IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF VELVETS AND VELVETEENS
Year: 1860

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Thomas Mellodew, of Oldham, in the County
of Lancaster, Manufacturer, and Charles William Kesselmeyer, of
Manchester, in the said County, Warehouseman, for the. Invention of
Sealed the 12th February 1861, and dated the 16th August 1860.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Thomas Mellodew and
Charles William Kesselmeyer at the Office of the Commissioners of
Patents, with their Petition, on the 16th August 1860.
We, THOMAS MELLODEW, of Oldham, in the County of Lancaster, Manu-
facturer, and CHARLES WILLIAM KESSELMEYER, of Manchester, in the said
County, Warehouseman, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention
for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF VELVETS AND VELVETEENS," to be
as follows:-
Our Invention relates to velvets or velveteens with a silk face, in which the
pile is produced by weft threads floated over warp threads, and consists in a
method of combining the said threads, whereby the pile, when cut, is more
securely attached than by the ordinary method of weaving such fabrics. This we
accomplish by interweaving the floating weft up and down with three or more
warp threads instead of passing as a loop around one. We have stated that.
our Invention refers to fabrics with a silk face, but materials of other descrip-
tions may be mixed therewith.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Thomas Mellodew and Charles William Kesselmeyer in the
Great Seal Patent Office on the 16th February 1861.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, THOMAS
MELLODEW, of Oldham, in the County of Lancaster, Manufacturer, and CHARLES
WILLIAM KESSELMEYER, of Manchester, in the said County, Warehouseman,
send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Sixteenth day of August, One thousand eight
bundred and sixty, in the twenty-fourth year of Her reign, did, for Her-
self, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto us, the said Thomas
Mellodew and Charles William Kesselmeyer, Her special license that we,
the said Thomas Mellodew and Charles William 'Kesselmeyer; our execu-
tors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as we, the said Thomas
Mellodew and Charles William Kesselmeyer, our executors, administrators,
and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time
and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and
lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom
of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an
Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF VELVETS AND VELVETEENS,"
upon the condition, amongst others, that we; the said Thomas Mellodew and
Charles William Kesselmeyer, or one of us, by an instrument in writing
under our hands and seals, or under the hand and seal of one of us, should par-
ticularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what
manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in
the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and imme-
diately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Charles William Kesselmeyer, do hereby
declare the nature of our said Invention, and in what manner the same is
to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement and accompanying Drawings (that is to say):-
.
Our Invention relates to the manufacture of velvets and velveteens with a
silk face, in which the. plush or pile. is produced by silk weft threads in the
grey or undyed state floated over warp threads of cotton, silk, linen, 'or any
other substance, and which fabrics may. afterwards be dyed in the piece.
Before particularly describing and ascertaining the nature of our Invention
we make the following preliminary remarks; 'velvets and velveteens of the
above-named description, as hitherto made, consist of a close and firm back, in

page_text: the formation of which every warp thread is employed. Into every alternate
warp thread of this back there are interwoven weft threads, which float on the
face and form a surface between which and the back a cutter's guide and
knife can be introduced, so as to cut open the floating weft threads, which
afterwards form the plush or pile of the fabric. These fabrics have hitherto
been manufactured in such a manner that, the weft threads intended to form
the plush or pile were made to float over five or more warp threads according
to the depth of pile required, and then to go under or interweave with oue
warp thread only, then to float again over five or more warp threads and go
under one warp thread, and so on continuously across the whole width of the
piece. The constitution of such fabrics, as hitherto manufactured, will best be
understood by reference to Diagram 1, which is a section of uncut velvet, mag-
nified, leaving out the weft threads, which are ouly used for the formation of
the back, and shewing the manner in which the weft threads, which form the
plush or pile of the old make of velvet, are interwoven with the warp threads
by going under one warp thread only between every successive floating over
five warp threads, or if a greater depth of pile be required between every suc-
cessive, floating, over seven or more warp threads. Diagram 2 represents the
same fabric, also leaving out the back weft threads after having undergone the
process of cutting and finishing, that is after the weft floats have been cut
open with a cutter's knife, thus forming the plush or pile. From both these
Diagrams, Nos. 1 and 2, it will be seen that the weft floats in-the uncut state,
which when cut form the pile, and therefore also, the plush or pile itself are
only kept attached to the back of the fabric by going under or half round one
warp thread in every combination of six or more warp. threads with weft
threads, thus forming when cut a kind of loop completely open at one end: It
will easily be seen from this arrangement that the pile when cut must be very
liable to slip out through the back of the fabric, as there is nothing whatever
to prevent the open loops of. pile from doing so, and this has indeed been
proved to be the case both during the process of cutting, dyeing, and finishing,
as well as during the subsequent use of such fabrics when finished, thus occa
sioning great and serious damage. Now our present Invention consists in
manufacturing, the above description of fabrics with comparatively fast pile, and
this we accomplish by interweaving the floating weft threads, which are to
produce the plush or pile up and down with three or more warp threads,
instead of passing them as. a loop under or half round one warp thread only;
that is to say, we manufacture these fabrics upon our improved method in such
a manner, for example, that the weft threads intended to form the plush or
pile are made to float over five or more warp threads according to the depth

