A NEW OR IMPROVED MODE OF ORNAMENTING FIGURED MUSLIN AND GAUZE FABRICS
Year: 1869

page_text: PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by Alexander Melville Clark at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
8th December 1869.-A communication from abroad by Adolphe
Teissonnière, of 13, Boulevart St. Martin, Paris, Merchant.
I, ALEXANDER MELVILLE CLARK, of 53, Chancery Lane, in the
County of Middlesex, Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature of
the said Invention for "A NEW OR IMPROVED MODE OF ORNAMENTING FIGURED
MUSLIN AND GAUZE FABRICS," to be as follows:-
This Invention relates to the production of a novel article consisting
of figured gauze or muslin with designs in colors to resemble chintz.
The muslin or gauze I prefer to use for this purpose is that of which
curtains are usually made, for which purpose the ornamental fabric of
this Invention is more particularly applicable. The flowered or other
design is rendered apparent by the transparent nature of the fabric, that
is to say, by the figuring formed by the arrangement of the threads,
which are more or less close together with varying spaces between them,
the design when the article is viewed as a transparent medium being
represented in light and shade in whole tints and half tints. The color
to be applied on the design is not intended to produce a polychrome
design by the superposition of colors of different tints on a close figured

page_text: surface such as in ordinary modes of printing muslins. I apply the
colors on the figuring or design only of the fabric, that is to say,
supposing I wish to color the representation of a bouquet of roses I
apply on the flowers a single rose tint and on the leaves a single green
tint. This being done the article with the colors applied on the design
when viewed as a transparent medium by reason of the varying closeness
and intervals of the threads composing the design presents different
shades of color from deep to pale green and rose tints. In order to
enhance the richness of the coloring I may however repeat the
application of colors several times if desired. I would however repeat
that the effect is not produced by the application of colors on a close
figured surface, but that by the aid of the figuring the colors will present
graduated tints when the article is viewed as a transparent medium,
although but one tint be applied. I desire that this distinction should
be drawn as I am aware that figured gauze and muslin fabrics have been
printed in colors applied on a plain ground irrespective of the figuring;
2ndly, that multi-colored designs flowered or otherwise have been printed
on figured muslins entirely irrespective of the pattern partly thereon and
partly on the ground; 3rdly, gauze and muslin fabrics have been
produced with figured designs indicated in outline on which designs in
one or more colors are printed, such as printed cambrics for example.
From the foregoing it will be readily understood that the Invention
consists in the application of one or more colors on the figured design
which in the first place limits its extent, and 2ndly, determines the
opacity of the tints when viewed as a transparent medium, this being
.entirely different to what is obtained by the application of colors in the
usual way on gauze and muslin fabrics, the effect of the design in the
latter case being dependent on the pattern and not on the graduated
tints produced by the greater or less closeness of the figuring.
In carrying out the improvements I take a figured gauze or muslin
fabric, and apply one or more colors on the figuring without touching
the plain white ground either by hand, by means of a brush, or by the
ordinary means employed for printing cotton fabrics. For this purpose
I first copy the design or figuring and make an engraving therefrom in
such manner that the reliefs will correspond to the design to be colored.
The mode of printing is as above mentioned the same as that adopted for
printing on cotton fabrics including muslins either by hand or machine.
The engraved block or surface whatsoever is then applied on the fabric

page_text: so that the reliefs will exactly correspond with the figured design to be
colored. The colors employed for the purpose and the means of fixing
the same are also such as are in ordinary use for a similar purpose, the
successive treatments are also the same. It is not absolutely requisite
that the color be confined strictly to the threads forming the design, as
being partially absorbed thereby the color will possess greater intensity
than if on the open ground work of the fabric through which the light
freely passes, hence should the adjacent surfaces be accidentally impreg-
nated with the coloring it will not be plainly perceptible when viewed
as a transparent medium and will not mar the effect of the color
absorbed by the opaque threads of the figuring.
The following is a practical mode of producing the novel article of this
Invention:-I take the figured muslin or gauze fabric to be colored, and
bleach and stiffen the same until sufficiently firm. I then make two
copies of the design, from one of which an engraving is made adapted to
the number of colors to be applied. The other copy of the design is
placed on the printing table, and the fabric then fixed thereon by means
of pins, the design and paper copy being made to exactly correspond.
This being done I remove the paper design from one end and commence
the successive operations usual in printing from blocks. I may also in
lieu of the above mode apply the colors used in block printing with a
brush, it being understood that I reserve the right of applying the colors
by any suitable means on open figured fabrics, such as the gauze and
muslin used more especially for window and other curtains in the
particular manner and for producing the effect herein-before described.