IMPROVEMENTS IN EMBROIDERING MACHINES, AND IN APPARATUS USED IN CONNECTION THEREWITH
Year: 1852

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS. SHALL COME, I, HENRY
HOULDSWORTH, of Manchester, in the County of Lancaster, Cotton Spinner,
send greeting.
WHEREAS Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Royal Letters Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date
at Westminster, the Tenth day of June, in the fifteenth year of Her reign,
did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the said
Henry Houldsworth, Her especial license, full power, sole privilege and
authority, that I, the said Henry Houldsworth, my exors, adñiors, and assigns,
or such others as I, the said Henry Houldsworth, my exors, adñiors, and
assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time
and at all times during the term of years therein expressed, should and
lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within England, Wales, and
the Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, and also in all Her Majesty's Colonies
and Plantations abroad, my Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN EMBROIDERING
MACHINES, AND IN APPARATUS USED IN CONNECTION THEREWITH;" in which said
Letters Patent is contained a proviso obliging me, the said Henry Houldsworth,
by an instrument in writing under my hand and seal, particularly to describe
and ascertain the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same
is to be performed, and to cause the same to be enrolled in Her said Majesty's
High Court of Chancery within six calendar months next and immediately
after the date of the said recited Letters Patent, as in and by the same,
reference being thereunto had, will more fully and at large appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said
Henry Houldsworth, do hereby declare that the nature of my said Invention

page_text: and the manner in which the same is to be performed and carried into effect,
is clearly described and shown in the Drawings hereto annexed, and the
following description thereof, that is to say:
Sheet No. 1 of the Drawings exhibits a side view of an embroidery machine
of the ordinary construction, in which is also shown. three of the improve-
ments hereafter described:
Sheet No. 2 represents on an enlarged scale various details of certain of the
improvements.
Sheet No. 3 represents the improved threading stand and its details.
No. 4 represents a side view of an embroidery machine, with a break
apparatus attached."
The same letters and figures-refer-to-the-same objects in the different
Drawings.
The embroidering machine here represented in Sheet No. 1 is constructed
on the principle of the Invention patented by Mr. Henry Bock, under
date of the Second May, in the tenth year of His late Majesty George the
Fourth
・
F, F, F, is the framing; C, one of the carriages; B, B, the nipper beams;
N, N, the nippers, or needle holders; N,N, the needles; t;-t, the embroider-
ing threads; W, W; the carriage wheels; and R the carriage rails on which
the wheels move; P, the plush board; "X, X, the squaring apparatus, shown
in dotted lines; and y, the beam on which the handle or bracket -V is fixed,
for moving the carriage in and out; 'C, F, the clotli frame, and T the counter-
poise Z, the inner carriage stop.
... With this brief description, the application to embroidery machines of the
improvements which form the subject of the present Invention, will be easily
understood by the aid of the following explanations
?
The first i
improvement is in the construction of the clearer, and consists in
combining with the original plush board (P), two, three, or more light sliding
bars of wood or other suitable substances (1, 1, 1), which extend?across the
machine in length about one inch shorter than the width of the carriage
within the ends, and bearing short valances of calico (0, 0, 0): These are
shewn full size in Sheet 2, Figs. 1 and 2. These bars are supported at the
two ends on light iron rails (Sheet 1), which are jointed for support at the
ends next the cloth frame (to arms or brackets (3, 3,) attached to the framing);
and similarly supported at the outer ends. These rails extend at right angles
to the bars (1,1,1,)- the line of the insides of the ends of the
carriages, and are fixed so that the tops of the sliding-bars fare about two
inches lower than the under side of the nipper beams The bars have caps on

