IMPROVEMENTS IN BUTTON-HOLE FEEDING MECHANISMS FOR SEWING MACHINES
Year: 1883

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Arthur William Lovell Reddie of the Office for Patents
66 Chancery Lane in the County of Middlesex Patent Agent for an Invention
of "IMPROVEMENTS IN BUTTON-HOLE FEEDING MECHANISMS FOR SEWING
MACHINES." communicated to him from abroad by The National Machine
Company (Incorporated) of Troy in the State of New York United States of
America
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Arthur William Lovell
Reddie at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 13th March
1883.
ARTHUR WILLIAM LOVELL REDDIE of the Office for Patents 66 Chancery Lane
in the County of Middlesex, Patent Agent. "IMPROVEMENTS IN BUTTON-HOLE
FEEDING MECHANISMS FOR SEWING MACHINES." [Communicated to him from
abroad by The National Machine Company (Incorporated) of Troy in the State of
New York United States of America]
This invention relates to improvements in mechanisms for feeding to sewing
machines fabrics having button holes with one end rounded or eyelet-shaped.
The general object of this invention is to produce a very effective durable and
easily adjustable mechanism which when properly combined with a sewing machine
adapted to make the common lock-stitch, chain stitch or other suitable stitch from
a continuous thread or continuous threads, shall be capable of holding and auto-
matically feeding to the stitch-forming devices of the sewing machine, fabrics
having button holes of various sizes, with one end rounded or eyelet-shaped, so as
to thereby cause the rapid and thorough binding of the edges of such button-holes
by over-edge stitches, which radiate along the semi-circular end, and are substan-
tially parallel along the side edges of the button-holes, and which by adjustments
in said mechanism can be made of different uniform lengths and at various uniform
distances apart, and to firmly bar the narrow ends of the button holes.
One special object of this invention is to provide efficient means by the use of
which a sewing machine having an eye-pointed needle constantly supported and
actuated by one end part, and thereby moving to-and-fro end wise in one line only,
with co-acting devices for making common lock stitches, chain stitches. or other

page_text: suitable stitches from a continuous thread or continuous threads, can automatically
bind the edges of an eyelet-end button hole by a series of over-edge stitches that
radiate along the semi-circular end edge of the eyelet-shaped end, and are essen-
tially parallel along the other edges of the button-hole. For that purpose according
to this invention there is combined with such a sewing machine a button hole work
holder of any suitable oblong form and construction and mechanism capable of
imparting from the sewing machine to the work-holder momentary intermittent
to-and-fro movements to form over-edge stitches; and also first a progressive
lengthwise movement with a gradual transverse movement in the last part of said
lengthwise movement to place the over-edge-stitches substantially parallel to each
other along one side of the button hole, next a progressive semi-circular movement
to place the over edge stitches radially along the semi-circular end of the button-
hole, and next a progressive lengthwise movement with a gradual transverse
movement in the first part of said last lengthwise movement, to place the over-edge
stitches essentially parallel to each other along the other side of the button hole.
By this combination of the button-hole work holder and feeding mechanism with
a sewing machine which makes common lock-stitches or other suitable stitches from
a continuous thread or continuous threads, eyelet end button-holes are bound all
around by a series of over edge stitches in which two stretches of binding thread
extend on each side of the fabric from-the edge of the button hole to each perfora-
tion made in the fabric by the needle: The combination which produces this
result is substantially different from and far superior in utility to the combination
of a button hole work holder and feeding mechanism with a sewing machine using
only a short thread and a needle which is wholly passed through the fabric at each
perforation, as in hand sewing, whereby an eyelet-end button hole can be bound by
a series of over-edge stitches in which only one stretch of binding thread extends
on each side of the fabric from each perforation to the edge of the button hole.
In some button hole stitching mechanisms devised before this invention, a button
hole work holder in the operation of stitching an eyelet-end button hole has
received from automatic means, first a step-by step lengthwise movement and a
short lateral movement in one direction in the last part of said lengthwise move-
ment; next a step-by-step semi circular movement, and next a step by step length-
wise movement and a short reverse lateral movement in the first part of said
last lengthwise movement; and sometimes intermittent momentary to-and-fro
movements transverse to the direction of said lengthwise movements, and throughout
said lengthwise and semi circular movements. In the latter case however a short
thread was used and the needle was passed entirely through the fabric as in hand-
sewing, and the work holder received a momentary transverse movement in one
direction at each ascent of the needle, and a momentary transverse movement in the
opposite direction at each descent of the needle to form over edge stitches in which
only one stretch of the thread extended on each side of the fabric from the edge of
the button hole to each perforation made by the needle.
4
Prior to the present invention eyelet-end button holes had also been bound by a
series of over-edge stitches by means of automatic mechanism consisting of a
sewing machine having an eye pointed needle moving to-and fro laterally as well
as endwise; to form over edge stitches from a continuous thread or continuous
threads, in combination with a button hole work holder and mechanism for
imparting to the work holder first a progressive lengthwise movement with a short
gradual lateral movement in the last part of said lengthwise movement; next a
semi-circular movement, and next a progressive lengthwise movement with a short
gradual reverse lateral movement in the first part of said last lengthwise move-
ment. Such prior mechanisms required, as a necessary element a sewing machine
having an eye-pointed needle moving to and fro laterally. Consequently, in suc
prior mechanisms it is impossible to use any of the vast numbers of common lock
stitch and chain stitch sewing machines that are in use throughout the civilized
world, and in which the needle does not move to-and-fro laterally..
By the present invention all necessity for having the needle of the sewing

page_text: machine move to-and-fro laterally is avoided in mechanisms for binding eyelet-end
button holes by a series of over edge lock stitches or chain stitches; and the very
important object is accomplished of furnishing effective and durable means whereby
the common lock stitch and chain-stitch sewing machines, that do not have the
needle move to and fro laterally, can be used in binding eyelet end button holes
by a series of over edge stitches that radiate along the semi-circular end edge, and
are essentially parallel along the other edges of the button hole. That object is
attained by providing for or combining with such a sewing machine a suitable
button hole work-holder and mechanism for imparting to the work holder a
progressive lengthwise movement, next a progressive semi-circular movement, next
a progressive lengthwise movement, short gradual lateral movements in one direction
in the last part of said first lengthwise movement, and in the opposite direction
in the first part of said last lengthwise movement and also momentary to-and-fro
movements transverse to the direction of said lengthwise movements, and
throughout said lengthwise and semi-circular movements.
A button-hole feeding mechanism composed of a suitable work holder, a bar or
lever adapted to be moved to and fro by a sewing machine, and mechanism for
imparting the aforesaid progressive lengthwise semi-circular, short lateral and
momentary to-and-fro transverse movements to the work holder, all from the said
bar or lever, only, is believed to be new and is of much practical importance
because it can be very easily combined for use with any suitable common lock-
stitch or chain stitch sewing machine by placing and securing such feeding
mechanism in fit relation to the sewing machine, and properly connecting any
suitable moving part of the latter with the said bar or lever only of the feeding
mechanism.
In carrying out this new combination any suitable sewing machine which will
produce the common lock-stitch or chain stitch from a continuous thread or
continuous threads can be employed; and various combinations of mechanical.
devices can be used for imparting the several aforesaid monentary to-and-fro,
lengthwise, semi circular and short gradual transverse movements to the button
hole work holder from the needle bar or lever, or from a rotary cam or shaft or
from any other suitable part of whatever sewing machine shall be used.
The sewing machine to which it is preferred to adapt the novel arrangement
of mechanism now to be described is that known as a "No 7 Wheeler, and
Wilson."
The work holder in this feeding mechanism may be like some clamping devices'
or feed-feet that have been heretofore used in button hole sewing mechanisins, and
can have any suitable construction that will secure the proper accurate holding
of the button hole fabric for the action of the stitching devices, but the work
holder preferably employed consists of a feed foot conformed to an eyelet end
button hole and having teeth along its lower edge and jointed to a spring arm that
is hinged to a work carrier which has a spring for elevating the said arm and is
furnished with a cam lever by which the feed foot can be depressed into an
opening in the said work carrier and there held by spring pressure on the button-
hole-work that is supported by a smooth surface on which the carrier moves, so
that the button-hole work will be securely held and moved upon said smooth
surface by the feed foot.
As a preferred means for imparting from a sewing machine to the button-hole
work holder the several movements required to make the mechanisin automatically
bind an eyelet-end button hole by a series of over edge stitches that radiate along
the seini circular end edge, and are essentially parallel, along the other edges of the
button hole, there is combined with the work holder a bar or lever that is adapted
to be moved to-and-fro by the sewing machine, and devices for imparting from the
arm or lever to the work-holder a step by step lengthwise movement,-next a step
by step semi-circular movement, and next a step by step lengthwise movement';
a gradual short transverse movement in one direction in the last part of sail first
lengthwise movement, and in the opposite direction in the first part of said last
5)

