CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINE EMBROIDENT, AND. IN THE PROCESS FOR MANUFACTURING THE SAME
Year: 1880

page_text: ETTERS PATENT to Charles Alfred Barlow, of the Firm of H. B. Barlow, of
1, Warren Street, Manchester, in the County of Lancaster, Patent Agent,
for an Invention of "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINE EMBROIDENT,
AND. IN THE PROCESS FOR MANUFACTURING THE SAME." A communication
from abroad by John Wiget, of Arbon, Switzerland, and Charles Wetter,
ETTERS PATENT to Charles Alfred Barlow, of the Firm of H. B. Barlow, or
1, Warren Street, Manchester, in the County of Lancaster, Patent Agent,
for an Invention of "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINE EMBROIDENT,
AND IN THE PROCESS FOR MANUFACTURING THE SAME." A communication
from abroad by John Wiget, of Arbon, Switzerland, and Charles Wetter,
of the Firm of Wetter Brothers, of St. Gall, Switzerland.
1or an Invention 01
CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS
IN
MACHINE EMBROIDERI,
AND. IN THE PROCESS FOR MANUFACTURING THE SAME." A communication
from abroad by John Wiget, of Arbon, Switzerland, and Charles Wetter,
of the Firm of Wetter Brothers, of St. Gall, Switzerland.
"
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Charles Alfred Barlow at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 20th November 1880.
CHARLES ALFRED BARLOW, of the Firm of H. B. Barlow, of 1, Warren Street,
Manchester, in the County of Lancaster, Patent Agent. CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS
IN MACHINE EMBROIDERY, AND IN THE PROCESS FOR MANUFACTURING THE
SAME."
A communication from abroad by John Wiget, of Arbon, Switzerland,
and Charles Wetter, of the Firm of Wetter Brothers, of St. Gall, Switzerland.
The object of this Invention is to embroider eyelets, spiders, sprigs, dots, or any
other figures, in such a manner that the said figures shall be connected together
and to the body of the fabric by embroidery thread only, and not by portions of
the cloth as in common embroidery.
In performing this Invention an ordinary embroidering machine fitted with a
perforating apparatus is used, and a piece of fabric or cloth is placed in the machine
in the usual manner, and on it "understitches" are made where the figures are to
be embroidered; the work is commenced at any convenient part of the fabrie
where a circular or other shaped figure is to be embroidered; the fabric is then
perforated outside the figure in a direction at right angles to a line radiating from
the centre of the figure, and a thread is drawn across the perforation on the front
side of the cloth to another figure, where two or more understitches are made; then
the leap stitch or connecting thread already drawn from the first figure is
surrounded with thread stitched through the perforation between the first and
second figure, and fastened at the edge of the first figure; by this means the

