IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FELT HATS
Year: 1883

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Charles Vero and James Everitt both of Atherstone in
the County of Warwick Felt Hat Manufacturers for an Invention of
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FELT HATS
"
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Charles Vero and James
Everitt at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 25th January
1883.
CHARLES VERO and JAMES EVERITT both of Atherstone in the County of
Warwick Felt Hat Manufacturers "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF
FELT HATS."
Our invention has for its object improvements in the manufacture of the smooth
faced napless felt bodies used for soft flexible and hard hats. Many years ago we
attempted to manufacture bodies for such hats mainly of wool but with a surface
of fur or finer material and a patent was granted to us for this manufacture
N° 1668 in the year 1857.
Our process then was as follows.
A batt of Wool was first prepared according
to the old hand process by bowing out the wool on a flat surface compressing and
trimming it into shape.
The batt was then folded to a conical form and its two edges brought together
and joined. A separator or inlayer consisting of a piece of cotton fabric was laid
in to keep the two thicknesses of Wool separate. Another quite similar batt of
wool was then folded around the first and joinded on the opposite side. then by a
process of steaming and working with the bands known as "basining " the double
woollen batt was partially consolidated.
The next operation consisted in preparing in like manner a batt of fur or fine
material; this was then laid around the partially consolidated woolen batt and
hand manipulation was continued until the whole was united.
The hat body was then completed in the usual manner.
This process did not prove a success as there was great difficulty in preventing
injury to the fine batt; in the operation creases and folds were liable to be formed
and in some cases the coarser material would in places be exposed.

page_text: When by very careful manipulation these difficulties were surmounted the
process was more costly than to manufacture a body entirely of the finer material.
Some years later an attempt was made by one of us to attain the same end by
another method and a Patent was granted N° 2851 in the year 1864
Of this process it is sufficient to say that it entirely failed the reason being that 5
the fur did not remain where it was placed on the surface of the wool but
permeated the whole as if the two qualities of fibre had been originally mixed.
According to our present invention we prepare a woollen (or mixed) hat body in
what is now the usual manner by winding and accumulating the sliver of a carding
machine upou a conical form.
The conical batt so obtained we place as usual between two conical surfaces an
outer and inner and by a slight movement imparted to these surfaces together
with the application of steam to the fibre the woollen batt is well hardened.
There are other known processes by which this hardened body may be produced.
The next operation is the preparation of the finer batt which is best done by
blowing fur (or a mixture) against a perforated conical form from which the air is
When the fur has accumulated on the form to a
drawn by means of a fan.
sufficient thickness it is whilst still dry stript from the form and to facilitate the
removal the batt of fur is divided up one side. It is laid out flat a hardening skin
is spread over and it is rubbed and pressed until it is in a condition to be safely
handled. It is then cropped to the required form.
The woollen body previously prepared is now laid flat and an inlayer or a piece
of cotton fabric is placed within it to serve as a separator. The batt of fur is then
wrapt around the woollen body and the whole is subjected to the operation of a
machine known as a "flat hardener" in which the body with the exception of
the doubled edges is held and pressed between two flat surfaces to which a slight
oscillatory movement is imparted. This aided by heat and moisture causes the
consolidation and hardening of the material between the surfaces and a satisfactory
union of the finer surface material with the original body is brought about.
The work is turned about from time to time or as it is termed "crosed" as is
usual when employing the flat hardener.
By like means fur or finer material is at a subsequent operation applied to the
underside of the brim. The hat body is then planked felted and shrunk to tho
size desired and it is subsequently proofed dyed and finished. as heretofore.
Hats thus constructed are equal in appearance to hats made entirely of fur
and have the strength of a wool hat and are more easily as well as more cheaply
manufactured,
1