page_text: lengthwise movement;-and momentary to-and-fro movements transverse to the
direction of said lengthwise movements; and throughout said lengthwise semi-
circular and short transverse movements. The aforesaid bar or lever may be moved
to-and-fro in harmony with the movements of the needle of the sewing machine by
means of a switch cam fast on the rotary shaft of the sewing machine and a
follower pivotted to the bar or lever and engaging with the cam, the whole being
so combined that just after one withdrawal of the sewing machine needle from the
work in the work holder, the lever or bar will be moved in' one direction and will
be moved in the opposite direction just after the next withdrawal of the needle,
and so on repeatedly.
As a preferred method of imparting to the work-holder the several aforesaid
movements, the work holder is mounted on a suitable movable support, and there
is combined with the work holder and its said support, mechanism for imparting
to the work holder upon and separately from said support the said lengthwise and
semi-circular movements, and for imparting to said support and thereby to the
work holder the short gradual transverse movements in reverse directions just
before and after the said semi-circular movement.
With the work holder and its snid support is also combined means for auto-
matically imparting to the said support and thereby to the work-holder intermittent
momentary to-and-fro movements transverse to the direction of said lengthwise
movements of the work holder, and during its said lengthwise, semi-circular, and
short gradual transverse movements.
The principal parts of this button hole feeding mechanism will now be
described: A bed plate is firmly secured to the base of the sewing machine
and upon this bed plate is mounted a second plate supporting the work holder
and its carrier and movable to-and-fro in guides on the bed plate.
The work holder and its carrier partake of all the movements of this movable
plate or slide and are moreover capable of being moved to and fro lengthwise and
partially rotated upon and separately from the said slide.
For accurately directing and imparting the aforesaid lengthwise and semi-
circular movements to the work-holder upon and separately from the slide, the
following construction is commonly preferred, to wit. The slide is formed with
two straight opposite guides and also with a semi-circular guide extending between
the two straight guides. Mounted on or in the slide is a disc capable of being
turned to-and-fro in a semi-circle along the semi-circular guide. This disc or
turntable has a short guide corresponding in cross section with and practically
forming a continuation of one or other of these straight guides when the turntable
is at one or the other end of its semi-circular movement.
The turntable and work-holder carrier are respectively furnished with straight
guides which interlock and are parallel to the length wise direction of the work
holder and are also parallel to the straight guides of the slide when the turntable
is at either end of its semi-circular movement. The carrier is also formed or
furnished with a guide stud which fits and is movable along the straight guides
in the slide and the short guide in the turntable and the carrier has teeth along its
sides and along a semi circular portion at one end, between the two sides. These
teeth engage with a driving gear-wheel carried by the slide and mounted to rotate
thereon about a stud pin or axle.
The parts are so arranged that by causing the gear wheel to rotate the carrier
will be first moved in a straight course in the length wise direction of the work
holder until its guide stud engages with the short guide on the turntable, and is
disengaged from the straight guide on the slide. The gear will then engage with
the teeth on the semi-circular part of the carrier and will turn it upon the turn-
table through a semi-circle and until it is opposite to the second straight guide on
the slide. Then the gear wheel will engage with the teeth on the other straight
side of the carrier and the carrier will be run off the turntable and moved along
the second straight guide. For limiting the movement of the turntable on the
slide these parts are formed or furnished with suitable stops.

page_text: For imparting to the slide and thereby to the work holder mounted thereon, the
aforesaid gradual short movements transverse to the lengthwise movements of the
work holder and in opposite directions just before and after its aforesaid semi-
circular movement to cause the proper placing of the over-edge stitches along the
inner parts of the eyelet end of a button hole, the gear wheel is formed or furnished
with a cam having two concentric connected ares of different radii, and an elbow
lever is pivotted to the slide and has on one arm a follower engaging with the cam,
and its other arm engaging with a stop or abutment on a second slide which does
not partake of the short gradual transverse movements to be imparted to the
main slide and thereby to the work holder. These parts are so combined that
when by the turning of the gear wheel the work holder carrier approaches the
end of its first straight movement, the follower on the elbow lever gradually
passing along the cam path will thereby cause the elbow lever with the stop on
the second slide as a fulcrum to give to the main slide and thereby to the carrier
and work holder a short gradual movement in one direction or the other.
To adapt the mechanism for feeding button-boles having eyelet shaped ends of
different sizes, means are provided for conveniently altering the lengths, of the
aforesaid short gradual movements imparted to the main slide and work holder
carrier, just before and after the semi-circular movement of the latter; and
preferably by making the abutment stud for the elbow lever above named
adjustable along the arm of the lever to different distances from its pivot.
that purpose this stud is closely surrounded by a collar fitting in the slotted arni
of the elbow lever and has an internal screw thread engaging with a clamp screw
having a head fitting in and adjustable along a recessed groove in the smaller slido
above named.
For
Means are provided for readily clamping the cam to the gear wheel in somewhat
different positions for the purposes of adjustment.
For that
Various devices can be used for imparting to the main slide, and consequently to
the work holder thereon momentary to-and-fro movements transverse to the direction
of the aforesaid lengthwise movements of the work-holder, and during its aforesaid
lengthwise, semi-circular and short gradual transverse movements.
purpose the main driving bar or lever is pivotted to the base plate, and is connected
by a link to a second lever which is also pivotted to the base plate, and embraces a
part on the smaller slide, which slide works between guides on the main slide and
against the base plate, so that to-and-fro movements shall be imparted to the
smaller slide by the to-and-fro movements of the said main and second levers and
the to-and-fro movements of the smaller slide are imparted to the main slide
through the elbow lever and cam which connect the two, slides as above specified.
To adapt the mechanism to produce over-edge stitches of different lengths or of
different depths from the edge of the button hole, means are provided for altering
the lengths of the momentary to-and-fro movements imparted to the work holder
with and by the main slide carrying the work holder.
Means are provided for so adjusting the smaller slide and consequently the main
slide, the carrier, and the work holder in respect to the second driving lever, that
when the mechanism is combined with a sewing machine the work holder shall be
in proper position in respect to the working point of the sewing machine needle,
to insure the placing of the over edge stitches in the right positions in relation to
the edge of whatever eyelet-end button hole shall be properly held by the work
holder.
To avoid having an open space between the throat plate through which the
needle works, and the plate which surrounds the throat plate, and to avoid the
sliding of the button-hole-work upon said plates in its to-and-fro movements by
and with the work holder in directions transverse to the direction of the lengthwise
movements of the work holder, and thus avoid the liability of displacing the
button hole work in the work holder by its to-and-fro transverse movements, the
throat piece is made with an oblong needle hole, and is caused to partake of all the
movements of the work holder in directions transverse to its lengthwise movements;

