A Method or Process of Treating Silk or Mixed Silk Fabrics to give them the Appearance of China Crape.
Year: 1890

page_text: Date of Application, 10th Sept., 1890
Complete Specification Left, 5th Feb., 1891-Accepted, 7th Mar., 1891
PROVISIONAL DEVIATION.
A Method or Process of Treating Silk or Mixed Silk Fabrics to give
them the Appearance of China Crape.
I, DENIS GANTILLON, of Lyons, Rhône, France, Manufacturer, do hereby declare
the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
--
The invention consists of a method or process of treating fabrics of silk or other
materials mixed with silk so as to give them the appearance of China crape and
thereby obtain a novel product or fabric suitable for wearing apparel or other
purposes.
The method or process comprises the employment of the steaming column at a
high pressure (four to five atmospheres) but the characteristic feature is the manner
of placing the fabric on the column.
take the fabric in the state in which it comes from the dyer or weaver and wind
it on the column without stretching it either lengthwise or breadthwise, and I
employ an intermediate cloth, blanket or lining of similar close mesh, and I give to
this intermediate cloth a sufficient tension while winding it on the column, without
which a fabric is obtained which has only perfect tension but has not the appearance
of China crape.
I then submit the fabric to the steaming operation for about
fifteen minutes under a pressure of approximately five atmospheres. The fabric can
then be unwound and folded ready for the market.
The intermediate cloth plays the principal part in producing the effects that are
obtained in the fabric to which it is wished to give the appearance of China crape.
These effects can be greatly varied according to the texture of the intermediate
cloth or lining which is of cotton or linen.
By more or less tightening the fabric it can be submitted to the steaming operation
at a pressure of five atmospheres for five to six minutes.
Dated this 10th day of September 1890.
J. C. MEWBURN,
55 & 56, Chancery Lane, London, Patent Agent.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
A Method or Process of Treating Silk or Mixed Silk Fabrics to give
them the Appearance of China Crape.
I, DENIS GANTILLON, of Lyons, Rhône, France, Manufacturer, do hereby
declare the nature of this invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:
This invention consists of a method or process of treating fabrics of silk or other
materials mixed with silk, so as to give them the appearance and feel of China
crape and thereby obtain a novel product or fabric suitable for wearing apparel or
other purposes.
The method or process comprises the employment of the steaming column at a high
pressure a characteristic feature being the manner of placing the fabric on the
column.
I take the fabric in the state in which it comes from the dyer or weaver and wind
it on the column without stretching it either lengthwise or breadthwise and I
employ an intermediate cloth, blanket or lining of similar close mesh and I give to
this intermediate cloth a sufficient tension while winding it on the column, without
which a fabric is obtained which has perfect tension but not the appearance of

page_text: China crape.
I then submit the fabric to the steaming operation for a period
varying from 5 to 15 minutes under a pressure of approximately 4 to 5 atmospheres.
The fabric can then be unwound and folled ready for the market.
The intermediate cloth plays the principal part in producing the effects that are
obtained in the fabric to which it is wished to give the appearance of China crape.
These effects can be greatly varied according to the texture of the intermediate
cloth or lining which is of cotton or linen.
The tension given to the fabric while wound on the column will vary according
to the nature of the fabric and it is not possible to define it precisely; I will only
remark that too much tension will have the fleet of gottering the fabric, while on
the contrary if there is too little tension the fabric will preserve its ordinary
appearance. The ordinary gottering of mixed silk fabries produces effects that are
similar to the fabric produced by me but incompletely, because an ordinary goffered
fabric has not the feel or appearance of my fabric. But by submitting a goffered
fabric to the steaming operation hereinbefore referred to I obtain the desired feel
and appearance,
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, 1 declare that what I
claim is :-
1. The method or proce
hereinbefore described of treating silk or mixed silk
fabrics to give them the appearance of China crape, the said method or process
consisting in submitting the fabric in the state in which it comes from the dyer or
weaver, that is to say, without stretching it eitlur lengthwise or breadthwise, to the
action of a straming column at high pressure, and in employing an intermediate
cloth. blanket or lining of -imilar close mesh, this cloth receiving a suitable tension
while being wound on the colan, for the purpose set forth.
2. The modification of the said method or process which consists in subunitting a
goffered mixed silk fabric to the action of a steaming column at high pressure as
and for the purpose set forth.
Dated this 5th day of February 1891.
J. C. MEWBURN,
55 & 56, Chancery Lane, London, Patent Agent.