CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS UPON MACHINES OR MA- CHINERY ALREADY INVENTED AND IN USE, FOR THE PURPOSE OF MAKING THAT KIND OF LACE COMMONLY CALLED OR DISTINGUISHED BY THE NAME OR NAMES OF BOBBIN NET OR BUCKINGHAMSHIRE LACE NET
Year: 1816

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JOHN
HEATHCOAT, of Loughborough, in the County of Leicester, Lace Manufacturer,
send greeting.
WHEREAS I, the said John Heathcoat, did, by my Petition, humbly repre-
I sent to His present most Excellent Majesty King George the Third, that I
had found out and invented "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS UPON MACHINES OR MA-
CHINERY ALREADY INVENTED AND IN USE, FOR THE PURPOSE OF MAKING THAT KIND
OF LACE COMMONLY CALLED OR DISTINGUISHED BY THE NAME OR NAMES OF BOBBIN
NET OR BUCKINGHAMSHIRE LACE NET," that in regard I was the first and truc
Inventor thereof, and that the same have never been practised by any other
person or persons whomsoever, to my knowledge or belief, I humbly prayed
His said Majesty to grant unto me, my exors, adññors, and assigns, His Royal
Letters Patent under His Great Seal of the United Kingdom of Great Britain,
for the sole use, benefit, and advantage of my said Invention, within that part
of His said Majesty's United Kingdom of Great Britain called England, His
Dominion of Wales, and Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, for the term of
fourteen years, pursuant to the Statute in that case made and provided, His
said Most Excellent Majesty, being willing to give encouragement to all arts
and Inventions that might be for the public good, was graciously pleased to
condescend to my request, and therefore, by His Royal Letters Patent
bearing date at Westminster the First day of November, in the fifty-seventh
year of His reign, of His special grace, certain knowledge, and mere motion,
A

page_text: did give and grant unto me, the said John Heathcoat, my exors, adiñors, and
assigns, His special license, full power, sole priviledge and authority, that I,
the said John Heathcoat, my exors, adiñiors, and assigns, and every of them,
by myself and themselves, or by mine and their deputy or deputies, servants or
agents, or such others as I, the said John Heathcoat, my exors, adñors, and
assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and
at all times thereafter during the term of years therein expressed, should and
lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend my said Invention within
that part of His Majesty's said United Kingdom of Great Britain called
England, His Dominion of Wales, and Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, in
such manner as to me, the said John Heathcoat, my exors, adiñors, and
assigns, or any of them, should in our discretion seem meet, and that
I, the said John Heathcoat, my exors, adññors, and assigns, should and
lawfully might have and enjoy the whole profit, benefit, commodity, and
advantage from time to time coming, accruing, and arising by reason
of the said Invention, for and during the term of years therein mentioned,
to have, hold, exercise, and enjoy the said license, powers, priviledges and
advantages therein-before granted or mentioned to be granted unto me, the
said John Heathcoat, my exors, adiñors, and assigns, for and during and unto
the full end and term of fourteen years from the date of these Presents next
and immediately ensuing, and fully to be complete and ended according to the
Statute in that case made and provided; in which said Letters Patent is
contained a proviso that if I, the said John Heathcoat, should not particularly
describe and ascertain the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner
the same is to be performed, by an instrument in writing under my hand
and seal, and cause the same to be inrolled in His said Majesty's High
Court of Chancery within six calendar months next and immediately after
the date of the said Letters Patent, and all liberties and advantages what-
soever thereby granted should utterly cease, determine, and become void,
anything therein-before contained to the contrary thereof in anywise notwith-
standing, as in and by the said Letters Patent, relation being thereunto had,
may more fully and at large appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in fulfilment of the said proviso, I, the said
John Heathcoat, bave executed this Instrument, by which I do declare that
my present improvements are applicable to a machine for making bobbin lace,
for which His Majesty granted me Letters Patent on the Twentieth day of
March, One thousand eight hundred and nine, and also another further Patent
for improvements thereupon, dated the Twenty-ninth March, One thousand
eight hundred and thirteen.

page_text: The object of my present improvements is to enable the machine to weave
figures and ornamental patterns in the lace net by interlaying thick threads
(which are called gimp thread or giinps) between those threads which form
the texture of the lace; and also by interweaving threads into the lace in
imitation of that kind of ornament in lace which is called clothwork.
My improvements consist,
First, in a new application of additional parts, which have similar properties
to those parts of my former inachine which are called the guides or tubes; the
said additional guides are adapted to supply the gimp threads or gimps to the
lace as it is worked.
Secondly, in applying certain machinery to give such motions to the said
additional and newly applied guides as will interweave the gimp in such
mariner as to form the desired pattern.
•
The machine to which I apply such improvements is described in the
Specification of my Patent of the Twentieth of March, One thousand eight
hundred and nine, which Specification bears date the Sixteenth day of Septem-
ber, and was inrolled in the Court of Chancery on the Eighteenth of Sep-
tember, One thousand eight hundred and nine; also, certain improvements
and additions thereto are fully described in the Specification of my Patent
of the Twenty-ninth of March, One thousand eight hundred and thirteen,
which Specification was likewise enrolled in the Court of Chancery on the
Twenty-ninth day of May, One thousand eight hundred and thirteen. Now
to avoid the necessity of referring to different Deeds, I have hereunto annexed
Drawing of iny machine for making bobbin lace net in its improved state,
with the present improvements for working figures or patterns applied thereto.
The said machine also contains some improvements for producing the turn-
again or selväge, but I do not hereby claim the same. I confine my present
claim to the improvements by which the said improved machine is made to
work figures or ornaments in the lace.
DESCRIPTION OF THE LACE MACHINE.
The texture of bobbin net or lace is represented in Sheet III. The net is
composed of two systems of threads, the longitudinal threads (coloured red)
which proceed through the length of the piece, and the diagonal threads
(coloured blue) which proceed across the breadth thereof in a diagonal direction
from one selvage to the other, and then turn round the extreme longitudinal
thrunde in order to żatnum diaconallu carose the piece in the onosite direction.

