IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES to be as follows:
Year: 1884

page_text: I, JULIUS GUTMANN of 89 Chancery Lane in the County of Middlesex, Engineer,
do hereby declare the nature of the said invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING
MACHINES to be as follows:-
"
These improvements relate chiefly to the provision of mechanism for feeding or
laying on two preliminary threads in front of each stitch of an ordinary or of a
tambour-crank-sewing machine (Tambourir kurbel-Nähmaschine) in such manner
that before each stitch the preliminary threads are crossed and then firmly sewn
together whence results a festoon stitch, (Ziernaht).
The mechanism for effecting such festoon stitching or sewing consists of a
hollow cylindrical sleeve fixed to the bottom of the head of the machine so as to
assume a vertical position thereunder. Through this sleeve the needle rod passes.
A band or chain pulley fitted loose on the cylindrical sleeve is driven from the
upper shaft of the machine when the machine is at work, by means of a band or
chain transmission, this pulley being twice the diameter of the pulley which drives
it, the result being that the latter must make two revolutions and consequently
the machine two sewing stitches for one revolution of the sleeve pulley.
Upon the sleeve below the sleeve pulley but connected therewith in any suitable
manner so that it may move therewith is provided a loose cam wheel having one
half of its circumference thicker than the other half.
°
Below the cylindrical sleeve, a grooved ring is fitted on the needle rod so as not
to be capable of turning thereon, therefore in the case of a tambour crank machine
when the crank is in motion such ring will be carried round with the needle rod.
On the other hand it is secured from performing the up and down motion of the
needle rod by means of a forked part which takes into the groove and is fixed to
the bottom of the cylindrical sleeve. On a part projecting from the grooved ring
are two thread carrying levers arranged so as to oscillate in the manner of a pair
of scizzors, their upper arms are drawn towards each other by a spiral spring and
friction rollers on the ends of these arms & are thus kept pressed against the
cam wheel. When this latter revolves the thick part of its edge forces the upper
arms of the thread carrying levers apart and in this way the lower arms of the
same are caused to work over each other like the blades of a pair of scizzors each
In the case of
one alternately changing its position with regard to the other.
tambour crank machines the two preliminary threads to be crossed by the operation
CD 077

page_text: of the two thread carrying levers are carried from above in a downward by a tube
which forms an inner needle rod, then laterally outwards through a long slot in
both needle rod parts to eyes formed in the lower ends of the lower lever arms.
The long slot in the needle rod tubes serves also as a recess for a spring which
prevents the grooved ring from turning on the outer needle rod. The whole of the
preliminary thread laying on mechanism turns with the needle rod whilst the
crank is in motion. Upon each stitch, made by the machine a fresh crossing of
the preliminary threads is effected by the action of the thread carrying levers
which crossing is firmly sewn together by the needle stitch. Of course the
arrangement described may be utilised with one thread carrying lever only for
laying on a single thread zigzag. By means of the mechanism here described
strings of pearls or beads may also be sewn down. When this is required to be
done the lower arms of the two thread carrying levers are each made in the form
of a tube, the strings of pearls or beads being carried through them instead of the
preliminary threads. By a suitable adjustment of the various parts of the
mechanism one of the levers only may be employed so that one pearl or bead
comes between each sewing stitch. With the two levers a pearl or bead may be
laid on each side of each stitch. In the case of tambour crank sewing machines
the strings of pearls are of course carried by the needle rod from above downwards,
and then to the laying on tubes which move with the crank.
The mechanism above described may be variously modified, and the thread
carrying levers or tubes caused to move at any suitable velocity around the needle
rod either in a right or left hand direction through the ordinary crank motion of a
Bonnaz embroidery machine.

