Improvements in Hem Stitch Sewing Machines.
Year: 1897

page_text: PROVISIONAL SITUITIATIVA
Improvements in Hem Stitch Sewing Machines.
I, GEORG BAUM, of Rorschach, near St. Gallen, Switzerland, Machine-Maker,
do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to an improved hem stitch sewing machine which is more
reliable in action and will produce more work than those hitherto in use. The
same has two needles, a piercer and a shaper which are arranged behind each
other in the direction of the feed, the needles being positioned between the piercer
and the shaper. Each of the elements. named (piercer, needles, shaper) is the
length of a stitch (distance of two hem holes) apart from the adjacent one, the
piercer being thus three stitch lengths apart from the shaper. In this manner four hem
holes are constantly worked, the piercer forming a hole, whilst the needles are
stitching a second and a third hole and the shaper finishes a fourth stitched hole.
By the use of the shaper the hem stitch or each hem hole is formed neater in
appearance, i.e. more regular in form as is the case in embroidery machines. The
needles are rendered laterally movable in such a manner that for the formation of
the outer stitches of the hem holes, they can be moved outwards and after having
performed work back again inwards into line (with the piercer and shaper) in
the direction of the feed.
And in order that my invention may be more fully understood I have caused to
be appended hereunto four sheets of drawings, marked with letters of reference
indicating like parts in the various figures, showing one form of my improved
hem stitch sewing machine.
Fig. 1 is a back view, Fig. 2 a view from below and Fig. 3 a vertical section at
line
of Fig. 1, Fig. 4 a front view of the needle bar and needle adjust-
ment mechanism, the needles being in their outer position out of line and the
relative positions of the needles, piercer and shaper shown diagrammatically in
the plan.
Fig. 5 shows the same parts as Fig. 4, but the needles are positioned inwards
in line with the..piercer. and shaper which in the present instance however are
raised out of use.
Fig. 6 is a side view of Fig. 5.
Fig. 7a plan of the partition between the shuttle races.
Fig. 8 is a vertical cross section on line y-y of Fig. 7.
Fig. 9 is a plan of the needle plate, Fig. 10 of the presser foot, and Fig. 11
is a diagram of the stitches showing the three various periods of work.
In carrying out this invention, upon the needle bar A is secured by means of
a split ring a support a furnished at the front and back with a stiletto, one
To the side cars a¹, a² of
of which is the piercer b and the other, the shaper s.
the support a are pivoted the angular levers a³, a', the upper longer arms of which

page_text: are bent back at right angles and carry rods c1, c2 pointing upwards, whilst the
lower shorter arms carry the clips a, as which hold the needles n¹ & n² respectively.
The points of the stilettoes, i.e. the piercer b and the shaper s, are positioned
exactly behind each other in the direction of the feed indicated in Fig. 3 by the
arrow, and the needles n', n² are between the same, each needle being the distance
cf a stitch length apart from the other and from the adjacent stiletto, thus the
piercer and shaper are in the direction of the feed three stitch lengths apart from each
other. The needles are laterally movable for the purpose of forming the octer
stitches of the hem holes when moved, from the position shown in Fig. 5 in
which they are in a line with the stilettoes behind each other in the direction of
the feed, sideways into the position shown in Fig. 4, in which they are out of
line with the stilettoes; after the needles have performed their work in that
position they are moved back into line or their normal position.
The lateral movement of the needles is effected by the toggle levers d, d
&, which have eyes do near their joints to. which are pivoted the rods c', c².
As these toggle levers are caused to move from or towards each other the shorter
arms of the angular levers a³, a will leave or approach each other, i.e. the needles
will be brought out of or in line with each other. The said levers are opened
by means of au eccentric e which is fixed upon a side shaft w rotated by means
of tooth wheels from the main shaft w and which acts upon a nose f¹ secured to
the sliding rod f vertically guided in the head of the machine and to which the
upper levers d, of the toggle levers are pivoted whilst the lower levers, are
jointed to a pivot on the head of the machine. The rod f is raised by means
of the eccentric e and the said toggle opened thereby; the descent of the rod and
closing of the toggle take place selfactingly through the influence of a spring f
bearing against the upper end of the sliding rod f and which compresses when
the rod rises. The eccentric e, is rendered adjustable on the shaft and has
several lifts; in the present instance three c', e, e, each of which can be brought
under the nose f¹ of the rod f into action.
