IMPROVEMENTS IN AND APPARATUS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF AYRSHIRE BONNETS
Year: 1874

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Russell, of Kilmarnock, in the County
of Ayr, North Britain, Hosier, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS
3
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Russell at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on
the 12th January 1874.
.
I, WILLIAM RUSSELL, of Kilmarnock, in the County of Ayr, North
Britain, Hosier, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention
for "IMPROVEMENTS IN AND APPARATUS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF AYRSHIRE
BONNETS," to be as follows:-
This Invention, which relates to improvements in the manufacture of
Ayrshire bonnets, consists in making such bonnets by what is commonly
known as the common hosiery stitch and also the polka stitch.
Now this Invention is performed by the use and application to the
purpose of the common hosiery frame or the rotary frame in combi-

page_text: 66
nation with the top carrier, the hand, swing, or bottom carrier, the hand
narrower, and with or without the "tug" or dandie "
actuated either by hand or motive power.
presser and
In carrying my Invention into practical effect I use a common hosiery
or stocking frame with solid leads or fixed needles (not hinged or spring
leads), and commencing at the crown I first form a few stitches, say
from three to nine, at two, three, or more separate places on the needles
and at equal distances apart (the distance apart being regulated
according to the size of the bonnet wanted), such stitches being formed
in the same manner as in ordinary machine-made hosiery, but after the
second or third course I increase the loops or stitches on each row both
ways until all the parts or liths which form the crown meet and are
joined together. This takes place when the widest part of the bonnet
is reached at the outside of the crown, when by the use of the carrier
the speed is greatly increased as I now proceed with the same width
until coming near to the lower selvidge, when I introduce a tightening
rod, which runs across the frame from screw to screw, and can be
pushed out or in in an instant, and which draws up the loops or stitches
closer, thereby tightening the band of the cap (in a similar manner to
reducing it with a narrowing machine) and saving much time. The
selvidges of the separate parts of the crown are then sewed together,
and afterwards milled, blocked, and finished in the ordinary manner.
sometimes commence at the lower selvidge, making the band of the cap
which runs from two to six inches deep in straight courses. The bands
are then taken off the frame altogether, and run on to a wider frame,
but in running it on making every fifth or sixth loop or stitch into two
loops or stitches; then about a dozen straight courses finishes the widest
part of the crown, when with the use of a narrowing machine fitted
with leads as on the needle bar, only moveable to any given front, and
with small cross points, which works on a straight line with the front of.
the needles, I lift and throw off any given number of loops at different
parts of the cap at one time. This cap when turned off the frame has
only one seam, viz., from the lower selvidge to the centre of the crown.
I
I also make these caps in two pieces on narrow machinery, either
beginning from the crown to the lower selvidge or from the lower
selvidge to the crown, and I perform this in the same manner as I have
before described in the making of the cap in one piece. The two pieces

page_text: or halves are then sewed together from the lower selvidge over the
crown and to the lower selvidge on the opposite side, and after being
milled, blocked, and finished the seam is not discernable.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said William Russell in the Great Seal Patent Office
on the 11th July 1874.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, WILLIAM
RUSSELL, of Kilmarnock, in the County of Ayr, North Britain, Hosier,
send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Twelfth day of January, in the year.
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-four, in the
thirty-seventh year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and suc-
cessors, give and grant unto me, the said William Russell, Her special
licence, that I, the said William Russell, my executors, administrators,
and assigns, or such others as I, the said William Russell, my
executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with,
and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during
the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use,
exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and
Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IM-
PROVEMENTS IN AND APPARATUS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF AYRSHIRE BONNETS,"
upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said William Russell,
my executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my,
or their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe
and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner
the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the
Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and imme-
diately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said William Russell, do hereby declare
the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to
be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
and by the following statement:-
This Invention, which relates to improvements in the manufacture of

