Year: 1888

page_text: Date of Application, 25th May, 1888
Complete Specification Left, 23rd Feb., 1889
Complete Specification Accepted, 18th May, 1889
JOHN HEWITT, 113 Albert Road, Sheffield, in the County of York, Glazier's
Wheel Glass Cutter Maker and Bee Keeper, do hereby declare the nature of this
invention to be as follows:-
The first part consists of a Bottom, commonly called a Floor Board, in which an
entrance way is cut on three sides; which when not required for use, are stopped up,
preferably with perforated metal, which slips into a groove formed by nailing a strip
of metal in front of the entrance way on the face of the floor board. These entrance
closers, by moving to right or left, also regulate the size of the entrance, and by
being of perforated metal, too small for the passage of a bee; they will also allow
for ventilation. Narrow strips of timber, preferably the same thickness as the flat
board forming the floor, are nailed or fastened round three sides, flush with the
outer edge, and under these, similar strips are fastened round all four sides. In one
piece however an entrance way is cut; under these a sheet of perforated metal with
holes too small for the passage of a bee, is fastened on; thus the Floor Board
has a wood face on one side, and when inverted, it presents a perforated face,
when extra ventilation is required in 'transit or otherwise. A stud is fastened at
each corner of the center strips, for the external covering or shroud to rest or
fasten on.
The second part consists of a Body Box or Story, to hold combs, bees,
comb frames, or Sections for comb honey; in which on each side, is a loose side,
dummy or division board, each preferably formed of two pieces of board fastened
together, fitting close from side to side, but hanging a bee-space of about
five-sixteenths of an inch from the bottom level of box; the bottom edge of the
other side is two bee spaces from the same level; in ordinary use, this is filled up
with a narrow piece of wood, a bee space wide, having strips of thin metal nailed on
one side, which are pushed between the two pieces of board, which hold it in
position by friction; when this strip rests on the two-bee-space side, the edges of both
are level; when it rests on the one-bee-space side, which it will do after turning
round, it makes makes the side boards fill the Body Boxes from side to side and
from top to bottom. If now the Body Box, is set on the Floor Board, and these side
boards are set at equal distances from side to side, and from each other, if the Body

page_text: Box holds nine frames; the Body Box, will be divided into three compartments, with
an entrance way to each in the Floor Board, allowing for the accommodation of three
small colonies of bees, suitable for Queen bee rearing, and which can at any time be
united into one, after closing two entrance ways, and moving the Division Boards
to the sides; in which position, breeding is induced in the outer combs. The thir
part consists of shoulders on the ends of the frames to space them the correct
distance apart.
At the end of each frame, on one edge, is a stud, and on the
other edge, the length or breadth of the first ones, from the end, are similar studs ;
thus the studs of each frame interpass each other, to space the frames close, and by
turning each alternate frame round, the studs touch each other, spacing the combs.
double the distance from each other; these studs may be formed either by leaving
sufficient timber on each frame top bar, when cutting them, or they may be glued
or nailed on, and may be of wood, metal, or other suitable substanco; but I prefer
to cast them in iron, with a thin flat piece of iron, with a hole in the center, united 10
the middle of each stud; which I fit to end of each frame, by sawing a slit in
the end of each; into which I push the thin flat part, leaving the connected
studs projecting on the outside edges; they are further secured by a nail or screw
which passes through the center holo. The fourth part consists of making the
honey boxes, commonly called Sections, of four or more pieces of glass, or of three
pieces of glass and one of wood, metal, or other suitable material, to allow for the
honey and wax tracery to be seen. These are inado as follows; an encircling thin
strip of metal, the size of the Section required, the corners of which, either have
cross strips soldered on, or corresponding projecting pieces are left on in the cutting,
which are bent over the glass slips to hold them in position until the Section is
filled with comb and honey by the bees, when they may either be took off, or used to
fasten glass over their faces or sides. I prefer to make these metal Encirclers, of two
very narrow strips, such as thin wire rolled flat; and solder on them moderately
stout cross pieces over the corners. Glass Sections made in this way, are worked in
the same manner on, or in the hives, that wooden ones-are-at-present. I also make
theso Glass honey comb Sections as follows; studs with slits in, are fixed on the
Dividers, used to induce, or prevent becs building uneven combs, at the proper
distance for the size of Section required, by means of the slits; a groove is cut in
these studs at right angles to the slits, the width of two pieces of glass for the central
studs, and of one piece of glass for the ends, to hold the sides upright. I prefer to
make the sections one width, on all four sides, as I can get the necessary bee space
between them by means of these studs, which touch the Sections at each corner.
Section is built up thus; two pieces of glass for the sides, rest their ends on the floor,
and stand upright between the grooved studs ; the bottoms, which may be of one or
two pieces of glass, wood, metal, or other material, rest on their flat surface on the
floor between the two sides, which keep them straight; the tops, which may also be
of one or two pieces of glass; rest their ends on the side tops, and are kept from
slipping more over one than the other, by means of a thin bit of sheet metal, with
two or more cuts in one edge, each piece of which is bent alternate ways in the
form of a T, this is dropped between each Section, to keep the tops in their place.
The studs on each divider keep the Sections it holds and those in the next row in
their places, until filled with comb and honey by the bees, which will afterwards
keep or hold all the pieces together. Glass Sections made in this way, may be worked
on, or in the hives, in the same manner that most wooden ones are; but I prefer to
work them in open topped frames, made by nailing strips of tin plate or other similar
material, to a bottom rail of wood, the top end I bend at right angles and nail on a
bit of wood to rest on the hive side; two projecting pieces are left on one side of
each piece, which are bent at right angles inwardly, which go in a slit formed in
the stud, between it and the divider, which thus buttons the dividers to the frame
ends; these frames with the studded dividers fastened on, enable me to lift in or
out of the hive, a whole row of sections at once, also to fill them in the most
convenient position and then lift them into the hive; these frames instead of having
ends of, thin metal, may have ends of wood, and instead of open tops, may have
-
The

page_text: bar or railed tops, and instead of being supported on the top edge of hive walls, they
may either rest on the frames below, or on a ledge fastened to bottom edge of
hive walls, or a moveable rim, or bar placed on the top of the frames; and
although I prefer to make the studs of wood, they may be made in metal or other
sutable material, or even thin pieces of metal bent into a U forin, to hold the sides
upright in their places. To fix comb guides, or impressed bees wax foundation in
these glass Sections, I either use a top in two pieces, pressing a sheet or piece between,
or use both tops and bottoms in two pieces and pass a sheet between both, just
to stand clear of the sides, or which I prefer, I use tops and bottoms of one piece,
I also prefer to cut the wax foundation a trifle less in size than inside of Section ;
now take a flat shallow dish and melt some bees wax in it, while floating on boiling
water; when sufficient is melted, and leaving a lump of wax melting to keep up the
supply as fast as used, I take up the sheets of wax foundation I have cut, and dip
each edge in the wax, which being very shallow, can only cover little more than the
edge this prevents the bees biting the edges away, and furnishes them with sufficient
wax to fasten it all round to Section. I now take the tops and put them in hot water,
hot enough to melt bees wax, which I make sure of, by a little melted, being
always floating on the top; when these tops are all equally heated, I take one at a time
out, and after wipeing it dry, I pick up one of the pieces of wax foundation, with
the edges waxed, and press one of them on the center of the glass, leaving it
there between a guido, untill it cools; in the meantime I take another out of the
water and treat it in the same manner, proceeding thus, untill all are done. Those that
have got cold, will have the foundation firmly fastened, and can at once be fixed in
position in the Sections; leaving the sides and bottom of foundation, which hangs
from the top, to be fastened by the bees.
:
The fifth part consists of a flat metal covered Roof, preferably Sheet Zinc, made as
follows; four strips of wood are fastened at the corners; the two opposite cach other
however are sunk lower than the other two; on the top of the highest two, a sheet of
metal is fastened, which I prefer to cut somewhat larger than the outside of the
rectangle. Over the two sunk strips of wood and the metal sheet, two other strips
are fastened, resting on the two highest strips; the sheet metal is turned upwards over
these two top strips and downwards over the other two. A strip of wood is fastened
under each side of the metal, to one of the wood strips, to keep it from touching the
top of hive, and to allow a free current of air to pass over the tops of frames or
Sections, through the openings formed by sinking the two sides; while by inverting
the roof, the metal sheet will touch them, when it is required to make the top story
warmer by letting the sun's rays fall on it, to induce the bees to occupy it, and be
equally rain proof both sides.
The sixth part consists in cutting the ends of each piece of wood an an angle of
45 deg. to form the rectangular corners; and down the center of each, inverted
wedge shaped grooves are cut; I now make metallic keys, cast or rolled in the form
of two wedges joined at right angles to their thin edges. I now take the two
pieces of wood, put their ends together, and drive these keys into the grooves,
treating all four corners alike, when a firm rectangular, bee hive Box, super case, or
roof will be formed.
The seventh part consists in making each Body Box thirteen and one half inches
square, or thereabouts internally, by six inches or thereabouts deep, and walls of equal
thickness; so that the combs of an upper story can be set at right angles to the lower
one, to give ample bee passages through every part of the hive in winter, and still
preserve the outside measurements of the Boxes. Also to enable each Body Box,
being used either as a breeding compartment, a surplus super for extracted honey,
or a surplus super for comb honey in glass or wooden Sections, as occasion may
require.

