A Portable Machine for Darning Stockings, Fabrics, or Materials, and the like purposes.
Year: 1891

page_text: Date of Application, 5th Mar., 1891
Complete Specification Left, 7th Dec., 1891-Accepted, 27th Feb., 1892
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
A Portable Machine for Darning Stockings, Fabrics, or Materials,
and the like purposes.
We ALFRED DUQUESNE and ETIENNE MARIE ALBERT DUQUESNE both of
No. 16 Rue de la Sorbonne Paris France Booksellers do hereby declare the nature
of this invention to be as follows:-
The machine which forms the object of this invention is based upon the application
of the principle of the weaving loom to the mending or darning of stockings or
other knitted fabrics of linen tissues and the like and generally of all articles for
which mending by hand has been hitherto the only means employed. The small
machine which we have combined has for its object to considerably diminish the
loss of time and the difficulty attending mending operations and especially to impart
to the finished work the aspect of the original fabric with all the regularity
required while the said machine may be used by all even by the inexperienced a
further object being to render a class of work which has hitherto been in the
hands of a few thoroughly practical and universal.
In order to render our invention more fully understood we have shewn by way
of example the same in the accompanying drawings in which
Figure 1 is a plan of the machine
Figure 2 being a longitudinal section thereof with its support.
As shown in the drawings our darning machine consists of a workbox or case A
of suitable material such as cardboard pasteboard millboard strawboard wood metal
or the like furnished with a lid B padded to a suitable depth. The dimensions as
well as the form of this box may vary according to the class of work it is required
to produce its size however being such that it may afford sufficient room for the
apparatus and its accessories such as clips needles and the like.
The purely mechanical parts of the darning machine are as follows:-
1. A multiple clamp or clip arranged and actuated in the following manner;
A plate a of suitable metal carries at each side a wing or lug b and c projecting
slightly beyond its level. Within these two lugs are arranged two rods d and f
carrying each a row of parallel clamping hooks capable of moving freely the
hooks gare carried by the rod d and the hooks by the rod f. The clamps g
are terminated at a regular distance from the edge of the plate a by hooks designed
to hold a loop of the thread which loop can be readily inserted therein. Each set
of clamps g has a different appearance or color to avoid the entanglement of the
threads when the chain is mounted.
h
Outside the lugs b and c each rod d and is furnished with a thumb piece k 1
forming a projection at the rear and held in a raised position by two small springs m
and n.
These springs have for their object to hold when free the two sets of
clamps against the plate a. Below this plate and on each side thereof is arranged
a long and sharply pointed rod o and of respectively designed to fix it rigidly upon
the padding of the lid B above the material being darned.
2. A second set of plain clamps & fixed rigidly upon a plate p of the same length
as the plate a and carrying likewise below it and on each side a pointed rod r
and having the same object as the rods o o¹ of the plate a. Upon the extremity
of each clamp is arranged a small hook similar to that of the movable clamps gh.
The number of clamps s is equal to that of the clamps h.
When the machine is required for use the closed box is placed under the hole
equired to be filled (darned or mended) with the padding uppermost (if it were a
stocking the box would be inserted in it directly under the hole and on the flat).

page_text: The two plates a and p are subsequently set up parallely to one another and at an
interval determined by the size of the mending required and the extremities of the
clamps are arranged a little at the back. A long flat needle being furnished or
threaded with cotton wool or other textile according as required a stop stitch is
first made in the material and the thread is inserted in the hook of a first clamp &
plate p being led thence to the corresponding clamp plate a and to the next
clamp h of the same plate without stretching the thread too much. The thread is
now brought down to the second clamps whereat it is hooked and passed up again
to the plate a being then inserted in the two hooks of the two consecutive clamps y
and and brought down to the third clamps and so on until the hole requiring to
be filled is sufficiently covered over by the layer of threads extending beyond its
edges. Thus is formed the chain or warp of the new tissue which it is sought
to produce.
After having stopped by a stitch the warp of the fabric at the height of the
clamps s the weft is proceeded with and for this purpose the thumb piece is
depressed in order to raise the whole set of clamps g while the clamps remain
flat upon the fabric.
