IMPROVED METHODS OF PRODUCING IMITATION GUIPURE D'ART". LACE IN TWIST LACE MACHINES.
Year: 1883

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Aaron Mosley of the Town and County Town of
Nottingham Mechanic for an Invention of IMPROVED METHODS OF PRODUCING
IMITATION GUIPURE D'ART". LACE IN TWIST LACE MACHINES.
"
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Aaron Mosley at the Office
of the Commissioners of Patents on the 3rd March 1883.
AARON MOSLEY of the Town and County Town of Nottingham, Mechanic.
IMPROVED METHODS OF PRODUCING IMITATION "GUIPURE D'ART" LACE IN TWIST
LACE MACHINES
"
My invention will be understood by the following explanation.
-
I use guide bars same as are used when making what is known in the curtain
trade as Combination Lace. Both guide bars move alike and at the same time the
threads in each bar are acted upon by pickers or jacks which are acted upon as
may be required by the Jacquard, according to the pattern put on the pattern
cards.
The cams which move these guide bars are placed at the right hand end of the
machine so that the guide bars fall to the left when the carriages are at the back
and rise to the right when the carriages are at the front of the threads.
I also employ two other guide bars one of these guide bars is placed betwixt
the spool guide bar and Warp bar the other guide bar being placed in front of the
spool bar.
i
These extra guide bars are acted upon by cams or contrivance which is placed at
the left haud end of the machine.
I also employ a stop or bolt which is acted upon either by the Jacquard or cam
This bolt or stop when acted upon, either prevents the spool and warp guide bars
from moving or allows their respective cams to cause them to move as hereinafter
described.
I will now explain my method of working the guide bars and the way the stop
or bolt is used

page_text: DECOND MOTION.
N° 1 and 3 guide bars are again acted upon by their cams and made to rise
b gaits to the right other guide bars 2 and 4 are then acted upon by their cams
and are allowed to fall to the right one gait the carriages then pass through the
threads to the back of the machine and the points take up the work in the usual
way.
It must be understood that the picker bar always falls one gait to the left when
the carriages are in the back and rises one gait when the carriages are in front of
the threads.
The first and second motions as described are-repeated until the proper number
of motions are made. To make a hole. The guide bars are again acted upon as
in the first motion the carriages then pass through the threads to the front of the
machine the points taking up the work as before
The guide bars 1 and 3 are then made to rise as in the second motion and at
the same time the bolt or stop is acted upon by its cam and allowed to fall and
intercept the guide bar levers N° 1 and 3
The guide bar N° 2 is now acted upon by its cam and made to move 4 gaits to
the right No 4 guide bar resting during this motion; the carriages then pass
through the threads to the back the points acting as before. The jacks are not
acted upon in this motion. The guide bars 1 and 3 being still at rest held by the
stop or bolt are prevented from being acted upon by their cams, guide bars 2 and 4
are also allowed to rest during, this motion. the carriages are then passed through
the threads to the front and the points again act as before.
The bolt or stop is now acted upon by its cam and is withdrawn from the guide
bar levers No 1 and 3 Guide bar N° 2 is again acted upon by its cam and made to
move 3 gaits to the right N° 4 guide bar is also acted upon by its cam and made
to move one gait to the right the carriages again pass through the threads and
the points take up the work as usual
The threads in N° 2 guide bar .have now passed over 7 carriages or threads or
two holes of the work causing a straight line across the work
The required number of motions of N° 1 and 2 are again made (to make a hole
as before) and the carriages being now in front the stop or bolt is again acted upon
by its cam and caused to again intercept the guide bar levers N° 1 and 3 as
before.
The guide bar N° 2 is acted upon by its cam and made to move to the left
4 gaits
the guide 4 is allowed by its cam to rest, the carriages then
pass through the threads to the back.
