An Improvement in Weaving "Fancy" or Figured Fabrics and in Apparatus Employed therefor.
Year: 1889

page_text: Date of Application, 24th Jan., 1889
Complete Specification Left, 24th Oct., 1889-Accepted, 30th Nov., 1889
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
An Improvement in Weaving "Fancy" or Figured Fabrics and in
Apparatus Employed therefor.
1 JOHN LEWIS BYROM of Slackcote Mills, Delph near Oldham in the County of
York Woollen Manufacturer do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as
follows:-
:-
This invention relates principally to the production of "fancy" or figured borders
to fabrics wherein the effects are required to be produced by weft threads which are
not to be woven into the main or central part of the fabric.
The object of my invention is to avoid a great proportion of the waste occasioned
by weaving such fabrics in the ordinary loom and cutting or shearing away the
superfluous weft from the cloth.
My invention consists in severing the weft from the cop in the shuttle say about
an inch from the inner edge of each of the borders after the shuttle has passed so
far from the shed of the first border, that the loose end of weft remaining attached
to the cop is of such a length that it can be carried across the central part of the
fabric where it is not required, and laid in the shed of the opposite border.
I will be evident that my invention is also applicable to the production of effects
(by weft threads) required only at wide intervals apart across the piece at other parts
than on the borders, the object being the same; namely to prevent the waste necessi-
tated by floating considerable lengths of useless and superfluous weft across the back
of the fabric.
The apparatus which I have invented for this purpose consists of a pair of cutting
levers or jaws acting as scissors mounted near to the inside edge of each border (or
at other desired points) and carried at the end of a lever or arm on a rocking
shaft.
.
The lower jaw is fixed at about right angles to the said lever or arm and the
upper jaw is pivotted to the lower one and is prolonged for a short distance beyond
the pivot, this end being attached by a link provided with a slotted and adjustable
end. This link swings at its upper end on a suitable bar which is so situated with
regard to the above rocking shaft that when the jaws or scissors are withdrawn
from the cloth they are separated as the end of the arm or lever is raised and when
moved forwards into the "shed" they will close together and sever the weft thread,
which passes between them.
The end of the link which closes the upper jaw is as above described, slotted.
This will allow the cutters or scissors to be withdrawn slightly before opening and a
spring on the back part of the scissors is provided to hold the weft in order
to retain the same and prevent it from springing back, (as soon as it has been
severed).
The reed thon beats up and the cutters or scissors are at the same time opened
and withdrawn; the lower jaw is made broader than the upper one and very
smooth at its end so that there will be no possibility of injuring the cloth.
I prefer to actuate the rocking shaft (which works the cutters or scissors) from
the jacquard machine in the following manner :
Upon the shaft which actuates the jacquard machine or on a suitable shaft driven
thereby or from the crank shaft of the loom I mount loosely a tappet consisting of a
disc which carries a crank pin and bowl. This disc is formed with a grooved boss
so that it can be moved into or out of gear with a revolving clutch on the same
shaft by means of a forked lever linked to a crank or excentric worked by a wheel
or pulley or its equivalent connected to a pair of hooks in the jacquard machine, so
that when one of these hooks is lifted, it will turn the crank or excentric and move

page_text: the link and lever forwards and put the disc above named into gear with the clutch.
This motion at the same time moves the crank pin or bowl thereon into position to
come in contact with one end of a lever carried by a suitable bracket fixed on the top
cross rail of the loom. The other end of this last named lever is connected by a link
to an arni or lever on the rocking shaft above described, and it is also held down by
a spring which keeps the cutters or scissors away from the cloth when out of action.
As soon however as the tappet is put into gear with the revolving clutch it depresses
the end of the connecting lever overcoming the said spring and raises the other
end, thereby rocking the shaft and causing the cutters to act as before described.
When the cutters are no longer required the hook of the jacquard machine is
raised, which will bring back the crank or excentric and move the tappet out of gear
with the clutch.
The shuttle which carries the weft which is to be cut in this manner is (by
preference) made with an eye or hole at its centre so that the same longth of weft
is cut at both sides of the loom which would not be the case if the shuttle eye
were near one end of the shuttle as usual.
I would remark in conclusion that the rocking shaft and the cutters or scissors
may be actuated by other mechanism than that herein described which will vary
according to the pattern or make of the loom to which my invention is to be
applied.
Dated this 21st day of January 1889.
GEORGE DAVIES,
4, St. Ann's Square, Manchester, Agent for the Applicant.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
An Improvement in Weaving "Fancy" or Figured Fabrics and in
Apparatus Employed therefor.
I JOHN LEWIS BYROM of Slackcote Mills Delph near Oldham in the County of
York Woollen Manufacturer do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in
what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement :-
This invention relates principally to the production of "fancy" or figured borders
to fabrics wherein the effects are required to be produced by weft threads which are
not to be woven into the main or central part of the fabric.
The object of my invention is to avoid a great proportion of the waste occasioned
by weaving such fabrics in the ordinary loom and cutting or shearing away the
superfluous weft from the cloth.
My invention consists in severing the weft from the cop in the shuttle say about
an inch from the inner edge of each of the borders after the shuttle has passed so far
from the shed of the first border, that the loose end of weft remaining attached to the
cop is of such a length that it can be carried across the central part of the fabric.
where it is not required, and laid in the shed of the opposite border.
It will be evident that my invention is also applicable to the production of effects
(by weft threads) required only at wide intervals apart across the piece, at other parts
than on the borders, the object being the same, namely to prevent the waste necessi-
tated by floating considerable lengths of useless and superfluous weft across the back,
of the fabric.
The apparatus which I have invented for this purpose will be readily understood
on reference to the accompanying drawings.
Fig. 1. being an elevation thereof showing the breast beam a the top cross rail b
and the shuttle race or slay c in section.
Fig. 2 is a front view of the mechanism for actuating the cutters or scissors and
Fig. 3. a detached sectional view about full size of the jaws of the scissors when
closed.
The said apparatus consists of a pair of cutting levers or jaws d, d' acting as