page_text: by being secured to the main slide on which the work holder is mounted, and by
being made of circular form and fitting in a circular opening in the turntable
carried by the said slide.
To provide excellent means for imparting to the work holder carrier a faster
movement while turning in a semi circle than when moving in straight courses to
properly space the over edge stitches along the rounded end and sides of the button
hole, there is combined with the work holder carrier and its driving gear a pinion
and means for imparting directly to said pinion, and thereby to the said gear a
slow step-by-step rotary movement, and means for imparting directly to the gear
independently of the pinion, faster step-by-step rotary motion only while the gear
engages with the teeth on the semi-circular part of the work holder carrier.
For imparting said slow motion to the pinion and faster movement to the gear
wheel various well known pawl and ratchet or friction devices can be used. For
thus turning the pinion a fine toothed ratchet wheel of much greater diameter than
.the pinion is firmly secured to the latter and is furnished with a driving pawl having
an engaging spring or with two or more driving pawls adapted to alternately
engage with the teeth of the ratchet wheel.
For imparting the occasional faster movement to the gear wheel the latter has
fast thereon a coarse toothed ratchet furnished with a driving pawl, having an
engaging spring and so arranged that the pawl shall engage with and actuate the
ratchet only while the gear engages with the teeth on the semi-circular part of
the carrier.
For imparting the proper to-and-fro movements to the pawls above named from
the main driving lever various devices can be used; but preferably for these
purposes one of the pawls is pivotted on and carried by a slide bar which is fitted
to slide in a guide on the main slide, and has a joint connection with the main
lever, and the other pawl is mounted on and carried by one arm of an elbow lever
which is pivotted concentrically with its ratchet wheel and has its other arm
connected by a rod to. the second driving lever which is linked to the main driving
lever.
To render the mechanism capable of placing the over edge stitches at different
uniform distances apart along the side edges of the button hole, a means is provided
for conveniently altering the length of the steps imparted to the work-holder in its
lengthwise movements.
To adapt the mechanism for placing the over edge stitches at various uniform
distances apart along the semi circular end of the button hole, a device is provided
for altering the length of the steps imparted from the main lever to the work
holder in its semi circular movement. For that purpose the sliding bar which
carries one of the pawls is connected to the main lever by a stud, adjustable along
that lever.
To cause the proper engagement of the last named driving pawl with the teeth
of its ratchet, whatever shall be the length of the to-and-fro movements imparted
to that pawl by the slide bar, a guide shield is adjustably secured to the main
slide by headed screws reaching through slots in the shield so that the shield can be
set to keep the pawl out of the ratchet teeth when the pawl is retracted, and to
guide the pawl so that it shall at each forward movement properly take the right
number of ratchet teeth, whatever shall be the adjustments of the other parts of
the mechanism.
"
. To make the pawl begin and end its action on the ratchet at the right points to
properly turn the gear wheel in relation to the beginning and ending of its engage-
ment with the teeth on the semi-circular part of the work holder, two shields are
adjustably secured to the stock of the ratchet, whereby said shields can be adjusted
along the ratchet so as to cause the pawl to commence and end its action on the
ratchet at various different points as may be required by other adjustments of the
mechanism.
To provide means whereby the work holder carrier can be easily moved forward
by hand in its straight and semi-circular courses; and also backward when the

page_text: pawls are thrown out of their positions for engaging with their ratchets the pinion
or its ratchet wheel is furnished with a winged handle.
For conveniently throwing the pawls out of and into their positions for engaging
with the ratchets a pawl-shifter is mounted so that it can be easily turned to and
fro about the axis or hub of one of the ratchet wheels and has projections so shaped
and arranged in respect of the pawls that the pawls may be. made to engage with
the ratchets or be held away from the ratchets so that a person can then by the
winged hand piece easily rotate the pinion backward, and thereby cause the back-
ward movement of the work holder carrier in readiness for another button hole.
A spring dog secured to the main slide bears against the pawl shifter, and will
engage with either of two notches in the shifter and thereby insure the holding of
the shifter in either of its required positions, but so that the shifter can be easily
turned by hand from either one of those positions to the other. Means are provided
for preventing the ratchet wheel from being turned by the backward movement of
its pawl, and its carrying lever, or by the to-and-fro turning of the pawl shifter or
by the momentum of the parts.
4
To limit the backward movement of the work holder carrier to the proper place
for beginning the stitching of a button hole, a stop piece is provided which can be
fastened by a screw at different distances from the needle hole.in the throat piece
to suit the various lengths of button holes to be stitched.
To inake the mechanism capable of properly feeding an eyelet end button hole
to bar its narrow end, there is provided a device by which the main slide and
thereby. the work holder carrier can be moved to and.fro in a direction transverse
to the lengthwise movements of the work holder carrier, and in addition to its
aforesaid other movements. By means of this device which consists of an excentric
or cam adapted to be set against stops in various positions the two slides and with.
them the work carrier. may be bodily shifted into such a position as to change the
placing of the over edge stitches from one side of a button hole to across its slit
and vice versa.
Means are also provided for regulating different lengths of over edge and barring
stitches.
A compressed friction-producing spring or equivalent device, is also provided for
retaining the barring cam in whatever position it shall be placed, or a retracting
spring may be used to return the cam arm against one or other of the stops.
To cause over edge lock stitches around a button hole to appear on the upper
surface of the fabric in single zig zag lines, the tension on the lower thread in the
sewing machine is made very great in respect of the tension of the needle thread.
To cause the over edge lock stitches around the button hole to have the
appearance of rows of double parallel stitches on the upper surface of the fabric,
the tension of of the needle thread is made so great in respect to the tension of
the under thread in the sewing machine that the needle thread draws loops of the
under thread up through and over the fabric to the inner edge of the button hole
along which edge the needle thread is left extending in a line through the loops of
the under thread.
first turned so as
To bar the narrow end of the button hole the pawl shifter
to stop the lengthwise movement of the work holder and at the same instant the
arm of the barring cam is turned by hand from against one of its stops to bear
against the other of the stops to change the placing of the over edge stitches from
the side to across the narrow end of the button hole, as already mentioned and
then by a few of the stitches there placed together the end of the button hole is
barred, whereupon the motion of the sewing machine is stopped. Similarly by
varying the position of the pawl shifter and barring cam the narrow end of, a
button hole may be barred in three or four different ways.
The projecting arm of the barring cam may be actuated by hand in unison
with the main lever bar, or it may be moved alternately in a series of steps towards
one stop or the other to produce different forms of barring stitches.
In case the mechanism is to be used to feed to a sewing machine a button-hole

page_text: having one open rounded end, and one side edge continued in a straight line to the
semi-circular end of the button hole, the above specified short step-by-step
transverse movement of the work-holder in one direction by and with its carrier
and the main slide just before, or after, the semi circular movement of the work
holder, is to be omitted, as can be done by altering the form of the cam path by
which such short transverse movements are effected.
.
By suitably forming, this cam path, the mechanism can be used to feed to a
sewing machine a button hole having both side edges continued in straight lines to
a semi circle at one end.
It should be remarked that the ways or guides for the workholder carrier though
generally perpendicular to the direction of movement of the main slide, can be
somewhat inclined thereto and the other parts conformed to such variation if
desired to make the over-edge stitches appear more nearly perpendicular to the
edges of the button hole. For a similar purpose, instead of imparting a step
movement to the gear at each movement of the main lever in one direction only,
or at eacli second ascent of the needle of the sewing machine as above set forth, a
step movement can be imparted to the gear from the main lever or from some
other moving part of the sewing machine, by well known pawl and ratchet feeding
devices, at each movement of the main lever in either direction, or at every ascent
of the sewing machine needle.
When the mechanism is being used, the parts which do not hold the button hole
fabric, and are not moved directly by hand, are intended to be generally covered
by a casing shaped and arranged to prevent contact of the fabric with the gearing
and other moving parts of the mechanism.
The mechanism above described is adapted to feed fabrics having eyelet-end
button holes, to a suitable sewing machine which makes to-and-fro or over-edge
stitches, by leaving out the devices for imparting from the main lever intermittent
momentary to-and-fro movements to the smaller slide.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said Arthur William Lovell Reddie in: the Great Seal Patent Office on
the 7th September 1883.
ARTHUR WILLIAM LOVELL REDDIE of the Office of Patents 66 Chancery Lane
in the County of Middlesex, Patent Agent. " IMPROVEMENTS IN BUTTON HOLE
FEEDING MECHANISMS FOR SEWING MACHINES" a communication to me from
abroad by The National Machine Company (Incorporated) of Troy in the State
of New York, United States of America'
This Invention relates to improvements in mechanisms for feeding to sewing
machines fabrics having button holes with one end rounded or eyelet-shaped
The general object of this invention is to produce a very effective, durable and
easily adjustable mechanism, which, when properly combined with a sewing
machine adapted to make the common lock-stitch, chain-stitch, or other suitable
stitch, from a continuous thread or continuous threads, shall be capable of holding
and automatically feeding to the stitch-forming devices of the sewing machine
fabrics having button holes of various sizes with one end rounded or eyelet-shaped ;
so as to thereby cause the rapid and thorough binding of the edges of such button
holes by over edge stitches which radiate along the semi-circular end, and are
substantially parallel along the side edges of the button holes, aud which by
adjustments in said mechanism can be made of different uniform lengths and at
various uniform distances apart, and to firmly bar the narrow ends of the button
holes.
In the accompanying drawings. Fig: 1 is a perspective view of one of these
improved button hole feeding mechanisms combined with a sewing machine
adapted to produce the well known lock stitch, -the work holder being
represented in position to present the middle part of the semi-circular end of a
button hole to the stitch making devices.
Figures 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 9. 9. indicate some of the various arrangements of
stitches that can be made along the sides and around and across the ends of button
holes by means of the mechanism shown in Fig. 1, and modifications thereof
hereinafter described.
Fig: 10 is a plan of the same button-hole feeding mechanism represented in
Fig 1 but detached from the sewing machine, and shewing the work-holder in one
of its positions at or near the beginning of the feeding and stitching of a button
hole along one side.
Fig: 11 is a plan of the same feeding mechanism with the work-holder in one
of the positions it occupies after the completion of the stitching of the edges of a
button hole, and while the narrow end of the button hole is being barred as
indicated in Figs. 2. 3. or 4.
Fig: 12 is a plan of a portion of the same feeding mechanism, some of the
parts being removed, some others represented in section, and those shown being in
the same positions as in Figure 1
Fig: 13 is a side elevation of the same feeding mechanism, and Fig: 14 is a
vertical longitudinal section thereof at about the line zz in Fig 11, and elevation
of some parts viewed in the direction pointed by the arrow z¹ in the latter figure.
Figures 15. 16. 17. 18 and 19 are partial transverse sections and elevations of.
the same mechanism all viewed in the direction indicated by the arrow ý in
Figs 10. 13 and 14, wherein the places of the sections are indicated by broken
lines, to wit: for Figure 15 by the line y y', for Fig: 16 by the line xx for
Fig 17 by the line x x¹, for Figure 18 by the line w. w and for Fig: 19 by the
line ww
.

