IMPROVEMENTS IN MANUFACTURING THE ORNAMENTAL PARTS OF LACE, AND PRODUCING ORNAMENTAL OR EMBROIDERED LACE
Year: 1835

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, HENRY
WILLIAM NUNN, of Newport, Isle of Wight, Lace Manufacturer, send
greeting.
WHEREAS His present most Excellent Majesty King William the Fourth,
by His Letters Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date
at Westminster, the Third day of April, in the fifth year of His reign, did,
for Himself, His heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the said Henry
William Nunn, His especial licence, full power, sole privilege and authority,
that I, the said Henry. William Nunn, my exors, adñiors, and assigns, or such
others as I, the said Henry William Nunn, my exors, adññiors, or assigns,
should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all
times during the term of years therein expressed, should and lawfully might
make, use, exercise, and vend, within England, Wales, and the Town of
Berwick-upon-Tweed, my Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN MANUFACTURING THE
ORNAMENTAL PARTS OF LACE, AND PRODUCING ORNAMENTAL OR EMBROIDERED
LACE;" in which said Letters Patent is contained a proviso that I, the said
Henry William Nunn, shall cause a particular description of the nature of my
said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be
inrolled in His said Majesty's High Court of Chancery within six calendar
months next and immediately after the date of the said in part recited Letters
Patent, as in and by the same, reference being thereunto had, will more fully
and at large appear.

page_text: Henry William Nunn, do nereby, declare the nature of my said invention, and
the manner in which the same is to be performed, are fully described and
ascertained in and by the following description thereof, reference being had
to the Drawings hereunto annexed, and-to-the-figures-and-letters marked.
thereon, that is to say:-
My Invention consists,―
First, in producing an ornamental part of lace, that is to say, a woven
cloth work of the entire width of the fabric, by interlaying weft threads between
the two systems of threads used in a bobbin net machine.
Secondly, the manufacture of a compound fabric consisting of alternate
rows or parts of lace net, and of woven clothwork running across, or from
selvage to selvage of the piece.
Thirdly, the manufacture of an improved imitation of Valenciennes lace,
having the ornamental parts produced simultaneously with the lace net
made by bobbin net machinery, in place of having the ornamental parts
applied by the needle after the groundwork of net has been produced by such
machinery.
**
1.
Fourthly, an improvement in producing an ornamental fast-purled, or, as
they are sometimes called, self-purled bobbin net lace, with a vandyked edge.
Fifthly, improvements in machinery for producing narrow weavings, similar
to or for the purpose of those which constitute the ornamental part of that
description of blond and Buckinghamshire lace called "neige," and which is
also applicable as the edgings or ornamental parts of lace.
..
Sixthly, the producing finings in bobbin net lace by inlaying additional
threads (intersecting or crossing each other) in various forms or directions, as
berein-after described.
i
Having thus stated the nature of my Invention, I will proceed to describe
the manner of performing the same, first remarking that the various descrip:
tions of machinery for making bobbin net lace are so well known that it will
not be necessary to enter into a description of their construction, further than
to show the best means I am acquainted with for carrying my Invention into
effect. Figure 1 is a front view, in outline) of so much of an ordinary traverse
warp machine (which is the description of machinery I prefer for effecting my
Invention), with the apparatus (shewn in colour) for producing the ornamental
clothwork, which, with the description hereafter given; will clearly point out
the construction and relative position of such apparatus, and the means
of producing the clothwork across the machine, or from selvage to selvage of
the fabric or fabrics of lace. a is a pulley, having a groove of half an inch
°

