IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF LACE IN CURTAIN TWIST LACE MACHINERY
Year: 1884

page_text: "
I GEORGE BENTLEY of 19, Russell Street in the Town and County of the
Town of Nottingham Mechanic in the employment of Edward Elsey also of
Nottingham Lace Manufacturer do hereby declare the nature of my invention
for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF LACE IN CURTAIN TWIST LACE
MACHINERY" to be as follows:-
The improvements relate to an improved method of producing what is called in
the lace trade Madras net."
Also to the manufacture of "Two gait combination lace" in colors and
"Imitation Swiss lace" and "Swiss combination' and ordinary "Double" or
Single" tie curtain lace (with or without colors) at the same time.
And also to an improved method of producing ordinary "All three gait" curtain
lace and "Three and four gait" curtain lace at the same time, and separate, in
any part of the fabric.
In carrying out my improvements in the method of producing or imitating the
"Madras net I employ two full guide bars instead of three as heretofore, viz, one
warp guide bar and one spool guide bar, the spool bar being supplied with cotton
from spools and the warp bar supplied with cotton from a beam. The spool guide
bar traverses three or four gaits and the warp bar one gait on each motion of the
machine and the jack tric bar rises two gaits and falls one gait when the carriages
are in the back combs and falls one gait when the carriages are in the front combs.
I use the ordinary "Double tie" jack cam for moving the jacks or "Interceptors"
in and out between the spool threads.
I employ two similar ordinary jacquards one working every alternate motion and
with the usual "Double tie" lifting cam and the other working every fourth
motion and with a lifting cam to be hereafter described. Each corresponding
needle and hook of both jacquards acts upon the same "jack" or "interceptor" in
the machine and the needles are acted upon by a perforated card.
"
The "draft" is painted in two colors one color signifying where opaque or double
or single tie work is required in the pattern, and to be read for the jacquard working
every alternate motion, and the other color signifying where the "jacks are to
clear or to intercept the spool threads and to be read and punched for the jacquard
working every fourth motion.

page_text: "
And in order to distinguish this improved fabric which requires one warp thread
and one spool thread only to each bobbin thread, from the fabric called "Madras
Net" which requires three threads to each bobbin thread
Burmese lace."
purpose calling it
And for the manufacture of "Two gait combination lace" in colors and
"Imitation Swiss lace" and ordinary "Double" or "Single" tie curtain lace (with
or without colors) at the same time I employ three full guide bars, one bar being
supplied with threads from a beam and the other two being supplied with threads
from spools. The warp bar is traversed one or two gaits on each motion of the
machine and the spool bars traverse two or more gaits on each motion of the
machine, and the jack tric bar rises one gait when the carriages are in the back
combs, and falls one gait when the carriages are in the front combs. I employ the
usual "Double tie" jack-cam for pressing the jacks in and out between the threads
and I employ two similar ordinary single lift jacquards one working every motion
of the machine and with a lifting cam to be hereafter described and the other
working every alternate motion of the machine and with a lifting cam to be
hereafter described.
Each corresponding needle and hook of the jacquards acts upon the same jack
in the machine and the jack acts upon the three guide bar threads and the
needles are acted upon by a perforated card.
"
Vitrage ог "Store
รว
When a "
or any other "straight through" curtain net is
being made and two gait combination in colors is required and three or four gait
Imitation Swiss Lace" or Swiss combination lace as well at the same time three
guide bars are employed, viz, one warp bar and two spool bars.
$5
Where two gait combination in colors is required every other thread is taken out
of the spool bar traversing three or four gaits on each motion, the other spool
bar has every guide supplied and traverses two gaits on each motion the warp
bar has every guide supplied and traverses two gaits on each motion of the
machine.
•
Where the "Imitation Swiss Lace" or "Swiss combination Lace" is required
every guide is supplied with threads.
And where ordinary "Double tie " or "Single tie" three or four gait work is
Of
required the threads in the spool guide bar traversing two gaits are taken out.
course any color of cotton or silk or worsted may be worked from the spools warp
or carriage bobbin.
