CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN THE METHOD OF PREPARING, TREATING, AND FINISHING CUT PILED OR RAISED FUSTIANS AND OTHER SIMILAR GOODS OR FABRICS, AND IN THE MACHINERY OR APPARATUS CONNECTED THEREWITH
Year: 1853

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to James Worrall, junior, of Salford, in the
County of Lancaster, Dyer and Finisher, for the Invention of
"CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN THE METHOD OF PREPARING, TREATING,
AND FINISHING CUT PILED OR RAISED FUSTIANS AND OTHER SIMILAR
GOODS OR FABRICS, AND IN THE MACHINERY OR APPARATUS CONNECTED
THEREWITH"
Sealed the 21st June 1853, and dated the 26th March 1853.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said James Worrall
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition,
on the 26th March 1853.
I, JAMES WORRALL, junior, of Salford, in the County of Lancaster,
Dyer and Finisher, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention
of "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN THE METHOD OF PREPARING, TREATING, AND
FINISHING CUT PILED OR RAISED FUSTIANS AND OTHER SIMILAR GOODS OR
FABRICS, AND IN THE MACHINERY OR APPARATUS CONNECTED THEREWITH,"
to be as follows:

page_text: My improvements relute to the treatment or finishing of fustians,
such as velvets, velveteens, cords, thicksets, and other similar cotton,
linen, or cotton and linen fabrics, having a pile or napped surface when
finished. The Invention consists principally in the introduction of
certain novel processes or operations not hitherto used, by which means
I am enabled to dye up or print the pieces previous to the pile or nap
being cut or raised, thereby dispensing with the process of flour and
lime stiffening, and also that of scouring and cleansing the cloth to
remove the same. And, secondly, in certain suitable apparatus con-
neeted therewith; by which improvements I am enabled to obtain a
much more even and lustrous finish than heretofore, with less expendi-
ture of time and labour.
"
The improved method of preparing, treating, and finishing fustians
is as follows:-The cloth as taken from the loom must first be
"animalized by padding on," or otherwise impregnating it with oil,
grease, soap, or other fatty matter, and afterwards dried over steam
cylinders or in a stove. Secondly, the face of the cloth is to be
hardened and afterwards singed or cantooned by passing over a red hot
singeing plate. Thirdly, the cloth is to be folded in a suitable manner,
and the pieces suspended in a steam cylinder, where they are to be
steamed and subsequently boiled in an alkaline ley for a certain time,
according to the nature of the cloth, de. The cloth must then he
well washed, and all superfluous water be removed by a mangle or
"hydro-extractor." Fourthly, a strong solution of chloride of lime
must be "padded" on to the face of the cloth; then pass the cloth
through a very weak solution of the same, and finish the bleaching in
the usual way. Fifthly, (the piece being dried after bleaching) "pad
on or pass through a mordant composed of gelatine and any suitable
mineral solution, and dye up, if necessary, or print on the cloth the
pattern or figure required. By this arrangement of printing and
dyeing the piece, previous to the pile or nap being cut or raised (which
has hitherto invariably been a subsequent operation), I obtain a very
superior finish, and am enabled to dispense with some of the processes
as before named. Sixthly, the cloth is to be stretched, and the pile
cut or the napped surface raised, the back of the cloth having pre-
原单

page_text: viously been "perched," if a nap is there required. Seventhly, dress
or raise the pile or nap upon the face and back of the cloth by means of
the ordinary dressing or raising machinery, and shear off the face accord-
ing to the finish" required by means of the usual shearing apparatus.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said James Worrall, in the Great Seal Patent Office,
on the 26th September 1853.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I,
JAMES WORRALL, junior, of Salford, in the County of Lancaster, Dyer
and Finisher, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Twenty-sixth day of March, in the
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-three, in the
sixteenth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors,
give and grant unto me, the said James Worrall, Her especial licence
that I, the said James Worrall, my executors, administrators, and as-
signs, or such others as I, the said James Worrall, my executors,
administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no
others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the term
therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the
Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "CERTAIN IM-
PROVEMENTS IN THE METHOD OF PREPARING, TREATING, AND FINISHING CUT
PILED OR RAISED FUSTIANS AND OTHER SIMILAR GOODS OR FABRICS, AND IN
THE MACHINERY OR APPARATUS CONNECTED THEREWITH," upon the condition
(amongst others) that I, the said James Worrall, by an instrument in
writing under my hand and seal, should particularly describe and ascer-
tain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is
to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal
Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately after
the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said James Worrall, do hereby de-
clare the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is

