IN SEWING MACHINES
Year: 1868

page_text: LETTERS PATENT
to Jean Hippolyte Dufort, Merchant, and
Dominique Gance, Mechanician, both of 29, Boulevart St. Martin,
Paris, in the French Empire, for the Invention of
IN SEWING MACHINES."
"IMPROVEMENTS
Sealed the 18th September 1868, and dated the 1st April 1868.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Jean Hippolyte
Dufort and Dominique Gance at the Office of the Commissioners
of Patents, with their Petition, on the 1st April 1868.
We, JEAN HIPPOLYTE DUFORT, Merchant, and DOMINIQUE GANCE,
Mechanician, both of 29, Boulevart St. Martin, Paris, in the French
Empire, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN SEWING MACHINES," to be as follows;—
Our Invention relates to improvements in sewing machines more
particularly applicable for sewing gloves and producing a whip stitch
with a single thread.
These improvements are illustrated in the accompanying Drawings,
Figure 1 of which shows a lateral part sectional elevation of the
Price S1

page_text: apparatus provided with the improvements of our Invention; Figure 2,
a front view on the linc F, F, Figure 1; Figure 3, a plan on line D, D,
Figure 1; Figure 4, a vertical section on line C, C, Figure 1; Figure 5
shows a plan of a pair of grippers for operating an ordinary needle in
combination with a comb. The same letters and figures of reference
indicate like parts in all the Figures.
Before explaining the construction and mode of operating the
apparatus we would observe that all machines hitherto employed for
sewing gloves have proved defective (although capable of producing the
various stitches used in this particular manufacture) in consequence
of the disposition or combination of the various parts preventing the
various parts of a glove being put together and sewn with the dexterity
necessary for producing a perfect article. This disadvantage we propose
to remedy by the improved apparatus of our Invention.
The Invention consists in the combination of certain mechanical
means whereby leather and other gloves may be expeditiously put
together in the machine and sewn. We use an ordinary needle with a
single point and eye near the head in which the thread is passed and
held by a slip knot.
In order to put together and hold the parts of a glove in place we
use a comb similar to those generally employed in glove sewing. The
needle is held by two pairs of fingers or grippers or grippers, one pair
being placed on each side of the comb; these fingers or grippers move
alternately backwards and forwards by the aid of suitable cams for the
purpose of passing the needle and its thread completely through the
leather held by the comb. The needle in passing into or through the
leather is received on the other side by a similar pair of fingers or
grippers acting in the same manner as those above mentioned. The
motion of each pair is suitably regulated one with the other. When the
needle has passed its thread through the leather the thread is seized by
rotating fingers fixed on flyers or rotators of conical form placed at each
side of the reed. Immediately after one of these rotating fingers has
seized the thread the finger in turning on its axis pulls the said thread
and tightens the stitch in the same manner as in hand sewing. The glove
or other material to be sewn is placed between a pair of toothed clamps
fixed at the end of a pair of bent arms, one of which is fixed and the
other movable, which apparatus serves to hold the leather in position
and is here referred to as the comb. This comb performs two different

page_text: motions, one in a vertical and the other in a transverse direction, the
transverse motion being required for advancing the comb one tooth after
the needle has passed through the leather and after the formation of
each stitch. This motion is produced by the aid of an endless screw and
nut or socket formed on the fixed arm of the comb. This screw turns
in bearings and is set in motion by a catch acting on the teeth of a
ratchet mounted at one end. The vertical reciprocating up-and-down
motion of the comb is required for producing the whip stitch and is
imparted every time the needle has passed through the leather, the
motion being completed after each return of the needle above the comb
in order to present the material to be sewn in front of or below the
point of the needle. Thus the downward motion of the needle permits
of its passing over the edge of the leather without touching when
presenting its head thereto, while the upward motion of the comb
permits of the needle's perforating the leather in passing through point
foremost. This up-and-down motion of the comb is produced by the aid
of a cam on the principal shaft of the machine, which by its rotary
motion produces the sliding motion of a plate carrying the comb.
Although the generality of sewing machines hitherto constructed
employ one or more needles perforating either vertically or horizontally,
we find this arrangement objectionable in the sewing of gloves, and
construct our apparatus so that the needle may work at an angle
of about 50 degrees to the horizontal line of the table. We also so
combine the various parts of the apparatus that the operator may sew
and put together the various parts of a glove without obstruction
from the mechanism, and also handle the comb with facility and
rapidity.
Having so far described the general features of the improvements
we will now proceed to describe the apparatus with reference to the
accompanying Drawings.
A represents the framing of the machine standing on feet a, a, the
arms b, b, and plate C serving to fix the machine on a wood table B;
D, division plate carrying the comb mechanism and the bevil gearing
in front of the machine; E, plate serving to carry the bevil gearing
at the upper part of the apparatus. These two sets of bevil gearing
are of similar form, and act in the same manner. F, principal shaft
of the machine mounted in bearings d, d, formed on framing A. The
conical pulley A' mounted on the end of shaft F serves by the aid

