IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES
Year: 1852

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Auguste Edouard Loradoux Bellford, of No.
16, Castle Street, Holborn, in the City of London, Patent Agent,
for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES."—A
communication.
Sealed the 12th March 1853, and dated the 6th October 1852.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Auguste Edouard
Loradoux Bellford at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents,
with his Petition, on the 6th October 1852.
I, AUGUSTE EDOUARD LORADOUX BELLFORD, of No. 16, Castle Street,
Holborn, in the City of London, Patent Agent, do hereby declare the
nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES"
to be as follows:-
From the peculiar construction of the machines which form the
subject of these improvements I denominate them "sewing lathes."
The seam is formed by the interlacing of two threads, one of which
is protruded through the cloth in a series of loops by means of a reci-
procating needle, while the other is passed through the loops of the
first.

page_text: The main feature or first part of the Invention consists in a rotating
hook, by which the loops of the first thread, or that carried by the
needle, are extended, upon being pressed through the cloth, to a suitable
size, to allow the second thread to be passed through them. The thread
is supplied to the needle by a bobbin, which may be either stationary or
move with the needle, and the second or back thread is carried by a
bobbin, which has to pass through every loop after it is extended by the
rotating hook; this bobbin which carries the back thread may either
be stationary in the line of it's axis, or may have a reciprocating motion
in the said line. In case of the bobbin being stationary it is so formed
and so arranged in relation to the rotating hook that as the hook
extends the loop it will pass it over the bobbin, but if the bobbin has
a reciprocating motion it is passed in alternately opposite directions
through the loop. Every passage of the bobbin through a loop forms a
stitch when the loop is tightened.
The improvements consist, secondly, in a method of tightening each
stitch by the extension of the loop in forming the succeeding stitch.
Thirdly, in certain means of moving the cloth progressively forward.
Fourthly, in a device applied to the rotating hook, when the station-
ary bobbin is employed for the back thread, by which the loop is pre-
vented passing entirely over the bobbin until the succeeding loop is
caught by the rotating hook, and the tightening of the former com-
mences.
The accompanying Drawing exhibits two machines, viz., one with the
bobbin which carries the back thread stationary in the line of it's axis,
and the other with the said bobbin receiving a reciprocating motion in
the said line.
Fig. 1, is a front elevation of the first-named machine.
Fig. 2, is an end elevation of the same.
Fig. 3, is a section of the same in a plane parallel with Fig. 2,
but seen in the opposite direction to that Figure.
Fig. 4, is a plan of the same.
Fig. 5, is an inverted plan of the cloth table and its appendages.
Fig. 6, is a perspective view of the rotating hook..
Fig. 7, is a front elevation of the second machine.

page_text: Fig. 8, is an end elevation of the same...
Fig. 9, is a section of the same in a plane parallel with Figure 8,
seen in the same direction.
Fig. 10, is a plan of the same.
Fig. 11, is a projection of the periphery of the reciprocating man-
dril, shewing the form of the groove by which motion is given to the
reciprocating bobbin.
Similar letters of reference indicate corresponding parts in the several
Figures illustrating either machine.
The machine illustrated by Figures 1, to 6, will be first described;
it's working parts are all attached to or carried by a suitable frame
A, B, which is secured firmly to a table or bench.
The mandril C, resembling in a certain degree the mandrel of a
lathe, is fitted in suitable bearings in the standards A, of the frame, and
is suitably turned or provided with a pulley D, to receive an endless
band, by which rotary motion is communicated to it from a driving
wheel moved by a treadle under the table, or by any other suitable
means. At the front end the mandril is provided with a plate or por-
tion of a disc E, (shown best in Fig. 6,) which is concave on its face,
and has portions of two threads of a screw formed on its periphery, a
portion of the periphery being cut away to form the hook a, which is
the rotating hook already spoken of for opening or extending the loops
in the needle thread. One part of the front or outer thread of the screw
is chamfered off at b, to the back or inner thread, and the notch c, or
space between the screw threads, is made to extend back from the point
of the hook about one third of the circumference. Within the con-
cavity in the face of the disc E, the bobbin F,.which carries the thread
to be passed through the loops, is held by a ring G, attached to a bar
H, which is adjustable in a groove in the bottom part or bed of the
frame, the said ring holding the bobbin in it's place, but allowing it to
turn when it is required to supply thread to the loops. The thread of
this bobbin is shewn in blue color for the sake of distinction. The said
bobbin F, resembles somewhat the bobbins employed in the carriages
of lace machines, being made so as to occupy very little space longitudi-
nally to it's axis. The edges of the two plates of which it's sides or ends

