Improvements in and in the Manufacture of Felt Hats, Caps, Bonnets, or other similar Articles or Coverings for the Head, and in Apparatus therefor.
Year: 1887

page_text: Date of Application, 29th Mar., 1887
Complete Left, 29th Dec., 1887
Complete Accepted. 2nd Mar., 1888
Improvements in and in the Manufacture of Felt Hats, Caps,
Bonnets, or other similar Articles or Coverings for the Head,
and in Apparatus therefor.
1, ARTHUR FIELDING, of Dantzic Street Manchester in the county of Lancaster
Drysalter do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
:―
Coverings for the head such as hats caps bonnets and the like made from felt are
at present produced of a number or variety of colours but each particular article is
of one colour throughout and any ornamental designs or figuring required thereon
have been applied by way of hands or ribbons or by embroidery or painting.
The object of this invention is to produce a hat cap bonnet or other head covering
with ornamental patterns or designs formed thereon in the process of manufacture
and so avoid the necessity of applying ornamentation thereto in the form of
trimmings.
it consists essentially in printing during the process of manufacture upon the body
of the article the design or pattern required and so produce a figured or printed hat
bonnet or cap and in the apparatus for so doing in which one or more engraved
rollers or blocks corresponding in shape to the hat or bonnet are formed in con-
nection with or to revolve round a block on which the hat body is placed while
receives the impressions therefrom.
In carrying out the invention the body of the article (herein called the hat body)
is felted and prepared in the usual manner until it reaches the finishing or stiffening
stage in the process of manufacture it is then subjected to a process of printing
similar to that employed in the printing of woollen fabrics or calico. Any suitable
pattern figure or design may be used printed in one or more colours on a white or
dyed ground the color being fixed in the way well known in woollen and calico
printing.
The pattern to be printed is engraved on a roller or block of copper wood or
other suitable material. The roller must be made to correspond exactly in shape or
demensions with the hat body that is if the hat body taper towards the crown the
roller must also taper and have the same diameter and surface measurement as the

page_text: hat body to be printed. A block to receive the hat body is mounted on the end of a
shaft revolving in a swivel or other. suitable bearing. The engraved roller is fixed
on a suitable shaft and may be operated either by hand or by power. The shafts
carrying the hat block and the engraved roller are geared together to insure their
turning synchronously so that one revolution will exactly print the whole hat body
and join the pattern. Should two revolutions be necessary to effect the printing then
the impression made at the second exactly coincides and falls upon that made at the
first. These rollers do not print the crown of the hat and where the hat body is
tapered print to within a few inches of the top. The block upon which the hat
body is placed is preferably covered with indiarubber or a soft fabric or felted
material. When the body is printed and before or after the hat is blocked into shape
as may be found most convenient the crown is printed with a separate block the
pattern in which is engraved so as to fall into the space left at the crown by the
roller. When the hat body has been printed it is then dryed and turned and so much
of the brim as is required to be figured is printed from the same roller or placed upon
another machine and printed in a similar manner from a roller engraved so as to print
the required amount. After printing the hat is steamed and blocked to shape.
It is not essential that the printing should take place before the hat is blocked to
shape as in some instances it may be found better to print the designs on the hat after
it is blocked but at present I prefer to print the hat body before it is blocked.
Where two or more colours are required each will be applied separately in the
manner described. The hat body may be removed from one machine to another for
each colour or the roller in the machine may be changed after a given number have
been printed and the roller for printing another colour substituted a different block
also being employed for printing each colour on the crown.
As above stated the machine is constructed with a block for the hat body and an
engraved roller or block geared together. A sliding arm or holder projects from one
side of the machine. The position of this arm may be adjusted to accommodate itself
to the position of the hat block. This position will vary according to the shape of the
hat when more pointed at the crown the holder must be lengthened. The shaft of
the hat block may be mounted in swivel bearings so as to be used as a lever to exert
the necessary pressure to effect the printing and also to facilitate its removal from the
machine. A weight heavy or light as may be required is used to provide the
pressure. The colour is supplied to the printing rollers by means of a roller revolving
in a colour box. This roller should be of the same shape as the engraved roller and
where necessary a doctor may be employed to prevent the conveyance of two much
of the colouring matter.
Dated this 28th day of March 1887
WM. P. THOMPSON & Co.,
6, Bank Street, Manchester,
Agents for the Applicant.

