Felt Hats and in Apparatus therefor.
Year: 1888

page_text: Date of Application, 24th Jan., 1888
Specification Accepted, 24th Feb., 1888
Felt Hats and in Apparatus therefor.
I WILLIAM MORGAN of No. 2 Foster Lane Cheapside London E.C. Engineer do
hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:
This Invention relates to an improved process for finishing felt hoods and felt hats
so as not only to produce a more glossy surface but also to permanently fix the lustre
thereon and to render the same far more impervious to injury from rain spots than
has hitherto been practicable.
To effect this I take a felt hood or hat in the undyed state (technically termed "in
the white") and wet or damp that side which is to form the finished surface thereof
after which I raise the nap on such surface with a wire brush or card or in any other.
convenient manner-When so raising the nap I first comb the surface vertically and
then horizontally after doing which I sometimes comb it diagonally the number of
such combings being regulated by the quality of nap required to be produced I then
dry the hood or hat gradually in a stove in the ordinary manner after which I shave
or cut the nap in the ordinary way so as to reduce it to any required length.
I would here observe that the initial stages of damping raising the nap combing
drying and shaving or cutting herein before described must always be carried out
while the goods are in the white whether my invention be applied to dyed or undyed
goods-I then take the hood or hat and velour it hot after which I sponge it with a
cold wet or damp sponge and then iron and hot press it or I may iron it only or hot
press it only By this means I produce a highly finished surface If the hat is in the
hood form when so treated I mount the hood on a conical block before so treating it
but if it be in the hat form I place the hat on its own block and then finish it by
velouring hot, spongeing, iron and hot pressing or ironing only or hot pressing only
in the manner above described.
If in the hood form I then after so treating it turn the hood outside in thus bringing
the finished surface inside I then double or fold the hood in half so that the two
halves of such finished surface are brought into contact with each other I then place
the hood in a press (Fig. 1) and screw it down so as to press the two halves of the
finished surface closely together. I then place the hood or hat while so compressed

page_text: in a hot water bath the water being heated to any suitable degree varying from 120°
to 180° Fahrenheit according to the description of goods treated as colored goods
require a less degree of heat than black goods-1 allow the hood to remain in such
bath for about 8 hours taking care to keep the water at one uniform degree of heat
during such period I then allow the water to gradually cool for about 12 hours after
which I again raise the heat to the same degree as in the first instance and keep the
bath at this temperature for a further period of 8 hours-Before so reheating the bath
I take the hood out of the press and refold it so as to bring the crease formed therein
by the previous fold in the centre of the press and apply pressure thereto thus
ensuring a uniform gloss over the entire finished surface of the hood.
I then take the press out of the bath and remove the hood therefrom after which I
turn it inside out I then in order to render it proof against rain spots first
dye it then dry it in the stove after which I replace it on the conical block--and brush
it with an ordinary brush so as to lay the nap straight-I then velour it hot and damp
it with a cold moist sponge after which I iron it hot until dry.
If the hat under treatment be in the hood form I place it on its own block and
brush it after which I iron hot and velour hot-Or if it be in the hat form I first
brush it and then iron hot velour hot and press hot.
The hood or hat is then again turned outside in and steamed in the following
manner vizt. I first construct a receiver (Fig. 3) of any convenient size shape and
material fitted with a central steam pipe connected with any suitable supply and
placed in any convenient position-This receiver is also fitted with a solid top which
is hermetically closed Such receiver is capable of containing a number of hoods or
hats which are packed together around the steam pipe-The top of such steam pipe
is hermetically closed with a cap plate while suitable perforations are formed around
its sides It is also covered with a jacket of felt canvas or other suitable material so
as to break up the volume of the steam and distribute it equally amongst the hoods or
hats packed in the receiver thus causing them to be thoroughly permeated therewith
and in order to ensure an equal distribution and permeation I change the position of
the hoods or hats placed in the receiver so as to bring the outermost inside and
vice versa such change of position being made after one hours steaming when they
are again subjected to steam pressure for another hour.
The receiver is fitted with a false bottom consisting of a perforated plate having a
central aperture therein to allow the steam pipe to pass through it to the bottom of
the receiver-The object of providing such false bottom is to allow any condensed
steam to filter through into the bottom of the receiver and so prevent its injuring the
finished surfaces of the hoods or hats therein-The sides of the receiver are also
perforated so as to allow the steam to escape freely therethrough after permeating the
goods thereby to a considerable extent preventing condensation of the steam and so
permanently fixing the gloss upon the finished surfaces of the hoods or hats.
If in the hood form the hat is then blocked to the required shape either by water
or steam in the ordinary manner after which it is dried and veloured hot and pressed
in a warm dish of medium heat say from about 120° to about 160° Fahrenheit.
If however a very high lustre is required to be produced 1 dispense with the
ironing and hot pressing before steaming and in lieu thereof I velour hot, iron hot
and press hot in the manner herein before described after such steaming By this
means 1 obtain a much higher gloss but such gloss is more susceptible to injury
from rain spots than when the hoods or hats are treated in the manner above described
This high finishing process is particularly adapted to ladies felt hats for the home
market and also to goods destined for the foreign and Colonial markets.
After being treated in the manner above described the hood or hat is trimmed and
finally veloured with a hot pad.
I would here observe that my improved process as hereinbefore described is
particularly adapted for developing the natural lustre of the wool or fur under
treatment and is equally applicable thereto either in its undyed or dyed condition in
the manner herein before described,

