An Improved Manufacture of Neckties or Oravats and Machinery or Apparatus therefor.
Year: 1893

page_text: Date of Application, 11th Jan., 1893
Complete Specification Left, 11th Oct., 1893—Accepted, 11th Nov., 1893
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
An Improved Manufacture of Neckties or Oravats and Machinery or
Apparatus therefor.
I, WILLIAM WILLERINGHAUS, of 13 Hamsell Street, Falcon Square, in the
City of London, Merchant, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as
follows:-
hands."
"
"
$
This invention relates to the manufacture of that class of neckties or cravats
which are narrowed or ❝ fashioned at the parts which go round the neck and
which are generally known in the trade as "Ascots 66
Derby" and "Four-in-
Hitherto in the manufacture of such ties it has been the practice to turn in each
of the edges of the part which is to be "fashioned" and to stitch or sew the same
in position.
According to my invention I manufacture and fashion such ties of a braided
fabric of which the "fashioned" portion is formed tubular thus avoiding the
necessity of stitching. For this purpose I employ a braiding machine so con-
structed and arranged that when the "fashioned" or tubular part of the necktie
is to be formed the bobbins are caused to move in a circular path to attain the
desired result.
It will be obvious that according to my invention neckties can be made tubular
throughout and "fashioned" or not as required.
Dated the 11th day of January 1802
G. F. REDFERN & Co.,
4, South Street, Finsbury, London, Agents for the Applicant.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
An Improved Manufacture of Neckties or Cravats and Machinery or
Apparatus therefor.
I, WILLIAM WILLERINGHAUS, of 13, Hamsell Street, Falcon Square, in the
City of London, Merchant, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in
what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This invention relates to the manufacture of that class of neckties or cravats
which are narrowed or "fashioned" at the parts which go round the neck and
which are generally known in the trade as "Ascots," "Derby" and "Four-in-
hands."
Hitherto in the manufacture of such ties it has been the practice to turn in each
of the edges of the part which is to be "fashioned" and to stitch or sew the same
in position.
According to my invention I manufacture and fashion such ties of a braided
fabric of which the "fashioned" portion is formed tubular thus avoiding the
necessity of stitching. For this purpose I employ a braiding machine so con-
structed and arranged that when the "fashioned or tubular part of the necktie is
to be formed the bobbins are caused to move in a continuous circular path to attain
the desired result.
To enable my invention to be fully understood I will describe how it can be
carried into practice by reference to the accompanying drawings, in which :-
Figure 1 is a view of a necktie or cravat manufactured according to my
vention.

