IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OP UMBRELLAS AND PARASOLS
Year: 1863

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to James Engleburtt Vanner, of Coleman Street, in' the
City of London, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE
OP UMBRELLAS AND PARASOLS."
Sealed the 26th January 1864, and dated the 1st August 1863.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said James Engleburtt Vanner
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
1st August 1863.
I, JAMES ENGLEBURTT VANNER, of Coleman Street, in the City of London,
do hereby declare the nature of the Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE
MANUFACTURE OF UMBRELLAS AND PARASOLS," to be as follows:-
This Invention has for its object improvements in the manufacture of
umbrellas and parasols, and is applicable when using fabrics composed more
or less of alpaca or other wool or mohair.
Heretofore in the weaving of such descriptions of fabrics it has been usual
to produce near each edge what is called a "leisure," woven with the same tio
as the body of the fabric, but generally richer than the body of the fabric, and
such leisure has been produced in order that a hem might be made thereof,
and thereby obtain the requisite strength and finish to the edge of the cover of
an umbrella or parasol made from such a fabric. It has also been usual to
introduco silk warp in the body of a fabric, (beyond where a leisure has been
produced,) in order to obtain thereby ornamental borders or stripes in the body
of such descriptions of umbrella and parasol fabrics. Now, according to my

page_text: Invention, I introduce into the edge of such a description of umbrella or
parasol fabric, where the leisure has heretofore been produced, silk warps, in
order thereby on the one hand to get such additional strength, and on the
other such a character of finish that the making of an ordinary leisure is
dispensed with, and the use of a hem rendered unnecessary either to obtain
the requisite strength or finish at the edge of the covering of an umbrella or
parasol. In some cases where silk warps are not used for these purposes
at the part where the leisure has heretofore been produced additional or
different harness is employed to cause the edges of such a fabric to be of a
different tie to that which is employed in the production of the body of the
fabric, by which and by additional richness of the weavings at the edges such
strength and finish are obtained at the edges of fabrics as to admit of the
making of an ordinary leisure as well as the hemming at the edge being
dispensed with when making up umbrella and parasol covers without prejudice
to the strength and finish of the edges of the covers of umbrellas and parasols
made of such farics.
It is preferred in all cases to produce tobine or invisible borders as here-
tofore in the body of each fabric, whether silk be employed as above described.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said James Engleburtt Vanner in the Great Seal Patent Office
on the 1st February 1864.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS, SHALL COME, I, JAMES
ENGLEBURTT VANNER, of Coleman Street, in the City of London, send,
greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the First day of August, in the year of our Lord One,
thousand eight hundred and sixty-three, in the twenty-seventh year of Her,
reign, did, for Herself, Her, heirs and successors, give and grant unto nic, the
said James Engleburtt Vanner, Her special licence that I, the said James,
Engleburtt. Vanner, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as
I, the said James Engleburtt Vanner, my executors, administrators, and assigns,
should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all,
times thereafter, during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might
make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain
and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "Im-
PROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF UMBRELLAS AND PARASOLS," upon the

page_text: condition (amongst others) that I, the said James Engleburtt Vanner, my
executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their;
or one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the
nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be per-
formed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within
six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters
Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I; the said James Engleburtt Vanner, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to
be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement thereof, that is to say :-
This Invention has for its object improvements in the manufacture of
umbrellas and parasols, and is applicable when using fabrics composed more
or less of alpaca or other wool or mohair.
Heretofore in the weaving of such descriptions of fabrics it has been usual'
to produce near each edge what is called a "leisure," woven with the same tie-
as the body of the fabric, but generally richer than the body of the fabric, and.
such leisure has been produced in order that a hem might be made thereof,.
and thereby obtain the requisite strength and finish to the edge of the cover of:
an umbrella or parasol made from such a fabric. It has also been usual to.
introduce silk warp in the body of a fabric (beyond where a leisure has been.
produced) in order to obtain thereby ornamental borders; or stripes in the
body of such descriptions of umbrella and parasol fabrics. Now, according to
my Invention, I introduce into the edge of such a description of umbrella or
parasol fabric, where the leisure has heretofore been produced, silk warps, in
order thereby on the one hand to get such additional strength, and on the
other such a character of finish that the making of an ordinary leisure is
dispensed with, and the use of a hem rendered unnecessary either to obtain
the requisite strength or finish at the edge of the covering of an umbrella or-
parasol. In some cases where silk warps are not used for these purposes at
the part where the leisure has heretofore been produced additional or different
harness is employed to cause the edges of such a fabric to be of a different tio
to that which is employed in the production of the body of the fabric, by which
and by additional richness of the weavings at the edges such strength and
finish are obtained at the edges of fabrics as to admit of the making of an
ordinary leisure as well as the hemming at the edge being dispensed with
when making up umbrella and parasol covers without prejudice to the
strength and finish of the edges of the covers of umbrellas and parasols made
of such fabrics.

page_text: It is preferred in all cases to produce tobine or invisible borders as here-
tofore in the body of each fabric, whether silk be employed as above described
or not.
I now proceed more fully to describe the manner in which my Invention is
to be performed.
In order to procure the requisite finish, appearance, and strength in order
that the production of an ordinary leisure may be dispensed with, I use silk
warp in the selvage or that part of the fabric which would be occupied by the
leisure of which the hem has heretofore been made. The quantity of silk
warp must be determined by the quality of the fabric, but it is in all cases to
be sufficient to make that part of the fabric finished enough to dispense with
the hem, whilst at the same time it is to be without prejudice to the article.
prefer to employ a different tie-from that employed in the body of the fabric,
which I accomplish by the use of harness leishes or cords, capable of more or
less separate or independent action from the leaves of heddles or plain harness
which works the main body of the fabric. I produce on the selvage or that
part which would be occupied by the hem a tie more or less differing from the
main body of the fabric, by which I get a finish of appearance, and am enabled
to employ enough warp to give strength so that the hem may be dispensed
with. The warp worked by the independent harness cords or leishes may be
of any material found suitable, although I prefer silk. I prefer that the
substance of warp in the selvage should be about 3 to 1 of that in the main
body of the fabric.
In witness whereof, I, the said James Engleburtt Vanner, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, this Thirtieth day of January, in the year of
Au Loud And thousand sight hundred and sixty four
JAS. E. VANNER. (L.S.)