Improvements in Sewing Machinery for Use in the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes.
Year: 1897

page_text: Date of Application, 4th May., 1897-Accepted, 18th Dec., 1897.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Sewing Machinery for Use in the Manufacture of
Boots and Shoes.
(A communication from abroad by JAMES MILLSON BROOKS, Gentlem in of Petersham,
in the State of Massachusettes one of the United States of America.)
I ALFRED GEORGE BROOKES of 55 and 56 Chancery Lane in the County of London,
Chartered Patent Agent do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in
and by the following statement :--
This invention relates to shoe sewing machines, and particularly to machines of
that general class adapted to unite the outer sole to the welt of what is commonly
known as "welted" boots and shoes, by the interlocking of two threads forming the
usual lock stitch.
The improved machine hereinafter to be described has a rotary shuttle, which is
driven continuously but at a variable speed, the said shuttle having a loose face plate
on a portion of which the shuttle thread lies, and cooperating with the face plate
thread measuring and locking device is provided, which in one position acts upon and
pulls a portion of the shuttle thread from the cop in the shuttle, to be used in the
next stitch, and in its other position the device locks the shuttle thread, preventing
its delivery.
The position within the work of the interlocking portion of the threads for each
stitch is thus determined by or through the shuttle thread, a predetermined length
thereof being measured or drawn off prior to the formation of each stitch, irrespective
of the thickness of the work, the needle thread accommodating itself to such
variation in thickness.
The shuttle thread, after it has been drawn off or measured, is locked during the
completion of the stitch formation, so that the interlocking portions of the two
loops of thread will always be at a fixed distance from the upper surface of the work,
which latter rests upon a stationary work support.
The needle thread is laid in the open hook or barb in one side of a preferably curved
needle, by a looper, cooperating with a thread guide inclined in front of and across
the needle path, the looper and thread guide being mounted upon or carried by the
work-support, the inclination of the thread guide tending to draw the thread directly
into the needle hook.
Herein the device for measuring the shuttle thread is shown as a finger supported
independently of the shuttle, means being provided to move said finger at the proper
time, and also to bring a stop into position to act upon and lock said thread lying on
the face plate of the shuttle.
The machine is also provided with a take-up to give up to the shuttle
sufficient needle thread to be passed about it and thereby interlocked with the shuttle
thread in usual manner, said take-up having thereon a tension device to act upon the
thread at all times, yet permitting an excess of needle thread to be drawn off for the
formation of the stitch whenever required by the thickness of the work.

page_text: The shuttle and the means for giving it the requisite movement herein shewn
and described are of novel and peculiar construction, as will hereinafter appear.
In sewing machines for sewing outer soles or welts, it has usually been customary
and considered necessary to employ a measuring device to act on the needle thread
and automatically take from the needle supply a varying quantity of thread sufficient
for the thickness of the material at the stitch next to be made, and then said thread
is locked and held while the take-up acts to take up the loop and complete the
stitch.
In this improved machine, the variable measuring and locking devices for the
needle thread have been dispensed with, and instead the thread is taken from
the wax-pot and the extra thread is controlled by a peculiar take-up, consisting
essentially as herein shown of a movable arm provided at some point with a frictionally
held thread sheave about which the needle thread is wound, said arm having a range
of movement sufficient to give to the needle all of the thread required to pass over the
shuttle and in its reverse movement to take up completely all the loop discharged
froin the shuttle, the sheave rotating a little as the take up finishes its backward
movement to enable it to automatically give up the necessary amount of thread to
complete the stitch and in both these movements the thread is taut without any
slack between the sheave and the work.
The take up arm is shown as provided with a plurality of sheaves the extra
sheaves merely serving the purpose of thread guides, the thread being at all times
taut between the said sheaves.
The take-up arm is shown as pivoted, and the sheave or guide nearest its pivotal
end is so located that in the forward movement of the take-up to give up thread
for the stitch to be made, it will act on the needle thread between the arm and the
wax-pot and pull thread from the, wax pot sufficient for material of the greatest
thickness.
Providing the take-up arm with a frictionally held sheave is a matter of very great
importance and said sheave will preferably be mounted near the free end of the
said arın.
. By giving out and taking up the thread wholly by movement of the take-up,
while the latter carries the thread, all devices over which the thread has heretofore
been drawn in such action are dispensed with, and the thread is not subjected to
wear and strain over devices which deflect it from a straight line pull, nor is the
thread flattened or crushed by locking it..
It is a great desideratum in sole sewing machines where the seam has to be made
in close quarters, as in the shank, that the parts for manipulating the thread be
arranged in the most compact space possible.
To effect this the work support has been made narrow and close to it there is
arranged a circularly moving shuttle of peculiar construction, it having its periphery
bevelled from its back and front to an edge which is substantially at the median line
of the shuttle, or at the middle in the direction of its thickness, the point of the
shuttle hook lying a little to one side of said median line and branching towards
its base or root in opposite directions to the front and back of the shuttle.
The shuttle has a deep, circular non-continuous groove entirely within its body,
in which the point of the hooked needle normally stands, with its end substantially
at the median line of the shuttle, and the needle is moved forward from its normal
position to engage the needle thread just after the heel of the shuttle passes
the needle, leaving a clear space in front of the latter.
The shuttle at that time is moving at its slowest speed and the needle enters the
stock, engages the needle thread and pulls it through the material, and holds it
just in the path of the point of the shuttle hook as the latter arrives in the rotation.
of the shuttle, into position to enter the needle loop, the breast of the shuttle
hook being of such shape as to coöperate with the rear side of the loop and
lift the thread from the book of the needle.
The loop having been discharged from the needle the point of the latter again
enters and stands in the groove in the body of the shuttle.

