IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF COLLARS AND WRISTBANDS
Year: 1860

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Richard Charles Newbery, of 4 and 5, President
Street West, Goswell Road, in the County of Middlesex, for the Inven-
tion of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF COLLARS AND WRISTBANDS."
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Richard Charles New-
bery at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition,
on the 30th November 1860.
I, RICHARD CHARLES NEWBERY, of 4 and 5, President Street West,
Goswell Road, in the County of Middlesex, do hereby declare the nature
of the Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF COLLARS AND
WRISTBANDS," to be as follows:-
This Invention has for its object improvements in the manufacture of collars
and wristbands. For this purpose the linen or other suitable woven fabric
used for making collars and wristbands, in place of being made up, as has hereto-
fore been most generally the case, by sewing and stitching, such fabrics are first
surfaced or prepared by their being subjected to processes of enamelling or
satining in like manner to that in which paper and cardboard have long been
prepared; such linen or other suitable woven fabric is then cut up by suitable
cutters into the desired forms for collars and wristbands, and the button holes
formed by simply cutting them. The collars and wristbands are then marked
to imitate stitching.by suitable runners or instruments, as is well understood

page_text: and has long been practised in respect to various articles. In some cases two,
three, or more thicknesses of woven fabrics are first cemented together so as to
get greater substance, and then such cemented fabrics are subjected to the
processes of enamelling or satining, and they are then cut up into the forms of
collars or wristbands, and finished by imitation stitching as above mentioned.
In preparing linen and other woven fabrics in order to render them suitable
for the manufacture of collars and wristbands according to this Invention, the
ordinary preparations now employed in enamelling and satining paper and cart-
board are spread on to such woven fabrics in the manner practised in regard
to paper or cardboard, and when dry and suitably prepared they are passed
between smooth hard rollers, or the fabrics are pressed between plates or glazed
boards and subjected to pressure.
It is not essential that the enamelling and satining preparations used should
be precisely in like proportions to those used for enamelling and satining
paper and cardboard, as in many cases it is desirable-that the surfaces of the
woven fabrics used in the manufacture of collars and wristbands should not he
so bright as is customary with regard to enamelled and satined paper and
card board.
In some cases the woven fabrics used in carrying out this Invention are first
coated with paper, then enamelled or satined, then cut up and formed into collars
and wristbands, and then finished as above explained. It should, however, be
stated that collars and wristbands have before been similarly made of woven
fabrics coated with paper, but not enamelled or satined.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Richard Charles Newbery in the Great Seal Patent Office 2
on the 30th May 1861.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, RICHARD
CHARLES NEWBERY, of 4 and 5, President Street West, Goswell Road, in the
County of Middlesex, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters 3
Patent, bearing date the Thirtieth day of November, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty, in the twenty-fourth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the
said Richard Charles Newbery, Her special licence that I, the said Richard
Charles Newbery, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others 85
as I, the said Richard Charles Newbery, my executors, administrators, and

page_text: assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and
at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully
might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF COLLARS AND WRISTBANDS," upon the
condition (amongst others) that I, the said Richard Charles Newbery, my
executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or
one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the
nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be per-
formed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal. Patent Office
within. six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the
said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Richard Charles Newbery, do hereby.
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to
be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement thereof, that is to say:-
This Invention has for its object improvements in the manufacture of collars
and wristbands. For this purpose the linen or other suitable woven fabric
used for making collars and wristbands, in place of being made up, as
has heretofore been most generally the case, by sewing and stitching, such
fabrics are first surfaced or prepared by their being subjected to processes
of enamelling or satining in like manner to that in which paper and card
board have long been prepared; such linen or other suitable woven fabric
is then cut up by suitable cutters into the desired forms for collars and wrist-
bands, and the button holes formed by simply cutting them. The collars and
wristbands are then marked to imitate stitching by suitable runners or instru-
ments, as is well understood and as has long been practised in respect to various
articles. In some cases two, three, or more thicknesses of woven fabrics are
first cemented together so as to get greater substance, and then such cemented
fabrics are subjected to the processes of enamelling or satining, and they are
then cut up into the forms of collars or wristbands and finished by imitation
stitching as above mentioned.
In preparing linen and other woven fabrics in order to render them
suitable for the manufacture of collars and wristbands according to this
Invention, the ordinary preparations now employed in enamelling and satining
paper and card board are spread on to such woven fabrics in the manner
practised in regard to paper or cardboard, and when dry and suitably prepared
they are passed between smooth hard rollers, or the fabrics are pressed between
plates-or glazed boards and subjected to pressure.

