Improved Means for Drafting Shirt Patterns.
Year: 1890

page_text: Date of Application, 2nd Apr., 1890
Complete Specification Left. 2nd Jan. 1891-Accepted. 28th Mar.. 1891
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improved Means for Drafting Shirt Patterns.
Mrs. PHOEBE HUTCHINSON, Lodge Gate, Denholme, near Bradford, Yorkshire,
Wife of Schoolmaster, do hereby declare the nature of said invention for
"IMPROVED MEANS FOR DRAFTING SHIRT PATTERNS to be as follows:-
39
Pattern of one half of shirt, consisting of body part, with the neck sizes, front, sleeve,
collar, wrist-band, and shoulder saddle. From 'B' to C is the front inch measure. From
B to H is the depth of shoulder saddle at the back of the neck. From H to G is
the neck sizes, of which the smallest half circle of perforations is the half of 8 inches,
and the largest half circle of perforations is the half of 20 inches. From toj is
the length of the shoulder saddle line. From E toj is the width of the shoulder
saddle at the end of the shoulder. From n to o is the straight armhole. From p
too is the curved armhole. From p to 9 and to o is the gusset cornered armhole.
A is the front, or double breast part. k, l, and m are the graduated sizes
from 9 to 20, in parts of inches, to be used in shaping the linen front or breast part,
according to size of shirt required. From o to is the side curve, also the straight
side inch measure. From to F is the lappet. As shewn in the Specification the
measurements for the length and width of the sleeve, collar, and wrist-band are
marked upon the part allowed for the length and width of the shirt body. The
perforations at s are the sizes for the width of the sleeve at the wrist. From s to t
is the inch measure used in taking the length of the under part of the sleeve.
From t to u is the curved armhole of the top part of the sleeve. From to "
and to t is the gusset shaped armhole of the top part of the sleeve. w is the half
of the collar, with the sizes from 9 to 20, in parts of inches marked thereon. x is
the wrist-band, and the sizes from 5 to 10 in parts of inches are marked upon the
part allowed for the under arm measure of the sleeve. a is the parts to be cut out
to make a space convenient for the use of a pencil when drafting a shirt pattern on
linen or paper.
The manner of using the figure and scales of sizes when drafting a
shirt pattern, is to lay the figure on material and take the length required from B
to C, and from to r; aud the width from i to j, and from to F. The neck size
is found by marking through the half circle of perforations from H to G, marked
with the figures denoting the number of inches required. The size and shape of
the armhole required is found from o to n, or from o to p, or from o to q and to p..
In shaping the side of the shirt, either the curved, or the straight measure can be
used. For drafting the shoulder saddle, from B to H is used for the depth at
the back of the neck. From the neck sizes on the shoulder saddle line to jis
used for the length of the shoulder saddle. From j to E is used for the width at the
shoulder, or armhole. From B to E is used for the curved line at the back of the
shoulder saddle. In drafting the sleeve the part from u to t, or from u toe and t
is used for taking the size of the armhole. From t to s is used for measuring the
length, and also for shaping the under part of the sleeve by drawing a line along
the part marked a, and the sizes at s are for the width of the sleeve at the wrist.
For drafting the collar, lay the part w on the material, mark at the size required,
and with, the pencil draw the lines around through the parts marked a. For
drafting the wrist-band lay the part a on the material, mark at the size required,
and with the pencil draw the lines around through the parts marked a. When
drafting the front or breast part, the graduated sizes at k, land m are used, the
size required being found at the corresponding figure to the one used for the size of
the neck, and also by marking through the half circle of perforations at the neck
size used from H to G. Each part of the shirt to be drafted on separate parts of
linen, or can be drafted on one sheet of paper.
Dated this 21st day of March 1800