page_text: consists of four twisted sides and two crossed sides. The twisted sides are
formed by the union of the diagonal and longitudinal threads, and they
compose four sides of each hexagon. These twists are connected together by
crossing the diagonal threads over each other, and the crosses form the
two remaining sides of the hexagon, viz. the top and bottom. Those threads
which are to form the longitudinal threads in the lace are warped upon the
thread roller or beam (see Sheet I.), and hence are called beam threads.
From this beam the threads are carried up through the tubes or thread guides
46 to the line, which is called the central line of the machine. In this
line the union of all the threads is effected, and the lace is formed. As fast
as the lace is formed it is taken up by the lace roller. The beam threads
are kept separate from each other at the central line by the points, which are
pins cast in what are called leads, at the rate of ten in an inch, or any other
number, according to the gauge of the machine, but for explanation I shall
consider the machine herein described as a guage of ten per inch. The leads
are screwed to the point bar E so as to make a regular row of points, extending
the width of the machine. The guides 46 are small wires, with holes like
needle eyes through the upper ends, and these wires are likewise cast in leads,
ten in an inch, which leads are screwed to the thread guide bars 24 and 25, to
form two rows. The beam threads are twenty in every inch of width, one
half of which number is carried through the front guides, and the other
half through the back guides; every other or alternate thread. on the beam
being carried through the eyes of the front guides, and the intermediate and
remaining threads through the eyes of the back guide. Both front and back
guides are capable of shogging, that is, moving horizontally end ways, and
thus the guides and threads of one row can be inade to fall exactly behind
the guides and threads of the other row, so that only ten per inch will be
seen in front. This produces spaces between the beam threads of double the
width they would be if all the threads were in one row. Those threads which
are to traverse the piece of lace diagonally are kept in store upon separate
Each bobbin is
bobbins, O & 41, and are hence called bobbin threads.
mounted in a detached frame of metal called a brass, and each brass is made
sufficiently thin to be capable of passing through the spaces between the
beam threads whenever the back row is shogged exactly behind the front row.
As there must be twenty bobbin threads in an inch, to correspond with the
beam threads, the brasses are placed side by side, in two distinct rows or
divisions, one of which divisions is placed before the other, as at O & 41. The
brasses in each row are ten in an inch, but being very thin they do not touch
each other. The spaces between the brasses are situated exactly oposite

page_text: to the beam threads; hence, if the row of brasses is presented to the row of
beam threads, the brasses may be passed between the threads. To retain the
brasses at equal distances they are made to slide in grooves formed across
the length of bars called the comb bars or conducting bars. The grooves are
formed by metal plates cast into lead, to hold them together in rows, with
proper intervals or spaces between each plate, to form grooves to receive and
guide the brasses. Four rows of such combs are formed upon four bars
G, G, g. 9, which are called conducting or comb bars. The two bars G, G, in
front of the beam thread are firmly screwed together by pieces of metal 15,
called the saddles, and the two back bars 9, 9, are united in like manner.
For the distinction I call the front pair G, G, the conducting bars, and the
back pair 9, g, the comb bars, but the two bars of each pair may be considered
as one comb, having an opening cut through it, the use of which will be
herein-after explained. The spaces of the conducting bars in front and the
comb bars at the back exactly correspond, so that the brasses can pass out
of the grooves of the conducting bar between the bean threads, and be received
into the combs bars, or vice versa. The four bars are arranged at equal
distances from the central line e, already described, so that every bobbin
moves in the arch of a circle, of which the bobbin thread in the radius, and,
in consequence, the threads do not become tight and slack when the bobbins
move, but always preserve a regular tension. The saddles 15 have round
pins or pivots projecting from them, which are supported in pieces 12 screwed
to the end standards. Each pair of bars is thus supported steadily, and can
be occasionally lifted out to repair them. The bars have likeways a shogging
motion upon these pivots, horizontally, in the direction of their length. The
shogging motion of the comb bars as the back is only used for adjustment of
the machine by regulating screws, which pass through the saddles 15, and the
ends bear against the inside of the standards in working. The comb bars are
immoveable. The conducting bars in front have liberty of shogging on their
pivots two spaces of the combs, that is, two tenths of an inch. The shogging
is produced by the racking lever 19, which is a lever mounted upon a center
pin fixed in the end standard. It is actuated by a horizontal lever 22, which
moves on a fulcrum H by a handle 22. The racking lever has a wedge.
formed at the upper end, which, when the handle 22 is drawn outwards,
introduces itself between the saddle and the end standard, and shogs the
conducting bars G, G, to the right hand, but a spring is applied to carry the
bars to the left when the handle 22 is put backwards. A regulating lever 21
is applied against a pin, projecting from the racking lever, and is borne
upward by a spring. It moves on a center pin fixed to the front of the frame,

page_text: and at the end it has a piece of iron plate with three notches, which are cut
at such distances that shifting the racking lever one notch will shog the con-
ducting bars exactly one tenth. The notches also detain the racking lever,
except when the handle 22 is moved.
FETCHERS AND SHIFTING BARS.
The brasses are moved in the combs and pushed between the beam threads
from the conducting bars to the comb bars, and vice versa, by means of rulers
or bars called shifting bars and fetchers, and the brasses have notches in each
end to admit the edges of the shifting bars and fetchers. When the brasses
of either division are ranged in a row, if a fetcher or shifting bar is put into
the notches, the whole row becomes connected together and can be moved all
at once in the combs. When the brasses are to be disengaged the fetcher or
shifting bar can be lifted up out of the notches of the brasses. There are two
fetchers, 36 in front and 63 at back; also two shifting bars, 37 in front and
73 at back. A fetcher and a shifting bar is provided for each division of
brasses; thus, when the back division of brasses O is in the conducting bars,
they are engaged by the front shifting bar 37 and are pushed between the beam
threads; when they are half through, the back fetcher 63 is put into the notches
of the brasses, and 37 being lifted up to disengage the brasses from it, they
can be drawn through into the back combs. The parts relating to this action
are distinguished in the Drawings by a dark yellow-colour. The front division.
of brass 41 is operated upon by the fetcher 36 when in front, and by the
shifting bar 73 when. behind; these parts are distinguished by a brighter
yellow. The fetcher 36 and shifting bar 37, in front of the machine, are both
carried by a round bar 30, situated in front of the machine; and there is
another similar bar behind to carry the back fetcher 63 and back shifting bar
78. The round bar is fastened at its ends to arms 6, and these again are
fastened to arnis 5, which are fitted upon center pins or axles fixed into the end
standards, in a line exactly coincident with the central line on which the
lace is formed, the arins 5 and 6 being firmly fixed together. The motion of
the round bars 30 will be in an arch of a circle round the central line, and all
the parts which are firmly fixed to the round bars must likewise describe ares
of circles round the central line.

