Improvements in and connected with Button-hole Machinery.
Year: 1893

page_text: Date of Application, 23rd Aug., 1893
Complete Specification Left, 23rd May, 1894-Accepted, 4th Aug.,
1894
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in and connected with Button-hole Machinery.
I VICTOR WITTE of 4 Newgate Street in the City of London, Sewing Machine
Manufacturer do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to improvements in button-hole making and sewing
machines whereby the button hole is first cut in the material by a mechanical
cutting device of improved construction, being held in a clamp adapted to give
a parallel opening to the cut hole, and the material is then carried and suitably
guided in proper positions to be operated on by the stitch devices. This sewing
machine is adapted to produce at will either a lock stitch, a locked chain stitch
with two threads, or an ordinary chain stitch with one thread by means of a
rotating hook a removable shuttle and accompanying devices, and after stitching
the edge of the button hole, produces a locking or finishing stitch, known as a
"bar lock." The needle bar is caused to have a to and fro movement parallel with
its axis, in addition to the usual vertical reciprocations, the loop forming mechanism
and spool being moved in accordance therewith.
According to this invention the cutter is mounted by means of a lug formed
thereon and screws passing through slots therein or equivalent means, onto the
upward end of a vertical cutter-bolt capable of being vertically slidden in bearings
on the base plate, and by my construction the cutter may be adjusted upon the bolt
and centralized with the stitch mechanism without difficulty; the throw of the
cutter bolt is limited by a length groove and a set pin, while it is retained in its
upward acting position by a spring actuated pin taking into a notch in the bolt.
A lever arm mounted on the base plate carries a striking block between which
latter and the cutter the button hole is formed in the material. The material is
mounted and held in a work clamp composed of a lower plate having superposed
thereon two plates upon which the work is laid, and two holding arms to secure and
press the material; I provide the two plates with guides and provide a hand cam
between the plates by which after the work has been placed in position and the
button hole cut, the said slit may be opened, and this in a parallel manner as
distinguished from it being opened radially that is more at one end than the other;
the two holding arms are jointed suitably to allow of motion to correspond with the
parallel motion of the aforesaid plates.
or arm of
"
neck
goose
Upon the end of the driving shaft passing through the "
the machine, is fitted a crank disc, the crank pin or roller taking into a slotted
block secured to the needle bar to vertically reciprocate the latter, and motion is
communicated by a vertical counter shaft and suitable gearing from the driving
shaft to a bevel wheel free to slide but not to rotate upon the looper shaft. On
the counter shaft are cams; the upper one gives end way motion to a horizontal bar
having a crosshead from which two rods extend to the upper and lower parts of a
laterally sliding needle head carried and guided by a suitable frame at the end of
the goose neck, the needle head receiving a motion in one direction by the cam and
being returned by a spring; the needle bar works through the needle head and
thus receives a parallel lateral motion as well as vertical reciprocations. The
lower cam on the counter-shaft acts against a roller carried by a yoke which
takes between two fixed collars on the looper shaft whereby the looper shaft
receives a lateral motion in one direction to correspond with the needle bar, the
said looper shaft being returned by springs.
Upon the looper shaft is mounted a feed motion cam which in conjunction with a
return spring reciprocates a slide carrying a spring pawl to take into and give step

page_text: by step motion to a ratchet disc located below the work plate. In the work plate
there is a suitably shaped slot through which projects a pin from the work carrying
clamp, the said pin also entering a cam groove in the ratchet disc; upon the top of
the work plate is a roller to guide the edge of the work clamp and a central pro-
jecting throat plate which takes through a slot in the work clamp; by these means
the pin of the work carrying clamp is carried by the ratchet cam through the slot
in the work plate and guided by the throat plate and the guide roller, is traversed
in a straight line for the needle to act on one side of the button hole, turned
for the rounded end of the button hole, and again traversed reversely in a straight
line for the other side to be sewn.
