An Improved System and Charts or Templates for Measuring and Drafting Patterns for Ladies' and Children's Garments.
Year: 1893

page_text: Date of Application, 11th Feb., 1893-Accepted, 25th Mar., 1893
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
An Improved System and Charts or Templates for Measuring and
Drafting Patterns for Ladies' and Children's Garments.
We SARAH HILL and MARTHA ALICE HILL both of 168 Deansgate
Manchester in the County of Lancaster Teachers of Dress Cutting, and Making,
do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to
be performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:
This invention relates to improved charts or templates and scales to be used for
measuring and drafting patterns for the bodices and skirts of garments for ladies
and children and to novel and simple system or method of using such improved
charts of scales for such purposes, the objects of the invention being to simplify
such charts or scales and their use so as to facilitate the drafting and cutting
of garment patterns by persons not previously specially trained for that purpose.
The nature of our said invention and the manner in which the same is to be
performed or carried into practical effect will be readily understood on reference to
the drawings hereunto annexed and the following explanation thereof..
For the purposes of our invention we make use of two charts or templates of
special forms.
Fig. 1 on the drawings representing (drawn to about two thirds scale) the chart
or template employed for drafting the bodice and skirt and Fig. 2 the back view of
the same.
Fig. 3 is the chart or template for drafting the top of front armhole and front
neck sleeves, and collar, and Fig. 4 is the back view of the saine.
The Figs. 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, and 13 illustrate on a reduced scale the
methods of using the charts for making the draftings. Both of these charts are of
a peculiar novel form not heretofore employed for such purposes and they are
provided with specially arranged scales for the different measurements and with
certain arrows, figures and letters hereinafter specially referred to, the first chart
or template being also provided with two perforations. There are no slots on the
charts or templates as hitherto employed, & the improved method or system of
using the same is as follows:-
For drafting the back of the bodice (Fig. 5) lay the chart or template Fig. 1
on the paper or lining and first using the inch scale at the lower edge make dot 1
at the point of the arrow A, dot 2 at the back length (say) 16 inches, dot 3 at the
arrow B and dot 4 at the back arm hole (size 17) and the line 5 at the top edge of
the chart.
Place the corner 2 (at bottom of right hand of the chart) on dot 2 and make
dot 6 at the arrow C and dot 7 at the waist size (say 22 inches).
Make dot 8 six inches below dot 2, place the arrow H on the dot 8, and
make dot 9 at the hip measure (say 42 inches) draw a line 10 from dot.8 to
dot 6, a line 11 from dot 6 to dot 1, and a line 12 from dot 9 to dot 7.. Place
the corner 4 of the chart on dot 1, with the neck measure (say 12) on the
line 5, and draw a line 13 from dot 1 to line 5. Then place the corner 1 of
the chart at the end of line 13 with the edge of the chart touching dot 3 and
draw a line 14 the length of the shoulder (say 5 inches).
Now place the corner 1 on line 11 with the edge of the chart on dot 4, make
a dot 4, at the back bust measure (say 5 inches) and draw the bust line from
dot 4 to the arrow L. Place the arrow F at the end of the line 14 with the
Place the
curved edge on the dot 4" and draw line 15 from line 14 to dot 4*.

page_text: arrow G on the dot-4 with the curved edge on the dot 7 and draw a line 16
from the dot 4* to the dot 7. Then place the corner 1 of the chart on dot 2
and draw the waist line from the dot 2 to the arrow L.
N.B. For ladies with high shoulders and also for stout figures the dot 3 should be
raised half an inch. -
up
For drafting the second side quarter of the bodice (Fig. 6.) place the corner 1
of the chart on the dot 4" with the top edge of the chart on the bust line. Make
dot one and a half inches below dot 4" and dot 2 at the waist line. Place corner
on dot 1 with the top edge of the chart on dot 4ª and make dot 3 at the side bust
measure (say 36).
Place the arrow J on dot with the chart straight with the waist line, make
dot 4 at size 22 (waist measures No. 1) and dot 5 at size 22 (waist measures
No. 2).
Make dot 6 six inches below dot 2. Now place the corner 2 on dot 6.
