AN IMPROVED INSTRUMENT FOR FACILI- DO • PROAL
Year: 1872

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Nathan Schor, of Jerusalem, but now resident
at 15, Bandon Road, Victoria Park, in the County of Middlesex,
Tailor, for the Invention of "AN IMPROVED INSTRUMENT FOR FACILI-
DO
•
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Nathan Schor at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
16th August 1872. :
I, NATHAN SCHOR, of Jerusalem, but now resident at 15, Bandon
Road, Victoria Park, in the County of Middlesex, Tailor, do hereby
declare the nature of the said. Invention for "AN IMPROVED Instrument
FOR FACILITATING THE CUTTING OUT OF CLOTE FOR COATS AND OTHER GARMENTS,"
to be as follows :—
My Invention consists in the construction of a scale or measure
adapted for tailors' use, by means of which the subordinate measures
or proportions are indicated as based upon. four principal measure-
ments to be taken from the person to be fitted. The said scale or.
measure is made of light wood or other convenient material, with

page_text: divisions or graduations cut in or marked on its surface on each side,
those on one side relating to the measurements for the back of the
garment, and those on the other side for the front of the same.
This
scale or measure which I call a "homometer has graduations marked
upon it capable of indicating the measurements for cutting out coats and 5
jackets of twenty-five sizes. These graduations are so arranged that by
taking the principal measurement, and observing the degree connected
therewith, this same degree must be followed throughout the several
subordinate measurements relating thereto.
For instance, take the measurement in centimètres of half the upper 1
breadth (that is to say, half round the body at the chest), then the
degree opposite to the number of centimètres thus found will be that
which will have to be followed throughout. If however the length of
the back be found by measurement of the person not to agree with the
said upper breadth, but to be longer or shorter, then the degree corre- 1
sponding with such different number of centimètres must be followed in
the parts relating to the lower part of the front of the garment.
Then, again, as to the length of the sleeve, the number of centimètres
ascertained by measurement of the person must be taken, and opposite
to this number will be found the corresponding degree, which degree ?
must be followed throughout the graduated scales relating to the
sleeves.
And, lastly, with reference to the measurement of the lower breadth;
when this does not correspond with the degree, then the number of
centimètres may be taken for this measurement.
The above described "homometer," which is constructed for cutting
out coats and jackets, may be modified so as to adapt it for waistcoats,
paletôts, or overcoats, and military uniforms.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Nathan Schor in the Great Seal Patent Office 30
on the 11th February 1873.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, NATHAN
SCHOR, of Jerusalem, but now resident at 15, Bandon Road, Victoria
Park, in the County of Middlesex, Tailor, send greeting.
:

page_text: WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Sixteenth day of August, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-two, in the thirty-
sixth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors,
'give and grant unto me, the said Nathan Schor, Her special licence
that I, the said Nathan Schor, my executors, administrators, and
assigns, or such others as I, the said Nathan Schor, my exccutors,
administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no
'others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the term
therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the
Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "AN IMPROVED.
INSTRUMENT FOR FACILITATING THE CUTTING OUT OF CLOTH FOR COATS AND
OTHER GARMENTS," upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the
5 said Nathan Schor, my exccutors or administrators, by an instrument
in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should
particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and
in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to
be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next
) and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Nathan Schor, do hereby declare
the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement, reference being had to the Drawings hereunto
annexed, and to the letters and figures marked thereon (that is to
·say) :-
My Invention of "An Improved Instrument for Facilitating the
'Cutting Out of Cloth for Coats and other Garments," consists in the
construction of a scalo-or measure adapted for tailors' use, by means of
which the subordinate measures or proportions are indicated as based
upon four principal measurements to be taken from the person to be
fitted. The said scale or measure is made of light wood or other con-
venient material, with divisions or graduations cut in or marked on its
surface on each side, those on one side relating to the measurements for
the back of the garment, and those on the other side for the front of the
same. This scale or measure, which I call a "homometer," has gradua-
tions marked upon it capable of indicating the measurements for cutting
out coats and jackets of twenty-five sizes. These graduations are so

page_text: The "homometer." shown at Figures 1 and 2 is, by preference, made
of light wood, but it may be made of any suitable material adapted for
convenient handling in use. The Figures represent the "homometer"
full size, with the divisions or graduations as arranged for use, and either
cut in or marked on the surface thereof. An instrument of the kind
represented is adapted for cutting out coats and jackets of twenty-five
sizes or degrees. It includes or contains altogether thirty-five degrees;
but the first ten are omitted, as they relate to children too small to wear
coats or jackets, so that the "homometer" begins with degree eleven.
There are two sides or graduated surfaces of the instrument; that shewn
at Fig. 1, and marked A, including the measurement relating to the
back and sleeves of the garment, and that shewn at Fig. 2, and marked B,
relating to the front of the same. On the sido A are shewn sixty
divisions in centimètres, which are intended to form the basis of other
measurements, and by the side of these fundamental divisions are shewn
the twenty-five degrees, beginning at eleven, and going on to thirty-five.
The object of this arrangement is to indicate the degree which corresponds
with one of the principal measurements taken in centimètres, and is to
be followed in the subordinate measurements relating thereto. If pre-
ferred, the column of centrimètres may be replaced by a column of
inches.
There are four principal measurements to be taken from the person,
viz., first, half the upper breadth (half round the body at the chest);
secondly, the length of the back (some persons being stout and short,
while others are thin and tall); thirdly, the length of the sleeve; and,
fourthly, the lower breadth (different persons varying in the relative
proportion as to their upper and lower breadth). As a general rule it is
only necessary to take from the person the measure of the upper breadth,
and then noting on the "homometer", the degree corresponding with
the number of centimètres (or inches) thus found, such degree has to be
followed throughout.
i
For instance, suppose half the upper breadth to measure forty-six
ċentimètres, that number on the "homometer" will indicate the twenty--
first degree, then this degree must be followed throughout. Then, again,
forty-eight centimètres will indicate the twenty-third degree, and fifty-
five centimetres the thirtieth degree, and so on. This is on the assump-
tion that the person to be fitted is well and regularly proportioned. But
this rule has to bo modified to suit irregularities of proportion. For

