IMPROVEMENTS IN BRUSSELS AND IN TAPESTRY CARPETS
Year: 1870

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to John Garrett Tongue, of the Firm of Tongue
and Birkbeck, Patent Agents and Engineers, of 34, Southampton
Buildings, Chancery Lane, in the County of Middlesex, for the
Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN BRUSSELS AND IN TAPESTRY CARPETS."-
A communication from abroad by George Crompton, of Worcester,
Massachusetts, United States of America.
-
Sealed the 20th December 1870, and dated the 5th October 1870.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said John Garrett Tongue
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition,
on the 5th October 1870.
I, JOHN GARRETT TONGUE, of the Firm of Tongue and Birkbeck,
Patent Agents and Engineers, of 34, Southampton Buildings, Chancery
Lane, in the County of Middlesex, do hereby declare the nature of
the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN BRUSSELS AND IN TAPESTRY CARPETS,"
to be as follows:-
The first part of these improvements relates to the manufacture of
Brussels carpet of a new and improved character, termed herein double-
A

page_text: faced Brussel carpet. The term Brussels carpet includes all carpets
woven over pile wires, and in which the warp threads are throughout
their length of the same colour, the pattern being formed as in
Brussels carpets by bringing certain warp threads as desired to the
surface by the operation of a jacquard or equivalent apparatus, and this
definition includes carpets usually termed "Wilton" and " Imperial,"
in the former of which all the loops are cut, and in the latter some
of them. This improved description of Brussels carpet has loops or
a pile on both faces, and is consequently thicker, more elastic, and
more durable than a single-faced carpet. It moreover has the great
advantage of being reversible, as an ingrain carpet is, when one
face has become worn and dirty. By preference this carpet is
woven with three warps, viz., a stuffing warp, a colour warp, or
warp some threads of which are thrown up on both surfaces, as
required to form the pattern and a linen warp. It is preferred to
mount the loom with three leaves of heddles, or to weave in three
harnesses, one for the stuffing warp and one for each half of the
linen warp, the colour warp being controlled as usual by a jacquard
apparatus. The threads of colour warp appearing at any one pick to
form one row of loops upon the upper face are as usual those elevated
by the jacquard apparatus. The threads of colour warp appearing
at any one pick upon the lower face are those depressed by the
sinkers, all threads of colour warp not needed for that row of loops
being then raised by the jacquard. The fabric is woven as far as the
heddles or harnesses are concerned by a repetition of eight sheds. The
same character of fabric may be woven with two sheds formed at the
same time, part of the warps being elevated, part sunk, and part in
a central plane. It is also intended for some purposes to weave
fabrics of this character without any stuffing warp, especially when
weaving Brussels carpet with many frames, the colour warps and the
pile on both sides then making the fabric sufficiently thick, strong,
and elastic, without the use of a stuffing warp. In this improved
description of fabric a pick of weft thread is shot at the pick after the
insertion and beating up of each pile wire both upon the upper and
the lower faces of the fabric, and the rows of loops, and consequently
the whole pile is as firm as in ordinary " Brussels or "Wilton "
carpeting.
""

page_text: The second part of these improvements relates to the manufac-
ture of tapestry carpets of a novel and improved character, termed
herein double-faced tapestry carpets. The term tapestry carpet
means a pile carpet in which the figure is formed by means of a
parti-coloured warp, or in other words a warp each of whose threads
is printed or dyed of different colours. The colours and their relative
position being so adjusted that when the warps are woven they
shall produce the required figure without any aid from a jacquard
or any of its substitutes or equivalents, such carpets with a single
face or with a pattern on one side only are now common, and
when the pile is uncut are sometimes called tapestry Brussels; when
the pile is cut they are usually called tapestry velvets. These carpets,
owing to the fact that all the printed warps shew at each pick
and consequently that comparatively few warp threads are used, do
not feel so thick and elastic when trod upon as Brussels or Wilton
carpets, and consequently wear out sooner. By these improvements
this defect is remedied, at the same time making the carpet rever-
sible, so that it may be turned when partially worn, being in this
respect like the "ingrain" carpet, thus increasing the duration of the

