Improvements in Buttonhole Sewing Machines.
Year: 1899

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Buttonhole Sewing Machines.
I, WILLIAM MANNING HOUSE, of 153, West 29th Street, in the Borough of
Manhattan, City, County, and State of New York, United States of America,
Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement:-
My invention relates to a buttonhole sewing machine and has for its object
to produce an automatic mechanism by which a buttonhole may be sewed having
rows of side and barring stitches the latter at substantially a right angle to the
former, across the ends of the buttonhole slit.
I will describe a buttonhole machine embodying my improvement, and then
point out the novel features in claims:
In the accompanying drawings Fig. 1 is a side elevation of a machine embodying
my improvement, a portion of the base being broken away to economize space.
Fig. 2 is an end elevation, a cover for certain parts of the needle operating
mechanism being removed and the base being broken away to economize space.
Fig. 3 is a plan or top view of certain parts and a horizontal section of others,
taken on line 3-3 of Fig. 1.
Fig. 4 is a horizontal section taken partly in a plane indicated by line 4-4
of Fig. 1. and partly in a slightly higher plane
Fig. 5 is a vertical section in a plane indicated by line 5-5, Fig. 1.
Fig. 6 is a vertical section in a plane indicated by line 6-6. Fig 3
Fig. 7 is a diagram illustrating the position of side stitches and barring stitches
in a buttonhole produced by the machine. It is not, however, intended to indicate
the character of the stitchings.
Fig. 8 is an inverted plan of the machine.
Fig. 9 is a vertical section taken in a plane of the line 9-9, Fig. 8, but with
some of the parts in positions different from those they occupy in Fig. 8.
Fig. 10 is a vertical section taken partly in different planes, the planes being
indicated by line 10-10, Figs. 8 and Fig. 3.
Fig. 11 is an inverted plan showing cams for imparting certain movements
to the work carrier or cloth clamp during the formation of barring stitches:
Fig. 12 is an inverted plan on a somewhat enlarged scale, illustrating a double
pawl mechanism.
Fig. 13 is an inverted plan of certain cam mechanisms for operating the
double pawl mechanism, just referred to and another pawl mechanism which
serves to rotate the cams which are more particularly shown in Fig. 11.
Fig. 14 is an inverted plan illustrating a modification of one of the cams shown

page_text: in Fig. 11 for the purpose of making a somewhat different disposition of the
barring stitches.
Fig. 15 is a diagram of the character of the diagram, Fig. 7, but showing a
different disposition of barring stitches resulting from the modified construction
illustrated by Fig. 14.
The
Fig. 16 is an inverted plan illustrating a modification of the cam-follower
which is used in connection with one of the cams shown in Figs. 11 and 14.
Fig. 17 is a section on the plane of the line 17-17, Fig. 16.
Similar letters of reference designate corresponding parts in all the figures.
A designates a sewing machine head, A¹ a base plate and A2 a horizontal arm.
A³ designates a needle bar reciprocated vertically in the usual manner.
frame a in which the bar A³ is mounted is pivoted on studs a² a². A5 designates
a well known form of cloth clamp, the arm 8 of which is attached to a plate a³
hinged to an upright portion of a part attached to the work feed mechanism.
A10 designates the shuttle mechanism and A" a pitman for operating the same.
Immediately below the base plate of the machine is a plate H having at its
front and rear edges gibs H3 secured thereto by suitable means as screws h³,
which gibs support a plate H. These plates will be more fully described here-
after as during the formation of the side stitches they are dormant and are
referred to now as the plate H supports certain of the parts which impart a
lengthwise feed to the work carrier plate during the formation of side stitches.
The plate His preferably of the construction shown and has cast therewith
so as to form one integral piece, a tubular hub H2 and vertical extensions h¹².
all of which extend through suitable slots out into the base plate A¹ and are
for the purposes hereafter described.
