IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY FOR TRIMMING THE BRIMS OF. HATS
Year: 1885

page_text: I JOHN BIGELOW of 916 Chestnut Street in the City of Philadelphia State of
Pennsylvania United States of America Mechanical Engineer do hereby declare
the nature of this Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY FOR TRIMMING
THE BRIMS OF. HATS" and in what manner the same is to be performed to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
The object of this Invention is to automatically trim the curls of hat brims to a
regular outline after they have been shaped and set, and while they remain in shape
preparatory to being bound and this object is attained according to this Invention
principally by causing the hat itself to determine the depth or line of cut or
trimming and also by allowing a tilting motion to the hat in the direction of its
length all as fully described and claimed hereafter.
In the accompanying drawings:
Figure 1 is a vertical section of my improved machine in the form in which
I prefer to construct it.
Figure 2 is a front elevation of the same.
;
Figure 3 is a vertical section of the head of the machine, drawn to an enlarged
scale.
Figure 4
a front view of the same.
Figure 5 is a perspective view of the curved foot for supporting the curl of the
brim.
Figure 6 is a perspective view of the preferred form of cutter and cutter holder.
Figure 7 is a perspective view of a slotted guide plate.
Figure 8 is a similar view of the movable guage.
Figure 9 is a plan view of the pattern cam.
Figures 10 and 11 are views of a modified form of trimming device which may
be used.
Figure 12 is a view of another form of trimmer.
Figure 13 is a view of a modification, illustrating how motion may be imparted
to the pattern cam and hat carrier from the cutter-operating mechanism.
Figure 14 is an enlarged sectional view illustrating the use of the metallic
formers to support the curl during the trimming, in place of the fixed supporting
foot.
Figure 15 is a view of a modification.
Figures 16 and 17 are views of different forms of an attachment for the machine
and
"
2
207

page_text: The preferred form of trimming mechanism will be most readily understood by
reference to Figures 3 and 4 and a brief description of the parts there shown.
A is a portion of the fixed frame of the machine to which is secured the head A¹,
Pivoted to the latter is a cutter arm B¹ carrying at its outer end a vertical cutting
tool B. A short reciprocating movement is imparted to this cutter arm by an
eccentric or crank d on a rotary shaft D. through the medium of a link b.
E is a pattern cam mounted on a rotary cam shaft E' and adapted to act on a
movable arm F, carrying at its upper end the adjustable guage F1, the gauge arm
being kept up in contact with the cam by a spring for other suitable retractor.
The upper end of the gauge F¹ is guided in a slotted arm G (Figure 7) bolted to
the head of the frame and having besides the elongated slot g for the said plate an
opening g for the free passage of the cutter B-To an overhanging portion of the
head A¹ is secured the curved supporting foot H, which has its tip extending to
one side, as shown in Figures 4 and 5 so as to bring it immediately under the
cutter and guide plate G and in line with the gauge.
The hat to be trimmed and which has had its brim shaped and set to the desired
outline, is applied with the curl of the brim over the tip of the foot Has illustrated
in Figure 3, and is traversed around below the cutter as hereinafter described while
its outer edge is held up in contact with the gauge F-The cam E however in
conjunction with the spring f moves the arm and gauge plate in and out, and so
causes the curl to be cut of varying width, according to the form of the cam while
the hat is so turned in concert with the cam as to cut the curl to the desired
regular outline, in most cases widest at the sides of the hat and narrowest at the
brows as the character of the hat and fashion may dictate.
EL
To insure this regularity of outline the hat is mounted on a holder which turns
the hat in precise accord with the movement of the cam which varies the depth
of cut.
The holder illustrated in the drawing is a hat block. M carried by a vertical
stem m in a movable frame K, this stem being so geared or connected to the cam
shaft that the two always move in accord, the construction of devices shown in
Figures 1 and 2 being preferred.
