Improvements in the Method of Sewing Boots and Shoes and in Means or Apparatus Employed therein.
Year: 1888

page_text: Date of Application, 17th Sept., 1888
Complete Specification Left, 13th June, 1889-Accepted, 20th July, 1889
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Method of Sewing Boots and Shoes and in
Means or Apparatus Employed therein.
We ZACHARY TAYLOR FRENCH and WILLIAM CRISTIAN MEYER both of Boston
Suffolk County in the State of Massachusetts one of the United States of America
Machinists do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention has for its object to improve that class of Sewing machinery for
sewing welted and turned work, the machine using a curved needle and awl sub-
stantially such as described in the Specification of Charles Frederic Gardner Patent
No. 14059, dated October 23, 1884.
In other sole sewing machines of the class to which this invention relates wherein
a hooked needle is employed to attach the channeled sole to the upper, the needle
has commonly first entered the welt or upper and then passed into and through
the so-called between substance," or that part of the sole between the channels, the
point of the needle emerging from the innermost channel in the sole and taking
the thread from a thread-guide, and drawing it through the stock, leaving the chain
of the stitch either on the welt, or on the lining of the upper.
In machines drawing the loop outwardly, as described, the "between substance"
especially for welted work is usually penetrated vertically and held while the stitch
is being set by the pull only of the needle, for otherwise, the "between substance,"
especially if not of the best material, would be cut through, for at such time the
strain upon the thread is very considerable, for such strain has to be and is sufficient
to not only set and finish the previous stitch, but also to draw from the waxing device
enough thread for the next stitch, and because of the duty to be performed by
the needle, the latter has to be made very strong so as not to break or spring,
and further, the thread drawn by the needle as described, from the waxing device,
slides or rends through the hooked part of the needle and is frayed and frequently
broken.
It is a great desideratum to make the needle as fine as possible and the thread
as large as possible, but where the needle draws and sets the stitch and also pulls
off the thread the minimum sized needle cannot be employed.
Making the stitch by pulling the thread from the innermost channel outwardly
through the upper, produces an outward stretching strain upon the sole, a strain
resisted only by the "between substance," whereas if the strain on the thread or
the loop of the chain were in the opposite direction it would be resisted by the
upper extended about the last; and further an inward drawing of the loop causes
the welt and upper to be drawn more snugly to the sole than when the strain on
the loop is outward.
Experiments have been made to obviate the objectionable outward strain referred.
to, and the position of the hooked needle has been reversed so as to enter the inner
cbannel and penetrate the "between substance," the upper, and the welt, and draw
the loops back leaving the loop in inner channel, but such experiments have been
unsatisfactory, because in thin soles the presence of the loops of the chain stitch in
the channel leaves an objectionable ridge, and so also by this plan the needle was.,
obliged to set the stitch and draw off thread, as before described, and was con- .
sequently, for reasons given objectionable.
The latter plan was also found further objectionable because the needle when it
did not exactly follow the awl caused the formation of a large stitch hole in the…
welt and upper, causing the shoe to grin.
In our experiments to overcome the objections referred to we have succeeded in
producing a machine wherein the strains on the shoe are inwardly when the stitch

page_text: is being set, instead of outwardly, and yet we leave the chain of the stitch on
the welt or on the lining of the upper according to whether a welted or turned
shoe is being stitched or sewed.
To do this required the production of a machine having besides the needle and
awl, an independent take-up which is operated in such order of time with relation
to the needle that the take-up performs the sole duty of setting the stitch, it acting
to set the stitch while the needle is in the stock, and while the shank of the needle
is yet in the loop of thread last drawn by the needle through the stock, each stitch
being thus set before the loop of the next stitch is drawn through the stock, the
said take-up at its extreme stroke pulling from the waxing device enough thread
for the next stitch and leaving it to be taken up and held or cared for by an
auxiliary take-up, the latter giving up to the needle the thread so drawn off as
the needle is being drawn back through the stock, the needle drawing upon sub-
stantially slack thread while passing back through the stock. The needle having
emerged from the stock with the loop of thread gives to the loop a sufficient pull
to draw the thread of the loop being formed snugly back to the previous stitch
leaving it taut on the welt or on the lining of the upper of the shoe but at such
time the thread does not rend through the hook of the needle.