page_text: the ends, with projections downwards at the extreme ends, to retain them
on the rails in the, act of sliding. These bars are connected to each other at
the ends by leather straps (5, 5,). of ten or twelve inches long, and the outer-
most bar has jointed to it at each end a metal link. of about twenty inches
long, (6, 6,) which at its outer end lies at the fork (7), (Sheet 2, Figs. 3
and 4), of an upright arm attached to the carriage, and has on its under edge
a projection (8), and at the extreme end a right angle bend (9) to bring it
over the rail (2),, and then, a downward bend, forked, to clip the said rail,
as shown on, Sheet 2, Figs. 3 and 4. ..On the inside of the rail a small metal
plate (10) is fixed, with beviled ends, forming a double incline plane at about
27 inches from the cloth frame, upon which incline plane the inner leg of the
fork of the link (6) rides when the carriage is approaching the cloth frame.
The object of the apparatus here described is to prevent the embroidering
threads from twisting, when slacked by. the moving in of the carriages, and
from knotting as the threads are drawn through the cloth. Its action. is as
follows: When the carriage is in at the cloth frame the bars (1, 1, 1,), and
valances (0, 0, 0,) are in contact with each other and close up to the plush
beard, and the extreme ends of the links (6) are resting at the top of the
incline plane (10), and the lower edges of the projections (8) are raised above
the bottom of the forks (7). When the carriage is drawn out so that the
forks (7) come in contact with the right angle bend of the links, then
the outermost bar begins to slide out with. the carriage, and in succession the
second and third bars are similarly acted upon by the connecting leather links,
so that when the carriage is drawn out to the extreme distance from the cloth
frame, and the embroidering threads are extended to their full .length, the
bars (1, 1, 1) form a grid, on which the threads fall and rest as the carriage is
moved in; but, on the return of the carriage, the links (6) no longer resting
on the incline planes (9), have dropped down so as to bear on the forks (7),
and the latter moving in with the carriage, and coming into contact with the
projections (8), push the links and outermost bar towards to the cloth frame,
the embroidering threads meantime forming: small loops between the. moving
bar and the one next to. it, as shown on Sheet 1. As the carriage moves in,
the space between the two bars closes, and by the time the two ends of the
loops, come together the bows of the loops, are compressed between the bars
and valances, and twisting is thus prevented. The same takes place between
the second and third bars, and between the third and the plush board, when
the inward movement of the bar ceases by the links (6) riding on the
plates (10), and raising (8) above the bottom of the fork (7). It will, be
evident that when the needles are brought up to the cloth, the embroidering
"
"

page_text: ;
threads will be retained in a succession of short loops between the bars, till
drawn out one after the other by the outward motion of the opposite carriage,
and by this subdivision the knotting of the threads is prevented.
The next improvement is in the construction of the faller apparatus, used to
clear the threads from the needle points. The application of this apparatus
is seen in Sheet 1; and the chief parts, half size, on Sheet 2, Figs. 5 and 6.
C represents the carriage ends; (21) is the faller rod or shaft extending
across the carriage, and projecting beyond the ends of the latter about one and
a half inches at each end. On these projecting ends are fixed the arms or
fingers (22), which have each a stud (23) projecting outwards, and long
enough to enter as the carriage moves in the stationary forks (24, Sheet 1,)
attached to the framing. These forks have inclined surfaces, which depress
the studs and back fingers as the carriage moves in, and raise them as the
carriage moves out. From the extreme points of the arms (22) wires are
stretched across to the corresponding points of the opposite arms; the front
wire (25), Sheet (2), Fig. (6), is called the faller wire, and the back one (26),
connecting the shorter ends of the arms, is called the tension wire, and is
furnished with a tightening screw (27) to secure a sufficient and equal tension
on both wires. To check the vibration of the wires, they are passed through
one or more light' arms (28) fixed on the faller rod, between the extreme ends.
The faller rod rests in horizontal slots in the carriage ends, as seen at (29);
these slots permit the faller rod to slide back about two inches, when the
studs (23) come in contact with the bottom of the forks (24). The normal
position of the faller rod is at the front end of the slot, as shewn in the
Drawings, and it is made to assume this position by the pressure behind it of
à spring (30) attached to the nipper beam. At the same time the normal
position of the faller wire is about one and a half inches below and rather in
front of the points of the needles, as shewn in the Drawings, and at that point
of depression the arms rest on stop pins (31) projecting from the carriage
ends. The action of this faller is as follows:-The threads pass from the
cloth in the cloth frame, under the faller wire, to the eyes of the needles
in the nippers, and form an angle (32) at the point where they are depressed
by the faller wire. When one or more of these threads are brought into a
state of tension by the outward movement of the carriage, the faller wire
is raised by the tightened thread or threads, but not so high as to admit of the
threads getting on to the points of the needles, which it is one object of the
faller wire to prevent.. When the carriage moves in, the faller wire, before
the carriage reaches the cloth frame, requires to be raised above the points of
the needles, and to be withdrawn behind the face of the rippers before the

