IMPROVEMENTS IN TRIMMING OR ORNAMENTING WOVEN FABRICS AND IN THE MACHINERY USED THEREFOR
Year: 1874

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Leopold Salomons, of Friday Street, Cheapside,
in the City of London, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN
TRIMMING OR ORNAMENTING WOVEN FABRICS AND IN THE MACHINERY
USED THEREFOR.”—A communication from abroad by Jean Pierre
Eyssautier and Pierre Marie Joseph Eyssautier, both of Paris and
Lyons, in the Republic of France.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Leopold Salomons at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on
the 25th July 1874.
I, LEOPOLD SALOMONS, of Friday Street, Cheapsido, in the City of
London, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for ❝IM-
PROVEMENTS IN TRIMMING OR ORNAMENTING WOVEN FABRICS AND IN THE MACHINERY
USED THEREFOR," a communication to me from abroad by Jean Pierre
Eyssautier and Pierre Marie Joseph Eyssautier, both of Paris and
Lyons, in the Republic of France, to be as follows:-
This Invention relates to the trimming or ornamenting of woven
fabrics (whether broad or narrow) and garments with beads, bugles, or

page_text: other similar ornamental appendages, and has for its object enabling
such ornaments to be applied to or incorporated with the fabric or
garment during and by the operation of weaving the same in lieu of
their being subsequently attached by the ordinary method of hand
sewing. This object is effected by a peculiar construction and arrange-
ment of the slay of a loom (or its equivalent in other classes of weaving
machinery), and by the employment of suitable devices in combination
therewith, as heroin-after described.
According to one mode of carrying out this Invention the frame of
the slay is divided transversely into two portions, an upper and a lower,
one of which, say the lower portion for examplo, is formed with the
usual number of dents for a given width of reed at the ordinary distance
apart, whilst the upper portion is either wholly unprovided with dents
or formed with a less number, simply for the purpose of more firmly
uniting the upper and lower portions of the slay frame. The dents are:
welded or otherwise connected together in sets of, say six, cight, or any
„suitable number so as to leave a free space between any two adjacent
sets in communication with the upper portion of the slay, the number
of such intervening spaces corresponding to the number of rows of beads
(for example) which it is desired to apply to or weave into the garment
or fabric. Opposito to these intervening spaces there are disposed a
series of pins, arranged in pairs, which pins are attached at one end to
the upper side of the slay frame, whilst their lower extremity is free and
slightly overlaps the dents of the slay, the space between the two pins
of each pair communicating with the space left between the different
sets of dents.
In operating with this apparatus beads are strung or threaded on a
certain number of the threads (corresponding to the number of rows of
beads to be applied) on the warp beam side of the slay, which bead
threads are passed through the intervening spaces between the different
sets of dents, the remainder of the warp threads being passed through the
dents in the ordinary manner.
When the bead threads are elevated under the action of the treadles
during the process of weaving they are raised into the upper part of the
reed, and under the inclination of the thread thus produced a bead on
each of the elevated bead threads is caused to separate from the series of
beads strung on the threads, and descend, passing between the pins

page_text: herein-before described (which form bead guides) and the reed to the
opposite side of the latter, and the threads being then depressed the
beads are beaten up with the weft into the garment or fabric in course
of manufacture.
In lieu of causing the beads to descend they may be supplied and
transferred to the opposite side of the slay by an upward motion of the
threads if desired. The upper portion of the slay frame forming the
bead guide may be made separate from the reed proper, and attached in
various ways, as for example, the bead guide may be secured by two
O strips of metal to the two edges of the slay or to the lay or batten, or it
may be connected by a hinge or joint with the slay frame.
When it is desired that the total number of warp threads should be
provided with beads, the whole of the slays may be left free at their
upper ends so as to admit of the threads being raised above, and out of
5 the slays for the purpose of admitting of the passage of the beads. In
this case the bead guide is made of the form of a comb, the teeth corre-
"
sponding to the dents, but when a loss number of rows of beads is
required a metal plate having slots of a corresponding number to the
rows of beads may be employed in substitution for the comb.
When the bead guide is attached to the slay frame by a hinge or
joint, as herein-before mentioned, it is arranged in the following
manner, viz. :—To the bead guide there is secured one extremity of a
rocking lever, which lever is passed through a loop or eye formed on a
support attached to the slay, and its outer extremity is connected to the
3 treadles by a helical spring. The pins of the bead guide are maintained
in their normal position at a certain distance from the reed by means of
a spring welded or otherwise secured to one side of the hinge, but
when the apparatus is operated under the action of the treadles the lover
may be raised to the extent allowed by the shape of the eye or loop, and
the guide turning on its joint or hinge the pins are forced towards tho
reed, depressing the spring which maintains the bead guide, and leaving
only a sufficient space for the passage of the beads...
Hy wi
.
: : :
The connection with the treadles may be adjusted to suit the size of
the beads, and by adopting two or more: rocking levers varying, tho
heights and form of the supports, and operating. such rocking lovers
alternately various sized spaces may be obtained, which arrangement

