Improvements in and connected with Jacquard Mechanism for Lace-making and other Looms.
Year: 1895

page_text: Date of Application, 17th Dec., 1895-Accepted, 24th Oct., 1896
[Communicated from abroad by ALBERT E. SCHMIDT, of 1919 North 19th Street,
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, United States of America, Manufacturer of Lace
Curtains.]
Improvements in and connected with Jacquard Mechanism for
Lace-making and other Looms.
1, HENRY HARRIS LAKE, of the Firm of Haseltine, Lake & Co., Patent
Agents, 45 Southampton Buildings, in the County of Middlesex, do hereby
declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:-
Heretofore in weaving this class of goods, as for instance, lace curtains, it has
been customary to govern the pattern in one of two ways; one of which was to
employ two jacquards, each of which was provided with a separate set of cards,
one apparatus governing the thick portion of the ornamentation, and the other
apparatus, the shading; another way was to employ one jacquard which ran at
twice the speed of the loom, making two indications to each complete lift of the
jacquard, the first indication of the jacquard governing the heavy portion of the
lace figure and the second the shading. The main objection to the first arrange-
ment is the cost of the two jacquards and two sets of cards, and to the second, the
slow speed at which it was necessary to run the loom.
My invention overcomes the objection to both these prior arrangements, since I
employ but one jacquard, need but half the cards heretofore employed, and make
but one indication to each lift of the jacquard. To effect this my invention consists,
first, in the method of operating a Jacquard apparatus; next, in regard to the
jacquard proper, irrespective of its application to any particular loom, in providing
a double lift jacquard having, at least, two sets of grifts, with an indicator mechanism
adapted to indicate simultaneously the hooks operated by all or both sets of griffs,
and with means for maintaining the hooks in their indicated position after the
withdrawal of the indicator mechanism and before the griff is moved to govern a
jack; my invention further consists in the combination of this jacquard with the
particular loom described, aud in certain details of construction which will be
pointed out hereafter.
My invention will be best understood as explained in connection with the
accompanying drawings, in which
Figure 1 is a side view of a loom designed to produce goods of substantially the
character specified.
Figure 2 is a view of a jacquard, constructed according to my invention, and
which, when placed in suitable position in respect to the loom shown in Figure 1,
is adapted to govern the pattero of the article woven thereby.
Figure 3 is a section on the line -x of Figure 2.
Figures 4, 5 and 6 are detail views of the supporting frame for the griff bars.
Figure 7 is a perspective view of a convenient form of operating mechanism for
the two independent griffs.
Figure 8 is a view of the two independent griff bars, showing how the needles,
after indication, are prevented from springing back on to the griff knives of the
set which has not been raised.
Figure 9 is a view of one of the cams for operating one of the sets of griffs.

page_text: .
Figure 10 is a view showing the manner of engagement of the needles and
hooks.
Figure 11 is a perspective view of one of the bobbin carriages used in the
particular loom shown.
Figure 12 a cross section of the bobbin.
Figure 13 a detail view of a cam used to actuate the bar which governs the
movement of the warp threads.
Figures 14 to 22 are diagrammatic views illustrating the formation of the twist
of the yarn and showing how the jacquard operates to control the pattern formed
thereby.
Figure 23 is a front view of a few of the shuttles showing their relative position
to the warp threads and the other operative parts of the loom, and
Figure 24 is a view illustrating the form of web made by a loom such as shown
in Figure 1.
.
A, (see Fig. 2) is a double lift jacquard having independent sets of griffs A¹
and A. B is the indicating mechanism consisting, in the construction shown, of a
square cylinder adapted to carry and present cards B, thereby operating the
proper hooks through the medium of needles N. The indicator mechanism is
adapted to operate but once during every complete lift of the jacquard, and at
each operation it indicates hooks which are lifted by each set of griffs; that is, it
indicates all the hooks which are to be lifted in the two next lifts, one lift of each
set of griffs, it is necessary therefore to provide means to maintain the hooks in
their indicated position after the withdrawal of the indicator mechanism and
before the griffs operate.
In the particular Jacquard apparatus shown, which is of the type most usually
employed it is necessary to prevent the hooks which have been moved out of the
path of the set of griffs which makes its lift latest from springing back into the
path of the griffs after the withdrawal of the indicator mechanism and before
the griffs operate.
Any suitable means for locking the hooks may be employed; I prefer, however,
especially when the usual form of Jacquard apparatus shown is employed, the lock
best shown in Figures 2 and 8, which consists of the griffs themselves. To operate
the griffs as locks, I first, and immediately after an indication, and before the card
or other mechanism is withdrawn, lift both sets of griffs, or all the griffs if more
than two sets are employed, to such a height that they will prevent the indicated
hooks from springing back onto the griffs, but not high enough to regulate the
spool bar. The pattern indicator mechanism can then be safely withdrawn and the
griffs operated one after the other to govern two successive jacks or two parts of
one jack, or, as in the present case, two independent ornamentatious.