page_text: needles enter the cloth. The raising of the faller is effected by the studs (23)
coming in contact with the inclined surface of the forks (24), and when the
faller wire is raised high enough to pass clear over the tops of the nipper,
the simultaneous contact of the studs at the two ends of the faller against the
bottom of the forks, causes the faller rod, with its arms and wires, to slide
horizontally back so far as needful. Then, when the carriage returns, the
spring (30) presses the faller rod forward to its normal position, and tho
inclined surface of the fork then permits the faller wire, as the carriage moves
out, to descend to its normal position.
The third improvement is for the purpose of maintaining a more perfect
adjustment of the needle beds at the time when the needles are entering and
leaving the nippers. On each end of the carriage are two projections, on
which hardened steel plates are fixed (40. Sheet 1), filed perfectly level on the
under side, and corresponding with horns (41) standing up from the inner sides
of the rails (R), and fitted in like manner with hardened steel plates, having
the upper surface made perfectly level, and so adjusted to those on the
carriages as that, when the carriage approaches the cloth frame, the levelled
faces may enter and slide upon each other, and rest there till the carriage is
moved back. For the purpose of ensuring the smooth entry of the one face.
on the other, the entering edges are rounded a little, and at the same time to
ensure the carriages resting wholly on the faces at the times of the needles
entering and leaving the nippers, the surface of the rail (R) is slightly:
depressed under the wheels where the carriage rests on the slides, so as to
take the bearing off the wheels during the last inch of motion inwards, and
transfer it to the slides for greater accuracy.
The next improvement is a self-acting break or apparatus (Sheet 4) for the
purpose of arresting the carriages in their motion outwards, when a thread.
knots, or the tension of the embroidering threads require it, and likewise to
check the velocity of the carriages as they approach the stops in moving
inward. To the outward ends of the framing (F) is fixed. a strong
bracket (70), carrying a short horizontal shaft at right angles to the carriage
rails, having a short perpendicular T head (71 and 72) at the inner end, the
arms of which are respectively about three and a half inches long, and are
furnished with studs rivetted into them at two and a half inches from the.
centre of the shaft, as shewn in the Drawing. At the opposite or outer end of
the shaft a horizontal arm (73), about ten or twelve inches long, is keyed
on, and to its outer end is jointed a piston rod (74). descending into a
cylinder (75) of six or eight inches diameter, and fifteen to eighteen inches
high, placed upon the floor. The piston rod carries a disc or piston (76) at