The guide bars 1 2 3 and 4 are allowed to rest during this motion, the carriages
again pass to the front when the guide bar N° 2 is again acted upon by its cam
and made to move 3 gaits to the left N° 4 guide bar is acted upon by its cam and
made to move one gait to the right and at the same time the stop or bolt is
acted upon by its cam and withdrawn from intercepting the guide bar levers
No 1 and 3 the carriages then pass through the threads and the points take
up the work as before. The threads in guide bar N° 2 have now passed over
seven carriages into their first position again, causing a straight line across the
work.

page_text: Having now explained my first method of working the guide bars to produce
straight line across the work I would have it understood that I do not confine
myself entirely to the movements as described as I can effect the same result in
another way which I will now describe.
The guide bars N° 1 and 3 are acted upon by the stop or bolt in the same way
as described in my first method.
The jacks or pickers work double the speed same as when making what is
known in the trade as double action but are only selected by the jacquard on one.
motion.
When the required number of motions N° 1 and 2 are made to make one hole
as in my first method and the carriages are in the front the stop or bolt is acted
the guide
upon by its cam and allowed to intercept the guide bar levers 1 and
bar No 2 is acted upon by its 'cam and made to move as in method N° 1 4 gaits
to the right, N° 4 guide bar is allowed to rest, the carriages then pass to the back:
the points acting as before. The guide bars are allowed to rest during this motion
the carriages again pass to the front the points acting as before.
The guide bar N° 2 is now acted upon by its cam and made to move 3 gaits
more to the right N° 4 guide bar is acted upon and made to move one gait to the
right. The stop or bolt is at the same time acted upon by its cam and withdrawn
from the guide bar levers 1 and 3. The carriages again make their movements to
the back and the points take up the threads as before.
The threads in No 2 guide bar have now passed over seven carriages or threads
and made a straight line across the work as in first method.
The required number of motions 1 and 2 are again made to make a hole. The
carriages are brought to the front when the same movement is given to the stop or
bolt to intercept the levers N° 1 and 3. The guide bar N° 2 is acted upon by the
cam and made to move 4 gaits to the left N° 4 guide bar is allowed to rest the
carriages then pass through the threads to the back of the threads the points again
acting as before. The guide bars in this motion are not acted upon by their cams
but are allowed to rest, the carriages again pass to the front and the points again
act as before. The carriages being now in the front N° 2 guide is again acted
upon and made to move 3 gaits more to the left N° 4 guide bar is made to move
one gait to the right the stop or bolt is now acted upon by its cam and withdrawn
from the levers 1 and 3 the carriages then pass through the threads to the back
and the points take up the work in the usual way. The threads in N° 2 guide bar
have now passed over seven carriages and are in their first position causing another
straight line across the work thus forming a square hole which can either be filled
up by threads to form a diamond shaped figure or a cross, or may have various
grounds inserted as required in accordance to the pattern cards of the jacquard.
With this arrangement of guide bars I am enabled to use each warp thread on
each side. The square hole is for forming fancy grounds which fancy grounds can
be varied by causing the threads in N° 2 guide bar to pass over a greater number
of carriages.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said Aaron Mosley in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 3rd September
1883.
AARON MOSLEY of the town and county town of Nottingham Mechanic
IMPROVED METHODS OF PRODUCING IMITATION "GUIPURE D'ART" LACE IN TWIST
LACE MACHINES
My invention will be understood by the following explanation.
I use guide bars same as are used when making what is known in the curtain
trade as combination lace. Both guide bars move alike and at the same time
the threads in each bar are acted upon by pickers or jacks which are acted upon
as may be required by the jacquard according to the pattern put on the pattern
cards.
The cams which move these guide bars are placed at the right hand end
of the machine so that the guide bars fall to the left when the carriages
are at the back and rise to the right when the carriages are at the front of
the threads
I also employ two other guide bars one of these guide bars is placed between
the spool guide bar and warp bar the other guide bar being placed in front of the
spool bar.