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed
by the said Charles Vero and James Everitt in the Great Seal Patent Office
on the 24th July 1883.
CHARLES VERO and JAMES EVERITT both of Atherstone in the County of
Warwick Felt Hat Manufacturers. "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTUre of
FELT HATS"
Our Invention has for its object improvements in the manufacture of the smooth
faced nappless felt bodies used for soft, flexible and hard hats.
Many years ago we attempted to manufacture bodies for such hats mainly of
wool but with a surface of fur or finer material, and a Patent was granted to us
for this manufacture N° 1668 in the year 1857.
Our process then was as follows:-a batt of wool was first prepared according
to the old hand process by bowing out the wool on a flat surface, compressing and
trimming it into shape.
The batt was then folded to a conical form and its two edges brought together
and joined. A separator or inlayor consisting of a piece of cotton fabric was laid
in to keep the two thicknesses of wool separate.
Another quite similar batt of wool was then folded around the first and joined
on the opposite side.
Then by a process of steaming and working with the hands known as
basining" the double woollen batt was partially consolidated.
The next operation consisted in preparing in like manner a batt of fur or fine
material, this was then laid around the partially consolidated woollen batt and hand
manipulation was continued until the whole was united.
The hat body was then completed in the usual manner.
.
This process did not prove a success as there was great difficulty in preventing
injury to the fine batt, in the operation creases and folds were liable to be formed
and in some cases the coarser material would in places be exposed.
When by very careful manipulation these difficulties were surmounted the
process was more costly than to manufacture a body entirely of the finer material.
Some years later an attempt was made by one of us to attain the same end by
another method and a Patent was granted N° 2851 in the year 1864.
Of this process it is sufficient to say that it entirely failed the reason being that
the fur did not remain where it was placed on the surface of the wool but
permeated the whole as if the two qualities of fibre had been originally mixed.
According to our present invention we prepare a woollen (or mixed) hat body in
what is now the usual manner by winding and accumulating the sliver of a carding
machine upon a conical form.
The conical batt so obtained we place as usual between two conical surfaces an
outer and an inner and by a slight movement imparted to these surfaces together)
with the application of steam to the fibre, the woollen batt is well hardened.
There are other known processes by which this hardened body may be produced.
The next operation is the preparation of the finer batt which is best done by
blowing fur (or a mixture) against a perforated conical form from which the air is
drawn by means of a fan. When the fur has accumulated on the form to a
sufficient thickness it is whilst still dry stripped from the form and to facilitate,
the removal the batt of fur is divided up one side. It is laid out flat a hardening
skin is spread over and it is rubbed and pressed until it is in a condition to be.
safely handled. It is then cropped to the required form.
The woollen body previously prepared is now laid flat and
of cotton fabric is placed within it to serve as a separator.
an inlayer or a piece
The batt of fur is

