CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN WEAVING AND IN THE MACHINERY EMPLOYED THEREIN
Year: 1863

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Henry Bernoulli Barlow, of the City of Manchester,
Patent Agent, for the Invention of "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN WEAVING
AND IN THE MACHINERY EMPLOYED THEREIN."-A communication from
abroad by Edme Hippolyte Junot, of Paris, in the Empire of France,
Manufacturer.
Sealed the 15th August 1863, and dated the 20th February 1863.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Henry Bernoulli Barlow
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on
the 20th February 1863.
I, HENRY BERNOULLI BARLOW, of the City of Manchester, Patent Agent,
do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "CERTAIN IMPROVE-
MENTS IN WEAVING AND IN THE MACHINERY EMPLOYED THEREIN," a communication
to me from abroad by Edme Hippolyte Junot, of Paris, in the Empire of
France, Manufacturer, to be as follows:-
The object of this Invention is to dispense with the jacquard cards in the
manufacture of figured fabrics, and to facilitate the connection between the
jacquard hooks and the harness.
The pattern or design to be produced in weaving is attached to a table,
which is moved by a screw actuated by a ratchet wheel and toothed rack.
When the number of cords required to produce the pattern is determined,
divide this number by twenty or other convenient division. Another screw is
employed to move the frame containing the register and the pallets or thin

page_text: metal plates, which slide on rods, and are held the proper distance apart by
wedges; diagonal threads pass from one set of pallets to the other. In reading-
in, the operator draws the coloured yarns through the diagonal threads, and
when one line is drawn in, by acting on the first-named rack, another line of
the pattern is brought forward. In passing the catches (embarbes) a hori-
zontal and a vertical "simple" are employed; the latter is furnished with
pistons having long rods hooked to the horizontal "simple." As all the
colours are read at once, it requires as many spindles, plus one, as there are
colors. These spindles are flat, and they are passed through the cords of the
vertical "simple;" they are supported at each end in a wheel connected to a
frame of the said "simple."
The improvements relating to the jacquard hooks and the harness are as
follows: Each hook is made double, and the requisite spring is obtained by
the double form of the hook. The hooks, placed in rows of six or other number,
pass through oval eyes in the needles, and bear on the usual hook board; the
cords for connecting the hooks to the warp threads pass through a comber
board, and they are weighted by lingoes. The three alternate hooks are first
worked twice, then the three intermediate hooks are worked twice, then the
three alternate hooks are worked once, and then the three intermediate hooks
are worked once.
Another modification of this part of the Invention consists in placing the
double hooks in rows of twelve or other number.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Henry Bernoulli Barlow in the Great Seal Patent Office on
the 19th August 1863.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, HENRY
BERNOULLI BARLOW, of the City of Manchester, Patent Agent, send
greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twentieth day of February, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-three, in the twenty-sixth year of
Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me,
the said Henry Bernoulli Barlow, Her special license that I, the said Henry
Bernoulli Barlow, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others
as I, the said Henry Bernoulli Barlow, my executors, administrators, and
assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time

page_text: and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and.
lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of
Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an
Invention for "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN WEAVING AND IN THE MACHINERY
EMPLOYED THEREIN," a communication to me from abroad by Edmé Hippolyte
Junot, of Paris, in the Empire of France, Manufacturer, upon the condition
(amongst others) that I, the said Henry Bernoulli Barlow, my executors or
administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of
their hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature
of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed,
and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six
calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters
Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Henry Bernoulli Barlow, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is
to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement (that is to say) :-
The nature of this Invention consists in dispensing with jacquard cards in
the manufacture of figured fabrics, by which means great economy is effected,
and the most beautiful and intricate designs can be produced.
The machinery employed for performing this Invention is simple and easily
worked.
The Invention also consists in certain improvements in weaver's harness or
mountings.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.
On Sheet 1, Figure 1 is a front elevation, Figure 2 a side view, Figure 3 a
plan, and Figure 4 a detached view, of the improved machinery.
On Sheet 2, Figure 5 is an elevation, and Figure 6 is a side view, of parts
of the same drawn full size.
a is a small frame moving up and down between the columns 8, 8, secured
to the main framing b; c is a toothed and ratchet wheel, the former gearing
into the pinions d, d; e is a toothed wheel gearing into the wheel f, fixed to
the end of the screw 25; g is the driving wheel of the vertical screw 14, on
which is the nut j; h is the eye for the threads to pass through; 1, 1, are
thin blades supported by and moving on rods 10. These blades are kept
apart by the wedges 2, which fit in grooves on the plates 9, and they are held
together by the elastics or springs 3; the blades 1 are connected by the
threads 4, which are drawn tight by springs. 5, 5, are bolts with right and left

