CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN CONSTRUCTING, ADAPTING, AND APPLYING DRESS FASTENERS TO VARIOUS PARTS OF DRESS FOR LADIES' OR GENTLEMEN'S USE
Year: 1877

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to John Wall, Jeweller, of Birmingham, in the County of
Warwick, and James Newman, Jeweller, of Small Heath, near Birmingham,
aforesaid, for the Invention of "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN CONSTRUCTING,
ADAPTING, AND APPLYING DRESS FASTENERS TO VARIOUS PARTS OF DRESS FOR
LADIES' OR GENTLEMEN'S USE"
Sealed the 22nd September 1877, and dated the 5th April 1877..
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said John Wall and James
Newnan at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 5th April 1877.
JOHN WALL, Jeweller, of Birmingham, in the County of Warwick, and JAMES
NEWMAN, Jeweller, of Small Heath, near Birmingham, aforesaid. "CERTAIN IM-
PROVEMENTS IN CONSTRUCTING, ADAPTING, AND APPLYING DRESS FASTENERS TO
VARIOUS PARTS OF DRESS FOR LADIES' OR GENTLEMEN'S USE."
First. At the back of solitaires we hinge or otherwise secure a folding, hinged, or
jointed frame cut out of thin metal, with suitable projections or studs secured
thereon for entering the holes of the cuff, when the back or hinged portion is closed,
and kept in position by a spring or otherwise, it partakes the shape and form of the
front part of the solitaire; the act of disconnecting is performed simply by pressing
a small detent or otherwise; the back or hinged frame is then at liberty, causing the
studs to extend sufficient to allow the cuff to be easily withdrawn over the hand
from the wearer's wrist without removing the solitaire from the cuff or article of
dress, at the same time allowing it to be easily drawn on again; the hinged frame
at the back collapses and closes by a slight pressure, and held in position by the
detent or spring before mentioned, or we take and secure to the back of a solitaire
(the front of which may be ornamented in any desirable way) a disc of thin metal
provided with an hollow bar or recess, in the end of which is provided a spring bolt,
and to which at each end is hinged a narrow bar carrying a stud; at the ends of the
said bars are indentations for catching into the spring bolts when brought together
by a slight pressure; and by pressing against the ends of the screw bolts the arms
will again be extended, throwing the studs sufficiently asunder for the cuff to be
withdrawn from the wrist, as before stated.
Second. We take the front part of a solitaire, having a small groove running

page_text: around one half of it, with its stud or projection for entering the cuff, cast or other-
wise secured to the back, and by taking another piece of sheet metal of suitable
shape, having a corresponding groove, also running around its edge, with the other
stud or projection secured thereto; one portion of this piece has a bar with a slot
in it working horizontally and centrally on a pin provided for it at the back; when
the two pieces of metal are together, and attached to each other by the pin or
projection working in the slot at the back, we take a piece of elastic or other
suitable spring secured at the ends, and insert it into the groove around the edge of
the solitaire; by this means we arrive at the same object; the elastic cord or spring
allows of great expansion, and the cuff, as in the other case, is easily connected or
otherwise. Solitaires, thus produced, may be varied in size, form, or material, ac-
cording to the purpose of dress for which they may be required; for instance,
solitaires in the form of an ordinary buckle hinged to a piece of metal forming the
back, on which is secured a central stud, and at the extreme end a suitable
projection with detent is formed, thus the straps of the shoe or article of dress
(which in the case of shoe straps would be eyeletted) is dropped over the stud, and
the buckle, being pressed down over the strap, is secured by the spring bolt con-
tained in it and the detent before mentioned.
Third. In forming scarf and other rings (or other dress fasteners) which we
make of the ordinary shape, in two pieces suitably hinged, and which are recessed
on the inside, and by a mechanical action or spring fitted in the recessed portion,
so that by applying a slight pressure to a projection on the outside, connected with
the spring, the ring immediately flios open, a very great desideratum, as it prevents
the ring having to be pulled up or down over the silk or other dress material; or
we may cut two slits in the one-half of the metal forming the ring, and so forin
them into a suitable spring or catch.
