Improvements in Scales or Apparatus for Drafting Patterns of Ladies' and Children's Garments.
Year: 1889

page_text: Date of Application, 26th June, 1889
Complete Specification Left, 26th Mar., 1890-Accepted, 14th June, 1890
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Scales or Apparatus for Drafting Patterns of Ladies'
and Children's Garments.
I, JANE ANN GAUNT, of Godwin Street, Bradford in the County of York,
Dress Maker, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to improvements in scales, or templates or apparatus for
drafting patterns for ladies' and children's garments and its object is to provide a
scale or apparatus adapted to enable the patterns to be drafted independently and
directly on to the lining or material from which the garment is to be made thus
avoiding the necessity of first drafting the pattern on paper as well as insuring
greater accuracy and less liability to error. A further object of the invention is to
provide a scale or apparatus by which to arrange the draping of the material
in the skirt.
I will describe the first part of my invention as applied to the scale or apparatus
for which I have made application for Letters Patent No. 9896 of 1888, consisting of
a thin sheet or template with two straight edges at right angles to each other and
the remaining edge or edges curved in a suitable manner.
I draft the back, back side quarter, front and front side quarter separately and
independently and use in each case a top horizontal line with a vertical line
down from the left hand end to form a guide to facilitate the drafting.
For drafting the back I provide an under arm scale which when the division
representing the under arm measurement is placed upon the waist dot places the
back bust scale in position for marking the first shoulder seam and I so arrange the
various scales upon the apparatus that I obtain the spring of back, waist size and
second back hip dot by placing the waist scale upon the waist dot, and the first back
hip dot is obtained by a slight further movement.
In the back side quarter I obtain the position of bust dot and the waist dots
by a series of perforations and an under arm scale similar to that employed in the
back. I preferably employ a double row of perforations to obtain the bust dot so as
to give French and American measurements. I now mark the length of waist line
and the width of the hips by placing the back side quarter waist scale upon the
waist dot and marking off the several points.
For the front side quarter I provide the hip curve with perforations along the top
and bottom to enable the position of the curves to be marked at different widths
according to size, and similar perforations are provided above to mark off the width
of the front side quarter in proportion with the hip curves.
To mark the position and width of the dart or breast pleats direct in front drafting
I provide a dart chart consisting of a column of figures representing the different
amounts in inches usually taken up by the darts and opposite each amount signs upon
the edges of inclined slots or perforations are provided to give the position of the
darts and a perforation is employed to give the centre of each dart.
The said draping scales are preferably arranged on a separate instrument consisting
of a rectangular card provided on one side with a full size scales for marking off
the points direct on the material for the skirt where it is necessary to fold turn and
crease the material to form various kinds of pleats and forms of draping such as the
various forms of "box pleats," "organ pleats," "cascades" and also to relatively
arrange such pleats.
On the other side of said draping instrument I provide a similar arrange-
ment of reduced scales to enable any style of draping to be tried or drafted in

page_text: miniature and also to enable diagrams arranged on a similar scale to be worked from.
By this instrument persons with comparatively little skill and experience are enabled
to draft skirts accurately and artistically..
Dated this 25th day of Inno 1000
DRACUP & NOWELL,
Bradford, Agents.
COMPLETE
SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Scales or Apparatus for Drafting Patterns of Ladies'
and Children's Garments.
I, JANE ANN GAUNT, of 129, Godwin Street, Bradford in the County of York,
Dress Maker, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement:-
This invention relates to improvement in scales, templates or apparatus for drafting
patterns for ladies' and children's garments and its object is to provide a scale, instru-
ment or apparatus adapted to enable the patterns of a waist or bodice to be drafted
independently and directly on to the lining or material from which the garment is
to be made thus avoiding the inconvenience of first drafting the pattern on paper as
well as insuring greater accuracy and less liability to error. A further object of the
invention is to provide a scale or apparatus by which to arrange the draping of the
material in the skirt.