page_text: ">
I, JULIUS GUTMANN of Berlin in the German Empire do hereby declare the
nature of said invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES and in what
manner the same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement :—
These improvements relate chiefly to the provision of mechanism for feeding or
laying on two preliminary threads in front of each stitch of an ordinary or of a
tambour crank sewing machine (tambourir-kurbel-nähmaschine) in such manner
that in front of each stitch the preliminary threads are crossed and then firmly
sewn together whence results a lock or festoon stitch, (ziernaht).
Referring to the accompanying sheet of drawings:-
Figs. 1 and 2 illustrate the lock stitch or festoon stitch sewing when effected by
tambour stitch and double stitch.
Figs. 3, 4 and 5 illustrate the mechanism for effecting such lock or festoon
sewing. Similarly to that already shewn in the German patent No 23932 a hollow
cylindrical sleeve a is fixed to the bottom of the head of the machine so as to
assume a vertical position thereunder and through which the needle rod a¹ passes.
A band or chain pulley b fitted loose on the cylindrical sleeve a is driven from the
upper shaft A of the machine by band or chain transmission when the machine is
at work, this pulley b being twice the diameter of the pulley c which drives it, the
result being that the latter must make two revolutions and consequently the
machine two sewing stitches for one revolution of the sleeve pulley b.
Upon the cylindrical sleeve a below the sleeve pulley b but connected therewith
in any suitable manner so that it may move therewith is provided a loose cam
wheel d having one half of its circumference thicker than the other half.
Below the cylindrical sleeve a, is a grooved ring e which is fixed on the needle
rod a¹ so as not to turn thereon, therefore in the case of a tambour crank machine
when the crank is in motion it will be carried round with the same; it is secured
from performing the up and down motion of the needle rod a¹ by means of a fork
which takes into the groove and is fixed to the lower part of the cylindrical
sleeve a.
On a part projecting from the grooved ring e are arranged two thread
carrying levers g, g¹, so as to oscillate in the manner of a pair of scizzors. The
upper arms of these two levers g, g¹ are drawn towards each other by a spiral
spring h, and the friction rollers i, i, on the ends of these arms are thus kept
pressed against the cam wheel d. When this latter revolves the thick part of its
edge forces the upper arms of the thread carrying levers g, g', apart and in this
way the lower arms of the same are caused to work over each other like a pair of
scizzors, each one alternately changing its position with regard to the other. In
the case of tambour crank machines the two preliminary threads x and y to be
crossed by the operation of the two thread carrying levers g, gl, are carried from
above in a downward direction by a tube all which forms an inner needle rod,
then laterally outwards through a long slot ¹ formed in both needle rod parts a¹, a¹¹,
to eyes formed in the lower ends of the lower arms of the levers g, g¹. The long
Blot in the needle rod tubes a¹, a¹¹, serves also as a recess for a spring which