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Bee Hives and Appliances in Connection therewith.
JOHN HEWITT 113 Albert Road Sheffield in the County of York Glazier's Wheel
Glass Cutter Maker and Bee-keeper do hereby declare the nature of this invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement:-
The first part consists of a Bottom, commonly called a "Floor Board," figs. 1, 2, 3, 4,
5, 6, 7, 8, 9, and 10, in which an entrance way is cut on three sides, A, B, and C,
figs. 1, and 2; which when not required for use, are stopped up with plain, or perforated
metal D, figs. 7, and 8, which works in a groove a, a, figs. 7 and 8, formed by nailing
a strip of metal E, figs. 7 and 8, in front of the entrance way on the face of the
Floor Board. The Entrance Closer b in figs. -7 and 9,-is formed by bending a strip of
metal shape, to which a nail or stud is soldered or fastened to move it, and which
slides along the edge of the Floor Board, between it and the outer frame; either of
-these kinds can be used, though I prefer to-use both-kinds as-shown-in-fig. 7. These
Entrance Closers, by moving to right or left, also regulate the size of the entrance,
and by being of perforated metal too small for the passage of a bee, they will also
allow for ventilation; the one shown in fig 9 is represented as plain, but it can be
perforated too.
Fig. 3 is the ground plan of the Floor Board; fig. 4 a section across F, A; fig. 5 a
section across G, H; fig. 6 a section across C, B; fig. 1 shows the Floor Board the
plain side up, with three entrance ways; fig. 2 shows it inverted, with the face partly
covered with perforated metal J, too small for the passage of a bee, to allow for air,
or debris to pass by way of the slot K; thus the Floor Board has a wooden face on
one side, and when inverted or turned over, bottom side up, it presents a perforated
face, when extra ventilation is required in transit or otherwise. The Floor Board
may also be made as follows; narrow strips of timber, preferably the same thickness
as the flat board forming the floor, in which three entrance ways are cut, are nailed
or fastened round three sides flush with the outer edge, and under these, similar
strips are fastened round all four sides; in one piece however an entrance way is cut,
see fig. 10; under these a sheet of perforated metal, with holes too small for the
passage of a bee, is fastened on; made in this way, all the Entrance Closers, should be
made as A, D, E, figs. 7 and 8; it is like figs. 1 and 2, although not with such a nice
outside appearance, but a less experienced workman and with ruder tools can make it.
A stud may be fastened at each corner, on the center of outer edge, for the external
Hive Cover or shroud to rest or fasten on.
The second part, consists of a Body Box or Story, figs. 11, 12, 13, and 15, to hold
combs, bees, comb frames, or Sections for comb honey; in which on each side (shown
in A fig. 12, and on one side in C, same fig.) is a loose side Dummy or Division Board,
figs. 16, 17, and 18; each preferably formed of two pieces of board fastened together
as shown in figs. 16 and 18, fitting close from side to side, but hanging a
"Bee Space"
of about from the bottom level of box; the bottom edge of the other side, is
two bee spaces, or just double the first space from the same level; in ordinary use,
"

page_text: ;
this is filled up with a narrow piece of wood c figs. 16 and 17, a "bee space" wide,
having strips of thin metal, 7, figs. 16 and 17, nailed on one side, see fig. 17, which
are pushed between the two pieces, figs. 16 and 18, which hold it in position by
friction; or if preferred, a nail or screw may be used as well, as shown at e, e, in
fig. 18; when this strip rests on the two-bee-space side, as in fig. 16, the edges of
both are lovel when it rests on the one-bee-space side, as in fig. 18, which it will
readily do after turning round, it makes these side boards fill the Body Boxes from
side to side and from top to bottom as d, d, in fig. 15. If now the Body Box, is set
on the Floor Board (plain side up, as shown in fig. 1) and these boards are removed
from the sides, and set at equal distances from side to side and from each other, if
the Body Box holds nine frames as shown, the Body Box will be divided into three
compartments, as at d, d, fig. 15, with an entrance way to each in the Floor Board
allowing for three small colonies of bees, suitable for queen bee rearing, and which
can at any time be united into one, after closing two entrance ways and moving the
Dividing Boards to the sides, in which position, breeding is induced in the outer
combs. If the frames are fitted on the ends, with distanco regulators, as shown
in figs. 26, 27, and 28, and discribed in the third part of this invention, and with
Body Boxes of the dimensions discribed and set forth in the seventh part of this
invention; I only use eight combs, tiz two in the middle and three on each side, or
three in the middle if fancied that way, and regulate the combs as shown at A, B
fig. 25 the reason I do this is, the extra space gives me more freedom in
manipulations, and nine frames will not go in the three divisions after the two
Dividing Boards are removed from the sides. These Body Boxes are storified one on
the top of the other in use according to the strength of the stock of bees to be
accomodated as shown in figs. 11, 12, and 13. A, B, figs. 12, and 13, shows two Body
Boxes used for brood compartments; C, is the compartment for honey; D, is a
Box covered on its bottom and top with canvas, wire cloth, &c., and filled with chaff,
cork fileings, shavings, saw dust &c., of which I make no claim and is commonly
Chaff Cushion." E figs. 11, 12 and 13, is the roof, more particularly
discribed and set forth in the fifth part of this invention; F figs. 11 and 14; is a thin
wooden rim preferably about " thick, tho' no special thickness is necessary, which
I call a "Fraine Fastener"; it is covered on one side with coarse canvas, or perforated
metal, through which bees cannot pass, but sufficiently large to allow air to freely
pass; this is placed on the top of the frames as F fig. 11; the roof E is put on and
fastened to C fig. 11, ("D," having been first removed,) this again is fastened to B,
and so on to the Floor Board, with clamps shown in fig. 13; the clamps I prefer, are
commonly called "Van Deusen Hive Clamps"; one is used on each side of every
Body Box; on the back and front I place buttons f, at the corners, to keep the Body
Boxes from twisting out of square; h, shows how they turn over and rest on a nail to
be out of the way when manipulating; these buttons may be made of wood or metal,
preferably punched out of steel, and may be used for clamping the hives, instead of
the "Van Deusen." In fig. 13, the Roof E is shown clamped to the Chaff (Cushion D,
in which it is worked, except when the stock of bees, has to be sent a journey,
when D is removed and replaced by F fig. 14.
known as a
H figs. 12 and 13 is a window to enable me to see how work is progressing within ;
more particularly discribed and set forth in figs. 19 and 20; fig. 19 shows a section
view; the window is made as follows; a hole is cut in the Body Box side on a bevel
as shown in fig. 19, all round, or two opposite sides only; this hole may be square,
oblong or oval, or any other shape having a measurement longer one way than another,
so that a true circle will not do, unless the wood is cut away at two points opposite
each other, for the fastener H, fig. 20 to pass through when opening and shutting the
window; the piece which is cut out, will sink a distance in the hole it was cut out of
according to the thickness of the saw used; the side projecting inwards, is reduced
by sawing, planing or otherwise, untill it is on a level with the inside walls of the
Body Box as shown; a recess or groove l, l, fig. 19, is cut in the walls across the
narrowest part; a small hole is bored through the middle of the piece cut out; for
the peg or screw m, fig. 20 to go through; fig. 20 is the fastener; it is a flat piece of

