IMPROVEMENTS IN MANUFACTURING LACE IN TWIST LACE MACHINES
Year: 1865

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to James Hartshorn and William Redgate, of Notting-
ham, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN MANUFACTURING LACE IN
TWIST LACE MACHINES."
Sealed the 25th August 1865, and dated the 28th February 1865.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said James Hartshorn and
William Redgate at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with
their Petition, on the 28th February 1865.
We, JAMES HARTSHORN and WILLIAM REDGATE, of Nottingham, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN MANUFACTURING
LACE IN TWIST LACE MACHINES," to be as follows:―
This Invention has for its object improvements in manufacturing lace in
twist lace machines. For these purposes, in the manufacture of weavings in
conjunction with pillars and meshings when making what are known as
Maltese laces, where the longitudinal threads of the weavings are warp
threads, the wefting of the weavings are in some cases produced by two other
warp threads, one at each edge of a weaving, and such wefting warp threads
work with two bobbin threads, one at each edge of the weaving. Or in place
of wefting the longitudinal warp threads with two wefting warp threads, the

page_text: two bobbin threads may be used alternately to weft the longitudinal warp
threads, but whether two warp threads or two bobbin threads be used as
wefting threads, each time they are used they are caused to form a double
weft in the opening or shed in the longitudinal warp threads of the fabric.
The peculiarity of this Invention consists in the mode in which the two
bobbin threads and the two warp threads are respectively weighted. Thus,
supposing it be desired to weft the longitudinal warp threads of the fabric
with the two warp threads by using them alternately double in the sheds as
they are opened in the longitudinal threads wefting first from one edge of the
fabric then from the other, then the two bobbin threads will be weighted so
as to act on their respective warp threads, and to draw off sufficient of such
warp threads to form the double weft at each time of wefting. If, on the
other hand, it be desired that the wefting shall be by the two bobbin threads,
then their respective warp threads will be weighted so as to draw off sufficient
of the bobbin threads to produce the double weft each time of wefting. In
thus working the wefting threads, they may also be caused to produce purls,
either on one or both edges of the weaving. In some cases the wefting may
be conjointly produced by the two warp threads and the two bobbin threads.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said James Hartshorn and William Redgate in the Great Seal
Patent Office on the 26th August 1865.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, JAMES
HARTSHORN and WILLIAM REDGATE, of Nottingham, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-eighth day of February, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-five, in the twenty-eighth year of
Ier reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto
us, the said James Hartshorn and William Redgate, Her special licence that
we, the said James Hartshorn and William Redgate, our executors, adminis-
trators, and assigns, or such others as we, the said James Hartshorn and
William Redgate, our executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any
time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter
during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use,
exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and
Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN MANUFACTURING LACE IN TWIST LACE MACHINES," upon the condition

page_text: (amongst others) that we, the said James Hartshorn and William Redgate,
our executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under our or
their hands and seals, or under the hand and seal of one of us or them,
should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention,
and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to
be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next'
and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said William Redgate, on behalf of myself
and the said James Hartshorn, do hereby declare the nature of the said
Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be par-
ticularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement thereof,
that is to say-
This Invention has for its object improvements in manufacturing lace in
twist lace machines. For these purposes, in the manufacture of weavings in
conjunction with pillars and meshings when making what are known as
Maltese laces, we form the weavings in the following manner:-The longi-
tudinal threads of the weavings are warp threads, and the wefting of the
weavings is produced by two bobbin threads which are used alternately to
weft the longitudinal warp threads. Each time they are used they are drawn
through the warp double, and are caused to form a double weft in the opening"
or shed in the longitudinal warp threads of the fabric. The warp threads
round which the wefting threads catch are weighted so as to draw off
sufficient of the wefting bobbin threads to produce the double weft each time
of wefting. When thus working the wefting threads they may also be caused
to produce purls, either on one or both edges of the weaving. The purls may
be made intermediate of the wefting shoots, and the motions may be such as
to produce either twisted or other purls.
Having thus stated the nature of our Invention, we will now proceed to
describe the nanner of performing the same.
We will suppose the machinery to be ordinary twist lace: machinery, and
that it is required to produce a straight band of purled weaving; the space
to be occupied by the band of weaving being, say, four carriages. The
first carriage we will call the left-hand lacing carriage; the second, the left-
hand weft carriage; the third, the right-hand weft carriage; and the fourth,
the right-hand lacing carriage. We also employ in producing the band of
weaving eight longitudinal extra warp threads (or any other number may be
used), together with warp weft threads and suitable lacing threads. The
tbreads we call "warp weft threads" are the warp threads between which the
shoots of the wefting bobbins are distended. The order in which we prefer

