An Improved Sewing-machine for the Production of Curved Ornamental Seams.
Year: 1895

page_text: Date of Application, 19th Dec., 1895-Accepted, 19th Dec., 1896
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
An Improved Sewing-machine for the Production of Curved
Ornamental Seams.
We, RICHARD HAASE and SIEGMUND SALINGER, both of 59-61 Spandauer
Strasse, Berlin, Kingdom of Prussia, German Empire, Manufacturers, do hereby
declare the nature of this invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:
This invention refers to machines of the class used for the production of curved
ornamental seams (festoons and the like), the object of our improvements in the
said machines being to produce such seams in a simpler manner, or with simpler
means or mechanism than heretofore. We attain this object by means of certain
arrangements and combinations of parts which are hereinafter more fully
described.
In the accompanying drawings wherein like letters indicate corresponding parts
throughout the different views,
Figure 1 is a side-elevation of my improved sewing machine ;
Figure 2 is an underside view thereof;
Figure 3 is a front elevation of the same;
Figure 4 is a vertical section of the front end of the stationary upper horizontal
arm of the machine ;
Figure 5 is a front-view of the lower portion of the machine drawn at an
enlarged scale;
Figure 6 is an underside view of a disc with a curved groove intended as a
substitute for the similar disc represented in the central part of Fig. 2.
Figure is a view of a modified construction of the feed mechanism for the
material required to be provided with the seams in question ;
Figure 8 is a side-view of the left hand mechanism of the arrangement shown in
Figure 7.
Figure 9 is a vertical section of the said mechanism ;
Figures 10 & 11 represent by way of example two different designs for the
seams; and
Figs. 12-14 show the manner in which the thread-loops are formed and
interlocked in order to produce the said seams.
The main parts of our improved sewing machine are designed for producing at
one time two series of curved stitches having the same radius of curvature, and for
feeding the material in the direction of the plane of the two needles (or, as the case
may be, one vibrating needle producing alternately one stitch in one series and the
next in the other series, and so forth) and in a direction perpendicular to the former
one. By suitably timing the succession and the coincidence, or the alternate
succession and coincidence, of these two displacements, and causing the latter to
occur during the working of the two parallel needles or of the vibrating needle,
there is formed a more or less curved seam the breadth of which is reduced either
at one end or at both ends, until it finally terminates into one or more points.
Two of such seams have been shown by way of example in Figs. 10 and 11.
In the construction of our improved machine shown in the drawings, we make
use of two vertical needles a a¹ (Fig. 4) attached to a vertical needle-bar a 2. The

page_text: latter is guided by the head 62 of the stationary arm 6' of the machine; this head
is hollow, and the bar a 2 is furnished within the said head with a double-
projection a 3 having an angular groove with curved wings, as clearly shown in
Fig. 3. This grooved projection is connected by a pin to a crank-disk c¹ (Figs. 3
& 4) which is fixed to the horizontal shaft c carrying at its rear end a cord-pulley c 2
and a fly-wheel c³ (Fig. 1). The shaft c is rotated by a treadle (not shown) or any
other suitable gear by the aid of the cord-pulley c 2, but this latter may obviously
be replaced by any other suitable part, such as a crank, an eccentric, a cog-wheel
and the like.
The two needles a a' (or the vibrating needle) co-operate with a shuttle d5
(Figure 2), the carrier d of which is actuated from the main shaft c by the aid of
the bevel-wheels d d' (Fig. 1), the vertical shaft d 2, the crank d3 (Fig. 2) and
the connecting-rod d4. The shuttle d 5 carries its thread e 4 (Fig. 12) through the
loops e e 3 of the threads e e 2; the thread e 4 subsequently draws the loop e along
with it so as to cause it to assume a position parallel to the material f (which is to
be provided with the curved ornamental seams) as shown in Fig. 13. Whilst the
loop is held in that position, the needles move upwards, and the loop e 3 is
thereby drawn tight so as to fasten the shuttle-thread e4. The loops e' represent
the broad seam, and are fastened by the shuttle thread, whereas the latter is
fastened by the loops e 3. This is clearly shown in Fig. 13, in which for the sake
of distinctness the several loops are shown at greater intervals one from the other,
than really exist. It will be readily seen, that the ornamental seams proper are
produced on the lower side of the material f.
To feed the material in order to produce curved seams such as shown in Figs. 10
& 11, we provide a sliding plate 9 (Figs. 1, 3 and 5) which is operated by the
eccentric groove A¹ of the disk h (Figs. I and 6) with the aid of a link h 2. The
link his connected to the sliding plate 9 by means of the screw h³ and as the disc h
revolves it imparts motion to the tracer 4 which is fixed to the crank lever 7
connected to the link h³ having a pin 5 which is guided within the slot / of the
said crank lever / fulcrumed at h; this tracer following the excentric groove '.
The pin h causes, when turns, the link to move on the pin entering the slot 20
of the said link. " is an index or guide. The disk his exchangeable or there
may be several disks having each a special curve; the movements of the sliding
plate g depend upon the configuration of the curved groove h³, and the configuration
of the curved seams depends upon the movements of the said sliding plate. Each
disk h, or its groove, acts, therefore, as a gauge, and produces a distinct, shape of
seam; the groove shown in Figure 2 produces seams of the shape shown in
Fig. 10, and the groove shown in Fig. 6 produces seams of the shape shown in
Fig. 11.
The material placed upon the sliding plate g is held upon the latter by the four
gripping or feed wheels & mounted on the shafts (Figs. 13 & 5) and is, therefore,
fed together with the said plate; the material, however, has also a motion upon
the sliding plate which is imparted by the said wheels. The latter are held by the
lower ends of double-armed thumb levers & fulcrumed upon the shaft 2. The
latter is supported by a frame k (Fig. 1) and carries two cog-wheels : 3, meshing
with similar wheels 4 coupled with the said gripping wheels i and mounted on the
shafts carried by the forked bearings. Each wheel i is coupled with one of the
said cog-wheels i4; the bearings for the short shafts & connecting these two parts
are formed in the lower ends of the levers upon which the springs act in such
a manner, that the gripping or feed wheels i are constantly pressed upon the
material; but if required these wheels may be raised from the material by the upper
thumb pieces or arms of the said levers. One pair of the gripping wheels i and i4 is
arranged in front of the needles, while the other is placed at the rear thereof, and
the lines of contact of the gripping or feed wheels ii lie exactly in the plane of the
said needles.
The frame k is screwed to the sliding plate g, and hence moves to and fro in the
same direction and to the same extent as the said sliding plate. To enable the

