IMPROVEMENTS IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF SEWING MACHINES, AND IN THE MODE OF OPERATING SUCH MACHINERY
Year: 1857

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Alfred Vincent Newton, of the Office for Patents,
66, Chancery Lane, in the County of Middlesex, Mechanical Draughts-
man, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF SEWING
MACHINES, AND IN THE MODE OF OPERATING SUCH MACHINERY."-A com-
munication
Sealed the 19th March 1858, and dated the 21st October 1857.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Alfred Vincent Newton
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
21st October 1857.
I, ALFRED VINCENT NEWTON, of the Office for Patents, 66, Chancery Lane,
in the County of Middlesex, Mechanical Draughtsman, do hereby declare the
nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF
SEWING MACHINES, AND IN THE MODE OF OPERATING SUCH MACHINERY," to be as
follows:-
The object of this Invention is to producé, by machinery, stronger seams
than are now obtained; and also to render sewing machinery more efficient in
its action than heretofore. To produce a strong seam, the Inventor forms
what he terms a "double back stitch," which is made as follows:-Pass a loop
of thread through the fabric to be sewed, then pass through the fabric and
through the first loop (from the same side of the fabric as the first loop)
another loop from another thread, then pass through the fabric another loop
J

page_text: from the first thread, through its own first loop and the loop of the second thread.
This stitch is obtained by means of two needles working at such angles to each
other that they cross beneath the table and work through each other's loops.
The holder of one of these needles works in parallel vertical guides as usual,
and the other, or that of the diagonal needle in a slotted guide, which permits
of its swaying to and fro under the action of the slide of the vertical needle
to which it is connected, and the counter action of a spring attached to any
convenient part of the machine. The holder of the diagonal needle is so con-
nected with the vertical needle holder (by means of a rock lever slotted at its
opposite ends, to receive pins from the needle holders or other equivalent
mechanism), that it is dependent upon it for its up-and-down motion, and
therefore when properly set, it will operate so as to ensure the proper taking-
up of the loops formed below the cloth. Suitable stops are provided, both
above and below the table of the machine to limit the vibratory movement of
the diagonal needle, and the stop below the table serves also to sustain the
needle against any extra pull of the cloth by which the needle would otherwise
be liable to get broken.
:
In adapting this arrangement to make the single thread or "tambour stitch,"
it is only necessary to remove the thread from the diagonal needle when it
immediately becomes a simple looper to take the thread from the vertical needle,
instead of passing a loop through the loop formed by that needle.
This Invention relates, secondly, to improvements in sewing machines, in
which the looping apparatus is placed on the opposite side of the cloth to that
on which the needle is operated for the purpose of completing or assisting to
complete the stitch partly formed by the needle. In this arrangement also,
the looper is caused to derive its motion from the movement of the needle
holder, but through the medium of the needle instead of a cross lever.
The looper is so mounted, that in its motion it crosses the line of feed, for
the purpose of opening the loop for the needle to pass through it in its next
descent. The looper is attached to a slotted lever which works on a fixed
pivot a short distance below the table of the machine.
The lever is pressed upwards by a spring, whereby the looper is thrown up
as high as the underside of the table. In the slot of the lever works a pin,
which is secured to a slider carried by vertical fixed guides, parallel with the
needle. This slider is provided with a small eye or ring, which is directly in
line with the needle and is large enough for the point of the needle to pass
through without injury, but not large enough for the passage of the needle
stem. During the greater part of the descent of the needle, the looper is held
up by the spring, but shortly before the descent terminates, the needle enters

page_text: the eyes of the slider, and driving it down causes the point of the looper to be
thrown to the opposite side of the needle to that on which it stood when raised
up to the table. The point of the looper works close to the needle as it passes
it, and when the lever is allowed by the ascent of the needle to be raised by
the spring, the looper passes into and retains the loop extended, until the
needle passes and carries the thread through it to form the next loop. By the
looper working in a diagonal direction to the line of feed, the loop of thread
is so spread open that the needle in its next descent passes through it.
In order to prevent the closing of the loop, under the sharp edge of the hole
in the table, through which the needle works, a fixed rounded piece is pro-
vided for the loop to rest against, this tends to keep it open, and also to
prevent it slipping over the point of the looper. Instead of the eye or ring,
two small rollers may be attached to the slider for the needle to pass between
to drive it down; this device may be preferable to the employment of the eye
or ring.
As a modification of the above, the looper may consist of a curved and
pointed piece of metal placed in a bearing attached to the stand of the machine,
on that side of the needle from which the cloth or other fabric to be sewed is
moved towards the needle by the feed motion. The bearing is inclined to the
work table or face of the cloth, but it is parallel with the direction of the feed
movement. The point of the looper is curved towards the needle, and it is
also curved slightly downwards. When the looper is free, it rests, upon a fixed
rest attached to the stand of the machine, occupying a nearly horizontal
position, and in this position the point nearly meets the line of motion of the
needle, so that the needle and thread will pass it in their descent through the
cloth, but so that as the formation of the loop is commenced by the slackening
of the thread; when the needle commences rising, the thread will pass under
the point of the looper, as the loop is drawn up through the cloth by the
continued movement of the needle, it catches the said point and swings it up
nearly close to the cloth, a little behind where the needle passes through,
leading the loop to such a position that the needle must pass through it in its
next descent. The looper is then liberated by the loop slipping off it, and falls
by gravitation to its first position on the rest ready to catch the next loop. Its
fall may, however, be accelerated by a spring.
Instead of the oscillating or rising and falling movement of the looper, a
rotary movement may be employed, by attaching a number of looping hooks to
a central pivot. In this case the movement of each hook or looper, by the
loop as described, brings the next one into a position to be caught by the
succeeding loop.

