Improvements in Sewing Machinery for use in the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes.
Year: 1897

page_text: Date of Application, 9th Mar., 1897
Complete Specification Left, 14th Oct., 1897-Accepted, 22nd Jan., 1898
Improvements in Sewing Machinery for use in the Manufacture of
Boots and Shoes.
(A communication from abroad by JAMES WILLSON BROOKS, Gentleman, of Peter-
sham, in the State of Massachusetts, one of the United States of America.)
I, ALFRED GEORGE BROOKES, of 55 and 56, Chancery Lane, in the County of
London, Chartered Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature of this invention
to be as follows:-
This invention has for its object the production of a sewing machine for stitch-
ing with waxed thread a welt to the upper and inner sole in the manufacture of
welted shoes.
The improved machine employs a curved hooked needle carried by a toothed
segment, the said needle entering first the welt, then the upper and the inner sole
at a point near its edge, and emerging from a channel made in the face of the outer
sole, in which position it is supplied with thread carried by a circularly moving
thread presenter having a tubular or hollow shank, the thread presenter being
adapted to be rotated in one direction about the hooked end of the needle to supply
it with thread, the hook of the needle in its backward movement catching the
thread to draw it back through the work in the form of a loop, and during this
backward movement of the needle, the thread presenter is rotated in the opposite
direction to its starting point, it giving up the thread to the needle.
The rotation of the thread presenter is effected from a series of teeth at the
end of a horizontally vibrating lever, said engaging teeth in operative connection
with the thread presenter, the said lever deriving its movement from the cam on
the main shaft of the machine.
The thread presenter is mounted and turns in a stationary channel gauge or
foot, it having a hollow shank to receive the thread presenter, the end of said
gauge or foot entering a channel in the face of the inner sole and supporting the
latter in opposition to the thrust of the needle.
The needle is secured to a needle segment which derives its movement from a
series of teeth cut in the underside of a rack bar, said bar also having a series of
teeth at its upper side which are engaged by the teeth of a toothed sector lever,
the action of the toothed sector lever in connection with the teeth at the upper
end of said bar tending to always keep the teeth at the lower end thereof in correct
engagement with the teeth of the needle segment.
To receive and control a welt, a welt guide is employed it being attached to a
toothed segment having its pivot coinciding with the centre of motion of the
needle segment, the said welt guide segment being actuated also by a sliding bar
having at its underside two sets of rack teeth, one of said sets of teeth engaging
the segment, and the other set, located near the opposite end of the said bar,
being engaged by a bar-sliding toothed-segment, the latter segment being acted
upon by a spring which normally acts to so move the bar as to press the welt
гр.
077

page_text: guide in a yielding manner upon the upper lying against the head of the inner
sole, the said spring enabling the welt guide to adapt itself to varying thicknesses
in the upper.
The bar-sliding sector referred to has also combined with it devices under the
control of the foot of the operator to move it in a direction to cause the said sliding 5
toothed bar to turn the segment in a direction to remove it with its welt guide
away from the work when the shoe is being put through the machine.
The bar for actuating the toothed segment carrying the welt guide is provided
at its upperside farthest from said sector, with two sets of oppositely inclined
ratchet teeth, and one or the other of said sets are adapted to be engaged by one
or the other of two oppositely directed pawls carried by a lever, the said pawls
each having co-operating with it a wedge which serves to elevate the teeth of the
pawls from their engagement with the ratchet Teeth when the lever is moved in
one direction, but when the lever is moved in the opposite direction, to let said
pawls engage the said teeth and move the bar, one of said pawls acting to so
move the bar and the segment carrying the welt guide as to lock it in position
while the needle is entering the work, the other acting to move the bar in the
opposite direction and turn the welt guide away from the work for a uniform
distance, whatever may be the thickness of the upper, in order to leave the work
free to be fed for a new stitch.
The welt guide has at its underside a projecting lip which acts upon the upper
and presses or bends it snugly into the channel or corner made in the edge of the
sole.
'
1
2
The work is fed by means of a feed point or awl attached to the lower end of a
straight bar having at or near its upper end a series of teeth which are engaged 2
by the teeth of a block having a laterally extended shank which is entered loosely
into a hole in the end of a vertically vibrating lever actuated by a cam from the
main shaft.
