CERTAIN. IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF TEXTILE FABRICS; ALSO IN THE MANU- FACTURE OF WEARING APPAREL AND OTHER ARTICLES FROM TEXTILE MATERIALS, AND IN THE MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR EFFECTING THE SAME
Year: 1850

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, CHRISTOPHER
CROSS, of Farnworth, near Bolton, in the County of Lancaster, Cotton Spinner
and Manufacturer, send greeting.
WHEREAS, Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date at West-
minster, the Fifth day of September, in the fourteenth year of Her reign, and
in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty, did, for Herself
Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the said Christopher Cross,
Her especial licence, full power, sole privilege, and authority, that I, the said.
Christopher Cross, my exors, adñiors, and assigns, and such others as I, the
said Christopher Cross, my exors, admors, or assigns, should at any time agreo.
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times during the term of
years therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, 'use, exercise, and
vend within England and Wales, and the Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, and.
in the Islands of Guernsey, Jersey, Alderney, Sark, and Man, and also within.
all Her Majesty's Colonies and Plantations abroad, my Invention of "CERTAIN.
IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF TEXTILE FABRICS; ALSO IN THE MANU-
FACTURE OF WEARING APPAREL AND OTHER ARTICLES FROM TEXTILE MATERIALS, AND
IN THE MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR EFFECTING THE SAME;" in which said Letters,
Patent is contained a proviso that I, the said Christopher Cross, shall cause a
particular description of the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be enrolled in Her Majesty's High Court of

page_text: Chancery, within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of
the said in part recited Letters Patent, as in and by the same, reference being
thereunto had will more fully and at large appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said
Christopher Cross, do hereby declare that the nature of the said Invention and
the manner in which the same is to be performed is particularly described and
ascertained in and by the Drawings hereto annexed, and, the following expla-
nation thereof, that is to say:-
My improvements consist, firstly, in an arrangement of apparatus con-
stituting a self-acting temple to be used in the production of textile fabrics;
secondly, in an improved construction of the reed of looms whereby I am
enabled to expand and contract the divisions thereof so as to suit the same
apparatus for manufacturing textile fabrics of various degrees of closeness with
respect to the warp threads; thirdly, in producing dividing strips when
weaving fustians in the application. of a shedding motion, as applied to the
warp threads of such strips, distinct from that which is required for the pro-
duction of the fustian.
My improvements in the manufacture of wearing apparel and other articles
consist in certain novel methods whereby I am enabled to employ the machinery:
and operations of loom weaving for the production of shapes suitable for being
made up into trowsers, coats, waistcoats, mantles, under shirts, and various
other articles of clothing; part of the said improvements being also applicable:
to the making of bags or cases which are required to be of an irregular figure.
This part of my Invention consists, firstly, in so regulating the motions of
the warp threads, that as occasion may require, a part of them only shall be
brought into such a position as to become interwoven with the weft so that a
manufactured material may be produced varying in figure according to the.
shape of the intended article. By thus dividing the functions of the warp
threads I am enabled to throw the shuttle from side to side of the machine
at each pick of the loom, but with such partial weaving only as may be
required, and thus there is a continuous uniform action as though the machine'
were in operation for the production of an ordinary web of cloth according to
my improvements, also the required irregularity of shape is continuously.
distended as produced, so that the manufactured garment, shape, or other-
article may be wound upon the cloth roller of the loom, as is practised in the
ordinary operation of weaving.
Secondly, under this division, my Invention consists in another mode of
manufacturing shapes suitable for being made up into wearing apparel by the
*

page_text: operation of weaving. In order to effect this I arrange the warp threads soi
as to be capable of producing two or more distinct pieces of cloth, as is well!
understood; but for the purpose of gaining the required irregularity of shape
I cause one or more of the threads of one set to be brought as occasion may
require so as to interweave with those of another set, by which means the two:
(or more) otherwise distinct weavings become stitched together, and by thus
continuing such stitching along the line of the intended shape, garments are:
formed which are required to be joined, the legs of trowsers for instance.
.
Thirdly, under this division, my Invention consists in the production of
shapes to be made up into wearing apparel by a peculiar mode of combining
two or more sets of warp threads with the weft, such mode consisting in
weaving the required article two or more fold and combining or keeping
separate the said folds according to the openings or spaces desired, that is to
say, in weaving four fold for instance, I so regulate the interweaving of the
tbreads that the weft shall be caused at one time (for example) to traverse
the sets of warp which belong to the top and bottom webs of cloth so
unite them at their edges, while at a further stage in the production of the
shape it shall in like manner enter into combination with 'the second and third,
or as occasion may require, with only one or with the whole of them.
as to
Fourthly, I produce irregular shapes suitable for being made up into
wearing apparel by the use of an expanding reed. By this method certain of
the warp threads are caused to spread out at periods so as to occupy a more
extended space in the direction of their width, and are contracted again at
pleasure, by which means a woven fabric of irregular width is produced
according to the shape required..
And in order that these several points of my Invention may be clearly
understood I have appended to this my Specification certain Drawings and
Diagrams which I will now proceed to describe.
My improved temple is shewn at Figs. 1, 2, 3, 4, Sheet 1 of the accom-
panying Drawings, Fig. 1 being a side view of the apparatus complete,
Fig. 2, a vertical section, Fig. 3, a top view of the stationary part, and
Fig. 4, a similar view of the bottom thereof. a, a, are two plates turned or
otherwise made so as to be parallel to each other on their inner surfaces and
united by a centre piece b; the union of these plates, therefore constitutes a
groove c, c; such groove however does not continue in an uniform direction
around the surfaces of the plates a, but at the under part curves outward, as
seen in the view of the bottom part, Fig. 4. Around the two plates a, a, is
placed an endless chain d; 'd, d, to which are affixed studs e, e, e, projecting

