Improvements in the Weaving of Double Pile Fabrics Face to Face, and in Means or Apparatus Employed therein.
Year: 1893

page_text: Date of Application, 30th Oct., 1893
Complete Specification Left, 24th Aug., 1894-Accepted, 20th Oct., 1894
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Weaving of Double Pile Fabrics Face to Face,
and in Means or Apparatus Employed therein.
We JOHN CLOUGH, of Grove Mills, Keighley, in the County of York, Spinner
and Manufacturer, and JOHN PARK, of 16 East View Terrace, Skipton, in the
said county, Designer do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as
follows:-
This invention relates to the weaving of what are known as Utrecht velvets,
mohair plushes and other pile fabrics the pile of which is designed to be cut
eventually and the weaving is of the character known as double or face to face
weaving the pile threads passing through in the weaving from cloth to cloth and
these threads are severed to separate the cloths and form the pile.
In carrying out our invention we weave the original ground two picks up and
two picks down, an additional end of ground warp is added beyond the ground warp
in general use-to each cloth which additional ground warp is woven three picks
up and one down; or three picks to the face and one to the back of the cloth, by
preference that pick being thrown to the back following the pick which catches the
pile warp after crossing from the one cloth to the other.
Or, the additional end of ground warp may alternatively be caught on either of the
other three picks, four picks constituting a round of the ground warp.
By the employment of this additional ground warp in this way, the pile threads
which in the weaving cross one the other between the two cloths are pressed into a
substantially upright position, or at right angles to the ground of the cloth, in the
beat up and an additional firmness is attained in the ground and the pile threads
are much more firmly held into the cloth and honey combing or streakiness is
avoided, with great gain in beauty of the finished fabric.
This method of manufacture when applied to silk, in which some of the defects
arising in weaving according to the old methods, can be eradicated in the finishing,
serves to reduce the expense of such finishing.
us,
The weaving of Utrecht velvet, according to the ordinary practice as known to
is effected with the employment of eight shafts, for manufacture as a double
cloth or by equivalent drafting of multiples of that number, but according to our
present invention we employ twelve shafts, or equivalent multiple drafting..
The operation of these shafts may be effected by means of tappets or other
suitable shedding mechanism.
By these means we obtain a cloth which as the result of the weaving has a more
regular face and is not characterized by the defects referred to and that by the
employment of simple mechanism avoiding the requirement of skilled labour in the
attendant.
Dated the 20th dow of Ontoher 1802
WM. BROOKES & SON,
55 & 56, Chancery Lane, London, Agents for the Applicants.

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Weaving of Double Pile Fabrics Face to Face,
and in Means or Apparatus Employed therein.
We JOHN CLOUGH, of Grove Mills, Keighley, in the County of York, Spinner
and Manufacturer, and JOHN PARK, of 16 East View Terrace, Skipton in the
said county Designer do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement :-
This invention relates to the weaving of what are known as Utrecht velvets,
mohair plushes and other pile fabrics the pile of which is designed to be cut
eventually and the weaving is of the character known as double or face to face
weaving the pile threads passing through in the weaving from cloth to cloth and
these threads are severed to separate the cloths and form the pile.
In carrying out our invention we weave the original ground two picks up and
two picks down, a "guard" warp thread or additional end of ground warp is added
beyond the ground warp in general use to each cloth which additional ground warp
is woven three picks up and one down; or three picks to the face and one to the
back of the cloth, by preference that pick being thrown to the back following
the pick which catches the pile warp after crossing from the one cloth to
the other.
Or the additional end of ground warp may alternatively be caught on either of the
other three picks, four picks constituting a round of the ground warp.
By the employment of this additional ground warp in this way, the pile.threads
which in the weaving cross one the other between the two cloths are pressed into a
substantially upright position, or at right angles to the ground of the cloth, in the
beat up and an additional firmness is attained in the ground and the pile threads
are much more firmly held into the cloth and honey combing or streakiness is
avoided, with great gain in beauty of the finished fabric.
This method of manufacture when applied to silk, in which some of the defects
arising in weaving according to the old methods, can be eradicated in the finishing,
serves to reduce the expense of such finishing.
The weaving of Utrecht velvet according to the ordinary practice as known to
us, is effected with the employment of eight shafts, for manufacture as a double
cloth or by equivalent drafting of multiples of that number, but according to our
present invention we employ twelve shafts, or equivalent multiple drafting.
The operation of these shafts may be effected by means of tappets or other
suitable shedding mechanism.
By these means we obtain a cloth which as the result of the weaving has a more
regular face and is not characterized by the defects referred to and that by the
employment of simple mechanism avoiding the requirement of skilled labour in the
attendant..
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.
Fig. 1 shews by a diagram the arrangement of the tappets when weaving our
improved double plush.
Fig. 2 by a diagram indicates the back of the cloth of the top piece of the double
pile fabric the crosses shew where the warp passes over the weft and the cyphers
shew where the weft passes over the warp.
Fig. 3 is a looming draft for the improved fabric, the six ends A being in one
reed and the 6 ends B in another reed. Those numbered 1 and 2 of the series A
are guard ends, 3 and 4 are pile ends and 5 and 6 are ground ends and so on

page_text: Fig. 4 is a diagram representing the pile surface of the fabric after the pile has
been cut through.
It will be seen that the additional ground warps a are each woven three picks up
and one down or three picks to the face and one pick to the back of the cloth.
The ordinary ground warps b are each woven two picks up and two picks down,
c indicates the pile warps.
In order that the invention may be the better understood by persons skilled in
the art of weaving we have shown by way of illustration drawings of a pair of
tappets (Figs. 5 and 6) of which there will be two pairs, one pair for each set of
shafts.
In the rotation of the tappet Fig. 5 for raising and lowering the healds the
portions C will give three picks down, the portions D give one pick up and the
portions D' give one pick down correspondingly. In the rotation of the tappet
Fig. 6 the portions C¹ will give three picks up, the portions D give one pick up and
the portions D' give one pick down. The tappets shown in Figs. 5 and 6 are for
operating the new guard warps-the other tappets being shewn by Figs. 7, 8 and 9.
t¹, t³, t³, tª¸¸tº, tº, t³, to, to, t¹º, t¹¹, ¿¹² indicate respectively the positions of the tappets
when on the cylinder in the loom at the first pick.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we
claim is :-
In the manufacture of double pile fabrics woven face to face.
1. The arrangement in a loom of two or other number, adapted to the equivalent
multiple drafting adopted, of pairs of cams formed as illustrated by the pair of
cams Figs. 5 and 6 of the accompanying drawings for the purpose of actuating the
shafts or healds as required in order to produce a pile fabric woven as hereinbefore
described and illustrated by Fig. 4.
2. A pile fabric woven as herein before described with reference to Fig. 4 of the
accompanying drawings, that is to say a pile fabric woven with a guard warp thread
besides the ordinary ground warp between each pile warp, each additional pile warp
being woven with three picks to the face and one pick to the back whilst the
ordinary ground warp has two picks to the face and two picks to the back with the
aid of suitably arranged weft threads as and for the purpose set forth.
Dated the 24th day of August. 1894
WM. BROOKES & SON,
55 & 56, Chancery Lane, London, Agents for the Applicants.