page_text: then wrapped around the woollen body and the whole is subjected to the operation
of a machine known as a "flat hardener " in which the body with the exception of
the doubled edges is held and pressed between two flat surfaces to which a slight
oscillatory movement is imparted. This aided by heat and moisture causes the
consolidation and hardening of the material between the surfaces and a
satisfory [sic] union of the finer surface material with the original body is brought
about.
The work is turned about from time to time or as it is termed "crosed
usual when employing the flat hardener.
"
as is
By like means fur or finer material is at a subsequent operation applied to the
under side of the brim. The hat body is then planked felted and shrunk to the
size desired and it is subsequently proofed dyed and finished as heretofore.
Hats thus constructed are equal in appearance to hats made entirely of fur and
have the strength of a wool hat and are more easily as well as more cheaply
manufactured.
In order that our invention may be practiced to the fullest advantage we would
further state that the material best suited for making the body is short lambs wool
or fine noil. Mixed hair and wool may also be used for the body and in this case
it is preferable to blow the mixed materials on to the "fur former" and to harden
in the usual way by steam process. In either case we harden the body fully
before the fur is applied by means of the "flat hardener." We may use in this
and the subsequent operations the machine known as Froggatts flat hardener."
The inlayer employed in the use of the flat hardener should be of American cloth,
this fabric being impermeable leaves a smooth and even surface upon the body for
the reception of the fur. After this hardening it is advisable to singe the surface
which is to receive the fur in order to remove projecting fibres and knots which
might otherwise appear through the fur in the finished hat. In the preparation of
the fur batt which is to serve as a cover to the body we prefer to employ short fur
and a considerable proportion of it may with advantage be very short or shoddy
fur as this quality is both cheaper and produces a better and denser face.
When the fur batts are stripped from the cone on to which the fur is blown as
already described we accumulate the batts six or eight in a pile separated by
hardening skins or it may be sheets of paper and manipulate them by hand until
they are sufficiently firm to be cropped to shape and put on to the body.
Another very convenient method for use especially when only short fur is
employed, is to place the hardened woollen body upon the fur former and blow the
fur upon it. The body should fit the cone of the fur former closely. When the
accumulation of fur upon the body has attained the desired thickness the exhaustion
of air from the cone is continued whilst flannel cloths are wrapped around the
body and fur and a perforated tin cover or outer cone is placed on over the whole.
But for these precautions the fur would be liable to be displaced as soon as the air
suction ceased. The two cones are then removed together from the machine with
the work between them and they are dipped into hot water. When the body is
thoroughly saturated the wrapping cloths are removed and the body is taken from
the cone and placed in a well known machine termed a tip hardener whereby an
operation analogous to that of the flat hardener but carried on whilst the body is
supported on a cone the fur around the tip is combined with the woollen body
sufficiently to be able to bear the subsequent felting operations. This having
been done the work goes to the flat hardener in order that the fur on the covering
may be similarly combined with the woollen body over all the remainder of the 5
surface. The woollen body being in a wet state it will not be found necessary to
employ an inlayer.
In consolidating the fur upon the body by the use of the flat hardener care is
required (especially at the commencement of the operation) to avoid the formation
of ridges or welts. In the felting operation it is sometimes preferable to employ 5
water alone or but slightly acid, otherwise there may be a tendency for the fur to
felt too rapidly and unevenly, for the same reason it is sometimes better to use

page_text: "
carrotting." But the
ur which has not been prepared by the process known as
use of a considerable proportion of short or shoddy fur will of itself prevent any
difficulty from too rapid felting.
In many cases especially where a mixture of wool and for is used in the body,
it will not be necessary to apply fur to the under side of the brim.
The felting and finishing operations are conducted as is usual in making felt
hats from wool, for these hats having a woollen body, do not require the gentle
treatment necessary when fur alone is employed, and especially so when a large
proportion of the fur is short in staple.
Our invention renders the use of very short fur easy and even advantageous.
In the felting operation both the wool and the fur become thoroughly felted and
combined so as to form one solid napless felt. During felting the body contracts
largely, perhaps to half the size it had when leaving the flat hardener and a solid
felt is obtained. The fur nevertheless does not penetrate amongst the wool to any
injurious extent. The reason for this is that as already stated the woollen batt is
on the one hand fully hardened before the fur is placed upon it, but on the other
hand the woollen body is not previously felted and shrunk but the wool and fur
are felted and shrunk together without this no sufficient combination could be
obtained and a solid compound felt would not be produced. The state of the
woollen body when the fur is brought to it is an essential point. It is necessary
to observe this because, as we are aware attempts have been made to attach long
The fur is then
fur to woollen bodies which have already been felted and shrunk.
intended to appear as long loose hair or nap, each hair having its own surface
attachment to the body. Our Invention however does not apply to the manufacture
of napped hats but to napless bats in which the fur is completely felted in.
Having thus described the nature of our said Invention and the manner of
performing the same we would have it understood that we claim :—
First. The manufacture of felt hats substantially as herein described.
Second. The process of combining a fur cover with a hardened and unfelted
body of wool or mixed materials by placing the same together operating upon
them first with a flat hardener and afterwards felting them substantially as herein
described.
hand and seal
In witness whereof I the said Charles Vero have hereunto set
this fourth day of July in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred
and eighty three.