mprovements wing, au CHO means or Apparatus Employed therein.
Year: 1886

page_text: mprovements wing, au
CHO
means or Apparatus
Employed therein.
I LORENZ MUTHER of Chicago in the County of Cook and State of Illinois one
of the United States of America, Machinist do hereby declare the nature of my
invention for IMPROVEMENTS. IN, SEWING AND IN. THE MEANS OR APPARATUS.
EMPLOYED THEREIN and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be
particularly described and ascertained in and. by the following statement :—
This invention consists essentially in a sewing machine containing the following
instrumentalities, viz: a reciprocating needle-bar, two eye pointed needles carried
thereby and having their eyes located preferably at different distances from the
end of the needle-bar, each needle carrying its own thread; a thread carrying
looper having its pivot on a rocking frame; and means to vibrate the said looper
about its pivot and to rock the said frame, whereby the looper is made to enter the
loops of thread carried by both the said needles while the needles are down below
the material, and thereafter as the needles ascend and the looper enters farther.
into the loops of needle thread, the looper by a movement of the rocking frame is
placed in position to have the loop of its thread entered, by both needles at their
next descent, and while the needles are yet down below the material, the looper is
again.moved backward on its pivot, carried to the rear side of and made to enter
the two loops of needle thread preparatory to the ascent of the needles and their.
withdrawal from the material substantially as will be described..
My invention also consists in the combination in a sewing machine of a needle-
bar provided with two eye pointed thread carrying needles, and a looper carrying
a loop of thread and co-operating with the needles substantially as described to
form a stitch employing three threads, and a throat-plate having two needle holes
and an intermediate tongue to support the material and prevent it from being
puckered or gathered between the parallel lines of stitching represented by the
needle threads as will be described, the said tongue preferably being broader at and
beyond the needle holes toward the delivery end of the tongue.
My invention also relates to a method of producing a very elastic stitch with
three threads, the stitch being suitable for knitted material and embroidery, my
invention consisting in passing two loops of upper or needle thread through the
material and through a loop of. under or looper thread, and immediately thereafter-
while the loops of upper thread are yet in the material, passing a loop of looper-
thread through the two loops of upper thread below the said loop of looper thread,

page_text: then taking up the loops of upper thread while entered by the loop of under
thread, and thereafter, while the loops of upper thread are held below the material,
feeding or moving the material for a new stitch, all as will be described.
Fig. 1 in perspective represents a sewing machine embodying my present
improvements, the presser-foot and part of the spool carrying bracket being
omitted.
Fig. 1 is a plan view of some of the mechanism below the dotted line x¹ x¹
Fig. 2, the feeding mechanism and looper and looper-carrier being omitted, the
Fig. being added chiefly to shew the. take-up mechanism for the under or looper
thread.
Fig. 1 is a section of Fig. 1a in the line x-x².
Fig. 2 is an elevation of Fig. 1, with the cloth-plate in section, the cap for the
end of the shaft and the disc and crank-pin thereon being omitted.
Fig. 2 is a partial detail of the front part of the machine to be referred to.
Fig. 2 shows the throat-plate, detached, and a. section thereof looking in the
direction of the arrow.
Fig. 2 shows the feed-bar detached, and the eccentric and shaft to raise and
lower the feed-bar.
Fig. 2d the arm or yoke connecting the looper shaft with the main shaft.
Fig. 2 shows the looper and its holder in top or plan view.
Fig. 2 a detail of the looper holder 5.
Fig. 3 shows the looper in position for the loops of upper thread to descend
through the loop of under thread at the rear side of the looper.
Fig. 4 shows the needles and loops of upper thread entering the loop of under or
looper thread.
Fig. 5 shows the looper retracted from the loops of upper thread preparatory to
moving the looper laterally in the direction of the feed.
Fig. 6 shows the needles and loops of thread thrown out from the eyes of the
needles by a full descent and partial rise of the needles.
Fig. 7 shows the looper and the loop of its thread as passed through the two
loops of thread carried by the two needles, the looper passing close to the rear
sides of the two needles, or the farthest sides of the two needles in the direction of
the feed.
Fig. 8 represents the two needles raised and the feed as taking place, the loops
of needle or upper thread being held closely by the looper.
Fig. 9 is a detail of the stitching, the material being supposed to be transparent,
the different threads being shown by different lines, and
Fig. 10 a view of the side of the material on which the looper or under thread
is shown most prominently.
His the framework, C₁ the main rotating shaft, D¹ a disc connected to its outer
end, D an adjustable crank-pin carried by the said disc, D' a link jointed to an
arm D³ attached to a pivoted frame De on which is pivoted the bar D' to which is
attached the feeding device d.
A portion d of the bar D7 carrying the feeding device surrounds a suitable
eccentric 36 on the shaft. C, the bar D7 being moved up and down by the said
eccentric, the forward and backward motion of the feed being made by the
crank-pin D, and link D².
The shaft C, near its rear end, has an eccentric which is embraced by a part of
a link B² attached to one end of the needle bar actuating-lever B, pivoted at B*,
and connected by a link to the needle bar c, all as usual.
A² is a rocking-frame or support shaped like a yoke and connected at one end
by a screw 60 with a rock-shaft 22 having its bearing in uprights 24, 25, the other
end of the said frame having a pivot 20 extended into the upright 23 loosely.
The rock-shaft 22 has attached to it a yoke shaped arm A³, shown separately in
Fig. 2d, which embraces a suitable eccentric 86 fast on the main shaft C, the said
eccentric being of suitable shape to rock the frame A² at the proper times, as will
be described.