page_text: For this purpose a link is jointed to the lower end of each of the arms 5 to
connect them with the upper ends of the bent levers L and 39, which are
mounted upon center pins fixed in the frame, at each end of the machine,
two of the bent levers L, L, are linked to the arms 5 of the front bar 30, and
the horizontal arms of these levers have a cross bar N extended beneath the
machine to unite the two levers. The right treadle No. 2 is linked to the
middle of the cross bar N, therefore by pressing down the treadle the bar N
will be depressed, and by the links of connection the front round bar 30 will
be made to descend, carrying its fetcher 36 and shifting bar 37 towards the
beam threads. To cause the return of these parts when the treadle is released,
a balance lever is applied beneath each of the levers L, and connected with
them by links. The oposite ends of these levers have a heavy bar extended
between them for a balance weight; or otherways spiral wire springs may
be suspended from the ceiling and hooked to the ends of the arms 6 to lift
them upwards. The levers 38 & 39 are linked to the arms 5, which belong
to the back round bar 30. They are united by the cross bar 40, which is
connected with one end of the lever K, and from the oposite end of the same
lever a link descends to a counter lever k, which is connected with the left
treadle No. 1. When the left treadle is pressed down, its lever k draws up the
cross bar 40, and this makes the back round bar 30 descend and its fetcher 63
and shifting bar 78 approach the beam threads. The weight of the bar 40
acts as a counterweight to cause the return of the parts when the treadle is
released, or springs may be applied from the ceiling.
MACHINERY OF THE FETCHERS.
Each fetcher 36 or 63 has a projecting arm at both ends, which arms are
connected with the round bar 80 by center screws m. fixed in the upper ends
of short standards l. These standards are formed in one piece with the round
bar 30, and rise up from it, as shewn in the front view Fig. 2. On theso
center screws m the fetcher 36 can be lifted up to take it out of the notches of
the brasses, or it can be let down into the same.
60 is a curved lever with a
It is fitted on the center screw
handle in front to lift up the front fetcher 36.
m of the right-hand standard I, and the curved end lies beneath the fetcher 36,
so that by depressing the handle the fetcher will be lifted up. The back
fetcher 63 is lifted by a handle and lever 61, which is connected with a lever
62, called a major. The major is moveable on a pin fixed into the standard,
and the end lies beneath a pin projecting from the end of the fetcher 68; by
35 is a
pressing down the bandle 61, the back fetcher 68 will be lifted up.
rest piece screwed on the top of each of the standards l. It projects inwards,

page_text: the fetcher from falling down so low as to touch the comos when the prasses
are not beneath it.
MACHINERY OF THE SHIFTING BARS.
Each shifting bar 37 or 73 has short arms rising from its ends, almost
perpendicularly. 34 are rounds rods, which are fixed fast into these arms and
project outwards. The rods are received into sockets 31, which are mounted
upon joints formed out of the round bar 30, at n. It is upon these joints n
that the shifting bar is lifted up to release the brasses from it, for although the
connexion from the joints n to the ruler or shifting bar 37 is circuitous by the
sockets 31, the rods 34, and the perpendicular arms of the bar, still there is no
flexure in those parts, hence the shifting bar can be lifted up upon the centers
n to take it in or out of the notches of the brasses; also by moving upon these
centers the shifting bar can be dropped down into the space between the con-
ducting bar G, G, as is shown at 37, Fig. 4. This is done to get the bar 37
out of the way of the front row of brasses 41, when they are to be introduced
between the beam threads after the back row O has been drawn through
between the beam threads into the back combs bars g, g, as shewn in Fig. 4.
Sheet II. If the shifting bar 87, after being disengaged from the brasses O,
was to remain before the brasses 41, in the position of Fig. 1, it would prevent
the brasses 41 from advancing between the beam threads. The shifting bar
37 is therefore dropped down into the space between the conducting bars
G, G, as shown in Fig. 4, Sheet II., and then it will be sunk below the level
of the combs, and the row of brasses 41 will pass over the shifting bar 37
without touching it. As the shifting bar cannot move whilst it is in the space
its connection with the round bar 30 must not be continued after the bar 87
is dropped into the space, otherwise the motion of the round bar 30 would be
prevented. For this purpose the rods 34 are fitted into the sockets 31, so as
to slide freely through the same; but there are moveable stoppers 32 which
lock the rods 34 fast in their sockets whenever the shifting bar is lifted up to
be engaged with the brasses. Each of the rods 34 has a screw tapped into
the end, the head of which is larger than the rod, and prevents the rod from
being drawn through the socket. The head of this screw is locked by the
stopper 32, when the round bars 30 are raised to the greatest distance from
the conducting bars, which position is shewn by the front bar 30, in Fig. 1.
The stopper 32 is placed against the front of 31, and is fitted upon a screw at
the lower end as a center of motion. The upper end of the stopper is adapted
to cover the head of the screw in the rod 34, and prevent the return of the

page_text: screw or rod from the socket, until the stopper is withdrawn; hence it is only
necessary that the stopper shall be moved clear from screw at the end of the
rod 34, in order to allow the rod free motion in the socket 31, whenever the
shifting bar 37 is dropped into the space between the conducting bars; but
whenever the shifting bar 37 is lifted up out of the space, the stopper 32 must
be placed across the screw head to hold the rod fast in the socket. To give
action to the stopper an arm æ, Fig. 2, projects from it and bears upon a stop
pin, which projects outwards from the round bar 30, as is shewn at w, in
Fig. 1. Now, if the long fetcher 37 is lifted up by depressing the handle 64,
the socket 31 and the stopper 32, together with the rods 34, will move round
the center n, but the stop pin w, projecting from the round bar 30, holds up
the arm of the stopper 32, and throws the upper end of the stopper over the
head of the screw, at the end of the rod 34, and locks the same fast into the
socket 31. On the contrary, when the handle 64 is released, and the fetcher
37 lowered down into the space between the conducting bars, the armix of the
stopper receeds from the stop pin w, which allows the stopper to fall back by
its own weight, and the upper end of it moves clear away from the screw in
the end of the rod 34, leaving the same at liberty to slide freely in the socket.
The structure of the back fetcher 73 and its socket 31 is the same as the
front, except that a major 72 is used to lift it up, instead of the handle like
64. The handle 71 is connected by a link to the major 72, which is the same
as the major 62, except that it is longer.
ACTION OF THE MACHINERY FOR MOVING THE BRASSES BETWEEN THE
BEAM THREADS.
The workman must place himself on the seat with his feet upon the treadles.
Suppose that both divisions of brasses are in front in the conducting bars G, G,
that the back shifting bar 73 is in the space between the comb bars g, g, that
the left treadle is depressed and the back round bar 30 thereby drawn down
until the back fetcher 63 comes near the beam threads into the position
shewn in Fig. 1. (Note, this position is determined by the bent lever 39
coming against a stop piece, which is screwed to the frame. Beginning at
this position, I shall give directions for passing both divisions of brasses in
succession between the beam threads into the comb bars 9, 9, and then
to return them back again into the conducting bars. It should be observed,
that every time either division of the brasses are passed between the threads
the thread guider must previously be shogged; but this will be hereafter
explained, the present directions being only for passing the brasses.

