Year: 1886

page_text: We, EMILY ANN LAMBERT, Assistant Mistress under the School Board for London,
and ARTHUR FREDERICK LAMBERT, Surgical Instrument Maker, both of N° 38,
Mayfield Road, Dalston, in the County of Middlesex, do hereby declare the nature
of this invention to be as follows:-
Our invention relates to an improved apparatus for teaching needlework to a
class by demonstration accompanied by viva voce explanation, and is applicable to
the various kinds of needlework capable of being or required to be taught in
schools.
In carrying the invention into effect we make use of a frame of a convenient
size, and preferably rectangular in plan, and supported in any suitable way at a
height convenient to the teacher for the purpose of demonstration.
The inside edge of this frame is furnished with a series of hooks. Eyes or
perforations (as an equivalent) may be used, but we prefer hooks on the score of
convenience.
We attach the piece of material upon which the demonstration is to be made to
these hooks, which therefore hold it up in fair and full view of the pupils.
We use a separate piece of material, or demonstration square, as it might, for the
purpose of this specification, be called, for different subjects. For instance, the
darning demonstration square will not serve for the purpose of teaching the making
of button holes. The material of the demonstration square is, in texture, an
enlarged facsimile of the material represented. Each square is prepared to
represent the condition of the real material before it is taken in hand by the
needlewoman. The darning demonstration square represents the hole, or the thin
place, and the surrounding part. The patching or matching demonstration square
represents the hole after its ragged edges have been trimmed off with the scissors;
all holes for the passage of the needle and thread being made in the square.
Each demonstration square may consist of as many separate pieces as are
necessary to represent accurately to the pupils the exact conditions of the needle-
work to be learnt.

page_text: For such subjects as button-hole making, the demonstration square is moreover
marked out in squares, the line of cut being properly represented; so also for
embroidery, marking and similar or other fancy stitches.
The attachment of parts e.g., buttons, tapes, gussets, and other members of a
garment, is taught in the same way, the materials used being on the same scale.
We always use a cord (representing the cotton or thread) of a different colour
from that of the square, for the sake of distinctness.
PHILLIPS & LEIGH,
Agents for the Applicants.
We, EMILY ANN LAMBERT, Assistant Mistress under the School Board for London,
and ARTHUR FREDERICK LAMBERT, Surgical Instrument Maker, both of No. 38,
Mayfield Road, Dalston, in the County of Middlesex, do hereby declare the nature
of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
Our invention relates to an improved apparatus for teaching needlework to a
class by demonstration accompanied by vivâ voce explanation, and is applicable to
the various kinds of needlework capable of being, or required to be taught, in
.schools.
In carrying the invention into effect, we make use of a frame of a convenient
size, and preferably rectangular in plan, and supported in any suitable way at a
height convenient to the teacher for the purpose of demonstration.
The inside edge of this frame is furnished with a series of hooks. Eyes or
perforations (as an equivalent) may be used, but we prefer hooks on the score of
convenience.
We attach the piece of material upon which the demonstration is to be made to
these hooks, which therefore hold it up in fair and full view of the pupils.
We use a separate piece of material, or demonstration-square, as it might, for
the purpose of this specification, be called, for different subjects. For instance,
the darning demonstration-square will not serve for the purpose of teaching the
making of button-holes. The material of the demonstration square is, in texture,
an enlarged facsimile of the material represented. Each square is prepared to
represent the condition of the real material before it is taken in hand by the

