Improvements in Embroidery Machines.
Year: 1891

page_text: Date of Application, 31st July, 1891
Complete Specification Left, 2nd May, 1892-Accepted, 9th July, 1892
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Embroidery Machines.
I, EDOUARD WATTIER, of 5 Rue Mazagran, Paris in the Republic of France,
Civil Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to that class of embroidery machines known as the Bonnaz
type, and the object of the present improvements is to render such machines capable
of producing embroidery, with gimp cords or threads of varied colors, on both sides
of a fabric simultaneously, and also of producing the class of embroidery known as
the feather stitch, which is ordinarily used for lace and glove work, and thereby
enlarge the scope of the machines.
In the present instance, the invention is applied to the machine for which a
Patent has been granted, No. 13121 of 1889, to Jules Mathieu, and the improve-
ments consist in the addition to such machines, of rotatory mechanism carrying
bobbins of gimp cord or thread placed under the table of the machine, actuated
from the motor shaft of the machine, and. also in a combination of clutch
gearing which will allow of the direction, of rotation of the bobbins of gimp
thread carried above the table of such machines, to be instantly reversed, during
the making of a stitch,, so as to obtain, the feather stitch.
In carrying out these improvements, 'I mount below the table of the machine,
a chain wheel carrying bobbins upon which are wound the threads to be twisted
together to form the gimp on the under side of the fabric. Through this chain
wheel are formed holes for the passage of the threads from the bobbins to a
point near the throat or needle hole. Rotary motion is given to this chain wheel
from the motor shaft of the machine through worm, and chain. gearing, and when
the bobbin-carrying mechanism mounted above the table of the machine in the
manner described in the above mentioned. Patent, and that mounted below the table
of the machine, are simultaneously in motion, the threads of the bobbins respectively
above and below the table will be twisted together, the one group of threads on the
face, of the work, and the other on the under side, and both twisted gimp cords
will be attached to the work by the same chain stitch, in the manner described in
the above mentioned Patent, and thus will be formed,, on both sides of the fabric,
embroidery, which, will be exactly similar in appearance.
The feather stitch for lace or glove work is produced, by throwing the bobbin
carrying mechanism mounted, below the table, out of action, and by changing, from
time: to, time, the direction, of the feed. The horizontal feed-governing shaft of
the,machine is provided with a short sleeve running loose thereon, and having bevil
wheels at its opposite ends. This sleeve is slidden on, the shaft by suitable means,
so, as to bring one or other of the bevil wheels into gear with bevil wheel carried
on the top of the vertical shaft, which communicates rotary motion to the bobbin
carrying mechanism, and thereby reverse the direction of this shaft, as required.
The sleeve carries a pinion intermediate of the bevil wheels, which gears with, and
receives, rotary motion from a pinion keyed on the motor shaft.
If desired, a similar combination of gearing may be applied to the under bobbin
carrying mechanism, for a like purpose.
Dated this 31st day of July 1891.
NEWTON & SON,.
Agents for the Applicant.

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Embroidery Machines.
I, EDOUARD WATTIER of 5 Rue Mazagran, Paris, in the Republic of France,
Civil Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement :-
All embroidery machines hitherto known, embroider the fabric upon one face
only, which prevents their employment for making curtains of muslin or tulle lace
and heavy furniture, where it is necessary that both faces should be embroidered.
It is, then, in order to accomplish this result, that I have improved the
embroidery machines of the class Bonnaz, Cornely, and Mathieu.
These improvements enable me to obtain braiding on both sides, the braid
being fixed by an invisible chain stitch on both sides of the fabric. In braiding
the upper face, the middle threads, which come from the upper bobbins, are
twisted together, and wrapped round, in an inverse sense, by the threads of the
lower bobbins.
The said improvements consist:-
:-
(a.) In the adding of certain mechanism governed by the motive power shaft, and
placed below the table of the machine, to produce braiding on the under face (double-
face) of the fabric.
