IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF HATS, AND IN THE MACHINERY OR APPARATUS EMPLOYED THEREIN
Year: 1879

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to John Henry Johnson, of 47, Lincoln's Inn Fields, in the
County of Middlesex, Gentleman, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN
THE MANUFACTURE OF HATS, AND IN THE MACHINERY OR APPARATUS
EMPLOYED THEREIN." A communication from abroad by Simon Piron, of Paris,
in the Republic of France.
Sealed the 3rd October 1879, and dated the 26th April 1879.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said John Henry Johnson at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 26th April 1879.
THE
JOHN HENRY JOHNSON, of 47, Lincoln's Inn Fields, in the County of Middlesex,
Gentleman. "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF HATS, AND IN
MACHINERY OR APPARATUS EMPLOYED THEREIN." A communication from abroad
by Simon Piron, of Paris, in the Republic of France.
This Invention relates to the operations performed in the manufacture of hats
termed blocking and ironing, and consists in the employment for this purpose of
improved machinery with a view to dispensing with the manual labour heretofore
employed, and which in consequence of the great skill required is found to be very
expensive.
"
,,
The principal feature in the machine employed according to this Invention for
performing the first operation, namely, that of placing the hat on the block or
blocking consists in combining the effects of two distinct pressures exerted
separately, one pressure being exerted on the brim and the other on the crown of
the hat. By these means it is rendered possible to manufacture hats of different
heights in the crown with one and the same block.
The machine is supported on a hollow central pillar or stand carrying two fixed
horizontal arms, one on each side, the said arms being made hollow on their under-
side, and one vertical arm cast in one with the pillar or secured to it.
The vertical arm forms the support of a horizontal movable arm capable of turning
on a vertical axis and provided with a screw or nut at its extremity in which works
a vertical pressing screw provided with a hand wheel at its upper extremity.
Two frames are connected to the upper part of the central hollow pillar over the
two fixed horizontal arms bereinbefore described by short jointed arms, each frame

page_text: being composed of two principal parts, namely, one part capable of being turned
down so as to lie flat upon the upper part of the central pillar, and within which
are arranged the ring or rings of metal corresponding to the external circumference
of the crown of the hat, and another part provided with a handle at one side and
capable of being turned down so as to lie flat upon the part of the frame first
herein before described, in which position it is retained by a suitable catch provided
with a handle. The two frames aro also capable of turning upon the jointed arms
by which they are attached to the central pillar so as to lie flat upon the horizontal
arms berein before described on each side of the said pillar, and are retained when
in that position by suitable spring bolts or catches.
The horizontal arms provided on each side of the central pillar are each furnished
with sockets in which work nuts capable of being rotated on a vertical axis by
means of suitable radiating handles without moving in the direction of their
axie.
Screws are passed vertically through each nut, and each of these screws is con-
nected at its lower extremity to one end of a guiding arm, the other extremity of
such arm travelling between two webs cast on the under side of the horizontal arms
herein before referred to.
The central pillar, which is open at the top, contains a hollow case or lining in
the form of a hollow frustum of a cone at its upper part and cylindrical at the lower
part which is closed by a disc of metal and is in communication with a steam pipe
provided with a stop cock. The lower part of the case provided with a series of
perforated discs forming a species of false bottoms by means of which the steain is
dried before it fills the case. The steam entering at the lower part of the case first
passes through the perforation in the discs, then surrounds the crown of the hat,
which is placed in an inverted position in the upper part of the case as hereinafter
described, and after acting upon the brim of the hat through holes in the frame,
escapes through a suitable outlet pill.
In operating with this apparatus one and the same block may be employed by
operating upon hats having the same diameter, but which are of different heights in
the crown as hercinbefore stated, the machine being worked in the same manner
hereinafter described.
