IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF PILE FABRICS, AND IN THE MACHINERY EMPLOYED THEREIN
Year: 1857

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to John Livesey, of New Lenton, in the County of
Nottingham, Lace Manufacturer, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN
THE MANUFACTURE OF PILE FABRICS, AND IN THE MACHINERY EMPLOYED
THEREIN."
Sealed the 23rd April 1858, and dated the 2nd December 1857.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said John Livesey at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
2nd December 1857.
I, JOHN LIVESEY, of New Lenton, in the County of Nottingham, Lace
Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF PILE FABRICS, AND IN THE MACHINERY
EMPLOYED THEREIN," to be as follows:-
My improvements refer to pile fabrics made on lace machinery, and
consists, first, in an arrangement of pile-forming instruments in combination
with a method of working the ground threads to cause the loops or tufts of
pile to fall to the right or left, as desired. I do this for the purpose of
exposing to sight more of the surface of the material forming the uncut loops,
and also for the purpose of enabling me to leave these loops when so laid to
the right or left uncut, whilst the loops not so acted upon, and therefore
standing erect, will be cut in passing through the cutting machine used for

page_text: such purpose.
I am thus enabled to form designs of uncut and cut pile
fabrics. This arrangement in a single tier machine also allows of weavings,
producing figures on portions of the fabric not covered with the terry or
cut pile.
To produce the effects before mentioned, I use a bar similar to that shewn
at Qin the Drawings annexed to the Specification of a Patent for England,
granted to me Sept. 18th, 1851, on which the pile-forming instruments are
fixed; these instruments are booked, so that when acted upon by the cams
they may be drawn out from the pile made on them, and leave terry loops.
Jacks are worked in connection with these instruments to bring the pile
threads through in front of the ground threads, so as to be taken hold of by
the instruments. The instruments rising with the front point bar form tho
loops or pile. To cause the loops or pile to fall to the right or to the left, I
use a cut of wheels, which acting on the ground threads produce this effect
on the pile threads.
Second, in arrangements whereby I make longer or shorter pile as desired,
for the purpose of being acted upon or not by the cutting machine before
mentioned. I use the instrument bar last referred to, worked upon by cams
to draw out the loops more or less, according to whether the pile be required
longer or shorter. The jacks are caused to bring forward the threads on the
short motion of the bars to form the short or uncut pile, and when the bar is
drawn farther out those threads only which are intended for the long pile must
be acted upon; or I uso two of such instrument bars, both acting in con-
junction with jacks, which direct the threads on one bar to form the short
loops, and on the other bar to form the long loops; one instrument bar is set
a little behind the other; or, instead of two instrument bars, one such bar
might be employed having two hooks thereon, one standing in advance of the
other.
Third, in a method of producing or forming a fabric composed of long and
short pile. This method consists in causing the threads to form the long
loops in such fabric to be lapped or passed twico instead of once over the pile-
forming instruments. When removed from these instruments these loops are
double or nearly so the length of the loops which have only been passed once
over the instruments, and consequently stand or project further from the
ground. The long loops only are cut, while the short loops remain uncut.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said John Livesey in the Great Seal Patent Office, on the
2nd June 1858.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JOHN
LIVESEY, of New Lenton, in the County of Nottingham, Lace Manufacturer,
send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Second day of December, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-seven, in the twenty-first year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the
said John Livesey, Her special licence that I, the said John Livesey, my
executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said John
Livesey, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the
term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel
Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE
OF PILE FABRICS, AND IN THE MACHINERY EMPLOYED THEREIN," upon the condition
(amongst others) that I, the said John Livesey, my executors or administrators,
by an instrument in writing under iny, or their, or one of their hands and seals,
should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and
in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed
in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and imme-
diately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said John Livesey, do hereby declare the
nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement thereof, reference being had to the Drawings annexed, that is
to say:
My Invention refers to pile fabrics made on lace machinery, and consists,
first, in an arrangement of pile-forming instruments in combination with a
method of working the ground threads to cause the loops or tufts of pile to
fall to the right or left as desired. I do this for the purpose of exposing to
sight more of the surface of the material forming the uncut loops, and also for
the purpose of enabling me to leave these loops when so laid to the right or
left uncut, whilst the loops not so acted upon, and therefore standing erect,
will be cut in passing through the cutting machine used for such purpose. I
am thus enabled to form designs of uncut and cut pile fabrics. This arrange-

