An Improved Method of, and Improvements in Means for, Blooking and Banding Felt Hats.
Year: 1895

page_text: Date of Application, 28th May, 1895-Accepted, 29th June, 1895
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
An Improved Method of, and Improvements in Means for, Blooking
and Banding Felt Hats.
1, GILES ATHERTON, of Virginia Mills, Higher Hillgate, Stockport, in the
County of Cheshire, Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in
what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement :-
My present invention relates particularly to a method of and means for blocking
and banding fur felt hat bodies, all of which require a tender, delicate and
careful treatment, which is quite unuecessary in blocking and banding wool felt
hats. The said invention can also be used for blocking and bauding wool felt
hats.
It is a well known fact, that felted fabrics which have been forced to assume
special forms, by stretching operations, invariably attempt to "crawl back" (in
hatters' terms) to forms more or less approximating to those in which the fabrics
were left by the original felting operation, and recognizing that fact, I have
sought, and as I believe accomplished for the first time, the development of the
band portion of a hat body by felting or what may be termed re-felting that
portion of the hat body, into the desired contracted peripheral form and
dimensious.
'
A properly stretched hat body, has a well defined tip, a side crown, and a brim;
bnt the hand portion, which is between the so defined side crown and brim, is
normally flaring, and of greater circumference than the side crown, and although
various methods have been heretofore devised and employed for developing said
band portion into a proper "band," all of said methods have involved a radical
straining and stretching of the felt, so that during subsequent hatting operations,
the tendency has been for the band to resume more or less nearly the original
enlarged and flaring shape or condition of the band portion of the hat body, and
the same is true of such hats when finished although in a measure such tendency
is checked, by the usual encircling textile fabric bands which are applied as
trimmings, and especially when such fabrics are practically non-extensible.
Inasmuch as all felting operations essentially involve contraction of the mass
of feltable fibre, it follows, that said mass cannot, while being felted, be subjected
to outward stretching or expanding forces but should be free to contract, within such
limits as may be prescribed by "forming" appliances or supports, upon and to
which, the fabric by contraction in felting is made to substantially conform, and
in the blocking and banding of felt hats, I have, as I believe, for the first time
succeeded in devising a method of, and means for, developing the band portion
of a stretched hat body, into a band appropriate to the side crown and brim, by
a felting or re-felting operation, and without the radical stretching forces involved
in all prior mechanical methods known to me.
My said novel method of blocking and banding felt hats consists of three steps
each of which will be separately defined, with an accompanying comparison thereof,
with such steps in prior or old methods, as may properly be compared with those
of my novel method.
The first step in my said method consists in distending the inverted crown of a
brim-clamped and properly stretched bat body by steam pressure, and permeating
it with very hot water, incident to condensation of the steam in direct contact
1

page_text: As compared with prior methods, the inverted hat body is wholly distended by
steam pressure, with the incident hot water permeation, whereas heretofore the hat
body was distended by the complete and forcible entry of a banding shell, and
the tip portion distended by steam pressure, with accompanying hot water.
Under the new method, the entire crown of a hat body is therefore more
thoroughly permeated with hot water and steam than by the old method, and
more completely distended and freed from wrinkles, without mechanical stresses.
The second step in my novel method consists, while the brim is clamped and
distended by steam and permeated with very hot water, in turning the hat right
side out by the gradual free insertion of an appropriate forming support or block,
and employing steam pressure for laying the felt upon the top and sides of the
block smoothly and compactly. This step differs from the operation in the prior
method referred to, in that in the latter, the inverted hat body is turned right
side out by the forcible and complete insertion of a block, and the felt is
mechanically strained and stretched upon the block by the banding shell, instead
of laying the felt smoothly and compactly upon the block at the side crown, and
tip, by steam pressure; it should be observed that the tip portion was exposed to
steam pressure under said prior method.
Otherwise stated, under the old inethod; the hat body is turned inside out by
the mechanical operation of a hollow shell forcibly applied until it occupies the
entire crown, whereas by the new method, a similar shell is slightly engaged with
the hat body near its band portion, and the crown is then blown inside out by
steam pressure, but the mode of inverting the hat body is in itself immaterial, so
long as it is done without straining the hat, and also so that the block or support,
in turning it right side out, can operate without straining the felt, and so that
enough space is afforded between the block and the shell, at all times, to permit
the steam to operate in compacting and laying the felt nipon the top and sides of
the block.
The third step in my novel method consists in gradually felting or re-felting
the band portion of the bat body, while it is still clamped at the brim, and
internally supported; and permeated by hot water and steain, and by said felting
operation peripherally contracting said band portion to dimensions and form
appropriate to the side crown of the hat, and in substantial conformity with or to
the corresponding portion of the hat support or block.
This mode of operation is radically new in the art of blocking and banding felt
.hats; as will be made apparent upon the following review of such prior methods as
are now commonly practised.
In the method heretofore adapted by me the felt is always mechanically strained
and distended by the conjoint action of a banding shell and a banding ring, and by
a forcibly introduced hat block; and such method is wholly devoid of any of that
so called "jiggering," or felt working action upon the hat body, which however
applied, is an absolutely essential action in all felting operations, and by means of
which a mass of feltable fibre is "felted," or in other words united, condensed in
mass and contracted.
