IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY FOR EMBROIDERING OR ORNA- MENTING FABRIOS
Year: 1868

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to James Francis Wanner, of Charles Street, Mid-
dlesex Hospital, in the County of Middlesex, Embroiderer, for the
Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY FOR EMBROIDERING OR ORNA-
MENTING FABRIOS."-A communication from abroad by Joseph Hugand,
of Rue St. Sebastien, Paris, in the Empire of France.
Sealed the 19th March 1869, and dated the 24th September 1868.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said James Francis Wanner
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition,
on the 25th September 1868.
I, JAMES FRANCIS WANNER, of Charles Street, Middlesex Hospital, in
the County of Middlesex, Embroiderer, do hereby declare the nature of
the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY FOR EMBROIDERING OR
ORNAMENTING FABRICS," to be as follows: -
This Invention of improvements in embroidering machinery relates
chiefly to a novel arrangement of mechanism whereby two or more
embroidery threads of different colors or thickness may be brought
automatically into operation in succession, or at the will of the operator,
[Price 8d 1

page_text: Two or more crochet instruments may also be operated simultaneously
so as to work in two or more threads in separate lines or rows.
Another improvement consists in a novel arrangement of mechanism
for distributing over the face of fabrics two or more ornamental threads
to be worked in or attached to the fabric by the crochet instruments
of either of the above arrangements of mechanism.
The next improvement relates to a means whereby articles of great
bulk may be carried upon the table of the machine and turned round or
manipulated with great facility under the working needles or instru-
ments as the intricacy of the design may require. Upon the bed plate
of the machine is a hollow cast-iron standard and bracket arm carrying
at its end the usual guide box of sewing machines. The table for
carrying and holding the work to be operated upon consists of a circular
trough or plate mounted horizontally on pillars affixed to the bed plate
of the machine, but so that it may rotate horizontally on its supports.
Concentric within this is a small disc or throat plate held and adjusted
centrally by set screws set radially. This disc is held in a slightly
higher plane above the segment ring, and enters a circular hole made
in the circular trough or plate of the table proper, the disc serving as
a central boss, around which the circular trough may be turned sup-
ported by the segment ring. This table is formed with this trough for
-carrying the bulk of the fabric_under_operation. Underneath this disc
or throat plate, but excentric to the vertical embroidering instrument,
is a hollow vertical spindle carried in bearings attached to the pillars
of the table. This hollow spindle has formed upon it a circular plate
or disc furnished with stud axles and tension spring guides for two or
more bobbins, the threads from which are led to holes formed through
the extreme end of the spindle immediately under the throat plate, by
which means the threads can be lapped upon the crochet instrument
(on its entry into the hollow spindle in its descent) in succession
according to the amount of rotation imparted to the spindle by any
suitable arrangement of gearing from the main shaft of the machine.
A flat band or ribbon may be led into the machine from below the table
so as to receive ornamentation and be united to the fabric by the line
of stitches.
The embroidery instrument is an ordinary crochet needle or hook
attached to an adjustable holder, which is carried in a vertical sliding
bar fitted in V guides in the front part of the bracket arm, and works up