(b.) In the substitution for the vertical tubes traversed by the needle bar
(shewn in the machine at Fig. 1), of a series of revolving tubes in which pass the
threads intended to form the upper braiding. With these tubes, the lower bobbins"
and their thread guides may be omitted, which will permit of the employment of a
very small feeding foot, thus enabling the workman easily to follow his work as it
is being made.
The bobbins are, in this case, placed at the upper part of the machine, and receive
their rotary motion from a central tube actuated by a lower central pinion. The
above improvements can be applied to a machine arranged for making the braid
on both sides of the fabric, either stuffed or not stuffed.
In order to clearly comprehend these improvements in embroidery and braiding
machines, I have represented them (by way of specimen) in the drawings annexed,
in which
Figure 1 shews a machine for embroidering on both sides, carrying the old
vertical tubes, and of which the threads are twisted together, and simultaneously
(as well above as below) to produce braiding either stuffed or not stuffed.
Figure 2 shews an elevation of the head of the machine, furnished with
revolving tubes, and mechanism which actuates them for making braiding on both
sides (de la ganse a double face), which are shewn in section, in order that their
adjustment the one within the other may be clearly seen.
Figure 3 is a horizontal section, on an enlarged scale, taken on the line 1. 2 of
Fig. 2.
Figure 4 is a horizontal section, on an enlarged scale, taken on the line 3. 4 of
Fig. 2.
Figure 5 is a vertical section, on a still larger scale, shewing the threads or cords
interlaced to form the double-faced braided work, and the mode of attachment to
the fabric by the same chain stitch.
Figure 6 shews the head of a machine furnished with revolving or turning tubes,
and the lower bobbins for obtaining a new kind of braid, of which the middle
threads are twisted together, and wrapped round by those of the lower bobbins.
Figure 7 shews the same machine with a modification of the driving gearing;
and,
Figures 8 and 9 shew the stitch detached, and in plan, obtained by means of
the machine represented at Figs. 6 & 7.

page_text: To obtain double face embroidery, that is to say, to attach, by the same invisible
chain stitch, two braids', (see Fig. 5), each one composed of several threads
twisted automatically and simultaneously by the machine, the one above and the
other under the fabric W, the said braids being either of the same or of different
colours, I employ the mechanism hereinafter described.
To the spurwheel A (see Fig. 1), placed under the table a of the machine, I
attach supports B, carrying the bobbins C. upon which are wound the threads C
which twist automatically to form the braid, which is attached under the
fabric.
The rotary movement is given to these hobbins by the wheel A, which is
operated by the endless chain D gearing with the wheel E, keyed upon the
vertical shaft F, which receives its motion from the driving shaft G¹ through
the intermediation of the skew wheels H and I.
I can replace, in this machine, the vertical tubes by a series of turning tubes,
which will allow the bobbins J J' to be taken off, when it is desired to obtain braid
like that indicated at Figure 5.
In this modification, A2 (Fig. 2) is the tube carrying presser nozzle, slotted at a',
and capable of a rising and falling movement, given by the piece a², which receives
the movement from cams and levers placed behind the plate covering the head of
the machine. It is also capable of a rotary motion given by the pinion G²
through the screw passing through its socket, which draws the tubes B³ and C³,
and gives motion to the upper bobbins.
E² is
D is a tube upon which are fixed the parts giving rotary motion to the needle
bar F. It is furnished with a feather f². This tube is mounted loosely around
the tubes B2 and C2, and receives rotary motion through the mitre pinions 5. 6,
which are driven by means of the operating handle underneath the table.
another tube serving to transmit to the needle bar F2, the rising and falling motion
which is given to it by the piece e², which receives its motion from cams mounted
on the driving shaft K².
The rising and falling movement of the needle bar F2 is obtained by arranging
a slot or groove f³ in the tube E³, in which works the feather of the tube D³.
