IMPROVED MACHINERY FOR MANUFACTURING BOOTS AND SHOES, PART OF WHICH IMPROVE- MENTS TO APPLICABLE TO SEWING MACHINES GENERALLY " PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION
Year: 1874

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to John Keats, of Newcastle, in the County of
Stafford, Boot Maker, Arthur Greenwood, of Leeds, in the County
of York, Engineer, and Alphonso Keats, of Newcastle, in the
County of Stafford, Boot Maker, for the Invention of "IMPROVED
MACHINERY FOR MANUFACTURING BOOTS AND SHOES, PART OF WHICH IMPROVE-
MENTS TO APPLICABLE TO SEWING MACHINES GENERALLY
"
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said John Keats, Arthur
Greenwood, and Alphonso Keats at the Office of the Commissioners
of Patents, with their Petition, on the 18th February 1874.
We, JOHN KEATS, of Newcastle, in the County of Stafford, Boot
Maker, ARTHUR GREENWOOD, of Leeds, in the County of York,
Engineer, and ALPHONSO KEATS, of Newcastle, in the County of
Stafford, Boot Maker, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention
for "IMPROVED MACHINERY FOR MANUFACTURING BOOTS AND SHOES, PART OF
A
-

page_text: The Invention consists,-
Firstly. Of improvements on the modified forms of the Crispin sewing
machine described in the Patents above referred to, and adapted for
sewing the different parts of boots and shoes.
Secondly. Of an improvement in lasting boots and shoes, the same
being effected by a modification of the heel and the blocking machine
patented the 14th day of February 1867.
We will first describe our improvements in feeding mechanism, which ]
apply to two forms of the Crispin machine, viz., the post and the horn
or bracket arm machine. These improvements consist of new under
and top feed arrangements. To the post machine, which is employed
for external sewing, we apply a new under feed consisting of a vertical
bar pivotted to one end of a lever rocking on a horizontal pivot carried a
by the framing below the table of the machine. The opposite end of
this lever is acted upon by a cam on a vertical shaft to give the lifting
motion to the vertical feed bar. This bar lies close to the post and its
upper end, which is serrated, protrudes through a hole in the throat
plate or cap on the top of the post. Below the table of the machine
this vertical feed bar is connected by means of a rod and ball and socket
joint to a horizontal lever rocking on a vertical pivot carried by a lug
from the table of the machine. This lever is also acted upon by a cam
on the vertical cam shaft of the machine (against which it is held by a
spiral spring) to give the required traverse motion to the vertical feed
bar, the length of stitch being determined by a set screw. It is of
course necessary that the presser bar holding down the work on the cap
of the machine should be released when the feeding is to take place.
This is effected in the following manner :-The presser rod is mounted on
the front of the machine and receives a light downward pressure from
spiral springs arranged on each side thereof, and serving to connect the
presser rod with the bracket head. On the top of this presser rod bears

page_text: the front end of a horizontal lever pivotted upon a bracket bolted on the
head of the machine. This lever, which is drawn downward by two
powerful springs arranged in front of the machine, carries an adjustable
lifting screw whose lower end rests upon a lifting pin which slides freely
in a vertical hole formed to receive it in the casting or head. The
lower end of this pin bears against the periphery of a cam enclosed
within the head, and by the rotation of the oam the pressure of the
strong spiral springs is removed while the feed takes place, the pressure
of the lighter springs of the presser rod keeping the foot of the presser
on the work.
For internal sewing the horn or bracket arm machine will in general
be employed. This machine requires a top feed, as an under feed is
inapplicable to this class of sewing machines. The improved top feed
which we propose to employ consists of a square vertical presser rod, so
mounted in slides in the head of the machine as to be capable of a
lateral as well as a vertical motion. The vertical or lifting motion of
this combined presser and feed is obtained in substantially the same
manner described with reference to the presser of the under feed.
The
traverse motion we obtain by connecting the lower end of the presser
rod by a link to the lower end of a vertical rock lever, which carries
at its upper end a bowle bearing against one of the cams on the
cam shaft within the head of the machine against which it is kept by
the tension of a spiral spring. A screw for adjusting the stitch is
mounted in front of the machine and acts as a stop to the vertical
presser bar. An excentric or lifting lever may be arranged to act upon
the presser rod direct, or upon the horizontal lever, as may be most
convenient, so as to raise the presser and feed out of action when
desired.
The action of the stitch forming instruments of the Crispin machine,
more particularly the "divider," has hitherto been more or less irregular
in consequence of their motions being partly governed by spiral or other
springs. It is now proposed to make their motions positive throughout,
and to introduce a combined action of the needle and divider by
modifying the shape of the well known Singer needle cam, by which
means greater certainty of action and greater speed is attained.
Another improvement relates to the formation in the swivel horn
Crispin machine of a knot or twist upon the hook thread to be after-
wards tied in by the shuttle thread. In order to produce this twist upon

