IMPROVEMENTS IN BUTTON HOLDING AND FEEDING ATTACHMENTS FOR SEWING MACHINES
Year: 1886

page_text: I ALFRED GEORGE BROOKES of the firm of W Brookes & Son of 55 & 56 Chancery
Lane in the County of Middlesex Fellow of the Institute of Patent Agents, do
hereby declare the nature of my invention for IMPROVEMENTS IN BUTTON HOLDING
AND FEEDING ATTACHMENTS FOR SEWING MACHINES, to be as follows:-
This invention has for its object the production of a button holding attachment
adapted to hold a button above the material upon which it is to be secured, so as
to be entered by the eye pointed needle of any suitable sewing machine, the
Lutton holding and moving foot of the attachment also acting to feed or move the
material, so that the needle penetrates in succession the holes of the button, whether
the same has two or any usual number of holes.
In the present embodyment of my invention the button holder is actuated by or
from the needle-bar and is so constructed, as will hereinafter be described, as to be
capable of having a substantially universal movement imparted to it in any
direction with relation to the needle-hole or line of reciprocation of the needle-bar.
My invention consists in a button holding or feeding attachment composed,
essentially, of a lever of the first order having its fulcrum on a pivotted arm,, and
provided at one end with a button-holding foot, the said lever at its other end
having a rotating feed collar provided with an opening from end to end, which is
inclined with relation to the axis of rotation of the collar, a needle or other recipro-
cating bar entering the said feed-collar, and thereby vibrating the button holding
foot, as will be described.
The bed plate, overhanging arm, needle-bar, means to reciprocate it, the needle,
and the presser-bar and its spring may be the same as in the Wheeler & Wilson
machine and that generally known as style No. 10, and in practice the under-
thread carrier will be much as in the said machine.
In accordance with my invention a lever provided at its lower end with a
forked or other suitable shaped button holding foot, attached to it in suitable
manner, as by a screw, is supported between its ends by a pin or stud, thus

page_text: making of it a lever of the first order. The pin or stud which constitutes the
fulcrum for the lever is extended loosely through a threaded sleeve screwed into
an arm, which in turn has its fulcrum on a pin or stud which may be screwed into
a block or collar attached to the presser-bar by a screw.
The arm at its rear end
is provided with a threaded sleeve which receives the fulcrum pin or stud loosely.
The connection described, between the lever and arm and between the latter and
the block or collar is, it will be understood, such as to permit the lever and arm to
turn each on its own fulcrum or pivot, located at right angles to the other, thus
furnishing a practically universally moving joint or support for the lever, whereby
it may be turned in such direction with relation to the line of movement of the
needle as to enable the button holding foot to be moved in such direction with
relation to a path of movement of the needle, as to cause the latter to enter first
one and then the next hole in the button, as will be described.
The sleeve is screwed into the arm and made adjustable therein, the check-nut
holding the said sleeve in adjusted position. The sleeve is held in adjusted position
in the arm by a check nut. By turning the screw threaded sleeves out or in the
position of the lever or its foot may be so adjusted with relation to the path of
movement of the needle as to enable the holes in the button to be placed in the
line of its reciprocation. The spring, which surrounds and holds down the presser
bar, acts to retain the foot of the lever down against the material on the usual
throat-plate and bed of the machine. The lever is enlarged at its upper end to
form a yoke, which receives the rotating feed collar it being held loosely in the
said yoke by means of a pin, of a spring, that enters an annular groove in the said
collar. This collar has a hole or passage made through it at one side of its centre
line, and the walls of the passage so made are inclined, to form an inclined surface
against which may strike the upper end of a needle or other bar which is recipro-
cated in fixed bearings. As the upper end of the bar strikes the said inclined
surface the collar and the upper end of the lever will be moved away from that
side of the needle bar next which the inclined surface rests as the bar rises and
consequently the lower end of the lever and the foot with the button held by it
and the material will be moved in the opposite direction.
To change the direction of movement of the lever it is necessary to change the.
position of the collar with relation to the bar as or before the latter enters the
passage in the collar. To do this, the collar is provided with four pins say, for
instance, located ninety degrees apart, such location of the pins being necessary
when the buttons to be attached to the material bave either two or four holes, for
which such buttons the collar must be rotated either one hundred and eighty or
ninety degrees at each step. The lever near its upper end, has a projection,
provided with a pin, that serves as the fulcrum for a lever, having a toothed bead,
that engages a pawl-carrying block, provided with teeth, the said block being
moved back and forth on a guideway, screwed into the upper end of the lever.
This pawl carrying block has pivotted upon it two pawls one of which is a push-
pawl while the other is a pull-pawl, such construction enabling one to work at
each movement of the pawl-carrier. If the button to be sewed has four holes, but
one of the pawls will be retained in operation, the other pawl being turned aside,
the pawl retained at each movement toward the collar acting on one of the pins
and on each pin in succession, thus rotating the collar ninety degrees at each
stroke such change of position of the collar causing the foot to move in succession
in the lines of a quadrangular figure, thus bringing the holes of the buttons under
the needle in succession and causing the said button to assume various positions.
If the button has but two holes the other pawl will be thrown into operative
position, and thereafter the collar will be moved for half a rotation, or for one
hundred and eighty degrees, during each full reciprocation of the pawl carrying
block, both pawls acting, and the movement of the button will be according and
the needle will enter first one and then the other hole in succession, the stitch in
the latter case crossing the centre of the button. which is not the case with a four
Holed button.