Upon the end of the looper shaft is mounted a rotary looper, having a hook, and
recessed centrally to receive a case containing the shuttle spool which in machines
according to my invention is capable of removal. The shuttle spool is held in the
recess of the looper by an adjustable ring, and as the looper and its shaft is laterally
reciprocated to accord with the needle movement, it follows that the adjustable
ring must correspond with this movement. For this purpose I mount the spindle
carrying the ring in a sliding block the latter being mounted in guides below
the base plate of the machine, the block being slidden by a yoke on the block
taking into a grooved collar on the looper shaft; the ring thus acquires exactly
the same lateral movement as the looper and the ring spindle being provided
with spring adjustment devices, the ring may be removed from the looper when
desired and the shuttle spool removed or replaced.
Upon the reciprocating slide block carrying the spool retention ring is mounted
in guides thereon, a slide bar adapted to move at right angles to the slide block
and operated by a cam on the looper shaft; this slide bar carries a device which
I term a spreader, the duty of which is, (when the machine is forming a chain
stitch or a locked-chain-stitch) to pass through and receive the loop cast off the
rotating hook and to retain and spread same while the needle passes therethrough
and then to cast off the said loop around the needle thread. The spreader is com-
posed of a movable finger normally held adjacent to a fixed finger by a spring and
bent open at their extremities to allow of the passage of the needle through same,
and the aforesaid cam on the looper shaft in conjunction with a return spring acting
on the slide bar gives this spreading and loop retaining device the proper motions
at the proper times to effect its before mentioned objects. When forming a lock
stitch the slide bar carrying the spreader is held out of action, away from the stitch
formning mechanism by a suitable catch and the shuttle spool case is retained within
the rotating hook by the ring; when a chain stitch is formed the spreader is left in
action and the shuttle spool case removed, and when forming a locked chain stitch,
that is a chain stitch with a locking thread therein, the shuttle spool case is retained
and the spreader is also left in action. I fulcrum on the head of the machine a
direct acting lever for drawing up the slack of the needle thread; the rear end
of this lever is operated in both directions by a grooved cylindrical cam on the
rotating needle shaft and the opposite end governs the thread, whether that be
of cotton, silk, linen, or other thread in a reliable and unvarying manner.
In order to finish the stitching securely at the narrow end of the button hole a
number of stitches of an increased length are effected, extending at right angles
to the slit, and at the end of the latter. To do this the feed motion of the
work clamp is stopped by a catch holding the reciprocating pawl carrying bar
out of action and the needle bar and rotary hook with the accompanying stitch
devices are caused to have a greater degree of lateral reciprocation to produce
a longer stitch, by two secondary cams on the vertical countershaft being caused to
act to give greater lateral motion to the needle head and looper shaft, the change
being effected by bringing into action two friction rollers (hitherto inactive) by a
hand lever moved by the operator or as I prefer by a spring cam turned by the
operator. Any number of these locking stitches may be produced the friction
rollers may then be brought out of action by moving the spring cam and the

page_text: machine again placed in its starting position to make and work another button
hole.
Dated thie 93rd dow of Aumnst 1802
BREWER & SON,
London and Leeds, Agents for Applicant.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in and connected with Button-hole Machinery.
I, VICTOR WITTE of 4 Newgate Street in the City of London, Sewing Machine
Manufacturer do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner
the same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement :-
This invention refers to improvements in machines for cutting and sewing pear
shaped button holes and forming the terminal fastening known as a "bar-lock
stitch (that is a number of stitches across the narrow end of the button hole);
the material in which such a button hole is to be formed, is placed in and held by
a work clamp while the hole is cut by a mechanical cutting device of improved
construction, the work-holding clamp being adapted by my improvements to give
a parallel opening or expansion to the cut hole, and the said clamp then carries
and guides the material as is usual in such machines while being operated upon by
the stitch devices. By my improvements as hereafter described I adapt this class
of pear shaped button hole sewing machine to produce either a lock, or a locked
chain stitch with two threads or an ordinary chain stitch with one thread, and
after stitching around the edges of the button hole, the machine may be caused to
produce a lock stitch for the formation of the "bar-lock" all as hereafter fully
explained with reference to the accompanying drawings.
"
Figure 1 is a vertical section and Figure 2 an inverted plan showing such a
machine constructed with my aforesaid improvements the striking lever and work-
holding clamp being removed. Figures 3 to 10 are detail views of portions of
same hereafter referred to, and Figures 11, 12 and 13 are respectively plan of clamp
mechanism with the work plate removed, top plan of the work plate and clamp
device, and elevation of clamp device on a larger scale than Figure 12.
