IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FIGURED SHAWLS AND OTHER' WOVEN FABRICS
Year: 1869

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Robert Lake, of the "International
Patent Offico," No. 8, Southampton Buildings, Chancery Lane, in
the County of Middlesex, Consulting Engineer, for the Invention
of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FIGURED SHAWLS AND OTHER'
WOVEN FABRICS."-A communication from abroad by Etienne
Rivoiron, of Paris, in the Empire of France.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Robert Lake
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition,
on the 16th January 1809.
WILLIAM ROBERT LAKE, of the "International Patent Office,"
No. 8, Southampton Buildings, Oliancery Lane, in the County of
Middlesex, Consulting Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of the
said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FIGURED SHAWLS
AND OTHER WOVEN FABRICS," a communication, to bo as follows:-
The object of this Invention is to give more brilliancy to the figured
ground of imitation Indian cashmere shawls by substituting for the

page_text: ordinary warp throughout the ground of figured colours various warps of
the same colours as the different shades of the figures. My intention is
also to imitate the relief of an embroidered or openwork shawl by the
superposition of the figured details upon the ground and the irregularity
of the fastening of the heddles, which though regular for the whole of
the cording becomes irregular for each one of the threads of each shade
or tint, according to the design formed on the pattern card.
The warp is made up of one thread of each one of the colours of the
figured ground. The said warp may be of various materials, such as
twisted wool or raw silk.
The mounting of the loom may be effected in two ways, according as
it is desired to produce a figured serge fabric or a figured taffeta fabric.
For the serge mixed threads are employed. Rings are arranged three to
every two hooks. The first hook raises two, and the second hook raises
one of the said rings and another ring. The draught is regular. through
fifteen leaves, sinking and rising by one thread of each colour. For tho
taffeta fabric simple threads are employed in regular order, one ring
upon each hook.. The draught is regular for five threads, one of each
colour.
1
| Upon cach of the throws of the shuttle to obtain the figured taffeta ?
one leaf of heddles, upon which are collected the warp threads of the
same colour, is depressed; thus upon the first throw of red the first leaf
of red warp, upon the first throw of white the first leaf of white warp,
and so on; then upon the second throw of red the second leaf of red
warp, upon the second throw of white the second leaf of white warp; and 2
at last for the figured serge upon the third throw of red the third leaf of
red
warp is depressed, and upon the third throw of white the third leaf
of white warp. I thus obtain either a serge or a taffeta at the right side.
of the wefts by threads of warp of the same colour. Upon the throw of
yellow no warps are depressed. This weft forms at the right side of the 3
fabric waves of weft, and is tied to the under side of the fabric all across
upon ono or several of the sets of warp threads. The figure or pattern
is made upon plain paper without any pointing. The yellow part only.
is pointed in such a manner as to avoid the large waves of weft, this.
colour having no warp to tie it. The cards are operated in the ordinary 3
manner. Mechanism is attached to the loom to operate the harness.
In conclusion, the distinguishing character of my Invention consists
the employment for weaving, figured shawls of warp threads as

page_text: diversely coloured as the threads of the weft in such a manner as to tie
cach colour of the weft by warp threads of a like colour, and thus obtain
more firmness and brilliancy in the divers tints, at the same time
avoiding the effects due to the simultaneous contrast of the two colours
which is produced when the weft has its fastening made apparent by a
warp of a dissimilar colour.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said William Robert Lake in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 16th July 1869.
"
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, WILLIAM
ROBERT LAKE, of the "International Patent Office, No. 8, Southamp-
ton Buildings, Ohancory Lanc, in tho County of Middlesex, Consulting
Engineer, send greeting.
.
:
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Sixteenth day of January, in the
year of our Lord One thousand oight hundred and sixty-nino, in the
thirty-second year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Ifer heirs and suc-
cessors, give and grant unto me, the said William Robert Lake,
Her special licence that I, the said William Robert Lake, my execu-
tors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, tlfo said William
Robert Lake, my exccutors, administrators, and assigns, should 'at
any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all
times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully
might make, uso, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention
for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FIGURED SHAWLS AND OTHER WOVEN
FABRICE," upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said William
Robert Lake, my executors or administrators, by an instrument in
writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and scals, should
particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and
in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to
be filed in the Great Scal Patent Office within six calendar months next
and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said William Robert Lako, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner tho