page_text: and down through a hole in the bed plate like the needle of an ordinary
sewing machine. An annular presser is provided (carried by a bracket
arm from a second vertical slide) for holding the fabric upon the table
of the machine while under operation, and the work is fed by means of
a horizontai feed bar attached by a fulcrum pin to a pendent levor
pivoted to a vertical slide bar from which the rise and fall of the feed
motion is obtained. A spring on the slide bears upon the tail of the
horizontal feed bar to give the requisite pressure upon the work, this
pressure being made adjustable by a set screw. This pendent lever has
a projection against which a similar projection on a fourth slide bar
bears; this slide bar on being operated imparts the requisite traverse
motion to the pendent lever. These several vertical slide bars are
mounted in V guides at the front of the bracket arm, and are operated
by rock levers actuated by cams on the main shaft, which is carried in
bearings in the upper part of the bracket arm of the machine.
vertical rocking levers or thread guides intended to lay ornamental
threads across the path of the embroidery at right angles to the fred
are mounted on a stud axle at the side of the guide box of the bracket
arm, and are operated from excentric cams carried by a stud axle on
the bracket arm of the machine; these excentric cams are geared (by
by a spur wheel and pinion of suitable diameter) with the main driving.
or cam shaft.
With this arrangement I am enabled to make a variety
of ornamental and "pearl point" work."
Two
In some descriptions of embroidery I employ in addition apparatus
to hold the additional upper thread at the extremity of each traverse of
either or both of the thread guides until secured to the fabric by the
knitting or crochet stitch. This apparatus consists of a cross head pro-
vided with two pins, and carried by a vertical rod attached to the
vertical slide carrying the crochet hook. In place of the bobbin carriage
and spindle I propose to employ two or more vertical thread guides
mounted below the table of the machine on universal joints, and operated
by cam grooves receiving rotatory motion by suitable bevil and spur gear
from the main shaft The lower ends of these levers have projections,
which by entering grooves appropriated to them cause their upper ends to
describe a circle around either one, two, or more crochet hooks or needles,
as may be desired. By means of a sliding stop operated by a pedal I"
am enabled to retain one or other of the thread guides out of action, and
thus a thick thread may be laid upon the fabric and united thereto

page_text: by one or more lines of crochet knitted stitches; I can also so arrange
their respective cam grooves as to cause the path described by their
upper ends to cross each other and produce a cross or interlacing stitch
or ornamentation.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said James Francis Wanner in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 23rd March 1869.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JAMES
FRANCIS WANNER, of Charles Street, Middlesex Hospital, in the County
of Middlesex, Embroiderer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Twenty-fourth day of September, in the
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-eight, in the
thirty-second year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors,
give and grant unto me, the said James Francis Wanner, Her special
licence that I, the said James Francis Wanner, my executors, adminis-
trators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said James Francis Wanner,
my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time-agree-
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during
the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use,
exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and
Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for
"IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY FOR EMBROIDERING OR ORNAMENTING FABRICS,"
being a communication to me from abroad by Joseph Hugand, of Rue
St. Sebastien, Paris, in the Empire of France, upon the condition
(amongst others) that I, the said James Francis Wanner, my exe-
cutors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or
their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and
ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the
same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great
Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately
after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said James Francis Wanner, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same

page_text: 18 to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement, reference being had to the Drawings here-
unto annexed, and to the letters and figures marked thereon (that is
to say):
This Invention relates to machinery for sewing, embroidering,
braiding, and ornamenting various kinds of dresses, and is applicable
to the manufacture of garments of every kind.
This braiding and embroidering operation can be executed upon skin,
cloth, velvet, silk, woollen and other fabrics; it is applicable also to the
braiding or ornamenting of blouses, curtains, umbrellas, gloves, and
other articles, and the point or stitch is a close imitation of the work
which is usually applied by hand on lace. The braiding machines in use
up to the present time in which a single chain stitch is employed for
executing a braiding in relief with one or two threads are not specially
adapted to this kind of work, and do not possess the requisite mechanism
for carrying and manipulating the fabrics upon which the work is to be
executed, and can therefore only turn out a very small piece of work.
The principal features of the improved machine which forms the
subject of the present Invention are as follows:-
First. There is a rotating bobbin holder (capable of containing an
indefinite number of bobbins) having in the centre a hollow tube or
spindle for receiving the threads, and geared in relation to the crotchet
hook or needle in such a manner that the latter is encircled by the
thread which passes before it during the movement of the bobbin holder ;
its rotatory speed is essentially variable, and can take any proportion
desired relative to the movement of the crotchet by the employment of a
train of change wheels.
Secondly. A system of vertical rock levers operated by cams employed
in distributing the threads which are to be applied in the form of a
chain stitch to the fabric.
Thirdly. The employment of several crotchet hooks together with one,
two, or more vertical thread guides and a fixed bobbin holder.
Fourthly. The combination with the preceding mechanism of vertical
rocking thread guides for distributing thread or wool so as to form the
embroidery.
Fifthly. An arrangement of mechanism for connecting and discon-
necting the vertical thread guides with the actuating mechanism.

