IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES
Year: 1870

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Henri Adrien Bonneville, of the British and
Foreign Patent Offices, 18, Chaussée d'Antin, Paris, in the Empire
of France, and 10, Sackville Street, Piccadilly, in the County of
Middlesex, Patent Agent, for the Invention of IMPROVEMENTS IN
SEWING MACHINES."-A communication from Jean Sabot, residing at
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Henri Adrien Bonneville
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on
the 23rd May 1870.
I, HENRI ADRIEN BONNEVILLE, of the British and Foreign Patent
Offices, 18, Chaussée d'Antin, Paris, in the Empire of France, and 10,
Sackville Street, Piccadilly, in the County of Middlesex, Patent Agent,
do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS
IN SEWING MACHINES," communicated to me by Jean Sabot, a person
resident at St. Etienne, in the Empire of France, Mechanic, to be as
follows:-

page_text: This Invention, communicated to me, relates to an improved sewing
machine, whose distinctive feature is its capability to execute all the
different stitches made in sewing, properly so called, that is to say, as
determined by Fig. 8 in the accompanying Drawings, viz., the slip
stitch, the back stitch, the side stitch, and the overcast stitch.
The needle has two points, and at its middle three eyes, in each of
which is passed the needle thread, so as to maintain this thread without
having to make a knot. As soon as the needle thread is finished the
needle is again threaded as in ordinary hand sewing. This needle a
passes right through the stuff, placed at M, N, Fig. 1 and 2, and is
abandonned by a needle pincer 6, placed above it, to be seized by
another needle pincer 6' placed underneath the same, and vice versa,
both the said needle pincers having a vertical up-and-down movement.
This transmission is operated in a very certain manner, for the needle
pincers are arranged, as seen separately and on a larger scale, Fig. 5,
to work with mathematical precision. Thus a double lever c, whose
fulcrum is at c¹³, presses the needle at the desired moment with its bent
part c² against the fixed part d of the needle pincer, when in its vertical
movement, the upper part c³ of the double lever comes in friction with
the roller e placed and fixed near to the needle pincer; but when, as
soon as it has reached its extreme limit in its descending movement,
the roller no longer retains the upper part of said double lever, it is
then acted by a spring f, and the needle thus escapes.
This alternate transmission of the needle from one needle pincer to
the other is decidedly one of the most important features in this
machine, but the greatest improvement, in a practical sense, of this
Invention is the means by which the thread is drawn to tighten the
stitch, for it should be born in mind that to be practical the machine
should work rapidly; it is necessary that this manoeuvre of drawing
the thread to tighten the stitch be executed quickly. With this
view a system has been conceived, by means of which this movement
instead of being repeated each time the needle passes is only effected
once to every two stitches. Thus the oscillating draw hook 9, whose
fulcrum is at g¹, hooks the thread and draws it along, describing in the
transit an arc of a circle, so as to tighten the two last stitches made
at the instant the needle enters from above. When the needle enters
from below the thread hangs. An auxilliary hook has been added to
this draw hook, which at the moment said draw hook operates takes

page_text: the position indicated by red lines R in the Drawings, and within reach
of the thread which comes round in order to be brought horizontally
within reach of the draw hook when this hook is raised to recommence
the operation. As the needle passes continually in the same vertical
line it is evident that to obtain any desired form of stitch it iss.
incumbent to move the stuff. so as to give it the necessary poses in
relation to the action of the needle. The presser foot m has the ordinary
backway movement which sends the stuff forwards by means of a
driver N,. which driver acts vertically and determines, by passing on to
a little roller o, the pressure of the presser foot holder m (see Fig. 4,
executed on an amplified scale); said presser foot m has also its up-
and-down movement by means of the double lever P (see Fig. 2), and
the side movement for the overcast stitch and the side stitch by means
of the double lever P'; these double levers can produce the well-
regulated even movements required for stitches in sewing by means of
rotating plates, represented on a larger scale, Fig. 7. According to
whether it be desired to execute the slip or running, the back, the side,.
or the overcast stitch, one of the three loose plates No. 1, 2, or 3, must
be placed on the shaft r of the machine.
The machine is worked by means of the pedal R, Fig. 2, or by the
handle S, Fig. 3. The double lever which imparts the up-and-down
movement to the needle pincer is regulated by the rotation of the
grooved wheel operated by the pinion t (see Fig. 1) by means of the
connecting rods or rollers U¹. The movement of the draw hook is
operated by the bent shaft V, which by means of the connecting rod x
draws forward or repels the rod y at right angles with the draw hook,
which can then take the position indicated in red lines Y. By means
of the half circle T, when the draw hook is lowered to draw the thread,
the auxilliary hook / advances, as has been already said, and necessarily
it is replaced in its original position when the draw hook begins its
upward movement.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Henri Adrien Bonneville in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 23rd November 1870.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, HENRI
ADRIEN BONNEVILLE, of the British and Foreign Patent Offices, 18,