page_text: are formed are brought nearly close together, but the plates are bellied
out to hold a quantity of thread. One part d, of the mandrel is turned
eccentrically, or carries an eccentric, the said eccentric part being
encircled by a ring J, to which a rod K, is attached, which connects to
an arm L, which is secured to the arbor M, which is hung on centre
screws x, x, in the standards B, B, of the frame, and which forms the
fulcrum of a lever of the first order; one N, of whose arms is the needle
arm carrying the needle n; to the other O, is secured the spindle e,
upon which is hung the bobbin P, which carries the thread (shown in
red color) for supplying the needle and forming the loops; this thread
is prevented from unwinding too easily by a spring y, which acts as a
brake upon the bobbin P. By the revolution of the mandrel C, the
eccentric d, is caused to give a vibratory movement to the lever N, O.
The needle works in an arc, which, if continued, would nearly intersect
the axis of the mandril C. The hook a, rotates in a vertical plane
parallel with the needle, (which may also be considered to work in a
vertical plane, though in an arc,) it's point passing as close as possible in
front of the needle. The movements of the hook and needle are so
regulated that the point of the hook passes the needle just as it is com-
mencing its ascent. It is shown in the Drawings, Figs. 1, 2, 3, to be
just passing.
The cloth or material to be sewed (shown by a gray line in Figures
1, 2, 3,) is laid upon the plate Q, which is secured to the top of
the standards A, and forms a small table. It is held down by a spring
bar f, which is attached to a stationary arm R, which is secured to the
frame. This spring bar is forked or slotted, and has a spring tongue g,
playing freely in the slot. Both the spring bar and tongue press upon
the cloth, but the tongue will yield to a slight upward pressure. The
plate Q, is perforated to allow the needle to pass through as the lever
N, O, vibrates, and has a small slit from the point where the needle,
passes through to the front edge to allow the thread from the bobbin F,
to pass through as the cloth moves.
Motion is given to the cloth so as to enable the needle in it's succes-
sive descents to perforate it at suitable intervals by means of a feed bar
S, whose form will be understood by referring to Figures 3, and 5. It

page_text: consists of a straight flat bar with a slot extending nearly it's whole
length, and with two cars i, i, on it's under side. In the slot plays a
spring k, which is secured to the bar, and has sharp teeth (see
Figure 3,) at its front end; the bar S, slides in suitable mortices in the
standards A, immediately below the plate Q, in a direction parallel with
the axis of the mandrel.
:
The points of the teeth 1, are immediately under a small slot in the
plate, but do not pass through until pressure is applied below the
spring. The said slot in the plate is under the point of the spring
tongue g, or that part of it which presses on the cloth. Upon the
mandrel C, there is a cam T, (see Fig. 3,) which consists of a thin plate
nearly flat and cylindrical, but at one point m, in it's periphery there
is a prominence which extends also to the front. By the revolution of
the mandrel the prominence is made to act on the under side of the
spring, and force up the points of the teeth 1, through the slot into
the cloth, at the same time that it's front part acts on the back of the
ears i, i, and moves the feed bar longitudinally forward towards the line
of, but perpendicular to, the needles motion. This movement of the
feed bar, while the points of the teeth t, are protruding above the
surface of the plate Q, causes the teeth to move the cloth forward
the length of a stitch, the bar being returned by the pressure of a
spring n, in front of the cars i, i, after the prominence on the cam has
passed. The length of the stitch is regulated by an excentric stop p,
which is pivoted to the under side of the plate Q; against this stop
the feed bar is forced by the spring n. The length of the stitch
is greatest when the least prominent part of the stop is turned towards
the end of the bar, as it then allows the bar to go back farthest,
and it is shortest when the most prominent part of the cam is opposite
the bar.
In preparing to commence operations the material to be sewed is
placed on the top of the plate Q, under the pressing plate f, and close
up to the edge of the plate 1, which is adjustable, and serves as a guage
to regulate the distance of the seam from the edge of the material.
The thread from the bobbin P, is conducted through the eye t, in the
needle holder, near the end of the needle arm, behind the needle, and

page_text: thence through it's eye, which is made transversly to the plane in
which it moves. Thread from the bobbin F, is led upwards over a small
bar S, and it's end is secured under the plate Q, by a small spring n.
The end of the thread from the needle is held by the attendant, and
all is ready. The machine is then set in motion, the mandrel rotating
in the direction of the arm, shown in Figure 1. The descent of the
needle arm forces the thread through the material, the needle carrying
the thread with it, the thread lying close to the needle behind and in
front of it. As the needle commences rising the point of the rotating
hook a, passes between the needle and the thread in front of it, as
shown in Figures 1, and 3, and as the needle continues to rise and the
hook to rotate a loop is formed in the thread; as the rotation of the
hook continues it extends the loop, and that part of the loop which
is on the front side of the hook is drawn between the bobbin and
the concave face of the disc, that part which is behind the hook
passing into the notch or recess c. The loop is extended by the
continual rotation of the hook until it is wide enough to pass en-
tirely over the bobbin F, when the part at the back of the hook
escapes from the notch or recess c, and slips over the chamfered
part b, of the screw on the disc to the front of the bobbin F, and
not yet being released by the hook is drawn over the front of the
bobbin between it and the ring G; thus it will be understood that as one
side of the loop passes on one side of the bobbin, and the other on the
opposite side, the bobbin passes through it, and it's thread is encircled
by the loop, and on the loop being drawn tight it locks the thread
from the bobbin F. The thread is drawn tight by the hook opening
the next loop; and in order to prevent the loop as it slips over the
bobbin F, from escaping before the hook catches the succeeding loop
and is ready to tighten it, a piece of leather or pad v, is attached to
a plate w, secured to the frame, and made to press closely upon the
outer screw thread of the disc, but this is so arranged that the part of
the screw where the chamfer b, commences reaches it just as the hook
enters the succeeding loop, and the chamfer not touching the pad allows
the loop to escape.
The needle arm vibrates once during every revolution of the hook,