page_text: that the warp threads should stand in the machine is as follows:-First (that
is nearest the back combs), the left-hand lacing thread; second, the right-
hand lacing thread; third, the left-hand warp weft thread. Then follow the
eight longitudinal warp threads, arranged in two divisions; one formed of
numbers 1, 3, 5, 7, the other of numbers 2, 4, 6, 8; next, the right-hand
warp weft thread. The following is the process:
Motion 1.-Carriages in front combs (all the warp threads standing on the
left-hand side the left-hand lacing carriage). The left-hand warp lacing thread
stands on the left-hand side the left-hand lacing carriage. The right-hand.
warp lacing thread moves two gaits to the right hand. The left-hand warp
weft thread moves two gaits to the right hand. The longitudinal threads 1,.
3, 5, 7, move two gaits to the right hand. The longitudinal warp threads 2,
4, 6, 8, move two gaits to the right hand (which latter longitudinal warp
threads remain in that position during the entire process, it being only
necessary to move the longitudinal warp threads 1, 3, 5, 7). The right warp
weft thread moves four gaits to the right hand.
Motion 2. Carriages in back combs. The left-hand warp lacing thread
stands on the left-hand side the left-hand lacing carriage. The right-hand.
warp lacing thread moves two gaits to the right hand. The left-hand warp
weft thread moves one gait to the left hand. The longitudinal warp threads
1, 3, 5, 7, stand on the right-hand side the left-hand weft carriage. The
right-hand warp weft thread stands on the right-hand side the right-hand
lacing carriage.
Motion 3.-Carriages in front combs. The left-hand warp lacing thread
stands on the left-hand side the left-hand lacing carriage. The right-hand
warp lacing thread moves one gait to the left hand. The left-hand warp weft
thread stands on the left-hand side the left-hand weft carriage. The longi-
tudinal warp threads 1, 3, 5, 7, stand on the right-hand side the left-hand
weft carriage. The right-hand warp weft thread moves one gait to the left.
hand.
Motion 4. Carriages in back combs. The left-hand warp lacing thread
stands on the left-hand side the left-hand lacing carriage. The right-hand
warp lacing thread moves one gait to the left hand. The left-hand warp weft
thread stands on the left-hand side the left-hand weft carriage. The longi-
tudinal warp threads 1, 3, 5, 7, move one gait to the left hand. The right-
hand warp weft thread moves two gaits to the left hand.
Motion 5. Carriages in front combs. The left-hand warp lacing thread
stands on the left-hand side the left-hand lacing carriage. The right-hand
warp lacing thread moves two gaits to the right hand. The left-hand warp.

page_text: weft thread stands on the left-hand side the left-hand weft carriage. The
longitudinal warp threads 1, 3, 5, 7, stand on the left-hand side the left-hand
carriage. The right-hand warp weft thread moves two gaits to the right.
hand.
Motion 6.-Carriages in back combs. The left-hand warp lacing thread
stands on the left-hand side the left-hand lacing carriage. The right-hand
warp lacing thread stands on the right-hand side the right-hand lacing
carriage. The left-hand warp weft thread stands on the left-hand side the
left-hand weft carriage. The longitudinal warp threads 1, 3, 5, 7, move one
gait to the right hand. The right-hand warp weft thread moves one gait to
the left hand.
Motion 7.-Carriages in front combs. The left-hand warp lacing thread
moves two gaits to the right hand. The right-hand warp lacing thread stands.
on the right-hand side the right-hand lacing carriage. The left-hand warp
weft thread moves two gaits to the right hand. The longitudinal warp
threads 1, 3, 5, 7, move one gait to the right hand. The right-hand
warp weft thread moves one gait to the right hand.
Motion S.-Carriages in back combs. The left-hand warp lacing thread;
moves one gait to the left hand. The right-hand warp lacing thread stands
on the right-hand side the right-hand lacing carriage. The left-hand warp
weft thread moves two gaits to the left hand. The longitudinal warp threads
1, 3, 5, 7, stand on the right-hand side the right-hand weft carriage. The,
right-hand warp weft thread stands on the right-hand side the right-hand weft
carriage.
Motion 9. Carriages in front combs. The left-hand warp lacing thread
moves one gait to the left hand. The right-hand warp lacing thread stands
on the right-hand side the right-hand lacing carriage.. The left-hand warp
weft thread moves one gait to the left hand. The longitudinal warp threads
1, 3, 5, 7, move one gait to the left hand. The right-hand warp weft thread
stands on the right-hand weft carriage.
Motion 10 Carriages in back combs. The left-hand warp lacing thread
moves two gaits to the right hand. The right-hand warp lacing thread,
stands on the right-hand side the right-hand lacing carriage. The left-hand
warp weft thread stands on the left-hand side the left-hand lacing carriage.
The longitudinal warp threads 1, 3, 5, 7, stand on the right-hand side the
left-hand weft carriage, The right-hand warp weft thread stands on the,
right-hand side the right-hand weft carriage.
Motion 11.-Carriages in front combs. The left-hand warp lacing thread
moves two gaits to the left hand. The right-hand warp lacing thread stands