page_text: of the grooves e, e, to impart more or less rapid rotary motion thereto,
which is communicated by the bevil pinions f, f, to the vertical shaft G
turning in bearings h, h. The comb, as before mentioned, is composed
of two cheeks or plates g, g, in the edge of each of which are cut the
teeth 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, at equal distances apart sufficient to admit of the
needle passing between them. These plates are rigidly fixed at the
end of two curved arms i, k, mounted on an axis j; the arm k is
movable on said axis j, while the arm i is fixed and mounted on an
endless screw H carried by a cylindrical guide I in order to preserve
its parallelism during the motion of the comb in a transverse direction.
J, plate sliding in guides 1, 1, Figure 4, and provided with two
arms m, m, on the ends of which are fixed the bearings n, n, of the
endless screw H and curved arms o, o, carrying the cylindrical guide I.
In order to place the glove or work in the machine the movable jaw
of the comb is raised, when it is at once placed between the cheeks g, g,
and firmly held therein by allowing the movable jaw to fall so as to
grip the edge of the leather, the pressure being produced by a flat
spring p bearing on the fixed arm of the comb. In order to raise
the movable jaw of the comb the foot presses a pedal attached to the
end of a cord or wire ' passing over pullies q, q, its other end being
connected to a ring r carried on a rod s fixed to the movable arm of
the comb. This rod s on which the ring r slides during the motion
of the comb serves for raising the movable jaw of the comb whatever
may be the position of the latter.
It has been before mentioned that in order to produce a whip stitch
two movements of the comb in opposite directions are necessary, that
is to say, an up-and-down motion in a vertical direction and a transverse
motion, the latter for advancing the comb the distance of a tooth or
stitch after each passage of the needle through the leather, and the
former for lowering the comb for the purpose of allowing the needle
to pass over the edge of the leather without touching it.
These two motions are obtained in the following manner, also
describing the mode in which the comb is manipulated by the
operator: The plate J carrying the whole of the comb mechanism
and sliding on the guides 1, 1, is set in motion by a cam K keyed on
the horizontal shaft F, aided by a spiral spring L, which has a constant
tendency to lift or raise the plate J contrary to the action of cam K;
said cam K is formed with one half of its circumference of smaller

page_text: diameter than the other so as to permit of the required motion of the
plate J and comb as above mentioned. The cam K in rotating is
brought in contact with a friction roller t turning on an axis u fixed
to plate J, in such manner that the larger diameter of the cam in
passing over the roller t forces the latter down, and with it the plate
and comb, which motion it is free to perform on the expansion of the
spiral spring; but when the smaller diameter of the cam presents itself
to the friction roller the latter will rise, and with it the plate and
comb by the tension of the spiral spring L, which acts on the end of
a lever M connected with the plate by a stud v. The spiral spring
by these means will cause the friction roller t to travel on the periphery
of the cam K, and so impart the necessary up-and-down motion to the
comb for producing the whip stitch. One up-and-down motion takes
place for every revolution of the horizontal shaft, as also for each
alternate motion of the needle through and over the leather.
In order to produce the transverse motion of the comb we employ
a ratchet wheel N set in motion by a pawl or catch a mounted on an
.axis y fixed at the end of the arm z formed on a flat bar a', having a
horizontal sliding motion in fixed guides b', b', imparted by a cam O
mounted on the horizontal shaft F. A groove is made in the circum-
ference of cam O, in which works a friction roller e' mounted on an
axis' fixed to the flat bar a'. This groove is arranged to permit of its
to-and-fro motion being more than sufficient to allow of the pawl x
engaging with the teeth of ratchet N, and withdrawing immediately
after acting on a tooth, which disconnection is for the purpose of
enabling the operator to turn the endless screw H in one or other
direction when necessary for recommencing a new traverse equal to the
length of the comb, or bringing the spaces between the teeth opposite
the point of the needle without regard to the position of said pawl.
Thus the ratchet N being set in motion by the pawl turns the
screw H in its bearings and socket or nut g' formed on the fixed arm i
of the comb so as to traverse it the distance of a tooth or stitch after
cach passage of the needle through the leather, the teeth of the ratchet
and thread of the screw being suitably arranged for the purpose. P is
a small lever for lowering the plate J and the comb when the needle
after passing through the leather is held by the two ends in the two
pairs of fingers or grippers, and it is required to recommence a new
length of sewing without being obliged to disarrange the needle and

