IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING AND CHANNELLING MACHINERY FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES
Year: 1876

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Daniel Mills, of Brooklyn, New York, United States of
America, now of Aston, Birmingham, in the County of Warwick, Mechanical
Engineer, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING AND CHANNELLING
MACHINERY FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES."
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Daniel Mills at the Office of
the Commissioners of Patents on the 17th March 1876.
DANIEL MILLS, of Brooklyn, New York, United States of America, now of Aston,
Birmingham, in the County of Warwick, Mechanical Engineer. "IMPROVEMENTS IN
SEWING AND CHANNELLING MACHINERY FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND
SHOES."
My said Invention relates first to improvements in the machinery for which
former Letters Patent have been granted to me, and more especially in that
described in the Specification of Letters Patent dated December 9th, 1875, No. 4279,
and which has a curved reciprocating needle working on an axis and in combination
with a looper, feed dog, and other devices, actuated by cams, the whole of the
mechanism being supported upon a strong cast iron head. The said cams and other
parts of the machine are fully described in the said former Specification and need
no description herein, excepting with regard to such modifications thereof as are
necessitated by my present improvements.
The first of any said improvements consist in a novel contrivance for varying the
length of the needle's stroke or motion, so that the machine may be adapted to sew or
stitch work of different thicknesses. For this purpose 1 combine with the vibrating
needle stock or holder a lever, by which the said stock receives its motion from the
cam instead of being actuated directly by the said cam, as heretofore. The said lever
has its fulcrum at the back of the machine head and extends therefrom to the cam,
its free end being provided with a roller fitted to run in the cam groove. The
connection of the needle stock or holder with the said lever is effected by means of
a slotted arm on the stock and an adjustable pivoted arm on the lever. This arm
is pivoted to a vertical extension on the lever between its fulcrum and free end.
The said pivoted arm has at one end a block which projects into the slot in the

page_text: needle stock and slides freely therein. And the other end of the said pivoted arm
is connected to the lever near its fulcrum by a small screw bolt or pin, which
passes through a slot in the said lever. And by adjusting this bolt or pin in the
said slot the required variation of the stroke or movement of the needle is obtained.
It must be borne in mind that the variation in the length of the needle's motion
must be entirely at the return or backward stroke thereof, as the termination of its
forward stroke is always positive, or at the same point, whatever may be the thick-
ness of the work.
With the above described mechanism this result can only be accurately obtained
by a careful adjustment, relatively to each other, of the angle of the slot of the
needle stock, the position of the fulcrum of the lever, the length of the said lever,
and the length and position of the pivoted arm. Therefore the slotted arm of the
needle stock is formed thereon at such an angle and the lever and its adjustable
pivoted arm are so arranged, in combination with the said slotted arm, that the
adjustment of the said pivoted arm, to either extreme of its variation, has no effect
upon the position of the needle stock when the needle is in its most forward
position, but will increase or diminish the length of the return stroke or movement
of the needle to any extent within the limits of the adjustment of the said vibrating
arm.
In the machine described in my said former Specification the needle shield or
needle support lever is operated by a separate cam, but according to my present
Invention I operate the said lever directly from the needle stock, and thereby insure
the proper co-operation of the needle shield or support with the needle in all the
variations of the stroke or movement of the latter. The connection between the
said lever and the needle stock is effected by means of a spring which is attached
to the extremity of the said lever and to a small stud or arm on the needle stock.
This spring acts to cause the needle shield to remain close to the work until a
projection on the needle stock stops the lever, and then both parts move back
together and remain in this relative position until the needle strikes the work.
I also modify the method of operating the cast-off described in the said former
Specification, as follows:-It is very important that the relation of the cast-off to
the needle should not be affected by the variation of the needle's motion, and also
that it shall not be possible to disturb the proper relation of the said needle and
cast-off to each other. If these two parts do not maintain their proper relative
positions throughout their entire movement the loop last formed will be caught by
the barb of the needle, and there being then two loops in the barb the thread will
be broken. Therefore I have devised the following means for ensuring the proper
working of the cast-off with the needle whatever may be the thickness of the work,
that is to say, I connect the cast-off lever with the needle stock and with a cam.
On the same cam disc that operates the needle in such a manner that the cast-off
is partly controlled by the needle stock and partly by the said cam, I form on the
cast-off lever or carrier a small lug or tooth, and I provide the needle stock with a
pin or stud in the proper position to act on the said tooth at the moment the point
of the cast-off covers the barb of the needle as the latter is leaving the work.
