CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN THE CONSTRUCTION AND MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS, HALF BOOTS, SHOES, CLOGS, AND GALOSHES
Year: 1842

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, MARC
CARLOTTI, of No. 8, Little Argyle Street, Regent Street, in the County of
Middlesex, Gentleman, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, under the Great Seal of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and
Ireland, bearing date at Westminster, the Eighth day of April, in the
fifth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give
and grant unto me, the said Marc Carlotti, my exors, adññors, and assigns,
Her especial licence, full power, sole privilege and authority, that I, the
said Marc Carlotti, my exors, adiiors, and assigns, by myself, and them-
selves, or by my and their deputy or deputies, servants, or agents, or such
others as I, the said Marc Carlotti, my exors, adiñors, and assigns, should
at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times
during the term of years therein expressed, should and lawfully might
make, use, exercise, and vend, within that part of Her Majesty's United
Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland called England, Her Dominion of
Wales, and Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, and also within all Her Majesty's
Colonies and Plantations abroad, in such manner as to me, my exors, adûiors,
and assigns, should in my or their discretion seem meet, an Invention of
"CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN THE CONSTRUCTION AND MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS, HALF
BOOTS, SHOES, CLOGS, AND GALOSHES;" in which said Letters Patent there is con-
tained a proviso, obliging me, the said Marc Carlotti, particularly to describe

page_text: and 'nscertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same
is to be performed, by an instrument in writing under my hand and scal, and
to cause the same to be enrolled in Her Majesty's High Court of Chancery
within six calendar
next and immediately after the date of the said
recited Letters Patent, as in and by the same, reference being thereunto had,
will more fully and at large appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said
Mare Carlotti, do hereby declare that the nature of tho said Invention, and
the manner in which the same is to be performed, are described and ascertained
by the Drawing hereunto annexed, marked A, and the words and figures
following, that is to say :-
The nature of my said Invention may be divided into two parts, and consists,―
Firstly, in the introduction and concealment of a wooden sole between the
outer leathers, sole, and lining for boots, half boots, shoes, clogs, and galoshes, in
the manner herein-after described, and having for its object the better protection
of the feet from damp, and the combining also the advantages of lightness,
economy in the wear and tear and consumption of leather, and at the same
timo dispensing entirely or almost entirely with the necessity of sewing the
sole, and the vamp, and the various pieces of the sole together, and preserving
the appearance of a sole of leather only.
And, secondly, in an improved method and mode of construction and
arrangement in the manufacture of clogs and galoshes, herein-after par-
ticularly described, having for its object the better and more perfectly super-
seding the necessity of any instep or ancle straps, buckles, or ties, or any other
fastening across the instep or ancle, and to enable the wearer to introduce
and remove his foot, and to fasten on the clogs or galoshcs, or loosen them,
without the application of the hands or the necessity of stooping.
And I, the said Marc Carlotti, do hereby declare that the manner in which
the first part of my said Invention is to be performed consists,―
Firstly, in the employment of a sole of wood, either in one jointed or
unjointed piece, or in two distinct pieces, that is to say, a toe and heel piece.
In the latter instance, the wooden too and heel pieces are to be connected
by an intermediate piece of leather, which is to be nailed only across the two
ends to the corresponding inner ends of the wooden toe and heel pieces, but
for boots, half boots, shoes, and galoshos, is also to be sewn along the two sides
to the corresponding edges of the vamp.
Secondly, in adjusting around the circumference of the sole, constructed as
aforesaid, the vamp for boots, half boots, shoes, and galoshes, and the toc
and heel vicces for clogs.

page_text: Thirdly, in again overlaying this circumference, already covered or sur-
rounded, as secondly above described, with a band or strip of leather one or
two inches in breadth, according to the thickness of the sole, the one edge of
which is to be placed on a level with the lower edgo of the circumference
of the wooden sole, and the other is to be raised up above it, as is shown by
the Figures. 3, 4, 6, and 20, in the Drawing hereunto annexed.
Fourthly, in again surrounding so much of the wooden portion of this
circumference as is already covered, with the vamp, or toc, and heel pieces,
and the band or strip of leather hercin-before secondly and thirdly described
with a thin narrow metal ribbon, which is to be tightly nailed on, so as
to solidly fix or bind to the wooden portion of the circumference the objects
secondly and thirdly above described, as is shewn by the Figures 3, 4, 6,
and 20, in the said Drawing hereunto annexed.
And, fifthly, in turning down the band or strip of leather hercin-before
thirdly described over the nailed thin narrow metal ribbon herein-before
fourthly described, so as completely to cover and conceal the nailed metal
ribbon, and the circumference or edges of the wooden sole. This band
or strip of leather is to be then tightly folded under the wooden sole, and
there nailed fast, as is shewn by the Figures 10 and 16 in the said
Drawing hereunto annexed, and the bottom is to be then covered with a
leather sole nailed on, thus giving the sole all the appearance of being con-
structed of leather only, and dispensing entirely with the necessity of sewing
the various pieces of the sole together, or the vamp to the sole, except in
the latter instance, where the wooden sole consists of a separate toe and heel
piece connected by an intermediate piece of leather, which intermediate piece
of leather alone is sewn along its sides to the corresponding edges of the vamp.
When the metal ribbon is only nailed round the extremities of clogs, then so
much of the band or strip of leather as is not fixed or held by the metal
ribbon is to be tightly nailed down upon the upper and lower surface of the
wooden sole, as is shewn in the Figures 2, 10, 11, and 16, in the said
Drawing hereunto annexed.
And I, the said Marc Carlotti, do hereby also declare that the manner in
which the second part of my said Invention is to be performed consists,―
Firstly, in the use of one or several springs, to be laid over each other if more
than one, as is shewn by the Figures F, F, in the Drawing hereunto annexed.
These springs are to be placed along the inner or upper surface of the sole of
the clog or galosh along the centre, as is shown in the Figure 2 in the
Drawing bereunto annexed, when the clog has no heel joint, and in other
cases across the heel joint, as is shewn in the Figures 17 and 18. These.