F designates a shaft rotated by suitable gearing, in a manner well known,
from the main driving shaft B. The shaft F carries at its lower end a cam F1
upon which rests the forked ends of a lever F3 fulcrumed on a stud f³ fixed to
the base plate of the machine. G₁ designates a pawl-carrying lever fulcrumed
on the hub L¹ of a ratchet wheel L and receiving motion from the lever F³
through a connecting link G, the ends of said levers F³ and G¹ being slotted.
as shown, to admit of the adjustment of the link G by means of set screws g
and g, to vary the throw of the lever G. The lever G¹ carries two spring pressed
pawls, only one of which 63 will be referred to at present, said pawl engaging
the teeth of ratchet wheel L, the hub L' of which is mounted on a boss or pro-
jection H of the plate H¹. Secured to and projecting downward from ratchet
wheel L is a pin L which passes between and engages fingers m of a plate M5
secured by suitable means, as screws me, to a gear wheel or pinion M². This
pinion is supported by its hub in a suitable bracket 3 fastened to the plate H¹
by means of screws m. A cap screw M takes into the hub of pinion M² to
hold the latter in position, a friction washer m being interposed between the
said cap screw and bracket. The pinion M2 engages a pinion M whose hub M
is secured by a pin m or screws, to a shaft J¹ which shaft extends upward through
the tubular hub H of the plate H¹ and carries at its upper end a feed disk J
made in the form of a toothed gear wheel or pinion, either cast with said shaft
or separate and fastened thereto by suitable means. The pinion J is provided
with a diametrical T-shaped slot J which receives the head of a screw bolt j
and over this bolt the end of a pitman J2 is passed being clamped in position
by a cap J engaging the screw threads of bolt . said cap, if preferred, having a
handle J to manually operate the pinion J. The pitman J2 may be adjusted
radially of the pinion J in the slot J to produce a greater or less traverse of the
work carrier, according to the length of buttonhole to be sewed.
The plate H, as before described, is provided at one end with the two vertical
pieces which extend upward through a slot A¹³ cut into the base plate.
the upper edges of said pieces being preferably flush with the upper surface of
the bed plate. Into the guide way He thus formed is a slide block K.to which
is secured the other end of pitman J2 by means of a screw J, the ends of the

page_text: pitman Je forming a bearing for the said screw. The slide block K preferably
extends a slight distance above the sides ' ' of the guide way H, and is cut
to form a seat for the plate N which is secured to said block by a screw N. 1
have shown the plate N as resting at one end upon a bearing piece N and held
from vertical displacement by a cap N secured by screws to the base plate
although neither of these features is essential. The plate N has secured thereto
by screws an extension N2 to which is attached by screw the cloth carrier
plate a.
This latter plate may be slotted at its ends as shown at all to provide
for lateral adjustment. The plates N and N2 instead of being in two pieces may
be made as one.
Secured to the shaft B by suitable means is a bevel gear B₁ which engages
the gear wheel B mounted on a stud 2 secured to a bracket on the arm A².
The wheel B has made integral therewith, or separate and attached thereto by
suitable means, a disk or plate 13 having therein a cam groove b3 (Figs. 1 and 4)
engaged by a roller 68 on a pin whien pin is fastened to a lever B fulcrumed
on a stud or shaft which extends through the arm A,
B designates a plate or cover secured by screws b to the arm A2 and this
A
plate is cut away, as shown, at 6 to provide a clearance for the pin 67.
link is connected to the free end of lever 13 and to a bracket or extension d'
of a rock lever ) which latter is fulcrumed at its center on a stud C2 (Figs. 4
and 5) which stud has a bearing on a plate fastened by screws to the
plate B. The plate may, if desired, be cast integral with plate B. The
lever ) is made with side pieces, as shown, so as to form a longitudinal grooved,
and slidably supported therein is a block D¹ provided with a boss or projection D6
on which are mounted the end of a pitman D and one end of a link D², a cap
screw engaging the boss D to keep the said pitman and link from being
displaced. A guard plate do, secured to the plate 15 by means of screws d may
also be employed to prevent the pitman D from springing out of position. The
bracket is slotted as shown at d to permit of the adjustment of link C to vary
the amplitude of the vibration of the needle.
The pitman D at its forward end has a bearing on a stud a set eccentrically
on a disk provided with a shank at which is set into an opening in the needle
bar frame a and is held rigidly thereto by means of screws a¹. By adjusting
the position of shank, and consequently the stud a³, the pitman D may be
adjusted to compensate for any change of position of the cutter blade.