A
The draft of the pattern is painted in four colors one color signifying where the
threads of the spool bar traversing three or four gaits are to lie across the wale,
and are read and punched for the jacquard working every motion. A second color
signifying where the threads of the spool bar traversing two gaits are to lie across
the wale, and are read and punched for the jacquard working every motion.
third color signifying where the threads of the warp bar are required to cross from
one pillar to the other And a fourth color signifying where the threads of the
spool bar traversing three or four gaits and the warp bar threads are required to
cross from one pillar to the other. The third color is read and punched for the
jacquard working alternate motions and the fourth color is read and punched for
both jacquards.
To make "Two gait" in colors using three distinct colors on the spools, the
three guide bars above described are each supplied with threads from spools and a
fourth full guide bar is added with threads supplied from a beam and is traversed
one gait on each motion of the machine, the three spool bars and tric bar are
worked and acted upon in the same manner as described when making two gait
combination in colors and the action of the jacquards and jacks are the same and
the drafting is the same.
And to make ordinary "All three gait" curtain lace and "Three and four gait"
at the same time each separate and in any part of the fabric required (viz, one part
of a figure of a pattern or a part of a pattern to be three gait and the other part
four gait) two full guide bars are employed viz: one warp bar and one spool bar,

page_text: I traverse the warp bar one gait on each motion of the machine and the spool bar
is traversed four gaits on each motion. I employ two similar single lift jacquards
or a double lift jacquard the corresponding needles and hooks of each lift or
jacquard act upon the same jack or "interceptor" in the machine and the jacks act
upon the spool threads only. Both jacquards work together every alternate motion,
one jacquard lift is worked with the usual "Double tie" lifting cam and the other
lifting cam is shaped so as to allow the hooks to be let down as soon as the carriages
have left the threads in passing into the front combs. The jack tric bar is traversed
one gait on each motion of the machine and the jacks are pressed in and out between
the spool threads by the usual "Double tie" jack cam. The pattern is drafted in
two colors one to be read and pinched for each jacquard.
By such means I am enabled to manufacture an entirely new fabric. And a new
fabric so far as using two distinct colored spool threads in two gait combination
lace and also a new fabric so far as using three distinct colored spool threads in
two gait work. And an improved method of producing all three gait and
three and four gait work separate and at the same time and in any part of the
pattern.
From the previous description it will be seen that my invention relates to
Improved methods of manufacturing and improving well known lace fabrics in
curtain twist lace machinery which are produced from one and the same machine
and that there is but one general principle on which the several descriptions of lace
are made. The alteration required in the machinery to change from one fabric to
the other consists only in the number of guide bars and the quantity of threads
used, and the number of colors used in drafting the pattern and the different
periods of timo in which the Jacquards, guide bars, and tric bar are worked all
which is done by a change of wheels or cams.
I would remark that two Jacquards are used in each modification, the corre-
sponding needles of each acting upon the same
Jack" or "interceptor."
$6
I use the term "Burmese lace" for the reasons hereinbefore given and that it is
80 far new (the fabric) that I am enabled to produce a better effect in openwork
than heretofore by using a fourth less threads.
The manufacture of "Two gait combination lace" in colors according to my
invention has never been produced before, and all that is required is to add one
full guide bar supplied with threads from spools and taking out every other thread
from the other spool guide bar.
For the manufacture of "two gait" work" in accordance with my improvements
I use three distinct colors each separate or two together in any part of the fabric,
and all that is required is another full guide bar supplied with threads from
spools.
And to make "three gait" work and "four gait" work separate and in any
part of the pattern is new according to my improved method of manufacture which
is very simple and requires no special modification of machinery.
300

page_text: I GEORGE BENTLEY of 19 Russell Street in the Town and County of the Town
of Nottingham Mechanic in the employment of Edward Elsey also of Nottingham
Lace Manufacturer do hereby declare the nature of my invention for "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF LACE IN CURTAIN TWIST LACE MACHINERY" and
in what manner the same is to be perforined to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement :—
The improvements relate to an improved method of producing what is called in
the lace trade "Madras net."
