Improvements in Woven Fabrics and Looms for the Production thereof.
Year: 1894

page_text: Date of Application, 3rd July, 1894-Accepted, 4th Aug., 1894
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Woven Fabrics and Looms for the Production
thereof.
We, WALTER GLEN CONNELL, Weaver, of 1336 Chestnut Street and JOHN
HEWETSON LORIMER, Manufacturer, of 201 East Chelten Avenue, Germantown,
both of Philadelphia, in the County of Philadelphia, State of Pennsylvania,
United States of America, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in
what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement :-
The invention embraces a loom for automatically weaving a fabric, wherein the
body of the fabric is woven with warp and weft in any of the ordinary methods,
and the design is worked into the warp and weft by means of additional filling
figuring threads, which are bound in by the body threads of the fabric and formed
with, what may be termed, sectional shots in the process of weaving; that is to
say, the figuring filling threads are laid into the fabric in a more or less zig zag
manner during the process of weaving and the length of the said filling figuring
threads which constitutes the design and lies parallel with or to the weft threads
at any place in the fabric, is only a portion of the full width of the fabric being
woven, and in some cases constitutes an exceedingly small portion thereof as the
design may dictate. The invention also embraces the fabric produced by a loom
of the character described.
This new woven fabric is one in which the pattern and color effects are produced
by an additional filling thread independent of the ordinary warp and weft threads
of the weave.
This additional filling thread is introduced during the act of
weaving and is bound into the fabric by the warp threads.
In one piece of fabric an indefinite number of these independent filling threads
may be introduced and each of these threads may be carried from one part of the
fabric to another, so that an indefinite variety of color and pattern effects may be
produced in any piece of fabric. The filling threads may, if desired, compose both
the ground and pattern of the fabric.
The ordinary warp and weft threads are utilized for the purpose of forming a
body or structure into which the filling figuring threads are bound and they do not
form any part of the ordinary color or pattern effect. In one form of the fabric
however the ordinary weave of the warp and weft may be left as the ground, and
the filling threads which produce the pattern may be introduced over a portion of
the fabric only.
In carrying out the invention a woven fabric of any suitable structure is formed
of warp and weft threads, and during the act of weaving one or more coloring
filling threads independent of the warp and weft threads are introduced and bound
into the fabric by the warps during the formation of the fabric. As these filling
threads are introduced they may be moved laterally in either direction to a greater
or less extent within part of the sheds produced by the warp threads, while the
other sheds take in body weft threads, thus producing a shot of the filling threads
over a more or less sectional area of the fabric. Broadly considered it is immaterial
to the invention what the particular weave of the warp and weft may be as it may
consist of any of the usual or special weaves, such as tabby, twill, gauze or other
weave, so long as the warp and weft are combined with sectional filling figuring
threads which produce a pattern and are bound in by the warp and weft. As a
general rule in the production of these improved fabrics, the filling figuring threads

page_text: forming the sectional shots will be bound into the warp sheds at intervals, the
remaining sheds receiving body weft, that is to say, one or more sheds of the warp
will take in weft threads alone and the next shed a filling figuring thread forming
the sectional shot and so on. A loom for producing fabrics of this character is one
having among others the following parts.
Suitable warp beams or means to deliver the warp to the loom; a reciprocating
lay having upwardly extending fingers or reeds open at the top so as to enter the
warps at any point from below; suitable heddles adapted to control the warp
threads of the body fabric, one or more of which consists of parallel fingers
secured at one end to an arm or frame and unobstructed at the other end; a series
of figuring filling thread guides and supporting mechanism for laying the filling
figuring threads in the open sheds formed by the manipulation of the body warps,
and suitable jacquard mechanism for properly controlling the figuring filling thread
guides to insure the formation of the proper pattern in the finished fabric.
The minor details of construction of loom may be modified or changed in a large
variety of ways which will be self evident to any competent loom manufacturer,
but the essential features are the heddles adapted to form an open shed, thread
guides of any suitable construction in the rear of the heddles to introduce filling
figuring threads from the rear into the open shed, and jacquard mechanism to
move the thread guides at a variable lateral distance with reference to the warps
carried by the heddles.
