IMPROVEMENTS IN FANCY WEAVING, AND IN THE APPARATUS EMPLOYED FOR SUCH PURPOSES."AL
Year: 1875

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Henry Tootal Broadhurst, of the Firm of Tootal,
Broadhurst, Lec, and Company, Manufacturers, of Newton Heath,
in the County of Lancaster, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS
IN FANCY WEAVING, AND IN
THE APPARATUS EMPLOYED FOR SUCH
PURPOSES."
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Henry Tootal Broadhurst
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition,
on the 17th August 1875.
I, HENRY TOOTAL BROADHURST, of the Firm of Tootal, Broadhurst,
Lec, and Company, Manufacturers, of Newton Heath, in the County
of Lancaster, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention
for "IMPROVEMENTS IN FANCY WEAVING, AND IN THE APPARATUS EMPLOYED For
SUCH PURPOSES," to be as follows:-
This Invention relates to a peculiar style of faucy weaving by means
of a jacquard loom, wherein the fabric is partly leno or cross weaving,
and partly plain cloth weaving with a floated figure or pattern.

page_text: entirely with healds and vibrators.
The jacquard machine has three sets of hooks, and three corresponding
sets of "couplings," "mails," and "lingoes," each set of strings passing
through its own separate "comber board," the front set of hooks works
the leno threads; the middle or ordinary hooks work the harness for the
plain cloth and floated pattern; and the back set are mercly for working
a set of heavy "lingoes" at the back of the loom for a purpose herein-
after explained.
"
"
The warp is drawn through the reed, two or more ends in a dent, and
through the ordinary jacquard or central harness it is drawn in singly
(that is, each thread passes singly through its own mail), so that it can
weave plain cloth with a floated pattern in the ordinary way. Through
the front set of mails the warp is drawn in double (or more than two
together in a group), half of the warp only being drawn in, and the
other half passing freely through between the mails. These front mails
are furnished with a "doup or "slip heald on one bottom shaft only,
similar to those employed for ordinary leno weaving, the groups of
threads being drawn in through these "doups" as in ordinary cross
weaving," so that each group of leno threads can be crossed to the left
or right of the group of ground threads next to it (which pass freely
through as before stated), so as to form an open leno or lace fabric.
The "mails" for these "doups" instead of being formed with two eyes,
through which the doup threads have to be passed separately by a
needle, I make with one long oval eye, through which the double loop
of the "doup" or slip is passed at once, thus saving a great amount of
time in "gating" the loom. These oval mails are also more durable,
and are applicable to all kinds of leno or cross weaving.
رو
In order to keep the leno threads always at a proper tension, whether
they are "crossing" or not, I pass them at the back of the ordinary
harness through a set of "mails" before mentioned attached by strings
to levers on the jacquard machine, cach hook having its own separate
lever, and each mail having a heavy "lingoe attached to it. These
mails hang between two transverse bars or a "bridge" fixed to the loom
framing at each end, and as the "lingoes" hang on the leno warp
threads they take up any slack threads and draw them down between
the bars, and thus the threads are all kept at a proper state of tension,

page_text: €6
"
whether crossing or not. The front and back row of holes on the
pattern cards are made to correspond, and thus the front and back
mails work together, so that when any group of threads is required to
cross or' "leno" its corresponding "lingoe" is lifted by the jacquard
machine and slackens the warp, but when the same group is not required
to " cross its back "lingo" is stationary and not lifted, and hangs
down between the two bars or bridge, thus preventing the threads from
becoming slack, and so keeping the shed perfectly clear for the passage
of the shuttle.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Henry Tootal Broadhurst in the Great Seal
Patent Office on the 17th February 1876.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, HENRY
TOOTAL BROADHURST, of the Firm of Tootal, Broadhurst, Lee, and
Company, Manufacturers, of Newton Heath, in the County of Lancaster,
send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Seventeenth day of August, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-five, in the
thirty-ninth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and suc-
cessors, give and grant unto me, the said Henry Tootal Broadhurst,
Her special license that I, the said Henry Tootal Broadhurst,
my exccutors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the
said Henry Tootal Broadhurst, my executors, administrators, and
assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to
time and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed,
should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the
United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands,
and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN FANCY WEAVING, AND
IN THE APPARATUS EMPLOYED FOR SUCH PURPOSES," upon the condition
(amongst others) that I, the said Henry Tootal Broadhurst, my
executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or
their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and
ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the
same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great

