IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES FOR HEM-STITCHING HANDKERCHIEFS AND OTHER FABRICS
Year: 1879

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Bristow Hunt, of Serle Street, Lincoln's Inn, in the County
of Middlesex, Gentleman, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING
MACHINES FOR HEM-STITCHING HANDKERCHIEFS AND OTHER FABRICS." A
communication to him from abroad by John Hamilton Brown, of Brooklyn,
New York, in the United States of America, Machinist.
Sealed the 19th March 1880, and dated the 24th September 1879.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Bristow Hunt at the Office
of the Commissioners of Patents on the 24th September 1879.
BRISTOW HUNT, of Serle Street, Lincoln's Inn, in the County of Middlesex,
Gentleman, "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES FOR HEM-STITCHING HAND-
KERCHIEFS AND OTHER FABRICS." (A communication to me from abroad by John
Hamilton Brown, of Brooklyn, New York, in the United States of America,
Machinist.)
There is a variety of hand-made sewing known as hem-stitching, which is of
great utility in securing hems and is justly admired for its ornamental appearance.
The stitches are so taken that the tension of the threads tends to produce orna-
mental openings, which being regularly spaced by the stitching conduces much to
ornament the goods without increasing the cost of the article produced.
In the ordinary mode of producing this stitch by hand it is slowly and laboriously
made while by the use of the improved machine hereinafter described it is pro-
duced with great rapidity and perfection. The improved mechanism comprises a
sewing machine by which two lines of stitches are formed, and in which the fabric
is fed forward two steps and then fed backward one step, thus three steps are taken
to one step of actual progress.
The work is proportionally slower than straight forward sewing, but the threads
are crossed on both faces of the fabric, and all the strength and ornamental effect of
the hem-stitch is obtained with the increased perfection and beauty due to the
invariable regularity of machine work.
The threads are caused to draw with a proper amount of tension, the holes being
enlarged by other special devices so as to produce ornamental openings in the

page_text: fabric without the necessity for drawing out yarns as is the practice in hand work.
The tension is so adjusted and the operation regulated that the ornamental
openings shall when first made be a little larger than they are ultimately to be, the
subsequent drawing of the fabric causing thein to contract and thus be brought into
proper size to produce the best effect.
The improved machine is provided with a fixed bed-plate and overhanging arm
in which the main shaft is journalled and revolved by a pulley, and any common
means of driving the same. These parts, as well as the fly wheel, tension-
regulating device, take-up device, the shuttle, and the means for operating and
guiding it, may be all of the ordinary character.
The needle of any ordinary or suitable character for sewing-machine work is
supported in a needle-bar which is reciprocated up and down by means of a crank
pin carried at the end of the main shaft and working in a cam plate made fast to
the needle bar in the ordinary manner.
י
The lower end of the needle bar passes through a guide at the end of a rod
which is reciprocated to move the needle to the right and left to effect the crossing
of the stitches.
This
This rod extends along under and is partly recessed in the fixed overhanging
arm, and it is formed in two pieces spliced together by screws which being inserted
through holes slightly elongated allow it to be lengthened and shortened as required.
The guide plays in a recess in the head of the overhanging arm and its rod is
guided in a slot in the arm, a spring pressing it inward or in the direction to the
right, the extent of which movement is determined by a set screw which is tapped
through it and bears against a suitable fixed surface as the stem of the arm.
inward position of the rod determines that of the line of stitches which produced
in the single fabric, and a cam which bears against the end of the rod makes but
one revolution to every three stitches at certain times throws this rod and its guide
outward or to the left, and consequently moves the needle-bar and the needle
outward or to the left to produce the other line of stitches, namely, that which is
taken through the hem.
This peculiar movement of the needle and a similar one of the feed is effected by
means of a sleeve which is mounted loosely upon the ordinary upright shaft
which is connected to the main shaft by bevilled gearing, as is usual, and performs
its ordinary functions of driving the shuttle by ordinary means, such as a rock arm
and rod connecting with the shuttle holder which slides in the usual slotted
guideway. This sleeve is driven by means of a back-gear shaft carrying two gear-
wheels, one of which engages with a small gear-wheel fast on the said ordinary
upright shaft, and the other of which gears with a large gear wheel fast on the
sleeve. At each third revolution of the sleeve the cam on it acts on the said rod
and moves its guide outward, thus throwing the needle-bar temporarily into the
position required for it to enter the single fabric, that is, beyond the border or hiem,
and produce the line of stiches therein.
