IMPROVEMENTS IN MECHANISM OR APPARATUS TO BE EMPLOYED IN THE MANU- FACTURE OF FELT HATS
Year: 1867

page_text: Sealed the 26th June 1868, and dated the 31st December 1867.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said James George Crompton
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
31st December 1867.
I, JAMES GEORGE CROMPTON, of Stockport, in the County of Chester,
Leather Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for
"IMPROVEMENTS IN MECHANISM OR APPARATUS TO BE EMPLOYED IN THE MANU-
FACTURE OF FELT HATS," to be as follows:-
The Invention relates more particularly to that portion of the manufacture
of felt hats termed "blocking," that is, the intermediate process which
converts the conically shaped felt into an ordinary shaped hat. To effect this
the conical shape has to undergo two preparatory operations, namely,
"breaking" or shaping the brim and forming the body, during which latter
process the tip or apex of the previously shaped cone is broken. After
leaving the body shaping the embryo hat is ready for the final blocking, which

page_text: completes the process of shaping in order to carry out these various processes
in one machine.
According to my improvements I employ a table or platform, upon one end
of which is constructed projecting horizontal pieces of metal radiating from a
centre similar to the teeth of a bevil wheel, with this exception, that the
teeth or projections are rounded on the top; fitting into the recesses of these
projections are similar teeth or projections formed on the under side of the
segment of a disc, the centre of which is secured or connected to the platform
or table by means of a joint at a point corresponding to the centre from
which the teeth radiate. This upper segmental jaw is actuated by eccentrics
or cranks gradually to open and close so as to allow the teeth or projections
of the upper jaw to sink into the recesses formed between the projections or
teeth of the under stationary jaw. Secondly, upon the same platform, at the
side thereof, is arranged a pair of scissor-like levers, the upper portion of
which above the platform is supplied each with a semicircular cylindrical
block, the lower portions of the levers being connected together by a spring
and actuated by a cam so as gradually to open and close the cylindrical blocks;
the said block for this purpose being divided down the middle in two parts:
Thirdly, in the opposite end of the platform from the jaws a hole is provided,
around which a flat ring is placed, which can be firmly secured to the
platform by means of swivel holdfasts or other equivalent; centrally placed
above the hole is a screw working in a bracket secured to the platform, which
when screwed down is employed to press upon a block. From the foregoing
description the blocking of the felt body will readily be understood.
The conical shape being first immersed in hot water so as to become
thoroughly saturated is placed with its outer edges or segmental base between
the jaws at the end of the machine, which when the top one is closing breaks
or stretches the portion of body so compressed in such a manner as to give
a preparatory formation to the brim; when this is effected the disfigured
conical body is placed upon the expanting cylindrical blocks, the depth of
which corresponds to the depth of the body of the hat under manufacture:
Whilst undergoing the stretching operation the felt body is gradually turned
round by hand so as to subject its whole body surface to the action of the
blocks, the effect of which is to give the first cylindrical shape to the body,
and effectually destroy or break the "tip," at this time the shape is ready
for the final process of blocking; for this purpose the flat ring, the hole of
which corresponds to the hole in the table or platform, is raised, so as to
allow the felt body to be placed in the recess formed, by the, hole in such a
manner that the brim of the body rests upon the upper surface of the table

page_text: round the hole; the flat ring is now firmly secured down on the brim so as to
retain the same, after which the flock is placed into the recess formed by
the felt body and forcibly pressed therein by the screw, which finally gives
the required shape and finish to the blocking process.
I would remark that although the three operations are distinct from each
other they are all simultaneously performing their respective duties, the
eccentrics giving motion to the jaw breaking the brim, and also the cam
employed for opening and closing the expanding semicircular block are
actuated by means of gearing which receives motion from a pulley and strap.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said James George Crompton in the Great Seal Patent Office
on the 30th June 1868.
TO ALL TO WHOM. THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JAMES
GEORGE CROMPTON, of Stockport, in the County of Lancaster, Leather Manu-
facturer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Thirty-first day of December, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-seven, in the thirty-first year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me,
the said James George Crompton, Her special license that I, the said James
George Crompton, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others
as I, the said James George Crompton, my executors, administrators, and
assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and
at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully
night make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for
"IMPROVEMENTS IN MECHANISM OR APPARATUS TO BE EMPLOYED IN THE MANU-
FACTURE OF FELT HATS," upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said
James George Crompton, my executors or administrators, by an instrument
in writing under my, or their, or one of their. hands and seals, should par-
ticularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what
manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in
the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and inmediately
after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said James George Crompton, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is tu

page_text: be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement and accompanying Drawings (that is to say) :-
The Invention relates more particularly to that portion of the manufacture of
felt hats termed "blocking" that is the intermediate process which converts
the conically shaped felt into an ordinary shaped hat. To effect this the
conical shape has to undergo two preparations, viz., "breaking" or shaping the
brim and forming the body, during which latter process the tip or apex of the
previously shaped cone is broken. After leaving the body shaping the embryo
hat is ready for the final blocking which completes the process of shaping.
:
In order to carry out these various processes in one machine according to
my improvements I employ a table or platform, upon one end of which are
constructed projecting horizontal pieces of metal radiating from a centre
similar to the teeth of a bevil wheel, with this exception that the teeth or
projections are rounded on the top; fitting into the recesses of these projections
are similar teeth or projections formed on the under side of the segment of a
disc, the centre of which is secured or connected to the platform or table by
means of a joint at a point .corresponding to the centre from which the
teeth radiate. This upper segmental jaw is actuated by eccentrics or cranks
and caused gradually to open and close so as to allow the teeth or projections
of the upper jaw to sink into the recesses formed between the projections or
teeth of the under stationary jaw.
.
Secondly. Upon the same platform, at the side thereof, are arranged a pair
of scissor-like levers, the upper portion of which above the platform is supplied
each with a semicircular block, the lower portion of the levers being con-
nected together by a spring actuated by a cam so as gradually to open
and close the cylindrical blocks, the said block for this purpose being divided
down the middle in two parts.
Thirdly. In the opposite end of the platform from the jaws a hole is
provided around which a flat ring is placed which can be firmly secured to
the platfuim by means of swivel holdfasts or other equivalent; centrally
placed above the hole is a screw working in a bracket secured to the platform,
which when screwed down is employed to press upon a block.
From the foregoing description the blocking of the felt body will readily
be understood. The conical shape being first immersed in hot water so as
to become thoroughly saturated is placed with its outer edges or segmental base
between the jaws at the end of the macbine, which when the top one is closing
breaks or stretches the portion of body so compresed in such a manner
as to give a preparatory formation to the brim; when this is effected the
conical body is placed upon the expanding cylindrical blocks, the depth of