I will describe the first part of my invention as applied to the scale or apparatus
for which I have obtained Letters Patent No. 9896 of 1888. In the accompanying
drawing Figure 1. represents a reduced view of one side of my improved scale or
instrument showing only those scales and perforations it is desirable to refer to in
order to illustrate the difference between the present improvements and my previous
invention, and to avoid confusion it has not been deemed advisable to show or refer
in detail to those features in my improved scale or instrument which are identical
with those described in the specification of the above cited Letters Patent, and
which though used in combination therewith form no part of the present invention.
Figure 2 is a similar view of the other side of said instrument. And Figures 3
and 4 are similar views of a separate instrument provided with an arrangement for
directly marking the darts or breast pleats, which instrument is only employed to
avoid overcrowding the instrument illustrated in figures 1 and 2, and both instru-
ments are preferably cut from the same rectangular piece of card board.
Figures 5 and 6 are reduced views of opposite sides of the above mentioned
draping scale.
I draft the back, back side quarter, front and front side quarter separately and
independently and use two guide lines similar to those represented in figures 1 and 2
by the dotted lines a and b.
And I
To draft the back I proceed in the way described in the specification of the above
cited Letters Patent and employ an under arm scale A which when the division
representing the under arm measurement is placed upon the waist dot, previously
obtained, with the long edge of the instrument upon the guide line a brings the back
bust scale B into position for marking the top of the first shoulder seam.
provide a perforation C for marking the spring of back and a hip scale D for marking
off the second hip dot so arranged in relation to the waist scale E that when the latter
scale is placed opposite the said waist dot in position to mark the waist size the
perforation C and the hip scale D are respectively in position for marking off the
spring of back and second hip dot. The bottom of the back may then be completed
in the manner described in the specification of the previously cited patent.
To draft the pattern for the back side quarter I use the side of the instrument
represented in figure 2 and draw the guide lines a and b as represented in that figure.

page_text: Then without moving the instrument I mark the position of the waist dot opposite the
division on the under arm scale F corresponding with the under arm measurement
and at the same time I find the bust dot at the top of the under arm. seam by means
of the perforation in the bust scale G corresponding to the bust measurement. The
arm hole curve may now be drawn with curve H on the other side of the instrument
by placing arrow 2 upon the top of the under arm seam and adjusting the instru-
ment so that arrow 3 lies over the guide line b. Instead of employing a double
row of perforations to mark said bust dot according to the French or American
style of bodice I preferably employ a single row of perforations as represented in
the drawings and each perforation marked with both French and American
proportions. I now place the instrument with the waist scales J opposite the
waist dot and mark off by means of such scale the length of waist line or width
of waist and with the scale in this position also mark the width of bips by means of
the side hip arrow 4 and hip scale K.. The first shoulder seam is drawn with curve L
from the point where the guide line b is cut by the arm hole curve, with
arrow 5 of the instrument upon such point, to that end of the waist line nearer
to line a.
For the front side quarter I provide perforations N¹ and N₁ at the top and bottom
of the hip curves N' and N³ to enable the position of the curve to be marked at
different widths according to size, and rows of perforations R, R1, R2, R3, and R*, are
also employed to mark off the length and width of the under arm portion. When
drafting the front side quarter it is not necessary to employ the guide lines as the
whole of the points are marked off with the instrument in one position. For with
the instrument placed upon the material to form the pattern the hip curves are
marked from the hip curves N and either N1, N2, N3, or N according to the width,
then the length of one side of the under arm is marked from the perforations forming
the under arm scale R and the other side of the under arm is marked off from one of
the rows of perforations R¹ R² R³ or R₁ according to the size required and to
correspond with the size used for the hip curves.
To mark the position and the width of the darts or breast pleats direct in drafting
the front I provide the dart chart represented on the smaller instrument in figures 3
and 4. Figure 3 shows the chart for marking French darts and figure 4 ordinary
darts of equal size. Referring first to figure 3 the chart is placed with the slit S over
the guide line a and with the figures representing the amount to be taken up by the
darts upon the waist line, dots are made upon such line through the perforation in the
same line marked with a similar number. In this way the row c of perforations gives
-the commencement of the first dart, row d the centre, and e the width of such
dart. The row j gives the position of the second dart, g the centre and h the
width of such dart.
