Improvements in Woven Neckties Decreasing and Increasing in Width.
Year: 1895

page_text: Date of Application, 22nd May, 1895
Complete Specification Left, 12th Feb., 1896-Accepted, 16th May,
1896
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Woven Neckties Decreasing and Increasing in
Width.
I, FRIEDRICH OBERSTEBRINK of 69 Gewerbeschulstrasse, Barmen, Rhenish
Prussia, Germany, Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention
to be as follows:-
Neck-ties and cravats for ladies' and gentlemen's dress have been made with a
narrower neck-lace part in the middle of their length, folded and sewn, while the
two sideparts or apron ends are wider. I am well aware of this kind of neck-ties,
also of the kind which is produced on the plaiting or braiding machine in hollow,
hose-like ware, and which also is narrower in the middle or neck-lace part; but it
is not these kinds of neck-ties my improvements refer to, because of their numerous,
in several cases heavy drawbacks and defects dependant on the system of binding,
which restricts these kinds to only a few designs of fancy ornamentation because
the threads of the fabric run diagonally to the main dimension of the stuff or
product; these defects have led me to the invention of a woven, doubled and
hollow-woven or hose-like fabric with alternate wide and narrow parts woven in it,
corresponding to the necessary lengths for neck-ties and hanging ends. This new
product has many advantages over the above named, so it cannot lengthen out or
stretch in length on expense of the original width and has the quality of woven
textile products, on behalf of its parallel threads in weft and wharp, of allowing a
great variation in the coloured ornamental or fancy designs it can get woven in
when made on the shaft or Jaquard-loom; also in the other respects of conserving
its doubled character on the whole extent of the wharp, in the narrow part as well
as in the wider end-parts, this product is very much adapted to answer a long
felt want.
Referring to the accompanying drawing, the neckskarf is represented in
Fig. 1 in a front view, where A is the narrow or neck-lace part, B are the wider
end-parts, and at a¹ to b or a¹ to c is marked the contracting and again widening
out of the wharp.
Fig. 2 is a section showing the hose-like character,
Fig. 3 shows a cravat with tied knot and hanging wide ends.
Fig. 4 shows a necktie with knot and crossed wide ends.
Referring to Figs. 1, 3 and 4 it will be seen, that both end parts B of the neck-
tie are larger in width than the middle part A. This has for its object to give a
better fit of the neck tie when put round a starched and stiff collar, and to give a
better appearance to that part hanging down in front or forming the knot.
The part
B is woven in large and uniform width up to the point b; a reed or
slay being used, in which the single splits stand at an angle to each other, not
parallel as usual, diverging from the lower side towards the upper side, where the
free spaces between the single splits are wider than at the bottom side. This slay
is raised and lowered so as to bring the warp threads closer together or further
appart from each other, as the case may be, and thus the wide parts, the tapering
parts and the narrow part are produced without changing the number of warp
threads. Thus when weaving the part B up to the point the reed is lowered so
that the warp passes through it at its widest part; when making the part ba¹ the
reed is gradually raised drawing the warp threads always closer together until they
reach at a¹ their closest distance with the reed pulled up wholly. Now between a¹-a¹
the narrow part A is woven, the slay being kept in its raised position, the warp

