The Manufacture of an Improved Woven Figured Fabric.
Year: 1898

page_text: Date of Application, 2nd Apr., 1898-Accepted, 7th May, 1898
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
The Manufacture of an Improved Woven Figured Fabric.
I, WILLIAM RICHARD GIBBS FAREY, of Firth Shed, Skipton, in the County of York,
Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement :-
My invention relates to the manufacture of an improved woven figured fabric
produced without the use of doupe healds and having a spider or embroidery effect
on the face of the fabric with a smooth and firm back on the reverse side of the
figure whereas prior to my invention, in similar fabrics having figures produced with
the use of doupe healds by the well known leno motion, the reverse of the leno leaves
an open and ragged back on the fabric due to the crossing of the warp threads.
In the accompanying sheet of drawings-
Fig. 1 is a diagram representing how the ends forming the pattern are drawn
into the healds.
Fig. 2 represents the pegging plan or order of shedding and shows how the warp
ends are lifted and lowered in the healds to form the pattern and
Fig. 3 represents the interweaving of warp and weft as arranged in Figs. 1
and 2.
In Fig. 1 the letters A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, designate the heald staves and the
numerals 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15 and 16, denote the ordinary
ground warp threads and 34, 35, the threads of the extra warp which forms the
figure.
In Fig. 2 the numerals 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32,
denote the picks of weft required to complete the figured fabric. The single crosses
in Fig. 2 denote those ends of the ground warp which are lifted over the picks of
weft and the blank spaces represent those ends of the ground warp which are
depressed and are under the picks of weft. The crosses made with double lines
represent the extra warp used to form the figure producing the spider or embroidery
effect..
The operation is as follows:-
The warp ends 1, 2, 15, and 16 are drawn in on the heald staves A and B and
form the ground work of the cloth.
The warp ends 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, are drawn in on the heald staves C and D, and the
warp ends 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, and 14 are drawn in on the heald staves G and H.
The warp ends 34, 35, of the extra warp used to form the embroidery effects are
drawn in on the heald staves E and F.
The warp ends drawn in on A and B may be varied or added to as desired to form
any required pattern or design.
By drawing in the warp ends as shown in Fig. 1 in conjunction with the order of
shedding illustrated by Fig. 2, I produce the pattern shown in Fig. 3 and can
produce a variety of patterns by merely altering the order of shedding.
The ground of the fabric may be plain, twill or other weave as desired,
and any suitable number of heald staves may be employed to weave the figured
fabric.
From Fig. 3 it will be clearly seen that the extra warp threads 34, 35, which

page_text: produce the spider or embroidery effect are floated on the face of the fabric and not
crossed as is the case with similar fabrics woven with doupe healds in the ordinary
way, and cloth woven according to my invention is smooth at the back and altogether
more perfectly made than heretofore.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is
The manufacture of an improved woven figured fabric having a spider or
embroidery effect produced by interweaving the warps and weft without the
use of doupe healds and without crossing the warp threads substantially as herein
set forth.
1 "
11000
H. B. BARLOW & GILLETT,
Agents for Applicant, 17, St. Ann's Square, Manchester.