page_text: ment in a single tier machine also allows of weavings producing figures on
portions of the fabric not covered with the terry or cut pile.
To produce the effects before mentioned, first, I use a bar similar to that
shown at Q' in the Drawings annexed to the Specification of Letters Patent
for England granted to me 18th September 1851, on which the pile-forming
instruments are fixed. These instruments for the purpose of my present
Juvention are hooked, so that when acted upon by the cams they draw out
from the pile made on them, and leave terry loops. Jacks are worked in
connection with these instruements to bring the pile threads through in front
of the ground threads, so as to be taken hold of by the instruemcats. The
instruments rising with the front point bar form the loops or pile. To cause
the loops or pile to fall to the right or to the left, I use a cut of wheels, which
acting on the ground threads produce this effect on the pile threads.
Figs. 1 & 2 show so much of a lace machine as is necessary to explain this
part of my Invention. A is the front, and B the back point bar attached to a
spindle bar by arms and levers in the usual way; C is a bar attached in the
same inanner as the point bars, thus making with the point bars three bars
c', c', shewn separately; Fig. 3 are hooks fixed on the bar C; D is one of a
row of jacks which bring the required pile threads in front of the ground
threads, and may also act to stop off tie threads; d' is one of a row of pilo
threads; f is a weaving or tie thread guide bar; g and h are ground thread
guide bars; i is a turnover thread guide bar to turn the pilo down to the
right; and is a turnover thread guide bar to turn the pile down to the left.
These turnover threads are used to turn down the pile to the right or left in
such portions of the fabric as this effect is desired to be produced on, and in
such parts as it is desired to leave the pile standing erect these threads may
be worked in with the ground threads.
I will now explain how the machine works to produce one row of pile in
four motions.
Suppose the carriages to be as shewn in Fig. 2 in the front, the front point
bar A drawn out, and the back point bar B pressed up under the work, the
hooks c', c', on the bar C in the position they take when raised up out of tho
pile last made and drawn out as far as the ends of the points on the bar B;
the bars f, g, h, and i on the dead stop, the bar k two gates to the right hand,
and the jack D and pile threads d' behind the ground threads. The carriages
must be put in the machine, so that the bobbin threads are brought out on the
left hand of the carriages.
First motion. The bars h and i must stand on the dead stop; the bars
and
must stand one gate to the right, and bar k must stand two gates to tho

page_text: right. The jacks D come forward, bringing the pile threads in front of the
ground threads, and on the right hand of the carriages, in a position to be
taken hold of by the hooks c', c'; the carriages are now moved to the centre,
while the front point bar descends and enters between the ground threads, the
hook bar also descends at the same time, the hooks entering between and on the
right hand of the pile threads; the hooks are now shogged a gate and a half
to the left hand, and the points of the hooks lowered between the points of the
front point bar A to hold the pile threads from escaping. The carriages now
move to the back, and at the same time the bars A and C rise to the top, the
higher part of the hooks c¹ passing between the points of the bar B, which
now draws out in the usual way, the jacks carrying the pile threads d'go back.
2nd motion. The bar C remains as it was; the bars h and k must stand
on the dead stop, the bars f, g, and i, must stand one gate to the right, the
carriages move to the front, and at the same time the back point bar shoggs
the bobbin threads to the right and takes up, and the front point bar draws
out in the usual way.
3rd motion. The bars fand i must stand two gates to the right, the bars
g, h, and k, must stand one gate to the right. The carriages are moved
to the back, and at the same time the front point bar descends, passes
through the threads, rises and presses up the work, the back point bar drawing
out in the usual way, and the hook bar C standing still.
4th motion. The bars f, g, h, and i, must stand on the dead stop, and the
bar & must stand two gates to the right; the carriages come forward, and the
back point bar descends and enters and shoggs the bobbin threads to the right
hand, and then cuters the warp threads, and as the carriages come into the
front the back point bar B ascends, and the front point bar A draws out in
the usual way, the hooks c', c', are raised up from between the back points,
and out of the last row of loops or pile made, then are drawn out in front of
the back points and shogged to the right hand about one and a half gates, so
that the hooks then stand immidiately over the front points, and ready to
enter on the right of the pile threads. The jacks may be used to stop off
the tie threads (as is done in machines jacking the threads) on the third or
fourth motion.
The alteration to produce one row of pile in three motions of the machine
instead of four motions, (with the exception of the motions of the guide bars,
which are given separately on the Drawing, Fig. 3) are as follows:-
1st motion. Same as motions in 1st motion of last example, except that
in the place where the carriages are therein stated to "move to the back"
they must here be made to return to the front, and for this purpose the front