The two sets of griffs may very conveniently be raised the short distance
described simultaneously, but it is not at all necessary that they should move, all
that is necessary being that when the indicator mechanisin is withdrawn, both sets
of griffs shall be raised to such a height that the hooks which have been moved out
of the path of the griff's cannot spring back onto them.
After both sets of griffs have been raised to this height the iudicator mechanism
can be immediately withdrawn and the griffs, with their selected hooks, raised one
after the other.
It will of course be evident, that while I have shown my jacquard provided with
but two sets of griffs, that more than two sets could be employed if desired, the
operation being exactly the same.
In Figures 2 and 8, the griff's A' and A2 are shown in the position they occupy
after an indication has been made, the pattern card withdrawn, and the griff A
raised to regulate a jack, the griff A is raised 60 that the indicated books indicated
at cannot spring back onto these griffs.
This jacquard may be used advantageously in any position where a pattern is to
be woven in, which consists of two or more independent parts, no two of which are
applied together; a set of griffs can be supplied for each different ornamentation

page_text: or shade of the pattern, and one card will indicate all the hooks necessary on all
the griffs and the slight lift will be sufficient to preserve the indication on each set
of griffs till it is used to govern its jack.
This jacquard thus operated is very efficient in making lace curtains and
upholstery goods, and I have shown a machine for making curtains governed by
such a jacquard. L is the loom having a frame L'; W is the warp beam, to the
warp threads W₁ the take up roll; L suitable spools for the weft or pattern
threads which are indicated at p. indicate lingos for these threads; D D' are
guide bars for the warp and pattern threads respectively; these are best shown in
Figure 23. The guide bars D D' are each given an endwise motion for a purpose
to be hereafter explained; this is effected in the case of the bar D' for the warp
threads by means of a lever d pivoted at and provided with a cam runner d³
which runs in the face of the cam D shown in detail in Figure 13, a cam of a
similar character, but of slightly different contour and situated preferably at the
other end of the loom, operates the bar D, of course in some looms there are more
than two guide bars, but this is the usual number. L' indicates combs or runways
for the bobbin carriages, shown more clearly in Figures 11 and 23. S S indicate
the bobbin carriages of which there may be up to sixteen or more to an inch,
according to the fineness of the lace; their position relative to the warp threads is
shown in Figure 23, where the warp threads are shown, for the sake of clearness,
Bomewhat further apart than they would in practice.
L' indicate points which serve the same purpose as the reeds of the lay in an
ordinary loom, L' L' are beams which have edges which are adapted to engage
with notches T' T' on the bobbin carriages S and move the whole line of bobbin
carriages simultaneously through the warps. C is a power shaft, and K a shaft,
conveniently arranged on the top of the loom, and revolving at the same rate as
the shaft C for giving motion to the jacquard, it being, of course, evident that this
is simply shown as a convenient arrangement since the jacquard can be driven by
any connections found convenient.
By arranging the shaft K as shown, however, a very convenient arrangement is
afforded. In the construction shown K is a cam adapted to operate the set of
griffs A¹, N¹ being a suitable link, O' a lever and o' a suitable frame. indicates
a guide cam to do away with the necessity of a spring n' n are cam rollers which
bear against the cams the cam K is of a suitable shape, substantially as shown, to
give the griff A¹ the motion already described. A second cam K serves through
link N', lever O' and frame o' to operate the griffs A' as described, and n² being
a guide cam and rollers for riding the cams. I have also indicated at K' Fig. 3 an
eccentric for operating the cylinder B in a well known manner; N³ and O'
indicating suitable connections."
The construction of the bobbin carriages usually employed is shown in Figures 11
and 12; S being the carriage and S₁ the bobbin which turns in a suitable socket I'
in the carriage, and as the bobbin carriage is of course very thin the bobbin is
constructed of thin sheet metal, as indicated in Figure 12, two discs being
secured together at t¹ forming between them the space t³ in which the thread is
wound.
JJ. are jacks or interceptors which serve to govern the pattern, these jacks
project into the pattern shed, as shown in Figure 1, but they are connected by
means of the cords J' to the hook of the jacquard which operates to draw back
certain of the jacks to regulate the pattern. The position of the bobbin threads
and other parts is shown more clearly in Figure 23.
