Improvements in and relating to Sewing Machines.
Year: 1886

page_text: Date of Application, 13th July, 1886
Complete Left, 4th Apr., 1887.
Complete Accepted, 13th May, 1887.
[Communicated from abroad by AARON MOREHOUSE, of Danbury, Connecticut,
United States of America, Mechanic.]
Improvements in and relating to Sewing Machines.
I, HENRY HARRIS LAKE, of the firm of Haseltine, Lake & Co., Patent Agents,
Southampton Buildings, in the County of Middlesex, do hereby declare the nature of
this invention to be as follows :-
My invention relates to improvements in that class of sewing machines which use
two needle threads.
In such machines, as at present constructed, the needles are usually set diagonally,
or the material to be sewed is fed at an angle oblique or perpendicular to the line of
motion of the shuttle, or other device for locking the stitch by means of a third
thread.
The said invention consists partly in forming the stitch by means of thread from
two needles only, in a sewing machine in which the needle bar, presser-foot, and feed
mechanism are similar to those which are already in common use and moved by
similar driving mechanism; but I preferably make use of two needles of unequal
length, set so that the plane passing through both their axes will be at right angles
with the line of stitch, each needle having its independent thread and the necessary
tension devices. To interlock the threads beneath the cloth or material being sewed,
I employ a looping hook of peculiar construction vibrating about a horizontal axis, in
a vertical plane cutting the line of the stitch at right angles or nearly so.
The looping
hook above referred to acts to interloop, below the cloth, the loops produced by one
needle into a concatenated chain, while at the same time it interloops therewith the
loops produced by the other needle.'

page_text: My invention further partly consists in the peculiar construction of the stitch itself,
the result aimed at being to produce a seam showing upon one side of the fabric or
material as a row of loops in substantially the same line, but meeting a row of other
loops parallel to each other, at an angle; and upon the other side of the fabric or
material as two parallel rows of stitches closely drawn into the fabric and in every
way resembling two lines of ordinary sewing machine stitching. The advantages of
this method of sewing, or stitch, are that but two threads are used and these both
needle threads, the resulting seam being very elastic as well as ornamental.
My invention further partly consists in the application of the improved stitch
produced by the above described sewing machine to the manufacture of hat sweats, or
sweat bands for hats and caps, to which purpose it is especially applicable, as the
great elasticity of the seam produced permits of the flanging or shaping of said sweat
bands by machinery at a single operation and without the risk of breaking stitches
incident to ordinary seams.
My invention further partly consists in certain peculiar forms and combinations of
gauge plates adapted to guiding the various parts of which a sweat band is composed
and keeping these parts together while being sewed. This part of my invention is
also adapted to cording etc.: To this end my system or combination of gauges consists
of a number of pieces, which may be secured to the plate of the sewing machine.
upon
My system of gauges, in its best form, includes the following parts, viz. :-An outer
edge guide to keep the leather up to the needles, an inner edge guide for the leather
at the edge to be sewn, an auxiliary gauge, to keep the covered reed down the
leather just as they approach the needles; a reed and reed-cover carrier to ensure the
uniform and smooth feeding of these two materials, and finally the folding guide which
controls the reed and bends the cover around it.
According to the said invention the improved machine comprises two important
parts, viz. the needles, which are of unequal length and placed at right angles to the
line of feed; and the hook, which may be briefly described as follows.
The said looping hook consists of a body or thick part somewhat triangular in shape
and provided with a hole for the shaft upon which it is secured and by which it is
vibrated, this part being the support of the acting part of the hook. To this body a
thin curved and pointed blade is secured at the point of the body furthest from its
centre of vibration. The face of the blade or hook proper is perpendicular to the line
of seam, and its outer edge is preferably a portion of a circle struck from the centre
of vibration of the body as a centre. The curvature of the inner edge of the blade is
such as to give it a good base at its point of attachment to the body or thick portion.
This width of base also assists the loop opener or spreader in spreading the loops.
The loop-opener is a thin piece of metal of a somewhat triangular form continuous
with the blade and forming a groove which is in line with a small notch in the end of
the body. This piece runs but a small portion of the length of the blade and tapers
to a point, and the two meet at one point and are then separated by a groove.
