A JACQUARD AND CLIPPING APPARATUS WHICH MAY BE APPLIED TO ALL KINDS OF HOSIERY KNITTING MACHINES FOR THE PURPOSE OF MAKING STRIPED FABRICS OF VARIOUS COLOURS."
Year: 1880

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to James Bettney, Machinist, of Great Alfred Street, South
Nottingham, for an Invention of "A JACQUARD AND CLIPPING APPARATUS
WHICH MAY BE APPLIED TO ALL KINDS OF HOSIERY KNITTING MACHINES
FOR THE PURPOSE OF MAKING STRIPED FABRICS OF VARIOUS COLOURS."
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said James Bettney at the Office
of the Commissioners of Patents on the 25th February 1880.
JAMES BETTNEY, Machinist, of Great Alfred St., South Nottingham. "A
JACQUARD AND CLIPPING APPARATUS WHICH MAY BE APPLIED TO ALL KINDS
OF HOSIERY KNITTING MACHINES FOR THE PURPOSE OF MAKING STRIPED
FABRICS OF VARIOUS COLOURS."
The jacquard works by perforated cards, which are perforated according to the
pattern required, and any pattern of stripes may be made by it as follows, that is,
by the aid of feeding needles which carry the yarn to the knitting needles, where
it is worked into fabric by the machine :-
The feeding needles, of which there are as many as there are colours used in
making the fabric, are acted upon by the cards, which travel in succession round and
are presented to their work by a polygonal cilinder containing any number of sides
that may be convenient to the circumstances of each particular application of the
jacquard. The cilinder is made to rise and fall by a lever which receives its
motion from a camb attached to and worked by the machine. The cilinder is also
made to revolve while falling, so as to present a fresh side and card to act upon
the feeding needles (as before stated) every time it rises again. When a feeding
needle is put into work by a card it is held there by a spring while the cilinder
and card descends, and until it is required to put another into work, when it is
released by a lever which is also worked by a camb attached to the machine.
After a feeding needle is thrown out of work it is necessary to clip off the yarn,
which is immediately done by a revolving cutter worked by a small wheel suitably
geared on head of machine.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said James Bettney in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 25th August
1880.
JAMES BETTNEY, Machinist, of Great Alfred Street, South Nottingham. "A
JACQUARD AND CLIPPING APPARATUS WHICH MAY BE APPLIED TO ALL KINDS
OF HOSIERY KNITTING MACHINES FOR THE PURPOSE OF MAKING STRIPED
FABRICS OF VARIOUS COLOURS."
This Invention consists of a jacquard and clipping apparatus, which may be
applied to all kinds of circular hosiery knitting machines for the purpose of making
striped fabrics. The jacquard works by perforated cards, the perforations being
made according to the pattern required, and it is capable of being arranged so that
any pattern of stripes may be made by it as follows, that is to say, by means of
feeding needles which carry the yarn to the knitting needles, where it is worked
into the fabric by the machine:-The feeding needles, of which there are as many
as there are colours used in making the fabric, are acted upon by the cards which
travel in succession round and are presented to their work by a polygonal cylinder
containing any number of sides that may be convenient to the circumstances of
each particular application of the jacquard. The cylinder is made to rise and fall
by a lever which receives its motion from a cam attached to and worked by the
machine. The cylinder is also made to revolve while falling, so as to present a
fresh side and card to act upon the feeding needles (as before stated) every time it
rises again. When a feeding needle is put into work by a card it is held there by
a spring while the cylinder and card descends, and until it is required to put
another into work, when it is released by a lever which is also worked by a cam
attached to the machine. After a feeding needle is thrown out of work it is neces-
sary to clip off the yarn, which is immediately done by a revolving cutter worked
by a small wheel suitably geared on head of machine. And in order that my said
Invention may be more clearly understood the accompanying Drawings are added
hereto, wherein Fig. 1 is a plan, Fig. 2 an elevation, and Figs. 3 and 4 represent
details thereof. Similar letters of reference indicate similar parts in the several
Drawings In Fig. 1 A is the circular knitting machine, shewing the needles B;
C, C, is the frame upon which the machine is erected (shewn in section in Fig. 2);
D is the bracket to which a portion of the apparatus is attached; a is the bracket
that carries a portion of stripeing apparatus; b is the bolt which has an up and
down motion to carry the perforated polygonal cylinder c, into which the pins d
work, which pins are acted upon by the perforated cards e as the cards pass round
the cylinder c. When the pins d are prevented from entering the perforated
cylinder by the interposition of the blanks in the cards, and the perforated cylinder
is at the same time lifted up by the bolt b, the result is that the short end of the
feeding needles F is raised, and the other end which carries the yarn g to its work
on the knitting needles is depressed. The feeding needles are fixed in tricks cut in
a bracket h which is screwed to the machine bracket D. When a feeding needle is
at work it is held in position by a catch plate i and spring ;; the catch plate is
worked by a lever k, which latter lever is connected with another lever (by a link)
worked by a cam upon the head of the knitting machine. When a fresh needle is
put into work, and that previously in work is thrown out, it is necessary to clip off
the yarn of that one which is thrown out of work. This is done by a revolving
cutter, which is geared into and is made to revolve by the needle trick of the
machine head, the yarn being held when out of work by a small brush n attached
to the side of the yarn guide o. In Fig. 2 A is the circular knitting machine ;
B, the needles; C, C, the frame upon which it is fixed; D, the machine bracket ;
a, a, a, is the bracket carrying the bolt b, which bolt carries the cylinder c; the
cylinder c carries round the cards e; the cards govern the action of the pins d, which

page_text: •
in turn lift up the short end of the feeding needles F, causing the other end of F to
fall down, and thereby carrying the yarn g, which is threaded through them at the
holes g', gl, into work upon the knitting needles B. When a feeding needle is flung
out of work it is lifted by the spring s; h is the bracket which carries the feeding
needles F; and ; are the bracket and spring which hold the feeding needles in
work; k is the lever which works the catch plate; k¹ is the link.which connects k
with the lever ; l'is the cam which works the lever 8, which latter lifts the bolt b
up and down by means of its forked end; m is the clipping apparatus: o is the
yarn guide, and n the brush. Fig. 3 is a separate Drawing, shewing the bracket h
in elevation, and Fig. 4 is a plan of the same.
Having now described and ascertained the nature and object of my said
Invention, I would have it understood that I do not confine or limit myself to the
precise form or details represented, so long as the distinguishing features of my
Invention are maintained; I declare that what I claim and wish to be secured to
me by the herein before in part recited Letters Patent is,―
The general combination and arrangement of mechanism together constituting
my jacquard and clipping apparatus, to be applied to all kinds of circular hosiery
knitting machines for the manufacture of striped fabrics, substantially as herein-
before described and as shewn on the Drawings, or any mere modification thereof.
In witness whereof, I, the said James Bettney, have hereunto set my hand
and seal, this Twenty fourth day of August, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and eighty.
TAMS DETIN DU