page_text: the hook thread the under looper is caused to lap the thread round the
hook from right to left, or in the reverse direction to that in which it
has hitherto been laid. For carrying the motion of rotation up the
horn we employ bevil gear of equal diameter and place an intermediate
or reversing wheel between the bevil wheel at the top of the inclined
shaft and the gear wheel of the looper. Or we may keep the gear or
ordinarily used and provide a cam to give motion in the required
direction to the rack which is in gear with the lowermost pinion of the
series and drives the whole. This horn we form with cavities extending
nearly to its upper end, and apply thereto a gas burner for heating the
looper wheel. This burner is supplied with gas through a series of
jointed pipes so arranged as to allow the horn to make at least half a
revolution without interfering with the supply of gas to the burner. Or
we may construct the horn with steam passages and supply the same
with steam, providing a suitable exit for the condensed water.
Another improvement relates to the supplying of the looper with
thread from a bobbin carried by a bracket extension at the bend of
the horn. The thread passes over and under or between two grooved
guide pulleys mounted on pins between the bobbin and the horn. By
this means the thread will be drawn from all parts of the bobbin at an
equal tension.
A new adjustable break tension is adapted to the grooved periphery
of the bobbin; it consists of two nearly semicircular loops of brass wire
which embrace the grooved periphery of the upper flange, and their outer
ends are looped together and hinged to a pin carried by the bracket
extension before mentioned. The inner ends of these two semicircular
brass wires are twisted helically, and they are connected by a screw
bolt (provided with a winged or other nut), by turning which the ends
may be compressed and caused to approach each other, thereby in-
creasing as desired the friction on the grooved periphery of the bobbin.
One great advantage of this tension apparatus is that on loosening
the nut the elasticity of the brass wire will cause the semicircular
loops to open or expand sufficiently to allow the entire tension ring
to be lifted over the bobbin flange, when it will rest on the bracket
extension during the removal of the empty bobbin, and can readily
be again adjusted on the replacement of the filled bobbin. This elastic
tension is applicable to sewing machines generally.

