IMPROVE- MENTS IN SEWING MACHINES
Year: 1880

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Edward Thomas Hughes, of the Firm of Hughes and Son,
Patent Agents, 123, Chancery Lane, London, for an Invention of "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN SEWING MACHINES." A communication from abroad by Nathan
Adolphus Baldwin, of Milford, County of New Haven and State of Con-
necticut, United States of America.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Edward Thomas Hughes at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 29th January 1880.
EDWARD THOMAS HUGHES, of the Firm of Hughes and Son, Patent Agents,
123, Chancery Lane, London. "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES." A com-
munication from abroad by Nathan Adolphus Baldwin, of Milford, County of New
Haven, and State of Connecticut, United States of America.
This Invention relates to improvements in that class of sewing machines designed
to use waxed thread, and with special reference to machines for sewing boots and
shoes, and the Invention consists in the construction and combination of parts as
hereinafter described.
On the accompanying Sheets of Drawings Figure 1 is a side view, Figure 2 a
top or plan view, Figures 3 to 20 inclusive detached view.
In the construction shown the needle is arranged to move in a horizontal plane.
A is the bed of the machine; B, an upright at one end, on which the needle and
feeding mechanism are arranged; B₁, an upright at the other end, on which the
second thread carrier and waxing mechanism are arranged.
The driving shaft is arranged longitudinally within the bed, as indicated in
broken lines Fig. 1, and to which power is applied through a pulley C or otherwise,
and the shaft can also be provided with a fly wheel C¹. Through the upright Ba
vertical shaft D, seen in broken lines, Fig. 1, is arranged, and to which a rotary
movement is imparted by means of bevilled gears, as also seen in broken lines,
Fig. 1. On the upper end of the shaft D a rotary plate D¹ is arranged, and from
this a pitman D' connects with the needle bar D³, so that as the plate D¹ revolves
a reciprocating movement is imparted to the needle. The needle movement here
shown is of a peculiar character, but constitutes no part of this Invention, having
C
.
70 71

page_text: already been described and claimed by me in Letters Patent of the United States,
dated Sept. 17th, 1867, No. 68,835.
At the opposite end and through the upright B¹ a similar shaft E receives rotary
movement in like manner from the driving shaft, as seen in broken lines, and on
the upper end of the shaft E is a plate E' revolving with the shaft, and from
which movement is imparted to the shuttle carrier F by a connecting rod E³, the
shuttle carrier oscillates on a fixed centre a. The shuttle race F¹ is circular in
form and in it the shuttle F2 is arranged, and so that the full rotation of the
plate E imparts an oscillating or reciprocating movement to the shuttle in a
circular path, the needle entering the shuttle race below the shuttle, and through
an opening a¹ in the side of the race, as seen in Fig 3, the operation of the needle
and shuttle being similar to that of common needle and shuttle, and so that the
thread of the shuttle inter-laces with the thread of the needle.
Inside the shuttle race is the wax reservoir G, see Fig. 3. Beneath this reservoir
is the heating chamber b.
The apparatus for supplying heat to the chamber b is seen in Figs. 3 and 4.
G¹ is the reservoir or fountain supplied with water; from this a tube G² leads
downward, thence through G³ to a coil G, thence continuing through G³ to the
heating chamber b; from the said chamber b a returning tube Go leads back to the
fountain. Beneath the coil a gas burner or other heater G' is arranged so that
the heat is applied to the coil to warm the water to any desired degree, causing it
to circulate from the fount to the heating chamber and return, thus keeping a
constant circulation of hot water beneath the wax reservoir G. To allow the
escape of steam from the chamber, should any be generated, a tube G8 leads from
the chamber outward and upward, turns into the reservoir, as seen in Figure 4.
The wax is supplied to the reservoir G, and when in use is heated so as to be
always in a melted condition.
Above the reservoir G is a longitudinal shaft H, from which a reciprocating
movement is imparted by means of an eccentric or cam shaped groove h, on the
under face of the plate E¹. To this groove a stud h¹ extends from a longitudinal
slide H¹, which is coupled with the shaft H by means of a stud h² in a spiral
groove h³.
From the shaft H a stud h extends upward through a slot in the guide above,
see Fig. 2; the slot h³, see Fig. 2, terminates at the forward end in a transverse
slot ; the result of this arrangement is that as the slide H' is moved forward it
carries with it the shaft H until it comes to the end of the longitudinal slot h³,
Fig. 2, then the shaft H will be arrested, but the slide H¹ continues to move
forward, and because of the spiral shaped groove h³, Fig. 3, the stud he will at that
point impart a partial rotation to the shaft H, and returning, the slide H' will first
return the shaft H through the transverse groove h°; then bring the said shaft H
back to its first position, as seen in Fig. 3; the extreme advanced position of the
shaft H is shown in Fig. 6, the extreme rear position shown in Fig. 3, and inter-
mediate in Fig. 5.
