AN IMPROVED COLLAR POR TU N
Year: 1864

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to George Speight, of 5, Saint John Street Road,
Clerkenwell, in the County of Middlesex, Manufacturer, for the Invention
of "AN IMPROVED COLLAR POR TU N"
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said George Speight at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
4th January 1864.
I, GEORGE SPEIGHT, of 5, Saint John Street Road. Clerkenwell, in the
County of Middlesex, Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of the
said Invention for "AN IMPROVED COLLAR FOR THE NECK," to be as follows:-
The object of my Invention is the manufacture of an economical and well
setting collar, especially such as are of paper and textile fabric combined, and
it relates particularly to the description called dux, or those with two angular
portions turned down one at each end. Hitherto this class of collar has
generally been produced of a paper body covered on both sides with strips of
textile fabric, or of a textile fabric body covered with strips of paper (turning
down the end pieces), a raw edge is thus presented at the top. Whereas.
according to my Invention, I cut the upper part of the body of the collar in
an oblique direction, at each side or end at, next, or near to the angular
portions to be turned down, by which two oblique cuts I obtain a flap or
[Price 8d.]

page_text: portion which turn down, so that a fold or bend is presented at the top
instead of a raw edge, and a better set is obtained, the main portion of this
flap lying between the turn-down ends, and its extremities lying under them.
By this method also in collars of paper and textile fabric combined, only one
surface need be covered with textile fabric in the manufacture, namely, that
which when the collar is in wear becomes the inner surface of the band or
part which encircles the neck, and the outer surface of the flap, and of the
end pieces. Instead of forming my flap and band in one piece they may be
in two pieces connected by textile fabric.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said George Speight in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
4th July 1864.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, 1, GEORGE
SPEIGHT, of 5, Saint John Street Road, Clerkenwell, in the County of
Middlesex, Manufacturer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Fourth day of January, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-four, in the twenty-seventh year of
Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and graut unto
me, the said George Speight, Her special licence that I, the said George
Speight, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I.
the said George Speight, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should
at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all
times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully
might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an
Inven-
tion for AN IMPROVED COLLAR FOR THE NECK," upon the condition (amongst
others) that I, the said George Speight, my executors or administrators,
by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands
and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said
Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause
the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar
months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said George Speight, do hereby declare
the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the

page_text: following statement thereof, reference being had to the accompanying Drawings,
and to the letters and figures marked thereon, that is to say:--
The object of my Invention is the manufacture of an economical and well
setting collar, especially such as are made of paper and textile fabric combined,
and it relates particularly to the description called "dux or those with two
angular portions turned down one at each end. Hitherto this class of collar
and collars of a similar description have generally been produced of a paper
body covered on both sides with strips of textile fabric, or of a textile fabric
body covered with strips of paper with turned down end pieces, and a raw
edge has hitherto been presented at the top. Whereas, according to my
Invention, I cut the upper part of the body of the collar in an oblique direction
at each side or end at or next the angular portions to be turned down. By
means of these two oblique cuts I obtain a flap or portion which I turn down
so that a fold or bend is presented at the top instead of a raw edge, and a
more comfortable set is obtained, the main portion of this flap lying between
the turn-down ends and the extremities (of this main portion) lying under them.
By this method also in collars of paper and textile fabric combined, only one
surface need be covered with textile fabric in the manufacture, namely, that
which when the collar is in wear becomes the inner surface of the band or
part which encircles the neck, and the outer surface of the flap and of its end
pieces. Instead of forming my flap and band in one piece, they may be in
two pieces connected by textile fabric.
Having thus set forth the nature of my Invention, I proceed particularly to
describe, with reference to the Drawings, in what manner the same may be
performed.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.
Figure 1 is a plan of the outer side of my improved collar, and Figure 2, plan
of the inner side thereof. The plan, Figure 3, shews the collar before forming
the oblique cuts and folding down the flap; and plau, Figure 4, shews the
same after making the cuts and folding the flap, except its ends, which are
shewn raised to exhibit the shape of the flap.
A, A', is the collar, it is composed of paper, to one side or surface of which
linen or other textile fabric is cemented. The collar is bent or folded longi-
tudinally at a, and the part A' is turned down and forms what I call the flap.
The part A is intended to come next or directly encircle the wearers' neck,
and forms what I call the band. In the part A' I make two oblique cuts b, b,
and thereby obtain the oblique lateral edges b¹; the parts or ends beyond these
cuts form the angular ends c, c; when these are turned down, their inner

page_text: edges lie over the lateral edges b' of the rest of the flap, as shewn in dotted
lines, Figure 1. I prefer to round off the corners of the edges b' of the flap,
as shewn. I sometimes round off the corners of the ends .c. The flap may
lie over the tie, scarf, or neckerchief, or the part of it between the ends may
be cemented to the band; d, d, are button holes. In my improved collar a
fold a instead of a raw edge is obtained at the top of the band A, and the
paper need only be covered with textile fabric on one side, that is to say, on
that side which when the collar is in wear forms the inner surface of A (or
surface next the neck), and the outer surface of A' and when these are
folded down. The part A may be cut separate from the part' A', and the two
connected and jointed together by the linen or other textile covering.
Having now described the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner
the same may be performed, I declare that I claim as of my Invention, a collar
having a flap A' with two oblique cuts b, as described for the purpose set
forth.
In witness whereof, I, the said George Speight, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this First day of July, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and sixty-four.
Witness,
E. DE PASS,
84, Fleet Street,
London, E.C.
G. SPEIGHT. (L.S.)