This "jiggering" or felting action, must also be conducted in the presence of
very hot water, or ample steam moisture, and although such heat and moisture
were involved in said old method they served to facilitate the radical straining and
stretching to which the felt was subjected, the edge of the banding shell and the
edge of the banding ring, affording surfaces over and upon which, the felt was
continuously drawn and straived.
In my present method the necessary felting action is secured by causing the
banding shell to be fed with steam under pressure, and consequently supplied with
very hot water by condensation, and also by rapidly reciprocating the sbell with a
slight range of movement, in contact with the band portion of the hat body, said
movement being the "jiggering" action referred to; and the felting action is not
only due to the limited rapid movement but also to the fact that no expansive
stretching forces are involved, and also because the felt is thoroughly permeate

page_text: 5
ith very hot water and steam, and hence is alive, and promptly responsive to all
onditions which are favorable to changes of form, by that contraction which is
nevitable with felting action.
Another old method of later date than that herein above referred to and much
nore extensively employed than the prior method first mentioned, involves no
team pressure, and although the hat bodies are first dipped in hot water, no such
lesirable and effective temperature is possible as when steam is employed with its
very hot water of condensation, as by the new method, the hat bodies being in that
method, as in the old, more or less initially saturated with hot water.
The hat bodies are then "over stretched" at the side crown, (as by expanding
blocks), and this excessive or over stretching develops the upper part of the band
portiou by peripheral enlargement, and the lower part is reduced diametrically by
heavy stretching stresses on the felt, said stresses being mechanically applied in
vertical lines on the side crown, either as by a hand operated banding ring or by a
rapidly reciprocating banding ring having a comparatively wide range of movement,
co-operating with an auxiliary banding ring, a block, and radially operated brim
clamping and stretching tongs. This last named method was employed in the
banding of both fur and wool hats. The use of brim stretching tongs last referred
to require subsequent
to results in such distortion at the edges of brims as
clipping or trimming with a consequent waste in felt and felting material, which is
now wholly obviated.
A similar prior method is restricted to wool hats, and differs from that last
described, in involving but little if any over stretching of the side crown, and no
outward stretching strains upon the brim, but the band portion of the hat was
forced into shape by rapid brief stresses or heavy pulls applied to the side crown,
while the brim was positively clamped, and supported near the block by an
auxiliary banding ring. Wool hats thus banded, are in practice, subsequently tied
to, and steamed upon blocks, which results in so shrinking the band to the block,
as to perfect the formation of the band, beyond the results attainable by the
previous mechanical operation of the block and the banding rings, both reciprocating,
and auxiliary.
Briefly stated, in all of these prior methods, the band portion of the hat body
is made or forced to assume the required shape and also its reduced peripheral
dimensions by the stretching, pulling, and straining of the felt, which is under
stretching tension throughout the banding operation, whereas by my new method the
change in shape and peripheral dimensions is effected by felting action, with the
resulting shrinking or contracting of the felt, which is practically free from
stretching strains, and under no more tension than is requisite for enabling the
progressive operation of felting to be properly accomplished.
The means devised by me, with special reference to blocking and banding of hats
in accordance with my novel method, involve many valuable novel features, with
objects as follows viz. for favorably clamping the brim of the hat body for readily
mounting and detaching the banding shell, for concentrically gauging the hat body
and securing its proper presentation to the shell; for securing the inversion and
distension of the entire crown of a hat body by steam pressure; for so organizing
the brim clamp the block and the banding shell, as to enable an inverted hat body
to be turned right side out without straining the hat body, and enabling the tip and
side crown to be compacted and laid upon the block by the pressure of steam, for
varying the co-operative relations in position, and as to time, between the brim clamp
and the banding shell and block; for automatically and variably controlling the
weighted portion of the brim clamp; also for stopping the machine with the block
and brim support, in such position as will enable the block with a hat thereon, to
be removed at will, and for thereafter dropping the block carrier below said
support..
These features involve various novelties in construction and organization.
For particularly describing the novel method herein before indicated, and the
mechanism which has been devised by me with special reference to operating under

page_text: said method, reference will be hard to the accompanying drawings, of which, there
are seven sheets and figures as follows
Figures 1, 2, 3, and 4 respectively, illustrate in longitudinal section a felt hat cone,
a tip stretched hat body, a brim stretched hat body, and a banded hat.
Figure 5 illustrates in section a properly stretched hat body, a steam fed banding
shell and a brim clamp also a hat block in elevation.
Figure 6 illustrates the same parts as Figure 5 but with the working devices in
such relations that the inversion of the hat body has been commenced by the action
of the steam.
Figure 7 illustrates the hat body inverted by steam pressure and distended, the
wrinkles being removed and the felt permeated with steam and hot water from
condensation.
Figure 8 illustrates the progressive turning of the hat body right side out by the
block, the tip and side crown being smoothly laid and compacted by the pressure
of steam, and with the felt between the brim and the block free from strains.
Figure 9 illustrates the beginning of the felting action upon the band portion of
the hat bod v.
Figure 10 illustrates the closing of the felting action and indicates the change
in the position of the brim, in passing from the conditions shown in Figure 9 to
those of Figure 10, for relieving the brim from undue strains.
Figure 11 is a side elevation of my new machine with the working parts at rest,
but ready for operation.
