IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES
Year: 1854

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Auguste Edouard Loradoux Bellford, of 16, Castle
Street, Holborn (City), London, Patent Agent, for the Invention of
"IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES."-A communication.
Sealed the 3rd October 1854, and dated the 6th April 1854.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Auguste Edouard Loradoux
Bellford at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition,
on the 6th April 1854.
I, AUGUSTE EDOUARD LORADOUX BELLFORD, of 16, Castle Street, Holborn
(City), London, Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature of the said
Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES " to be as follows, viz. :-
The improvements consist of a machine for sewing longitudinally or hori-
zontally by the use of a cylinder or other suitable means; also in an
arrangement for binding the material; a method of working a shuttle or
thread carrier by means of a moveable cradle or other suitable contrivance,
to dispense with the use of a shuttle race; a system of tension by means of
friction on the thread, caused by winding round a cylinder, or over and under
projections arranged for that purpose; a double foot or yielding plate, com-
posed of two or more pieces, and operated by a spring, so as to rest on
material of unequal thickness; also, a single foot having a projecting arm or
arms; also, a foot or step, constructed to rest on one or both sides of a material
to be sewn, or on one or both sides of a raised surface; a tubular thread
carrier; the use of a cop in a shuttle or thread carrier; an arrangement for
winding the cop; the use of a single thread stitch, formed by passing a loop of
the thread through the material, then holding it till the needle has formed a
second loop; the first loop is then put through the second loop, the needle
[Price 8d.1

page_text: recedes, and again puts a third loop through the first loop, and so on; a
system of feeding by means of points or a notched bar, the material being held
in place while the feeder moves back by lifting rods; or a means of feeding
by points, or a notched bar on the upper side, having forward, upward, and
receding motion, or feeding laterally at every second or any other stitch; the
needles are grooved on both sides; there are guides or a guide to sew in any
required line by the use of a point or points; also, in the preparation of
lubricating matter, to render the thread more serviceable, and the receptacle
for containing the same; in a lever for lifting and sustaining the foot rod; in
adjusting the spools on points and sockets; in the connection of needle to
needle bar; an arrangement for cording or covering cord; the employment of
more than two needles or their equivalents, and also of more than two threads;
and an arrangement for taking up the slack of the under thread.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Auguste Edouard Loradoux Bellford in the Great Seal
Patent Office on the 5th October 1854.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, AUGUSTE
EDOUARD LOBADOUX BELLFORD, of 16, Castle Street, Holborn, City, London,
Patent Agent, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Sixth day of April, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and fifty-four, in the seventeenth year of Her reign,
did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto ine, the said
Auguste Edouard Loradoux Bellford, Her special licence that I, the said
Auguste Edouard Loradoux Bellford,myexecutors, administrators,andassigns,
or such others as I, the said Auguste Edouard Loradoux Bellford, my execu-
tors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others,
from time to time and at all times thereafter during the term therein
expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within
the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands,
and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES,"
a communication from Grover & Baker, Boston, U. S. A., upon the con-
dition (amongst others) that I, the said Auguste Edouard Loradoux Bellford,
by an instrument in writing under my hand and seal, should particularly
describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner
the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great