There are thus formed as in weaving looms two layers or plane thread surfaces
forming an acute angle the summits of which is at the clamps-s of the plate p
a first thread is now passed between these two layers and a stop is made by a stitch
in the tissue.
The opposite thumb piece being now depressed the 2nd set of clamps h are
raised and with it all the threads which had remained flat upon the tissue
during the preceeding operation when a second weft thread is passed between the
two transposed layers as above described and pressed against the first with the
side of the needle such as is effected by what is known as the beater of the weaving
loom. The set of clamps h is now allowed to drop down in order to recommence
the operation upon the battery or set g by means of the thumb piece k and so on
until the tissue fully covers the hole required to be darned while extending a
little beyond the same after which the stitch is finally stopped and the operation
is terminated.
The apparatus is now withdrawn and the worn out part is cut off being thus
replaced by a new tissue which is perfectly regular and exceedingly strong.
Care should be taken to fix the imaterial requiring to be darned upon the work
box by means of an india rubber ring or other analogous or suitable means.
It will be seen from the foregoing that darning operations may be effected with
the utmost facility with our apparatus in various kinds of fabrics or tissues
notwithstanding their fineness.
We may likewise adapt our universal darning machine to the doubling of heels
or open ends of stockings by giving it the necessary configuration.
The machine above described is capable of the following alterations which form
a modification thereof as shown in the drawings in which
Figure 3 is a plan of the modified machine in operation.
Figure 4 is a side view thereof.
Figures 5 and 6 show on an enlarged scale the details of the head constructions
and combinations for the alternative change of the warp threads.
Figures 7 and 8 are two views of the threading bobbin which is an optional
accessory although very useful to accelerate the formation of the chain or work.
Figure 9 is a thimble comb or beater designed to press and regulate the weft as
fast as it is being made in the darning tissue and resembling the so called "beaters
of weaving looms.
37
The tissue or material requiring to be darned et cetera is placed upon a plate of
wood or other rigid material A replacing the padded cushion above mentioned the
metallic frame B is placed directly above the material and is maintained rigidly
thereon by means of bolts c c c. This frame is furnished in front with a hinged
box D having the shape of a parallelogram and carrying the whole set of movable
clamps E E which are mounted upon the axes of small pinions G G enclosed in
1

page_text: the box D and gearing one with the other when the chain threads are pressed so
as to occupy as short a space as possible.
All the pinions are actuated at the same time by a rack H the extremities of
which are furnished outside the box with a knob I serving to push this rack in
one direction or the other. A small bearing spring keeps the rack in constant
gear with the pinions G.
Outside and at the lower and central part of the box D is a small plate J acting
as a spring and assisting in holding the box erect upon the frame B during the
darning operation.
The tail clamps K are adjusted upon a hinged excentric plate M arranged upon
a small frame N which can slide on the frame B in order to regulate at will the
length of the chain relatively to the size of the mending required while always
keeping parallel. The clamp holder L is provided at the rear and centrally with
an appendage P for the purpose of reversing it after the operation as will be herein-
after more fully explained.
The excentricity of the hinge M has for its object to impart to the clamp holder
the necessary rigidity for the momentary tension of the warp threads as well as
to loosen them as soon as the operation is terminated.
The machine operates in the following manner :-
Having placed the frame B upon the fabric tissue or material to be mended and
having inserted the pins e ele in the special hole O or O' formed for this purpose
according to the thickness of the material the frame N is slid to the required
place according to the darning to be effected and the chain or warp is formed in
the manner above described the threading bobbin (Figures 7 and 8) being used.
This bobbin is arranged upon the tubular holder S so as to have a natural brake
which allows notwithstanding the fineness of the thread used the insertion of the
same rapidly and readily in the front and rear clamps after which the weft is
commenced in the manner above indicated.
The alternate.change of the strands of the warp is obtained by pushing either
one or the other of the buttons I which actuate the rack H. and consequently the
pinions GG which accomplish half a revolution upon their axes so as to alter-
natively place above the strand which was below and vice versa. This improved
arrangement has for its object to obviate the defects which would be unavoidably
produced with the use of clamps having a vertical motion at the time they cross
upon the same horizontal line and moreover to diminish the size of the small loop
which terminates each double warp thread this loop disappearing afterwards in the.
fabric subsequently to the operation.