page_text: square in its circumference (as shewn by the dotted lines), which pulley has
affixed to it the pinion c, and work on their axle e, which axle is fixed or
the framing of the machine. d is a cog wheel, having twice the number of
teeth of the pinion c, which cog wheel is connected to an extra treadle e by a
rod working on an axle at g. ob is a strong silken band, about the size of
an ordinary swan's quill, which after being lapped twice round the pulley a,
has its ends fastened to the square ferrule which slides freely on the square
rod, and has a guidek, through the eye of, which the interlaying or weft
thread from the bobbin m. passes. n are pulleys for facilitating the move-
ments of the band b. o is a spring, one end of which is fixed to the framing,
and the other to the treadle e, which spring has sufficient power, when the
cog d has made half a revolution from 9 to p, to complete the revolution, and
return the treadle e to the position shewn in the Drawing. u, U, are adjusting
stops to regulate the portion of a revolution the cog wheels are to make, in
order to cause the ferrules to proceed the exact distance they are required,
and cause the cog wheels to revolve alternately in a contrary, direction. The
apparatus above described is that used for interlaying the front weft thread,
or that which is interlaid when the carriages are in front of the warp threads.
As the apparatus for interlaying the back weft thread, or that which is
interlaid when the carriages are in the back bar, is of a like construction, and
its operation alike, I have denoted the same parts by the same letters in
capitals, as A, B, &c. Note, it will be necessary to raise the needle and fork
bars; half an inch, in order to make room for the square rod J, as such rod
is placed at the back of the warp threads; the rod j being at the front of the
ends of such rods, pass through the standards, and are drawn tight by their
nuts q, Q, in order to prevent vibration by the ferrules i, I, proceeding across
the machine; and further it may be necessary to reduce the width of the entire
piece of lace ordinarily produced half an inch on each side, and remove the
carriages, points, and threads thereby rendered useless, in order to make
room for the guides k, K. By these means the machine will be capable of
producing ornamental weavings across the full width of the fabric of lace;
or, if more than one piece or breadths is being produced; then by applying
additional guides to each piece, the same effect of ornamental inlaying
of threads between the two systems of threads used in bobbin net machines
may be effected, and such ornamental weavings may be laid in, in the progress
off the working of the machine, according to the fancy of the workman,
as will become most evident when I have described the new manufacture or
compound-fabric which constitutes the second feature of my Invention:
I now proceed to describe, the mode of producing my improved fabric or

page_text: cog
ornamental lace or compound fabric constituting the second part of my
Invention. Supposing the fabric I wish to produce is one in which the
groundwork or lace net is ordinary bobbin net, and the pattern stripes of
clothwork across the piece, or from selvage to selvage thereof, is to be half an
inch deep, and two inches apart, see Figure 2, (1), I take an ordinary
traverse warp machine producing a piece of plain bobbin net, and having fitted
the apparatus for delivering the weft or interlaying threads as herein-before
described, I proceed in the ordinary mode, and produce two inches of plain
bobbin net, finishing with the course when the front points take down.
.I then stop the shogging of the needle bar, so that the carriages shall pass and
repass through the same divisions of the threads, and place the ferules i, I,
and cogs g, G, and threads 1, L, as shewn in Figure 1. I now pass the
carriages into the front bar, and pressing down the treadle c by the left foot,
cause the cog wheel d to revolve half round, or from 9 to p, and such
wheel acting on the pinion c, will cause it and the pulley a to
revolve quite round. The left foot being taken off e, the spring o,
coupled with the impetus the cog wheel d has received, will cause it
nearly to complete its revolution to the stop u, and the pinion c and
pulley a to make another revolution, and the band 6 having been actuated
by the pulley a, will cause the ferrule i, with its guide k, to proceed to
the dotted lines shewn at r, and the thread to be laid between tho
carriages and warp threads (as shewn by the black dotted line s), in
like manner to a weft thread in weaving throughout the width of the
piece. The back points are now put over to take down the weft thread to
the lace already formed, now return the carriages to the back bar, press on
the treadle E with the right foot, when the ferrule I will with its guide and
thread L, proceed to r, and deliver its weft thread, as indicated by the dotted
liness, only that such weft thread will be at the back of the warp threads.
The front points are then put over to take down, repass the carriages to the
front bar, repeat the same action on the treadle e, which, aided by the spring
o, will cause it, the cog wheel d, and the pully a, to revolve back and return
the ferrule i and guide k to their first position at i, and deliver the thread
between the carriage and warp threads, as at t in front of the warp threads.
Take down with the back points, repass the carriages into the back bar, repeat
the action upon the treadle E, which will cause the ferrule I to return with its
guide K to its first position, interlaying its thread L as before, only from left
to right, put over the front points. These constitute the operations for pro-
ducing the woven clothwork of the entire width of the fabric, and such opera-
tions are to be repeated continuously until the stripe of clothwork is of the

