Im- PROVEMENTS IN CIRCULAR FRAMES FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF LOOPED FABRICS
Year: 1866

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Richard Archibald
of 166, Fleet Street,
deceased
in the City of London, Patent Agent, for the Invention of "Im-
PROVEMENTS IN CIRCULAR FRAMES FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF LOOPED
FABRICS." A communication from abroad by Emile Lecour, of Passy,
France.
-
Sealed the 13th July 1866, and dated the 15th January 1866.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Richard Archibald Brooman
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
15th January 1866.
I, RICHARD ARCHIBALD BROOMAN, of 166, Fleet Street, in the City of
London, Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention
for "IMPROVEMENTS IN CIRCULAR FRAMES FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF LOOPED.
FABRICS," to be as follows:-
The chief object of this Invention is to manufacture mechanically stockings
and other hosiery with. a diminution and proportion possessing perfect re.
gularity of the loops in all parts... The point which mainly distinguishes the
A

page_text: circular frame which forms the subject of the present Invention from other
frames is a novel action of the needles and sinkers.
To carry out this Invention it is necessary to construct with each of these
two series of parts, the needles and the sinkers which are coupled to form the
Joops, a combination of pieces, such that their number can be diminished as
required in proportion to the diminution to be produced in the stocking or
other article, and that their movement leaving their respective intervals
constant will preserve the regularity of the loops or fabric.
This combination is subordinate to the solution of the following double
problem-1st, given a surface in the form of a circular crown composed of
equal independent and equidistant parts, to diminish the perimeter of this
crown by the removal of a certain number of its parts, so that the thickness
of the crown and its form shall not vary, and that the remaining parts shall
remain at the same respective distances. 2nd, to impart to the needles which
compose this crown as well as to the other parts of the frame a movement
which displaces them all simultaneously and conjointly according to the
conditions required.
Now in the circular frame which forms the subject of the present Inven-
tion, the first part of this problem is solved by a rationally arranged
örganization of the needles and of their supports, and the second part by a
conical piece, which by sliding in grooves formed in each of the moving parts
of the frame causes them to converge and diverge according to whether the
conical piece is raised or lowered.
The Invention will be fully understood on reference to the annexed
Drawings, and by the following description thereof.
Figure 1 is an elevation of the circular frame seen from the side of the
movable needles which produce the diminutions in the stocking; Figure 2
is a back view; Figure 3 is a sectional elevation; Figure 3b represents the
frame at work with the stocking and its diminutions; Figure 4 is an elevation
of the sewing apparatus; Figure 5 is a front view of the upper part and
Figure 6, a front view of the lower part of the sewing apparatus; Figures 7
to 63 are detailed views of the parts composing the frame. Rotary motion
is imparted by a toothed wheel A, Figure 1, fitted with a crank handle.
This wheel gears into another wheel B (Figures 1, 2, 3, and 60) mounted
on a movable collar on the central shaft C (Figure 63) of the frame. The
shaft C is thinued in a conical form from the wheel B to the bottom, where it
terminates in a point, serving as a pivot to the rod as of the sewing apparatus
(see Figure 4). The frame may be supported by cast-iron framework, as
seen in Figure 3bis, or it may be suspended from a transverse wooden joint, as

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Richard Archibald Brooman, of 166, Fleet Street,
in the City of London, Patent Agent, for the Invention of "IM-
PROVEMENTS IN CIRCULAR FRAMES FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF LOOPED
FABRICS." A communication from abroad by Emile Lecoeur, of Passy,
France.
Sealed tho 13th July 1866, and dated the 15th January 1866.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Richard Archibald Brooman
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
15th January 1866.
I, RICHARD ARCHIBALD BROOMAN, of 166, Fleet Street, in the City of
London, Patent Agent, do bereby. declare the nature of the said Invention
for "IMPROVEMENTS IN CIRCULAR FRAMES FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF LOOPED
FABRICS," to be as follows:-
The chief object of this Invention is to manufacture mechanically stockings
and other hosiery with a diminution and proportion possessing perfect re-
gularity of the loops in all parts. The point which mainly distinguishes the
A

page_text: circular frame which forms the subject of the present Invention from other
frames is a novel action of the needles and sinkers.
To carry out this Invention it is necessary to construct with each of these
two series of parts, the needles and the sinkers which are coupled to form the
loops, a combination of pieces, such that their number can be diminished as
required in proportion to the diminution to be produced in the stocking or
other article, and that their movement leaving their respective intervals
constant will preserve the regularity of the loops or fabric.
This combination is subordinate to the solution of the following double
problem-1st, given a surface in the form of a circular crown composed of
equal independent and equidistant parts, to diminish the perimeter of this
crown by the removal of a certain number of its parts, so that the thickness
of the crown and its form shall not vary, and that the remaining parts shall
remain at the same respective distances. 2nd, to impart to the needles which
compose this crown as well as to the other parts of the frame a movement
which displaces them all simultaneously and conjointly according to the
conditions required.
Now in the circular frame which forms the subject of the present Inven-
tion, the first part of this problem is solved by a rationally arranged
organization of the needles and of their supports, and the second part by a
Conical piece, which by sliding in grooves formed in each of the moving parts
of the frame causes them to converge and diverge according to whether the
conical piece is raised or lowered.
The Invention will be fully understood on reference to the annexed
Drawings, and by the following description thereof.
Figure 1 is an elevation of the circular frame seen from the side of the
movable needles which produce the diminutions in the stocking; Figure 2
is a back view; Figure 3 is a sectional elevation; Figure 3b represents the
frame at work with the stocking and its diminutions; Figure 4 is an elevation
of the sewing apparatus; Figure 5 is a front view of the upper part and
Figure 6, a front view of the lower part of the sewing apparatus; Figures 7
to 63 are detailed views of the parts composing the frame. Rotary motion
is imparted by a toothed wheel A, Figure. 1, fitted with a crank handle.
This wheel gears into another wheel B (Figures 1, 2, 3, and 60) mounted
on a movable collar on the central shaft C (Figure 63) of the frame. The
shaft C is thinned in a conical form from the wheel B to the bottom, where it
terminates in a point, serving as a pivot to the rod a³ of the sewing apparatus
(see Figure 4). The frame may be supported by cast-iron framework, as
seen in Figure 3bis, or it may be suspended from a transverse wooden joint, as

