IMPROVEMENTS IN BOOTS AND SHOES, AND IN THE METHOD OF MANUFACTURING THE SAME
Year: 1877

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Morgan-Brown, of the Firm of Brandon and
Morgan-Brown, Engineers and Patent Agents, of 38, Southampton Buildings,
London, and 1, Rue Laffitte, Paris, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN
BOOTS AND SHOES, AND IN THE METHOD OF MANUFACTURING THE SAME."
A communication from abroad by Lyman Reed Blake, of Boston, Massachusetts,
United States of America.
Sealed the 12th June 1877, and dated the 4th January 1877.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Morgan-Brown
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 4th January 1877.
WILLIAM MORGAN-BROWN, of the Firm of Brandon and Morgan-Brown,
Engineers and Patent Agents, of 38, Southampton Buildings, London, and 1 Rue
Laffitte, Paris. "IMPROVEMENTS IN BOOTS AND SHOES, AND IN THE METHOD OF
MANUFACTURING THE SAME. "
This Invention consists in improvements in boots and shoes, and in the method of
manufacturing the same.
In the manufacture of boots and shoes in which the outer sole is attached to a
welt, the welt is always stitched to the inner sole and upper before attaching the
outer sole, and the outer sole is then stitched to the welt.
In one form of this Invention the welt studded with tacks or metallic fastenings
is first sewed to the outer sole, and the upper and inner sole are then attached to
the welt and outer sole by the series of metallic fastenings in the welt.
One part of this Invention therefore consists in a boot or shoe in which the outer
edge of the welt and the outer sole are sewed together, and in which the welt inside
the line of stitching uniting the welt and outer sole is connected with the upper
and inner sole by a line of metallic fastenings.
Also in a fibrous or cloth welt set with tacks as an article of manufacture.
Also in the described improved method of manufacturing welted boots and shoes
consisting in stitching to the outer sole or welt studded or set with metallic
fastenings, and then applying such sole to the lasted shoe, the metallic fastenings
held in the welt alone entering the upper and inner sole, where they are clenched,

page_text: The welt may form an integral portion of the sole, and to that end the Invention
also consists in the use of a lip formed by channelling into the edge of the sole or
from near its edge toward the centre of the sole, and this lip, so cut and subsequently
lifted up, is studded or set with tacks or metal fastenings, and is then re-attached to
the outer sole, preferably by a series of stitches, but it may be attached in any
other suitable way.
This Invention also consists in an inner sole composed of two thicknesses of
leather or equivalent material used for inner soles, with an interposed piece of metal
to give rigidity to the sole, afford a clinching surface for the points of nails or tacks
driven through the under layer of the inner sole, and also to prevent the passage
of moisture to the upper portion of the inner sole against which the foot rests.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said William Morgan-Brown in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 15th
June 1877.
WILLIAM MORGAN-BROWN, of the Firm of Brandon and Morgan-Brown,
Engineers and Patent Agents, of 38, Southampton Buildings, London, and 1, Rue
Laffitte, Paris. "IMPROVEMENTS IN BOOTS AND SHOES, AND IN THE METHOD OF
MANUFACTURING THE SAME." A communication from abroad by Lyman Reed
Blake, of Boston, Massachusetts, United States of America.
In the manufacture of boots and shoes in which the outer sole is attached to a
welt, the welt is always stitched to the inner sole and upper before attaching the
outer sole, and the outer sole is then stitched to the welt.
In one form of this Invention the welt studded with tacks or metallic fastenings
is first sewed to the outer sole, and the upper and inner sole are then attached to
the welt and outer sole. by the series of metallic fastenings in the welt.
One part of this Invention therefore consists in a boot or shoe in which the outer
edge of the welt and the outer sole are sewed together, and in which the welt inside
the line of stitching uniting the welt and outer sole is connected with the upper and
inner sole by a line of metallic fastenings.
Also in a fibrous or cloth welt set with tacks as an article of manufacture..
Also in the described improved method of manufacturing welted boots and shoes
consisting in stitching to the outer sole a welt studded or set with metallic fasten-
ings, and then applying such sole to the lasted shoe, the metallic fastenings held in
the welt alone entering the upper and inner sole where they are clinched.
The welt may form an integral portion of the sole, and to that end the Invention
also consists in the use of a lip formed by channelling into the edge of the sole or
from near its edge toward the centre of the sole, and this lip so cut and subse-
quently lifted up is studded or set with tacks or metal. fastenings, and is then
re-attached to the outer sole, preferably by a series of stitches, but it may be
attached in any other suitable way.
.
This Invention also consists in an inner sole composed of two thicknesses of leather
or equivalent material used for inner soles with an interposed piece of metal to give
rigidity to the sole, afford a clinching surface for the points of nails or tacks driven
through the under layer of the inner sole, and also to prevent the passage of
moisture to the upper portion of the inner sole against which the foot rests.
Figure 1 represents in perspective one form of shoe made in accordance with this
Invention.
Figure 2 shows a shoe with the sole but partially applied.
Figure 3 represents a portion of a fibrous welt set or studded with tacks or
metallic fastenings.
Figure 4 represents one form of the Invention wherein the welt is shown as
formed from the sole by cutting and raising a portion of the sole.

