IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MODE OF AND APPARATUS FOR KNITTING
Year: 1861

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Henry McNary, of Brooklyn, in the State,
of New York, and United States of America, but now residing at
Manchester, in the County of Lancaster, Machinist, for the Invention of
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Henry McNary
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with bis Petition, on the
4th April 1861.
I, WILLIAM HENRY MCNARY, of Brooklyn, in the State of New York, and
United States of America, but now residing at Manchester, in the County of
Lancaster, Machinist, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention
for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MODE OF AND APPARATUS FOR KNITTING," to be as
follows:-
This Invention relates to improvements in the mode of and apparatus for
knitting, set forth in the several Patents of A. V. Newton, dated January
20th, 1857, and W. E. Newton, February 18th, 1860, and October 6th, 1860,
and being communications from myself.
The chief object of the present Invention is to improve the manufacture of
knitted hose by producing more perfect articles than have been heretofore
attainable, and to effect a great economy in the manufacture.

page_text: I will first describe the several improvements which I propose to introduce
in the process of knitting, and I will then describe the improved machinery
which I prefer to employ in carrying out these objects.
In order to give fullness suitable for forming the calf of a stocking, I accu-
mulate loops at that part by knitting backward and forward courses of either
regular or irregular lengths, and I thus produce a bagging in the fabric similar
in effect to what would be obtained by the insertion of a gore, but without
forming a seam. When knitting stockings with a calf after this fashion on
machines having a circular or endless series of needles, I apply the mechanism
thereto hereafter described. This mode of knitting applies also to other and
well-known knitting machines, the principle being the introduction of short
and long zig-zag courses into the work.
For forming the toe and heel I also propose to knit backward and forward
courses of irregular lengths; thus, if the main part of the hose contains a
given number of stitches in one course, the irregular parts will receive a less
but irregular number of stitches forming backward and forward courses, the
length and number of which will vary according to the form required for the
toe or heel.
In order to effect an economy of labor in the manufacture of stockings or
socks on my improved machinery containing a circular or endless series of
needles, I propose to form the toe of a fresh hose upon the end of that which
precedes it; thus, when the last course of the main part of the hose is finished,
the too of the new hose is formed by a number of backward and forward
courses of knitting, as above described.
When this is completed the hose first
made is brought up over the needles and the loops are removed therefrom,
and in place of these the loops of the toe piece adjoining the completed hose
are placed upon the needles. The circular knitting then proceeds to form the
continuation of the foot. The finished hose is to be separated from the next
following hose by cutting the thread of the last course.
In carrying out the aforesaid system of knitting backward and forward
courses of irregular lengths I propose, in some cases to throw into use a
greater or less number of needles, so that the irregular forms may be varied
breadthwise as well as lengthwise of the stocking. This system of operation.
applies also where the loops are all made on one needle.
Another mode in which I propose to vary the width of circular work is to
give a forward and backward axial movement to the ring of needles of the
circular knitting machine, somewhat short of a complete rotation, for the.
purpose of forming edges lengthwise of the work; which edges can afterwards
be joined, and thus contract the hose at that part, thereby reducing its

