Year: 1885

page_text: I HENRY EDWARD NEWTON, of the Office for Patents, 6 Bream's Buildings,
Chancery Lane in the County of Middlesex, Civil Engineer do hereby declare the
nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention consists in the means for employing, in wax thread sewing
machines, two, three, or more separate or parallel threads, as the needle or shuttle
threads, in place of single threads in each sewing instrument, as hitherto, whereby
greater elasticity, and a stronger, flatter, and broader stitch, is obtained.-To this
end, the hooked needle is formed with a broad flat bottom to the barb, to allow
of the multiple threads lying parallel and side by side in the hook. The whirl,
when such is used as the looper, is perforated with the requisite number of holes,
according to the number of threads employed, by which means the several threads
separate until they are placed in the hook of the needle. The pusher employed to
place the threads in the hook of the. needle, is also provided with separate guiding
holes or sockets for keeping the threads separate until placed in the needle.-When
a lock stitch is to be made, the shuttle may be furnished with the single ordinary
wax carrying loosely twisted thread, or with multiple parallel threads, as above
referred to. The invention is applicable to stitching either soles, middle sole, welt,
or runner, to uppers, for which purpose no special form of throat plate is required,
but when stitching in cases where the stitches are not intended to attach the
soles &c to the upper, a special form of needle plate is employed, having an inclined
projection on its upper and front edge, on which the sole rests, in such a position
that the needle will pass through close to the outer under edge of the sole.
In order to ensure the proper inclination to the sole to obtain this result, &
conical guiding roller is adjustably attached to the needle plate, against which
roller the edge of the sole is pressed.

page_text: Improvements in Boot Sewing Machinery.
I HENRY EDWARD NEWTON of the Office for Patents, 6 Bream's Buildings,
Chancery Lane in the County of Middlesex, Civil Engineer do hereby declare the
nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
This invention consists in the means for employing in wax thread sewing
machines two, three, or more separate or parallel threads as the needle or shuttle
threads, in place of single threads, in each sewing instrument as bitherto, whereby
greater elasticity, and a flatter and broader stitch is obtained, and the invention
also consists in the means for maintaining the sole in an inclined position, whereby
the sewing may take place at an angle.
In carrying out this invention, the hooked needle is formed with a broad flat
bottom to the barb to allow of the multiple threads lying parallel and side by side
in the hook. The whirl, when such is used as the looper, is perforated with the
requisite number of holes according to the number of threads employed, by which
means the several threads are kept separate until they are placed in the hook of
the needle. The pusher employed to place the threads in the hook of the needle
is also provided with separate guiding holes or sockets for keeping the threads
separate until placed in the needle. When a lock stitch is to be inade, the shuttle
may be furnished with the single ordinary wax-carrying, loosely twisted thread, or
with multiple parallel threads as above referred to.
The machinery is applicable either to stitching soles, middle soles, welts, or
runners to uppers, but when stitching in cases where the stitches are not intended
to attach the sole to the upper, a special form of needle plate is einployed having
an inclined projection on its upper and front edge, on which the sole rests, in such
a position that the needle will pass through at an angle, and close to the outer
under edge of the sole.
In order to ensure the proper inclination of the sole to obtain this result, à
conical guiding roller or inclined plate is adjustably attached to the needle plate,
against which roller or plate the edge of the sole is pressed.
In order that the invention may be fully understood and readily carried into
effect, the same will now be described in detail, reference being had to the accom-
panying drawings, in which-
Fig. is a side elevation, partly in section, of 'the inachine for sewing boots and
shoes embodying this invention.
Fig. 2 shows the upper needle, and
Figs. 3 are diagrammatical views of the improved stitch.
The machine, as shown in Fig. 1, is adapted to stitch round the edges of soles of
boots or shoes in the following manner.

page_text: When the said stitches have not to hold or attach the sole on or to the upper or
boot or shoe, a so called needle plate or piece of metal R is employed, the same
having an inclined surface R¹ on which the sole or middle sole or runner or welt M
rests when being stitched. By the said inclined surface, the sole is kept at an
angle to the hook or needle D.-The edge of the sole rests against, and is guided
by an adjustable conical roller or inclined plate Z, and by these means the stitches
can be sewn close to the edge of the sole or slip sole or welt or runner, on the side
which has to be placed next the upper of the boot or shoe.-When the two or more
separate threads are used in the hook, as herein before described, the thread feeder
or pusher or guide has holes to correspond to the number of separate threads,
whereby the threads can be kept in proper position.
The hook D is made with a broad flat surface on which the threads rest during
the time they are being drawn or pulled through the material, so that the threads
lie side by side.-The number and arrangement of the threads may be varied;
thus, one thread in the shuttle and two or more in the hook may be used, or one
thread in the hook and two or more in the shuttle, or two or more in the hook and
two or more in the shuttle may be employed, thereby giving a more elastic or
flatter and a broader stitch than heretofore. The form of the stitch is clearly
shown in Figs. 3, in which two threads, 1 and 2, are employed with the hook, and
a single thread (3) with the shuttle.
In stitching the sole with three or more separate threads on or to the welt
runner or middle sole, when these have been previously fixed on or to the boot
or shoe by sewing, screwing, nailing or otherwise, the slanting surface R¹ of the
needle plate and the roller or guide Z may be dispensed with.
In sewing the soles on what is termed sewn-through boots or shoes, in a machine
with a rotary arm or horn, two or more separate threads can be used in the shuttle,
and two or more separate threads in the hook, and the whirl or thread placer can
have several separate holes for the separate threads to pass through. The advantage
thus gained from the use of three or more separate threads is, that a more elastic
stitch than heretofore is obtained.
When a chain stitch machine is used to sew or stitch the row of stitches near
the edge on the sole, welt, runner, or middle sole, the said stitches can be formed
with the double or quadruple threads of the chain stitch on the welt side of the
sole or runner or middle sole (that is the side of the sole runner or middle sole
which is next to the upper of the boot or shoe), and the quadruple threads
of the chain stitch are formed by using two threads in the hook at one and the
same time.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said
Invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, as communicated to
me by my Foreign Correspondent, I declare that what I claim is :-
1. The improved form of stitch substantially as described.
2. The means whereby the row of stitches on the sole or welt, namely on the
side of the sole or welt which is or has to be placed next to the upper of a boot or
shoe, are formed, such stitches being composed of two or more separate threads
lying close together or alongside of each other, thereby making a broader, flatter,
and more elastic stitch than heretofore.
.
3. The means whereby a row of stitches composed of three or more separate
threads, can be sewn at one and the same time, the said three or more threads
being in or lying in one or the same hole, and in or through one or more pieces of
material.
4. The means whereby a row of stitches composed or formed of three or more
separate threads, are sewn in or through the sole of a boot or shoe or the middle
sole of a boot or shoe, or the sole and welt of a boot or shoe, or the welt and

page_text: runner or runners of a boot or shoe, or the sole and runner or runners and middle
sole or middle soles of a boot or shoe.
5. The means whereby the sole alone, or sole and one or more pieces of material,
can be stitched through near the edge, the said stitches not having to hold the sole
on or to the boot or shoe, but to give the appearance of a welted boot or shoe.
Dated this 8th day of Santain how 1000