CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN BUTTONS FOR ORNAMENTING AND FASTENING DRESSES, AS ALSO IN LOOPS FOR ATTACHING OR HOLDING BUTTONS ON GARMENTS WHILE IN USE
Year: 1856

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Timothy Jerome, of 125, Great Hampton Street,
Birmingham, in the County of Warwick, Button Manufacturer, for the
Invention of." CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN BUTTONS FOR ORNAMENTING AND
FASTENING DRESSES, AS ALSO IN LOOPS FOR ATTACHING OR HOLDING BUTTONS
ON GARMENTS WHILE IN USE."
Sealed the 6th January 1857, and dated the 9th July 1856.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Timothy Jerome at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
9th July 1856.
I, TIMOTHY JEROME, of 125, Great Hampton Street, Birmingham, in the
County of Warwick, Button Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of
my said Invention for "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN BUTTONS FOR ORNAMENTING
AND FASTENING DRESSES, AS ALSO IN LOOPS FOR ATTACHING OR HOLDING BUTTONS ON
GARMENTS WHILE IN USE," to be as follows (that is to say):-
My first improvement refers to buttons of an ornamental character, appli;
cable for ladys' or gentlemens, wear, according to the style in which they are
made up, and consists in the application to a common covered button of a
centre ornament, which ornament may be composed of precious stones, glass,
ivory, bone, wood, or other suitable material, secured to the back part by
means of an auxiliary shell, covered with a flexible material or a metallic stud

page_text: or the centre may be covered with an, ornamental woven fabric. In some
instances such buttons may be sewn on by means of a flexible shank behind,
or sewn through and through from the front, or applied to the garment by
means of a metal shank and loop, to be hereafter described; or the button
and front ornament may be held together by a silken cord, formed into a loop
at the back, by which it may be attached.
My second improvement in buttons is what is called vest buttons, and con-
sists in setting pearl, ivory, bone, wood, or other suitable ornamental fronts
into a metallic shell, such shell being covered with a woven fabric round the
edge.
Thirdly, my improvements relate to what are called shirt or linen buttons,
intended to be attached to the garment by being sewn through and through
from the front, the thread by which it is attached not only passing through the
front and back fabric, but-also-riding-on-a-small wire bar, by which much
strength with neatness is obtained.
Fourthly,.my improvements relate to what are called, trouser buttons, and
consists in sinking a cavity in, a 'round disc, to be subsèquently finished by
applying a small, disc, with a bar or holes to the centre cavity for securing it
to the garment, and finishing the front with an ornamental shell or covering.
in any suitable way.
And my improvements in button loops consist in cutting out a ring from
sheet metal, with a bar so placed that it shall pass through the eye or shank
of the button with a spring catch, and when such loops are made of wire, I
propose making them somewhat in the form of the letter S, with an inden-
tation in the middle for the shank to ride on.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said. Timothy Jerome in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
9th January 1857.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, TIMOTHY
JEROME, of 125,- Great Hampton Street, Birmingham, in the County of
-Warwick, Button Manufacturer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Ninth day of July, in the year of our Lord One
.thousand eight hundred and fifty-six, in: the twentieth year of Her reign,
did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the said
Timothy Jerome, Her special: license that I, the said Timothy. Jerome, my

page_text: executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Timothy
Jerome, my executors, administrators, or assigns, should at any time agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the
term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel
Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN BUTTONS
FOR ORNAMENTING AND FASTENING DRESSES, AS ALSO IN LOOPS FOR ATTACHING. OR
HOLDING BUTTONS ON. GARMENTS WHILE IN USE," upon the condition (amongst
others). that I, the said Timothy Jerome, by an instrument in writing under
my hand and seal, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the
said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause
the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months
next and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Timothy Jerome, do hereby declare the
nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statements (that is to say):-
The nature and purpose of the first part of my improvements in. buttons
has for its object the rendering them more ornamental in their appearance, at
the same time the method of making admits of the style or character of the
button being greatly diversified, such buttons being applicable for ladies'
dresses or gentlemens' coats, according to the manner in which they may be.
made up.
The second part of my improvements in buttons relates to such as may be
termed vest buttons, and consists in covering the shell or. back and edge. of:
such buttons with a woven fabric,, and, applying to the same suitable slank,
flexible or otherwise, the front or centre being. composed of real or artificial
precious stones, pearl, ivory, bone, glass, wood, or other suitable hard compact
material, capable of being polished or otherwise nicely finished on its surface,
moulded, cut, or otherwise formed.
And, thirdly, my improvments refer to the description of buttons known as
shirt or linen buttons,, such buttons being intended to be secured by being
sewn through and through from the front, and made in such a manner that
a small wire bar is placed across the shank hole or openings in the shell and
disk at the back of the button for the thread by which the button is attached.
to ride on, the bar being held by a rim or flange formed around the hole. of
the front or back shell, or, passed through the fabric forming the centre of the
back.
.. Fourthly, my improvements relate to the class of buttons used for fastening.