The vertical cam shaft E¹ which is free to turn in its bearings in the frame A,
carries at its lower end a pinion e gearing into a pinion on a short shaft I in
bearings in the base plate A2-This shaft I is connected through a rod J and two
universal joints to a hollow shaft or sleeve J₁ mounted in bearings in the
swinging frame K which is forked at its lower end and pivoted to the frame in
line with the lower universal joint ; of the transmitting shaft and rod-This
pivoted or swinging frame is preferably provided with a counter weighted arm K¹
or spring or equivalent device to tend to bring the upper end of the frame K up to
the stationary frame A, the line of movement being in the same plane with the
movement of the gauge arm F.
In this sleeve Jis mounted the stem m¹ of the hat block M, a set screw m¹
which passes through a vertical slot in the sleeve J¹ and enters the stem, serving to
secure the hat block M at the desired height with relation to the trimming devices.
As the object of my Invention is to trim the curl of the hat brim while it is in
a set and shaped condition, I so mount the hat as to allow of a tipping or tilting
motion being imparted to it in the direction of the length of the hat in order that
the shaped hat with its dipping brows and upward curves on the sides, may
accommodate itself to the various positions in feeding past a fixed cutting point.
For this purpose I mount the block in a horizontal pivot m² on its stem m, this
pivoting centre being preferably in line with the highest point of the curved sides
of the hat brim-The construction of the hat block itself, it is not necessary to
illustrate or describe in detail as it may be of any well known or suitable
construction provided it is so connected to its stem or carrier as to be free to have
the described tilting movement.
...
The gear wheels and e may be of the same size but I prefer to make the
wheel twice the size of the pinion é as in that case, the form of the cam E, will

page_text: be simpler, that is single) making two revolutions, for one revolution of the nat.
This is permissible, since one half of the hat brim is simply a duplicate of the
other.
This pattern cam may have any desired contour according to the required shape
of the curl-It may be shaped to trim the curl in a flattened oval, with its greatest
width at the sides and narrowest at the brows or vice versa, or in any irregular
outline desired.
The pattern cam can be adjusted vertically on the shaft E¹ and secured in
position after adjustment by a set screw e¹ having its point adapted to enter a key
seat in the vertical shaft E¹. The gauge arm F being pivoted to the frame at fl
this adjustment of the cam on its shaft will consequently increase or diminish the
extent of movement imparted to the arm and its gauge plate by the cam.
'
When the longest radius of the cam is acting on the arm F, the inner face of the
said arm is parallel with the shaft E so that the adjustment of the cam on its
shaft will not affect the depth of cut at the brows of the hat which at that position
of the cam are being trimmed.
The gauge plate has a narrow rounded edge as shown in Figure 8 and is
adjustable on its carrying arm F by having a mounted screw pivot f' while a
retaining screw f³ passing through a segmental slot in the plate, allows of the
freeing of the plate to insert the hat brim over the foot H for trimming and for
removal.
The guide bar G is rounded at its outer end on the underside and projects
slightly over the point of the foot and acts as an upper guide for the curl of the
brim, while following the movements of the gauge plate.
This arm may be made rigid or yielding, vertically. If rigid it is set sufficiently
above the foot to allow of the passage of the felt of the hat. If yielding it may
act as a presser foot.
If desired a flat spring may be combined with the guide plate and foot as
indicated at G-In figure 3 to keep the brim of the hat up to its, work.
Instead of having a foot H which is fixed to the frame of the machine, for the
cutting tool to act against, I may dispense with this foot and make use of the
metallic formers or curls which have been used to curl the brim, as described for
instance, in the Patent of Kelsey June 27th 1882 N° 260,298. In such cases these
formers P, are simply left in place under the curl as shown in Figure 14 until the
trimming is completed.
In some instances, where the felt of the hat is somewhat soft, I may make use
of a pair of blocks O. carried by a spring yoke O¹. Figure 16 or a hinged and
adjustable yoke 02, Figure 17, to slip under the side curls to keep them stiff and
form a backing for the side curls in pushing them up against the gauge plate-
These blocks may be used in addition to the foot H.
