Improvements in and relating to Sewing Machines.
Year: 1896

page_text: Date of Application, 10th Mar., 1896-Accepted, 16th May, 1896
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
[Communicated from abroad by FRANK WESTON WHITCHER, of No. 17 Melville
Avenue, Boston, in the County of Suffolk and State of Massachusetts, United
States of America, Merchant.]
Improvements in and relating to Sewing Machines.
I, HENRY HARRIS LAKE, of the Firm of Haseltine, Lake & Co., Patent
Agents, 45 Southampton Buildings, in the County of Middlesex, do hereby
declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:-
My invention has for its object to provide an improved sewing machine which is
more particularly adapted for use in producing an imitation stitch formed by
forcing a loop of thread into the stock, which is frequently employed for purposes
of ornamentation in the manufacture of leather goods and the like, but my invention
is also adapted for use in securing two or more pieces of leather or similar material
together. The invention consists in the peculiar construction and arrangement of
the parts of the mechanism in which it is embodied, all as hereinafter more fully
set forth and described and the novel and characteristic features of which are
particularly pointed out in the claims at the end of this Specification.
In the following description reference is made to the accompanying drawings
in which I have shown my invention in the best form now known to me, and in
which
Fig. 1 is a side elevation of a machine embodying my invention, the view being
from the rear side or that which is away from the operator as the machine stands
on the bench.
Fig. 2 is a view in side elevation of the head of the machine with certain portions
broken away.
Fig. 3 is a view of the head of the machine in elevation from the right-hand side
in Figs. 1 and 2.
Fig. 4 is an inverted or bottom view of the presser-foot and adjacent parts.
Fig. 5 shows side and plan views of the preferred form of stitch-slackener.
Fig. 6 shows similar views of the pivot for said stitch slackener.
Figs. 7 and 8 are details showing the manner of mounting and adjusting the
tool-bar.
Fig. 9 is a detail of the cam by means of which the devices for clamping the
work-post are operated.
Fig. 10 is a detail of the cam and its lever by means of which the awl-feed is
operated.
Fig. 11 is a vertical central section showing the automatic work-post and the
method of mounting the same, as also the clamp by means of which the post is held
rigid at certain times in the operation of the machine.
Fig. 12 is a detail in elevation of the housing or sleeve in which the work post is
mounted.
Figs. 13 and 14 are elevations from different points of view of the preferred form
of awl employed in my machine, and showing the indenting marker which is formed
thereon.
Figs. 15 and 16 are modified forms of said awl and marker.
Figs. 17 and 18 are diagrammatic views showing the working of the machine.

page_text: Referring to the drawings, A is the frame of the machine, which is of the well
known goose-neck pattern, and which is provided with a base plate B, preferably
integral therewith and preferably of circular form. This base plate is intended to
fit within a correspondingly shaped recess in a metal base, not shown, upon which
the machine is placed when it is in use. This arrangement, of a circular base B
which fits within a correspondingly shaped socket or recess in the plate or stand
upon which the machine is placed, allows the machine to be turned around
conveniently by the operator when for any reason he wishes to get at the rear side
of the machine, that is, the side which is shown in Fig. 1. The machine is
intended to be clamped to the bench in well known manner, and it is only necessary
for the operator to loosen the clamp and turn the machine around on its circular
base B to get at the rear side thereof. The rear side of the frame A is open, so
that the working parts may be readily gotten at by the operator. In the frame A
is journalled the main shaft 1 which is provided with a fly-wheel 22 and
pulleys 23, 23, in the usual manner. At the opposite end of the shaft 1 and within
the frame is secured a disk 2 which is provided with a double crank 3. The double
crank consists of a pin 310, a bar or connection 330 and another crank-pin 320
extending from said bar at the opposite end thereof and in an opposite direction
from the said pin 310. The said pin 310 is rigidly secured in place in the face of
the disk 2, so that the pins 310 and 320 and the bar 330 revolve with the said
disk 2. A link 4 is pivoted to the crank-pin 310 and at its opposite end to an
adjustable collar 41, which is secured to the tool-bar 5. A link 6 is pivoted at one
end on the pin 320 and at the opposite end to an adjustable collar 61, which is
secured to the awl-bar 7. By this construction, above described, the awl bar and
tool-bar are alternately reciprocated, one moving up as the other moves down. The
said bars are mounted in the usual manner to permit them to slide vertically in a
frame C which constitutes a part of the head of the machine and which is pivoted
at D, to an upright E on the forward end of the goose-neck frame A, as will be
clear from Fig. 1. By so mounting the frame C, which carries the tool bar and
awl-bar, as above described, it is permitted to swing laterally, and thus the said bars
are moved Interally as well as vertically, thus providing for the feeding forward of
the work by the awl. For the purpose of moving the said swinging frame C
laterally, and causing the awl 71 to feed the work forward, a rock-shaft 11 is
provided which is journalled in projections 12, 12, on the frame of the machine.