page_text: which corresponds to the depth of the body of the hat under manufacture;
whilst undergoing the stretching operation the felt body is gradually turned
round by hand so as to subject its whole body surface to the action of the
blocks, the effect of which is to give the first cylindrical shape to the body
and effectually destroy or break the "tip;" at this time the shape is ready for
the final process of blocking, for this purpose the flat ring, the hole of which
corresponds to the hole in the table or platform, is raised so as to allow the
felt body to be placed in the recess formed by the hole in such. a manner
that the brim of the body rests upon the upper surface of the table round the
hole; the flat ring is now firmly secured down on the brim, so as to retain the
same, after which the block is placed into the recess formed by the felt body
and forcibly pressed therein by the screw which finally gives the required
shape and finish to the blocking process. I would remark that although the
three operations are distinct from each other they are simultaneously
performing their respective duties, the eccentrics giving motion to the jaw,
breaking the brim and also the cam employed for opening and closing the
expanding semicircular block are actuated by means of gearing which receives
motion from a pulley and strap.
In order that the Invention may be better understood and explained in
detail, I have hereunto attached a Sheet of Drawings made upon a scale of
about three inches to the foot.
Fig. 1 represents a front elevation of the apparatus to be employed for
breaking the brim and for blocking Or shaping the bodies of hats, that is for
converting the conically shaped felt into a felt hat of any ordinary shape, and
Fig. 2 represents a plan view of same.
In Fig. 1 and 2, a, a, is the table or platform upon one end of which is
cast or otherwise constructed a series of corrugations or horizontal pieces of
metal b projecting and radiating from a centre (similar to the teeth of a bevi!
wheel) the upper surfaces thereof being rounded, and into the recess between
these projections 6 similar teeth or projections c fit which are formed on the
lower surface of a segmental jaw or plate d. This upper segmental jaw, is
connected by the rods e, e, to the eccentrics f, f, which when in motion effect
the opening and closing of the jaw causing its teeth or projections to enter
the recesses between the projections or teeth of the stationary jaw b. Upon
the same platform a pair of levers 9, 9, are arranged the upper ends of which
above the platform a being supplied with semicircular blocks h, h', the lower
portion of the levers g, g, being so actuated by the cam i and elastic band ¹
as gradually to open and close the two halves of the blocks h, h', which
expanding blocks I am aware have been previously used for opening the felt

page_text: preparatory to dyeing. At the opposite end of the platform to the jaws an
aperture jis provided around which a flat ring k is placed which may be of
any size required for the brim, and which is secured to the platform by means
of the latch, and above and connected with this hole the screw m is
supported which works in a bracket n secured to the platform, which when
screwed down is employed to press a block into the felt to give shape to the
crown.
The action of the machine is as follows:-The felt in the conical shape
being first steamed or immersed in hot water so as to become thoroughly
saturated and softened is placed with its outer edges or base between the
jaws d and b, which by the action of that portion of the hat body is stretched
or broken and is compressed thereby as a preparatory formation of the brim;
when this is effected the body is placed upon the expanding cylindrical
blocks h, h, the depth of which corresponds to the depth of the body, the
hollow or recess below the blocks being provided in order that the body may
be taken hold of by the broken brim and turned round by band so as to
subject the whole of the body to the stretching action of the blocks which
imparts the first cylindrical shape to the body, and opens out the conical top
to a flat crown, the shape is now ready for the process of "blocking," and for
this purpose the flat ring k which is retained by the latch and secured to
the platform by the binge o is raised so as to allow the felt body to be placed
in the recess j, in such a manner that the brim of the body rests upon the
surfaces of the table a, the flat ring k is now lowered and secured upon the
brim and a loose "block" is placed in the recess or hollow of the felt body,
into which it is pressed by the screw m, which completes the shape, and
finishes the blocking process; the pipes conveys steam to the places where
the various processes are carried on. I would remark that although the
three operations are distinct from each other the processes are carried on
simultaneously, both the eccentric actuating the jaw 6 for breaking the brim
and the cam i employed for opening and closing the expanding semicircular
blocks being actuated by means of the gearing t, t, which receives motion
from the pulley and strap v.
Having now described the nature of the said Invention together with the
method of carrying the same into practical effect, I wish it to be distinctly
understood that I claim,-
First. The employment and use of the corrugated jaws for "breaking" the
brim.
And, secondly. The combination of such jaws with the "stretching blocks"
or cylinder and the blocking apparatus for forming the crown and body of the

page_text: trated in the Drawings attached.
In witness whereof, I, the said James George Crompton, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, this Twenty-fifth day of June, in the year of our
Lord Oue thousand eight hundred and sixty-eight.
JAMES GEORGE CROMPTON. (L.S.)
Witnessed by
JOHN L. DAVIES, C.E.
Office for Patents,
Manchester.