Improvements in Hollow Hem and the like Ornamental Stitch Sewing Machines.
Year: 1897

page_text: Date of Application, 5th Nov., 1897
Complete Specification Left, 21st July, 1898-Accepted, 8th Oct., 1898
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Hollow Hem and the like Ornamental Stitch
Sewing Machines.
I, KARL FRIEDRICH GEGAUF, of Steckborn, in the Republic of Switzerland, Machine
Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows :—
In hollow hem sewing machines as hitherto made, which have one or more borers,
the borer or borers are fixed relative to the needles, that is to say they are mounted
with the needles in a common bar so that both needles and borers are firmly
connected with one another, always perforate the material simultaneously, and
are drawn also simultaneously upwards out of the same. In the hollow hem
sewing machine which forms the object of the present invention, and which has
two needles and a borer arranged between the same, the borer is not firmly fixed as
regards the needles, but is separately movable, being mounted on a separate borer
bar which is moved independently of the needle bar so that movement of the borer
takes place independently of the movement of the needles.
Such a hollow hem sewing machine is shown in the accompanying drawings,
as an example,
Figure 1 being a front elevation of the machine;
Figure 2 a plan view with the bed plate omitted;
Figure 3 a side view partially in section on the line x-x of Figure 1;
Figures 4, 5 and 6 show the needle bar and the two needles with the needle
carriers removed from the needle bar.
Figures 4, 5 and 6ª are plan views of the same;
Figure 7 shows a front view of the borer with the borer bar;
Figure 8 a side view;
Figure 9 shows a side view of the borer;
Figure 10 a horizontal section on the line y-y of Figure 9;
Figures 11, 12 and 13 show the needles and the borer in three different positions
of action;
Figure 14 is a plan view of the presser foot.
The present machine is in its general construction like a longitudinal shuttle
sewing machine, the shuttles of which are moved in the same direction. The
needles n n arranged on both sides of the separately movable borer bare laterally
adjustable in such a way that they may be arranged to stand away from the borer or
rather parallel with one another in one working position, whilst in other working
positions they may penetrate the material whilst approached to the borer and
converging downwards towards one another. As a fact, between each two successive
movements or adjustments of the material, there take place three stitches, two with
the needles approached to the borer (converging) in immediate succession and
immediately before the movement of the material (for forming the inner hem stitch),
and one stitch with the needles standing away for the purpose of producing the
lateral outer stitch, which latter insertion falls at a suitable time as regards the
movement of the material between the two stitches with the needles approached.

page_text: Lever
The needle bar N is provided at its lower end with a rectangular shaped projection n
at the sides of which discs n³ n are arranged. These discs as may be seen in the
plan view in Figure 4^, are a little displaced one in front of the other.
arms m² m² are pivotally or revolubly mounted on the discs by means of head screws mº,
and are provided with suitable discs m³ me, and the needles n¹ n² are firmly clamped on
the said lever arms by means of clamp screws m. The borer b is mounted on a ɛeparate
borer bar B which is inserted in the machine head A¹ in proximity to the needle bar and
vertically movable. This borer is of oval elongated form and is mounted by a
support arm 63 bent at right angles to the borer and formed in one piece with the
same, which support arm is fixed by means of a clamp screw 6 to the bar B.
The arrangement is such that the needles and the borers stand in proximity to
one another in such a way that there is a needle at each side of the borer.
A partition P lying between the races of the shuttles S1 S2 which work in
conjunction with the needles n' n² is reduced. to a thin bar and provided at the
point where the needles are inserted in the material beneath the borer with a
recess or groove p¹ p² at each side, of which the one p¹ is open to the race s¹
of the shuttle S₁ and serves for receiving the needle n¹ when perforating the
material, whilst the other p2 is open to the race 82 of the shuttle S2 and serves
for receiving the needle 2 when perforating the material (Figure 15).
Corresponding to this construction of the partition, or rather to the mutual
position of the said recesses, the needles and borer do not stand precisely in a
row side by side or behind one another, but one of the needles n¹ stands somewhat
behind and the other, n², a little in front of the central plane of the borer, as may
be seen more particularly in Figure 10, in which in addition to the cross section of
the borer the position of the needles is shown in dotted lines.
The borer has also a groove or channel 61 62 on each side facing the needles, which
grooves serve for guiding the respective needles when perforating the material in
such a way that the needles travel in the grooves when perforating and laterally
widen the hole formed by the borer. These grooves are formed to suit the position
of the needles opposite one another, that is to say they are somewhat displaced from
the central plane of the borer, as is clearly seen also in Figure 10.