This rotating sleeve induces the required succession of two forward and one
backward feed movements, as follows:-
The feed bar has the compound endwise and vibrating motion common to what
is known as the "Singer" sewing machine. It may be briefly described as sliding
end wise through a rocking guide, and thus by an ordinary incline or wedge surface
at its forward end being made to induce the proper rising and sinking motion of
the ordinary roughened feeder, while it at the same time rocks or oscillates on the
axis of its guide as a centre of motion to induce the proper forward and backward
motion of the feed.
It receives the
But the yoke at its rear end which receives motion is peculiar.
required longitudinal movements to the right and left at each revolution of the
main-shaft by means of a cam fixed on the rapidly revolving ordinary upright
shaft.
This cam works in a transverse slot or opening in the yoke which is considerably
longer than the motion of the cam, so that this cam never touches the yoke except

page_text: on the straight faces at the right and left, and the yoke is always free to be
moved forward and backward or rocked laterally by other means independently of
the said cam.
This lateral movement forward and backward is imparted by the slow turning
sleeve through the medium of a lever which has its slightly rounded projecting end
pressed by a spring or springs into contact with another cam so as to receive a
motion therefrom according to the form thereof, a pin projecting from the said lever
and playing in a guide slot in the yoke of the feed bar acting to impart the move.
ments of the said lever to the yoke and feed-bar.
:
The periphery of the last-mentioned cam is provided with two projecting parts
of unequal extent, and two depressed parts of equal extent.
The projecting parts of the cam are necessarily in contact with the said lever,
and these periods of contact are when the feeder is elevated by the reciprocating
movement of the feed-bar, which is moved with greater rapidity by the action of its
cam, and this lever rests in the depressed parts of its cam at the times when the
feeder is lowered by the proper reciprocation of the feed bar. Thus as one of the
said projecting parts acts to move the said lever outward immediately after the
feed is raised it thereby induces a forward movement of the feeder and conse-
quently of the fabric being sewn.
The succeeding downward movement of the feeder occurs while it is in the
extreme forward position, and the projecting end of the said lever is moving into
the following depression. The result is that the feeder moves rearward while
down. The next projection of the said can then acts on the said lever immediately
after the next rise of the feeder, thus inducing a second forward movement of the
latter and consequently of the fabric.
The position of the feeder and consequently of the goods holds through the next
downward and rising movements of the feeder, for the reason that the said cau
instead of as before presenting a depression to the lever the next and longer
projection of the cam continues to support the lever in its outward position, and
consequently holds the feeder in its extreme forward position until after its next
rise. The feeder on thus rising in its extreme forward position seizes hold of the
goods, whereupon the lever enters the following depression of the can, and instead
of a movement of the feeder in a right direction to feed the goods forward previous
to the next sinking motion of the feeder a contrary or backward movement toward
the operator takes place. When the feeder and the fabric have thus been moved
backward by this movement of the feeder the succeeding sinking of the feeder takes
place, and it rises again to seize the goods in time to be moved forward as the
shorter projection of the said cam again becomes effective upon the lever.
This movement of the feeder is continuously repeated two strokes forward and
one stroke backward, and the movement of the first mentioned guide and conse-
quently of the needle to the right and left being properly timed the effective results
of the combined movements of these devices are as follows:-
First. The first forward movement of the feeder takes place, and the work is
moved from the operator (one step forward), and a movement of the needle outward
or to the left takes place simultaneously. This makes one oblique backward stitch
across from the single fabric to the hem.
Second. The second forward movement of the feeder takes place and the work
is moved from the operator (a second step forward), and a movement of the needle
inward or to the right takes place simultaneously. The result is an oblique back-
ward stitch across from the hem to the single fabric.
>
Third. A rearward movement of the feeder (while raised) takes place, and the
work is moved toward the operator (one step backward), and there is no change of
line of the needle. This makes a stitch directly forward entirely on the single
fabric.
Two lines of punctures are thus made by the needle, one line on the single fabric
close to the inner or turned in edge of the hem, and the other on the hem, and á

page_text: crossing of the threads is induced by a change of position of the lower end of the
needle-bar as the several stitches are successively taken.
This series is continuously repeated.
