Improvements in or relating to Boot and Shoe Sewing Machines.
Year: 1897

page_text: PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in or relating to Boot and Shoe Sewing Machines.
We, FREDERICK CUTLAN, Engineer, of Wellingborough, in the County of
Northampton, and THE CUTLAN LASTING MACHINERY COMPANY LIMITED, do
horeby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to boot and shoe sewing machinery, its object being the
construction of a simple form of chain-stitch machine operating with a curved
needle to secure the welt to the sole or for other purposes in the manufacture of
boots and shoes.
1
A convenient feature of this invention is that the needle, casting-off device and
a portion of the feed apparatus are all carried upon the needle shaft and all
operated by simple levers and links or the like from cams on the main shaft of
the machine. The cam controlling the needle should preferably be one which
does not impart a continuous oscillatory movement thereto but which, whilst
causing it to penetrate and withdraw from the work as required, enables it to be
kept at rest while the looper passes round it to form the loop and enables it to
have another period of rest during each feeding operation.
In one construction according to this invention a cam shaft journalled, in the
rear portion of the machine and operated by a driving belt or otherwise is pro-
vided with a series of cams which operate by suitable levers a feeding device, a
shaft carrying a curved needle and a tubular looper through which the thread
ia delivered to the needle.
The construction and method of operation of the tubular looper are important
features of this invention; conveniently the tubular looper is provided with a ball
fitting a socket in the framing of the machine in such a manner that the delivery
end of the looper rotates in a closed curve around the hooked end of the needle
in the formation of the loop. This motion is imparted to it by means of a lever
arranged to oscillate in say a horizontal plane about a pivot, the engagement
between the pivot and the lever being such that the latter can have a certain
amount of endwise movement as well as a movement of oscillation. The end of
the lever which is controlled by the cam is arranged with a fork or other means
to prevent it from moving out of its proper plane and is operated by a cam which
is so shaped as not only to impart to it a oscillatory movement about its pivot but
also to move it backwards and forwards endwise, and it is by the combination of
the movement of oscillation with the endwise movement of the lever that the
looper which it controls is caused to move in the closed curve aforesaid. This
lever and the other cam-operated levers hereinafter referred to, can if desired be
provided with springs or other device for keeping them up to their work and also
with friction bowls if desired for lessening the effort required to operate the
machine. Means are provided for heating the looper tube so that the waxed
thread delivered through it is heated immediately before being worked into the
boot and thus has no opportunity to cool as in machines in which the heating
takes place at some distance from the work to which the thread is to be applied.

page_text: A simple and easily regulated feed controlling device forms a part of the present
invention; it may consist of a blade spring bearing upon a rigid arm, the thread
being fed through between the arm and the spring and the latter being held upon
a fixed support by a screw, by tightening or slackening which the pressure
exerted on the thread and thereby determining the tension thereof can be easily
regulated to any desired extent.
An improved feed is an important feature of this invention. Conveniently it
consists of an oscillating arm, the lower end of which effects the feed and travels
in suitable proximity to a stationary foot or rest which enters a channel in the
work and enables it to be guided easily and with certainty. The active end of
this feed lever operates upon or is provided with an automatic friction grip which
will pass easily over the work when the feed lever moves in one direction, but
will grip it and feed it when the lever travels in the opposite direction; for
instance the automatic feed may consist of a detent pivotted upon the device con-
trolled as aforesaid by the feed lever and controlled by a spring. The active face
of this detent may if desired be serrated or roughened:
With the feed lover is combined a welt guide which is arranged to oscillate or
rotate upon a spindle by which the curved needle is carried, the welt guide and
the friction grip with which it is combined rising and falling between the
successive feed movements of the work, being given this rising and falling motion
by an arm controlled by means of a link or other connection from a special cam
on the main shaft of the apparatus, or by other means; the movement of the welt
guide and grip transversely in the machine in company with the work is effected
by linking the rotary sleeve or other device carrying the welt guide to the oscillat-
ing feed lever hereinbefore described in such a manner that the rotary movement
of the welt guide about the needle spindle and the transverse oscillatory move-
ment of the feed lever co-operate to produce the desired result.
The transverse oscillation of the feed lever can be effected by a cam operating
a link and bell crank lever pivoted to the main frame of the machine or by other
means. as may be desired. The device by which the feed is effected and which
preferably moves with the end of the feed lever as aforesaid, may conveniently
be arranged under spring control, such control causing it to maintain the desired
pressure upon the leather passing beneath it but also permitting the gripping
device to yield to suit inequalities in the thickness of the work. With this device
is combined a locking appliance operated conveniently from the main shaft afore-
said and so constructed that after each feed movement and during the perforation
of the work by the needle a dog is caused to lock or put a brake upon the sleeve
or part of the apparatus by which the gripper is controlled so that there may be
no possibility of the work yielding or slipping during its perforation by the
.needle.