page_text: seen in Figures 1, 2, and 3. The same framework may be arranged to
receive several circular frames. Two series of distinct pieces compose this
circular frame; first, the pieces receiving rotary motion, and maintained
together by screws or otherwise; this motion is communicated to them by
the wheel B; second, the piéces independent of the rotary motion being only
caused to recede from and advance towards the centre by the action of a
wheel D with four handles E. (Figures 1, 2, 3, 42, and 43). When it is
required to produce this radial movement the pieces which have a rotary
motion become fixed by their being connected with the other fixed pieces by
means of books or otherwise (these pieces are connected to each other by
hooks when it is required to alter the frame from a smaller to a larger
diameter). Thus the different diminutions to be effected in the stocking or
ether article are obtained by the combination either for the radial advancing
or receding of the movable and fixed pieces of the frame, which then receive
motion only from the wheel D to produce the enlargement or the narrowing
of the diameters. The essential point for obtaining these movements is based
on an arrangement of conical parts seen in Figures 3, 16, and 17. This
arrangement consists of a cylinder F-carrying two conical crowns G, H, and
á demi-crown I. These crowns are intended to receive three different kinds
of pieces, each having a conical groove in which the conical crown is fitted.
The up-and-down movement of the cylinder F which is fixed to the frame
produces the receding from and the advance towards the centre of the frame
of the corresponding grooved pieces. The crown G receives the pieces com-
posing the apparatus shown in Figures 7 to 15. This apparatus is composed
of a malleable cast-iron plate J, on which two plates K, L, are placed;
the plate K is of copper, and the plate L of malleable cast iron; each is
divided into four parts, connected to the plate J by screws.
Between every
two parts of the plates K, L, a space is left to serve as a guide to the four
grooved pieces M which support a ring or rail N, on which sinkers O
(Figures 2, 3, 50, and 51) run. The ring N consists of a steel plate
(Figures 12 aud 14) capable of adapting itself by its elasticity to the
different diameters of the stocking or other article to be manufactured.
Figures 12 and 13 show this plate at its largest, and Figures 14 and 15 at
its smallest diameter. The crown H receives the needle carriers H², Figures
3, 47, 48, and 49. These, needle carriers are held between two plates R, S,
Figure 3, and are composed of two flat parts T, U. The part U is thinner
than the part T, so that when all the needle carriers touch, a shoulder is
formed, against which the sinkers ( rest. A small copper nipple or pro-
jection is fitted to the end of the part U, so that all the needle carriers are in

page_text: contact. The needle carriers are connected together by two wires passing
into holes formed at the top and bottom of the part T. These wires while
supporting the needle carriers allow by their flexibility of the enlargement and
narrowing of the circumference formed by the needle carriers themselves.
The demi-crown I receives the conical groove of the movable needle carriers X
(Figures 54, 55, and 56) serving to fill up the spaces formeil between the
fixed needle carriers H when the change of circumference from a smaller to
a larger diameter takes place. It will be understood that a number of these
needles is lowered or raised to produce the different diminutions in the
stocking or other article. In Figure 1 all the movable needles are shown
raised, the circumference being at its smallest. These needles are connected
togethor by the piece shown in Figures 52, 53, and 54, and they rest on the
plate S¹, Figure 29, carrying the guide of the sliding plate S. Figures 55
and 56 show one of the movable needle carriers, and the manner of supporting
the sinkers Y. The needles are fitted in copper Z, which rises and descends
as required in a vertical circular groove Z. The sinkers Y hook on to the
ncedles themselves, and are constructed so that they all touch, and shaking
during the rotation of the frame is thereby prevented. When they are raised
these needle carriers pass beyond the level of the wheel B, which is formed
with a space for the
purpose. When a number of these needles is lowered,
and they are on a level with the others, the sinkers of these needles meet the
ring N, hook themselves to these needles, and take the level of the other
sinkers already in position. Thus these movable needles are intended to fill
up the spaces in the circumference caused by the enlargement of the cir-
cumference of of the lower needles. The number of needles to be raised or
lowered when the circumference is at its smallest or at its largest corresponds
to about a third of the largest circumference. The part of the frame where
the fall of the sinkers takes place consists of a combination of pieces repre-
sented in Figures 18 and 19. A support a is secured in a holder b by means
of screws. The holder b (shown detached in Figures 27 and 28) slides on a
steel piece c fixed to a supporting plate d (Figures 35 and 36), which is held
on the shaft C by screws e, e¹. On the support a a guide is fixed for regu-
lating the fall of the sinkers. This guide slides on a counterplate g, the rise
and descent of which is regulated by a screw h. This guide also serves to
regulate the size of the loop as required. The fall is produced when the sinkers
descend the curve i, Figure 2, which corresponds with the guide f, and they
rise up the curve j to take up the level of the preceding sinkers by passing
over the piece k, Figures 2 and 24. On the support a two guides 1, l', are
fitted to direct the cotton into the sinkers. The pusher (repousseuse) is com-

