IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR SPINNING AND WEAVING COTTON, WOOL, AND OTHER FIBROUS SUBSTANCES, AND ALSO IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR STITCHING EITHER PLAIN OR ORNAMENTALLY
Year: 1852

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, ALEXANDER
STEWART JORDAN, of Dorchester, in the County of Norfolk, in the State of
Massachussets, in the United States of America, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Tenth day of August, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and fifty-two, in the sixteenth year of Her reign, did,
for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto EDWARD JOSEPII
HUGHES, of Manchester, in the County of Lancaster, Patent Agent, Her
special licence that he, the said Edward Joseph Hughes, his exors, adñiors,
and assigns, or such others as he, the said Edward Joseph Hughes, his exers,
adñiors, or assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to
time and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and
lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within that part of the United
Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland called England, the Dominion of
Wales, and Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, an Invention communicated to
him from abroad, of "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR SPINNING
AND WEAVING COTTON, WOOL, AND OTHER FIBROUS SUBSTANCES, AND ALSO IN
MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR STITCHING EITHER PLAIN OR ORNAMENTALLY," upon
the condition (amongst others) that he, the said Edward Joseph Hughes, by
au instrument in writing under his hand and seal, should particularly describe
and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same
was to be performed, and cause the same to be enrolled in the High Court of
[Price 8

page_text: Chancery in England within six calendar months next and immediately after
the date of the said Letters Patent.
And whereas the said Edward Joseph Hughes, by an instrument in writing
under his hand and seal, did declare the nature of the said Invention and in
what manner the same was to be performed, and caused the same to be
enrolled in the High Court of Chancery in England, on or about the Ninth
day of February One thousand eight hundred and fifty-three.
And whereas by divers assignments, and finally by an indenture bearing
date on or about the Twentieth day of January One thousand eight hundred
and fifty-eight, made between William Emerson Baker, Merchant, of the one
part, and me, the said Alexander Stewart Jordan, of the other part, the said
Letters Patent and Invention, and all and singular the rights and privileges
thereby granted, became and are now absolutely vested in me, the said
Alexander Stewart Jordan, my exors, adiiors, and assigns.
And whereas those parts of the Invention described in the said Specification
which relate to machinery or apparatus for spinning and weaving cotton, wool,
and other fibrous substances have not proved to be extensively useful, in
consequence whereof, I, the said Alexander Stwart Jordan, wish to disclaim
and I do hereby disclaim all parts of the said Specification and of the Drawings
which describe or relate to machinery or apparatus for spinning and weaving
cotton, wool, and other fibrous substances. And for the same reason I wish
to disclaim and I do hereby disclaim that part of the title which consists of
the following words, namely, "in machinery or apparatus for spinning and
weaving cotton, wool, and other fibrous substances, and also."
And whereas the machinery or apparatus for stitching or sewing described
in the Specification and shewn in the Drawings, Figures 5 to 8, and 20 to 28
inclusive, have not come advantageously into use, I, the said Alexander
Stewart Jordan, for this reason wish to disclaim and I do hereby disclaim all
parts of the Specification and of the Drawings which describe or relate to such
parts of the Invention.
And whereas in order that it may not be supposed that a claim is made
generally to the combined use of two needles in sewing machines, and also to
make the descriptive part of the Specification more clear, I alter the Specifi-
cation by striking out the words "third part of my communication relates to
machinery or apparatus for stitching or sewing either plain or ornamentally,
and the first part of the," also the words "under this head," and the word
"adopting ;" and I introduce in the same paragraph the words "a peculiar
mode of applying," and further on the words "and also instead of the two
needles heretofore employed, and which are described in the Specification of

page_text: the Letters Patent granted to John Fisher the younger and James Gibbons
on or about the Seventh day of December One thousand eight hundred and
forty-four;" and I further alter this paragraph, so that it will read as
follows, namely: "The improvements consist of a peculiar mode of applying
two needles instead of the needle and shuttle as hitherto generally used, and
also instead of the two needles heretofore employed, and which are described
in the Specification of Letters Patent granted to John Fisher the younger
and James Gibbons on or about the Seventh day of December One thousand
eight hundred and forty-four; one of these needles works in a vertical slot,
having an up-and-down motion and an eye a short distance from the point
through which the silk or thread is passed from a spool or bobbin fixed on
the machine in a convenient position. This needle pierces the cloth or
material (which is placed on a carriage or bearing exactly under it), and
carries the silk or thread through the cloth or material, and in withdrawing
forms a loop or bow. Another needle of curvilinear or other convenient shape
fixed under the said carriage or bearing supplied with thread or silk from
another spool or bobbin passes through the said loop formed by the per-
pendicular needle, and by the motion caused by the peculiar shaped cam
tightens the stitch and forms a chain or continuous loop."
And whereas the forked lever described in the Specification has not in
practice been found to be necessary, I for this reason alter the Specification by
striking out the following words, namely, "then the stitch is tightened by the
forked lever, which is worked by the segmental rack m."
And whereas the Drawing at Figure 4 is wrongly described as a plan with
the top plate off, I therefore alter the Specification by striking out the words
"with" and "off," and also the letter "s" from the word "plates," and I
introduce the words "in Figure 3 being removed."
And I further alter the Specification by introducing the words "nor do I
claim any of the mechanical parts separately" immediately before the
claiming clauses near the end of the Specification.
And I further alter the Specification by striking out the words "several
modifications," also the words "of such modifications," and also the words
"part of such modifications," the word "modifications" being in each instance"
incorrectly used. I also strike out the word "the "before the word "first,"
also the word "consists" after the word "first," also the word "the" before
the-word "second," and also the word "consists" after the word "second."
And in order that the effect of this Disclaimer and Memorandum of
Alteration may be better understood, I annex hereunto a copy of the Specifi-
cation as it will appear when such Disclaimer and Memorandum of Alteration