page_text: Sixthly. A cam of special form for operating the thread guides, which
form a crossed point or stitch.
Seventhly. A large rotating table, on which may be placed objects of
considerable bulk, which may be manoeuvred with facility and so as to
admit of the most complicated designs being followed.
Eighthly. The substitution of hand power for pedal power by the
treadle.
These new and special features enable this improved machine to
execute embroidery and braiding of the most varied patterus, viz¹, a
single-thread chain stitch, or one with 2, 3, 4, or more threads at will,
having a chain stitch above with alternate points or stitches of different
color beneath, thus forming a cord of 2, 3, or 4 threads. This cord is
the kind of braiding which may be produced on linen in imitation of lace
work. A ribbon may be used in the machine to receive the orna-
mentation. A "pearled point" may be formed from a chain stitch of
two thread's having two other threads applied on the face of the fabric,
and fixed there by one of the points of the chain stitch. Various other
kinds of braiding and embroidery are obtained by the use of the vertical
thread guides and other apparatus, and, two or three (or a still larger
_ number of) needles may be employed simultaneously for producing any
of the above-mentioned descriptions of embroidery. The several lines of
chain stitches may be placed near the edge and very close together,
forming with the threads and silk laid on the face of the fabric a kind
of fringe. Parallel lines of stitches alternating in color and below a
crossed point or stitch may be obtained.
In the accompanying Drawings Fig. 1 shews a front view of the
head of the machine; Fig. 2 is an elevation (one of the columns for
supporting the table being left out); Fig. 3 is a back view; Fig. 4 is
a plan of the machine; Fig. 5 is the plan of the rotating bobbin holder;
Fig. 6 shews the vertical rock levers used for working several needles;
Fig. 7 is a plan of the same; Fig. 8 is a sectional plan, shewing the cam
and pedal frame for operating the two vertical levers
or forks;
Figures 9, 10, and 11 are detached views of the upper part of the
machine with the mechanism annexed for producing embroidery ;
Figures 12 and 13 are front and side views of a large fork or vertical
lever and a set of three needles; Figures 14 to 20 are detached views of
a modification of the vertical lever or fork and its cam used in making
the crossed point; Figures 21 to 24 are diagrams illustrating the move-

page_text: ments of the levers at every fourth part of the revolution of the cam;
Figures 25 to 35 illustrate the various styles of braiding and embroidery
which may be produced by this improved machine. In these different
Figures the same letters indicate the same parts.
In Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, A, A, A, represent the framework or
foundation plate and bracket arm of the machine on which rise the
columns B, B, which support the arc C; D is the crank handle, which
sets in motion the driving wheels E, F, G, and the shaft H, which
carries the cams K, L, M, N, Figures 3 and 4, on which bear rollers
fixed at the extremity of the levers k, l, m, n. These levers are jointed
on the shaft P, P. and bear at their other extremity on the vertical
slides,, m³, n, which move.in guides in the face plate of the
machine. These levers are operated by the cams K, L, M, N, to push
down the vertical slides, which are caused to rise by the aid of the
springs k, l, m³, n², attached to the axle R. The tension of these springs
is adjusted by the screws Q, Fig. 2, and the extremities of these springs
enter openings k³, 13, m³, ns, made in the slides, and thus cause them to
move upward in a vertical direction.
o, p, q, are adjusting screws
carried at the ends of the levers. The shape of the cams keyed on the
shaft H determines the movement of the vertical slides, on which are
mounted the crochet hook, presser, and feeding apparatus. The slide
carries the crochet holder and crochet hook. The slide ³, by means of
a bracket, carries the eyelet or tubular presser through which the
needle passes and presses down the fabric to be sewn at the moment the
needle pierces it. The eyelet presser, by a second movement, again
presses the fabric, and does not again rise until the crochet nook has
brought up the thread. The movement of the slide m¹ is combined with
that of the slide n¹ in such a manner as to set in operation the feed
claw S of the feed lever, which produces the movement of the material.
The pendent lever T, Fig. 1, is pivotted upon the slide n', and carries at
its lower end the lever U, to which the feed claw is attached by a set
screw. When the slide n¹ has reached the end of its upward movement
the feed claw is applied to the work at that moment, and the slide m¹
descends, and by means of the cam projection m' acting against the
piece t on the lever T the lever T carrying the feed claw is forced back,
and the spring V giving way the claw S draws forward the fabric to be
sewn or embroidered a little distance toward the left. The two slides m¹
and n¹ reascend, advancing quicker than n¹, and the spring V brings