It will thus be seen that the needles can be set to work at three different widths
outwards as may be required and thereby form a narrow or wide stitch. It is
obvious that the lowest step e¹ of the eccentric e will form the smallest and the
highest step the relatively widest stitch, whilst a stitch of medium width can
be formed with the eccentric c². As in most hem stitch sewing machines, the
fabric is pierced thrice between two feeds, viz. in order corresponding with that
of the stitches, a piercing and binding with needles in their normal position in
a line behind each other (first inner stitch) then a piercing and binding with
needles in their outer position (outer stitch of the hem) and finally a piercing
and binding with the needles in their inner position (second inner stitch of the
hem).
The front needle n¹ in conjunction with the shuttle $1 (Fig. 3) in the left race
effects the stitching and binding on the right side of the hem holes (row of
stitches 1) and the back needle 2 in conjunction with the shuttle S the stitching
and binding on the left side (row of stitches II), as shown in the diagram Fig. 11,
the needles working always according to their relative position the distance of a
hem element apart from each other. Thus between two feeds the right hand
needle forms the stitches 1, 2, 3, in row I, the back left hand needle the
stitches 1, 2, 3, in row II, whilst the piercer forms a hole in front of the needle n
and the shaper finishes the hem hole behind the needle as shown in the diagram.
To prevent the threads from becoming entangled, the plate g of the presser foot
has besides the holes g, g for the piercer and shaper, a slot like hole g¹, g for
cach needle. The needle plate H over the shuttle races has in its bridge also
holes corresponding with those in the plate of the presser foot, h³, * being for
the piercer and shaper and h¹, h² for the needles n¹, n².
The machine is a reciprocating shuttle sewing machine.
Eetween the two shuttle, races s¹, sa longitudinal plate P, Figs. 7 & 8, is
arranged serving as partition which is not divided in the middle as in other

page_text: machines, but forms one piece and has in the middle on each side a groove p³,
respectively for the reception of the needles, the upper edges of these grooves
being bevelled off to prevent friction on the threads. By the said construction
of plate it is impossible for the threads to get entangled as is the case with
divided plates.
The shuttles are arranged in their races with their points opposing each other
and their shuttle carriers have a to and fro motion imparted in opposite directions
by means of the differential crank K and the connecting rods k¹, .
The differential crank K is actuated from the vertical shaft 2 which is rotated
by means of the bevel wheels 2, 3, from the main shaft . The piercer and the
shaper are attached to the support a by means of the hinges 1 & 12 in such a
manner that they can be brought out of use at will without removing the same.
They are retained in their working positions by means of headed screws m² & m²
which pass through the hinge slots 1° and the heads of which are turned at right
angles thereto (Fig. 4) whilst when turned in line with the said slots they per-
mit of lifting the hinges, (Figs. 5 & 6).
In the present machine the fabric to be sewn is fed by means of a band T con-
sisting of links which are hinged together and carried over rollers Q. Q' formed
on their periphery with corresponding support surfaces and actuated by suitable
mechanism, groove like recesses being formed between the said support surfaces
for the reception of the hinges of the links.
Dated this 22nd day of October 1897.
F. BOSSHARDT & Co.,
Agents to Applicant.
I, GEORG BAUM, of Rorschach, near St. Gallen, Switzerland, Machine-Maker,
do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to
be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:-
The
This invention relates to an improved hem stitch sewing machine which is more
reliable in action and will produce more work than those hitherto in use.
same has two needles, a piercer and a shaper which are arranged behind each
other in the direction of the feed, the needles being positioned between the piercer
and the shaper. Each of the elements named (piercer, needles, shaper) is the
length of a stitch (distance of two hem holes) apart from the adjacent one, the
piercer being thus three stitch length apart from the shaper. In this manner four hem
holes are constantly worked, the piercer forming a hole, whilst the needles are
stitching a second and a third hole and the shaper finishes a fourth stitched hole.
By the use of the shaper the hem stitch or each hem hole is formed neater in
appearance, i.e. more regular in form as is the case in embroidery machines. The
needles are rendered laterally movable in such a manner that for the formation of
the outer stitches of the hem holes, they can be moved outwards and after having
performed work back again inwards into line (with the piercer and shaper) in
the direction of the feed.
And in order that my invention may be more fully understood I have caused to
he appended hereunto four sheets of drawings, marked with letters of reference
indicating like parts in the various figures, showing one form of my improved
hem stitch sewing machine.

page_text: Fig. 1 is a back view, Fig. 2 a view from below and Fig. 3 a vertical section at
line of Fig. 1, Fig. 4 a front view of the needle bar and needle adjust-
ment mechanism, the needles being in their outer position out of line and the
relative positions of the needles, piercer and shaper shown diagrammatically in
the plan.