«
Also to the manufacture of "Two gait combination lace" in colors and
'Imitation Swiss lace" and "Swiss combination lace" and ordinary "Double"
or Single" tie curtain lace (with or without colors) at the same time.
"
And also to an improved method of producing ordinary "All three gait" curtain
lace and "Three and four gait" curtain lace at the same time, and separate in any
part of the fabric.
First modification. In carrying out my improvements in the method of pro-
ducing or imitating the "Madras net" I employ two full guide bars instead of
three as heretofore, viz, one warp guide bar and one spool guide bar the spool bar
being supplied with cotton threads from spools and the warp bar supplied with
cotton threads from a bean. The spool guide bar traverses three or four gaits and
the warp bar one gait on each motion of the machine and the Jack tric bar rises
two gaits and falls one gait when the carriages are in the back combs and falls one
gait when the carriages are in the front combs. I use the ordinary "Double tie "
Jack cam for moving the Jacks or "Interceptors" in and out between the spool
threads.
I employ two similar ordinary Jacquards one working every alternate motion
and with the usual "Double tie" lifting cam and the other working every fourth
motion and with a lifting cam to be hereinafter described. Each corresponding
needle and hook of both Jacquards acts upon the same "Jack" or "interceptor
in the machine and the needles are acted upon by a perforated card.
"
The draft" is painted in two colors one color signifying where opaque or
double or single tie work is required in the pattern, and to be read for the Jacquard
Jacks
working every alternate motion and the other color signifying where the
are to clear or to intercept the spool threads and to be read and punched for the
Jacquard working every fourth motion.
And in order to distinguish this improved fabric which requires one warp thread
and one spool thread only to each bobbin thread from the fabric called "Madras
net which requires three threads to each bobbin thread I purpose calling it
"Burmese lace."
"
"
Second modification.-And for the manufacture of "Two gait combination lace
in colors and "Imitation Swiss lace" and ordinary "Double' or "Single" tie
curtain lace (with or without colors) at the same time. I employ three full guide
bars, one bar being supplied with threads from a beam and the other two being

page_text: .
supplied with threads from spools. The warp bar is traversed one or two gaits on
each motion of the machine and the spool bars traverse two or more gaits on each
motion of the machine and the Jack tric bar rises one gait when the carriages are
in the back combs and falls one gait when the carriages are in the front combs
I employ the usual "Double tie" Jack cam for pressing the Jacks in and out
between the spool threads and I employ two similar ordinary single lift Jacquards
one working every motion of the machine and with a lifting cam to be hereinafter
described and the other working every alternate motion of the machine and with
a lifting cam to be hereinafter described.
Each corresponding needle and book of the Jacquards acts upon the same Jack
in the machine and the Jack acts upon the three guide bar threads and the needles
are acted upon by a perforated card.
When a "
Vitrage" or "Store" or any other "straight through" curtain net is
being made and two gait combination lace in colors is required and three or four
gait "Imitation Swiss lace" or "Swiss combination lace as well at the same
time three guide bars are employed viz, one warp bar and two spool bars.
"
Where two gait combination lace in colors is required every other thread is taken
out of the spool bar traversing three or four gaits on each motion the other spool
bar has every guide supplied and traverses two gaits on each motion the warp
bar has every guide supplied and traverses two gaits on each motion of the
machine.
"7
or
"
<6
}
Swiss combination lace" is required
Where the "Imitation Swiss lace" or
every guide is supplied with threads.
And where ordinary "Double tie Single tie" three or four gait work is
required the threads in the spool guide bar traversing two gaits are taken out. Of
course any color of cotton or silk or worsted may be worked from the spools warp
or carriage bobbin.
.
