IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFAC- TURE OR PRODUCTION OF BOOTS AND SHOES, AND IN MATERIALS, MACHINERY, AND APPARATUS CONNECTED THEREWITH
Year: 1852

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JULIAN
BERNARD, of Guildford Street, Russell Square, in the County of Middlesex,
Gentleman, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Royal Letters Patent under the Great Seal of the United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland, bearing date at Westminster, the Tenth day of September,
in the sixteenth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors,
give and grant unto me, the said Julian Bernard, Her especial licence, full
power, sole privilege and authority, that I, the said Julian Bernard, my exors,
adiiors, and assigns, and such others as I, the said Julian Bernard, my exors,
adñiors, or assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from
time to time and at all times during the term of years therein mentioned,
should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within England,.
Wales, and the Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, and also within the Islands of
Jersey, Guernsey, Alderney, Sark, and Man, and in all Her Majesty's Colonies
and Plantations abroad, my Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFAC-
TURE OR PRODUCTION OF BOOTS AND SHOES, AND IN MATERIALS, MACHINERY, AND
APPARATUS CONNECTED THEREWITH;" in which said Letters Patent is contained a
proviso obliging me, the said Julian Bernard, by an instrument in writing
under my hand and seal, particularly to describe and ascertain the nature of
my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, and to
A

page_text: cause the same to be inrolled in Her Majesty's High Court of Chancery within
six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said in part
recited Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said
Julian Bernard, do hereby declare the nature of my said Invention, and
in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by this present Instrument in writing as follows, reference
being had to the accompanying Drawings, and to the letters and figures
marked thereon, that is to say:
My said Invention relates, first, to certain novel mechanical arrangements
and combinations for lasting or mounting the uppers upon boots and shoes.
Secondly, to a novel mode of piercing or screwing holes in the soles of boots
and shoes, and inserting and moulding plastic or soluble materials into suitable
holes made or formed for that purpose in the parts to be connected.
Thirdly, to stitching or ornamenting the soles of boots and shoes.
Fourth, to a novel system or mode of waterproofing and strengthening the
uppers of boots and shoes, whereby the stitching of the strengthening pieces or
lining can be dispensed with.
Fifth, to certain novel mechanical arrangements for the purpose of stitching
and uniting materials.
Figure 1 on Sheet 1, of my Drawing, is a vertical section of a machine for
lasting or mounting the uppers of boots and shoes upon the last, being an
improvement upon the mode or process already secured to me by Letters
Patent, bearing date on or about the Twenty-seventh day of January, One
thousand eight hundred and fifty-two. Figure 2 is a plan of the same, with
portions removed. Figure 3 is an edge view of one of the perforated plates
used for forcing or forming the uppers upon the last, and holding them until
further secured. Figure 4 is a section of one of the perforated travelling
slides, with the piece A to which it is attached, and made with grooves V,
which fit into corresponding grooves in the standard B, a portion only of which
is shewn. Figure 5 is a rack for holding the lever after it has been pulled by
the operator. Figure 6 is a side view of a pair of pliers, with connecting
links C, C, C, as shewn. Figure 7 is a plan, and Figure 8 a longitudinal
section of a plate, and which may be used, together with a connecting rod
shewn at Figure 9, to actuate the pliers, instead of the lazey tongs arrange-
ment shewn at Figure 1, and herein-after more fully described. The machine
is represented as holding a boot or shoe last, with an upper thereon, reversed,
in the recess of the holder D, and partly sustained by the fluid-containing
bag E, which communicates by means of the tube F with any convenient head

page_text: pressure or forcing apparatus of water or other fluid; this bag or fluid-holder
may be made of elastic or non-elastic material, according to the nature of the
work to be performed. The pipe or tube G, which is in connection with any
convenient exhausting apparatus, conducts the air from the last D, the bottom
of which is perforated or recessed, and on which the inner sole is placed, but
not shewn in the Drawing, whilst it is held on by means of atmospheric
pressure during the process of lasting or mounting. A number of pliers,
similar to that shewn at Figure 6, are hung to the lazy tongs arrangement by
means of links or cords I, I, I, as shown, and which are passed over the
pins J, J, of the diagonal junction pieces H; the lazy tongs movement is
carried by the horizontal bar K, the fixed joint centres being at L, whilst all
the lines of the central joint pins M traverse, as required, in the slot N; the.
loose free end is connected to the link or rod O at P, the other end of which
is connected by a pin P 1 to the pendant lever Q, the fulcrum of which is a pin
at R. The rack shewn at Figure 5 is bolted to the upright standard S at T,
to hold the lever Q at any required angle. U, U, and V, V, Figure 2, are
perforated moveable slides, curved and shaped to correspond with the outlines
of the boot or shoe sole. V¹, V, Figure 1, are V-shaped grooves which fit over
corresponding shaped projections on the edges, the slides U, U, so that when
the four slides are advanced they form one plate with a uniform series of
perforations W. The screw spindles placed in bearings, as shown at Figures 1
and 2 and 4, are furnished with crank handles Y and fixed collars 1, and are
made to pass through screw nuts Z, which are fixed to the moveable slides, and
shown at Figure and 4. These slides are attached to and carried by
moveable pieces, one of which is shewn in section A, Figure 4, and are fitted
with V grooves as exhibited at Figure 4. When a boot or shoe is to be lasted
by this machine, the discharging cock a is opened, which will cause the bag E
to collapse, while the cords 6 prevent it falling into the bottom of the recessed
chamber; an upper leather is then passed over the last D in the usual manner,
and replaced on the stud C and the tube d, in the chamber framing D as
shewn, with the upper leather upon it. The cock a is now opened, and the
bag E inflated. The inner sole, which is not shewn in the Drawing, is then
placed upon the bottom of the last, and the exhaust cock e opened, which will
have the effect of holding the inner sole upon the last until the boot or shoe is
lasted, and also of holding the last in its position by causing the recess
or chamber f, f, to be exhausted through a communication with the tube at 9.
The pliers are then parted, and the edges of the upper leather inserted between
their nipping surfaces, which may be made of an endless clastic band shewn
at h, serves to retain their hold to the material until further acted upon by