page_text: required depth, which for the pattern above proposed in eleven-point machine,
will require about seven repetitions. The shogging of the needle bar is now
permitted to proceed two inches; more lace. net is to be produced when
another stripe of clothwork is to be formed in like manner to that just
described. These operations are to be repeated successively till the length
required for the piece is produced. Now it. is not absolutely necessary in
order to produce stripes or portions of cloth work in conjuction with portions or
stripes of lace, that the shogging of the needle bar should be discontinued, or
as is the case in the method just described, where the traversing of the threads
is prevented during the making of the clothwork; neither is it necessary that
there should be a thread interlaid alternately at the front and back of the
warp threads, if the shogging of the needle bar is not discontinued ; as, for
example, there may be half a twist put in between every interlaid thread, and
the threads make a traverse of one gait, and if a whole twist is put in only one
interlaying thread may be used; but all these are variations merely of the
detail, not of the principle, and produce a fabric varying only in the conforma-
tion of the texture of the clothwork. From the foregoing description it will
be evident in some instances the clothwork may constitute the greater pro-
portion of the piece of compound fabric having narrow rows of lace; in other
cases the quantity of lace and the quantity of woven fabric may. bc-constantly
varying, thus producing considerable diversity of pattern. When I would
produce stripes lengthwise of the piece further to ornament the compound
fabric above described, I proceed as follows:-I adapt a method similar to
that described in a Patent granted to myself, George Mowbray, and Richard
Alabone, on or about the Twenty-seventh day of February, One thousand eight
hundred and thirty-three, to which a Specification was duly enrolled; an exa-
mination of which, aided by the following description, will readily convey to
the workman the requisite information for performing this part of the work.
Supposing the pattern I wish to produce is the same as that already described,
only proceeding lengthwise of the piece, I produce by, the ordinary mode
quillings of two inches wide, only that instead of there being no space between
them.they shall be at a distance of nearly half an inch. I then in addition to
the ordinary lacing bar at the back of the warp,threads, place a like one in
front of the warp of the threads, with the necessary shog wheels of such
lacing bar and their indentations cut sufficiently deep to connect or sew
the breadth together, only that the lacing bars shall be alternately actuated,
and always that bar which is on the same side of the warp threads as the
carriages. I then fix in the spaces that are left between the breadths
as many guides as there are dividers or needles, in which guide threads

page_text: are put in the usual manner, and the threads proceeding therefrom occupy
the same places the warp threads would have done had the breadths been
produced in the usual way; the vacant needles are removed, those last
mentioned threads do not shog, and as the carriages do not, the stripo
will be similar to a tape. Now the foregoing description immediately refers
to the producing my compound fabric, having only ordinary bobbin net lace
with stripes of woven fabric from selvage to selvage of a given width and
pattern, but it is well known that bobbin net machinery is capable of producing
a variety of lace net called Grecian, Lyons, honeycombs, &c., but such lace
ncts may be produced in conjuction with woven fabric according to the method
herein-before described, and according to the will of the operator. I would
remark, as the various modifications of bobbin net machinery have all the same
principle, that of passing one system of threads through another, or around
them, at pleasure, so, by means like unto those herein-before described, may
my new fabric or ornamental lace, or compuned fabric, be produced. I do not,
therefore, confine myself to the use of the traverse warp machinery, nor to
the precise means of laying in the weft threads from selvage to selvage, for
producing the woven portions of the compound fabric of ornamental lace.
Note, if there is too great a tension on the weft or inlaid threads, they
will have a tendency to draw in the fabric, and cause it to appear puckered,
consequently they should have a very moderate tension. Such machines,
therefore, wherein the work proceeds downwards, will in such respect have
an advantage over such wherein the work proceeds upwards, inasmuch as the
baggery of the weft threads, when interlaid, will not require so long a point
motion, whereas, when the work proceeds upwards, the contrary is the case.
And note, the fabric hereby to be produced may be of cotton, flax, silk, or
woollen, either alone or combined, and may also be of various colors
according to fancy.
The third part of my Invention consists in producing an imitation of the
ornamental parts of Valenciennes lace during the process of, and in combina-
tion with, ordinary bobbin and other twist nets, thereby producing an
embroidered lace, being an improved imitation of Valenciennes lace, which
I effect, not upon and after the twist net has been produced by ornamenting
with a needle by hand, as heretofore, after the plain net has been produced by
bobbin net machinery, but by producing such ornaments simultaneously with
the lace net by means of bobbin net machinery, and the necessary apparatus
added thereto, as hereafter described, and either ordinary bobbin net may be
used as the groundwork, or net lace, or one approaching nearer in appearance,
and having greater durability, called "Brussels lace," being that description