To obtain perfect darning work it is necessary to commence the weft by tacking
all the tail loops upon the fabric requiring to be darned in order to thoroughly
intermingle them with the latter the same should be done at conclusion of the
darning with the head or front loops. This machine permits to commence and
conclude the darning close to the head and tail clamps. When the darning is
entirely finished and the threads are well stopped in the fabric the tail pin ei is.
removed to release the rigidity of the frame B and the clamp holder or plate L
is tripped topsy turvy by the appendage P after which the frame N is slid back-
wards in order to disengage the darning in this operation all the clamps have
abandoned their respective loops without fail and without catching the thread. The
head box D is now tripped by means of the plate J and the clamps E descend
while describing a circular are against the lower part of the plane of the fabric
within a recess formed for this purpose in the plate A. This motion causes all the
head loops to be automatically unhooked without the aid of any accessorial part
after which the two pins c c are withdrawn and the frame B being thus released
is removed and completely frees the fabric which is subsequently removed from the
plate or frame A.
From the foregoing the rapidity and mathematical operation of our improved
apparatus or machine will appear obvious the latter being a real pocket weaving

page_text: loom at once strong light and elegant and which may be ornamented in any suitable
manner.
An important feature of our invention is the absence from the machine of any
projection likely to stop the thread during the operation or otherwise interfere
therewith.
1
1
11001
TONGUE & BIRKBECK,
34, Southampton Buildings, Chancery Lane, London, W.C.,
Agents for the Patentees.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
A Portable Machine for Darning Stockings, Fabrics, or Materials,
and the like purposes.
We ALFRED DUQUESNE and ETIENNE MARIE ALBERT DUQUESNE both of
No. 16 Rue de la Sorbonne Paris France Booksellers do hereby declare the nature
of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
The machine which forms the object of this invention is based upon the applica-
tion of the principle of the weaving loom to the mending or darning of stockings
or other knitted fabrics of linen tissues and the like and generally of all articles
for which mending by hand has been hitherto the only means employed. The
small machine which we have combined has for its object to considerably diminish
the loss of time and the difficulty attending mending operations and especially to
impart to the finished work the aspect of the original fabric with all the regularity
required while the said machine may be used by all even by the inexperienced a
further object being to render a class of work which has hitherto been in the hands
of a few thoroughly practical and universal.
In order to render our invention more fully understood we have shown by way
of example the same in the drawings left with the Provisional Specification in
which
Figure is a plan of the machine,
Figure 2 being a longitudinal section thereof with its support.
As shown in the drawings our darning machine consists of a workbox or case A
of suitable material such as cardboard pasteboard millboard strawboard wood
metal or the like furnished with a lid B padded to a suitable depth. The
dimensions as well as the form of this box may vary according to the class of
work it is required to produce its size however being such that it may afford
sufficient room for the apparatus and its accessories such as clips needles and the
like.
The purely mechanical parts of the darning machine are as follows:-
1. A. multiple clamp or clip arranged and actuated in the following manner;
A plate a of suitable metal carries at each side a wing or lug b and c projecting
slightly beyond its level. Within these two lugs are arranged two rods d and f
carrying each a row of parallel clamping hooks gh capable of moving freely-the
hooks y are carried by the rod d and the hooks by the rod f. The clamps g
are terminated at a regular distance from the edge of the plate a by hooks
designed to hold a loop of the thread which loop can be readily inserted therein.
Each set of clamps g h has a different appearance or color to avoid the entangle-
ment of the threads when the chain is mounted.
h
Outside the lugs b and c cach rod d and is furnished with a thumb piece kl
forming a projection at the rear and held in a raised position by two small springs m
and n.
These springs have for their object to hold when free the two sets of
clamps against the plate a. Below this plate and on each side thereof is arranged

page_text: a long and sharply pointed rod o and o' respectively designed to fix it rigidly upon
the padding of the lid B above the material being darned.
