IMPROVED APPARATUS FOR MEASURING AND DRAFTING FOR WEARING APPAREL."
Year: 1873

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Enoch Armitage, of Liverpool, in the County
of Lancaster, Merchant Tailor, for the Invention of "IMPROVED
APPARATUS FOR MEASURING AND DRAFTING FOR WEARING APPAREL."
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Enoch Armitage at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on
the 9th August 1878.
I, ENOOH ARMITAGE, of Liverpool, in the County of Lancaster,
Merchant Tailor, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention
for "IMPROVED APPARATUS FOR MEASURING AND DRAFTING FOR WEARING APPAREL,"
to be as follows :-
The object of this Invention is to facilitate the operations of measuring
or taking the shape of the human figure, and drafting the same on cloth
or other material for wearing apparel, and consists essentially of a net-
work preferably constructed of steel bands, and capable of assuming the
shape of the desired garment. The said network is held together, and
the position of the bands adjusted in relation to each other by means of

page_text: clips and set screws or their equivalents. At the same time each band
is formed of two strips of steel connected by clips and set screws, so that
it can be lengthened or shortened.
The bands of the network which form the outside framework
are attached to the rest of the bands by hinges or their mechanical
equivalents. This arrangement allows the apparatus above described
to be laid flat, and at the same time be capable of assuming a curved
form.
In practice a measuring and drafting apparatus constructed as above
described is caused to encircle that part of the human figure for which a
garment is to be made, and is then adjusted until the required fit is
obtained, and the framework bands have assumed the outline of tho
garment required. The apparatus is now removed, and laid flat upon
the cloth or material on which the shape of the garment is to be
drafted. A line on the cloth under the framework bands gives the :
exact size and outline required. The seams can be put. in as
desired.
=
Instead of applying the apparatus direct to the human figure it may
be adjusted from measurements takon in the usual manner, and then
laid on the material. When used in this manner the framework bands.
need not be hinged.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Enoch Armitage in the Great Seal Patent Office
on the 9th February 1874.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, ENOCH
ARMITAGE, of Liverpool, in the County of Lancaster, Merchant Tailor,
send greeting.
2
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Ninth day of August, in the
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-three, in g
the thirty-seventh year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and
successors, give and grant unto me, the said Enoch Armitage,
Her special licence that I, the said Enoch Armitage, my
executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said

page_text: Enoch Armitage, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should
at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and
at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and
lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United
Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of
Man, an Invention for "IMPROVED APPARATUS FOR MEASURING AND DRAFTING
FOR WEARING APPAREL," upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the
said Enoch Armitage, my executors or administrators, by an instrument
in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should
particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention,
and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the
same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar
months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Enoch Armitage, do hereby
3 declare the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement, reference being had to the Sheet
of Drawings hereunto appended (that is to say):
The object of this Invention is to facilitate the operations of measuring
or taking the shape of the human figure, and drafting the same on cloth
or other material for wearing apparel. The apparatus consists of a net-
work of bands, preferably steel, capable of being made to fit to the
human figure, and assume the shape of the desired garment. The said
network is held together, and the position of the bands adjusted with
relation to each other by means of set screws or their equivalents. Each
band is formed of two strips of steel connected by clips and set screws,
so that it can be lengthened or shortened.
If desired part only of the bands are so constructed, the others being
in a single piece.

page_text: The being enabled to take an exact measure of any person, and after-
wards lay down the apparatus flat on the cloth from which a garment is
to be cut is of the essence and the specially distinguishing feature of my
Invention.
A measuring and drafting apparatus constructed under my Invention
is when being used caused to encircle that part of the human figure for
which a garment is to be made; it (the apparatus) is then adjusted until
the required fit is obtained, and the outside bands have assumed the
outline of the required garment. The apparatus on being removed
is laid flat upon the cloth or material on which the shape of the 1
garment is to be drafted. A line on the cloth under the outside bands
gives the exact size and outline required. The seams can be put in as
desired.
• Instead of applying the apparatus direct to the human figure it may
be adjusted from measurements taken in the usual manner, and then 1
laid flat on the material. When used in this manner the outside bands
need not be hinged, but they must be secured at right angles to the net-
work bands.
+ :
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.
; Fig. 1 shows apparatus designed for measuring and drafting half a
coat or vest without sleeves, similar apparatus for drafting the other
half
can if desired-be attached by the hinges a. This however is not
usually necessary. b are the network bands; c are the outside bands
hinged to b; d are the outside bands which are secured at right angles
to b, and do not require to be hinged; e are the set screws; fare the clips
attached to one end of one of the double steel bands, and sliding along
the other band; 9 is a centre pin, around which the band 6' works.
This facilitates adjustment at the shoulders. The dotted lines show the
position the hinged outside bands might assume after removal from the
human figure. When laid on the material a line along c and d gives
the desired shape and outline of the garment.
Figs. 2 and 3 show apparatus designed for measuring and drafting a
sleeve. In these views the parts corresponding to those in Fig. 1 are
distinguished by the same letters.
Fig. 4 shows apparatus designed for measuring and drafting one leg
and half the body portion of a pair of trousers. In this view the corre-
sponding parts to Fig. 1 are distinguished by the same letters.

page_text: Having now described the nature of my said Invention, and parti-
cularized the same, so that others will be enabled to carry my Invention
into practice, I claim, the improved apparatus herein described, used,
and applied, substantially as set forth.
In witness whereof, I, the said Enoch Armitage, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, the Fifth day of February, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-four.
In the presence of
J. JOHNSON,
Clerk to J. T. King,
Solicitor of Patents,
Liverpool.
ENOCH ARMITAGE. (L.S.)