page_text: and thus the needle passes twice through the cloth during the time
that one stitch is formed; but it must not be supposed that the two
movements of the needle form only one stitch, as the same operation is
performed by every movement of the needle and every revolution of the
hook a, but the one stitch is commenced before the preceeding one is
finished, the extension of the loop for the new stitch always drawing
the preceding loop tight in consequence of the bobbin F, being pre-
vented by the spring y, from turning and giving out more thread until
the slack is all drawn up by the rotating hook. The operation of the
rotating hook and needle continue as described until it is desired to
stop, or the thread from either bobbin gives out.
Previous to or during the early part of every descent of the needle
the cam T, comes into operation on the feed bar S, and spring k, and
moves the cloth the distance required for the next stitch: this move-
ment of the cloth cause the bobbin F, to unwind and give out enough
thread for the next stitch. The end of the needle thread, which has
been described as being held by the attendant, may be relinquished
by him, and the end of the thread from the bobbin F, may be re-
leased from between the spring u, and plate Q, after the first stitch is
finished, and the machine will continue it's operation. This machine
being now fully described, the description of that illustrated by Figures
7, to 11, will now be proceeded with.
All the working parts of this last-named machine are secured to a
frame B, C, which is bolted or otherwise to a table. The mandrel A,
is tubular, and rests in suitable bearings in the face plate B, and back
standard C, of the frame, carrying a whirl D, to which the driving
band is applied. It's interior is bored out to admit the bobbin E, of
common form, which takes the place of the bobbin F, of the first-
described machine, carrying the back thread. It is also furnished with
a piston F, whose rod b, passes out through the back end. The bobbin
has a tubular centre, and is provided with a spring plate a, which en-
circles the thread and forms a shield to prevent it from becoming slack.
That portion of the periphery of the mandrel near the whirl D, is
turned eccentrically, and an eccentric ring 1, is fitted thereto; this ring
is connected by a rod m, with the shorter arm d, of a bent lever G,
which is pivoted at the intersection of it's arms to the extremity of the

page_text: face plate B. The longer arm of this lever projects in a nearly horizon-
tal direction from it's pivot, and is perforated near it's extremity to form
an eye c, through which a thread from a bobbin H, is passed. This
bobbin is pivoted upon a stationary spindle, and is prevented from
turning too freely by a leather washer which is inserted between the
head of the bobbin and the adjacent face plate B, the said washer
doing the duty of the spring y, in the first machine. The lever
carries the needle e, at it's extremity, the said needle being situated
in the vertical plane passing through the axis of the mandrel, and
being caused by the operation of the eccentric to move up and down
as the mandrel A, is turned. This needle is pierced near it's lower
extremity to form an eye, through which the thread from the eye c, is
passed.
Immediately in front of the hollow mandrel A, is a small stationary
mandrel I, whose axis is in the same right line as the axis of the
hollow mandrel, and whose extremity i, approaches the adjacent extre-
mity of the hollow mandrel. This stationary mandrel is formed by the
upper horizontal arm of a piece of wire, which is bent into a form
resembling a staple, and is pivoted at it's middle in the outer extremity
of a horizontal arm J. This arm is screwed or otherwise secured into
the face plate, and projects at the inner side of the face plate to form a
traverse bar, to which a traverse block K, is fitted. The block is
secured to a shifting rod L which slides through a hole in the face
plate, and is bent upwards at it's hinder extremity, which is secured to
the projecting end of the piston rod b. The front extremity of the
shifting rod is also bent upwards to act upon the outer end of the
bobbin E, and it's distance from the piston F, is a little greater than the
extreme length of the bobbin. A reciprocating movement is im-
parted to the shifting rod by an endless groove n, formed in the outer
periphery of the mandrel A, and acting upon a traveller o, which is
pivoted to the traverse block K. This groove, if extended upon a flat
surface, would be of the form represented at Figure 5, and as the
hollow mandrel revolves the traveller is forced to traverse its whole
extent in endless succession. On one portion of the periphery of the
mandrel the opposite extremities of the groove are parallel, so that
when these portions are passing the traveller the latter remains at rest.

