IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES
Year: 1885

page_text: I, PETER JENSEN, Fel. Inst. P.A. of 33 Chancery Lane in the County of
Middlesex do hereby declare the nature of said invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
SEWING MACHINES (a communication to me from abroad by Gerard Wenzeslaus
von Nawrocki of 124 Leipzigerstrasse Berlin Patent Agent,) to be as follows:-
"3
These improvements partly refer to the peculiar construction and arrangement
of an edge cutting appliance and partly to the peculiar construction of the feed
mechanism or feed lever on a chain stitch machine with armshaped bed-plate, or
so-called cylinder sewing machine.
On account of the restricted space afforded by the armshaped bed-plate, the
cylinder" of such a sewing machine, and the great amount of work required to
be done by such machines up to 5000 stitches per minute it was heretofore
necessary to arrange the feed mechanism in such a manner as not only to render
possible their adjustment within the desired limits and also the adjustment of the
stitch and the easy removal of the edge cutting appliance, but also that the
certainty of the driving mechanism should be perfect. In the machine forming.
the subject of this invention this is attained by that the edge cutting appliance is
driven from an eccentric situated immediately behind the revolving hook, and on
its spindle, while the feed mechanism is driven from an eccentric situated further
away from the revolving hook whereby it becomes possible to place the stitch
regulator quite outside the "cylinder" or arm-shaped bedplate, so that its
dimensions may be kept as small as possible according to the requirements for
instance of sewing hose-shaped goods such as mittens.
All the parts are driven from the main spindle provided with flywheel and
groove pulleys and carrying also four eccentrics; this spindle is carefully mounted
in a bearing at the back part of the frame and in a bearing at the annular front
end of the bedplate or cylinder.
The hindmost or first eccentric next to the flywheel works the needle arm in
the known or usual manner. The two next eccentrics serve to drive the cloth
feed appliance or lever. It obtains its up and down movements entirely from the

page_text: second eccentric and a lever having a curved slot is provided for adjustment of
length of stitch. The third eccentric is only provided for preventing the feathering
of the front extension of the feed lever. The aforesaid stitch adjusting lever is at
its lower end fixed on a spindle mounted in bearings formed in two arms extending
laterally to the left from the bedplate, and is moved there and back from the
second eccentric by a rod, the end of which is adjustable in the aforesaid curved
slot in the stitch regulating lever.
The feed lever is at its outer end jointed in two places to the stitch regulating
lever, and provided with a rectangular slot which receives a block having a hole in
which fits, a boss or lateral extension of the second eccentric whereby thus the feed
lever receives an up and down movement. But the horizontal movement of the
feed lever is effected from the.stitch regulating lever the stitch being regulated by
it as described.
The feed lever has an arm extending through the hollow cylinder to the front of
the machine and is there provided with the roughened shoe or presser foot for
effecting the feed. In order to secure the proper working of this part the said
extending arm is formed with a lateral lug which rests on the third eccentric, while
the part having the slot carrying the aforesaid block is continued out laterally and
formed with an eye through which is passed a screw provided with a broad head
and screwed into the end flange of the cylinder where it can be fixed by means of
a set screw.
This arrangement secures the quiet working of the feed appliance and prevents
unsteady and noisy working when going at an enormous speed.
The edge cutting appliance consists of a knife blade which is adjustably fixed on
the stitching plate, by means of screws and of an oscillating shearing blade which
is carried by a bent lever having a fork end which takes over a fourth eccentric
fixed on the driving spindle. This lever is mounted on a small spindle which
works in two bearings on a plate which is fixed to the side of the cylinder by
means of screws or otherwise so as to be easily detachable therefrom. This little
spindle terminates in a cone point against which the cone point of a screw is
pressed and is by means of a helical spring always pressed towards the right. By
means of the aforesaid screw (which can be jammed in position by means of a
screw passing through its split feathering nut) the spindle with the shearing blade
thereon may thus be pushed along axially. By this means as well as by the
fixed adjustable knife blade the distance of the cut from the line of stitches can be
easily adjusted and the knife blade when adjusted fixed in position by means of a
screw.
By this arrangement of cutting appliance its easy removal is rendered possible
as the small plate and the fixed knife have only to be detached from the cylinder.
Sewing can then be proceeded with in the ordinary manner without cutting the
edges.
The front end of the cylinder has the form of a lid turning on a hinge so that
when this lid is dropped down the book is easily accessible.