In this machine the casting-off device may conveniently be operated by means
of a second sleeve on the needle shaft operated like the oscillating needle froni à
cam on the main shaft of the machine.
Dated this 26th dev of June 1897
Improvements in or relating to Boot and Shoe Sewing Machines.
We, FREDERICK CUTLAN, Engineer, of Wellingborough, in the County of
Northampton, and THE CUTLAN LASTING MACHINERY COMPANY LIMITED, do

page_text: hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to
be performed; to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:
1
This invention relates to boot and shoe sewing machines, its object being the
construction of a simple form of chain-stitch machine operating with a curved
needle to secure the welt to the sole or for other purposes in the manufacture of
boots and shoes.
A convenient feature of this invention is that the needle casting-off device and
a portion of the feed apparatus are all carried upon the needle shaft and all
operated by simple levers and links or the like from cams on the main shaft of
the machine. The can controlling the needle should preferably be one which
does not impart a continuous oscillatory movement thereto but which, whilst
causing it to penetrate and withdraw from the work as required, enables it to be
kept at rest while the looper passes round it to form the loop and enables it to
havo another period of rest during each feeding operation.
In one construction according to this invention a cam shaft journulled in the
rear portion of the machine and operated by a driving belt or otherwise is pro-
vided with a series of cams which operate by suitable levers a feeding device, a
shaft carrying a curved needle and a tubular looper through which the thread
is delivered to the needle.
The construction and method of operation of the tubular looper are important
features of this invention: conveniently the tubular looper is provided with a ball
fitting a socket in the framing of the machine in such a manner that the delivery
end of the looper may rotate in a closed curve around the hooked end of the needle
in the formation of the loop. This motion is imparted to it by means of a lever
arranged to oscillate in, say, a horizontal plane about a pivot, the engagement
between the pivot and the lever being such that the latter can have a certain
amount of endwise movement as well as a movement of oscillation. The end of
the lever which is controlled by the cam is arranged with a fork or other means
to prevent it from moving out of its proper plane and is operated by a cam which
is so shaped as not only to impart to it an oscillatory movement about its pivot but
also to move it backwards and forwards endwise, and it is by the combination of
the movement of oscillation with the end wise movement of the lever that the
looper which it controls is caused to move in the closed curve aforesaid. This
lever and the other cam-operated levers hereinafter referred to, can if desired bo
provided with springs or other device for keeping them up to their work and also
with friction bowls if desired for lessening the effort required to operate the
machine. Means are provided for heating the looper tube so that the waxed
thread delivered through it is heated immediately before being worked into the
boot and thus has no opportunity to cool as in machines in which the heating
takes place at some distance from the work to which the thread is to be applied.
An improved feed is an important feature of this invention. Conveniently it
consists of an oscillating arm, the lower end of which effects the feed and travels
in suitable proximity to a stationary foot or rest which enters a channel in the
work and enables it to be guided easily and with certainty. The active end of
this feed lever operates upon or is provided with an automatic friction grip which
will pass easily over the work when the feed lever moves in one direction, but will
grip it and feed it when the lever travels in the opposite direction: for instance
the automatic feed may consist of a detent pivotted upon the device controlled as
aforesaid by the feed lever and controlled by a spring.
The active face of this
detent may if desired be serrated or roughened.
With the feed lever is combined a welt guide which is arranged to oscillate or
rotate upon a spindle. by which the curved needle is carried; the welt guide and
the friction grip with which it is combined rising and falling between the
successive feed movements of the work, being given this rising and falling motion'
by an arm controlled by means of a link or other connection from a special cam
on the main shaft of the apparatus, or by other means: the movement of the welt

page_text: guide and grip transversely in the machine in company with the work is effected
by linking the rotary sleeve or other device carrying the welt guide to the oscillat-
ing feed lever herein before described in such a manner that the rotary movement
of the welt guide about the needle spindle and the transverse oscillatory movement
of the feed lever co-operate to produce the desired result.
The transverse oscillation of the feed lever can be effected by a cam operating
a. link and bell crank lever pivoted to the main frame of the machine or by other
means as may be desired. The device by which the feed is effected and which
preferably moves with the end of the feed lever as aforesaid, may conveniently be
arranged under spring control, such control causing it to maintain the desired
pressure upon the leather passing beneath it but also permitting the gripping
device to yield to suit inequalities in the thickness of the work. With this device
is combined a locking appliance operated conveniently from the main shaft afore-
said and so constructed that after each feed movement and during the perforation
of the work by the needle a dog is caused to lock or put a brake upon the sleeve
or part of the apparatus by which the gripper is controlled so that there may be
no possibility of the work yielding or slipping during its perforation by the needle.
