Improvements in Machines for Sewing Boots and Shoes with Metallic Wire.
Year: 1889

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Machines for Sewing Boots and Shoes with
Metallic Wire.
We CHARLES CULLEY of the City of Toronto in the County of York in the Province
of Ontario, Canada, Shoemaker, and JOSEPH SANDERSON of the same place, Brush
Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the
Same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement :-
The object of this invention is to provide a machine for sewing that particular kind
of shoe known to the trade as "turns" and for welt sewing with metallic wire instead
of sewing with yarn, thread or any of the ordinary materials now in use, and at the
same time to imitate or produce the samo sewing as near to that produced by hand
work as possible.
Wo attain the above object by means of the mechanism illustrated in the accom-
panying drawings, one-third full size of the working machine.
And in order that the said Invention may be more clearly understood and readily
carried into effect we will proceed aided by the accompanying drawings more fully to
describe the same.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.
Figure 1 represents a side elevation of the said machine exhibiting it in the
position when the needle is raised and all the other parts in their relative positions.
Figure 2 represents an end elevation, or rather a face view of the machine when in
operation, the parts being in the same relative positions as in the foregoing view.
Figure 3 represents a rear end elevation of the machino shown in Figure 2.
Figure 4 represents a similar view to that shown in Figure 1, but exhibiting the
working parts in opposite positions, that is, the needle depressed as when forming a
stitch and all other parts in their corresponding positions.
Figure 5 represents a perspective view somewhat enlarged from the foregoing
figures, of the needle, cast-on, presser-foot, guide and surrounding parts, in the act of
forming a stitch in the work.
Figure 6 represents a similarly enlarged view of the cast-on, presser-foot guide and
co-acting parts in their positions relative to the needle, and-
Figure 7 represents the actual, or full sized needle reversed, to exhibit the groove
in the under side and its spiral course therein.
Similar numbers of reference refer to or indicate similar parts of the machine
throughout this specification and the drawings.
The frame 1, of the machine has suitable legs or supports, provided as shown, and
two limbs, 2, projecting upward which form hearings for the main shaft, 3, which is
intended to be operated by a pulley (not shown) on the end of said shaft 3, and a
belt from suitable power.
The shaft 3, revolves in the direction inlicated, and has the cams, 4, 5, and 6 suit-
ably secured thereon. The grooved cam, 4, is formed as shown in the different views
and is for the purpose of operating the bell crank, 7, by means of an anti-friction
roller or like device within the groove.
The bell-crank, 7, is secured by a suitable screw 9, to the main frame 1, at its centre,
and in its horizontal extremity it has a curved slot, 10, formed of a certain conditional
radius, hereinafter explained.
The bolt 11, secured in the slot, 10, by a nut, as shown, maintains an adjustable
connection of the lever 7 with the connecting har, 12, which is attached to the
needle-lever, 13, shown elevated in Figures 1 and 2 and depressed in Figure 4. The
neelle lever 13, vibrates on the fulcrum pin, 14, passing through it and the lugs or the

page_text: end of the frame 1. The connecting bar, 12, is formed substantially as shown, of
three parts, two of which are alike divided and secured to the tongues of the
centre-bar piece by a suitable screw through each, forming a hinge at each end
flexible in the same plane, that is, laterally, for the purpose of providing for taking
stitch by the needle, 16, which is curved, as shown detailed in Figure 7, and has a
groove formed in it for the reception of the wire in the act of drawing the same
through the work to form the stitch therein. The said groove begins near the point
and one side of the needle, 16, and runs or extends spirally along the lower side to the
opposite side, where a hook is formed for drawing the loop formed over the needle (by
mechanism herein after explained) to form the stitch. The needle lever, 13, is com-
posed of two halves suitably secured together and having a curved groove formed in
the inner faces of said halves, in which groove the needle 16, is clamped by a suitable
screw, 17. The curved slot 10, in the bell-crank 7, is formed on a radius oqual the
distance between the centres of the bolts through the ends of the said connecting bar, 12,
the needle, 16, being in the elevated position when the said slot, 10, was described, or
its form defined, consequently the connecting-bar, 12, was depressed. The purpose of
the said slot 10, being that of providing for the shortening of the are of vibration of
the needle, 16, without altering the position of the upper end of said are, that is, any
change made by adjustment of the length of the said arc of vibration takes place at
the lower extremity of the same.