page_text: posed of two discs m, m', for pushing the fabric and the loop towards the centre.
These discs are supported by the piece n fixed to the support a by screws.
The supporting bar (souteneuse) is composed of an undulating piece t
Figures 18 and 19, it serves two purposes, on the one hand it supports the
needles at the time of the fall of the sinkers, and on the other hand it acts as a
guide during the formation of the loop to the sinkers, which lead it to the head
of the needles and retire when the presser wheel comes into action. The
presser wheel and the knock-over apparatus (abuttage) are connected to the
support o held like the support a in a sliding piece similar to 6 (Figures 27
and 28), which is also fixed to the supporting plate d. The presser p, Figures 22
and 23, consists of a disc or wheel oscillating on a shaft fitted at 45° and fixed
to a piece 9, which slides on the support o.
The height and the pressure are
regulated by a screw . The object of this presser wheel is to press upon the
barb of the needle when the loop is at the back at the head of the needle and the
sinker has retired. By pressing on the barb of the needle it prevents the fabric
pushed by the sinkers from re-entering into the barb, and permits it to fall
freely to the knock-over apparatus out of the needles with the row of finished
loops. The knock-over apparatus is composed of two pieces, the guide and the
lever. The guide k is hinged and carries a stud u, regulated by a screw. It
is this guide which the sinkers pass and which causes them to allow the fabric
to fall out of the needles; the sinkers occupy the position seen in Figure 2(6
The lever s, Figures 25 and 26, is pivoted. at t, and is supported at one part
on the stud u, and on another part between the arms of the piece v fixed to
the support a. A pushing disc v₁ is placed on the side of the support o,
Figures 20 and 21, and pushes the fabric in order to disengage it from the
barbs of the needles. The movement of the pieces 6 from and towards the
centre is produced by conical arms a, fixed to the collar y, Figures 33 and 34.
These arms slide in the opening at the end of the piece b, Figures 27 and 28.
In the up or down movement of the arms the pieces b approach or recede
from the centre, the collar y also carries two arms z fixed to the grooved ring g
of the wheel D. Two openings are formed in the supporting plate d,
Figure 35, for the passage of these arms; there are also two openings ¹, for
the arms. The collar y is above another collar y', Figure 16, which is held
on the cylinder F by arms f¹. On the ring g', Figures 1, 2, and 3, a circular
rib h¹ is formed, below which the arms ¹ of the wheel D. slide. The collar y' is
connected to the collar y when the frame is stopped to receive the largest
diameter by hooks ¹ fixed on the collar y (see Figures 33 and 34). The
wheel D is threaded internally and takes into a threaded collar D₁ on the

page_text: shaft C. In Figures 1, 2, and 3, and 3bis, the wheel D is shown lowered and
resting on the ring g¹.
To determine the number of revolutions corresponding to the number of
loops to be formed a counting apparatus, Figures 1 and 37, is fitted on the
supporting plate d, it consists of two wheels G¹, H', of the same diameter.
The wheel G is formed with ratchet teeth, and its axis carries a pinion, into
which the wheel H₁ gears. The wheel is formed on its circumference with
divisions corresponding to the number of loops to be counted. These divisions
marked at every fifth tooth of the wheel each correspond to 20 revolutions of
the circular frame, that is to say, the frame must make 20 revolutions to pass
from one division to the other. The point M¹ of a spring click fixed to the
support of the counting apparatus enters into each tooth and allows only one
tooth to pass at a time. The other end M2 of the click is arranged so as to
meet a nipple or projection on the wheel A. The meeting of these two pieces
during the rotation of the wheel A causes the ratchet wheel to advance one
tooth, which corresponds to one revolution of the circular frame. Each revo-
lution is indicated on the wheel H₁ by a fixed pointer K, attached to the
centre of the wheel. A ratchet L', Figures 40 and 41, fixed to the supporting
plated insures the stoppage of the frame when the click J is acted upon by
meeting the projection behind the divided wheel. The extremity N¹ of this
click is bent to hook on to the break O' fixed to the support of the ratchet L
This break oscillates on the point P1, and terminates at its lower end in a fork
for receiving the pin Q before entering a hole in the ratchet, to produce the
instantaneous stopping of the frame. There is a tooth R¹ on the horizontal
wheel B, Figure 60, to impart rotary motion to the ratchet every time it meets
it; thus when the wheel A is driven the ratchet wheel of the counting
apparatus is caused to advance a certaim number of teeth corresponding to a
certain number of revolutions of the frame indicated by the pointer on the
divided wheel. When the last revolution is arrived at the projection of the
divided wheel meeting the extremity 1' of the click J¹ unhooks the extremity N¹
from the break O₁; the break being acted upon by a spring S" causes the
pin Q to advance into the hole in the ratchet L', and the rotary motion of the
frame is stopped. This stoppage takes place after the number of revolutions
indicated by the pointer is completed. Below the wheel B another break T,
Figure. 61, is fixed for the purpose of preventing the upward movement of
the frame. This movement cannot be effected except by roleasing the break.
The break is composed of a piece of flat steel free to oscillate at T; notches
are formed at one side, into which a tooth U₁ fixed to the cylinder Fenters; on