page_text: he
I. Depress the handle 61 to raise up the back fetcher 63 by the major 62;
(hold it so raised during the next movement.
II. Press the right treadle to draw down the front round bar 30. This
motion is communicated to the front fetcher 36 and front shifting bar 37, and
they push the brasses 0 and 41 back in the conducting bars G, G, until the
back division of brasses 0 enter between the beam threads to the central
position. Note.-This position is determined by stops fixed to the back
arms 5, with proper projection to intercept the front arms 5.
III. Release the handle 61, and the back notches of the brasses O being
immediately beneath the edge of the back fetcher 63, the back fetcher falls
ads into the notches, as shewn in Fig. 3, Sheet II.
che
t
he
IV. Depress the handle 64 to raise the front shifting bar 37 out of the front
notches of the brasses O. Note. The back division O is now transferred
from the front shifting bar 37 to the back fetcher 63.
V. Relieve the left treadle, and the weight of the bar 40 will draw the 1
back division O back into the comb bars g, g. Note.-During this motion
the back shifting bar 73 being in the space between the comb bars, the
back socket 31 slides upon the rod.34.
The thread guides 46 are next shogged, as will be more fully described, and
then the front division 41 is to be passed between the beam threads. Note.-2
Preparatory to this the front shifting bar 37 must be let fall into the space
between the conducting bars G, G, by movements 6 & 7.
VI. Release the right treadle to bring forwards the front round bar 30,
until the front shifting bar 37 is just over the space between the conducting
bars G, G. Then,-
VII. Release the handle 64 to let the front shifting bar 37 drop into the
space between the conducting bars. This position is shewn in Fig. 4.
Note. The front shifting bar 37 is now removed out of the way, and the
stoppers 32 fall back from before the ends of the rod 34, as before described.
2
VIII. Press down the right treadle to push back the front brasses 41 in 3
the conducting bars, until they enter between the beam threads to the central
ads position.
16 IX. Depress the handle 71 to raise the back shifting bar 73 out of the
space between the comb bars 9, 9.
X. Depress the left treadle to bring the back shifting bar 73 forwards, 3
until it is over the back notches of the brasses 41, as shewn in Fig. 5..
XI. Release the handle 71 to drop the back shifting bar 73 into the
back notches of the brasses 41.

page_text: XII. Depress the handle 60 to raise the front fetcher 36 out of the front
notches of the brasses 41. Note.--The front brasses 41 are now transferred
from the front fetchers 36 to the back shifting bar 73.
XIII. Release the left treadle to draw back the brasses 41 through the
beam threads into the comb bars g, g. Note.-Both divisions of brasses are
now behind in the comb bars g, 9, and after the requisite shog of the thread
guides 46 is made, the brasses may be returned into the conducting bar G, G,
by repeating the foregoing movements in a reversed order thus. Note.-It is
supposed that the handle 60 has been kept down since the XIIth movement,
but if not, it must now be depressed to lift up to the front fetcher 36.
XIV. Depress the left treadle to bring forwards both divisions of brasses,
till the front division 41 enters between the beam threads to the central
position, and the front notches thereof come beneath the front fetcher 36.
XV. Release the handle 60 to drop the front fetcher 36 into the notches of
the brasses 41.
XVI. Depress the handle 71 to raise the back shifting bar 73 out of the
notches of the brasses 41. Note.-This position is shewn in Fig. 5.
XVII. Release the right treadle to draw forward the front brasses 41 into
the conducting bars G, G. The requisite shog must now be given to the
thread guides 46. Note.-The back shifting bar 37 must first be dropped
into the space in the comb bars g, g, and the front shifting bar 37 must
be lifted out of the space. To do this,―
XVIII. Relieve the left treadle to carry back the back shifting bar 73 over
the space between the comb bars g, g.
XIX. Release the handle 71 to let the back shifting bar 73 drop into the
space. Note.-This brings the parts to the position Fig. 4.
XX. Depress the handle 64 to lift the front shifting bar 37 out of the space
between the conducting bars G, G, and hold it up.
XXI. Depress the left treadle to advance the front division of brasses O
between the beam threads to the central position.
XXII. Depress the right treadle to carry back the front shifting bar 37
till it is over the notches of the brasses.
XXIII. Release the handle 64 to drop the front shifting bar 37 into the
front notches of the brasses. Note.-This is the position of Fig. 3.
XXIV. Depress the handle 61 to lift the back fetcher 63 out of the back
notches of the brasses.
XXV. Release the right treadle to draw forwards the front division through
the beam threads into the conducting bars.
If the handle 61 is released, the machine will be returned to the same state

page_text: as shewn in Fig. 1, and at which I began these directions; but if 61 is not
released, and the passing of the brasses is to be repeated, the first movement
is unnecessary, but all the others must be regularly carried on.
MACHINERY FOR SHOGGING THE GUIDE BARS 24 & 25.
I have before explained that there are two rows of guides 46, each row
having ten guides in an inch; also that the guides of one row and the beam
threads belonging to them can be placed exactly opposite or before the guides
of the other rows. This is in order to obtain wider spaces and permit the
brasses to pass.
It is evident that as long as the thread continues so arranged
the brasses cannot be passed between those threads which are situated one
behind the other. In order to make the brasses pass between such threads,
one row of guide bars is shogged one space endways, whilst the other
remains stationary. The effect of this will be to separate or form spaces
between those threads which were one behind the other in the former instance.
The shogging of the guides is also necessary to twist the bobbin threads round
the beam threads; thus, when the brasses are passed between the threads
from the front to the back, each brass must pass on the left side of that beam
thread round which its bobbin thread is to be twisted. But in returning from
back to front cach brass must pass on the right side of that beam thread
round which its bobbin thread is to be twisted. The front guide bar 24 is
sometimes shogged, and at other times the back guide bar 25. The guide
bars 24 & 25 have straight pins at their ends, and the bars are supported by
these pins passing through holes in plates 3, Sheet I., which are screwed
to the inside of the standards opposite the ends of the bars. The bars have
short arms J descending down from them, and the lower ends of the arms are
received in notches cut in the edge of a plate 27. These arms prevent the
bars turning round upon the pins, but leave them at liberty to shog endways.
75 are small pieces screwed to the arms J, J, of the bars 24 and 25, and
extending through the standard. They have small rollers in the ends to bear
against the edges of wheels 74 fixed upon an horizontal spindle situated at
the right-hand end of the machine, as represented in the Plan, Fig. 7,
Sheet III. The wheels 74 are cut into steps upon the circumference, and
springs are applied at the left ends of the guide bars 24 and 25 to force them
always towards the wheels, which, as they turn round, present their different
steps in succession to the rollers of the pieces 75, and produce the required
shogging of the bars 24 & 25. The wheels 74 are turned round by means of
a ratchet wheel 76 fixed on the same spindle. The teeth of the ratchet are
engaged by a driver jointed to the end of a lever 26, which works upon a pin

