IMPROVEMENTS IN FABRICS PRO- DUCED BY LACE MACHINERY
Year: 1875

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to John Whiteley, of the Firm of Whiteley,
Stevens, and Company, of the Town and County of the Town of
Nottingham, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN FABRICS PRO-
DUCED BY LACE MACHINERY,"
Sealed the 21st January 1876, and dated the 25th August 1875.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said John Whiteley at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
25th August 1875.
I, JOHN WHITELEY, of the Firm of Whiteley, Stevens, and Company,
5 of the Town and County of the Town of Nottingham, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN FABRICS
PRODUCED BY LACE MACHINERY," to be as follows:-
For this purpose, according to one part of my Invention, I employ
bobbin net or twist lace machines, and I so arrange the threads and the
O movements of them by the bars that linen or woven work will be
produced similar to that made on, the loom with a warp and weft: To

page_text: 'effect this I thread one of the guide bars with one thread to each bobbin
and carriage, and as the bobbins and carriages pass to and fro I shift
this guide bar two to the left and two to the right alternately, which
will make solid or opaque work; the thread for this bar will be taken
from spools or bobbins, so that figures may be produced.
.
I use other threads in conjunction with the above-mentioned threads
in separate bars, and cross them for the bobbins and carriages to pass
through. This crossing will be done every alternate motion, one half
of the threads on the right-hand side of the carriage, and the other half
.of the threads on the left-hand side of the carriage. These threads by
this process will be woven under and over the loops of the first-mentioned
bar that loops or laps round two of the bobbin threads.
By this method similar work to weaving will be produced, and
figuring may also be produced, either with extra bars or intercepters
worked by jacquard apparatus. By this means a considerable length of
fabric can be produced from one set of bobbin threads, owing to their
passing straight down the fabric and simply thus acting as warp
threads.
.
According to another part of my improvements I produce linen or
woven work in warp lace machines, and I use a pillar thread to each
needle, and these threads will always loop on the same needles, forming
what is known as pillars. For connecting these pillars together I use
another guide bar threaded with one thread to each needle; these threads
pass under two needles and lap on one of them. The apparatus or
sinkers then take them back to the stem of the needle, and it passes
under another needle; the pillar bar will then lap its threads on the
needle and secure these threads, tying or lacing them (the pillars)
together to form cloth or solid fabric; then I put other threads in other
guide bars, one half of them on the right-hand side of the needle, and
the other half on the left, and as the loops are made the left-hand
threads will go to the right, and the right-hand threads to the left side
of the needle; this taking place every time the loop is made, these
threads come in between the pillars and form under and over work as
weaving.
According to another part of my Invention I use a warp lace machine
and thread the bottom bar, one thread to cach needle, and each will
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page_text: with one thread to each needle; these two bars then move one of them
three needles to the right, the other bar three to the left; the pillar bar
then laps its threads on the needles to make the loops closing into the
pillar the weaving threads that are above the pillar. This method of
working these pillar threads with the two weaving bars passing three
needles to the right and three needles to the left will give an opportunity
of producing very pretty figures of a novel character with bars or
intercepters worked by jacquard apparatus.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said John Whiteley in the Great Seal Patent Office
on the 23rd February 1876.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JOHN
WHITELEY, of the Firm of Whiteley, Stevens, and Company, of the
Town and County of the Town of Nottingham, send greeting...
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Twenty-fifth day of August, in the year
of our Lord. One thousand eight hundred and seventy-five, in the
thirty-ninth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and suc-
cessors, give and grant unto me, the said John Whiteley, Her special
license that I, the said John Whiteley, my executors, administrators,
and assigns, or such others as I, the said John Whiteley, my executors,
administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no
others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the term
therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the
Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
FABRICS PRODUCED BY LACE MACHINERY," upon the condition (amongst
others) that I, the said John Whiteley, my executors or administrators,
by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands
and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the
said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed,
and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within
six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said
Letters Patent,