page_text: the other side a spring plate V₁ presses to keep the piece T' against the tooth U¹.
Two rectangular openings are formed in the wheel B for the passage of arms f¹:
The lower end of the central sbaft C is terminated by a point, below whicli
the sewing apparatus is pivoted. This apparatus simulates sewing on the
stocking, it consists of a rod a³, Figure 4, pivoted at the top under the shaft of
the circular frame, and at the bottom on a movable pivot in the base of the
framework. This rod carries two spring plates c for supporting a weight d², to
which the work is connected. A flat bar f rests at its bottom on a piece g³
fixed to the rod a². The piece is formed with a guide, in which a plate v³
slides; this plate is formed at its lower part with an opening, into which one
end of a lever h³ fits; this lever has its fulcrum on the rod a², the upper end
of the plate receives one end of the wire . The lever h* carries a small roller
riding on an excentric, Figure 62, on a shoulder, cast with the frame-
work. The upper part of the bar f' has connected thereto a small arm m²,
sliding in a groove or slot formed in a piece n², which carries the needle o² of
the sewing apparatus. The needle is supported at the back by a spring s³,
the piece n carries at its lower part a hook p2 which receives the lower end of
a coiled spring ³, the upper end of which is connected to the arm m³. Below
the hook p² there is a small hook to receive the upper end of the wire ?!
The rod a² is held by a screw to a piece q³, Figures 4, 57, 58, and 59, adjusted
by a dovetail in a groove under the plate of the needle carriers. The junction
of these two pieces unites the sewing apparatus to the circular frame. The
sewing apparatus receives the rotary motion of the frame with which it turns,
following the configuration of the excentric fitted at its lower part. To with-
draw the sewing apparatus unscrew the screw which holds the pivot b² at
the necessary height, the pivot be rests on a coiled spring fitted in the bed l².
The needle of the sewing apparatus is hinged, it is provided with a claw to
enable it to take hold of the loop. The sewing apparatus is placed contrarily
to the other needles so as to simulate the sewing externally. The loop obtained
by the sewing apparatus is a loop turned back contrarily to the other needles.
A support on which four or more bobbins are fitted to feed the circular frame is
held by screws on the. support a; a guide for each bobbin is placed above it
to guide the cotton or other material, as represented in Figure 3bis
Working of. the machine.-The diameter of the stocking or other article
of hosiery requiring proportion and diminution being. determined, say, the
largest diameter, and the corresponding number of revolutions being indicated
by the pointer on the counting apparatus, the cotton or wool is brought by the
guides, to the proximity of the sinkers (all the complemental movable needles
are lowered) By turning the crank handle rotary motion is imparted to the

page_text: At
frame, the nip of the sinkers seizes the cotton, draws it for the formation of the
loop at the fall of the sinkers, and meeting the supporting bar brings it to the
head of the needles. The sinkers as well as the fabric meet the pusher of the
presser wheel which disengages the fabric from the barbs of the needles leaving
the row of loops in the barb. The presser wheel acts upon the barbs and the
fabric rises over, and the knock-over apparatus pushes it from the needles; each
revolution of the frame produces a row of loops. The frame is continued in
work until it stops of itself, because then the number of revolutions corre-
sponding to the number of rows of loops to be formed has been completed.
It is now required to diminish the diameter of the stocking in order to produce
what are termed the diminutions; the corresponding number is indicated by
the pointer on the counting apparatus, then a determined number of needles
is raised, whereby a void is left in the circumference of the fixed needles.
this period of the work it is necessary while raising a part of the needles at the
primitive circumference, that is to say, at the largest to diminish this circum-
ference in such manner that all the parts shall touch and have the same
relation between themselves, and consequently the same centre. This is
performed as follows:-The wheel D is turned to lower it; it thus exerts
pressure on the movable supports, and at the same time on the cylinder carrying
the conical crowns which it causes to descend. The conical crowns slide in
the conical grooves of the movable pieces in relation with them and cause the
latter to approach the centre. This movement fills up the space of the raised
needles without making any change in the respective situation of the needles
with regard to each other. The expanding and collapsing ring apparatus
receives the same movement, it diminishes in diameter in consequence of the
special arrangement herein-before described. This oblique movement to the
interior resulting from a lateral movement, and a radial movement produced
by the rotation of the wheel D is communicated to the accessory parts of the
frame. This operation is repeated as many times as is necessary to obtain the
required number of diminutions. To return the frame to its normal diameter
when the diminutions are completed, the collars y, y¹, are unhooked, then
the break T is released and the wheel D raised to its original position. This
action produces the inverse effect of the previous movement, and produces at
the right and left of the group of needles an empty space without changing
the respective distance of the needles in relation to each other. This space,
which is, in fact, the void formed by the needles successively raised for the
narrowing, is filled up by a general lowering of the raised needles and sinkers.
All the parts of the frame are affected by this movement, the ring is enlarged
to the required diameter, and the other pieces take up the respective positions

