Improvements in the Manufacture of Gloves.
Year: 1892

page_text: France),
Date of Application (in United Kingdom), 9th Apr., 1892
Complete Specification Left, 9th Apr., 1892-Accepted, 10th Sept., 1892
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Gloves.
I, LOUIS MARTINOT, of Chaumont (Haute-Marne), in the Republic of France,
Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner
the same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement :-
This invention relates to a method of cutting out gloves from skin or other
suitable material, whereby an article presenting certain advantageous characteristics
is obtained.
Hitherto, gloves have been made in two distinct parts, the one forming the body
of the glove (that is, the back and palm of the hand and the outer and inner sides
of the fingers), the other consisting of the thumb. The results were, first, that in
gloves made from skins, the colour of the thumb was nearly always of a slightly
different shade to that of the body, and, secondly, that the thumb, being cut
separately, and from the remainder of the skin (that is, from the imperfectly tinted
and less solid parts-the "flanks," for instance), the glove was very often unsatis-
factory in colour and quality, so far as the thumb was concerned; although the
latter, having the greatest strain upon it, ought to have been made from the best
part of the skin.
In the accompanying drawings,
Fig. 1 represents a blank cut out in accordance with my invention, and intended
for use in the manufacture of a lady's glove, for instance; X Y being the medial
line.
For the sake of clearness, the slits which are necessarily made in the skin are
somewhat exaggerated in the drawing.
In my improved method of cutting, the thumb and the body of the hand are in
one piece only, the width of the index finger remaining the same as in the old
styles of cutting.
The pattern of the stretched skin for use in cutting out according to my improved
method is represented in Fig. 14 and differs from that which occurs under the old
styles of cutting. The stretching, as is well known, is the operation which consists
in drawing out the skin in the directions indicated by the double arrow II, then
cutting the skin to the required length, then stretching it in the directions indicated
by the double arrow I, and, finally, cutting it out to the pattern represented by
Fig. 1. After this process, the skin is cut into shape in the ordinary way, that
is, it is doubled over along the medial line X Y; but it is first stretched in the
directions indicated by the double arrow II, so as to give it approximately the
form of the open hand. Lastly, the skin is cut out into a blank as shewn in
Fig. 1.
As will be seen, my improved method has special advantages in regard to manu-
facture, strength and fit.
Manufacture: The glove is all made at once, and, consequently, more quickly
than under the old styles of cutting; the workman having no longer to cut out the

page_text: thumb-piece separately, and, in the case of gloves made from skin, to match the
thumb-piece with the rest of the glove.
Strength-The whole glove is made from one piece, and the thumb (the part
subjected to the greatest amount of wear) is taken, as it should be, from the best
part of the skin.
Fit: The glove adapts itself better to the hand; that is, it fits better, the reason
being that it retains its elasticity, whereas, under the old styles of cutting, as the
thumb-piece was stitched to the main part of the glove, and moreover necessarily
underwent some degree of handling by the workman, the elasticity of the said thumb-
piece was greatly impaired.
Figs. 2 and 3 are views, drawn to a smaller scale, representing the upper and
lower sides respectively of a glove made from a blank of the kind illustrated in
Fig. 1; the glove being sewn up and drawn on the hand. The strips for the thumb
and for the other fingers are separated in the ordinary way; that is, there is a strip
with two points for the thumb (completely visible in Fig. 3 but only partially so
in Fig. 2), an internal strip for the index finger, an external strip and an internal
strip for the middle finger and for the third finger, and, finally, an internal strip
for the little finger. In Figs. 2 and 3, the seams not concealed, and appearing in
relief on the exterior of the glove, are indicated by dark continuous lines; whilst
the concealed seams, standing in relief on the interior of the glove, are indicated
by dotted lines. Amongst these latter, that which extends from the internal
point a of the thumb-strip to the fork of the index and middle fingers, shewn in
Fig. 3, calls for particular attention; this being a special feature of my improved
style of cutting.
Having thus particularly described and ascertained the nature of this invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed, I claim :-
1. The improved manufacture of gloves from blanks cut from skin or other
suitable material, substantially as herein described, and having the thumb in one
piece with the body of the glove.
2. The herein-described method of cutting out gloves from skin or other suitable
material, with the object of leaving the thumb in one piece with the main part of
the glove, instead of stitching it thereto, a seam passing from the fork of the thumb
to the fork of the index and middle fingers.
Dated this 9th day of April 1892.
G. G. M. HARDINGHAM,
191, Fleet Street, London, E.C., Chartered Patent Agent.