The function of this loop-opener is to spread the loops, and at the same time permit
one of the needles to pass in the grooves between it and the hook, for a short distance
in certain positions of the looping hook, so that the needles may enter loops seized and
held by the blade.
The gauge for the outer edge of the leather consists of a thin plate of metal bent
upon itself so as to form a sort of trough or gutter through which the leather can
easily pass, the edge of the leather resting against the bottom of the gutter. This
gauge is secured by means of a rod, spring, and bracket to the cloth plate of the
machine or in any suitable manner, and is best secured to the plate adjustably so as to
adapt it to varying widths of material. A vertical surface attached to the cloth plate
may be used in place of the trough.
The reed and cover carrier has a short tube to support the reed, and a curved
opening between two thin metal plates to support the reed-cover and cause it to be
delivered to the folding gauge, which also has a tube for the reed and is so formed or
bent in a well known way as to fold the cover over the reed. The reed, as it energes

page_text: from this gauge, is enclosed in its cover and the two are then more firmly pressed
together by a bent plate. Beneath the folding gauge or guide there is a thin piece of
metal bent upon itself and flattened together so as to form a gutter leaving just space
enough for the leather alone to pass, and the bottom of this gutter is the inner edge
guide for the leather. Behind this gauge or guide a gauge is placed having a concave
groove on its upper edge in which the covered reed can run just as it leaves the
folding gauge or guide, and thus be kept accurately in place; this gauge can be
adjusted for different sizes of reeds, etc.
Dated this 12th day of Tul., 100K
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
45, Southampton Buildings, London,
Agents for the Applicant.

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in and relating to Sewing Machines.
I, HENRY HARRIS LAKE, of the firm of Haseltine, Lake & Co., Patent Agents,
Southampton Buildings, in the County of Middlesex, do hereby declare the nature of
this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
My invention relates to improvements in that class of sewing machines which use
two needle threads, and sew a double seam.
In such machines as at present constructed, the needles are usually set diagonally
or the material to be sewed is fed at an angle either oblique or perpendicular to the
line of motion of the shuttle, or other device for locking the stitch, and all the
machines with which I am acquainted lock the stitch by means of a third thread.
I form my stitch by means of needle threads alone of which I use two in a sewing
machine in which the needle bar, presser-foot, and feed mechanism are similar to
those which are already in common use and moved by similar driving mechanism,
but although the relative length of the needles is not of the essence of my invention,
I preferably make use of two needles of unequal length set so that the plane passing
through both their axes will be at right angles with the line of stitch, each needle
having its own independent thread and the necessary tension devices to interlock the
threads beneath the cloth or material being sewed.
To lock the stitches I employ a looping hook of peculiar construction vibrating
about a horizontal axis in a vertical plane cutting the line of the stitch at right angles
or nearly so. The looping hook above referred to acts to interloop below the cloth,
the loops produced by one needle into a concatenated chain, while at the same time it
interloops therewith the loops produced by the other needle.
My invention further consists in the peculiar construction of the stitch itself, the
result aimed at being to produce a seam showing upon one side of the fabric or
material as a row of loops in substantially the same line, but meeting a row of other
loops which are parallel to each other, at an oblique angle; and upon the other side
of the fabric or material, as two parallel rows of stitches closely drawn into the fabric
and in every way resembling two lines of ordinary sewing machine stitching.
The advantages of this method of sewing, or stitch, are a saving in thread, and a
resulting seam which is very elastic as well as ornamental.
My invention further consists in the application of this improved stitch produced
by the above described sewing machine to the manufacture of hat sweats or sweat
bands for hats and caps, to which purpose it is especially applicable as the great
elasticity of the seam produced permits of the flanging or shaping of said sweat bands

page_text: by machinery at a single operation and without the risk of breaking stitches incident
to ordinary seams.
My invention still further consists in certain peculiar forms and combinations of
gauge plates adapted to the purpose of guiding the various parts of which a sweat
band is composed and keeping those parts together while being sewed. This part of
my invention is also adapted to cording, etc. To this end my system or combination
of gauges consists of a number of pieces, each of an improved construction, which may
be secured to the plate of the sewing machine.
