Improvements in the Manufacture of Underclothing of Woollen Stockinet.
Year: 1894

page_text: Date of Application, 7th Mar., 1894
Complete Specification Left, 6th Dec., 1894-Accepted, 12th Jan., 1895
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Underclothing of Woollen
Stockinet.
I, AUGUST WALTER, of 95 Milton Street, in the City of London, Manufacturer,
do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
When making underclothing of woollen stockinet by machinery it is usual in the
case of garments made up of parts cut from a piece or pieces of material (as
distinguished from woven garments) to make the, seams by first bringing the two
edges of the material together and forming a row of stitches through both thick-
nesses at a little distance from the edges and then bodily folding over the two
thicknesses of material thus fastened together and forming another row of stitches
that passes through the two thicknesses of material so turned over and the material
against which they lie. The several thicknesses of material which thus project
from the main body of the material along the seam occasion discomfort and in some
cases irritation which the present invention is designed to obviate, for which purpose
according thereto in the manufacture of woollen stockinet underclothing the seams
are made by machinery as follows:-
Instead of bringing the two edges together so that they terminate in a single
line one of them is arranged against the portion of material to which it is to be
attached parallel with the other edge but at some little distance therefrom and a
row of stitches is passed through both portions of material near the edge of what I
will for distinction call the inner portion. The inner portion of material is then
turned over so as to be overlapped by the marginal portion of the under portion,
and a row of stitches is formed through the turned over inner portion of material
and the marginal portion above referred to such row of stitches being conveniently
as close to the edge of such marginal portion as practicable.
For guiding the material whilst making the first row of stitches I use a device
resembling an ordinary sewing machine presser foot but formed with a shoulder
against which the inner edge of the upper thickness of material is guided during
the formation of the first row of stitches. The presser foot is or may also be
formed with inclined grooves or furrows having for object to aid in keeping the
material against the said shoulder.
בד
71
5004

page_text: Improvements in the Manufacture of Underclothing of Woollen
Stockinet.
I, AUGUST WALTER, of 95 Milton Street, in the City of London, Manufacturer,
do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be
performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:-
When making underclothing of woollen stockinet by machinery it is usual in
the case of garments made up of parts cut from a piece or pieces of material (as
distinguished from woven garments) to make the seams by first bringing the two
edges of the material together and forming a row of stitches through both thick-
nesses at a short distance from the edges and then bodily folding over the two
thicknesses of material thus fastened together and forming another row of stitches
that passes through the two thicknesses of material so turned over and the material
against which they lie. The several thicknesses of material which thus project
from the main body of the material along the seam occasion discomfort and in some
cases irritation which the present invention is designed to obviate, for which purpose
according thereto in the manufacture of woollen stockinet underclothing the seams
are made by machinery in the manner I will now proceed to describe with reference
to the accompanying sheet of drawings wherein
Fig. 1 is an underside view of two pieces of material joined together by a seam
according to my invention; and
The
Figs. 2 and 3 are cross sections shewing the two stages in the formation of the
seam. Instead of bringing the edges a¹ 6 of the two portions of material a b
together so that they terminate in a single line, the edge a' is arranged against the
portion of material to which it is to be attached parallel with the edge b' of that
portion but at a short distance therefrom, as shown in Fig. 2, and a row of stitches c
is passed through both portions of material near the edge a¹ of the portion a.
portion a of material is then turned over into the position shewn in Fig. 3 so as to
be overlapped by the marginal portion 62 of the portion b, and a row of stitches d
is formed through the turned over portiou a of material and the marginal portion b²
of b, such row of stitches being conveniently as close to the edge b¹ of such marginal
portion as practicable.
For guiding the material whilst making the first row of stitches I use the device
shewn in the remaining figures of the drawings, whereof
Fig. 4 is a front elevation ;
Fig. 5 a side elevation;
Fig. 6 a rear elevation; and
Fig. 7 an underside view.
This device which comprises two parts e, el pivoted together at e³ and normally
held in the relative positions shown, by a spring as well understood, is adapted to
be attached in the ordinary manner to the presser bar of a sewing machine in lieu
of an ordinary presser foot, which it very much resembles it being however formed
with a shoulder against which the edge a' of the portion a of material is guided
during the formation of the row of stitches c. The presser foot is preferably also
formed with inclined grooves or furrows g having for object to aid in keeping the
material against the said shoulder.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is :-
In the manufacture of underclothing of woollen stockinet, forming the seams in

page_text: such underclothing by machinery substantially in the manner and by the means
hereinbefore described with reference to the drawings annexed for the purpose
specified.
Dated this 6th day of December 1894.
AUGUST WALTER.
W. Lloyd Wise,
46, Lincoln's Inn Fields, London, W.C., Agent for the Applicant.