Fourth. In another arrangement for dress fasteners we take two pieces of flat
hollow metal, suitably curved or otherwise; near the butt joint in the centre we
secure a small hollow stud or ball at each end, in one of which we hinge a suitable
catch or fastener with a suitable projection or indent, and on the top of the other
ball or stud we cut out a suitable slot to receive the projection on the end of the
catch; through the two hollow bars of metal we insert a piece of elastic or other
spring, secured at the extreme ends of the pieces, also a thin piece of metal to give
to it the necessary rigidity.
Fifth. Our Invention to a mode of fastening where ordinary buttons are used.
We take an hollow stud of any suitable length, over which we pass two metal
buttons or suitable discs fitting loosely; we then form a flange at each end of the
stud by soldering or otherwise, so as to prevent the metal discs from coming off.
By this arrangement any number of thicknesses of wearing apparel may be easily
secured and regulated by the length of the hollow stud, thus entirely dispensing
with the sewing on of buttons.
Sixth. In forming metal slides for carrying velvet for ladies' lockets, with a suitable
bow and spring bolt, so arranged that when the free end of the bow is pressed
down, the indentation in the loose end of the bow will be secured by a projection
in the spring bolt corresponding with the indentation in the loose end of the bow;
the parts are immediately set free again by pressing the spring bolt.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed
by the said John Wall and James Newman in the Great Seal Patent Office
on the 26th September 1877.
$8
JOHN WALL, Jeweller, of Birmingham, in the County of Warwick, and JAMES
NEWMAN, Jeweller, of Small Heath, near Birmingham, aforesaid. CERTAIN IM-
PROVEMENTS IN CONSTRUCTING, ADAPTING, AND APPLYING DRESS FASTENERS TO
VARIOUS PARTS OF DRESS FOR LADIES' OR GENTLEMEN'S USE,"

page_text: First. At the back of solitaires we hinge or otherwise secure a folding, hinged, or
jointed frame cut out of thin metal, with suitable projections or studs secured
thereon for entering the holes of the cuff; when the back or hinged portion is
closed and kept in position by a spring or otherwise, it partakes the shape and form
of the front part of the solitaire. The act of disconnecting is performed simply by
pressing a small detent or otherwise; the back or hinged frame is then at liberty,
causing the studs to extend sufficient to allow the cuff to be easily withdrawn over
the hand from the wearer's wrist without removing the solitaire from the cuff or
article of dress, at the same time allowing it to be drawn on again. The hinged
frame at the back collapses and closes with a slight pressure, and is held in position
by the detent or spring before mentioned; or we take and secure to the back of a
solitaire (the front of which may be ornamented in any desirable way) a disc of
thin metal provided with a hollow bar or recess, in the end of which is provided a
spring bolt, and to which at each end is hinged a narrow bar carrying a stud. At
the ends of the said bars are indentations for catching into the spring bolt when
brought together by a slight pressure, and by pressing against the ends of the spring
bolt the arms will again be extended, throwing the studs sufficiently asunder for the
cuff to be withdrawn from the wrist, as before stated.
Second. We take the front of a solitaire having a small groove running around
one half of it, with its stud or projection for entering the button hole of the cuff cast
or otherwise secured to its back, and by taking another piece of sheet metal of
suitable shape, having a corresponding groove also running around its edge, with the
other stud or projection secured thereto; one portion of this piece has a bar with a
slot in it working horizontally and centrally on a pin provided for it at the back;
when the two pieces of metal are brought together and attached to each other by
the pin or projection working in the slot at the back, we take a piece of elastic or
other suitable spring secured at the ends and insert it into the groove around the
edge of the solitaire; by this means we arrive at the same object. The elastic cord
or spring allows of great expansion, and the cuff, as in the other case, is easily con-
nected, or otherwise. Solitaires thus produced may be varied in size, form, or
material, according to the purpose of dress for which they may be required; for
instance, we may form solitaires in the form of an ordinary buckle hinged to a piece
of metal forming the back on which is secured a central stud, and at the extreme
end a suitable projection with detent is formed; thus the straps of the shoe or
article of dress (which in the case of shoe straps would be eyeletted) is dropped
over the stud, and the buckle being pressed down over the strap is secured by the
spring bolt contained in it and the detent before mentioned.
