IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS
Year: 1882

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Patrick Lehany of the firm of Chapman and Lehany,
of Tabernacle Walk, Finsbury, in the county of Middlesex, Boot and Shoe
Manufacturers, for an Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE
OF BOOTS"
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Patrick Lehany at the Office
of the Commissioners of Patents on the 21st June 1882.
PATRICK LEHANY, of the firm of Chapman and Lehany, of Tabernacle
Walk, Finsbury, in the county of Middlesex, Boot and Shoe Manufacturers
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS #
This invention has for object the manufacture of a boot which shall possess the
advantage of a combined boot and gaiter which shall be watertight and which
can be easily and expeditiously put on and taken off thereby rendering it specially
suitable for the use of soldiers and sportsmen.
In carrying out my invention I cut the outside of the boot with the front,
blucher fashion and the quarters are carried high so as to form the gaiter.
The lining is cut so as also to form the ".
'tongue" and the front or tongue
portion thereof is pleated or folded in such a manner that it shall be extensible
without the necessity of its being formed with gores. The forming the lining and
"tongue" in the manner herein before described also enables the lining to be carried
throughout the boot thereby ensuring its being watertight.
For fastening the boot I employ a strap and buckle crossing the neck of the
instep, and a number of loops passing through holes in the flap; the said loops
after being passed through the holes in the flap and through one another, are
fastened and hold in position by the said strap being passed through the lowermost
loop and then buckled.

page_text: EPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said Patrick Lehany in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
20th December 1882.
"
PATRICK LEHANY of the firm of Chapman and Lohany of Tabernacle
Walk, Finsbury in the county of Middlesex, Boot and Shoo Manufacturers
IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS "
This invention has for object the manufacture of a boot which shall possess
the advantage of a combined boot and gaiter which shall be watertight and
which can be easily and expeditiously put on and taken off thereby rendering it
specially suitable for the use of soldiers and sportsmen.
In carrying out my invention I cut the outside of the boot with the front,
blucher fashion and the quarters are carried high so as to form the gaiter. Tho
lining is cut so as to dispense with the usual "tongue" and the front or what may
be called the tongue portion thereof is pleated or folded in such a manner that it
shall be extensible without the necessity of its being forined with gores. The
forming the lining and "tongue" in the manner hereinbefore described also
enables the lining to be carried throughout the boot thereby onsuring its being
watertight.
For fastening the boot I employ a strap and buckle crossing the neck of the
instep, and a number of loops passing through holes in the flap; the said loops
after being passed through the holes in the flap and through one another,
are fastened and held in position by the said strap being passed through the
lowermost loop and then buckled.
"
In order to enable my invention to be better understood I will proceed to
describe the same by reference to the accompanying drawing in which figure 1,
is a side elevation of a boot made according to my invention, the boot being shown
fastened; figure 2 is a plan of the top of the boot shown in figuro 1; figure 3
is a front elevation of the boot, the flaps being open or unfastened; figure 4, is n
detached side view of the lining of tho boot tho dotted lines shewing the part
which forms the pleat, the lining having a similar pleat on the other side, and
figure 5, is a similar view to that shewn in figure 4, but shewing the pleat folded.
Similar letters in all the figures represent similar parts.
In carrying out my invention I make use of a Blucher" front a, with quarters
or backs b, which may be whole or joined, cut at the lower portions somewhat to
resemble the "Blucher" laced boot, but continued to a sufficient height to form
the gaiter c; To the edge of the quarter or back b, which is intended to be placed
on the inner side of the foot I join a flap d, resembling a "button piece." In place
of the ordinary bellows tongue and of the gores which have been substituted for
it in boots of this class I use a lining e, (figures 4 and 5) which extends throughout
the boot and which is preferably of leather but may be of india-rubber, water-
proofed fabric or other suitable material. The lining e, is joined only at the back
and front or it may be blocked so as to do away with either or both of the back
and front scams. The lining by itself when seamed or blocked bears considerable
resemblance to a " Wellington" boot except that its seams are at the back and front
only or at the back only or at the front only instead of at the sides and it is,
when seamed or blocked, waterproof in itself. In cutting the lining greater width
is given at the heel line than usual and from thence the width increases to the top
of the lining to provide for the pleats or folds. In preparing the lining to be fitted
into the boot a pleat or fold f, is made on each side thereof commencing at the
point g, shewn in the drawing, and these folds are arranged so as continually to

page_text: increase in width to the top as shewn in figure 4. By this arrangement the extra
width of leather allowed in tho lining lies flat against the side of the boot when
the boot is in its ordinary position as will be seen by reference to figure 2, but on
its being necessary to put on or take off the boot, the folds expand so as to allow
a sufficient amount of room for the foot to pass. I thus attain the object usually
intended to be effected by the "bellows" tongue or by gores, by means of the
lining alone, without any of the seams or gores which have heretofore been
necessary. The lining is joined to the outside quarters or backs and front by rows
of stitching at the backs, and at the sides, and by a row across the top edge of the
"Blucher" front as shewn in dotted lines at figure 1 I prefer to attach a strip
of leather 8, to the front of the lining and to the “ Blucher" front for the purpose
of affording greater hold to the wearer in putting the boot on but the boot may
be completed without the strip above mentioned.
For fastening the said boot I make three loops i, i, i, which are attached to the
outside quarter and which pass through corresponding holes j, j,j, in the flap and
downward through each other, the two uppermost being secured by the two
lowermost and the lowest one being in turn fastened by the strap, passing
through it over the neck of the instep and meeting a corresponding buckle l, on the
opposite side, by which means the boot is effectually secured.
The fastening I have described and shewn in the drawing is that which I have
found to answer best in practice but the boot may be made to fasten by means
of the ordinary lace or by means of buttons as will be well understood without
further description.
It will thus be seen that by my improvements I provide a boot which will be
specially suited to the requirements of soldiers, sportsmen and others, being water
and dust proof having also the advantages of a combined boot and gaiter
and which owing to the nature and construction of the openings, may be
easily put on or taken off when the foot is swollen, which may be rapidly put on
and fastened in darkness and which will remain on the foot and may be worn
with little inconvenience if left unfastened, without diminution of its waterproof
qualities, and furthermore which has no gores nor joins so situate internally as to
hurt the foot or to become unfastened.
Having thus described my invention and the best means I am acquainted
with for carrying the same into effect I wish it to be understood that What I
claim is :-
Firstly. The manufacture and use of waterproof boots having a lining made as
herein before described so as to dispense with the use of the ordinary tongue and
without gores, substantially in the manner and for the purposes hereinbefore
described and represented in the accompanying drawing.
Secondly. The construction and employment of pleated linings for waterproof
boots as hereinbefore described and represented in figures 4 and 5 of the
accompanying drawing.
Thirdly. The uso in the manner described of the heroin described fastening for
boots consisting of a combination of loops with a strap and buckle in the manner
herein before described and represented in figures 1 and 3 of the accompanying
drawing.
In Witness whereof I the said Patrick Lehnny have hereto set my hand
and seal this twentieth day of December in the year of our Lord one
thousand night hundred and nichtu kinn