page_text: catch bar must remain in the carriages to move them to the front, and the
back catch bar must rise up so as to miss the carriages.
2nd motion. The point and hook bars remain in the same place as left in
the first motion, the remainder of the movements are the same as those of
the third motion in the first plan.
3rd motion. The movements are the same as those of the fourth motion
in the first plan. In consequence of the motions required for obtaining the
pile, it will be seen that the cam shaft must revolve at half the ordinary
speed, that is to say, it must make one revolution to four of the crank shaft,
and all the cams except the hook bar cam must be so cut that in one revo-
lution of the cam shaft the motion of the bars will be repeated. This explana-
tion refers to the four motions of the machine to produce one row of pile.
If the three motion plan is worked, the shaft must revolve once to three
motions of the crank shaft, and the necessary form of the cams will at once
be understood from tho description of the motions already given.
Fig. 3 is a separate drawing of a lead of hooks shewn in the hook bar C.
the hooks are tapered at the bottom, so as to draw easily out of the pile, their
use being to lay hold of and secure the threads that form the loops, and then
dras out of the loops which are formed round these hooks, the substance
forming the hooks along with the distance they are placed in front of the
work determines the length of the loops formed, this distance being further
determined by the surface of the cams, or by stop screws on the ends of the bar.
I construct the hooks with a short bend as shewn for the purpose of expo-
sing to view as much of the fabric as possible during the time it is being
made, but the shape of the books may be varied when desired until the hooks
become nearly straight, and then worked at an angle, allowing them to lay
hold of, produce, and draw out of the pile as before described. From the
description given it will be understood that the hook may be further bent
until it partly assumes the form of and has the properties of a needle such as
is used in a warp machine. Fig. 4 shows this arrangement, and in this case
the shogging over the points would be dispensed with, it being only necessary
to shogg so far as to bring the needles into a suitable position to take hold of
the threads; there would also then require an arrangement for pressing down
the beard of the needles ; for this purpose I use a presser bar a', which is
fixed underneath the front point bar A, and brought into action by the point bar
being moved gradually when rising towards the beards, and afterwards caused
to press upon them just before the needles are drawn out of the pile. I do
not think it necessary to give further description of the variations that may be
made, having the same object and end in view, and producing the same effect;

page_text: the plan first described when this class of book is necessary would I believe
generally be found the best for ordinary work. In case of making slack work
with fine silk, in which a danger of the loops being drawn back would occur,
I employ in addition to the hooks c¹, c', described, another bar, Fig. 5, having"
a number of points m, m, upon it, which are inserted into the loops behind
the hooks c, c', when they are brought up. The action of this bar is as
follows:-Supposing one row of loops to be on the points m, m, and the suc-"
ceeding loops now brought up by the hooks c¹, c', and secured by the point
bars, then as these hooks stand outside of the points m, m, the second row of
loops will now be over both the hooks c', c', and points m, m; in this position
the points m, m, draw out of both rows of loops, and return behind the
hooks into the last row of loops formed, which being longer than the previous
loops, and still on the hooks c', c', allow of their so doing; the hooks c¹, c¹, are
now drawn out, the long loops remain over the points m, m, on the succeeding
loop being brought up; the threads must be so weighted as to draw the last
loops made close round the points m, m, which would be then ready for the
operation just described to be repeated.
To work with stump and bottom bars or other guide bars ordiuarily in use
in lace machinery instead of jacks, the hooks must be set at a little less
angle than the hooks c', c', described, and instead of being lowered in front of
the warp
threads they must enter immediately under the back points, and into
the espaces opened by them; the books must then be made to pass down be-
tween the warp threads, and so over the front points, the front points having at
the same time descended and entered the threads. Fig. 6 is a sectional view
of the points (the points being shewn on an enlarged scale), shewing the
position the pile thread takes when laid hold of by the hooks c¹; in this example
the pile thread at d is shewn on the left hand of the back points, and at d³
on the right hand of the front points, at d' it is shewn on the left hand of the
front points and in the position it takes when acted upon by the hooks being
shogged to the left. With the pile threads in the position shewn, and the
hooks in the position described above, they are now shogged about half a gate
to the left hand, and so lowered as to penetrate between the front points
when the pile threads will be secured by the hooks, and be in a position to be
brought forward, and ascending with the front point bars form terry loops in
manner before described.
The guide bars shewn in Figs. 1 and 2 are shewn with the guides soldered
in, but instead of this, perforated bars, stump bars, or other guide bars with
jacquards may be used to vary the motions of the threads as required by
the pattern.