page_text: the pillars of which have five half twists in them in lieu of three, or that
description of lace net called cotton blond, but the small holes are not to bo
produced. Now Valenciennes lace, by far the most costly of any lace now in
use, is principally manufactured abroad, and its ornaments differ from tho
ornaments of all other kinds of lace' in being made solely of the thread of
which the thread lace net is formed, instead of, as is the case in other laces,
having additional threads of considerable thickness bordering the various
devices, and many of such devices formed of open work; and Valenciennes lace
has hitherto only been produced by bobbins on the pillow, principally in
foreign parts, and there have been imitation of such Valenciennes lace by orna-
menting by the needle a bobbin net produced by machinery, both of which
methods are very tedious and costly. I have stated that the groundwork of
my imitation of Valenceennes lace may be of various kinds. I shall describe
and shew how that which has the greatest similitude (viz), five-twisted or
Brussels, is to be ornamented during its progress of manufacture, so that it shall.
resemble Valenciennes lace, which description, with some further observations,
will be sufficient to enable a mechanic accustomed to lace machinery to orna-
ment other kinds. Figure 9 is a front view of the apparatus I use for the
purpose of producing ornamental parts (resembling those of Vallenciennes lace)
during the process of manufacturing twist or Brussels lace net. (1) is the
upper shog, which, see Fig. 6. (2) is the lower shog wheel, see Fig. 7. (3)
is a rachet wheel, having sixty teeth, and moved one tooth alternately by a
clawker on the back and front comb bar, when the combs bars part. (4) and
(5) are bars like spotting bars, working in arms, as (6); and having guides (8)
fixed therein. Figure (9) also shews the relative position of the apparatus
with the needle bar. Fig. 8 is part of Figure 9 full size. Figure 10 A
shews a pattern that would be produced by the shog wheels (6).and (7) in
Brussels net, and A, Figures 6 and 7; the starting points to produce the upper
flower; A; Fig. 10, and B the starting point, to produce the lower flower;
the connecting threads from ornament to ornament are to be cut off when the
lace is finished. To produce my imitation Valenciennes, I put into operation
a traverse warp machine with five-twist or Brussels lace net, and proposing to.
produce the pattern A, A, Figure 10, I affix to such machine the apparatus,
Fig. 9, and to each comb bar one clawker,. which at the back action of the
bar shall actuate the ratchet (3) one tooth; I thread cach guide (8); Figure 9,
with one thread from an ordinary bobbin, and of the same number as the
lace net is made of, and fasten the ends of such threads to the lace net, and
adjust the shog wheels (1) and (2) so that the ends of the bars (3) and (4)
may bear against them at A, A, and set the guides; as shewn at Fig. 9, ono

page_text: thread apart. I pass the carriages into the front bar, whose clawker acting
on the wheel (3) will cause the three wheels to move round one sixtieth
part, and there only being a rise on Fig. 6, the upper bar (4) will be shogged
one gait to the left, and the threads in its guides carried over to the next
thread; the back points are put over, and take down the interlaid portion of
the ornamenting threads, the carriages are returned to the back bar; the
wheels (1), (2), (3), will be moved round another sixtieth part, and the bar (4)
returned to its first position; the front points are then put over, and take
down the interlaid portion of the ornamenting threads. Now the course to be
worked is this, the carriages are to be passed from one bar to the other five
successive times, the shog wheels being actuated one sixtieth part after cach
passing of the carriages, the front end back points being actuated alternately a
like number of times as the carriages, and the crossing or traversing of the
threads to be performed once at the end of the fifth passing of the carriages, and
before the fifth acting of the points, this constitutes the course, and the same is to
be repeated continuously, Now it will be obvious on examining the wheels
Fig. (6) and Fig. (7) that the pattern is produced by the ornamenting threads
being repeatedly interlaid so as to fill up certain meshes of the lace net according
to the pattern intended to be produced, and variations of pattern are to be
effected by varying the depths and positions of the indentations in the wheels,
Figures 6 and 7, and decreasing or increasing the circumference of such wheels,
and the number of indentations on such circumference. If I desire to produce
an imitation of Valenciennes lace more expeditiously, I use a groundwork of
ordinary bobbin net, the diagonal threads having a greater weight or tension
on them than usual, and supposing the pattern to be similar to that already
shewn, only without so many layers of ornamenting threads, I substitute a
ratchet wheel of thirty-six teeth for No. 3, and shog wheels reduced in circum-
ference by having that portion lined with red, see Figs. 6 and 7, entirely
omitted, and the carriages only to be passed through the threads three times,
and the wheels actuated three times in each course. In other respects the
instructions above will be sufficient. Now although I have described the points
as working after every passing of the carriages, yet by using the ornamenting
thread double, or of greater thickness, the points may only be worked after
every third or fifth passing of the carriages, but in such case the bars (3)
and (4) will only be actuated at the time of performing the crossings. The
clawkers must be taken off the comb bars, and one be placed on the
crossing apparatus to actuate the ratchet (3), but I would remark that
the less number of interlayings there are of the ornamenting threads, the
lace, though produced more expeditiously, will have less the appearance