"
2. A second set of plain clamps s fixed rigidly upon a plate p of the same length
as the plate a and carrying likewise below it and on each side a pointed rod
and having the same object as the rods o o' of the plate a. Upon the extremity
of each clamp is arranged a small hook similar to that of the movable clamps gh.
The number of clamps s is equal to that of the clamps h.
8
When the machine is required for use the closed box is placed under the hole
required to be filled (darned or mended) with the padding uppermost (if it were a
stocking the box would be inserted in it directly under the hole and on the flat).
The two plates a and p are subsequently set up parallely to one another and at an
interval determined by the size of the mending required and the extremities of
the clamps are arranged a little at the back. A long flat needle being
furnished with cotton wool or other textile according as required a stop stitch is
first made in the material and the thread is inserted in the hook of a first clamp
plate p being thence led to the corresponding clamp g plate a and to the next
clamp of the same plate without stretching the thread too much. The thread
is now brought down to the second clamps whereat it is hooked and passed up
again to the plate a being then inserted in the two hooks of the two consecutive
clamps and hand brought down to the third clamps and so on until the hole
requiring to be filled is sufficiently covered over by the layer of thread extending
beyond its edges. Thus is formed the chain or warp of the new tissue which it is
sought to produce.
After having stopped by a stitch the warp of the fabric at the height of the
clamps the weft is proceeded with and for this purpose the thumb piece k is
depressed in order to raise the whole set of clamps 9 while the clamps / remain
flat upon the fabric.
There are thus formed as in weaving looms two layers or plain thread surfaces
forming an acute angle the summit of which is at the clamps s of the plate pa
first thread is now passed between these two layers and a stop is made by a stitch
in the tissue.
The opposite thumb piece being now depressed the 2nd set of clamps / are raised
and with it all the threads which had remained flat upon the tissue during the
preceding operation when a second weft thread is passed between the two
transposed layers as above described and pressed against the first with the side
of the needle such as is effected by what is known as the "beater" of the weaving
loom. The set of clamps h is now allowed to drop down in order to recommence
the operation upon the battery or set by means of the thumb piece and so
ou until the tissue fully covers the hole required to be darned while extending a
little beyond the same after which the stitch is finally stopped and the operation
is terminated.
The apparatus is now withdrawn and the worn out part is cut off being thus
replaced by a new tissue which is perfectly regular and exceedingly strong,
Care should be taken to fix the material requiring to be darned upon the work
box by means of an india rubber ring or other analogous or suitable means.
It will be seen from the foregoing that darning operations may be effected with
the utmost facility with our apparatus in various kinds of fabrics or tissues not-
withstanding their fineness.
We may likewise adapt our universal darning machine to the doubling of heels
or open ends of stockings by giving it the necessary configuration.
The machine above described is capable of the following alterations which form
a modification thereof at shown in the drawings in which,
Figure 3 is a plan of the modified machine in operation.
Figure 4 is a side view thereof.
Figures 5 and 6 show on an enlarged scale the details of the head constructions
and combinations for the alternative change of the warp threads.

page_text: Figures 7 and 8 are two views of the threading bobbin which is an optional
accessory although very useful to accelerate the formation of the chain or work.
Figure 9 is a thimble comb or beater designed to press and regulate the weft as
fast as it is being made in the darning tissue and resembling the so called
"beaters of weaving looms.
The tissue or material requiring to be darned et cetera is placed upon a plate of
wood or other rigid material A replacing the padded cushion above mentioned the
metallic frame B is placed directly above the material and is maintained rigidly
thereon by means of bolts c c c. This frame is furnished in front with a hinged
box D having the shape of a parallelogram and carrying the whole set of movable
clamps EE which are mounted upon the axes of small pinions G G enclosed in
the box D and arranged alternately one behind the other so as to occupy as short
a space as possible.
All the pinions are actuated at the same time by a rack H the extremities of
which are furnished outside the box with a knob I serving to push this rack in one
direction or the other. A small bearing spring keeps the rack in constant gear
with the pinions Gr.
