Improvements in Sewing Machines.
Year: 1888

page_text: Date of Application, 1st Oct., 1888
Complete Specification Left, 1st July, 1889-Accepted, 3rd Aug.,
1889
Improvements in Sewing Machines.
I, WILLIAM HENRY DORMAN, of The Hawthorns, Newport Road, Stafford in the
county of Stafford, Engineer do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as
follows:-
My invention consists in improvements in that class of sewing machines that
produce the stitch known as the "Lock-stitch," and that are especially adapted to tho
heavier class of work such as sewing the soles of boots & shoes, harness stout boot
uppers &c.
In "Lock stitch" sewing machines of this class as at present made, the thread that
passes through the loops made by the needle, and known as the shuttle thread, is
carried in a cavity or reservoir in the shuttle, out of which it gradually runs as the
sewing in its progress takes it up. When stout thread is used, the shuttle becomes of
considerable size, and it is needful to cause the loop drawn up by the needle to be
very large to allow the shuttle and necessary mechanism to pass through it.
This long loop is a very serious objection as is well known to users of these
machines. In order to obviate this defect, I substitute for the shuttle, a needle, which
for distinction I call a needle-shuttle, which has an eye somewhere near the middle
part of its length, and which is threaded with a definite length of thread not longer
than the dimension of the parts concerned of the machine will permit to be used.
The first stitch taken fastens the loose end of this thread, the needle-shuttle is then
made to pass through each successive loop formed by the needle in the usual manner
until the thread is worked up till it is too short to be longer useable. A fresh length
of thread is then put in the needle-shuttle, and the work proceeds. I carry this
needle-shuttle in a race, of construction somewhat similar to the ordinary race but of
greatly increased length, to accomodate the increased travel of the needle-shuttle, and
in most cases, I prefer to make the race circular, so as to permit the needle-shuttle
driver to work from a pivot or centre.
The driver is worked from a cam (timed to suit the motion of the needle) by
suitable intervening mechanism adapted to the general construction of the machine to
which my improvements are applied.
In many cases especially in connection with boots & shoes, as for instance, in
stitching the welts of boots or shoes, for which purpose the machine known as the
New Goodyear Stitcher is greatly used, it is desirable in adopting my improvements,
to make the needle-shuttle move in a circular race, as small in diameter as possible-
a race of comparatively large diameter interferes with the due manipulation of the
boot by the operator. In order to do this, I make the race so small that the needle-
shuttle will carry the thread through the loop formed by the needle only far enough
to enable the thread to be caught by a "take up" lever which carries away the slack
thread without requiring the needle-shuttle to traverse a large space. One of these
"take up" levers is mounted at each side of the needle-shuttle race to take up the
slack thread in both directions.
The shuttle thread is always diminishing in length as the sewing goes forward.
To meet this, the take up levers are mounted with a spring-connection on the shaft
that actuates them, so as to allow them to adapt themselves to this continual variation
in the length of thread to be taken up.
The "take up" levers are worked by suitable intervening connections from cams on
the machine shaft, which are timed to work correctly with the other moving parts of
the mechanism.
"
The stitch is "pulled up" partly by the needle & partly by another "take up'
lever, furnished with a truck over which the needle thread passes on the way to the
needle. This "take up"-lever is also worked from a cam on the machine shaft, timed

page_text: ،،
to draw up the stitch at the proper moment. The machine is also furnished with a
locking mechanism to hold fast the thread coming to the needle during the time the
"take up" is tightening the stitch. In place of the cast off commonly used in chain-
stitch machines, I use a shedder," to ensure the escape of the loop from the barb of
the needle. The "shedder is made like a cast off, but instead of having a point to
cover the barb, it is made with an inclined side to push the thread off from the
needle.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Sewing Machines.
I WILLIAM HENRY DORMAN of the Hawthorns Newport Road Stafford in the
County of Stafford Engineer do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in
what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement :-
My invention consists in improvements in that class of sewing machines that
produce the stitch known as the "Lock Stitch" and that are especially adapted to
the heavier class of work, such as sewing the soles of boots and shoes, harness,
stout boot uppers &c.
In "Lock stitch" sewing machines of this class as at present made, the thread
that passes through the loops made by the needle, and known as the shuttle thread,
is carried in a cavity or reservoir in the shuttle, out of which it gradually runs as
the sewing in its progress takes it up.