page_text: The carpet thus woven will be stonger and thicker than that of which
it is a modification, and the stuffing warp becomes for the first time
something more than a mere filler.
Tapestry carpet woven in accordance with these improvements; either
with more or less picks of weft threads for the linen and colour warps
between the rows of loops, or with or without weft threads, and a shed
of the stuffing warp will always have the following characteristics,
viz. First, two parti-coloured or printed warps, one for the upper,
the other for the lower face of the finished fabric, each forming a
pile; second, a linen warp or binding web; third, a stuffing warp;
fourth, weft threads; fifth, a pile on both sides or faces, either cut or
uncut, or partially cut and partially uncut, and although it has been
previously stated that the colour warps are one for the upper the
other for the lower face of the finished fabric, it should be distinctly
understood that this arrangement may be varied, as the lower coloured

page_text: warp may be caused to appear above and the upper coloured warp
below, by crossing them past one another during the operation of
weaving. Although it is considered more advantageous usually to
confine each colour warp entirely to its own face of the carpet, and
although, as previously stated, that each of the coloured warps is to be
parti-coloured, it is intended for some purposes to use threads of one
colour only to form stripes, and also mottled threads instead of threads
regularly printed.
The fourth part of these improvements relates to the manufacture
of tapestry carpets of a novel character, herein termed "a single-
warp double-faced tapestry carpet," having when finished a pattern
on both sides thereof formed by loops either cut or uncut which are
furnished by the same parti-coloured warp threads, the pattern on
both sides depending upon the parti-colouring or printing of the warp
threads.
Tapestry carpet made in accordance with this part of these improve-
ments is much thicker, more pleasant under foot, and will wear better
than the ordinary single-faced tapestry carpets, and moreover may be
reversed as an ingrain carpet is after one face has become shabby,
dirty, or worn; it is not so strong as the double-faced tapestry carpet
previously described, in which there are two parti-coloured warps, one for
each face of the carpet, but it still has the advantages above enumerated
over the ordinary tapestry carpet.
Tapestry carpet may be woven most conveniently according to this
part of the Invention in four harnesses or four leaves of heddles, viz.,
one for the parti-coloured warp, one for the stuffing warp, and two for
the linen warp, and it is preferred to use three warp beams, one for the
parti-coloured warp, a second for the stuffing, and a third for the linen
warp.

page_text: For some purposes the same character of carpet may be woven with
five harnesses, dividing the stuffing warp and making a shed of it after
the fourth and eighth picks, and inserting a weft thread in the shed of and
so as to bring together the two halves of the stuffing warp, and although
it has been previously stated that there is a pattern on each face, and
that the warps are parti-coloured, for some purposes it is intended to
weave plain middles for stair carpet with either plain stripes or stripes
in pattern on the edges, and also to weave mottled middles with either
plain or pattern borders. This fabric is specially applicable for carpeting
with mottled middles and mottled or plain borders; but in all cases
there will be in the carpet one colour warp forming the pile and shewing
upon both faces of the fabric one stuffing warp and one linen warp,
and the carpet when made will have two faces, each with a pile, and
with the loops either cut or uncut or partially cut and partially
uncut.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said John Garrett Tongue in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 5th April 1871.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JOHN
GARRETT TONGUE, of the Firm of Tongue and Birkbeck, Patent Agents
and Engineers, of 34, Southampton Buildings, Chancery Lane, in the
County of Middlesex, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Fifth day of October, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy, in the thirty-
fourth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors,
give and grant unto me, the said John Garrett Tongue, Her special
licence that I, the said John Garrett Tongue, my executors, adminis-
trators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said John Garrett Tongue,
my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter
during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use,
exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and
Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "Im-
PROVEMENTS IN BRUSSELS AND IN TAPESTRY CARPETS," a communication to me
from abroad by George Crompton, of Worcester, Massachusetts, United
States of America, upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said
John Garrett Tongue, my executors or administrators, by an instrument
in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should
particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and
in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same
to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months
next and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said John Garrett Tongue, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same
is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement thereof, that is to say :-
The first part of these improvements relates to the manufacture of
Brussels carpet of a new and improved character termed herein "double
faced" Brussels carpet. The term Brussels carpet includes all carpets
woven over pile wires, and in which the warp threads are throughout