page_text: to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement (that is to say):
My improvements relate to the preparation, treatment, or finishing
of fustians, such as velvets, velveteens, cords, thicksets, and other
similar cotton, linen, or cotton and linen textile fabrics, having a piled
or napped surface when finished. My invention consists principally in
the introduction of certain novel processes or operations not hitherto so
used or employed, by which means I am enabled to "dye up" or print
the pieces previously to the pile or nap being cut or raised thereby, also
dispensing with the process of flour and lime stiffening, and also that
of scouring and cleansing the cloth in order to remove the same, which
processes are objectionable and frequently injurious to the cloth; and
secondly, in certain suitable apparatus connected therewith: by which
said improvements I am enabled to obtain upon such cotton, linen, or
cotton and linen textile fabrics a superior finish, a more permanent
color, and a more even, silky, lustrous, and uniform pile or napped
surface than has been hitherto produced upon such fabrics by the
inethod and processes heretofore employed.
Before proceeding to describe the manner of carrying my invention into
practical effect, I shall enumerate briefly the various processes as hitherto
employed, and their relative arrangement or order as now commonly
practised in finishing such or similar textile fabrics, (that is to say):
First. "Perching," or raising the nap upon the back of the cloth.
Secondly. Stiffening the cloth with flour and lime as a preparation
for the cutter.
Thirdly. Cutting the pile.
Fourthly. Scouring and cleansing the cloth to remove the flour and
lime stiffening previously used.
Fifthly. Dressing or raising the pile.
Sixthly. Singeing off the superfluous pile by passing the cloth over a
red hot dressing iron.
Seventhly. Boiling the cloth in a solution of soda ash or potash.
Eighthly. Bleaching the cloth by chloride of lime.
Ninthly. Dyeing the cloth by "saddening" in a bath containing log-
wood, fustic, or other dyes.

page_text: Tenthly. Applying a mordant to fix the color, (namely,) "taking
off" with a solution of iron, tin, copper, alum, &c.
Eleventhly. "Washing off." (These last three processes of "sadden-
ing," "taking off," and "washing off," are repeated as often as may be
necessary, according to the color required.)
Twelfthly. Stiffening the cloth according to the finish "handle" or
"feel" required.
And lastly. Finishing by waxing and polishing with stone, metal,
mineral, or wood peg.
The various operations or processes which I employ, and their relative
arrangement or order, is as follows:-
"
"
First. The cloth, as taken from the loom, may be animalized by
padding on or otherwise impregnating it with oil, grease, soap, or
other fatty matter, and afterwards dried over steam cylinders or in a
stove.
Secondly. The face of the cloth is to be hardened and afterwards singed
or "cartooned by passing over a red hot singeing plate.
Thirdly. The pieces must be folded upon an improved apparatus (here-
after more particularly described), and placed or arranged by suspension
or upon suitable rails or supports inside a steaming cylinder (also
described hereafter), in such a manner that one piece shall not touch
another, or anything but the apparatus upon which it is folded, being
quite free for perfect immersion in the steam and alkaline ley. The
cylinder must then be filled with high pressure steam, which must be
allowed to remain therein until the cloth and whole apparatus is well
heated, when the steam is to be shut off and the cylinder filled with a
solution of soap, potash, soda ash, soda, or other alkaline ley. When
the cloth has been boiled therein as long as required, it is to be removed
and "washed off" in pure water, and all superfluous water removed by
means of a mangle or "hydro extractor."
Fourthly. A strong solution of chloride of lime must be "padded" on
to the surface of the cloth, which must be then passed through a very
weak solution of the same, and the bleaching finished in the usual
manner, according to the color required.
Fifthly. (The piece being dried after bleaching) "pad on
or pass