page_text: diameter to any required degree below what is due to the entire circle of
loops.
As another improvement in the mode of knitting the irregular parts of
hosiery, such as the toe; heel, or calf, I propose to form a double stitch at the
end of each course of knitting for the purpose of preventing the recurrence
of openings or weak places at those parts where the change has taken place at
cach end of the course, that is, I form a double stitch every time the direction
of the course is changed for the purpose of knitting a course in an opposite
direction to the then completed course, which last double stitch I obtain in the
following manner:-When commencing to lay the yarn for a new course I
first draw the yarn around the needle which holds the last loop of the last
course, and then proceed as in the ordinary manner.
In order to finish the legs of socks or stockings manufactured on my circular
knitting machine, and prevent their unravelling or requiring a rib to be
worked on as is usual, I propose to introduce a line of chain stitches at the
extremity of the hose. This I effect by the use of a forked piece or finger,
which will when brought into action lift each loop in succession from its
needle, and as the ring of needles moves forward in its rotation place the
raised loop upon the next needle; the effect of this will be that when a new
course following this distribution of the loops is made, a chain or lock stitch is
produced around the edge of the work.
In my improved machinery already patented, I have used a studded cylinder
for operating through a switch lever the rotating needle ring, so as to produce
the irregular work for the heel and toe of half hose. I now propose by means
of a cylinder suitably studded to accumulate courses as above described, to
form also the calf of a stocking. The cylinder will in this case have three
sets of studs to operate the switch lever, and by preference I give it a longi-
tudinal motion, as well as an axial motion. For this purpose I mount the
cylinder loosely on its shaft, and attach thereto a spur wheel, into which a long
spur pinion gears. On the cylinder shaft I also mount loosely a grooved cam
which carries an escape wheel, and I couple the escape wheel and cylinder
together by projections entering an annular groove in the cylinder, so that the
latter can revolve independently of the cam, but will be controlled longi-
tudinally thereby. The groove of the cam is so shaped that a bowl entering
it carried by a fixed arm will cause the cam and cylinder to move longi-
tudinally as rotary motion is given to the cam, and thus shift the studs as
required into or out of contact with the switch lever. Rotary motion is given
to the cam by means of a pin projecting from the face of a disc keyed to the
axle of the long spur pinion. The escape wheel is formed with notches to

page_text: receive in succession the disc pin, which imparts by its rotation motion to the
escape wheel, and between the notches the periphery of this wheel is hollowed
to receive the axle of the disc, whereby a locking movement is produced. To
allow of the wheel being unlocked a portion is cut away from the driving axle,
so that when that portion is presented to the wheel the wheel will be unlocked
and free to make a partial rotation. This intermittent axial motion of the
escape wheel will bring the different steps in the cam groove in succession up
to the fixed bowl, and thus ensure the shifting of the cylinder in the direction
of its axis to throw the several sets of studs in their proper order into and out
of line with the switch lever, which lever, as before stated, controls the axial
motion of the ring of knitting needles.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said William. Henry McNary in the Great Seal Patent Office on
the 4th October 1861.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, WILLIAM
HENRY MCNARY, of Brooklyn, in the State of New York, and United States
of America, but now residing at Manchester, in the County of Lancaster,
Machinist, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Fourth day of April, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-one, in the twenty-fourth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the
said William Henry McNary, Her special license that I, the said William
Henry McNary, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as
I, the said William Henry McNary, my executors, administrators, and assigns,
should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at
all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully
might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention
for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MODE OF AND APPARATUS FOR KNITTING," upon the
condition (amongst others) that I, the said William Henry McNary, by
an instrument in writing under my hand and seal, should particularly describe
and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the
same was to be performed; and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal
Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the date
of the said. Letters Patent..

