Improvements in Apparatus for Curving or Forming the Leathers of Boots and Shoes.
Year: 1890

page_text: Date of Application, 22nd Nov., 1890
Complete Specification Left, 21st Aug., 1891-Accepted, 21st Nov., 1891
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Apparatus for Curving or Forming the Leathers
of Boots and Shoes.
A communication from Messrs. ROTTE, GAUTHIER & Co., of Blois, in the
Republic of France.
I, ALFRED JULIUS BOULT of 323 High Holborn in the County of Middlesex,
M.L.M.E., do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
The object of this invention is to carry out by machinery what has hitherto been
best accomplished by hand on wooden blocks or shapes viz. to curve the leather so
as to form the instep or other part, and the method of operation is substantially
similar to hand-work, namely, it consists in a drawing or stretching action.
For this purpose the machine is provided with a block or saddle of bronze wood
or other material supported by two or more uprights erected upon the bed plate of
the machine. Astride this saddle are placed a pair of "uppers" of boots which
have previously been submitted to the action of apparatus calculated to assist the
leather in conforming to the shape of the block or saddle.
This preparatory apparatus consists of a cast-iron, bronze or other suitable cheek
approaching in shape the curve or instep it is desired to form this being firmly
fixed on a table by screws or the like. A second cheek is capable of sliding upon
two or more pins or guides secured in the stationary cheek. A small hand-wheel
with a screwed boss is mounted upon one of the pins which is similarly screw
threaded and serves for the adjustment of the space between the checks. To
further adjust the position of the movable cheek the stationary check is provided
with preferably three thumb screws fitted with counter-nuts also adjustable by hand.
These screws are preferably arranged in a triangle. By means of the hand-wheel
and its boss or nut the movable check is firmly fixed upon the ends of the
triangularly disposed screws. Between the two cheeks operates a large pivotted
blade or arm forming a counter-curve for the two curved cheeks. The shape of
this counter-curve however may be varied according to the nature of the work to
be performed. On one side of the pivotted arm is arranged a rack gearing with a
small pinion operated by a crank-handle.
The operation of the preparatory apparatus is as follows ;—
The space between the two jaws being adjusted according to the thickness of the
leather to be prepared a pair of uppers are placed their black surface downwards
upon the two cheeks and well centred. The handle of the pivotted arm is then
firmly pressed upon so as to force the leather between the cheeks. While this
takes place the rack gears with the pinion. The pivotted arm or blade may then
be further forced in by means of the crank handle by which movement the legs or
uppers are folded up or doubled while the portion above the instep is raised.
The hand-wheel is then unscrewed the lever arm raised and the pair of uppers with
the curves partly formed therein are removed from the apparatus whereupon it
remains to complete the curving by the stretching action of the curving machine
proper in which the leather being stretched in all directions so as to entirely
expand all clastic or yielding parts of it at the same time recovers what flexibility it
may have lost in the preparatory stage.
In the curving machine the uppers are laid across the block or shape and at
their ends are firmly secured in preferably three sets of adjustable clamps to draw
them horizontally at the toc, instep, and heel portions and at their lower edges
in preferably two other sets of clamps to draw them vertically down on to the
block these combined operations corresponding to those which are performed when
stretching the uppers by hand. The "toe clamp is pivotted to the upper end of
12

page_text: a lever connected at preferably its lower end to a crank disc or the like by a link
whose effective length may be adjusted by a nut threaded on right and left handed
screws. The "instep
" and "heel" clamps are pivotted to a lever adjustably
connected to the crank disc like the "toe" clamp lever and the relative positions
of these "instep" and "heel" clamps on their lever are adjustable by means of a
small lever or double stop acted upon by a spring and screw or equivalent which
arrangement also equalizes the resistance on the two sides of the block or shape.
The vertically-pulling clamps are preferably all coupled together and connected
to the crank disc by a link. The disc is secured upon a shaft on which is also
secured a crank arm carrying a nut through which passes a screw on which is fitted
a hand wheel or equivalent and which is prevented from moving in a longitudinal
direction. By rotating the hand wheel the crank disc is turned on its axis and
through the various links connected therewith simultaneously forces the clamps
in the various directions necessary for stretching the uppers across or upon the
block or shape. This operation is continued or repeated until it is found that the
leather is capable of no further extension at which stage any remaining creases are
smoothed down by au angular polishing iron which is forcibly rubbed over it after
which the stretching operation may again be resorted to the leather being if necessary
inserted deeper into the clamps for this purpose.