At one end of the shaft 11, is secured an arm 13, having a cam-roll 14 which
co-operates with a cam 15 secured on the main shaft 1. At the opposite or forward
end of the rock-shaft 11 is secured a curved slotted arm 16. A link 17 is secured
by means of a bolt 18 in the curved slot of the said arm 16, said curved slot being
provided for the purpose of permitting the adjustment of the link 17 relatively to
said arm, so that the lateral movement of the swinging frame C may be increased
or diminished when it is desired to vary the extent of the feed movement. The
opposite end of the link 17 is pivotally connected with the lower end of the
frame C, at the rear or inside thereof, the connection being indicated at 161, Fig. 3.
The parts above described are so timed that the feed movement of the awl is
obtained while the latter is in the work.
The tool-bar 5, which is arranged as heretofore described to slide vertically,
passes through a block 411 which is set in a recess formed in the upper part of the
frame C, see Fig. 7, and held therein by means of a screw 412, having a conical
point which bears in said block and permits the block to be turned on said screw,
the latter serving as a pivot. The lower bearing of the bar is a block 611 set in a
recess formed in the lower part of the frame C. This block is provided with a
pin 612 having a rounded head secured in a correspondingly shaped socket in said
block, to permit the pin to be moved relatively to said block. The shank of the
pin is threaded and projects into an exteriorly and interiorly threaded sleeve 613
set in the frame C as shown. By turning the said sleeve the block 611 may be
moved and the bar 5 adjusted laterally toward or away from the awl bar. Such
an adjustment of the parts is necessary when the length of the stitch is varied.

page_text: The tool-bar 5 is shaped at its lower end as shown and is provided with suckets in
which the stitch forming tool 19 and pricker 20 are held by securing screws 21, 24
respectively. An adjusting screw 25 which bears at its inner end against the
shank of the pricker affords a means of adjusting the said pricker laterally
relatively to the stitch forming tool 19. The tool 19 is notched at its lower or
operating end to ensure its engaging and holding the thread while forcing the latter
into the stock. Since the vertical line of movement of the awl is close to that of
the stitch forming tool, it is necessary to provide against the abrasion or cutting
of the thread by the awl in its descent, and it is also necessary to present
the thread accurately and at the proper time in the path of the stitch forming tool.
To effect these objects the thread is controlled by a thread carrier or guide
constructed as hereinafter set forth. The character of the stitches which are
formed by the operation of a machine such as herein described will be clear from
an examination of Figs. 17 and 18. A line of said stitches consists of a series of
connected loops of thread, each loop being placed in an aperture or awl-hole in the
stock by the aid of a stitch-former, which as previously described, is notched at its
lower or operative end, the notch operating to hold the thread while it is forced
downwardly into the hole which has been made by the awl. The stitch-forming
tool at each descent thereof tends to draw upon the loop of thread last inserted
into the work, and may operate to partially withdraw the same from the work, thus
producing a defective stitch and causing the stitches in a given line to have loops
of unequal length. To overcome this difficulty, I provide a device shown at 8,
which term a stitch-slackener. As shown, it is mounted adjacent to the stitch
forming point and in its operation it is caused to engage with the thread of each
stitch, during the first portion of the process of forming the latter, to hold distended
the loop of thrend of which said stitch is constituted, and thereby producing
sufficient slack to enable the new stitch to be completed without drawing upon that
last formed. The device is withdrawn from the loop before the stitch-forming
tool 19 has completed its downward movement, so that the slack in the loop of
thread is entirely taken up in the stitch.
