Improved Fabric particularly applicable for Use as a Lining Material
Year: 1899

page_text: Date of Application, 24th May, 1899-Accepted, 1st July, 1899
Improved Fabric particularly applicable for Use as a Lining Material,
A communication from ERNST RHEINBACH, of Schmiedefeld, near Grossharthau,
Kingdom of Saxony, Empire of Germany.
I, ALFRED JULIUS BOULT, of 111, Hatton Garden, in the County of London,
Chartered Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in
what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascer-
tained in and by the following statement:-
The present invention relates to a fabric principally intended to serve as a
lining material for clothing, as a substitute for the material used up to the present
time, such as horse hair material, stiffening linen and the like. It cannot well
be compared with the ordinary cotton-wool or horse-hair material, or with linen
inasmuch as the latter are employed to obtain stiffness, while the new material
is made elastic, in much the same manner as the recently introduced combination
fabric of wool and horsehair used for twill bindings. Compared with the latter,
however, it is distinguished by its openness and permeability as well as by its
lesser weight and cost of production. A special property of the fabric is that when
it is drawn out or pulled diagonally it will return to its original shape, possessing,
as it were, spring power.
Like the wool-horse hair material referred to above the new fabric when pressed
together, and even when folded will neither break nor be permanently creased.
The material is made of warp and weft threads of some suitable fibre, such as
linen and of thin, spring-wires, say of steel or of some hard elastic copper-alloy
(bronze), which wires are similarly arranged i.e., as warp and weft threads at dis-
tances from each other. The method of weaving or manufacture is usually that
observed in weaving linen.
Figures 1 and 2 represent the new fabric, as an example, in plan view and cross
section respectively. Figure 3 shows a layer made of such material to be used
in the breast part of a gentleman's jacket.
a are the warp threads, b the weft threads of say linen yarn, and c and d the
wires arranged as warp and weft threads respectively. The fabric is made in the
ordinary way as in linen weaving, the wires c and d being introduced and worked
in the same manner as the threads a and b, the linen threads and wires thus
together representing the ordinary linen weaving. The material should be of
loose texture to ensure permeability and light weight and especially the wires
must be so arranged or spaced that the qualification referred to above, of returning
to its original shape when drawn out diagonally is secured. The distance between
the wires should therefore be a multiple of the thread thickness.
When using such material as a lining for clothing as shown at A Figure 3
care should be taken that the wires or threads run diagonally or obliquely. This
is necessary to secure the spring-like action when pulled obliquely; for, of course
in a direction parallel to either the warp or weft threads the material is not
elastic. When thus obliquely arranged the fabric will give according to the shape

page_text: of the garment, rendering it, however, stiff at the same time. When using the
material for the purpose described, it can be used in the manner known to tailors
so as to be somewhat arched or shaped thus raising with it the cloth to which it is
applied. To prevent the wires from penetrating through the cloth the edges
are turned back, sewn down and covered with a strong closely woven binding B
Figure 3.
As regards the principle of the invention the manner of making the material,
and the number of threads between each two wires is of secondary importance.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of this said
invention as communicated to me by my foreign correspondent, and in what
manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I claim is:-
1. A loosely woven lining fabric having at intervals thin elastic or spring warp
and weft wires substantially as described.
2. An elastic fabric substantially as described and illustrated in Figures 1
and 2 of the accompanying drawing.
Dated this 24th day of May 1899
BOULT & WADE,
Agents for the Applicant.