On the outer end of the shaft H is a hook h'.
The forward movement of the shaft H occurs before the advance of the shuttle,
and while the needle is at its most advanced position.
.
The needle D' is shown in this position in Fig. 6. In this position the hook
enters between the thread and the needle on the upper side and engages the thread,
so that when the hook retreats it carries the loop of the needle thread with it over
the wax reservoir, the shuttle then passes through the loop thus held by the
hook h, and while it is thus held wax from the reservoir is applied to the thread
held by the hook by means of a spoon or lifter L which when the shaft H advances
drops into the wax, and as it returns rises to meet the hook, taking wax from the
reservoir and applying it to the thread; the operation of this spoon is best produced
by the movement of a shaft, and to this end a rock shaft L1, Fig. 6, is arranged
parallel with the shaft H, and from it an arm L' extends partially over the slot h³,

page_text: through which the stud h* passes. The under side of this arm L' is clearly seen in
Fig. 3, and rests on the stud h, and so that when the shaft H is in its rear position
the arm L will be elevated, as also the spoon L, but as the shaft H advances the
arm L falls off from the stud, because of the incline upon its under side, as seen in
Fig. 3, which allows the rock shaft L' to turn and depress the spoon L into the
wax, this depression being produced by a spring applied to the rock shaft.
To ensure the engagement of the hook with the loop a pair of fingers n, n, are
arranged upon a lever N, the said lever lung at n', see Fig. 1, and extending to
the rear receives a vibratory movement from a cam N5, which lowers and raises
the fingers, say as from the position in Fig. 5 to that seen in Fig. 6, and this
depression occurs while the needle is in its most advanced position, see Fig. 6.
These fingers in their normal condition are closed sufficient to take the thread, as
seen in Figs. 5 and 7, and are made with inclines n upon their inner surface.
Between these fingers a projection n³ extends, and which lies stationary in the
path of the inclines n². As the fingers descend from the position in Fig. 7 to that
in Fig. 8 the inclines n² pass onto the projection n³ which forces the lower end of
the fingers apart, as seen in Fig. 8, one each side the needle; then the fingers rise
before the hook h' begins to turn, and in rising grasp the thread that lies upon the
top of the needle and raises it, as seen in Fig. 5, so that the hook 7 is sure to pass
within the loop and take the thread. This raising of the loop is also advantageous
in that it ensures the passage of the shuttle through it, whereas if the thread were
not thus raised the shuttle might not pass through the loop.
After the thread has been thus waxed, the shuttle advancing naturally takes the loop
from the hook; but to ensure the proper removal of the loop from the hook a finger n*
is attached to the shuttle carrier, as seen in Fig. 9, which runs in close proximity to
the hook and forces the loop from the hook before the shuttle shall have passed fully
through the loop. After drawing up the stitch and before the needle begins to advance,
or while it is advancing, it is desirable to take the thread between the needle and the
shuttle out of the way, to prevent possibility of its looping around the needle or
otherwise obstructing the work; to this end a lever P is hung, preferably on the
presser-foot arm P¹, and to this lever a vertical vibratory movement is imparted
by the needle arm to turn it down from the position seen in broken lines, Fig. 10,
to the position in solid lines and return. The forward end of this arm forms sub-
stantially a pair of nippers, that is to say, on the side of the lever P there is a thin
plate spring P2, and the ends of both the lever and spring turn downward, as
seen in Figs. 11 and 12, Fig. 11 showing a top view of the lever, and Fig. 12 an
end view. The space between the spring P2 and the end of the lever is directly
over the thread when drawn taut. As the needle arm returns and draws the
thread taut the end of the lever is turned down, as seen in Fig. 10, striking the
thread between the needle and shuttle forces the spring away, causing the spring
and end of the lever to embrace the thread like a pair of nippers, then as the
needle advances the lever returns and raises the thread within the grasp of the
nippers until the advancing needle forces it from the grasp again.