Assuming the part firstly hereinbefore described of one of the frames is to have
been turned over so as to lie flat upon the top of the central pillar, the hat to bo
operated on or blocked is placed in the said part in an inverted position, and the
other part of the frame is then turned over upon it and secured in that position by
the catch, which holds the two parts firmly together and causes them to press the
brim of the hat tightly between them. The cock in the steam inlet pipe is then
opened for a short time so that the steam may come in contact with the crown and
brim of the hat. A block of suitable form is then introduced into the crown, and
the movable arm, supported by the vertical arm on the central pillar as herein before
described, is then moved round so as to bring the vertical screw working in the nut
at the extremity of the said movable arm over the centre of the block. This screw
is then turned round by means of the hand wheel so as to force the block well
down into the crown of the hat, after which the arm is turned on its vertical axiss
by means of the handle, so as to move the screw clear of the frame supporting the
hat. The said frame block and hat are then turned over together without disturbing
their relative position so as to lie flat upon one of the horizontal arms at the side
of the central pillar and secured in that position by the catch as hereinbefore
described with the crown of the hat upwards and exposed to view. The nut working
in a socket in the horizontal arm as hereinbefore described is then turned so as to
cause the vertical screw passing through the said nut to rise and press against the
block from below, and thereby impart to the crown of the hat the exact amount of
tension required.
The crown and brim of the hat are allowed to remain upon the block in this state
of tension whilst the same series of operations are being performed by means of the
other frame on another hat, after which the hat firstly operated on is removedfrom

page_text: the machine, and a third hat is operated on in like manner, and so on in succession
without loss of time.
After the hat has been placed on the block, as hereinafter described, the hat is
operated upon without being removed from the block in a machine for ironing the
crown.
According to one mode of constructing this machine it consists of a table sup-
porting two plummer blocks or bearings, in which works a horizontal spindle driven
by a suitable pulley and band arranged between the bearings, the said spindle being
also provided with a screw thread at one end fitting into a corresponding female
screw formed in the centre of the hat block. The object of this machine being to
operate with a heated iron upon and exert an elastic pressure on every part of the
external surface of the crown of the hat with the least possible fatigue to the work-
man, the machine is provided with a special holder for the iron, as next hereinafter
described.
An iron, which may be of the ordinary form, is secured with its working face in
a vertical plane to the front of a carriage mounted on rollers, the said carriage being
provided with guides which allow it to partake of a reciprocating horizontal motion,
and with a spiral or other suitable springs at the back, which constantly tend to press
it in one direction. This carriage is supported on a frame or board which is capable
of being moved by hand in any required direction upon the stand or table sup-
porting the horizontal spindle, as hereinbefore described. In operating with this
machine a block carrying the hat to be operated on is screwed upon the end of the
horizontal spindle so as to revolve with it, and the frame or board carrying the
carriage, with the iron attached, as herein before described, is moved so as to bring
the iron in contact with the hat, and caused to travel all around the crown of the
hat, whilst the elastic pressure of the springs at the back part of the carriage causes
the iron to exert a constant and uniform pressure on every part of the said crown
notwithstanding the irregularities in its form.
This second operation having been performed, as herein before described, the hat
is operated on in a machine for pressing the brim.
This apparatus is carried on an oblong rectangular table of cast iron, bolted to
the top of a suitable stand or pillar, and provided with a groove on one of the
longer sides. Two under plates are fixed upon this table, one near each end, and
each of these plates are provided with two vertical pins acting as stops, as herein-
after described, and has a hole in its centre corresponding to the shape of the hat.
The press proper is composed of a curved bar, the extremities of which are formed
so as to embrace the edges of the table herein before referred to. This bar is provided
with three rollers, one of which at one end of the bar travels upon the surface of
the table, whilst the two others, which are supported in bearings attached to the
other end of the bar, travel in the groove hereinbefore referred to. One side of the
same table and the said bar is also provided at its centre with a female screw, in
which works a vertical screw provided with a band wheel at its upper end. This
screw supports a hollow upper plate at its lower extremity, the said plate being
capable of ascending and descending with the screw without revolving, and being
provided with suitable internal channels through which steam may be caused to
circulate, such steam being introduced and escaping through flexible pipes. This
hollow plate is also provided with two angular projections on each side, two of
which bear against the vertical pins or stops herein before referred to on one of the
under plates, and two bear against the pins on the other of the under plates,
according as the hollow plate is brought into position over the one or the other of
the said under plates.