page_text: NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said William Henry McNary, do hereby
declare the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is
to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement, reference being had to the Drawings hereunto annexed,
and to the letters and figures marked thereon (that is to say) :-
This Invention relates to "Improvements in the Mode of and Apparatus for
Knitting, as set forth in the Specifications of the several Patents of Alfred
Vincent Newton and William Edward Newton, dated respectively January
Twentieth, One thousand eight hundred and fifty-seven, February Eighteenth;
One thousand eight hundred and sixty, and October Sixth, One thousand
eight hundred and sixty, and being communications from myself.
The chief object of the present Invention is to improve the manufacture of
knitted hose by producing more perfect articles than have heretofore been
readily attainable, and to effect a great economy in the manufacture of knitted
goods.
I will first describe, seriatim, the several improvements which I propose
to introduce in the process of knitting, and I will then describe the improved
machinery which I prefer to employ in carrying out these objects.
My first improvement consists of a mode of giving fullness to the leg of a
stocking suitable for forming the calf. To this end I accumulate loops at
that part by knitting backward and forward or zig-zag courses of either
regular, progressive, or irregular lengths, and I thus produce a bagging of the
fabric similar in effect to what would be obtained
the insertion of a gore,
:
./
but without forming a seam.
In the accompanying Drawings, Fig. 1, Sheet I., shews one mode of
effecting this improvement, the courses being indicated by a series of parallel
lines.. This work may be produced either on the common stocking, frame or
on the circular knitting machine described in the Specification of the Patent
of William Edward Newton, before referred to, and dated October Sixth, One
thousand eight hundred and sixty. The Figure illustrates the mode of pro-
ducing the work on the circular machine. Supposing the work to be made
on the common stocking frame, the attendant, when coming to the part of the
leg where the additional work is to be introduced, instead of throwing the
thread across the machine as before, will now limit its course, stopping it a
little beyond the centre of the work and return it (after the row of loops
have been formed) to about the same distance on the other side of the centre.
This distance he will gradually increase until the short courses have attained
to the maximum width of gore; he will then, in the same progressive manner,
effect the decrease of the short courses. But to ensure the proper relative

page_text: progression of the other parts of the leg, he will, after the introduction of one
or more short intermediate courses, continue the courses alternately to the
right and left edge of the work.
Fig. 1 represents the courses of work done on a circular machine by a
single thread; the lines running to the edge of the Figure represent the
courses going round the front portion of the leg of the stocking, and returning
to the back. In this case reversing the rotation of the needle ring will effect
the result indicated in the Figure. Fig. 2 shews the same effect produced
by a circular machine, the needle ring being rotated alternately to the right
and the left, and the amount of axial motion being suitably graduated to
effect the requisite accumulation of work or courses to produce the fullness
required. When knitting stockings with a calf after this fashion on machines
having a circular or endless series of needles, I apply the mechanism thereto
hereafter described.
-
My Invention consists, secondly, in forming the toe and heel by knitting.
backward and forward courses of irregular lengths; thus, if the main part of
the hose contains a given number of stitches in one course, the irregular parts
will receive a less but irregular, number of stitches forming backward and
forward courses, the length and number of which will vary according to the
form required for the toe or heel. Supposing, for example, it is required to
knit a heel which will require for its production a wedge-shape rounded piece
of work similar in form to that colored red in the Diagram, Fig. 3, the courses
required to produce this by a single thread will be as represented in the
Diagram, Fig. 4. But when the heel is formed on a circular machine,' and
these threads are employed, a convenient arrangement of the courses will be
that shewn at Fig. 5. The work produced by this arrangement of courses is
shewn by the Diagram, Fig. 6, which represents the rounded heel of the
knitted stocking.
In order to effect an economy of labor in the manufacture of stockings or
socks on my improved machinery, containing a circular or endless series of
needles; I propose to form the toe of a fresh hose upon the end of that which
precedes it; thus, when the last course of the leg of the hose is finished, the
toe of the new hose is formed thereon by means of a number of backward and
forward courses of knitting produced by reversing the axial motion of the
needle as above mentioned, the extreme movement being indicated by the
dotted lines a, a, of Fig. 7. When the toe is completed; the hose attached
thereto, and partly depending therefrom, and partly supported by the needles,
as shewn in the vertical section, Fig. 8, is now to be brought up over the
needles, and laid in the position shewn in the plan view, Fig. 9, and in vertical

