A NEW ORNAMENTAL FABRIC, AND THE MACHINERY FOR PRODUCING THE SAME
Year: 1862

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Joseph Willcock, of 89, Chancery Lane, in the
County of Middlesex, Patent Agent and Consulting Engineer, for the
Invention of "A NEW ORNAMENTAL FABRIC, AND THE MACHINERY FOR
PRODUCING THE SAME."-A communication from abroad by Amos Hanes
Boyd, of Medway, County of Norfolk, and State of Massachusetts,
United States of North America.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Joseph Willcock at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
18th July 1862.
'I, JOSEPH WILLCOCK, of 89, Chancery Lane, in the County of Middlesex,
Patent Agent and Consulting Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of
the said Invention for "A NEW ORNAMENTAL FABRIC, AND THE MACHINERY FOR
PRODUCING THE SAME," to be as follows:-
The subject matter of my Invention relates, in the first place, to a new
mode of forming or making a certain ornamental fabric, which I call "amo-
zine," which is designed to be used either by itself or to be attached to other
fabrics, for the purpose of ornament.
The mode of constructing this fabric will perhaps be best understood, by
describing it as made by means of a sewing machine, having the usual
mechanism for forming a seam, and in addition thereto and in connexion

page_text: therewith, having certain machinery for the purpose of manipulating one or
more threads, cords, braids, or other similar materials, which are interwoven
with the threads of the sewing at each stitch in a variety of ways, so as to
form a kind of gimp or braid or fringe, by means of such interweaving; and
also to sew the same on the surface of the cloth or other fabric by the same
operation in any desired line or figure, one, two, or more of these embroid-
ering threads or cords may be used of any desired size, color, or material, and
interwoven with the sewing threads proper in many forms, in a manner which
will be best understood from a description of the structure and operation of the
mechanism, and the representation of some of the forms of fabric which may
be produced by it.
In the making of this kind of fabric, the threads of the sewing machine
proper may be considered as forming a warp, and the ornamenting threads or
cords the weft, which by the operation of the machine are interwoven with the
first at the same time that they are also interwoven with the cloth, in the
operation of sowing.
In the Drawings herewith connected, Figure 1 represents a braid made
with one ornamenting cord, in addition to the sewing threads; Figure 2 repre-
sents a braid made with two ornamenting threads or cords; in this case the
cords are drawn tight. In Figure 3 the loops of the cords are left more open,
forming a kind of gimp; and in Figure 4 the loops of the cords are drawn to
one side a sufficient distance to form a fringe; Figure 5 represents the braids
thus made as formed into a net.
This is done by forming the braids on thin paper instead of cloth, in any
order or figure desired, and when it is completed the paper is removed,
and the net is left joined at all the crossings by the sowing threads. Other
forms of the fabric may be made with more ornamenting threads in a similar
manner.
The second part of my Invention relates to the construction of the machinery
by which this fabric is made. That portion of the mechanism which I call
the sewing machine proper may be adapted to make either the "shuttle
stitch" or the "double loop stitch" or the "chain stitch," all being well
known forms of sewing, and is of the same general arrangement, as regards
the sewing mechanism, as the mechanisms in common use, and the fabric to.
be ornamented is placed in the machine, and guided by the hand of the
operator in the same manner. The ornamenting threads or cords which are to
be interwoven with the sewing threads are manipulated by means of one, two,
or more light pendulous levers or thread carriers, which are placed close side.
by side, and have their fulcrums upon the "goose neck" or overhanging part