With the described auxiliary take-up we have combined a thread-holder the purpose
and function of which is to act upon the thread between the stock and thread guide
and draw from the supply of thread held by the auxiliary take-up enough thread for
the next stitch to be made thus obviating the rending of the thread through the
hook of the needle and leaving substantially slack thread for the needle to draw
upon while pulling the loop through the stock.
Our invention in sewing machine consists essentially in a hooked needle to enter
the upper and sole and emerge therefrom in the inner channel thereof and a thread
guide to supply the hook of the needle with thread, combined with a take-up and a
cam to operate it whereby the thread is drawn upon by the take-up to set the stitch
while the needle is in the material and also draw off thread from the thread supply,
substantially as will be described.
Also in a sole sewing machine, a hooked needle to enter the upper and sole and
emerge therefrom in the inner channel thereof, and a thread guide to supply the hook
of the needle with thread, combined with a main take-up, a cam to actuate it to draw
the thread and set the stitch while the needle is in the stock and the loop of thread
last drawn through the stock is yet on the shank of the needle, and at the same time
to draw off thread for a new stitch and with an auxiliary spring actuated take-up to
take up the slack in the needle thread drawn off by the main take-up and thereafter
give up the said slack thread to the needle as the latter acts to draw a loop of thread
through the stock substantially as will be described.
Also, in a sole sewing machine, the take-up, the thread guide, and the hooked
needle, combined with the thread holder and its attached rocking shaft whereby the
thread holder is made to act upon the needle-thread between the thread-guide and
the stock and while the needle is in the stock is yet on the shank of the needle
the said thread-holder taking from the take-up through the thread guide and before the
thread-guide acts to lay the thread into the hook of the needle, a sufficient quantity of
thread to prevent it rending through the book of the needle as the loop is being drawn
by the needle through the stock, substantially as will be described.
Our invention also includes a novel method of manufacturing boots and shoes which
consists in pulling a loop of thread outwardly through the "between substance," and
upper, to the outer side thereof, then moving the shoe, and again thrusting the needle
with the loop on its shank through first the upper and then the "between substance,"
and while the needle is in the said "between substance" with the loop last drawn
through the upper yet extended about the shank of the needle outside the upper,
drawing upon the thread between the said "between substance" and thread supply
sufficiently to draw the said loop about the said needle to set the stitch substantially
as will be described.
Also, that improvement in the art or method of making boots and shoes, which

page_text: "
consists in setting the stitch by drawing the thread down and about the needle from
the outer side of the upper to and through the "between substance to the inner
side of the channel, substantially as will be described.
The framework of the so called head of the machine, the cam-shaft, the awl-actuating
lever, the awl-carrying lever, the awl, the channel guide, its carrying lever, the cam
to actuate it, the feed cam, the lever actuated thereby and pivotted and slotted to
receive a stud extended outwardly from the horizontally sliding carriage having a
depending portion holding the fulcrum for the levers carrying the awl and the
channel guides, to thus move them horizontally when the awl is in the leather so
as to feed the shoe for the length of stitch to be made, the welt guide, the thread
guide or looper, the carrying lever to operate it, the hooked needle, its guide, the
needle segment pivotted, the link to connect it with the lever to move the needle,
the sliding guage against which the upper on the last is pressed and rests while
the stitch is being made, and the locking mechanism for the said sliding guage are
much as usual.
In carrying out the improvements: On the fixed stad we have mounted an elbow
lever actuated by a suitable cam this lever having an ear bored to embrace the
fixed stud so as to prevent the lateral movement of the elbow lever from the
said stud.
The elbow lever is jointed by a link with an arm of a short sleeve mounted
loosely on a stud held by a screw the opposite end of the said sleeve having an arm
provided at its outer end with a roll, the said arm constituting a take-up.
The latter stud near its inner end receives upon it loosely a sheave over which
the thread passes from the usual waxing device on its way to the eye of the thread
guide.
