IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY FOR EMBROIDERING ON LACE AND OTHER FABRICS."
Year: 1860

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Edward Whitehall, of the Town and County of the
Town of Nottingham, Machinist, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN
MACHINERY FOR EMBROIDERING ON LACE AND OTHER FABRICS."
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Edward Whitehall at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
20th December 1860.
I, EDWARD WHITEHALL, of the Town and County of the Town of Nottingham,
Machinist, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVE.
MENTS IN MACHINERY FOR EMBROIDERING ON LACE AND OTHER FABRICS," to be as
follows:-
My Invention consists of a number of slightly curved or straight needles,
each needle having two eyes; each of these needles is fixed at one end of a
small rod or shaft, at the other end of which is a mitre wheel, the rods are
placed in bearings at suitable distances apart on what I term the needle
carrier. The fabric is moved vertically or horizontally according to the nature
of the design. When the needle carrier advances it causes the needles which
are supplied with threads to enter the fabric, and on receding it causes each
thread to form a loop, each loop is then caught by one side of a double
instrument in the form of a T, which catches the loops right or left as required,
Price Sd 1

page_text: the stem of which is fitted with a spring slide for holding the loops; the fabric
is moved the length of a stitch. the instruments advance a little towards the
fabric with the loops. which cause them to expand by their being lightly held
to the top of the instruments. they then move in the required direction and
place the loops over the spots where the points of the needles have next to
pass through. while in so doing the loops are drawn from their hold, the
needles entering through the fabric and through the loops draws them round
the stems of the needles, the holding slides are drawn back for the instruments
in catch the newly-formed loops. These movements are repeated, and when.
the pattern is complete the ends of the threads are secured by two bars, which
are placed one above, the other below, the needles; one of these bars is fitted
with springs, and they are caused to advance towards each other and hold the
ends of the threads, the threads are then cut between the bars and the fabric,
the threads being held until two complete stitches are made in a fresh part of
the material; the instruments holding the loops on the opposite side draw the
ends which have been cut completely through the fabric, by which means the
-stitches are fastened off, extra pressure is then put on the holding slides while
the remaining ends are cut from the fabric.
My Invention further consists of giving to the needles a revolving move-
ment as they are entering or piercing the fabric; in crossing their own
embroidery where the places to be pierced have become thicker they work
their own way through without injury to the material worked upon, and
in embroidering on lace when the points of the needles come in contact with
the lace by the needles entering with this movement, it will prevent the
lace pausing or dwelling on the points of the needles. whereby they are
allowed to pass through without breaking any of the threads. The needles
also which are independent of this movement turn halfway round whenever
the fabric changes its course from an upward to a downward motion, or vice
versa, which avoids the half twist of the needle threads, as would be occasioned
were the needles to be kept in one position. I also propose to apply a shuttle
to a similar description of needle, the shuttle thread of which is formed into a
loop previously to the shuttle entering through the needle and its thread, or
through its own loop.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Edward Whitehall in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
20th June 1861.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, EDWARD
WHITEHALL, of the Town and County of the Town of Nottingham. Machinisi,
send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twentieth day of December, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight. hundred and sixiy, in the twenty-fourth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself. Her heirs and successors, give and grant unio me, the
said Edward Whitehall, Her special licence that 1, the said Edward White-
hall, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I. the
said Edward Whitehall, my executors, administrators, and assigns. should
at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times
thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make,
use, exercise, and vend. within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and
Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVE
MENTS IN MACHINERY FOR EMBROIDERING ON LACE AND OTHER FABRICS," upon the
condition (amongst others) that 1. the said Edward Whitehall, my executors
or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of
their hand and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature
of the said Invention. and in what manner the same was to be performed.
and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six
calendar months nexi and immediately after the date of the said Letters
Patent.
NOW KNOW YE. that I. the said Edward Whitehall, do hereby declare
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement thereof. reference being had to the accompanying Drawings, and
to the letters and figures marked thereon. that is in say :-
My Invention consists of machinery in which are employed a number of
slightly curved or straight needles, each needle having two eyes: each of these
needles is fixed at one end of a small rod or shaft, at the other end of which
is a mitre wheel, the rods are placed in bearings at suitable distances apart on
what I term the needle carrier. The fabric is moved vertically or horizonially
according to the nature of the design; when the needle carrier advances it
causes the needles, which are supplied with thread, to enter the fabric. and
when the needle carrier recedes it causes each thread to form a loop. each loop