page_text: the lower end, about quarter inch less in diameter than the cylinder; and is
of such a length as that the end of the arm (73) shall be about two and a
half inches lower than the centre of the shaft when the piston rests on the
bottom of the cylinder. From the end of the short arin, and jointed to it, a
stiff iron rod (77), about three quarters of an inch square, called the concus
sion rod, extends towards the cloth frame inside the carriage, passing close
over 'the carriage beam (Y); and suspended at the inner end by a jointed link
attached to the clearer Fail (78) or to a cross shaft (79) to be hereafter
described. The upper surface of this rod (77) is cut with ratchet teeth, except
about twelve inches at each end, which is left uncut Directly over this
fod: (77) there is attached to the carriage beam (Y)" a-jointed-hooked
catch (80), which, when let down upon the ratchet teeth, will draw the rod (77)
with it when the carriage 'is moving out: This catch is three inches long, and
has a small stud (81) fixed about 'midway on one side, on which is centred a
small lever (82) carrying studs at each end' projecting outward. On these studs
slotted links (83 and 84) jointed to the tension wires of the fallers slide freely
up and down, the outer one jointed to the upper faller, and the inner one to
the under faller, and the slots about two and a quarter inches long; the length
of the links are such as that when the fallers are in their normal position, and
the small lever (82) horizontal, the studs of the latter, shall rest on the bottom
of the slots in the two links, when the point of the catch (80). is three-eighths of
an inch above the surface of the rod (77) The only remaining point to notice
is the strong strap or chain (85) attached at one end to the stud (72) 'in the
lower arm of the T shaft, and at the other end to the carriage at 86. The strap
requires to be adjusted in length so as to be tightened by the inward motion of
the carriage when the latter is within one' to one and a half inches' of the inner
stop. By this connection, the furtlier inward motion of 'the carriage raises the
piston (76), which is to be immersed in water to a depth of six to twelve
inches more or less, as may be required, to check or reduce sufficiently the
momentum of the carriage when about to strike the stops (Z), or when the
faller rises in nioving out. The action of the apparatus will be as follows:-
As often as the carriage is drawn out so as to tighten the embroidering threads,
the faller wire is raised by their tension, and the tension wire at the opposite
ends of the arms depressed. The like effect is produced by the tension of any
one or more of the embroidering threads; occasioned by knots or other
obstruction to the passage of the threads through the cloth while the carriage
is moving outwards. The depression of the back or tension' wires of one.or
both fallers lets down the catch (80), which, taking into the teeth of the con-
cussion bar (77); forces the latter outwards by a pull corresponding to the

page_text: momentum of the carriage, and, acting on the stud (71) through the shaft and
arm (73), suddenly raises the piston, and with it the superincumbent water in
the cylinder (75), on which the momentum is expended. But, as the piston is
less in diameter than the cylinder, the resistance is momentary, as the water
resumes its level immediately, and the piston sinks again to its resting place
whenever, the fallers assume their 'normal position 'or the carriages move.in:
It will be seen that the same apparatus acts to neutralize the momentum of
the carriage in approaching the stops in going in, by means of the connection
of the strap (85) with the carriage at one end, and the lower arm' (72) of the
Thead at the other. It will also be evident that the necessary 'resistance' and
its 'momentary duration may be obtained by the employment of air to be com-
pressed or rarified by the sudden action of a piston & cylinder adapted to air.
This apparatus may be applied to one or both ends of the same carriage, but
in the latter case, instead of applying a full duplicate apparatus to the other
end, I prefer to enlarge the cylinder and piston, together with the bracket and
T'shaft, and to limit the duplicate parts to the concussion bars (77), and the
catch and links on the carriages; but in that case the inner end of the con-
cussion bars is jointed to the short arms of a strong cross shaft shewn at (79),
which lies in bearings in the brackets (87) firmly fixed to the framing. By
this arrangement, the pull on the opposite concussion bar is transmitted
through the cross-shaft and first concussion bar to the piston. To provide for
the action of the break on the opposite end of the carriage when approaching
the stops, a duplicate strap is there employed, differing from the first one only
in that it is passed over a pulley (Fig. 2, 88) on a strong stud projecting
from the end of the framing, so as to draw the concussion bar outwards simul-
taneously with the action of the other strap.
My next improvement is in the permanent cloth frame, and is shewn at
Figs. 9 and 10, Sheet 2. It consists in a new mode of fixing or holding the
cloth in a state of tension to receive the embroidery. "In the front face of the top
and bottom, or otlier rails of the cloth frame (50), are sunk two flat-bottomed
grooves (51) about quarter of an inch deep, and half an inch wide, with
rounded lips, and a space of about one and a half inches between the grooves.
In the centre line of the space there are bored three holes through the rails,
one at each end and one in the middle. Through these holes, well fitted bolts
(52) project forwards, screwed and provided with thumb nuts at the outer
ends. Through a rib (53) corresponding with the width and length of the
space afore-mentioned, three similar holes are bored to receive the screwed
ends of the bolts. To this rib are hinged at right angles, two straight edges
(54) of the same length, and of such a thickness as 'to enter easily into the
grooves (51). The bottom of these grooves, and the edges" of the straight