According to this invention the bed plate of the machine is provided with a
vertical tube bearing as at A, Figs. 1 and 2, in which bearing is located a vertical
bolt B as shown in sectional elevation at Figure 3 carrying a cutter B', a top plan
of which is shown at Fig. 4; the cutter is mounted upon the bolt B in an improved
manner by means of lugs B' formed thereon and screws passing through segmental
slots therein into the upper end of the cutter bolt B, whereby the position of the
cutter may be adjusted upon the bolt and centralized with the stitch mechanism
without difficulty. The throw of the bolt B is limited by a set pin A¹ in the
vertical tube A taking into a lengthway groove B³ in the bolt B, it being retained
in its upward acting position by a spring actuated pin A2 in the tube A taking
into a notch in the bolt, and when not required for use, the pin A² is withdrawn
and the bolt is lowered by gravity. The ordinary lever arm C, not shown at
Figures 1 and 2, but separately illustrated in elevation at Fig. 5, is pivotted on the
upper face of the base plate as usual in this class of machine, and carries a striking
block C¹ between which latter and the cutter B₁ the button hole is formed in the
material.
Upon the end of the main driving shaft D Fig. 1 passing through the gooseneck
or arm of the machine is fitted a disc D', a crank pin or roller carried thereby
taking in a slotted cam block E secured to the needle bar E' to vertically
reciprocate the latter, the needle bar E' being mounted according to my invention,
in a frame F, Fig. 1, adapted to be given a to and fro motion in the head of
the machine, the said frame F having a vertical front plate F' against which

page_text: the block E bears; Fig. 6 is a sectional end elevation of the head of the machine
on an enlarged scale, the front plate F' being broken away to show the slotted cam
block E, the said plate F¹ coming against same and preventing any rotary
motion being communicated to the needle bar. D² is a spring arm bearing at
its upper end on the periphery of the cam shaped disc D', it being pivotted at D³
to a fixed part of the head, and formed at its lower end with a part D
calculated to stop the supply of needle thread at proper times, by clipping it
between the part D and the head casting of the machine. G is a thread
take-up pivotted to the fixed frame-work or head of machine and operated by a
cam groove in the rear part of the cam-disc D'.
In the rear part of the frame F, Fig. 1, is formed an aperture to admit the slide
bearing D¹ of the shaft D, and below this the said frame is fixed to the end of a
sliding bar H having attached at its rear end a bracket arm H', depending
downwardly through the standard of the machine, its lower end entering between
two fixed collars or in the circular groove of a collar J, Figs. 1 and 2, fixed on
the looper shaft J', which is adapted to slide end ways in its bearings as usual in
such machines; H2 are springs which tend to retain the bracket arm H', and
consequently the needle bar and looper shaft, in their back position as shown at Fig. 1.
Rotary motion is communicated from the main shaft D to the looper shaft J',
through the medium of a vertical counter shaft K and suitable bevil gearing as
usual in this class of machine, the bevil pinion J2 on the looper shaft being mounted
with a feather to allow for the lateral motions to the looper shaft, and according
to my improvements I mount upon the counter shaft K a collar having upper and
lower cam surfaces K' K² one or other of which is adapted to act upon a roller H³
loosely mounted upon a pin H' carried by lugs projecting from the bracket arm H³,
to give to the latter arm and consequently to the looper shaft J and needle
bar E', a forward traverse against the backward action of the springs H2 aforesaid.
This part of the mechanism is further illustrated by the enlarged detail views at
Figs. 7 and 8, Fig. 7 being a sectional end elevation looking from the right hand
side about the line X Fig. 1, and Fig. 8 being a sectional front elevation on the
same scale, and it will be seen that the roller H³ is formed with a flanged collar
and is capable of vertical motion on its pin H* between the brackets on the arm H¹.