Third. In forming scarf and other rings (or other dress fasteners) which we make
of the ordinary shape, in two pieces suitably hinged, and which are recessed on the
inside, and by a mechanical action or spring fitted in the recessed portion, that by
applying a slight pressure to a projection on the outside connected with the spring
the ring immediately flies open, which is a very great desideratum; or we may cut
two slits in the half of the metal forming the ring, and so form them into a suitable
spring or catch.
Fourth. Our Invention relates to a mode of fastenings where ordinary buttons
are used. We take a hollow stud of any suitable length, over which we pass two
metal buttons or suitable discs fitting loosely, or one may be rigidly secured to the
said stud; we then form a flange at each end of the stud, by soldering or otherwise,
so as to prevent the metal discs or buttons from coming off. By this arrangement
any number of thicknesses of wearing apparel may be easily secured and regulated
by the length of the hollow stud, thus entirely dispensing with the sewing on of
buttons.

page_text: removing bodily or in part the solitaire from the cuff or article of dress to which it
may be applied, thus diminishing to a great extent the risk of loss of a part of a
solitaire, which is often the case with those now in general use. a is the tongue or
bar (which also forms a spring) extended, carrying one of the studs for entering the
button hole of the cuff, marked b, while the other stud marked b¹ is secured to the
thin strip of metal, forming a box or cover marked c, which is secured to the back of
the front part of the solitaire in the ordinary way, and holds the spring or tongue a
in position.
Fig. 2 is a side view of Figure 1, in which is also shown the spring or ton ue a
expanded; the box or cover c, and the two studs 6 and 6¹.
Fig. 3 is a view of the back of the front part of the solitaire, with the box or
cover c before referred to removed, showing the bars d and d, which are soldered or
otherwise secured to the back of the solitaire, thus forming a groove or recess for
the spring or tongue a before mentioned to work forward and backward in; also
the two small projections e and e on the ends of the said bars marked d and d at
the mouth of the recess, for the shoulders of the said tongue or spring to abut
against to prevent the spring or tongue being entirely withdrawn from the recess
while the cuff is being drawn off the wrist over the hand of the wearer. The
spring or tongue is thus retained within the recess formed by the said bars
d and d.
Fig. 4 is an edge view, which more clearly illustrates the two small pro-
jections marked e and e, shown in Figure 3, as well as the two small bars or
pieces marked d and d, which are fixed at right angles to and at the ends of the
bars marked d and d, also shewn in plan at Figure 3. In this view the thin metal
cover or box c is shown, and consequently the second stud b¹ which is secured by
soldering or otherwise thereto.
Fig. 5 is a back view complete of Figure 1 with the spring or tongue marked a
retired within the recess, and beneath the cover or casing a before mentioned and
showing the studs band b¹ as in position when the cuff is properly adjusted and
secured on the wrist of the wearer. It will be seen by referring to Figs. 1, 2,
and 3, that as the spring or tongue a is forced into the recess or groove formed by
the bars d and d (thereby compressing it) and immediately a, a, formed at the
end of the spring or tongue a pass over the small bars or projections and d³,
partly shewn in dotted lines in Figure 3; the spring or tongue expands and flies
open, and is caught and secured by the shoulders a¹; a¹, abutting against the said
projections d'and d, leaving the small end of the spring or thumb bit f projecting
froin the edge of the solitaire, and the recess, which is protected by the cover c
before mentioned, and by applying a slight pressure to the said thumb bit fit will
be at once seen that the spring or tongue will be again liberated, and (as the
cuff is being drawn over the hand) withdrawn or extended from the recess before
referred to.
