Improvements in Brooches, Lockets, and other Articles of Personal Adornment, and in Apparatus for Imparting Motion to Parts thereof.
Year: 1888

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Date of Application, 24th July, 1888
Specification Accepted, 28th Sept., 11888
Improvements in Brooches, Lockets, and other Articles of Personal
Adornment, and in Apparatus for Imparting Motion to Parts
thereof.
We FRANK WALTER HAYWARD of White Lion Street, Norwich in the County
of Norfolk Watchmaker, and FREDERICK MILLS of 4 Verandah Terrace Bracondale,
Norwich, in the County of Norfolk aforesaid, Gentleman, do hereby declare the
nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
The object of this invention is to construct articles of personal adornment such as
brooches, lockets, tiaras, scarf pins, studs, etc. fitted with special apparatus for the
purpose of imparting circular reciprocating and oscillating motion to parts of the said
article of personal adornment, whereby the same will appear to greater advantage,
and form a more attractive ornament than heretofore.
And in order that our invention may be more fully understood and carried into
practice we will now proceed to describe the same with reference to the accom-
panying drawings, in which similar letters indicate corresponding parts in all the
figures.
Figure 1 is a plan of one arrangement of the mechanism which we intend to use
in our invention.
Figure 2 is a side view of the same, part of the mechanism being. omitted to avoid
complication.
Figure 3 is an enlarged view of the winding apparatus used in figures 1 and 2.
The mechanism is enclosed between two covering plates, circular, oval, or other
convenient shape G and G 1, each having a small flange. A thin sheet of metal O
(shewn in figure 7) is bent round and fitted into the flanges on plates G and G 1, and
the ends are lapped over and fastened together with a screw passing through them,
thus making a practically dust-tight space for the mechanism.
The plates G and G 1 are kept apart by any suitable number of pillars V.
The winding apparatus consists of a flat ring Y passing through a hole in the barrel
arbor W. which passes through the. back covering plate G 1. Resting on the plate G 1
and surrounding the barrel. arbor W is a steel spring Z so arranged as to normally
LD

page_text: press against the flattened sides of the ring Y.
Underneath and between this
spring and the plate G 1, is the click work for holding the mainspring in place when
said mainspring is wound up.
When it is required to wind up the mainspring, the ring Y is pulled up and it
then answers as a key and is turned, turning with it the barrel arbor W and so
winding the mainspring.
The above described winding apparatus will be hidden behind the back plate G 1.
Sometimes, however, we substitute a similar arrangement to that used for winding
keyless watches, in which case the winding button is at the side when looking at
the front plate G.
The mainspring is contained within a drum A upon which is fixed a toothed
wheel a.
This toothed wheel gears into a pinion fixed upon the axis of the toothed
wheel B which itself gears into a pinion fixed upon the axis of the toothed wheel C.
This toothed wheel C gears into a pinion fixed upon the toothed wheel D, which itself
gears into the pinion fixed upon the axis of the toothed wheel E. The toothed
wheel E gears into a pinion upon the axis of a fly or air brake F provided with a
stop consisting of a bent lever N. In practice the wheels B and D (figure 2)
will be sunk within the plates G and G1 so that the plates may be brought close
together.
Figures 4 and 5 shew a modification of the brake arrangement. The wheel D
gears into the pinion on the axis E attached to which is a brake, in which the
retarding influence consists of oil or other liquid constructed in the following
manner :-
A circular piece of wash leather or similar material E 2 is well saturated with oil or
other liquid and placed upon the axis E, and touching one of the plates G or G 1.
Over E 2 a circular plate of brass or other material E1 is placed upon the axis E.
The under side of the plate E1 is provided with a number of grooves E 3, as shewn
in Figure 5, concentric or otherwise, for the purpose of taking up the liquid. A
spring E4 keeps the plate E 1 at the same distance from the plate G or G 1 in all
positions. In some cases the piece E 2 may be dispensed with, the plate E 1 being
fixed closer to the plate G or G1, and the small intervening space filled with oil or
other liquid. In this case the spring E4 is not required.
In the plates G and G 1, the pivot holes do not come through the plate except
where it is necessary, that they should be carried through as in the winding apparatus
and the shaft H of the wheel D.
Figure 6 shews a brooch or other article fitted with our mechanism and representing
a ship at sea. Affixed to the shaft H is a regularly or irregularly serrated wheel_
into which an arm J works, being kept in position against the wheel I by a spring K.