page_text: of pile required, then to go under one warp thread, then again over the next'
warp thread, and then again under the third warp thread, after which inter-
weaving of the weft threads down, up, and down with the warp threads, they
are again made to float over five or more warp threads, and then to inter-
weave again down, up, and down with three warp threads, as before stated,
and so on continuously across the whole width of the piece. This inter-
weaving down, up, and down of the floating weft threads with the threads
warp
may of course be varied in many different ways, for instance, by making the
floating weft threads to pass under one warp thread, then over two or three
warp threads, and then again under one warp thread, or under. 2 over 1, and
under one or two warp threads, or under two, over two, and under one or two
warp threads, or in any other way down, up, and down any number of warp
threads, provided the floating weft threads are interwoven up and down with
more than one warp thread. If still greater security of pile should be required,
this interweaving up and down of the floating weft threads with the warp.
threads may still be carried on further, for instance, the floating weft threads
may be made-to-pass-under one warp thread, over the next, under the third,
over the fourth, and under the fifth warp thread before they are again made
to float over the requisite number of warp threads for the formation of the
plush or pile, and this process may be carried on to any extent, and may be
varied, as stated before, in many different ways, provided the interweaving of
the floating weft threads with any number of warp threads takes place up and
down with such warp threads. The constitution of these improved fabrics will
best be understood by reference to Diagrams 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, and 12,
of which 3, 5, 7, 9, and 11 are magnified sections of our improved fabrics in
the uncut state; and Diagrams 4, 6, 8, 10, and 12 are magnified sections of the
same fabrics after having been cut, in both cases leaving out the weft threads,
which are only used for the formation of the back, in order to make the repre-
sentation of interweaving the floating weft threads for the formation of the
pile up and down with the warp threads more clear and simple. As stated
before, these Diagrams, however, only represent a few of the various ways in
which our improvements of interweaving the floating weft threads for the
formation of the plush or pile up and down with the warp threads
may be
carried out, but they will be found sufficient to shew the nature and principle
of our Invention. In these Diagrams we have purposely left out representing
the back of the fabric, which back is formed by interweaving weft threads with
the warps after any usual manner.
Having thus described the nature of our Invention in general terms, we
proceed to describe particularly the manner in which it is to be performed.