page_text: An alternative method of carrying out my invention and which is applicable either
to felt hoods or felt hats is as follows:-I provide a suitable tank (Fig. 7) capable of
containing water and which is fitted with an inner cage in the centre of which is a
perforated steam pipe which is hermetically closed at the top and covered with felt
canvas or other suitable material in the manner before described-The hoods or hats
are packed in such inner cage around the jacketed steam pipe after which the tank is
filled with cold or hot water and steam is then injected through the steam pipe from
any suitable supply into such tank In the course of its injection the steam is blown.
through the goods and driven into the water--Care must be taken to regulate the
steam so that the water is not of a less temperature than about 120° for colored goods
or higher than about 160° Fahrenheit for black goods Such heat is maintained for
8 hours after which the bath is allowed to cool for say from 2 to 4 hours after which
it is reheated to its original heat for a period of from 4 to 8 hours.
The goods are then taken out from the bath and if undyed they are then dyed if
required after which they are blocked or steamed to the desired shape-They are
then dried-veloured hot-ironed hot and pressed hot and then steamed in the manner
before described or first steamed and then veloured hot ironed hot and pressed hot
in the manner before described after which they are trimmed and finally veloured
hot.
The following is an alternative method of pressing the hoods which is applicable
to both methods of carrying out my invention (that is to say):-Instead of folding
the boods singly and separately in the manner before described a series of hoods
consisting of any convenient number may be placed on a conical block (as shewn at
Figs. 56 of the accompanying drawings) In so arranging the hoods I take care to
place them on the block in pairs the lower one of each pair having its finished surface
outside while the upper one is turned inside out so as to bring its finished surface in
contact with the finished surface of the bottom one when it is placed thercon
order to compress such hoods tightly together such block is mounted on a suitable
base plate furnished with two or more screw threaded rods and fitted with a perforated
metal dome which is placed on such rods and secured with screw nuts which take on
to such screw threaded rods and thus allow any required degree of pressure to be
applied--The dome is perforated so as to allow the hoods or hats to be thoroughly
saturated whilst in the bath.
In
Another feature of my invention relates to an improved method of straining the
crowns and fixing and compressing the brims of felt hats when on their own block so
as to render the shape of the crown more permanent and secure an equal lustre on the
brims as on the crowns of such hats-Such improved method consists in placing two
hats on a suitable block with their finished surfaces together as herein before described
after which I cover the same with a perforated metal cap having a rim of suitable
dimensions and weight (Figs. 8-9) and if required I bolt or otherwise fasten such
cap down on the hats-1 then put them into the bath and treat them in the manner
hereinbefore described By this means I apply an equal pressure both to the crowns
and brims over their entire surface and so permanently fix the shape of the crowns
and secure an eveness of finish and gloss on the brims equal to that on the crowns of
such hats at a single operation Such improved method of pressing the crowns and
brims is much simpler than any hitherto employed.
One great advantage of my improved process whether carried out in its primary or
in its modified form is that a large number of felt hoods or felt hats can be so treated
at one time thus effecting a very considerable economy in the cost of manufacture.
Similar letters of reference indicate corresponding parts throughout the accom-
panying drawings-Fig. 1 shews a view in elevation of the press first hereinbefore
described a is the top plate-6 the base plate-c the screw threaded rods-d the
nuts A number of hoods are shewn compressed therein-Fig. 2 shews a

page_text: plan view of such press-Fig. 3 shews a vertical section of the first described
receiver-e is the receiver the perforated central steam pipe covered with
felt canvas or other suitable material g the solid top-g the cap plate of
the steam pipe the perforated false bottom-h¹ the bottom of the receiver-
i the chamber for receiving the condensed steam- the steam supply pipe-
k collar fastened with screws and nuts -A number of hoods are shewn packed
round the steam pipe Fig. 4 is a plan view of the perforated false bottom shewing
central aperture therein Fig. 7 shews a sectional view of the alternative form of
receiver hereinbefore described- is the tank filled with water- the inner cage-
m the perforated steam pipe covered with felt canvas or other suitable material-A
number of hoods are shewn packed in the inner cage-Figs. 5. 6. shew views in
n is the conical
elevation of the alternative form of press herein before described
block shewn in Fig. 5 with a number of hoods placed thereon-n¹ is the base plate-
o are the screw threaded rods-o¹ the perforated dome which is shewn in vertical
section and secured with nuts o²-Figs. 8. 9. shew views in elevation and plan of my
improved apparatus for simultaneously straining the crowns and pressing the brims of
felt hoods or felt hats as hereinbefore described-p is a perforated crown with rim p¹
likewise perforated-the two together constituting a perforated cap.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is.
1°. The improved process for the treatment and manufacture of felt hoods and felt
hats substantially as herein before firstly described.
2°. In combination with such improved process the apparatus for carrying the same
into operation all substantially as hereinbefore described and shewn.
3°. The modification substantially as hereinbefore described of my said improved
process for the treatment and manufacture of felt hoods and felt hats."
4°. In combination with such modified process the apparatus for carrying the same
into operation all substantially as hereinbefore described and shewn.
5°. The apparatus for simultaneously applying an equal pressure to the crowns and
brims of folt hoods and felt hats constructed and applied all substantially in the
manner and for the purposes hereinbefore described and shewn.
Dated this 24th day of January 1ððð.
Dated this 24th day of January 1ððð.
ELT & Co.,
33, Southampton Buildings, Holborn, London,
Agents for the Applicant.