IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING WITH WAXED AND DRY THREADS AND IN APPARATUS THEREFOR, AND IN BEARINGS, AND DEVICES, AND ATTACHMENTS FOR SEWING AND OTHER MACHINES
Year: 1879

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Simon Willard Ward well, jr., of Providence, in the County
of Providence, State of Rhode Island, and United States of North America,
for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING WITH WAXED AND DRY
THREADS AND IN APPARATUS THEREFOR, AND IN BEARINGS, AND DEVICES, AND
ATTACHMENTS FOR SEWING AND OTHER MACHINES."
Sealed the 7th October 1879, and dated the 11th August 1879.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION filed by the said Simon Willard Wardwell at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 11th August 1879.
SIMON WILLARD WARDWELL, jr., of Providence, in the County of Providence,
State of Rhode Island, and United States of North America. IMPROVEMENTS IN
SEWING WITH WAXED AND DRY THREADS AND IN APPARATUS THEREFORE, AND IN
BEARINGS, AND DEVICES, AND ATTACHMENTS FOR SEWING AND OTHER MACHINES."
The first part of this Invention relates to sewing with two waxed threads, that
is, threads thoroughly saturated with shoemakers' wax which remains upon that
part of the thread, comprising stitches locked at some point between the faces of
the material. The second part of the Invention relates to the devices and apparatus
for forming the stitches in the material without removing the wax from the threads
or gumming up the working parts. The third part of the Invention relates to the
shuttle and bobbin.
The fourth part of the Invention relates to the various devices for operating the
presser-foot, feeding, governing, and waxing the thread, moving the fabric and
operating the stitch forming appliances.
The fifth part of the Invention relates to devices for accurately ajusting the
shafts and affording frictionless bearings, therefor applicable to other machines.
The sixth part of the Invention relates to a device for winding the bobbins. In
the accompanying Drawings,-
Figure 1 is a sectional elevation of a machine for sewing with two waxed
threads forming lock stitches.
Figure 2 is a sectional plan; Figure 2a, a partial longitudinal section showing the
devices within the bed or case; Figures 1º, 2º, and 3° are views showing devices for
adjusting the shaft and affording frictionless bearings therefor; Figure 3 is a partial
transverse sectional elevation on the plane of the needle looking from the front of
Di 1 931

page_text: the machine; Figure 4 is a transverse elevation on the plane of the needle looking
from the rear, showing the parts above the work-plate; Figure 4º, a section of the
devices carried by the overhanging arm; Figure 5a, a detached section of the presser-
bar locking devices; Figure 6a, an end view of the shuttle carrier and adjacent
appliances; Figure 5, a detached view showing the face of the front cain and parts
adjacent thereto; Figure 6, a detached view showing the crank wheel and the end
of the connecting arm; Figures 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, detached views illustrating the
formation of the stitch and stitch forming mechanism; Figure 12, a section of the
shuttle or bobbin case; Figure 13, a section of the bobbin; Figure 14, a section
illustrating the stitch; Figures 15, 16, 17, views illustrating parts of the stitch
forming mechanism; Figures 18, 19, 20, detached views showing devices for
operating the stitch forming nechanism; Figures 21, 22, 23, 24, views illustrating
the bobbin winding devices and wax pot; and Figures 1ª, 2ª, 3, 4ª, 5ª, views
illustrating devices for facilitating the manufacture of round reins.
The machine is comprised in two main divisions, the first including devices
for carrying the needle thread through and looping it beneath the fabric, and
passing the shuttle through the loop without contact therewith, which devices may
be operated by various mechanisms, and the second including the appliances which
impart the requisite movements to the first named devices, feed the material sewed,
and regulate the supply of thread. Before describing the construction of the
mechanism from which the stitch forming devices derive their movements, and by
which such movements are timed and regulated, reference will be made to those
parts which are most immediately connected with the operations upon the threads
and the material and their movements in the formation of the stitches.
These parts are an eye pointed needle a, carrying a waxed thread a, a shuttle B
Fig. 2 having a reciprocating motion at right angles to and across the path of the
needle, a looping device consisting of a looper finger or blade c, projecting from a
shoulders of a carrying ring or cylinder b and an awl d, Fig. 3, which may also
act as a feed, a needle thread feeder e, which vibrates above the end of the presser
foot across the path of the needle thread, a griping device or clamp D, Fig. 4a,
a take up E', and a needle gauge i, Fig. 2, which is shown as carried by the
cylinder b.
Without at this point referring minutely to the construction of these devices
it will suffice to state that the gauge i reciprocates longitudinally in a groove
in the cylinder b, that the latter has a reciprocating rotary and a recipro-
cating longitudinal movement, that the shuttle carries a bobbin of thoroughly
waxed thread and is constantly in connection with a reciprocating driving rod g
(Fig. 2a) through the medium of a vibrating segment h (Fig. 8), having edge
flanges n and adapted to a T shaped groove m in a projection m' in the shuttle
case j, Fig. 12. The segment is cut away to form a central recess y, but only to such
an extent as will ensure a portion of the segment being always in the groove m.
At the commencement of the formation of the stitch the parts are in a position
shown in Figs. 3 and 15, the length of thread between the eye of the needle
and upper side of the fabric passing around the feeder e, being sufficient to supply
the needle as it descends to the position shown in Fig. 7, with the thread taut at
both sides of the needle below the fabric. The sufficient supply of thread is of the
utmost importance, for waxed thread doubled through the eye of a needle cannot
be drawn through the eye while the needle is in the material, an insufficient supply
therefore would cause the thread to break. The needle being elevated the shuttle
is in the cylinder b, as shown in Fig. 1, and the feeder e in the position shown in
Fig. 3 (dotted lines) holding the thread. As the needle descends the shuttle is
carried forward to the position shown in Fig. 8, the feeder e turns to the position
shown in Fig. 4, and the thread slips off and is carried down with the needle. The
first movement of the cylinder b is in the direction of the arrow, Fig. 7, until the
gauge which has been thrust out strikes the needle and the finger c is opposite
the line between the needle and the thread, Figs. 1 and 16.