These extra guide bars are acted upon by cams or contrivances which are
placed at the left hand end of the machine:
I also employ a stop or bolt which is acted upon either by the jacquard or
cam.
This bolt or stop when acted upon either prevents the spool and warp guide
bars from moving or allows their respective cams to cause them to move as
hereinafter described.
I will now explain my method of working the guide bars and the way the
stop or bolt is used and to do this it will be better understood by referring to the
drawings
Figure 1 represents the guide bars 1, 2, 3 and 4 with the carriages at front and
back.
Figure 2 represents the stop or bolt O intercepting the guide bar levers 1
and 3.
Figure 3 shows the stop or bolt withdrawn from the guide bar levers 1 and 3.
Figure 4 shows the different kind of nets that can be made by the methods
described.
Figure 5 shows N° 2 guide bar wheel or cam.
Figure 6 is the guide bar wheel N° 1 and 3 when the jacks are working
double speed as in my second method
Figure 7 Is the cam for guide bar N° 4.
FIRST MOTION
The warp guide bar N° 1 and the spool guide bar No 3 are acted upon by their
respective cams E and allowed to fall three gaits to the left the extra guide bars 2
and 4 are acted upon by their game and moda to
nies
are reit
to the Jaf the

page_text: D VAA
Nos 1 and 3 guide bars are again acted upon by their cams E and made to rise 5
gaits to the right the guide bars 2 and 4 are again acted upon by their cams and
are allowed to fall to the right one gait the carriages A. then pass through the
threads to the back of the machine and the points take up the work in the usual
way.
It must be understood that the picker bar B always falls one gait to the left
when the carriages are in the back-and rises one gait when the carriages are in the
front of the threads
The first or second motions as described are repeated until the proper number of
motions are made. To make a hole the guide bars are again acted upon as in the
first motion the carriages A then pass through the threads to the front of the
machine the point taking up the work as before. The guide bars 1 and 3 are then
made to rise as in the second motion and at the same time the bolt or stop C is
acted upon by its cam and allowed to fall and intercept the guide bar levers N° 1
and 3.
The guide bar N° 2 is now acted upon by its cam and made to move 4 gaits to
the right motion Nº 30 on N° 2 guide bar wheel N° 4 guide bar resting during
this motion the carriages A then pass through the threads to the jack the points
acting as before; the jacks are not acted upon in this motion.
The guide bars 1 and 3 being still at rest are held by the stop or bolt C and
prevented from being acted upon by their cams E guide bars 2 and 4 are also
allowed to rest during this motion the carriages A are then passed through the
threads to the front and the points again act as before.
The bolt or stop C is now acted upon by its cam and is withdrawn from the
guide bar levers D N° 1 and 3 Quide bar N° 2 is again acted upon by its cam
and made to move 3 gaits (N° 32 motion on guide bar wheel N° 2) to the right
No 4 guide bar is also acted upon by its cam and made to move one gait to the
right the carriages A again pass through the threads and the points take up the
work as usual.
The threads in N° 2 guide bar has now passed over 7 carriages or threads or
two holes of the work causing a straight line across the work as shown in Figure 4.
The required number of motions No 1 and 2 are again made to make a hole as
before and the carriages A being now in the front the stop or bolt C is again acted
upon by its cam and caused to again intercept the guide bar levers D N° 1' and 3
as before. The guide bar N° 2 is acted upon by its cam and made to move to the
left 4 gaits N° 14 motion the guide 4 is allowed by its cam to rest the carriages A
then pass through the threads to the back.
The guide bars 1, 2, 3 and 4 are allowed to rest during this motion the
carriages A again pass to the front when the guide bar No 2 is again acted upon
by its cam and made to move 3 gaits to the left N° 26 motion Nº 4 guide, bar. is
acted upon by its cam and made to move one gait to the right and at the same
time the stop or bolt C is acted upon by its cam and withdrawn from intercepting
the guide bar levers D N° 1 and 3 the carriages A then pass through the threads
and the points take up the work as before
The threads in guide bar N° 2 have now passed over seven carriages into their
first position again causing a straight line across the work as shown in dotted lines
figure 4
Having now. explained my first method of working the guide bars to produce a
straight line across the work I would have it understood that I do not confine
myself entirely to the movements as described as I can effect the same in result
another way which I will now describe,

page_text: The guide- bars-N* 1. and 3 are acted upon by the stop or bolt. C. in the same
way as desoribed in my first method.