page_text: section at Fig. 10. For this purpose the loops of the finished hose still
remaining on the needles are removed therefrom, and in place of these the
loops of the toe piece adjoining the completed hose are threaded on to the
needles. The circular knitting then proceeds to form the continuation of
the foot of the new stocking. The finished hose may be separated from
that in progress of formation (by cutting the thread of the last course), as
shewn in the sectional view, Fig. 11, or it may be left on, and the separation
may be delayed until a series of stockings has been thus produced in one con-
tinuous piece.
In carrying out the aforesaid system of knitting backward and forward
courses of irregular lengths, I propose in some cases to produce the desired
irregularity of form by varying the number of stitches breadthwise as well as
lengthwise of the stocking. This system of operation may be carried out,
for example, where the loops are all made on one needle, as illustrated in
Sheet II. of the Drawings at Figures 1, 2, and 3. Fig. 1 is a partial sectional
elevation of so much of a machine of this description as will explain the
application thereto of my improved mode of shaping hose breadthwise, and
Fig. 2 is a partial plan view of the same. The machine consists of a pendent
rotating shaft A, which carries a tube B, having at its lower end a flange to
which a series of crank levers C, C, are jointed. These levers are arranged
radially around the shaft A, and are fitted with either forked or hooked ends
to carry an open ring D, which constitute the single needle of this machine.
The crank levers are held in a vertical position by means of pressing springs E
attached to the upper end of the tube B, and bearing upon the upper extre-
mities of the levers, which extremities are rounded to facilitate the throwing
of the levers into and out of use. The ends of this open ring D forming the
single needle are bent upwards, as shewn in the Diagrams, Figures 4, 5, 6.
and 7, the opening in the ring at this part being intended to allow of the
loops formed thereon being taken off in consecutive order. Pendent from
the bracket which carries the shaft A is a hollow axle F, to which are secured
bracket arms G, G, for supporting severally a rocking lever H, shewn in side
view at Fig. 3, and fitted with projecting pins. The object of these levers II
is to lock the ring D in position, and yet to allow of the loops sliding from
end to end of the ring. The pins of each lever alternately drop into holes
made in the ring to receive them (see Fig. 3), and they are raised out of
action (so as to allow the loops of the work to pass under them) by the forked
or hooked ends of the crank levers (while the same are rotating) bearing
against the under side of the levers. The number of levers with which the
machine is provided must at least equal the greatest number of loops required

page_text: to be introduced into one course of the work. While, therefore, the minimum
diameter of circular work is being produced, a considerable number of these.
levers will be thrown out of action or dropped into the position of the levers
C* of Fig. 1. For working with this machine a guide K is used, having an
eye at its extremity through which the thread is passed; the guide is. also
provided with a shoulder in rear of the eye for lifting the finished stitches con-
secutively off the needle. This guide may either be operated by hand or by
suitably shaped cams which will give it an upward and a slightly lateral
motion. Supposing a given number of loops to have been laid upon the
needle, and crank levers interposed between the several loops, as shewn in the
Diagram, Figure 4, the thread guide K is advanced, and caused to enter
the adjacent loop, and lift it off the end of the needle. In its return motion
the thread of the guide will slacken, and the loop formed thereby will be
caught and retained by the other end of the needle, as shewn at Fig. 5.
Repetitions of this movement will produce cylindrical work of an. uniform
diameter; but supposing it is desired to increase the diameter of the work by
the introduction of an extra loop, the thread guide is caused to lay a loop
over the end of the needle, as shewn at Fig. 6, without first entering a loop
as above described. An extra lever C* is then brought up, as shewn at
Fig. 7, the duty of which, besides assisting in the support of the needle as
above mentioned, is to press the loop forward along the needle. The thread
guide then takes up the next following loop, as explained with respect to
Figures 4 and 5, and after dropping the now formed stitch, the thread guide
may introduce a second additional loop, and thus throughout the series extra
loops may be introduced according to the extra width of work required, extra
crank levers at the same time being brought into use. For narrowing the
work, it is only necessary to throw any given number of crank levers out of
action. Adjacent loops with no intervening lever will then be presented
together to the thread guide, and will be together lifted by that guide off the
needle.
Another mode in which I propose to vary the width of circular work is to
give a forward and backward axial movement to the ring of needles of the
circular knitting machine,. somewhat short of a complete rotation. By this
means short courses will be introduced where the narrowing is required, and
instead of cylindrical work being. produced at such part of the hose, edges will
be formed lengthwise of the work, which edges are afterwards to be joined, in
the same manner practised in making up the goods produced by the common
stocking frame. The diameter of the hose may thus be contracted to any.
required degree below what is due to the entire circle of loops.

