CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN LOOPED OR ELASTIC FABRICS, AND IN ARTICLES MADE THEREPROM; ALSO CERTAIN MACHINERY FOR PRODUCING THE SAID IMPROVEMENTS, WHICH IS APPLICABLE IN WHOLE OR IN PART TO THE MANUFACTURE OF LOOPED FABRICS GENERALLY
Year: 1849

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, THOMAS
KEELY, of the Town and County of Nottingham, Manufacturer, and WILLIAM
WILKINSON, of the same place, Framework Knitter, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Royal Letters Patent under the Great Seal of the United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland, bearing date at Westminster, the Tenth day of November,
One thousand eight hundred and forty-nine, in the thirteenth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto us, the:
said Thomas Keely and William Wilkinson, our exors, admors, and assigns,
Her especial license, full power, sole privilege and authority, that we, the said
Thomas Keely and William Wilkinson, our exors, adñors, and assigns, and
such others as we, the said Thomas Keely and William Wilkinson; our
exors, adiñors, or assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from
time to time and at all times during the term of years therein expressed,
should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within England,
Wales, and the Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, our Invention of "CERTAIN
IMPROVEMENTS IN LOOPED OR ELASTIC FABRICS, AND IN ARTICLES MADE THEREPROM;
ALSO CERTAIN MACHINERY FOR PRODUCING THE SAID IMPROVEMENTS, WHICH IS
APPLICABLE IN WHOLE OR IN PART TO THE MANUFACTURE OF LOOPED FABRICS
GENERALLY;" in which said Letters Patent is contained a proviso that we,
the said Thomas Keely and William Wilkinson, or one of us, should cause a
particular description of the nature of our said Invention, and in what manner
the same is to be performed, by an instrument in writing under our hands
and seals, or under the hand and seal of one-of us, to be inrolled-in Her said.

page_text: Majesty's Unit Court of Chancery within six calendar months next and
immediately after the date of the said in part recited Letters Patent, as in
and by the same, reference being thereunto had, will more fully and at large
appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, we, the said
Thomas Keely and William Wilkinson, do hereby declare that the nature of
the said Invention, and in what manner. the same is to be performed, are
fully described and ascertained in and by the present Specification thereof,
reference being had to the Drawings hereunto annexed, that is to say:―
Firstly, our Invention consists in manufacturing looped or elastic fabrics of
several threads, each of a different material from the others, or some of one
material and some of a different material or materials, and the whole so
woven, knit, or looped together that any one or two of the threads shall be
completely enveloped by the others; and so also that in the event of a failure
in any of the loops this shall not cause that general running or failure of the
entire fabric which results from such failure in the case of ordinary looped
fabrics. For example, we make gloves or stockings in this way, composed
of three threads, one of cotton and two of silk, in which the cotton thread
is interposed between the two silk threads, and both the outside and inside of
the glove or stocking are wholly of silk; or we make gloves and stockings
of four threads, the two innermost of which are of cotton, and the two other
ones of silk. A comparatively cheap fabric is thus made to exhibit all the
appearance of a more expensive one, while at the same time, from its being
less liable to run, it is. proportionately stronger and more lasting than looped
fabrics of the ordinary manufacture, by which modifications and additions we
are also enabled to weave a number of such articles (or webs) in the same
frame at one and the same time, each web having a separate and perfect.
selvage. We produce these improved articles of manufacture by means of the
common stocking frame, with certain modifications and additions, which we
shall now proceed to describe.
Figure 1 of the annexed Drawings represents a front elevation, and
Figure 2 a vertical section of a stocking frame as so. modified and added to..
A is the sinker bar. B, the hand bar. C2, C², the presser bar arms. D, D,
the thumb or locking plates. E, E, the front banging cheeks. F, the needle
bar, and a, a, the needles. G, the jack bar, and G2 the jacks. (All the
preceding parts, together with the lockers, locker bar, the truck, and carriage
bar, are nearly similar to those of the old knitting frame, and familiar to all
stocking weavers).. H, H, are the lead and jack sinkers, which are separately
represented of the actual size in Figures 3 and 4. b, b, are the nibs, which