page_text: tention by means of the lever Q. When the requisite number of pliers have
been made to lay hold of the uppers, the lever Q, to which the pliers are
connected, is pulled and placed at any required angle in the rack T', which
will have the effect of pulling and stretching the uppers, and holding them in a
state of tention. A spring ✗, which I prefer to be of india-rubber, is inserted
between the links C of the pliers and the links or cords I, which forms a
connection with the lever Q as shewn, will have the effect of equalizing the
degree of tention or pull of the upper. The uppers having been pulled and
held as described, the perforated slides U, U, V, V, are then advanced by
turning the crank handles Y until they come in contact with the uppers. Q, and
turn them down and cramp them over the inner sole previously placed upon
the last D. If the pliers are found to come in contact with the slide- during
When the slides are
the operation, they may be released as required.
sufficiently advanced over the last, the inner sole, and the uppers, the pliers
are all released. The upper and under sole may be attached by perforating
them with holes corresponding with the holes W in the plates U, U, and V, V,
by any suitable pointed tool, and afterwards inserting the upper and inner sole
through the perforations W, which I prefer to be made of cured gutta percha
or leather. This operation performed, the slides are withdrawn, and the shoe
is ready for its next stage of manufacture.
In reference to Figure 7, 8, and 9, on Sheet 1, I would remark that when
found desirable to pull the edges of the nippers in a direct vertical line with
the curves or edges of the last, that I purpose doing so by substituting the
plates shewn at Figures 7 and 8, instead of the lazy tongs arrangement
exhibited and described; in doing so I connect the plate to the horizontal
bar K, in 'which are screwed two pins 3, 3, as shewn, and which are made to
pass through the holes 4, 4, in the perforated plate, Figure 7; cotters are then
passed through the slots in the pins, thus securing the plate to the bar K;
the cords to which the levers are connected are then passed through the
holes 5, 5, 5, and secured to the cross piece 6, Figure 9, which passes through
the connecting rod 7; the other end of this rod is secured to the lever Q at P.
By this arrangement it is evident that when the lever Q is pulled in the direc-
tion of the arrow's flight, that each pair of pliers will be pull'd in the direction
of the hole in the plate through which its connecting cord passes.
At Sheets 2, 3, 4, and 5 of the Drawings hereunto annexed, Figure 1, on
Sheet 2, exhibits a front elevation of a machine or aparatus for piercing or
drilling, and inserting or infusing plastic or soluble material into the soles,
heels, and uppers of boots and shoes, for connecting or attaching the several
parts together in the manner and by the means herein-after particularly

page_text: described and represented; and at Sheet 3, Figure 1 is an end view of the
above-mentioned machine; and Figure 2 is a transverse and vertical section of
the same as it would appear if divided through the line A, B,,at Fig. 1, of
Sheet 2; and some of the principal parts of this machine are exhibited
at Sheets 3, 4, and 5, drawn to a larger scale to enable the arrangement and
construction of such parts to be more clearly understood. And at each of
these Sheets of Drawings I employ similar letters of, reference to denote
corresponding parts, in so far as such parts appear or
can be seen at each
of the Figures respectively.
21
2.
"
-At Sheets 2, 3, and 4, A marks the front framing, and B the back framing
of the machine, to which are attached the following parts:-C is a standard,
the upper part whereof supports one end of the main driving shaft D, upon
which are fixed the fly-wheel E, fast and loose pullies F, F, and pinion G.
The other and opposite end of the main shaft D works in a bearing attached
to the framing B, as shewn. I, K, mark shafts, mounted in suitable bearings,
attached to the framing B. The shaft I has a pinion L keyed upon one end
thereof, which takes or gears into the pinion G, and is of the same diameter;
and there is a spur wheel M keyed upon the opposite end of the shaft I,
which gears into a spur wheel N, the same being loose, upon the shaft K, as
also the spur wheel O, which is placed on the opposite end of the shaft K,
and gears into the pinion G. P, P¹, mark clutch boxes of the ordinary con-
struction, furnished with forked levers a, attached to the framing, as shewn,
for-throwing said clutch boxes into and out of gear with the clutches upon the
bosses of the wheels N and O; N, for the purpose of reversing the direction of,
and producing alternate circular motion of, the shaft K without stopping the
main driving shaft D for that purpose.
1
Having described the main driving parts of this machine, I will now
proceed to describe the mechanical arrangements and combinations of parts
I employ in connection therewith, as follows:-6 marks a hydrostatic cylinder,
the upper part whereof rests and slides upon angle rails c, c, fixed to the
framing, and extending its whole length. Said cylinder is -furnished with
injection and eduction cocks & and e, and is fitted with a piston f, the upper
part whereof is formed with a projecting flange or table. g, on which is placed
the framing h, to which it is secured as shewn, and contains the last q upon
the upper and other parts are placed when operated upon in the manner
herein-after described. R marks a moveable plate, to which is attached
another plate of brass or other suitable metal s, the under surface whereof
should be of the same curvature as the last. The plate extends nearly
across the width between the back and front framings of the machine, and is

