IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTure of YARN FOR USE AS WARP IN WOOLEN FABRICS
Year: 1875

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Arthur Charles Henderson, of No. 6, Southı-
ampton Buildings, Holborn, in the County of Middlesex, Patent
Agent, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTure of
YARN FOR USE AS WARP IN WOOLEN FABRICS."-A communication from
abroad by Messieurs Collière, Malinet Jeune, and Company, Manu-
facturers, of Sedan, in the Department of Ardennes, in the Republic
of France
caled the 25th January 1876, and dated the 3rd August 1875.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Arthur Charles Hender-
son at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his
Petition, on the 3rd August 1875.
I, ARTHUR CHARLES IIENDERSON, of No G, Southampton Buildings,
Holborn, in the County of Middlesex, Patent Agent, do hereby declare
the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE
OF YARN FOR USE AS WARP IN WOOLEN FABRICS," a communication to me
from abroad by Messieurs Collière, Malinet Jeunc, and Company,
Manufacturers, of Sedan, in the Department of Ardennes, in the
Republic of France.
-
Up to the present time combed and carded yarn have only been used
separately in the manufacture of more or less fulled woolen cloth.

page_text: This Invention consists in the application by twisting of carded on
combed woolen yarn, or the combination of carded and combed woolen
yarn, such combination being effected by twisting one on the other.
The proportions averaging 20 to 30 per cent. of combed yarn to 67 or
80 per cent of carded yarn by weight, this combination of the two yarns
in suitable proportions is not only equal to the finest wool, but even
surpasses it by its embellishment of down. In this mode of manu-
facture the object is to bury the combed in the down of the carded yarn
as much as possible, and forcing the combed yarn to act as an invisible
protection in woolen fabrics, raised, velvety, and even those shorn by the
machine.
One of the important advantages of this system is that extremely
short matters hitherto incapable of being twisted are now rendered
available for manufacture, obviating the employment of long filaments
at an increased expenditure. The twisted yarn forming the subject of
the present Invention is therefore a yarn composed of extremely short
filaments, rendered sold by a core of yarn of combed wool, much finer
than the carded yarn. ·
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The discovery has the merit of permitting of the twisting of undyed,
combed, and carded woolen yarn, the cloths made thorefrom dross well
and dye admirably without losing colour, the down in the material
being full, spongy, and absorbs the colouring matters, preserving them in
the tissues.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Arthur Charles Henderson in the Great Scal 2
Patent Office on the 31st January 1876.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, ARTHUR
CHARLES HENDERSON, of No. 6, Southampton Buildings, Holborn, in
the County of Middlesex, Patent Agent, sond greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her 3
Letters Patent, bearing date the Third day of August, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-five, in the thirty-
eighth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors,
give and grant unto me, the said Arthur Charles Henderson, Her special

page_text: '
licence that I, the said Arthur Charles Henderson, my executors, admi-
nistrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Arthur Charles
Henderson, my exccutors, administrators, and assigns, should at any
time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times there-
after during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might
makc, use, excrcise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention
for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF YARN FOR USE AS WARP IN
WOOLEN FABRICS," a communication to me from abroad by Messieurs
Collière, Malinet Jeune, and Company, Manufacturers, of Sedan, in
the Department of Ardennes, in the Republic of France, upon the
condition (amongst others) that I, the said Arthur Charles Henderson,
my executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under
my, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly
describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what
manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be
filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next
and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Arthur Charles Henderson, do
hereby declare the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement:-
Up to the present time combed and carded yarn have only been used
separately in the manufacture of more or less fulled woolen cloths.
The object of this Invention is the application by twisting of carded or
combed woolen yarn, such combination being effected by twisting one on
the other.
The improved yarn is intended for use as warp thread in all woven
fabrics, whether loose or closely woven, the Inventors are aware that
twisted, speckled, or clouded thread is now in use composed of a carded
woolen yarn of one shade and a combed woolen yarn of another shade,
but their application has no connexion with the twisted, speckled, or
clouded thread In these kinds of yarn the two or more threads com-
posing it being of different colours, the whole is intended to appear in
the fabric manufactured so as to produce the requisite effect of colour.
But the twisted yarn forming the subject of the present Invention is
not so much a thread, as understood in commerce, but is a yarn com-

page_text: posed of short woolen filaments which are rendered solid with a core of
yarn of combed wool, much finer than the carded yarn.
In the present combination or improved yarn the combed yarn need
weigh only from 20 to 30 per cent as compared with 67 to 80 per cent.
of carded yarn
The object of the carded yarn is to bury the combed
yarn as much as possible in its down so as to force it to act as an
invisible protector in woolen fabrics, raised, velvety, and even shorn.
It is well known by manufacturers that combed woolen yarn lias
never been employed in the proportion named in raised woolen fabrics
of a single shade. The Invention therefore has the merit of permitting
of the twisting of undyed combed and carded woolen yarn and making
cloths therefrom which dress well and dye admirably without turning
grey, as the down in this material is full, spongy, and absorbs the
colouring matters and preserves them in the tissue, whilst in the simple
combed stuffs they often smear
⋅
The combination of the two yarns in suitable proportions not only
equals the finest wool, but even embellishics it with down (which is the
most esteemed quality in carded wool) but is also the means of bringing
together again what the combing had separated, which is most advan-
tageous to both. This combination is of great service to industry, as it
permits of the use of short matters which hitherto have proved
impracticable to manufacture, and consequently necessitated the
employment of long filaments to enable them to be twisted, and thereby
increasing expense.
Fabrics whose warp is of simple combed yarn, and whose surface is
smooth by reason of the total absence of down, the combing having
completely separated it, has a cold feeling, whilst the subject of the
present Invention on account of the combination referred to is richer in
down than the finest unworked wool. The result is that this down
(which floats above the yarn and the tissue produced from it) feels like
a very soft brush, which gives a much warmer and agiccable sensation
to the touch. It is this down which after napping forms the surface of
fulled stuffs, and lies in the same manner in cloths for wearing apparel,
and is straight in Montagnac velvet by beating the stuff on the wrong
side, thus it will be understood that fabrics made with the improved
yarn contain a quantity of down both internally and externally, that is
to say, an immense amount of filaments finer and softer than the combed

page_text: yarn that it envelopes, and that these filaments appear alike on the back
and on the surface of the material, all these filaments receiving and
retaining the dye better than the single combed wool with a smooth
surface on which the dye casily runs; the colouring matter penetrates
the material better and more advantageously, it being more spongy or
porous than the simple combed matter, whilst when dyed it is more
brilliant and does not turn grey or dull.