page_text: instead of having as usual an acute angular part at 6 for the reception of the
threads, are made square, as shewn at the bottom of the notch or angle, so
that they may press upon two or more threads columnwise, or parallel to one
another, without twisting during the motions of sinking and locking. J is a
rail with bevelled top surface, which is supported from the framework by two
arms j, j K is a carriage which runs upon the rail J by means of two small
cones or wheels c, c, bevelled to correspond with the top surface of the rail.
d, d, are rollers which serve in front as guides to the carriage K, and e is a
friction wheel at the back. K, K, are two arms, which are screwed to the
carriage K, so that they may be readily adjusted to any required height, and
carry a guide bar K³, which has affixed to it a number of compound guides
L, L, L, a front and side view of one of which is given separately on an
enlarged scale in Figures 5 and 6. Each of these guides lays in the thread to
a separate set of needles, and every separate set of needles and sinkers produces"
a separate article or web. The upper part of the loom for holding the bobbins
and regulating the supply of threads to the needles is affixed to the board. M,
which is mounted upon the framework by the pillars f. f. N is a box which
holds a set of bobbins g, g, g, which are mounted on spindles as shewn. When
these bobbins contain silk the bottom of the box is covered with water to
impart the proper degree of dampness to the silk to enable it to be worked on.
the top of the box. N is a rail, which carries another set of bobbins h, h, h;
which are employed for yarns that work in a dry state. O, O, is a frame of
wires for the purpose of guiding the balances or weights i, i, i. P1, P2, are
levers, which are actuated by the cords k, k, k, so that at the formation of each
row of loops the cross bar Q is made to descend for a certain distance to
unwind a sufficiency of thread from the bobbins for the formation of the next
row of loops. And during the interval between the rising of the cross bar Q
and the laying in of the thread to the needles by the guides, the weights i, i,
serve to keep the threads in that state of tension which is necessary to ensure
regularity in the formation of the loops, and to prevent that breaking of the
threads which would be the result if the yarn were taken directly from the
bobbins by the movement of the guides. The threads from the bobbins in the
box N are passed over the first row of crank wires R, R, R, through the.
balances i, i, next throngh a second row of crank wires R2, R2, after which.
they pass through the guide bar S, and over the steadying bar S2, whence they
pass through the brass combs T, T, T, (a separate view of which is given in
Figure 7) to the compound guides L, by which they are laid upon the needles.
The threads from the bobbins outside of the box, after being passed over the
cranked wires u, u, follow the same course which has just been described in

page_text: reference to the threads from the bobbins in the box N.
In the loom repre-
sented in the Drawings, and which we are now describing, there are four
threads passed through each of the combs T, T, and guides L, so that the web
produced would be formed of four threads, and the positions these threads
would take in respect to one another would be determined by the compound
guides L, L. Thus supposing it were required to form the fabric with silken
surfaces on both sides, the silk threads must be passed through the outer-
most and innermost holes in the bottom of the guides. The small guides 1, 1, 1,
fixed upon the stems of the larger guides L, L, are for the purpose of dividing
the threads and keeping them from twisting upon the return of the guides
over the needles. In Figure 1 the needles and sinkers are represented as
being divided into six equal portions (such an arrangement as is fitted for
making the fingers of gloves), but the divisions may be of any desired number,
that is to say, of any number which one workman can look to or superintend
at a time. The movement of the carriage K is effected by the side treadles,
the same action which strikes the jacks moving the carriage through the
medium of the cords m, m, which are attached to the carriage by the slide
bar V. The first action which takes place on pulling the cords m, m, by
means of the treadle is to cause the slide bar V to move forward till the
stops v, v, come against the guards v2, 2, which allows the guides compound
L, L, to get in advance of the falling down of the jacks. (Were this lead not
given to the guides the action of the machine would be stopped by the sinkers
falling in advance of the guides instead of after them). W is a supplementary
slide bar, to which the cords m, m, are attached. When it is found necessary
to work the loom, and allow the carriage K to stand at rest, as during the
operation of throwing in of stripes into the fabric (at which time the thread is
either laid into the needles by hand, or by mechanism such as is hercin-after
described), guides may be connected by joints to the carriage bar K, so that
they may be slidded up out of the way to enable the stripes to be varied.
When figured fabrics are to be produced, the figuring, or independent threads
as they are called, are warped or wound upon bobbins of the sort represented
in Figure 8, which is a front elevation of a counter bar fitted with a number
of bobbins and carriages. A plan of a single bobbin and carriage is given
separately in Figure 9. The carriages A, A, are all fixed in the counter
bar W2 by wires passed through the holes a, a, the bobbins B, B, being left
free to turn as the thread is unwound from them. In Figures 1 and 2 this
counter bar W2 is shewn as being fitted upon two slotted cranks attached to the
woodwork of the frame, and when so fitted it affords great facility for applying
the threads as independent warp threads, so that a single thread, or any