Make dot 7 at the arrow C, and dot 8 at the hip measure (say 42) and draw a
line 9 from dot 7 to dot 4. Place arrow E' on dot 5 & draw line 10 from dot 5
to dot 6.
Place
Next place the arrow E' on dot 5 and draw a curved line 11 to dot 3.
the arrow G on dot 3 with the corner of the chart on the bust line and draw a
line 12 from dot 3 to the bust line. The arrow G must touch the bust line nearer
the back than the dot 3. Place the arrow F at the top of the line 12 with the
curved edge of the chart on the dot 4 and draw a line 13 from the line 12 to the
dot 4.
For drafting the front Fig. 7, and first side quarter (Fig. 8) use the back of the
chart Fig. 2 draw lines A and B along the top edge B and long edge of the chart.
Make dot 1 at the neck arrow No. 2 dot 2 at the front length (say 16 inches)
dot 3. at the arrow A' and dot 4 at the front arm-hole (say size 17).
To draft the neck (Fig. 7) use the back of the curved chart (Fig. 4) place the
neck arrow on dot 1 with the neck size (say 12) on the line a and draw line 5 from
the neck size to the arrow B.
Place the corner 5 (chart Fig. 2) at the end of the line 5 with the edge of the
chart on the dot 3, and draw a line 6 half an inch less than the length of the
shoulder (say 4 inches). Place the corner 5 of the chart on the line B with
the long edge of the chart on the dot 4 and draw a line 7 to the bust measure
(say 36). Lengthen this line two inches and make dot 8 at a quarter of an inch
from the end of the bust line 7 dot 9 two and a half inches from the end, and dot 10,
two inches from dot 9..
2
Place the corner 7 on the dot 10 with the top edge of the chart straight with the
bust line, make dot 11, half an inch below dot 10, and dot 12 at the under arm
measure, (say 8 inches).
Place the corner 5 on the dot 2 with the long edge of the chart on dot 12, and
draw the waist line 13 from dot 2 to dot 12. Make dot 14 at the waist measure
(say 22) and dot 15 half an inch from dot 12.
The distance between dots 14 and 15 gives the amount to be taken in "darts
(say 3 inches).
و"
Make dot 16 on the waist line one and a half inches from dot 2, dot 17 one and
a half inches from dot 16 being half the amount taken in "darts" and centre
dot 18 between dots 16 and 17. These dots compose the first "dart."
Now make dot 19 one inch from dot 17, dot 20 one and a half inches from dot 19,
and the centre dot 21, between dots 19 and 20. These dots compose the second
"dart." Place the long edge of the chart on the centre dot 18 with edge B straight
with the bust line and make dot 22 through the perforation No. 1. Place the
chart in the same manner on dot 21 and make dot 23, through the perforation
No. 2.
Now turn over the chart (Fig. 1) place the arrow El on the dot 16 and
draw a curved line 24 to dot 22. Turn over the chart again (Fig. 2) place the
arrow E on dot 17 and draw a curved line 25 to dot 22. Place the arrow Elon

page_text: dot 19 and draw a curved line 26 to dot 23, Place the arrow E' on dot 20 and
draw a curved line 27 to dot 23, and draw a line 28 from dot 15 to dot 11. .
f
The curved chart (Fig. 3) is used for drawing the arm hole. Place the arrow
marked "Medium" on dot 11 with the arm hole curve at the end of the line 6 and
draw a line 29 from dot 11 to line 6. Make a dot 30, six inches below dot 2
dot 31 half an inch nearer the edge of the paper, draw a line 32 from dot 31 to
dot 2. Make dot 33 one inch from dot 30, dot 34 one inch from dot 33, draw a
line 35 from dot 33 to dot 16 and a line 36 from dot 34 to dot 17. This completes
the first "dart."
Now make dot 37 one and a half inches from dot 34, dot 38 one inch from
dot 37, draw a line 39 from dot 37 to dot 19, and a line 40 from dot 38 to dot 20.
This completes the second "dart."
The distance between the dots 33 and 34, 37 and 38 is half an inch less than that
between dots 16 and 17, & 19 20.
