Mechanism or Apparatus Used in such Manufacture.
Year: 1886

page_text: Date of Application, 13th Dec., 1886
Complete Left, 3rd Aug, 1887.
Complete Accepted, 11th Oct, 1887.
Mechanism or Apparatus Used in such Manufacture.
We THOMAS TAYLOR of the firm of Barlow and Jones Limited, of Bolton in the
County of Lancaster, Manufacturers and JACOB WARBURTON, of the same place
Designer, do hereby declare the nature of said Invention for IMPROVEMENTS IN THE
MANUFACTURE OF FIGURED FABRICS AND IN THE MECHANISM OR APPARATUS USED IN
SUCH MANUFACTURE to be as follows:-
Our invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of a certain class of
figured fabrics used principally for bed quilts, toilet covers, mats, quiltings and the like
and the object of our improvements is to produce such figured fabrics with a raised
fine figure upon a level fine ground.
We weave our improved fabric with two shuttles, one carrying a coarse weft for
the back and the filling of the figure and the other a fine weft for the face both of
the ground and figure and we employ two warps having an equal number of ends,
one the back warp is a coarse warp and is woven as tight as possible and the other
the face warp is woven sufficiently slack to allow a raised figure or pattern to be
formed.
In manufacturing our improved fabric we either use a separate Jacquard_machine
for each warp, or a special Jacquard machine constructed according to this Invention
that will control both warps from one and the same set of cards. This specially con-
structed Jacquard machine has three separate grifes consequently one needle governs
three hooks all sprung towards the cylinder of the Jacquard machine, one of these
three hooks faces the cylinder and is tied up to two face warp threads which are
drawn through separate cumber boards and knotted for pressing that is raising for
sheds. The other two hooks are turned away from the cylinder and are tied up to
two back warp threads one to each hook from separate back boards which are also
knotted for pressing. These four threads, i.e., two face and two back threads all work
in one space or dent of the reed end and end, that is one face end and one back end
alternately.

page_text: In cutting the cards for our special Jacquard machine we cut that part intended to be
the figure so that when the cylinder brings a card against the needles those hooks
which are turned toward the cylinder are pressed off their grife and those hooks
which are turned away from the cylinder are pressed on to their respective grifes by
the uncut portion of the card while those hooks which are turned towards the cylinder
are left standing on their grife and those hooks which are turned away from the
cylinder are left standing off their respective grifes by the cut portion of the card.
When weaving our improved fabric with four picks to a card the movement would
be as follows :—
First pick-This is a fine pick. No. 1 face board and No. 1 back grife rise. The
effect of this is to lift half of the face warp all across and half of the back warp in
the ground only.
Second pick-This is also a fine pick. No. 2 face board and No. 2 back grife rise-
The effect of this is to lift the opposite half of the face warp to the first pick and the
opposite half of the back warp in the ground only.
Third pick-This is a coarse pick. No. 2 face board remains up as before and all
the three grifes are lifted.
This face board keeps up the same half of the face warp in the ground while the
grifes lift all the face warp in the figure and all the back warp in the ground leaving
the back warp down under the figure. This coarse pick is put in the same face shed
as the previous fine pick under the ground and is used as filling or wadding where the
figure is to come.
Fourth pick-This is also a coarse pick. The No. 1 face board lifts and all the
three grifes remain up.
All the face warp in the figure and all the back warp in the ground
kept raised
the back warp being still left down under the figure. This coarse pick is put in the
same face shed as the first pick under the ground and is used as in No. 3 pick for
filling or wadding where the figure is to come.
Following out these movements it will be seen that on the face of the fabric the ground
is composed of the coarse warp threads and fine weft threads woven as calico while
the figure on the surface is composed of the fine warp threads and fine weft threads
woven as calico with the coarse weft interwoven at the back of the ground with the face
warp and lying between the face cloth and the back warp where the figure comes
thereby producing a raised fine figure on a level fine ground such a result not having
been previously obtained.
Athough we have described four picks to a card and a special Jacquard machine
only a similar effect may be obtained if the fabric be woven with three or five picks to
a card or if woven with an ordinary Jacquard machine or Jacquard machines.
Dated this 11th day of December 1886.
H. B. BARLOW,
Manchester, Agent.