page_text: The rocking-frame A³ carries. the stud or pivot m on which is placed the looper-
holder 5 to which is attached the looper A, it having two eyes for the reception of
the looper thread from the spool 2.
:
The looper-holder 5 has ball like projection 6, see Figs. 2ª and 2.
The lower end of the lever B has a similar ball projection 32.
A¹ is a connecting-rod, the ends of which embrace the two balls 6 and 32.
Tis. the needle hole or throat-plate through which the needles a, b, and the
feed d work, and t is a tongue extended forward from the needle holes 12, 13, the
said tongue being preferably a little broader toward its outer end and rounded at
its under side, e is the presser-foot provided with two needle holes...
The needle-bar c has two eye-pointed needles a, b. The eye of the needle a is
set further from the end of the needle-bar than the eye of the needle b, so that the
eyes of the said needles may stand in the line of the arc in which the looper A
moves to enter the loops of thread carried by the needles.
The needle a is supplied with thread a¹, and the needle b with thread b¹, each
from a suitable spool or bobbin.
The needle-bar at its upper end has a loop or eye 44, which, in connection with
the eye 45, on the vibrating bar E, serves as a take-up for the loops of needle
thread.
.
:
The loop of under or looper thread c² is passed under the spring 50 and between
it and the spring 51, located immediately below it and shown by breaking away
the spring 50 in Fig. 1, the said springs forming a clamp for the looper thread.
The spring 51, while the slack in the looper thread is being taken up, is acted
upon by a projection 52 at the inner side of the rocking-frame A³, see Fig. 1b,
the said projection causing the two springs to at that time clamp the under
thread. From these two springs the under thread is extended through holes in
two arms 54, 55.
These two arms are located at each side of a cam 65, composed of two like
D-shaped plates having a space between them, the straight portions 66 of the
plates acting upon the thread between the two arms 54, 55, when the slack is to
be taken up in the under or looper thread, carrying said thread upward upon the
inclined surface of a thread rest 46.
The D-shaped plates 65, arms 54, 55, and the thread-rest 46, constitute a
Suppose the two needles and the looper to have been provided each with its own
proper thread, and a stitch to have been made, and the needles to be again
descending, and the feed to have taken place.
Now with the parts in the positions referred to, the looper will occupy the
position shown in Fig. 3, with relation to the needles.
To make the next stitch, the needles in their farther descent will descend at the
rear side of the looper A and pass into the loop of looper thread, each needle
entering the said loop at the further or left hand side of the loop of its own thread
yet held on the looper shank, as shown in Fig. 4.
In this condition the needles a, b, will continue to descend, as shown in Fig. 5,
and the looper will be drawn backward to the right past the needle band will then
be moved somewhat laterally in the direction of the feed of the material, and the
needle-bar commencing to rise will throw out their loops of needle thread, as in
Fig. 6, in usual manner, and the looper A coming forward as the needles a, b, rise,
will enter both loops of upper or needle thread at the rear side of the needles in
the direction of the feed of the material, as in Fig. 7, and the looper having
engaged the loops of needle thread, the needles will be fully lifted, drawing their
loops closely about the looper, and the feed will then take place, and as the feed
takes place the looper will be moved slightly in the direction opposite the direction.
of feed to thus enable it to occupy a position at the front side of the needles.as.