The details of construction of the loom and the structure of the fabric itself
will be better understood by reference to the accompanying drawings, in which :-
Fig. is a sectional elevation of the loom on the line of Fig. 2;
Fig. 2 is a front elevation of the lower part of the loom with the forward part
of the frame broken away on the line y-y of Fig. 1;
Fig. 3 is a rear elevation of the jacquard mechanism ;
Fig. 4 is a plan view of the same;
Fig. 5 is a rear elevation of the filling figuring thread guides such as may be
employed;
Fig. 6 is a plan view of the same;
Fig. 7 is a sectional plan view of the locking mechanism for the bars holding
the guides for the filling figuring threads;
Fig. 8 is an end elevation of part of the mechanism adapted to reciprocate the
holders of the figuring filling thread guide bars;
Fig. 9 is a sectional elevation of the adjustable feature of the pitman for operating
the lay;
Figs. 10, 11 and 12 are sectional elevations showing the manipulation of the lay,
the heddles the filling figuring thread guides;
Fig. 13 is a rear elevation of one of the heddle needles or fingers such as may be
employed;
Fig. 14 is a side elevation of the same with the lower loop broken away;
Fig. 15 is a sectional elevation of one of the filling figuring thread guides such
as may be employed;
Fig. 16 is a similar illustration of a modification thereof;
Fig. 17 is a plan view of the structure shown in Fig. 16;
Fig. 18 is a sectional elevation of a suitable heddle and warp beam adapted to
this loom illustrating a modification in the construction of one of the heddles ;
Fig. 19 is a front elevation of the modified heddles shown in Fig. 18;
Fig. 20 is a similar view illustrating a modification in the construction of said
modified heddles;
Fig. 21 is a plan view illustrating a piece of the improved fabric;
Fig. 22 is a similar view of a portion thereof on a greatly enlarged scale showing
the structure of the fabric;
Fig. 23 is a transverse sectional view on the line ¹¹ of Fig. 22 showing the
chain of the weave;
Fig. 24 is a diagrammatic view illustrating various manipulatious of the filling

page_text: figuring threads and corresponding with the piece of fabric shown in Figs. 21
and 22;
Fig. 25 is a plan view illustrating a piece of the fabric having a gauze weave;
Fig. 26 is a similar view of a portion of the same on a greatly enlarged scale
showing the structure of the fabric illustrated in Fig. 25; and
Fig. 27 is a sectional view on the line 2-2 of Fig. 26 showing the chain of the
weave.
Referring first to Figs. 1 to 20 for the construction of the loom :
A is the main frame of the loom and may be constructed in any suitable manner.
B is the reciprocating lay and is pivoted at the lower part of the frame A in the
usual manner and has its upper end free to vibrate. The upper part of the lay
is a transverse beam B₁ constituting the shuttle race for guiding the shuttle 1.
Immediately below the shuttle race is a transverse vertical reciprocating beam B'
which carries a series of vertical reed fingers b, the upper ends of which are free
and preferably rounded to a point so that when they are projected upwardly
This beam B' with
through the warp they may readily pass through the same.
the reed finger bis reciprocated by means of a link H', bell crank H and cams G
on the shaft G. The shaft G is supported by the frame and is rotated at half the
The
velocity of the power crank shaft A³ from which it is driven by gearing g.
power shaft A is operated by a band pulley A, and reciprocates the lay by means
of the pitman A which is preferably adjustable as to its length in any suitable
manner one method of adjustment being shown in Fig. 9.
D' are two heddle beams and are respectively provided with a series of heddle
fingers D opening in opposite directions and having eyes formed in their free ends.
The construction of these heddle fingers to form the eyes is clearly indicated in
Figs. 13 and 14. The free ends of the fingers D are rounded as at d and a flattened
loopis secured over the ends of the fingers and brazed or soldered in position.