To suspend the vibration of the needle bar when barring stitches are to be
formed, and to determine the position of the end of pitman D during the sewing
of side and barring stitches, 1 pivot on the boss D of slide block D¹ a link 12
which link has secured thereto at its lower end by a screw, an arm Di which
has vertical movement in a suitable guideway 18 formed preferably by plates do 10
fastened to a bracket which bracket is secured to the base plate. E designates
a lever fulcrumed at one end on a stud E¹ set into a bracket E2 fastened by
screws e to a plate Lo, said plate being secured by screws e2 to the top of hub H2
of plate H. The other end of lever E is slotted at e¹ and is secured by means
of set screw D to the vertically movable arm 17, the slot el providing a clearance
for screw 9 during the barring operation. E³ designates a cam follower secured
to lever E by screws which follower rests upon the cam I now to be described.
The pinion J, as before described, is secured to the upper end of shaft J¹.
This shaft passes through the opening in the plate L as indicated by dotted lines
in Fig. 9. Engaging the pinion J is a pinion I mounted on a stud 18 secured
to the plate L. The said pinion carries on its upper face a three-step cam I' having
the cam surfaces 12 1 I I. A cap screw I taking into the stud 18, and
a washer 1 interposed between the head of said screw and said cam, holds the
The cam I' is
cam and pinion in frictional engagement with the plate Lº.
slotted, as shown, at to permit of its adjustment on pinion I, and set
screws taking into openings in the face of said pinion hold the cam I¹ in
position on the pinion.
In Figs. 1, 3, 4, and 5 the parts are shown in position at the beginning of a

page_text: row of side stitches with the point of connection between pitman D and rock
lever above the fulcrum of the latter, so that upon rotation of shaft Ba
vibratory movement is given the needle bar as before explained. During the
sewing of the first row of side stitches the cam 1' is so adjusted that the face I³
supports the follower and consequently the arms D', links D, slide block 1¹
and pitman D in the positions shown until said row of side stitches has been
completed, at which time the follower falls from the face 12 and rests upon
the face, the face 12 passing from under the said follower on the movement
of the feed wheel in forming the last of the side stitches. The vertical dis-
tance from the face 12 to face 1, is such that the fall of follower Elowers
lever E and consequently the end of pitman D on slide block until said end
is in a position comcident with the fulcrum C of rock lever D, and hence no
movement whatever is imparted to pitman D to vibrate the needle bar. As
rotation of pinion J is also suspended during the formation of barring stitches,
as will be fully described, rotation of pinion I and cam l' ceases at the same time
and the end of pitman D remains as above stated until the end of the barring
operation, when by the advancement of ratchet wheel L one or two teeth at the
beginning of its movement to form the second row of side stitches the pinion I
is rotated to carry the face 13 from under the follower and to permit said
follower to fall to the face I over which it travels during the formation of the
second row of side stitches. The vertical distance between the faces 13 and 1+
is equal to the vertical distance so that when the follower E³ passes the face 14
the end of pitman I) is brought below the fulcrum C2 of rock lever D a distance
equal to that at which it was above, during the formation of the first row of
side stitches, if the two rows are to be of the same width as is the usual practice,
and hence to a position that the said pitman will be reciprocated to give a
vibratory movement to the needle bar in the same manner as heretofore described
with reference to the first row of side stitches. When the follower is brought
to the end of face I it will be raised by the inclined face during the movement
of ratchet wheel L in the formation of the last of the side stitches, so as to rest
on the face 15 during the formation of the second set of barring stitches. This
movement again brings the end of pitman D to a position coincident with the
fulcrum C and suspends the vibration of the needle bar in the same manner
as before described with reference to the first set of barring stitches.
end of the second barring operation the follower E3 is raised by the inclined
face to the face 12 in position to begin the sewing of a row of side stitches on
another buttonhole.
