Year: 1886

page_text: Date of Application, 22nd Oct., 1886.
Complete Left, 20th July, 1887.
Complete Accepted, 13th Sept., 1887.
or Garments.
We, JAMES FORTUNE, of St. Andrews House, West Cowes, Isle of Weight,
Commercial Traveller, and JAMES RENWICK, JAMES REYBURN and JOHN REYBURN,
all of the firm of Renwick and Reyburn, of Trinity Mills, Hawick, in the County of
Roxburgh, Hosiery Manufacturers, do hereby declare the nature of our invention to
be as follows :-
Heretofore knitted under clothing for children, ladies and men (such as semmits
or knitted under vests, shirts and combination dresses) has been knitted with one
weft or thread "thrown " or traversed to and fro across the number of needles,
required to form the full width or number of stitches in each row for the time being
to shape the garment, or the main parts of the garment being knitted; that is by
extending or dropping out the number of needles at one or both sides to be served
with the yarn or thread to give the number of stitches in each row required to shape
the garment as the knitting proceeds. Or otherwise when parts of these garments so
knitted were required to be made thicker, closer or warmer, such as for giving extra
covering over the chest, back, or other vital parts of the body, then special parts, of
the shape and size required, were knitted separately and afterwards sewed or otherwise
secured at their edges to the parts of the garments previously knitted as usual of a
single yarn or thread as above described, thus having double thicknesses of woven
fabric at these parts.
This invention has for its object, and consists in the thickening of the said parts of
such garments at one operation, or while knitting them in the ordinary knitting
frame or machine, by the use of a second thread, or two weft or knitting threads.
The first thread is made to form or knit the thin or light parts and the back or inner
surface of the thick parts of the garment, at the same time, as and while the second
yarn or thread is only brought into use at the thick parts to form these with the first
thread and also the front or outer surface of these thick parts. This is effected by
carrying the first thread as usual in its carriers right across under the hooks of the
гр

page_text: needles required to form the full width of the garment (or part of it being knitted),
but by these improvements a second or duplicate arrangement of weft and carrier is
fitted in front of that traversing the first thread, to take in and traverse the second
or front thread across the needles at the parts to be thickened only, to be caught by
these needles and carried down and knitted in along with the first thread previously,
traversed at each row of stitches, so as to form these thick or double parts along with
the first thread, while it forms the thin parts of every row of stitching as the knitting
proceeds in the otherwise ordinary construction of garment knitting machine; and
also knit all the other parts of the garment light with the first or single thread
only as usual, simply by not bringing in the second thread to be knitted with it at
these times.
This new or improved mode and means of knitting these garments, give a great
power of varying their character, style and texture, suitable for the wear of children,
ladies or men, either light or strong, and for different climates, by the kinds or com-
binations of the different knitting yarns which may be used, such as in gauze, elastic,
stout, marino, lambs wool, cashmere, silk, or other yarns which will give their
character to the fabric on either or both sides when finished, according to the
yarn used.
1 1

