Year: 1886

page_text: Date of Application, 1st May, 1886.
Complete Left, 31st Jan., 1887.
Complete Accepted, 1st Mar., 1887.
I JOHN HENRY JOHNSON of 47 Lincolns Inn Fields in the County of Middlesex
Gentleman do hereby declare the nature of this Invention.
This Invention relates to machines for making a stitch resembling that made in
hand sewing that is to say a stitch in which the thread on the right side of the work
appears in distinct loops separated by spaces instead of extending continuously from
each needle puncture to the next as in ordinary lock stitch and chain stitch sewing.
These machines are specially designed for sewing straw braid into lats bonnets and
other articles.
The Invention has more particular reference to that class of straw sewing machines
in which needles or sewing implements attached to a carrier below the work plate are
thrust upward through the work and co-operate with one or more looping devices
supported above the presser foot.
The Invention consists first in mechanism for given a variable stroke to the needle
carrier which mechanism is self adjusting according to the thickness of the work. In
the class of machines referred to such a variable movement is desirable in order that
the upper part of the stroke may conform to the position of the looping devices which
are made to rise and fall with the presser foot in order that they may always be as
close as possible to the upper surface of the work. To effect the necessary variation
in the needle movement automatically some adjustable device whose adjustment
changes the needle stroke is connected with the presser foot by intermediate
mechanism so that the distance of the presser foot from the work plate due to the
interposed thickness of work determines the position of the adjustable device. This
intermediate mechanism will for convenience be hereafter termed the controller
mechanism. It may of course be made in a variety of forms the essential point being
that it constitutes a connection between the proper needle working mechanism or
some adjustable part thereof and the presser foot or some equivalent part of the

page_text: machine so as automatically to control or regulate the stroke given to said mechanism.
It is believed to be entirely new to effect an automatic variation of the needles stroke.
The controller mechanism considered best adapted to the purpose will be explained
hereafter. In it are also embodied certain other improvements among which may be
here mentioned the following (a) The adjustable device making part of the needle
operating mechanism is held in place by friction or pressure so that the stroke can be
increased or decreased gradually (b) to prevent accidental shifting of the controller
mechanism an automatic clamp is provided which clamp is relieved at a certain time
so as to allow the controller mechanism then to be readily shifted (c) A loose joint
(such as a pin in a slot or two contact devices which impart positive motion one to the
other in one direction only) admitting of a certain amount of lost motion is provided
in the controller mechanism so as to allow the presser foot to rise and fall with the
feed without changing the needle stroke or to allow the presser foot when the
controller mechanism is clamped and an increased thickness of work passes under
the presser foot to rise without having to overcome the power of the clamp or to allow
both operations to take place. (d) Preferably a spring is combined with the controller
mechanism for keeping the parts of this loose joint together except when its force is
resisted by the controller clamp. If therefore an increased thickness of work comes
under the presser foot while the clamp is on the presser foot rises and the parts of the
joint separate but as soon as the clamp is released the spring brings the parts together
again and shifts the controller mechanism to the desired extent. This release is or
may be always effected before the needles again rise to the top of their stroke and
preferably before they enter the work. By releasing the clamp only when the feed
surface is about to go out of action it is evident that only a slight change takes place
in the controller mechanism in consequence of the feed motion and at high speeds the
amount is reduced by the fact that a little time is required for the spring to overcome
the friction and inertia of the parts. To secure the best results the spring should be
interposed between the presser foot and the adjustable part of the needle operating
mechanism so that its force is mainly exerted in drawing the paris of the loose joint
together and is or may be varied but little with a higher or lower position of the
presser foot.
The Invention also consists in automatic mechanism (such as a cam and connections)
for giving an extra pressure to the presser spring while the needles are thrust through
the work and restoring the normal pressure during the action of the feed. Heretofore
such an extra pressure has been given by the compression of a spring separate from
the presser spring; but this entails a double adjustment in order to vary both the
heavy or extra pressure and the normal pressure and it also involves the use of
duplicate springs and other devices.
The Invention further consists in an independent take up in combination with the
special stitch forming mechanism composed of an eye pointed needle, a hook needle
and one or more looping devices. The looping devices consist preferably of a looper
and threader and they operate to take the loop from the eye pointed needle and insert
it under the barb of the hook needle. The independent take-up is so called in
contradistinction to a take-up which is formed by the needle-carrier; or is operated
synchronously therewith. The independent take-up is operated by a cam and can be
given such movements as are found most desirable for tightening the stitch or for
other purposes. Practically, as the peculiar stitch, made by the eye-pointed and hook
needles and the co-operating looping devices, is rather difficult to tighten properly, the
independent take-up is an important improvement over the needle carrier take-up
heretofore employed in the combination. The best form of take-up, or what is
considered the best, will be shewn, and in it are embodied several minor improvements
consisting principally in the special shape of certain parts of the take-up cam. For
example, it is found desirable for the take-up to draw upon the thread during the
ascent of the needles until the eye-pointed needle begins to push the loop through the
work and then to give up the thread during the remainder of the rise. The take-up
cam is shaped to give to the take-up suitable movements at the proper time. It is
further found desirable for the take-u to give up the thread not so fast as it is

page_text: required by the eve-pointed needle in order that the needle may be compelled to draw
in the thread which is reeved around the material to form the preceding stitch, and
thus further to tighten it, unless this has already been drawn in as tight as desirable,
and in that case to draw thread through the tension. This effect of making the
eye-pointed needle tighten the preceding stitch as it is pushing the loop through
the work is quite important with straw goods on account of the extensible nature of the
latter, because in making the preceding stitch, the feed has stretched the goods and it
is now released from the feed surface and can be contracted by the tightening of the
stitch. In order to insure the throwing of a proper loop to be taken by the looper,
the thread is slackened by the take-up before the loop is thrown, that is, when the
needles reach the top of their stroke.
The Invention also consists in a variably intermittent tension, that is to say, a
tension which is not only intermittent in its action, being opened and closed at proper
times by a moving part of the Sewing Machine, but in which also an adjustment is
provided whereby it may be held open longer or not so long at the same stage in the
operation of the machine according to said adjustment. Heretofore it has been
customary to provide some forms of intermittent or automatic tension apparatus with
an adjustable device in order that the tension may be set to open and close at the
proper times, but when once set, it is not varied in order to accomplish any effect in
the operation but remains unaltered for all fabrics and all lengths of stitch, and means
are commonly provided to prevent a ready alteration. In the present Invention the
variation is designed to allow more or less thread to be drawn through according to
the length of stitch. It is therefore most advantageous to connect the adjustable part
of the tension with the adjustable part of the feed mechanism, so that the adjustment
of one effects simultaneously and to the proper extent the adjustment of the other
without further care on the part of the operator.
Moreover, the opening and closing of the tension is so timed relatively to the
take-up that the latter is rendered in effect a variable take-up. The adjustable part of
the tension may be, and preferably is, a cam moveable to change the surface which
acts upon the roller to open and close the tension.
It is further found desirable to increase or diminish the degree of tension with the
length of stitch. Devices for making such changes therefore are or may be combined
with the mechanism for changing the times at which the tension is applied and
released. It is not new to combine with a tension apparatus and feed regulating
mechanism devices for varying the degree of tension in accordance with the length of
stitch, but the novelty of this improvement consists in having both the degree of the
tension and the times for applying and releasing the same variable together.
The Invention also consists in a special feed mechanism in which the feed bar is
attached to a feed rocker at the rear end and is operated by two eccentrics, one an
invariable eccentric to raise and lower the feed surface, and the other an adjustable
eccentric to impart the back and forth movements thereto. The adjustable feed
eccentric is connected with the adjustable tension cam.
A further improvement in the feed mechanism is an arrangement of mechanical
connections, such that the feed surface rises at the same place, whatever the length of
stitch, the variations in the feed movement taking place at the end and not at the
beginning of the advance.
This is not of course a new effect in feed mechanism: but it is believed to be now
first accomplished in a feed mechanism, wherein an eccentric adjustable transversely
to its shaft so as to increase and diminish its eccentricity is employed to produce the
back and forth movements.
The Invention also consists in a feed mechanism comprising as part of the regular
feeding and feed controlling devices, or in addition thereto, means whereby in the running
of the machine a force is generated which tends to lengthen the stitch and retaining
devices so adjusted or having such resistance as to withstand the said force at a low
speed, but to be overcome thereby at a higher speed, and thus permit the stitch
automatically to be lengthened in passing from a low to a high speed. This increase
is desirable in sewing straw braid into hats, because in sewing around the small circles

page_text: at the centre of the crown or tip, at which it is customary to begin, it is necessary to
use short stitches; and as the circles increase in diameter longer stitches may be used
with advantage. To have it effected automatically is desirable, because at this time
especially the attention of the operator is or should be concentrated on the work and
both bands are then employed in holding the work. As the running of the machine
is naturally slow in starting the tip and is increased as the diameter of the circles
increase, the utilization of force generated by the speed of running can advantageously
be employed.
In the machine considered the best embodiment of this and the other improvements,
the operative force is an effect of the inertia of the feed bar and other reciprocatory
parts, but the Invention is not limited to this precise mode of producing it.
To prevent the resistance of the work in feeding from shifting the feed controlling
devices and thus shortening the stitch, a pawl is provided, which when in engagement,
prevents motion of said devices in that direction but permits them so to move as to
lengthen the stitch.
To prevent the stitch being increased beyond a predetermined length, a stop is
provided which can be set to arrest the automatic movement. Provision is also made
for permitting the operator to lengthen or shorten the stitch by hand.
The Invention further consists in a construction of feed bar needle carrier and work
plate to facilitate the handling of the work, the work plate of small dimensions projects
beyond the main part of the machine frame, and the needle carrier and feed bar,
which as well as their operating mechanisms are arranged below the work plate, are
provided with brackets or lateral projections for carrying the needles and feed surface
respectively. The bodies of the needle carrier and feed bar, as well as that of the
machine frame, are thus off to one side, and the work can easily be passed around
under the brackets or lateral projections.
The feed bar and needle carrier with the operating mechanism being below the work
plate only the presser foot and necessary guides are above the same.
The presser
foot is attached to the end of a horizontal arm so that the work can be bent over it if
occasion require. By these dispositions the work can very readily be turned into the
various positions required in shaping different articles or different parts of the same
article.
The invention also consists in an arrangement of the looper and threader on the
inside of the needles so that the thread can be passed through the eye of the eve
pointed needle from the outside and when the needle is below the work plate the
looper and threader and their operating mechanism being suitably modified to adapt
them to their new position. The threader moves outward between the needles in order
to lay the thread around the blade of the hook needle below the barb.
The invention also consists in a new or improved system of adjustable guides
adapted to co-operate with the stitch forming mechanism by directing the straw braid
properly thereto.
The invention lastly comprises certain new constructions, combinations and
arrangements of parts as hereinafter set forth.
The invention is or may be carried into effect as follows. The machine frame
consists of a rectangular body provided with a base in which the said body is set and
having a hinged cover. The base is adapted to retain the oil which may drip into the
same. The body is provided at the back with rounded projections which when the
same is tipped back to oil or repair parts rest in hollowed bases on the base so as to
serve as a sort of hinge.
The moving parts are mainly within the frame. The motions are conveyed from a
main shaft extending lengthwise of the machine. This shaft carries the needle
excentric the take up cam, the extra pressure cam, the clamping cam, the tension cam
and feed slide, the threader cam the looper cam the adjustable feed eccentric and the
feed lifting eccentric.
The motions are conveyed to the needle carrier the take up the looper and the
threader through rock shafts the proper cam or eccentric acting directly or indirectly
upon a lever arm at one end of a rock shaft which at or at near the other end is

page_text: connected with the part to be operated. In other cases there is a lever or a system of
levers through which motion conveyed from the cam or eccentric.
In the needle mechanism the operating eccentric is connected by an eccentric strap
and a link with a block adjustable in the arm of the rock shaft which is slotted for
that purpose.
This block is connected by a rock shaft lever arms and links with the moveable arm
which carries the presser foot so that the movements of the presser foot produce a
corresponding change in the position of the block and thus increase or decrease the
needle stroke. The connection is made at one point by a pin which plays in a slot so
that the presser foot can be raised and lowered by the feed without shifting the block
or can be raised by increase in the thickness of the work when the controller
mechanism is clamped. The movable arm (which carries the presser foot) is fixed to
a rock shaft and a leaf spring attached to the rock shaft and its opposite end bears
upon a lug upon a lever arm forming part of the controller mechanism so that said
spring keeps the pin (last above mentioned) at the upper end of its slot except when
the presser foot is lifted after the controller mechanism is clamped. It is preferred
that when the presser foot is raised by hand the presser spring or the lower end of the
slot shall strike the pin and move the controller block even when the clamp is in action.
The clamping cam operates to clamp a tail piece on one of the levers of the
controller mechanism. At one point in the revolution that is when the feed is
descending the pressure of the clamping jaws upon the tail piece is relieved.
The needles are attached to the bracket on the needle carrier by a self centering
clamp. One side of the shank of the needle is flattened in order to prevent the needle
from turning and in flattening more of the metal is cut away in fine than in coarse
needles. The eye pointed needle instead of having a long groove on one side and a
short groove on the other is cut away or flattened at the eye or what is usually the
short grooved side of the needle and the eye is then counterbored or rounded at the
edges. The hook needle has the blade under the barb cut away and rounded on one
or both sides. The edges of the barb are also rounded.
An extra pressure is applied to the presser spring in order more firmly to hold
down the presser foot as the needles are thrust upward through the work. The
tension cam opens the tension to give thread to the looper and threader in placing the
loop in the hook needle, and then allows the same to close. It again opens the tension
at the beginning of the feed advance and maintains it open for a longer time as the
stitch is longer. The tension itself is composed of two tension disks, a stud, a nut, or
the stud, and a spring confined between the nut and an internal shoulder on a sleeve
surrounding the tension stud. The nut has its ends split to produce an elastic
pressure on the stud. The lever which is actuated by the tension cam strikes the end
of the stud in opening the tension. The tension cam is moveable lengthwise of the
shaft and constitutes also the feed slide. It revolves with the shaft. It is shifted by
means of a lever suitably connected therewith so as not to interfere with its rotation.
This lever is connected by a link with the sleeve of the tension apparatus so that as
said lever is moved to shorten the stitch and to permit the tension to close sooner, the
sleeve is moved a corresponding extent to increase the degree of tension on the thread.
This tension lever also carries the pawl hereinbefore referred to. The tension cam or
feed slide is connected with the adjustable feed eccentric by a lever so that by the
sliding of the said cam or slide on the shaft, the lever is tilted and the eccentric is
moved transversely to the shaft. The back and forth movements are imparted to the
feed bar through an eccentric strap or link and a lever, the fulcrum of which lever is
adjustable by the same lever which slides the tension cam back and forth so that the
change in the eccentricity of the eccentric does not change the point at which the
feed surfaces rises.
The work guide and presser foot are attached to a projection of the presser arm by
the same screw. Both of them are shaped to suit the character of work. The presser
foot does not move on the presser arm after it is attached but the work guide is
adjustable so as to bring the guiding edge nearer to or farther from the line of
stitching.