page_text: and 4; and in order that the workman may more readily construct a machine
according to the Invention, I have added thereto separate views on a full size
scale of the principal working parts of the machine, but to none of which
separately, as before stated, do I make any claim.
.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, EDWARD
JOSEPH HUGHES, of Manchester, in the County of Lancaster, Patent Agent,
send greeting.
WHEREAS Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Royal Letters Patent, under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date
at Westminster the Tenth day of August, in the sixteenth year of Her reign,
and in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-two, did,
for Herself, Herheirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the said Edward
Joseph Hughes, my exors, adñiors, and assigns, Her especial licence, full
power, sole privilege, and authority, that I, the said Edward Joseph Hughes,
my exors, admiors, and assigns, and such others as I, the said Edward Joseph
Hughes, my exors, adors, or assigns, should at any time agree with, and no
others, from time to time, and at all times thereafter, during the term of years
therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend,
within that part of Her Majesty's United Kingdom of Great Britain and
Ireland called England, Her Dominion of Wales, and the Town of Berwick-
upon-Tweed, the improvements communicated to me by a foreigner residing
abroad, of "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR STITCHING EITHER
PLAIN OR ORNAMENTALLY;" in which said Letters l'atent is contained a proviso
that I, the said Edward Joseph Hughes, shall cause a particular description
of the nature of the said Invention and in what manner the same is to be
performed, by an instrument in writing under my hand and seal, to be enrolled
in Her Majesty's High Court of Chancery within six calendar months next and
immediately after the date of the said in part recited Letters Patent, as
reference being thereunto had will more fully and at large appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said
Edward Joseph Hughes, do hereby declare that the nature and particulars of
the said improvements, and the manner in which the same are to be carried
into practical effect, are particularly described and set forth in and by the
following description or Specification, reference being had to the Drawings
hereunto annexed; in which Drawings the same letters of reference are used
to denote similar part or parts where different views or diagrams are shewn,
that is to say:-

page_text: "The improvements consist of a peculiar mode of applying two needles
instead of the needle and shuttle as hitherto generally used; and also, instead
of the two needles heretofore employod, and which are described in the
Specification of Letters Patent granted to John Fisher the younger and
James Gibbons, on or about the Seventh day of December One thousand
eight hundred and forty-four,, one of these needles works in a vertical slot,
having an up-and-down motion, and an eye a short distance from the point,
through which the silk, or thread is passed from a spool or bobbin fixed on
the machine in a convenient position. This needle pierces the cloth or material
(which is placed on a carriage or bearing exactly under it), and carries
the silk or thread through the cloth or material, and in withdrawing forms a
loop or bow. Another needle of curvilinear or other convenient shape fixed
under the said carriage or bearing, supplied with thread or silk from another
spool or bobbin, passes through the said loop formed by the perpendicular
needle, and by the motion caused by the peculiar shaped cam tightens the
stitch and forms a chain or continuous loop. Figs. 1, 2, 3, and 4 shew this
part of the said improvements.
Fig. 1 is a front elevation of the machine or apparatus with the front plate
off. Fig. 2a side elevation, with the side plate off. Figs. 3 and 4, plans of
the same, the top plate in Figure 3 being removed; a represents the frame;
b, the fast and loose pullys on the shaft c; d,a grooved cam fixed on the said
shaft, to which is attached the bell crank e, which by the revolution of the cam
gives the up-and-down motion to the slide f, which slides in a groove, and to
which is attached the needle g; h is a spool or bobbin, from which the thread
or silk is conveyed to the perpendicular needle g; k is the carriage or
bearing on which the material to be sewed rests, and is pierced by the said
needle, which takes the silk or thread through it; l is another grooved cam
fixed on the shaft c, which moves the segmental rack m, which works in the
pinion, to the spindle of which is attached the curvilinear or other shaped
needle o; this needle is served with the silk or thread from the spool or bobbin
p, and as the thread pierced through the material by the perpendicular needle
forms a loop, the curvilinear or other shaped needle o takes the thread or silk
through the loop, and forms a cord or chain stitch at the back of the material,
and prevents the thread or silk put through by the perpendicular needle
returning, thus making every stitch perfect; is a plate which is governed or
regulated by the screw and nut s¹ to determine the length of the stitch.
Having now fully described the nature and particulars of these improve-
ments as communicated to me, I desire it to be distinctly understood that I do
not confine myself to the exact details herein described, as I am able to vary.

page_text: or modify the same without departing from the principle of these improve-
ments; nor do I claim any of the mechanical parts separately, but I claim the
combination and arrangement of several parts of machinery herein described
for sewing or stitching, and which consists,-
First, of a notched or rough-faced bar for feeding the cloth or other
material along that is to be stitched, the said bar having a vertical or up-and-
down motion for fastening the material upon, releasing it from the notches
and striking it against a yielding plate, to move it along after each stitch is
made, as herein described and illustrated in Figures 1, 2, 3, and 4 of the
Drawings annexed.
Second, of the application of two needles in combination with each
other for the purpose of stitching or uniting fabrics or materials, one of the
said needles to be straight and work in a vertical position, the other to be
curvilinear and work in a horizontal position, with the arrangement of
mechanism for working the same, as herein described and illustrated in Figs.
1, 2, 3, and 4, of the Drawings annexed, and which two claims relate to one
distinct machine.
In witness whereof, I, the said Edward Joseph Hughes, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, the Eighth day of February, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-three.
EDWARD JOSEPH (Ls.) HUGHES.
Boston, 1 Ap 1859.
To the Clerk of the Patents of England.
This is to certify that I, Alexander Stewart Jordan, of Dorchester, in the
County of Norfolk, in the State of Massachussetts, in the United States of
America, the assignees of certain Letters Patent duly granted to Edward
Joseph Hughes, of Manchester, in the County of Lancaster, Patent Agent,
under the Great Seal, dated at Westminster the Tenth day of August One
thousand eight hundred and fifty-two, and the Specification of which was