page_text: fixed into the standard, and turns the wheel round one tooth at a time. The
spindle of the wheels 74 is supported in a frame attached to the main frame
in a manner which is evident from inspection of Fig. 2 & Fig. 7. Another
wheel may be applied on the spindle of the wheels 74 with steps on its edge
for shogging the conducting bars G, G, at the proper intervals, and in that
case the racking lever 19 and the lever 21 & 22 will not be necessary.
For
this an arm must be carried down from the end of the conducting bars G, G,
similar manner to J, J, to which arm may be connected a piece similar
to 75, with a roller in the end to bear against the edge of the wheel.
in
POINTS AND OTHER MACHINERY FOR CROSSING THE BOBBIN THREADS AND FOR
TAKING UP THE MESHES.
The row of points before mentioned is called the upper points, to distinguish
from another row of points which is situated immediately beneath the former,
and are called the crossing points. The crossing points are much longer than
the others, they are cast in leads 10 per inch, and screwed in a row on a point
bar 10. The point bars E & 10 are both suspended on pivots, which are
fixed in the arnis 9 of separate crank bars; that which suspends the upper
point bar E is marked 9 D, and is shewn in Fig. 2; the other crank bar for
the point bar 10 is similar, but situated further behind, and the point bar 10
has an arm proceeding from each end to extend to its crank. The crank bars
themselves arc suspended on pivots, which pass through arms proceeding
from the standard. a is a handle screwed to the point bar E, & C 10 is a
handle for the crossing points; these handles give motion to the points from
the front. The handles are borne upwards by wire springs suspended from
the ceiling, and stop screws are provided to regulate the ascent of the points.
This mode of suspending the points by crank bars allows the points to be put
backwards or forwards, or up and down, but they will always preserve their
paralelism. The crossing points are longer than the other, and each pin or
point has small groove or channel cut in it on the upper side, and extending
about half its length from the leads towards the sharp point; these channels
are adapted to receive the extremities of the upper points, as I shall further
explain. The crossing points effect three very essential purposes in the
formation of the lace: they cross the bobbin threads over each other in order to
make the crosses which form the top and bottom of each nesh. The same
points when they have made such crosses take up and draw them close, and in
so doing they also take up and draw close the twists made by the bobbin
threads passing round the beam threads. This closing of the twists and
crosses gives form to a row of half meshes. The crossing points also retain

page_text: the meshes in an extended state during the succeeding operation of twisting.
The upper points are substituted for the crossing points whenever it becomes
necessary for the crossing points to be disengaged in order to repeat their
action of crossing and taking up. Every time that the crossing and taking up
are performed by the crossing points, a course is said to be worked. The
pivots on which the crossing point bar 10 is suspended in the crank bar admit
of a shogging motion in those points. When the points have been brought
down and are in the act of rising up again, they are subjected to successive
shogs by the steps in the edge of the conducting plate 14, Fig. 2, which plate
is placed on a pin y fixed to the standard. A spring is applied to draw the
steni of the handle C 10 of the point bar 10 towards the edge of the conducting
plate until it bears against it; there is another back conducting plate placed
behind the plate 14, the edge of which is curved so as to regulate the motion
of the points in advancing forwards in the act of taking up the crosses and
twists. The upper point bar E has a small projecting piece screwed on it at
the back, and the crossing point bar 10 has a similar piece which turns up by
the side of the former with a screw through it. The point of this screw bears
against the former piece by the action of the same spring, which causes the
lower points to bear towards the edge of the conducting plate 14. The offico
of this screw is to regulate the channels of the crossing points so as to bring
them exactly beneath the upper points when the crossing points are up: The
crossing points are made to operate after the twisting of the bobbin threads is
finished, and after both the divisions of brasses are brought in front into the
conducting bars, as shewn in Fig. 1. The workman takes the handle C 10
and pushes it back so as to withdraw the crossing points from between the
threads. The crossing points are lowered down behind and clear of the beam
threads until they are low enough to be brought forward, so as to enter between
the threads' beneath the twists; the manner of this is shewn by the dotted lines
in Fig. 1. Note.-The descent of the points is limited by the stem of the han-
dle C 10 bearing against the edge of the conducting plate 14, & coming down
to stop on a projecting part of the same. When the points are thus entered
between the twists they are raised upwards, and they carry the twists up before
them; in rising up, the back conducting plate guides the point gradually forwards,
so that the points will enter between the threads of the back division of brasses 0;
but the same conducting plate does not allow the points to advance so as to
enter between the threads of the front division 41 until they have risen higher
up, and in so rising up the step part of the conducting plate 14 shogs the points
to the left 1 space, and they carry the threads of the back division. with. them..
After this is done; the points in rising further up take the threads of the front.