page_text: number of threads, may be put in or left out to produce the desired pattern.
Bars of bobbins of this description have been before used in the manufacture
of bobbin net, but the carriages have always in that case been moveable,
whereas in our application of them the carriages remain fixed while the bobbins
are left turning.
Another mode of throwing into the web plain or various colored threads,
for the purpose of making stripes or various patterns, is shewn in Figures 10,
11, and 12. J is a carriage rail similar to that represented in Figures 1 and 2,
and before described. The stops B, B, for the carriage are prolonged upward,
and the prolongations form supports for a warp roller R, upon which any
number of different threads may be warped. The threads from this roller are
supplied to the needles by the carriers affixed to the carriage (which are for
this purpose passed down through the combs T, T.) This arrangement is not
intended to supersede the use of a fixed bar of bobbins, but to enable different
colors or qualities of threads or yarns to be used either at separate times or at
one and the same time along with the bobbin threads. It will be observed
that in the Figures last referred to (Figures 10, 11, and 12) the arrangements
at the head of the loom are such as would be suitable for the supply of twelve
guides with threads, each carrying four threads, whereas in Figures 1 and 2
the arrangements made are for the supply of only half that number.
To produce raised lace patterns upon gloves, stockings, and other articles,
we adopt a jack of the peculiar construction represented in Figure 13 and
Figure 14, the former being a plan and the latter a back elevation of the
same. Hitherto jack machines have only contained a series of "points," for
the purpose of lifting the loops, from one needle to another in the production
of figures; but it is necessary for the object of this part of our Invention
that the jack should be fitted with "guides" as well as "points," so that we
may be enabled not only to lift the loops but to throw in independent or
figuring threads at the same time. a, a, are the points. b, b, the guides, which
are shewn separately.
In Figures 15 and 16 c, c, are "gates," as they are technically termed,
so arranged that the traverse given to the "points" and "guides" may
move "half gates" as well as whole gates, so that they can be made to pass
through the needles, as well as bring the points and guides into action, and
both points and guides are capable of being turned into an upright position,
whereby the whole or any number of either of the guides or points may be
put out of action, while the others are left to act upon the web, and so produce
the desired pattern. We produce also by the peculiar jack machine last
described loop lace gimps in large numbers, at a time, and either all plain, or

page_text: some plain and some figured, and when figured of diverse patterns. At present
such gimps are made by hand one at a time and plain only. To raise a pile
upon framework knitted fabrics we add to the jack with points and guides just
described, and immediately under the needles, a rod or wire R³ of the form
represented in cross section in Figure 17; the loops thrown in by the thread
from the jack are made over this wire or rod, and a circular knife or cutter
being made by the action of the loom to travel along a longitudinal groove b',
cut in the side of the wire or rod, it cuts the loops through and forms a cut-
pile knitted fabric.
Secondly, our Invention consists of a new method of finishing by the loom
the ends of the fingers of glooves which is intended to be substituted for the
ordinary taking off," a term well understood in the hosiery trade. The
manner in which we proceed with this part of our Invention is as follows:-
The finger being woven till within about one half of an inch from the end,
the workman makes an eyelet hole in the centre of the finger, and then having
completed the whole length, finishing with a slack course, he makes a cut from
the eyelet hole to the end of the finger. The half the finger which is on the
right side of the cut is placed in a small wooden holder, generally known in
the trade as a "toe peg," and taken off from the needles, after which it is
turned over upon the other half of the finger, and the loops slipped upon the
needles, so that the loops of the one half correspond with those of the other,
being upon the same needles. The innermost loops are now drawn over the
outermost loops, and then successively turned off by drawing the one through
the other in a similar manner to that in which the junction of the heel of a
stocking is formed. In seaming the fingers there is laid off a small seam, so
that when sewed it shall have the form represented in Figure 18. The pre-
ceding method of finishing fingers of gloves is equally applicable to all kinds
of knitted gloves made from the loom.
Thirdly, our Invention consists of another arrangement of framework
knitting machinery, whereby two or more webs with separate selvages may
be worked in one frame at one and the same time, and whereby also several
frames may be worked simultaneously by one prime mover.
Figure 18 is a front elevation, Figure 19 an end elevation, partly in section,
explanatory of this arrangement. A, A, is the framework of one machine. B
is the needle bar upon which the needles a, a, are fixed in the same manner
as in warp machines and stocking frames. C³, C2, are two sleys which are
affixed to the needle bar by means of brackets C³, C³. D¹, D2, are two rails
which are set as nearly in perfect parallelism to each other as may be. These
rails are planed and straightened upon their sides and upper edges, and serve