page_text: enrolled on the Ninth of February One thousand eight hundred and fifty-three,
has applied to me for leave to enter with you the above-written Disclaimer
and Memorandum of Alteration of certain parts of the said Specification and
title.
And on considering of the said application, I directed the said Alexander
Stewart Jordan to advertise his said application in the London Gazette, and
in the Times, Morning Herald, Dailey News, and Manchester Guardian news-
papers, which was accordingly done in the London Gazette, and the Times,
Morning Herald, and Dailey News newspapers on the Twenty-second, and in
the Manchester Guardian on the Twenty-third of April last, and no sufficient
objections having been made to the said application, I have accordingly
granted leave to the said Alexander Stewart Jordan to file the said Disclaimer
and Memorandum of Alteration pursuant to the Statutes in such case made
and provided.

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE FRESENTS SHALL COME, 1. EDWARD
JOSEPH HUGHES, of Manchester, in the County of Lancaster, Patent Agent,
send greeting..
WHEREAS Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Royal Letters Patent under the Geat Seal of Great Britain, bearing date at
Westminster, the Tenth day of August, in the sixteenth year of Her reign, and
in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-two, did, for
Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto ine, the said Edward
Joseph Hughes, my exors, admors, and assigns, Her especial license, full
power, sole privilege and authority, that I, the said Edward Joseph Hughes,
iny exors, admors, and assigns, and such others as I, the said Edward Joseph
Hughes, ny exors, adñiors, or assigns, should at any time agree with, and no
others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the term of years
therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend,
within that part of Her Majesty's United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ire-
land called England, Her Dominion of Wales, and the Town of Berwick-upon-
Tweed, the improvements, communicated to me by aforeigner residing abroad,
of "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS POR SPINNING OR WEAVING
COTTON, WOOL. AND OTHER FIBROUS SUBSTANCES, AND ALSO IN MACHINERY OR APPA-
in which said Letters
RATUS FOR STITCHING EITHER PLAIN OR ORNAMENTALLY;
Patent is contained a proviso that I, the said Edward Joseph Hughes, shall
cause a particular description of the nature of the said Invention, and in what
manner the same is to be performed, by an instrument in writing under my
hand and seal, to be enrolled in Her Majesty's High Court of Chancery within

page_text: Six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said in part
recited Letters Patent, as, reference being thereunto had, will more fully and
at large appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said
Edward Joseph Hughes, do hereby declare that the nature and particulars
of the said improvements, and the manner in which the same are to be
carried into practical effect, are particularly described and set forth in and
by the following description or Specification, reference being had to the
Drawings hereunto annexed, in which Drawings the same letters of reference
are used to denote similar part or parts where different views or diagrams are
shewn, that is to say:
These improvements relate, firstly, to machinery or apparatus used for
spinning cotton, wool, &c., and are intended to simplify the construction of
the mule; and consist in the employment of a cam or barrel having a
periphery of irregular form both longitudinally and circumferentially for the
purposes of governing the revolution of the spindles, and revolves on its
axes during the operation of winding the thread on the cops, and in backing-
off preparatory to the said winding-on. This cam gives the necessary revo-
lutions to the spindles by means of a finger, which always bears on its periphery,
and which is attached to a swinging frame furnished with toothed segments
geering with toothed wheels upon a shaft, and which through a train ofgeering
drives the spindles. Its periphery is of such form circumferentially that the
finger is running towards the axes during the backing-off process, and from
the axes during the process of winding-on; by causing the segments to move
in opposite directions, the spindles are driven in opposite directions. It is of
such a form where the finger bears during the running of the carriage as to
drive the spindles with a constantly accelerated motion, which is essentially
necessary owing to the decreasing diameter of the cop towards the top, where
the winding-on finishes. Its circumferential form varies at different parts of
its length, which gives it the longitudinal irregularity of form beforedescribed
which is necessary to suit the degree of acceleration of speed and the amount
of backing-off required at different stages of the building of the cop, the form of
which is constantly changing from the commencement to the termination of
the winding-on; the finger has a slow movement from end to end of the cam,
and by its varying form gives a varying movement to the segments and
consequently to the spindles.
The other parts of this Invention are for the most part subsidiary to the
cam or irregular shaped barrel, either for communicating motion to it, or for
transmitting motion to the various parts, excepting one improvement, which is

page_text: applicable to any self-acting mule, consisting in attaching to or connecting with
the loose pulley the mechanism or contrivance necessary for shipping the belt
from it to the pulley which drives the carriage up to the beam.
The nature of these improvements will be better understood by reference to
Figures 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, and 16, in the Drawings, in which Figure 11 repre-
sents a side elevation of the mule; Figure 12, an end view of the same;
Figure 13, a plan thereof; Figure 14, a section of part thereof; Figure 15, a
view of the swinging frame; and Figure 16, a view of the cam. A represents
the framing of the head of mule; B, the cam, or irregular shaped barrel, which
governs the backing-off and winding-on of the yarn; it is secured on the shaft C,
which works in suitable bearings. Its greatest excentricity circumferentially
is at the end 4, and it approaches nearer to a circular form towards the
opposite end; see more particularly Figure 16. D, D, are two levers, secured
firmly to the shaft E, hung on suitable bearings in the lower part of the
framing, and forming their fulcrum. Between the two levers D, D, is fixed
the box F, which, together with the levers, form the swinging frame. The
upper ends of the levers carry toothed segments a, a, which form parts of
circles, described from E. In a suitable guide, consisting of the slotb, running
nearly from end to end of the box F, parallel to the shaft E and C, is fitted
the stock c, in which is secured the finger d, which always bears upon the peri-
phery of the cam B3; the screw e runs the whole length of the box, each
end fitting in with suitable journals to keep it in its proper position. This
screw passes through a female screw in the stock c, and consequently when it
is inrned, it gives the stock a movement longitudinally in the slot b, and moves
the finger & along the cam. The screw is turned after every revolution of the
cam by a ratchet or other contrivance, to give the finger the required move-
ment on the-cam. In order to keep the finger d always touching the cam
during its entire revolution, and insure the descent of the swinging frame, it
is necessary to draw it towards the cam, or else the resistance offered by the
parts driven by the segments would stop it during the time the descending
portion, or the portion from 5 to 6 of the periphery, which recedes towards the
axis, is passing it. For this purpose, the swinging segment frame is connected.
by a cord or chain f, which passes over a pulley g on the shaft C, close to the
cain, to the end of the lever G, which hangs loosely on the shaft E, the said shaft"
forming its fulcrum. This lever is operated upon by a stud, secured in the
inner face of the toothed wheel H, which is fixed on the shaft C, on which is
also fixed the cam by which the said shaft C is driven; the said stud, as the
cam revolves, presses on the upper edge of the said lever, and by drawing on.
the cord or chain f, causes it to make the segment frame and its finger d

