Year: 1888

page_text: Projecting from the centre of the table is a flange d (Figure 3) over which fits
snugly the dish D the latter being of the peculiar form shown in Figures 3 and 6.
The dish may be supported adjustably as regards height by a set screw acting
either directly or through the medium of a spring to supplement the natural
elasticity of tlie yielding die hereinafter referred to and make the effect of the closing
of the pressing flanges over the top of the curls similar to that of ironing on the felt
of the hat brim.
As shown in Figures 3 and 6 the dish D contains a bag E of the peculiar form.
shown in Figure 10 this bag being of rubber or other flexible material and conforming
to the general shape of the hat brim that is to say it is oval in outline tapered or out-
wardly bevelled at each end to accord with the dip of the front and rear portions of
the brim and having a concave or inwardly bevelled upper surface at each side where
it acts upon the roll of the brim. The bag has an inlet pipe e which may either
communicate with a water tank F as shown in Figure 1 or with a pump or reservoir
containing fluid under pressure the pipe being provided with a suitable stop cock e¹
for cutting off the supply of fluid when the bag is filled.
G is a sheet of cloth or rubber which may if desired be placed over the bag E and
above a metallic disk H Figure 15 or its equivalent which will gauge the position of
the front and back of the curl as described hereafier..
The hat block I is secured to the dish D by a suitable set screw or clamp that will
hold it in place against upward pressure and yet permit it to be readily detached
when a hat of a different size has to be acted upon.
JJ are the formers over which the hat brim is moulded and curled as shown in
Figure 3.
These curls may be either loose as illustrated in the drawings or may be attached
to suitable arms as shown in the Kelsey Patents above referred to.
In the drawings I have shown detached curls and pivotted presser arms K K having
adjustable plates which are provided with adjustable pressing pins for bearing
upon the curls.
The arms Kare pivoted to brackets K₁ secured to the table A and the rock shaft
on shafts L to which the armis K are secured are provided at their outer ends with
arms to which a treadle is connected by rods mm at each side of the machine a
counterweight m being attached to the treadle M. by ropes m² which pass over
suitable pulleys on the opposite side frames of the machine. This counterweight
tends to keep the arms K in the elevated position shown in Figure 2 where they will
be out of the way of the operator.
Other devices than those shown in the drawings may however be used for imparting.
pressure to the curls without departing from my invention.
When the curls are in position as shown in Figure 4 they are clamped together
by any suitable devices but I prefer to use the devices shown in Figures 7 and 8. the
curls having lugs with projecting pins and a clamp N. which is forked and
slotted at a being passed over the pins and turned down as shown in Figure 9 so
as to secure the two curls firmly together.
r:
The front and back pressing flanges care secured to the side pressing flanges c by
bolis which pass through inclined slots in the sliding flanges whereby the closing
of the side pressing flanges will also owing to the inclined slots and the bolts
effect the closing of the front and back slides and in order to assist in centering the
curls J. I prefer to form on or secure to these front and back pressing flanges c¹
lugs n so that when the curls J are locked together by the clamps N. the handles N
of the latter fit snugly between lugs n' on the front and back flanges c
block assists also in centering the curls as the latter are dropped over the hat, the
centering of the curls being necessary as the arms K being separate therefrom,
exercise no such influence over the curls, but serve simply to depress the same.
The
The curls J, J may be secured as shown in Figure 12, one end of each curls being
swivelled at p to pieces p, hinged together at their onter ends clamp arms N
being pivotted to the opposite ends of the curls and held together by a sleeve N³
as shown.

page_text: The curls may be hollow in order to make them as light as possible, and I prefer
to cast the lower portion of onch curl with a groove or recess and then solder or
braze to the top of the casting a thin metal cover J', as shown in Figure 13, thus
making the curl very light and convenient for the operator to handle.
The side pressing flanges care secured together by the front and back flanges c',
which as before described, have slots for the reception of screw bolts on said side
flanges, and the side flanges are attached to the leads B, B by bolts which pass
through openings in the loads and through open bottomed slots in the side flange,
(see Figure 3) so that the entire set of pressing flanges can be taken from the
heads B, B, without taking the set apart.