Fig. 5 shows the same parts as Fig. 4, but the needles are positioned inwards
in line with the piercer and shaper which in the present instance however are
raised out of use.
Fig. is a side view of Fig. 5.
Fig. 7a plan of the partition between the shuttle races.
Fig. 8 is a vertical cross section on line y-y of Fig. 7.
Fig. 9 is a plan of the needle plate, Fig. 10 of the presser foot, and Fig. 11
is a diagram of the stitches showing the three various periods of work.
In carrying out this invention, upon the needle bar A is secured by means of
a split ring a support a furnished at the front and back with a stiletto, one-
of which is the piercer and the other the shaper s. To the side cars a', a² of
the support are pivoted the angular levers, the upper longer arms of which
are bent back at right angles and carry rods et, pointing upwards, whilst the
lower shorter arms carry the clips a", a" which hold the needles & n² respectively,
The points of the stilettoes, ie. the piercer and the shapers, are positioned
exactly behind each other in the direction of the feed indicated in Fig. 3 by the
arrow, and the needles a', are between the same, each needle being the distance
of a stitch length apart from the other and from the adjacent stiletto, thus the
piercer and shaper are in the direction of the feed three stitch lengths apart from each
other. The needles are laterally movable for the purpose of forming the enter
stitches of the hem holes when moved, from the position shown in Fig. 6 in
which they are in a line with the stilettoes in the direction of the feed, sideways
into the position shown in Fig. 4, in which they are out of line with the stilettoes:
after the needles have performed their work in that position they are moved back
into line or their normal position.
The lateral movement of the needles is effected by the toggle levers d, d'
&, which have eyes near their joints to which are pivoted the rods c', c².
As these toggle levers are caused to move from or towards each other the shorter
arms of the angular levers a³, will leave or approach each other, i.e. the needles
will be brought out of or in line with each other. The said levers are opened
by means of an eccentric e which is fixed upon a side shaft rotated by means
of tooth wheels from the main shaft and which acts upon a nose f¹ secured to
the sliding rod f vertically guided in the head of the machine and to which the
upper levers d, of the toggle levers are pivoted whilst the lower levers d', d' are
jointed to a pivot on the head of the machine. The rod f is raised by means
of the eccentric and the said toggle opened thereby the descent of the rod and
closing of the toggle take place self-actingly through the influence of a spring f
bearing against the upper end of the sliding rod f and which compresses when
the rod rises. The eccentric e. is rendered adjustable on the shaft and has
several lifts; in the present instance three el. ², each of which can be brought
under the nose f' of the rod f into action.
It will thus be seen that the needles can be set to work at three different widths
outwards as may be required and thereby form a narrow or wide stitch. It is
obvious that the lowest step e' of the eccentric e will form the smallest and the
highest step the relatively widest stitch, whilst a stitch of medium width can
be formed with the eccentric e. As in most hem stitch sewing machines, the
fabric is pierced thrice between two feeds, ris. in order corresponding with that
of the stitches, a piercing and binding with needles in their normal position in
a line (first inner stitch) then a piercing and binding with needles in their outer
position (outer stitch of the hem) and finally a piercing and binding with the
needles in their inner position (second inner stitch of the hem).
The front needle n' in conjunction with the shuttle St (Fig. 3) in the left race

page_text: effects the stitching and binding on the right side of the hem holes (row of
stitches I) and the back needle n³ in conjunction with the shuttle $2 the stitching
and binding on the left side (row of stitches II), as shown in the diagram Fig. 11, 1
the needles working always according to their relative position the distance of a
hem element apart from each other. Thus between two feeds the right hand
needle forms the stitches 1, 2, 3, in row I, the back left hand needle the
stitches 1, 2, 3, in row II, whilst the piercer forms a hole in front of the needle n¹
and the shaper finishes the hem hole behind the needle n² as shown in the diagram.
To prevent the threads from becoming entangled, the plate g of the presser foot
has besides the holes g, g for the piercer and shaper, à slot like hole g¹, g for
each needle. The needle plate H over the shuttle races has in its bridge also
holes corresponding with those in the plate of the presser foot, 3, 4 being for
the piercer and shaper and h¹, 2 for the needles n³, n².
The machine is a reciprocating shuttle sewing machine.
