IMPROVEMENTS IN ORNAMENTAL WEAVING
Year: 1854

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to James Smith, of Glasgow, in the County of Lanark,
North Britain, Pattern Weaver, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS
IN ORNAMENTAL WEAVING."
Sealed the 4th August 1854, and dated the 21st February 1854.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said James Smith at the Office
of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 21st February
1854.
I, JAMES SMITH, of Glasgow, in the County of Lanark, North Britain,
Pattern Weaver, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for
"IMPROVEMENTS IN ORNAMENTAL WEAVING" to be as follows:-
This Invention relates to the manufacture of goods of the "lappet" class,
wherein the use of the ordinary pattern barrel or wheel is dispensed with.
The usual "whip" rolls are also superseded by these improvements, and whilst
the weaver's trouble is lessened, the economy of the manufacture is greatly
increased. Instead of the pattern barrel, a small cylinder is used, carrying an
endless chain composed of small slips of wood, gutta percha, or other material
capable of being shaped to the required form of link, and hard enough to with-
stand the working action. Or, instead of this contrivance, a framework or
combination of plates or slips of iron, wood, or other material may be used,
such pieces being acted upon by a cylinder with perforated cards, so as to pro-

page_text: duce the required pattern by acting upon the usual figuring mechanism of the
loom. This movement is on the principle of the jacquard. In the endless
chain arrangement the links of such chain are formed and arranged to suit
the intended pattern to be woven. The pattern or figure is engraved or formed
either in intaglio or in relievo upon the external face of the chain, as many lines
of pattern or figure being used as there are needle frames. These pattern
lines extend continuously over the chain, and a pin or catch from each needle
slide is connected with or enters into each of such pattern lines. The endless
chain is made to traverse to suit the loom action, and the needle frames
governing the figuring movements are thus made to traverse for the figuring
action. In addition to this movement, the endless chain carries a secondary
figure actuating a set of cranked pieces which communicate with the lines of
needles, so as to throw in or out such sets of needles as the pattern may require.
In dispensing with the "whip" rolls, the cops or bobbins of whip material are
applied directly to the loom. This whip yarn is used in its natural untwined
condition, and as many ends or lines of yarn are passed up in combination from
these cops as may be necessary for the production of the required figuring
thread. These lines of yarn in passing from the cops are kept at a regular
even tension by being passed between frictional spring holders or elastic clips,
so as to dispense with any other mechanism, and guide the yarn uniformly to
the fabric as the weaving goes on. Either of these processes considerably
extends the capabilities of the lappet loom, affording a greater horizontal
range for the needle rods, so that an increased number may be used with
convenience. Thus a greater width or greater complexity of design is easily
attainable, whilst any length is secured by adding to the chain or to the
perforated cards.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said James Smith in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 21st
August 1854.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JAMES
SMITH, of Glasgow, in the County of Lanark, North Britain, Pattern Weaver,
send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-first day of February, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-four, in the seventeenth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me,

page_text: the said James Smith, Her special license that I, the said James Smith, my:
executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said James Smith,
my executors, administrators, or assigns, should at any time agree with, and
no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter, during the term
therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend,
within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands,
and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN ORNAMENTAL WEAVING,"
upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said James Smith, by an instru-
ment in writing under my hand and seal, should particularly describe and ascer-
tain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was
to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent
Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the
said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said James Smith, do hereby eclare
the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to
be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement, reference being had to the accompanying Drawings, and
to the letters and figures marked thereon, that is to say :-
My said Invention relates to the manufacture of goods of the "lappet" class,
wherein the use of the ordinary pattern barrel or wheel is dispensed with.
The usual "whip "rolls are also superseded by these improvements, and whilst
the weaver's trouble is lessened, the economy of the manufacture is greatly
increased. Instead of the pattern barrel, a small cylinder is used, carrying an
endless chain composed of small slips of wood, gutta percha, or other material
capable of being shaped to the required form of link, and hard enough to with-
stand the working action. Or, instead of this contrivance, a framework or
combination of plates or slips of iron, wood, or other material may be used,
such pieces being acted upon by a cylinder with perforated cards, so as to pro-
duce the required pattern by acting upon the usual figuring mechanism of the
loom. This movement is on the principle of the jacquard. In the endless
chain arrangement, the links of such chain are formed and arranged to suit the
intended pattern to be woven.
The pattern or figure is engraved or formed either in intaglio or in relievo,
upon the external face of the chain, as many lines of pattern or figure being
used as there are needle frames. These pattern lines extend continuously over
the chain, and a pin or catch from each needle slide is connected with or enters
into each of such pattern lines. The endless chain is made to traverse to suit
the loom action, and the needle frames governing the figuring movements are
thus made to traverse for the figuring action. In addition to this movement

