IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF SHAWLS AND OTHER LIKE FABRICS
Year: 1868

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Clinton Edgcumbe Brooman, of the Firm of
Robertson, Brooman, and Company, of 166, Fleet Street, in the
City of London, Patent Agents, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS
IN THE MANUFACTURE OF SHAWLS AND OTHER LIKE FABRICS."-A com-
munication from abroad by Anthelme Pin, of Lyons, France.
Sealed the 8th December 1868, and dated the 29th June 1868.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Clinton Edgcumbe
Brooman at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his
Petition, on the 29th June 1868.
I, CLINTON EDGCUMBE BROOMAN, of the Firm of Robertson,
Brooman, and Company, of 166, Fleet Street, in the City of London,
Patent Agents, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF SHAWLS AND OTHER LIKE FABRICS,"
to be as follows:-
This Invention chiefly consists in a particular. manufacture of shawls
in imitation of embroidered or figured Indian shawls. Indian shawls
are much superior to ordinary. French shawls from the brightness of
their colors; the mode of manufacturing them obviates the tying or

page_text: connecting, which is the chief cause of the alteration of the colors,
and dispenses with the cutting of the wefts on the wrong or reverse
side. In the ordinary French manufacture this tying or connecting is
indispensable, because the wefts become unhooked or unfastened if there
is not a body of stuff without solution of continuity; but this tying or
connecting naturally injures the tone of the colors. At different times
it has been attempted to dispense with the connecting or tying by
making all the wefts connect on the reverse side, but this mode is
defective because it makes the shawl very heavy; but by the present
Invention shawls can be made of the ordinary weight. For this
purpose
I employ only one warp for the fringes, for the ground, and to connect
the wefts on the right side and on the reverse side; then I use another
and thicker warp which forms the design only, and is never employed in
the body of the fabric. It is this color warp working in a reverse manner
to that of the wefts which is the chief feature of the new shawl, and
which gives it the appearance of a figured Indian shawl; besides, the
present mode dispenses with a color of the figure. For this new manu-
facture I employ the mounting of the machine called thread mounting,
that is to say, that the cording or tying up is made continuous, or with
points, or with ways (suivi, ou à pointe, ou à chemin) according to the
articles; in each loop I place a piece thread and a design thread; the
piece threads are passed over lifting healds and under lowering healds,
while the design warp is quite free. When the attendant makes the
first throw of the shuttle across the shed the two warps rise in the parts
where the weft should appear on the right side; a lowering heald then
falls for the connecting of the right side, while a lifting heald rises for
the connecting of the reverse side following a certain tweel or pattern
(armure); then the card changes and a fresh part of the warp rises for
another color; the same healds rise and fall for all the scries of colors
which compose the design in this movement of the shuttle. For the
following movements the same action takes place, except that the healds
are changed. It is thus as far as the ground, which may be made in
several ways, first, with healds formed (brisées) so as to place the
ground weft independent of the figure; secondly, by using one of the
colors of the figure which is finer at this part, and by several throws,
which I make for economy firstly, and to avoid an additional weft at
this part increasing the thickness of the fabric.
In order to have a purer ground I could connect the weft at the
reverse side at this part by the design warp, and employ the connecting

page_text: warp for the ground; but this mode would produce a double stuff fabric,
which is a defect in the manufacture.
Different tweels or armures may be employed to make the fabric;
satin tweel is that which covers best the connecting points; in rich
articles, however, I employ serge or fancy tweel, which is already done,
because in the middle of the shawl the color which forms the ground is
serged in all the width of the stuff. The essential point is to employ
very flocculent matters, which while being fine and light cover much.
The new shawl or fabric made according to this Invention is without
a connection and without a cutting of the wefts on the reverse side; it
has only one warp for the fringes, for the ground, and for connecting the
wefts on the right side and on the reverse side, and a color warp serving
only for the design, never for the body of the fabric, and working in a
reverse manner to that of the wefts.
The Invention applies to the manufacture of long and square shawls,
reversible or striped, of all sizes and qualities, to scarves, borders,
cravats, and other like fabrics.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Clinton Edgcumbe Brooman in the Great Seal
Patent Office on the 29th December 1868.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, CLINTON
EDGCUMBE BROOMAN, of the Firm of Robertson, Brooman, and Com-
pany, of 166, Fleet Street, in the City of London, Patent Agents, send
greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Twenty-ninth day of June, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-eight, in the thirty-
second year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors,
give and grant unto me, the said Clinton Edgcumbe Brooman, Her
special licence that I, the said Clinton Edgcumbe Brooman, my
executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said
Clinton Edgcumbe Brooman, my executors, administrators, and assigns,
should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and
at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and
lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United