page_text: I
:
Figure 5 shows the welt so formed after being studded with tacks and re-attached
to the sole.
Figure 6 shows the construction of the inner sole.
Figure 7, a section showing the outer sole, upper and inner sole; and Figure 8,
a piece of the inner sole, the upper and lower portions being stitched together.
The upper a may be of any usual form or material common in boots or shoes.
The welt b is preferably for light weight shoes made of a fibrous strip with or without
a cord, and of the color of the upper or black. This welt may be made of leather
cut from a hide as a long strip by cutting the hide helically, or it may be a cloth
or leather strip of suitable length and width. In this strip are set or studded a
series of tacks or metallic fastenings c of any usual construction that will clinch
when obstructed by a suitable plate or an iron last or an iron-plated last. The
welt b, studded with tacks or fastenings, is sewed or stitched to the outer sole d by
a line of stitching e, Figure 2. The upper is lasted about a last, and is attached in
the usual manner to an inner sole of suitable material. The lasted shoe is placed in
position with reference to the outer sole, and its attached welt studded with tacks,
and the sole is then attached by driving the tacks into the upper and inner sole by
a suitable hammer or instrument applied to the outer surface of the outer sole or in
any other proper way to cause the tacks held in place by the welt on the outer sole
to enter the upper and inner sole.
It is obvious that the welt might be nailed or otherwise secured to the outer sole,
but such means would be inferior to stitches.
In Figure 4 the sole is cut at or near its edge to form a lip or welt b, which is
then set or studded with tacks cor suitable metallic fastenings adapted to clinch as
herein-before described. After the lip is set with tacks it is preferably sewed down
with a series of stitches e, a suitable channel being made in the face of the sole to
receive the stitches. Then the tacks so held in the lip are driven into the upper
and inner sole, attaching the outer sole to the inner sole and upper.
The inner sole (see Figures 6 and 7) is composed of a piece of leather or
equivalent split back to a point, preferably beyond the shank, thereby forming upper
and lower portions 1, 2, between which is placed a layer of sheet metal f. After
the interposition of the metal in the inner sole the two portions of the inner sole
are brought together and pasted or cemented or stitched, thereby forming a stiffer
but more elastic inner sole than when leather alone is used. Any usual paste
or cement used in connection with leather may be used for this purpose, or the
edges 4, 5, may be stitched together on the line g¹.
In Figure 7, d represents the outer sole; b, the welt sewed to the outer sole, and
preferably set with tacks; a, the portion of the upper between the outer and
inner soles; 2, the under portion of the inner sole; f, the metal; and 1, the upper
portion of the inner sole. Tacks driven through the folded over portion of the upper
and through the under portion of the inner sole will melt the metal f, will be
broken off or clinched thereon, and will not extend through the upper portion 1 of
the inner sole to interfere with the foot or the smoothness of the inner sole. This
inner sole is specially advantageous for use in ladies' gaiters, making them more
healthful, because the inner sole prevents the passage of moisture through the thin
outer sole to the foot. It is easier for walking than a light thin sole, for it is more
elastic.
It is evident that an inner sole might be made by pasting or uniting a piece of
eather with the metal above and below it, and one of these sheets might be leather
board. This sole possesses many advantages for a shoe of this class, and also for
boots and shoes of other construction.
The heads of the tacks are concealed between the welt and outer sole. In this
hoe any usual form of inner sole may be employed if desired.
Having now described and particularly set forth the nature of the said Invention,
nd the manner of carrying the same into effect, I would have it understood that
what I claim is,―
First. A boot or shoe composed of an outer sole, a welt secured to or forming

page_text: part of the outer sole, and set or studded with tacks or metallic fastenings, and an
upper and inner sole, the tacks supported by the welt being adapted to enter the
upper and inner sole, and unite the welt and outer sole thereto, the heads of the
tacks being concealed, substantially as described.
.
Second. As an improved article of manufacture a fibrous welt set or studded
with tacks or metallic fastenings, substantially as and for the purpose described.
Third. In the manufacture of boots and shoes, the method herein described of
uniting the upper and inner sole to the outer sole, consisting in stitching the welt
to the outer sole and nailing the upper and inner sole to the welt. by a series of
tacks or nails sustained by the welt; substantially as described.
Fourth. As an improved article of manufacture, a sole in which a lip is formed
from the substance of the sole, and studded with tacks, and, which is then refastened
to the sole outside the row of tacks, substantially as described.
Fifth. As an improved article of manufacture an inner sole composed of an upper
and an under layer of leather, and an interposed layer of metal, substantially as
described.
Sixth. In a boot or shoe, an outer sole, a welt, an upper and an inner sole pro-
vided with a layer of metal and a series of tacks to unite them together, the tacks
being covered by the welt and being clinched only into the under layer of the inner
sole, substantially as described.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Morgan-Brown, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Twelfth day of June, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and seventy-seven.
WILLIAM MORGAN-BROWN. (L.S.)