Employed in Embroidering Lace and other Fabrics.
Year: 1885

page_text: Employed in Embroidering Lace and other Fabrics.
We, HENBY SMITH CROPPER, Engineer, and WILLIAM BIRKS, Lace Manufacturer,
both of the Town and County of the Town of Nottingham do hereby declare
the nature of said invention. for IMPROVEMENTS IN OR APPLICABLE TO MACHINERY
OR APPARATUS EMPLOYED IN EMBROIDERING LACE AND OTHER FABRICS to be as
follows:-
Our invention consists in the application of Jacquard Machinery or other
equivalent pattern producing or regulating apparatus to machinery or apparatus
employed in embroidering lace and other fabrics.
In embroidering machines as heretofore used the patterns are produced on lace
and other fabrics by the aid of a well known instrument called a pantagraph
which is connected to the frame carrying the lace or other fabric to be embroidered
and which moves such frame about in the required directions to enable the
embroidery needles to produce the desired pattern on the lace or other fabric.
This operation consists in moving the pantagraph handle or pointer by hand
from one part of the design to another for every stitch that is made, and this
movement requires to be made at one particular period of the motion of the
embroidery machine or damage is liable to result.
Now by our invention the movements required to be given to the frame for
embroidering the patterns are made mechanically by the Jacquard or other
equivalent machine instead of by hand as at present, thus effecting a saving in
labor, greater accuracy in the formation of a design and ensuring the correct
relative movements of the frame in relation to the embroidery needles thereby
obviating damage to the machine.
We will now proceed to describe one mode in which we carry our invention
into effect.
We place at one end of the embroidery machine (say the left hand end) a
Jacquard machine of a similar character to those employed in connection with
lace machines with this exception that we propose to use only one driving blade
although we do not confine ourselves to the use of one.
We employ four "slides " or " boxes " for "droppers" two for the vertical
movement of the frame carrying the lace or other fabric and the other two for the
lateral movement.

page_text: "
These "slides or "boxes" are each connected by a chain or band to the
moveable frame which carries the lace or other fabric to be embroidered.
This moveable frame is so balanced as to be easily moved by the Jacquard in
any direction which may be required to form the pattern.
One of the two "slides
"
"
or boxes" used for producing the vertical movement
of the frame acts to pull the said frame upwards and the other to pull it
downwards.
One of the two "slides" or "boxes" used for producing the lateral movement
of the frame moves the said frame to the right hand and the other moves it to
the left hand, the "slide" or "box" which effects the movement to the right hand
operates by means of a doubled ended lever in order that the motion towards the
left of the said " slide" or
"box" may be caused to produce the required motion.
of the frame towards the right.
We also according to our invention control the tension apparatus by the
Jacquard by which means we are able to regulate the tension of the needle
threads mechanically.
#}
This we effect by connecting a "slide" or "box" to the tension lever.
We also form the Jacquard cams with a gradual rise so that their action on the
driving blade or blades is very gentle thereby avoiding sudden shocks or blows
whilst in order to prevent any over running of the moveable frame we employ
a break in connection therewith, which break is acted upon at every movement
of the said frame.
For quick motion embroidery machines we use two driving blades in the
Jacquard each blade working alternately.
In some cases we use two driving blades and two sets of slides or boxes in the
Jacquard apparatus and move them simultaneously in opposite directions, that is
one blade driving to the right hand at the same time that the other is driving
to the left.
A modified arrangement of the foregoing apparatus may be applied to the
pantagraph, instead of to the moveable frame carrying the lace or other fabric
to be embroidered and which frame has hitherto been operated by the pantagraph.
In carrying our invention into effect two Jacquards' may be used, if desired, to
govern the moveable frame instead of one Jacquard as herein before described. In
this case one Jacquard would operate the lateral movements of the moveable frame
carrying the lace or other fabric to be embroidered and the second Jacquard would
operate the vertical movements of the said frame.
If desired instead of using the description of of Jacquard apparatus herein before
referred to, in carrying our invention into effect, other descriptions of Jacquard
machinery or other pattern producing or regulating apparatus may be employed,
the position and arrangement of the parts being suitably modified as may be
required.
'
The embroidery machine and the Jacquard or other pattern producing or
regulating apparatus are driven from the same shaft or are so connected together
as to ensure their working in correct relation with each other.

page_text: Employed in Embroidering Lace and other Fabrics.
We HENRY SMITH CROPPER, Engineer, and WILLIAM BIRKS, Lace Manufacturer,
both of the Town and County of the Town of Nottingham do hereby declare the
nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to
be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement,
reference being had to accompanying drawings and to the Figures and letters
marked thereon:-
Our invention consists in the application of Jacquard machinery or other
equivalent pattern producing or regulating apparatus to machinery or apparatus
employed in embroidering lace and other fabrics.
In embroidering machines as heretofore used the patterns are produced on lace
and other fabrics by the aid of a well known instrument called a pantagraph which
is connected to the frame carrying the lace or other fabric to be embroidered and
which moves such frame about in the required directions to enable the embroidery
needles to produce the desired pattern on the lace or other fabric. This operation
consists in moving the pantagraph handle or pointer by hand from one part of the
design to another for every stitch that is made, and this movement requires to be
made at one particular period of the motion of the embroidery machine or damage
liable to result.
Now by our invention the movements required to be given to the frame for
embroidering the patterns are made mechanically by the Jacquard or other
equivalent machine instead of by hand as at present, thus effecting a saving in
labour, greater accuracy in the formation of a design and ensuring the correct
relative movements of the frame in relation to the embroidery needles thereby
obviating damage to the machine.
We will now proceed to describe one mode in which we carry our invention into
effect.
Figure 1 is a diagram representing one mode in which we give the required
motions to the embroidery frame by Jacquard apparatus and Figures 2 and 3 are
respectively a front and an end elevation of parts showing a method of operating
the break apparatus of the embroidery frame by Jacquard apparatus.
We place at one end of the embroidery machine (say the left hand end) at A,
a Jacquard machine of a similar character to those employed in connection with
lace making machines for manipulating the threads so as to produce any desired
pattern in the lace with this exception, that we propose to use only one driving
blade a although we do not confine ourselves to the use of only one.
We employ
four "slides" or boxes" 6 for "droppers" c two for the vertical movement of the
frame B carrying the lace or other fabric to be embroidered and the other two for
the lateral movement.
«
Two of these "slides" or "boxes" b are each connected by a chain or band d to
the moveable frame B which carries the lace or other fabric to be embroidered to

