Improvements in Combination Garments and in Corsets, Bodices, Trousers, Kilts, and similar Garments.
Year: 1889

page_text: Date of Application, 23rd Mar.. 1889
Specification Accepted. 8th June, 1889
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Combination Garments and in Corsets, Bodices,
Trousers, Kilts, and similar Garments.
I DAVID GEORGE HOEY, of Commercial Bank Buildings 8 Gordon Street, Glasgow,
Lanarkshire Ventilating Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement:-
This invention has for its object to make ladies' and childrens' underclothing,
men's trousers, kilts, and other garments for human wear on strictly hygienic
principles, so as to fit to the natural contour correctly and with elegance and thus to
eave the body free to assume an erect and graceful poise, and to promote freedom of
healthful play of the vital organs and motor parts.
And in order that my said invention may be properly understood I have hereunto
appended an explanatory sheet of drawings showing various garments made in
accordance with my invention.
On these drawings,
Fig. 1 represents, in side elevation, a combination garment for ladies' wear, con-
sisting of a bodice or corset and a pair of drawers or knickers joined together by
sewing or otherwise.
Figs. 2 and 3, represent, respectively, front and back elevations of the garment.
Fig. 4 represents, in side elevation, a pair of trousers, and fig. 5. a kilt, made in
accordance with my invention.
Referring to figs. 1. 2. and 3.
As seen in these figs. the combination garment for ladies' wear consists of a bodice
or corset, a, and a pair of drawers or knickers, b; the garment is by preference made
of pure woollen material, chamois leather, or other the like open porous materials,
which will promote the health, vigour and elasticity of the wearer, by permitting of
the rapid passage of the exhalations of the body. The bodice or corset, a, which is
preferably carried down in front below the level of the umbilicus, as shown, is by
preference made with two under pieces, C, indicated in dotted lines, one on each side,
over which openings, d, are made in the bodice or corset. These openings, d, are
capable of being drawn together, by lacing, e, or equivalent means, for the purpose of
making the bodice or corset fit closely to the person. As will be seen, the bodice or
corset is so made, that, when in position, the openings, d, and lacing, e, are upon the
hips, so that, when the bodice or corset, a, is fitted to the person, by the drawing
together of the openings, d, the whole strain is borne by the hip bones and lower
part of the spinal column whilst the waist, which by nature is left perfectly free and
I n

page_text: unconstrained for the full play of the vital organs, is so left, with my improved
garment, equally free and unconstrained, and thus wholly relieved from the unnatural
compression occasioned by all existing systems of ladies clothing, and their resulting
injurious effects, often rendered greatly more serious by tight lacing. The under
pieces, c, and openings, d, if desired, may be more or less to the front or back instead
of at the sides; or a single under piece and opening may be made at the back,
so long as the strain of the lacing is entirely borne by the hip bones and lower part
of the spinal column. These underpieces may be dispensed with and the openings
themselves may be drawn together by lacing or equivalent, in the same manner. By
fitting the drawers or knickers to the bodice or corset, the fork prevents any tendency
in the bodice or corset to rise up out of its true position on the person, by sliding
upwards from the broader part of the body at the hips in the direction of the narrower
waist. And, for the more suitable and comfortable fitting of the drawers or knickers,
I make that part, from the front centre of the bodice or corset, passing under-
neath the fork and round to the back centre, where it joins to the bodice or corset,
open, and in two overlapping portions, one part underneath and one over, thus
constituting a sort of double band, from back to front, as indicated at, f, (figs. 2.
and, 3). The bodice or corset may be fastened in front in the usual manner. Instead
of the ordinary steel or other support fitted in the front of corsets, I fit in, or attach
to, the back of the bodice or corset, a, a vertical rib. I, made of flexible steel,
whalebone, or other elastic substance, and preferably provided, at its lower end, with
a socket to support it in position, and the rib may be there forked or broadened out
for its better support. I also provide it with arms, m, or a series of arms fitted or let
into the body of the bodice or corset, one arm, or one series, on each side, and
radiating round the figure, to support the bust in front. The flexible rib is made of
the same contour as the back of the individual, and, from its elastic nature, the person
will be enabled to bend with perfect ease, whilst, when the wearer is in an upright
position, it will be conducive to the maintenance of the natural, unrestrained, erect
and graceful position of the figure. Instead of fitting drawers to the bodice, the
garment may, if desired, be made all in one piece, as a combination garment, so long
as the strain of the lacing is borne by the hip bones and lower part of the spinal
column only this form of the garment is more especially recommended where
either the flexible rib or radiating arms or both are not desired or required.
The bodice or corset would, for the purpose of leaving the waist entirely free, he
preferably provided with flat hooks, catches, runners or their equivalent, round the
level of the hips, to which the petticoat or equivalent may be hung or attached,
instead of, as at present, being fixed or tied round the waist which causes compression
of that region of the body. For the purpose of keeping the stockings in position I
provide the drawers or knickers with tapes or straps or their equivalent, let into, or
fitted into the garment, one at the inner and one at the outer side of each leg; at the
lower end of these tapes, or equivalent, hooks catches or their equivalent are provided
to catch and hold the stockings in position. Or a runner, tape, or equivalent, made
of elastic or other material, is provided round about the lower end of each leg of the
drawers or knickers, for suspending the stockings thereto.
In fig. 4 a pair of trousers, g, is shown, the trousers, g, are made with openings or
slits, i, one on each side, preferably provided with under pieces, o, indicated in dotted
lines, which are capable of being drawn together by laces, j, or their equivalent, for
the purpose of making the trousers fit to the person; or these under pieces may be
dispensed with, and the trouser openings, themselves, may be drawn together by
lacing or equivalent, in the same manner. If desired a hook, k, and an eye, n, or
other suitable clasping device may be provided at each opening, i, to hold the sides of
the openings together at the top; or preferably a series of eyes at greater or less
distances apart may be used in order to enable the person to fit the garment more or
less tightly, at will. The band of the trousers is preferably kept, in front, beneath
the level of the umbilicus. With this arrangement, when the pair of trousers is fitted
in position, by the drawing together of the openings, i, the whole strain is borne by
the hip bones and lower part of the spinal column, whilst the waist is left free and