page_text: P,
shaft 2 to rotate in any position of the said frame, it is provided at its inner end
with a bevel-wheel m² supported by a fixed bearing m (Fig. 1). This bevel-
wheel m³ gears with a similar wheel m 2 fixed to a vertical shaft n (Fig. 3). The
latter extends below the main-plate o of the machine, and carries below the same a
cog-wheel n¹ gearing with a similar wheel n 2 mounted upon a vertical shaft
Figs. 1 & 3. This shaft carries also the grooved disk h before mentioned, as well
as a large ratchet-wheel p¹. The wheel n' mounted on the shaft p and the disc /
are firmly connected together and are operated by means of a pawl p 2 (Fig. 2)
secured to a sliding bar p3. The latter is connected to the lower end of a double-
armed leverrr (Fig. 1) fulcrumed to the arm 6' of the machine, and the upper end
of which bears upon a segment r 2 secured to the front side of the cord-pulley a 2.
The arm is constantly pressed against the projection r 2 by a spring p4 (Fig. 1)
secured at one end to the main-plate o, and at the other end to the sliding bar p 3.
If, therefore, the latter has been withdrawn in consequence of the action of the
projection 2 upon the leverrr, the same is subsequently drawn back into its
former position by the spring p 4, and the pawl p 2 takes them into another recess
of the ratchet-wheel p¹.
The parts p¹, h, n2, n¹, n, m 2, m', i2, i3, 14 and i are thus operated inter-
mittently, and the extent of each stroke depends on the number of ratchet-teeth
covered by the pawl p 2 on its return. To alter the extent of the strokes, we have
provided the adjustable eccentrics (indicated in dotted lines in Figs. 1 & 2), which
serves as a stop for a pin r3 fixed to the arm r of the lever r¹. This eccentric
may be adjusted by a lever or thumb-piece s¹. When the latter is turned in a
direction opposite to that of the hands of a clock (looking from below, as in Fig. 2),
the stroke of the pin r3 is shortened and the number of the teeth of the ratchet-
wheel covered by the back-going pawl is decreased.
The mechanism for intermittently feeding the material upon the sliding plate g
(comprising the wheels i, and the parts transmitting the rotary motion of the shaft i 2
to the said wheels) may be modified as shown in Figs. 7-9. In these figures the
frame k (which still serves as a bearing for the shaft i 2) forms a tubular guide k¹
in front for the sliding bar k2, acted upon by a spring constantly tending to push
this bar downwards. The latter carries at its lower end a horizontal tubular
guide for the bar k 4, which is acted upon by a spring constantly tending to push
this bar out of the horizontal tubular guide. The bar k 4 carries at its outer end
two arms k 5 to which is secured the feeder k 6.
The latter is designed to feed the material in the direction indicated by the
small arrow in Fig. 9. To operate the feeder accordingly, the shaft 2 is
furnished with two cams i5 i6 arranged one (6) behind the other (5). The
cam i6 actuates the feeder together with the material in the direction of the arrow
(Fig. 9), whereas the other cam raises the guide k 3 and the feeder away from the
material. The cam i 6 acts upon an adjustable finger t arranged at the lower end
of the tubular guide k³, and connected with the sliding bar k4 by a pin entering a
suitable slot of the said guide. The cam i5 acts directly upon the latter guide.
The direction of rotation of the two cams is the reverse to that of the hands of a
clock (Fig. 9). When, therefore, the bar k4 and the feeder have been fully moved
to the left by the cam i6, the tubular guide k 3 is raised by the cam i5; soon after
the slide 4 is released, this release being subsequently followed, when the feeder
has regained its former position, by that of the guide k³.
We wish it to be understood, that the curved ornamental seams need not
indispensably be formed by the needle threads alone, but we may combine with
these threads a cord or cords held and guided so as to be fastened or sewn to the
material by means of the said threads. In the improved machine shown in
Figures 1, 3 & 5 we have arranged a special cord-guide to which is secured to the
lower end of a double armed lever x, fulcrumed upon a suitable projection of the
frame head 62. This cord-guide may be operated by any of the well known
mechanisms used for this purpose; we prefer, however, to allow the lever
oscillate not only in its own vertical plane, but also in another vertical plane
to

