IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS, EMPLOYED IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BONNET AND CAP FRONTS, ROUCHES, AND MILLINERY, OR OTHER TRIMMINGS, AND IN THE MANUFACTURE AND PRODUCTION OF THE SAME
Year: 1864

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Charles Grey Hill, of Commerce Square, High
Pavement, in the Town and County of the Town of Nottingham, Lace
Manufacturer, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR
APPARATUS, EMPLOYED IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BONNET AND CAP FRONTS,
ROUCHES, AND MILLINERY, OR OTHER TRIMMINGS, AND IN THE MANUFACTURE
AND PRODUCTION OF THE SAME."
Sealed the 16th June 1865, and dated the 21st December 1864.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Charles Grey Hill at
the Office of the [Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
21st December 1864.
I, CHARLES GREY HILL, of Commerce Square, High Pavement, in the
Town and County of the Town of Nottingham, Lace Manufacturer, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY
OR APPARATUS EMPLOYED IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BONNET AND CAP FRONTS,
ROUCHES, AND MILLINERY, OR OTHER TRIMMINGS, AND IN THE MANUFACTURE AND
PRODUCTION OF THE SAME," to be as follows:-
My first improvement consists in the employment of goffering chains having
the wires, plates, or other pattern-forming portions thereof set in a vertical
position pointed towards a drum or cylinder, which receives the goffered
material upon the edges of a lace, quilling, or other fabric passing over the

page_text: circumference of the said drum or cylinder; the goffered material and the
lace quilling (or other fabric) are then passed under two or more pressing
wheels running upon the circumference of the said drum or cylinder, by
which means the material having received a form or been made into a
pattern by the goffering chains, is pressed upon and thus caused to adhere to
the edges of the said lace, quilling, or other fabric; one (or more) of the
pressing wheels above mentioned is placed under the goffering chains and
above the said drum or cylinder; or instead of having the pressing wheels
under the goffering chains, I cut away a portion of the wires or plates or
other pattern-forming parts of such chains, so that a thread may lie by the
side of them without being goffered; such thread lying upon the goffered
material will hold down and lead away such material to the pressing wheels,
to be pressed upon the edges of the lace, quilling, or other fabric, which is first
moistened with gelatine, or its equivalent. The chains, pressing wheels, and
drum or cylinder are so arranged in respect to each other that they can be
geared together to move at the same speed.
Secondly, I employ goffering chains in pairs placed upon axles projecting
from the sides of standards which move upon or in grooves, so that the chains
may be drawn away while the materials are pressed by a making-up machine,
which has one of its pressing bars above and the other pressing bar below the
material; these pressing bars are straight or shaped as required. Through
the sides of the chains I pass guides somewhat longer than the pattern-
forming parts of the goffering chains in such manner that the guides will hold
the goffered materials when the chains have been drawn out or nearly so
from the goffered material, so as to enable the making-up machine to press
the materials together; the links or arms of these chains are or may be of
divers lengths, so as to goffer the material in plaits of various sizes. Besides
the above guides I also employ guides with loose ends; these guides I insert
at either end of the goffering chains on each side of the material after it is
goffered to hold the material in position until pressed, either by pressing bars
forming part of the machine, or in a separate pressing machine. I likewise
sometimes employ guides formed of rods or bars having needles inserted in
them of the required length, in order to pass in the goffered material to hold
it in position until pressed in either of the above presses.
Thirdly, I employ a pair of open-ended heated pressing rollers grooved
upon their circumference in such manner that a wire supplied to them will
be enclosed by such grooves, and near to each pair of grooves I apply a
guide which will fold a binding or other material supplied; to it in such
manner that the wire will be enclosed in the fold thereof at the same time as

page_text: the pressed edge of a front, rouche, millinery trimming, or part thereof which
is passed into the fold of the binding or other material, so that the whole is
pressed by the above-named heated pressing rollers to form a band.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Charles Grey Hill in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
21st June 1865.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, CHARLES
GREY HILL, of Commerce Square, High Pavement, in the Town and County
of the Town of Nottingham, Lace Manufacturer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-first day of December, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and,sixty-four, in the twenty-eighth year of
Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me,
the said Charles Grey Hill, Her special licence that I, the said Charles Grey
Hill, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the
said Charles Grey Hill, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should
at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times
thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make,
use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and
Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS EMPLOYED IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BONNET
AND CAP FRONTS, ROUCHES, AND MILLINERY, OR OTHER TRIMMINGS, AND IN THE
MANUFACTURE AND PRODUCTION OF THE SAME," upon the condition (amongst
others) that I, the said Charles Grey Hill, my executors or administrators, by
an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals,
should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention,
and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be
filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and
immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
"
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Charles Grey Hill, do hereby declare
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement thereof, reference being had to the accompanying Drawings that
is to say:
My first improvement consists in the employment of goffering chains having
the wire plates or other pattern-forming portions thereof set in a vertical

