IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FRONTS OF SHIRTS
Year: 1849

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JACQUES-
HULOT, of Rue St. Joseph, Paris; in the Republic of France, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Royal Letters Patent under the Great Seal of the United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland, bearing date at Westminster, the Fifth day of June,.
One thousand eight hundred and forty-nine, in the twelfth year of Her reign.
did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the said
Jacques Hulot, my exors, adñiors, and assigns, Her especial licence, full power;
sole privilege and authority, that I, the said Jacques Hulot, my exors, admors,
and assigns, and such others as I, the said Jacques Hulot, my exors, admors;
or assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time
and at all times during the term of years therein expressed, should and lawfully
might make, use, exercise, and vend, within England, Wales, and the Town of
Berwick-upon-Tweed, my Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE
OF FRONTS OF SHIRTS;" in which said Letters Patent is. contained a proviso
that I, the said Jacques Hulot, should cause a particular description of the
nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed;
by an instrument in writing under my hand and seal, to be inrolled in: Her
said Majesty's High Court of Chancery within six calendar month's next and
immediately after the date of the said in part recited Letters. Patent," as in
and by the same, reference being thereunto had, will more. fully and at large
appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said

page_text: Jacques Hulot, do hereby declare that the nature of my said Invention, and
the manner in which the same is to be performed, are fully described and
ascertained in and by the following statement thereof, reference being had to
the Diagrams hereunto annexed, that is to say :-
My Invention consists of the manufacture and application of certain fabrics
hereafter explained, which are peculiarly adapted for shirt fronts by reason of
the fabrics being woven with imitation stitched folds or plaits across from
selvage to selvage of the fabrics.
And in order that the Invention may be most fully understood and readily
carried into effect, I will proceed to describe the means pursued by me.
The loom used is to have a warp introduced as if about to weave
plain or calico fabrics of a suitable fineness for the purposes of shirt fronts,
and the harness of the loom is to be such that the warp employed may
be divided into two parts, and worked as separate warps when making what
I have called imitation stitched folds or plaits, and so that the front of
the fabric may be shot with weft similar to that used for making the plain and
single parts of the fabric, and so that the back of the fabric may be shot with
a similar weft to the other part, or with a thicker weft (which I generally
prefer); in order to throw up the front fabric and give the appearance of pro-
jection to the imitation folds or plaits, the imitation stitching.being produced
as hereafter explained. I would remark that the order and width of the
imitation folds or plaits may be varied according to the taste and judgment
of the weaver, but in order to facilitate his more completely understanding the
nature of my Invention, I will proceed to give him examples of somewhat
different arrangements of the mounture of a loom, but similar in respect to s
the means of carrying out my Invention. The weft I employ for producing
imitation stitching is fine gassed thread, and the same is thrown several times
across, as hereafter stated, the warps being properly opened for the passage of
the shuttle. Supposing the draught No. 1 is to be executed, the loom being
provided with ordinary harness for making a fabric of the desired number of
yarns in the warp, there are to be twelve leaves of heddles (lames), twelve
heddle bearers or levers above the loom, twelve small counter-marches, twelve
large counter-marches, and fourteen treadles.
Draught No. 1. The warp is represented in the Figure in a perpendicular
position, the lines H, F, D, B, I, L, N, G, E, C, A, J, K, M, represent the
treadles. The weft is represented from left to right in a horizontal position by
the twelve lines 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12.
Encordage. The spots represented by the O's are those where the small
cords pass which correspond with the large counter-niarches and lift up the

