IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF LACE
Year: 1874

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Félix Sival, of Neuilly (France) Mechanician,
for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF LACE.”
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Félix Sival at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
14th January 1874.
I, FÉLIX SIVAL, of Neuilly (France) Mechanician, do hereby declare
the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE
OR LACE," to be as follows:-
The object of my Invention is the mechanical manufacture of the
fabric known as Chantilly cloth, which has only hitherto been obtained
by the lace maker or by tulle machines, in which the bobbins vary
either to the left or to the right, that is to say, change their boxes.
The examples which I proceed to give with the help of the accom-
panying Drawings will show the different manners of obtaining this
fabric by the "Leaver" machine, in which the bobbins do not vary, as

page_text: .
can be easily understood. In none of the examples have the bobbins
any occasion to leave their boxes, which gives a great economy of
motion. This mode of work enables a greater quantity of fabric to be
produced and with greater economy. In each example I show in the
special Figures the work and the result.
Example No. 1.—This first example is an exact reproduction of the
cloth manufactured in the " pusher" machine and in the circular
machine, a machine in which the bobbins vary and the threads cross
one another. As will be perceived by referring to the examples in the
Drawing it is sufficient in order to obtain this result in the "Leaver"
machine to invert the respective positions of the warp and bobbin
threads, that is to say, I leave the bobbin threads right instead of as in
the pusher machine; it is the warp threads which form the straight
lines, while the bobbin threads form, the horizontal lines from the right
and left. In the Figures of the Drawings the bobbins are shown by the
points o; the numbers 1, 2, 3, 4, which are marked upon the other
warp threads show the numbers of the bars. The bar No. 1 is the first
bar which is in front, of the machine; No. 2 follows, and so on.
Example No. 2.-This is an exact imitation of the cloth made by the
hand. In order to effect this I only employ one bobbin thread, all the
others are warp threads which cross one another before and after the
passage of the bobbin. Arrived at the edge of the fabric these threads
change with one another or return upon themselves, as the numbering
on the Figure will enable to be understood. As the warp does not
occupy breadth it is necessary to leave as many empty boxes as there
are warp threads, and to carry the latter immediately after their crossing
into the box corresponding to the new position they occupy in the
'fabric.
Example No. 3.-In this example the passages are made by a bobbin
thread. The threads which form the horizontal lines are composed of
bobbin threads and warp threads; the warp threads are on the right
and the bobbin threads on the left. It is the bobbin thread. which
passes; the warp threads have no occasion for special numbering.
Example No. 4.-This is similar to example No. 3, only that the
passages are made by a warp thread, and the bobbin threads are to the
right while the chain threads are to the left.

page_text: Example No. 5.-This only differs from examples 3 and 4 because
there are in the fabric three warp threads for one bobbin thread.
I give the above examples in order to explain my Invention, but I do
not limit myself thereto since the means of obtaining this fabric can on
these principles be infinitely varied.
As may have been remarked the warp threads do not meet in all the
examples, if it is desired that they should do so it is sufficient to run the
threads to the bottom or to repeat an effect similar to the first in the
opposite direction, as shown in the example No. 4.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent
filed by the said Félix Sival in the Great Seal Patent Office on
the 14th July 1874.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, FELIX
SIVAL, of Neuilly (France) Mechanician, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Fourteenth day of January, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-four, in the thirty-
seventh year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors,
give and grant unto me, the said Felix Sival, Her special licence
that I, the said Felix Sival, my executors, administrators, and assigns,
or such others as I, the said Felix Sival, my executors, administrators,
and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time
to time and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed,
should and lawfully might make, use exercise, and vend, within the
United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands,
and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF
LACE," upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said Felix Sival,
my executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my,
or their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly. describe
and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the
same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great
Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately.
after the date of the said Letters. Patent.

page_text: NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Felix Sival, do hereby declare the
nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement thereof, reference being had to the Drawings here-
unto annexed, that is to say :-
The object of my Invention is the mechanical manufacture of the lace
fabric known as Chantilly cloth, which has only hitherto been obtained
by the lace maker or by tulle machines, in which the bobbins vary
either to the left or to the right, that is to say, change their boxes.
The examples which I proceed to give with the help of the accom-
panying Drawings will show the different manners of obtaining this
fabric by the "Leaver" machine, in which the bobbins do not vary, as
can be easily understood. In none of these examples have the bobbins
any occasion to leave their boxes, which gives a great economy of
motion. This mode of work enables a greater quantity of fabric to be
produced and with greater economy. In each example I show in the
special Figures the work and the result.
"
"
Example No. 1.—This first example is an exact reproduction of the
cloth manufactured in the " pusher machines and in the circular
machine, a machine in which the bobbins vary and the threads cross
one another. As will be perceived by referring to the examples in the
Drawing it is sufficient in order to obtain this result in the "Leaver
machine to invert the respective positions of the warp and bobbin
threads, that is to say, I leave the bobbin threads right instead of as in the
'pusher machine; "it is the warp threads which form the straight lines,
while the bobbin threads form the horizontal lines from the right and
left. In the Figures of the Drawings the bobbins are shown by the
points o; the numbers 1, 2, 3, 4, which are marked upon the other warp
threads show the numbers of the bars. The bar No. 1 is the first bar
which is in front of the machine, No. 2 follows, and so on.
"
Example No. 2.-This is an exact imitation of the cloth made by the
hand. In order to effect this I only employ one bobbin thread, all the
others are warp threads which cross one another before and after the
passage of the bobbin. Arrived at the edge of the fabric these threads
change with one another or return. upon themselves, as will be under-
stood by the numbering on the Figure. As the warp does not occupy
breadth it is necessary to leave as many empty boxes as there are warp
threads, and to carry the latter immediately after their crossing

page_text: into the box corresponding to the new position they occupy in the
fabric.
Example No. 3. In this example the passages are made by a bobbin
thread. The threads which form the horizontal lines are composed of
bobbin threads and warp threads; the warp threads are on the right and
the bobbin threads on the left. It is the bobbin thread which passes;
the warp threads have no occasion for special numbering.
Example No. 4.-This is similar to example No. 3, only that the pas-
sages are made by a warp thread, and the bobbin threads are to the
right, while the chain threads are to the left.
Example No. 5.-This only differs from examples 3 and 4 because
there are in the fabric three warp threads for one bobbin thread, whilst
in the other there is a warp thread for each bobbin thread.
I give the above examples in order to explain my Invention, but I do
not limit myself thereto since the means of obtaining this fabric can on
these principles be infinitely varied.
As may have been remarked the warp threads do not meet in all the
examples; if it is desired that they should do so it is sufficient to run the
threads to the bottom or to repeat an effect similar to the first in the
opposite direction, as shown in the example No. 4.
And having now described the nature of my said Invention and in
what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that I claim the
manufacture of the lace fabric known as Chantilly cloth, as herein-before
described and shown with reference to the annexed Drawings.
In witness whereof, I, the said Felix Sival, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Thirtieth day of June, One thousand
eight hundred and seventy-four.
Witness,
CH. ARMENGAUD,
Civil Engineer,
Boulevard de Strasbourg, 23,
Paris.
FELIX SIVAL. (L.S.)