The arm J is rigidly attached to the ship and the ship loosely fitted on to a pin P
projecting from one of the plates G. The plate G 2 has a slit in it in which the ship
works and is made ornamental to represent clouds, sea &c. and is intended to cover
the whole of the remaining mechanism, and the ship rocks upon the said pin P
as a pivot. The stop N can be applied when it is desired that the mechanism shall
be stationary.
This arrangement of mechanism is applicable for all kinds of rocking motion, such
as See Saws, Swings, Swinging gates &c., when used in connection with any
articlo of personal adornment.
To adapt the mechanism for a windmill, the sails or flyers thereof are rigidly affixed
to the shaft H which is then passed through the front of the picture plate.
Figure 7 shews a side view of a stud or scarf pin fitted with our mechanism ;
affixed to the front plate G and over the shaft H is a cover L. The setting M 2 of
the stone or other ornament M 1 is provided with a shaft M which passes through a
hole in the cover L and screws into or over the pinion shaft H as convenient in the
opposite direction to the revolution of the said shaft H, so that, should the stone or
other ornament M1 catch against any obstacle the setting M 2 will be screwed
further into or over the shaft H. The cover L is so shaped, as to form a collar or
shank for holding the whole in the scarf or shirt. When it is required to remove the

page_text: stone or other ornament M 1, the stop N is applied to hold the mechanism fast, when
the stone or other ornament M 1 can be unscrewed from the pinion shaft H. The
upper part L1 of the cover L can be unscrewed from the lower part, which is then
more easily passed through the shirt or scarf, when L1 can be screwed to the shank
of the cover L and the ornament M 1 can then be screwed to the pinion shaft H.
Figures 8 and 9 shew another design to which our invention can be applied.
Figure 8 shews a disc of metal with perforations or spaces R. A second disc Q
Figure 9 is fixed upon the shaft H and revolves with it and is placed beneath the
first disc R (Figure 8).
The disc is seen revolving through the spaces R and beautiful colour effects and
combinations are produced when the discs are wholly or partially coloured.
The disc Figure 9 may also be perforated and a third disc placed beneath, when
the effect is enhanced. These effects may be varied by providing one or more of the
discs with radial arms which catch into stops and so allow the disc or discs an
intermittent circular motion, one or more of the discs being eccentrically placed upon
the pinion shaft H and revolving with it, being held sufficiently fast by a small
friction spring when one of the radial arms is not in contact with one of the stops.
To enhance the brilliancy of diamonds or other precious stones, or imitation stones,
a bright corrugated disc is made to revolve under them. Or glass is cut for the
purpose and a disc of bright or coloured, or partly bright and partly coloured metal
is made to revolve under the said glass. If the precious stones or glass be coloured,
the disc revolving underneath is coloured to suit.
Figure 10 is a side view of a stud or scarf pin fitted with our invention. The
transparent cut glass or precious stone A 2 is fixed within the setting B2 attached
to the plate G. A disc C2 is affixed to the pinion shaft H. This disc may be
made of bright metal coloured or not, according to the colour of the cut glass or
stone A 2, or it may be of two or three different colours or combinations of colours,
or small pieces of looking glass may be cut for the purpose and attached to the
said disc Ċ 2.
Figure 11 is a side view of a 'brooch the arrangement of the parts being the same
as in Figure 10. Sometimes we substitute several stones for the one stone A 2 here
shewn, and make the disc C2 revolve beneath them, the disc 02 being in the shape
of a cone, pyramid, inverted cone, or other shape, as shewn more particularly in
Figures 12 to 15.
In Figure 12 the cut glass or precious stone A 2 is fixed in the setting B2 and the
hollow inverted cone shaped piece C2 of bright metal or cut looking glass is affixed
to the pinion shaft H.
Figure 13 shews an arrangement similar to Figure 12. The cut clear glass A 2 is
affixed to the pinion shaft H and the setting B2 is cut away as much as possible
allowing the bright metal or other piece C2 to be seen through A 2. The
ornament A 2 may be made of bright faceted metal or of looking glass faceted, the
facets being flat or of a parabolic form. This description of the facets applies to all
our bright parts of articles of personal adornment where the faceted parts move
in any way.
Figure 14 shews another similar arrangement, in which A 2 is a transparent stone
or glass cut for the purpose fixed to the setting B2; the bright faceted metal or
faceted looking glass Ċ 2 is affixed to the pinion shaft H and revolves behind A 2.
Figure 15 represents a brooch or other article of slightly different form. The
concave disc C2 affixed to the pinion shaft H may be made of glass similar to
looking glass and faceted with flat or parabolic facets, or it may be made of bright
metal B2 all the overlapping edges of the brooch to protect the disc C2 from
injury.