page_text: edges are lined with thin india-rubber or other elastic material. In using
this apparatus, the cloth is passed over the face of the frame from the, back
side, and down the face of the same, over the grooves (51), and under the
bottom rail to the back again, or otherwise over the face of the cloth frame by
any of the ordinary modes in use. When the cloth to be embroidered is so
disposed, the straight edge apparatus (53) is entered on the bolts (52), and
screwed up so as to press gently on the cloth, but not so hard as to prevent its
proper. adjustment in the frame. When the cloth is in the desired position
to receive the embroidery, the straight edges are then screwed up tight, and
the cloth is firmly held with more or less tension, according to the depth
of the grooves. It will be seen that the centre screw is only available when
narrow cloth is used, and that when cloth of greater width than half the width
of the cloth frame is to be fixed, the pressure must be effected by means of the
end screws alone..
My next improvement is a skeleton cloth frame, in which the cloth is fixed
and extended without injury from marking or fraying out of the embroidery
machine, and carried to it in an extended and adjusted form in the skeleton
frame. The construction I have found most effective and convenient is that
shewn in Figs. 7 and 8, Sheet 2. The Drawings represent a single frame for
one piece of cloth only. The side ribs of the frames are of thin sheet iron
formed into narrow troughs, as shewn at 60, Fig. 7, Sheet 2. The trough
runs lengthways, and is about five-eighths of an inch wide and deep, and has
the inner side bevilled or hollowed so as to be wider towards the bottom of the
groove than.at the mouth. These ribs may also be formed of wood or other
suitable material admitting of grooves such as are described. These ribs are
connected together at the ends by flat pieces of iron (64) of about one inch
wide, and not exceeding one-eighth of an inch thick, which are attached at 61
to the ribs in the plane of the face or lip of the grooves. The grooves are
constructed to receive each a steel wire of about one quarter of an inch
diameter, and rather shorter than the length of the troughs covered with india-
rubber, as shown at (62), and also thin filling-in pieces of wood (63) to force
the wire against the dovetailed or hollow side of the groove. In using the
frame, it is laid on a table with the face or open side of the troughs uppermost,
the top of the table consisting of spars extending lengthways under the grooved
ribs so as to leave an opening in the top of the table corresponding to the
opening in the cloth frame. One edge of the cloth to be embroidered (65) is
passed over one of the covered wires which is then imbedded in the groove on
one side of the frame, care being taken that both edges of the cloth hang over
the inside edge of the groove in the position of the dotted lines, and that the
part of the surface where the embroidery is required shall be sufficiently within

page_text: the frame to admit of its being acted on by the needles when extended. The
filling-in piece is then put in behind the wire, as shewn in Fig. 7 and 8, and
the cloth on that side is firmly held. The other wire is then passed under the
cloth, and held parallel to the groove into which it is about to be placed, and
within the limits of the frame, so that the loose edge hanging over the wire
shall fall within the frame. The wire is then carefully brought to the inner
lip of the groove on that side, the cloth being meanwhile tightened by its
friction in passing over the india-rubber surface of the wire, and when the
wire is in contact with the lip from end to end, it is then pressed down with the
cloth into the grooves or troughs, and the filling-in piece pressed in behind it.
The cloth is thus firmly fixed at both sides, as shown in Fig. 7, and the ends
are then drawn or fixed by templets, or other ordinary means, to the end
pieces (64), and the frame is ready to be placed in any required position in the
permanent cloth frame. It will be seen that the same effect of holding firmly
the cloth without marking it may be secured by lining the grooves with india-
rubber or cloth, and employing bare wires; and other modes might be
described of fixing the cloth to skeleton cloth frames by the same means,
viz., by pressure, and the use of elastic surfaces, as also to detached ribs to be
fixed in the permanent cloth frame after the cloth is attached to the said ribs ;
but the foregoing is the best and most practical application of the principle.
The last of my improvements is in the construction of the threading stands
(see Sheet 3), the object being to secure a uniform length of the embroidering
thread. (Fig. 1) represents a front, and Fig. 2 a side elevation of the upper
part of the stand to which the improvements are confined. Fig. 2 shows the
stand to be a double one, so as to accommodate a threader on each side;
(a, a,) the bobbins of embroidering thread; (b), a gas-light to aid the sight and
to singe the end of the thread to facilitate the threading; (c, c,) pointed pins
with a groove or shoulder half an inch from the point. Above the pins, and
at the distance of two and three quarter inches from them, are two penknife
blades (d, d.) for cutting the thread; (e, e,) are for holding the unthreaded
needles; (f) is an upright flat bar with a cross head at the top carrying
pullies (9,9,), and an arm (h, h,) to receive the top end of the perpendicular
wire (i, i), on which slides a socket (k, k), shewn also full size in Fig. 3, having
a projecting finger in front (1), and a forked arm behind (Fig. 6, m). The
fork m clips the upright bar (f), which thus acts as a guide to the socket in
its motion up and down. The lower end of the wire is fixed in a projecting
bracket (n) from the wooden upright centre piece of the stand (o). To a
catch (s) on the socket (k) is attached a band which, passing over the pullies.
(9,9,) at the top, and weighted at the other end (p), acts so as to draw
the socket up to a sliding stop (2) on the upright (f), which is set by means