At Fig. 7 this part of the arm H¹ is shown in section, it being formed with a
bearing to carry a pin H extending through a length-way slot in the standard of
the machine, indicated by dotted lines Figures 1 and 8, to allow for the to and fro
motion of the pin H, the latter having an external handle H whereby the pin
may be rotated when required; the pin H³ is formed with an eccentric stud taking
into the groove of the roller H3 so that by turning the pin H', by the handle H,
the roller is shifted from the cam K¹ to cam K2 or vice versa the cam K² giving
the proper side motions to the stitch devices when sewing the edges of the button
holes, and the cam K₁ an increased side motion for forming the finishing stitch or
bar-lock as hereafter described. Upon the looper shaft J', Figures 1 and 2 is
mounted a feed motion cam J3 which in conjunction with a return spring L
reciprocates a slide L¹ carrying a spring pawl L² to take into and give a step by
step motion to a feed-operating ratchet disc M as hereafter referred to, located
below the work plate.
When forming or producing the final or "bar-lock" stitch it is necessary that
the action of the feed devices should be arrested and also that the lateral recipro-
cations of the stitch mechanisms should be increased and these two changes in the
action of the feed, and stitch devices I effect by the one movement of the
handle H by which latter the cam bowl is shifted from the cam K² to the cam K',
whereby the arm H' and the parts in connection therewith receive an increased
lateral throw, and also a sliding bolt T, (Figs. 1 and 8) carried in bearings on the
arm His raised, by reason of its upper bent end being located in a circular
groove formed in an extension of the roller H³, whereby any vertical motion of
the said roller H3 is communicated to the bolt T. Beneath the base plate is a
catch bar V held by two screws, passing through slots, to allow of the catch bar

page_text: being slidden and the catch bar is provided with a spring V₁ to normally retain
it in the backward position shown at Figs. 2 and 8, the said catch bar being shown
detached and in perspective at Fig. 10. V2 is a catch on the upper face of the
catch bar V to co-act with a fixed projection V3 on the under side of the base
plate. V is a spring tending to force the catch bar V upwards towards the base
plate, V is a front projection and V³, Figs. 2 and 10, a side lug. When the
roller H3 and consequently the bolt T is raised, as at Fig. 8, to produce the
aforesaid increased lateral motion, the collar J comes against the lug V³, carrying
forwards the catch bar V until its catch V2 passes the fixed projection V³, and the
spring Vix causes the catch V2 to take against the said projection V³, and the
catch bolt V is retained in its forward position, whereby the front projection V₁ is
brought into the path of a part LIX, Fig. 2, of the feed action slide L' and holds
the latter out of action, and the feed devices are not operated. When the
roller H³ is lowered the feed devices are again brought into action, by reason of
the lower end of the bolt T depressing the rear of the catch bar V, and releasing
the catch V2 from the projection V3, while the spring V₁ removes the end V4 of the
catch bar from the path of the feed action slide L'.
Upon the end of the looper shaft J' is mounted a rotary looper J4 having a hook,
and recessed centrally to receive an ordinary circular bobbin case, containing the
spool of the under-thread; this bobbin case (not shown in the drawing) is capable
of removal, it being held in the recess of the looper by a ring P. Now as the
looper and its shaft J are laterally reciprocated to accord with the needle
movement, it follows that the said adjustable ring P must correspond with this
movement, and therefore the ring P is carried by an arm Px mounted on a
spindle P, the latter being located in bearings on a sliding block P² Fig. 2
mounted in guides A' below the base plate of the machine, and the block P is
slidden (in accordance with the shaft J¹) by a yoke P³ on the block, taking
between the flanges of a collar P₁ fixed on the looper shaft, the ring P thus
acquires exactly the same lateral movement as the looper shaft; the ring
spindle P is provided with a spring Pix which normally retains the ring P
adjacent to the looper and holds the bobbin case; to remove the latter the knob
of the shaft P1 is pulled by the operator, the spring Pix compressed, and the
shaft P partially rotated, the ring P is thus distanced longitudinally from the
looper and revolved in a vertical plane entirely away from before the disc of
the looper. P is a pin on the arm Px and this pin taking into an aperture in
the bearing of the shaft P¹ ensures accuracy of position of the ring P.
