Year: 1888

page_text: Date of Application, 20th July, 1888
Complete Specification Left, 10th Sept., 1888
Complete Specification Accepted, 12th Oct., 1888
I, THOMAS HAWKINS, of 466 West 20th Street, in the City, County and State of
New York, United States of America, Inventor, do hereby declare the nature of this
Invention to be as follows:-
This invention consists in a set of charts of novel configuration, having suitable
arbitrary scales and figures imprinted thereon for outlining severally and in combina-
tion the different parts of a ladies garment and obtaining correct sizes and shapes
thereof in accordance with the measurement taken of the person to be fitted.
In carrying out the invention, a sheet of thin, stiff material, preferably of tough
paste-board, is used for the body of the charts or scale-sheets. The lower side or edge
of the main chart or scale-sheet is cut straight to represent what is designated as a
"Waist-Line." The left edge is cut to form the "Front Shape," its lower portion
being nearly straight at a right angle with the "waist-line," and its upper portion
somewhat curved inward.
The right edge of the chart-sheet is cut to describe a slight concave curve to form
the "Side Body" line, whilst the top or upper edge of the sheet is cut to form the
"Arm-Hole Shape" in an irregular form beginning at the right, first for a short
distance in a straight line parallel with the lower edge or waist-line," then continued
in a peculiar inward or concave curve extending upwardly above a horizontal line
extending through the right hand corner of the sheet and terminating at a point above,
in a vertical line extending through the centre of the sheet. From the upper point of
this "arm-hole shape" curve, the edge is cut horizontally towards the left in a reverse
curve to form the "Front Shoulder "line, and is connected with the left hand edge of
the sheet by a downwardly-extended concave curve to form the "Neck" line.
The applications of the measurements to these several lines is determined by means
of suitable scales imprinted in connection therewith upon the chart-sheet, holes being
punched through the chart in connection with the figures upon these scales so that the
proper measurements may be dotted with a pencil through the holes upon a pattern-
sheet of paper placed under the chart-sheet, the edges of the chart-sheet being used to
form the outlines of the pattern in connection with lines drawn from dot to dot.

page_text: To delineate by my invention the pattern lines for the "darts," the "back-shoulder,”
the "side-form," the "arm-shape" and the "sleeves" of the garment, auxiliary charts
are provided to be used in combination with the foregoing main chart.
These like the main sheet, are constructed of thin flat sheets of stiff-material,
preferably tough paste-board.
<<
The auxiliary Dart-Chart" has a straight lower edge, with straight ends at right
angles thereto, the right hand end being shorter than the left, and the upper edge is
in the form of a convex curve the left portion of which serves as a "dart rule," whilst
the right gives the "side form," these curves being used to mark out the parts to
which they are related after the dots appropriate thereto have been marked upon the
paper pattern. The scale of measurements for the front and back "darts" are
indicated on the lower edge at the left, and a scale of inches is marked on the right
end of same edge. A curved, slotted opening is cut out centrally in one end of
this dart-chart by which to mark out the "arm-shape
narrow extended slot, having one edge straight and the opposite edge in the form of a
of the "back-body," and a
reverse curve, is cut out in the other end of the same chart, said reverse curve being
designed to give the form of the back of the shoulder. Both slots serve as guides to
mark the outlines upon the pattern.
دو
The auxiliary "Sleeve-Chart" is constructed with a shorter side or edge having a
concave curve, and a longer side or edge diverging from the first and following a long,
reversed curve with its convex portion opposite the concavity of the shorter edge. The
wide end of this chart is made with a peculiar curve whilst the opposite narrow end is
cut straight at about a right angle with the shorter side. The external configuration
of this sleeve-chart is appropriate to the form of the "upper" sleeve piece, whilst the
form of the counterpart "under" sleeve piece is delineated in black lines upon the 2
chart together with the various scales appropriate for measuring and laying out sleeves
of different forms and sizes.
By means of the main chart in combination with these auxiliary charts I have a
simple, convenient and absolutely accurate device for a perfect tailor system of dress-
cutting, embodying all the outlines and rules by which a proper pattern may be 3
quickly and readily drawn after the measurements of the person to be fitted have been
properly taken so that the garment cut out from said pattern will fit perfectly.
Dated this 6th day of July 1888.

