IMPROVEMENTS IN LACE MADE BY MACHINERY
Year: 1884

page_text: DIECIFICATION.
I, PETER JENSEN, of 33, Chancery Lane, in the County of Middlesex, Fellow of
tho Institute of Patent Agents, do hereby declare the nature of said Invention
for "IMPROVEMENTS IN LACE MADE BY MACHINERY," (A communication to me from
abroad by Albert Henkels, and Ernst Henkels, trading as Alb. and E. Henkels, of
Langerfeld, near Barmen, Prussia) to bo as follows:-
:-
This Invention refers to a peculiar new kind of lace which is produced on braid
and lace machines and consists in the combination of so called rick-rack, or zig-zag,
or serpentine loops (in which the threads are braided close to each other) with any
desired bone lace or open lace ground.
The rick-rack loops are made on a braiding machine, by variously and in a
certain determined order loading or stretching the threads which are to be braided,
the consequence being that the threads which are in less tension will be worked
looser and will form more or less pointed arches between the other extended parts
which are in greater tension. Heretofore such looped work has only been made
singly, or closely connected together, or in combination with even straight loops,
and in the latter two cases the single loops were connected by causing the
equally loaded and the least loaded threads (that is to say, the threads forming
projecting corners of the rick-rack loops) to pass over from one loop into the other
and back.
If it be desired, however, to combine such closely braided rick-rack, or serpentine
loops with two threaded, or three or more threaded open lace work then such an
object is not attainable with the aforesaid mode of combining several rick-rack
loops with each other, for the lace work is always made on braid and lace machines
with rather heavily loaded or strongly stretched threads, while, on the contrary,
those threads of the rick-rack loops which are in least tension must chiefly be
used for connecting, and thus the entry of the lace threads into the loop threads
as well as, vice versa, the entry of the threads forming the rick-rack loops into the
open lace work would, on the one hand, disturb the numerical order of the thread
tensions in the rick-rack loops, while, on the other hand, threads of too small
tension would mix with threads of too great tension in the lace work whereby
[Price Bd.]

page_text: the threads would be prevented from being regularly worked into the differing or
variously formed parts of the lace work.
The lace forming the subject of this invention is made in this manner, that the
connecting threads of the variously made lace parts do not pass from one part into
the other but are only looped into each other and are then brought back into lace
part in question. The rick-rack loop work made of comparatively strong threads
is connected with open lace ground the latter, for instance, on each side, and the
lace ground interlacing or interlooping with the rick-rack work in the middle,
either with the projecting apex parts of same or also with intermediate loop parts;
in the latter case if such intermediate loop parts should happen to have the same
tension as those of the lace ground, and if they are also of the same quality, it is
also possible in that case to run these threads into the lace ground, and vice versa
to run the connecting threads of the latter into the rick-rack loops. In this new
kind of lace the loop work may vary in width in accordance with that of the lace
ground, and two or more such loop parts (of the same or of different widths) may
be combined with any lace ground. The closely braided rick-rack loops may at
one side only be worked into a lace ground or it may be in between two strips of
lace ground without altering the nature or character of the invention. The work
may be all one colour or the parts made in various colours.
The above kind of lace can be made on combined braid and lace machine
constructed according to Büdenbänder's Patent dated 23rd March 1880 N° 1236, or
on machines modified or adapted according to said patent.

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
"
I PETER JENSEN of 33 Chancery Lane in the County of Middlesex, Fellow of
the Institute of Patent Agents do hereby declare the nature of said invention
for "IMPROVEMENTS IN LACE MADE BY MACHINERY (A communication to me
from abroad by Albert Heukels and Ernst Henkels trading as Alb. and E. Henkels,
of Langerfeld near Barmen, Prussia) and in what manner the same is to be
performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:-
This invention refers to a peculiar new kind of lace which is produced on braid
and lace machines, and consists in the combination of so called rick-rack, or zig-zag,
or serpentine loops (in which the threads are braided close to each other) with any
desired bone lace or open lace ground.
The rick rack loops are made on a braiding machine, by variously and in a
certain determined order, loading or stretching the threads which are to be braided
the consequence being that the threads which are in less tension will be worked
looser and will form more or less pointed arches between the other extended parts
which are in greater tension. Heretofore such looped work has only been made
singly, or closely connected together, or in combination with even straight loops,
and in the latter two cases the single loops were connected by causing the equally
loaded and the least loaded threads (that is to say, the threads forming projecting
corners of the rick rack loops) to pass over from one loop into the other and
back.
If it be desired however to combine such closely braided rick rack, or serpentine
loops with two threaded or three or more threaded open lacework then such an
object is not attainable with the aforesaid mode of combining several rick rack
loops with each other, for the lace work is always made on braid and laco-machines
with rather heavily loaded or strongly stretched threads, while, on the contrary,
those threads of the rick rack loops which are in least tension must chiefly be used
for connecting, and thus the entry of the lace threads into the loop threads as well
as vice versa, the entry of the threads forming the rick rack loops into the open
lace work would, on the one hand, disturb the numerical order of the thread tensions
in the rick rack loops, while, on the other hand, threads of too small tension would
mix with threads of too great tension in the lace work whereby the threads would
be prevented from being regularly worked into the differing or variously formed
parts of the lace work.
The lace forming the subject of this invention is made in this manner that the
connecting threads of the variously made lace parts do not pass from one part into
the other but are only looped into each other and are then brought back into laco
part in question.
In the accompanying drawing I have in Figure 1 as an example shown a piece
of such lace to an enlarged scale from which the mode in which the rick rack
loop a made of comparatively strong threads is connected with the open lace
ground b, and b¹ on each side (or it may be on one side only) the connection being
at the projecting apex parts of the rick-rack.

page_text: Figure 2 shows another arrangement in which connection is also formed at inter-
mediate loop parts, the loop parts c being connected with the loop parts d of the
lace ground besides having the apex parts a¹ connected thereto.
In the latter case if such intermediate loop parts c should happen to have the
same tension as those d of the lace ground, and if they are also of the same quality,
it is also possible in that case to run these threads into the lace ground, and vice
versa, to run the connecting threads of the latter into the rick rack loops. In this
new kind of lace the loop work may vary in width in accordance with that of the
lace ground and two or more such loop parts (of the same or of different widths)
may be combined with any lace ground. The closely braided rick rack loops may
at one side only be worked into a lace ground or it may be in between two strips
of lace ground without altering the nature or character of the invention. The work
may be all one colour or the parts made in various colours.
The above kind of lace can be made on combined braid and lace machines
constructed according to Budenbander's Patent dated 23rd March 1880 N° 1236, or
on machines modified or adapted according to said patent.
'
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of said invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I claim
as the invention communicated to me is
The manufacture of a new kind of machinery lace consisting of a combination
of closely plaited rick-rack loops and open pattern or bone lace as set forth.
BREWER & JENSEN,
For the Applicant.