Improvements in the Manufacture of Stamped Velvet and similar Materials.
Year: 1889

page_text: ate of Application, 13th May, 1889
Complete Specification Left, 29th July, 1889-Accepted, 31st Aug.. 1859
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Stamped Velvet and similar
Materials.
I, CARL HOLLENDER, of 23, Jungfernweg, Crefeld, Rhenish Prussia, in the Empire
of Germany, Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be us
follows:
This invention relates to the manufacture of a new fabric resembling in. appearance
I and character what is known as 'stamped velvet," but possessing a more elegant
appearance, superior wearing qualities, and being moreover softer and more agreeable
to the touch.
According to the method hitherto usually employed in the manufacture of stamped
velvet, velveteen and plush, the material in its dressed or shaved state is passed
between a pair of rolls whereof one is engraved with the pattern to be produced and
is heated by means of a gas-jet applied internally. The prominent portions of the
surface of the rolls press down and Hatten the pile; these parts usually corresponding
with the ground, and the pattern being thus left in relief. When new, the flattened
portions of the surface forming the ground have a shiny appearance and form too
great a contrast to the remaining portions of the surface, where the pile remains in its
natural state, and absorbs, instead of reflecting, the light. After the fabric has been
subjected to wear, the flattened portions of the pile have a tendency to rise irregularly
and to impart a shabby appearance to the material. Pile fabrics stamped in the
manner described have the appearance and harshness of flock paper, and the pattern
produced upon the face thereof is visible also upon the back. By employing a hard
brush and exposing the material to the action of vapour, the flattened portions of the
pile may be raised and the design nearly if not entirely obliterated'.
According to my improved method of manufacture, the velvet or other pile fabric
to be ornamented is treated in its rough or unshaved state, the shaving or finishing
process being conducted after the stamping of the pattern. The stamping is accom-
plished.in.the usual manner with the aid of rolls one of which is engraved with the
pattern by preference in relief instead of sunk. The raised portions of the roll corre
sponding with the pattern present a roughened or granulated surface and consequently
do not produce smooth-faced impressions upon the material. The portions of the
surface which have been crushed by contact with the prominent parts of the troll
are then wetted with a composition which has the effect of matting the fibres
together and giving the parts so treated the appearance of felt. I have found a
composition of gum tragacanth and gelatine well adapted for the purpose described.
The material is then passed through a machine wherein it is subjected to the
action of low pressure steam for vapour which traverses the material from back to
front; the fabric being at the same time subjected to the operation of wire
brushes. This treatment has the effect of removing from the back of the fabric
all trace of the pattern produced upon the front; whilst the pile previously
depressed is raised to approximately its original height..
The pile forming the ground may then be dressed down to about the level of
the crushed and subsequently-raised portions of the pile corresponding with the
pattern; and, although, the finished surface of the fabric is practically level, the
lesign remains clear and distinct, whilst the surface is uniformly soft to
he touch.
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2000

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Stamped Velvet and similar
Materials.
I, CARL HOLLENDER, of 23, Jungfernweg, Crefeld, Rhenish Prussia, in the Empire
of Germany, Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in
what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement :-
This invention relates to the manufacture of a new fabric resembling in appear-
ance and character what is known as 'stamped velvet,' but possessing a more
elegant-appearance, superior wearing qualities, and being moreover softer and more
agreeable to the touch.
According to the method hitherto usually employed in the manufacture of
stamped velvet, velveteen and plush, the material in its dressed or shaved state is
passed between a pair of rolls whereof one is engraved with the pattern to be
produced and is heated by means of a gas-jet applied internally. The prominent
portions of the surface of the rolls press down and flatten the pile; these parts usually
corresponding with the ground, and the pattern being thus left in relief. When new,
the flattened portions of the surface forming the ground have a shiny appearance and
form too great a contrast to the remaining portions of the surface, where the pile
remains in its natural state, and absorbs, instead of reflecting, the light. After the
fabric has been subjected to wear, the flattened portions of the pile have a tendency to
rise irregularly and to impart a shabby appearance to the material.
Pile fabrics
stamped in the manner described have the appearance and harshness of flock paper,
and the pattern produced upon the face thereof is visible also upon the back. By
employing a hard brush and exposing the material to the action of vapour, the
flattened portions of the pile may be raised and the design nearly if not entirely
obliterated.
According to my improved method of manufacture, the velvet or other pile fabric
to be ornamented is treated in its rough or unshaved state, the shaving or finishing
process being conducted after the stamping of the pattern. The stamping is accom-
plished in the usual manner with the aid of rolls, one of which is engraved with the
pattern by preference in relief instead of sunk. The raised portions of the roll corre-
sponding with the pattern present a roughened or granulated surface and consequently
do not produce smooth-faced impressions upon the material. The portions of the
surface which have been crushed by contact with the prominent parts of the roll are
then wetted with a composition which has the effect of matting the fibres together and
giving the parts so treated the appearance of felt. I have found a composition of
gum-tragacanth and gelatine well adapted for the purposo described. This treatment
is not, however, essential; inasmuch as a similar result may be produced by subjecting
the entire fabric, whilst in its original or unshaved state, to the action of vapour, and
then passing it between the rolls as before described. The material is then passed
through a machine wherein it is subjected to the action of low-pressure steam
or vapour which traverses the material from back to front; the fabric being at the
same time subjected to the operation of wire brushes. This treatment has the effect
of removing from the back of the fabric all trace of the pattern produced upon the
front; whilst the pile previously depressed is raised to approximately its original
height. The pile forming the ground may then be dressed down to about the level of
the crushed and subsequently-raised portions of the pile corresponding with the
pattern; and, although the finished surface of the fabric is practically level, the design
remains clear and distinct, whilst the surface is uniformly soft to the touch.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of this invention and
in what manner the same is to be performed, I claim :-
1. The improved manufacture of stamped pile fabric, substantially as herein
doseribad

page_text: 2. The improved process for effecting the ornamentation of velvet or other pile
fabric, substantially as herein described; the same consisting in impressing the pile
surface, whilst in the rough or unshaved state, with the pattern (or ground, if
preferred), then raising the depressed portion of the pile, and ultimately dressing
down the remaining or unstamped portion to about the level of that proviously
depressed and subsequently raised.
Dated this 18th day of Tul- 1000
G. G. M. HARDINGHAM,
191, Fleet Street, London, E.C., Agent for the Applicant.