page_text: supported when out of use by the projecting rails 1, 1, cast upon said
framings, which extend throughout the length of the machine, and upon
which said plate slides.
"I will now proceed to describe the order in which the mechanism is arranged
for performing the several successive operations of piercing holes or puncturing
the soles and uppers, screwing said holes, infusing or filling said holes with
plastic material or composition, and finally of attaching the heel to the boot
or shoe in a similar manner. And as regards the arrangement of the
mechanism for piercing or puncturing, it is as follows:-i, i, marks a series
of spindles or piercers, shewn more clearly at Fig. 1, Shcet 3, and which may
be used with or without screw threads, as shewn at Figure 9, Sheet 5. The
lower extremities of these pierces pass through holes formed in the plate k,
and their upper extremities have a thread or screw cut or formed upon
them, which is of the same pitch as that formed upon the points, as exhibited
at Figure 9, Sheet 5, and which pass through screwed holes in the plates
k1, k2; which, together with the plate k, are connected together by stretcher
bolts and nuts 2, 2, the whole being connected in the main framing of the
machine at Q by the piece R; and in order to transmit inotion to said
spindles or pierces, cords are passed through and wound round the same,
and the ends of said cords are securely fixed to the ends.m of the cross
travelling frame S, which has slots p formed in its sides, and which are made
to travel over the pins o, which are fixed in the pieces n, which are secured to
the framing A and B. There is a rope or chain t, secured at u, the cross
framing, and wound round the shaft k, and the other end secured at v, as
shewn. It is evident that when alternate motion is imparted to the shaft k,
it travels the frame S backwards and forwards, and thereby revolving the
spindles in the framing k, k 1, k2, which will cause the spindles to ascend or
descend by means of the screw threads formed upon said spindles and plates,
as shewn at Figs. 1, 1, and 9 of Sheets 2, 3, and 5; and by these means, and
in this manner, the piercing or screwing operation is performed. And I
employ a similar arrangement in the compartment Y to that lastly above
mentioned for the purpose of imparting motion to the spindles placed therein,
the only difference in which is, that the spindles in such compartments have
their lower and piercing extremities formed into a screw, at shewn at Sheet 5,
instead of being plain or smooth, for the purpose of cutting or forming a
helical groove or channel in the holes previously formed by the spindles or
piercers, so that the plastic material inserted into such holes will assume the
form of a screw, according to the formation of the hole made. The arrange-
ment exhibited in the compartment Z of the framing is as follows:-³, u',

page_text: marks a rectangular-shaped casting or box of the following construction
(shewn more clearly at Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, of Shect. 5, at which, Figures u², u²,
marks another rectangular-shaped box, smaller than the box u, for the
purpose of leaving space between these two boxes for the purpose hereafter
mentioned. The box is formed with top and bottom flanges. 5 and 6 for
the purpose of connecting it to the box u¹; and such points, of connection
should be made steam-tight, as also the top plate r, to which is bolted the
picce R, which is secured to the framing A and B by bolts, as shown at
Figure 2 of Sheet 3. And as regards the interior of the box u², I construct
the same as follows:-7, 7, marks an endless recess or channel, the bottom
part whereof has holes drilled or formed therein at distances from each other
corresponding to the lower ends of the spindles or pierces in the compartment X
and travelling plate S. And further, a portion of the under surface of the
box u² is formed of the same curvature as that of the plate s, before described,
which comes into contact therewith, and which is shewn at Figure 4 of
Sheet 5; and there is a plate w, shewn at Figure 2 of Sheet 5, 'securely fixed
to the under side of the box u³, which forms a chamber into which steam or
other heated fluid is admitted by the pipes x, shewn at Figure 2 of Sheet 4.,.
The purpose of this chamber, as also that formed by the space between the
boxes u¹ and u³, is to surround the box with steam, admitted through the
pipe X, to keep the material which is introduced into the box u² by the pipe x¹
always in a plastic or soluble state. It will also be seen, upon referring to
Figure 2 of Sheet 4, that the inside of the box u² is furnished with an elastic
bag y, to which is attached a pipe z, said pipe being connected to a steam
boiler or hot-water forcing apparatus for inflating the said bag therewith, and
thereby exerting pressure upon the surface of the plastic material for the;
purpose hereafter mentioned. And I provide the under and perforated
surface of the box with perforated sliding pieces q, which I denominate
disconnecters, inasmuch as that their office is to establish and cut off the com-
munication between the inside of the box us and the holes in the plate s; and
I form the disconnecters of the same curvature as the under surface of the
box and upper surface of the plate s, with which it is in close con-
tact. And I employ four of such disconnecters, one underneath 'each side of
the box ², and one at the under side of each end, corresponding to the toe
and heel of the last, as shewn at Figures 1 and 2 of Sheet 4; and I actuate
these slides or disconnecters by handles 10 in the manner exhibited, and in
the compartment of the machine I arrange, dispose, and connect a piercing
or screwing apparatus, similar in action to that before mentioned with refe-
rence to the arrangement exhibited at the compartment X, with this difference,
4

page_text: b
that in the compartment Z¹ the piercers or screwers which are to connect the
heel to a boot are placed in a vertical position, instead of being inclined or
placed at an angle as before mentioned, and giving greater range of action,
hereafter described, according to the thickness of the heel. And I also
employ an apparatus 11, similar to that before mentioned, and marked u¹, u,
in the compartment Z, and of suitable size. The arrangements exhibited in
the several compartments above mentioned are fixed to the framing A and B
of the machine, and the hydrostatic cylinder b is advanced, retained, and forced
up to and immediately under and opposite to each such arrangement by
attaching cords 12 and 13 to said cylinder, as shewn at Figure 1 of Sheet 2.
The cord 12 passes round a drum or barrell 14, which has a spindle 15
passed through it, mounted in suitable bearings attached to the framing; and
upon one end of said spindle a winch handle 16, shewn at Figure 1 of Sheet 3,
is placed for winding the cord 12 upon the drum or barrel 14. The cord 13
passes from the cylinder 6 over a pulley 17, and from thence over another
pulley, not shewn; and there is a weight 18 attached to this end of the
cord 13, the graviating power whereof should be sufficient to slide the
cylinder b, and apparatus attached thereto, along the angular-shaped rails c
when the pin 19 retaining it is withdrawn, and there are holes formed in the
framing A in which said pins are placed, such pins serving as stops to arrest
the cylinder when it has been brought by the action of the weight 18 imme-
diately under one or other of the arrangements in the several compartments
before mentioned; and when said cylinder, has been drawn or slided to
its utmost limit, the attendant winds the cord 12 upon the barrel 14 until
the cylinder, with the framing h, is made to occupy the space denoted
between the red lines, as shewn. The cylinder b is now in a position to com-
mence the first operation of the machine, which is conducted in the following
manner Assuming piston f to be down, and the communications between
the hydrostatic cylinder and any convenient pressure to be shut off, and the
plate or slider moved or travelled upon the rails I, I, so as to afford greater
facility to the attendant to insert the last; the attendant then proceeds to
place within the recessed chamber in the framing h, the last
with the upper
and inner sole after it comes from the lasting machine and is properly lasted;
the bag 20, which is made of non-elastic material, being uninflated during
such time, he next places the outer sole in the proper position over the upper
and inner sole, and shutting off the eduction cock 22, opens the injection
cock 21, when the pressure of water acting upon the piston f, will raise the
same, together with the framing attached thereto, said piston being directed
in its proper course by guide rods 23, fixed to the table g of the piston f.
9,