page_text: the latter again descend to form a new stitch, the said needles again entering a new
loop of looper thread.
In the formation of the stitching herein described, the stitch is completed by the
pull on the threads in the production of the succeeding stitch, or in other words,
one stitch is not made and set fully into the material before the next stitch is
commenced.
The general shape of the looper is such as to cause the looper, as it is vibrated
in the loops of upper thread, to draw the loop of looper thread, then upon it and
extending from the needle, to one side far enough to permit the needle a to descend
through the said loop of looper thread at the left hand side of the loop of needle
thread a then on the looper.
In the stitch the thread from needle a is marked a³, the thread from needle 6 is
marked 6, the looper thread being marked c', and by an inspection of the drawings
Figs. 9 and 10, it will be seen that the threads carried by the needles ab have
their loops drawn close up to the underside of the material substantially in the
usual shuttle stitch, and each loop of looper thread, by the manipulations described
and by the excess of tension on the needle threads, is made to extend entirely
through two loops of needle thread, and the end or bight of the loop is entered at
a distance of one stitch by a loop of needle thread, a part of the said loop of
looper thread, as at 10, being carried away from its other half or part by a second
loop of needle thread.
In the formation of the seam or stitches by the mechanism described, the needle ά
descends through the needle-hole 12 in the combined needle-throat and feed plate T,
at one side of the tongue t, while the needle b descends through the needle-hole 13
at the opposite side of the said tongue, the latter supporting the under side of
the cloth or other material in which the stitches are taken, between the two
lines where the said needles penetrate the said material, the said tongue continuing
to support the said material while the loop of looper thread is being pulled and
the stitch is being set or drawn taut, the tongue acting to prevent the material
from being puckered or drawn or bunched between the lines of stitches.
The tongue makes it possible to leave the loops of third or looper thread at the
under side of the material, lying flat thereon and of substantially equal lengths,
thus presenting a uniform width of seam, and by making the tongue wider towards
its delivery end and rounding its under side the tongue is better adapted to enable
the stitch to be set accurately and be delivered of uniform tightness and finish.
After the stitches have been finished or drawn taut into the material, the move-
ment of the latter by the feed-bar causes part of the stitching, (which includes the
looper thread, the latter as the stitch is drawn taut crossing the under side of the
tongue) to pass from the end of the tongue.
Seams in elastic goods such as knitted fabrics must have substantially as much
elasticity as has the material in which the stitching is made,, and in such work as
well as embroidery work it is frequently desired to show most prominently a better
or more expensive under thread.
In accordance with my invention the better or more expensive thread in the
looper is displayed by making more tension on the needle threads than upon the
looper or under thread, the latter being made not only to extend through the loops
of the upper thread but also to extend from one to the next stitch in the line of
stitching, the said looper thread extending across the material from one to the other
line of stitching, and from the points at which the needles penetrate the material.
A difference in tension upon the said threads will vary the appearance of the
stitch as to the eye, but not its elastic property or strength which is the main object
of my invention.
Prior to my invention I am aware that loops of thread carried by two needles
have been entered by a shuttle, the thread of the latter thus connecting the parallel
rows of stitches, but such a stitch has not a proper amount of elasticity for use ip
connection with knitted goods

page_text: Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is :-
1. A sewing machine containing the following instrumentalities, viz:-a recip-
rocating needle-bar, two eye-pointed needles carried thereby and having their eyes
located preferably at different distances from the end of the needle-bar, each needle
carrying its own thread; a thread carrying looper having its pivot on a rocking
frame; and means to vibrate the said looper about its pivot and to rock the said
frame, whereby the looper is made to enter the loops of thread carried by both
the said needles while the needles are down below the material, and thereafter as
the needles ascend and the looper enters farther into the loops of needle thread,
the looper by a movement of the rocking frame is placed in position to have its
loop entered by both needles at their next descent, and while the needles are yet
down below the material the looper is again moved backward on its pivot m,
carried to the rear side of and made to enter the two loops of needle thread
preparatory to the ascent of the needles and their withdrawal from the material,
substantially as described.
2. In a sewing machine, the combination of a needle-bar provided with two eye-
pointed thread carrying needles, and a looper carrying a loop of thread and
cooperating with the needles, substantially as described, to form a stitch employing
three threads, and a throat-plate having two needle holes and an intermediate
tongue to support the material and prevent it from being puckered or gathered
between the parallel lines of stitching represented by the needle threads, substan-.
tially as described.
3. The herein described method of forming an elastic stitch from three threads,
which consists in passing two loops of upper or needle thread through the material
and through a loop of under or looper thread, and immediately thereafter while
the loops of upper thread are yet in the material, passing a loop of looper thread
through the two loops of upper thread below the said loop of looper thread, then
taking up the loops of upper thread while entered by the loop of under thread,
and thereafter while the loops of upper thread are held below the material feeding
or moving the material for a new stitch, all substantially as described.
A
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