Then the needle and cast-off move back together to the full extent of the return
stroke of the needle stock, when the aforesaid cam comes in contact with a roller
near the fulcrum or axis of the cast-off lever and moves the same still farther back,
thereby uncovering the barb of the needle and permitting the loop to free itself
from the barb. Then the needle and cast-off continuing in the same relative
position move forward until the point of the cast-off strikes the edge of the work,
the cam then releases the cast-off, the needle at the same time passing through the
work, and the same operations are repeated in the successive strokes of the said
needle. It will be obvious that the return movement of the cast-off will be
variable, as it is controlled entirely by the cam, and therefor its distance must be
sufficient to ensure the uncovering of the needle's barb in the greatest extent of the
variation of the needle's movement.

page_text: employ, in
The sewing of heavy uppers and thick welts to a soft insole is difficult, as the
sewing thread is liable to cut through the substance left between the inside and
outside channels. To obviate this difficulty, I feed a thick thread or cord in and
along the inside channel, in combination with the thread of the ordinary loop
stitch, in such a manner that the cord is woven under and over the sewing thread
alternately throughout the stitching. To accomplish this object
addition to the ordinary looper of the machine, a second or cord looper; the inner
end of the said cord looper is provided with a roller that works in a cam groove in
the face of a disc. The motion of the said disc is derived from suitable gear wheels
from a pinion on the main shaft of the machine. The proportions of these gear
wheels are such that the disc makes but one revolution to two revolutions of the
machine. Therefore the cord end of the said second looper is depressed to a
position below the point of the needle during one revolution, and at the next
revolution it is elevated above the point of the needle, thereby so interweaving the
cord and the sewing thread as to produce the stitch above described, that is to
say, the aforesaid cord passes under and over the sewing thread.
Another of these improvements relates to the apparatus or mechanism for forming
in the soles of boots and shoes the channels for the seam to lie in, and consists in
the peculiar construction of a lever, upon which is mounted the edge gauge employed
in this operation. The objects of this improvement are to facilitate the adjustinent
of the said edge gauge and to regulate the variable adjustment when it is desired
to channel wider or farther in at any part of the sole than at the other parts
thereof.
In ordinary channelling machines top and bottom feed wheel journals are mounted
on the same centre pin. The edge gauge lever has its fulcrum on an arm extending
from the bottom feed wheel journal; the rear end of said edge gauge lever is
provided with a slotted arm which extends to the fulcrum pin of the feed wheel
journals; the said fulcrum pin is left protruding from the side of the frame, and is
provided with a square slide block which is fitted to work freely in the slot, and
which extends across the end of the said edge gauge lever; on each end of said
slot there is a set screw and lock nut for adjusting the said lever in relation to the
said centre pin. On the outer end of the said edge gauge lever there is a strong
spring, whose function is to keep the point of the lower adjusting set screw against
the block on the pin during the time the sole is being channelled. The point of
the upper set screw having previously been regulated to the extra width desired, in
any part of the channelling, when the part of the sole that is to be channelled
wider than the other part arrives under the feed wheels, the edge gauge lever
is depressed with the foot, by means of a rod and treadle, until the point of the said
upper set screw touches the block upon the pin and is held there until it is desired
to resume the regular channel; when the foot is taken from the rod the edge gauge
lever resumes its original position by the action of the spring bringing the bottom
set screw again into comtact with the said block on the pin.
The edge gauge is secured to its lever by means of a screw and is fitted to the
bottom feed wheel, so that the latter turns in close proximity thereto. In course of
time the bottoin feed wheel wears smaller, leaving an open space between the edge
gauge and the feed wheel; this space is detrimental to the proper working of the
imachine. I have therefore provided a set screw to depress the edge gauge when
required, so that no space through which the edge of the sole can pass will exist.
Another part of my Invention relates to a small and convenient hand channelling
apparatus for forming the channels in the soles of boots and shoes when the sole is
placed upon the welt ready for stitching. The channel knife is armnged in
combination with a small gauge roller fitted to turn upon a pin or stud at the
inner side of the said knife. The latter is adjustable, with regard to the roller, so
that the said knife can be set to cut channels of any required depth. At the outer
side of the said knife is a rod or stem which carries at its lower end a thin gauge
roller or disc beviled or sharpened on its periphery to run in the angular space

page_text: between the outer portion of the upper end and the under portion of the welt
This disc or roller is mounted on a small plate which is adjustable on the said rod
or stem, so that the lateral position of the said roller, with regard to the channel
knife may be adjusted to vary the distance of the channel from the welt seam.