page_text: The improved crimping or lasting machinery constituting the second
head of the Invention is intended to enable the workman with machinė
lasting to follow hand lasting more closely than heretofore, so as to
strain the leather equally when drawing it over the edges of the sole
on the last. The bed of this machine is supported on a cast-iron
framing. Near one end of the bed is a sliding abutment moved by
a screw, and at the opposite end of the bed is bolted a cast-iron
framing carrying a toe clamp of peculiar construction. This toe clamp
consists of two horizontal crimping plates hinged together by a rule
joint carried by a slide whose position is adjusted according to the size
of the boot to be operated upon. The crimping plates severally carry
a stud, which entering inclined slots formed in two projecting horns of
the cast-iron frame will be caused, when the plates are moved ondwisc
by the slide, to approach or recede from each other.
The boot when ready for being operated upon is in this condition :—
Over the last which has the insole secured to it is placed the upper,
which latter is folded over and tacked loosely in place. The toc of
the last (thus provided) is placed in the clamp between the crimping
plates, sole uppermost, and the tacks around the toe portion of the
boot removed; the heel abutment is then brought up with sufficient
force to strain the upper over the sole, the vamp part of the boot
at this time resting on the cup-shaped end of a vertical rock lever
whose fulcrum can be adjusted to set the cup-shaped end to touch
the instep of any sized boot; the tail of this lever is acted upon by
a screw and band wheel for the purpose of causing the cup-shaped
end to sweep over the instep towards the toe with sufficient pressure
to wipe up the loose leather and hold it strained while the crimping
plates are moved forward by their slide and operating screw. The
inclined slots will then cause the crimping plates to approach each
other and drag over the leather at the sides near the toe, while their
advance will cause the leather to be drawn taut over the toe; it is
then folded back over the crimping plates together with that portion
of the flesh side of the insole which has been previously slit for this
purpose, and temporarily secured by tacks or by basting stitches. The
lasted boot will then be ready to be sewn in the Crispin post machine.
Or the upper after being folded over may be permanently tacked on
to the insole with small tacks, which are intended to remain in; the
middle sole or welt together with the insole and upper are then to be
sewn through from the inside by the Crispin horn machine.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said John Keats, Arthur Greenwood, and Alphonso
Keats in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 18th August 1874.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, JOHN
KEATS, of Newcastle, in the County of Stafford, Boot Maker, ARTHUR
GREENWOOD, of Leeds, in the County of York, Engineer, and ALPHONSO
KEATS, of Newcastle, in the County of Stafford, Boot Maker, send
greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Eighteenth day of February, in the
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-four, in
the thirty-seventh year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and
successors, give and grant unto us, the said John Keats, Arthur
Greenwood, and Alphonso Keats, Her special licence that we, the said
John Keats, Arthur Greenwood, and Alphonso Keats, our executors,
administrators, and assigns, or such others as we, the said John Keats,
Arthur Greenwood, and Alphonso Keats, our executors, administrators,
and assigns, should at any time agree with and no others, from time to
time and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed,
should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the
United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands,
and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVED MACHINERY FOR MANU-
FACTURING BOOTS AND SHOES, PART OF WHICH IMPROVEMENTS IS APPLICABLE TO
SEWING MACHINES GENERALLY," upon the condition (amongst others) that
we, the said John Keats, Arthur Greenwood, and Alphonso Keats, our
executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under our,
or their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe
and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the
same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great
Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately
after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said John Keats, on behalf of myself
and of the said Arthur Greenwood and Alphonso Keats, do hereby

page_text: The looper D receives its axial motion from the shafting and gear
wheels F, F, Fig. 1, but instead of the bevil wheel at the top of the
inclined shaft taking into the teeth on the looper as heretofore we
introduce between them an idle wheel as at G, which serves to reverse
the order of the direction of rotation of the looper D, and thereby produce
the peculiar knot or twist already referred to, and to be hereafter more
particularly noticed. The shafting and gears F are driven by a
reciprocating rack carried by a rack bar F, which is jointed to a rock
lever F (see Fig. 2) carrying a bowle that works in the groove of a face
cam F3 on a vertical shaft H. This shaft carries a bevil wheel at its
upper end, which through bevil gear serves to drive a horizontal cam
shaft I, to which are fitted the cams for working the hook, the loop
divider, the shuttle, and the presser and feed bar. K. is the presser and
feed bar; it is made square, and is fitted in an open vertical slot cut in
the front part of the head L of the machine. This bar is supported by
being jointed to an arm K', which has for its fulcrum a bracket on the
head L, and it receives a vertical motion from a cam K fitted to the
shaft I. Bearing upon this cam is a loose pin K' which is free to slide
through a hole made in the head L to receive it, and upon this pin bears.
an adjustable screw Ke carried by the arm K'. A downward pressure is
given to the bar K by the coiled springs shewn in the partial front
elevation Fig. 3, Sheet II*. This presser bar, which serves also to feed
the work, receives its traverse motion from a face cam K² on the shaft I,
which cam serves to rock a lever K* held in contact therewith by a
coiled spring K, and jointed to an arm K³, which at its opposite end is
jointed to the feed bar K. The amount of traverse motion to be given
to the feed bar is limited by the adjusting screw KⓇ set in front of the
bar, and it is held up from the work (when required) by means of a
lifting cam and lever K'. M is the hook bar carrying the hook, which
pierces the work and fetches up the thread from the looper D to present
it to the shuttle. This bar is fitted with a cam M', which is shewn in
face view in the diagrams Figures 4 and 4. M² is a crank pin carried.
by a cam on the end of the shaft I, and working in the groove of the
cam M¹; N is the loop divider, which in concert with the loop
spreader N (shewn in plan at Fig. 1º) prepares the loop for the entrance
of the shuttle. The loop divider is carried by a cranked rock lever N¹,
which is operated by a grooved cam N². The loop spreader N* is jointed
to the shuttle race in rear of the shuttle, and it extends forward and
outwards, so as to work close up to but clear of the vertical hook. It is
';