Figure 12 illustrates in separate parts an adjustable double cam which may be
termed the brim clamp operating cam.
Figure 13 illustrates the double cam, united, the dotted lines showing the
cam which operates the hat block spindle, and which also at times controls the
brim clamp.
Figure 14 is a vertical section of the machine, with the parts in the same position
as in Figure 11.
Figure 15 is a bottom view of the cap section of the brim clamp.
Figure 16 illustrates the machine mainly in transverse vertical section but with
several portions removed, and with the brim clamp and banding shell in positions
as shown in Figures 11 and 14, but with the hat block carrying a banded hat, and
in the position it occupies at the close of each operation.
Figure 17 is a longitudinal section of the automatic steam valve which controls
the delivery of steam to the banding shell.
Figure 18 is a horizontal section of the machine near its base, showing the main
operating mechanism in top view.
Figure 19 illustrates the banding shell detached in two views viz. a longitudinal
section and a top view or plan.
Figure 20 is a side elevation and bottom plan view of the stem by which the
banding shell is mounted for service.
Figure 21 is a partial horizontal section of the machine and shows the starting
and stopping mechanism and the means for holding and releasing an auxiliary block
carrier.
Figures 22 and 23 are respectively top and bottom plan views of an adjustable
brim gauge and clamp base.
Figures 24 and 25 are transverse sections of the same on different diametric
lines.
Figure 26 is a vertical section of the machine similar to Figure 14 but with the
banding shell, the brim clamp, and the hat block, in the positions occupied by them
when concluding the banding operation.
In Figure 1, the hat body or cone A is fairly illustrated in its original felted
form. Such a cone having been properly subjected to the tip stretching operation
assumes a form fairly indicated by the hat body A¹, Figure 2, and after brim
stretching it assumes a form fairly indicated by the hat body A, Figure 3, the
body being then ready for blocking or banding and its parts being therein indicated

page_text: as follows, tip a, side crown 3, and brim c, with an enlarged or flaring part at d,
which is between the side crown and brim and constitutes the band portion of the
hat body which must be developed into a perfect baud d' as in the fairly shown
blacked and banded hat A³, Figure 4.
The conversion of this Haring band portion d, into a proper hand, is one of
the most critical operations in the art of fur felt hatting, and it is to this particular
conversion or banding operation, that my present invention wholly pertains, it
being understood, that the term "blocking at this stage of hatting, consists
mainly of said "banding" operation, but also includes more or less crown
shaping.
The heating and wetting, and the mechanical elements which directly co-operate
with each other and upon a hat body for carrying out my novel method, briefly
stated are as follow: A source of steam (not shown) for delivery of steam under
pressure by way of a pipe e, Figure 5, to a banding shell B, the condensation of
the steam affording very hot water in ample quantity A brim clamp in two parts
riz.: a base C, and a clamping cap C', and a block D, these parts being provided
with appropriate means essential to their proper co-operation.
Preparatory to the first step in my novel method, the bat body A, as shown in
Figure 5, is mounted on the base of the clamp, and is then clamped at its brim,
and with its crown upright is so presented to the shell B, that the latter can closely
engage with a portion thereof, as shown in Figure 6; steam upon being admitted to
the shell under proper pressure, will then invert the hat body, and smoothly distend
it, as shown in Figure 7, the felt being permeated by the steam, and the very hot
water, incident to condensation, thus concluding the first step in my method. The
second step. consists in turning the inverted and smoothly distended hat body right
side out by the free and sufficiently gradual insertion of the block D, as shown in
Figure the pressure of the steam causing the hat body to be laid smoothly and
compactly upon the top and sides of the block, the felt being in the meantime,
so slackened by the slight descent of the brim clamp, as to be absolutely free
from contact with the bottom or edge of the banding shell, as clearly shown in
Figure 8.
Below the edge of the shell, the felt, as shown in Figure 8, forms an annular
pocket which receives the hot water of condensation, thus specially saturating that
portion of the felt which is to be specially worked upon, and by the time the block
has been so far inserted that the band portion of the hat body is encircled by the
banding shell, the second step of my method is concluded.
The third step in my method, as herein before indicated, consists in gradually
felting the band portion of the hat body, which is accomplished by vertically
reciprocating the banding shell, thus affording the " jiggering" movement, which
with the steam and the hot water, secures the desired felting action and causes the
band portion to contract peripherally and to conform to the corresponding surface
of the block. This felting action would be mainly accomplished and concluded
with the brim of the hat body laid at right angles to the side crown, as shown in
Figure 10, but said action would be well underway, while the brim occupied a
previously depressed position, as shown in Figure 9, the brim being at all times free
from such strains as would prevent the desired contraction of the band portion, and
also free to respond to such felting shrinkage as would result from the abundance
of heat and moisture, and the vibratory or tremulous condition to which all
unconfined or unsupported portions of the hat body would be subjected, by the
jiggering movement of the banding ring.
It is now to be understood, that the means thus far described may be variously
organized with operative mechanism without departure from the main feature of
my invention, it being obvious, that if the method described should be practised
by imparting to the banding shell, the brim clamp and the block, their requisite
movements by the personal manipulation of an operator, hats should be well
banded, but having commercial value in view, it is imperative that rapidity in
operation should be provided for, with attendant economic advantages, all of which

page_text: лав Deen caremmily considered by me in devising the organization next to be
described.