page_text: The plater, which was before pushed away to enable the attendant to place
the last within the recess in the framing h, is now brought forward, until the
holes 24-therein are brought over the pins 25, as shewn at Figures 1 and 2
of Sheet 4, and at Figure 8 of Sheet 5, and the water is allowed to exert its.
pressure upon the piston f, until the plate is forcibly pressed against the
projections or fillets 26, upon the framings A and B, so as to compress the
outer sole upon the inner solc, to prevent movement thereof during the opera-
tions of piercing, and the plate is connected to the framing h, and retained
in this position by passing keys or cotters through the pins 25; the attendait
then shuts off the injection cock 21, and throws one or other of the clutch'
boxes P, P¹, into gear with that spur wheel which is in the required position
for imparting motion to the spindles or piercers i, i, in a downward direction
though the agency of the cords t, and parts in connection therewith; and when
the frame S has been moved in one direction, the spindles or piercers will
have been forced through the outer and inner soles and upper-leather, by
reason of the screw upon the upper end thereof; and in order to move the
frame S in an opposite direction, the attendant throws the clutch box P out
of gear with the wheel O, and into gear with the wheel M, by which tho
spindles or piercers will be moved in an opposite direction, and thereby effect
the withdrawing of the spindles or piercers from the boot or shoe. The
attendant now stops the machine and opens the eduction cock 22, by which
the piston f, and parts connected thereto, will be lowered, until the under side
of the plate rests upon the projections 1, 1, formed upon the framings
A and B, as shown. The attendant now shuts off the reduction cock 22, and
withdrawing the pin 19, and holds the cylinder b, allows said cylinder and parts
connected thereto to be moved to the next stop or pin, by the gravitating power
of the weight 18. To perform the second operation of screwing, the injection
cock 21 is now opened, and the piston f again raised_until it is arrested by
the projections 26. The cock 21 is then shut off, and the screwed spindles
are set in motion in the manner before described, and the screwed ends thereof
are caused to enter the holes previously formed in the boot or shoe by the
first operation, by which such holes will have a helical grooved channel or
thread cut or formed therein; the direction of these spindles is now reversed,
so as to withdraw the spindles from the holes in the manner before stated,
and the machine is stopped and the piston lowered as before, and the holding
pin being withdrawn the cylinder bis now allowed to move until it arrives
at the next pin or stop, by which it is retained during the performance of
the third operation, which I denominate the filling or inserting process, the
same being effected in the following manner; Assuming, the box u² to be
'

page_text: I
or other
charged with plastic or soluble material or composition, steam
fluid is admitted into the chambers 27 and 28 through the pipe X, for the
purpose of keeping the composition in the box u² in a plastic or soluble
state during the working of the machine, and the bottoms of the holes in
the box are covered by the disconnecting sliding plates 9, as shewn at
Figures and 2 of Sheet 4. These plates are formed with holes, which
correspond exactly with the holes in the box u and plate S, so that when
this last-mentioned plate is brought into contact with the disconnecters,
the attendant shuts off the cock 21, and pulling the handles 10 towards the
box u, the holes in said disconnecters will be brought opposite to the
holes in the box u and plate S, and thereby establish a communication
between the plastic apparatus and the boot or shoe; and upon steam or hot
water being admitted or forced into the flexible bag y, this bag will be
expanded, and pressing upon the surface of the plastic material or composition,
will force the same through the before-mentioned holes in the box u² and
plates and s, and the screwed or plain holes previously formed in the soles
and upper of the boot or shoc. I would, however, remark, that to ensure the
perfect filling of the holes in the boot or shoe, I extract the air contained in
said boles by the process herein-before described with reference to Sheet 1,
and which is performed through pipe or tube 29; this being effected and the
holes in the boot or shoc filled with plastic material, the attendant opens the
eduction cock 22, so as to remove the pressure, and at the same time forces
back the disconnecters q, the effect of which is, to cut through and divide
the plastic material or composition, and by forming the lower part of the
holes in the disconnecters and plate S larger than the upper part thereof, as
the plate leaves the disconnecters it will pull with it as much, or nearly so,
of the plastic material as was contained in the holes of the said disconnecters.
The plate and piston having now descended sufficiently far as before stated,
the holding pin 25 is now removed, and the cylinder and parts connected
thereto allowed to pass to the next stop or pin to perform the fourth opera-
ration, that of putting the beel upon the boot, which is effected in the follow-
ing manner: The attendant now disconnects the plates and s from the sole
of the boot, and slides it upon the projectors 1, 1, in the direction of the
arrow's flight, as shewn; he then places the heel in the proper position thereon,
first removing the superfluous composition from the sole of such part, the
plate 30, which is perforated as shewn at Figure 7 and 10, but not shewn at
Sheet 2, he passes over said heel, and attaches said plate to the framing h, in
a similar manner to that before stated with reference to the plate ". The
injection cock 21 is now opened, and the piston f and plate 30 raised to the

