IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF MUFFS, TIPPETS, RUPPS, MANTILLAS, CLOAKS, SHAWLS, CAPES, PELLERINES, BOAS, CUFFS, SLIPPERS, AND SHOES
Year: 1842

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, ARCHIBALD
TURNER, of Leicester, Manufacturer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date at West-
minster, the Third day of August, in the sixth year of Her reign, did, for
Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the said Archi-
bald Turner, Her especial licence, full power, sole privilege and authority,.
that I, the said Archibald Turner, my exors, admors, and assigns, or
such others as I, the said Archibald Turner, my exors, adñors, or assigns,
should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at
all times during the term of years therein expressed, should and lawfully
might make, use, exercise, and vend, within England, Wales, and the Town
of Berwick-upon-Tweed, my Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE
OF MUFFS, TIPPETS, RUPPS, MANTILLAS, CLOAKS, SHAWLS, CAPES, PELLERINES,
BOAS, CUFFS, SLIPPERS, AND SHOES;" in which said Letters Patent is contained
a proviso that I, the said Archibald Turner, shall cause a particular descrip-
tion of the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is
to be performed, to be inrolled in Her said Majesty's High Court of Chancery
within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said in
part recited Letters Patent, as in and by the same, reference being thereunto
had, will more fully and at large appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said.
Archibald Turner, do hereby declare that the nature of my Invention, and

page_text: the manner in which the same is to be performed, are fully described and
ascertained in and by the following statement thereof, reference being had to
the Drawings hereunto annexed, and to the figures and letters marked
thereon, that is to say:-
My Invention consists in adapting and applying certain looped woven
fabrics woven in warp and shuttle looms to the manufacture of the articles
herein inentioned.
Secondly, my Invention relates to adapting and applying fabrics so woven
or made in warp machine or warp lace machines as to have long projecting
loops on the outer surface thereon, to the manufacture of the articles herein
* mentioned..
.
And, thirdly, my Invention relates to adapting and applying fabrics so
woven or made in knitting or stocking frames or machines as to have long
projecting loops on one surface thereof, to the manufacture of the articles
herein mentioned.
And in order that my Invention may be most fully understood and readily
carried into effect, I will proceed to describe the means pursued by me.
In carrying out my Invention I employ yarns of wool, cotton, silk, or other
fibrous material, separately or combined; and according to the first part of my
Invention I weave looped fabrics in looms with warps and shuttles in a
similar manner to that now practised when weaving velvet, or terry velvet, or
some classes of carpets where one surface is raised into loops by means of
laying in draw wires in the shed of the warp when opened, as is well under-
stood, but in doing so I prefer to use soft spun yarn similar to German wool,
in order that the looped surface may be close and full; and in place of laying
in draw wires of small diameter, as heretofore, which would not be suitable for
producing the classes of fabrics proper for the purposes of my Invention,
I employ rods suitable for throwing up loops of at least three sixteenths of an
inch long; and in the adapting and applying of this peculiarity of fabric to
the purposed hereafter-mentioned constitutes the novelty of the first part of
my Invention. By the weaving of such class of looped fabrics I am enabled
to make a new manufacture of muffs, tippets, ruffs, mantillas, cloaks, shawls,
capes, pellerines, boas, cuffs, slippers, and shoes of a peculiar and elegant
kind and at small cost, and I generally make the loops from three sixteenths of
an inch to three quarters of an inch. In some cases I cut such loops as in the
manufacture of velvets and cut carpets; in other cases I raise a pile on the
uncut loops by means of cards or teasels, by which means I produce a fabric
of a novel character. At the same time I would remark, that. I do not claim
the weaving of looped fabrics, even when having a surface produced thereon of.

