IMPROVEMENTS IN HOSIERY MACHINERY
Year: 1886

page_text: Date of Application, 5th Apr., 1886.
Complete Left, 5th Jan., 1887.
Complete Accepted, 8th Feb., 1887.
I WILLIAM HENRY DORMAN of Foregate Street Stafford in the county of Stafford,
Engineer do hereby declare the nature of my invention for IMPROVEMENTS IN HOSIERY
MACHINERY to be as follows:-
My invention relates principally to that class of hosiery machines known as
"Circular Reversible Knitting Machines" but some parts of my invention are equally
applicable to straight bar knitters. My improved Knitting machinery consists chiefly of
the following parts viz :-The body which has the usual brackets with which to fasten
it to the table carries a bevel wheel by which motion is transmitted from the handle or
driving pulley to the geared reversing ring & thence to the other moving parts.
The grooved needle bed hereinafter called the Cylinder which may be either in the
form of a cylinder or a cone.
A cam ring (either cylindrical or conical to correspond with the needle bed) which
carries the cams by which the cylinder needles are actuated and which may receive
from the geared ring either a continuous or a reciprocating motion at the will of the
operator.
A yarn guide for supplying yarn to the needles & a yarn stand for conducting
the yarn from the bobbin to the yarn guide. To these parts which constitute the
machine proper may be added a ribbing attachment consisting chiefly of the
following parts. An arm by which this attachment is supported. The grooved needle
bed or dial which may be either conical or flat. The cam cap (either conical or flat to
correspond with the dial) which carries the cams which actuate the ribbing needles.
And a device for adjusting this dial to the cylinder needles radially.
My improvements relate in the first place to an arrangement of cams for actuating
the cylinder needles. The upthrow cam and the slur cock or depressing cam are of
the usual construction, but I dispense with the usual cam guard. Under each side
of the slur cock I cut away a portion thereof. In the spaces thus left I fix two steel
guides which extend either way and are of such shape as to guide the needles either
above or below the slur cock as required. Attached to or in front of these steel guides
are switches so shaped that the needles can not possibly catch on the ends of these
guides, but are directed either above or below them.

page_text: My improvements also relate to the cams which actuate the dial needles & are
attached to the cam cap. The welting cam may be made in either of several well
known ways so as to allow of the needles being put out of action for forming the welt.
The stitch cam consists of two or three parts which may be adjusted to each other
so that it will knock off the stitches either simultaneously with or after, the cylinder
needles at the will of the operator. My improvements also comprise an improved
method of adjusting the length of the stitches & of adjusting the dial to the cylinder
radially. Round the outside of the cam shell is fitted a ring having a spiral slot
running partially round it & marked with graduations for facility of adjustment.
The thumb screw which serves for clamping the slur cock passes through this slot &
is made a sliding fit in it.
By turning this ring in one direction, the slur cock is raised & in the other it is
depressed, and the length of the stitch varied accordingly, the graduations indicating
the extent of the variations.
For adjusting the dial to the cylinder radially, the under side of the dial is provided
with a lug as usual.
An arm extends up inside the cylinder widened out at its upper part, so as to
engage with the lug on the dial. This arm is fixed rigidly to the underside of the
body of the machine, and the cylinder is made adjustable radially, by which means the
desired adjustment of the dial may be effected.
When knitting plain web, the dial and cam cap of the ribber are removed, and in
their place is substituted a dial and cam cap suitable to carry a radial series of web-
holders of suitable shape to hold down the work between each or every alternate
needle, or in place of the dial and cam cap, I may substitute an adjustable arm,
carrying an inclined wheel which will revolve directly over the upthrow cam of the
machine and pressing upon the web, hold.it down.
The cylinders of my knitting machines are made of steel in the following manner.
A Bar of steel is employed, of breadth sufficient for the depth of the cylinder and
length sufficient for the circumference.
This bar is bent round & the ends brought together as closely as possible.
A saw cut is run through the joint to make a smooth face on each end.
The two clean surfaces are brought together, and brazed or welded; after which
the cylinder is annealed and finished in the usual manner.
A further improvement relates to a device for transferring a ribbed cuff or top to a
circular knitting machine without bringing the needles up into one plane. I make the
circular transferrer in two or more parts or sectors. While the cuff is being run onto
the transferrer, these sectors are held or clamped together in any convenient manner.
After the transferrer has been placed upon the machine, one of the sectors is removed,
thus transferring its part of the loops to the machine.
A partial revolution is then given to the machine, enough to bring up the needles
which were below the top of the cylinder. The remaining loops are then transferred
to these needles and the knitting proceeds.
Another of my improvements consists in cutting the grooves of the cylinder deeper
in their lower; than in their upper part, and in using needles with the tails bent round
to the rear of the main shanks.
This gives the needles a wider hold on the cylinder grooves without weakening the
needles, thus giving greater durability to both needles & cylinders. It also makes
it possible to utilize the old needles after their butts have been worn out by cutting
them off and soldering them into steel jacks.