page_text: lames or leaves of headles. The spots represented by the strokes are those
where the great cords pass and pull down the lames or leaves of heddles; these
communicate with the small counter-marches.
The weaving according to this Draught No. 1 begins by a calico stroke or
5 single tissue with the marches A, B, which is continued until sufficient calico
or plain single weaving is made. When the imitation fold or plait is to be
produced a satin stroke is used by three lames or leaves of heddles forming
a portion of two fabrics having both sides alike, that is to say, no wrong
side or reverse, using, however, a somewhat thicker weft both at front
and back as compared with that used for the plain single fabric, which is
executed by the treadles C, D, E, F, G, H, which stroke is repeated until
the fold or plait is wide enough, according to pattern. Then in order to
ornament and give a finish to the plait or fold, the imitation of the back
stitch of the sempstress is to be produced by the treadles I, J, or if desired
a different sort of stitch by means of the treadles K, L, or with the treadles
M, N. Instead of a single stitch, a fancy stitch can be made which will
ornament the outer border of the imitation fold by striking first with the
treadles K, L, then with I, J, and repeating with the treadles M, N, or by
alternating the three strokes, which may be repeated according to taste. The
desired imitation of a stitched imitation fold or plait being thus produced by
the weaver, the plain or single fabric is again to be made by means of the
treadles A, B, and when the required quantity is made, then another imitation
stitched plait or fold is to be produced, as before explained, and so on till the
pattern of imitation plaited fabric suitable for the fronts of shirts is produced.
The Draught No. 2 is produced by means of twelve leaves of heddles (lames),
twelve heddle bearers or levers, twelve small counter-marches, twelve large
counter-marches, and twelve treadles. The weaver first proceeds to weave a
quantity of plain or single fabric by means of the treadles A, B, then he
proceeds to make an imitation fold or plait by means of the treadles C, D, to
form the top, a commencement of a fold or imitation plait, after that the
double fabric is produced by a satin stroke at the back, and plain or calico
weaving in front produced by the treadles C, F, C, H, I, J, using a thicker
weft for the back than for the front fabric, in order to throw the front up,
and thus give projection to the imitation plait or fold. The imitation of
he stitching of sempstress is then to be produced by the treadles K, L, and
he weaver will repeat the production of plain or single fabric, and then the
mitation of folds or plaits, according to taste or pattern.
The Draught No. 3 is produced by eight leaves or heddles (lames), eight
eddle bearers or leavers, eight small marches, eight large marches, and ten

page_text: treadles, and the weaver begins by using a calico stroke with the treadle A, B,
and when the proper quantity of plain single fabric has been produced, an
imitation fold or plait is to be made by a calico stroke of four lames by the
treadles C, D, then a satin stroke of four lames by the treadles E, F, repeated
on the treadles G, H, alternately; this fabric makes a lining, and has a reverse
on wrong side. The back stitch of the sempstress or figure is obtained by an
stroke of the treadles I, J. Lastly, add to the pattern, according to taste,
little folds, to which may be added lining to make them stand out more in
relief by means of a fabric off our laines to make the small folds by the action
of the treadles A for the lining, and C, D, for the upper fabric. This lining.
These
or stuffing is employed only in small folds, and not in the larger ones.
folds have a lining made by the action of the treadles E, F, G, H, forming
the satin.
The Draught No. 4 is produced by employing twelve leaves of heddles
(lames), twelve heddle bearers or levers, twelve small counter-marches, twelve
large counter-marches, and sixteen treadles. The weaver, as in the preceding,
commences by the action of the treadles A, B, to produce a single plain fabric,
after which pass to a fabric of six lames to form the folds with the treadles
C, D, then the lining or back by a satin stroke of six lames with the treadles
E, F, G, H, I, J, and the back stitch by the action of the treadles K, L
Then, as in the preceding draught, a satin of twelve lames divided by four
lames may be substituted for the space between the folds, ad libitum, by the
action of the treadles M, N, O, P, alternately.
Having thus described the nature of my Invention, and the manner of
performing the same, I would have it understood that I do not confine nyself
to the four draughts herein described, so long as similar means be resorted to,
and fabrics are produced having similar imitation of stitched folds or plaits
produced across the fabrics by weaving, as herein explained; and I would state
that I am aware that various descriptions of double and single fabrics-com-
bined in the same weavings have been produced for the manufacture of corsets
and other purposes, I do not, therefore, claim generally to weave double and
single fabrics in the same weaving; but what I claim is the manufacture and
application of the peculiar fabrics herein described for making fronts of shirts.
In witness whereof, I, the said Jacques Hulot, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Ninth day of November, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and forty-nine.
JACQUES (LS.). HULOT.

page_text: AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the Ninth day of November, in the
year of our Lord 1849, the aforesaid Jacques Hulot (through the interpre-
tation of Richard Davis, of Princes Street, Blackfriars, the said Richard
Davis having been first sworn that he had truly & faithfully interpreted the
said Invention & also the acknowledgment to him the said Jacques Hulot)
came before our said Lady the Queen in Her Chancery, and acknowledged the
Specification aforesaid, and all and every thing therein contained and specified,
in form above written. And also the Specification aforesaid was stamped
according to the tenor of the Statute made for that purpose.
Enrolled the Fifth day of December, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and forty-nine.