It is preferable to arrange the lever P on the presser-foot in order that it may
move to and from the work with it; but the time for the operation of the lever P
or its nippers must always be the same relatively to the movement of the needle;
to accomplish this object a lever R is hung to the end of the bed supporting the
needle mechanism, as seen in Figs. 2 and 13; this extends from its pivot to
beneath the lever P, and forms a long surface on which the rear end of the said
lever may ride, the end of the lever R is inclined to the path of the needle, as seen
in Fig. 10, and on the needle bar is a stud or projection 72 on which the end of the
needle bar rests, as also seen in Fig. 10, and so soon as the needle begins to move
forward the incline on the lever R rides down, as indicated in broken lines, causing
the forward end of the lever to rise by the force of the spring R¹ bearing thereon,
and when the needle bar returns the stud 2 will strike the incline on the lever R
and cause it to rise, raising the rear end and depressing the forward end of the

page_text: lever P, as and for the purpose before described. The top or surface of the lever R is
long enough to allow the lever P to be moved forward or back with the presser foot,
and so that the lever R always acts upon the lever P irrespective of its position.
S is the feed dog which terminates in a point or awl S', see Fig. 2, which has
imparted to it a movement to and from the work, and also forward and back, and
so that advancing to the work the point enters the work sufficiently to make its
hold firm or partially, or may entirely puncture the work for the entrance of the
needle, and then advancing takes the work with it. The means for imparting
these movements to the feed is shown enlarged in Fig. 14, side view, and Fig. 15,
plan view. The feed S is attached to the feed bar S, and this bar extends back
and turns in rear of the shaft D, and there engages with a groove in the side of
the cam disc S³, provided with cam groove by means of the stud S'; this stud
working through a alot S in the frame receives at that point a reciprocating
movement only, and that in a radial line from the shaft.
The feed bar lies in a groove S6 in the frame, which is wider than the bar so as to
allow of a horizontal or transverse movement, the cam S³ only imparting the
longitudinal movement to the bar, and which carries the point S₁ to and from the
work.
To impart the transverse or forward and back movement and regulate the same,
a lever T is arranged below the groove Se and extends back, engaging with a groove
in the underside of the cam S³ at a point at the side of the shaft D, and so that the
groove will move the said lever T at that point transversely toward and from the
shaft. To retain this lever in its position and prevent longitudinal movement,
the lever is offset so as to form an angular portion T¹; this part T¹ lies in a
transverse slot in the frame which allows of its free movement transversely but
confines it longitudinally; this is necessitated because the fulcrum t is adjustable
longitudinally; the other end of the lever T engages with the feed bar S2, as shown
in Figs. 14 and 15, the lever T therefore turning on its fulcrum t will, with its
connection with the feed bar S, impart to the said bar a vibratory or forward
and back movement necessary to produce the feed. The fulcrum t consists of a
bolt, the head of which forms the fulcrum t, and lies freely in a slot T2 in the
frame, and extends down through a longitudinal slot T3 in the lever T, and
on the under side of the lever is a nut T which binds the fulcrum or head t fast to
the lever T. It will be evident that as the fulcrum is moved nearer to or farther
from the point where the lever Tengages with the feed bar S2 will proportionately
shorten or lengthen the movement of the feed. In such adjustment it is necessary
that the feed bar should at all times reach the same point forward, that is so that
the puncture made by the point will always be presented into the path of the
needle, and a variation be made only in the extent of its rear movement; it is
therefore necessary that the slot T' in the frame and the slot T3 in the lever should
be in the same line when the feed is in its most forward position, as seen in Fig. 15,
the two slots there shown in broken lines and the line of the slot at that point must
be parallel with the line drawn from the point where the lever engages with the
cam to the point where it engages with the feed bar. As here shown the slot T2 in
the frame is inclined to the central line of the feed bar, and this is generally
preferable because it enables the arrangement of the parts in a more compact or
narrow space and also makes the action more direct.
In Fig. 16 is shown a view of the needle on the underside; Fig. 17, a view on
the upper side; and Fig. 18, a longitudinal section. On the underside of the needle
is a longitudinal groove e through which the thread passes to the eye e'. This eye
instead of being at right angles as in usual constructions is diagonal, as seen in
Fig. 18, and produces substantially a tubular eye running from the groove e in rear
of the eye to a spiral groove e2 forward of the eye, as seen in Fig. 17. This
diagonal or tubular eye renders the needle stronger than when made at right angles,
as seen in the usual construction, in addition to the advantage of very much
reducing the cutting strain upon the thread at the eye.

page_text: The object of making the groove forward of the eye in a spiral form instead of
longitudinal, as in the usual construction, is to prevent cutting the thread in the
passage of the needle through the leather.
The thread being necessarily large the groove must be of corresponding size. In
the use of a needle having a longitudinal groove it is found that in piercing the
leather, and on the return of the needle, that portion of the leather over the groove
will press down into the groove and upon the thread, creating an increased strain
upon the thread, and consequently the liability of cutting or breaking by making
the groove spiral, as seen in Fig. 17, this difficulty is avoided because the spiral line
of the groove will force outward that portion of the leather which would naturally
fall into the groove and thus produce a round hole instead of a hole with a "tongue,"
as in a straight groove, and also allows the thread to draw in nearly a straight line
to the axis of the needle.
