stiffeners and in Apparatus therefor.
Year: 1886

page_text: stiffeners and in Apparatus therefor.
I, HENRY HARRIS LAKE, of the firm of Haseltine Lake, and Co., Patent Agents
Southampton Buildings in the County of Middlesex do hereby declare the nature
of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed to be particu-
larly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This invention contemplates the production of corsets having bamboo body
stiffening strips shorter than the height of the corset, and severally held tightly by
stitching, which, in being applied, draws the body layers of the corset closely over
each of the stiffening strips.
The invention embraces a novel form of composite stiffening fabric; an apparatus
for making said fabric and a method of making corsets containing a composite
stiffening fabric of this general character.
The object of the invention is to provide a way and means whereby the corset,
having bamboo body bones which are at once shorter than the height of the corset
and tightly confined by the stitching, may be practically manufactured in quantities
with expedition and economy.
The nature of the invention will be understood from the following description,
in which reference is made to the accompanying drawings, and from the appended
claims.
The stiffening constructed as proposed by this invention consists generically of a
series of bamboo, whalebone, or other analogous stiffening strips arranged parallel
with and slightly apart from each other and connected together in this position so
as to form a web of composite stiffening fabric of continuous or indefinite length.
In making a corset by the novel method forming part of this invention, a con-
tinuous web of such stiffening fabric is cut into lengths called batteries, shorter
than the height of the corset-body at the particular point where the batteries are
severally to be inserted, and said batteries are placed between the layers of cloth
which form the corset-body in such position that said layers project beyond the

page_text: bamboo strips both at top and bottom of the corset, each bone or strip of the
stiffening being then confined closely and firmly secured in place by stitching
through the material of the corset, and through the stiffening fabric along the
spaces between said stiffening strips.
A particular and preferable means of connecting the series of parallel bamboo
strips to form a stiffening fabric of the character above generally stated, consists of
two layers of cloth or other flexible material between which the strips are placed,
said strips being secured by bringing the flexible layers into contact with each
other in the spaces between the strips, and there fastening them together. This
form of stiffening fabric is herein claimed as part of our invention.
The machine for manufacturing the stiffening above described is illustrated in
the accompanying drawings, and will be hereinafter fully explained by reference to
said drawings.
In the accompanying drawings;
Figure 1 is a perspective view of a roll of corset stiffening of indefinite length
constructed as proposed by our invention.
Figure 2 is a fragmentary view of part of a corset-body, illustrating the manner
of applying the stiffening.
Figure 3 is a view showing a short piece of the stiffening fabric detached
wherein the bamboo strips are duplex.
Figure 4 is an enlarged section through the inner and outer layers of a corset
containing a battery of this stiffening taken on line x-x of Figure 2.
Figure 5 is a similar enlarged section taken upon line x-x of Figure 3.
Figure 6 is a fragmentary view illustrating the stiffening fabric made in several
separated groups of stiffening strips.
Figure 7 is a sectional view of a battery of stiffening slightly differing from that
shown in Figure 5.
Figure 8 is a side elevation of the machine for making the stiffening fabric, seen
in that view in which the product passes through the machine from right to left.
Figure 9 is an elevation of that end of the machine at which the several parts
composing the product enter the machine.
Figure 10 is a central, vertical section taken through the line x-x of Figure 9.
Figure 11 is an enlarged view in side elevation of the devices by which the
movable grooved cylinders are raised and lowered.
Figure 12 is a horizontal section taken in the line x-x of Figure 11 looking
downward.
Figure 13 is an enlarged view in section of the devices which guide the cloth
layers and bamboo strips into the machine.
Figure 13 is a detail perspective view of the spring-guide fingers I² shown
in Figure 13.
Figure 14 is a vertical, transverse section in the line x-x of Figure 8.
Figure 15 is an enlarged fragmentary section of the grooved rollers showing the
fabric between them when the stiffening strips are duplex.
Figure 16 is a detail sectional view, showing the lower end of the lever for
raising and lowering the movable grooved rollers.
Figure 17 represents a piece of the fabric which the machine is specially intended
to produce.
Figure 18 is a side elevation of the pasting apparatus showing parts broken
away.
Figure 19 is a top view of the same.
Figure 20 is a sectional view taken transversely through the grooved rollers,
illustrating in connection therewith an automatic cutting device for severing the
finished product as it issues from the rollers into pieces of suitable size for use in
corsets the section of the cutting device being taken upon line x-x Figure 21.
Figure 21 is an elevation of the rear end of the machine illustrating the cutting
device shown in Figure 20.
Figure 22 is a sectional view of the same, taken upon line x-x of Figure 20.

page_text: Figure 23 is a detail elevation showing in side view the devices shown in
Figures 20, 21 and 22, for regulating the movements of the cutting knife.
Figure 23 is a detail sectional elevation of the inner face of the hub of the
wheel Ps shown in Figure 23, illustrating the clutch device connecting the shaft P³
with the said wheel P₁.
Figure 23b is a section of the same taken upon line x-x of Figure 23ª.
Figure 23° is a perspective view of the part p shown in Figures 23 and 23b.