page_text: perpendicular to the first plane. In the construction shown, the upper end of the
lever is connected by means of a link y (Figure 1) to a bar z capable of sliding
in a slot of the stationary arm 6².
10
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we
claim is :-
1. In sewing-machines for the production of curved ornamental seams, the
combination with one or more needles arranged and operated so as to produce two
series of stitches, of means for feeding the material in its plane in two directions
perpendicular one to the other, and both of which are perpendicular to the plano
of motion of the said needle or needles, substantially as herein described &
shown.
2. In sewing-machines for the production of curved ornamental seams, the
combination with one or more needles arranged and operated so as to produce two
series of stitches, of a sliding plate for supporting the material and feeding it in its
plane perpendicularly to the plane of motion of the said needle or needles; of
means for feeding the material upon the said sliding bar perpendicularly to the
direction of motion of the latter; and of means for operating the said sliding plate
substantially as herein described & shown.
3. In sewing-machines for the production of curved ornamental seams, the
combination with one or more needles arranged and operated so as to produce two
series of stitches, of a sliding plate adapted to support the material and to feed it
in its plane perpendicularly to the plane of motion of the said needle or needles;
of gripping wheels adapted to feed the material upon the said sliding table
perpendicularly to the direction of motion of the latter; and of means for operating
the sliding table and the gripping wheels substantially as herein described and
shown.
4. In sewing-machines for the production of curved ornamental seams, the
combination with one or more needles arranged and operated so as to produce two
series of stitches, of a sliding plate for supporting the material, and feeding it in its
plane in the direction of the plane of motion of the said needle or needles; of
means for feeding the material upon said table perpendicularly to the direction of
motion of the latter; and of rotating a gauge adapted to transmit motion from the
source of power to the said sliding plate substantially as herein described and
shown.
5. In sewing-machines for the production of curved ornamental seams, the
combination with one or more vertical needles adapted to produce two series of
stitches, of a horizontal sliding plate supporting the material, and feeding it in the
direction of the plane of motion of the said needle or needles; of gripping wheels
for feeding the material upon the said sliding plate perpendicularly to the direction
of motion of the latter; of exchangeable rotating disks having differently curved
grooves, and adapted to transmit motion from the source of power to the said
sliding plate of mechanism connecting the said gripping wheels with the shaft
destined to receive either of the said disks, substantially as herein described.
6. In sewing-machines for the production of curved ornamental seams, the
combination with. one or more vertical needles adapted to produce two series of
stitches, of a horizontal sliding plate for supporting the material and feeding it in
the direction of the plane of motion of the said needle or needles; and of gripping
wheels feeding the material upon said plate perpendicularly to the direction of
motion of the latter; of exchangeable rotating disks having differently curved
grooves, and transmitting motion from the source of power to the said sliding
plate; mechanism connecting the said wheels with the shaft destined to receive
either of said disks; of a ratchet-wheel secured to the said shaft; of a pawl for
transmitting motion from the source of power to the said wheel; and of meaus for
varying the stroke of the said pawl, substantially as herein described and
shown.

page_text: 7. In sewing-machines for the production of curved ornamental seams, the
general arrangement and combination of the parts for feeding the material
substantially as herein described, and shown in Figs. 1 & 3, and in Figs. 7 & 9.
Dated this 19th day of December 1895.
RICHARD HAASE
and
SIEGMUND SALINGER,
By De Katow & Co.,
Agents for the Applicants.