page_text: 5
eedlewoman. The darning demonstration-square represence
lace, and the surrounding part. The patching or matching demonstration-square
epresents the hole after its ragged edges have been trimmed off with the scissors;
ll holes for the passage of the needle and thread being made in the square.
In order that our invention, and the manner of carrying the same into practical
ffect may be thoroughly understood, we will proceed to describe the same in
etail, referring in so doing to the accompanying drawings, which are to be taken
s part of this specification and read therewith.
Fig. 1 is an elevation illustrating the application of our invention.
Fig. 2 is a plan of a compound demonstration-square.
Figs. 3 and 4 are details illustrating the construction of the frame.
A is a frame of any suitable material, size, and shape, and a, a, a, a series of
hooks projecting from its inner edge.
The material we use for the frame is wood, although any other, sufficiently light
and stiff, may be used. The shape illustrated is the one which we consider to be
the best adapted for the purpose of our invention, although we do not confine
ourselves to a square shape. The size of the frame is adapted to the size of the
class and the class room. We find that one about 21 inches square is the most
suitable.
B is a stalk terminating in a square part b, by which the frame and its contents
can be supported in a stand adapted to receive the square part of the stalk, at a
height convenient for both pupils and teacher.
The demonstration-square C illustrated in Figure 1 is a simple one, and because
of its texture can be hooked direct to the hooks a, a, a. The demonstration-square
illustrated in Figure 2 is a compound one, and being made of a close-woven
material, e.g.,-duck, or similar material, has its edges bound and eyeletted, so that
it can be put in and taken out of the frame without its points of connection or its
edges being frayed.
The material selected for our demonstration-squares is always in exaggeration of
the natural fabric the treatment of which is the subject of the lesson, so that the
adaptation of the various stitches to the nature of said fabric may be impressed
upon and easily grasped by the understandings of the pupils. For instance, the
demonstration-square shewn in Fig. 1 is a piece of knitting, and represents a piece
of a gigantic stocking, the lesson being one in darning stockings, the particular
condition of the stocking requiring the attention of the family mender being what
is familiarly known as a thin place," and the demonstration-square is expressly
made to present this familiar appearance. It appears in the centre of the square.
"
The thread c (distinguished by being left unshaded) is drawn in by the needle in
the well known manner, backwards and forwards, such vivâ voce explanation being
given, as the work proceeds, as the teacher may consider advisable or proper for
enlightening the understandings and impressing the memories of her juvenile
charges.
The thread c is on the same scale as the texture of the square, and is always of
a colour easily distinguishable therefrom. With a white square we use a bright
scarlet thread, and if the threads of the work cross each other, as they do in
darning a hole, we use two threads, easily distinguishable from each other and
from the material of the square.
The needle d is also of a proper relative size, but has a comparatively blunt
point, so that it can be easily pushed under and over and between the threads of
the square.
After each lesson, the thread or threads are drawn out of the square, or may be
left in, according as to whether or not it be the practice of the teacher to recapitu-
late the main features of the last lesson before entering upon the details of the
next one.
A further darning task is "darning a hole," one sure to be incurred if the thin
place, the treatment of which is illustrated in Fig. 1, be neglected. The square for

page_text: Geaching how to darn a hole in a stocking will be of the same texture as that jus
described with reference to Fig. 1, but there will be a hole in the centre instead o
a thin place only. In teaching this lesson, we make use of two threads of differen
colours, so that the interlacing of them with each other and with the sound par
of the stocking may not confuse the pupils. We find that a white square, with
one red and one blue thread leave nothing to be desired in point of distinctness
It will be easy to explain why different colours are selected, and so prevent the
children from making a point of achieving violent contrasts in colour when carrying
out repairs on their own clothes, and also to point out that it is not essential to
replenish the needle only when the direction of the thread is changed.
To prevent the hole in the demonstration-square being enlarged until the square
is useless or unmanageable for the purpose of our invention, we have the edges
finished in any convenient way, as by sewing with a thread of an ordinary size
(which will be invisible to the pupils). The hole will therefore present the
appearance when the square is put into the frame, of having had the "bad" cut
away, and the raw edges trimmed off.
For teaching the darning of thin places or holes in blankets or flannels, the
demonstration-square will be of a proper material to convey to the pupil's eye the
true appearance of blanket or flannel, and, for the rest, the lesson will be conducted
as explained above.
In Fig. 2, the demonstration-square is a compound one, that is, it must be, from
the nature of the lesson to be imparted, in more than one piece. The lesson to be
taught by the use of this particular square is one in sewing patches in figured
fabrics (such as chintz curtains, furniture covers, print pinafores, and the like), and
the illustration shews the patch sewn into the hole. The edges of the hole have
been trimmed off leaving it rectangular, (this being the approved shape of a patch),
and the hole slashed at the corners thereby producing pieces to be folded back so
as to give a folded edge to the hole.
The patch is cut to shape, enough being allowed for folding back, sufficient
judgement having been displayed in shaping the hole and cutting out the patch to
secure a perfect coincidence of pattern between the inserted patch and and the old
material. The details of cutting, trimming and matching are explained orally at
the commencement of the lesson and the sewing is then proceeded with.
The eyelets e, e, e, represent the holes made by passing the needle and cotton
through the fabric. But if we were to use an ordinary needle, and make fresh
holes every lesson, the square would soon be worn out. To prevent this we insert
lines of eyelets which ensure the production of regular stitches on the part of the
demonstrator, and, by their size, impress the pupils with correct ideas of position,
distance, and regularity, as well as point out the direction the line of stitches is
to take.
are,
in
The selection of needle and thread is regulated by the same considerations as
already explained with reference to Fig. 1. The teacher, then proceeds to sew the
patch in, and after giving the children time to grasp the effect of the finished
appearance of the inserted patch, is ready to continue the lesson. What
actual patch work, the raw edges of both patch and hole, are, according to our
invention, sewn or bound to prevent their being frayed out, but this sewing or
binding is too small to be visible to the pupils' eyes. We prefer to make the
demoustration-square extra thick by adding a backing of some material which has
the effect of giving it more body and strength.
The outer edges f, f, of the square are preferably bound before the eyelets are
inserted.
The next part of the lesson refers to the treatment of the raw edges of both
patch and hole, which are now out of sight behind the square. When the frame
is turned round, these are at once seen with their flaps or margins banging loose.
The edges of both the flaps of the hole and of the patch are eyeletted to be
button-hole stitched.

