CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN CIRCULAR LOOMS
Year: 1854

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to François Durand, of Paris, in the Empire of France,
and of 4, South Street, Finsbury, London, Mechanician, for the Invention
of "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN CIRCULAR LOOMS"
Sealed the 27th March 1855, and dated the 5th October 1854.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said François Durand at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
5th October 1854.
I, FRANÇOIS DURAND, of Paris, in the Empire of France, and of 4, South
Street, Finsbury, London, Mechanician, do hereby declare the nature of my
Invention of CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN CIRCULAR LOOMS" to be as follows:-
My Invention consists in the construction & application, 1stly, of thread.
passers, for producing weft continuously; 2ndly, of needles to hold the weft,
for obtaining a great variety of form and colors.
In the accompanying Drawing, A represents the frame; B, the pullies; C,
a horizontal shaft, on which are set the excentrics D, the pinions E, the excen-
trics F, and the collar G, of the regulator; D is an excentric, which works the
lever Z D is the groove of the excentric D; E are the pinions, which work
the shafts H by means of the pinions I; F are excentrics, which work the
treddles Y G, the excentric collar of the regulator; H, vertical shafts, upon
which are set the pinions I & J; J, pinions working the pinions K; K,

page_text: pinions upon the shaft L; L, shaft, upon which is the wheel M and the pinions
K; M, wheel, working the thread passers N; O, the comb, set upon the
shaft P, the harness; R, shafts, upon which are set the excentrics S and
the slots T; S, the excentric, which moves the harness q; T, the slots; U, the
crank, which works the excentric; V, the catch of the thread passer; VI,
spring of the catch V; W, the needles for the weft threads; W, balance
levers, which depress the needles W; X, disengagers; Y, treddles, which
communicate motion to the cranks U; y', friction roller, working in the
groove D' of the excentric D; Z, shaft, working the lever Z', which works
the shafts P.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said François Durand in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
5th April 1855..
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, FRANÇOIS
DURAND, of Paris, in the Empire of France, and of 4, South Street, Finsbury,
London, Mechanician, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Fifth day of October, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and fifty-four, in the eighteenth year of Her reign,
did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the said
François Durand, Her special license that I, the said François Durand, my
executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said François
Durand, y executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the
term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel
Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention of "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN CIRCULAR
Looms," upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said François Durand,
by an instrument in writing under my hand and seal, should particularly
describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner
the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great
Seal Patent Oflice within six calendar months next and immediately after
the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said François Durand, do hereby declare
the nature of the said Invention, and in. what manner the same is to be

page_text: receive their motion from the vertical axis k, k, provided with bevil wheels
e, the lower ones of which cog with the wheels e, set upon the axle b. The
plates are elongated at top to ¹ to support the jacquard machine; the parts i¹
also carry the needles 7, 1, 1, continually raised by means of spiral springs; the
upper parts of the needles are moved by the levers m, receiving their move-
ment from the jacquard. At the lower extremity of these needles is a hole,
through which passes the weft thread, fed by the bobbins, carried by the
oblong frame.
The pass thread readers n (herein-after described), as well as the principal
organs of the loom, are connected with a part of a toothed circle, which cogs
with the pinions j, set upon the same axis as the bevel wheels e², which are
put in motion, by the wheels e¹ of the axis k, k. . Each reader.n. has, a moveable
knob n', so disposed that a spring causes it. to egress, and the pressure. forces
it to return.
Every part being arranged as represented in the Drawing, the readers n are
placed on the right and left, as shewn in Figure 1; the warp threads g are in
the centre of the loom, and the reed x at the end of its course, in advance for
acting on the tissue. The apparatus continuing to work, the reed. * is drawn
back by the roller c¹, set in motion by the slot prepared in the excentric c, and
at this time the readers n continue their circular motion in order to cross the
warp threads, when, by crossing towards the top, the knob n' catches one of
the weft threads which is presented to it by one of the needles 1. This allows
the knob n to cross this weft thread between the warp threads; but when the
thread carrier has crossed the weft threads, the under part of the knob n¹
meets with the disengaging piece n', shewn by dotted lines in Figure 1, which
disengages the thread from the knob n¹. This thread can be retained upon
the side by a very fine needle or by a special warp thread, serving to maintain
the weft thread, or by any other means. The movements of the needle, as
well as that of the rising threads, are produced by means of the jacquard, and
all these movements, which are dependant upon each other, take place at
the proper times in consequence of the movement given to the pulley a by the
moving power.
.
The needles 1, 1, 1, as well as the readers n, and their mode of acting in the
weaving, permit of the application to the tissues of an endless weft with one
or a variety of colors, forming one of the principal characteristics of this
Invention. The object of these needles is here simply to furnish the endless
weft with the same or with various colors, according to the reading of the
pattern to be produced. It is well understood that the needles, the number

