CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN WEAVING HAT PLUSH AND OTHER TEXTILE FABRICS
Year: 1852

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Richard IIusband, of Manchester, in the County
of Lancaster, Hat Manufacturer, for the Invention of " CERTAIN
"
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Richard Husband
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition,
on the 9th October 1852.
I, RICHARD HUSBAND, of Manchester, in the County of Lancaster,
Hat Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention
for CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN WEAVING HAT PLUSH AND OTHER TEXTILE
FABRICS" to be as follows:-
My Invention relates principally to weaving hat plush, and such
other textile fabrics as are generally cut on the "bias" or "cross," that
is, diagonally across the piece of goods, when required for use. My In-
vention consists in introducing the weft or shoot threads of such fabrics
in a diagonal direction, either at an angle of 45° to the warp threads of
the sail fabrics, or at any other angle to the said warp threads (except a
right angle). as may be found most suitable to the nature of the fabric
to be produced, and the purpose to which it is to be hereafter applied.
The object of this Invention is accomplished by so arranging the
loom that by placing the "lathe" or "slay" of the loom and the
"healds" or "harness" at the required angle the weft or shoot threads
are suitably woven in.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Richard Husband in the Great Seal Patent
Office, on the 8th April 1858.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I,
RICHARD HUSBAND, of Manchester, in the County of Lancaster, Hat
Manufacturer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Ninth day of October, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-two, in the sixteenth
year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and
grant unto me, the said Richard Husband, Her especial license that I,
the said Richard Husband, my executors, administrators, and assigns,
or such others as I, the said Richard Husband, my executors, adminis-
trators, and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others,
from time to time and at all times thereafter during the term therein
expressed, should and lawfully might make. use, exercise, and vend,
within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Chan-
nel Islands, and Isle of Man, my Invention of "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS
IN WEAVING HAT PLUSH AND OTHER TEXTILE FABRICS," upon the condition
(amongst others) that I. the said Richard Husband, by an instrument
in writing under my hand and scal, should particularly describe and
ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the
same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the
Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and imme-
diately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that 1, the said Richard Husband, do hereby
declare the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same
is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement (that is to say):
My Invention relates principally to weaving hat plush and such other
textile fabrics as are generally cut on the "bias" or "cross," that
is, in a diagonal direction across the piece of goods, when required for
use, in order to impart to them a certain degree of elasticity or flexi-
bility which they would not otherwise possess, and which is highly
essential to the purposes for which they are to be employed. My In-

page_text: vention is intended to dispense entirely with the diagonal or “aslant
cutting of the goods, and consists in weaving the cloth itself originally
in a diagonal direction, that is, introducing the weft or shoot threads of
such fabrics in a diagonal direction, either at an angle of 45° to the
warp threads of the said fabrics, or at any other angle to the said warp
threads (except a right angle), as may be found most suitable to the
nature of the fabric to be produced, and the peculiar purpose to which it
is to be applied, so that upon cutting the cloth at right angles to the warp,
or straight across the piece, the diagonal direction of the weft threads
will give the requisite degree of clasticity or flexibility to the fabric;
besides which, in making hat plush I am thus enabled to get a vertical
instead of an oblique joint down the side of the hat. The method of
carrying my Invention into practical effect will be readily understood
upon referring to the accompanying Drawings, and the following ex-
planation thereof. The Drawings are made to a scale of about one
inch to a foot, and similar letters of reference are placed upon the like
parts of the mechanism in both Figures. Figure 1, represents a plan
o horizontal view of a hand loom for weaving hat plush at an angle
of about twenty-seven degrees; and Fig. 2, is a vertical section of the
same. This have shewn for the sake of illustration, but it will, of
course, he evident that the angle may be varied. Some descriptions
of cloth also may be woven by power. I would also here remark that
two cloths may be woven at the same operation, and afterwards sepa-
rated, or a cloth may be woven in a tubular form, and cut into lengths
as required, provided always that the principle of my Invention is that
the diagonal weaving is adhered to. In the Drawing «, a, represents
the framing of the loom; b, b, is the warp beam for the ground or body
warp and c, c, is the warp beam for the pile or "draw warp." The
red lines b*, 6*, represent the ground warp; and the red lines c*,. cx,
the "pile
or "draw" warp; d, d, are the bealds or harness for
the ground warp; and e, c, the healds or harness for the pile or
draw warp. The healds are suspended and actuated by means of the
jacks and treadles f,f,f,f, in the usual manner; g, g, is the lathe
or slay; and h, h, is the reed; i, i, is the breast beam; and k, k. the
cloth or work roller. It will be observed that the lathe or "slay.ğ, is
placed at an angle with the warp threads; and (instead of being

page_text: mounted upon or suspended from vibrating levers or "slay swords"
as usual) it is moved upon friction wheels n, n, running upon the
V shaped rails o, o. It will be observed (see Fig. 1,) that the "dents"
of the reed are so placed as to be parallel with the warp threads. It is
also advisable, although not absolutely necessary, that the healds or
harness should be placed at a corresponding angle, as shewn, in order
to equalize the strain upon the warp threads, and also to give a more
regular "shed" or opening of the same. The method of weaving is
precisely similar to the ordinary method, except that in consequence of
the diagonal position of the slay y, and reed h, h, the weft or shoot
threads are necessarily introduced and beaten up at a corresponding
angle of inclination to the warp threads.
Having thus described the nature and object of my said improve-
ments, together with the manner of carrying the same into practical effect,
I would remark, in conclusion, that 1 claim as my Invention manu-
facturing hat plush or other textile fabrics by weaving or introducing
the weft or shoot theads in a diagonal direction, that is to say, at almost
any other angle to the warp threads of the said fabrics, except a right
angle, by means of a diagonal "lathe or slay" moving upon parallel
slides at each end, in order that when the picce is cut straight across
or at right angles to the warp threads it may possess a degree of
elasticity and flexibility similar to that obtained in a piece of ordinarily
woven fabric by cutting the same upon the "biass" or "cross," or
aslant the piccc.
In witness wheroof, 1, the said Richard Husband, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, this Seventh day of April, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-three.
Signed, sealed, and delivered by
the said Richard Husband in
the presence of
JOHN DAVIES,
Manchester.
RICHD. HUSBAND. (L.S.)