Year: 1888

page_text: Date of Application, 2nd July, 1888
Complete Specification Left, 17th Nov., 1888
Complete Specification Accepted, 14th Dec., 1888
I. FREDERICK GEORGE DRAYCOTT of No. 24 Clipstone Street Highfields Leicester
in the county of Leicester Boot and Shoe Manufacturer do hereby declare the naturo
of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of boots, shoes and the
like to further improve that class of foot coverings which have gores or gussets running
diagonally in the sides in conjunction, or in combination with buttons or lace fastenings
called expanding boots and shoes, which are not of the nature of side springs. My
object is to employ springs consisting of sections of elastic web in several widths and
secure them to each side of the upper to cover the front and extending from the vamp
or fore quarter and instep, up the leg to any height, the stretch being across the front
of the boot or shoe, the sections to come at the curve above the instep are narrower
than the rest to give the expansion and follow the curvature of the front of the log;
these sections of gusset web I cover with a vertical tab or flap forming a mock lace,
single or double button piece or other fancy design or pattern or front of a boot or
shoe so that the expanding gores are hidden from view when worn. I face round the
edges on the inside of the front or outer tab or flap after stitching the ends of the
gussets in the front of the back quarters, the outer and inner tabs or flaps are then
sewn together, the gussets are enclosed, and to keep cach section in its proper position
I stitch across the tab or flap between the sections or gores of elastic; or
may stitch
across the tab or flap, at intervals and put the gores or gussets in the spaces between
the rows of stitches before sewing the ends of the gussets to the boot or shoe ; or I
may, after forming the tab or flap cut vertical slots in the inside or lining portion so
that the sections of elastic web can be fitted therein horizontally before securing the
outer ends to the back quarter, and the side of the tab or flap coming on the inside of
the boot or shoe may be sewn to the back quarter. The back quarters and the outer
portion of the tab or flap to form a mock laced front or mock button piece can be cut
out together from one piece of material and blocked to the shape desired the ends of
the gores of elastic web are then sewn to the upper, the outer tab or flap is then stitched

page_text: Draycott & improvemenues in the manajar
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to the inner one and cover the gores or gussets. For boots that are very high in the
leg the expanding gores would not be put up to the top but I secure the top of the tab
to the sides of tho boot to keep the whole flap close down to the boot. If the tab or
flap is made loose on both sides, I make a button hole at each side at the top which
fastens on to a stud or button sewn to the back quarters. If the lab or flap is socured
up one side, "the inside of the boot," the loose side of the tab or flap is provided with
a button hole to secure it to a stud or button on the outside of the hoot or shoe. Both
the outer and inner tabs or flaps before being put together are shaped or moulded to
the form of the front of the foot by blocking, either in one piece or by cutting out two
curved pieces, close them, "the seam coming up the centre" when they are of the
shape desired to conform to the foot.
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11
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1000

page_text: Improvements in the Manufacture of Boots, Shoes, and the like.
I, FREDERICK GEORGE DRAYCOTT of No. 24 Clipstone Street, Highfields, Leicester
in the county of Leicester Boot and Shoe Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature
of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of boots, shoes and the
like to further improve that class of foot coverings called expanding boots, which have
gores or insertions of elastic or gussets running diagonally in the sides, in conjunction,
or in combination with button or lace fastenings for expanding boots and shoes which
are not of the nature of ordinary side springs.
My object is to employ springs consisting of sections of elastic web in several widths,
and secure them to each side of the upper to cover the front and extending from the
vamp, or fore quarter, and instep up the leg quarters to any height the stretch being
across the whole of the front of the boot or other foot covering, the said elastic springs
being hidden and covered by flaps or tabs in the manner hereinafter described.
That my invention may be well understood reference is made to the patterns and
modifications thereof illustrated in the accompanying sheet of drawings and to which
I will now refer.
Figure 1. is a finished boot A. the dotted lines B are elastic springs coming under
the button fly C. to which are attached the mock buttons D. the outer edges of the
flaps are connected at the points shown in figure 2. the other sections of narrow
elastic E. are for the purpose of holding the button fly down, and are placed between
the lining and the outer quarter F. and stitched to the golosh and back quarter G.
their outer ends being secured to the under side of the button fly.
Figure 2. is an inside view of the inner quarter of a boot, A. the button fly being
seamed up the front at a' one end of the sections of elastic web B is stitched to the
inner quarter of the upper at band to the outer quarter, see dotted line 6³ figure 1.
the inner tab or flap b³ is sewn in with, and to the outer one, also between each section
of clastic spring at 6 sufficient room being left for the springs to have enough play.
Figure 3. is an outer quarter of an upper, A. having the sections of elastic B. for
holding down the button fly coming through slots in the front of the outer quarter F,
and secured at their inner ends to the golosh and back, G. their outer ends been
previously secured to the under side of the button fly.
Figure 4. shows an outer section of the button fly C. the marks thereon indicate at
what point the sections of elastic B. are secured to hold the tab down to the
boot.
Figure 5. are flat patterns of the outer and inner leg quarters of an upper, A.
laid on each other for marking the angles at which the sections of elastic are to
be sewn.

