Improvements in Appliances for Taking the Measure of Garments and for Marking or Cutting out the Cloth for the same.
Year: 1890

page_text: Cate of Application, 30th Jan., 1890
Complete Specification Left, 30th Oct., 1890-Accepted, 6th Dec., 1890
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Appliances for Taking the Measure of Garments
and for Marking or Cutting out the Cloth for the same.
I, MARTIN CARMODY, of 49, St. George's Terrace, Harrington Road, Workington,
in the County of Cumberland, Tailors' Cutter, do hereby declare the nature of this
invention to be as follows:
This invention is designed to provide a cheap apparatus for cutting correctly men's,
boys', and ladies' garments.
The apparatus consists of a series of frames formed of flexible bands of wrought
iron, brass or other suitable metal or its equivalent. These are roughly made to the
size of each piece of cloth which forms the coat or garment to be executed and a series
of these appliances are used so that varying sized individuals can be fitted. Each
section of the apparatus is formed of a network of these bands joined at intervals by
swivel or other joints where they cross and almost all these bands are provided with
sliding joints and set-screws so that they can be lengthened or shortened as required
when on the individual. Each of these pieces are also supplied with attachments
quickly done and undone uniting them to each other. Thus the entire skeleton when
the pieces are united form a coat or other garment. This coat is fitted on the
individual separately and the various bands are lengthened and shortened until this
skeleton coat exactly fits the individual. In places like the waist where a very large
amount of taking in is required I attach a large number of pivotted strips projecting
upwards parallel with each other. These fit against a bar having a series of figures
marked thereon corresponding to these bands. When the coat is fitted these bands
are pressed into the waist and thus to some extent fold one over the other, their
position on the row of figures is recorded and in this way the exact shape of the waist
is ascertained. At the corners of the coat where they are either cornered or rounded
separate bars can be arranged so that a corner band can be taken out and a
rounded band put in its place. Each of the slide bars is provided with a scale so that
the exact length of these bars when they are screwed in place can be read off and
recorded. By this means the skeleton coat can always at any future time be arranged
to the exact fit of the individual who has had it tried on. When the skeleton coat is
fitted and the various bars screwed up tight it is taken off the individual the
attachments connecting various parts each representing a piece of cloth are undene
and the separate frames are laid upon the cloth cut out to their outside boundaries the
outside hands being just wide enough to allow for the same. In this way a coat is
fitted with a greater accuracy by a novice than a first class cutter as a rule can
fit it.
In order to allow for variations of form of coat such for instance a single breast and
double breast an extra range of bands can be attached to the main piece in such mode
that it can be instantly taken off when required. The extra range of bands being
used for the dress-coat.
Dated this 1st March 1890
WM. P. THOMPSON,
Of 6, Lord Street, Liverpool, Patent Agent for the Applicant.

page_text: Improvements in Appliances for Taking the Measure of Garments
and for Marking or Cutting out the Cloth for the same.
I, MARTIN CARMODY of 49, St. George's Terrace, Harrington Road, Workington,
in the County of Cumberland, Tailors' Cutter, do hereby declare the nature of this
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described
and ascertained in and by the following statement:—
The invention is designed to provide a cheap appliance for taking the measure of
garments for men, women, boys or girls, and for correctly marking or cutting out the
material for the same.
The appliance consists of a series of frames formed of flexible bands of steel, wrought
iron, brass, leather or other suitable metal or material. These frames or sections are
made approximately to the size of each piece of cloth which is to form the garment
required, and a series of the appliances of various sizes are used, so that different sized
individuals can he fitted. Each section is formed of a network of the said bands
which are joined at intervals, or at the points where they cross or meet, by swivel,
hinge, clasp or other joints. The majority of the hands also are so constructed that
they may be lengthened or shortened as required when the appliance is on the
individual, and to this end they may be provided with sliding joints and set screws,
or be otherwise made adjustable as to length. Each of the said sections is also
furnished with suitable attachments whereby they may be united one to the other,
the attachments being of such a nature that they may be readily fastened and
unfastened. Thus, when the sections are united, the entire appliance forms, as it
were, a skeleton garment, which is placed upon the individual, either as a whole or
section by section, the various bands being lengthened or shortened, as required, until
an exact fit is obtained.
