IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF LACE AND OTHER FABRICS
Year: 1846

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, WILLIAM
CROFTS, of the Park, Nottingham, Lace Manufacturer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her present most, Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Royal Letters Patent under the Great Seal of the United Kingdom of
Great Britain and Ireland, bearing date at Westminster, the Twentieth day
of August, One thousand eight hundred and forty-six, in the tenth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the
said William Crofts, my exors, admors, and assigns, Her especial licence, full
power, sole privilege and authority, that I, the said William Crofts, my exors,
admors, and assigns, or such others as I, the said William Crofts, my exors,
adñiors, or assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time
to time and at all times during the term of years therein expressed, should
and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within England, Wales,
and the Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, my Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN
THE MANUFACTURE OF LACE AND OTHER FABRICS;" in which said Letters Patent is
contained a proviso that L, the said William Crofts, should cause a particular
description of the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the
same is to be performed, by an instrument in writing under my hand aud
seal, to be inrolled in Her said Majesty's High Court of Chancery within

page_text: six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said in part
recited Letters Patent, as in and by the same, reference being thereunto had,
will more fully and at large appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said
William Crofts, do hereby declare that the nature of my Invention, and
the manner in which the same is to be performed, are fully described
and ascertained in and by the following statement thereof, reference being
had to the Drawings hereunto annexed, and to the figures and letters marked
thereon, that is to say :-
My Invention relates,―
First, to improvements in making spots in fabrics made in twist-lace
machines.
Second, my Invention relates to improvements in twist-lace machinery for
slackening off bobbin threads opposite any position, and from time to time
changing the positions in which such slackening off of the bobbin threads takes
place by employing independent instruments, capable of being acted on by
pattern surfaces, by which any one or more of the independent instruments
may be brought into or left out of action at any desired period during the
working of the lace machinery. And,
Thirdly, my Invention consists of applying instruments to slacken bobbin
threads to that class of single-tier rotary machines used for making straight
down or linked net or lace, where the carriages swing through and through
between the warp threads without stopping, when they come to the centre
between the combs or bolts.
And in order that my Invention may be most fully understood and
readily carried into effect, I will proceed to describe the means pursued
by me. The nature of bobbin-net or twist-lace machinery, and the working
of the same, being well understood, it will not be necessary to enter into
any description thereof, beyond what is requisite for making my improve-
ments understood. And the peculiar character of the first part of my
Invention is so to operate on the warp threads with independent instruments,
together with cuts of wheels or other surfaces for working the guide or warp
bars, that spots may be made in any desired order and on any parts of the
fabric which are being made in twist-lace machines, in place of making spots
in succession opposite the same points of the machinery. According to this
part of my Invention there are as many independent instruments as there are
warp threads employed, so that an independent instrument may enter between
each neighboring pair of warp threads, and that by them in combination
with the rackings of the guide or warp bars any pair of warp threads across

page_text: thereon by two bobbin threads.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS MARKED A.
These Drawings represent so much of ordinary bobbin-net or twist-lace
machinery as will enable me to describe the first part of my Invention. The
arrangement of lace machinery shown is of that class of single-tier machinery
where the carriages swing through and through between the warp threads
without traversing, and thereby produce those descriptions of twist nets or
laces known as straight down nets or laces. At the same time I would
remark, that I do not confine myself to the use of such machinery, as other
twist-lace machines may be used for carrying out the first part of my
Invention, so long as the warp threads be so acted on by independent
instruments, together with their having requisite shogging motion in the
direction of the width of the machine, as to produce spots in the fabrics in any
desired order or pattern at any desired parts. The nature of each of the
views shown by the Drawings being written thereon, it will not be necessary
to repeat the same here, and it will be seen that the same letters of reference
are used to indicate the same parts in the different Figures of the Drawings.
In this machinery only two guide or warp bars are necessary to produce the
plain ground of net or lace, and the spots therein, and the cuts of wheels are
such as to produce a plain linked net, but the cuts of wheels may be used to
produce other descriptions of lace or net for the ground, as is well understood,
and spots may be made therein according to this part of my Invention,
which consists in causing by independent instruments spots to be made in
any order, each spot consisting of two bobbin threads on two warp threads,
and according to the arrangement shewn each spot will be produced of what is
called wicker work, which is the construction of spot L prefer, and the same is
generally considered the best. a,b, are the two warp.or guide bars which are
used to produce the ground of net or lace, together with the spots therein,
caused by two warp threads (at any point desired) receiving two bobbin
threads, each bobbin thread so acting with each of two warp threads as to
produce a spot. The guide bars a, b, each carry half as many warp threads
as there are carriages, and the other guide bars shown in the Drawing are to
carry lacing or taping, or other threads, as is well understood. c is the cut
of wheel which works the guide or warp bar a, and dis the cut of wheel
which works the warp bar b; and,supposing the machine were to be.worked
continuously,. the warp threads depending for their motion only on the cut of
wheels, a plain linked ground of lace or net would be produced without any