page_text: To.
into the groove c, c, so as to form guides and allow the chain to revolve around
the edges of the plate a, a, and follow the direction of the said groove.
the upper part of the chain are attached short spurs f, ff, which are intended
to take hold of the cloth in process of being woven, so as to keep it distended
to the correct width. In applying this improvement, two of the apparatus
described are to be used, one of them being attached to any convenient.
stationary part on each side of the loom, and capable of adjustment, so as to.
cause the distance between the chains of the two to correspond to the breadth
at which the temples are designed to act upon the cloth, as seen at Fig. 5.
The fabric as it is woven arrives in contact with the spurs f, f, f, which are
thus caused to carry the chain d, d, d, around the peripheries of the plates a, a,:
the form of the groove c, c, forcing the said spurs f. ff, outwards, and thus by
drawing the cloth in the same direction keeping it properly distended.
My improved mode of constructing the reed of looms is shewn in Fig. 6,
Sheet 1, of the accompanying Drawings, which represents' in two views a dent
constructed according to my improvements. It will be perceived that the.
upper and lower parts are provided with enlargements, which are pierced with
holes a, a; through these holes I place rods of the necessary length to form:
required width of reed, and when the dents are thus strung on I secure the
ends by means of screw nuts, or otherwise. By thus constructing a reed
I am enabled to render the same coarser or finer in guage by placing washers
between the. dents, or by removing them therefrom, or should one part of the
apparatus be worn out, I can add fresh dents in such portion."
My improvement relating to the production of strips of separate cloth
between portions of fustian weaving is shewn at Fig. 7, Sheet 1. The shafts of
the usual harness connected to the warp threads for the production of the
fustian fabric are shewn at a, a, a, and are to be worked in the ordinary
manner by tappets and treadles; upon the upper part of the loom is mounted
an axle b, provided with tappets c, above which are treadles d turning upon a
centre at one end, and connected at the other by cords which lead to sets of
harness corresponding in number to the separating strips required, and occupy-
ing in those situations the places of the fustian warp: These sets of harness
pass through a comber board, and are connected at bottom to lingoes. The
shaft b, and consequently the tappet c, have rotatory motion communicated to
them by any suitable moving power of the loom; the warp-threads, therefore,
which are connected to the sets of harness attached to the treadles d, will
receive a shedding motion independent of that which takes place with reference
to those used for the production of the fustian cloth; by this adaptation I am

page_text: 4
consequently enabled to weave separating strips of a regularly formed fabric,
and to vary the character of the same by changing the tappets c, so as to alter
the order of shedding the particular warp threads governed by them.
My improvements in the manufacture of wearing apparel and other articles
I shall explain by reference to certain Diagrams illustrative of the different
methods the same may be carried into effect, and as applied to various articles,
such as will serve as examples for the production of any required shape, and I
shall, firstly, treat of such forms and such methods of producing them as are of
simple construction, and subsequently enter into a description of the operations
necessary for the production of the more complicated configurations. The
loom I employ may be of any ordinary construction, the warp threads being
wound upon a beam, and connected to the necessary parts for weaving them
precisely as now, practised, the work also as it becomes woven being taken up
after the usual manner; such machinery, therefore, it will not be necessary for
me to describe. Suppose it desired to weave a shape, or shapes, suitable for
being made up into a pair of trowsers, one method of effecting this may con-
sist in forming the halves separately; in order to explain which let the Diagram
No. 1, represent one. leg.. as it would appear when opened out so as to
constitute a single cloth. The blue and red lines represent
threads
the warp
of the loom upon a magnified scale, those indicated by the former color, it will
be observed, are so situate that each one of the series traverses some portion
of the woven shape; all these threads are consequently used uninterruptedly,,
and I therefore call them the "standing warp;" they may be connected to
healds and shafts, and a shedding imparted to them according to the fabric to
be produced as in ordinary weaving. The threads represented by the red lines,
and which I call the "tapering threads," are connected to a jacquard appa
ratus, or to any of those contrivances (endless chains or organ barrels for
instance) which are used in place thereof, so as to be capable of receiving a
rising or falling motion, independant of the "standing warp." On commencing
the weaving of the shape shewn at No. 1, the warp threads represented by the
blue lines will be shed according to the desired texture of the fabric, the whole
of those represented by the red lines being raised by the jacquard, or other
similar apparatus; the weft is then thrown in as usual, and the shed again
made, and so on until, the fabric shall have been woven as far as the point a, b,
during the whole of which time the entire series of warp threads denoted by.
the red colour. are. to be raised at each pick of the loom, by which means they
will be kept from interweaving with the weft, and a cloth will be produced by
the blue threads only, the width thereof being from a to b; beyond this line-it,