Fig. 6 is a side view of a solitaire in which the same object is arrived at by
means of the two flanges marked h and h¹, one of which (marked h¹) being soldered
or otherwise secured to the middle of the hollow shank which is connected to the
disc forming the back of the solitaire, and is represented in a side view and plan at
Figs. 7 and 8. The other flange marked is secured in like manner to the end of a
short piece of tube forming the shank, which is secured by soldering or otherwise to
the back of the front part of the solitaire for receiving the end of the small tube
forming the shank on the top of the back part of the solitaire, so that when the two
parts are brought together they are secured to each other by a suitable spring or
catch, and the flanges h and h¹ are also brought in contact with each other at the
middle of the shank or stud, as shewn in Fig. 6. When in use the two separate
parts are inserted in their corresponding button holes in the cuff or other article of
dress, and are held there securely by the flanges, the material lying between the
flanges h and h¹, and the two discs forming the front and back parts of the solitaire,
so that the cuff may be taken from the wrist by simply applying a slight pressure
to the pusher marked ƒ, being thus disconnected without the solitaire being removed

page_text: therefrom, thus avoiding any possibility of loss arising from either the front or back
part of the solitaire falling from the cuff or being mislaid. Fig. 9 is a front view of
Figure 6, the shape and form of which may be greatly diversified, and may be
ornamented in any desirable manner. It may, for instance, partake the shape and
form of a buckle or otherwise, which would be particularly applicable to boots and
slioes.
Fig. 10 is a front view of a solitaire made in the form of a buckle; o is a piece of
metal or other material, which may be made to resemble leather, and is a thumb
bit forming part of a catch or detent working in a hollow bar underneath, marked Ɩ,
which is forined in conjunction with the piece of metal markod o.
Fig. 11 is a back view of the front part of Figure 10, which shows the hinge
marked, by which the back part, shewn in Fig. 13, is attached and hinged to the
back of the front part, and the hollow bar 7 for receiving a suitable spiral spring in
connection with the said catch or detent. This hollow bar is exhibited in section at
Fig. 12 to shew the shape and position of the detent or catch marked m; also the
spiral spring,
Fig. 13 represents the back part of this solitaire; ¹ is a part of the hinged portion
fitting to the corresponding part on the back of the front part; p is a stud which
we will refer to hereafter; and o' is a detent, which enters the recess in the hollow
bar, and thus secures the parts of the dress together. This solitaire is immediately
unfastened, as in the cases before mentioned, by simply applying a slight pressure
to the end of the catch or detent marked fin Figures 10 and 12.
Fig. 14 is an edge view of Figure 10, also showing a front view (in connection
with it) of the back part which is shown in edge or side view at Fig. 13.
In applying this arrangement to boots, shoes, satchels, and other like articles,
to which it is particularly applicable, the back part, as at Figure 13, is firmly
secured between the leathers of the boot, shoe, or other article, with the front
part working on the hinge marked k, as at Figure 14, when the strap on the
other side of the boot or shoe (which is perforated or eycletted with one or
is passed through the
more holes) it brought over, and the stud marked
eyelet hole, and the front part of the solitaire brought down until the bar
impinges upon the stud p, and the detent marked o¹, also shewn in Figure 13,
enters the recess in the end of the hollow bar 7 shown in Figure 11, in doing
which it forces the detent m into the said bar until it snaps into the said
detent marked o¹ by the force of the spiral spring connected with the catch m
contained in the hollow bar l, which is shown detached at Figure 12.