The machine which is shown in the drawings has been devised by me for
accomplishing the ends stated, and although it has general resemblances to machines
heretofore used by me, it is radically unlike any of them in many important
features of construction organization, and mode of operation.
The frame of the machine as shown in several figures consists of two side
plates E, E', united by a lateral plate E, centrally located, and another at E,
near the bottom of the machine. The side plates and the lower plate are provided
with appropriate seats for journal boxes, and all of said plates afford seats for
guide bearings in which vertical rods or spindles are reciprocated.
Commencing with the banding shell B, it is as usual composed of metal, oval in
outline, and open at the bottom, but as a novel feature it is provided with an
interior chamber B', see Figure 19, below its neck so perforated laterally as to
secure a favorable distribution of the steam and especially the hot water resulting
from condensation in the valve and pipes.
It will be understood that several different sizes of banding shells are required,
and hence I have now provided each with a neck f, screw threaded internally, and
longitudinally slotted to interrupt the threads to admit of the prompt and free
reception of a hollow stem, Figure 20, which is externally threaded, and
similarly slotted, and provided with handles, and with a flange, thus affording
a lock screw joint by means of which the banding shell may be readily applied to
and detached from a cross head B2, which is provided with a socket to receive the
neck, of the banding shell. When the screw threaded portions of the stem f',
are located opposite to the slotted portions of the neck f, the stem and neck are
free to operate like a tenon and mortise; ie, in a longitudinal line, and when thus
put together, the partial rotation of the stem in the right direction causes the screw
threaded portions to engage with each other in locking and clamping union, not
only with reference to each other, but of both to the cross head, and a reversed
rotative movement of course leaves the stem and shell free to separate.
top of the hollow stem f¹, there is a screw threaded tip e', to which a suitably
flexible pipe e, is coupled, this being connected with an automatically operated
steam valve e³, all as shown in Figure 16, and in part in detail, in Figure 17.
At the
The steam valve e², is rotative, its spindle having thereon a bent arm e, to
which a pendant link e, is attached for coupling it to an appropriate vertically
movable lever in the lower portion of the machine, as will be hereinafter further
described. It is immaterial in what manner this valve may be actuated, provided it
be opened when a hat body has been properly presented to the banding shell, and
closed at the conclusion of the banding operation. To the induction port of this
valve at ea supply steam pipe is coupled.
The cross head B², as shown in Figures 14, 16 and 26, is securely mounted upon
two vertical slidable rods f*,*, provided with guide bearings on the two side
plates, and said cross head is coupled by means of two pitmen ƒ ƒ³, with cranks
or eccentrics on the main shaft F of the machine, said cranks having a throw
which is limited to, say three sixteenths of an inch, so that when said shaft is
properly speeded, it will be driven at say five hundred revolutions per minute, and
impart to said cross head and band shell a corresponding rapid, and vibratory, or
short reciprocatory movement.
In some machines previously used by me the banding shell or each banding shell
when there was more than one was stationary when in service and it was supplied
with steam by means of an automatic valve.
The brim clamp is composed of a base section or member C, and a cap section or
member C, and each contains novel features.
Unlike prior brim clamp bases, in banding machines, the base C, has no auxiliary
banding ring, but has its oval opening broadly bevelled inwardly, as shown at g, in
Figures 22 to 25, this being important for enabling the inner portions of the brim
to be free to respond to vibrations, and to assume different positions, and to enable

page_text: I have also
them to be free from such strains as I have specially sought to avoid.
provided the base section with an adjustable brim gauge, shown in detail in
Figures 22 to 25. This brim gauge is somewhat similar to gauges devised by me
and heretofore employed in machines for other purposes, (brim planing) but it
possesses a peculiar value as now constructed, in combination with the banding
shell, in assuring the proper entrance therein, of the crown of a hat body, and
being adjustable, it is adapted for use with hats of all sizes or widths of brim.
This adjustable gauge consists of a series of gauge contact blocks g', uniform in
construction, and movable in radial slots, and provided with studs g, which occupy
curved tangential slots p³, in a cam plate 9', which is rotative and provided with u.
handle g, so that by turning said cam plate, the gauge blocks are simultaneously
moved outwardly or inwardly upon the brim supporting surface and are set at the
proper points for such contact with the brim of a hat body as will assume its proper
central location on the base of the clamp. As here shown, the blocks g', are
circularly arranged but each block is so adjustable with relation to its stud 9, that
an oval arrangement can be provided for if desired.
The cap section C', differs from the corresponding portion of prior brim clamps.
in blocking machines, in that instead of having a broad annular or oval clamping
face for contact with the entire surface of a brim, it has a pendant flange affording
a narrow annular or oval face g' Figure 15 (covered with felt or with rubber)
which bites upon a correspondingly limited portion of the brim, closely adjacent to
the flaring band portion d, of a hat body, thus avoiding any undue clamping
control of the adjacent interior portions of the felt, as shown in Figures 7 and 15,
and elsewhere.
The two sections of the clamp, at times move independently of each other, and
at other times they move together, this occurring when the base section carries on
it the cap section.
