IMPROVEMENTS IN KNITTED FABRIOS
Year: 1888

page_text: Date of Application, 1st May, 1888
Specification Accepted, 1st June, 1888
I, LUDWIG SUTRO of No. 127 Spring Street, New York, County and State of New
York, United States of America, Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of my
invention for IMPROVEMENTS IN KNITTED FABRIOS, and in what manner the same is to
be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:
My invention relates to that class of knitted fabrics which are known in the art as
flat fabrics as contradistinguished from those which are knitted in circular or tubular
form, and especially to that class which are knitted double or from two distinct
threads; its object being to produce a fabric of this character which shall be adapted
for use as a braid for ornamental and other purposes.
The fabric which I have designed for this use, and which forms the subject of the
present application, is characterized by two independent yarns, each of which is inter-
looped with itself and interlocked with the other, in such a manner as to form a firm
and homogeneous fabric with the loops of one yarn lying wholly upon one face, and
the loops of the other yarn appearing wholly upon the other face thereof.
To enable others to understand and use my invention, I shall describe briefly the
machinery which I prefer to employ for the manufacture of my improved fabric, and
will then describe the method of making, and the structure of said fabric.
I would remark however at this time, that this application for patent is directed
only to the fabric itself. The machine for making it, while here described in so far as
necessary to explain my invention, is the subject of a separate application in my name
for Letters Patent of even date herewith.
Referring to the accompanying drawings, wherein the nature of my invention will
more fully appear,
Fig. 1, is an isometric projection of a straight knitting machine upon which my
improved fabric may be produced.
Figs. 2 and 3, edge views of my improved fabric, showing the formation thereof
and the manner in which the loops formed by the two yarns are interlocked, the first
of these Figures illustrating the loops after the cam bars have moved to the right in
Figs. 1 and 2, and the other the arrangement thereof after the said bars have moved
to the left, and
Figs. 4 and 5 diagrams, illustrating the operation of the needles in the formation of

page_text: the fabric, Fig. 5 showing such operation as the cam bars are moving to the right
in Figures 1 and 2, and Fig. 6 said operation when moving toward the left therein.
These two Figures also show the relative arrangement of the V shape portions of
the needle actuating grooves in the cam bars with respect to each other.
In all the figures, like letters designate corresponding parts.
A A are brackets or standards to which are secured the horizontal and vertical
needle bars CC, and B is the main driving shaft provided with the fast and loose
pulleys, through which the various parts of the machine are operated.
cc are the grooves for the reception of the needles d d, which are fitted to the
slide therein, and D D are the cam bars by means of which such needles are
operated, the same being connected by the arms ff and parts g g and provided in
their under side with the needle actuating grooves E, which are constructed with the
usual shape portions E E and knock over depressions kk. These V shape portions,
instead of being so disposed as to bring their apices in the same vertical lines are
arranged upon opposite sides thereof as shown in dotted lines in Figures 4 and 5, in
order that the set of horizontal and the set of vertical needles may each form the
yarn supplied to it into plain loops, and interlock such loops with the loops of the
other set, as will more fully hereinafter appear.
F F are the carriers for delivering the yarn to the horizontal and vertical needles,
respectively, the same being provided with the guide eyes o and 1, and H H are the
take up levers for taking up and controlling the slack of such yarn. These levers
are each constructed with an orifice t in its end for engaging with the yarn, and is
caused to exert a strain thereon through the operation of the coiled spring H.
1 are the latch openers by means of which the latches of the needles are thrown
back as said needles are advanced in the operation of knitting.
D2 is a rod for connecting the cam bar D to the crank D', secured to the upper end
of the vertical shaft D, which in turn is supported in a stand or hanger D, and is
actuated from the main driving shaft B, through appropriate gearing, so that, as this
shaft is rotated, the cam bars and the other moving members of the machine will be
actuated therefrom.
The parts as thus described are, or may be, of the form illustrated in the application
for Letters Patent hereinbefore referred to, and require no further description
herein.
My improved fabric is shown in Figures 2 and 3, and is composed of the two sets
of loops m¹ and n¹ which are interlocked together as shown at n². These two sets of
loops are each formed by interlooping one or the other of the yarns m and n in
such a manner as to form the same into a plain fabric, and is interlocked to the
other by carrying the yarn out of which its loops are formed around the loops of
the other set, forming thereby a double fabric, in which the two single fabrics are
united with the loops of one yarn appearing wholly upon one face, and the loops of
the other yarn appearing wholly upon the other face thereof.
The manner of forming this fabric is as follows:
Starting with the cam bars at the left in Figure 1, with proper loops upon the
needles, and the yarns m and n threaded through the appropriate guide eyes o and
and orifice t, the movement of such cam bars to the right in said figure will cause
the advancement and retraction of both sets of needles and the consequent formation
of a row of loops upon each set thereof.
These movements of the needles, instead of taking place simultaneously in the two
sets, are so timed that the needles of the horizontal set are thrust forward and retracted
before the needles of the vertical set are similarly operated, the retracting movement
of the horizontal needles occuring at the same time that the advancing movement of
the vertical needles is effected. As a result of this, the yarn m taken by the horizontal
needles, during their advancing movement, is drawn around the shanks of the vertical
needles, as the former are retracted to draw the new loops through the old loops upon
their shanks, as shown more clearly to the left in Figure 4. The advancing move-
ment ofthe vertical needles which takes place at this time, carries their latches above
the yarn m thus drawn around them, so that, when such needles are retracted to draw

page_text: the yarn n taken by them through the old loops n upon their shanks, the yarn m will
be cast off upon the new loops thus formed, thereby interlocking the two rows of
loops m and n together, as illustrated at n in Fig. 2.
The movement of the cam bars to the left reverses these operations, the vertical
needles being advanced and retracted before the horizontal needles, and the yarn n
taken by them being drawn around the shanks of the horizontal needles, as shown at
the right in Fig. 5, which yarn as such horizontal needles are retracted, will be cast
off upon the new loops formed by them, interlocking the two sets of loops together, as
in their preceding operation, and so on, the advancing and retracting movements of
the two sets of needles successively forming rows of loops and interlocking them
together, as shown in Figures 3 and 4.
am
By thus employing two distinct yarns, and combining them as above described, the
yarn forming one side of the fabric never appears upon the other side, and Í
enabled to employ a yarn of one material or color for one face thereof, and a yarn of
a different material or color for the other face, thereby producing a fabric which is
not only ornamental in appearance, but, at the same time, is well suited for use in
many places where braid is ordinarily employed, as well as in various other locations.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is:
1st. A fabric formed from two distinct yarns, each of which is interlooped with
itself and interlocked with the other by extending around such other at points inter-
mediate adjacent loops of the same, substantially as described, whereby the loops
composing one face thereof never appear upon the other face, as set forth.
2nd. A double faced fabric formed from two distinct yarns each of which is inter-
looped with itself to form its respective side of the fabric and is interlooped with the
other by extending around it at points intermediate adjacent loops of the same,
substantially as described whereby the loops composing one face thereof never appears
upon the other face, as set forth.
Dated this 30th day of April 1888.
DAY, DAVIES & HUNT,
321, High Holborn, London, W.C.,
Agents for the Applicant.