Improvements in Hem Stitching Machines.
Year: 1896

page_text: Date of Application, 6th Aug., 1896
Complete Specification Left, 28th Apr., 1897-Accepted, 5th June, 1897
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Hem Stitching Machines.
I, JOHN FORBES of The Square Moy in the County of Tyrone in Ireland,
Handkerchief Manufacturer do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as
follows:
My invention relates to sewing machines employed for the production of the French
vein or hem stitch in which the needle bar bas a right and left motion in addition to
the usual reciprocating motion vertically and consists in the use of a perpendicular bar
parallel to the needle bar of such machine, and engaged by the needle bar or the needle
arm if any so as to move vertically and simultaneously with the needle bar, but having
no other motion. Upon the lower end of this perpendicular bar I arrange a stiletto or
pricker which I provide with a laterally projecting sheath to receive the point of the
needle, and which descends along with the needle at every stitch in the same line of
stitches and apart from the needle when the latter is making the second line of
stitches thereby enlarging and keeping enlarged the opening in the cloth, and pro-
ducing an improved hem stitch where the threads are not withdrawn.
The perpendicular bar or the stiletto may be removed when the machine is to be
employed for ordinary hemstitching.
Dated this 5th dose of human 1806
JOHN FORBES,
The Square, Moy, Co. Tyrone.
Improvements in Hem Stitching Machines.
I, JOHN FORBES of The Square, Moy, in the County of Tyrone, in Ireland,
Handkerchief Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in
what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascer-
tained in and by the following statement:-
My invention relates to sewing machines employed for the production of the
French vein or hem stitch in which the needle bar has a right and left motion in
addition to the usual reciprocating motion vertically, and consists in the use of a
perpendicular bar parallel to the needle bar of such machine and engaged by the
needle bar or needle arm, if any, so as to move vertically, and simultaneously with
the needle bar, but having no other motion.
Upon the lower end of this perpendicular bar I arrange a stiletto or pricker
which I provide with a laterally projecting sheath to receive the point of the needle
somewhat resembling the pricker described in the Specifications lodged in the British
Patent Office by Frederick Gegauf and another No. 18568 of 1893 and which stiletto
or pricker descends along with the needle at every stitch in the same line of stitches
and apart from the needle when the latter is making the second line of stitches,
thereby enlarging and keeping enlarged the opening in the cloth and producing an
improved hem stitch where the threads are not withdrawn.

page_text: The perpendicular bar or the stiletto may be removed when the machine is to be
employed for ordinary hem stitching.
And in order that my said invention may be more fully understood I shall now
proceed to refer to the drawings on the sheet hereunto annexed, the same letters
of reference indicating the same or corresponding parts of the machine throughout
all the figures on the sheet.
Fig. I. is a front elevation of parts of a hem stitching machine and shews portions
of the arms and bed plate and of the connecting rod for giving lateral movements
to the needle bar; also the carriage through which such movements are ordinarily
effected; the presser bar and foot; the rotary hook partly in dotted lines and portions
of the mechanism for actuating such hook and the feed dog; the needle bar and
the perpendicular bar parallel to it, arranged with a stiletto or pricker at the lower
end and fitted with an adjustable boss having a slotted tongue which engages with
a slot in a boss fitted on the needle bar and also with the needle bar and a plate
screwed to the arm of the machine and having bearings for the perpendicular bar to
work in.
Fig. II is an end elevation of some of the parts of a hem stitching machine shewn
in Fig. 1.
Fig. III is a top view of the adjustable boss on the perpendicular bar parallel
to the needle bar.
.
Fig. IV is a top view of some of the parts shewn in Figs. I and II, and
Fig. V is a front view of the stiletto or pricker.
a is the arm of the machine; is the bed plate; c is the connecting rod through
which the lateral motions are imparted to the needle bar in the ordinary way; d is
the carriage through which such lateral motions are ordinarily effected; e is a
portion of the needle arm; f is the presser bar; g is the presser foot; his the
rotary hook; i is the needle bar; is the perpendicular bar parallel to, i, the needle
bar, arranged with a stiletto or pricker, 1, at the lower end and fitted with an
adjustable boss, m, having a slotted tongue, n, which engages with a slot in a
boss, o, fitted on the needle bar, i, by which means the needle bar and the per-
pendicular bar parallel to it are raised and lowered simultaneously. The slotted
tongue, n, also engages with the needle bar, i, which prevents any twisting or
oscillating motion of the perpendicular bar k, while the slot in the tongue permits
of the lateral movements of the needle bar independently; p, is the plate screwed
to the arm, a, of the machine, and having bearings, q, for the perpendicular bar, k,
to work in.
I also apply my invention to a Wheeler and Wilson hem-stitching machine known
as "The D. 12" (in which the needle bar has a lateral as well as a vertical motion) by
providing bearings for the perpendicular bar, and attaching them to the face of the
machine above and below the removeable cap covering it and adjacent to the needle
bar and so as to carry such perpendicular bar preferably inside the cap, and by similar
means it may be applied to other machines of the type above referred to. But where
the eye of the needle is at right angles to the line of the stitching an additional lateral
movement must be given to the needle bar when the needle and stiletto or pricker
have entered the cloth together in order that the sewing thread may pass freely
between them.
The action of the mechanism I have described is as follows:-The stiletto or pricker
is adjusted in relation to the needle so that the point of the needle is enclosed by the
sheath of the stiletto or pricker in each of the two stitches which enter the single ply
of the cloth for the production of the hem-stitch. In the third stitch the needle is
withdrawn from the stiletto or pricker by the ordinary lateral movement of the needle
bar and passes into the hem of the cloth alone, while the stiletto or pricker descends
and by itself passes through the hole last previously made in conjunction with the
needle, thereby tending to keep such hole open until secured by the sewing threads
being tightened by the machine.
Having now fully described and ascertained the nature of my said invention, and

page_text: in what manner the same is to be performed, I would have it to be understood
that I do not claim as of my invention or the exclusive use of a perpendicular bar
with a stiletto or pricker, adjustable tongued or slotted bosses, or a plate having
bearings for the perpendicular bar, except when the same are constructed and employed
in the manner and for the purposes hereinbefore described, nor do I claim bed plates,
connecting rods, needle bars or arms, presser bars, or feet, rotary hooks, stilettos or
prickers, or any of the other separate mechanical parts of a hem-stitching machine,
but I declare that in sewing machines arranged for the production of the French vein
or hem stitch without drawing the threads of the fabric, and in which the needle has
lateral as well as vertical motions I claim
1. The use of a perpendicular bar moving in a vertical direction only parallel to
and simultaneously with the needle bar, and arranged with a stiletto or pricker,
substantially in the manner and for the purposes hereinbefore described and shewn in
the drawings hereunto annexed.
2. The use of the tongued boss, m, and slotted boss, o, constructed and employed
substantially in the manner and for the purposes hereinbefore described and shewn in
the drawings hereunto annexed.
3. The combination and arrangement of parts constituting my improved hem-
stitching appliances constructed and employed substantially in the manner and for the
purposes hereinbefore described and illustrated by the drawings hereunto annexed.
JOHN
FORBES,
The Square, Moy, Co. Tyrone.