In working this machine a hat is placed in an inverted position on one of the
under plates, the crown of the hat being passed through the hole in the centre of
the plate, and through a corresponding hole in the table, with the brim resting on
the upper surface of the plate. The press proper, hereinbefore described, is then
brought over the hat, and the vertical screw is screwed down by means of the band

page_text: wheel, so as to lower the hollow steam heated upper plate, the said plate being
prevented from revolving by the projections herein before described abutting against
the vertical pins on the lower plate), and cause the said plate to press upon the
brim of the hat, in which position the parts are allowed to remain for a few
moments. During this time another hat is placed on the other under plate, and
the press proper being then brought over this hat the operations herein before
described are repeated. The first hat is then removed, and another inserted in its
place, and so on in succession without loss of time. It should be observed that the
circulation of steam in the upper hollow plate renders it unnecessary to hold the
brims of the hat to the fire before submitting them to pressure.
In the case of the machine for putting the hat on the block, and the machine for
pressing the brim, it is adviseable to cover the majority of the metal parts of the
said machines which come in contact with the brim of the hat with felt, as this
precaution will obviate the liability of the hat to become distorted under the
operation.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said John Henry Johnson in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 11th
October 1879.
JOHN HENRY JOHNSON, of 47, Lincoln's Inn Fields, in the County of Middlesex,
Gentleman. "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF HATS, AND IN THE
MACHINERY OR APPARATUS EMPLOYED THEREIN." A communication from abroad
by Simon Piron, of Paris, in the Republic of France.
The said Invention relating to the manufacture of hats has reference to the
operations of blocking and ironing the hats and pressing the brims thereof, and it
consists in the employment for these purposes of improved machinery with a view
to dispensing with the manual labour heretofore necessary, and which in consequence
of the great skill required is found to be very expensive.
And in order that the said Invention may be fully understood, I shall now pro-
ceed more particularly to describe the same, and for that purpose shall refer to
several Figures on the annexed Sheet of Drawings, the same letters of reference
indicating corresponding parts in all the corresponding Figures.
The principal feature in the machine employed according to the said Invention for
performing the first operation, namely, that of "blocking" or placing the hat ou
the block, consists in combining the effects of two distinct pressures exerted
separately, one pressure being exerted on the brim and the other on the crown of
the hat. By these means it is rendered possible to manufacture hats of different
heights in the crown with one and the same block.
One mode of constructing a machine for this purpose is illustrated in Figures 1,
2, 3, and 4 of the Drawings, Figure 1 being a sido elevation; Figure an
end view; Figure 3 a plan; and Figure 4 a sectional elevation of the said
machine.
The machine is supported on a hollow central pillar or stand A carrying two fixed
horizontal arms a one on each side (the said arms being recessed on their under
side), and one vertical arm a' either cast in one with the pillar or secured to it, the
latter method being shown in the Drawing.
The vertical arm a¹ forms the support of a horizontal movable arm B capable of
turning on a vertical axis and provided with a screw or nut b at its extremity, in
which works a vertical pressing screw b' furnished with a hand wheel b at its
upper extremity.
Connected to the upper part of the central hollow pillar are two frames C, C,
one over each of the two fixed horizontal arms a, the connection being made
by the short jointed arms c; each frame is composed of two principal parts,
namely, one part C' capable of being turned down so as to lie flat upon the upper
part of the central pillar A, and within which are arranged a ring or rings of metal c¹
corresponding to the external perimeter of the crown of the hat, and another part Cª
provided with a handle c³ at one side and capable of being turned down so as to
lie flat upon the part C₁ of the frame C, in which position it is retained by a suitable
catch furnished with a handle c³. The two frames are also capable of turning upon
the jointed arms by which they are attached to the central pillar, so as to lie flat
upon the horizontal arms a on each side of the said pillar, and are retained when
in that position by suitable spring bolts or catches a³.
The horizontal arms a provided on each side of the central pillar are each
furnished with sockets a' in which work nuts D capable of being rotated on a
vertical axis by means of suitable radiating handles d without moving in the
direction of their axis. Screws d¹ pass vertically through the nuts and each of
these screws is connected at its lower extremity to one end of a guiding arm ², the
other extremity of such arm travelling between two webs cast on the under side
of the horizontal arms a.