If desired the uppers which were previously soaked in water may be dried on the
block which for this purpose is made removable and provided with clamps which
will retain the upper in its strained condition.
The clamps may be arranged so that each pair may be simultaneously operated
by the same bolt or nut.
The before described apparatus may be used for stretching the heel portions
of boots by substituting for the "instep" block another of the required shape.
Dated this Twenty-second day of November 1890.
W. P. THOMPSON & BOULT,
Agents for the Applicant.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Apparatus for Curving or Forming the Leathers
of Boots and Shoes.
A communication from Messrs. ROTTÉ, GAUTHIER & Co., of Blois, in the
Republic of France.
I, ALFRED JULIUS BOULT of 323 High Holborn in the County of Middlesex,
M.I.M.E., do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement :-
The object of this invention is to carry out by machinery what has hitherto
been best accomplished by hand on wooden blocks or shapes viz. to curve the leather
so as to form the instep, and the method of operation is substantially similar to
hand work namely it consists in a drawing or stretching action.
In the accompanying drawings ;-
Fig. 1 is a perspective view of that which is hereinafter referred to as the
preparatory apparatus,
Fig. 2 is a perspective view of the stretching machine proper,
Fig. 3 is a view of the rubbing tool,
Figs. 4 and 5 are views of different forms of clamps and
Figs. 6 and 7 are views of different forms of blocks or shapes.
For this purpose the machine is provided with a block or saddle C Fig. 2 of
bronze, wood or other material supported by two or more uprights cc¹ erected upon
the bed plate B of the machine. Astride this saddle is placed a boot "upper".

page_text: which has previously been submitted to the action of apparatus calculated to assist
the leather in conforming to the shape of the block or saddle C.
This preparatory apparatus as shown at Fig. 1 consists of a cast iron, bronze or
other suitable cheek approaching in shape the curve or instep it is desired to
form this being firmly fixed on a table by screws or the like. A second cheek J'
is capable of sliding upon two or more pins or guides A B secured in the stationary
cheek J. A small hand-wheel V with a screwed boss is mounted upon the pin B
which is similarly screw-threaded and serves for the adjustment of the space
between the cheeks. To further adjust the position of the movable cheek the
stationary cheek is provided with preferably three thumb screws fitted with
counter or lock nuts also adjustable by hand. These screws are preferably
arranged in a triangle at about the points 1, 2 and 3. By means of the hand
wheel V and its boss or nut the movable check J is firmly fixed upon the
ends of the triangularly disposed screws. Between the two cheeks operates a
pivotted blade or arm L pivotted at A and forming a counter curve for the two
curved cheeks. The shape of this counter curve however may be varied according
to the nature of the work to be performed. On one side of the pivotted arm is
arranged a rack gearing with a small pinion operated by a crank handle M.
The operation of the preparatory apparatus is as follows:-The space between
the two jaws being adjusted according to the thickness of the leather to be
prepared, a boot upper is placed, its black surface downwards, upon the two cheeks
and well centred. The handle of the pivotted arm L is then firmly pressed upon
so as to force the leather between the checks. While this takes place the rack
gears with the pinion. The pivotted arm or blade L may then be further forced
in by means of the crank handle M. by which movement the legs or uppers are
folded up or doubled while the portion above the instep is raised. The hand-
wheel V is then unscrewed the lever arm L raised and the upper with the curves
partly formed therein is removed from the apparatus whereupon it remains to
complete the curving by the stretching action of the curving machine proper which
is shown in Fig. 2 and in which the feather being stretched in all directions so as
to entirely expand all elastic or yielding parts of it, at the same time recovers what
flexibility it may have lost in the preparatory stage.
After having placed the upper astride the saddle or block it.is gripped at the
edges of the instep portion between the jaws of the double clamp P¹ and further
at the toe by the clamp Ps and at other parts by the clamps P4, P³, P. At that
moment the leather although partly curved is far from fitting the shape of the
block but if the clamp Ps be displaced horizontally towards the left of Fig. 2
and both the clamps P1 and Ps horizontally to the right and the two remaining
clamps P P vertically downwards this will stretch the leather exactly to the
shape of the surface of the block C. Now these are precisely the movements
which the mechanism arranged under the bed plate B is adapted to impart to the
respective clamps.
For this purpose there are on the right and left of the bed-plate B two
levers L and L pivotted at 1 and 2 respectively. To the top of the lever L is
pivotted at 3 a small clamp P which is to draw the toe end of the upper T. The
other lever L' is provided at its upper end with a small lever F fulcrummed at 12.
