Year: 1887

page_text: Date of Application, 7th June, 1887
Complete Left, 27th Sept., 1887
Complete Accepted, 28th Oct., 1887
I, EMILE DAVENIERE, of St. Pierre-les-Calais, Pas-de-Calais, France, Manufacturer,
do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
The new mode of manufacturing lace which I have invented has for its object to
produce it in a more economical manner by obtaining an increased yield. I make, at
will, ground (fonds) heavy work (mats) or open work (jours) which give it its fine
appearance and its solidity.
The texture of my new laces is distinguished from those produced up to the present
time by the new mode of interlacing the threads, by the mode of twisting and
untwisting them, and by the addition of a third thread which I call "consolidating
thread." The combination of the work of the warp threads, the bobbin threads, the
consolidating threads, and sometimes of weft threads, allows me to produce at the
same time united varied effects such as ground, heavy work, open work, &c., and this
at will.
::
In order that the advantage and novelty of my new process may be understood,
I have shown for the imitation of Chantilly lace, the heavy work of which is formed
by means of a weft thread," the node of producing a ground and a heavy work,
these examples being sufficient for shewing the new method and the advantages
afforded by my new invention, at Figs. 1 and 2.
The advantage afforded by my consolidating thread "in the imitation of Chantilly
laces of which the heavy work is produced by means of the weft" is that it permits
me to obtain heavy work very firm and regular by the mode in which my consolidating
thread fixes my weft, and on the other hand by the solidity which it also imparts to
the ground, which without this consolidating thread would not have nearly the same
degree of strength and solidity.
I claim therefore very specially the new interlacement of my threads, and the
addition of my consolidating thread, which permits me to imitate the laces in an
entirely novel and economic manner, such interlacing and additions of the consolidating
thread not having ever been invented before in the conditions which I claim as my
property.

page_text: Fig. 1 shews the combined work of the threads forming a ground of four movements.
Fig. 2 shews the combined work of the threads forming the heavy work.
It is to be understood that I can at will make grounds with 4,6 or 8 movements,
and can in like manner vary the heavy work.
Fig. 1 shews the ground with four motions, 2 warp threads and one consolidating
thread for each carriage. The warp threads travel two gates.

page_text: WORK OF THE CONSOLIDATING THREAD FIG. 2.
The consolidating thread 6 passes to the right below the bobbin 2 and to the left
above. It is above the warp threads 1, 2, 3, 4 as also the weft threads. The con-
solidating threads perform the same work in an uninterrupted manner in this lace, but
they may, at will, perform a varied work in other laces. The consolidating thread 7,
Fig. 2 performs exactly the same work as the consolidating thread 6 but upon the
bobbin 1.
I also give as example the imitation of another lace, viz. that called Chantilly made
with a figured bobbin.
I have shewn a ground of six motions and a heavy work. The ground may be
made at will with 6, 8 or 10 motions but I have preferred to shew the mode of
making the ground in the most economical manner.
Fig. 4 shews the combined work of the threads forming the heavy work. Fig. 3
shews the combined work of the threads forming the ground with 6 motions. Fig. 5
shews the result obtained. Fig. 3 shews the ground of six motions, two warp threads
and one consolidating thread for each carriage; the warp threads travel two gates.
WORK OF WARP THREAD No. 6, FIG. 3.
The warp thread 6 passes in rising to the right below bobbins 1 and 2 above the
warp thread 5, passes to the left above bobbin 2 and to the right below, passes to the
left above, to the right below, passes to the left above, rests two motions between the
bobbins 1 and 2 and passes above the warp thread 5, passes to the left above bobbin 1
to the right below, passes to the left above, to the right below, to the left above.

page_text: WORK OF THE WARP THREAD No. 5 FIG. 3.
The warp thread 5 rests two motions between bobbins 1 and 2, passes below the
thread 6, passes to the left above bobbin 1 in falling, to the right below, to the
left above, passes to the right below, to the left above, to the right in falling below
the bobbins 1 and 2 and below the warp thread 6, passes to the left above the
bobbin 2 to the right below, to the left above, to the right below, to the left above.