Instead of the shuttle it will be understood that other devices may be applied, as
for instance, to produce a chain stitch, using only the needle thread, but in that
case the same relative position of the wax reservoir must be maintained.
It will be understood that the parts of the machine are made adjustable, and
that it is provided with the usual thread tension.
The jack for holding the shoe is shown in Fig. 1, and in detail Figs. 19
and 20.
This consists of a carriage d, on which clamping devices d¹ and d³ are arranged
to securely grasp and hold the boot or shoe; this carriage is made to move longi-
tudinally on a guide d³, see Fig. 19, and this guide is hung up by a ball joint de to
a head ; this head is rounded upon its face next the guide d³, but is longitu-
dinally straight. This allows the carriage d to be rocked on the said head in a
direction transverse to the said head, and the ball joint allows the carriage to be
turned in a horizontal plane entirely round if necessary, and at the same time may
be rocked over the head. This head is adjustable to different inclinations by being
bung to a block de, from which a spindle extends downward provided with a set
nut d³, and between which and the head d' is a socket d³, and so that the nut
bearing against the socket forces it hard against the head, and so as to clamp it at
any angle to which it may be set, and this angle defines the position at which the
sole of the shoe shall be presented to the needle, and maintains the same angle at
all points around the sole. The spindle d' is arranged in a socketed bar d¹º, pro-
vided with a set screw d¹¹, by means of which the elevation of the head may be
adjusted, or the head set any desirable elevation to adapt the jack to various
sizes and classes of work; and that the jack may be always held up to its work
the socket do passes between longitudinal guides r, r, and is supported on one end
by a lever, to the other end of which a spring or weight is applied, the tendency
of which is to force the jack upward, so that if the shoe is moved to different
points in the sole those points will be held with the same force against the presser-
foot.
At the time the stitch is to be taken it is desirable that the jack should be
firmly held to this end a shaft is arranged parallel with the guides r, and to
which a rocking movement is imparted by means of a cam on the shaft D. In
the guider next the shaft is a slide or clamp 7, seen in Fig. 20, which is a
horizontal section through the guides r, showing the slotted plate which forms the
clamp, and on the shaft rare cams 6, which as the shaft rocks in one direction
force the clamp against the socket (0, and clamp it immovably against the
opposite guide, and on returning the shaft releases the clump, leaving the socket
free. This clamping movement just before the needle enters the work, and the
releasing immediately after the needle leaves the work, so that during the time
the needle is in the work the head is securely held, except as for its rocking position,
that being governed by the hand of the operator.
It will be observed that the pressure which holds the shoe up to the work is
because of the rocking and sliding movement of the jack always directly or nearly

page_text: in line with the upward pressure, that is, over the point of connection between the
lever and the socket d¹º. This direction of pressure remains constant at around
the shoe as presented to the needle; consequently the indirect strain upon the jack
or shoe found in the usual construction is avoided, and the operator has nothing to
do but simply guide the shoe, the holding and the proper relative position being
produced by the movement of the jack. At the toe end of the jack a stop u is
arranged, so that when the toe is reached the said stop will bring up against the
end of the guide d³; then the stitching around the toe is done by simply turning
the jack on its joint d', and with a slight rocking motion the stitching around the
toe is produced as if the jack were hung upon substantially a fixed centre, pro-
ducing more perfect work than when the guides at the needle are relied upon, as in
the usual arrangement of holding jacks.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said Edward Thomas Hughes in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 29th
July 1880.
EDWARD THOMAS HUGHES, of the Firm of Hughes and Son, Patent Agents, 123,
Chancery Lane, London. "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES." A communica-
tion from abroad by Nathan Adolphus Baldwin, of Milford, County of Newhaven
and State of Connecticut, United States of America.
This Invention relates to improvements in that class of sewing machines designed
to use wax thread, and with special reference to machines for sewing boots and shoes,
and the Invention consists in the construction and combination of parts as herein-
after described, and more particularly recited in the claims.
On the accompanying Sheets of Drawings Figure 1 is a side view, Figure 2 a
top or plan view, Figures 3 to 20 inclusive detached views.
In the construction shown the needle is arranged to move in a horizontal plane.
