IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF CUT PILE FABRICS
Year: 1881

page_text: PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by John Henry Johnson at the Office
of the Commissioners of Patents on the 30th November 1881. A commu-
nication from abroad by Auguste Oscar Delétoille and Henri Jean Baptiste
Lechopier, both of Paris, in the Republic of France.
JOHN HENRY JOHNSON, of 47, Lincoln's Inn Fields, in the County of Middlesex,
Gentleman. "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF CUT PILE FABRICS."
A communication from abroad by Auguste Oscar Delétoille and Henri Jean
Baptisto Lechopier, both of Paris, in the Republic of France.
This Invention relates to the manufacture of what are known as Moquetto
carpets and other like cut pile fabrics, and it has for its object enabling designs to
be produced of richer and more varied tints than are possible according to the
methods heretofore adopted, and at the same time effecting a considerable economy
in the cost of production, as hereinafter more fully described.
Moquette carpets have heretofore been manufactured with a bottom or ground
web of tow, flax, or hemp, which forms the wrong side or back of the fabric; and
in order to produce the pile or face of the carpet woollen threads or yarns wound
in pairs of the same colour upon spools or bobbins are employed.
According to this Invention the threads forming the pile are wound singly upon
spools or bubbins, whereby it is rendered possible to obtain a greater variety of
effects than when the ordinary system is adopted, and the method of preparing the
design on the cards is correspondingly modified in order to produce the required
combinations of colours in the finished article.
In carrying out this Invention the bobbins or spools are carried on suitable
banks or frames, and are each wound with one woollen thread in lieu of with two
threads as heretofore, whereby a considerable economy is effected in the amount of
wool required to produce a given pattern or design. A variety of different qualities
may be obtained in the finished product by employing different numbers of frames,
each frame being composed of, say, two hundred and fifty bobbins.
Assuming by way of example that six different colours and a corresponding
number of frames are employed, a great variety of shades of colour are obtained

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green.
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light blue.
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red.
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6th
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dark blue.
With these 6 series of coloured pile threads of wool the colours or combinations
next hereafter specified as combined in tho manufacture of the fabric are obtained
by causing two threads of different shades to work together.
1st effect, light yellow combined olive green to produce one shade.
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green
light blue
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red
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dark blue
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olivo green
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light blue
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red
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dark blue
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green,
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light blue
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red
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dark blue
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light blue
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red
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dark blue
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red and dark bluo
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two threads of dark blue for ground
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It will be observed that one color is never used alone in making one of the
points in the designing. These colors are obtained by taking two threads together
in reading the design. According to this improved method five hundred threads
are lifted in weaving each point of the fabric, corresponding to one pin or wire in
lieu of two hundred and fifty, as in the case of weaving Moquette or pile carpet,
according to the method heretofore adopted.
In weaving fabrics according to this improved system of manufacture the
manner of reading the design is changed, as will be readily understood on con-
sidering that one thread only is used as an equivalent for the pair of threads of
the same color usually employed.
Any suitable mechanism may be employed for operating the thread, and
assuming that three series of variously coloured threads are employed with a
corresponding number of lifting apparatus or mechanism for operating the same,
each of the said apparatus being connected with five hundred hooks, the threads
will be lifted in series corresponding to the following combinations, viz. :—
1st. Lifting apparatus operating 500 hooks
250 hooks for the spools of light yellow in one thread.
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olive green
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250
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red
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dark blue in one or two threads.
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The designs for the cards are painted with all the tints that can be obtained by
combining together the two colors that form one shade.
The design for the card is given to the reader with a gamut or scale of the
composite tones (similar and corresponding to the design for the card), which he
must read in connection with each harness. The reader does not know the colors
which are in the loom.
For example, in order to read a design comprising the series of colors herein-
before specified the reader reads upon the first row of points on the design the
composite shades which are colored to agree with the card in its order of reading,

page_text: and he is aware that when he reads these shades the card when in the loom will
lift the light yellow in the first set of harness by means of the two hundred and
fifty hooks connected with the first lifting apparatus. This light yellow only
forms one of the two series of threads which are necessary to make the required
shade, and it is requisite to combine it with a thread of another color. For this
purpose the reader looks for this second thread in another set of harness, which is
pointed out to him in the order of reading for the same color. If it appears to be
in the second harness, he will cause an olive green to be lifted; the combination of
these two colors will thus be light yellow and olive green. If it appears to be in
the fourth harness, a light blue will be lifted, and the combination of these two
colors will be light yellow and light blue, and similar results will be obtained in
the case of the other colors.
In order to obtain the five hundred threads required for each wire or row of
tufts the reader has in his order of reading to read twice same effect in two
different sets of harness.
In the case of Moquette as heretofore manufactured it is not possible to obtain
more than six colours in the direction of the length of the fabric in preparing a
design to be woven in a loom provided with six, frames or six warps, each con-
taining two hundred and fifty threads. By means of this Invention it is possiblo
to obtain fifteen mixtures or combinations of different tones, plus the blue ground,
with one or two threads in order to produce all the effects of tint required in the
direction of the length as well as in the direction of the breadth of the fabric,
whilst at the same time a great variety of effects is obtained by reason of the
number of combinations or mixtures which are rondered available by the large
quantity of different tints employed.
Carpets manufactured according to this Invention are cheaper than the Moquette
or cut pile carpets heretofore manufactured by employing the same number of
frames or webs of wool, because the weight of wool used according to this improved
method is but a little more than one half of that usually employed.
The operation of weaving is carried out in other respects in the manner and by
the means ordinarily employed in the manufacture of cut pilo fabrics.
The Invention is also applicable to the manufacture of fabrics or stuffs for table
cloths, upholstering, and other similar purposes, and enables the same advantages
to be realised in the case of these goods as in the case of carpets with regard to
the richness of the tints and economy in the production.