page_text: Ayrshire bonnets, consists in making such bonnets by what is commonly
known as the common hosiery stitch and also the polka stitch, as herein-
after described.
"
Now this Invention is performed by the use and application to the
purpose of the common hosiery frame or the rotary hosiery frame in
combination with the top carrier, the hand and swing carriers, the
narrowing machine, the hand narrower, and with or without the "tug
or "dandie " pressure used in manufacturing other descriptions of
machine-made hosiery, the frame being actuated by hand or motive
power.
In carrying my Invention into practical effect I use a common hosiery
or stocking frame, and in commencing at the crown of the bonnet I first
form a few stitches, say from three to nine, at two, three, or more
separate places on the needles, and at equal distances apart (the distance
apart being regulated according to the size of bonnet required), such
stitches being formed in the same manner as in ordinary machine-made
hosiery, but after the second or third course I' increase the loops or
stitches on each row both ways until all the parts or liths which form
the crown meet and are joined together. This takes place when the
widest part of the bonnet is reached at the outside of the crown, when
by the use of the carriers the speed is greatly accelerated as I now
proceed with the same width until coming near to the lower selvidge,
when I introduce a tightening rod, which runs across the frame from
screw to screw, and can be pushed out or in in an instant, and thus
draw up the loops or stitches closer, thereby tightening the band of the
cap (in a similar manner to reducing it with a narrowing machine), and
saving much time. Or instead of commencing at the crown I commence
with the lower selvidge, making the band of the bonnet first, then the
"stand," and finally I form the parts composing the crown by narrowing
down, as herein-after described. The parts forming the crown are then
sewed together as well as the side selvidges of the band and " stand,"
and the bonnet it then milled, block, and finished in the ordinary
manner.
I also make these bonnets in two or more pieces on narrow machinery,
either beginning from the crown to the lower selvidge or from the lower
selvidge to the crown, and I perform this in the same manner as I have
before described in the making of the cap in one piece. The two or

page_text: more pieces are then sewed together from the lower selvidge over the
crown and down to the lower selvidge again on the opposite side, and
after being milled, block, and finished the seaming is not discernable.
And in order that this my said Invention may be the more readily
understood and carried into practical effect I have hereunto annexed a
Sheet of Drawings illustrative of the various mechanism which I apply
in the manufacture of Scotch bonnets in accordance with this Invention,
similar letters marked on the several views being used to denote similar
parts.

page_text: of frame in order to obtain great speed, which is effected by the thread
layer A self-actingly laying the thread in front of the falling jacks,
leaving the hands of the operator free to drive the frame. This top
carrier is actuated by a cord B passing over the pulleys C, C, at each
end, and thence round the slur wheel of the hosiery frame, so that the
same motion which works the frame is made available for working the
top carrier. A loop or catch D is secured to the cord B, which catches
upon the pin E, and thus causes the thread longer A to travel with it
backwards and forwards in the framework F. This top carrier is secured
on the front standards of the hosiery frame above the head of the
operator, and may have any number of thread layers A. Its action is
instantly stopped by simply lifting off the loop or catch D from the

page_text: out as many leads as required, or a notched wheel may be substituted
for the lever handles N for actuating the racks M, so that each notch
turned makes the thread layers A travel one lead less or more than the
course preceding. This hand carrier, may also be used with one or any
requisite number of thread layers A. It is arranged to travel upon
wheels or rollers P upon the horizontal slides Q (see Fig. 7), forming
part of the bracket, Fig. 7, and is controlled by the operator, who works
it by means of the cranked handle R.
The narrowing machine, Figs. 5 and 6, is mounted by its arms or
pins S in the groove T formed in the brackets secured to each side of
the needle bar of the hosiery frame, one of which brackets is shewn
detached in Fig. 7. This narrowing machine rests when not in use in
the top portion of the groove T, marked T¹, and when required for use
is lifted down off its resting place by means of the cranked handle U,
being guided by the grooves in the brackets on to the horizontal portion
of the groove marked T, which is in a straight line with the points of
the needles of the hosiery frame. It is provided as illustrated with a
number of points V corresponding to the number and position of loops.
requiring to be lifted together to form the requisite number of parts in
the crown, the loops being lifted off one set of needles by the points V
and thrown back on to another set, either one or more leads to the right
or left, according to the degree of narrowing or widening required. This
machine is preferred to be fitted with racks as on the hand carrier
herein-before described, and thus ensure absolute certainty in lifting the
loops, the racks being moved to the right or left by the handle W'as
many leads as required, the teeth of the racks being arranged to corre-
spond exactly with the width of leads; or instead of a double rack a
single rack may be applied to the under side of the point bar and be
actuated by the handle. This narrowing machine is operated by the
workman, who taking hold of the cranked handle U, and having moved
the points V to the right side, first proceeds to narrow all the parts of
the crown on the right-hand side. The points V should then be moved
to the left side by means of the pin X, and after narrowing all the left-
hand sides of the parts forming the crown the machine should then be
lifted on to its resting place T¹ until again required.
The points
may be either secured rigidly to the point bar V', as illustrated, or
such points may be secured in position in the same manner as in the
hand narrower, to be presently described.