The said rod or stem passes up through a handle or holder, whereby the said
apparatus is manipulated, and is mounted by a spiral spring which tends to keep
the first named roller down upon the sole whatever may be the thickness of the
latter.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed
by the said Daniel Mills in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 26th July
1876.
DANIEL MILLS, of Brooklyn, New York, United States of America, now of Aston,
Birmingham, in the County of Warwick, Mechanical Engineer. "IMPROVEMENTS IN
SEWING AND CHANNELLING MACHINERY FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND
SHOES."
My said Invention relates first, to improvements in the machinery for which
former Letters Patent have been granted to me and more especially that described
in the Specification of Letters Patent, dated December 9th, A.D. 1875, No. 4279,
and which has a curved reciprocating needle working on an axis and in combina-
tion with a looper feed dog and other devices actuated by cams, the whole of the
mechanism being supported upon a strong cast-iron head of peculiar construction.
The said cams and various other parts, as described in the said Specification, are
made use of in my present Invention with such modifications thereof as are neces-
sitated by the improvements herein specified.
One of my said improvements consist in a novel contrivance for varying the
length of the needle's stroke or motion, so that the machine may be adapted to
sew or stitch materials of different thicknesses; other improvements are herein-after
specified, and this part of my Invention is illustrated in Figures 1 to 8 of the
Drawing.
Figure 1 is an elevation of one side of a machine constructed according to the
.said Invention; Figure 2 is an elevation of the opposite side of the said inachine;
Figure 3 is a front elevation of the same.
Figure 4 is an inside elevation of one-half or side of the said machine.
Figures 5, 6, 7, 8, shew detached portions of the mechanisin herein-after described.
Figure 9 is a side elevation, and Figure 10 is a front elevation of a modification
of the said machine.
A is the head or frame of the said machine made in two parts A1, A2, and
secured together by bolts a, b, c, d is the needle; e is the needle shield; f is the
cast-off; g is the back gauge; h is the feed dog; i is the looper; k is the main
or cam shaft.
For the purpose above stated I combine with the vibrating needle stock or
holder da lever de, by which the said stock receives its motion from the cam
instead of being actuated directly by the said cam as heretofore. The said lever
has its fulcrum d³ to the rear of the machine head and extends forward therefrom
to the cam; its free end being provided with a roller d* fitted to run in the cam
groove do, Figure 5. The connection of the needle stock or holder d¹ with the
said lever d² is effected by means of a slotted arm d on the stock, and an adjustable
pivoted arm do on the lever d²; this arm de is pivoted to a vertical extension d'
on the lever between its fulcrum and free end. The said pivoted arm has at
one end a block which projects into the slot d³ in the arm of the needle stock, and
slides freely therein, and the other end of the said pivoted arm is connected to the
lever near its fulcrum by a small screw bolt or pin d, which passes through

page_text: a vertical slot in the said lever, and by adjusting this bolt or pin in the said slot
the required variation of the stroke or movement of the needle is obtained, as will
be readily understood from the following description :-
It must be borne in mind that the variation in the length of the needle's motion
must be entirely at the return or backward stroke thereof, as the termination of
its forward stroke is always "positive," or at the same point whatever may be the
thickness of the materials. With the above described mechanism, which is most
clearly shewn in Figure 4, this result can only be accurately obtained by a careful
adjustment relatively to each other of the angle of the slot ³ of the needle stock d',
the position of the fulcrum ³ of the lever d², the length of the said lever, and the
length and position of the pivoted arm . Therefore the slotted arın d³ of the needle
stock is formed at such an angle, and the lever d² and its adjustable pivoted arm
are so arranged in combination with the said slotted arın that the adjustinent of the
said pivoted arm to either extremity of its variation, that is to say, to give
either the longest or shortest stroke of the needle has no effect upon the position
of the needle stock when the needle is in its most forward position, but by such
adjustment the length of the return stroke or movement of the needle may be
increased or diminished to any extent within the limits of the adjustment of the
said vibrating arm.
In the machine described in my former Specification the needle shield or
needle support lever is operated by a separate cam, but according to my present
Invention I operate the snid lever directly from the needle stock d', and thereby
insure the proper co-operation of the needle shield or support with the needle in all
the variations of the stroke or movement of the latter. The connection between the
needle shield lever e¹, and the needle stock d' is effected by means of a spring e,
which is attached to the extremity of the said lever, and to a sinall stud or arm e³
on the needle stock d. This spring acts to cause the needle shield to remain close
to the work until a projection on the needle stock stops the lever e¹, and then
both the needles, stock, and needle shield move back together, and remain in this
relative position until the needle strikes the work, these movements being repeated
at every stitch.
