AN IMPROVED MACHINE FOR PLAITING, TUCKING, OB FOLDING AND DIVIDING LINES AND OTHER TEXTILE FABRICS
Year: 1869

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to John Stevens, of Orange, New Jersey, United
States of America, now of 8, Southampton Buildings, Chancery
Lane, in the County of Middlesex, Merchant and Manufacturer, for
the Invention of "AN IMPROVED MACHINE FOR PLAITING, TUCKING, OB
FOLDING AND DIVIDING LINES AND OTHER TEXTILE FABRICS."
Bealed the 4th May 1869, and dated the 5th January 1869.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said John Stevens at the
Offlro of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
6th January 1860.
I, JOHN STEVENS, of Orange, New Jersey, United States of America,
now of 8, Southampton Buildings, Ohancery Lane, in the County of
Middlesex, Merchant and Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature
of the said Invention for "A IMPROVED MACHINE FOR PLATTING, TUCKING,
OR FOLDING AND DIVIDING LIVES AND OTHER TEXTILE FABRICS," to be as
follows:-
My Invention relates to a machine for producing lengthwise, in strips
of linen or other suitable textile fabrics, continuous plaits or folds, and

page_text: for cutting such strips into portions of the required length to form shirt
fronts, skirts, or other articles.
The said Invention consists chiefly in the peculiar devices for giving
the required form or configuration to the plaiting, in the means for
delivering the linen or other fabric properly to the plaiting devices, in
the construction and arrangement of apparatus for holding and adjusting
the said plaiting devices, in the means for creasing the plaits after they
have been formed by the said devices, in the combination with the same
of a pair of rollers for drawing the fabric through the machine, and in
the cutting mechanism for dividing the strips into portions of the
required length, and in the means for guiding the said strips from the
draught rollers to the cutting mechanism.
The said Invention also consists in combining together the parts of
the machine in such a manner that the various operations of delivering
the fabric to the plaiting devices, forming and creasing the plaits or folds,
and dividing the strips into portions of the required length, are properly
and expeditiously effected.
The said Invention also consists in the means for winding the strips
upon the spools, and at the same time soaping their surfaces without
causing the fabric to shrink.
The various parts of the machine are placed upon a table of wood or
other suitable material, which is supported at a convenient height upon
a frame or stand of any suitable construction. The spool or reel where-
on the strips are wound, and from which they are delivered to the
plaiting devices; is arranged at one end of an adjustable carriage, which
also carries two adjustable rollers, one of which turns the hem to be
formed at the edge of the strip, while the other delivers the fabric
properly to the plaiting devices. The said devices consist of two series
of narrow folding strips or blades arranged together with spaces between
them. The ends of each series of blades lie in the spaces between the g
other series, such spaces being always wider than the blades, so that the
fabric can be drawn through the said spaces, and in being drawn through
will be compelled to assume the form or configuration of the space or
opening left between the two series of folding blades. The spaces
between the said folding blades are formed by means of separating strips
or plates, the folding and separating plates being: arranged together

page_text: alternately and secured by a screw clamp or other suitable holding
device. The frame or holder in which the said blades are held is pivotted
at its centre to a bracket or block which is made laterally adjustable
upon the table. By this means the work may bo always kept horizontal
or in a position parallel with the rollers and creasers and central with
the same. The holding frame is provided with pinching screws and with
clamping bars or plates for securing the folding blades when the same
I have been properly arranged together. For forming the central or
"box" plait of a shirt front I employ a separate plate, which is scoured
upon the adjustable frame in combination with the series of folding
blades. This separate plate consists of a thin piece of metal doubled or
bent into the proper form to produce the said "box" plait. The
creasing or compressing of the plaits after they have been formed in the
fabric is effected by means of two or more straight bars arranged
together, so that the strips of fabric pass alternately over the edge of
one bar and under the edge of the next bar. These creasing bars are
arranged between the folding plates and the draught rollers. The latter
are provided with a cover of india-rubber or other soft material, and are
provided at each end with adjusting screws or other means whereby the
pressure or pinch can be regulated, so that the fabric may be drawn
evenly through the machine. The said fabric after passing between
these rollers is conducted through a guide to the cutting mechanism,
which consists of a fixed blade and movable knife or.cutter. The latter
is operated by means of a tappet on a wheel, which is geared into one
of the roller wheels. A number of these tappet wheels of different
diameters are provided to vary the ratio between the speed of the rollers
and the knife, in order to cut the strips of fabric into pieces of any
desired length. Linen and other woven fabric as manufactured is too
wide to be commonly plaited in my machine; I therefore divide the
same into three or more strips or bands which are wound upon the spool.
It is found that soap applied to the surfaces of the fabric facilitates the
working of the same, I therefore, in coiling it upon the spool, cause the
strip to pass between two bars of soap. The spool and soap are carried
in a frame or stand, the spools being readily transferred from the
3 machine to the winding frame, and vice versa. The linen fabric as it
comes from the manufacturer is folded or doubled at the centre,
and for the purpose of opening or undoubling the same I provide
the winding stand with a triangular board or plate. The doubled