page_text: Improvements in Sewing Machines.
I, PETER JENSEN Fel. Inst. P.A. of 33 Chancery Lane in the County of
Middlesex do hereby declare the nature of this invention (a communication to
me from abroad by Gerard Wenzeslaus von Nawrocki of 124 Leipzigerstrasse
Berlin Patent Agent) and in what manner the same is to be performed to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This invention refers to various improvements which are applied to a chain
stitch sewing machine with arm-shaped bedplate or a so-called cylinder sewing
machine.
These improvements mainly refer to the peculiar construction and arrangement
of an edge cutting appliance and to the peculiar construction of the feed mechanism
or feed lever.
With the restricted space afforded by the armshaped bedplate, the "cylinder,"
of such a sewing machine, and with the great amount of work required to be done
by such machines viz: up to 5000 stitches per minute, it was heretofore necessary
to arrange the edge cutting and feed mechanisms in such a manner as not only to
render possible their adjustment within the desired limits and also the adjustment
of the stitch, and the easy removal of the edge cutting appliance, but also that the
certainty of the driving mechanism should be perfect. In the machine forming
the subject of this invention this is attained by that the edge cutting appliance is
driven from an eccentric situated immediately behind the rotating hook and on
its spindle, while the feed mechanism is driven from an eccentric situated further
away from the rotating hook, whereby it becomes possible to place the stitch
regulator quite outside the "cylinder" or arinshaped bedplate, so that its dimensions
may be kept as small as possible according to the requirements for instance of
sewing hose-shaped goods such as mittens.
On the accompanying drawings I have shewn a chain stitch machine constructed
according to this invention, Figure 1 being a side elevation of the machine,
Figure 2 plan, Figure 3 front elevation and Figure 4 a plan section on line A B
Figure 1 Figures 5 are detail views of the feed lever; and Figure 6 detail views
of the edge cutting appliance.
All the parts are driven from the main spindle w provided with flywheel and
groove pulley H and carrying also four eccentrics; this spindle is carefully mounted
in a bearing a at the back part of the frame and in a bearing b at the annular
front end of the bedplate or cylinder C. Instead of the fast pulley H fast and
loose pulleys may be used.
The hindmost or first eccentric 1 next to the fly wheel works the needle arm in
the known or usual manner. The two next eccentrics 2 and 3 serve to drive the
cloth feed appliance or lever. The latter is shown in Figure 5 in plan side view

page_text: and end view, and one part of it i besides separately in end view and side view.
It obtains its up and down movement entirely from the second eccentric 2, and a
lever d having a curved slot is provided for adjustment of length of stitch. The
third eccentric 3 is only provided for preventing the feathering of the front
extension of the feed lever f. The aforesaid stitch adjusting lever d is at its lower
end fixed on a spindle e mounted in bearings formed in two arms extending
laterally to the left from the bedplate, and is moved there and back from the second
eccentric by a rod c, the end of which is adjustable in the aforesaid curved slot in
the stitch regulating lever d.
The feed lever f is at its outer end jointed in two places g and g¹ to the stitch.
regulating lever d and provided with a rectangular slot h which receives a block i
having a hole in which fits a boss or lateral extension of the second eccentric 2
whereby thus the feed lever f receives an up and down movement swinging around
the centres g g¹. But the horizontal movement of the feed lever f is effected from
the stitch regulating lever d the stitch being regulated by it as described.
The feed leverf has an arm f¹ extending through the hollow" cylinder" C to
the front of the machine and is there provided with the roughened shoe or presser
foot for effecting the feed. In order to secure the proper working of this part
the said extending arm f' is formed with a lateral lug k which rests on the third
eccentric 3, while the part having the slot Figure 5 carrying the aforesaid block i
is continued out laterally and formed with an eye o through which is passed a
screw provided with a broad head m Figure 4 and screwed into the end flange of
the cylinder C where it can be fixed by means of a set screw n.
These arrangements secure the quiet working of the feed appliance and prevent
unsteady and noisy working when going at an enormous speed.
The edge cutting appliance is so constructed that it works absolutely correct and
so that the movable shear blade is always pressed against the fixed shear blade
with even spring pressure. The appliance is shewn separately in Figure 6 and
consists of a knife blade which is adjustably fixed on the stitching plate S by
means of screws z and of an oscillating shearing blade p¹ which is carried by a
bent lever q, having a fork end which takes over a fourth eccentric 4 fixed on the
driving spindle w see Figure 6. This lever q is mounted on a small spindle which
works in two bearings 771 on a plate 22 which is fixed to the side of the cylinder C
by means of screws or otherwise so as to be easily detachable therefrom.
This little spindle u terminates in a cone point against which the cone point of
a screws is pressed see Figures 1 and 2 and is by means of a helical spring t always
pressed towards the right. By means of the aforesaid screws (which can be
jammed in position by means of a screw a passing through its split feathering nut)
the spindle with the shearing blade p¹ thereon may thus be pushed along axially.
By this means as well as by the fixed adjustable knife blade p the distance of the
cut from the line of stitches can be easily adjusted and the knife blade,
adjusted fixed in position by means of a screw v Figure 4.
when
By this arrangement of cutting appliance its easy removal is rendered possible as
the small plate 2 and the fixed knife p has only to be detached from the cylinder C.
Sewing can then be proceeded with in the ordinary manner without cutting the
edges.
The front end of the cylinder C has the form of a lid k' turning on a hinge g
as shown in Figures 1 and 3 so that when this lid is dropped down the rotary hook.
is easily accessible.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim as the invention communicated to me is
First. The arrangement shown in Figures 1 and 3 of the fabric cutting appliance
in chain stitch cylinder sewing machines and the driving of the movable shearing

page_text: blade by means of the bent lever shown at Figure 6 from an eccentric directly in
the rear of the rotary hook.
Second. In a chain stitch cylinder sewing machine the construction shown in
Figure 5 of the feed lever ff¹ in one piece and jointed to the slot lever d.
Third. The improved construction of chain stitch cylinder machine as herein
described with reference to the accompanying drawings.