page_text: loops of at least three sixteenths of an inch long when separately considered,
this part of my Inyention consisting in applying such fabrics, when so adapted,
in the manufacture of muffs, tippets, ruffs, mantillas, cloaks, shawls, capes;
pellerines, boas, cuffs, slippers, or shoes.
I will now proceed to explain the mode of making fabrics in warp or warp-
lace machines with a surface of loops; but as the mode of working warp or
warp-lace machines in order to produce projecting loops on one surface of the
fabrics, though not new, is not so well understood as when weaving looped
fabrics in a loom with warp and shuttle and draw wires, I will enter more
at large into suitable means of making proper fabrics for carrying out the
second part of my Invention, which consists in adapting and applying fabrics
having one surface thereof composed of projecting loops.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWING.
The construction of machinery which works with a warp, the various threads
of which are composed into fabrics by looping them on to needles and causing
the loop of each warp thread to be drawn through the loop of another warp
thread, being well understood, it will not be necessary to enter at large into a
description of the parts, or of their mode of working; I therefore propose
simply to confine myself to the making of projecting loops on one surface of
the fabric produced by such description of machines.
Figure 1 represents a side section of so much of a warp or warp-lace
machine as will enable me, aided by other views of some of the same
parts, fully to describe the making of a fabric suitable for carrying out the
second part of my Invention. Figure 2 is a front view of the parts; Figure 3
is a sectional plan; and the other Figures shew separate parts, in order
to their nature and construction being fully understood. In each of these
Figures the same letters indicate similar parts. In order to draw out and
form the rows of loops of sufficient length on the one surface of the fabric
there is applied in front of the machine a hook bar; which is worked as
hereafter described, and is governed in its movement a notched wheel
shown in the Drawing, and called the hook-bar wheel, there being two ratchet
wheels on the same axis which are worked by two drivers, and they are.
prevented turning back by a suitable click or catch. a is what I call the
hook-bar wheel, which is affixed on an axis 6; and such is the case with
respect to the two ratchet wheels c and d. The axis 6 is carried by the sliding
bar e, which slides in brackets f, f, affixed to the framing at the right-hand
end of the machine, there being a similar sliding bar at the other end of the
machine. These bars e are turned or bent up at their front ends, and they each

page_text: sliding bare at the
slides freely on the
rest against the hanging cheek plate at each end of the sinker frame, and are
constantly borne against such cheek plates by the springs g. Hence, as the
sinker frame is moved to and from the beards of the needles the sliding bars e
will go with the sinker frame, as will readily be seen by examining the
Drawings. h is the hook bar, having a hook for each pair of needles, such
hook bar being suspended on necks or axes h¹ which move in bearings
affixed to the turned-up ends of the sliding bars e; consequently the hook bar
h will out from and come back towards the needles as the sinker frame is
moved forward or back in the working of the machine. i are the hooks, the
nature of which is clearly shown in the Drawings both separately and in their
place in the machine. j is an arm affixed to the hook bar, and k is a sliding
bolt connected to the arm by a pin joint, as is shown. The bolt k has a slot
through it at , through which a stud ke, affixed to the
right-hand end of the machine, passes; and the bolt
stud ², and is retained from coming off therefrom by a screw, nut on the end
of the projecting stud k', and the back end of the bolt k by a projection ³ is
constantly borne against its wheel a by a spring k'. The hook-bar wheel a
is put in motion by means of the drivers and m.
The driver is a stationary
driver, yet capable of moving on an axis . This driver gives motion to the
ratchet wheel c whenever the sliding bar e at the right-hand end of the
machine goes towards the back of the machine; for it will be seen, that the
bar e in going back brings the ratchet wheel c against the driver 1, which will
cause it to turn the wheels round a distance equal to one tooth of the ratchet
wheel c. The driver m is attached by an axis m³ to the lever m², and
the driver m slides in guiding brackets m³, as is shown.
on an axis at m*, and the other end of the lever is attached by a pin joint to
the sliding bolt m³, which has a slot through it, and is guided by a pin mo with
a screw nut at top, as is shown, and the sliding bolt m³ has an adjusting
piece at its front end, as is shown. n is a spring which at all times tends to
keep the driver m away from its ratchet wheel d, and the wheel-d is only
moved by its driver when the sliding bolt m³ is pushed back, as hereafter
described. There are two guide bars, each having half the number of
guides that there are needles in the machine, as is well understood, and each
guide bar in its working is governed by a cut of wheels, as is well understood,
and the patterns or cuts of wheels used by me are shown in the Drawing.
The lever m² moves
Having thus described the nature of the parts which are employed when
making long loops on one surface of fabrics made in warp machines or warp-
lace machines, I will proceed to describe a course of working according to the
cut of wheels shown; and in doing so I will suppose the machine to have

