Year: 1894

page_text: Date of Application, 15th June, 1894
Complete Specification Left, 30th Jan., 1895-Accepted, 2nd Mar., 1895
Fig. 3 shows in elevation now at the DACK
cach needle are fixed the hook arrangements having an alternating circular
movement.
Fig. 4 is a plan showing one of these hook arrangements, the plate f¹ which keeps
the spoolcase in place being removed.
Fig. 5 shows a cam and lever for actuating the cloth holder.
Fig. 6 shows an arrangement of thread bobbin.
A is a carriage mounted in the usual manner on wheels B running on small guide
rails a.
This carriage is set in motion by connecting rods CC connected to pins
in the plates D D¹ mounted at the extremity of the vertical spindles J J. These
spindles have a continuous rotatory movement imparted to them by the shaft E
through the wheels m n. The continuous circular movement which the spindle E
receives is produced by an arrangement composed of an eccentric a¹ the connecting
rod of which can slide in the piece G which can oscillate freely under the action of
the movements of the rod c¹ of the eccentric a'. The end of the rod c' is attached
to the plate F which by this mechanism is actuated with a continuous rotatory
movement. Hare the needle carriers. I l'are two cams mounted respectively on
the spindles JJ' which carry fixed at their upper extremity, the plates D and D'.
These two cams I I¹ actuate the levers K. and K' pivoted respectively at the
points L L', thus moving the cloth holder Y by bearing on the projecting arm Z;
while springs t t bring the cloth holder again forward. M is a connecting rod
actuating the sector N which moves the pinion N¹ in such manner that the latter
only makes an alternating movement of three quarters of a revolution. Pare
bevel wheels which mounted on the spindle of the pinion N¹ engage with the
wheels Q fixed to the spindle of each hook d'. The wheels P and Q being of the
same diameter the hooks receive also an alternating movement of three quarters of
a revolution. R are tension arms which the tension of the thread brings forward
without effort. g is a cam which brings the tension arms back by acting on an
arm i mounted on the tension arm spindle r. S is the tension and feed regulating
spindle. e are small bent pins or supports fixed to the spindle S. It is on these
supports that the tension of the thread is exerted, this tension being produced when
the thread should be supplied. is a spring which actuates the spindle S in such
manner that the small supports e may always return to the position shown on the

page_text: drawing when they have been removed by the tension of the thread becoming too
great and which may be regulated so that these small supports are only raised by
the thread when it has reached that tension which it is desired to obtain. f is a
ratchet mounted on the spindle S and following all the oscillations thereof. This
ratchet engages with a ratchet wheel W fixed on the spindle U on which are
arranged in front of each bobbin the discs V in the groove of which the thread
from each of the bobbins engages. As soon therefore as the desired tension of the
thread is obtained it will-act on the supports e and the spindle S, in spite of its
opposing spring, will be forced to turn slightly, and the ratchet f which is fixed
thereon will receive the same movement and will be disengaged from the wheel W ;.
the discs V can then turn freely and the thread will be supplied in the necessary
quantity. X X is a frame in which are mounted the rollers p p on which is
stretched the material to be embroidered. This frame X X is displaced by the
usual pantograph. Y Y is the material holder which the springs t't keep pressed
upon the material; it is brought backwards by the levers K K which act on the
arms Z Z. d is the hook which is put in motion by means of the wheels P and Q
and makes therefore only three quarters of a revolution. e¹ is the case carrying
the spoolcase g' which here has a slight vertical play to allow the thread to pass
underneath. is the cover which is here composed of a simple plate, the object
of this cover being simply to keep the spoolcase in position.
Being thus constituted our new embroidering machine allows of the execution of
much finer work since, with the adoption of the hook having an alternating circular
movement, the thread is put on the material without being untwisted, and work
can be done more quickly since the thread is fed automatically as it is required.
When the needle pierces the material the thread draws forward the tension arm R
which moves freely, then, when the needle moves back, the tension arm R is
also moved back by the cam 9 which bears on the arm i. The pantograph
when displacing the frame X X produces a tension of the thread; this tension
makes the spindle S oscillate by means of the supports T, the ratchet f is
disengaged from the ratchet wheel W, the discs V can turn freely and the
thread can be supplied in the quantity required by the displacement of the
pantograph.
This mechanism can however be modified in several ways and for this reason we
desire to claim also as our own invention the principle on which the feeding of the
thread is based, no matter what modifications may be made in the method of its
application.
In particular it would be easy to design a mechanism more simple than that
described but with an action nevertheless more delicate, in which each bobbin is
sustained directly by a spring which prevents it from turning as long as the
thread has not sufficient tension to balance, that of the spring but allowing the
feeding of the thread as soon as the tension becomes sufficient as represented in
Fig. 6.
Dated this 14th day of June 1894.
Improvements in Embroidering Machines.
We JEAN BAPTISTE BRAUN, CAMILLE CLERC, and CHARLES LERICHE, all
of 15 Rue des Halles, Paris, in the Republic of France, do hereby declare the
nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed to be 5
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement. :-
Our new embroidering machine is of that class called continuous thread. But it