This bar is fitted to slide vertically in a guideway of a block having at its rear
side a pivot which is extended through a suitable hole or bearing in a fixed part:
of the head or framework of the machine, the said pivot thereafter having attached
to it an arm which is provided with a roller or other stud that bears against a
cam projecting from one side of a cam hub fast on the main shaft, the said roller
being kept against said cam by a suitable spring, the vibration of the said block
by or through said cam, when the feed point or awl is in the work, causing the:
latter to be fed.
The feeding point or awl enters what is denominated the "between substance"
of the inner sole, that is, a portion of the inner sole between the two channels
made therein, one being at the edge and the other in the face of the sole, the feed
point or awl having been thrust into the "between substance" and having fed
it the length of the stitch, the said bar is elevated to withdraw the feed point or
awl therefrom, and the feed point or awl is returned into its starting position by
reverse movement of the block.
The feeding movement having been completed and the feed point or awl having
been carried into its normal position again, the welt guide is again moved into
position to cause it to act upon the upper and press it against the sole and then
the needle is thrust through the material and its point emerges from the channel
in the face of the sole, the needle crossing the thread between the work and the
thread presenter.
This done the thread presenter is then moved to wrap its thread about the needle
and the feeding point of the awl again enters the work, and the needle is started
backwardly, and as soon as the hook of the needle has taken firm hold of the
thread and the needle has substantially reached the material, the thread presenter
is moved backwardly so as to give up its thread completely to the control of the
needle, so that the latter as it is drawn back through the material may draw with
it freely one side of the loop which was measured off and held by the thread pre-
senter, the other half of the loop being readily taken from the take-up.

page_text: The take up may be a sheave or pulley carried at the end of a vibrating
arm this sheave comes forward to deliver up its thread as the needle draws its
loop backwardly through the work, and as the needle draws the loop fully out to
set the stitch, the take-up is moved upwardly to aid the needle in shortening the
loop in case there is more thread than is required' for the loop, the action of the
machine being such as to pull off enough thread at each operation of the needle
for the material of greatest thickness.
In the operation of this machine, the operator, holding the lasted shoe in his
hand, and with the feed point in its highest position and the needle retracted,
will depress the treadle referred to, and move forwardly the toothed bar withdraw-
ing the welt-guide with its lip.away from the lower end of the channel gauge or
foot, and will insert the work, after which he will remove his foot from the treadle,
and permit the said toothed bar to be moved backwardly, by or through the spring
acting on the sector thus enabling the work to be held between the welt-guide and
the channel gauge.
A welt having been put into the opening in the welt-guide, the machine will be
started and the needle will be thrust through the welt and upper, will enter the
edge of the sole, preferably at the bottom of a channel made by turning up a
portion of the sole-edge, and will emerge from the sole at the bottom of a second
channel formed in the sole farther in toward its longitudinal centre.
After the needle has fully entered the material, the feed point will descend and
enter the material preparatory to feeding the material after the needle shall have
been withdrawn from the material.
The needle having been retracted, and the welt guide moved to release the shoe,
the feeding awl is vibrated to feed the work, the needle yet holding its loop, and
during this feeding movement or prior to the needle being again thrust into the
work, the thread presenter is moved drawing the thread out of the path of the
needle.
The feed point having acted and been withdrawn from the shoe and put into
its normal position, and the welt guide having been moved to clamp the shoe,
the needle is again thrust through the material, and its point crosses the thread
and enters the open lower end of the thread presenter, and the feeding point again
enters the shoe, and the needle is then started backwardly, and as soon as the hook
of the needle gets firm hold of the thread and the hook of the needle has substan-
tially reached the material, the thread presenter is turned backwardly so as to
give up its thread to the needle, so that the latter as it is drawn back through the
material, may have one side of the loop measured off, and the other half of the
loop will be readily taken from the take-up which then comes forward and as
the needle draws the loop fully out to set the stitch, the take up is moved back-
wardly to aid the needle in shortening the loop, in case there is more thread than
required for the loop, the action of the machine being such as to pull out enough
thread at each operation of the needle for the material of greatest thickness.
