Improvements in Solitaires, Sleeve and Cuff Links, Dress Studs, and other like Fastenings for Articles of Dress and Jewellery.
Year: 1886

page_text: Date of Application, 16th Sept., 1886.
Complete Left, 16th June, 1887.
Complete Accepted, 19th July, 1887.
Improvements in Solitaires, Sleeve and Cuff Links, Dress Studs, and
other like Fastenings for Articles of Dress and Jewellery.
I, WILLLIAM ERNEST PATTERSON of Warstone Lane Birmingham in the County
of Warwick, Manufacturing Jeweller, do hereby declare the nature of this invention
to be as follows :-
My invention relates to solitaires, sleeve and cuff links, dress studs and other like
fastenings for articles of dress and jewellery in which the back and front parts are
made in a piece, or are nondetachable from each other; and my said invention consists
essentially of a fixed front and stalk, with a shifting or sliding back, which latter when
in its fastened position forms a crutch end or cross bar, and when in its open or
unfastened position, the said back extends outwards from the stalk, forming as it were
a projecting arm or foot.
I will describe my invention in connection with a solitaire-
I make the front of the solitaire a fixture with the stalk, which latter extends
downwards from the underside of the former, while the other or lower end of the said
stalk is made shaped upon the underside of which, a moving back slides outwards
and inwards for fastening and unfastening-This sliding back consists essentially of a
longitudinal plate of metal of about the length of the front of the solitaire, and which
said back is secured to the foot or horizontal limb of the stalk by the turning over of
the edges of the former upon the latter, so as to admit of a sliding motion, without the
parts being made detachable.
Between the underside of the foot of the stalk, and the inner side of the movable
back, a flat spring with a spring tongue is disposed; and which said tongue is pro-
vided near its free end with a rise or swell which engages with a piercing or hole in
the foot of the stalk, when the back of the solitaire is in its normal or fastening
position, and at the back of the stalk when in a position for fastening and unfastening.
This spring and tongue is carried by and moves with the sliding back; so that on the
sliding of the back, it is retained respectively in its fastened and unfastened positions ;
that is, when the back plate makes with the stalk a figure like the letter L, the swell
near the end of the tongue engages within the hole in the foot of the stalk, but when

page_text: the back takes a cross position or crutch form (fastening position) the swell of the
spring tongue lies at the back of the stalk which thereby retains the back respectively
in two positions (fastened and unfastened).
To connect the solitaire to an article of dress, slide the back across the top of the
stalk, so that it shall rest or extend outwards upon one side thereof, like the horizontal
limb of the letter L; and when in this position, it is introduced through the button
holes of an article of dress, and then fastened by pressing the slide back again to its
former position.
Although I have described that the back is the movable part, yet I wish it to be
understood that the back may be fixed and the head made movable as described with
respect to the back.

page_text: other like Fastenings for Articles of Dress and Jewellery.
I, WILLIAM ERNEST PATTERSON of Warstone Lane Birmingham in the County of
Warwick, Manufacturing Jeweller, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and
in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement:-
My invention relates to solitaires, sleeve and cuff links, dress studs and other like
fastenings for articles of dress and jewellery, in which the back and front parts are
made in a piece, or are non-detachable from each other; and my said invention
consists essentially of a fixed front and stalk, with a shifting or sliding back, which
latter when in its fastened position, forms a crutch end or cross bar, and when in its
open or unfastened position, the said back extends outwards from the stalk or stem,
forming as it were, a projecting arm or foot.
I will describe my invention in connection with a solitaire.
I make the front of the solitaire, a fixture with the stalk, which latter extends
downwards from the underside of the former, while the other or lower end of the said
stalk or stem, is made L shaped upon the underside of which, a moving back slides
outwards and inwards for fastening and unfastening. This sliding back consists
essentially of a longitudinal plate of metal of about the length of the front of the
solitaire, and which said back is secured to the foot or horizontal limb of the stalk or
stem by the turning over of the edges of the former upon the latter, so as to admit of
a sliding motion, without the parts being made detachable.
Between the underside of the foot of the stalk, and the inner side of the movable
back, a flat spring with a spring tongue is disposed; and which said tongue is pro-
vided near its free end, with a rise or swell which engages with a piercing or hole in
the foot of the stalk, when the back of the solitaire is in its normal or fastening
position, and at the back of the stalk when in a position for fastening and unfastening.
This spring and tongue is carried by and moves with the sliding back; so that on
the sliding of the back, it is retained respectively in its fastened and unfastened
positions; that is, when the back plate makes with the stalk or stem, a figure like
the letter L, the swell near the end of the tongue engages within the hole in the foot
of the stalk or stem, but when the back takes a cross position or crutch form (fastening
position) the swell of the spring tongue lies at the back of the stalk, which thereby
retains the back respectively in two positions (fastened and unfastened).
To connect the solitaire to an article of dress, slide the back across the top of the
stalk, so that it shall rest or extend outwards upon one side thereof, like the horizontal
limb of the letter | ; and when in this position, it is introduced through the button

