CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN APPARATUS FOR WEAVING RIBBED' CLOTH AND BANDS OF 'CHENILLE
Year: 1856

page_text: LETTERS PATENT TO Sylvester
.
Siener, or
ouncy
of York, Merchant, for the Invention of "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN
APPARATUS FOR WEAVING RIBBED' CLOTH AND BANDS OF 'CHENILLE.''
A communication.
Sealed the 15th August 1856, and dated the 19th February 1856.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Sylvester Emil Sichel
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
19th February 1856.
I, SYLVESTER EMIL SICHEL, of Bradford, in the County of York, Merchant,
do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention, (as communicated to
me), for "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN APPARATUS FOR WEAVING RIBBED' CLOTH
AND BANDS OF CHENILLE"" to be as follows:-
These improvements apply to weaving such textile goods or fabrics usually
called "ribs " or ribbed cloth, and also to weaving bands of "chenille,"
to be used either for the manufacture of "chenille" carpets or for other
purposes.
First, in weaving ribbed cloth, this Invention relates to a novel disposition
of the "healds," whereby I am enabled to simplify to a great extent the
working of the loom, and considerably to prevent the wear of the same, and

page_text: also to diminish the number of "healds" and prevent the unnecessary twisting
of the warps.
In the ordinary looms used for weaving the kind of fabric called "ribs," or
ribbed cloth, two warps are used; one, which I term the "standing or stationary
warp," (and which may be of common material, such as linen or cotton), and
which serves as the back warp; the other, called "binder warp," is of better
material, such as worsted or silk, which covers the first warp, and serves also
to tie or bind it to the weft, which is also of coarse material.
In this improved apparatus for weaving, the stationary warp does not
"shed" but remains in its place, and the "binder" warp, in passing over the
stationary warp, first from left to right, and then from right to left, is tied each
time by the weft, forming a kind of ribbed fabric, which, when subsequently
printed, presents a similar appearance to tapestry.
In the ordinary apparatus for weaving such fabric five healds are employed,
which is a complicated arrangement, causing much friction and wear of the
healds; the warps also are twisted in two places, first, behind the healds, and.
secondly, before the reed, this last twisting of the warps being the only one
necessary to obtain the desired result..
In this improved apparatus only one heald is employed, made in three parts,
which I term semi-healds, and so arranged that the binder warp passes
through an eye in the lower semi-heald, which is tied below to a treadle; this.
semi-heald is attached at its upper part by two semi-healds (one of which
embraces the stationary warp) to two independent levers, moved by two distinct
treadles; when one lever rises, the "binder" warp is lifted by one semi-heald
along one side of the stationary warp; when the other lever rises, its corre-
sponding semi-heald lifts the "binder" warp along the other side of the
"stationary" warp, and so on, the weft being thrown in after each upward and
cross-over movement of the covering or "binder" warp:
Secondly, the improvements in apparatus for weaving bands of "chenille,"
consists of a similar disposal of the healds; but in weaving chenille," the
stationary" " and "binder" warps are arranged in groups or series of the
required number, say, from three to six of each warp, more or less, and placed
at an interval apart corresponding with the height of the "chenille" to be
produced both warps may be of cotton (or common material) and the weft of
silk or woollen.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Sylvester Emil Sichel in the Great Seal Patent Office
on the 19th August 1856.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, SYLVESTER
EMIL SICHEL, of Bradford, in the County of York, Merchant, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Nineteenth day of February, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-six, in the nineteenth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the
said Sylvester Emil Sichel, Her especial licence that I, the said Sylvester
Emil Sichel, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as
I, the said Sylvester Emil Sichél, my executors, administrators, and assigns,
should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and
at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and law
fully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of
Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an In-
vention for "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN APPARATUS FOR WEAVING RIBBED CLOTH
AND BANDS OF CHENILLE,' which has been communicated to me by a foreigner
residing abroad, upon the condition, amongst others, that I, the said Sylvester
Emil Sichel, by an instrument in writing under my hand and seal, should
particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in
what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed
in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and
immediately after the date of the Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Sylvester Emil Sichel, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is tö
be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement and accompanying Drawings (that is to say):-
These improvements apply to weaving such textile goods or fabrics usually
called "ribs" or ribbed cloth, and also to weaving bands of chenille,
to be used either for the manufacture of chenille carpets or for other
purposes.
:
First, in weaving ribbed cloth, this Invention relates to a novel disposition
of the "healds," whereby I am enabled to simplify to a great extent the
working of the "loom," and considerably to prevent the wear of the same,
and also to diminish the number of "healds" and prevent the unnecessary.
twisting of the warps.