page_text: The guide for the entering blade is attached to a carrier slide. It is adjustable on
said slide by means of a rack and pinion and the carrier slide is also adjustable by
means of a lever so that the braid guide has two adjustments either of which can be
changed without interfering with the other. An eccentric is placed to act as a stop to
limit the levers movement.
An adjustable stop is provided for limiting the motion towards the needle of the
braid guide on its carrier.
In certain kinds of work it is necessary during the operation to move the braid
guide a considerable distance away from the needle in order to take in a strip
composed of several braids. The stop having been once set enables the operater
without special care to restore the braid guide to precisely the position it occupied
before moving it away.
The braid guide has a guide pin under which the braid passes. This pin can be set
nearer to or farther from the work plate according to the thickness of the entering
braid. A guide for the left edge of the entering braid is carried by the braid guide
and is adjustable thereon by means of a rack and pinion. In the feed mechanism the
pivot at the base of the feed rocker on which the latter turns is placed in front of the
pivot at the top of the rocker where the feed bar is hinged to said rocker so that as
the feed bar is advanced the rear end is carried down and the front end of the feed
surface is made the last to leave the work.
The eccentric strap which encircles the needle eccentric is made short and the pivot
is placed above the shaft so as to cause a prolonged slow movement of the needles at
the bottom of their stroke. The eccentric strap of the adjustable feed eccentric is also
made short and the pivot is placed behind the shaft so as to delay the commencement
of the advance of the feed surface and cause the advance to take place more quickly.
The strap which encircles the lifting eccentric is connected by a sliding connection or
tongue and groove with the feed bar. The guides and other parts are graduated or
marked so as to aid in restoring them to the same position when they have been
altered.
The thread is led from the spool through suitable guides or eyes on the front of
the machine to the tension which is also placed on the front of the machine and from
the tension through a guide tube set obliquely in a guide at the corner of the frame to
the take up and thence to the eye pointed needle.
The looper has a hook and is further provided with a vertical wall or shoulder
inside the hook behind which wall or shoulder the finger of the threader moves.
A hand cam or eccentric is provided for adjusting the pressure of the presser
spring.
A hand cam is also provided for lifting the presser foot and the stud on which it
turns is made adjustable by being held in a slot by a set screw.
For sewing coarse braid the toe of the presser foot is made broad and that of the
work guide is made broad also. This form however is unsuitable for fine braid. For
braid having a rough edge or head the work guide, and also the presser foot has a rib
parallel with the line of stitching which ribs bear upon the braids at a suitable
distance from their edge.
J. HENRY JOHNSON,
47, Lincolns Inn Fields, London, W.C.

page_text: Improvements in Straw Sewing Machines.
1 JOHN HENRY JOHNSON of 47 Lincolns Inn Fields in the County of Middlesex
Gentleman do hereby declare the nature of this Invention which has been communicated
to me from abroad by the Willcox and Gibbs Sewing Machine Company of New York
in the United States of America Sewing Machine Manufacturers and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement :-
This Invention relates to machines for making a stitch resembling that made in
hand sewing, that is to say a stitch in which the thread on the right side of the work
appears in distinct loops separated by spaces instead of extending continuously from
each needle puncture to the next, as in ordinary lock stitch and chain stitch sewing.
These machines are specially designed for sewing straw braid into hats bonnets and
other articles.
The Invention has more particular reference to that class of straw sewing machines
in which needles or sewing implements attached to a carrier below the work plate are
thrust upward through the work and cooperate with one or more looping devices
supported above the presser foot.
The Invention consists first in mechanism for giving a variable stroke to the needle
carrier which mechanism is self adjusting according to the thickness of the work. In
the class of machines referred to such a variable movement is desirable in order that
the upper part of the stroke may conform to the position of the looping devices which
are made to rise and fall with the presser foot in order that they may always be as close
as possible to the upper surface of the work. To effect the necessary variation in the needle
movement automatically some adjustable device whose adjustment changes the needle
stroke is connected with the presser foot by intermediate mechanism so that the distance
of the presser foot from the work plate due to the interposed thickness of work
determines the position of the adjustable device. This intermediate mechanism will
for convenience be hereafter termed the controller mechanism. It may of course be
made in a variety of forms, the essential point being that it constitutes a connection
between the proper needle working mechanism, or some adjustable part thereof and
the presser foot or some equivalent part of the machine, so as automatically to
control or regulate the stroke given to said mechanism. It is believed to be entirely
new to effect an automatic variation of the needle stroke. The controller mechanism
considered best adapted to the purpose will be explained hereafter. In it are also
embodied certain other improvements among which may be here mentioned the
following (a) The adjustable device making part of the needle operating mechanism
is held in place by friction or pressure so that the stroke can be increased or
decreased gradually (b) To prevent accidental shifting of the controller mechanism, an
automatic clamp is provided, which clamp is relieved at a certain time so as to allow
the controller mechanism then to be readily shifted (c) A loose joint (such as a pin in
a slot or two contact devices which impart positive motion one to the other in one

page_text: direction only) admitting of a certain amount of lost motions is provided in the controller
mechanism, so as to allow the presser foot to rise and fall with the feed, without
changing the needle stroke or to allow the presser foot, when the controller mechanism
is clamped and an increased thickness of work passes under the presser foot, to
rise without having to overcome the power of the clamp or to allow both operations
to take place (d) Preferably a spring is combined with the controller mechanism for
keeping the parts of this loose joint together, except when its force is resisted by the
controller clamp. If therefore an increased thickness of work comes under the presser
foot while the clamp is on, the presser foot rises and the parts of the joints separate
but as soon as the clamp is released, the spring brings the parts together again and
shifts the controller mechanism to the desired extent. This release is or may be always
effected before the needles again rise to the top of their stroke and preferably before
they enter the work. By releasing the clamp only when the feed surface is about to
go out of action it is evident that only a slight change takes place in the controller
mechanism in consequence of the feed motion, and at high speeds, the amount is reduced
by the fact that a little time is required for the spring to overcome the friction
and inertia of the parts. To secure the best results the spring should be interposed
between the presser foot and the adjustable part of the needle operating mechanism, so
that its force is mainly exerted in drawing the parts of the loose joint together, and is
or may be varied but little with a higher or lower position of the presser foot.
The invention also consists in automatic mechanism (such as a cam and connections)
for giving an extra pressure to the presser spring while the needles are thrust through
the work, and restoring the normal pressure during the action of the feed. Heretofore
such an extra pressure has been given by the compression of a spring separate from
the presser spring, but this entails a double adjustment in order to vary both the heavy
or extra pressure and the normal pressure, and it also involves the use of duplicate
springs and other devices.
The invention further consists in an independent take up in combination with the
special stitch forming mechanism composed of an eye pointed needle, a hook needle,
and one or more looping devices. The looping devices consist preferably of a looper
and threader, and they operate to take the loop from the eye pointed needle and insert
it under the barb of the hook needle. The independent take up is so called in contra-
distinction to a take up which is formed by the needle carrier, or is operated
synchronously therewith. The independent take up is operated by a cam and can
be given such movements as are found most desirable for tightening the stitch, or
for other purposes. Practically as the peculiar stitch, made by the eye pointed and
hook needles and the cooperating looping devices is rather difficult to tighten properly,
the independent take up is an important improvement over the needle carrier take up
heretofore employed in the combination. The best form of take up, or what is considered
the best will be shown, and in it are embodied several minor improvements consisting
principally in the special shape of certain parts of the take up cam. For example it is
found desirable for the take up to draw upon the thread during the ascent of the
needles, until the eye-pointed needle begins to push the loop through the work and
then to give up the thread during the remainder of the rise. The take up cam is
shaped to give to the take up suitable movements at the proper times. It is further
found desirable for the take up to give up the thread not so fast as it is required by the
eye pointed needle in order that the needle may be compelled to draw in the thread
which is reeved around the material to form the preceding stitch and thus further to
tighten it, unless this has already been drawn in as tight as desirable, and in that case
to draw thread through the tension. This effect of making the eye pointed needle
tighten the preceding stitch as it is pushing the loop through the work is quite important
with straw goods on account of the extensible nature of the latter, because in making
the preceding stitch the feed has stretched the goods, and it is now released from the
feed surface and can be contracted by the tightening of the stitch. In order to ensure
the throwing of a proper loop to be taken by the looper the thread is slackened by the
take up before the loop is thrown, that is when the needles reach the top of their stroke.
The Invention also consists in a variably intermittent tension, that is to say, a

page_text: tension which is not only intermittent in its action, being opened and closed at proper
times by a moving part of the sewing machine, but in which also an adjustment is
provided whereby it may be held open longer or not so long at the same stage in the
operation of the machine according to said adjustment. Heretofore it has been
customary to provide some forms of intermittent or automatic tension apparatus with
an adjustable device in order that the tension may be set to open and close at the proper
times but when once set it is not varied in order to accomplish any effect in the
operation but remains unaltered for all fabrics and all lengths of stitch, and means are
commonly provided to prevent a ready alteration. In the present invention the
variation is designed to allow more or less thread to be drawn through according to the
length of stitch. It is therefore most advantageous to connect the adjustable part
of the tension with the adjustable part of the feed mechanism, so that the adjustment
of one effects simultaneously and to the proper extent the adjustment of the other
without further care on the part of the operator.
Moreover the opening and closing of the tension is so timed relatively to the take-up
that the latter is rendered in effect a variable take up. The adjustable part of the
tension may be and preferably is, a cam movable to change the surface which acts
upon the roller to open and close the tension.
It is further found desirable to increase or diminish the degree of tension with the
length of stitch. Devices for making such changes therefore are or may be combined
with the mechanism for changing the times at which the tension is applied and released.
It is not new to combine with a tension apparatus and feed regulating mechanism
devices for varying the degree of tension in accordance with the length of stitch but
the novelty of this improvement consists in having both the degree of the tension, and
the times for applying and releasing the same, variable together.
The invention also consists in a special feed mechanism in which the feed bar is
attached to a feed rocker at the rear end, and is operated by two eccentrics, one an
invariable excentric to raise and lower the feed surface, and the other an adjustable
eccentric to impart the back and forth movements thereto. The adjustable feed
eccentric is connected with the adjustable tension cam.
A further improvement in the feed mechanism is an arrangement of mechanical
connections, such that the feed surface rises at the same place whatever the length of
stitch, the variations in the feed movement taking place at the end and not at the
beginning of the advance.
This is not of course, a new effect in feed mechanism, but it is believed to be now
first accomplished in a feed mechanism wherein an eccentric adjustable transversely to
its shaft so as increase and diminish its eccentricity, is employed to produce the back
and forth movements.
The invention also consists in a feed mechanism comprising as part of the regular
feeding and feed controlling devices, or in addition thereto, means whereby in the
running of the machine a force is generated which tends to lengthen the stitch, and
retaining devices, so adjusted or having such resistance as to withstand the said force
at a low speed, but to be overcome thereby at a higher speed and thus permit the stitch
automatically to be lengthened in passing from a low to a high speed. This increase
is desirable in sewing straw braid into hats, because in sewing around the small circles
at the centre of the crown or tip, at which it is customary to begin, it is necessary to
use short stitches, and as the circles increase in diameter longer stitches may be used
with advantage. To have it effected automatically is desirable because at this time
especially, the attention of the operator is, or should be, concentrated on the work, and
both hands are then employed in holding the work. As the running of the machine is
naturally slow in starting the tip, and is increased as the diameter of the circles
increase, the utilization of force generated by the speed of running can advantageously
be employed.
In the machine considered the best embodiment of this and the other improvements
the operative force is an effect of the inertia of the feed bar and other reciprocatory
parts, but the invention is not limited to this precise mode of producing it.
To prevent the resistance of the work in feeding from shifting the feed controlling
B

page_text: devices and thus shortening the stitch, a pawl is provided which when in engagement
prevents motion of the said devices in that direction but permits them so to move as to
lengthen the stitch.
To prevent the stitch being increased beyond a predetermined length, a stop is
provided which can be set to arrest the automatic movement. Provision is also made
for permitting the operator to lengthen or shorten the stitch by hand.
The invention further consists in a construction of feed bar, needle carrier and work
plate to facilitate the handling of the work, the work plate of small dimensions projects
beyond the main part of the machine frame, and the needle carrier and feed bar, which
as well as their operating mechanisms are arranged below the work plate, are provided
with brackets or lateral projections for carrying the needles and feed surface
respectively. The bodies of the needle carrier and feed bar, as well as that of the
machine frame, are thus off to one side, and the work can easily be passed around
under the brackets or lateral projections.
The
The feed bar and needle carrier with the operating mechanism being below the
work plate, only the presser foot and necessary guides are above the same.
presser foot is attached to the end of a horizontal arm so that the work can be bent
over it if occasion require. By these dispositions the work can very readily be turned
into the various positions required in shaping different articles or different parts of the
same article.
The invention also consists in an arrangement of the looper and threader on the
inside of the needles, so that the thread can be passed through the eye of the eye
pointed needle from the outside and when the needle is below the work plate the looper
and threader and their operating mechanism being suitably modified to adapt them to
their new position. The threader moves outward between the needles in order to lay
the thread around the blade of the hook needle below the barb. The invention also
consists in a new or improved system of adjustable guides adapted to cooperate with
the stitch forming mechanism by directing the straw braid properly thereto.
The invention lastly comprises certain new constructions, combinations and
arrangements of parts as hereinafter set forth.
The invention is or may be carried into effect as follows. The machine frame
consists of a rectangular body provided with a base in which the said body is set, and
having a hinged cover. The base is adapted to retain the oil which may drip into the
same. The body is provided at the back with rounded projections which when the
same is tipped back to oil or repair parts rest in hollowed bosses on the base so as to
serve as a sort of hinge.
The moving parts are mainly within the frame. The motions are conveyed from a
main shaft extending lengthwise of the machine. This shaft carries the needle
eccentric, the take up cam, the extra pressure cam, the clamping cam, the tension cam
and feed slide, the threader cam, the looper cam, the adjustable feed eccentric, and the
feed lifting eccentric.
The motions are conveyed to the needle carrier, the take-up, the looper, and the
threader, through rock shafts, the proper cam or eccentric acting directly or indirectly
upon a lever arm at one end of a rock shaft, which at or near the other end is
connected with the part to be operated. In other cases there is a lever, or a system of
levers through which motion is conveyed from the cam or eccentric.
In the needle mechanism the operating eccentric is connected by an eccentric strap
and a link with a block, adjustable in the arm of the rock shaft which is slotted for
that purpose.
This block is connected by a rock shaft, lever arms and links with the movable arm
which carries the presser foot, so that the movements of the presser foot produce a
corresponding change in the position of the block, and thus increase or decrease the
needle stroke. The connection is made at one point by a pin which plays in a slot, so
that the presser foot can be raised and lowered by the feed without shifting the block
or can be raised by an increase in the thickness of the work when the controller
mechanism is clamped. The movable arm (which carries the presser foot) is fixed to
a rock shaft, and a leaf spring attached to the rock shaft at its opposite end bears