The traveller, 18, on the upper end of the feed-lever, 19, is hold in contact with the
cam, 5, by the spiral spring, 20, pressing outward against the lower end, as shown by
Figure 2. The feod-lever, 19, of the form shown, is suitably secured by the bolt, 21,
to the bracket, 22, secured on the main frame, 1, of the machine. On the lower end
of the feed-lever, 19, is adjustably secured the feed regulator, 24, baving the slot 23,
therein to regulate the feed of the work as desirable by the adjustment of said
regulator, 24, to operate the fulcrum pin, 14, on which the needle lever, 13, is secured,
a longer or shorter distance as required for the stitch.
On the outer end of the main shaft, 3, is suitably secured the cam, 25, to operate
the slide-bar, 26, operating vertically through the bracket, 27, secured to the
main frame, 1, at its upper bearing, and through the frame, 1, at its lower bearing, as
shown by Figures 1, 2 and 4. In the bracket, 27, is provided a screw and
jamb nut, 28, the point of the former engaging the longitudinal groove, 29, in the
slide-bar, 26, to secure the latter and the block, 30, under the cam, 25, from turning
round. The cam, 25, when in motion comes in contact with the block, 30, and
depresses it, compressing the spiral spring, 31, situated around the bar, 26, and
bearing upward and downward against the block, 30, and the main-frame, 1, respec-
tively. The bar, 26, imparts motion to the cast ou, 32, by means of the rack, 33,
secured or formed on the lower end of the slide bar, 26, engaging the cast on
pinion, 34, having the looper, B., formed on the outer end of its axle. The looper, 35,
is an eccentric or small crank formed as already stated, (on the axle of the cast on
pinion, 34) and has a small eye or hole through which the wire is carried, the purpose
of the said looper, 35, being to carry the wire around the needle, 16, in forming the
stitch, which is that known as the chain stitch. Through the centre (longitudinally)
of the cast on pinion, 34, a small hole extends, for the wire employed in sewing, to
pass; thence through the looper, 35, it passes to the needle, 16.
The guide, 36, formed as shown in Figures 1 and 2 is secured to the main frame, 1,
of the machine and is for the purpose of engaging the channel formed in the sole of
the shoe preparatory to coming to be sewn. The guide, 36, beside forming a guide to
the line of sewing, is a support to the needle, 16, by a projection thereof extending
below and almost touching the said needle, 16, which projection supports the said
needle, 16, when piercing the work.
The cam, 6, fixed on the main shaft, 3, operates the traveller, 38, on the lever, 39,
the said traveller, 38, being held against the cam, 6, by the spring, 40. The lever, 39,
is secured at its lower extremity by the bolt, 41, upon which the said lever vibrates
an is secured to the bracket, 42, bolted to the end of the frame 1.
The lever, 39, supports two friction pawls, 43 and 44, the former of which is rigidly

page_text: secured to the said lever 39, and coupled to the latter pawl, 44, by the bar 45, by
means of the screws 46 and 47.
The pawls, 43 and 44, are for the purpose of engaging the incline friction
blocks, 48 and 49 on the end of each of the presser-bars 50, and 51, respectively.
The bar 50, is provided with a spring, 53, located around it and bearing on a suitable
collar so as to hold the presser foot, 52, in close contact with the work, and the
guide, 36, engaged in the channel therein. The bar, 51, is similarly providel with a
spring, 55, to assist in bearing against the shoe along with the presser foot, 52. On
the outer end of the friction block, 48 is provided a roller, 54, bearing against and in
rear of the lever, 39, so that when the said lever, 39, is drawn back the same movement
is imparted to the presser foot, 52, through the medium of the bar, 50, all actuated by
the cam 6. The bars, 50 and 51, are supported in the hangers, 56 and 57, extending
from the lower side of the main frame of the machine. On any convenient part in
the vicinity of the cast-on 32, means for holding a spool, 58, or any convenient form
of supply of metallic wire, is provided.