The mechanisms thus far described may be used with success, and the threads if
drawn in the fabric with a proper tension will strain open the punctures made in
the thin fabric by the needle so as to produce the desired effect to a considerable
degree.
But it is preferable to employ some additional parts now to be described, which
puncture the thin fabric in advance of the needle and open the holes to a proper
extent to produce the best results.
A slide is mounted alongside the needle-bar and caused to partake of its vertical
reciprocations by means of a pin set in the needle-bar and engaging in a transverse
slot in the slide. This slide is capable only of vertical movements, and does not
partake of the motion of the needle to the right and left. A detachable piece
attached to the lower end of the slide reaches partially under the needle-bar and
supports a series of needles or pointed punches which puncture the fabric at the
proper points in advance of the needle. The first punch is slender and may be
somewhat shorter than the intermediate one, while the third is the largest and may
be somewhat the longest. The first pricks a small hole in the fabric, which hole is
enlarged by the action of the second punch, and the hole is still further enlarged
by the action of the third punch. This triplicate action of the punches is somewhat
complexed by the fact that each third feed movement has a backward movement of
the goods, but the feed movements forward and backward being all to an equal
extent the general result is not disturbed. This general result is the puncturing of
a hole considerably larger than is required for the sewing needle, but just what is
required to allow for the partial contraction of the hole which results from enlarging
it after the threads have been put in with the proper tension. It will be under-
stood that the sewing needle travels through a large opening made by the punches,
and that the threads are engaged together and the entire formation of the stitch
proceeds the same as if there had been no punching, except that there is no con-
siderable tension required on the threads to draw open the fabric because the fabric
has been already opened by the positive and uniform action of the punches.
The necessity for having the punches the same distance apart as the extent of
each feed movement interferes with the facility for changing the feed at will. Care
must be taken to correspondingly change the distances of the punches from each
other whenever any change in the feed is made. In working, the inventor proposes
to have a series of adjustable detachable pieces, each having punches differently
arranged so that by changing these feed pieces to correspond with the feed one can
readily equip the machine for any length of stitch required. The movement of the
needle to the right and left obviously involves the necessity for a hole in the
presser foot and in the cloth plate or its equivalent which is correspondingly
elongated in the proper direction. The use of the punches involves the necessity
for making corresponding holes in the presser foot and in the cloth plate or surface
which corresponds thereto. In practice the inventor has found it desirable to make
the presser-foot with a long continuous opening in the direction of the feed of the
goods. This allows the same presser-foot to serve with all the positions of the
punches which may be required, but he has provided a removable piece in place of
the movable cloth-plate, and has provided it with holes corresponding to the
position of the needles. This piece of course requires to be changed with each
change of the positions of the punches.
The number of the pointed punches or cloth openers may be increased or
diminished.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said Bristow Hunt in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 24th March
1880.
BRISTOW HUNT, of Serle Street, Lincoln's Inn, in the County of Middlesex,.
Gentleman. +6 IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES FOR HEM STITCHING HAND-
KERCHIEFS AND OTHER FABRICS." (A communication to me from abroad by John
Hamilton Brown, of Brooklyn, New York, in the United States of America,
Machinist.)
There is a variety of hand-made sewing known as hem-stitching, which is of
great utility in securing hems and is justly admired for its ornamental appearance.:
The stitches are so taken that the tension of the threads tends to produce orna-
mental openings which being regularly spaced by the stitching conduce much to
ornament the goods without increasing the cost of the article produced.
In the ordinary mode of producing this stitch by hand it is slowly and laboriously
made, while by the use of the improved machine hereinafter described it is produced
with great rapidity and perfection.
The improved mechanism comprises a sewing machine by which two lines of
stitches are formed and in which the fabric is fed forward two steps and then fed
backward one step, thus three steps are taken to one step of actual progress.
The work is proportionally slower than straight forward sewing, but the threads
are crossed on both faces of the fabric and all the strength and ornamental effect of
the hem-stitch is obtained with the increased perfection and beauty due to the
invariable regularity of machine work.
The threads are caused to draw with a proper amount of tension, the holes being
enlarged by other special devices so as to produce ornamental openings in the fabric
without the necessity for drawing out yarns as is the practice in hand work.
:
The tension is so adjusted and the operation regulated that the ornamental
openings shall when first made be a little larger than they are ultimately to be,
the subsequent drawing of the fabric causing them to contract and thus be brought
into proper size to produce the best effect.