The jacks or pickers B work double the speed same as when making what is
known in the trade as double action but are only selected by the jacquard on one
motion.
c. 1
When the required number of motions N° 1 and 2 are made to make one hole
as in my first method and the carriages A are in the front the stop or bolt C is
acted upon by its cam and allowed to intercept the guide bar levers D 1 and 3 the
guide bar No 2 is acted upon by its cam and made to move as in method N° 1
4 gaits to the right, N° 4 guide bar is allowed to rest; the carriages A then pass to
the back the points acting as before.
The guide bars are allowed to rest during this motion the carriages A again pass
to the front the points acting as before.
The guide bar N° 2 is now acted upon by its cam and made to move 3 gaits
more to the right N° 4 guide bar is acted upon and made to move one gait to the
right The stop or bolt C is at the same time acted upon by its cam and with-
drawn from the guide bar levers D 1 and 3. The carriages A again make their
movements to the back and the points take up the threads as before.
The threads in N° 2 guide bar have now passed over seven carriages A or
threads and made a straight line across the work as in first method
The required number of motions 1 and 2 are again made to make a hole. The
carriages A are brought to the front when the same movement is given to the
stop or bolt C to intercept the levers D N° 1 and 3.
The guide bar N° 2 is acted upon by its cam and made to move 4 gaits to the left
N° 4 guide bar is allowed to rest the carriages A then pass through the threads to the
back of the threads the points again acting as before The guide bars in this motion
are not acted upon by their cams but are allowed to rest, the carriages A again pass to
the front and the points again act as before the carriages A being now in the front
No 2 guide is again acted upon and made to move 3 gaits more to the left
No 4 guide bar is made to move one gait to the right the stop or bolt C is now
acted upon by its cam and withdrawn from the levers D 1 and 3 the carriages A
then pass through the threads to the back and the points take up the work in the
usual way.
The threads in No 2 guide bar have now passed over seven carriages
and are in their first position causing another straight line across the work thus
forming a square hole which can either be filled up by threads to form a diamond
shaped figure or a cross or may have various grounds inserted as required in
accordance to the pattern cards of the jacquard
With this arrangement of guide bars and the wheel N° 2 I am enabled to use
each warp thread on each side. The square hole is for forming fancy grounds
which can be varied by causing the threads in N° 2 guide bar to, pass over a
greater number of carriages thus in Figure 4 4 P shows grounds more varied than
in Figure 4. The threads in No. 2 guide bar having passed over 11 carriages or
threads Figure 4 G instead of 7 as described in my first methods having at
same time power to fill up any portion of the grounds at pleasure as shown in
Figure 4 P.
Having now described the nature of my said invention and in what manner the
same is to be performed I would have it understood that I do not confine myself
to the precise details hereinbefore mentioned and shown so long as the character of
my invention be retained but what I do claim is
First The method of passing a thread or a number of threads across other threads
thereby causing a straight line across the work to 'be produced as set
forth
Secondly Making a X cross or diamond shaped figure inside a square hole as and
for the purpose described
Thirdly Producing various fancy grounds inside the square holes as may be

page_text: Fourthly The arrangements and movements as herein substantially set forth but
would have it understood that I do not confine myself to the precise
movements of each guide bar as described as they may either be increased
or diminished or varied to produce different sized holes or to increase or
diminish or vary the density of the cloth work in the pattern.
In witness whereof I the said Aaron Mosley have hereunto set my hand and
seal this 31 day of August in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred
and eighty three