page_text: for a carriage E to travel upon, as afterwards explained. F is an endless
screw, which is turned by the crank handle G, and gives motion to a wormi
wheel H. On the same spindle with the worm wheel there is fixed a pinion I
which gears into a wheel K (similar to that well known as being used in
Baker's Patent Mangle) affixed to the shaft L. By this arrangement the
rotary motion of the shaft of the worm wheel and pinion causes an alternating
rotary motion of the shaft L, and of the band wheel M, which is keyed upon
it. The carriage E is attached to the band wheel M by two bands or chains
which are passed over the pulleys N, N, so that the alternating motion given
to the band wheel is communicated to the carriage, and causes it to traverse
upon the.rails D1, D2, from one end of the machine towards the other, or for
any lesser distance corresponding with the particular width of the web desired
to be woven. b, b, are the sinkers which are placed in the partitions of the
sleys C¹, C. A separate view of these sinkers is given in Figure 20. Near
to the upper end of the sinkers, and upon the back edge thereof, there is a
bevilled projection c, by which they rest (when not acted on by the carriage)
upon a bar forming the back of the sley C¹. The pressers c, c. which are
separately shewn in Figure 21, are fixed in a comb formed upon the upper
edge of the needle bar, and held in their places by a rod f which passes from
end to end of the needle bar, and through a hole d formed near to the centre
of the pressers, and they are at perfect liberty to turn upon that rod, when
acted upon, as afterwards explained. For every needle there is a separate
presser. The carriage E is composed of two grooved bars d¹, d³, a
plan of
one of which is given separately in Figure 22. The upper and lower ends
of the sinkers X, X, take successively into these grooves as the carriage
makes its transit over them, whereby the sinkers are made to perform.several
distinct operations in the formation of the loops of the fabric, while at the
same time the pressers are successively brought down upon the needles by
the action of a part of the carriage represented in Figure 23, and which is
connected by a pin or axle passed through the hole e to the back of the
carriage, and occupies such a position that the back ends of the pressers
fall into the peculiar shaped slot or channel f. The result of the passage
of the carriage E along the bars is, that the threads passing through the
guides L from the bobbin P are laid upon the needles, the sinkers are lifted
up and placed over the threads, and then falling down take down along with
them the threads a sufficient distance to form the loops. The threads are
then pressed under the beards or. barbs of the needles by a forward motion
of the sinkers resulting from the peculiar form of the grooves in the carriage.
The pressers are next brought down by one or other of the wheels g, g, fixed

page_text: in the slot or channel f, and the loops of the fabric previously formed are,
by the forward motion of the sinkers, made to pass over the barbs of the
needles till they are finally cast off and the loops of the next row completed.
The changes necessary to be effected previously to the return of the
carriage to act upon the sinkers are produced by the cords h¹, h', h2, h², the
former of which (h³, h',) act upon a lever ¹ centred in the upper bar of the
carriage, and the latter (h2, h3,) upon a similar lever centred in the lower
bar. These levers raise and lower small inclined planes jointed to and forming
part of the floor of the grooves in the upper and lower bars of the carriage.
At the end of each stroke or travel of the carriage E the slot or channel f² in
the back part of the carriage is put in such a position that it will produce
the dipping of the pressers at the proper interval, being acted upon by a pin
or stud affixed to the lower rail D³, against which the tail k is made to strike,
which turns up the channel into its proper position (or it may be acted upon
by a cord attached to the band wheel). In some cases we propose, instead
of using a separate presser to each needle, to employ a disc or wheel presser,
in which case the disc would be attached by an arm to the carriage E, and
be placed so that in rolling over the barbs of the needles it would produce the
operation of pressing. Instead, also, of having only one carriage mounted
upon the frame, as represented in the Drawings, we mean to mount two or
more such carriages upon the same bar, and so to connect them together that
each carriage may produce a regularly selvaged web, as in the case of the
loom or frame represented in Figures 1 and 2, and before described. We
propose, moreover, to work a number of frames, all on the same plan as the
preceding, by mounting the several frames behind one another in an ascending
order, after the manner of steps or tiers, connecting each frame to the endless
screw F, which will serve as the common prime mover to the whole.
Fourthly, our Invention consists in adapting the common warp frame to the
production of that class of looped or elastic fabrics called braids, whereby we
are enabled to produce by one frame and one set of movements, and at one and
the same time, a great number of such braids (now ordinarily manufactured
one at a time), and either all of one pattern, or of as many different patterns
as there are braids. We employ for this purpose a frame of the ordinary and
well-known construction, with two, three, or four guide bars, each bar being
filled with guides. Hitherto it has been the practice in threading the guides,
to put only one thread into a guide; but for the purposes of this part of our
Invention we put from two to five threads into each guide, varying the number
according to the kind of braid which is to be formed. The guide bars are
actuated in the usual manner by means of wheels and cams, so as to produce