page_text: is then caught by one side of a double instrument in the form of a T, which
catches the loop right or left as required, the stem of this instrument being
fitted with a spring slide for holding the loops; the fabric is moved the length
of a stitch, the instruments advance a little towards the fabric with the loops.
and thereby cause them to expand, the loops being lightly held to the top of
the instruments, the instruments then move in the required direction, and
place the loops over the spots where the points of the needles have next to
pass through, while in so doing the loops are drawn from their hold, the
needles entering through the fabric and through the loops draw the loops
round the stems of the needles, the holding slides are drawn back for the
instruments to catch the newly formed loops. These movements are repeated
and when the pattern is complete the ends of the threads are secured by two
bars which are placed one above, the other below, the needles: one of these
bars is fitted with springs, and they are caused to advance towards each other
and hold the ends of the threads; the threads are then cut between the
bars and the fabric, the threads being held until two complete stitches are
made in a fresh part of the material; the instruments holding the loops on
the opposite side draw the ends which have been cut completely through
the fabric, by which means the stitches are fastened off. extra pressure is
then put on the holding slides while the remaining ends are cut from the
fabric.
My Invention further consists of giving to the needles a revolving move-
ment as they are entering or piercing the fabric in crossing their own
embroidery where the places to be pierced have become thicker the needles
work their own way through without injury to the material worked upon, and
in embroidering on lace when the points of the needles come in contact with
the lace, by the needles entering with this movement, the lace will be pre-
vented from pausing or dwelling on the points of the needles, which will
thereby be allowed to pass through without breaking any of the threads. The
needles also which are independent of this movement turn halfway round
whenever the fabric changes its course from an upward to a downward motion
or vice versa, and thereby prevent the half twist of the needle threads which
would be occasioned were the needles to be kept in one position. I also
propose to apply a shuttle to a similar description of needle, the shuttle thread
of which is formed into a loop previously to the shuttle entering through the
needle and its thread, or through its own loop.
I now proceed with reference to the accompanying Drawings more par-
ticularly to exemplify my said Invention, and the manner in which the same
may be carried into effect.

page_text: The object of the first part of my Invention is the production of loopwork
ornaments on lace and other fabrics. Figure 1 is a front view of the machine,
Figure 2 is the left hand end view shewing the front of the jacquard, and
Figure 3 is the right hand end view of the machine without the jacquard.
These three views are drawn one quarter the full size of my present machine,
the parts corresponding with each other on the several Sheets being lettered
alike the following description will apply to each.
A, A, are the end castings of the machine connected by the tie bars A'. A²;
and A. A. Figure 2. is another shaft supported in bearings on the brackets
A and A. on the right hand end view: Figure 3 is another shaft A. sup-
ported in bearings on the brackets A and A. on one end of which are the
driving pullies. B. B. is another shaft which is carried in bearings at the
back of the machine, and is connected to the last-named shafts by the bevil
wheels shewn in the end views of the machine. B is a sliding bar which
carries the uprights B and B that support the cylinders, which sliding bars
rest on plates kept in position by the trucks shewn on each of the end views:
B and B are two rods which slide in bearings, the rods being screwed to the
bars to keep them in an upright position: B is the main or controlling
cylinder which is acted upon as will be herein-after described; BS is a cylinder
on which the material to be embroidered is wound. which is kept close to the
controlling cylinder by means of weights or springs. The fabric is passed
from B. under the controlling cylinder on to B. which is a cylinder for
receiving the material as fast as it is embroidered upon by means of weights or
other suitable contrivance; B" is a cylinder for keeping the fabric in a
straight line regardless of the increasing diameter of B". The cylinder may
be arranged and connected by an endless band or chain. The vertical
movement of the fabric is effected as follows: On the left hand end of the
axle of the controlling cylinder is the fluted roller C. which gears into the
pinion C, to which pinion is secured a small bevil wheel which revolves on
the axle C; C, is another bevil wheel which gears into the one last named,
and is secured to the end of the shaft C, supported in bearings attached to
the bracket A, and to the end casting on this shaft are fixed iwo pattern
wheels C and C, which are moved by drivers attached in the levers C7
and D, by means of the cams C and C. and the three (or any required
number of droppers with which each pair of levers is supplied, the droppers
being left in the box by the jacquard according to the number of teeth to be
moved, or they are all drawn out if the pattern requires the wheel to be moved
in a contrary direction by the other driver. Each of the levers C and D has
attached to it both a long and a short driver of which Figure 4. in Sheet 3, is