page_text: holes of an article of dress, and then fastened by pressing the slide back again to its
former position.
Although I have described that the back is the movable part, yet I wish it to be
understood that the back may be fixed, and the head made movable, as described with
respect to the back.
Figure 1 is a side elevation of a one part solitaire, made according to my invention.
Figure 2 is an end elevation of the same, while figure 3 is a part longitudinal vertical
section, of the said figure 1. Figure 4 is a like view as figure 3, but with the movable
or sliding back in a one sided position, suitable for it to be introduced through, or
into the button hole of a garment or the like. Figure 5 is an end elevation, with the
movable back in section. Figure 6 is a top side view of the said movable back part
of the fastener, and with the stem or shank in section. This view is taken upon
the
dotted lines A B figure 1. Figure 7 represents a like top side view of the said back
part of the solitaire as figure 6, but with the movable back part, moved out of a
central position; and which position is suitable for the introduction of the same,
through a button hole, as in figure 4, and which said view is taken on the dotted
lines CD of the said last named figure. Figure 8 shows a top side view of the said
movable back part by itself, thus exhibiting the spring tongue and the turned over
boundary edges of the open back of the shell part, and whereunder, the two opposite
edges of the top of the stem, slides (between the spring). Figure 9 represents in
plan the spring separately. Figure 10 is an edge view of the same. Figure 11 is a
side elevation of the stem, and figure 12 a plan. Figure 13 is a vertical section, and
figure 14 is a front elevation of the said stem. Figure 15 is the underside plate of
the head of a solitaire, showing the piercings, wherein the prongs of the stein take,
for the securing of the said L shaped stem thereto.
The same letters of reference indicate corresponding parts in the several figures.
a is the front part of the solitaire, and is the back and movable part, which is
made to slide to and fro, across the back of the other or front part; so as to bring the
said back part, into a one sided, or overhanging position, for unfastening or connecting
the same to a garment. c is the stem or shank part, a fixture with the front part.
This stem is angular, or has a foot or flat plate c², upon its lower end, which forms an
extended or table like bearing, upon which the movable back part b slides to and fro
as aforesaid. d is a spring, enclosed within the body or shell of the open back part b.
This spring has a free tongue d², whose end is swelled, or made arch like, for engaging
alternately at the back of the foot of the stem, and within a hole in the said foot, when
the solitaire is respectively fastened and unfastened. Thus, the swell d³ engages at
the back c³, of the foot of the stem, when the back is in its fastening or normal
position, as represented at figure 3, but when the back is in the position as represented
in figure 4, the said swelled end of the free tongue, engages within a hole or
piercing e, made within the foot or plate of the stem c.
The free tongue of the spring, presses on the underside of the foot of the stem, and
is made to slide thereunder, on longitudinal pressure being applied to the back, when
the said back is required to be placed in a fastening, or in an unfastening position;
and when the swell end of the free tongue becomes coincident with the holes c, or at
the back of the front of the stem, it snaps into position, and holds the said movable
back part in the positions as indicated.
The spring is made a fixture with the back part, while the two opposite sides of
the foot or bearing plate of the stem, slides under the turned over side edges 6³ of
the back b, and which back part is kept well to its bearing, by the pressure of the
spring.
The stem is made non-detachable from the back part, by the turned over ends 6ª
of the said back part. These ends also form stops for limiting the sliding of the back
as described.
The prop portion of the stem is concaved or bowed transversely, in order to give
increased strength and rigidity thereto; and further, the opposite edges of the
foot of the stem c, are flanged, and upon them, the turned over edges of the
spring & slide,

page_text: Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said invention,
and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I claim is-
First Making the back, or the cross back of a solitaire, or other like dress
fastener, slide to, and fro, (into and out of position for fastening and unfastening) and
directly upon, the outer end of a fixed stem or stalk, carried by the other, or front
part of the said article, or articles, substantially as described and set forth.
Secondly-Providing the outer end of the stems or stalks of solitaires, and other
like dress fasteners, with an extended or overhanging foot or bearing plate, for the
back or movable part of a solitaire or the like, to work upon, and which said foot or
plate makes with the stem or stalk proper, a right angle, substantially as described
and set forth.
:-
Thirdly In a solitaire, or other like dress fastener, in which a cross sliding back
is retained fixedly in two positions, (fastened and unfastened) by a spring, or the free
end of a spring, or its mechanical equivalent, alternately engaging with parts of the
stem or stalk, substantially as described and set forth.
Fourthly Making the stems of solitaires, transversely bowed or concaved as
described and set forth.
Fifthly The construction of the spring d, with free tongue d³ and swell d³ at its
outer end, as described and illustrated."
Sixthly The improvements in solitaires and other dress fastenings and ornaments,
in which the parts are constructed, arranged, and working in the manner, and for
the purpose as herein described and set forth in the several figures of the drawing.
Dated this Eleventh day of June 1887.