The relative position of the gauge i and finger c is such that when the needle

page_text: bears on the gauge i as an abutment the looper finger c on the moving forward
is brought with its edge exactly between the side of the needle and the thread,
the latter having sufficient elasticity to permit the entrance of the thin edge
of the looper, or the needle having a slide side recess at ye, Fig. 4, to receive
this edge. Thus if the needle is sprung to one side towards the awl from any
cause, the gauge invariably brings it to a position, which, whatever it may be, is
always such that the looper will certainly pass between the needle and the thread.
The importance of the positive relation between these parts, above named, will
be seen from the fact before set forth that no deficiency in the loop can be made up
by drawing the thread up through the needle while the latter is in the material, and
the further fact that the ascent of the needle cannot (as in dry thread machines) be
relied upon to form a loop at the side for the entrance of the looper, as a thoroughly
waxed thread will adhere more firmly to the polished face of the needle than to the
leather or fabric. It would therefore, if not caught below, slip through the fabric
with the needle when the latter ascends without forming a loop. Simultaneously
with the entrance of the looper between the thread and needle the latter begins
its ascend through that double portion formerly in the needle's eye looped
upon the looper (Fig. 17) which still retains the thread absolutely taut, so
that there is no change in the quantity of thread below the fabric, the needle in
ascending sliding upon the tightly drawn thread without any movement of the
latter.
As there is no upward movement of the needle to form a loop, and the
looper takes the loop when the needle is at its lowest point, there is no slacking or
variation of the thread which is held tightly so that the stitches are close taut and
even. The looper continues to retain the loop until the needle eye is above the
thickest fabric the machine is capable of sewing and then rotates in the direction
of the arrow, Figs. 9, 10, and 11, and carries and spreads the loop around the
neck 8 of the cylinder. The shuttle then passes inward carrying the thread
(which extends to the fabric) through the distended loop. The cylinder now
moves inward and drops the loop, the clamp D holds the thread immovable at
that point; the take up E' moving back draws the portion of thread below the
clamp upward in an almost straight course through the eye of the needle until the
shuttle thread is drawn in a loop into the body of the fabric, and there locked
with the needle thread, as shown in Fig. 14. As the loop after being first caught
by the blade is carried around with the latter towards the side of the segment h
the latter is turned to the position shown in Fig. 9, so that the recess y coincides
with the path of the portion of thread forming the inner side of the loop which
enters therein contact with the shuttle or with the segment.
As the thread crosses the face of the shuttle by the rotation of the looper a con.
tinued movement of the segment in the direction of its arrow, Fig. 9, maintains the
recess and thread coincident Fig. 10 until the segment is in the position shown in
Fig. 11, when the recess is open for the thread to pass wholly on the shoulder 8 and
out of the path of the shuttle, which then moves inward through the distended
loop. While the thread is by these means distended upon the neck S and carried
between the segment and the shuttle the said segment is at no time disconnected
from the said shuttle, nor is there any contact of the thread with the shuttle case or
segment, a matter of vital importance, as otherwise the parts would soon be clogged
up with wax, and so rendered inoperative. Further, any contact of the thread
with the parts named would result in the transfer of the lubricating oil to the
thread, dissolving and diluting the wax and destroying its adhesive and stiffening
qualities. After the shuttle thread has been drawn into the fabric, the shuttle
being in the cylinder b, Fig. 1, the awl d, Fig. 3, rises, penetrating the fabric,
travels, carrying the latter until the awl is in a line with the path of the
needle, and then descends and moves back to its first position, when another
stitch is formed in the same manner as the first, and so on. It will be seen
that by means of the above described operations two thoroughly waxed threads
are formed into locked stitches with the lock between the faces of the fabric.
Many efforts have heretofore been made to attain this result but without

page_text: success. Where the threads has been waxed in the machine the subsequent mani-
pulation, the contact with the oiled faces, or other causes, has led to the removal
or dissolving of the wax, so that the threads by the time that they are locked have
but little if any wax upon them. Having thus described the operations by which
a stitch is formed it will be apparent that different means may be employed for
imparting the requisite movements to the various devices specified, and in their
. relative order; but those will now be described which in construction, arrange-
ment, and operation, have in practice been found operative in effecting the desired
. result.
-
The frame of the machine consists of a plate or case A and an overhanging
arm B10 secured detachably to the case by side bolts and carrying at the outer end
a head F. There are two horizontal shafts C, D, the former turning in bearings
below the base plate and carrying an eccentric C₁₁ and cam cylinder C21, and the
latter in bearings of the arm and carrying a crauk-wheel D¹ and cam wheel D². A
slotted connecting lever E, both sliding and vibrating upon a fulcrum pin a adapted
to a threaded opening in the arm B₁0, is recessed at the lower end to receive the
. eccentric C¹¹, and has at the other end a Ṭ headed crank-pin b¹ Fig. 6 adapted to
a flanged socket 610 in the crank wheel D', said socket being open at one side to
receive the said T headed crank pin. This permits the pin to slip from the socket
when the arm B10 is raised from the base (the stud pin a being previously removed),
thus facilitating the ready detaching of the, arm and its appliances. The cam
wheel D has a cam edge 3, and is grooved on both front and rear faces and in the
hub, the groove 1 in the latter operating directly the take up lever E¹, the short
lower arm of which (provided with a friction roller enters the said groove 1. A
grooved thread pulley G is adapted to curved bearings in the clamping jaws D5, D6,
the former stationary on the head F and the latter pivoted to an eccentric pin 2,
.which may be turned to regulate its throw, and having in its lower short arm a
recess to receive a pointed pin a" projecting from a sliding plate V, Figs. 4 and 4a,
.said pin carrying a friction roller a, against which operates the cam edge 3 of the
wheel D2, Fig. 5. The presser foot f, Fig. 4a, is carried by a sleeve G¹, through which
slides the needle bar G³, a stud 4 extending into the groove in the face of the cam
wheel D² from which the bar derives a positive vertical reciprocating motion.
