Improvements in and in the Manufacture of Glove and other Hosiery Fabrics.
Year: 1894

page_text: Date of Application, 28th Nov., 1894
Complete Specification Left, 24th Aug., 1895-Accepted, 23rd Nov., 1895
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in and in the Manufacture of Glove and other
Hosiery Fabrics.
I, JOHN POTTERTON, of No. 23, Arnold Street, Leicester, in the County of
Leicester Glove Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be
as follows:-
68
This invention relates to improvements in and in the manufacture of glove and
other hosiery fabrics, the object being to provide a solid patterned fabric all of a
like substance, knitted upon a warp knitting frame known as a
frame without filling the back of the fabric with loose loops as is now the case in
glove hand
plaiting different coloured threads from a warp beam by aid of a "check machine"
upon a plain ground. In which if any such warp patterning threads are left out in
any part thereof a thin and flimsy plain fabric is the result, this is a great draw-
back not only in glove hands" but in other articles of hosiery made in a like
manner; for the places left un-covered by such plaiting or patterning threads
leave a weak and non-substantial fabric, besides broken and irregular patterns, in
fact it is impossible to produce a solid pattern such as "diamonds" or
diagonal unbroken patterns by plaiting upon a plain knitted fabric.
other
spaces are left in the warp beam no design would follow. To carry out my
invention I commence knitting what is well known as Ringwood tuck work"
"
"
For if any
to form the basis of the fabric, and in every other course of knitting the movable
presser bar is caused to act upon every other needle in the fixed needle bar, and in
the same course the falling bar will be moved to take up the slack loop made by
the tuck presser, this operation thickening the fabric, then by aid of the
"check machine," thread carriers and warp thread guides, the latter wrapping over
the needles which have been tucked in the previous course; thus causing a
knob " of the colour desired to appear on every other needle and consequently on
the surface of the fabric.
3
$6
tuck
In a hand frame springs control the "check machine" and "
in power driven looms or frames by the means hereinafter described, for producing
falling bar," and
fancy solid extended or contracted patterns upon a
cannot be produced on a plain or ribbed ground.
"tuck ground," and which
understood I will give the following example.
That my invention may be well
If I want to make a pattern of
"trellis work or continuity of diamonds and fill up the centre with tuck patterning
stitches, the warp beam will only require to carry the outline threads put through
one or more sets of warp thread guides, the other threads being tucked in as many
courses and widths as desired. Such " Ringwood tuck" fabric not being weakened
by leaving out the warp threads, which is the case when patterning on a plain
ground, and such patterns cannot be extended or contracted or even thoroughly
completed, but by this my invention they can be altered at will without
interfering or weakening the fabric.
".
Ringwood tuck ”
I arrange
To automatically produce the said patterned fabric on a
ground in warp knitting frames, or rotary machines driven by power
that the presser bar, "known as the tuck presser
of a claucker in the usual manner, and in every other course of knitting the said
"shall move horizontally by aid
movable presser will act upon every other needle in the fixed needle bar, and in the
same course the falling bar will rise sufficiently to take up the slack loop from the
tuck needles this enables me to leave threads out from the warp thread guides

page_text: moved horizontally or vertically to and from the needles in wrapping the thread
thereon without weakening the fabric; in each alternate course the falling bar
will resume its inactive position.
"
In the intervening courses the " check machine" is brought into use to get the
necessary design on the tucked ground which is also striped in every course, or
alternate courses if horizontal stripes or spots are required. The above are
accomplished by employing a toothed wheel timed to act in every course, or
alternate courses, by cams on the outer face of said "time wheel," fixed in bracket
on front of the cam shaft, the warp thread guides being moved by a wheel cut for
each pattern on an auxiliary shaft; while in each alternate course in raising or
lowering the falling bar to shorten or lengthen the tucked loop for thickening or
spotting the fabric, on a shaft fitted in bearings on the top rail of the frame
carrying the needle bar, are levers which come under "star spindles actuating
and regulating such falling bar and raising or lowering the sinkers at will. This
latter shaft is shogged by means of a lever and cams on the "time wheel." To
stop the movement of such shaft a lever and slide truck is fixed on the front rail
of the frame operated by hand or power as desired. To operate the check
machine in every other course when the falling bar and tuck presser is not in
operation I employ a double flanged wheel on end of frames worked by a ratchet
wheel on short cross shaft, upon each of the flanges are small cams which, work the
one, two, or three slide bars known as the "check machine" according to the
pattern required during such intervening courses. To give motion to the check
machine the ordinary rocking movement is used, and in every other course a
forward and backward movement in connection with the jack bar which the
"machine" follows, said machine is arranged to be close under the needles
where the thread is required to be lapped by means of suitable cams on the main
driving shaft. When the frame is coming forward after the machine has wrapped
the warp threads over the needles the "machine' will tip in its motion sufficient to
clear the face of the frame and when the course is completed the " machine
assuming its first position allows the falling bar and tuck presser to work in each
alternate course, and to work the "check machine" in every other course necessitates
the employment of another time wheel similar to the one regulating the falling
bar.