To this latter lever are pivotted at 13 and 14 the clamps P¹ and P* the former of
which is to draw the instep portion and the latter the heel part.
These two clamps are retained in their horizontal position by stops or equivalents
provided for the purpose on the lever and this lever is itself maintained in its
vertical position by a spiral spring R which tends to bring it into contact with the
end of the screw which if required may be used for its adjustment.
On each side of the bed-plate are secured by bolts or the like two bearings p p¹
supporting a shaft A. Upon this shaft between its bearings is firmly secured a
disc D.
The lower ends of the levers L L' are connected to the disc D at points 6 and 7
in the following manner :-the lever L by means of the rod t pivotted at 4. the

page_text: nut E and the rod t¹ pivotted at 6 and the lever L' by means of the rod t pivotted
at 7, the nut E' and the rod pivotted at 5. The rods and t¹ are provided
respectively with right and left handed screw-threads so that by turning the nut E
the distance between points 4 and 6 is increased or diminished as the case may be
and consequently the clamp P is brought nearer to or carried farther from the
instep portion according to the size of the upper operated upon. In the same way
the rods and are provided with right and left screw threads respectively and
by turning the nut E¹ the clamps P' and P² are made to approach or recede from
the instep.
Two lock nuts and g¹ are adapted to be operated by hand for firmly holding in
position the nuts E and E when the machine is adjusted.
In cases where the clamp P¹ is sufficiently near to the instep while the other
clamp has not come near enough to the heel all that is necessary is to remove
the pin 14 and to displace the clamp P the distance of one or more of the
perforations with which it is provided.
The clamps P and P are pivotted to the lever or bar Fat 10 and 11.
All the clamps P P P P and P are provided with perforations whereby their
position may be adjusted independently of each other.
The lever or bar is connected with the disc D by the link t* pivotted at 8
and 9. It is retained in its horizontal position by a spring interposed between the
head of the said link t¹ and underside of the lever or bar F.
The clamps P and P are maintained in vertical position by grooves provided in
the bed plate B in which they slide.
A spiral spring arranged on the opposite side of the machine connects the two
clamps and causes them to slide in the said grooves with slight friction.
To the outer end of the shaft A is secured a crank arm M provided with a
bearing at its top in which is supported a screw nut e provided with a left hand
thread. In or upon a shaft or trunnions a turning in bearings fixed to the right
leg of the machine there is another screw nut e' with a right hand thread.
The screw connects the two turning screw nuts e e¹.
The hand wheel V is arranged to operate the whole mechanism.
When the upper is secured on the last by the different clamps the hand wheel V
is turned sufficiently to cause the disc D to describe a quarter of a circle in the
direction of the arrow the right and left hand screw threads on shaft v facilitating
this operation.
The levers Land L' are thereby moved so that the clamps which they operate
at their upper ends stretch out the leather.
The clamps P and P are also caused to descend and stretch the leather
downwards.
While this movement takes place the levers F and F' perform their functions in
the following manner.
Each of these levers carries two clamps arranged similarly to the plates of
scales. So long as the resistance of the leather is uniform, the levers retain their
respective vertical and horizontal positions; but as soon as the resistance becomes
greater on one side than on the other the corresponding lever For F' as the case
may be is deflected in the opposite direction and carries with it the clamp which
has met with the least resistance, and the turning of the hand-wheel is continued
until it is found that the leather is capable of no further extension.
Then by means of the polishing iron in the shape of an upset V, Fig. 3, any
remaining creases are smoothed down, the tool being moved down the instep
towards the toc, and back, with strong pressure. The hand-wheel is then again
turned somewhat so as to remove the surplus of yielding material created by the
smoothing operation. Then the uppers are removed from the machine and as it
was necessary before stretching to moisten them, they are now allowed to dry in
some position in which they are prevented from getting out of shape. If necessary
in the case of certain special kinds of leather the uppers may be left to dry on the
saddle or block itself without interrupting the work,

page_text: For this purpose the uppers are secured on the block by means of a small clamp
Fig. 4 specially provided for the purpose a short distance from the clamp Ps
towards the right of Fig. 2; another similar clamp being provided near the
clamp P on the left. All the clamps of the machine are then opened and the
saddle or block with the uppers attached to it is removed. A fresh block is placed
on the machine and the operation before described is repeated. Thus with a
sufficient number of spare blocks or saddles the work may be continued without
interruption. For the ready exchange of the saddle the latter is not permanently
fixed to the uprights c and c' but is preferably provided at its lower surface with
two openings or recesses a few centimetres deep, for the reception of the said
uprights adapted to support them.
