Double Fabric suitable for Collar Backings or Linings, and the Manufacture of these therefrom.
Year: 1897

page_text: Date of Application, 19th Feb, 1897
Complete Specification Left, 19th Nov., 1897-Accepted, 19th Feb., 1898
Double Fabric suitable for Collar Backings or Linings, and the
Manufacture of these therefrom.
(A cominunication from WALTER FLECKENSTEIN, of Zurich, Switzerland,
Manufacturer, and FRITZ FLECKENSTEIN, of Wadensweil, Switzerland, Manufacturer.).
I, WILLIAM LLOYD WISE, of 46, Lincoln's Inn Fields, in the County of London,
Consulting Engineer and Chartered Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature of
this invention to be as follows:-
This invention has reference to a double fabric specially suitable for the backings
or linings of collars, and in which, the material forming one layer or thickness of
fabric is different from that forming the other layer.
Collar backings or linings composed of this fabric are adapted to replace the collar
backings or linings heretofore employed which have commonly been made by means
of the well known process of quilting together canvas and cloth and by ironing and
stretching.
In the accompanying drawings
;
Fig. 1 shows a piece of the new double fabric..cut out and laid flat in a plane,
suitable for a collar, and Fig. 2 shows the same piece after it has been shaped;
Fig. 3 is a cross section on the line A-B of Fig. 2.
m and n are the two layers of different material constituting the double fabric.
A very suitable double fabric, specially designed for the backings or linings of
collars is produced by making the outside layer m, of wool, and the inside layer n of
vegetable fibre. This vegetable fibre may be of flax, hemp, ramie, or cotton. Hemp
is preferably to be used for the weft threads, and flax, or cotton for the warp threads
of the one layer of fabric, but these are merely given by way of example as one
arrangement of the composition of that layer of woven fabric which consists of
vegetable fibre.
As is well known double fabrics have an upper and a lower warp, and also an upper
and a lower weft.
Now the new double woven fabric according to this invention has two layers or
thicknesses of fabric, each composed of different raw material, such that substantially
one layer consists of wool, and the other layer consists of vegetable fibre, the two
layers of fabric being connected. together in the known manner.
As a suitable example of the use of the aforesaid raw materials, the upper warp
may be made of wool, and the lower warp of flax or cotton, whilst the upper weft is
made of wool and the lower weft is made of flax. The binding of the double fabric
may be of any desired kind.
In another example, one layer of the double fabric may be composed of wool
with cotton, and the other layer of flax alone, or in combination with hemp or
ramie. In the outer layer, the warp may be of cotton, and the weft of wool; or
cotton and wool may be mixed together whilst loose and the mixture be then spun
and woven.

page_text: The material when completely woven, is washed, fulled, dried and pressed as usual.
After the pressing, the layer of vegetable fibre is stiffened by treatment with a
solution of starch, or the like, and is again dried and pressed. The said dressing is
specially necessary for collar backings or linings which are made of the herein
described double fabric, so as to ensure the proper stiffness of the collar.
5
A collar backing or lining composed of the new double fabric having one layer of
wool and the other layer of vegetable fibre, is then formed from a piece of the fabric
of the shape shown in Fig. 1. In this piece the weft and the warp cross each other
at right angles or approximately so. A central portion of the figure is shown with
the weft threads and warp threads complete, whilst on both sides thereof, solely for 1
the purpose of more clearly showing the directions of the intersecting threads, the
intervals between the warp and weft threads are shown on a very much larger scale and
quite out of proportion, a number of intermediate threads being omitted in each case.
The contour of the fabric is indicated in Fig. 1 by the letters e cabd fh. The
several parts of the periphery are thus indicated for the purpose of more clearly
explaining the process of shaping the collar backing so as to characterize more exactly
the complete collar backing or lining by its various parts. The part ehf between
and f is turned over along the line e gf, whilst treating it at the same time with
the iron, and stretching the said parts by means of the iron and by hand. By this
operation the part a b is pulled that is to say stretched as also is the part eh f; but
to a considerable less extent, whilst the part egf is not actually stretched but
assumes an inwardly curved or concave shape by reason of the aforesaid stretching of
the other parts.
By this means the weft threads and warp threads which previously
cross one another at an angle of 90° assume the characteristic relative arrangement
indicated by corresponding lines in Fig. 2, that is to say, applying the above:
statements to the surface, a b d f g e c, the previously parallel threads m² m² will be
situated further apart along the portion a b than along the portion e g, whilst
along the portion e h, they will still be a certain greater distance apart. This holds
good both for the warp threads, and for the weft threads, which previously crossed
one another in a parallel manner at an angle of 90°, and which now diverge in curves
as shown in Fig. 2.
Dated this 19th day of February 1897.
Double Fabric suitable for Collar Backings or Linings, and the
Manufacture of these therefrom.
(A communication from abroad by WALTER FLECKENSTEIN, of Zurich, Switzerland,
Manufacturer, and FRITZ FLECKENSTEIN, of Wädensweil, Switzerland, Manufacturer.)"
I, WILLIAM LLOYD WISE, of 46, Lincoln's Inn Fields, in the County of London,
Consulting Engineer and Chartered Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature of
this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This invention has reference to a double fabric which is specially suitable for the
backings or linings of coat collars and for gaiters, and in which the material forming
one layer or thickness of fabric is different froin that forming the other layer.