page_text: which is acted
hand screws to give a concentric or eccentric motion, according to the reduction
required; to these bolts are fixed the pinions 6, connected by a chain to equalise
their action. The frame a is held in its place by forks 7, which pass around
the bolts 5. The horizontal threads representing the weft are set apart or
brought together by the wedges 12, to which are connected screws. To the
under side of the frame a is fixed the bridle 13, supporting the nut j, in which
the screw 14 passes; this screw has a pinion d gearing into the wheel c. 15 is
a ratchet rack, which is moveable, but can be held by a set screw, as shewn
in Figure 3; this rack is supported in two brackets 16, one of
upon by a spring 18 to hold the rack in gear with the wheel c. The shaft 17
is supported in bearings fixed to the framing b; to one end of the shaft 17 is
fixed the wheel c, and to the other end the wheel 19, gearing into the rack 20
by which it is driven; this rack passes through the pieces 21, 22, and 23, and it
is counterbalanced by a weighted cord to restore it to its original position. To
the bottom of the rack 20 is connected a cord and bandle. The piece 21 has a
set screw to limit the range of the rack 20 to the requisite number of teeth
for moving the design the space of twenty cords; the picce 22 has a spring to
press the rack 20 into gear with the wheel 19; the piece 22 is also provided
with a cord 32 to lower the rack 20 and to raise it again; the piece 23 is a
guide for the rack; 24 is the plate to which the design is fixed; this plate
slides on brackets fixed to the framing b. The screw 25 is driven by the shaft
17 and wheels e, f, and its left-hand end is supported in an open bearing; the
screw 25 gives either advancing or receding motion to the plate 24; the slide
26 moves on the flat box 28, and presses the design against the dividing threads
by a counterweight attached to a square guide. In the screw 25 the weighted
catch 27 takes; it is fixed to the plate 24, and makes it advance or recede. This
entch is acted upon by the cord and weight 31. The rod 29 passes through the
upper rail of the frame b, and rests upon the frame a; by this means the slide
26 and the frame a receive the same motion by a wire which connects them.
The handle and wheel 30, see Figure 2, raise by means of a cord the catch 27,
and draw forward at the same time the plate 24. The band 33 is divided into
millimeters or other suitable divisions to give the proportionate distances between
the threads.
The mode of operation is as follows:-First, attach the design to the
plate 24, and take the height and width of the design in meters or frac-
tions of meters, or other measures.
Secondly, determine the number of cords that the design should contain,
reference being had to the loom in which the design is to be woven; divide
this number by 20, and the quotient will give the number of times the
'

page_text: rack 20 has to move; if there is a fraction over, this traction must count
as twenty.
Thirdly, the machine indicating the number of teeth which the pinions
of the racks 15 and 20 travel in a metre or other fixed measure; it is
easy, by another division, to ascertain how many teeth are required to move
the design for twenty cords. It is evident that the relative proportion of
the design to the traverse of the screw 25 is to be determined. When the
calculations are thus made, the racks are regulated so that they draw the
requisite number of teeth to vary the design.
Fourthly, the calculations and proportions above given by twenty may be
determined by any other number.
Fifthly, the frame a should only move the space of one or two courses, con-
sequently the calculation to be made is not by twenty, but only by the number
of courses to be read off; it is however impossible to read off more than two
at a time on the weft threads.
Sixthly, when the machine is thus in order, the reader has only to look
between the threads to have the division of the colours of the design, and
to dictate them or pass them himself to the "simple;" as he has only to
move the rack 20, he may dispense with an assistant, but in this case the work
is slower. When the course is read in, he has to change the rack 15 to get
fresh weft.
NEW METHOD OF PASSING THE CATCHES "EMBARBES."
A horizontal "simple" placed like a warp is required; also a vertical
"simple," shorter and without elastics. The short "simple" is furnished
with pistons having long spindles, so that they may catch below in the
horizontal "simple." The pistons are provided with weighted cords to tighten
them. As all the colours are read at a time, there must be an equal
number of spindles with one added; these spindles are of flat iron about three
or four centimeters wide and five millimetres thick, or other suitable size, and
equal in length to the "simple." They slide by the aid of a little balance
through the cords of the vertical "simple," as fast as the reader passes the
cords in their respective places. They are held in supports placed at suitable
intervals. When the course has been read, the spindles enter separately at
each end in a wheel fixed on each side of the frame of the vertical "simple."
These wheels have in the centre an opening large enough for two spindles, and
the said wheels, by the aid of a cord and a balance, and of a foot balance, give
the motion for winding the cords on the spindles; in this manner the cords of
the horizontal "simple" are drawn and raised, and at the same moment, by

