Improvements in the Manufacture of Scarfs and the like.
Year: 1891

page_text: Date of Application, 20th Jan., 1891-Accepted, 7th Mar., 1891
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
[Communicated from abroad by WILLIAM BEACH ERSKINE, of No. 138, West
122nd Street, New York, United States of America, Manufacturer of Ribbons
and Neck-wear.]
Improvements in the Manufacture of Scarfs and the like.
I, HENRY HARRIS LAKE, of the firm of Haseltine, Lake & Co., 45, Southampton
Buildings, in the County of Middlesex, do hereby declare the nature of this inven-
tion, and in what manner the saine is to be performed, to be particularly described
and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This invention relates to that class of neckties or scarfs, commonly called four-
in-hand scarfs, and consists in an improved method of making such a scarf and in
the improved form or construction of the scarf itself.
The principal objects which my invention is designed to secure are, first, economy
in the manufacture of the scarf, resulting from the method of weaving or knitting
and folding and finishing the scarf; second, increased durability in the article itself;
third, superior neatness finish and beauty in the same; and fourth, reversibility of
the scarf, enabling both sides thereof to be used, the opposite sides being made, if
desired, of different styles of fabric or of different colors or designs, or all combined.
Hitherto, four-in-hand scarfs have been made from straight or flat woven fabrics,
by cutting the material into the proper shape, and then turning over the raw edges
and sewing them together as the lining is applied, or by sewing two similarly shaped
pieces together at the edges, so as to make a reversible scarf. It is apparent that
in this method of making such a scarf a large amount of material is lost in the
cutting, and considerable time and skill consumed in cutting and folding the material
in the proper manner. The edges, or at least one entire edge of the scarf, is formed
by seams, which mar the general appearance and finish of the article, and which are
liable to fray out or rip, thus making the scarf unfit for use.
My invention consists broadly in making the material for the scarf in the form
of a continuous tube, either of uniform diameter throughout its length or of alter-
nately greater and smaller diameter, and then folding the tubing and fastening the
folds in the manner hereinafter described.
My improved scarf is made in the following manner, reference being had to the
accompanying drawings, wherein Figure 1 is a perspective view of a piece of
the material or tubing of uniform diameter from which the scarf is made; Figure 2
is a transverse section of this tubing near the beginning of the neck portion of the
scarf, showing the manner in which the tubing is folded in making the scarf;
Figure 3 is a transverse section showing the form or construction of the scarf after
the tubing has been folded and stitched together; Figure 4 is a plan view of a
portion of the material or tubing woven with alternately greater and smaller
diameter, before the warp threads are cut out as hereinafter explained. Figure 5
is a similar view of this form of tubing after the warp threads have been cut out
and one end of the neck portion completed; Figure 6 is a perspective view of a
portion of the scarf after the warp threads have been removed or cut out ; and
Figure 7 is a plan view of the finished scarf.
The material for the scarf is woven or knitted on any suitable loom or knitting
machine in the form of a continuous tube either of equal diameter throughout, as
shown in Figures 1, 2 and 3, or of alternately increasing and diminishing diameter,
as shown in Figures 4, 5 and 6, the wider part of the tube in the latter case being
for the scarf portion proper of the scarf and the smaller part of the tube for the
neck-band. The tubing is then cut into single scarf lengths and the shorter tubes
thus formed are folded in either of the following ways, to wit: if the tube is of
uniform diameter, the tube is folded at its middle part, that is, at the part which is
TD 031

page_text: intended to pass around the collar of the wearer, and which may be termed the neck
portion or band in the manner illustrated at c in Figure 2, by pressing or forcing
in the opposite sides of the tube by any suitable means. The tube is then pressed,
which flattens it out into the form shown in Figures 3 and 7, after which the edges
of the folds are secured by sewing or in any suitable way. If sewing is used, blind
stitching is preferred.
If the tube is made of alternately greater and smaller diameter as already
explained, I prefer to weave it in the following way: the Jacquard cards are cut
in such a way as to raise or lower some of the outer warp threads up or down out
of the path of the shuttle which feeds the weft or filling threads to the loom, during
the times in which the neck portions of the tubing are being woven. The result of
this is that at the neck portions these outer warp threads are not caught in the
filling threads and are therefore not woven into the fabric or tubing, the tubing at
the neck portions being consequently of smaller diameter. This manipulation of
the outer warp threads is in no way different from the ordinary manipulation of
warp threads in a Jacquard loom, either in the matter of cutting the cards or
of mounting them. I will therefore not describe here in the Jacquard mechanism
or the loom mechanism by which my tubing is woven; it being sufficient to say
simply that at the neck portions, the outer warp threads are raised or lowered out
of the way of the weft or filling threads. Of course the warp threads can be thus
raised or lowered on one side of the tubing only or on both sides; in the former
case double the number of warp threads, say twenty, would be raised or lowered on
one side, whereas in the latter case, an equal number of warp threads, say ten,
would be raised or lowered on each side. In Figure 4 is shown the tube after it
has been woven in this way, but before the warp threads which have not been woven
into the fabric are cut out. These loose warp threads are then cut out with shears
or any suitable means, leaving the tie with open ragged edges at the corners where
the wider and narrower portion of the tube meet, as shown at the left hand end
of the neck portion in Figure 5, and in perspective in Figure 6. These edges at
the inner end of the scarf portion proper are then turned in by hand as shown at c
at the right hand end of the neck portion in Figure 5, and sewed in that position.
The tie is then pressed.
In whichever way the tie has been made its ends are then sewed or finished in the
usual way, and the tie is finally pressed if necessary, and is then complete and ready
for the market, being shown in its finished shape in Figure 7.
In the drawings, in Figure 1, A represents the tubing of uniform diameter, and
in all the figures a represents the scarf portion proper of the scarf and the neck
portion proper.
It is obvious that in the tie shown in Figure 5, I may weave the portion of the
tube which connects the scarf portion proper with the neck portion in the form of
a tube of gradually increasing or decreasing diameter, thus doing away with the
folding and sewing at & in that figure.
If desired, one side of the tubing for my scarfs can be woven or knitted with one
colour or design or effect, and the other side with a different colour, or design or
effect. It will be readily understood that this result is accomplished by using
threads of different colours, or quality, or material or all three on one side of the
tubing from those on the other, or by using a different form of weaving when the
material is woven, or a different form of stitch when it is knitted on one side of
the tubing from that on the other.
The result of this construction is to produce a scarf of different material, or
quality, or colour or effect or all four on its two sides, thus furnishing practically
two scarfs in one, and yet the scarf is seamless in the scarf portion proper.
This is done upon any ordinary Jacquard loom or knitting machine by the
ordinary manner of manipulation of the cards in the loom or the needles in the
knitting machine, and by supplying the machines with threads of the desired
colour, quality and material. I will therefore not describe herein the loom or
knitting machine.

