Iμ- PROVEMENTS IN MACHINES. FOR EMBROIDERING
Year: 1858

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Richard Archibald Brooman, of 166, Fleet Street,
in the City of London, E.C., Patent Agent, for the Invention of "Iμ-
PROVEMENTS IN MACHINES. FOR EMBROIDERING."-A communication from
BG Dutel residing at St. Quentin, France.
2+
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Richard Archibald
Brooman at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his
Petition, on the 30th December 1858.
I, RICHARD ARCHIBALD BROOMAN, of 166, Fleet Street, in the City of
London, E.C., Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature of the said
Invention, for "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINES FOR EMBROIDERING," (communi-
cated to me by B. G. Dutel, residing at St. Quentin, France,) to be as
follows:-
This Invention consists in novel arrangements of the parts constituting an
embroidering machine, and in the action of those parts..
.. By means of these novel arrangements, the festoon stitch is the result of.
two threads introduced into the fabric to be ornamented by one needle and.
one hook. The needle placed under the fabric is slightly bent back, in order
to allow the hook taking the thread from this needle to form a loop. The
hook placed above the fabric directs the second thread, in such manner, as
to form a knot above the fabric. Over the fabric is a small instrument called

page_text: a pusher (poussette), intended to prepare the loop formed by the hook, in order
that the needle in again rising may not fail to seize the thread. Under the
fabric is another instrument, called a thread grip (serre-fil), intended to tighten
the knot formed above the fabric every time the hook recedes, and previous to
the descent of the needle.
The working of the machine is as follows:-The needles being threaded,
and the fabric stretched horizontally, a jacquard is connected to the movable
parts of the machine, in order to produce the form of stitch and pattern
required. On the first motion of the driving shaft, a thread grip moves from
left to right, to grip the thread before the needle enters the fabric. On the
moment of the needle being presented to the fabric, the thread grip makes an
oscillating motion in a contrary direction to its first motion, to allow the
needle to pass through the fabric, and at the same time to lay hold of the
thread. On the needle traversing the fabric, the hook enters between
the thread and the needle, and at the same moment the needle descends, the
thread remains engaged in the hook to form a loop; the hook remains
stationary; the needle rises again, and enters between the the thread coming
from above and the hook in which the thread is held, the needle remains an
instant stationary, the hook is withdrawn, and the thread forms a loop
upon the needle. After the withdrawal of the hook, the thread grip under
the fabric tightens the knot made in the combination of loops formed by
the threads.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Richard Archibald Brooman in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 30th June 1859.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, RICHARD
ARCHIBALD BROOMAN, of 166, Fleet Street, in the City of London, E.C.,
Patent Agent, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Thirtieth day of December, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-eight, in the twenty-second year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the said
Richard Archibald Brooman, Her special. licence that I, the said Richard
Archibald Brooman, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such
others as I, the said Richard Archibald Brooman, my. executors, adminis:
trators, and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to

page_text: time and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should
and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom
of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an In-
vention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINES FOR EMBROIDERING," (a communi.
cation from B. G. Dutel, residing at Saint Quentin, France,) upon the con-
dition (amongst others) that I, the said Richard Archibald Brooman, my
executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their,
or one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be
performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office..
within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said
Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Richard. Archibald Brooman, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is
to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement thereof, reference being had to the Drawings hereunto
annexed, that is to say:-
This Invention consists in novel arrangements of the parts constituting an
embroidering machine, and in the action of those parts.
By means of these novel arrangements, the festoon stitch is the result of
two threads introduced into the fabric to be ornamented by one needle and
one hook. The needle placed under the fabric is slightly bent back, in order
to allow the hook taking the thread from this needle to form a loop; the
hook placed above the fabric directs the second thread in such manner as to
form a knot above the fabric. Over the fabric is a small instrument called a
pusher (poussette), intended to prepare the loop formed by the hook, in order
that the needle in again rising may not fail to seize the thread. Under the
fabric is another instrument called a thread grip (serre-fil), intended to tighten
the knot formed above the fabric every time the hook recedes, and previous to
the descent of the needle.
The working of the machine is as follows:-The needles being threaded
and the fabric stretched horizontally, a jacquard is connected to the movable
parts of the machine, in order to produce the form of stitch and pattern
required. On the first motion of the driving shaft a thread grip moves from
left to right to grip the thread before the needle enters the fabric; on the
moment of the needle being presented to the fabric, the thread grip makes an
oscillating motion in a contrary direction to its first motion, to allow the
needle to pass through the fabric, and at the same time to lay hold of
the thread. On the needle traversing the fabric, the hook enters between-the