page_text: a top view.
The lever CF carries the two drivers D and D'. the long driver
when it is drawn into action by the string D2, attached to the jacquard acts on
the segment D: D' is the top segment. both of which segments are cut to
correspond with the teeth in the pattern wheels and are fixed on the shaft shewn
in the left hand end of the front view, which is carried in bearings fixed to the
back main bracket and the end casting. On the right-hand end of the front
view are two other segments CS and C. the use of which will be herein-afier
described. D is the front short driver for acting on the pattern wheel C.
It should be understood that every revolution of the main shaft causes the
lever D (which is attached by a joint to the lever D) to move up in the face
of the lever D", by the cam C, that is when the three droppers are drawn up
by the jacquard and the pattern wheel is not required to move in that direc-
tion; but when one tooth is required to be moved, Number 2 and Number 3
droppers are drawn up, and the remaining one left in the box. It will be seen
that this dropper is larger than the other droppers, it having to make up for
the space allowed for the wheel in its return motion at the same time moving
exactly one tooth. Figure 5. Sheet 3, is a view of a similar pair of levers shewing
the joint lever moved up to its extremity, and the droppers drawn into the box..
Figure 5 being a top view of the box. Figure 6 is a top view of the box,
and the droppers D are two springs attached to the rod D7, one for keeping
the joint lever up to the cam. the other for keeping the driver off the wheel
when it has been released by the cam. The cam C, and the levers C'.
are arranged in the same manner as the last described with the exception
that the drivers act on the top of the wheel ( and on the segment D', in
order to move them in the opposite direction, the long driver Ds being
lifted off the segment by the jacquard when not required to act. I may here
state that the droppers may also be arranged on each side of the main
shaft, or the levers may be set separately from each other or in such
wise as to communicate in a straight line.
It will be seen by the movements described. that the fabric may be moved
up or down the distance required, alternately or otherwise. The horizontal
movement of the fabric is effected by means of the screw D", which is
secured in the bearings or brackets E and E. the brackets are screwed to
the slide bar B2; E is a bevil wheel, the inside of the boss of which is cut
to fit the screw, or the boss may be in two parts, one part set a little in
advance of the other, in order to avoid any backlash: E is a bearing or
stay for keeping the wheel in its position, at the same time allowing it to
revolve, which moves the fabric right or left, also the fluted roller C, which
slides in the teeth of the pinion C, and is likewise free to revolve; E' is a

page_text: shaft supported in bearings. on the end of which is screwed the small bevil
wheel E which gears into the wheel E. On this shaft are secured two
pattern wheels E and E F and F are the two cams for acting on the levers
and droppers which give motion to the pattern wheels for moving the fabric
horizontally the long drivers and short drivers are each acted upon in the same
manner as in the description of the left-hand end of the machine.
Figure 7 is
a side view of the cam for raising or lowering the wires of the jacquard:
Figure 8 is a side view of a cam for working the jacquard cylinder. F and F
are two brackets for supporting the needle carrier F, which slides backwards
and forwards on the rods shewn in the front view, one of which is shewn in
the left-hand end view, and is moved by the excentrics FS and F secured on
the back main shaft, which excentrics give motion to the levers G and G', and
their connections G and G; G is a light shaft which extends the length of
the needle carrier, and moves with it, and is fitted with small bevil wheels,
cach one taking into a similar wheel on the end of each needle shaft, which
when motion is given to this shaft causes the needle to revolve, or partially
revolve, according to the manner in which it or the needle shafts are acted
upon. On the shaft G. Figure 3. is a slotted lever G G is a bracket which
carries a toothed pinion on the same axle as the pinion is a crank or lever,
which, when motion is given to the toothed lever G by a cam on the main
shaft, the toothed lever causes the pinion to revolve, which gives a sharp
oscillating or partially revolving movement to the needles as they are entering
the fabric; immediately the points of the needles touch the fabric the described
movement is given to them; when the needles enter the fabric in a fixed
position, more especially when the pattern requires the needles to pass through
or cross their own embroidery, as is shewn in Figure 9. they will in many
instances cause some of the threads to project from the fabric. it will be seen
by giving the needle this movement, the neelle points being a little flattened,
or of any suitable shape for the object in view, a place is selected and prepared
for the bulk of each needle to pass through: the places for the needles to enter
may also be prepared by separate instruments.
Figure 13 is a view of an instrument for the production of openwork, as
shewn in Figure 9, or it may be made of any suitable shape, according to the
form of opening required, and fixed on the machine, or on a separate arrange-
ment. G (Figure 3) is a lever worked from the back shaft by the cam G
(Sheet 3) which raises up the plate H from off the needle shafts, as shewn in
Figure 10 (Sheet 3) in order that the needles may rise or fall according to
the curve in the needles as they are entering and receding from the fabric;
H' is one of the T instruments shewn screwed to the square bar H in the

