Year: 1898

page_text: I, WILLIAM STRANG, JUNIOR, 201, Greenhead Street, Glasgow, Muslin Manu-
facturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
A new figured cloth formed in the following manner,
For the ground I make a plain cloth, gauze cloth, or a combination of plain and
gauze cloth, or any weave suitable to form the texture desired.
This ground cloth is woven in stripes, with an open space between each stripe.
A stripe may consist of one or more threads as required.
In each of the open spaces a thread is worked, hereinafter called the binding
thread. Another thread, corresponding to each binding thread, is worked in con-
junction therewith.
This thread is hereinafter called the whip thread.
In the process of weaving, the whip threads are raised, one pick on the right
hand side of the binding threads and then one pick on the left hand side of the
adjoining binding thread, situated to the left and so on pick about. This is done
simultaneously with the forming of the ground shed, so that, when the shuttlo
is thrown, it passes underneath the whip threads.
In the parts where figuring is desired, the binding threads are held or allowed
to remain down. Where no figuring is required these threads are raised along with
the whip threads.
The result of this is, that where the binding threads remain down, the shuttle
passes over the binding threads and under the whip threads and as, on the following
pick the whip threads are raised on the opposite side of the adjoining binding
thread, it will be seen that the whip threads are stretched from the one binding
thread, to the adjoining binding thread.
Where the binding threads are raised along with the whip threads, the shuttle
passes under both threads. This allows the whip threads to be drawn back to the
ground stripes.
Where this is done the whip threads form part of the ground stripes and no figure
is formed, excepting such figure as may constitute the ground weave.
It will thus be seen that by manipulating the binding threads any variety of
figure may be formed.

page_text: I, WILLIAM STRANG, JUNIOR, of 201, Greenhead Street, in the City and County
of Glasgow, Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in
what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascer-
tained in and by the following statement:-
My invention has for its object the production of a new figured cloth in the
following manner.
For the ground I make any weave suitable to form the texture desired, such
as a plain cloth, or a gauze cloth, or a combination of plain and gauze cloth.
This ground cloth is woven in stripes each consisting of one thread or two or
more threads, as desired, there being an open space between each stripe. In each
of these open spaces a thread is worked, hereinafter called the binding thread-and
in conjunction therewith and corresponding to each binding thread is worked
another thread which is the figuring thread and is hereinafter called the whip
thread.
In the process of weaving, the whip threads are raised, one pick on the right-
hand side of the binding threads and then one pick on the left-hand side of the
adjoining binding thread situated to the left, and so on alternately at each pick.
This is done simultaneously with the formation of the ground shed, so that, when
the shuttle is thrown, it passes, and carries the weft underneath the whip threads.
In the parts where figuring is to be produced the binding threads are held down
or allowed to remain down during the passage of the shuttle, and in the parts
where no figuring is required the binding threads are raised along with the whip
threads during the passage of the shuttle.
Thus where the binding threads remain down, the shuttle and weft pass over
the binding threads and under the whip threads, and as, on the following pick the
whip threads are raised on the opposite side of the adjoining binding threads, the
whip threads are stretched from the one binding thread, to the adjoining binding
thread.
Where the binding threads are raised along with the whip-threads, the shuttle
and weft pass under both the binding and whip threads which permits the whip
threads to be drawn back to the ground stripes.
Where this is done the whip threads form part of the ground stripes and no
figure is formed, excepting such figure as may constitute the ground weave.
It will thus be seen that by manipulating the binding threads any variety of
figure may be formed.
In order that my invention may be well understood I will explain it further with
reference to the accompanying diagrams shewing weaves in accordance with my
invention. In the figures the binding threads are marked B, the whip threads W
and the ground warp threads G and R. The weft threads or picks are marked 1
to 10.
Figure 1 is an example of a figured fabric with a plain ground. The weft
threads 1, 2, 7, 8, 9 and 10 illustrate parts at which figuring is effected and the
weft threads 3, 4, 5 and 6 illustrate parts at which no figuring is effected.
The ground warp threads G and R can be raised and lowered by healds or
harness alternately in the usual way at each successive pick, so as to form the
plain ground weave.
The binding threads B can be manipulated independently by healds or by
harness.
The whip threads W can be manipulated by needles, fixed in a frame or in