The sleeve G¹ is depressed by a spring 16 bearing upon its upper end and at a
point above a shoulder 6 of the bead F; the sleeve is encircled by two griping
rings 7, and 8, and by a cam ring G³ (Figs. 4, 4ª, 5) provided with a handle 9 and
bearing with its inclined edge on and beneath a stud 10 of the sleeve G¹, so that
the latter and its foot may be lifted and depressed by turning the cam ring. A
stud 11, Fig. (4a), holds down the ring 7 at its forward side, and a spring d³, Fig. 4,
beneath throws up the other side, thus canting the ring so as to bite on the sleeve,
lock it in position against any upward movement with the foot firmly down upon
the work-plate A'. In like manner the ring 8 when canted and raised will bite on
the sleeve and carry the latter with it. The rings have beveled lugs 21, 22, Figs. 4,
5ª, between which extends a slide F¹ having shoulders 12, 13, so arranged that on
the inward movement of the slide the shoulder 12 shall first strike the lug 21,
levelling and loosening the lower ring to permit the upward movement of the sleeve
and presser-foot, when the inclined shoulder 13 passing beneath the lug 22 lifts the
ring 8 and with it the presser-foot. The slide F¹ has a stud 14 projecting into a
cam groove in the face of the cam wheel D², which so moves the slide that the foot
is lifted just prior to and during each feeding movement of the material, as before
described; the foot being at other times locked down upon the fabric, preventing
the latter from being displaced.
The foot can be elevated at any time however by turning the cam ring G³, which
bearing upon, levels both rings 7 and 8, so that the sleeve can slide through them
without resistance. A plate F serves as an abutment for the lugs 21, 22, and pre-
vents the rings from turning. A stud 17, Figs. 1 and 4, projecting from the rear of the
hub of the presser-foot carries a vibrating lever I, deriving its motion from a slotted
plate 12, Figs. 1, 4ª, 5, reciprocating laterally in the head by the action of a plate Is

page_text: sliding vertically and having an inclined groove g³, into which a stud (dotted lines,
Fig. 6) on the plate I projects. The plate I³ has a stud projecting into a cam
groove at the back of the wheel D%, which thus imparts a vertical reciprocating
movement to said plate. A shaft I carried by the lever I, Fig. 4º, and connected
to a coiled spring I', Fig. 4, supports the thread feeder e, and is provided at the
upper end with an arm 19, which enters a cam opening w¹ in a plate I³ secured to
the hub of the presser-foot, and so constructed that as the lever vibrates the arm
by its contact with the edges of the opening will turn the shaft and its feeder to
its proper position, heretofore described.
A groove 31, Figs. 1, 4, and 5, in the cam ring G³ receives a pin on the plate V
which is thus lowered when the ring is turned to raise the presser-foot, the pointed
end of the pin being thus brought into the lower end of the opening in the jaw Do,
which may then vibrate sufficiently to loosen the ring G and permit the thread
otherwise tightly clamped to be drawn freely to thread the needle. Grooved pulleys
76, 77, are arranged to conduct the thread from the wax pot P7 to the ring pulley G,
from which it passes to a grooved pulley 74 carried by the take up E¹ and turning
on an eccentric pin 75, by adjusting which the amount of thread taken up by
the vibration of the lever is regulated. The shaft CD carries besides the main
cam cylinder C2 and eccentric C", a forward cam wheel K, the latter having
face and peripheral cam grooves, Figs. 1, 2, and 3. On the stud 26 of a bracket L
beneath the base-plate vibrates a slotted two armed frame L', in one arm 90
of which slides the awl bar M, the latter deriving its vertical movement from
the face groove 91 of the wheel K which receives a stud 27 on the bar, and
the groove shown in dotted lines, Fig. 3, at the back of the wheel receives a stud
on the arm 29 of the frame L', vibrates the latter, imparting the forward or feed
motion after the awl is raised, a spring 35 retracting the frame.
The extent of the feed is regulated by an adjustable bar N having an inclined
face 36a against which bears the end of an adjusting screw N¹, the said bar carrying
a roller 36 which is struck by a wing 38 on the awl bar M as the latter rises. The
position of the roller 36 will determine the point at which the awl will enter the
material, the further the roller is from the needle path the longer is the stitch, the
limit of the forward movement of the awl during the operation of the machine
being invariable. To facilitate the adjustment of the awl to the exact line of the
path of the needle the stud on the arm 29 is eccentric to the pin extending from
the same into the arm and may be turned and secured by a nut.
To prevent the momentum of the material from carrying the awl past the exact
line of the path of the needle a stud N2 screws into the frame and serves as an
adjustable abutment against which the arm 90 of the frame L' strikes on moving
forward, a jam screw securing the stud after adjustment. A sliding driving rod P
(Figs. 1, 2, 18 and 20) operated by the main cam cylinder C reciprocates in a sleeve R,
carrying at its front end a cylindrical case R¹, within which operates the cylinder b.