page_text: 33
their length of the same color, the pattern being formed as in Brussels
carpets by bringing certain warp threads as desired to the surface by the
operation of a jacquard or equivalent apparatus, and this definition
includes carpets usually termed "Wilton" and " Imperial in the
former of which all the loops are cut, and in the latter some of them.
This improved description of Brussels carpet has loops or a pile on both
faces, and is consequently thicker, more elastic, and more durable than
a single faced carpet, it, moreover, has the great advantage of being
reversible, as an ingrain carpet is, when one face has become worn or
dirty. By preference this carpet is woven with three warps, viz., a
stuffing warp, a color warp, or warp some threads of which are thrown
up on both surfaces as required to form the pattern and a linen warp.
It is preferred to mount the loom with three leaves of heddles or to
weave in three harnesses, one for the stuffing warp, and one for each
half of the linen warp, the color warp being controlled as usual by a
jacquard apparatus. The threads of color warp appearing at any one pick
to form one row of loops upon the upper face are as usual those
elevated by the jacquard apparatus, the threads of color warp appearing
at any one pick upon the lower face and those depressed by the sinkers,
all threads of color warp not needed for that row of loops being then
raised by the jacquard.
The fabric is woven as far as the heddles or harnesses are concerned
by a repetition of eight sheds, the fabric thus made is represented in
Figures 1, 2, 3, and 4, Sheet 1 of the Drawings hereunto annexed, the
sketches or diagrams not being intended to represent the threads of
proper relative size, or as driven up into place in the finished fabric, but
being intended to show the collocation of the threads, and to enable a
weaver to manufacture this improved fabric. In these sketches or
diagrams the right-hand ends show four of the sheds, and in them the
pile wires are lettered f, h; the weft or shuttle threads g, i; the two
halves of the linen warp b, c; the stuffing warp d, and the color warp e, a;
and it is preferred to use two yarn beams, one for the linen, the other for
the stuffing warp, the color warp being wound as usual on spools
mounted in frames. At the first pick, see Figure 1, such of the color
warp threads as are required to form one row of loops on the upper face
are held up by the jacquard, all the other threads of the color warp, the
linen warp and the stuffing are sunk, an upper pile wire is now inserted and

page_text: beat up. At the second pick, see Figure 2, all the warp threads except
those constituting one half of the linen warp are sunk, and a weft thread
of the upper face is inserted and beat up. At the third pick, see
Figure 3, all warp threads are elevated except those threads of the color
warp required for the formation of a row of loops for the lower face of
the carpet which are sunk and a pile wire for the lower face is now
inserted and beat up. At the fourth pick, see Figure 4, all the warp
threads are up except those constituting one half of the linen warp
which are sunk (being the same half that was down at the second pick),
a weft thread binding the loops of the lower face is now shot and beat
up. At the fifth pick the shed is the same as at the first. At the sixth
pick the shed is the same as at the second, except that the half of
the linen warp sunk at the second is elevated at the sixth pick, and that
half of the linen warp elevated at the second is sunk at the sixth pick.
At the seventh pick the shed is the same as at the third. At the
eighth the shed is the same as at the fourth, save that the linen warp.
threads sunk at the fourth pick are now elevated, and those elevated at
the fourth pick are now sunk. This same fabric may be woven with two
sheds formed at the same time, part of the warps being elevated, part
sunk, and part in a central plane. It is also intended for some purposes
to weave fabrics of this description without any stuffing warp, especially
when weaving Brussels carpet with many frames, the color warps and
the pile on both sides then making the fabric sufficiently thick, strong,
and elastic without the use of a stuffing warp. In this improved de-
scription of fabric, it will be noticed that a pick of weft thread is shot at
the pick after the insertion and beating up of each pile wire, both upon
the upper and the lower face of the fabric and the rows of loops, and
consequently the whole pile is as firm as in ordinary "Brussels" or
“Wilton” carpeting.
It is not intended to claim broadly the manufacture of a fabric having
a pile on both sides thereof formed from warp threads colored with the
same color throughout their length. But what is claimed under this
part of these improvements is the manufacture of the new double faced
carpeting herein described, composed of a color warp, a stuffing warp,
and a linen warp, and having a pile on both faces thereof held firmly in
place by picks of weft or shuttle threads shot between each and every
row of loops on both sides of the fabric, and the whole fabric being

