Improvements in Shedding Mechanism for Weaving Figured Reversible Terry Fabrics.
Year: 1897

page_text: PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Shedding Mechanism for Weaving Figured
Reversible Terry Fabrics.
I, WILLIAM MYERS, of 334, Bridgman Street, Bolton, Teacher of Weaving,
do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
My invention is designed for the economical production of fabrics known as
figured reversible terries in which two or more colours are being used simul-
taneously, and it is equally applicable to the manufacture of 3, 4, 5, 6, or other
picked terries.
Now by the usual system of weaving such fabrics, one hook and one needle
of an ordinary jacquard machine are required for each pile warp thread, and
one jacquard card for each pick of weft; but by my invention, considerable
economiy effected by causing one needle to control two warp pile threads.
and one jacquard card to control one complete terry weave whether it be 3, 4, 5,
or 6 picks to the round.
Therefore if a 200 needle machine of my invention uses one card for every 3,
4,5, or 6 picks inserted, then by the ordinary methods, two machines of equal
needle capacity, and each using one card for every pick inserted would be
required. Thus for a design of a given size in a three picked terry fabric. I
employ one jacquard card instead of six jacquard cards as now: also in a five
picked terry fabric I employ one jacquard card instead of ten as by the ordinary
methods of weaving these fabrics, and economies will be effected in other
numbers to the round of the terry to a similar extent.
A further important economy is effected in designing; for by using my inven-
tion the figures of the design only require to be painted-in solid on the design
paper, whereas by the ordinary methods of designing for these fabrics, two
designs must be made, in one of which the full working of each thread of the
pile warp for every pick of weft must be clearly shown.
In carrying out my invention I employ a machine in which each needle
operates four hooks, two of the said hooks. being made to govern a warp thread
of one colour, and the two remaining hooks to govern a differently coloured
warp thread.
The griffes of my machine are so arranged that they can be operated by
cams affixed to the loom in any convenient position, the cams being so constructed
as to lift the griffes (in accordance with the requirements of the weave,) which
is always in opposition one to the other.
It is well known that in figured reversible terries, the pile warp from the
upper surface is down to bind on the same pick of weft, that the pile warp from
the lower surface is up to bind.
Now by my invention a hole in any pattern card will cause one colour of warp
to make pile on the top, and the same hole will cause the other colour of warp

page_text: to make pile on the underside, whilst a blank in a card, will cause the colour
which was previously on the top to make pile on the lower side, and that which
was below to make pile on the top.
My invention may also be applied to dobbies or heald operating-mechanism.
Dated this 26th day of November 1897.
Improvements in Shedding Mechanism for Weaving Figured
Reversible Terry Fabrics.
I, WILLIAM MYERS, of 334, Bridgman Street, Bolton in the County of 1
Lancaster, Teacher of Weaving, do hereby declare the nature of this invention,
and in what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly described
and ascertained in and by the following statement: —
My invention is designed for the economical production of fabrics known
as figured reversible terries in which two or more colours are being used simul- 1
taneously and it is equally applicable to the manufacture of 3, 4, 5, 6 or other
picked terries.
Now by the usual system of weaving such fabrics, one hook and one needle
of an ordinary jacquard machine are required for each pile warp thread, and
one jacquard card for each pick of weft but by my invention considerable 2
economy is effected by causing one needle to control two warp pile threads or
sets of threads and one jacquard or other card to control one complete terry
weave whether it be 3, 4, 5, or 6 picks to the round.
Therefore if a 200 needle machine of my invention uses one card for every 3,
4, 5 or 6 picks inserted, then by the ordinary methods, two machines of equal
needle capacity and each using one card for every pick inserted would be
required. Thus for a design of a given size in a three picked terry fabric I
employ one jacquard card instead of six jacquard cards as now, also in a five
picked terry fabric I employ one jacquard card instead of ten as by the ordinary
inethods of weaving these fabrics, and economies will be effected in other numbers:
to the round of the terry to a similar extent.
A further important economy is effected in designing, for by using my inven-
tion the figures of the design only require to be painted in solid on the design
paper whereas by the ordinary methods of designing for these fabrics, two
designs must be made, in one of which the full working of each thread of the 3
pile warp for every pick of weft must be clearly shown.
In carrying out my invention I employ a machine in which each needle
operates four hooks, two of the said hooks being made to govern a warp thread
or set of threads of one colour and the two remaining hooks to govern a
differently coloured warp thread or set of threads.
The griffes of my machine are so arranged that they can be operated by cams
affixed to the loom in any convenient position, the cams being so constructed as
to lift the griffes (in accordance with the requirements of the weave) which is
always in opposition one to the other.
It is well known that in figured reversible terries, the pile warp from the
upper surface is down to bind on the same pick of weft, that the pile warp from
the lower surface is up to bind.
Now by my invention a hole in any pattern card will cause one colour of warp
to make pile on the top and the same hole will cause the other colour of warp
4

page_text: to make pile on the underside, whilst a blank in a card will cause the colour
which was previously on the top to make pile on the lower side and that which
was below to make pile on the top.
My invention may also be applied to dobbies or heald operating mechanism,
each needle controlling two healds and four hooks by connecting two hooks
to a heald, one hook being worked by one griffe and the other hook by the other
griffe, the griffes being worked by cams so that each card controls a complete
terry weave.
In the accompanying sketches Fig. 1 shows a cross section of my improve-
ments as applied to a jacquard machine; and L M and NO are sections of two
of the fabrics which it is capable of making.
Griffes aa are fixed in one framework and griffes bb in another framework
and separate cams of suitable forms are used to operate them in such a way
that when an are up bb are down, and when bb are up aa are down, and by
this means effects are produced in the fabric similar to those illustrated at L M
or NO. Upon examination of the sketch of the machine Fig. 1 it will be seen
that if a blank in a card on the cylinder c is pressed against needle n' it will
push the hooks h' and ht out of, and hooks h² h³ in, the paths of their respective
griffes. Now each card remains against the needles for three picks, and by
the action of the cams, griffes a will rise on picks 1 and (see section of cloth)
and griffes bb on pick 2, the card being changed after the third pick, griffes a a
being brought down between picks 3 and 1 to allow of a change in the pattern
where necessary.
Taking for the purpose of illustration sections L and M, it will be seen that
with a blank opposite ngriffe a will lift the warp thread won picks 1 and 3
and griffe will lift warp thread on pick thus making thread weave
terry on the upper surface, and thread r on the lower surface as shewn at the
left hand end of section M, but if a hole occurs opposite n', the griffe a will lift
the thread on picks 1 and 3 and griffe b will lift thread on pick 2, and
cause the threads to change sides in the terry weave as shown also in section M
on the right hand end thereof. Other numbers of picks to the round can be
made by using other cams arranged for the required number of picks to the
round, but a 3 pick is selected as being the one mostly used. The sections N, O
show an alternative method of operating the griffes, a blank opposite ¹ on
griffe aa (Fig. 1) raising warp thread on picks 1 and 2 and griffe bb raising
warp thread on pick 3 thus making thread wo (see section NO), weave terry
on the upper surface (see left hand end of those sections) until by a change of
card a hole occurs opposite n' and the threads and change sides as before
explained and as seen at the right hand end of these sections N, O.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is:-
The combination of needles, hooks, and griffes in such a way that one needle
controls two threads or sets of threads as and for the purpose herein before
described.
Dated the own
1000
GEO. DAVIES & SON,
Agents for the Applicant, 4, St. Ann's Square, Manchester.