I will first describe the mechanism by which the cap section C¹, is independently
actuated.
The clamp cap C¹, is in the form of a cross head, Figures 15, and 16, and of
such weight as will enable it to properly bear upon a brim and at each end it is
forked, (affording spaces for the pitmen f), and provided with stirrups or angular
plates h, h, to which, links h', h', are coupled for suspending the clamp cap, from
an arm, and a lever ³, on a rock shaft, having bearings on the frame of the
machine. To the opposite end of the lever h³, a pendant link Figure 26 is.
coupled, which in turn at its lower end, is hinged to a lever 4º, composed of two.
parallel arms, loosely mounted upon a fulcrum shaft 17, upon which is another
lever, in part underlying the lever 46, so that an adjusting hand screw ³, passing
through the lever, will bear at its end upon a portion of the lower lever 48.
The coupling of the lever ³, to the link h³, is by means of a movable bearing.
adjustable by means of a screw 10, at the top of the link, and operating as an
abutment for the bearing, which being in a long slot ", provides not only for
holding, lowering, and lifting the cap section C', but it also permits a free upward
movement of the cap section, when it is lifted otherwise than by way of said link.
The screw h¹, enables a variation in the capacity of the link to lift and to lower
the clamp cap section, whenever such changes are desired, as for varying the
point at which said section will co-operate with the clamp base section for clamping
the brim of a hat.
The two levers 16, and 18, although independently fulcrumed on the shaft h',.
always operate as one lever, during the actual working of the machine, but in
matters of adjustment, the lower lever h, can be depressed, or permitted to rise by
the rotation of the hand screw h³.
A counter balance lever and weight 1, projects rearwardly from said levers and
it is directly coupled with the lever, which therefore bears upwardly against the
hand screw, in the lever 4. The lever ³, has a rigid pendant arm carrying a
roller, which is engaged by a cam G, on a cam shaft G', and as said roller can
be vertically adjusted by the hand screw, said levers may be raised by the.cam,

page_text: either to its fullest lifting capacity, or to any desired lesser portion thereof. The
adjustment by way of the hand screw ³, has no special significance in connection
with the movement of the clamp cap section C, by way of the link h³, said adjust-
ment being provided for with special reference to the movement of the clamp base
section C, as will be hereinafter more fully indicated.
The cain shaft G is geared for slow speed to a counter shaft H. Figures 14
and 16 also geared for slow speed to an overlying clutch shaft I, which is driven
by belting from the rapidly driven main shaft F, on which are fast and loose
pulleys at i, a balance wheel . cene pulleys at 2, from which a belt leads to
similar pulleys 23, on the clutch shaft 1. With the main shaft driven at say
five hundred revolutions per minute, and the clutch shaft belted for its fastest speed,
the cam shaft G1 will be rotated once in thirty seconds, this being the usually
...desired time for the machine to make a full round of operations.
The can G, may be properly termed a clamp cam, in that its duty is mainly.in
connection with the brim clamp.
The cam G, not only lifts and at times lowers the cap sections, C¹, as indicated,
but it also performs lifting duty in connection with the base section C, as will be
hereinafter described, and therefore said cam is not only double as to function, but
for purposes of adjustment, it is also double in construction, as clearly indicated in
Figures 11, 12, and 13.
Said cam is composed of two counter part sections, and k¹, side by side; the
section k, is keyed to the cam shaft G', and the section k¹, is loose thereon.
These sections k, and k¹, are adjustably coupled by means of a hand screw k², so
arranged that by turning said screw, the loose section may be so moved that a
resting face at, may be extended, to say twice the length or extent afforded when
the sections register with each other, for reasons which will be hereafter described
in connection with the clamp base C. However these cam sections may be adjusted,
the initial lifting face at 4, will always be the same, because the keyed section k,
performs the sole lifting duty.
The cam face serves as a carrier, and it also performs slight lowering duty,
said face terminating at k, the concentric portion of the cam having no active
function, except that said portion of the movable section k¹, has thereon a laterally
projecting stud, carrying a swivel nut 7, for engagement by the screw, which
latter at its shank, is mounted in a swivelled sleeve on an arm k, which is keyed
to the cam shaft and is parallel with the side of the cam.
Having raised the levers he, and 8, the cam G, although performing a slight
lever lowering duty on the cam face, is wholly relieved from the duty of finally
lowering the clamp cap as will be hereinafter fully indicated. It should here be
observed that the lifting of said levers can never initially lower the clamp cap C',
below the laterally projecting bars ³, on the side frame plates of the machine,
shown in Figures 11 and 16.
In some machines heretofore devised by me the clamp cap section is incapable
of any movement except such as is imparted thereto, or permitted by the base
section, and hence the cap section stands obstructively to the convenient and
proper mounting of a hat body on the base section, when at rest.
The base section C, of the clamp, is mounted upon a cross head C³, Figure 16
having at each end, pendant sleeves l, l, which are loosely occupied by the slidable
rods, before described, these serving as guides for said cross head, as well
as for the bending shell cross head. To each sleeve a wrist pin, is properly
secured as at, and l, said pins being connected by links or pitmen 1, 1, with the
outer sides and near the free end of a bow or loop shaped lever m Figures 14, 18 and 26
counter-weighted at the rear, as at m¹, and fulcrumed upon the shaft or rod h'.