page_text: .position pointed towards a drum or cylinder which receives the goffered
material upon the edges of a lace, quilling, or other fabric passing over the
circumference of the said drum or cylinder; the goffered material and the lace,
quilling, or other fabric are then passed under two or more pressing wheels
running upon the circumference of the said drum or cylinder, by which means
the material having received a form, or been made into a pattern by the
goffering chains, is pressed upon, and thus caused to adhere to the edges of
the said lace, quilling, or other fabric; one or more of the pressing wheels
.above mentioned is or are placed under the goffering chains and above the
-drum or cylinder; or instead of having the pressing wheels under the goffering
chains, I cut away a portion of the wires or plates, or other pattern-forming
parts of such chains, so that a thread may lie by the side of them without
-being.goffered, such thread lying upon the goffered material will hold down
and lead away such material to the pressing wheels to be pressed upon the
edges of the lace, quilling, or other fabric, which is first moistened with
gelatine or its equivalent. The chains, pressing wheels, and drum or cylinder
.are so arranged in respect to each other that they can be geared together to
move at the same speed.
Secondly, I employ goffering chains in pairs placed upon axles projecting
from the sides of standards which move upon or in grooves, so that the chains
may be drawn away while the materials are pressed by a making-up machine,
which has one of its pressing bars above, and the other pressing bar below
the material; these pressing bars are straight or otherwise shaped, as required.
Through the sides of the chains I pass guides, somewhat longer than the
pattern-forming parts of the goffering chains, in such manner that the guides
will hold the goffered materials when the goffering chains have been drawn
out or drawn nearly out from the goffered material, so as to enable the
making-up machine to press the materials together. The links or arms of
these chains may be of divers lengths, so. as to goffer the material in plaits of
various sizes. Besides the above guides I also employ guides with loose
ends; these guides I insert at either end of the goffering chains on each side
of the material after it is goffered, in order to hold the material in position,
until pressed either by pressing bars forming part of the machine, or in a
separate pressing machine. I likewise sometimes employ guides formed of
rods or bars having needles inserted in them of the required length, in order
to pass in the goffered material, and to hold it in position until pressed in
either of the above presses.
Thirdly, I employ a pair of open-ended heated pressing rollers grooved upon
their circumference in such manner that a wire supplied to them will be

page_text: edge of a bonnet front, rouch, or millinery or other trimming which is passed
into the fold of the binding or other material; so that the whole is pressed by.
the above-named heated pressing rollers to form a band.
Having thus set forth the nature of my Invention, I proceed more fully to.
describe the manner of performing the same with.reference to the accompanying,
Drawings..
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS:.
The apparatus constructed according to my first improvement is represented'
at Figures 1 and 2, Figure 1 being a front view, and Figure 2 a side view,.
of the machine constructed according to my Invention, with part of the.
standards and a gas burner broken away to shew more fully the other parts
of the machine.
A, A, are two standards connected near their lower ends by tie rods, and
near their upper ends by a tie bar B; these standards form bearings for parts
hereafter referred to, and through thein is passed a shaft C, upon which is
secured a drum C¹ on the shaft C; near each end of the same are secured
toothed wheels C³, which gear into toothed wheels C on the lower ends of
short vertical shafts, which turn in bearings C³ fixed to each standard, and
also in bearings formed by the tie bars B. The upper ends of the vertical
shafts have each a large toothed wheel C³ secured thereon; each such wheel-C³
gears into a smaller wheel D, which gears into a similar wheel D¹. These
wheels D and D' are secured upon the vertical axles D³ of goffering chains
passed round other vertical axles D³; the axles D and D³ are adjustable-
in the direction of the length of the chains upon or in bars D* secured to:
the tie bar B, which is slotted to enable the bars D* to be adjustable at
a greater or less distance from each other, as required. In Figure 1 the
axles D are shown closer to each other than the axles D³, to enable
the wires, plates, or other pattern-forming portions of the chains to overlap.
each other at the ends of the chains on the axles D³, and to recede from-
each other at the end of the chains on the axles D³. The inner chains.
have wires or other pattern-forming portions E, and the outer chains
have plates or other pattern-forming portions F, which together combine to
form the material G into the required pattern; such material is received upon
the edges of a lace, quilling, or other fabric I passed over portion of the cir-.
cumference of the drum or cylinder C¹ the goffered material and the lace,.