page_text: caused to approach to and recede from the hook so as to seize the loop
formed by the ascent of the hook, and to open or spread it by means of
a cam-shaped slot formed in the shuttle carriage O*, into which slot a
pin on the loop spreader projects. As therefore by the traverse of the
carriage O* the shuttle is moved forward to enter the loop the loop
opener is caused to recede and open out the loop for the entrance of the
shuttle. O is the shuttle for throwing the locking thread through the
loops of the looper thread; O* is the shuttle carriage; O' is the cam for
working the shuttle carriage through the connecting arm 02 and link
rod O³.
It should be remarked that in this machine it is requisite that the
feed shall take place while the rear of the shuttle is passing through the
loop of the looper thread, instead of as heretofore in the Crispin
machines, while the nose is passing through, and further, that the
shuttle must be in the loop while the work on the swivel arm is being
turned. This will be known to the attendant by his feeling less resistance
at the right moment for turning than at any other time, which is due to
the presser and the hook being both clear of the work while the shuttle
is holding the loop at tension. The attendant would not however be
able to detect this diminished resistance if he were required as heretofore
to concentrate his attention on the guiding of the work under the
vertical hook. We have therefore introduced a guide roller P (see
Fig. 3, Sheet II.*), which is brought up into contact with the work,
and gauges the position of the sole with respect to the upper. This
roller P is mounted loosely on a sliding plate P¹ which moves in V guides
made for it in the shuttle race. A spring P2 serves to retract the
slide P¹, and it is held in position by a notched cam lever. P³, the notches
of which serve as bearings for a pin on the slide, and thus keep the
roller to its desired position. To provide for the presser and hook being
clear of the work while the shuttle holds the loop at tension great
exactness and certainty of action will be required in the stitch-forming
instruments. To this end the form of the ordinary hook cam is modified,
and a positive motion is given to the loop divider by means of a suitably
grooved cam, so as to ensure its following and keeping always its
relative position to the hook and shuttle. The construction of these
cams is clearly shown in Sheet III.
The diagrams, Figures 4 and 4ª, show the several positions of the hook

page_text: the descent of the hook during one half revolution of the crank pin, and
Fig. 4, the ascent of the hook to the highest position, and a slight
descent during the remaining half revolution of the crank pin, while a
"dwell" is obtained during the travel of the crank pin from the position
of 6 to 6*. The amount of the cam and hooks descend after the highest
position and before the "dwell" is shewn by dotted lines in Fig. 4. By
this action of the hook the lifting of the new loop of thread after the
previous stitch has been drawn tight is greatly facilitated.
Referring now to the grooved divider cam N2, Fig. 5, when that part
of the groove between 1 and 2 is passing the bowle of the rock lever .N'
carrying the divider N the point of the divider will be caused to advance
and enter the new loop of the hook (as shewn in the position of the parts
at Sheet I.), and continuing to advance while the part 3 of the cam is
passing, will open or divide the two threads. At the part 4 of the cam
the loop will be lifted from the hook aided by the descent of the hook,
as before mentioned, the parts will then be in the position shewn in the
diagram, Fig. 9, Sheet IV. (where the loop opener is also shewn as in
action), the shuttle entering the loop aided by the combined action of
the divider and loop opener. As the part 5 of the grooved cam is
operating, the divider will be caused to retire from the hook to lower the
loop as the shuttle enters the loop. During the passage of the part 6,
the divider remains stationary while the shuttle is passing through the
loop, as shewn in the diagram, Fig. 10. At 7, the divider will be caused
to fall to allow the loop to fall off the heel of the shuttle, as shewn in
Fig. 11. During the passage of the part 8, the divider will assume the
position shown at Fig. 12, the hook at the same time operating to draw
up the previous stitch to tension.
The diagram, Fig. 6, which shows the shuttle cam laid out will
sufficiently explain how the shuttle motion is timed relatively to the
motions of the divider, and loop opener, and hook, 1, representing the
part of the shuttle cam acting when the parts are in the position of Fig. 1,
Sheet I.; 2, the part opposite the bowle when the parts are in the
position of Fig. 9, Sheet IV.; 3 corresponding with the position of the
parts at Fig. 10, and 4 corresponding with the position of the parts at
Fig. 11.
The of the stikaling maahania
11