page_text: Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately after
the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Auguste Edouard Loradoux Bellford,
do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement: -
This Invention consists of a series of improvements applicable to sewing
machines, and chiefly to an Invention entitled "Improvements in Machinery
or Apparatus for Sewing," patented by William Edward Newton, on the
Nineteenth day of October, in the year of our Lord One thousand eight
hundred and fifty-two.
In order that the present improvements may be at once clearly understood,
I shall describe them separately hereafter, with reference to the annexed Sheet
of Drawings.
The first of the present improvements consists of a new arrangement of
machinery for making the longitudinal seams of cylindrical or conical bag or
hose-like articles, such as boot legs, trowsers legs, &. For this purpose I
use, instead of the platform described in William Edward Newton's Patent,
above mentioned, a hollow cylinder or cylindrical body which contains the
motions described in said Patent. The feeding motion differs from the one
described in the Patent alluded to only by its position, for it causes the fabric
to travel longitudinally with respect to the cylinder, which is obtained by
changing the shape of the cam which directs this motion.
Fig. 1 of the annexed Sheet of Drawings represents the improved sewing
machine in longitudinal section through the centre of the driving shaft.
Fig. 2 is an end view of the cylinder. In order to facilitate comparison
with the patent improvements above alluded to, I shall indicate in these
improvements by the same letters of reference those parts which are already
existing in the same or in a different forin in the sewing machine to which
said Patent relates. a is the cylinder or half round body, upon which the
cylindrical article is passed, for the purpose of sewing it up longitudinally.
In the interior of this cylindrical or half round part are lodged similar pieces
to those described in the Patent above alluded to, viz., s is the lever for the
feed motion; in this arrangement the fulcrum & is not at the end, as in the
sewing machine above alluded to, but at the middle of the lever. In this
arrangement also the circumferential cam æ, which in said machine is made
to act upon the bell crank lever y, is replaced by a cam acting endways.
Owing to these modifications, the feeding motion of the notched bar s¹ is per-
formed at right angles to that performed in the machine above alluded to, the

page_text: motion being in this case directed from the end of the cynnder towards the
pulley a¹, or the pillar on which the cylinder is fixed or secured. It will be
obvious that this cylindrical body a' may be modified in a variety of ways, so
as to be most suitable for the article to be worked upon; the main feature of
this part of the present improvements consisting in the use of a casing or
cylindrical body freely supported, in such manner that it may be freely wrapt
up with the material, which is sewn up in a cylindrical hose or bag-like
shape.
The second of the present improvements consists in so shaping the machine
as to be able to form transversal scams upon cylindrical articles, as above
exemplified.
in
Fig. 3 is an oblique or diagonal orthographic projection of the way
which I prefer carrying into effect this part of the present improvements,
by modifying the platform of the machine above alluded to. This modifica-
tion only applies to the platform of the machine, which is cut out longitudi-
nally at e, e, on both sides of the shaft, this latter being encased in a
cylindrical or round shell below the platform. The only alteration in the
feed apparatus used for this machine, as compared with that alluded to, is not
the nature but the quantity of curvature of the actuating cam. This cam is
so shaped as to cause the notched bars to describe a path, the base of which
a, b, Fig. 4, is more or less inclined to the plane of the platform, instead of
being horizontal, as in common platform machines alluded to. This inclined
motion becomes necessary on account of want of space on the modified plat-
form, and is obtained by making the cam tolerably sharp. By inserting the
plates e¹, e¹, in the recesses e, c¹, the platform may be converted into an
ordinary continuous one.
The third of the present improvements consists of a guide for binding the
fabric or material.
Fig. 5 shews an end view of this guide; and Fig. 6, a plan. This guide
differs from the one described in William Edward Newton's Patent, above
alluded to, in as much as it allows the binding g to be applied to the
edge of the fabric e, without the interposition of the metallic sheet between
the edge of the fabric to be bound and the binding material, and thus to
produce a tighter binding than in the old plan. This guide is fixed on the
platform, the same as the one described in the Patent above alluded to.
The fourth of these improvements is represented in plan, Fig. 7, and
consists of a modification applied to the bent or bell-crank lever m, as will
be seen by inspecting the Figure. I use, instead of the toothed segment k
and pinion with its circular needle, a thread carrier or shuttle ?, resting on