Between the two shuttle races s', a longitudinal plate P, Figs. 7 & 8, is
arranged serving as partition which is not divided in the middle as in other
machines, but forms one piece and has in the middle on each side a groove p¹, p²,
respectively for the reception of the needles, the upper edges of these grooves
being bevelled off to prevent friction on the threads. By the said construction
of plate it is impossible for the threads to get entangled as is the case with
divided plates.
The shuttles are arranged in their races with their points opposing each other
and their shuttle carriers so have a to and fro motion imparted in opposite directions
by means of the differential crank K and the connecting rods %, 12.
The differential crank K is actuated from the vertical shaft 2 which is rotated
by means of the bevel wheels 2, 73, from the main shaft w. The piercer and the
shaper are attached to the support a by means of the hinges & in such a
manner that they can be brought out of use at will without removing the same.
They are retained in their working positions by means of headed screws m¹ & m²
which pass through the hinge slots 70 and the heads of which are turned at right
angles thereto (Fig. 4) whilst when turned in line with the said slots they per-
mit of lifting the hinges, (Figs. 5 & 6).
In the present machine the fabric to be sewn is fed by means of a band T con-
sisting of links which are hinged together and carried over rollers Q, Q' formed
on their periphery with corresponding support surfaces and actuated by suitable
mechanism, groove like recesses being formed between the said support surfaces
for the reception of the hinges of the links.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I wish it to be
understood that I am aware of Letters Patent No. 7906 of 1896, granted to Joseph
Walker, and No. 21871, of 1896 granted to Emanuel Meyer-Nageli, and that I
claim nothing described and claimed in the Specifications of the said Letters
Patent but, I declare that what I claim is;-
-
1st. In a hem stitch sewing machine having two needles, a piercer and a
shaper, the arrangement of the said elements in a line in the direction of the
feed in such a manner, that the needles are between the piercer and the shaper
and each of the said elements (piercer, needles and shaper) one or more stitch lengths
apart from the adjacent one, all substantially as set forth.
2nd. In a hem stitch sewing machine having a piercer, two needles and a shaper
arranged in a line in the direction of the feed, one or more stitch lengths apart
from each other, rendering the said needles laterally movable in such a manner
that they can be set outwards out of line for the purpose of forming the outer
stitches of the hem holes and afterwards back again in line with the piercer and
shaper in the direction of the feed, all substantially as set forth.
3rd. In a hem stitch sewing machine having a piercer, two needles and a shaper
arranged in a line in the direction of the feed, one or more stitch lengths apart
'

page_text: from each other and the said needles being laterally movable, forming in the
presser foot and stitch plate a separate hole for the piercer; shaper and each of
the said needles, for the purpose of preventing the threads entangling, all sub-
stantially as set forth.
4th. In a hem stitch sewing machine having a piercer, two needles and a shaper
arranged in a line in the direction of the feed, one or more stitch lengths apart
from each other and the said needles being laterally movable, the use of a plate
employed between the two shuttle races which serves as a partition and has on
each side a groove for the passage of the respective needles when entering the
fabric, all substantially as and for the purpose-, set forth.
5th. In a hem stitch sewing machine having a piercer, two needles and a shaper
arranged in a line in the direction of the feed, one or more stitch lengths apart
from each other and the said needles being laterally movable, hinging the. said
piercer to the needle bar for the purpose of raising it out of action without having
to remove the same, all substantially as set forth.
6th. In a hem stitch sewing machine having a piercer, two needles and a shaper
arranged in a line in the direction of the feed, one or more stitch lengths apart
from each other and the said needles being laterally movable, hinging the said
shaper to the needle bar for the purpose of raising it out of action without having
to remove the same, all substantially as set forth.
7th. In a hem stitch sewing machine having a piercer, two needles and a shaper
arranged in a line in the direction of the feed, one or more stitch lengths apart
from each other, the said needles being rendered laterally movable by means of
an eccentric, which has a number of lifts and is adapted to be slid on its shaft in
such a manner, that by setting the same in various positions, various widths of
stitches can be formed, all substantially as set forth.
8th. In a hem stitch sewing machine having a piercer, two needles and a shaper
arranged in a line in the direction of the feed, one or more stitch lengths apart
from each other and the said needles being rendered laterally movable, bringing
the needles » & under the influence of the toggle levers ², № & d, d', pivoted
to a vertically movable rod (f) in such a manner that during the up and down
movement of the said rod the said levers, are opened and closed and the needle
carrier connected therewith set correspondingly, all substantially as set forth.
Dated this 21st das fT.... 1900
F. BOSSHARDT & Co.,
4, Corporation Street, Manchester, Agents to Applicant.