page_text: The squares for teaching flannel patch and calico patch are made in substantially
the same way as described above, the material of the respective squares and patches
being selected to look like flannel and calico, all the edges are bound.or hemmed,
and the lines of sewing and length of stitches marked out by eyelets.
The square for teaching how to draw together two cut edges in a garment, as,
for instance, what is known as a diagonal cut, such as one made in a tablecloth by
carelessly cutting a piece of bread thereon, is made as before described; the cut
made in it, and its edges bound. Lines are drawn at right angles with each other
across the square. These represent the threads of the fabric to be repaired, and
the squares they produce stand for the spaces between the threads, so that the
respective number of threads to be picked up and passed over may be easily
pointed out by the teacher and distinctly apprehended by the pupils. As in the
case of the darning-a-hole demonstration-square, and for a like reason, two threads
are used of distinctive colours.
For teaching sewing-on-tape it is not necessary to have a separate square, in fact,
it is more natural to use one from which a lesson in stitching has been given. The
piece of tape is prepared of the proper size and its edges bound to prevent wear.
Lines of eyelets are inserted in it at the end by which it is to be fastened to the
garment, and corresponding ones in the garment. Lines of eyelets are also inserted
at the opposite end, by which the method of turning over and sewing the end can
be taught.
The squares for teaching such lessons as stitching and sewing on tape; hemming;
seaming and felling; tucks; frilling, gathering, and putting in a gusset, are made
in substantially the same way as those we have described above in detail, but it
is clear that they need not be of the full size of the frame, and some of them could
not be fixed to the frame all the way round.
For instance, for teaching frilling, the demonstration-square will be less than an
exact square, and some of its edges necessarily free. The band of the frill is
eyeletted along the line of connection of the frill to it.
So with the square for teaching gathering. The edge of the gathering must be
left free. A similar consideration decides the treatment of the gusset-square. It
is simply suspended from the top of the frame, so that the teacher can easily lift
it up to shew how the work proceeds, and the appearance of it on either side.
In teaching button-holing, we mark the square out in small squares, the lines
representing the threads (or warp and weft). The button hole is ready cut and its
edges bound, while the eyelets already there impress upon the eyes of the pupils
the moment the square is hung in the frame, the general direction which the line
of stitches is to take, and how many threads are passed over and how many
picked up.
Sewing buttons on is advantageously taught from the same square as the one
used to teach making button holes.
When the nature of a lesson requires the use of such a material as canvas for
practising on, we prepare a demonstration-square to simulate the texture of canvas
by netting or other method which locks the intersections of the threads. This
square is intended to be used for teaching lessons in marking and may be used for
teaching several other lessons, such as herring-boning, darning and the like.
We wish it to be distinctly understood that we are quite aware of there being
in the market at the present time frames similar in outward appearance to the
one herein before described, and illustrated in the accompanying figures. But the
construction of these frames limits them to the use of one demonstration-square of
a given mesh, which square is directed to be produced by lacing tapes across the
frame and fastening their intersections by sewing. The tapes are fastened to the
frame by being passed through holes made therein, and this construction limits
the size of the mesh of the demonstration-square to the distance (or a mutiple of
it) which separates the holes.

page_text: Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what
we claim is: -
1. The combination of frame with a series of demonstration-squares of various
sizes but all capable of being instantaneously attached one at a time to the said
frame at one or more points or along one or more sides of said demonstration-squares
according to the nature of the lesson to be taught, substantially as hereinbefore
described, reference being had to the accompanying drawings.
2. In the preparation of demonstration-squares to be used in conjunction with
a frame capable of exhibiting the same one by one to a class of pupils, the com-
bination therewith of lines of eyelets inserted in the fabric of the square at points
representing the punctures of the needle in the needle-woman's actual work
substantially as and for the purpose described reference being made to the
accompanying drawings.