page_text: division, and when they have taken them the cross is effected. The points
then rise still higher; in so doing, the inclined part of the conducting plate
shogs them back one space to the right, they then carry up the crossing and
also the twists to the central line. The crossing points hold up these twists
and crosses whilst the machine proceeds to twist for another course, until one
division of brasses is in front and the other at the back, as shewn in Fig. 4.
The upper points are put back out of the finished meshes which no longer
require to be retained, and the points are introduced into the channels in the
upper sides of the crossing points, in which channels they are slided forward
so as to take the meshes from the crossing points; this leaves the crossing
points at liberty to descend and take up fresh crosses, in the manner before
described. The conducting plate 14 is moveable upon the pin y by which it is
attached to the standard as upon a center of motion. A tail or lever 13
descends down from the conducting plate, and is connected with the front
thread guide bar 24. So often, therefore, as the bar 24 is moved to the right
or left, the plate 14 will be moved laterally on the center pin in an opposite
direction. The center of motion y is situated opposite to that part of the
conducting plate, where the handle C 10 will bear against the edge of it at the
time that the points enter between the beam threads. The length of the
descending tail or lever must be equal to the distance from the said part to
the upper step of the conducting plate where the last shog of the point bar is
effected. The consequence is, that the part of the plate which guides the
point bar at the time when the points enter between the beam threads will
bave no lateral motion, and that the lateral motion of the upper step will be
equal to the shog of the bar 24. The crossing points may be made to descend
lower than represented in Fig. 1, when they are entered between the beam
threads, provided the back fetcher 63 is removed out of the way previously to
taking up. The manner of doing this is shewn in Fig. 6; the back round
bar 30 is carried back until the fetcher 63 is beyond the back comb bar g,
and the fetcher is then let fall, as shewn in the Figure; for this purpose, the
stop 35 must be fitted upon a center pin at the top of the standard 7, instead
of being screwed fast upon the same as before described. The stop 35 has an
arm projecting from it at right angles, as shewn at 78, Fig. R, which is a plan
of it; a fixed picce 79 is screwed to the frame of the machine, and when the
round bar 30 is carried back to the proper distance, as in Fig. 6, the arm 78
of the stop 35 meets the fixed piece 79, and moves 35 round on its center pin,
as in Fig. R, so that it will be withdrawn from beneath the arm of the
fetcher 63, which then falls as in Fig. 6. The descent of the fetcher is limited
by the major 72, which is prolonged for that purpose.
When the taking up

page_text: is finished, the handle 71 must be depressed, and the end of the major 72 will
lift up the back fetcher 63 until it is raised above the level of the back comb
bar 9, then the fetcher is to be brought forwards, and as soon as the arm 78 of
the stop 35 quits the fixed piece 79, the stop will resume its place beneath the
arm of the fetcher 63, as shewn by dotted lines in Fig. R, by the action of a
spring 80.
MACHINERY FOR PRODUCING THE TURNAGAIN OR SELVAGE.
In order to explain this, it will be necessary to premise that, as the diagonal
direction given to the bobbin thread requires that one division of the bobbins
should have a progressive motion to the right and the other division to the
left, it follows that whenever the extreme bobbin of either division arrives at
the corresponding selvage or edge of the lace, the said extreme brass must be
made to return in the opposite direction, which is done by taking the extreme
brass from that division of brasses in which it has been previously employed
and transferring to the other division. To effect the transfer of the end
brasses from one division to the other, the fetchers 36 & 63 have notches or
spaces, equal in width to the thickness of a brass, cut transversely across them.
Into these spaces are fitted pieces of metal, called slides, which can be let
down to close the notches when the fetcher is required to act upon the whole
division of brasses, or the sliders can be drawn up and the notches left open;
consequently, when the brasses are drawn through between the seam threads,
those brasses which are opposite to the notches will not be operated upon by
the fetchers, but will be left behind in the central position, whilst all the other
brasses of the same division will be drawn through by the fetcher. The
brasses thus left behind from one division may be taken into the other division,
when the same is moved into the central position; but in doing so the fetcher
of the last-mentioned division must have its sliders raised up until they are
brought over the notche in the brasses to which they apply. When the
machine is employed to make separate breadths of lace, what I have mentioned
as referring to the brasses of a whole piece will be true of the brasses of
every separate breadth, and the fetcher must have a slider in it, at the
extremity or edge of each breadth. The construction of these sliders is
explained in Fig. 8, Sheet III. Each notch in the fetcher has two small
grooves cut withinside to guide the slider e, which has a small fillet formed on
each edge to enter these grooves, and the slider is thus held steadily in the
notch with liberty to slide up and down freely. When drawn up the sliders
open the notches so high that the brasses will escape their action. f is a
lifting bar for the slide e. It is bent so as to adapt itself to the angle of the

page_text: fetcher 36. The bar f has notches in it through which the upper ends of the
sliders c; e, are received, and a pin is put through each slide e above the
surface off. The lifting bar f is supported by an arm g proceeding from it at
cach end, and these arms are attached to the insides of the arms of the fetcher
36 by screws, on which the bar f can be lifted up as a center of motion.
A pin p projects from the middle of the lifting bar f, and the extremity of a
lever applies beneath this pin to raise up the lifting bar and the sliders. The
fulcrum of the lever is a small standard rising up from the round bar 30.
The lever for-lifting the sliders in front is marked Q, and is plainly shewn in
Fig. 1 & 2. The back lever P is connected by a rod q with a. lever. W,
which is suspended over the machine, and has a handle R hanging down.from
it in front. A notch furnished with a slider e is formed at about every inch
on the fetcher, and any of these can be brought into action at pleasure
by applying the pins to them, but by removing the pins from any of the
sliders e they will not then be raised by the lifting bar f. This affords the
means of making breadths of lace of any number of inches in width.
I have now described all the parts of the machine, except such parts as
constitute my present improvements, and which will be described herein-after.
I shall proceed to give directions for working the machine.
I shall suppose the machine is filled with threads, and that a portion of lace
has been already worked. I shall begin these directions when the machine is
in the following position, viz, the taking up is just finished, and both divisions
of brasses are in front in the conducting bars G, G, as is represented in Fig..1.
The back division of brasses has one more brass in each breadth than the
front division, and the odd brasses are at the left-hand edge of each breadth.
The conducting bars G, G, are in the intermediate position in respect. to
shogging, and are therefore capable of shogging either to the right one space
or to the left one space. Note, both rows of guides are filled with. threads
from the beam. The front guides are shogged to the right. Note, they are
only capable of shogging one space. The back guides are in the middle
position with respect to shogging, and are therefore capable of shogging either
to the right one space or to the left one space. Beginning at this. stage I
shall give directions for working two successive courses. One of these courses
is called. the: turnagain course, because, during the working of it, the turn-
again.motion is effected. The other course I call the uninterrupted course,
because, during the working of it, there is no interruption to effect the turn-
again.
It is not necessary to detail all the movements of the treadles and handles
for moving the brasses, because I have herein-before given. full directions for