Figure 24 is an enlarged detail section taken upon line x-x of Figure 23.
Figures 25 and 26 are views illustrating another and a preferred device for _
operating the transverse knife at desired intervals.
Figure 27 illustrates the grooves wholly in one of the cylinders instead of in both.
In Figures 1 to 7, A A represents narrow strips of bamboo or analogous material,
and B B two layers of cloth, paper, or other flexible material between which said
strips are secured, and by which they are held at the proper distance apart.
As a preferred construction, the layers of cloth B are secured to each other
between the interposed strips A by means of paste or glue which, for convenience,
is usually applied to the entire adjacent surfaces of the cloth layers so as to secure
them to each other, and also to the strips. The layers of cloth may, however, be
otherwise held together as, for instance, by pasting only those surfaces which come
in contact between the strips or by basting or sewing the layers together between
the strips.
•
In Figures 2 and 4, C and C¹ represent respectively the outer and inner layers
of cloth composing a corset-body, the improved stiffening being shown in said
Figures as secured between said layers of the corset, by means of lines of stitching c
extending through said layers and through the layers B and B¹ of the stiffening
between the strips A.
In order to give a desired degree of flexibility combined with the necessary
strength in the stiffening, the strips A A thereof, as shown in Figures 1, 2, 3, 4
and 5, are preferably made duplex or of two strips a a¹ placed one upon the other.
The said two strips a a¹ are obviously held in position one upon the other by the
enclosing layers of cloth B B so that a stiffening composed of duplex strips A
may in the construction of corsets, be manipulated and secured with the same
facility as that having single strips. It is obviously not necessary that the layers
of cloth B B should permanently adhere to the strips A or to each other, inasmuch
as the important function of the material uniting the strips is to hold the latter in
position until the fabric has been cut up and fastened in the corset.
As shown in Figures 1 to 6 inclusive, but one layer of the connecting material,
of the stiffening fabric is depressed between the strips A, while in Figure 7 both
layers are depressed equally between the strips.
The improved stiffening, whether containing single or duplex bones, is made in
continuous or indefinite lengths and is cut into pieces or batteries of the desired
lengths and form for insertion in the bodies of corsets. In the use of duplex strips A,
the separate strips a 'a' composing them will be desirably placed with the joint of
one strip opposite the continuous portion of the adjacent strip, as indicated at a³
Figure 2. The stiffening so made in continuous or indefinite lengths has the
economic advantage of being separable into batteries of the desired dimensions
without waste.
In Figure 4, illustrating one margin of a corset made according to the method
herein proposed, one extremity of the battery is indicated by dotted lines as
terminating within the edge of the corset, it being understood that the bones
similarly terminate at a distance from the corset edge at their opposite ends. In
the use of bamboo or similar stiffening material, this construction is admittedly
necessary to a good and durable product, because otherwise the bones, in the use
of the corset, soon protrude through the binding.
In a former expeditious method of securing bamboo strips in corsets, long strips
of bamboo have been separately stitched between the body layers of several corset
sections, the stitching being continuous from one section to another. The sections

page_text: were then cut apart by severing the bones and stitching. The bones in that case
extend to the full length of the section, and to shorten them it was necessary to
rip apart the corset layers a suitable distance back from the edges and cut off the
bones. Obviously in our method the stitching may be done continuously from one
section to another with the same expedition as in the older method above referred
to, with the advantage that the ripping and recutting is unnecessary, that the
product has a more perfect finish and that the bones are each as tightly confined.
In the drawings illustrating the machine forming part of the invention,
Figures 8 to 27, A A are uprights or standards arranged opposite each other in
one or more pairs, and provided with vertical slots a a affording guides for the
bearing boxes B' of the rollers or cylinders B B. In this instance two pairs of
cylinders B are present in two sets of standards A, and for greater strength the
two standards at each side of the machine are connected by cross-bars a¹. Said
standards rest on a bed A¹ having legs A² the feet of which are bolted to a suitable
table. The bearing-boxes of the upper cylinders of each pair are limited in their
downward movement by stops a' of any suitable form on the standards but have
a possible upward movement which is opposed by stiff springs B³ the tension of
which is adjustable by means of screws B2 B3 passing through arched cross-
bars A A³ attached to the upper ends of the standards A and extending over the
slots a a.
The bearing boxes of the lower cylinders of each pair are sustained by
rods B B which rest at their lower ends upon excentrics C mounted upon
shafts C having bearings in brackets C bolted to the bed A¹ beneath the latter,
these parts being so arranged that by the partial rotation of the shafts, the lower
cylinders may be raised or lowered as desired in inserting the material to be
operated upon between them. Means are herein provided for actuating the said
shafts consisting of a lever C³ attached to the end of one of the shafts, and
connecting devices between the shafts whereby the rotary motion given to one
shaft by the lever is transmitted to the other shaft. For locking the lever in
position when the lower cylinders are raised, a spring pin c (Figure 16) is mounted
in the end of a short arm c¹ upon the lever and adapted to enter a recess c² in a
segmental arm ca bolted to the base A' as clearly shown in Figure 16. The said
arm c³ is as shown, provided with a projection or stop c (Figure 14) to limit the
movement of the lever in lowering the cylinders.
