An Improved Mode of Ornamenting Fabrics and Garments.
Year: 1890

page_text: Date of Application, 7th Nov., 1890
Complete Specification Left, 7th Sept., 1891-Accepted. 10th Oct. 1891
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
An Improved Mode of Ornamenting Fabrics and Garments.
I, ELIZA TURCK of 7 St. George's Square, Primrose Hill, in the County of
Middlesex, Artist, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to he as
follows:-
The object of this invention is to obtain, in a more economical manner than
heretofore, the effect of embroidered appliqué by means of the brush, and having
advantages not hitherto secured in such ornamentation. To this end, I take, say, a
woollen or a silk fabric, and having strained it over a table, I proceed to trace
thereon the design which is to be applied in colours.
Suppose a Japanese design is required, having as a leading feature a dragon, I
apply, as a ground colour, within the lines of the figure, a tint somewhat darker
than that of the fabric. The tint will consist of an aniline or other dye, brought
to a suitable consistency to prevent it running when applied with a brush.
When the tinted portion of the fabric is dry, it will be ready to receive the
detail markings, which I make in appropriate colours with oil paints prepared as here-
after described, to render the same flexible when dry. In some cases, I also employ
bronze powders of various shades, to heighten the effect; these are mixed with a
medium that protects them from tarnishing.
The ornament thus produced may have any desired degree of artistic finish; the
result being obtained without showing any indication of overweighted ornamenta-
tion, such as is observable in sacerdotal robes decorated with moulded patterns. In
applying my invention to silk robes or fabrics, the appliqué ground, by leaving
unobscured the lustre of the silk, presents a good contrast to the oil colour, which
represents the embroidery. In carrying out a floral decoration after the conven-
tional type, I may tint the ground for the leaves, buds, and flowers, according to
the appropriate colours, taking care however to retain the style peculiar to
embroidery or brocade, and distinct from that of painting.
By this mode of procedure, I am enabled to produce, with great expedition,
ornamentation that will have no tendency to crack or peel off, and which will give
ess stiffness to a garment than embroidered appliqué would impart.
The proper condition of the dye I secure by mixing therewith a solution in water
f gum ghatti, gum tragacanth, glycerine, and ox gall; and the softening of the oil
olours I obtain by adding thereto a medium composed of hard paraffin dissolved
n turpentine. The bronze powders are mixed with a medium composed of equal
arts, copal varnish, crystal varnish, terebine dryer, and turpentine. The decora-
on stands ordinary careful washing, and is therefore applicable to linen and other
ashing materials.
Dated this 7th day of November 1890.
NEWTON & SON,
Agents for the Applicant.

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
An Improved Mode of Ornamenting Fabrics and Garments.
1, ELIZA TURCK of 7 St. George's Square, Primrose Hill in the County of
Middlesex, Artist, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in
and by the following statement :-
The main object of this invention is to obtain, in a more economical manner than
heretofore, the effect of embroidered appliqué by means of the brush, and having
advantages not hitherto secured in such ornamentation.
In attaining this object, I take, say, a woollen or a silk fabric, and having
strained it on a table, I proceed to trace thereon the design which is to be applied
in colours.
Suppose a Japanese design is required, having, as a leading feature, a dragon, I
apply, as a ground colour, within the outlines of the figure, a tint somewhat darker
than that of the fabric. The tint will consist of an aniline or other dye, brought
to a suitable consistency to prevent its running when applied with a brush.
When the tinted portion of the fabric is dry, it will be ready to receive the
detail markings, which I make in appropriate colours with oil paints prepared as
hereafter described, so as to render the same flexible when dry.
In some cases, I also employ bronze powders of various shades, to heighten the
effect; these are mixed with a medium that prevents them from tarnishing. The
ornament thus produced may have any desired degree of artistic finish, the result
being obtained without showing any indication of overweighted ornamentation, such
as is observable in sacerdotal robes decorated with moulded patterns.
In applying my invention to silk robes or curtains, the appliqué ground, by
leaving unobscured the lustre of the silk, presents a good contrast to the oil colour,
which represents the embroidery. In carrying out a floral decoration after the
conventional type, I may tint the ground for the leaves, buds, and flowers, accord-
ing to the appropriate colours, taking care, however, to retain the style peculiar
to embroidery, or brocade, and distinct from that of painting.
By this mode of procedure, I am enabled to produce with great expedition,
ornamentation which will give less stiffness to a garment than embroidered appliqué
would impart, and will have no tendency to crack or peel off; and in preparing
hangings in lieu of tapestry, I am enabled to obtain like artistic effects in one tenth
of the time required for working tapestry.
The proper thickening of the dye liquor used for the ground colour, I obtain by
mixing with it, preferably at the time it is required for use, a gelatinous compound
prepared in the manner described below, and used in about the proportions
described below, that is to say, I take 1 quart of the dye liquor, brought to the
required tint, and mix therewith 1 pints of a thick solution of gum ghatti, 1 pints
of a thick solution of Iceland moss, pint of liquid ox gall, and one ounce of
glycerine. Incase it is desired to store this mixture in stock bottles, I add thereto,
to preserve the mixture from deterioration, a pint of methylated spirit, and of
an ounce of nitro-benzole.
The softening of the oil colours which I employ for bringing out the details of
the drawing, I obtain by mixing with the colours on the palette, a small proportion
of a composition which I prepare as follows:-
To 1 oz. of hard German paraffine, melted with heat in one quart of spirits of
turpentine, I add two ounces of terebine dryer.
The bronze powders I mix with a medium composed of equal parts copal varnish,
crystal varnish, and turpentine, with the addition of terebine dryer, equal in
quantity to about one twelfth of the mixed medium, sufficient to bring them to the
consistency of oil paint, and 1 thus provide not merely for the firm adhesion

page_text: powder from the tarnishing action of the atmosphere.
to the fabric to be decorated, but also protect the bronze
Decorations effected by the means above described, will stand ordinary careful
washing. The process is therefore applicable not merely to silks, but to linen and
other washing materials.
I find also that the floral decorations now commonly applied to fans, may be
produced with good effect, by the above described process, the sheen of the satin
and the transparency of the gauze being clearly discernible through the ground tints,
while the flexibility of the colours avoids all risk of their peeling off.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, declare that what I
claim is :-
The process of producing decorations on woven and felted fabrics, as and for the
purpose above described.
Dated this 7th day of September 1891.
NEWTON & SON,
Agents for the Applicant.