Improvements in Hat Brim Shaping (and Curling) Presses.
Year: 1895

page_text: Date of Application, 6th Dec., 1895-Accepted, 21st Nov., 1896
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Hat Brim Shaping (and Curling) Presses.
We, HENRY HERBERT TURNER, ALBERT TURNER and ARNOLD TURNER,
all of Turner Street, Ashton Road, Denton, near Manchester, in the County of
Lancaster, Hatters' Machinists, do hereby declare the nature of our said invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement :-
for
Our improvements refer to hat brim shaping (and curling) presses as used in the
manufacture of felt hats for imparting the shape (and curl) or "set" to the brim,
and our improvements have for their object chiefly to adapt such presses
shaped or
shaping (and curling) the brims of silk and similar hats having a "bell
enlarged crown, which has hitherto prevented the use of existing presses for
shaping the brim, owing to the enlarged portion of said hats being unable to pass
through the shaping (or curling) frame ring, and still allow the brim to be entirely
supported by the usual curling irons or "matrice."
Our improvements also have for their object to make the curling irons of such
presses, or ordinary presses (whether for shaping felt or silk hat brims) of
aluminium, or an alloy of aluminium, and thereby to render such irons (which are
removed each time a hat is shaped (or curled)) lighter to handle or manipulate, and
less liable to break than existing irons; and, moreover, to enable the irons to be
more expeditiously removed from the brim of a hat after curling, or for the felt to
more rapidly conform to the shape of said irons when under pressure than
heretofore, as we find that the said metal, (which possesses a slippy,"
saponaceous' or "lubricative surface-especially when wet or damp from
contact with a hot and softened steamy hat brim) greatly assists, or helps in the
removal of the irons from the brim, or vice-versa, allowing the brim to slide more
readily on, or off, than iron or steel. Furthermore such metal under pressure adds
considerable smoothness and finish to the hat brim.
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By reason of its non-rusting properties, aluminium ensures of the hats not being
soiled or stained by the presence of steam or water, and being of a workable nature
the said metal can be very readily treated, and operated upon in the making of the
irons, and readily cast or altered to the required shapes.
Our improvements also embrace the making of the usual cover plate of the
curling irons or "matrice" with a sharp, or knife-like edge, and of applying to
the underside of such cover plate (separately, or in combination with the said
sharpened edge) an edging or apron of flexible material, whereby to prevent the
marking, or disfigurement of a bat brim or the damaging of the pressure bag by
the existing blunt edged cover plate.
And in order that our said invention shall be the more readily understood and
carried into practical effect we have hereunto annexed a sheet of drawings, in
which Fig. 1 is a transverse section of the curling frame ring, base, and "matrice"
of a hat brim shaping (or curling) press, and Fig. 2 is a longitudinal section.
Fig. 3 illustrates a detail on an enlarged scale.
In accordance with the first part of our improvements, which relates more
particularly to the adaptation of felt hat presses for curling the brims of silk and
similar shaped hats, we divide the curling frame ring into halves (A) and (B), one
half (A) (by preference) fixed or stationary, and the other half (B) movable, and
capable of sliding to and from the stationary half in a horizontal direction. This
movable half (B) is mounted in V or other suitable slides formed on extensions of

page_text: the stationary half (A), and under the impulses of suitable operating mechanism,
such as a foot treadle (C), lever (D), and eccentric (E) moves backwards, or
forwards on such slides. In so doing the opening for the reception of the body of
a hat can be enlarged, and thus allow of the passage of a "bell" shaped hat body,
and after the "bell" or larger portion has passed through, be closed again to the
diameter of the narrower or "band" part for curling the brim. The curling iron
base (F) may also be split or divided at (G); and each half pegged on to the
aforesaid halves of the curling frame ring and moving therewith. Upon the
respective halves of the said base are the usual curling irons, or half portions (H)
and (H) of the "matrice," which are each pegged on to the base (F).
The position of the parts before a hat is treated is as shewn in the drawings,
with curling frame ring, base and "matrice" all closed. To now shape or curl a
hat brim the foot treadle (C) is depressed so separating the half-portions of the
ring, base and "matrice" in the direction of the arrow (J) and enlarging the
opening for the hat body. The hat is then passed through until the narrower or
"band" part of hat is on a level with the "matrice" when the treadle is "let
go," so allowing the half portions under the influence of a weight (see Fig. 2), or
a strong spring (1) to close together again, and support the hat brim for shaping
and curling.
To remove the hat after treatment the "matrice" is first lifted clear of the peg
holes in the base (F), and with it the hat, and then the treadle is depressed, so
separating the balf portions of the base and ring again until sufficient room is made
for the outlet of the hat body, which is then raised and entirely removed.
"
Having removed the hat from the press it remains for the curling irons or
"matrice to be removed from the brim, and with such irons or "matrice" made of
aluminium it is a very easy task, and can be done with great rapidity. It will be
obvious at this point that the hat having to be sustained by the hands of the
operator with the irons in the brim, whilst the frame ring is separated, the use of
aluminium greatly lessens the weight which he would otherwise have to hold.
The means for separating the parts of the frame ring may be varied. In lieu of
sliding apart, the half-portions of the frame ring and base may be hinged
eccentrically, and arranged to turn up or down, vertically or horizontally, for
enlarging the curling frame opening, but we prefer them to slide apart as
aforesaid.
"
In accordance with the further features of our improvements relating to the
cover plate (K) we give to such plate a " feather or knife-like edge as shewn
at (X) in Fig. 1, as heretofore the blunt, or square edge, has marked the substance
of the hat brim, and by giving the plate a thin edge we find that not the least sign
of disfigurement of the hat material is visible. Alternatively, or in addition to
the sharp edge given to the cover plate, or in combination with existing blunt
edged cover plates, and for the same purpose, we provide an edging or apron of
flexible material (K') (by preference, thin sheet india-rubber), and we mount such
edging on the underside of the cover plate, which, as illustrated more clearly in
Figs. 1 and 2, when the hat is under pressure, wraps round or under the curling
irons, and so, in essence, constitutes a continuation of the cover plate, and gives a
true curl to the hat brim besides entirely preventing the marking of the hat.
Having thus particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we
claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent is :-
"
"
1st. In machines or presses for shaping, curling or imparting a
"set to the
brim of a hat, the use of a divided shaping or curling frame ring (and base) with
one, or both of its parts arranged to separate as and for the purposes set forth.
2nd. In machines, or presses for shaping, curling or imparting a "set to the
brim of a hat, the combination and arrangement of parts herein described, and
illustrated on the annexed drawings.
3rd. The "matrice' "
or curling irons of a hat brim shaping or curling press made

page_text: of aluminium, or an alloy of aluminium, whereby to permit of the more ready removal
thereof from the hat brim,-to ensure against the soiling of the felt,-and to render
said irons lighter to handle, as set forth.
4th. The cover plate of hat brim curling irons with a knife-like edge, as set
forth.
5th. Combined with said sharp edged cover plate, or ordinary blunt edged plates,
the use of a flexible edging or apron as and for the purposes set forth.
Dated this 5th day of December 1895.
JOHN G. WILSON & Co.,
Agents.