page_text: through a mordant composed of gelatine, with a solution of iron, copper,
tin, or other mineral, and dye up, if necessary, or print upon the piece
the pattern or figure required, the "padding" or printing answering
for the mordant to fix the color required, and also for the stiffening
for the cutter as well as for the "feel" or "handle" required when
finished.
Sixthly. The cloth may now be stretched upon a stretching machine,
in order to bring the warp and weft threads as nearly as possible into
their original rectangular position; and the pile may then be cut, or the
napped surface raised in the usual manner, the back of the cloth having
been previously "perched," if a nap is there required.
Seventhly. Should the cloth require an extra "feel" or "handle," it
may be again stiffened at the stage of the
process.
Eighthly. The pile or nap upon the face and back of the cloth must
now be dressed or raised by means of the ordinary dressing or raising
machinery, and the face shorn off by the usual shearing machinery,
according to the finish required.
I would here remark, that for some purposes, as in black or very
dark shades of color, or where a cheaper and inferior finish will answer,
the animalizing and bleaching processes may be dispensed with; and
yet, by this novel and improved mode of treatment, I am enabled to
dispense with or abandon the process of flour and lime stiffening, and
also the process of scouring and cleansing the cloth to remove the same.
And by transposing the process of cutting or forming the pile from once
of the earliest operations, and previously to the cloth being dyed or
printed, to one of the latest processes, and subsequently to the cloth
being dyed or printed, I materially improve the arrangement of the
operations or processes; and I wish it to be particularly observed that
this transposition of the cutting process is a very important feature in
my Invention, as thereby a superior finish is obtained, and the crushed
and cloudy appearance of the pile, hitherto inevitable, is thereby avoided.
Also, by applying the process of singeing previously to cutting, and by
dispensing with tho singoing after cutting the pile, and substituting that
of shearing by machinery, I obtain much more satisfactory results, and
also save much time and labor in the process of bleaching.

page_text: In order more particularly to describe the novel apparatus employed
in the third process, I have attached to these presents a sheet of drawings
illustrative of the same, and have marked thereon figures and letters of
reference corresponding with those in the following description thereof.
Fig. 1, is a longitudinal section of the steaming cylinder and its
apparatus; and Fig. 2, is a transverse section of the same.
a, a, is
the body of the cylinder supported upon brickwork b, b. The end c, c,
of the cylinder is moveable for the admission of the cloth, whilst the
other end d, d, is fixed and supports a bar c, e, which is further
strengthened and supported by the gussets f, f; g, g, is the pipe for
admitting steam to the cylinder, and h, h, is a pipe for admitting the
alkaline ley. This pipe h, h, communicates from the bottom of the
steaming cylinder with a cistern placed at a considerable elevation
above the said cylinder. i, i, is another pipe leading also to the alkali
cistern, but from the top of the steaming cylinder, and finished with
a safety valve. k, k, is a hollow cylindrical frame or cage, upon
which the fabric to be operated upon is rolled. The form and con-
struction of this "cage" is clearly shewn in Figs. 3, and 4, which are
plan and end views of the same. A sufficient length of cloth having
been rolled upon the frame k, l, it is placed in the cylinder a, a, and
the end c, c, closed; steam is then admitted by the pipe g, g, and sub-
sequently alkaline ley is admitted by the pipe h, h, which, as it boils,
rises up the pipe i, i, to the alkali cistern above, whilst fresh alkaline
ley descends by the pipe h, h, to supply its place, and thus a constant
circulation of boiling alkaline ley is kept up. The hollow form of
the frame h, k, allowing the cloth to become saturated with perfect
equality throughout. It will be evident that the steaming cylinders
may (if preferred) be placed in a vertical position, and that each
cylinder may be made to contain two or more frames, if thought
desirable.
60
Having thus described the nature and object of my said improve-
ments, together with the manner of carrying the same into practical
effect, I would remark, in conclusion, that I claim as my Invention
the improved method of preparing, treating, and finishing cut piled
or raised fustians and other similar goods or fabrics, as above par-

page_text: ticularly described, more especially the dyeing or printing the piece
previously to cutting or raising the pile; and, secondly, the improved
apparatus connected therewith, as exhibited in the drawings annexed
and above particularly described.
In witness whereof, I, the said James Worrall, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Twenty-third day of September, in the
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-three.
JAMES WORRALL, j'. (LS.)