page_text: threads lying quite close. When the part A has been finished the fabric shall be
gradually increased in width from a¹ to c and therefore the slay is gradually lowered
until it reaches its lowest position and with it the warp threads are spread out again
to the full width of the first part B at the point c and now the other part B is
woven in uniform width again.
It need hardly to be observed that the parts B are always woven in double
lengths, that is to say so, that in this part the web can be cut in two and to give
always sufficient length for two neck ties.
It is further to be observed, that the parts B being larger in width are very well
suited for decorative designs to be woven into the front side of the neck tie. This
is then done by the ordinary means for doing such work.
Dated this 5th day of August 1895.
FRIEDRICH OBERSTEBRINK,
Per Karl J. Mayer,
Agent.
Improvements in Woven Neckties Decreasing and Increasing in.
Width.
I, FRIEDRICH OBERSTEBRINK, of Barmen, Gewerbeschulstrasse 69, Rhenish
Prussia Germany, Manufacturer, do hereby declare. the nature of this invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement :—
Neckties and cravats for ladies and gentlemen's dress have been made with a
narrower necklace part in the middle of their length, they were folded and sewn
in this narrow part as well as in the wider or hanging down ends. I am well aware
of this kind of neckties, also of the kind which is produced on the plaiting or
braiding machine in hollow, hose-like ware and which is also narrower in the middle
part or neck-lace part; but it is not to these kinds of neckties my improvement
refers to, because of their numerous, in several cases heavy drawbacks and defects
dependant on, the system of binding which restricts this latter kind to only a few
designs of fancy ornamentatious, because the threads of the fabric run diagonally
to the main dimension of the stuff or product; these defects have led me to the
invention of a woven, doubled and hollow woven or hose-like fabric with alternate
wide and narrow parts woven in it, corresponding to the necessary lengths for
narrow neckties and wide hanging ends.
This new product has many advantages over the above named known fabrics.
It cannot stretch in length on expense of its original width and it has the quality
of woven fabrics on behalf of its parallel threads in weft and warp, of allowing a
great variation in the coloured ornamental or fancy designs, it can get woven in,
when made on the shaft or Jacquard-loom; also in the other respects of conserving
its doubled character on the whole extent of the warp in the narrow part as well
as in the wider end parts, this product is very much adapted to answer a long
felt want.
Referring to the accompanying drawing, the neck-scarf is represented in
Fig.
part;
in a front view showing the ornament design continued in the narrow
Fig. 2 is a cross-section along I-I Fig. 1, showing the hose-like character of
the web;
Fig. 3 is a tied cravat, drawn in a reduced scale, showing the narrow part
forming the neck-lace part and the wider hanging ends;
Fig. 4 is a knotted neck-tie drawn in a reduced scale and with crossed wider
ends and a narrow part going round the neck.

page_text: Referring to Figs. 1, 3 and 4 it will be seen that both end parts B² B³ of the
neck-tie are larger in width than the middle part A. This has for its object to
give a better fit of the necktie when put round a starched or stiff collar and to
give a richer and better appearance to that part which hangs down from the tie, or
which is forming the knot.
The parts B2 B3 are woven in large and uniform width up to the point b, Fig. 1,
a reed or slay being used, in which the single splits stand at an angle to each other,
not parallel as usual, diverging from the lower side towards the upper side, where
the free spaces between the single splits are wider than at the bottom side. This
slay is raised and lowered so as to bring the warp threads closer together or further
apart from each other, as the case may be, and thus the wide parts, the tapering
parts and the narrow part of the necktie web are produced without changing the
number of warp threads.
Thus when weaving the part B up to the point b. the reed is lowered, so that
the warp passes through it at its widest part; when making the part B from 6 to b¹.
the reed is gradually raised, drawing the warp threads always closer together, until
they reach at b' their closest distance with the reed raised or pulled up wholly.
Now between band 63 the narrow part A is woven, the slay or reed being kept in
its raised position, the warp threads being quite close.
When the part A has been woven the fabric shall be gradually increased in width
of part B from 2 to 3 and therefore the slay is gradually lowered until it reaches
its lowest position and with it the warp threads are spread out again to the full
width the first part B2 had at the point b and now the other wide part behind 63 is.
woven in uniform width again, like B³ mentioned before.
The means for performing this kind of weaving are preferably arranged on the.
ordinary ribbon-loom with a double race-board for weaving hose-ware with upper
and lower warp, and consist in a device for the lowering and raising of the slay
or reed. This device is represented in drawing sheet two, here annexed, in
which:
Fig. 5 shows a side-view and
Fig. 6 a front view of part of a ribbon-loom provided with the arrangement for
lowering and raising the reed or slay.
In order to have the said device more distinctly shown, the other parts of the
loom, which are of old and known construction and which have nothing to do with
this Specification, are not illustrated on the drawing.
A is the frame of the loom, B the main driving shaft. C is the one of the.
swords of the batten or lathe, and D in the lathe in which are mounted the splits or
reeds V. A rod E is connected to the batten's sword C and to another hanging
bar F into which the rod E is entering in a slit in order to communicate its motion
to F in known manner.
The lower end of hanging bar F is holding a string G or other suitable means,
passing over a roller H, going from there over another roller J and down to a
lever K of the known ordinary regulator. As this lever will be moved up and
down by the oscillations of bar F it actuates the regulator in the known manner by
intermediate pawl and ratchet wheel and wheel gearing N, and puts the cross
shaft into slow rotation; on this cross-shatt L an excentric M is made to push
down a one-armed lever O situated below it. The one end of this lever is pivotted
at W on the framing, the other end is connected by means of a string P to the end
of a lever Qfixed by a key on a shaft R, articulated in the upper part of the
frame A. The said lever causing the shaft R and the levers S fixed to it in suitable
places, to oscillate. To the free ends of levers S are suspended by strings T the
frames U containing the reeds V.
From this connection between the regulator and the reeds it will be easily
understood, that and in what manner the reeds can be lowered and raised gradually
by suitably shaping the excentric M, which regulates the variations in the increase
and decrease of width of the web, as intended.
Supposing now, the narrow part A of the neck-tie, sheet one of the drawing, is