My system of gauges in its best form includes the following parts, viz.: An outer
edge guide to keep the leather up to the needles; an inner edge guide for the leather
at the edge to be sewn; an auxiliary gauge, to keep the covered reed down upon the
leather just as they approach the needles; a reed and reed-cover carrier to ensure the
uniform and smooth feeding of these two materials, and finally the folding guide which
controls the reed and bends the cover around it.
The first part of my invention consists essentially of two important parts: The
needles, which are of unequal length, and placed at right angles to the line of feed ;
and the hook which may be briefly described as follows:
The looping hook consists of a body or thick portion, somewhat triangular in shape
and provided with a hole for the shaft upon which it is secured and by which it is
vibrated, this part being the support of the acting part of the hook. To this body a
thin curved and pointed blade is secured at the point of the body furthest from its
centre of vibration. The face of the blade or hook proper is perpendicular to the line
of seam, and its outer edge preferably a portion of a circle struck from the centre
of vibration of the body as a centre. The curvature of the inner edge of the blade is
such as to give it a good base at its point of attachment to the body or thick portion.
This width of base also assists the loop opener or spreader in enlarging the loops.
The loop-opener is a thin piece of metal of a somewhat triangular form continuous
with the blade and forming a groove which is in line with a small notch in the end of
the body. This piece runs but a small portion of the length of the blade and tapers to
a point, and the two meet at one point and are then separate by a groove.
The function of this loop-opener, is to spread the loops and at the same time permit
one of the needles, to pass in the groove between it and the hook, for a short distance
in certain positions of the looping hook, so that the needle may enter loops seized and
held by the blade.
The gauge for the outer edge of the leather consists of a thin plate of metal bent
upon itself so as to form a sort of trough or gutter through which the leather can
easily pass, the edge of the leather resting against the bottom of the gutter. This
gauge is secured by means of a rod, spring, and bracket to the cloth plate of the
machine, or in any proper manner, and is best secured to the plate adjustably so as to
adapt it to varying widths of material. A vertical surface attached to the cloth plate
may be used in place of the trough.
The reed and cover carrier has a short tube to support the reed, and a curved
opening between two thin metal plates, to support the reed-cover and cause it to be
delivered to the folding gauge which also has a tube for the reed and is so formed or
bent in a well known way, as to fold the cover over the reed. The reed as it emerges
from this gauge is enclosed in its cover and the two are then more firmly pressed
together by a bent plate. Beneath the folding gauge or guide there is a thin piece of
metal bent upon itself and flattened together so as to form a gutter leaving just space
enough for the leather alone to pass, and the bottom of this gutter is the inner edge
guide for the leather. Behind this gauge or guide a gauge is placed having a concave
groove on its upper edge in which the covered reed can run just as it leaves the
folding gauge or guide, and thus be kept accurately in place; this gauge can be
adjusted for different sizes of reeds, etc.
In the drawings:
Figure 1, is a side elevation of a sewing machine constructed and arranged to work
in accordance with my invention.

page_text: Figure 2, is a front elevation of the needles.
Figure 3, is a side elevation of the reciprocating hook showing its loop opener and
the groove through which one of the needles passes when the hook is in a certain
position.
Figures 4 and 5, are two different perspective views of the looping hook.
Figure 6, is a plan of that portion of the machine beneath the cloth-plate, showing
the feed-surface the looping hook, and mechanism for operating it.
Figure 7, is a plan view of the cloth-plate of the machine showing the gauges in
place, and with a partly finished sweat leather in process of being sewed.
Figures 8 to 21 inclusive, are detail views of the various parts composing the system
of gauges.
Figures 22 to 30 both inclusive, are diagrams showing the relative positions of the
needles and the looping hook in various stages of progress in the process of the
formation of a stitch.
Figure 31, is a plan view of the upper surface of a piece of material stitched by my
machine and in accordance with my improved method of forming the stitches or
seam.
