IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES
Year: 1870

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Daniel Hanna, Civil Engineer, 3, College Street,
Belfast, Ireland, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING
MACHINES."
Sealed the 21st March 1871, and dated the 30th September 1870.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Daniel Hanna at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
30th September 1870.
I, DANIEL HANNA, Civil Engineer, 3, College Street, Belfast, Ireland,
5 do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
SEWING MACHINES," to be as follows:―
This Invention consists in certain mechanical arrangements and
contrivances for better effecting the French vein or hem stitch work by
machinery.
In the first place the needle arm is stationary so far as regards
position, but of course possessing the various motions at present used in
machines called the "Thomas," "Wheeler & Wilson" (6 Singer," and
others of a like character, the present Invention adopting the motions and

page_text: arrangements of aforesaid machines, and being merely attachments or
additions to said machines.
The feeders which are of the fourfold character being affixed to (or
are the terminations) of two arms, one of which has a progressive or
forward motion and the other a reverse motion, thereby causing the
fabric to be moved accordingly, two strokes of the needle being given
in the forward direction to one in the reverse. The motion being given
to the several feeders by spur geering or cams connected to the afore-
named sewing machines, and in use at present.
In addition to the above another attachment which consists of a
forceps or piercer arm, for the purpose of making a triangular perforation
in the fabric and retaining the same in position until the backward
stitch has been effected by the needle, the said forceps arm being
attached to and regulated by before-named spur geering or cams, as
the case may be.
An attachment spring bar is also attached to the needle arm or feeder
and acted upon by aforesaid spur geering or cams for the purpose of
oausing the needle, but not the arm thereof) to spring out of its direct
line and take hold of the what I term the inner edge of the fold of
the fabric, and after being effected by the back stroke of the needle
the needle by its own elasticity will recover its former or natural
position.
The position of the stitches I shall designate, No. 1, the back stitch;
2, the hem or inner stitch; & 3, the forward; thereby effecting the
object of the present Invention, viz., a V shaped perforation commonly
known as the French vein or hem stitch.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Daniel Hanna in the Great Seal Patent Office on
the 28th March 1871.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, DANIEL 3
HANNA, Civil Engineer, of 3, College Street, Belfast, in the County of
Antrim, in Ireland, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most. Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Thirtieth day of September, in the

page_text: year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy, in the thirty-
fourth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors,
give and grant unto me, the said Daniel Hanna, Her special licence that
I, the said Daniel Hanna, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or
such others as I, the said Daniel Hanna, my executors, administrators,
and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to
time and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed,
should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the
United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands,
and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES,"
upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said Daniel Hanna,
my executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under
my, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly
describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what
manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be
filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next
and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Daniel Hanna, do hereby declare
the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to
be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement :-
The said Invention consists in improved means of producing certain
stitches, commonly called and known as the French vein or hem stitch,
by machinery.
The "hem stitch work" by which name I shall herein-after designate
the effects capable of being produced by this machinery, consists of a
piece of fabric or cloth prepared in the ordinary way, folded in or down
upon itself, and having its fold firmly held by a constantly repeated or
recurring series of three stitches, which at the same time produces a
V shaped perforation in the single ply of the fabric, the which result is
commonly called and known as the French vein or hem stitch aforesaid.
Each stitch employed may be either a single thread chain stitch, or a
lock stitch, as commonly produced by a sewing machine.
The mechanism for producing the hem stitch work consists of certain.
attachments fitted upon and alterations either in form, dimensions, or
position of hereafter named sewing machines, and connected therewith
singly or collectively, as adapted to the production of the single thread
chain stitch or lock stitch to suit aforesaid work.