page_text: right-hand end view. Figure 1 is a view of the same drawn half the
full size, shewing the socket or tube and loop holders. I may here state
that these loop holders, or their equivalents, may be fixed separately from
the instruments and made in various forms. In the front view are shewn
the bar broken away and the tops of the angle bits (of which eight are
shewn) to which the rods of the instruments on which these sockets slide
are secured (any required number may be worked) and the machines may
be constructed of any suitable width or size. The bar H is connected
by joints to the top of the small levers H, which levers are secured to the
shaft H', the shaft moving right or left by the action of the jacquard to
enable the instruments to catch and deliver the loops; its different motions
may be described as follows:-H are two drivers (shewn on the left-hand end
of the front view); these drivers on every revolution of the shaft A', are caused
to rise and fall by the lever H" worked by cam H (Sheet 3) which drivers act
on the segment If secured to the shaft H, which is held by the brackets J, J,
when either of the drivers are drawn in by the jacquard, the shaft H moves
either-right or left by the racks J, (one of which is secured to the shaft H4)
according to which side of the instruments the pattern requires the loops to he
caught; the drivers when drawn in by the jacquard are kept off the segments
by pins until the cam raises them sufficiently to give the required motion, or
each segment may be cut with one tooth or catch only. At the back of the
last named drivers are two other drivers moved by the lever J, which is similar
in character to the last, and is shewn in the left-hand end view worked by the
cam J, which acts on the segment J, and lays the loops right or left over the
points of the needles, so that the points may pass through and draw the loops
up round their stems; J is a lever shewn in the left-hand end of the front
view, and is also shewn in Figure 2, which is secured to the shaft ; to this
lever are attached two pins, which are acted upon by clawkers J, connected to
the lever J worked by cam J, which causes the clawkers to rise and fall on
each revolution of the shaft A'; when the jacquard draws one of the clawkers
in it catches one of the pins and moves the shaft H' either to the right or left,
and changes the position of the instruments, that is to say. supposing the
left-hand side of the instrument marked a, in Figure 11, Sheet 3, has to
deliver the loop, and the pattern requires the right-hand side to catch the loop
which lies across the bend of the needle, the instruments change their position
according to the pattern or design required. I may here state that previous
to the instruments changing their position, a rising motion is given them by
the cam J fixed on the back main shaft and acting on the levers K, K', and
the connection K, which raises the instruments above the needles, and also