page_text: Teacher as it is simpler for expediting the work to return the comb to
the desired point. For this purpose it is simply necessary to press the
left foot on a pedal attached to the end of the wire or cord i' in con-
nection with the comb for the purpose of opening the cheeks of the
same, and also of rotating the ratchet wheel and screw by acting on
the hand wheel or crank handle h' with the right hand, while the left
hand is constantly occupied in adjusting or guiding the pieces of leather
being sewn.
Having described the means by which the comb with its cheeks
and consequently the material or leather held thereby are operated,
we will now proceed to explain the construction of the mechanism for
operating the needle and passing it completely through the leather with
its thread, as also the means by which the slack thread is seized after
each alternate passage of the needle in order to draw and tighten it
for forming each stitch in sewing. The needle we employ is exactly
similar to those generally used in hand sewing. The thread which is
cut in lengths of from 30 to 36 inches is first passed through the eye of
the needle and secured thereto by a knot, see Figure 8 which represents
an ordinary needle and thread on an enlarged scale. The mechanism
by which the needle is operated is distinctly shown in Figures 1, 2,
and 5. Figure 1 shows a side view of a pair of nippers, and Figure 5
a plan of same with a portion of the mechanism omitted in order that
the construction of the various parts may be clearly shown. The
grippers for holding the needle and passing it through the leather or
material are composed of two jaws, the one jaw j¹ is fixed and the other
or movable jaw l' is mounted on a joint m' serving as an axis therefor.
The cheeks or grippers are kept closed by a spring Q bearing on the
upper part of the movable jaw except when they are forced open to
permit of the introduction or withdrawal of the needle. The inner
faces of the movable cheeks are smooth, while those of the lower cheeks
are provided with a longitudinal groove for receiving the needle and
preventing its deviating or slipping transversely. One pair of these
grippers is mounted on each side of the comb and slide on the sloping
frames R, R, of the machine as seen in Figures 1, 2, and 5.
reciprocating to-and-fro motion is communicated to these grippers for
the purpose of passing the needle through the fabric or leather in the
manner herein-after described. We have already observed that the
peculiar form given to the framing of the machine is for the purpose of
A

page_text: sewing or operating the needle on an inclined plane as being preferable
for the purpose desired. With the same object we dispose the shafts F
and G at right angles and mount the two pairs of grippers facing one
another in the line F, F, Figure 1, and with the shafts F, G, at each end,
the cams S, T, being further made of conical form for the purpose.
These cams when set in motion alternately and reciprocally advance and
with draw with the two pairs of grippers in guides q', q', of frames R, R,
by the aid of grooves n', n', friction rollers o', o', and studs p', p', fixed
to the stationary grippers j', j. The grippers j' are moved forward by
means of cam S so as to present the nose in front of the comb or
material, and open the jaws to receive the needle which has penetrated
the leather or fabric by means of the other pair of grippers, as seen in
Figure 1. The groove of cam S is so arranged as to immediately draw
back the grippers j' into their first position, carrying with them the
needle and thread. At the same time that the comb with the material
effects its downward motion in the manner before described, the cam S
in continuing its rotation necessarily brings forward the grippers j' a
second time with the needle between them, and passes said needle over
the edge of the comb in readiness to be received or introduced between
the checks of the other pair of grippers j which draws the needle from
the other side of the combe. We would remark that all these movements
of each pair of grippers take place during half a turn of the shafts F
and G, that is to say, the cam S is arranged to move the grippers j'
forward for receiving the needle immediately behind in order to
withdraw it from the fabric or leather and advance them for inserting
the needle a second time on the other pair of grippers, and when this
operation has taken place the first pair of grippers j' remain stationary,
while the other pair of grippers j perform the same operation or
movements. When the two pairs of grippers move forward either for
giving up or receiving the needle reciprocally they open to permit of
the needle entering or leaving the jaws. This is effected by the aid of
a spring q with which each pair of grippers is provided, the spring
raising the movable jaw at the moment the cavity in the latter is
brought under the friction roller s. The upper face of the movable
cheek ceasing then to be in contact with said roller and being no longer
acted on by said spring Q which bears on the guides q', q', the movable
jaw may then be raised or opened by the sole aid of the spring q which
will keep it open while the grippers on the opposite side of the comb
perform their functions. The needle having been passed through the