For transmitting rotary motion from one of the shafts C¹ to the other, a pivoted
and sliding lever C is connected at its opposite ends with cranks C³ upon the ends
of the said shafts at one side of the machine, and is provided in its middle portion
with a longitudinal slot chaving sliding engagement with a block c6 pivoted upon
a bracket C that is bolted to the machine frame.
The several cylinders B are geared together so as to revolve at the same speed
by means of intermeshing gear wheels B B upon the journals or trunnions h
of the upper and lower cylinders of each pair, and an intermediate gear wheel or
idler B (Figure 8) located between the gear wheels B belonging to the two
lower cylindere. A driving device for actuating the cylinders is herein shown,
consisting of a worm-wheel D mounted upon the shaft of one of the lower
cylinders and engaged with a worm D¹ upon a horizontally arranged shaft D³
provided with suitable belt pulleys D³ the said shaft D' having bearing in a
sleeve D' mounted to rotate about.a vertical axis upon a standard D³ attached
to the base A¹ whereby the said shaft may be swung in a vertical plane and the
worm thereby released from, and engaged with, the worm-wheel D, at will.
To enable the shaft D to be readily moved as described, and held in its changed
position, a hand lever D6 is attached to the sleeve D' said lever being adapted to
spring laterally at its free end, and arranged to engage a notched plate D' attached
to the machine frame, as clearly shown in Figures 8 and 9.
For drying the glue or paste by which the parts of the stiffening are united, the
cylinders B are made hollow, and are provided with interior gas supply tubes E
perforated for the exit of the gas; said tubes being inserted through the trun-
pions b and sustained axially within the cylinders by means of arms or brackets E¹

page_text: (Figures 8, 9 and 14) attached to the bearing boxes B₁ and preferably provided
with clamping devices e, of familiar construction, for engaging and holding the
gas-tubes. The bracket E¹ adjacent to. the trunnion supporting the worm-wheel D,
is secured to the bar B' below the bearing B₁ as clearly shown in the drawings,
Figures 9 and 14. As herein shown the cylinders B are made with separate metal
heads cast integral with the trunnions 6 and provided with apertures for
supplying air to the interior gas-flame (Figure 14) said heads being bolted to the
cylinder, as shown.
The cylinders B are provided upon their exterior cylindric surfaces with a series
of equi-distant circumferential grooves or depressions 62 located at the same distance
apart as desired for the bamboo strips in the finished stiffening fabric, the inter-
mediate ribs formed by said grooves being arranged to come together at the lines
of contact between the upper and lower rollers of each pair, so as to force into
contact with each other the layers of cloth between the stiffening strips during
the passage of the said cloth and strips between the rollers, as clearly shown in
Figure 15.
"
FF Figures 8, 9, 10 and 13 indicate curved guides or guards over which the two
layers of cloth indicated by G.G₁, are trained in their passage to the pair of
cylinders B, between which the cloth and.stiffening strips first pass in the operation
of the machine; these being the cylinders shown at the right hand in Figures 8,10
and 20. Said guards F, consist as herein shown, of curved metal plates which are
attached at their ends to the machine standards A A by brackets or arms ff bolted
to the said standards. The principal purpose of said guards F, is to hold the cloth
from contact with the heated cylinders until the several parts are about to be brought
together between the latter.
The machine herein shown is more especially adapted for the manufacture of
stiffening of the character above described of that class in which the stiffening
strips are made of bamboo splints arranged in two thicknesses or layers, and said
machine is provided with guide devices adapted to bring the separate splints or
layers into proper relative position, and to direct the duplex strips between the
layers of cloth and into place in the grooves of the cylinders. To these ends the
said guide devices are constructed as follows;
I is a rigid horizontal cross-bar attached at its ends to the frame pieces A A, and
supporting, between the guide-plates F, the several parts which operate to guide
the strips. I is a guide-plate attached to the bar I, and extending inwardly
toward the meeting line of the cylinders B B, said plate being provided upon its
upper surface with a series of upwardly projecting guide-plates i, arranged side by
side and adapted to separate and laterally confine the several strips in their passage
toward the cylinders. As herein shown, the guide plates are attached to the
plate by having their lower edges inserted in grooves formed transversely in
said plate I, but said guide plates i may in practice be otherwise secured to the
plate 1, as found desirable or convenient. The parts indicated by I* are a series
of spring guide-fingers attached at their outer ends to a cross-piece 1° which is
sustained above and parallel with the plate I, the said fingers extending inwardly
between the adjacent surfaces of the upper and lower cylinders. Said fingers are
provided at their inner ends with depending flanges or wings engaging the
opposite sides of the strips, and resting at their lower edges upon the surface of
the lower cylinder at both sides of the grooves 62 therein, so as to guide the strips
accurately into said grooves 62; the extremities of said guide fingers being held
forcibly in contact with the lower roller, so as to press or force the strips into the
grooves of the said lower roller, together with the cloth carried to said lower roller
over the lower guide-plate F, as clearly shown in Figure 13.