page_text: been at work, and that there are loops on the hooks; and previous to releasing
the finished loops from the hooks, and before commencing a new series of
loops, that is, on racking No. 1 of the guide bar wheels, the top guide bar
will be standing three spaces to the right hand, and be capable of moving one
more space to the right hand; the bottom guide bar will be standing two
spaces to the right hand, and be able to move two more spaces to the right
band, and the guides of the top guide bar will be standing directly over the
bottom guides, in order to allow of the hooks passing between the guides; the
inkers will have just knocked over the work
top guide bar
will be standing three spaces to the right hand, and be capable of moving one
5 more space to the right hand; the bottom guide bar will be standing two
spaces to the right hand, and be able to move two more spaces to the right
hand, and the guides of the top guide bar will be standing directly over the
bottom guides, in order to allow of the hooks passing between the guides; the
sinkers will have just knocked over the work
COURSE OF WORKING.
The next operation of the machine, supposing the parts to be in the
positions above described, will be for the sinker frame to move back, which
will cause the wheels, which are mounted upon one of the sliding bars e, to be
turned by the driver at the back of the machine. The wheels being thus
acted on allows the sliding bolt attached to the arm of the hook bar to fall
into a notch in the wheel a, and the hooks are thereby removed from the
previously formed loops, and in moving from the finished work the hooks
spring past the lower warp threads, so as again to take hold of sufficient
thread in order to form a series of new loops. By the ordinary working of
the machine the guides are now moved to the upper side of the needle, and in
so moving a projection from the guide bar wheel frame acts upon a driver m
attached to the lever m² at the right-hand end of the machine, and causes it to
turn the wheels (by acting on the ratchet wheel d) which govern the hook
bar, and by this means the sliding bolt from the hook bar is again raised out
of the notch in its wheel, and the hooks each takes hold of the thread from
the lower guides and carries it towards the sinkers. No. 2 of the guide bar
wheels is now racked (by a driver in the usual manner); the top guide bar
moves one space to the left hand; the guides are now moved to the under
side of the needles, and No. 3 of the guide bar wheels is racked. The lower
guide bar moves one space to the right hand; the guides are now moved to
the upper side of the needles, and No. 4 of the guide bar wheels is racked.
The lower guide bar moves one space to the left hand; the guides now move
to the under side of the needles, and No. 5 of the guide bar wheels is racked.
The top and lower guide bars each move one space to the left hand; the
sinkers and presser bar are now worked in the usual manner to complete the
irst course or row of loops, after which the guides again move to the upper
ide of the needles, and No. 6 of the guide bar wheels is racked. The top and
ower guide bars move each one space to the left hand; the guides are now

page_text: moved to the under side of the needles, and No. 7 of the guide bar wheels is
racked. The top and lower guide bars each move three space to the right
hand. By this racking the threads of the upper guides are caused to lap on
to each other's needles, by which means the loops of the fabric are connected
together so as to prevent the long or pile loops from being drawn out. The
usual movements of the frame are now performed to knock over and take
back the work, which completes the second course. The guides are now
moved to the upper side of the needles, and No. 8 of the guide bar wheels is
racked. The top and lower guide bars each move one space to the left hand;
the guides now move to the under side of the needles, and No. 9 of the guide
bar wheels is racked. The top guide bar moves one space to the left hand;
the frame is again worked in the usual manner to complete the third course,
but the sinker frame in going back causes the wheel of the hook bar to be
turned, which causes the hooks to be withdrawn from the finished loops, the
hooks at the same time springing past the threads to prepare for another row
of loops. Similar movements of the machine will now be gone through from
No. 10 to No. 1 of the lace wheels as those above described, except that the
wheels actuate the guidés in opposite directions to those described in racking
No. 2 to No. 9 of the guide bar wheels. It should be observed that the
wheels of the hook bar are actuated every time the sinker frame goes back
after knocking over the work, but they only move the hook bar when the
hooks are to be removed from the finished loops, or previous to commencing a
new row of loops; and it may be here remarked that the number of courses
worked between each long loop or pile course may be varied according to the
nature of the fabric to be produced, and various lengths of loops may be
obtained by altering the distance of the hooks from the needles. It will be
seen that the hook bar is constantly borne towards and rests against the guage
plate o by means of the spring p, such plate o being capable of adjustment by
the screw and nut, as shewn; or, in place of making the loops by means of
hooks applied to a warp machine or warp-lace machine, fabrics with similar
loops on one surface may be produced without any addition or alteration of
the working parts of the machine, the pile loops in such cases being made by
means of draw rods or wires, introduced as shewn in Figures 4 and 5, both of
which Figures shewing a transverse section of so much of a warp or warp-lace
machine as will enable me to explain this mode of working. q is a draw rod
or wire, which is introduced on the racking of No. 7 and No. 15 of the guide
bar wheels, which draw rod is removed after having made three courses of
loops in the usual manner.
I will now describe a mode of making suitable fabrics in stocking or