By these means the fingers may be moved vertically through the warps so as to
cross each other in making one of the sheds with the body warps, or may be moved
apart to form another or open shed to permit the figuring filling thread guides to
enter and properly lay the figuring filling threads in position to be taken up by the
comb fingers and beaten up with the body weft to the forward part of the machine.
The body warps are marked 1; they pass from the warp beans C, C through the
eyes of the heddle fingers and thence over the guide beam A'. The warp beams C, C
are provided with usual tension take up cords, weights and springs for properly
paying off the warp threads and permitting the proper movement of the heddles
((see Fig. 18).
The heddles are operated in any suitable manner, as by levers J, J' with which
they are connected by cords J. In the drawings the cords are shown extending
from one lever J' to the bar heddle, thence around the roller J' down to the lower
heddle and thence to the second lever J2 (see Fig. 2). In place of using both
heddles with fingers D one of the heddles may be formed of a transverse beam D³
having a series of saw notches D2 around which the warp threads I are drawn.
This kind of heddle may be used because the warps pass substantially vertically
from the warp beams to the heddles and then around it to the lay. One warp lies
in each saw cut; this is shown in Figs. 18 and 19. This modified heddle may be
constructed as shown in Fig. 20 in which the bar D³ is provided with a series of
pins D' held in place and separated by a cord D³ wrapped upon the bar D³.
In some cases, as when weaving a ground of twill fabric, there will be three or
more heddles but in any case there can only be one of the improved notched
heddles of the character shown in Figs. 18, 19 and 20 employed in the combination.
It is evident however that any number of heddles may be used according to the
particular character of the body weave required.
Rindicates the fabric in its woven condition as it is drawn over the guide
beam A and wound upon the take up rollers A2 which are constructed in any of
the ordinary ways common to looms in general. The picker staff 1' for throwing
the shuttle I may be of the usual construction and may be operated by a strap i

page_text: connected with a lever 1' operated in turn by a strap I' connected with a lever or
treadle I' which is thrown down by the cam R. A spring I returns the picker
staff after it has been thrown by the mechanism above described. Each picker
staff is provided with a similar mechanism and they are so arranged that they
operate alternately in the usual manner.
E is a reciprocating or vibrating bar frame located in the rear of the heddles
and adapted to be moved to and from them. In the drawings this bar frame is
shown composed of two depending bar pieces united by a cross piece at the top and
pivoted as at to the upper portions of the sides of the main frame A. The bar
frame however may be of any other convenient construction. The bar frame is
provided with a series of guides, shown in the drawings in the depending side
pieces, in which bars E' are supported and guided with freedom of longitudinal
movement. The bars E' thus carried by the bar frame E² are located in the rear
of the heddles, and, being movable longitudinally in the vibrating bar frame, may
thus be moved either laterally or longitudinally with reference to the warps. The
bars E are shown provided with adjustable guides E for the filling figuring
threads 2. These guides E project from the bars E' toward the lay, and the
figuring filling threads 2 extend through the eyes of the guides to the body of the
fabric. The filling figuring threads extend backward from the guides toward
the rear of the loom and pass about the guide rods F2 thence over guide beams F",
thence through take up guides of any suitable construction, to the spools or
supports F which are carried upon the framework at the rear of the loom. The
take up guide preferably consist of pivoted counter weighted wires, as shown,
which act automatically to take up any slack in the filling figuring threads caused
by the movement of the guides E. Instead of employing a series of separate
adjustable guides E upon the bars E' each bar may be provided with a series of
eyes along its length or the guides may be otherwise formed. The bar frame E²
is drawn backward by means of a spring Q aud is thrown forward by means of a
small bell crank E, a strap e, a lever E, and a cam el secured to the shaft G. It
will thus be seen that the bar E reciprocates or oscillates for each two recipro-
cations of the lay. It is apparent that instead of a pivoted rocking bar frame a
sliding bar frame may be employed. The filling figuring thread guides E are
sujustably clamped upon the bars E' by means of screws Es which are clearly
shown in Figs. 15, 16 and 17. The guides may be made as shown in Fig. 15 or as
indicated in Figs. 16 and 17. In the former case the guides are provided with
enlarged eyes upon their extremities which do not pass over the reed fingers bat
any time, while in the latter case the guides are provided with guiding eyes e upon
their shanks and with flattened eyes upon their extremities so that reed fingers
may extend back of the guides E and remain up while being drawn forward over
the eyes.