<<
"3
"
"
If a larger spot or a thicker substance is desired in the tuck fabric I use the
falling bar with the tuck pressers for two courses, and then employ the check
machine in the third course to lap the needles which have been tucked in the two
previous courses.
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By the above combination I am enabled to produce on hand or rotary knitting
frames a large variety of fancy solid extended or contracted patterns upon
Ringwood tuck ground without a break in such patterns, applicable to glove
hands, legs of hose, half-hose, socks and the like, and more particularly to produce
fancy cycle hose
on such machines, having graduated diamond designs extended
and enlarged in size from the ankle to the knee, and without necessarily filling the
warp beam with coloured patterning threads as is now the case. The said designs
consisting of long or short coloured loops in straight parallel, zig zag, diamond,
square or other solid pattern in appearance similar on both sides, except that those
in the reverse face are loose to a certain extent, but the continuity of pattern is
still preserved on both sides without having to fill the back entirely with loose
loops.
"
,,
The fabric is also produced all the same in substance, for where the patterning
does not appear such meshes are made up of Ringwood tuck work. Such
patterns or designs can also at any time be varied in width in single or odd courses
during knitting as desired from time to time.
W. B. MAXFIELD,
Applicant's Agent.

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in and in the Manufacture of Glove and other
Hosiery Fabrics.
I, JOHN POTTERTON, of No. 23, Arnold Street, Leicester, in the County of
Leicester, Glove Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and
in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement:-
"
"
This invention relates to improvements in and in the manufacture of glove and
other hosiery fabrics, the object being to provide a solid patterned fabric all of a
like substance, knitted upon a warp knitting frame known as a glove hand
frame"
without filling the back of the fabric with loose loops as is now the case
in plaiting different coloured threads from a warp beam by aid of a check machine"
upon a plain ground. In which if any of such warp patterning threads are left
out in any part thereof a thin and flimsy plain fabric is the result, this is a great
drawback not only in " glove hands" but in other articles of hosiery made in a
like manner, for such places left un-covered by the plaiting or patterning threads
leave a weak and non-substantial fabric, besides broken and irregular patterns, in
fact it is impossible to produce a solid pattern such as "diamonds" or other
diagonal unbroken patterns by plaiting upon a plain knitted fabric.
For if any
spaces are left in the warp beam no design would follow. That my invention may
be well understood with reference to power driven rotary frames I have annexed
two sheets of drawings and have used therein figures of reference for those parts
that are well known to exist in such machines, and letters of reference to those
parts which are new and form the subject of this invention.
Figure 1, Sheet 1 is a front elevation of a power driven glove frame, or warp
knitting frame showing the contrivances for carrying out my invention. Figure 1A
Sheet 2 is a view looking through the machine of the rod H, levers N, n¹, and
their connections and Figure 1B, Sheet 2 shows one of the adjustable points or
fingers I and recesses i, therein in which the lower end of the star spindles fall
when desired
Figure 2, Sheet 1 is an upper view of the mechanism employed for imparting
the longitudinal movement of the guide bar, or bars.
Figure 3, Sheet 1, is a front view of the time wheel, lever and rod which
controls the pattern wheel to attain the above object. The ordinary pattern
chain is not shown in this figure.
Figure 4, Sheet 2 shows the mechanism imparted for wrapping the warp threads
upon the needles, and Figure 5, Sheet 2 is a front view of same.