Upon, the tube E2 is a bracket H2, carrying a socket h2, which serves as guide
to the needle bar F2, where it is maintained by the screw h³. Above and upon the
tube B2 is attached a bobbin carriage 12, carrying a number of bobbins 2. The
tension of the threads is regulated by the springs. The threads 2, 2 pass down
the grooves c³, c formed in the whole length of the tube C2, and they issue out
by the holes d² d² of the presser nozzle J.
The
Having described the mechanism as a whole, I will now describe its action.
driving shaft K (Fig. 2) rotates the pinion G2 through the wheels l², m², n², o³, p², q².
The pinion G2, which carries the socket G³, through which is passed the screw b², draws,
in its motion, the nozzle A² and the tubes B2 C2 operating the upper bobbins ³, 12.
While this rotary movement, which twists the threads x, x takes place, the
tube A2, carrying the nozzle J, under the influence of the forked piece a², presses
the fabric upon the table, while the needle o³ descends under the action of the
piece, pierces the fabric to take the loop of the chain (which ties down the braid
upon both sides of the fabric W above and below) and rises again. At this moment
the tube A rises, and the feeding or presser foot feeds the work.
As indicated in the drawings at Figs. 2 & 6, the tension of the threads can
be regulated by the washers j³ ³, by compressing more or less the springs
While the upper braid z is made as above described, the lower braid will be
simultaneously made by the mechanism before named, and attached underneath the
fabric W by the same chain stitch *, as shewn at Figure 5.
If it is desired to make the upper braid in a double braided fabric, like that shewn
at Figures 8 and 9, that is to say, having the middle threads a twisted together,
and wrapped round in the opposite direction by one or several threads 2, the
mechanism shewn at Figures 6 and 7 is made use of, which is similar to that in the
preceding machine, except that the wheel G², which carries the lower bobbins M³,

page_text: is of greater diameter, and driven direct by the pinion p². In this case, the socket. G³
of the wheel G2 is of less length, and the rotary movement of the tubes BC, in
place of being given by the pinion G2, is obtained by the use of the pinions 1, 2, 3, 4, o
and 2. To this end, the pinion 1 carries a long sleeve 5*, shrunk. on the tube
carrying the nozzle A². I can, equally, as a modincation of Fig. 6, employ the
mechanism represented at Fig. 7, where the bevel pinions 1, 2, 3, 4, are replaced by
the spur pinions 9. 10. 11, by modifying the bracket 12. The action of this
mechanism is the same as described for the preceding machine, the bobbins M² M²
turning simultaneously in the opposite direction to the upper bobbins and they are
operated by the spur gearing G2, p², Figure 6 (or G2, 2, 3, Figure 7); the upper
bobbins being rotated by the pinions 1, 2, Figure 6, or by the spur pinions 9, 10, 11
of Figure 7.
The number of grooves ³ ³ (Figures 3 and 4) will be varied according to the
number of the upper bobbins 2 22.
If I wish to make the upper braid of a double braided. fabric stuffed,. I adapt,
to the end of the tube C2, (Fig. 2), a socket bobbin carrier, upon the bobbins of
which are wound the stuffing threads. In this case, the needle bar F is tubular
(as in Fig. 1) for the passage of the stuffing threads. I can also modify the propor-
tions of the pinions 1, 2, 3, 4, 9, 10, 11, and the spur wheels G3, 2, 2, according as
it may be desired to attach two, three, or a greater number of threads for each
stroke of the needle.
may also replace the bevel wheels 1, 2, 3, 4, by the spur
wheels 9, 10, 11, Fig. 7.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed,. I declare that what I'
claim is :-
The improvements in embroidery machines as herein, shewn and described, by
means of which (1) I obtain several kinds of cords or braids on both. faces. of
the fabric, as set forth; (2) I produce these various braidings stuffed, or not, stuffed,
as set forth..
CA
1000
NEWTON & SON,
Agents for the Applicant.