This latter construction makes the action of the recd fingers somewhat more
positive in picking up the filling figuring threads from the guides E to suit any
particular pattern or location of the figuring effect upon the body of the fabric.
The guides E may be properly adjusted upon the several bars E'.
The bars E' are operated by means of a jacquard mechanism such as that shown
in Figs. 3 and 4. One end of each bar is connected to the lower end of the
lever pivoted to an extension of the bar frame E2. Fig. 5 when placed
immediately below Fig. 3 will give a clear illustration of the connection between
the bars E' and the jacquard mechanism L. The upper ends of the levers E³ are
connected by links n with the lifter bars N of the jacquard which has four of said
lifter bars guided in suitable guides in a frame N'. This frame N' is shown carried
on the cross piece of the bar frame E². A spring S causes the levers E³ to be
returned to their original positions wben unacted upon by the jacquard mechanism
so as to normally return the bars E' to the left when looking at Fig. 5 or from
the rear of the loom.
A frame M4 carries four rows of needles adapted respectively to act upon the
four litter bars N.
There are preferably as many rows of needles as there are

page_text: bars E'. Each row of needles M contains a series of needles of different lengths
as is indicated in dotted lines in Fig. 4 and the cards L' which operate the needles
have perforations corresponding to every needle of the four sets except where
such perforations are omitted or closed for the purpose of moving the needles and
the corresponding lifter bars.
M is a reciprocating frame carried and guided on the cross piece on the bar
frame E. L' is a card operating cylinder carried by the frame M¹ and
reciprocating with it.
Referring to Fig. 4 it is evident that with a given reciprocation of the frame M¹
which carries the cylinder L' and the cards L' the needles which correspond with
the uncut portions of the card will be projected backward. In Fig. 4 four of the
needles are shown as pushed back to different distances and this is controlled by
the fact that with a given movement of the cylinder the distance the needle will
be pushed back will be the total distance the cylinder is moved after reaching the
longest needle less the difference between the length of the needle moved and
the longest needle. The proper cutting of the cards will cause the proper
selection of any needle and will consequently impart the desired throw to either
one of the lifter bars M with a corresponding lateral throw to the respective guide
bars E. The cards L are guided over cylinders F³ carried upon the frame M'
and may be supported in any usual manner beyond these cylinders as is customary
in jacquard mechanism where a large number of cards is employed. If the
pattern is small, the cards may hang straight down in a loop. The cylinder L' is
maintained in position by a spring dog L which permits the head to be turned
under the action of the hooks m on each backward movement of the cylinder and
its frame M. Ordinarily the lower hook m will alone be in operative position to
act upon the cylinder but by lowering the lower hook as well as the upper hook
the upper hook may be alone in position and in that case the pattern cards will
be moved in the opposite direction.
The frame M' is reciprocated by cables m' extending in opposite directions and
connected to two pulleys M2 having smaller diameters to which are connected
straps M³ extending down to the treadles J. By this mechanism the movement
of the treadles J causes the jacquard mechanism to be operated to set a new
position for the guides E carried by the bars E' when the heddles are moved
furthest apart or at any time when the filling figuring threads may be set in their
new positions. Immediately after the jacquard is moved to set the bars E' the
cam e operates the lever E' and through the mechanism herein before described,
shown in Fig. 8, throws the bar frame E2 forward or toward the heddle bars so
as to bring the ends of the guides E close to the reed fingers of the lay as indicated
in Fig. 1 and also in Figs. 10 and 12 so that when the reed fingers rise under the
action of the cams G' they will pass up close to the ends of the guide. The
action of the treadles or levers .12 is to cause the frame M' to be reciprocated back
and forth at stated intervals.