Figure 16 is a side view of a brooch, tiara or similar article fitted with our
invention.
On to the pinion shaft H, a cluster of diamonds or other articles S to be revolved
is screwed as in Figure 7. The upright or standard U which is circular in cross
section is rigidly attached to the plate G and is provided with a shoulder X ;

page_text: a disc T is attached to the shaft of the setting of S and any suitable number of
pins or studs W 1 are passed through the upper part of the standard U so as to
prevent the disc T from being withdrawn; should the shaft of the setting or the
pinion shaft H be broken. The shoulder X will keep the disc T and the revolving
article S from having too much side motion, and so minimise the danger of
breaking shaft H.
Figures 17 to 19 shew designs of brooches or similar articles to which our mechanism
can be applied. In Figure 17 a fine or more pointed star Ii is affixed to the shaft H.
A corresponding number of pieces J1 are pivotted at K1 to a plate G 3, and
springs L1 fixed on the plate G 3 press the pieces J¹ against the spaces between the
points of the star I 1. When the star revolves, the pieces J 1 are pressed away from
the centre and form another pointed star, and again fall in between the points of the
star Il as it revolves. Part of the pieces J 1, may be left visible and the other part
together with the star II may be covered by an ornament fixed on the pinion
shaft H, or otherwise Figures 18 and 19 represent two parts of one brooch or other
article.
In figure 18 five or more spaces N1 are cut out of a circular disc N 2 loose upon
the pinion shaft H.
Figure 19 represents a disc N 3 which is intended to be fixed to the pinion shaft H;
a double pointed star P1 R1 is laid upon this plate N 3 and revolves under the
plate N 2, Figure 18.
The points P 1 are made of bright metal, and the points R 1 are coloured blue.
When N 3 revolves under the stationary plate N 2 the whole presents the appearance
of a twinkling star. To increase the effect the number of visible points may be
varied so that the blue points are shown in different parts at different times.
Figure 20 shows another modification of our invention intended to enhance the
brilliancy of diamonds or other bright substances. The setting T2 of the diamond or
other stone T 1 is prolonged backwards so as to go through a plate S1 and receive a
nut or pin S 2 to hold it loosely in the plate S 1. The upper part of the setting of the
stone T1 fits loosely in a hole in the fixed plate V 2.
Rectilinear motion is in parted to the plate S1 by a suitable crank fixed upon the
pinion shaft H 1 and hence the motion will be imparted to the stone T 1.
Obviously any number of stones or other articles can be placed in holes, in the
plate V 2 and made to form any design, and will receive motion from the plate S 1
and the train of wheels can be placed in any convenient position.
This arrangement of mechanism is specially suitable for masonic jewels, tiaras,
bracelets or other similar articles of adornment.
In some cases the brilliancy of precious stones and imitation stones can be enhanced
by making another stone revolve below them, or glass may be cut expressly for this
purpose, as described with reference to Figure 14.
Figure 21 shews another arrangement of mechanism. The disc A 1 of bright
faceted or corrugated metal has two movements, while it revolves it also alternately
advances towards and recedes from the cut glass or precious stone placed in front of
the brooch or other article. The pinion shaft H is provided with a spring Z 1, secured
thereon by means of a small nut Y 2. The disc Al is attached to a collar H1 loose
upon the pinion shaft H which carries disc D1 with overhanging serrated edges.
E1 is a stud fixed to the plate G of the train of wheels. A crank H 2 is fixed to the
pinion shaft H and revolves with it. H2 takes into a hole in the disc D 1, and
imparts circular motion thereto. This arrangement will give a curious and brilliant
appearance to the disc A 1 and to any brooches, stones or glass cut for the purpose
and placed in front of it.
Figures 22 and 23 show a modification of Figures 1 and 2. The mechanism and
gearing are similar but the wheels are so arranged as to occupy less space and at the
same time leave room for a higher drum or barrel A and consequently a wide and
therefore powerful mainspring may be employed.
It will be seen that the wheels B and E are in the same plane and that all the other
wheels are clear from the drum or barrel A. B and E work in spaces cut out of the

page_text: plate G 1. An extra wheel and pinion is introduced and the oil or other liquid brake
is fixed upon the pinion F.
In figure 23 the wheels only are shewn and not the pinions.
Figures 24 and 25 show a modification of Figures 1 and 2 with the wheels
somewhat differently placed and with only four toothed wheels and three pinions
gearing A into B, B into C, and C into D, the pinion shaft H being fixed upon the
wheel D.