page_text: DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.
Fig. 1 is a front elevation, partially broken out, of a sole sewing machine embodying
my invention, the lower part of the supporting standard being omitted.
Fig. 1 is a detail sectional view taken on the line x-x Fig. 1 of the feed
regulating mechanism to be described.
Fig. 2 is a top or plan view of the machine shown in Fig. 1, the balance wheel
and clutch being partially broken out to show the construction more clearly.
Fig. 3 is a vertical sectional view taken on the line x-x, Fig. 1, looking to the
right, with the oil cup omitted.
Fig. 3 is a transverse sectional detail on the line 3-³, Fig. 3, of the tension
device on the take-up lever enlarged.
Fig 3 shows details of the tension device and its support.
Fig. 4 is a vertical sectional view on the line x-x. Fig. 2 looking to the left.
Fig. 5 is an enlarged perspective view of the awl and awl segment.
Fig. 6 is a similar view of the needle, needle segment and needle hook guard.
Fig 6 is a side elevation of the needle and awl segments in position side by
side.
Fig. 6B is a perspective detail of the stop for the needle guard.
Fig. 7, on an enlarged scale, in front elevation, shows the shuttle, work support,
and presser foot, the needle and awl being retracted, the shuttle thread being locked,
and the shuttle moving at its slowest speed.
Fig. 8 is a like view of the stitch-forming devices, the presser being omitted, the
awl being shown as in and having fed the work, the shuttle having been moved
forward a short distance in the direction of the arrow 8.
Fig. 9, a similar view, but showing the needle as entering the work and about to
have the loop of needle thread placed within its hook or barb by the looper.
Fig. 10 shows inore clearly the movement of the needle thread by the looper, the
latter having passed to the rear of the needle.
Fig. 10 is a side view of the parts shown in Fig. 10, with the looper at two points
in its path of movement.
Fig. 1 shows the shuttle as having moved in the direction of the arrow 11
sufficiently to bring its hook into position to take from the needle its loop of needle
thread, the nee lle being shown as nearly at the upper end of its path of movement.
Fig. 12 shows the position of the parts after the shuttle has made substantially a
complete revolution in the direction of the arrow 12, from its position shown in
Fig. 7, carrying the loop of needle thread around the shuttle and the shuttle thread,
a fixed or me isured length of the latter having been drawn off, as will be described,
and locked from further delivery until the stitch is completed.
Fig. 13 is a perspective view of the looper detached.
Fig. 14 is a transverse sectional view of the shuttle and its cop support or case,
taken on the line y, Fig. 11.
Fig. 1 is a side elevation or edge view of the shuttle looking towards the loop
taking point.
"
Fig. 16 is a detail view, in elevation, of the shuttle actuating device.
Figs 17 and 18 are developinents of the faces of the gears shown in Fig. 16.
Fig. 19 is a perspective view of the looper actuating cam.
Fig. 20 is a detached detail view in elevation of the pressure controlling mechanisin.
Fig. 21 is a detached perspective view of the finger or device for measuring and
locking the shuttle thread.
Fig. 22 is a plan view of the wax pots.
Fig. 23 is a rear elevation of the shuttle.
Fig. 24 is a diametral section thereof on the line x¹-zo, Fig. 23, looking to the left.
Fig. 25 is a similar section on the line xx, Fig. 23.
Fig. 26 is an edge view of the shuttle shown in Fig 23, looking in the direction of
the arrow 226, and
Fig. 27 is a similar view looking in the direction of arrow 227.

page_text: The head or main frame of the machine A has a main shaft B, provided with a
fly-wheel loosely mounted on it, said fly wheel co-operating with a clutch pulley on
the shaft and under the control of a suitable treadle, so that the machine will be
started and stopped when desired.
Bearings A3 on the head of the machine are bored transversely to receive a sliding
shaft made hollow at one end to receive a spring 8, said spring being acted upon by a
threaded nut a screwed into the said bearing, the rotation of the said nut. acting on the
said spring and causing the end of the said sliding shaft to be pressed against the
stitch regulating can al at the lower end of a vertical shaft mounted in the said
head, said vertical shaft. having at its upper end a hand piece ³ by which to
partially rotate it and cause the stitch regulating cam, by its changed position, to
regulate the extent of throw of said sliding shaft, and consequently the length of
the stitch.
The sliding shaft a has secured to it rigidly arns a³, which are extended upwardly
through a slot at the front of the head of the machine, said arms having bosses as,
which slide in bearings 25 on the head.
"
One of these bosses a receives the enlarged end b* of an awl carrying rock-shaft b,
to hich is attached an awl segment 1, provided with a curved awl 62, the point of
which is upturned to penetrate the work frame below, said bearing preventing
longitudinal movement of the shaft b and the parts separated thereby in one direction.
The sliding shaft is provided with a roller or other stud at, which is held against
one side of a cam groove in a disc C fast to the main shaft, one side of said
cam groove having a cam projection a" which, when it moves said roller stud a',
moves the sliding shaft in a direction to effect the feed of the work, the spring, before
referred to, in said sliding shaft, thereby acting to return it against the stitch
regulating can a', it being understood that the smaller the return stroke or the
movement of the said sliding shaft, the shorter will be the feed and the length of
stitch and vice versa.
The needle c, gr oved and having a hook at one end-
-near its end, is secured to a
needle segment having a laterally extended hub c2 clearly shown in Fig. 6, said hub
being adapted to turn freely upon the shaft b, a reedle hook guard c formning part
of a split hub or boss cf being frictionally secured upon the hub of the needle
segment by a suitable set screw c³.
The needle segment and hook guard are mounted upon the awl carrying
rock-shaft b between the awl segment and the boss as at one end of the arms
referred to, extended from the sliding shaft, said rock shaft being moved laterally
with the sliding shaft during the feeding of the work, but the needle and awl
have an oscillating motion given them about the centre of said rock-shaft by means
to be described.
The hub of the hook guard is cut away to form a notch e, which is provided at
one end with a shoulder c7, see Fig. 6, which engages an upturned lug c of a guard
stop cº, shown separately in Fig. 6B, attached to the boss at the end of one of the arms
projecting from the sliding shaft by a suitable screw, the said guard stop stopping
the hook guard.
When the needle is retracted the friction between the hub of the hook guard and
the hub of the needle segment. c2 will carry the hook guard back with the needle
until stopped by the engagement of the shoulder c7 of the hook guard against the said
inturned lugs, and when the needle has completed its backward throw its hub will
be covered and completely protected by the book guard, as shown in Figs 3, 6.
and 6A.
As the needle moves towards the work, the hook guard moves therewith by friction
and will ordinarily engage the work and be stopped thereby, but the needle continues
to move into the work, its hook being uncovered, and the cam at such time acts to
guide the needile.
If the work should be very thin, the hook guard will be stopped in its forward à
movement by engagement of the notch in the hub of the hook guard with the bottom
stop, co

