AN IMPROVED METHOD OF MAKING A CHEAP SHOE AND SLIPPER
Year: 1886

page_text: Date of Application, 20th Nov.; 1886.
Complete Left, 9th Aug., 1887.
Complete Accepted, 9th Sept., 1887.
GEORGE CUMMINGS Junr. Waterloo Bridge Blyth Northumberland, Boot and Shoe
Maker do hereby declare the nature of my invention for AN IMPROVED METHOD OF
MAKING A CHEAP SHOE AND SLIPPER to be as follows :-
This invention is a new method of fastening the soles of shoes to the uppers, by
which means the cost of labour and material is greatly reduced, and the comfort of
the wearer greatly increased. The invention consists in stitching the upper direct to
the sole on and from the outside of shoe, by means of ordinary strong wax-thread
machine.
The upper and sole are cut to the exact shape and size required, the sole is then
thoroughly wet and well worked, and is ready for machining.
The toe of upper (the upper being right side out) is placed flat on the toe of sole,
and the machining is commenced there, and is continued all round the side of sole
to the heel, (the edge of sole and upper being exactly together all round) The
machining is then commenced at toe again, and continued all round the other side, to
the heel. The outside heel counter of upper, (which had been cut deeper than
quarter,' and which had been turned up while the quarter was being stitched to the
sole) is then turned down; the stiffener is inserted between quarter and counter so
that the bottom of stiffener rests on the ledge of sole; the counter is then.lasted over
on to the sole, in the usual way, and the heel is put on.
The claim of this invention is that the upper is sewn to the sole from the outside
and on the outside entirely; Thus-(a) Greatly reducing cost of labour.
(B) Dispensing with insoles; and uppers being exact size; cost of material is
lessened.
(C) No lasts being required, labour & plant saved.
(D) Comfort of wearer greatly increased, as the inside of sole free from either
nails or thread.
Dated this 19th day of November 1886.

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improved Method of Making a Cheap Shoe and Slipper.
GEORGE CUMMINGS Junr. Waterloo Road Blyth Northumberland Boot Maker, do
hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:
This invention is a new method of fastening the uppers to the soles of shoes or
slippers, particularly the heel portion of the uppers, by which means Insoles are
dispensed with, and no lasts required, thus reducing cost of material and labour.
The soles and uppers are first cut to the exact size and shape required.
The upper is made with an outside heel counter (which is stitched on the outside
of quarter) and is made to project about inch below the bottom of quarter.
The method of fastening upper to sole is as follows-
7
The sole is well wet, and worked, and is ready for machining. An ordinary wax
thread sewing machine is most sutable-The toe of upper (the upper being right side
out (is placed flat on the toe of sole, and the machining commenced there, and
continued all round side to heel. (The outside heel counter being turned up while the
quarter is being stitched to the sole.)
The machining is commenced at the toe again and continued all round the other
side to heel.
That portion of the quarter which is covered by the outside counter can be
I. either stitched to the sole in the above manner right round heel, or
II. may be left loose and simply pulled over the edge of sole and kept in place by
the counter when finished.
The stiffner is now inserted between the quarter and the outside counter, and the
outside counter is then lasted over on to the sole, and is covered by the top piece or
heel, which is fixed in the usual way.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said Invention,
and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what claim is :-
(1.) The mode of fastening the heel of upper to the sole, by bringing part of
the heel of upper over on to the sole itself, and so lasting it.
(2.) Thus making the sole at that place, take the place of an insole.
(3.) And therefore making a shoe which is made on the foregoing method (viz.
by stitching the upper to sole on the outside) have all the advantages at the heel
which an ordinary shoe made with an insole has.
Dated this Eighth day of August 1887.
GEORGE CUMMINGS.