page_text: they ought to occupy to fulfil their parts as before. By this arrangement all
the pieces of the framo preserve their normal position, since in the radial
movement outwards and inwards there is a working together such that the
pieces always preserve the same relation to each other, thereby assuring a
perfect regularity of action. The sewing apparatus rests against the
circular frame outside the fabric, the needle of a particular form before
described is placed with the head uppermost, and the barb
turned outwards. It action is produced by its rotation round the excentric
situated at the lower part. At each revolution the sewing apparatus makes a
loop or stitch. To make this loop it receives a particular movement. When
the roller of the lever h² runs on the plain part of the excentric the needle of
the sewing apparatus passes the other needles a slight distance; as soon as
the roller of the lever he meets the swell of the excentric the oscillation of the
lever caused thereby produces a drawing movement on the piece to which the
needle is fixed; the needle then descends below the level of the other needles,
and in this downward movement it forms the loop. As soon as the swell of
the excentric has been passed the needle rises quickly under the action of the
coiled spring attached to the hook of the needle carrier. This operation is
repeated for every row of loops. The fabric is stretched by means of a weight
which causes it to descend in proportion to the advance of the work. When
during the working a repair is necessary in the fabric the weight is raised on
the spring plates fixed to the central rod of the sewing apparatus, and when the
repair has been effected the weight is allowed to fall. To disengage the fabric
from the frame the screw of the lower pivot is unserewed, the sewing apparates
is withdrawn, and the work taken out. To recommenco the sewing apparatus
is replaced and the operations are carried on as herein-before explained. By
dispensing with the sewing apparatus which forms an independent part of the
circular frame, stockings without sewing are manufactured. In the arrange-
ment of circular frame herein-before described the proportional diminution is
produced in the form of a V, as seen in Figure 3bis.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by Amelia Susannali Brooman in the Great Seal Patent Office on
the 14th July 1866.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, AMELIA
5 SUSANNAH BROOMAN, of Twickenham, in the County of Middlesex, Widow

page_text: and sole Executrix of Richard Archibald Brooman, late of 166, Fleet Street,
in the City of London, Patent Agent, deceased, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty. Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Fifteenth day of January, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-six, in the twenty-ninth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me,
the said Amelia Susannah: Brooman, Her special licence that I, the: said
Amelia Susannah Brooman, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or
such others as I, the said Amelia Susannah Brooman, my exccutors,
administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others,
from time to time and at all times thereafter during the term therein
expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within
the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands;
and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN CIRCULAR FRAMES FOR
THE MANUFACTURE OF LOOPED FABRICS," (communicated to the said Richard
Archibald Brooman from abroad by Emile Lecœur, of Passy, France,) upon
the condition (amongst others) that I, the said Amelia Susannah Brooman, my
executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or
one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the
nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be per-
formed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office
within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said
Letters Patent.
☐ NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Amelia Susannah Brooman, do
hereby declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in
and by the following statement thereof, reference being had to the Drawings
hereunto annexed, that is to say :-
The chief object of this Invention is to manufacture mechanically stockings
and other hosiery with a diminution and proportion possessing perfect regu-
larity of the loops in all parts. The point which mainly distinguishes the
circular frame, which forms the subject of the present Invention, from other
frames is a novel action of the needles and sinkers.
To carry out this Invention it is necessary to construct with each of these
two series of parts the needles and the sinkers which are coupled to form the
loops, a combination of pieces such that their number can be diminished as
required in proportion to the diminution to be produced in the stocking or
other article, and that their movement leaving their respective intervals
constant will preserve the regularity of the loops or fabric...

page_text: This combination is subordinate to the solution of the following double
problem-1st, given a surface in the form of a circular crown composed of
equal independent and equidistant parts, to diminish the perimeter of this
crown by the removal of a certain number of its parts, so that the
thickness of the crown and its form shall not vary, and that the remaining
parts shall remain at the same respective distances. 2nd, to impart to the
needles which compose this crown as well as to the other parts of the frame
a movement, which displaces them all simultaneously and conjointly according
to the conditions required.
Now in the circular frame which forms the subject. of the present Inven
tion, the first part of this problem is solved by a rationally arranged
organization of the needles and of their supports, and the second part by a
conical piece, which by sliding in grooves formed in each of the moving or
working parts of the frame causes them to converge and diverge according to
whether the conical piece is raised or lowered.
The Invention will be fully understood on reference to the annexed
Drawings, and by the following description thereof.
Figure 1 is an elevation of the circular frame seen from the side of the
movable needles which produce the diminutions in the stocking; Figure 2 is
a back view; Figure 3 is a sectional elevation; Figure 3 represents the
frame at work with the stocking and its diminutions; Figure 4 is an elevation
of the sewing apparatus; Figure 5 is a front view of the upper part; and
Figure 6 a front view of the lower part of the sewing apparatus; Figures 7 to
63 are detailed views of the parts composing the frame. Rotary motion is
imparted by a toothed wheel A, Figure 1, fitted with a crank handle. This
wheel gears into another wheel B (Figures 1, 2, 3 and 60), mounted on a
movable collar on the central shaft C (Figure 63) of the frame. The shaft C
is thinned in a conical form from the wheel B to the bottom, where it
terminates in a point serving as a pivot to the rod a² of the sewing apparatus
(see Figure 4). The frame may be supported by cast-iron framework, as
seen in Figure 3bis, or it may be suspended from a transverse wooden joist, as
seen in Figures 1, 2, and 3. The same frainework may be arranged to
receive several circular frames. Two series of distinct pieces compose this
circular frame; first, the pieces receiving rotary motion and maintained
together by screws or otherwise, this motion is communicated to them by the
wheel B; second, the pieces independent of the rotary motion, being only
caused to recede from and advance towards the centre by the action of a
wheel D with four handles E (Figures 1, 2, 3, 42, and 43). When it is
required to produce this radial movement the pieces which have a rotary