page_text: on the right-hand side the right-hand lacing carriage. The left-hand warp
weft thread moves two gaits to the right hand. The longitudinal warp
threads 1, 3, 5, 7, stand on the right-hand side the left-hand weft carriage.
The right-hand warp weft thread stands on the right-hand side the right-hand
weft carriage.
Motion 12. Carriages in back combs. The left-hand warp lacing thread
stands on the left-hand side the left-hand lacing carriage. The right-hand
warp lacing thread stands on the right-hand side the right-hand lacing
carriage. The left-hand warp thread moves one gait to the left hand. The
longitudinal warp threads 1, 3, 5, 7, move one gait to the left hand. The
right-hand warp weft thread moves two gaits to the left hand.
Motion 13.-Carriages in front combs. The left-hand warp lacing thread
stands on the left-hand side the left-hand lacing carriage. The right-hand
warp lacing thread stands on the right-hand side the right-hand lacing
carriage. The left-hand warp weft thread stands on the left-hand side the
left-hand weft carriage. The longitudinal warp threads 1, 3, 5, 7, stand on
the left-hand side the left-hand weft carriage. The right-hand warp weft
thread moves two gaits to the right hand.
Motion 14. Carriages in back combs. The left-hand warp lacing thread
stands on the left-hand side the left-hand lacing carriage. The right-hand
warp lacing thread stands on the right-hand side the right-hand lacing
carriage. The left-hand warp weft thread stands on the left-hand side the
left-hand weft carriage. The longitudinal warp threads 1, 3, 5, 7, move one
gait to the right hand. The right-hand warp weft thread stands on the right-
hand side the right-hand weft carriage.
Motion 15.-Carriages in front combs. The left-hand warp lacing thread
stands on the left-hand side the left-hand carriage. The right-hand warp
lacing thread stands on the right-hand side the right-hand lacing carriage.
The left-hand warp weft thread moves two gaits to the right hand. The
longitudinal warp threads 1, 3, 5, 7, move one gait to the right band. The
right-hand warp weft thread stands on the right-hand side the right-hand weft
carriage.
Motion 16.-Carriages in back combs. The left-hand warp lacing thread
stands on the left-hand side the left-hand lacing carriage. The right-hand
warp lacing thread stands on the right-hand side the right-hand lacing a
carriage. The left-hand warp weft thread moves two gaits to the left hand.
The longitudinal warp threads 1, 3, 5, 7, stand on the right-hand side the:
right-hand weft carriage. The right-hand warp weft thread moves one gait to
the left hand.
1

page_text: The above is the mode which we prefer to adopt in making a straight band
of purled weaving; but we would have it understood that we do not confine
ourselves to the exact number of motions above described, as the weaving may
be produced in a considerably less number of motions, although then the fabric
in the purls or other parts will not so closely resemble real Maltese lace as at
present made. The width of the band may also be made to extend over more
than four carriages, if desired.
It will be easily understood that in order to traverse a breadth of lace, and
to produce a curved in place of a straight line of weaving, it is only necessary
to employ in succession different bobbin threads in the fabric as the weft
threads, that is to say, to pass from one bobbin or carriage thread to another,
as the nature of the pattern requires.
What we claim is, the wefting the weavings as above described by means
of bobbin threads on each side or edge of the weaving, such bobbin threads
being taken alternately from either side of the weaving, and drawn across
double between the warp threads.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Redgate, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Twenty-fifth day of August, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-five.
WILLIAM REDGATE. (L.S.)