page_text: sanie is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in
and by the following statement, referenco being had to the accompanying
Drawing forming a part of this Specification;―
The object of this Invention is to give great brilliancy to the figured
ground of imitation Indian cashmere shawls by substituting for the t
ordinary warp throughout the ground of figured details divers warps of
the same colours as the different shades of the figuring. My intention
is also to imitate the relief of an embroidered shawl by the superposition
of the figured details upon the ground or back, and the irregularity of
the tying of the barness, which though regular for the whole of the
flushing becomes irregular for each of the threads of each shade,
according to the design of the pattern card.
The warp is made up of one thread of each of the colours of the
ground of the figuring, as shewn by Figure 1, as, for example, one red,
one white, one blue, one green, and one black. The said warp may be 1
of diverse nature, such as wool, two-fold yarn, or wool and raw or
net silk.
The arrangement and mounting of the loom may be porformed in two
ways, according as it is desired to produce a figured serge fabric, 2 the 3,
or a figured taffeta, In the mounting for the serge 2 the 3 the hecting 2
or tie-up is of combined cords, as shewn by the letter B of the plan.
The first hook raises the mails or loops 1 and 2, which are thus engaged
therein; the second hook raises the loops 2 and 3, thus engaged therein.
Weave together regular upon fifteen leaves, sinking and rising one
thread of each colour, say, one red, one white, one blue, one green, one
black (see Figure 2). The tio-up for the figured taffeta is of simple
cords and regular, and there is a single mail or loop to cach hook.
Weave together for five threads, one of each colour, as, for instance,
one red, ono white, one blue, one green, and one black; then regular
or together upon ten leaves, sinking and rising.
At each throw of the shuttle for producing the figured taffeta one
Icaf, through which are drawn the threads of the same colour, is
depressed, that is to say, at the first throw of red the first leaf of red
warp, at the first throw of white the first leaf of white warp, and so on
in succession, see Figure 3, which shows the taffeta cording; then at
the second throw of red the second leaf of red warp, at the second-
throw of white the second leaf of white warp; and, finally, for the figured
berge 2 the 3, at the third throw of red the third leaf of red warp is

page_text: depressed, and upon the third throw of white the third leaf of whito
warp, see Figure 4, which shows the serged cording. I thus obtain
either a serge binding 2 the 3, or a taffeta binding at the right side of
the weft threads by warp threads of the same colour. At the throw of
yellow no leaves are depressed. This weft produces at the right side of
the fabric flushings of weft, and is bound at the under or wrong side of
the fabric all across upon one or a number of the divisions of the warp.
The design or pattern is made upon blank paper without any punctures.
The yellow only is marked so as to avoid too great rubbing of the web,
this colour having no warp to tio it. The ordinary tying is adopted
without any reading of the harness. Mechanism is annexed to the loom
for the working of the harness, governed by the healds,
In conclusion, the distinctive character of my Invention consists in
the employment, for the weaving of figured shawls, of warp threads as
diversely coloured as the weft threails or figure in such manner as, to
bind cach color of the weft or of the figure by warp threads of liko
colour, and thereby obtain greater strength and brilliancy in the various
tones, thus avoiding the appearance of a shot fabric, which would bo
caused by the contrast of the two colours when the weft or figuring has
its binding made apparent by the side of a warp of a dissimilar colour.
Having thus described the said Invention, as communicated to me by
my foreign correspondent, and shown how the same may be conveniently
and advantageously carried into practice, I wish it understood that I
claim, the herein-described improvements in weaving figured woven
fabrics, particularly the fabrics called cashmeres, for shawls and other
articles.
articles.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Robert Lake, have hereunto
set my hand and scal, this Fifteenth day of July, in the y'car
of our Lord One thousand cight hundred and sixty-nine.
WILLIAM ROBERT LAKE. (L.S.)