After the feed point enters the between substance of the sole, the work is
released, in order that it may be properly fed, and to do this the pawl in the move-
ment of the lever acts upon the ratchet teeth and pushes the said ratchet toothed
bar forward sufficiently to turn the segment and withdraw the lip of the welt guide
sufficiently away from the end of the channel gauge, so that the work may be
moved freely, the needle being out of the material.
The feed having been effected by a rocking movement of the guide way in
which the straight bar slides, the loosely held block permitting this movement,
the lever will be moved in the opposite direction, and the pawl will be removed
from the ratchet teeth by a wedge and the pawl will pass the point of said wedge
and will engage with one of the ratchet teeth then immediately located at the
end of the said wedge.
One or the other of the ratchet teeth will be presented to the pawl, according
to the thickness of the upper, and having engaged the tooth of the said ratchet
the pawl will move the rack toothed bar backwardly, and in so doing will turn,

page_text: the segment and force the lip of the welt guide firmly against the upper, and the
bar will be locked in such position, the welt guide crowding the upper firmly into
the notch or shoulder of the sole at or close to the point where the needle at the
next thrust is to pass through the welt and upper in the act of uniting the welt
and upper to the between substance of the sole.
When the needle has hold of the thread and is drawing it through the material
to form a loop, the tension device is moved forward toward the needle fulcrum
sufficiently to aid in supplying the proper amount of thread, as stated, and at
the same movement the roller at the lower end of the take-up and about which
the thread passes from the stripper of the wax-box on its way about the tension
wheel acts to pull an additional amount of thread from the wax-box, and the
amount of thread so pulled out is increased by carrying the thread' through an eye
which may conveniently be fixed to the wax-pot.
The ertra thread between the take-up and tension roll and the wax-pot is
delivered by the roll only as the necessity of the sewing requires, and after the
needle shall have again re-entered the welt on its way into the upper and sole to
again be supplied with thread, the backward or reverse motion of the tension
device aids in taking up any slack thread and holding it ready to be again given
up to the requirements of the needle.
In the machine described, great pains have been taken to simplify the mechanism
and to arrange the same compactly in the smallest space possible.
The feed point. to feed the shoe, enters, the between--nhstance of the sole sub-
stantially centrally between the outer and inner channel, and said point enters
close to the right side of the needle, then in the between substance, it being under-
stood that the material is supposed to be fed from the right to the left.
Dated the 9th day of 1807
Improvements in Sewing Machinery for use in the Manufacture of
Boots and Shoes.
(A communication from abroad by JAMES WILLSON BROOKS, Gentleman, of Peter-
sham, in the State of Massachusetts, one of the United States of America.)
I, ALFRED GEORGE BROOKES, of 55 and 56, Chancery Lane, in the County of
London, Chartered Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature of this invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement:--
This invention has for its object the production of a sewing machine for stitch-
ing with waxed thread a welt to the upper and inner sole in the manufacture of
welted shoes.
The improved machine to be herein described and claimed employs a curved
.hooked needle carried by a toothed segment, the said needle entering first the welt,
then the upper and the inner sole at a point near its edge, and emerging from a
channel made in the face of the outer sole, in which position it is supplied with
thread carried by a circularly moving thread presenter, having a tubular or hollow
shank, the thread presenter being adapted to be rotated in one direction about the
hooked end of the needle to supply it with thread, the hook of the needle in its
backward movement catching the thread to draw it back through the work in
the form of a loop, and during this backward movement of the needle, the thread

page_text: presenter is rotated in the opposite direction to its starting point, it giving up
the thread to the needle.
The rotation of the thread presenter is effected from a series of teeth at the end
of a horizontally vibrating lever, said engaging teeth being in operative connection
with the thread presenter, the said lever deriving its movement from the cam on
the main shaft of the machine.
The thread presenter is mounted and turns in a stationary channel gauge or
foot, it having a hollow shank to receive the thread presenter, the end of said
gauge or foot entering a channel in the face of the inner. sole and supporting the
latter in opposition to the thrust of the needle.