page_text: thread and the needle, and at the same moment the needle descends, the thread
remains engaged in the hook to form a loop, the hook remains stationary,"
the needle rises again, and enters between the thread coming from above and the
hook in which the thread is held, the needle remains an instant stationary,
the hook is withdrawn, and the thread forms a loop upon the needle. After
the withdrawal of the hook, the thread grip under the fabric tightens the knot
made in the combination of loops formed by the threads.
The Drawings hereunto annexed represent an apparatus by which this
Invention may be conveniently and efficiently carried into effect. Figure 1 is'
a longitudinal side elevation; Figure 2 is an elevation of the opposite side;
Figure 3 is a plan; Figure 4 is an end view, showing the jacquard apparatus;"
and Figures 5 and 6 are details, by means of which the stitch is formed.
The apparatus is put in motion by means of the handle a, which moves a
shaft b, which is furnished with cams that act upon the wheels c that are on the
levers d, the latter being pivoted at e. Upon one of the levers d (Figure 2)
is fixed a hooked rod, or a rod furnished with a click, which imparts rotary
motion to the wheel f. By means of these parts, longitudinal motion is im-
parted to the fabric to be operated upon. The clicks c', c', which move the
wheelf, may be put out of action by means of the hand lever D. The
wheel is mounted on a shaft g, which is furnished at its other extremity with
a pinion h (Figure 4), which moves the frame i on which the fabric is placed,
and on the sides of which it is held by the holders k (Figure 3). As the
fabric has to advance during the working of the apparatus, it is unrolled from
and rolled upon the cylinders m placed lengthwise of the apparatus. At the
ends of these cylinders are wheels furnished with clicks or pawls, by means of
which any required tension may be put upon the fabric. The unrolling and
rolling of the fabric are aided by the guards n. The lever d in moving works
by means of the rod o the lever p (Figure 2), which is connected to the part q,
which again is connected with the levers 7, 7, (Figure 4.) These levers give
motion to the wheel s, which is otherwise held by the click t. One or the other
of the levers r, r, are brought against the wheel v by means of the lever .
The wheels is mounted on a shaft u, which by acting on the jointed lever v
inoves the shaft z aud the cranks (1), which together give the necessary trans-
verse motion to the fabric. A jacquard apparatus (2) enables the Inventor to
represent all sorts of designs in the festoon stitch. The jacquard is worked
by means of the lever B (Figure 1). The cylinder of the jacquard acts upon
the small needles (21) and the hooks (3), and the rotary movement of the
cylinder is produced by a lever, which receives its motion from that of the
main apparatus. The arm of the jacquard is guided in its receding motion by

page_text: the spring (4). The special apparatuses which together form the festoon
stitch are (see Figures 5 and 6), first, the pushers (poussettes) (5); secondly,
the thread grips (6) worked by the lever A (Figure 3); thirdly, the needles (7)
held by the needle carrier (8); and, fourthly, the hooks (9). The hooks and
the pushers are disposed on the movable shafts (10), (11), and the thread
grips on the shaft (12). The needles and needle carriers are fixed upon a
movable traverse (13) worked by the shaft (14). The festoon point pro-
duced by this apparatus is made by means of two threads introduced into the
fabric by a needle and a hook, the needle (7) placed below having a somewhat
curved form, in order to allow the hook (9) to pass it and take the thread
from the needle, thus forming a knot. The hook (9) placed above directs the
second thread in such manner as to form the knots above the fabric. Above
the fabric is a small bent or elbow piece (herein-before called the pusher) (5),
the object of which is to prepare the knot which has been formed by the hook
(9), in order that the needle (7) in reascending shall not escape the thread of
the hook; below is a small bent or elbow piece (6) herein-before called the
thread grip), the only object of which is to tighten the knot formed above the
fabric each time the hook retires and before the needle again descends. The
apparatus works as follows:-The needles being furnished with their threads,
the fabric being extended horizontally (according to the design), and the
jacquard apparatus being put in communication with the movable parts, the
operation proceeds thus:-At the first movement of the shaft b, the thread
grip (6) moves from left to right, to seize the thread before the needle
can enter the fabric. At the moment when the needle presents itself to
the fabric the thread grip makes a slight oscillatory movement in the inverse
direction to the first, to allow the needle to pass through the fabric, and at the
same time to seize the thread. When the needle has traversed the fabric, the
hook engages itself between the thread and the needle, and at this moment
the needle descends. The thread remains looped to the hook (9) to form the
knot, the hook remaining for the moment at rest. The needle then ascends,
consequently engaging itself between the thread coming from above and the
hook in which this thread is engaged. The needle then rests an instant, the
hook withdraws, and the thread of the hook forms a knot on the needle;
the thread grip under the fabric then comes and tightens the knot.
And having now described the nature of the said Invention, and in what
manner the same may be performed, I declare that I claim,-
First, the combination of needles, hooks, thread grips, and pushers, formed
and arranged essentially as herein-before described and illustrated in the
Drawings hereunto annexed.

page_text: Secondly, the production of festoon work by means of two threads arranged
and operated essentially as herein-before described and illustrated in the
Drawings hereunto annexed.
Thirdly, the method of arranging the fabric to be embroidered in such
manner as to impart to it the necessary combined longitudinal and transverse
motions, essentially as herein-before described and illustrated in the Drawings
hereunto annexed.
Fourthly, the general construction and arrangement of apparatus herein-
before described and illustrated in the Drawings hereunto annexed.
In witness whereof, I, the said Richard Archibald Brooman, have here-
unto set their hands and seals, this Thirtieth day of June, One thousand
eight hundred and fifty-nine.
R. A. BROOMAN. (L.S.)