IMPROVEMENTS IN AND RELATING TO THE CUTTING OF PILE FABRICS AND IN APPARATUS THEREFOR
Year: 1884

page_text: PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATON.
I HENRY HARRIS LAKE of the firm of Haseltine Lake & Co Patent Agents
Southampton Buildings London in the County of Middlesex do hereby declare the
nature of said invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN AND RELATING TO THE CUTTING
OF PILE FABRICS AND IN APPARATUS THEREFOR " to be as follows :-
This invention relates to the cutting of pile fabrics and comprises an improved
method of, and apparatus for, producing upon velvet or other pile fabrics all kinds
of designs, such as stripes or flowers, not by impression as heretofore practised, but
by differences in the height of the pile.
This result is obtained with double piled velvet, that is say, velvet formed by
weaving two united fabrics simultaneously, by means of novel devices which may
consist of rollers or plates and which are hereinafter described.
In the process heretofore employed for cutting double-piled velvet, clamping
plates for holding the velvet were employed, which, presenting the velvet in front
of the cutter or knife flat throughout its width, forced the fabric to be cut
uniformly, so that each part of the said fabric had the same length of pile.
According to the present invention, the designs made upon the velvet are
produced as above mentioned by differences in the height of the pile. For
instance, to produce stripes in the direction of the warp, grooved clamping plates
or rollers are employed.
When clamping plates are employed grooves or channels are formed upon their
surfaces, which are to come in contact with the double-piled fabric care being
taken to arrange the grooves alternately that is to say so that the edges of the
grooves in one plate are situated opposite the centre of the groove in the other
plate. In this manner, the fabric being pressed between these clamping plates, is
caused to follow the outline of their grooved surfaces and thus take exactly their
impress, and presents itself in this undulated form in front of the cutter or blade,
which simultaneously cuts the pile short at some parts of the upper portion of the
fabric, and long at the corresponding parts of the lower portion of the said fabric,
and vice versa.

page_text: It will be readily understood that although the same quantity of pile is used in
this process as in the processes heretofore employed, all kinds of designs can be
produced, with facility. It is sufficient for this purpose to use an apparatus
which, whether in the form of rollers or plates, temporarily imprints its shape
upon the velvet during the passage or stroke of the cutter or blade.
The apparatus is sometimes composed of two rollers which cause the velvet to be
cut with diagonal stripes. It will be readily understood that these rollers can be
provided, one with flowers or other designs formed in relief, whilst the other is
made with the same design in intaglio, which design will be exactly repeated upon
one portion of the fabric by a short pile and upon the other part thereof by a long
pile. These rollers rotate together by reason of the friction caused by the passage
of the fabric between them; when, however, more regularity is desired they may
be rotated together by means of two small pinions placed outside the vertical_bars
of the apparatus, upon the axis of each roller and in gear with each other. These
pinions may be actuated either mechanically or otherwise.
In some cases I reproduce designs upon single-pile fabrics by cutting them so as
to form inequalities in the length of the pile.
.
The improved apparatus may be used in combination with a loom or otherwise.
Dabad thin 10th 100
TORA