I* I* are a second series of spring-fingers attached to the bar 13 over the fingers I'
and extending inwardly over the plate I¹ and terminating short of the ends of the
fingers 12, said spring-fingers I being employed for the purpose of pressing down-
wardly into contact with the lower layers H of the stiffening strips, the upper
layers H at a point above or adjacent to the plate I¹; the upper strips H' being kept

page_text: separate from the lower strips H by being guided over a cross-bar I³ which is sustained
by arms or brackets I from the machine-frame (Figure 13). The horizontal plate I¹
and guide-plates i, are preferably extended inwardly nearly to the flanges or
wings upon the fingers I and the said plates i are extended upwardly in their
inner portions so as to engage and hold from lateral movement the fingers 12 and I*
and to form lateral guides for the strips extending nearly to the said guide-
flanges of the fingers 12. To enable the extremities of the fingers I and I' to be
adjusted vertically, so that said fingers will act with more or less pressure upon
the strips as desired; the bar 13 to which the fingers are attached, is rotatably
supported at its ends in lugs 17 upon the plate I and is provided with a rigid
arm adjustably connected at its free end with a part of the machine frame in
such manner that the bar 13 may be partially rotated and held in its changed
position, for the purpose above stated. The particular means shown for adjustably
connecting the arm witir the frame, consists of a bar pivoted at one end to the
said arm and provided at its opposite end with a set-screw i adapted to bear upon
the front margin of the plate 1 as clearly shown in the drawings, Figure 13.
The plate is in the particular construction shown, detachably connected with
the supporting-bar I, so that said plate and the several parts connected therewith
may be removed from the machine as may be required for cleaning the parts, and
for other purposes. A convenient means for securing the said plate I' in place is
illustrated in the drawings, wherein the bar I is shown as provided with pins 25
which are fitted to apertures in a vertical flange upon the plate I', which flange
extends downwardly over the front of the bar I, said plate being held in place by
levers or buttons 6 pivoted upon the bar I near the ends of the latter, and adapted
to be turned so as to engage the ends of the said flange, as clearly shown in
Figure 2.
In the operation of the parts described, the layers G G¹ previously coated upon
their adjacent faces with paste or other adhesive substance, are pressed into contact
with each other, with the strips between them, by the first pair of rollers, which,
as above stated are heated for the purpose of rapidly drying the paste as the
material passes between them. The passage of the stiffening between one pair of
cylinders is not, however, usually found to dry the paste sufficiently to permit the
immediate cutting or handling of the stiffening, and the second pair of heated
cylinders is therefore provided for more thoroughly drying the product.
The stiffening produced by the machine shown, is illustrated in section in
Figure 8, and in side view in Figure 10, G G¹ in said Figures indicating the layers
of cloth joining the stiffening strips and H H¹ the separate bamboo splints or layers
of which the strips are composed.
To prevent injury to the product by the heat of the cylinders, in case it becomes
necessary to arrest the movement of the latter while the stiffening is being formed,
horizontal guard plates J J' (Figure 10) are provided which are arranged in pairs
with one plate of each pair above and the other below the path of the product, said
plates being attached at their ends at the sides of the machine, to horizontally
sliding bars J2 J2 so arranged that when the cylinders are stopped and the lower
cylinders dropped away from the upper ones, the said bars may be moved so as to
carry the plates between the cylinders and the stiffening. The bars J2 J2 are
mounted to slide in suitable bearings upon the frame pieces A A, as indicated
at jj Figure 14, and are preferably united at their rear ends by means of a rod j¹
(Figures 8 and 10) which may be conveniently grasped by the hand in moving the
guard-plates. The lower guard-plate J¹ between the pairs of cylinders, obviously,
may serve to sustain the stiffening in a horizontal position in its passage from the
first to the second of said pairs of cylinders.
=
The apparatus for applying paste to the layers of cloth before they are carried to
the cylinders B B, is illustrated in Figures 18 and 19 and constructed as follows:-
KK are two rotating pasting cylinders or rollers connected by gears
to be rotated at the same speed, mounted upon a suitable table or frame L, and
located over two receptacles or paus L' L' in which is placed paste or other adhesive
so as

page_text: .
substance employed for joining the parts of the stiffening. The said rollers are as
shown, driven by a worm m intermeshing with a worm wheel M applied to the
shaft of one of said rollers, the worm being formed upon a shaft M¹ provided with
suitable belt-pulleys M' loosely mounted upon the shaft and connected therewith
by a clutch-device of simple form, indicated as a whole by M³ in the drawings.