page_text: of the machine. In the lower end of each lever is an eye, through which the
embroidering cord is led, which is supplied from a bobbin placed above furnished
with suitable means to control and regulate the tension of the cord. These
levers are made to swing transversely to the line of the seam formed by the
-sewing mechanism, and just in front of the needle, and their eyes are placed
at different heights, so that the cords carried by them may pass by each other
from side to side of the line of seam without interference. As these levers
vibrate at every stitch of the sewing in any required order, the threads carried
by them are carried across between the stitches, and interwoven with them and
also sewed down upon the cloth or other fabric placed in the machine, thus
forming the embroidery, and sewing it upon the fabric to be ornamented by
the same operation. The movements of these levers are given by cams acting
upon their short arms, which cams are made of the proper form and placed in
proper order upon a cam shaft, to give the order and extent of movement of
the levers necessary to produce the particular style of ornament required.
This cam shaft is hung upon the "goose neck," and worked by the sewing.
machine.
When the machine is required to make fringe or any other form of fabric
that has the loops considerably extended upon either side of the line of seani,
there is employed in connexion with the lever that carries the fringing
cord, a point or pin, which is introduced within the loop as it is formed,
and holds it extended, until it is fastened by the sewing threads.
other devices might be employed for assisting or forming and holding the
loops instead, which would suggest themselves to the mechanician.
But
The third part of my Invention relates to a new mode of constructing the
feeding apparatus for sewing machines, which better adapts it to make the orna-
mental fabric herein-before described, and also to make other common fabrics,
as will be explained.
This part of my Invention consists, first, in the employment of a feeding
instrument upon each side of the material to be sewed or ornamented, working
in combination with each other, so as to cause the material to be moved
forward under a more positive control, so that when two peices or thicknesses
of material are placed in the machine, they may be made to move forward
ogether, if the feeding instruments have the same extent of motion, at each
titch, or one peice inay be made to progress faster than the other, if the feeding.
nstruments have a different extent of movement, thus causing one peice to be
rathered or wrinckled as.it is sewed upon the other, forming a "ruffle" as it
s called. . .
This part of my Invention consists also, in the second place, in raising tha

page_text: "presser," as it is called, in sewing machines, off from the material, when it is.
fed forward to permit the embroidering threads or cords to be introduced
beneath it as they cross the line of seam'at each stitch, so that wlien the
presser descends, the cords are held in position while the needle descends with
its thread in front of them, and fastens them. This vertical motion of the !
presser is also employed as the movement for attaching and detaching the
feeding instruments to and from the material, in the operation of feeding.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Joseph Willcock in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 17th.
January 1868.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JOSEPH
WILLCOCK, of 89, Chancery Lane in the County of Middlesex, Patent
Agent and Consulting Engineer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters.
Patent, bearing date the Eighteenth day of July, in the year of our Lord 1
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-two, in the twenty-sixth year of Her:
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs, and successors, give and grant unto me, the
said Joseph Willcock, Her special licence that I, the said Joseph Willcock, my,
executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Joseph.
Willcock, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree.
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the,;
term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the
Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "A NEW ORNAMENTAL:
FABRIC, AND THE MACHINERY FOR PRODUCING THE SAME," upon the condition 2
(amongst others) that I, the said. Joseph Willcock, my executors or
administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of
their hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature
of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed
and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within 8
six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters
Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Joseph Willcock, do hereby declare the
nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following 8
statement :-

page_text: The subject matter of my Invention relates in the first place to the manner
of forming or making a new manufacture to which I have given the name of
amosine braid, which is designed to be used either by itself or to be attached
to other fabrics or tissues for the purpose of ornament, or for any other
purpose to which it may be usefully applied.
The mode which I have adopted of constructing this fabric is by means of a
sewing machine having the usual mechanism for forming a scam with any of
the form of stitches usually employed in sewing machines, and in addition
thereto and in connection therewith, having certain machinery which will be
hereafter described,. by means of which one or more threads, cords, braids, or
other similar materials are interwoven with. the sewing threads in a variety.of
ways so as to form either a kind of gimp or braid or fringe by means of such
interweaving, and also to sew the same on to the surface of cloth or other
fabric in any desired line or figure by the same operation.. One, two, or more
of these embroidering threads or cords may be used of any desired size, color,
or material, and interwoven with the sewing threads in many forms, as will be
readily understood from an inspection of Sheet 1 of the Drawings, where
several of the forms are represented which the fabric may be made to assuine.
All of these are made by substantially the same mode of operation, in which
the sewing thrends may be considered as forming a warp and the ornamenting
threads or cords a weft, which, by the operation of the machine, are inter-
woven with the sewing threads at the same time that they are also interwoven
with the cloth or other fabric by the operation of sewing;. and, although the
braids assume considerable difference in appearance in the several Figures
they all have this fundamental principle of construction and are made by the
same machine.
.
In the Drawings of Sheet 'T,. Figure 1, represents one manner of forming a
braid or gimp with one ornamenting thread or cord, besides the sewing threads
crossing the sewing at each stitch; Fig. 2 is a braid made with two cords
drawn closely to the sewing threads, and both crossed at each stitch; Fig. 8
is a braid made with two cords, with the loops of the same left more open,.
forming a kind of gimp; Fig. 4 is a fringe formed by extending the loops of
the ornamenting threads the required distance to one side; Fig. 5 represents
network made of braids like Figure 2, formed and sewed on to a piece of thin
paper to preserve their positions until completed in any pattern desired, which
braids, by the process of formation, are also sewed. together at the inter-
sections. After the braids are all finished according to the pattern traced on
the paper the paper is removed leaving the net complete. Fig. 6 is a gimp
made with three cords beside the sewing threads interwoven in the order