page_text: The warp for the production of our improved fabrics is prepared in the same
manner as for the old make, as far as dressing, or sizing and winding on the
yarn beam are concerned according to the method best adapted for the par-
ticular material employed for such warp. The number of shafts and healds
employed in the manufacture of these improved fabrics of course varies
according to the particular description of improved pile which it is intended
to produce; for instance, in order to produce a pile fabric like that shewn in
Diagrams 3 and 4 with a plain or tabby back, it will require a combination
of eight warp threads with weft threads, 10 weft threads being the most
convenient number for this purpose, though by either reducing or augmenting
the relative proportion of floating face weft threads to the binding back weft
threads, the number of weft threads in combination with the above named
eight warp threads may be varied to suit the intention of making a fabric
either with a thinner or fuller face of pile. This combination of eight warp
threads with ten weft threads is represented by the weaver's draft No. 13,
and is there laid down in the simplest and clearest manner as requiring eight
shafts with a straight gait over, drawing in in the usual manner well known to
the practical weaver. Thus it will be seen, that in the combination of eight
warp threads with ten weft threads, as represented by the weaver's draft
No. 13, the first weft thread represented by the vertical line 1, which is a
back weft thread only used for the formation of the back of the fabric, passes
or floats over the second, fourth, sixth, and eighth warp threads of such com-
bination, and under the first, third, fifth, and seventh warp threads, such
warp threads being represented by the horizontal lines in the weaver's draft;
the second weft, thread, which is a floating or face weft thread used for the
formation of the pile, passes or floats over the first, third, fifth, sixth, seventh,
and eighth warp threads, and under the second and fourth; the third weſt
thread, which is again a floating or face weft thread for the formation of the
pile, passes or floats over the first, second, third, fifth, seventh, and eighth
warp threads, and under the fourth and sixth. The fourth weft thread, which
is again a floating or face weft thread for the formation of the pile, passes or
floats over the first, second, third, fourth, fifth, and seventh warp threads, and
under the sixth and eighth, the fifth weft thread, which is again a floating or
face weft thread, for the formation of the pile, passes or floats over the first,
third, fourth, fifth, sixth, and seventh warp threads, and under the second and
eighth, the sixth weft thread, which is again a back weft thread used only for
the formation of the back of the fabric, passes or floats over the first, third,
fifth, and seventh warp threads, and under the second, fourth, sixth and eighth.
warp threads, thus exactly reversing the position of the waft and warp threads

page_text: from that in which they were placed in the back of the fabric by the first weft
thread of the combination, and thus producing a plain or tabby back. The
seventh weft thread, which is again a floating or face weft thread for the for-
'mation of the pile, passes or floats over the first, third, fifth, sixth, seventh, and
eighth warp threads, and under the second and fourth, the eighth weft thread,
which is again a floating or face weft thread for the formation of the pile,
passes or floats over the first, second, third, fifth, seventh, and eighth warp
thrends, and under the fourth and sixth; the ninth weft thread, which is again
a floating or face weft thread for the formation of the pile, passes or floats
over the first, second, third, fourth, fifth, and seventh warp threads, and under
the sixth and eighth, and the tenth weft thread, which is again a floating or
face weft thread for the formation of the pile, passes or floats over the first,
third, fourth, fifth, sixth, and seventh warp threads, and under the second and
eighth. It is obvious, that if it is intended to make an improved pile fabric,
consisting of a combination of eight warp threads with ten weft threads
according to the weaver's draft No. 18, it will require a set of healds con-
sisting of eight shafts, each shaft containing-individual-healds-or-loops to the
amount of one-eighth part of the whole number of warp threads on the yarn
beam. The drawing in of the warp threads into the healds has in this case
to be carried on in a regular manner consecutively across the whole of the
eight shafts, the first warp thread being drawn through the first heald or loop
of the first shaft, the second warp thread through the first heald or loop of
the second shaft; the third warp thread through the first heald or loop of the
third 'shaft, and so on to the eighth warp thread through the first heald or
loop on the eighth shaft, after which the ninth warp thread is drawn through
the second-heald or loop of the first shaft, the tenth warp thread through the
'second heald or loop of the second shaft, and so on in regular succession
across the eight shafts, till the whole number of warp threads on the yarn beam
have been drawn in through the healds or loops of the eight shafts. The
drawing in into the reed is performed in the usual manner, either one, two,
three, or more warp threads being inserted and drawn through the open space
between each consecutive two dents of the reed. Instead of employing 'eight
shafts for producing the improved pile fabric of a combination of eight warp
threads with weft threads, the same result may, however, be obtained by using
only seven, six, or even five shafts. The drawing in of the warp threads will,
however, in this case not be a straight gait over, but will vary in different
ways according to the number of shafts intended to be employed in the manu-
'facture, as is well understood by practical weavers.
To illustrate this we again refer to the weaver's draft No. 13, where it will