The central pillar which is open at the top contains a hollow case or lining E in
the form of a hollow frustum of a cone at its upper part, and cylindrical at the

page_text: lower part which is closed by a disc of metal and is in communication with a steam
pipe e provided with a stop cock. The lower part of the case E is fitted with a
series of perforated discs e¹ by the passage through which the steam is dried before
it fills the case. The steam entering at the lower part of the case first passes
through the perforation in the discs, then surrounds the crown of the hat which is
placed in an inverted position in the upper part of the case as bereinafter described,
and after acting upon the brim of the hat through holes in the frame escapes
through a suitable outlet pipe o'
In using this apparatus one and the same block may be employed for operating
upon hats of the same diameter but of different heights in the crown, as herein-
before stated, the machine being worked in the manner hereinafter described.
Assuming the part C₁ of one of the frames C to have been turned over so as to
lie flat upon the top of the central pillar, as shewn in the Drawing, in the case of
the right hand frame the hat to be operated on or blocked is placed in the said part
C¹ in an inverted position (as shewn by dotted lines), and the other part C of the
frame is then turned over upon it and secured in that position by the catch c³,
which holds the two parts C and Os firmly together, and causes them to press the
brim of the bat tightly between them. The cock in the steam inlet pipe e is then
opened for a short time, so that the steam may come in contact with the crown and
brim of the hat. A block of suitable form (represented by dotted hatchings in
Figure 4) is then introduced into the crown, and the moveable arm B, supported by
the vertical arm a¹ on the central pillar, is then moved round so as to bring the
vertical screw b', working in the nut at the extremity of the said movable arm, over
the centre of the block; this screw is then turned round by means of the hand
wheel b so as to force the block well down into the crown of the hat, after which
the arm B is turned on its vertical axis so as to move the screw clear of the frame
supporting the hat.
The said frame block and hat are then by the aid of the
handle turned over together without disturbing their relative position so as to lio
flat upon one of the horizontal arms a at the sido of the central pillar (as shown in
the Drawing in the case of the left hand frame), with the crown of the hat upwards
and exposed to view. The nut D, working in a socket in the horizontal arın, as
hereinbefore described, is then turned so as to cause the vertical screw d' passing
through the said nut to rise and press against the block from below, and thereby
impart to the crown of the hat the exact amount of tension required.
The crown and brim of the hat are allowed to remain upon the block in this state
of tenison whilst the same series of operations are being performed by means of the
other frame on another hat, after which the hat first operated on is removed from
the machine and a third hat is operated on in like manner, and so on in succession
without loss of time.
After the hat has been placed on the block, as hereinbefore described, the hat is
operated upon without being removed from the block in a machine for ironing the
crown. One mode of constructing this machine is illustrated in Figures 5 and 6 of
the Drawings, Figure 5 being a side elevation, and Figure 6 a front view of the
Saine.
This machine consists of a table A supporting two plummer blocks or bearings b,
in which works a horizontal spindle B driven by a suitable pulley b' and band b,
arranged between the bearings c, the said spindle being also provided with a screw
thread at one end fitting into a corresponding female screw formed in the centre of
the bat block. The object of this machine being to operate with a heated iron upon
and exert an elastic pressure on every part of the external surface of the crown of
tho hat with the least possible fatigue to the workman, the machine is provided
with a peculiar holder Ċ for the iron, constructed and arranged in the following
manner :-
An iron c, which may be of the ordinary form, is secured with its working face
on a vertical plane to the front of a carriage c mounted on rollers c³, the said
carriage being provided with guides, which admit of its partaking of a reciprocating

page_text: horizontal motion, and with suitable springs c at the back, which constantly tend
to press it in one direction. The carriage with its appurtenances is supported on a
frame or board c, which is capable of being moved by hand in any required direction
upon the stand or table A, supporting the horizontal spindle B. In operating with
this machine a block carrying the hat to be ironed is screwed upon the end of the
horizontal spindle so as to revolve with it, and the frame or board c carrying tho
carriage with the iron c¹ attached is moved so as to bring the iron into contact
with the hat, and is caused to travel all round the crown of the hat whilst the
elastic pressure of the springs c² at the back of the carriage causes the iron to exert
B constant and uniform pressure on every part of the said crown notwithstanding
the irregularities in its form.