page_text: NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said John Whiteley, do hereby declare-
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to
be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement thereof, that is to say :-
For this purpose, according to one part of my Invention, I employ
bobbin net or twist lace machines, and I so arrange the threads and the
movements of them by the guide bars that linen or woven work will be
produced similar to that made on the loom with a warp and weft. To
effect this I thread one of the guide bars with one thread to each bobbin
and carriage, and as the bobbins and carriages pass to and fro I shift
this guide bar two carriages to the left and two carriages to the right
alternately, which will make solid or opaque work. The thread for this
guide bar is supplied from spools or bobbins, so that figures may be
produced by stopping the guide bar, by intercepters or otherwise, from
passing over two carriages and varying its movements from right to left
as may be required by the character of the figure or design to be
produced.
I use other warp threads in conjunction with the above-mentioned
bobbin and guide bar threads in separate bars, and cross them for the
bobbins and carriages to pass through. This crossing will take place at
every alternate motion, one half of the threads on the right-hand side
of the carriage, and the other half of the threads on the left-hand side
of the carriage. These threads by this process will be woven under and
over the loops of the first-mentioned bar that loops or laps round two of
the bobbin threads.
The method of carrying out this part of my Invention will be clearly
understood by any one acquainted with the production of fabrics on
twist lace machines by reference to the annexed diagram of a piece of
fabric on a magnified scale, the nature of the several threads employed
being stated therein.
By this method similar work to weaving can be produced, and
figuring may also be produced, either with extra bars or intercepters
worked by jacquard or other figuring apparatus. By this means a
considerable length of fabric can be produced from one set of bobbin
threads owing to their passing straight down the fabric and simply thus
acting as warp threads.

page_text: According to another part of my improvements I produce linen or
woven work in warp lace machines, and I use a pillar thread to each
needle, and these threads will always loop on the same needles, forming
what is known as pillars. For connecting these pillars together I use
another guide bar threaded with one thread to each needle; these
threads pass under two needles and lap on one of them. The apparatus,
instruments, or sinkers then take the threads back to the stem of the
needle, and each weaving thread passes under another needle; the pillar
bar will then lap its threads on the needle and secure these threads,
tying or lacing them (the pillars) together to form cloth or solid fabric.
Other threads are employed carried by other guide bars, one half of
them on the right-hand side of the needle, and the other half on the
left, and as the loops are made by the second-mentioned guide bar these
last-mentioned threads will all be brought betwixt the two needles, the
left-hand threads will go to the right and the right-hand threads to the
left side of the needle, this taking place every time the loop is made;
these threads come in between the pillars and form under and over work
as weaving.
According to another part of my Invention I also use a warp lace
machine and thread the bottom bar, one thread to each needle, and each
thread will always form loops on the same needle; then I thread two
other bars with one thread to each needle, that is, two full sets of
threads; these two bars then move one of them three needles to the
right, the other bar three to the left; the pillar bar then laps its threads
on the needles to make the loops closing into the pillar the weaving
threads that are above the pillar. This method of working these pillar
threads with the two weaving bars passing three needles to the right and
three needles to the left will afford an opportunity for producing very
pretty figures of a novel character with bars or intercepters worked by
jacquard or other figuring apparatus.
Having thus described the nature of my Invention, and the manner
of performing or carrying the same into practice, what I claim is,-
First. The improved method of producing fabrics in twist lace
machinery by taking the weaving or looping threads from beams, spools,
or bobbins instead of taking them from the bobbins and carriages as
heretofore, the bobbin threads being thus arranged to serve as warp or
straight down threads, thereby causing them to make lengths of fabric

page_text: equal or nearly so to the length of the bobbin threads employed; all-
arranged to act substantially in the manner herein-before described and
represented in the Drawing hereto annexed.
Secondly. I claim the production of linen or woven work in fabrics
made by warp lace machinery, substantially in the manner herein before
described, whereby very novel and improved effects are produced in the
manufacture of such fabrics.
Thirdly. I claim the improved method of employing a pillar bar in
combination with two weaving bars in the manufacture of fabrics
made by warp lace machinery, substantially in the manner herein-before 1
described.
Fourthly. I claim the improved manufacture of fabrics in twist lace
and warp lace machinery, substantially in the manner herein-before
described and represented in the Drawing annexed.
In witness whereof, I, the said John Whiteley, have hereunto set 1
my hand and seal, this Ninth day of February, in the year of*
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-six.
JOHN WHITELEY
(LS)