page_text: "
The "
tug or "dandie" presser, Fig. 8, is principally used when the
bonnets are made with a dice, check, or fancy pattern round their bands,
or may be used in knitting the whole bonnet with the polka stitch when
a heavier class of bonnet is desired. It is attacked to the presser of the
hosiery frame, and operates on a proportion of the needles in the frame
at every course or as the operator may desire. The "tug" may be
made one and one, one and two, two and two, two and three, two and
fours, &c.
or
The hand narrower, Fig. 9, otherwise known as a " shifter"
"scraper," is used for forming the several parts of the crown of bonnets
made in accordance with this Invention, being used to lift the loops
from one set of needles on to another in order to widen or narrow the
parts on those hosiery frames to which a narrowing machine is not
applied. It may contain one or any requisite number of points a, any
of which are capable of removal by simply withdrawing the wires b
sideways. In narrowing with this hand narrower the narrowings are
either taken in from the centre of each piece or part of the crown and
scattered gradually across, bringing each selvidge nearer the centre at
each successive shift or lifted from the selvidges in towards the centre
of the parts.
The hosiery frames employed for the purposes of this Invention have
fixed leads or needles, as seen in Fig. 10, but I sometimes prefer the
ordinary hinged needles as illustrated by Fig. 10°, so that in narrowing
or widening I may throw out or bring the needles into play as required.
For altering the length of loop or stitch instantaneously I use the
arrangement represented in Figs. 11 to 13, in which c are the "stars"
or screwed nuts which regulate the height of the falling bar d on which
the jacks e rest; f is my improved tightening rod, which is provided as
illustrated with a raised projection g and depression h at each extremity,
where slots are also formed which embrace the screws. of the stars c.
The action of this tightening rod is as follows:-When it is moved to
the right by the handle i (as seen in the Drawing) both the “stars” c
are raised simultaneously on to the projections 9, which thus raises
the falling bar upon which the jacks e rest; the length of the loops or
stitches is so reduced, and a tighter stitch is produced suitable for the
bands of Scotch bonnets, whilst if moved to the left the stars fall into
the depressions h, and thus lower the falling bar d in order to lengthen

page_text: the loops or stitches and make them suitable for the stand and crown of
Scotch bonnets.
The modification illustrated by Fig. 13 consists of a square rod j
mounted in bearings / at the rear of the needle bar e, and provided with
slotted bent arms m screwed or otherwise secured to the square rod j
immediately underneath the slides n in which the falling bar d is
mounted, so that when turned partially round upon its axis such slides
are raised or lowered simultaneously by the arms m. This modification
is capable of producing even a stiffer loop or stitch than the tightening
rod f.
In manufacturing Ayrshire bonnets in accordance with this Invention
I either commence at the lower selvidge and work to the centre of the
crown, or I commence at the crown and work to the lower selvidge. I
also work the bands on one frame, which consists of about twenty
courses, turn them off and run them on to a wider frame, increasing
every fifth or sixth loop into two loops or stitches, then working on as
if commenced at the lower selvidge, the stitch being the same as that
used in the manufacture of all classes of hosiery. In commencing with
the lower selvidge I proceed as follows:-I cast the stitches on the
whole width of the needles either with a casting-on machine or by hand,
and having raised the falling bar d by means of the tightening rod f
(herein-before described) I use the swing or top carrier, and thus rapidly
work about sixteen courses, more or less, according to the width of band
required, and thus form the band with close stitches. I now lower the
falling bar d by simply pushing back the tightening rod f, and work
about twenty courses, more or less, which finishes the "stand" of the
bonnet with more open stitches. The crown is now formed in two or
more parts, either on the same frame or may be removed to another
frame for the purpose. In order to facilitate the forming of the crown
in the requisite number of parts I arrange the needles forming the
division between each part to be slightly bent upwards, and thus enable
the operator to more easily distinguish in separating the threads into
the requisite number of parts. In working the crown on the same
machine I either substitute the hand carrier for the top carrier or use
the swing carrier, or throw the thread by the hand, and thus work to
the centre of the crown. If the crown is required to be in two pieces I
proceed as follows:-First shift. I work six courses, and with the
narrowing machine or hand narrower take in or narrow six leads in each