page_text: Improvements in and in the Manufacture of Felt Hats, Caps,
Bonnets, or other similar Articles or Coverings for the Head,
and in Apparatus therefor.
I ARTHUR FIELDING, of Dantzic Street, Manchester, in the County of Lancaster,
Drysalter, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement :-
Coverings for the head such as hats, caps, bonnets, and the like made from felt are
at present produced of a number or variety of colours but each particular article is of
one colour thoroughout and any ornamental designs or figuring required thereon
have been applied by way of bands or ribbons or by embroidery or painting.
Attempts have been made and machines designed for printing patterns upon the
bodies of hats but these have not been successful inasmuch as no machine capable of
printing a regular or continuous pattern has been produced.
The chief object of this invention is to provide for the manufacture of hats, caps,
bonnets or other head coverings printed with regular or continuous ornamental
patterns or designs during the process of manufacture and so avoid if desired the
necessity of applying ornamentation thereto in the form of trimmings.
Referring to the drawings annexed hereto.
Sheets 1, 2 and 3. show the apparatus for printing a continuous or regular pattern
on the brims and top or crowns of the hat in these.
Fig. 1 is a side elevation.
Fig. 2 plan.
Fig. 3 section through cylinders of the machine.
Sheets 4 and 5 show the apparatus for printing the pattern on the body or sides of
the hat.
Fig. 4 side elevation.
Fig. 5 plan.
The machine shown comprises a block or cylinder to receive the hat body and hold
it in position to receive the impression printed upon it and one or more cylinders or
their equivalent engraved with the design to be printed upon the hat.
Referring to Figs. 1 to 3 A is the cylinder or block to receive and hold the hat
and B are the engraved or printing cylinders or blocks. The cylinder or block A is
(as shown in Fig. 4) formed hollow.and has an opening or recess a cut in it through
which the part of the hat not being operated upon can be inserted.
For full patterns
it is preferable to have a cylinder with six or more openings or recesses so as to suit
the various sizes of hats to be printed such cylinder to revolve so that the brim of the
hat shall come in contact with the engraved part of lock B. These cylinders are
mounted in a metal or other suitable frame Cand fitted so that their relative positions
may be readily altered or adjusted also that the engraved or printing rollers may be

page_text: readily and quickly removed and replaced by others carrying a different pattern.
The cylinder A is provided with a vertically sliding bearing D adjusted by the
screws d d and the bearings E of the cylinders B slide horizontally being adjusted
by the screws e which are screwed into the nuts or washers e¹. The weighted lever F
exerts a force to press the cylinder B against the cylinder A and yet allow of the
movement of the cylinder B when the material passes between it and A. f, is the
centre upon which the lever F is pivoted and G are the counter balance weights
suspended from the lever F by the rod 4. Each of the engraved or printing
cylinders B are provided with a colour roller H which revolves in a trough I, con-
taining the colour to be applied. The horizontal position of the trough I, may be
adjusted by the screw and the vertical by the screw K pivoted on the stud or set
screw. The trough rests on the bracket L pivoted at e and may with its roller be
readily removed and be replaced by another containing another colour. M. is a
doctor placed against each printing cylinder to remove excess of colour. The
cylinders are geared together by the wheels N which are the block wheels usually
employed on cylinder printing machines so that the cylinders may be adjusted without
removing the wheels. When printing the brims o of the hat the crown o', is placed
inside the cylinder A and the brim o projects over the periphery against which it lies
flat whilst brought into contact with the printing cylinders B. That part of the
periphery upon which the brim falls is made lower than the body of the block so that
a cushion b of soft material may be placed under the brim to aid printing. Inside the
cylinder A secured by a stud is placed a block P in shape corresponding to the hat
under operation. The hat is placed thereon so that when rotated the crown comes in
contact with the engraved cylinders B.
Referring to Figs. 4 and 5 in which the apparatus for printing the sides of the hat
is shown the parts of the apparatus corresponding with or for similar purposes to those.
already described are marked with similar letters with the addition of a dash. A¹ is
the cylinder or block mounted upon the end of the shaft to receive the hat body
tapered in form to correspond with the shape of the hat. B' is the engraved cylinder
or printing block similar in shape and form to A¹ so as to revolve synchronously
therewith, it should be made to correspond exactly in shape and have the same
diameter as the hat body to be printed but preferably a little longer so that colour
which collects at the ends shall not touch the hat. is the frame. The printing
block B is journalled in fixed bearings E¹ the movement for adjusting the relative
positions of the printing and hat carrying blocks being confined to the latter. The
bearing D swivells about its centre as the bearing D is moved to and fro horizontally
in its slide by the screw and the block A' approaches or recedes from the block B¹.
F is the weighted lever that impards pressure to the blocks or rolls A¹ and B' by the
action of the weight G₁. The colour roller H' is tapered to correspond to the shape
of the printing block B or it may be cylindrical and its bearings be so set as to place
it in contact with the block B¹. The roller H¹ and colour trough I¹ are adjustable so
that they can be raised and lowered and readily removed to change the colour the
trough resting on the bracket I. A doctor Mis placed at the side of the printing
block to remove excess of colour. The blocks A and B are geared together by the
wheels N¹. The engraved or printing cylinders or blocks are preferably made of
copper but may be of any other suitable material such as wood in which case doctors
are not required as the pattern would be raised on the surface of the roller.
The second printing.roller shown in Figs. 1. 2 and 3 is for the purpose of printing a
second, colour or alternate pattern at the same time but it may be dispensed with,
where only one colour is required one roller will be sufficient and in the case of two
colours or patterns the one can be first printed and then the other after the roller has
been changed. Likewise in Figs. 4 and 5 a second printing block or roller may be
added but I prefer the arrangement of machines shown.
In carrying out the invention the body of the article (herein called the hat body)
is felted and prepared in the usual manner until it reaches the first blocking stage in
the process of manufacture-that is after the brims have been formed-it is then
printed with a continuous or regular design by means of the apparatus.herein referred