page_text: leather or material the slack thread is immediately seized by the
rotating fingers 72, 72, mounted on flyers or cone wheels U which we
term stretchers kept in continual rotation by the shafts F, G, and
causing the fingers,, to seize the thread at the desired moment and
draw it through the fabric or leather for tightening the stitch.
The construction of these fingers or stretchers will be better
understood by refering to Figures 1 and 2. The finger of the
stretcher U is mounted on an axis s, turning in bearings t and held in
position by a spiral spring u² on axis s2, and as the stretcher or wheel U
turns, the thread will be seized by the finger and drawn into the
fabric, and after having tightened the stitch the spring gives to the
slight resistance of the thread, which then turns the finger on its axis.
and permits of the thread escaping therefrom. On this taking place
the thread will occasionally recoil, and unless precautions are taken
it might become entangled in the machine; to obviate this we apply
a fixed disc or plate V which we term a thread guard in front of each
stretcher and mounted concentrically therewith and having a groove
X made around the circumference of the disc V radiating from the axis
of the stretcher. It is in this groove or guard that the finger acts
on the thread for drawing and tightening it after each passage of the
needle and the formation of each stitch. A brush is further placed
behind each finger for sweeping the thread into the groove X when
it escapes from the finger and preventing its recoil.
By reference to Figures 1 and 2 it will be seen that the stretchers
with their thread guard are mounted separately on the ends of the
shafts F and G, the two cones being arranged in such manner that
one of the fingers shall seize the thread on one side of the comb
or material, while the other finger or stretcher acts on the thread when
it has passed with the needle to the opposite side.
The sewing produced in our improved apparatus is represented in
Figure 7 by the series of stitches 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6. y, z, are two pieces
of fabric or leather shown in section and united by the sewing, Figure 6
shows a plan of the same stitching.
In conclusion we would observe that an ordinary needle has before
been used for making the same kind of whip stitch which we do not
claim, but that the chief features of our Invention are,-

page_text: 1st. The general arrangement and combination of parts constituting
the improved sewing machinery herein described.
2ndly. The several movements of the comb and needle and mode
of operating the same.
3rdly. The construction and arrangement of the conical stretchers.
4thly. The particular form of framing A for the purpose of sewing
and operating a needle by the aid of grippers working at an angle
of forty-five degrees in the line F, F, Figure 1, in the same manner
as hand work.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Jean Hippolyte Dufort and Dominique Gance in
the Great Seal Patent Office on the 28th September 1868.
we, JEAN
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME,
HIPPOLYTE DUFORT, Merchant, and DOMINIQUE GANCE, Mechanician,
both of 29, Boulevart St. Martin, Paris, in the French Empire, send
greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the First day of April, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-eight, in the thirty-first
year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and
grant unto us, the said Jean Hippolyte Dufort and Dominique Gance,
Her special licence that we, the said Jean Hippolyte Dufort and
Dominique Gance, our executors, administrators, and assigns, or such
others as we, the said Jean Hippolyte Dufort and Dominique Gance,
our executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter
during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make,
use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain
and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for
"IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES," upon the condition (amongst others)
that we, the said Jean Hippolyte Dufort and Dominique Gance, our
executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under our, or
their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and
ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the
same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the

page_text: Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and im-
mediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that the said Jean Hippolyte Dufort and
Dominique Gance, do hereby declare the nature of our said Invention,
and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement, reference
being had to the Sheet of Drawings hereunto annexed and to the letters
and figures marked thereon (that is to say:-
Our Invention relates to improvements in sewing machines more
particularly applicable for sewing gloves and producing a whip stitch
with a single thread.
These improvements are illustrated in the accompanying Drawings,
Figure 1 of which shows a lateral part sectional elevation of the
apparatus provided with the improvements of our Invention; Figure 2,
a front view on line F, F, Figure 1; Figure 3, a plan on line D, D,
Figure 1; Figure 4, a vertical section on line C, C, Figure 1; Figure 5
shows a plan of a pair of grippers for operating an ordinary needle in
combination with a comb; while Figures 6, 7, and 8 show details
herein-after referred to. The same letters and figures of reference
indicate like parts in all the Figures.
Before explaining the construction and mode of operating the
apparatus we would observe that all machines hitherto employed for
sewing gloves have proved defective (although capable of producing the
various stitches used in this particular manufacture) in consequence of
the disposition or combination of the various parts preventing the
various parts of a glove being put together and sewn with the dexterity
necessary for producing a perfect article. This disadvantage we propose
to remedy by the improved apparatus of our Invention.
The Invention consists in the combination of certain mechanical
means whereby leather and other gloves may be expeditiously put
together in the machine and sewn. We use an ordinary needle with a
single point and eye near the head, in which the thread is passed and
held by a slip knot.
In order to put together and hold the parts of a glove in place we
use a comb similar to those generally employed in glove sewing. The
needle is held by two pairs of fingers or grippers, one pair being
placed on each side of the comb; these fingers or grippers move