page_text: part forming the crown or three leads each side of cach part. I then
work four courses and narrow four leads in each part, and repeat tho
same four times running. In the sixth shift I work three courses and
narrow four leads in each part, then work one or two courses and
turn off.
-
Diagram Fig. 14 illustrates the shape of this bonnet when turned off
the frame, the two parts forming the crown being marked o. Fig. 15 is
a top view of the same after being seamed, the line representing the
seam.
To work to the centre of the crown and to form the crown from the
finish of "stand" in four pieces, as seen in Diagram, Fig. 16, I work as
follows: First shift. Work six courses and take in or narrow with the
narrowing machine or hand narrower, three leads in each part forming
the crown.
For the next four shifts I work four courses and narrow
two leads. I then for the sixth shift work three courses and narrow two
leads; finally I work one or two courses and turn off.
Fig. 17 illustrates a top view of this bonnet, the radial lines repre-
senting the seams of the four parts composing the crown. To work to
the centre of the crown in three parts or more than four parts from the
finish of the stand I make my shifts much the same as when working
in two and four parts, only the narrowings to be in proportion to the
parts required to form the crown. In commencing at the crown of the
bonnet I cast on to the common hosiery or rotary frame about four leads
either in one, two, three, four, or more places on the needles, according
to the required number of parts in the crown. If required in one piece
I cast it on the centre of the needles; if in two, three, or more places I
cast on at equal distances apart, the divisions for casting on being easily
I then
distinguished by the bent needles hercin-before mentioned.
either with the swing or hand carrier or laying the thread by the hand
work two or three courses, then widen out inside of narrowing, the
shifts being now reversed as follows:-The first shift is the same as the
sixth shift in commencing at the lower selvidge, only widening instead
of narrowing. The second shift is then the same as the fifth shift, and
narrow or "take in" into widen
so on, always converting the words
out, and the widenings to be effected either with the hand narrower or
narrowing machine or partly with the swing or hand carrier, either from
the centre of each part forming the crown, so widening out the selvidges
or widening from the selvidges towards the centre. After the sixth
"
"

page_text: course I substitute the top carrier instead of the hand carrier, or I
retain the swing carrier, and after working about twenty courses I push
the tightening rod f on to the projection, then work sixteen stiff.courses
and turn off; or instead of turning off I run in a thread of cotton and
then start a fresh bonnet from the cotton, commencing with the
tightening rod in the same position, viz., on the projections, and working
towards the centre of the crown, as before described. This saves the
time occupied in turning the first bonnet off, and also saves the time
required to cast the second bonnet on, and the cotton course remains
between the two bonnets until they have been milled, when they may be
separated without risk of unravelling.
:
I. also work the band and stand of the Scotch bonnet from the common
circular frame cither from the lower selvidge to the finish of the stand
or from finish of stand or widest part of the crown down to the
lower selvidge, which consists of about thirty-six courses; then turn off
òr cast off, or run a slack course in between each, and working on so
that they could either be taken off singly or in quantity. The crowns
are the worked in two or more parts with the common hosiery or rotary
frame, as herein-before described. In making the bonnets this style
the seams will only extend across the crowns, the stand and band of the
bonnet being without a seam, and only one half of the crown being
knitted at a time in any number of equal parts.
:
and
Fig. 18 represents a bonnet with three parts forming the crown,
Fig. 19 a bonnet made in two distinct pieces in accordance with this
Invention, the direction of the seaming being illustrated by the adjoining
plan in both cases.
The bonnets manufactured in accordance with this Invention when
seamed together are milled, blocked, and finished in the ordinary manner,
and the seams are not discernable.
Having thus particularly described and ascertained the nature of this
my said Invention, together with the best methods with which I am
acquainted for carrying the same into practical effect, I wish it to be
understood that I do not confine myself to the precise details, relative
proportions, or dimensions, herein-before described and illustrated, as
the same may be considerably varied without departing from the Inven-
tion; that I am aware that the mechanism herein-before described and
illustrated has been partly used in manufacturing other descriptions of

page_text: hosiery, and therefore I make no claim to it except when employed as
and for the purpose herein-before described, and I claim especially,―
1st. The manufacture of Ayrshire bonnets in two or more separate
pieces or in one piece with the crown formed in two or more parts, as
herein-before described and illustrated by the Diagrams, Figures 14 to 1
19 inclusive, or any mere modification of the same.
2nd. The use and application of a sliding or partially revolving
tightening bar for altering the height of the falling bar which carries
the jacks of hosiery frames, and whereby the length of loop or stitch
may be altered instantaneously, as and for the purpose described.
3rd. The combination of the common hosiery or rotary frame with
the narrowing machine top, swing, and hand carriers, and with or without
the hand narrower and "tug" or "dandie" presser, and the use and
application of the said combination to the manufacture of Ayrshire
bonnets, as and for the purposes herein-before described and illustrated 1
on the accompanying Drawing.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Russell, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Eighth day of July, in the year of our