page_text: 4
Figure 2 is a view of part of a continuous length of alternately flat and tubular
braided fabric from which the said neckties or cravats are cut.
Figure 3 is an elevation, partly in section of an ordinary braiding machine
adapted to manufacture the said braided fabric.
Figures and 5 are diagrammatic plan views of part of the machine illustrating
the movements of the bobbins, and,
Figure 6 is a perspective view of another part of the machine.
a, a, Figure 2 are the flat portions of the braided fabric of which my neckties or
cravats (one of which is shewn at Figure 1) are manufactured and b, b are the
fashioned portions of the same formed tubular in order to avoid the necessity of
stitching.
c, c, Figures 3 and 4 are the top and bottom plates respectively of the braiding
machine; d, d are the plates which, in conjunction with an aperture usually in the
form of a nearly complete circle in the top plate c in which they are placed, form
the serpentine guide e for the bobbins f; 9, 9 are the vane-wheels and h, h are the
gear wheels by which the required motion is communicated from each vane-
wheel to the next all the said parts being of the construction usual in machines for
making flat braided fabric.
In order to adapt such a machine for making the fabric illustrated in Figure 1,
I make the said aperture in the form of a complete circle as shewn in Figure 4
and place therein an additional plate d so as to make the serpentine guide e
continuous, an additional vane wheel and gear wheel being also provided for the
Baid plate d³.
Plates, of the shape shewn are placed in correspondingly shaped extensions of
the aperture in the top plate e so as to form loops or bye passages j, j' in the
guide e; a vane-wheel k and a gear wheel are provided for each of the plates i, i¹
and an auxiliary vane-wheel m and gear wheel (not shewn) for conducting the
bobbin from the loops j, j to the guide e.
n, n' are switches working in the top plate c and adapted to alter the course of
the bobbins in the manner hereinafter described. These switches are provided
with cranks o connected by a rod p shewn in dotted lines in Figure 4, the switch n
being further fitted with a lever q upon which bear segmental plates r, r¹ carried
by the bosses of toothed wheels 8, s¹ gearing together. The wheel is provided
with a spring pawl t and is rotated one tooth at a time by projections u on one or
more of the bobbins f.
By this arrangement the bobbins f can be caused to turn back at the end
plates d', d¹ so as to form a flat braided fabric as usual or continue their circular
serpentine course from the said end plates round the additional plate d³ so as to
form a tubular braided fabric. For example suppose the switches n, n¹ to be in the
position shewn in Figure 4. The bobbins will pass in the direction of the arrows
until they have sufficiently rotated the wheels to cause its plate r, by bearing upon
the lever g, to shift the switches n, n¹ into the position shewn by the dotted lines in
Figure 5. The bobbins will then be guided from the end plates d¹, d¹ in the
direction of the arrows (Figure 5) round the plates i, back to the serpentine
guide e and so on until the plate on the wheel s¹ has shifted the switches n, n¹
back to their former position shewn in Figure 4 when the bobbins will again follow
a continuous circular serpentine course and so on.
The relative lengths of flat and tubular fabric produced depend upon the size of
the wheels s, s' or the number of teeth in the same.
The threads v from the bobbins f pass to the recess in the bracket plate was in
ordinary braiding machines of this kind, where they are plaited together by the
continued motion of the bobbins f in the guide into the braided fabric x,
Figures 3 and 6.
In the said recess is arranged a pair of arms or fingers y, y pivotted to a plate z
carried by a rod a' adjustably clamped in a bracket on the top plate c. The
fingers y have downward extensions e' carrying pins f' upon which bear springs g₁
secured to the plate z, the tendency of the said springs being to separate the

page_text: fingers y; is a guide bar for the extensions e'. The plate z and fingers y are
inclined towards the guide roller and the said fingers serve to spread out or
flatten the tubular portions of the fabric and cause the edges of the flat portions to
run off gradually and symmetrically into the tubular portions. This is effected by
the fingers'y being gradually drawn together by the threads, as they converge in
the machine, as soon as they commence to form the tubular portions; the fingers
then separate gradually as the junction of the tubular and flat portions moves
upwards and the said tubular portions are thereby caused to reach the guide roller
and subsequently the stretching and pressing rollers ¹ in a flat condition. In
order to allow of adjusting the extent of opening of the fingers y according to the
width of the fabric to be made I provide adjustable stops m', m¹ which limit the
inward movement of the extensions e¹.
It will be obvious that according to my invention neckties can be made' tubular
throughout and "fashioned" or not as required.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is:-
1. The process of manufacture of neckties or cravats of the kind set forth
consisting in producing in a plaiting or braiding machine a braided fabric having
alternate flat and tubular portions, from which the neckties or cravats are cut the
said tubular portions forming the narrowed or fashioned parts of the neckties,
substantially as and for the purpose hereinbefore described.
2. A braiding machine for the manufacture of neckties or cravats in which the
bobbins are caused to move in a continuous circular serpentine path to form the
fashioned or tubular parts of the neckties and in a backward and forward circular
serpentine path to form the flat portions of the neckties, substantially as hereinbefore
described and illustrated in Figures 3, 4 and 5 of the accompanying drawings.
3. The improved machine for the manufacture of neckties or cravats hereinbefore
described and illustrated in Figures 3, 4, 5 and 6 of the accompanying drawings.
4. The manufacture and use of the improved necktie or cravat herein before
described and illustrated in Figure 1 of the accompanying drawings.
Dated the 11th day of October 1893
G. F. REDFERN & Co.,
4, South Street, Finsbury, London, Agents for the Applicant.