page_text: .
In order to interlace the loops formed by the vertical needle with a second
thread, so as to make a double chain stitch, a second needle is, as is well
known, employed in place of a simple looper.
As an improvement upon this class of machines, the under needle is
mounted on a crank lever, to the tail end of which is fastened one end of a
spring, the other end of the spring being attached to the frame of the machine.
This spring operates so as to force the long arm of the needle-holder against a
stop pin; a guard or finger is placed just out of range of the needle, for the
purpose of preventing the loop of the upper needle from hugging the under
needle, and assisting also to cast off the loop during the backward motion of
the rocking needle-holder.
This needle-holder derives its motion from the motion of the upper or vertical
needle-holder, the said motion being transmitted thereto by the downward
thrust of the vertical needle, between a projection on the needle-holder and
the stop-pin before mentioned; but this mode of actuating the needle is not
absolutely necessary.
The under needle is set in such a manner that its motion is in a diagonal
direction to the line of feed, for the purpose of opening the loop of the under
needle, so that the vertical needle may pass through it.
The under needle is curved, so that although its holder vibrates only in one
direction, the needle appears to curve partly round the vertical needle as it
makes its upward motion.
It is also slightly curved downward, that is to say, its point moves in a
segment of a circle of smaller diameter than its stem. If both ends of the
needle were equidistant from the centre of motion, the loop of the upper
needle would sometimes be in such a position that the needle would, on its
next descent, pass through its own loop, but by curving the needle in the
manner described, the loop draws out of the way of the needle, so that the
stitch is completed in a proper manner.
For regulating the length of the stitches, the following contrivance is
adopted: A pin on the vertical needle-holder during its descent forces down
one end of a rock lever to which the stitch regulator is jointed, and lifts the
regulator. During its upward motion, a spring attached to the regulator comes
into action, and gives the regulator a backward movement. The extent of
this retrograde movement is governed by a set screw, which passes through a
guide in which the regulator works, the regulator striking the extremity of the
screw at each stroke; when the motion of the needle is reversed, the spring
forces the teeth of the regulator upon the fabric that lies below it, and causes
it to hold or bite the material being sewed. As soon as the needle has risen

page_text: clear of the cloth, the latter is drawn along (by the hand of the operator) until
its movement is stopped by the regulator coming in contact with the end of its
guide; this of course limits the length of stitch.
The last part of the Invention consists in a "feeding hook" for feeding the
fabric to be sewed.
The "feeding hook" consists either of a straight arm terminating in a
single sharp hooked point, or a forked arm terminating in two sharp hooked
points.
The latter form is perhaps preferable, as the points which are to catch hold-
of the fabric, and draw it along, will operate on both sides of the needle.
In the ordinary elastic foot or presser, which holds down the work on the
table, slots are formed for the prongs to pass through. The "feeding hook".
is attached by a traverse pin to an upright lever which hangs on a fulcrum pin
secured to the stand, so as to be capable of swinging in a vertical plane or
planes parallel with the intended direction of the feed movement of the cloth.
The feeding hook" may be made of sufficient weight for ensuring the
insertion of its points in the fabric, or a spring may be used to insure their
insertion.
The necessary reciprocating of the "feeding hook" is effected by the com-
bined action of a wiping cam piece, attached to the needle bar for the purpose
of wiping against the pendant lever which carries the hook at every rise of
the needle bar, and by a spring, which throws back the lever against a stop
attached to the stand. The points only catch the cloth during their movement
in the direction in which they incline, but when moving in the opposite direction
they slide over the surface. The length of feed may be varied to regulate the
length of stitch, either by moving the stop which is made excentric for that
purpose, or by shifting the wiping piece to throw its point in or out.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Alfred Vincent Newton in the Great Seal Patent Office on
the 21st April 1858.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, ALFRED
VINCENT NEWTON, of the Office for Patents, 66, Chancery Lane, in the County.
of Middlesex, Mechanical Draughtsman, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters.
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-first day of October, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-seven, in the twenty-first year of Her