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Knitted Under Shirts
or Garments.
We, JAMES FORTUNE, of St. Andrews House, West Cowes, Isle of Wight,
Commercial Traveller, and JAMES RENWICK, JAMES REYBURN, and JOHN REYBURN,
all of the firm of Renwick & Reyburn, of Trinity Mills, Hawick, in the county of
Roxburgh, Hosiery Manufacturers, do hereby declare the nature of our invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement in writing, reference being had to the
accompanying Sheet of Drawings and to the letters and figures marked thereon;
that is to say
وو
Heretofore knitted under clothing for children, ladies and men (such as semmits or
knitted under vests, shirts and combination dresses) have been knitted with one weft
or thread "thrown or traversed to and fro across the number of needles required to
form the full width or number of stitches in each row for the time being to shape the
garment, or the main parts of the garment being knitted; that is by extending, or
dropping out the number of needles at one or both sides to be served with the yarn
or thread to give the number of stitches in each row required to shape the garment
as the knitting proceeds. Or otherwise when parts of these garments so knitted were
required to be made thicker, closer or warmer, such as for giving extra covering over
the chest, back, or other vital parts of the body, then special parts, of the shape and
size required, were knitted separately and afterwards sewed or otherwise secured at
their edges to the parts of the garments previously knitted as usual of a single yarn
or thread as above described, thus having double thicknesses of woven fabric at
these parts.
And in order that our said invention may be properly understood, we have
hereunto appended an explanatory sheet of Drawings illustrating the mechanism by
which we carry our improvements into effect or practice, and in which the same
reference letters are used to indicate corresponding parts in all the Figures where
shown. Figure 1 shows a front elevation and Figure 2 a corresponding plan, while
Figure 3 is a transverse section corresponding to and taken near the line 1---1 in
Figures 1 and 2 all of one modification of the improved mechanism for being erected
in front of an ordinary knitting frame or machine not shown in the Drawings and in
front of the ordinary knitting needles A, A, and their jacks and lovers B, B', seen
more particularly in Figures 2 and 3, used for the knitting of under shirts or
garments, and for actuating the carrier or slur arm C and applying the new thread
or yarn c, all in accordance with and for carrying out the improvements of our
invention. Figure 4 shows a front view of a part of the front or back Z, Z, of knitted
shirt as worked, or in the act of being worked in accordance with our improvements
the part indicated at zz, being the thick part worked with the double thread, and
marked c in Figure 3 as indicating the new thread in front.

page_text: Referring to these Drawings:-Our invention has for its object, and consists in
the thickening of the said chest or other parts z, z, of such garments as indicated
at Z at one operation, or while knitting them in the ordinary knitting frame or
machine, by the use of a second thread c that is by two weft or knitting threads, at
one and the same time. The first thread is made to form or knit the thin or light
parts Z, Z, and at the same time preferably to appear at the back or inner surface of
the thick parts z of the garment, as and while the second yarn or thread c is only
brought into use at the thick parts to knit these parts in combination with the first
thread and preferably shown on the front or outer surfaces of these thick parts z.
This is effected by carrying the first thread as usual in its ordinary carriers or
carrying arms not shown in the Drawings, right across the top of needles A and
under the hooks or recesses 6 of the depressing jacks and sinkers B, B¹ to form the
full width of the garment (or part of it being knitted) all so far in the ordinary
manner. But by these improvements a second or duplicate arrangement of weft or
thread c and carrier C are fitted in front of that traversing the first thread, to take in
and traverse this second or front thread c across and over the needles A at the
parts of the fabric to be thickened only, to be depressed by the hooks and
sinkers B, B and caught by the needles A, and carried down and knitted in along
with the first or ordinary thread previously traversed at each row of stitches, but
which may be traversed after the second thread, so as to form these thick or double
parts along with the first thread as a double thread, while the first or ordinary thread
forms the thin parts Z, Z, of every row of knitted stitches as the knitting proceeds in
the otherwise ordinary construction of garment knitting machine; and thus knit all
the other parts Z of the garment light with the first or single thread only as usual,
simply by not bringing in the second thread c to be knitted with it at these parts
when knitting the parts zz of the garment, all as indicated in Figure 4.
Referring to Figures 1, 2 and 3, the new or improved frame and mechanism for
actuating the new slur arm C for drawing or working in the new additional thread
of yarn c across the needles A where it has to splice in and thicken the cloth as at
in Figure 4 by knitting in two threads at the same time, as previously explained, and
in the same manner as it knits the single thread at the thin parts of the garment as
at Z, consists all as follows:-Of a strong traversing frame or bar E carrying the
whole mechanism as a carriage by running wheels E at its ends, traversed to and
fro on brackets E2, indicated in Figures 2 and 3, secured to the front posts of the
frame of the knitting machine not shown in the Drawings, and traversed by hooks F,
jointed at their inner ends F¹ to the ordinary oscillating frame B³ carrying the
jacks B and their levers B2 and sinkers B¹, the former B working down between each
separate pair of needles A, and the latter B₁ between each coupled pair of needles
cast in their securing or fixing leads A²; in an ordinary manner, an elevation and
plan of a few of the needles being shown to a large scale in Figure 3 A, to enable
this to be understood more clearly than can be seen in the small scale views
Figures 2 and 3. The carriage frame E, E¹, has secured to it, the round guide rod G,
by which the hooks F traverse the whole frame and mechanism automatically to and
fro out from and towards the needles A, as required for the insertion of the new
thread c, which is passed through eyes at e e¹ in the light carrier arın C, and the
elliptical eye at the point, which carries the thread c down or up through between
the needles A where required, the lower position of the arm C being shown in dotted
lines in Figure 3, regulated by pinching screws D, and the upper position shown in
dark lines is regulated by the pinching screw D¹, secured in the handle of the lever C³.
This arm C is bolted at C₁ to its sliding and oscillating angled bar C2, which is
oscillated and traversed on the guide bar G by a hand lever C³ in front of the
carriage E convenient for the hand of the attendant to traverse the frame C² to and
fro to the exact extent desired to pass the thread or yarn e over the proper number of
needles A, where the cloth is to be thickened or spliced by the yarn c as at 2. This
regulation of the distance the frame C has to be traversed is regulated by stops G
sliding on the bar G, and against which the ends of the slide C2 abutt to stop it at the
proper distance. Each stop G' is secured by lateral arms g to the outer end of their