page_text: described and ascertained in and by the following statement :——
My invention relates principally to that class of Hosiery Machines known as
Circular Reversible Knitting Machines, but some parts of my invention are equally
applicable to straight bar Knitting Machines.
On the accompanying Drawings:
-
Fig. 1 is a sectional elevation taken on the line A B on the plan.
Fig. 2 is a cross section of the Body and Cylinder.
Fig. 3 is a plan.
Fig. 4 is a development of the Cams.
Fig. 5 is a plan of the Cam shell shewing the edge view of the Cams.
Fig. 6 is a development of the Cams shewing the switches.
Fig. 7 is a plan shewing the edge view of the Cams.
Fig. 6 is a view of an alternative device for same.
Fig. 8 is a view of the Cam shell, shewing the slotted Ring.
Fig. 9 shews part of the ribbing arm & a section of the Web Holder device.
Fig. 9 shews an alternative device for the same.
Fig. 10 is a view of the underside of the Cam for the above.
Fig. 11 & 12 are elevation and plan of the Transferrer, some only of the quills
being shown.
-
Fig. 13 shews a needle fixed into a "Jack."
Fig. 14 shews the ordinary form of Knitting Machine needle.
Fig. 15 shews my improved Knitting Machine needle.
Fig. 16 shews alternative forins of the butt of my improved needle.
My improved knitting machine consists chiefly of the following parts, common to
circular knitters in general viz :-The body A which has the usual brackets a, a, with
which to fasten it to the table. A bevel wheel, e, by which motion is transmitted
from the handle, d, (or driving pulley if power be used) to the geared reversing
ring, D, and thence to the other moving parts of the machine. A grooved needle
bed F, hereinafter called the Cylinder, which may be either in the form of a cylinder
or a cone.
.
A Cam ring or shell E (either cylindrical or conical, to correspond with the needle
bed) which carries the cams (Fig. 4), by which the cylinder needles, 7, are actuated,
and which may receive from the geared ring, D, either a continuous or a reciprocating
motion, at the will of the operator.
A yarn guide, n, for supplying yarn to the needles, and a yarn stand. G for con-
ducting the yarn from the bobbin to the yarn guide. To these parts which may be
said to constitute the machine proper may be added: a Ribbing Attachment consisting

page_text: chiefly of the following parts-An arm, I, by which this attachment is supported-A
grooved needle bed, L, hereinafter called the Dial, which may be either conical or flat-
A Cam cap, K, (either conical or flat to correspond with the Dial), which carries the
cams, g, which actuate the ribbing needles-and a device for adjusting this dial to
the cylinder needles radially.
My improvements relate in the first place to an arrangement of Cams for actuating
the cylinder needles shewn in the Figs. 4 & 5.
The upthrow cams e, e, and the slur-cock, or depressing cam e¹, are of the usual
construction, but instead of the usual Cam guards, I cut away a portion a², a³, on each
side of the slur cock e', and in the spaces thus left, I fix to the Cam shell, two
guides, e, which extend either way, and serve to guide the needles either above or
Below the slur cock e¹, as the case may be.
It has been found in the course of practical experience, that the cylinder needles are
liable more or less frequently to catch on the point of the cam guard, and that, when
this takes place, it is usually the cause of injury to the work, and serious damage to
the machine. My improved cam above described, would also be liable to this
accident, although not to the extent experienced heretofore. To remove this defect I
attach to, or in front of the guides e², e³, switches, as shown in figure 6. A space is
recessed out in the back of the guides e², es, and into each of these spaces, a piece
or switch 62, 63, is fitted, so as to be free to slide between the guides e², e, and the
concave surface of the cam shell. To this sliding piece, a spring, 63, is fitted, room
being made for it, if need be, by cutting out a space to receive it in the Cam shell.
The function of this spring is to keep the sliding piece pressed forward beyond the
end, c, c, of the guide.
The point of the sliding piece, is so formed as to serve as a false point to the guide,
and to direct the butts of the needles properly into the channel formed between the
upthrow cams, et, es, and the guides e², e, & if a needle by any accidental circum-
stance should arrive at the switch, above the point, it will be directed upward &
pass over the guides, but if it should arrive just so high, as to strike the point,
the switch will give way & recede until the butt of the needle engages with the
true end c, e¹ of the guide, and is directed into the proper channel, and by this means
a blow that commonly is productive of serious damage to the machine, is rendered
quite harmless. I also make this switch in the form of a three pointed star, ³,
pivotted on the guide e³, as shown in Fig. 6, When the needle strikes one of the
points, the star turns and directs the needle above or below the guide, as the case
may be.
My improvements also comprise a method of adjusting the length of the stitches,
and thereby the stiffness of the knitted web.
Round the outside of the cam shell E, is fitted a ring L', Fig. 8, having a long
spiral slot, b, running partially round it, and marked with graduations, for facility of
adjustment. A handle is fixed to the ring for facility of moving it. The thumb-
screw, c³, which serves for clamping the slur cock, e', passes through this slot, b, and
is made a sliding fit in it.
By turning this ring round upon the Cam Shell in one direction, the slur cock is
raised, and in the other, it is depressed, and the length of the stitch, varied accordingly,
the graduations indicating the extent of the variation, and; as, practically the length
of this slot may be about 5 inches, and the amount of the inclination (that is to say, of
the range of motion of the slur cock), may be "it is evident that great exactitude of
adjustment may be obtained.
By this improvement, I have completely overcome the difficulty, which has hitherto
existed, and am able to knit several pairs of stockings to uniform length and gauge.
My invention includes a method for adjusting the dial to the cylinder radially.
The under side of the dial L is provided with a lug, 1, in the usual manner.
An arm C, extends up inside the cylinder, widened out at its upper part, so as to
engage with the lug on the dial. This arm is fixed rigidly to the under side of the
body of the machine at c¹. The body, A, is formed with a ledge or flange, and two
lugs k, k, in the usual manner, but the lugs are made with slots instead of round.