Figure 6, Sheet 2 is a broken front view of the contrivance employed for holding
up the warp threads, after " casting off."
Figure 7, Sheet 2 is a front broken view of the guide bar showing how the warp
threads are threaded therethrough and hereinafter described, and Figure 8,
Sheet 2 is a diagramatic view of an unbroken pattern hereinafter referred to.
Similar figures and letters of reference are used to like parts in all the figures.
in which they occur.
In carrying out my invention I commence knitting what is known as "Ringwood
tuck work" to form the basis of the fabric, and in every other or alternate courses
of knitting I cause the movable presser bar to act only upon every other needle
in the fixed needle bar and in the same course the falling bar is moved and takes
up the slack loop made by the tuck presser, to thicken the fabric, in the next
course the "check machine" moves up, through and over those needles which
have been tucked in the previous course, the thread carries in the meantime
moving to compose the body of the fabric, and the warp thread guides wrap over

page_text: the aforesaid needles, such needles having been previously selected or determined
by aid of the pattern wheels D, thus causing either a double or single tuck stitch
knob to appear on the surface of the fabric.
By the above process fancy solid extended or contracted patterns are produced
which is impossible upon a plain or ribbed ground as now made in glove hands or
the like in such machines.
"
To make a pattern for example, of "trellis work" on a tuck ground, such being a
continuity of diamonds I fill up the centre of the diamond with tuck patterning
stitches, and provide the warp beam with only outline threads see right hand
portion of Figure 7, Sheet 2 of the drawings "threaded through one or more sets
(two shown) of warp thread guides, the remaining threads, being "carrier threads "
being tucked in as many courses and widths as from time to time desired.
By not filling the warp beam, or leaving out all threads but those mentioned
I do not weaken or even interfere with the Ringwood tuck fabric, but I should do
so if I attempted such patterning on a plain ground, for patterns could not be
extended or contracted or even thoroughly completed by so doing.
The great
advantage of this my invention consists in the fact that the pattern can be altered
at will without interfering with, or weakening the fabric.
"
To automatically produce an endless variety of patterned fabric on a Ringwood
tuck ground" in warp plaiting machines, or power driven rotary frames I arrange
that the presser bar 1, known as the tuck piesser shall move horizontally by and
of the well-known means (not shown in the drawings) and in every other course of
knitting the said tuck presser is brought into contact and will act upon every
other needle in the fixed needle bar 2, Figure 4," and in the same course the
falling bar 12 will rise sufficiently to take up the slack loops from the tucked work
and being underneath the jacks 4 carrying the sinkers 5 see Figure 4" Sheet 2
it regulates or stops the jacks from falling too-far in the tucked courses of
knitting, they rise in one course, and again in alternate courses this enables the
machine proper to have sufficient knocking over power to clear each "tuck knob
from the needles and I am also enabled to leave threads out from the warp thread
guides 7 such thread guides being moved both horizontally and vertically to and
from the needles in the process of wrapping the threads thereon.
68
"
The falling bar 12 being rendered inactive in alternate courses, the "check
machine "6, is brought into use in the intervening courses to make the design upon
the tucked courses, said fabric may be also striped across in any course or courses,
or spots be made of a different contrasting colour when desired by the usual
means and in the ordinary manner. The mechanism for operating the "check
machine"
and warp thread guides in presenting the threads in wrapping the
needles is arranged in the following or equivalent manner. A toothed time
wheel secured on the main shaft 9 carries on its left face "
see Figure 1"
a cam a which engages with the roller a¹ at the end of the rod a² and is returned
to its normal position by the spring a fastened at its outer end to the side of the
frame A, the rod a³ extends the whole length of the frame and carries at intervals
(see Figures 4 and 5), forked guides a³, which support the curved lever a³, pivoted
at ax on the lever a, the tail of the lever a, engaging the shifting roller a³, such
roller is fitted on pin in the lever a said lever being held at its inner end by a
spring (not shown) secured to the back rail of the frame, and the roller a³, is held
to the cams B, C, such lever a being fulcrummed at a to the bracket a³, the