page_text: This
metal as shown, or it may be thicker or ribbed in the mindle: a hole is bored through
the center, through which a screwed ring, commonly called a "Screw Eye" is passed,
or it may be a round knob or other handle fastened on a screw or other peg.
screw eye m, and H, fig. 20 are soldered or otherwise fastened together; thus by
taking hold of the ring, H, will be turned on its pivot m, into the grooves 1, 1, fig. 19;
the screw thread, on the screw eye, is mostly sufficient to hold the fastener secure to
the piece of wood forming the window; but, the thread may be removed, and a cap or
washer revitted on its end. The advantage of a window made this way, is, its simple
mode of construction, and the fact that the moment the Fastener has been turned
sufficiently, the window shutter can be pulled out, and after looking-through, it can
be put back and fastened, without once leaving hold of it.
I prefer to use these windows only in those Body Boxes, used exclusively as
supers for harvesting honey, particularly Sectional Comb honey, though I do not
confine myself to their use either way, as Boxes may be used as Supers, without
the windows, and Broad Boxes may be used with them in. I prefer instead of
fastening the glass for the window, to the side of the Hive Body Box wall, to fasten
it to a loose board or dummy shown in fig. 21; this is formed of one piece of wood
similar to what is used to make figs. 16 and 18; if a row of three sections are to
be worked, say 44 square, eight studs about thick, are nailed or glued to it as
at where marked "a," for the corners of the sections to rest against, and allow the
bees to get round into them; two square pieces, " thick, and 33" square, of wood,
are nailed between them as the two marked "6"; a square piece of glass the same
thickness, is cut for the middle, marked "c"; a hole is cut through the center a
little less than the glass, say about 3 square, and this piece of glass-fastened-over it,
with large flat headed- nails against the sides as shown in fig. 21. Fig. 22 shows a
sectional view across-the- glass window-marked-".c"; fig. 23 ditto. across the pieces
marked ""; fig. 24 ditto across the studs marked " a.' This window dummy is
shown in position at J, fig. 12; the two Division Boards, figs. 16 and 18, being
-showed-moved-to-one-side. It-will-now-be-seen, that when the window H, is pulled
out, a view is obtained inside the hive, as long as this Window Dummy just discribed,
is there; while if it is removed and a Division Board figs. 16 and 18, is put in its
place the Body Box remains to all intents and purposes as the Body Box A, fig. 12.
If it is intended to use four or only two sections in a row; I cut out two openings
and use two pieces of glass in the same manner and arrange the studs"
correspond. This window dummy, with or without glass, is used on one side of each
Super, and worked as the Slotted Dividers, when working Glass Sections on my first,
second, third, fourth, fifth, seventh, and eighth ways, discribed & shown hereinafter,
in the Fourth part of this invention.
وو
a," to
The Third part, of this invention consists of metal spaceing shoulders on the ends
of the frames, to space them the correct distance apart, see fig. 25; at the end of
each frame on the edge, is a Stud D, E, F, fig. 25, on the other edge, the length or
breadth of the first one from the end as A, fig. 25, are similar studs; thus the studs
of each frame interpass each other to space the frames close, as D, E, F, fig. 25;
and by turning each alternate frame round, the Studs touch each other, as B, C,
and D, fig. 25, spaceing the frames double the distance from each other. If any
intermediate distance is required, the frames are marked as A, and B, fig. 25. These
studs are made in metal, as fig. 26, cast or wrought in iron, steel, or other sutable
metal, to a thin connecting plate, as shown with a hole in the center, which is joined
to the middle of both studs; fig. 26 gives a general view, fig. 27, a sectional view,
and fig. 28, a ground plan of it; these studs I fit to the ends of each frame by sawing
a slit in the ends of each, into which I push the thin flat part, leaving the connected
studs projecting on the outside edges, as shown in fig. 25; they are further secured by a
nail or screw which passes through the center holes. Fig. 29, shows a ground plan
"of a Body Box filled with nine frames, fitted with these metal spaceing ends. I do
"not confine myself to useing. these studs, connected solely, at their diagonal corner:
as shown in figs. 26 and 28; but they may be placed opposite each other on the thin
: connecting plate as shown in fig. 30; also the plates may be plain as shown in

page_text: fig. 30, for if they fit tight in the saw cuts, they will be sufficiently fast in the
bands of most manipulators; for the same reason they may be left unnailed; I
however prefer to make the plates with holes in them, in case it should at any time
be advisable to fasten them; moreover if the pattern shown in figs. 26, 27, and 28,
are used unfastened, and it should be necessary to increase or diminish the spaceing
one half, without turning round a frame, or if the frame is turned round to still
preserve the original spaceing; these metal spaceing ends, are simply pulled out;
turned over, and put back again.
"
α,
The Fourth Part of this invention, consists of making the honey comb boxes,
0 commonly called "Sections," of four or more pieces of Glass, or of three sides of
glass and a bottom of wood, metal or other sutable material, to allow for the honey
and wax tracery to be seen. My first manner of performing this fourth part of my
invention, is as follows; an encircling thin strip of metal, the size of the section
required, the corners of which either have cross strips soldered on, or corresponding
projecting pieces are left on in the cutting, which are bent over the glass slips to
hold them in position as a, and b, fig. 31, untill the Section is filled with Comb and
honey by the bees, when they should be took off to use over again as often as
required. I prefer to make these metal Encirclers, of two very narrow strips, such
as thin wire rolled flat, and Solder on them, moderately stout, but flat cross pieces
over the corners, as in fig. 31. The four pieces of glass to fill the inside of these
Encirclers, 4" square are cut all exactly one length, if the pieces of glass are of
equal thickness, or 4" long, less the thickness of one piece of glass used, and fitted
in as shown in figs. 31 and 32; each piece of glass keeps another piece from twisting
inwards; the top picce is held up, by "b," being bent over it on one side, as
fig. 31, at one corner only. Glass Sections made in this manner are worked in the
same way on or in the hives that wooden ones are at present, in single or loose
Super Crates, if the ends of Sections are cut " or ", wider than the tops and
bottoms. When it is required to work them in Frames, I arrange them as in fig. 32;
the slips of glass are cut and arranged in the same manner, but for the middle
sections, a piece of thin metal, such as tin plate, is cut as fig. 34, and shown at B,
fig. 32, to hold the middle pieces upright; a piece at each end, of similar metal, cut
and made like fig. 33, and shown at A, fig. 32, holds the top pieces from falling
down when placed as shown; a bit of thin metal plato c, fig. 32, is nailed on the
bottom bar of the frame, opposite, each bottom corner as shown, while B, performs
the same function at each one above; only one of each is shown, so that the way
the pieces of glass are placed may be also seen. These Sections are preferably worked
with slotted and Studded Dividers, as figs. 48, 49, 51, and 52; and when filled with
honey and honeycomb, are held together afterwards by the honey and wax comb
adhereing to their sides within them. It sometimes happens, particularly if the bee-
keeper is unskillfull, or the weather turns bad, the bees occasionally, do not attach
the honey comb to the bottom side of Sections; when this occurs, the Section may
still be sent to market with a little extra care, and even if the bottom side is removed
entirely, the other three sides will be sufficient, with extra care, for all practical
purposes, though I always aim, or endeavour to have the comb well attached to all
four sides; the same applies to all my other ways of performing this fourth part of
my invention hereinafter described and set forth. When the faces are required to be
glazed in this, and all the hereinafter discribed Glass Sections, the glass is held on
either by means of gum or cement applied to the edges, where the glazing glasses
and the Sections touch, or thin wire is passed round at right angles, tieing all
together, or even twine can be used in the same manner. My second manner of
performing this fourth part of my invention is as follows; the "Key" to this way
and all the others following, will be best understood by reference to fig. 37; which
consists of an open topped, rigid woden frame, say a wooden Section, well glued and
nailed, with all the projections cut off, within which a glass Section is represented;
the top side, which may be of one piece, or divided in two, is exactly the length of
the top side; while the bottom is the shorter by just the combined thickness of the
two sides; these again, are just so much shorter as the top is thick. If now the two

