IMPROVEMENTS IN WEAVING AND BROCADING DESIGNS AND FIGURES ON SILKS AND OTHER FABRICS ">
Year: 1883

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Charles Kipling of the firm of Kipling Dennler
"
& Co of Wood Street in the City of London, Silk Manufacturers and Samuel
William Brown foreman to the said firm for an Invention of IMPROVEMENTS
IN WEAVING AND BROCADING DESIGNS AND FIGURES ON SILKS AND OTHER
FABRICS
">
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Charles Kipling
and Samuel William Brown at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents
on the 9th May 1883.
WILLIAM CHARLES KIPLING of the firm of Kipling, Dennler & Co of Wood
Street in the City of London, Silk Manufacturers, and SAMUEL WILLIAM BROWN,
foreman to the said firm "IMPROVEMENTS IN WEAVING AND BROCADING DESIGNS
AND FIGURES ON SILKS AND OTHER FABRICS
"
The chief object of this Invention is to weave into a fabric, designs and figures
on one side or surface only so that the other or opposite surface or side does not
show the mark, design or figure, instead of accomplishing it by stamping or
printing on the surface, and the invention is particularly applicable to the weaving
in of for example Trade Marks and other patterns on umbrella and parasol silks.
We are aware that attempts have been made to produce such a figured fabric but
hitherto without success, and we are also aware that designs have been produced
on the surface of one side only but in these cases either the warp or weft has
pierced through to the opposite surface, whereas according to this invention this
defect is obviated. In carrying the invention into effect we employ a rise of two
sets of warps and a distribution of three sets of shutes or wefts so as to produce a
perfect figure and ground of a distinct tie on one side of fabric and a perfect plain
ground either glacé or twilled on the other side of the fabric.
In the production of this fabric we use a so called Jacquard machine and

page_text: "Mounteur" for the figured side or surface using one cane set of warp only and a
plain harness using the other cane or set of warp for the opposite side or surface
and when the figure or design is not required we work the two sets of canes or
warps together as one set and thus make a perfect plain fabric either glacé or
twilled with one shute or weft only.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said William Charles Kipling and Samuel William Brown in the Great
Seal Patent Office on the 9th November 1883.
WILLIAM CHARLES KIPLING of the firm of Kipling Dennler & Co of Wood
Street in the City of London Silk Manufacturers and SAMUEL WILLIAM BROWN
foreman to the said firm "IMPROVEMENTS IN WEAVING AND BROCADING DESIGNS
AND FIGURES ON SILKS AND OTHER FABRICS
"
The chief object of this invention is to weave into a fabric designs and Figures
on one side or surface only so that the other or opposite surface or side does not
show the mark design or figure instead of accomplishing it by stamping or printing
on the surface and the invention is particularly applicable to the weaving in of for
example trade marks and other patterns on umbrella and parasol silks.
We are aware that attempts have been made to produce such a figured fabric but
hitherto without success, and we are also aware that designs have been produced
on the surface of one side only, but in these cases either the warp or weft has
pierced through to the opposite surface, whereas according to this invention this
defect is obviated.
In carrying the invention into effect we employ a rise of two sets of warps and
a distribution of three sets of shutes or wefts so as to produce a perfect figure and
ground of a distinct color and tie on one side of the fabric and a perfect plain
ground either glacé satin or twilled on the opposite side.
In the production of this fabric we use a so called "Jacquard" machine and
"mounteur" for the figured side or surface using a brocade shuttle of any color
and a figured ground shuttle for one cane or set of warp only and a plain -harness
of any given number of "lammes" to manipulate the required tie and a ground
shute or weft for the other cane or set of warp for the opposite side or surface and
when the figure or design is not required we work the two canes or sets of warp
together as one set using only a ground shute or weft and we thus make a perfect
plain fabric either satin glacé or twilled with one shute or weft only.
The two warps or canes are interlaced or locked together with a ground shute
or weft and by means of threads of warp being acted upon by a card of the
Jacquard machine according to the tie or kind of twill required on the opposite
surface or side, for instance if the opposite surface or face is required a six "lamme."
.twill we use the fourth and tenth cards of the Jacquard machine in rotation taking

page_text: one card and missing five cards all through the figured part and thus form a
complete double fabric.
"
The order of weaving is as follows:-With the first pick we make satin glacé or
twilled ground from the harness or lammes; with the second pick we make a
brocade from the "mounteur;" the third pick is a ground from the "mounteur
to form a perfect back to the figure or brocade part; we then repeat in the same
order until the figure or design is complete and then we blend the two sets of
warps together as one set of warp only and use only one shuttle to make the
fabric either satin glacé or twilled as required.
Having now described the nature of our said invention and in what manner the
same is to be performed we declare that we claim.
The application of woven and brocaded designs and figures on one side only of
silks and other fabrics substantially in the manner described.
In witness whereof we the said William Charles Kipling and Samuel William
Brown have hereunto set our hands and seals this Seventh day of November in
the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and eighty three
[LD]
SAMUEL WILLIAM BROWN (L.S.)