page_text: The rear upper part of the head receives a rod or shaft D (in bearings A5) see
Figs 2, 3 and 4, and the take up needle and awl device are mounted to rock
thereupon, the needle actuating device being shown as a lever d, Fig. 3, having a
long sleeve-like hub d'; through which said shaft D is extended, said lever D having
at one end a toothed segment d² which engages the toothed needie segment c¹,
said lever having a roller or other stud d³, see Fig. 3, which enters a cam groove di
in the face of a cam disc C fast to the main shift, the shape of said groove being
mostly shown by dotted lines in Fig. 3, said cam disc being rotated in the direction
of the arrows 30, Figs. 3 and 4.
The shape of this can groove is such that the needle will be retracted from the
work, taking with it the needle thread in the form of a loop and holding said loop,
so that the point of a loop-taker may enter and take the loop of needle thread from
the hook of the needle and then a part do of said groove d further retracts the
needle until its hook is concealed within the hook guard c³, it being retained in such
position while the shuttle is rotated in its raceway through said loop interlocking
the shuttle thread with the loop of needle thread, the needle remaining in such
position until the awl has entered the work, fed it forward and begun to withdraw
from the work.
The awl segment 61 is engaged by a toothed segment at the end of an arm e,
having an elongated sleeve-like hub e¹, which is mounted loosely upon the shaft D,
said arm e being provided with a roller or other stud which enters the cam groove e'
at the inner face of a cam disc E fast on said main shaft, the awl being oscillated at the
proper times to enter and recede from the work.
The work rest F is upturned from the head and is properly rounded at f to present
an acute or bevelled edge to enter between the welt and the upper and support the
shoe upside down on the work rest with the outer sole uppermost.
The needle thread t, Fig 3 is led from the take-up m about a guide sheave fl
mounted on the work support, and thence through a groove f* in the outer face of
said work support, said groove being enlarged at the upper end, and the work support
being cut away at fo as shown best in Figs 7 to 10 inclusive, to leave a downwardly
inclined edge which extends across the plane of and in front of the needle path.
The needle thread, as it is delivered to the needle by the roller, passes through
the enlarged upper end of said longitudinal groove over the inclined edge to
the interior of the work-support, and thence up through the needle opening f³ therein,
see Figs. 3, 4 and 10%, and also passing through the said opening to penetrate the
work from below.
The work support is recessed near its lower end and a spring hook is locate !
therein, the hook acting upon the thread keeping it taut as it passes up the outerside
of the work-support should there be any irregularities in the movement of the
take-up.
at
The looper, shown separately in Fig. 13, at its upper end is offset, and notched
to engage the thread, the looper being carried by an arın 1, standing within
the hollow work-support, said arin being rigidly secured to a horizontal rock-shaft (2,
which not only rocks but may move longitudinally in a suitable hub-like bearing Aº,
see Fig. 1, extended laterally from the lower part of the work support.
The rock-shaft carrying the looper is provided with an arm 3 upon which is
mounted a roller held by a spring s against an edge cam 5 on the cam disc C, see
Figs. 2 and 19 and dotted lines Fig. 3, a raised portion of the said cam disc acting
upon the roller to impart to the rock-shaft 2 its rocking movement, as when the
looper is moved rearwardly from the front of the work-support, to thereby carry the
needle thread & back across the path of the needle.
The hub of the arm has a stud provided with a roll h, see Fig. 1 and dotted
lines Fig. 3, located at right angles to the roller which was acted upon to rock the
shaft l, a suitable spring & acting to keep the lever mounted on the hub of the said
arın in engagement with the face cam on the outer face of a disc C, shown in
Fig. 19.
A raised portion 10 of the cam of the said disc moves the looper, viewing Fig. 7,

page_text: into position to meet the needle thread, and thereafter the looper is moved to one
side of the arc in which the needle works, as represented by dotted lines, Fig. 10,
so that the said needle, when it descends, may pass between the looper and the
inclined edge of the work support, the thread lying at the hooked side of the said
needle.
While the needle remains in the work, as in Fig. 10, a raised portion 18 of cam 15
moves the looper to the rear, and at the same time it is moved to the left and back
of the needle, so that the thread is drawn down the inclined edge of the work
support into the open hook of the needle, which needle then rises as the looper
returns to its normal position near the front of the work-support.
The movement of the looper to the rear and left hand, as described, also serves to
measure or draw off a sufficient length of thread as it is given up by the take-up to
form one side of the loop, the looper thereafter giving up the needle thread to the
needle as the latter rises into position to have its loop removed therefrom by the
point of the loop-taker or shuttle, thus completing the other side of the loop,
the continued movement of the taker in the same direction giving up thread, as the
looper passes through the loop of needle thread.
This drawing off of the needle thread by the looper prevents rending of the needle
thread through the needle hook, as the latter rises, which is a point of great in-
portance in a machine running at high speed for it obviates fraying or breaking of
the thread.
The work is clamped upon the work-support as the awl ascends through the work
by a suitable presser P, the said presser releasing the work when the latter is to be
fed forward by a lateral movement of the awl, the wedge a acting on a roller a', as
has been described, the presser again clamping the work as the awl is withdrawn,
holding it clamped while the needle thread t comes forward to enter the awl hole and
receive the loop of needle thread.
The head of the machine is cut away above the work support to form a tubular,
circular recess or race to receive the loop-taker, it being continuously rotated at a
variable speed, the shuttle being shown in section in Figs. 3 and 4, and on a larger
scale in Figs. 11, 12, 14 and 15, and Figs 23 to 25 inclusive.
The shuttle herein shown is discoidal in shape, it having a closed, substantially
circular end or bottom h, the annular side walls h*, *, of the body flaring oppositely
and being held out interiorly from near the heel to near the point or beak of the
shuttle, see Figs 14, 24 and 25, to thus lessen its weight.
The outer edge or periphery of the flaring side walls of the loop-taker has a
cylindrical lip or flange h² concentric to the axis of rotation of the shuttle, the outer
and inner faces of the said flange forming a bearing to support the shuttle in the
raceway in its rotation and the end wall and the cylinder end or bot toin is extended
heyond the edge of the said flange, as shown clearly in Figs. 14, 24, 25 and 27, to
provide a circular groove on the rear side of the loop-taker, which is located within
the plane of the said bottom h, the said bottom having erected upon its inner side a
conical stud ³, over which fits the tapering hub of a circular thread case k upon
which is wound the shuttle thread t¹, a screw entering the end of the said stud
containing the thread case in the shuttle.
The end of the shuttle thread is drawn from the thread case through an opening in
the centre of a circular face plate h¹, having a lip or flange ht, which embraces the
circular open end of the thread case, the face plate forming a removable end for the
shuttle, and covering the thread in the thread case.
The face plate and thread case remain stationary while the shuttle rotates.
This face plate, see Figs 7 to 12 inclusive and Fig. 14, is thickened or enlarged
diametrically to form a rib at its outer side, said rib having a radial hole or
passage leading from its inner face at or near its centre to its outer face, and the
shuttle thread emerging from this hole in the face of the rib, and is then led into a
groove h of the said rib, and out through a passage in a nose or extension of the
ribs, said nose projecting beyond the circumference of the face plate, the shuttle
thread being delivered through the said nose close to the 'work.