page_text: back the feed claw S to its original position. The length of the stitch
can be regulated by the screw X, and when that screw is slackened the
lever T will cause the feed claw to advance further towards the needle,
and as the maximum of separation produced by the relative movement of
the two pieces m' and T is always the same, it will result from it that the
motion apart will be greater and increase the length of the stitch. On
the other hand to shorten the stitch the screw is to be tightened, and the
action of the parts will be vice versa, and will reduce the length of the
stitch. In order to raise the feed claw S from the work the small latch t¹
is to be brought down, which will force back the tail of the piece U,
which will move on the fulcrum pin u. The disc I or circular plate, on
which the stitch or point is made, is fixed by screws to the circular
piece J, and the latter is encircled by the screws c, c, set radially in the
ring C, C; and on this plate J and ring C is supported the large
rotating table or trough J¹ for containing and carrying the work. This
moveable plate constitutes a very essential part of the system. Motion
is communicated from the shaft H to the shaft 1 by the two small spur
wheels 2 and 3, and by bevil gearing through the vertical and horizontal
shafts 4 and 6 to the vertical shaft 5, on which is mounted the bobbin
holder in a cross bearing 7 enclosed in a box of cast iron 7', attached by
means of two arms 8, 8, to the columns B, B, as seen in Fig. 1; this box
opens by a hinged door 9, which permits the withdrawal of the bearing
and plate z in order to arrange the threads more commodiously. The
rotating bobbin holder is capable of receiving any number of bobbins 10,
11, and they are mounted upon stud pins or axles. Other stud axles 12, 13,
receive the tension si iral springs, through the eye guides or buckle 12', 13¹
of which pass the threads in their passage to openings 10¹ and 11' made
in the upper end of a central tube Z. Two other stud pins 14, 15,
Fig. 5, carry springs, which bear on the neck of the bobbins 10 and 11,
and serve to regulate the tension of the threads. When making the
chain stitch with a single thread the movement of the bobbin' holder z is
regulated to make a revolution each time the needle pierces the fabric,
the driving wheels 2 and 3 being for that purpose of the same diameter.
The rotating plate z, Fig. 1, is excentric in its relation to the needle, and
presents the threads to the crochet hook on the iune: margin at the right
of the central tube Z. Before commencing to sew the position of the
rotating plate z or bobbin holder is to be regulated in such a manner.
that when the needle or hook has descended the thread may pass before
it and encircle it, and the crochet hook ascends with the thread; at this