The latter stud also receives loosely upon its inner end the auxilary take-up it
having at its end a roll the rear end of the lever being notched or cut away to
leave a projection to cooperate with a fixed stop forming a rigid part of the frame
work, the upper projection striking against the stop and limiting the upward move-
ment of the auxiliary take-up when lifted by the strain upon it of the thread passed
over the roll.
The under projection is normally kept against the stop by a suitable spring. We
have also added to the machine the lever, the cam having a cam groove to actuate
it, the said lever being connected by link with an arm of a short rock shaft to the
inner or opposite end of which is attached the thread holder the latter vibrating in
the arc of a circle just above the material being stitched or sewed.
While the needle is in the work, the take-up lever will be operated to draw upon
and pull taut about the shank of the needle the loop of thread held therein and
lying against the welt, the needle thread being at such time drawn back by the
said take-up through the eye of the thread guide.
The stitch next behind the needle having been fully taken up and set by the action
of the take-up and enough thread having been drawn from the usual waxing device
or thread supply for another stitch, the take-up descends quickly giving up its surplus
thread to the auxilary take-up which done, the thread holder is moved quickly back
taking with it the needle thread which is given up by the auxiliary take-up and then
the thread guide being started carries the thread around the needle and then the
needle is started on its return movement to draw the thread held by it through the
sole, the upper, the welt, and also through the loop previously drawn taut next
the work about the shank of the needle.
During this backward movement of the needle the thread holder is moved forward
so that it gradually gives up the thread held by it to the needle and the needle
thread as it is being drawn through the material by the needle is substantially free
from tension the only tension upon it is that due to a light spring.
This supply of thread given up to the needle and needed by the needle in going
back through the stock is sufficient to obviate any necessity of the thread being drawn
through the hook of the needle, but when the needle has drawn the loop through the
stock the needle is given a sufficient movement to draw into the inner channel of the

page_text: sole that part of the said loop which connects it to the last stitch, and thereafter
the awl enters and feeds the material in usual manner, and the needle again penetrates
the stock.
For turned work, for which this invention is equally well adapted the upper will be
lasted wrong side out, and of course the welt would be omitted, and in both cases the
chain part of the stitches will fall outside the "between substance" and not in the
channel.
Dated the 1-1
1
1000
WM. BROOKES & SON,
55 & 56, Chancery Lane, London, Agents for the Applicants.
QUAILLIE SITIATION.
Improvements in the Method of Sewing Boots and Shoes and in
Means or Apparatus Employed therein.
We ZACHARY TAYLOR FRENCH and WILLIAM CRISTIAN MEYER both of Boston
Suffolk County in the State of Massachusetts, one of the United States of America,
Machinists do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement :-
This invention has for its object to improve that class of sewing machinery for
sewing welted and turned work, the machine using a curved needle and awl sub-
stantially such as described in the specification of Charles Frederic Gardner
No. 14059, dated Oct. 23, 1884.
"
In other sole sewing machines of the class to which this invention relates a hooked
needle is employed to attach the channeled sole to the upper, the needle has commonly
first entered the welt or upper and then passed into and through the so-called
between-substance," or that part of the sole between the channels, the point of the
needle emerging from the innermost channel in the sole and taking the thread from a
thread-guide, and drawing it through the stock, leaving the chain of the stitch either
on the welt, or on the lining of the upper.
In machines drawing the loop outwardly, as described, the "between substance,"
especially for welted work, is usually penetrated vertically and held while the stitch
is being set by the pull only of the needle, for otherwise, the "between substance,"
especially if not of the best material, would be cut through, for at such time the
strain upon the thread is very considerable, for such strain has to be and is sufficient
to not only set and finish the previous stitch, but also to draw from the waxing device
enough thread for the next stitch, and because of the duty to be performed by the
needle, the latter has to be made very strong so as not to break or spring, and
further, the thread drawn by the needle, as described, from the waxing device, slides
or rends through the hooked part of the needle and is frayed and frequently broken.
It is a great desideratum to make the needle as fine as possible and the thread
as large as possible, but where the needle draws and sets the stitch and also pulls
off the thread the minimum sized needle cannot be employed.