page_text: Collar backings or linings composed of this fabric are adapted to replace the collar
backings or linings heretofore employed which have commonly been made by means
of the well known process of quilting together canvas and cloth and by ironing and
stretching.
Fig. 1 of the drawings filed with my Provisional Specification shows a piece of the
new double fabric cut out and laid flat in a plane, suitable for a collar, and Fig. 2
shows the same piece after it has been shaped.
Fig. 3 is a cross section on the line A B of Fig. 2.
m and n are the two layers of different material constituting the double fabric. A
very suitable double fabric, specially designed for the backings or linings of collars, is
produced by making the outside layer m of wool, and the inside layer n of vegetable
fibre. This vegetable fibre may be of flax, hemp, ramie, or cotton; hemp is preferably
to be used for the weft threads, and flax or cotton for the warp threads, but these are
merely given by way of example.
'r
As is well known double fabrics have an upper and a lower warp, and also an upper
and a lower weft. Now the new double woven fabric according to this invention has
two layers or thicknesses of fabric, each composed; of different raw material, such that
substantially one layer consists of wool and the other layer of vegetable fibre, the two
layers of fabric being connected together in the known manner. A suitable example
of the use of the aforesaid raw materials consists in making the upper warp of wool
and the lower warp of flax or cotton, the upper weft being made of wool and the lower
weft of flax. The binding of the double fabric may be of any desired kind.
The material, when completely woven, is washed, fulled, dried, and pressed as usual.
After the pressing, the layer of vegetable fibre is stiffened by treatment with a solution
of starch or the like, and is again dried and pressed. This stiffening may be effected
before or after the fabric has been cat to form; preferably before. The said dressing
is specially necessary (in order to ensure the proper stiffness of the collars) in the case
of collar backings or linings made of the herein described double fabric.
A collar backing or lining composed of the new double fabric having one layer of
wool and the other layer of vegetable fibre, is formed from a piece of the fabric of the
shape shown in Fig. 1. In this piece the weft and the warp cross each other at right
angles or approximately so. A central portion of the figure is shown with weft
threads and warp threads complete, whilst on both sides thereof, solely for the purpose
of more clearly showing the directions of the intersecting threads, the intervals
between the warp and weft threads are shown on a very much larger scale and quite
out of proportion, a number of intermediate threads being omitted in each case. The
contour of the fabric is indicated in Fig. 1 by the letters e cab dfh. The several
points of the outline are thus indicated for the purpose of more clearly explaining the
process of shaping the collar backing, so as to characterize more exactly the complete
collar backing or lining by its various parts. The part e h f between e and f is turned
over along the line e gf, whilst treating it at the same time with a pressing or
smoothing iron, and stretching the parts where necessary, by means of the iron and
by hand. By this operation the line abis pulled that is to say, stretched-as also
is the line ehf, but to a considerably less extent; whilst the line e gf is not actually
stretched but assumes an inwardly curved or concave shape as a result of the aforesaid
stretching of the other parts. By this means, the weft threads and warp threads,
which previously crossed one another at an angle of 90°, are caused to assume the
characteristic relative arrangement indicated by corresponding lines in Fig. 2--that
is to say, regard being had to the surface a b d f g e c, the previously parallel
threads m¹ m² are further apart along the line a b than along the line eg, whilst
along the line e h they are still a certain greater distance apart. This holds good both
for the warp threads and for the weft threads, which previously crossed one another
in a parallel manner at an angle of 90°, but now diverge in curves as shown in Fig. 2.
The manufacture of gaiters and the like of double fabric according to this invention
will be readily understood from the foregoing description.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said

page_text: invention and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what
claim is:
1. A double woven fabric one of whose layers consists of wool and the other of
vegetable fibre, substantially as hereinbefore described.
2.A.collar lining or backing made of double woven fabric of the kind referred to
in the preceding claim in which the layer consisting of vegetable fibre is starched,
substantially as hereinbefore described."
3. The manufacture of a collar lining or backing by starching the layer consisting of
vegetable fibre of a piece (corresponding to the form of the collar lining or backing
to be made) of double fabric of the kind referred to in Claim 1, drying the said piece,
and then folding one edge and at the same time suitably stretching the piece at each
side of the fold, substantially as hereinbefore described.
Dated this 19th day of November 1897.
W. LLOYD WISE,
· 46, Lincoln's Inn Fields, London; W.C., Chartered Patent Agent.