page_text: motion become fixed by their being connected with the other fixed pieces by
means of hooks or otherwise (these pieces are connected to each other by
hooks when it is required to alter the frame from a smaller to a larger
diameter). Thus the different diminutions to be effected in the stocking or
other article are obtained by the combination, either for the radial advancing
or receding of the movable or working, and the fixed pieces of the frame which
then receive motion only from the wheel D to produce the enlargement or the
narrowing of the diameters. The essential point for obtaining these move-
ments is base on an arrangement of conical parts seen in Figures 3, 16 and 17.
This arrangement consists of a cylinder F carrying two conical crowns G, H,
and a demi-crown I. These crowns are intended to receive three different
kind of pieces, each having a conical groove in which the conical crown is
fitted. The up-and-down movement of the cylinder F which is fixed to the
frame produces the receding from and the advance towards the centre of the
frame of the corresponding grooved pieces. The crown G receives the pieces
composing the apparatus shown in Figure 7 to 15. This apparatus is
composed of a malleable cast-iron plate J, on which two plates K, L, are
placed; the plate K is of copper, and the plate L of malleable cast iron; 'each
is divided into four parts connected to the plate J by screws.
Between every
two parts of the plates K, L, a 'space is left to serve as a guide to the four
grooved pieces M, which support a ring or rail N, on which sinkers O
(Figures 2, 3, 50, and 51) run. The ring N consists of a steel plate
(Figures 12 and 14) capable of adapting itself by its elasticity to the different
diameters of the stocking or other article to be manufactured. Figures 12
and 13 show this plate at its largest, and Figures 14 and 15 at its smallest
diameter. The crown H receives the needle carriers H, Figures 3, 47, 48,
and 49. These needle carriers are held between two plates R, S, Figure 3,
and are composed of two flat parts T, U. The part U is thinner than the
part T, so that when all the needle carriers touch, a shoulder is formed
against which the sinkers O rest. A small copper nipple or projection is
fitted to the end of the part U, so that all the needle carriers are in contact.
The needle carriers are connected together by two wires passing into holes
formed at the top and bottom of the part T. These wires while supporting
the needle carriers allow by their flexibility of the enlargement and narrowing
of the circumference formed by the needle carriers themselves. The demi-
crown I receives the conical groove of the movable needle carriers X
(Figures 54, 55, and 56), serving to fill up the spaces formed between the
fixed needle carriers II, when the change of circumference from a smaller to
a larger diameter takes place. It will be understood that a number of these

page_text: needles is lowered or raised. to produce the different diminutions. in the.
stocking or other article. In Figure 1 all the movable needles are shown
raised, the circumference being at its smallest. These needles are connected
together by the piece shown in Figures 52, 53, and 54, and they rest on the
plate S, Figure 29, carrying the guide of the sliding plate S. Figures 55.
and 56 show one of the movable needle carriers and the manner of supporting
the sinkers Y. The needles are fitted in copper Z, which rises and descends
as required in a vertical circular groove Z'. The sinkers Y hook on to the:
needles themselves, and are constructed so that they all touch, and shaking,
during the rotation of the frame is thereby prevented.. When they are raised,
these needle carriers pass. beyond the level of the wheel B, which is formed
with a space for the purpose. When a number of these needles is lowered, and:
they are on a level with the others, the sinkers of these needles meet the ring.
N, hook themselves to these needles, and take the level of the other sinkers
already in position. Thus these movable needles, are intended to fill up the
spaces in the circumference caused by the enlargement of the circumference
of the lower needles. The number of needles to be raised or lowered when
the circumference is at its smallest or at its largest corresponds to about a
third of the largest circumference. The part of the frame where the fall of
the sinkers takes place consists of a combination of pieces represented in.
Figures 18 and 19. .A support a is secured in a holder 6 by means of screws.
The holder b. (shown detached in Figures 27 and 28) slides on a steel piece c
fixed to a supporting plate d (Figures 35 and 36), which is held on the shaft
C by screws e, e¹. On the support a a guide f is fixed for regulating the fall
of the sinkers. This guide slides on a counterplate g, the rise and descent of
which is regulated by a screw h. This guide also serves to regulate the size
of loop as required. The fall is produced when the sinkers descend the
curve i, Figure 2, which corresponds with the guide f, and they rise up the
curve to take up the level of the proceeding sinkers by passing over the
piece k, Figures 2 and 24. On the support a two guides 1, 1, are fitted to
direct the cotton into the sinkers. The pusher (repousseuse) is composed of
two discs m, m³, for pushing the fabric and the loop towards the centre.
These discs are supported by the piece n fixed to the support a by screws.
The supporting bar (souteneuse) is composed of an undulated piece t²,
Figures 18 and 19, it serves two purposes; on the one hand it supports the
needles at the time of the fall of the sinkers, and on the other hand it acts
as a guide during the formation of the loop to the sinkers which lead it to
the head of the needles and retire when the presser wheel comes into action.
The presser wheel and the knock-over apparatus (abattage) are connected