A is the bed of the machine; B, an upright at one end, on which the needle and
feeding mechanism are arranged; B¹, an upright at the other end, on which the second
thread carrier and waxing mechanism are arranged. The driving shaft is arranged
longitudinally within the bed, as indicated in broken lines, Fig. 1, and to which
power is applied through a pulley C or otherwise, and the shaft can also be provided
with a fly wheel C¹. Through the upright B a vertical shaft D, seen in broken
lines Fig. 1, is arranged, and to which a rotary movement is imparted by means of
bevilled gears, as also seen in broken lines, Fig. 1. On the upper end of the shaft D
a rotary plate D¹ is arranged, and from this a pitman D³ connects with the needle
bar D³, so that as the plate D³ revolves, a reciprocating movement is imparted to the
needle. The needle movement here shown is of a peculiar character, but constitutes
no part of this Invention, having already been described and claimed by me in
Letters Patent of the United States, dated Sept. 17th, 1867, No. 68,835. At the
opposite end, and through the upright B₁ a similar shaft E receives rotary move-
inent in like manner from the driving shaft, as seen in broken lines, and on the
upper end of the shaft E is a plate E¹ revolving with the shaft, and from which,
movement is imparted to the shuttle carrior F by a connecting rod E2, the shuttle
carrier oscillates on a fixed centre a. The shuttle race F' is circular in form, and
in it the shuttle F³ is arranged, and so that the full rotation of the plate E' imparts
an oscillating or reciprocating movement to the shuttle in a circular path, the
needle entering the shuttle race below the shuttle, and through an opening a¹ in
the side of the race, as seen in Fig. 3, the operation of the needle and shuttle being
similar to that of common needle and shuttle, and so that the thread of the shuttle
inter-laces with the thread of the needle. Inside the shuttle race is the wax
reservoir G, see Fig. 3. Beneath this reservoir is the heating chamber b. The
apparatus for supplying heat to the chamber b is seen in Figs. 3 and 4.
G¹ is the reservoir or fountain supplied with water; from this a tube G' leads down-
ward, thence through G³ to a coil G, thence continuing through G5 to the heating b;
from the said chamber b a returning tube G° leads back to the fountain. Beneath
the coil a gas burner or other heater G7 is arranged so that the heat is applied to
the coil to warm the water to any desired degree, causing it to circulate from the
fount to the heating chamber and return, thus keeping a constant circulation of hot
water beneath the wax reservoir G. To allow the escape of steam from the chamber,
should any be generated, a tube G8 leads from the chamber outward and upward,
turns into the reservoir, as seen in Fig. 4. The wax is supplied to the reservoir
G, and when in use is heated so as to be always in a melted condition. Above the
reservoir G is a longitudinal shaft H, from which a reciprocating movement is
imparted by means of an eccentric or cam shaped groove h on the under face of the

page_text: plate E. To this groove a stud h' extends from a longitudinal slide H' which is
coupled with the shaft H by means of a stud h² in a spiral groove h³. From the
sbaft H a stud h extends upward through a slot h³ in the guide above, see Fig. 2;
the slot, see Fig. 2, terminates at the forward end in a transverse slot he; the
result of this arrangement is, that as the slide H' is moved forward it carries with
it the shaft H until it comes to the end of the longitudinal slot h, Fig. 2, then the
shaft H will be arrested, but the slide H continues to move forward, and because
of the spiral shaped groove h³, Fig. 3, the stud h³ will at that point impart a partial
rotation, to the shaft H, and returning the slide H¹, will first return the shaft H
through the transverse groove hº, then bring the said shaft H back to its first
position. as seen in Fig. 3; the extreme advanced position of the shaft H is shown in
Fig. 6, the extreme rear position shown in Fig. 3, and intermediate in Fig. 5.
On the outer end of the shaft H is a hook 7. The forward movement of the shaft H
occurs before the advance of the shuttle, and while the needle is at its most advanced
position. The needle D is shown in this position in Fig. 6. In this position the
hook enters between the thread and the needle on the upper side, and engages the
thread, so that when the hook retreats it carries the loop of the needle thread
with it over the wax reservoir, the shuttle then passes through the loop thus
held by the hook h', and while it is thus held, wax from the reservoir is
applied to the thread held by the hook, by means of a spoon or lifter
L, which when the shaft H advances, drops into the wax, and as it returns
rises to meet the hook taking wax from the reservoir, and applying it to the
thread; the operation of this spoon is best produced by the movement of a
shaft, and to this end a rock shaft L, Fig. 6, is arranged parallel with the shaft H,
and from it an arm L³ extends partially over the slot ho through which the stud h
passes. The underside of this arm L³ is clearly seen in Fig. 3, and rests on the stud
h, and so that when the shaft H is in its rear position, the arm L² will be elevated,
as also the spoon L; but as the shaft H advances the arm L falls off from the stud
because of the incline upon its under side, as seen in Fig. 3, which allows the rock
shaft L to turn and depress the spoon L into the wax, this depression being
produced by a spring applied to the rock shaft. To insure the engagement of the
hook with the loop, a pair of fingers n, n, are arranged upon a lever N, the said
lever hung at n¹, see Fig. 1, and extending to the rear receives a vibratory
movement from a cam N³, which lowers and raises the fingers, say, as from the
position in Fig. 5, to that seen in Fig. 6, and this depression occurs whilst the
needle is in its most advanced position, see Fig. 6. These fingers in their normal
condition are closed sufficient to take the thread, as seen in Figs. 5 and 7, and are
made with inclines n³ upon their inner surface. Between these fingers a projection
n³ extends, and which lies stationary in the path of the inclines n². As the fingers
descend from the position in Fig. 7 to that in Fig. 8, the inclines n' pass onto the
projection n³, which forces the lower end of the fingers apart, as seen in Fig. 8, one
each side the needle, then the fingers rise before the hook 7 begins to turn, and in
rising grasp the thread that lies upon the top of the needle and raises it, as seen in
Fig. 5, so that the book h7 is sure to pass within the loop and take the thread.