page_text: spots therein; and in order to produce spots at particular meshes, which for
the time being are being formed across the machine, the warp threads on
which such spots are to be made (each by two bobbin threads) will require to
I have their rackings varied from those warp threads which for the time
being are not to have spots made thereon, and such variation of the
racking of the warp threads which are to have spots formed thereon
is, according to the arrangement shown, caused to take place by the introduc-
tion of the intercepters e, e, there being as many of such intercepters e as
there are bobbin threads. I would however remark, that this order might bo
reversed by having the cut of wheels suitable for producing the movements
consequent on the introduction of the intercepters, and the intercepters might
be introduced to prevent the making of the spots, but I prefer to arrange
the
parts as shown. I would here state that similar instruments in lace machines
have before been used, and they and their manner of being worked into and
from the warp threads by cams being well understood, I have not thought it
necessary to show cams to actuate the lockers fand g for working the inter-
cepting instruments e, and as the times of their entering into and passing out
from between the warp threads are marked in the lace wheels c, d, a workman
will so form his cams as to carry the intercepters into and out of the warp
threads as to act accordingly; and he will so arrange his Jacquard or other
pattern surfaces which are employed to act on the intercepting instruments as
to cause the intercepting instruments to stand in or out of the way of the
back locker, and so that those of them which are to go into the warp threads
may be carried forward by such back locker g. The machine as arranged has
only half as many slackening instruments as there are bobbin threads, hence,
according to the arrangement shown, spots cannot be made over every hole
or mesh across the machine, but only across every other mesh or hole. h, h,
are a series of independent slackening instruments to act in such manner as to
slacken off the bobbin threads, and there is one such slackening instrument to
each pair of neighboring bobbin threads across the machine, and the end of
each of the slackening instruments h is wide enough to come against and
slacken off thread from each of the pair of bobbin threads standing opposite
to it; the object being that the spots should not be drawn up too tightly,
which would be the case if the bobbin threads were not free from the tension
at which they work when making other parts of the fabric.
And the object of the second part of my Invention is so to act in respect to
the bobbin threads of twist-lace machinery that they may at any time be
relieved of their tension by means of independent instruments, which it is
preferable should act directly on the threads so as to overcome for the time

page_text: being the pressure of the springs of the bobbin carriages. And I would state
that I am aware that it is not new to slacken the bobbin threads generally by
acting directly on the bobbin threads, but heretofore such slackening of the
bobbin threads has been performed by instruments or bars, so that several
slackening instruments necessarily acted simultaneously, and therefore when
any one was brought into action many others were necessarily brought into
action also, and at every time of repeating the action of one such instrument
all the instruments carried by the same bar where necessarily brought into
action at the same time, hence the pattern consequent on such slackening was
necessarily very limited; but by having each slackening instrument indepen-
dent they may be acted on in any order desired, and the action of one wouk!
not govern the action of another. The use of independent instruments for
slackening bobbin threads, tho' principally useful when making spots, may also
be used in all cases where it is desired to slacken the bobbin threads of twist-
lace machines; and although one independent instrument is used to slack two
bobbin threads, each bobbin thread to be acted on may, if desired, have a
separate slackening: instrument. And although I have shown the slackening
instruments as moving on axes, yet other arrangements or constructions may
be used, so. long as they are capable of being made to act independently of
cach other. In working the intercepters in conjunction with the slackening
instruments h, according to the arrangement shown, two intercepters are to be
caused to enter between the two warp threads, with which a pair of bobbin
threads are to work to produce a spot; hence two neighboring intercepting
instruments are to be acted on by their pattern surface, so that they may be
moved in amongst the warp threads and pass between two warp threads,
which for the time being are working with two bobbin threads to produce a
spot. The independent slackening instruments are shewn to have threads
applied to them, in order that they may be selected by Jacquard machinery, but
other pattern surfaces may be used. The pattern surfaces select those slackening
instruments which are for the time being to slacken the bobbin threads which
are opposite to them, and move them a short distance, when the blade of, the
locker i will move the selected slackeners so as to bring them in a position to
slacken the bobbin threads. Those slackeners which for the time being are
not raised by the pattern surface, will not come into action on their bobbin
threads. The locker bar i is to be actuated by a cam or otherwise in suclr
manner that it will move up the blade immediately the selection of the slack-
ening instruments has taken place by the pattern surface, and then to let the
blade go back as the carriages move from the back combs, and the selection
should take place as the carriages are moving into the front combs, and the