page_text: is necessary to produce a gradually expanding width of fabric; this is to be
effected by so arranging the perforations of the jacquard cards (or the equiva-
lent apparatus) that instead of keeping up the whole of the red warp threads,
as hitherto, a portion of them shall be dropped and have a shedding motion
imparted thereto, corresponding to that of the "standing warp," or blue lines,
such change of disposition taking place on either side of the shape in progress
of being formed; by thus allowing the side warp threads to be operated upon in
like manner to those which are situate in the centre, the necessary widening of
the shape will be effected. This dropping of the warp threads, or, in other
words, bringing them into co-operation with those represented by the blue
lines, is to progress according to the outline of fabric desired, and may be
pursued by causing a thread to come into action at each pick of the loom, or
several may be dropped together at convenient intervals; thus, for instance,
when the fabric shall have been formed.up to the point c, d, the threads from
1 to 2 inclusive will have been brought into operation, while those between
2 and 3, and 0 and 1, will still be kept up at each throw of the weft, so as to
be out of the way of being interwoven; the work, however, having proceeded
as far as the point e, e, the entire warp will have been brought into
operation; beyond this a narrowing is required, in order to effect which the
threads represented by the red lines are gradually kept up by the disposition
of the jacquard cards or equivalent apparatus so as to be free from the throw
of the weft after the manner already described, the only difference being that
now the number kept up is on the increase instead of on the decrease, thus
continuing until the entire work shall have been effected. The shape thus
produced, if folded so as to bring the points e, e together, will assume the form
represented at No. 2, and when closed by sewing up the leg part, and another.
such shape so woven attached thereto, will form a pair of trowsers, with the
exception of fastenings and pockets, or other openings.
No. 3 represents another mode of forming one half of a pair of trowsers, the
shape being produced in the loom with the leg part closed. The shape shewn in
the Diagram represents the half of a pair of trowsers as it would appear if sepa-
rated from a perfect pair directly through the middle and laid out flat, in which
case there will be two thicknesses of cloth similar to No. 1 when folded over..
In order to effect this mode of carrying out my Invention, I arrange the whole
of the warp threads so as to act in two sets, as is well understood with reference
to the production of two pieces of cloth. The two sets of warp threads are as
before divided into the "standing warp," represented by the blue lines, and
the tapering warp," indicated by the red color in this instance; inasmuch.

page_text: as one side of the intended shape is to be straight there is a necessity for
the tapering warp" on one side only; this, however, is divided into sets
:belonging to the upper and lower cloth precisely after the same manner as
that of the "standing warp." The operation by which the irregular figure is
produced being precisely similar to that already described, no description
thereof will be necessary; but in order to unite the two weavings so as to
effect the required closing of the leg, I cause the shedding of the warp to take
place, so that a thread or threads of the two sets of warp work together at
intervals at points coincident with the outline of the shape to be produced;
this union produces a stitching effect, as is well understood, and will form the
leg of the trowser entire. Such closing, however, is not required on the
tapered side beyond the point e, for there it, is to be joined to the other half to
form the perfect trowsers. The interweaving of the threads of the two sets of
warp may also discontinue fróm f to g, which will leave the two thicknesses of
cloth detached, so as to form a slit for the pocket. Thus one half of the entire
:shape is formed, which, when joined to the other and fitted with fastenings.
trimmings, and any required openings, becomes a perfect garment. No. 4 is
a Diagram, representing a mode by which a shape similar to that already
produced, and a lining, may be formed by continuous operation. Suppose the
required weaving to have been effected as before described, the half of
the trowser will have been produced. When the operation shall have
been continued up to the point a, similar motions of the warp threads are
then to be recommenced and carried on until another such shape has
been produced; this being an exact counterpart of that already woven will,
of course, fit in every point, and when turned therein will form a lining
exactly suited in configuration. In forming these linings, however, the
.shuttle may be changed so as to throw in a weft of a different material
or color according to the quality or appearance of fabric required.
No. 5 représents three ranges of warp threads placed side by side; they
are supposed to be those. of a "tape loom" having a shuttle or shuttles for
each set, as is well understood; by this method a number of shapes may be
simultaneously produced. The warp threads are divided as before into the
"standing" and "tapering" sets, and their motions will be regulated precisely
after the manner already described..
%
No. 6: is a Diagram representing another. mode of producing a. pair of
trowsers. In this instance the perfect shape for being inade into the garment
is to be woven simultaneously; and inasmuch as no thread of the warp is
required to be in operation during the formation of the whole of the work the

page_text: ' entire series become "tapering threads;" the operation however is alike to
that already described, the warp threads which do not join that part of the
work then forming being raised out of the range of the shuttle so as to miss
interweaving. This last method of forming the shape for trousers may be
-woven in conjunction with a lining, as shewn at. Diagram No. 7, by reversing
the motions of the warp threads, and the shape may be manufactured single
and afterwards joined to a similar half by hand, or may be produced double
and stitched along the outline by the union of threads in the two sets of warps,
as already mentioned.
No. 8 is a Diagram representing the outline of a chemise or under shirt to
be manufactured according to my improvements. In this case there are two
sets of tapering warps, represented by the red lines, which are as before to be
held up by the jacquard or other similar apparatus, so as to regulate the width
of work produced.
No. 9 is a representation of a shape suitable for being used in making up a
jacket; the "standing" and "tapering" warps are represented as in the
other examples. In making such a shape according to this part of my
improvements I remove the tapering threads, as before described, so as to form
the irregular configuration represented by the full lines, and subsequently cut
out that part included by the dotted lines, the two portions a, b, being then
brought together and sewed, the orifice for the arm will be formed at c, which
part of the garment may be manufactured on the principle of this part of my
Invention, as shewn at No. 10, the parts included within the dotted lines being
subsequently cut away. The shape No. 9 may be made in single cloth, and so
constitute. one half of the shape to be made up into a jacket, or it may be
produced double by the use of two sets of warp threads, as mentioned with
reference to other Figures, thus constituting both halves of the body, in which
case threads of the two sets of warp may be united at intervals along that part
of the shape constituting the back, so as to stitch the two fabrics together.
The arms No. 10, I prefer weaving in double cloth and uniting the threads of
two sets of warp along both edges of the shape; whereby that part of the
garment will be woven in the required tubular form..
-
No. 11 represents the outline of a shape which may be applied as a
bolster or other case, the corners being rounded off by taking up the tapering
'threads. This may be woven in double cloth united around the edges
excepting at any desired part which may be desired to be left open for the
purpose of stuffing or for other uses.
It will occasionally be found that
owing to the tapering warp threads not being so much interwoven with the