page_text: or securing trowsers, and known as trowsers' buttons, and my improvements
in such description of buttons consists in the form of the back, and in the
manner of 'forming the holes, so as to avoid cutting the thread by which they
may be attached; as also in the manner of putting the parts together of which
such buttons are composed, so as to form a shoulder or neck at the back for
the garment to ride on.
And, lastly, my improvements relate to metallic loops for attaching buttons
to such garments as are usually submitted to the process of washing, whereby
the buttons may be readily removed for that purpose. And my improvements
in such loops consist, first, in cutting them out from sheet metal in such a
form that a bar is provided for passing through the eye or shank of the
button, where it is retained by a spring catch; and in cases where economy
is an object, I form button loops somewhat in the form of the letter S or
figure of 8, with an indentation in the middle for the shank of the button to
ride on.
This kind of loop would do well made from wire planished down
at the indentation in the middle; but as my several improvements will be
best understood by referring to the Drawings hereunto, annexed, I will proceed
to describe the same, reference being made to the figures and letters marked
thereon, that is to say :-
Under the head of Figure 1, I have represented in a front, back, and edge
view, as also the parts in detail, of a button constructed in conformity with the
first part of these my improvements in dress fastenings. A is the front view,
B the back, and C the edge view. The centre of the button marked a may
be composed of pearl, ivory, precious stones, glass, cut, moulded, or otherwise
formed, or of metal or polished steel, or any other suitable material set within
a shell covered with a woven fabric, represented here coloured blue, the shell,
itself being represented in a detached front and back view at b and c. This
shell may be made of metal, and in that case a rim or eyelet may be formed
in its centre in the ordinary way; but when composed of thin sheet iron (the
material usually used for covered button shells), and it not being so ductile as
metal, I prefer cutting the centre at right angles, somewhat in the manner
shewn at b; the four parts may now be forced down at right angles with the.
plane of the shell without any risk of their being broken off. I wish to
particularize this part, because I shall be obliged to hereafter refer to it.
d represents a back view of the front shell (of the body) of the button covered
with a woven fabric, as represented, colored red in the front view, marked A.
The manner in which these parts are put together will be understood by
referring to D, which represents a sectional view of the top shell b, also the
woven fabric, colored blue,. with which its edge is covered, together with a

page_text: sectional view of the shell, marked d (in the detached view), with its fabric
covering, coloured red; and the manner in which these parts are held together
is by the eyelet or raised part formed on the under side of the shell 6 being
passed through the hole e in the centre of the shell d, and then thrown over,
in the ordinary manner in which common eyelets are treated when used or
applied. The fabric used for covering the edge of the smaller concentric shell
is brought over its edge and tucked or gathered in, and is held down by a
metallic disc placed within it, or by the centre ornament itself, and so with
the fabric colored red, which must be gathered in on the back of the button,
in the ordinary way in which covered buttons are made, but which may be
greatly varied, according to the manner they may be intended to be applied.
In this instance I have represented the button as made with an ordinary
metal disc at the back, and tuft or flexible shank. This being a general
description of the nature and character of this part of my improvements, I
wish to observe that the same is capable of being greatly diversified both in
shape and character as well as in the mode of connecting the parts together,
and also in the manner in which they may be applied to garments. As, for
instance, Figure 2 represents the front view of a button with a centre orna-
ment identical with the one represented at A, Figure 1; but instead of being
fastened to a shell covered with a woven fabric, it is here represented as
secured to a disc, which may be composed of pearl, ivory, bone, or other
suitable material, and the said disc may or may not be set or fixed into a
suitable shell covered around its edge with a woven fabric, as here represented
colored red.
Figure 3 represents in a front, back, and sectional view, a button with the
centre or auxiliary shell or disc covered with a woven fabric, and instead
of applying a tuft shank to this button, which may be necessary in some
instances, I have represented the back as covered with a strong suitable
fabric, so that the button may be sewn on by passing the needle in and out
of it, in the ordinary manner in which such buttons are fastened to ladies'
dresses, or a hole may be made in the centre of the front shell, and the button
may be secured by being sewn through and through from the front.
Figure 4 represents a detached sectional view of a button to be made and
put together identically in the same way as the one last described, with the
exception that the front shell is raised into a globular or bulbous shape, filled.
with suitable packing or otherwise.
Figure 5 is also a sectional view of a button in its detached parts, shewing
that the parts may be held together by a metallic loop, and the stud in the
front attached to the loop may be burnished, gilded, or otherwise ornamented,