page_text: the end of the lever m, which is elbowed out. The ends A and B of the thread
carrier or shuttle rest on steps or Y's in the shape of a cradle. Fig. 8 shews
in end view or section through a, a, Fig. 7, the step, or Y,for the pointed
end A. Fig. 9 shews the step K' for the thick end B, in section through x, x,
Fig. 7. The loop made by the upper thread passes under the thread carrier
or shuttle by slipping on and lifting the point A, and leaves the same by
lifting and slipping off the thick end B. Whilst the thread carrier or shuttle
passes through the loop, it uncoils the necessary length of thread, and then
assumes again its starting position. The essential feature of this improve-
ment is the free suspension of the thread carrier, resting upon an implement
which carries it through the loop, without causing it to slide upon a solid
body.
The fifth of these improvements is shewn in plan, Fig. 10,and in elevation,
Fig. 11, and consists in regulating the tension to be given to either of the
threads. For this purpose the thread is passed through the holen, which
is made through the pin a, having a button head b, and mounted (for the
upper thread) on the frame above the needle; the portion of the thread
between the pin and the bobbins is then coiled round the pin as many timesus
is necessary for obtaining the tension required, and the thread is lastly hocked
into one of the notches on the button head b. The greater or less friction
obtained by winding the thread round the pin, more or less, is evidently a
means of increasing or diminishing the tension of the thread at will. The
spring wire cis for drawing back the thread, when it is slackened by the
upward or back motion of the needle bar.
The sixth of these improvements relates, firstly, to a double foot 61, 611
or yielding plate, composed of two or more pieces, and operated upon by a
spring, so as to rest on fabrics, whose thickness varies in different points.
Fig. 12 shews this foot when raised, and Fig. 13 when it presses upon a
fabric of different thickness. This foot consists of two separate pieces, bland
; the piece is fixed upon the bar c¹, which acts under the impulse of the
coiled spring d', and the piece b¹¹ is capable of sliding upon the bar c¹, and is
also acted upon by the spring d¹. Secondly, to a foot for hemming in or
sewing such fabrics as have, like knitted goods, a tendency to curl at the
edges. To obviate this inconvenience, I have devised the plan shewn at
Figs. 14, 14, and 14", in the three orthographic views. The fabric, before
entering under the foot b', passes between two elastic plates ",, which
open and let the fabric pass in case of any knot or unusual obstacle coming
on. This guide 6,6, raised above the platform a, is intended to stretch
the fabric and take the curl out of it. The plate is cut diagonally from

page_text: c to d, so as to facilitate the passage of the fabric; there is also a hole (see
plan 14") for the needle to pass through the plate b. Thirdly, to a kind of
feet, for sewing on one side or on both sides of elevated surfaces, either square
or round. Figs. 15 and 16 shew in end view the shape of these feet as
used for the seams of harnesses, saddles, &. As will be readily conceived,
Figs. 15 and 16 are only examples of a modification directly applicable to the
flat feet, described in the Patent above alluded to.
The seventh of these improvements consists of a tubular thread carrier or
tubular shuttle, of which Fig. 17 is a vertical longitudinal section, and Fig. 18 a
plan. is a cylindrical piece of steel, which terminates in a point A, and is bored
out for receiving the cop or bobbin. The thread emerges through one of the
openings a, made in the body of the thread carrier, and is wound round one or
more teeth of a comb d, which is secured to the thread carrier. The friction
thus caused against the teeth of the comb prevents the thread coming off the
cop too easily. Although steel has been stated above as being used for these
thread carriers or shuttles, wood or metal, such as brass, may be employed;
also these thread carriers or shuttles may be cylindrical, conical, or of any
other convenient shape.
The eighth of these improvements consists in the use and application of a
single thread stitch, formed by passing a loop of the thread through the
material, then holding it till the needle has formed a second loop; the first loop
is then put through the second loop, the needle recedes and again puts a third
loop through the first loop, and so on. This stitch is represented by Fig. 19.
1 is the first loop, 2 the second loop, 3 the third loop, which repeats the
operation of the first loop.
The ninth of these improvements consists in the use of lubricating matter
for protecting the threads from breakage during sewing, and for preserving
and improving the seam; for this purpose I use either oily or gummy
matters, such as siccative linseed oil, gelatine, &c. These substances may be
applied by means of an apparatus shewn in elevation and section, Figs. 20
& 21. As will be seen, the thread passes over (or possibly under) a gorge
pulley P, which turns in a reservoir R, containing a certain quantity of the
lubricating liquid; the pulley P whilst turning brings round the liquid
necessary for lubricating the thread passing over it. o is a thread guide; but
I wish it to be understood that I do not strictly confine myself to the manner
described of using the lubricating matter.
The tenth of these improvements relates to the knee lever A, Figs. 22 and 23,
which I have added to the rod which carries the pressing foot 61. When the
footb, bu, is working, the lever is in the position figured at Fig. 22; but when