page_text: of Valenciennes. If it be, desired to make two different patterns at the
same time, but in different parts of the lace net, there will require to be added
a duplicate apparatus of that already described, with the wheels cut to suit the
pattern. In producing narrow lace I use the purl and footing edges now in
common use.
The fourth part of my Invention is to produce bobbin net lace with purled
vandyked edges, without adopting the usual mode of cutting out the vandykes.
I take a piece of lace net, as described in the Specification of a Patent granted
to me on the Twenty-seventh day of March, One thousand eight hundred and
thirty-four, being a lace net consisting of one or more purls combined by
lacing threads with each breadth of the bobbin or other lace net, as therein
fully shewn and described, and having placed such piece of lace net
rather loosely on a running frame by means of a needle and thread, I fasten
by a bank cach purl at every sixth mesh (counting lengthwise), see Fig. 11, to
the breadth to which it is connected or laced, only that such hanks are drawn
tight, and if double hanked it would be preferable. The hanks of one breath
and its purl must be just midway between the bank of the other, as shewn in
Fig. 11. The breadth of net may be ornamented, if desired, the method of
doing which is too well known to require explanation. After the piece is
bleached the lacing threads which connect the purls to the breadths are to be
withdrawn, and the extension the piece undergoes in the process of dressing
will cause the purls to be drawn into a zigzag form, and after the thread that
connects them is withdrawn, the edges will be in the form of vandykes. Now
it is necessary in producing the purls that the longitudinal threads should have
as little tension as possible, because the depth of the vandykes will be in the
exact ratio of how much the purls can be extended in length by the extension
caused in dressing. Such purls may be produced of greater length, and con-
sequently the vandyke deeper, by increasing the circumference of the work roller
just where the purls are wound round it, and which will be readily effected by
rings of wood of about half an inch in thickness, see Figure 12. Now although
I have said the banks are to be made at every sixth mesh, I do not confine
myself to this particular number, it being obvious that such hanks may be
made at greater or less distances according to the width it is desired each
vandyke should be at its base, which will be increased by hanking it at greater
distances, and vice versa.
The fifth part of my Invention consists in a method of producing narrow
weavings similar to those which constitute the ornamental part of that
description of blond and Buckinghamshire laces called "neige," and which is
also applicable to produce such "neige," or ornamenting other lace. This