page_text: On the remaining portion of the periphery the extremities of the
groove meet and intersect each other; consequently, when these portions
are passing the traveller will be alternately moved in opposite directions,
and will impart a corresponding movement to the shifting rod, which in
turn will move the piston alternately outwards and inwards within the
mandrel. As the piston moves outwards it forces the bobbin before it
upon the stationary mandrel which enters the tubular centre. When
the movement of the shifting rod is reversed the piston is drawn
inwards in it's socket, and at the same time the outer extremity of the
shifting rod bearing against the outer head of the bobbin draws the
latter off the stationary mandrel, and causes it to enter the socket in the
hollow mandrel A. From the shape of the groove on the barrel of the
lathe mandrel the bobbin is moved outwards at one revolution and
inwards at the succeeding one, while the needle c, being operated upon
by the eccentric is depressed and raised at every revolution of the
mandrel A. The outer extremity of the mandrel A, has a screw thread
f, formed upon it's cylindrical periphery, and this screw thread is cut
away to form a hook g, which is substantially similar to the hook a, of
the first machine, and performs a similar duty, moving past the needle
e, when it is about in it's lowest position, and engaging in the loop of
the thread; as the hook continues to revolve it draws down and extends
the loop, the outer half of the latter being extended in a straight line
across the extremity of the mandrel, while the inner half being engaged
behind the screw thread is retained upon the periphery of the mandrel.
When the hook has accomplished about five eighths of a revolution from
the needle the loop is of sufficient size to permit the passage of the
bobbin E, which is then moyed through it by the shifting rod. From
the form of the groove upon the barrel of the mandrel this movement
of the bobbin is effected while the mandrel is turning but a small
fraction of a revolution, so that the bobbin is completely through the
loop before the hook g, completes its revolution. As the mandrel A,
continues to turn, that portion of the loop which was retained upon it's
cylindrical periphery, being moved outwards by the action of the screw
thread, slips off it's vanishing extremity, and passes between the
adjacent extremities of the revolving and stationary mandrels. Mean-
while the needle has been raised by the action of the eccentric, and is

page_text: again depressed to carry down a loop of thread, which in it's turn is
extended around the mandrel to permit the bobbin to be passed through
it in a direction the reverse of that in which it moved in passing
through the preceding loop. As the bobbin H, from which the loop
thread is supplied is prevented from turning freely by the action of the
leather washer before referred to, it will not turn to give out more
thread until the hook g, in it's revolution, has drawn up all the slack
thread of the preceding loop; hence the formation of cach loop or
stitch draws tight the preceding stitch. The cloth to be sewed is
applied to the plate M, the direction of the seam in this as in the other
machine being parallel with the axis of the mandrel. It is held firmly
upon this plate by means of a spring guard P, which is secured to the
face plate, and has a slot in it's extremity through which the needle
passes as it is moved up and down. As the needle is moved upwards
the cloth is moved outwards the length of a stitch to cause the needle
to perforate it in a new place by the action of a segment of a screw
thread j, formed upon a collar r, on the mandrel, which, projects through
a slot in the plate H, above.
When the machine is to be set at work the thread on the stationary
bobbin H, is passed through the eye of the needle, and a driving band
is applied to the whirl D, by which the mandrel is caused to revolve
rapidly in the direction indicated by the arrow in Figure 7. The cloth
or material to be sewed is applied to the plate M, and has a continuous
seam formed in it by the interlacing of the thread upon the travelling
bobbin with that presented to it by the needle. When the thread
upon the travelling bobbin is exhausted the machine is stopped, the
stationary mandrel is turned outwards from the revolving mandrel, the
empty bobbin is removed, and a full one is substituted in it's place;
the stationary mandrel is then turned inwards, and the revolving mandrel
again set in motion. The extremity of the lower arm of the staple-
formed wire I, engages in a notch in the face plate, and this retains the
stationary mandrel in its proper position.
What is claimed in this Invention, and desired to be secured by
Letters Patent, is,―
First. The combination, as comprehended in the machine illustrated
by Figures 1, to 6, of a bobbin, which is stationary in the line of its axis,

page_text: for carrying one thread, with a rotating hook which is of suitable form
or forms, part of a disc or it's equivalent of suitable form, to extend the
loop in the other thread and pass it completely over the said bobbin,
whereby the two threads are interlaced together, the parts being seve-
rally arranged and operating in any way substantially as set forth.
Second. The combination of a rotating hook to extend the loop on
one thread, with a reciprocating bobbin to carry the other thread through
the loop so extended, for the purpose of interlacing the two threads
together, whether the parts be severally arranged and operates as
herein set forth, and illustrated in Figures 7, to 11, or in any other way
substantially the same.
Third. The feed motion of the machine illustrated by Figures 1, to 6,
for moving the cloth or material, and regulating the distance of said
movements, consisting of the feed bar S, the spring k, with it's teeth 1,
the cam T, upon the mandrel, the spring n, and eccentric stop p, the
whole combined in any manner substantially as described.
Fourth. The hollow mandrel, constructed substantially as herein
set forth and shown in Figures 7, to 11, with a groove in it's periphery
to give a reciprocating motion to the bobbins, a segmental screw thread
to feed the cloth forward as the sewing progresses, and a hook and
groove on it's extremity to form loops on the needle thread in combina-
tion with a reciprocating bobbin, the whole arranged and operating
substantially as set forth.
Fifth. The tightening of each stitch by the extension of the loop in
forming the succeeding stitch as described and accomplished in both
machines.
Sixth. The pad v, of leather or other material. applied in any way
substantially as described and shewn in Figures 1, and. 2, so as to press
upon the disc or equivalent, of which the rotating hook forms part, and
prevent the hook. slipping entirely off it before the succeeding loop is
caught by the hook, the said disc or equivalent being suitably formed
to free itself from contact with the pad at the proper time to release
the loop.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Auguste Edouard Loradoux Bellford in the Great
Seal Patent Office, on the 6th April 1853.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I,
AUGUSTE EDOUARD LORADOUX BELLFORD, of 16, Castle Street, Holborn,
in the City of London, Patent Agent, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Sixth day of October, in the year of
our Lord One thousand cight hundred and fifty-two, in the sixteenth
year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and
grant unto me, the said Auguste Edouard Loradoux Bellford, Her
special license that I, the said Auguste Edouard Loradoux Bellford,
my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as J, the
said Auguste Edouard Loradoux Bellford, my executors, administrators,
and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time
to time and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed,
should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within
the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel
Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention, communicated to me by
a foreigner residing abroad, for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES,"
upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said Auguste Edouard
Loradoux Bellford, by an instrument in writing under my hand and
seal, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said
Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and
cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six
calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said
Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Auguste Edouard Loradoux
Bellford, do hereby declare the nature of my said Invention, and in
what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described
and ascertained in and by the following statement, that is to say:
From the peculiar construction of the machines which form the
subject of these improvements I denominate them "seaming lathes."
The seam is formed by the interlacing of two threads, one of