page_text: turn in the direction of the dotted arrow making one revolution, and
remaining stationary until the hook M descends into the central hole of
the looper. It is then caused to make a rapid revolution in the direction
of the drawn arrow, wrapping the thread around the hook from left to
right in front of the hook, and a twist or tied stitch is thus obtained.
The difference between this stitch and the ordinary stitch of the
Crispin machine (which latter is produced by lapping the thread around
the hook in the reverse direction from right to left at the back of the
hook), will be seen by comparing the enlarged view of the ordinary
stitch Fig. 7 with a similar view of the new stitch at Fig. 8.
From these diagrams it will be seen that if a row of the ordinary
Crispin stitches were drawn out into line (the fabric sewn being absent),
the looper thread would appear as coiled serpentine fashion over the
shuttle thread, while under similar circumstances the new Crispin stitch
would show the looper thread as coiled with a back curl over the shuttle
thread. Both these methods are further illustrated at Figures 7* and 8*,
the former being the old so called "lock stitch," and the latter the
stitch which is substantially that obtained by hand sewing. The
advantage of this latter stitch for securing the sole to the upper will be
obvious, as each stitch is locked independently of the other and does not
depend for its security in great part on the line of stitches remaining
unbroken. It has been explained that this stitch is due to the reversing
of the direction of rotation of the looper when lapping the thread around
the hook. Instead of using the idle wheel G for this purpose, we may
keep the gear as ordinarily used and provide a suitable cam to give
motion in the required direction (that is a reversed direction) to the rack
bar F¹, which is in gear with the lowermost pinion of the series F, F,
and serves to drive the whole. Or the like result may be attained by
placing the rack teeth on the opposite side of the rock bar, and bringing
them into gear with the opposite side of the pinion which is driven by
the rack bar.
The means for heating the horn A with gas without interfering with
its axial movements we will now describe with reference to Figures 1
and 2; 6 is a gas pipe fitted into the hollow A¹ of the arm and termi-
nating in a jet burner. One side of the arm A is made open to admit
the pipe, and it is closed by a gauze covering not shewn in the Drawing.
c, c, are openings through the horn to facilitate the admission of air to
the burner and the escape of the gases of combustion. The pipe b is the