page_text: And in order that the said Invention may be fully understood I shall
now proceed more particularly to describe the same, and for which
purpose I shall refer to the several Drawings or Sheets hereunto annexed,
the same letters of reference indicating the same or corresponding parts
throughout all the Figures on the same Sheet or Drawing are used.
In the Figures on either of the three sheets the parts of the original
machine are marked in Roman capitals, with numbers occasionally, thus
A or A¹, the attachments or alterations in italics, thus 6 or b¹.
And in order to simplify the Specification I propose to indicate all
eccentric wheels, either faced cams or tappits, snail wheels, whether
wrought on face or edge, single or manifold, by the term "cam" or
cams. And also all springs, whether flat or curved wire, &c., as simply
springs. The Drawings describe their character generally.
The Figures on Sheet I. shew the application of this Invention to the
"Thomas' Sewing Machine."
Figs. 1 and 2 are side elevations of the machine%; A¹ is a cam
connected with the driving shaft A.; B, B, are the cams connected with
the needle slide and motions thereof; C is the feed lift arm or lever,
attached to which the upper end thereof (on the under side) is a
moveable flat arm g, to which there is a boss affixed, hinged to the
lever C. This arm is set in motion and regulated by the cam e, as also
by the lever C, the use of which is to shift the aforesaid boss from one
feeder on to the other, proportionably in time as 3 to 1 viz. twice on
the original. Feeder F to once on the other ƒ pressing and lifting in
this ratio as usual in such cases in order to the progressive feed motion
of F which is unaltered in construction, and the reverse feed motion of
the arm f, both arms are furnished with back springs (see Figs. 1 and 5)
but the feed push of the arm fis communicated therewith by the cam or
tappit wheel which is affixed on the countershaft m. m is a counter-
shaft connected and geared with the lying shaft p by bevil wheels, which
also communicates by the same description of gearing and wheels with
the upright shaft n, and which by means of the cams or tappit wheels e
and e¹ gives the necessary motions to the small hinged lever or arm g
and boss, as also to the small push bar w communicating with and
giving motion to the needle spring levers (Fig. 2) which is kept in its
original position by a small back spring at the top of the lever or spring
bar, see also Sheet III. The lying, counter, and upright shafts p, m, and n,
receive their motions by means of a spur wheel 6 geared into a spur

page_text: pinion a fixed on the main or driving shaft A, the original motions of
the feeder being adjusted thereby to suit the present Invention, the
proportion of the spur pinion with the spur wheel being as 3 to 1.
N.B This Invention does not confine the motions to the above ratio,.
but may be either increased or diminished as occasion, may require;
D, Figs. 1 and 2 is the progressive feed lever unaltered..
Fig. 3 is a plan of the machinery; Fig. 4 is an end elevation in front,.
and Fig. 5 is an elevation, full size, along the feeder slot, in order to show
the two feeders, their form. and motions; the shaded arm f is the new
feeder connected with this Invention giving a reverse motion to the
cloth by means of the cam or tappet wheel h, it is lifted in a similar
manner as the original or progressive feed by a back spring f¹, the
original feeder is shown by dotted lines.
The needle motions and machinery connected remain unaltered; only.
so far as convenience may require, except the needle itself which remains.
in its present position, but is sprung aside to form stitch No. 2 or the
hem stitch by the small spring lever s. when required, but regains its.
original position by its own elasticity. The shuttle remains unaltered,.
except the needle slot at the side in the shuttle case or arm which being.
enlarged to admit of the slant motion of the needle when forming stitch
No. 2 (see Fig. 10 in all the Sheets) is furnished with a slide fitted to the
side thereof (see Figs. 1, 2, 2, and 3), said slide being acted upon by a
pusher arm p³ governed by a cam p² on the shaft p filling up a portion
of the larger slot opening and just leaving a sufficient space for the
needle in either case to act therein, thereby narrowing the needle slot,
and ensuring the formation of the loop in the thread; i (see Figs. 1 and 3)
is a small push bar to push the piercer slide and case simultaneously
with reverse feed; j is the nipper closing arm with cam and back spring.
likewise; is back push cam and arm with reverse motion spring, the
use of this arm is to give a small. backward motion to the piercers in
order to bring them to the edge of the fold in the fabric immediately
before stitches 3. and 1 are formed. See also Sheet II., Figs. 1, 5, 6, 7,
8, and 9, as likewise Sheet III. Figs. 1 and 8, with descriptions hereafter
given for same, which may be substituted instead of this if convenient;
8, the needle springer bar or lever (Fig. 2) effects a sidelong spring upon
the needle which causes it to perforate the cloth on the fold forming the
hem stitch No. 2, this small bar is governed in its motions by the cam e¹
Fig. 5, and push slide W with a steady or reverse spring, all fixed on