page_text: prevents the grooved ring e from turning on the needle rod (Fig. 5). The whole of
the preliminary thread feeding mechanism turns with the needle rod whilst the
crank is in motion. Upon each stitch made by the machine a fresh crossing of the
preliminary threads x and y is effected by the action of the thread carrying
levers g, g, which crossing is firmly sewn together by the needle stitch. The lever
mechanism may also be arranged as shewn in Figs. 6 and 7. Here instead of the
cam wheel d being formed with an edge of unequal thickness, it is made elliptical
in plan, the friction rollers i, ¹, bearing against the elliptic edge of the same. It
is obvious that the arrangement described may be utilised with one thread carrying
lever only for feeding or laying on a single thread zigzag, the manner of doing this
being shewn in Fig. 8 as applied to an ordinary Singer sewing machine. In this
case the construction is simplified by casting the disc or cam wheel d in one piece
with the driving wheel b and connecting the ring e direct to the fixed pivot a.
Fig. 8 also shews a method of sewing down strings of pearls or beads. When this
is required to be done the lower arms of the thread carrying levers g, g¹ are each
made in the form of a tube, through which the strings of pearls or beads are carried
instead of the preliminary threads as hereinbefore described. To prevent clogging
of the strings of pearls or beads the upper aperture of the tubes g, gl, are enlarged
in the form of a bell mouth. By a suitable adjustment of the various parts of the
mechanism, one of the tube like levers g may be operated so that one pearl or bead
comes to lie between each sewing stitch and the thread passing through them is
sewn down firmly as shewn in Fig. 9. With the two tube like levers a pearl or
bead may be sewn on each side of each stitch. In the case of tambour crank
sewing machines the strings of pearls or beads are of course carried by the needle
rod from above downwards and then to the feeding or laying on tubes which move
with the crank.
Figs. 10 and 11 illustrate a means of giving motion to the feeding or laying on
levers which possesses the advantage of greater durability as compared with the
arrangements préviously described. Further these figures show how the feeding
or laying on levers may be caused to move at any suitable velocity around the
.needle rod either in a right or left hand direction by means of the ordinary crank
motion of a Bonnaz embroidery machine. In the fixed guide bearing a is fixed a
bush b, and on this bush a sliding disc c is caused to move up and down (by means
of mechanism hereinafter described. In the drawing the disc c is shewn in its
lowest position. In the groove c¹ of the disc c engages a lever d which is fastened
to the rod e, this latter being carried vertically in the guide bearings f; f¹. The
bracket e fixed on the rod e carries a pinion in which the cam wheel g engages.
The latter is driven from the shaft A through toothed wheel work. A pinion on
the shaft A engages in the toothed wheel i fixed on the spindle of the cam wheel g.
As the toothed wheel which is fixed on the shaft A is only half as large as the
toothed wheel i, when the shaft A performs two revolutions the toothed wheel
and with it the cam wheel g, performs one revolution only. Upon each revolution
of the cam wheel g the rod e and with it the disc c is pressed once downwards.
The ascent of the rod e and disc c is effected by the action of the spring x. At the
lower end of the bush b is fixed a ring y by means of a small screw 8.
This ring
is provided with a groove in which corresponding projections on the ring engage.
Hence it is evident that the ring z is free to turn but it cannot move up and down.
In it is arranged a pin or stud on which the laying on or feeding levers v, v are
jointed so as to be able to oscillate thereon. On the ends of the arms vare
mounted friction rollers m, m which run between the disc c and the plates b¹.
When the disc c ascends the feeding or laying on levers are so moved that the
arms v cross each other. The same occurs upon the upward motion of the levers.
Thereupon the feeding or laying on arms of the levers cross for each stitch made
by the needle. The motion of both of the feeding or laying on levers round the
needle or needle tube N is caused to take place by reason of the stud k which is
fixed in the ring z, engaging by one of its ends in the slot n formed in the needle
rod tube N and thus it is carried along with this latter, the other end engaging in
ما

page_text: a slotted angle iron w firmly fixed to the disc c.
When the needle tube is caused
to turn by means of the ordinary known crank mounted underneath the table plate
of the machine and by means of the shaft B and of the bevel wheel c¹, c¹ then
the ring and disc c as also the feeding or laying on levers must receive this
motion, notwithstanding which the needle rod tube may move up and down
independently of the lever mechanism as a glance at the slot n clearly shews.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is
1. In sewing machines the method of and means for mounting one or two
thread feeding or laying on levers, or one or two feeding or laying on tubes,
consisting of the cam d of unequal thickness or elliptical in form mounted on the
fixed sleeve a and driven from the machine driving shaft, and of the ring e passed
through by the outer needle rod a¹ substantially as described and illustrated and
for the purpose specified.
2. In sewing machines the method of and means for sewing one or two strings
or threads of pearls, beads, or similar objects in the manner that one of the said
objects is fixed on one side or on both sides of each sewing stitch and the said
string or thread, or strings or threads are worked into the sewing, the pearls,
beads, or similar objects in the case of crank machines being conducted through
the hollow needle rod substantially as described and illustrated.
3. In sewing machines the mechanism for operating the thread feeding or laying
on levers consisting of the sliding parts c, b¹, in which the ends of the said levers
are carried, which sliding parts rotate with the needle rod tube, and are caused to
move up and down substantially as described with reference to Figs. 10 and 11.
4. The method of operating the sliding parts c, b¹ from the shaft A through
toothed wheels, cam wheel g vertical rod e and fork d, substantially as described
with reference to Figs. 10 & 11.
5. The ring z on which the thread feeding or laying on levers are mounted, and
the method of mounting the same so that it may turn with the needle rod tube
without moving up and down with the same substantially as described with
reference to Figs. 10 and 11.