An Improved Coat.
Year: 1894

page_text: Date of Application, 19th Sept., 1894-Accepted, 20th Oct., 1894
COMPLETE
SPECIFICATION.
An Improved Coat.
I, ISAAC FINBERG, of 18, Upper George Street, Bryanston Square, in the
County of London, Practical Tailor, do hereby declare the nature of this invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described
and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This invention relates to a reversible double-breasted coat designed to serve the
purpose of a driving coat when worn with the one side outward, and the purpose
of a walking coat when worn with the other side outward; the improved coat being
of special utility to those who have occasion at times to drive and at times to walk,
enabling them at each such time to appear in costume appropriate to the occasion
and avoiding the present necessity of having two separate garments for the said
purposes.
All that is required with the improved coat to effect the desired change, is, upon
taking the coat off, to turn the sleeves inside out and to turn over the collar and
front lappets, and again put on the coat so reversed and wear it in a normal manner,
when it will have the appearance of an ordinary coat and will not give any
indication or appearance of the alternative use of which it is capable.
The respective sides of the coat are fitted with buttons and pockets, and are
sewn, seamed and finished in every respect appropriate to their respective intended
uses, so that the coat when worn as a walking coat will appear to beholders as a
walking coat and will have on its outer side convenient to the wearer the usual
accessories and conveniences of a walking coat, and when reversed as aforesaid and
worn as a driving coat, will appear as a driving coat and will have on its outer
side convenient to the wearer the usual accessories and conveniences of a driving
coat.
The invention will be readily understood from the accompanying diagrams, of
which Fig. 1, represents the walking side of the coat, and Fig. 2, the driving side
thereof.
In carrying out the invention, the coat is made partly of two thicknesses of cloth,
with or without an intervening foundation as required, and partly of one thickness
of cloth, and without lining, both sides of the coat being made of cloth of the same
colour. The coat, may, however, be made wholly of two thicknesses of cloth.
Excepting the sleeves, pockets and collar, the walking side of the coat is made of
4 pieces of cloth, two thereof, A, each serving as a half front and one of the sides,
and the two others thereof, B, each serving as a half hack, such parts being lap-
seamed together. And with a like exception and also excepting the seam-straps,
the driving side of the coat is preferably made of six pieces of cloth, two thereof, C,
each serving as a half body-front, two thereof, D, each serving as a half skirt, and
two thereof, E, each serving as a side-body, such parts C, D, E, being strap-
seamed together and to the back pieces B, which serve for both the walking and
the driving sides of the coat, and are lap-seamed and strap-seamed together: both
such sides of the coat being also sewn or seamed together around the outer edges:
all as hereinafter more particularly referred to. As modifications, the parts C,
and E, may be made in one; as may also the parts C, D, and E; and so may also
the parts B, but not so advantageously as regards the obtainment of a good fitting
coat whichever side be worn outwards.
In proceeding to make the coat according to the accompanying diagrams (which
are not to scale as regards the fit of the coat) :-To the outer side of each
piece A, buttons a', are sewn at suitable distances apart appropriate to a walking
coat, and hip, and breast flap or welted pockets a², are also applied thereto in usual