page_text: The consolidating thread 3 passes to the left below bobbin 2, above the warp
threads 1 and 2 and below the warp thread 6, passes to the right above bobbin 2,
below warp thread 6 and above warp threads 1 and 2.
The warp thread 1 passes to the right below the bobbins 2 and 3 and below the
consolidating threads 3 and 4, passes to the left above the bobbins 3 and 2 and below
the consolidating threads 3 and 4. The work of the heavy work is effected in two
motions.
Fig. 5 shews the position of the bobbin threads, the warp threads and the consoli-
dating threads after the work is completed.
I am aware that a third thread has already been employed for imitating certain
laces which may also be called consolidating thread, but this thread has only been
used up to the present time for allowing the warp threads to make heavy work or for
replacing the bobbin as (mat) heavy work in laces called heavy bobbin (mat
bobbine).
The object of my invention being to make laces in a more economical manner, iny
consolidating thread, in affording greater interlacement, gives me a (mat) heavy
work of a closer texture and permits thereby of the production of a greater quantity
of lace in a given time.
I have spoken of the third thread called consolidating thread already used in order
to make thoroughly understood the importance of the new texture of my laces and
the combined work of my threads. The advantage which my consolidating thread
gives and its new mode of working in the laces called heavy bobbin (mat bobbine) is
that it gives a greater interlacement to the threads and thereby also permits of a
greater production of lace as it makes the (mats) heavy work more (fournis)
finished and finer. The second advantage of my consolidating thread is to avoid
the large openings, the consolidating thread by its tension being made to hold the
warp threads more together which allows me to obtain a ground much more regular
than that obtained up to the present time upon Leaver's machines in the articles
called heavy bobbin (mat bobbine).

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
An Improved Manufacture of Imitation Lace on Tulle Machine.
1. EMILE DAVENIERE of St. Pierre les-Calais, Pas-de-Calais, France, Manufacturer,
do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be
performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:
The new mode of manufacturing lace which I have invented has for its object to
produce it in a more economical manner by obtaining an increased yield. I make at
will ground (fonds) heavy work (mats) or open work (jours) which give it its fine
appearance and its solidity.
The texture of my new laces is distinguished from those produced up to the present
time by the new mode of interlacing the threads, by the mode of twisting and
untwisting them and by the addition of a third thread which I call "consolidating
thread." The combination of the work of the warp threads the bobbin threads, the
consolidating threads, and sometimes of weft threads, allows me to produce at the
same time united varied effects such as ground work, heavy work, open mark, &c. and
this at will.
In order that the advantage and novelty of my new process may be understood,
I have shewn for the imitation of Chantilly lace," the heavy work of which is formed
by means of a weft thread, the mode of producing a ground and a heavy work, these
examples being sufficient for shewing the new method and the advantages afforded,
by my new invention, at Figs. 1 and 2 of the Drawings accompanying my Provisional
Specification.
The advantage afforded by my "consolidating thread" in the imitation of Chantilly
laces, of which the heavy work is produced by means of the weft, is that it permits me
to obtain heavy work very firm and regular by the mode in which my consolidating
thread fixes my weft, and on the other hand by the solidity which it also imparts to the
ground, which without this consolidating thread would not have nearly the same
degree of strength and solidity.
I claim therefore very specially the new interlacement of my threads and the
addition of my consolidating thread which permits me to imitate the laces in an
entirely novel and economic manner, such interlacing and additions of the consoli-
dating thread not having ever been invented before in the conditions which I claim as
my property.
Referring to the drawing accompanying my Provisional Specification. Fig. 1
shews the combined work of the threads forming a ground of four movements.
Fig. 2 shews the combined work of the threads forming the heavy work.
It is to be understood that I can at will make grounds with 10, 6 or 8 movements,
and can in like manner vary the heavy work.
Fig. 1 shews the ground with four motions, 2 warp threads and one consolidating
thread for each carriage. The warp threads travel two gates.

page_text: The warp thread 1 rests one motion to the right of bobbin 3, passes below the warp
thread 3, passes to the left above bobbins 3 and 2 and below the warp threads 2 B
and 4, rests two motions to the left of bobbin 2, passes below the warp thread 4,
passes to the right above bobbin 2 and to the left below, passes to the right above the
bobbins 2 and 3 and below the warp threads 3 and 4, passes to the left below
bobbin 3, to the right above and rests one motion below the warp threads 3 and 4.
WORK OF THE CONSOLIDATING THREAD No. 6 FIG. 1.
The consolidating thread 6 entwines in the come manner as the consolidating
thread 7, but upon the bobbin 2.
Fig. 2 shews heavy work made with two warp threads and one consolidating thread
for each carriage and also one or more weft threads below the consolidating thread
and above the warp threads and which I cause to work according to will.
thread 7, but upon the bobbin 2.
་སT-
Fig. 2 shews heavy work made with two warp threads and one consolidating thread
for each carriage and also one or more weft threads below the consolidating thread
and above the warp threads and which I cause to work according to will.