One or more longitudinal slots, Fig. 6ª, in said cylinder b receive studs on the
inside of the case, so that the cylinder must rotate with but can slide in the case,
the sliding motion being imparted by the peripheral groove 3ª, (Figs. 1, 16,) of the
cam wheel K through the medium of a yoke S, fitted to an annular groove 30 of the
cylinder b, and carried by a slide S¹, a stud 39 from which enters the groove 3ª,
Figs. 1, 16, and 17.
The gauge i, Figs. 15 to 20, is a short bar sliding in a longitudinal groove in the
cylinder band provided with a diamond shaped lug 40, which as it is brought
alternately by the rocking of the cylinder b against the pointed ends 41, 42, of the
yoke S is carried with its slide back or forward. Near the rear end of the gauge is
a lug 43 which enters a short slot 44 in the case R³, and striking the ends of said
slot as the cylinder is carried in or out arrests the further movement of the gauge
with the cylinder. Thus as the looper c carries the loop, on the revolution of the
case in the direction of the arrow, Fig. 17, the front end of the lug 40 striking the
rear beveled face of the yoke end 41 is driven back with the gauge, and so continues
until the lug is above the opposite end 42 of the yoke, when the case with its looper

page_text: is drawn back, Fig. 15, the gauge remaining stationary but relatively to the looper
moving forward. On the reverse movement of the case in the direction of the
arrow, Fig. 15, the lug strikes the end 42 of the yoke forward of the centre and
the gauge is driven outward to the position shown in Fig. 16 so as to strike the
needle. The case R¹ and its sleeve R derive their rotary motion from the reciproca-
ting rod P, a stud 89 on which enters a slot 88, part straight part spiral, in the
sleeve R. The rod P has a slot 50, Figs. 18 and 20, to receive the head or block g¹ on
the end of the shuttle carrying bar or shaft g which passes through the end of said rod
and in the slot 50 also lies loosely a bar T, Figs. 18 and 20, a pin 51 from which
projects up through a slot 52 of the rod P and into a slot 53 of a stationary plate U
secured to the underside of the bed plate Fig. 1. The slots 51, 52, are a little out
of line laterally, and at the forward ends are curved in opposite directions so as to
present inclined or transverse shoulders t, t2, Figs. 19, 20.
When the rod P being in the position, Fig. 1, begins to move forward its shoulder t
bearing on the pin 51 carries it and the bar T forward along the slot 53 of the plate U
until the end of the bar T strikes the block g¹, Fig. 18, when the latter, the bar g,
and the shuttle will move together until the stud 89 enters the spiral of the groove 88
when the sleeve Rand the case R' will be revolved in the direction of the arrow, Fig.
18. When the pin 51 reaches the forward end of the slot 53 it will be tilted to one
side, moving below in the curved end of the slot 52 into the curved part of said
slot 53, as shown at Fig. 19, and will then be on a line with the straight portion of
the slot 52 below, which prevents lateral movement and locks it in position as the
rod P continues to move forward, while the shoulder t of the slot 53 prevents the
pin from moving backward. The shuttle bar and shuttle are thus locked in place
longitudinally until the rotation of the cylinder by the movement of the stud 89
in the spiral 88 is complete. As the rod P recedes the cylinder is rotated in a
reverse direction, the shuttle remaining locked until the curved end of the slot 52
reaches the pin 51 and presents an inclined channel through which the pin may be
tilted to one side in the direction of the arrow, Fig. 20, and then enter the straight
part of the slot 53, Fig 20, when the pin and its bar will be carried backward.
The shuttle and its bar, although now free, do not immediately move back owing to
the distance between the head g₁ and the shoulder w³ formed by the closed end of
the rod P, Figs. 18, 20, but after a delay sufficient to permit the looping finger to
complete its movement the block and shoulder ws will be brought in contact just as
the loop is formed, when the shuttle will be carried back by the recession of the
rods P and g, and pass through the loop, the cylinder b will recede, the loop be
discharged and drawn up, and the parts assume their first position.
It will be seen that these movements are positive, invariable, and all except the
longitudinal motion of the cylinder b derived from the reciprocation of the rod P
without the use of springs, levers, or other appliances liable to result in lost motion
and irregular action.
A further operation results from the movement of the same shaft, that is, the
oscillation of the segment h, which is vibrated by a cam V1, Figs. 2º, 6º, the
inclined end of which bears on lugs at the rear edge of the segment, the cam
being rotated on the forward end of the shaft g by the cylinder b into a longi-
tudinal slot, in which (Fig. 6a) extends a lug 56 from the said cam V¹, so that the
cam will turn with the cylinder without being carried longitudinally thereby, but
can slide back and forth with the shuttle in and independent of said cylinder. The
shuttle when carried forward of the needle enters a race Y, in which it rests while
the thread is carried from the needle on to the shoulder s, a spring Y' serving to
prevent any rebound of the shuttle on entering the race, and holding it so that the
friction of the block gl in the hollow rod P shall not carry the shuttle inward before
the thread has passed fully across the mouth of the cylinder b.