page_text: Improvements in the Manufacture of Figured Fabrics and in the
Mechanism or Apparatus Used in such Manufacture.
We, THOMAS TAYLOR of the firm of Barlow and Jones Limited of Bolton in the
County of Lancaster Manufacturers and JACOB WARBURTON of the same place
Designer, do hereby declare the nature of said Invention for IMPROVEMENTS IN THE
MANUFACTURE OF FIGURED FABRICS AND IN THE MECHANISM OR APPARATUS USED
IN SUCH MANUFACTURE, and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
Our invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of a certain class of
figured fabrics used principally for bed quilts toilet covers mats quiltings and the like
and the object of our improvements is to produce such figured fabrics with a raised
fine figure upon a level fine ground.
We weave our improved fabric with two shuttles one carrying a coarse weft for the
back and the filling of the figure and the other a fine weft for the face both of the
ground and figure and we employ two warps having an equal number of ends one
the back warp is a coarse warp and is woven as tight as possible and the other the
face warp is woven sufficiently slack to allow a raised figure or pattern to be formed.
In manufacturing our improved fabric we either use a separate Jacquard machine
for each warp or a special Jacquard machine constructed according to this Invention
that will control both warps from one and the same set of cards. This specially
constructed Jacquard machine has three separate grifes consequently one needle
governs three hooks all sprung towards the cylinder of the Jacquard machine one of
these three hooks faces the cylinder and is tied up to two face warp threads which are
drawn through separate comber boards and knotted for pressing that is raising for
forming sheds. The other two hooks are turned away from the cylinder and are tied
up to two back warp threads one to each hook from separate back boards which are
also knotted for pressing. These four threads i.e. two face and two back threads all
work in one space or dent of the reed end and end that is one face end and one back
end alternately.
In cutting the cards for our special Jacquard machine we cut that part intended to
be the figure so that when the cylinder brings a card against the needles those hooks
which are turned toward the cylinder are pressed off their grife and those hooks which
are turned away from the cylinder are pressed on to their respective grifes by the
uncut portion of the card while those hooks which are turned toward the cylinder are
left standing on their grife and those hooks which are turned away from the cylinder
are left standing off their respective grifes by the cut portion of the card.
Figure 1 on Sheet 1 of the accompanying two Sheets of Diagrams illustrates the
arrangement and construction of our special Jacquard machine as above described.
In this Diagram C designates the cylinder or barrel N the needles H the hooks
and G, G, G, the three grifes and B, B, B, B, the harness boards. Each needle N
is furnished with three eyes and actuates three hooks H one in each grife; One of

page_text: these three hooks has its hooked part facing the cylinder C and is operated by the
grife G, the other two hooks are turned in the opposite direction and are operated by
the grifes G, G, each of the grifes G₁ G, G, has a separate motion G, being used to
work all the face warp while G, G, each work half the back warp.
The Diagram shows twenty four hooks numbered from one to twenty four; the
threads from one to sixteen are passed through the harness boards B, and B. and
control back warp threads; and those numbered seventeen to twenty four pass through
the harness boards B, B, and control face warp threads.
The numbers placed below the harness boards indicate the order in which the
threads are passed through them.
When weaving our improved fabric with four picks to a card and with two shuttles
for weft the movement in a loom changing shuttles at one end only and when weaving
tabby that is plain cloth or calico would be as follows:-
First pick. This is a fine pick.
No. 1 face board B, and No. 1 back grife G, rise.
The effect of this is to lift half of the face warp all across and half of the back warp
in the ground only.
Second pick.-This is also a fine pick.
No. 2 face board B, and No. 2 back grife G, rise.
The effect of this is to lift the opposite half of the face warp to the first pick all
across and the opposite half of the back warp in the ground only.
Third pick. This is a coarse pick.
No. 2 face board B, remains up as before and all the three grifes are lifted.
This face board keeps up the same half of the face warp in the ground while the
grifes lift all the face warp in the figure and all the back warp in the ground leaving
the back warp down under the figure. This coarse pick is put in the same face shed
as the previous fine pick under the ground and is used as filling or wadding where the
figure is to come.
Fourth pick.-This is also a coarse pick.
The No. 1 face board B, lifts and all the three grifes G₁ G₂ G, remain up.
All the face warp in the figure and all the back warp in the ground is kept raised
the back warp being still left down under the figure. This coarse pick is put in the
same face shed as the first pick under the ground and is used as in No. 3 pick for
fillling or wadding where the figure is to come.
Following out these movements it will be seen that on the face of the fabric the
ground is composed of the coarse warp threads and fine weft threads woven as calico
i.e. plain cloth while the figure on the surface is composed of the fine warp threads
and fine weft threads woven as calico or plain cloth with the coarse weft interwoven
at the back of the ground with the face warp and lying between the face cloth and the
back warp where the figure comes thereby producing a raised fine figure on a level
fine ground such a result not having been previously thus obtained.
Figure 1 on Sheet 2 is a Diagram showing in longitudinal section the structure of
the fabric made with a loose back and woven by means of two shuttles and four picks
to a card as described.
The back warp is represented by the strong lines a and c the face warp by the fine
lines b and d the fine weft from one shuttle by small circles and the coarse weft from
the other shuttle by the larger circles.
The line of spaces marked E on all the Diagrams Sheet 2 shows the picks which go
to form the face of the figure.
The line of spaces marked F shows the picks which go to fill or wad the figure.
The line of spaces marked G shows the picks which in Figs. 1, 4, and 7 only go to
form the surface of the ground but which in Figs. 2, 3, 5 and are also used for
binding the warp under the figure as hereinafter described.
The line of spaces marked H shows the picks which go to form the back of the
ground.
If it be desired to weave a fabric with a fast back then pick No. 3 may as shown in
Fig. 2 be interwoven with that portion of the back warp a and c which would.