page_text: has when compared with those hitherto used, two important advantages. 1st. The
feed of the thread is effected automatically, permitting always of the same tension
of stitch no matter what may be the length thereof. 2nd. The manner in which
the stitch is made by a hook moving with an alternating motion the spoolcase.
remaining at rest. There is thus less wear of the thread, less distance to travel
for the needle and consequently greater rapidity and less chance of breaking the
.thread.
This machine is shown on the drawing filed with the Provisional Specification;
Fig. 1 of which is a front view.
Fig. 2 is a transverse section through c d of Fig. 1.
Fig. 3 shows in clevation how at the back of the machine and in front of each
needle are fixed the hook arrangements having an alternating circular movement.
Fig. 4 is a plan showing one of these hook arrangements, the plate f¹ which
keeps the spoolcase in place, being removed.
Fig. 5 shows a cam and lever for actuating the cloth holder.
Fig. 6 shows an arrangement of thread bobbin.
A is a carriage mounted in the usual manner on wheels B running on small
guide rails a. This carriage is set in motion by connecting rods CC connected to
pins in the plates D D¹ mounted at the extremity of the vertical spindles J J.
These spindles have a continuous rotary movement imparted to them by the
shaft E through the wheels mu. The continuous circular movement which the
spindle E receives is produced by an arrangement composed of an eccentric a¹
the connecting rod of which can slide in the piece G which can oscillate freely
under the action of the movements of the rod e of the eccentric a'. The end of
the rod c¹ is attached to the plate F which by this mechanism is actuated with a
continuous rotary movement. H are the needle carriers. II' are two cams.
mounted respectively on the spindles J J' which carry fixed at their upper
extremities, the plates D and D. These two cams I 11 actuate the levers K and K¹
pivoted respectively at the points L L' thus moving the cloth holder Y by
bearing on the projecting arm Z, while springs tt bring the cloth holder again
forward. M is a connecting rod actuating the sector N which moves the pinion N
in such manner that the latter only makes an alternating movement of three
quarters of a revolution Pare bevel wheels which mounted on the spindle of the
pinion N¹ engage with the wheels Q fixed to the spindle of each hook d'. The
wheels P and Q being of the same diameter the hooks receive also an alternating
movement of three quarters of a revolution. R are tension arms which the tension
of the thread brings forward without effort. is a cam which brings the tension
arms back by acting on an arm i mounted on the tension arm spindle r. S is the
tension and feed regulating spindle. e are small bent pins or supports fixed to
the spindle S. It is on these supports that the tension of the thread is exerted,
this tension being produced when the thread should be supplied. is a spring
which actuates the spindle S in such manner that the small supports e may always
return to the position shown on the drawing when they have been removed by the
tension of the thread becoming too great and which may be regulated so that these
small supports are only raised by the thread when it has reached that tension which.
it is desired to obtain. is a ratchet mounted on the spindle S and following all
the oscillations thereof. This ratchet f engages with a ratchet wheel W fixed on
the spindle U on which are arranged in front of each bobbin the discs V in the
groove of which the thread from each of the bobbins engage. As soon therefore
as the desired tension of the thread is obtained it will act on the supports e and
the spindle S in spite of its opposing spring will be forced to turn slightly, and the
ratchet which is fixed thereon. will receive the same movement and will be
disengaged from the wheel W; the discs V can then turn freely and the thread will
be supplied in the necessary quantity. X X is a frame in which are mounted the
rollers pp on which is stretched the material to be embroidered. This frame X-X
is displaced by the usual pantograph. Y Y is the material holder which the
springs keep pressed upon the material, it is brought backwards by the

page_text: levers K K¹ which act on the arms Z Z. dis the stitch hook which is put in
motion by means of the wheels P and Q and makes therefore only three quarters
of a revolution. e' is the case carrying the spoolcase g¹ which here lins a slight
vertical play to allow the thread to pass underneath. is the cover which is
here composed of a simple plate, the object of this cover being simply to keep the
spoolcase in position.
Being thus constituted our new embroidering machine allows of the execution of
much finer work since, with the adoption of the hook having an alternating circular
movement, the thread is put on the material without being untwisted, and work
can be done more quickly since the thread is fed automatically as it is required.
When the needle pierces the material the thread draws forward the tension arm R
which moves freely then, when the needle moves back, the tension arm R is also
moved back by the cam g which bears on the arm i. The pantograph when
displacing the frame X X produces a tension of the thread, this tension makes
the spindle S oscillate by means of the supports T, the ratchet is disengaged from
the ratchet wheel W, the discs V can turn freely and the thread can be supplied
in the quantity required by the displacement of the pantograph.
This mechanism can however be modified in several ways and for this reason we
desire to claim also as our own invention the principle on which the feeding of the
thread is based, no matter what modifications may be made in the method of its
application.
In particular it would be easy to design a mechanism more simple than that
described but with an action nevertheless more delicate, in which each bobbin is
sustained directly by a spring which prevents it from turning as long as the thread
has not sufficient tension to balance that of the spring but allowing the feeding of
the thread as soon as the tension becomes sufficient as represented in Fig. 6.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we
claim is:
1. The automatic feed produced simply by the tension of the thread balancing
the action of one or more springs which prevent directly or indirectly, the bobbins
from giving out thread as long as the tension is insufficient, the latter being the
only force which opposes the energy of the springs and withdraws the bobbins from
their action. This being effected by means of the spindle S on which are mounted
the supports e and the ratchet f which ratchet f engages with the ratchet wheel W
which is mounted on the spindle U on which are arranged the discs V.
2. The application to embroidering machines, of the hook arrangement having
an alternating circular movement independently of the spoolcase this arrangement
comprising the hook and the holder e¹ which holds in position the spoolcase g
and the cover which keeps the spoolcase in place, this spoolcase being absolutely
free and retained simply in the holder.
3. The arrangement and construction of embroidering machines substantially as
described with reference to the drawings.
Dated this 30th day of January 1895.
WHEATLEY & MACKENZIE,
40, Chancery Lane, London, W.C., Agents.