Figure 32, is a plan view of the under surface of the same seam showing the
peculiarities of the stitch.
Figure 33, is a face view of a hat sweat stitched by this machine.
Figure 34, is a view of the wrong or underside of the same hat sweat.
Figure 35, is a cross section of the same, showing the superposition of the parts of
which it is composed.
I will now describe the machine in detail, beginning with the sewing mechanism
first, then adding the description of the various gauges, and the method of operation
of sewing on the machine, first, plain material not requiring the use of the gauges,
and next the sewing of hat sweats in which all or part of the gauges are brought
into use.
A, is the base of the machine; A¹, is the stationary arm or bracket; B, the cloth-
plate; b, throat for the needles to pass through; C, the needle arm; D, the presser-
foot; d, the foot-bar; E, the driving shaft; F, the needle-bar; f, short needle ;
f, long needle; H, hook having a curved end, h, and a loop-opener, h¹. This hook
is secured to a small horizontal shaft, I, by a set-screw, h², or by other suitable
means.
The shaft, I, is mounted at its ends upon conical bearing screws, i, i, and passes
freely through the sleeve, L, which has a slot reaching through to its bore, the said
slot being for some distance parallel with the axis of the cylinder and then taking a
spiral form. This sleeve is secured to a rectangular block, 7, which is free to slide in
the direction of the axis of the shaft, I, upon a flat guide-plate, 12, which prevents the
said cam cylinder from turning. A connecting rod, J, is pivoted to this block, L, at
one end and at the other to a screw forming a crank pin on the disc, e, which is
secured on the end of the driving shaft, E, the whole construction being such that the
rotation of the shaft, E, causes the sleeve to reciprocate, and this reciprocation of the
sleeve causes the hook to reciprocate because its cam groove encloses a pin, 13, attached
to and projecting from the shaft I. The hook, H, has a period of rest corresponding
to the time that the pin rides in the straight portion of the cam groove.
I have thus described my mode of giving motion to the reciprocating hook, but it
may be moved by means of other trains of mechanism causing it to move in
substantially the same manner.
K, is the feed bar having the feed surface, k; k², the lever for regulating the length
of stitch.
The looping hook may be more particularly described as consisting of a body or
thick part, H, somewhat triangular in shape, and provided with a hole for the shaft, I;
this part being the support of the acting part of the hook. To this body, a thin
curved and pointed blade, h, is secured at the point of the body farthest from its centre
of vibration.

page_text: The face of the blade or hook proper, h, is perpendicular to the line of seam, and its
outer edge is preferably a portion of a circle struck from the centre of vibration of H,
as a centre. The curvature of the inner edge of the blade, h, is such as to give it a
good base at its point of attachment to the body or thick portion, H.
The loop opener, h¹, is a thin piece of metal of a somewhat triangular form,
continuous with the blade and forming a groove which is in line with a small notch in
the end of the body, H. The piece, h³, runs but a small portion of the length of h,
and tapers to a point, meeting h, and united to it at the bottom, but leaving a groove
or trough between.
The function of this loop opener, ', is to spread the loops and at the same time
permit one of the needles, f, to pass in the groove between it and the hook, h, for a
short distance in certain positions of the looping hook, so that the needle may enter
loops seized and held by the blade.
Referring now to Figures 31, 32, 33, 34 and 35, of the drawings:
t, is the reed; 2, the reed cover; T, the leather or other material of which the body
of the sweat band is made; U and W, indicate the two lines of stitches as they
appear upon the upper surface of the fabric while being stitched; V, V, are the needle
holes. The stitches are represented as being made with different sizes of thread for
the purpose of greater clearness, but in actual practice they may be either of the same
or different sizes of thread. The stitch made up of the smaller thread, marked U, is
made by the short or outside needle, the stitch of larger thread, marked W, is made
by the longer or inside needle. w, and u, indicate the appearance of these stitches
upon the under side of the fabric.
When used for a hat sweat, the loop side of the stitches is upon the right side of
the sweat, or in other words, the sweat is stitched wrong side up.