page_text: To insure the movement of the upper end of the lever in any desired direction,
it is only necessary to turn the feed collar so that the inclined wall shall point or
incline downward in the same direction.
Movement of the upper end of the lever in one direction compels the movement
of the button-holding foot in the opposite direction, the joints described between it
and the block permitting the free and easy novement of the lever and foot in any
desired direction.
The button holding foot has a central opening of substantially the same shape as
the button to be attached, and leading outward therefrom is a straight slot
narrower than the said opening.
.
To properly insert a button into the central button holding space of the foot
I have provided a registering device composed of a flat bar, having two very
short projections or points which are just long enough to catch into the holes of
the buttons to position them correctly with relation to the registering.device, and
a spring, to keep the button in place on the said projections.
.
The width of the registering device is substantially equal to that of the slot in
the foot.
To apply a button to the foot, place the button in the registering device, lift the
foot slightly and insert the registering device under it until the button occupies
the circular space in the foot, then let the foot down upon the button. In this
position the operator will slightly lift the other end of the end of the part of the
registering device sufficiently to let the pins slip out of the holes in the button and
will then pull upon the registering device and draw it out longitudinally, the walls
of the presser foot holding the button from moving with the registering device.
The lever derives its motion from the needle-bar by a link connected with
a block secured to the said,bar.
In the foregoing description I have described my invention more particularly
with relation to the Wheeler and Wilson form of machine but I desire it to be
understood that my invention may be applied to any of the well-known forms of
sewing machines,

page_text: Sewing Machines.
I ALFRED GEORGE BROOKES of the firm of W Brookes & Son of 55 & 56 Chancery
Lane in the County of Middlesex Fellow of the Institute of Patent Agents do
hereby declare the nature of this invention (a communication from abroad by
Henry H Cummings of Malden in the County of Middlesex and State of Massa-
chusetts one of the United States of America) and in what manner the same is to
be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:
This invention has for its object the production of a button-holding attachment
adapted to hold a button above the material upon which it is to be secured, so as
to be entered by the eye-pointed needle of any suitable sewing-machine, the button
holding and moving foot of the attachment, also, acting to feed or move the
material, so that the needle penetrates in succession the holes of the button,
whether the same has two or any usual number of holes.
In the present embodyment of my invention the button-holder is actuated by or
from the needle-bar and is so constructed, as will hereinafter be described, as to
be capable of having a substantially universal movement imparted to it in any
direction with relation to the needle-hole or line of reciprocation of the needle-bar.
My invention consists in a button holding or feeding attachment composed,
essentially, of a lever of the first order having its fulcrum on a pivoted arm, and
provided at one end with a button-holding foot, the said lever at its other end
having a rotating feed-collar provided with an opening from end to end, which is
inclined with relation to the axis of rotation of the collar, a needle or other recipro-
cating bar entering the said feed-collar, and thereby vibrating the button-holding
foot, as will be described.
Figure 1, in front elevation, represents a sufficient portion of a sewing-machine
with my attachment applied to enable the construction and operation thereof to be
understood. Figure 2 is a right-hand side view of Figure 1. Figure 3 is a top or
plan view of Figure 1. Figure 4 is a sectional detail in the line xx, Figure 2, to
show the pivoted fulcrum for the button-feeding lever, and the manner of con-
necting the same with the presser-bar, the said figure showing the location of the
needle-bar. Figure 5 is an enlarged detail of the upper end of the said lever, the
rotating collar therein, and part of the reciprocating bar for moving the collar and
lever laterally. Figure 6 represents several diagrams, to show the different
positions of the button. Figure 7 is a plan view of the button-inserting device;
Figure 8, a section thereof in the dotted line ³. Figure 9 is a top view of the
button-holding foot and a section thereof.
The bed-plate A, overhanging arm B, needle-bar C, means to reciprocate it, the
needle a, and the presser-bar D and its spring D³ are supposed to be the same as
in the Wheeler and Wilson machine style No. 10, and in practice the under-thread
carrier will be as in the said machine.
In accordance with my invention a lever, b, provided at its lower end with a
forked or other suitable shaped button-holding foot, b¹, attached to it in suitable