The stitch or weave, and the manner of making it is best explained in connection
with Figures 14 to 22 which illustrate, diagrammatically, the various positions a
thread will take in the course of making a pattern such as is shown in Figure 24
the mechanism being capable of forming the net proper, indicated at the heavy
shading or clothing indicated at and the light shading indicated at
In Figures 14 to 22, 201 w³ etc., indicate warp threads, pl pt etc., the pattern or
weft threads and s¹s the bobbin threads. S S etc., are the bobbin carriages, J the

page_text: jacks, the eyes in beam D' for the warps, and the eyes for the pattern threade.
The beam D¹ has a movement, first one way and then back so as to carry the warps
from the position shown in Figure 14 to that shown in Figure 15. The warp
threads are indicated in heavy black lines, the pattern threads in dot aud dash lines,
and the bobbin threads in light irregular lines. The threads being in the position
shown in Figure 14, and the bobbin carriages behind the web, as shown in Figure 1,
and the jacks J out of engagement with the threads, the first motion is a motion of
the warp threads w³ ³ etc., one space to the left, and of the pattern threads two
spaces to the left, this motion is given by the end wise movement of the guide
bars D D', through the eyes a d¹ of which pass, respectively, the pattern and warp
threads; at this point the indication occurs, and supposing that we desire to form
the shaded portion, indicated at in Figure 24, all of the jacks J will come
forward to prevent the free movement of the pattern threads to the left with the
guide bars D which, after the indication moves to the left a distance sufficient to
move the free pattern threads two spaces. In Figure 16 I have shown all the
pattern threads as detained by the jacks; when the threads are in this position
the bobbin carriages S make their forward movement, and the points L³ draw the
threads into position, as shown at the top of this Figure 16, the bobbin
threads etc., taking a partial turn round the warp threads and pattern threads.
The next motion is the return of the warp threads to their original position, as
shown in Figure 14, and the return movement of the pattern threads three spaces,
this motion being given by the movement of the guide bars D' and D, indication is
now made, and, as we are forming a shading at the jacks will all be withdrawn,
permitting the guide bar D to move all the pattern threads one space towards the
right, as shown in Figure 18. The bobbin carriages now make return to their
original position going through the warp threads and, as it will be noted, on the
other side of a particular warp thread from the side on which they made their
forward motion, thus wrapping the bobbin threads & s etc. round the warp threads
and pattern thread tying them together. The next motion would be the movement
of the warp threads one space to the left and of the pattern threads two spaces to
the left, leaving the shade in the position shown in Figure 15 and ready for the
forward motion of the bobbin carriages, after the proper indication has been
made; this, it will be noted, forms the shaded portion shown at in Figure 24.
To form the heavy portion called clothing, indicated at in Fig. 24, it is simply
necessary to withdraw the proper jacks which prevent the movement of the pattern
threads with their guide bar D. This I have indicated in Figure 16, where pattern
threads, shown in double lines, are supposed to have been free to move with their
guide bars; the movement of the guide bar will therefore cause these pattern
threads to be moved three spaces in advance of their starting point, and then they
will be caught up and tied by the bobbin threads attached to three bobbin carriages
instead of one, there will be therefore three pattern threads in the
space occupied
by one thread in making the stitch shown in Figure 19 or at in Figure 24. To
form the net portion shown at r it is simply necessary to tie the pattern threads
and the warp threads together for one or more jacks; the way that this is done is
shown in Figures 20, 21 and 22; Figure 20 shows the position of the threads which
are shown in Figure 17. If the indication does not permit these threads to move
with the guide bar, as they did in Figure 18, the threads being held in the position
they had in Figure 17 by the jacks, the backward movement of the bobbiu carriage
will, therefore simply wind the bobbin threads s s¹ etc., round the warp and pattern
threads without making a twist of the yarn. On the indicating jacks being
withdrawn the pattern threads will fall to the position shown in Figure 22, and then
when the guide bars make their movement one space to the left for the warp
threads and two spaces for the pattern threads it being noted that the warp
thread p will simply lie close against the warp thread and the pattern thread p
against the warp thread and so on, and the jacks preventing any further
movement all these threads have simply to be tied together without making any
cross stitch, thus by permitting the jacks to move forward or holding them back by

page_text: the action of the jacquard it will be seen that any two forms of ornamentation will
be very readily formed by the machine illustrated.
It will be noted how very well a Jacquard apparatus, constructed according to
my invention, is adapted to govern the formation of a pattern such as has been
described, the clothing r¹ and the shading of the net r would of course never be
required at the same place, each jack J is therefore connected to two hooks, one
operated by each set of griff's, the set of griffs which operates first will actuate the
jacks which serve to govern the movement of the pattern threads as the bobbin
carriages make their forward motion, and the griff, which operates last, the jacks
which have the same function on the back motion of the bobbin carriages, and
since, as is of course evident, it is never necessary that the thick clothing and the
shade is needed at the same place at the same time the indication for a complete
jack can be made before the jack is begun and then secured by raising the griffs or
other locking means, and used to regulate the pattern whenever in the course of the
jack it becomes necessary.