page_text: required height, and the plate is afterwards secured and pressed to the
framing h, by keys or cotters as before mentioned with reference to the plate r.
The spindles or piercers for making the holes through the heel and soles of
the boot are now set in motion in the manner before stated, observing that
it is here necessary to make that part of each of the spindles through and
around which the cords pass, of about twice the diameter to that of the
spindles which pierce the soles, to enable them to pass through the extra
thicknesses; and there are drums 31, fixed upon that part of the shaft K which
is opposite to the compartment Z', to increase the diameter thereof for the
purpose of giving greater travel to the frame 32, to make allowance for
increased diameter and length of the spindles used in this part of the opera-
tion; the spindles are now withdrawn in the manner before stated."
:
And fifthly and lastly, the plastic material or composition is inserted into
said holes in a similar manner to that before stated, but the disconnecting
operation in this last-mentioned plastic apparatus is effected by the use of one
plate 33, which is perforated to correspond with the holes in the plate 30;
the plate 33 is connected to the lever handle 34, which the attendant moves
in the direction of the arrow's flight for the purpose of cutting off the com-
munication between the plastic apparatus and the heel of the boot, and a
reverse movement of the lever handle 34 will establish a coininunication
between such parts, and in this manner the heel of the boot will be attached
to the sole thereof; the piston is now lowered, the plate 33 removed, and the
cylinder with framing containing the boot drawn back, by the attendant
turning round the handle 16, and winding the cord 12 upon the barrel 14,5
which is provided with a pall and ratchet, as shewn. The attendant now
removes the boot to be further operated upon. And in this manner and by
these means I effect the connecting together of certain parts of boots and
shoes. I would remark, in conclusion, that although there is only one set of
spindles shewn at X, the compartment Z', where the heel is attached, that
plain and screwed spindles may be used, enlarging the compartment Z' for
that purpose as found desirable; and I would also remark, that when the
soles to be pierced are thin or light, that one set of spindles will be found
sufficient; but when only one description is used, I prefer to use such as have
a screw thread formed upon them, as shewn at Fig. 9, Sheet
Another part of my improvements relates to and consists of stitching or
sewing the outer soles of boots and shoes, whether composed of one or more
thickness or pieces near and around the edges, as shewn at Figure 11,
Sheet 5, where 1 represents an outer sole so stitched, which is attached to
tho inner sole 2 and upper 3 by the fastenings 4, as shewn, such stitching

page_text: being intended for ornament, as well as connecting the edges when composed
of two or more thicknesses, and not for the purpose of connecting such sole
or soles to the uppers by means of welts as usually adopted in ordinary shoe-
making.
Fourthly, my improvement in the manufacture of boots and shoes consists
in a new mode of arranging, disposing, or connecting the linings or pieces
used for strengthening the uppers along and around the edges or sides of boots
and shoes, and rendering parts of such uppers waterproof, as herein-after
described, and which I perform in the following manner and by the following
means: I take a piece or pieces of leather, of the required shape for the
upper; before or after closing the same, I split or divide in any convenient
manner such parts of the said uppers along the edges nearest the soles which
are to be secured, and having split or divided the same to the required depth,
as represented by the dotted lines 1, Figure 12, Sheet 5, where a marks a
portion of the upper, and b, b, an inserted lining, and bevilled along the
edges c, and which may be of leather or other suitable material, and water-
proofed by an adhesive solution of caoutchouc or other suitable waterproofing
agent, by charging such linings with or in such solution before being inserted,
and which will also have the effect of causing said linings or pieces to adhere
to the split portions of the upper represented at the dotted line, until further
operated upon; this may be performed before or after the uppers have been
closed, and is alike applicable to the front and back parts of uppers, and when
thus prepared, such uppers may either be connected to the inner and outer
soles as herein-before described, or in the usual way and by the usual means.
And I declare this part of my Invention to consist of waterproofing the edges
of uppers, whereby strength is imparted to said uppers, and the necessity of
stitching such parts dispensed with, as described.
Another part of my Invention consists in, and has reference to certain
mechanical arrangements intended more particularly for effecting, firstly, that
description of sewing known as "double stitching," in which two threads or
filaments are required to be passed through one and the same hole, such as is
commonly practised by saddlers and boot-makers, and secondly, for effecting
that description of sewing known as "back and fore stitching," such as is
commonly practised by tailors for the seams of garments.
And in order to explain my said Invention as completely as possible, I will
proceed to describe, first, the nature and principle of this part of my Invention;
and, secondly, the means I employ for carrying the same into practical effect,
reference being had to the illustrative Drawings, Sheets 7, 8, and 9, and to the
several numeral figures and letters of reference marked thereon, that is to say:-