page_text: method differs from that for which a Patent was granted to me and George
Mowbray and Richard Alabore, on the Twenty-seventh day of February, One
thousand eight hundred and thirty-three, that the carriage threads, in lieu of
being warp threads, are the interlaying or weft threads, and all the warp
threads pass through guides, or, as I term them, warp carriers.
Plate 3,
Figure 1, is a front view of so much of a traverse warp machine, and the
apparatus I use to produce narrow weavings (in which the weft threads shall
proceed from bobbins and carriages, and the warp threads from bobbins), as
are necessary, with the description that follows, to shew the construction of
the new parts, their relative position, and mode of operation. Figure 2 is a
transverse section of the same. Figure 3 is part of Figures 1 and 2, full size.
Figure 4 is a bird's-eye view of part of Figures 1 and 2, full size.
At (1),
Figure 1, is a series of six strips of brass or iron, which I call warp carriers,
and through small holes of which the threads that are to form the warp
threads of the weavings pass, and which are placed at the distances apart
shewn in Figure 4, and slide freely in sleas (2), which sleas are fixed to the
bar (3). (4) is a series of shog wheels, working on an axcle, and having a
ratchet (5) which is actuated by a driver. When either point bar quits the
weavings the end of each warp carrier is borne against its wheel of the series
of shog wheels (4), see Figure 4, by the springs (6), see Fig. 3. (7) is a
bracket screwed to the standard of the machine to hold the axle on which the
wheels (4) revolve. (8) are bobbins and carriages of greater thickness, to be
used when the weft thread is courser than what is used in ordinary lace net.
(9) are bobbins which supply the warp threads of the weavings. (10) is a
bar to support such bobbins. (11) are standards to support the bar (10).
(12) is the weaving without lace net; (13) the weavings with lace net. (14)
is an ordinary lacing bar for lacing the weavings together, acting with the large
bobbin and carriage threads. In order to produce narrow weavings, I take a
traverse warp machine, and dismantle of the joining apparatus and spoles,
and the parts belonging thereto, and used to actuate them, and also the upper
tier of bobbins and carriages; and supposing the weft threads of the weavings
are to be thicker than the threads usually put into such bobbins, I take every
fourth and fifth bobbin and carriage of what remain, and supply their places
with a bobbin and carriage of twice the ordinary thickness, but not otherwise
of greater dimensions. (The object in having these thick bobbins and carriages
is that they may hold a greater portion of thread. I then fix the parts 1 to 7,
9 to 11, and 14, as shewn in the Drawings, Plate 3, and bring down threads
from bobbins 9, through the holes in the warp carriers, one through each hole.
I wind the large bobbins of the carriages with such thread as I purpose shall

page_text: form the weft threads of the weaving, and fasten all such threads to the work
roller, I then put over the back points to make the threads straight. Now
all the thread holes in the warp carriers are to be at the same distances apart
as the large carriages are, in as much as overy such large carriage has to act
the part of a shuttle and pass through the warp threads, of which its thread
is to constitute the weft, the same as the thread of a shuttle does in ordinary
weaving. The operation of the machine, or, as it is termed, the course, is
this, the cariages are to be passed to the back bar, the points being let out will
actuate the ratchet (5) and shog wheels (4), which will cause every alternate warp
carrier to shog to the left, and the other three to the right, and also shog the
lacing bars; the front point are put over, and take down the crossing of the warp
threads, which being above the inlaid weft thread will also take down such
weft thread, the carriages are passed to the front bar; the ratchet (5) and
wheels (4) are actuated by the back points when let out, and the warp carriers
and lacing bar are returned to their first position; take down with the back
points, which will take down the crossing of the warp threads and the inter-
laid weft and lacing threads; these operations are to be repeated continuously.
Now the shogging of each alternate bar woulld produce a weaving having a
straight edge, but by varying the indentations on the shog wheels (+), so that
the outer warp carriers and lacing bar shall occasionally remain stationary,
the weft thread having less warp threads to hold it out will draw in and
produce an indented edge; or by attaching a ratchet and pinion to the roller
from which the lacing threads procced, by cutting such ratchet with teeth of
irregular lengths, a greater or less portion of lacing thread will be given off
and produce an indented edge to the weavings. Now it will be recollected
I directed only every fourth and fifth bobbin's carriages to be removed;
consequently, there remains three ordinary carriages between the large ones.
Now if only these weavings are to be produced, such ordinary carriages are
better removed, but as it may be desirable to attach a small portion of lace
net to one side of each weaving at (13), such ordinary carriages may be
employed for such purpose, and the threads necessary to produce with such
carriages any of the ordinary lace nets be applied to such machinery in tho
ordinary manner, as there is nothing in the apparatus necessary for producing
the weaving that will interfere with the producing of lace net with the
ordinary carriages, but in lieu of lacing the weavings together the outer edge
of the weaving will be better laced to the selvage of the next lace net.
Although I have shewn the mode of applying the apparatus for producing
narrow weavings to a traverse warp machine, I do not confine myself to such