page_text: As an improvement on the above-described modes of knitting, the irregular
parts of hosiery such as the toe, heel, or calf, I propose to form a double stitch.
at the end of each course of knitting, for the purpose of preventing the recur-
rence of openings or weak places at those parts where the change has taken
place at each end of the course.
In carrying out this the third part of my Invention, I form a double stitch
every time the direction of the course is changed for the purpose of knitting a
course in an opposite direction to the then completed course, which last double
stitch I obtain in the following manner :-When commencing to lay the yarn
for a new course I first cause the yarn to be laid over the needle which holds
the last loop of the last course, and then proceed as in the ordinary manner.
This operation will be clearly understood by reference to Figures 12, 13, 14,
15, and 16, which represent in plan view portions of the needle ring of a cir-
cular knitting machine, of the construction already referred to and described
in the Specification of William Edward Newton's Patent of October, One
thousand eight hundred and sixty.
Fig. 12 shews the position of the thread layer, presser, &c. knitting the last
stitch of the course, taken in the direction of the arrow, the last stitch being
held by the needle 3. It is while the parts are in this position that the
machinery described in the Patent of William Edward Newton operates to
cause the needle ring a to move in the reverse direction; but before the
needle ring begins to move the presser 6 has time to complete the knitting of
the stitch on the needle 3, by lifting the loop of the work over the new thread,
and the thread layer c is brought to the front, as shewn at Fig. 13. The thread
layer is now shogged from the line d, e, to the line f.9, or in the opposite
direction to that in which the needle ring now commences to move, as shewn
at Fig. 14. The thread layer now falls through the needles between 1 and 2,
and the thread is thus laid over two needles instead of one in commencing a
course, as will be seen by reference to Fig. 15. The needle ring in moving
round at the time the thread layer was shogged has brought the needle 2
opposite the presser or in the position to have the loop on that needle knitted
into the work. The stitch thereby formed is the first in the new course com-
mencing in the direction in which the needle ring is now moving, see Fig. 16.
There is now upon the needle 3 a loop of the work and a new thread or loop,
but on a return course both the thread and the loop will be knitted up together,
and thus the filling up of the fabric where the direction of the course is
changed will be effected.
In order to finish the legs of socks or stockings manufactured on my cir

page_text: cular knitting machine, and prevent their unravelling or requiring a rib to be
worked on as is usual, I propose to introduce a line of chain stitches at the
extremity of the hose.
This improvement, which forms the fourth head of my Invention, I effect by
the use of a forked piece or finger, which will, when brought into action, lift
each loop in succession from its needle, and as the ring of needles moves for-
ward in its rotation, place the raised loop upon the next needle. The effect
of this will be that when a new course following this distribution of the loops
is made, a chain or lock stitch is produced around the edge of the work. By
referring to the Diagrams, Figures 8, 9, 10, 11, and 12, Sheet II., this mode
of operation will be clearly understood.
In Fig. 8, No. 1 needle holds the last stitch that completes the stocking, a
picker or hook h, (see Fig. 12,) is caused to act upon this needle and lift the
loop up, at the same time the thread layer i is moved to the front, as shewn in
Fig. 9. The picker continuing to lift the loop off the needle 1 (see Fig. 12),
and the needle ring simultaneously moving round in the direction of the arrow,
the needle 2 (see Fig. 10) is brought opposite to the picker (or in the placo
formerly occupied by the needle 1). The picker then descends and leaves the
loop it has taken from No. 1 needle upon the needle No. 2, and the thread
layer falls between the needles 2 and 3, as shewn in Fig. 11, laying a new
thread around the needle 2, which being now opposite the presser, the first link
of the chain stitch and the loop work are together lifted by the picker over the
new thread or loop and knitted in. The picker then commences to operate on
this newly knitted stitch in the same manner, and so on with each separate
loop in the course, until having gone round the stocking, the picker or hook is
thrown out of action, and the knitting is carried on in the usual manner for
several courses. The stocking may now be cut from the machine and the
thread or threads unravelled. On coming to the last of the series of chain
stitches that was made and which lie in a helical line round the stocking, the
surplus thread is to be cut off, and the ends of the last chain stitch knitted
or tied to the first made and adjoining chain stitch by a hand needle
or hook.
The last part of my Invention relates to an improvement on the machinery
already referred to as protected by Patent dated October Sixth, One thousand
eight hundred and sixty. In this knitting machinery a studded cylinder is
used for operating through a switch lever the rotating needle ring, so as to
produce the irregular work for the heel and toe of half hose. I now propose
by means of a cylinder suitably studded to accumulate courses as above