page_text: will enable beads of different sizes to be alternately woven in by the use
of the samo guide.
3
It is also proposed to employ in combination with this apparatus a
bead "pusher" consisting of a plate which is disposed between the
surface of the slay frame and the bead guide, and is connected by springs
to the lower end of the reed frame and above by cords with the treadles.
When the cords are drawn under the action of the treadles the "pusher”
is raised clear of the bead passage, and tho beads having entered between
the pins and the reed the cords are then slackened, and the springs
coming into operation the "pusher" is caused to descend, which forces 1
or drives the beads along to the opposite side of the slay. This arrange-
ment effectually ensures the traverse of the beads which would otherwise
be liable to remain engaged or confined in the space between the pins
and the slays, and thus impede the progress of the operation.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Leopold Salomons in the Great Seal Patent Office
on the 25th January 1875.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, LEOPOLD
SALOMONS, of Friday Street, Cheapside, in the City of London, send
greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Twenty-fifth day of July, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-four, in the thirty-
eighth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, givo
and grant unto me, the said Leopold Salomons, Her special licence that
I, the said Leopold Salomons, my executors, administrators, and assigns,
or such others as I, the said Leopold Salomons, my executors, adminis-
trators, or assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from
time to time and at all times thereafter during the term therein
expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend,
within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel
Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN TRIMMING
OR ORNAMENTING WOVEN FABRICS AND IN THE MACHINERY USED THEREFOR," a com-
munication to me from abroad by Jean Pierre Eyssautier and Pierro
ย

page_text: Mario Joseph Eyssautier, both of Paris and Lyons, in the Republic of
France, upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said Leopold
Salomons, my executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing
under my hand and seal, should particularly describe and ascertain the
nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be
performed, and cause the samo to be filed in the Great Seal Patent
Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the date
of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Leopold Salomons, do hereby declare
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement, reference being had to the accompanying
Drawings, and to the letters and figures marked thereon, that is to
say :-
The said Invention relates to the trimming or ornamenting of woven
fabrics (whether broad or narrow), and garments with boads, bugles, or
other similar ornamental appendages, and has for its object enabling
such ornaments to be applied to or incorporated with the fabric or
garment during, and by the operation of weaving the same, in lieu of
their being subsequently attached by the ordinary method of hand
sewing. This object is effected by a peculiar construction and arrange-
ment of the slay of a loom (or its equivalent in other classes of weaving
machinery), and by the employment of suitable devices in combination
therewith, as herein-after described.
And in order that the said Invention may be fully understood, I shall
now proceed more particularly to describe the same, and for that purpose
shall refer to the several Figures on the annexed Sheet of Drawings,
the same letters of reference indicating corresponding parts in all tho
Figures.
Figure 1 of the Drawings represents a front elevation of a slay
constructed according to one mode of carrying out this Invention, and
Figure 2 is an end view of the same.
a is the frame of the slay which is divided transversely into two
portions, videlicet, an upper portion 6 and a lower portion c by the
partition d, the lower portion c being formed with the usual number of
dents for a given width of slay at the ordinary distance apart, whilst
the upper portion is wholly unprovided with dents; vertical bars c

page_text: may however be formed at this part if necessary for the purpose of
more firmly uniting the upper and lower portions of the slay frame.
The dents are welded or otherwise connected together in sets of, say six,
eight, or any other suitable number by means of the partition d, so as to
leave a free space between any two adjacent sets in communication with
the upper portion of the slay, as shewn at f, the dents which form theso
spaces being by preference slightly extended beyond the partition d, and
bent out as shewn; the number of these intervening spaces correspond to
the number of rows of beads (for example) which it is desired to apply
to or weave into the garment or fabric. Opposite to the spaces f thero
are disposed a series of pins 7 arranged in pairs, which pins are attached
at one end to the upper side of the slay frame, whilst their lower
extremity is free, and slightly overlaps the dents of the slay, the space
between tho two pins of cach pair communicating with the space ƒ left
between the different sets of dents.
In operating with this apparatus the beads are strung or threaded
on a certain number of the warp threads i (corresponding to the number
of rows of beads to be applied), as shown in the perspective view,
Figure 3, which threads may be either wound on to the warp beam
with the other warp threads or on to a separate beam as desired. The
warp threads which carry the boads are passed through the spaces ƒ
between the different sets of dents, the remainder of the warp & being
passed through the dents in the ordinary manner.
When the bend threads i or one or more of them (according to the
pattern to be obtained are elevated under the action of the harness or
other lifting gear, during the process of weaving, they are raised into tho
upper part of the slay, and under the inclination of the thread thus
produced the beads are caused to descend and come into contact with tho
pins ; the threads being subsequently depressed a bead on each of the
elevated bead threads is caused to separate from the series of beads
strung on the threads, and descend, passing between the pins y (which
form guides for the beads) and the partition d to the opposite side of the
slay, after which the beads are beaten up with the weft into the web in
course of manufacture.
In the accompanying Drawings the pins are shown as applied to the
front of the slay, but in lieu of this arrangement they may if preferred
be fitted at the back thereof, in which case the beads would be supplied

