Charts for Drafting Garments.
Year: 1891

page_text: Date of Application, 28th Apr., 1891-Accepted, 30th May,
1891
Charts for Drafting Garments.
I, HENRY GORMAN KENNEDY, Tailor, residing in Fredrick Street in the Town
of Berlin, in the County of Waterloo and Province of Ontario, Canada do hereby
declare the nature of my invention for CHARTS FOR DRAFTING GARMENTS,
and I hereby declare that the following is a full, clear and exact description of
the same:
The object of my invention is to devise a chart for drafting coats and vests by
means of which initial points of the outlines may be marked or placed without
having to resort to the use of construction lines, and it consists essentially of the
device hereinafter more fully explained.
In the drawings
Figure 1, is a plan view of a piece of cloth and chart, showing the several positions
of the chart in marking the points for the width of back on shoulder, scye, upper
shoulder point and gorge.
Figure 2, is a view of the chart one-half full size.
Figure 3. is a view showing the position of the chart in locating the initial points
in the formation of the sleeve. In describing this chart it will be noticed, that I
have given accurate measurement of each scale and locating point shown in the
device illustrated in the drawings, but as it may be possible to alter these
measurements, and still employ the same principle, I do not wish to lay any stress
upon the same.
The chart consists of a rectangular sheet of stiffened paper or other suitable
material nine inches long by six inches wide, on the lower side a, and of an inch
from the junction of the lower side a, and right hand side b, is an indicating point 1.
At that end of the side a, opposite the indicating point 1, is an * 2. On the left
hand side c, 7 inches from the junction of the sides a and c, is an indicating point D,
and a suitable distance above the point D, is a second point M. On the lower
side a, 2 inches from the junction of the sides a and b, is a scale marked K, composed
of ten divisions each of of an inch. On the right hand side b, is a scale marked I,
composed of 5 divisions each of one inch, the divisions marked 11, 12, 13 and 15
are each subdivided into 's whilst the division 14 is divided into 's and marked
scale H. On the upper side d, at a point 2 inches from its junction with a side b,
is a scale B, composed of six divisions, each of of an inch. On the left hand side
at a point of an inch from the junction of the sides a and c, is a scale L, composed
of ten divisions each of of an inch. At a point 3 inches from the lower side a,
and 1 inches from the right hand side b, is the lower end of a scale J, which
extends in an oblique direction to a point of an inch from the top side d, this
scale J, is composed of four divisions each of inches, subdivided into 's. At a
point 3 inches from the lower side a, and 1 inches from the side b, is a scale G,
extending in an oblique direction parallel to the scale J, to a point within an inch
from the top side d, and 24 inches from the right hand side b. This scale G, is
divided into five divisions each of 1 inch subdivided into t's. The slit Q between
scales G and J, is cut away to allow the point to be marked on the material O,
beneath the chart. At a point 3 inches from the lower side a, and an equal
distance from the right hand side b, is the lower point of a scale F, extending in an
oblique line to a point 1 inches from the left hand side c. This scale F, is
composed of five divisions of 1 inch each subdivided into 's. The slit f, similar to
slit is cut away on the right hand side of the scale F. The scale E, beginning
at a point 13 inches from the lower side a, and 3 inches from the right hand side b,
extends in an oblique direction to a point an inch from the left hand side c,
and 4 inches from the top side d. This scale E, is composed of four divisions