When stout thread is used, the shuttle becomes of considerable size, and it is
needful to cause the loop drawn up by the needle to be very large to allow the
shuttle and necessary mechanism to pass through it.
This long loop is a very
serious objection, as is well known to users of these machines.
In order to obviate this defect I substitute for the ordinary shuttle a shuttle or
needle, which for distinction I call a needle shuttle, which has an eye somewhere near
the middle part of its length, and which is threaded with a definite length of thread
not longer than the dimension of the parts concerned of the machine will permit to
be used.
The first stitch taken by the needle is caused to fasten the loose end of this thread
the needle-shuttle is then made to pass through each successive loop formed by the
needle until the thread is worked up till it is too short to be longer useable.
A fresh length of thread is then put in the needle-shuttle and the work proceeds.
I carry this needle-shuttle in a race, of construction somewhat similar to the
ordinary race, but of greatly increased length to accomodate the increased travel of
the needle-shuttle, and in most cases I prefer to make the raco circular, so as to
permit the needle-shuttle driver to work from a pivot or centre. The driver is
worked from a cam (timed to suit the motion of the needle) by suitable intervening
mechanism adapted to the general construction of the machine to which my improve-
ments are applied.
In many cases especially in connection with boots. and shoes as for instance in
stitching the soles to the welts of boots or shoes, for which purpose the machine known
as the New Goodyear Stitcher is greatly used, it is desirable in adopting my improve-
ments, to make the needle-shuttle move in a circular race, as small in diameter as
possible. A race of comparatively large diameter interferes with the due manipu-
lation of the boot by the operator. In order to do this I make the race so small that
the needle-shuttle will carry the thread through the loop formed by the needle, only
far enough to enable the thread to be caught by a take-up" lever which carries away
the slack thread without requiring the needle-shuttle to traverse a large space.
of these "take-up" levers is mounted at each side of the needle-shuttle race so as to
take up the slack thread in both directions.
"
One
In order to prevent the bight or turn of thread from escaping over the ends of the

page_text: take-up lever pins I provide spring covers which are fixed to the upper part of the
take-up levers and press upon the ends of the pins.
To permit the thread to escape off the take-up lever pins these spring covers are
opened at the proper times by cams upon the machine shaft acting upon suitably
arranged levers and connections and when thus open other levers which I call thread
releasing levers are caused to come into operation and push the bight of thread off
from the take-up pins. These thread releasing levers are pivotted to a fixed part of
the machine & worked by suitable cams upon the machine shaft.
The shuttle thread is always diminishing in length as the sewing goes forward.
To meet this the take-up levers are mounted with a spring-connection on the shaft
that actuates them, so as to allow them to adapt themselves to this continual variation
in the length of thread to be taken-up.
The "take-up" levers are worked by suitable intervening connections from cams
on the machine shaft, which are timed to work correctly with the other moving parts.
of the mechanism.
The stitch is "pulled up" partly by the needle in making the next loop & partly by
another "take-up" lover, furnished with a truck over which the needle thread passes
on the way to the needle. This "take-up" lever is also worked from a cam on the
machine shaft, timed to draw up the stitch at the proper moment.
"
The machine is also furnished with a locking mechanism to hold fast the thread
coming to the needle during the time the "take-up" is tightening the stitch.
In place of the cast-off commonly used in chain stitch machines I use a "shedder
to ensure the escape of the loop from the barb of the needle. The "shedder" is made
like a cast-off but instead of having a point to cover the barb it is made with an
inclined side to push the thread off from the needle.
The accompanying drawings show my invention as applied to that kind of machine
commonly known as the New Goodyear Stitcher.
Fig. 1. is a front elevation of the machine.
Fig. 2 is a plan.
Fig. 3. is an elevation of one side of the machine.
Fig. 4. is an elevation of the other side of the machine.
Fig. 5. is a front elevation of a portion of the machine.
Fig. 6. is a side elevation of the same portion.
Figs. 7 & 8. are views of the right hand Take up.
Figs. 10 & 11 are views of the left hand Take up.
Figs. 12 & 13. are views of the thread releasing lever.
Figs. 14 15 & 16 are views of the needle shuttle.
Fig. 17. is a view of the levers &c. for operating the Take up levers.
Figs. 18 & 19. are views of the "shedder."
Figs. 20. 21. & 22. are views of the needle shuttle race.
Figs. 23. 24. 25. & 26. are views shewing the action of the needle shuttle and
Take up levers upon the needle shuttle thread.