page_text: be
seen,
that in employing eight shafts and a straight gait over, drawing in
the warp threads which are drawn through the healds or loops of the first,
third, fifth, and seventh shafts are designed to be either raised or lowered at
the same time, and in the same manner throughout the whole combination of
warp and weft threads; all these four warp threads, one, three, five, and seven,
passing over the first weft thread only, and under the second, third, fourth,
fifth, sixth, seventh, eighth, ninth, and tenth weft threads of each such com-
bination. The warp threads which are drawn through the healds or loops on
the first, third, fifth, and seventh shafts have, therefore, to lie always in exactly
the same position during the process of weaving, being either raised or lowered
at the same time and in the same manner. It is, therefore, possible, by
having the healds or loop holes which are spread or knit over these four
shafts all mounted or knit on one shaft to produce exactly the same result, in
which case this one shaft must contain four times as many individual healds or
loop holes as any one of the remaining four shafts, or exactly one-half of the
whole number of warp threads on the yarn beam, or else the healds or loop
holes on the first, third, fifth, and seventh shafts may be kuit on two shafts,
each shaft containing double the number of individual healds or loop holes as
any of the remaining four shafts; or else on two shafts, of which one contains
the same number of individual healds, and the second three times the number
of individual healds knit on any one of the remaining four shafts, in which
case the same fabric can be produced by using six shafts. In the same
manner seven shafts may be employed, by uniting the healds or loop holes of
two shafts out of the four which have been named upon one shaft, this one
shaft containing in this case double the number of individual healds or loop
holes as any one of the remaining six. Now, all these various ways will
produce the same result, but the drawing in through the healds must be varied
to suit the number of shafts employed.
The weaver's draft, No. 14, represents the manner of producing our improved
pile fabric consisting of combinations of eight warp threads with ten weft
threads, by using only five shafts, exactly the same as that produced by the
weaver's draft No. 13, which employs eight shafts, showing the manner in
which the drawing in must be varied to suit the five shafts. If it is intended
to produce an improved pile fabric same as shown in Diagrams 3 and 4, but
with a deeper or longer plush or pile than that which can be produced in the
same reed by making use of the weaver's drafts Nos. 13 or 14, it can easily be
done by manufacturing the fabric from combinations of ten warp threads with
twelve weft threads, as shewn in the weaver's draft or pattern No. 15, which
will produce the required result by using a set of healds consisting of ten

page_text: 1
shafts with a straight gait over drawing in, or else as shewn in the weaver's
draft or pattern No. 16, which will produce the same result as No. 15, by
using a set of. healds consisting of only six shafts, with a drawing in," of
which the gait over is varied in such a manner as to suit the reduction of the
number of shafts from ten to six, as explained. before, and easily understood by
,the practical weaver. If a fabric is required same as shewn in Diagrams 3
and 4, with a plain or tabby back, but with a still deeper or longer plush or
pile than that which can be produced in the same reed by making use of the
weaver's 'drafts Nos. 15, and 16, it may be done by manufacturing the fabric
from a combination of twelve warp threads with fourteen weft threads, as shewn
in the weaver's drafts or patterns Nos. 17 and.18, the former requiring twelve
shafts, and the latter producing exactly the same result, with seven shafts, as
explained before. In order to produce a fabric with a face of plush or pile
same as shewn in Diagrams 5 and 6, and with a plain or tabby back, we make
use of the weaver's drafts Nos. 19 to 24, No. 19 and 20, both producing a
fabric with a comparatively low or short pile; Nos. 21 and 22, the same fabric
.with a deeper or longer pile, and Nos. 23 and 24 again the same fabric with
a still deeper or longer pile, draft No. 20 being merely the reduction to the
smallest number of shafts of draft No. 19; draft No. 22 a similar reduction
of draft No. 21, and draft No. 24, a similar reduction of draft No. 23, as
fully explained before. In order. to produce a fabric with a face of plush or
'pile same as shewn in Diagrams 7 and 8, and with a plain or tabby back, we
make use of the weaver's drafts Nos. 25 to 30, Nos. 25 and 26 both producing
"a fabric with a comparatively low or short pile; Nos. 27 and 28 the same
'fabric with a deeper or longer pile; and Nos. 29 and 30 again the same fabric
with a still deeper or longer pile, draft No. 26 being merely the reduction to
the smallest number of shafts of draft No. 25; draft No. 28 a similar
reduction of draft No. 27, and draft No. 30. a similar reduction of draft
.No. 29. In order to produce a fabric with a face of plush, or pile same as
shewn.in Diagrams 9 and 10, and with a plain or tabby back, we make use of
the weaver's drafts Nos. 31 to 33, No. 31 producing a fabric with a. com-
paratively low or short pile, No. 32 the same fabric with a deeper or longer
pile, and No. 33, again the same fabric, with a still deeper or longer pile.
These three drafts shew the smallest.number of shafts which are required for
-producing these improved pile fabrics with a face of plush. or pile same as
*shewn in Diagrams 9 and 10,.and, therefore, cannot be reduced to any less
number of shafts. In order to produce a fabric with a face of plush or pile
same as shewn in Diagrams. 11 and 12, we make use of the weaver's drafts
Nos. 34 to 36, No. 34 producing a fabric with a comparatively low or short
.