page_text: machine, for it is obvious that as I dispence with that portion of the machine
which constitutes the only distinct character of a traverse warp, that what
remains exists in all descriptions of bobbin net machines, and that the
variations I make, and new combinations of parts I use, may be readily made
and applied in the various descriptions of bobbin nets machines, and the mode
of working the course be in all respects exactly the same.
The sixth part of my improvements is the producing by means of additional
threads crossing each other, and embodied in bobbin or other net lace during
the process of manufacturing lace net on bobbin net machines, certain
ornaments known in the lacc trade by the name of finings, being similar to
those produced on the pillow in Lisle and blond lace, and capable of being
produced of various forms, consisting of waves, curves, vandykes, and patches.
The apparatus I use to produce the finings is similar in construction and
affixed in like manner to the machine as that represented by Fig. 9
for producing the ornamental parts of Valenciennes lace, only that the ratchet
(3) has a much less number of teeth, and the shog wheels 1 and 2 less
complicated indentations, and for the pattern I shall describe I use a ratchet
like Fig. 13, and two shog wheels, as Figs. 14 and 15, and the guides in threes
in each bar, and one gait apart, as Fig. 16. The course that is to be worked
is the ordinary one, and the ratchet to be actuated by the joining wheel once
only in every course. The threads to be used about the same number as that
with which the lace net is made. The principle of this fining is that the
threads from one bar shall constantly intersect or cross the threads from the
other, and change of pattern is to be produced by varying the number and
depths of the indentations in Fig. 14 and 15, Plate 3, always keeping in
view that the threads should crosз each other. In order to produce the
pattern Fig. 17, I cut off the eyes of the guides 8, 8, Fig. 9, and solder in
cach of their ends 3 common warp guides, as Fig. 16. I then thread the
warp guides with lace thread from an ordinary bobbin, one thread in each
guide, and set the three guides at one gait apart. I adjust the shog wheels
so that the end of the bar (4) shall bear against Fig. 14 at A, and the end of
(5) against Fig. 15 at B. The course is then worked in the usual way, and
the ratchet being actuated one tooth just before the points are actuated, the
guides will be actuated, and the points take down the crossed threads from
the guides.
When eight of such courses have been made a portion of the
pattern shown between the 2 lines x, x, will be produced, a repetition of which
forms the vandyke pattern, Fig. 17. If a pattern in patches is desired to bo
produced, there must be no indentations on a portion of the circumferences of

page_text: both shog wheels, in order that the bars 4 and 5 shall not be actuated. .I.am
aware what are called in the laće trade tapes, being longitudinal linings, are in
common use, but the apparatus for producing them being wholly incapable
of producing other than staight finings, that apparatus being merely a lacing
bar having additional guides where the finings are produced, I therefore do
not claim such finings or tapes; and I am aware that threads called gymps of
much greater thickness than those constituting the body of the lace have
been used for laying in for other purposes in bobbin net machines. I
do not therefore claim the application of additional threads generally. It is
not essential that the finings should run throughout the piece; they may be
stopped at intervals according to the pattern desired.
Having thus described the nature of my Invention, and the manner of
carrying the same into effect, I would have it understood that I claim, as
secured under the present Letters Patent,-
First, the producing an ornamental part of lace, that is to say, a woven
clothwork of the entire width of the fabric or fabrics, by interlaying weft threads
between the two systems of threads used in bobbin net machines, as above
described.
Secondly, the manufacture of a compound ornamented lace fabric consisting
of alternate rows or parts of lace net and of woven clothwork running across
or from selvage to selvage of the piece, as above described.
Thirdly, the manufacture of an improved imitation of Valenciennes lace,
having the ornamental parts produced simultaneously with the lace net made
by bobbin net machinery in place of having the ornamental parts applied by
the needle after the groundwork of net has been produced by bobbin net
machinery.
Fourthly, the producing an ornamental fast purl in the form of vandykes
to lace, as above described.
Fifthly, the improvements in lace machinery for producing narrow weavings
similar to or for the purpose of ornamental parts of that description of blond
and Buckinghamshire lace called "neige," as above described.
Sixthly, I claim the producing finings in bobbin net lace by inlaying
additional threads intersecting or crossing each other in various forms or
directions, as above described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Henry William Nunn, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, this Third day of October, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and thirty-five.
H. W. NUNN. (L.B.)

page_text: AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the Third day of October, in the
year of our Lord 1835, the aforesaid Henry William Nunn came before our
said Lord the King in His Chancery, and acknowledged the Specification
aforesaid, and all and every thing therein contained and specified, in form
above written. And also the Specification aforesaid was stamped according
to the tenor of the Statute made for that purpose.