The operation of the machine is as follows:-
When a certain sized hat is to be curled and set, the proper curls J, J, are first
clamped together and are then placed in the correct position upon the bag E.
The pressing flanges are then moved to the positions shown in Figure 3, and
water, air or other fluid is admitted to the bag E until the latter is filled, and con-
forins to the shape of the underside of the curls J, the supply of fluid to and the
escape of fluid from the bag being then cut off by closing the stop cock e¹, where-
upon the flanges are retracted and the curls released.
A hat having its brim portion softened and rendered flexible by heat or otherwise,
is then placed over the block 1, and the curls J placed in position on the brim, as
shown in Figure 4, and subjected to pressure. As all escape of fluid from the
bag E is cut off, said bag, when the brim is pressed downwards by the curls, must
necessarily conform to the shape of the under surfaces of the curls and present a solid
backing for the brim of the hat.
The pressing flanges c, c', are then forced partly over the curls by the operation
of the lever, so as to draw the brim closely against the curls and the depressing
levers K, K, are then raised and the inward movement of the pressing flanges com-
pleted, as shown in Figure 5, so as to iron or flatten the curled edges of the brim.
It will be noticed that the under sido of the brim which constituies the roll of the
hat, is formed by the pressure of the fluid-filled bag, this pressure being exerted
first at the inner portion of the roll next the crown and then extending gradually to
the outer portion of the roll, so as to press the edges of the brim up into the path of
the side pressing flanges c, by the inward movement of which the curling of the
brim is effected, so that a smoothly finished roll and a very sharp and even curl
of the brim is insured.
Not only is the action of the fluid-filled bag or flexible under-die more effective than
that of the usual solid die, but said flexible under-dio is capable of use for every
sized hat which has to be made, thus dispensing with the use of a separate under-die
or dish for each size of hat.
The upper shell of the die is preferably thickened at and near the inner portion,
as shown in Figures 18 and 19, so that it will possess a greater degree of flexibility
at the outer portion of the roll of the brim than at the inner portion of the same, the
necessary movement of the die being greatest at said outer portion.
It is not necessary in carrying out my invention, that the die should be made in
the form of a bag detachable from the dish of the machine, as said dish itself may
form a fluid receptacle and be provided with a flexible covering, as shown, for
instance, in Figures 20 and 21.
The die may be solid at the ends, if desired, as shown in Figure 22, these portions
of hat brims being generally of uniform dip, which is unaffected by the different
shapes of the curled portions of the brim, hence, in many cases, a lower die having its
side portions only flexible, will answer the purpose.
My invention may also be carried out without the use of a fluid-filled die, as I may
also use a solid die of rubber or other material possessing such elasticity that it will
conform to the shape of the upper curls when the hat brim is pressed down by the same
upon the lower die, (sec Figures 23 and 24).
It will be seen that although the trouble and expense of providing. 2 number
of lower dies, one for each shape of hat brim,-is overcome by my invention, the die

page_text: is as convenient as a solid die and does not necessitate any change in the working
parts of the machine.
I am aware that it has often been proposed to use, and that numerous patents have
been granted which illustrate and describe the use of, flexible pressers in hat pressing
machines, the presser being sometimes solid and elastic, sometimes in the form of
boxes which are provided with rubber or like flexible diaphragms, for acting on the
hat, and which receive water or other fluid from a pump or reservoir under pressure,
to distend the diaphragms, and sometimes in the form of boxes having rubber diaphragms
and containing a confined volume of air or water, or a granular mass which will
conform to the desired shape, the elastic or flexible bag pressers having heen proposed
both for pressing hat crowns and brims.
The usual flexible bag presser, however, when employed for forming the brim of
the hat, has a diaphragin larger than said brim, and this diaphragm is caused by the
presser to overlap the edges of the upper dies, and thus form not only the roll, but
the curl of the brim as well.
I find that it is much preferable to use a flexible die of limited size, the upper
surface of which, before the pressing operation, conforms to the general shape of the
brim with its dip and roll, and during the pressing operation acts only upon the
underside of the brim, so as to press the same against the adjacent faces of the upper
curls reliance being placed upon the pressing flanges to cause the inward bending or
curling of the edge of the brini, as a much more effective means for the purpose than
would be afforded by a flexible presser.