Figures 26 and 27 show another modification of Figures 1 and 2 similar to
Figures 24 and 25, the wheels A. B. C and D however being of different sizes and
differently placed, and an extra wheel and pinion E being added.
Figures 28 and 29 show a further modification of figures 1 and 2, similar to
figures 24 and 25, and the same remarks as to the sizes and positions of the wheels,
apply to this arrangement as to figures 26 and 27.
In figures 24 to 29 no brake or winding arrangement is shown, but we wish it to
be understood that either of the brake arrangements and the winding-up apparatus
described with reference to figures 1 to 5 can be fitted to these modifications.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we
claim is,
(1) The arrangement of the train of wheels between the plates G and G 1 fitted
with stop and oil, or other liquid brake, enclosed in a dust tight case and winding
apparatus substantially as and for the purpose hereinbefore set forth and illustrated
in Figures 1 to 5.
(2) The arrangement of the train of wheels between the plates G and G 1 fitted
with stop and oil, or other liquid brake enclosed in a dust tight case and winding
apparatus substantially as and for the purpose hereinbefore set forth and illustrated in
figures 22 and 23.
(3) The arrangement of the train of wheels between the plates G and G 1 fitted
with stop and oil, or other liquid brake enclosed in a dust tight case and winding
apparatus substantially as and for the purpose hereinbefore set forth and illustrated in
figures 24 and 25.
(4) The arrangement of the train of wheels between the plates G and G 1 fitted
with stop and oil, or other liquid brake enclosed in a dust fight case and winding
apparatus substantially as and for the purpose herein before set forth and illustrated in
figures 26 and 27.
(5) The arrangement of the train of wheels between the plates G and G 1 fitted
with stop and oil, or other liquid brake enclosed in a dust tight case and winding
apparatus substantially as and for the purpose hereinbefore set forth and illustrated in
figures 28 and 29.
(6) The oil, or other liquid brake consisting of a circular disc E 1 with grooves E 3
and a circular disc of wash leather or other material E2 with spring E4,
substantially as and for the purpose herein before set forth and illustrated in figures 4
and 5.
(7) The oil or other liquid brake consisting of a circular disc E1 with grooves E 3
substantially as and for the purpose hereinbefore set forth and illustrated in figures
and 5.
(8) The winding apparatus consisting of a flat ring Y and a spring W encircling
the arbor, substantially as herein before described with reference to figures 2 and 3.
(9) The combination of the Picture Plate G 2, serrated wheel I arm J spring K
and axis P with the arrangement of mechanism as described in Claim 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5
substantially as and for the purpose hereinbefore set forth and illustrated in figure 6.
(10) The combination of the cover L screw pinion shaft H and screw shaft M of
the setting M 2 with the arrangement of mechanism as described in claim 1, 2, 3, 4,
or 5 substantially as and for the purpose hereinbefore set forth and illustrated in
figure 7.

page_text: (11) The combination of the corrugated disc, spaces R and disc Q with the
arrangement of mechanism as described in claim 1, 3, 4 or 5 substantially as
and for the purpose hereinbefore set forth and illustrated in figures 8 and 9.
(12) The combination of the ornament A 2, setting B2 and disc C2, with the
arrangement of mechanism as described in claim 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5 substantially as and
for the purpose hereinbefore set forth and illustrated in figures 10 to 15.
(13) The combination of the standard U, pins W1 and disc T with the arrange-
ment of mechanism as described in claim 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5 substantially as and for the
purpose herein before set forth and illustrated in figure 16.
(14) The combination of a five or more pointed star I1 with a corresponding
number of pieces J 1 and springs L1 with the arrangement of mechanism as described
in claim 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5 substantially as and for the purpose herein before set forth and
illustrated in figure 17.
(15) The combination of the disc N 2 spaces N 1 disc N 3, with the star points P 1
and R 1 with the arrangement of mechanism as described in claim 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5
substantially as and for the purpose hereinbefore set forth and illustrated in figures 18
and 19.
(16) The combination of,,the two plates S1 and V2 the setting T2 and pin or
stud $2 with the arrangement of mechanism as described in claim 1, 2, 3, 4
or 5 substantially as and for the purpose hereinbefore set forth and illustrated in
figure 20.
(17) The combination of the disc A1 spring L1, nut Y2, shaft H 1, disc with
serrated overlapping edge D, and stud E1 with the arrangement of mechanism as
described in claim 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5 substantially as and for the purpose hereinbefore set
forth and illustrated in figure 21.