The movement of the borer har takes place entirely independently of that of the
needle bar which is moved in the manner customary in sewing machines by means
of a crank disc k mounted on the driving shaft w which crank disc engages with a
pin k in a cam piece 2 mounted on the needle bar, the cam groove 3 of which cam
piece is so formed that the pin or stud in its movement moves the cam piece
vertically and thereby the bar N in its guides in the head plate A¹ (Figure 1).
The borer bar B on the other hand receives its movement through an oscillating
arm 1, Figure 3, mounted on a side shaft w2, which arm engaging in a suitable
slot or recess 6º in the bar B imparts to the latter in its oscillation a vertical move-
ment in its bearings in the head plate A¹. The shaft w2 which has at one end the
arm has at its other end an arm with a roller 2 which is within reach of an
eccentric (Figure 1) mounted beside the hand wheel on the shaft w, which eccentric
in its rotation swings the arm 1, thus turning the shaft w² and arm downwards,
which in turn moves the bar B vertically downwards. The upward movement takes
place by the action of a spiral spring which is mounted on the upper end of the
bar and is stretched by the downward movement of the same. The movement of
the borer and the needles takes place in such a way that the borer first enters the
material and then the needles penetrate the latter, the borer which is still in the
material remaining stationary whilst the needles descend in the borer grooves and
widen laterally the hole formed by the borer. The needles thus on their penetrating
the material can neither displace nor tear the same as the material is retained by the
presser foot and also by the still stationary borer. After the penetration of the
needles has taken place the borer and the needles are again moved upwards but in
this movement however the borer leaves the material before the needles so that the
threads of the shuttles have a completely free course and the knotting or binding

page_text: can proceed free and unimpededly, which is a very essential advantage of the present
forin of construction.
The adjustment of the needle and the respective oscillation of the needle
levers m¹ m² is effected by means of a push rod mounted on the arm of the machine
consisting of two horizontally guided bars 05 0, the latter of which bears against
a crown cam O arranged on a wheel and is lifted by the said cam, whilst the other
bar 05 is moved always in an opposite direction to the direction of movement of the
bar o by a lever ol 02 pivotally mounted on the machine arm, the said lever having
a pin o at each end which engages in a suitable block 03 o mounted on the bars 05 0.
The movement of the bar of to the right and the movement of the bar of to the left
is thus effected by means of the cam whilst movement in the opposite directions
takes place by the action of a spiral spring o' mounted on the bar 06. The push
rods are guided at one end in lugs 08 and at the other end in lugs 0° and engage,
with their front, ends, bars m³ and me which are inserted with their lower ends in
suitable lugs formed on the needle bars m² m² and pass through suitable holes of
the push bars.
The lever arms are swung in opposite directions by the push bars 05 0 and the
rods m5 m in such a way that either the needles are approached to the borer (resting
against the same as shown in Figures 11 and 12) or are moved from the same
(standing parallel or approximately parallel to the same) as shown in Figure 13.
The wheel has three times the number of teeth of the wheel r so that at each
third rotation of the latter, and three stitches of the needles, a revolution of the
cain O and one single to and fro movement of the push bars and thereby one single
lateral adjustinent of the needles takes place according to the process of working
previously described.
The shifting of the material (adjustment of the material) may be effected in any
suitable manner for instance by a roughened conveyor Q which is operated by a
suitable ratchet device. The presser foot d mounted on the bar D has an inclined
stitch hole d¹ to correspond to the position of the needles and the borer, beside which
there is preferably an elongated hole for inspection of the piece of material last
operated on. The attachment of the needle threads to the shuttle threads takes
place in the ordinary manner. In the present invention the shuttles S1 S2 lie in
carriers t t which are moved to and fro in any suitable manner, for instance by
means of push rods on a differential cain or crank mounted on the shaft w'.
Dated this 4th day of November 1897.
WM. P. THOMPSON & Co.,
Of 6, Lord Street, Liverpool, Agents for the Applicant.
Improvements in Hollow Hem and the like Ornamental Stitch
Sewing Machines.
L KARL FRIEDRICH GEGAUF, of Steckborn, in the Republic of Switzerland,
Machine Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention, and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in
and by the following statement :—
In hollow hem sewing machines as hitherto made, which have one or more borers,
the borer or borers are fixed relative to the needles, that is to say they are mounted
with the needles in a common bar so that both needles and borers are firmly
connected with one another, always perforate the material simultaneously, and are
drawn also simultaneously upwards out of the same. In the hollow hem sewing
machine which forms the object of the present invention, and which has two needles

page_text: and a borer arranged between the same, the borer is not firmly fixed as regards the
needles, but is separately movable and has a channel on each side facing the needles
so that the latter when making a stitch slide down the channels of the borers and
widen laterally the hole formed by the horer.