The continuous pieces or webs G G¹ of cloth which form the cloth layers of the
stiffening are drawn from suitable receptacles L2 L2 or from reels upon which
they may be wound over suitable guide rollers L³ L³ located above the pasting
rollers K K, downwardly between said rollers, and then over suitably located
guide rollers, as L L%, to the cylinders B B of the machine which forms the
stiffening, the said cloth-webs or layers being brought into contact with each
other as they pass between said rollers, so that they are carried forward together
by the latter, and each receives at the same time a coating of paste from the said
rollers. To prevent the cloth from adhering to the rollers, and to keep it flat and
unwrinkled in passing from the latter, cylindric brushes K¹ K' revolving in the
same direction as the rollers K K are located below the latter in position to bear
upon opposite sides of the two layers of cloth. Said brushes are conveniently
driven by means of idlers k¹ k' intermeshing with the gear-wheels kk, and with
suitable gears upon the brush-shafts, as shown in Figure 18. For removing surplus
paste from the surfaces of the pasting-rollers K, small rollers K2 K2 are arranged
to bear upon the said pasting-rollers said rollers K2 K2 being, as herein illustrated,
mounted upon arms k² ² pivoted at ³ ³ to the frame L, and sustained in proper
position by set-screws k³ connecting the outer ends of the levers with the frame,
as shown, and serving as a means of adjusting the position of the rollers K³ when
found desirable or necessary. The set-screws in the particular construction
illustrated.are inserted through the arms 2 and engage a part of the frame L at
their lower ends, and the set-screws pass upwardly through blocks k upon the
frame, and abut at their ends against cross-bars 7 uniting the outer ends of the
arms. The rollers K² are preferably provided with pinions 8 intermeshing
with the gear-wheels kk, of the paste-rollers, whereby the said rollers K² are given
a positive rotary motion.
N N Figures 20 to 25 indicates the vertical side pieces of the frame of a cutting
apparatus, shown in the sectional view, Figure 20, as located upon the base A¹ in
proper position to operate upon the finished stiffening as the latter passes from
the rollers B B. The said cutting apparatus comprises essentially, a series of
revolving cutting disks O and an opposing grooved roller O¹ operating to cut or
slit the finished stiffening longitudinally.into strips of desired widths, and co-acting
stationary and reciprocating cutters P and P' located at the side of the cutting-
disks remote from the cylinders B, and operating to cut the strips formed by
said cutters O into pieces or batteries of desired lengths. The disk-cutters O are
mounted upon a shaft 02 (Figures 20 and 22) which together with the grooved
roller O¹ is mounted in side-pieces or castings N¹ attached to the frame pieces N N.
The shaft O and roller O¹ are provided with bearings ooo' o¹ the bearings o o
being secured by set screws n'n' in laterally opening recesses n n in the castings N¹
and the bearings o¹ being constructed to slide vertically in slots n² n² formed in
said castings, so as to enable the said grooved roller O¹ to be separated from the
cutting disks O, as found necessary for adjusting the parts, and for other purposes.
The said bearings o¹ o¹ are sustained by standards 03 which rest at their lower
ends upon excentrics QQ mounted upon a shaft Q₁ which has bearings in standards
99 upon the base A¹ and is provided with an actuating lever Q2 (shown in dotted
lines in Figure 20 and in Figure 22) constructed and operating in the same manner
as the lever C³ shown in Figure 8, and above described. The shaft 02 supporting
the cutting disks, and the shaft O' of the roller O¹ are provided with intermeshing
gear-wheels 05 and 06; motion for driving the cutting disks and the opposing
rollers being transmitted to the shaft O by means of a worm-wheel o² fixed to the
shaft, and a worm o³ upon a shaft of provided with belt pulleys 05, as shown in
Figure 22 and in dotted lines in Figure 20.

page_text: The cutting disks O are made thin in their marginal portions and sharpened
upon their edges, in a familiar manner, and are adapted to enter and fit closely in
the grooves of of the roller O¹ the said cutting disks being mounted to move freely
longitudinally but not to rotate upon the shaft 02, so that they are held in proper
position laterally, solely by their engagement with the said grooves.
In the
particular construction illustrated, the cutting disks are made of thin sheet metal,
and provided with central hubs, which are fitted to slide upon the shaft O' the
latter being provided with a spline o' engaging suitable notches in the hubs, as
clearly shown in the drawings, Figures 20 and 22. The surface of the roller 01
between the grooves oⓇ is preferably depressed to form a second series of shallow
grooves o corresponding in size and distance apart with the grooves 62 of the
lower cylinders B B. In the operation of the machine the stiffening passing from
the said cylinders and over the roller O¹ is severed by the cutting disks, acting in
connection with the grooves of of the said roller, along the spaces between the
strips.
The lower knife P for cutting the stiffening transversely is secured at its ends to
the vertical frame pieces N N and the movable or reciprocating knife P¹ is attached
at its ends to sliding blocks P2 P2 held and guided in vertical grooves n³ formed in
the inner faces of said frame-pieces, the reciprocating knife P₁ having an inclined
cutting edge and being arranged to move downwardly past the stationary knife, in
a familiar manner. The means shown for actuating the knife consist of a shaft P³
mounted in suitable bearings n¹ n' at the upper ends of the frame-pieces N N and
provided with excentrics p engaging yokes P4 attached to the upper ends of
vertical bars Ps attached to the blocks P. The shaft P3 is actuated by means of a
belt-pulley P which is mounted loosely upon the shaft, said pulley and shaft being
provided with a clutch device whereby the pulley may be connected with and
disconnected from the shaft, so as to cause the operation of the cutter at desired
intervals.