page_text: otherwise float under the figure as shown in Fig. 1 Sheet 2 and this interweaving is
effected by raising the back comber boards alternately one at the time of the third
pick in one round and the other board at the time of the third pick in the next round
the fourth picks being wadding picks; or this may be reversed as shown in Fig. 3 by
making the third picks the wadding picks.
Although we have described four picks to a card and a special Jacquard machine
only a similar effect may be obtained if the fabric be woven with three five or six
picks to a card or if woven with an ordinary Jacquard machine or Jacquard
machines.
Figure 4 is a Diagram showing three picks to a card the fabric being woven with
two shuttles having a drop box at one side only of the loom.
Figure 5 is a Diagram showing five picks to a card woven with two shuttles.
Figure 6 is a Diagram showing six picks to a card woven with two shuttles.
Although we have described means and methods of proceeding which we find
convenient and which give good results in practice it is obvious that slight modifi-
cations may be made without departing from the nature of our Invention.
For instance one shuttle in place of two as preferred by us may be employed; an
illustration of this being given by the Diagram Figure 7 which represents a cloth
made with a loose back in weaving which one shuttle and three picks to a card are
used. The other Diagrams Figs. 1 to 6 drawn as now shown on Sheet 2 but with the
circles showing wefts all of one size as in Fig. 7 would represent the same cloths but
woven by one shuttle instead of with two shuttles as now described. Again the
warps may have an unequal number of ends instead of an equal number as
described and in place of using a separate Jacquard machine for each warp or the
special Jacquard machine described and illustrated by Fig. 1 Sheet 1 both warps
might be actuated by an ordinary but sufficiently extensive Jacquard machine, which
last arrangement would however be clumsy and inconvenient. Again in place of
drawing two face and two back threads end and end into each dent of the reed a finer
reed may be employed in which three ends are drawn into each dent two from one
warp and one from the other or two ends may be drawn into each dent one from each
warp. Also twills or special forms of weaving may be produced in lieu of calico or
plain cloth in either the ground or the figure or both or at the back of the fabric.
In a loom fitted with what is known as a pick and pick motion for changing the
shuttles or in a loom fitted with one shuttle only the order of the picks herein laid
down may be varied.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said Invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what we claim is-
1st. A figured fabric having raised figures of fine weaving upon a level fine
ground or surface in combination with either similar coarser or other weaving in the
body of the fabric for the purpose of backing the ground and filling the figured
portions as described and as illustrated by the accompanying Diagrams.
2nd. The method of weaving the improved figured fabric substantially as herein
described and as shown.
3rd. The special Jacquard machine with three separate grifes for controlling two
warps when weaving a figured fabric substantially as and for the purposes herein
described and as shown.