page_text: weft they will become slack. In order to obviate this I place at intervals a
packing of cloth or other material so as to be wound with them on to the work
beam. The shapes when taken from the loom will of course have the unused
warp threads hanging to them, which must therefore be removed.
In describing this part of my improvements I have spoken of the "tapering
warp" threads as being occasionally raised out of the way of interweaving
with the others; it will be evident, however, that precisely the same effect will
take place by keeping them at proper intervals depressed, the only difference
in operation being (supposing a jacquard apparatus used) that in the former
case those threads which are required to be kept out of action are connected
to needles, which are at such time opposite to perforations in the jacquard
cards, while according to the last-mentioned arrangement the said needles are
acted upon by a plain surface of the cards, so as to push the hooks into such
a position as to prevent them from being raised by the upward motion of the
"knife box," as is well understood by all competent persons. I have also
referred particularly to the use of that apparatus commonly called the
jacquard for effecting the disengaging of the required warp threads; it will be
evident, however, that other arrangements of mechanism equivalent thereto
may be employed for effecting the purpose, many of which are well
known.
I will now, however, proceed to describe certain novel arrangements of
machinery or apparatus for effecting the desired object.
Fig. 8, Sheet 1, is a partial front view of a loom, shewing a method of
working the tapering warp threads, and also a peculiar construction of
jacquard apparatus to be used for regulating the motion of the warp threads,
so as to cause a variation in the manner of combining the several cloths when
weaving more than one fold, as described under the third division of my improve-
ments in the manufacture of wearing apparel. The harness of the tapering
warp threads is denoted by the red lines, and they are shewn on a magnified
scale in order the more clearly to explain their arrangement. The upper ends
of the harness are connected to thin metal pieces a, a, one of which is shewn
detached in two views at Fig. 9; they have hooks formed at their tops, and are
provided with longitudinal slots, through which are passed rods b, b, by which
arrangement they are provided with the means of sliding up and down in a
parallel direction. Upon the tapering harness are formed long loops c, c, c,
through which the shafts (one of which is shewn at d) pass, and lingoes
are applied at bottom in the usual manner; to the upper part of the side
framing of the loom are affixed upright pieces e, e, which are provided with

page_text: vertical slots acting as guides, within which slots is a transverse bar f, f, con-
nected at each side to rods g, g, which rods extend downwards, and are jointed
-to cranks formed upon the crank shaft of the loom, by which connection an up
and down reciprocating motion is gained for the transverse bar f. f. Upon
the bar f, f, is mounted a plate i, i, which by means of slots and pins is capable
of moving to or fro in a parallel direction. One part of the plate i, i, pro-
jects beyond the bar f, as at i, (see the detached top view, Fig. 10,) such
'projecting part being for the purpose of sliding under the hooks of the
pieces a, as hereafter to be explained. A cam jis mounted. upon a shaft
capable of turning upon bearings attached to any convenient stationary part
of the loom which cam is caused to revolve at intervals by a suitable
connexion to any moving part of the machine, and against its periphery is
placed one end of a bolt k, the other end thereof being provided with a boss,
through which passes loosely a pin 7 projecting from the sliding plate i, i.
The rod k moves in guides m, m, and is continually pressed towards the
cam j, by means of a coiled spring n. The operation of this apparatus is
as follows: premising for the present that the shafts d, have motion com-
municated to them in any ordinary manner for shedding the warp, for
although I have shewn a peculiar jacquard apparatus applied thereto, it is not
necessarily employed in conjunction with the tapering motion now referred
to, and will therefore be described separately in its proper place. According
to the position of the parts shewn in the Drawing, the plate i has been
"projected forward by the cam.j, so as to have carried its projecting part **
along certain of the series of pieces a, a, so that upon the upward motion of
.the bar f those pieces a, which were opposite to such projecting part have
been raised into the position shewn in the Drawing; by this motion those of
the warp threads, which are connected to the harness of the pieces a, a, which
have been thus raised, have also been carried upward, the loops c, c, sliding
upon the shaft d, and therefore communicating no motion thereto. The
tappets or other apparatus used for shedding the warp will now come into
operation so as to dispose all those warp threads which are intended to combine
with the weft into a suitable position, viz., the "standing warp," and such of
the "tapering warp," as have not been moved by the plate i, i. The former
(represented by the blue lines) being tied to the shaft in the usual manner,
will rise therewith; in consequence of such arrangement, the latter will partake
of the same motion by reason of the upper ends of their loops c, c, being
suspended upon the shaft. The weft having been then thrown in the usual
manner, the bar f, f, will descend during the beating up of the work until the