page_text: I, HENRY HARRIS LAKE, of the firm of Haseltine Lake & Co, Patent Agents,
Southampton Buildings London, in the County of Middlesex do hereby declare
the nature of my invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN AND. RELATING TO THE
CUTTING OF PILE FABRICS, AND IN APPARATUS THEREFOR
and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement :-
”
This invention relates to the cutting of pile fabrics and comprises an improved
method of, and apparatus for, producing figured velvet or other pile fabrics
exhibiting all kinds of designs, such as stripes, round figures or flowers, not by
impression as heretofore practised, but by differences in the heights of the pile
threads.
This result is obtained with double piled velvet, that is to say, velvet forined by
weaving two united fabrics simultaneously, by means of novel devices which may
consist of rollers or plates, and which are hereinafter described.
The invention is illustrated in the accompanying drawing the various figures of
which are hereinafter described.
In the process heretofore employed for cutting double piled velvet, plates for
guiding the passage of the velvet as shewn in Figure 1 were employed, which,
presenting the velvet in front of the cutter or knife flat throughout its width,
forced the fabric to be cut uniformly so that cach part of the said fabric had the
same length of pile.
According to the present invention the designs made upon the velvet are
produced as above mentioned by differences in the height of the pile. For
instance to produce stripes in the direction of the warp the grooved guiding plates
shown in Figure 2 are employed.
When guiding plates are employed grooves or channels are formed upon their
surfaces which are to come in contact with the double piled fabric, care being
taken to arrange the grooves alternately, that is to say, so that the edges of the
grooves in one plate are situated opposite the centres of the grooves in the other
plate. In this manner, the fabric being pressed between these guiding plates is
caused to follow the outline of their grooved surfaces and thus take exactly their
impress, and to present itself in this undulated form in front of the cutter or knife,
which simultaneously cuts the pile short at some parts of the upper portion of the
fabric and long at corresponding parts of the lower portion of the said fabric and
vice versa.
Figure 4 shews in vertical section double piled velvet which has been cut by the
knife.
It will be readily understood that although the same quantity of pile is used in
this process as in the processes heretofore employed, all kinds of designs can be
produced with facility. It is sufficient for this purpose to use an apparatus which,
whether in the form of guiding rollers or plates, temporarily imprints its shape
upon the velvet during the passage or stroke of the cutter or knife.
Figure 3 shews an apparatus composed of two guiding rollers which cause the
velvet to be cut with slanting stripes. It will be readily understood that these
rollers can be provided, one with flowers or other designs formed in relief, whilst
the other is made with the same design in intaglio which design will be exactly
repeated upon one portion of the fabric by a short pile, and upon the other part
thereof by a long pile These rollers rotate together by reason of the friction
caused by the passage of the fabric between them; when, however, more regularity

page_text: F
is desired they may be rotated together by means of two small pinions placed
inside or outside the supports of the apparatus, upon the axis of each roller and in
gear with each other. These pinions may be actuated either mechanically or
otherwise.
The application of a guiding apparatus or movable guiding roller enables several
results to be obtained of which the following may be enumerated:-
1st The possibility of cutting the pile so as to obtain different heights enables it
also to be left whole, producing in this manner torry or uncut velvet.
2nd In the manufacture of velvet having a satin back, making only one fabric
(1 piece) by sacrificing the upper fabric or even without the upper fabric, when
only a few warp threads are employed to guide the shuttle. This process renders
the manufacture of velvet with satin back as easy as possible and enables great
widths to be made which has heretofore been impossible, owing to the quantity of
silk, and to the immense passage the double satin had to make.
3rd It is possible with this process to make also velvet of two colors by working
up, for instance, 4 or 5 centimeters of black pile warp, and making afterwards, by
a pile warp of a blue or other color, the main warp which becomes the pile-warp in
its turn, the black pile-warp forming at this moment the main warp. Thereupon
the terry or uncut velvet is obtained, which product is determined by the employ-
ment of guiding apparatus or rollers of any suitable kind, as described above,
I wish it understood that I do not confine myself to the guiding apparatus
shown, as any guiding apparatus capable of producing upon a velvet any designs
in consequence of the inequalities in the height of the pile may be employed.
The invention may also be applied to machines for cutting single or double piled
velvet or any other piled fabric.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is
First. The employment of a guiding apparatus, which causes the fabric to be
presented in front of the knife under such conditions that the pattern or design
upon the guiding apparatus, which consists either of rollers of a suitable form,
plates or their equivalents, is reproduced upon the fabric, not by impression, but
by differences in the height of the pile.
Second. The application of a guiding apparatus for causing a pattern or design
to be produced upon the velvet by differences in the height of the pile, to machines
for cutting double pile fabrics after the manufacture, that is to say to machines for
separating the two pieces of the fabric when not cut upon the loom.
Deted this 17th of No 1001