A convenient means of supporting and operating the stitch-slackener device 8 ist
as follows: At 81 is an arm which at its upper end is pivotally connected at 82 to
the block or collar 341 on the presser bar 32, the said arm having the stitch-
slackener 8 pivotally mounted upon its lower end. The stem or shank of a headed
pin 83 passes upwardly through a hole 84 in the stitch slackener and into a hole.
that is formed in the said lower end of arm 81, the pin being clamped in place in
the said hole in the said arm by a screw 85. Thereby, the stitch slackener is
mounted in a manner which enables it to work in a substantially horizontal plane
at the lower end of arm 81. This secures capacity for movement of the working
end of the stitch-slackener back and forward in the direction of the line of feed.
The pivotal connection of the arm 81 with the collar or block 341 is such as to
enable the said arm to swing in a direction at right angles to the line of feed. To
swing the arm in this direction I form the arm with a cam-slot 86 and in the said
cam-slot plays a pin or roller 87, which is carried by a block or collar 88, that is
made fast on the tool-bar 5. The movement of the stitch-slackener back and
forward in the direction of the line of feed is produced by causing the rearwardly
extending arm of the stitch slackener to pass through a hole in a vertical pin 89
which latter is fitted to the interior 90 of a hollow post 91, extending downwardly
from the swinging frame C. The movement of the frame C thereby is transmitted
to the stitch-slackener 8. The working end of the stitch-alackener 8 extends
through an opening 95 formed in the presser-foot 31.
The arrangement of thread guide employed is as follows: 92 is a pin secured in
a hole at the lower extremity of arm 81. The said pin projects laterally through
a hole 94 in the side wall of the presser foot 31, and the thread passes through an
aperture formed in the outer end of said pin adjacent to the awl 71 and stitch-
forming tool 19. The pin 92 by this arrangement is reciprocated in substantially
a straight line carrying the thread into and out of the path of movement of the

page_text: stitch-forming tool. The operation of these parts, namely, the thread guide and
stitch-slackener is as follows:
In Fig. 3 the parts are shown in the position which they occupy while the awl
is in the work y and about to feed the latter in the direction of the arrow in such
figure. Fig. 4 shows the same in inverted position. It is to be noted that the
thread guide 92 is retracted so far to the rear in Fig. 3 as to withdraw the thread
entirely out of the path of the awl. This withdrawal takes place during the
descent of the awl, and in season to obviate all liability of the thread being cut by
the awl. The feed movement of the frame C turns the stitch slackener 8 upon
its pivot 83 and swings its working end into position to be inserted under the portion
of thread which leads upward from the last stitch to the slightly elevated thread
guide 92. As the awl rises and stitch forming tool descends, the pin or roller 87
working in the slot 86 causes the arm 81 to swing to the right in Fig. 2, carrying
the thread guide 92 into such position as to place the thread z uuder the stitch-
forming tool in position to be engaged by the lower end of the latter, and at the
same time carrying the working end of the stitch slackener 8 in under the raised
thrend, adjacent to the last stitch. The position of the parts, as the stitch forming
tool 19 reaches the work, is shown in Fig. 17, in which it will be seen that the
working end of the stitch slackener device 8 occupies the bight of the loop of
thread pertaining to the stitch in éourse of formation. After the lower end of
tool 19 enters the work, the stitch-slackener device 8 is withdrawn from under the
thread, thereby, yielding up sufficient slack for the completion of the stitch. As
the bar 5 completes its down stroke, the pricker acts upon the work. Fig. 18 shows
the stitch-slackener device 8, stitch forming tool 19, and pricker 20 in the positions
which are occupied by them at the completion of the stitch.
In stitching, especially for the purposes of ornamentation, it is often deemed
desirable to mark the line of stitches with a series of transversely extending
indentations or marks, one of such indentations being placed at the end of each
stitch opposite the point where the latter joins the succeeding stitch. These marks
or indentations should each extend at right angles to the line of stitching, and when
the line is curved, as at the toe of a shoe, the indentations or marks should each be
radial to the curve of the line, otherwise the ornamental effect will be impaired.