Making the stitch by pulling the thread from the innermost channel outwardly
through the upper, produces an outward stretching strain upon the sole, a strain
resisted only by the "between substance," whereas if the strain on the thread or
loop of the chain were in the opposite direction it would be resisted by the upper
extended about the last; and further an inward drawing of the loop causes the
welt and upper to be drawn more snugly to the sole than when the strain on the
loop is outward.
Experiments have been made to obviate the objectionable outward strain referred
to, and the position of the hooked needle has been reversed so as to enter the inner
channel and penetrate the "between substance," the upper, and the welt, and draw
the loops back leaving the loop in the inner channel, but such experiments have

page_text: been unsatisfactory, because in thin soles the presence of the loops of the chain
stitch in the channel leaves an objectionable ridge, and so also by this plan the
neeedle was obliged to set the stitch and draw off thread, as before described, and
was consequently, for reasons given objectionable.
The latter plan was also found further objectionable because the needle when it
did not exactly follow the awl caused the formation of a large stitch hole in the
welt and upper, causing the shoe to grin.
In our experiments to overcome the objections referred to we have succeeded in
producing a inachine wherein the strains on the shoe are inwardly when the stitch is
being set, instead of outwardly, and yet we leave the chain of the stitch on the welt or
on the lining of the upper according to whether a welted or turned shoe is being
stitched or sewed.
To do this required the production of a machine having besides the needle and awl,
an independent take-up which is operated in such order of time with relation to the
needle that the take-up performs the sole duty of setting the stitch, it acting to set the
stitch while the needle is in the stock and while the shank of the needle is yet in
the loop of thread last drawn by the needle through the stock, each stitch being thus
set before the loop of the next stitch is drawn through the stock, the said take-up at
its extreme stroke pulling from the waxing device enough thread for the next stitch
and leaving it to be taken up and held or cared for by an auxiliary take-up, the latter
giving up to the needle the thread so drawn off as the needle is being drawn back
through the stock, the needle drawing upon substantially slack thread while passing
back through the stock. The needle having emerged from the stock with the loop of
thread gives to the loop a sufficient pull to draw the thread of the loop being formed
snugly back to the previous stitch, leaving it taut on the welt, or on the lining of the
upper of the shoe, but at such time the thread does not rend through the book of the
needle.
With the described auxiliary take-up we have combined a thread-holder, the
purpose and function of which is to act upon the thread between the stock and
thread guide and draw from the supply of thread, held by the auxiliary take-up
enough thread for the next stitch to be made, thus obviating the rending of the thread
through the hook of the needle and leaving substantially slack thread for the needle
to draw upon while pulling the loop through the stock.
Our invention in sewing machine consists essentially in a hooked needle to enter
the upper and sole and emerge therefrom in the inner channel thereof, and a thread
guide to supply the hook of the needle with thread, combined with a take-up, and a
cam to operate it whereby the thread is drawn upon by the take-up to set the stitch
while the needle is in the material, and also draw off thread from the thread supply,
substantially as will be described.
Also, in a sole sewing machine, a hooked needle to enter the upper and sole and
emerge therefrom in the inner channel thereof, and a thread guide to supply the book
of the needle with thread, combined with a main take-up, a cam to actuate it to draw
the thread and set the stitch while the needle is in the stock and the loop of thread
last drawn through the stock is yet on the shank of the needle, and at the same time
to draw off thread for a new stitch, and with an auxiliary spring actuated take-up to
take up the slack in the needle thread drawn off by the main take-up, and thereafter
give up the said slack thread to the needle as the latter acts to draw a loop of thread
through the stock, substantially as will be described.
Also, in a sole sewing machine, the take-up, the thread-guide, and the hooked
needle, combined with the thread-holder and its attached rocking shaft whereby the
thread holder is made to act upon the needle-thread between the thread-guide and
the stock and while the needle is in the stock and the loop of the thread last drawn
through the stock is yet on the shank of the needle, the said thread-holder taking
from the take-up through the thread guide and before the thread-guide acts to lay
the thread into the hook of the needle, a sufficient quantity of thread to prevent it
rending through the hook of the needle as the loop is being drawn by the needle
through the stock, substantially as will be described.