"
The draft of the pattern is painted in four colors-one color signifying where the
threads of the spool bar traversing three or four gaits are to lie across the wale and
are read and punched for the Jacquard working every motion. A second color
signifying where the threads of the spool bar traversing two gaits are to lie
across the wale and are read and punched for the Jacquard working every motion.
A third color signifying where the threads of the warp bar are required to cross
from one pillar to the other. And a fourth color signifying where the threads of
the spool bar traversing three or four gaits and the warp bar threads are required
to cross from one pillar to the other. The third color is read and punched for the
Jacquard working alternate motions and the fourth color is read and punched for
both Jacquards.
To make "Two gait" in colors using three distinct colors on the spools, the
three guide bars above described are each supplied with threads from spools and a
fourth full guide bar is added with threads supplied from a beam and is traversed
one gait on each motion of the machine, the three spool bars and tric bar are
worked and acted upon in the same manner as described when making two gait
combination in colors and the action of the Jacquards and Jacks are the same and
the drafting is the same.
Third modification.-And to make ordinary "All three gait" curtain lace and
"Three and four gait" at the same time each separate and in any part of the fabric
required (viz one part of a figure of a pattern or a part of a pattern to be three
gait and the other part four gait) two full guide bars are employed viz, one warp
bar and one spool bar I traverse the warp bar one gait on each motion of the
machine and the spool bar is traversed four gaits on each motion I employ two
similar single lift Jacquards or a double lift Jacquard the corresponding needles
and hooks of each lift or Jacquard act upon the same Jack or "interceptor" in the
machine and the Jacks act upon the spool threads only. Both Jacquards work
together every alternate motion one Jacquard lift is worked with the usual "Double
tie" lifting cam and the other lifting cain is shaped so as to allow the hooks to be
let down as soon as the carriages have left the threads in passing into the front

page_text: combs The Jack tric bar is traversed one gait on each motion of the machine and
the Jacks are pressed in and out between the spool threads by the usual "Double
tie" Jack cam The pattern is drafted in two colors one to be read and punched
for each Jaquard.
By such means I am enabled to manufacture an entirely new fabric. And a new
fabric so far as using two distinct colored spool threads in two gait combination
lace. And also a new fabric so far as using three distinct colored spool threads in
two gait work And an improved method of producing all three gait and three
and four gait work separate and at the same time and in any part of the pattern.
From the previous description it will be seen that my invention relates to
improved methods of manufacturing and improving well known lace fabrics in
curtain twist lace machinery which are produced from one and the same machine
and that there is but one general principle on which the several descriptions of lace
are made. The alteration required in the machinery to change from one fabric to
the other consists only in the number of guide bars and the quantity of threads
used and the number of colors used in drafting the pattern and the different periods
of time in which the Jacquards guide bars, and tric bar are worked all which is
done by a change of wheels or cams.
I would remark that two Jacquards are used in each modification the corre-
sponding needles of each acting upon the same Jack" or "interceptor."
"
I use the term "Burmese lace" for the reasons herein before given and that it is
so far new (the fabric) that I am enabled to produce a better effect in openwork
than heretofore by using a fourth less threads.
The manufacture of "Two gait combination lace" in colors according to my
invention has never been produced before and all that is required is to add one
full guide bar supplied with threads from spools and taking out every other thread
from the other spool guide bar.
For the manufacture of "two gait "work in accordance with my improve-
ments I use three distinct colors each separate or two together in any part of the
fabric and all that is required is another full guide bar supplied with threads from
spools.
And to make "Three gait" work and "Four gait" work separate and in any
part of the pattern is new according to my improved method of manufacture
which is very simple and requires no special modification of machinery.
And in order that my invention may be clearly understood and readily carried
into practice I will now describe the drawings hereto annexed.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.
Figure 1 is a transverse view of parts of a curtain twist lace machine suitably
arranged for carrying out my invention the other drawings represent the guide bar
wheels Jacquard lifting cams Jack bar cam, and tric bar wheels referred to in the
following description of my invention of new and improved lace fabrics the several
parts being known under the following terms viz.