page_text: manner, as by a screw, b³, is supported between its ends by a pin or stud, 6º, thụs
making of it a lever of the first order. The pin or stud b³, which constitutes the
fulcrum for the lever b, is extended loosely through a threaded sleeve, b*, screwed
into an arm, c, which in turn has its fulcrum on a pin or stud, c, herein shown as
screwed into a block or collar, es, attached to the presser-bar D. by a screw D'.
The arm c, at its rear end, is provided with a threaded sleeve ct, which receives the .
fulcrum pin or stud o³ loosely.
The connection described, between the lever b and arm o, and between the latter
and the block or collar o is, it will be seen, such as to permit the lever b and arm o
to turn each on its own fulcrum or pivot, located at right angles to the other, thus
furnishing a practically universally-moving joint or support for the lever b, whereby
it may be turned in such direction with relation to the line of movement of the
needle as to enable the button-holding foot to be moved in such direction with
relation to the path of movement of the needle, as to cause the latter to enter first
one and then the next hole in the button, as will be described.
The sleeve b* is screwed into the arm c and made adjustable therein, the check--
nut 14 holding the said sleeve in adjusted position. The sleeve o* is held in
adjusted position in the arm c by a check-nut, 12. By turning the screw-threaded
sleeves cb out or in, the position of the lever b or its foot b¹ may be so adjusted
with relation to the path of movement of the needle as to enable the holes in the
button to be placed in the line of its reciprocation. The spring D³, which surrounds
and holds down the presser-bar D, acts to retain the foot b¹ of the lever b down
against the material m on the usual throat-plate and bed of the machine. The
lever b is enlarged at its upper end to form a yoke, b, which receives the rotating
feed-collar e, it being held loosely in the said yoke by means of a pin e³, of a
spring, that enters an annular groove e¹, in the said collar. This collar has a
hole or passage made through it at one side of its centre line, and the walls of the
passage so made are inclined, as shown in Figure 5, to form an inclined surface, 4,
against which may strike the upper end of a needle or other bar, C; which is
reciprocated in fixed bearings. As the upper end of the bar C strikes the said
inclined surface 4, the collar and the upper end of the lever will be moved away
from that side of the needle-bar next which the inclined surface 4 rests as the
bar C rises, and consequently the lower end of the lever and the foot, with the
button held by it and the material, will be moved in the opposite direction.
To change the direction of movement of the lever, it is necessary to change the
position of the collar with relation to the bar C as or before the latter enters the
passage in the collar. To do this, the collar is provided with four pins, g, herein
shown as located ninety degrees apart, such location of the pins being necessary
when the buttons m¹ to be attached to the material m have either two or four
holes, as shown in the drawings, for with such buttons the collar must be rotated
either one hundred and eighty or ninety degrees at each step. The lever b, near
its upper end, has a projection, 68, provided with a pin, 67, that serves as the
fulcrum for a lever, o, having a toothed head, o¹, that engages a pawl-carrying
block, o, provided with teeth o³, the said block being moved back and forth on a
guideway, o, screwed into the upper end of the lever b. This pawl-carrying block
has pivoted upon it two pawls, one of which (marked f) is a push-pawl, while the
other (marked ƒ¹) is a pull-pawl, such construction enabling one to work at each
movement of the pawl-carrier. If the button to be sewed has four holes, but one
of the pawls will be retained in operation-viz., the pawl f-the other pawl, f¹,
being turned aside, as in full lines, the pawlf at each movement toward the collar
acting on one of the pins g, and on each pin in succession, thus rotating the collar
ninety degrees at each stroke, such change of position of the collar causing the foot
to move in succession in the lines of a quadrangular figure, thus bringing the
holes 1 2 3 4 of the buttons under the needle in succession, and causing the said
button to assume the various positions illustrated by the left hand diagram. If
the button has but two holes, as in the right-hand diagram, Figure 6, the pawl f¹
will be thrown into operative position, as in dotted lines, and thereafter the collar