This raising of the loop is also advantageous in that it ensures the passage of the
shuttle through it, whereas if the thread were not thus raised, the shuttle might
not pass through the loop. After the thread has been thus waxed, the shuttle
advancing naturally takes the loop from the hook, but to ensure the proper
removal of the loop from the Book, a finger n' is attached to the shuttle carrier, as
seen in Fig. 9, which runs in close proximity to the hook, and forces the loop from
the hook before the shuttle shall have passed fully through the loop. After drawing
up the stitch, and before the needle begins to advance, or while it is advancing, it
is desirable to take the thread between the needle and the shuttle out of the way,
to prevent possibility of its looping around the needle, or otherwise obstructing the
work; to this end a lever P is hung preferably on the presser-foot arm P', aud to
this lever a vertical vibratory movement is imparted by the needle arm to turn it

page_text: down from the position seen in broken lines, Fig. 10, to the position in solid lines
and return. The forward end of this arm forms substantially a pair of nippers,
that is to say, on the side of the lever P there is a thin plate spring P2, and the
ends of both the lever and spring turn downward, as seen in Figs. 11 and 12,
Fig. 11 showing a top view of the lever, and Fig. 12 an end view. The space
between the spring P2 and the end of the lever is directly over the thread when
drawn taut. As the needle arm returns and draws the thread taut, the end of the
lever is turned down, as seen in Fig. 10, striking the thread between the needle
and shuttle forces the spring away, causing the spring and end of the lever to
embrace the thread like a pair of nippers, then as the needle advances, the lever
returns and raises the thread within the grasp of the nippers, until the advancing
needle forces it from the grasp again. It is preferable to arrange the lever P
on the presser-foot, in order that it may move to and from the work with it,
but the time for the operation of the lever P, or its nippers, must always be the
same relatively to the movement of the needle. To accomplish this object, a lever R
is hung to the end of the bed supporting the needle mechanism, as seen in Figs. 2
and 13; this extends from its pivot r to beneath the lever P, and forms a long surface
on which the rear end of the said lever may ride, the end of the lever R is
inclined to the path the needle, as seen in Fig. 10, and on the needle bar is
a stud or projection ³, on which the end of the needle bar rests, as also seen in
Fig. 10, and so soon as the needle begins to move forward, the incline on the lever R
rides down, as indicated in broken lines, causing the forward end of the lever to
rise by the force of the spring R' bearing thereon, and when the needle bar returns
the stud will strike the incline on the lever R and cause it to rise, raising the
rear end and depressing the forward end of the lever P, as and for the purpose
before described. The top or surface of the lever R is long enough to allow the
lever P to be moved forward or back with the presser-foot, and so that the lever R
always acts upon the lever P, irrespective of its position. S is the feed dog
which terminates in a point or awl S¹, see Fig. 2, which has imparted to it a
movement to and from the work, and also forward and back, and so that
advancing to the work, the point enters the work sufficiently to make its hold
firm or partially, or may entirely puncture the work for the entrance of the
needle, and then advancing, takes the work with it. The means for imparting
these movements to the feed is shown enlarged in Fig. 14, side view, and Fig. 15
plan view. The feed S is attached to the feed bar S, and this bar extends back
and turns in rear of the shaft D, and there engages with a groove in the side of
the cam disc S³ provided with cam groove by means of the stud S. This stud
working through a slot S5 in the frame receives at that point a reciprocating
movement only, and that in a radial line from the shaft. The feed bar lies in a
groove Se in the frame, which is wider than the bar so as to allow of a horizontal
or transverse movement, the cam S3 only imparting the longitudinal_movement to
the bar, and which carries the point S to and from the work. To impart the
transverse or forward and back movement, and regulate the same, a lever T is
arranged below the groove S, and extends back, engaging with a groove in the
underside of the cam S³ at a point at the side of the shaft D, and so that the groove
will move the said lever T at that point transversely toward and from the shaft.