In (Figure 1) 1 is the bobbin thread 2 bobbin 3 carriage 4 4º front and back
combs 5 and 6 front and back comb leads 7 and 8 front and back comb bars
9 warp thread 10 11 12 spool threads 13 14 15 16 guide bars. The numbers
1 2 3 and 4 over the bars represent the guides and as I shall frequently have
occasion to allude to these bars I shall term them as N° 1 guide bar, or N° 2 guide
bar, and so on as they are numbered on the guides 17 tric bar 18 tric lead 18ª
tric 19 bracket for carrying guides and tric bars 20 Jack or interceptor in three
different positions 21 Jack lead 22 Jack bar 23 string attached to Jack or
interceptor 24 and 25 sleys for strings to pass through 26 26 strings (leading
up to Jacquards) attached to one Jack (Figure 2) three of four gait spool bar
wheel N° 1. 2. 3 and 4 thereon denote motions (Figure 3) warp bar or tric
bar wheel Nos 1 and 2 thereon denote motions. (Figure 4) tric bar wheel
N° 1, 2 3 and 4 thereon denote motions (Figure 5) warp or spool bar wheel

page_text: Nos 123 and 4 denote motions (Figure 6) three of four gait spool bar wheel
Nos 1. 2 3 4 5 and 6 thereon denote motions (Figure 7) two three or four gait
spool bar wheel Nos 1, 2, 3, 4 5 and 6 thereon denote motions (Figure 8) double
tie Jack bar cam (Figure 9) double tie Jacquard lifting cam (Figure 10) Jacquard
lifting cam (Figure 11) Jacquard lifting cam (Figure 12) Tric bar wheel Nos 1, 2,
3, and 4 thereon denote motions. The figures around the above cams denote
motions.
In describing the methods of producing the improved lace fabrics before referred
to I shall divide them into three modifications.
First modification for producing the "Burmese lace" I employ two full guide
bars viz-one warp guide bar N° 1 and one spool guide bar N° 4 the spool bar
being supplied with threads from spools and the warp bar supplied with threads
from spools or a beam I employ two similar ordinary Jacquards one working
every alternate motion of the machine and with the usual "Double tie" lifting
cam and the other working every fourth motion and with a lifting cam to be
hereinafter described. Each corresponding needle and hook of both Jacquards acts
upon the same "Jack" or "interceptor" in the machine, and the needles are acted
upon by a perforated card. I will now proceed to describe the movements of the
several parts alluded to above and the actions upon the threads which are as
follows.
First motion. Carriages in the back combs. The Jacks rise one gait by the
action of wheel (Figure 4 motion 1.) the spool guide bar rises two gaits by the action
of wheel (Figure 2 motion 1) and the warp bar rises one gait by the action of
wheel (Figure 3 motion 1) The lifts of the Jacquards having been raised to the
height required by the actions of the cams (Figures 9 and 10 motions 1 and 4)
and lifted the hooks left by the perforated cards the unselected Jacks are then
pressed in between the spool threads by the action of the cam (Figure 8 motion 1)
and as soon as they have done so the Jacks rise one gait (Figure 4 motion 2) then
the lift of the N° 2 Jacquard falls sudden but not so as to leave the hooks (Figure 10
motion 1) and when its selected Jacks have entered between the threads the spool
guide bar rises one or more gaits (Figure 2 motion 2) and the tric bar falls one
gait (Figure 4 motion 3) The carriages then pass into the front combs.
Second motion.-Carriages in front combs. The Jacks fall one gait (Figure 4
motion 4) the spool guide bar falls one or more gaits (the same distance as it last
rose) (Figure 2 motion 3) the warp bar falls one gait (Figure 3 motion 2) The
No 2 Jacquard lift having risen again now falls sudden and leaves the hooks, and
when its selected Jacks have entered between the spool threads the spool guide bar
falls on to the deadstop (Figure 2 motion 4) The carriages then pass to the back
combs and while they are doing so the N° 1 Jacquard lift falls (Figure 9 motion 2)
to receive the hooks left by the perforated card and lifts them for the third and
fourth motions (Figure 9 motion 1).