page_text: performing the same; and when it is directed to pass either of the divisions
between the threads, the workman will be thereby instructed how to perform
the same.
1st. Shog the conducting bars to the left.
2d. Shog the front guides to the left.
3d. Pass the back division of brasses between the beam threads into the
comb bars.
4th. Shog the back guides to the left.
5th. Take the odd brasses of the back division (which are at the left edge of
each breadth) into the front division. Note.-To do this, advance the front
division to the central position, lift up the sliders in the back fetcher 68, by
pulling down the handle R, then carry back the back division, & the odd
brasses will be left between in the central position. Lift up the sliders of the
front fetcher 36 by pressing handle Q, put back the front division to the
central position, and the odd brasses which remained in the central position
will be taken into it. Let down the sliders of the front fetcher 36 by
releasing the handle Q, and bring forwards that fetcher, and it will draw
forwards the whole front division with the odd braces included in it.
6th. Restore the conducting bars to the middle position.
7th. Shog the front guides to the right; and
8th. Restore the back guides to the middle position.
9th. Pass the front division into the back.
10th. Shog the front guides to the left.
11th. Return the front division into the front.
12th. Shog the front guides to the right.
13th. Pass the front division of brasses through into the back.
14th. Shog the front guides to the left.
15th. Bring the front division into the front, but previous to employing the
front fetcher 36 lift up the slides in that fetcher by pressing the handle Q.
Note. This leaves the odd brasses of the front division (which are at the right-
hand end of each breadth) in the central position, when the front division
comes through the beam thread.
16th. Take the odd brasses into the back division; for this, lift up the sliders
in the back fetcher 68 by drawing the handle R, and bring forwards the. back
division by that fetcher to the central position, the odd brasses will be taken
into the back division; then let down the sliders in the back fetcher 68,
carry back the back division, and it will take the odd brasses with it.
17th. Take up with the upper points in the manner shewn at Fig. 4.
18th. Shog the back guides to the left.

page_text: 19th. Bring the back division forwards into the front.
20th. Restore the back guides to the middle position.
21. Take up the crossings by the crossing points. Note.-The turnagain course
is now finished, and the uninterrupted course may be continued as follows:-
I. Shog the front guides to the right.
II. Pass the back division into the back combs.
III. Shog the back guides to the right.
IV. Slog the conducting bars to the right.
V. Pass the front division through into the back.
VI. Restore the conducting bars to the middle position.
VII. Restore the back guides to the middle position.
VIII. Bring the front division into the front.
IX. Shog the back guides to the right.
X. Pass the front division into the back.
XI. Restore the back guides to the middle position.
XII. Bring the front division into the front.
XIII. Take up the work by the top points.
XIV. Shog the front guides to the left.
XV. Bring the back division into the front.
XVI. Shog the front guides to the right.
XVII. Take up the crossing by the crossing points.
The uninterrupted course is now finished, and the machine is in the proper
position to repeat the working of the turnagain course by following the
directions before given. As the shogging of both thread guide bars 24 & 25
is performed by the wheels 74, the workman will not have so many movements
to make as are herein directed; but I have specified the shog which is to be
given to each of the guide bars at every period as instructions for forming the
steps of the wheels 74 to produce the desired effect. Note.-One of the
threads of the back thread guides at each selvage will not be twisted into the
texture of the lace, but will merely be hanked to the adjacent edges of each
breadth or piece of lace, so as to unite the same together during the working,
but these threads can be withdrawn after the lace is finished to separate the
breadths. In order to finish the selvages with neatness these connecting
threads should be furnished in a greater proportion than the beam threads,
and for this purpose a separate roller or beam may be applied to furnish such
connecting threads. When the machine is worked according to the foregoing
lirections it will produce plain bobbin net by twisting the bobbin threads with
the beam threads to form the twists of the meshes, and by crossing the
liagonal threads over each other to form the crosses.

page_text: It now remains to show how the gimp is worked into such net in figures and
patterns by means of the improvements which are the subject of the present
Patent, for I wish to be understood that I do not by these Presents claim the
Inventions herein-before described. In Buckinghamshire lace the gimp is fixed in
the lace, not by twisting it with the threads, but by passing sometimes between
those threads which form the twists of the meshes, and at other times between the
threads of the crosses, in either case it is the tension of the thread which holds
the gimp fast in the place assigned to it. To obtain the pattern or figure the
gimp is made to pass from one mesh to another in one of the three following
directions, viz: longitudinally, horizontally, and diagonally. The gimp is laid
in these directions, and changed from one direction into another for the
purpose of forming such curves, angles, or lines, as may be necessary to form
the required pattern or figure. To produce the ramifications which are
required in many patterns, several gimps are employed together in the same
figure, and each gimp is made to proceed in curves, angles, or lines, according
to that part of the figure which it is calculated to produce.
IMPROVEMENTS BY WHICH FIGURES AND ORNAMENTS ARE WORKED IN THE LACE.
I obtain similar effects to the above in my machine by means of the gimp
guides and the machinery which gives motion to them; these gimp guides are
similar to the beam thread guides which have been described before. The
bars upon which the gimp guides are fastened are supported upon the
pins, so as to admit of a shogging motion similar to that of the thread guide
bars, but allowing a greater range of motion. The machine represented in
the Drawings hereunto annexed has four gimp bars applied to it, viz.,
81, 82, 83, & 84, see Fig. 1 and Fig. 7, but a greater number of gimp bars
may be applied to a machine. The machinery for giving the shogging motion
to the bars carrying the gimp guides may be constructed in different ways.
The most simple is, to apply a separate handle for each bar, which, being
moved to the right or to the left, will produce a corresponding shog of the
bars. The handles may be either connected immediately with the bars or
applied to racking levers, in the same manner as the conducting bars herein-
before described, or other equivalent parts may be used. In either case a
gauge must be provided for each handle or for each bar, by means of which
the motion of the bars shall be measured and determined. These gauges
must be constructed so to hold the guides that the spaces between the eyes of
the guides shall coincide with the grooves of the conducting and comb
bars, and allow free passage for the brasses between the threads. The ginip
bars may otherwise be shogged by means of rosetts or jagged wheels, some-

