sewing, Embroidering, Eyeletting and Button Holeing.
Year: 1886

page_text: sewing, Embroidering, Eyeletting and Button Holeing.
I ISIDOR NASCH, 251, Whitechapel Road, County of Middlesex, Engineer, do
hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
Viz an improved mechanism for giving a lateral or too and fro motion to the
Looper, on the driving shaft and needle Bar and the thread controller of Sewing
Machine. For ease of discription I will discribe the same as applied to the
Wilcox & Gibbs Type of Machines although I do not confine myself to any style.
On the Shaft I place a motion known as the Watts sun and planet, revolving on
the same for the purpose of providing two motions to one of the shaft. On the
sides of this motion is cams cut on the face or sides, one to work against a slidding
bar, with a yoke on the end for grasping the Looper. A spiral spring is used to
keep it up to face of said cam on the orther side of the motion is a similar cam to
opperate a Lever on the Arm of the Machin on the end this Lever working against
a conviently cut cam on the moveable Needle Bar Head for giving the lateral
motion to the needle. I also place a finger or clamp, that shall close on the thread;
automatically at the moment to tighten, the stitch.
To facilitate the lateral or side movement to the needle Bar, I devide the Fore
Head of the Machine Arm, leaving the arm part stationary and swinging or hinging
the part the Needle Bar slides in..
I also effect this, by use of a Pair of Cog wheels, timed two to one.
The result of the above arrangement is that the Looper & Needle, move laterally,
similtaineously, sideways in oppositition to the direction of the matereal, thus
producing Oversewing and Embroidery on the Surface & Edging.

page_text: sewing, Embroidering, Eyeletting and Button Holeing.
I ISIDOR NASCH of 251 Whitechapel Road in the County of Middlesex Engineer
do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to
be performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement
My invention relates to improvements in the construction of sewing machines for
oversewing, embroidering, eyeletting and button holing; and consists, first, in an
improved mechanism for giving a lateral, or to and fro, motion to the needle bar,
and to the looper or other interlocking thread mechanism; and secondly, to an
improved thread controller for sewing machines.
It is well known that in this class of sewing machines, the loop passing through
the material and those passing over the edge have to be tied together to cover the
edge, and to form the loops into stitches. For this purpose loopers of various
kinds have been used in single thread machine, to bring the one loop to interlock
with the other below the material, and shuttles or other loopers in lock-stitch
machines to lay a locking thread in the successively formed loops of the needle
thread.
Now my Invention refers to the mode and means as hereafter described for
shifting laterally the acting position of the underlooping or interlocking thread
mechanism, whether it be of the looper class or circular, oscillating shuttles or other
locking thread mechanismn, so that the acting positions of such mechanism shall
correspond to the positions that the needle takes in passing alternately through the
work and over the edge of the fabric; and it will be easily understood that the
application of the principle embodied in my invention is equally applicable to either
of the above classes of loopers or shuttles, whether of single or double thread
machines.
And in order that my Invention may be easily understood and readily carried
into effect I will describe the same with reference to the accompanying drawings
wherein for simplicity I have illustrated my Invention as applied to a so-called
Wilcox and Gibbs (single thread, chain stitch) type of machine.
Figure 1 of the accompanying drawings is a front elevation partly in section of
the type of machine above mentioned.
Figure 1 is a vertical cross section on line X' Y¹ of Figure 1; Figure 1B is a
detached sectional view showing arrangement of looper stem in main driving shaft;
Figure 2 is a left hand sectional side view, and Figure 3 is a partial plan Figure
3ª is a horizontal section on line X Y of Figure 2 showing needle head;-Figure 4
is a partial back view, and Figure 5 is a plan showing the cam mechanism wherein
spur gearing is employed for actuating same; Figure 6 is a right hand side view
of the tension arrangement, which may be of any convenient or well known
description.
Figure 7 is a partial sectional front view showing the form of apparatus which
I prefer to employ for giving lateral motion to the looper shaft and to the needle
head carrier; Figure 8 is a horizontal section taken about the centre line of the