page_text: Figures. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24 and 25 are isometrical views, showing some parts
of the same mechanism on a smaller scale.
Similar parts are marked by like letters in the different figures, and the directions
in which some of the parts move or are movable in use, are indicated by adjacent
arrows.
.
One special object of this invention is to provide efficient, means by which a
sewing machine having an eye-pointed needle constantly supported and actuated
by one end part, and thereby moving to-and-fro endwise in one line only, with
co-acting devices for making common lock stitches, chain stitches or other
suitable stitches from a continuous thread or continuous threads, can automatically
bind the edges of an eyelet-end button hole by a series of over edge stitches, that.
radiate along the semicircular end.edge of the eyelet-shaped end and are essentially
parallel along the other edges of the button hole substantially as represented in.
Figures 2. 3. 4. 6 or 8. For that purpose, according to this invention, there is
combined with such a sewing machine a button hole work holder of any suitable
obloug form and construction, and mechanism capable of imparting from the
sewing machine to the work holder momentary intermittent to-and-fro movements
to form over edge stitches, and, also first a progressive lengthwise movement with
a gradual transverse movement in the last part of said lengthwise movement to
place the over edge stitches substantially parallel to each other along one side of
the button hole as from v to v, next a progressive semi-circular movement to place
the over-edge stitches radially along the semi-circular end of the button hole as
from v¹to u; and next a progressive lengthwise movement with a gradual
transverse movement in the first part of said last lengthwise movement, to place
the over-edge stitches essentially parallel to each other along the other side of the
button hole as from u to u. By this combination of the button-hole work-holder
and feeding mechanism with a sewing machine which makes common lock-stitches
or other suitable stitches from a continuous thread or continuous threads, eyelet-end
button holes are bound all around by a series of over-edge stitches in which two.
stretches of binding thread extend on each side of the fabric from the edge
of the button hole to each perforation made in the fabric by the needle.
The combination which produces this result is substantially different from,
and far superior in utility to, the combination of a button hole work holder.
and feeding mechanism with a sewing machine using only a short thread and a
needle which is wholly passed through the fabric at each perforation, as in hand
sewing, whereby an eyelet-end button hole can be bound by a series of over-edge
stitches in which only one stretch of binding thread extends on each side of the
fabric from cach perforation to the edge of the button hole. In carrying out this
new combination any suitable sewing machine which will produce the common
lock stitch or chain-stitch from a continuous thread or continuous threads can be
employed, and various combinations of mechanical devices can be used for
imparting the several aforesaid momentary to-and-fro lengthwise, semi-circular,
and short gradual transverse movements to the button-hole work-holder from the
needle-bar or lever, or from a rotary cam or shaft, or from any other suitable part.
of whatever sewing machine-shall be used.
The sewing machine and construction of feeding mechanism commonly preferred
is represented in part in Fig: 1, wherein A is the stationary bed, A' the bracket-
arm, A² the driving shaft. A³ the needle-operating lever, A' the needle-bar, and
As the take up lever, of a "N° 7 Wheeler and Wilson" sewing machine: the usual
upper presser bar and foot, and under feeding-device being removed, and the parts
that co-act with the needle, a, in making lock-stitches, being covered by the button-
hole feeding mechanism.
The work-holder in this feeding mechanism may be like some clamping devices
or feed-feet that have been heretofore used in button-hole sewing mechanisms, and
can have any suitable construction that will secure the proper accurate holding of
the button hole fabric for the action of the stitching devices. In the mechanism
represented in the drawings-the work-holder consists of a feed-foot B, Figs: 10:

page_text: 11. 13. 14. 19. conformed to an eyelet-end button hole, and having teeth, b. along
its lower edge, and jointed at b¹ b' to a spring-arm 62, that is hinged at b. to a
carrier C. which has a spring, c¹. for elevating the arm b² and is furnished with a
cam-lever C² by which the feed-foot can be depressed into an opening c in said
carrier and there held by spring pressure on the button-hole-work Z. Fig 14, that
is supported by a smooth surface on which the carrier moves, so that the button-hole
work will be securely held and moved upon said smooth surface by the feet foot.
As a preferred means for imparting from a sewing machine to the button-hole
work-holder the several movements required to make the mechanism automatically
bind an eyelet-end button hole by a series of over edge stitches that radiate along
the semi-circular end edge, and are essentially parallel along the other edges of the
button hole, there is combined with the work-holder a bar or lever that is adapted
to be moved to-and-fro by the sewing machine, and, devices for imparting from the
bar or lever to the work holder a step-by-step lengthwise movement, next a step-
by-step semi-circular movement, and next a step-by-step lengthwise movement, a
gradual short transverse movement in one direction in the last part of said first
lengthwise movement, and in the opposite direction in the first part of said last length-
wise movement, and momentary to-and-fro movements transverse to the direction
of said lengthwise movements. and throughout said lengthwise, semi-circular, and
short transverse movements.
All those movements are imparted to the work holder B in the mechanism repre-
sented in the drawings, by suitable devices, from a bar or lever D, that can be
connected with a sewing machine so as to be thereby moved to-and-fro in harmony
with the movements of the needle of the sewing machine. For this purpose a
switch cam A6, Fig: 14, is fast on the rotary shaft A2 of the sewing-machine shown
in Figure 1, and D. Figs 14 and 15) is a follower pivotted at d to the bar or lever D
and engaging with the cam, the whole being so combined that just after one with-
drawal of the sewing-machine-needle from the work in the work, holder, the lever
or bar D will be moved in one direction, and will be moved in the opposite direction
just after the next withdrawal of the needle, and so on repeatedly..
As a preferred method of imparting to the work holder the aforesaid lengthwise
and semi-circular movements, and short gradual transverse movements. in reverse
directions just before and after said semi circular movement, the work-holder is
mounted on a suitable moveable support, and there is combined with the work-
holder and its said support, mechanism for imparting to the work-holder upon and,
separately from said support the said lengthwise and semi-circular movements and
for imparting to said support and thereby to the work-holder the short gradual
transverse movements in reverse directions just before and after said semi-circular
movement
:
With the work-holder and its said support is also combined means for automa-
tically imparting to said support and thereby to the work-holder intermittent
momentary to-and-fro movements transverse to the direction of said lengthwise -
movements of the work holder, and during its said lengthwise, semi-circular and
short gradual transverse movements.
E, Figures. 1. 10. 20. is a bed plate which is to be firmly secured to, or inay
constitute, the base of the sewing machine. F Figs 1. 10. 12. 22, is a plate which
supports the work holder and its intermediate carrier and is movable to-and-fro in or
on ways or guides e, el Fig: 20, on the base E, but the part F can be made moveable
to and fro about a pivot in an extension of the line w¹. w. Fig 10 in carrying out
the primary parts of this invention. The work-holder B and its carrier C partake
of all the movements of the support F and are inovable to and fro lengthwise and
in a semi-circle upon and separately from that support.
For accurately directing and imparting the aforesaid lengthwise and semi circular
movements to the work-holder upon and separately from the support F the following
construction is commonly preferred, to wit-The part F is formed with two straight
opposite guides f. f. Figs. 12. and 22, and with a semi-circular guide f2, Fig 12,
extending between the guides ff. A disc G Figs: 12, 19, 24. is mounted on or in