The nature of the invention and the manner in which it is to be performed may be
more particularly described and ascertained by describing in detail the construction
and mode of operation of an appliance adapted to measure an individual for an
ordinary "jumper" coat, reference being had to the accompanying drawings in
which
"
Figure 1 illustrates one half only of such an appliance. The reversed counterpart
being constructed in an exactly similar manner requires no special description.
Figure 2 is a detail of an adjusting device hereinafter more fully described.
Figure 3 shows an arrangement which may be employed when a large amount of
taking in is likely to be required.
The appliance shown in Figure 1 consists of two separate sections distinguished
respectively by the letters A and B. The section A is for measuring, marking and
cutting out the front part of the coat, and the section B performs the same office for
the back piece. The two sections may be united along their vertical edges by means
of buttons and holes a or by hooks and eyes, or by clasps, or other suitable
devices which can be readily manipulated. The upper edges of the sections,
corresponding to the shoulder seam of the coat are also provided with buttons and
holes ab or their equivalent, whereby they may be united, the arm of the individual
being inserted through the hole C formed between the curved edges of the sections.
The back edge of the section B and the front edge of the section A may also be united
by similar means (as seen at a² ²) to the back and front edges respectively of the
back and front sections of the reverse half of the appliance.
The construction of the section A is as follows:-
A main band D runs from the top to the bottom of the section being hinged or
otherwise flexibly jointed at suitable intervals, as shown. The front band E E' runs
approximately parallel to the band D being formed of a series of short bands E

page_text: united at suitable intervals by short pieces of woven or twisted chainwork E' or by
other very flexible devices. The hands D and E E' are united by cross bands F
which are hinged as at f or otherwise flexibly attached to the main band D,
their opposite ends being attached to the flexible parts E' of the front band.
The neck band G G is formed wholly of flexible chainwork or partly of
chainwork G and partly of short hands G₁ as shown, the chainwork portion being
united to the main band by cross bands y which are hinged to the latter band and are
pivoted at their opposite ends as at g' to eye pieces through which the chain may
be moved longitudinally as desired.
The salient portion of the framework by which the lapel is to be marked out
is preferably hinged as at e along a line corresponding to the crease of said lapel when
folded down.
The front arm band H H¹ is formed either wholly of flexible chainwork or partly of
chainwork H and partly of short bands H', as shown, pivotally or otherwise flexibly
jointed to each other. An overplus of chain is left at so that the chain may be
lengthened to suit individuals of various sizes. The chainwork H and main band
united by a series of cross bands in a precisely similar manner to that described
with reference to the bands G G' aforesaid.
are
The top band J corresponding to the shoulder seam is formed of a series of short
bands, as shown, suitably jointed to each other, to the main band D and to the
chain bands G and H.
The rear band K K' is constructed in a similar manner to the front band E E',
and the bottom band is formed of a series of short bands L as shown.
The space bounded by the bands D', H, K K', and L is filled in with any
suitable arrangement of short bands jointed to each other and to the contiguous bands
by such flexible devices as may be thought most desirable in each particular part.
In order to register the seam which is subsequently to form the hollow at the side
of the coat, I provide a pair of vertical bands M M lying approximately parallel to
cach other, one on each side of the position to be occupied by the side seam. The
bands M M may abut against each other and be connected by buttons or clasps, or
they may be connected by a series of cross bands m, which are preferably adjustable
as to length in a manner hereinafter described. The two bands M M' are united at
their upper ends to the scie bands H' and at their lower ends they converge as shown
being jointed to the main cross band K².
The section B for measuring the back piece is constructed as follows:-
The front band N N' is substantially the same as the rear band of section A
aforesaid and is adapted to be joined to the same as aforesaid by flat buttons and
holes a b, or their equivalent.