page_text: upon a lug on a lever arm forming part of the controller mechanism so that the said
spring keeps the pin (last above mentioned) at the upper end of its slot except when
the presser foot is lifted after the controller mechanism is clamped. It is preferred
that, when the presser foot is raised by hand, the presser spring or the lower end of
the slot shall strike the pin and move the controller block, even when the clamp is
in action.
The clamping cam operates to clamp a tail piece on one of the levers of the controller
mechanism. At one point in the revolution, that is when the feed is descending the
pressure of the clamping jaws upon the tail piece is relieved.
The needles are attached to the bracket on the needle carrier by a self centreing
clamp. One side of the shank of the needle is flattened in order to prevent the needle
from turning and in flattening more of the metal is cut away in fine than in coarse
needles. The eye pointed needle instead of having a long groove on one side and a
short groove on the other is cut away or flattened at the eye on what is usually the
short grooved side of the needle, and the eye is then counterbored or rounded at the
edges. The hook needle has the blade under the barb cut away and rounded on one or
both sides. The edges of the barb are also rounded.
An extra pressure is applied to the presser spring in order more firmly to hold
down the presser foot as the needles are thrust upward through the work. The
tension cam opens the tension to give thread to the looper and threader in placing the
loop in the hook needle, and then allows the same to close. It again opens the
tension at the beginning of the feed advance, and maintains it open for a longer time
as the stitch is longer. The tension itself is composed of two tension discs, a stud, a
nut on the stud, and a spring confined between the nut and an internal shoulder on a
sleeve surrounding the tension stud. The nut has its ends split to produce an elastic
pressure on the stud. The lever which is actuated by the tension cam strikes the end
of the stud in opening the tension. The tension cam is movable lengthwise of the
shaft and constitutes also the feed slide. It revolves with the shaft. It is shifted by
means of a lever suitably connected therewith so as not to interfere with its rotation.
This lever is connected by a link with the sleeve of the tension apparatus so that as the
said lever is moved to shorten the stitch and to permit the tension to close sooner, the
sleeve is moved a corresponding extent to increase the degree of tension on the thread.
This tension lever also carries the pawl hereinbefore referred to. The tension cam or
feed slide is connected with the adjustable feed eccentric by a lever so that by the
sliding of the said cam or slide on the shaft, the lever is tilted and the eccentric is
moved transversely to the shaft. The back and forth movements are imparted to the
feed bar through an eccentric strap or link and a lever, the fulcrum of which lever is
adjustable by the same lever which slides the tension cam back and forth so that the
change in the eccentricity of the eccentric does not change the point at which the feed
surface rises.
The work guide and presser foot are attached to a projection of the presser arm by
the same screw. Both of them are shaped to suit the character of work. The presser
foot does not move on the presser arm after it is attached, but the work guide is
adjustable so as to bring the guiding edge nearer to or farther from the line of
stitching.
The guide for the entering braid is attached to a carrier slide. It is adjustable on
said slide by means of a rack and pinion and the carrier slide is also adjustable by
means of a lever, so that the braid guide has two adjustments, either of which can be
changed without interfering with the other. An eccentric is placed to act as a stop to
limit the lever's movement.
An adjustable stop is provided for limiting the motion towards the needle of the
braid guide on its carrier.
In certain kinds of work it is necessary during the operation to move the braid
guide a considerable distance away from the needle, in order to take in a strip
composed of several braids.
The stop having been once set enables the operator without special care to restore
the braid guide to precisely the position it occupied before moving it away.

page_text: The braid guide has a guide pin under which the braid passes. This pin can be set
nearer to or farther from the work plate according to the thickness of the entering
braid. A guide for the left edge of the entering braid is carried by the braid guide
and is adjustable thereon by means of a rack and pinion. In the feed mechanism the
pivot at the base of the feed rocker on which the latter turns is placed in front of the
pivot at the top of the rocker where the feed bar is hinged to said rocker so that as the
feed bar is advanced the rear end is carried down, and the front end of the feed
surface is made the last to leave the work.
The eccentric strap which encircles the needle eccentric is made short and the pivot
is placed above the shaft so as to cause a prolonged slow movement of the needles at
the bottom of their stroke. The eccentric strap of the adjustable feed eccentric is also
made short and the pivot is placed behind the shaft, so as to delay the commencement
of the advance of the feed surface, and cause the advance to take place more quickly.
The strap which encircles the lifting eccentric is connected by a sliding connection or
tongue and groove with the feed bar. The guides and other parts are graduated or
marked so as to aid in restoring them to the same position when they have been
altered.
The thread is led from the spool through suitable guides or eyes on the front of the
machine to the ten-ion which is also placed on the front of the machine and from the
tension through a guide tube set obliquely in a guide at the corner of the frame to the
take up and thence to the eye-pointed needle.
The looper has a hook and is further provided with a vertical wall or shoulder inside
the hook, behind which wall or shoulder, the finger of the threader moves.
A hand cam or eccentric is provided for adjusting the pressure of the presser spring.
A hand cam is also provided for lifting the presser foot, and the stud on which it
turns is made adjustable by being held in a slot by a set screw.
For sewing coarse braid, the toe of the presser foot is made broad, and that of the
work guide is made broad also. This form however is unsuitable for fine braid. For
braid having a rough edge or head, the work guide, and also the presser foot has a
rib parallel with the line of stitching, which ribs bear upon the braids at a suitable
distance from their edge. Figures 1. 2 and 3 are respectively a plan a front elevation
and a left end elevation of a machine constructed in accordance with the Invention
Figures 2 and 2 detail views of the adjustable stop for the braid guide Figure 4 a
plan view of the machine with the cover removed Figure a vertical longitudinal
section on line A* B* in elevation looking to the rear, Figure 6 a vertical cross
section on line E" H in elevation looking to the right, Figure 7 a horizontal section
or sectional plan on line K* L* Fig. 6, Figure 8 a vertical longitudinal section on
line CD in elevation looking to the rear, Figures 9. 10 and 11 cross sections on
lines F* G* 1* J and M* N* respectively, in elevation looking to the right
Figure 12 a vertical cross section on line P° Q* in elevation looking to the left
Figures 13. 14 and 1.5 detail views of the needle operating mechanism in plan in front
elevation, and in right end elevation respectively also partly in section Figures 16 17
and 18 detail views in plan in front elevation and in left end elevation respectively
(also partly in section) of the feed mechanism: Figures 19, 20, 21 and 22 detail views
of the needle carrier Figures 23, 24 and 25 views illustrating the operation of the
tension cam Figures 26-37 detail views of the work guides; Figures 38, 39. 40
and 41, enlarged views illustrating the formation of the stitch; Figures 42 and 43 an
elevation and longitudinal section respectively of the eye-pointed needle; Figure 44 a
cross-section of the same on line III (Figure 42) looking in the direction of the
arrow Figures 45 and 46 are a front and a side elevation respectively of the hook
needle, and Figure 47 a cross-section on line III looking in the direction of the arrow,
The moving devices are supported in the frame A, in the general form of a hollow
rectangle with cross webs 1 and 2. This frame rests on the base B and is provided
with a hinged cover ('.
The main shaft D is journaled in bearings in the ends of the frame A and carries
(beginning with the right hand end of the shaft) the fly wheel and pulley E, the
needle eccentric F, the take-up cam G, the extra-pressure cam H, the controller

page_text: clamping cam I, the tension cam and feed regulating slide J the threader cam K, the
looper cam L, the variable feed eccentric M, and the feed lifting eccentric N. From
these eccentrics and cams all the automatic movements are imparted. The feed
regulating slide and tension cam J, as well as certain other parts hereafter described,
are adjustable or moveable by hand, or at the will of the operator.
The needle carrier P is supported in ways at the left end of the frame A below the
curved and projecting work-plate Q, and carries (by means of a bracket 200 bolted to
the carrier at its upper end) an eye-pointed needle R, and a hook-needle S. They
may be secured by any ordinary or suitable means, the hook-needle directly in front of
and with the hook turned towards the eye-pointed needle. The long groove in the
eye-pointed needle is placed on the left or outside thereof.
As shown the shanks of the needles are flattened or cut away, on one side (sce
Figures 19-22 and Figures 42-47) and are placed at one end of the bracket 200, on
either side of a mid-feather 201 with the flat side against the same. This flat surface
not only prevents the needle from turning on its axis, but also allows the two needles
to be brought closer together. Coarse needles have the shank less cut away than fine
ones, in order that the space between the blades of the two needles may be large
enough for the insertion of the threader. The needles at their lower ends rest upon
pins 3 set in the bracket, and are held in place by the jaws 4 of spring metal, which
are fastened at their inner or right hand ends to the bracket by a screw 5 and steady
pins and are held together at their outer ends so as to bind the neodle by means of the
clamping screw 6.
The jaws have each a V-shaped notch which embraces the needle shank and centres
the needle. The self-centreing feature is not, however, the only advantage of these
jaws. Their upper part is made narrow, or has a width equal to the diameter of the
needle crank, so that the space to the right of the needle shanks is vacant, and the feed
surface can be sei as close as practicable to the line of sewing, closer it may be
observed than was possible heretofore.
A vertical reciprocation is given to the needle carrier in order to force the points
and blades of the needles through the work, which is placed on the work plate Q under
the presser-foot T. The looper V and threader W, which cooperate with the needles
to form the stitch, are placed above the presser-foot, and with the latter are carried by
the moveable presser arm X, so that they are raised and lowered with the presser-foot
according to the thickness of the work under said foot. The manner in which the
looper and threader cooperate to form the stitch will be hereinafter set forth; but
whatever this action may be, it is evident that, if the needles are to occupy the same
position relatively to the co-operating devices when the said needles are thrust through
the work, they must be raised more or less according as the said devices are raised or
lowered with the presser foot. The needle carrier Pshould therefore be given a stroke
whose upper limits is variable with the rise and fall of the presser foot. The motion is
imparted to the needle carrier P from the needle eccentric F through the rock shaft Y,
journaled at the right end in a bearing or web 2, through which it projects, and at the
left end in a bearing on the end wall of the frame A. The eccentric strap 7 is connected
by the journal pin 8 with the upper end of a link Z, which at the lower end is
connected by the journal pin 9. ball 10, and block 11, with the arm 12 of rock shaft Y.
The ends of this link are forked. The top fork fits around the needle eccentric and
its strap (the link being curved as shown in Figure 10 to avoid the main shaft); the
bottom fork spans the lever arm 12. The upper end of the link Z is further connected
by the pin 8 with the front forked end of a guide arm 13, hinged at the opposite end
at 14 to a projection on the rear wall of frame A. The journal pin 8 is fixed in the
link by set screws 15 and is free to turn in the eccentric strap 7, and in the guide
arm 13.
The needle carrier P is connected by the screw pin 16 with the upper end of link 17,
the lower end of which is connected by a screw pin 18 with the outer end of the lever
arm 19 of the rock shaft Y. At each revolution of the shaft the needle eccentric F
vibrates the rock shaft Y through the strap 7, link Z and lever arm 12, and the rock