page_text: "
In the ordinary looms used for weaving the kind of fabric called "ribs
or ribbed cloth, two warps are used; one, which I term the "standing or
stationary warp" (and which may be of common material, such as linen
or cotton,) and which serves as the back warp; the other, called "binder
warp," is of better materials, such as worsted or silk, which covers the first
warp, and serves also to tie or bind it to the weft, which is also of coarse
material.
In this improved apparatus for weaving, the stationary warp does not
"shed" but remains in its place, and the binder warp, in passing over the
"stationary" warp, first from left to right and then from right to left, is tied
each time by the weft, forming a kind of ribbed fabric, which when subse-
quently printed presents a similar appearance to tapestry.
In the ordinary apparatus for weaving such fabric five healds are employed,
which is a complicated arrangement, causing much friction and wear of the
healds; the warps also are twisted in two places, first, behind the healds, and
secondly, before the reed; this last twisting of the warps being the only one
necessary to obtain the desired result.
In this improved arrangement only one heald is employed, made in three
parts, which I term semi-healds, and so arranged that the binder warp passes
through an eye in the lower or semi-heald, which is tied below to a treddle; this
semi-heald is attached at its upper part by two semi-healds (one of which
embraces the stationary warp) to two independent levers, moved by two
distinct treddles; when one lever rises, the "binder warp" is lifted by one
semi-heald along one side of the stationary warp; when the other lever
rises, its corresponding semi-heald lifts the binder warp along the other side
of the stationary warp, and so on, the weft being thrown in after each
upward and cross-over movement of the covering or binder warp.
Secondly, the improvements in apparatus for weaving bands of chenille
consists of a similar disposal of the healds; but in weaving "chenille," the
stationary and binder warps are arranged in groups or series of the required
number, say, from three to six of each warp, more or less, and placed at an
interval apart corresponding with the height of the "chenille "to be produced;
both warps may be of cotton (or common material) and the weft silk or
woollen. But in order that this Invention may be better understood I shall
proceed to explain the same in detail, reference being had to the accompanying
Drawings, in which the same letters of reference are applied to the same
parts.
Fig. 1 is an elevation, in section, of so much of an ordinary loom as will