-
I do not limit myself to any special form of trimming device, since by simple
adaptation, any of the well known forms may be used. Where a reciprocating
cutter is used I prefer to make its cutting edge of the gougé shape shown in
Figure 6 with its concave outline towards the edge of the brim of the hat and
when in its lowest position entering a suitable opening in the foot H. With this
by driving the cutter arm B¹ at high speed I am able to make a clean smooth cuit
on the inner edge of the curl, notwithstanding the cutting is on the inner arc of a
circle and notwithstanding the movement of the hat is towards and from the cutter
in passing the quarters from the sides to the brows. If a straight edge cutter
were used, it would give a hacked edge to the curl at those points while the
rounded form of cutter makes a clean cut.
"
For convenience I make the gouge-shaped cutter of a hollow steel tube, and
grind it away at the point as shown in Figure 6 and as a convenient metliod of
securing the cutter in its holder B¹ I bore a hole in the outer end of the latter,
split it, and by means of a set screw draw the jaws thus formed together, to grasp
the cutter (Figure 6).
_ J.
3

page_text: A straight edged cutter may be used however provided it is constructed so as to
turn in its holder or hearing, in order to change the direction of the line of cut as
illustrated in the modification Figures 10 and 11, in which the stem 6' of the
cutter is adapted to a bearing in the end of the carrying arm and is provided with
a handle b' by which the line of cut may be changed.-In this modification the
arm which carries the cutter may be either stationary or have a reciprocating.
movement imparted to it.
The trimmer B instead of having a sharp cutting edge, may have a rounded
comparatively blunt one, as in the modification Figure 12, and a feed p may be
added to move the work along, Rotary movement may be imparted to this triminer
through any suitable gear, in this instance through the bevel wheels 1. 2. 3 and 4
from a belt pulley 5.
A trimmer of the construction described in order to make a clean cut at the
quarters in passing from the sides to the brows, should be free to have its line of
movement changed. For this purpose the portion A² of the frame which carries
the cutter and its intermediate gear wheels, is swivelled at v to the fixed portion of
the frame A¹ perpendicularly above the contact point of the trimmer, as shown so
that it may be freely turned to change the line of cut without interfering with
the driving of the cutter-The bearing 6 for the trimmer end of the cutter shaft 7
may be adjusted with reference to the foot H, by means of a milled nut 8, in a
recess in the frame A² and adapted to a threaded stem 9 which carries the said
bearing-In this modification the end of the guide plate G is suitably shaped to
leave free scope for the rotary trimmer B, which severs the felt on the desired line
either by the pressing or rolling action on the foot H or if it, has a sharp knife
edge by cutting the same.
The driving shaft of the machine may be placed at any convenient point on the
frame In the construction shewn in Figures 1 and 2 this shaft T is arranged
horizontally at the lower part of the frame and carries at one end the fast and
loose pulleys t t and at the other end a belt or grooved pulley S whence motion is
transmitted by a cord or belt passing over a pulley to the eccentric or crank
shaft D for driving the reciprocating trimmer.
In general the hat and hat block are turned by the hand of the operator to trim
the brim curl and as the cam E is cut to the proper pattern and moves in contact
with the hat carrier through the gearing, it insures the trimming to the desired
regular outline as described."
The power used to drive the cutting device may also be applied to impart the
necessary trimming motion to the hat and cam shaft.
A means for carrying this into effect is illustrated in Figure 13 a worm wheel 10
being attached to the lower end of the cam shaft E¹ or to the shaft I and into this
gears a worm 11, on a shaft which may be driven from the main shaft of the
machine by a belt or gear.
Instead of varying the relative positions of the trimmer and gauge to vary the
depth of cut or width or curl trimmed by moving the gauge and with it the hat
towards or from the trimmer, the same result may be accomplished by moving
the trimmer towards and from a fixed gauge as in the construction shewn in
Figure 15.
In this case the cutter holder B₁ instead of being pivoted to the head of the
frame is pivoted to the upper end of the arm F the position of which is controlled
by the pattern cam E in the same way as the arm F is controlled in the
construction shown in Figure 3 as will be readily understood without further
description. In this case the gauge F¹ is stationary but adjustable as in the other
constructions.