The race Y is arranged at such a distance from the end of the cylinder b, which
in fact constitutes the other portion of the race, as to leave the intervening space for
the passage of the loop and the operation of the awl carrier. The wing 38 of the
awl carrier bar. M, Fig. 3, is made detached, having a dovetailed edge fitting a dove-

page_text: tailed slot in the bar, and being secured by a screw 60. To prevent the work
from becoming loose in the usual undercut recess in which it slides, slots 61, Fig. 3,
are cut in the side edge, which thus bear with a spring pressure against the guiding
edges of the case A. It will be noted that the needle a and the rotating and sliding
looper c are arranged so that the looper when at its highest point will take the loop
directly below the work plate on a line central with the axis of the looper carrier,
thereby reducing the throw of the needle and its length to a minimum, reducing the
risk of breaking, while the tendency of the loops to fall across the path of the
shuttle, which results on taking the loop from a needle passing at one side of the
cylinder is avoided. As it is not necessary to draw the thread doubled through the eye
of the needle while the latter is in the material, the perforation made by the awl
may be only barely sufficient in size to admit the needle and its thread; the stitches
therefore fill the holes, take a strong hold upon the material, and the knots formed
by the interlocking loops within the body clinch the stitches, so that those on one
side are held even if the others are cut or worn. No increase of tension is required
to draw the underloop into the fabric, this being effected positively by the vibration
of the take up lever E', Figs. 1 and 4ª, while the thread is clamped above it, the throw
of the lever being such as to take up all the thread carried down by the looper to
form the loop, and as much more as may be necessary to draw the under thread the
required distance into the fabric, so that the amount of thread drawn up and the
position of the lock in the fabric is absolutely uniform as long as the adjustment of
the pulley 74 is unaltered. By this means the lock can be drawn to any desired
position in the fabric, and no slip can take place. The cam ring G³ and its adjuncts
perform three offices; first, to raise and lower the presser foot; second, to unlock
the jaw De to permit the thread to be drawn freely when the foot is up; and,
third, to uncant the biting rings, so that the sleeve G₁can be moved upward through
them. Any other available device or devices may however be used for effecting
these operations. By imparting a rocking motion to the feeder e the thread is cast
off uniformely and with precision, and the feeder is made in the form of a roller to
prevent the wax from being scraped from the thread..
To melt the wax and maintain that on the thread, especially when the latter is
upon the looper, at a proper temperature, which should be such that the thread
should not become stiff and wiry, a hollow box or steam chest W, Figs. 1 and 2, is
arranged beneath the bed plate, and is supplied with steam or other hot fluid, which
is conveyed through pipes or channels W' to a steam case W³ surrounding the wax
pot P, and to a steam case W2 surrounding a receptacle in which the case R¹
revolves, and which is in close proximity to the looper. The radiation of heat from
the parts thus heated warms the wax sufficiently to maintain the thread flexible and
prevent the loop from setting or hardening on the looper.
The steam in the chamber W8, Fig. 21, maintains the wax in the inner receptacle
in a melted condition, a hollow central stem m° also receiving steam and facilitating
the heating of the wax. Upon the stem me slides a sleeve M2 having at the lower
end one or more slotted ears p², and at the upper end arms m³ with sockets for
receiving blocks m³, which are shown arranged angularly on opposite sides of a set
screw M³, an inclined faced annular rib on which bears on each block. Each arm
has a transverse channel z below a pad, upon which a block m³ presses. When a
thread is to be waxed the sleeve is raised, the thread passed through the eye of one
of the ears p², and through one of the channels of the stripper, and the sleeve is
then depressed. As the thread is drawn upwards the wax adheres, but the super-
fluous wax is stripped therefrom by the pressure of the pad as the thread is drawn
through the channel z. The thread is thus thoroughly saturated without being
weighted with an undue external coating of wax.
The construction of the shuttle is particularly illustrated in Figs. 11 and 12.
The case p² is a hollow cylinder open at one end and closed at the other, which has
the external rib or projection m³, with a shaped curved recess in which the
flanged edge of the segment h operates, as before described. On the outside of the
shuttle are ribs p³ which serve as bearings, so that if the thread should be caught

page_text: between the shuttle and the race it will lie freely in the spaces between the ribs
instead of being tightly jammed between the body and the race, as heretofore.
Between guiding edges formed by cutting a slot in the top of the shuttle case fits
the upper portion of an L shaped plate or bracket 10, the forward end of which is
reduced to form a spring finger i, baving a catch at the outer end which springs
up opposite a shoulder formed by an opening j in the case when the bracket is
pushed into the position shown. The vertical arm of the bracket is perforated in
fine with a recess in the head of the case to afford bearings for journals no at the
ends of the bobbin, consisting of a spindle n³ and circular heads n³, n, Fig. 13.
To the horizontal arm of the bracket, near its rear end, is pivoted a spring tension
plate having openings for the passage of the bobbin thread, which extends
beneath the plate from openings in the horizontal arm of the bracket. As the
plate is pivoted at the rear the tendency of any draft upon the thread will be to
maintain it in its position in line with the shuttle, or to restore it to such position
should it be displaced from any cause.
By depressing the catch finger, which may be done by inserting a pin in the
opening and drawing out the bracket 10, the bobine may be at once released and
removed, and may be replaced, and then secured by simply pressing the bracket
into its position. The end of the thread is secured to the bobbin prior to winding
by passing it through an opening 1, and to avoid the possibility of this end projecting
and creating friction from being cut off too long the edge of said opening is
sharpened, so that by drawing upon the end of the thread it will be shaved off
close to the face of the bobbin head.
The wax pot is made the support for a bobbin winding device, Figs. 21 to
24, that the thread may be drawn directly from the pot to the bobbin, which
pot has three brackets P8, Pº, P10, bored out to form guides and bearings for a
rotating shaft P1 and a sliding rod P12 The shaft P has a cap a¹, between
which and the bracket P' is a coiled spring a tending to raise the cap to retain
a spool or bobbin X² resting thereon in contact with a centering spring c²
adjustable in the bracket Ps. On the shaft P¹¹ turns a cam cylinder Q³, into the
peripheral groove of which extends a stud a from the rod P12, which thus
derives a vertical reciprocating movement from the rotation of the cylinder.