page_text: Chaussée d'Antin, Paris, in the Empire of France, and 10, Sackville
Street, Piccadilly, in the County of Middlesex, Patent Agent, send
greeting.
.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Twenty-first day of May, one the
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy, in the
thirty-third year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and
successors, give and grant unto me, the said Henri Adrien Bonneville,
Her special licence, that I, the said Henri Adrien Bonneville, my
executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said
Henri Adrien Bonneville, my executors, administrators, and assigns,
shall at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and
at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and
lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United
Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle
of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES," com-
municated to me by Jean Sabot, a person resident at St. Etienne, in
the Empire of France, Mechanic, upon the condition (amongst others)
that I, the said Henri Adrien Bonneville, my executors or administrators,
by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands
and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the
said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and
cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six
calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters
Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Henri Adrien Bonneville, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same
is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement thereof, reference being had to the Drawing
hereunto annexed, that is to say :-
This Invention, communicated to me, relates to an improved sewing
machine whose distinctive feature is its capability to execute all the
different stitches made in sewing, properly so called, that is to say, as
determined by Fig. 8 in the accompanying Drawing, viz., a slip stitch,
the back stitch, the sido stitch, and the overcast stitch.
The needle has two points, and at its middle three eyes, in each of
which is passed the needle thread so as to maintain this thread without
having to make a knot. As soon as the needle thread is finished the

page_text: needle is again threaded as in the ordinary hand sewing. This needle a
passes right through the stuff placed at m, n, Fig. 1 and 2, and is
abandoned by a needle pincer 6 placed above it to be seized by another
needle pincer 6 placed underneath the same, and vice versa, both the
said needle pincers having a vertical up-and-down movement. This
transmission is operated in a very certain manner, for the needle pincers
are arranged as seen separately and on a larger scale, Fig. 5, to work
with mathematical precision. Thus a double lever c, whose fulcrum is
at c pressed the needle at the desired moment with its ben't part o
against the fixed part d of the needle pincer when in its vertical move-
ment the upper part of the double lever comes in friction with a
rollere placed and fixed near to the needle pincer, but when as soon as
it has reached its extreme limit on its descending movement the roller
no longer retains the upper part of the said double lever it is then
acted by a spring and the needle thus escapes.
This alternate transmission of the needle from one needle pincer to
the other is decidedly one of the most important features in this machine,
but the greatest improvement in a practical sense of this Invention is
the means by which the thread is drawn to tighten the stitch, for it
should be borne in mind that to be practical the machine should work
rapidly. It is necessary that this manouvre of drawing the thread to
tighten the stitch be executed quickly; with this view a system has
been conceived, by means of which this movement, instead of being
repeated each time the needle passes, is only effected once to every two
stitches. Thus the osculating draw hook g whose fulcrum is at g¹ hooks
the thread and draws it along, describing in the transit an arc of a circle
so as to tighten the instant the needle enters from above, when the
needle enters from below the thread hangs. An auxiliary hook / has
been added to this draw hook, which at the moment the draw hook
operates takes the position indicated by the lines R in the Drawings,
and within reach of the thread which comes round in order to be
brought horizontally within reach of the draw hook when this hook is
raised to recommence the operation. As the needle passes continually
in the same vertical line it is evident that to obtain any desired form of
stitch it is incumbent to move the stuff so as to give it the necessary
poses in relation to the action of the needle. The presser foot m has
the ordinary back way movement, which sends the stuff forward by
means of a driver n, which driver acts vertically, determines by passing

page_text: on to a little roller o the presser of the presser foot holder m, see Fig. 4
(executed on an amplified scale), the said presser foot m has also its up-
and-down movement by means of the double lever P (see Fig. ), and the
side movement for the overcast stitch and the side stitch by means of
the double lever P. These double levers can produce the well-regulated
even movements required for stitches. in sewing by means of rotating
plates represented on a larger scale, Fig. 7. According to whether it be
desired to execute the slip, or running the back, the side, or the overcast
stitch, one of the three loose plates Nos. 1, 2, or 3 must be placed on the
shaft R of the machine.
The machine is worked by means of the pedal R, Fig. 2, or by the
handle S, Fig. 3. The double lever which imparts the up-and-down
movement to the needle pincer is regulated by the rotation of the grooved
wheelt operated by the pinion t (see Fig. 1) by means of the connecting
rods or rollers. The movement of the draw hook is operated by the
bent shaft v, which by means of the connecting rod x draws forward
or repels the rod y at right angles with the draw hook, which can take
the position indicated in red lines y. By means of the half circle T
to draw the thread, the auxiliary hook h advances, as has been already
said, and necessarily it is replaced in its original position when the draw
hook begins its upward movement.
And having now described the nature of the said Invention, and in
what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that I claim the
general construction and arrangement of the sewing machine above
described and illustrated in the accompanying Drawings, characterized
especially by its ability to execute various stitches required when
scwing.
In witness whereof, I, the said Henri Adrien Bonneville, have
hereunto set my hand and seal, this Twenty-fifth day of September
One thousand eight hundred and seventy.