A New or Improved Pile Fabric.
Year: 1891

page_text: Date of Application, 16th Feb., 1891
Complete Specification Left 4th Nov., 1891-Accepted, 16th Feb., 1802
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
A New or Improved Pile Fabric.
We PETRUS TABARD, FRÉDÉRIC CECILLON and PIERRE CHAPUT of the
firm of Tabarl, Cecillon and Chaput of 16 Rue de l'Arbresec, Lyons, in the
Republic of France, Silk Merchants do hereby declare the nature of this invention
to be as follows:-
The invention consists of a new or improved fabric which we have termed
"Sphynx" and which possesses a velvet facing (Amiens tram velvet) with a satin
reverse either plain or figured.
The fabric is made with the usual loom mechanism in the following manner.
Two silk chains are warped one for the velvet and one for the satin. These are
passed over two rollers and connected with two sets of harness, one consisting for
instance of eight leaves for the sacin, and the other of for instance six leaves for the
velvet. These are drafted or grouped with reference to the reed dents as follows;
six warps to each dent, one on a satin leaf, one on a velvet leaf, two on two satin
leaves, one on a velvet leaf and one on a satin leaf.
The drawing is then recommenced to the end of 36 warps or six dents when a
cotton end is shot in.
The accompanying drawing illustrates two drafts.
The tram velvet draft, consisting of four groups of which one is of linen and the
other three raised serving to form the velvet facing, the satin warp is connected
only to the linen group to permit the return and facilitate the cutting.
Any other draft or cording of figured silk may be combined in the same manner
with the known drafts employed for tram velvet.
The fabric may be manufactured in any machine moved by hand or power for
broad stuff or ribbons. After the weaving the fabric is submitted to the usual
after processes undergone by the tram velvet known as "Amiens."
Dated this 16th day of February 1891.
HERBERT & Co.,
Agents to Applicants.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
A New or Improved Pile Fabric.
We, PETRUS TABARD, FRÉDÉRIC CECILLON and PIERRE CHAPUT of the
firm of Tabard, Cecillon & Chaput, of 16 Rue de l'Arbresec, Lyons, France,
Silk Merchants, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner
the same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement:-
66
This invention consists in a new or improved fabric which we have termed
Sphynx" and which essentially consists of a fabric having a velvet facing on the
one side and silk satin facing on the other. The fabric may be either plain or
figured and is usually and preferably made so far as the velvet facing and foundation
is concerned in the same manner as the so called Amiens velvet being a velvet with
silk warp pile and mixed cotton. and silk foundation. The invention is however
applicable to other makes of velvet or velveteen.
The fabric is made with the usual weaving mechanism and is in effect a com-
bination of satin and velvet on the same foundation made by warping two silk chains
one for the velvet and the other for the satin and connecting the healds by the
cording (which connects them to the treadles) in such a manner that the satin chain
Price Bl

page_text: is passed under the weft so that the weft lies above the chain on the satin side at
the same time that the velvet chain is depressed, or not raised on the velvet side.
When the raised pile of the velvet is cut the satin warp therefore does not
suffer.
The accompanying drawing shows two schemes from which drafts may be made,
each being for a velvet of six leaves and a satin of eight leaves. Figs. 1 and 2.
The vertical lines represent the warp, the horizontal lines represent the successive
shoots of weft. The crosses on the lines represent those warps which at the
passage of the respective shoot of weft are raised, (the velvet being on the upper
side). The velvet will be seen to consist of three foundation stitches where the
warp is raised only for the passage of weft under it, these being all on the same
shoot of weft, and of three pile stitches where the warp is raised over three con-
secutive wefts and over wires to form the pile. In Fig. 1 the warps of the chain
are alternately for foundation and pile, while in Fig. 2 the warps are each drawn
to form pile at one stitch and foundation at the next. These drafts are those of
the usual Amiens velvet and the cording by which the healds are connected to the
treadles being well understood for such velvet, and deducible from the drawings
needs no further explanation.
As the satin chain of eight leaves, which is also the usual draft of eight leaves,
here shown is so combined with the velvet draft that the lifted warps of the satin
coincide with the foundation raised warps of the velvet, the velvet draft will be
repeated four times for each repetition of the satin draft as will be seen on reference
to the drawings.
The two silk chains are separately warped on two sets of harness and are wound
on separate rollers and they are suitably combined or alternated with each other.
Thus for a velvet of six leaves and a satin of eight leaves they may be drafted or
grouped with reference to the reed dents as follows, six warps to each dent, riz. one
on a satin leaf, one on a velvet leaf, two on two satin leaves, one on a velvet leaf and
one on a satin leaf. This drawing is then repeated until 36 warps are drafted, on
.six dents, when a cotton end is warped for the body of the foundation.
It will be seen from the drawing where for clearness the velvet warp is placed
distinct from the satin warp, that is to say the warps (vertical lines) are there
arranged according to the order of the leaves and not in their numerical successive
order; that the satin warp lifted only when the velvet warp forms the foundation
stitches; is not cut when the remaining stitches of the velvet over the other wefts,
which stitches are raised by the wires to a higher level, are cut to form the pile.
Thus the satin chain is left intact and exhibits the usual surface of satin on the
under side of the fabric while the upper side of the fabric is of the usual surface
of velvet.
Any other draft or cording of figured silk or satin may be combined in the same
manner with a velvet draft in which certain of the raised warps form foundation
stitches not intended to be cut.
The fabric may be manufactured on a machine moved by hand or power for
broad stuff or ribbons. After the weaving the fabric is submitted to the usual after
processes undergone by the velvet known as Amiens.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we
claim is ;-
The fabric herein described having a velvet facing and a figured or plain satin
reverse.
Dated this Ath
th day of Noromhor 1901
HERBERT & Co.,
18, Buckingham Street, Strand, London, W.C., Agents to Applicants.
HERBERT & Co.,
18, Buckingham Street, Strand, London, W.C., Agents to Applicants.