Improvements in Sewing Machines.
Year: 1899

page_text: Date of Application, 18th Dec., 1899-Accepted, 17th Mar., 1900
[Communicated from abroad by THE MAJESTIC SEWING MACHINE COMPANY, a
Corporation organized in accordance with the Laws of the State of New York,
U.S.A.. and having its Office at 31, Nassau Street, in the Borough of Man-
hattan, in the City of New York, United States of America.]
Improvements in Sewing Machines.
I, PHILIP ARTHUR NEWTON, of the Office for Patents, 6, Bream's Buildings,
Chancery Lane, in the County of London, Patent Agent, do hereby declare the
nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement, as
communicated to me from abroad, and in the words of the inventor:.
This invention relates to certain improvements in sewing machines.
-
In certain kinds of work, more especially in such work as sewing sweat leathers
in hats, in securing the upturned bottoms of trousers in position, and in sewing
down the hem on the tops of stockings and other similar work the market
demands that the work be done by blind stitch, that is, a stitch which does not
show on the outside of the goods.
Attempts have been made to produce blind stitching machines for such purposes
as those named above, and a few such machines are now commercially used.
So far as known to me, however, such machines are complicated in construction.
and their sphere of practical usefulness is limited to some one particular line of
work, or to work on some particular style of goods. The complicated nature of
these machines renders them expensive to construct, and they are furthermore
exceedingly liable to get out of order.
It is the object of this invention to produce a machine which, while it is
primarily intended for blind stitching, shall be capable of use for various kinds
of work and on various styles of goods, such as sewing in hat sweats, sewing
trousers bottoms, knit goods, and other work of this class where the market
demands a blind stitch, and which shall also be capable of use for other kinds
of work. such, for instance, as overseam through and through stitching, making
what is generally known in the art as "butting" work, and, in general, to produce
a machine which is characterized by simplicity of construction and positive
action in operation, and which has a far wider field of usefulness than machines
heretofore commercially employed, and at the same time is inexpensive to build,
and is not liable to get out of order.
In the accompanying drawings which constitute a part of this specification, and
in which similar letters of reference indicate similar parts: -
Fig. 1 is a vertical section taken through a machine embodyin, the invention,
the plane of section being taken on the line 1-1 of Fig. 2.
Fig. 2 is a front view of the machine shown in Fig. 1.
Fig. 3 is a section taken on the line 3-3 of Fig. 1, looking in the direction of
the arrow;
Figs. 4 and 5 are sectional plan views taken on the lines 4-4 and 5-5.
nesnectively of Fio 1

page_text: Fig. 6 is a detail front view, partly in section, showing the manner of mounting
the looper.
Fig. 6 is a sectional detail, taken on the line Ga of Fig. 6.
Fig. is a plan view of the construction shown in Fig. 6, with the looper
operating bar and block removed.
Fig. is a sectional detail view, taken on the line 8 of Fig. 7, and looking
in the direction of the arrow, the goods to be sewed being shown in position
between the needle plate and the presser foot, and supported by the guide.
Fig. 9 is a sectional detail plan view of a portion of the devices shown in
Fig. 8, but the needle being threaded and the looper in the act of taking the
loop from the needle;
Fig. 10 is a sectional detail showing the construction by which the take-up is
adjusted.
Fig. 11 is a sectional detail showing the manner of mounting the needle;
Fig. 12 is a sectional detail showing the means for adjusting the presser foot;
Fig. 13 is a sectional detail plan view on the line 13 of Fig. 2, and looking in
the direction of the arrow; this view illustrating the manner of mounting the
main work guide.
Fig. 14 is a detached view of the presser foot;
Fig. 15 is a perspective view of the looper, and
Fig. 16 is a detail view of a modification of one of the work guides, which is
used when it is desired to insert a reed between the sweat leather and body of
a hat.
In the machine which has been selected as illustrating the preferred embodi-
ment of the invention, the frame 1 is of the usual form, having an overhanging
arm and the usual spool support 2. The front end of the arm has forwardly
projecting guide lugs 4, and mounted between these guides lugs 4, is a movable
frame or carrier 5. This frame or carrier is preferably provided with guiding
rods 6, which are secured thereto, these rods finding their upper bearing in a
cross piece of the carrier, and their lower bearing in a similar cross piece 8.
The rods pass through perforations in guide lugs 4, which perforations form
guiding bearings.
The frame or carrier 5 serves to support the stitch-forming mechanism which
will be hereinafter specifically described, and the frame or carrier is given a
reciprocation, preferably by the following means:-
Located in the overhanging hollow arm of the frame is a lever 9 which is
fulcrummed on a pin 10, which pin passes through one of a series of holes 11
in the lever, and a similar series of holes in the frame, and finds its inner bearing
in one of a similar series of holes in a pair of blocks 11' on the inside of the frame.
