Improvements in the Manufacture of Velvet.
Year: 1888

page_text: Date of Application, 22nd Dec., 1888
Complete Specification Left, 6th Sept., 1889-Accepted, 12th Oct., 1889
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Velvet.
We, SAMUEL CUNLIFFE LISTER, Manufacturer, and JOSE RELXACH, Manager, both
of Manningham Mills, Bradford, in the County of York, do hereby declare the nature
of this invention to be as follows:-
Heretofore in looms for weaving velvet as a double pile fabric face to face a pile
warp has been passed together with a certain number of ground warps through each
of the spaces between the dents of the reed and this pile warp has always been placed
next to one of the dents as it was advantageous to do so when the pile was tied in as
a fast pile as it usually was with three or other number of picks of weft.
Velvets have also been made with the pile loops tied in with a single pick of weft
only as described in the specification of a former Patent to us No. 3327 in the
year 1878:
According to our invention we form a velvet with the pile tied in with a single pick
of weft only and with each pile warp situated between two ground warps which just
before the lying in pick of weft is thrown are both moved in opposite directions to
the pile warp, that is, when the pile warp is down and the shuttle passes over it, the
ground warps are up and the shuttle passes below them so that in the completed
fabric the loops of pile warp get nipped and held between the two ground warps
which are on either side of them.
The pile warps may be worked in two or more sections tied in at different times as
is also shown in the specification above mentioned.
Fabrics woven in the above manner may be woven in single shuttle looms where
the same shuttle is used in the weaving of both top and bottom fabrics but in
order to weave them with fast selvages we prefer to weave them in double shuttle
looms in which two shuttles are thrown simultaneously one for the upper and the other
for the lower fabric. We also form such loom in the manner described in the specifica-
tion of a Patent granted to us No. 2629 in the year 1883.
If the fabric is woven in a single shuttle loom we can also obtain fast selvages by
passing the shuttle three times between the warps of one fabric before passing it into
the warps of the other fabric or by combinations say of passing it twice at one time
and once at the next and so on.
Velvets formed as above described we steam and then dye and subsequently size on
the back if desired. Or we dye the pile warps before weaving and afterwards stiffen
the fabric on the back or first steam and then stiffen.
Dated this 22nd day of December 1888.
CARPMAEL & Co.,
Agents for the Applicants.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Velvet.
We, SAMUEL CUNLIFFE LISTER, Manufacturer, and JOSÉ REIXACH, Manager, both
of Manningham Mills, Bradford, in the County of York, do hereby declare the nature
of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
Heretofore in looms for weaving velvet as a double pile fabric face to face a pile
warp has been passed together with a certain number of ground warps through each
of the spaces between the dents of the reed and this pile warp has always been
placed next to one of the dents as it was advantageous to do so when the pile
Price S1

page_text: was tied in as a fast pile as it usually was with three or other number of picks
of weft.
Velvets have also been made with the pile loops tied in with a single pick of weft
only as described in the Specification of a former Patent to us No. 3327 in the
year 1878.
According to our invention we form a velvet with the pile tied in with a single pick
of weft only and with each pile warp situated between two ground warps which just
before the tieing in pick of weft is thrown are both moved in opposite directions to
the pile warp, that is when the pile warp is down and the shuttle passes over it the
ground warps are up and the shuttle passes below them so that in the completed fabric
the loops of pile warp get nipped and held between the two ground warps which are
on either side of them.
The pile warps may be worked in two or more sections tied in at different times as
is also shewn in the Specification above mentioned.
Fabrics woven in the above manner may be woven in single shuttle looms where
the same shuttle is used in the weaving of both top and bottom fabrics but in order
to weave them with fast selvages we prefer to weave them in double shuttle looms in
which two shuttles are thrown simultaneously one for the upper and the other. for the
lower fabric, we also form such loom in the manner described in the Specification of a
Patent granted to us No. 2629 in the year 1883.
If the fabric is woven in a single shuttle loom we can also obtain fast selvages by
passing the shuttle three times between the warps of one fabric before passing it
into the warps of the other fabric or by combinations say of passing it three at one
time and once at the next and so on.
Velvets formed as above described we steam and then dye and subsequently size on
the back if desired. Or we dye the pile warp before weaving and afterwards stiffen
the fabric on the back or first steam and then stiffen.
The drawing annexed shews diagram views of a fabric woven in the manner we
prefer for carrying out our invention.
Figure 1 is a face view of the cloth the dots a representing the pile issuing from
the ground of the piece. are the ground warps and cc the wefts.
Figure 2 is a cross section of the double pilo fabric before the pile between the two
cloths is cut or severed, the dots c represent the weft threads, the dotted lines b
represent the ground warps interweaving with the weft threads.
Figure 3 shews one of the cloths after the pile has been cut or severed.
It will be seen that the pile warp wherever it is caught into the ground is caught
by a single weft only and that in addition the pile warp where it is so caught in has
on each side of it a ground warp which passes above the weft by which the pile warp
is caught and also a ground warp which passes below it-so that each pile thread is
bound between two ground warps above and two below the .weft. In this way as
there is no crossing of two adjacent pile warp threads in passing from one ground to
the other, and as also the pile is held straight between the warps the pile stands erect
without what are known as pile marks on the pile face.
When the double pile fabric has been woven and the pilo severed the cloths are
steamed and then dried so as to set the loops of pile into the bent form in which they
were held in the cloth.
During the steaming the piece is held by its selvage on books which are fitted upon
a carriage and placed into a steam oven which is hermetically closed and filled with
steam under pressure.
Afterwards if an undyed pile warp has been used the piece is dyed and is sub-
sequently sized on the back-this may be done in the manner described in the
Specification of a former Patent granted to us No. 590 in the year 1880.
If in place of dyeing the piece after it has been woven with a grey pile we use a
dyed pile warp then when the piece has been woven and is out of the looin we gum or
stiffen the back of the cloth before it is finished or we may first steam and then
stiffen.

page_text: The advantage of this cloth is that the pile may be fixed before any finishing is
done which finishing need only consist of brushing and shearing or carding and
shearing whereas if the cloth is dyed in the piece the number of operations are a great
many more before the back can be stiffened.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed wo declare that what we
claim is :-
1. The manufacture of pile fabrics woven double face to face, in which each pile
warp wherever it is held into each ground is caught by a singlo pick of weft only
and in which it is bound between two ground warps, one on either side of it and both
above the pick of weft and also between two other ground warps below the pick of
weft substantially as described.
2. The herein before described process of manufacture of pile fabrics consisting in
first weaving a pile fabric double face to face with dyed pile warp and with each pile
warp wherever held into either ground held with a single pick of weft only and
bound between two ground warps above and two below the pick of weft and after-
wards gumming or sizing the back of the ground or first steaming the fabric and
afterwards gumming or sizing the back.
3. The hereinbefore described process of manufacture of pile fabrics consisting in
first weaving a pile fabric double face to face with each pile warp wherever held into
either ground held with a single pick of weft only and bound between two ground
warps above and two below the weft and afterwards steaming the fabric to fix the
pile then dyeing and afterwards gumming or sizing the back of the ground.
4. The manufacture of pile fabrics substantially as hereinbefore described with
reference to Figures 1, 2 and 3.