page_text: springs are to be held at the two ends by two thin metal plates, beneath which
they are to play freely, and which thin metal plates are shown in the said
Drawing hereunto annexed by the Figure G.
Secondly, of a thin metal half circle to be introduced within the back of
the heel of the clog or galosh, and fastened to the sides of the heel by two
pins or rivets, upon which it is to work, as is shown by the Figures 1, 8, and
18, in the said Drawing hereunto annexed.
Thirdly, of a small curved spring to be fixed to the centre of the lower part of
the half circle, lastly above described, and shewn in the Figures 1, 8, and 9, of
tho said Drawing hereunto annexed by the letter J. This spring is to be curved
so as to raise this half circle when the foot is introduced into the clog, and to
press it against the heel of the boot or shoe, to which it becomes firmly adherent.
Fourthly, in having, instead of using the small curved spring lastly described,
the heel piece, or piece which surrounds the heel, made of thin metal plate
instead of leather, and by having a perpendicular slit cut therein about half
an inch in length at the centre of the back, reaching to within one-eighth of an
inch of the top edge. The centre of the small half, circle which plays within
the heel is in this instance to be furnished at its lower edge with a corre-
sponding projecting metal point or tongue, which passing through the slit above
described, when the half circle is fixed in its place within, the heel will work
freely and perpendicularly therein; this disposition is shewn in the Figure 13
in the said Drawing hereunto annexed. This half circle so arranged when the
foot is introduced rises with the action of the foot, and so fixes the clog or
galosh tightly to it.
'
And, fifthly, in substituting for and instead of the thin metal half circle
to be introduced within the heel of the clog or galosh and the small curved
spring to be fixed to the centre of the lower edge of that half circle, or
the metal heel pieco and the point or tongue attached to the lower edge
of the half circle, and passing through the perpendicular slit in the heel of
the clog or galosh lastly herein-before described, a spring clasp, shown in
the Drawing hereunto annexed by the letters D, D, and the construction
whereof is herein-after described. This spring clasp is to be fixed upon the inner
surface of the sole of the heel of the clog or galosh, as is shown in the
Figure 14 in the Drawing hereunto annexed; and when the boot or shoc is
introduced it has the effect of firmly clasping or holding the heel of the boot or
shoe, which can be only loosened by pressing upon the bearing point projecting
through the heel of the clog at the extremity of the spring clasp. The use of
this spring clasp admits of the reduction of the heel-piece of the clog or galoshi
surrounding the heel of the foot to a very trifling altitude, and thereby prevents

page_text: trowsers when tightly strapped down to the foot from being disturbed. The
spring (Figures F, F), by giving the heel of the clog or galosh a constant
tendency to curve upwards, presses the upper edge of the heel more closely
against the heel of the foot when introduced, and gives the small half circle
within the heel a firmer hold or purchase over the heel of the foot, and also
gives the spring clasp, where substituted for that half circle, a firmer hold or
purchase upon the heel of the boot or shoe; and to assist this object and increase
that hold or purchase (either when the spring F, F, is used or not), along the
centre of the half circle introduced within the heel of the clog or galosh is to
be fixed a double piece of soft leather or other thick soft material, folded
downwards to the breadth of the half circle, and the outer fold of which is to be
left loose to play down and up with the foot in putting on or removing the clog
or galosh, and this double piece is also to be fixed in like manner along the
internal centre of the upper edge of the heel of the clog or galosh itself, and
will greatly assist the hold or purchase of the heel of the clog when the spring
F is used without the small half circle secondly above described. To remove
those clogs or galoshes from the feet, it suffices to press with the toe of the
other foot upon the little projecting piece of the curved spring attached to the
half circle at the point J, Figures 1, 8, and 9, upon the projecting point or
tongue, Figure 13, when the metal heel piece and the perpendicular centre
slit therein to receive that point or tongue is used; upon the projecting point
of the spring clasp D, D, where that spring clasp is used; or upon the stud or
knob fixed to the heel of the clog or galosh itself, when it is furnished only
with the springs F, F, as is shewn at the point L, Figure 17, in the said
Drawing hereunto annexed.
The following is a further explanation and description of the Figures in the
said Drawing hereunto annexed. No. 1 is a side view of a finished unjointed
clog without the spring (F), shewing the outer leather sole to the toe and heel,
and the wooden toe and heel sole pieces connected by an intermediate piece of
leather. No. 2 is a view of the upper surface of a finished clog furnished with
its spring (F), the heel, with its small half circle, and its stud, knob, or bearing
point, and shewing how the band or strip of leather is turned over and nailed
down where there is no thin narrow metal ribbon to confine it. No. 3 is a side
view of the same, with its band or strip of leather to cover the wooden sole
and heel raised, and its thin metal ribbon nailed round, so far as the toe and
heel pieces extend. No. 4 is a side view of the same, with its band or strip of
leather raised, and its thin metal ribbon nailed round the circumference of the
wooden sole. No. 5 is a half or side view of a finished lady's boot, the wooden
toe and heel sole picces being connected by an intermediate piece of leather.

