Improvements in the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes and in Apparatus therefor.
Year: 1892

page_text: Date of Application, 29th Aug., 1892
Complete Specification Left, 27th June, 1893-Accepted, 5th Aug., 1893
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes and in
Apparatus therefor.
I, CHARLES EVANS BIRD, of 111, Overstone Road, Northampton, in the
County of Northampton, Sewer to the Boot and Shoe Trade, do hereby declare
the nature of this invention to be as follows:―
This invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of machine-made
boots and shoes and in apparatus therefor, the improvements being more
particularly applicable to the manufacture of that class of boots and shoes in
which the uppers are turned outwardly from the last at the point of contact with
the sole, the object of my improvements being to produce machine-made boots and
shoes which shall have the advantage and appearance of hand-made goods.
According to my invention the upper of the boot or shoe is turned outwardly
from the last over the sole, as above mentioned, and I then apply over the
outwardly turned portion of the upper a strip of leather or other suitable material
which forms a kind of welt. In order to apply this welt, and to stitch it to the
upper and sole, I employ what I term a welt-guide which is advantageously con-
structed to be screwed or otherwise attached to the stitching table or work-support
of a suitable boot sewing, stitching or other machine in such a manner that as the
work is fed forward my so-called welt will be laid in proper position over the
outwardly turned portion of the upper and will be stitched or otherwise secured to
the upper and sole. My welt-guide is made adjustable so that it can be adapted to
suit different widths of welts.
Dated this 20th ton of Aunt
1000
G. F. REDFERN & Co.,
4, South Street, Finsbury, London, Agents for the Applicant.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes and in
Apparatus therefor.
1, CHARLES EVANS BIRD, of 111, Overstone Road, Northampton, in the
County of Northampton, Sewer to the Boot and Shoe Trade, do hereby declare
the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to
be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This invention relates to improvements in apparatus for the manufacture of
machine-made boots and shoes and particularly of that class of boots and shoes in
which the uppers are turned outwardly from the last at the point of contact with
the sole and have over the outwardly turned portion a strip of leather forming a
kind of welt, the object of my improvements being to provide means whereby the
said strip or welt can be placed in proper position over the said outwardly turned
portion of the upper while being stitched or otherwise secured to the upper
and sole.
According to my invention I employ what I term a welt-guide which is advan-
tageously constructed to be screwed or otherwise attached to the stitching table or
work-support of a suitable boot stitching machine in such a manner that as the
work is fed along the welt will be laid in proper position over the outwardly turned
portion of the upper. My welt-guide is advantageously made adjustable so that it
can be adapted to suit different widths of welts.

page_text: To enable my invention to be fully understood I will describe how it can be
carried into practice by reference to the accompanying drawing, in which :-
Figures 1 and 2 are respectively a plan and a side view of the stitching-table or
work-support of a Keats' boot-stitching machine provided with a welt-guide
according to my invention, a portion of a boot or shoe being shewn in connection
therewith:
Figure 3 is an end view of the said stitching-table :
Figures 4 and 5 are respectively a plan and an elevation of a portion of the
welt-guide detached from the stitching-table:
Figures 6 and 7 are a plan and an elevation shewing the application of my welt-
guide to the stitching-table of a Goodyear boot-stitching machine; and,
Figures 8 and 9 are respectively similar views to Figures 6 and 7 shewing the
application of my welt-guide to the stitching-table of a Ramsden and Ellis boot-
stitching machine.
Similar reference letters indicate similar or corresponding parts throughout the
drawings.
a, 6 indicate the two parts of my welt-guide and c the stitching-table or work-
support to which it is secured.
In the arrangement- shewn in Figures 1 to 3, the part a is a plate which is
adjustable relatively with the stitching-table or work-support e and can be held in
position by means of the set-screw & passing through a slot d in the plate and into
the table c, the said position being determined by the width of the welte which
lies upon that part of the stitching-table between its outer edge and the edge g
of the plate à. The part of the welt-guide shewn in the said Figures 1 to 3
(which part is shewn detached in Figures 4 and 5) consists of a bar fixed to the
table and having a portion cut away so as to form an opening through which
the welt e passes, the part of the bar above the said opening preventing the welt
from rising off the table c as it is fed along to be stitched onto the outwardly
turned portion i of the upper j and the sole k.
C
When using my welt-guide the upper and sole to be stitched to the welt are
placed in the usual position relatively with the stitching-table, as shewn in
Figures 1 and 2, the welt being in the proper position upon the outwardly turned
portion of the upper to be stitched to the said portion i and to the sole k.
In Figures 6 and 7 the part a is formed integral with the table
C,
it being found
in practice more advantageous when using a Goodyear machine to employ a series
of tables having the said part a at different distances from the edge to suit
different widths of welts. The part is shaped as shewn and connected to the
table by screws 1, 1.
In Figures 8 and 9 the parts a and bare formed integral with one another and
with the table c, and in this case a series of tables is employed.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is
1. The combination with the stitching-table or work-support of a boot-stitching
machine of a guide, substantially as, and for the purpose, described.
2. The improved stitching-tables or work-supports for boot-stitching machines
herein before described and illustrated respectively in Figures 1 to 5, Figures 6
and 7 and Figures 8 and 9 of the accompanying drawing.
Dated the 27th day of June 1802
G. F. REDFERN & Co.,
4, South Street, Finsbury, London, Agents for the Applicant.