page_text: the top plate of the machine, where necessary, or where the space below
is short for the push of the needle vertically, the needle springer s may be
caused to slide in a slot at the fulcrum or hinge by small attachments
to the needle slide giving the bar a vertical motion for a short distance
with the needle, thereby equalizing the push thereof to the needle;
d, the piercer with its case and nippers are similar to those shewn in
Sheet III., Figs. 1, 7, and 8, and described in Singer Machine Speci-
fication" of improvements which see, any difference existing being merely
that in this case the nippers are attached to the piercer slide case, while
in the former they are affixed to a back plate, and the connecting
arrangements suited therewith accordingly. In any case the con-
struction of the piercers and nippers attached are merely altered to
suit the particular machine to which they are attached, the motions
and results being the same, so that either of the descriptions in this
Specification may be modified and used for any particular class of
machine mentioned and described in any Sheet. The other parts of
the machine remain unaltered save in position and for convenience.
The working of this machine is as follows:-First, the needle motions
being equal and unaltered, as before described, and the stitch No. 1
being formed, the machine is set in motion, carries the cloth forward,
and the needle having been sprung back by the spring arm 8, stitch
No. 2 is formed.
Second, when stitch No. 2 is formed on the fold the back spring
relieves, and the needle resumes its original position in the arm, the
cloth is further progressed by original feeder, but immediately before
the needle is brought down thereon the piercers are brought down upon it,
a number of shires collected and brought together by the piercers being
closed by the action of the nippers e, e, a little push is then given to the
piercer arm by the back push bar j¹, in order to bring them close up to
the edge of the fold, and stitch No. 3 is formed by the needle.
Third, the third or last operation, viz., the reverse motion and the
arrival of the needle to the first point of another series of operations,
or simply a recurrence of the same series is then performed during the
interval between the third and No. 1 stitches, the piercers retain the cloth
shires tightly, and are moved in the same reverse direction as the cloth
by the pusher i, when the stitch No. 1 of another series is formed they
are loosed, and the operation is repeated, having performed what forms

page_text: "
the object of this Invention, viz., the production of "hem stitch work
by machinery.
N.B. A clutch formed in the usual manner on the working shaft A
will enable the operator to cast out of gearing the spur wheel b, thereby
reducing the properties of the machine to its original motions and use,
or simply shifting the spur pinion over a little beyond the spur wheel.
In the feeder feet or toes it is immaterial whether four, (viz., two to each
arm,) three, (viz., two to one arm, one to another,) or two, (viz., only
one to each,) be used, size of machine and convenience may only
determine.
Sheet II. describes the Invention as applied to that class of sewing
machines called the "Wheeler and Wilson's."
Figs. 1 and 2 are side elevations of the machine shewing the lower
portions thereof, partly in section..
A is the driving shaft of the machine, connected with and driven
accordingly by the pulley wheel A³ (see Fig. 3, which is a plan of the
machine); B is the rocker arm communicating with the driving shaft A,
and giving motion to the needle arm C by the rocker B¹; D; the foot
arm with the foot E; F is the bobbin hook and case; G is the feeder
slide, Fig. 4, in dotted lines, motioned by feeder G.
N.B. Although the members above described are still retained for
their original uses, yet they may be shifted to other positions, for con-
venience of this Invention.
same.
As the needle motions remain unaltered, if the present "Wheeler
and Wilson" needle attachment remain no description is necessary, or
otherwise, as is shewn by the Drawings, the "Thomas" needle arrange-
ment is substituted, the end only is altered and modified to fit and suit
These matters, however, do not form a part of the improve-
ments exhibited by this Invention. The outward arm on the original
machine H sustaining the presser foot is removed and placed in the
position as shewn on Fig. 3, where it becomes the sustaining arm for
carrying the needle slide (if so used) marked C', also the needle spring 8,
motions regulated by the cam s', the piercer d, with its case, side pushing
bar or tappet f, regulated by its cam o and spring f¹, slide lifter or
lever p, with depressing spring q, also regulated by cam o', pusher j³,
with reverse back spring and cam to regulate the motions thereof, also
the nippers e, e, for closing the piercer points attached to the outer.