page_text: will be moved for half a rotation, or for one hundred and eighty degrees, during
each full reciprocation of the pawl-carrying block, both pawls acting, and the
movement of the button will be as in the right-hand diagram; and the needle will
enter first one and then the other hole in succession, the stitch in the latter case
crossing the centre of the button, which is not the case with a four-holed button.
To insure the movement of the upper end of the lever b in any desired direction,
it is only necessary to turn the feed-collar so that the inclined wall 4 shall point
or incline downward in the same direction.
Movement of the upper end of the lever in one direction compels the movement
of the button-holding foot in the opposite direction, the joints described between it
and the block 3 permitting the free and easy movement of the lever and foot in
any desired direction.
The button-holding foot b¹ has a central opening (see Figure 9) of substantially
the same shape as the button to be attached, and leading outward therefrom is a
straight slot, 8, narrower than the said opening.
To properly insert a button, m'; into the central button-holding space of the
foot V₁, I have provided a registering device composed of a flat bar, p, having two
very short projections or points, 6, (shown in Figure 8,) which are just long enough
to catch into the holes of the buttons to position them correctly with relation to
the registering device, and a spring, p', to keep the button in place on the said
projections. The width of the registering device is substantially equal to that of
the slot 8 in the foot b¹
.
To apply a button to the foot, place the button in the registering device, lift
the foot slightly, and insert the registering device under it until the button
occupies the circular space in the foot, then let the foot down upon the button.
In this position the operator will slightly lift the other end of the part p of the
registering device sufficiently to let the pins 6 slip out of the holes in the button m,
and will then pull upon the registering device and draw it out longitudinally, the
walls of the presser-foot holding the button from moving with the registering
device..
The lever o derives its movement from the needle-bar by a link, oð,
with a block, oº, secured to the said bar.
connected
I do not broadly claim the rotating feed-collar having the inclined passage
through it, as such is old in the Bonnaz and other embroidery-machines.
I have shown my improvements added to a Wheeler & Wilson form of machine;
but I desire it to be understood that my invention may be applied to any of the
well-known forms of sewing-machines.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is :
1. A button holding and feeding device composed of a lever having an attached
foot, a rotating collar provided with an opening inclined with relation to the centre
of the collar, and an arm upon which the said lever is pivoted, and a block or collar
in which the said arm is pivoted, the said parts being at right angles each to the
other, thus constituting a universally-jointed support for the said lever, to operate
substantially as described.
2. The presser-bar, the lever b, provided with the attached button receiving and
holding foot, and rotating collar provided with the inclined passage, combined with
the arm c, to receive the fulcrum-stud for the said lever, and pivoted upon a block.
connected with the presser-bar, and with the needle-bar to enter the collar and
move the lever b, substantially as described.
3. The lever b, provided with the button receiving or holding foot 6¹, stud b³,
arm c, and stud c³, combined with the two adjustable screw-threaded sleeves,
arranged at right angles each to the other and fitted to the said studs, adjustment
of the said sleeves enabling the button to be placed in correct position under the
needle, substantially as described,

page_text: 4. The lever b, provided at one end with the button receiving and holding foot
and at its other end with the rotating toothed collar having the inclined passage
formed through it, combined with the needle-bar, and with means, substantially as
described, between it and the said collar to rotate the same intermittingly, as
set forth.
5. The lever b, provided with the button receiving or holding foot, and the
rotating loose collar provided with the inclined opening and ratchet-pins, and a
pawl and pawl-carrier adapted to be moved by or from the needle-bar to rotate
the said collar, combined with the pivoted arm to support the said lever, sub-
stantially as described.
6. The lever b, provided with the button receiving or holding foot, and the
rotating collar e, provided with the inclined opening and with ratchet-pins, and a
pawl-carrier provided with a push and with a pull pawl, and arm c, to pivotally
support the lever b, as described, combined with the needle-bar, and means, sub-
stantially as described, between it and the said pawl-carrier to actuate the latter,
the upper end of the needle-bar entering the diagonal hole in the collar, as set
forth.
7. The button-holding presser-foot, combined with the button-registering device,
constructed substantially as described, it consisting of the shank provided with
projections 6, and the connected spring, the shank and spring being of less width
than the diameter of the button, the registering device enabling the button to be
presented to the presser-foot in correct position to be entered by the needle of the
sewing-machine, as set forth.