The improved machine is illustrated on the accompanying Sheet of Drawings,
in which Figure 1 represents a general side elevation of the machine; Figure 2
represents a front elevation, showing the presser foot, needle bar, and certain
accompanying parts; Figure 3 represents a longitudinal sectional elevation showing
particularly the parts which shift the position of the needle bar laterally at certain
times, and the mechanism which gives the peculiar feed motion; Figure 4 represents
a bottom plan view showing particularly the parts which actuate the feed; Figure 5
illustrates the cam which induces the required lateral movement of the needle to
the right and left; Figure 6 is an enlarged view representing the cam which imparts
to the feed the required two motions forward and one motion backward; Figure 7
represents by a sectional elevation the mechanisms for imparting to the feed and
needle their respective to-and-fro movements; Figure 8 represents a fabric, and shews
particularly the peculiar stitches as produced; Figure 9 is a transverse sectional
view of the fabric being operated upon, shewing particularly the lateral movement
of the needle. Similar letters of reference indicate like parts in all the Figures.
The improved machine is provided with a fixed bed-plate 20 and overhanging
arm 21, in which the main shaft 22 is journalled and revolved by a pulley 23 and
any common means of driving the same. These parts as well as the fly-wheel 24
tension regulating device, take up device, the shuttle and the means for operating
and guiding it, may be all of the ordinary character.
The needle 9 of any ordinary or suitable character for sewing machine work
is supported in a needle-bar 10 which is reciprocated up and down by means of a
crank pin 11 carried at the end of the main shaft 22 and working in a cam plate 12
made fast to the needle bar 10 in the ordinary manner.

page_text: The lower end of the needle-bar passes through a guide 26 at the end of a rod 27
which is reciprocated to move the needle to the right and left to effect the crossing
of the stitches.
The rod 27 extends along under and is partly recessed in the fixed overhanging
arm 21, and it is formed in two pieces spliced together by screws 28, which being
inserted through holes slightly elongated, allow it to be lengthened and shortened
as required. The guide 26 plays in a recess in the head 29 of the overhanging arm
and its rod 27 is guided in a slot in the arm 21, a spring 30 pressing it inward (or
in the direction to the right), the extent of which movement is determined by a set
screw 31 which is tapped through it and bears against a suitable fixed surface as
the stem of the arm 21. This inward position of the rod 27 determines that of the
line of stitches which is produced in the single fabric, and a cam 8 which bears
against the end of the rod 27 and makes but one revolution to every three stitches
at certain times throws this rod and its guide 26 outward (or to the left) and
consequently moves the needle-bar 10 and the needle 9 outward (or to the left) to
produce the other line of stitches, namely, that which is taken through the hem.
This peculiar movement of the needle, and a similar one of the feed is effected by
means of a sleeve 32 which is mounted loosely upon the ordinary upright shaft 6,
which is connected to the main shaft 22 by bevilled gearing 13, 14, as is usual,
and performs its ordinary functions of driving the shuttle by ordinary means, such
as a rock arm 33 and rod 34 connecting with the shuttle holder 35, which slides in
the usual slotted guide-way 36. This sleeve 32 is driven by means of a back gear
shaft 1 carrying two gear wheels 18, 19, the former of which engages with a small
gear wheel 17 fast on the shaft 6, and the latter of which gears with a large gear
wheel 16 fast on the sleeve 32. At each third revolution of the sleeve 32 the cam 8
acts on the rod 27 and moves its guide 26 outward, thus throwing the needle bar
temporarily into the position required for it to enter the single fabric, that is, beyond
the border or hem, and produce the line of stitches therein.
This rotating sleeve 32 induces the required succession of two forward and one
backward feed movements as follows:-
The feed-bar 37 has the compound endwise, and vibrating motion common to
what is known as the " Singer" sewing machine. It may be briefly described as
sliding end wise through a rocking guide 38, and thus by an ordinary incline or
wedge surface at its forward end heing made to induce the proper rising and sinking
motion of the ordinary roughened feeder 39 while it at the same time rocks or
oscillates on the axis of its guide 38 as a centre of motion to induce the proper
forward and backward motion of the feed.
But the yoke at its rear end which receives motion is peculiar. It receives the
required longitudinal movement to the right and left at each revolution of the
main shaft by means of a cam 2 fixed on the rapidly revolving shaft 6.