Place the arrow R (Fig. 2) on dot
make dot 41 at the hip measure 42.
12 with the edge of the chart on dot 10 and
Turn the chart round, place the arrow D on
dot 15 and draw the curved line 42 to dot 41.
Make dot 43 on the line B two inches above the dot 2. dot 4 two inches below
the bust line-dot 45 one and a half inches above the bust line and dot 46 half an
inch out from the dot 44.
Place the arrow E¹ (Fig. 1) on dot 43 and draw the curved line to dot 46,
continue this line to dot 45-then place the arrow E on dot 45 and finish the line 47
to line 5.
Place corner 2 (Fig. 1) at the end of line 7 and make dot 48 at the under-arm
measure (say 8 inches), then place the corner 2 on the dot 48 with the edge of the
chart on dot 15 and make dot 49 two inches from dot 48.
Turn over the chart and place the arrow Q (Fig. 2) on dot 48 with the curved
edge of the chart on dot 8 and draw the line 50 from dot 48 along the curved edge
to 9 inches.
This line is always drawn the same length as line 11 in the second side quarter. :
Make dot 51 half an inch below dot 9 and draw a line 52 from dot 49 to
dot 51.
Place the corner 8 on the top of line 50 and draw the line 53 from line 50 to the
top of line 52.
Place the arrow W on the dot 49 and make dot 54 at the hip measure (say 42).
Place the arrow R on the dot 48 and make dot 55 at the hip measure 42.
Next place the arrow D on dot 48 and draw the curved line 56 to dot 55. Turn
over the chart (Fig. 1) and place the arrow B on dot 49 and draw the line 57 to
dot 54.
Notes: The neck arrow No. 1 (Fig. 2) is only to be used for children. The
neck arrow No. 2 is for medium sized necks, and the neck arrow No. 3 for sizes
over twelve inches.
For ladies with low shoulders dot 3 is to be made half an inch lower. For bust
sizes over 38 dot 9 must be made three inches from the end of line 7, and dot 49 two
and a half inches from dot 48.
For sizes over 42 make dot 9 three and a half inches from the end of line 7, and
dot 49 three inches from dot 48. For very large figures make dot 9 four inches
from the end of line 7 and dot 49 three and a half inches from dot 48.
""
For large bodices make dot 16 two inches from dot 2 and dot 31 one inch nearer
the edge of the paper from dot 30. The "darts must be made V-shape below the
waist, place the chart on dots 22 and 18, make a dot six inches below dot 18.
draw lines from the dot last made to dots 16 and 17.
Now
Place the chart in the same manner on dots 23 and 21 make a dot six inches
below 21 and draw lines from the dot last made to dots 19 and 20.
.
'
When dot 9 is made three inches from the end of line 7 the arrow N (Fig. 2)
must be placed on dot 2 instead of the end of the chart in drawing the waist line...

page_text: When dot 9 is made three and a half inches from the end of line 7 the arrow O
must be placed on dot 2 in drawing the waist line.
For large bodices use the arrow marked "Large," (Fig. 3) in drawing the
armhole.
For drafting the sleeve (Fig. 9) make dot.1 at corner 1 (Fig. 1) dot 2 at the
arrow 1, dot 3 at length of the sleeve from shoulder to elbow (say 12 inches),
dot 4 at arrow 2 and dot 5 one inch outwards from dot 1. Place the corner 1 on
dot 2 with the top edge of the chart on dot 1 and make dot 6 at the armhole sizes
for sleeve (say 17). Turn over the chart Fig. 2. and place corner 6 on dot 3 with
the curved edge of the chart on dot 5 and draw a line 7 from dot 3 to dot 5.
and
Turn over the chart again and place corner 1 (Fig. 1) on dot 3 with the arrow F
on the line 7, draw the elbow line 8 from the elbow measure 11, to corner
make dot 9 at the arrow Y.
Now turn over the chart and place the arrow P (Fig. 2) on dot 3 with the
arrow S on the line 8 draw a line 10 from the arrow P to corner 7. line 11 from
wrist measure 8 to corner 7, and make dot 12 at arrow Z.