The only expensive pieces in my improved machine, are the curls, and economy in the
manufacture of these may be attained by making one pattern for a certain style and
obtaining different sizes of castings by successive shrinkages, thus the casting from
the pattern will, owing to shrinkage, be less than said pattern, a second casting
obtained by using the first casting as a pattern, will be less than said first casting, a
third casting made from the second will be still less, and so on.
The construction of the curls shown in Figures 8, 9, 12 and 13 is much simpler
than that shown in Kelsey's patents. In the Kelsey machine, the curls are secured to
an inner ring, and accurate fitting is required, as well as care in attaching the ring
to the swinging arms shewn in that patent.
The upper arc of the curls which I use is a fixed one, being less by the thickness of
the felt of the hat than the are of the side clamps c. The inner opening or oval
accords in size and shape with the size and shape of the hat to be acted upon, and the
outer oval edge and the shape of the underside can be readily obtained from a
model hat.
While in some instances an inner ring for the curls is of great convenience in taking
the curls from a hat brim after it has been shaped and set, I find but little difficulty
in rêmoving the sections shown in Figures 8 and 9.
In place of the bag E the dish D may be used as the receptacle for fluid by
providing it with a flexible cover S, as shown in Figure II, said cover being secured
to the flanges of the dish in any suitable manner, as for instance, by rivetting,
cementing or clamping.
When the cover is attached directly to the dish, as shown in Figure 10, I prefer
to form the said cover as shown in Figure 14, that is to say, thick at the portion
and gradually diminishing in thickness to the portion ', so that it will conform
more readily to the shape of curls J; in fact the cloth or rubber sheet G may
be likewise shaped when the bag E is used, or the upper side of the bag itself
may be used in this way when the use of a cloth or rubber sheet G is dispensed with.
In some cases I prefer to use an oval disk H placed beneath the rubber or
cloth sheet G and above the bag E forming a set plate, this disk having at front
and rear,, projections conforming to the dip of the curls J, so that it is adapted
to support any sized hat.
These projections serve to relieve the front and back portions of the bag from
part of the pressure, and although their use is preferable, it is not essential, as I
have curled hats perfectly without it.

page_text: In Figure 16 T have shown the dish made in two parts, the dish proper being
secured to the base plate A of the machine and the centre portion D' adapted
to be raised or lowered by the screw independently of the outer portion of the
dish D by this means the machine can be readily adapted for forming any desired
depth of curl.
It should be understood that the terms "lower" and "upper" are used in this
specification as applying to those parts which act respectively upon the upper and
underside of the brim of the hat, and not as indicating the necessary location
of the parts in the machine, for it will be evident that my invention is applicable
to a machine in which the location of the parts is the reverse of that shown, that
is to say, in which the fluid filled die is above, and the curls beneath, or in which
the parts are otherwise disposed in a manner different from that shown in the
drawing.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that I am aware
of the Patent No. 2003 of 8th February 1887 granted to John Robinson Kelsey and
I make no claim to anything which is described and claimed in the Specification of that
Patent what I claim is :-
1. The combination, in a hat brim curling machine, of upper curls, a lower die
consisting of a flexible fluid-filled casing, and a flexible sheet covering the said
lower die all substantially as hereinbefore specified.
2. The combination, in a hat brim curling machine, of the upper curls, the
lower flexible and fluid filled die, and a set plate having a bearing on the under-
side of the hat brim at the front and rear of the hat, all substantially as herein before
specified.
3. The combination of the upper curls made in sections with securing clamps,
substantially as hereinbefore specified.
4. The combination in a hat brim curling machine, of side and end pressing
flanges secured together so as to constitute one structure, operating heads for the
said flanges, and securing bolts adapted to open ended slots, so as to permit
the removal of the flange structure as a unit, all substantially as hereinbefore specified.
5. The combination in a hat brim curling machine, of upper curls, with a pressure
free from connection with the curls, but bearing upon the latter to depress the same,
all substantially as hereinbefore specified.