The stitches are shown on a much exaggerated scale in the drawings, and the loops
are shown appearing as loops, whereas when used upon the sweat leather, the threads
of the loop lie so close together that they are indistinguishable from one thread.
The chain stitch, which does not penetrate the leather, but only the reed cover, lies
so close to the edge of the leather that its looped appearance is also entirely lost and
it appears as a heavy but single thread of silk.
The operation of the machine, referring at first to the stitching mechanism only, is
as follows:
The material to be stitched is introduced in the usual way beneath the presser foot
and is fed forward by the feed mechanism in the usual way, the needles descend and
pass through the fabric, the reciprocating hook at the same time retreats until the
needles have reached the lowest point of their stroke; the needles then begin to ascend
and form loops, the hook advances in the direction indicated by the arrow in Figure 23
and enters both loops, and spreads them.
The hook continues to advance until the pin upon the hook shaft, I, enters the
straight part of the cam groove on sleeve, L, then the hook remains at rest until the
pin has traversed this portion of the cam groove in both directions, the needles in
the meantime, rise to their hightest position and again descend until they almost reach
the top of the hook; the pin, 13, then enters the spiral part of the cam groove and
forces the shaft, I, and the hook, H, attached thereto, to oscillate in a reverse direction;
just before the hook commences to move backward, the short needle with its loop enters
the two loops spread and held by the looping hook, the needle passing into the groove
and carrying its own loop of thread through the two loops held by the hook and
spreader; the hook then takes the position shown in Figure 27, both loops surrounding
the shorter needle, f. The needles begin to ascend and the hook begins to turn toward
them, entering the new loops on the needles before the said needles have risen above
the hook. The hook retreats holding these new loops until they are entered by the
short needle, and then permits them to slip off, the short needle and its thread being
then surrounded by these new loops.
This operation is repeated at each stitch and the result is two series of parallel
stitches upon the upper side of the material, and on the underside, a straight chain

page_text: having interlooped therewith a series of diagonal loops. These are shown in Figures
31 and 32.
To explain more in detail the formation of the stitch, I will describe the diagrams
22 to 30 inclusive.
In Figure 22, the threaded needles are shown above the cloth plate ready to
penetrate the fabric for the first stitch; the hook is at rest at its farthest backward
point.
In the position shown in Figure 23, the needles have penetrated the fabric and
descended to their lowest position and are starting up, forming first loops, which are
being entered and spread by the looping hook moving forward.
In Figure 24, the needles having reached their highest point, have turned to descend
and are again ready to penetrate the fabric, the feed has carried the fabric forward the
length of one stitch, and the looping hook holding both loops below the cloth, is at its
period of rest preparatory to its return stroke.
In Figure 25, the needles are shown moving downward, the short one just entering
both loops held by the hook and opened for the needle by the loop-opener or
spreader ; the hook has started on its backward trip.
In Figure 26, the short needle is shown as having passed with its thread completely
through both loops, and the hook retreating still farther, is about to leave both loops
on the short needle, f.
In Figure 27, the needles are shown as having again reached their lowest point and
starting upward with both loops slipped from the hook, and drawn up around the
short needle, with the hook again on its forward stroke, and new loops forming on the
The loop on
needles ready for the hook to enter as is shown in the next Figure, 28.
the short needle, f, forming below the two loops which are nearly around the said
needle, and drawn up against the lower side of the cloth.
In Figure 28, the needles have ascended a little higher forming second loops,
which the hook is about entering in a similar position to that which is shown in
Figure 23.
In Figure 29, the hook is still moving forward retaining the second loops, the
needles are still rising, the short needle just leaving the first loops on the under side of
the fabric where they are held in place by the second loop from the short needle, f,
which passes through both of them.
In Figure 30, the needles are shown as having risen to their highest point and again
descended to their lowest passing through both of the second loops as the hook leaves
them similar to Figure 26, the fabric has in the meantime under the influence of the
feed moved forward the space necessary for another stitch.
The operation continues as above described completing the seam.
Having described the various parts and the operation of the sewing mechanism
proper, I will now describe the various gauges, beginning with a brief description of
the Figures in detail :
Figure 8, is a top or plan view of the outer edge guide, and Figure 9, a side view of
a portion of the same.