This cam works in a transverse slot or opening in the yoke which is considerably
longer than the motion of the cam so that this cam never touches the yoke except
on the straight faces at the right and left, and the yoke is always free to be moved
forward and backward or rocked laterally by other means independently of the
cam 2.
This lateral movement forward and backward is imparted by the slow turning
sleeve 32 through the medium of a lever 40 which is pivoted at 41, and has its
slightly rounded projecting end 4 pressed by a spring or springs as 42 into contact
with a cam 3 so as to receive a motion therefrom according to the form thereof, a
pin 13 projecting from the said lever 40 and playing in a guide slot 14 in the yoke
of the feed bar 37 acting to impart the movements of the said lever to the yoke
and feed-bar.
The form of the cam 3 is shown in Figure 6. Its periphery is represented as pro-
vided with two projecting parts of unequal extent and two depressed parts of equal
extent.
The projecting parts of the cam are necessarily in contact with the lever 40, and
these periods of contact are. when the feeder 39 is elevated by the reciprocating

page_text: movement of the feed bar 37, which is moved with greater rapidity by the action
of its cam, and this lever rests in the depressed parts of its cam at the times when
the feeder 39 is lowered by the proper reciprocation of the feed-bar 37. Thus as
the projecting part 42 acts to move the lever outward immediately after the feed
is raised, it thereby induces a forward movement of the feeder 39, and consequently
of the fabric being sewn.
The succeeding downward movement of the feeder 39 occurs while it is in the
extreme forward position, and the projecting end 4 of the lever 40 is moving into
the depression 44. The result is that the feeder 39 moves rearward while down.
The next projection 43 of the cam 3 then acts on the lever 40 immediately after
the next rise of the feeder 39, thus inducing a second forward movement of the
latter, and consequently of the fabric.
The position of the feeder and consequently of the goods holds through the next
downward and rising movements of the feeder, for the reason that the cam 3
instead of as before presenting a depression to the lever 40, the next and longer
projection 43 of the cam continues to support the lever 40 in its outward position,
and consequently holds the feeder 39 in its extreme forward position until after its
next rise. The feeder 39 on thus rising in its extreme forward position seizes hold
of the goods, whereupon the lever 40 enters the following depression 45 of the cam,
and instead of a movement of the feeder in a right direction to feed the goods
forward previous to the next sinking motion of the feeder, a contrary or backward
movement toward the operator takes place. When the feeder and the fabric have
thus been moved backward by this movement of the feeder, the succeeding sinking
of the feeder takes place, and it rises again to seize the goods in time to be moved
forward as the shorter projection 12 again becomes effective upon the lever 40.
This movement of the feeder is continuously repeated two strokes forward, and
one stroke backward, and the movement of the guide 26 and consequently of the
needle to the right and left being properly timed, the effective results of the
combined movement of these devices are as follows:-
First. The first forward movement of the feeder 39 takes place, and the work is
moved from the operator (one step forward), and a movement of the needle outward
or to the left takes place simultaneously. This makes one oblique backward
stitch 50 across from the single fabric to the hem.
Second. The second forward movement of the feeder 39 takes place and the
work is moved from the operator (a second step forward), and a movement of the
needle inward or to the right takes place simultaneously. The result is an oblique
backward stitch 51 across from the hem to the single fabric.
Third. A rearward movement of the feeder 39 (while raised) takes place, and
the work is moved toward the operator (one step backward), and there is no change
of line of the needle. This makes a stitch 52 directly forward entirely on the
single fabric.
Two lines of punctures are thus made by the needle, one line on the single fabric,
close to the inner or turned in edge of the hem, and the other on the hem, and a
crossing of the threads is induced by a change of position of the lower end of the
needle-bar, as the several stitches are successively taken.
This series is continuously repeated.
The mechanism thus far described may be used with success, and the threads if
drawn in the fabric with a proper tension will strain open the punctures made in
the thin fabric by the needle so as to produce the desired effect to a considerable
degree.
But it is preferable to employ some additional parts now to be described which
puncture the single fabric in advance of the needle, and open the holes to a proper
extent to produce the best results.
A slide 46 is mounted alongside of the needle-bar 10, and caused to partake of
its vertical reciprocations by means of a pin 47, which is set in the needle-bar, and
engages in a transverse slot in the slide (see Figure 2). This slide 46 is capable only

page_text: of vertical movements, and does not partake of the motion of the needle to the
right and left. A detachable piece 48 attached to the lower end of the slide 46
reaches partially under the needle bar and supports a series of needles or pointed
punches 5, which puncture the fabric at the proper points in advance of the needle.