page_text: strip is drawn over the point of the board and between the same and
a flat bar, and is thereby opened as it is wound on the spool.
=>
The folding blades are made of steel or other suitable metal; the edges
of the said blades are rounded or curved and made smooth to prevent
their injuring the linen or other fabric as it passes between them. The
separating plates or packers which may be made of metal, wood, paste-
board or other materials must also have their edges rounded. The frame
or holder wherein the folding blades are secured is preferably made of
cast iron, each end of the said frame being formed with side pieces
between which the said blades are placed, the screws for holding the
blades being passed through nuts or screw plates fixed at the top of the
said side pieces. The separate plate or folder for forming the "box"
plait of shirt fronts is attached to the said frame by means of a screw
which passes through a slot in the folder. In some cases it is not
desirable to use this separate folding plate, and for this reason the holding
frame is constructed to allow the outer portion of the fabrio to pass
without plaiting. I prefer to employ two sets of the creasing bars, one
set being arranged close to the plaiting device and the other set near the
draught rollers. These bars are straight flat pieces of iron or other
suitable metal extending across the machine and arranged parallel with
the rollers. The fabric passes over the upper edge of the two outer bars
and under the lower edge of the middle bar, and the edges of the plaits
are thereby creased or compressed. The upper bar is for convenience
hinged at one end so that it may be raised to release the fabric if desired.
If it is desired to dispense with these creasing bars or plates the creasing
of the plaiting or folding may be effected by the draught rollers. The
rollers are supported in upright standards, and the bearings of the upper
roller are made adjustable so that by screws or other means the rollers
may be made to pinch the work more or less at each end as desired. By
this means and by providing the rollers with the india-rubber covering I
am enabled to regulate the draught at either side of the fabric, and to cause
the same to pass evenly through the machine. The tappet wheel is
carried on a stud which is secured in a slot in a bracket fixed on the
table, and by drawing back this stud in its slot the cutting mechanism
is thrown out of gear. The strips may then be plaited continuously
throughout the entire lenght of the web, thereby affording the opportunity
of stiching it in one continous strip, which is a great advantage in using

page_text: a sowing machine. The guide for conducting the plaited strip to the
cutting mechanism is made somewhat in the shape of a trough with an
aperture through the bottom, immediately below which aperture the
stationary blade of the cutting apparatus is fixed. The movable blade
is pivotted at one end of the fixed blade of the cutting apparatus and is
provided at its free and with a stud or projection for the tappet to act upon.
The said free end is drawn back after each stroke of the tappet by means
of a spring or weight. To prevent the cutting of the strips obliquely by
this vibrating blade I place inside the guide a bar or rod which is BO
arranged that the edge of the fabric first acted on by the knife is carried
forward a slight distance beyond the other edge before the same is stopped
by the said knife. The spool whereon the strips are coiled or wound is
provided with two flanges, one of which is made adjustable to adapt the
said spool to strips or bands of various widths. The spools are also pro-
vided at one end with a break wheel and clamp or other means of
regulating the tension of the fabric as it is drawn through the machine.
The strips of fabric must be coiled evenly upon the spool with one edge
in contact with the fixed flange. The small roller which turns the hem
at the edge of the strip is made to adjust laterally on centres supported in
upright standards fixed in the adjustable carriage. The hem is formed
by a flange on this roller, and the width of the hem depends upon the
lateral distance between the flange of the roller and that of the spool.
The fabric passes from the spool over this roller and thence under an
adjustable roller which regulates the delivery of the said fabric to the
plaiting device. This latter roller is also made laterally adjustable upon
centres or otherwise, and by increasing or diminishing the lateral distance
between its end and the flange of the upper roller more or less of the
fabric is left at the edge to form the "box" plait. The machine should
be provided with two or more of these delivery rollers, each being
differently formed to suit different work. For forming narrow plaits I
prefer that the roller should be straight or nearly so, but for wide plaiting
the roller should be full or large in the centre, the curvature or enlarge.
ment being more or less according to the width of the plaiting. In forming
narrow plaits it is also desirable that the delivery roller should be set
near the plaiting device, as in consequence of the more noute angle then
formed by the sides of the work between the said roller and plaiting
device the work is stretched more tightly and the plaits are theroby more
evenly and accurately formed. In wide plaiting I prefer to increase the