Such a hollow hem sewing machine is shown in the drawings accompanying the
Provisional Specification, as an example :-
-
Figure 1 being a front elevation of the machine
Figure 2 a plan view with the bed plate omitted;
;
Figure 3 a side view partially in section on the line x-x of Figure 1;
Figures 4, 5 and 6 show the needle bar and the two needles with the needle
carriers removed from the needle bar.
Figures 4, 5 and 64 are plan views of the same;
Figure 7 shows a front view of the borer with the borer bar;
Figure 8 a side view ;
Figure 9 shows a side view of the borer;
Figure 10 a horizontal section on the line y-y of Figure 9;
Figures 11, 12 and 13 show the needles and the borer in three different positions
of action;
Figure 14 is a plan view of the presser foot.
The present machine is in its general construction like a longitudinal shuttle
sewing machine, the shuttles of which are moved in the same direction. The
needles ¹n arranged on both sides of the separately movable borer bare laterally
adjustable in such a way that they may be arranged to stand away from the borer
or rather parallel with one another in one working position, whilst in other working
positions they may penetrate the material whilst approached to the borer and
converging downwards towards one another. As a fact, between each two successive
movements or adjustments of the material, there take place three stitches, two with
the needles approached to the borer (converging) in immediate succession and
immediately before the movement of the material (for forming the inner hem stitch),
and one stitch with the needles standing away for the purpose of producing the
lateral outer stitch, which latter insertion falls at a suitable time as regards the
movement of the material between the two stitches with the needles approached.
The needle bar N is provided at its lower end with a rectangular shaped projection
n at the sides of which discs n³ nt are arranged. These discs as may be seen in the
plan view in Figure 4 are a little displaced one in front of the other. Lever arms
m1 m² are pivotally or revolubly mounted on the discs by means of head screws mº,
and are provided with suitable discs m3 m², and the needles n' n² are firmly clamped
on the said lever arms by means of clamp screws m. The borer b is mounted on a
separate borer bar B which is inserted in the machine head A¹ in proximity to the
needle bar and vertically movable. This borer is of oval elongated form and is
mounted by a support arın 63 bent at right angles to the borer and formed in one
piece with the same, which support arm is fixed by means of a clamp screw b* to the
bar B. The arrangement is such that the needles and the borers stand in proximity
to one another in such a way that there is a needle at each side of the borer.
partition Plying between the races of the shuttles S¹ S² which work in conjunction
with the needles n¹ n2 is reduced to a thin bar and provided at the point where the
needles are inserted in the material beneath the borer, with a recess or groove pl p
at each side, of which the one p¹ is open to the race s¹ of the shuttle S¹ and serves
for receiving the needle n¹ when perforating the material, whilst the other p² is open
to the race 82 of the shuttle S2 and serves for receiving the needle n² when perforating
the material (Figure 15).
A
Corresponding to this construction of the partition, or rather to the mutual
position of the said recesses, the needles and borer do not stand precisely in a row
side by side or behind one another, but one of the needles n¹ stands somewhat
behind and the other n² a little in front of the central plane of the borer, as may be
seen more particularly in Figure 10, in which in addition to the cross section of the
borer the position of the needles is shown in dotted lines.

page_text: The borer has also a groove or channel 61 62 on each side facing the needles, which
grooves serve for guiding the respective needles when perforating the material in
such a way that the needles travel in the grooves when perforating and laterally
widen the hole formed by the borer. These grooves are formed to suit the position
of the needles opposite one another, that is to say they are somewhat displaced from
the central plane of the borer, as is clearly seen also in Figure 10.
The movement of the borer bar takes place entirely independently of that of the
needle bar which is moved in the manner customary in sewing machines by means of a
crank disc k mounted on the driving shaft w which crank disc engages with a pin k¹
in a cam piece k² mounted on the needle bar, the can groove of which cam piece
is so formed that the pin or stud in its movement moves the cam piece vertically and
thereby the bar N in its guides in the head plate A¹ (Figure 1).