page_text: the part F so that the disc can be turned to-and-fro in a semi-circle along the
guide and the disc has a short guide g which is like either of the guides ƒ ƒ¹ in
cross section and is directly opposite to, and forms a continuation of either the
guide for the guide f¹. when the disc is at one or the other end of its semi-circular
movement as in Figure 10. 11 or 19.)
The disc G and the work-holder-carrier C. are respectively formed or furnished
with straight guides g' and c' Figs: 24 and 25, which fit together and are parallel
to the lengthwise direction of the work-holder, and also parallel to the guides f. f¹
when the disc G is at either end of its semi-circular movement. The carrier C is also
formed or furnished with a guide c², Fig: 25, which fits and is movable along each
of the guides f. f', f and g; and the part C. has a feed gear c³, with a semi-
circular portion between two straight parts, and engaging with a driving gear-
wheel H that is carried by the part F, and is mounted to rotate thereon about a
stud h.
The parts are so arranged that when the work holder carrier C is in the position
represented in Figs 10 and 19, with the guide c² engaged with the guide ƒ by then
turning the gear wheel H in the direction pointed by the arrow s², the carrier C.
will be first moved in a straight course in the lengthwise direction of the work-
holder as pointed by the arrow 8 in Fig: 10 until the part c² engages with the
guide g of disc G and leaves the guide f. The gear H will then engage with the
semi-circular part of the feed gear c³, and will turn the carrier C with the disc G
through a semi-circle, while the part c² remains engaged with the guide g and
passes along the guide f³ and until it is opposite to the guide f¹. Then the gear-
wheel H will engage with the other straight part of the gear c³, and the part c²
will engage with and move along the guide f¹ while the carrier C is being again
moved in a straight course in the lengthwise direction of the work-holder as
indicated by the arrow sin Fig. 11. By-turning the gear wheel H in the reverse
direction, the carrier C will be moved backward from its place in Fig 11 to its
position in Figures 10 and 19. For limiting the turning movement of the
disc G on the part F these parts are formed or furnished with stops g² gª and ƒ³
Fig 21.
3
For imparting, to the slide F and thereby to the work-holder mounted thereon,
the aforesaid gradual short movements transverse to the lengthwise movements of
the work-holder, and in opposite directions just before and after its aforesaid semi-
circular movement to cause the proper placing of the over edge stitches along the
inner parts of the eyelet end of a button hole, as from v³ to v¹, and from u to u³,
Fig 2. 3 or 4 there is combined with the slide F and the gear wheel H from which
the lengthwise and semi-circular movements are imparted to the work-holder
means whereby said short gradual movements in opposite directions shall be
imparted to the slide F from said gear wheel. This object can be accomplished by
various devices, but, preferably, for that purpose the gear wheel H is formed or
'furnished with a cam I Figures 12 and 18 having the two concentric, connected
arcs i i¹ of different radii, and an elbow-lever J. is pivoted at j to the slide F and has
on one arm a follower j engaging with the cam I, and the other arm engaging
with a stop or abutment k, on a part K which does not partake of said short gradual
movements to be imparted to the slide F and thereby to the work-holder. These
parts are so combined that when, by the turning of the gear wheel H, the work
holder carrier C approaches the end of its first straight movement in the direction
indicated by the arrow s in Fig: 10, the follower j'. on the lever J will gradually
pass at from the cam arc i to the cam arc i' and will thereby cause the lever J
with the stop k as a fulerum, to give to the slide and thereby to the carrier C
and work-holder, a short gradual movement in the direction pointed by the arrow t.
in Fig 10. Also when, by the turning of the gear H the work-holder carrier C
has finished its semi-circular movement and is in the first part of its second length-
wise movement the follower will then gradually pass at ³ from the cam arc i¹
to the cam-arc i, and will thereby cause the lever J to move the slide F with the

page_text: carrier C and the work holder a short distance in the reverse direction indicated by
the arrow t, Fig 11.
To adapt the mechanism for feeding button holes having eyelet-shaped ends of
different sizes, means are provided for conveniently altering the lengths of the
aforesaid short gradual movements imparted to the slide F and work-holder carrier
just before and after the semi-circular movement of the latter; and preferably by
making the abutment-stud for the lever J adjustable along the arm of the lever
to different distances from its pivot. For that purpose the stud k. Fig 17 is closely
surrounded by a collar fitting in the slotted arm j³, and has an internal screw-
thread engaging with a clamp screw having a head fitting in and adjustable
along a recessed groove Fig: 23 in the part K.
The wheel H and cam I may be in one piece, but to provide for adjusting the
cam on the wheel and into proper relation to the follower j'. and the semi-circular
and straight parts of the feed gear c³ on the work-holder carrier, the cam I,
Figures 12. 14. 18, is preferably made in a separate piece from the wheel H, and
mounted concentrically thereon, and formed with a curved slot h' and furnished
with a headed screw h². Figure 18 extending through said slot and adapted to
clamp the cam to the wheel in somewhat different positions.
Various devices can be used for imparting to the slide F and consequently to the
work-holder thereon, momentary to-and-fro movements transverse to the direction
of the aforesaid lengthwise movements of the work-holder; and during its afore-
said lengthwise, se:ni-circular, and short gradual transverse movements. For that
purpose the driving bar or lever D is pivotted at e² to the base E and is connected
by a link D to a lever L which is pivotted at e³ to the base E and embraces a
part M, on the part K which latter is fitted to slide between guides f¹ƒ'
Figs 17. 21. 22 on the slide F, and against the base E at e, so that to-and-fro
movements shall be imparted to the slide K by the to-and-fro movements of the
lever D or L; and the to-and-fro movements of the slide K are imparted to the
slide F through the lever J and cam I which connect the two slides as above
specified
.
To adapt the mechanism to produce over-edge stitches of different lengths, or of
different depths from the edge of the button hole, means are provided for altering
the lengths of the momentary to-and-fro movements imparted to the work holder
with and by the slide F carrying the work-holder. For this purpose the rod or
link D2 is connected to the levers D and L by pivots, d', l, Figures 15 and 16,
which are adjustable along those levers to different distances from their fulcrums
by clamping devices indicated in the drawings, so that while the length of the to-
and-fro movements of the lever D remains the same, different lengths of to-and-fro
movements can be imparted therefrom to the slide F and the work holder, by the
adjustable link D2 lever L part M slide K and the aforesaid parts by which the
slides K and F are connected together.
Figures 14 and 16 show means for so adjusting the part K and consequently the
slide F, carrier C and work-holder B in respect to the driving lever L that when
the mechanism is combined with a sewing machine the work-holder shall be in
proper position in respect to the working point of the sewing machine needle, to
insure the placing of the over-edge stitches in the right positions in relation to the
edge of whatever eyelet end button hole shall be properly held by the work holder..
For this purpose the part M which connects the slide K with the lever L is made
adjustable along that slide by a stud K¹ which supports the part M and fits by a
tongue on its lower end into a slot . Fig 23 in the part K, and can be fastened at
different points along that slot by a screw-bolt m extending through the part K'
and slot and having a head m' at the bottom and a clamping nut m² at the top.
To avoid having an open space between the throat-plate through which the
needle works and the plate which surrounds the throat plate, and to avoid the
sliding of the button hole work upon said plates in its to-and-fro movements by
and with the work holder in directions transverse to the direction of the length-
wise movements of the work holder, and thus avoid the liability of displacing the