The needle is secured to a needle segment which derives its movement from a
series of teeth cut in the underside of a rack bar, said bar also having a series of
teeth at its upper side which are engaged by the teeth of a toothed sector lever,
the action of the toothed sector lever in connection with the teeth at the upper
end of said bar tending to always keep the teeth at the lower end thereof in correct
engagement with the teeth of the needle segment.
•
To receive and control a welt, a welt guide is employed, it being attached to a
toothed segment having its pivot coinciding with the centre of motion of the
needle segment, the said welt guide segment being actuated also by a sliding bar
having at its underside two sets of rack teeth, one of said sets of teeth engaging
the segment, and the other set, located near the opposite end of the said bar,
being engaged by a bar-sliding toothed-segment, the latter segment being acted
upon by a spring which normally acts to so move the bar as to press the welt
guide in a yielding manner upon the upper lying against the head of the inner
sole, the said spring enabling the welt guide to adapt itself to varying thicknesses
in the upper.
The bar-sliding sector referred to has also combined with it devices under the
control of the foot of the operator to move it in a direction to cause the said sliding
toothed bar to turn the segment in a direction to remove it with its welt guide
away from the work when the shoe is being put through the machine.
The bar for actuating the toothed segment carrying the welt guide is provided
at its upperside farthest from said sector, with two sets of oppositely inclined
ratchet teeth, and one or the other of said sets are adapted to be engaged by one
or the other of two oppositely directed pawls carried by a lever, the said pawls
each having co-operating with it a wedge which serves to elevate the teeth of the
pawls from their engagement with the ratchet teeth when the lever is moved in
one direction, but when the lever is moved in the opposite direction, to let said
pawls engage the said teeth and move the bar, one of said pawls acting to so
move the bar and the segment carrying the welt guide as to lock it in position
while the needle is entering the work, the other acting to move the bar in the
opposite direction and turn the welt guide away from the work for a uniform
distance, whatever may be the thickness of the upper, in order to leave the work
free to be fed for a new stitch.
The welt guide has at its underside a projecting lip which acts upon the upper
and presses or bends it snugly into the channel or corner made in the edge of the
sole.
The work is fed by means of a feed point or awl attached to the lower end of a
straight bar having at or near its upper end a series of teeth which are engaged
by the teeth of a block having a laterally extended shank which is entered loosely
into a hole in the end of a vertically vibrating lever actuated by a cam from the
main shaft.
This bar is fitted to slide vertically in a guideway of a block having at its rear
side a pivot which is extended through a suitable hole or bearing in a fixed part
of the head or framework of the machine, the said pivot thereafter having attached
to it an arm which is provided with a roller or other stud that bears against a
cam projecting from one side of a cam hub fast on the main shaft, the said roller
being kept against said cam by a suitable spring, the vibration of the said block

page_text: by or through said cam, when the feed point or awl is in the work, causing the
latter to be fed.
The feeding point or awl enters what is denominated the "between substance"
of the inner sole, that is, a portion of the inner sole between the two channels
made therein, one being at the edge and the other in the face of the sole, the feed
point or awl having been thrust into the "between substance" and having fed
it the length of the stitch, the said bar is elevated to withdraw the feed point or
awl therefrom, and the feed point or awl is returned into its starting position by
reverse movement of the block.
The feeding movement having been completed and the feed point or awl having
been carried into its normal position again, the welt guide is again moved into
position to cause it to act upon the upper and press it against the sole and then
the needle is thrust through the material and its point emerges from the channel
in the face of the sole, the needle crossing the thread between the work and the
thread presenter.
This done the thread presenter is then moved to wrap its thread about the needle
and the feeding point of the awl again enters the work, and the needle is started
backwardly, and as soon as the hook of the needle has taken firm hold of the
thread and the needle has substantially reached the material, the thread presenter
is moved backwardly so as to give up its thread completely to the control of the
neelle, so that the latter as it is drawn back through the material may draw with
it freely one side of the loop which was measured off and held by the thread pre-
senter, the other half of the loop being readily taken from the take-up.