page_text: scissors mounted near to the inside edge of each border (or at other desired points)
and carried at the end of a lever or arin e on the rocking shaft f.
The lower jaw is fixed at about right angles to the said lever or arm e and the
upper jaw d is pivotted at a to the lower one and is prolonged for a short distance
beyond the pivot, this end being attached to a link ġ provided with a slotted and
adjustable end g'. This link g swings at its upper end on a suitable bar which is
so situated with regard to the above rocking shaft that when the jaws or scissors d, d¹
are withdrawn from the cloth they are separated as the end of the arm or lever e is
raised (as shown by the full lines on the drawing) and when moved forwards into
the "shed" they will close together and sever the weft thread which passes between
them as shown by the dotted lines Fig. 1.
The end g*, of the link g which closes the upper jaw d is as above described slotted.
This will allow the cutters or scissors to be withdrawn slightly before opening and a
spring on the back or lower part d of the scissors is provided to hold the weft it in
order to retain the saine and prevent it from springing back (as soon as it has been
severed) see detached section Fig. 3.
The reed & then beats up and the cutters or scissors d, d' are at the same time
opened and withdrawn; the lower jaw d' is made broader than the upper one and
very smooth at its end so that there will be no possibility of injuring the cloth.
I prefer to actuate the rocking shaft f (which works the cutters or scissors d d¹)
from the jacquard machine in the following manner.
On the shaft which actuates the jacquard machine (or on a suitable shaft driven
thereby or from the crank shaft of the loom) I mount loosely a tappet consisting of a
disc m which carries a crank pin or bowl n. This disc m is formed with a grooved
boss n³, so that it can be moved along pegs or pins o on a revolving clutch o' on the
same shaft by means of a forked lever p linked to a crank 9 (or excentric) worked
by a wheel or pulley r or its equivalent connected to hook or a pair of hooks in the
jacquard machine; the drawing shows the pulley connected by a strap 1 and
cord, to a hook not illustrated. Thus when one of the hooks is lifted it will pull
the cord, and strap and turn the crank 9 (or excentric) and move the link p¹
and lever p forwards and slide the disc m above named on the pegs o of the clutch o¹.
This motion at the same time moves the crank pin or bowl n thereon into position
to come in contact with one end of a lever s carried by a suitable bracket s¹ fixed on
the top cross rail 6 of the loom. The other end of this last named lever
connected by a link t to an arm or lever t¹.
This arm or lever t' may be fixed on the rocking shaft
it upon a separate shaft fx, which actuates the said shaft
link, as shown at Fig. 1.
is
but I prefer to mount
by the levers ƒ³, ƒ³, and
The shaft, which extends across the loom is out of the way of the weaver and
the shaft needs only to be as long as the bar h one of which is fixed above each
border of the cloth.
The outer end of the levers is also held down by a spring ³, which keeps the
cutters or scissors d, d' away from the cloth when out of action.
The inner end of the said lever a rests against the shaft l.
As soon however as the tappet m is slidden along the pegs o of the revolving
clutch o', it depresses the end of the connecting lever i overcoming the said spring
and raises the other end, thereby rocking the shafts fx and f and causing the
cutters d, d' to act as before described.
When the cutters are no longer required the hook of the jacquard machine is
released and the spring & will bring back the crank g or excentric and move the
tappet m out of the way of the lever s.
The shuttle which carries the weft which is to be cut in this manner is (by
preference) made with an eye or hole at its centre so that the same length of weft
is cut at both sides of the loom which would not be the case if the shuttle eye were
near one end of the shuttle as usual.
I would remark that the rocking shaft and the cutters or scissors d, d¹ may be
actuated by other means than that hereindescribed as such mechanism will vary

page_text: according to the pattern or make of the loom to which my invention is to be
applied.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed 1 declare that what 1
claim is :-
First. The improvement in weaving fancy or figured fabrics which consists in
severing the weft from the cop of the shuttle say about an inch from the inner edge
of each of the borders or figures after the shuttle has passed so far from the shed of
the first border or figure that the loose end of weft remaining attached to the cop can
be carried by the shuttle across that part of the fabric where it is not required and
laid in the shed of the opposite border or figure, substantially as and for the purposes
hereinbefore set forth and
Secondly. I claim the construction and use for such purpose of the cutting levers
or jaws suspended from a rocking shaft, and acting as a scissors and operated
substantially as herein before described and illustrated by the drawings annexed.
Dated this 23rd day of October 1889.
GEORGE DAVIES,
4, St. Ann's Square, Manchester, Agent for the Applicant.