page_text: preceding view; Figure 9 is a right hand side view showing the cam which
operates the needle mechanism and Figure 10 is a left hand side view showing the
cam operating the looper mechanism; Figures 11 and 12 are respectively plan and
elevation of a portion of the throat or needle plate and Figures 13 to 18 inclusive
are diagram views of the relative position of the looper and needle drawn to an
enlarged scale in order to illustrate the stitch more clearly.
A is the stand and bracket arm, B the needle bar and b the needle, C the presser
bar and c the presser foot; D the axle or shaft carrying the looper; E is the thread
controller lever pivotted on the frame A at A³ and carrying the thread con-
troller E¹.
.
The needle bar B is mounted in an oscillating or swinging head B¹ hinged by the
upper and lower plates B2 B3 to the end of the bracket arm A, the presser bar C.
serving, as a pivot for the swing head B'; the needle bar B receives its vertical
reciprocations through the rocking arm B³ from the eccentric B' on the shaft D as
usual. The position of the eye of the needle b is maintained in its correct position
during the swinging of the head by a pin B6 which enters and travels in a slot cut
in the head B¹ for this purpose see Figure 3A. Motion is given, in one direction,
to the swing head B' by the lever E pressing outwards on an inclined recess cut in
the head at * and best seen at Figures 1 and 3ª of the drawings; and a spring B
screwed at one end to the bracket arm A and passed round the head is at its other
end screwed to the swinging head B₁ and draws inwardly the said head B¹ against
the end of the lever E and the bracket arm A as will be best seen by reference to
Figures 3 and 3ª.
A
The shaft D is bored out to receive the stem d of the looper & see the sectional
view Figure 1B, the rear end of the stem d of the looper being slotted to receive a
key d which projects on both sides through a slot D2 made in the shaft D.
spiral spring dx mounted on the shaft D between the key d and the frame of the
machine gives a pressure in one direction to the looper.
In order to give a timed lateral motion in the opposite direction to the looper
spindle and the swinging head B¹, two arrangements are shown, and I will first
describe the mechanism shown at Figures 1 to 6. Referring particularly to
Figures 1, 4 and 5 it will be seen that the shaft D carries a bevel pinion D' which
can at will be secured thereto by a spring bolt d³ which slides in a hole drilled in
a collar d' fixed to the shaft D and enters a recess formed in the boss of: the bevel
pinion D'. When it is desired to use the machine for ordinary sewing purposes the
bevel pinion D2 is required to run loose on the shaft D the bolt d' is therefore
drawn back by means of a suitable projecting knob sliding in a bayonet shaped slot
and the bolt being sufficiently withdrawn the projecting knob is turned into the
before mentioned bayonet slot where it will be retained until released by hand.
Other descriptions of clutch arrangement might however be used.
The bevel pinion D³ gears with the bevel wheel D³ mounted on a stud pin a
carried on an adjustable bracket A¹ bolted to the bed plate A; the boss of this
bevel wheel D³ carries two cams F and G operating so that the one acting on the
end of the rocking bar E gives motion as above described to the swinging head B¹,
and the other cam G pushes in one direction the yoke D' which acts on the cross
key of the looper stem. This motion of the cam is transmitted through a cam
shaped lever G³ to the yoke D¹ and thence by the key in the looper stem to the
looper.
•
On the end of the lever E which works against the cam surface cut in the
movable bar head B₁ for giving the lateral motion to the needle 6 I attach the
thread controller E¹ which is here shown in the form of a finger or clamp so that
on the descent of the bar E the finger e¹ closes on to the thread pressing it between.
the flat finger e² of the controller and the plate B³.
In overhead sewing more especially button hole sewing I prefer to employ a
throat plate provided with a spreader k projecting upwards from the throat plate /c¹
of the machine and shown in the drawings at Figures 11 and 12 and for ordinary,
sewing or embroidery work an ordinary throat plate with a single or double hole,