The take-up is shown as a sheave or pulley carried at the end of a vibrating
arm. This sheave comes forward to deliver up its thread as the needle draws its
loop backwardly through the work, and as the needle draws the loop fully out to
set the stitch, the take-up is moved upwardly to aid the needle in shortening the
loop in case there is more thread than is required for the loop, the action of the
machine being such as to pull off enough thread at each operation of the needle
for the material of greatest thickness.
DESCRIPTION OF TILE DRAWINGS.
Fig. 1 is a right hand side elevation of a sufficient portion of a sewing machine
containing my invention to enable it to be understood, the main shaft having been
cut in section and the balance wheel omitted.
Fig. 2 is a left hand side elevation thereof, some of the parts being partially
broken out, said Fig. showing part of the driving wheel and that of a shoe in
position.
Fig. 2, is a detail to be described.
Fig. 3, an enlarged detail showing the channel gauge or foot constituting the
work rest, with the rotatable thread presenter.
Figs. 47 inclusive are details showing the action of the parts in the formation
of the stitch.
A is the supporting framing, supporting a head or upper part A' which carries
a shaft A³.
This shaft has two cam hubs or blocks B and C. The hub C has a cam groove c,
shown by dotted lines Fig. 2, to rereive a roller or other stud *mounted on and so
as to actuate a lever or pawl carrier c', having its fulcrum at e³, and provided with
two oppositely directed or pointed spring pressed pawls c³, c, adapted to engage
at times respectively ratchet teeth c³, c, of a bar 7 having at its underside suitable
rack teeth 20 to engage teeth of a segment c³, to which is connected in suitable
manner, as by a bolt c³, a welt guide co having a lip or edge c¹ to bear against the
upper u of the shoe, see Fig. 2, and press it firmly and snugly against the sole,
and, as shown, into the channel made in the edge of the sole s close to the point
where the needle to be described, is to enter the upper.
The bar, as shown, has at its underside near its outer end rack teeth which
are engaged by the teeth of a sector d, having its fulcrum at d', and provided with

page_text: a lug or finger which is adapted to be acted upon by a guide rod
jointed at ³
to an arm, fast on a rack-shaft d³, having a second arm jointed to a rod 30
attached in practice to the rear end of a treadle, not shown, but of usual construc-
tion, it being pivoted between its ends on a stand attached to the base of the
machine, the front end of the treadle being normally kept elevated by a suitable
spring, all as usual.
A spring supported at one end against a lug extended from the framework
and acting at its other end upon a headed pin, causes said pin to be brought against
the sector d, said spring normally acting to move the sector in the direction to
move the bar in the direction to keep the welt guide pressed against the upper
with a yielding pressure, so that the said welt guide may readily adapt itself to
any variation in thickness of the upper.
The sector is designated in the claims as the bar-sliding sector.
The welt guide is removed from the upper preparatory to feeding the shoe and
said guide is always moved away from the upper for a definite distance by the
pawl no matter what the thickness of the upper.
The hub B has a groove b, which receives a roller, or other stud, on a lever bl
pivotted at and carrying at its other end a stud on which is mounted a tension
and take-up wheel 4, about which the thread 65, taken from a suitable wax-pot be,
is led, the said thread going from the said tension wheel over a sheave b
mounted on a stand 68, (see Fig. 1) the thread being then led through a hole bored
in the framework, down outside the channel gauge or foot g, it constituting a
stationary work-support and into the same through a hole 3, where it is presented
to be taken by the point of the thread presenter h¹.
The thread presenter h¹ is shown as a hollow tube fitted to be turned about within
the shank of the channel gauge or foot, made also as a tube g, with a finger-like
extension g¹ to enter the channel and constitute a rest for the sole against the
thrust of the needle n.
The thread presenter ¹ may be moved in the following manner, i.e. its upper end
may have a bevel pinion h³ Fig. 3, engaged by a like pinion at the end of a
rod having its bearing in a stand, the rod having attached to its upper end
a pinion, which may be engaged by the teeth of a toothed sector 7, forming
part of a lever h³, having its hub pivotted at ho and provided with a roller or other
stud 10, which enters a suitable groove made in the periphery of the hub B.