page_text: which is protruded through the cloth in a series of loops by means
of a reciprocating needle, while the other is passed through the loops
of the first.
The main feature or first part of the Invention consists in a ro-
tating hook, by which the loops of the first thread, or that carried by
the needle, are extended, upon being pressed through the cloth, to a
suitable size, to allow the second thread to be passed through them.
The thread is supplied to the needle by a bobbin, which may be either
stationary or move with the needle, and the second or back thread is
carried by a bobbin which has to pass through every loop after it is
extended by the rotating hook; this bobbin which carries the back
thread may either be stationary in the line of its axis, or may have a
reciprocating motion in the said line. In case of the bobbin being
stationary it is so formed and so arranged in relation to the rotating
hook that as the hook extends the loop it will pass it over the bobbin,
but if the bobbin has a reciprocating motion it is passed in alternately
opposite directions through the loop. Every passage of the bobbin
through a loop forms a stitch when the loop is tightened.
The improvements consist, secondly, in a method of tightening each
stitch by the extension of the loop in forming the succeeding stitch.
Thirdly, in certain means of moving the cloth progressively forward.
Fourthly, in a device applied to the rotating hook when the stationary
bobbin is employed for the back thread, by which the loop is pre-
vented passing entirely over the bobbin until the succeeding loop is
caught by the rotating hook, and the tightening of the former com-
mences.
The accompanying Drawing exhibits two machines, videlicet, one with
the bobbin, which carries the back thread stationary in the line of its
axis, and the other with the said bobbin receiving a reciprocating
motion in the said line.
Figure 1, is a front elevation of the first-named machine.
Figure 2, is an end elevation of the same.
Figure 3, is a section of the same in a plane parallel with Figure 2,
but seen in the opposite direction to that Figure.
Figure 4, is a plan of the same.

page_text: ape and its appendages.
Figure 6, is a perspective view of the rotating hook.
Figure 7, is a front elevation of the second machine.
Figure. 8, is an end elevation of the same.
Figure 9, is a section of the same in a plane parallel with Figure 8,
seen in the same direction.
.
Figure 10, is a plan of the same.
Figure 11, is a projection of the periphery of the reciprocating
mandrel, showing the form of the groove by which motion is given
to the reciprocating bobbin.
Similar letters of reference indicate corresponding parts in the several
Figures illustrating either machine.
The machine illustrated by Figures 1, to 6, will be first described.
Its working parts are all attached to or carried by a suitable frame A, B,
which is secured firmly to a table or bench.
The mandrel C, resembling in a certain degree the mandrel of a
lathe, is fitted in suitable bearings in the standards A, of the frame,
and is suitably turned or provided with a pulley D, to receive an
endless band, by which rotary- motion is communicated to it from a
driving wheel moved by a treadle under the table, or by any other
suitable means. At the front end the mandrel is provided with a
plate or portion of a disc E, (shown best in Figure 6,) which is
concave on its face, and has portions of two threads of a screw
formed on its periphery, a portion of the periphery being cut away
to form the hook a, which is the rotating hook already spoken of for
opening or extending the loops in the needle thread; one part of the
front or outer thread of the screw is chamfered off at b, to the back or
inner thread, and the notch c, or space between the screw threads, is
made to extend back from the point of the hook about one third of the
circumference. Within the concavity in the face of the disc E, the
bobbin F, which carries the thread to be passed through the loops, is
held by a ring G, attached to a bar H, which is adjustable in a groove
in the bottom part or bed of the frame, the said ring holding the bobbin
in its place, but allowing it to turn when it is required to supply thread
to the loops. The thread of this bobbin is shown in blue color for the