page_text: moment the feed claw 8 takes hold of the fabric and draws it the length
of a stitch or point. By a repetition of these movements the stitch
shewn at Fig. 25 is obtained with a single thread. When employing
two threads the bobbins are placed on the bobbin holder in face of each
other (see Fiz. 5), and the movement is modified in such a manner that
the bobbin holder makes a half turn with every descent of the needle.
This effect is produced by making the driving wheel 3 double the size of
the wheel 2, so that when a point or stitch is formed (as we have
explained) for a single thread the plate z makes a half turn and presents
the second thread, which is taken up by the crochet hook and passes to
the surface, and remains there whilst the crochet hook again descends
and takes up the first thread, which another half turn of the plate has
again presented. If the two threads are of different colors a chain stitch
with alternate points will be formed on the upper side of the work, and
below a cord of two threads, as shown at Fig. 26 With three thread<
three bobbins would be required, and one-third of a revolution given to
the mechanism by changing the wheels 2 and 3, Figures 1 and 2, and so
on for any given number, each thread being fed through a separate
opening in the central tube, as in the above case
would be always that shewn at Fig. 26 (a chain
The point obtained
stitch) with alternate
points, and below a twisted cord of different colors. If a flat band or
ribbon be led up from the bobbin b' and caused to come out from the
disc I, as shewn by dotted lines in Fig. 1, it will be attached to the
work, as shewn at Fig. 27.
In order to lay embroidery threads over the path of the needle or
crotchet hook I employ the following arrangement of mechanism :-
A shaft c¹, Figures 2 and 4, receives rotatory motion through the gear
wheels a, b, and carries at its extremity two disc-shaped cams d, e,
which communicate by two horizontal rods i andj a rocking motion to
the vertical levers or spindles ƒ and g pivotted at h to the face plate
of the machine. The horizontal rods i and j are mounted in bearings
in the bracket arm A, and are held up to the cams d and e by two
spiral springs 8, 8. A cam plate on the bracket head serves as a
guide to the vertical levers f and g, and raises their ends in order to
pass behind the needle. The bobbins which supply thread to these
levers are carried on the bracket arm of the machine at y, y. The
thread or silk is led into the hollow feet of the spindle at z, z, and out
at their lower ends, which distribute them around and across the path of
1

page_text: the chain stitch (made in either of the methods described), and thus
produces a pearl enclosed in a circle, as shewn at Fig. 28. One or more
rows of chain stitches may be obtained by the employment of one or
several needles held in a clamp and combined with a system of vertical
thread guides in place of the rotating table bobbin holder z, Figures 1
and 2. This arrangement is represented in Figures 6, 7, and ε, which
show the lower part of the machine in elevation and two plans, the one
being a plan of the fixed plate levers, &c., and the other a plan of the
parts below with the reversing apparatus, cam, &c. At the extremity
of the shaft 6, Fig. 8, is mounted a cam 20. 21 is a moveable plate
fitted to move in guides 22, and carries adjustable bearings 24. Forks
or vertical levers 25 and 26 are pivotted by an universal joint at 28.
On the plate 21 are also mounted the two bobbins 25 and 26', together
with their tension springs. 23 is a spring for securing the plate 21
in place, and 28¹ are springs for compelling the vertical levers or
spindles. 25, 26, to follow the motion of the cam. A projection or
tooth 26 is rivetted on the lower end of the lever 26; this tooth is
caused to enter one of the grooves of the cam 20%; the lever thus
directed envelopes the crotchet hook-with- the thread at the moment it
re-ascends. Several needles may be operated and mounted in the
machine, as is shewn at the Figures-12-and-13, which are side and
front views of three fixed needles and a triple fork having a single
movement exactly similar to that which we have described. The point
or stitch produced by this device is shewn at Fig. 29. In order to
operate with either of the vertical levers or forks alternately and at
pleasure a reversing apparatus is provided, as seen best at Fig. 8. Two
horizontal slides 30, 30, mounted in bearings 31 on the plate A, and
carrying lugs 29, are caused to act upon the lower end of the vertical
thread guides 25, 26, and throw them out of gear with the excentric
cam by means of the rocking lever 34. This lever 34 is mounted on a
fulcrum pin 33, and is connected to the slides 30, 30, by pins and slots.
The outer end of the lever enters a mortice or opening in the tumbler 32
pivotted to the frame of the machine. The tumbler 32 carries a weight
at its upper extremity and is furnished with a pulley, round which cords
pass and have their ends attached to two pedals. By operating the
pedal corresponding with the cord 35 the apparatus will set in motion
the lever 26, whilst the lever 25 remains inactive, being kept out of
gear by the lug 29. In order to change from one thread' guide to the
other it is necessary to choose the moment in which the needle is
.
"