At the
I have shown a spring 110 secured at one end to the arm D and at its other
end to the base plate or to the bracket ", to hold the follower E in positive
engagement with the different faces of cam I'. I do not wish to be understood
as limiting myself to the precise construction of cam shown to effect the adjust-
ments of the end of pitman 14 with respect to the fulcrum of rock lever D) as
any form of cam to produce this effect is within my invention.
L² designates a plate located below the ratchet wheel L. It has a bearing on
the reduced end L of hub H and is held thereon by a cap screw H³ taking into
said hub, a washer being interposed between the head of the cap screw
and end of the hub. The plate L2 does not bear against ratchet wheel L but is
interlocked therewith by means of pin L' extending through a slot 7 in plate L²,
said pin in addition to giving motion to plate M, as heretofore described, is
brought into engagement with an end wall of slot to rotate the plate L2 at a
predetermined period. The plate L is provided with a ratchet segment or rim L5
which extends over the periphery of ratchet wheel L and when carried into opera-
tive position by rotation of wheel L is positively actuated by the pawls G2 and G
on the lever G, the length of segment L being substantially equal to the total
length of the row of barring stitches, although it may be greater as one or two
side stitches may be made after the pawl G2 engages the segment L, as pawl G3
being behind pawl G2 the plate L2 is advanced one or two teeth before the former

page_text: is carried out of engagement with ratchet wheel L. At the beginning of a row
of side stitches the plate L remains stationary by reason of its irictional engage-
ment with hub H, and until the pin L, in traveling to the right through
the slot, is brought into contact with the right hand end wall of said slot,
when continued rotation of ratchet wheel L carries with it the plate L. 1
designates an adjustable stop piece, which may be secured to the plate L over
the slot to adjust the length of the latter, so as to cause the plate L to be
brought into position at the proper time.
of
When the end of a row of side stitches has been reached the plate L will have
been carried into such position, that the pawl G2 which is in advance of the
pawl G, acts upon the segment L to feed it forward thereby causing the pawl G³.
which is of a width equal to the thickness of the wheel L and plate L to ride
over the shoulder of plate L2 and out of engagement with the teeth of wheel L,
and into engagement with the teeth L of segment L. Although the lever G
continues to oscillate, no motion is imparted to ratchet wheel Land of course
there will be no lengthwise feed of the work carrier plate a The pawls G2
and G feed the ratchet segment plate L2 during the formation of the
barring stitches the last one or two teeth being advanced by the pawl until
the latter falls therefrom and is caused by its spring to engage the teeth of
wheel L, the latter being first advanced one or two teeth to move the face
cam I' from beneath the follower E when the parts will be in position to begin
the sewing of the second row of side stitches. During the described. movement
of plate the slot therein, is moved to the right and as wheel L and pin- L
remain stationary the said pin will be at the left hand end of said slot when the
barring operation is completed, although not necessarily abutting against the
left hand end wall, the only essential being that when the wheel L is fed to
form side stitches the pin L shall be brought into contact with the right hand
end wall of slot to begin the movement of plate L2 to bring the ratchet seg-
ment 1 into position to throw pawl Gout of engagement
wheel L at the end of the side stitches. During the time that
pawl G is out of engagement with teeth L³, it is held away from plate L²
and in a plane to engage said teeth at the proper time by a shank g abutting
against a post, and of course then performs no work.
with
To the plate H1 secure two blocks H which extend upward through slots and
are flush with the upper surface of the base plate. To each of these blocks I fasten
by means of screws a slide plate H* which rests upon the base plate and pro-
vides a suitable bearing support for the plate H.
Rigidly secured to the base plate A is a stud P having a shoulder P which
bears against the underside of said plate, the plates H and 1 being cut away
sufficiently to provide a clearance for the movement of said plates. On the
stud PI mount two cams Q and R so as to rotate freely thereon, the said cams
being secured together by suitable means as screws r.
Mounted on the same
stud P is the ratchet wheel S2 secured by pins st to the cam R so that by rotation
of the said ratchet wheel a rotary movement is imparted to the cams Q and R.
S designates a pawl-carrying arm fulcrumed on the hub of this ratchet wheel S
and to said armi is secured, by means of a screws, a pawl S¹ held in positive con-
tact with the ratchet wheel S by a spring. S designates a clamp nut screwed
onto the end of the stud P and interposed between said nut and the ratchet
wheel S are friction washers s¹.