page_text: Our invention also includes a novel method of manufacturing boots and shoes
which consists in pulling a loop of thread outwardly through the "between substance,"
and upper, to the outer side thereof, then moving the shoe, and again thrusting the
needle with the loop on its shank through first the upper and then the "between
substance," and while the needle is in the said "between substance" with the loop
last drawn through the upper yet extended about the shank of the needle outside
the upper. drawing upon the thread between the said "between substance" and
thread supply sufficiently to draw the said loop about the said needle to set the
stitch, substantially as will be described.
Also, that improvement in the art or method of making boots and shoes, which
consists in setting the stitch by drawing the thread down and about the needle
from the outer side of the upper to and through the "between substance" to the
inner side of the channel, substantially as will be described.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.
Fig. 1, in front elevation represents a sufficient portion of a sole sewing machine to
enable our invention to be understood.
Fig. 2, is a side elevation of Fig. 1.
Figs. 3, 4, 5 and 6 details in the formation of the stitch, in the manufacture of
shoes, and
Fig. 7, a detail showing the needle, the main and auxiliary take-up and the thread
holder, and other parts to be described.
The frame-work A of the so called head of the machine, the cam-shaft A¹, the
awl-actuating lever A2, the awl-carrying lever A³, the awl a, the channel guide a¹, its
carrying lever a², the cam A to actuate it, the feed cam A³, the lever A" actuated
thereby and pivoted at A7, and slotted at a³ to receive a stud a extended outwardly
from the horizontally sliding carriage B having a depending portion B' holding the
fulcrum for the levers carrying the awl and the channel guides, to thus move them
horizontally when the awl is in the latter so as to feed the shoe for the length of
stitch to be made, the welt guide as, the thread guide or looper B², the carrying
lever B to operate it, the hooked needle aº, its guide 8, the needle segment a pivoted
at as, the link B³ to connect it with the lever B to move the needle, the sliding
gauge B against which the upper on the last is pressed and rests while the stitch
is being made, and the locking mechanism for the said sliding gauge, are all common
in sole sewing machines now in use so need not be herein further described.
To the common parts referred to we have added parts which we will now describe :
On the stud b we have mounted an elbow lever Cactuated by a suitable cam C¹,
the shape of which is represented by dotted lines in Fig. 2, this lever as herein shown,
having an ear b₁ bored to embrace the fixed stud 6 so as to prevent the lateral
movement of the lever C from the said stud.
The elbow lever is jointed by a link ² with an arm (3 of a short sleeve C4
mounted loosely on a stud Cs held by a screw 2, the opposite end of the said sleeve
having an arm 62 provided at its outer end with a roll 63, the said arm & constituting
a take-up.
The stud C near its inner end receives upon it loosely a sheave 6* see full lines
Fig. 1 and dotted lines Figs. 2 & 7, over which the thread t passes from the usual
waxing device, not shown, on its way to the eye of the thread guide.
The latter stud C also receives loosely upon its inner end the auxiliary take-up 6º,
shown best in Fig. 7, it having at its end a roll 3, the rear end of the lever being
notched or cut away to leave projections as 4 and 5, to coöperate with a fixed stop 6
forming a rigid part of the frame work, the upper projection 4 striking against the
stop and limiting the upward movement of the auxiliary take-up when lifted by the
strain upon it of the thread t passed over the roll 6³.
The under projection 5 is normally kept against the stop 6 by a suitable spring 7.
We have also added to the machine the lever D, the cam D' having a cam groove D³.
to actuate it, the said lever pivoted at D³ being connected by link D* with an arm D³
of a short rock-shaft D, to the inner or opposite end of which is attached the thread

page_text: holder d, the latter vibrating in the arc of a circle just above the material being
stitched or sewed, as best shown by the large diagrams Fig. 3, to 6, wherein the sole
of the shoe is marked e, the between substance e, the upper e², the welt e³.
Referring first to Fig. 3, the needle is shown as thrust through the welt, the upper,
and the "between substance," the point of the needle emerging in the inner
channel 10.
With the parts in the positions Fig. 3, or while the needle is in the work, the
take-up lever will be operated to draw upon and pull taut about the shank of the
needle the loop 12 of thread held therein and lying against the welt, the needle thread
being at such time drawn back by the said take-up through the eye of the thread
guide B2.