The rear band is formed of a series of short bands O hinged at intervals as at 0¹,
and it is united to the front band by a series of cross bands 02 which are
connected to the flexible portions N' of the latter band but may be rigidly secured to
the rear band O.
The neck band P may be formed of one or more short bands and is pivoted at its
upper end to the shoulder seam band Q as shown.
The band Q, which is adapted to be united to the corresponding band J on the
section A (by means of the buttons a¹ and holes ) is formed of two or more
short bands pivoted (or otherwise flexibly jointed) as at p to a diagonal band R
hereinafter described.
The scie band S is constructed in the same manner as the chainwork portion H of
the corresponding band on section A and it is similarly united by cross bands S' with
a hinged vertical band S2 which extends from about the centre of the shoulder seam
band to the upper cross band O' aforesaid. The band S Las also an overplus
of length as at St.
The diagonal band R aforesaid extends from the shoulder seam band-preferably
from its point of junction with the vertical band S2-to the junction of the upper cross
band O with the rear band O. A subsidiary vertical band R' also connects this

page_text: diagonal band with a point at or near the junction of the neck band P and
shoulder seam band Q, the junction of the bands R' and P being preferably formed
of chain work as shown.
Arrangements of bands other than that described above may be employed for
filling in the space between the scie, shoulder seam, neck and back bands S. Q, P, 0
and the cross band 02.
The whole of the bands in all the sections are, by preference, so made that they may
be lengthened or shortened. To this end, each hand may be formed in two pieces
which overlap each other as seen in Figure 2. Each piece is slotted longitudinally for
the reception of a headed stud T which is provided with a clamping nut T'. Or the
stud may be attached to one piece and pass through the other. Other adjustable
clamping devices (such as clasps, holes and studs, etcetera) may, however, be employed
in lieu of the studs and nuts aforesaid. The cross bands may also be secured to their
respective chain bands by any suitable adjustable clasp device.
When a coat is required to have its front bottom corners more or less sloped
or rounded off than the one to which the appliance shown is adapted, I may remove
those members of the bands E E', D and L which lie nearest the lower front corner of
the appliance, together with the adjacent portions of the bands F and K³, by taking off
the nuts T, and I may substitute for these bands another set which will be adapted to
mark out a corner of the required shape.
Where a large amount of taking-in is required in a garment, as for example,
round the waist, a construction such as shown in Figure 3 may be employed. U are
a number of parallel flexible strips, which are pivoted to and project upwards from the
hip band K2. The upper ends of the strips fit against a band U₁ bearing a series
of figures corresponding to the number of the vertical strips U. When the appliance
is fitted on to the individual, the strips U are pressed into the waist so that
they lap over each other to some extent. Their position on the row of figures
is now recorded and in this way the exact shape of the waist may be ascertained.
In order to allow for variations in the form of coat, as for instance a "single-breast"
and "double-breast" an additional range of bands may be attached to the front
(or other) section of the appliance, in such a manner that it can be instantly taken off
when required. An additional range of bands may also be suitably employed for the
lapels and tails of a dress coat.
The section or sections for measuring the sleeves of a coat are constructed of hands
in a similar manner to that described above. The invention may also be applied
to the measuring, marking or cutting of breeches, vests, ladies' jackets, etcetera, the
arrangement of the various bands and their connections and also the shape of
the section being modified according to circumstances. I have not thought it
necessary, however, to show or describe in detail the appliances as adapted for
various kinds of garments, as they are all constructed on the same principle, namely,
a series of separate but attachable skeleton sections built up of flexible or
jointed bands adjustable as to length, and the particular arrangement or shape
may be varied indefinitely.
Each of the adjustable bands may be provided with a scale, so that the exact
length of these bands, when they are securely adjusted, can be read off and recorded.
By this means, the skeleton appliance can always, at any future time, be arranged to
the exact fit of the individual who has had it tried on.