Figure 10, is a cross section on the line v, v, of Figure 8.
Figure 11, is a plan view of the inner edge guide; Figure 12, is a cross section on
the line x, x¹, of Figure 11.
Figures 13, 14 and 15, are respectively perspective, front or entering, rear or exit,
side views of the folding gauge proper.
Figure 16, is a plan view of the gauge R, and Figure 17, is a cross section on the
line 2, 2, of Figure 16.
Figures 18 and 19, are respectively perspective and end views of the reed and reed
cover carrier.
Figure 20, is a perspective view of the auxiliary guide or gauge, and Figure 21, is
a side view of the same.
M, is the guide for the outer edge of the leather consisting of a plate of sheet metal
bent upon itself as shown in the section Figure 10. A rod, m, is soldered or otherwise

page_text: secured to the upper portion M¹, of this plate and passes through holes in a small
frame m², which is secured beneath the cloth plate, and may be held in any required
position by a sliding block, m³ and set screws, m³, which are acted upon by a spiral
spring, ms, which forces the gauge toward the needles.
the
N, is a small plate screwed to the cloth plate, one edge being close to the prosser-
foot, a slight bevel, n, being made where the presser foot overlaps it; its end is placed
close to the stitching line, and a groove is made upon its upper edge, this groove which
is shown at n², Figures 11 and 12, is best made in the form of a portion of a cone,
point being farthest away from the needles. Its object is to support and guide the
covered reed and thus keep it in the exact position to be stitched to the sweat leather
in its proper space.
O, is the folding guide or gauge proper, in which the reed cover is doubled together
and folded over to enclose the reed. Referring now to Figures 13, 14 and 15, O, is
the support of this gauge which is screwed to the cloth plate, o², a thicker portion
carrying the upper lip o³, slopes downward on the underside of its outgoing end as
indicated at o. The under lip o, is bent over on itself and to the upper portion is
attached by one edge the tubular reed guide o", the other portion is secured to the
thick part o², of the plate O. The reed guide, o, is a tube just large enough for the
reed to pass freely through and placed far enough from the inside of the gauge to
permit the reed cover to be folded over the tube.
P, Figures 18 and 19, is the reed and reed cover carrier; it acts to support these
parts in proper position to enter the folding guide, O. This carrier P, consists of a
base, p, sloping upward at p¹, the curved flattened tube, p³, for the reed cover, and the
small tube, p, for the reed. The flattened tube is large enough in its interior to permit
the ready insertion of the reed cover.
R, Figures 16 and 17, is the inner edge guide for keeping the edge of the leather
to be stitched, in place, and in correct alignment. It consists of a thin plate folded
over so as to form a gutter and the upper part, r, pressed down upon the lower so as
to leave just space enough for the thickness of the leather; the fold is cut through for
the greater portion of its length to give more elasticity, and I prefer to make the plate
of spring metal. The slight upright edge, left by the cut, and the bottom of the
gutter, act as the inner edge guide for the leather and this gauge in combination
with N, keeps the leather, and covered reed in proper position both with regard to each
other and to the needles."
S, is an auxiliary gauge for folding the cover more closely upon the reed keeping
the parts well together, and assisting in keeping the edge of the leather in line. It is
shown detached in Figures 20 and 21. This auxiliary gauge is made and attached so
as to exert a spring or yielding pressure on the parts of the sweat.
The part S2, of S, is a means of attachment; it is screwed to O, as shown in
Figure 7. The part S, acts to keep the parts of the sweat together, and the small
triangular vertical portion S³, acts as a support and assists N and R as an inner edge
guide for the leather. The portion S, when in the machine slopes downward toward
the needles.
T, is the leather. The arrows indicate the direction of feed.
The acting parts of all these guides and gauges may be attached to the cloth plate in
any suitable manner.
These gauges may be made left handed so that the outer or unsewed edge of the
leather will be on the left hand outside the needles, if desired.