page_text: substantially such as herein-before described and shown by reference to
Sheet 1 of the Drawings hereunto annexed.
The manufacture of the same fabric is also claimed made in the same
way with the exception that it contains no stuffing warp as herein-before
described.
The second part of these improvements relates to the manufacture of
tapestry carpets of a novel and improved character, termed herein
"double faced tapestry carpets" woven with double warp, and the
following, taken in connection with Sheet 2 of the Drawings, referring
thereto is a full, clear, and exact description thereof.
The Drawings or diagrams are longitudinal sections shewing the
collocation of the threads which form the carpet and also the pile wires
in place in the fabric. They are not intended to represent the threads
as of the proper size or as driven up in a finished carpet, but are intended
to aid in defining the character of the fabric and the preferred manner
of making the same.
The term tapestry carpet means a pile carpet in which the figure is
formed by means of a parti-colored warp, or in other words, a warp each
of whose threads is printed or dyed of different colors, the colors and
their relative position being so adjusted that when the warps are woven
they shall produce the required figure without any aid from a jacquard
or any of its substitutes or equivalents, such carpets with a single face
or with a pattern on one side only are now common, and when the pile
is uncut are sometimes called tapestry Brussels, and when the pile is
cut they are usually called tapestry velvets. These carpets, owing to
the fact that all the printed warps shew at each pick and consequently
that comparatively few warp threads are used, do not feel so thick and
elastic when trod upon as Brussels or Wilton carpets, and consequently
wear out sooner. By these improvements this defect is remedied, at the
same time making the carpet reversible so that it may be turned when
partially worn, being in this respect like the ingrain carpet, by this means
increasing the duration of the carpet. According to this part of these
improvements carpets of this character are made with a stuffing warp, a
linen or binding warp, two printed or color warps (one for each face)
and weft threads it being preferred to mount the loom with five
harnesses (or five leaves) or frames of heddles.

page_text: 6, and 7, Sheet 2, on the Drawings, being the upper color warp or
the warp forming the pattern and upper surface (as woven) of the
carpet.
Number 2 frame contains 6, the lower color warp or warp forming the
pattern and lower surface (as woven) of the carpet. These warps may be
wound on the same or separate beams, the latter being preferred.
Number 3 frame contains and governs one half of the linen warp being
that portion marked c in Sheet 2 of the Drawings.
Number 4 frame contains and governs the other half of the linen warp
marked d in Sheet 2 of the Drawings.
Number 5 frame contains and governs the stuffing warp marked e, in
Sheet 2 of the Drawings, and with the warps thus drawn through the
heddles the fabric may be woven as follows:
First. The warp a, see Figure 5, is raised into the upper plane of the
shed warps c, d and e are held in the central plane, and 6 is lowered
into the lower plane of the shed, this being the disposition of the warps
shewn at the right-hand end of Figure 5, and forming two semi-sheds;
two pile wires, fand g, are now inserted and driven up to the fell of the
fabric by the reed.
Second. The warp c, b, and e, are all raised to the upper plane, a
remains up, and d is depressed into the lower plane, and a pick of weft
thread is then shot; see right-hand end of Figure 6.
Third. c remains up, and d down, and a, b, and c are lowered into
the lowest plane, another pick of weft thread is then shot, see right hand
of Figure 7.
Fourth. Such harnesses are moved as will bring all the warps again
into the first position, and pile wires are again inserted.
Fifth. Such harnesses are moved as will bring the warps into the
planes as in the second position, save that warp c will be down and d up,
then a pick of weft thread is thrown.
Sixth. The warps are caused to assume the third position, except
that e will be down andɩɗ up, then a pick of weſt thread is thrown.
Seventh. The warps are again as in position first and all the other
positions repeat themselves until the carpet is woven.
When the carpet