page_text: reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the
said Alfred Vincent Newton, Her special license that I, the 'said Alfred
Vincent Newton, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as
I, the said Alfred Vincent Newton, my executors, administrators, and assigns,
should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all
times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might
make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain
and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IM-
PROVEMENTS IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF SEWING MACHINES, AND IN THE MODE OF
OPERATING SUCH MACHINERY," being a communication 'from abroad, upon the
condition (amongst others) that I, the said Alfred Vincent Newton, by an
instrument in writing under my hand and seal, should particularly describe
and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same
was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal
Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the
date of the said Letters Patent.
. NOW KNOW YE, that, I, the said Alfred Vincent Newton, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is.
to be performed, to be particularly' described and ascertained in and by the
following statement, reference being had to the Drawings hereunto annexed,
and to the letters and figures marked thereon (that is to say):―
This Invention, as communicated to me by my foreign correspondent,
embraces the following improvements :-First, a new stitch made with two
threads, called a "double back stitch;" and secondly, a machine for making
this stitch by means of two needles; third, a new method of making the well-
known "tambour stitch," in which one of the above needles is made to operate
as a looper; fourth, another method of making the "tambour stitch," con-
sisting in a new device for operating the looper beneath the table of the
machine, by means of a connection with the needle-holder, and also a new
arrangement of the looper to enable the needle to pass through the loop on its
next descent through the cloth; fifth, another apparatus for producing the
"tambour stitch," in which the looper is caught by the thread as the needle
rises, and is held in such position as to open the loop for the needle to pass
through in its next descent; sixth, a new machine for making the stitch
known as the "double chain stitch," in which two needles are used, one
passing vertically through the cloth, and the other working horizontally and
through the loop of the first needle, and also a new method of operating the
horizontal needle, so that its motion shall be dependent on the motion of the
vertical needle-holder; seventh, a new apparatus designed to regulate the

page_text: length of stitch in that class of machines in which the cloth is drawn through
the machine by a weight or the hand of the operator; eighth, a novel device
for producing what is known as the "feed movement" of the cloth in sewing
machines.
The first; second, and third parts of the Invention are illustrated in Sheet I.
of the accompanying Drawings, in which Fig. 1 is a front view, shewing one
of the angles which the two needles form in relation to each other, and also
shewing the oblique needle in two positions. Fig. 2 is a side view shewing
the other angle formed by the two needles. Fig. 3 shews the position of the
needles as the second needle j enters the loop of the first needle i. Fig. 4
shews the first needle i, after it has passed through it own loop, passing through
the loop of the second needle j. Fig. 5 shews the loops of both needles
around the first needle i, previous to the tightening of the stitch. Fig. 6
shews the second needle j operating as a looper. to form the single thread or
chain stitch, taking the loop from the needle i. Fig. 7 represents the second
needle holding the loop for the first needle i to pass through. Fig. 8 shews
the position of the needles when this stitch is completed; and Fig. 9 is a
magnified view of the two-thread stitch made by this machine.
The first improvement which relates to the production by machinery of the
stitch shewn in Fig. 9, and called the "double back stitch," is made as
follows: Pass a loop of thread through the fabric to be sewed, then pass
through the fabric and through the first loop (from the same side of the fabric
as the first loop), another loop from another thread. Then pass through the
fabric another loop from the first thread through its own first loop and the
loop of the second thread.
The second improvement relates to the machine for making the above
stitch in which two needles are used, working at such angles to each other
that they cross beneath the table and work through each other's loops.
"
The third improvement consists in a new method of making the well-known
"tambour or "chain stitch," which is accomplished by using one of the
above-mentioned needles j, as the looper to catch and hold open the loop of
thread for the other needle i to pass through.
A, A, A, is the frame of the machine, which may be made of any fanciful or
convenient form; B is a needle-holder, working vertically between guides
C, C', attached to the frame A; D is another needle-holder, set to run in such
a manner as regards the holder B, that the needles i, j, shall cross each other
below.the table S, the holder D having such a relative position to the holder
B as to form with it the angles shewn in Figures 1 and 2. Motion is
imparted to the holder B by turning the handle E, which is attached to one