page_text: shaft in turn gives a vertical reciprocation to the needle carrier P through the lever
arm 19 and link 17.
In order to make the stroke of the needle carrier adjustable the block 11 is set in a
slot in the lever arm 12, so that it can be moved towards and away from the rock shaft.
The said arm and slot are so curved (see Figure 10) that when the eccentric and parts
operated thereby are in position to force the needles through the work, the centre of
curvature coincides with the axis of the journal pin 8. Thus the adjustment of the
block 11 makes no change in the time at which the needles enter and leave the work
but it changes the upper limit of the needles stroke, making it higher or not so high,
according as the block is nearer to or farther from the rock shaft. It also changes the
lower limit of the stroke, although not to so great an extent.
In order that these adjustments may be effected automatically, the block 11 is
connected with the presser foot T, so as to be shifted when the latter is raised or
lowered. The connection is made through the rock shaft A¹; called the controller
shaft. A depending lever A" hung and turning on the stud 20 fixed in the frame A,
is connected by link 21 with a lever arm 22 at the right hand end of the controller
shaft A, and is also connected by the link 23 journal pin 9, and ball 10, with the
block 11. A lever arm 24 projecting forward from the controller shaft A' at the left
hand end of said shaft, is connected by the link 25 with the lug 26, depending from a
boss 27 on the inner or right hand side of the presser arm X, near the front or outer
end thereof.
A screw pin 28 tapped into the outer end of the lever arm 24 plays in a slot 29 in
the link 25. The presser arm is fixed at its rear end on a rock shaft B', journaled in
bearings of the frame A. An arm 225 fixed on the rock shaft B₁ near the right
end thereof carries a leaf spring 226, the outer end of which presses upon a lug or
short arm 227 of lever A. The pressure of this spring tends to keep the pin 28 at
the top of slot 29, its power being conveyed through the rock shaft A₁ and its
connections.
When the presser foot T is lifted the presser arm X is moved with it, and lifting the
link 25 permits the spring 226 to turn the lever A" and shift the block 11 length-
wise of the lever arm 12 so that it is nearer to the needle arm rock shaft Y. At the
same time the controller shaft A' is turned and the pin 28 is raised until it is stopped
by contact with the upper end of the slot 29. The position of this point, which is
determined by that of the presser foot thus controls the position of the block 11
relative to the shaft Y. When the presser foot descends it pushes upon the link 25
and pin 28 and moves the block 11 away from the rock shaft Y. The lever A" is of
course turned at the same time so that the lug presses down the front end of the
spring 226; but this does not increase the pressure of the spring, because it is
compensated for by the downward motion of the arm 225, which turns with the rock
shaft B and presser arın X. Preferably the parts are so proportioned that the
spring 226 is slightly more compressed with the presser foot T in a high than in a low
position.
To prevent the controller mechanism from being accidentally shifted and especially
to prevent it from being vibrated at each stitch by the tendency of the block 11 to
slide back and forth in the lever arm 12 (when the latter is inclined) under the pull
and thrust of link Z, a clamping mechanism is provided. The clamping action is made
intermittent, in order that it may hold the controller mechanism at the same time,
when the tendency of block 11 to slide might otherwise disarrange the proper adjust-
ment of the needle operating mechanism, but permit at a suitable time the free
adjustment of said block by the presser foot, the clamping action being partially or
entirely relieved at such times. The clamping mechanism is operated by means of the
cam 1, formed by a groove in the left face of a dise, which for convenience of manu-
facture is in one piece with the needle eccentric F, the disc and eccentric being at the
opposite end of the connecting sleeve 30. This sleeve is fixed firmly on the main
shaft D.
The cam I vibrates a lever C¹ whose upper end carries a roller that runs in the cam

page_text: groove, and whose lower end encircles and turns upon the needle arm rock shaft Y.
The lever C communicates movement to a horizontal lever D' pivoted at 31 to an ear
on the frame A, and terminating in a spring arm 32, whose end is acted upon by the
screw 88 tapped through the lever C near its lower end.
The lever is curved so as to pass around behind the lever A". On this lever A"
near its lower end is fastened a tail 34 or thin flexible strip in the form of a circular
arc (see Figures 10 and 15), which tail lies between the end of the stationary screw 35
tapped through the end wall of the frame A, and the clamping block 36, fastened to
the top of lever D₁ by a screw 37, on which it may turn slightly in order to press
squarely against the tail 34. When the cam I moves the lever C rearward the latter
presses upon the lever D¹ and forces the clamping block 36 against the tail 34, so as
to hold it with more or less pressure, depending upon the flexure of the spring arm 32.
When the cam I moves the lever C₁ towards the front of the machine the pressure is
relieved.
When the feed surface descends and the needles are about to enter the work the
clamping cam I leaves the controller mechanism free, and the latter can then, and
then only, he moved by the spring 226. If at this time the pin 28 is at the top of
the slot there would, of course, be no motion of the controller mechanism. At other
times the controller mechanism is clamped.
The shape which is preferably given to the cam I, and the position of the roller in
the cam groove when the needles are at the bottom of their stroke, are shown in
Figure 11.
The clamping of the controller mechanism during the rise of the feed permits the
presser foot T to rise without changing the position of block 11. As soon, however as
the clamp is off, the spring 226 tends to move the controller mechanism, but the feed has
then descended so far that only a small movement is possible before the pin 28 reaches
the top of its slot; and at high speeds the descent is completed before the spring has
moved the controller mechanism to an appreciable extent.
The presser foot T is held down upon the work by the spring E' in the form of a
flat leaf spring, the left end of which bears against the bottom of the slot 29 in the
link 25, while the right hand end is supported by the lever F fulcrumed on the front
wall of the frame A. The end of the lever projects through a hole 38 in the spring E¹
which rests upon a pin 39 fixed in the lever. At an intermediate point the lever F
rests upon an adjusting cam 40 formed by a grooved cylinder, the bottom of the
groove being eccentric or cam shaped, so that when the cylinder is turned the lever FI
and the right hand end of the spring E' are raised or lowered according to the
direction of rotation. The cam or cylinder 40 fits in the boss 42 which is slotted on
top to allow the lever to enter the groove. Outside the frame A the cylinder or cam 40
has a milled head for turning the same, and also a disk 43. A pointer 44 is fastened
on the frame A by a screw pin 45, and the disk 43 is marked (by figures 1, 2, 3, 4, as
shown) so as to indicate the position of the cam relatively to the lever F. This pin 45
also extends inside the frame A and forms a stop to limit the upward movement of
the presser spring E. This spring is held down at a suitable point between the ends
by the lever G, supported and fulcrumed upon a stud 56 fastened in a boss on the
web 2. The upper end of the lever has a roller which bears against the cam H
formed by the periphery of the same disc that has the groove in its left face to form
the cam I, while the lower end is provided with a pin 57, which is set in a conical hole
in the lever, so that it may rock on its upper end and which bears upon the spring E'.
As the cain H resolves it forces down the spring E' giving an extra pressure upon
the presser foot for a certain time. The shape of the cam surface is shown in
Figure 11. It gives the extra pressure when the needles are thrust through the work.
At other times the pressure is relieved in order that the feed surface may act against
the normal pressure only.
The tension or pressure of the spring E' can be adjusted by hand for different kinds
of work by turning the cam 40, it affecting both the normal and the extra pressure.
The presser foot can be lifted from the work by hand, by means of the lifting
cam 58, pivoted on the left end of the frame A, just under the projection 59 on the

page_text: presser arm X. The stud 275, on which the cam turns, is set in a slot in the frame
and is held in place by the nut 276, which bears upon the metal of the frame and
clamps it against the washer 277 (the latter being pressed by a shoulder on the
stud 275). The stud and lifting eam are set higher for sewing coarse work than for
fine, as it is desirable then to lift the presser-foot higher for inserting and removing
the work.
An attachment for lifting the presser foot by means of a treadle or pedal as
customary in straw sewing machines, is also provided. It consists of a lever 60
fulcrumed on the base B, with the front end under the lower end of the link 25, and
the opposite end above a hole in the base through which passes the cord 61 for
connecting it with the operating pedal. A stop 610 tapped through a lug on the
frame A limits the upward movement of the arm 24 of the controller shaft, and
through, the link 25, limits also the upward movement of the presser arm, and thus
acts as a safeguard against accidental injury to the mechanism by lifting the said
presser-arm X too high.
When the presser-foot is raised by the cam 58 or by the pedal, the presser-spring E¹
strikes the head of pin 28 and turns the controller shaft A¹ positively. When the
presser-foot is lowered the upper end of the slot 29 strikes the pin 28 and turns the
controller shaft A in the opposite direction. It is evident that if the slot 29 were
long enough the presser foot could be raised to its highest position without turning
the controller shaft A, but the arrangement shown is preferred, because it avoids
excessive bending of the spring 226, and also insures that when thicker work has been
placed under the presser foot, and the latter let down on the same, the controller
mechanism shall adjust the block 11 to the proper position for the thick work,
although the said mechanism may be clamped when the presser foot is raised and
lowered. If the controller shaft were not turned under these conditions it is evident
that when the presser foot was let down on the thick work, the block 11 would remain
in the position for thin work until the clamp was released, and the spring 226 was
allowed to shift the controller mechanism.
The looper V and threader W which cooperate with the needles RS, are supported
on the presser arm X inside or to the right of the needles. The looper V is attached
to the outer or left hand end of a short rock shaft 62 journaled in and passing
through the boss 27 on the presser arm X. The looper is vibrated by the looper
cam formed by a groove on the left face of the annular disc 63, which cam acts
through the lever H' supported and fulcrumed at the bottom on the stud 64 fixed in
the web 1, and connected at the top by link 65 with a lever arm depending from the
looper shaft 62 (see Figures 5 and 6).
The upright lever His placed behind the main shaft, and is also curved backward
in order that the joint between it and the horizontal link 65, being behind the main
shaft D and in front of the shaft B or axis upon which the presser arm X turns, may
be in such proximity to said axis that the timing of the looper is not altered to any
considerable extent by the raising and lowering of the presser foot in consequence of
the different thickness of the work under it. It is evident that if the joint were in the
line of the said axis the motion of the presser arm would interfere the least with the
timing of the looper; but the proximity shown is sufficient for practical purposes.
The looper itself (see Figures 38-41) has a hook 66 turned towards the front of
the machine, and behind the hook the upper surface is cut away at 67 leaving at 68 a
shoulder or vertical wall. As shown the looper is formed of a small rod bent in the
middle, its upper end forming a shank, by which it is secured in a head on the looper
shaft 62. The shank fits in a hole bored diametrically through the head and is
fastened therein by a set screw. The looper is moved forward as the eye-pointe!
needle R throws out the loop (the needles having reached the top of their stroke and
begun to descend.) The hook 66 then enters the loop and carries it forward past
the threader W, which assists the looper in placing the loop in the hook of needle S.
This threader W consists of a bar provided with a finger 69 at the bottom, and
pivoted at the top to a lever arm 70 (see Figure 5) of the rock shaft I. Midway of
its length it is hinged to a guide arm 71, which turns on the screw stud 72 tapped

page_text: into the presser arm, and is set at an angle to the lever arm 70. The vibration of the
threader shaft 1 to the left carries the threader downward, and in consequence of the
greater inclination of the guide arm 71 the lower end is at the same time moved
outward. This movement takes place simultaneously with the forward movement of
the looper, the finger 69 moving just behind the shoulder or wall 68 of the looper. So
soon as the looper clears it, the finger enters the loop, which is distended over the base
of the hook 66, and carries the upper member of the loop between the needles. By
the continued forward movement of the looper and outward movement of the threader,
the thread is pressed around the needle S just below the barb of the hook. On the
descent of the needles (which is taking place during these movements of the looper
and threader) the thread is caught in the hook needle S, and the loop which has been
thrown out by the eye-pointed needle, is carried by the hook-needle through the work
a short distance in front of the eye-pointed needle (see Figure 40). After the hook
needle has taken taken the thread, and before it has carried the same into the work,
the looper and threader release the thread and retire (the looper first and then the
threader) to await the rise of the needles for another stitch.
This cam is
The threader shaft I' is vibrated by means of the threader cam K.
formed by a groove on the right of disk 63, It acts upon a roller on the front end of
lever K, supported and fulcrumed on a stud 75, and at the rear end connected (sce
Figures 4, 6 and 12) by the link 76 with a lever arm 77 at the rear end of the
threader shaft 1. The stud 75 is fixed in the wall of the frame A. The joints at
the ends of link 76 are ball joints.
The joint between the rear end of the horizontal lever K¹ and the lower end of the
upright 76 is above and in close proximity to the shaft B', or axis upon which the
presser arm turns. When therefore the presser arm is raised or lowered the axis upon
which the link turns being so nearly coincident with that of the presser arm, the
different positions of that arin within the small limits of its motion do not affect to an
appreciable extent the operation or timing of the threader.
The shape of the threader cam is shown in Figure 12. The annular disc 63 is
fastened to a hub or centre 78, which is fast on the main shaft D.
Below the work plate is a take up L' consisting of a lever arm with an eye or
thread guide 79 loosely confined in a hole in the take up, said arm projecting obliquely
through the end wall of frame A from a rock shaft M which is journaled in bearings
of said frame A and is vibrated at the proper times by the take up cam G through the
arm 80, at the right end of the take up shaft M. This cam is formed by a groove in
the face of the cam disc, which fits over a hub on the connecting sleeve 30 and is
bolted to the disc of the cams H J. The arm 80 carries a roller which runs in the
cam groove. The shape of the groove is shown in Figure 10. The take up is at the
top of its movement during the first half of the descent of the needles, but then it
descends slightly in order to get out of the way of the descending needles, and remains
in the position shewn in the drawings, until the needles have finished their descent.
Simultaneously with the rise of the needles the take up descends and draws upon the
thread. When the needles have penetrated the work so far as to bring the thread on
the hook needle against the bottom of said work, the take up stops and remains
stationary until the barb of the hook needle has passed into the work and cast off the
loop, whereupon it again descends and draws the cast off loop around the eye pointed
needle, as shewn in Figure 41. By the time the eye of the needle R has reached the
work, or slightly thereafter, the take up has reached the limit of its descent. It then
immediately commences to ascend gradually with the needles, but when the needles
have almost reached the top of their stroke it finishes its descent suddenly, in order to
free the thread entirely, so that the loop may be more certainly thrown by the eye
pointed needle in the path of the looper.
The tension is of the intermittent or automatic type, and the operation or effect of
the take up on the thread is governed by its action, since if the tension be open the
take up will draw from the spool, not from the needles. The intermittence, or opening
and closing, instead of being effected at equal intervals, as was heretofore always the
case, is effected at different times for different lengths of stitch. It is thus a variable
C