A clutch device of familiar form is shown in the drawing, Figure 21 which is
adapted to become automatically disengaged after a single rotation of the pulley
and shaft and after each downward movement of the reciprocating knife P' caused
by such rotation.
The said clutch comprises a collar p¹ mounted upon the shaft adjacent to the hub
of the wheel P and provided with one or more projections or stops p³ in its side
nearest said hub, a sliding-spring dog p³ mounted in the said hub in a position
parallel with the axis of the shaft and adapted to engage the said stop p², a second
radially movable, spring-dog p* adapted to engage a notch in the dog pa so as to
hold the latter in its retracted position, and free from the said stop p², and a
movable cam-plate p* (Figures 21, 23, 23 23b 23°) provided with a laterally
inclined cam-face p adapted to engage the end of the dog p³ so as to throw the
latter inwardly, and with a second outer inclined or cam face p² (Figure 23°)
adapted to engage a lateral projection p10 (Figures 23a 23b) upon the dog p' in
such manner as to draw the latter outwardly, and thereby release it from engage-
ment with the dog p³, said cam-plate being mounted upon a sliding-rod p³ arranged
in suitable bearings upon the frame-piece N, radial to the centre of the shaft, 4
whereby the cam-plate may be moved toward and from the said shaft. The said
cam-plate is so constructed and located that when at the inward limit of its
movement, the inclined surface pe thereof will be engaged by the dog p³ while the
dog p will freely pass the cam surface p' and when said plate is at the outward
limit of its movement, the said surface p' will engage and throw outwardly the 5
dog p and the dog p³ will be allowed to pass the plate without contact therewith.
The relative position and operation of the parts above mentioned is more clearly
shown in Figures 23, 23ª and 23. In Figure 23, the spring-dog p₁ is shown as
engaged with the notch in the dog 2 so as to hold the latter at the inward limit
of its movement and free from the stop, this being the position of the parts when 5
the wheel P is running freely upon the shaft. In Figures 23 and 23b the dogs p³
and p are shown in the position maintained by them when the wheel is connected

page_text: with the shaft, and with the cam-plate p³ engaged with the said dog p³ and in its
position when about to move said dog for disconnecting the clutch. In this case
the dog p is held at the outward limit of its movement by engagement with the
outer surface of the dog p³; the spring which actuates said dog p' holding the
latter against the said dog p³ so that when the dog på is pushed back by the cam-
plate said dog p will engage the notch of the dog p³. When said dog p* is at the
outward limit of its movement, as above described, the projection p10 thereon is
free from the cam-plate, which latter will at such time be at the inward limit of
its radial movement and in position for the engagement of its lateral cam surface pe
with the end of the dog p³.
In the operation of the clutch device described the pulley, when rotating freely
upon the shaft, as shown in Figures 21 and 23, is connected with the shaft by
drawing the cam-plate p³ outwardly whereby the outer cam surface p7 is caused
to engage and draw outwardly the dog p' so as to release the dog p³ and allow it
to spring into position to engage the stop p². If the cam-plate is then immediately
restored to its original position adjacent to the shaft, the end of the dog p³ at the
completion of one revolution of the pulley and shaft, will encounter the cam-face p
(as shown in Figures 23 23b) and will be thereby thrust inwardly until free from
the pin p² when it will be engaged and held by the dog pt. A spring p³ is connected
with the rod ps so as to hold the cam-plate normally in its inward position, so that
when the rod is released after being drawn outwardly to throw the clutch into
engagement, the clutch will become automatically disengaged after a single rotation
of the shaft. As herein illustrated the spring p is attached at one end to the
frame-piece N, and at its opposite end to a horizontal pivoted bar S through the
medium of which, in the particular construction illustrated, the rod p³ is moved.
One practical means of actuating the rod pa so as to cause the rotation of the
shaft P3 and the operation of the cutter at desired intervals is shown in Figures 20
to 24. In this case the bar S, which is pivoted at s to the machine frame and
connected with the rod po at a point between its pivotal point and its free end, is
adapted to engage, at said free end, a pin si fixed in a revolving ratchet-wheel S¹
mounted upon a shaft s having bearings in a suitable frame S² and actuated by
means of a pawl 83 mounted upon the end of an oscillating arm S³. Said arm is
attached to a gear-wheel S which latter is actuated by means of a sliding rack-bar
which is given a reciprocating movement through the medium of a rod 8* connecting
said rack-bar with a crank-pin 8 secured in a rotating disk S actuated by suitable
gearing from one of the cylinders B; The said crank-pin 85 is adjustable radially
in the disk, so as to enable the throw of the rack-bar and consequently the extent
of rotation of the wheel S₁ at each revolution of the disk to be changed as desired.
By adjusting the position of said crank-pin the said wheel S₁ may obviously be
given a complete revolution during a greater or less number of rotations of the
disk Se so that the pin s¹ will engage and move the bar S, and thereby cause the
operation of the cutter more or less frequently, according to the length of the pieces
it is desired to cut from the stiffening. In the particular construction of the parts
illustrated, the disk S is actuated by a gear-wheel intermeshing with one of the
gears B of the upper cylinder B (Figures 20 and 24) and the pin 8 is secured in
a "T" groove 86 in the face of the said disk by the familiar construction illustrated
in Figure 24.