page_text: is thus made there will be a pattern and a pile on each side thereof.
The patterns may be the same or different. The wires are to be drawn
and the pile may be cut by the aid of a knife on the end of the pile wire,
as is well understood in cutting pile fabrics, or left uncut as desired.
The weaver's draught for mounting the loom and giving the positions
of the warps where the pile wires are inserted and the weft threads are
shot is as follows, being the same as before written out at length-

page_text: heddles; and when the loom is thus mounted one or more sheds of the
stuffing warp may be made after the two pile wires are placed and before
the next two are placed, a weft thread being thrown through the stuffing
warp.
The following is a draught which will weave the fabric when the
stuffing warp is divided, its two halves at times forming a shed in
which a weft thread is shot. The two halves of the stuffing warp are
marked e, e¹, and Sheet 3 of the Drawings contains diagrams illustrating
the same.
The carpet thus woven will be stronger and thicker than that of which 10
it is a modification, and the stuffing warp becomes for the first time
something more than a mere filler.
Tapestry carpet woven in accordance with these improvements, either
with more or less picks of weft threads for the linen and color warps
between the rows of loops, or with or without weft threads and a shed of 15

page_text: the stuffing warp will always have the following characteristic, viz. :—
First, two parti-colored or printed warps, one for the upper the other for
the lower face of the finished fabric, each forming a pile; second, a
linen warp or binding web; third, a stuffing warp; fourth, weft threads;
fifth, a pile on both sides or faces either cut or uncut, or partially cut
and partially uncut; and although it has been previously stated that
the color warps are one for the upper the other for the lower face of the
finished fabric, it should be distinctly understood that this arrangement
may be varied as the lower colored warp may be caused to appear above
and the upper colored warp below by crossing them past one another
during the operation of weaving, although it is considered more advan-
tageous usually to confine each color warp entirely to its own face of the
carpet; and although, as previously stated, that each of the colored
warps is to be parti-colored it is intended for some purposes to use
threads of one color only to form stripes, and also mottled threads instead
of threads regularly printed.
What is claimed under the second and third parts of these improve-
ments is,―
First. The manufacture of a carpet made up of two parti-colored warps,
a linen warp, a stuffing warp, and weft threads, when the same is so
composed that the fabric has a pile either cut or uncut, or partially cut
and partially uncut, upon both faces, substantially as herein described
and shown in reference to Sheet 2 of the Drawings hereunto annexed.
Secondly. The manufacture of a carpet presenting a pile either cut or
uncut, or partially cut and partially uncut, upon both sides thereof when
the same is composed of two parti-colored warps, a linen warp, a stuffing
warp, and weft, threads, some of which latter are shot between sheds
formed of the stuffing warp, substantially as herein described and shown
in reference to Sheet 3 of the Drawings hereunto annexed.
The fourth part of these improvements relates to the manufacture of
tapestry carpets of a novel character, herein termed a "single warp
double-faced tapestry carpet," having when finished a pattern on both
sides thereof formed by loops either cut or uncut, which are furnished
by the same parti-colored warp threads, the pattern on both sides
depending upon the parti-coloring or printing of the warp threads.
Tapestry carpet made in accordance with this part of these improve-