page_text: of of an inch each divided into ‡'s, and has a slit e, cut away at its right hand
side similar to slits fand Q. At a point 7 inches from the lower side a, and
1 inches from the left hand side c, is a lower point of a scale C, extending in an
oblique line to a point 1 inches from the left hand side c, and an inch from
the top side d. This scale C, is composed of four divisions of 1½ of an inch each
subdivided into 's and has a slit e cut away on the right hand side similar to the
slits Q, and e.
To outline the coat or vest, a straight line 7, is drawn along the edge of the
material, for the purpose of squaring the device on. The lower side a, of the chart
is placed on the line Z, so that the point 1, and the * 2 rests upon it. Whilst the
device is in its first position the points 1, A, B, C and D are marked. The distance
from 1 to A, gives the width of top of back. The point B, indicates the lower
shoulder point and the distance from A to C gives the width of back at shoulder.
From the point D, whilst the chart is in its first position the straight line D M is
drawn with the side c, as a guide. For the second position the corner formed by
the junction of the sides a and b, placed upon the point D, and the chart is
squared upon the line D M. Whilst the chart is in this position, the point H is
marked, and a straight line is drawn forward from the point H, with the side Das
a guide. For the third position, the corner formed by the junction of the sides a
and c, is placed upon the point H, and the chart is squared upon the line H P.
Whilst the device is in this position the points 1 and J are marked, giving the
initial points respectively for the upper shoulder point and gorge. After the initial
points 1, A, B, C, D, E, F, G, I and J have been located, the construction lines are
sketched in, that is, a line is drawn from 1 to A, from A to C, from B to 1 and
and from 1 to J, and through the points C, E, F, G, and R, after which the outlines
or proper curvatures are drawn. To fit the sleeve to the scye, measure from C
around through E, F, G to B, on the coat draft. This will give with a 12+ shoulder
measure an 18 scye measure. Now draw a squaring line P₁ similar to the squaring
line Z, for the purpose of squaring the chart upon. Now square the chart upon
the line P marking the corner formed by the junction of the sides a and b, O¹, from
the side b, mark off on the scale K, the point 18, and measure along the side b,
from the side a, 1 inches marking it O". Square across from the point 18 on the
scale K, and mark the line 18 K. Now from the point 0¹ measure to this line 18 K,
9 inches (being of the 18) this will give the point d' for the front of the sleeve.
Square down from the point d' by the corner M, and mark 18 on the scale L.
Draw a line from the point d to the initial point O' cutting the line 18 K at f.
Now sweep from the point 0¹ to the point d, and from the point O", 11 inches
from the point O', sweep around to d¹ crossing the line 18 K, of an inch forward
off and dropping 14 inches below the line 18 K.
It will be seen from the foregoing description, that only the initial points are
located by my improved system after which the construction lines are sketched in
by means of a straight edge and then the proper curvatures are drawn. It will also
be noticed that the combination of the point i, and the scale A, gives the points for
the width of the top of back. The combination of the point 1, and scale G, gives
the width of back at shoulder. The scale B, locates the lower shoulder point, and
combination of the scales E, F and G gives the scye or arm-hole points, whilst the
scale 1, gives the upper shoulder point and the point J, the gorge point.
Having thus fully described my invention what I claim as new and desire to
secure by Letters Patent is ;-
A chart for drafting garments, comprising a rectangular strip having extended
from a point near its top edge an oblique slit e', with a scale C arranged upon one
side thereof, the lower edge a, provided with an indicating point 1, the right hand
side b, with a scale A, and the upper edge with a scale B, the latter for locating the
lower shoulder point, and the distance from A to C determining the width of the
back at shoulder, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
2. A chart for drafting garments comprising a rectangular strip, having series of

page_text: oblique slits Q, and e, with scales or graduated marks G, F and E, upon the left
thereof, for indicating the initial points for the scye, substantially as and for the
purpose set forth.
3. A chart for drafting garments, comprising a rectangular strip, having a scale I,
upon its right hand side, and an oblique slit Q extending from a point near its top
edge, said slit having arranged upon the right hand bordering edge a scale J, given
points upon the scales L and J determining the initial points for the upper shoulders
and gorge, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
4. A chart for drafting garments comprising a rectangular strip, having a series
of oblique slits Q, and e with scales or graduated marks G, F, and E, upon the
left hand bordering edge for indicating the initial points of the scye, said chart also
provided at its lower edge a, with a scale K, and upon its left hand edge with a
scale L, said last mentioned scales determining the points for fitting the sleeve to
the scye, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
5. A chart for drafting garments, comprising a rectangular strip having an
oblique slit Q, with graduated marks upon the opposite bordering sides of said slit,
and also having a series of similar slits, c, and e, with graduating marks upon one
bordering side, the lower edge a, of the outliner provided with a scale K, and
indicating points 1 and 2, the right hand side or edge with a scale B, and the left
hand edge with indicating points M and D and the scale L, substantially as and for
the purpose set forth.
Dated this 28th day of April 1891.
WHITE & WOODINGTON,
27, Southampton Buildings, Agents.