CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN THE METHOD OF MANUFACTURING HATS OR COVERINGS FOR THE HEAD, AND IN APPARATUS EMPLOYED THEREFOR
Year: 1868

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Joseph Dunkerley, of Denton, in the. County
of Lancaster, Hat Manufacturer, for the Invention of "CERTAIN
IMPROVEMENTS IN THE METHOD OF MANUFACTURING HATS OR COVERINGS
FOR THE HEAD, AND IN APPARATUS EMPLOYED THEREFOR."
Sealed the 21st August 1868, and dated the 28th February 1868.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Joseph Dunkerley at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on
the 28th February 1868.
I, JOSEPH DUNKERLEY, of Denton, in the County of Lancaster, Hat,
Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for
"CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN THE METHOD OF MANUFACTURING HATS OR
COVERINGS FOR THE HEAD, AND IN APPARATUS EMPLOYED THEREFOR," to be as
follows:-
My Invention relates to the forming or shaping of the brims of hats
and similar coverings for the head, which process is termed " "curling
the brim," and the improvements consist,--
First. In so arranging the apparatus in which the hat is enclosed that
a space may be left therein in a certain position so that steam, gas,

page_text: or other heat may be applied only to that part of the brim which is to
be "curled."
Secondly. The improvements consist in the novel application and usc
of a metallic or other suitable "brim curling template" or form, which
is varied in shape according to the shape of brim required, the use of
such template being to impart its form to the brim. When the brim
is flat (before shaping) the "template" is placed on and attached to the
brim block, and the hat brim is placed in contact therewith, and by
shielding all other parts therefrom the ordinary pressure is applied only
to the part of the brim heated or softened for "curling," whereby the
ordinary internal "crown block" is dispensed with during the process
of curling the brim.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent
filed by the said Joseph Dunkerley in the Great Seal Patent Office
on the 28th August 1868.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JOSEPH
DUNKERLEY, of Denton, in the County of Lancaster, Hat Manufacturer,
send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Twenty-eighth day of February, in the
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-eight, in the
thirty-first year of Her reign, did for Herself, Her heirs and successors,
give and grant unto me, the said Joseph Dunkerley, Her special license
that I, the said Joseph Dunkerley, my executors, administrators, and
assigns, or such others as I, the said Joseph Dunkerley, my executors,
administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no
others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the term
therein expressed, should and lawfully might make use, exercise, and
vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the
Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "CERTAIN IMPROVE-
MENTS IN THE METHOD OF MANUFACTURING HATS OR COVERINGS FOR THE HEAD,
IN APPARATUS EMPLOYED THEREFOR," upon the condition (amongst
others) that I, the said Joseph Dunkerley, my executors or adminis-
trators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of
their hands and scals, should particularly describe and ascertain the

page_text: nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be
performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent
Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the date
of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I; the said Joseph Dunkerley, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement and accompanying Drawings (that
is to say) -
-:
My Invention relates to the forming or shaping of the brims of hats
and similar coverings for the head, which process is termed "curling
the brim," and the improvements consist in so arranging the apparatus
in which the hat is enclosed that a space may be left therein in a
certain position so that steam, gas, or other heat may be applied only
to that part of the brim which is to be "curled."
Secondly, the improvements consist in the novel application and use
of a metallic or other suitable "brim curling template" or form, which
is variable in shape according to the shape of brim required, the use of
such template being to impart its form to the brim. When the brim
is flat (before shaping) the "template" is placed on and attached to
the brim block, and the hat brim is placed in contact therewith, and by
shielding all other parts therefrom the ordinary pressure is applied only
to the part of the brim heated or softened for "curling" whereby the
ordinary internal "crown block" is dispensed with during the process of
curling the brim.
In order that the Invention may be better understood and explained
in detail I have hereunto attached a Sheet of Drawings made upon a
scale of about threc inches to the foot.
Fig. 1 represents a vertical section of the improved arrangement of
apparatus for heating or softening the hat brim, in which the shape or
body of the hat is shewn in position with that portion of the brim
exposed to the softening influence of steam that requires curling or
shaping; Fig. 2 represents a detached portion of the same, in which gas
is shewn as a medium for softening the necessary portion of the brim
that requires curling; Fig. 3 represents an end elevation of Fig. 1;
Fig. 4 represents a vertical section of an ordinary hydraulic pressing
machine adapted for the purpose of curling the softened portion of the
brim of hats known in the trade as "Anglesea curls" by pressure.

page_text: Figs. 5 and 6 are respectively a longitudinal and transverse section
of the frame or stop upon which the hat is supported; Fig. 7 represents
a plan view of the same, shewing the outlines of the packing in dots;
and Figs. 8, 9 and 10 represent similar views to the last of the shape
or frame employed when plain shapes are required.
In Figs. 1 and 2, a, a, is the base or bed supporting the frame or
stop upon which the brim of the hat c is supported; d, are the
uprights; e is a pulley over which the cord or chain fis placed, and
which supports the top block and framing supporting the hat, this chain f
is supplied with a counterpoise or balance weight g, that enables the
cover to be easily raised or lowered, the catch and wheel i being pro-
vided for the purpose of preventing the hat and its fittings being
raised when lighter than the counterpoise g. The hat c when in position
as seen in Fig. 1 in the frame or shape 6 has a packing or plate k
placed upon the upper surface of the brim, the whole being kept down
by the ratchet wheel and pawl i, thereby covering in the exposed portion
of the hat brim in the steam or softoning chamber m, the ring or
guide m¹ causes the steam from the pipe n when turned on by the tap n¹
to impinge upon and soften the exposed portion of the brim i, after
which the steam being turned off the pawl or catch is removed by the
handle from the ratchet wheel i, enabling the cover to be raised. The
hat brim thus prepared is inverted and placed in the hydraulic press
as seen in Fig. 4. Previous to placing the hat in this inverted
position a thin metal template o is placed upon the bed a¹ in the press
upon which the inverted hat is supported by the brim, the previously
softened portion of the brim overhanging the template a distance
equal to the amount of curl required, the frame is then placed upon
the hat, at this time the hydraulic cap p containing the india-rubber
bag q is lowered and secured down by means of the clamps r, the ring s
being forced against the india-rubber so as to form a perfect bed a, that
will cause the india-rubber q to enclose and completely cover the hat,
the softened portion of the brim being alone exposed. Immediately
the pressure is turned on through the pipe to the inner surface of the
rubber comes into forcible contact with the exposed portion of the
brim, and turns it under the thin metal template o, thereby forming the
necessary "Anglesca curl," after which the hydraulic cap p is raised,
and the curled hat withdrawn, the dotted lines scen in Fig. 5 represents
the thin metal template being withdrawn from the curl; where plain

page_text: shapes are required the shape or frame seen in Figs. 8, 9, and 10 is
substituted for the template o.
Having now described the nature of the said Invention, I wish it to
he understood that I claim,—
First. The novel and peculiar arrangement of apparatus employed
for softening that portion of the brims of hats that require curling..
And, secondly, the forming or curling such softened portion by
hydraulic pressure through the medium of the template described as o¹
in the Drawings, together with the general arrangement of mechanism
described and shewn in the Drawings.
In witness whereof, I, the said Joseph Dunkerley, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, this Twenty-seventh day of February, in
the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-
eight.
JOSEPH DUNKERLEY. (L.S.)
Witnessed by
JOHN HUGHES,
Clerk to John Davies & Son,
Office for Patents,
Manchester.