page_text: holes where the screws that hold down the cylinder go through, so that by partially
slackening the screws, the Cylinder may be turned round through an arc of sufficient
extent to allow of the necessary radial adjustment of the Cylinder to the Dial. I am
aware that it is not novel to hold the Dial stationary by a connection from some part
of the machine outside the cylinder, and while the cylinder is adjusted to it radially,
this arrangement being comprised in a patent granted to H. J. Griswold, No. 5048 in
the year 1880. But my improvement is confined to extending an arm, rigidly fixed
to the body of the machine, up inside the cylinder, so as to engage with the Dial from
within; the work being allowed to pass over the arm, and between it and the lug on
the Dial.
My invention also includes an improved form of needle for use in the machine, and
an improvement in the form of the needle bed, to enable the improved needle to be
used.
The needles used in Stocking Knitters are almost always made of steel wire. The
end or tail is bent in the form shewn at a in Fig. 14, and the back side of the shank
& tail, a', forms a straight line from end to end. By means of the butt or projection 16,
which engages with the cams as seen in Fig. 1, the needle is actuated.
The tail, serves to stendy the needles in the groove, and to make them wear
longer. My improvement consists in carrying the bend of the tail back beyond the
straight line of the back of the shank of the needle, as shewn at e Fig. 15 and. 16.
By this means the needles are made far more steady in their grooves, and their
durability is much increased.
My improvement in the construction of the needle bed (whether Cylinder or Dial)
consists in making the grooves shaped as shewn at, o, in Figs. 1 & 2, that portion of
each groove through which the tail of cach needle travels, being made as much deeper
than the rest, o, of the grooves, as the bend of the tail e, extends beyond the line of
the back of the shank of the needle.
In Hosiery frames, needles soldered into steel Jacks, or platines, as shewn in Fig. 14,
are in common use. But my improvement is confined to the wire needles almost
universally employed in Stocking Knitters. This part of my invention applies as well
to the needles & needle beds of straight knitters, as to Circular Knitters, and also to
the Dials and Dial needles of Circular Knitters. Although I prefer the form of
needle shewn in Fig. 15. I include in my invention, other forms of needle,
provided the bend of the needle tail is carried beyond the line of the back of the
shank, such for instance as are shewn in Fig. 16.
I also include an improvement for the purpose of transferring to a Circular Knitting
Machine, work that has already been knitted on some other circular or other Knitting
Machine, as for instance :-ribbed Tops or Cuffs.
My improved Transferrer which is shewn in Figs. 12 & 13, is made in the form of a
Cylinder, one end of which is furnished with grooves, p, into which quills, q, are fixed.
The diameter of the transferrer and the number & position of the quills, is such, that
each quill corresponds to & will partly cover a needle of the machine in connection
with which it is to be used.
The Transferrer is divided lengthways into two or more parts or segments, r, s,
one of which must be large enough to cover all the needles which are at one time
engaged with the Cams of the Knitting Machine. The segments are by preference
clamped together in some convenient manner for instance by means of a ring t which
can be slipped over the parts as shown in Fig. 12.
The process by which a ribbed top or cuff is transferred to a circular knitter (as
for instance to a Griswold stocking knitter of ordinary construction) is as follows.
The parts of the transferrer having been clamped together the ribbed top already
knitted on another machine is run on to it in the usual nianner. The upthrow cam or
cams of the knitter to which it is to be transferred are then put out of action which in
my improved knitter is done by securing the yarn carrier temporarily midway between
the upthrow pins y y. All the needles are now in one plane except those which are
depressed by the cams. The transferrer is then applied to the machine in such a