page_text: follow the receding part of the cam; the upper edge of the lever being of
the proper form to correspond with the cam. It will be seen that as the
heel 5 of the cam B, on the point of the periphery which is nearest the axis,
gradually rises from the end to the opposite end, that the cord or chain, as
the finger moves towards that, end, will require lengthening to prevent its
being strained or broken. In order to accomplish this, it is not rigidly
attached to the frame itself, but to a block or nut which has a female
screw in it fitting to the male screw /, having journals at each end, fitting in
suitable bearings on the top of the box F. The screw is parallel with
the screw e, and, like it, is prevented moving endways; it is furnished
with a toothed wheel Z, which gears into the toothed 'wheel m, and every
movement of the screw e communicates a movement in the opposite direction
to that of. The nutj, being prevented turning by bearing on the top of the
box F, is caused to move along the screw, and thus give out the cord or chain.
Care must be taken that the size of the wheel should bear a proper pro-
portion to the wheel m, to let out the cord or chain just sufficient to compensate
for the rise in the heel of the cam, and no more, or it would fail to draw the
segment frame down far enough. I is the main driving shaft of the machine
carrying three driving pulleys J, J, J, all of equal diameters, and driven by
a band or strap from any prime mover, and shipped from one to the other at
different stages of the operation of the mule. The pulley J is fast upon.
the shaft, and serves to run the carriage out from the beam, and to drive the
drawing rollers, and whirl the spindles to spin and stretch the yarn. The
pulley is loose upon the shaft, and receives the band just before the termi-
nation of the stretch; both the said pulleys are the same as in other self-acting
mules. The pulley J is loose on the boss of the pulley J, which extends
through it for the purpose of carrying an endless screw n, which forms part of
the belt shipping apparatus, before mentioned. The last-named pulley J
drives the cam B, which backs off the spindles, and whirls them during the
winding of the yarn on the cops, and also drives the carriage up to the beam.
The main shaft. I carries a toothed wheel K, which gears into and gives
motion to a larger toothed wheel L on a shaft M, which carries a 'pinion N,
gearing into and giving motion to the toothed wheel O, which drives the front
drawing rollers. Attached to the wheel O is a small pulley P; which drives
the mule carriage by the endless chain Q, the said chain passing round the scroll
Rand pulley S; hung at the front end of the framing, the carriage being con-
nected to its under part. On the shaft I is fixed the pulley T, which drives the
spindles by the endless band or chain U. This last-described train of mechanism
is all in operation when the driving band is on the pulley: The pulley J has a

page_text: toothed pinion Vattached to it, which'gears into and drives a toothed wheel
W, which runs loosely on the shaft X, and is hung in suitable bearings on
the upper part of the framing. A small toothed wheel Z is attached to the
inner side of the wheel W, and which gears into the toothed wheel H on the
cam shaft, and gives revolution to the cam B. On the outer side of the wheel
W is secured part of a clutch Y, which drives the scroll R, the other part of
the clutch being attached to the scroll itself. The scroll works loosely on the
shaft X, and when the clutch is in gear to drive, it runs the carriage towards
the beam. Upon the shaft X are a pair of small toothed wheels Y, Y, which
gear into and receive motion from the toothed segments a, u, and upon the
same shaft is also fixed a large toothed wheel, which gears into and drives a
small toothed wheel o, which is fast upon the shaft p, hanging upon suitable
bearings below the main shaft I. The shaft p carries a pulley 9, which drives
the spindles in backing off and winding the yarn on the cops; it is loose
on the shaft, and stands close up to the side of the frame, or to a shoulder on
the shaft itself. The band U turns the pulley q in the opposite direction
to the pulley T, so that the two pulleys always revolve in opposite directions.
The pulley has a conical recess turned in its outer face, which forms part of
a friction clutch; the other part being fast on the end of the shaft. This clutch
is kept in gear by a helical springs, which is coiled around the shaft p, and is
compressed between the inside of the framing and a shoulder or stud on the
shaft for a suitable length of time to back off and wind on, and is throwir out
of gear just before the cam B stops, after having, run up the carriage by a
cam on the end of the shaft C, which said cam has an incline 6 on its outer
face, resembling part of a screw, which acts upon and forces out the end of
the lever u, which is attached at its opposite end to a stationary fulcrum
secured to the framing, and being connected near the middle of its length to
the end of the shaft p. The cam draws out the shaft and relieves the
clutch; it has an incline 7 on its inner face, which also forms a portion
of a screw:
This incline is for the purpose of throwing the scroll clutch Y
out of gear just before the mule carriage reaches the beam, which it does
by means of the lever w, which works on a fulcrum v, secured to the
frame, the said lever having a fork, which embraces the part of the clutch
connected to: the scroll, and which, when the incline 7.throws the lower
end of the lever upon which it impinges, draws the scroll outwards, free
of the wheels W and s, the scroll being kept in gear when not operated on
by the incline on the cam by the spring 22, which forces out the lower end
of the lever. In communication with the pulley J1 there is a break 8, which
is made to bear on it inside the rim by a stud q, on the inner face of the