page_text: and transferred to the opposite side of the slay, by the act of elevating
the threads instead of during their descent.
The upper portion 6 of the slay frame forming the bead guide may be
made separate from the slay proper c, as shewn in Figures 4, 5, 6, 7, 8,
and 9, and attached in various ways; as for example, the bead guide
may be secured by two strips of metal to the two edges of the slay or to
the lay or batten (which arrangements I have not thought it necessary
to illustrate on the accompanying Drawings), or it may be connected by
a hinge or joint with the slay frame, as shewn in Figures 8 and 9..
When it is desired that the total number of warp threads should be
provided with beads, the whole of the dents may be left free at their
upper ends, as shewn in Figure 4, so as to admit of the threads being
raised above and out of the dents for the purpose of admitting of the
passage of the beads. In this case the bead guide 6 is made in the form
of a comb, as shewn in Figure 5, the teeth corresponding to the dents,
but when a less number of rows of beads is required the slay may be
made, as shewn in Figure 6, and a metal plate b, Figure 7, having slots
corresponding in number to the spaces f, Figure 6, may be employed in
substitution for the comb, Figure 5.
g
When the bead guide 6 is attached to the slay c by a hinge or joint,
as hercin-before-mentioned, it is arranged in the manner illustrated in
Figures 8 and 9, which represent a back elevation and end view
respectively. The bead guide b, carrying the pins g, is jointed to the slay
frame a by means of the hinge pin k', and it has formed on or attached
to it a lever arm which passes through a loop or eye m formed on a
support n secured to the slay, the outer extremity of such lever arm
being connected to the treadle or other apparatus for operating the
lifting gear by a helical spring o. The pins are maintained in their
normal position at a certain distance from the slay by means of a spring p,
attached to the bead guide b, and bearing against the slay frame'a, but
at the time of operating the mechanism under the action of the treadles
or lifting gear, the lever arm is raised to the extent allowed by the
shape of the eye or loop m, and the guide b, turning on its binge pin k³,
the pins are forced towards the partition d, depressing the spring p and
leaving only a sufficient space for the passage of the beads..
. :
The connection with the treadles or lifting gear may be adjusted to
suit the size of the beads, and by adopting two or more lever arms,

page_text: varying the heights and form of the supports, and operating such lever
arms alternately, various sized spaces may be obtained, which arrange-
ment will enable beads of different sizes to be alternately woven in by
the use of the same guide.
It is obvious that the space between the pins and the partition d
may also be so regulated as to admit of the passage of two or more beads
on each thread simultaneously if desired.
Figure 10 shews the application of an apparatus which I designate a
bead "pusher," and which may be employed in combination with the
improved slay and the bead guide in order to facilitate the passage of the
beads. The apparatus consists of a plate q which is disposed between the
surface of the slay frame a and the pins (or their equivalent, as hercin-
before described), and is connected by helical springs ", ", (or by cords
and blade springs) to the lower end of the slay frame a, and above by
cords 8, 8, with the treadles or lifting gear. When the cords 8, 8, are
drawn under the action of the treadles or lifting gear the "pusher" q is
raised clear of the bead passage; the beads then fall into contact with the
pins 9, and the cords s, s, being slackened, such beads enter between the
pins and the partition d; the springs ", ", at the same time come into
operation, and the "pusher" is caused to descend, which has the effect
of forcing or driving the beads along to the opposite side of the slay.
This arrangement effectually ensures the traverse of the beads, which
would otherwise be liable to remain engaged or confined in the space
between the pins and the slay, and thus impede the progress of the
operation.
I
1
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of the
said Invention, and the manner in which the same is or may be used or
carried into effect, I would observe in conclusion that what I consider
to be novel and original, and therefore claim as the Invention secured
to me by the herein-before in part recited Letters Patent is,-
First. The application and use of a slay so constructed and arranged
ás to admit of the warp threads or some of them, being raised or moved
clear and out of the dents, in combination with a slotted plate or with
pins or teeth formed on the slay or on an attachment thereto or to tho
batten, the whole substantially in the manner and for the purposes
herein-before described, and as illustrated by the accompanying
Drawings.

page_text: Second. The hinging or attaching of the before-mentioned pins or
teeth or their equivalents to the slay in such a manner as to admit of
their distance therefrom being varied or regulated as required, sub-
stantially as and for the purposes herein-before described, and as
illustrated by the accompanying Drawings.
Third. The application and use to and with a slay, formed and fitted
as before mentioned, of a bar or plate sliding or working between the
slay, and the pins, teeth, or their equivalents combined therewith,
substantially as and for the purposes herein-before described, and as
illustrated by the accompanying Drawings.
In witness whereof, I, the said Leopold Salomons, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, this Twenty-first day of January, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-five.
LEOPOLD SALOMONS. (L.S.)