page_text: manner that all the depressed needles will be comprised under one of the segments
and that each needle which is not depressed will be covered by the corresponding quill
of the transferrer. The loops of the work are then pushed from the transferrer on to
those needles that are actually covered by quills. The clamp is then removed & the
segment or segments which do not lie over the depressed needles are taken away leaving
the loops that were on the quills on the corresponding needles of the knitter. A partial
revolution is then given to the machine which lifts up the previously depressed needles
into a position such that they also are covered by the quills of the remaining segment
of the transferrer, & the remaining loops of the work are transferred to the machine.
This segment is then removed leaving the ribbed top or cuff transferred to the knitter
ready for completing the stocking. A circular transferrer is described & shown in
the specification of a patent granted to H. J. Griswold No. 2669 of 1879 but this it is
well known can only be used for transferring work to a Circular Knitting Machine
which is specially constructed for the purpose so that the needles can all be brought
into one plane & held there while the top is being transferred as is described in that
patent. My object however is to produce a transferrer that can be used with the
ordinary circular knitters in general use.
It will be noticed that by my transferrer all the loops are not transferred to the
needles simultaneously as described & claimed in the said specification No. 2669
of 1879.
My invention comprises a web-holding apparatus for holding down the work during
the course of knitting. Instead of the usual dial & needles I substitute a dial u Fig. 9
& fitted with jacks or web-holders formed of thin metal of suitable shape &
provided with butts we which enter into the groove of a cam X Fig. 10 which takes the
place of the usual cam cap. This eam is driven from the ribbing arm by the pin &
is timed to closely follow the main cams Fig. 4. Its form is such that the jacks are
thrust out between the needles just previous to their being raised by the upthrows e
so as to prevent the web being carried up by the upward motion of the needles and
are withdrawn as the needles are depressed so as not to interfere with the formation of
the stitches. The number of web-holders may be such as to enter between each needle
or less frequently.
In place of using the webholding device above described I sometimes use a holding
down device Fig. 9 formed of an arm Y carrying a wheel y which runs upon the
edge of the web just knitted & serves to hold it down. The arm Y is attached to &
driven by the ribbing arm I & is so placed in reference to the main cams that it holds
down the work as described above. The means used for adjusting the height of the
dial is also available for regulating the height of the webholder.
In knitting flat-web or in forming the heels & toes of stockings, the cams may be so
shaped as to thrust out the jacks over both of the upthrows of the machine, or there
may be two wheels so placed as to cover both upthrows or I may make the web
holding device reversible to operate in conjunction with that particular upthrow that is
for the moment in use.
.
The cylinders of my knitting machines may be made of steel in the following
manner: a bar of steel is employed of breadth sufficient for the depth of the cylinder
& length sufficient for the circumference. This bar is bent round & the ends brought
together as closely as possible. A saw cut is run through the joint to make a smooth
face on each end. The two clean surfaces are brought together & brazed or soldered,
after which the cylinder is annealed & finished in the usual manner.
Having now described my improvements in hosiery machinery & shewn how they
are to be carried out I wish it to be understood that what I claim as my invention is
First. In circular or straight knitting machines the needles of which may be lifted
out of action the guides (ees) in combination with the slur cock (e¹) substantially in
the manner & for the purpose described.
Second. In straight or circular knitting machines the needles of which may be
lifted out of action automatic switches for the purpose of directing the needles either
above or below the slur cock substantially as described.

page_text: Third. In circular knitting machines a slotted ring (L' Fig. 8) for accurately
adjusting the length of the stitches substantially as described.
Fourth. The device for adjusting the cylinder to the dial, radially, substantially as
described.
:
Fifth. A circular transferring device made in two or more segments substantially in
the manner & for the purpose described.
Sixth. A device supported from the ribbing arm, in place of the ribbing attachment,
for holding down plain web while being knitted, substantially as described.
Seventh. A knitting machine needle the bend of the tail of which is carried back
beyond the straight line of the back of the shank substantially in the manner & for
the purpose described.
Eighth. A knitting machine needle bed or cylinder having its grooves deeper in
one part than another for use in combination with needles the bend of the tails of
which are carried back beyond the straight line of the back of the shanks substantially
in the manner & for the purpose described.
Ninth. A knitting machine cylinder made in the manner described.
Tenth. The general construction and combination of the circular knitting machine
substantially as herein set forth.