a considerable extent and remaining only in the interior
of the hat thereby avoiding any liability of its being brought to the su.face by
any finishing process or treatment to which it might thereafter be subjected.
We prefer to effect the clearing of the surface by the apparatus represented in
the accompanying drawings comprising a rotary block A over which the hat is
stretched and on which water is allowed to flow from a pipe B the cleaning being
effected by rubbing a brush in contact with the rapidly moving surface.
The block A is fixed to the upper end of a vertical shaft C mounted in a bearing
in a frame D the lower end of the shaft having fixed to it a bevelled gear E
driven by a bevelled gear F on a horizontal drive shaft G mounted in the frame
and having fixed to its end a drive pulley H. The block is surrounded by a
trough I to receive the water thrown from the surface of the revolving hat and
from this trough the water flows into a reservoir K through a pipe L. From the
reservoir the water is elevated to a cistern M by a pump N and flows from the
cistern through the pipe B and onto the hat thereunder the flow of the water being
controlled by a cock 0.
The block should be driven at from 200 to 300 revolutions per minute and
while the water trickles over the surface of the hat it is brushed by the attendant
the result being that the surface is thoroughly cleansed of the shellac and the
material of the hat freed of the shellac to a considerable depth. After the
surface is sufficiently cleansed the water remaining may be removed by placing
the hat on a block similar to that just described and rotating the same at from
1200 to 1500 revolutions per minute. The hat is then thoroughly dried in a

page_text: suitable manner but preferably by the application of a moderate degree of heat
say not exceeding 100 F according to the quality of the shellac or the stiffening
material, not sufficient however to melt the shellac' which is left in the body of
the hat and after being dried in this manner any shellac remaining on the surface
may be easily and quickly removed in the form of powder by brushing.
The hat is now subjected to the action of heat sufficient to melt the shellac.
We prefer to accomplish this by subjecting the hats 12 to 18 at once on a block
in a chamber to a steam bath. The steam should have free circulauon through
the chamber but not under pressure. The effect of this bath will be to melt
the shellac which on assuming a crystaline condition will impart to the hat
the necessary stiffness.
From the foregoing description it is seen that by our process the shellac is
retained in an amorphous condition in which condition it may be freely removed
from the nap and from the surface whereas in the methods previously employed
the shellac is caused to assume a crystaline form immediately after its appli-
cation and is in this way fixed tightly upon the surface of the hat as well as
in its interior. By our process we keep the shellac in its amorphous condition
so that it can be readily removed from the surface by brushing or washing and
after the surface is thus effectively and thoroughly cleaned we cause the shellac
to assume a crystaline condition.
While we have described the washing process as the primary means for remov-
ing the surplus stiffening material it is to be understood that this step of the
process may be dispensed with and the surplus material removed in powdered
form by brushing or otherwise acting on the surface of the hat after the latter
is dried subsequent to the application of the stiffening material.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said in-
vention and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what
we claim is:-
1. The improved process of stiffening hats which consists in applying thereto
a resinous material in an amorphous condition removing the said material from
the surface of the hat while in this condition and finally causing the remaining
resinous material to assume a crystaline form substantially as described.
2. The improved process of stiffening hats which consists in applying to the
same a resinous material in an amorphous condition subjecting the surface of the
hat to a washing process drying the same subjecting the surface to a brushing
action and finally causing the remaining resinous material to assume a crystaline
form substantially as described.
3. The improved process of stiffening hats which consists in applying to the
hat a resinous material in an amorphous condition removing the material from
the surface of the hat and subjecting the hat to a steam bath to cause the remain-
ing resinous material to assume a crystaline form substantially as described.
4. The process of stiffening hats which consists in applying to the same shellac
or analogous resinous material in an amorphous condition subjecting the hat
to a washing action to remove the shellac from its surface drying the hat: sub-
jecting the dried surface to a brushing action and finally subjecting it to heat
to melt the shellac substantially as described.
"
5. Apparatus for use in the treatment or stiffening of felt hats constructed
and arranged substantially as described and shown.
L
WM. P. THOMPSON & Co.,
Manchester, Liverpool & London, Patent Agents.