page_text: Second, my Invention consists in arrangements of apparatus, whereby pile
threads may be selected to form as may be desired long or short loops on the
same motion. For this purpose long hooks c', Figs. 7 and 8, are soldered
into a bar c², which is fastened to the bar C, and smaller hooks are soldered
into another bar c', which is fixed on the bar c, but at the same time movable
to and from the face of the work; P is another bar, fastened to the bar c³,
but made to move lengthways upon it; the bar P (shown Fig. 8 in an
underside view of part of the bar C) has inclined planes p1 and p2 formed
on its edge, fitting into corresponding recesses in the bar c'; the inclined
planes p1 moving from left to right will cause the bar c to be moved forwards
towards the face of the work, on the bar P moving from right to left the
opposite action takes place by the operation of the inclined planes p 2. Theso
motions are given to the bar P by inclined planes on cach side of the machine.
As the pile threads will be loose at the back when passing from one pattern
to another, and as in case of long distances these loose threads may be incon-
venient, it is desirable to make a loop occasionally to avoid this; and if such
loop is made longer than the loops that are to remain uncut, they will on
passing through the cutting machine be cut, and the loose threads may then
be easily drawn out. The same plan may be adopted for removing the loose
threads of those portions of the patterns that are made with a short pile, and
are therefore to remain uncut. In this case the first and last loop must be
made longer than the part that is to remain uncut, when the same effect as
before mentioned will be produced. By using the hooks operating as described
in reference to Figure 6, any of the threads used in the weavings when working
with a single tier machine as herein-before referred to, may be treated in a
similar manner to that last mentioned, by forming the thread into a long loop
previous to commencing and leaving off. The figures being worked, the loose
threads will then after cutting be removed, as before described.
The working of the double books will be as follows:-In case a short pile
was desired, the jacks aro worked so as only to bring the pile threads into
the position taken by the dotted lines d², Figure 1, and when a longer loop
is desired, the jacks bring the pile threads into the position shewn, d', Figure 1.
The inclined plane is made to act on the short hooks as before described, so
that when the hooks on the double hook bar Center the threads in the position
shewn in Figure 1, the short books aro drawn back from the work, and then
if the pile thread is brought out as shown at d', the short hooks will take hold
of the thread, and in working up the inclined plane will cause the short hooks
to move towards the work sufficiently to make the loop the length required;
and when the pile thread is only brought out to the position d³, the longer

page_text: hooks will take hold of it, and thus a shorter pile or loop will be made; the
jacks are worked so as to bring the threads into one or other of the positions,
then by using two hooks and needles in the jacquard to each jack, a longer string
being attached to one hook than to the other. Figure 9 is a cut of wheels to
form two rows of pile to each carriage. In this cut of wheels, 0 means dead
stop; 1 means one gate to the right; 2 means two gates to the right, both
in Figure 9 and Figure 3.
Third, my Invention consists in a method of producing or forming a fabric
composed of long and short pile. This method consists in causing the threads
to form the long loops in such fabric to be lapped or passed twice, instead of
once, over the pile-forming instruments; the other threads employed to make
the fabric being made to stand still during the lapping motions. When
removed from these instruments these loops are double, or nearly so, the length
of the loops which have only been passed once over the instruments, and con-
sequently stand or project further from the ground. The long loops only are
cut while the short loops remain uncut. I employ to produce long and
short pile under this head of my Invention the pile-forming instrument
described in the Specification of Letters Patent for England, granted to me
the 18th September 1851, and shewn at 2, 3, and 3*, in the Drawings there-
uuto annexed.
And having now described the nature of iny said Invention, and in what
manner the same is to be performed, I declare that I claim,―
First, the particular arrangement of hooks and parts worked in connection
therewith, for the purpose of producing pile fabrics herein-before described
and shewn in the Drawings annexed, whereby among other effects two or
more rows of pile may be produced to one carriage thread.
Second, the employment in the manufacture of pile fabrics of the par-
ticular description of hooked instruments worked in combination with the
ordinary point bars, which hooked instruments are made to shog and hold the
threads until the loop is formed on them, and which then withdraw from and
leave the loop.
Third, the manufacture of pile fabrics with long and short loops by the
means and in manner herein-before described and represented in the Draw-
ings hereunto annexed.
Fourth, the employment in the manufacture of pile fabrics of the pile-
forming instrument described in the Specification of Letters Patent, granted
to me, for England, the 18th day of September 1851, and represented at
Figures 2, 3, and 3*, of the Drawings thereunto annexed, for the purpose of

page_text: lapping the threads twice round each pile-forming instrument in manner and
for the purposes hercin-before described.
And, fifth, the manufacturo of pile fabrics in which the pile is thrown to
the right and the left for the purposes herein-before described.
In witness whereof, I, the said John Livesey, have hereunto set my hand
and seal, this Second day of June, One thousand eight hundred and
fifty-eight.
JOHN LIVESEY. (L.S.)