Figure 4 is a similar arrangement but the end i instead of slit S is placed against
the guide line a and a slit h' is used instead of a last row of perforations to facilitate
placing the required division over the waist line.
The draping scale illustrated in figures 5 and 6 is preferably formed of a rectangular
piece of card board provided on one side (figure 5) with full sized scales for marking
off the points direct on to the material for the skirt where it is necessary to fold, turn
or crease the material to form various kinds of pleats and forms of draping such as
the various forms of box pleats, "organ pleats," "cascade" and also to relatively
arrange such pleats. An inch scale T runs the whole length of the instrument.
To mark off left and right flat pleats the flat pleat scale is provided and marks are
made opposite the divisions æ, A from the point where the pleats meet to the extremity of
the material to be pleated and marks are also made opposite a, A on the other side of
the point where the pleats meet in a similar manner. Then to form the pleats the
material is folded and pressed with the several marks A, together and the marks a, A
together. And in this manner any width of material may be marked for either left or
right flat pleats.
The organ pleat scale is also arranged for giving left and right organ pleats. The
central pleat.or pleats is or are marked the full width from the end of the instrument

page_text: to the division marked 5 c, the next pleats on each side are marked 4 c, the next 3 c
and so on then the marks are gathered together forming pleats decreasing in size
from the centre.
Cascade pleatings are made on a triangular piece of material by means of the
cascade scale. The letters H, h, are arranged alternately the same distance apart and
the material is marked therefrom with the same letters along one edge of the triangle
and then folded approximately at right angles to such edge" backwards and forwards
at each letter so as to bring the large H's and small 's respectively together.
The box pleating.scale provided on the other edge of the instrument is for marking
off one or more left and right pleats leaving a plain or "box pleat" in the centre.
One of the figures 2, 4, 6, or 8, is placed upon the material at the point where it is
desired to form the centre of the pleat according to the size of the pleat required,
and letters B, b, are marked on the material opposite the letters on the instrument
either once, twice or thrice as it is desired to form either a "single" "double" or
"treble" box pleat. Then the same figure at the other end of the instrument is placed
upon the centre of the pleat and the letters marked in a similar manner and then the
material is folded or pleated so as to bring the large B's on to the small b's.
More than one of the above mentioned pleating scales may be marked on the same
instrument so as to give pleats of the same class in different sizes.
On the other side of this instrument (figure 5) 1 provide a similar arrangement of
reduced scales and inch measure to enable any style of draping to be tried in miniature
and also to enable diagrams arranged on a similar scale to be worked from. By this
instrument persons with comparatively little skill and experience are enabled to draft
skirts accurately and artistically. But it is obvious that some little taste for the art
.of draping is required to efficiently drape a skirt either in miniature or full size by
use of the draping scale alene but by the aid of diagrams on the same scale as the
miniature to work from it is comparatively easy.
:
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said Inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, 1 declare what I claim is:
1. A scale, instrument or apparatus adapted to enable the patterns of ladies' and
children's bodices to be drafted separately and independently directly on to the lining,
substantially as herein shown and described and illustrated in the accompanying
drawings.
2. In an instrument or apparatus for drafting dress patterns, the general arrange-
ment of scales for drafting the back, the back side quarter and the front side
quarter, substantially as herein shown and described and illustrated in the accom-
panying drawings.
3. The arrangement illustrated in fires 3 and 4 for marking in a direct manner
the position and relative proportions the darts or breast pleats, substantially as
herein shown and described..
v.
4. A scale, instrument or apparatus adapted to enable various kinds of pleats used
in draping the skirts of ladies' garments to be marked directly on to the material
where it is necessary to fold or crease them preparatory to forming said pleats,
substantially as herein shown and described and illustrated.
5. The combination with a scale, instrument or apparatus for marking the various
pleats in the skirts of ladies' garments, of a similar arrangement in miniature, sub-
stantially as herein shown and described and for the purpose specified.
this 44 JS Monch 1900
DRACUP & NOWELL,
Bradford, Agents.