page_text: 32"
sides, after the ends are cut off at true right angles, are placed in to be held from
falling inwards, by the clips a, and b; and the bottom piece is put in, it will be
found, that the two sides will stand upright, and that they cannot be twisted inwards,
as the bottom piece prevents such movement, while the outer frame, prevents all
outward movements; thus the Section will stand quite firm and true, even without a
top. A piece of wax Comb foundation may be held by pressure, between the divided
top, or fastened to it, if in one piece, as in fig. 63; if these pieces of glass, are
thus left in the frame and placed in the hive, so that the bees can fill it with honey
comb, all the four sides will be attached to the piece of honey comb within it, when
it may be took out of its frame and sent to market or the table, and the frame filled
again with slips of glass to be used over again. Fig. 38, shows the. section of a
Super, as ordinarily used; fig. 64 shows the same filled with Sections; the sides A, A,
fig. 38 holds and prevents the section glass sides from falling outwards, and studs
similar to fig. 36, fixed on the dividers, and applied to the points marked "C," from
falling inwards; d, which is a thin piece of tin plate, nicked on one edge, and bent
alternate ways as shown, can be dropped between each Section to keep the top pieces
from slipping over the adjoining Section, when only very slight guides or "starters"
are given the bees. Having now explained the "Key or principle, I will now
discribe how they may be generally carried into effect. Studs with slits in, are fixed
on the Dividers used to induce or prevent bees building uneven Combs, at the proper
distance for size of Section required, by means of the slits, as e, f, g, h, h, fig. 35
and i, i, i, and h, h, h, fig. 39. Fig. 36 shows a divided Stud g, to be used only at
the top, as e, f, g, fig. 35; it is divided, so that one half may be used at each end of
frame, and expanded in the middle to accomodate pieces of glass of different-thick-
nesses; a groove is cut in these Studs, at right angles to the slits, the width of two
pieces of glass for the central Studs, as f, fig. 35, and of one piece of glass, for the
ends, to hold the sides upright, or one may be cut in two as fig. 36 to answer all
purposes. Figs. 44 and 45, are different forms of Studs to be worked on the same
principle; the glasses are held upright between metal spring clips fig. 46, shown
fixed in position in figs. 45, 46, 44 and i, 39. Studs quite plain as fig. 43 may how-
ever be used at top and bottom, when there is a top bar, to which B, fig. 34 can be
attached as shown in position at B, figs. 55 and 57. 1 prefer to make the Sections,
one width on all four sides, as I can get the necessary "bee space" between them by
means of these Studs, which touch two Sections at each corner on one of their sides,
and the corresponding two Sections in the next row on their opposite sides; shown
more fully in fig. 64. The Section is built up thus; two pieces of glass for the sides,
rest their ends on the floor, and stand upright between the grooved Studs or clips;
the bottoms, which may be of one or two pieces of glass, wood, metal, or other
material, rest on the flat surface on the floor between the two sides, as figs. 37
and 38 the "floor" may be the bottom bar of a frame, as figs. 35, 39, and 57;
cross strips as in fig. 38, or inverted 1 suspenders, as in fig. 55; the tops, which
may be of one or two pieces of glass, fig. 37, rest their ends on the side tops,
and are kept from slipping more over one side than another, by means of a thin bit
of sheet metal, with two or more cuts in one edge, each piece of which is bent
alternate ways in the form of a T, shown at d, fig. 38; this is dropped between each
Section, to keep the tops in their place, when necessary. The Studs on each
Divider, keep the Sections it holds and those in the next row in their places untill
filled with comb and honey by the bees, which will afterwards keep or hold all the
pieces together, Glass Sections made this way, may be worked on, or in, the hives,
in the saine manner, that most wooden ones are at present. The Slotted and Studded
Dividers, previously and hereinafter mentioned, are made of rectangular pieces of
thin board or other sutable substance, preferably about "thick, of a size sutable
for the different sized Sections it is intended to use, which for the 4" square size,
is about 33" square; along each edge in the middle of the "grain" ends, a narrow
slit or groove is cut, with a thin saw, preferably a circular one, as shown in figs. 47
and 48; a narrow thin strip of metal, D, figs. 47 and 48, which may be straight
crinoline, clock spring, or other ribbon steel, or narrow strips cut off tin plate o