The lever is connected at one end to the frame or carrier 5 by means of a pin 12
passing through eyes in projecting lugs 13 of the carrier. The connection between
the pin 12 and the lever 9 is sufficiently loose to permit the vertically reciprocating
movement of the carrier.
The opposite end of the lever 9 has a stud 14, shown in dotted lines in Figure 4,
which is preferably in the form of a friction roll, and this stud engages in a groove
in a closed or island cam 15. This cam 15 is carried on a shaft 16, which finds
its bearing in the outer side of the frame 1. The shaft 16 is provided with a
gear wheel 17, which meshes with a gear 18 on the driving shaft 19, said shaft
carrying the driving pulley 20, by which power is applied to the machine. It will
be understood that as the shaft 19 revolves, the carrier 5 is reciprocated vertically,
the number of said reciprocations with respect to the number of revolutions of
the main shaft being determined by the relation of the gears 17 and 18. The
amount of reciprocation of the carrier 5 is determined by the position of the
fulcrum pin 10. As has been before stated, the lever 9 is provided with a series
of holes 11, the overhanging arm of the carrier having a series of holes corre-
sponding in number to the holes 11.
Referring to Figure 4, in which the position of the pin is shown partly in

page_text: full and partly in dotted lines, and the adjustments of the pin are shown in
dotted lines, it will be seen that the pin 10 does not extend through the frame
from side to side, and that the holes in the frame are arranged partly on one side
of the frame and partly on the other. In the present instance one of the blocks 11'
has one end bearing hole and the other block two such holes, and the frame has
two holes on one side and one on the other. It is, of course, obvious that the
holes might be arranged on one side of the frame, or might pass through the
frame from side to side. The present construction is preferable, however, because
by it I am enabled to get a fine adjustment for the pin, and, at the same time,
avoid making the holes in the frame so close together as to increase the liability
of breaking out the web between them. It will be noted that by this construction
I am enabled to obtain a fine adjustment of the pin, and therefore a fine
adjustment in the amount of movement of the carrier frame 5, and to do this with
great rapidity. In practice, the adjustments required for the carrier-frame are
as fine as one thirty-second of an inch.
In constructions which have been heretofore used, so far as known to me, the
frame has been reciprocated by a cam located in the forward part of the over-
hanging arm. In order to obtain adjustment of the reciprocation of the carrier
with a machine thus constructed, it is necessary to change the cam. This is a
slow process, and requires not only considerable dismembering of the machine,
but also the services of an expert workman, whereas, with the present form of
adjustment, a comparatively unskilled operater is able to make the necessary
adjustment rapidly and without difficulty.
The carrier frame 5 is provided with downwardly projecting brackets 21, 22,
which are preferably cast in one piece with the carrier frame. These brackets
are perforated to provide bearings for the needle bar 23 and the looper operating
bar 24; and the bracket 21 is also provided with a bearing 25 for the looper
shaft.
The needle bar is given its reciprocation by mechanism which will now be
described.
Connected to the needle bar 23 is one end of a link or connecting rod 26, the
other end of which is secured to the lever 27, which, in the present machine, is
located in the hollow vertical portion of the frame. This lever 27 is pivotted
on a stud or pin 28 which has its bearing on one side of the frame, and its other
end in a piece 29 projecting from the inside of the frame. The connection
between the lever and pins is preferably tapered, in order that a ready adjustment
for wear may be made. The upper end of the lever 27 is formed into a yoke 27!,
which yoke embraces and forms bearings for a sliding block 30, which embraces
an excentric 31, these parts being shown in dotted lines in Figure 1, and partly
shown in plan in Figure 4. The excentric is mounted on the main shaft 19.
The needle bar carries a bracket, the downwardly projecting arm 32 of which
serves to support the needle. This bracket bas upwardly extending perforated
projections 33, 34, which embrace the needle bar, and a longitudinal body
portion 35, which is guided in a slot in the under side of the bracket 22,-this
construction being shown in Figure 1. The longitudinal body portion 35 in
connection with the slot in the bracket, serves to guide the needle bar in its
movements, and to ensure it against turning.
It is very important in this class of machines, to provide for exactness of
movement of the needle bar, not only to cause the needle to come truly into
position to present its loops to the looper, but also to prevent the needle from
striking the guides or any of the other closely positioned working parts, and
thereby being broken or sprung to such a degree that the looper will not readily
take the loop. It will be noted that the construction just described enables me
to use a straight needle having a movement in a right line, as distinguished from
constructions which have heretofore been employed, in which the needle is a
curved needle, and reciprocates in the arc of a circle. The great advantage

page_text: resulting from the use of a straight needle will become apparent when the two
modes of operation are compared.
With a curved needle, in which it is necessary to place the eye on the side,
the eye being at right angles to the curve, the loop is thrown out on the side.