page_text: while the needles recede.
This cam also is made slightly excentric, so as to
keep the instruments on the proper level as they advance and recede; K10 is a
lever which works on an axle secured to the bracket A; at one end of the
lever are two flat springs, which when motion is given to the lever by a cam
on the shaft A', are thereby caused to act upon the drivers that deliver the
loops; immediately when either of these drivers is called upon to act, and has
moved the segment J sufficiently, and the driver is just being released by the
cam it is held off the segment by the spring, in order to keep clear of the
segment, when at any time the pattern requires the clawkers to act and change
the position of the instruments. The holding slides are held off the instru-
ments while the loops are caught by the plates which are secured to the square
bar K. shewn in the two end views: K' is a front view of one of the plates
shewn in Figure 1, which plates act upon the flanges of the sockets that con-
tain the holding slides. and when these plates have released the sockets or
tubes, the holders press lightly on the loops by the action of the springs.
K, Figure 14, Sheet 3. is a long lever secured to the square bar K
carried to the main shaft, and worked by the cam K" (Sheet 3). which holds
the slides back while the loops are caught. The loops may also be caught
and acted upon by single-sided instruments, as shewa at Figure 12, having a
revolving motion, the instruments revolving according to the position in which
the loops are to be caught and delivered, or by the instruments working in
combination with a revolving needle or needles; K is a lever which is con-
nected to the main shaft. and is moved by cam K (Sheet 3), for giving to the
instruments an advancing and receding motion; K" is a point bar, the front
of which is shewn in Sheet 3, Figure 15, and which bar is also shewn in the
two end views of the machine: this bar is connected by levers or brackets to
the axle shaft L; L', Figure 3, is a lever which is carried from the axle shaft
to the back main shaft, and being moved by cam L; causes the points
to rise and fall; L is a cam which acts on the side of the said lever, in order
to move the points or point bar horizontally, which points may also be acted
upon by the jacquard. The use of the point bar is always to insure the laying
of the threads across the bend of the needles, so that when the needles are
withdrawn from the fabric the points move under each thread, as shewn in
Sheet 3, and as the needles are advancing the points raises up each thread so
that the needles pass under them. thereby causing the threads to lay evenly
across the bend of the needles, irrespectively of the direction in which the
threads are moving that are attached to the fabric. These points also facilitate
to some extent the drawing up of the stitches when lace is being embroidered
upon, thus preventing the greater portion of each loop from being drawn over

page_text: the sharp edges of the net; immediately the loops are caught the points with-
draw and assume their starting position; the highest rise in the cam L raises
up the points at the time when the back blades L' act, so as to cut the threads
when called upon, the point bar being raised up the required height at every
revolution of the cam, so that at all times it shall be clear of the blades when
they are required to cut the threads, and thus the point bar and blades may
not come in contact with each other; L is a spring which the thread passes
under previous to its entering through the eye of the needle; in order that
tension may be imparted to the thread, the needles may be allowed to draw
the threads off the bobbins without the springs, which threads, before the
needles have reached the extremity of their backward motion, are held as
shewn in L, Figure 16, Sheet 3, whereby the stitches are tightened; L and
L are views of the apparatus for holding the threads when the pattern is com-
pleted; the bottom brackets 17, of which there are three, are fixed on the
square bar L, from these brackets are projections, and at the top of each
projection is a joint to which are connected the top brackets L, shewn in
front view, Figure 17, and in end view, Figure 18; the bottom brackets rest
on excentrics or cams M, shewn in the end and front views, the excentrics are
secured on the shaft M', and when motion is given to this shaft by the seg-
ments shewn on the left-hand end of Figure 1 (D and D) acting on the small
bevil wheels M2, the excentrics or cams cause the apparatus to rise and fall.
It is also moved to the right and left by segments CS and C shewn on the
right-hand end of the front view. On the opposite end of the short shaft on
which the segments are secured is a toothed pinion m which gears into a rack
cut in the square bar on which the apparatus is secured; when the segments
are acted upon by the long drivers, as before described, they cause the appa-
ratus to move right and left, the square shaft being turned of sufficient width
to allow it to slide in its bearings; it will be seen by the movements described
that the apparatus is capable of being moved in every required direction, each
movement being independent of the other. Figures 19 are views of each
part for holding the threads drawn full size, one of which is cut like a file in
order to produce impressions in the thread for the better holding of the same;
the ledge of the lower one is a little inclined, so that the top springs have a
tendency to press against the side of the lower stumps; L' is a front view of
the bottom blades for cutting the threads, M is the top set. Figure 20,
Sheet 3, is a front view of one of the blades or knives drawn half the full size,
shewing its line of motion. It will be seen by this arrangement of blades or
knives that no more are required for cutting the threads of fifty needles than
for cutting the threads of a hundred needles, provided the two outside needles