page_text: to. Any suitable pattern or design may be engraved on the cylinders or blocks BB,
and the printing may be effected in one or more colours on a white or dyed ground
the colour being fixed in the way well known in the printing of woo len fabrics.
When the
The hat preferably is first placed upon the cylinder or block A with the crown
inside and the brim printed on one side, it is then taken off the block and dried and
turned with the other side out and the brim printed on the other side.
brim has been printed the hat is removed and dried and placed on the block A¹ Figs. 4
and 5 which is brought into contact with the roller B' and the design engraved
thereon is printed round the body of the hat. The cylinder or block carrying the hat
and the engraved cylinder or block should be made of the same diameter and the
shafts be geared together to insure their turning synchronously so that one revolution
will exactly print the whole surface and join the pattern (in case of stripes round the
hat this is immaterial.). Should two revolutions be necessary to effect the printing
then the impression made at the second exactly coincides and falls upon that made at
the first. When dry the crown is next printed. The hat is placed on block P in
cylinder A and printed as in the case of the brims from the engraved cylinder B.
The cylinders containing the pattern for the brim may be removed and others sub-
stituted or the pattern for the crown may be engraved on the space inside that for the
brims. The hat may be secured to the block by an elastic band or other suitable
fastening and if desired the top of the block P may be padded.
It will be obvious that either part of the hat may be printed first and the others
printed in turn as may be found inost convenient, or the hat body and brim may be
printed in the shape of a cone, before first blocking to make brims, but this can
only be done with patterns which would not be pulled out of shape in the blocking.
Where two or more colours are required each will be applied by separate rollers in
the manner described. Two or more rollers may be provided for each machine or the
hat may be removed from one machine to another for each colour or the roller in
the machine may be changed after a given number have been printed and the roller
for printing another colour substituted.
When the printing is completed the hat is removed and steamed or otherwise
treated to fix the colour that has been printed upon it as is well known in the process
of dyeing woollen fabrics. The hat is then finished blocked and brims curled if
desired and is ready for the market.
The hats thus produced will be ornamented with a printed regular or continuous
pattern and will present an appearance not hitherto obtained. By continuous or
regular pattern I mean one that shows no join or patch but that looked at from any
side presents practically the same appearance. The example represented in Fig. 6
shows a hat with continuous stripes or bands running round it.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I wish it to be under-
stood that I do not claim broadly the printing of hat bodies to ornament them, as
irregular patterns have been printed upon then with stamps. Nor do I claim broadly
the use of cylinders for printing as such have been applied to the printing of calico,
woollen fabrics, paper etcetera where the material is in the web or piece but I declare
that what I claim is.
1. In the manufacture of felt hats the process which consists of printing upon the
hat body in colour a continuous or regular pattern and then steaming or otherwise
fixing the colour of the pattern substantially as and in the manner described.
2. A machine for printing a continuous or regular pattern on hats having a
revolving block or cylinder to receive the hat-(either internally or upon its external
surface) and an engraved cylinder or block from which the pattern is printed the two
revolving together substantially as described.
3. A machine for printing hats having one or more engraved cylinders fitted with
colour trough and rollers in combination with a cylinder having a recess to receive
that portion of the hat which is not being printed substantially as described with
reference to Figs. 1. 2 and 3.

page_text: 4. A machine for printing hat bodies having a block to receive the hat, tapered
to correspond to the contour of the hat body, placed at the end of a swivelling shaft
so that its position may be altered and adjusted, and an engraved printing roller
or block of similar shape working in combination with a colour roller and trough
substantially as and for the purpose described with reference to Figs. 4 and 5.
5. As a new article of manufacture a felt hat, cap, bonnet, or similar article printed
during the process of manufacture with a continuous or regular pattern comprising
one or more colours substantially as described.
Dated this 28th day of December 1887