page_text: to the support o, held like the support a in a sliding piece similar to b
(Figures 27 and 28), which is also fixed to the supporting plate d. The
presser p, (Figures 22 and 23,) consists of a disc or wheel oscillating on a shaft
fitted at 45°, and fixed to a piece q which slides on the support o. The
height and the pressure are regulated by a screw r. The object of this
presser wheel is to press upon the barb of the needle when the loop is at the
back at the head of the needle and the sinker has retired. By pressing on
the barb of the needle it prevents. the fabric pushed by the sinkers from re-
entering into the barb, and permits it to fall freely to the knock-over apparatus
out of the needles with the row of finished loops. The knock-over apparatus
is composed of two pieces, the guide and the lever. The guide k is binged
and carries a stud u regulated by a screw; it is this guide which the sinkers
pass, and which causes them to allow the fabric to fall out of the needles.
The sinkers occupy the position seen in Figure 2. The lever s, Figures 25
and 26, is pivoted at t, and is supported at one part on the stud u, and on
another part between the armis of the piece v fixed to the support a. A pushing
disc is placed on the side of the support o, Figure 20 and 21, and pushes
the fabric in order to disengage it from the barbs of the needles. The
movement of the pieces 6 from and towards the centre is produced by conical
armis a fixed to the collar y, Figures 33 and 34; these arms slide in the
opening at the end of the piece b, Figures 27 and 28. In the up or down
movement of the arms the pieces b approach or recede from the centre. The
collar y also carries two arms z fixed to the grooved ring g¹ of the wheel D.
Two openings are formed in the supporting plate d, Figure 35, for the
passage of these arms; there are also two openings ¹ for the arms x. The
collar y is above another collar y', Figure 16, which is held on the cylinder F
by arms f¹. On the ring g', Figures 1, 2, and 3, a circular rib ¹ is formed,
below which the arms of the wheel D slide. The collar y¹ is connected to
the collar y when the frame is stopped to receive, the largest diameter by
hooks ¹ fixed on the collar y (see Figures 33 and 34). The wheel Dis
threaded internally and takes into a threaded collar D₁ on the shaft C. In
Figures 1, 2, 3, and 8bis the wheel D is shown lowered and resting on the
ring g¹.
To determine the number of revolutions corresponding to the number of
loops to be formed a counting apparatus, Figures 1 and 37, is fitted on the
supporting plate d. It consists of two wheels G', H', of the same diameter.
The wheel G¹ is formed with ratchet teeth, and its axis carries a pinion into which
the wheel H' gears. This wheel is formed on its circumference with divisions
corresponding to the number of loops to be counted. These divisions marked

page_text: at every fifth tooth of the wheel, each correspond to twenty revolutions of the
circular frame, that is to say, the frame must make twenty revolutions to pass
from one division to the other. The point M' of a spring click fixed to the.
support of the counting apparatus enters into each tooth, and allows only one
tooth to pass at a time; the other end M of the click is arranged so as to
meet a nipple or projection on tho wheel A. The meeting of these two pieces
during the rotation of the wheel A causes the ratchet wheel to advance one
tooth, which corresponds to one. revolution of the circular frame. Each
revolution is indicated on the. wheel H by a fixed pointer K¹ attached to
the centre of the wheel. A ratchet L', Figures 40 and 41, fixed to the
supporting plated insures the stoppage of the frame when the click Jis
acted upon by meeting the projection behind the divided wheel. Tho
extremity N of this click is bent to hook on to the break O¹ fixed to the
support of the ratchet L'; this break oscillates on the point P1, and terminates
at its lower end in a fork for receiving the pin Q¹.before entering a hole in
the ratchet to produce the instantaneous stopping of the frame. There is a
tooth R¹ on the horizontal wheel B, Figure 60, to impart rotary motion to
the ratchet every time it meets it; thus when the wheel .A is driven, the,
ratchet wheel of the counting apparatus is caused to advance a certain
number of teeth corresponding to a certain number of revolutions of the frame
indicated by the pointer on the divided wheel. When the last revolution is
arrived at the projection of the divided wheel meeting the extremity I¹ of
the click J¹ unhooks the extremity N¹ from the break O¹; the break being
acted upon by a spring S" causes the pin Q to advance into the hole in the
ratchet L', and the rotary motion of the frame is stopped; this stoppago
takes place after the number of revolutions indicated by the pointer is com
pleted. Below the wheel B another break T, Figure 61, is fixed for the
purpose of preventing the upward movement of the frame; this movement
cannot be effected except by releasing the break. The break is composed of
a piece of flat steel free to oscillate at T; notches are formed at one side
into which a tooth U₁ fixed to the cylinder F enters; on the other side a spring
plate V¹ presses to keep the piece T¹ against the tooth U¹. Two rectangular
openings are formed in the wheel B for the passage of the arms f¹. The
lower end of the central shaft C is terminated by a point, below which the
sewing apparatus is pivoted. This apparatus simulates sewing on the
stocking. It consists of a rod a2, Figure 4, pivoted at the top under the
shaft of the circular frame, and at the bottom on a movable pivot b² in the base
of the framework; this rod carries two spring plates & for supporting a weight
, to which the work is connected. A flat bar f rests at its bottom on a

page_text: piece g fixed to the rod a. The piece g is formed with a guide in which a
plate slides; this plate is formed at its lower part with an opening, into
which one end of a lever he fits; this lever has its fulcrum on the rod a; the
upper end of the plate receives one end of the wire . The lever h²
carries a small roller , riding on an excentric, Figure 62, on a shoulder
cast with the framework. The upper part of the bar fe has connected
thereto a small arm m³ sliding in a groove or slot formed in a piece n³, which
carries the needle o of the sewing apparatus; the needle is supported at the
back by a spring s. The piece n carries at its lower part, a hook p³, which
receives the lower end of a coiled spring ; the upper end of which is
connected to the arm m². Below the hook p there is a small book to
receive the upper end of the wire . The rod a² is held by a screw to a
piece q, Figures 4, 57, 58, and 59, adjusted by a dovetail in a groove
under the plate of the needle carriers. The junction of these 2 pieces unites
the sewing apparatus to the circular frame. The sewing apparatus receives
the rotary motion of the frame with which it turns, following the configuration
of the excentric fitted at its lower part: To withdraw the sewing apparatus
unscrew the screw which holds the pivot 62 at the necessary height; the
pivot brests on a coiled spring fitted in the bed . The needle of the
sewing apparatus is hinged; it is provided with a claw to enable it to take
hold of the loop. The sewing apparatus is placed contrarily to the other
needles so as to simulate the sewing externally. The loop obtained by the
sewing apparatus is a loop turned back contrarily to the other needles. A
support on which four or more bobbins are fitted to feed the circular frame
is held by screws on the support a. A guide for each bobbin is placed
above it to guide the cotton or other material as represented in Figure 3bi³.
Working of the machine.-The diameter of the stocking or other article of
hosiery requiring proportion and diminution being determined, say, the largest
diameter, and the corresponding number of revolutions being indicated by the
pointer on the counting apparatus, the cotton or wool is brought by the guides
to the proximity of the sinkers. (All the complemental movable needles are
lowered.) By turning the crank handle rotary motion is imparted to the
frame, the nip of the sinkers seizes the cotton, draws it for the formation of
the loop at the fall of the sinkers, and meeting the supporting bar brings it to
the head of the needles. The sinkers, as well as.. the fabric, meet the pusher
of the presser wheel which disengages the fabric from the barbs of the needles,
leaving the row of loops in the barb. The presser wheel acts upon the barbs
and the fabric rises over, and the knock-over apparatus pushes it from the
needles. Each revolution of the frame produces a row of loops. The frame