To retain this lever in its position and prevent longitudinal movement, the lever is
offset so as to form an angular portion T"; this part T¹ lies in a transverse slot in
the frame, which allows of its free movement transversely, but confines it longi-
tudinally; this is necessitated because the fulcrum t is adjustable longitudinally.
The other end of the lever T engages with the feed bar S2, as shown in Figs. 14
and 15, the lever T therefore turning on its fulcrum t will, with its connection with
the feed bar S, impart to the said bar a vibratory or forward and back movement
necessary to produce the feed. The fulcrum t consists of a bolt, the head of which
forms the fulcrum t, and lies freely in a slot T2 in the frame, and extends down
through a longitudinal slot T³ in the lever T, and on the under side of the lever is

page_text: '
a nut T which binds the fulcrum or head t fast to the lever T. It will be evident
that as the fulcrum is moved nearer to or further from the point where the lever T
engages with the feed bar S2 will proportionately shorten or lengthen the move-
ment of the feed. In such adjustment it is necessary that the feed bar should at
all times reach the same point forward, that is, so that the puncture made by the
point will always be presented into the path of the needle, and a variation be made
only in the extent of its rear movement; it is therefore necessary that the slot T
in the frame, and the slot Ts in the lever should be in the same line when the feed
is in its most forward position, as seen in Fig. 15; the two slots there shown in
broken lines, and the line of the slot at that point must be parallel with the
line drawn from the point where the lever engages with the cam to the point
where it engages with the feed bar. As here shown the slot T in the frame
is inclined to the central line of the feed bar, and this is generally preferable
because it enables the arrangement of the parts in a more compact or narrow
space, and also makes the action more direct. In Fig. 16 is shown a view of
the needle on the underside; Fig. 17, a view on the upper side; and Fig. 18, a
longitudinal section. On the under side of the needle is a longitudinal groove c
through which the thread passes to the eye e¹; this eye instead of being at right
angles, as in usual constructions, is diagonal, as seen in Fig. 18, and produces
substantially a tubular eye running from the groove e in rear of the eye to a
spiral groove e² forward of the eye, as scen in Fig. 17. This diagonal or
tubular eyo renders the needle stronger than when made at right angles, as in
usual construction, in addition to the advantage of very much reducing the cutting
strain upon the thread at the eye. The object of making the groove forward of the
eye in a spiral form instead of longitudinal, as in the usual construction, is to
prevent cutting the thread in the passage of the needle through the leather. The
thread being necessarily large the groove must be of corresponding size. In the
use of a needle having a longitudinal groove, it is found that in piercing the
leather, and on the return of the needle, that portion of the leather over the groove
will press down into the groove, and upon the thread, creating an increased strain
upon the thread, and consequently the liability of cutting or breaking by making
the groove spiral, as seen in Fig. 17; this difficulty is avoided because the spiral
line of the groove will force outward that portion of the leather which would
naturally fall into the groove, and thus produce a round hole instead of a hole with
a "tongue," as in a straight groove, and also allows the thread to draw in nearly
a straight line to the axis of the needle. Instead of the shuttle it will be under-
stood that other devices may be applied, as for instance, to produce a chain stitch,
using only the needle thread; but in that case the same relative position of the
wax reservoir must be maintained. It will be understood that the parts of the
machine are made adjustable, and that it is provided with the usual thread tension.
The jack for holding the shoe is shown in Fig. 1, and in detail Figs. 19 and 20;
this consists of a carriage d on which clamping devices and are arranged to
securely grasp and hold the boot or shoe; this carriage is made to move longi-
tudinally on a guide ³, see Fig. 19, and this guide is hung by a ball joint d to a
bead d; this head is rounded upon its face next the guide d³, but is longitudinally
straight; this allows the carriage d to be rocked on the said head in a direction
transverse to the said head, and the ball joint allows the carriage to be turned
in a horizontal plane entirely round if necessary, and at the same time may be
rocked over the head. This head is adjustable to different inclinations by being
hung to a block d, from which a spindle d' extends downward provided with
a set nut ds, and between which and the head d is a socket d, and so that the
nut bearing against the socket forces it hard against the head, and so as to
clamp it at any angle to which it may be set, and this angle defines the
position at which the sole of the shoe shall be presented to the needle and maintains
the same angle at all points around the sole. The spindle d' is arranged in a
socketed bar do provided with a set screw d", by means of which the elevation of

page_text: the head may be adjusted, or the head set any desirable elevation to adapt the
jack to various sizes and classes of work; and that the jack may be always held up
to its work the socket do passes between longitudinal guides r, r, and is supported
on one end by a lever 1, to the other end of which a spring or weight is applied,
the tendency of which is to force the jack upward so that if the shoe is moved to
different points in the sole those points will be held with the same force against
the presser-foot. At the time the stitch is to be taken it is desirable that the jack
should be firmly held; to this end a shaft 3 is arranged parallel with the guides r,
and to which a rocking movement is imparted by means of a cam 7 on the shaft D.