page_text: continuation of an external pipe 61 (see Fig. 2), which is secured to a
fixed socket 2 on the base of the swivel arm. Upon this socket is
jointed a pipe ³, which connects with a pipe b', that is similarly jointed
to a fixed socket 65 on the bed of the machine. Connected with this
socket is a flexible pipe 66, which supplies gas to the jet burner. By this
arrangement the swivel arm is free to move into the dotted position of
Fig. 2 or into the position shewn by blue lines in the same Figure, which
latter position indicates an extent of motion that is sufficient for all
requirements.
The adjustable brake tension for the bobbin B, Figures 1 and 2, con-
sists of a band of brass wire d, which embraces the grooved pulley of
the upper flange of the bobbin, and is hinged to a pine carried by the
bracket extension pieco A². The ends of this wire terminate in two
coils, which form eyes to receive a tension screw f, by turning the nut of
which any desired amount of friction may be put upon the bobbin. One
advantage of this tension apparatus is that on loosening the nut the
elasticity of the wire will cause the friction brake to open or expand
sufficiently to allow of its being lifted over the bobbin flange, when it
will rest on the bracket extension during the removal of the empty
bobbin, and can readily be again adjusted on the replacement of the
filled bobbin.
Our Invention further relates to improvements in the Crispin post
sewing machine, the main object of which is to apply to the post machine
(which is employed chiefly for external sewing) a new under feed
mechanism, which is in most respects similar to that described with
reference to Sheet I.
In Sheet V. Fig. 1 is a vertical section taken at about the centre of
the machine, Fig. 2 is a sectional plan of the same taken immediately
above the post, and Fig. 3 is a front view of a portion of the head of the
machine. A is a vertical bar pivotted to one end of a lever B, which
rocks on a horizontal pivot B' carried by the framing below the table
of the machine. The opposite end of this lever is acted upon by a cam C
on a vertical shaft D to give the lifting motion to the vertical feed bar.
E is a hollow post for supporting the work, and it is fitted with a tubular
looper F, which draws its thread from a bobbin G below. This post is
grooved to receive the feed bar A and allow of its playing freely to give
the requisite feed motion. Its upper end is serrated, and it protrudes

page_text: through a slot in the throat plate or cap on the top of the post, and in
close proximity to the line of motion of the hook. Immediately above
the table of the machine this vertical feed bar is connected by means of
a rod H and ball and socket joint to a horizontal lever I (see Fig. 2)
rocking on a vertical pivot I' carried by the table of the machine. This
lever carries a bowle, which is acted upon by a cam K on the vertical
cam shaft D (against which cam it is held by a spiral spring), and by
this means the required traverse motion is given to the vertical feed bar,
the length of stitch being determined by a set screw L, which limits the
vibration of the lever I. It is of course necessary that the presser foot
which holds down the work on the cap of the machine should be released
when the feeding is to take place. This is effected in the following
manner: The presser rod M is mounted in guides on the front plate of
the machine, and it receives a light downward pressure from spiral
springs N, N, arranged on each side thereof (see Fig. 3), and serving to
connect the presser rod with the bracket head. On the top of this
presser rod bears the front end of a horizontal lever O pivotted upon a
bracket bolted on the head of the machine. This lever, which is drawn
downwards by two powerful springs P, P, arranged in front of the
machine and connected to the front plate carries an adjustable screw Q,
whoso lower end rests upon a lifting pin R, which slides freely in a
vertical hole formed to receive it in the casting or head. The lower end
-
similar to that
of this pin bears against the periphery of a cam S
marked Kª in Fig. 1 (Sheet I.) enclosed within the head, and by the
rotation of this cam the pressure of the strong spiral springs is removed
while the feed takes place, the pressure of the lighter springs N of the
presser rod serving to keep the foot of the presser on the work and
steady it while being fed.
In order to adapt the post machine with this improved feed mechanism
to sew internal work, that is from the waist to the heel, we modify the
form of the post, as shewn at Figures 4 and 5, Sheet V., by rounding off
the head instead of leaving it flat and square, as at Fig. 1. This will
allow of the inverted boot being turned to sew round the heel.
The improved crimping or lasting machinery constituting the second
head of the Invention is intended to enable the workman with machine
lasting to follow hand lasting more closely than heretofore so as to strain
the leather equally when drawing it over the edges of the sole on the
last