As the lever m, affords the proper time and range of movement, it is relied upon
for automatically operating the steam valve e'. The steam valve link e', is
shown in Figures 11 and 16, and the connection with the lever m, is shown in
Figure 18.
When the clamp base cross head C2, is at its lowest position and at rest, it is

page_text: supported upon two ledges afforded by bars P,, on the side plates of the frame,
as shown in Figures 14, 16, and, 26, and, therefore the lever m, instead of then
supporting the cross head, is itself supported at its free end, by way of the cross
head ledges, and the pitmen P, P.
Motion is imparted to said lever, cross head, and clamp base, by the cam G,
acting through the lever A, which is operatively (but not positively) coupled with
the loop shaped lever m, as follows:
Near said lever he, the lever m, is provided at one side with a laterally projecting
lug n Figure 18 affording a face at its under side, for engagement in lifting
contact by the top of a bent arm n', secured to the free end of said lever h°, and
projecting downwardly and laterally therefrom, as clearly indicated in Figures 11
and 18. It will now be seen that the cam G, will lift the base section C, of the
clamp, and also that the adjusting screw Figure 26 on the lever h, will enable
the cam to vary in the extent of its brim clamp lifting action; and that the cam
adjusting screw Figure 13 enables a variation in the time during which the
clamp is to be maintained in its extreme elevated position by said cam and
determines the time and point at which the brim clamp is taken under control by
the block carrying mechanism, as will be hereinafter explained.
Although the two sections of the clamp, are at times wholly under the control
of the mechanism by which the hat block D is raised and lowered, as hereinbefore
indicated, I will now explain the control of both of the brim clamp sections by the
cam G. With said sections at rest in the positions shown in Figures 11, 14, and 16,
the base section C, is at its lowest position, and the cap section is held wholly out.
of the way of the operator, and at its highest position, as also fairly indicated in
Figure 5. The rotation of the cam G, raises the base section C, and lowers the
cap section C', so as to clamp the brim of a hat body already placed upon the
base section, the clamping action occurring at say the dotted line, Figure' 16;
then said cam, continuing its movement, lifts both sections until they pass the
position indicated in Figure 6, and reach the extreme elevation, indicated in
Figure 8, and then they are slightly lowered to the position indicated in Figure 9,
at which time the cam G, ceases to act, and surrenders the brim clamp as a
whole, to the control of the block carrying mechanism. It should be observed,
that the slotted link connection at the cross head lever of the cap section C',
offers no obstruction to the independent upward movement of said cap section.
Now referring to the hat block D, it is to be understood that it is mounted in a
novel manner upon its spindle D', by means of a main carrier D', Figures 14 and 16
and an auxiliary carrier, consisting in part of a disc p provided with holes for
the reception of dowel pins p', pl which at times project through said holes, and
enter registering holes in the block. Said disk p, is provided with two pendant
rods p, p, which at times, support said disc and the block, said rods occupying
vertical tubular guide bearings p, p, in the main block carrier D, and being at
times free to slide through appropriate holes in the frame plate E, as indicated in
Figure 16 wherein the block with a banded hat thereon, is shown to be still
maintained upon the auxiliary carrier, and on a level with the base section of the
clamp which is in its lowest position, while the main carrier D³, has been fully
lowered.
The block with its auxiliary carrier is thus supported by its rods resting end wise
upon two pivoted horizontal bars p', ', which are parallel, and coupled together,
and provided with a spring which normally causes both bars to underlie the paths
of the rods p, p, and one of the bars extends beyond the front of the machine and
serves as a handle p', as indicated in Figure 21. Upon moving these bars laterally,
the auxiliary carrier will drop to the main carrier; this is done, after the block
with a banded hat has been removed, the carrier as a whole, then being ready to
receive another block. Banding machines as heretofore organized, have had no.
auxiliary carrier, and hence while the block with its hat is descending, the operator
must be at hand, and skilfully seize the block, and keep it from being dropped
through and below the brim clamp, with more or less attendant derangement and
B

page_text: injury to the hat. With my auxiliary carrier, the bars p, p, spring into their
supporting positions as soon as the rods leave their holes in the frame plate, during
the upward movement, and therefore when the main carrier descends, the
auxiliary carrier remains in the desired elevated position, so that the operator,
being free to remove the hat at will, can attend two or more blocking machines,
or one blocking machine, and also appropriate adjacent stretching machines.
The block spindle D¹, has guide bearings in the lateral frame plates E, and E',
and it is provided with a cross head q, above its lower guide bearing as shown in
Figures 14, 18 and 26. This cross head has two lateral wrist pins, with which a
short bow shaped pitman q', is connected, said pitman being also provided with
two lateral wrist pins by which the pitman is connected with the free end of a
lever, which is fulcrumed upon the shaft or rod h', before described. The
lever, has two parallel arms, connected by a sleeved hub at the fulcrum shaft
and by a lateral brace near the free end, as shown in Figure 18.
The lever g, is also provided with a lateral shaft, carrying a roller, centrally
located, and overlying the face of a large cam K, on the cam shaft G¹. This
cam K, has a lifting face r, a lowering face r, and a concentric resting or carrying
face, this latter operating for nearly two-thirds of the revolution of the cam, as
clearly shown in Figure 13, in dotted lines, in connection with the cam G.