page_text: plate, and operated upon its pressing spring e³ to press bar e¹ and lifting
levere (see Figs. 5 and 6), regulated by its cam i; all these particulars
and motions also described at length in " Singer Specification," and
on Sheet III. hereafter, which see. The needle spring bar & may be
encased or arranged so as to equalize the pressure against the needle in
forming No. 2, or hem stitch on the fold, as described in the "Thomas
Specification," which see.
The lower parts of the machine described in Figs. 1, 2, and 3 are,
first, the motions are taken off the driving shaft A by means of the spur
pinion a geared into the spur wheel 6 upon the lying shaft w, to which
are attached the cams c and d, which regulate the motions of the new
feeders cand d' connected with this Invention, and which feeders are
similar in construction and form with the old ones, as also the slides,
fixings, &c. connecting the same; the reverse feed motion must of
course be arranged as regards teeth set and springs in a different
manner, but at the same place as the other, and side connecting arms
wrought thereon to communicate with new feeder cams c and d, see
Figs. 1 and 4 for details. The motion of the countershaft v with all
the machinery attached thereto is slowed to one-third of the driving
shaft, viz., in a ratio of 1 to 3.
The Figs. 1, 2, and 3, on Sheet II., describe the manner, by means of
bevil gearing, &c., in which the motions are communicated to the
working head of the machine through the shafts m, u, and w. By
means of a clutch affixed in the main shaft A the whole of the new
motions are cast off, and the machine resumes and acts as before, but
there must be a re-arrangement as regards the feeder bars, as an inter-
change must take place in each case by taking out the one set and
replacing it with the other bar, the slots being made suitable to such
operation; the feeder adjustments in the new are similar with the old,
and only arranged to suit motions described.
N.B. A slide if necessary may be attached to the cloth plate, in
order to shift the throat kerf or slit connected with the needle hole to
be governed by a cam attached to upright shaft u, see Figs. 1 and 2.
The cam and slide to be in the same plane as the cloth plate, but under
the plate, and fitted thereto, the reaction of same to be by a spring or
springs; this slide is only used during stitch No. 2 being formed;
however, this portion of the Invention may be dispensed with in the
ordinary machines, but may also be dispensed with in others by widening

page_text: and reducing the motions connected with the piercers and needle spring
accordingly to one-third of the speed of the machinery connected with
the needle slide motions, and which motions are regulated and adjusted
by cams, levers, and springs, as shall be hereafter described..
'
The Piercer and Nippers, Figs. 1, 5, 6, 7, and 8.-The piercer slide d
is contained in a case, which is double-hinged at the top, and retained in
its position below by the fore slide f, back stay spring bar g, and pusher j'.
The piercer is set in motion and regulated by the cam o, to which is
attached the lever p, which gives the piercer slide a vertical motion, and
also by the spring q, which acts reversely, giving a downward action,
causing the piercer to enter the fabric to be operated upon. The fore-
slide f, to the back of which there are two small projections, gives a
sidelong or transverse motion to the piercer, being: operated upon by the
lever attached or connected with the cam o and spring f.. To the front
of said fore slide is attached the pusher j¹, acted upon by the pusher
arm n, which is hinged above at n¹, the pusher j and by it the piercer
being regulated by the cam m on the countershaft, gives the piercers,, &c.
a longitudinal or backward and forward motion as desired. The pusher j¹
passing through the nipper plate, Fig. 5, and being attached to a slide
plate to which the nippers e are hinged, gives the nippers a motion.
simultaneously with the piercers. The nippers or forceps e (Fig. 5), are
attached to a plate unconnected with, as in this class of machine, the
Singer," or may be attached to the piercer slide, as in the "Thomas
machine," (see Sheet I.,) which acts upon the piercer by being put in
motion by the cam i attached to the countershaft lever arm e and
counterspring h, giving a vertical and reverse motion to the press bar h,
which, acting upon the nipper arms c, e, opens or closes the piercer.
66
N.B. The piercers are kept open by a spring or springs, either in the
article itself, or attached thereto, which is immaterial, and must be
regulated by the size of the machine and space allowed..
The needle spring s (Fig. 1.) is simply a bar with a flat lower end,.
attached to and suspended by a hinge at the upper end thereof to the
fore plate of the machine, and kept in position by being passed through
said binge and a snug, as shewn on Drawing; the needle spring or bar
is acted upon and set in motion by the cam r fixed upon the end of the
countershaft, and when disengaged springs back by its own elasticity;
its use is obvious, that used and before described in the Thomas machine
may be substituted.