Upon a lower extension P³ (Fig. 1) of the reciprocating slide block P², is
mounted a radial bar R (clearly shown in the enlarged sectional end view at
Fig. 9) adapted to move at right angles to the slide block, and operated by a
cam R on the looper shaft J. This radial bar R carries at its upper extremity
an instrument termed by me a "spreader" composed of a jointed or articulated
finger S normally held adjacent to a fixed finger S₁ by a spring S2, and the
fingers are at a point in their length bent apart from one another, and again
closed together at their extremities to form an eye, through which the needle is
to pass, a plan view of the "spreader" fingers S S' is shown at Figure 9. The
aforesaid cam R' in conjunction with a return spring R2 Fig. 9 acting on the
radial bar gives the "spreader" proper motions at required times. When
1orming a chain stitch or a locked chain stitch the duty of the "spreader" is to
receive the loop cast off the rotating book, and to retain and spread same while
the needle passes through the bow or eye of the said instrument, and then to
cast off the said loop around the needle thread, the latter retrograde movement of
the "spreader" causing the hinged finger S to open when passing away from the
needle. When necessary the radial bar R carrying the spreader S S¹ is held
out of action (in the position shown at Fig. 9) by an eccentric R× having a
suitable operating handle.
The ratchet disc M is formed with an upper and an under cam groove as is
common in machines of this class wherein the work is carried by a work clamp

page_text: above the work plate, operated by the upper cam groove Mx in the disc M acting
in conjunction with slots N N Fig. 12 in the work plate, this description of feed
being illustrated by a plan with the work plate removed at Fig. 11, a plan of the
work plate and my improved carrier at Fig. 12, and a side elevation of the same
carrier on an enlarged scale at Fig. 13. "As usual there is a projecting pin N¹
in the base of the clamp, guided in the slot N and operated by the said groove M*
in the disc M.
The work clamp Figs. 12 and 13 in which the material is mounted and held is
-composed as usual in this class of machinery of a lower plate N³ having superposed
thereon the movable plates N N upon which the work is laid; these plates N* N*
are arranged in guides so that they may be moved horizontally away from each
other in opposite directions and are formed with gripping teeth. It is upon these
plates N' N when in their closed positions that the material in which the button
hole is to be formed is laid, there being a pair of upper gripping toothed
plates N N to hold the cloth in position. The plates N N are in connection
with operating arms N° N° centred for horizontal motion in the head N', while
the plates N5 N° are in connection with like operating arms N° N° centred for
horizontal rotation on a bar, which latter is centred at N° to allow of the usual
lift being given to separate the plates N' N°. N1° represents an ordinary eccentric
device to distance and close the gripping plates, N is a lever pivotted centrally
to the fixed head N7, its office being to separate the pairs of gripping plates one
from another horizontally, by means of eccentrically arranged slots in the lever N
acting on pins N12, connecting the arms N No. After the work has been placed
in position and the button hole cut, the said slit may be opened, and this in a
parallel manner as distinguished from it being opened radially as heretofore, that
is more at one end than the other.
Upon the top of the work plate of the machine is a roller carried by a spring
arm N2 to guide the edge of the work clamp in its travel, and a central projecting
throat plate takes through a slot therein; by these means the work clamp being
guided by the throat plate and the guide roller, and operated by the rotating cam
groove Mx is traversed in a straight line for the needle to act on one side of the
button hole, turned for the rounded end of the said button hole, and again traversed
reversely in a straight line for the other side to be sewn. As it is necessary to
vary the extent of feed motion as the work clamp is being turned end for end I
provide the usual stop lever M', Fig. 2, actuated by the lower cam groove of the
disc M, in order to limit the motion of the feed pawl slide L' at proper times.
O, Fig. 11, is a lever arm pivotted to the bed plate and slotted to receive a slide
carrying a pawl to engage the disc M, whereby the operator may rotate the said
disc M by hand into its proper starting position.
As has been before stated machines constructed as herein described are capable
of forming three varieties of stitch, and I would have it understood that by my
invention I am enabled to employ the combination of any two varieties of such
stitches in the sewing of a single button hole, that is 1st, a combination of locked-
chain stitch and lock stitch, 2nd, chain stitch and lock stitch, and 3rd, locked
chain stitch and chain stitch. Moreover in some
cases I may employ with
advantage the whole three varieties of stitches in sewing a single button hole, the
sides being sewn with a chain stitch, the eye of the button hole with a locked
chain stitch, and the final "bar-lock" with a lock stitch if required. Now it is
well known that a proper and well formed "purl" such as is suitable for tailoring
purposes, can only be best obtained by the use of a chain stitch and when such
has been employed the final bar, which should be a lock stitch, has bad to be made
by hand, whereas by my invention I can sew the button hole with either a chain
or locked chain and "bar," the button hole by a lock stitch without hand labor by
one and the same machine. When the third combination, that is, a chain stitch
and a locked-chain stitch employed, the chain stitch may by my invention be
advantageously used to sew the straight part of the button hole, and the locked
,chain stitch for the eye of the same button hole, whereby the eye is materially

page_text: strengthened while the sewing of the straight part of the button hole is not rendered.
too clumsy or unsightly.
