IMPROVEMENTS IN FANCY WEAVING AND IN APPARATUS EMPLOYED THEREFOR
Year: 1885

page_text: I, JAMES EDELSTON, of Preston, Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature
of my invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN FANCY WEAVING AND IN APPARATUS
EMPLOYED THEREFOR," to be as follows:-
:-
The improvements relate to a method of fancy weaving by means of a jacquard
loom, in which the cloth or fabric woven is composed partly of leno or cross weaving,
and partly of plain cloth with or without a floated figure or pattern.
To effect my improvements, I employ a jacquard machine in conjunction with
the loom, the hooks of which jacquard are devided into three sets or portions, the
front set actuating the leno threads, the middle set actuating the plain or floated
portions of the cloth, or both, and the back set actuating a set of healds and
lingoes for the purpose of taking up the slack, when, during weaving, the leno
threads are across, as is at present well understood.
Various arrangements have been made from time to time with the view of
effecting a proper tension motion for these leno threads during weaving, and the
object of my present improvements is to accomplish this in a manner simple and
effective and more especially applicable to cloth woven with coarse counts of yarn.
To accomplish this I fix at a convenient point between the back rest and the
healds for plain cloth a bar or rod or roller over which the whole or a part of the
warp threads pass, and between this bar, rod, or roller and the back rest are hung
the healds and lingoes beforementioned, for the purpose of regulating the tension
of the leno threads..
"
During such time as the leno threads aforesaid are weaving as in plain cloth or
floated pattern, these lingoes with the healds to which they are attached are allowed
to remain down with their weights hanging upon the threads passing through such
healds; but when the leno threads are caused to cross by means of the "doup'
healds in front, then these back healds between the bar, rod, or roller, and the
back rest aforesaid are raised for the purpose of giving slack enough to compensate
for such cross,

page_text: The harness of these lingoes is connected directly, without the intervention of
levers of any kind, to the hooks provided therefor in the jacquard machine, and
the lingoes may either be of sufficient weight for the purpose in themselves or may
be supplemented by a spring or weighted bar or roller bearing down to a fixed
stop or tension, either upon the lingoes, the harness, or the warp yarn, at the
requisite times; the tension being released, at the time of any leno threads crossing,
by means of a suitable tappet or cam, or by the jacquard machine lifting such bar
or roller, in which case the employment of light lingoes is sufficient to "straighten"
the yarn, and the full tension is obtained by means of the spring or weighted bar
or roller beforementioned.

page_text: improvements in гancy weaking and in apparatus
Employed therefor.
I, JAMES EDELSTON, of Preston, Manufacturer, do hereby declare, the nature
of my invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN FANCY WEAVING AND IN APPARATUS
EMPLOYED THEREFOR," and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement:—
The improvements relate to a method of fancy weaving by means of a jacquard
loom, in which the cloth or fabric woven is composed partly of leno or cross
weaving, and partly of plain cloth with or without a floated figure or pattern.
To effect my improvements, I employ a jacquard machine in conjunction with
the loom, the hooks of which jacquard are divided into three sets or portions; the
front set actuating the leno threads, the middle set actuating the plain or floated
portions of the cloth, or both, and the back set actuating a set of healds and lingoes
for the purpose of taking up the slack when, during weaving, the leno threads are
across, as is at present well understood.
Various arrangements have been made from time to time with the view of
effecting a proper tension motion for these leno threads, during weaving, and the
object of my present improvements is to accomplish this in a manner simple and
effective and more especially applicable to cloth woven with coarse counts of yarn.
To accomplish this I fix at a convenient point between the back rest and the
healds for plain cloth a bar or rod or roller over which the whole or a part of the
warp threads pass, and between this bar, rod, or roller, and the back rest are hung
the healds and lingoes beforementioned, for the purpose of regulating the tension
of the leno threads. During such time as the leno threads aforesaid are weaving
as in plain cloth or floated pattern, these lingoes with the healds to which they are
attached are allowed to remain down with their weights hanging upon the threads
passing through such healds; but when the leno threads are caused to cross by
means of the "doup" healds in front, then these back healds between the bar, rod,
or roller, and the back rest aforesaid are raised for the purpose of giving slack
enough to compensate for such cross.
The harness of these lingoes is connected directly, without the intervention of
levers of any kind, to the hooks provided therefor in the jacquard machine, and
the lingoes may either be of sufficient weight for the purpose in themselves or may
be supplemented by a spring or weighted bar or roller bearing down to a fixed
stop or tension, either upon the lingoes, the harness, or the warp yarn, at the
requisite times; the tension being released, at the time of any leno threads crossing,
by means of a suitable tappet or cam, or by the jacquard machine lifting such bar
or roller, in which case the employment of light lingoes is sufficient to "straighten
the yarn, and the full tension is obtained by means of the spring or weighted bar
or roller beforementioned.
"
But that the improvements may be better understood, I will by the aid of the
accompanying drawing proceed more fully to describe means employed by me.

page_text: DESCRIPTION OF DRAWING.
The figure represents those portions of apparatus which are necessary to exhibit
my invention.
a, shews a section representing the back beam or rest over which the yarn passes
on its way from the yarn beam b, to the healds. This back rest may be either of
the stationary or vibratory kind.
At a convenient distance from the back rest a, is a bar or rod C, which may be
circular in cross section or any other convenient form. This rod or bar is fixed or
stationary and extends across the width of the loom or warp yarns. f, and g, are
the ordinary harness and lingoes of a single pair of warp ends, and h is the "doup"
harness, and the "doup" heald attached as is well understood. ), is a slacking
harness and lingoe. The whole of these harness f, g, and j, are continued direct to
the books of the jacquard, and the cards are so punched, that when the "doup
harness is lifted and the cross is put on the yarn, the harness j is lifted at the same
time and so lets slack the thread of yarn passing through it from the warp, and
when the "doup" harness falls again the back harness ; falls with it and so takes
up the slack of the thread, and keeps the yarn tight or weighted to its work.
"
The lingoes to the harness; may either be heavy enough for the purpose, or may
be supplemented by a bar, rod, or moveable cumberboard acting mechanically, or
by springs, or weights, upon them to force them down, after each motion or pick,
or after each cross weave, to their proper position; in which case very light lingoes
may be employed.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is
The employment of back harness with lingoes in conjunction with a fixed bar
or rod, such harness being tied up direct to the jacquard, for the purpose of taking
up the slack in fancy leno or cross weaving in manner substantially as shewn and
described.