page_text: produce the vertical motion of such frame B and the other two "slides" or
"boxes" b are connected to such frame B by chains or bands to produce the
lateral motion. This moveable frame B is so balanced as to be easily moved by
the Jacquard in any direction which may be required to form the pattern.
.
One of the two "slides" or "boxes" b used for producing the vertical movement
of the frame B acts to pull the said frame B upwards and the other to pull it
downwards.
One of the two "slides" or boxes b used for producing the lateral movement of
the frame B moves the said frame B to the right hand and the other moves it to
the left hand; the "slide" or "box" b which effects the movement to the right
hand operates by means of a double ended lever or by other suitable connections in
order that the motion towards the left of the said "slide" or "box" b may be
caused to produce the required motion of the frame B towards the right. Instead
however of using a double ended lever or other connections for causing the motion
of the "slide" or "box" in one direction to produce the contrary motion in the
frame B we may employ one "slide" or "box" b to move the frame B in one
direction and a weight or spring connected to the opposite end thereof to produce
the contrary motion.
"
We also according to our invention control the tension apparatus by the
Jacquard by which means we are able to regulate the tension of the needle threads
mechanically. This we effect by connecting a "slide" or "box" to the tension
lever (not shown) so as to move the tension lever in one direction whilst a spring
or weight effects the movement of such lever in the contrary direction. We also
form the Jacquard cams e see Figure 1; with a gradual rise so that their action on
the driving blade or blades a is very gentle thereby avoiding sudden shocks or
blows whilst in order to prevent any over-running of the moveable frame B we
employ as heretofore a break in connection therewith which break according to
our invention is acted upon at every movement of the said frame B by the
Jacquard.
One method in which we apply the break to the frame B by the Jacquard
machine is represented at Figures 2 and 3 in which represents a horizontal beamn
to which brackets f1f1 are fixed; these brackets carry a shaft g on which a lever gl
is fixed which is connected by a link or connecting rod g with the Jacquard
machine. On the shaft g are also fixed two cams h, h', the grooves of which act
upon the short arms of crank levers i¹ carried by a bracket j and having their
longer arms respectively connected by screws or other suitable adjustable means to
the upper and lower break springs k. k¹. The action of the break apparatus is as
follows; when the lever g¹ is pulled by the Jacquard, the cam shaft g and con-
sequently the cams h h' are partially rotated whereby the levers are moved in
opposite directions, thereby causing both the upper and lower breaks to be
simultaneously applied to the frame B and we so time the action of the parts that
the breaks shall be applied a trifle earlier than they are applied when working by
hand.
For quick motion embroidery machines we use two driving blades a in the
Jacquard, each blade working alternately.
In some cases we use two driving blades a in combination with two sets of
"slides" or "boxes" b in the Jacquard apparatus and move them simultaneously
in opposite directions, that is, one blade driving to the right hand at the same time
that the other is driving to the left.
A modified arrangement of the foregoing apparatus may be applied to the outer
end of the pantagraph instead of directly to the moveable frame B carrying the
lace or other fabric to be embroidered and which frame has hitherto been operated
by means of the pantagraph the outer end of the latter in such case being moved
by hand instead of as now proposed by Jacquard.
In carrying our invention into effect two Jacquards may be used, if desired, to
govern the motions of the moveable frame B instead of one Jacquard as herein,
before described.

page_text: In this case one Jacquard would operate the lateral movements of the moveable.
frame B carrying the lace or other fabric to be embroidered and the second
Jacquard would operate the vertical movements of the said frame.
If desired instead of using the description of Jacquard apparatus hereinbefore
referred to in carrying our invention into effect, other descriptions of Jacquard
machinery or other pattern producing or regulating apparatus may be employed,
the position and arrangement of the parts being suitably modified as may be
required.
The embroidery machine and the Jacquard or other pattern producing or
regulating apparatus are driven from the same shaft or are so connected together
as to ensure their working in correct relation with each other.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what
we claim is:-
1. The combination with embroidery machinery or apparatus of Jacquard or
other pattern producing or regulating apparatus for giving the required motions to
the frame carrying the lace or other fabric to be embroidered, and for operating
the tension lever and break apparatus.
2. The method of applying Jacquard machinery or other pattern producing or
regulating apparatus to embroidery machinery or apparatus substantially as herein
shown and described and for the purpose stated.