Improvements in or relating to the Lining of Hats.
Year: 1892

page_text: Date of Application, 8th Feb., 1892
Complete Specification Left, 27th Oct., 1892-Accepted, 3rd Dec., 1892
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in or relating to the Lining of Hats.
I, ALBERT LOUIS DELION of Passage Jouffroy, Paris, in the Republic of
France, Hat Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as
follows:-
In the hat-making industry there are known three kinds of lining in connection
with silk hats.
(1) The old French lining, which is removable and mainly consists of a piece
of fabric pasted on paper.
(2) The English lining which is also removable, and which is really but an
improvement of the French lining mentioned above the difference being that the
material is cut on the cross or aslant and is stretched upon its paper support, and
(3) The adherent lining consisting of satin or other suitable fabric is pasted to
the bottom or "tip" and side-crown of the hat-frame.
The English lining comprising a bottom part and a side-band as does also the old
French lining, is much used by reason of the graceful appearance it imparts to the
interior of the hat. It is however attended by the inconvenience that whenever it
(or the French lining) has to be temporarily removed from a hat which it is desired
to iron or brush up or treat in any other manner, it can only be replaced with
difficulty, the bottom-piece does not adhere as closely as before to the tip of the
crown; the angle formed by the bottom and sides is no longer square, and hence
both the bottom and side-pieces assume a creased and ruffled appearance, in fact it
may be said that the general aspect of the lining is spoiled.
My present invention combines the advantages of the English removable and
of the permanent or adherent linings while being free from the drawbacks of the
former. In the first place it is much lighter and no difficulty whatever is experienced
in either inserting it into or removing it from the crown of the hat.
The invention mainly consists in making the bottom-piece permanently adherent
and not as hitherto in one piece with the side-band, which band is removable like
the ordinary English lining and in addition to that, provided at the top with a
suitable stretching spring calculated to make the edge of the band exactly and
smoothly fit the square corner of the crown and securely remain in place when once
inserted.
The bottom or "tip-piece" of a suitable fabric or of cork or similar material is
fixed to the corresponding part of the crown of the hat, the paste or other
cementing medium being applied over the whole or part of the surface.
The movable band consists of an external strip of paper and an internal one of
satin or other suitable material which is cut on the cross and stretched upon the
paper. The upper edge of the ring thus formed is fitted with a spring of steel cane,
celluloid or other suitable material retained in position by the fabric being turned
down a little way or otherwise and mainly so arranged as to exercise an outwardly
expanding action. The result of this arrangement is that my improved movable
band combines the pleasant appearance of the English lining with the additional
advantage that it forms within the square corner of the hat a perfectly fitting joint
owing to the expanding or stretching action of the spring.
Besides this band may be removed and replaced much more readily and success-
fully than the French and English linings hitherto known, for no creases or folds
will form in the angle since the bottom-piece is never removed at all, it being even
possible whenever required to turn the band one way or the other the better to fit
it to the shape of the frame or crown of the hat.
To avoid spoiling the spring at the part where its ends meet a small pulling band

page_text: or strip may be attached to a point situated opposite the joint whereby the removal
of the band is still more facilitated.
Dated thin 9th day of Fahruoru 1892
W. P. THOMPSON & BOULT,
Agents for the Applicant.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in or relating to the Lining of Hats.
I, ALBERT LOUIS DELION of Passage Jouffroy Paris in the French Republic,
Hat Manufacturer do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement :----
In the hat making industry there are known three kinds of lining in connection
with silk hats.
(1) The old French lining which is removable and mainly consists of a piece of
fabric pasted on paper.
(2) The English lining, which is also removable and which is really but an
improvement of the French lining mentioned above, the difference being that the
material is cut on the cross or aslant and is stretched upon its paper support; and
(3) The adherent lining consisting of satin or other suitable fabric, is pasted to
the bottom or "tip" and side-crown of the hat-frame.
The English lining comprising a bottom part and a side-band, as does also the
old French lining, is much used by reason of the graceful appearance it imparts to
the interior of the hat. It is however attended by the inconvenience that whenever
it (or the French lining) has to be temporarily removed from a hat which it is
desired to iron or brush up or treat in any other manner, it can only be replaced
with difficulty:-the-bottom-piece-does-not-adhere-as-closely-as-before-to-the-tip-
of the crown-the-angle-formed-by-the-bottom-and-sides-is-no-longer-square,..
and hence both the bottom and side pieces assume a creased and ruffled appearance;
in fact it may be said that the general aspect of the lining is spoiled.
My present invention combines the advantages of the English removable and
of the permanent or adherent linings while being free from the drawbacks of the
former. In the first place it is much lighter and no difficulty whatever is
experienced in either inserting it into or removing it from the crown of the hat.
The invention mainly consists in making the bottom-piece permanently adherent
to the whole or part to the "form" of the hat and not as hitherto in one piece
with the side-band; which band is removable like the ordinary English lining and
in addition to that, provided at the top with a suitable stretching spring calculated
to make the edge of the band exactly and smoothly fit the square corner of the
crown and securely remain in place when once inserted.
In the accompanying drawings
Fig. 1 is a vertical section of a hat provided with a lining formed in accordance
with my invention.
Fig. 2 is an elevation of the removable lining band which in Fig. 3 is shown in a
horizontal section taken on line 1-2 of Fig. 2.
The bottom or "tip-piece" a of a suitable fabric or of cork or similar material
is fixed to the corresponding part b of the crown of the hat the paste or other
cementing medium being applied over the whole or part of the surface.
When the paste is applied to the whole of the surface, the bottom piece a adheres
to the whole surface of the "form" in the other case paste is applied only at the
part nearest to the circumference of the bottom of the hat so that the two pieces
are pasted together at the edges only, while they are loose in the centre.
The movable band consists of an external strip of paper C and an internal one
of satin or other suitable material d which is cut on the cross as indicated at d¹ and
stretched upon the paper c. The upper edge of the ring thus formed is fitted with

page_text: a spring of steel, cane, celluloid, or other suitable material retained in position
by the fabric being turned down a little way or otherwise and mainly so arranged
as to exercise an outwardly expanding action. The result of this arrangement is
that my improved movable band combines the pleasant appearance of the English
lining with the additional advantage that it forms within the square corner of
the hat a perfectly fitting joint owing to the expanding or stretching action of the
spring f.
Besides, this band may be removed and replaced much more readily and success-
fully than the French and English linings hitherto known; for no creases or folds
will form in the angle since the bottom-piece is never removed at all; it being even
possible whenever required to turn the band one way or the other the better to fit
it to the shape of the frame or crown of the hat.
To avoid spoiling the spring at the part where its ends meet, a small pulling band
or strip g may be attached to a point situated opposite the joint, whereby the
removal of the band is still more facilitated.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. In a hat lining a bottom-piece made to adhere to the bottom of the hat proper
throughout or only on an annular portion of its surface by means of any suitable
adhesive material or cementing medium.
2. A movable band similar to those used in English hat-linings and consisting of
a paper-support with or without a piece of satin or other fabric extended over or
covering such support its upper edge viz. that which is to be fitted to the rectangular
corner of the hat being provided with a spring capable of making the band adhere
to the whole of the hat and to form a perfectly closed joint between the band and
hat substantially as described.
3. The employment in combination with such a movable band of two or more
strips whereby the band may be removed from the hat.
The whole substantially as described and illustrated in the accompanying
drawings.
Dated this 27th day of October 1892.
W. P. THOMPSON & BOULT,
Agents for the Applicant.