To produce the first combination of stitches i.e. the locked-chain for the button.
hole edge, and the lock stitch for the "bar" the action is as follows:-The cloth
having been placed into the work clamp and the hole cut therein the clamp is.
moved into position and the machine set in motion, the feed disc M operated by
cam J and ratchet slide L' acting in conjunction with other parts to feed and
guide the work, the handle He Fig. 7 being in a position which will bring the
bowl H³ to bear against the cam K2, thus giving proper lateral to and fro recipro-
cations to the needle bar, looper, and stitch mechanism, the circular bobbin case to
carry the under thread having previously been placed in position in the looper .J4
and retained therein by the ring P, Fig. 2, and the arm R, Fig. 9, carrying the
articulated spreader having been left in action (operated by cam R'). The needle
first enters the material passing through the throat plate and through the eye of
the spreader Fig. 9A which is immediately withdrawn, its finger opening to allow
it to pass from the needle. The loop cast by the needle is taken by the hook
around the bobbin case, when the take up acts and draws the loop onto the neck of
the spreader, the latter having been advanced through the loop of thread while
held by the hook of the looper. At this time the cam K² acts and gives to the
needle bar, looper shaft and the stitch devices connected thereto, a side way motion
and consequently on its next descent the needle passes through the button hole,.
through the spreader eye, and through the loop of thread upon the neck thereof,.
the spreader immediately receding and passing away from the needle; the looper
hook then takes a fresh loop from the needle and while doing this the thread
stop D Fig. 6 clinches the thread, and consequently the looper hook in the course.
of its rotation tightens the previously caught loop. Thus the locking thread
contained in the bobbin case is deposited in the loops of the chain stitch and a
"purl" is formed thereby upon the edge of the button hole, as the work clamp
guides and submits the material to the action of the stitch devices as is common
in this class of machine. When the button hole is sewn the handle and pin H* H*,.
Fig. 7, is operated by the attendant and the bowl H³ shifted to the cam K' (that
is into the position shown at Fig. 7) whereby the stitch devices are given an
increased lateral throw, while the bolt T is raised and allows the catch bar V,.
Fig. 8, to be traversed laterally by the collar J, until the catch V interlocks with
the fixed projection V3 and thus stops the action of the feed as before explained.
The spreader. Figs. 9 and 94 is thrown out of action by the handle R*, and the
material remaining stationary is sewn by a lock stitch of increased length
transversely and at the end of the button hole to form the aforesaid "bar-lock."
It will be understood that if the button hole is to be sewn with a single thread
chain stitch, the bobbin case is removed and is again replaced, when a locked-
chain or lock stitch is to be produced; the spreader is only thrown out of action
when forming a lock stitch.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of this inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. In a button hole sewing machine having the work carried and guided by a
cam actuated clamp, the production of three varieties of stitches i.e. either a lock,.
or a locked chain stitch (with two threads), or an ordinary chain stitch (with one
thread), and whereby any combination of two varieties of such stitches may be
employed in sewing a single button hole, substantially in the manner and for the
purposes herein set forth.
2. In a button hole sewing machine having the work carried and guided by a
cam actuated clamp, the production of three varieties of stitches i.e. either a lock,
or a locked chain stitch (with two threads), or an ordinary chain stitch (with one
thread), and whereby any combination of two varieties of such stitches may be
employed in sewing a single button hole, the edge being sewn with one of such

page_text: varieties of stitch and a second variety of stitch being employed to form a "bar-
lock," substantially in the manner and for the purposes herein set forth.