page_text: shown; Fig. 7 is a gimp made with two cords with the intersections of tho
same with the sewing threads made at every third stitch as shewn; Fig. &
represents a section through the braid and cloth to show the arrangement of
the threads and cords when two cords are used. The sewing stitch repre-
sented is what is known as the double-loop stitch, so called, but any other
From this section it may be
sewing stitch may be used in the same manner.
seen that although the several forms shown have a different appearance the
mode of operation by which they are made is substantially the same in all,
the sections in all being substantially alike. Many other forms may also be
made by varying the order of interweaving the ornamenting cords, and also
varying their color, material, and size. The mechanism by which my new
fabric is produced and the manner of modifying the same to produce the
various forms in which it may be made will be explained in the description of
the second part of my. Inventiou.
The second part of my Invention relates to the manner of constructing the
mechanism for making the new manufacture which I have before described
and consists in the employment in combination with a sewing machine of
devices for manipulating one or more threads, cords, braids, or other similar
materials so as to interweave them with the stitches formed by the sewing
machine in such a manner as will produce that style of the fabric that may be
desired.
.
The third part of my Invention relates to the construction of the feeding
mechanism by which the fabric to be operated upon is carried forward through
the machine, and consists in the employment of a feeding instrument upon
each side of the fabric, working in conjunction with each other, by means of
which the feeding of the material may be better controlled when required to
be regularly fed along, and also by means of which the material may be
wrinkled or gathered as it is passed through the machine, and sowed in that
condition.
As the second and third parts of my Invention relate to the construction of
the mechanism, they will be described in connection.
•
Sheet II. and III. of the Drawings represent this mechanism and some of
the modifications of the same to adapt it to produce different styles of goods.
The letters refer to the same parts in all the Figures.
A is the bed plate of the machine, and B the overhanging part of the frame
called the "goose neck;" C is the needle bar, and c the needle working
vertically in the usual manner; D is the looper bar, and d the looping needle
which manipulates the lower thread, and, in conjunction with the needle,
forms the "double-loop" stitch so called, and is worked by the connecting

page_text: rod a', which is jointed to the lower end of the lever F and the face cam b,
which acts laterally against the back end. The looper bar is made with a
slot near the middle which embraces and slides upon the screw d' as a
fulcrum, so that the combined action of the longitudinal and lateral move-
ments of the bar gives to the looper needle an elliptic movement, which
enables it to co-operate with the sewing needle to form the stitch in the usual
manner. E is the main shaft of the machine, which carries the cains that
actuate the several operative parts of the machine; F is the lever which
actuates the needle bar by means of the cam slot fin its lower end, which
receives the crank pin f', which is fixed in the disc of the face cam b. The
sewing part of the mechanism is in its general construction and mode of opera-
tion like those in common use, and is designed to be used as a sewing machine
when the parts which manipulate the ornamenting cords are moved, so that it
need not be described in detail, nor is it material that the sewing mechanism
employed should make this kind of stitch, as mechanism making other kinds
of stitches may
G, G', are light pendulous levers working
upon a fulcrum at 9 upon the piece H, which is attached to the "
be used instead.
goose neck'
in the position shown, which vibrate across the line of the seam, and carry the
embroidering threads or cords G, G³, shewn in different colors, which are to
be interwoven with the sewing. These levers are provided with eyes at their
extremo lower ends, through which the embroidering cords are led as shown.
The cyc
of the lever G is placed as near to the table as it can be conveniently
worked, and the eye of the lever G¹ is placed a little above this to permit the
cords to pass each other as they are worked across the seam.
The recipro-
cating movement of these levers is given by the bent lever I, by means of a.
pin i fixed in its outer end, which works up and down in the diagonal slots a, a,
in the levers, which, being inclined. in opposite directions, impart a simul-
taneous motion in opposite directions to the levers. The bent lever I is
worked by a cam J, on the secondary shaft K, and spring j, which holds the
lever against the cam, which together impart the necessary reciprocating
motion to it at the proper time in the operation of the machine. The shaft K
is driven from the main shaft of the machine by the geers I', K¹, and revolves
with one half of the velocity of the main shaft, so that a single alternation of
the levers I and levers G, G', is made at every-revolution of the main shaft,
or in other words, at each stitch. The cords G2, G3, are wound upon bobbins
H2, H3, which are mounted upon the peice II,. and are led through eyes g' in
the upper ends of the levers G, G', and down to the eyes in their lower ends
from which they leail to the surface of the material to be operated upon.
at the point where the stitches are made, as is shown in the Drawings.