The borer bar B on the other hand receives its movement through an oscillating
arm, Figure 3, mounted on a side shaft w, which arm engaging in a suitable slot
し
or recess 6° in the bar B imparts to the latter in its oscillation a vertical movement
in its bearings in the head plate A¹. The shaft w which has at one end the arm
has at its other end an arın with a roller which is within reach of an eccentric (³
(Figure 1) mounted beside the handwheel on the shaft w, which eccentric in its
rotation swings the arm A, thus turning the shaft w² and arin & downwards, which in
turn moves the bar B vertically downwards. The upward movement takes place by
the action of a spiral spring A, which is mounted on the upper end of the bar and
is compressed by the downward movement of the same. The movement of the borer
and the needles takes place in such a way that the borer first enters the material and
then the needles penetrate the latter, the borer which is still in the material
remaining stationary whilst the needles descend in the borer grooves and widen
laterally the hole formed by the borer. The needles thus on their penetrating the
material can neither displace nor tear the same, as the material is retained by
the presser foot and also by the still stationary borer. After the penetration of the
needles has taken place the borer and the needles are again moved upwards but in
this movement however the borer leaves the material before the needles so that the
threads of the shuttles have a completely free course and the knotting or binding
can proceed free and unimpededly, which is a very essential advantage of the present
form of construction.
The adjustment of the needle and the respective oscillation of the needle
levers m¹ m² is effected by means of a push rod mounted on the arm of the machine
consisting of two horizontally guided bars 05 06, the latter of which of bears against
a crown cam O arranged on a wheel and is slid forward by the said cam, whilst
the other bar o5 is moved always in an opposite direction to the direction of move-
ment of the bar of by a lever o¹ 02 pivotally mounted on the machine arm, the said
lever having a pin o at each end which engages in a suitable block o³ of mounted
on the bars o 08. The movement of the bar o to the right and the movement of
the bar o to the left is thus effected by means of the cam 0, whilst movement in
the opposite directions takes place by the action of a spiral spring of mounted
on the bar o. The push rods are guided at one end in lugs 08 and at the other end
in lugs and engage, with their front ends, bars m and me which are inserted
with their lower ends in suitable lugs formed on the needle bars m³ m² and pass
through suitable holes of the push bars.
The lever arms are swung in opposite directions by the push bars 05 06 and the
rods m m in such a way that either the needles are approached to the borer
(resting against the same as shown in Figures 11 and 12) or are moved from the
same (standing parallel or approximately parallel to the same) as shown in
Figure 13.
The wheel 1 has three times the number of teeth of the wheel so that at
each third rotation of the latter, and three stitches of the needles, a revolution of
the cam and one single to and fro movement of the push bars and thereby one
single lateral adjustment of the needles takes place according to the process of
working previously described.

page_text: The shifting of the material (adjustment of the material) may be effected in any
suitable manner, for instance by a roughened conveyor Q which is operated by a
suitable ratchet device. The presser foot d mounted on the bar D has an inclined
stitch hole d¹ to correspond to the position of the needles and the borer, beside
which there is preferably an elongated hole d² for inspection of the piece of material
last operated on. The attachment of the needle threads to the shuttle threads takes
place in the ordinary manner. In the present invention the shuttles S¹ S2 lie in
carriers which are moved to and fro in any suitable manner, for instance by
means of push rods on a differential cam or crank mounted on the shaft wi.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is
1. In hollow hem ornamental stitch sewing machines, a borer in combination
with two needles, which borer is arranged between the needles and is separately
movable from them and which has a channel on each side facing the needles, which
channels serve for guiding the respective needles so that the needles when making
a stitch slide down the channels of the borers and widen laterally the hole formed
by the borer, substantially as described.
2. In hollow hem and the like ornamental stitch sewing machines with two
needles and a borer arranged between the needles and having guide grooves for the
needles; placing the needles in such a way that they are somewhat displaced
from the central plane of the borer (one standing somewhat in front and the other
behind) whilst, correspondingly, the guide grooves of the borer are themselves some-
what displaced from the central plane of the same, substantially as described.
3. In hollow hem and the like ornamental stitch sewing machines with two
needles; a borer arranged between the needles and having two lateral grooves dis-
placed from the central plane of the borer in such a way that one groove stands
obliquely to the other in the feed direction and that a needle can lie in each groove
before the forcing apart of the longitudinal threads of the material has taken place
and also on the lateral binding of the same, whilst borer and needles together dis-
place to right and left the longitudinal threads of the material substantially as
herein before described.
Thatod this 20th day of Tuly 1898
WM. P. THOMPSON & Co.,
Of 6, Lord Street, Liverpool, Agents for the Applicant.