page_text: sake of distinction.
The said bobbin F, resembles somewhat the
bobbins employed in the carriages of lace machines, being made so as
to occupy very little space longitudinally to its axis. The edges of the
two plates of which its sides or ends are formed are brought nearly close
together, but the plates are bellied out to hold a quantity of thread.
One part d, of the mandrel is turned eccentrically, or carries an
eccentric, the said eccentric part being encircled by a ring J, to which a
rod K, is attached, which connects to an arm L, which is secured to the
arbor M, which is hung on centre screws a, a, in the standards B, B, of
the frame, and which forms the fulcrum of a lever of the first order, one
(N,) of whose arms is the needle arm carrying the needle n; to the
other (0,) is screwed the spindle e, upon which is hung the bobbin P,
which carries the thread (shown in red color) for supplying the needle
and forming the loops; this thread is prevented from unwinding too
easily by a spring y, which acts as a break upon the bobbin P. By the
revolution of the mandrel C, the eccentric d, is caused to give a
vibratory movement to the lever N, O. The needle works in an arc,
which, if continued, would nearly intersect the axis of the mandril C.
The hook a, rotates in a vertical plane parallel with the needle (which
may also be considered to work in a vertical plane, though in an arc),
its point passing as close as possible in front of the needle. The move-
ments of the hook and needle are so regulated that the point of the
hook passes the needle just as it is commencing its ascent. It is shown
in the Drawings, Figures 1, 2, 3, to be just passing.
The cloth or material to be sewed (shown by a gray line in Figures
1, 2, and 3,) is laid upon the plate Q, which is secured to the top
of the standards A, and forms a small table. It is held down by
a spring bar f, which is attached to a stationary arm R, which is
secured to the frame. This spring bar is forked or slotted, and
has a spring tongue g, playing freely in the slot. Both the spring bar
and 'tongue press upon the cloth, but the tongue will yield to a slight
upward pressure. The plate Q, is perforated to allow the needle to
pass through as the lever N, O, vibrates, and has a small slit from the
point where the needle n, passes through to the front edge to allow the
thread from the bobbin F, to pass through as the cloth moves.

page_text: Motion is given to the cloth so as to enable the needle in its succes-
sive descents to perforate it at suitable intervals by means of a feed bar
S, whose form will be understood by referring to Figures 3, and 5. It
consists of a straight flat bar, with a slot extending nearly its whole
length, and with two ears i, i, on its under side. In the slot plays a
spring k, which is secured to the bar, and has sharp teeth, (see Figure
3,) at its front end; the bar S, slides in suitable mortices in the standards
A, immediately below the plate Q, in a direction parallel with the axis
of the mandrel.
The points of the teeth 1, are immediately under a small slot in
the plate, but do not pass through until pressure is applied below
the spring. The said slot in the plate is under the point of the
spring tongue g, or that part of it which presses on the cloth. Upon
the mandrel C, is a cam T, (see Figure 3,) which consists of a thin
plate nearly flat and cylindrical, but at one point m, in its periphery
there is a prominence which extends also to the front. By the revo-
lution of the mandrel the prominence is made to act on the under side
of the spring k, and force up the points of the teeth 7, through the slot
into the cloth, at the same time that its front part acts on the back of
the ears i, i, and moves the feed bar longitudinally forward towards the
line f, but perpendicularly to the needle's motion. This movement of the
feed bar, while the points of the teeth 1, are protruding above the surface
of the plate Q, causes the teeth to move the cloth forward the length of
a stitch, the bar being returned by the pressure of a spring n, in front
of the ears i, i, after the prominence on the cam has passed. The
length of the stitch is regulated by an eccentric stop p, which is pivoted
to the under side of the plate Q; against this stop the feed bar is
forced by the spring n. The length of the stich is greatest when the
least prominent part of the stop is turned towards the end of the bar, as
it then allows the bar to go back farthest, and it is shortest when the
most prominent part of the cam is opposite the bar.
.
In preparing to commence operation the material to be sewed is
placed on the top of the plate Q, under the pressing plate f, and close
up to the edge of the plate r, which is adjustable, and serves as a gauge
to regulate the distance of the seam from the edge of the material.

page_text: The thread from the bobbin P, is conducted through the eye t, in the
needle holder, near the end of the needle arm, behind the needle, and
thence through its eye, which is made transversely to the plane in
which it moves. Thread from the bobbin F, is led upwards over a
small bars, and its end is secured under the plate Q, by a small
spring u. The end of the thread from the needle is held by the
attendant, and all is ready. The machine is then set in motion,
the mandrel rotating in the direction of the arm shown in Figure 1.
The descent of the needle arm forces the thread through the material,
the needle carrying the thread with it, the thread lying close to the
needle behind and in front of it. As the needle commences rising
the point of the rotating hook a, passes between the needle and the
thread in front of it, as shown in Figures 1, and 3, and as the needle
continues to rise and the hook to rotate a loop is formed in the thread;
as the rotation of the hook continues it extends the loop, and that part
of the loop which is on the front side of the hook is drawn between
the bobbin and the concave face of the disc, that part which is behind
the hook passing into the notch or recess c. The loop is extended by
the continual rotation of the hook until it is wide enough to pass
entirely over the bobbin F, when the part at the back of the hook
escapes from the notch or recess c, and slips over the chamfered part b,
of the screw on the disc to the front of the bobbin F, and not yet
being released by the hook is drawn over the part of the bobbin
between it and the ring G; thus it will be understood that as one side
of the loop passes on one side of the bobbin, and the other on the
opposite side, the bobbin passes through it, and its thread is encircled
by the loop, and on the loop being drawn tight it locks the thread from
the bobbin F. The thread is drawn tight by the hook opening the next
loop; and in order to prevent the loop as it slips over the bobbin F,
from escaping before the hook catches the succeeding loop, and is ready
to tighten it, a piece of leather or pad v, is attached to a plate w,
secured to the frame, and made to pass closely upon the outer screw
thread of the disc, but this is so arranged that the part of the screw
where the chamfer b, commences reaches it just as the hook enters the