page_text: The manner of arranging the mechanism, which I have just described, is
adapted to making all kinds of braids with two cords, besides the sewing
threads, which intersect the seam at each stitch in opposite directions, as are
shown in Figures 2, 3, 4, and 5 of Sheet I.; but when other styles of braid
are made, such, for instance, as are shown in Figure 6, where three cords are
used, and in Figure 7 where two cords are used, in both of which the order
of interweaving is varied from that first described, another manner of
working the levers is employed, one arrangement of which is shewn in
Figures 14, 15, & 16 of Sheet III., which represent three views of that part
of the machine which embraces the modifications where the levers G, G', are
worked by pattern cams L, which have an intermittent rotation at each stitch,
and the cam surfaces are made of such form as to give the required order,
time, and extent of movement to the levers G, G', or to any number of levers
required to produce the style of goods to be made. Other arrangements of
mechanism may also obviously be used instead of those represented to work
the levers, and interweave the threads; but these serve to show the mode of
operation, and the nature of the modifications that would be required to adapt
the machine to any style of manufacture. The cams L, Figures 14, 15,
and 16, are both made in one peice, and mounted upon a shaft U, which
turns in bearings in the peice H, as shown. Upon the opposite end of the
shaft U is fixed a ratchet U', which has its teeth corresponding (in number)
to the repetitions of the pattern upon the cams, and is worked by the
pawl W upon the lever P, which raises the presser or feeding instrument P.
Upon the periphery of the cam wheel L is made a series of circular notches
or recesses I corresponding in number to the notches in the ratchet U, in
which the roller 1, upon the extremity of the lever 1, is pressed by the
spring, which serves to hold the cam wheel fixed at the proper points in
its intermittent revolution. The grooves in the cam L, which work the
levers G, G, are made upon opposite. sides thereof, and are of the proper
form to move the levers in the order and to the extent required, and act upon
the short arm of the levers to give them the vibrating movement required
by the intermittent rotation of the cam. The form of cam shown in the
Drawings is such as to impart a reciprocating movement to both the
levers G, G', in opposite directions at each stitch; but this order may be
varied, as desired, by a corresponding variation in the form of the cams.
M is a bent lever, which has its fulcrum at M¹, and receives a reciprocating
motion in one direction by means of the cam m upon the shaft K, acting
upon the pin m' in the short arm of the lever M, and in the opposite direc-
tion by the spring m³, the extent of motion in this last direction being

page_text: controlled by the stop screw k. At .the extremity of the long. arm of the
lever M is fixed a hook N, of the peculiar form shown, which works through
a curved slot in the guard O. The lever M, hook N, and guard O are
employed in making fringes, and their purpose is to seize the embroidering
cord between the lever G and the needlo after it has been drawn across the.
seam by the lever by means of the hook N, and draw it away in the form of
a loop until the motion of the lever M is stopped by the screw K, which
determines the length of the fringe. The machine, as represented in the
Drawing, is made to extend only one of the cords, or to operate only at every
other stitch; but it may be made to operate upon both the cords by putting
a second inclino upon the cam m' opposite to the first. In making close
braids the lever M and guard O and hook N would be removed from the
machine. Pis the presser which holds tho work to the table, and is also
mado one of the feeding instruments. It has a reciprocating vertical move..
ment to cause it to engage with and disengage from the material at each
stitch, and to permit the ornamenting cords to be introduced beneath it as
old across the seam, and also for the reason that the braid
they are worke
the general surface of the material upon which it is
produced projects above
required to be raised off from the surface as it
placed, so that the presser
passes back over it. It receive vertical movement from the bent lever. P',
which is worked by the camp on the main shaft, and a horizontal movement
by means of the bent rocker arm upon the rocking shaft Q', and rocker
arm Q³ upon its opposite end, which extends down to the face cam 9 upon
the main shaft, which poves in one direction, the motion in the opposito
direction being given by the spring n, the extent of which is regulated by tho
Set screw ' to regalate the feed; R is the lower feeding instrument. It is a
plate working in a recess in the table, and has a reciprocating motion in a
horizontal direction only, which it receives either from the rocker arm R', or
the rocker arm ', on the rocking shaft R, as may be desired. Upon. the
opposite end of the, rocking shaft is another cam R, which is connected by
the link to the rocker arm Q, from which it receives its motion. The
arms R', R³, are fastened by set screws ?, with milled heads, and are
intended to be used separately, and when one is made fast to the shaft, the
other is left loose. When the arin R', which is connected directly with the
feed plate R is made fast, both this and the presser P have an equal and.
simultaneous motion for the purpose of; ordinary feeding; but when it is
desired to move one farther than the other, as would be the case in making.
a ruflle, or in gathering one peice upon another, then the other arm R³ is
made fast at the proper place upon the shaft R, and the arni R³ loosened.
:
:

page_text: The extromity of the arm Rª works in a slot of a lever S, which has its
fulcrum at s upon the under side of the bed plate A, and the outer end of which
works upon the same pin in the feed plate R, that receives the arm R', so
that by fixing the arm R2 upon its shaft, so as to work in the slot of the
lever S, either nearer to or further from its fulcrum, will impart to the feed
plate Ra greater extent of movement than the presser P receives, varying.
according to the position of the arm R³ upon its shaft, which is adjusted by
the operator. The feed plate R and presser P are provided with teeth or not,
according to the work to be done, as, for instance, in common feeding both
the feeders would have teeth in the usual way; but in feeding some materials,
such as patent leather, so called, where the impressions of the teeth would
disfigure the goods; the teeth may be omitted, and the engagement of the
feeder with the material be effected solely by clamping it between them; and
in feeding gathered work, the teeth of the feeder R would be made hooking
forward, or in the direction of the feeding, and only on that part of it in fron
-
at 1
of the needle, and the teeth of the presser P made hooking in the opposite
direction to prevent the finished work from being carried forward by the action
of the lower feeder. For this reason the presser foot is made so as to be
detached from its bar, as shown, to enable it to be exchanged.
1
the
Figure 17 represents a sido elevation, Figire 18 a front elevation, and g
Figuro 19, a plan of a part of the machine with a device added for assisting in
the making of braid or gimp, like, Figure 3, Sheet, where the loops are left
open. T is a picce of the form shewn, which has at ts lower end two slender
fingers or points t, t, which have their ends bent down, and nearly paralell to
the table, and extend forward a little beyond the needle when in the position
shown by the red lines in Figure 18. These fingers pass outside of
presser P, which is made narrow for that purpose, and are male to be
adjusted
to a greater or less distance apart upon either side of the acelle to determine
the length of the loops of the embroidering cord. The upper end of the
peice T is made to embrace, with a light friction, the leaf spring-T, upon
which it slides up and down, which is fixed to the peice H, as shown, and
serves both as a support to the peice T, and permits it to vibrate to tho two
positions shown in Figure 18 by its flexure. The price I receives its motion.
from its needle lever F, a section of which is shown in Figure 18, in black
lines, in its upper position with the peice T raised, and thrown outwards, and
the fingers t, t, pressed down upon the work. When the needle lever Frises
it meets the incline upon the inside of the peice T, and raises it to its
upward limit of motion, when the continued upward motion of the lever
acting against the inclined surface throws it outward to the position shown in

page_text: black lines. When the needle lever descends, leaving the incline t, the'
peice T swings forward by the action of the spring T, the friction between
the two being sufficient to prevent the peice T from descending. The needle
lever, when near its lower limit of motion, comes in contact with the stud t²
in the piece T, and forces it down to the position shown in red lines. By this
motion of the fingers t, t, they first pass over the embroidering cords, which are
drawn across the seam by the levers G, G', as is shown in Figure 17, and
then press them down upon the table; the presser P then rises, and the
levers G, G', vibrate back, passing the cords under the presser, and leaving
them looped around the fingers t, t. The presser then descends, and tho
needle rises, and by the action of the needle lever F against the incline t'
the fingers are drawn out of the loop, and raised to the position shown in
black lines.
By the arrangement of mechanism just described, tho fingers t, t, would
repeat their operations at every stitch; but when it is desired to make a
braid or gimp, for instance, like that shown in Figure 7, Sheet 1, where the
extended loop is formed at every third stitch, the action of the fingers is
required to be modified. The device by which this is done is shown in blue
lines in Figures 17, 18, and 19, where V represents a button, which is fixed
in the peice T, and W is a thin disc or wheel mounted upon a stud which
projects from the under side of the goose neck, and is so placed that its
periphery passes behind the button V. It is provided with a ratchet with,
say, twelve teeth, which works with the pawl W' on the vibrating lever W³,
which receives its motion from the needle lever F through the link W. The
periphery of the wheel W is cut away at four equidistant places, one of which
is shown as opposite to the button. When the disc is in this position the
fingers will operate as before described, but when the disc bas turned a dis-
tance equal to one notch of the ratchet, which is done when the needle bar is
near its upward limit and the peice T thrown out, the full part of the
periphery passes behind the head of the button V, and holds it so that the
fingers cannot operate again until the disc has moved three teeth of the
ratchet or three stitches, when the peice T is again liberated, and the fingers
are permitted to act. The periphery of the disc is to be formed according to
the order in which the fingers are required to act, and its size and the umber
of teeth in the ratchet are made to_conform to same number of repetitions of
the pattern, is shown in Figure 18; in black lines, in its upper positio with
the piece T raised and thrown outward, and in red lines in its lower ps ition
with the piece T moved inward, and the fingers t, t, pressed down up
work. When the needle lever Frises it meets the incline upon the
the
side