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION..
Improved Means for Drafting Shirt Patterns.
PHEBE HUTCHINSON, Lodge Gate, Denholme, near Bradford, Yorkshire, Wife
of Schoolmaster, do hereby declare the nature of this invention, and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in' and by
the following statement :-
By referring to my Provisional Specification and drawings it will be seen that
this invention has been fully described.
My invention consists of a new way of taking the measurements of a shirt on
paper or linen, prior to cutting out the various parts.
In carrying out my invention I employ a new form of instrument, marked with
the inch measure, and graduated sizes in perforations, for the purpose of taking the
exact measurements.
i
Fig. 1, represents the instrument employed, preferably composed of wood.
In using the instrument shewn at Fig. 1, the half circles of perforations from H
to G are used to measure the neck of shirt, the one perforation at H being used for
the centre of the back of the neck, and the perforations at G are used to measure
the depth of the front part of the neck; the smallest size being 9 inches, and the
largest size 20 inches. From I to J is used for measuring the length of the
shoulder saddle along the front of the shoulder. The part marked B and E
is used for shaping the back of the shoulder saddle.
and F, and continued to r, is used to measure and shape the lappet. From B
The part marked C
to. C is used to measure the length of the front. From o tor is used to measure
the side length from under the arm. From n to o is used to measure the
straight armhole, and from p to o is used for the curved armhole.
the gusset shaped armhole I mark at o, and through the perforation 7, and
In making
then draw a straight line from o to q, and from y to p. From t to u is the
curved sleeve top, and in making the gusset shaped armhole 1 mark through
perforations marked t and e, and draw a straight line from t to r, and from v
to u.
The perforations at s are used to measure the plain part for the sleeve
wrist. From s to t is the part used to measure the length of the under part of the
sleeve. The part marked w is the part used to measure the collar, the smallest size
being 9 inches, and the largest size 20 inches, the collar being shaped by drawing
a line around through the part marked a, beginning at size required. The part
marked is the part used to measure the wrist-band, the smallest size being 5 inches,
and the largest size 10 inches, the wrist-band being shaped by drawing a line
around through the parts marked a, commencing at size required, the perforations 3
being used to shape the square corners.
length of shoulder for the linen front, the smallest size being 9, and the largest 20.
The part at k is used to measure the
The part marked is used for the corner width of linen front, the smallest size
being 9, and the largest 20, and the part marked mi is used for the width of the
bottom of the linen front, the smallest size being 9 and the largest size 20. After 4
marking at the size required at k, l, m, draw a straight line from k to l, and from l
All parts marked a are to be cut out for the purpose of configuration when
drafting a shirt pattern.
to m.
Drafting a shirt pattern to a given size on paper, I should first draw a line down
the front of the figure, then measure the length of the front of the body from the 4
corner at B to the figures 35 on the inch measure at C.
perforation at H on the mark made at B, and the neck size being 16 inches I should
1 should then place the
mark around through the perforations to size 16 at G.
length of the shoulder at 8 inches, then the width of the shoulder saddle at the back
I should next mark the
of the neck at 3 inches, then mark at the corner E. I should then mark out the 5
size of the linen front by marking through the perforations with the size 16
at k, l, m. The armhole being 9 inches I place the size 9 of the armhole curve to n, and
The side curve being 17 inches long I draw the line from
then draw a corner at o.

page_text: the mark made at o, to the mark at r, and draw the lappet curve from r to F and
to C. I next take the length of the sleeve by marking at 19 inches, and at size 2
of the wrist sizes, then mark at the perforation t, and at the corner u for the armhole
size. I next draw a line from the mark made at 19 inches for the length of sleeve,
along the space a to t, and for the armhole I draw a line along the space from t to u.
For the collar-the neck size being 16 inches I mark opposite that size through
the spaces a, and then draw a line around through the spaces. The wrist-band size
being 9 inches I mark at the size and at the perforations at the corner, and then
draw a line around through the spaces a. I then draw the straight lines from each
mark at size 16 for the linen front. I then draw the lines from B to E, from B
to H, and from H to n. When marking out the pattern on linen,-after marking
the neck sizes, armhole, and side curve, the shoulder saddle, linen front, sleeve,
collar, and wrist-band must be marked out separately: ..e., not upon the part
allowed for the body of the shirt. If the body is required larger the figure can
be laid out the required number of inches from the mark made at the last inch on
the measures.
I would remark that the instrumeut graduated in the manner shewn and described
will greatly facilitate the taking of measurements in sizes, and for forming exact
configuration of the parts required, it must also be understood that the description
herein given refers to laying out the pattern of the garment in separate parts, and
that the designs and measurements may be marked either upon paper or linen.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
An instrument, and model of shirt pattern in half, with the sizes in perforations
to mark the neck sizes, and sizes of the linen front or breast part, and along the
shoulder saddle, in position for marking. Also the sizes marked upon the collar
and wrist-band, and the inch measure marked upon the edge of the front, side curves,
sleeve. Also upon the armholes of the shirt body and the sleeve, in position for
marking, and drafting each part separately, arranged substantially as described in
the Specification and shewn in the drawings.
'
Dated this 31st day of December 1890.
PHOEBE HUTCHINSON.