page_text: First, as regards "double stitching," I proceed as follows:-I place the
material to be operated upon in a compound sliding frame hereafter parti-
cularly described and represented; one portion of the frame receives movement
in a vertical direction, and the other portion receives movement in a horizontal
direction; and I place, or dispose and arrange, one needle holder A and its
appurtenances at one side of said compound frame, and two similar needle
holders B, C, at the other and opposite side of said compound frame. Now,
suppose these needle holders to be in the positions exhibited at Figure 5,
Sheet 7 of the Drawings, and one needle to be placed with its point towards
the work in A, and another in B and C, to be empty the said needle holders
and needles are operated upon in the following order :-I first cause a hole to
be made in the material by a piercer suitably placed for that purpose; I then
cause the needle at A to be advanced and pushed partly through the material
by the action of certain cams and rods hereafter described and referred to; this.
needle is then taken hold of, in the opposite side to that at which it entered, by
nippers at C, which draw the needle through the material. The nippers at C
are now moved on one side by the action of certain cams and levers, and the
needle holder B and its needle are at the same time brought opposite to that
hole in the material through which the needle at C has just passed; the
needle at B is now pushed into the said hole, and the point being previously
presented to the work, and is taken hold of on the opposite side of the material
by the nippers at A, which are caused to grip the needle and draw it through
the material. The compound frame before mentioned containing the material
under operation, is now moved a certain distance in accordance with the
design of the sewing or stitching, and the piercer is again brought forward;
and the needle at A being turned over and passed through the material, is:
now taken hold of by the nippers at B, which are moved on one side as
exhibited, and the needle holder and needle at C are again brought forward
and passed through the material, as before stated; and in this manner and by
these means the two needles and their thread or other material employed for
sewing, are successively caused to pass through one and the same hole, and
thereby to perform the operation of "double stitching." Secondly, as regards
"back and fore stitching," I effect the same in the following manner :-instead
of using two needles (as before mentioned in reference to double stitching),
I employ only one needle and two needle-holders, as at A and C, and I
communicate to the frame holding the material, a reversing movement equal
to half its forward or regular travel, and by placing on the spindle Wat
Sheet 8 an additional ratchet wheel, the teeth of which are contrary to these
of the ratchet wheel Z, and supposing these wheels to be alike; and one wheel

page_text: end
·
to be moved forward two teeth, and the needle then passed from one side of
the material to the other wheel by moving in a contrary direction, or backward
one tooth, it will appear evident that the material will be alternately moved
forward and backward, in the ratio of two to one; the upright stud K shewn
at Figure 3 of Sheet 8, will cause the pall i, as it is pulled back by the
spring m, to be brought out of gear with the ratchet wheel, and thereby allow
the other ratchet wheel to be acted upon and advance the compound frame
and material the require distance. At Sheet 8, Figure 1 is a side elevation,
shewn partly in section, of the machine or apparatus above mentioned;
Figure is a sectional plan view thereof as it would appear when divided
through, the line A, B. At Figure 1 and Figure 3 is a side elevation of a
portion of said machine. At Sheet 9, Figure 4 is a side elevation shewn
partly in section, and Figure 5, Sheet 7, is a top plan view of some of the
principal parts of said machine or apparatus, the same being drawn to a scale
of full size, to enable the same to be readily understood and explained. At
Sheet 9, A, A, is the framing of the machine constructed with upright pieces
B; B, which support and carry the following parts :-C is the main driving
spindle, upon
which are placed fast and loose driving pulleys D and E, over
which the strap or band is to be passed in communication with any suitable
prime mover; F is a fly wheel, and G a crank for transmitting motion through
the medium of the rod H to a similar spindle situate at the other and opposite
side of said machine or apparatus. At Figure 2, Sheet 8, A marks that
upright upon which the mechanism A, at Sheet 7, is placed, and B that upon
which the mechanism B and C, at Sheet 7, is placed; the red line 1 denotes
the position of the centre of the needle inserter A, and the lines 2 and 3 shew the
position of the centres of the needle inserters B and C, at Sheet 9, the arrange-
ment of which is clearly shewn at that Sheet, and is as follows:-I is a metal
frame fixed upon B; said frame is furnished with a slide K, upon which the
needle inserters are placed; there is a stud a screwed into the under side of the
slide K, and to said stud the upper end of a vibrating lever L is connected,
the fulcrum whereof is a pin M, and the lower end of the lever L is connected
by the rod N to one end of the other vibrating lever O, whose fulcrum is a
pin at P. It will be seen, upon referring to Figure 4, Sheet 9, that the
opposite end of the lever O is curved and furnished with an adjusting screw Q,
which is acted upon by a cam R fixed upon the spindle C, shewn at Figure 2,
Sheet 8; the lever O has a fork formed thereon, which embraces a pin C fixed
in the rod D; one end of this rod is screwed into a forked rod T, and the
other end, which works in a suitable bearing, is furnished with a helical spring
U, for keeping the bent end of the lever o in contact with the cane R; the

page_text: rod T is securely fixed upon the spindle C, and the forked end of said. rod
embraces a square sliding piece V, upon which are placed and securely fixed
thercon a series of canes 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, shewn at Figure 5, Sheet 7; these canes
are caused to act upon the vibrating levers 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, which are placed
loosely upon the spindle c¹; loose collars a, b, are fixed to this spindle for
keeping the vibrating levers in their proper position; e is an adjustable picco
of metal attached to said levers with which the cams come into contact; f, a
helical spring for bringing back said levers, together with the parts connected
therewith, after the same have ceased to act thereon. At Sheet 8, W is a
spindle having a screw or thread cut about it, which passes through a nut X,
in which a corresponding screw or thread is formed; the spindle W works in
suitable bearings fixed to the framing A, and shewn at Figures 1 and 2,
Sheet 8. Y, Y, mitre wheels keyed upon one end of the spindles W, W¹, for
imparting motion to the nuts placed thereon, said nuts worked between guide
pieces; and to the nuts X, X', cams or inclines Y, Y', are connected in the
manner exhibited. Z is a ratchet wheel keyed upon the spindle. W, for im-
parting motion to the screwed spindle W₁ and nuts X, X'; this is effected
in the manner exhibited at Figure 3, Sheet 8, where g is a vibrating lever,
whose fulcrum is a pin at h; to this lever a palli is connected, which
takes into the serrations upon the edge of the ratchet wheel Z.; and there is
a piece of metal K attached to the lever g by a bolt nut, which admits of
said piece being readily adjusted so as to cause the pall to move through.
more or less space, as may be required; the piece K is acted upon by a
pin or stud t fixed to the wheel F, the rotation whereof imparts reciprocating
motion to the pall i, and rotary motion to the ratchet wheel and parts con-
nected therewith; m is a helical spring for bringing the pall back after the stud
or pin has passed the piece K. In connection with the vibrating levers
6, 7, 8, 9, 10, are the following parts:-At Figures 4 and 5, Sheets 7 and 9, n is
a plate securely fixed to the plate K; the plate n is formed with guide
pieces for retaining and directing the slide o, and parts connected thereto in
their proper course. P is a piece of metal connected to the slide o.by screws,
as shewn at Figure 4, Sheet 9. q, are guide nippers secured fixed to the piece
P, as shown; said nippers have inclines r, r, fixed to or formed thereon, for
the purpose of separating or opening said nippers when necessary. S are
needle holder nippers fixed to the piece P; said nippers are formed with
inclines X, X, for the purpose of releasing the hold of the needle, during the
time that the rod t is pushing forward the needle, and inserting it in the
material; u is a rod having a pin at one end for effecting the separation of
the needle holders v, v; w is a rod for turning the needle holders half an