page_text: The rib h is notched transversely at hº to intersect the thread guide h', and a
thread measuring or drawing off device enters said notch and acts upon the shuttle
thread in the said notch and depresses it at times, said drawing-off device acting on
the thread between the shuttle and the work, so that a predetermined amount of
thread is drawn from the thread case to provide requisite shuttle thread for the next
stitch.
The body of the shuttle and the lateral flange h³ at its periphery are cut away for
the entrance of the shuttle actuator, to be described.
One end of the flange of the shuttle thus cutaway is bevelled inwardly at gradually
from the side wall h¹ and reduced constantly in width, see Figs. 14, 15, 26and 27, to form
n hook, the gradual increase in width from the point 13 of the hook to the full
width of the flange h³ having the edge h¹³x of the point, forming a bevel to the side
of the hook, which, acting within the loop of needle thread, spreads it, while the
upwardly and inwardly inclined edge of the said hook, it inclining toward the
centre of the shuttle and forming the root of the hook, acts to spread the loop of
needle thread as the shuttle rotates, such spreading removing the loop of needle
thread from the hook of the needle.
After the shuttle in its rotation removes the loop of needle thread from the needle,
the said needle retires from the work, and the hook is concealed in the hook guard
while the loop of needle thread is cast off from and carried about the shuttle, the
loop of needle thread surrounding the shuttle thread previously measured off.
When the hook of a needle arrives in such position, see Fig. 12, that the loop of
needle thread is almost drawn off from the nose h of the face plate by the take-up,
the measured off portion of the shuttle thread in the said nose is at that time slack
and locked, as will be described, so that no more thread can be drawn for that stitch,
the measuring and consequently locking of the shuttle thread being effected only
after the outer side of the loop of needle thread has passed through the nose of the
face plate.
As the loop of needle thread is drawn down into the work resting on the work
support, the said loop will interlock with the measured or fixed length of the shuttle
thread and the interlocked portion of the two loops, as represented by t*, will be
drawn into the work for a certain distance below its upper surface or below the
bottom of the channel made for the work, said distance being regulated by the length
of the shuttle thread finally measured or drawn off.
A yoke y, Figs 1, 2 and 4, having a shank y¹ extended into a hole in the face of
the head A, above and at one side of the centre of the shuttle is held in adjusted
position by a set screw y³, engaging the said shank y¹, see dotted lines Fig. 2, the
yoke providing bearings for a rock shaft r, provided with a gear, which is located
between collars 1 and 2 on said shaft, the lower end of said rock shaft being shaped
to constitute a finger, which is adapted at times to enter the notch hº and act
upon the shuttle thread , depressing it into said notch on the face plate and drawing
on the shuttle thread to pull from the bobbin case a sufficient length of such thread
to correspond with the quantity required for the next stitch, the quantity so drawn
off depending upon the extent of movement of the finger in said notch.
The acting end of the shaft r and finger resemble somewhat the thumb and finger
of the human hand, the part corresponding to the fore-finger, and a part 3
corresponding to the thumb, the part 3 when it acts, bearing on the shuttle thread
in the groove h' in the rib of the face plate and locking said thread so that it cannot
move at all.
This part is made to act and hold the thread from being delivered from the
shuttle as the take-up is completing the stitch, so that the shuttle thread cannot at
such time be drawn off.
A rod is mounted to slide horizontally in a bearing A, and said rod has at its
front end a rack to engage the teeth of the gear r¹, referred to, on the shaft, a
spring & surrounding the rod between its bearing and a nut adjustable on said rod
serving to retract the rod and turn the shaft r at the proper times to relieve the

page_text: pressure of the part 3 from the shuttle thread to unlock it, and at the same time
cause the part to enter the notch and measure off shuttle thread.
The slide rod is pivotally connected at 77 to a bell crank lever 78, having a sleeve-
like hub mounted to rock on a laterally extended hub ma* of the take-up regulating
arın m³, said bell crank lever having a roll 10, which is held in engagement with
the periphery of a cam disc E said disc, see dotted lines Fig. 4, having a depression 11
for a portion of its length, to receive the said roll 10, thereby permitting the spring 850
to remove the rack and partially turn the shaft r, and with it the part which enters
the said notch to act on and draw off a definite portion of the thread from the thread
cam of the shuttle.
To adjust or vary the length of thread measured or drawn off, from the thread
case, the slide rod has been provided with an adjustable roll 51, which meets an
adjustable detent 750, confined in position by a screw 762, mounted on a pawl
actuating lever p20, the adjustment of the stop varying the length of the shuttle
thread which shall be measured off.
The less the movement of the slide rod 4, the less the length of shuttle thread
which will be drawn off and vice versa.
A slightly depressed portion 712 of a cam on the main shaft retains the part 23
which locks the thread on the part 2 which measures off the thread, away from or
out of contact with the thread, when the loop of needle thread is passing the
face-plate of the shuttle, but when, the loops of needle and shuttle thread are to
be drawn into the work by the hook of the shuttle, a low part of the said cam
permits a spring 870, before described, to operate the measuring finger and then
the higher portion of the cam acts upon the roll 10 and moves the slide rod **
positively to cause the thread to be locked.
As the measured portion of shuttle thread is always of the same predetermined
length for each and every stitch, it follows that the interlocking of each and every
stitch will be located within the work at substantially the same distance from its
outer surface; in this instance, the sole of the shoe, any inequalities in thickness
being accommodated by the needle thread.
'
The needle after the loop of needle thread has been removed therefrom, is retracted
until its point is protected by the flange and the adjacent wall of the shuttle,
while the hook guard c³ covers the opening of the hook.
A circular groove or race g¹ formed in the base of the head A receives the flange h
of the shuttle, the said groove acting as a raceway and retaining the shuttle in
position during its circular movement, a curved retaining plate g³ secured to the
bead by suitable screws *, projecting. over one of the inclined side, walls of the
shuttle, thus keeping it 'in place.
.
A shaft h20 by which to effect the rotation of the shuttle has its bearings in the
head, see Figs. 3 and 4, provided at its forwardly extended end with a laterally
extended arm 2 flanged at h2, see Fig..7, the arm entering a recess g behind the
shuttle, the flange entering a cut away portion 2 of the shuttle body and its
laterally extended flange, said flanged arm actuating the shuttle as the shaft 20
referred to is rotated.
The shuttle in its rotation engages the loop of needle thread, passes through it,
and the loop readily passes between the shuttle and the said laterally extended.arm
of the shuttle actuator, see Figs. 3 and. 12.
The shuttle actuating shaft 20 has fast on it a gear 2 in mesh with an
intermediate smaller gear h" mounted on a stud in the head, said intermediate gear
meshing with a larger gear 25 secured to a shaft h2, see Fig. 2, mounted in a long
bearing A located at substantially a right angle to the main shaft B.
The shaft 20 has secured to it a circular gear h" having say fifteen spirally
arranged teeth, varying slightly in angularity, see Fig. 17, the said spirally
arranged teeth meshing with the teeth of a larger circular gear 2 mounted on the
main shaft B and secured by suitable screws h2 to a cam disc E fast on said main
shaft.
'
The teeth of this larger circular gear are peculiar, that is, they differ in length