The operation of the guides or gauges when the machine is used for stitching
together the parts of a hat sweat is as follows:
The leather is introduced under the upper part, r, of the inner gauge, R, and the
outer gauge, M, is set to the width of the feather, the reed is slipped through p³,
and o, and under S, until it abuts against the presser foot. The reed cover is
introduced into the carrier, p³, (for which purpose a slot is left in the upper part), and
spread out the full width; the reed cover is then passed through the folding guide O,
around the reed tube, o, then around the reed and under S, until it reaches and is
caught by the feed.

page_text: The roed and its cover rest in the groove n², in the plate, N, and are thus kept
accurately in line. Different sizes of reed will require a slight adjustment of this
plate which is provided for by making the hole in the plate somewhat larger than the
screw used to secure it to the plate.
The various parts now being in position, the machine is started, and after the
first stitch is taken the several parts are automatically kept in place, and stitched
together.
This system of guides or gauges is intended for use in its entirety to secure all the
parts of a sweat leather together, but the parts are adapted to be used in several sub-
combinations to cover a reed or cord, or to sew an already covered reed or cord to a
leather.
To cover a reed the guides P, O, S, and N, are used. To sew an already covered
reed or cord to a strip of leather or other material, the guides P, and O, can be
dispensed with and the guides or gauges R, S, N and M employed; and these form
perfectly operative combinations capable of properly accomplishing their work.
In the place of reeds, a cord or wire can be inserted in the cover.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said invention,
and in what manner the same is to be performed, as communicated to me by my foreign
correspondent I declare that what I claim is :
1. In a sewing machine, two eye-pointed needles vertically reciprocating, and so
arranged that a plane passing through their axial lines, will cut the line of feed and
line of stitch substantially at right angles, and means for operating the needles in
combination with a vibrating looping hook or blade and loop-opener or spreader
having between it and the blade, a groove or needle channel, with means for operating
the blade and loop-opener for the purposes hereinbefore specified.
2. In a sewing machine, the combination of the looping hook or blade and its
spreader and the slotted sleeve and pin and means for operating the same whereby the
hook and spreader may be vibrated in a vertical plane, in connection with suitable
mechanism for forming the stitch as herein described and shown.
3. I claim the herein described method of forming a seam or concatenating two
threads, in connection with cloth or leather, the which consists essentially of the
following steps:
1st. In passing two loops of thread from the upper to the under side of
the cloth, the line passing through said loops being at right angles to the
completed seam.
2nd. In seizing and holding said loops beneath the cloth, in such position that
when a second set of loops is passed down through the cloth, one of said
second set of loops shall pass through both of the first set of loops which are
held below the cloth.
3rd. In passing a second set of loops through the cloth, one of said second
set being made to pass through both of the first set of loops.
4th. In seizing and holding said second set of loops below the cloth in such
position that one of a third set of loops shall pass through both loops of the
second set, and so on in succession to form a seam of any desired length,
substantially as described.
4. The combination substantially as herein set forth, of an outer edge guide for the
leather, a rigid inner edge guide consisting of a thin metal plate folded upon itself and
having the fold cut through for the greater portion of its length as described, an
auxiliary spring guide to keep the work together and an edge guide for the covered
reed to be secured to the leather, the said last mentioned guide being a groove as
described, all constructed substantially as shown and adapted to secure an already
covered reed to a leather or other material.
5. An improved method of making sweat-bands for hats and caps, consisting
substantially of the following steps: The reed is first covered with a strip of cloth
such as is usually employed for that purpose-and placed upon the wrong side of the
leather, leaving the covered reed projecting over the edge of the leather; the said parts
""

page_text: are then secured together by a double row of elastic or chain machine stitches, the
needle forming one row of loops penetrating the reed-cover only close to the edge of
the leather, the needle forming the second row of loops penetrating both leather and
reed-cover near the edge of the leather, the row of loops which penetrate both leather
and reed-cover being drawn out in a diagonal direction and inter-looped with the
loops, produced by the first-mentioned needle, which loops are also interlooped with
each other to form a chain, the said interlooping being effected by any suitable
mechanism, and the whole stitch being produced by but two threads, both of the said
threads being needle-threads, all substantially as described, and for the purpose
set forth.