page_text: quilling (or other fabric), are then passed under the pressing wheels K
running upon the circumference of the said cylinder, by which means the
material, having received a form or been made into a pattern by the goffering
chains, is pressed upon and caused to adhere to the edges of the lace, quilling,
or other fabric. To insure the clearing of the goffering material from the
wires, plates, or other pattern-forming portions of the chains, I cut away a
portion of the wires, plates, or other pattern-forming parts of such chains in
such manner that a thread H (passed through a guide H¹) may lie by the
side of them without being goffered, such thread lying upon the goffered
material will hold down, and lead away such material to the pressing wheels
to be pressed upon the edges of the lace, quilling, or other fabric, which is
first moistened with gelatine or other adhesive equivalent material.
It will be evident to a practical workman that by arranging the chains,
pressing wheels, and drum or. cylinder as above described, in respect to each
other, the whole can be moved simultaneously by turning the shaft C, which
may be fitted with a handle at either end for that purpose; or the machine
may be driven by other than hand power. Under each outer chain is a
plate L, which communicates heat to the chains, such plates L being heated
by gas jets in the cross heads of the pipes M, which are supplied with gas
regulated by stop-cocks. The pressure of the pressing wheels K is regulated
by weights, capable of adjustment upon levers K₁ placed under the table on
which the machine stands; these levers depress hooked rods K, which have
their upper ends screwed into brass collars K³ near each end of the axle of the
pressing rollers, such rollers, rods, and levers are not shown in Figure 1, but
they are seen in their proper place in Figure 2.
My second improvement is shewn in Figures 3, 4, 7, 8, 9, 10, and 11.
Figure 8 being a side view, and Figure 4 an end view of apparatus constructed
according to this improvement. A, A, are standards shewn at Figure 8 broken
off at bottom. These standards are connected together by tie bars B and B',
each of which carries three axle pins, upon which are free to turn forked and
jointed levers C, through the forks of which are passed strong round bars D
and D', upon each of which bars D and D' are secured three driving cams E;
one end of the bar D₁ is provided with a fly-wheel F, on the boss of which is
firmly fixed a forked bracket or bearing carrying a truck G, which bears
against the incline of a boss H cast on the side of one of the standards A. The
boss of the wheel F is grooved; this groove receives the lower end of a lever I,
the upper end of which is forked, and is secured by a strong pin to one end
of the bar D. The lever I rocks upon a pin in a bracket or projection on one
of the end standards A, by which means as the wheel is turned in the direc-

page_text: tion of the arrow the three driving cams E on the bar D' will be forced nearer
the fly-wheel end of the machine, thereby causing the jointed levers to unfold
themselves, and drive upwards a lower pressing bar K³, which has three pro-
jecting pieces on its under side on the central portion thereof, against and in
which pieces the upper ends of the lever C rest. This pressing bar K' is
formed hollow on each side of the central portion, and in such hollow portions
are secured pipes L' pierced for gas jets. These pipes may be connected to
other gas pipes by means of flexible tubes to supply the jets with gas for
heating the pressing bars K¹. Simultaneously with the moving of the bar K¹
upwards the pressing bar K is forced downwards by the unfolding of the
jointed levers C, which is effected by their being pressed by the cams E on
the bar D, which bar is moved in an opposite direction to the bar D' by the
rocking lever I; the lower ends of the levers C rest in and upon projections
cast on the central portion of the upper side of the pressing bar K, which is
raised upward by springs M hooked to the bar K and to T or otherwise
shaped arms, which may be secured to the top tie bar B of the pressing
machine; the pressing bar K is formed hollow on each side, each hollow
portion is provided with a pipe L pierced for gas jets, and supplied with gas
in the way described for the bar K. The tie bar B' projects outwards on
each side thereof, and forms a platform upon which slide in grooves a pair of
goffering machine standards N, kept parallel to each other by two double
reversed screws N¹, which work in holes tapped in the lower part of the
standards; on one end of each pair of screws are secured toothed wheels N³,
which gear into each other so that as one screw is turned round by the handle
on the opposite end of either screw to the wheel, the other screw will be turned
the reverse way, by which means the goffering chains O which are placed upon
axles O¹ projecting from the sides of the standards may be drawn away, while
the materials which have been goffered are pressed by the pressing machine,
the bars of which said pressing machine may be straight or otherwise shaped
as required. The goffering chains are arranged in such manner that each
pair can be adjusted in depth and length by set screws at the left-hand end
of Figure 1 as shewn, or by other equivalent means. I do not confine myself
to the shape of the wires, plates, or pattern-forming portions shewn, as I
purpose using chains composed of parts varying in shape, length, and depth as
required. I give, for example, a double link and plate O only in side view at
Figure 7. When the material is goffered I pass guides P through the sides
of the chains in such manner that these guides will hold the goffered materials
when the chains have been drawn out, or drawn nearly out of "the goffered
materials, so that the making-up machine may press the materials together.