page_text: unconstrained. The openings, i, may, if desired, be more or less to the front or back
instead of at the sides, or a single opening may be made at the back, so long as the
strain is entirely borne by the hip bones and lower part of the spinal column. The
trousers are prevented from sliding up out of their true position, on the person, by
the fork. With trousers made and fitted in this manner, the wearer is freed entirely
from the undesirable constraint of braces or suspenders, which tend to drag the
shoulders forward and to contract the chest, and the body is thus left to its true
healthful and erect position, with the shoulders square back and the chest freely
expanded.
In the case of a kilt made in accordance with my invention, as shown at fig. 5, a
short pair of drawers is fitted thereto, on the inside, by catches, sewing, or equivalent
means. The drawers are provided with slits or openings, i, at the sides, or they may
be more or less to the front or back instead of at the sides, or a single opening may
be made at the back of the drawers in the same manner as the trousers hereinbefore
described and the fork acts in like manner, preventing the kilt rising up out of
position. Openings may, if desired, be left in the side of the kilt for the purpose of
lacing the drawers. The band of the drawers and the fastening band of the kilt
are preferably kept, in front, below the level of the umbilicus. The kilt may have a
hook or catch, k, and an eye, n, or series of eyes, in the same manner as the
trousers.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
clain is
1. A bodice, corset, combination or other like garment, for female wear, having
openings or slits at or near the hips or more or less to the front or back, or a single
opening or slit at the back of the garment, capable of being drawn together by lacing
or equivalent means the garment being held in position by drawers, knickers, or
their equivalent, and being so made that when in position the whole strain of the
lacing will be borne by the hip-bones and lower part of the spinal column, sub-
stantially as herein before described, and shown under one arrangement at figs. 1, 2,
and, 3, of the drawings annexed, and for the purposes and advantages hereinbefore
set forth.
2. In trousers, kilts, drawers and like garments for male wear, the providing of
openings or slits, at or near the hips or more or less to the front or back, or a single
opening or slit at the back of the garment, capable of being drawn together by lacing
or equivalent means, so as to fit to the wearer, substantially as herein before
described and shown, as applied to a pair of trousers and a kilt at figs. 4, and, 5,
of the drawings annexed, and for the purposes and advantages herein before set
forth.
3. In a bodice, corset, combination or other like garment, the fitting in the back
thereof, of a flexible rib of steel, whalebone, or other elastic material, which may be
provided with radiating arms or a series of arms, substantially as and for the purposes
hereinbefore set forth.
4. In a bodice, corset, combination or other like garment, the combination of an
upright flexible rib of steel, whalebone, or other elastic material, fitted in the back of
the garment, with arms or a series of arms on each side radiating round the figure
from said flexible rib, for the purpose of supporting the bust in front, substantially as
hereinbefore described and shown in the drawings annexed.
H. D. FITZPATRICK,
70, Wellington Street, Glasgow,
A gent.