page_text: example, when the back is longer or shorter than the due proportion,
and does not agree with the measurement of the upper breadth, then a
separate measure of the length of the back must be taken, and the
degree corresponding to the number of centimètres so found must be
observed and followed in the measurements relating to the lower part of
the front, that is to say, supposing half the upper breadth to measure
forty-six centimètres, the corresponding degree shewn in the column
No. 2 on the left hand of the column of centimètres is the twenty-first;
but if the length of the back extends to forty-eight centimètres, the
corresponding degree will be the twenty-ninth, and this degree must be
followed in columns No. 3 and 6 on side B, which columns relate to the
lower part of the front, while in all the rest the twenty-first degree is
to be followed, according to the general rule above referred to.
Again, the length of the sleeve has to be taken from the person to be
fitted, and the subordinate measurements found from it. If this measure
fifty centimetres, then the lowest column marked H must be looked to,
and it will be seen that this number indicates the eleventh as its corre-
sponding degree, so that this cloventh degree must be taken in the two
other columns marked H also. Should the length of sleeve exceed sixty
centimètres, the corresponding degree in a horizontal line shewn by the
lowest H column is, in like manner, to be followed in the two other H
columns.
And, again, with reference to the measurement of the lower breadth;
this must be taken from the person, and should it not agree with the
number of centimètres shewn by the measurement of the upper breadth,
the degree in No. 12 column, side B, corresponding with the number of
centimètres found by actual measurement must be taken.
I will now proceed to describe the Diagrams, Figures 3, 4, and 5, as
illustrations of the mode of using the "homometer."
Fig. 3 represents measurements on the A side of the scale or measure, a
which have reference to the back of the garment. The diagram is
projected by first laying out two lines at right angles forming a right
angle at 0, from which point all measurements start, those relating to
the length on the perpendicular line, and to breadths at right angles
thereto. All measurements likewise start from the top of the "homo- 3
meter.' In Fig. 3, the length from 0 to 1 is the distance from the top
of the "homometer " to the degree in column No. 1, corresponding with
"

page_text: the number of centimètres found by the measure of half the upper.
breadth. Likewise, from 0 to 2 is the distance from the top of the
"homometer" to the same degree in column No. 2. And from 0 to 3
is taken in the same way from column No.. 3. Then as to the breadth,
the distance from 0 to 4 is the distance from the top of the "homometer
to the same degree in No. 4 column, and from 1 to 5 to the same degree
in No. 5 column.
"
Fig. 4 represents measurements on the B side of the scale or measure,
which have reference to the front of the garment. On reference to this
diagram the several numbers will be found to indicate the columns on the
"homometer," in which columns the number of the degree (say, twenty-
five) will indicate the distance from the top of the "homometer" for
the particular measurement required; the numbers being taken on the
vertical line starting from the point 0 for the lengths, and in lines at
right angles thereto. for the breadths.
Fig. 5 represents measurements on the A side of the scalo or measure,
which have reference to the sleeves, the same arrangement being adopted
as to the projection of the diagram as in the two former cases, and
which diagram on the full scale constitutes the pattern for cutting
the cloth.
It will be understood. by tailors that the numbers of the degrees in the
several columns above referred to indicate leading measurements, the
ready ascertainment and delineation of which, by means of the "homo-
meter," in the way described, affords great facility in cutting out.
"
•
In adapting the "homometer" above described for use in cutting out
waistcoats, paletots, or overcoats, and military uniforms, it only requires
to be modified so as to include columns of degrees relating to such parts
of these garments as are not contained in the several columns described
with reference to coats and jackets, either in addition to, or in sub-
stitution for, such last-mentioned columns. In " homometers con-
structed in this modified form, the essential principle of construction
remains the same, that is to say, it consists in columns of degrees
placed and arranged in relation to the numbers of centimetres (or inches)
which represent the principal measurements taken from the person to
; be fitted.
It is further to be observed with reference to the use of the "homo-
.

page_text: unusual proportions of the parts of the body in persons to be fitted, also
to suit different fashions.
The former variations may be left to the discretion and skill of the
tailor, and the latter when required to meet an established change of
fashion may be provided for by special modifications in arrangements
of the columns without departing from the main principle described
above.
Having thus described the nature of the said Invention, and in what
manner the same is to be performed, I hereby declare that what I claim
as of my Invention is, the construction of scales or measures adapted to
facilitate the cutting out of cloth for coats and other garments, such
scales or measures being constructed on the principle of placing and
arranging columns of degrees in relation to a column of centimètres (or
inches) in such a manner as to facilitate the reading off of the several
degrees corresponding with the number of centimètres (or inches) taken
by measurement of the persons to be fitted, as herein-before described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Nathan Schor, have hereunto set
my hand and scal, the Ninth day of October, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-two.
Witness,
WILLIAM SPENCE,
8, Quality Court,
NATHAN SCHOR. (L.S.)
Chancery Lanc,
Patent Agent..