outer end thereof being connected to the vertical adjustable lever a, secured to
lever a, which swings on the pin a", in the bracket a¹s secured on the front face
of the check machine "
6, at intervals along the frame; when the roller a³, is
upon the second, or lower cam B " as seen in Figures 4 and 5 Sheet 2 of the
drawings" the jacks 5, tuck pressers 1, and carriers (the latter not shown) are
accomplishing the ordinary motions of the machine in making the tuck ground,
when the roller a, rises and comes upon the nose or extended portion of the cam C
"check machine' is depressed and the thread guides 7, are raised up to and
then away from the needles after wrapping the threads thereon in accordance with
the

page_text: "
the manner in which they have been previously threaded from their arrangement
on the warp beam 9 to produce the desired colour and pattern Such warp beam
is arranged to brackets in the sides of the frame in the ordinary well known
manner. To throw the check machine out of gear and prevent the warp thread
guides going through the needles when it is desired to make a plain tucked fabric
in any course, the rod a³ Figure 5, Sheet 2 when in gear to the machine is moved
to the left, when the catch a falls down and is caught against the projecting head
of the collar a** as seen in Figure 5 secured to the shaft by a screw which will
prevent the rod moving back, and also the machine from tipping through the
needles, when the catch a, is lifted up again the rod a³ will move to the right
through the influence of a spring attached thereto see Figure 1.” The movement
for shifting the already wrapped threads from needle to needle, or from one needle
over several others is accomplished by aid of the pattern wheel, or wheels D one
is employed to move each warp thread guide bar, said wheels are fitted on the
auxiliary stationary shaft d secured in the bearings d¹, affixed to the side of the
frame A, a tension plate or brake x is put on the wheel or wheels, and secured
to the collar or collars which are firmly secured to the shaft d by set screws as at X
Figure 2, such movement of the guide bars being regulated by the pre-arrangement
of the removable dogs d secured in the holes 3 by screws d', these dogs varying
in length according to the number of needles it is desired to cover, and to move
the bar or bars accordingly, the said dogs engage the lever ends of the gauge
bars which are free to move in their holders do and , the latter secured to the
frame A, and carried in or by the supports 7, the outer ends of such gauge bars
are provided with circular, or rounded ended plates d, which come against the
tipping rollers 10 fixed rigidly upon or near the ends of the guide bars
Figures 1 and 2, Sheet 1 When the "check machine" comes forward from the
needles after serving the threads by the machine guides and carriers;
rollers do pitch forward and are kept at the same time to the faces of the plates d³,
this enables the gauge bars, machine and pattern wheels to move said bars while
at any angle, both pattern wheels move together being secured to the boss coming
between the two, the back wheel carries a rack wheel 13, which is prevented from
moving in the wrong direction by the pawl adjustable in the bracket 113 " see
Figures 1 and 2.
"
**
see
the
The front wheel is racked by aid of the time wheel E having on its outer
face the cam e "shown in Figure 3" formed of two adjustable wings arranged
to time the wheel E so that the wheel is racked twice in every other course of
knitting, and by fixing a duplicate cam of the same size and form on the upper
part of the wheel, the pattern wheel can be racked twice in every course, and
cause the warp threads to pass the distance desired under and over the needles
backwards and forwards from that end of the frame to which the pattern wheels are
fixed.
The roller mounted on end of lever e³ and centrally pivoted at o to the
bracket carries at its outer end the racking bar or pawl having a balance
weight to keep it to the side of the wheel D, and a spring e, keeps it to the
rack wheel №13 The gauge screw ex regulates the fall of the rack bar e.
When it is not necessary to use the pattern wheel or wheels D, when it is desired
to finish a plain set to make it suitable for running on the fingers of gloves and
the like, the operator shifts the plate e fitted on the top of the guiding bracket 10
and so moves the racking bar or pawl e steadied by the forked end of the
bracket so that the pawl is clear of the rack wheel d¹³¸ The time wheel E is
geared to the pinion F, mounted on front of the boss of the cam 8 on the end of
the main shaft 9, the cam 8 being employed to raise or lower the lever 10 and
rod 11 ordinarily used in throwing out the carriers in the process of striping in
such machines.