page_text: locker bar should have the selected slackening instruments in position for the
bobbin threads to come against them as the carriages come into the back
combs or bolts, and thus to have the threads drawn off. And in order to
ensure the whole of the slackening instruments moving back as the locker
blade goes down, the bar k descends by its own gravity, it being retained in
position by screws passing through slots, as shewn in the Drawings. Tho
taking up the work as it is made I prefer to be performed by three point bars
m, n, and o, each point bar having as many points as there are warp threads.
The front points are caused to dip as near the carriage heads as may br;
and they are to be caused to take up every other time, and they are to
take up when the spotting warp threads are separate, and not when
across each other, the front points not taking up the work all the way,
but only to such a position that the back points n may come in under the
front points, and take the work from the front points and go up with it, the
front points going out to allow the back points, after they have entered the
threads, to take the work, the front points o going out as the back points come
up, to allow of the back points bringing the work completely up, when the
front points o again enter under the back points, in order to the back points
being allowed to go out again to be in a position to take the work when tho
points m again bring it up. Heretofore when taking up bobbin spots made by
the aid of slackening instruments the points have not taken the bobbin threads
till they have been slackened. And it forms part of my Invention, when
working with rotatory single-tier machinery, to cause the points which are, in the
act of taking up, to be so worked as to enter well between the bobbin threads
before the slackening of those threads takes place. The cams q, r, s, are those
used for causing the point bars m, n, o; respectively to act as above described.
In carrying out this part of the Invention, when making straight down
or linked net or lace, various arrangements of twist-lace machinery may be
used. But I believe the machinery above described, and what are called
single-tier roller locker, are the descriptions of machinery most useful for the
purpose, where independent slackening instruments are used; and for this
reason I have, in addition to the Drawings marked A, also annexed another
Drawing marked B, where so much of a fluted roller single tier machine is
shown, with apparatus suitable for carrying out the first and second parts of
my Invention applied thereto, as will enable a workman to understand how
the apparatus above described is applied to this class of machinery, and the
description above given applies to the same letters of reference on the parts on
this Drawing. The construction and working of fluted roller machines being
well understood it will not be necessary to enter into a description thereof.

page_text: The cut of wheels for working the guide bars a, b, in this machine are the
same as those used in Drawing A, and the taking up of the work is also the
same. When it is desired to make traverse lace or not according to my
Invention, I prefer to use double-locker machines (the other double-tier
machinery may be used), and I have in the Drawings C shown a section
of a double-locker machine and the lace wheels, and also wheels for working
what I call holding out or distending threads. I have also shewn sliding
slackening instruments in place of those before shewn and described, as they
may be more conveniently used in this class of machine. I have also shewn
cams for working the locker bars for holding the slackening instruments
towards the threads, and for taking back the slackening instruments. In this
machine the intercepters are actuated by two locker bars, the one for moving
them in, and the other from bringing them back, as described in respect to
the first-mentioned machine. And as the carriages in this machine stand one
behind the other the slackening instruments are so made as to operate on both
threads, as is shown; and in order that they may do so, each slackening
instrument is caused to enter so as to stand in a position between the bobbin
threads, and so soon as the back row of carriage threads have passed the ends
of the slackening instruments the frame carrying the slackening instruments is
to be shogged, so that their ends will stand in the way of the front row
of carriage threads, and the further movement of the back carriage threads
will cause them to come against the projections on the sides of the slackening
instruments, and the front row of bobbin threads will come against the ends of
the slackening instruments, and hence both front and back threads will be
slackened. For this purpose the slackening instruments are carried in combs
which are affixed in a frame which is to be capable of a shogging motion in
a similar manner to a guide bar, and the movement may be done by a cut of
wheel or otherwise. w is the locker bar and the locker bar cam, which
holds the selected sliding slackening instruments in position against the bobbin
threads; and y is the locker bar and z the locker bar cam, which work the
sliding slackening instruments back. The sliding slackening instruments
have at all times a tendency to come forwards, when allowed to do so by the
Jacquard, by the weights s, one to each instrument. The taking up of the
work in this machinery is shewn to be by the ordinary taking up front and
back points, but in order to cause the points to enter correctly the cuts of
wheels u, v, are used. In this machinery, owing to using the ordinary points,
I employ what I call holding or distending threads, which are carried by two
guide bars in the same manner as the warp threads. The distending threads

