A NEW AND IMPROVED WOOLLEN FABRIC, AND THE PREPARING AND MANUFACTURING OF THE SAME
Year: 1874

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Henri Adrien Bonneville, of the British and
Foreign Patent Offices, 18, Rue de la Chaussée d'Antin, Paris,
France, and 6, Piccadilly, in the County of Middlesex, Patent Agent,
for the Invention of "A NEW AND IMPROVED WOOLLEN FABRIC, AND THE
PREPARING AND MANUFACTURING OF THE SAME."-A communication from
Vishnuia Valentin vosiding at Roubaix France Sninner
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Henry Adrien
Bonneville at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with
his Petition, on the 23rd October 1874.
I, HENRI ADRIEN BONNEVILLE, of the British and Foreign Patent
Offices, 18, Rue de la Chaussée d'Antin, Paris, France, and 6, Piccadilly,
in the County of Middlesex, Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature
of the said Invention for "A NEW AND IMPROVED WOOLLEN FABRIC, AND

page_text: THE PREPARING AND MANUFACTURING OF THE SAME," Communicated to me by
Victoric Valentin, a person resident at Roubaix, France, Spinner :—
The Invention relates to a new and improved woollen fabric whose
warp or weft of combed wool contains a great quantity of silk bits
(either coloured or not) to give entirely new effects to the cloth; and
the way such a fabric is obtained is by mixing up the silk bits among
the wool to be combed as the latter is placed on the feed table of the
carding machine. The latter is so regulated that instead of carrying off
the bits the workers produce others, so that the bits not being stopped
by the needle points pass through the card and become a part of the
woollen sheet or nap produced. This nap is afterwards combed and goes
through the ordinary processes of combing, namely, slecking, winding,
and lastly, spinning, after which the thread produced is fit for the manu-
facturing of the new and improved fabric.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Henri Adrien Bonneville in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 21st April 1875.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, HENRI
ADRIEN BONNEVILLE, of the British and Foreign Patent Offices, 18, Ruc
de la Chaussée d'Antin, Paris, France, and 6, Piccadilly, in the County
of Middlesex, Patent Agent, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-third day of October, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-four, in the thirty-
eighth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors,
give and grant unto me, the said Henri Adrien Bonneville, Her special
licence that I, the said Henri Adrien Bonneville, my executors, adminis-
trators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Henri Adrien
Bonneville, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any
time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times
thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully
might make, usc, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of
Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an
Invention for "A NEW AND IMPROVED WOOLLEN FABRIC, AND THE PREPARING AND

page_text: MANUFACTURING OF THE SAME," communicated to me by Victoric Valentin, a
person resident at Roubaix, France, Spinner, upon the condition (amongst
others) that I, the said Henri Adrien Bonneville, my executors or ad-
ministrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one
of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the
nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be.
performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent
Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the date
of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Henri Adrien Bonneville, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement :-
The Invention relates to a new and improved woollen fabric whose
warp or weft of combed wool contains a great quantity of silk bits (either
coloured or not) to give entirely new effects to the cloth; and the way
such a fabric is obtained is by mixing up the silk bits among the wool
to be combed as the latter is placed on the feed table of the carding
machine. The latter is so regulated that instead of carrying off the bits
the workers produce others, so that the bits not being stopped by the
needle points pass thpough the card and become a part of the woollen
sheet or nap produced: This nap is afterwards combed and goes through
the ordinary processes of combing, namely, sleeking, winding, and
lastly, spinning, after which the thread produced is fit for the manu-
facturing of the new and improved fabric.
Until now this mixture of silk bits with the weft of a fabric has been
made on the carded weft, whilst the Invention consists of the same
mixture with combed wool, the more as not only is the mixture of silk.
bits with an end of combed wool new, but the process for making this
mixture is also different from the process applied to carded wool, and
constitutes a patentable improvement.
Before however entering upon the details of the way of proceding for
obtaining the improved yarn it is necessary to perfectly understand the
difference between the products of combed and carded wool, which at first.
sight may appear the same and thus prevent the new application to yarn-
of combed wool being patentable, as it has already been applied to carded

page_text: wool. For that purpose the means used to obtain both these products
must be explained.
The carded woollen yarn is an end obtained after being washed from
a slub or coarse roving coming from the third card of the set on to a
spinning frame; the said end cannot because of the limited drawing, and
also because of the nature of the material employed, give more than from
18 to 25 thousand metres to the kilogramme at the most. The said yarn
is employed for the manufacture of stuffs with a woollen surface, and
which are generally felted, like cloth for example, but is quite unfit for
the manufacture of short napped and light woollen stuffs.
Combed yarn on the contrary nearly always comes from the finest
wool, whilst carded yarn uses up very often the waste that the comb
produces in working, and the said combed yarn is obtained by a series
of complete preparations, viz., drawing, washing, drying, carding,
combing, sleeking, winding, and, lastly, spinning, by means of which
preparations very fine yarn may be formed which can even exceed
250 thousand metrês to the kilogramme. The said yarn is used for the
manufacture of short napped cloth, quite distinct from the former. In a
word the object on the one side is to preserve the downy effect of the
which the manufactured article requires, on the other side the smooth
effect is generally sought. With the latter by a finishing process the
effects of the carded yarn can be imitated, but with the carded yarn the
effects of the combed yarn cannot be imitated.
.
yarn
Such are the distinct characteristics of the two kinds of woollen weft.
That being laid down, will such an application having been made on one
of them be new when made on the other? That does not admit of a
doubt. Then the mixture of silk bits with combed yarn will be perfectly
patentable even though this mixture has already been made with carded
yarn, the manufactured article being entirely different..
Having thus given the said explanations in order to show plainly the
principle of the Invention and its patentable character, the means of
obtaining the mixture of the silk bits with the wool to be combed will
now be described.
The material ready to be combed, which has already been carded, is
then mixed up with the silk bits when placed on the feed table of the
carding machine, which latter is regulated in such a manner that the
workers cannot send off the bits. The material although of a nature to

page_text: be combed is or is not according to circumstances and according to
whether the mixture with the silk bits be made after carding or after
combing instead of as just described, but in all cases the material goes
through the regular progression of drawings of combing, viz., gilling,
sleeking, winding, then spinning, which completes the operation.
The mixture, as described, of silk bits of all colours may be made with
unbleached or dyed yarn.
Having thus described the said Invention, and the manner of carrying
it into effect, I would have it understood that I do not confine myself to
the precise details above cnumerated, as these may obviously be modified
without departing from the principle of the Invention; but what I claim
and desire to secure by the said Royal Letters Patent is, a new and
improved woollen fabric the warp or weft of which formed with
unbleached or dyed combed yarn is mixed with silk bits, coloured or not,
substantially as above described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Henri Adrien Bonneville, have
hereto set my hand and scal, this Twentieth day of April,
in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-
five.