When the frame M' is moved to the left as indicated in Fig. 3 it strikes a
slide bar O arranged to operate a lever O' against the action of a spring o and
this lever operates a trip cam P2 carried in the free end of the bar frame E. This
stop of on the har limits the right hand movenient of the bar so that the last
portion of the movement of the frame M' alone acts upon the bar O.
P.
The several bars E' are provided with racks P' corresponding to saw teeth and
these are locked in position by a locking frame P having a tooth A spring pl
keeps the tooth p in contact with the teeth of the rack and locks the bar E
against the return movement when a card cylinder is moving away from the
cylinders to permit the next card to return into operative position. When the
frame M moves to the left sufficiently to strike the bar O it causes the cam bar P²
to be projected to the right so that its cam surface ³ trips the locking frame P
and liberates the teeth of the rack P. This tripping of the locking frame P
liberates the bar E' so that the spring S may come into play and move the bars to
the left (Fig. 6) until the lifter bars N are arrested by coming in contact with any

page_text: needle N which may be pushed back under the action of the card. This locking
mechanism it will thus be seen prevents the action of the spring S until after the
cards have been reset and have again operated upon the needles. Furthermore it
permits the bars E' to be locked in position for laying in the figuring filling threads
without reference to further movements of the jacquard mechanism, so that the
manipulation of the jacquard for setting a new card may take place over the period
required for the action of the lay and for the oscillation or vibration of the bar
frame. It gives a longer period for the jacquard to reset itself than would be
permitted in case the jacquard itself was required to hold the bars E' in their
operative positions.
Instead of the jacquard mechanism of the particular construction described any
other suitable jacquard mechanism capable of imparting lateral movements of
variable extent to the figuring filling thread guides may be employed without
departing from the invention.
The operation of the loom will now be clearly understood. The order of
movements may be stated as follows.
Supposing the parts to be in the positions shown in Fig. 1 the shuttle I is thrown
and the lay is then moved backward to beat back the weft thread and the several
figuring filling threads between the hinder warps. The reed fingers are then
lowered, the bar frame is moved back, the heddle fingers are closed to form a
second shed with the warps 1, the lay is then moved forward toward the heddle,
the reed fingers are moved upward, a shuttle is then shot in the reverse direction
and the lay is then moved towards the solid fabric R to beat back the weft threads.
During this operation the jacquard has brought a new card into play which has
selected certain needles and through them has moved the guide bars El to bring
the guides into proper position for laying in the next portions or sectional shots
of the figuring filling threads 2. The reed fingers are then drawn down, the lay is
returned to the position shown in Fig. 1. The heddles are separated to form an
open shed at the rear, the bar frames moved toward the heddles the reed fingers
are then raised to the position shown in Fig. 1. The shuttle is then shot, the lay
moved forward toward the solid fabric to beat back the sectional figuring filling
threads and the weft threads. These operations are repeated.
The loom may be operated in any other manner desired so long as it permits the
introduction of the seccional shots of the figuring filling threads. The heddles
may be operated as in any ordinary loom as in a common hand loom jack frame or
otherwise.
It is evident that the details of construction may be modified in various ways
without departing from the principles of the invention which is therefore not
limited to the particular construction of loom here showu.
Referring now to the fabric produced by a loom of this general character and
shown particularly in Figs. 21 to 24 inclusive :
A are the warp threads. B3 are the weft threads and C1, C2, C3, C4 are the
filling figuring threads, of which any number are used, and which may be of any
colors desired. The warps and wefts are woven together in the usual manner, the
sheds being formed by the lifting of alternate series of the warps and the wefts
shot through the successive sheds. Into a portion of the shed so formed the filling
figuring threads C1, C2 etc., are introduced, and these threads are carried laterally a
greater or less distance between the two separated layers of warps which form the
shed so that when the shed is changed by the lowering of one set of the warps and the
raising of the other the filling figuring threads C, C etc., are bound in by the warps,
each passing successively over and under alternate warps and extending laterally
across the fabric a distance corresponding to the extent of their lateral movement
within the shed. The next shed receives only the weft thread of the body fabric
and then alter the weft is bound in, a shed similar to the first is formed. In this
new shed thus formed by the raising and lowering of the warps the filling threads
are introduced similarly to the first instance by being carried laterally in either
direction such distance as may be desired, and when the next alternate shed is

page_text: formed the filling threads are again bound in by the alternate warp threads. With
the formation of each shed the weft B3 is thrown and the wefts thus pass over and
under the alternate warps in the usual manner and form the body of the structure.