page_text: intermittent tension. The tension apparatus proper and the device which is actuated
by the tension cam for opening and closing the said apparatus are shown in Figures 7
and 9.
The sleeve 81 fits in a boss on the front wall of the frame A, and is connected by a
screw 228 with the link 229 whose opposite end is jointed to the lever N1, supported
and fulcrumed on the stud 94, screwed into an ear on the rear wall of the frame A.
The screw 228 plays through a slot in the boss, which prevents the sleeve 81 from
turning. The link 229 and lever N¹ hold the sleeve 81 from endwise motion, except
when said lever is turned for the purpose of moving it and thus changing the degree
of tension exerted on the thread.
There is a friction washer 113 under the head of stud 94, which serves as a
retaining device to the lever N₁ and prevents it from moving except when sufficient
force is applied to overcome the friction.
At the rear or inner end of this sleeve 81 is a nut 82, which fits the bore of the
sleeve and is movable lengthwise thereof but is prevented from turning by the side
projections 83, which enter grooves or slots in the sleeve. The tension stud 84 is
journaled at the front in the sleeve 81 and at the back is supported in the nut 82,
which engages the screw thread on said stud. The threaded part of the nut is split so
as to exert elastic pressure in the screw thread for holding the nut in place.
The tension spring 85 in the form of a spiral compression spring is interposed
between an internal shoulder on sleeve 81 and an exterior shoulder at the rear of the
tension nut. The spring is compressed more or less by turning the stud (which for
the purpose is provided with a milled head) in one direction or the other. The tension
disks or washers 86 and 87 are placed on the stud, the inner one 86 resting against
a boss on the face of frame A, and the outer one 87 being confined by an external
shoulder on the stud. The disks or washers are drawn together by the tension spring
with more or less pressure according to the compression of said spring. This pressure
is relieved at the proper times by the lever 88, supported and fulcrumed at the bottom
on the stud 89, fixed on the web 1 of the franie, A and actuated by the cam J.
A screw 809 tapped through a projection on the left side of said lever, strikes the end
of the tension stud 84 at the proper times, and opens the tension. A torsion spring 90
(Figure 5) with one end in a hole in web 1, and the other in a hole in the hub of
lever 88, keeps the roller at the top of the latter always in contact with the operating
or tension cam J. This cam J is mounted on the main shaft D in such way that it is
rotated therewith, but is movable lengthwise of the same. As shewn (see Figure 8)
it fits loosely on the shaft, and is connected with the hub or center 78 (fast on the
shaft) by means of the pin 91 screwed into the right face of said hub at one end, and
at the other entering a hole in the tension cam. A ring 92, somewhat larger in
diameter than the end of the pin, fits snugly the hole in the cam. This ring is fixed
to the pin by an axial screw 93, tapped into the pin and passing through a slightly
larger hole in the ring, and having a shoulder or enlargement to bear against the
outside of the latter. The pin might fit directly in the hole in the cam, but the
construction shown is preferred as giving a more perfect joint.
The tension cam J is adjustable lengthwise of the shaft by means of lever N¹. The
lever has a fork which embraces and supports a ring 95 pivoted thereto by pins 905
tapped through the members of the fork at diametrically opposite points on the ring.
The ring itself fits over the reduced end of the tension cam (which end is slightly less
in diameter than the interior of said ring) and is confined but not clamped by the
nut 96. The upper member of the fork is extended beyond the pivot pin, and after
passing through a wide notch in the upper edge of the front wall of the machine
frame, terminates in a handle 97. By moving this handle right or left the tension
cam is carried along the shaft D, the slight movement of the ring 95 between the
nut 96 and the end of the cam preventing any cramping. The bottom of the notch is
provided with a series of holes for a pin 98 (see figures 2 and 4) with which to limit
when desired the movement of the lever N. When the cover C is closed it prevents
the pin being removed or changed in position.
The front wall of frame A is further provided with a series of ratchet teeth 230, and

page_text: the handle of lever N' has a pawl 231 which, when engaged with the ratchet teeth,
prevents the motion of the handle to the left, but permits it to be moved to the right.
The pawl is set in a slot in the handle and is secured by a pivot pin. A spring 282
presses it down to engage the ratchet teeth. The pawl is so arranged that the operator
in catching hold of the handle will naturally press it in and thus disengage the pawl, so
that the lever can be moved in either direction. The special object of this pawl is to
prevent the resistance of the work on the feed from shifting the lever N, as explained
at length hereafter.
The periphery of the tension cam is provided with four inclines 100, 101, 102
and 103 (see Figures 23–25) connecting concentric surfaces and extending the
length of the cam. The inclines 100 and 102 force the lever 88 outward and releases
the tension. They are parallel with the axis of the cam, so that no matter what
position the tension cam J may occupy on the shaft, the tension is opened at the same
point in its revolution. The same is true of the incline 101, which allows the tension
to close after it has been opened by the incline 100. The latter opens the tension just
after the needles commence to descend, and it is held open during the insertion of the
thread in the needle hook by the joint action of the looper V and threader W. The
object of having it open at that time is to leave the thread free to be drawn upon by
the looper and threader, and so soon as they have finished their forward or outward
movement the tension is closed.
The incline 102 comes into action as the needles leave the work, at which time the
feed commences to advance the same. The object of opening the tension at this time
is to allow the feed freely to draw as much thread as may be necessary. As con-
siderably more thread is required in long than in short stitches, the tension remains
open a time proportionate to the length of stitch and depending upon the position of
the tension cam J on the shaft D. The incline 103, which allows the tension to close
after it has been opened by incline 102, extends obliquely around the cam as shewn
in Figure 5. The farther therefore the cam J is to the right, the later in the revo-
lution does the said incline 103 reach the roller of the lever 88, and the longer is the
tension held open. The point at which the closure takes place is indicated for the
extreme right, the middle and the extreme left positions of the tension cam J by
the position of the incline 103 in Figures 23, 24 and 25 respectively. This closure
always takes place before the needles enter the work, and consequently also before the
take-up has finished drawing in the thread, so that the take-up will tighten the stitch
as much as it can, and will draw in the loop when it is released by the hook needle S.
For the shortest stitch, it takes place very soon after the needles leave the work, and
before the take-up, which has stopped after descending out of the way of the needles,
resumes its descent. For the longest stitch the tension is held open until the needles
are ready to enter the work, which, it may be observed, is when the feed has about
finished its forward movement, the tension can being set as far as possible to the
right. For intermediate lengths of stitch the tension is held open for an intermediate
length of time, the tension cam being set in an intermediate position nearer to the
right or left, as the stitch is longer or shorter than the mean.
In order to effect the adjustment in the best manner the tension cam is connected
with the device or devices for changing the feed movement. To this end the tension
cam, is utilized as a feed slide to shift the position of the variable feed eccentric M.
This eccentric has a slot 104 through which the shaft D passes freely; and it is
connected with the hub 78 by a dovetail tongue 105 parallel with said slot which slides
in corresponding ways 106 on the left face of the said hub.
The lever 107, pivoted in a radial notch 108 in the periphery of hub 78, has its left
end in a hole in the eccentric, so that the rocking of said lever will move the axis of
the eccentric towards and away from the axis of the shaft in order to diminish or
increase its eccentricity, as may be required. A ball 109, forming part of an axial
screw on the left hand end of the lever, fills the hole and allows motion to be commu-
nicated from the lever to the eccentric without cramping or lost motion. The
opposite, or right hand end of the lever 107, is provided with a ball screw 110 and
socket 111 surrounding the ball said socket being externally of cylindrical form and

page_text: fitting the inclined hole 112 in the tension cam Jor having reference to its present
function the feed slide J When said cam or slide is moved to the left, the right end
of the lever 107 is moved away from the shaft D and the eccentric M is drawn
towards the shaft so as to lessen its eccentricity and consequently lessen also the
stroke communicated by it to the feed surface When on the other hand the feed
slide J is moved to the right the eccentricity is increased and the stroke or length of
stitch is increased also.
The feed surface P¹ (Figures 3. 16. 17 and 18) is attached to a lateral projection 114
of the arm 115 of feed bar Q which latter is hinged to the upper end of feed rocker R'
(the rocker being fast at the bottom on a rock shaft 116 journaled in bearings of the
left end wall and the web 2 of frame A) The feed bar is connected with the feed
lifting eccentric N by the link 118 and the variable eccentric M. by the lever 120 and
eccentric strap 125-The feed bar and feed rocker are given long bearings or rather
the two journals are set quite a distance apart in order to resist the side strains
produced by the pressure on the feed surface in consequence of said surface being at
the end of a lateral projection and not directly over the bearings. The shaft 121 is
fast in the top of the feed rocker R₁ and the projecting ends form journals for the feed
bar The link 118 encircles the eccentric N and is connected with the arm 115 at
the front end of the same by a tongue 123 on said arm fitting and sliding in a groove
in the link.
The lever 120 is connected by the journal pin 124 with the strap 125 which
encircles the variable eccentric and by the journal pin 126 with the front end of an
arm 127 of the feed bar-The lever is recessed at 128 to receive the end of this
arm 127 and on the opposite side it is provided with a boss 129 in which the pin 126
is journaled said pin being fastened to the arm 127 by a nut. The journal pin 124 is
fastened to the lever 120 by a nut, and has its bearing between the body of the
eccentric strap 125 and a cap piece 130 bolted to the same. The lower end of the
lever is connected by a ball joint with the front end of link 131 this joint constituting
the fulcrum upon which the lever turns in giving the back and forth movement to the
feed. The other end of the link 131 is connected by a ball joint with the horizontal
arm of lever N¹. The lengths of the different arms are so proportioned that when the
feed surface is at the forward limit of its motion (the position shown in Figures 16,
17 and 18) the shifting of the variable eccentric M, and the movement of horizontal
arm of lever N¹ will tend simply to swing the lever 120 on the pin 120 as a center,
and will produce no change in the position of the feed bar. Thus the feed surface
will always rise at the same place and the changes in the feed will take place at the
further limit of its movement. The path of the feed surface is indicated in Figure 18,
the line 133 representing the path in making a long stitch, the line 134 the path
when a short stitch is made. The position of the paris when adjusted to produce a
long stitch, and when the feed bar is at the forward limit of its motion, is shown in
full lines in Figures 16, 17 and 18; and their position when adjusted to produce a
short stitch is indicated in dotted lines, the feed bar not changing its position.
The feed surface not only has a rising and falling and back and forth motion but is
also rocked on a horizontal axis, so that when the feed surface rises the heel or rear
most part first makes contact with the work. The rocking movement is caused
principally by the position of the journals of the feed bar or shaft 121, behind the
journals of the feed rocker R' or shaft 116. In consequence of this position of the
journals the rocker is inclined to the rear, and the are through which the shaft 121
moves in feeding the work is a descent, so that the rear end of the feed bar is carried
down, and the said feed bar is turned on the lifting eccentric Nas a center. The too
of the feed surface, being in front of the eccentric, is lifted as the shaft 121 is carried
down. The longer the stitch the longer the arc through which the shaft 121 descends,
and the more the feed bar is rocked on the eccentric N. It is with long stitches that
the rocking motion is most important.
The feed surface P₁ is fastened to a block S by means of the screw 135 passing
through a hole in the block, and tapped into a tongue on the bottom of the feed
surface, which tongue fits in a groove in the top of the block. The block S¹ has on

page_text: the inner or right hand face a groove, which the end of the projection 114 enters
(see Figure 8). The block is held in place by the conjoint action of the screw 137,
the spring or friction washer 138, and the adjusting device 139. The screw is tapped
into the projection 114. The adjusting device is provided with an eccentric 140
which plays in a cross slot in the block S¹ so that by turning the milled head of said
device, the block S' and the feed surface carried thereby can be adjusted vertically.
A pin 141, fixed in the projection 114, enters a semi-circular groove 142, in the
adjusting device and prevents the latter from being turned too far, by coming into
contact with the ends of the groove 142.
The Eccentrics for operating the feed bar are so adjusted that the feed surface rises
as the needles descend, and the reverse, and that the advance movement (towards the
rear of the machine) which feeds the work, takes place while the needles are below
the work. In order to give the proper timing with eccentrics, without being obliged
to give a full half of the needle stroke below the work, the eccentric straps 7 and 125
are pivoted respectively to the link Z and lever 120, as close to the eccentric as
possible so that these straps act as very short pitmen and prolong the time, during
which the parts operated by said eccentrics have a very slow movement in conse-
quence of the eccentrics being on the opposite sides of the shaft from the pivots of
their respective straps.
The prolonged slow movement takes place for the needles when the latter are at or
near the bottom of their stroke; while for the feed it takes place during the rise of
the feed surface. The advance, or at least, the effective advance of the feed does not
therefore commence as soon as it would (except for the shortness of the eccentric
strap 125) and takes place more quickly. Consequently the time during which the
needles must be out of the work is shortened and the movement which must be given
to them in this time is lessened, in consequence of the delay or prolonged slow
movement at the bottom of the needles' stroke.
The arrangement of the feed eccentric M and its strap tends to make the feed
surface advance more nearly in a straight line, by shortening the time of the advance.
The pull and thrust of the eccentric M being exerted upon the lever 120, it is
evident that this pull and thrust are conveyed not only to the feed bar Q' but also
through the link 18 to the lever N', and that the amount of pull and thrust thus
exerted upon the lever N are proportionate to the resistance applied to the upper end
of lever 120 by or through the feed bar.
When the presser foot is lifted and there is no work in the machine the resistance
thus applied (outside that due to the very slight friction of the well oiled joints) is due
to the inertia of the feed bar, which causes at each end of the stroke a shock or sudden
pressure, greater as the speed of the feed bar is greater and the reversal of motion is
more sudden.
In consequence of the shortness of the strap 125, the reversal at the end of the
feeding movement or rear end of the stroke is more sudden than at the beginning of
said movement or front end of the stroke, and therefore the greater pressure is then
applied to the lever 120, and conveyed by it and link 131 to the lever N'. This
greater pressure tends to move the lower end of the lever towards the front of the
machine, and to shift the lever N' and parts connected with it in the direction to
lengthen the stroke of the feed; and if the friction of the retaining washer 113 be not
too great, the lever N¹ and parts connected with it will be moved, and the stitch
gradually lengthened until the movement is arrested by contact of the handle 97 of
the lever N with the pin 98.
The pressure (caused by the inertia being greater as the speed is higher, the
friction of the washer 113 can be so adjusted that it resists the said pressure while
the machine is running slowly, but as the speed increases it is overcome thereby, and
the shifting of the feed controlling devices (and the tension devices connected there-
with as well) takes place. This adjustment of the friction is or may be made once for
all by using a spring washer of proper form and shape.
When the work is in the machine the resistance of the work upon the feed
surface tends to cause a movement of the lower end of lever 120 to the rear of the