3. In a button hole sewing machine having the work carried and guided by a
cam-actuated clamp, the production of three varieties of stitches, i.e. either a lock
stitch, locked chain or single chain stitch, the edge of a single button hole being
sewn with two varieties of stitch and a third variety of stitch being employed to
"bar-lock" therefor as set forth.
form a
4. In a button hole sewing machine having the work, carried and guided by a
cam actuated clamp, and adapted to produce at will either a lock, or a locked chain
stitch, (with two threads) or an ordinary chain stitch (with one thread) the
combination with a vertically reciprocating needle and needle bar, having a to and
fro parallel movement, and a rotating book having correspondingly to and fro
motions, of a cam operated loop retaining and spreading instrument, capable of
being thrown out of action when required, and devices for holding the bobbin case
within the looper disc, whereby the bobbin case may be released when required,
both the loop retaining instrument and the bobbin case holding devices sharing the
lateral to and fro motion of the needle and rotary looper all substantially in the
manner and for the purposes herein set forth.
5. In a button hole sewing machine having the work carried and guided by a
cam actuated clamp, and adapted to produce at will, either a lock, or a locked chain
stitch (with two threads) or a chain stitch (with one thread); the combination with
a vertically reciprocating needle and needle bar having a to and fro parallel motion,
a rotating hook having correspondingly to and fro motions, a loop retaining and
spreading instrument capable of being thrown out of action when required, and
devices for holding the bobbin case within the looper disc, whereby the bobbin
case may be released when required, both the loop retaining instrument and
the bobbin case holding devices sharing the lateral motions of the needle and
looper, of mechanism for simultaneously altering the extent of lateral motion of
the operative parts and arresting the action of the feed devices substantially as
set forth.
6. In machines for cutting and sewing button-holes the combination with a
vertically adjustable bolt B located in a tube A on the frame-work, of a cutter B¹
having lugs with segmental slots therein, and screws passing through the slots to
adjustably fix the cutter to the head of the bolt B, a set pin A' in the bearing
tube A and a groove B' in the bolt to limit the throw of the latter, and a spring
actuated pin A2 passing through the tube A to a slot in the bolt to automatically
lock the bolt when forced into its upper acting position (through the work plate)
to co-act with the lever carrying the usual striking block substantially as set
forth.
7. In button hole sewing machines having a vertically reciprocating needle bar,
with a to and fro parallel movement, acting in conjunction with a rotating hook and
under thread mechanism, with similar to and fro motions, the combination with a
main rotary driving shaft D and crank disc D' to vertically reciprocate the needle
bar E of a sliding frame F in the machine head to carry the needle bar, a
horizontally sliding bar H fixed to the frame F and having a downwardly extending
bracket arm H', a grooved collar J fixed on the looper shaft J', into which collar J
the arın H' takes, to communicate end way motion to the looper shaft, mechanism
for giving changeable lateral throw to the needle bar and looper shaft, composed
of two adjacent cams K2 K2 on a rotating vertical countershaft having gearing to
connect the main shaft with the looper shaft, a vertically movable bowl H³ on the
bracket arm H', a pin H³ carried by the bracket arm H' and extending, by a slot,
through the standard of the machine, and an eccentric stud on the pin H taking
into a groove on the bowl H³ whereby the bowl may be shifted vertically into
contact with either cam K' K², by rotating the said pin H³ and the produced lateral
motions thereby varied substantially as set forth.
8. In button hole sewing machines having a vertically reciprocating needle bar
with a to and fro parallel movement, and a rotating hook and under thread

page_text: mechanism having corresponding to and fro motions the combination with the
mechanism for effecting the said motions, and devices composed of the adjacent
cams K K and parts connected therewith, for varying the extent of the lateral
motions as claimed in Claim 7, of the devices whereby the feed action is stopped.
simultaneously with the change of lateral motion, composed of a bar T operated
by the change of position of the bowl H³, and a bar V acted upon by the said
bar T, and brought into the path of the feed bar L' by the increased lateral travel
of the collar J, catch arrangement V2 V3 and return spring V¹ substantially as
and for the purposes set forth.
9. In button hole sewing machines the work carrying and guiding clamp having
pairs of gripping plates N*N* and N' N adapted to be distanced from one another
in a parallel manner, whereby after the material has been gripped and the hole
cut in the material, the said hole or slit may be given a parallel opening or expansion
substantially as and for the purposes set forth with reference to Figs. 11 and 12 of
the accompanying drawings."
Dated this 23rd day of May 1801
BREWER & SON,
London and Leeds, Agents for Applicant..