Arrangements of Loom Machinery for. Ornamenting and Giving Shape to Fabrics designed for Articles of Clothing.
Year: 1853

page_text: Arrangements of Loom Machinery for. Ornamenting
and Giving Shape to Fabrics designed for Articles
of Clothing.
ட்,
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by James Lord at the Office of the
Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 30th December
1853.
I, JAMES LORD, of Farnworth, in the County of Lancaster, Manager, do
hereby declare the nature of the, said, Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN MANU-
FACTURING, ORNAMENTING, AND APPLYING FABRICS FOR ARTICLES OF CLOTHING, AND
IN THE APPLICATION OF CERTAIN FABRICS TO SUCH PURPOSES, AND IN PRODUCING
SHAPES FOR ARTICLES OF CLOTHING," to be as follows:-
My Invention refers; firstly, to the production of ornamental designs or other
effects: by weaving; printing, or other process upon fabrics intended to be.
used for. articles of clothing, with, the said designs or effects around the body,
and consists in producing the same during the operation of weaving, or subsc-
quently thereto in the direction of the selvages of the goods.
..To illustrate the use of this part. of my Invention I will suppose that a.
fabric for ladies dresses is required, with stripes or other designs at that part
which is: to form the bottom of the skirt; for this purpose I so arrange the
warp threads of a loom, and impart such shedding thereto, that the said.

page_text: stripes are produced at a side of the loom along a selvage, a sufficient length
of this fabric to form the skirt being cut off and joined at the severed edges,
that part of the dress is formed, the warp threads being around the body.
In like manner I produce vandykes, double cloth for tucks, or other
effects required, or instead of accomplishing the object by weaving, I manu-
facture an ordinary fabric, and subsequently ornament the same in the
direction of the length by printing or other after process.
I do not, however, propose confining myself to the production of effects
which are strictly ornamental, and will therefore mention another example
of a different character. I-arrange the warp threads of a loom so as to
produce a double cloth, as is now practised, but for a portion of the width
only at one selvage, and unite the inward edge thereof by working the two
sets of warps together, by which means a loop is formed in a longitudinal
direction. The fabric thus formed being cut off into suitable lengths for a
skirt will, when turned round at right angles, form a petticoat with a loop
suited for the reception of a tape to be passed around the body. In like
manner a series of loops may be formed across the width of the loom which
when treated as above will form a petticoat with a number of open pipings
around the body.
Another part of my Invention relates to a method of applying fabrics for
articles of clothing, and consists in making up the same (whether ornamented
according to the first part of my Invention or plain) with the
warp threads
around the body, by which means fewer seams will be required.
Another improvement consists in the application for petticoats of a fabric
partly of fustian or other such fabric in stripes or other patches, which
portions may be cut in the ordinary manner of cutting fustians, or may remain
as woven.
Another part of my Invention consists in a method of producing shapes for
chemises or under shirts with ornamental parts, and consists in so arranging
the shedding of the warp or throwing of the weft that patterns are pro-
duced in the direction of the shape the article is to assume when made up ;
or the shape may be indicated by printing or other such process. I then cut out
the fabric thus produced into a suitable form, and complete it by sewing.
Another part of my Invention relates to a method of producing shapes for
petticoats, and consists in weaving a double piece of cloth, and uniting the
same at certain intervals by a weft thread; the fabric being then severed
between two sets of such stitchings will form a petticoat, without the necessity
of sewing up the edges by hand.

page_text: Another part of my Invention relates to a method of producing shapes for
shirts, and consists in the application of three distinct warp rollers, the threads
from the centre one being for the body, and those on either side for the
sleeves, the latter of which have no connection with the work beam, and are
not therefore drawn off during the weaving of the body. These shapes may
be produced in double cloth, and united by stitching during the weaving, or
may be single and afterwards united by hand.