page_text: pile, No. 35 the same fabric with a deeper or longer pile, and No. 36, again.
the same fabric with a still deeper or longer pile. These three drafts shew the
smallest number of shafts which are required for producing these fabrics with
a face of plush or pile same as shewn in Diagrams 11 and 12, and, therefore,.
cannot be reduced to any less number of shafts. All these drafts may be
varied to produce still deeper pile by extending the face weft float in the com-*
bination of warp threads with weft threads, and adapting the weaver's draft to'
the new combination. If still greater security of pile should be required, the:
interweaving of the floating weft threads intended for the production of the
plush or pile down, up, and down with the warp threads, may be extended to
any number of warp threads. For instance, these floating weft threads may:
be interwoven, down, up, down, up and down with five or more warp threads ;'
or down, up, down, up, down, up and down with seven or more warp threads,
and so on to any extent. To accomplish these ends the weaver's draft must be:
adapted to, the particular description of pile fabric intended to be produced in
the manner well known to competent persons. In pile fabrics made according.
to the weaver's drafts Nos. 19 to 30, the plush or pile will stand farther apart
than what it will in fabrics made according to the weaver's drafts Nos. 13'
to 18, and Nos. 31 to 36. In the former cases a finer reed would, therefore,
be required, and of course a greater number of warp threads, in order to
produce the same width of cloth; but the same reed with the increased.
number of warp threads might be used by drawing in the said warp threads:
three in a dent, in lieu of two, that is to say, by drawing three consecutive;
warp threads through the space between each two consecutive dents of
the reed.
The different combinations of warp threads with weft threads for the pro-
duction of the fabrics, which we have thus far described, have all been adapted!
to fabrics with a plain or tabby back, thus producing tabby or plain back.
velvets with the improved plush or pile. Our improved method of inter-
weaving the floating weft threads down, up and down, with three or more
warp threads may, however, also be adapted to fabrics with any sort of twill:
back, thus producing Genoa or twilled back velvet and velveteens; the
difference between the two consisting principally in the latter being made in
coarser reed and of coarser warp and weft than the former, thus producing
a heavier and stouter fabric. The manner in which this adaptation to twill
back fabrics is to be carried out is well known to practical designers of
weavers' drafts; but for the better illustration of this adaptation we refer to
the weaver's drafts Nos. 37 to 45; all of which are various adaptations of our
Invention of improved pile to fabrics made with various sorts of twill back:

page_text: Thus, drafts Nos. 37 and 88 will produce pile fabrics with the same description
of plush or pile as shewn in Diagrams 3 and 4, and of the same length or
depth of pile as by weaver's draft No. 17, but with a three-leaf twill back, by
combinations of twelve warp threads with twenty-one weft threads, No. 87
by employing twelve shafts, and No. 88 by employing only nine shafts.
Weaver's drafts Nos. 39 and 40 will produce pile fabrics with the same
description of plush or pile as shewn in Diagrams 3 and 4, and of the same
length or depths of pile as by weaver's draft No. 17, but with a four-leaf.
twill back; by combinations of twelve warp threads with twenty-eight weft
threads, No. 39 by employing twelve shafts, and No. 40 by employing eight
shafts. Weaver's drafts No. 41 and 42 will produce fabrics with the same
description of plush or pile as shewn in Diagrams 3 and 4, and of the
same length or depth of pile as by weaver's draft No. 17, but with a double
twill back, by combinations of twelve warp threads with twenty-eight weft
threads. No. 41 by employing twelve shafts, and No. 42 by employing eight
shafts. Weaver's draft No. 43 will produce a fabric with the same description
of plush or pile as shewn in Diagrams 3 and 4, and of the same length or
depth of pile as by weaver's draft No. 15, but with a five-leaf twill back, by
combinations of ten warp threads with thirty weft threads, and by employing
ten shafts, which is the smallest number of shafts to which it is reduceable
In the same manner these and all other descriptions of twill backs may be
adapted to the production of fabrics with the various descriptions of plush or
pile, as shewn in Diagrams 3 to 12, or of any other variety of pile, and of any
length or depth of pile required, which adaptation can easily be accomplished
by the practical designer of weavers' drafts. Thus, for instance, weaver's
drafts Nos. 44 and 45 shew the adaptation to a three-leaf twill back of plush
or pile, same as shewn in Diagrams 3 and 4, and of the same length or depth
of pile as that produced by weaver's draft No. 13, this fabric being produced
by combinations of twenty-four warp threads with fifteen weft threads, weaver's
draft No. 44 requiring twenty-four shafts, and No. 45 requiring only fifteen
shafts for this purpose, and so on with every other substitution. of twill back
of any sort for plain or tabby back in the formation of our improved piled
fabric:
In the production of these various plain and twill back fabrics with improved
pile it is not exactly necessary to adhere to the exact proportion of the number
of floating face weft threads for the formation of the plush or pile; to that of
the binding back weft threads required only for the formation of the back of
the fabric, as laid down in the various weavers' drafts Nos. 13 to 45, but any
other number of floating face weft threads for the formation of the plush or