Draw straight line 13 from dot 12 to dot 9.
Place the arrow D' at the end of the line 11, and draw a curved line 14 to the end
of line 8. Place the arrow D at the end of line 8 and continue the line 14 to
dot 6.
Now place corner 8 on dot 6 and draw a curved line 15 to dot 4.
Place the arrow 1 Fig. 1 on dot 1 and make dot 16 at the arrow 3.
In drawing the top of the sleeves use the curved chart (Fig. 4) place the arrow A
on dot 5 and draw a curved line 17 to dot 16.
Turn the chart round and place the arrow B on dot 16 and continue the curved
line 17 to dot 6.
Place corner 6 of chart (Fig. 2) on dot 9 and draw a line 18 from dot 9 to
dot 4.
Notes: For children's sleeves make dot 2 half an inch above the arrow 1 (Fig. 1)
and draw a line from dot 3 to dot 1, dot 5 is omitted in a child's sleeve and dot 16
made an inch lower.
For a large sleeve over 18 armhole make dot 2 half an inch below the arrow 1
and dot 16 must be raised half an inch.
For drafting the collar (Fig. 10) use the curved chart (Fig. 3) place the edge A
Make
in double fold of paper and draw a line 1 to the neck measure (say 12).
dot 2 two inches above line 1 on the double fold, place collar line on dot 2 straight
with the double fold, and draw a line 3 from neck size (say 12) to dot 2.
draw line 4 to join lines 1 and 3.
Then
f.
For drafting front of skirt (Fig. 11.) draw the waist line along the paper or lining
make dot 1 at seven inches on the waist line, dot 2 three quarters of an inch below
the waist line, and draw a line 3 from dot 2 to the end of the waist line, dot 4 two
inches from dot 2, dot 5 one and a half inches from dot 4, centre dot 6 between
dots 4 and 5, dot 7 five inches below dot 6, and draw lines for the "dart" from
dot 7 to dots 5 and 4.
Place the arrow D¹ (Fig. 2) on dot 1 with the
and draw a line 7" from dot 1 to the arrow S.
"
"skirt arrow on the waist line
Make dot 8 at the front length of the double fold (say) 38 inches below dot 2,
dot 9 for bottom of skirt, thirteen inches from dot 8 continue line 7", squaring by
dot 9 to the side length (say) 38 inches, and draw a line 10 from the end of line 7,
to dot 8.
For the side gore (Fig. 12) draw the waist line seven inches and make dot 1 one
inch from the end of the waist line. Make dot 2 in the centre of the waist line,
dots 3 and 4 half an inch on each side of dot 2, dot 5 four inches below dot 2, and
draw lines for the "dart" from dot 5 to dots 3 and 4.
Place the arrow S (Fig. 2) on dot 1 with the arrow D on the selvedge of the
lining, and draw a line 6, from the arrow S to the arrow D.
.

page_text: Make dot 7 for side length (say) 38 inches below dot 1 dot 8 for the width at
the bottom (say) 12 inches from dot 7. Now draw a line 9 from the end of the
waist line squaring by dot 8 to the side length (38 inches) and line 10 from the end
of line 9 to dot 7.
For drafting back of skirt (Fig. 13) draw the waist line nine inches along the top
of the lining. Make dot 1 half an inch down, draw a line 2 from dot I to the end
of the waist line. Make dot 3 on the selvedge the side length (38 inches) below
dot 1, dot 4 thirty inches wide from dot 3 and draw a line 5 from the end of the
waist line squaring by dot 4 to the back length (say 39 inches) and line 6 from the
end of line 5 to dot 3 and gather or pleat the waist line to fit the waist.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what wo
claim is :-
The peculiar improved construction and arrangement of the charts or templates
and scales and the novel method or system of employing the same for measuring
and drafting patterns for the bodices and skirts of garments for ladies and children
substantially as hereinbefore described and illustrated by the drawings annexed.
Dated this 9th day of February 1893.
GEO. DAVIES & SON,
4, St. Ann's Square, Manchester, Agents for the Applicants.