The same letters indicate the same parts.
a. is the frame of the machine having bearings b. 61 in which revolves the cam
shaft c. Upon the cam shaft c. are mounted the cams which give motion to the
various parts of the machine.
The work d. is carried upon a table e, which is attached to the table segment e¹
carried upon the pivot in the frame a.
The tooth at the end of the table segment e¹ enters a notch in the slide e. The
slide is pressed forward by a spring & so causes the table e. to be lightly but
sufficiently pressed against the under side of the work d.
The lock lever f. carried on the pivot f¹ in the frame a. is caused by the spring f
& rod to press upon the slide et & so cramp it as to prevent the table e. from
leaving the work. During the time of feeding of the work the cam f' releases the
lever and allows the table e. to open or close to accomodate any variations in the
thickness of the work. The Handle g. serves to unlock the lever f. and open
the table e. for the insertion of the work.
,

page_text: The awl h. & awl stock h¹ are carried upon the feed slide i. which is caused to
move to & fro by the feed lever and the feed cam i².
The toothed lever h³ pivotted at 3 and worked by the cam h* serves to operate
the awl. The needle j. in the stock 1 pivotted at in the frame a. is operated by
the cam and toothed lever pivotted at j.
The presser foot k. is carried in a slide upon the feed slide i. and is caused to rise
& fall by the cam k² acting upon the lever pivotted at k*.
The looper 7. is carried upon the lever pivotted at 1 & is caused to move around
the needle by the cam 13.
The above described parts are those used in the machine known as the New Good-
year Stitcher as ordinarily constructed.
As already mentioned I use instead of a "cast-off" as ordinarily made a part I
call a shedder which takes the place of the "cast-off" and is worked by the "cast-off"
mechanism that is to say.
The shedder m. is carried on the usual cast-off ring m¹ which works upon a
circular part of the needle stock j centrally with the pivot *.
The cast-off ring m¹ is furnished with teeth which engage with the teeth of the
pinion m³ upon the shaft m³. The split pinion m* upon the outer end of the shaft m³
is driven by the toothed lever m³ which is mounted upon the pivot me and worked
by the cam m upon the cam shaft c.
The needle shuttle n. is preferably made of a square section and is curved to suit
the curve decided upon for the race. It has an eye n¹ to receive one end of the
thread n which is secured to it. It is bevelled away on one side at the front end &
has a groove n³ on the outside for the thread, n' to lie in. The holes n' n³ are made
to receive the claws of the driver hereinafter described which drives the needle
shuttle n. to and fro through the loops pulled up by the needle. The driver x consists
of two hooked springs n n which are carried on a hub n and furnished at their
ends with claws or points n° n10 which enter the holes n n in the needle shuttle n.
The hub n is mounted on the shaft n upon a feather and is kept in place by the
spring n¹.
The shaft is caused to reciprocate by means of the pair of bevel gears o. o. which
receive motion through the shaft o' and the pinion o gearing into the toothed lever o³
from the cam of mounted on the cam shaft c. The toothed lever o³ is pivotted at o'
& has a spring o' to keep the cam roll o' in contact with the cam.
The needle shuttle race has a shoulder p. against which the needle-shuttle n. works,
& which is hereinafter further described. At the under side of the race is an opening p
to allow of the working of the needle & awl, and to give room for the loops of thread
drawn up by the needle. Across the front of this opening is formed a narrow bridge p
Figs. 5 & 6. and of which Fig. 21. is a view as seen from below. The object of this
bridge, which is really a fixed cam is to open the hooked springs nº n² of the driver
one at a time as they pass over it so as to allow the needle shuttle n to pass through
the loop.
The bridge or cam p³ first raises the front spring nº of the driver 2 sufficiently to
withdraw the claw n from the hole n in the needle shuttle n. and clear it over
the loop of thread while the rear spring n' by means of its claw n¹0 in the hole n°
continues to drive the needle shuttle n forward: the cam p² then allows the front
spring n to return and the claw nº to reenter the hole n and drive the needle
shuttle n. while the rear spring n' is in turn raised by the cam p³ and the rear
claw no withdrawn from the "hole n° and cleared over the loop of thread in the
same manner as the front one had previously been.
Each spring n & n' is alternately front & rear as the driver reciprocates and during
the passing of the needle shuttle n. through the loop one or other of the claws n³
or no is always occupying one or other of the holes n' or n³.
The shoulder p. of the needle shuttle race prevents the needle shuttle n. from
canting or getting out of position which it would otherwise do when held by one only
of the claws n° or n¹0.