page_text: l
sliding plate i, i, shall have gained a position below the hooks of the pieces
a, a, the pin sliding freely through the socket of the bar k. This position
of the parts having been gained, the cam j, by means of a ratclict or other
suitable medium, will be caused to turn a short distance upon its centre,
thereby bringing a fresh point of its circumference to act upon the bolt k,
(say for instance, a decreased diameter); such being the case, the bolt k
will be caused to slide in its guides m, m,, and through the intervention
of the projecting pin 1, carry with it the sliding plate i, so as to bring
the part i under the hooks of a less number of the pieces a, a, so that
upon the rising of the bar f, more of the warp threads will be left suspended
by the loops c, upon the shaft d, after which the shafts will be again caused
to operate, this time hower, acting upon more of the tapering warps, by reason
of a fewer nuniber having been selected by the plate i*, and thus the operation
will continue at each revolution of the machine, the shape of the cam j,
determining the rate of decrease at which the pieces a, and. consequently
loops c, shall be lifted so as to convey the top ends of the latter beyond the
reach of the motion of the shafts. I have spoken of the action of the plate i*,
as decreasing with reference to the hook piecers a; it will be obvious, however,
that such connection, may at times increase, according to the shape of the cam j,
and the effect intended to be produced, suppose for example, the shape shewn
at Diagram, No. 3, is in process of being woven; at the commencement of the
operation the greatest diameter of the eam must be in contact with the bolt k,
so as to have brought the projecting piece i*, under the whole of the hooks of
the pieces a, a.
The cam must now be for some time concentric,. so as
to maintain this position until the weaving shall have proceeded to the end of
the straight part, as at z, Diagram No. 3; beyond this a weaving of greater
width is gradually required, and, therefore, more warp threads must be
brought into action; the cam j will then decrease in diameter so as to allow
the plate to slide from under certain of the hook pieces a, and thereby leave
a like number of loops c to be carried with the shedding motion of the shaft.d,
and thus the progressing leaving of the loops will continué until they shall have
been produced up to the point e, (No. 3,) the more or less speedy decreasing
diameter of the cam j effecting the required curve, and having at this part
allowed the whole of the warp threads to work for the production of cloth, after
which an increasing diameter of the cam will again thrust forward the bolt k,
so as gradually to increase the number of hooks and loops kept up in order to
prevent their respective warp threads from interweaving with the weft. I
have shewn the "tapering" warp as applied to one side only, but it will

page_text: be obvious, that if desired, the same adaptation of parts will effect a tapering on
both sides of the work, and that one or more threads may be connected to each
of the hook pieces a, a.
It will be sceri by inspecting the detached top view,
.Fig. 10, that the sliding plate i is provided with a projecting part i* on each
side thereof; this arrangement may be used for the purpose of gaining room
for the application of a greater number of hooks pieces than could be applied,
if there were but one such projecting part i*.
I will now proceed to describe my second method of manufacturing
shapes to be made up into wearing apparel and other articles, the first
example I shall describe being illustrated by the Diagrams Nos. 12, 13,
and 14. In this instance it is proposed to manufacture a pair of trowsers
in two parts, to be subsequently joined as described with reference to No. 3;
.for this purpose I furnish the loom with two sets of warp threads, so as
to produce two distinct webs of cloth, which threads are represented on a
magnified scale. by the vertical blue lines; according to this part of my
improvements none of the warp threads are to be removed from action,
but the shuttle is to be caused to carry the weft threads, and the warps
.are to be shed so as to weave a fabric the whole width of the loom, 'as
ordinarily practised. In order, however, to effect the production of the re-
quired shape, I cause a thread, or threads, of the two sets of warps to com-
bine with each other at intervals along the outline of the shape to be produced;
this combination of the threads may be effected by an operation of the
jacquard, or by other well-known methods, so as to unite the two fabrics at the
desired parts. In the example I am now describing, the stitching process has
been carried on along the dotted line in No. 12, by which it will be perceived
that the outlines of two halves of a pair of trowsers have been formed, except-
ing at the parts thereof above the points a, a, beyond which that portion of the
shape commences which has to be subsequently joined to a corresponding half;
the two fabrics are, therefore, in that part of the work left separate, that is to
say, the combination of the threads of the two sets of warp which effects the
stitching, has been discontinued. The section of the work thus produced will,
therefore, be as at No. 15 if taken in the line 1, 2, and as at No. 16 if taken
at the line 3, 4, the cloths being stitched together to form the legs at b, c, d, e,
No. 15, and at f, 9 only, No. 16. The shapes having been thus far produced,
and others having been woven in succession if desired, the work is to be removed
from the loom, and the shapes cut out by scissors or other suitable instrument,
as represented by the full lines in No. 13, the strips between which lines and
those represented by dots being precisely similar to those which would be left