page_text: machine, and move the lever N¹ and parts connected therewith in the direction to
shorten the stitch. The pawl 231 engaging the ratchet teeth 230 prevents the
motion and does not interfere with the motion in the opposite direction.
It will of course be understood that were it desirable, the washer 113 could be
made so stiff that it would resist pressures produced by the running of the machine,
while permitting lever N to be adjusted by hand.
The guides for directing the straw braid to the needles are similar to those
heretofore used in the Willcox and Gibbs Straw Hat Sewing Machine, but several
modifications have been made in said guides, in order that they may operate with the
other parts of the machine, as well as to adapt them to a wider range of work and to
improve the operation. The presser foot T and work guide T are attached to a flat
projection 145 on the left of the presser arm X, by means of the thumb screw 146,
which passes through the said projection and is tapped into a tongue 147 on the work
guide. This tongue is preferably made in two parts, held together by the screw 148,
although it could be in one piece. The tongue fits in a groove 149 in the presser
foot T which is upheld by the underlying body of the work guide. The bottom of
the projection 145 has depending side flanges 150, between which the upper part of
the presser foot is set (sec Figures 31 and 32). The thumb screw 146 passes through
a slot 151 in the projection 145, so that the work guide can be moved back and forth
across the line of stitching, being guided by the groove 149 in the presser foot. The
presser foot is prevented from moving with the work guide by means of the screw 152
tapped into the presser foot, the head of which screw enters a notch 153 in tho
under surface of the projection 145. The left end of the tongue 147 has a slot 154
through which the screw 152 passes. The movement or adjustment of the work
guide is effected by the lever V which is fulcrumed by means of the pin 155, and
through a hole in which the thumb screw 146 passes. The pin 155 is fixed in the
lever and enters an elongated hole or notch 156 (see Figure 4) in the projection 145.
By turning the lever the work guide is adjusted so as to bring the guiding edge 157
nearer to or farther from the line of stitching. It is retained in the position to which
it may be adjusted by the friction washer 158 between the head of the screw and the
adjusting lover.
The work guide is provided with a separator 159 at its front end, as usual for
holding the work or sewed braid away from the entering braid to be united to the
former. It is preferred to have the toc, or front part of the presser foot, and work
guide respectively, broad, as shewn in Figures 33, 34. and 35, the toe 160 of the
presser foot overlying the toc 161 of the work guide. This construction, however, is
practicable only for thick braid, in consequence of the depth of the braid guide W,
which should extend past the said toes. For thin braid the toe of the presser foot is
made narrow, as shown at 162. Figures 27 and 29. For narrow braid it is
preferred to provide the bottom of the presser foot with an offset or shoulder 163
which is or may be used as a guiding edge on the left of the line of stitching. The
braid at the edge of the work (numbered 199 in Figures 1, 2 and 3) to which the
entering braid 202 is to be stitched, has its edge against the work guide, while
the preceding braid or braids lie in the recess to the left of the shoulder 163.
For coarse braid having a rough edge or "head," as it is called, the presser foot
and work guide are provided on the bottom at the left edge of the same end with ribs
164 and 165 respectively. The head of the braid lying to the right of these ribs is
protected from the presser of the feed surface, which acts upon the part under the
ribs. For all kinds of work the presser foot has a needle throat 166 and is
recessed at 167 to allow the looper and threader to operate as close to the work as
possible.
To insure accuracy in adjustment the presser foot is, or may be provided with
graduations, as shewn in Figures 27 and 29, and the work guide have a mark or line
to serve as a pointer, as shewn in Figures 26 and 27.
The braid guide W₁ (see Figures 1, 2 and 3) is attached to a carrier slide Zby
means of the screw 168, which passes through a round hole in the base of post 169,
and a slot in the braid guide, and is tapped into the carrier slide 2. The latter has

page_text: a tongue 170 which fits in a groove in the back of the braid guide. The base of the
post 169 has a tongue 171 (see Figure 3) which fits in a groove in the face of the
braid guide. A friction washer 172 between the head of screw 168 and the base of
the post produces by its pressure sufficient friction to retain the braid guide in
position, and yet permit it to be adjusted on the carrier slide Z when desired. The
adjustment is effected by the pinion 173 engaging a rack 373 on the lower edge of
the braid guide. This pinion is on a short hollow shaft provided with a milled head
and turning freely upon a journal pin 174 (see Figure 7) screwed into the carrier
slide. The latter is set in a groove in the frame A, and is held therein by the
screw 175 passing through a slot 176 in the carrier slide, and tapped into the machine
frame. A friction washer 177 under the head of the screw prevents accidental
movement of the carrier slide but allows it to be adjusted by applying sufficient
force.
An adjustable stop 233 is provided for enabling the braid guide when adjustable
to be moved away from the needles and then without special care on the operator's
part to be returned to the precise position it occupied before.
This stop, whose shape is shown in Figures 2 and 2 is set in a slot 234 in the
braid guide and is clamped in any desired position by the screw 235 and washer 236.
On the face of the carrier slide there is a projection 237 which extends into the
groove in the back of the braid guide and lies in the path of the stop 233. The latter
makes contact with this projection and arrests the motion of the braid guide-In use
the stop 233 is set in such position in the slot 234 that when the stop is in contact
with the projection 237 the braid guide is in proper relations to the needles to guide
the entering braid to the same. When the braid guide has been moved away from
the needles it is only necessary to retain it until the stop 233 again comes in contact
with the projection 237 in order that it may occupy the same position as before.
For the purpose of adjusting the carrier slide 2 a boss 178 (Figure 7) on the back
thereof projects through a slot in the frame into a groove 179 in the face of
lever This lever is suspended from a journal screw 180 tapped into the machine
frame and is provided at the bottom with a handle 181 screwed into the lever and
playing in a slot in the machine frame-By moving this handle right or left the
carrier slide Z and the braid guide with it are adjusted-By turning the pinion 173
the braid guide is adjusted independently of the carrier.
The advantage of the double adjustment is that in sewing a hat it is desirable in
certain parts to lap the braid more than in others The position of the braid guidę
determines this lap because the farther the braid guide is to the left the farther the
left edge of the braid (the width thereof being the same) will be outside the line of
stitching If then the braid guide he adjusted by the pinion 173 so as to give what
may be called the normal lap it can be adjusted by the lever C to give an extra lap
and then returned to the normal position without changing the normal adjustment
at all.
a screw
A hand operated eccentric D" fastened on the face of the frame A by
having a friction washer under its head to retain the eccentric in position is placed
so as to form an adjustable stop for the handle 181 of lever (" By setting this
eccentric in proper position the operator will always have a sure means of giving the
proper amount of extra lap so long as the work is the same Thus when one hat has
been sewed it will only be necessary in sewing the next one to move the lever (
until its motion is arrested by the eccentric in order to give the proper amount of
extra lap By turning the eccentric as far as possible to the right all movement of the
lever C may be prevented.
To assist in adjusting the braid guide for different kinds of work the said guide
is graduated and a pointer 183 is fastened on the machine frame opposite the
graduations.
The post 169 has two holes in the top and a clamping piece 184 held down by a
set screw 185 for confining the end of the guide pin E in either hole. The end of
the pin is cut away on top in order to give a flat surface for the clamping piece to act
against. The braid guide is provided with two holes for the reception of the guide

page_text: pin--For very thick braid it is placed in the outer hole for braid which is not so
thick in the inner one. The braid guide also carries a guide F" for the outer or
left edge of the entering braid It has a pin which fits in a hole in a braid guide and
the underside of this pin is toothed so as to be engaged by a pinion at the inner
end of the small shaft 186 which can be turned by a milled head on the outer end
thereof. The pinion is formed integral with the shaft and is of the same diameter
therewith so that it can be inserted from the front through the hole which receives the
shaft. The braid guide is also provided with a finger H for holding down the right
edge of the entering braid.
The thread is drawn from an outside spool of any ordinary or suitable description
and is passed through a hole in the handle 187 of cover C and through the two thread
guides 188 to the tension. The thread guides 188 are formed by eyes in the heads of
pins set in the machine frame-From the tension the thread is led to the take up
through the thread guide 189 formed by a short tube set obliquely in the piece which
forms a guide way for the needle carrier at the corner of the machine frame This
thread guide and the take up are so arranged that the thread can readily be drawn
through the tension. The cover C when closed is engaged by a spring latch 190 to
hold it shut. The latch is provided with a knot 191 which projects through the front
wall of the machine frame A and is pressed upon in order to release the latch.
The ways of the needle carrier are protected as much as possible by a slide 192
A box or case 193 hinged to the machine frame encloses the feed surface and its
supporting block also the needles and the take up and protects them from contact with
the work By turning the box or case aside into the position shewn in Figures 1. 2
and 3 access is given to the enclosed parts. The base B is to be screwed to the work
table. The frame A, has rounded projections 194 at the back which projections rest
in the hollow bosses 195 at the back of the base and form a sort of hinge on which the
machine can be tilted back-The base has a raised border 196 into which the bottom
edge of the frame A sets and the openings through the base are all formed in bosses
so that the base will catch and retain the drippings of the lubricating oil.
When the frame A is on the base teats 197 enter holes in the frame, washers 198 of
leather or other soft material being placed in recesses in the frame so as to be
interposed between it and the base.
The eye pointed needle R (Figures 42 43 and 44) consists as usual of a shank a
blade b point c and eye d On the side shown in Figure 42 where the short groove
ordinarily would be, the blade is cut away or ground off at and for a short distance
above and below the eye d leaving a flat surface 300. This cutting or grinding is
best done by the periphery of a cylindrical tool of comparatively large diameter whose
axis is at right angles to that of the needle The object is to have practically a plane
or flat surface where the eye terminates on that side of the needle and to have this
surface merge gradually into the regular cylindrical surface of the blade The edge
of the eye is rounded or counter bored as shown at 301 so that the thread will run
smoothly over it-Just below the eye there is a transverse notch or recess 302 which
is cut well in towards the axis of the needle, nearer than the flat surface at which the
eye terminates.
On the side of the needle not shewn in Figure 42 is the usual long groove which
however is not made of uniform depth as customary but is shallower in proximity to
the needle point as shown in Figure 43, than it is nearer the shank so as at that point
to stiffen or strengthen the blade and compensate for the metal removed to form the
notch 302.
The notch 302 permits the looper to work closer to the axis of the needle than it
otherwise could Were it not for this notch the surface 300 would or
might extend
below the eye, precisely as it does extend above it but as shown the notch cuts into
the surface 300 leaving only a small space between the notch and the eye.
The shank a is flattened on one side for enabling it to be secured in the needle
carrier more accurately and firmly, but this flattening is no part of the Invention.
The transverse notch might be omitted and the needle instead provided with a long
groove of uniform depth.

page_text: The hook needle (Figures 45. 46 and 47) consists of the shank e bladef point g and
barb It is made from a single piece of steel wire turned and sharpened as well
understood by makers of sewing machine needles.
The hook is formed by cutting a slot inward towards the axis of the needle and
5 upward or outward (that is toward the point) preferably by means of a rotary cutter
or tool in the form of a disk or equivalent form and having the cutting edge of suitable
thickness or thinness to cut a slot of the desired size. The surface at the end of the
slot is made convex as indicated in Figure 45 by the dotted line 306 the curve being
struck from a centre in the axis of the needle with a radius of half its diameter. This can
0 easily be done by turning the needle or the tool during the cutting or grinding operation.
The blade under the barb is then bevelled on one or both sides as shown at 307.
The bevel on the side past which the looper moves when the needle is placed in the
machine is the important one for enabling the thread in sewing to be brought further
in under the point of the barb.
"
The bevels are preferably formed each by the periphery of a rotary cutter known as
an end mill" applied as indicated in Figure 47 by dotted lines at 308. At the same
time that the bevel is cut by the periphery of the tool the thin edge left at the side of
the barb in cutting the slot is removed by the end of the same. When the needle is
polished the edges which remain become sufficiently rounded not to cut or wear
the thread.
The bevels enable the bristles of the rotary brush which is used for polishing to
enter the space under the barb notwithstanding the high speed of the brush and thus
to act efficiently upon the edges of the barb.
The notch 309 is preferably cut by the periphery of a rotary tool whose axis is
transverse to that of the needle. It is cut well in towards the axis of the needle just
below the barb and at one side of the same.
The operation and manner of using the machine are as follows
The thread from the spool is passed through the thread guides 188 to and between
the discs 86 and 87 over the tension stud 84 then through the tubular guide 189
through the eye 79 of the take up L from right to left and finally through the eye of
the needle R from left to right. A work guide T¹ and presser foot T adapted to the
work in hand having been secured on the projection 145 of the presser arm X by
the screw 146 common to both, the work guide T¹ is adjusted by the lever V₁ to
bring the guiding edge 157 to the desired proximity to the line of stitching in order
that the latter may be at the proper distance from the edge of the overlying braid or
plait 199 (Figures 1. 2 and 3).
The braid guide W is adjusted by the pinion 173 to give the normal amount of lap
to the entering braid 202 which underlies the sewed braid 199 and the eccentric D
is so adjusted that it will arrest the lever C when a suitable amount of extra lap has
been given by shifting the carrier slide Z'. The stop 233 on the braid guide is also
adjusted into contact with the projection 237 on the carrier slide and clamped. The
guide pin E is placed in the proper hole in the braid guide W and post 169 and the
guide for the left edge of the braid is used or not as desired likewise the finger H".
The feed mechanism is also adjusted by means of lever N¹ so as to give the proper
length of stitch and the degree of tension is adjusted by turning the tension stud 84.
A feed surface adapted to the work is also placed on the feed bar.
It is desirable in sewing around small circles as in making the tip or crown of a hat,
to use a short stitch and then to increase the length as the sewing becomes straighter.
In each class of work there will be a certain limit beyond which it is not desirable to
lengthen the stitch and the pin 98 can be set to prevent the operator from accidentally
exceeding this limit. At the same time that the feed is regulated and by the same
movement the tension cam J is set in the proper position for opening and closing the
tension and the degree of tension exerted by the tension apparatus is also varied by
shifting the sleeve 81.
The pressure of spring E' for holding down the presser foot is also adjusted by
turning the cam 40 and the position of the cam 58 for lifting the presser foot is
adjusted by altering the stud 275 higher or lower in its slot.