page_text: In Sheet VI. Fig. 1 shews in side elevation, and Fig. 2 in end eleva-
tion our improved crimping or lasting machine, and in Sheet VII. we
have shown the working parts on an enlarged scale, Fig. 3 being a side
elevation and Fig. 4 a plan view of the crimping mechanism. A is the
bed of the machine supported on a cast-iron framing B, B. Near one
end of the bed is a sliding abutment C, which carries on a bracketed
projection C¹ a support for the last D, over and around which the leather
is to be strained. This sliding abutment is moved by a traversing screw
E, actuated by a hand wheel to bring the last into position. At the
opposite end of the bed to that at which the abutment C is mounted is a
cast-iron framing F, which is secured by bolts to the bed A. On the top
of this framing is mounted a toc clamp of peculiar construction. This
toe clamp consists of two horizontal crimping plates G, G, hinged
together by a rule joint, as at G₁, and secured to a slide H, which works
in a rectangular opening made in the top of the framing F, and is
adjusted to any desired position, according to the size of the boot to be
operated upon, by means of a traversing screw H³, graduations being
made on the top of the framing to facilitate the adjustment of the slide.
Overlying these plates are horn-shaped projections F¹ of the framing F,
which incline inwards towards their extremities. These projections are
recessed on their under surface to receive a pin g projecting from the
plates G, which they respectively overlie. By this arrangement the
crimping plates are caused to approach or recede from each other
according as the slide H is advanced or drawn back.
I, I, are a pair of radius arms mounted upon an axle I', supported in
the framing F. These arms carry at their extremities an axle I³, which
passes freely through the framing F, segment slots being provided for
that purpose. Upon this axle I swings a vertical rock lever K, which is
hollowed out at its upper end to form a support for the toe of the last.
The tail end of this lever bears against a horizontal screw L, which
works in a screwed bearing of the framing F, and is actuated by a hand
wheel.
The radius arms I are each furnished with a lug, which is tapped to
receive a screw stop I", which bears upon a shoulder on the side of the
framing. The work when ready for being operated upon is in this
condition. Over the last, which has the insole secured to it (see Fig. 4)
is placed the upper, which latter is folded over and tacked loosely in
place. The toe of the last (thus provided) is placed in the clamping

page_text: machine between the crimping plates, sole uppermost, the tacks around
the toe portion of the boot being removed. The heel abutment C is then
brought up with sufficient force to strain the upper over the sole, the
vamp part of the boot at this time resting on the end of the lever K,
whose fulcrum can be adjusted by means of the screws I³ to support the
last of any sized boot. The tail of this lever is acted upon by the
screw I when it is desired to cause the upper end of the lever to move
towards the toc with sufficient pressure to wipe up the loose leather on
the last, and hold it strained while the crimping plates are being moved
forward by their slide and operating screw.
The inclined slots will, by
the advance of the slide H, cause the crimping plates to approach each
other, and drag over the leather at the sides near the toe, while their
advance will cause the leather to be drawn taut over the toe. The
leather is then to be folded back over the crimping plates together with
that portion of the flesh side of the insole which has been previously
slit for this purpose, and temporarily secured by tacks or by basting
stitches. The lasted upper is now ready to be closed in the Crispin boot
machine, or the upper after being folded over may be permanently
tacked on to the insole with small tacks, which are intended to remain
in. The middle sole or welt, together with the insole and upper, are
then to be sewn through from the inside by the Crispin horn machine.
It will be easily understood that the same means of crimping can be
adapted to the heel and waist of the boot if desired.
The red lines in Fig. 3 shew that the machine is adapted to receive a
last of considerably less size than that for which it is adjusted, the
support K being capable of rocking into either the dotted position or the
position drawn in red, as may be desired.
Having now set forth the nature of our Invention of "Improved
Machinery for Manufacturing Boots and Shoes, part of which Improve-
ments is Applicable to Sewing Machines generally," and explained the
manner of carrying the same into effect, we wish it to be understood
that under the above in part recited Letters Patent we claim,—
First. The combination of mechanism above described with reference
to Sheets I., II.*, and III. of the Drawings, whereby we are enabled to
produce a stitch substantially the same as that known as the hand stitch
from the inside of the boot or shoe,

page_text: Secondly. The arrangement of jointed pipes for conveying gas to the
swivel horn (for heating the looper) without interfering with the axial
motion of the horn.
Thirdly. The application to the post Crispin machine of the under feed
actuated as described with reference to Sheet V., and the means employed
for modifying the pressure of the presser foot.
Fourthly. The application to sewing machines generally of the
mechanism above described for working a top and under feed.
Fifthly. The arrangement of lasting machine described with reference
to Sheets VI. and VII., and particularly the combined use of the
automatically contracting rulo joint, crimping plates, and the swinging
toe rest, as described.
In witness whereof, I, the said John Keats, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, the Fifteenth day of August, in the
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-
four.