page_text: 3...
over
of a screw so as to regulate the length of the threads. This, set, s
slide has a
short wire pin in front ( Fig. 3 and 4), which is so placed as to be laid hold
of by the hooked catch (s) jointed on the socket (k), when the latter, arrives at
the stop. The tail (t) of this catch, by which it is detached from the pin
when required, projects forwards on the left side of the wire (?). At the
bottom of the upright (f), and on, the, left side, is cut a flat retaining notch
(u, Fig. 5) about
about one-eighth of an inch.deep, into which the fork of the sliding
socket enters when the socket is pulled down to n, and by, which it is retained till
its ascent is required. In threading with this stand, the threader draws the
socket down to the retaining, notch (u), and adjusts the set slide (q), to give
the proper length of thread, and then takes a needle out of the needle dish (e);
and having threaded it with the loose end from, the bobbin, and stitched the
thread as usual, places the loop on the pin (c), and passes the thread ov
the finger (1) of the socket, at the same time, releasing the socket arm from
the retaining notch. The socket immediately slides, up to the set stop! (by the
action of the weight), carrying the embroidering thread with it. The catch (s)
then falls over the pin. (1), and retains the socket at the set stop, while the
threader cuts the thread to the right length by drawing it tight and passing it
under the pin (c), and over the knife blade, (d). The other needle is then
threaded, at the cut end, and. run up the thread, till it corresponds with the
pin (c), when the thread is doubled at that point and stitched. The two
needles are then held together between the finger and thumb of the threader's
right hand, who, by drawing the threads tight, and by movement of her hand
towards the left, disengages the catch (s) by the pressure of the thread against
the arm (t), and draws down the socket to its original position at the retaining
notch. The doubled end or loop is then taken off the finger (1), and the thread
with its needles wound on a spool as usual..
.
Having now described; by the aid of the Drawings, my several improve-
ments in embroidering, machines and apparatus. connected therewith, and
shown how the same are to be constructed, applied, and. performed, I hereby
declare that the same may, be varied in many ways, still; presenting and
preserving the same distinctive characters, and accomplishing the same ends;
and that I claim all such various modes of constructing and applying the
several improvements herein set forth and described to embroidering machines
for the purposes of embroidering, whether used singly or in combination in
connection with such machines, or for such purposes.
:
י.
54.
In. witness whereof, I, the said. Henry Houldsworth, have' hereunto.set
my hand and seal, this .. day of, in the year of our
Lord One, thousand eight hundred and fifty-two.: ...
bora ylva é voltagHENRY(LS) (HOULDSWORTH
bhara yıl vad kan tydpHENRY(s) (HOULDSWORTH

page_text: AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the Ninth day of December, in
the year of our Lord 1852, the aforesaid Henry Houldsworth came before
our said Lady the Queen in Her Chancery, and acknowledged the Specification
aforesaid, and all and every thing therein contained and specified, in form
above written. And also the Specification aforesaid was: stamped according to
the tenor of the Statute made for that purpose.
Enrolled the Tenth day of December, in the year of our Lord One
Enrolled the Tenth day of December, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and fifty-two.