page_text: I, THOMAS HAWKINS, of 466 West 20th Street, in the City, County and State of
New York, United States of America, Inventor, do hereby declare the nature of this
Invention and in what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly described
and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
This invention consists in a set of charts of novel configuration, having suitable
arbitrary scales and figures imprinted thereon for outlining severally and in combina-
tion the different parts of a lady's garment and obtaining correct sizes and shapes
thereof in accordance with the measurements taken of the person to be fitted.
In the accompanying drawings:-
Figure 1, represents on a reduced scale the main chart.
Figure 2, the auxiliary sleeve chart and,
Figure 3, the auxiliary dart-rule chart.
These charts are imprinted upon sheets of thin, stiff material, preferably tough
paste-board..
One side or edge of the main chart or scale-sheet Figure 1, is cut in a straight
line a, and is designated as the "Back-form" line.
The side edge c to the left thereof is designated as the "Front-Shape" line, and
is cut with its lower portion nearly straight at a right angle with the back-formi line,
and its upper portion somewhat curved inward.
The side edge a-d on the right, is cut to describe a slight concave curve to form
the "Side-Body" line, whilst the top or upper edge of the sheet is cut to form
the "Arm Hole Shape" in an irregular line extending from the right, first for a short
distance in a straight line de, parallel with the lower edge or back form" line,
then continued in a peculiar inward or concave curve ef, reaching upwardly above
a horizontal line extending through the upper right hand corner d of the sheet nearly
to the height of the opposite corner c. From the upper portion of this "arm hole
shape" curve, the edge of the sheet is cut diagonally upward towards the left in a
slightly reverse curve f-g to form the "Front Shoulder" line, and is connected with
the left hand upper corner c by a downwardly-extended concave curve g―e to form
the "Neck" line.
The application of the measurements of the person to be fitted, to these several lines,
is determined by means of a series of scales imprinted in connection with said lines
upon the chart-sheet, and severally designated thereon by letters and numerals.
Holes, represented in the drawings by round black dots, are punched through the
chart in connection with the figures upon these scales, so that the proper measure-
ments may be dotted with a pencil through the holes upon a pattern-sheet of paper
placed under the chart-sheet, the edges of the chart-sheet being used to form the
outlines of the several patterns in connection with lines drawn from dot to dot.

page_text: The large letters upon the charts indicate scales relating to the front form in the
pattern and the large numerals to the back-form.
The scale marked 1 upon the main chart Figure 1, is employed, as is hereinafter
described, to determine from the bust measure the width of the neck line on the
pattern for the back piece of a dress.
The scales marked 2 and 3 are employed in conjunction, and in connection with the
bust measure to determine in said back-piece pattern, first the proper position of the
arm hole curve" or shape; second the "back shoulder line ; and third the "side
body line."
"
"
The scales 3 and 4 are employed conjunctively and in connection with the bust
measure in laying out the upper end of the pattern for the side form of the dress.
"
Scale 5, in conjunction with the scales 7 and 7 and the waist measure, determine
the width of the waist-line of the pattern for the back-piece of the dress; and in
"back-form
connection with the under-arm measure determine the angle of the
line in said pattern with the "waist" line; and in connection with the bust measure
the width of the "side-form" of said pattern.
The scale marked A on said main chart is employed in connection with the bust
measure and the front measure to determine the position of the "front-shape" line in
the pattern for the front piece of a dress.
The scales B C D and E in connection with the bust measure, and the scale F in
connection with said bust measure and the under-arm measure, are employed to fix
the points on the pattern by which the "upper-neck," the "shoulder," the "arm hole,"
and the "back" lines are determined thereon.
The series of holes designated on said main chart Figure 1, by the words "Front
Dart" and "Back Dart" are used in connection with the table imprinted thereon and
entitled "Dart Calculation," to determine the proper position for the upper ends of the
darts in the pattern for the front piece of the dress.
To delineate by my invention the pattern lines for the "darts," the "back-shoulder,"
the "side-form," the "arm-shape" and the "sleeves" of the garment, the auxiliary
charts shown in Figures 2 and 3 are provided to be used in combination with the
foregoing main chart.
The auxiliary "Sleeve-chart"-Figure 2-is wider at one end than at the other and
is constructed with an inner side or edge -, having a concave curve, and a longer,
outer side or edge j-k following the long, reversed curve with its convex portion opposite
the concavity of the shorter edge. The wide end of this chart describes a peculiar outward,
convex curve k-h, whilst the opposite narrow end ij is cut straight at about a right
angle with the adjacent end of the shorter side. The external configuration of this
sleeve-chart corresponds to the form of the "upper" sleeve-piece, whilst the form of
the counterpart "under" sleeve-piece, is delineated in black lines -m, and m-h, upon
the chart, together with the various scales appropriate for ineasuring and laying
out sleeves of different forms and sizes.
The terminal scales upon the inner edge A of said sleeve chart are employed to
determine, in connection with the inside sleeve measure, the inside line of the pattern
for the upper part of the sleeve.
The scales E and F thereon serve to determine, in connection with the arm and
cuff measures, the width of the ends of said pattern for the upper part of the
sleeve;
and in connection with the wrist measure, the width of the ends of the
pattern for the under part of the sleeve.
"
The star at the corner of this sleeve-chart and the arrow on the edge designated
as the "
upper sleeve
line, serve to determine, in connection with the elbow
measure, the proper position of the convex elbow curve on the outer edge of the
pattern for the upper part of the sleeve.
"
33
The auxiliary Dart Chart,"-Figure 3,-has a straight lower edge n-o, with
straight ends op, and o-g at right angles thereto, the right hand end o-q being
shorter than the left, o-p, and the upper edge p-qis in the form of a convex curve the
left portion of which serves as a "dart chart" whilst the right gives the "side-form.

