IMPROVEMENTS IN BRIMS AND BANDS OF HATS
Year: 1880

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Herbert John Haddan, of the Firm of Herbert and
Company, Solicitors of Patents, of 67, Strand, in the City of Westminster,
Civil Engineer, for an Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN BRIMS AND BANDS
OF HATS." A communication from abroad by John Peters and Lloyd
Wiegand, both of the City of Philadelphia, State of Pennsylvania, United
States of America.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Herbert John Haddan at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 11th October 1880.
HERBERT JOHN HADDAN, of the Firm of Herbert and Company, Solicitors of
"IMPROVEMENTS
Patents, of 67, Strand, in the City of Westminster, Civil Engineer.
IN BRIMS AND BANDS OF HATS." A communication from abroad by John Peters
and Lloyd Wiegand, both of the City of Philadelphia, State of Pennsylvania,
United States of America.
The Invention relates to the brim and bands of that class of hats having stiffened
rims, and covered with fur, silk, wool, cloth, or plush, or other textile or felted
fabric; and has for its object the making of hats readily adapting themselves to
the form of the head of the wearer, and therefore more comfortable and easy, and
incidentally less liable to stain from perspiration or grease penetrating through the
band, and at the same time more durable.
The nature of this Invention may be briefly stated to consist in a new and
merchantable article of manufacture, to wit, a moulded brim and band formed of
lamina of cloth, having incorporated with it a compound caoutchouc and a resinous
or adhesive substance or substance which becomes adhesive upon the application
of heat. These brims and bands are made thin and stiff at the outer edge of the
brim, and gradually thickening and more elastic towards the junction of the brim
and band, and gradually thinning or feathering out to a thin edge from that point
to the upper part of the band, having a surface adapted to adhere to the side,
crown, or cylindrical part of the hat body. Such rims and bands when applied to
the crown produce a hat which automatically adapts itself to the form of the head
of the wearer, and at the same time preserves a smooth and presentable appearance
in the brim and side body, and are measurably, if not wholly, impervious to
moisture and grease from the head or hair.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed
by the said Herbert John Haddan in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
4th April 1881.
.
HERBERT JOHN HADDAN, of the Firm of Herbert and Company, Solicitors of
Patents, of 67, Strand, in the City of Westminster, Civil Engineer. IMPROVEMENTS
IN BRIMS AND BANDS OF HATS."
A communication from abroad by John Peters
and Lloyd Wiegand, both of the City of Philadelphia, State of Pennsylvania,
United States of America.
This Invention relates to the rims and bands of that class of hats having stiff
rims, covered with silk, fur, felt, or any textile fabric; and has for its object the
making a more durable hat by imparting to it a degree of toughness, flexibility,
and elasticity at the inner part of the rim and of a band at their point of union,
the making of such parts impervious to perspiration and grease, and, by reason of
its flexibility at that part, rendering the bat more easy and comfortable to the
wearer. The nature of the Invention consists in a new and merchantable article
of manufacture, to wit, a molded brim and band, formed of lamine of cloth having
incorporated with it a compound of caoutchouc and a resinous substance, adhesive
when heat is applied thereto, made thin and stiff at the outer edge of the brim,
gradually thickening and more elastic toward the junction of the brim and band,
and gradually thinning out from that point to the upper part of the band, having
a surface adapted to adhere to the side, crown, or cylindric part of the hat body.
Such rims and bands when applied to the crown produce a hat which automatically
adapts itself to the form of the head of the wearer, and at the same time preserves
a smooth and presentable appearance in the brim and side body, and is impervious
to grease and moisture from the head of the wearer. Figure 1 shows the block
upon which is made the first operation; and Fig. 2, a section thereof; Fig. 3, a
mold, in section, for forming the rims; and Fig. 4, a section of the completed hat-
rim. In making the hat-rim I proceed in the following manner :-
-Upon a hori-
zontal board marked A (shown in Fig. 1), having a V shaped groove A¹ of elliptic
form cut in it, I place a layer of cloth B, and cover by plates C and D all that
portion not lying in the groove. Into the groove E, pressed in the cloth B, I
pour a compound formed by dissolving caoutchouc in gasoline, and incorporate by
mixing therein flowers of sulphur. This compound is of the consistency of a thick
cream or paste. I allow the cloth to remain in this block or mold A until the
paste has set, after which I remove it and place it in a mold G, and form it in the
shape of a hat rim with the band attached, and expose it to a temperature not less than
175° Fahrenheit, sufficient to render the paste in the ring elastic. The elastic ring
thus incorporated with the cloth is thickest at the angle where the rim unites with
the cylindric body, and feathers out to the thickness of the cloth at both its inner
and outer edge. These pieces of cloth, having the feathered-edge elastic ring
formed in and on them, I apply to the usual block upon which hat-bodies are made,
and built on them layers of cloth saturated with resinous matter, gum shellac
preferably, so as to form a hat-body of the usual form, the portion of which
embraced in the angle formed by the rim and cylindric body is elastic, while the
cylindric body and outer portion of the rim are increasingly stiff as they recede
from the angle. When the rim thus formed is part of the hat body it may be bent
down into contact with the sides of the hat body without breaking it, as is the
case with other hat bodies, and adapts itself readily to the form of the head of the
wearer, and when worn is not penetrated by moisture or grease from the head of
the wearer, and does not stain the covering materials. The following proportions
of ingredients in making the elastic composition have been found efficient, although
they may be varied:-One pound (avoirdupois) india rubber or gum-caoutchouc

page_text: and one quarter pound each of gum shellac and flowers of sulphur to one gallon of
gasoline. I do not limit myself to the particular proportions of ingredients or the
compound employed, the Invention consisting, as I have stated in the Specification,
of a hat rim having at or near the angle at its junction with the cylindric or oval hat-
body a section having the flexible elastic properties combined with the stiffer outer
rim, and adapted to be used with a cylindric or oval hat body of any material.
I am aware that hats with brims and bands of plated elastic fibrous substances
have been proposed; also that hats with brims and bands formed of a piece or
pieces of sheet caoutchouc or india-rubber inserted between the brim and band
thereof have been made, forming the angle and contiguous parts of the brim and
band wholly of sheet india-rubber of practically uniform thickness. These latter
not having the graduation of thickness to prevent buckling, nor any incorporated
laminæ of cloth, do not offer the suitable surface requisite for the permanent and
secure adhesion of the hat covering material, and are therefore objectionable;
also, I am aware that hat bodies formed from cloth and interposed layers of sheet
india-rubber have been proposed and made. These in consequence of the want of
graduation in thickness of the elastic portion as it recedes from the angle formed
by the brim and band are defective and objectionably clumsy, and all of these
earlier attempted devices just recited I hereby distinctly disclaim.
CLAIM.
A new and merchantable article of manufacture, consisting of a molded hat
brim and band combined, containing an elastic zone of graduated thickness, con-
tiguous to and embracing the angle formed by the brim and band, a stiffened outer
rim, and a surface adapted for adhesion to the side crown of a hat body, substantially
as and for the purpose set forth.
In witness whereof, I, the said Herbert John Haddan, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Fourth day of April, A.D. 1881.