It will now be understood, that during the final lifting action by the face r, of
this cam K, the latter wholly relieves the cain G, from duty, and that during the
movement of the resting or carrying face, of the cam K, the latter carries the
weight of the block and spindle and bath clamp sections, and that the lowering
face, of the said cam lowers the clamp base to its position of rest, leaves the
block at the same level, lowers the main block carrier to its resting position, and
elevates the clamp cap section to its highest position.
The main shaft F, is continuously operated, except when the driving belt is thrown
from the fast to the loose pulley; the clutch shaft I, is also continuously driven,
the cam shaft G, being only operated when the spring actuated clutch I',
Figures 11 and 21 has been set for service.
The starting, and the automatic stopping mechanism, is the same
as that
heretofore used in prior hatting machines devised by me, and is illustrated in
Figure 21.
When the machine is at rest, a stop pins Figure 16, on the block carrier D²,
depresses the hand lever & Figures 16 and 21 which in turn, so holds a rock shaft
or shipper lever s, as to maintain the clutch faces in a separated condition. When
said hand lever has been moved laterally from beneath the stop pin, said lever is
free to rise, and so frees the rock shaft, as to permit the clutch spring s³ to act in
closing the clutch and starting the cam shaft. The hand lever, being actuated by
a spring, resumes its normal position, so that when the block carrier next descends,
the stop pin depresses the hand lever, and opens the clutch, thus restricting each
movement of the cam shaft to one rotation.
Having indicated separately the movements of the several parts of the
machine, it will be readily understood that each round of operation will be as
follows:
With the machine at rest, as indicated in Figures 11, 14 and 16, a hot wet hat
body A2, is placed upright and accurately adjusted upon the base of the brim
clamp, and the clutch lever then shifted; the clamp base carrying the hat then
rises, until it is met by the descending cap section of the clamp which rests upon
the base and clamps the brim adjacent to the band portion only; the two clamp
sections continue rising together, and insert the crown of the hat into the
reciprocating banding shell; steam is then admitted to the shell, and as the hat
body is lifted, it is inverted by the steam until fully distended, inside out, the
brim clamp then being considerably above the edge of the shell.
The hat block in the meantime rises, and by engaging with the hat body at the
tip, commences to turn the hat body right side out within the shell, the pressure
of the steam compacting and laying the tip and side crown smoothly upon the

page_text: block, the brim clamp in the meantime moving downwardly, as rapidly as the
block moves upwardly, and keeping the felt free from straining over the edge of
the shell; the clamp then meets and rests upon the flange of the block carrier,
which, in its terminal upward movement, carries the brim clamp with it; the
banding shell operating with "jiggering" movement, and the hat body being
permeated with steam and with the very hot water of condensation, contracts the
band portion of the hat body by felting action, which is concluded, with the brim
clamp substantially in line with the edge or bottom of the shell, and without
straining the felt which at all times has been left free to respond to the con-
tractions and changes of form secured by the felting action. This is usually
accomplished in say twenty seconds, whereupon the bluck descends, steam is cut
off, the clamp cap section moves downwardly with the block a short distance, is
then left behind and then rises to its full height, the clamp base section is left at
its lowest position the hat and block are left on a level with the clamp base by
the auxiliary block carrier, and the main carrier descends to its lowest position,
and rests. The operator then removes the block and hat, and preparatory to
another operation, he permits the auxiliary carrier to drop and places another
block thereon.
It will be observed, notwithstanding the many niceties involved in the co-opera-
tive action of the brim clamp sections with each other, and with the banding
shell and with the hat block carrier, that the mechanism is exceedingly simple
and effective, and it will be obvious that variations therein in the direction of
complexity should involve no departure from the mechanical features of my
invention.
As to the method which constitutes the main feature of my invention, it will be
obvious that no departure therefrom will be involved in variations in mechanical
organizations which have for their sole object the performance of the several steps
of my novel method in a safe, rapid, economical, and commercially valuable
manner.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
:-
1st. The method of blocking and banding felt hats, substantially as herein-
before described, the same consisting in distending the inverted crown of a
previously stretched hat body by steam pressure, and perineating it with hot
water incident to condensation of the steam in direct contact with the felt, then
while so distended and permeated, turning the crown of the hat body right side
out, and perinitting the steam under suitable pressure, to compactly and smoothly
lay the felt upon the top and sides of a suitable support; and then, while the hat
body is on said support and properly clamped at its brim, and still permeated by
hot water and steam, gradually felting the normally large and flaring band portion
of the hat body and by said felting action, diametrically contracting said band
portion into form, and to dimensions appropriate to the side crown, and in
substantial conformity with the band surface of the support or block.
2nd. In a hat blocking or banding machine, the combination, substantially as
herein before described, of a rapidly reciprocated or "jiggering" banding shell,
provided with means for intermittingly supplying steam to its interior, a brim
clamp, composed of a base and a cap section, both of which are independently
moved toward and from each other, and which are also moved together while
doing clamping duty, and clamp operating mechanism for imparting said move-
ments; a vertically reciprocated hat block carrier, which when adjacent to the
banding shell, supports the brim clamp, and during its downward movements,
carries at first both sections of said brim clamp, then leaves the cap section to the
custody of its own operating mechanism, and then leaves the base section of the
clamp at its position of rest.