page_text: These curves are used to mark out the parts to which they are related after the dots
appropriate thereto have been marked upon the paper pattern. The scale of measure-
ments for the front and back "darts" are indicated on the lower edge at the left, and
a scale of inches is marked on the right end of same edge. A curved, slotted
opening is cut out centrally in one end of this dart-chart by which to mark out
the "arm-shape" of the "back-body," and a narrow extended slot s, having one edge
straight and the opposite edge in the form of a reverse curve, is cut out in the other
end of the same chart, said reverse curve being designed to give the form of the
back of the shoulder. Both slots serve as guides to mark the outlines upon the
pattern.
وو
on this Dart-Rule Chart, are
The scales marked " Front dart" and "Back dart
used in connection with numbers obtained from the "Dart Calculation" table of the
main chart to determine the proper width of the darts on the pattern for the front
piece of the dress, and the edge thereof marked "Dart Rule" is used to mark the
side lines of the darts in said pattern.
The main-chart,--Figure 1,-in combination with the auxiliary charts-Figures
2 and 3,-furnish a simple, convenient and absolutely accurate apparatus embodying
all the outlines and scales required for producing a proper pattern, after the
measurements of the person to be fitted have been properly taken, so that the
garment cut out from said pattern will fit perfectly.
In the use of this invention in laying out the pattern for the back of a dress, &
straight line is drawn as a base across a suitable sheet of pattern paper about
6 inches from its right hand end. This is known as the " Waist line."
The chart is then placed on the paper with the large figures thereon in right position
to be read by the operator. That perforation in scale 7 which is designated by the
figure corresponding with the under-arm measure and the same figure on the opposite
edge of the chart being both brought to the waist line, a dot is made on the paper
through said first perforation and also through the perforation in line with the
figures 22 and 24 according to the greater or less width of waist desired.
Dots are next made through the perforations in the scales 2 and 3 designated by the
figures corresponding with the bust-measure. Then the number of inches in the length
of back are laid off from the waist line up the edge of the chart and the point
marked by an a, and a line is drawn from this mark to the arrow point on
chart.
Up to this time the chart remains stationary. The chart is next turned with
the arrow-point as a centre until its edge touches first spot on waist line and a
line is drawn along said edge.
The division of the scale 1 corresponding with the bust-measure is then placed at
the mark indicating length of back and a dot made through the perforation at said
division and with the inner back-shoulder curve on the small chart, (Figure 3,) a
line is drawn from the a mark to said dot, the curve being equalized so that its
central part shall correspond with centre of the distance.
The dots made from scales 2 and 3 are then connected with each other by a curved
line following the " arm shape "line of the small chart, and with the second dot on
waist line by means of the "side-body curve ad on edge of the main chart. This
completes the outlines of the pattern for the back.
כג
The pattern for the "Side-Form" is drawn by placing the main chart as before
with the division of the scales 7 and 7 corresponding with the under-arm measure-
ment on a line drawn from the waist line. The perforations in said line in line
with 22 and with the bust-measure, on scale 5, are then both dotted and also the
perforations in scales 3 and 4 which correspond with the bust-measure. The corner q
of the small chart-Figure 3-is then placed at the dot made through the perforation
in scale 3/and the "side-body" edge of said chart carried to the dot on waist line and
a line drawn along said edge to connect the two to form the back, side-body line.
The main chart is next placed with the "side-body" edge a-d, at the dot made
through the perforation in scale 4, and also at the dot on waist line, and a line is