In a recess in the flat face of the bracket P10 fits the hub of an eccentric 6³, a
feather on which extends into a slot on the shaft P₁, so that both must turn
together without interfering with the longitudinal movement of the shaft. Between
guides or shoulders 6 of the bracket P10 fits a slide c³ which is reciprocated by the
eccentric b³ which occupies a position in an opening in said slide, and a pin e¹ on
said slide extends into a slot e³ in a disk d³ which fits a recess in a plate g² having
its fulcrum on the shaft P¹¹. The disk may be turned in its socket by means of a
lever pivoted by a pin c to the plate g. When the disk d³ is set to bring its
slot at an angle to the line t¹ in which the pin e¹ moves as the slide 3 is carried
back and forth by the action of the cam 63 the pin bearing on the edges of the slot
will impart to the plate 92 a vibrating movement, the extent of which will depend
on the angle of the slot. To the pin e* is hung a spring dog e7 having lugs i, 23.
which dog is carried with the plate g². The spring which extends from the lug 2
tends to turn the dog on its fulcrum, so that the lugs are brought against the
opposite sides of an annular flange m¹ at the bottom of the cylinder Q2, and bite
the said flange on each side when the dog is carried in the direction of the outer
arrow, Fig. 21, so that the cylinder is carried with the dog and turned in the
direction in which the dog travels. When the dog is carried in the opposite direc-
tion the bite is relieved, and the dog moves back without carrying the cylinder
with it. To prevent the cylinder from being turned backward by friction with any
of the parts, a second dog h¹ is used, consisting of a forked plate embracing and
rocking on the rod P¹, and carrying an elongated lug and a spring. The lug
extends into a groove m² in the bottom of the cylinder, and the spring turns the
lug to an angle so as to bite against the opposite edges of the said groove when the
cylinder tends to turn in the direction of the arrow 1, Fig. 21, but on the rotation

page_text: termi-
of the cylinder in the reversed direction the plate and lug are turned by its spring
Bo that the lug no longer jams against the sides of the groove. The rod P
nates in an arm having an eye through which a thread is conducted to the
bobbin. The shaft P is rotated by any suitable appliances, carrying with it the
eccentric bs and the spool, which, as it rotates, draws the thread through the eye ³,
the rod P moving alternately up and down and laying the thread in regular coils
upon the bobbin. The rapidity of the movement of this rod is regulated to increase
with the increased thickness of the thread by adjusting the lever f2 so as to turn the
disk d³, change the angle of the slot e³, and thus impart greater or less throw to the
plate g² at each rotation of the eccentric, and consequently a greater or less move-
ment to the cam cylinder and to the thread carrier. Any other way of securing the
bobbin to the shaft P1 may be adopted, and where threads of uniform thickness are
wound the lever f³ and the adjustable disk d³ may be dispensed with, the plate g³
being slotted instead; or the throw of the slide c³ may be varied by providing it
with adjustable bearings for the eccentric. The plate g³ may be reciprocated by
other devices than those described, and any other suitable friction device may be
substituted for the biting dog h³, which may be pivoted to or rock on a stationary
pin or shaft instead of on the sliding rod Piz
In the manufacture of round reins it has been common to double a strip a, Figs. 1d
to 5ª, of leather around a core strip d, cut the outer strip by hand to form channels i,
and then sew the strips together by stitches passing through the material and
drawn into the channels within the outer surface of the leather, as shown in Fig. 4d.
After the sewing, the edges of the strip a are chamfered off, as shown by dotted lines,
Fig. 4d, and the piece is then consolidated and rotated under pressure between flat
surfaces or otherwise rounded to the shape shown in Fig. 5d. This process is objec-
tionable from the difficulty of maintaining the coincidence while sewing of the
upper and lower channels i, as the strips are apt to be displaced as they are inserted
beneath the presser foot and in feeding forward. Thus the stitching sometimes
runs outside the channels and the thread is cut when the corners are chamfered off.
This feature of the Invention consists in combining with the presser-foot A, a
sharp pointed lip or knife e, and with a plate beneath the presser foot, a similar
knife el, both arranged on the same vertical plane, in a line with and in front of
the needle, so that the scores or channels i are formed in the material as it is fed
forward, and invariably in a position to be penetrated by the needle, insuring the
sinking of the stitches to the bottom of both channels. The knife e¹ may be secured
permanently. to a work plate; it is preferable however in order to enable ordinary
machines to be temporarily used with facility in the manufacture of reins of
different sizes to employ an attachment consisting of a detachable presser foot A,
carrying a cutter e, and detachable plate B, having grooves x, x¹, to receive and guide
parallel bars C, D, the former carrying a knife e', and the latter a gauge c, adapted
to the rounded edge of the leather strips, as shown. Each bar is slotted to receive a
clamp plate n, having a threaded stem p, extending through the plate and provided
with a thumb nut q, so that the gauge and knife bar may be adjusted and secured
after adjustment.
The plate B is provided with an edge rib and is secured adjustably by a
thumb screw or otherwise to the bed plate of a sewing machine, with its ribs 8 at
such a distance from the knife e as the nature of the work may require. The
bar C is then adjusted to bring the knife e' in line with the knife e, and the bar D
to bring the gauge c in position to afford a bearing for the outer edge of the leather
strip when both bars are secured in position. The attachment thus constructed
is applicable to ordinary machines in use, and may be adjusted to sew reins of
different sizes and score the outer leather on both sides at any desired distance
from both edges.