In producing odd courses or forming spots of the colour desired upon the tuck
stitches I employ the ordinary pattern chain G and wheel 92; the chain running over
pulleys or runners g, and held at proper tension by weights see Figure 1. The
66

page_text: one
said wheel is operated by a cam in rear of the cam 8 and clawker 8, and upon the
dogs g', set at required intervals in the links of the chain striking the stud 8° raises
the lever 10 and rod 11 connected to the thread carriers, and reverses from
carrier to the other. When tucking on every other needle in alternate courses the
threads are loose in the tuck course and tight in the next, and of necessity more
power is required in the tuck course than in the other in which the machine laps
the threads over the needles. Now to obtain the required power to properly clear
the work over the heads of the needles I employ the bar H, which extends to
nearly the whole length of the frame, cared in brackets h, placed at intervals on
the top rail 13, said bar is provided with holders h¹ to which are adjustably attached
points or fingers I which according to the sliding position of the bar come into
contact with the star spindles 14, 14 and 15, their lower ends falling into recesses i
in the said points or fingers, and are raised when coming upon the raised portion
thereof, thus lowering or raising the falling bar 12 which controls the jacks and
sinkers.
The movement of the bar H is effected by the link J "dotted line Figure 1"
which is connected to the bar and to the vertical lever K, pivoted to a hanging
piece j, secured on the front rail 13, the lower arm L is slotted to receive the link M,
the lower end of which is cranked and secured at m to the roller lever N, carried
in the bracket n¹ secured to the back rail Nx of the frame see Figures 1 and 1A,
the slide truck n on lever N moves over and under the cams n³ fitted on the right
side of the time wheel O, carried in the bracket 0¹, see Figure 1," said time
wheel gears with a pinion 0% mounted on the main shaft 9. The roller lever N is
66
66
removed from contact with the cams n³ by the operator moving the hand lever n,
and throwing the link M out of gear, said hand lever is pivotally connected to the
lever N and is forked at its inner end to embrace the said link M, said bar is
brought back by the spring he hooked on to the right end thereof.
tr
The check machine is carried by the end levers P from the machine shaft p,
hanging in brackets pl on the front rail 13 of the frame, the lower part of such
levers are provided with a foot p³ which come against the buffer plate ³ see
Figure 4, Sheet 2' and obviates the levers tipping too-far forwards. The upper
end of the levers are attached to adjustable pivots Q and give the rocking motion
in the act of lapping the warp threads and in clearing the machine during the
ordinary motion thereof, the projecting ends g, are attached to the machine 6, and
held by hooks R which are made in two parts, one adjustable upon the other, the
upper vertical end being secured to the pin r at the ends of the
jack bar" see
Figure 4, Sheet 2," and being in the centre of the frame it gives to the "check
machine" a direct motion in following or leaving the sinkers during the motion of
the frame, or the motion of the machine may be steadied by placing cams
main shaft which will engage with the foot p³ of the levers P., if preferred.
"
on the
To make patterns with a large spot or of a thicker substance than before
mentioned; the plaiting of the fabric will take place in every third course instead
of in every second course, and the pattern wheel or wheels D and time wheel E will
rack twice in every third course of knitting, as will also the falling bar 12 and the
time wheel O
Before knitting or introducing the warp threads I work a plain and a tucked
course, and connect the check machine to the needles with the previous sets of
fabric hanging to the guide bar after pressing off," I now by the aid of tho
bars S (see Figure 6 Sheet 2") placed between the hanging cheeks in each
division of the frame, and hang them on the hooks T for supporting and holding
up the warp threads close to the needles whilst the check machine tips and racks
over the needles, and again falls through the needles just sufficient to connect the
threads to the needles, the bar or bars S is or are then taken from off the hooks T and
'dropped down out of the way until again required to connect the next set or sets of
threads. Each set of articles are
pressed off"
the needles when the required
length of work has been obtained and the bar or bars $ are brought into requisition
for re-connecting at the beginning of cach set.

page_text: To facilitate the threading of the said warp threads, the guide bars 7ª, 7B,
overlap the front of the machine as seen in Figures 2, 4 and 7 and suitable holes U
or slots are made by preference at an angle therein and the warp threads
threaded therethrough as per examples shown in Figures 4 and 7.