page_text: are the same distance apart in both cases; MS is a view of the front plates
shewn in the ends and front view, which have a horizontal movement. I will
here suppose the pattern completed, and the needles at their farthest from the
fabric, and the instruments holding the loops at their extremity, the bottom
brackets of the apparatus rise up to the threads by the long drivers D acting
on the segment D' by means of the droppers on the left-hand end of the front
view at the same time the short driver is lifted off by the jacquard to prevent
The
it from acting on the pattern wheel and the fabric from being moved.
top part of the apparatus, which is fitted with springs, is let down on the
bottom stumps (they are then held together by means of springs or by their
own weight), by the links and levers M and M10, the latter of which is secured
to the axle shaft N. which shaft is caused to work stiffly, so as to stop in the
position in which it is pulled by the clawkers N' and N. one of which clawkers
is for lowering the top part of the apparatus, the other for separating the top
from the bottom; the clawkers are acted upon by the jacquard and worked by
the slide rod N. which has both a rising and falling motion from a cam on.
the main shaft; (the lever R in Figure 3 is acted upon in a similar manner.
so as to keep the needle back by lifting the connections G and G³ off their
axles until such time as the needles are again required to enter the fabric.)
The blades L' then act and cut the threads between the fabric, and the appa-
ratus immediately the threads are cut the ends pass completely through the
fabric by the stress of the instruments, which fastens off the stitches; the front.
plates M8 then move horizontally, which brings the threads to the top of the
narrow part of the slot in order that the work may not be drawn too near the
knife; additional pressure is then put on the holding slides by means of the
cam N (Figure 14, Sheet 3,) that works in front of the truck N. which cam,
in coming into action when the truck N is brought under it by the jacquard.
pushes down the lever and puts on the requisite pressure while the blades M
are cutting off the remaining ends: (these instruments can also be acted upon
by the jacquard in such wise that the last loops of every pattern can be shorter
than the rest in order to effect a saving of thread): the two sets of blades and
the front plates are moved by three cams fitted on the shaft N, which shaft is sup-
ported in bearings by the brackets NS. portions of which are shewn in Figure 3,
N and No are the two levers for acting on the front and back blades.
and O are the bracket and lever for acting on the front plates.
given to the lever 02 by means of a dropper acted upon by a
main shaft, as shewn in Figure 5. Sheet 3. their positions being also shewn
at 03, Figure 3. The fabric, after each row of springs. spots. or other
ornaments, is completed, is moved the required distance horizontally and
0
Motion is
cam on the

page_text: vertically in order to present a fresh part of the material to the needles by
means of levers acting on the pattern wheels. the jacquard acting on the trucks
of such levers to bring them into action. Supposing the fabric is required to
be moved a certain distance to the left hand to commence another sprig, spot,
or other ornament, and supposing that ten teeth of the pattern wheel are
required to move it that distance, eight teeth only would be moved by the
levers, the remaining two teeth would be moved by the droppers, and at the
same time the jacquard, acting on the long driver which is moved by the same
droppers, brings the apparatus which holds the threads on the left hand side
of the needles, which it must be understood is in front of the places where the
needles should enter. But when the first two or three motions of the pattern
require the holding parts of the apparatus to move on the right of each needle,
or in the opposite direction to the fabric previous to the needles entering,
twelve teeth of the pattern wheel would then be moved, two of which would
be moved back again by the action of the droppers for the purpose of enabling
the jacquard to act on the long drivers, which would move the apparatus on
the required side of the needles. It must be understood, that at the com-
mencement of every pattern the apparatus, with the threads, moves for the
first two or three stitches in the same direction as the fabric by the long
drivers acting on the segments, as before described, in order that when the top
and bottom parts of the apparatus are separated the ends may be left as short
as possible (or by causing the needle threads to slacken the short ends may if
required be cut from the fabric.) The apparatus in the formation of the
pattern assumes its starting position by the jacquard acting on the long
drivers at such times as the fabric is moving in the direction in which the
apparatus requires to be moved to take up its position for again holding the
threads when the pattern is complete. Small ornaments may also be produced
by the ordinary hooked needle, or by fixing the hooked needles alternately
with the curved needles, each side of the fabric would have the same
appearance.
Figure 21 is a view of a hook and slider. A* is the hook or, needle; B
is a rod or spindle, to one end of which the hook is secured; Ex is a stud,
which is secured to the spindle B*; D is a socket which slides on the
spindle, and is kept in its position by the slots F* C* is the slider for closing
the hook, and is secured to the socket D, which slider moves in a groove
made in the stem of the hook. At the top of the slider is another groove for
receiving the end of the hook. G (Figure 22) is a bar that moves right
and left, and has secured to it the plate H. the top of which forms two nebs
I and J, which act on the flange of the socket D*. I will suppose the