page_text: The Machinery below the Table.-Consists of the spur gearing, cams,
arms, and springs connected with the feeder motions.
The shuttle
arm F and crank being simply removed to the position shewn on
Fig. 1 down at the back end of the machine, and the connection x with
the shuttle slide made a little longer, or otherwise, as the case may be,
to suit feeder arms.
The before-named machinery is connected with and set in motion by
the upright shaft B (see Figs. 1 and 4), the original cam H remaining
undisturbed, but the lower end of the shaft is elongated and shaped to
suit the attachments to be added thereto; connected therewith is a spur
pinion t driving a spur wheel u fixed on the upright shaft u¹ (Fig. 4),
slowing the motion thereof as 3 to 1, and attached thereto is a double
cam, which operates in giving motion to the feeder arms v and w, which,
with the alterations in connection with the feeders, and which are by
setting the feeder attachments (shaped to fit) accordingly, with the
necessary springs at vand I, giving them reverse motions with each
other, all that is required of them in connection with the Invention;
but in order to retain the original motions of the machine clutches are
contrived on the upright shaft B, and also on the main driving shaft at
the upper end, see Figs. 1 and 4. The clutch on the main shaft A is
that commonly used in similar cases, and acts accordingly, as also the
lower one on the shaft B; but in order to use the lower one a prong
slide, see Fig. 9, is inserted into the space formed below the spur
pinion t, when the latter is raised up thereby, throwing the machinery
connected with the feeder arms and w out of gear, and reduces the
machine to its original state; but in order to make this state of things
available the lower ends of the feeder arms G and w, and marked
y and
on Figs. 1 and 2, are fitted with short slide pieces, each fitted with a
compass slide or other joint to their respective arms, and removeable at
pleasure, as the case may be; these connections, as also the lower clutch
prong are prevented from sliding out by a small slide fixed to the outside
of the machine.
N.B. The compass joint at z in case of the hem stitch work being
performed must be removed.
The working of the machine is as follows: -The needle motions being
equal and unaltered, the first stitch, No. 1, being formed, and the piercer
arm lifted, the machine is set in motion, the progressive feed motion
carries the cloth forward towards stitch No. 2, but in its progress the

page_text: needle spring & being acted upon by the cam r, as before described, it is
slightly pushed aside and backward (see position of Drawings), the pro-
gressive motion of the fabric being from the left side to the right) to the
position shewn on Diagram, Fig. 10, where the stitch No. 2 being formed
as usual by the needle, the cloth is further progressed by the usual feed
motion towards stitch No. 3, but in the meantime the needle springs is
relieved, and the needle by its own elasticity resumes its original position
and acts accordingly. The feeder arm G, as also with the attachment
arm W gives the progressive or forward motions, the other arm gives
the reverse, as an inspection of Fig. 2 will explain; the piercers now.
being set in motion (as shewn in Figs. 3 and 7), having been retained
in its upward position while the former operations are being executed, is,
on being released by the action of the cam o. instantly borne downward
by the spring q (the forceps being open), and piercing the cloth, at
which time and before the needle at the stitch No. 3, another pair of
forceps or nippers, Fig. 5, closes the points of the piercers, enclosing a
number of the shire threads, bringing them together, and simultaneously
another motion arm is brought into play, the pusher arm. being released.
by the motion of the cam m, it is instantly operated upon by the back
spring g', giving what I term a slight backward push to the piercers to a
very small space behind the stitch point No. 3, the needle then performs
the stitch No. 3, the reverse motion feed arm then comes into play by
the revolution of the cam u and forms the feed, thereby carrying the
cloth a small space backwards to the starting point No. 1 of another
series of operations similar to those before described, the nippers still
holding the threads are likewise carried in the same direction simul-
taneously with the feed, together with the piercers, by the operation of
the fore slide f which is attached thereto, see Figs. 6 and 7, performing
by adjustment the same distance, the needle then performs the stitch
No. 1 of the new series, as before mentioned, when it is released, and
the operation is completed, a repetition of the same effecting the object
of this Invention.
l
N.B.—It is also to be understood that in performing the hem stitch
the shire threads and folding have been previously performed, as has
already been alluded to. Also that other operations may be performed
by the maching by mamle

page_text: .
Having now described the nature of the said Invention, and in what
manner the same is performed, I hereby declare that I do not claim as
of my Invention, or the exclusive use of the several parts of the sewing
machines herein-before described and referred to, except where the same
are used in and for the purpose of my improvements, which I hereby
declare to consist in constructing a sewing machine or machines in
which the movements of the cloth or fabric are effected by means of
feeders, the first attached to, or similar with, the forward motion or feed
originally used in the machine indicated; and the second, viz., the reverse
feed motion, to spur gearing, arms, cams, and gearing connected with
countershafts or elongations of the same, as described, and altogether
set and kept in motion by a pinion or pinions on the driving and
upright shafts.
In the use of piercers (forceps) with nippers, (also forceps) to collect
the requisite quantity of threads, and retain same in forming a portion
of the operation of "hem stitch," and in the use of a small spring, lever,
or bar to act upon the needle spring to, and retain it in a proper position
to form the fold or hem stitch, said lever being operated upon and moved
by cams and arms attached to shafting and gearing in connection with
the countershafts already mentioned, the whole being adjusted by said
spur gearing attached, as before described, to the main or driving shaft
of the machine.
And also by the use of clutches affixed to said Invention only, causing
the operations produced to cease, and the original properties of the
machines to come into play as before.
In witness whereof, I, the said Daniel Hanna, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Twenty-eighth day of March, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-one.