page_text: are thicker than those used for the lace, and they are to be drawn out when
the lace is made. I would remark, that I do not claim the use of distending
threads, they having before been used by me. The machine is to be worked
in the ordinary manner of double-tier double-locker machines, with the
slackening instruments working in addition thereto by their cams, and they
are to be operated on by Jacquard or other pattern surfaces, which are to be
so worked as to allow those to go down which are to act on the bobbin
threads, the weights & drawing such ones down when permitted, so as to cause
them to come within the action of the locker bar, which forces them into
position and against the bobbin threads. I would state, that although I prefer
that the slackening of the bobbin threads should be done by the independent
instruments acting on the threads themselves, yet the same result may be
obtained by relieving the pressure of the springs of the bobbins by acting
on them by independent instruments. This will readily be understood by
examining the carriage, Figure Z, in the Drawings now under description,
where it will be seen that the carriage has two springs (1) and (2). The
spring (1) is as light as possible, so as just to hold the bobbin in its place,
whilst the spring (2) holds the bobbin stiffly, sufficient for the tension required
in making the lace fabric. The spring (2) rises in such a position as to be
capable of being pressed on by sliding independent instruments, such as above
described, modified suitably for such purpose. The machinery shown by
these Drawings is for producing traversed twist lace or net, and the working
thereof is only altered inasmuch as employing independent instruments in the
manner described. I would here state in respect to the machinery shown
respectively in Drawings A, B, & C, that I do not confine myself to the
particular independent instruments, whether for acting on the warp threads or
for acting on the bobbin threads, so long as independent instruments or instru-
ments capable of being made to act independent of each other, so as to
obtain the results herein described, are employed. And I find it desirable,
whether working with double or single tier carriages with instruments to s
slacken off thread, that the carriage heads should be thickened in order to keep
them steady.
The third part of my Invention consists of making spots, each consisting of
two bobbin threads working with two warp threads, in twist-lace machines,
where linked or straight-down lace or net is made, and where all the car- 3
riages at the same time pass through and through between the warp threads
without stopping in the centre between the combs or bolts, and this I do by
applying suitable spotting apparatus for slackening the bobbin threads. To

page_text: such descriptions of machines this part of my Invention I believe will be best
carried out as described in respect to the Drawings A and B; but in place of
using independent instruments for slackening the bobbin threads as there
described, the slackening may be done by slackening instruments placed on a
bar or bars, in those cases were the spots are to be repeated at like places in
the fabrics which are being produced in the machine, in the same manner to
what has heretofore been done with spotting bars acting on warp threads in
machines where traversed net or lace has been made, and also where straight-
down net or lace has been made in machines where the carriages stop in the
centre between the combs or bolts.. And in place of using independent instru-
ments to act on the separate warp-threads, the warp threads may be acted
on by separate guide bars as heretofore.
Having thus described the nature of my Invention, and the manner in
which I perform the same, I would have. it understood that I do not confine
myself to the details; but what I claim is,-
First, the improvements herein described for making spots in fabrics made
in twist-lace machines (each spot consisting of two bobbin threads acting on
two warp threads), by acting on the warp threads with independent instru-
ments, together with the rackings of the warp threads, to produce such spots
simultaneously with the production of lace and other fabrics by the machinery.
And I also claim the so working of the points of single-tier rotatory machinery,
when making bobbin spots, that the points which are in the act of taking up
shall be well entered into the bobbin. threads before the slackening of the
bobbin threads takes place, when an additional bar is used.
Secondly, I claim the application of independent instruments to act on the
bobbin threads or otherwise in such manner as to draw off the bobbin threads
or slack the springs of bobbin carriages, as herein described; and,
Thirdly, I claim the so arranging twist-lace machines which work to
produce straight-down or linked net, and which cause all the carriages at the
same time to swing through and through between the warp threads without
stopping in the centre between the combs or bolts, that spots may be made in
in the fabrics produced by the aid of instruments for slackening off the
bobbin threads.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Crofts, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Twentieth day of February, in the year of our
W (L.s.) CROFTS.

page_text: AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the Twentieth day of February,
in the year of our Lord 1847, the aforesaid William Crofts came before our
said Lady the Queen in Her Chancery, and acknowledged the Specification
aforesaid, and all and every thing therein contained and specified, in form
above written. And also the Specification aforesaid was stamped according
to the tenor of the Statute made for that purpose.
Enrolled the Twentieth day of February, in the year of our Lord One