In Figure 4, the groove in the cam, 4, is exhibited as having considerably less
curvature, in the position or side shown, than in the part shown in Figure 1, the
purpose of the reduced curvature being to cause a correspondingly reduced movement
of the needle, 16, during the transit of the portion of the cam, 4, referred to, the
purpose of which is to allow the looper, 35, to form the loop around the neodle, 16,
at this part of each revolution of the cam, 4. The cam 25, on the outer end of the
shaft, 8, will (in revolving with the cam, 4, on the same shaft 3.) have come in
contact with and depressed the block, 30, on the slide bar, 26, and revolved the
cast-on pinion, 34, and looper, 35, carrying the wire, from the position shown in
Figure 2, over to the left hand side and round beneath the needle, 16. On the
continuation of the revolution of the shaft 3, and the cams, 4 and 25, thereon, the
block, 30, will be released, and actunted by the spring, 31, will immediately regain
its normal position, vibrating the looper, 33, in the reverse direction or back to the
position shown in Figure 2, holding the wire looped around the needle, 16, ready to
form the stitch by the ascent or withdrawal of the needle, 16, drawing the loop
through the work and through the loop already on the needle 16. The stitches
formed by the machine are a succession of loops each one drawn through the
preceding one. It is evident that the tendency will be to draw the wire tightly on
the upper of the shoe, or the side drawn from, and that the opposite, or the channel
side will have less tension thereon.
While the work is being pierced by the needle 16, and the loop formed for the
stitch by the movements of the cams, 4, and 25, the cam 5, comes into operation
against the traveller, 18, on the feed lever, 19, compresses the spring, 20, (shown best
in Figure 2) and operates the fulcrum pin, 14, against which the said lever, 19,
normally rests. In operating the pin, 14, the spring 15, located around it and
boaring against the needle lever, 13. and the main frame, 1, is compressed similarly
as spring 20, and the said needle lever, 13, is moved laterally the distance intended
for the next stitch, thereby deflecting the connecting bar, 12, at its joints. When
the cam, 4, has caused the needle, 16, to be disengaged from the work, the cam, 5,
through its connections releases the springs, 15, and 20, the former one throwing
the needle lever, 13, to its normal position, and the one in which it depresses and
pierces the work.
The needle lever, 13, it will be observed, has two motions; a curvilinear motion in
the vertical plane, and a reciprocating one in the horizontal-the said motions
alternating.
The cam, 6, on the main shaft, 3, operates the traveller, 38, on the lever, 39, from
the position shown in Figure 1, to that in Figure 4, by means of the strip forming
the cam; thereby releasing tho grip of the pawls 43 and 44, from the blocks, 48
and 19, and compressing the spring, 53. The spring, 40, maintains the lever, 39
constantly bearing against the cam, 6, and the pawls, 43 and 44, engaged with the
blocks, 48 and 49. The cam, 6, through the medium of the lover, 39, and roller, 54,
operates the presser foot, 52, to release it sufficiently from the work at the instant

page_text: the needle lever, 13, is being deflected to place the work in position for the next
stitch, that is, just before the needle, 16, is withdrawn from the work, and at the same
time the looper, 35, is forming the loop over the needle, 16.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said Invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what we
claim is,―
1. A sewing machine for the purpose hereinbefore specified and composed of a
main frame 1 supporting at its upper limbs, 2, the main shaft, 3, carrying the
cans, 4, 5, 6 and 25 the cam 4, operates the needle lover 13, by means of the
bell-crank 7, slot 1, bolt, 11, and connecting-bar, 12; the cam 5, operates the feed
movement of the needle lever, 13, by means of the traveller, 18, lever, 19, feed
regulator, 24, and pin, 14, carrying the said needle lever, 13; the cam, 6, operates
the presser-foot, 52, carrying the cast-on pinion, 34, and looper, 35, by means of the
roller, 38, lover, 39, pawls, 43 and 44, connecting-bar, 45, roller, 54, blocks, 48
and 49 on the bars, 50 and 51 carrying the springs, 53 and 55, and supported in the
hangers 6 and 57; the cam, 25, operates the cast-on, 32, in forming the loop over
the needle, 16, by means of the slide bar, 26, block, 30, spring, 31, and rack, 33;
the said main frame 1, carries the work-guide, 36, to assist the needle, 16, the
bracket, 27, guides the slide bar, 26, the bracket, 22, supports the lever, 19, and the
bracket, 42, supports the lever, 39, pawls, 43 and 44, bar, 45, and roller 54, all
supported by the main frame, 1, on suitable legs, substantially as shown and
doscribed.