page_text: wheel H, which acts on the lever 10, to which the break is attached; this
break is for the purpose of stopping it, so as to leave the cam Bin the proper
position. The lever 11 operates the faller, and hangs nearly horizontally on
the fulcrum 12, in the lower part of the framing. The front end is connected
by the pin 13 with the end of the copping rail, which is connected with and
operates the faller, in the same manner as in any other self-acting mule. The
back end is operated on at suitable times to raise the copping rail, and put
down the faller by the stud 14 on the outer face of the wheel H, the part of
the upper edge of the lever on which the stud acts being of suitable form to
give the required motion. The gearing for shipping the belt from the loose
pulley J¹ to the pulley J¹ consists of the lever 15 and spindle 17, which works
into suitable bearings secured to the top of the framing, and carries a cam 18
and a worm wheel 19, the worm wheel gearing with the endless screw on the
end of the boss of the loose pulley. The lever 15 hangs on a stationary fulcrum
16, and is balanced or otherwise governed by a spring or similar contrivance,
which always gives it a tendency to drive the belt towards J, but it always
rests upon the periphery of the cam 18.
This cam,
when the belt comes on
the loose pulley, revolves by the worm wheel 19 receiving motion from the
endless screw, and is in a position when the belt first comes on the loose
pulley to keep it there; but as it revolves its step 20 is caused to pass the
projection 21 on the shipper lever, which bears against it, and the lever is
allowed to shift the belt J11, when it remains until the continued revolution of
the cam returns it to the loose pulley J¹.
Having now explained the several parts of the mule in detail, I will describe
their operations:-Presuming that the cop is just commenced, and that the
mule carriage is up close to the beam ready to run out, the cam B and all
the gearing connected with it will be stationary, the finger being on the line 25;
which is shewn in Fig. 4, and supposed to run from end to end of the cam
and near the end 4. The driving belt will be on the fast pully J, the friction
clutch a will be uncoupled, so as to leave the band U free of the pully q, the
end of the lever c being on the highest point of the incline 6 of the cam t,
the pullys always running in the direction of the arrow, as shown in Fig. 1.
The main shaft I.communicates motion to the shaft M, the toothed wheel O
and pully P, the pully driving the chain Q and running out the mule; the
wheel O drives the rollers which draw and supply the yarn to the spindles,
the pully T at the same time driving the band or chain U in the proper
direction to whirl the spindles. Before the carriage finishes running out, the
belt is shipped by the ordinary means from the pully J to the loose pully J1,
and the endless, screw attached to this pully soon drives the worm wheel 19

page_text: and cam 18 so far round as to make the step 20 on the said cam pass the
skipper lever, and allow it to ship the belt to the pully J, which, by
means of the pinion V and wheels W; Z, and H, sets the cam B in motion
in the direction of the arrow shewn upon the wheel H, in Fig. 1. The end of
the lever immediately passes over the point of the incliue 6, and the friction
clutch strikes into gear. The finger & descends towards the heel or less
prominent part 5 of the cam, and causes the segments a, a, and wheels y, y,
to drive the shaft X; the wheel Z gives motion through the wheel O to the
shaft p, and the friction clutch, which couples the pully g, being in gear,
changes the direction of the motion of the band or chain U, and reverses the
movement of the spindles for backing off the yarn, when the stud 14 on the
wheel Hoperates upon the lever 11, and puts down the faller. When the heel 5
of the cam B passes the finger d, the rising part of the cam raises it, and by
reversing the motion of the segments a, a, again reverses the motion of the
spindles for winding the yarn on the cops; and at the instant this commences,
the small cam t, its incline 7 having passed the lever ut, allows the scroll R
to strike into gear, which runs the carriage up towards the beam, gradually.
retardingit. As the carriage reaches the bean, the scroll is thrown out of gear
by the operation of the incline 7 of the cam t on the lever v, and the clutch v
is uncoupled by the operation of the incline 6 on the lever u. The motion of
the carriage and of the spindles are thus both stopped at the same time. The
loose pully J keeps revolving with the pully J, and after the carriage is
run up it will have caused the endless screw and worm wheel 19 to move
the cam 18 far enough round to cause the shipper lever to ship the belt on to
its own periphery, where it remains until it is shipped by the usual means
to the pulley J. for running the carriage out again. After the scroll and the
friction clutch which drives the spindles are thrown out of gear, the finger d
passes down the commencement of the incline on the cam B till it reaches
the line 25, where it rests during the running out ready for the next backing.
The belt, being shipped from the pulley J just before this, allows the said
pully, and the gearing by which it drives the cam to be stopped by the stud q
coming into operating on the break 8. The above described series of opera-
tions are repeated until the cops are finished, the screw e moving the finger d
after every winding on of the yarn, until, by the time the cop is finished, the
finger has reached the opposite end of the cam B.
The second part of my communication relates to improvements in looms for
weaving cut pile fabrics, which are illustrated in Figures 17, 18, and 19.
Fig. 17 is a vertical section of the loom, with the slay back from the cloth;
Fig. 18 is a plan of the same, with the stay forward and the reed against