page_text: ments is much thicker, more pleasant under foot, and will wear better
than the ordinary single-faced tapestry carpets, and, moreover, may be
reversed as an ingrain carpet is after one face becomes shabby, dirty, or
worn; it is not so strong as the double-faced tapestry carpet previously
described, in which there are two parti-colored warps, one for each face
of the carpet, but it still has the advantages above enumerated over the
ordinary tapestry carpet.
Tapestry carpet may be woven most conveniently, according to this
part of these improvements, in four harnesses or four leaves of heddles,
viz., one for the parti-colored warp, one for the stuffing warp, and two
for the linen warp; and it is preferred to use three warp beams, one for
the parti-colored warp, a second for the stuffing, and a third for the
linen warp.
Sheet 4 of the Drawings hereto annexed shows the collocation of the
threads, the position of the pile wires before they are drawn, and at
the right-hand end of each figure the arrangement of sheds for four
picks are represented. These Drawings are not intended to represent
the threads as beaten up in place in the finished carpet, but, on the
contrary, the threads are purposely left apart and the interstices open,
so as to instruct others how to make this improved description of carpet.
In Figures 12, 13, 14, and 15, Sheet 4 of the Drawings, the pile wires
are represented at e,f; the weft or shuttle threads at h, g; the parti-
colored warps at a, the stuffing warp at d, and the two halves of the
linen warp at b, c. The sheds repeat themselves after each eight picks.
At the first pick, see Figure 12, all the warps are down except the color
warp which is elevated, and one of the pile wires of the upper face is
inserted and beat up. At the second pick, see Figure 13, all the warps
are up except the parti-colored warp, which is down, and one of the lower
pile wires is inserted and beat up. At the third pick, see Figure 14, all
the warp threads are up except one-half of the linen warp which is
down; a weft thread g is then shot and beat up. At the fourth pick, see
Figure 15, all the warp threads are down except the other half of the
linen warp which is up; a weft thread / is then shot and beat up. At
the fifth pick the shed is the same as the first, and another upper pile
wire is inserted. At the sixth pick the shed is the same as the second,
and another lower pile wire is inserted. At the seventh pick the shed
is the same as the third, except that the half of the linen warp which

page_text: was up at the third pick is down at the seventh, and that half of the
linen warp which was down at the third is up at the seventh; another
weft thread is now inserted. At the eighth pick the shed is the same as
at the fourth, except that the half of the linen warp which was then down
is now up, and the half which was then up is now down; another weft
thread is now inserted. A repetition of these sheds, insertion of pile
wires, and throwing in of weft threads will complete the fabric, and a
weaver's draught of the same is as follows:-
For some purposes the same carpet may be woven with five harnesses,
dividing the stuffing warp and making a shed of it after the fourth and
eighth picks, and inserting a weft thread in the shed of and so as to
bring together the two halves of the stuffing warp; and although it has
been previously stated that there is a pattern on each face, and that the
warps are parti-colored, it is intended in some cases to weave plain
middles, as for stair carpets and other purposes, with either plain stripes
B

page_text: or stripes in pattern on the edges, and also to weave mottled middles
with either plain or pattern borders. This fabric is specially applicable
for carpeting with mottled middles and mottled or plain borders; but in
all cases there will be in the carpet one color warp forming the pile, and
shewing upon both faces of the fabric one stuffing warp and one linen
warp; and the carpet when made will have two faces each with a pile
and with the loops either cut or uncut, or partially cut and partially
uncut.
What is claimed under this last part of these improvements is, the
manufacture of a double-faced carpet with a pile on each face thereof,
the pile on both faces being formed of the same warp threads appearing
first on one and then on the other face, and the whole carpet being
composed of weft and warp threads, substantially as herein described
and shown in reference to Sheet 4 of the Drawings hereunto annexed.
In witness whereof, I, the said John Garrett Tongue, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, this Fourth day of April, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-one.