page_text: succeeding loop, and the chamfer not touching the pad allows the loop
to escape.
The needle arm vibrates once during every revolution of the hook,
and thus the needle passes twice through the cloth during the time that
one stitch is formed; but it must not be supposed that the two movements
of the needle form only one stitch, as the same operation is performed by
every movement of the needle and every revolution of the book a, but
the one stitch is commenced before the preceding one is finished, the
extension of the loop for the new stitch always drawing that preceding
loop tight in consequence of the bobbin F, being prevented by the
spring y, from turning and giving out more thread until the slack is all
drawn up by the rotating hook. The operation of the rotating hook
and needle continue as described until it is desired to stop, or the
thread from either bobbin gives out.
Previous to or during the early part of every descent of the needle
the cam T, comes into operation on the feed bar S, and spring k,
and moves the cloth the distance required for the next stitch; this
movement of the cloth causes the bobbin, F to unwind, and give out
enough thread for the next stitch. The end of the needle thread,
which has been described as being held by the attendant, may be re-
linquished by him, and the end of the thread from the bobbin F, may.
be released from between the spring u, and plate Q, after the first
stitch is finished, and the machine will continue its operation. This
machine being now fully described, the description of that illustrated
by Figures 7, to 11, will now be proceeded with.
All the working parts of this last-named machine are secured to a
frame B, C, which is bolted or otherwise to a table. The mandrel A,
is tubular, and rests in suitable bearings in the face plate B, and back
standard C, of the frame, carrying a whirl D, to which the driving
band is applied. Its interior is bored out to admit the bobbin E, of
common form, which takes the place of the bobbin F, of the first
described machine, carrying the back thread. It is also furnished with
a piston F, whose rod b, passes out through the back end. The bobbin
has a tubular centre, and is provided with a spring plate a, which en-

page_text: circles the thread and forms a shield to prevent if from becoming slack.
That portion of the periphery of the mandrel near the whirl D, is
turned eccentrically, and an eccentric ring 1, is fitted thereto; this ring
is connected by a rod m, with the shorter arm d, of a bent lever G,
which is pivoted at the intersection of its arms to the extremity of the
face plate B. The longer arm of this lever projects in a nearly hori-
zontal direction from its pivot, and is perforated near its extremity to
form an eye c, through which a thread from a bobbin H, is passed.
This bobbin is pivoted upon a stationary spindle, and is prevented from
turning too freely by a leather washer which is inserted between the
head of the bobbin and the adjacent face plate B, the said washer
doing the duty of the spring y, in the first machine. The lever carries
the needle e, at its extremity, the said needle being situated in the
vertical plane passing through the axis of the mandrel, and being
caused by the operation of the eccentric to move up and down as the
mandrel A, is turned. This needle is pierced near its lower extremity
to form an eye through which the thread from the eye c, is passed.
Immediately in front of the hollow mandrel A, is a small sta-
tionary mandrel I, whose axis is in the same right line as the
axis of the hollow mandrel, and whose extremity v, approaches the
adjacent extremity of the hollow mandrel. This stationary mandrel is
formed by the upper horizontal arm of a piece of wire, which is bent
into a form resembling a staple, and is pivoted at its middle in the
outer extremity of a horizontal arm J. This arm is screwed or other-
wise secured into the face plate, and projects at the inner side of the
face plate to form a traverse bar, to which a traverse block K, is
fitted. The block is secured to a shifting rod L, which slides through
a hole in the face plate, and is bent upwards at its hinder extremity,
which is secured to the projecting end of the piston rod b. The front
extremity of the shifting rod is also bent upwards to act upon the outer
end of the bobbin E, and its distance from the piston F, is a little
greater than the extreme length of the bobbin.. A reciprocating
movement is imparted to the shifting rod by an endless groove n,
formed in the outer periphery of the mandrel A, and acting upon a
traveller o, which is pivoted to the traverse block K.. This groove, if

page_text: extended upon a flat surface, would be of the form represented at
Figure 5, and as the hollow mandrel revolves the traveller is forced to
travel its whole extent in endless succession on; one portion of the
periphery of the mandrel the opposite extremities of the groove are
parallel, so that when these portions are passing the traveller the latter
remains at rest. On the remaining portion of the periphery the extre-
mities of the groove meet and intersect each other; consequently, when
these portions are passing the traveller will be alternately moved in
opposite directions, and will impart a corresponding movement to the
shifting rod, which in turn will move the piston alternately outwards
and inwards within the mandrel. As the piston moves outwards it
forces the bobbin before it upon the stationary mandrel, which enters
the tubular centre. When the movement of the shifting rod is re-
versed the piston is drawn inwards in its socket, and at the same time
the outer extremity of the shifting rod bearing against the outer
head of the bobbin draws the latter off the stationary mandrel, and
causes it to enter the socket in the hollow mandrel A. From the
shape of the groove on the barrel of the lathe mandrel the bobbin is
moved outwards at one revolution, and inwards at the succeeding one,
while the needle e, being operated upon by the eccentric is depressed
and raised at every revolution of the mandrel A. The outer extremity
of the mandrel A, has a screw thread f, formed upon the cylindrical
periphery, and this screw thread is cut away to form a hook 9, which
is substantially similar to the hook a, of the first machine, and performs
a similar duty, moving past the needle e, when it is about in its lowest
position, and engaging in the loop of the thread; as the hook continues to
revolve it draws down and extends the loop, the outer half of the latter
being extended in a straight line across the extremity of the mandrel,
while the inner half being engaged behind the screw thread is retained
upon the periphery of the mandrel. When the hook has accom-
plished about five eighths of a revolution from the needle the loop is of
sufficient size to permit the passage of the bobbin E, which is then
moved through it by the shifting rod. From the form of the groove
upon the barrel of the mandrel this movement of the bobbin is effected
while the mandrel is turning but a small fraction of a revolution, so