page_text: Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately
after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Henry Tootal Broadhurst, do
hereby declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascer-
tained in and by the following statement and accompanying Drawings:-
This Invention relates to a peculiar style of fancy weaving by means
of a jacquard loom, wherein the fabric is partly leno or cross weaving,
and partly plain cloth weaving with a floated figure or pattern.
Such being the nature and object of my said Invention I will now
proceed to describe in detail the manner in which the same is to
be or may be performed or carried into practical effect; and in order
that the same may be clearly understood, I have annexed hereunto a
Sheet of Drawings illustrative thereof, and have marked the same with
figures and letters of reference corresponding with those in the following
explanation thercof:-
Fig. 1 on the Drawing represents a vertical section of the working
parts of a jacquard loom with my Invention shown as applied thereto.
a, a, is the framing of the loom; b, b, the warp beam; c, c, the back
bearer; d, d, the lathe; e, c, the jacquard machine; ff, the breast
beam; and g, g, the cloth beam.
I employ only one warp beam b, b, for the whole warp, and I dispense
entirely with the healds and vibrators.
The jacquard machine e, c, has three sets of hooks, and three corre-
sponding sets of "couplings," "mails," and "lingocs," each set of
strings h, h, i, i, k, k, passing through its own separate "comber board,"
the front set of hooks coupled to the strings h, h, works the leno
threads; the middle or ordinary hooks coupled to the strings i, i, work
the harness for the plain cloth and floated pattern; and the back set
coupled to the strings, k, are merely for working a set of heavy.
“ lingoes 1, 1, at back of the loom for a purpose herein-after
explained.
22
The warp is drawn through the reed m, m, two or more ends in a dent,
and through the ordinary jacquard or central harness i, i, it is drawn in
singly (that is, cach thread passes singly through its own mail), so that

page_text: it can weave plain cloth with a floated pattern in the ordinary way.
Through the front set of mails h, h, the warp is drawn in double (or
more than two together in a group), half of the warp only being drawn
in and the other half passing freely through between the mails. These
front mails are furnished with a "doup" or "slip" heald n, n, on one
bottom shaft o, o, only (see detached view, Fig. 2), similar to those
employed for ordinary leno weaving. The bottom shaft is lifted by the
jacquard every revolution to case all the doups or slips, the groups of
threads being drawn in through these "doups" as in ordinary "cross
weaving," so that each group of leno threads can be crossed to the left
or right of the group of ground threads next to it (which pass freely
through as before stated), so as to form an open leno or face fabric.
The "mails" for these "doups" instead of being formed with two eyes,
through which the doup threads have to be passed separately by a
needle, I make with one long oval eye, see Fig. 3, through which the
double loop of the " doup" or "slip n, n, is passed at once, thus
saving a great amount of time in "gating" the loom. These oval mails
are also more durable, and are applicable to all kinds of leno or cross
weaving.
"
In order to keep the leno threads always at a proper tension, whether
they are crossing or not, I pass them at the back of the ordinary
harness through a set of mails before mentioned attached by strings
, k, to levers p, p, on the jacquard machine e, e, each hook
having its own separate lever, and each mail having a heavy lingoc
attached to it. These mails hang between two transverse bars q, q,
or a bridge fixed to the loom framing at each end, and as the "lingoes"
hang on the leno warp threads they take up any slack thread and draw
them down between the bars q, q, and thus the thread are all kept at
a proper state of tension, whether "crossing" or not. The front and
back row of holes on the pattern card are made to correspond, and
thus the front and back mails work together, so that when any group
of threads is required to "cross" or "leno" its corresponding lingoe
is lifted by the jacquard machine e, e, and slackens the warp, but
when the same group is not required to cross its back lingoe \ is
stationary and not lifted, and hangs down between the two bars or
bridge q, q, thus preventing the threads from becoming slack, and so
keeping the shed perfectly clear for the passage of the shuttle.
Having now described the nature and object of my said Invention,

page_text: together with the manner in which the same is to be or may be
performed or carried into practical effect, I wish it to be distinctly under-
stood that I claim as my Invention,―
First. Arranging the jacquard machine with three sets of hooks, and
three corresponding sets of couplings, mails and lingoes, the front set of a
which work the leno threads, the middle set the warp for the plain cloth
and floated pattern, and the back set the lingoes corresponding with the
leno threads.
Secondly. The peculiar formation of the doups or slip healds and
their oval mails, as described and represented on the Drawings.
Thirdly. The use of the back lingoes hanging on the leno threads
between two bars or a bridge, and worked by the back row of holes on
the pattern cards, which correspond with the front row of holes which
work the leno threads.
]
In witness whereof, I, the said Henry Tootal Broadhurst, have 1
hereunto set my hand and seal, this Sixteenth day of February,
in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and
seventy-six.
H. TOOTAL BROADHURST. (L.S.)
Witnessed by
JOHN HUGHES,
Clerk to George Davies, C.E.,
Patent Office,
4, St. Ann's Square,
Manchester.