page_text: .
described to form also: the calf of a stocking. The cylinder will. in this case
have three sets of studs to operate the switch lever, and by preference I give
it a longitudinal motion as well as an axial motion.
'In Sheet III. of the Drawings, Fig. 1 represents in plan view, and Fig. 2
in side elevation, the mechanism which I propose to employ for operating the
switch lever. A is the studded cylinder mounted loosely on its shaft B, and
carrying a spur wheel C, into which a long spur pinion .D gears. On the
cylinder shaft B is also mounted loosely a grooved cam E, which carries an
escape wheel F. This escape wheel I couple with the cylinder A by projec
tions a, a, from, the former entering an annular. groove 'b in the cylinder, so
that the latter can, revolve independently of the cam, but will be controlled
longitudinally thereby.. The groove of the cam E is so shaped that a bowl
entering it, carried by a fixed arm attached to the framing of the machine, will
cause the cam and cylinder to move longitudinally on its shaft as rotary motion
is given to the cam, and thus shift the studs c, c, c, as required, into or out of
line with the switch lever G. Rotary motion is given to the cam by means of
a pin d projecting from the face of a disc e, keyed to the axle D* of the long
spur pinion D. The escape wheel F is formed with equidistant notches on its
periphery, to receive in succession the disc pin, which imparts by its rotation
an intermittent motion to the escape wheel, and between the notches the peri-
phery of this wheel is hollowed to receive the axle D* of the disc, whereby a
locking movement is produced. To allow of the wheel being unlocked, a por-
tion of the periphery of the driving axle is cut away, so that when that portion
is presented, the wheel will be unlocked and free to make a partial rotation.
This intermittent axial motion of the escape wheel will bring the different
steps in the cam groove in succession up to the fixed bowl, and thus ensure
the shifting of the cylinder in the direction of its axis to throw the several
sets of studs in their proper order into and out of line with the switch lever,
which lever, as before stated, controls the axial motion of the ring of knitting
needles.
Having now set forth the nature of the Invention of "Improvements in the
Mode of and Apparatus for Knitting, and explained the manner of carrying
the same into effect, I wish it to be understood that under the above in part
recited Letters Patent I claim,-
First, obtaining the requisite fullness for the leg of a knitted stocking by
the introduction of zig-zag courses, as above described.
Secondly, forming the toes and heels of hose in the manner above set forth,
and also forming the toe of a fresh hose upon the end of a finished hose in the
manner and for the purpose set forth.

page_text: Thirdly, I claim throwing into the work a double stitch at the time of
reversing the course, for the purpose of preventing the recurrence of weak
places at the parts where the change occurs.
Fourthly, I claim introducing a line of chain stitches at the extremity of the
hose, in the manner and for the purpose above explained.
And, lastly, I claim the improved means above described with reference
to l'igures 1 and 2, Sheet III. of the Drawings, for operating the studded
cylinder used in controlling the backward and forward courses of regular or
irregular lengths.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Henry McNary, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, the Nineteenth day of August, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-one..
Witness,
W. H. NEWTON.
W. H. MONARY. (L.S.)