page_text: The warp thread 3 passes to the left of the bobbin 1, passes to the right above
bobbins 1 and 2, and below the warp thread 4, passes to the left below bobbin 2, rests
two motions between bobbins 1 and 2 and below warp thread 4.
The warp thread 2 passes to the left below bobbin 2, passes to the right above
bobbins 2 and 3 above the warp thread 1, passes to the left below bobbin 3, rests two
motions between bobbins 2 and 3 and above the warp thread 1.
WORK OF THE CONSOLIDATING THREAD FIG. 2.
The consolidating thread 6 passes to the right below bobbin 2 and to the left above.
It is above the warp threads 1, 2, 3, 4 as also the weft threads. The consolidating
threads perform the same work in an uninterrupted manner in this lace, but they may,
at will, perform a varied work in other laces. The consolidating thread 7. Fig. 2
performs exactly the same work as the consolidating thread 6 but upon the bobbin 1.
I also give as example the imitation of another lace, viz. that called "Chantilly
made with a figured bobbin.
33
I have shewn a ground of six notions and a heavy work. The ground may be
made at will with 6, 8 or 10 motions but I have preferred to shew the mode of making
the ground in the most economical manner.
Fig. 4 shews the combined work of the threads forming the heavy work. Fig. 3
shews the combined work of the threads forming the ground with 6 motions. Fig. 5
shews the result obtained. Fig. 3 shews the ground of 6 motions, two warp threads
and one consolidating thread for each carriage; the warp threads travel two gates.
WORK OF WARP THREAD No. 6 FIG. 3.
The warp thread 6 passes in rising to the right below bobbins 1 and 2 above the
warp thread 5, passes to the left above bobbin 2 and to the right below, passes to the
left above, to the right below, passes to the left above, rests two motions between
the bobbins 1 and 2 and passes above the warp thread 5 passes to the left above
bobbin 1 to the right below, passes to the left above, to the right below, to the left
above.

page_text: WORK OF THE WARP THREAD No. 5 FIG. 3.
The warp thread 5 rests two motions between bobbins 1 and 2, passes below the
thread 6, passes to the left above bobbin 1 in falling, to the right below, to the left
above, passes to the right below to the left above, to the right in falling below the
bobbins 1 and 2 and below the warp thread 6, passes to the left above the bobbin 2
io the right below, to the left above, to the right below, to the left above.

page_text: passes to the left above the bobbin 2 and below the consolidating thread 3
WORK OF THE WARP THREAD No. 1 FIG. 4.
The warp thread 1 passes to the
consolidating threads 3 and 4, passes
the consolidating threads 3 and 4.
motions.
right below the bobbins 2 and 3, and below the
to the left above the bobbins 3 and 2 and below
The work of the heavy work is effected in two
Fig. 5 shews the position of the bobbin threads the warp threads and the
consolidating threads after the work is completed.
I am aware that a third thread has already been employed for imitating certain
laces which may also be called "consolidating thread," but this thread has only been
usod up to the present time for allowing the warp threads to make heavy work or
for replacing the bobbin as (mat) heavy work in laces called heavy bobbin (mat
bobbine).
The object of my invention being to make laces in a more economical manner, my
consolidating thread, in affording greater interlacement, gives me a (mat) heavy work
of a closer texture and permits thereby the production of a greater quantity of lace
in a given time.
I have spoken of the third thread called consolidating thread already used in order
to make thoroughly understood the importance of the new texture of my laces and
the combined work of my threads. The advantage which my consolidating thread
gives and its new mode of working in the laces called heavy bobbin (mat bobbine) is
that it gives a greater interlacement to the threads and thereby also permits of a
greater production of lace as it makes the (mats) heavy work more (fournis) full and
finer. The second advantage of my consolidating thread is to avoid the large
openings. The consolidating thread by its tension being made to hold the warp
threads more together which allows me to obtain a ground much more regular
than that obtained up to the present time upon Leavers machines in the articles
called heavy bobbin (mat bobbine).
In my previous Specification No. 2771 of 1887, I have described the combined use
of four threads in certain ways to produce on a lace machine fabrics similar to woven
fabrics I therefore under this Patent make no claim to the methods of manufacture
described in the said Specification, but
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of this invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I claim is :-
The manufacture of lace on ordinary Leavers machines by the combined use of
warp, consolidating, weft and bobbin threads substantially as herein described.
Dated this 27th day of September 1887.
ABEL & IMRAY,
Agents for the Applicant.