The needle is secured to a needle segment n', which derives its movement from
teeth at the underside of a rack bar m² actuated by the teeth of a toothed sector n³,
having its fulcrum at nt, and having a roller or other stud n³, which enters a cam
grooven, see dotted lines Fig. 2, cut in the side of the hub C, the teeth of the
said sector engaging the teeth at the upper side of said rack bar, and in action the
sector presses on said bar in a direction to always maintain the teeth at the under-
side of said rack bar in engagement with the teeth of the needle segment.
The shoe is fed by means of a feed point m attached to the lower end of a straight
bar m², provided at its upper end with teeth, which are engaged by the teeth of
a block m³, having a segmental series of teeth and provided with a shank m³, which
enters loosely a hole in one end of a lever m², having its fulcrum at nt, and provided
with an extension carrying a roller or other stud m³, which enters a cam groove m³,
shown by full lines Fig. 2, in cam C.
The bar m¹ is fitted to slide vertically in a guiding block or way m², having at
its rear side a pivot m³, which takes a suitable bearing in a fixed part of the head A¹,
the said pivot having attached to it an arm m³, provided with a roller or other
stud mo, which bears against a cam face made at one side of the hub B, the said
roll being kept against said cam by a suitable spring m¹, see Fig. 2ª, acted upon
by a screw m, the said feed point or awl m working in a path which crosses the
arc in which the needle works and entering the between substance.
The segmental arm d is acted upon by a spring-pressed pin , said pin restoring
the arm and bar & into their normal position after the foot of the operator has

page_text: been removed from the treadle referred to, the operator having introduced the
shoe into position to be stitched.
The two segments and n¹, have a common fulcrum o, and in practice the needle
has a steadying device or guide p, shown by dotted lines Fig. 2, provided with a
hole through which the needle works, said guide being commonly used with curved
needles, the said guide steadying the needle as it enters the work, and while it is
coming out, all in usual or known manner.
The wax-pot is heated by steam led into it from a suitable pipe, not shown, and
a steam pipe is then led therefrom through a block which it heats, the tension
device bearing against and being heated thereby, the pipe continuing above said
block and over to the opposite side of the machine, see Fig. 1, where said pipe is
marked, said pipe heating a collar surrounding the channel gauge g, the pipe
being then led in any usual or suitable manner back to the steam, box, heating
the same.
I
The pawl is lifted from the ratchet teeth by acting against the wedge t¹,
and the pawl by acting against the wedge t.
gauge
In the operation of this machine, the operator, holding the lasted shoe in his
hand, and with the feed point in its highest position and the needle retracted, will
depress the treadle referred to, and move forwardly the toothed bar c, withdraw-
ing the welt-guide with its lip away from the lower end g' of the channel
or foot, and will insert the work in the position shown in Fig. 2. after which he
will remove his foot from the treadle, and permit the toothed har to be moved
backwardly, by or through the spring & acting on the sector d, thus enabling the
work to be held between the welt-guide and the channel_ gauge.
A welt having been put into the opening w, shown in Fig. 1, in the welt-guide,
the machine will be started and the needle n will be thrust through tho welt and
upper, will enter the edge of the sole,--preferably at the bottom of a channel made
by turning up a portion of the sole-edge, and will emerge from the sole at the
bottom of a second channel formed in the sole farther in toward its longitudinal
centre.
After the needle has fully entered the material, the feed point will descend and
enter the material preparatory to feeding the material after the needle shall have
been withdrawn from the material.
Viewing Figs. 4 to 7, it will be seen in Fig. 4 that the needle has been retracted
and is yet in engagement with the loop of thread which has just been drawn by
it through the sole, upper and welt, and that the hook of the thread presenter h¹
is in its normal or starting position.
The needle having been substantially fully retracted, and the welt guide moved
to release the shoe, the feeding awl occupying the position Fig. 2, is vibrated to
feed the work in the direction of the arrow 2, Fig. 4, the needle yet holding its
loop, and during this feeding movement or prior to the needle being again thrust
into the work, the thread presenter is moved from its normal position Fig. 4, into
substantially the position Fig. 5, thus drawing the thread out of the path of the
needle.