page_text: button hole work in the work holder by its to-and-fro transverse movements, the
throat piece N, Figures 12. 14. 19. 21. 22, is made with an oblong needle hole n,
and is caused to partake of all the movements of the work holder in directions
transverse to its lengthwise movements, by being secured to the slide F on which
the work holder is mounted and being of circular form and fitting in a circular
opening g³ Fig 24, in the disc or turntable G carried by said slide.
To provide excellent means for imparting to the work-holder-carrier C a faster
movement while turning in a semi-circle than when moving in straight courses to
properly space the over-edge stitches along the rounded end and sides of the button
hole there is combined with the work-holder carrier C and its driving gear Ha
pinion Figs 10. 11. 12. 14, means for imparting directly to said pinion and
thereby to the gear H a slow step-by step rotary movement, and means for
imparting directly to the gear H independently of the pinion O faster step-by-step
rotary motion only while the gear H engages with the semi-circular part of the
gear c³ of the work holder carrier.
For imparting said slow motion to the pinion O and faster movement to the
gear-wheel H, various well known pawl and ratchet, or friction devices can be used.
For thus turning the pinion O on a stud o on the part F a fine toothed ratchet
wheel P of,much greater diameter than the pinion O is shown firmly secured to the
latter and is furnished with a driving pawl having an engaging spring q. or withi
two or more such driving pawls adapted to alternately engage with the teeth of
the ratchet wheel.
For imparting the occasional faster movement to the gear wheel H the latter has
fast thereon a coarse toothed ratchet R, Figures 10. 11. 12, furnished with a
driving pawl S having an engaging spring 83 and so arranged that the pawl S shall
engage with and actuate the ratchet only while the gear H engages with the semi-
circular part of the feed gear c³.
For imparting the proper to-and-fro movements to the Pawls S and Q from the
driving lever D, various devices can be used, but preferably for these purposes the
pawl S is pivotted on and carried by a bar S. Fig: 12, which is fitted to slide in
a guide-way f. Fig: 22 in the part F, and has a joint connection with the lever D,
and the pawl Q is mounted on and carried by one arm of an elbow lever Q' which
is pivotted concentrically with the ratchet wheel P, and has its other arm connected
by a rod L¹ to the lever L, see figs 10 and 11, which is linked by the rod D² to said
driving lever.
To render the mechanism capable of placing the over-edge stitches at different
uniform distances apart along the side edges of the button hole, a means is provided
for conveniently altering the length of the steps imparted to the work-holder in its
lengthwise movements. For this purpose the rod L¹ is connected to the levers L
and Qby pivots and q¹, Figs 16 and 18, that are adjustable along those levers as
indicated in the drawings.
To adapt the mechanism for placing the over edge stitches at various 'uniform
distances apart along the semi-circular end of the button hole, a device is provided
for altering the length of the steps imparted from the lever D to the work-holder
in its semi-circular movement. For that purpose the sliding bar S' which carries
the pawl S is connected to the lever D by a stud d Fig: 15, adjustable along that
lever, by devices substantially as shown in the drawings.
To cause the proper engagement of the driving pawl S with the teeth of the
ratchet R whatever shall be the length of the to-and-fro movements imparted to
that pawl by the slide S¹, a guide shield T Fig 12. is adjustably secured to the
part F by headed screws to reaching through slots 3 in the shield; so that the
shield T can be set to keep the pawl S out of the ratchet teeth when the pawl is
retracted, as in Fig 10, and to guide the pawl so that it shall at each forward
movement properly take the right number of ratchet teeth, whatever shall be the
adjustments of the other parts of the mechanismı.
The ratchet R may be made in the one piece with either the wheel H or cam I,
but is preferably made separate from and secured to the wheel.
..

page_text: To make the pawl S.begin and end its action on the ratchet R at the right
points to properly turn the wheel H in relation to the beginning and ending of its
engagement with the semi-circular part of the feed gear c³ of the work holder, two
shields r., Figures 10. 11. 12. 14 are adjustably secured to the stock of the
ratchet R by screws whereby said shields can be adjusted along the ratchet so
as to cause the pawl. S to commence and end its action on the ratchet at
various different points as may be required by other adjustments of the
mechanism.
To provide means whereby the work-holder carrier can be easily moved forward
by hand in its straight and semi-circular courses, and also backward when the
pawls and S are thrown out of their positions for engaging with the ratchets P
and R the pinion. O or its ratchet wheel P is furnished with a hand piece p,
Figures 1, 10, and 14..
For conveniently throwing the pawls Q and S out of and into their positions
for engaging with the ratchets P and R, a pawl-shifter. U; Figs. 10. 11. 14. is
mounted so that it can be easily turned to and fro by its handle u³, about the
axis or hub of the ratchet wheel P, and has projections usu³so shaped and arranged
in respect to the pawl Q and a pin 8 on the pawl S, that when the part U is
turned into its position in Fig: 10 the pawls will be in place to engage with the
ratchets as shown in that figure, and that by turning the shifter U from its place
in Fig 10 to its position in Fig: 11 the pawls will be moved and held away from
the ratchets as represented in Fig 11, so that a person can then by the hand
piece easily. rotate the pinion O backward, and thereby cause the backward
movement of the work-holder carrier C from its place in Fig 11 to its position in
Fig: 10.
U Figs 10. 11. 13. is a spring dog which is secured to the part. F and bears
against the pawl shifter U and will engage with either of the notches o¹ o² in the
shifter and thereby insure the holding of the shifter in either of its positions shown
in Figures 10 and 11 but so that the shifter can be easily turned by hand from
either one of those positions to the other
In Fig: 14 p is a headed screw tightly engaging with a screw thread in the
journal stud o of the pinion O and ratchet wheel P. and p² is a somewhat elastic
washer or packing pressed by and between the head of the screw-and the wheel P
so as to produce friction against the latter and thereby prevent that wheel from
being turned by the backward movement of the pawl Q and its carrying lever Q₁
or by the to-and-fro turning of the pawl shifter U or by the momentum of the
parts
To limit the backward movement of the workholder carrier C. to the proper place
for beginning. the stitching of a button, hole, there is secured to the part F a stop-
piece V, Figures 11. 12. 19. 22, which can be fastened by a screw v³ Fig: 19 at
different distances from the needle hole n in the throat-piece N to suit the various
lengths of button holes to be stitched.
To make the mechanism capable of properly feeding an eyelet-end button-hole
to bar its narrow end, there is provided a device by which the part F and thereby
the work holder carrier C can be moved to-and-fro in a direction transverse to.
the lengthwise movements of the work holder carrier, and in addition to its
aforesaid other movements-For this purpose the part M, Figures 1. 12. 14. 16,
fits in an elongated opening 2 Fig: 12, through the part or lever L, and is in the
form of an eccentric or cam as shewn in Section in Fig: 12, and has a lateral
arm M' and is mounted so that it can be turned by hand by said arm to-and-fro
on the stud K¹ Figures 12 and 13, a distance limited by stops Wand X, Figures 10.
11. 13. and 16. on a cap m³ on said stud which is firmly secured to the part K.
These parts are so arranged that by turning the cam M by its arm M' from its
place against the stop W shown by Figures 1. 10. 12. and 16, to its position
against the stop X shewn by Figures 11. 13 and 14, the part K and consequently
the slide F and work-holder carrier C will be moved in the direction pointed by
the arrow t¹ a proper distance to change the placing of the over-edge stitches from