The filling figuring threads C1, C2 etc., are introduced in each alternate shed only
in the preferred construction, but the invention is not confined to that. method as
they may be introduced in different orders of the sheds, but whenever the filling
figuring threads are introduced they will always pass over and under the same warps
in successive correspondingly located sheds in the length of the fabric.
As the filling figuring threads C', C² etc. may be moved laterally in each shot to
any extent desired they may be bound into the fabric over a greater or less sectional
width varying in effect from the distance between two adjacent warps to the entire
width of the fabric.
With a series of these threads each one may be introduced in any shot for a
sectional portion of the width the different threads succeeding each other in
successive sections entirely across the fabric and forming a fabric in which the
pattern and color effects are produced by a series of successive filling figuring
threads each extending part of the distance only across the entire width of the
fabric. This construction of the fabric is clearly shown in Fig. 22. The first
filling figuring thread C' is shown in the second shot carried laterally over and
under warps 12 to 16; the next filling thread C2 is carried under and over
warps 8 to 12; the next thread C³ under and over warps 4 to 8, while the filling
threads C is carried under and over 1 to 4. A weft thread B³ accompanies the
figuring threads C', C, C³ etc. when being bound in only the weft thread 133 passes
entirely across the fabric. In the next shot a body weft B³ alone is thrown, the
figuring threads C1, C2, etc. extending in the direction of the warp threads A, but
above the weft B³. In the next succeeding or fourth shot the thread C₁ is shown
carried back under and over 1 to 6; the threads C3 pass back under and over 4
to 10; the thread C under and over 8 to 14 and the threads C' under and over 12
to 18 and so on throughout the fabric. In any shot the threads C¹, C, etc. form
successive sections of the pattern, any one of which may be of greater or less
extent than the others according to the extent of their lateral movement in each
shot. In the formation of the fabric shown in Fig. 2, at the second shot shown in
the sheds formed by the lifting of warp threads 2, 4, 6, 8. 10 etc. the thread C' was
carried laterally between the warps 12 to 16, the thread C² between warps 8 to 12,
the thread C3 between warps 4 to 8 and the threads C between warps 1 to 4 so
that when the weft B3 was thrown and the shed changed by the lowering
of the warps 2, 4, 6, 8, 10 etc. and the elevation of the warps 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11 etc.
the threads C¹, C³, C³ C' were bound into the fabric and formed successive
sections of the pattern as is shown in the drawing. The next shed formed
by reversing the warp threads receives the weft thread B3 on the return
shot alone, the figuring filling threads C1, C2 etc. lying substantially parallel to the
warps A and preferably above the weft thread when the latter is thrown alone.
In the next shed formed, the thread C is moved back between the warps 1 to 6,
the thread C³ between the warps 4 to 10, the threads C² between the warps 8 and 14
and the threads C' between the warps 12 and 18 so that when the next succeeding
shed is formed they are bound in by the warps and so on in the formation of the
successive sheds in the weaving of the fabric. As the threads C, C² etc. are
introduced from the rear into open sheds they will always occupy the same relative
position above or below the same warp thread wherever they are introduced.
As these filling threads may be manipulated independently one of the other not
only may the extent to which any thread is bound in be varied, but each thread
may be caused to traverse one part of the fabric to another in successive shots, and
the different threads may be crossed so that the color effects may be greatly varied.
In the diagrammatic view Fig. 24 are illustrated some of the ways in which these
different filling threads may be manipulated showing how one thread may traverse
from one part of the fabric to another and how different threads may be crossed.
In this view the different kinds of lines are intended to indicate different threads

page_text: having one or more different colors or characteristics, and the warp and weft
threads are omitted.