page_text: other sutable sheet metal; are inserted in these slits or grooves; these narrow strips
of metal, keep the wooden slab Dividers from warping and the Studs are buttoned
on them as shown at h, figs. 48, 52, 57 and 58. When very thin Dividers are
required, I cut these metal slips, wider and bend them in U shape as fig. 50, these
are then put over the wooden slabs as in fig. 49, and pressed together sufficiently to
hold by friction, or both forms may he revittel together. Studs are put on these
in the same manner, as when made like figs. 47 and 48; but the slits in the Studs,
will require cutting with a thicker saw to correspond with the extra thickness of
two pieces of metal and one of wood. Slotted Dividers, all of one piece of metal or
wood as fig. 51, are at present in public use; these I convert into slotted "Studded "
Dividers, by revitting, cementing or soldering on Studs as i, k, fig. 51; k may be
like i, but it is shown divided to work in inverted 1 rest supers. Fig. 52 shows a
Divider made for one Section only, with metal strip projecting, to show its con-
struction; fig. 57 shows a Divider for a number of Sections; the bottom strip only
is carried out and fastened to both ends of frame, the top strip, and two slabs are
shown cut away to illustrate other parts. These Studs are made about 3" square or
thick, as seen at their tops and as short as will possibly hold on the metal strips.
My third manner of performing this fourth part of my invention is as follows;
which is on the same principle as my second way; open topped frames, fig. 39, are
made by nailing strips of tin plate or other similar materiel to a bottom rail of
wood, the top end I bend at right angles, and nail on a bit of wood to rest on the
hive sido as m, figs. 39 and 42; two projecting pieces are partially cut out of the
side of each piece, which are bent at right angles outwardly, n, n, fig. 39, 40, 41,
and 42, which go in a slit, formed in the end of metal D, D, fig. 41, which run along
the edge of the wooden Divider slabs, and through the Studs, which thus buttons
the Dividers to the frame ends, figs. 39 and 41; these frames with the Studded
Dividers fastened on, enable me to lift in or out of the hive, a whole row of Sections
at once, also to fill them in the most convenient position, and then lift them into the
hive these frames, instead of having ends of thin metal, may have ends of wood,
and instead of open tops, may have bar or railed tops as figs. 55 and 57; and instead
of having a continuous bottom rail for the Sections to stand on, they may stand on
hanging metal rests, as in fig. 55; fig. 56 shows one of these hanging 1 rests;
these are made of tin plate or other sutable thin metal; the top part is put through a
slit in frame top rail and then turned down at right angles as shown in fig. 55, to
fasten it; the bottom rests, may be formed either by soldering on narrow pieces as
shown, or by folding the ends into the shape required; and instead of being supported
on the top edge of hive walls, they may either rest on the frames helow, or on a ledge
fastened to the bottom edge of hive walls, or a moveable rim or bar, placed on the
top of the frames, providing each end upright is made strong or stiff enough to resist
a pressing, instead of a pulling force; and although I prefer to make the Studs of
wood, they may be made in metal, earthenware, or other sutable materiel, or even
thin pieces of metal, bent into U form, as figs. 34, 44, 45, 46 and 59, may be used
to keep the sides upright in their places; or where the frame is only intended to hold
one Section, thin pieces of metal may be soldered, or otherwise fastened on the frame
ends to perform the same functions as shown in frame ends of figs. 37, and 55. My.
fourth manner of performing this fourth part of my invention, which is founded on
the same principles as the second and third way, is as follows. The glass sides,
instead of being held upright, by projections on the Studs, or frame top, are held up
by means of a bit of glass, wax, or other substance, cemented or stuck on the top
rail of one of the picces, forming the top, the distance of one piece of glass, forming
the Section sides, from each end, as o, o, figs. 53 and 54; it does not matter how wide,
long, or thick, these pieces may be, or at what point, or part of the top they may be
placed; they will keep the sides upright; with Sections made thus, I use Slotted
Dividers, with the plain Stud shown in fig. 43, both top and bottom, as shown on one
slab in fig. 52. Although Lillustrate this way only with one Section, they may be
worked and carried out, in all the different ways discribed in the second and third
ways, except all the Studs on the Dividers should be plain, as in fig. 43 both top and
R

page_text: bottom. My fifth manner of performing this fourth part of my invention, which is founded
on the same principles as the second, third and fourth ways, is as follows; which I
use when I want to work two or more rows of Sections in one frame, as shown in
fig. 58. A frame is divided into as many compartments as wished for; eight, is
shown in the illustration, and the Sections are built up as explained in the "Key"
though they are not shown; over each corner, small plates of metal, such as tin
plate, cut and bent like fig. 59, are fastened, as at p, p, fig. 58; only two corners are
shown covered, the others, which must be covered also, are left bare, to show the
construction more clearly; these metal plates holds the glass sides upright, and also
keeps the sides tops and bottoms of Sections true in their place. Studded and Slotted
Dividers may be used as shown; the central Studs are longer than the top and
bottom ones, and slitted or grooved at both ends; so that they will button on the
lower metal strip of upper Divider, and the upper metal strip of the lower one. When
using very small sized Sections in frames made this way. the Dividers may be
dispensed with, and the frames spaced apart by means of wide shoulders, or metal
ends, shown in figs. 26, 27, 28, and 30, and discribed in the third part of this inven-
tion. My Sixth manner of performing this fourth part of my invention, which is
founded on the same principles as the second, third, fourth and fifth ways, and is
applicable, to Sections made according to the present style of making wooden ones;
viz. with the sides one fourth of an inch or so, wider than the tops and bottoms; is
carried out or performed as follows; plain Studs about "wide as fig. 61, with a
slit in them, are stuck on plain metal or wooden Dividers, such as at present in use,
both at top and bottom, as shown in fig. 60; which shows a section of a Super Case,
with one Section and the side of another in position; these Studs as will be seen by
the illustration, support the Divider at the right distance from the bottom, also keep
the two sides upright, and keep the top and bottom pieces exactly in the middle. To-
work them, I take a Super, commonly in use, such as shown, either with wooden
strip, or inverted rests, most of which are provided with plain Dividers as shown;
I stick on the Studs fig. 61, as shown in fig. 60, and put it in-the-Super-Crate-at-the-
farthest end; I then fill in a row of Glass Sections; then I put in another Divider,
with Studs fixed on, which when pushed up against the first row of Sections, force
the tops into the center and all the sides true; I then fill in another row and repeats
the same process, untill the super is filled. In the illustration, fig. 60, the Studs are
shown holding the sides upright as well as the tops and bottoms in their places; the
sides, however, may be held upright, by the same means as I employ in my fourth,
and seventh ways, the studs only being used to keep the tops and bottoms in their
places. My Seventh manner of performing this fourth part of my invention, which
is founded on the same principles as the second, third, fourth, fifth and sixth ways
and is applicable to the second, third, fifth and sixth ways, and is the preferable in the
hands of an expert manipulator, is as follows; the glass sides instead of being held
upright by projections on the Studs or frame tops, are held upright by means of the
wax comb foundation, generally given to the bees; this, if cut to just fill the Section,
particularly at the top, and pressed between the two halves of the top bar, or top side,
will keep the sides from falling inwards; I prefer however to fasten the wax comb
foundation to a top of one piece as shown in figs. 62, and 63; when so fastened,
narrow strips as shown, may be used, or full sheets; the mode of fastening the wax
comb foundation to the glass top bars, and thickening the edge of it with wax, to
ensure the foundation being well fastened to the glass, as well as making it stronger
to hold up the sides, is fully explained & set forth hereinafter in this fourth part and
shown in figs. 69, 70, 71, and 72.
When Glass Sections are made in this manner Slotted Dividers, with plain Studs,
only should be used as shown in figs. 43, 51, and 52. My Eighth manner of
performing this fourth part of my invention, which is founded on the same principles,
as the second, third, fourth, fifth, sixth and seventh ways, and explained in the "Key,"
is applicable to the construction of fancy Glass Sections, which is carried out as
follows; the sides, tops, and bottoms, are cut and arranged as explained in the "Key,"
but they are also provided with glass on one of the two "face sides, cut to go