3rd. In a hat blocking or banding machine, a brim clamp, composed of a base

page_text: section, and a normally suspended cap section, in combination with coupled levers,
coupled respectively by separate. links to appropriate clamp sections, and a cam
which lifts said levers, and thereby simultaneously lifts, the base section and lowers
the cap section, substantially, as described.
4th. In:a. hat blocking or banding machine, the combination of afbrim clamp
composed of a base section, and a..normally suspended cap section; a clamp cam,
operating through coupled .levers coupled respectively to appropriate clamp sections
for lifting the base, lowering the cap, and placing them in clamping relations; a
hat block carrier below said base section and mounted on a vertical spindle, a lever
coupled to said spindle, and a cam which engages with said spindle lever, lifts, said
block carrier, and enables it to lift and to carry both sections of the brim clamp,
independently of the clamp cam, substantially, as described.
5th: In a hat blocking or banding machine, the combination of a. brim clamp
consisting of a base section, and a cap section; a double cam composed of parts
adjustable with reference to each other, and intermediate mechanism, by which said
cam is enabled to impart separate movements to both of said clamp sections, to
move both together when doing clamping duty, and to vary the time at which
the clamp as a whole is maintained at its highest position, substantially as
described.
6th. In a hat,blocking or banding machine, a brim.clamp, having a base section,
and a cap section which is suspended from, a lever, in combination with a car, a
lever lifted by said cam, and a link, which is,hinged to said cam actuated lever, and
is.coupled to said suspending lever by a slotted connection, substantially as described,
whereby said cap section is normally held in its highest position, for affording free
access to the base section, and when lowered, is free to be lifted independently of
the action of said cam and link.
7th. In a hat blocking or banding machine, a cap section of its brim clamp
suspended from levers; a longitudinally slotted link coupled to one of said, levers,
by a sliding joint; an adjusting screw which overlies said joint, and practically
lessens the length of said slot, in combination with cam actuated mechanism for
reciprocating said link, substantially as described, whereby the control of the clamp
cap by said link may be varied.
8th. In a hat blocking or banding machine, the combination with a reciprocating
banding shell and, a brim clamp, base section, of a cap section provided with a
pendant flange affording narrow annular biting face, which restricts the clamping
action upon a hat body to that portion of the brim which is remote from the edge
and is adjacent to the flaring or band portion, substantially as described.
9th. In a bat blocking or banding machine, the combination with an, annular
banding device, of a brin clamp composed of a cap section, and a base. section
which has a brim supporting surface and is provided on its face with a series of
radially movable brim edge gauging contact blocks, and a rotative cam plate for
simultaneously adjusting said blocks, and enabling them by contact with, the edges
of the brims of hat bodies of various sizes, to properly gauge each hat body, for
entering its crown within the banding device, substantially as described.
10th. In a hat blocking or, banding machine, a brim clamp base, having the
usual opening for the reception of a hat block, inwardly, and downwardly bevelled
at its edge, in combination with a clamp cap section having a pendant clamping
face which bears upon the face of the base section, outside of said bevelled edges,
substantially as described, whereby the band portion of a hat body and the adjacent
portion of the brim are left free to assume various positions incident to the banding
operation.
11th. In a hat blocking or banding machine, the combination with a cross.head,
of a banding shell provided with a neck having a longitudinally slotted screw
thread, and a stem provided with a correspondingly threaded and slotted neck
adapted to couple with the neck of the shell, substantially as described, whereby.
the banding shell may be promptly applied to, and removed from, said stem,.,and
cross head.

page_text: 12th. In a hat blocking or banding machine, the combination, substantially as
herein before described, of a banding shell, a cross head carrying said shell,
mechanism for rapidly reciprocating said cross head and shell, and a suitable steam
pipe, communicating with the interior of the shell for supplying steam thereto
while being reciprocated.
13th. The combination with a hat banding shell, of an interior steam chamber,
laterally perforated, substantially as described, for securing a favorable distribution
of the water incident to condensation upon the particular portions of a hat body to
be operated upon by the banding shell.
14th. In a hat blocking or banding machine, the combination, substantially as
hereinbefore described, of a brim clamp provided with supports on which its base
rests when not in service, a main hat block carrier independent of the brim clamp,
mounted on a vertically slidable spindle, and an auxiliary block carrier, carrica
upon the main carrier but vertically movable independently thereof, and means for
temporarily supporting said auxiliary carrier, independently of the main carrier,
whereby when the main, and the auxiliary carriers descend with a block having a
banded hat thereon, the main carrier will descend to its lowest position, and leave
the auxiliary carrier on a level with the brim clamp, with the block and hat
convenient for removal.
15th. The combination with a hat block carrier and its reciprocating supporting
spindle, of an auxiliary block carrier, carried by the main carrier, but vertically
separable therefrom and provided with pendant rods, and spring actuated bars
which normally underlie said rods, for supporting the auxiliary carrier independently
of the main carrier when the latter is fully depressed, and which by being moved
aside permit the auxiliary carrier to drop to the main carrier, substantially as
described.
Dated this 27th der of May 1805
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
45 Southampton Buildings, London, W.C., Agents for the Applicant.