page_text: and in angularity, the longer teeth of less angularity when acting upon the gear
baving the spirally arranged teeth imparting to said gear and its shaft a slow rate of
speed, while the shorter teeth of greater angularity on said larger circular gear when
they act upon the spirally arranged teeth produce a high rate of speed in the shaft
carrying the gear having the spirally arranged teeth, so that the speed of rotation of
the said gear h having the spirally arranged teeth and actuating the shuttle is
variable, the variation being such that the shuttle while being continuously rotated
in the same direction will move faster at some portions of each cycle than at other
portious, and a machine conntaining this peculiar shuttle deriving its rotation from
this peculiar gearing, may be run at a very high speed without detriment, for there
is no inertia to be overcome, neither is there any shock or jar, as in the case of an
oscillatory shuttle.
Herein the shuttle inakes one complete rotation for each stitch.
While the awl and the needle are moving one after another to enter the work, the
shuttle is rotated at its slowest speed, its hook or point being about the position
shown in Fig. 7, the shuttle rotating in the direction of arrow 7 until the needle c
in engagement with the loop of thread t is withdrawn from the work, see Fig. 11
ready to have the point 13 of the shuttle enter the loop.
From this point the shuttle moves with increasing speed to spread the loop of
needle thread engaged by it, the latter being thus carried around the shuttle and its
thread while the shuttle attains its highest speed and thereafter the speed decreases
to the minimum.
The shuttle is retained in its place by means of a curved plate g² it having a lug or
projection go one side of and adjacent to the nose 48 of the face plate.
A wing or auxiliary plate is secured to the said curved plate by suitable
Screw at the opposite side of the nose preventing the face plate h from rotating
with the shuttle, yet the wing or auxiliary plate does not interfere with the loop of
needle thread being carried around by the shuttle and permits it to be released
readily, said wing also serving to prevent undue bowing out or snarling of the loop as
it is cast off from the shuttle.
The nose h of the face plate of the shuttle by guiding the loop down to the work
protects the shuttle thread and prevents snarling of the loop of needle thread.
The take-up lever m, see Fig. 3, is suitably clamped upon a rod or shaft D by a set
Ecrew 70.
This take-up lever is bent between its ends and has secured to it adjacent its
fulcrum a toothed segment m¹ which engages with the teeth of a segment m² at one
end of an arın m³ fast on a rock shaft M, şaid rock shaft having secured to it a second
arm m, see dotted lines Fig. 3, which is provided with a roller or other stud m³ that
enters a cain groove mº, shown in full lines Fig. 19 in the face of a cam disc or hub C
fast on the main shaft, the rotation of the said disc or hub rocking the shaft M and
actuating the take-up lever to swing its free end forward and upward, while the needle
thread is being carried around the shuttle, and thereafter the take-up is put into a
position, see Fig. 3, to tighten the stitch.
The needle thread comes from a suitable wax-pot P' located near the take-up, it
passing through a clamp or tension device represented as a spring 80 carried by the
take-up near its fulcrum, thence around suitable grooved sheaves m' and m* carried
by the take-up lever, and thence completely around a tension sheaven mounted in
the free end of the raid take-up lever, and from thence the thread passes to the
stationary guide sheave Dear the looper, it being thereafter engaged by the stitch-
forming device.
The sheaven over which the thread passes as described is mounted to turn on a
stud extender from the take-up lever m, see Fig. 3 and 3B.
The stul on which the said sheave n is mounted is threaded at its outer end and
receives a nut n¹ having ratchet teeth, see Fig. 3, which are engaged by a suitable
spring detent n² carried by the stid lever, the said detent preventing accidental
rotation of the nut.
By turning the nut n' up more or less tightly, the friction upon the sheaven and
B

page_text: consequently the tension on the needle thread is regulated, the detent n² maintaining
the tension in adjusted position.
The thread between the clamp 820, referred to as carried by the take-up lever, and
the sheaven at the free end of said lever, is always maintained taut by reason of
the sheaves m² and m³ carried by said lever, so that it cannot fly about in the
movement of the take-up and thus catch on any adjacent parts of the machine.
On the forward movement of the take-up towards the stitch forming mechanism a
quantity of thread will be drawn from the wax pot more than sufficient to provide
for the next stitch, and as the take-up is returned or moved oppositely it draws the
thread taut, and if the thickness of the work in which the last stitch is made should
require more than the average quantity of needle thread to be drawn off, the
excess of thread required will be taken from the slack between the wax pot and the
clamp $20, the sheaven turning the necessary amount.
-
By making the take-up lever m of very light or thin stock and the tension
sheave also of light weight, it is possible to overcome the effects which would be due
to momentum were the parts made heavier.
The needle thread is left free between the tension sheave at the end of the take-up
and the work-support, and the movineent of the take-up and its sheaven is such that
it, becomes possible to make one long stroke take up the loop of needle thread, thus
doing away with usual multiplying devices.
The various parts of the machine are kept warm by means of suitable steam
circulation pipes and ducts made in the head and sheaves as I will now describe.
In Fig 22 I have shown two wax pots P1 and P2, the former for the needle-thread
and the latter for the shuttle-thread, said wax pots being heated, preferably, by
steam exhausted therefrom through pipes p, p', respectively, branching from a
common exhaust Px, leading to a suitable point of discharge.
The shuttle thread is only drawn from its wax pot when winding a cop or bobbin,
and it is therefore desirable to be enabled to turn off the heating medium from said
wax-pot when not in use, and for its purpose, I have inserted in the branch pipe pl
a suitable valve at v, so that such pot can be disconnected from the exhaust
independently of the pot P. So too, in order to cut off the needle-thread wax-pot P!,
I have interposed a valve v¹ in the branch p, so that it can be cut off when desired
from the exhaust.
•
A common union-inlet p² connects the front ends of the wax-pots, and a pipe p³
Fig. 3 leads thereto from a hollow curved heater p¹, having a plain outer face,
against which the take up lever slides in order to maintain the thread soft on its
way to the stitch forming devices, Fig. 3 showing clearly the proximity of the
thread to the heater p between the tension sheaven and the guide-sheave fl when
the take up is retracted, the front end of the heater p* extending up to the base of
the work support. Referring now to Fig. 1 the front of the head A is provided with
a duct or passage po, (see dotted lines,) connected at its lower end by a pipe ps to
the upper front end of the heater p* to conduct the steam or other heating medium
thereto after passing through the head adjacent the stitch forming devices, said duct
or passage passing through the rear rear of the work-support and near the recess
- in which the bobbin-carrier moves to maintain the latter heated, the pipe p' serving
to conduct the live steam to the head.
The head has an upwardly extended projection or bearing A10 at its front which is
slotted to receive a slide block p20 acted upon by a spring 825 controlled as to its ten-
sion by a suitable aut p", see Figs. 1 and 2, and this slide block has securely bolted
to it the presser foot P which rests on the work.
The slide block extends through the projection or bearing A¹ to its rear side, see
Figs 2 and 3, where it has formed upon it two sets of oppositely inclined or reversed
ratchet teeth p21, p³, in vertical alignment with each other, and co-operating
respectively with these teeth are two pawls p, p, carried by a stud 500 of a slotted
pawl carrier p25 secured to a horizontally arranged rock shaft N mounted in bearings
A12 of the head, said rock shaft, see Figs. 2 and 4 having fast thereon à lever p26
provided with a roller, or other, stud 2027 which enters a face cam groove p23 in a cam