page_text: entire revolution, so as to present the point of the needle to the material before
passing it through the same; and in order to insure the simultaneous turning
round of both of the needle holders, a pin x is provided, one end whereof is
securely fixed in one of the needle holders, and the other end of said pin
takes into a hole in the other needle holder, as shewn at Figure 5; and there
is a pulley Y fixed upon the arbor of one of the needle holders, as shewn, and
over said pulley a cord passes, one end whereof is fixed to the pulley, and the
other end passes through a hole in one of the guide nippers S, S, and is con-
nected to the rod w, which imparts motion thereto in the manner hereafter
stated; and there is a spring, not shewn, attached to the cord which passes
over the pulley y' for the purpose of returning the pin x in the needle holders
to its original position after the rod w has ceased to act thereon. It will also
be seen, upon referring to Figure 4, that one of the needle holder nippers is
formed with shoulders or projections with which the pin x comes into. contact,
whereby the perfect half revolution of the needle holders and needle is
insured; are guide pieces for directing the several rods passing through
them in their proper course. The operations of this machine or apparatus
are conducted in the following manner-The material to be operated upon
is placed in a frame, shewn at Figure 1 of Sheet 7, and such frame is then
fixed to the frame 12, Sheet 7, by studs taking into holes in the frame, as
shewn; this frame slides in and across another frame a, á, and said last
mentioned frame has a pin 6 attached thereto, which is acted upon by, cam
or incline Y', whereby the frame is. raised and lowered upon the guide
rods c, c; and there is a spring d formed of a piece of elastic attached to
the frame a, a, and one end of a corde is attached to. said spring, and the
other end is fastened to a stud b, as shown; the use of this spring is to
cause the frame 12 to move in an opposite direction to that which the cam Y
moves it. The needle, which is of the ordinary construction, is now threaded
and placed between the holders v, v, as shewn; motion is then given to the
spindle c. and cams 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, connected thereto, and a cam coming into
contact with a lever on the spindle c will effect the pushing forward of the
piercer 13, and bring it into the position denoted by red lines at Figure 4,
and thereby puncture the material; the piercer is then retired or drawn back
by spring 14; and when the point of the piercer has quite cleared the material,
the pin 15 fixed in the spindle 16, coming into contact with the inclined
surface 17, will cause the piercer to be turned into the position exhibited by
black lines at Figure 4; the intention thereof being to take the piercer out
of the way of the other parts, to insure which it is necessary that one end of
the spring 14 be securely fixed to the piece 18, and the other end to the

page_text: spindle 16; the cam 1 must now be brought into action, so as to push forward
the vibrating lever 6 and guide piece o, until the guide nippers 7, 7, are
brought near to the material, as exhibited at Figure 5; the cam 2 is now
caused to act upon the lever 8 and rod u, which brings the pin in contact
with the inclines X, X, and has the effect of releasing the grip of the needle
holders upon the needle; immediately after which another cam 3 is caused to
act upon the vibrating lever 7 and rod t connected thereto, and the opposite
end thereof coming into contact with the head of the needle, will push it
forward until the point thereof enters between the guide nippers, a hole
being formed therein for that purpose, and the pin in the rod u, con-
tinuing to act upon the inclines X, X, will entirely release the needle
from the holders, and enable the inserting rod t to pass freely between
the needle holders; and after the point of the needle has fairly entered
the material, the cam 4 is caused to act upon the vibrating lever 10 and
rod 20 connected thereto, and the pin × in said rod coming into con-
tact with the inclines 7, r, on the guide nippers q, q, will cause them to
be separated, and thereby allow the inserting rod t to pass freely between
them, and the movement of said rod will continue until it has reached
the end of the nippers; the nippers and parts situate on the opposite side
of the material will by this time have been moved forward by cams and
levers acting upon rods similar to those last above mentioned; motion being
imparted thereto by the connecting rod H, and the needle passing freely
between the holders, the cam thereof retires and allows said holders to grip
the needle firmly, and hold it until the slide o is drawn back by the action of
the helical spring f, after which another cam 21 is caused to act upon one
end of a bent lever 22, whose fulcrum is a pin at 23; the upper end of the
lever 22 is furnished with a wheel 24 mounted upon a pin, said wheel is
embraced by one end of a pair of bent levers 25, whose fulcrum is a stud 27,
and to the other end of said bent levers, wheels 28, 29, are attached, same
being covered with an elastic material or substance; the action of the cam 21
and spring 25 x brings these rollers together in forced contact with the
thread, and the rollers 28, 29, are caused to rotate by means of a cord 30
passed around pulleys 31 and 32; the effect of this movement will be to
draw the thread through the material; the thread is prevented from breaking
by placing the cord 30 sufficiently loosely upon the pulley 32 to prevent the
rollers from being turned round after the thread has been entirely pulled
through the material.
At Sheet 8 of my Drawings, Figure 6 exhibits a front elevation; and
Figure 7, a transverse section of the frame I propose to employ in con-