page_text: the cloth; Fig. 19, a plan thereof, with the stay back. The first part
of this Invention consists of a method of holding or supporting the warp
threads, in order that the filling may be properly drawn in at the edges of
the cloth, to make smooth and even selvages: and the second part consists
of a method of holding the filling thread in the place when it is left by
the feed, where it is beaten up into the cloth. The cut pile fabrics, to
which these improvements directly apply, are those in which two pieces
of cloth are made at the same time, being separated by intersecting plates
extending parallel with the warp threads, and the yarns,
which are to
form the pile are made to cross and recross between the intersecting plates,
and are woven alternately into each piece of cloth. A vibratory knife set
midway in the plates cuts off the yarns which, form the pile as fast as
woven. Now, when the pile warps cross between the intersecting plates
from the lower to the upper cloth, the point of the intersection of the line
of the warps, and of the line of the upper edge of the intersecting plates will
be a short distance towards the reed from the point where the cloth is already
formed. This being the case, the filling thread of the upper thread of cloth
will be prevented from being drawn closely at the selvage, and when it is beaten
up will present a loop at each time of such cross, and the same thing will happen
to the lower cloth. By this Invention, the loop is prevented being formed by
inserting a finger or shield between the warps, which finger or shield, when
pully in, pushes the warps (which have crossed from below the plates above, and
vice versa,) so that the intersection of the line of these warps and of the upper
edge of the plates coincides with the point when the cloth is already formed
This being done, when the filling is thrown in and beaten up, it will be drawn
in at the selvedges, and be even and smooth. When this filling thread is thus
beaten up the strain of the pile warp threads tend much to pull it back towards
thereed; to prevent which, I form upon the upper and under edges of the inter-
secting plates at the point when the cloth makes a kind of hook or catch, over
which the filling is beaten up by the lay, and which prevents the filling from
returning towards the reed. A represents the crank shaft; B, the crank pin;
C, the sword; D, the reed; E, the intersecting plates; F, a stationary wire
harness, which supports the ends of the intersecting plates, and guides the
warp threads by them; G is a knife, which has a vibrating motion to cut the
pile. The cam shaft, cams, harnesses, let-off and take-up motion, shuttle boxes,
stop motions, &c. are not represented, they not being necessary to the illus-
tration of these improvements. By the position of the red lines L, L, which
designate the pile warps, it will be seen that without the shield or finger they
would take the position indicated by the dotted lines, and the line of their

page_text: intersection with the upper surface of the plate would be at a short distance
from the cloth towards the reed, and the filling yarn when thrown under the
warps would take a position as shewn at Fig. 19, and when beaten up would
make a loop, as shown in dotted lines at b, b', thus making a looped selvage.
This is avoided by the finger or shield K, which is formed of two plates of
metal, one acting on the upper and the other on the lower sets of warps. They
are attached to an upper forked shaft I, which is caused to vibrate by means of
the arm J,one end of which is gaided and moved by a slot in the grooved cam
'H. This groove is so made that at the time the shuttle is thrown, and for an
instant afterwards the fingers or shields are in the position shewn in Figs. 17
and 19, by which the warps at the selvage are raised to a position as shewn by
the full red lines in Fig. 17, and allow the filling thread to be drawn in at the
selvage. This being done, the fingers or shields are withdrawn by the cam, in
order that the reed may not strike them when it is carried forward. After the
filling is beaten up, and the slay recedes from it, it has a tendency to follow
the slay for a short distance, on account of the direction of the pile warp threads.
This is prevented by forming small projections or hooks upon the intersecting
plates, as shewn at a; the filling thread being driven over these hooks by the
reed cannot return.
The third part of my communication relates to machinery or apparatus for
stitching or sewing, either plain or ornamentally; and the first part of the in-
provements under this head consists of adopting two needles, instead of the
needle and shuttle, as hitherto generally used.. One of these needles works in
a vertical slot, having an up and down motion, and an eyea short distance from
the point, through which the silk or thread is passed from a spool or bobbin,
fixed on the machine in a convenient position from the needle, pierces the cloth
or material (which is placed on a carriage or bearing exactly under it), and
carries the silk or thread through the cloth or material, and, in withdrawing,
forms a loop or bow. Another needle, of curvilinear or other convenient shape,
fixed under the said carriage or bearing, supplied with thread or silk from
another spool or bobbin,passes through the said loop, formed by the perpendi-
cular needle, and, by the motion caused by the peculiar shaped cam, tightens
the stitch, and forms a chain or continuous loop.
Figs. 1, 2, 3, and 4 show this part of the said improvements. Fig. 1 is a
front elevation of the machine or apparatus with the front plate off; Fig. 2
a side elevation with the side plate off; Figs. 3 and 4, plans of the same with
the top plates off. a, represents the frame; b, the fast and loose pullys on the
shaft c; d, a grooved cam, fixed on the said shaft, to which is attached the
bell crank e, which by the revolution of the cam gives the up and down motion

page_text: to the slide, which slides in a groove, and to which is attached the needle g;
h is a spool or bobbin from which the thread or silk, is conveyed to the per-
pendicular-needleg; kis the carriage or bearing on, which the material to. be
sewed rests, and is pierced by the said needle, which takes the silk or thread
through it; is another grooved cam, fixed on the shaft c, which moves. the
seginental rack m, which works in the pinion n, to the spindle of which is
attached the curvilinear or other shaped needle o; this needle is served with
the silk or thread from the spool or bobbin. p, and as the thread pierced
through the material by the perpendicular needle forms a loop, the curvilinear
or other shaped needle o takes the thread or silk through the loop; then the
stitch is tightened by the fork lever q, which is worked by the segmental
rack m, and forms a cord or chain stitch at the back of the material, and
prevents the thread or silk put through by the perpendicular necdle returning,
thus making every stitch perfect. is a plate, which is governed or regulated
by the screw and nuts, to determine the length of the stitch.
The second part of the improvements under the head of sewing or stitching
consists of an improved method or arrangement for working a needle and
shuttle, in which the shuttle is worked by a driver, between the ends of which
the shuttle lies with a slight play, so that when the driver acts on the back
end of the shuttle, io force it through the loop or bow formed by the thread
on the needle, there is sufficient space between the forward end of the driver
and the shuttle for the passage of the thread, and at the end of this motion the
shuttle.remains in a state of rest for an instant, whilst the driver receives a
slight back movement, to permit the passage of the thread between the back
end of the shuttle and the driver when the needle draws the stitch. After the
shuttle has been carried through the loop or bow, it has a slight additional
forward movement whilst the needle is rising, and at the time the feed motion
given to the cloth; by means of which, there are three pulls given simul-
taneously; the upward pull of the needle on the needle thread, the feed motion
of the cloth or material in one direction and of the shuttle in.the other, so
that the two threads are drawn together to draw the stitch tight. The thread
is controlled during the downward motion of the needle by means of a friction
pad, which makes a slight pressure on the thread as the needle descends. The
thread from the friction bobbin passes throughaguide connected with theneedle
carrier, so that as the needle rises, the thread is drawn tight to form the stitch,
and the friction pad presents sufficient resistance to the thread as the needle
descends to prevent the making ofslack above the cloths, and yet not sufficient
to prevent the needle from drawing the thread through to make the loop below;
and when the needle rises, there is no tendency to draw out the loop, the