.
The driver x can be drawn forward so as to disengage the claws nº 10 from the

page_text: needle shuttle n. when it is desired to withdraw the needle snuttle from the
1
the spring nyielding to allow this. Notches q. q. are formed in the edges of the
needle shuttle race to allow the take up lever pins q'q' to enter and leave.
The take-up levers 9
bracket a upon the frame a.
swing upon a shaft 9 which is cramped fast in the
On the upper ends of the levers g³ q³ are formed boxes which contain long coiled
clock springs 9 9. These springs are wound so as to cause the levers q' q³ to move
outwards left & right from the centre of the needle shuttle race in the directions shewn
by the arrows.
The left hand case r. is secured upon the hollow shaft r which turns in the
bearing a and is driven by the pinion secured upon the other end of the shaft.
The pinion is driven by the toothed lever which is secured upon the shaft 2.
The shaft has upon the other end a lever r and cam roll which are operated by
the cam mounted upon the cam shaft c. The case r. is thus made to receive a
reciprocating turning movement. A wide notch is made in the edge of the case r.
for the take up lever to work through and the shoulder of this notch presses
upon the lever and so forces it down, in opposition to the spring 9' when the
case r. is revolved by the cam 8.
In a similar manner the case s. is turned upon the shaft 93 by means of the
pinion which gears with the toothed lever & secured upon the hollow shaft
mounted in the bearing st. The shaft has upon its other end a lever and
cam roll which are operated by the cam s' and the case s. thus receives also a
reciprocating turning movement and the shoulder of the case s. presses upon the
lever & so forces it down in opposition to the spring q*.
Springs & keep the levers & rolls & in contact with the cams r & s'.
The thread releasing lever t. is made like a bell crank & is loosely mounted upon
one end of the shaft . It is operated by the cam * acting upon the cam roll t
The other thread releasing lever is secured to the other end of the shaft ti mounted
in the hearing t and is operated by the lever to also secured to the shaft t¹ and having
the cam roll which runs upon and is worked by the cam t³.
These levers t&t serve to push the bight of thread off from the take up pins q' q².
The rolls are held to the cams by the springs t° & t¹º.
The spring covers u u¹ are secured to the take-up levers q' 9' at their upper ends
and the free ends u² u³ of the springs press upon the ends of the take-up pins 9' q².
The pieces uu are secured to one end of the sliding bars u u' which slide to &
fro in bearings us on the frame a. The springs u keep the pieces u¹ u back from
the spring covers except when pushed forward by the action of the levers 410 411
which are pivotted to the frame at u u¹ and operated by the cams u¼ 1 mounted
on the cam shaft c.
น
The take up truck v. is mounted on the lever v¹ which is pivotted to the frame a
atv and worked by the cam v mounted on the cam shaft c.
The thread is locked at the back of the machine by a pad wo attached to a lever w¹
which is caused to press upon the thread in the truck w by the action of the cam to³
upon the lever roll w.
The spring w holds the pad off the thread when the cam w³ is out of action.
The action and mode of operation of the machine do not differ materially from those
in general use except as regards those parts which consitute my invention. The action
of which I will now more particularly describe.
The needle shuttle having been supplied with a piece of thread of suitable length
and placed in position in the machine the work is put in in the usual manner. The
first stitch having been taken by which the loose end of the needle shuttle thread is
fastened the operator pulling tight by hand the first stitch for this purpose the work
goes forward in the manner now about to be more particularly described. The Awl h
rises and pierces the work d the table e is unlocked & the work is fed forward by
the awl in the usual manner. The table e is then locked & the awl returns, .the
needle passes down through the work, the looper goes around it & lays the thread
เ
in the barb.

page_text: The needle then rises and draws a loop of thread up through the work. When
the needle has risen completely it returns again a very little & so opens somewhat the
loop of thread through which the needle shuttle n is then driven from left to right
by the action of the driver & its connections actuated by the cain o'. The right
cover spring u is opened by the cam 18, lever u10 & rod u' so as to allow the
driver to pass & is closed again immediately the driver x has gone by. The
Cams by means of the lever & toothed levers withdraws the shoulder s of the
right spring case & from the right take-up lever q which then is only prevented from
yielding to the spring 76, by the bight of thread which extends from the needle
shuttle n. around the right take-up-pin q' through the loop & around the left take-up-
pin & back to the last stitch in the work.