In this machine the casting-off device may conveniently be operated by means
of a second sleeve on the needle shaft operated, like the oscillating needle, from a
can on the main shaft of the machine.
The accompanying drawings illustrate an improved machine constructed accord-
ing to this invention.
Of these drawings
Figure 1 is an end elevation of the machine, the rear portions being omitted for
clearness.
Figure 2 is a side view of the machine being a section on the line 2-2 of
Figure 1.
Figure 3 is a sectional plan on the line 3-3 of Figure 2.
Figure 4 is a detail view showing the cams removed from tho machine and
placed side by side in their relative angular positions.
Figure 5 is a detail perspective view of the parts carried at the forward end of
the machine the parts being viewed from the under side.
With reference first to Figures 1, 2, and 3, A is a frame or body of cast iron or
other suitable material carrying the cam shaft B at one end and the mechanisin
shaft C at the other: the latter will hereinafter be termed the front and the
former the back end of the machine.
f
The frame is provided with an extension A¹ by which it can be bolted or other-
wise secured to a table or stand. The mechanisms carried by the shaft C comprise
the needle, the cast-off, the feed and the well guide or carrier movements together
with a stationary footrest. These are all operated from the cam-shaft B in the
following manner.
'
With the cam shaft and carried by it rotate five cams, four of which namely 1,
E, G, and H operate the needle, cast-off, welt-carrier-lock, and welt carrier
respectively by means of connecting rods I, J, L, and M respectively.
The fifth cam F, which is in the central position on the shaft is a double one
and operates the looper S as will be hereinafter described.
The cam action of each of the cams E, G and H is produced by its cam groove,
the grooves being lettered E, Gand ¹ respectively. In these grooves run
friction bowls attached to the connecting rods J, L and M, the bowl on the rod J
being lettered j.
The cam end of each of the connecting rods is prevented from moving up and
clown vertically by a forked extension embracing the shaft B as seen at I, J, K',
L' and M in Figure 4. The other end of the connecting rod I is pivotally attached
to a crank on the needle carrier N¹, the rod J being similarly connected' to a crank
on the cast-off carrier 0; the rod L is connected to the crank T' of the welt-
carrier-lock T through the medium of a spring 13 which permits of a yielding
pull being exerted on the look.

page_text: The rod N is pivotally attached to a bell crank lever U pivotted at U which
imparts a transverse motion to the welt carrier Q by means of the roller pins U³
which bear against the ilange Qi of the welt carrier. As will be seen from the
formation of the cam grooves as shown in Fig. 4, each of the thereby oporated
devices receives an intermittent motion: the periods of movement and rest of the
several devices co-operating to produce the desired result in the manner herein-
after to be described.
The looper S receives a motion compounded of a reciprocating transverse move-
ment and an oscillating movement back and forth in the centre line of the machine
frame. This is effected by means of the lever K and connecting rod K. The
former is pivotted at K and engages at one end with the cam grooves 1 from
which the transverse movement is received and imparted to the looper S at the
other end, the looper passing through a perforated extension piece K' which is
adjustably attached to the lever K. The lever K receives its endwise movement
from the connecting rod K2 which is pivotally connected to it at K5 and is operated
by the groove 1: attached to or formed with the rod Ka are two projections Ke
between which the lever K passes and which serve to guide the lever K. The
lever K is provided with a sfot K³ to enable it to partake simultaneously of the
required oscillatory movement about the pivot K' and of the endwise movement
imparted to it by the rod K³.
With reference to the details of the mechanisms at the front end of the machine,
these will be most clearly understood by reference particularly to Figure 5 which
is a perspective view of them as seen from beneath. The needle carrier N¹ is
provided with a screw clamp Na in which the needle N is placed: the latter passes
through the cast-off O and both are shown in Figure 5 in their extreme backward
position. The welt carrier Q and carrier loop Q are shown in their extreme
right-hand position as viewed from beneath, that is to say in their nearest position
to the hook V. The hook V is intended to assist in carrying and guiding the welt
which passes from it direct to the welt carrier proper Q. The loop Q serves, in
combination with the body Q of the carrier & guide, to guide and carry the welt
up to the point of its attachment to the sole. The foot rest against which the work
is pressed upwards by the operator is shown at R and is rigidly attached to the
shaft C which is itself fixed to the machine so that it cannot rotate. The needle
carrier N¹, cast-off O', and welt carrier and guide Q are all independently rotat-
able about the shaft C, the welt carrier and guide Q is attached to, or may be
formed with, a flange Q having an extension Q³ the upper edge of which is part
of a circle having a point in the axis of C as centre. To the flange is secured a
sleeve Q5 which is rotatable about the shaft C. A spring Q tends to keep the
guide Qpressed downward, its. movement in that direction being limited in any
desired manner, conveniently by the engagement of the curved arm Q3 with a stop
on the frame of the machine. Mounted rotatably upon the sleeve Q5 is the feed
grip carrier P to which the feed grip is pivotally connected at P. The grip_P
is preferably provided as shown with an extension P2 upon which the spring Ра
presses keeping the grip pressed down upon the work. The grip carrier
carried to and fro by the sleeve Q5 but the latter is free to rotate within the
former.