page_text: alternately backwards and forwards by the aid of suitable cams for the
purpose of passing the needle and its thread completely through the
leather held by the comb. The needle in passing into or through the
leather is received on the other side by a similar pair of fingers or
grippers acting in the same manner as those above mentioned. The
motion of each pair is suitably regulated one with the other. When the
needle has passed its thread through the leather the thread is seized by
rotating fingers fixed in flyers or rotators of conical form placed at each
side of the comb. Immediately after one of these rotating fingers has
seized the thread the flyer in turning on its axis pulls said thread and
tightens the stitch in the same manner as in hand sewing. The glove or
other material to be sewn is placed between a pair of toothed clamps
fixed at the end of a pair of bent arms, one of which is fixed and the
other movable, which apparatus serves to hold the leather in position
and is here referred to as the comb. This comb performs two different
motions, one in a vertical and the other in a transverse direction, the
transverse motion being required for advancing the comb one tooth
after the needle has passed through the leather and after the formation
of each stitch. This motion is produced by the aid of an endless screw
and nut or socket formed on the fixed arm of the comb. This screw
turns in bearings and is set in motion by a catch acting on the teeth of
a ratchet mounted at one end. The vertical reciprocating up-and-down
motion of the comb is required for producing the whip stitch and is
produced every time the needle has passed through the leather, the
motion being complete after each return of the needle above the comb in
order to present the material to be sewn in front of or below the point
of the needle. Thus the downward motion of the comb permits of the
needle pasing over the edge of the leather without touching when
presenting its head thereto, while the upward motion of the comb
permits of the needles perforating the leather in passing through point
foremost. This up-and-down motion of the comb is produced by the
aid of a cam on the principal shaft of the machine which by its rotary
motion produces the sliding motion of a plate carrying the comb.
Although the generality of sewing machines hitherto constructed
employ one or more needles perforating either vertically or horizontally,
we find this arrangement objectionable in the sewing of gloves, and
construct our apparatus so that the needle may work at an angle of 45
degrees to the horizontal line of the table. We also so combine the

page_text: various parts of the apparatus that the operator may sew and put
together the various parts of a glove without obstruction from the
mechanism, and also handle the comb with facility and rapidity.
Having so far described the general features of the improvements we
will now proceed to explain the apparatus with reference to the
accompanying Drawings.
A represents the framing of the machine standing on feet a, a, the
arms b, b, and plate C, serving to fix the machine on a wood table B;
D, division plate carrying the comb mechanism and the bevil gearing in
front of the machine; E, plate serving to carry the bevil gearing at the
upper part of the apparatus; these two sets of bevil gearing are of
similar form and act in the same manner; F, principal shaft of the
machine mounted in bearings d, d, formed on framing A. The conical
pulley A¹ mounted on the end of shaft F serves by the aid of the grooves
e, e, to impart more or less rapid rotary motion thereto, which is com-
municated by the bevil pinions f, f, to the vertical shaft G turning in
bearings h, h. The comb, as before mentioned, is composed of two
cheeks or plates g, g, in each edge of which are cut the teeth
1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, at equal distances apart sufficient to admit of the passage
of the needle through them; these plates are rigidly fixed at the end of
two curved arms i, k, mounted on an axis j; the arm k is movable on
said axis j, while the arm i is fixed and mounted on a screw H carried
by a cylindrical guide I in order to preserve its parallelism during the
motion of the comb in a transverse direction; J, plates sliding in
guides, 1, Figure 4, and provided with two arms m, m, on the ends of
which are the bearings n, n, of the screw H and curved arms o, o,
carrying the cylindrical guide I. In order to place the glove or work
in the machine the movable jaw of the comb is raised when it is at once
placed between the cheeks g, g, and firmly held therein by allowing the
movable jaw to fall, so as to grip the edge of the leather, the pressure
being produced by a flat spring p bearing on the fixed arm of the comb.
In order to raise the movable jaw of the comb the foot presses on a
pedal attached to the end of a cord or wire i' passing over pullies q, y,
the other end being connected to a ring r carried on a rod s fixed to the
movable arm of the comb; this rod s on which the ring slides during
the motion of the comb serves for raising the movable jaw of the comb
whatever may be the position of the latter. It has been before
mentioned that in order to produce a whip stitch two movements of the