If desired one or more of the filling threads may be used to form the ground of
the pattern the other threads producing the color or figure effects. Thus in
Fig. 21 the parts marked a may compose the ground being formed with filling
threads of one color, while the parts marked b, c, d² may compose the pattern.
This is of course a matter of fancy in the construction of the fabric and depends
upon the extent or area over which filling threads of one color are introduced.
If desired the filling threads may be omitted in portions of the fabric as is
illustrated in the upper portion of Fig. 21. The ordinary woven fabric composed
of the warp and weft threads then forms the ground ¹ of any well known plain,
twilled or gauze weave and the pattern is produced by the introduction of the filling
threads over a portion of its arca. By this means a fabric suitable for
upholstering purposes, curtains, dress goods, etc. may be produced. The solid
fabric may of course be used for any purpose and is particularly adapted for
carpets, rugs etc.
In the case of plain or tabby ground the sectional figuring threads will come in
alternate sheds, in twilled grounds they will come in every third shed; in gauze
grounds they will come in every other shed and so on according to the ground or
body weave employed.
In Figs. 25, 26 and 27 the invention is shown as applied to a gauze woven fabric.
The warp threads A in this fabric was arranged in pairs and are crossed in the
weave in the manner well known in the art. B3 are the weft threads which are
interwoven with the crossed warps in the usual manner. C, C are two of the
independent filling figuring threads. The warps and wefts are woven together in
the usual manner in gauze weaving and the filling figuring threads C1, C2 etc. are
introduced in the act of weaving into the open shed and lie between the crossed
parts of the warp thread. As in the case of the plain woven fabric shown in
Figs. 21 to 24 it will be seen that these threads may be carried laterally through
the open sheds for a greater or less extent, and that a series of independent or
filling figuring threads may be introduced in the same shed each extending across
a section thereof only. In the fabric shown the weft threads B³ enter the cross
sheds and form the full gauze or half twist and the filling figuring threads enter the
open shed and form a half gauze or quarter twist for a section or for such lateral
distance as each filling figuring thread may be carried through the shed.
omitting the filling figuring threads from a portion of the fabric as shown at C
in Fig. 26 the ordinary body or open gauze weave is exposed and the fabric may
thus be formed with this gauze body and a small pattern formed by the filling
threads upon it.
By
The invention has been particularly described as applied to plain and gauze
woven fabrics, in order that the same may be more easily understood by others;
but it is to be understood that so far as the fabric is concerned the invention
includes any woven fabric in which the color and pattern effects are produced
by filling figuring threads independent of the weft lying in part of the sheds for a
distance less than the width of the fabric and always passing over and under the
same warps in successive correspondingly located sheds in any part of the fabric.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what
we claim is :-
First. The loom, for weaving fabrics of the character specified, embracing
suitable thread guides located in the rear of heddles for introducing filling figuring
threads into an open shed, and suitable jacquard mechanism for moving the thread
guides a variable lateral distance.
Second. The combination with thread guides having a variable lateral
movement, of devices to move them to and from the heddles."
Third. The vibrating lay movable to and from the heddles and having a series

page_text: of vertically movable reed fingers provided with free ends acting in conjunction
with one or more thread guides having a variable lateral movement.
Fourth. The locking and tripping devices for locking the laterally movable
thread guides after they have been operated and releasing them after the pattern
mechanism has been reset.
Fifth. The special heddle fingers formed of a flattened bar with an elongated
eye extending in the width of the bar.
Sixth. The jacquard mechanism for imparting the variable lateral movements
to the filling figuring thread guides.
Seventh. The woven fabric in which color and pattern effects are produced by
filling figuring threads independent of the wefts lying in part of the sheds
for a distance less than the width of the fabric and always passing over and under
the same warps in successive correspondingly located sheds in any part of the
fabric.
Dated this 7th day of June 1891
WALTER GLEN CONNELL.
JOHN HEWETSON LORIMER.
Haseltine, Lake & Co.,
45, Southampton Buildings, London, W.C., Agents for the Applicants.