page_text: the endless chain carries a secondary figure actuating a set of cranked pieces
which communicate with the lines of needles, so as to throw in or out such
sets of needles as the pattern may require. In dispensing with the "whip"
rolls, the cops or bobbins of whip material are applied directly to the loom.
This whip yarn is used in its natural untwined condition, and as many ends or
lines of yarn are passed up in combination from these cops as may be necessary
for the production of the required figuring thread. These lines of yarn in
passing from the cops are kept at a regular even tension, by being passed
between frictional spring holders, or elactic clips, so as to dispense with any
other mechanism, and guide the yarn uniformly to the fabric as the weaving
goes on.
Either of these processes considerably extends the capabilities of the
lappet loom, affording a greater horizontal range for the needle rods, so that an
increased number may be used with convenience. Thus a greater width or
greater complexity of design is easily attainable, whilst any length is secured by
adding to the chain or to the perforated cards.
And in order that my said Invention may be properly understood, I shall
now proceed to describe the several explanatory Figures on the Sheet of
Drawings hereunto attached. The said Drawings represent one modification
of my improved pattern mechanism as applied to a hand lappet loom; but they
are equally applicable to a power loom, as will be obvious to the practical
man.
"
Figure 1, on the Sheet of Drawings, is a front elevation of a portion of a
loom lathe as constructed according to my Invention, various portions being
represented as broken away to facilitate the description; Figure 2 is a side
elevation; and Figure 3 is a plan corresponding to Figure 1; Figure 4 is a
plan of the central portion of the lathe handle; Figure 5 is a full size end
elevation of the pattern barrel; and Figure 6 is a front elevation of one of the
'splits" or strips upon which the pattern is cut; Figure 7 is a back elevation;
and Figure 8 is a transverse vertical section of the apparatus for regulating the
tension of the whip cords. In the system of ornamental weaving to which my
Invention more particularly refers, the pattern is produced by a series of what
are termed whip threads, which run along under the regular warp threads to
the front of the reed. Here each whip thread passes through the eye of a
vertical needle, to which alternate lateral and vertical motions are given, the
former laying the whip thread across a certain number of the regular warp
threads according to the pattern, and the latter motion raising or lowering the
whip thread through or along with the warp threads as the shed is formed, so
that the weft shoft binds or weaves in the whip thread between each cross or
lateral movement of its guiding needle. These arrangements cause the whip

page_text: thread to be laid back and forward upon the fabric, so as to cover the space
defined by the pattern mechanism which governs the lateral movement of the
needle. The needles are fixed in frames, all the needles in one frame pro-
ducing a similar pattern upon the fabric. According to the system of working
these needle frames hitherto in use, it has only been possible to conveniently
use three or at most four such needle frames; whereas according to my Inven-
tion a much greater number may be used with facility, thus very greatly
extending the capabilities of this class of loom. In the particular example I
have selected for representation there are eight needle frames. The needles A
are not fixed directly to the frames, but to horizontal bars B, which are capable
of traversing vertically in grooves in the vertical side pieces C, of the frames.
The horizontal top pieces D, of the frames, rest and slide in a groove E, in the
top of the lathe handle F, the several frames being separated by vertical pins
fixed in the groove to prevent their interfering with each other's motions. Thus
the frames partake only of the lateral movements, whilst the vertical move-
ments are communicated directly to the needle bars B. Both the lateral and
vertical movements are regulated by the pattern splits G. These splits consist of
long segmental pieces of wood or other suitable material, linked together to formi
an endless chain, which is passed round a barrel H, carried in bearings in a small
frame I, fixed towards the outer side of one of the swords J of the lathe. The
barrel H has fixed at one end a small ratchet wheel K, upon the teeth of which
a spring pall L acts in such a manner as to turn the barrel to the extent of a
tooth at each stroke or at each alternate stroke of the lathe. The barrel is
provided with pins M, at its ends, which enter holes in the ends of the splits G,
thereby securing their accurate motion. In the present instance each split is
made to answer for two single or double shots of the loom. The lateral move-
ments of the needles are regulated by grooves N cut continuously across the
splits, and corresponding in number to the needle frames C, D. The top
horizontal bars D of these frames project laterally, and have fingers or pikes O
fixed to each of them, and arranged to lie in the grooves N of the splits. The
frames C, D, are moved laterally by the contrivance represented in Figure 4; a
cord fixed to the top of each frame bar D is passed round a pulley in a small
block P, and has its other end fixed to the adjacent frame bar D; the eight
frame bars being thus connected in couples, a cord, one end of which is fixed to
the side of the lathe handle F, is passed round a pulley in one of the blocks P,
then round a pulley in a block Q, and again round a pulley in a second block
P; its other end being fixed at R. Another cord connects the two other
blocks P to a second block Q, in a similar manner, and the two blocks Q are
connected together by a cord passing round a pulley in a larger block S, upon