page_text: pile may be substituted and inserted between each such two successive binding
back weft threads; for instance, in weaver's draft No. 37 there are six floating
face weft threads employed for the formation of plush or pile for every binding
back weft thread required only for the formation of the back, thus requiring
a combination of twelve warp threads with twenty-one weft threads for the
production of this description of pile fabric, but instead of this, the pro-
portionate number of floating face weft threads may be reduced to four for
every binding back weft thread, which will reduce the combination to one of
twelve warp threads with fifteen weft threads, and thus increase the facility
of weaving, though it will make the face thinner of pile. This reduction is
shewn in weaver's draft Nos. 46 and 47, of which the former requires twelve
shafts, and the latter only nine shafts for the production of this pile fabric with
a thinner face of plush or pile. In a similar manner .every other alteration in
the number of floating face weft threads for the formation of the plush or pile
in proportion to that of the binding back weft threads required only for the
formation of the back, may be carried out with respect to every description of
our improved fabrics with plain or twill back, which can easily be accomplished
by the practical designer of weavers' drafts.
From what we have thus far stated, it will be seen that our Invention of
interweaving the floating weft threads for the production of the plush or pile
down, up and down, with three or more warp threads, can be adapted to an
almost endless variety of combinations of warp threads with weft threads,
according to the particular description of pile fabric required; we have, how-
ever, endeavoured to describe those more particularly which we consider the
best adapted for practical purposes. Our improved pile fabric having been
woven, the floating face weft threads intended for the formation of the plush
or pile must now be cut open, which is done in the usual manner by intro-
ducing a cutter's guide and knife into the races formed between the back and
the floating surface of the fabric, which guide and knife are run along the
races parallel with the warp threads, and thus cut open or divide the floating
face weft threads, and produce the plush or pile. The cutter's knife and guide
will, of course, require adaptation to the new fabric, so as to fill the race, and
divide the floating face weft threads as near as can be in the middle of such
floats, in order to produce plush or pile of equal height or length, which
adaptation can easily be carried out by the practical fustian cutter. When
cut, these pile fabrics may be scoured, dressed, dyed, or printed, and finished
in the same manner as the old make of loose pile silk velvets. which processes
they stand much better than the latter, owing to the pile being comparatively

page_text: fast, and firmly imbedded in the back of the cloth, so that it cannot easily
come out while undergoing these various processes.
Having thus described and ascertained the nature of our said Invention,
and the manner in which the same is to be performed, we desire it to be
-understood that we do not limit ourselves to the particular combinations of
warp and weft threads above described, and explained by reference to the
accompanying Diagrams and weavers' drafts; or to the use of the apparatus
*mentioned in connexion therewith; as jacquard or other similar machinery
may be employed, if desired; we would also remark, that we have spoken of
the face of our improved fabric as being composed of silk, but other materials
may be mixed therewith; but we claim as our Invention the manufacture of
velvets and velveteens by interweaving the floating face weft threads up and
down with three or more warp threads, such floating weft threads consisting
of silk, or partly of silk in the grey or undyed state.
In witness whereof, I, the said Charles William Kesselmeyer, have
hereunto set my hand and seal, this Fifteenth day of February, in
the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-one.
C. W. KESSELMEYER. (L.S.) ·