In order to successfully take such a loop, the looper must revolve around a
horizontal axis, and the loop must be taken from the curved needle practically at
the point of intersection of its arc, with the arc of travel of the looper. The parts
must, therefore, be timed with great exactness, so that the curved needle may
meet the loop at the precise point of intersection of the two arcs, and should the
needle be sprung or bent, the curved needle would fail to take the loop. By
using a straight needle, the looper may be mounted on an axis which is nearly
vertical, the needle reciprocating in a line which is secant to the arc in which
the looper travels. By this arrangement, a longer run of the needle is secured
with respect to the looper, and the looper is given much more time in which to
take the loop. Practically considered, it is found that, with a curved needle,
the variation of the loop taking point cannot much exceed one one-hundredth
of an inch, whereas, with a straight needle, the variation may, in extreme cases,
rise to about an eighth of an inch.
Furthermore, as machines of this general class make what is known in the
art as a chain-stitch, with a curved needle, as much exactness is necessary when
the looper is delivering its loop to the needle in making the second part of the
stitch, as when the needle is delivering its loop to the looper in making the first
part of the stitch. Again, when the stitch is being drawn tight, the strain on a
curved needle is directly across its curve, and any considerable pull on the thread,
such as is necessary to make a tight stitch on heavy work, will bend or spring
the needle, and this fact has militated against the use of curved-needle machines,
especially on the finer grades of work. With a straight needle, the strain in
drawing the stitch tight is lengthwise of the needle, and consequently as much
strain can be exerted on the thread in drawing up the stitch as is necessary to
make a workman-like job.
The bracket 21 is inclined at a slight angle to the horizontal, and has a
perforation through it in which is mounted the looper shaft 36, carrying the
curved looper 37, which is or may be of any usual construction. The looper is
mounted in a block 38, which is carried on the shaft 36, being adjustably secured
in the block by means of a set screw 39. The upper end of the shaft is provided
with a circular plate or disk 40, which has a radial groove 41, in which plays
a sliding block 42. This block is engaged by a pin 43, which depends from the
clamp block 44, which is secured on the looper-operating bar 24. This clamp
block is preferably made adjustable on the bar, being secured in position in a
well-known manner by means of a set screw 45. The inner end of the looper
operating bar 24 is secured to a connecting rod or link 46, which rod has its inner
end pinned to a lever 47. This lever 47 is mounted on a pin 48, which passes
through the boss 29 (see Figs. 1 and 3). The upper end of the lever 47 is provided
with a stud 49, which is preferably in the form of a friction roll, and this stud
engages with a groove in a closed cam 50, mounted on the main shaft 19. It will
be understood that as the main shaft revolves, the looper bar 24 is given longi-
tudinal reciprocation, and, through the pin 43 and the sliding block 42, imparts
a rotary reciprocation to the looper shaft and looper. As has been before stated,
the looper shaft is not vertically mounted, but stands at a slight angle to a
vertical line. The purpose of this construction will be understood when the fact
is appreciated that it is very difficult to cause a straight needle to throw out its
loop on the top. By mounting the looper shaft at an angle in the manner
described, the looper, as it oscillates, is given a slight downward movement.
The needle can be caused, therefore, to throw out its loop at an angle to its path,
or somewhat on its side, in which position the looper can readily take it. This
is accomplished by placing the needle in its holder in such a position that its eye
throws out its loop in a plane which intersects, at an acute angle, a vertical

page_text: plane passed through the needle. In other words, the horizontal needle, instead
of throwing out its loop out on the top, throws it out slightly to on side of the
top. By this construction, I am enabled to use a straight needle, thereby gaining
the advantages which, as heretofore set forth, flow from the use of such a needle.
As has been before stated, the needle is carried by the arm 32 of the bracket,
which is mounted on the needle bar. This bracket has a threaded perforation
into which is screwed a pin 51. This pin has a perforation 52, which serves as a
thread guide. Its inner end serves as a backstop for the needle, the needle being
held in position by a set screw 53 (see Fig. 11). In all sewing machines, adjust-
ment of the needle is necessary. By the construction just described, I obtain a
fine and easily determinable adjustment. The pin 51 can be screwed in or out
the amount required to give the adjustment, and left in that position. Should
it become necessary to replace the needle, either because of breakage or for any
other reason, the old needle can be taken out, and a new one substituted without
any experiments, in order to determine its correct position.
The thread is led from a spool mounted on the usual spool support 2, through
the usual eye, over a tension device 54, which is or may be of any ordinary
construction. From the tension device, the thread is led through the eye 55 in a
bar 56. This bar 56 is mounted in a rotary stud 57, it being held in position
by a set screw 58. The rotary stud 57 finds its bearing in a bracket 59, which is
secured by screws 60 to the carrier 5. From the eye 56, the thread fs led through
the eye 61 in a small bar or plate 62, which is preferably mounted on the projec-
tion 34 of the needle bar bracket. From the eye 61 and plate 62, the thread is
led through a perforation in a threaded plug 63, which is secured to the end of
the needle bar. From the perforation in the plug 63, the thread passes through
the eye 52, and thence to the eye of the needle.