page_text: end of a shaft F, which runs through a tube F¹, the said tube serving as a
bearing for the shaft. The other end of the shaft is bent so as to form a crank
G, which operates the holder B by means of the pitman H, the said pitman
being connected to the holder B by the screw I. The second needle-holder D
derives its motion from a pin J on the holder B, which pin works in a zig-zag
slot K in the driver L. This driver works on a pivot a, screwed into the
guide C, and operates the holder D by means of a pin b attached to the
holder and working in a slot c, in the other end of the driver L. M is the foot
for holding down the fabric R to the table of the machine S, the said foot
being fastened to the guide C¹ by the screws d, e; N, O, are guides for the
holder D, attached to the guide C by screws f, f. f.
to allow the holder D a vibrating motion, as indicated by the red lines in
Fig. 1. P is a spring attached to the guide C, and imparting a backward
motion to the holder D, after the needle has risen clear of the fabric; gis a
set screw passing through the guide N to limit the backward motion of the
'holder D; U, V, are two spools running on a spindle W, attached to the
frame A; k, l, are tension pins, around which the threads are wound to give
the requisite tightness to the stitch; m, n, o, p, are thread guides to carry the
'thread to the needles i, j.
The guide N is slotted
The operation of the machine when making the "double back stitch" may
be described as follows:-The machine being fastened to a table in any
convenient manner, the needle i is raised to its highest point, and the upper
end of the driver L is slipped from under the pin J, thereby lifting the needle
clear of the table, so that the cloth or material to be sewed may be
introduced between the foot M and the table S. The needle-holder D is now
returned to its proper position, and the machine is ready for work. The
operator should now take hold of the fabric with his left hand, giving it a
steady moderate pull towards himself, and at the same time working the
machine by turning the handle E with his right hand. As the first needle i
descends the second needle ; rises, and as the latter clears the fabric, the
spring P gives the holder D a backward motion corresponding to the length
of stitch. The extent of this motion is regulated by the holder D coming in
contact with the point of the set screw g. As the first needle i begins to rise
it forms a loop in its thread, and the second needle j in its downward motion
passes through the said loop, taking with it a loop of its own thread as seen in
Fig. 3.
As the first needle i completes its upward motion the fabric is moved
the length of a stitch, this causes the second needle; to assume the position
shewn in black in Fig. 1, the red outline shewing the position of the needle
previous to this motion. The forward motion of the holder D is limited by

page_text: the holder coming in contact with the fixed screw h, and by the needle
pressing against the stop T. This stop serves to sustain the needle; against
any extra pull on the fabric, which would otherwise break or bend it. When
the second needle j begins to rise, it forms a loop also, and the first needle i,
as it descends, passes through its own loop (which is held in a proper position
by needle ), and through the loop of the said second needle j, as shewn in
Figures 4 and 5. As the first needle i finishes its downward motion, the loop
of that needle is liberated by the rising of the second needle j, and the loop is
drawn tightly around the first needle, thereby finishing the stitch. A succes-
sion of these movements completes a line of what the Inventor calls "double
back stitching."
To make the single thread or "tambour stitch," it is only necessary to
remove the thread from the second needle j, when it immediately becomes a
simple looper to take the thread from the needle i, as seen in Fig. 6, and hold
it in position for that needle to pass through it in its next descent, as shewn in
Fig. 7. The operation of the machine, in making this stitch may be briefly
described as follows:-The needle i on its first descent carries a loop of thread
through the fabric R. As the needle i rises, the loop bows or spreads out, so
that the needle j, which is now making its downward motion, passes through
the loop, as seen in Fig. 6. When the needle i has completed its upward
motion, and the needle j its descent, the loop of thread is held open by the
needle j, as shewn in Fig. 7, for the needle i to pass through in its next
descent. As the needle i descends, the needle j, by rising, casts off the loop
which is drawn tight around the stem of the needle i, as represented in
5 Fig. 8. A continuation of these motions makes a line of "tambour
stitching."
The fourth part of the Invention is illustrated in Sheet II. of the accom-
panying. Drawings, in which Fig. 1 is a front view of a sewing machine,
shewing an improved arrangement of looper; Fig. 2 is a vertical central
0 section of the same; and Fig. 3 is a detached view of the looping apparatus,
shewing it in a position different to that shewn in Fig 1; Fig. 4 is another
view of the looping instrument, shewing the loop opened for the needle to pass
through.
This part of the Invention consists, first, in so arranging and applying
5 a looping apparatus, placed on the opposite side of the cloth to that on
which the needle is operated, for the purpose of completing or assisting
to complete the stitch partly formed by the needle, that it shall derive its
motion from the movement of the needle-holder through the medium of
the needle instead of a cross lever like the machine shewn in Sheet I.;