page_text: junction with the compound'sliding frame before mentioned, and in which the
material to be operated upon is placed, as shown, the same being securely held
thereby in the following manner A, A, is a plate of metal, having a curved
slot or opening B, B, formed therein, the shape of which will depend entirely
upon the design of sewing required, for which purpose several of such plates
will be required, and may be substituted in place of each other; at Figure 7,
C is 'another plate of metal of the same size as the plate A, and leaving a slot
formed thereon, of similar shape to that in A; and there are holes formed in
said plates, into which thumb-screws E, E, are inserted, for the purpose of
connecting the two plates together, and keeping the slots therein immediately
opposite each other. The material is placed between said plates, and the
thumb-screws tightened up, and the plates are then placed in the frame 12 at
Figure 1, Sheet 8, and are connected thereto by pins 1, 2, 3, 4, fixed in the
plate A, said pins being inserted in the holes,, in the frame 12, as
exhibited; thus it will be seen that the material to be sewn may be firmly
held at every part through which the needle is required to be passed during
the operation of sewing. And I would remark, that in all instances it will be
found necessary to make the cams Y, Y', (shewn at Figure 1, Sheet 8,) of
similar shape to the slots in the plates A and C, either by forming the edges
thereof of corresponding shape thereto, or by forming slots or
grooves therein,
as exhibited at Y, Figure 1, of Sheet 8, into which the pin b in the frame V
may be placed. And I will remark that this mode of holding the material to
be sewn, and of directing its course during such operation, is alike applicable to
other descriptions of sewing machines; and in the use and application thereof
to such machines I arrange; dispose, and move the material in the manner
exhibited on Sheet 6, where Figures 1 and 2 exhibit a part plan and elevation
of a sewing machine, with the uprights containing the needle and parts immc-
diately connected with it, together with the thread-holder, is cleared way, in
order to show the application of the material holder and parts connected with
it more clearly. A, A, at Figure 6, is an open or skeleton frame to which the
plates X, X, which hold the material connected by pins, in the manner before
described and represented; and to the other part of said frame a moveable
metal template B is connected by pins or screws C, C; and there are pins
D, D, in the frame of the machine, as shewn at Figure 2, which take into the
slots in the template B. Now, supposing the position of the needle to be at
Z, and the frame to be moving in the direction of the arrow's flight, and the
curved slots in the material-holding plates X, X, and template B to be
precisely similar, it will appear obvious that as the slots *, *, in the template
B are moved over the pins D, D, the material-holding plates X, X, will also
1.

page_text: have a precisely similar movement imparted to them and to the material to be
sewn, which is placed between them, and as the needle is moved through it,
and the material holder moved beneath or opposite it, the stitching or sewing
will be effected in the direction and of the contour of the slot in the template
.B; in order, therefore, to insure this result, it is necessary that the shape of
the slot in the material holder X, X, and template B be alike. The frame A
is travilled by the screw 1, which is placed in bearings O, as exhibited, and
passes through the nut 2, Figure 3, which is placed in the slot 3 formed in the
nut-holder 4; and there is á, vibrating lever 5 attached to the framing of the
sewing machine, as shewn, one end whereof is acted upon by a pin-6 affixed to
the wheel 7, and the other end of the lever 5 is in contact with a lover
arm 8 loose upon the end of the screw 1, and said arm moves the said
screw within the nut 2 by making the piece 9. Figure 4 is connected with
the lever. which is in contact with the inner periphery of the wheel 10
out of the centre of the screw 1. The spring 11, shewn at Figure 6, which
is connected to any convenient part of the machine, is for the purpose of
keeping the lever arm always in contact with the vibrating lever 5: Thus
it will be seen, that, as the wheel 7 is turned round, the pin 6, acting upon
the lever 5 and arm 8, will impart motion to the screw 1, and thereby cause
the plates X, X, and material attached thereto to be moved in a direction
corresponding to the curvature of the slots X, X, in the template at B. I
would observe, that although I have only described, set forth, and repre-
sented a needle of the ordinary construction, or single needle with an eye at
one end thereof, I desire it to be understood that I do not intend to limit or.
confine myself exclusively to the use of such needle, but I propose using
in lieu thereof, if necessary,. a double-pointed needle; and the mechanism
before described and referred to for turning the single needle over may be
dispensed with; or, instead of using round needles, as before mentioned and
referred to, I propose to employ a novel form of needle, which will produce
stitching or sewing differring in appearance from that produced by ordinary
needles, and this I effect by making the needle of an angular form; for
example, if made of the shape of a square awl, it will produce in appearance
what is commonly called square-awl stitching; and in using needles of this
form
construct the inserting end of the rod t, before described, with a taper
hole therein, as shewn by dotted lines at t, to protect the point of the needle
from injury, and direct its course during its insertion through the material.
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of my said
Invention, and the manner in which the same is or may be used or carried
into effect, I may observe, in conclusion, that I do not confine or restrict

page_text: myself to the precise details or arrangements which I have had occasion to
describe or refer to, as many variations may be made therefrom without
deviating from the principles or main features of my Invention.
In witness whereof, I have hereunto set my hand and seal, this Tenth
day of March, in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred
and fifty-three.
Signed and sealed by the within-named
Julian Bernard, in the presence of
EDWIN PALEXANDER
JULIAN (L.B.) BERNARD.
Clerks to Messrs. W. & J. II. Johnson,
47, Lincoln's Inn Fields.
AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the Tenth day of March, in the
year of our Lord 1853, the aforesaid Julian Bernard came before our 1
said Lady the Queen in Her Chancery, and acknowledged the Specification
aforesaid, and all and every thing therein contained and specified, in form
above written. And also the Specification aforesaid was stamped according
to the tenor of the Statute made for that purpose.