page_text: is continued in work until it stops of itself, because then the number of revo-
lutions corresponding to the number of rows of loops to be formed has been
completed.
It is now required to diminish the diameter of the stocking in order to
produce what are termed the diminutions; the corresponding number is
indicated by the pointer on the counting apparatus, then a determined number
of needles is raised, whereby a void is left in the circumferenco of the fixed
needles. At this period of the work it is necessary while raising a part of the
needles at the primitive circumference, that is to say, at the largest, to
diminish this circumference in such manner that all the parts shall touch and
have the same relation between themselves, and consequently the same centre.
This is performed as follows:-The wheel D is turned to lower it, it thus
exerts pressure on the movable supports, and at the same time on the cylinder
carrying the conical crowns, which it causes to descend. The conical crowns
slide in the conical grooves of the movable pieces in relation with them, and
cause the latter to approach the centre. This movement fills up the space of
the raised needles without making any change in the respective situation of
the needles with regard to each other. The expanding and collapsing ring
apparatus receives the same movement, it diminishes in diameter in conse-
quence of the special arrangement herein-before described. This oblique
movement to the interior resulting from a lateral movement and a radial
movement produced by the rotation of the wheel D is communicated to the
accessory parts of the frame. This operation is repeated as many times as is
necessary to obtain the required number of diminutions. To return the
frame to its normal diameter when the diminutions are completed the collars
y, y', are unhooked, then the break T¹ is released, and the wheel D raised to
its original position. This action produces the inverse effect of the previous
movement, and produces at the right and left of the group of needles an empty
space without changing the respective distance of the needles in relation to
each other. This space which is in fact the void formed by the needles suc-
cessively raised for the narrowing is filled up by a general lowering of the
raised needles and sinkers. All the parts of the frame are affected by this
movement, the ring is enlarged to the required diameter, and the other pieces
take up the respective positions they ought to occupy to fulfil their parts as
before. By this arrangement all the pieces of the frame preserve their
normal position, since in the radial movement outwards and inwards there is
a working together such that the pieces always preserve the same relation to
each other, thereby assuring a perfect regularity of action. The sewing apparatus
B**

page_text: rests against the circular frame outside the fabric, the needle of a par
ticular form described is placed with the head uppermost, and the barb or
hook turned outwards. Its action is produced by its rotation round the
excentric situated at the lower part. At cach revolution the sewing apparatus
makes a loop or stitch. To make this loop it receives a particular movement.
When the roller of the lever he runs on the plain part of the excentric the
needle of the sewing apparatus passes the other needles a slight distance; as
soon as the roller of the lever h² meets the swell of the excentric the
oscillation of the lever caused thereby produces a drawing movement on the
piece to which the needle is fixed; the needle then descends below the level
of the other needles, and in this downward movement it forms the loop. As
soon as the swell of the excentric has been passed the needle rises quickly
under the action of the coiled spring attached to the hook of the needle
carrier. This operation is repeated for every row of loops. The fabric is
stretched by means of a weight, which causes it to descend in proportion to
the advance of the work. When during the working a repair is necessary in
the fabric, the weight is raised on the spring plates fixed to the central rod of
the sewing apparatus, and when the repair has been effected the weight is
allowed to fall. To disengage the fabric from the frame the screw of the
lower pivot is unscrewed, the sewing apparatus is withdrawn, and the work
taken out: To recommence the sewing, apparatus is replaced, and the opera-
tions are carried on as herein-before explained. By dispensing with the
sewing apparatus, which forms an independent part of the circular frame,
stockings-without sewing are manufactured. In the arrangement of circular
frame, herein before described, the proportional diminution is produced in the
form of a V, as seen in Figure 3b!*.
And having now described the nature of the said Invention, and in what
manner the same is to be performed, I declare that I claim as the "Improve-
ments in Circular Frames for the Manufacture of Looped Fabrics,"
-
First, the arrangement and combination of parts of circular frames sub-
stantially as herein-before described and represented in the accompanying
Drawings, for effecting mechanically the formation of loops, always equal and
possessing perfect regularity in all the parts of stockings and other hosiery
having diminution and proportion.
Second, constructing and arranging the needles and sinkers, and parts con-
nected therewith, so that the same will act substantially as and for the
purpose herein-before described...
Third, the conical parts or pieces constructed, arranged, and acting sub-

page_text: stantially, as herein-before described, for imparting a simultaneous movement
or displacement to the morable or working pieces of the frame.
In witness whereof, I, the said Amelia Susannah Brooman, have here-
unto set my hand and seal, this Thirteenth day of July, One thousand
eight hundred and sixty-six.