page_text: that the bobbin is completely through the loop before the hook g, com-
pletes its revolution. As the mandrel A, continues to turn, that
portion of the loop which was retained upon its cylindrical periphery,
being moved outwards by the action of the screw thread, slips off its
vanishing extremity, and passes between the adjacent extremities of the
revolving and stationary mandrels. Meanwhile the needle has been
raised by the action of the eccentric, and is again depressed to carry
down a loop of thread, which in its turn is extended around the
mandrel to permit the bobbin to be passed through it in a direction
the reverse of that in which it moved in passing through the preceding
loop. As the bobbin H, from which the loop thread is supplied is
prevented from turning freely by the action of the leather washer
before referred to it will not turn to give out more thread until the
hook g, in its revolution has drawn up all the slack thread of the pre-
ceding loop; hence the formation of each loop or stitch draws tight,
the preceding stitch. The cloth to be served is applied to the plate M,
the direction of the seam in this as in the other machine being parallel.
with the axis of the mandril. It is held firmly upon this plate by
means of a spring guard P, which is secured to the face plate, and has
a slot in its extremity through which the needle passes as it is moved up
and down. As the needle is moved upwards the cloth is moved out-
wards the length of a stitch to cause the needle to perforate it in a
new place by the action of a segment of a screw thread j, formed.
upon a collar, on the mandrel, which projects through a slot in the,
plate H, above.
When the machine is to be set at work the thread on the stationary.
bobbin H, is passed through the eye of the needle, and a driving band
is applied to the whirl D, by which the mandrel is caused to revolve
rapidly in the direction indicated by the arrow in Figure 7. The cloth
or material to be sewed is applied to the plate M, and has a continuous
seam formed in it by the interlacing of the thread upon the travelling
bobbin with that presented to it by the needle. When the thread upon
the travelling bobbin is exhausted the machine is stopped, the stationary
mandrel is turned outwards from the revolving mandrel, the, empty.
bobbin is removed, and a full one is substituted in its place; the

page_text: stationary mandrel is then turned inwards, and the revolving mandrel
again set in motion. The extremity of the lower arm of the staple-
formed wire I, engages in a notch in the face plate, and thus retains
the stationary mandrel in its proper position.
What is claimed in this Invention, and desired to be secured by
Letters Patent, is,―
. First. The combination, as comprehended in the machine illustrated
by Figures 1, to 6, of a bobbin, which is stationary in the line of its axis,
for carrying one thread, with a rotating hook wbich is of suitable form
or forms, part of a disc or its equivalent of suitable form, to extend the
loop in the other thread, and pass it completely over the said bobbin,
whereby the two threads are interlaced together, the parts being
severally arranged and operating in any way substantially as set forth.
Second. The combination of a rotating hook to extend the loop on
one thread, with a reciprocating bobbin to carry the other thread through
the loop so extended, for the purpose of interlacing the two threads
together, whether the parts be severally arranged and operates as
herein set forth, and illustrated in Figures 7, to 11, or in any other way
substantially the same.
Third. The feed motion of the machine illustrated by Figures
; to 6, for moving the cloth or material, and regulating the distance of
said movement, consisting of the feed bar S, the spring k, with its
teeth 1, the cam T, upon the mandrel, the spring n, and eccentric stop p,
the whole combined in any manner substantially as described.
Fourth. The hollow mandrel constructed substantially as herein set
forth and shown in Figures 7, to 11, with a groove in its periphery to
give a reciprocating motion to the bobbins, a segmental screw thread"
to feed the cloth forward as the sewing progresses, and a hook and
groove on its extremity to form loops on the needle thread in combina-
tion with a reciprocating bobbin, the whole arranged and operating
substantially as set forth:
.
Fifth. The tightening of each stitch by the extension of the loop in
forming the succeeding stitch as described and accomplished in both
machines.
Sixth. The pad v, of leather or other material applied in any way

page_text: substantially as described and shown in Figures 1, and 2, so as to pass
upon the disc or equivalent, of which the rotary hook forms part, and
prevent the hook slipping entirely off it before the succeeding loop is
caught by the hook, the said disc or equivalent being suitably formed
to free itself from contact with the pad at the proper time to release
the loop.
In witness whereof, I, the said Auguste Edouard Loradoux Bellford,
have hereunto set my hand and seal, the Fifth day of April,
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-three.
A. E. LORADOUX BELLFORD. (L.S.)