Attachments for Sewing Machines for Pleating one or more Plys of Material and simultaneously Sewing the same for Hat Linings and other Fabrics.
Year: 1886

page_text: Date of Application, 17th Aug., 1886.
Complete Left, 17th May, 1887.
Complete Accepted, 17th June, 1887.
| Attachments for Sewing Machines for Pleating one or more Plys of
Material and simultaneously Sewing the same for Hat Linings
and other Fabrics.
We FRANCIS CREE Junr. of 1 Vernon Street, Hyde, Cheshire, Machinist, and
LEWIS FAIRBURN MARSH of 33 Victoria Street, Bristol, Hat Manufacturer, do hereby
declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to attachments for sewing Machines for pleating one or more
plys of material, and simultaneously sewing the same for Hat Linings and other
fabrics.
The object being to pucker up, or "kilt" a plain, or fancy fabric at the edge only,
and sew, or stitch it down upon a backing, or stiffner, which may be a single ply of
fabric, or a compound fabric, such as silk upon buckram, paper, cardboard, pasteboard,
or the like, or two, or more fabrics of the same, or different colours, or textures, may
simultaneously be puckered, or "kilted," each one being led to the needle in distinct
lines and either by themselves, or in conjunction with, braid, tape, or ribbon
for ornamenting the linings of hats, caps, and articles of wear and fabrics
generally.
The attachments are applicable to almost every kind of sewing Machine, and part
of the attachments are fastened to the head, and part to the work plate, the puckering
or "kilting" blade, or appliance which is springy, being swivelled, or centred upon
the back plate, and operated by a cam, or by one, or more studs on a wheel, in gear
with the main spindle, the degree of throw of the "kilter" being regulated by a screw
pin and returnable by a spring. When ornamenting a hat lining, or the like with a
stiff backing, we fit a "tipper" to a sliding plate over the shuttle race to determine
the distance of the sewing from the edge.

page_text: The "kilter" blado has a hole in the feeding portion of it, in which a spring paul
acts, and yields, to the pressure of the material. One of the appliances on the work
plute is a simple blade of springy steel under which the stiffner passes, and is fed to
the needle, and another appliance thereon is a folded piece of metal, as a guide to lead
the silk, or other fabric on to the stiffner.
The appliance on the head of the machine is a three bladed guide for the additional
plys of fabric, tape, braid, or the like.

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Attachments for Sewing Machines for Pleating one or more Plys of
Material and simultaneously Sewing the same for Hat Linings
and other Fabrics.
We FRANCIS CREE Junr. of 1 Vernon Street, Hyde, Cheshire, Machinist, and
LEWIS FAIRBURN MARSH of 33 Victoria Street, Bristol, Hat Manufacturer,
do hereby declare the nature of our said invention and in what manner
the same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement :-
This invention relates to attachments for sewing machines for pleating one or more
plys of material and simultaneously sewing the same for Hat linings and other fabrics,
the object being to pucker up or "kilt" a plain or fancy fabric at the edge only and
sew or stitch it down upon a backing or stiffener, which may be a single ply of fabric
or a compound fabric such as silk upon buckram, paper, cardboard, pasteboard or the
like, or two or more fabrics of the same or of different colours or texture may
simultaneously be puckered or "kilted" oach one being led to the needle in
distinct lines and either by themselves or in conjunction with braid, tape or ribbon
for ornamenting the linings of Hats, Caps and other articles of wear and fabrics
generally.
The attachments for carrying out the invention are clearly represented by the
annexed drawings and are applicable to almost every kind of sewing machine
and part of the attachments are fastened to the head and part to the work
plate.
Figures 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 shows the puckering or kilting blade a and moving
appliances b, which blade a has a springy action being swivelled!or centred at c upon
the back plated and operated by a cam or by one or more studs e on a wheel fin
gear with the wheel 9 on the main spindle h, which stud or studs e acts upon the
upright. The degree of throw of the kilter blade a is regulated by a screw pin i
and returnable by a spring j.
Figures 6 and 7 are plan and perspective elevation respectively of a machine with
the appliances attached.
When ornamenting a hat lining or the like, with a stiff backing we fit a "tipper" k
to the sliding plates 1, 1, over the shuttle race to determine the distance of
sewing from the edge, this will be clearly understood by reference to Figure 8.
The kilter blade a has a hole m shown in Figure 5 in the feeding portion n of it, in
which a spring roughened or toothed paul pacts and yields to the pressure of the
material.
Figures 9 and 10 show one of the appliances on the work plate d which is a simple
blade q of springy steel, under which the stiffener passes and is fed to the needle ŕ of
the sewing machine, and another appliance thereon is a folded piece of metal (shown
in plan, longitudinal and side elevation at Figures 11, 12 and 13) as a guide s to lead
the silk or other fabric on to the stiffener.

page_text: The appliance on the head of the machine is a guide having two or three
blades u, v, w, attachable to the head t by the slotted end for the additional plys of
fabric, tape, braid or the like.
Figure 15 shows the mode in which the wheel factuntes the kilter a. Every time
the stud e moves round in the direction of the arrow it moves the upright into
the position shown in dotted lines thus causing the killer to move forward to form
one ply or pleat said kilter a being returned to its normal position by the
spring j. The kilter has a slot in one end through which a screw pin = passes
to secure it to the moving lever b so that it can be lengthened or shortened if
desired.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what we
claim is :-
The several appliances as attachments to sewing machines as hereinbefore
described for pleating or kilting one or more plys of material for Hat linings
and other fabrics the appliances being arranged substantially as shown on the annexed
drawings.