page_text: the various shifts necessary to produce the loops. The "cut" or form of the
wheels for effecting these movements in the guide bars will vary according to
the kind of braid to be produced, as exemplified in Figures 1b, 2, 3b, and 4b.
The changes effected by the wheels Figure 1 and Figure 2b are calculated to
produce a braid or web upon two needles. With the addition of the wheel
Figure 3b a web is produced on four needles, and with the further addition
of Figure 4b a web or braid upon six needles. When the six needles are
employed the breadth of the braid admits of its being striped; but in all
cases, whatever may be the number of needles employed or taken up in the
formation of a braid, patterns can be given or put into them in the manner
afterwards explained. The braid can also be made of various forms, as flat,
round, or angular, which forms depend upon the number of threads employed
for each needle. Two threads to a needle produce a flat braid, four threads to
a needle produce a square braid, six threads an angular braid, twelve threads
a round braid; and any one or all of these different forms of braids may be
produced at one and the same time by the same "cut" of wheels and move-
ments of the guide bars. The patterns, however, depend upon the manner of
warping the thread upon the beam; as exemplified in the following description
of the method of warping the thread for a six-threaded pattern. The whole
of the threads are here supposed to be of different colors, but exactly the same
process is followed for a six-threaded braid when all the threads are of the
same colour. The threads are taken from the bobbins and passed singly
through the holes of a "brass," and wound upon a warping mill, from which
they are again taken in pairs, every two threads being passed through the
brass and warped on to the beam in that combined state as two sets of three
threads each. From the description which we have given any competent
workman acquainted with cutting the wheels and putting patterns into a warp
loom will be able to put on an endless variety of patterns. By the same
method of working the warp loom we are enabled to plate or cover thread of
an inferior with thread of a better sort, whatever may be the number of webs
or braids, and however many or few may be the needles employed for each
braid (within the limits before mentioned). Every needle in the loom is
occupied, except where three needles are employed in plating or covering, in
which case the centre needle is left empty, the guide bars being threaded
2 and 1, which arrangement has the effect of concealing the centre thread,
which may be of a coarser material than the others, and may also be of much
greater substance, as it never enters into the barbs of the needles. When we
make round braids over three needles we find it convenient to employ three
warp beams for the thread. Figure 5b is an elevation of a reeling machine,

page_text: which is attached to the end of the frame of the warp machine by the axles
a, a, upon which it revolves. It occupies a position immediately under and
parallel to the warp beam and needles. The braid, as woven, is wound upon
the reel by turning it either by hand, or it may be actuated by a motion from
the machine; when the proper quantities are reeled on the machine the
screws b, b, are slackened, which allows the stretchers c, c, to come closer
together, when the hanks of braid can be easily removed and tied up for sale.
Fifthly, our Invention consists in adapting a guide such as is represented in
Figures 5 and 6, and before described, to each spindle of the common braiding
machine, and also mounting four bobbins on these spindles, so that there may
be four threads laid in by the guide instead of having a single thread laid in
each time, as is now the practice. By this arrangement the braid or elastic
web will be covered more speedily, and a less quantity of silk will be required
for that purpose. The employment of these extra threads affords also greater
facilities for producing various patterns. When the elastic web is composed
of strands of caoutchouc we cause the web as formed to pass over a heated
drum, by which the elasticaling and finishing process is performed. The drum
is put in motion from the braiding machine.
Sixthly, our Invention consists of another arrangement of machinery for
producing looped fabrics, in which the needles are arranged round a common
circle (as in the well-known circular weaving machines), but are worked in
sections independently of one another, each section being calculated to produce
a separate web with a selvage on each side, and the number of sections being
variable at pleasure, according to the width desired to be given to the webs, and
to the diameter of the circle from which they are struck; whereas the circular
looms before referred to are capable of producing but one continuous cylin-
drical web without any selvage, which web must be cut through when used in
any other than its original cylindrical shape. Figure 24 is a plan, and
Figure 25 a vertical section of a knitting frame or loom of this description,
divided into three sections or divisions, which, from the distinctive peculiarity of
its action, we call "the turn-again loom." A is a central vertical shaft, to which
is attached a circular needle bar B, both of which are fixed and stationary.
C, C, are the needles, which radiate outwards from the bar, and are divided into
three sections, with short vacant spaces between the sections. To each section
there is attached a separate set of the five moving or working parts next to be
described; that is to say, firstly, guides D, D, which lay in the thread to the
needles from the bobbins K, K, K, which guides are similar to those used in
the machine first herein-before described, and represented in Figures 5 and 6,
and are attached to an expandible ring F, shewn separately in Figure 26.