page_text: connecting thread is placed at the front of the fabric, and the cut up cloth or
fabric between the figures can readily be gathered by embroidery. The figures are
embroidered by the machine in the usual manner. These operations are repeated
till all the figures are embroidered. The embroidered objects or figures have to be
surrounded with a row of embroidery stitches to complete the figures and gather
the cut up cloth; the border is then made by embroidery stitches, and all the
perforated or cut up fabric is thus gathered, and a complete piece of embroidery
lace is made, the figures being connected only by the embroidery threads. In this
manner various patterns at different distances apart may be embroidered. In
embroidery with no open work, where stitches are placed from the centre to the
periphery of the figure, it is not absolutely necessary to surround it with a row of
embroidery stitches.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed
by the said Charles Alfred Barlow in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
20th May 1881.
"
CHARLES ALFRED BARLOW, of the Firm of H. B. Barlow, of 1, Warren Street,
Manchester, in the County of Lancaster, Patent Agent. CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS
IN MACHINE EMBROIDERY, AND IN THE PROCESS FOR MANUFACTURING THE
SAME' A communication from abroad by John Wiget, of Arbon, Switzerland,
and Charles Wetter, of the Firm of Wetter Brothers, of St. Gall, Switzerland.
The object of this Invention is to embroider eyelets, spiders, sprigs, dots, or any
other figures, in such a manner that the said figures shall be connected together
and to the body of the fabric by embroidery thread only, and not by portions of
the cloth or fabric as in common embroidery.
In performing this Invention an ordinary embroidery machine fitted with a
perforating apparatus is used, and a piece of fabric or cloth is placed in the machine
in the usual manner, and on it "understitches" are made where the figures are to
be embroidered; the work is commenced at any convenient part of the fabric
where a circular or other shaped figure is to be embroidered; the fabric is then
perforated outside the figure in a direction at right angles to a line radiating from
the centre of the figure, and a thread is drawn across the perforation on the front
side of the cloth to another figure, where two or more understitches are made;
then the leap stitch or connecting thread already drawn from the first figure is
surrounded with thread stitched through the perforation between the first and
second figure, and fastened at the edge of the first figure; by this means the
connecting thread is placed at the front of the fabric, and the cut up fabric between
the figures can readily be gathered by embroidery. The figures are embroidered
by the machine in the usual manner. These operations are repeated till all the
figures are embroidered. The embroidered objects or figures have to be surrounded
with a row of embroidery stitches to complete the figures and gather the cut up
cloth; the border is then made by embroidering stitches, and all the perforated or
cut up fabric is thus gathered, and a complete piece of embroidery lace is made, the
figures being connected only by the embroidery threads. In this manner various
patterns at different distances apart may be embroidered. In embroidery with no
open work, where stitches are placed from the centre to the periphery of the figure,
it is not absolutely necessary to surround it with a row of embroidery stitches.
And in order that this Invention may be fully understood and readily carried
into effect I will describe the accompanying Drawing, reference being had to the
letters marked thereon. The design shewn is six times the size of the pattern to
be embroidered. A piece of fabric or cloth is placed in the machine in the usual
manner; understitches are then made on it where the figures are to be embroidered.
The circles on the Drawing represent the figures, which in this case are annular
figures connected by embroidery threads, as shewn by the radial lines extending
from one figure to another. The work is commenced, for instance, at the
figure A, then the cloth is perforated from B to C, and a thread is drawn from
A to E on the front side of the cloth; afterwards two or more understitches are to
be made in the figure F to come back with the thread on the front side of the
cloth at the point E, then the thread already drawn is to be surrounded with some
stitches through the opening B-C and fastened at D. By this process the
surrounded thread is placed entirely on the front side of the cloth, and the cut up.
cloth underneath can be gathered by embroidery more easily and more completely.
In the same way have to be drawn also the threads GH, IK, LM, NO, PQ, RS,
and the cloth is perforated round A. After all these threads are drawn the cloth

page_text: which has been cut up round A has to be gathered by embroidery, if this has not
been done before in progressing with the work. In passing over to the next figure
a few stitches are again to be wound round the thread connecting it, which is done
so that the leap stitches (or long connecting threads) may not remain visible, and
thus the proceeding is continued ad libitum. After the whole space to be worked
is in this way covered, the surrounding border is made by a row of embroidery
stitches, whereby the remainder of the cut up cloth will be gathered, if this work
has not been done during the before mentioned operations. All the embroidered
objects or figures have to be surrounded with a row of embroidery stitches to
complete the figures and gather the cut up cloth. In embroidery with no open
work, where stitches are placed from the centre to the periphery, it is not absolutely
necessary to have such a row of embroidery stitches.
By this process it will be noticed that any pieces of cloth can be detached from
the body of the fabric, and remain attached only with embroidery threads, which
pieces of cloth are to be filled with any kind of embroidery.
By the use of this Invention I am enabled to make what I call "embroidery
lace," in which the figures or patterns may be irregular and varied, and at any
convenient distance apart, connected with each other and with the body of the
fabric only by embroidery thread, and not by portions of the cloth or fabric as in
common embroidery.
Having thus stated the nature of my Invention, and described the manner
of performing the same, I wish it to be understood that I do not limit myself to
the details given, and that I claim the "embroidery lace," with the figures at
regular or irregular distances apart, and connected together and to the body of the
fabric by embroidery thread only, and the process for manufacturing the same,
substantially as shown and described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Charles Alfred Barlow, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Nineteenth day of May, One thousand eight hundred
and eighty one.