page_text: ·
one side edge of a button hole to across its slit as at w² in Fig: 2. or 3, and so
that by turning the cam M by its' arm M' from its position against the stop X to
its place against the stop W, the part K and consequently the parts F. and C.
will be moved a like distance in the reverse direction pointed by the arrow t to
change the placing of the to-and-fro stitches from across the slit of the button hole
to one edge thereof
.
The stop X is provided with a screw and nut by which that stop can be adjusted
along a curved slot m¹ Fig: 10, in the cap m³ to different distances from the
stop W., as required when different lengths of over-edge and barring stitches are
made
To retain the cam M in whatever position it shall be placed by turning its
arm M³ a compressed friction producing spring m³, Figures 13 and 14, is interposed
between the part M and cap m³; or to return the arm M¹.to, and keep it against,
the stop W whenever the arm shall be released after being turned to or toward
the stop X, a retracting spring me, Fig: 16, may have one end secured to the part M
and the other end to the cap m³.
To cause over-edge lock stitches around a button hole to appear on the upper
surface of the fabric substantially as indicated in Fig: 2, the tension on the lower
thread in the Sewing machine is made so great in respect to the tension of the
needle thread, that only those parts of the over-edge stitches that consist of the
needle-thread x2, are left exposed on the upper surface of the fabric.
To cause the over-edge lock stitches around the button hole to have the
appearance indicated in Figure 3. 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, or 9, on the upper surface of the
fabric the tension of the needle thread is made so great in respect to the tension
of the under thread in the Sewing Machine that the needle thread draws loops
of the under thread y² up through and over the fabric to the inner edge of the
button hole along which edge the needle thread 2 is left extending in a line
through the loops of the under thread.
In using the above described feeding mechanism in combination with a Sewing
machine to stitch eyelet-end button-holes, the work-holder-carrier C is first moved
by the hand pieco into the position shewn in Figures 10. and 19, with the
guide c² against the stop V, and the button-hole work Z Fig: 14 is placed under
and pressed and held by the feed-foot B upon the smooth upper surface of the
plates G. N. where exposed through the opening c in the carrier of the work
holding foot. Then if the narrow end of the button-hole is to be at first left
unbarred, and be subsequently barred by a bunch of stitches as indicated in
Fig 2. or 3, the arm M¹ of the cam M is placed and left against the stop W, and
the pawl shifter U is set as in Fig: 10 so that the pawls Q and S are in place to
operate the ratchets P and R respectively. Then the sewing machine is put in
operation and imparts intermittent momentary to-and-fro movements of uniform
length to the lever D from which lever by devices above described a continuous
series of uniform intermittent momentary to-and-fro movements are imparted to
the slide K and thence to the slide F and thereby to the carrier C, and work
holder B to form over edge or to-and-fro stitches-While these intermittent.
momentary to-and-fro movements are being imparted to the work holder, further
movements are imparted thereto from the lever D by the above described con-
necting devices as follows to wit:-First, a step by step straight lengthwise
movement is given to the carrier C. and work-holder B separately from the slide F,
and in the direction pointed by the arrows in Fig: 10 to place the over edge
stitches along one straight edge of the button hole from v to v, Fig: 2. or 3, and
while this straight movement of the carrier C is being somewhat continued a step
by step movement is imparted to the slide F and thereby to the carrier C separately
from the slide K and in the direction pointed by the arrow t Fig: 10 to place the
over-edge stitches along one side edge of the eyelet-end part of the button hole
from 2 to v Next a step by step semi-circular movement in the direction pointed
by the arrow 8', Fig: 1, is given to the carrier C and holder B. separately from the
slide F to place the over-edge stitches radially along the semi-circular end of the

page_text: button hole from v'. to u-Next a straight lengthwise step by step movement is
imparted to the carrier C and work holder B in the direction pointed by the
arrows in Fig: 11, and at the same time a short step by step movement is given
to the slide F. and thereby to the carrier C and work holder B in the direction
pointed by the arrow t' to place the over edge stitches along the other side edge of
the eyelet end of the button hole from u to u², and then the latter straight length-
wise movement of the carrier C. and work holder is continued to place the stitches
along the other straight side edge of the button hole from u² to u―Then to bar
the narrow end of the button hole as indicated at w² in Fig: 2. or 3, the pawl-
shifter U is turned by hand from its position in Fig: 10 to its place in Fig: 11
to stop the lengthwise movement of the work holder and at the same instant the
arm M of the cam M is turned by hand from against the stop W, as in Fig: 10,
to against the stop X as in Fig: 11 to change the placing of the over edge stitches
from the side to across the narrow end of the button hole as at w², and then by a
few of the stitches there placed together the end of the button hole is barred
whereupon the motion of the sewing machine is stopped
To bar the end of the button hole in the manner indicated at w³ in Fig: 4 the
pawl shifter U is to be kept in the position shewn in Fig: 10 and the arm M' of
the cam M is placed against the stop X at the starting of the Sewing machine and
is there held until a first straight row of a few barring stitches is made as at w
in Fig 5. Then the arm M¹ is instantly turned to against the stop W. and is left
in that position while the over edge stitching progresses along the button hole
from v to u¹, and when the latter point is reached the arm M₁ is instantly turned
to against the stop X and there retained until the barring is completed by a second
short row of to-and-fro stitches placed over the first row, whereupon the action of
the feeding mechanism and sewing machine is stopped
To bar the narrow end of a button hole as indicated in Fig: 6 the pawls Q.
and S. are to be kept in position to turn the ratchets P. and R, and the arm M' of.
cam M is first held against the stop X and then as each to-and-fro stitch is.
produced the arm M¹ is turned a step toward the stop W so that when the arm
reaches the latter stop a row of a few barring stitches have been made in an
inclined course as from v to v in Fig: 7. or 6. Then the arm M' is left against
the stop W until the edge of the button hole is stitched from v to u' and then the
arm M is turned a step towards the stop X as each to-and-fro stitch is made until
the arm reaches the latter stop and a row of barring stitches extends in an inclined
course from u¹ to vas in Fig: 6.
To bar a button hole as shewn in Fig: 8 the pawls Q. and S. are kept in place
to turn the ratchets P. and R, and the arm M' of the cain M is placed first against
the stop X as the lever D is moved into its position in Fig: 10 and next against
the stop W as the lever D reaches its place in Fig: 11 and so on repeatedly until
a few long barring stitches are made in a straight row as from v to v in Fig: 9.
or 8. Then the arm M is left against the stop W. as in Fig: 10 until the edge of
the button hole is stitched from v to u and then the arm M¹ is turned first against
the stop X as the lever D is moved into its position in Fig: 10, and is next moved
to against the stop W. as the lever D is moved into its position in Fig: 11, and so
on repeatedly until a second straight row of a few long barring stitches is made to
overlap the first row as from u to v in Fig: 8
In case the mechanism is to be used to feed to a Sewing Machine a button hole
having one open rounded end and one side edge continued in a straight line to
the semi circular end of the button hole substantially as indicated in Fig 9° or 9b,
the above specified short step by step transverse movement of the work holder in
one direction by and with its carrier C, and the slide F just before or after the
semi-circular movement of the work holder is to be omitted, as can be done
by shortening the cam arc i and lengthening the cam arc of the cam I.at.
one or the other end as indicated by dotted lines at or in Fig 12.
. By having the arc of the cam I extended at both ends as indicated by the
dotted lines at and in Fig: 12 the mechanism can be used to feed to a

page_text: Sewing machine a button-hole having both side edges continued in straight lines to
a semi-circle at one end
In the Drawings the ways ff' for the work holder carrier C. are. shewn
perpendicular to the direction of movement of the slide F, but can be somewhat
inclined thereto as indicated by the line Y, Y, in Fig: 12, and the other parts
.conformed to such variation if desired to make the over-edge stitches appear more
nearly perpendicular to the edges of, the button hole-For a similar purpose instead
of imparting a step movement to the gear H at each movement of the lever D in
.one direction only or at each second.ascent of the needle of the sewing machine as
above set forth, a step movement can be imparted to the gear H from the lever D
or from the Sewing machine by well-known pawl and ratchet feeding devices at
each movement of the lever D in either direction or at every ascent of the Sewing
Machine needle.
When the mechanism is being used the parts which do not hold the button
hole fabric and are not moved directly by hand are generally to be covered by
a casing or casings not shewn in the Drawings but shaped and arranged to
prevent contact of the fabric with the gearing and other moving parts of the
mechanism.
That portion of the mechanism which serves to impart to the work-holder by its
carrier Ĉ first a progressive straight lengthwise movement with a gradual transverse
movement in one direction in the latter part of said lengthwise movement, next a
progressive semi-circular movement, and next a progressive straight lengthwise
movement with a gradual reverse transverse movement in the first part of said last
lengthwise movement is not limited in its use to its combination with devices for
imparting to the work holder by its carrier C intermittent momentary to-and-fro
movements transverse to the direction of said lengthwise movements and throughout
its said lengthwise and semi-circular movements, but can be successfully used to
impart the same lengthwise semi circular and reverse transverse movements, to the
button hole work holder in combination with a Sewing machine by which to-and-
fro or over-edge stitches are produced by reason of the lateral to-and-fro movements
of the needle or by other well known devices. Thus the mechanism shewn in the
accompanying Drawings is adapted to feed fabrics having eyelet-end button holes
to a suitable Sewing Machine which makes to-and-fro or over-edge stitches by
leaving out the devices for imparting from the lever D intermittent momentary
to-and-fro movements to the part K, as by disconnecting the part K from the
lever L and fastening the part K to the stationary part E or by disconnecting the
part L from the levers D and Q₁ suitably connecting the lever Q' to the lever D
independently of the part L and making the part L stationary on the base E.
In some button hole stitching mechanism devised before this Invention, a button
hole work holder in the operation of stitching an eyelet-end button hole has
received from automatic means first a step by step lengthwise movement and a
short lateral movement in one direction in the last part of said lengthwise
movement, next a step by step semi-circular movement, and next a step by step
lengthwise movement and a short reverse lateral movement in the first part of said
last lengthwise movement, and sometimes intermittent momentary to-and-fro
movements transverse to the direction of said lengthwise movements, and throughout
said lengthwise and semi-circular movements-In the latter case however a short
thread was used, and the needle was passed entirely through the fabric as in hand
sewing and the work holder received a momentary transverse movement in one
direction at each ascent of the needle, and a momentary transverse movement in
the opposite direction at each descent of the needle to form over edge stitches in
which only one stretch of the thread extended on each side of the fabric from the
edge of the button hole to each perforation made by the needle.
Prior to the present Invention eyelet-end button holes had been bound by a
series of over-edge stitches by means of automatic mechanism consisting of a
Sewing machine having an eye pointed needle moving to-and-fro laterally, as well
as end wise, to form over-edge stitches from a continuous thread or continuous threads