Another and for some reasons a preferred construction in a device for regulating
the length of the pieces or batteries cut from the stiffening by the cutters P P¹, is
illustrated in Figures 25 and 26. In this case the lever S is depressed at desired
intervals to actuate the clutch-device by means of a series of knobs or studs t,
secured at equal distances apart upon a bolt T, which is trained over two
pulleys T T mounted upon suitable bearings at the side of the machine-frame.
In the particular construction illustrated, the pulley T' is secured to and revolves
with the idler B6 shown in Figure 1 as employed to transmit motion from one to
the other of the pairs of rollers B B, and the pulley T' is mounted upon a stud t¹
secured in a horizontal slot t2 in a bracket or standard T³ upon the bed A' in such

page_text: manner that the pulleys T and T may be separated or brought together to pro-
vide for longer or shorter belts. The stud t¹ is as shown in the drawings
(Figure 26), shouldered, and provided with a nut t³ to enable it to be readily
moved in the slot 2 and secured in its changed position in the said slot. In
the use of this device the frequency with which the cutter P¹ is operated, will
obviously be determined by the distance apart of the studs t upon the belt, so that
by placing a greater or less number of studs upon the belt, or by using belts of
different lengths, in case this is necessary in order to enable the studs to be spaced
equally at desired distances apart, pieces of stiffening of desired lengths may be
accurately cut by the machine. The bar S is, in this case, desirably provided with
a movable projection or stud 87 arranged in position for engagement with the
studs t upon the belt, and adapted to be shifted upon said bar S, as found necessary
in changing the distance apart of the studs t, or the length of the belt and position
of the pulley T. In the construction shown in Figure 25, the spring p is shown
as placed around the rod p³ instead of being connected with the bar S, as is the
case in the construction illustrated in Figures 21 and 23.
The device for regulating the operation of the cutters P' shown in Figures 25
and 26 and last above described, is therefore herein claimed as part of our
invention.
It is obvious that the grooved cylinders B B may be replaced by a pair of
cylinders one of which is provided with grooves sufficiently deep to receive the full
thickness of the strips, and the other of which is smooth or without grooves, as
illustrated in Figure 27, the product in this case obviously being flat upon one
side. It is to be understood, therefore, that the term "grooved cylinders" as
employed in the appended claims, covers a pair of cylinders consisting of one
grooved and one smooth cylinder, as well as the two grooved cylinders described.
It is obvious that the machine described may be employed in constructing
stiffening of single strips secured to one layer of cloth. In making stiffening of
this character, two opposing rollers, one of which is smooth and the other grooved,
will usually be employed, such as illustrated in Figure 27 and above referred to, in
which is illustrated a stiffening made of single strips H, and a single layer of cloth G.
It has been found that in making the stiffening above described, especially in
the use of thin cloth for the layers G G, that paste is liable to strike through the
said layers so as to come in contact with the heated rollers, and thereby cause the
cloth to stick to said rollers. This difficulty may be remedied by applying a
coating of paste to, and allowing it to dry upon the cloth, before the latter is fed
to the machine the paste being moistened as it passes to the rollers by jets of
steam or otherwise. By this means the moist paste is prevented from striking
through the cloth, by reason of the body of dried paste which fills the latter, but
the process mentioned is objectionable inasmuch as it requires an additional
handling of the material used for the layers; and a better way of avoiding the
difficulty mentioned, is to prepare the paste by mixing therewith a small quantity
of paraffine which I have found to effectually prevent the cloth from sticking to
the cylinders.
The stiffening strips employed in making the stiffening as hereinbefore set forth,
will usually be fed to the machine in continuous lengths or strands, formed by
securing together end to end by glue or otherwise, pieces of stiffening material of
the usual lengths obtainable.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is
1. The method of constructing corsets having body stiffening strips of bamboo
or analogous material which consists in first forming a composite stiffening web by
connecting together a plurality of stiffening strips arranged parallel with each
other with spaces between them, then cutting the stiffening web to a length shorter
than the height of the corset, then applying the said length or battery between the

page_text: layers of cloth which form the body. of the corset, and thereafter securing the
battery, and the several strips thereof in place by stitching through both layers of
the corset and through the battery between the stiffening strips of the latter,
substantially as described.
2. The herein described web of composite stiffening fabric for employment in
the bodies of corsets said fabric comprising two layers of cloth or other flexible
material of continuous length and a plurality of narrow bamboo strips placed
parallel with each other between said layers with spaces between said strips in
which spaces the inclosing fabrics are brought into contact with each other and
there secured, the said spaces being of such narrow width that single rows of
stitching, one row in each space, will closely confine the strips.