page_text: positions, the pockets depending on what will eventually become the inner side of
the piece when the parts of the coat are put together. Each piece A, is also
clamped as usually under the arm-hole as at a³, by cutting out a part thereof and
sewing together the adjacent cut edges on the inner side.
One of the pieces B, is made with an overlapping offset ', on the walking
side, and the other piece B, is made with an overlapping offset 62, on the
driving side. Each piece B, is lap-seamed along its edge 63, to the adjacent edge
of the piece A.
To the outer side of each piece C, buttons c, are sewn at suitable distances apart
appropriate to a driving coat, and breast flap or welted pockets c², are also applied
to one or both pieces in usual positions, the pockets depending on what will become
the inner side of the piece when the coat is put together.
Hip flap or welted pockets d', are also applied in usual positions to one or to
each of the skirt pieces D, with the pockets depending on what will become the
inner side of the piece when the coat is put together.
The edge e', of each side-body piece E, is strap-seamed to the adjacent edge of
the piece C after which, the lower or waist-edges of the united pieces C, E, are
strap-seamed to the waist-edge of their skirt piece D.
;
Each half of the walking side of the coat is then united with its corresponding
half of the driving side of the coat so as to locate all the said depending pockets
between such opposite sides of the coat, by seaming the edges a, c³, d³, 10 of the
pieces A, C, D, B, around the front and bottom edges so as to appear on both
sides alike, and by strap-seaming the edge 3, of the side-body piece E, to the
driving side of its back piece B, in such a manner as not to show the seam on the
walking side of the coat; and by infolding and lap-seaming the edge d³, of the skirt
piece D, (in continuance of the line of seaming e³) to the driving side of the back
piece B, in such a manner as not to show the seam on the walking side of the coat;
and by simultaneously lap-seaming the shoulder edge a, of the piece A, and strap-
seaming the shoulder piece c', of the piece C, to the shoulder edge 64, of the
piece B, thus completing the arm-hole.
Button holes a, are then made down the front of the one half coat to accommo-
date one set of the buttons a¹, the other set of which are applied for ornamental
purposes and other button holes c', are made down the front of the other half coat
to accommodate one set of the buttons c¹.
The half parts of the coat thus formed are then united together by simultaneously
lap-seaming on the walking side and strap-seaming on the driving side the edges b³,
of the back pieces B, down to the level of the offset 6, below which, the lap-
seaming of the straightly continued edge 66, on the walking side to the lapped part
or offset 62, is continued in such a manner as not to show the seam on the driving
side of the coat, down to the level of the offset b1, below which the free edge 6º, of
the offset b', is inturned and lap-seamed down to its bottom edge, the edge b', of the
offset 6, being strap-seamed down to its bottom edge, and then sewn to the lap-
seamed edge d³, of the adjacent part of the skirt piece D, down to the level of the
offset b', below which it is free. The offset 62, is then strap-seamed across at 18, in
line with the strap-seams uniting the pieces C, E, D.
Both sides of the collar F, may be of the like cloth, or one side may be lined
with velvet or other material. The collar is sewn at 2, to the top edges of the
united pieces A, C, B, and can be turned either side outwards. Provision is made
for hanging up the coat, whichever side be outwards, by means of a strap f³, sewn
to the one side of the top edge of the back piece and adapted normally to lie in a
pocket f, which is located in such a position as to be covered by the collar when
the latter is on the walking side, and to be on the inside of the coat when the latter
is reversed, the mouth of the pocket being normally closed by a hook and eye or
other fastening f.
The top and bottom parts of each sleeve G, are lap-seamed together at g', on the
walking side, and strap-seamed together at g², on the driving side, and they are also
Jap-seamed on the one side and strap-seamed on the other side to the arm holes.

page_text: Their outer ends are doubled over to form a cuff g³, (Figs. 3, and 4,) on the driving
side. Before, however, the cuff is doubled over, the part of the sleeve it covers is
sewn around in an ornamental manner at g', on the walking side, the stitching
securing a lining to which the cuff when turned over is sewn, so that said
ornamental stitching g', will not appear on the driving side of the coat.
Consequently, each side of the coat is characteristic of its intended use through-
out, the diagrams representing a "Chesterfield" walking coat on the one side,
and a "Newmarket" driving coat on the other side. Other forms or shapes of
walking and driving coats may be combined and incorporated in the one garment
in substantially the same manner as hereinbefore described, the invention not being
limited to the combination of coats of the precise forms or shapes represented by
the diagrams.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
A reversible double breasted coat adapted to serve the purpose of a driving
coat when worn with the one side outward, and the purpose of a walking coat
when worn with the other side outward, and made substantially in the manner
hereinbefore described.
Dated this 18th day of Santambon 1904
DAY, DAVIES, & HUNT,
321, High Holborn, London, W.C., Agents for the Applicant.