page_text: comb in opposite directions are necessary, that is to say, an up-and-down
motion in a vertical direction and a transverse motion, the latter for
advancing the comb the distance of a tooth or stitch after each passage
of the needle through the leather, and the former for lowering the
comb for the purpose of allowing the needle to pass over the edge of
the leather without touching it; these two motions are obtained in the
following manner, also describing the mode in which the comb is
manipulated by the operator. The plate J, carrying the whole of the
comb mechanism and sliding on the guides l, l, is set in motion by a
cam K keyed on the horizontal shaft F aided by a spiral spring L
which has a constant tendency to lift or raise the plate J contrary
to the action of cam K; said cam K is formed with one-half of its
circumference of smaller diameter than the other, so as to permit of
the required motion of the plate J and comb, as above mentioned.
The cam K in rotating is brought in contact with a friction roller t
turning on an axis u fixed to plate J in such manner that the larger
diameter of the cam in passing over the roller t forces the latter down
and with it the plate and comb, which motion it is free to perform
on the expansion of the spiral spring, but when the smaller diameter
of the cam presents itself to the friction roller the latter will rise and
with it the plate and comb by the tension of the spiral spring L which
acts on the end of a lever M connected with the plate by a stud v.
The spiral spring by these means will cause the friction roller t to
travel on the periphery of cam K, and so impart the necessary up-
and-down motion to the comb for producing the whip stitch. One
up-and-down motion takes place for every revolution of the horizontal
shaft, as also for each alternate motion of the needle through and
over the leather. In order to produce the transverse motion of the
comb we employ a ratchet wheel N set in motion by a pawl or
catch mounted on an axis y fixed at the end of an arm z formed
on a flat bar a', having a horizontal sliding motion in fixed guides b', b',
imparted by a cam O mounted on the horizontal shaft F. A groove
is made in the circumference of cam O, in which works a friction
roller e mounted on an axis f' fixed to the flat bar a'. This groove
is arranged to permit of its to-and-fro motion being more than
sufficient to allow of the pawl x engaging with the teeth of ratchet N
and withdrawing immediately after acting on a tooth, which discon-
nection is for the purpose of enabling the operator to turn the screw H
in one or other direction when necessary for recommencing a new.

page_text: course of the length of the comb or bringing the space between the
teeth opposite the point of the needle without regard to the position
of the said pawl. Thus the ratchet N being set in motion by the
pawl turns the screw H in its bearings and socket or nut g' formed
on the fixed arm i of the comb, so as to traverse it the distance of a
tooth or stitch after each passage of the needle through the leather,
the teeth of the ratchet and thread of the screw being suitably
arranged for this purpose. P is a small lever for lowering the plate J
and the comb, when the needle after passing through the leather is
held by the two ends in the two pairs of fingers or grippers, and it is
required to recommence a new length of sewing without being obliged
to disarrange the needle and leather, as it is simpler for expediting
the work to return the comb to the desired point. For this purpose
it is simply necessary to press the left foot on a pedal attached to the
end of the wire or cord z' in connection with the comb for the
purpose of opening the cheeks of the same, and also of rotating
the ratchet wheel and screw by acting on the hand wheel or crank
handle h with the right hand while the left hand is constantly
occupied in adjusting or guiding the pieces of leather being sewn.
Having described the means by which the comb with its cheeks,
and consequently the material or leather held thereby are operated
together, we will now proceed to explain the construction of the
mechanism for operating the needle and passing it completely through
the leather with its thread, as also the means by which the slack
thread is seized after each alternate passage of the needle in order to
draw and tighten it for forming each stitch in sewing. The needle
we employ is exactly similar to those generally used in hand sewing.
The thread which is cut in lengths of from thirty to thirty-six inches
is first passed through the eye of the needle and secured thereto by
a knot, see Figure 8, which represents an ordinary needle and thread
on an enlarged scale.
The mechanism by which the needle is operated is distinctly shown
in Figures 1, 2, and 5. Figure 1 shows a side view of a pair of nippers,
and Figure 5 a plan of same with a portion of the mechanism omitted
in order that the construction of the various parts may be clearly shown.
The grippers for holding the needle and passing it through the leather
or material are composed of two jaws; the one jaw j' is fixed, and the
other or movable jaw is mounted on a joint m¹ serving as an axis