Third motion. Carriages in back combs. The Jacks leave the threads (Figure 8
motion 2) The Jacks rise one gait (Figure 4 motion 1) the spool guide bar rises
one or more gaits (Figure 2 motion 1) the warp guide bar rises one gait (Figure 3
motion 1) The unselected Jacks then enter between the threads (Figure 8 motion 1)
The N° 2 Jacquard does not act on this notion therefore there is no effect in tho
fabric caused by the Jacks rising and falling one gait here (Figure 4 motions 3
and 4) so when the spool bar has risen one or more gaits (Figure 2 motions 2) the
carriages pass to the front combs, and while doing so the N° 2 Jacquard lift rises
(Figure 10 motion 4) with the hooks left by the perforated card and remains up
for the fourth and first motions.
Fourth motion. Carriages in front combs. The N° 2 Jacquard lift having risen
to its height with the hooks left by the perforated card and the N° 1 Jacquard lift
still being up from the third motion. The Jacks fall one gait (Figure 4 motion 4)
the spool guide bar falls to deadstop (Figure 2 motions 3 and 4) the warp bar falls
one gait (Figure 3 motion 2) The carriages then pass through the threads to the
back combs and while doing so the N° 1 Jacquard lift falls (Figure 9 motion 2) to

page_text: receive the hooks left by the perforated card and then rises Figure 9 motion 1) for
the first motion.
I would remark that I may instead of rising the Jacks a second time on the
first motion let the spool guide bar fall one gait which will have the same effect
on the fabric.
Second modification for producing "Two gait combination lace" in colors and
"Imitation Swiss lace" and ordinary "Double or "Single" tie curtain lace (with
or without colors) at the same time. And to make "Two gait lace" in colors using
three distinct colors on the spools.
For the production of the above fabrics I employ two similar ordinary single lift
Jacquards the actions of which are the same as described in the specification of a
Patent granted to me dated 12 February 1883 N° 761.
In making "Two gait combination lace" and Imitation Swiss lace" and ordinary
"Double or "Single" tie curtain lace the same time I employ three full guide
bars viz, Nos 2. 3 and 4 (Figure 1) N° 3 bar being supplied with threads from a
beam and the others from spools.
The movements of the guide bars are as follows.
First motion.-Carriages in back combs when the Jacks have left the threads by
the action of the cam (Figure 8 motion 2) the Jacks rise one gait (Figure 12
motion 1) the No 2 guide bar rises two gaits (Figure 7 motion 1) No 3 guide bar
rises one gait (Figure 5 motion 1) No 4 guide bar rises two gaits (Figure 6
motion 1) The No 1 Jacquard lift having attained its required height with the
unselected hooks left by the perforated card, the selected Jacks are now pressed in
between the threads by Jack cam (Figure 8 motion 1) the No 4 guide bar rises one
gait (Figure 6 motion 2) The carriages then leave the back combs and in doing
so the Jacks rise one gait (Figure 12 motion 2) N° 2 guide bar rises one gait
(Figure 7 motion 2) the N° 3 guide bar rises one gait (Figure 5 motion 2) the N° 4
guide bar falls two or more gaits (Fig 6 motion 3) the N° 1 Jacquard lift then falls
the N° 4 guide bar rises two or more gaits (Figure 6 motion 4).
The No 2 jacquard lift now rises with the hooks left by the perforated card and
draws the Jacks back just clear of the No 3 guide bar threads when the N° 3 guide
bar falls two or more gaits (Fig 5 motion 3).
The lift of the N° 2 Jacquard then falls and the Jacks again enter between
the threads the N° 3 guide bar rises one or more gaits (Figure 5 motion 4) the
Jacks fall one gait (Figure 12 motion 3) the No 2 guide bar falls one gait (Figure 7
motion 3) The carriages then leave the threads and pass into the front combs.