6. The combination, in a hat brim curling machine of upper curls, with a presser
free from connection with the curls and having adjustable pins for bearing on the said
curls all substantially as hereinbefore specified.
7. The combination, in a hat brimi curling machine, of the upper curls, with a
presser having adjustable plates carrying pins for hearing on the curls, substantially
as herein before specified.
8. The combination, in a hai brim curling machine, of the hat block, the lower
die, and upper curls conforming to and centered by the said bat block and separate
from the pressure imparting devices, all substantially as herein before specified.
9. The combination, in a hat brim curling machine, of the end pressing flanges
having guides thereon, with upper curls made in sections, and clamping levers for the
said curls having arms adapted to the guides on the flanges, all substantially as herein-
before specified.
10. The combination, in a hat briin curling machine, of upper curls consisting
of sections clamped together, a presser acting thereon, but disconnected therefrom,
pressing flanges, and a lower die, all substantially as hereinbefore specified.
11. The herein before described dish for a hat brim curling machine, said dish
comprising the fixed outer portion and adjustable centre portion, substantially as
hereinbefore specified.
12. The combination of the detached upper curls of a hat brim curling machine and
lower die and bat block with guides to assist in centering the said detached curls,
substantially as herein before described.

page_text: 13. The hereinbefore described die for a hat brim curling machine, said die having
an upper surface conforming to the general shape of the brim with its dip and roll
and constructed to act upon the underside of the brim only, that portion of the die
which acts upon the roll of the brim being flexible, all substantially as hereinbefore
specified.
14. The herein before described, die for a hat brim curling machine the said die
having an upper surface flexible throughout and conforming to the general shape of
the brim with its dip and roll the said upper surface being such as to act upon
the underside of the brim only in pressing, all substantially as hereinbefore
specified.
15. The hereinbefore described die for a hat brim curling machine the said die
having an upper surface conforming to the general shape of the brim with its dip and
roll, the roll portions of the die being hollow and filled with fluid, all substantially as
hereinbefore specified.
16. The hereinbefore described die for a hat brim curling machine the said die
consisting of a casing hollow and fluid filled throughout and having a flexible upper
surface which conforms to the general shape of the brim of the hat, all substantially
as hereinbefore specified.
17. The hereinbefore described die for a hat brim curling machine the said die
constituting a unitary and self contained structure independent of and detachable
from, the machine, and having a flexible upper surface conforming to the general
shape of the brim of the hat, all substantially as herein before specified.
18. The herein before described die for a hat brim curling machine the said die
consisting of a flexible fluid filled casing, constituting a unitary and self contained
structure independent of and detachable from the machine; all substantially as herein-
before specified.
19. The hereinbefore described die for a hat brim curling machine, the said die
conforming to the general shape of the hat brim, having a central opening for
receiving a projecting portion of the dish of the machine, and possessing such flexibility
that it will adapt itself to the shape of the curls, when subjected to pressure, all
substantially as herein before specified.
20. The herein before described die for a hat brim curling machine, the said die
consisting of a flexible fluid filled casing that portion of the latter which acts upon
the hat varying in thickness, so as to vary in flexibility in different parts, all substan-
tially as hereinbefore specified.
21. The combination, in a hat brim curling machine, of a dish having a recessed
face, with a lower die adapted to the said recessed face of the dish, and possessing
such flexibility that it will adapt itself to the shape of the curls when subjected to the
pressure of the same, all substantially as hereinbefore specified.
22. The combination in a hat brim curling machine, of the upper curls, the side
pressing flanges, and a lower flexible die for acting on the brim of the hat, all
substantially as hereinbefore specified.
23. The combination in a hat brim curling machine, of the upper curls, the side
and end pressing flanges, and the lower flexible die for acting on the brim of the hat,
all substantially as hereinbefore specified.
24. The hereinbefore described bottom board or lower die for a hat brim curling
machine, said die having a flexible portion for acting upon the underside
of the brim, and a central rigid portion, all substantially as herein before specified.
Dated this 28th day of December 1888.
J. H. JOHNSON & Co.,
47, Lincoln's Inn Fields, London, W.C.,
Agents.