page_text: hook now to be shut, and at its farthest distance from the fabric and the top
of the slot nearest the flange touching the stud Ex just before the hook
begins to advance to enter the fabric the bar G moves, which brings the
contains the slider. which
neb I in front of the flange of the socket D* that
keeps the slider back. In order to let out the last drawn loop. the slider is
held back until the stud E touches the end of the slot nearest the slider,
when the bar G withdraws, and allows the hook and slider to enter the
fabric together, the slider entering about a quarter of an inch. The hook is
then supplied with a thread, and before it begins to return, the bar G* moves
and places the neb J ai the back of the flange D, which it keeps from
returning until the stud E has reached the top of the slot F. when the hook
and slider return together. drawing the thread in the form of a loop.
Figure 23 is a view of a hook for holding the threads when the pattern is
completed. The thread is then cut between the fabric and the hooks; the
end is then drawn through by the needle, and is caught by suitable apparatus,
and the stitch drawn up tight, when the short end is cut from the fabric.
When a few stitches have been made in the commencement of a sprig or other
ornament, the holding hook, previous to the needle again coming forward.
lays the short ends across the track or path of the needle, so that by the
action of the thread within the feeding needle lays the short end within the
hook, when it is drawn through to the other side of the material along with
the loop.
The next part of my Invention consists of applying a shuttle or its equi-
valent to a curved or straight needle, so that previous to the needle entering
the fabric, the shuttle thread is caught by a hook. the hook turning sufficiently
round to form a loop of the thread which the point of the needle passes
through. The shuttle then enters between the needle and its thread, and
draws the stitch close and firm, or a hooked needle may be substituted for the
shuttle, and produce a chain stitch round the needle thread, or the needle may
be caused to pass through a loop of the lower thread previous to the hook
catching the thread of the needle.
The machinery described in reference to the first and last parts of my
Invention can be so arranged as to be moved by a rotary motion (indepen-
dently of the jacquard) by gearing or by ratchets, communicating motion to
cam or cut wheels, which will give the required movements to the different
parts for beginning and finishing various kinds of sprigs or ornaments that
may be desired.
Having now described the nature of the said Invention, and in what

page_text: manner the same may be performed, I declare that what I claim as my
improvements in machinery for embroidering on lace and other fabrics, is,
First, the use or employment of the T instrument furnished or fitted with
loop holders or their equivalents, whereby the loop caught shall be held
expanded, delivered, and the stitch fastened off, as described.
Secondly, the use or employment of a single-sided instrument furnished or
fitted with a loop-holder for effecting the same purpose as the T instrument.
and having a revolving or partially revolving motion, as described, and working
in combination with a revolving needle, or with a fixed needle governed by the
jacquard or other means; also, I claim the use or employment of two fixed
instruments furnished with loop holders, and acting at opposite sides of the
needle.
Thirdly, the giving to each needle an oscillating or reciprocating rotary
motion as it is entering or piercing the fabric for the purpose described:
also the effecting of the same by means of a separate instrument having a
rectilinear and revolving or reciprocating rotary motion combined.
Fourthly, the construction and arrangement of the blade or knife for
cutting the threads. and its method of action, as shewn and described.
Fifthly, causing the pattern wheels to be acted upon or the fabric to be
moved in different directions by means of droppers in the manner shewn and
described.
Sixthly, the general arrangement and combination of machinery constructed
in the manner berein-before described and exemplified in the accompanying
Drawings.
In witness whereof, I, the said Edward Whitehall, have hereunto set my
hand and seal. this Eighteenth day of June, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-one.
Witness,
GEO. JON. ROBINSON,
Patent Agent,
Nottingham.
EDWARD WHITEHALL. (L.S.)