page_text: the aid of a rod in the form of a shuttle, the catch "embarbe" is passed into
the said horizontal "simple;" when it is full, the vertical simple is discon-
nected, and it is then available as heretofore.
The above apparatus is applicable to any description of design, and I claim
its use to whatever purpose it may be applied.
My improvements in the harness of looms is shewn in Sheet 3. By means of
this improved mounting, the course can be repeated as often as may be neces-
sary, that is to say, whether the number be even or uneven, and that with the
same design and on the same loom without cutting the rib "cote" nor the
flower fleur." This result bas long been sought for, and by it the design is
produced one-fourth finer without a single thread more of warp or weft.
In, the following description two modes are shewn, one with healds, and the
other dispenses entirely with the healds and with the apparatus for drawing
down the warp. I also shew a new jacquard hook with a small heel, which may
be connected and disconnected without being drawn out of its needle. For
repeating the course twice, the two first courses must be worked on the hooks a,
see Figure 7, of Sheet 3, the two following on the hooks b, the fifth on the
hooks a, and the sixth and last on the hooks b. To repeat the course three
times, the two first must be performed on the hooks a, and the third on the
hooks b. To repeat the course four times, the two first are performed on the
hooks a, and the two following on the hooks b. The working of this harness
is very easy. In the first harness with three threads and only three healds
the course can be repeated either with even or uneven numbers, without
changing the design or the loom. The needles have two hooks, and the last
ones are made suitable for the return.
Descriptions of the parts shewn in Figure 7.-1, 1, a and b, are the double
hooks, which have the requisite elasticity without extra springs; these hooks
are turned up below to allow the harness to be connected and disconnected
without withdrawing the needles. 2, 2, are the the ordinary needles with oval
holes; 3, hook board; 4, 4, the connecting cords made of different colours
to avoid mistakes; 5, the cumber board; 6, 6, the mails; 7, 7, the weft; 8, 8,
the warps; 9, 9, the lingoes, one for every three cords or one for each cord;
1,1, crosses indicating the working of the healds; o, o; -, -, circles and
strokes to distinguish the working of the "cote."
To execute the rotation of the six courses, in repeating each course twice,
the hooks a must work the first two courses, then the hooks b for the next two
courses; the fifth course is worked on the hooks a, and the last on the hooks b.
This may be performed on a double grife or otherwise.
Description of Figure 8.-Three threads without healds and drawing down

page_text: threads; for the back there are small rods passing through eyes above the
mails. Either three or six of these rods are employed according to the
back required. In this second harness the results and the details are the
same as in Figure 7, only the working of the hooks is different; thus to repeat
the course twice, the rotation goes by six courses in the following manner:-
First course, the hooks a; second course, the hooks b; third course, the
hooks c; fourth course, the hooks d; fifth course, the hooks b; sixth course,
the hooks c. To repeat the course three times, the rotation is as follows:-
First course, the hooks a; second course, the hooks b; third course, the
hooks c; thus, when the course is repeated three times, the fourth hook is
not required. To repeat the course four times, the fourth hook is required;
thus first course, the hooks a; second course, the hooks b; third course, the
hooks c; and fourth course, the hooks d.
Having thus described the nature and particulars of the Invention, as com-
municated to me by the within-named Edmé Hippolyto Junot, I wish it to be
understood that I do not limit myself to the details given, but I claim the
improvements described whereby figured fabrics may be woven without the
aid of jacquard cards, as shewn in Sheets 1 and 2, and I also claim the
improvements of the harness of looms, as shewn and described in reference to
Sheet 3.
In witness whereof, I, the said Henry Bernoulli Barlow, have hereto
set my hand and seal the Seventeenth day of August, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-three.
זזזA זח . מ ת ח
H. B. BARLOW.