page_text: friction pad simply holding the thread in its place. The friction bobbin, from
which the thread is drawn by the needle, or an adjustable arm, is attached to
the frame, so that its angle, relatively to the guide on the needle carrier
through which the thread passes, can be changed at will, and by changing the
position of the arm the motion of the needle carrier will draw out more or
less thread, as may be required. To feed the cloth or material and determine
the length of the stitch, a wheel with a friction surface and periphery formed
with very fine grooves, the edges of which are slightly serrated, is used, against
which the cloth or material is pressed by a spring plate or pad.
The nature of these improvements will be understood by reference to
Figs. 5, 6, 7, and 8. Fig. 5 is a front elevation of the said machine; Fig. 6, a
side elevation; Fig. 7, a plan of the same with the top plate off; and Fig. 8,
a plan thereof. a represents the frame; 6, the moving wheel, with handle and
fly; c, a wheel which drives the camd, to give the up and down motion to
the vertical needle e; f. the shuttle; g, the bobbin; h, a finger to hold the
thread when required to be acted upon by the projection at i, to keep it tight;
, the crank and cam to move the shuttle; l, a wheel to move the cloth or
material, with rings cut in, and grooved, for a good to encircle it; m, a bell
crank lever; n, a cam to move the same; o, screws and nuts to adjust the
length of the stitch.
The third part of the said improvements, under the head of sewing or
stitching, consists in using two straight needles, with two adjustable spring
needle bars, moving on the same plane obliquley towards each other from
opposite sides of the cloth or other material to be sewn, for regulating the
length of the stitch; and a weight, or an equivalent, for drawing through the
cloth as fast as it is sewn and released by the needles, one of which is always
in the cloth to prevent it from being drawn entirely through.
The particulars of this part of the said improvements are illustrated by
the Figs. 20, 21, 22, and 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, and 28 on the annexed
Drawings; Fig. 20 is a side elevation of the said machine or apparatus;
Fig. 21, a front view; Fig. 22, a plan; Fig. 23, a view of the cams and pully.
Figs. 24, 25, and 26 are views of the needles and thread forming the stitch
on the cloth or material; Fig. 27, a view of the needle box and spiral spring;
Fig. 28, a view of the stitch. a represents the standard or frame of the
machine; b,a shaft carrying the two grooved cams c, which work the machine.
The shaft 6 may be driven by a belt from the main driving pulley d, passing
round a smaller pulley e on one end of the said shaft, which may be turned
either by hand or power. f, two upright shafts, provided with two horizontal
arms g, h, the lower ones 9 having in their extreme ends pins to support

page_text: friction rollers, which play in the grooves of the cam c, and give to the shafts
a rocking or vibratory motion. The upper arms have on their extreme
ends vertical standards i, which project above the top plate of the machine
through slots cut therein sufficiently far to receive the needle bars j. The
vibratory motion given to the shafts by the cams c is communicated to
the needle bars; through the arms h, before described. On the tops of the
standards i are small cylinders or drums k, in which are coiled spiral springs,
one end of each of which is fastened to the said standards, and the other ends
to the inner periphery of its respective drum. In the tops of these drums are
made any suitable number of holes to insert one of the pins on the underside of
the needle bars, which admits of the easy removing or replacing them. When
they are to be placed on the drums the drum is taken between the thumb and
finger and turned slightly round, so as to tighten up the spring the pin on the
needle bar is then inserted in one of the holes in the drum, and the bar placed
in the guide, which opens for that purpose, and when the drum is released
the spring will force the needle baragainst the pin which forms one side of the
guide. These guides are arranged upon the plates m, to which are attached
the arms n, extending out to indicators o; a pin in the said arms fits into the
holes in the said indicators, so that as the plates m are turned in one direction
or the other they cause the guides to stand at a greater or less angle of incli-
nation to the needle bars, and allow them more or less throw or play, which
regulates the length of the stitch. The needles p, q, are arranged in the needle
bars in any convenient manner, so as to be readily removed and replaced; and
the thread for supplying the needle p passes from the bobbin through a guide
on the rear end of the needle bar, down through the needle holder.s, and passes
along underneath the needle in a groove made therein, for the purpose of
ensuring the forming of the loop or bow in the exact position for being taken
up by the other needle, and thence up through the eye of the needle, which is
near the point thereof. The thread of the other needle q passes in a similar
manner from another bobbin through a guide, and down through the needle
holder, coming out on the top of the needle, and resting in a slight groove in
the said needle, and thence down through the eye of the needle, which is also
near the point. It is obvious that where the needles are sewing in a straight
line, and crossing each other in the formation of each stitch, the loops or bows
of thread must be formed one on top of one needle and the other underneath
the second needle, so as to ensure its being caught up, and the obliquity given
to the needles need only be sufficient to pass through the loop or bow in the
thread, which of necessity is parallel with the needle. The bobbins p may
rest upon spiral or other springs, and be pressed down upon such springs by