Assuming the parts to be in the position shown in Figure 1, that is, with the
needle bar in its extreme outward position, and the looper holding the loop
formed by the needle on the preceding stitch-forming movement, as the needle
bar starts inward, the thread controlling plate 62 moving with it, takes care of
the slack, which would otherwise form between the eye 55 in the bar 56, and
the perforation in the end of the needle bar. No change occurs in the action on
the thread until the needle reaches the goods, and up to this point the movement
of the plate 62 is practically a purely slack-thread controlling movement, as the
difference in distance between the eye in the plate 62 and the eye 55 is so small
as to be practically neglected. As the needle enters the goods, a little slack is
formed near the eye of the needle, and this slack is taken up by the further
inward movement of the needle, and also by the movement of the plate 62, for
Ly the time the needle has reached the position where it has passed through the
loop held by the looper, the plate 62 has reached a point where the distance
between its eye and the eye 55 is appreciably greater than it was when the parts
were in their first position. The plate 62, therefore, has begun to pull on the
thread, and consequently draws back, through the eye of the needle, a part of the
slack which was before referred to as formed around the when the needle reached
the goods, the rest of the slack being being taken up by the further inward
movement of the needle. As the needle passes through the loop held by the
looper, the looper casts the loop off on it. The needle now continues its advance,
and the slack formed by the cast loop is taken up by the needle and by the
plate 62. In other words, the needle bar and the plate 62 now begin to set the
preceding stitch, and this stitch-setting action of the plate 62 and the needle bar
is continued until the needle and the plate reach their extreme inward position.
At this time, the eye in the plate 62 has drawn back through the needle eye a
part of the slack formed by the cast loop, and nearly all the remainder of this
slack has been taken up by the inward movement of the needle. This continued
action of the needle and plate has, therefore, nearly set the preceding stitch.
As the needle starts back, it throws a new loop, which is immediately picked by
the looper, and, at the same time, slack begins to be formed between the plate

page_text: and the eye 55. This slack is however drawn forward through the eye of the
needle by the forward movement of the looper. When the needle, in its back-
ward movement, and the plate 62, reach, on their return movement, about the
point before referred to, as the point where the plate 62 began its take up action,
the plate 62 ceases to give up slack, and, for the rest of the movement of the
plate 62 and the needle bar, they exercise a pull on the thread which is held by
the looper and the tension.
This pull of the plate 62 and the needle bar operate in the first instance, to
draw tight the preceding stitch, and then to reeve off from the spool, through
the tension, the thread which is to form the next stitch. The needle bar and
plate 62 begin their take-up action on the inward movement of the needle bar,
and complete it on the outward movement. By this construction, any sudden
pull or whip on the thread is avoided, and the danger of breakage from this cause
is obviated. Furthermore, by this construction, I am enabled to readily provide
for any changes in adjustment which may be desired. Should it be desired, for
instance, to decrease the amount of thread taken up, the set screw 58 is loosened,
and the bar 56 is drawn forward, and, at the same time, is turned upward, the
stud 57 permitting this movement. The screw is then tightened, and secures
the bar in position, and also locks the stud from further rotary movement. The
bar is adjusted, however, as before, so that its eye. 55 is in the same vertical line
as the eye in the thread-controlling plate. When the bar has been thus elevated,
it will be seen that the distance between the eye 55 in the bar 56, and the eye in
the plate 62 when the needle is in its inward position, more nearly approximates
the length of the vertical line between the two eyes, than when the bar is in the
upward position. Since, however, the amount of thread taken up is measured
by the difference in the length of these two lines, it will be understood that less
thread will be taken up than before the adjustment was made. Should, on the
contrary, it be desired to increase the amount of thread taken up, the bar 56 is
pulled outward and turned downward. This movement shortens the distance
between the two eyes when the needle is in its inward position, thereby consider-
ably increasing the amount of thread taken up, the increase being determined by
the amount of movement of the bar. The work is clamped in position against
the needle plate 64 by means of a presser foot 65, which is carried, in the present
machine, by a longitudinally moving rod or bar 66. This bar 66 is mounted
in a block 67, having two projections 68, 69, which are provided with longitudinal
perforations. The block 67 is guided between shoulders 70 on a bracket 71,
which is secured to the bed plate of the machine. The bracket 71 (see Figure 12)
is provided with an overhanging projection 72, in which is mounted a screw 73,
which engages a threaded perforation in the block 67. The block 67, and
consequently the bar 66 and the presser foot carried thereby, are vertically
adjustable in either direction, by operating the screw 73. The bracket 71 is
provided with apertures 74, through which pass screws 75. The apertures 74
are considerably larger than the shanks of the screws, but are smaller than the
heads thereof. In order to adjust the block 67 vertically, as before described,
it is first necessary to loosen the screws 75 and, after the desired adjustment has
been made, the bar is held firmly in adjusted position, by turning up the screws
until the heads seat themselves firmly against the bracket 71. The presser
foot is thrown forward by means of a presser foot lever 76, which is secured
to the side of the presser foot bar 66 by means of a screw 77, or in any other
convenient way.