66
By the aid of the aforesaid contrivances I am enabled to produce in power driven
rotary or hand frames designed for making tucked and warp knitted or plaited
fabrics an immense variety of fancy solid, or unbroken patterns, either extended or
contracted, and altered at will on a Ringwood tuck ground without a break in the
pattern applicable alike to legs of hose, half-hose, socks and the like as well as
glove hands," and more particularly in fancy "cycle hose" made on such machines
having graduated diamond designs extended or enlarged in size from the ankle to
the knee, and without necessarily filling the warp beam or roller 9 with coloured
patterning threads as is now the case in plaiting upon a plain ground.
66
The said designs consisting of long or short coloured loops in straight parallel,
zig, zag diamond, square or other solid pattern in appearance similar on both sides
of the work except that the loops in the reverse face are loose to a certain extent
but the continuity of pattern is still preserved on both sides without having to fill
the back entirely with loose loops like as at present in such machines.
in
Another advantage is with my fabric that it is produced all the same
substance for where the patterning does not appear such meshes are made up of
"Ringwood tuck work." Such patterns or designs can also at any time be varied
in width in single or odd courses during knitting as desired from time to time.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of this inven-
tion and in what manner the same IS to be performed I declare that what I
claim is.
1. In power driven rotary looms or frames, or glove hand frames wherein knitted
warp fabrics are produced, the making of extended or contracted patterns exclusively
upon a Ringwood tuck ground by the means and in the manner substantially as
СС
described.
"
"
a
2. In the production of fancy solid extended or contracted patterns upon
'Ringwood tuck ground the means for wrapping the warp threads by the aid of
the cams and other devices attached to and in combination with the check machine
in frames or knitting looms of the character hereinbefore described.
3. In a rotary machine or hand knitting frame the combination of a
tucked fabric" with a striped, spotted and warp plaited solid extended or contracted
unbroken pattern produced in the manner and by the means als hereinbefore
described.
<<
Ringwood
4. In the process of automatically producing solid fancy patterns of warp plaited
work in unbroken designs, the employment of a pattern wheel or wheels working
loosely on auxiliary shaft; the dogs thereof varying in length and engaging with
gauge bars" sliding in their holders and impinging against rollers fixed upon the
ends of the guide bars, to move said bars in their movement in carrying the warp
threads above and below the needles, and from one needle to the other, rack wheel,
tension plate or brake for steadying the said patterning wheels, and the means for
racking the said wheels and throwing rack bar out of gear substantially as herein
described and illustrated by the accompanying drawings.
5. In rotary frames of the character described the employment of levers such
as P with foot p³, buffer plates p³ adjustable pivots such as Q, ends q held by
hooks R for the purpose of operating the "check machine "
in the lapping
operation and in clearing the machine during the ordinary motion of the frame
substantially as described and as herein illustrated.
6. The herein described means and appliances for shogging the sliding shaft H:
to operate the star spindles in lowering or raising the falling bar and shorten or
lengthen the tucked loops for thickening the Ringwood tuck fabric."
66
7. In power driven rotary knitting frames the employment of a pattern chain

page_text: such as G attached to the end of the frame for the purpose substantially
described.
66
38
8. In holding or annexing the warp threads after pressing off" the employment
of a bar such as S, resting on the hooks T, for the purpose of non-interference
with the hanging cheeks of the frame.
9 In guide bars for use in hand and power driven rotary frames overlapping
said bars and making suitable holes or slots as U, U¹ for passing the warp threads
therethrough
ог
10. In a power driven rotary frame the combination with the presser bar or tuck
pressers, jacks and sinkers, falling bar, check machine, front rail, main shaft, warp
beam;
of time wheels, cams operating sliding bar and star spindles to raise
lower falling bar, adjustable rocking pivots carrying check machine, rollers
attached to warp guide plates, adjustable guage bars operated by pattern wheels
mounted on auxiliary shaft carrying rack wheel, clawker, and racked by aid of
time wheel and pinion on end of main shaft, guage screw, steadying hooks on ends
of check machine connected to jack bar, cams on main shaft operating adjustable
levers connected or linked to the front face of the machine, and means for checking
the motion of the frame all substantially in the manner and for the purposes
herein before described and as illustrated by the accompanying drawings."
as
11. Improvements in and in the manufacture of glove and other hosiery fabrics
by the means and appliances as herein described and set forth.
1805
W. BESTWICK MAXFIELD,
Registered Patent Agent,
19, Bowling Green Street, Leicester, Applicant's Agent.