The first punch is slender and may be somewhat shorter than the intermediate one,
while the third is the largest, and may be somewhat the longest. The first pricks
a small hole in the fabric, which hole is enlarged by the action of the second
punch, and the hole is still further enlarged by the action of the third punch.
This triplicate action of the punches is somewhat complexed by the fact that each
third feed movement has a backward movement of the goods, but the feed move-
ments forward and backward being all to an equal extent the general result is not
disturbed. This general result is the puncturing of a hole considerably larger than
is required for the sewing needle 9, but just what is required to allow for the
partial contraction of the hole, which results from enlarging it after the threads
have been put in with the proper tension. It will be understood that the sewing
needle 9 travels through a large opening made by the punches 5, and that the
threads are engaged together, and the entire formation of the stitch proceeds the
same as if there had been no punching, except that there is no considerable tension
required on the threads to draw open the fabric because the fabric has been already
opened by the positive and uniform action of the punches 5.
The necessity for having the punches 5 the same distance apart as the extent of
each feed movement interferes with the facility for changing the feed at will.
Care must be taken to correspondingly change the distances of the punches 5 from
each other whenever any change in the feed is made. In working, the inventor
proposes to have a series of adjustable detachable pieces 48, each having punches 5
differently arranged, so that by changing these feed-pieces to correspond with the
feed one can readily equip the machine for any length of stitch required.
The movement of the needle to the right and left obviously involves the
necessity for a hole in the presser foot, and in the cloth plate or its equivalent,
which is correspondingly elongated in the proper direction.
The use of the punches 5 involves the necessity for making corresponding holes
in the pressure foot, and in the cloth plate or surface which corresponds thereto.
In practice the inventor has found it desirable to make the presser-foot with a
long continuous opening in the direction of the feed of the goods. This allows the
same presser-foot to serve with all the positions of the punches which may be
required, but he has provided a removable piece 50 in place of the movable cloth-
plate, and has provided it with holes corresponding to the position of the needles.
This piece 50 of course requires to be changed with each change of the positions of
the punches 5.
The number of the pointed punches or cloth openers 5 may be increased or
diminished.
Having now described the nature and object of the said Invention together with
the manner in which the same is to be or may be performed or carried into
practical effect, I would remark in conclusion that I claim as the Invention com-
municated to me by the said John Hamilton Brown,―
First. The machine-made hem herein described consisting of a thread crossed
obliquely from the body of the fabric over the edge of the hem, and extended in
a straight line on the body of the fabric, whereby a regular succession of orna-
mental holes is formed in the body of the fabric, substantially as hereinbefore
described, and as illustrated on the accompanying Sheet of Drawings.
Second. A sewing machine having a feed movement operating to move the fabric
two steps forward, and one back alternately, as herein before specified.
Third. A sewing machine having the needle-bar automatically thrown alternately
to the right and left at intervals, as and for the purposes hereinbefore specified.
Fourth. The peculiar combination with the mechanisms for vertically recipro-
cating the needle, and for inducing the four ordinary movements of the feeder 39

page_text: of the shaft 6, lever 32, and gearing connecting the shaft and lever, which operate
to impart to the latter a relatively slow movement of devices for inducing variations
in the motion of the needle and feed at regular intervals, as herein before specified.
Fifth. In a sewing machine mechanism for shifting the needle bar alternately to
the right and left at intervals, in combination with a feed mechanism feeding
forward and backward at corresponding intervals, so as to reduce the succession of
oblique and straight stitches 50, 51, 52, as hereinbefore specified.
Sixth. The peculiar combination with the sewing mechanism of the punches 5
operating to enlarge the ornamental holes, as herein before specified.
Seventh. The combination with the shifting neeedle-bar, and shifting feed acting
in harmony of the punches 5 adapted to produce the ornamental boles, substantially
as hereinbefore specified.
And, Eighth. The combination with the adjustable guide-rod 27 of the screw
stop 31, cam 1, and needle-bar 10, substantially as hereinbefore described, and as
illustrated on the annexed Drawings.
In witness whereof, I, the said Bristow Hunt, have hereunto set my hand
and seal, this Twenty-fourth day of March, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and eighty.
.
BRISTOW HUNT. (L.S.)