page_text: It is not essential that the enamelling and satining preparations used
should be precisely in like proportions to those used for enamelling and satining
paper and cardboard, as in many cases it is desirable that the surfaces of the
woven fabrics used in the manufacture of collars and wristbands should not
be so bright as is customary with regard to enamelled and satined paper and
cardboard.
In some cases the woven fabrics used in carrying out this Invention are first
coated with paper, then enamelled or satined, then cut up and formed into
collars and wristbands, and then finished as above explained. It should, however;
be stated that collars and wristbands have before been similarly made of
woven fabrics coated with paper, but not enamelled or satined.
Having thus stated the nature of my said Invention, I will proceed more
fully to describe the manner of performing the same.
The woven fabrics used for these purposes I prefer to be of linen or cotton,
though woven fabrics made of other vegetable fibre may be employed,
and I further prefer that the fabrics should be plain or tabby weavings
and not twilled or figure weavings, but this is not essential. The prepara-
tions of satin white and enamel white may be greatly varied, as has been the
case when preparing the surfaces of paper, and such preparations separately
form no part of my Invention. I would remark that I wish it to be understood
that by enamelled or satined surface, I mean a surface the peculiar appearance
and lustre of which are obtained by the application of a pigment thereon, such
as sulphate of barytes, oxide of zinc, and the so-called satin white (alumina,
carbonate, and sulphate of lime), which are capable of taking glaze well
known as an enamel glaze. Other pigments might be used, as for example
the carbonate, sulphate, and other salts of lead, but there are objections to
these on sanitary grounds, but sulphate of strontia might be employed, but the
same is not so well adapted as those which I have before named.
In using satin white or enamel white I usually combine with 1 lb. of the
white about two and a half ounces of curd or other soap and half an ounce
of loaf sugar, and mix the whole with size and water in the ordinary manner
by heat, which compound whilst hot is spread over one or both surfaces of the
woven fabric, which can be most conveniently done by means of a painter's
brush, and the surface is then equallized by what enamellers of paper and card
board call a rounding brush; when dry the woven fabric thus coated is treated
in the same manner as that in which paper or cardboard which has been
similarly coated has heretofore been treated in order to obtain the degree of
smoothness and polish desired, which is by pressure between glazed boards or
plates, or between glazing rollers, all which is well understood by manufacturers

page_text: of enamelled or satined paper and cardboard. The preparation for obtaining
the desired enamelled surfaces to woven fabrics may also be varied, and in
place of size other stiffening material may be used therewith, and such pre-
paration may be tinted with any desired color, and the fabric when coated with
suitable materials or compounds for producing an enamelled or satin surface
may be finished plain or be printed with any desired device or pattern as
fabrics for making collars and wristbands not so coated have before been printed,
and in finishing the fabrics, engraved rollers may be used in place of plain ones
to give the finishing pressure to the surfaces of the coated woven fabrics. The
woven fabrics having been thus coated with suitable preparations for producing
an enamelled or satin surface are then cut out and marked with imitation
stitches as before mentioned, and they are to be folded or pressed over shapes
of the desired forms according to the description of collars or wristbands which
are to be made, all which will readily be understood by makers and getters up
of collars and wristbands such as have heretofore been manufactured by stitch-
ing. I prefer that the woven fabrics used in carrying out my Invention should
not be coated with paper, but they may be so coated and then be enamelled
or satined.
The peculiarity of my Invention consists in the manufacture of collars
and wristbands of woven fabrics having enamelled or satin surfaces.
In witness whereof, I, the said Richard Charles Newbery, have here-
unto set my hand and seal, this Twenty-ninth day of May, in the
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-one.
DIGITADD CHADIES NEIDERY
RICHARD CHARLES NEWBERY
(V.D.)