page_text: The traversing motion of the looper which is required to cause it to be presented
in the correct position relatively to the needle at the proper time may be obtained
in the manner herein before described, this being an extremely simple. form of
gearing for the purpose, but I prefer the plan illustrated with especial reference to
Figures 7 to 10 inclusive the centralisation and accuracy of its action as well as
its smoothness of motion being preferable to the arrangement of spur gearing D³ D³
before described.
On the shaft D I carry a differential cam mechanism, or in other words what
I call a sun and planet motion. This cam is composed of a flanged disc H mounted
loosely on the boss of a spur pinion h which is adjustably keyed on to the shaft D
by a spring bolt similar to that described and shown with reference to Figures 1,4
and 5, or other convenient clutch arrangement may be used. On the opposite
edges of this flanged disc H are formed cams one h¹ to work against the sliding
bar D' carrying the yoke before referred to for operating the looper, a spiral spring
dx is used to keep the yoke D¹ up to the face of the said cam h¹. The other cam
face his suitably cut to operate the thread controller lever E pivotted on the
bracket arm A of the machine. The flanged disc H is provided with internal teeth
which gear with an intermediate pinion Figure 10 free to turn on a stud pin
carried by a loose cover H¹ of the flanged disc H which cover H is itself fixed to
a bracket standard H' serving also to form a partial guide to the slide and yoke D¹.
The stud or intermediate pinion h³ Figure 10 transmits motion therefore from the
spur pinion on the driving shaft D to the cam carrying flanged disc H the relative
sizes of the gear wheels shown on the drawings being such that for one revolution
of the flanged cam disc H the shaft D will revolve twice.
The action of this differential gear will in combination with the spring d¹×
transmit a timed reciprocating motion exactly similar to the bevel gearing shown
and described with reference to Figures 1, 4 and 5.
The action of the machine is as follows:
The needle descends, say through the left hand side of the needle hole passing
through the material on the throat or work plate and throws out its loop in the
ordinary manner. The looper d which at this time is held by the cam G Figure 4
in its most advanced lateral position see Figure 13, enters the loop of the needle
thread, opening it out as shown at Figure 14 the looper d is now withdrawn
laterally to the right hand position as shown at Figure 15 by the action of the
spring dx and there held, the concentric part of the cam G serving as a stop. The
needle having been withdrawn from the work, its swinging head B¹ is rocked over
to its right hand position by the action of the spring B Figure 3 and the feed of
the work takes place (mechanism of well known or ordinary description being
employed for this purpose). The needle again descends, this time through the
right hand side of the needle hole and presents another loop to the looper
the lateral position indicated by the diagram view Figure 15. The looper, still
holding the first loop of needle thread as shown at diagram view Figure 16, enters
this second needle loop and carries it through the previous one as shown at
diagram Figure 17.
now in
As the needle again rises out of the work the looper releases the first loop in
the usual manner and as shown by diagram Figure 18 and the thread controller E¹
operated by the cam F will now clamp the thread as before mentioned; namely
between the finger e¹ and the plate B2 of the swing head B₁, thus stopping the
supply of thread from the spool whereby the rise of the needle will draw up the
slack of the released loop and tighten the stitch.
The descent of the loop controller bar E to clamp the thread will cause the end
of controller bar E to press upon the, inclined recess Figure 34 on the needle
head; and as the needle is rising to its highest position the head B will be rocked
to its first position, that is, immediately over the left hand side of the needle hole.
A succession of the above movements produces the over head stitch employed for
edge binding or ornamentation.

page_text: The above described mechanism for rocking the needle head so that the
reciprocations of the needle shall take place on two vertical planes alternately,
and for bringing the looper mechanism into position to act upon the needle loop
at both those vertical planes, is equally applicable whether the shaft D carries a
looper of the class shown or any of the well known circular shuttles or locking
thread-laying mechanism.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is
First: In oversewing, embroidering, eyeletting and button hole sewing machines,
the bevel gearing and cam mechanism and parts connected therewith for shifting
laterally the plane of the needle's reciprocations and the plane of the action of the
looper shuttle or other interlocking thread mechanism substantially as herein
shown and described.
Second: In oversewing, embroidering, eyeletting and button hole sewing
machines, the differential gearing and cam mechanism and parts connected there-
with for shifting laterally the plane of the needle's reciprocations and the plane of
action of the looper, shuttle or other interlocking thread mechanism substantially
as herein shown and described with reference to the accompanying drawings.
Third: In oversewing, embroidering, eyeletting and button hole sewing machines
the mechanism for controlling the thread in its passage from the spool to the
needle and rocking the needle head substantially as herein set forth.
Fourth: The general construction, arrangement and combination of parts form-
ing my improvements in sewing machines for oversewing, embroidering eyeletting
and button holing, substantially as herein set forth.
Dated this 7th day of August 1886.
Witness,
E. G. BREWER,
33, Chancery Lane.
ISIDOR NASCH.