New System of Coat Construction and Method for Preserving a Good Shape.
Year: 1894

page_text: Date of Application, 18th Jan., 1894
Complete Specification Left, 23rd Feb., 1894-Accepted, 4th Aug., 1894
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
New System of Coat Construction and Method for Preserving a
Good Shape.
JOHN HERMANN KROUT of the Firm of John Hermann Krout & Sons
Merchant Tailors 302 Fulham Road West Brompton S.W. in the County of
Middlesex do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
An invention for making and preserving a human bodily roundness to be
generally adopted for every description of coats & costumes for ladies &
gentlemen's attire.
This invention relates to every description of coats and over-garments, worn by
either sex.
It has for object, to give a garment, an exact roundness of shape, in proper
accordance, with a person's dimentions, without the aid of buttons, hooks, or
fastenings whatsoever. Our invention, enables a coat, when worn unbuttoned, to
hang closely to the body, & curl inwards, to the shape of the "human body," & not
to hang away, or outwards, as heretofore. This is a great advantage, to those that
wear their garments, habitually unbuttoned, as well as to those "evening dress,"
and other garments, that cannot be buttoned up. The "extreme comfort," &
effectiveness attained, render it far more satisfactory, & advantageous, than any, of
the so called, "coat stiffenings" at present in vogue. To attain this object, we use,
a double quantity of "French elastic duck canvas," cut, (as per drawing), to the
exact model of the body, as in drafting, to just above the "waist " line, A. A, &
uniting three large layers, of "horsehair cloth" as per 1, 2, 3, bevelled & smoothly
arranged, as illustrated. The lower part of this, i.e. between lines, A. A, & B. B,
must then be worked, to the exact roundness of the body, & the shoulder portion,
i.e., between lines B. B, & C. C, must be well hollowed, into the required shape, &
build of the shoulder; This roundness and hollowness, being produced with the
"hot iron" without the use of any soap whatsoever, as soap, is very detrimental, to
the substances used, & causes the shape, to perish. Padding & wadding, &
protections & coverings, for the horsehair-cloth, must, most essentially be used, in
the usual manner, as necessary, for the build of a party. From point E, to past
gorge point "D," a strip of tape, must be firmly laid on, & sewn securely, through
the whole, to make properly holdfast & ensure a good spring, & support round neck
& collar.
This invention, embraces the whole secret, for producing, a comfortable, &
effective, & "permanent stiffening" for coats & overgarments of every description,
& the methods laid down, can be most beneficially adopted, by the very best
trades.
The invention will be known as :—
Krout's New System of Coat Construction & Method for Preserving a Good
Shape.
Dated this 18th day of Inn1901

page_text: COME DELE STECIFICATION.
New System of Coat Construction and Method for Preserving a
Good Shape.
I, JOHN HERMANN KROUT of the Firm of John Hermann Krout & Sons
Merchant Tailors 302 Fulham Road S.W. in the County of Middlesex do hereby
declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:
This invention is a practical and scientific method of making and constructing
coats and body coverings of every description, worn by either sex, in a manner
calculated to retain a "permanent bodily roundness and stiffness of shape to the
exact proportions and formation of the "human figure.
These advantages are obtained, together with increased comfort and a better
sense of security than heretofore, particularly without the aid of buttons, hooks or
any fastenings whatsoever.
"
Whereas, any style of coat can be worn "unbuttoned" at the wearers discretion
and the "garment" will hang smoothly and curl "shapely" to the body and not
hang away or flap "outwardly as heretofore.
These advantages are obvious to those who wear their garments habitually
"unbuttoned" as well as to those "evening dress" and any other style of garments
that cannot be buttoned up.
The effectiveness in manipulation renders this invention specially superior, to any
of the so called "coat stiffenings, pads &c. at present in vogue, insomuch as the
"invention," lies in the "methods" of arranging, the various materials and
substances to give the desired effect.
"
It embraces the secret of producing a permanent and comfortable "stiffening'
for use in every description of coats and over-garments, formulated to "fashion &
otherwise, in every branch of "custom tailoring for "ladies and gentlemen."
A double layer of a stiff but pliable substance, we prefer to use "French elastic
duck" is cut out as illustrated in drawings ("left with Provisional Specification")
exactly in unison with the lines of a coat, to the height of just above hollow of
shoulder C, C, down to just above waist line A, A, the width to correspond with
breast size B, B and continued to near the junction of side-body, E.
On top of the "duck" is placed (according to a wearers dimentions) three or
more layers of "horsehair cloth" 1, 2, 3; one piece in the "hollow" of shoulder, 1,
the others over-lapping and placed in even balance with the "breast" 2, 3.
These must be securely "sewn" together to be kept in proper position and the
"iron" applied as follows:-
The shoulder portion must be pressed "inwards" to the "hollowness" or build
of the shoulder & the breast portion must be pressed "outwards" to the
"roundness" and propensity of the "human figure."
66
It is important that no soaps or greasy substances should be used in connection
with the stiffening" as soaps &c. under the influence of dampness or perspiration,
causes the stiffness to become limp and perishes all the natural elasticity of the
substances used.
"
In order to support the garment "squarely" as well as securing the "stiffening"
in its proper place, a strip of tape should be securely "sewn "from point B, round
collar to gorge point D, this giving all the necessary spring to the collar and
causes a "shug" fit round neck.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is
A new "method of constructing and manipulating the "stiffenings" of coats &c.

page_text: to induce "permanent stiffness and good shape" in conformity with the shape of a
"human figure" consistent with comfort and pliability, in contrast to the hitherto
employed "unsuitable methods and substances."
Dated this 22nd day of February 1894.