page_text: disc E, clearly shown in Fig. 4, and fast on the main shaft, the shape of the said
groove being such that the presser foot will be positively lifted during the feeding
of the work by the awl, certain portions of the said can as between the points 200
and 201 then acting and the presser foot will be thereafter depressed by its spring 525
and will be held clamped upon the work, while other portions of the said cam as
between the points 201 and 202 act, the needle at such time descending into the
work and being retracted therefrom, and thereafter the lock on the presser foot is
released until the awl is about to enter the work, as when the portions of 'the said
cam, as between the points 202 and 203 act, and then the presser foot is again
clamped or locked positively upon the work while the portions of the said cam
between 203 and 200 act.
The two pawls referred to, 2 and p2+ are oppositely extended so as to engage with
one or the other of the series of ratchet teeth cut into the sair block.
The shield 90, fixed on a part of the main frame or head, covers more or less of the
uppermost series of the said ratchet teeth p21 according to the thickness of the work
under the presser foot, so that when the pawl carrier p25 is raised, it having a constant
throw, the uppermost pawl p³ mounted on it will engage the mtchet teeth and raise
the presser foot a certain defined or determinate distance above the work, no matter
what the thickness of the work, for when the work is thicker, thus raising the
presser foot, the pawl will engage a tooth farther from the top tooth of the series,
for the thicker the work the more teeth will be uncovered above the shield and
vice versa.
When the pawl carrier pas descends the lowermost pawl pet will engage the first
uncovered tooth of the ratchet p2 at the end of the shield 92 and will lock the
presser foot positively upon the work, the presser foot spring 823 being more or less
compressed according to the thickness of the work.
If the work is thick, the pawl p24 in its down stroke will engage only the teeth
of the ratchet 222, which are exposed under the shield 92, and the point of engagement
of this pawl with the said teeth will vary according to the thickness of the work.
These pawls are kept bearing equally on the shields and towards the ratchet teeth
by a spring saddle pacted upon by a spring pressed pin p30 in the pawl carrier.
By engaging a hand lever p having an offset toe p which normally rests under a
projection p from the slide block carrying the presser foot, the presser may be lifted
when desired by hand, if the pawls p and p2 have their points lying on the shield.
The face plate h¹ of the shuttle has projecting from it at one side of the nose h³ a
guard which lifts the needle thread loop over the shuttle thread as it crosses the
face plate, thus preventing accidental catching of the loop of needle thread with the
shuttle thread as it is carried around the shuttle, for such accidental catching might
draw off from the shuttle additional unwanted thread.
In Fig. 17, the teeth, of the gear 7 having the spiral teeth, are indicated by
a series of small numbers from 1 to 15 inclusive and the spaces between the teeth 30
of the gear 2s, said teeth varying in angularity and length, are indicated in
Fig. 18 by numbers from 1 to 15 inclusive, this being done to show the particular
spaces which are entered by the particular teeth of the gear h having the spiral
teeth.
In Figs. 1 to 4, I have shown the gear h having spiral teeth fast on a shaft 20,
which through a train of intermediate gears h, 21, h, rotates the shuttle actuating
shaft, but the gear having the spiral teeth might be mounted, directly upon
the shuttle actuator shaft, as represented in Fig. 16, the intermediate gears referre.l
to and represented in Figs. 1 to 4, being used chiefly to enable the novel shuttle
driving gear with teeth differing in length and angularity to be used with the head
and main shaft shown without disturbance of relation of the other parts.
By reversing the location of the needle hook, that is, placing it at the opposite side
of the needle and rotating the shuttle in the reverse direction from that shown a lock
stitch with a knot at the crossing will be formed.
The sole function and purpose of the take-up is to take up the loop of the needle
thread and pull needle thread from the wax pot, and said take-up in no way

page_text: co-operates with any measuring device or pull off for the needle thread to thus control
its delivery, for herein the frictionally held sheave at the free end of the take-up is
depended upon wholly to take up the loop of needle thread and give up thread held
by it as required, and said sheave does not rotate except in the delivery of the thread
in the formation of the stitch.
The movement of the sheaven at the free end of the take-up lever is in a very
slight or flat curve, so that the pull on the thread between the work and the sheave
is in a substantially straight line without any sharp or other bends.
By the term "length," referring to the teeth of the spiral gears as herein used, is
meant the distance from one to the other end of each tooth measured from its face in
the direction of the plane of rotation of the gear.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
clain is:
1. In a sewing machine of the class described, devices to form a loop of needle
thread, a shuttle containing a bobbin, an independent co-operating measuring device
to measure a fixed quantity of shuttle thread to be interlocked with the needle loop,
a take-up to draw the interlocked portion of said thread into the work, and a shuttle
thread locking device to determine the position of the interlocked loops in the work,
substantially as described.
2. In a sewing machine of the class described, stitch forming mechanism including
a hooked needle, a shuttle, and its contained bobbin, means independent of the
shuttle to measure a fixed quantity of shuttle thread to be interlocked with the
needle, a take-up, and a locking device for the shuttle-thread, substantially as
described.
3. In a sewing machine of the class described, stitch forming devices, including a
shuttle having a bobbin, means independent of the shuttle to draw off a measured
quantity of shuttle thread, and a lock to prevent feed of the said thread at pre-
determined times, substantially as described.
4. In a sewing machine of the class described, stitch-forming devices, including
a shuttle having a bobbin, a stationary face-plate having a longitudinal thread guide
and a transverse intersecting notch, and an independent finger to at times engage
the shuttle thread and depress it into the notch, to thereby draw off a measured
quantity of the thread, substantially as described.
5. In a machine of the class described, stitchforming devices, including a rotating
shuttle having a contained bobbin, a face plate having a thread delivery and an
external thread guide, and a locking device movable towards and from the guide, to
directly engage and clamp the exposed shuttle thread and prevent delivery thereof
at predetermined times, substantially as described.
6. In a machine of the class described, stitch forming devices, including a shuttle
having a bobbin, a face plate having a thread guide and an intersecting depression,
and a connected finger and stop, to alternately act directly upon the shuttle thread,
to respectively draw off a fixed quantity of shuttle thread and to thereafter positively
lock said shuttle thread and prevent its delivery, substantially as described.
7. In a machine of the class described, a rotable shuttle having a contained
bobbin, an independent face plate having a depression in its face below the path of
the thread, a shaft provided with a finger to engage and nove a portion of the thread
into said recess, to thereby measure a fixed quantity of shuttle thread, and means
to rock the shaft at predetermined times, to move the finger into operative or
inoperative position, substantially as described.
8. In a sewing machine, a shuttle having a noncontinuous circular flange projecting
rearwardly therefrom, a support for the shuttle having a curved race to receive the
flange, a continuously rotated actuator to operate the shuttle, and a fixed retaining
device independent of said actuator to hold the shuttle in its race, substantially as
described.
9. In a sewing machine, a shuttle, its support, and means to rotate the shuttle