The above described mechanisms may be varied in some of their features without
leparting from the principles of the Invention. Thus the carrier of the gauge i may
be a revolving ring or arm carried in a circular or elliptic path, and may be
rranged at the inuer end of the race Y, or a reciprocating gauge may be

page_text: arranged to slide or vibrate beneath the base plate carrying the needle to its
position prior to the seizure of the thread by the looper. The looper C may be
pivoted to the carrier and bear against a spring to, as shown by Fig. 19, so as to
yield slightly to insure absolute contact with needles of different thicknesses. By
means of suitable slots and pins the reciprocating movement may be imparted to
the cylinder b, from the rod P, instead of using the cam wheel K for this purpose,
and it has been found preferable to place a buffer spring behind the cam V'. A
spiral spring may also be placed between the ring 8 and the cam G³. Other devices
may be substituted for the thread feed e, as a finger moving up and down. In place
of the vibrating segment 1, two bars projecting from opposite ends of a rocking
lever into spring sockets in the shuttle head may be used, and the shuttle may be
driven by devices at the forward end, and may be thrown instead of driven posi-
tively. In some instances a single ring may be used in place of two rings, the slide
F bearing against the underside of the ring instead of upon the lug, and any suit-
able device may be substituted for the slide F¹, for instance, a lug on the ring may
extend into a groove in the cam D2, or a pin on the cam wheel strike under and
tilt and lift the ring. It will further be apparent that although the various devices
are shown in connection with a machine for forming locked stitches with two
waxed threads, some of thein are adapted to chain stitch and dry thread sewing
machines.
The means employed for adjusting the shafts, and illustrated in Fig. 1º, 2º, and 3º,
have for their object to furnish an adjustable bearing whereby an exact longitudinal
adjustment of the shaft may be secured and an anti friction bearing against end thrust
is afforded. A is a portion of a shaft revolving in suitable bearings and provided
with two flanges a, a¹, having beveled inner faces ; B, B', are studs adjustable
radially in respect to said shaft and each carrying a conical friction roller b, corre-
sponding in taper with the side of the adjacent face x. The stud B being nearest
the collar a, and the stud B' nearest the collar a¹. Each stud is movable longi-
tudinally and capable of being secured after adjustment. If it is desired to adjust
a light shaft in the direction of the arrow 1, the stud B is withdrawn and the stud
B moved inward when the inclined face of the friction roller b, acting on the inclined
face of the collar a, will carry the shaft to the left. A movement in the direction
of the arrow 2 is effected by reversing these operations, the stud B' being moved
inward and the stud B outward. The studs B, B', however, are not depended upon
as a means for moving the shaft longitudinally, as heavy shafts must be first set in
position and then secured by adjusting the studs. By this means the position of
the shaft may be varied with the utmost nicety, and the shaft reset to compensate
for the slightest wear, while an almost frictionless longitudinally bearing in either
direction is afforded. It will be apparent that a like result may be obtained by
placing the studs on opposite sides of a single flange or collar having two beveled
faces, or by using collars with faces at right angles to the shaft and adjusting the
studs on lines inclined in respect to said faces. A practical embodiment of my
Invention is illustrated in Figs. 20, 30, in which D is the shaft bearing recessed to
receive the collars a, a', and with radial threaded openings adapted to the threaded
studs B, B¹, the centres of the two openings being upon different parallel planes
represented by the dotted lines y, y. To a threaded opening midway between the
studs B, B', is adapted a threaded stud I, carrying at the lower end a freely turning
flat sided wedge-block e, which may be forced between and against both studs B, B₁,
after adjustment so as to retain them in position. It will be apparent that bearing
blocks may be substituted for the friction roller b.
Having now described my Invention, and the manner in which the same may be
performed, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is,―
First. The combination of the eye pointed needle and reciprocating and revolving
looper and mechanism, substantially as described, whereby the looper is introduced
between the needle and its thread when the needle is at the limit of its lowest motion
retained until the needle ascends above the material and then operated to draw down
the thread.and enlarge the loop for the passage of the shuttle, as described.
}

page_text: 4
2d. The combination of the eye pointed needle, revolving and sliding looper, and
operating appliances, whereby the looper is moved across the face of the needle, and
between the latter and its thread when said looper is at its highest point above the
axis round which the looper revolves as described.
3d. The combination of a reciprocating needle looper arranged to pass between
the needle and its thread, and a gauge by which the needle is brought into
position to ensure the operation of the looper as described.
4th. The combination of the revolving and sliding looper and a gauge occupying
a fixed position laterally to said looper, but sliding independently thereof for the
purpose specified.
5th. The combination with the reciprocating needle of the revolving and sliding
looper pivoted to its carrier and having a lateral spring bearing as set forth.
6th. The combination with the eye pointed needle of a rotating and sliding
looper having its axis in a line with the needle, substantially as set forth. 7th.
The combination with the eye pointed needle of an awl arranged below the work
plate and appliances, whereby the awl is carried upward, forward to the path of the
needle, and then down and back, substantially as set forth. 8th. The combination
of an eye pointed needle, reciprocating shuttle, and a piercing and feeding awl
arranged to vibrate across the path of the shuttle, substantially as set forth.
9th. The combination with the vibrating and sliding awl bar M of an adjustable
bearing bar N, substantially as and for the purpose set forth. 10th. The combina-
tion with the awl carrier of an adjustable abutment N2, substantially as set forth.
11th. The combination of the reciprocating shuttle, loop distending devices, and
a driving rod, and devices connecting the same positively to the shuttle having
variable points of attachment to permit the passage of the needle thread between
the shuttle and the rod without contact therewith, as set forth. 12th. The com-
bination of the shuttle and driving-rod, recessed segment connecting the two, and
appliances for vibrating the segment to maintain its recess coincident with the
needle thread in its passage across the face of the shuttle, substantially as set forth.
13th. The combination of the shuttle, driving rod, vibrating segment, and cam V₁,
constructed to operate the segment, substantially as set forth.
14th. The combination of the shuttle, driving rod, and locking device, whereby
the longitudinal movement of the shuttle is prevented until the loop is distended
for its passage, substantially as set forth.