page_text: moving ratchet rods g', having ratchets on their upper inner edges at g², into which
fixing spring pawls h act, for retaining the rack rods g¹ and stops G' in the position
they are set to for the time being, the outer ends of the pawls h being secured to
brackets H fixed to the traversing frame E. The pawls are disengaged by thumb
pushers from below when the racks have to be set to their exact positions for the
distance the slur arm C has to be carried across the needles. The notches in the
racks 9 correspond to the distance between the needles, and are each shifted by an
angled hand lever i fulcrumed on a bolt or spindle at 2 carried on a central plate and
stud I and have the short upper arms of these levers above the fulcrum attached
to T-shaped actuating pawl levers 3, so that these can be reversed to pull the racks
in either direction to shorten or lengthen these, and so shorten or lengthen the
distance between either of the stops G and the centre of the frame, at any moment
by the attendant, thus regulating the traverse of the slur arm C, which he actuates by
the handle C³. The thread c is preferably left in a loop under the arm C, between
the eye e¹ and the tube eye e², with a ring e³ or other equivalent light weight on it
attached to the arm C at et for giving a slight tension to the thread c. The usual slur
arm and its yarn or thread is preferably first traversed to the full distance it is desired
across the top of the needles A as from Z to Z in Figure 4, and then the second
thread c is traversed by its arm C, to the distance it is desired to have the thick or
spliced part of the fabric formed, as from z to z, and the two threads are then
depressed, at one time, first by the hook recesses in front of the jacks B and
sinkers B', and then brought forward under the needle beards A¹ and the jacks and
sinkers are then carried up and back, until the edge of the presser bar is brought
down over the beards A' of the needles A. The jacks and sinkers B, B¹ are then
raised and pressed forward to make the projections b₁ throw the previously formed
loops over the beards, and newly formed loops, and points of the needles, leaving the
work then below the needles carried back as indicated in Figure 3, ready for a new
slur and course of loops being formed, all otherwise as usual, and as described.
This new or improved mode and means of knitting these garments, give a great
power of varying their character, style and texture suitable for the wear of children,
ladies or men, either light or strong, and for different climates, by the kinds or
combinations of the different knitting yarns which may be used such as in gauze,
elastic, stout, merino, lambs wool, cashmere, silk, or other yarns which will give their
character to the fabric on either or both sides when finished, according to the
yarn used.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said invention,
and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we claim is :-
First. The manufacture of knitted under-shirts and garments with thickened parts
in the new or improved mode by an additional thread or yarn at these parts, and the
means or mechanism herein described, in reference to and shown in the accompanying
Drawings.
Second. In the manufacture of knitted under-shirts and garments, the thickening
of any parts across the garment by knitting in an additional thread with the first
thread, substantially as herein described.
Third. In the manufacture of knitted under-shirts and garments, the mode and
means or mechanism for working in an additional thread to thicken any parts across
the garment, substantially as herein described, in reference to and shown in the
accompanying Drawings.