page_text: Date of Application, 28th Dec., 1888
Specification Accepted, 5th Feb., 1889

page_text: Projecting from the centre of the table is a flange d (Figure 3) over which fits
snugly the dish D the latter being of the peculiar form shown in Figures 3 and 6.
The dish may be supported adjustably as regards height by a set screw d'acting
either directly or through the medium of a spring to supplement the natural
elasticity of the yielding die hereinafter referred to and make the effect of the closing
of the pressing flanges over the top of the curls similar to that of ironing on the felt
of the hat brim.
As shown in Figures-3 and 6 the dishi D contains a bag E of the peculiar form
shown in Figure 10 this bag being of rubber or other flexible material and conforming
to the general shape of the hat brim that is to say it is oval in outline tapered or out-
wardly.hevelled at each end to accord with the dip of the front and rear portions of
the brim and having a concave or inwardly bevelled upper surface at each side where
it acts upon the roll of the brim. The bag has an inlet pipe e which may either
communicate with a water tank F as shown in Figure 1 or with a pump or reservoir
containing fluid under pressure the pipe being provided with a suitable stop cock e¹
for cutting off the supply of fluid when thic bag is filled.
G is a sheet of cloth or rubber which may if desired be placed over the bag E and
above a metallic disk H. Figure 15 or its equivalent which will gauge the position of
the front and back of the curl as described hereafter.
The hat block I is secured to the dish D. by a suitable set screw or clamp that will
hold it in place against upward pressure and yet permit it to be readily detached
when a hat of a different size has to be acted upon.
JJ are the formers over which the hat brim is moulded and curled as shown' in
Figure 3:
These curls may be either loose as illustrated in the drawings or may be attached
to suitable arms as shown in the Kelsey Patents above referred to.
In the drawings I have shown detached curls and pivotted presser arms K K having
adjustable plates which are provided with adjustable pressing pins for bearing
upon the curls.
The arms K are pivoted to brackets K' secured to the table A and the rock shaft
or shafts L to which the arms Kare, secured are provided at their outer ends with
arms to which a treadle is connected by rods m m at each side of the machine a
counterweight m being attached to the treadle M. by ropes m" which pass over.
suitable pulleys on the opposite side frames of the machine. This counterweight
tends to keep the arms K in the elevated position shown in Figure 2 where they will
be out of the way of the operator.
Other devices than those shown in the drawings may however be used for imparting
pressure to the curls J without departing from my invention.
When the curls are in position as shown in Figure 4 they are clamped together
by any suitable devices but I prefer to use the devices shown in Figures 7 and 8. the
curls having lugs jj with projecting pins and a clamp N. which is forked and
slotted at a being passed over the pins and turned down as shown in Figure 8 so
as to secure the two curls firmly together.
The front and back pressing flanges care secured to the side pressing flanges by
bolts c² which pass through inclined slots in the sliding flanges of whereby the closing
of the side pressing flanges will also owing to the inclined slots and the bolts
effect the closing of the front and back slides and in order to assist in centering the
curls J. I prefer to form on or secure to these front and back pressing flanges c
lugs n so that when the curls J are locked together by the clamps N. the handles N
of the latter fit snugly between lugs n' on the front and back flanges c. The
block I assists also in centering the curls as the latter are dropped over the hat, the
centering of the curls being necessary as the aruis K being separate therefrom,
exercise no such influence over the curls, but serve simply to depress the same.
The curls J, J may be secured as shown in Figure 12, one end of each curls being
swivelled at p to pieces p, p hinged together at their outer ends p² clamp arms N
being pivotted to the opposite ends of the curls and held together by a sleeve N³
as shown.

page_text: The curls may be hollow in order to make them as light as possible, and I prefer
to cast the lower portion of each curl with a groove or recess and then solder or
braze to the top of the casting a thin metal cover J', as shown in Figure 13, thus
making the curl very light and convenient for the operator to handle.
The side pressing flanges care secured together by the front and back flanges c¹,
which as before described, have slots for the reception of screw bolts on said side
flanges, and the side flanges are attached to the heads B, B by bolts which pass
through openings in the heads and through open bottomed slots of in the side flange,
(see Figure 3) so that the entire set of pressing flanges can be taken from the
heads B, B, without taking the set apart.