page_text: The presser foot T being lifted by the hand cam 58 the work is introduced under
the same with the edges of the braid against the edges of the appropriate guides as
shown in Figures 1. 2 and 3. The presser foot is dropped and the machine started by
turning the main shaft D.
Assuming the parts to be in the position represented in the principal views the
needles rise and the feed surface descends. As it descends the presser spring E
forces down the presser foot T until it clamps the work beneath it against the work
plate Q. At the same time the controller mechanism is shifted and the block 11 in
the slotted arm 12 is moved to the proper position from which it had been withdrawn
hy lifting the presser foot. The lowest point of the controller clamping cam I is now
opposite the roller and consequently does not oppose any resistance which the normal
pressure of the presser spring E' could not readily overcome.
As the needles begin or are about to puncture the work the extra pressure is applied
to the presser spring by the extra pressure cam H in order that it may resist the
upward thrust of the needles R. S. The controller clamping cam I also operates to
clamp the tail 34 with greater force so as to prevent the block 11 from shifting.
Just before the needles R. S. reach the top of their stroke (the limit of which depends
upon the height of the presser foot T above the work plate Q. which height determines
through the controller mechanism the position of the block 11) the take up L' which
has descended to the bottom of its stroke and has also risen part way during the rise
of the needles, by a quick movement finishes its upward stroke and releases the thread,
so that when the needles descend the loop is thrown out in front of the looper V (see
figure 38) The latter now advances and carries the loop past the hook needle S while
at the same time the threader Wis thrown outward at the bottom and carries the
upper member of the loop between the needles (see Figure 39) thus partly wrapping
the thread around the blade of the needle S just below the barb of the hook. The
looper and the threader draw the thread necessary through the tension which is opened
by the tension cam J. at the beginning, and closed at the end of the movements. The
needles continuing their descent the hook needle S catches the loop and carries it
down through the work, the looper V at the same time retiring and giving up the
thread to it, and the threader W also withdrawing so soon as the looper has moved
back. As the needles descend below the work the feed surface P¹ which while the
needles were in the work had been returned into position for a new feed and had been
raised slightly above the level of the work plate by the eccentric N commences to
advance the work. The feed surface in order to act lifts the work slightly, said work
being held down by the normal pressure of the presser spring E' which was relieved
of the extra pressure produced by the cam H just after the needles reached the top of
their stroke. This lifting of the presser foot T does not effect the controller
mechanism because the slot 29 in link 25 permits it to be lifted the necessary distance
independently of said mechanism.
At the same time that the feed commences to advance the work, or a very short
time thereafter, the tension is opened by the incline 102 of the tension cam J and the
take up L' also descends a short distance in order to be out of the way of the needles.
The tension cam remains open a greater or less time according to the length of
stitch In short stitches it is closed when the needles reach the bottom of their stroke
(in the case of the shortest stitches it may be a little before) In long stitches it
remains open until the feed has finished advancing the work, the thread being drawn
from the spool through the open tension as required.
The take up which has remained stationary after descending out of the way of the
needles descends further as soon as the needles rise. If the tension be closed it draws
in the thread as it is slackened by the needles and keeps it stretched between them and
the work. When the tension is held open because of the length of stitch the take up
moves idly until the closure is effected when for the remainder of its stroke it draws
in the slack. Its effective movement is thus variable in consequence of the variation
in the time of closing the tension. While the tension is open the feed draws upon
the thread faster than it is given up by the needles and thus keeps it stretched between
them and the work The feed always, even in the shortest stitches, carries the work

page_text: so far that the loop which has been carried down by the hook needle S overlies the
point of the eye pointed needle R. (see fig. 40) so that the latter on rising enters the
loop. When the needles enter the work the take up L' pauses and then as the loop is
pushed off the barb of the hook needle S by a quick movement finishes its down stroke
and draws the loop around the eye pointed needles (see fig. 41).
As the needles reach the work the feed goes out of action and the extra pressure is
applied to the presser spring E' in order to resist the thrust of the needles. The
pressure for clamping the controller mechanism is relieved just before the feed goes
out of action but except to a slight extent at slow speed no resetting of said
mechanism occurs unless the thickness of the work has been altered, or the presser foot
has been lifted for some reason During the running of the machine the operator can
lift the presser foot T by the pedal connected with the lever 60 without stopping the
machine.
After the needles have reached the top of their stroke they descend, the take up
finishes its upward movement the looper V and threader W come into action, the
tension is opened to give thread to the looper and threader and the operations proceed
as before.
In beginning a hat at the tip the lever N¹ is generally set to make the shortest
stitches and the machine is run slowly. As the circles increase the operator increases
the speed of the machine and when a certain seed is reached the said lever N' is
gradually moved toward the right end of the chine and with it the shell 81. is moved
outward to diminish the degree of tension, the tension cam J is moved to the right to
increase the time during which the tension apparatus is held open during the feeding
movement and the eccentric M is moved away from the shaft 1 to lengthen the stroke
of the feed bar. If the length of stitch is changing too rapidly the operato
slackens the speed and if it becomes necessary to shorten the stitch at any time the
handle 97 is grasped the pawl 231 is lifted from engagement with the ratchet teeth 230
and the lever N is moved the proper distance towards the left end of the machine.
It is obvious that modifications can be made in the details of construction and that
parts of the invention may be used without the others without in either case departing
from the spirit of the invention.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I claim is
First The combination with the needle 'carrier and presser foot of a sewing
machine, of needle operating mechanism having an adjustable part and controller
mechanism connecting said adjustable part with the presser foot substantially as
described.
Second-The combination with the needle carrier, the presser foot and the looper
mechanism moveable with said presser foot of needle operating mechanism having an
adjustable part and controller imechanism connecting said adjustable part with the
presser foot substantially as described.
Third-The combination with the needle carrier the eye pointed needle, the hook
needle, the presser foot, and the looper and the threader both moveable with said foot
of the needle operating mechanisin having an adjustable part and the controller
mechanism connecting said adjustable part with said presser foot substantially as
described.
Fourth-The combination with the needle carrier the presser foot and the needle
operating mechanism having an adjustable part of the controller mechanism connecting
the adjustable part with said presser-foot, and provided with a loose joint which
permits the presser foot to rise, or to rise and fall to a certain extent, without
necessarily shifting said adjustable part at that time, substantially as described.
Fifth The combination with the needle carrier, of the needle operating mechanism
having an adjustable part-such as a block movable in a slot that can be slid back and
forth, or set at any point between certain limits, in order to increase or decrease the
stroke gradually, substantially as described.
Sixth-The combination with the presser foot, needle carrier, and needle operating

page_text: mechanisin having an adjustable part, of controller mechanism having a loose joint,
and a spring tending to keep the parts of said joint in contact substantially as
described.
Seventh-The combination with the needle operating mechanism having an
adjustable part, of a clamp for retaining the said part in the position to which it may
be adjusted, substantially as described.
Eighth The combination with the needle operating mechanism having an
adjustable part, of a lever, a link connecting the lever with said part, and a clamp for
locking the lever in position and thus retaining in place the said adjustable part,
substantially as described.
Ninth The combination with the needle operating mechanism having an adjustable
part, of an automatic intermitting clamp for retaining said part in position,
substantially as described.
Tenth The combination with the presser-foot, the needle operating mechanism
having an adjustable part, and the controller mechanism of the controller clamping
cam and connections for preventing the accidental shifting of said controller
mechanism, substantially as described.
Eleventh The combination with the presser, foot, the needle carrier on the
opposite side of the work plate from the presser foot, the needle operating mechanism
and the presser spring, of automatic mechanism, such as the extra pressure cam and
lever operated thereby for compressing said spring during the rise of said needle
carrier, substantially as described.
Twelfth The combination of the presser foot the presser spring connected at one
end with said presser foot, an adjustable hand operated device at the opposite end of
said presser spring, a moveable device bearing upon the presser spring at an
intermediate point, and a cam for acting upon said intermediate device to give an
extra pressure to the presser spring substantially as described.
Thirteenth The combination with the needle carrier below the work plate, the
presser foot above the same, the needle operating mechanism having an adjustable
part, and the controller mechanism connecting the presser foot with said part, of the
presser spring and extra pressure mechanism for applying the extra pressure during
the rise of the needle carrier substantially as described.
Fourteenth The combination with the eye-pointed needle, the hook needle, the
needle operating mechanism and the looper mechanism, of the independent take-up,
substantially as described.
:-
Fifteenth The combination with the eye-pointed needle, the hook needle, the
needle operating mechanism, and the looper-mechanism, of the take up, and
mechanism for operting the same to draw in the thread during the first part of the
ascent of the needles, and to cease drawing in when the eye-pointed needle pushes the
loop through the work, substantially as described.
Sixteenth-The combination with the eye-pointed needle, the hook needle, the
needle operating mechanism, and the looper mechanism, of the take up, and mechanism
for operating the same to draw in the thread during the first part of the ascent of the
needles, and to give it out when the eye-pointed needle pushes the loop through the
work, substantially as described.
:-
Seventeenth The combination with the eye-pointed needle, the hook needle, the
needle operating mechanism, the looper mechanism, the feed and the tension, of the
take up, and mechanism for operating the same to give up thread when the eye-
pointed needle pushes the loop through the work, but more slowly than it is drawn in
by the eye-pointed needle, so that the latter operates to tighten the stitch after the feed
gone out of action, substantially as described.
has
Eighteenth: The combination with the eye-pointed needle, the hook-needle the needle
operating mechanism, and the looper mechanisin, of the take up and the mechanism for
operating the same to maintain the thread stretched during the latter part of the needles"
ascent, and to release the thread by a quick movement when they are near the top of
their stroke, in order the more certainly to throw a loop, substantially as described.
Nineteenth-The variably intermittent tension, comprising a tension spring and

page_text: means for acting upon the thread, in combination with the mechanism for opening
and closing the tension, said mechanism including a readily adjustable part such as the
sliding tension cam described for varying the period during which the tension is held
open, substantially as set forth.
Twentieth The combination with the feed mechanism, having an adjustable part
for varying the length of stitch, of a variably intermittent tension having the adjustable
part thereof connected with the adjustable part of said feed mechanism, so that they
are regulated simultaneously, substantially as described.
Twenty first: The combination with the tension spring and means for acting upon
the thread, of the mechanism for releasing the tension intermittently, said mechanism
comprising a part such as the sliding tension cam described adjustable to alter the
period during which the tension is released, and a handle for adjusting the said part
substantially as set forth.
Twenty second-The combination with the tension spring, and means for acting
upon the thread of the mechanism for releasing the tension intermittently, said
mechanism comprising a readily adjustable part in form of a slide substantially as
described.
Twenty third-The combination with the eye-pointed needle the hook needle, the
looper mechanism, and the feed of the variably intermittent tension arranged to release
the thread at the commencement of the advance movement of the feed surface and
leave it free for a longer or shorter time, according to the position of the adjustable
part of said tension substantially as described.
Twenty fourth-The combination with the take up, of a variably intermittent
tension arranged to leave the thread free during the operation of the take up in
drawing in thread, for a longer or shorter time, depending on the position of the
adjustable part of said tension whereby the effective operation of the take up is variable
substantially as described.
Twenty fifth-The combination with the needle carrier, the needle operating
mechanism, the feed, and the take up of the variably intermittent tenson arranged to
release the thread, at the beginning of the advance movement of the feed, and leave it
free for a longer or shorter time depending on the adjustment, and the mechanism for
operating the take up to draw in thread during the latter part of the said advance
movement, and to finish drawing in after the feed has gone out of action and the
tension has resumed its hold upon the thread substantially as described.
Twenty sixth-The combination of the eye-pointed needle the hook-needle, the
needle operating mechanism the looper mechanism the feed, the independent take up,
and the variably intermittent tension arranged and timed to operate substantially as
described.
Twenty seventh-The combination of the tension discs or washers, the screw
threaded tension stud the tension spring, the nut and the enveloping sleeve substantially
as described.
Twenty eighth-In an intermittent tension the combination with the tension
spring, tension discs and nut of the tension stud having a screw thread engaging said
nut and projecting through the same, so that it may be struck by the reciprocatory
device for operating the tension, substantially as described.
Twenty ninth The combination with the variably intermittent tension apparatus
comprising the tension spring, the means for acting upon the thread, and the
mechanism for releasing the tension intermittently and for varying the times during
which the tension is released of devices connected with said mechanism for varying
simultaneously the degree of tension, substantially as described.
:
Thirtieth The combination with the feed and the variably intermittent tension
having their adjustable parts connected together so as to be shifted simultaneously, of
connected devices for varying at the same time the degree of tension also, substantially
as described.
:-
Thirty first The tension cam, the variable feed eccentric, and the shell of the
tension apparatus, all connected together in combination with the tension spring
washers and stud of said tension apparatus, the lever for conveying motion to the stud

page_text: from said cam the feed bar and the devices for conveying motion to said feed bar
from said eccentric, substantially as described.
Thirty second-The feed mechanism comprising in combination a feed bar pro-
vided with a feed surface, a feed rocker to the upper part of which the rear end of
said feed bar is hinged, an eccentric for raising and lowering the feed surface, an
adjustable eccentric for imparting a back and forth movement to the feed surface, and
connections between the eccentrics and said feed bar, substantially as described.
Thirty third The combination with the feed mechanism having an adjustable
eccentric for giving the back and forth movements, of a variably intermittent tension
having an adjustable operating cam connected with said adjustable eccentric,
substantially as described.
Thirty fourth-The combination with the main shaft, the feed eccentric adjustable
transversely on said shaft, the feed slide adjustable longitudinally on the same, the
lever for communicating the motion of the feed slide to the eccentric and the disc in
which the said lever is fulcrumed, substantially as described.
Thirty fifth-The combination with the feed bar and the feed eccentric adjustable
transversely to the shaft, of the mechanical connections between the eccentric and
feed bar, said connections comprising an adjustable part such for example as a lever
with a movable fulcrum-connected with and regulated by the same device which shifts
said eccentric, whereby the feed surface is caused to rise in the same place whatever
the length of stitch, substantially as described.
Thirty sixth-A feed mechanism comprising a moveable part which generates in
running a force tending to lengthen the stitch, and retaining or friction devices
whose resistance with-stands said force at a low speed but is overcome thereby at a
higher speed whereby a gradual increase in the length of stitch may be effected
automatically by properly regulating the speed of the machine, substantially as
described.
Thirty seventh-The combination with a feed mechanism having adjustable devices
controlling the length of stitch, and a moveable part which tends to shift said devices
in running, of a pawl for permitting when in action, the said devices to be moved in
one direction only substantially as described.
Thirty eighth-The combination with the feed bar or lever connected therewith,
and the eccentric and short strap for communicating motion to said feed bar through
said lever, of the adjusting devices for controlling the stroke of said feed bar connected
with said lever, so that the resistance of said feed bar tends to shift said adjusting
devices substantially as described.
Thirty ninth-The combination of the adjustable feed eccentric, the feed slide
connected therewith, the lever for moving said slide, the pawl in the handle of said
lever, and the friction washer for pressing on said lever, of the feed bar, the lever
connected therewith, the short strap connecting said last named lever with the said
eccentric, and the link connecting it with the lever for moving the feed slide
substantially as described.
Fortieth-The combination with a feed mechanism having adjustable devices for
controlling the length of stroke, and a moveable part, which in running, tends to shift
said devices in the direction to increase the stroke of friction devices whose resistance
withstands this tendency at a low speed but is overcome thereby at a higher speed,
and a pawl for preventing movement of the aforesaid adjustable devices in the direction
to shorten the stroke substantially as described.
Forty first: The combination with a feed mechanism having adjustable devices
for controlling the length of stroke and friction devices for restraining the movement
of said devices, of a pin which can be set in one or another of a series of holes for
preventing a predetermined limit from being overpassed, substantially as described.
Forty second-In a sewing machine, having the work plate projecting beyond the
main part of the machine frame and in combination with said work-plate, the needle
carrier provided at its upper end with a bracket which projects outward under the
work-plate and has a needle clamp at the outer end thereof substantially as described.
Forty third-In a sewing machine having a projecting work plate, and in