2. In a sewing machine for the purpose specified the combination of the main shaft 3,
supporting the grooved cam 4, suitably connected to the vertical-arm of the bell-
crank, 7, secured to the main-frame, 1, and having in its horizontal-arm a curved
slot, 10, having secured in it the bolt, 11, securing the hinged-connecting-bar, 12,
connected to and operating the needle lever, 183, vibrating on the fulcrum pin, 14,
operating in the end of main-frame 1, said needle lever, 18, containing the needle, 16,
all substantially as shown and for the purpose specified.
3. In a sewing machine for the purpose specified, the combination of the main-
shaft, 3, with the cam, 5, supported on it and operating by friction the traveller, 18,
suitably secured to the upper extremity of the feed-lever 19, vibrating centrally on
the screw, 21, securing said lever, 19, to the main-frame, 1, said lever, 19, operating
the fulcrum-pin, 14, secured in the needle lever, 13, rigidly and operating it; said
lever, 19, pressed outward at its lower extremity by the spring, 20, substantially as
shown and for the purpose specified.
4. In a sewing machine for the purpose specified, the combination of the main
shaft, 3, with the cam, 5, supported on it and operating by friction the traveller, 18,
suitably secured to the upper extremity of the feed-lever, 19, vibrating centrally on
the screw, 21, securing the said lever to the main-frame 1, by the bracket 22; said
lever having secured to its lower extremity the feed-regulator, 24, suitably secured
and adjustable by means of the slot, 23, and operating the fulcrum-pin, 14, secured
in the needle-lever, 13, and operating it; said feed lover, 19, pressed outward by the
spring, 20, substantially as shown and for the purpose specified.
5. In a sewing machine for the purpose specified, the combination of the main-
shaft, 3, having the cam, 25, secured on its outer end operating the block, 30, secured
on the slide-bar, 26, and through the bracket, 27, suitably secured on the main-
frame, 1, and guiding said slide-bar, 26, operating vertically through the spring, 31,
compressed between said block, 30 and the main-frame, 1, said bar having secured
on its extremity the rack, 38, in mesh with the looper, 35, suitably secured in the
presser-foot, substantially as shown and for the purpose specified.
6. In a sewing machine for the purpose specified the combination of the main-
shaft, 3, supporting the cam, 6, operating the traveller, 38, on lever 39, and
maintained in contact by spring 40, connecting said lever, 39 to main-frame 1; said
lever 39, supporting pawls, 43 and 44 coupled together by bar 45, secured thereto
and all parts secured to and supported by bracket, 42, secured to main-frame, 1, said

page_text: pawls, 43 and 44, engaging the incline blocks, 48 and 49 on presser-bars, 50 and 51
supported in hangers 56 and 57 and secured in contact with the shoe by springs 53
and 55; roller 54 on block 48, secured in contact with lever 39, by said spring 53,
all substantially as shown and for the purpose specified.
7. In combination with a sewing machine for the purpose specified, the feed-
guide, 36, formed with a notch down at its extremity and bevelled at one side to
engage the shoe, substantially as shown and for the purpose specified.
8. In combination with a sowing machine for the purpose specified, the curved-
needle, 16, having a transversely rounded groove extending across one side at a
suitable distance from the point, thence along the under side spirally or by twist and
terminating on the opposite side near the point; the said groove across the side
forming a hook, substantially as shown and for the purpose specified.
Dated the 7th day of November 1889
WHITE & WOODINGTON,
27, Southampton Buildings, London, Agents.