page_text: Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, as conimunicated to me
by my foreign correspondent, I declare that what I claim is :-
1. As an article of manufacture, a four-in-hand scarf consisting of a single con-
tinuous tube, woven or folded so as to have a narrow neck portion and wide scarf
portions, substantially as described.
2. As an article of manufacture, a four-in-hand scarf, comprising a seamless
tubular fabric of substantially uniform diameter having its central portion at
opposite sides infolded and the edges of such infolds secured together, whereby a
scarf having wide seamless outer ends and a narrow central or band portion is formed,
substantially as described.
3. An improved reversible scarf, consisting of material woven or knitted in a
single piece in the form of a tube, one side of the tube being woven or knitted with
a different colour or design or effect from that woven or knitted on the other side
of the tube, in the manner substantially as described.
4. As an article of manufacture, a reversible scarf comprising a seamless
tubular fabric of substantially uniform diameter, having a different colour, design
or effect on one side from that on the other side, and having its central portion at
opposite sides infolded along the lines where the two colours or designs or effects
meet, and the edges of such infolds secured together, whereby a reversible scarf
having wide seamless outer ends and a narrow central or band portion, and having
different colours, designs, or effects on the two sides is formed, substantially as
described.
5. An improved scarf, consisting of a single piece of fabric made in the form of
a tube, having the desired diameter or width in the scarf portion proper, and a
smaller diameter or width in the neck portion, substantially as described.
6. An improved scarf, consisting of a single piece of fabric woven in the form of
a tube, having the desired diameter or width in the scarf portion proper, and
having a smaller diameter or width in the neck portion by reason of having a
smaller number of the warp threads woven into the neck portion, and having the raw
ends or edges of the scarf portions next to the neck portions folded in, sewed and
finished, substantially as described.
7. An improved method of manufacturing a scarf, which consists in preparing the
material for the scarf in the form of a tube, and folding the tube by pressing in
the opposite sides of the tube in the middle or neck portion, substantially as
described.
8. An improved method of manufacturing a scarf, which consists in weaving or
knitting the fabric for the scarf in the form of a seamless tube of substantially
uniform diameter, folding in the central portion of the tube at opposite sides,
and securing together the edges of the folds, thereby producing a scarf with
wide seamless outer ends and a narrow central or band portion, substantially as
described.
9. An improved method of manufacturing a scarf, which consists in weaving or
knitting the fabric for the scarf in the form of a seamless tube of substantially
uniform diameter, using a different colour, or design or effect on one side from that
on the other side, folding in the central portion of the tube at opposite sides along
the lines where the two colours, or designs or effects meet, and securing together
the edges of the folds, thereby producing a reversible scarf with wide seamless
outer ends and a narrow central or band portion, and with different colours, designs
or effects on the two sides, substantially as described.
10. An improved method of manufacturing a scarf, which consists in weaving or
knitting the material for the scarf in a single piece in the form of a tube, having
the desired diameter or width in the scarf portion proper and a smaller diameter or
width in the neck portion, substantially as described.
11. An improved method of manufacturing a scarf, which consists in weaving the
material for the scarf in a single piece in the form of a tube, making the tube of the

page_text: desired diameter or width in the scarf portion proper, and of smaller diameter or
width in the neck portion by raising or lowering the outer warp threads at the neck
portion out of the path of the filling threads, and thus preventing such outer warp
threads from being woven in with the fabric of the neck portion, then cutting out
these outer warp threads at the neck portion and then folding in, sewing and 5
finishing the raw ends or edges of the scarf portions, substantially as described.
Dated this 20th day of January 1890.
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
45, Southampton Buildings, London, Agents for the Applicant