page_text: secondly, this part of the Invention consists in a new method of opening
the loop of thread, so that the needle in its next descent through the fabric
shall pass through the loop. This is effected by running the looper at an angle
to the line of feed (as shewn in Fig. 4 of Sheet II.), which so spreads the loop
as to cause the needle to pass through it.
A is the cloth table; a is the needle which carries the thread, and is
operated in the same manner as the vertical needle in the machine shewn in
Sheet I.; 6 is a looper, which, as the needle rises, passes through the loop
formed by the needle. The looper in its motion crosses the line of feed for the
purpose of opening the loop for the needle to pass through it in its next
descent, as shown in Fig. 4 of Sheet II. The looper is attached to a slotted
lever c, which works on a pivot d secured in the frame or stand B of the
machine a short distance below the table A. The lever c has a spring h
applied to it in such a way as to throw up the looper as high as the underside
of the table A, as shewn in Fig. 3. It is provided with a slot i to receive a
pin e, which is secured to a slider f, which works in a fixed slide 9 parallel
with the needle. This slider f is provided with a small eye or ring j, which is
directly in line with the needle, and is large enough for the point of the needle
to pass through without injury, but not sufficiently large for the passage of the
needle stem. During the greater part of the descent of the needle the looper
is held up by the spring h to the position shewn in Fig. 3, but shortly before
the descent terminates the needle enters the eye j of the slider f, and as it is
not able to pass through it, it drives down the slider, whose pin e carries down
the lever c far enough to throw the point of the looper 6 to the opposite side of
the needle to that on which it stands when it is raised up to the table. The
point of the looper works close to the needle as it passes it, and when the
lever is allowed by the ascent of the needle to be raised by the spring, the
looper passes into and retains and extends the loop, as shewn in Fig. 3, until
the needle passes and carries the thread through it to form the next loop.
It will be seen, on examining the Drawings, that the looper works in a diagonal
direction to the line of feed, as shewn by the arrow in Fig. 4 of Sheet II.
By this means the loop of thread is so spread open, that the needle in its next
descent passes through it. In order to prevent the closing of the loop under
the sharp edge of the hole k in the table A, through which the needle works,
a fixed rounded piece is provided for the loop to rest against; this tends to
keep it open, and also to prevent it slipping over the point of the looper.
Instead of the eye or ring j, two small rollers may be attached to the slider for
the needle to pass between to drive it down; this device may be preferable to
the employment of the eye or ring.

page_text: The fifth part of the Invention is illustrated in Sheet III. of the accom-
panying Drawings, in which Fig. 1 is a front view of the principal parts of a
sewing machine constructed according to this Invention; Fig. 2 is a side view
of those parts by which the stitch is produced; and Fig. 3 is a
plan of the
same on an enlarged scale. This part of the Invention consists in a looper of
novel character operating in combination with a needle of the usual kind
to produce the stitch generally known as the "chain stitch" with a single
thread.
a is the needle, operating in the same manner as the needle in other sewing
machines which produce the "chain stitch;" b is the looper arranged beneath.
the work table A of the machine. This looper.consists of a curved and
pointed piece of metal, whose peculiar form will be understood by reference to
the Drawings, and which is made with a pivot 61, which is placed in a'
bearing B attached to the stand C of the machine on that side of the needle
from which the cloth or other fabric to be sewn is moved towards the needle
by the feed motion, as seen in Fig. 1, where the direction of the feed is
indicated by an arrow c. The bearing B is inclined to the work table or face
of the cloth, as seen in Fig. 1, where the cloth is represented by a blue line;"
but the bearing is parallel with the direction of the feed movement, as shewn
in Fig. 2. The point of the looper is curved towards the needle, (see Fig. 3,)
and it is also curved slightly downwards, as seen in Figures 1 and 2. When
the looper is free, it rests upon a fixed rest d attached to the stand C of the
machine, occupying a nearly horizontal position, as shewn in Figures 1 and 2 in
black outline, and in this position the point nearly meets the line of motion.
of the needle, so that the needle and thread will pass it in their descent
through the cloth, but so that as the formation of the loop is commenced by:
the slackening of the thread; when the needle commences rising, the thread
will pass under the point of the looper (as shewn in Figures 1 and 2, where
the thread is shewn in blue color,) as the loop is drawn up through the cloth.
by the continued movement of the needle it catches the said point and swings
it up nearly close to the cloth, a little behind where the needle passes through
(as shewn in red outline in Figures 1 and 2), leading the loop to such a
position that the needle must pass through it in its next descent. The looper
is then liberated by the loop slipping off it, and falls by gravitation to its first.
position on the rest d ready to catch the next loop. Its fall may, however, be
accelerated by a spring. By the repetition of this operation and the usual-
feed movement of the cloth (which last may be produced by any of the devices.
commonly employed) a seam or line of stitching is produced. The operation
of the looper is assisted by arranging the eye of the needle obliquely to the.