page_text: Secondly, presser wheels E, E, which are attached to a ring L.. Thirdly, feed
weels G, G, which are attached to a ring M. Fourthly, driving wheels H, H,
which are attached to a ring N; and fifthly, driving pins I, I, of which
there is one within each needle gate. All the three sets of these several
moving parts are put simultaneously in motion in the direction of the arrows
by the turning of the crank bandle T, and each set, after traversing in one
direction the section of needles to which they belong (having produced in that
traverse one row of loops), are made to turn round and retraverse them in
the opposite direction (producing thereby a second row of loops), and so on
continuously till the webs are completed. It is this "turn-again" movement,
or working to and fro over the needles in sections, which constitutes the chief
feature of novelty in this machine; and the means whereby this movement is
accomplished fall next to be described. As soon as the guides D, D, have
passed over all the needles of the section to which they belong, and come
over the open space between that and the next following section, there is a
cam O which causes the ring F to expand, and so carry the guides out of the
way of the feed wheel E, in order that that wheel may complete its traverse;
and so also, when the feed wheel has passed over all the needles, the ring M,
to which it is attached, is lifted up by a cam m, m, which allows the axle of
presser wheel to pass freely underneath; and when the driving wheel H has
pushed out all the driving pins I, I, then the entire series of operations is
reserved. The cam O, upon a slight impulse being given to it, allows the
ring F to contract by the action of the springs Q. Q; the guides then pass
on to the needles, and the feed wheels, pressing wheels, and driving wheels
come successively into action as before. In the Drawing there are four
bobbins and threads shewn for each guide, and these threads are thrown in
in column, so that by using different colors and qualities of thread, plated
and mixed patters of fabrics may be produced. In some cases we employ
auxilliary guides for the purpose of producing stripes in cloths; and in making
this kind of fabric both guides are jointed to the ring F, so that either of the
guides may be turned out of work at pleasure (an arrangement which is also
applicable to the striping of welts in stockings). Instead of employing a
wheel for pressing down the barbs of the needles, as has just been described,
we sometimes employ a presser ring, such as is represented partly in section,
Figure 27, by which the whole of the needles are pressed at once by one
action. A is the central spindle. B, B, the preeser ring or bar. C, the
needle bar. D, D, the needles.
E, a spring by which the presser
ring or bar is lifted up after having performed its work. This ring is
actuated by the foot of the workman by means of a treadle, or when the

page_text: loom is worked by power, by means of a cam.
In the Icom figured in
the Drawings the needles are divided into three sections, but it will be obvious
that they may be divided into any number of sections which may suit the
convenience of the manufacturer. The number of sections may also be either
set off permanently at starting, or the number of these sections may be varied
from time to time by covering over or stopping out portions of the needles
by means of sliding plates. By the ordinary circular loom a web of one
dimension only can be made, and for every separate dimension there must be a
separate loom; nor can a circular loom which has been originally made to
produce one dimension of web be afterwards changed to produce another
without an entire breaking up and reconstruction of the machine. But by
means of our "turn-again" loom, webs of all widths, each with perfect selvages,
may be manufactured at pleasure. Again, in working with the common
circular loom the courses of loops form of necessity a series of spirals, which
give to the fabric a twist which renders it difficult to make a good fitting article
of apparel out of it; whereas by our mode of working the needles in segmental
sections, and reversing the courses at the end of each section, the courses
become all as perfectly parallel as if produced by the ordinary rectangular
weaving, and thus obviate the difficulty referred to. We have described the
needles as being arranged in a circle round a common centre, and worked in
segmental sections, which is the arrangement we prefer; but the circle may
obviously be resolved into a polygon of any convenient number of straight
sides, and our "turn-again" movement is just as applicable to the working of
the needles in straight as in curved sections. We do not restrict ourselves
therefore to any particular form of section, but claim a right to dispose or
arrange the needles in any form to which our "turn-again movement is
applicable. When it is desirable that the web formed upon this modification
of the circular loom should be faced on account of the quality of the thread
employed, then we employ two expanding rings, composed like that before
figured and described, of several segmental pieces sliding laterally over each
other. One ring is placed underneath the needles behind the driving pins, and
acted upon by a cam at the end of the formation of each course of loops.
The ring expanding at that instant acts as a driving bar, and gives face to the
web, but is prevented from pushing the web too far out by the second ring,
which contracts and pushes the loops of the formed web sufficiently far back
to allow of the formation of the next following course.
"
Seventb, our Invention consists of an improvement in the circular loom
before referred to, whereby several webs may be worked by that loom at a
time, and these webs be of any desired width, but without selvages. The