For the purpose of forming these indentations or marks when the stitching is being
done and also for the purpose of forming them in the proper radial position at a
curve, as previously stated to be desirable, I provide an awl for use in my machine,
said awl being provided with an indenting marker 701, having its operative end
arranged at right angles to the line of stitches, and which at each descent of the
awl makes an indentation or depression in the work. The character of said marker
will be clearly understood by reference to Figs. 13, 14, 15 and 16. The indenting
marker 701 may be made integral with the awl and projecting therefrom at the
upper end of the point or operative portion thereof, or it may be formed
independently of the awl and either secured thereto or secured firmly in position
beside the awl in the awl-har. The edge of the marker is wedge-shaped and
preferably extends at right angles to a line paraiiei with the longitudinal axis of
the awl. At each down stroke of the awl, when the awl bas about reached the
lowest point of its movement, the marker produces an indentation or depression in
the stock adjacent to the awl-hole. Since the indenting marker projects at a right
angle to the line of feed, as shown, the indentations or depressions will be produced
at right angles to the line of stitching, and since in forming a curved line of
stitches the stock is turned on the awl, a marker formed on the awl, or secured
thereto, as above described, ensures the indentations or marks being made in the
proper position radially to the line of the curve. The operative edge of the
marker may be varied in shape to produce variations or marks of any shape
desired, or the edge may be formed oblique, as shown in Fig. 15, so that one
portion thereof will make a deeper and more clearly defined indentation in the
stock than the other portion. It will also be clear that in case the indentations
are desired at both sides of the line of stitches an awl having a marker of the form

page_text: shown Fig. 16 may be employed. Such an awl has in effect two markers, one on
each side thereof, projecting in opposite directions therefrom, and will have the
effect in use of indenting or marking both sides of the line of stitches. By the use
of an indenting marker of the kind herein described, a great variety of indentations
or marks may be readily produced, and I am enabled to form these indentations or
depressions at the time the stitching is doue, thus avoiding any subsequent handling
of the work, as is necessary when the indenting or marking is effected by an
independent operation.
The
The presser-foot 31 is of usual form, and is mounted in the usual manner at the
lower end of the presser-bar 32, which latter is arranged to slide in a frame C¹
which is rigidly secured to the goose neck in any well known manner.
spring 331 which is compressed between the upper part of the frame C¹ and
the adjustable collar 341, which is secured upon the presser-bar, serves to hold
the presser-foot in engagement with the work. As the tool-bar ascends, and
during the time at which the feed takes place, the projection 35 on the upper end
of the tool-bar engages the collar 36 on the upper end of the presser-bar and raises
the presser-foot from the work, freeing the latter and permitting it to be fed
forward.
The spring arm 511 which is secured to the rear side of the frame, as shown, is
provided with an eye through which the thread passes on its way from the wax-pot
to the thread-carrier. This arm has a spring sufficient to take up the slack in the
thread and is a well known device for this purpose. The wax-pot, which is not
shown, may be of any well known form and construction and may be mounted in
the well known manner on the frame of the machine. The thread passes from a
thread-holder of any well known description, located in convenient proximity to
the machine, through the wax-pot and thence to the stitch forming mechanism,
a suitable tension device being employed if desired.
The work post 413 is so constructed and mounted as to automatically adjust
itself to any thickness of stock which may be placed in the machine. It is held
rigid while a stitch is being formed, and until the end of the feed movement, when
it is free to adjust itself in case the stock shall have varied in thickness at the
point at which the succeeding stitch is to be formed. The work post is shown
at 413, see particularly Fig. 11, and it is provided with preferably a slotted work
plate 42, the slot in said plate being formed to accommodate the awl in case it
should pass through the work. The post 413 is mounted in a sleeve or housing 43,
in such manner that it may slide vertically therein. The lower end of the post 413
is cored out to receive the spring 44, the lower end of said spring resting on a
projection 45, secured inside the base of frame A, as shown in Fig. 1. The said
spring 44 supports the post 413 when the latter is not rigidly clamped as hereinafter
described, and said spring is of less force than the spring 331, which tends to hold
the presser foot down in engagement with the work, so that when the work post is
not clamped the work-plate 42 will be forced upwardly against the under side of
the work, but will not force the work upwardly against the pressure of the presser-
foot.