I do not wish to confine myself to a machine in which the hat turns past a fixed
cutting point as it will be obvious that the machine may be so constructed that the
trimming devices may travel around the hat, which does not revolve-In the
moditication illustrated in Figure 18 for instance I have shown a machine of such
a construction-The tube J in which is mounted the stem m'of the hat block is in

page_text: une
this case a fixed part of the frame and on this as a standard is mounted
frame A³ which carries the cutting or trimming mechanism-The frame A³ has
collars a a adapted to turn on the tubular standard J¹ and to this is hinged at the
lower end the swinging frame K' carrying at its upper end the cutting or trimming
devices which may be similar to any of those described above. The shaft E¹ of
the cam E which controls the relative positions of the cutter and gauge, as in other
cases, is adapted to bearings in the frame and is connected through a rod J' and
universal joints to a short shaft carrying a pinion e³ gearing into a fixed pinion i³
on the tubular standard or frame-A spring K may be used to tend to bring the
arm K and its devices up to the hat carrier. By traversing the frame A³ with its
swinging frame K2 around the tubular standard by means of the handle a¹ it will
be readily understood from the foregoing description that, in this case the position
of the bat with relation to the cutting point will, through the medium of the cam
control the depth of cut and so insure the trimming of the curl of the hat to the
desired outline-In this case also the hat is so mounted that it can have a tipping
or tilting motion in the direction of its length to accommodate the curve of the sides
and the dip of the brows to the height of the cutting point as will be understood
by reference to the drawing, Figure 18 which illustrates the position of the hat
when the brow is being trimmed.
In the preferred construction of machine illustrated in Figures 1. 2, 3 and 4
I mount on the opposite end of the shaft D from that carrying the pulley dan
emery or other grinding wheel Q Figure 4 which at the same time that it serves
for sharpening the cutter, is also useful as a handle to impart any necessary slight
movement to the trimming devices, when the machine is out of operation.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said
Invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is
First For trimming the brims of hat curls after they have been shaped and set
& while they remain so an organized machine, substantially as described in which
the position of the outer edge of the hat in relation to the trimming devices
automatically determines the distance of the line of trimning from the edge of
the hat.
Second For the trimming of hat brim curls after they have been set and while
they remain so an organized machine substantially as described in which a tipping
motion is imparted to the hat in the direction of its length during the trimming
operation and in which the position of the outer edge of the hat in relation to the
trimming devices automatically determines the distance of the line of trimming
from the edge of the hat.
Third An organized machine for trimming the curls of hat brims to any desired
outline, after they have been shaped and set and while they remain so substantially
as specified.
Fourth An organized machine for trimming the curls of hat brims, which have
been shaped and set to a regular outline, the said machine having a trimmer and
gauge and a hat support, controlling the relation of the gauge and trimmer to
regulate the line of cut substantially as described.
Fifth An organized machine for trimming the curls of hat brims, which have
been shaped and set to a regular outline, the said machine having a trimmer and
gauge and a rotary hat support controlling in its movement the relation of the
gauge and trimmer to regulate the line of cut substantially as described.
Sixth An organized machine for trimming the curls of hat brims which have
been shaped and set to a regular outline, said machine having a trimmer and gauge
and a cam to vary the depth of cut and a hat support with which the cam is
adapted to move in concert substantially as set forth.
Seventh-In a machine for trimming hat brims after they have been set and
shaped the combination of a trimmer and a movable gauge, with a pattern cam
acting on said movable gauge to vary the depth of cut as described.

page_text: Eighth In a machine for trimming hat brims after they have been set and
shaped the combination of a trimmer, a movable gauge, and a pattern cam to act on
said gauge to vary the depth of cut, with a hat support, with which the cam is
adapted to move in concert substantially as described.
Ninth In a machine for trimming the brims of hats which have been shaped
and set, the combination of a trimmer and hat support, with a movable gauge for
the outer edge of the hat, controlled in relation to the cutter by the position of the
bat in passing the cutter substantially as specified.
