Year: 1899

page_text: Date of Application, 9th Jan., 1899
Complete Specification Left, 14th Feb., 1899-Accepted, 29th Apr., 1859
I, JAMES ARTHUR DOHERTY, of 14, Cornfield Terrace, Eastbourne, in the County
of Sussex, Tailor's Cutter, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as
follows:-
Riding breeches are most difficult of perfect formation when cut by the present
and familiar methods.
This is more particularly obvious when made from the new materials recently
introduced for riding purposes, (which have gained great popularity) their un-
pliable nature rendering it almost impossible to obtain perfect fit and comfort to
the wearer, as the superfluous cloth, caused by bending the knee into position,
cannot be pressed away with hot irons by the workman, and a transverse seam tó
remove the same (which are the customary methods) causes considerable discom-
fort to the wearer.
The object of my invention is to cut the breeches to the formation of the leg
with the knee bent, as it is on the saddle, without requiring them to be ironed
into shape, or even a transverse seam under the knee. By this means almost, if
not absoluto, perfect fit and comfort are obtained for the wearer and a minimum
of labour to the workman.
I effect my object in the following very simple but efficient way:
Instead of the customary seam running from the fork to the bottom of the
breeches, a seam is run straight from the fork to the back of the leg under the
knee. From the knee downwards the seam runs down the back of the leg to the
bottom of the breeches, (this latter portion I do not claim as part of my invention.)
The seam thus being placed under the leg, renders it perfectly easy to cut the
breeches to the shape of the leg, obviates the necessity of pressing into shape, or a
transverse seam, and adds very considerably to the comfort of the wearer.
Dated this 6th day of Tenner 1800

page_text: what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascer-
tained in and by the following statement:-
Riding breeches are extremely difficult of perfect formation when cut by the
present and familiar methods. The difficulties are not only, but more particularly
obvious when the breeches are made from khakis, cotton cords, twillettes, can-
toons, moleskins, leather or any other unpliable materials, their unpliable nature
rendering it almost impossible to obtain perfect fit and comfort to the wearer,
as the breeches at the knee cannot be pressed with hot irons into the shape of
the leg in the position it occupies on the saddle (the method, though unsatisfactory
in its results, employed for materials of a more pliable nature) and the customary
transverse seam which in unpliable materials is placed under the knee to produce
the desired shape causes considerable discomfort to the wearer.
The object of this my invention is to cut the parts constituting the breeches
so that when joined together they fit the log with the knee bent as it is on the
saddle, without requiring them to be ironed into shape or even a transverse seam
under the knee and at the same time securing almost, if not absolute perfect fit
and comfort to the wearer together with a minimum of labour to the workman.
I effect my object in the following very simple but efficient way:-Instead of
the customary seam running from the fork to the bottom of the breeches I run
a seam straight from the fork to the back of the leg under the knee. From the
knee downwards I run the scam down the back of the leg to the bottom of the
breeches, this latter portion, namely that from the knee downwards to the bottom
of the breeches, I do not claim as part of my invention.
To acchieve the desired result I deviate from the familiar and customary methods
of drafting in the following particulars:-Beginning with what is called the
top side Fig. 1 and having drafted the top part as far down as the fork line A B
in the customary way.
C, D, is the centre construction line. Instead of this line continuing straight
down through D (the knee point) I continue it from that point to Eat an angle
to suit the bend of the knee, and according to how much bend is required; for
preference I make it at an angle of 165 degrees. The line B, F, (F being the
point for the knee tack) I run as usual. F to G (the bottom of the breeches) I
make parallel with D, E. H (2) inches below G) to J taken at a right angle
from the line D E, is half the "small "
measure (that is the measure round the
smallest part of the leg just under the knee) plus of an inch for a seam.
S (the
bottom of the breeches) to K is half the calf measure plus of an inch for a seam
Draw a straight line from A to J and join J K. Join KG as shewn on diagram.
The drafting of the underside Fig. 2 is as follows: The top part as far down as
the fork line L R likewise having been drawn in the customary way. C D is
the centre construction line. From L (the fork point) draw a straight line L M
the length of the line A. J of the top side Fig. 1 and so that the point M is on
the line C D. Now placing the cut out top side Fig. 1 on to the underside Fig. 2
with the point J on the point M and the line A Jat the same angle on the right
side of the line CD as the line L M is on the left side (as shewn by the dotted
lines) mark round J K and K S and make the line NO parallel with, and the
same length as, F G and at such a distance from M and P that MQ and J T;
and P O and K G complete respectively the measures of the small and calf.
Join R N in the usual way.
When the two parts Fig. 1 and Fig. 2 constituting when joined together one
leg of the breeches are cut out, they are joined together in the following manner:- {
A J is joined to L M and J K to M P, also U B F to V RN. NO of course
buttons to F G. The seam A J L M being placed in this position running under
the knee renders it perfectly easy to fit the knee in the bent position, obviates
the necessity of arduous pressing, or inserting a transverse seam, adds very con-
siderably to the comfort of the wearer, and adds to, rather than detracts from, 5

page_text: the good appearance of the breeches. I do not claim the diverted construction
line CDE nor the seam or portion of seam J K M P as part of my invention.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
5 claim is:-
1. In riding breeches the longitudinal seam running from the fork to the back
of the leg under the knee directed and created as, and for the purpose herein before
described and declared.
2. The forming and constructing of the parts constituting each leg of the
breeches in the manner hereinbefore described and as illustrated by the accom-
panying drawings.
Dated this 11th day of February 1899
JAMES ARTHUR DOHERTY.