The inner end of the lever 76 acts as a cam against the projec-
tion 69, to throw the bar 66 and presser foot forward. The presser foot and bar
are returned by means of a spring 78, which is seated between the projection 69
and a pin passing through the bar.
The presser foot 65 is shown in detail in Figure 14. It will be seen that it is
provided with an overhanging lip 65, forming, between it and the foot, a guide,
the function of which will be hereinafter stated.
The work is fed forward by a serrated dog 79, formed on the end of the plate

page_text: or bar 80, extending rearwardly from the dog, this bar being supported at its
forward end by a web 81, secured to the underside of the bed plate in any usual
or desired manner. The bar 80, which is shown as having a slightly off-set
portion (see Figures 6 to 8, inclusive), rests upon and is secured to a casting 82,
which is slotted at one end, and supported by a screw 83, which finds its bearing
in the bed plate. The bed plate is provided with ways 84, and in these ways
moves a block 85. This block has a downwardly depending stud or pin 86,
which passes through a slot 87 (clearly shown in dotted lines in plan view,
Figure 7), the construction being such, that when the plate 85 is moved forward
and back in its ways, the casting 82 will move therewith, carrying with it the
feed dog, which is secured to it. The slot 87, however, permits the casting to
have an endwise reciprocation independently of the block. The pin 86 engages
a cam groove 89 in a roll 90, which is mounted on a cam shaft 91, lying under-
neath the bed plate. The roll 90 is also provided with a cam projection 91',
which acts against a bearing plate 92, which is secured to the casting. The
shaft 91 is geared to a vertical shaft 93 by a pair of mitre gears 94, 95. The
shaft 93, at its upper end, carries another mitre gear 96, which meshes with a
nitre gear 97 on shaft 16. As shaft 91 is revolved through the connections just
described, it will be seen that the feed dog 79 will be given its reciprocation
toward and from the work by means of the stud 86, which engages with the
cam groove 89. The engagement of the pin 86 with the cam groove 89 causes
the casting 82 to have a pivotal movement on the stud 83, but the radius in
which the dog moves is so long, that this circular movement can practically be
disregarded, and the action is substantially the same as though the block 82 and
the dog had a reciprocation in a right line towards and from the work. The
feeding movement of the dog is caused by contact of the cam projection 91 with
the cam plate 92. This engagement causes casting 82 and the dog to move
toward the stud 83. thus moving the work forward. The return movement of
the dog is produced by means of a spring 98. The amount of movement of
the feed dog, and consequently the length of the stitch, is controlled by a back
stop, cam 99, which is operated by a short lever 100; which lies on the top of the
bed plate, this being a usual construction.
For sewing certain classes of goods, and particularly in sewing the sweat
leathers, in hats, or the up-turned bottoms of trousers, it is necessary to
provide a work guide, the office and function of which is not only to properly
present the work to the stitch forming device, but also to retain it in proper
form.
-
The
In the machine which has been selected for illustrating the invention, I have
provided a guide 101, which consists of a plate having the shape of a segment
of a circle, though the shape will differ according to the kind of work to be
operated upon. This guide 101 is secured to a block 102, this block being
pivotted to a sliding block 103. The sliding block 103 moves between ways 101,
which are secured to a casting 105, the casting 105 being secured to a depending
flange 106 on the bed plate, or fastened to it in any suitable manner.
block 103 is forced upward by a spring 107, which bears at its upper end against
the block, and at its lower end against a web connecting the ways or guides 104.
The upward movement of the block is limited by a stop screw 108, passing
through a threaded aperture in the web at the upper end of the ways, a check
nut 109 being provided to hold the screw in position. The guides 104 are
provided with wings or sidewise projections 110, and the block 102 is formed so
that the flat faces of its sides bear against these wings, (see Figures 1 and 13).
The lower ends of these wings 110 are chamfered off, as shown at 111 (Figure 1).
When the work holder 101 is forced downward, it carries with it the block 102
and 103, the block 103 being vertically guided, as before stated, in the ways 104.
When these blocks have been moved downward sufficiently far to permit the
work to be placed on or removed from the guide, as the case may be, the block 102
is swung forward on its pivot, At this time, its inner flat sides or faces are

page_text: partly below the ends of the wings 110, and these flat sides coming in contact
with the chamfers 111, lock the block and its attached guide in its downward
position, so that the work can readily be placed on the guides. In order to permit
the guide to swing forward, the block 103 is also provided with chamfers 112
which allow the guide and block 102 to be swung forward slightly, the parts
taking the position shown in dotted in Figure 1. The work having been placed
in position on the guide, the guide is swung backward, and is moved up by the
spring 107 into proper position to present the work to the needle.