page_text: When the links or arms of the goffering chains are of divers lengths, the
materials will be goffered in plaits or goffers of various sizes. Besides the
above-described guides P, I also employ adjustable guides P, P, shewn in
plan, Figure 8, and in end view, Figure 9, having loose ends or sockets Q, Q,
which are capable of adjustment like the guides by means of double-ended
screws; or instead of the above-mentioned guides I sometimes employ guides.
formed of rods or bars having needles inserted in them of any length, and.
placed at any distance apart required in order to pass in the goffered material,
and hold it in position until pressed in the above-described pressing machine;
portions of such guides are shown in side view at Figures 10 and 11.
The machinery or apparatus to which my third improvement relates is
shewn at Figures 5, 5A, and 5B, Sheet 5, and in Figure 6, Sheet 6-
Figure 5 is a front view of the main portion of machinery or apparatus con-
structed according to this improvement. A is a table or platform upon which
is secured a framing B, which forms or is provided with bearings in which the
shafts C and C¹ turn; on one end of these shafts is a pair of open ended
pressing rollers D and D', grooved upon their circumference near one edge
thereof in such manner that a wire, cord, or thread supplied to them will
be enclosed by such grooves; the wire, cord, or thread is fed from a spool or
drum, and is passed through a hole in a wire, cord, or thread guide G before
being placed in the groove of the pressing rollers. Near to each pair of grooves
I apply a guide H, which will hold a binding or other material supplied to it
in such manner that the wire, cord, or thread will be enclosed in the fold
thereof at the same time as the pressed edge of a bonnet front, rouch, or
millinery or other trimming, or part of such bonnet front, rouch, or millinery
or other trimming which is pressed into the fold of the binding or other
material, so that the whole is pressed by the heated pressing rollers before
mentioned to form a band. The guide for the binding or other material is
shown in plan at Figure 5A in its proper position; in respect to the lowermost
of the grooved heated pressing rollers the guide is capable of adjustment as
shewn. Sometimes instead of a guide to form the binding or other material
into a single fold like the one just mentioned, I use a guide shewn in side
view at Figure 5B, which will fold the binding or other material into a
trio or threefold. These guides I am aware have been used for other pur-
poses. The pressure of the upper grooved heated pressing roller upon the
lower one is regulated by a weight K attached to the ends of a forked lever K',
connected near its opposite end to two rods screwed into collars I on the
axle of the upper grooved roller D. The roller can be raised in its bearings
when desirable by the counter lever K³, which is moved by a. treadle worked

page_text: by the foot, the lever K lifting the weight K and lever K¹, and consequently
raising the upper roller D clear of the lower roller D'. Both these rollers
are heated by gas jets L supplied with gas through the pipe L'. The binding
or other material supplied to the guide G is passed from its spool or bobbin
on the pin M between a roller on the pin N. This roller presses the binding
or other material close to a roll of flannel or equivalent material placed on
the pin O, and supplied with moisture as required; the binding or other
material is then passed on either side of the pin P, and through the folding
guide; the pins M, N, O, P, only are shewn in position at Figure 5, and the
binding spool or bobbin roller and flannel are shewn in the side view at
Figure 6, in which is also shown the arrangement of the above-named weight,
levers, and treadle attached to the standards and table upon which the appa-
ratus stands.
Having now described the nature of my said Invention, and in what
manner the same may be performed, I declare that I claim,-
First, the arrangement and combination of machinery or apparatus first
berein-before described, constituting my first improvement.
Second, the arrangement and combination of machinery or apparatus
secondly herein-before described, constituting my second improvement.
Third, the arrangement and combination of machinery or appartus thirdly
herein-before described, constituting my third improvement.
In witness whereof, I, the said Charles Grey Hill, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Nineteenth day of June, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-five.
Witness,
GEO. JON. ROBINSON,
Patent Office,
Nottingham.
CHARLES GREY HILL. (L.S.)