Improvements in the Manufacture of Woollen Plush Goods.
Year: 1889

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Woollen Plush Goods.
We HERMANN MULLERS and ARTHUR SPINDLER of 4 Reiterstrasse, Dülken, in the
Kingdom of Prussia, Empire of Germany, Manufacturers, do hereby declare the
nature of this Invention and in what manner the same is to be performed to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement and accom-
pauying drawings:-
Our said Invention has reference to the manufacture of twilled woollen plush
goods. The manufacture of this description of goods has hitherto been carried on for
the most part by hand looms, and attempts to weave the same as a double fabric by
power looms have failed owing to various drawbacks, one of these being the elasticity
of the woollen yarns. A further reason for the failure of the attempts to weave
twilled double fabric woollen plushes by power is that in this class of goods for each
double pick there are two pile yarns crossing each other and projecting in different
directions. The present invention deals with improvements in the weaving of twilled
double fabric woollen plushes in power looms, in which the pile yarns instead of being
woven into both grounds are bound by certain auxiliary picks at the back of one of
the grounds the said auxiliary picks being secured to the ground and incorporated
more firmly, with the pile yarns by special binding warp yarns.
To render our invention perfectly clear we have annexed hereto a sheet of illustrative
drawings to which we will now refer.
Fig. 1 is a cross sectional view of the loom we employ to produce our improved
double woven woollen plush goods.
Fig. 2 is a sectional view, in the direction of the warp, of woollen plush goods as.
as present produced in hand looms.
Fig. 3 is a plan view of the fabric shown in Fig. 2.
Fig. 4 is a sectional view, in the direction of the warp, of a double woven twill
plush fabric.as hitherto produced in power looms and as such a fabric
being cut. It will be observed that the pile warps cross.
Fig. 5 is a plan of a cut fabric such as is shown in Fig. 4.
appears, before
Fig. 6 is a sectional view, in the direction of the warp, of one half of the double
fabric shown at Fig. 4 after the same has been cut, showing the manner in which the
cut pile warps project aslant and across each other.
Fig. 7 is a section; in the direction of the warp, of our improved double woven
twill woollen plush produced in a power loom and not having the disadvantages of the
fabric shown in Figs. 4. 5, and 6 in respect that the pile warp yarns instead of
crossing as shown in Fig. 4 lie parallel with each other and exactly opposite each
other as shown in the plan view Fig. 8 so that when the pile yarns are cut the pile
fibres spread directly upwards instead of aslant as in Fig. 6.
Fig. 10 is a modified mode of weaving in which the pile yarns while crossing are
bound by our improved method to both of the grounds.
Referring to Figs. 4 to 6 it will be observed that the pile yarns 1 and 2 (Fig. 4)
are both woven into the grounds and that when they extend from fabric to fabric
they cross the other pile yarus 3 and 4 which are similarly woven into both grounds.
The two piles in immediate juxta-position are thus not produced by one and the same
pile yarn as in the band loom fabric shown in Figs. 2 and 3 but by different yarns.
For example the pile a is produced from the yarns 1 and 2 and the pile 6 from the
yarns 3 and 4.
In this system of weaving, this: crossing of the pile yarns cannot be avoided aud
this crossing is the reason why, when the fabric is cut, it assumes the appearance
shown at Fig. 6, the pile sprouting slantwise in different directions instead of
spreading upright as in the hand loom fabric shown in Figs. 2 and 3. The cut fabric
ГД
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page_text: is thus caused to assume a confused appearance and the piles . b by the crossing of
the yarns instead of lying exactly opposite to or facing each other as in Fig. 3 appear
as in Fig. 5 to pass each other, instead of affording the mutual support necessary in
woollen goods. These two defects practically render woollen goods woven in this
manner valueless.
The present invention deals with an improved method of weaving such goods
whereby the aforesaid disadvantages are overcome. The chief feature of our invention
is that instead of weaving the pile warps into both ground fabrics as in Fig. 4, we
weave them into one ground only, preferably the lower ground fabric (see Fig. 7).
and in conjunction with the upper ground fabric we use auxiliary weft picks
marked 5 and 10 (Fig. 7) which bind the pile yarns 1 and 2 to the back of the upper
fabrics. In conjunction with these auxiliary picks and to incorporate them more
completely with the ground we use one or both of the binding warps e and seen in
Fig. 9.