Fig. 15 is a front view of a scarf ring; Fig. 16, an edge view showing the spring
marked, which is rivetted to one-half of the ring, & which exerts its force
against the projection marked s on the other half, from which it is obvious that by
applying a slight pressure to the thumb but on the outside of the ring (which works
through a slot, and is connected to the spring on the inside) it will cause the detent
on that end of the spring to loose its hold of the catch formed on the corresponding
end of the other half of the ring, when the force of the other end of the spring
against the projection before referred to will immediately cause the ring (the two
parts of which are hinged together) to fly open, and will be closed again by simply
pressing the parts together.
Fig. 17 is an inside view of that half of the ring which contains the spring, which
is shown in position; v is a small pin, which in this case serves the double purpose
of securing the spring to the ring, and of holding the ring in its proper position on
the scarf or other article of dress.
Figs. 18, 19, and 20 are views of a modification of the scarf ring last described,
the spring in this case being cut or formed out of the metal forming the ring by
suitable slits, its action being similar in all respects to the one previously described
and exhibited. These scarf rings may partake at the front the form and shape of a
solitaire, suitably ornamented, and could be used as an ordinary solitaire for the
securing of ladies' and gentlemen's wearing apparel.
Fig. 21 is an edge view of a solitaire button (the front of which may be ornamented

page_text: in any suitable manner, and formed in part out of any suitable material). Fig, 22
is a sectional view, and Fig. 23 is a front view of same.
Fig. 24 is a view of the centre stud, marked a, in Figures 21 and 22, on which the
two discs (forming, buttons which loosely around the stud s) are held by being
flanged or turned back on its ends, the length of which may be regulated and varied
by the number of thicknesses of wearing apparel that is required to be secured
together, thus entirely dispensing with the sewing on of buttons in many instances
for ladies' and gentlemen's attire, which is at once obvious must be a great
desideratum. One of the said discs, or both, may (if desired) be firmly secured to
the stud 8, or may work loosely.
Fig. 25 is a front view of a modification of that last described, suitable for a shirt
stud or other like connector; Fig. 26 is an edge view of same, of which Fig. 27 is a
section. In this case the ends of the connecting stud are contained within hollow
discs of metal forming the back and front of the stud, which are soldered or other-
wise secured together. The front is made smaller than the back part, and formed
by preference by a flat disc, to the back of which is soldered or otherwise secured a
semi-sphereical piece of metal to allow the end of the stud w to work in.
With the exception of the scarf ring before referred to, the various Figures in the
Drawing illustrating the various parts and views are made double the size, so that
the parts may be better understood.
Having thus given a general description of the means and processes by which
our Invention may be carried into effect, we wish it understood that we do not
purpose confining ourselves to the exact details herein described and exhibited, as
the same may be greatly varied without effecting or departing from the spirit and
object of our Invention, but what we do claim as of our Invention, and wish to
protect under these our in part recited Letters Patent arc,-
First. The making of solitaires capable of expanding and contracting for effecting
the purposes as herein-before described and illustrated in the Drawings, or by other
equivalent means.
Second. The application and arrangement of the metal flanges exhibited at h
and h, at Figs. 6, 7, and 8, for effecting the object and purpose herein-before
described.
Third. The arrangement of the different parts for applying solitaires to boots,
shoes, and other like articles of dress, as herein described and exhibited.
Fourth. The application of the spring or springs to scarf rings, in the manner and
for the purpose herein described and exhibited.
Fifth. The arrangement of the two discs or buttons working loosely on or
rigidly secured to the hollow central stud, as described and exhibited at Figs. 21,
22, 23, 24, 25, 26, and 27.
In witness whereof, we, the said John Wall and James Newinan, have here-
unto set our hands and seals, this Eighth day of September, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-seven.
Witness,
GEORGE GRIFFIN,
Clerk to Mr. A. Perry,
Consulting Engineer & Patent Agent,
(L.S.)
JOHN WALL.
JAMES NEWMAN. (L.S.)
Handsworth,
Birmingham.