In order to prevent the work from riding upward off the work guide, I prefer-
ably provide a pair of pivoted guides or stops 113, 114, which act on the top of
the work above the guide 101. These stops are normally forced upward by
springs 115, 116, the upward movement being controlled by stop screws 117, 118,
which engage threaded apertures in the bed plate. These stops or guides bearing
against the upper edge of the work, overcome any tendency towards vertical
movement, which is sometimes induced by the action of the needle, or from
other causes.
In sewing sweat leather in hats, it is sometimes considered desirable to introduce
between the sweat leather and the body of the hat, a covered reed. When this
is done, the guide 113 is provided with a groove 119 through which the reed is
fed in position to be properly secured by the stitch-forming mechanism.
Assuming that the machine which has been selected for the purpose of illus-
trating the invention is arranged to sew the sweat leathers in hats by a blind
zig-zag stitch, and the construction has been described with particular reference
to this work, the operation of the machine is as follows:-
The work guide 101 having been pushed down and rocked forward on its
pivot, the flat sides of the carrying block come in contact with the chamfers 111
of the wings 105, and lock it in its lowered position. A hat is now placed in
position on the work guide, the crown of the hat resting against the concave inner
side of the guide, and the brim being folded over the edge and lying on the other
side. The presser foot has been thrown forward by the operation of the cam
lever 76. The work guide is now rocked backward and the spring 107 forces
the hat into proper position to be operated upon by the stitch-forming mechanism.
The presser foot is now released, and clamps the work between itself and the
needle plate, as shown in Figure 8. The end of the sweat leather is now intro-
duced in the groove in the presser foot formed by the overhanging lip 65. The
machine being now set into operation, the needle passes through the hat brim
and the sweat leather, and, on its return stroke, throws out the loop, which is
caught by the looper in the usual manner. When the needle has reached the
end of its outward stroke, the cam 15 operates through the lever 9 to raise the
carrier 5 and the stitch forming mechanism, the work being held in position by
the presser foot, and being also additionally held from rising by the guides or
stops 113. When the carrier has been lifted, the needle makes a second inward
stroke, passing over the top of the work. As it moves inward, the plate 62, in
connection with the eye in the bar 56, operates to draw in the slack which was
formed by the outward movement of the needle bar, and the needle passes
through the loop held by the looper, the backward movement of the looper
depositing the loop on the needle. As the needle returns on its outward stroke,
the looper moves forward and catches the new loop thrown out from the needle,-
drawing it through the other loops, and completing the stitch which is formed
above the work. At the same time, the stitch is drawn tight by the outward
movement of the needle bar. and sufficient thread is pulled off the tension device
to form the succeeding stitch.
The cam 15 now operates, through the connections before described, to lower
the carrier 5, and, as the needle next comes inward, it passes through the goods
and repeats the stitch-forming operations before described. It will be seen,
therefore, that. in the machine arranged as shown, one stitch is formed through
the work and the next stitch is formed above the work,

page_text: To effect this result in the machine shown the gear 18 on the main shaft,
makes two revolutions for each revolution of the gear 17, and the machine thus
makes two stitches for each complete reciprocation of the carrier 5; that is to say,
one stitch is formed when the carrier is lowered, and one when it is raised, thus
forming what is commercially known as a zig-zag blind stitch.
Should it be desired to utilize the machine for making what is commercially
known as a "whip" stitch, the gears 17 and 18 and the cams 15 are removed,
and other gears and a cam substituted therefor. These gears are so related to
each other, that the gear on the main shaft makes three revolutions while the
gear in the cam shaft makes one revolution. The configuration of the new
cam is such that it raises and holds the carrier elevated while two stitches are
being made above the work, and then lowers it and holds it dropped while one
stitch is being formed. It is obvious that, by changing the relation of the gears
and the operation of the cams, any form of stitch desired may be produced.
The configuration of the guide 101 will of course, be adapted to the particular
work which the machine is intended to perform. It is also obvious that this
guide may be omitted altogether, if desired, and will be omitted when the machine
is being used, for instance, for "butting."
It is obvious that certain parts of the invention are capable of use independent
of the other parts, and it is to be understood that such independent use is contem-
plated. It is further understood that, while the invention is particularly adapted
for the specific uses which have been set forth in the earlier portion of this
specification, it is not to be considered as confined to those uses, as the invention
and the machine embodying the same are capable of use for many purposes.
It is, furthermore, obvious that many changes may be made in the specific
construction by which the invention is carried into effect, and such changes will
readily suggest themselves to skilled mechanics. The invention is, therefore, to
be regarded as generic in its nature, and is not to be limited to the particular
details of construction shown in the drawings, and described in the foregoing
specification.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, as communicated
to me from abroad, I declare that what I claim is:-
1. In a sewing machine, the combination with a needle which is either straight
or curved, and means for supporting and operating it, of a shaft, a looper, or
other cooperating stitch-forming device carried by the shaft, said shaft being
so located, either above or below the bed plate, that either a horizontal or a vertical
line cutting the path of movement of the needle at a right angle, and intersecting
the axis of the shaft. will form, with such axis, an acute angle, and a line parallel
to the line of reciprocation of the needle and intersecting the axis of the shaft,
will form with said axis a right angle, substantially as described.