page_text: being just made; then the reed V stands to its highest and remains in this position,
so that the narrowest part of the reed is guiding all the warps, and after the work
is proceeded as far as point 62, then the excentric M of the loom begins to act upon
the lever O by its rotation and by the intermediate devices it causes the lever S to
move downward gradually by the weight of the slay-frame U; so the latter will
gradually sink and the warps are spreading out; a gradual increase in the width of
part B from 2 to 3 of the web will be the consequence, until at 63 the lowest
position of the reed, the greatest spread of the warp and so the greatest width of
the ribbon or hollow neck-tie-web is obtained.
In this position the reed remains steady, the excentric M will remain inactive in 1
respect to the levers O, Q, S, as long, as a length for making two neck-ties, in the
shape of the wide part B2 B3, is being made. Then, when arriving at b, by the
effect of excentric M the reed will begin to be raised gradually and the warp
threads will be drawn together closer and closer, the part B being so produced
gradually decreasing in width up to point of the neck-tie, the narrowest part,
corresponding to the closest distance of the warp-threads and to the highest place
of the reed V with frames U; then the narrow part A may be woven as before
described, and so on.
The reed V could be actuated just as well by hand as by the mechanism
indicated, or by similar arrangements.
It needs hardly to be observed that the parts B2 B3 are always woven in double
lengths, that is to say, so that in this part the web can be cut in two at CC¹ and
gives always sufficient length for two neckties. It is further to be observed that
the parts B2 B3 being larger in width are well suited for decorative designs to be
woven in the front side of the necktie, which may also continue on the narrow
parts A and in the parts BB' decreasing in width, as is shown in Fig. 1 in a part B
of the necktie. This is done by the ordinary means for doing such work.
In this way a length of web may be made containing a number of neck-tie
lengths, each having a narrow part like A Fig. 1, two parts increasing in width B
and B and two lengths of wide parts B2 and B³, and all the neckties of this long
web hanging together at the wide part places C, C', Fig. 1, with the same number
of warp threads as is contained in the narrow parts A; in said places C C¹ the web
may be cut to separate the necktie lengths. The ornamental designs woven in the
necktie may be on both sides of the hollow or doubled web, so that the necktie may
be worn on both sides indifferently, or only one side may have ornamental designs
woven in it.
The warp threads are shown at the broken off part of the narrow part of Fig. 1,
A, in a certain number for the upper side, 1, 2, 3, . ; in the increasing in width
part B the same number of warp threads 1, 2, 3 is indicated in dotted lines,
showing the successive and gradual increase in width between the warp threads
and at the widest part B2 the same number of warp threads 1, 2, 3 .
indicated in the drawing Fig. 1, showing the widest spreading of the warp
threads.
is again
Also an approximately represented fancy design is shown in Fig. 1 woven in the
narrowest part A, in the part B gradually increasing in width, where it shows a
gradual increase in the width of the ornaments repeated, and in a part of the widest
part B, indicating the breadth of the ornaments and their intermediate distances
at their greatest spread.
The doubled character or hose-like, hollow nature of this web has the advantage
of allowing a comparatively much lighter material to be used and to produce a
good strong fabric, having the appearance of a rich and substantial stuff."
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is:
1. A textile fabric of doubled, hollow and hose-like make with alternate wide
and narrow parts woven in it in gradually increasing and decreasing and intermediate

page_text: continuous widths, each narrow part being gradually increasing to a wide part and
this again gradually decreasing to a narrow part, and in such proportions of length,
that the narrow parts may be used as a necktie or cravat part surrounding the neck,
the wide parts forming the show ends of the necktie, cravat or scarf, the whole
fabric being woven so, that each wide part is sufficient in length for two wide part-
ends of the necktie or scarf; ornamental designs being woven in the show-side or
face side or in both sides of the hollow hose-like fabric, the number of warp threads
used in the weaving of the fabric remaining the same for the whole length of the
web and being laid closer in the narrow part, and further apart from each other
in the wider part.
Dated this 11th day of February 1896.
FRIEDRICH OBERSTEBRINK,
Per Karl J. Mayer,
Agent.