page_text: seam (as shewn in Fig. 3, where the needle is shewn in section,) and by
employing a guide e of wire to lead the opening loop over the point of the
looper. The escape of the loop from the looper at the proper time and in the
proper direction for the needle to pass through it is assisted by a fixed guide f
of wire, arranged behind the stitching point of the cloth in such a position
that the looper near its point will strike it. Instead of the oscillating or rising
and falling movement of the looper, a rotatory movement may be employed by
attaching a number of loopers to the pivot b', as shewn in the Diagram, Fig. 4.
By this means the movement of each looper by the loop, as described, brings
the next one into a position to be caught by the succeeding loop.
The sixth and seventh parts of the Invention are illustrated by Sheet IV.
of the Drawings, in which Fig. 1 is a side view of the improved machine;
Fig. 2 is a front view, showing the regulator d in two positions, the black
Drawing showing the position of the regulator when the needle is at its highest'
range, and the red outline when the needle is at its lowest; Fig. 3 is a mag-
nified side view of the needles in two positions, the black Drawing representing
the vertical needle in the highest part of its upward motion, and the red out-
line at the lowest part of its downward thrust; Fig. 4 is a top view of the
needles in the same positions as the last Figures; Fig. 5 shows the relative
positions of the two needles as the loop of red thread is escaping from the point
of the under needle w; Fig. 6 shows the under needle w carrying its thread
through the loop of the vertical needle; Fig. 7 is a largely magnified view of
the stitch made by this machine, in which a represents the cloth, a the thread
of the vertical needle, and 6 that of the under needle.
These parts of the Invention relate to that description of machine known as
the "double-chain stitch" machine, which interlaces two threads by means of
two needles passing through each other's loops, and also to a new method of
regulating the length of the stitches, which may be applied to any description
of sewing machine.
A, A, A, is the frame of the machine, which may be of any fanciful form;
B is the needle-holder working in guides C, C, which are attached to and sup-
ported by the frame A. Motion is imparted to the machine by turning the
handle D, which is attached by means of the crank E to one end of a shaft
(not shewn in the Drawing) that runs in a tube F, F, the said tube serving as
bearings to support that shaft. The other end of the shaft is bent, so as to.
form a crank G, which operates the holder B by means of the pitman H, con-
nected to the holder B by a screw I. J is an instrument termed the "regu-
lator," which is pivoted at one end to the cross lever K; the other end of the
regulator is notched or formed into teeth to hold or bite the fabric to be sewn,

page_text: and works through a slot v in the foot L; the cross lever K is pivoted to one
of the guides C by the screw d; M is a spring, one end of which is attached to
the regulator J, and the other end to the guide C; the spring M imparts a
backward and downward motion to the regulator J; N is a pin on the needle-
holder B, which pin striking one end of the cross lever K and lifting up the
other end, thereby imparts an upward motion to the regulator J; O is a guide
through which the regulator works; P1 and P2 are pins, round which the
threads are wound to give them the requisite tension; Q is a plate fastened to
the bottom part of the frame of the machine by screws e, e; l'is the holder of
the under needle w working on a rock shaft m (sce Fig. 3). To one end of
the holder the needle w is attached by a screw r, and to the other end of the
holder is fastened a coiled spring R, which is attached to the frame of the
machine. This spring operates so as to force the long arm of the needle-
holder against a stop pin p. The cloth is represented at q; and r is the table
of the machine; s is a guard or finger, which prevents the loop of the upper
needle-from hugging the under needle w, and which helps to cast off the loop
during the backward motion of the needle w. The arrows and the dotted
line x, x, (Figure 4,) show the direction in which the cloth is fed; S¹ and S² are
spools, which run on spindles T, T, attached to the frame. The thread for the
upper needle is taken from the spool S¹ and wound round the pin P¹ to give it
the necessary tension; from thence it is passed through the thread guide
1, 2, 3, and the eye of the upper needle c; the thread for the under needle is
passed from spool S² round the pin P2, and through the thread guide in the
needle-holder and the eye of the needle w.
In this machine the under needle-holder derives its motion from the upper
or vertical needle-holder B, the said motion being transmitted from the holder
B to the holder 1 by means of the needle c. To show that this is the case, it
is only necessary to disconnect the needle-holder B from the crank G (by
removing the screw I) and to work the needle-holder up and down by hand,
when all the movements of the machine will go on as usual. It is not abso-
lutely necessary that the needle c should perform the functions of a trans-
mitter of motion from one needle-holder to the other, as other devices may be
used, such as a > shaped lever pivoted at its elbow to the frame A, and the
two arms being connected to the two needle-holders in such a manner that' the
motion imparted to one holder shall operate the other.
'
It will be observed on examining Fig. 4 that the under needle w is set in
such a manner that its motion is in a diagonal direction to the line of feed
(the latter being represented by the dotted line x, x,) for the purpose of open-