page_text: or an auxiliary ornament may be used of polished steel, the shank being
passed through it before passing through the pearl or other material, marked f,
the woven fabric being tucked in and held in the same manner as exhibited
at A, Figure 1, the back being finished in the manner as représented in the
back view, Figure 3, or otherwise, as desired.
Figure 6 represents another form of button under this head of my improve-
ments; represented in a detached sectional and complete side view, a button
suitable for ladies' dresses, and put together in 'the manner as before described,
with the exception that the raised eyelet for holding the back and front shell's
together is in this instance formed on what may be called the back part of
the button, and is passed through a hole in the front shell, where it is thrown
over, thus securing the two shells together, the front being, as in the last
instance, of pearl, ivory, or other suitable material, which may be further
ornamented with a metallic stud, as exhibited at g, the cord by which the
button may be attached to the garment being first secured to the shank of
the metal stud, or otherwise, as required.
Figure 7 represents a sectional and front view of my improvements in what
are termed vest buttons, which consist in making the fronts of such buttons of
pearl, ivory, bone, precious and artificial stones, &c., and instead of setting
such fronts in metallic rims, which has been the usual practice, I set them in a
shell covered on the edge with a woven fabric, applying metalic or flexible
shanks to them, the latter being here represented'; but I do not confine myself
to any particular shank, metalic or flexible, as they may be fastened together"
by a metallic centre ornament, as exhibited at Figure 5, or at g, Figure 6; or a
hole or holes may be made through the front pearl, ivory: or other material,
and the button secured to the garment by being sewn through from the front:
I do not prohibit myself in this description of button from using a metallic
ring around the pearl or other centre, the whole being encompassed within a
shell covered around its edge with a woven fabric.
Figure 8 represents a button constructed in accordance with my improve-
ments named under the third head, and is what is called shirt or linen buttons:
E is a front view, and F the back view, and consists of a front and back shell
or disc, the front shell being raised at the rim for lapping over and clipping
the back shell or disc. In the process of making the both shells are covered
(by means of suitable well-known tools) with the linen, dowlas, or other fabric
of which it may be desirable to cover such bottoms, and in covering the back
the material is pressed inwards through the centre hole of the shell or disc in a
kind of teat form, and in this state a small metal piece is passed through the
projecting part, as represented at G, which is an inside view of the back of the

page_text: button, shewing the fabric gathered in around the edge of the disc, as well as
protruding through the centre hole, and there retained by the pin K, K,
passing through it, the pin being supplied by being firmly held between the
discs when put together; thus, the only portion of metal that is visible in the
finished button is a part of the wire pin or bar, as seen in the back view F,
marked k,k. This button is intended to be secured to the garment by being
sewed through and through from the front, the bar affording much additional
strength, as it forms a support for the thread to ride on by which the button is
attached. As a modification of this button, I sometimes use an additional
fabric on the inside, and sometimes raise a rim around the centre holes of
either or both the 'metallic shell and disc, which rim may be pierced for
receiving the pin, the rim or rims being subsequently turned down, forming a
nice round edge for the material (of which the button may be covered) to rest
on, thus preventing the possibility of the fabric being cut by the raw edges;
and this mode of making, while it does not in the least degree alter the
external appearance of the button, conduces much to the production of a neat,
strong, and economic button.
Figure 9 represents a back, front, and sectional view of a trowser button,
as named under the fourth head of my improvements, and consist of a front
and back shell so farmed (as seen by the section), that when put together a
round fullness is given to the part that surrounds the hales through which the
thread passes for securing such buttons to the garments on which they
are worn.
Figure 10 represents the same description of button in front, back, and
sectional view, stamped or raised from sheet metal or iron, or otherwise formed,
so as to form a neck for the garment to ride on; and at the back a kind of
eyelet is applied, marked s, s, in the section, by which means the small dise
marked t is held in that 'contains the holes through which the thread' passes
for securing the button to the garment on which it may be worn; but I do
not confine myself to the use of this metal disc, as a simple bar or bars may
be used; or a woven fabric, either by itself or in combination with a metal bar
or bars may be inserted and secured in the same way in which the: 'disc t
is held.
The last part of my improvements refer to what are called button loops,
necessary as a means
of attaching buttons to garments that require' washing,
as the buttons may be with facility applied or detached, and my improvement
in such loops has for its object the increasing or spreading the bearing or
internal resistance necessary for holding the button firmly on the garment when
in use. To obtain this object in button loops, I cut them out of sheet metal of