page_text: y
means of a thumbscrew, to give the necessary tension to the threads. u repre
sents the cloth guides, which are made adjustable by means of set screws
passing through slots to receive the various materials to be sewn; and the ends
of said cloth guides, where they approach each other, are turned up, and pro-
vided with openings for the needles to play through, the sewing point being
between the said guides; the upright with a pulley on the top of it, over
which passes the cord w, having a weight x attached to one end, and a hook
to the other, to which the material to be sewn is hooked, and which weight, as
the needles are alternately drawn back out of the material, pulls it forward, and
the needle and its bar then in it, until the bar strikes against the opposite side
of the guide, and the extent of this motion of the bar regulates the length of
the stitch. The standard or uprightv should be properly placed on the extreme
end of the table, so that the weight may have a greater distance to fall; or
instead of the weight a spring might be used to accomplish the same end.
Instead of the spring for throwing back the needle bar being coiled in the
drum, as before described, it might be a straight spring, and arranged alongside
or parallel with the bar; or the needle bar itself may be the spring, it being
only necessary, after the needle bar has been drawn back out of the material, to
throw it far enough towards the cloth which is being fed on to form the next
stitch, which in turn is drawn forward, released, and so on. The stitch is
known as the "chain stitch," and is represented on an enlarged scale at Fig. 27;
the two threads having a double lock with each other; and in practice almost
every alternate stitch may be cut or broken, and yet the material will not
separate, or, as it is technically termed, be ripped.
Having now fully described the nature and particulars of these improve-
ments as communicated to me, I desire it to be distinctly understood that I do
not confine myself to the exact details herein described, as I am able to vary
or modify the same without departing from the principle ofthese improvements;
but I claim,
Firstly, the building of the cop'in mule spinning by means of an irregnlar
formed cam or barrel, giving the necessary motion to the spindles during the
running up of the spindles, as herein described.
Secondly, the backing-off or reversing the motion of the spindles, and
regulating or altering the amount of backing-off as the building of the cop
progresses, by means of a step or incline, of varying form, extending along a
revolving cam to govern the revolutions of the spindles.
Thirdly, the mechanism for making the finger travel the irregular surface
of the cam, and keeping it there during the operations of backing-off and
winding-on,

page_text: Fouthly, the regulating or operating the copping rail and faller by a lever
and stud, as herein described.
Fifthly, the controlling the coupling and uncoupling of the scroll which
drives the mule carriage up towards the beam.
'Sixthly, the shipping of the belt from the loose to the fast pulley, as herein
described.
Seventhly, the use in looms of a finger or shield inserted between the warps,
for the purpose of bringing the warp threads, at the edge of the cloth in
such a position that the filling yarn will be drawn in to form'good smooth
selvedges.
Eighthly, the use of hooks or projections, formed on the intersecting plates,
to hold the filling yarn from returning towards the reed.
Ninthly, the combination and arrangement of several parts of machinery
herein described for sewing or stitching, and which consists of several
modifications.
The first of such modifications consists of a notched or rough-faced bar,
for feeding the cloth or other material along that is to be stitched, the said bar
having a vertical or up and down motion for fastening the material upon,
releasing it from the notches, and striking it against a yielding plate, to move
it along after each stitch is made, as herein described and illustrated in Figs. 1,
2, 3, and 4, of the Drawings annexed.
The second part of such modifications consists of the application of two
needles in combination with each other for the purpose of stitching or uniting
fabrics or materials; one of the said needles to be straight, and work in a
vertical position, the other to be curvilinear, and work in a horizontal position,
with the arrangement of mechanism for working the same, as herein described
and illustrated in Figs. 1, 2, 3, and 4 of the Drawings annexed, and which
two claims relate to one distinct machine.
The third of such modifications is the combination and arrangement of the
several parts of mechanism for working a needle and shuttle, as herein
described and illustrated in Figs. 5, 6, 7, and 8 in the annexed Drawings, by
which said mechanism is given to the shuttle an additional forward motion
after it has been stopped to close the loop or bow, for the purpose of drawing
the stitch tight, when such additional motion is given at and in combination
with the feed motion of the cloth in the reverse direction, and the final
upward motion of the needle, so that the two threads shall be drawn tight at
the same time.
The fourth part of such modifications consists of the controlling the thread
during the downward motion of the needle by the combination of the friction

page_text: pad, to prevent the slack above the cloth with the eye on the needle carrier
for drawing back the thread, for the purposes and in the manner herein
described.
The fifth part of such modifications consists of the placing the bobbin from
which the needle is supplied with thread on an adjustable arm attached to the
frame, when this is combined with the carrying of the said thread through
an eye or guide attached to and moving with the needle carrier, whereby any
desired length of thread can be given for the formation of the loop without
varying the range of motion of the needle, as herein described; and these
third, fourth, and fifth claims relate to another separate and distinct machine.
The sixth part of such modifications consists of the application of two
straight needles in combination with each other, for the purposes of sewing or
uniting fabrics or materials and forming a stitch, as herein described, and illus-
trated in Figs. 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, and 27.
The seventh part of such modifications consists of the arrangement of
mechanism for working the said two straight needles; in which arrangement
is used needle bars, spring holders, and adjustable guides, for the purpose of
regulating the length of the stitch, as herein described, and illustrated in
Figs. 20.
Lastly, I claim the general combination and arrangement of several parts
of machinery orapparatus forsewing or stitching, either plain or ornamentally,
as herein described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Edward Joseph Hughes, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, this Eighth day of February, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-three.
EDWARD JOSEPH (L.S.) HUGHES:
AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the Eighth day of February, in