page_text: ing the loop of the under needle, so that the vertical needle may pass through
it, as will be apparent by studying the position of the needles in Fig. 4.
It will also be seen by considering the same Fig. 4 that the needle w is
curved, so that although the holder / vibrates only in one direction, the needle
w appears to curve partly round the vertical needle as it makes its upward
motion. The object of this curve is to prevent the loop of the upper thread
from being carried too much out of the line of the feed motion, as in that case
it is apt to carry the under thread with it, thereby bending the loop of the
under thread in the wrong direction and causing the vertical needle to miss
passing through it on its next descent.
The under needle w is also slightly curved downwards (as shewn in Fig. 6),
that is to say, its point moves in a segment of a circle of smaller diameter than
its stem. If both ends of the needle w were equidistant from the rock shaft m
or centre of motion, the loop of the upper needle would sometimes be in such
a position that the needle would on its next descent pass through its own loop,
but by curving the needle in the manner described, the loop draws out of the
way of the needle, so that the stitch is completed in a proper manner.
Having thus described the peculiarities of that part of the Invention which
constitutes the apparatus for making the "double chain stitch," I will now
proceed to describe the operation of the machine. The needles being supplied
with thread, and the vertical needle being raised to its highest range (as seen
in Figures 1 and 2), the regulator J is lifted clear of the table, and the fabric
to be sewn is introduced between the foot L and the table r.
The operator
then takes hold of the fabric with his left hand, and draws it towards himself,
with a steady regular pull, at the same time giving motion to the machine by
turning the handle with his right hand. As the needle descends through the
cloth, the point of the needle passes between the pin p and a projection on the
under needle-holder l, and acting as a wedge, the needle forces the under
needle-holder away from the pin p, thereby giving the under needle w the
position shewn in red outline in Fig. 3. As the vertical needle rises it forms a
loop, through which the under needle is passed by the action of the spring o,
as seen in Fig. 6. As the vertical needle continues its upward motion, the
under one assumes the position represented by the black lines in Figures 3
and 4.
So long as the needle remains in the cloth or fabric the latter is kept
stationary by the action of the needle, but as soon as the needle is clear the
cloth is drawn along (by the hand of the operator) a distance equal to one
stitch. The upper needle is again passed through the cloth, and through the

page_text: loop of the under needle; then, as the upper needle finishes its downward
movement it forces back the under needle w, and the first loop of the upper
needle (being assisted by the guard s) escapes from off the point of the under
needle. As the vertical needle rises the second time the under needle again
passes through its loop, as before. A succession of these movements makes a
line of "double chain stitching," as represented at Fig. 7.
.
The operation of the "stitch regulator" may be described as follows:-As
the needle finishes its downward motion, a pin N on the needle-holder B,
forces down one end of the cross lever K, thereby lifting the regulator J, which
is pivoted to the other end of the lever. During its upward motion the spring
M comes into action, giving the regulator J a backward movement, as repre-
sented in red in Fig. 2. The extent of this retrograde movement is governed
by a set screw u, which passes through the guide o, the regulator J striking.
the extremity of the screw u at each stroke, the length of the stitch being
dependent on the extent to which the screw u projects through the guide o.
When the motion of the needle is reversed, the spring M. forces the teeth of
the regulator upon the fabric, so as to hold or bite the material being sewn.
As before observed, the cloth cannot move so long as the needle is in it, but as
soon as the needle has risen clear of the cloth, the latter is drawn along (by
the hand of the operator) until its movement is stopped by the regulator
coming in contact with the end of the guide o. This, of course, limits the
length of stitch.
In the Drawings there is but one row of teeth represented on the regulator,
but several rows may be employed, at the will of the constructor; or the teeth.
may be dispensed with altogether, and a chisel edge substituted; or the bottom.
of the regulator may be made broad and roughened.
Instead of the described regulator, a wheel (with fine teeth, or roughened
so as to bite the material) may be employed, which wheel shall be constantly
pressing on the fabric, and have attached to it a device, to allow it a motion.
corresponding to the length of stitch between every up-and-down motion of the
needle. This is simply an equivalent for the regulator, above described, as it
is equally a biting or holding instrument. It is this biting hold (in contra-
distinction to piercing, which is old) that is regarded as new.
The eighth and last part of the Invention is illustrated in Sheet V, of the
Drawings.
Fig. 1 is a front view of the work table, the needle bar, and its guides, and.
the clamping foot of a sewing machine, shewing also the new feed motion;
and Fig. 2 is a plan of the clamping foot and "feeding hook."
This part of the Invention consists in a "feeding hook," for feeding the fabric.