It has been as before suggested, customary to employ the jacquards, one of which
indicated the forward movement, and the other the back movement of the bobbin
carriages, (the other mode of working with one jacquard run at double speed not being
so usually employed on account of the slow speed at which the loom had to be run).
Each jacquard had, of course, its chain of cards and driving mechanism. By my
improvement one jacquard and its driving mechanism cau be entirely dispensed
with, and one chain of cards, which is an important item in this class of patterns,
can also be discarded, all the indication which was previously put on two cards
being made in one.
Another, and perhaps the most important advantage gained is the increase in
speed permitted. In weaving machinery the causes which limit speed are principally
the indication and the time needed for the throw of a ground bobbin carriage. The
second cause of delay can be substantially disregarded in a lace loom where the
bobbin carriage is positively actuated instead of thrown, but the indicator mechanism
has always limited the speed. In my improved apparatus, however, where a single
jacquard need make but one indication to every complete forward and back travel
of the bobbin carriages the loom can be speeded up much beyond its present limit;
I have found in practice that this increase in speed and consequently in production
is, at the most conservative estimate, more than fifteen per cent.
It will, of course, be understood that while I have described my jacquard as
employed with a lace loom, where the combination results in a very effective
machine, I do not, of course, wish to limit it to such an application, as it can be
employed in various styles of weaving.
In the figures on Sheet 2 of the drawings I have shown the preferred form of my
jacquard more in detail. The griff knives a' are secured at each end to frames b¹¹
which have secured to them guide rods which project through guide eyes a¹
secured to the frame of the apparatus, the frames b' are connected to the lever
frame o by means of links 6. The griff knives a³ are shown secured to frames b*
which have guide eyes as which surround the rods 6 and so guide the frames 6³.
This construction affords a very compact Jacquard apparatus and both sets of
griffs are guided very exactly.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, as communicated to
me by my foreign correspondent, I declare that what I claim is:
1. The method of operating a Jacquard apparatus in such a manner that one
indication will govern more than one jack, which consists in simultaneously
indicating sets of hooks adapted to govern a plurality of consecutive jacks, locking
the hooks in their indicated position, then operating successively the selected hooks
of all the indicated sets.
2. The combinatiou in a Jacquard apparatus of two or more sets of griffs, means
for operating the griffs successively to raise selected books; hooks adapted to be

page_text: operated by the griffs, an indicator mechanism adapted to indicate hooks operated
by all the griff's before any of the griffs are operated to regulate a jack, and means
for maintaining the hooks in their indicated position after the indicating mechanism
is withdrawn and before the griffs is moved to govern a jack.
3. In a Jacquard apparatus, the combination of two sets of griffs adapted to
operate alternately, hooks operated thereby, a card presenting cylinder for
indicating simultaneously hooks operated both sets of griffs, and means for
preventing the hooks which are not to be actuated by the set of griffs which
operate latest, from springing back onto said griffs after the withdrawal of the
pattern card and before the griff operates to control its jacks.
i 4. A Jacquard apparatus consisting of two sets of griffe, hooks operated thereby
and an indicator mechanism for indicating simultaneously hooks operated by both
sets of griffs in combination with means for raising both sets of griffs for a short
distance substantially for the purpose specified and then lifting first one and then
the other set of griffs to make two consecutive jackɛ.
5. A Jacquard apparatus consisting of two sets of griffs, hooks operated thereby,
and a cylinder and pattern cards for indicating simultaneously hooks operated by
both sets of griffs in combination with means for raising both sets of griffs for a
short distance, for the purpose specified, and then lifting first one and then the
other set of griffs to make two consecutive jacks.
6. A Jacquard apparatus having two independent sets of griffs, hooks operated
thereby, and indicator mechanism for simultaneously indicating hooks actuated by
both sets of griffs in combination with means for moving said griffs simultaneously
during a portion of their travel and independently during the remainder thereof.
7. The combination with a loom adapted to weave a fabric on which two
I independent patterns or ornamentations appear, said loom having a series of
mechanisms for engaging with and governing the pattern threads carried by said
loom of a Jacquard apparatus having two sets of griffs, hooks operated thereby,
two hooks, one operated by each set, being connected to each of the pattern thread
governing mechanisms, an indicating mechanism for operating simultaneously
hooks operated by both sets of griffs and suitable connections for operating the
griffs from some moving part of the loom.
נית
ולו
L 1005
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
45 Southampton Buildings, London, W.C., Agents for the Applicant.