page_text: distance between the delivery roller and the plaiting device, the required
adjustment being readily effected by means of the movable. carriage
whereon the said rollers and the spool are supported.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said John Stevens in the Great Seal Patent Office on
the 5th July 1869.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JOHN
STEVENS, of Orange, New Jersey, United States of America, now of
No. 8, Southampton Buildings, Chancery Lane, in the County of
Middlesex, Merchant and Manufacturer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Fifth day of January, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-nine, in the thirty-
second year of Her 'reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors,
give and grant unto me, the said John Stevens, Her special licence
that I, the said John Stevens, my executors, administrators, and assigns,
or such others as I, the said John Stevens, my executors, admi-
nistrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others,
from time to time and at all times thereafter during the term thercin
expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend,
within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel
Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention of "AN IMPROVED MACHINE FOR
PLAITING, TUCKING, OR FOLDING AND DIVIDING LINEN AND OTHER TEXTILE
FABRICS," upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said John
Stevens, my executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing
under, my, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly
describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what
manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed
in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and
immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said John Stevens, do hereby declare
the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to
be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the

page_text: following statement, reference being had to the accompanying Drawings
forming a part of this Specification :-
My Invention relates to a machine for producing lengthwise in strips
of linen or other suitable textile fabric continuous plaits or folds, and for
cutting such strips into portions of the required length to form shirt
fronts, skirts, or other articles.
The said Invention consists chiefly in the peculiar devices for giving
the required form or configuration to the plaiting, in the means for
delivering the linen or other fabric properly to the plaiting devices, in
the construction and arrangement of apparatus for holding and adjusting
the said plaiting devices, in the means for creasing the plaits after they
have been formed by the said devices, in the combination with the same
of a pair of rollers for drawing the fabric through the machine, in the
peculiar action of the cutting mechanism for dividing the strips into
portions of the required length, and in the means for guiding the said
strips from the draught rollers to the cutting mechanism.
The said Invention also consists in combining together the parts of
the machine in such a manner that the various operations of first
delivering the fabric to the plaiting devices, then forming and creasing
the plaits or folds, and finally dividing the strips into portions of the
required length are properly and expeditiously effected.
The said Invention also consists in the means employed in combination
with the above-mentioned devices for winding the strips upon the spools
and at the same time preparing the fabric for being worked by applying
soap to its surfaces in a manner which does not cause it to shrink.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.

page_text: a frame or stand a¹ of any desired construction. The spool or real à
whereon the strips are wound and from which they are delivered to the
platting device is supported in standards 6' arranged at one end of an
adjustable carriage c, which also carries two adjustable rollers d and e.
In forming shirt fronts or other similar work it is necessary that a hem
should be made at the edge of the strip of linen or other fabric; the
roller d turns this hem, while the other roller e delivers the fabrio
properly to the plaiting devices. The said devices consist of two series
of narrow folding strips or blades f arranged together with spaces
between them, as clearly shown in Figure 5. The ends of the blades of 1
each series lie in the spaces between those of the other series, such
spaces being always wider than the blades, so that when each series of
blades is fitted into the spaces of the other series there is still a space
left between the blades, through which the fabric can be drawn. It will
thus be seen that the blades form a die whose form or configuration 1
depends upon the relative positions of the blades and the fabric in
passing through the same will he folded or doubled throughout the
entire length of the plaiting into a corresponding form or pattern. The
spacing of separation of the folding blades fis accomplished by means of
separating strips or plates 9, which are placed between the folding 2
blades; when the blades and strips are properly arranged together they
are secured by a screw clamp or other suitable holding device, The
frame or holder i in which the two series of the folding blades are held
is pivotted at its centre to a bracket or block, which is made
laterally adjustable upon the table a. The holder i can be adjusted upon 2
the pivot to any desired angle, so that whatever may be the number of
folds or the configuration of the plaiting the work may always leave the
folding devices horizontally or in a position parallel with the creasing
bars and rollers which finish the plaiting, while the lateral adjustment of
the brackets allows it to be kept central with the same. The holding 3
frame i is provided with pinching screws and with clamping bars or
plates
for securing the series of folding blades in the said frame.
When a series of these blades has been properly arranged together for
any particular form or pattern of plaiting and secured by the clamp /
the said series can he removed from the holder i without separating the 3
blades or destroying the pattern, and can be placed on one side for
future use, while other series of blades arranged for another pattern or
description of plaiting are used in the machine. Shirt fronts are usually