page_text: frames which rises and falls or rise and fall in front of the beating up reed. For
the weft picks 1, 3, 5, 7 and 9 the said threads are raised; by the needles on the
right-hand side of the binding threads B, and for the weft picks 2, 4, 6, 8 and 10
the said threads are raised by the needles on the left-hand side of the adjoining
binding threads situated to the left.
When it is desired to form figuring the binding threads B are held down so that
the weft threads pass over them and between them and the whip or figuring
threads so that the whip threads W are caught by the weft threads 1, 2, 7, 8, 9
and 10 and held in the position occupied by the binding threads B.
If for the previous pick the binding threads B have been raised, then the whip
threads W will be stretched from the left-hand side of the ground threads G
to the right hand side of the binding threads B as is shewn between the picks 6
and 7, or they will be stretched from the right-hand side of the ground threads R
to the left hand side of the binding threads B as shewn between the picks 2 and 3,
but if, for the previous pick, the binding threads B have been held down, the whip
threads W will be stretched from the left-hand side of the binding threads B to the
right-hand side of the adjoining binding threads B as is shewn between the
picks 1 and 2 or 7, 8, 9 and 10.
When it is desired to form no figuring the binding threads B are raised so that
the weft threads pass under both the binding threads B and the whip threads W
so that the whip threads W are not caught by the weft and the binding threads B,
and the whip threads W under the tension with which they are woven are drawn
back to the ground threads G or R. If for the previous pick the binding threads B
have been held down the whip threads W will be stretched from the binding
threads B to the ground threads G or R as before mentioned, but if, for the
previous pick, the binding threads B have been raised, the whip threads W will
be turned round the ground threads G or R as is shewn between the picks 3, 4, 5
and 6.
It will thus be seen that by manipulating the binding threads B figuring or
absence of figuring may be formed at will and so the requisite design be produced.
The binding threads can be manipulated in accordance with the design required
by any suitable or known method, such as jacquards, dobbies or the like as will
be apparent to weavers without further explanation.
In designs where there are long stretches without figuring, the binding threads B
being lifted every pick would float upon the surface of the cloth too long to make
a satisfactory fabric. This may be obviated by making a single shot of figuring
at fixed intervals and so bind these threads to the body of the cloth.
The invention is not limited to any particular weave of the ground as any suitable
weave can be adopted. For example Figure 2 is another example of a plain
ground wherein the plain sheds are reversed from Figure 1 so that when the
needles carrying the whip threads rise on the right-hand side of the binding
threads B the ground threads R situated to the left are raised instead of being
held down as in Figure 1 and when the said needles rise on the left-hand side of
the binding threads B the ground threads G situated to the right are raised, instead
of being held down as in Figure 1. The effect of this is, that when no figuring
is being made, the whip threads W are drawn by the tension back to the ground
thread (G or R) situated furthest from the binding threads B operated upon and
the whip threads W float upon the surface (see picks 3, 4, 5 and 6) instead of being
twined round the ground threads G and R as in Figure 1.
Figure 3 is an example of a gauze ground the ground threads G and R being
twined round one another, instead of being worked plain, as in Figures 1 and 2.
Figure 4 is an example of a cloth in which one thread constitutes the ground
stripe. The binding threads B and the whip threads W are manipulated as in
the other illustrations, but the ground threads G are held down continuously so
that, where figuring is being formed, the ground threads G lie between the weft
threads and the whip threads; as shewn in picks 1, 2, 7, 8, 9 and 10 and where
no figuring is being formed the whip threads W twine round the ground threads G
as shewn in picks 3, 4, 5 and 6.

page_text: In the illustrations given the cloth is shewn as being composed of the new weave
only but I may if desired weave the new cloth as described in conjunction with
other weaves,
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of this inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is;-
A figured cloth or fabric produced by weaving whip or figuring threads, binding
threads and ground threads in combination, the design being produced by manipu-
lating the whip or figuring threads and binding threads so that where figuring is
required the whip or figuring threads are held to the point of contact of the bind-
ing and weft threads and where figuring is not required the whip or figuring
threads are allowed to return to the ground threads situated on each side of the
binding threads.
.וווד
9011
1
T
1000
JOHNSONS & WILLCOX,
47, Lincoln's Inn Fields, London, W.C., Agents.