The feed point having acted and been withdrawn from the shoe and put into its
normal position, and the welt guide having been moved to clamp the shoe, the
needle is again thrust through the material, and its point crosses the thread and
enters the open lower end of the thread presenter, substantially as in Fig. 6, and
the feeding point again enters the shoe, and the needle is then started backwardly,
and as soon as the hook of the needle gets firm hold of the thread and the hook
of the needle has substantially reached the material, the thread presenter is turned
backwardly so as to give up its thread to the needle, so that the latter as it is
drawn back through the material, may have one side of the loop measured off, and
the other half of the loop will be readily taken from the take-up which then comes
forward, and as the needle draws the loop fully out to set the stitch, the take-up
is moved backwardly to aid the needle in shortening the loop, in case there is more
thread than is required for the loop, the action of the machine being such as to

page_text: pull out enough thread at each operation of the needle for the material of greatest
thickness.
After the feed point enters the between substance of the sole, the work must be
released, in order that it may be properly fed, and to do this the pawl ³ in the
movement of the lever c' acts upon the ratchet teeth and pushes the bar c² forward
sufficiently to turn the segment and withdraw the lip of the welt guide
sufficiently away from the end of the channel gauge, so that the work may be
moved freely, the needle being out of the material.
The feed having been effected by a rocking movement of the guide m', in which
the bar m¹ slides, the loosely held block permitting this movement, the lever c¹ will
be moved in the opposite direction, and the pawl will be removed from the ratchet
teeth by the wedge t, and the pawl will pass the point of its wedge t and will
engage with one of the ratchet teeth then immediately located at the end of the
said wedge.
One or the other of the ratchet teeth c will be presented to the pawl, according
to the thickness of the upper, and having engaged the tooth of the said ratchet co,
the pawl will move the bar c backwardly, and in so doing will turn the segment c³
and force the lip c¹s of the welt guide firmly against the upper, and the bar will
be locked in such position, the welt guide crowding the upper firmly into the notch
or shoulder of the sole at or close to the point where the needle at the next thrust
is to pass through the welt and upper in the act of uniting the welt and upper to
the between substance of the sole.'
When the needle has hold of the thread and is drawing it through the material
to form a loop, the tension device 6 is moved forward toward the needle fulcrum
sufficiently to aid in supplying the proper amount of thread, as stated, and at the
same movement the roller 620 at the lower. end of the take-up and about which the
thread passes from the stripper 681 of the wax-box on its way about the tension
wheel 6, acts to pull an additional amount of thread from the wax-box, and the
amount of thread so pulled out is increased by carrying the thread through an
eye 23, shown as fixed to the wax-pot.
The extra thread between the take-up and tension roll and the wax-pot is
delivered by the roll only as the necessity of the sewing requires, and after the
needle shall have again re-entered the welt on its way into the upper and sole to
again be supplied with thread, the backward or reverse motion of the tension
device aids in taking up any slack thread and holding it ready to be again given
up to the requirements of the needle.
In the machine herein shown and described, I have taken great pains to simplify
the mechanism and to arrange the same compactly in the smallest space possible.
The feed point, to feed the shoe, enters, it will be seen, the between-substance of
the sole substantially centrally between the outer and inner channel, and said
point enters close to the right side of the needle, then in the between substance, it
being understood that the material is fed from the right to the left, as herein shown.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is;-
-
1. The use in a sewing machine, of a needle segment having an attached hooked
needle, the said segment being actuated by a straight bar toothed at its underside
to engage the segment and toothed at its upper side to be actuated by a vibrating
toothed sector lever, the action of the toothed sector lever upon the teeth at one
edge of said bar tending to keep the teeth at the lower edge thereof in correct
engagement with the teeth of the segment carrying the needle, substantially as
described.
2. The use in a sewing machine, of a welt guide segment, having an attached
welt guide, the teeth of said segment being engaged by the teeth of a sliding bar
having two sets of rack teeth, a bar-sliding toothed-sector, a sliding bar having
two sets of rack teeth, one of which is engaged by the bar-sliding toothed-sector

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while the other of said sets of teeth engage the welt guide segment, a spring to
cause said sliding bar to keep the welt guide against the upper, and means to
actuate the said bar-sliding toothed-sector, to cause the sliding bar to remove the
welt guide from the work when the latter is taken from the machine, substantially
as described.