15th. The combination of the shuttle and driving rod, and the slotted shaft P,
block T, and pin 51, and the stationary slotted plate U, constructed and operated
to permit the partial movements of the shaft independent of the rod, and to lock
the latter in position during said movements, and release and carry it after the
completion of the same, substantially as specified. 16th. The revolving looper
carrier b and sliding gauge i having a lug 40, in combination with a yoke S, having
pointed ends, substantially as and for the purposes set forth. 17th. The combina-
tion of the looper carrier b, of a case R' within and by which the carrier is rotated,
and devices for imparting an independent sliding movement to the carrier, substan-
tially as set forth. 18th. The combination with the case R¹ of a sleeve R, having
a slot 88 adapted to a pin 89 on the bar P, substantially as described for the purpose
set forth.
19th. The combination of the case R¹, its slotted sleeve, looper carrier b, the
shuttle, and its driving-rod and the sliding-bar P, and appliances, substantially as
described, whereby the alternate rotation of the carrier and reciprocation of the
shuttle are imparted from the sliding movement of the bar, as specified.
20th. The combination with the eye pointed needle of the vibrating arm I
carrying the needle thread feeder e, and appliances for turning the latter to cast off
the thread, substantially as set forth.
21st. The needle thread feed consisting of the roller e, carried by and turning on
a vibrating and rocking arm, substantially as set forth. 22d. The combination of
the needle-bar and a surrounding and adjustable sleeve carrying the presser foot
and thread feeder appliances, substantially as specified.

page_text: 23d. The combination of the presser-foot bar of a surrounding biting ring and
appliances for tilting and elevating the ring and raising the bar therewith, substan-
tially as set forth.
24th. The combination of the presser foot bar, biting ring, and devices for
depressing the ring and elevating the bar through the same, substantially as
set forth. 25th. The combination of the presser foot bar, rings 7 and 8, and slide F',
having shoulders arranged to bear successively against the rings as the slide is
moved, for the purpose set forth. 26th. The combination of the presser-bar and its
biting rings, elevating cam G³, clamp D and appliances, substantially as described,
whereby the turning of the cam loosens the rings and clamp, and elevates the bar
as specified.
27th. The combination of the hollow arm B10, shafts B1, C10, and connecting
lever E, vibrating and sliding on the stud a detachably secured to said hollow arm,
substantially as set forth.
28d. The combination with the lever E and its pin b¹ of the shaft D10, carried
by and within the detachable arm B10, and having a wheel D¹, with a socket b¹º
open at one side, for the purpose specified.
29th. The combination with the shuttle race of a surrounding chamber W2,
arranged to receive a heated fluid and fluid heating appliances, as set forth.
30th. The combination of a looper and heated chamber, arranged adjacent thereto,
and heating appliances for the purpose set forth. 31st. The combination with the
'needle a and revolving looper of the clamp D, and take up E arranged to operate
as set forth. 32d. The work plate A¹ having slotted edges, substantially as and for
the purpose specified. 33d. The wax pot having a central hollow stem m³, sup-
porting the strippers and communicating with the steam chamber W³, as set forth.
34th. The combination with the wax pot of the adjustable sleeve M², provided
with one or more slotted ears p², and one or more strippers for removing the super-
fluous wax from the thread, substantially as set forth. 35th. The combination of
the socketed arm m³, its channel z, the block m³, having a pad at the lower end and
set screw M³, substantially as set forth.
36th. A sewing machine shuttle provided with longitudinal ribs p³ upon the
outside of the case, substantially as and for the purposes set forth. 37th. The
combination with the shuttle case having guiding edges of an shaped bracket, the
horizontal portion of which fits between said edges and the vertical portion of
which has a bearing for the journal of the bobbin, substantially as set forth.
38th. The combination of the shuttle case and detachable L shaped bracket
having a spring catch adapted to engage with a shoulder of the case, as set
forth.
39th. The combination with the shuttle of a spring tension plate pivoted at
the end opposite to that towards which the thread is drawn, as specified.
40th. The bobbin provided with a recess having a sharpened edge, as set
forth.
41st. The combination of the shaft P₁ for carrying a bobbin, cam Q³ turning on
said shaft, sliding thread carrying rod P¹, having a pin entering the groove of the
cam and reciprocating plate 92, carrying a spring dog e' having lugs 72, 7-³, arranged
to receive between them a rim m³ of the cam, all arranged to operate as set forth.
42d. The combination with the plate g2 and reciprocating slide c³ of an adjustable
disc d³ carried by the plate g³, and slotted to receive a pin e¹ on the slide, substan-
tially as set forth.
43d. The combination with the flanged cylinder Q2 and its operating devices, of
the spring dog h¹, having a lug i adapted to fit a groove in the cylinder and rocking
on the shaft P2 or its equivalent, as set forth.
44th. The combination with the presser foot of a sewing machine of a knife e
carried by said foot and a knife e', arranged upon a plate adjacent to the
needle opening in the same vertical plane as the knife e, for the purpose set
forth.
45th. The plate B carrying an adjustable gauge c, and an adjustable knife carrying

page_text: bar C, and adapted for attachment to a sewing machine, substantially as and for
the purpose set forth.
46th. The combination of a flanged shaft and two adjustable studs B, B',
arranged in respect to the shaft and operating to retain the same longitudinally
in the different positions to which it may be adjusted, substantially as set forth.
47th. The combination of the shaft, one or more beveled sided flanges or collars,
and radially adjustable studs B, B¹, carrying friction rollers b, substantially as set
forth.
48th. The combination with the adjustable studs B, B¹, of the adjustable wedge e,
as set forth.
In witness whereof, I, the said Simon Willard Wardwell, jr., have hereunto
set my hand and seal, this Eleventh day of August, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and seventy nine.
SIMON WILLARD WARDWELL, JR. (L.S.)