page_text: of which is determined according to necessity, are put in motion by means of
the jacquard necking cords, which are fastened to the small lever m.
Each needle carries a weft thread of the desired color, and in consequence
the cards of the jacquard being read for all the shoots of weft required by the
design to be produced, the weft thread which descends is shot by its special
needle, and arrives within the range travelled over by the knob n¹; this thread,
therefore, is drawn alone and crossed into the warp threads. The needle is
afterwards raised by its spiral spring into the space which separates two
movements of the knob n¹.
For certain kinds of stuffs, caoutchouc lace for instance, I fix the caoutchouc
without crossing it in the lams at the centre of rotation. I also fix the
ground warp, to form a pinking between each thread of caoutchouc; these warp
threads are raised from top to bottom, and vice versa, above the reader. I
replace the pass thread button n' by a shuttle carrying thread, as in the ordi-
nary system; one shuttle then crosses underneath the caoutchouc and the
other above, the opening is changed, and the thread at bottom ascends whilst
those at top descend; and consequently the tissue is very quickly formed, as
there are always two shoots of the shuttle, although the looms do not work
quicker than the ordinary ones, thus producing double the quantity of tissue
within the same space of time. It will be seen that this improved loom can
be constructed of any dimensions, and serve as well for narrow tissues as for
those of a considerable width; this is obtained by varying the relative forms &
dimensions of the different organs, according to the products to be obtained.
Figure 1, Drawing II., represents a front view, and Figure 2 a horizontal
section, of a plate similarly disposed to that represented at i, Drawing I.,
but here the whole is arranged for manufacturing pile carpets, axminster,
velvets, &c. &c.
The reader n is employed as in the loom herein-before described for
manufacturing tissues, and the weaving is performed in the same manner;
only in this case, instead of a single warp, I fix several, such as ground
and binding warp, according to the requirements of the articles wished to be
obtained.
For my improvements in manufacturing velvet, the needle P, which is pro-
vided with a knife p', is taken hold of at the proper moment between the warp
threads, and when these latter are fastened to the tissues, the knob n takes hold
of the rod of the needle carrier p, and draws it with its support 9, which slides
in the grooves of the cast-iron piece 2, screwed upon the plates i, i, of the
loom, as represented in Drawing I. This needle p, provided with a knife p',

