IMPROVEMENTS IN MEANS OR APPARATUS EMPLOYED IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BONNET AND CAP FRONTS, ROUCHES, AND OTHER ARTICLES OF MILLINERY, PARTS OF WHICH IMPROVEMENTS ARE ALSO APPLICABLE IN THE TREAT- MENT OF LACE FOR OTHER PURPOSES
Year: 1860

page_text: PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by William Henry Morrison and
Henry Kinsey at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with their
Petition, on the 10th January 1860.
We, WILLIAM HENRY MORRISON, of Nottingham, Manufacturer, and HENRY
KINSEY, of the same Place, Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of the
said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN MEANS OR APPARATUS EMPLOYED IN THE
MANUFACTURE OF BONNET AND CAP FRONTS, ROUCHES, AND OTHER ARTICLES OF
MILLINERY, PARTS OF WHICH IMPROVEMENTS ARE ALSO APPLICABLE IN THE TREAT-
MENT OF LACE FOR OTHER PURPOSES," to be as follows:-
In the production of bonnet and cap fronts, rouches, and the like there are
employed two principal fabrics, one called the quilling, or that which forms the
central portion of the article, and the edging which has generally been sewn
on to the middle portion. It has been proposed to be applied by simple
adhesion, and one part of the improvements relates to means of applying such,
edging. For this purpose we pass the quilling over suitable rollers in contact
with the upper surface of brushes or other moistening means, revolving in
water or other liquid, by which they impart moisture to the quilling, and we
apply guides so that the edges only or such parts as desired of the quilling
may be moistened, and thence the quilling is conducted to between a pair of
heating cylinders, but previous to being acted upon by these cylinders the
edging is placed in position upon the moistened edges of the quilling, so that
both quilling and edging may be subject to the operation of the beating cylinders,

page_text: and one of these cylinders is made of large diameter in order to the materials
being passed partly around and kept in contact with it for a time to insure
perfect adhesion; thence the fabrics united are conducted by guide rollers to a
creel or winder or otherwise.
Also the improvements relate to means or apparatus for insuring the
measurement of the fabric employed in the manufacture of bonnet and cap
fronts, rouches, and the like. For this purpose we pass the fabric to be
measured between surfaces of india-rubber, kept distended by being supported
between two pairs of rollers, the surface of one of which in connection with
suitable registering apparatus indicates the quantity passed through, by which
considerable facility is given in holding lace and other light fabrics during
measuring.
The improvements also relate to producing a glossy effect upon the fabric
employed by passing it under the action of heated cylinders formed of polished
brass or copper or compounds thereof, instead of using iron for the purpose,
and we previously subject the fabric to moisture by means of jets of steam or
otherwise.
Another improvement relates to steaming and drying the gofferings
employed in the manufacture of bonnet and cap fronts, and for other uses
after they have passed through the goffering machine. For this purpose we
apply to endless bands or chains, passing over suitable pulleys, projections
forming cells or chambers to receive the gofferings as they come from the
goffering apparatus, and keep each pleat or goffer separate whilst first acted
upon by steam to moisten, and then by heat from a hot plate or other means,.
or by the use of hot air to dry them. The indicator may be applied to this
apparatus to indicate the quantity of goffered fabric passed through it.
Another part of the improvements relates to means for folding the fabric
used in the manufacture of cap and bonnet fronts and rouches, and the
application thereto of the "band." For this purpose in using the endless bands
with projections forming cells last referred to, in place of those cells being
continued across the endless bands, they are placed only at each side thereof,
leaving space for a band to be conducted down the middle, and I apply a
knife edge or such like instrument, which may be of a disc form to press on
to and fold the lace to the "band," and I also apply nipping rollers or other
nipping surfaces to act upon the "band" when applied to the fabric to insure
adhesion.
And generally in apparatus used in the manufacture of bonnet and cap
fronts, rouches, and the like, the improvements relate to forming the nipping
surfaces so that when open they form an inclined groove, and when closed

page_text: they are in the same plane, in place of introducing separate slips or plates for
that purpose.
Also the improvements relate to drying the "bands" on to the fronts and
the like by passing them whilst held by endless straps or plates between or
5 over heating surfaces, and these endless straps or plates may also by the
application of levers, bars, or such like means be employed to give the desired
nip or pinching influence on the "bands."