page_text: the opposite side of which is a similar arrangement of cords and pulleys for
acting on the frame bars D, in the reverse direction. The block S is placed
in a groove in the top of the handle F of the lathe, and the weaver passes his
hand between two projections on the block S, and shifts it from side to side at
the proper times for changing the positions of the needle frames. The traverse
from side to side of the frames C, D, is obiously regulated by the width of the
grooves N on the pattern splits; and the arrangement of cords and pulleys P, Q,
admits of the unequal movements of all the different frames being effected by
a single action. Thus, when, on drawing the frames to one side, one of a pair,
coupled together as described, reaches the end of its traverse, or comes in con-
tact with the side of the groove before the other, the cord meeting with re-
sistance from that frame will be drawn round the pulley of the block P, until
the other frame reaching the end of its traverse offers an equal resistance,
whereupon the block P will remain stationary. Again, each block Q will
traverse until both the blocks P connected to it are drawn tight, whether the
distances they have to traverse is equal or unequal; and in the same manner
the block S will be capable of traversing until both the blocks Q are drawn
tight. Thus, however unequal the traverses of the individual frames may be,
they will each and all be shifted to the full extent of the respective traverses as
defined by the grooves N on the pattern splits, when the block S is drawn as far
to one side as the cords will permit. It will be understood then, that at each
pattern action the whip threads will be laid by their needles across the number
of warp threads of the fabric corresponding to the width of those grooves N
of the pattern splits, in which lie the fingers or pikes 0 of the respective
needle frames in action. If all the sets of needles are made to rise and fall
at each stroke of the lathe, the whip threads will be woven into the fabric
continuously; but as in most patterns the whip threads, or some of them, require
to be woven in at intervals only, a species of jacquard movement is introduced
to effect the raising at each stroke of only such sets of needles as the require-
ments of the pattern may call for. The needle bars B are each suspended by
cords T at each end to vertical jacquard wires U, carried in frames V, fixed to
the upper part of the swords J. The upper ends of the wires U are hooked
for the purpose of being lifted by the bar W which slides vertically on rods X
fixed in the frame V, being drawn up by a treadle or other movement at the
formation of each shed of the warp threads. The vertical wires U pass through
eyes formed in the horizontal wires Y, the corresponding wires Y on opposite
sides of the lathe being connected by cords Z. The wires Y are acted upon
by weights or springs so as to tend to keep the vertical wires U inclined to one
side, in order that the lifting bar W may not catch their hooked upper ends.

page_text: When, however, any of the needle bars B is to be lifted so that the corresponding
whip threads may be woven into the fabric at that part, the corresponding
wires U are drawn into such a position as to be caught and lifted by the
bar W when it rises. For the purpose of effecting this engaging action, the
horizontal wires Y are connected by cords a, passing over pulleys 6, to a series
of cranked levers c, which levers are acted upon by the pattern splits G.. The
cords a pass through guide holes d in an overhanging plate or board e, fixed
over the levers c, near the outer extremity of the frame I. The cords are
attached to the upper ends of the levers c, which oscillate on the wire spindle f,
being kept from interfering with each other's movements by vertical wires g
passed down between them. The pulling action of the weights or springs
already referred to as connected to the wires Y causes the lower ends of the
levers c to press against the pattern splits G. These splits have grooves or
recesses h formed in them in accordance with the pattern, and on a recess h,
coming opposite to any of the levers c, the point of the lever falls into the
recess, and allows the weight or spring already referred to, to draw the corre-
sponding wire U out of the range of the lifting bar W, and the corresponding
set of needles with their whip threads unacted upon during the weft shot
then being thrown. On the prominent portion of the pattern split coming
opposite the points of any of the levers c, the corresponding wire U is drawn
to such a position as to be caught and lifted by the bar W. Thus, suitably
arranging and combining the details which regulate the lateral and vertical
movements of the needles, an endless variety of patterns may be produced. In
front of the needle bars B is a bar i, in which a number of vertical needles ; are
fixed, and which is connected directly to the lifting bar W by cords K so as to
rise and fall with it at each shed. These needles do not carry whip threads,
but serve to guide the shuttle, as this must necessarily pass at some short dis-
tance in front of the reed, the position of which is indicated at 7 in Figure 2.
A portion of the whip threads are represented at m, in Figure 3, as passing
through their guiding needles A. These whip threads m pass along from the
back of the loom at a short distance below the warp threads u, as represented
in Figures 7 and 8. The tension of the whip threads is regulated by apparatus
fixed upon a cross piece o at the back of the loom. To the bottom of this
cross piece o is fixed a plate p, through perforations in which the several whip
threads m pass up freely from cops or bobbins below to a plate q, like an
inverted L in cross section fixed to the top of the cross piece o.
The plate q
is perforated at the back and front, and the threads pass across it immediately
beneath its horizontal top, against which each individual thread is slightly.