page_text: between the two sides, and outside of the top and bottom so that this extra glass
side, measures in height the same as the Section, and in width the same as the
inside width of it; the top and bottom sides of the Section are cut so much
narrower, to correspond with the thickness of the sheet of glass used; on one
side of this sheet, it is painted with bee's wax, after it has been heated hot enough
for the wax to adhere to it; it is then passed, while warm, through a mill or
press, to emboss this wax into the shape, size and basis of honey comb cells, but
with flat bottoms, instead of pyramidical; when this is done, I proceed as follows;
using a plain Super such as commonly used, similar to what is shown in figs. 60,
and 64; I place a Section side up to one corner, then I fix one of the embossed
wax glass sheets at right angles to it, close up against it, with its plain side next the
Super wall, I now put in a bottom piece, then two sides, then another embossed
waxed sheet of glass, then another bottom and so on untill the super is full; the tops
can be put on when the whole row is finished, as these sheets of waxed glass will keep
them upright; I now take a Divider quite plain on one side, but made on the other,
like fig. 21, the Studs of which marked "," are " thick and the slabs all of wood,
marked "b," about " thick; the Studs on this Divider are now put next the glass
Sections previously filled in, which keeps the corners in their place, to come against
which, they all must do, and they also leave an opening for the bees to get in to fill
them with honey; having now a plain wall again, Ilproceed as before untill the Super
is filled; I do not confine myself to working them this way, as hanging or standing
frames can be used as well, and the Dividers can be fastened on the frames, to ho
lifted in, or out, of the hive or super as often as wished, a whole row at a time.
Glass Sections made in this manner, have no midrib in the comb, as the bees
commence work on the embossed wax cell walls on the glass; the honey comb of a
rectangular Section is attached to five (5) sides, and only one sealed face; if properly and
skillfully performed, the honey will show through the glass sheet, that was waxed,
and embossed, like round dots of honey framed in wax; there is consequently only
one "face" to the comb when finished. To cut the pieces of glass, to make all the
Glass Sections hereinbefore discribed and set forth in this fourth part of my invention;
I make a level board as fig. 65, rabbeted on one side, to which a piece E, is nailed or
fastened, which rises above the board as shown; a very thin piece of wood or
metal F, straight on the edge, to be placed inwards on the board, is now fastened
exactly at a right angle to the piece E; this "F," piece should not be thicker than
the glass to be cut, if thinner, so much the better. Fig. 67 shows the form of guide
to cut the glass the right width; it must be perfectly parallel, and of a width to
correspond with the breadth of Section wanted; the glass to be cut, is now laid on
the board fig. 65, with one of its straight edges, (if it has one, if not, one must be
made,) close against E, and held down tight on the glass to keep it from moving,
untill a Glazier's diamond or a wheel Glass Cutter is run along its beveled edge to
cut it; this slip is now broken off, where it was cut, and the glass treated again as
before, untill only perhaps a narrow piece is left, too narrow, to be of use for a
Section side, this however will come in usefull, when the slips are to be cut up into
their right lengths; the guide to do this, is shown in H, figs. 66, and 68; which may
be of two pieces, nailed or fastened together as shown, or rabboted to correspond, it
must also be a true parallel from end to end, and of a width to correspond with the
size of Section required; if it is required to cut 44″ square Sections, it must measure
this width, with the space of the diamond or edge of wheel from the side of tool
deducted; thus, if this is just ", the guide will have to be 44" wide, from end to
end; if an oblong Section is required, say 41" by 5", another and similar Guide
Board 5" wide will be required. Fig. 68, shows the board fig. 65, covered with the
parallel glass slips marked "S;" q is a narrow piece of glass put in the rabbited
groove previously referred to, as being too narrow for a slip when cut off, this is
put in the groove first; the slips s, after their ends have been squared, if not square,
which is done by holding them close against F, and pushing them a little way under
the Guide Board H, which in its turn is held close to E untill a Wheel Glass Cutter
or diamond is run along its beveled edge on the glass, cutting it as it moves along,

page_text: when all are thus squared, they are pushed close against this piece of glass 9, which
stands above level of board, and close against the cross piece F; the Board may he
filled with strips in the same manner as shown or only one at a time treated the
Guide Board H, fig. 66, is now placed on over them and pushed up & held close
against E; the top piece or rabbet, allowing it to pass over the slips of glass q; a
Glazier's Diamond or a wheel Glass Cutter is now run along its beveled edge;
cutting all the glass slips, as it passes over them, which are broke off and pushed up
again close to slip of glass-q, and the Guide Board to E, the slips being also held
close to F. to be treated again in like manner, if long enough. These pieces will be,
thus so much shorter, as the piece of glass "q" is thick, and the pieces cut off will
be sutable to make all four sides of Glass Sections according to my first way of
making them, also the sides of all the other seven subsequent ways; if now two
pieces of similar glass slips to 9, are put in the groove, the pieces cut off will be just
right for the hottoms of all my ways, except the first if no glass is put in the groove,
the pieces cut, will be the extreme length allowed by the Guide Board H; this it will
be seen, should always be made the length of one Section side; if made for square
Sections, all the pieces cut off, (without anything in the groove) will be just right,
for the tops; if two pieces the same thickness as the glass being used, is put in the
groove, the pieces cut off will be just right for the bottoms of my second to eighth
way inclusive, of making Glass Sections; if only one slip is put in, the pieces cut
off will be just right for the two sides of my second to eight way inclusive, and all
the sides of my first plan, if the Section to be made, is square. I do not confine
myself to the exclusive use of narrow slips of glass in the grooves, against which to
push the glass slips to be cut, as slips of metal, or a moveable guide might be used;
but as narrow slips are being continuously cut off, I find them the most handy to use,
for no matter how thick, or how thin the glass may be, that is being used, one Guide
Board, will do for all, if the pieces cut off, are used to reduce the lengths of the sides
and bottoms, as discribed and set forth. If the glass to be used is of different
thicknesses, it should first be assorted into its various sizes, and each cut and used
seperately, or it will be troublesome to put the pieces in position, to form Sections
true in size & shape. To fix comb guides, or impressed bee's wax comb foundation
in the Glass Sections, discribed and set forth in this fourth part of my invention; 1
either use a top in two pieces, pressing a sheet or piece between, or use both tops and
bottoms in two pieces, in all my second to eighth ways inclusive, and pass a sheet
between both, just clear of the sides, or which I prefer, and which alone is suitable for
the first way, I use tops and bottoms of one piece, I also prefer to cut the wax
foundations, a trifle less in size than inside of Section; I now take a flat shallow
dish or other similar and sutable vessel, and melt some bees wax in it, while floating
on boiling water, or set quite level, with means of keeping it hot, such as standing on
a hot plate or over a lamp or other heater; when sufficient is melted, and leaving a
lump of wax melting to keep up the supply as fast as used, I take up the sheets of
wax foundation I have cut, and dip each edge in the wax, which being very shallow,
can only cover little more than the edge; this if properly done, prevents the bees
biting the edges away, and furnishes them with sufficient wax to fasten it all round
to Sections, as well as strengthing the foundation, which is used very thin in Sections.
I now take the tops and put them in hot water, hot enough to melt bees wax, which
I make sure of, by a little melted being always floating on the top, or I put them
edgeways on a hot iron, or other metal plate, or other heater, which is rather the
better way, when the operator is sufficiently skillfull to know the correct heat they
require, and does not get them too hot; when these tops, are all equally heated, I
take one at a time out, and after wipeing it dry-it wont require wipeing, if hented
on a hot plate I pick up one of the pieces of wax foundation with the edges thickened
with wax, as previously discribed, and press one of them on the center of the glass as
shown in fig. 63, leaving it between a guide as at t, t, fig. 72, untill it cools; in the
meantime I take another slip of glass and another sheet of wax foundation, and treat
it in the same manner, proceeding thus, untill all are done. Those that have got
cold will have the foundation firmly fastened to the glass, and can at once be fixed in