The operation of the machine is as follows:-
When a certain sized hat is to be curled and set, the proper curls J, J, are first
clamped together and are then placed in the correct position upon the bag E.
The pressing Hanges are then moved to the positions shown in Figure 3, and
water, air or other fluid is admitted to the bag E until the latter is filled, and con-
forms to the shape of the underside of the curls J, the supply of fluid to and the
escape of fluid from the bag being then cut off by closing the stop cock e¹, where-
upon the flanges are retracted and the curls released.
A hat having its brim portion softened and rendered flexible by heat or otherwise,
is then placed over the block I, and the curls J placed in position on the brim, as
shown in Figure 4, and subjected to pressure. As all escape of fluid from the
bag E is cut off, said bag, when the brim is pressed downwards by the curls, must
necessarily conform to the shape of the under surfaces of the curls and present a solid
backing for the brim of the hat.
The pressing flanges c, c', are then forced partly over the curls by the operation
of the lever C, so as to draw the brim closely against the curls and the depressing
levers K, K, are, then raised and the inward movement of the pressing flanges com-
pleted, as shown in Figure 5, so as to iron or flatten the curled edges of the brim.
It will be noticed that the under side of the brim which constitutes the roll of the
hat, is formed by the pressure of the fluid-filled bag, this pressure being exerted
first at the inner portion of the roll next the crown and then extending gradually to
the outer portion of the roll, so as to press the edges of the brim up into the path of
the side pressing flanges a, by the inward movement of which the curling of the
brim is effected; so that a smoothly finished roll and a very sharp and even curl
of the brim is insured.
Not only is the action of the fluid-filled bag or flexible under-die more effective than
that of the usual solid die, but said flexible under-die is capable of use for every
sized hat which has to be made, thus dispensing with the use of a separate under-dio
or dish for each size of hat.
The upper shell of the die is preferably thickened at and near the inner portion,
as shown in Figures 18 and 19, so that it will possess a greater degree of flexibility
at the outer portion of the roll of the brim than at the inner portion of the same, the
necessary movement of the die, being greatest at said outer portion.
It is not necessary in carrying out my invention, that the dio should be made in
the form of a bag detachable from the dish of the machine, as said dish itself may
form a fluid receptacle and be provided with a flexible covering, as shown, for
instance, in Figures 20 and 21.
The die may be solid at the ends, if desired, as shown in Figure 22, these portions
of hat brims being generally of uniform dip, which is unaffected by the different
shapes of the curled portions of the brim, hence, in many cases, a lower die having its
side portions only flexible, will answer the purpose.
My invention inay also be carried out without the use of a fluid-filled die, as I may
also use a solid die of rubber or other material possessing such elasticity that it will.
conform to the shape of the upper curls when the hat brim is pressed down by the same
upon the lower die, (see Figures, 23 and 24).
It will be seen that although the trouble and expense of providing a number
of lower dies, one for each shape of hat brim,—is overcome. by my invention, the die

page_text: is as convenient as a solid die and does not necessitate any change in the working
parts of the machine.
I am aware that it has often been proposed to use, and that numerous patents have
been granted which illustrate and describe the use of, flexible pressers in hat pressing
machines, the presser being sometimes solid and elastic, sometimes in the form of
boxes which are provided with rubber or like flexible diaphragms, for acting on the
hat, and which receive water or other fluid from a pump or reservoir under pressure,
to distend the diaphragms, and sometimes in the form of boxes having rubber diaphragms
and containing a confined volume of air or water, or a granular mass which will
conform to the desired shape, the elastic or flexible bag pressers having been proposed
both for pressing hat crowns and brims.
The usual flexible bag presser, however, when employed for forming the brim of
the hat, has a diaphragm larger than said brim, and this diaphragm is caused by the
presser to overlap the edges of the upper dies, and thus form not only the roll, but
the curl of the brim as well.