2. In a sewing machine, the combination with a bed plate, of means for support-
ing the work at an angle to the bed plate, a straight needle, means for supporting
and operating it in a plane which is substantially parallel to the bed plate.
devices cooperating with the needle to form a stitch, and means for giving the
needle and cooperating stitch-forming devices a bodily movement at an angle to
the line of reciprocation of the needle, substantially as described.
3. In a sewing machine, the combination with a bed plate, of means for support-
ing the work at an angle to the bed plate, a needle either straight or curved,
and mechanism for supporting and operating it, a shaft, a looper, or other
cooperating stitch-forming devices carried by the shaft, said shaft being so
located that either a horizontal or a vertical line cutting the path of movement
of the needle at a right angle and intersecting the axis of the shaft, will form
with such axis an acute angle, and a line parallel to the line of reciprocation of
the needle and intersecting the axis of the shaft, will form with such axis a right
angle, substantially as described.

page_text: 4. In a stitch-forming mechanism, the combination with a needle, of a looper
or other stitch-forming device moving in a curved path, the path of the looper
being contained in a plane which cuts a horizontal plane containing the path of
movement of the needle at an acute angle, substantially as described.
5. In a stitch-forming mechanism, the combination with a needle, of an
oscillating looper or other stitch-forming device, the path of movement of the
looper lying in a plane which cuts a horizontal plane containing the path of
the needle at an acute angle, substantially as described.
6. In a stitch-forming mechanism, the combination with a needle reciprocating
in a substantially horizontal plane, and mounted to throw out its loop in a plane
which cuts the horizontal plane containing the path of the needle at an acute
angle, and a looper or other cooperating stitch forming device, substantially as
described.
7. In a stitch forming mechanism, the combination with a needle reciprocating
in a substantially horizontal plane and mounted to throw out its loop in a plane
which cuts the horizontal plane containing the path of the needle at an acute
angle, of an oscillating looper moving in a curved path, substantially as described.
8. In a stitch-forming mechanism, the combination with a straight needle,
of a looper or other cooperating stitch-forming device moving in a plane which
cuts a horizontal plane containing the path of the needle at an acute angle, and
means for giving intermittent bodily movement to the needle and looper additional
to that which is given them in the stitch-formng operation, substantially as
described.
9. In a stitch-forming mechanism, the combination with a straight needle
moving in a substantially horizontal line, of a looper cooperating therewith, and
moving in a plane which cuts a horizontal plane containing the path of movement
of the needle at an acute angle, and means for giving intermittent vertical move-
ment to both the needle and the looper, substantially as described.
10. In a stitch-forming mechanism, the combination with a frame or support,
of a carrier, means for giving the carrier intermittent movements, a needle bar
supported in the carrier, and reciprocating at an angle to the movement of the
carrier, a straight needle carried thereby, a cooperating stitch-forming device, a
shaft on which the cooperating stitch-forming device is mounted, said shaft stand-
ing at an angle to the movement of the carrier which is other than a right angle,
and means for operating the stitch-forming device and the needle to form a
stitch, substantially as described.
11. In a stitch-forming mechanism, the combination of a support having a
bearing therein, a reciprocating needle bar moving in said bearing, a bracket on
the needle bar to which the needle is connected, and a guide and slot connection
between the bracket and the bearing, whereby the needle carrying bracket is
guided in its movements, substantially as described.
12. In a stitch-forming mechanism, the combination with a carrier having a
supporting bearing, of a needle-bar working in the bearing and carrying a needle,
a shaft mounted on the carrier, said shaft carrying a cooperating stitch-forming
device, means for moving the carrier, and means for operating the needle bar
and shaft, substantially as described.
13. The combination with a reciprocating carrier, of a reciprocating rod working
in bearings therein. a looper shaft standing at an angle to the movement of the
carrier, which is other than a right angle, a slotted disc on said looper shaft, a
block in the slot, an adjustable connection between the reciprocating rod and the
block, and a needle bar carried by said carrier, substantially as described.
14. The combination with a frame or support, of a carrier mounted therein,
means for giving the carrier intermittent reciprocating movements, a needle bar
reciprocating in bearings in said carrier, a straight needle carried by said bar,
a looper shaft mounted in said carrier, a reciprocating rod worked in bearings in
the carrier, and connections between the rod and the looper shaft, substantially
as described.
:

page_text: 15. In a sewing machine, the combination with a reciprocating needle bar, of
a thread controlling plate having a right line movement parallel with the bar, a
thread guide from which the thread is led to the thread controlling plate, and
means for varying the distance between the guide and the thread controlling
plate, substantially as described.