page_text: position in the Sections, leaving the sides and bottom of foundation which hangs from
the top, to be fastened by the bees. When the foundation is for Sections made in
accordance with my seventh way, 1 prefer to give the corners, intended for the top
part, an extra dip in the melted wax, which makes the foundation, just under the
glass top, of extra strength, to hold up the sides. The Guide I use to hold the
foundation in position on the glass tops, is shown in figs. 69, 70, 71 and 72.
Fig. 69 shows a front view; fig. 72 a front middle section of the same; while
fig. 7, shows a view of one end. The top slotted guide piece J, fig. 69, 70,
and 71, is a fixture, and is nailed or fastened to L, which in turn is likewise
O fastened at a true right angle to the ends M, M; this piece marked "L," and
shown in figs. 69, 70, and 71, is made as deep as possible, without touching the
piece marked "O," in figs. 70, and 71, so as to give as much side bearing as
possible to keep the foundation as straight as possible, while being held in position
on the glass slips. The slotted guide piece, marked K, fig. 69, 70 and 71, is
nailed or fastened to the piece marked "," fig. 69, 70, and 71, and is remove-
able with it; this picce O, with the slotted guides fastened on it, is screwed to N,
and M, at each end, with screws, which in the figs. 69 and 70, consists of "Screw
Eyes" v. A piece of glass or other substance, the thickness of a section side, is
put in between the piece O, and M, N, at u, and the piece O, screwed up tight; thus
when a section top is pushed between the guides marked y, fig. 72, the end will stop
against O, and be so much past L, as the glass inserted at u, is thick. The slots in
the top piece J, and the bottom piece K, I prefer to cut with a gang of circular
saws, fixed on one mandrel; pieces of board are first cut off and nailed to the
pieces L, and O, and both slotted with the same saws, and working against the same
guide, as the slots must be perpendicular of each other. After the slots are cut,
the Saw Table may be raised, or the Saws lowered, also the guide altered, so as to
cut corresponding grooves in the piece N, figs. 69 and 72; in these grooves narrow
strips of wood as y, y, fig. 72, are fixed, by friction, glue or otherwise, for the glass
slips to go between, which guides them just under the two slots, which in turn guide
and hold a sheet of wax foundation, t, t, fig. 72, correctly on its center, untill the
glass is cold, and both are firmly united. When useing this form of Guide Holder,
I first fix the wax foundation in the slots, then I lift one up a little, and push under
it a glass top bar heated as previously discribed, 1 just slightly press down the
foundation on it, and leaves it untill it gets cold; the weight of the wax sheet being
sufficient subsequent pressure, untill both are cold. These Guide Holders, may be
made larger or smaller than shown, and more than one may be used, if the glasses do
not cool fast enough for the operator.
The Fifth Part of this invention consists of a flat metal covered roof, shown at E,
figs. 11, 12, and 13, preferably of sheet zinc, made as follows; two strips of wood,
for the sides t, t, fig. 13, are fastened at the corners to two narrower back and front
pieces u, u, fig. 13; thus when the two pieces v, v, fig. 13, are put over u, on to t, t,
there is a clear opening left. On the top of the two pieces t, t, a sheet of metal is
fastened, which I prefer to cut somewhat larger than the outside of the rectangle ;
this sheet however, should be put on, before the pieces v, v. Over the two sunk
strips of wood u, u, figs. 12 and 13, and the metal sheet, two other pieces, v, v, figs. 12
and 13 are fastened, resting on the two highest strips t, t; the sheet of metal is
turned upwards, and over these two top strips v, v, and downwards over the other
two t,t. A strip of wood is fastened under each side of the metal sheet, to one of the
wood strips as at x, x, fig. 12, to keep it from touching the top of the hive, and to
allow a free current of air to pass over the tops of the frames or Sections, through the
openings formed by sinking the two sides; while by inverting the Roof, that is
turning it upside down, the metal sheet will touch them, when it is required to make
the top Story warmer, by letting the suns rays fall on it, to induce the bees to occupy
it, and still be equally rainproof both sides. When the hive is to be sent a distance
stocked with bees; the ventilating frame F', figs. 11, and 14, is put on the top of hive,
which holds down the frames in their place, by the Roof parts, x, figs. 11, and 12,
pressing on it.
J

page_text: The Sixth Part of this invention, consists in cutting the ends of each piece of wood
or board, at an angle of 45 deg., to form the rectangular corners; and down the
center of each end, inverted wedge shaped grooves are cut, fig. 73; I now make
metalic Keys, as fig. 74, cast or rolled in the form of two wedges joined at right angles
to their thin edges, and of a size to correspond with the grooves they have to fill. I
now take two pieces of wood, or board, already grooved and mitred, put their ends
together, & drive in these keys into the grooves, (which I however prefer to have
pointed a little, so that instead of pushing any timber away in their passage down the
grooves, they will bind tighter and pull the two pieces of board closer together)
treating all four corners alike, when a firm rectangular, Bee Hive Box, Super Case,
Marketing box, Transit box for appliances or produce; roof, stand, or packing box will
be formed as the case may be. I do not confine myself to any particular sized groove
or key, or thickness as these may vary according to the strength of the timber used,
or the fancy of the maker. A convenient way to make these grooves in the ends of
the wood pieces, is to first cut off the stuff square, and then pass it over a circular Saw,
set to come the proper distance above the Saw Table, as shown in the diagram fig. 75;
B, is a section of the Stuff to be grooved; A, the Guide, to hold it against to get the
correct angle and direction of the groove required, against which, both sides of the
Stuff is run, first on one side and then on the other; the bottom edge of A, is trued
off a little at right angles to the table D, D, as at t, so that when the Stuff is beld
upright against this, the Saw F, running on the spindle E, will run down the center,
as shown by the dotted lines; if now the stuff, after being sawn down the center,
while being held upright, and the outside angles, is passed over the Saw with a right
to left movement, it will cut a-groove us shown, the-narrowest part of which, will be
on a line, drawn across the Stuff from its end, at an angle of 45 deg., as shown by the
dotted lines-drawn at that angle as u,-. All that is now necessary is to cut off the
ends at an angle of 45 deg., when the mouth of the groove will be seen, the thickness
of the Saw used, and of a shape at the bottom as shown.
The Seventh Part,- of-this-invention, consists in making each Body Box,
thirteen and one half inches square or thereabouts, internally, and six inches
or thereabouts internally deep, and walls of equal thickness; so that the combs
of an upper Story, can be set at right angles, to the lower one, to give ample bee
passages through every part of the hive in winter, and still preserve the out-
side measurements of the boxes; also to enable each Body Box, or Story, to be used,
either as a breeding compartment, a surplus Super for Extracted honey, or a Surplus
Super for Comb honey in glass or wooden Sections, as occasion may require. When
useing these Boxes, storified, Honey Boards, or Queen Excluder Metal, may be placed
between the boxes set apart for honey, and those for brood, as practiced by some bee-
keepers at present; but I prefer to use a sheet of enameled cloth over the frames
instead, allowing the bees about space at the ends of the frames only, to get into
the upper boxes; for the use and application of which I make no claim.
Having now particularly discribed and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, 1 here declare that I
do not limit myself to the precise details of my invention as hereinbefore specified,
and as illustrated on the accompanying drawings, because equivalent modifications, or
variations, can be made in such details, and quite consistent with the principles or
characteristic features of my invention, and in conclusion, 1 declare that what I
claim is
1. A bee-hive Floor Board, or Bottom with three entrance ways; substantially as
discribed in the first part and shown in figs. 1, and 10.
2. An invertible bee-hive Floor Board or Bottom, substantially as discribed in the
first part and shown in figs. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and 10.
3. A regulating entrance way for bee-hives, plain or perforated, substantially as
discribed and shown at A, D, E, figs. 7, and 8.
4. A regulating entrance way, for bee-hives, plain or perforated, substantially as
discribed and shown at b, figs 7, and 9.

