IMPROVEMENTS IN THE FORMATION OF SKIRT WAIST BANDS, AND IN APPARATUS FOR WEAVING WEBS FOR SUCH USES.
Year: 1880

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Edward Kenworthy Dutton, of 41, John Dalton Street,
Manchester, in the County of Lancaster, Patent Agent, for an Invention of
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE FORMATION OF SKIRT WAIST BANDS, AND IN
APPARATUS FOR WEAVING WEBS FOR SUCH USES.". A communication from
abroad by Carl Vorwerk, of Barmen, in the Kingdom of Prussia.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Edward Kenworthy Dutton
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 12th May 1880.
EDWARD KENWORTHY DUTTON, of 41, John Dalton Street, Manchester, in the
County of Lancaster, Patent Agent. "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE FORMATION OF
SKIRT WAIST BANDS, AND IN APPARATUS FOR WEAVING WEBS FOR SUCH USES."
[A cominunication from abroad by Carl Vorwerk, of Barmen, in the Kingdom of
Prussia.]
The said Invention relates more particularly to the waist-bands with which such
articles of dress as skirts or petticoats are provided. Previously to the said
Invention the said waist bands have been cut out of ordinary woven material to
the required curved form. According to the said Invention a web is woven in
such a manner as that one selvedge is longer than the other, so that it has a curved
form. To make the material more complete it is, by preference, woven with its
inner lining connected in the weaving by one edge with the outer material, and
also at one or more points in the width of the material, the space between the
united selvedges and the first line of intermediate connection serving for a running
tape when such is required. Waist bands made from the improved material are
stronger, neater, and more durable than ordinary bands, and are produced with an
economy of material. In the wearing of the improved material conically formed
taking-up rollers are employed. In the arrangement adopted when carrying the
Invention into effect three conical rollers are used, namely, two outer rollers and an
intermediate roller of smaller diameter. The axles of these rollers are connected
together by means of bevel gearing, and the intermediate roller is pressed towards
the outer rollers by means of a spring or weight, or of springs or weights. The
surfaces of the rollers are or may be roughened by means of perforated tin, or of
glass or emery, or by any ordinary or suitable means. The rollers are connected
with the taking-up motion of the loom. The web, as it is woven, passes over one
of the outer rollers around the intermediate roller and over the other outer roller
being nipped at two points in its passage. The arrangement may be varied so
long as conically shaped rollers are employed. The improved material may be
found to be useful for other uses than those indicated herein.
'