page_text: Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle
of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF SHAWLS
AND OTHER LIKE FABRICS," (communicated to me from abroad by Anthelme
Pin, of Lyons, France,) upon the condition (amongst others) that I,
the said Clinton Edgcumbe Brooman, my executors or administrators,
by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands
and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the
said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed,
and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within
six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said
Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Clinton Edgcumbe Brooman, do
hereby declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascer-
tained in and by the following statement thereof, reference being had
to the Drawings hereunto annexed, that is to say :-
This Invention chiefly consists in a particular manufacture of shawls
in imitation of embroidered or figured Indian shawls. Indian shawls
are much superior to ordinary French shawls from the brightness of
their colors; the mode of manufacturing them obviates the tying or
connecting, which is the chief cause of the alteration of the colors, and
dispenses with the cutting of the wefts on the wrong or reverse side.
In the ordinary French manufacture this tying or connecting is indis-
pensable, because the wefts become unhooked or unfastened if there
is not a body of stuff without solution of continuity; but this tying
or connecting naturally injures the tone of the colors. At different
times it has been attempted to dispense with the connecting or tying by
making all the wefts connect on the reverse side, but this mode is
defective because it makes the shawl very heavy; but by the present
Invention shawls can be made of the weight of ordinary French shawls
and lighter than Indian shawls. For this purpose I employ only one
warp for the fringes, for the ground, and to connect the wefts on the
right side and on the reverse side; then I use another and thicker warp
which forms the design only, and is never employed in the body of the
fabric. It is this color warp working in a reverse manner to that of
the wefts which is the chief feature of the new shawl, and which gives it
the appearance of a figured Indian shawl; besides, the present mode
dispenses with a color of the figure. For this new manufacture I employ

page_text: the mounting of the machine called thread mounting, that is to say,
that the cording or tying up is made continuous, or with points, or with
ways (suivi, ou à pointe, ou à chemin) according to the articles; in each
loop I place a piece thread and a design thread; the piece threads are
passed over lifting healds and under lowering healds, while the design
warp is quite free. When the attendant makes the first throw of the
shuttle across the shed the two warps rise in the parts where the weft.
should appear on the right side; a lowering heald then falls for the
connecting of the right side, while a lifting heald rises for the connecting
of the reverse side following a certain tweel or pattern (armure); then
the card changes and a fresh part of the warp rises for another color;
the same healds rise and fall for all the series of colors which compose
the design in this movement of the shuttle.
The annexed diagram will explain the mounting of the machine for
the manufacture of these shawls.
a, a, represent the hooks of the jacquard mechanism. At 6 is the
cording or tying up. The loops creceive a piece thread d and a
design thread e. At are the lifting healds, and at the lowering
healds. The yellow portion marked h simulates the warp effect, forming
a rise or raised portion to the detail part, that is to say, that in the parts
drawn in yellow on the diagram the yellow warp instead of connecting
the weft on the reverse side remains floating on the surface, and
contributes only to the design by its color. The employment in the
manufacture of the shawls of such an exclusively floating warp for the
design without making it participate in the connecting is the essential
feature of this Invention. Thus this yellow warp does not serve for
connecting; it does not interlace to form the tweel or pattern; it is only
intended to become mixed with the threads of the weft on the surface
in order to form the design to which it contributes by its color. The
yellow color is chosen because in the parts where this yellow warp
does not appear it becomes easily concealed under the weft without
injuring the effect of the shawl. It results therefore that this warp not
mixed in the body or ground of the shawl does not encumber the weight
of the shawl since it remains floating, and yet it harmonizes the general
design. It is this which permits of manufacturing shawls imitating
Indian shawls as completely as possible. For the following movements
of the shuttle the same action as before takes place except that the healds
are changed. It is thus as far as the ground, which may be made in

page_text: several ways, first, with healds formed (brisées) so as to place the ground
weft independent of the figure; secondly, by using one of the colors of
the figure which is finer at this part, and by several throws, which I
make for economy firstly, and to avoid an additional weft at this part
increasing the thickness of the fabric.
In order to have a purer ground I could connect the weft at the
reverse side at this part by the design warp, and employ the connecting
warp for the ground; but this mode would produce a double stuff fabric,
which is a defect in the manufacture.
Different tweels or armures may be employed to make the fabric;
satin tweel is that which covers best the connecting points; in rich
articles, however, I employ serge or fancy tweel, which is already done,
because in the middle of the shawl the color which forms the ground is
serged in all the width of the stuff. The essential point is to employ
very flocculent matters, which while being fine and light cover much.
The new shawl or fabric made according to this Invention is without
a connection and without a cutting of the wefts on the reverse side; it
has only one warp for the fringes, for the ground, and for connecting the
wefts on the right side and on the reverse side, and a color warp serving
only for the design never for the body of the fabric, and working in a
reverse manner to that of the wefts.
The Invention applies to the manufacture of long and square shawls,
reversible or striped, of all sizes and qualities, to scarves, borders, cravats,
and other like fabrics.
And having now described the nature of the said Invention, and in
what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that I claim, the
manufacture of shawls and other like fabrics in the manner herein-before
described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Clinton Edgcumbe Brooman, have
hereunto set my hand and seal, this Twenty-ninth day of
December, One thousand eight hundred and sixty-eight.
C. E. BROOMAN. (L.S.)