3. The use in a sewing machine of the following instrumentalities, viz:-the
hooked needle, a toothed segment carrying it, a stationary inwardly inclined
channel gauge or foot to enter the channel in the face of the sole and sustain the
material in opposition to the thrust of the needle, said gauge having a hollow
shank and receiving a rotatable thread presenter, a welt guide holding a welt and
acting at its underside against the upper to press the same closely into a channel
or against a shoulder made at the edge of the said sole, a segment to which said
welt is attached, and means to move said segments to operate, substantially as
described.
4. The use in a sewing machine of the following instrumentalities, viz.:-a
curved hooked needle, a toothed segment to which it is attached, and a stationary
inclined channel or foot to enter a channel cut in the face of the inner sole and
sustain it in opposition to the needle, a straight slide bar having a feeding point
or awl, which in its movements crosses the arc in which the needle works, said
point or awl entering the between substance of the sole to feed the same, an inde-
pendent welt guide to act upon the upper and press it firmly in contact with the
channel or coiner made in the edge of the sole, and means to automatically release
the pressure of the welt guide from the upper preparatory to the feeding operation,
substantially as describeil.
5. The use in a sewing machine of the following instrumentalities, viz.:-a welt
guide, a toothed segment upon which said welt guide is mounted, a bar having
teeth in engagement with the teeth of the said segment, said bar having two sets
of ratchet teeth, means to reciprocate said bar, and a movable carrier having two
oppositely directed or pointed pawls adapted to engage each with the teeth of the
said bar to move and lock the same firmly, as and for the purposes set forth.
6. In a sewing machine the following instrumentalities, viz.—a channel gauge
or foot composed of a tube having a finger or extension to enter the channel, a
thread presenter mounted in the tubular part of the said gauge or foot, a hooked
needle adapted to present its end in position to receive a thread from the thread
presenter, means to impart to the said thread presenter a rotary reciprocating move-
ment that it may present the thread to the needle in the formation of the stitch
and give up slack thread to the needle when the latter is being retracted, substan-
tially as described.
7. The use in a sewing machine of the following instrumentalities, viz.:-a
pivotally mounted guideway, means to oscillate the said guideway, a toothed bar
placed in said guideway and provided at its lower end with a feed point or awl,
a lever, means to move it, and a toothed sector pivotally mounted on the ends of
said lever and in engagement with the teeth of the said bar to reciprocate it, sub-
stantially as described.
8. The use in a sewing machine of a rigid stationary channel gauge or foot to
enter the channel of the face of the inner sole, a welt guide segment, its attached
welt guide, a sliding rack bar having teeth to engage the teeth of said segment, a
bar-sliding toothed sector, a spring to normally keep said welt guide pressed toward
the upper, said spring adapting the welt guide. to variations in the thickness of the
upper, substantially as described.
gauge
or foot
hooked needle,
a welt guide,
*9. The use of an inwardly inclined stationary channel
to enter the channel in the face of the inner sole, a
its toothed segment, means to move the said segment,
$ toothed segment to which it is attached, a toothed operating bar
engaging said welt segment, means to normally press the said bar with a yielding
pressure in the direction to keep the welt guide against the upper, feeding mechanism
containing a straight feeding point or awl, to enter the material, and means to

page_text: act on said sliding bar to effect the removal of the welt guide from the welt for
a uniform distance after each stitch to whatever may be the thickness of the upper
and preparatory to feeding the shoe, substantially as described.
10. The use in a sewing machine of a guideway pivotted between its ends, a
toothed bar, free to slide in said guideway and provided with a feeding point or
awl, a lever having a segmental toothed block pivotally mounted thereon and
engaging the teeth of the said bar, means to move said lever and means to oscillate
said guideway with its contained bar, whereby the said bar is moved laterally
while the feeding point or awl is in the work to thus feed the same, substantially
as described.
WM. BROOKES & SON,
55 & 56, Chancery Lane, London, Agents for the Applicant.