page_text: about to descend to operate the pedal so as to throw over the tumbler 32
to the reverse position, where it will rest against the stop 32'. This
movement reverses the position of the rock lever 34 by moving the two
slides 30 in reverse directions. One lug 29 leaves the lever 25, which
being drawn by the spring 28 engages its tooth in the grooved edge of
the cam, whilst the lower part of the other lever is removed from its
position by the other lug. By this means either of the threads guided
by these levers may be employed to feed the crochet hooks, and being of
different colors the machine will make (at pleasure) a chain stitch point
of either of these colors as shewn at Fig. 31.
Figures 9, 10, and 11 show the apparatus employed to apply thread,
wool, or silk in the manner shewn at Figures 32, 33, and 34, intended
to form embroidery on the face of the fabric. 40 is a small clamp
attached to the slide carrying the rod 41, to which is fixed a cross
head 42 furnished with two pendent pins 43 which descend nearly to
the plate. Only one of the vertical levers or thread guides for g is
to be employed to lay the thread upon the fabric by making a movement
at each stitch, and as the needle descends the pins 43 at that time rest
on the fabric and the lever passes before them and comes into the
position shewn in Fig. 11. The thread or cord which this lever con-
ducts (being retained on the fabric by the stitches already made)
envelopes by this movement the pins 43, 43, which by their distance
apart (see Fig. 9) determine the length of the cord which each stitch
fixes upon the fabric. A species of embroidery is thus obtained,
applied on the fabric and fastened there by a line of chain stitches. Two
or three lines of chain stitches may with equal facility be employed,
see Figures 32, 33, and 34.
The Figures 14 to ?4 shew several views of a modification of the
vertical thread guide suitable for making the crossed point represented
at Fig. 35. These two levers 51 and 52 are mounted on the plate 21.
50 is a cam having two grooves, each of which actuates the lower end
of a lever by means of a pin or bowle. The form of the grooves of the
cam compels the two levers or forks to encircle one after the other each
of the two needles employed.
The Figures 21, 22, 23, and 24 shewn in diagram on every fourth part
of a turn made by the cam and the relative position of the needles,
indicated by the black points, and also that of the two forks or levers.
one of which is designated by a cross and the other by a small circle

page_text: The work obtained by the aid of this arrangement is a double range of
alternate points or stitches corresponding to the two needles and below
a crossed point, see Fig. 35. The large moveable plate or trough (seen
bost at Fig. 2) for carrying the fabrics a workwoman can easily move,
whilst it allows of tracing on the embroidery the most complicated
designs.
Having now described the Invention of "Improvements in Machinery
for Embroidering or Ornamenting Fabrics," as communicated to me by iny
foreign correspondent, and explained the manner of carrying the same into
effect, I claim as the Invention secured to me by Letters Patent as afore-
said, the construction and arrangement of parts herein set forth whereby
one, two, or more embroidery threads of different colors or thicknesses
may be brought automatically into operation at the will of the operator
so as to produce any desired kind of embroidery or ornamentation by
threads or yarns on various fabrics or inaterials.
I also claim the use and application to the class of machinery herein
set forth of a rotating trough or table to hold the garment, fabric, or
material that is being operated upon by the sewing, embroidering, or
ornamenting instruments.
In witness whereof, I, the said James-Francis. Wanner, have here-
unto set my hand and seal, the 16th day of March, in the year
Witness,
JOSEPH R. ROGERS,
66, Chancery Lane.
JAMES FRANCIS WANNER. (L.S.)