page_text: continuously in one direction at a variable speed, said means comprising two circular
gears of different diameters, having an equal number of spiral teeth, whereby the
gears rotate synchronously, the teeth of the driving gear varying in angularity and
length, substantially as described.
10. A discoidal bobbin for a sewing machine containing shuttle consisting of a
fixed circular end, a removable circular end, an intermediate annular connecting wall
inwardly flared from each of said ends, and a noncontinuous flange extended
rearwardly from the periphery of said wall parallel with the shuttlo axis, substantially
as described.
11. In a sewing machine, a shuttle, means to rotate it, a stationary face plate for
and independent of the shuttle, having a thread passage and guide, and a delivery
nose for the thread, radially extended beyond the face plate, substantially as
described.
12. In a sewing machine, a rotatable shuttle, its support, a face plate for the
shuttle, having a thread passage communicating with the interior of the shuttle, and
a thread delivery, and a fixed retaining device for the shuttle, having projections to
engage and prevent rotation of the face plate, substantially as described.
13. A shuttle having an open and a closed circular end, a cop or bobbin holder
loosely mounted axially upon the closed end, and a detachable face plate adapted to
engage the cop holder, said face plate having an external rib provided with a
diametrical thread guide, an intersecting depression, and a radially extended delivery
nose, substantially as described.
14. In a sewing machine, a shuttle, a guide in which it may rotate, a shuttle
actuator, and its shaft, and means to rotate the said shaft in one direction at a
variable speed, said means including two gears having spiral teeth, the teeth of the
driving gear varying in angularity and length, substantially as described.
15. In a sewing machine, a continuously rotating shuttle, a support therefor, and
means to rotate the shuttle in one direction at a variable speed, said means comprising
two gears having spiral teeth, the teeth of the said gears varying in angularity and
length, substantially as described.
16. In a sewing machine, an oscillating hooked needle, means to actuate it, a
shuttle, its support, and means to continuously rotate the shuttle in one direction
at a variable speed, said means including two gears having spiral teeth, the teeth of
the driving gear varying in length and angularity, the shuttle making one complete
rotation for each oscillation of the needle, substantially as described.
17. In a sole sewing machine, a work-support having a needle hole and a thread
guide below said hole the upper end of said guide terminating in an opening having
a downwardly inclined edge in front of the needle path and over which edge the thread
passes, a curved hooked needle to enter the needle hole, and a looper to engage the
thread between the needle hole and the inclined edge of the guide to put it into
position to be taken by the needle hook, substantially as described.
18. In a sewing machine, a rotating shuttle, a stationary face plate therefor
having an open thread guide, a stop supported independently of the shuttle, and
means to move said stop to act upon the shuttle thread and to clamp it upon the
said face plate, substantially as described.
19. In a sewing machine, a rotating shuttle, a stationary face plate therefor
having an exterior recess crossed by the shuttle thread, a finger supported
independently of the shuttle, and means to move said finger against the thread and
into the recess in the face plate, to draw off a fixed quantity of shuttle thread,
substantially as described.
20. In a sewing machine, a shuttle, a stationary face plate having an open thread
guide and an intersecting recess, and an independently supported shuttle having a
thread locking mechanism and a measuring device, one clamping the thread against
the face plate to lock it, and the other engaging the thread in the recess to measure
off a fixed length of shuttle thread, substantially as described.
21. A discoidal shuttle for a sewing machine, having a closed circular end, an
axially mounted cop holder thereon, an annular wall having sides inwardly divergent

page_text: from its periphery, a non-continuous rearwardly extended flange on the wall having
a hook in continuation of said flange, and a closure for the shuttle and cop holder,
adapted to be secured to the latter, substantially as described.
22. In a sewing machine, an oscillating hooked needle, ineans to actuate it, a
shuttle, and means to rotate it continuously in one direction at a variable speed, said
means including two gears having spiral teeth varying in angularity and length, the
teeth of the driving gear of greater angularity and length cooperating with the
teeth of lesser angularity and length on the driven gear, to decrease the speed of
the shuttle at the loop taking point, substantially as described.
23. In a sewing machine, a rotatable shuttle, a face-plate over which the shuttle
thread is led and exposed, a, thread locking mechanism and measuring device, to
alternately engage the shuttle thread, and means to actuate said locking and
measuring device and to retain it out of engagement with the shuttle thread as the
loop of needle thread passes around the shuttle, substantially as described.
24. In a sewing machine, a feeding awl, a shaft upon which it is mounted, and
baving a longitudinal recess in one end thereof, means to positively move said shaft
lengitudinally to effect the feed, a spring located within said recess to return the
shaft and awl into starting position, an adjusting shaft provided with a cam to bear
against the opposite end of the awl shaft, and means to rotate said cam shaft to
thereby regulate the length of feed, substantially as described.
25. In a sole sewing machine, stitch forming devices, including an oscillating
hooked needle, a looper cooperating therewith, a shuttle having a contained bobbin,
said shuttle being moved in a path at right angles to and intersecting the needle
path, a peripheral flange at the rear end of said shuttle, cut away to perimit passage
of the needle and having a hook at one end of said recess to enter and spread the
Loop of needle thread, and a needle guard, said needle when retracted being protected
by the flange and guard, substantially as described.
26. In a sewing machine, a shuttle adapted to pass through a loop of thread, a
non-continuous circula ange projecting rearwardly therefrom, but within the plane
of the shuttle cn'' provided with a loop engaging hook, a shuttle support having
a curved race to receive the said flange, and means to continuously rotate said shuttle
at a variable speed, substantially as described.
27. In a sole sewing machine, a fixed support, a yielding presser having two sets
of oppositely inclined ratchet teeth upon its bar, a pawl carrier having a constant
throw, two concentrically mounted, oppositely pointed pawl fingers thereon, one for
each of said sets of ratchet teeth, and a fixed shield to permit more or less of the
ratchet teeth of both sets to be exposed according to the thickness of the work,
engagement of one of said pawl fingers with its set of teeth lifting the presser, the
other pawl finger locking the presser when in engagement with its set of teeth,
substantially as described.
28. In a sole sewing machine, a fixed work-support, a yielding presser having
two sets of oppositely inclined ratchet teeth in alignment upon its bar, a fixed shield
to permit more or less of the ratchet teeth to be exposed according to the thickness
of the work, a pawl carrier having a constant throw, and two concentrically mounted,
oppositely pointed pawls thereon adapted to ride over the shield and engage the
exposed ratchet teeth at the end thereof, one pawl serving to positively lift the
presser and the other pawl to hold it clamped upon the work, substantially as
described.
29. In a wax-thread sewing machine, stitch forming devices, a wax pot, a take-up
intermediate said wax-pot and stitch-forming devices, to draw thread from the former
and cooperate with the latter in the formation of the stitch, tension devices on said
take up, and adjusting means whereby said devices may be made to act constantly
and uniformly upon the thread, substantially as described.
30. In a sewing machine, a thread-supply, stitch forming devices, an intermediate
take-up arm, a thread tension device thereon, adjusting means to cause said devices
to act constantly and uniformly upon the thread, and means to move said arm to
draw off thread from the supply and deliver it to the stitch-forming devices, and to