page_text: by the ordinary operation of sewing by hand. The central line divides the
halves, which when joined along the lines h, i, will form the entire general
shape of a pair of trowsers, ready for being supplied with fastenings and
openings as may be desired; the shape so produced being, of course, turned
inside out, so as to get the plain seam on the exterior.
No. 17 is a Diagram, representing two shapes as being manufactured in
the width of the range of warp threads, and repeated so as to be wound
successively upon the warp beam. The shape B may constitute a lining for
that seen at a, or may be another half of the trowsers; if the former be
desired then. the warp threads may be of a different material or color, so as
to produce a fabric varying from the outside shape A, as required. The
stitching is continued as before along the dotted lines, the full lines denoting
the configuration to be subsequently cut out.
No. 18 represents a modification of the previously described Figures; in
this instance the entire general shape of the trowser is produced in one
piece, and pockets are formed therewith. The combination of the threads of
the two sets of warp which produces the stitching is represented as before
by dotted lines, and the full lines denote the shape to be subsequently cut by
scissors or other instrument. The pockets a, a, are formed in the same manner
and when turned in will occupy their proper position, in order to provide for
which it will be observed that the stitching is discontinued at b, b, so that the
two fabrics are there kept separate. The space between the legs of the
trowsers may be appropriated to the production of another shape as at A
which is supposed to represent the outline of a portion of a waistcoat, which,
being woven double and stitched along the back, forms an entire shape suitable
for being made up into the garment.
No. 19 represents another disposition of trowser shapes; in this case each
form is one half of the entire shape, a series being woven side by side, in
number according to the width of the loom; and No. 20 shews a number
of chemise or under shirt shapes arranged according to a similar method.
In describing this part of my Invention, I have mentioned that the stitching
together of the threads of separate sets of warp may be effected by the
action of the jacquard or other known machinery; I will here, however,
point out how my improved selecting machinery, already described with
reference to Fig. 8, may be applied to this purpose. In such case, instead
of the projecting piece i* being sufficiently wide to take in the width of
tapering threads, it must merely be adapted for taking hold of one or more
hooks which belong to those warp threads intended to be interwoven with
.

page_text: those of another set, the cam j advancing the pin i* according to the line
of stitching required; by this means the bar facts after the manner of a
loom shaft, but operates upon selected threads only, varying as may be provided
for by the shape of the cam j.
I will now proceed to describe my third method of producing shapes
suitable for being made up into wearing apparel, a simple example of the
same being shewn at Nos. 21, 22, the first of which is a Diagram denoting
the outline of a pair of loose trousers, the sides thereof being woven straight,
that is to say, without taper. This shape is of course double the section
thereof at 1, 2, being as at No. 23, and at 3, 4, as at No. 24; when folded
over it will assume the appearance shewn at No. 22, and become four fold;
the section thereof at 5, 6, being as at No. 25, and at 7, 8, as at No. 26.
It is in this four fold form that the shape is produced in the loom and in'
the following manner:-The warp threads are arranged so as to have a
shedding motion imparted to them suitable for the production of four webs
of cloth in a similar manner to the way in which two are woven, and the
Icom is provided with two shuttles mounted, if working by power, in a
rising box, as is well understood. On the commencement of weaving the
shape the first shuttle interweaves with the warp threads of the top cloth a,
then the second cloth b, for any desired number of picks, after which
the second shuttle is brought into operation so as to combine with the third
cloth c, and subsequently fourth cloth d, which in their turn thus become
united at their edges, and thus the two legs being formed by distinct weft
threads are kept separate. The operation thus continues until the shape
is produced up to the point e, at which situation the legs discontinue and the
part for the body is to be formed. In order to effect this it will be necessary
to alter the combination of the four webs of cloth to such an arrangement
that the first thereof a, shall be joined to the fourth d, and the second b, to
the third c, as seen in the section No. 26; the shedding of the warp must
therefore be suitably arranged for such purpose, the weft of the first shuttle
may then pass along the cloth a, return through a shed opened by that d, and
back again in the same course, after which the weft of the second shuttle may
perform the same motions with reference to the warp threads of the cloths
b and c, and so continue until the entire shape shall have been produced. I
have described the operation with reference to this Figure as carried on
throughout by the use of two shuttles, by which mode of operation the outside
edges will be left open which may serve for pocket holes, if desired however
one shuttle only may be used above the point e, in which case the shape will

page_text: be close all around and the section taken at 7, 8, be as at No. 27. For this:
purpose the function of the weft will be to pass through the shed of the first:
set of warps a, then through those of the bottom set d, afterwards through
those represented by c, and finally returning to the starting point along b. It:
will be perceived that in manufacturing shapes according to this and also the
two former methods, that the work proceeds through the loom in the usual:
regular manner, and may therefore be wound on to the cloth beam by any:
ordinary means, the warp threads which are not interwoven with the weft,)
according to the first described plan, passing on with it.
of one or
Having thus described how this part of my Invention may be carried out by:
the aid of the jacquard or other such known machinery, I will proceed to.
describe a certain novel arrangement of parts for effecting the same, that is to:
say, suitably arranged for varying the combination of two or more webs of:
cloth. This apparatus is shewn as applied to Fig. 8 in conjunction with the:
novel machinery used for selecting the "tapering" threads, and also in the:
detached top view, Fig. 11. The general arrangement is similar to an ordinary;
jacquard apparatus, but as the object is to lift the shafts of the looms instead;
a few warp threads the parts must be made upon a correspondingly.
strong scale. The needles are shewn p, p, p; they pass freely through holes in:
a frame 9, q, and also through vertical slots, which are formed on the sides.
of a box s; upon the needles there are projecting pieces t, between which and:
the frame q are placed spiral springs. The hooks u pass through the needles:
as usual, and also through a guide plate v, and to their lower ends are con->
nected cords w, w, which, after passing over guide pullies are connected:
respectively to each end of a shaft, as at d, d; the frame q is loose within the:
box s, and capable of being moved up and down them by means of cords or;
chains x, and is caused to effect such motion in a parallel direction by means
of guide pieces y. y. The jacquard cylinder is shewn at z, in which there are
to be formed holes as usual, and the cards or plates which pass around it are:
to be pierced in like manner, according to the movements to be produced..
I will suppose, however, for the sake of example, that such cards or plates are>
provided with piercings, making three deep in a vertical direction; motion:
being communicated to the cylinder by any of the usual methods, the needless
will be pushed back or remain stationary so as to allow of the hooks being,
raised or kept down, as ordinarily practised by the knife, and thus the motions:
will continue until it is desired to effect a change in the order of shedding the
warp, the needles p being operated upon by the line corresponding to the
bottom tier of card piercings, only when such alteration, however, is desired,