To give the desired vibratory movement to the plate H lengthwise of the
buttonhole and hence to the work carrier plate a during the formation of barring
stitches, I may make the cam surface Q of the form shown in Fig. 11, that
is, with regular recurring elevated and depressed surfaces q q³ respectively.
Rigidly secured to the plate H is a stud Q having a shoulder q bearing against
the undersurface of said plate, said stud having at its end a roller q' the whole
constituting a follower which bears against the cam Q and is moved by the rotation
thereof.

page_text: To feed the work carrier plate a transversely to the length of a buttonhole
the cam is made of the desired shape, for example that shown in Fig. 11, and
to the plate HI secure by suitable means, such as screws, a follower R¹ which
bears against the cam R and is held in positive contact therewith by springs Hs
each secured at the end 8 to the base plate and at the end to the plate H¹.
The pawl carrier arm S is oscillated so as to impart an intermittent feed to
the ratchet wheel S by means of a lever O secured thereto by means of a screw Û³,
said lever deriving its motion from the lever F, to the slotted end f" of which
it is secured by a set screw O. The slot f of lever Ft permits the adjustment
of lever. O to vary the extent of feed of ratchet wheel S2 and hence the closeness
of the barring stitches.
The operation of the mechanism just described is readily understood. By the
oscillation of pawl-carrying arm S by lever O, the ratchet wheel S is caused
to rotate the cams Q and R. As the hrst face q is forced against the follower Q'
the plate His moved forward in a direction parallel with the buttonhole, and
as the follower clears the face g the spring H", secured at its end to the base
plate and at its end to the slide plate 1*, retracts the plate H and moves it
in a direction opposite to its first movement, the follower Q' dropping into contact
with the face g. These alternate forward and back movements of plate H in a
direction lengthwise of the buttonhole continue during the rotation of cam Q
and are communicated to plate H' held to plate H by the gibs H3 and H³, and by
the plate H through its hub H² to pinion J, pitman J and slide block K to
plate N to which the work holder is attached.
Simultaneously with the above described vibratory movement of the work holder
it is given a feed motion transversely to the length of the buttonbole by means
of the cam R contacting with follower R¹ secured to plate H', it being evident
that as said cam rotates, the plate H will be moved against the resistance of
springs H in a direction controlled by the cam surface, and that the feed move-
ment of said plate will be communicated to the work holder through the same
parts of the machine as referred to in speaking of the cam Q. The form of
cam R, shown in Fig. 8, is designed to give a uniform feed to the work holder
during the barring operation and it is so constructed and adjusted with reference
to the other parts of the mechanism that the plate H is fed so as to form barring
stitches first from the center of the buttonhole slit or from a line in continuation
thereof if the side stitches have been carried beyond the end of the buttonhole,
to one side thereof, then back across the buttonhole an equal distance on the other
side thereof and finally back to the starting point.
To vary the extent of vibratory movement of plate H and hence the bight of
the barring stitches without changing the cam Q, I provide an adjustable stop U
fixed to the base plate and adapted to bear against the edge of plate H or gib H³.
By adjusting the stop U, the plate H when retracted by spring H2 and hence
cam will have its backward movement limited by said stop so that the
follower Q will not rest against the face 3 of cam Q. By thus limiting the
throw of plate H the bight of the barring stitches may be varied at pleasure.
It is to be understood that during the formation of the side stitches the
mechanism just described for giving to the work holder a vibratory movement
lengthwise of, and a feed movement transverse to, the buttonhole, remains dormant
or inactive. For this purpose the periphery of the ratchet wheel S2 is provided
with a blank or plane surface 2 for at least the distance of one tooth and the
said wheel is so timed with reference to the mechanism for forming the side a
stitches that it is brought opposite the pawl S at the end of the barring operation,
so that while the lever O continues to reciprocate no motion is imparted to
wheel S and hence none to the plates H and H¹.