3. The herein described. web of composite stiffening fabric for employment in
the bodies of corsets, the same comprising two layers of cloth or other flexible
material of continuous length and a plurality of narrow, parallel, bamboo, strips
placed between said layers and separated from each other by narrow spaces in which
spaces the inclosing layers are brought together and there secured to each other,
each of said bamboo strips consisting of two layers or thicknesses of the bamboo
or analogous stiffening material.
4. The herein described web of composite stiffening fabric for employment in
the bodies of corsets, the said web comprising two layers of cloth or other flexible
material of continuous length and a plurality of parallel, duplex bamboo strips
placed between said layers and separated from each other by narrow spaces the
inclosing layers being brought together and secured to each other between the
strips by adhesive material.
5. A machine for making flat corset stiffening fabric of that kind which is
composed of a series of parallel stiffening strips secured between two adhering
layers of cloth or similar material, said machine, comprising two opposing parts
constructed to force the layers of cloth into contact with each other between the
strips, means for producing pressure of one of said parts towards the other and
means for heating one or both of said parts, substantially as described.
6. A machine for making corset stiffening fabric of the character described,
comprising two revolving cylinders and means for producing a pressure of one
cylinder upon the other to force the parts of the stiffening together, one or both
of said cylinders being provided with circumferential grooves forming openings or
spaces for the strips, which openings are located in the same plane with the inter-
mediate meeting surfaces of the cylinders, and means for heating the said cylinders,
substantially as described.
7. An apparatus for making corset stiffening fabric of the kind which consists of
parallel stiffening-strips secured between two adhering layers of cloth, said apparatus
comprising two opposing parts and means producing a pressure of one of said
parts upon the other to force the elements of the stiffening into contact with each
other, one or both of said opposing parts being grooved to receive the stiffening
strips, a pasting device for applying paste to one or both of the cloth layers, and
means for heating one or both of said opposing parts of the apparatus whereby
the paste is dried while the cloth-layers are held together by said opposing parts,
substantially as described.
8. In an apparatus for making stiffening fabric, the combination with means
operating to press a layer or layers of cloth into contact with a series of stiffening
strips, of a cutting device operating to sever the product longitudinally, a second
cutting device operating to sever said product transversely, and adjustable means
for controlling the operation of the transversely cutting device, whereby pieces of
different lengths may be cut from the continuous stiffening fabric, substantially as
described.
9. The combination, with two revolving grooved cylinders B B, and means for
beating the cylinders, of stationary guards F F for holding the layers of cloth
from contact with the said cylinders until said layers are brought together between
the cylinders, substantially as described.

page_text: 10. The combination, with two revolving grooved cylinders B B, of a series of
spring guide fingers 1' provided with lateral wings or flanges i substantially as
described.
11. The combination, with two revolving grooved cylinders B B, of a plate
provided with a series of transverse guide-plates i, a series of spring guide-
fingers I provided with lateral flanges and a second series of spring guide
fingers I substantially as described.
12. The combination, with two revolving cylinders. B B, one of said cylinders
being movable toward, and from the other so that said cylinders may be separated
from each other when desired, of movable guard plates J J¹ adapted to enter
between the cylinders when the latter are apart, substantially as described.
13. The combination, in an apparatus for making corset-stiffening fabric of the
character described, of two revolving, grooved cylinders B B, a pasting device
comprising two opposing pasting rollers, means guiding two layers of cloth together
between said rollers, and guides (as L L³) located in position to separate the said
layers after they have left the pasting rollers, and to direct said layers to the
grooved cylinders B B with their pasted surfaces adjacent to each other, sub-
stantially as described.
14. In an apparatus for making corset stiffening, the combination with two
opposing pasting rollers, and means constructed to guide two layers of cloth
together between said rollers, of revolving brush-rollers located at the exit side of
the said pasting rollers, and acting upon the opposite sides of the two layers of
cloth, substantially as described.
15. In an apparatus for manufacturing stiffening fabric of the character
described, the combination with two revolving grooved cylinders B B, a device
for severing longitudinally the product passing from the cylinders and consisting
of a roller O¹ provided with a series of narrow grooves of and a series of cutting
disks O mounted upon a shaft O' and engaging with said grooves of the cutting
disks and grooves being located in alignment with the spaces between the grooves
of the cylinders B B, substantially as described.
16. In a machine for making stiffening fabric of the character described, the
combination with two revolving cylinders, of a cutting device for severing the
stiffening transversely comprising a reciprocating knife and driving connections
for actuating the knife embracing a clutch device, a pivoted lever S, connected
with and actuating said clutch device, a travelling belt T provided with studs or
projections t engaging the lever S, and two pulleys sustaining said belt, one of said
pulleys being driven from one of the said cylinders, substantially as described.
17. An apparatus for making corset stiffening fabric and cutting the same into
lengths by a continuous operation, said apparatus comprising means for applying
an adhesive substance to a continuous strip or strips of cloth, means operating to
press together the strip or strips of cloth and a series of parallel stiffening strips of
bamboo or similar material, means operating to sever the stiffening fabric longi-
tudinally between the stiffening strips after the parts composing the stiffening
fabric have been secured together, and means controlled by the movement of the
pressing devices, operating to cut the stiffening into short lengths, substantially as
described.