is
Upon the shaft T (Figs. 1 and 2) is mounted a brake or lock T which periodi-
cally presses upon and releases the arm Q3 thus periodically locking the welt
guide Q against movement and periodically allowing it travel and adjustment.
The looper is shown at Shaving a ball and socket joint S¹ and operated at its
lower end by a plate K'. In the position shown in Figure 5 the parts are disposed
and ready to commence a cycle of operations first by feeding the work forward by
means of the grip P and welt carrier Q at the completion of which operation the
latter becomes locked by the lock T pressing upon and clamping the curved
arm Q
The next operation is the united forward movement of the needle and
cast-off, the former exceeding the limit of the latter and piercing the material

page_text: which is firmly retained between the locked welt-carrier or guide Q and foot-
rest R. When the needle has reached its extreme position the looper describes
the hereinbefore mentioned closed curve causing the waxed thread to encirole the
needle N.and to become engaged by its hook, the needle meanwhile remaining
stationary. At this point the lock T is removed from the welt carrier arm Q³.
The next operation caused by the continued rotation of the shaft B is the with-
drawal of the needle from the work and its retreat within the orifice of the
cast-off O and the needle and the cast-off are then withdrawn to their extreme
backward position. At the same time and before the needle has been completely
withdrawn from the material the welt carrier begins to move toward the left band
(as viewed from the front position) carrying with it the feed grip P and remaining
there until the needle and cast-off have reached their extreme backward position.
The welt carrier and feed grip are now in a position to produce a further forward
feed of the materials and the parts are again respectively in the position seen in
Figure 5.
It will be seen that the feed grip P automatically accommodates itself to in-
equalities in the work being carried by a pivotal support P upon its carrier P¹,
this carrier receiving its transverse motion from the sleeve Q5 upon the welt
carrier flunge Q yet allowing the welt carrier to oscillate about the axis C und
thus adjust itself to materials of different or of varying thickness. The grip P
thus moves to the left as seen from the front without carrying with it the material
over the surface of which it passes, but on its return movement to the right its
serrated edge enters and carries forward the said material; the spring P³ is pre-
ferably provided to give certainty to this action. The foot rest R is slotted at R³
in order to allow the passage of the feed' grip P and an additional projection R¹
is preferably attached to the reat R to ensure a more uniform handling of the
material to be stitched.
The foot rest R is intended to be inserted in a groove cut in the surface and
near one edge of the material to be stitched. The groove is cut in a slanting
direction so that when the tip of the foot-rest is inserted therein, a flap of the
material lies on the upper front surface of the rest while the bulk of the material
is held against the under surface of the rests R and R'.
When the welt-guide moves from the position shown in Figure 5 to its position
over the foot-rest, R and becomes locked against oscillation, it serves to take the
thrust of the needle. The path of the needle is extremely close to the edge of the
welt-guide which therefore serves to enable the needle to pierce both sole and
welt. The oscillation of the welt-guide about the axis C allows it to adjust itself
(before it becomes locked) to any variation in thickness of the welt or of the
flap of material on the upper front surface of the foot-rest R, both this flap and the
welt being more or less 'gripped between the under surface of the welt-guide and
the foot-rest.
The employment of a stationary foot rest in close proximity to which the feed grip
reciprocates enables the operator to maintain a firm and uniform upward pressure
on the material without interfering with the action of the feed mechanism. The
mounting of the welt carrier and guide upon a reciprocating sleeve permits of its
simultaneous reciprocation and oscillation; the latter motion providing for auto-
matic adjustment to inequalities in the material; at the same time the connec-
tion with it of the feed grip carrier P is such as to allow of the required oscillation
of the welt carrier about the axis C without imparting any such motion to the feed
grip carrier which can only partake of transverse movement along the shaft owing
to the engagement of the grip P with the foot rest R.
