IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF RIBBED PILE FABRICS
Year: 1866

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Joseph Clegg, Manufacturer, and John Smith,
Manager, both of High Crompton, near Oldham, in the County of
Lancaster, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF
RIBBED PILE FABRICS."
Sealed the 1st January 1867, and dated the 4th July 1866.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Joseph Clegg and John
Smith at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with their Petition,
on the 4th July 1866.
We, JOSEPH CLEGG, Manufacturer, and JOHN SMITH, Manager, both of High
Crompton, near Oldham, in the County of Lancaster, do hereby declare the
nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF
RIBBED PILE FABRICS," to be as follows:-
In manufacturing ribbed pile fabrics it is very desirable to obtain a well
covered surface and to prevent the foundation or back of the cloth being
exposed between the cords when the pile is cut and the fabric is finished.
Now in order to produce a fabric possessing these properties we weave in an
ordinary loom a fabric, the back or foundation of which is ribbed in the
manner known to the trade as the royal rib, and the face is produced by
floating the weft threads over five or any other convenient number of warp
threads according to the size of the cord required to be produced. This

page_text: improved fabric when woven is cut in the same manner as the fabrics known as
cords or fustians and then dyed or finished as usual. It has heretofore been
customary in weaving fustians, and other pile fabrics, to make a twilled back or
foundation, but by making the foundation in the manner known as the royal
rib," the face of the fabric when cut and finished becomes undulating
instead of perfectly straight, which undulating surface is considered a great
benefit as it improves the finish and consequently the market value of the
fabric
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Joseph Clegg and John Smith in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 3rd January 1867.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, JOSEPH
CLEGG, Manufacturer, and JOHN SMITH, Manager, both of High Crompton,
nçar Oldham, in the County of Lancaster, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Fourth day of July, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and sixty-six, in the thirtieth year of Her reign, did,
for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto us, the said
Joseph Clegg and John Smith, Her special license, that we, the said
Joseph Clegg and John Smith, our executors, administrators, and assigns, or
such others as we, the said Joseph Clegg and John Smith, our executors,
administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others,
from time to time and at all times thereafter during the term therein
expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend,
within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel
Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANU-
FACTURE OF RIBBED PILE FABRICS," upon the condition (amongst others) that
we, the said Joseph Clegg and John Smith, our executors or administrators,
by an instrument in writing under our, or their, or one of our or their
hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the
said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and
cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six
calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters.
Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that we, the said Joseph Clegg and John Smith, do
hereby declare the nature of our said Invention, and in what manner the

page_text: same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement (that is to say):-
In manufacturing ribbed piled fabrics it is very desirable to obtain a well
covered surface and to prevent the foundation or back of the cloth being
exposed between the cords when the pile is cut and the fabric is finished.
Now in order to produce a fabric possessing these properties we weave in an
ordinary loom a fabric, the back or foundation of which is ribbed in the
manner known to the trade as the royal rib, and the face is produced by
floating the weft threads over five or any other convenient number of warp
threads, according to the size of the cord required to be produced. This
improved fabric when woven is cut in the same inanner as the fabrics known
as cords or fustians and then dyed and finished as usual. It has heretofore
been customary in weaving fustians, and other pile fabrics, to make a twilled
back or foundation, but by making the foundation in the manner known as
the royal rib the face of the fabric when cut and finished becomes undulating
instead of perfectly straight, which undulating surface is considered a great
benefit as it improves the finish and consequently the market value of the
fabric.
And in order that our Invention may be fully understood and readily
carried into operation, we will proceed to describe the accompanying Sheet of
Diagrams representing six different tie-ups, by which a practical weaver
would be enabled to produce our improved ribbed pile fabrics in six different
ways; but we wish it to be distinctly understood that we do not intend to
limit ourselves to the details given in this Specification, as they may be varied
without departing from the peculiar nature of our Invention.
In the various Diagrams the horizontal lines indicate the warp threads,
and the vertical lines are the weft threads, and the short diagonal lines at their
intersections represent the warp threads that are raised to allow the weft
thread to pass under.
Figure 1 represents the tie-up for weaving our improved ribbed pile fabric
in an ordinary loom furnished with twelve healds, by which the warp threads
are raised and lowered in the succession indicated by the Figures from 1 to
24, marked on the horizontal lines, and Number. 1 pick floats over 15,
under 16, floats over 17, 18, and 19, under twenty, floats over 21, 22, 23,
and under 24, and so on to complete the round.
Figure 2 represents the tie-up with twelve healds and with the warp threads
drawn in according to the Figures from 1 to 18 marked upon them.
Figures 3, 4, and 5, represent modifications in the tie-up, whereby our
improved ribbed pile fabrics may be produced in a loom with six healds. In

page_text: Figures 3 and 5 the warps are drawn in in the order indicated by the Figures
I to 12, and in Figure 4 they are drawn in according to the succession of
Figures marked from 1 to 20.
Figure 6 represents a tie-up for a loom, in which six healds are employed,
and in which the warps are drawn in in regular succession from 1 to 6 as
shewn.
Fabrics woven according to the Diagrams or tie-ups above described will
consist of a back or foundation ribbed in the manner known to the trade as
the royal rib, and the face of the fabric will be formed by floating the weft
tbreads over any convenient or desired number of warp threads, the length of
the float depending upon the size of the cord required to be produced, and
these improved fabrics when cut like ordinary cords or fustians are then dyed
and finished as usual. The practical advantages of our improved ribbed pile
fabrics are that they are stronger in the direction of the warp than those pro-
duced in the ordinary manner; they are also stronger in the direction of the
weft because the fabrics do not require to be perched or raised to the same
extent as in ordinary cords, and the combination of the royal ribbed back or
foundation with the floating face of weft threads gives an undulating surface
to the fabric when cut and finished which cannot be attained in weaving
ribbed pile fabrics in the ordinary manner; this undulating surface, or as it is
technically called "cockled" appearance, being much approved of adds
considerably to the market value of the fabric.
Having thus stated the nature of our Invention, and described several
modes of carrying the same into operation, we wish it to be distinctly under-
stood that we claim the royal rib back or foundation in combination with a
pile face formed by the weft.
In witness whereof, we, the said Joseph Clegg and John Smith, have
hereunto set our hands and seals, this First day of January, One
thousand eight hundred and sixty-seven.
JOSEPH CLEGG. (L.S.)
JOHN SMITH.
(L.S.)