To bring the ratchet wheel S2 into position so that it may be fed by means of
pawl S at the end of a row of side stitches, I advance the said wheel by means
of a finger T, slotted at t¹, so as to be movable in the supporting screws
t

page_text: which screws hold the finger in position on the block or bracket T secured to
the plate H. The finger T has loosely pivoted thereto at 13 a pawl T2 hold
normally in contact with ratchet wheel $2 by means of a spring
Secured to the plate L, is a trip piece L³, so adjusted on said plate that it
is brought into contact with the end t of finger T to move the latter and the
pawl T during the sewing of the last of the side stitches, so that the ratchet
wheel $2 is advanced to bring the pawl S into contact with the teeth of said
wheel at the end of a row of side stitches and when barring stitches are to be
formed the ratchet wheel S2 then rotates the cams Q and R in the manner described
during the formation of barring stitches and until the blank or plain face is
brought opposite the pawl S'. Of course the continued rotation of plate L2 during
the barring operation, carries the trip piece L³ out of contact with the end of
finger T and when this occurs the spring 1 retracts the said finger and brings it
into position to be again acted upon by the trip L3 at the proper time. The
trip L is carried around by plate L³ in the movement of the latter as heretofore
described.
The several parts of the mechanism just described are so adjusted that during
the formation of the barring stitches the pawl G³ remains in engagement with
the segment L5 of the plate L² until at or about the time the blank or plain
face of ratchet wheel S is brought opposite the pawl S so that the progressive
feed movement of the work carrier plate does not begin until motion of ratchet
wheel S2 is suspended. The ratchet wheel L and pinion M2 make two complete
rotations, and the pinions M, J and I one complete rotation for each buttonhole.
In Figs. 16 and 17 I have illustrated a preferred form of the cam follower for
adjusting the length of each row of barring stitches. The cams R and Q and cam
follower Q here shown are of the same construction illustrated in Figs. 8 and 11.
In order, however, that the length of the row of barring stitches may be varied,
the cam follower R¹ is secured to a lever R³ fulcrumed on a stud R2 secured to
the base plate A¹, the plates H and H being cut sufficiently to provide a clearance
for the movements of said plates. The lever R³ is slotted longitudinally at 1
and the plate H at 10 and into these slots projects a pin R having a collar
which supports the pin between the plate H' and lever R³. The pin R+ has its
upper end threaded to receive a nut 2 which serves to clamp the said pin securely
to the lever R³. By adjusting the position of the pin R+ toward or from the outer
end of slot the plate H is given a greater or less throw by the cam R and any
desired length may be given to the row of barring stitches.
In Fig. 7 I have illustrated the position of the side and barring stitches in
a buttonhole produced by the machine heretofore described.
In Fig. 14 I have illustrated a modification of the cam Q for the purpose of
differently disposing the barring stitches. Instead of arranging the projec-
tions and recesses 3 symmetrically on the cam Q I make the recess 4, that is,
the recess in which the follower Q' rests during the formation of the side stitches,
one-half the depth of the recesses ³. By such construction, when rotation of
cam Q brings the first face 2 that one immediately to the left of follower Q¹
of Fig. 14, into contact with said follower, the work carrier plate is moved only
one half the distance of the length of a stitch or from the point 2 to
Fig. 15.
The next movement of the work carrier plate is the full depth of the recess
which is twice that of the recess q' and of course carries the stitch for the point 3
to the point 4 and this continues until the starting surface q is reached when the
last stitch is of the same length as the first. Thus, by the construction shown in
Fig. 14, both rows if barring stitches are made to overlap the side stitches, which
lie in proximity to the ends of the buttonhole. as shown in Fig. 15.
