Improvements in the Manufacture, on the Lace-curtain Machine, of Guipure Lace or like Fabrics.
Year: 1892

page_text: Pate of Application, 16th July, 1892-Accepted, 6th May, 1893
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture, on the Lace-curtain Machine, of
Guipure Lace or like Fabrics.
I FRIEDRICH EMIL THOREY, Manufacturer, of Falkenstein Voigtland, Saxony
in the Empire of Germany, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in
what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascer-
tained in and by the following statement:-
The present invention relates to the production of a new fabric partaking of the
nature of guipure, on curtain-lace machines, without depriving the machines of
their capability of producing the ordinary curtain lace, & without any special
alterations.
The new material thus produced will have the same degree of fineness as curtain
lace made on the same machine.
The essential characteristic of the new material, illustrated by the diagram I, is,
that the pattern thread is not bound by the locking thread at every passage of the
bobbins through the warps, but only at intervals, as may be arranged.
In this diagram, z,, are the pattern threads; y, y, the binding or bobbin threads;
and,, the warp threads; the pattern threads are here represented as tied to the
warp threads by the binding thread at every fourth shot or passage of the bobbins
through the warps.
To effect this, the ordinary curtain machine is furnished with double "jacks
operated in such manner that when the jacks are thrust forward, every pattern
thread lies between two jacks, and the working of the machine is so regulated, that
the bobbin carriages carrying the locking threads work in connection with one of a
pair of jacks, and a pattern thread, alternately.
The jacks are connected to the Jacquard machine in the usual manner, and are,
as shewn in the drawing, so operated as to prevent the pattern threads from going
over to the next threads of the series.
It is necessary to hold the pattern threads stationary during those shots in which
they are not to be tied to the warps, that is, during the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd shots,
and thus prevent their following the lateral movement of the pattern thread guide
bar; but, during that shot or passage of the bobbins through the warps which is to
tie the pattern thread, it must be free to follow the lateral movement of the guide
bar. On those parts of the machine where the jacks are operated as above described,
the fabric produced may be of the character of "filet guipure," as shewn at
diagram I. On that part of the machine where the pattern thread is only taken by
one jack, the other jacks being held back by the jacquard, the fabric shewn at
diagram II may be produced. Hitherto, only the fabrics shewn in diagrams II
and III could be produced on the ordinary curtain machine.
In the accompanying drawings, so much of a Jacquard curtain machine is shewn as
is necessary for the present purpose.
Fig. 1 shews, in front view, the bobbin carriages, combs, thread guide bars, and
jacks. Fig. 2 is a vertical section through these parts; and Fig. 3 a plan view.
Fig. 4 is a similar section to Fig. 2, shewing the pattern thread in place, and
Fig. 6 a corresponding front view.
Figs. 5 and 7 shew a coarser gauge of jacks, suitable for a loose fabric, and
Figs, 8, 9, 10, 11, and 12 are figures illustrating the formation of the fabric
shewn in diagram I.
a¹ a¹ are the ordinary jack needles; a² a² the duplicate or extra needles (Figs. 2
and 4). All the needles are suitably fixed upon a cross beam carried by a lever c,
pivoted upon a fixed shaft b. The lever c is provided with a bowl d, resting on the
periphery of a came on the main shaft.c. On rotating the cam e, the jack needles
will have a to and fro motion imparted to them by means of the acting portion h of

page_text: the cam.
The needles work in the needle-guides, arranged close beneath the
bobbin carriage combs k. The bobbin carriages 9 run in the interstices or spaces
between the combs xxx shewn in Figs. 1, 3, and 6. g is the chain thread guide
bar, and g the pattern thread guide bar; m and n.are the points for carrying up
the twisted threads..
To produce the fabric shewn at diagram I., theroperation of the machine is as
follows After the pattern. threads have been tied to the warps by the passage
of the bobbins through and around the warp threads, the jackneedles ad are
pushed forward and take the pattern threads between them, so that they cannot
follow the movement of the guide bar which moves (Figs. 8, 5 and 6) in the
direction of the arrow f, to the left. The jack needle a', however, prevents tlie
pattern threads from going to the left, and holds it in the 'position' shewn in Fig. 8.
The bobbins g then advance, and pass between the warps; so that the pattern thread'
will be tied by the thread of the bobbin carriage, in passing through the warps
The pattern thread guide bar next moves to the right, along with the thread
guide bar y, as shewn in Fig: 9, and is prevented' from being locked with' the bobbin
thread till the needles are drawn back again by the jacquard.
The warp threads will now lie to the right of the bobbins y, the pattern'threads
remaining; as before, between the jacks' a" a².
The bobbins, now recede, and the pattern threads being held away from the
bobbins, the binding or bobbin 'thread will be lapped around the warp threads only.
The twist is then taken up by the' points' m or n. After the completion of this
lap, the thread' guides g g' move to the left; bringing the warp threads again to the
left hand of the bobbins q, while the pattern threads are retained in their stationary
position, as shewn at Fig. 10. The advance' passage of the bobbins' will cause tlie
threads of the bobbins to again lap around the warp threads only:
The guide bars then return to the position of Fig. 9, and the bobbins recede!
After three passages of the bobbins. (back and forth) have taken place, the 'bobbin
threads have encircled their respective warp threads three times.
q
The jacks are drawn back just before the commencement of the next movement
of the bobbins, so that at the next movement of the guide bars, the pattern threads
will follow their guides, and take the position shewn at Fig: 11, lying across the
warp threads to the left hand. The bobbins now advance through the warps; the
guide bars are moved to the right hand, the pattern threads crossing the warps to
the right; the bobbins then recede through the warps, tying the pattern threads to
the warps. The jacks are now again advanced, and the pattern tlireads held
stationary,, and the movements of the parts being repeated; the pattern threads will
be tied to the warps at every fourth shot or passage of the bobbins' through the
warps.
.
If it is. desired. to produce the ordinary curtain lace in the same machine, then it
is only necessary to draw back and make fast the needles a or to make use of the
jack needle a' in the ordinary manner common to this class of machine."
A looser kind of material can be made in the curtain lace machine with the
ordinary number of jacks, by employing only half the number of bobbin carriages,
as shewn in Figs. 5 and 7; but in this case, half the fineness of the curtain lace is
lost, and therefore double the number of jacks is to be preferred.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that. what. I
claim is.
The production of a fabric similar to guipure lace on a curtain lacè machine,
substantially as described with reference to the accompanying drawings. *.
Dated this 16th day of July 1899"
NEWTON & SON,"
Agents for the" Applicant: