IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF HATS
Year: 1867

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Henry Wallwork, of the City of Manchester, in
the County of Lancaster, Ironfounder and Engineer, for the Invention of
Sealed the 24th March 1868, and dated the 9th October 1867.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Henry Wallwork at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
9th October 1867.
I, HENRY WALLWORK, of the City of Manchester, in the County of
Lancaster, Ironfounder and Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of the
said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF
HATS," to be as follows:-
My improvements relate to machinery for "curling' or shaping the brims
of hats, that is, turning up the edge of the brims; and my Invention consists
in improved arrangements and combinations of mechanism for the purpose.
The hat previously to being shaped or "curled" must have its brim softened
by heat, and my improvements in arrangements for this purpose consist in
applying the heat so that it will only act upon the brim, and not also upon
the body of the hat as hitherto. I accomplish this part of my Invention by

page_text: making the heating chest or bed with holes cut out opposite the body of the
hat, so that the brim only of the hat comes over the beated surfaces, and also
by causing a current of cold air to circulate over the body of the hat to keep
it cool, such current being produced by a fan or other means. To shape and
curl the brim the hat thus prepared is placed in a holder which is of the size
and shape of the exterior of the body of the hat near the brim, and this holder
is of such shape as to form a mould for the brim of the hat to be bent round.
The holder or mould is in two halves, so that it can be removed from the hat
when the brim is "curled," and also so that hats, larger at the crown than near
to the brim can be placed within and removed from the holder. The holder or
mould rests and is held in a bed or table, one side of which can open to admit
the body of hats larger at the crown than at the brim. Upon the bed or
table slides are mounted which can move to and from the brim of the hat.
The bed or table is arranged so that it can be slided to and fro in the frame
of the machine so as to be brought under or be withdrawn from under a ram or
piston plate; this piston plate is arranged to slide vertically, and is actuated
by screws, levers, or an bydraulic ram. Upon the piston plate inclines are
arranged, which act upon the lateral slides upon the bed or table and force
them towards the brim of the hat when the piston descends; these slides
being forced backward by springs, weights, or inclines when the piston
ascends. Levers may be used in place of the inclines, and the lateral slides
may be actuated independently. To the piston (and this is an important
feature of my Invention) a piece of india-rubber or other suitable elastic
material is secured, which in form is a flat disc with a vertical flange all
round, and is of the size and shape of the hat brim before it is "curled;" this
india-rubber is secured to the piston plate by a disc of metal and bolts.
When the piston plate descends the flat part of the india-rubber is pressed
firmly upon the upper surface of the brim, and the cylindrical flange part of
it is forced round and under the brim mould or holder by the lateral slides
upon the bed, the edges of which are shaped to act as uniformly as possible
upon the india-rubber. The hat is allowed to remain under pressure for a
minute or two until the brim is set; then the piston plate is withdrawn and
the bed is slided from under and the hat is removed. The bed or table may
be made double, so that while one hat is under pressure another may be
removed and made ready. The piston plate part may also be made fixed,
and the frame carrying the table or bed may be arranged in slides to ascend
and descend, and may be actuated by screws, levers, or by an bydraulic ram ;
the bed or table may also be made so as to move up and down simply, the
piston plate being hinged to open like the lid of a box. Several beds or

page_text: tables may also be arranged upon the same frame, and actuated by the same
hydraulic ram or same screw or set of levers.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Henry Wallwork in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
8th April 1868.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, HENRY
WALLWORK, of the City of Manchester, in the County of Lancaster, Iron-
founder and Engineer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Ninth day of October, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-seven, in the thirty-first year of
Her reign, did for Herself, Her heirs, and successors, give and grant unto
me, the said Henry Wallwork, Her special license that I, the said Henry
Wallwork, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I,
the said Henry Wallwork, my executors, 'administrators, and assigns, should
at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times
thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make,
use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and
Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS
IN MACHINERY FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF HATS," upon the condition (amongst
others) that I, the said Henry Wallwork, by an instrument in writing under
my hand and seal, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of
the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed,
and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six
calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters
Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that T, the said Henry Wallwork, do hereby declare
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement and accompanying Drawings (that is to say):
:-
My improvements relate to machinery for "curling" or shaping the brims
of bats, that is, shaping and turning up the edge of the brims, and my
Invention consists in improved arrangements and combinations of mechanism
for the purpose. The hat previously to being shaped or "curled "must have its
brim softened by heat, and my improvements in arrangements for this purpose
consist in applying the heat, so that it will only act upon the brim, and not

page_text: also upon the body of the hat as hitherto. I accomplish this part of my
Invention by making the heating chest or bed with holes through it opposite
the body of the hat, so that the brim only of the hat comes over the heated
surface, and also by causing a current of cold air to circulate within or over
the body of the hat to keep it cool, such current being produced by a fan
or other means. A similar heating chest to that above described is used for
giving the finish to the "curl" when the brim of the hat is "bound." To shape
and "curl" the brim of the hat (prepared as above described) it is placed in a
holder, which is of the size and form of the exterior of the body of the hat
near the brim, and this holder is of such shape as to form a mould for the
brim of the bat to be bent round. The holder or mould is in two halves, so
that it can be removed from the bat when the brim is curled, and also so that
hats larger at the crown than near the brim can be placed within and remove l
from the holder. The holder or mould rests in a bed or table, upon which
slides are mounted which can move to and from the brim of the hat. The bed.
or table is arranged so that it can be slided to and fro in the frame of
the machine so as to be brought under or be withdrawn from under a ram
or piston plate. This piston plate is 'arranged to slide vertically, and is
actuated by screws, levers, cams, or other suitable mechanism, or by rams or
pistons acted upon by the pressure of water, steam, or other motivo power.
Upon the pistons inclines are arranged which act upon the lateral slides upon
the bed or table and force them towards the brim of the hat when the piston
plate descends; these slides being forced backwards by springs, weights, or
inclines; when the piston plate ascends levers may be used in place of inclines,
and the lateral slides may be actuated independently. To the piston plate
(and this is an important feature of my Invention) a piece of india-rubber or
other suitable elastic material is secured, which in form is a flat disc with a
vertical flange all round, and is of the size and shape of the brim before it is
"curled" or a little larger. This india-rubber is secured to the piston plate by a
disc of metal and screws or bolts, a ring of india-rubber or other spring being
placed between the disc of metal and the piston plate. When the piston plate
descends the flat part of the india-rubber is pressed firmly upon the upper
surface of the brim, and the cylindrical flange part of it is forced round and
under the brim, mould, or holder by the lateral slides upon the bed, the edges
of which are shaped to act as uniformly as possible upon the india-rubber.
The hat is allowed to remain under pressure for a minute or two until the
brim cools and is set, then the piston plate is withdrawn and the bed is slided
from under and the hat is removed. The bed or table may be made double,
so that while one hat is under pressure another may be removed and made

page_text: ready. The piston plate part may also be made fixed, and the frame carrying
the table or bed may be arranged in slides to ascend and descend and may be
actuated by screws or levers, or by an bydraulic ram, or a ram or piston
actuated by steam or other motive power. The bed or table may also be made
to move up and down simply, the piston plate being binged to open and shut
like the lid of a box, or turn upon a pivot. Several beds or tables may also
be arranged upon the same frame with piston plates and other parts upon ȧ
frame above all, actuated by the same hydraulic or other motive rain or piston,
or the same screw or set of levers or other mechanism.
The manner in which my improvements are carried into effect is illustrated
by the accompanying Sheet of Drawing.
$
pipe (6') con-
plate or other material
The air may be taken
Fig. 1 is a front elevation, Fig. 2 is an end sectional elevation, and Fig. 3
is a plan view of the apparatus used for softening the brims of the hats by heat.
a is a hollow.chest of cast iron or other metal, supported on two feet a', and
supplied with steam by a pipe a³, the condensed steam being removed by the
pipe a. The steam chest is convex on its upper surface to agree nearly to the
form of the bat brim, and several holes (a*) are forined through the chest (as
shown) about the size and shape of the body part of the bat. The hats (x)
are placed with the brim resting upon the chest (a), as shown in Figs. 1, 2,
and 3, adjustable guages or guides (a) being used to keep the brim in its
correct position upon the chest. To keep the body of the hat cool à current
of air may be made to pass into and then out of the hat by
nected with a main .pipe, which may be made of tin
supplied with air from a fan or other suitable blower.
away from the interior of the hat by a pipe (c) connected with a main pipe (c).
The current of air may be made to pass either by exbausting the air from the
main pipe (c) or blowing it into the main pipe (6) or by both, exhausting
from one and blowing into the other. The brims of the hats when "curled "
are not flattened to the fullest extent until the edges are bound, and for
flattening the edges of the "curled" brim to the fullest extent, after being
bound, a steam chest is used similar to that above described, as shewn by,
Figs. 1, 2, and 3, except that the upper surface is made convex to suit the
shape of the brim required, and the body of the hat (a) (which is inverted)
passes through the hole in the steain chest, us shewn in cross section by Fig. 4.
When the hat is placed in. the chest a ring weight (a) is placed over it, which
is curved to the intended shape of the surface of the brim; this ring (a) has
four adjusting screws (a') in it to fix the extent to which the curl of the brim.
may be flattened, as when the brim is softened by the heat the "curl" is
flattened. by the pressure of the ring weight until the ends of the screws (az).

page_text: rest upon the surface of chest (a). Pins (a) are used to keep the ring
weight (a) in its place, but a hinge may be substituted for the pins (as), as
shewn in dotted line, one part of the hinge having a slot in it, so that it may
be adjusted and secured to the side of the chest (a) by a set screw. The
weight ring (a) may be suspended from its middle part on pivots (a*) from
an arm (a) hinged to the side of the steam chest, as shewn in the edge view,
Fig. 5.
Fig. 6 is a sectional elevation in the lengthway of the machine; Fig. 7 is a
front elevation; and Fig. 8 is a plan section above the table of the machine,
shewing a machine according to one modification of my Invention for
curling or shaping the brims of bats; Fig. 9 is an enlarged detached plan;
and Fig. 10, a cross section on the line a, b, Fig. 9, of the table and slides.
A is the framing of the machine, the lower part has slides formed in it, upon
which the table can slide, the upper part carries the ram. a is the ram
cylinder; a', the pipe bringing water to the ram; and a³, the pipe for taking
away the waste water; a³ is the ram passing an ordinary hydraulic packing
ring (a). The ram (a³) is connected, as shewn, with its continuation (6),
which works in a guide (A') and carries upon its end the plate (6.) To the
plate links (a) are jointed, which are connected with the ends of levers (aº)
having their fulcrums (a) upon the framing, and to these levers weights (a)
are suspended, as shewn, to lift the rain after each descent. To the plate (6')
the india-rubber disc with vertical flanges (63) is also attached by screws or
otherwise, there being a thin plate (63) of metal above it, and an india-rubber
ring or rings (6), or other spring between the thin plate and the piston
plate (6). That part of the india-rubber (6) which comes upon the upper
surface of the brim (when the hat is in the machine) is shaped to agree with
it, or nearly so. The four wedges or inclines (63 and 6) for actuating the
slides in the table are attached to the plate (61), as shewn. The table (c), as
before stated, is arranged to slide in the framing, so as to be pushed under
the piston plate (b) or be withdrawn from under it by the handle (c). In
Figs. 6, 7, and 8 the table is shewn in the position which it occupies
under the piston plate (6¹) when the hat is under pressure. The under side
of the table (c) has two ribs (c) upon it, which form guides to keep it central
while it slides to and fro in the framing, and they also act as stops when
pushed against the cross rib (A) of the framing. The centre of the tablo
has a hole through it to allow the body of the largest size of hats to pass
brough. Round the edge of this hole the mould (d and d¹) for the brim is
placed in two halves, the two halves being kept in their places by means of
two projectious (c) from the surface of the table, and pins (c) in two plates

page_text: (cand c) secured to the table, one of which plates (c) is adjustable end ways,
and the other (c) can slide to and fro, so as to open and shut one half (d') of
the mould. This slide plate (c) has a pin (c) from its under side, which is
connected with a lever (c) having its fulcrum upon a stud (c) upon the
under side of the table. The handle end of the lever (c) passes through a
slot in a plate (c) secured to the edge of the table (c) by screws, so as to be
adjustable in the lengthway of the slot in the plate, there being a notch in
the slot, into which the lever (c) by a slight side movement can enter, when
the moveable part (d) of the mould is in its place, so as to hold it there. On
each side are two slides (e) which are parallel with and move to and fro in
the same direction as the moving half of the mould (d). These slides (e) work
in suitable dovetail guides in the table (c), and they are formed of metal (as
shewn), so as to receive pieces of wood (c) formed to act upon the shaping
india-rubber () as required. These slides (e) have small slots (e) in them
for pins, which are fixed in the table, which pins act as stops to limit the
back movement of the slides, which is produced by means of india-rubber
springs (e) (one of which is only shewn in dotted line in Fig. 9), secured at
one end to the slide (e) and at the other end to the table or parts projecting
from the table, two springs being used for each slide. At right angles to the
last-named slides and above their level two other slides (f) are arranged in
guides secured to the table, so as to act upon the front and back parts of the
brim (one of these is only shewn in Fig. 9), and these slides are also pulled
back by two springs (f¹), one end of each of which springs is secured to the
slide (f) by a set screw (f³) and the other end to a projection (f") upon the
table (c). The four slides (e and f) are forced inwards simultaneously by tho
action of the inclines (6 and 6º) upon the outer edges of the slides, at the
middle of each, the inclines being adjustable in slots in the plate (61).
The manner of using the machine is as follows: -The sliding table (c) is
drawn from under the piston plate (6) by the handle (c), then the mould
(d and d) is opened by the lever (c³), and a bat having the brim softened by
heat is quickly inserted and the mould is closed. The table is then slided
under the plate (61) and against the stop (A'); the tap is then opened and
the water (under pressure) enters and forces down the ram (a³) until the
flat part of the india-rubber shaper (b) comes against the upper surface of
5 the brim, (the cylindrical sides of the india-rubber (6) coming between the
edges of the brim and the edges of the slides (e and f)), and during this time
the inclines ( and 6) have acted to bring the slides partially towards the
edges of the brim, the continued descent of the ram (a) compressing the flat
part of the iudia-rubber shaper (6) and the spring rings (6), which movement

page_text: causes the inclines (63 and 6") to press in the slides (e and f) against the india-
rubber shaper (b) to the fullest extent, and this bends the brim to the shape of
the mould (d and d). In this position the mechanism stands to allow time
for the heated brim to cool and set; the supply. tap is then shut and the
waste tap is opened and the weights and levers (a³ and aº) lift the ram and
connected parts. The table (c) is now withdrawn, the hat is lifted and carries
the moulds (d and d¹) with it, the moulds being removed from the brim by
lifting the two halves at the points where they join together. The moulds
are then replaced upon their pins (c) upon the table, and the operations
above described are repeated for each hat.
Another modification of my Invention is illustrated by Figs. 11, 12, and 13,
Fig. 11 being a front sectional elevation, Fig. 12 a side elevation, and Fig. 13
8
plan. In this case the ram cylinder (a) is placed so as to connect the two
side frames (A) of the machine below the table (c). The ram (a³) is con-
'nected to the table (c), and it has two side projections (c) (see Fig. 13)
which fit grooves in the side frames (A), so that, as thus arranged, the table
has a simple up and down vertical movement. The slides (e and f) in this
table (c) are not shewn, but they are the same as those described in reference
to Figs. 6, 7, 8, 9, and 10. The inclines (6 and 6) which actuate the
'slides, and the india-rubber shaper (6º) is connected to the plate (61) in the
manner berein-before explained in reference to the Figures last namned; but the
'plate (1) in this case is mounted on a vertical shaft (67) in bearings formed
on one side of the frame (see Fig. 11), so that it can be turned to one side,
'as shewn in Fig. 13. When in the position shewn in Fig. 11 a projection (6*)
from that side opposite the axis of the plate (6¹) comes under a book (68)
secured to the side frame, as shewn in Fig. 12. Instead of the plate (b)
being constructed as shewn in Figs. 11, 12, and 13, it may be arranged as
shewn detached in Fig. 14. The india-rubber shaper (b) in this case is
secured to a piston plate (69), which can slide upwards when sufficient
pressure comes on, the rise being resisted by springs arranged upon the buffer
principle; those shewn are rings of india-rubber (*) placed between thin
plates. The stem (60) from the plate (0°) passes through the part (61), and
upon its end a nut and lock nut is screwed, by which the tension of the springs
may be regulated. Any other arrangement, such as a weight or weight and
lever may be used which while giving sufficient pressure will move upwards to
the required extent. The machine shewn by Figs. 11, 12, and 13 is used in
the same manner as that shewn by Figs. 6, 7, and 8, except that the plate
(b) is turned to one side instead of the table (c) being slided. The plate
(6 or b), Fig. 14, may be made hollow, so as to be heated by steam, which