The Cam now causes the left spring case r to revolve carrying down the left
take-up lever q' with it. The pressure of the thread on the right take-up lever q³
being thus relaxed, the right take-up q' under the action of the spring 9. moves
outwards & upwards to the right and takes up the thread attached to the needle.
shuttle n as fast as the descent of the left take-up q² will permit.
As soon as the left take-up q' has come fairly into the notch q the left spring
cover u is opened by the cam u¹ and the thread releasing levert casts off the bight
of thread from the left-take-up q' & the shuttle-thread is fully taken up by the right
take-up q':
About this time the awl h has risen again & pierced the work.
Meanwhile the shedder m has moved down the needle ; & its inclined side acting.
upon the thread moves the loop away from the needle j. The loop is then nearly.
pulled down by the take-up v moved by the cam v³ and lever v¹.
While the loop is being pulled down, the thread is "locked" by the pad w acted
on by the cam wand the lever wo¹ so as to prevent any thread from being drawn
except from the loop left by the needle j. During this time the work is again fed.
forward..
'
The cam o now causes the needle shuttle n to return from right to left the left
cover spring being opened by the cam to allow the driver x to pass. The
shoulder of the left. spring case moves away from the left take up lever q³
actuated by the cam and lever & toothed lever
.
The left take up lever q³ follows in contact with it under the action of the spring *
(so far as the length of the needle shuttle thread will allow) and takes with it the
needle shuttle thread drawing down the right take up lever g the left take up lever
spring being the stronger. When the right take up lever q has arrived fully
into the notch q it is, there held by the shoulder 88 of the case & which has followed.
it down actuated by the cam s' and its connections.
The right cover spring u' is then opened by the cam u and the thread releasing
lever operated by the cam 8 pushes off the thread from the pin q¹
The bight of thread is then pulled right up by the left take-up lever q². Again the
awl retires and the needle follows down and the operations are repeated and so the
operation of sewing proceeds until the needle shuttle thread is too short for further
work or until, as in the operation of sewing round a shoe, the amount of stitching
required has been completed.
Although I have described my invention as applied to one kind of sewing machine,
namely to that commonly known in the shoe trade as the New Goodyear Stitcher-
I wish it to be understood that it is applicable also to other kinds of sewing machines,
more particularly among those used for attaching soles to boots and shoes.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is
First In a sewing machine the use of a shuttle (which I call a needle shuttle)
to carry a thread attached to it, but not contained in it, through the loop of thread
formed by the machine needle so as to produce a lock stitch.
Second-In a sewing machine the use of a shuttle driver furnished with two or

page_text: more points or claws which separately lay hold of the shuttle and which are successively
lifted out of contact with it so as to clear over the loop of thread through which it
is passing and are returned again as soon as the loop is passed.
Third In a sewing machine in which a needlo shuttle is employed to carry a
thread through the loop of thread formed by the machine needle so as to produce
a lock stitch, the use of take up levers to pull up the slack thread from the needle
shuttle as described.
Fourth In a sewing machine in which a needle shuttle is employed to carry a
thread through the loop of thread formed by the machine needle so as to produce a
lock stitch and in which take up levers are used to pull up the slack thread from the
needle shuttle the application of spring covers actuated by the machine to the take
up lever pins to retain or release the thread as required as described.
Fifth In a sewing machine in which a needle shuttle is employed to carry a thread
through the loop of thread formed by the machine needle so as to produce a lock
stitch, and in which take up levers are used to pull up the slack thread from the
needle shuttle, the use of thread releasing levers to cast off the thread from the take
up lever pins, as described.
4
Sixth In a machine in which a needle shuttle is employed to carry a thread through
the loop of thread formed by the machine needle so as to produce a lock stitch, the
use of a take up to draw up at the proper time the loop of thread formed by the
needle and of a locking mechanism to lock the thread so as to prevent any thread
from being drawn except from the loop left by the needle-as described.
Seventh A sewing machine constructed with a needle, a feeding mechanism,
together with a needle shuttle to carry a thread through the loop of thread formed
by the machine needle so as to produce a lock stitch, take up levers to take up the
slack thread from the needle shuttle, spring covers actuated by the machine to retain
and release the thread at proper intervals thread releasing levers to cast off the
thread from the take up pins, a take up to draw up the loop formed by the needle,
and a locking device to lock the thread during the time the loop is being pulled up.
Dated the 29th day of June 1889.
W. H. DORMAN.