A screw 431 is fitted to a threaded hole in the sleeve 43. The inner end of
this screw 431 lies in a vertical groove 432 formed in the post 413 and prevents the
same from turning in its support. By this arrangement the presser foot will always
move downwardly to the same point, the latter being determined by the nuts 332, 332,
upon the screw-threaded upper end of the presser-bar, the lower of which nuts
engages with the upper end of the frame C', while the work-post will be depressed
or raised in accordance with the thickness of the work. It is important that the
presser-foot be at the same vertical point at all times when the stitch forming
mechanism is operating, since the upper surface of the work must occupy the same.
position with reference to the vertical movement of the marking and stitch-forming
tools. The sleeve 43 is set in a hole 433 in the frame A, as shown, its annular
projecting flange 46 resting on top of the base of the frame A. Said flange is
provided with holes through which pass the bolts 47, which serve to secure the

page_text: sleeve in place. The sleeve 43 is cut away at one side, as shown at 48, Figs. 11
and 12, to accommodate the clamping device 49. The latter consists of a split
collar, having projections at one side thereof, which are shown at 50. The collar
encircles the shank of the work-post and it will be clear that if the collar is pinched
upon the post, the latter will be held rigid and prevented from vertical movement.
For the purpose of pinching or compressing the clamp, a rock-shaft 51 is provided,
which is mounted in the base of the frame, as shown Fig. 1, by means of conical
bearings 52, 53, set in bosses in said frame, and which permit any wear to be
readily taken up. The shaft 51 passes through the projections 50 on the clamping
collar 49. On the said shaft, at one side of the said projection 50, is secured a
collar 521, which serves as a bearing against which the force which compresses the
clamp is exerted. At the other side of the projections 50, a collar 531 is secured
on said shaft 51, said collar 531 having a beveled or cam face 54, which co-operates
with a correspondingly beveled portion of the proximate projection 50. Check
nuts 55 serve to adjust and hold the collar 531 in place, said collar 531 being
prevented from rotating on the shaft 51 by means of a feather or spline. It will
be obvious that if the shaft 51 be rocked, the beveled faces of the collar 531 and
adjacent projection 50 will move relatively to each other, and will cause the clamp
to be loosened or compressed. The work post is normally gripped by the clamp
and held rigid, but at one point in the operation of the machine, namely at the end
of each feed movement, the shaft 51 is rocked slightly, freeing the clamp 49, and
allowing the work-post to accommodate itself to any variation which may have
occurred in the thickness of the stock. For the purpose of rocking the shaft 51,
I provide an arm 56, secured to said shaft, and which is provided with a pin 57
which engages the lower sliding end 58 of the arm 59. The latter projects from
a sleeve cr boss 60 which is pivotally secured within the frame A. An arm 61
projects upwardly from said boss 60 and is provided at its upper end with a cam
roll 62, which is held in engagement with a cam 63 on the main shaft 1, by means
of spring 66 which is secured to the frame A. The cam 63 is more clearly shown
in Fig. 9. By means of the above described mechanism, the work post clamp 49
is free during a portion of each revolution of the main shaft.
The machine is durable in construction, economical in operation and is so readily
adjusted to produce stitches of different lengths, as also to carry the thread
vertically a greater or less distance into the stock, that even wholly unskilled
operators may very readily learn to operate the machine.
Having now particularly ascertained and described the nature of the said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, as communicated to me by
my foreign correspondent, I declare that what I claim is ;-
1. Stitching mechanism having a stitch forming tool and a pricker, and also
operating means therefor, and whereby as each stitch is formed the said pricker is
caused to enter between two stitches to prick up the latter.
2. Stitching mechanism having a stitch forming tool which punches the thread
into the work and thereby forms its stitch, and a stitch slankener device to engage
the loop of the stitch being driven into the work by the said tool and provide
sufficient thread for the completion thereof, thereby preventing the previous stitch
from being withdrawn from the work.
3. Stitching mechanism having a stitch forming tool which punches the thread
into the work and thereby forms its stitch, and the herein-described stitch-slackener
device and its actuating connections.
4. Stitching mechanism having an awl, a stitch-forming tool such as described,
and the thread guide fitted to a hole in the presser-foot and having operating
means to actuate it to remove the thread from the path of the awl at the descent
of the latter, and to place the thread in the path of the descending stitch-forming
tool.
5. Stitching mechanism having an awl provided with an indenting marker

page_text: projecting therefrom at right angles to the line of feed and operating to produce
indentations or impressions side by side in the work at right angles to the line of
stitching.
6. Stitch forming mechanism having a vertically movable spring supported work-
post and the herein-described means for clamping and releasing the same.
Dated this 10th day of March 1896.
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
45 Southampton Buildings, London, W.C., Agents for the Applicant..