page_text: the form exhibited at L, Figure 11, the projecting part p being bent under in
the form shewn at M, the double divisional bar being planished down in the
middle for the eye of the button to ride on, in the form exhibited at r, this
being a section of the loop taken through the dotted line q, q.
In passing the ends of the bar through the eye of the button, it is necessary
to spring the bars apart and pass the lower one first through the eye, when the
bars will spring together, and the button will ride on the planished or indented
part, the circular rim of the loop bearing flat and compact on the inside of
the garment. As a modification of this plan, I propose, in some instances, to cut
them out from sheet metal in the form exhibited at N, Figure 12, and close the
circular part together again, as exhibited at O, the bar being subsequently bent
over, as exhibited at P. An edge view of this loop so formed is exhibited at Q.
It is not positively necessary that the bar u should extend beyond the circum-
ference of the circle, and for economy, in some instances, they may be so made;
in that case the bar must not be bent at the end, and instead of the circular
part being closed in on the top of the bar, they must be brought together on its
under side, or the part that is planished down for the eye of the button to rest
upon must be reversed to the position here shewn.
Fig. 13 represents a button loop as being somewhat of the form of the
letter S, or Figure 8, and which form it may truly assume, but for convenience
I have given to it a circular shape, the part or bar on which the button rides
taking a position across its centre. This form of loop, for economy,
I propose
making of wire, planished or otherwise finished; but they can, like the others,
be cut out from sheet metal with great facility and without much waste; and
by way of general remark, I may observe that all the Figures in the Drawing
are drawn larger than they are usually made, for the purpose of better defining
the several parts.
Having thus described the nature of these my improvements in dress
fastenings, and the manner in which the same may be carried into effect,
I wish it understood that I do not confine myself to any particular shape, size,
or proportion, or fabrics, or color of fabrics with which the same may be
finished, as the whole of the first and second parts of my improvements are
capable of considerable modification; but what I claim as my Invention is,―
Firstly, the introduction to buttons, as exhibited at Figure 1, of a centre
ornament of pearl, ivory, precious stones, or other suitable material, the same
being set in an auxiliary shell, such shell being covered on its edge with
a woven fabric, without any regard to the form or character of the shank by
which such buttons may be attached.
Secondly, I claim the description of button described and exhibited at Figure 2.

page_text: Thirdly, I claim the description of button described and exhibited at Figures
3 and 4, without any regard to shape, size, or the material with which the
same may be covered.
Fourthly, I claim the description of button exhibited at Figure 5, without
confining myself to the use of the top shell, as the pearl, ivory, or other front
may be attached to the back shell by a shank or loop, as here represented, and
may be made either with flexible or metallic shanks.
Fifthly, I claim the description of buttons described and exhibited at Figure
6, and which exhibits the facility with which a steel or metallic ornament may
be applied to such description of buttons.
Sixthly, I claim the description of vest button described and exhibited at
Figure 7, whether such buttons be further ornamented with metallic centres or
not; nor do I confine myself to the particular shank, or manner in which such
buttons may be fastened on the garments.
Seventhly, I claim the description of button as described and exhibited
at Figure 8, without any regard to size or the particular material with which
the same may be covered, the said button being fastened to the garment
by being sewed through and through.
Eighthly, I claim the description of trowser buttons exhibited at Figures 9
and 10, without confining myself to the exact shape here exhibited, provided
the general character or mode of construction is adhered to.
And, lastly, I claim the manner and form of making button loops described
and exhibited at Figures 11, 12, and 13, whether the same be made from sheet
metal, wire, or steel, and finished by gilding, electro-plating, or in any other
suitable manner.
In witness whereof, I, the said Timothy Jerome, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Eighth day of January, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-seven.
0 Witness,
W. H. CROWTHER,
Clerk to J. S. Cockings.
TIMOTHY JEROME. (L.S.)