Outside and at the lower and central part of the box D is a small plate J acting
as a spring and assisting in holding the box erect upon the frame B during the
darning operation.
The tail clamps K are adjusted upon a hinged eccentric plate M arranged upon
a small frame N which can slide on the frame B in order to regulate at will the
length of the chain relatively to the size of the mending required while always
keeping parallel. The clamp holder L is provided at the rear and centrally with
an appendage P for the purpose of reversing it after the operation as will be
hereinafter more fully explained.
The eccentricity of the hinge M has for its object to impart to the clamp holder
the necessary rigidity for the momentary tension of the warp threads as well as to
loosen them as soon as the operation is terminated.
The machine operates in the following manner :-
This
Having placed the frame B upon the fabric tissue or material to be mended and
having inserted the pins ce e in the special hole Oor O' formed for this purpose
according to the thickness of the material the frame N is slid to the required place
according to the darning to be effected and the chain or warp is formed in the
manner above described the threading bobbin (Figures 7 and 8) being used.
bobbin is arranged upon the tubular holder S so as to have a natural brake which
allows notwithstanding the fineness of the thread used the insertion of the same
rapidly and readily in the front and rear clamps after which the weft is commenced
in the manner above indicated.
The alternate change of the strands of the warp is obtained by pushing either
one or the other of the buttons I which actuate the rack H and consequently the
pinions G G which accomplish half a revolution upon their axes so as to alternatively
place above the strand which was below and vice versa.
This improved arrangement has for its object to obviate the defects which would
be unavoidably produced with the use of clamps having a vertical motion at the
time they cross upon the same horizontal line and moreover to diminish the size of
the small loop which terminates each double warp thread this loop disappearing
afterwards in the fabric subsequently to the operation.
To obtain perfect darning work it is necessary to commence the weft by tacking
all the tail loops upon the fabric requiring to be darned in order to thoroughly
intermingle them with the latter the same should be done at conclusion of the
darning with the head or front loops. This machine permits the darning to
commence and conclude close to the head and tail clamps. When the darning is
entirely finished and the threads are well stopped in the fabric the tail pin cll is
removed to release the rigidity of the frame B and the clamp holder or plate L
is tripped topsy turvy by the appendage P.after which the frame N is slid

page_text: backwards in order to disengage the darning in this operation all the clamps K have
abandoned their respective loops without fail and without catching the thread.
The head box D is now tripped by means of the plate J and the clamps E descend
while describing a circular arc against the lower part of the plane of the fabric
within a recess formed for this purpose in the plate A. This motion causes all the
head loops to be automatically unhooked without the aid of any accessorial part
after which the two pins are withdrawn and the frame B being thus released
is removed and completely frees the fabric which is subsequently removed from the
plate or frame A.
From the foregoing the rapidity and mathematical operation of our improved.
apparatus or machine will appear obvious the latter being a real pocket weaving
loom at once strong light and elegant and which may be ornamented in any suitable
manner.
An important feature of our invention is the absence from the machine of any
projection likely to stop the thread during the operation or otherwise interfere
therewith.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said
invention and in what manner the same is to be. performed we declare that what we
claim is :-
In a portable machine for darning stockings tissues and other fabrics.
1. The arrangement of a plate a comprising two rods df carrying each a row of
parallel clamps h upon which the chain threads are hooked on the one side and
on the other upon the clamps of another plate p & the teeth of the upper plate
being all moved together by means of the rods d f mounted upon journals and.
actuated by a thumb piece or lever kl so as to stretch the warp threads and to
allow the passage of the needle substantially as described and shown with reference
to Figures 1 and 2 of the drawings.
2. In a portable machine designed for darning stockings the improved modified
arrangement of a metallic frame B placed above the fabric which is to be darned
& the arrangement of movable clamps E E in combination with the parts kland
the mode of operating the said hooks E by means of pinions G and of a rack I the
whole arranged combined and connected for the purpose of operating substantially
as described and shown with reference to Figures 3 to 9 of the drawings.
Dated this 7th day of December 1891.
TONGUE & BIRKBECK,
34, Southampton Buildings, Chancery Lane, London, W.C.
Agents for the Patentees.