In the guider next to the shaft is a slide or clamp 5, seen in Fig. 20, which is
a horizontal section through the guides r, showing the slotted plate which forms
the clamp, and on the shaft are cams which, as the shaft rocks in one
direction, force the clamp against the socket do and clamp it immovably against
the opposite guide, and on returning the shaft releases the clamp, leaving the
socket free; this clamping movement just before the needle enters the work, and
the releasing immediately after the needle leaves the work, so that during the time
the needle is in the work the head is securely held, except as for its rocking position,
that being governed by the hand of the operator. It will be observed that the
pressure which holds the shoe up to the work is because of the rocking and sliding
movement of the jack always directly or nearly in line with the upward pressure,
that is, over the point of connection between the lever r¹ and the socket d¹º
This direction of pressure remains constant at all points around the shoe as
presented to the needle, consequently the indirect strain upon the jack or shoe,
found in the usual construction, is avoided, and the operator has nothing to do but
simply guide the shoe, the holding and the proper relative position being produced
by the movement of the jack. At the toe end of the jack a stop u is arranged so
that when the toe is reached the said stop will bring up against the end of the
guide d³, then the stitching around the toe is done by simply turning the jack on
its joint d, and with a slight rocking motion the stitching around the toe is
produced as if the jack were hung upon substantially a fixed centre, producing more
perfect work than when the guides at the needle are relied upon, as in the usual
arrangement of holding jacks.
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of the said
Invention, and the manner in which the same is or may be used or carried into
effect, I would observe in conclusion that what I consider as my Invention is,―
1. The combination of a reciprocating thread carrying needle and mechanism
working with it to form a stitch, a wax pan and means for heating the wax in the
pan, substantially as described.
2. The combination of a reciprocating thread carrying needle and mechanism
working with it to form a stitch, a heated wax pan, and a reciprocating hook which
advances to take the needle thread and carry it to the wax pan, substantially as
described.
3. The combination of a reciprocating thread carrying needle and mechanism
working with it to form a stitch, a heated wax pan, and a reciprocating hook which
advances to take the needle thread and carry it to the wax pan, with a pair of
nippers to raise the needle thread to facilitate engagement of the said hook,
substantially as described.
4. The combination of a reciprocating thread carrying needle and mechanism
working with it to form a stitch, a heated wax pan, and a reciprocating hook which
advances to take the needle thread and carry it to the wax pan, with a lifter to
take the wax from the pan to the thread, substantially as described.
5. The combination of a reciprocating thread carrying needle and mechanism
working with it to form a stitch, a heated wax pan, and a reciprocating hook which
advances to take the needle thread and carry it to the wax pan, with a cast off
moving with the shuttle carrier to take the thread from the hook after waxing,
substantially as described.

page_text: 6. The combination of a reciprocating thread carrying needle and mechanism
working with it to form a stitch, a heated wax pan, and a reciprocating hook which
advances to take the needle thread and carry it to the wax pan, with a pair of
nippers arranged to take the needle thread forward of the needle when drawn taut
and raise it from the path of the needle as the needle advances, substantially as
described.
7. The combination of a stitch forming mechanism with a feed bar carrying a
feed dog on the same side of the work at which the needle enters, the said dog
puncturing the leather in advance of the needle mechanism for imparting a
longitudinal movement to the said feed bar, and a vibrating lever in connection
with said feed bar, the fulcrum of which is adjustable in a slot in said lever, and
also in a stationary slot parallel with the slot in said lever when the feed bar is at
its most advanced position, that is, when the point of the dog is in the path of the
needle, substantially as described.
8. The combination of a stitch forming mechanism, a carriage to support the
boot or shoe sliding longitudinally on an adjustable guide, an adjustable head to
support said guide, its surface rounded transversely to allow the rocking movement
of the carriage, and a support for said head, substantially as described.
9. The combination of the sliding carriage which supports the work, and
adjustable support therefor, with a clamping device operating automatically to
firmly hold the support at each stitch, substantially as described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Edward Thomas Hughes, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Twenty eighth day of July, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and eighty.
THATTAN