Improvements in Bustles.
Year: 1888

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Bustles.
1, PERCY HADDAN, of the firm of Herbert & Co., Patent Agents; of 18 Bucking-
ham Street, Strand, W.C. London, in the County of Middlesex, Civil Engineer,
do hereby declare the nature of this invention, a communication to me from abroad
by Ratcliff Hicks of New York, in the United States of America, Manufacturer,
and in what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement :-
My invention relates to an improvement in bustles. The object of my present
invention is to produce a bustle of simple and durable constructions which will yield
to the person of the wearer and accommodate itself thereto in order to render such
an article of wear more comfortable than those of ordinary construction.
A further object is to so construct a bustle that the objectionable side sway of skirts
incidental to the use of ordinary bustles is avoided whilst proper elasticity to insure
conformature to the person is afforded.
A further object is to provide a strong light and cheap bustle which will readily
yield to upward pressure due the wearer assuming a sitting or recumbent posture
and that will be automatically distended to furnish a proper support for the skirts of
garments when the wearer is in an upright position.
With these objects in view my invention consists in certain features of construction
and combinations of parts that will be hereinafter described and pointed out in the
claims.
In the drawings making a part of this specification.
Fig. 1 is a side elevation of the bustle, with its flexible band broken away to show
the metal spring inside.
Fig. 2 is an enlarged view of one of the spring joints in connection with the elastic
bows showing the preferred method of attaching the bows upon one end of a spiral
spring which is thus made a hinge.
Fig. 3 is a modified form of bustle spring applied to the jointed bows to distend
the bustle, the body spring, band, and side strips being similar to the same features
in Figure 1.
A A are two upright side strips of elastic metal, preferably covered with a fibrous

page_text: material, these are of a proper length, which varies in bustles for persons of
different sizes.
Upon the top end of the strips A A an elastic spring strip B is secured at its ends,
this strip B having a tape cover B₁ which is extended at each side of the bustle to
afford a band whereby to secure it in place upon the person of the wearer.
C, C, C2, C3, see figures 1 and 2 are spring bows by which the skirts of garments
are held projected to drape properly, these are of about equal length, and are bent
into bow shape, the ends being all provided with metal eyelets through which the
pivotal connection of the bows is effected.
The eyeleted ends a of the bows CC¹² C³ are arranged to lap or lie flatwise
against each other so that when pivoted loosely together may be folded and appear as
one bow.
About central between their ends the bows C C &c. are secured to the tape D at
spaced intervals on the tape which will determine the distance apart the spring bows
may be separated.
The preferred method of securing the pivoted ends of the bows C C¹ &c. together
is shown in figures 1 and 2, this consists of two spiral springs E which have their
ends 6 extended toward the tape connection D, on the lower bow and secured to the
inner surface of the lower spring bow by a sheet metal clip c which clasps over the
edges of the bow.
The other ends of the spiral springs are bent at right angles to the coils of the
springs, and are inserted through the eyelets in the ends of the bows C C &c. The
ends of the springs E that have projected beyond the outer surface of the upright
spring strips A A to which the bows C C &c. are to be pivotally secured each are
bent upwardly, close to the spring, attachment thereto is effected by the clips g which
clasp these extremities of the springs upon the side strips.
It will be seen that this method of construction will afford a secure pivotal
connection of the spring strips A and from the peculiar location and attachment of
the spiral springs E their torsional strength will resist a folding action of the
bows CC&c. so that they will be returned to a normal extended position if
compressed or folded by the wearer assuming a sitting or reclining position.
The projection of the spring bows C C &c. in a greater or less degree is accom-
plished by drawing the side strips more or less toward each other and thus securing
them by the tie strings or tapes d d these being attached by one end of each to the
side strips A A their other ends being tied together as shown.
"
wave
"
The modified form of construction of the bustle is shown in Fig. 3 the spring
bows CC&c. are pivoted through their eyelets to the lower ends of the side strips A A
by inserting tubular shanks through these eyelets and securing them as pivots by
turning the ends over to produce retaining flanges thus providing a hinge joint on
each lower end of the side strips for all the spring bows these bows being retained
spaced apart by the tape or flexible band D. A flat elastic spring E bent in
form is secured by its upper end i to the elastic top strip B near to the centre of length
of the latter the wave spring E being attached to the lower bow spring by the same
fastening that secures the spacing tape or band D the tension of this bent spring from
its position holds the series of bow springs C C¹ &c. spaced apart when the bustle is
not subjected to collapsing pressure.
The elastic nature of the side strips A A, and curved top spring strip B affords a
yielding connection of the bustle to the person of the wearer so that discomfort
incidental to bustles with rigid frames is thus avoided, and it will be seen that this
provision is common to both styles of collapsible bustle shown in preferred and
modified form in the drawings.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed 1 declare that what
I claim is :-
1. A bustle provided with yielding side strips and a curved yielding metal top
strip secured by its ends to the side strips substantially as set forth.

page_text: 2. A bustle adapted to have its bows held extended by spiral springs which also
form pivots for these bows substantially as set forth.
3. A bustle provided with a series of pivoted spring bows and a wave spring to
hold its spring bows extended and permit these bows to be folded substantially as
set forth.
4. The combination with two elastic side strips made of metal and covered with a
fibrous material, of an elastic metal top strip which has a fibrous cover that also forms
a securing band for the bustle substantially as set forth.
5. The combination with two elastic side strips, an elastic top strip and a fibrous
band that envelopes the top strips and extends beyond it as a flexible band of a series
of spring bows, pivoted by their ends to the lower ends of the side strips, a spacing
tape, and a wave bent flat spring substantially as set forth.
6. The combination with two elastic metallic side strips, an elastic metallic top
strip that is adapted to conform to the curvature of the wearer's body and a flexible
band that envelopes the top strip and extends beyond its ends, of a set or series of
spring bows which are pivotally secured to the lower end of the elastic side strips a
spacing tape and a spring for holding the bows in their expanded or opened condition
substantially as set forth.
7. The combination with two elastic side strips, spring connected at their top ends,
of a set of spring bows, and two spiral springs adapted to form pivotal connections
between the side strips and spring bows, and also by torsional strength of their spring
coils yieldingly hold the spring bows apart substantially as set forth.
8. The combination with two elastic metal side strips, an elastic metal top strip
and a series of spring bows, of a spacing tape and a wave bent flat metallic spring
that is secured by its ends to the top spring and bottom bow spring substantially as
set forth.
9. The combination with two elastic metal side strips that are adapted to yield side
wise, a flat metal spring secured by its ends to the upper ends of the side strips,
both the side strips and the top strip being covered with a fibrous material and a
flexible band secured upon the top spring strip so as to have its ends extend beyond
the ends of the top strip of a series of bow springs pivoted by their ends to the side
strips at their lower ends a spacing tape secured at spaced points in its length to
the middle points of the bow springs, a flat wave spring secured upon the inner
surface of the top and lower bow springs near their centre and a cord or tape to
regulate the degree of curvature of the bow springs substantially as set forth.
10. The combination with two side strips that yield flatwise, a curved top spring
strip and a flexible band, of a series of spring bows provided with eyelets at their
ends, two spiral springs that each have an end inserted through the eyelets of the
bow springs and holes in the lower ends of the side strips to pivot them together
these ends of the spiral springs being secured to the side strips, the other ends of the
spiral springs extending to engage the side surface of the lower spring bow to hold it
depressed, a spacing tape secured to the spring bows, and another tape or tie string
attached to the side strips to afford a means for adjusting the projecting curvature of
the bow springs substantially as set forth.
Dated this 2nd day of March 1888.