page_text: of the piece T, and raises it to its upward limit of motion, when the continued:
upward motion of the lever acting against the inclined surface; throws it.
outward to the position shown in black lines. When the needle lover
descends, leaving the incline t', the piece T swings forward by the action of
the spring T, the friction between the two being sufficient to prevent the
piece T from descending. The needle lever, when near its lower limit of
motion, comes in contact with the stud t, in the peice T, and forces it down.
to the position shown in red lines. By this motion of the fingers t,.t, they.
first pass over the embroidering cords, which are drawn across the seam by
the levers G, G', as is shown in Figure 17, and then press them down. upon
the table; the presser P then rises, and the lovers G, G, vibrate back,. passing.
the cords under the presser, and leaving them looped around the fingers t, t..
presser then descends and the needle rises, and by the action of the
needle lever F against the incline t¹ the fingers are drawn. out of the loop,.
and raised to the position shewn in black lines..
The
By the arrangement of mechanism just described, the fingers t, t, would
repeat their operations at every stitch; but when it is desired to make a braid
or gimp, for instance, like that shown in Figure 7, Sheet 1, where the
extended loop is formed at every third stitch, the action of the fingers is
required to be modified. The device by which this is done is shewn in blue
lines in Figures 17, 18, and 19, where V represents a button which is fixed
in the peice T, and W is a thin disc or wheel mounted upon a stud which.
projects from the under side of the goose neck, and is so placed that its
periphery passes behind the button V. It is provided with a ratchet with,
say, twelve teeth, which works with the pawl W on the vibrating lever W²,
which receives its motion from the needle lever F through the link W. The
periphery of the wheel W is cut away at four equidistant places, one of which
is shown as opposite to the button. When the disc is in this position, the
fingers will operate, as before described, but when the disc has turned a dis-
tance equal to one notch of the ratchet, which is done when the needle bar
is near its limit and the piece T thrown out, the full part of the periphery
passes behind the head of the button V, and holds it so that the fingers cannot
operate again until the disc has moved three teeth of the ratchet or threo
stitcbes, when the piece T is again liberated, and the fingers are permitted to
act. The periphery of the disc is to be formed according to the order in a
which the fingers are required to act, and its size and the number of teeth in
the ratchet are made to conform to some number of repetitions of the
pattern.
Having thus described my new fabric and the mechanism for making the same,.

page_text: and some of the modifications thereof that I have employed in making different
styles of the same, I wish to be understood that I do not limit my Invention
merely to the forms of the fabric and the mechanism described, as the same
principles and modes of operation may obviously be greatly modified in form,
and differently embodied in mechanism, which will be equivalent in operation
and result. What I claim as my Invention is,-
First, the new fabric or manufacture which I have called amosine braid,
constructed substantially as described.
Second, I claim the employment, in combination with a sewing machine,
of the devices, herein described, or others equivalent for manipulating one or
more threads, cords, or other similar materials, and interweaving the same
with the stitches of the sewing for the purpose of producing my new manu-
facture, substantially as described.
Third, I claim the employment, in a sewing machine, of a feeding instru-
ment upon each side of the material to be fed working in combination with
each other, substantially in the manner and for the purposes described.
Fourth, I claim the employment of two feeding devices in combination
with each other, having a differential action, so that one of the feeding devices
shall feed the finished work a proper length for each stitch, while the other feeds
either the whole or a part of the material an increased distanco in advance of
the sewing to form a ruffle or gathering, substantially as described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Joseph Willcock, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Seventeenth day of January, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-three.
Witness,
W. STEER,
No. 89, Chancery Lane,
London, W.C.
(L.B.) JOB. WILLCOCK.