16. In a sewing machine, the combination with a support, of a rotary stud
mounted therein, of a bar having a thread guiding eye therein mounted on the
stud and adjustable radially with respect to the axis of the stud, substantially
as described.
17. In a sewing machine, the combination with a carrier of a horizontally
reciprocating needle bar mounted therein, a needle supporting bracket mounted
on the bar, means for adjustably securing the needle to the bracket in a position
parallel to the bar, and so that a line drawn from any point in the needle, and
at right angles to its axis, will intersect the bar, and means for giving the carrier
a movement at an angle to the reciprocating movement of the bar, substantially
as described.
18. In a sewing machine, the combination with a bed plate, of a feeding
mechanism operating in a plane parallel to the bed plate, means for supporting
the work at an angle to the bed plate, a needle bar, devices thereon for supporting
the needle, means for reciprocating the bar across the line of feed, a carrier for
the bar, means for giving the carrier a movement at an angle to the movement
of the bar, and cooperating stitch-forming devices, substantially as described.
19. In a sewing machine for blind stitching, suitable stitch-forming mechanism,
a guide which is free to yield to allow for irregularities in the work, but which
does not move with the work,-over which the work is folded, and means for
holding the work in place against the guide, substantially as described.
20. In a sewing machine, the combination with the bed plate, of a curved or
other guide over which the work is folded, said guide being secured to the plate
and standing at an angle to the plane thereof, a stitch-forming mechanism acting
across the folded edge of the work, means for feeding the work along the guide,
and means for permitting the guide to be moved away from the stitch-forming
mechanism, in order that the work may be placed in position thereon, substantially
as described.
21. In a sewing machine, the combination with a guide over which the work is
folded, of a stitch-forming mechanism operating across the folded edge of the
work, means for feeding the work along the guide, means for permitting the
guide to have a movement toward and away from the stitch-forming mechanism,
and an adjustable stop for limiting the movement of the guide toward the
stitch-forming mechanism, substantially as described.
22. In a sewing machine, the combination of a guide over which the edge of
the work is folded, a stitch-forming mechanism operating across the line. af fold,
means for permitting the guide to move directly away and outwardly from the
stitch forming mechanism, and means for locking it in its outward position,
substantially as described.
23. In a sewing machine, the combination with a presser foot, of a bar by
which the foot is carried, means for operating the bar, to cause the foot to clamp
and release the work, and means for giving the bar and foot adjustment in a line
at right angles to their line of movement, in clamping the work, substantially
as described.
24. In a sewing machine, the combination with a feeding mechanism, of a
stitch-forming mechanism working across the line of feed, and a pair of adjustable
stops, one of which is located on each side of the line of travel of the stitch-
forming mechanism, and extending over the line of feed, substantially as described.
25. In a machine for sewing sweat leathers in hats, the combination with a
feeding mechanism, of a stitch-forming mechanism operating across the line of
feed. à presser foot for holding the work in position, having a guide through

page_text: which the sweat leather is fed to the hat, and a curved guide over which the brim
of the hat is folded, substantially as described.
26. In a sewing machine, the combination with a frame having an overhanging
arm, of guides in the outer end of the arm, a carrier located in the guides, a
needle bar carrying a straight needle supported in the carrier, a looper supported
in the carrier, a reciprocating rod for operating the looper, connections between
the rod and the looper, needle bar operating mechanism, including a link connec-
tion extending from the inner end of the needle bar, looper-operating mechanism,
including a link connection extending from the inner end of the looper-operating
bar, and devices for intermittently raising and lowering the carrier, substantially
as described.
27. In a sewing machine, the combination with a frame, of a carrier, guides in
which the carrier is mounted, a stitch-forming mechanism supported in the
carrier, a lever by which the carrier is raised and lowered, and means for changing
the fulcrum point of the lever, substantially as described.
28. In an organized machine for sewing sweat leathers in hats, the combination
with a guide over which the edge of the hat is folded, a feed for feeding the
work along the guide, a presser foot for holding the work in position, having a
guide therein for directing the sweat leather into proper position to be secured
to the hat, an adjustable stop lying across the line of feed to prevent the work
from rising, a guide in said stop for guiding a reed between the leather and the
hat, and a stitch-forming mechanism operating across the line of feed, sub-
stantially as described.
29. In a blind-stitch sewing machine, the manner of operating a looper sub-
stantially as hereinbefore described, and more especially when used in connection
with a straight needle arranged to throw out its loop on the side.
30. The take-up mechanism substantially as described and shown in the
accompanying drawings.
31. The feeding mechanism substantially as described and shown in the
accompanying drawings.
32. In combination with a stitch-forming mechanism substantially as described
in the foregoing specification, and shown in the accompanying drawings, a guide
which is arranged to yield to inequalities in the work, but which does not travel
with the work, the needle of the stitch-forming mechanism being arranged to
operate across the folded edge of the work, substantially as set forth.
Dated this 18th day of December 1899.