Second motion.-Carriages in front combs. The Jacks fall one gait (Figure 12
motion 4) No 4 guide bar falls two gaits (Figure 6 motion 5) the N° 2 guide bar
falls one gait (Figure 7 motion 4) The N° 1 Jacquard lift having attained its
required height with the unselected hooks left by the perforated card the N° 4
guide bar falls one gait (Figure 6 motion 6) the N° 2 guide bar falls one gait
(Figure 7 motion 5) the carriages then pass to the back combs and N° 1 Jacquard
lift falls to receive the hooks left by the perforated card and the motions are
repeated.
In making "Two gait" combination lace in colors every other guide only in N° 4
guide bar are supplied with threads but I do not confine myself to this for by
supplying every guide with threads one color will be embossed and by acting
upon the No 2 guide bar according to figure 7 motions 5 and 6 both colors would
be embossed.
"
"
When I require to produce "Imitation" Swiss lace" at the same with "Two
gait" combination lace, every guide in the guide bars (where required) are supplied
with threads. And where "Double' or Single" tie ordinary curtain net is
required as well at the same time the threads are taken out of the guides of the
No 2 guide bar.
To make "Two gait" lace in colors using three distinct colors on the spools
I employ four full guide bars as shown on figure 1 the N° 1 guide bar being
supplied with threads from a beam and the other guide bars supplied with threads

page_text: from spools. The N° 1 guide bar is traversed by the wheel figure 3 the other
guide bars and tric bar being traversed as above described in this modification, and
also the actions of the Jacquards are the same every other guide bar only in the
No 4 guide bar is supplied with threads but when I wish that guide bar to produce
embossed or raised clothing every guide is supplied with threads and when I wish
the other guide bars supplied with threads from spools to produce embossed or
raised clothing the wheels actuating them (Figures 5 and 7) are cut one gait below
the dotted lines as indicated that is to cause the threads in those guide bars to
traverse more than two gaits where required.
Third modification. To make ordinary "All three gait" curtain lace and
"Three and four gait "lace at the same time and each separate and in any part of
the fabric required (viz-one part of a figure of a pattern or a part of a pattern
to be three gait and the other part four gait) two full guide bars are employed
(viz Nos 3 and 4 figure 1) N° 3 guide bar being supplied with threads from a beam
and No 4 guide bar supplied with threads from spools. The movements of the
guide bars, Jacks and Jacquards are as follows:-
First motion. Carriages in back combs. The Jacks having left the threads by
the action of the cam (Figure 8 motion 2) the Jacks rise one gait (Figure 3
motion 1) the N° 4 guide bar rises two gaits (Figure 2 motion 1) the N° 3 guide
bar rises one gait (Figure 3 motion 1).
The lifts of the Jacquards having attained their required heights with the
unselected hooks left by the perforated cards, the selected Jacks are now pressed in
between the threads by the cam. (Figure 8 motion 1) the N° 4 guide bar rises
two gaits (Figure 2 motion 2) the carriages then pass through between the threads
to the front combs and as soon as as they are clear of the threads the Jacks and
N° 3 guide bar fall one gait (Figure 3 motion 2) the N° 4 guide bar falls three
gaits (Figure 2 motion 1) the lift of the N° 2 Jacquard now falls sudden (Figure 11
motion 2) and when the Jacks held back by that Jacquard have entered between
the threads of the N° 4 guide bar, that bar falls one gait (Figure 2 motion 4) the
carriages then pass from front to back combs the N° 1 Jacquard lift falls (Figure 9
motion 2) and the motions are repeated.
I would remark that the term 'rise' or 'fall' in connection with the guide
bars or Jacks means that they traverse in the direction of the length of the
machine.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that I
make no claim to any of the parts separately which are well known and in
common use but what I claim is
The improved manufacture of lace such as hereinbefore described in curtain
twist lace machinery and the combination of machinery as arranged to act
substantially in the production of the same as set forth and represented by the
drawings hereto annexed.