I do not limit myself to the precise details of construction illustrated and
described for effecting the described movements of the several parts of the machine
to sew a buttonhole For example the cam Q may be made in the usual form of
a grooved cam and with a suitable follower will impart to the plate H a positive
movement in both directions. This will obviate the use of spring H9 for the

page_text: purpose described. The cams R and I may be similarly constructed to give
positive movements in both directions to the plate H and lever E, respectively.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is —
1. In a buttonhole machine, the combination with sewing mechanism and a
work carrier, of means for producing a feed of said carrier lengthwise of a button-
hole also for producing a relative vibratory movement between the needle and
work carrier transversely to the length of a buttonhole for the formation of side
stitches also for producing a feed of said carrier transversely to the length of
a buttonhole first to one side of the buttonhole then across the end of the button-
hole to the other side thereof and finally back to the starting point, and also
for producing a relative vibratory movement between the needle and work-
carrier lengthwise of a buttonhole for the formation of barring stitches, whereby
a buttonhole having two rows of side stitches and barring stitches disposed at
approximately right angles to the side stitches will be produced automatically,
substantially as specified.
2. In a buttonhole machine, the combination with sewing mechanism and a
work-carrier, of means for producing a feed of said carrier lengthwise of a button-
hole; also for producing a relative vibratory movement between the needle and
work-carrier transversely to the length of a buttonhole for the formation of side
stitches also for producing a feed of said carrier transversely to the length of
a buttonhole first to one side of the buttonhole then across the end of the button-
hole to the other side thereof and finally back to the starting point, and also
for producing a relative vibratory movement between the needle and work
carrier lengthwise of a buttonhole for the formation of barring stitches, and
means to vary the extent of said movements, whereby a buttonhole having two
rows of side stitches and barring stitches disposed at approximately right angles
to the side stitches will be produced automatically, substantially as specified.
In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with sewing mechanism
and a work carrier, of a ratchet wheel for imparting to said carrier a progressive
feed motion lengthwise of a buttonhole, an actuating pawl for said wheel,
mechanism adapted to operate automatically and periodically to engage and dis-
engage the ratchet actuating pawl, mechanism for producing a feed transversely
to the length of a buttonhole, and simultaneously therewith a relative vibratory
movement between the needle and work carrier lengthwise of a buttonhole
immediately after the disengagement of the actuating pawl from said ratchet
wheel, substantially as specified.
4. In a buttonhole sewing machine the combination with sewing mechanism
and a work-carrier, of a ratchet wheel and suitable means actuated thereby to
produce a feed of the said carrier lengthwise of a buttonhole, means to actuate
said ratchet wheel, means adapted to operate automatically and periodically to
suspend the rotation of said wheel, mechanism to produce a relative vibratory
movement between the needle and work carrier transversely to the length of the
buttonhole, and a cam also actuated by said ratchet wheel to control the mechanism
for producing said vibratory movement, said cam operating to suspend such
vibratory movement at or about the same time that rotation of said wheel ceases,
substantially as specified.
5. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with sewing mechanism
and a work-carrier of a pawl-actuated ratchet wheel, a pinion actuated by said
ratchet, mechanism intermediate said pinion and work-carrier, whereby the said
carrier is fed lengthwise of a buttonhole, means adapted to automatically and
periodically move the ratchet actuating pawl into and out of engagement with
said wheel, a needle bar and lever connected therewith by means of a pitman to
produce a vibratory movement of the needle bar, and means actuated by said
pinion to adjust the point of connection between said lever and pitman so as to

page_text: make such connection coincident with the fulcrum of said lever when the
actuating pawl is disengaged from said ratchet wheel, substantially as specified.
6. In a buttonhole machine, the combination of a vibratory needle bar, a lever
for vibrating the same, means to actuate said lever, a pitman intermediate of
the needle bar and said lever and connected with said lever so as to be capable
of being adjusted co-incidentally with the fulcrum of said lever or along either
arm of said lever, and a cam for adjusting the point of connection between said
pitman and lever, substantially as specified.
7. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with sewing mechanism
and a work carrier, of a plate connected to said carrier, a cam and means to
rotate the same, a cam follower attached directly to said plate and bearing
against said cam, so as to feed the work carrier transversely to the length of a
buttonhole and means to vary the amplitude of movement of said plate, substan-
tially as and for the purpose described.
8. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with sewing mechanism
and a work carrier, of means for producing side stitches and means for producing
barring stitches at substantially right angles to and overlapping the side stitches,
substantially as specified.
Dated this 26th dor of (Intalon 1900
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
45. Southampton Buildings, London, W.C.,
Agents for the Applicant.