The section at Fig. 7 shows our improved fabric very clearly, and it will be
observed that instead of crossing as in Fig. 4 the pile warps 1 and 2 lie parallel and
each pair is composed of the same yarn and not of different yarns as in Fig. 4. Thus
the double pile a extending from the lower to the upper ground and again from the
upper to the lower is composed of the same yaru 1 and the double pile 6 is composed
of the same yarn 2. Froin this arrangement it follows that the two yarns forming
the pile do not pass or lie askew from each other as do a and b in Fig. 5 but lie directly
opposite to each other and stand perpendicularly exactly as in the hand loom fabric
shown at Figs. 2 and 3 and as shown in Figs. 8 and 9. The numbers 1. 2, 3, 4.
et cetera (see Fig. 7) show the successive order in which the weft picks are woven
into the ground of the upper and lower fabrics and also the successive order of the
auxiliary pile warp binding weft picks 5 and 10. For example pick 1 is followed by
pick 2 in the upper fabric, then follow picks 3 and 4 in the lower fabric; next comes
the auxiliary binding pick 5 followed by picks 6 and 7 in the upper ground and
picks 8 and 9 in the lower ground: then auxiliary pick 10 and so on.
The cycle of
picks in Fig. 7 is thus ten, c. d being the ground warps; 1, 2 the pile warps. The
ground warp of the lower fabric is left out in the drawings for the sake of clearness.
In Fig. 9 the lines cf represent binding warps that are woven into the upper fabric
to tie down and bind the auxiliary picks 5 and 10 to the back of the fabric.
Referring again to, Fig. 1 which is a sectional view of a loom capable of weaving
our improved twill double fabric woollen plush, the Fig. shows the arrangements of
the shafts, the ground warps, the binding warps and the pile warps. The ground
warp comes from a beamy and is divided into two parts one part going over the
roller h and the other part over the roller the two parts being operated by
the shafts 3, 4, 5 and 6-that is to say two shafts for the upper fabric and two for the
lower fabric. The pile warp comes from the beam i and passing partly around and
between the guide rollers k. is led beneath the guide bar m and then over the
elastically suspended rods n. o to be operated by the shafts 1 and 2.
The binding
warp is led from the beam p and passing under the guide rod q is directed to the
shafts 7 and 8 by which it is operated. As shown in Fig. 1 the shafts are in the
position they assume when the auxiliary picks 5 or 10 are being thrown. The double
fabric is divided by the reciprocating knife s as it passes over the breast beam t, the
divided fabrics being rolled on the rollers u. v. In the improved fabric as shown at
Fig. 7 the pile warps 1 and 2 are woven into or incorporated with the under fabric
only and it presents the same appearance as does the hand .loom fabric shown in
Fig. 2 as will be apparent from a comparison of Fig. 2 with the under fabric of
Fig. 7. As has been already said the pile warp is secured to the upper fabric by the
independent auxiliary picks 5 and 10,-a more secure union of the whole to the
upper fabric being obtained by the tying or binding warps e. f. As the pile when
cut spreads itself perpendicularly instead of each pile slanting across its neighbour as
in Fig. 6, we obtain a strongly woven fabric with all of the appearance and
durability of hand woven goods. It will be understood that the pile faces of the
double fabric are idential when divided, although the pile warps are woven into the
ower fabric and are bound to the upper fabric by the auxiliary picks 5 and 10 and

page_text: the tie warps e. f. It will be evident from an inspection of Figs. 4 and 6 in which
the pile warps are woven into both upper and lower grounds, that in our improved
fabric where the pile warps are woven into the lower ground only, a considerable
economy in pile warp (which is the more expensive material) is obtained, an
economy which we consider will be sufficient to cover the cost of the additional tie
If it is desired to secure the pile warps to
warps and auxiliary binding pick weft.
both upper and lower fabrics by means of the auxiliary binding picks 5, 10 as in the
upper fabrics Fig. the uncut double fabric will assume the appearance shown at
Fig. 10. But although the pile warp threads lie inclined with relation to each other
in the uncut fabric as in Fig. 10, yet as they emerge straight from the fabric aud
perpendicularly thereto, when the fabric is cut and raised or brushed the pile will
assume the appearance shown at Figs. 2 and 7. It will be understood that the tying
warps e. are used in both grounds when woven as in Fig. 10.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what we
claim is:
(1) In the manufacture of double woven woollen plush goods having a twilled
effect, weaving the same in such a manner that the pile warp is woven into one of
the grounds only and is secured to the back of the other ground by independent
auxiliary picks 5 and 10 which latter are in their turn secured to the back of the
ground by tie warps e. f. in the manner, with the objects, and substantially as described
and shown.
(2) In the manufacture of goods of the indicated description securing the pile
warp to both the upper and lower fabric in the process of weaving, by means of
the auxiliary picks 5 and 10 in conjunction with the tie warps e and f substantially
as described and shown
Dated this 1st day of November 1889.
DUTTON & FULTON,
1. St. James Square, Manchester, Agents.