When the skeleton appliance has been fitted and the various bands firmly secured
after adjustment, it is taken off the individual, the attachments connecting various
sections (each representing a piece of material) are undone, and the separate sections
are laid upon the material and the latter marked or cut out by their aid, sufficient
material being left beyond the boundaries of the outside bands to form the
various seams. In this way, a garment may be fitted with great accuracy, even by
a novice.
In case a person, desiring to employ the appliance, has not sufficient practical
knowledge to retain the proportionate run of seam for garments of very different sizes,

page_text: he may use the appliance in conjunction with a printed diagram and a series of scales.
On this, the various sections will be shown in diagram, each adjustable band being
distinguished by a number, identical with a number on the corresponding band on the
appliance. The scales set forth the approximate lengths of the bands for measuring
an individual having a given chest or waist measurement. For instance, suppose
an unskilled person desires to measure an individual having a 39-inch chest. He
consults the 39-inch scales for the various sections and sets the various bands of said
sections to their approximate lengths by the aid of said scales, so that the garment
is roughly drafted mechanically without any knowledge of cutting. He then joins
the various sections together and puts the appliance on the individual to be
measured. He can now adjust the various bands accurately where required.
In many cases I prefer to form the whole of the greater part of the outer bands of
the various sections of chainwork such as above described. I may also form the
waist seam bands, and even parts of the other bands, M M', of chainwork. Instead of
the chainwork bands hereinbefore described, I may employ bands of chainwork and
leather combined, or of leather alone, or of leather combined with cloth or other
pliable or elastic material, or of cloth alone. When the outer bands are of chainwork
or of similar very pliable material, it is sometimes advisable to stiffen the adjacent
cross bands where these occur, as, for instance, in the case of the front band E E-
by means of an additional row of short adjustable bands, running approximately
parallel to the chain work. Or the chain work or equivalent bands may themselves be
stiffened, where necessary, by a wire running longitudinally through or along them.
This wire may be conveniently secured between the chain work and its cloth or leather
backing, where such is employed. When the outer bands are of chain, I prefer to
form the lapel hinges e of leather or cloth.
The chainwork bands are, in all cases, connected to the adjacent cross bands, or
other adjacent but more rigid bands, by means of eye-pieces or loops 92 as aforesaid,
the bands passing through the loops which are pivoted to the cross bands or their
equivalent. Each chainwork band has an overplus, as before described, which may
be taken up or let out either at one or both ends of the band or at one or more
intermediate points therein. The chain work bands pass freely through the eye-
pieces g², but each eye-piece adjacent to the overplus of the band is furnished with
a clasp or other fastening device whereby the hand may be clamped when its
length has been adjusted. The chain bands may be graduated in any suitable
manner.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is:-
1. An appliance for taking the measure of garments and for marking or cutting out
the material for the same, said appliance consisting of a skeleton garinent built up of a
series of detachable sections, each approximately of the shape of the pieces of material
required for the garment, and each formed of a series of flexible or jointed bands
adapted to be adjusted as regards their length to suit the shape of the individual
upon which the appliance is fitted.
2. In an appliance of the kind described, a series of parallel flexible strips, pivotally
or flexibly mounted at their adjacent ends upon that part of the appliance where
a large amount of taking-in is likely to be required, and adapted to overlap each
other at their opposite ends when pressed inwards against the individual that is being
measured, the amount of such overlapping being read off on a scale adjacent to the
free ends of the strips, substantially as described.
3. In combination with an appliance of the kind described, a series of inter-
changeable corner pieces, each adapted to be fitted on to the front section of the
appliance, according to the shape of corner required in the garment.
4. An appliance for taking the measure of garments, formed of a network of bands
of variable length with scales on some or all of these bands, whereby their lengths

page_text: required can be read off and recorded and so the exact fit can be reproduced at any
future time, substantially as described.
Dated this 90th day of October 1890.
WM. P. THOMPSON & Co.,
Agents for the Applicant.