page_text: circle of needles is divided, as in our "turn-again" loom into any required
number of sections, and short vacant spaces left in the needle bar between the
sections; the extent of these sections may be also diminished or enlarged from
time to time by the temporary super-position of plates, as before explained; but
the working parts by which the looping of the threads is effected, instead of
turning back at the end of each section, and retraversing the same, proceed
continuously round the entire circle (thus leaving the webs of necessity without
any selvage), and when the webs are finished they are separated by cutting
through at the divisional spaces. To make up for the absence of selvages in
this case we attach a fixed bar of bobbins or a warp beam to the loom for the
purpose of introducing a warp thread through the terminal loops of each web,
which will effectually prevent them from running. This thread does not enter
into the beards of the needles, but is simply embraced by the loops which are
formed round it. Similar warp threads may be introduced in the same way
into the body of each web, for the purpose of strengthening the same.
The preceding mode of tying and strengthening looped and elastic fabrics
may be applied to the said fabrics by whatever description of loom the same
are manufactured, and also to striping, ribbing, or otherwise figuring such
fabrics. By the use of three guides in either the "turn-again loom" or the
divisional circular loom in combination with the expanding ring, any portion of
the web, as for instance the heels of stockings, may be thickened and varied in
thickness. Any one or two of the guides can be thrown out or into action at
the pleasure of the workman, and the thickness increased or diminished always
within the limits of the three guides.
Eighth, our Invention consists of a contrivance for obviating the necessity
which the workman is now under in the case of knitting heavy or stiff yarns,
of having frequently to press down the jacks by hand to cause the sinkers
to form the proper length of loop. We employ for this purpose an upper
roller slurcock which travels along the front cross bar, and is put in motion
by being connected to the cord of the under slurcock. That part of the
slurcock which comes in contact with the jacks is a circular disc or roller,
and therefore passes readily and freely over the jacks by a rolling and not a
sliding motion, and secures their being pressed down till they come in
contact with the falling bar, by which they are stopped, and the production
of a level web thus secured, which, with the common slurcock alone, is
often difficult to attain. This rolling slurcock is attached to a frame, and
is made by screws or stars adjustable with the greatest nicety to any thickness
of .web...
Ninth, our Invention consists in the addition to the common stocking-

page_text: The two
frame of a mainspring of the peculiar form represented in Figure 28 for
the purpose of diminishing the labor required to work the same.
ends of this spring bear upon the fore arms, and the opposing point of
resistance is upon the lower gibbet. A, A, are cross sections of the fore
arms. B, B, the spring, and C the gibbet.
Tenth, our Invention consists in a new construction of needle and point bar,
suitable for the manufacture of looped or elastic fabrics. We cast the
needles and point in one lead, so that the needle bar contains points as well
as needles. For example, we cast in one lead either two needles and one
point, or two points and one needle, or one point and one needle. This
combination of points and needles in the same bar enables the frameworker
to make ribs at once without having first to make certain loops, and then to
let these loops down, whence this class of articles are now commonly termed
"let-down ribs."
Eleventh, our Invention consists of an improvement in the machine bar
employed in framework knitting machines. At present the machine bar
carries ticklers only, but we propose to make it carry also the guides and
points, the tickler, the guide and point of each bar being cast separately and
moveable on their respective axes.
Twelfth, our Invention consists of an improvement in the mode of forming
tucks in looped fabrics. Instead of working the sliding plates upon the presser
bar by hand, as is now the practice, we work them by means of wheels, with
cut patterns upon them, which actuate the plates at the proper intervals to
produce the loops required.
And having now described the nature of our Invention in the several parts
hereof, and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that the
improvements which we claim are as follows:-
First, we claim the manufacture of looped or elastic fabrics, and of articles
made therefrom; of three or more threads disposed coluinnwise or parallel to
one another, each or some of which are of a different material or materials
from the others, and the whole are so knitted or looped together that the
threads of one material (say that which is cheapest or strongest) are thrown
into the interior of the fabric, and those of the other material or materials
(say those which are the most costly and showy) form the outer surfaces of the
fabric or article.
Second, we claim the manufacture of looped or elastic fabrics, with three or
more threads disposed columnwise or parallel to one another as aforesaid,
irrespective of any difference in the materials of which these threads are
composed.