Tenth In an organized machine for trimming the brims of hats, which have
been shaped and set the combination of a trimmer and gauge with a hat support,
free to tip or tilt the hat in the direction of its length substantially as and for the
purpose set forth.
Eleventh In a machine for trimming the brims of hats which have been shaped
and set, the combination of a fixed frame and a trimmer and gauge thereon with a
swinging frame carrying a hat support substantially as set forth.
Twelfth In a machine for trimming the brims of hats which have been shaped
and set, the combination of a fixed frame, a trimmer and gauge and a cam acting
on said gauge to regulate the depth of cut with a moveable frame carrying the hat
support and having its line of movement in the same plane with that of the gauge
substantially as specified.
Thirteenth In a machine for trimming the brims of hats which have been
shaped and set, the combination of a fixed frame, a trimmer and gauge and a
movable support for said trimmer with a cam controlling the position of the latter
and a hat support controlling said cam substantially as described.
Fourteenth In a machine for trimming the brims of hats which have been shaped
and set, the combination of a fixed frame a triminer and gauge, with a movable
frame and a hat support vertically adjustable therein substantially as set forth.
Fifteenth In a machine for trimming the brims of hats which have been shaped
and set, the combination of a movable hat support, trimmer and gauge with a cam
controlling the depth of cut and adjustable with reference to the device acted on,
to alter the cut substantially as specified.
Sixteenth In a machine for trimming the brims of hats which have been shaped
and set, the combination of a movable bat support and cam controlled thereby with
a trimmer and gauge and a pivoted arm carrying said gauge or trimmer, the cam
being adjustable towards and from the pivot of the said arm as specified.
Seventeenth-In a machine for trimming the brims of hats after they have been
set the combination of a hat support, trimmer and cam controlling the depth of cut,
with a gauge arm and a gauge adjustable thereon substantially as described.
Eighteenth In a machine for trimming the brims of hats the combination of a
hat support, trimmer and movable gauge with a guide plate for the movable gauge
substantially as set forth.
Nineteenth-In a machine for trimming the brims of hats, the combination of a
frame, a trimmer and supporting foot for the latter, with a gauge and a controlling
and a guide plate, which also serves to keep the curl of the brim on the
support substantially as specified.
cam,
Twentieth-In a machine for trimming the brims of hats, the combination of a
trimmer a hat support and gauge with an arm carrying said gauge or trimmer a
pattern cam controlling the arm, and a retractor to keep the arm up to the cam
substantially as set forth.
Twenty-first-The combination of the fixed frame trimmer and gauge and cam
controlling the depth of cut and cam shaft with a supporting frame pivoted to
the fixed frame, gearing and shafting to transmit the motion of the hat support
to the cam shaft and a universal joint at the pivoting point of the movable frame,
substantially as set forth.
Twenty-second-The combination of the fixed frame, trimmer and gauge with a
movable frame a vertically adjustable stem therein and a hat block pivoted to the
said stem so as to be free to have a tilting motion thereon.substantially as specified,

page_text: Twenty-third In a machine for trimming the brims of hats, the combination of
a hat support and gauge, with a swivelled frame carrying a rotary trimmer and a
foot to cut against substantially as setforth.
Twenty-fourth-In a machine for trimming the brims of hats constructed
substantially as described, a rotary cutter substantially as setforth.
Twenty-fifth-In a machine for trimming the brims of hats constructed sub-
stantially as described a rotary trimmer arranged to separate the material by
pressure substantially as set forth.
Twenty-sixth-An organized machine for trimming to a desired outline, the
brim of a hat after it has been shaped and set wherein the outer edge of the curl
of said brim and the revolution of said hat on its centre determine the line of
trimming substantially as described.
Twenty-seventh-An organized machine for trimming the brim of a hat after it
has been shaped and set wherein the revolution of the hat around its centre makes
a corresponding adjustment of the relation of a gauge and trimming device
substantially as described.
Twenty-eighth-An organized machine for trimming the brims of a hat after it
has been shaped and set wherein said brin during the process of trimming may be
revolved past a fixed cutting point substantially as described.