page_text: knitting frames or machines, for carrying out the third part of my Invention.
In doing so I prefer to use two threads, one for making the ground of the
fabric, and the other for making the looped surface, but this is not necessary,
as the same thread may be used for both. I will suppose that a stocking
frame has been at work, and that the work is on the needles, and that it is
desired to make a row of loops; I remove the falling bar sufficiently out of
the way to allow of the length of loops required being produced; I then (if
two threads are used) cause the thread for making the projecting loops to be
laid on to the needles, and sink it by the jack and lead sinkers, and bring the
loops into the beards of the needles; I then raise the frame about a quarter
of an inch (which should be regulated by a moveable stop), in order that the
sinkers may go back without the loops. The thread for forming the ground of
the fabric may now be laid on the needles and sunk between the needles by
the jack and lead sinkers; these loops must then be carried under the beards
of the needles. There will thus be two sets of loops on each needle. The work
should then be knocked over in the usual manner, and the further working is
then to be continued in the ordinary way with a single thread once laid on
the needles till the next row of projecting or pile loops are to be made. The
advantage of using two threads is that the pile loops may be made of one
and the body or ground of the fabric by the other; thus, if cotton and wool be
used, then the cotton may be used for the ground and wool for the pile. If
only one thread be used, having sunk it for the pile loops, it is to be again
laid on to the needles in the same manner as described in respect to two
threads. By these means fabrics suitable for carrying out the third part of my
Invention may be made with facility.
Having thus explained the best means of making fabrics with long loops
both in weaving fabrics with a loom working with warp and shuttle and when
weaving with a warp machine or warp-lace machine, and also when using
stocking or knitting frames, I would wish it to be understood that I do not
confine myself to any precise details so used when making fabrics suitable for
my Invention, and I make no claim to the machines or parts of the machines
herein mentioned or described; nor do I claim the making of looped fabrics
by either class of machinery when separately considered. Having produced
the proper fabrics for the purposes of my Invention I cut out the same into
the shapes desired in making muffs, tippets, ruffs, mantillas, cloaks, shawls,
capes, pellarines, boas, cuffs, slippers, and shoes, and I make them up by
sewing; and I apply linings and other parts as heretofore practised when
making like articles from the skins or furs of animals, and as is well

page_text: understood; and I make no claim to such making up of the articles when
separately considered. But what what I claim is,―
First, the mode of manufacturing muffs, tippets, ruffs, mantillas, cloaks,
shawls, capes, pellarines, boas, cuffs, slippers, and shoes, by adapting and
applying such fabrics (made in looms working with warps and shuttles) as
have one surface thereof composed of loops at least three sixteenths of an
inch long, as above described.
Secondly, I claim the mode of manufacturing muffs, tippets, ruffs, mantillas,
cloaks, shawls, capes, pellarines, boas, cuffs, slippers, and shoes, by adapting and
applying such fabrics as are woven in warp machines or warp-lace machines
as have one surface thereof composed of projecting loops, as above described.
And, thirdly, I claim the mode of manufacturing muffs, tippets, ruffs,
mantillas, cloaks, shawls, capes, pellarines, boas, cuffs, slippers, and shoes
by adapting and applying such fabrics as are woven in stocking or knitting
machines or frames as have one surface thereof composed of projecting loops,
as above described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Archibald Turner, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Third day of February, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and forty-three.
ARCHIBALD (L.S.) TURNER.
AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the Third day of February, in the
year of our Lord 1843, the aforesaid Archibald Turner came before our
said Lady the Queen in Her Chancery, and acknowledged the Specification
aforesaid, and all and every thing therein contained and specified, in form
above written. And also the Specification aforesaid was stamped according
to the tenor of the Statute made for that purpose.
Enrolled the Third day of February, in the year of our Lord One