page_text: combination with said work plate, the needle carrier having the needle clamp at the
outer end of a bracket, which is fastened at the upper end of said carrier and
projects outwardly under the work plate, and the feed bar having the feed surface
carried by a projection which extends laterally under said work-plate, substantially as
described.
Forty fourth In a sewing machine having a projecting work-plate, and in
combination with said work-plate, the needle carrier having a bracket under the work-
plate, and the needle clamp at the outer end of the bracket, the feed bar having a
lateral projection under the work plate, and the feed surface at the outer end of said
projection, and the horizontal presser arm having a lateral projection at the end
thereof, and the presser foot attached to said projection substantially as described.
Forty fifth The combination with the eye-pointed needle and the hook needle, of
the looper and threader arranged inside of the path of said needles, said threader being
moveable outwardly at the bottom for carrying the thread between the needles
substantially as described.
Forty sixth-The combination with the threader having a finger at its lower end,
of the rock shaft, guide arm and link for moving said threader, substantially as
described.
Forty seventh The combination with the looper and threader, of mechanism for
operating them in the order named, so that the threader is thrown outward behind the
hook of the looper as the latter advances, and is returned in front of the same when it
is withdrawn, substantially as described.
Forty eighth The combination with the support of the presser foot, of the work
guide and presser foot removably secured thereto by a screw common to both, said
guide being adjustable with reference to the presser-foot, substantially as described.
Forty ninth-The combination with the support for the presser foot, of the work
guide, the presser foot upheld by said guide, the screw tapped into said guide and
passing through the support, the means such as a lever, for adjusting the position of
the guide, and the means, such as a projection fitting in a recess for preventing the
movement of the presser foot, substantially as described.
Fiftieth-The combination with the presser foot of the laterally adjustable work
guide having on the bottom a rib parallel with the line of stitching for bearing upon
the work at one side of the said line, substantially as described.
Fifty first:The combination with the presser foot, having on the bottom a rib
parallel with the line of stitching on one side of the needle hole of a laterally
adjustable work guide having a similar rib on the opposite side of said needle hole,
substantially as described.
Fifty second-The combination with the presser foot, having a wide front part or
toe, of a work guide provided with a separator and having the front part or toe which
is to one side of said separator and underlies the toc of the presser foot, of corre-
sponding width, substantially as described.
Fifty third The combination with the eye-pointed needle, the hook needle and
the looper and threader, of the presser foot provided with the needle throat, and
recessed on the upper surface, substantially as described.
:-
Fifty fourth The looper provided with a hook and also with a vertical wall inside
of said hook, the looper being recessed behind the said wall, in combination with the
threader having a finger arranged to travel outward through said recess, and in
combination also with the eye-pointed needle and the hook needle, substantially as
described.
Fifty fifth-In a sewing machine. the presser arm hinged to the machine frame at
the rear thereof and provided at the front end with a lateral projection forming a
support to the presser foot, substantially as described.
Fifty sixth The presser arm hinged to the machine frame at the rear thereof, in
combination with the looper, the threader and their operating rock shafts journaled in
said arm, the loupe shaft being transverse to the length of said presser arm and the
threadder shaft, parallel with the same, substantially as described.
Fifty seventh-The combination with the looper mechanism, of the needle carrier,

page_text: the eye-pointed needle, the hook needle, and the self-centering clamps for attaching the
needles to the carrier substantially as described.
Fifty eighth-The combination with the looper mechanism, of the hook needle,
having a flattened shank, the eye-pointed necille also having a flattened shank,
the needle carrier and the clamps for attaching the needles thereto, substantially as
described.
Fifty ninth-The combination with the hook needle and the eye-pointed needle, of
the needle carrier having a mid feather to fit between the needles, and clamps with
jaws connected by a screw so that both needles are clamped or unclamped at the same
time, substantially as described.
Sixtieth-The combination with the needle carrier, and a needle, of a notched jaw
for clamping said needle, said jaw having its upper part equal in width to the diameter
of the needle shank, and being placed in front of or behind the needle, and a feed
mechanism, arranged with its feed surface alongside of and in close proximity to the
path of said needles, substantially as described.
Sixty first: The combination with the presser foot and presser arm, a hand cam for
lifting the same, and a vertically adjustable stud, on which said cam turns,
substantially as described.
Sixty second-The combination with the presser arm and presser foot, and the
looping mechanism carried thereby, of the cam for lifting the presser foot, and the
vertically adjustable stud on which said cam turns, substantially as described.
Sixty third-The combination with the hook needle, the eye-pointed needle, the
needle operating mechanism, the feed and the looper mechanism, of the presser arin,
the presser foot and work guide removably attached to said arm by a screw common
to both, and the guide for the entering braid, substantially as described.
Sixty fourth-The combination with the adjustable guide for the entering braid,
of an adjustable stop for limiting the motion of said guide substantially as described.
Sixty fifth-The combination with the braid guide and its carrier, of a stop set in
a slot on the braid guide and held in place by a screw, and a projection on the carrier,
arranged in the path of said stop, substantially as described.
Sixty sixth-The guide for the entering braid, in combination with the carrier
slide on which said guide is adjustable, said carrier-slide being itself adjustable on the
machine frame, substantially as described.
:
Sixty seventh The combination with the adjustable carrier slide and the braid
guide, adjustable on said slide, of the lever for shifting the slide, and the adjustable
stop for limiting the movement of said lever, substantially as described.
Sixty eighth-The combination with the guide pin, of the braid guide and the
post, each having holes, either of which may receive said pin, substantially as
described.
Sixty ninth-The combination with the braid guide, of a guide for the outer or
left edge of the entering braid, having a toothed stem fitting in said braid guide, and
a shaft provided with a pinion for adjusting the same, substantially as described.
Seventieth-The combination with the machine frame and the projecting work
plate, of the needle carrier having the needle clamp at the outer end of a bracket, the
feed har having the feed surface at the outer end of a lateral projection, the presser
arm having the presser foot at the outer end of a lateral projection, the work guide
adjustably secured to the projection of the presser arm, the braid guide attached
adjustably to the carrier slide to the right of said work plate, and the carrier slide
adjustably secured on the front of the machine frame, substantially as described,
whereby the parts of the machine, necessarily grouped about the work plate are mainly
placed or supported to the right of and below the same, as set forth.
Seventy first-The combination with the needles, the needle carrier and needle
operating mechanism, the feed and the looper mechanism, of the intermittent tension,
having an operating cam for releasing the thread when the looper mechanism comes
into action, and also for releasing it a second time when the advance movement of the
feed takes place, said cam being adjustable to leave the thread free a longer or a shorter
period during the advance movement of the feed, substantially as described.

page_text: Seventy second-The feed bar and feed rocker, the former having its pivot behind
that of the latter, so that the rear end of the feed bar is carried down when the feed
surface advances, in combination with the mechanism for giving a rising and falling
and back and forth movement to said feed surface, substantially as described.
Seventy third-The combination with the feed-bar and the needle carrier, of the
eccentrics and connections for operating the needle carrier and feed bar, said connec-
tions including eccentric straps, pivoted close to the eccentrics so as to constitute short
links and said eccentrics and straps being arranged as described, so that the needle
eccentric is on the opposite side of the shaft, from the pivot of the eccentric strap, when
the needle carrier is at the bottom of its stroke, and the feeding eccentric is in a
corresponding position when the feed bar is nearest the front of the machine,
substantially as set forth.
Seventy fourth-The combination with the horizontal feed bar and the upright
feed rocker of the feed lifting eccentric, the strap encircling the same and connected
with the feed bar, the feed eccentric for giving back and forth movements, the strap
encircling the same connected with the feed bar, and having its pivot behind the shaft,
substantially as described.
Seventy fifth-The combination with the feed bar, the feed rocker, the feed lifting
eccentric, its strap, the adjustable feed eccentric, its strap, the upright lever pivoted to
and supported by the feed bar and pivoted also to the last named strap, the adjusting
lever connected by a link with the lower end of said upright lever, the feed slide
connected with the adjusting lever and the connection between the feed slide and
the adjustable feed eccentric for changing the position of the same, substantially as
described.
Seventy sixth-The combination of the needle eccentric, its strap, the guide arm,
the link, the adjustable block connected by a journal pin with the lower end of said
link, the rock shaft having an arm on which said block is adjustable, and the needle
carrier connected with and operated by a lever arm at the opposite end of the rock
shaft, substantially as described.
Seventy seventh-The herein described improved sewing machine, comprising in
combination the machine frame, the main shaft, the needle eccentric, the take-up cam,
the tension cam and feed slide, the looper cam, the threader cam, the adjustable feed
eccentric, the feed lifting eccentric, all on said shaft, the needles and needle carrier,
the mechanism for communicating motion from the needle eccentric to the needle
carrier, the same having a part adjustable to vary the stroke of said carrier, the
presser arm, the controller mechanism, connecting said presser arm with said
adjustable part, the looper, the threader, the connections between the same and their
respective cams, the feed bar, feed rocker, connections between the feed bar and feed
eccentrics, the connections between the adjustable feed eccentric and the feed slide,
the lever for adjusting said tension eam and feed slide, the tension mechanism
operated by said tension cam, and the take up, said cams and eccentrics being
arranged or timed to operate in the manner set forth.
Seventy eighth-In a straw sewing machine, the combination with the work-plate,
eye-pointed needle, hook-needle, needle operating mechanism having an adjustable
part, the controller mechanism and the looper mechanism of the removable presser
foot and the removable and adjustable work guide, and the presser arm supporting
said presser foot and work guide, said controller mechanism connecting the presser
arm with the adjustable part of the needle operating mechanism substantially as
described.
Seventy ninth-The combination with the presser foot and presser arm, the needle
operating mechanism having a part adjustable to change the needle stroke, and the
controller mechanism connecting the presser foot with said adjustable part and having
a loose joint, of the spring connected with the presser arm so as to move with it and
bearing at the opposite end against the controller mechanism and tending to maintain
the parts of the loose joint in contact, substantially as described.
Eightieth The combination with the main-shaft, the presser arm hinged at the
rear to the machine frame, and the looper and the threader carried by said arm, of the

page_text: cam, upright lever, horizontal link and rock shaft transverse to the presser arm, for
operating said threader, the joint between the lever and link for operating the looper
being behind the main shaft and in front of the axis, upon which the presser arm
turns, and the joint between the lever and link for operating the threader being
arranged above and in close proximity to said axis, substantially as described, so that
the timing of the looper and threader is kept constant, notwithstanding the rising and
lowering of the presser foot, as set forth.
Eighty first: The combination with the main shaft, the feed eccentric adjustable
transversely on said shaft, and the feed slide moveable lengthwise of said shaft, of
the lever having at the ends balls fitting within holes in said eccentric and slide
respectively and the disc within which the said lever is fulcrumed, substantially as
described.
Eighty second-The combination with the tension apparatus and a lever for
opening the same intermittently, of the adjustable tension cam having in the periphery
a variable cam surface against which the end of said lever bears, the adjustment of
said cam, changing the bearing point of said lever on the cam and thereby regulating
the time or times during which the tension is held open, substantially as described.
Eighty third The machine frame provided with a hinged cover and supporting
the stitch forming mechanism and the work feeding and guiding mechanism, in
combination with a base provided with a raised border so as to retain oil and having at
the back hollowed bosses in which rounded projections on the machine frame fit,
substantially as described.
Eighty fourth-An eye-pointed sewing machine needle, having the blade at and
for a short distance above and below the eye on one side of said blade cut away,
leaving a flat surface where the eye terminates, and being provided with a long
groove on the opposite side of said blade, the edge where the eye joins said flat surface
being rounded, substantially as described.
Eighty fifth-An eye-pointed sewing-machine needle, provided with a transverse
notch below the eye on one side of the blade, and with a long groove shallower in
proximity to the eye than elsewhere, on the opposite side of said blade, substantially
às described.
Eighty sixth: An eye-pointed sewing-machine needle having on one side of the
blade a flat surface where the eye terminates and a transverse notch below the eye,
and on the opposite side of the blade a long groove, substantially as described.
Eighty seventh-A hook needle for sewing-machines having the blade under the
barb at one or both sides cut away at a bevel, substantially as described.
Eighty eighth-A hook needle for sewing-machines having a convex surface at
the upper end of the slot which lies between the barb and the blade, substantially as
described.
Eighty ninth A hook needle for sewing-machines, having the edges of the barb
rounded and a bevel, formed in the blade under the barb at one or both sides, and
provided with a convex surface at the end of the slot, which lies between the barb and
the blade, substantially as described.
Ninetieth A hook needle for sewing-machines provided with a transverse notch
in the blade below and at one side of the barb, and having the blade on that side cut
away at a bevel under the barb above said notch, substantially as described.
Ninety first: A hook needle for sewing-machines, having a beveled surface, under
the barb on one or both sides of the blade, and a convex surface at the end of the slot
between the barb and the blade, and having also a transverse notch in the blade below
and at one side of the barb, the edges of the barb and the bevelled surface or surfaces
being rounded to avoid fraying the thread, substantially as described.
J. HENRY JOHNSON.