page_text: formed with a central or "box" plait. For producing this plait in the
strip I employ a separate plate k, which is secured upon the adjustable
frame in combination with the series of folding blades f, as shewn in
Figures 8, 5, and 6. This separate or auxiliary plate is a thin strip of
metal with its end doubled or bent into the proper form to produce the
said "box" plait as the fabric is drawn through the machine. Thio'
creasing or-compressing of the plaits after they leave the folding blades f
is effected by means of the straight bars, which, as shewn in Figures 1
and 2, are so arranged together that the strip of fabric passos alternately
over the edge of one bar. and under the edge of the next bar, so that
the pattern or configuration previously given to the plaiting by the
folding blades is confirmed by the action of the said bars before the
plaiting passes between the draught rallers n. These rollers are provided
with a covering of india-rubber or other soft material, and at each end
thereof is an adjusting screw n' or other means whereby the pinch or
pressure of the rallers upon the plaiting can be equalized across the
entire width of the fabric, which is thus drawn with the same tension at
each side, and will therefore pass evenly through the folding and
creasing devices. The fabric as it leaves these rollers is conducted
through a guide o to the cutting mechanism, which consists of a fixed
blade p and movable knife or cutter p'. The latter is operated by means
of a tappot q on a wheel r, which is geared into the roller wheel n*. It
will be obvious that the length of the pieces cut from the plaited strips
will depend upon the relative velocity of the tappet wheel and the
rollers, and a number of interchangeable tappet wheels of different
diameter should be provided, so that the speed of tho knife may be
varied in order to cut the strips of fabric into pieces of any desired
length.
It is found that by soaping the surfaces of the fabric the stitching
of the same in a sewing machine is greatly facilitated, and I apply tho
soap thereto in coiling the strip upon the spool b. For this purpose I
construct a frame of suitable size, on which frame I mount a box s'j
wherein I place two bars of soap & in such a manner that the strips can
be drawn between them; I weight the upper bar of soap, or otherwise
apply pressure thereto to ensure the desired effect upon the fabric as it
passes between the bars. By using dry soap I obtain the desired result
without causing the fabric to shrink, as would be the case if the soap

page_text: were applied in the form of a liquid, and I prevent the necessity of the
after application of the soap by the hand of the operator when the work
is taken to the sewing machine. The said frame is provided with
bearings to receive the spools b, which when filled are readily
transferred from the fiame to the standards 6' on the sliding carriage c.
The linen fabric usually employed for shirt fronts and for similar
purposes as it comes from the manufacturer is folded or doubled
lengthwise at the cent;e. For the purpose of opening or undoubling
the same I provide the winding and soaping stand & with a triangular
board or plate t.. The doubled strip of fabric is drawn over the front of
this board and between the same and a flat bar t¹, and is thereby opened
as it is wound upon the spool 6. The folding blades f are made of steel
or other suitable metal; the edges of the said blades are rounded or
curved and made smooth, as shewn in Figure 6, to prevent their injuring
the linen or other fabric as it passes between them. The separating
plates or packers g, which may be made of metal, wood, pasteboard, or
other suitable materials, inust also have their edges rounded. The frame
or holder i wherein the folding blades are secured is preferably made of
cast iron, each end of the said frame being formed with vertical sides,
between which the said lades fit loosely in such manner that they can ?
be readily inserted or withdrawn, the screws for holding the blades being
passed through nuts or screw plates is fixed at the top of the said side
picces. The separate plate or folder / for forming the "box" plait of
shirt fronts is attached to the frame i by means of a screw k³, which
passes through a slot in the said folder. In some cases it is not
desirable to use this separate folding plate, and for this reason the
holding frame is constructed to allow the outer portion of the fabric
to pass freely without plaiting when the said folder is removed. I prefer
that the two sets of creating bars should be arranged as shewn, that
is, one set close to the folding bars, and the other set near the draught
rollers. These bars are straight flat pieces of iron or other suitable
metal extending across the machine and arranged parallel with the said
rollers. The fabric passes over the upper edge of the two outer bars
and under the lower edge of the middle bar, and the edges of the plaits
are thereby creased or compressed. The upper bar is preferably hinged
at one end, so that it may be raised to release the fabric if desired. If
it is desired to dispense with these creasing bars or plates the creasing
of the plaiting or folding may be effected by the draught rollers 1 alone.