page_text: what similar to those described for shogging the beam thread guide bars. A
machine should be furnished with several gimp bars, but the precise number
of bars and of gimps in each bar will depend upon the number and arrange-
ment of the gimps which the pattern or figure may require. The gimps are
kept in store upon small rollers or beams situated in the lower part of the
machine, as is shewn in Sheet I., and from thence the gimps are carried up
through the gimp guides to the central line where the lace is formed. The
gimp is laid between the threads of the lace by shogging the gimp bars at
intervals during the other operations of working the machine, and by the
progressive formation of the lace. After the gimp is laid between the threads,
it becomes firmly woven into the texture of the lace. The gimp proceeds from
one mesh to another by such a succession of steps in different directions as will
produce the required pattern or course of the gimp in the lace. It will
simplify the explanation of my improvements to consider the action of a
single gimp, because when it is shewn how a single gimp can be laid in the lace
and made to proceed therein in different directions, an infinite variety of
patterns may be made by multiplying the gimps and diversifying their changes
of direction. First, to lay a gimp in the lace horizontally across the width
thereof between the longitudinal and diagonal threads:-If the gimp is to be
carried in a direction from right to left, this will be most readily effected in
working the uninterrupted course, which is to be carried on as usual until the
period when both divisions of brasses are brought into the conducting bars
ready for crossing and taking up. Then the gimp guide must be shogged as
many spaces to the left as is necessary to lay the gimp the required horizontal
distance. When the crossing points are entered between the beam threads,
they must be carried down as near to the guides as possible, in the manner
shewn in Fig. 6, and they will take up that portion of the gimp which has
been carried across the beam threads by the shogging of the ginp guide.
When the crossing points carry up the gimp, it will carry up before it the
twists of the beam and bobbin threads, and when they arrive at the central
line the gimps will become horizontal. The working of the machine being
now continued in the usual manner, it will enclose the gimps between the
diagonal and longitudinal threads; when the gimp is to be laid- horizontally
from left to right, it will be most readily effected in the turnagain course.
Secondly, to lay a gimp longitudinally in the lace between the two diagonal
threads which cross over each other :-To do this, it is requisite when working
the uninterrupted course to make the gimp guides shog along with the
conducting bar; and when working the turnagain course, the gimp guides
must remain stationary. Thirdly, to lay a gimp in the lace in a diagonal

page_text: direction between a diagonal and a longitudinal thread :-A succession of short
horizontal movements must be made and repeated at every two courses;
•hence, the rule is nearly the same as for laying a gimp horizontally. Fourthly,
to conduct a gimp upon the lace from one point to another without laying it
between the threads thereof:-If the gimp guides are shogged when both
divisions of brasses are back in the comb bars g, g, the gimp will only make
a step, or advance without being included between any of the threads of the
lace; hence, the gimp will not be fixed in the lace but will lie loose on the
front of it. This is adopted when the gimp is to be conducted from one
detached figure in order to make another detached figure, and the inter-
mediate loose gimp is afterwards cut off. Observe, in all cases, that the bobbin
threads must not be allowed to go completely round the gimp, but though the
gimp must simply be passed between the threads forming some of the six
sides of the meshes. Hence, the bobbins must be made to pass & repass
continually on the same side of the gimps, excepting only when the gimps are
intended to be laid and included between the threads. When the conducting
bars remain stationary, this end will be attained by the gimp guides remaining
stationary also; but when the conducting bars are shogged, if they have any
brasses in them, they will evidently carry such brasses across the gimp. Now,
-unless the bobbin threads are at that moment required to cross the gimp for
the sake of laying the gimp between the threads, the gimp guides must
be so shogged as to counteract the effect of the shog which is necessarily
-given- to-the conducting bars for the regular working of the machine.
When the pattern is of such a nature as to require two or more gimp
bars, the working of the machine would be intricate if each bar was to be
shogged by a separate handle in addition to the other handles which are
necessary to the working of the machine. In order to avoid this intricacy
in working, the gimp bars may be shogged by means of wheels, as shewn
in Fig. 2 and Fig. 7, at 91, 92, 93, & 94, the edges of which wheels
must be formed into steps or such elevations and depressions as to produce
the shog of the bars at the proper intervals to form the required pat-
terns. Each gimp bar has a separate wheel, but all the wheels are fixed
on the same axle or spindle, which axle is turned round by means of a
toothed wheel 85 fixed upon it, and actuated by a smaller toothed wheel 86,
fixed upon the axle of the notched wheels 74, which gives motion to
the beam thread guides, as before described. The proportionate number
of teeth in each of these wheels should be such as to cause the great
wheel 85 to turn round once in making that number of courses over which the
pattern-extends. As it is impossible.in a Specification to describe all the forms

page_text: and all the combination of forms which every practicable variety of pattern
may require, it will be sufficient to state that the steps of the wheels 92 must
be varied according to the variety of patterns to be produced. The spindle
carrying the great wheels 91 & 85 can be readily removed and other spindles
with different wheels can be substituted, for the purpose of operating upon the
same gimp bars.
Lastly, to interweave threads in the lace, in imitation of that kind of
ornament in lace called clothwork:-A guide bar, similar to the gimp
bars, must be placed behind the beam thread guides 46, and also another
similar bar in front of the beam thread guides. These bars are fur-
nished with threads in a similar manner to the gimp guide bars, but, for
distinction, I call them clothwork bars. When both divisions of the brasses
are in front in the conducting bars, the front clothwork bar is shogged to
any required distance, and the thread which it carries will be thereby laid
between the beam threads and the bobbin threads. Both divisions of the
brasses being then put back into the comb bars (but without any previous
shog of the thread guides) the back clothwork bar is then shogged, and the
thread which it carries will also be laid between the bobbin threads and the
beam threads behind the latter. Both divisions of the brasses are next
brought forward into the conducting bars, and the front clothwork bar is
shogged in a contrary direction to that in which it was first moved. These
operations are to be repeated as often as is required in one course. As often
as the front clothwork bar is shogged, it will be necessary to use the crossing
points to take up that portion of clothwork thread which is laid between the
beam threads and the bobbin threads, to lay it horizontally. This taking up
also restores the cloth threads to a perpendicular direction, without which the
brasses cannot repass. After the back cloth work bar has been shogged, a
set of points somewhat similar to the crossing points are to be used to take up
the clothwork. These points must be placed in front of the machine suspended
in a crank bar, the same as the crossing points. During the time that the
clothworking operation is going on, the ordinary operations of the lace machine
are suspended. The successive shogging of the clothwork bars, and passing
the bobbin, is repeated until as much clothwork is laid as will be equal to
a course or half mesh of the lace. The usual operations for working a course
of lace are then resumed, and the course finished. The clothwork operations
may be repeated at every course, or discontinued according to the required
pattern or ornament, also, that the quantity of shogging motion given to the
clothwork bars at each succeeding time may be varied as the pattern requires.
I have now specified my improvements upon machines or machinery already

page_text: in use for making bobbin net, and do hereby declare that I confine my claim
to the application of guides and other machinery in the manner herein-before
described, for the purpose of interweaving gimp or clothwork into the texture
of the lace, during the working of the same.
In witness whereof, I, the said John Heathcoat, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Twenty-ninth day of April, in the fifty-seventh
year of the reign of King George the Third, and in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventeen.
Staple Inn.
AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the Twenty-ninth day of April,
in the year of our Lord 1817, the aforesaid John Heathcoat came before our
said Lord the King in His Chancery, and acknowledged the Specification
aforesaid, and all and every thing therein contained and specified, in form
abovo written. And also the Specification aforesaid was stampt according
to the tenor of the Statute made for that purpose.