page_text: it is desired to raise the foot, & prevent the spring from forcing it down, the
lever is turned about the point B*, so as to cause itselbow C, D, to rest on the
fixed part of the frame E, Fig. 23, and sustain the foot rod.
The eleventh of these improvements consist in causing the bobbin e to
turn between two points d, d', as is shewn by Fig. 24, by means of a bracket
a, b, c. The coming off of the thread is regulated by screwing or unscrewing
the screw point d', and thus the proper tention may be obtained with more
exactness.
The twelfth of these improvements is shewn in elevation, Fig. 25, and in
plan, Fig. 26, and consists of an apparatus for cording and binding articles.
a is an inclined plane, on which the edge of the fabrice is made to pass whilst
being fed in. In front of this bracket is another bracket b, whose extremity
c overhangs the extremity d. By directing the edge of the fabric between
these two points c, d, the hem is formed by degrees, on account of the inclina-
tion of the two points c, d, and their gradually diminishing distance. The
fabric or material, upon leaving these fixings a, b, passes under the needle,
which sews the hem up with the cord. Figs. 27 and 28 represent a similar
guide apparatus for trimming or binding hats, clothes, and other articles.
A is a slot for fixing the guide in a proper position on the platform. B, B¹, are
arms or projections, which are for guiding the ribbon or binding R, entering
the guide at the wide end C, and emerging at the narrow end D, where the
binding is doubled up about the edge of the material, and is sewed on the
material. The binding R passes behind the guide pieces B, B', and against
the back of the box C, D, and then under the pressing foot.
The thirteenth of the present improvements consists of a system of feeding
by means of points or a notched bar, the material being held in place whilst
the feeder moves back by rods lifting the material round the notched
bar s whilst the said bar is drawn back, and thus preventing it from taking
the material back. These lifting rods pass through the platform by the side
of the notched bar, and are set in motion at the proper time by cams fixed on
the driving shaft h. The purpose of this improvement is to change the
compound motion of the notched bar s¹ (as described in the machine
herein before alluded to) into a horizontal and rectilinear reciprocating
motion.
The fourteenth of the present improvements consists in applying the feed
or notch bar on the upper side of the material to be sewed, instead of causing
it to act upon the under side, as in the machine above alluded to. The motion
is here derived from cams on the driving shaft, and transmitted by levers
suitably lodged in or attached to the needle bar framing. The platform need

page_text: therefore have no opening, and the material receives a progressing rectilinear
motion, which may also be performed by using instead of the notched bar a
point or points, which bear on the material for the purpose of causing it to
advance; but whichever of these surfaces it may be thought proper to employ,
a spring may be made to act upon them, the same as on the spring foot b¹,
before and above described.
The fifteenth of the present improvements consists in giving to the surface,
by which the material is fed, a periodical lateral motion, which allows to form
different kinds of stitches. This lateral motion may be obtained either by
means of the notched bar or surface s¹, or by an additional one, which are
moved by a separate and suitably shaped cam.
The sixteenth of the present improvements is for moving and directing
heavy or unwieldy pieces of material by means of an endless chain carrying
said material. This endless chain receives its periodical advancing motion
from the notched-bar s¹ or its equivalent.
The seventeenth of the present improvements is for making lap or flap
seams, viz., by means of a clamp, consisting of two distinct pieces, between
which the two pieces of material are secured, the whole length or part of the
seam, in such manner that the pieces cannot shift at the seam.
jaws or pieces of the clamp have a slot for allowing the needle to pass.
The two
The eighteenth of the present improvements consists in a point or points
for directing or guiding materials, such as leather, by retaining said point or
points in a furrow which may have been made on the material along the
line on which it is intended to be sewed. The material is thus guided in the
direction desired, as can also result from the use of one or more points against
which the fabrics is made to rest whilst advancing.
In witness whereof, I, the said Auguste Edouard Loradoux Bellford,
have hereunto set my hand and seal, this Fourth day of October, in
the year of our Lord 1854.
A. E. LORADOUX BELLFORD. (L.s.)