page_text: Third, we claim the improved framework knitting machine first herein-
before described, by which the many-threaded fabrics and articles aforesaid are
produced, and a number of webs or articles are woven in the frame at one
and the same time, each baving separate selvages; and whereby alsó fabrics
composed of a single thread, or of two threads, inay be woven; that is to say,
in so far as regards the compound guides L, L, and e, e, for laying the thread
to the needles, the carriage K and rail I, on which the guides travel with their
appurtenances, the peculiarly shaped sinkers (Figures 3 and 4), the bobbin
box N, and fixed bar of bobbins and carriages (Figure 8), the unwinding
levers P1, P2, and parts in immediate and necessary connection therewith, and
the fixed combs T, T.
Fourth, we claim the parts lastly herein-before enumorated as constituting
the peculiar features of the improved framework knitting machine first herein-"
before described, each by itself individually and separately; whether as applied
in that machine, or as the same may be applicable to any other machine for
producing looped or elastic fabrics.
Fifth, we claim the improved jack, with points and guides, for figuring
looped fabrics before described, and also the adaptation thereof to the raising
of a pile upon looped fabrics, as before described, whether the said jack or
adaptation thereof be employed in combination with the improved framework
knitting machine aforesaid, or with any other machine for producing looped or
elastic fabric.
Sixth, we claim the mechanism for figuring looped or elastic fabrics repre-
sented in Figures 10, 11, and 12. as before described; that is to say, the
double frame of wirework, and the warp. roller for adding independent
threads.
Seventh, we claim the method of finishing the ends of the fingers of gloves,
as before described.
Eighth, we claim the arrangement of framework knitting machinery for
weaving two or more webs with separate selvages at one and the same time,
represented in Figures 18 and 19, and before described; that is to say, in so
far as regards, the rails D1, D2, and carriages E, and the parts in immediate
and necesssary connection therewith, the peculiarly formed. sinkers b, b, and
the means employed to actuate the pressers c, c, and whether such carriages
travel in sets upon the same line of rails, or on different lines of rails, disposed
stepwise or in tiers.
Ninth, we claim the parts lastly herein-before enumerated, each in itself
separately and individually, so far as the same may be applicable to other
machinery for the manufacture of looped or elastic, fabrics.

page_text: Tenth, we claim the adaptation of the common warp frames to the produc-
tion of braids, as before described..
Eleventh, we claim the application of the compound guides L, L, I, I, to the
common braiding machine. ;
Twelfth, we claim the "turn-again loom," as before described; that is to
say, in all that regards the arrangements or means by which the needles, being
disposed in a circle or polygon, are worked in sections or divisions.
Thirteenth, we claim the improvement in the ordinary circular weaving
loom, in so far as regards the division of the needles into sections, and the
addition of the fixed bar of bobbins or warp beam, to throw in the independent
tyeing, strengthening, and figuring threads.
Fourteenth, we claim the application of the last-mentioned method of
throwing in independent threads into looped and elastic fabrics generally.
Fifteenth, we claim the improved construction of mainspring for stocking
frames, as before described.
Sixteenth, we claim the new mode of constructing needle bars and point
bars, and needle and point bars, as before described.
Seventeenth, we claim the improved machine bar filled with guides, points,
and ticklers, as before described; and,
Eighteenth, we claim the improved mode of forming tucks in looped fabrics,
as before described.
In witness whereof, the said Thomas Keely & William Wilkinson, have
hereunto set our hands and seals, this Tenth day of May, One thousand
eight hundred and fifty.