Year: 1888

page_text: I, WILLIAM HENRY DORMAN of The Hawthorns, Newport Road Stafford, in the
county of Stafford, Engineer do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in
what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
n and by the following statement :-
My invention is adapted more particularly to be used with Machines of the class
described in the Specification of former Letters Patent dated Octr. 23, 1884
No. 14059, that is to say, machines designed to be used either for sewing the soles
to the uppers of boots or shoes in "turned" work, or for sewing on the welts in the
manufacture of boots or shoes, according to the so-called "hand-made" principle.
In the accompanying Drawings-
Figure 1 is a side elevation.
Fig. 2 is the same, but viewed from the opposite side.
Fig. 3 is a front elevation.
Fig. 4 is a view shewing a section of a boot while being sewn.
Fig. 5 is the same, but with the needle in the forward position.
Fig. 6 is a front elevation of the same.
Fig. 7 is a plan of the same.
The same letters refer to the same parts.
A Machine of this class works with a single thread, and makes the stitch known
as the "chain stitch."
The boot is sewn on the last and is presented to the machine bottom upwards.
The sole or insole is prepared with an inside and outside channel, the outside channel
is sometimes reduced till it is a mere feather edge or bevel, the stitch is taken through
the boot-upper and welt, if any, from one channel to the other through the inter-
vening substance of the sole or insole often called the "between substance."
In a machine of this construction the movement of the needle is outwards from
the machine i.e. it enters from the outside of the boot, and passes inwards, that is to
say, through the inside channel in the sole or insole towards the middle of the boot.
The looper standing over the boot lays the thread round the needle while the barb
is through the inside "channel consequently the stitch in the inside channel is straight,

page_text: and the loop or chain is laid round on the outside of the welt, or on the upper
if "turned work" is being sewn.
The needle on its return after the thread has been laid round the barb draws the
thread through the "between substance" of the sole or insole; from the inside
channel, towards the outside, and in so doing tightens the previously formed stitch
drawing the loop of thread strongly outwards, that is, towards the edge of the sole.
This straining of the thread towards the outside is found, in some instances, to be
injurious in practice. If a light or poor insole is used there is danger of tearing up
the channel, also the stress of sewing, instead of tending to tighten the upper over
the last, works rather to draw the upper away from the last and so far tends to
unlast the boot. In order to mitigate this effect, a contrivance is made use of, which
is described in the above mentioned specification of former Letters Patent No. 14059
of 1884-It consists of a spike which by suitable mechanism is made to enter the
"between substance" at proper times and support it against the outward pull.
The object of my invention is to tighten the stitch towards the middle of the inner
sole, that is, in an inward direction, and to throw the stress of sewing onto the
outside of the welt or upper as the case may be, and so relieve the inside channel,
and thus to cause the stress of sewing to draw the upper towards the middle part of
the sole, and tighten it on to the last. In order to accomplish this, I remove the
contrivance described in the above named specification of Letters Patent No. 14059
of 1884, for supporting the "between substance" against the outward pull, and I
place a part A in the machine frame just behind the needle race B. At the lower
end of the part A is a pin C so placed that its end touches the surface of the insolo;
it stands nearly close to the path of the needle D, and, during the greater part of the
revolution is close to the edge of the inside channel E. When the looper has placed
the thread round the needle, the pin C is included in the triangular space, the sides
of which are formed by the thread reaching from the previous stitch to the needle, and
by the needle, and by the edge of the channel, respectively, consequently, when the
needle on its return movement draws in the thread, it draws it round the pin C and the
pull as the slack is gradually taken up comes upon the pin C & the stress of sewing
strains the work towards the pin, that is to say, inwards towards the centre of the sole
instead of outwards. As soon as the needle has retreated sufficiently far to take up
nearly all the slack thread, but not to tighten the stitch, it is brought to rest, and the
pin C with the thread still round it receives a forward movement, parallel to the path
of the needle in the direction of the middle of the sole, the effect of this is, that the
bight of thread lying around the pin, is strongly strained, and as the line of thread,
reaching to the barb is held by the needle and by the tension, and in cases where this
proves insufficient, by a locking apparatus specially provided, the line of thread
reaching to the just formed stitch must give way to the movement of the pin C, and
in so doing, the stitch just previously formed is firmly drawn up and tightened in an
inward direction, that is, towards the centre of the boot-As soon as the pin C reaches
the end of its movement, and has tightened up the last formed stitch, it is caused to
rise up from the surface of the insole and recede, shedding off the bight of thread.
In this it may be assisted if necessary by a cast off. The needle then resumes its
backward motion, and pulls up the greater part of the bight of slack thread shed
from the pin C.
The awl meanwhile enters the work and feeds it forward in readiness for the next
stitch.
As soon as the feed has taken place, and the awl has been withdrawn, the
pin C descends to its first position, touching the surface of the sole, the needle comes
through the work again, and the looper carries the thread around the barb, and the
operation re-commences.
The method of carrying into effect the above described operations is as follows:-
The bar A having at its lower end the pin and in its upper end the slot F, is carried
on a crank pin G on which it is free to oscillate while it is retained sideways by the
needle race B on one side and the main frame S of the machine on the other.
The crank pin G forms part of the short shaft H and serves to raise & lower the
bar A when the shaft H is partially revolved..

page_text: Upon the other ond of the shaft H is mounted a lever I which is connected by
the spring link K to the lever L and is operated by the cam M.
Upon the cam M is formed a projection N which, by means of the cam roll O and
Bell crank Lever P pivotted to the main frame at Q, imparts motion through the
link T to the lever U.
The cam roll O is kept up to the cam by the spring R.
The lever U is adjustably fixed upon the short shaft V which is carried in a
bearing W on the main frame S.
The shaft V carries at its other end a lever X, and pin Y which works in the slot F
of the bar A.
The work Z while still upon the last a is presented to the machine in the usual
manner, the feed dog b entering the inside channel E and the boot resting against
the broad gauge c, the back gauge or welt gauge as the case may be, which are both
of the usual construction taking over against the outside channel g in the ordinary
manner. During the operation of sewing, the thread d is carried by the looper e round
the needle D and includes the pin C in the triangle, y. z Fig. 7 formed by the
needle D the thread d, and the lip of the inside channel E. As the needle returns
carrying with it the thread dit draws the thread round the pin C. As soon as the
needle D has returned far enough to take up the slack thread, but not to tighten the
stitch, it stops, a rest or "dwell" for this purpose being formed on the needle cam.
The cam piece N now comes into action, and, by means of the Bell crank lever P
and the connected mechanism causes the bar A to oscillate on the crank pin G, and
the pin C to move outwards towards the centre of the sole or insole, as shewn in
Figs. 1. 2 & 4, pulling tight the recently formed stitch.
The pin C having come to the end of its travel, it returns, and at the same time the
cam M comes into action, and the cam lever L with the connection to the crank pin G,
causes the pin C to lift from the surface of the leather, as shown in dotted lines Fig. 4,
The d off the thread.
The needle then retreats to the end of its travel.
The awl fenters the work and feeds it forward for the next stitch and withdraws.
pin C descends to its first position in readiness for the next stitch.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
In a machine for sewing in welts or sewing "turned" work, the use of a pin
operating in the bight of thread formed in taking a stitch, which pin has a movement
outwards from the machine, so as to tighten the stitch towards the middle part of the
boot, substantially as described.
1000