page_text: N.. is a side view of the same, with the band or strip of leather raised, and
showing the thin narrow inctal ribbon nailed round where the wooden sole
pieces extend. No 7 is a perspective or hind view of the heel of a clog fur-
nished with its internal half circle. No. 8 is a side view of the same, showing
its fastening to the heel at both sides. No. 9 is a perspective view of the
small half circle. No. 10 is a clog, with the exterior or outer leather solo
wanting, and furnished with its surrounding band or strip of Jeather. No. 11
is a view of the inside of a clog, and wanting only the thin metal plates G
and the spring F, which it is prepared to receive. No. 12 is a side view of a
finished clog without the spring F, the small half circle of the heel. down and
bid from view, but shewing the projecting point of the spring clasp D, D.
No. 18 is a side view of a finished single-jointed clog, shewing the small half
circle within the heel raised, the heel piece being of metal instead of leather,
and the half circle working by a point or tongue projecting therefrom through
the slit cut in the back of the heel. No. 14 is an inside view of a finished
clog, furnished with the spring clasp as a substute for the half circle at the
heel, and furnished with the piece of doubled soft leather along the centre of
the upper edge within the heel. No. 15 is a side view of a finished jointed
galosh; No. 16 is an underneath view of the sole of the same, wanting its
leather sole, but furnished with its surrounding band or strip of leather.
No. 17 is a perspective view of an entirely finished double-jointed clog, with
the spring introduced at the heel joint only, and furnished with the piece of
doubled soft leather along the centre of the upper edge within the heel, but
wanting the half circle to the heel, and shewing the stud or knob at the heel L,
by pressing upon which the heel is held back from the foot, and the foot is
introduced or removed. No. 18 is an inside view of the same. No. 19 is a
wooden soled jointed shoc. No. 20 is the same, shewing the surrounding band
or strip of leather raised, and the thin narrow metal ribbon nailed round the
edge of the sole. D, D, is a view of the spring clasp and the several pieces
forming it; A is the shank, shewing the screw which fastens it to the sole;
bis the nut, which is screwed at the other end of the shank; C is the spiral
spring, which works upon the shank; d is the complete spring clasp, the screw
through which serves to fasten it to the heel inside the clog; e is the projecting
bearing point for loosening the clog from the shoe; is the shank, furnished
with its screw spiral spring and nut; 9 is the interior of the tube, which holds
the spiral spring at the end where the fastening screw is placed; his the other
end of the same tube, which touches the heel, and where the bearing point
plays which revolves to press back the shank for loosening the clog from the shoe.
In the tube at h is a little collar, which acts as a stay to the spiral spring.

page_text: And I, the said Marc Carlotti, do hereby lastly declare that I do not claim
as any part of the said Invention so much as in the above description relates
to the employment or use of wooden soles or of vamps for boots, half boots,
shoes, or galoshes, or toe and heel pieces for clogs; or as relates to the con-
struction, arrangement, employment, or use of the springs F, F, in the Draw-
ing hereunto annexed; or the studs or knobs fixed to the heels of the clogs or
galoshes themselves when furnished only with the springs F, F, the same being
herein-before and in the said Drawing hereunto annexed only referred to and
described, the better to lead to and explain and describe and shew the applica-
tion of the said Invention. But. I do claim all else that is herein-before and
in the said Drawing described, and that whether the same is used or employed
together or separately, or with any other combination or arrangement having
the same object, as being part and parcel of the said Invention, and as having
never been practised or used by any other person or persons whomsoever, to my
knowledge or belief, within that part of Her Majesty's United Kingdom of
Great Britain and Ireland called England, Her Dominion of Wales, and
Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, and also within all Her Majesty's Colonies
and Plantations abroad.
In witness whereof, I, the said Mare Carlotti, have hereunto set my hand
, in the year of our Lord
and seal, the
day of
AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the Twenty-second day of September,
in the year of our Lord 1842, the aforesaid Marc Carlotti came before our
said Lady the Queen, in Her Chancery, and acknowledged the Specification
aforesaid, and all and every thing therein contained and specified, in form
above written. And also the Specification aforesaid was stamped according to
the tenor of the Statute made for that purpose.
Inrolled the Eighth day of October, in the year of our Lord,One thousand
eight hundred and forty-two.