Improvements in the Manufacture of Proofed or Stiffened Felt Hats and similar Articles, and in Apparatus to be used therefor.
Year: 1893

page_text: Date of Application, 19th Aug., 1893
Complete Specification Left, 24th Feb., 1894-Accepted, 7th Apr., 1894
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Proofed or Stiffened Felt Hats
and similar Articles, and in Apparatus to be used therefor.
We GEORGE WORSLEY Junior and JOSEPH BRELSFORD both of Cropgate
Works, Audenshaw, near Manchester in the County of Lancaster Hat Manufac-
turers do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
Our invention relates to the finishing of proofed or stiffened felt hats or other
similar head coverings at a different stage of the manufacture and to an
improved method whereby we secure a better quality of finish than heretofore with
greater economy.
In the first place we prepare the face of the felt by pressing the proofed or stiffened
hood or body whilst in its ordinary conical form into a conical metal mould or dish
by hydraulic or other pressure, whereby the surface of the felt is smoothed and may
be operated upon by means of a card or by sandpaper, or other finishing material
with the greatest safety.
Secondly this finishing, operation having cleared the surface of the body from
much coarse fibre and proofing matter entangled in the surface fibres, leaves a soft
velvety nap for the dyeing (which is usually the next process) and the body thus
requires less time and material in the dye bath, and a finer feeling felt and better
appearance will thus be obtained.
Thirdly when "veneering
is performed the felt thus prepared presents a
more suitable surface for the veneer and less fur can be used to obtain the same
fineness of quality.
This invention also enables lathes to be used for finishing at a much higher speed
than they could be used under the same process and the operator can therefore finish
an increased quantity of hat bodies within a given time, and of better quality with
considerably less risk of damage.
The usual method adopted in the hatting trade is to perform the operation of
finishing after the hood has been dyed and blocked into the oval hat shape with
sharp curves and great skill and care are required in the operator to avoid damage,
and most of the work has to be performed by skilled manual labour, whilst according
to our invention the finishing is performed whilst the hat is in a circular conical
form and before it is blocked into shape.
We are aware that in some cases the body has been sandpapered before proofing
whilst in its soft condition, but in no case has the body been finished in the manner
above described and whilst it is in its original conical circular form.
Dated this 18th day of August 1893.
GEO. DAVIES & SON,
4, St. Ann's Square, Manchester, Agents for the Applicants.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Proofed or Stiffened Felt Hats
and similar Articles, and in Apparatus to be used therefor.
We GEORGE WORSLEY Junior and JOSEPH BRELSFORD both of Crossgate
Works Audenshaw, near Manchester, in the County of Lancaster, Hat Manufac
turers, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is
to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement :-
This invention relates to the finishing of proofed or stiffened felt hats and what is

page_text: termed in the trade half stiffened or semi-proofed hats or other similar head
coverings at a different stage of the manufacture, and to an improved method
whereby we secure a better quality of finish than heretofore with greater economy.
The nature of our said invention and the manner in which the same is to be
performed or carried into practical effect will be readily understood on reference to
the drawing hereunto annexed and the following explanation thereof. Fig. 1 being
a section and Fig. 2 a plan view.
In the first place we prepare the face of the felt by pressing the proofed or
stiffened hood or body whilst in its ordinary conical form (before or after dyeing)
into a conical metal mould or dish of circular form by hydraulic or other pressure,
whereby the surface of the felt is made round and smooth and may be operated upon
by means of a card, or by sand-paper, or other finishing material with the greatest
safety.
a (Fig. 1) on the annexed drawing represents a section of the improved metal
mould or dish which we employ for this purpose, the hood or hat body being
shown by the black line´b and Fig. 2 is a plan view showing the circular form of
the dish.
Secondly this finishing operation having cleared the surface of the body from
much coarse fibre and proofing matter entangled in the surface fibres, leaves a soft
velvety nap for the dyeing (which is usually the next process) and the body thus
requires less time and material in the dye bath, and a finer feeling felt and better
appearance is thus obtained; so that when finally blocked and pressed into
the ordinary oval hat shape, little more is required to be done beyond the velureing
process.
Thirdly where." veneering is performed the felt thus prepared presents a more
suitable surface for the veneer, and less fur can be used to obtain the same fineness
of quality.
This is an important feature of our invention as it effects a great improvement in
the manufacture of veneered hats.
This invention also enables lathes to be used for finishing at a much higher speed
than could be safely used under the ordinary process and the operator can therefore
finish an increased quantity of hat bodies within a given time, and of better quality,
with considerably less risk of damage.
"
The usual method adopted in the hatting trade is to perform the operation of
finishing after the hood has been dyed, blocked and pressed into the oval hat shape
with sharp and irregular curves, and great care and skill are required in the operator
to avoid damage and most of the work has to be performed by skilled manual labour,
whilst according to our invention the finishing is performed whilst the hat is in a
circular conical form and before it is blocked into shape.
We are aware that in some cases the body has been sandpapered before proofing
whilst in its soft condition, but in no case has the body been finished in the manner
above described and whilst it is in its original conical circular form.
In conjunction with what has already been set forth we propose to use a special
lathe provided with an inverted hollow cone to enable the inside of the body or hood
to be finished by card, sandpaper or other suitable material.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what we
claim is :-
:-
First. The improved process of finishing stiffened or half stiffened hat bodies of
hoods in a circular conical form, before blocking them into the ordinary oval
shape, substantially in the manner and for the purposes herein before set forth.
Secondly. The improvements in the process of manufacturing proofed or stiffened
felt hats consisting in first pressing the stiffened or half-stiffened hat body in a
circular conical form, and then surfacing or finishing them in a suitable lathe, or by
equivalent means, and then veneering and blocking and otherwise completing the
manufacture of the hat in the usual manner.

page_text: Thirdly. A conical metal hat dish or mould of circular horizontal section formed
as represented on the annexed drawing, so as to be used in the finishing of hat bodies.
substantially as described.
Fourthly. The use of a conical metal hat-dish or mould so formed as above
described in combination with hydraulic or other pressure by means of a conical or
other bag, for the pressing of stiffened or half-stiffened hat bodies or hoods.
(preferably before dyeing) for the purpose of producing a round, smooth, and even
surface for the operation of finishing, thus enabling the finishing .operation to be
performed on quick-running lathes, and by this means increasing the quantity
of production, improving the quality, and reducing the cost.
Dated the 23rd day of February 1894.
GEO. DAVIES & SON,
4, St. Ann's Square, Manchester, Agents for the Applicants.