I find that it is much preferable to use a flexible die of limited size, the upper
surface of which, before the pressing operation, conforms to the general shape of the
brim with its dip and roll, and during the pressing operation acts only upon the
underside of the brim, so as to press the same against the adjacent faces of the upper
curls reliance being placed upon the pressing flanges to cause the inward bending or
curling of the edge of the brim, as a much more effective means for the purpose than
would be afforded by a flexible presser.
The only expensive pieces in my improved machine, are the curls, and economy in the
manufacture of these may be attained by making one pattern for a certain style and
obtaining different sizes of castings by successive shrinkages, thus the casting from
the pattern will, owing to shrinkage, be less than said pattern, a second casting
obtained by using the first casting as a pattern, will be less than said first casting, a
third casting made from the second will be still less, and so on.
The construction of the curls shown in Figures 8, 9, 12 and 13 is much simpler
than that shown in Kelsey's patents. In the Kelsey machine, the curls are secured to
an inner ring, and accurate fitting is required, as well as care in attaching the ring
to the swinging arms shewn in that patent.
The upper are of the curls which I use is a fixed one, being less by the thickness of
the felt of the hat than the arc of the side clamps c. The inner opening or oval
accords in size and shape with the size and shape of the hat to be acted upon, and the
outer oval edge and the shape of the underside can be readily obtained from a
model hat.
While in some instances an inner ring for the curls is of great convenience in taking
the curls from a hat brim after it has been shaped and set, I find but little difficulty
in removing the sections shown in Figures 8 and 9.
In place of the bag E the dish D may be used as the receptacle for fluid by
providing it with a flexible cover S, as shown in Figure 11, said cover being secured
to the flanges of the dish in any suitable manner, as for instance, by rivetting,
cementing or clamping.
When the cover is attached directly to the dish, as shown in Figure 10, I prefer
to form the said cover as shown in Figure 14, that is to say, thick at the portion
and gradually diminishing in thickness to the portion, so that it will conform
more readily to the shape of curls J; in fact the cloth or rubber sheet G may
be likewise shaped when the bag E is used, or the upper side of the bag itself
may be used in this way when the use of a cloth or rubber sheet G is dispensed with.
In some cases I prefer to use an oval disk H placed beneath the rubber or
cloth sheet G and above .the bag E forming a set plate, this disk having at front
and rear, projections conforming to the dip of the curls J, so that it is adapted
to support any sized hat.
These projections serve to relieve the front and back portions of the bag from
part of the pressure, and although their use is preferable, it is not essential, as I
have curled hats perfectly without it.

page_text: In Figure 16 I have shown the dish D made in two paris, the dish proper being
secured to the base plate A of the machine and the centre portion D₁ adapted
to be raised or lowered by the screw d'independently of the outer portion of the
dish D by this means the machine can be readily adapted for forming any desired
depth of curl.
It should be understood that the terms "lower" and "upper" are used in this
specification as applying to those parts which act respectively upon the upper and
underside of the brim of the hat, and not as indicating the necessary location
of the parts in the machine, for it will be evident that my invention is applicablo
to a machine in which the location of the parts is the reverse of that shown, that
is to say, in which the fluid filled die is above, and the curls beneath, or in which
the parts are otherwise disposed in a manner different from that shown in the
drawing.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. The combination, in a hat briun curling machine, of upper curls, a lower die
consisting of a flexible fluid-filled casing, and a flexible sheet covering the said
lower die all substantially as hereinbefore specified.
2. The combination, in a hat brim curling machine, of the upper curls, the
lower flexible and fluid filled die, and a set plate having a bearing on the under-
side of the hat brim at the front and rear of the hat, all substantially as hereinbefore
specified.
3. The combination of the upper curls made in sections with securing clamps,
substantially as hereinbefore specified.
4. The combination in a hat brim curling machine, of side and end pressing
flanges secured together so as to constitute one structure, operating heads for the
said flanges, and securing bolts adapted to open ended slots, 30 as to permit
the removal of the flange structure as a unit, all substantially as hereinbefore specified.
5. The combination in a hat brim curling machine, of upper curis, with a pressure
free from connection with the curls, but bearing upon the latter to depress the same,
all substantially as hereinbefore specified.