page_text: pressed by a small plate acted upon by a helical spring r. The several helical
springs rest upon an adjustable cross bar s sliding in staples t at the sides, and
capable of being shifted up or down by means of the screws u, so as to cause the
springs to act on the passing threads with more or less pressure. Wires v are
passed vertically down through the plate q, the springs r, and the cross bar s, in
order to keep the several parts in position. In carrying out the modification of
figuring mechanism already herein-before referred to, in which the pattern splits
are dispensed with, and a jacquard movement adopted instead thereof, the needle
frames C, D, with their pikes or fingers 0 remain the same as in the modifica-
tion represented in the Drawings hereunto attached. The barrel H, with the
splits G, however, are removed, and in place of them a frame is fitted up con-
taining a series of plates or small levers of metal or any suitable material,
carried by and free to oscillate upon a horizontal wire or spindle. The front
ends of these plates act upon the pikes or fingers O of the needle frames, and
they are themselves acted upon at the back by cards or plates cut according to
the pattern, and worked by a barrel on the jacquard system. The plates which
act upon the fingers O regulate the length of lateral traverse of these fingers.
This effected by the turning or lifting out of the way of the respective finger
of the number of plates corresponding to the length of traverse to be given to
the finger O and the frame to which it is attached, the plates left in their
normal position acting exactly like the sides of the grooves N of the splits G,
in the arrangement represented in the Drawings. The plates may be actuated
by various arrangements of cards or jacquard mechanism. According to one
plan, the cards may be notched at the edges, so that on being brought into
contact with the back ends of the plates, such of the plates as are opposite
the notches in the cards will remain unacted upon, the others only being
turned or shifted so as to carry their front ends out of the way of the fingers O,
or vice versa. The same result may be obtained by means of perforated or
other pattern cards, which may be arranged to act in various ways upon the
plates, either directly or indirectly. The plates may be made to recover their
normal positions by springs or weights, or they may be so balanced or hung as
to recover their positions of themselves. According to another modification, a
flat horizontal plate is fixed just beneath the fingers 0 of the needle frames.
This plate is pierced with a series of holes along the front edge and beneath
the fingers O, a second and precisely similar series of boles being made along
the back edge of the plate. Underneath the plate, and carried upon a wire or
spindle running along the longitudinal centre of the plate, are a series of oscil-
lating needles with turned up ends, one end of each needle passing up through

page_text: a hole in the front series, whilst the other end passes up through a hole in the
back series. The cards or plates of the jacquard mechanism, which cards or
plates may be perforated or notched according to pattern, are made to act upon
the back ends of the oscillating needles. In their normal positions these
needles do not project through the front holes of the plate, but the depressing
action of the jacquard movement causes certain of them to rise so as to regu-
late the lateral movement of the fingers O of the whip needle frames C, D.
These details may be modified in various ways, but I prefer the general arrange-
ments represented in the Sheet of Drawings hereunto attached.
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of my said
Invention, and the manner in which the same is or may be used or carried
into effect, I may observe, in conclusion, that I do not confine or restrict
myself to the precise details or arrangements which I have had occasion to
describe or refer to, as many variations may be made therefrom without
deviating from the principles or main features of my Invention; but what
I consider to be novel and original, and therefore claim as the Invention
secured to me by the herein-before in part recited Letters Patent, is,-
First, the general arrangement and construction of machinery or apparatus
to be employed in weaving ornamental fabrics, as herein-before described.
Second, the application and use, in looms for weaving ornamental fabrics,
of a series of endless chain of segmental splits or strips of wood or other
suitable material, arranged to act on the needle frames as employed in lappet
weaving by means of grooves or recesses cut upon them in accordance with
the pattern, as herein-before described.
Third, the system or mode of fitting the needle bars as used in lappet looms
in grooves in the insides of the vertical side pieces of the needle frames, so as
to render them less liable to catch in the frames, as herein-before described.
Fourth, the application of the jacquard movement, or a portion of it, to
the lifting of the needle bars, as used in lappet looms, as herein-before
described.
Fifth, the application and use of the jacquard movement, or a portion of it,
in combination with the grooved or recessed splits and lever movement, as
herein-before described.
Sixth, the system or mode of regulating the tension of the whip threads as
employed in lappet weaving, by passing them individually between plates pressed
together by adjustable springs, as herein-before described.
Seventh, the system or mode of regulating the lateral movements of the
needle frames of lappet and similar looms by means of jacquard mechanism

page_text: acting through intermediate oscillating or shifting plates or wires, as herein-
before described.
In witness whereof, I, the said James Smith, have hereunto set my hand
and seal, this Nineteenth day of August, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and fifty-four.
JAMES SMITH. (L.S.)