page_text: drawn to connect the two and is continued to the edge of the paper. The straight
line q-p of the small chart-Figure 3-is then placed even with the waist line, with
the dart-rule edge thereof p-q, at the second dot made on waist-line, to extend
outward from said line, and a line is drawn along said edge to give the hip shape.
The pattern for the "Front Piece," is drawn by placing the "front shape
edge c-b, of the main chart, about 1 inches from edge of the pattern paper to allow
for lap and a line is drawn along said edge commencing at the division in scale A
corresponding to the bust-measure and continuing a distance equal to length of the
front measure. Dots are made through the perforations in scales BCDE corre-
sponding to the bust-measure and through the perforations in scale F corresponding to
the under-arm measure and also through those of the perforations marked "Front
Dart" and "Back Dart" which correspond with the figures in the "Dart Calculation "
Table opposite the figures corresponding with the difference between the bust and
waist measures.
"
'
The main chart is then adjusted to bring its "neck" edge c-g to connect the first
two dots, and a line is drawn along said edge; then the second and third dots are
connected by the "front-shoulder" edge g-f; the third and fifth by the "
shape edge, fe; the chart being adjusted to draw the connecting line between
arm hole
them by first placing the arrow at the fourth dot made at scale D and drawing a line
to the third dot, then turning the edge to draw a line from the arrow to the fifth dot.
The side-body edge d-a, of the chart, is then placed against the dots marked
through the perforations in scales E and F, and a connecting line drawn, and finally
a straight line is drawn for waist-line from initial dot made by A scale, to the dot
last made through scale F.
In getting the width of the darts for this pattern, the small dart-rule chart is placed
longthwise with its straight edge p-o, even with the waist-line and with the arrow
point at the initial dot as above, and the points on edge of scale "Front dart" and
66 Back-dart" corresponding to the numbers obtained as before mentioned from the
"Dart Calculation" table are dotted on the pattern.
The darts are then outlined by means of the dart-rule edge p-g of the small chart,
a dot is made in the centre of each dart and a contre line drawn and extended from
6 to 8 inches below waist line. The side lines of the dart are then drawn to form a
point and the front line is drawn below the waist to slope about half an inch.
The patterns for the Sleeves, are made by drawing for the under part of sleeve, a
line on the pattern paper along the inner edge of the sleeve chart Figure 2, a
between the division lines on the two end scales severally indicated by the figures
corresponding with the measure for the inside length. Dots are then made through
the perforations in the scales E and F at the intersection of said division lines with
the transverse line whose number corresponds to one half the width of the wrist
measure in scale E, and with the similar line having the next smaller number in 4
scale F. These dots are connected by a line drawn along the edge j-k of the chart
adjusted for the purpose with the corner at the first dot. The wider end of the
pattern is then drawn upon the outline of the end k-h, of the sleeve, the corner k
being placed at the first dot, and the opposite ends of the side lines are connected by
a straight line to finish the narrow end.
4
The pattern for the upper part of the sleeve is made by first drawing the inside-
length measure along the edge of the sleeve-chart in manner as above described,
and making dots in the scale E at the intersection with the end line of the transverse
line indicated by the figure obtained by deducting from the arm measure the number
of the line at which the counterpart end of under-sleeve pattern was dotted, and in 5
scale F at the intersection with the end line of the transverse line indicated by the
figure obtained by deducting from the wrist measure the number of the line at which
the counterpart end of the under-sleeve pattern was dotted. The corner k of the
chart is then placed at first dot and the upper edge kj is extended to the second dot
and the line for the upper edge of the pattern is next drawn along said edge k—j 5
and a line for the arm hole end is drawn along the edge k-h.

page_text: Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, declare that what I
claim is :-
1. The dress-makers' dress-cutting Chart herein described and illustrated having
the outlines and containing the several scales shown in Figure 1 of the accompanying
drawings.
2. The auxiliary Charts herein described and illustrated having the outlines and
containing the several scales shown in Figures 2 and 3 of the accompanying
drawings.
בד
HERBERT J. ALLISON,
Agent for the Applicant.