page_text: to be sewn, the hook being applied and operating as herein-after described.
A is the work table, upon which the cloth or other fabric to be sewn (repre-
sented by a double red line) is placed; B is the stand containing the guides,
in which the needle bar C works; D is the elastic foot, which clamps the fabric,
confines it to the table A, and prevents it rising therefrom when the needle is
withdrawn from it. All the above parts are the same as are found in other
sewing machines.
.a, a, is the "feeding hook," which may consist of a straight arm terminating
in a single sharp hooked point, or of a forked arm, terminating in two sharp
hooked points, as represented in Figures 1 and 2. The latter form is perhaps
preferable, for the reason that the points which are to catch hold of the fabric.
and draw it along will operate on both sides of the needle, slots b, b, being
provided in the foot D, for the said forks to pass through the foot, so that the
fabric may be clamped between the foot and the table all round where the
hooks operate. The "feeding hook" is attached by a traverse pin c to an
upright lever d, which hangs on a fulcrum pin e secured to the stand B, so as
to be capable of swinging in a vertical plane or planes, parallel with the
intended direction of the feed movement of the cloth. The "feeding hook"
may be made of sufficient weight for ensuring the insertion of its points in the
fabric, and permit of their drawing it along when moved in the direction
towards which they incline, as shewn by the arrow in Fig. 1, or if the hook
is not made heavy enough to catch with sufficient tenacity, it may be extended
beyond the pin c, to form a heel a¹, to be connected with the lever d by a light
spring i, for the purpose of forcing the points into the cloth. The weight or
spring does not require to be heavy, but only sufficient to prevent any tripping
action of the hook over the surface of the fabric, as it is not necessary for
the hook to press hard upon the cloth with a clamp-like action, or to con-
fine the cloth to the table, that being done by the clamping foot D. The
hook would also operate as well if the table were made with recesses opposite
to where the points work. The necessary reciprocating of the "feeding hook"
is effected by a wiping piece f attached to the needle bar C, for the purpose of
wiping against the lever d every time the needle bar rises, and by a spring g
which throws back the lever against a stop h attached to the stand B. The
points only catch the cloth during their movement in the direction in which
they incline, as indicated by the arrow in Fig. 1. When moving in the
opposite direction they slide over the surface. The length of feed may be
varied to regulate the length of stitch, either by moving the stop h, which is
made excentric for that purpose, or by shifting the wiping piece f to throw
its point in or out.

page_text: Various devices besides that described may be employed for operating the
hook without altering the character of the Invention.
Having now set forth the nature of the Invention of "Improvements in
the Construction of Sewing Machines, and in the Mode of Operating such
Machinery," as communicated to me from abroad, and explained the manner
of carrying the same into effect, I wish it to be understood that, under the
above in part recited Letters Patent, I claim,―
First, operating the needles of sewing machines so as to form a seam, by
causing a loop of thread that is passed through the fabric to be sewn to
receive a loop taken from another thread from the same side of the material
as the first loop; then passing through the fabric another loop from the first
thread through its own first loop and the loop of the second thread, thus
making, by the aid of two needles, a line of stitching which is called by the
Inventor "double back stitching."
Second, the arrangement and combination of the needles i and j She et I.),
or their equivalents, substantially as described.
Third, when the machine is used for making the "tambour" or "single
thread chain stitch," I claim passing a needle or its equivalent through the
fabric into the loop of the needle i (Sheet I.), so as to hold that loop,
substantially as described.
Fourth, so arranging and applying a needle or looper, or any equivalent
device for completing or assisting to complete the stitch began by the vertical
needle, that it shall derive its motion from the needle-holder B (Sheet I.), or
its equivalent; and this I claim, whether the motion of the needle-holder B
(Sheet I.) is communicated to the other needle-holder or looper through a
lever L or its equivalent, or by means of the vertical needle, as in the fourth
and sixth parts of the Invention, or by any other device in which the motion
of the second needle or looper is dependent on the movement of the other
needle-holder.
Fifth, the stop T, for the purpose of sustaining the needle j (Sheet I.),
substantially as described.
Sixth, giving the looper (b, Sheet II.), or its equivalent, a motion at an
angle to the line of feed, for the purpose of spreading the loop, substantially
as set forth.
Seventh, so arranging and applying the looper (b, Sheet II.), or its
equivalent, by which the loop in the needle-thread is extended or directed,
for the purpose of completing the stitch, that it shall derive its motion from
the needle-holder (B, Sheet II.) through the needle, or its equivalent,
substantially as herein set forth.

page_text: Eighth, the peculiar method herein described of giving motion to the looper,
by means of the needle (a, Sheet II.), the slider f, the lever c, and the
spring h, operating substantially as described.
Ninth, the looper (b, Sheet III.), constructed, applied, and operated
substantially in the manner set forth.
Tenth, constructing the under needle (w, Sheet IV.), and working it
diagonally to the line of feed, as described, whereby its loop of thread is
opened, so that the vertical needle (c, Sheet IV.) may pass through it.
Eleventh, detaining the cloth by means of a regulator (J, Sheet IV.), or
its equivalent, substantially as described.
Twelfth, causing the upper needle-holder B (Sheet IV.) to operate the
under needle-holder (Sheet IV.) through the needle c (Sheet IV.),
substantially as specified.
Thirteenth, the guards (Sheet IV.), operating as described.
Fourteenth, the "feeding hook" a, a, (Sheet V.), having one or more
points, and applied and operating substantially as described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Alfred Vincent Newton, have hereunto.
set my hand and seal, the Twenty-first day of April, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-eight.
Witness,
J. W. MOFFAtt,
66, Chancery Lane.
A. V. NEWTON. (L.S.)