page_text: cuts in its rotative movement the threads, when this needle egresses from the
tissue; and in continuing the movement, the knob n' is forced to cross one or
several of the weft threads into the warp; then it abandons the needle carrier
to recommence periodically the same functions, which take place by the
movement of the disengaging piece n' upon the lever of the knob n', which
causes it to disappear when required, that it should not encounter the needle
carrier p. It must be evident that for weaving terry this needle P does not
carry a knife.
Figures 3, 4, & 5, Drawing II., represent the details of the reader. Figure 3
is an elevation; Figure 4, a transverse section; and Figure 5, a plan. In
these Figures is shewn the nob n' and its lever n², which imparts to it its
to and fro movement for taking hold and crossing the weft thread into those
of the warp, and leaving that thread when it egresses from the said warp
threads as soon as the spring n³ is compressed by the disengaging piece n
Figure 1, Drawing I. It will be seen, also, in these three Figures that the
reader is provided with a toothed segment, carrying two veinings intended to
engage and work in two circular grooves made in the plate r.
Figure 6 represents a vertical section of one of the arrangements that can
be employed for communicating the movement to the shuttle carrying the
thread for the lisieres or selvages.
When an edged texture with two selvages (lisières) is to be obtained, I fix
the shuttles carrying the thread upon the plater before the machine, at the
opposite side to the needle thread carriers l, and at the egress of the weft
threads I place the warp threads for the knob n¹.
drawn the double weft thread into the warp, and is
When the reader n has
nearly arrived under the
disengaging piece n', Figure 1, Drawing I., this weft thread has formed an
acute angle on the other side of the warp threads, & the shuttle s, which is
placed underneath the angle formed by the weft thread, passes into the interior
of this angle, leaving in its passage the lisière thread which carries its quill;
the thread carrier remains placed above the circumference described by the
knob n of the reader n. This shuttles is worked by two pinions s¹ & s²,
which cog alternatively with the rack with which the shuttle s is provided;
these pinions s' and s² cog with the toothed segment s', which receives its
alternate movement from a connecting rods for transmitting it to the
shuttle s. This arrangement, which is represented horizontally, can be
employed vertically with great advantage for conducting the stitching
shuttles s, Figure 6.
Figures 7 & 8 represent, in elevation and plan, an arrangement for obtaining

page_text: chenille. In this case the warp threads are alternatively opened by the
movement of a special lam t, which carries the spindles t¹ pierced with a
hole at their upper extremity, through which the warp thread is passed; the
other spindles u are fixed to the cross pieces u¹, and are pierced at their lower
parts, in order that the warp threads may also pass through them. The cross
pieces u are sustained by lateral supports, which allows of their receiving a
to and fro motion, and as these cross pieces are united by a cord turning in the
groove of a pulley, it follows that in communicating the motion to one of these
cross pieces, the other one also receives it, but in a contrary direction, which
causes the warp threads to cross. This effect takes place at the moment
when the lam t has drawn down the other threads; it is then that the knob n¹
of the reader n hooks the weft thread, placed within the circumference of this
knob n by the movement of the jacquard. The knob n' afterwards passes the
thread above one of the spindles ², causes it to cross through the warp, and
to encounter the disengaging piece, which forces the knob n' to re-enter into
the interior of the reader; then the weft thread, which has been left free, falls
upon the second spindle u², and the reed forms the tissue, which is placed back-
ward by the regulator. This weft thread is cut at the side by the knives u³,
which the spindles u² carry, always leaving some weft in advance of the knives
upon the spindles u² to hold the tissue during the weaving.
The arrangement shewn in Figures 9 and 10, Drawing II., relates to the
guipeur or hook for twisting the fringes in tissues. The iron square V is fixed
upon the extremity of the lever or support C, shewn in Drawings I. & II.
This square carries at its upper part the twisting hook V', the opposite
extremity of which carries a small pulley V, serving to put the hook V' in
motion.
The Drawing represents the reed a at the end of its course for striking the
tissue; the hook V₁ has then taken the weft thread downwards. The square
V has a catch groove intended to cause the egress from the hook V of the
fringe that it has whipped about in turning during its course. The reed a,
arriving at the extremity of its range, meets in its passage the catch of the
square V, which disengages the fringe, as herein-before described. The reed
in returning brings back the square V³ near to the surface of the plate, in
causing the hook V to turn by means of the cord running round the pulley,
and leaves the hook V in the position of hooking up the weft thread, which is
brought back in the same manner as in the other arrangements, herein-before
described.
Figure 11 represents the disc
carrying tro
noss
throod