6. The combination, in a hat brim curling machine of upper curls, with a presser
free from connection with the curls and having adjustable pins for bearing on the said
curls all substantially as herein before specified.
7. The combination, in a hat brim curling machine, of the upper curls, with a
presser having adjustable plates carrying pins for bearing on the curls, substantially
as hereinbefore specified.
8. The combination, in a hat brim curling machine, of the hat block, the lower
die, and upper curls conforming to and centered by the said hat block and separate
from the pressure imparting devices, all substantially as hereinbefore specified.
9. The combination, in a hat brim curling machine, of the end pressing flanges
having guides thereon, with upper curls made in sections, and clamping levers for the
said curls having arms adapted to the guides on the flanges, all substantially as herein-
before specified.
10. The combination, in a hat brim curling machine, of upper curls consisting
of sections clamped together, a presser acting thereon, but disconnected therefrom,
pressing flanges, and a lower die, all substantially as hereinbefore specified.
11. The hereinbefore described dish for a hat brim curling machine, said dish
comprising the fixed outer portion and adjustable centre portion, substantially as
herein before specified.
12. The combination of the detached upper curls of a hat brim curling machine and
lower die and hat block with guides to assist in centering the said detached curls,
substantially as herein before described.
13. The hereinbefore described die for a hat brim curling machine, said die having

page_text: an upper surface conforming to the general shape of the brim with its dip and roll
and constructed to act upon the underside of the brim only, that portion of the die
which acts upon the roll of the brim being flexible, all substantially as hereinbefore
specified.
14. The hereinbefore described die for a hat brim curling machine the said die
having an upper surface flexible throughout and conforming to the general shape of
the brim with its dip and roll the said upper surface being such as to act upon
the underside of the brim only in pressing, all substantially as hereinbefore
specified.
15. The herein before described die for a hat brim curling machine the said die
having an upper surface conforming to the general shape of the brim with its dip and
roll, the roll portions of the die being hollow and filled with fluid, all substantially as
herein before specified.
16. The herein before described die for a hat brim curling machine the said die
consisting of a casing hollow and fluid filled throughout and having a flexible upper
surface which conforius to the general shape of the brim of the hat, all substantially
as hereinbefore specified.
17. The hereinbefore described die for a hat brim curling machine the said die
constituting a unitary and self contained structure independent of and detachable
from, the machine, and having a flexible upper surface conforming to the general
shape of the brim of the hat, all substantially as hereinbefore specified.
18. The hereinbefore described die for a hat brim curling machine the said die
consisting of a flexible fluid filled casing, constituting a unitary and self contained
structure independent of and detachable from the machine, all substantially as herein-
before specified.
19. The hereinbefore described die for a hat brim curling machine, the said die
conforming to the general shape of the bat brim, having a central opening for
receiving a projecting portion of the dish of the machine, and possessing such flexibility
that it will adapt itself to the shape of the curls, when subjected to pressure, all
substantially as hereinbefore specified.
20. The herein before described die for a hat brim curling machine, the said die
consisting of a flexible fluid filled casing that portion of the latter which acts upon
the hat varying in thickness, so as to vary in flexibility in different parts, all substan-
tially as hereinbefore specified.
21. The combination, in a hat brim curling machine, of a dish having a recessed
face, with a lower die adapted to the said recessed face of the dish; and possessing
such flexibility that it will adapt itself to the shape of the curls when subjected to the
pressure of the same, all substantially as hereinbefore specified.
22. The combination in a hat brimn curling machine, of the upper curls, the side
pressing flanges, and a lower flexible die for acting on the brim of the hat, all
substantially as hereinbefore specified.
23. The combination in a hat brim curling machine, of the upper curls, the side
and end pressing flanges, and the lower flexible die for acting on the brim of the hat,
all substantially as hereinbefore specified.
24. The herein before described bottom board or lower die for a hat brim curling
machine, said die having a flexible portion for acting upon the underside
of the brim, and a central rigid portion, all substantially as hereinbefore specified.
Dated this 28th day of December 1888
J. H. JOHNSON & Co.,
47, Lincoln's Inn Fields, London, W.C.,
Agents.