IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF DRESS SHIRTS AND DRESSES MADE BY MEANS OF THE STOCKING FRAME
Year: 1865

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Edward Moore, of Tewkesbury, in the County of
Gloucester, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF
DRESS SHIRTS AND DRESSES MADE BY MEANS OF THE STOCKING FRAME."
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Edward Moore at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
28th April 1865.
I, EDWARD MOORE, of Tewkesbury, in the County of Gloucester, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANU-
FACTURE OF DRESS SHIRTS AND DRESSES MADE BY MEANS OF THE STOCKING FRAME,"
to be as follows:--
This Invention relates to certain improvements in the manufacture of dress
shirts and dresses made by means of the stocking frame, and whereby such
articles are rendered more suitable for general use than they have hitherto
been.
Previously to the date of certain Letters Patent which were granted, to
me, bearing date the Thirtieth day of April 1862, and numbered 1264,
dress shirts and dresses were made by cutting out pieces of the material
intended to be used from patterns according to the shape required, the same

page_text: being then sewn together with a needle and thread, the materials thus
employed having always been woven in the ordinary way in looms, that is to
say, with a weft and woof.
The Invention for which the said Letters Patent were granted to me con-
sisted in making dress shirts and dresses entirely with a continuous thread in
the stocking frame by the process known as "framework knitting," so that
they should possess the qualities and advantages of that manufacture, especially
its elasticity in every direction of the fabric, and its consequent durability.
The articles could thus be made in the frame in parts from a cut pattern,
such parts being combined in the frame by means of the process known to
framework knitters as "hanging on" or "pricking on," or the articles could
be made without seam by the process of circular weaving, an important feature
connected with the Invention being that thereby great variety of ornamentation
could be imparted to the articles manufactured.
The present Invention consists in combining with or inserting in shirts and
dresses so made by the process of framework knitting fronts, collars, and
wristbands of linen or cotton woven in the ordinary manner with weft and
woof, the shirts and dresses being manufactured in the frame with selvedge
courses at the required parts, to which the fronts, collars, and wristbands
can be connected or attached in the usual way by needle and thread, or by
the sewing machine, or by any other suitable means. An important advan-
tage arising from this arrangement is that the parts so inserted as before
mentioned can be readily removed when required for the purpose of being
washed and starched, and afterwards replaced.
The articles manufactured in accordance with this Invention thus possess
all tho advantages derived from the process of framework knitting, while those
parts which are exposed to view have an appearance similar to that presented
by the like parts of articles made in the usual manner of the ordinary woven
materials.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed 30
by the said Edward Moore in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
28th October 1865.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, EDWARD
MOORE, of Tewkesbury, in the County of Gloucester, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters 35
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-eighth day of April, in the year of our Lord

page_text: One thousand eight hundred and sixty-five, in the twenty-eighth year
of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant
unto me, the said Edward Moore, Her special licence that I, the said
Edward Moore, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others
ns I, the said Edward Moore, my executors, administrators, and assigns,
should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all
times thereafter during the term thercin expressed, should and lawfully
might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention
for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF DRESS SHIRTS AND DRESSES MADE
BY MEANS OF THE STOCKING FRAME," upon the condition (amongst others)
that I, the said Edward Moore, my executors or administrators, by an
instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals,
should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention,
and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to
be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and
immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Edward Moore,. do hereby declare
the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement, that is to say :-
My said Invention relates to certain improvements in the manufacture of
dress shirts and dresses made by means of the stocking frame, and whereby
such articles are rendered more suitable for general use than they have
hitherto been.
Previously to the date of certain Letters Patent which were granted to me,
bearing date the Thirtieth day of April One thousand eight hundred and sixty-
two, and numbered 1264, dress shirts and dresses were made by cutting out
pieces of the material intended to be used from patterns according to the
shape required, the same being then sewn together with a needle and thread,
the materials thus employed having always been woven in the ordinary way
in looms, that is to say, with a weft and woof.
...
The Invention for which the said Letters Patent were granted to me
consisted in making dress shirts and dresses entirely with a continuous thread
in the stocking frame by the process known as "framework knitting," so
that they should possess the qualities and advantages of that manufacture,
especially its elasticity in every direction of the fabric, and its consequent
durability. The articles could thus be made in the frame in parts from a
cut pattern, such parts being combined in the frame by means of the
process

page_text: "
known to framework knitters as "hanging on or "pricking on;" or the
articles could be made without seam by the process of circular weaving, an
important feature connected with the Invention being that thereby great
variety of ornamentation could be imparted to. the articles manufactured.
The present Invention consists in combining with or inserting in shirts and
dresses so made by the process of framework kuitting fronts,. collars, and
wristbands of linen or cotton woven in the ordinary manner with weft and
woof, the shirts and dresses being mannfactured in the frame with selvedge
courses at the required parts, to which the fronts, collars, and wristbands can
be connected or attached in the usual way by needle and thread, or by the
sewing machine, or by any other suitable means. An important advantage
arising from this arrangement is, that the parts so inserted as before mentioned
can be readily removed when required for the purpose of being washed and
starched, and afterwards replaced.
The articles manufactured in accordance with this Invention thus possess
all the advantages derived from the process of framework knitting, while those
parts which are exposed to view have an appearance similar to that presented
by the like parts of articles made in the usual manner of the ordinary woven
materials.
Having thus described and ascertained the nature of my said Invention,
and the manner in which it is to be performed, I would observe in conclusion
that what I consider novel and original, and therefore claim as constituting
my said Invention is, the manufacture of dress shirts and dresses made by
means of the stocking frame in the manner and for the purposes herein-before
substantially described and set forth.
In witness whereof, I, the said Edward Moore, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Twenty-seventh day of October, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-five.
Witness,
J. WIGGINTON.
EDWARD MOORE. (L.S.)