This second operation having been performed as hereinbefore described, the hat
is operated on in a machine for pressing the brim. This machine is shown in
Figures 7, 8, 9, and 10, Figure 7 being a side elevation, Figure 8 a corresponding
end elevation, Figure 9 a plan, and Figure 10 n longitudinal section of the same.
The apparatus is carried on a table B of cast iron bolted to the top of a suitable
stand or pillar A and provided with a groove b on one of the longer sides. Two
under plates 6 are fixed upon this table, one near each end, and each of these plates
is provided with two vertical pins b acting as stops as hereinafter described, and bas
a hole in its centre corresponding to the shape of the hat.
The press proper C is composed of a curved bar c capable of embracing the edges
of the table B and provided with three rollers, one of which (C) at one end of the
bar travels upon the surface of the table whilst the two others (c) (which are
supported in bearings c³ attached to the other end of the bar) travel in the groove b
on one side of the table. The bar is also provided at its centre with a female
screw in which works n vertical screw c* carrying at its upper end a hand wheel co
and supporting at its lower end a bollow upper plate c. The latter is capable of
ascending or descending with the screw without revolving, and is formed with
suitable internal channels through which steam may be caused to circulate, such
steam being introduced through a flexible pipe c, and escaping through another
flexible pipe c. The plate C is also provided with two sets of angular projections c¹º
(one set on each side) which bear against the vertical pins or stops b² of the under
plates one or the other set of angular projections being brought into use according
to which of the two under plates is for the time being in action.
In operating with this machine a hat is placed in any inverted position on one
of the under plates, the crown of the hat being passed through the hole in the centre
of the plate and through a corresponding hole in the table with the brim resting on
the upper surface of the plate. Tho press proper C herein before described is then
brought over the hat and the vertical screw c✶ is screwed down by means of the
hand wheel co so as to lower the hollow steam heated upper plate c7 (the said plate
being prevented from revolving by the projections cabutting against the vertical
pins bon the lower plate) and cause the said plate to press upon the brim of the
hat, in which position the parts are allowed to remain for a few moments. During
this time another hat is placed on the other under plate, and the press proper being
then brought over this hat the operations herein before described are repented. The
first hat is then removed and another inserted in its place, and so on in succession
without loss of time. It should be observed that the circulation of steam in the
hollow upper plate renders it unnecessary to hold the brims of the hat to the fire
before submitting them to pressure.
In the case of the machine for blocking the hat, and the machine for pressing the
brim, it is adviseable to cover the majority of the metal parts of the said machines
which come in contact with the brim of the hat with felt, as this precaution will
obviate the liability of the hat to become distorted under the operations.
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of the said
Invention, and the manner in which the same is or may be used or carried into
effect, I would observe in conclusion that what I consider to be novel and original,

page_text: and therefore claim as the Invention secured to me by the hereinbefore in part
recited Letters Patent is,-
First. The system or mode of dressing hats mechanically by the employment in
succession of machines constructed and arranged so as to operate substantially in the
nanner hereinbefore described and illustrated by the accompanying Drawings.
Second. The machine for blocking hats, constructed and arranged so as to operate
substantially in the manner herein before described and illustrated by Figures 1, 2, 3,
and 4 of the accompanying Drawings.
Third. The machine for ironing the crowns of hats, the said machine being con-
structed and arranged so as to operate substantially in the manner hereinbefore
described, and illustrated by Figures 5 and 6 of the accompanying Drawings.
Fourth. The machine for pressing the brims of bats, the said machino being
constructed and arranged so as to operate substantially in the manner herein before
described, and illustrated by Figure 7, 8, 9, and 10 of the accompanying
Drawings.
In witness whereof, I, the said John Henry Johnson, have to this my Specifica-
tion set my hand and seal, this Tenth day of October, One thousand eight
hundred and seventy nine.
J. HENRY JOHNSON. (L.B.)