page_text: hereafter draw the thread taut to complete the stitch, the tension device yielding
o the pull of the thread when the stitch is completed, substantially as described.
31. In a sewing machine, a take-up lever bent between its ends, means to actuate
t, a spring clamp near its fulcrum, to bear upon the thread, an adjustable tension
heave at the delivery end of said lever, and guide sheaves intermediate said devices,
o maintain the thread taut at all times on and during movement of the said lever,
substantially as described.
32. In a wax thread sewing machine, stitch forming devices, a wax pot, a take-up
ntermediate said wax pot and stitch forming devices to draw thread from the former
and cooperate with the latter in the formation of the stitch, and constantly and
uniformly acting tension devices on said take-up, substantially as described.
33. In a sewing machine, a thread supply, stitch forming devices, an intermediate
take-up arm, a constantly and uniformly acting thread tension device thereon, and
means to move said arın to draw off thread from the supply and deliver it to the
stitch forming devices, and to thereafter draw the thread taut to complete the stitch,
the tension device yielding to the pull of the thread when the stitch is completed,
substantially as described.
34. The use in a sewing machine, having a thread supply, and stitch forming
devices including a shuttle, of a take-up arm located between said supply and stitch
forming devices and provided with a sheave, means to hold said sheave to act upon
the thread with a constant and measured degree of friction to enable it to aid in
drawing back the thread in completing the stitch, and means to move said arm
positively to give up to the shuttle the necessary thread loop to pass around it, and
thereafter to take up said thread, substantially as described.
35. In a sewing machine, a thread supply, stitch forming devices, including a
rotatable shuttle, a take-up arm to draw thread from the supply during one direction
of its movement, and to give up thread to the shuttle as required thereby in the
formation of the loop, said arm having at one end a sheave, and means to hold the
said sheave to act upon the thread with a constant and measured degree of friction
to enable it to draw back the thread and complete the stitch after withdrawing the
loop of needle thread from the shuttle, and means to move said arm positively,
substantially as described.
36. In a wax thread sewing machine, a vibrating take-up having at its free end a
frictionally held tension sheave, and an arc-shaped heating surface against which the
end of the take-up bears throughout its movement, to thus continuously and
uniformly heat the said sheave and the thread as drawn off therefrom, substantially
as described.
37. In a sewing machine, a rotatable shuttle to pass entirely through a loop of
needle thread, and having a non-continuous cylindrical flange projecting rearwardly
from the periphery of the shuttle body, one end of said flange tapering in the
direction of its length to form a book and loop spreader, substantially as described.
38. In a sewing machine, the use with stitch-forming devices comprising a hooked
needle, of a circularly moving shuttle, a looper, and a take-up having a frictionally
held sheave thereon, adjusting means for said sheave, to cause it to act with a
constant and measured degree of friction upon the thread, actuating mechanism for
said take-up and looper, whereby the former gives up thread to the looper as it lays
the thread in the hook of the needle, and needle and shuttle actuating means,
continued movement of the take-up giving up needle thread as the loop thereof
passes around the shuttle, substantially as described.
39. In a sewing machine, a rotatable shuttle to pass entirely through a loop of
thread, it having a non-continuous cylindrical flange projecting rearwardly from the
periphery of the shuttle body, one end of said flange tapering in the direction of its
length to form a hook and loop spreader, substantially as described.
40. In a sewing machine of the class described, the following instrumentalities,
5 viz: a curved hooked needle, a circularly movable shuttle, a looper, a take-up
provided at its end with a frictionally held sheave about which the needle thread is
wound, and means to move the said devices in the order substantially as described,

page_text: whereby the take-up is made to give up to the looper the thread to be presented to
the hook of the needle, and then by a further movement in the same direction give
up sufficient needle thread to enable the shuttle to pass through a loop therein, when
the take-up by a movement in the reverse direction pulls the thread of the loop
discharged from the shuttle directly back from the work on which the stitch is made
and completes the stitch, substantially as described.
41. In a sewing machine of the class described, the following instrumentalities,
viz: a curved hooked needle, a circularly moving shuttle having a point to enter and
expand the loop of needle thread, and a take-up provided with a frictionally-held
sheave, and meaus to move said sheave toward the material while the shuttle is
passing through the loop of needle thread, and to move it away from the inaterial
after the loop of needle thread has been carried around the shuttle, whereby the
sheave is enabled to exert a direct pull on the needle thread extended from it to the
material when completing the stitch, substantially as described.
42. In a sewing machine, a rotatable shuttle having a contained bobbin, an in-
dependent face plate having a recess in its face below the path of the thread a finger
to engage and move a portion of the thread into the recess to measure a fixed quantity
of shuttle thread, and means to actuate, the finger at predetermined times, and an
adjusting device to regulate the movement of the finger and thereby the amount of
shuttle thread drawn off, substantially as described.
43. A circularly moving shuttle having a hook provided with an inwardly inclined
breast, said shuttle having at its rear side an inwardly directed groove one side of
which presents a bevel substantially tangent to the path of the needle, and a non-
continuous flange extended towards but within the plane of the back of the shuttle
to form the other side of said groove, said flange being tapered to join the base of
said hook, and a curved hooked needle adapted to enter said groove adjacent the
stitch forining point, the tapering part of said flange and the inclined breast of the
hook serving to lift the thread from the hook of the needle, substantially as
described.
44. In a sewing machine, a circularly moving shuttle, provided with a hook and
having at its rear side a groove leading from the side of the point of said hook, and
a curved hook needle to enter and stand in said groove during the passage of the
shuttle through the loop of needle thread, whereby the point of the needle may
remain close to the stitch forming point in position to have the thread taken froin
it by the hook. of the shuttle, substantially as described.
45. In a sewing machine of the class described, a shuttle having at its median line
a hook provided with an inclined breast and having at its rear side a groove wholly
within the plane of the shuttle back and extended inwardly nearly to the inedian
line of the shuttle, and a curved booked needle adapted to enter said groove and
stand when fully retracted with its hook substantially in the path of rotation of the
point of the shuttle hook, substantially as described.
46. In a sewing machine of the class described, a curved hooked needle to form
a loop, n work support, a circularly movable shuttle located above the work support
and provided with a bobbin case, and a face plate provided with a thread delivery
nose extended down nearly to the surface of the material, the said nose receiving
and aiding in delivering the cast off loop of needle thread close to the material,
substantially as described.
47. In a sewing machine of the class described, a work support, a curved hooked
needle, a circularly movable shuttle located in a vertical plane above the said work
support and at right angles to the path of the needle, said shuttle having its
periphery oppositely beveled and having a hook the point of which is at one side of
the median line of the shuttle, said shuttle having at its rear side and wholly
within its body a groove open at the heel of the shuttle, and means to move, the
said shuttle at a variable speed to cause the needle to operate to take the needle
thread between the heel and point of the shuttle hook, substantially as described.
48. In a sewing machine of the class described, a looper, a curved hooked needle
and a shuttle, and means to move them, and a take up arm provided with a

page_text: frictionally held thread sheave, a controlling device, and means to move said arm or
sheave in one direction to supply the thread required by the looper, the needle and
the shuttle, and to move them in the opposite direction after the loop of needle
thread has been passed around the shuttle to draw the discharged loop back
through the material, the take-up at all times keeping the thread taut between it
and the devices manipulating it in the formation of the loop, and taking up the
loop as soon as discharged from said device, substantially as described.
49. In a sewing machine of the class described, a work support having a recess
therein, a guide roll at the lower portion thereof, and a take-up movable towards and
from said guide roll, and a yielding hook mounted in a recess in the work support
and in engagement with the thread between said guide roll and the material,
to normally deflect the thread slightly, but permitting the thread to assume a
straight line when under tenison to compensate for stretch in the thread, substantially
as described.
50. In a sewing machine of the class described, the use with a shuttle having at its
median line a book provided with an inclined breast, and having a groove in its body
extended inwardly to the plane of the path of the shuttle hook point, of a curved
hooked needle adapted to enter said groove, and stand when fully retracted with its
hook substantially in the path of rotation of said hook point, substantially as described.
51. In a sewing machine of the class described, a curved, hooked needle to form
a loop, a work support, a circularly movable shuttle located above the work support
and provided with a bobbin case, and a face plate provided with a thread-delivery
nose extending to the periphery of the shuttle, the said nose receiving and aiding in
delivering the cast-off loop of needle thread close to the material, substantially as
described.
ed the 3rd day or
1897.
WM. BROOKES & SON,
55 & 56 Chancery Lane, London, Agent for the Applicants.