I also modify the method of operating the cast-off described in the said former
Specification as follows:-It is very important that the relation of the cast-off to
the needle should not be affected by the variation of the needle's motion, and also
that it shall not be possible to disturb the proper relation of the said needle and
cast-off to each other. If these two parts do not maintain their proper relative
positions throughout their entire movement the loop last formed will be caught
by the barb of the needle, and their being then two loops in the barb the thread
will be broken. Therefore I have devised the following means for ensuring the
proper working of the cast-off with the needle whatever may be the thickness of
the work, that is to say, I connect the cast-off lever f¹ with the needle stock d
and arranged it in combination with a cam f2 on the same cam disc that operates
the needle, in such a manner that the cast-off f is partly controlled by the needle
stock and partly by the said cam; I form on the cast-off lever or carrier fl a
small lug or tooth f³, and I provide the needle stock with a pin or stud in the
proper position to act on the said tooth at the moment the point of the cast-off f
covers the barb of the needle as the latter is leaving the work. Then the
needle d and cast-off/nove back together to the full extent of the return stroke of
the needle stock d, when the aforesaid cam f2 comes in contact with a roller f* near
the fulcrum or axis of the cast-off lever f1 and moves the same still farther back,
thereby uncovering the barb of the needle, as shewn in Figure 4, and permitting
the loop to free itself from the barb. Then the needle and cast-off continuing in
the same relative position move forward until the point of the cast-off f strikes the
edge of the work; the cam f2 then releases the cast-off f, the needle at the same
time passing through the work, and the same operations are repeated in the succes-
sive strokes of the said needle. It will be obvious that the return movement of

page_text: the cast-off will be invariable as it is controlled entirely by the cam f', and
therefore its distance must be sufficient to ensure the uncovering of the needle's
barb in the greatest variation of the needle's movement.
Figures 5 and 6 shews the back gauge, the feed dog, and looper, and cams for
operating them.
Figures 7 and 8 illustrate the mechanism for locking the back gauge. These
parts being the same, or substantially the same, as described in my said former
Specification, No. 4279, need no particular description here.
The sewing of heavy uppers and thick welts to a soft insole is a difficult operation
in a machine as the sewing thread is liable to cut through the substance left between
the inside and outsole channels; to obviate this difficulty I feed a thick thread or
cord in and along the inside channel in combination with the thread of the ordinary
loop stitch in such a manner that the cord is woven under and over the sewing
thread alternately throughout the stitching. To accomplish this object I employ
the device illustrated in Figures 9 and 10, that is to say, in addition to the ordinary
looper i of the machine I provide a second or cord looper ; the inner end of the
said cord looper is provided with a roller that works in a cam groove in the face
of a disc m; the motion of the said disc is derived through the gear wheel and pinion
n, o, or other suitable gearing from the main shaft of the machine. The pro-
portions of the said gear wheel and pinion are such that the disc m makes but one
revolution to two revolutions of the machine, therefore the cord end of the said
second looper is depressed to a position below the point of the needle during one
revolution, and at the next revolution it is elevated above the point of the needle,
thereby so interweaving the cord and the sewing thread as to produce the stitch
above described, that is to say, the aforesaid cord passes under and over the sewing
thread.
Another of these improvements relates to apparatus or mechanism for forming in
the soles of boots and shoes the channels for the thread to lie in, and consists in
the peculiar construction of lever upon which is mounted the edge gauge employed
in this operation; the objects of this improvement are to faciliate the adjustment of
the said edge gauge, and to regulate the variable adjustment of the same, when it
is desired to make the channel wider, or farther in at any part of the sole than at
the other parts thereof. This part of my Invention is illustrated in Figure 11,
which is a side elevation of a channelling machine, the parts of whose mechanism
are mounted on a strong frame or headstock B, and which has top and bottom
feed wheel journals q, q', mounted on a centre pin q², as in ordinary channelling
machines The edge gauge lever has its fulcrum on an arm extending from the
bottom feed wheel journal q¹. The rear end of this edge gauge lever is provided
with a slotted arm 3, which extends to the said centre or fulcrum pin q² of the feed
wheel journal. The said centre or fulcrum pin is left protruding from the side of the
frame, and is provided with a square side block q³, which is fitted to work freely
in the slot of the said arm and extends across the end of the said edge gauge lever.
At the ends of said slot there are set screws 8, 81, provided with lock nuts for
adjusting the said lever in relation to the centre pin q.