page_text: the frame must be raised by pulling, the cord or chain æ until the row of
needles is brought opposite to another range of holes in the endless cards or
plates, each revolution of which will then effect a course of shedding different
from that which previously took place. In order to illustrate this fully,
I will refer to the Diagrams Nos. 22, 26, 27, here it is necessary in the first
instance so to regulate the motions of the warp thread that the weft having
interwoven with the first cloth shall then combine with the second, a similar
operation.then taking place with reference to the third and fourth cloths; this
effect I will suppose to be produced by one revolution of the chain of cards or
plates, the needles being opposite to the bottom range of holes; the weaving,
however, having advanced as far as the point e, Fig. 22, a change becomes
necessary; it being now desired to combine the first cloth with the fourth and
the second with the third, the attendant will then stop the loom, and by pulling
the cord or chain a raise the frame, and consequently needles p, p, until
they shall have been brought to a line coincident with the second range of
piercings in the cards or plates, which situation may be determined by a
particular link of the cord or chain having arrived opposite to a hook placed
for its reception. The weaving will now go on according to the altered
routine of card piercings, combining the several cloths, as required, until they
shall have been manufactured to that point where the openings for the pockets
are required, at which time the frame 7 and its needles are again to be raised so
as to bring them into contact with another part of the cards to effect a course
of shedding that will combine the cloths as at No. 26. I have mentioned
three ranges of action for the needles, but if desired there may be more or less,
according to the changes required in the combinations of the cloths. The
number of cards necessary will of course depend upon the style of fabric to
be produced, and the number of thicknesses of cloth to be manufactured,
thus, for example, should the material to be woven be ordinary calico, and
the, shape be fourfold, inasmuch as a single web of cloth would require two
motions of the warp, four thicknesses thereof will require eight, and a
corresponding number of cards only will be necessary; for it must be kept in
mind that they are not intended to be used as a means of altering the fabric,
and that, therefore, there is merely a necessity for a sufficient number to form
one perfect course of work. I will now point out how my several methods,
already described, of producing shapes as aforesaid, may be used so as to
operate in conjunction.
No. 28 represents a shape similar to that assumed by a pair of trowsers,
when folded one leg into the other, in which case, there will be four thick-

page_text: nesses of cloth; the blue vertical lines represent as before the " standing
warp threads upon a magnified scale, and the red lines the tapering warp
before referred to. The outline of the shape is, therefore, effected by the
agency first described, viz. by raising or falling certain of the warp threads
out of the way of the weft; the weaving of the legs is effected by the use
of two shuttles in a manner precisely similar to that mentioned with re-
ference to Nos. 21 and 22, and the body part also by the same method, the
sections at similar points corresponding to those exhibited at Nos. 25 and
26. In this case, therefore, the entire general shape of the trowser will be
produced, but closed up all round; if it be required to form an opening up the
front, then the section of the fourfold cloth taken above the point e, will be as;
at No. 29, the shedding of the warp must from that position be so arranged,
as to prevent the cloths from being combined as heretofore; for this purpose:
the motion which governs the rising and falling of the shuttle box may be
thrown off so as to allow one only to carry its weft thread across the loom,:
combining it firstly with the cloth a, then with the cloth d, after which along
c, and back again in the same direction, finally passing along b, and gaining
the starting point by again traversing the said cloth b. If it be desired to:
effect an opening at each side for a "full fall," then the operation will be the
same as described in reference to No. 26, and should it be required to effect
an opening up the front as well as at each side (the latter being for pocket.
holes) the section of the fourfold cloth will be as at No. 30. In this instance,:
it wil be perceived that there are three cloths distinct from each other; there
must, therefore, be three shuttles employed so as to preserve the required;
openings; the first shuttle will therefore combine its weft at the first pick.
with the cloth a, and next with the fourth d, repeating backwards the same,
operation,, the second shuttle will then traverse the second cloth b, forward and
backward, and the third shuttle in like manner act in combination with the
hird cloth c. :
No. 81, will illustrate the production of a shape by combining the three
methods of operating before described; in this instance, two pairs of trousers
shapes are woven side by side, and upon the fourfold plan, the irregular
configuration of the leg part is produced by the "tapering warp threads,"
signified by the red lines; the straight sides thereof are formed by the method
of stitching the warp between such straight sides, therefore there will be
strips of cloth which are to be separated in the middle, by cutting subsequent
to the weaving.
No. 32 is a section of the manufactured shape taken in the
of No. 31, and No. 33 is a similar view taken in the line 3, 4.
line 1, 2,
In manu