page_text: on the upper part of the movable jaw, except when they are forced to
open to permit of the introduction or withdrawal of the needle. The
inner faces of the movable cheeks are smooth, while those of the lower
checks are provided with a longitudinal groove for receiving the needle
and prevent its deviating or slipping transversely. One pair of these
grippers is mounted on each side of the comb and slide on the sloping
frames R, R, of the machine, as seen in Figures 1, 2, and 5. A
reciprocating to-and-fro motion is communicated to these grippers for
the purpose of passing the needle through the fabric or leather in the
manner herein-after described.
We have already observed that the peculiar form given to the
framing of the machine is for the purpose of sewing or operating the
needle on an inclined plane, as being preferable for the purpose desired.
With the same object we dispose the shafts F and G at right angles
and mount the two pairs of grippers facing one another in a line F, F,
and with the shafts F, G, at each end, the cams S, T, being further
made of conical form for the purpose. These cams when set in motion
alternately and reciprocally advance and withdraw the two pairs of
grippers in guides q, q', of frames R, R, by the aid of grooves n', n',
friction rollers o', o', and studs p, p, fixed to the stationary
grippers j, j The grippers j' are moved forward by means of cam S
so as to present the nose in front of the comb or material and open its
jaws to receive the needle which has penetrated the leather or fabric
by means of the other pair of nippers, as seen in Figure 1. The groove
of cam S is so arranged as to immediately draw back the grippers j¹
into their first position, carrying with them the needle and thread.
At the same time the comb with its material effects its downward
motion in the manner before described. The cam S in continuing its
rotation necessarily brings forward the grippers j' a second time with
the needle between them and passes said needle over the edge of the
comb in readiness to be received or introduced between the cheeks of
the other pair of grippers j³, which draws the needle from the other
side of the comb. We would remark that all these movements of
each pair of grippers take place during half a turn of the shafts F
and G, that is to say, the cam S is arranged to move the grippers j'
forward for receiving the needle immediately behind in order to
withdraw it from the fabric or leather and advance them for inserting

page_text: the needle a second time in the other pair of grippers, and when this
operation has taken place the first pair of grippers j' remain stationary,
while the other pair of grippers perform the same operation or move-
ments. When the two pairs of grippers move forward, either for giving up
or receiving the needle reciprocally, their cheeks should open to permit
of the needle entering or leaving the jaws. This is effected by the
aid of a spring g with which each pair of grippers is. provided, the
spring, raising the movable jaw at the moment the cavity in
the latter is brought under the friction roller s'. The upper face of
the movable cheek ceasing then to be in contact with said roller and
being no longer acted on by the spring which bears on the
guides q', q'; said movable jaw may then be raised or opened by
the sole aid of the spring q², which will keep it open while the grippers
on the opposite side of the comb perform their functions. The needle
having been passed through the leather or material the slack thread
is immediately seized by the rotating fingers 7, 72, mounted on flyers
or bevil wheels U, which we term stretchers, kept in continual rotation
by the shafts F, G, causing the fingers 2, 72, to seize the thread at the
desired moment and draw it through the fabric or leather for tightening
the stitch. The construction of these fingers or stretchers will be better
understood by referring to Figures 1 and 2. The finger of the
stretcher U is mounted on an axis turning in bearings t and held
in position by a spiral spring u² on axis s³, and as the stretcher or
wheel U turns it will be readily understood that the thread will be
seized by the finger and drawn into the fabric, and after having
tightened the stitch the spring gives to the slight resistance of the
thread, which then turns the finger on its axis and permits of the thread
escaping therefrom. On this taking place the thread will occasionally
recoil, and unless precautions are taken it might become entangled
in the machine; to obviate this we apply a fixed disc or plate V, which
we term a thread guard, in front of each stretcher and mounted
concentrically therewith and having a groove X made around the
circumference of disc V radiating from the axis of the stretcher. It
is in this groove or guard that the finger acts on the thread for
drawing and tightening it after each passage of the needle and the
formation of each stitch. A brush is further placed behind each
finger for sweeping the thread into the groove X when it escapes
from the finger and preventing its recoil.
By reference to Figures 1 and 2, it will be seen that the stretchers