page_text: 5. An invertible bee-hive Floor Board or Bottom, substantially as discribed and
shown in figs. 12, 3, 4, 5, 6, and -10).
6. An invertible bee-hive Floor Board or Bottom, substantially as discribed in the
first part and shown in figs. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, and 10; combined with the entrance
regulator, substantially as discribed in the first part and shown at b, b, figs. 7 and 9.
7. A plain bee-hive Floor Board or Bottom, with three entrance ways, as shown in
figs. 1, 3, and 10; combined substantially with one or both of the Entrance regulators,
plain or perforated, discribed in the first part and shown in figs. 7, 8, and 9.
8. A Body Box or Story, substantially, as discribed in the second part and shown
in figs. 11, 12, 13, and 15, combined with a loose Side Dummy or Division Board,
regulating at the bottom, substantially as discribed in the second part and shown in
figs. 16, 17, and 18, applied to bee-hives.
9. A loose Side Dummy or Division Board, regulating at the bottom and applied to
bee-hives, substantially as discribed in the second part and shown in figs. 16, 17, and 18.
10. A Body Box, Story or Super, for bee-hives, substantially as discribed in the
second part, and shown at C, fig. 12; combined with the window H, figs. 12 and 13,
substantially as shown in figs. 19, and 20.
11. A Window for bee-hives, made substantially as discribed in the second part and
shown in figs. 19, and 20.
12. A Side, super Dummy, suspended or standing, perforated and glazed for a
window applied to bee-hives, substantially as discribed in the second part, and shown
in figs. 21, 22, and 23; but without Studs shown at "a," figs. 21, and 24.
13. A Side Super Dummy, suspended or standing, applied to bec-hives, made
substantially as discribed in the second part, and shown in figs. 21, 22, 23, & 24.
14. A Side super Dummy, or Divider. suspended or standing, made substantially
as discribed in the second part, and shown in figs. 21, 23, and 24; but unperforated,
and without the glass shown at C, fig. 21; applied to bee-hive Supers.
15. A Side Super Dummy, suspended or standing, applied to bee-hives, sub-
stantially as discribed, in the second part, and shown in figs. 21, 22, 23, and 24;
combined with the window H, figs. 12, 13, 19, and 20; as shown at J, H, fig. 12.
16. Spaceing metal shoulders on the ends of bee-hive frames, substantially as
discribed in the third part and shown in figs. 25, 26, 27, and 28, with or without the
central hole.
17. Spaceing Metal shoulders on the ends of bee-hive frames, substantially as
discribed in the third part and shown in fig. 30. .
18. The principle of constructing Honey Comb Boxes, commonly called "Sections,"
to be used in connection with bee-hives, of three or four sides of Glass, or three or
four of Glass, and one of wood, metal, or other sutable substance, held together in
their places, after being filled with honey Comb, by means of the honey and wax
honey Comb adhereing to their sides within them, and which is explained, discribed
and illustrated in the fourth part.
19. Means of holding Glass Honey Comb Sections in position, in, or on bee-hives
until they are filled with honey and honey Comb by the bees; explained, discribed and
illustrated in the fourth part.
20. The construction of Glass Honey Comb Sections to be used in connection with
bee-hives, of one width all round their three or four sides, as explained discribed and
shown in the fourth part.
21. The construction of Glass Honey Comb Sections, for bee-hives, substantially in
accordance with my first manner, discribed in the fourth part and shown in figs. 31, 32,
33, and 34.
22. The construction of Glass Honey Comb Sections, for bee-hives, substantially in
accordance with my second manner, discribed in the fourth part and shown.
23. The construction of Glass Honey Comb Sections, for bee-hives, substantially
in accordance with my third manner, discribed in the fourth part and shown.
24. The construction of Glass Honey Comb Sections, for bee-hives, substantially
in accordance with my fourth manner of making them, discribed in the fourth part
and shown.

page_text: 25. The construction of Glass Honey Comb Sections, for bee-hives, substantially in
accordance with my fifth manner of making them, discribed in the fourth part and
shown.
26. The construction of Glass Honey Comb Sections, for bee-hives, substantially in
accordance with my sixth manner of making them, discribed in the fourth part and
shown.
27. The construction of Glass Honey Comb Sections, for bee-hives, substantially in
accordance with my seventh manner of making them, discribed in the fourth part and
shown.
28. The construction of Fancy Glass Honey Comb Sections, for bee-hives,
substantially in accordance with my eighth manner of making them, discribed and set
forth in the fourth part.
29. The construction of Slotted Dividers, for use in connection with bee-hives, sub-
stantially as discribed in the fourth part of this-invention and shown in figs. 47, and 48.
30. The construction of Slotted Dividers, for use in connection with bee-hives,
substantially as discribed in the fourth part, and shown in figs. 49, and 50, of this
invention.
31. The construction of Slotted and Studded Dividers, for use in connection with
bee-hives, substantially as discribed in the fourth part of this invention and shown in
figs. 35, 39, 52, 57, 58, and fig. 49, with Studs on.
32. The conversion of metal or wooden Slotted Dividers at present used in connection
with bee-hives, into Slotted and Studded Dividers, substantially as discribed in the
fourth part of this invention and shown in fig. 51.
33. The conversion of metal or wooden Dividers at present used in connection with
bee-hives, into plain Studded Dividers, substantially as discribed in the fourth part of
this invention and shown in fig. 60.
34. The construction of the Stud, for use in connection with bee-hives, plain or
divided, substantially as discribed in the fourth part of this invention and shown
in fig. 36.
35. The construction of the Stud, with or without the U clip, for use in connection
with bee-lives, substantially as discribed, in the fourth part of this invention and
shown in fig. 45.
36. The construction of the Stud, with or without the U clip, for use in connection
with bee-hives, substantially as discribed in the fourth part, and shown in fig. 61.
37. The construction of the Stud, for use in connection with bee-hives, substantially
as described in the fourth part, and shown in fig. 61.
38. The construction of the Stud, for use in connection with bee-hives, substantially
as discribed in the fourth part, and shown in fig. 43.
39. The construction of the Section, supporting clip, for use in connection with
bee-hives, substantially as discribed in the fourth part, and shown in fig. 38.
40. The construction of the Section holding Clip, for use in connection with
bee-hives, substantially as discribed in the fourth part, and shown in fig. 34.
41. The construction of the Section holding clip, for use in connection with
bee-hives, substantially as discribed in the fourth part and shown in fig. 59.
42. The construction of Section holding frames, for use in connection with bee-hives,
with metal upright ends, substantially as discribed in the fourth part, and shown in
figs. 39, 40, 41, and 42.
43. The construction of thin Metalic Suspenders, for Honey Comb Sections, for use
in connection with bee-hives, substantially as discribed in the fourth part and shown
in figs. 55, and 56.
44. A Board on which to cut the pieces of glass, for making the Glass Sections, to
use in connection with bee-hives, with a rabbeted groove on one side, substantially as
discribed in the fourth part and shown in fig. 65.
45. A parallel Guide, for cutting off the pieces of glass the right length, to make
Glass Sections, for use in connection with bee-hives, rabbeted on one edge, substantially
as discribed in the fourth part and shown in fig. 66.
46. Making the wax Comb foundation guides or starters, for the Sections, to be used

page_text: in connection with bee-hives, thicker on the edges, by dipping their edges in shallow
melted wax, or otherwise, substantially as discribed in the fourth part, and set forth.
47. Fixing or uniting, wax Comb foundation guides or starters to pieces of glass,
for Glass Sections to be used in connection with bee-hives, by heating the glass and
holding both between a Guide untill cold, substantially as discribed in the fourth part
and set forth.
48. The construction of a Guide Holder, for holding the sheets of wax Comb
foundation on the middle of the pieces of glass, untill the glass is cold and both united
together; to be used in Glass Sections, in connection with bee-hives, substantially as
discribed in the fourth part and shown in figs. 69, 70, 71, and 72.
49. The construction of a flat, invertible, metal Covered Roof, for use on bee-hives,
substantially as discribed in the fifth part and shown at E, figs. 11, 12, and 13.
50. A ventilating frame fastener F, figs. 11, and 14; used on bee-hives, during
removal from one place to another, in combination with the Roof E, figs. 11, 12
and 13, substantially as discribed in the fifth part, and shown in above figs.
51. Cutting the ends of pieces of wood or board for bee-hive walls, marketing
boxes &c. at an angle of 45 deg., and grooving the ends as at fig. 73, and afterwards
united together by metal keys, fig. 74, of the form of two wedges, joined at their thin
edges, substantially as discribed in the sixth part and shown in figs. 73, and 74.
52. Grooving the ends of pieces of wood or board for bee-hive walls, marketing
boxes &c., before their ends are cut off, at an angle of 45 deg.; substantially as
discribed in the sixth part and shown in the diagram fig. 75.
53. Making the Body Boxes or Stories of bee-hives, thirteen and one half inchies
square, or thereabouts internally, and six inches more or less deep, and walls of equal
thickness, substantially as discribed in the seventh part, and set forth.
Dated this 22nd day of February 1889