The stitch next behind the needle baving been fully taken up and set by the action
of the take-up 2 as described and enough thread having been drawn from the usual
waxing device or thread supply for another stitch, the take-up 2 descends quickly
giving up its surplus thread to the auxiliary take-up 5, which done, the thread holder d
is moved quickly back from the position Fig. 3 to the position Fig. 4, taking with it
the needle thread & which is given up by the auxiliary take-up and then the thread
guide B² is started and following the dotted line course Fig. 5, carries the thread t
around the needle a, as shown in Fig. 5 and then the needle is started on its return
movement to draw the thread held by it through the sole, the upper, the welt, and also
through the loop 12 previously drawn taut next the work about the shank of the
needle.
During this backward movement of the needle from the position Fig. 5 to the
position Fig. 6, the thread holder d is moved forward into the position Figs. 3 and 6,
so that it gradually gives up the thread held by it to the needle, and so it wil be
understood from the description of the operation of the parts that the needle thread as
it is being drawn through the material by the needle is substantially free from tension,
that is the only tension upon it is that due to the light spring 7.
This supply of thread given up to the needle and needed by the needle in going
back through the stock is sufficient to obviate any necessity of the thread being
drawn through the hook of the needle, but when tho needle has drawn the loop
through the stock the needle is given a sufficient movement to draw into the inner
channel of the sole that part of the said loop which connects it to the last stitch,
the loop of which is represented by 12, and thereafter the awl a enters and feeds
the material in usual manner, and the needle moving from the position Fig. 6 again
penetrates the stock, as in Fig. 3.
For turned work, for which this invention is equally well adapted, the upper will
be lasted wrong side out, and of course the welt would be omitted, and in both cases
the chain part of the stitches will fall outside the "between substance," and not in
the channel.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said Inven-
tion and in what what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that
what we claim is :-
cam to
1. In a sole sewing machine, a hooked needle to enter the upper and sole and
emerge therefrom in the inner channel thereof, and a thread guide to supply the
hook of the needle with thread, combined with a take-up, as 3, and a
operate it whereby the thread is drawn upon by the take-up to set the stitch while
the needle is in the material, and to also draw off thread from the thread supply,
substantially as described.
2. In a sole sewing machine, a hooked needle to enter the upper and sole and
emerge therefrom in the inner channel thereof, and a thread guide to supply the hook
of the needle with thread, combined with a main take-up, a cam to actuate it to draw
the thread and set the stitch while the needle is in the stock and the loop of
thread last drawn through the stock is yet on the shank of the needle, and at the same
time to draw off thread for a new stitch, and with an auxiliary spring actuated
take-up to take up the slack in the needle thread drawn off by the main take-up, and

page_text: thereafter give up the slack thread to the needle as the latter acts to draw a loop of
thread through the stock, substantially as described.
3. In a sole sewing machine, the take-up, the thread guide, and the hooked needle,
combined with the thread-holder and its attached rocking shaft, whereby the thread holder
is made to act upon the needle thread between the thread guide and the stock and while
the needle is in the stock and the last loop of thread drawn through the stock is yet
on the shank of the needle, the said thread holder taking from the take-up through
the thread guide, before the thread guide acts to lay the thread into the hook of the
needle, a sufficient quantity of thread to prevent it rending through the hook of the
needle as the loop is being drawn by the needle through the stock, substantially as
described.
4. The herein described novel method of manufacturing boots and shoes, which
consists in pulling a loop of thread outwardly through the "between substance" and
upper to the outer side thereof, then moving the shoe, and thrusting the needle with
the loop on its shank through first the upper and then the "between substance" and
while the needle is in the said "between substance" with the loop last drawn through
the upper yet extended about the shank of the needle outside the upper, drawing upon
the thread between the said "between substance" and thread supply sufficiently to
draw the said loop about the said needle to set the stitch, substantially as described.
5. That improvement in the art or method of making boots and shoes, which
consists in setting the stitch by drawing the thread down and about the needle from
the outer side of the upper to and through the "between substance" to the inner side
of the channel, substantially as described.
Dated the 13th day of June 1889.
WM. BROOKES & SON,
55 & 56, Chancery Lane, London, Agents for the Applicants.