Improvements in Coats and other Garments, especially suitable for Shooting, Golfing, Fishing, and Athletic Purposes generally.
Year: 1891

page_text: Date of Application, 7th Apr., 1891
Complete Specification Left, 22nd Dec., 1891-Accepted, 23rd Jan., 1892
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Coats and other Garments, especially suitable for
Shooting, Golfing, Fishing, and Athletic Purposes generally.
I, THOMAS HOGG of 17 Arthur Street, Belfast, Co. Antrim Ireland, Clothier,
do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to an improved construction or arrangement of the
parts of Norfolk jackets and other coats and garments the object in view being
to afford increased freedom, and I will describe the invention as applied to a
Norfolk jacket.
So far as this invention applies to the sleeve of a coat the sleeve may be
cut and applied much as usual excepting that the particular part to which
freedom is to be imparted say particularly the part immediately under the
shoulder of the wearer is not fastened to the body of the coat but is left free.
a loose gusset or extension of the sleeve passing inside the garment between the
outer material and the lining so as to make a sufficient junction and close the
opening. To prevent this gusset or extension from pulling out of its proper
position and thus causing an opening in the coat one or more pieces of elastic
or other material preferably elastic may be inserted. By this arrangement that
portion of the body of the coat may be said to consist of two parts the exterior
cloth and the interior lining and between these enters the gusset or extension of
the sleeve so that the coat presents the usual appearance while affording the wearer
greatly increased freedom to the arms.
In applying this invention to the back portion of the garment a curved slit or
opening is provided in the material of which the garment is made at each side of
the back in a suitable position to accommodate the movement of the shoulder
blades such slits or openings being covered or protected, in the case of a Norfolk
jacket, by the usual back straps, or where such straps are not employed by any
suitable device which may if desired be included in the ornamentation of the
garment. In the case of a Norfolk jacket the back strap or vertical band may be
secured on the garment in the usual place in the usual manner excepting that at
the part over the slit the band is made double (it may also be double all the way if
desired) and the inner fold is sewn or secured to the cloth at one side of the slit
the other side of the band, which at such other side may be single or double, being
secured to the garment at the other side of the slit. The inner portions of the two
slits are then connected by one or more strips or pieces of resilient material say for
convenience elastic bands. By this means very great additional flexibility and
ease are imparted without altering the appearance of the garment.
It will be understood that while I have indicated two of the most important
parts of the garment to which this invention may be applied I do not confine
myself to those two parts only but may apply the invention wherever it is
needed.
This invention as will be understood is not restricted to any particular make
of garment and may be applied equally to ladies' or gentlemen's clothing though
it has been especially designed for Norfolk and other jackets or coats which are
used for golf, shooting and other similar exercises.
Dated this 7th day of April 1891.
W. P. THOMPSON & BOULT,
Agents for the Applicant.

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Coats and other Garments, especially suitable for
Shooting, Golfing, Fishing, and Athletic Purposes generally.
I, THOMAS HOGG, late of No. 17, Arthur Street, Belfast in the County of
Antrim, Ireland, but now of No. 15, Hanover Street, W. in the County of London,
England, Clothier, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement :--
My invention relates to improvements in coats and other garments especially
suitable for shooting, golfing, fishing, and athletic purposes generally and its
object is to impart elasticity to those parts of any garment which may be subjected,
by the motions of the relative limbs or muscles, to more than the ordinary strain,
so that the wearer may enjoy greater freedom without it being necessary to cut the
garment so loose as to mar its fit.
The invention consists, in its broadest sense, of the combination with the garment,
along the line where the elasticity is required, of a concealed gusset and an elastic
returning device.
It is more particularly applicable to an athlete's costume, inasmuch as he wants
more freedom for the action of his limbs than would, for instance, the wearer of a
dress coat, and have therefore chosen a Norfolk jacket for the purpose of illus-
trating the nature of the invention and how it is to be carried into effect, although
it is to be distinctly understood that the invention is not confined to the garment
illustrated, but may be applied, according to the method explained, to any, article
of clothing for either sex in which its advantages are desirable.
Fig. 1 is a side view.
Fig. 2 is an inside view of an extended jacket. A part of the lining has been
omitted to shew more clearly the essential features of the invention.
Fig. 3 is a section taken on the line a-b of Fig. 2.
Fig. 4 is a section taken on the line c-d of Fig. 1.
In a jacket or coat of any model, the parts in which a self-adjusting elasticity
i.e., one that will readily yield to and afterwards follow the actions of the muscles
and limbs, is required, are under the arms and across the back in the neighbour-
hood of the shoulder blades. My invention is applicable to both these positions,
but if desirable it may be confined to only one of them, i.e., to either the sleeves
or the back.
Referring to the accompanying figures, e is the sleeve. It is sewn to the body
of the garment along the top of the arin hole from toy only. The remaining
edge of the armhole, about one half thereof, is not sewn to the sleeve direct, but
the connection is made by means of a gusset. This latter I prefer to make in the
case of a lined garment of two halves, and, the former being of the same
material as the garment and the latter of the same material as the lining. The
lining proper,, is likewise sewn to the arm hole only along the top thereof, i.e.,
from 9 to, the remaining portion of the edge of the said lining being connected
with the gusset through a second half gusset i¹ which is sewn along one of its edges
to the said remaining portion, and along its opposite edge to the adjacent edge of
the two halves and i. k, k, k, are elastic bands: They are made fast by
their outer ends to the garment at conveniently divergent points, and by their
opposite ends to the adjacent edge of the half h. is a further clastic band
connecting the gussets of the two arm holes. Instead of using one band connecting
the two gussets as illustrated there may be one from each gusset to the opposite
side of that arc shaped slit (hereinafter described) which is nearest to the opposite
sleeve.
The action of my invention when applied to the arm holes in the way above
described is as follows. So long as the arm is not raised or swung as it would

page_text: be at cricket or golf, the gusset attachment is kept invisible by the action of
the elastic bands, but when the arm has to be swung, as when striking, then
the gusset is pulled out, to be however drawn back by the elastic bands as
soon as the arm is returned. The amount of extra freedom or looseness which
my invention imparts to a garment under the arm is the width of the gusset,
and this advantage is secured without marring the appearance or the fit of the
parts.
The method of applying the invention to the back of the garment is sub-
stantially the same as that of applying it to the arm holes, and will be clearly
understood from Figs. 2 and 4. m, m are two curved or arc shaped slits, and
n, n are their respective gussets. o, o are the elastic bands. Both gussets and
bands are connected to the garment in the same way as described above with
reference to the sleeve gussets and bands. The slits m, m', and gussets n, n',
may be concealed from view by setting them behind the back straps p. Or the
usual ornamentation or any other suitable device may be adopted to effect the same
purpose.
I do not confine myself to using elastic bands in exactly the manner in which
they are shewn in the figures, but may apply any clastic devices capable of
discharging the functions described with reference to the said bands.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is:
1. The combination of garment, gussets, and elastic returning devices, as and for
the purpose set forth.
2. The combination of garment, slits in the back, and returning devices as and for
the purpose set forth.
3. The combination of garment, gussets, slits in the back, and elastic returning
devices, as and for the purpose set forth.
Dated this 22nd day of December 1891.
PHILLIPS & LEIGH,
No. 22, Southampton Buildings, Chancery Lane, W.C.,
Agents for the Applicant.
PHILLIPS & LEIGH,
No. 22, Southampton Buildings, Chancery Lane, W.C.,
Agents for the Applicant.