The end of the said edge gauge lever r has a strong spring whose function is
to keep the point of the lower adjusting set screw 8 against the block on the
pin q during the time the sole of a boot or shoe is being channelled. The point of
the upper set screws having previously. been regulated to the greatest width
desired at any part of the channelling, when the part of the sole that is to be
channelled wider than the other part, arrives under the feed wheels t, t¹, the edge
gauge lever is depressed with the foot by means of a treadle connected to the
rod u until the point of the said upper set screw s touches the block upon the pin q²
and is held in this position until it is desired to resume the regular channel; then
the foot is taken from the rod, the edge gauge lever is returned to its original
position by the action of the spring, bringing the bottom set screw s¹ again into
_contact with the said block on the pin q³.

page_text: The edge gauge is secured to its lever by means of a screw, and is so fitted
to the bottom feed wheel that the latter turns in close proximity to the said gauge.
In course of time the size of the bottom feed wheel is diminished by wear, leaving
an open space between the edge gauge and the feed wheel; the existence of this
space is detrimental to the proper working of the machine, have, therefore, pro-
vided a set screw to depress the edge gauge when required, so that no space shall
exist through which the edge of the sole can pass. The other parts of this machine
are or may be the same as those of an ordinary channelling machine, and as the
operation of these machines is well understood by those skilled in the art to which
my Invention appertains I need not herein particularly describe the same.
Another part of my Invention relates to a small and convenient hand channelling
apparatus for forming the channels in the soles of boots and shoes when the sole is
placed upon the welt ready for stitching. This apparatus is clearly shown in
Figures 12 and 13, which are elevations at right angles to each other. The channel
knife vis arranged in combination with a small gauge roller v¹ fitted to turn upon
a pin or stud at the inner side of the said knife. The knife vis adjustable with
regard to the roller so that the said knife can be set to cut channels at any required
depth. At the outer side of the said knife is a rod or stem w, which carries at its
lower end a thin gauge roller or disc w¹, beviled or sharpened on its periphery to
run in the angular space between the upper and outer portion of the welt of a boot
or shoe. This disc or roller w¹ is mounted on a small plate w³, which is adjustable
on the rod or stem w, so that the lateral position of the said roller with regard to
the channel knife v may be adjusted to vary the distance of the channel from the
welt seam. The said rod or stem w passes up through a handle or holder x, and is
surrounded by a spiral spring, which when the apparatus is in use tends to keep the
first named roller v¹ down upon the sole whatever may be the thickness of the
latter.
In using this apparatus it is held and manipulated by the handle or holder x.
Having thus fully described my said Invention, and the manner of performing
the same,
I wish it understood that I claim,-
First. The apparatus for varying the length or distance of the needle's stroke or
motion, so that one machine may be adapted to materials or work of different
thicknesses as above set forth.
Second. The combination and connection of the needle shield or needle support
lever with the needle stock and cam in such a manner that the lever is operated
directly by or from the said needle stock, and without the intervention or employ-
ment of a separate cam as above set forth, and for the purposes specified.
Third. The means for insuring the proper action of the cast-off in combination
with the needle upon materials or work of any thickness as above set forth.
Fourth. In a sewing machine for the manufacture of boots and shoes, the
apparatus for varying the length of the needle's stroke or motion, the means for
operating the needle shield lever directly from the needle stock, and the means for
insuring the proper action of the cast-off with the needle on materials or work of
any thickness arranged and operating in combination with the other parts of the
machine, as above set forth, and for the purposes specified.
Fifth. Providing the said machine or any other sewing machine of substantially
the same construction with auxiliary looping mechanism as shewn in Figures 9 and
10 of the Drawings, and as above set forth, for the purposes specified.
Sixth. In a channelling machine of the class represented in Figure 11 the
peculiarly constructed lever carrying the edge gange arranged and operating in
combination with the other parts of the said machine, as above set forth, and for
the purposes specified.
Seventh. The device for adjusting the edge gauge in relation to the lower feed
wheel of the said channelling machine, as above set forth, and for the purpose
crocified

page_text: Eighth. The hand channelling apparatus shown in Figures 12 and 13 of the
Drawings, with the channel knife, gauge rollers, and other parts of the said
apparatus constructed, combined, and operating, as above set forth.
In witness whereof, I, the said Daniel Mills, have hereunto set my hand and
seal, this Twenty-ninth day of April, in the year of our Lord One thousand
eight hundred and seventy-six.
DANIEL MILLS. (L.S.)