page_text: facturing trowsers shapes according to this plan the first shuttle will traverse
the top cloth and back again along the second cloth, at the same time
one or more threads of the two cloths being worked at c; c, so as to
forin by stitching the other edges of the shapes; the like operation will
then take place with reference to the second shuttle, which by working in
combination with the third and fourth cloths produces the other legs of
the required shape. Above the point e the order of shedding the warp will
be changed, so as to cause the shuttle or shuttles to interweave the weſt
with the several sets of warp thread, according to the closings or openings
required; as described with reference to Nos. 25, 26, 27, 29, 30, the stitching
between the first with the second and the third with the fourth cloths being
continued or left off, according to the required closing or opening; thus, for
example, should it be desired that above the point e an opening should be left
up the middle in front, and also that slits are desired at the side to constitute
pocket-holes, the section across that part of the shape No. 31 marked 3, 4,
will be required, as represented at No. 34; the stitching must then be dis-
continued, from the point where the pocket hole begins; and it will be neces-
sary to employ three shuttles, the first appropriated to a and d cloths, the
second to b, and the third to c. The several shuttles will, however, when thus
working, combine the cloths of the two pairs of trowsers, that is to say, webs
of cloth will be formed extending across the two shapes; in order, therefore, to
separate them, they must be cut in the situations shewn by the dotted lines in
No. 35, or the incision may be made at the centre of those two lines, and the
superfluous part used for being turned in when the shapes are made up.
No. 36 represents a shape suitable for a chemise, or under shirt, and is
supposed to be made two-fold, according to the combined operations of my
secondly and thirdly described improvements. The section of the completed
shape, taken in line 1, 2, will be as at No. 37, and a similar view at 2, 3, will
be as at No. 38. The tapening being effected as before, and the operations
generally the same, it will only be necessary to remark that one shuttle is
employed for forming the lower part-(No. 37), and two for keeping the arm
holes open as at No. 38.
:
My fourth mode of manufacturing shapes as aforesaid I shall explain by
reference to Figures 12 and 13, Sheet 1, of the accompanying Drawings.
The reed dents are shewn at a, mounted upon rods b, b, as described in
the reference to Fig. 6; between each of them, at the upper and lower
ends, is placed one of a series of circular wedge-formed pieces c, c, the
two sets of which are mounted so as to slide loosely upon axles d, d, as
shewn in the detached Fig. 13, and are capable of turning in suitable bear-

page_text: ings. The axles d, d, are provided with toothed pinions e, e, which are con-
nected so as to partake of corresponding motions by a toothed wheel f; by
turning therefore this wheel, the circular wedges will be caused to revolve,
and bring an increased or decreased thickness between the dents of the reed,
so as to expand it or contract it at pleasure, and by thus operating the threads
are caused to occupy a variable width and so produce an irregular breadth of
cloth according to the shape required: In order to force back the dents and
circular wedges from their expanded position, I apply springs or weight at one
or both ends of the rods b. In conclusion I would remark that I have shewn
such examples as have appeared to me best for the elucidation of my Inven-
tion, and such as will be sufficient to enable all competent persons to carry out
the same in the manufacture of other shapes to be made up into wearing apparel.
I have spoken generally of machinery relating to power looms, yet it will be
evident that my improvements may be effected, if desired, by hand looms.
I would also observe, that the shapes to be manufactured may be produced
in rows, and that those parts which would otherwise be spaces may be partially
filled up by shapes of another character so as to avoid a waste of material.
It will be evident, too, that the number of shuttles employed, and order of their
movements, may be varied to a great extent, and generally, that many modifi-
cations may be effected without departing from the spirit of my Invention,
that which I claim being,-
Firstly, as a temple applied to looms for weaving the use of the endless
travelling chain and its points, so arranged as to draw the cloth outward, at
the same time presenting a flattened surface of the said chain thereto..
:
Secondly, so constructing the reeds of looms, that the dents thereof may be
shifted nearer to or further from each other, or a portion of them removed for
the substitution of others.
Thirdly, the production of dividing strips of. calico or other cloth simul-
taneously with the weaving of fustians; by the application of a shedding motion
distinct from that which operates upon the warp threads of the fustian.
With reference to my improvements in the manufacture of wearing apparel,
I claim the production of shapes,―
Firstly, by so governing the action of the warp threads through the agency of
a jacquard or other apparatus, that a portion of them, as occasion may require,
5 shall be prevented from the usual operation of shedding so as to fail in com-
bining with the weft, although the shuttle or shuttles shall travel from box to
box, thus producing an irregular quantity of work in the direction of the width
of the loom.
Secondly, by arranging the warp threads so as to be capable of producing

page_text: two or more pieces of cloth the whole width of the warp threads, and uniting
certain of the respective threads of, such otherwise separate pieces of cloth by
means of the jacquard or other apparatus, so as to form the required shape.
Thirdly, by arranging the warp threads so as to produce two or more.
distinct pieces of cloth, and causing the weft to traverse them separately, or to
unite two or more of them.
Fourthly, by causing the dents of the reed to expand or contract, so as to
cause the warp threads to occupy a space of variable width.
Fifthly, I claim for the production of shapes as aforesaid the use of the
sliding plate described with reference to Fig. 8, which, by selecting certain of
the warp threads, prevents them from being shed by the action of the shafts,
or, according to my second method, combines certain of them in order to effect
the required stitching. Also, for the like purpose, I claim the arrangement
of the jacquard apparatus represented at Figure 8, such arrangement, consist..
ing in the application of a row or rows of needles capable of being shifted so
as to act in combination with different portions of the chain of cards or
plates.
In witness whereof, I, the said Christopher Cross; have hereunto set my
hand and seal, the Fourth day of March, One thousand eight hundred