ROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY FOR EMBROIDERING
Year: 1856

page_text: application for Letters Patent was not given within the time prescribed
by the Act.)
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by Richard Archibald Brooman at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
25th November 1856.-A communication from Eugene Lebée, of St.
Quentin.
I, RICHARD ARCHIBALD BROOMAN, of 166, Fleet Street, in the City of
London, Patent Agent, do hereby declare the naturo of the said Invention for
IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY FOR EMBROIDERING," (communicated to me by
Eugene Lebée, of St. Quentin, a foreigner residing abroad,) to be as follows:-
The Invention consists of certain arrangements of machinery for embroidering,
worked by hand, steam, or otherwise, in which the material to be embroidered
is mounted in a frame free to move horizontally and vertically in guides when
acted on by jacquard machinery, with which it is connected by levers or arms,
and which is furnished with cards perforated according to the pattern or design
to be embroidered. The embroidering is performed by means of needles
pointed at both ends, and held by springs in carriers travelling on beds on each
side of the material, and worked by cams and springs or otherwise. These
needles pass from the carriers on one side through the material to be cm-
broidered to the carriers on the other side, and the threads are caught and
drawn (up, or along, or down,) by means of combs or notched plates, worked
by counterbalanco weights and levers, acted on by cams or by connections

page_text: from the jacquard or otherwise. The combs consist each of two plates
(connected by pins or screws), one sliding in slots over the other, and either or
both free to move in guides; one plate of each comb is notched.
The material to be embroidered is stretched, held on all sides, mounted on
the frame, and held at the back by a nipper. The frame is worked up and
down, and from side to side, according to the play of the jacquard, while the
needlo carriers are made to advance by means of cams, and as soon as they
pass through the fabric they come on to the opposite set of carriers, the springs
of which are raised to receive them close down on them and hold them until
they again traverse the fabric, when they are returned to the first set of carriers,
and so on. The springs are opened and closed by studs placed excentrically
on a shaft worked by pins on the driving shafts; or this action may be effected
otherwise.
As soon as the needles traverse the fabric the threads are caught by one of
the combs on either side and drawn up or down or sidewise, the threads
entering the notches, where they are held by studs, which work in and out as
soon as the combs descend (or rise, as the case may be). Theso studs drop
out of the notches and release the threads. The cams which work the combs
act on the levers in such manner as to throw the weights up and down, and
perform the drawing of the thread; or this may be effected by wheels of
different diameters mounted on the same axis.
For embroidering with the festoon, seallop, "vandyke," or chain stitch
"festooning" or edging, a supplementary bar or plate is placed under the
needle carriers, worked by levers connected with the jacquard, or by gear in
connection with the driving shafts. This plate carries on one side of the fabric
a comb or plate with notches fronting those of the other combs, which comb
catches and draws the threads at the same time as the other combs, and makes
loops, into which the needle passes to form the stitch, and then falls clear and
releases the thread.
Instead of levers, excentrics, cams, springs, counterbalance weights may be
used, and vice versa.
Motion is communicated to the cams, &c. by means of driving shafts con-
nected to a crank if worked by hand, or to suitable connections if worked by
steam or otherwise.