The additional clamp is clearly shown at Fig. 4 and needs no further description.
As regards the clamps P P P and P of one or any of which Fig. 5 is a side
elevation they are formed as follows;-
Each clamp consists of two pairs of checks or jaws both simultaneously operated
by means of the same screw nut. The cheeks m and m' are pivotted to a T-shaped
piece fixed to the checks M and M. A bolt or pin B, a part beneath the head of
which is of square section, is adapted freely to enter a square opening and to
traverse the clamping mechanism.
The spiral springs interposed between the cheeks force them apart in proportion
as the winged nut is loosened. The upper portions of the inner cheeks are rounded
on the side nearest to the block while the outer cheeks are flaring outwardly to
facilitate the insertion of the leather. These stationary and movable cheeks are
provided with teeth which are so arranged that the teeth of one check break joint
with or are situated opposite the spaces between the teeth of the other cheek.
This arrangement is calculated to prevent the slipping or displacement of the.
leather while it is being stretched on the machine. The winged nut o by being
enabled to be turned like a crank handle permits of the ready operation of the
double clamp.
The saddle or block Fig. 6 is provided with suitable recesses or grooves for the
cheeks M and M' of Fig. 5 to slide or be received in as these cheeks should under
no circumstances project.
When this portion is
Fig. 7 represents a special last for curving the counters.
to be curved the clamp P2 is used instead of the clamp P. This clamp P² as
shown in Fig. 2 is pivotted to the lever L' and the sleeve connecting the two
parts M M (Fig. 5) of which slides in the groove or recess shewn at the left hand
end of Fig. 7. The position to be occupied by the piece of leather to be curved is
indicated in dotted lines, Fig. 7.
The before described apparatus may be modified without departing from the
spirit of the invention.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion, as communicated to me by my foreign correspondents, and in what manner
the same is to be performed I declare that what claim is :-
1. In apparatus for curving or forming the instep of boots and shoes the
employment in combination with the general apparatus shown in Fig. 2 of the
special apparatus shown in Figure 1 for the purpose of preliminarily stretching
the leather substantially as described.
2. In apparatus for curving or forming the instep of boots and shoes the
combination with stationary and adjustable cheeks such as J J₁ of a pivotted arm
such as L adapted to work between them and a toothed rack and pinion for
facilitating such operation substantially as and for the purpose described and
illustrated in Figure 1 of the accompanying drawings.
3. In apparatus for curving or forming the instep of boots and shoes the
combination with two cheeks such as J J' and arm such as L of guiding pins 1, 2, 3
and bolt B and winged nut V substantially as described and illustrated in the
accompanying drawings.

page_text: 4. In apparatus for curving or forming the instep of boots and shoes the
combination with a block C of levers such as L Land clamps such as P³ P¹
substantially as described and illustrated in the accompanying drawings.
5. In apparatus for curving or forming the instep of boots and shoes the
combination with a block C of levers such as F and L' pivotted together and
clamps such as P1 P2 pivotted on the lever F substantially as described and
illustrated in the accompanying drawings.
6. In apparatus for curving or forming the instep of boots and shoes the
combination with a block C and levers such as L L' of divided links and nuts such
as Eg and t t E' g' connecting said levers with crank disc D substantially as
described and illustrated in the accompanying drawings.
7. In apparatus for curving or forming the instep of boots and shoes the
combination with a block C of clamps such as P P and bar or lever such as F
connecting them together and a link connecting said lever with crank disc D
substantially as described and illustrated in the accompanying drawings.
8. In apparatus for curving or forming the instep of boots and shoes the
combination with a block C and clamps such as P3 P4 consisting of jaws M m M¹m'
and bolt and nut B O and a lever such as F1 link and disc D of shaft A arm
such as M and right and left handed screwed shaft such as substantially as
described and illustrated in the accompanying drawings.
9. In apparatus for curving or forming the instep of boots and shoes the
combination with a block C levers such as LL' links such as t t'i t³ nuts E E' g g¹
and disc D of shaft A. arm such as M. and right and left handed screwed shaft such
as substantially as described and illustrated in the accompanying drawings.
10. The complete apparatus for curving or forming the instep of boots and shoes
consisting essentially of a block C clamps such as P P P P P levers such
as F L L links such as tttttnuts E E¹g g' discs D shaft A. crank arm M
right and left handed screwed shaft and pivotted nuts e e¹ substantially as
described and illustrated in the accompanying drawings.
Dated this 21st day of August 1891.
W. P. THOMPSON & BOULT,
Agents for the Applicant.