page_text: screws.
may be taken to and from it by suitable swivel pipes, and a metal plate may
be substituted for that part of the india-rubber shaper (63) which acts upon
the upper surface of the brim of the hat (when in the machine), this plate
being made a perfect mould for the brim, the cylindrical part of the india-
rubber shaper (3) being secured in this case to the edge of the said mould by
In using the last-described arrangement a buffer spring or other
arrangement is employed equivalent to that shewn by Fig. 14. The table (c),
in Figs. 6, 7, and 8 may be made double, and the slides as well, so that one
hat can be placed or prepared while another is under pressure. The plate (b¹)
in Figs. 11, 12, and 13, may be hinged to open and shut like the lid of a
box, and may be locked or secured by bolts or latches in front, while the hat
is being pressed; or the plate (b) in this case may be fixed, and projections
may be made from a part somewhat similar to the part (c), in which a table
(c), like that shown by Figs. 9 and 10, may slide to and fro. The water for
actuating the rams is pumped into an air vessel, same as
machines for pressing or shaping the bodies of hats. The rams (a³) may be
netuated by steam or other motive power, being made of such area as will give
the pressure required with the available steam pressure. Screws arranged like
the fly press may be used in place of the bydraulic, or steam, or other pressure;
or levers, or a lever and weight, or cam inclines may be used for actuating
the mechanism. The slides (e and f) may be also actuated by a separate
Inotion, if required.
that used for
I have now described the nature of my Invention, and the modes of carrying
it into effect, and claim as my Invention,―
Firstly. Heating chests for softening the brims of bats, having holes formed
in them, and the use of air to keep the bodies of the hats cool, as herein-before
described and illustrated by the Drawings.
Secondly. Heating chests for flattening and shaping the brims of hats, as
herein-before described and illustrated by Figs. 4 and 5 of the Drawings.
Thirdly. The general arrangement and combination of the machines, shewn
by Figs. 6, 7, 8, 9, and 10, and Figs. 11, 12, and 18, for curling and
shaping the brims of bats, as herein-before described and illustrated by the
Drawings.
Fourthly. The use of the india-rubber shaper (6), or other suitable elastic
material, in the manner herein-before described.
Fifthly. The use of mechanical slides or lateral compressers (e and f) for
acting upon the india-rubber shaper (6) or other elastic arrangement, sub-
stantially as herein-before described.
Sixthly. The system or mode of giving pressure upon the upper surface

page_text: of the brim of the hat, and actuating the lateral slides or compressers
(e and f) by the same movement, substantially as herein-before described.
Seventhly. The use of an elastic arrangement or its equivalent, as described
in reference to Figs. 6, 7, 8, and 14, whereby sufficient movement may
be obtained after the india-rubber shaper (b) comes in contact with the hat
brim to actuate the lateral slides or compressers (e and f) to the required
extent.
In witness whereof, I, the said Henry Wallwork, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Sixth day of April, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-eight.
Witness,
PETER J. LIVSEY,
Patent Agent,
Manchester.
HENRY WALLWORK. (L.S.)