page_text: The said roners are supported m uprigat standards 76 and
of the upper roller are made adjustable to allow of the separation or
closing of the rollers. By this means and by providing the rollers with
the india-rubber covering I am enabled to regulate the draught at either
side of the fabric, and to cause the same to páss evenly through the
machine. The tappet wheel is carried on a stud r³, which is secured
in a slot in the bracket fixed on the table a, and by drawing back this
stud in its slot the cutting mechanism is thrown out of gear. The strips
may then be plaited continuously throughout the entire length of the
web, thoreby affording the opportunity of stitching it in one continuous
strip, which is a great advantage when tho work is done with a sowing
machine.
It will be seen by referring to Figure 2 that the guide o for conducting
the plaited strip to the cutting mechanism is made somewhat in the
shape of a trough with an aperture through the bottom, immediately
below which aperture the stationary blade p of the cutting apparatus
is arranged. The movable blade p' is pivoted at p" to the fixed blade,
and is provided at its free end with a stud or projection p for the
tappet g to act upon. The said free end is drawn back after each stroke
of the tappet by means of a spring q' or a weight. This vibrating blade
would naturally divide the strips obliquely across the plaiting, whereas
it is necessary that the said strips should be cut or divided at right
angles to the plaiting. I therefore place inside the guide o a bar or rod
which is so arranged that the edge of the fabric first acted on by the
knife is carried forward a slight distance beyond the other edgo beforo
the same is stopped by the said knife. The spool or reel 6 whereon the
strips are coiled or wound is provided with two flanges b', &, one of
which is made adjustable to adapt the said spool to strips or bands
of various widths. The spools are also provided at one end with a brake
wheel band clamp &, or other means of regulating the tension of the
fabric as it is drawn through the machine. The strips of. fabric must be
coiled evenly upon the spool 6 with one edge in contact with the
fixed flange. The small roller d which turns. the hem at the edge
of the strip is made to adjust laterally on the centres d' supported in
upright standards d fixed on the movable carriage c. The hem is
formed by a flange d³ on this roller, and the width of the hem depends
upon the lateral distance between the flange d³ of the roller d and the

page_text: flange of the spool b. The fabric passes from the spool 6 over this
roller d, and thence under the adjustable roller e which regulates the
delivery of the said fabric to the folding or plaiting device. This latter
roller is also made laterally adjustable upon centres e¹ or otherwise, and
by increasing or diminishing the lateral distance between its end e³ and
the flange of the upper roller more or less of the fabric is left at the
edge to form the central or box plait of the shirt front. The machine
should be provided with two or more of these delivery rollers, each
being differently formed to suit different work. In forming narrow
plaits I prefer that the roller should be straight or nearly so, but for
wide plaiting the roller should be full or large in the, centre, as shewn in
Figure 1, the curvature or enlargement being more or less according to
the width of the plaiting. In forming narrow plaits it is also desirable
that the delivering roller e should be set near the folding devices in the
holder, as in consequence of the more acute angle then formed by the
sides of the work between the said roller and folding device the work is
stretched more tightly and the plaits are thereby more evenly and
accurately formed. In wide plaiting I prefer to increase the distance
between the delivering roller and the folding devices, the required
adjustment being readily effected by means of the movable carriage c
whereon the said rollers and spool are supported,
Having thus fully described my said Invention and shewn how the
same may be conveniently and advantageously carried into practise,
I claim,-
First. The adjustable, variable, and removable folding devices for
giving the required configuration to the plaiting, constructed and
arranged substantially as herein set forth.
Second. The combination of the said folding devices with the creasing
bars arranged substantially as set forth.
Third. The combination of the folding devices (with or without the
creasing bars) with the draught rollers, and with the spool and rollers
on the adjustable carriage c, substantially as and for the purposes set
forth.
Fourth. The cutting mechanism constructed, arranged, and operating
in combination with the draught rollers, with the guide, and with the
means for ensuring the proper division of the strips, substantially as
set forth.

page_text: Fifth. The adjustable carriage c with the spool b and rollers & and e,
the folding devices in the adjustable holder, the creasing bars 1, the
draught rollers n, and the cutting mechanism and guide combined, and
operating together for the purpose of forming continuous plaits or folds
in strips of linen or other fabric, substantially as set forth.
Sixth. The coiling and soaping frame provided with means for opening
the doubled fabric and constructed and operating substantially as set
forth.
In witness whereof, I, the said John Stevens, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Third day of July, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-nine.