page_text: in combination with a button hole work holder and mechanism for imparting to
the work holder first a progressive lengthwise movement with a short gradual
lateral movement, in the last part of said lengthwise movement, next a semi-
circular movement and next a progressive lengthwise movement with a short
gradual reverse lateral movement in the first part of said last lengthwise move-
ment. Such prior mechanisms, required as a necessary element à Sewing Machine
having an eye pointed needle moving to and fro laterally-Consequently in such
prior mechanisms it is impossible to use, any of the vast numbers of common lock-
stitch and chaiu-stitch sewing machines that. are in use throughout the civilized
world and do not have the needle move to-and-fro laterally.
By the present Invention all necessity for having the needle of the Sewing machine
move to-and-fro-laterally is avoided, in mechanisms for binding eyelet-end button
holes by a series of over-edge lock-stitches or chain-stitches, and the very important
object is accomplished of furnishing effective and durable means whereby the
common lock stitch and chain stitch Sewing machines that do not have the
needle move to-and-fro laterally can be used in binding eyelet-end button holes by
a series of over-edge stitches that radiate along the semi-circular end edge, and are
essentially parallel along the other edges of the button hole. That object is
attained by providing for or combining with such a Sewing machine a suitable
button hole work holder and mechanism for imparting to the work holder a
progressive lengthwise movement next a progressive semi-circular movement next
a progressive lengthwise movement, short gradual lateral movements in one
direction in the last part of said first lengthwise movement, and in the opposite.
direction in the first part of said last lengthwise movement, and also momentary
to-and-fro movements transverse to the direction of said lengthwise movements
and throughout said lengthwise and semi-circular movements.
'
A button hole feeding mechanism composed of a suitable work holder, a bar or
lever adapted to be moved to;and-fro by a Sewing machine, and mechanism for
imparting the aforesaid progressive lengthwise semi-circular, short lateral, and
momentary to-and-fro transverse movements to the work-holder all from the said
bar or lever only, is believed to be new and is of much practical importance
because it can be very essily combined for use with any suitable common lock-
stitch or chain-stitch sewing machine by placing and securing such feeding
mechanism in fit relation to the sewing machine and properly connecting any
suitable moving part of the latter with the said bar or lever only of the feeding
mechanism.
:
Improvements in
Having now described the nature of the said Invention of
Button-hole feeding mechanisms for Sewing Machines" as communicated to me by
my foreign Correspondents and having explained in what manner the same may be
carried into practical effect, I wish it to be understood that I claim
First The button-hole feeding mechanism described with reference to the
accompanying drawings which when properly combined with a sewing machine
making the common lock-stitch, chain stitch or other suitable stitch from a
continuous thread or continuous threads, is adapted to hold and automatically feed
to the stitch forming devices, fabrics having eyelet-end button holes, in such a
manner as to cause the rapid and thorough binding of the edges of the said button
holes all around by a series of overedge stitches which radiate along the semicircular
édge and are substantially parallel along the other edges of the button hole, and
which by adjustments in, the said mechanism can be made of different uniform
lengths and at various distances apart; and to firmly bar the narrow end of the
button hole as set forth.
Second: The combination with a sewing machine having an eye pointed needle
and means for moving the needle to-and-fro end wise and for producing therewith
stitches from a continuous thread or continuous threads substantially as specified, of
a button hole work holder and mechanism for imparting to the work holder a
progressive lengthwise movement next a progressive semicircular movement, next a

page_text: progressive lengthwise movement, short gradual lateral movements in one direction
during the last part of said first lengthwise movement, and in the opposite
direction during the first part of said last lengthwise movement, and intermittent
momentary to-and-fro movements transverse to the direction of said lengthwise
movements and throughout said lengthwise and semi-circular movements and in
one direction at one ascent of the sewing machine needle and in the opposite
direction at the next ascent thereof, whereby eyelet end button boles may be
.bound all around by a series of over edge stitches in which two stretches of
binding thread extend on each side of the fabric from the edge of the button hole
to each perforation made in the fabric by the needle, substantially as described
Third: The means described for imparting to the workholder from a bar or lever
adapted to be moved to-and-fro by the sewing machine, step-by-step length wise
movements, a step by step semicircular movement, gradual short transverse move-
ments just before and after the said semicircular movement, and momentary to-
and-fro movements transverse to the said lengthwise movements and throughout
the said lengthwise and semicircular movements.
Fourth The combination with the work holder B and the moveable slide or
support F of means for imparting gradual transverse movements to the said
support and means for imparting to the work holder lengthwise and semicircular
movements upon and separately from the said support, substantially as set forth.
Fifth The combination with the work holder B, carrier C, and reciprocating
slides or supports F and K, of means for extending or retracting the slide F and
with it the carrier and work holder, just before and after the semicircular move-
ment of the carrier, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
:
Sixth The combination with the work holder B, and its carrier C mounted on
the reciprocating slide or support F, and partaking of all its movements but
capable of being moved thereon in independent lengthwise and semicircular courses,
of means for accurately directing and imparting the aforesaid lengthwise and
semicircular movements substantially as set forth.
:
Seventh The combination with the toothed work holder carrier C mounted on
the reciprocating slide or support F and partaking of all its movements but
capable of independent lengthwise and semi circular movements thereon as
specified, of means for imparting to the work holder carrier a faster movement
while turning in a semicircle than while moving in straight courses, substantially as
and for the purpose set forth
:
Eighth The combination with the reciprocating slide F and workholder carrier
C of the turntable G and means for running the said work holder carrier Conto
and off from the said turntable in straight length wise courses and for moving it
and the turntable in a semicircular course upon the said slide F substantially as set
forth.
Ninth The combination with the slide or support F and work holder carrier C,
of the circular throat piece N having an oblong needle hole, and the turntable G,
as and for the purpose set forth
Tenth The combination with the workholder carrier C, slides F and K, and
vibrating levers. L and D, of means for adjusting the connections of the several
parts for the purpose of bringing the work holder carrier C into proper position.
with respect to the working point of the sewing machine needle to form overedge
stitches of different lengths or of different depths from the edge of the button hole
substantially as set forth.
Eleventh The combination with the slides K and F, work holder carrier C, and
means for imparting to the said workholder carrier step-by-step lengthwise.
movements, a step-by-step.semicircular movement, gradual short transverse move-
ments and momentary to-and-fro movements transverse to the said lengthwise
movements all substantially as specified, of means for varying the lengths of the
steps imparted to the work holder carrier during its said lengthwise and semi-
circular movements as and for the purpose set forth.
Twelfth The combination with the toothed work holder carrier C, gear wheel H,

page_text: ratchet R, and Pawl S, of means for ensuring the proper engagement of the said
pawl with the teeth of the ratchet and causing it to commence and end its action
on the ratchet at such points as may be required substantially as set forth.
Thirteenth The combination with the toothed work holder carrier C gear
wheel H, pinion O, ratchets P and R, and pawls Q and S, of means for throwing
the said pawls out of and into position and moving the work holder carrier by
hand in its straight and semicircular courses substantially as and for the purpose
specified.
Fourteenth The combination with .the vibrating levers D and L, slides K and F,
and work holder carrier C, of means substantially as described whereby the part F
and with it the work holder carrier C may be temporarily shifted in position with
respect to the needle of the sewing machine when it is desired to place the stitches
so that they shall bar the narrow end of the button hole as set forth.
In witness whereof I the said Arthur William Lovell Reddie have hereunto set
my hand and seal the third day of September in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and eighty three.
ARIN
THUR W. L. REDDIE.
(L.S.)