page_text: serve to explain this Invention. I will observe that I have not thought it
necessary to shew the several parts, such as framing levers, treadles, &c.,
which constitute the loom, as they form no portion of this Invention, and can
be easily supplied by a person skilled in this branch of industry. This figure
shows the binder warp raised to the left of the stationary warp; all the
indications of right and left are taken from the place which the workman
occupies in front of his loom. Fig. 2 is a similar view, the binder warp
having been depressed (but still on the left side of the stationary warp,) after
the shuttle has deposited the weft; Fig. 3 is also a similar view, the binder
warp having risen to the right of the stationary warp. These three Figures
correspond to the three different operations of the loom for completing the
fabric. A is a "stationary" or standing warp, of cotton or other common
material, it is indicated by blue lines in the Drawing; B is the binder warp,
of woollen, silk, or other better material, which is to show on the outside of
the fabric, it is indicated by red lines in the Drawing. C, D, are the two half
or semi-healds in string, both tied to the inferior semi-heald of metal E, F ;
this semi-heald may be also of string, but I prefer it to be of metal to prevent
friction. G is the reed. It is observed that when weaving this kind of fabric
there are two threads between each dent of the reed, one stationary warp
thread and one binder warp thread. H is the batten, which may be pro-
vided with a knife or cutter I; but this cutter is to be taken away when
weaving the fabric now supposed to be in operation. This knife (when
employed) is used only to cut the weft for chenille, as will be hereafter
explained. J is the cloth beam; K, the stationary or standing warp beam; and
L, the binder warp beam. The loom is provided with three treadles, connected
to the three semi-healds by strings and levers in the ordinary well-known
manner. The first treadle (beginning at the left) is connected to the inferior
semi-heald E, F, the second to the semi-heald D, and the third to the semi-
heald C. In order to prevent confusion, I shall suppose the treadles (not
shown) to bear the same letters of reference as the semi-healds to which they
are connected. In Fig. 1, I suppose that the workman has sunk treadle D
to lift the binder warp to the left of the stationary warp, then the weft is
thrown in and the batten beaten up. The workman afterwards sinks treadle
E, F, to bring the binder warp under the stationary warp, the two treadles and
semi-healds C and D being at liberty to follow this downward motion. The
binder warp now being below the stationary or standing warp, see Fig. 2,
and to the left of this latter, it is necessary to lift said binder warp up to the
right or opposite side of the stationary warp, see Fig 3. The workman ceases

page_text: .
to act on the first treadle, which maintains E; F; down, and sinks treadle C
which lifts the semi-heald C and the binder warp to the right of the stationary
warp; the weft is thrown back, the batten beaten up, and then the binder warp
is again brought down by E, F, and lifted by D, operation's which bring all
the parts back to the position of Fig. 1. When it is desired with this loom
to weave either looped or cut pile fabrics, such as velvets, Brussels or velvet
pile carpets or tapestry, I form the looped surface by causing the binder warp
to be looped over a series of terry wires, which may be made either with plain
ends when a terry of uncut loop is required, as in Brussels carpet or terry
velvet, or with a contrivance at the end for receiving the cutting edges of a
series of knives or other suitable instruments, if a cut pile fabric. is intended
to be produced. The binder warp may be stained or printed in this case, as
in the preceding one before weaving, so as to produce, when woven, a fabric
ornamented with various désigns and colors, or else the fabric woven plain
may be printed or stained afterwards: Between each series of warp threads
may be adapted the cutter or knife I'in such a way, that as the battén beats
up, the knives will cut or sever each band of chenille as they are niade, the
cutting, operation being performed at the same time as the chenille is
manufactured, such operations having liitherto been performed by hand.
The bands of "chenille" may afterwards be used for manufacturing carpets in
the ordinary well-known manner, which it is useless to describe, as it formis no
part of this Invention. Instead of the above form of knife many contrivances
may be adopted, for instance, circular discs or cutters may be employed, &c.
By this arrangement of loom, the bands of "chenille" as they are severed
contract immediately and. shut up, which is a great advantage for chenille
carpets.
Having now described the nature of the said Invention for weaving. ribbed
cloths and bands. of "chenille" (as communicated to me), and the best means
with which I am acquainted for putting the same into execution, I desire that
it should, be understood that I do not intend to limit myself to the precise
details described and represented, provided the substance or principle of this
Invention be retained; but that I claim,-
First, the novel disposition and peculiar arrangement of healds, or any mere
modification thereof, which enables me to dispense with the five healds hitherto
employed, and the application of the same to the manufacture of a fabric,
which may be either used in its plain state; or printed or stained with various
designs, or may have its binder warp threads printed and stained before.
weaving, so as to produce, when woven, various colors or designs on the fabric,

page_text: or may have its binder warp threads (either plain or stained or printed)
looped over terry wires, provided or not with cutting edges according to the
nature of the looped or cut-pile fabric to be manufactured.
Secondly, the application of such healds to the manufacturing of bands of
"chenille," whether combined or not with the cutting apparatus herein
described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Sylvester Emil Sichel, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, this Eighteenth day of August, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-six.
S. E. SICHEL. (L.S.)