page_text: Figure 6. is a flat pattorn of an inner quarter A. and button fly (½ cut out of one
piece of material.
Figure 7. is another flat pattern of an upper A, whereby both figures 1 and 8 can
he made out of one piece of material excopt for adding the mock button piece by
placing the butterfly flap C and sewing over the front of the inner quarter, or
for lace flaps, I make the butterfly lacing rounders C² both being shown in dotted
line.
Figure 8, is a view in perspective of a laced boot A. having the sections of clastic
web B. sewn in to the inner and outer quarters and covered by the flaps ( which
carry oylets or worked holes, and are luced and secured by an elastic lace ("
demonstrating a mock lace, to allow the boot to he pulled on or off without unlacing
the elastic lace C stretching to the width required, the loop II, forming an innor and
outer cover for the elastic springs B.
Figure 9. is a modified flat view of a laced upper having an olastic insertion in both
sides 1, which may extend to the bottom if necessary, or the dotted lines J. to
represent a button fly having a similar elastic insertion therein; when this is done the
outer portion of the button fly above the throat is secured to the side of the boot, for
wider fitting than figure 8.
Figure 10. the plastic insertion I. in this upper will give in combination with the
front springs a wide fitting.
Figure 11. this elastic insertion I in this upper in conjunction with the front
springs will allow of a medium size fitting.
To carry my invention into effect I will firstly describe the means I adopt to
produce a buttoned hoot which can be put on or taken off instantly by employing
sections of elastic wob varying in width and securing them to the sides of the
that they stretch across the front of the boot or shoe.
upper
order that the button fly or flap shall not crease and turn up at the curvo ahovo
the instep the springs are narrower here than the rest to follow the curvature of the
front of the lug portion of the boot. When the sections have been sewn in the
inner and outer leg quarters the back flap or tab is sewn on the front one, and secured
between ench section of elastie.
The button fly, or moek button piece, or lace flies, or other fancy pattern or design
to form the front of the boot is then finished being previously blocked to the shape
desired and cover the expanding front gores that they are not seen when worn, the
back of the boot is then seamed up when it is ready for the laster, or the tabs or flaps
may be put together and the lengths of elastic put therein before the ends of the
elastic aro sewn to the inner and outer log quarters, or the tabs, or flaps can be both
put together and slots cut down vertically in the back flap and of the width to
admit the varying widths of elastic, the ends of the elastic-springs are then, after
being threaded through the slots, stitched to the leg quarters, or as shown in
figure 1, one side of the inner tab or flap may be sewn to the lining of the inner
quarter, and leaving room for the free action of the springs stretching across the front
of the foot.
In high logged boots such as shown in figure 1, the top of the button fly is secured
by a button sewn on the outer leg quarter this has to be undone to get the boot
on, or off.
If a double button fly is required the same means are adopted us in the preceeding
description, with part of the tab secured to the leg quarters. Various designs of
button flaps or tabs are employed some cut in ono with the inner leg quarter as
shown in figure 6, or double as shown in dotted lines in figure 7. or made out of two
curved pieces, one of which is shown in figure 4-all being blocked to the shapo of
the foot.
Of course it will be well understood that in some cases in order to got the
requisite amount of stretch at the top or down to the throat of a boot I have to
make expanding gores in the sides, or close to the front as shown in figuros 9. 10
and 11. in conjunction with the elastic springs which close up each leg quarter.

page_text: To improve the appearance of the boots I make them in one piece except adding
the front tab or flap shown in figure 7. this is blocked and the clastic springs inserted
as before described before the back is seamed up.
In producing laced boots or shoes that can be put on or taken off without interfering
with the laces I obtain the amount of expansion necessary by using elastic laces with
the combination of side gores, but the same means are carried out as before described
except that the closure elastic springs are wider and in a less number of sections, and
partly covered on both sides by the loop, or its equivalent. I have not herein
illustrated shoes but anyone experienced in the art will understand that my invention
can be applied to other foot coverings than those shown.
I am aware that elastic springs, and expanding gores have been used to close boots
and shoes in almost every conceivable way and have been put partly up the front,
sides, and back-but not to form the whole front and stretching across the front
of a boot whereby a person can get on or take off the boot without having to interfere
or unfasten a number of buttons, or unlace a great many holes before the boot is got
on or off the foot.
And unlike other expanding boots mine can be worn during the winter being
constructed with the idea of preventing wet getting into the foot-I do not confine
myself to the designs herein set forth, various other patterns may be cut and having
the elastic springs going over the front and closing the boot up in combination with
the other devices hereinbefore described.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of this inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. Improvements in the manufacture of boots, or other foot coverings having a
series of varying widths of elastic web arranged to cover and close up the front of the
leg and covered by a suitable fly or flap, in the manner described.
2. Improvements in the manufacture of boots or other foot coverings having
sections of elastic web arranged to close up the front of the leg in conjunction with
eyelet flaps and elastic laces, to cover the elastic springs, and in combination with
elastic gores or side springs. Substantially in the manner and for the purpose
herein before described and set forth.
Dated this 12th day of November 1888