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said Edward Kenworthy Dutton in the Great Seal Patent Office on
the 10th November 1880.
EDWARD KENWORTHY DUTTON, of 41, John Dalton Street, Manchester, in the
County of Lancaster, Patent Agent. "IMPROVEMENTS IN SKIRT WAIST-BANDS
AND IN THE METHOD OF AND MEANS FOR WEAVING WEBS SUITABLE FOR SUCH
USES." (A. communication from abroad by Carl Vorwerk, of Barmen, in the
Kingdom of Prussia.)
The said Invention relates more particularly to the waist-bands with which such
articles of dress as skirts or petticoats are provided. Previously to the said
Invention the said waist-bands have been cut out of ordinary woven material to
the required curved form. According to the said Invention a web is woven in
such a manner as that one selvedge is longer than the other, so that it has a
curved form. To make the material more complete it is, by preference, woven with
its inner lining connected in weaving by one edge with the outer material, and also
at one or more points in the width of the material, the space between the united
selvedges and the first line of intermediate connection serving for a running tape
when such is required. Waist bands made from the improved material are stronger,
neater, and more durable than ordinary bands, and are produced with an economy
of material. In the weaving of the improved material conically formed taking-up
rollers are employed. In the arrangement adopted when carrying the Invention
into effect three conical rollers are used, namely, two outer rollers and an
intermediate roller of smaller diameter.
In order that the Invention may be fully understood I have attached hereunto
a Sheet of Drawings to which reference will be made hereinafter.
,
In the said Drawings Figs. 1 and 2 indicate the form in which the improved
waist-bands are produced, and Fig. 3 represents such a band in position upon the
wearer; Fig. 4 is a back or inside view, and Fig. 5 an end view partly in section
of the taking up apparatus employed in the weaving of the waist bands. The
waist band is woven with two sets of warps, one set being. composed of yarns
suitable to form the face of the band, and the other set being suitable to form a
lining cloth. In Fig. 2, which is a full size sectional view of the band; a represents
the outer cloth and 6 the lining cloth. In the weaving certain of the picks are
woven into both cloths so as to connect them together, as seen at **, and the two
cloths are also firmly woven together at one selvedge. A running tape can be
drawn into the space between the connected selvedges and the line of connection
or into the other indicated space, or into any other space formed in the same
manner. Such a tape is represented by c in Fig. 1. Owing to the curved form of
the band it sits well upon the waist of the wearer, and as the weft threads are radials
of the curve, they lie in the direction of the strain when the band is in use, and
are therefore better capable of sustaining the weight of the skirt without alteration
of form in the band. In Figs. 4 and 5, d, e, and f, are three conically shaped rollers
having axles which are mounted in a suitably formed bracket g which is secured
to the breast beam h of the loom. The rollers & and fare taking-up rollers and
they revolve in fixed bearings, but the bearings of the intermediate roller e are
fitted to slide, or are slotted so that the said roller can be moved into the space
between the other rollers, the said space being a little less than sufficient to permit
of the intermediate roller passing through. The under roller f is made slightly
larger in diameter, or is caused to revolve somewhat more quickly than the upper
roller d so as to put a certain strain upon the web as it passes through the
apparatus, and by this means the intermediate roller e is drawn by the web into
contact with the two other rollers. At the beginning of the operation a weight or

page_text: spring may be employed to press the roller e inwards, but after the web has been
sufficiently advanced to pass over all the rollers, such weight or spring may be
dispensed with. Although I have shewn three rollers in the Drawings, it will be
understood that two rollers or any suitable number of rollers greater than three
may be used. The taking-up rollers receive motion from a shaft k, which may be
the ordinary shaft which actuates the taking-up motion in a loom constructed to
weave a number of narrow webs. Upon the said shaft is fixed a spur-wheel
which gears with a spur-wheel m which is fixed upon the axle of the roller d.
These wheels by preference are made of such a bevel form as will suit the
inclination of the axle of the roller with respect to the axis of the said shaft. Upon
the said shaft is also fixed a second bevel-wheel h which gears with a wheel o
which is fixed upon the axle of the roller f, these wheels being beveled to suit the
inclination of the axis of the said roller. The shaft is actuated by any ordinary
or suitable means to impart the requisite "taking-up" movements to the rollers d
and f. The last named rollers are or may be covered with sand or emery, or be
otherwise roughened, but the intermediate roller may be smooth. The woven material
passes between the rollers in the direction indicated by the dotted line p, being
nipped between the taking up rollers and the intermediate roller, whereby a regular
taking up action is ensured. It will be readily understood that owing to the
conical formation of the rollers the cloth is taken up to an increasing extent from
one selvedge to the other, whereby the web is produced in a curved form, as
indicated in Fig. 1. To enable the cloth to be so taken up it is necessary to let
off the warp in differing degrees. Theoretically each warp end should be separately
let off from a bobbin, but an aproxinate result is obtained by dividing the warp
into eight different portions, or into any other suitable number of portions, each
portion being on a separate bobbin or beam. The arrangement of the gearing for
actuating the taking-up rollers may be varied. The taking-up apparatus may be
used in the weaving of fabrics. other than waist bands when it is desirable to
produce the curved formation.
Having now fully set forth and indicated the nature of the said Invention, and
means whereby the same may be carried into effect, I would have it to be understood
that what I claim is,-
First. The waist band of the formation, substantially as set forth and indicated.
herein before, and in and by the accompanying Drawings.
And, Secondly. The taking-up motion having conically formed rollers, arranged
and acting substantially as and for the purpose set forth and indicated.
In witness whereof, I, the said Edward K. Dutton, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Ninth day of November, in the year of our Lord Oue
thousand eight hundred and eighty.