IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY FOR PRODUCING TAMBOUR, ORNAMENTAL, AND FESTOON SEAMS WITH ONE AND TWO THREADS
Year: 1877

page_text: PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by Julius Gutmann at the Office of the
Commissioners of Patents on the 20th March 1877.
JULIUS GUTMANN, of Berlin, in the Kingdom of Prussia. "IMPROVEMENTS IN
MACHINERY FOR PRODUCING TAMBOUR, ORNAMENTAL, AND FESTOON SEAMS WITH
ONE AND TWO THREADS."
My improved tambouring, ornamental, and festooning machine works with a
single and with a tambour needle, with one and with two threads, and produces
two kinds of ornamental and festooning seams.
On the accompanying five Sheets of Drawings:-
Figure I., Sheet 1, is an inverted plan of a machine embodying my Invention.
Figure II., Sheet 2, a front elevation.
Figure III., Sheet 3, a back elevation.
Figure IV., Sheet 4, a front end view.
Figure V., Sheet 5, a back end view of same.
Figure VI., Sheet 5, showing the thread applier and thread guide.
And, Figure VII., Sheet 4, the second threads joining.
A indicates the presser foot; B, lever of the thread guide; C, cam shaft; D,
needle bar; E, cam; F, boss for carrying looper spindle; G, lever drawing off the
thread; H, thread regulator; I, thread stretcher or tension disk; K, cam lever for
raising presser bar and moving the stuff; L, double joint of the lever of the thread
guide; M, head or stock of needle; N, socket holder or needle box; O, slide bar for
working needle box; P, presser bar; Q, reel; R, crank; S, upper shaft; T, cog
wheels; U, grooved driving pulley; V, looper; W, guide for needle; X, screw
adjusting the stitches; Z, rocking bar; I; crotchet or hook of the thread guide;
A¹, eccentric for working one thread; A", eccentric for working two threads; B³,
cam plate; B, thread applier; III., pivot for rocking bar; 1V., eyes for the drawer
off of the thread; V., frames producing the tension; VI., disc for the drawing-off'
lever G; VII., of the looper with pivots.
To produce a tambour seam formed with one thread, the thread is first led from

page_text: the reel or bobbin Q between the tension disks, and, as shown on the Drawing,
threaded from back to front into the single needle on the left side. Screw to the
thread-guiding lever B moved by the eccentric disk A¹, the thread-guiding crotchet
I which, beyond the tambour needle, draws the box of thread off the sewing needle
and keeps it on this spot until the tambour needle has passed down through the
stretched loop held by the thread guide.
The motions of the needle bar D, to which the two needles are fixed, are produced
by the cam E fastened outside the machine on the cam shaft C and in communica-
tion with the spring wheel U. When the needles have thus reached their lowest
point and formed, by a slight lift, a loop of thread beyond the stitch plate, the
looper, moved by the eccentric disk B¹, takes up the thread and draws it in front of
the tambour needle, to be taken upwards by the hook of this latter. The con-
struction of the looper V is such, that before the two needles move upward two
small arms or levers joined to it by a spring are pressed forth and stretch the
thread round the tambour needle in such a manner as to force the latter to draw
the thread, by means of its crotchet, in a loop shape through the stuff and the loop
previously formed in the same manner.
When the looper V moves backward, the spring on the same frees itself and
retires, drawing with it the two small arms or levers, which it carries into their
recesses in the looper. In this manner I obtain tambour work, such as has hitherto
only been produced by hand; for the crotchet I lay the thread above and the
looper V below, across the stuff, whereby the tambour seam, formed by the tambour
needle, serves as connection.
In order not to cover the tambour stitch by the cross laid thread, but to keep it
securely above the same, the drawing-off lever G actuated by the disk VI., clinches
the thread hooked by the thread guide round the point of the tambour needle,
before the loop on the tambour needle may be stripped off by the coupling box.
To produce the double-twisted seam by the same machine, take, instead of the
thread-guide hook I, the thread applier B, and, instead of the eccentric disk A¹,
the eccentric disk A, and place them in their respective positions, fixing them by
screws.
If now the machine is threaded in the same way as for the single-twisted scam,
the second thread is drawn from the reel C. (Figure II., Sheet 2) through the hole
in the thread applier, and laid under the presser foot A. By then giving one turn
forward to the spring wheel the machine makes a stitch, whereby the threads join
themselves as with the single-twisted seam, joining the single sewing needle with
the stuff by a thread, and the tambour needle with a loop of the same thread drawn
from below through the stuff.
Meanwhile, the needles having attained their highest position, and the thread-
guide lever B, actuated by the eccentric A", guides the second thread from the left
to the right side, in front of the tight thread between stuff and needles, under the
needle points. This done, the needles leave the highest point and lower themselves
until the crotchet needle, standing a little deeper than the sewing needle, has its
points upon the stuff, so as to clinch or fasten the second thread laid behind it. In
this position the needles stand still, until the lever of the thread applier has guided
the thread from the right side round the tambour needle and to the left, back under
the single needle, and remain in the position until the following stitch.
needles are now passing the stuff and that stitch plato, whereupon the thread is
equally joined by the looper. The needle being now lifted out of the stuff,
carrier advances the same, the length of a given stitch, and the thread guide again
advances the thread; thus the second thread is over-stitched by the two needles, and
stitched in zig-zag shape by the left sewing needle with a quilting stitch, and by
the tambour needle with a tambour stitch.
The
The double-twisted seam I have just described may be produced by means of an
existing sewing machine, the construction of which, however, only permits making
the seam on the edge of the stuff, and can only be used for that purpose, and not

page_text: as a machine for ornamental seams in order to be able to embroider any pattern in
the middle or in any part of the stuff.
With my improved machine the tambour seam with one thread, as well as the
above described double-twisted seam, may be embroidered in any pattern as well
on the edge as in any other part of the stuff, which cannot be done by the machines
now in use.