page_text: provided at their hooking knob with two ranges of needles 1, capable
of supplying with weft threads two tissues, which are woven at the same
time and upon the same loom. This arrangement is also provided with two
shuttles s, charged with thread to form the lisières. In this Figure is also
seen the manner in which the bobbins, supplying the needles with thread,
are supported.
Figures 1 & 2, Drawing 111., represents a brocading needle applicable to
my Invention. By this apparatus a smaller number of cards are required,
and the substance employed for forming the weft is greatly economized.
Figure 1 is a front view, and Figure 2 a side view, of the kind of loom seen
in Drawing I. i, ¹, the top of the frame of the loom; j, pinions working the
toothed reader n, provided with its knob n¹; z, levers putting in motion the
needles and the disengaging piece 2. The levers are drawn back by
the spiral springs; l, needle carrying the ground weft threads; z³, necking
cords put in motion by the jacquard. In these Figures the necessary organs
for exemplifying the apparatus are only shewn, having herein-before described
a complete loom ready for weaving.
The warp being open, the reader n performs its rotative movement, and its
knob n¹ hooks a weft thread to one of the needles ¹. This thread is therefore
lowered within the radius traversed over by the knob n¹, which crosses this
said thread through the warp to the piece 2, which the jacquard has lowered
by means of the necking cords, in order to force the knob n¹ to withdraw into
the support. At this moment this weft thread, which was drawn by the
knob n¹, frees itself, and the reader, in continuing its course, passes the piece
z, whilst the knob n' has been raised by its spiral spring, which causes it to
resume its original position, and to seize again another thread from another
needle, which has been lowered with its piece z*; in continuing the movement,
the second weft thread is released from the button n', when it arrives at the
permanent piece n', on account of the knob n¹ being able to conduct at once,
or alternatively, the ground weft thread, and one or many brocade threads.
These latter can be in any variety of colors; any desired effect can be
obtained.
Figures 3, 4, & 5 represent a front view, a plan, and a side view, of a
portion of the upper part of a loom, but disposed for weaving a simple weft
stuff. The reader n, as herein-before described, is always put in motion by
the pinions j, set between the cheeks of the plates i; only the knob n' is
replaced by the pincers n³, and the needles are replaced by the tube 13,
through which the weft thread passes. The upper part of the pincers n³ can

page_text: slide upon the upper part of the tube , and the lower part under the same,
in such a manner that, when arrived at the extremity of this tube, the
pincers in closing, by means of their spring, seizes the thread which is
passed into this tube, and draws it across the warp to release it at the opposite
extremity to where it entered. When arrived at this point, the pincers are
opened by the piece V₁ placed in the proper situation for performing this
function in the natural course of the reader n. A little before the thread is
released, the reader n encounters the lever V, which puts in motion the lever
Vs, which bears upon the thread to keep it stretched; the piece V2 carries
at the extremity, engaged in the tissue, a thread which is held by a very fine
small needle, which the mechanism withdraws each time the reed has struck
& forms the lisière upon the edge of the tissue. When once the weft thread
is engaged into the tissue, a small blade rises from the side where the thread
moves, and cuts it on the edge of the tissue in such manner that the pincers,
on their return, find there is enough thread for it to take, and cause it to
repass again to form the tissue. I can also unite the edges by means of
gauze stitches, or by any other means, according to the kind of tissue to be
woven.
And having now described the nature of my Invention, and the best means
of putting the same into execution, I wish it to be understood that I do not
confine myself to the precise details of construction, or modus operandi herein-
before described, so long as the principle of my Invention be retained; but
what I claim as constituting my Invention, and intended to be protected by
the herein-before in part recited Letters Patent, is,―
First, the mode of crossing the weft thread in weaving by a continuous
rotatory motion, as herein-before described and referred to in Figures 1 & 2,
Drawing I, and Figures 3, 4, & 5, Drawing III.
Secondly, the construction of the pass thread reader, with or without shuttle,
acting as an endless or intermittent weft, as herein-before described and
referred to in Figures 1, 2, 3, & 5, Drawing III.
Thirdly, the construction of weft needle carriers to vary the colors, and read
the designs, as herein-before described and referred to in Figures 1 & 2,
Drawing III.
Fourthly, the mode of constructing needle knife carriers for cutting
mechanically plain velvet or alternate parts of velvet or fabrics, as herein-
before described and referred to in Figures 1 & 2, Drawing II.
Fifthly, the mode of applying the plate i, i, and the shuttle lisière carrier,
as herein-before described and referred to in Figure 6, Drawing II.

page_text: Sixthly, the mechanical arrangement of the guipeur, as herein-before
described and referred to in Figures 9 & 10 of Drawing II.
In witness whereof, I, the said François Durand, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Second day of April, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-five.
F. DURAND.
(L.S.)