page_text: with their thread guard are mounted separately on the ends of shafts
F and G, the two cones being arranged in such manner that one of the
fingers shall seize the thread on one side of the comb or material,
while the other finger or stretcher acts on the thread when it has passed
with the needle to the opposite side.
The sewing produced in our improved apparatus is represented in
Figure 7 by the series of stitches 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6. y, z, are two pieces
of fabric or leather shown in section and united by the sewing; Figure 6
show's a plan of the same stitching. Figures 9 and 10 show a modified
arrangement of stretcher for tightening the stitches, the same reference
letters apply to both these Figures.
A, plate of thread guard; B, groove of thread guard; C, needle
grippers D to open out into the larger part of the slot for slackening
on point G in the direction shown by the red line; H, slot enabling the
thread grippers D to open and close; I, slack thread; J, thread which
is tightened and stretched by the finger or hook; K, leather or material
being sewn; M, plate fixed to thread guard, provided with a mortise
or slot H, made of the form shown in Figure 10, in order to allow the
grippers; D, thread grippers; F, lever of thread grippers, oscillating
the thread, while the jaws in closing enter the narrow part of said slot
in order to grip the thread when the hook K draws it in tightening
the stitch; N, orifice for guiding the thread between the jaws of the
grippers. As the thread is liable to become knotted in being drawn
through the leather by the stretcher in tightening the stitch, through
the slack thread becoming twisted as the loop is reduced in size by the
action of the stretcher, I obviate this by the application of a small
vibrating finger, which seizes the thread at the moment when the needle
after having passed over the comb or the sewing returns and presents
its head to the upper grippers. After the needle has passed through
the fabric it leaves a loop of thread on the finger, which it immediately
raises, and so keeps the thread or loop stretched during the time the
stretcher is pulling the thread for tightening the stitch.
This arrangement is also illustrated in Figures 11 and 12 of the
Drawings, Figure 11 showing a plan of the parts operating on the said
finger. The same letters apply to the two Figures.
A, finger jointed at a on the end of an arm B, fixed on a stem C
mounted in bearings b, b; stem C is set in motion by an eccentric D
mounted on the vertical shaft of the machine, producing the sliding

page_text: motion of the bar F working in guides c, c, fixed below the ring E
forming part of the machine framing. The bar F is connected to stem C
by a link g, h. The spiral spring K serves to keep the friction roller i
of bar F in contact with the eccentric D, which latter produces the
sliding motion of said bar F, and so imparts by means of link g
the necessary vibratory motion to axis C, and consequently to finger A,
for the purpose of seizing the thread and raising the loop during the
tightening of the stitch; M is a slight spring, which enables the finger A
to give and allow the loop to slip off when it has been drawn very
small by the action of the stretcher.
The finger A above described may also serve for making the stitch
known as "overcasting," but instead of being movable on the end of
an arm B it would be fixed to stem C so as to prevent the loop from
slipping off when the thread is being tightened by the stretcher, and
so as to retain said loop until the needle after passing through the
leather returns above the edge of the work head first, and is introduced
or passed through the loop held by the finger A before being received
by the upper grippers of the machine. At this moment the finger A
is moved back for freeing the loop, which is simultaneously tightened
by the stretcher at the upper part of the machine. Thus after each
passage of the needle through the leather the finger A seizes the thread
and holds it in the form of a loop for the needle with its thread to
pass through, after which operation the finger is disengaged and said
loop forms a knot, which is tightened by the aid of the stretcher and so
forms a button hole stitch, in exactly the same manner as if made by
hand. Figure 13 shows the finger A and loop ready to receive the
needle and thread as before described.
Having described the nature of our Invention, and the manner of
performing the same, we would observe that an ordinary needle has
before been used for making the whip stitch, and that we do not claim
either the use of such needle or the production of such whip stitch; but
without confining ourselves to the precise details of construction and
combination of parts of our machine, as such may be varied without
departing from the nature of the Invention, we declare that what we
claim as our Invention, and desire to secure by Letters Patent is,―
First. The general arrangement and combination of parts constituting
the improved sewing machinery, herein-before shown and described.

page_text: Secondly. We claim the several movements of the comb and needle
and mode of operating the same, in the manner and for the purpose
described.
Thirdly. We claim the construction and arrangement of conical
stretchers, operating substantially in the manner shown and described.
Fourthly. We claim the particular form of framing A, for the purpose
of sewing and operating a needle by the aid of grippers working at an
angle of forty-five degrees in the line F, F, Figure 1, in the same
manner as hand work.
Fifthly. We claim the arrangement of stretcher, illustrated in Figures
9 and 10 of the Drawings annexed.
Sixthly. We claim the vibrating finger A, Figures 11 and 12, for
preventing the formation of knots in the loop of thread, all as herein-
before described.
Seventhly. We claim the modified arrangement of finger A, Figure 13,
as and for the purposes herein specified.
In witness whereof, we, the said Jean Hippolyte Dufort and
Dominique Gance, have hereunto set our hands and seals, this
Sixteenth day of September, in the year of our Lord One thousand
eight hundred and sixty-eight.
(1.S.)
H. BUFORT
D. GANCE. (L.S.)