An important advantage of the connection between the feed grip and the welt
carrier is the simultaneous feed of both the sole and the welt, though this invention
is not limited to such connection, it being believed that a transversely reciprocat-
ing welt carrier, is novel whether connected with the feed grip or not.
An important advantage resulting from the construction of mechanism accord-
ing to this invention is the simplicity of the mechanism connecting the cams with

page_text: the devices at the front of the machine, the connecting rods herein before described
requiring no pivots (with the exception of the lever K) about which to oscillate
and there being no toothed gearing as is common to operate the needle and the
cast off, its place being taken by the cranks upon which the connecting rods act
directly. The arrangement of the several parts upon the same shaft Cat the
front end of the machine is further advantageous in regard' of compactness and
simplicity.
Hitherto the waxed thread has been heated at some distance from the material
to be sewn, or the whole machine has been heated, an operation necessarily tedious
and occasioning delay in starting the machine to work.
By the present construction in which a looper is employed one end of which is
attached to the machine by a ball and socket as at S' or other universal joint, heat
may be applied to the looper itself thus causing the thread to be heated
immediately before entering the material and thus also by obviating the necessity
of heating the whole machine, allowing it to be brought into operation at a few
moments' notice.
A flat looper may be employed if desired, but it is preferred to employ a
tubular looper as shown as this permits the thread to be more readily and safely
heated: A heating device intended for gas is shown at W, connection to a gas
supply pipe being provided for at W.
A hinged lid A2 and a door A³ are provided to facilitate access to the rear and
front parts of the mechanism respectively, and the usual spool carrier Z, thread
guide and tension device X are provided.
The machine may be driven by a crank or by a grooved wheel such as that
shown at D¹.
The hook V, intended to assist in guiding the welt to the welt carrier, is pre-
ferably connected pivotally to the frame so that it can be turned out of the way if
desired the hook may if desired be dispensed with.
A spring U is preferably provided to allow of a yielding pull being given to the
lever the movement of which will then accommodate itself to various lengths
of stitch, any suitable means being, if required, added to limit the travel of the
welt carrier or feed grip.
Many of the details of the described construction may obviously be varied with-
out departing from the spirit of this invention.
Other kinds of cam than those shown may for example be employed, or other
locking devices for the welt carrier than that shown. Or the pivot K4 may be
carried by a slide and be carried forth and back by the lever K.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what
we claim is:-
1. In a sewing machine the combination with the cam driving mechanism at
one end, and the motion-receiving mechanism such as N¹ or 0 at the other end
of a connecting rod such as I or J operating substantially as described.
2. In a sewing machine the combination with a cam and its shaft of a con-
necting rod having a roller engaging with the cam and a fork embracing the shaft
substantially as and for the purpose described.
3. In a sewing machine the combination of a reciprocating welt carrier, a
reciprocating feed, a fixed footrest, an oscillating needle and carrier and an oscillat-
ing cast-off and carrier, the whole disposed side by side upon the same supporting
rod or shaft.
4. In a sewing machine a looper one end of which is pivotally attached to the
machine the other end periodically describing a closed curve.
5. In a sewing machine the combination with a looper of a universal joint for
the purpose described.
6. In a sewing machine the combination with a pivotted loopor such as S of a

page_text: lever having, oscillatory movement about a pivot and endwise movement for the
purpose described.
7. In a sewing machine a tubular looper such as S substantially as and for the
purpose described.
8. In a sewing machine the employment of a looper the stem of which is tubular
for the purpose of enabling heat to be applied to the thread passing through it.
9. In a sewing machine the combination with the looper of a heating device
operating thereon.
10. In a sewing machine the combination with a stationary footrest such as R
of a reciprocating self-adjusting feed-grip such as P P¹.
11. In a sewing machine the combination with a slotted stationary footrest of
a feed-grip reciprocating in the slot.
12. In a sewing machine a self-adjusting reciprocating feed-grip such as P P1.
13. The reciprocating feed-grip, substantially as described and illustrated in
the accompanying drawings.
14. In a sewing machine a reciprocating welt guide or carrier.
15. In a sewing machine the combination with a reciprocating welt guide or
carrier of a simultaneously reciprocating feed-grip.
16: In a sewing machine the combination with an adjustable welt carrier of a
feed-grip, the whole constructed and operating substantially as described and
illustrated in the accompanying drawings..
17: In a sewing machine the combination with a self-adjusting welt carrier such
as Q of a lock to secure it in its adjusted position for the purpose described!
18. The combination and arrangement of parts constituting the complete work-
ing mechanism of a sewing machine substantially as described or illustrated in the
accompanying drawings.