IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF CERTAIN WOVEN FABRICS
Year: 1879

page_text: In the Matter of the Letters Patent granted to DUGALD SCOTT of the Firm of
Jones Brothers & Co. Manufacturers of 12 York Street Manchester in
the County of Lancaster and JAMES EDELSTON of the Firm of H. C.
Outram & Co. Manufacturers of Preston in the same County for the
Invention of " IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF CERTAIN
WOVEN FABRICS" bearing date the 15th day of August 1879.
DISCLAIMER AND MEMORANDUM OF ALTERATION filed by the
Patentees Dugald Scott and James Edelston in the Great Seal Patent Office
with the Specification to which the same relates pursuant to the Statutes in
that case made and provided.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME we the said
DUGALD SCOTT and JAMES EDELSTON send greeting
WHEREAS Her Majesty Queen Victoria by Her Letters Patent bearing date
the 15th day of August 1879 in the 43rd year of Her reign did give and grant
unto us the said Dugald Scott and James Edelston our executors administrators
and assigns the sole privilege of making, using exercising and vending our Inven-
tion of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF CERTAIN WOVEN FABRICS
within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland the Channel Islands and
the Isle of Man for and during the term of 14 years thence next ensuing
وو
And whereas in pursuance of a condition in the said Letters Patent contained
the said Dugald Scott and James Edelston did within six calendar months next
after the date of the said Letters Patent cause a Specification in writing under our
hands and seals purporting to particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the
said Invention and in what manner the same was to be performed to be filed in
the Great Seal Patent Office on the 14th day of February 1880.
And whereas since the date of our said Letters Patent and of the filing of the
said Specification in pursuance thereof we have discovered that the description of
our Invention as therein described and claimed is too wide and includes matters
which as not being new we have ascertained we cannot legally claim; we are
therefore desirous of disclaiming certain portions of our said Specification, and of

page_text: altering and amending the said Specification and claiming clauses in the manner
following, that is to say:-
"
At line 9 page 2 of the printed copy of our said Specification as printed and
published by Her Majesty's Printers we erase the words "partly cut pile and
partly damask, leno or other figured pattern" and at line 10 we erase the first
word "or," and after the word "damask we insert the words "of weft cut pile'
and after the word "plain" in the same line we insert the word "weft" and at
line 22 after the word "represents we erase the word "our" and we insert in lieu
thereof the article "a" and at line 23 after the word "damask" we insert the
words "to which we make no claim as forming part of our present Invention."
"
In line 34 before the words "cut pile" we insert the word "weft."
And in the claiming clause of the said Specification at line 47. (page 3) of the
said printed copy we erase the words "means whereby " and we insert the word
"manufacture.'
And at line 48 after the word "construction" we insert the word "of" and we
erase the words " I can be woven."
At line 50 after the word "damask" we erase the word "figures" and we insert
the word "fabrics."
"
"
And we erase lines 52 and 53 being the whole of the second claim.
At line 54 we erase the word "Thirdly" and we insert in lieu thereof the word
Secondly" and at line 56 we erase the word "Fourthly" and we insert the word
'Thirdly."
And at line 1 page 4 we erase the word "Fifthly" and we insert the word
"Fourthly."
And we do hereby declare that our said Specification when amended and altered
by us in the manner above indicated by this present Disclaimer and Memorandum
of Alteration will be read as follows.
NOW KNOW YE that we the said Dugald Scott and James Edelston do
hereby declare the nature of the said Invention and in what manner the same is
to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement, that is to say.
Our Invention consists in the manufacture of certain figured woven fabrics, the
faces of which are all damask of weft cut pile, or partly damask of weft cut pile
and partly plain weft cut pile, and also of any combination of leno or other open
work with weft cut pile.
In performing our Invention we make use of a loom of the ordinary construction
with the tappets or shedding motion arranged! in the manner required for floating
the weft threads over the warp threads to form races in the parts of the pattern
that are afterwards cut to form the pile, and with a jacquard or other equivalent to
produce the damask, leno, or other figure that is being woven with the cut pile
portion of the pattern, or the damask of cut pile.
In some combinations of our improved weft pile fabrics we throw portions of the
weft to the back of the cloth, which in some cases are afterwards sheared
off or otherwise removed. And in order that our Invention may be more fully
understood and readily carried into operation we will proceed to describe the
accompanying Sheet of diagrams. Fig. 1 represents a method of weaving a design
partly of weft cut pile and partly of damask to which we make no claim as
forming part of our present Invention. The white stripes a, a shew the weft cut
pile, which may be trod as tie-up No. 1, or any other weft pile tie-up where the
race is preserved; the pile may be afterwards cut in the ordinary way. The shaded
stripes b, b, shew the damask figure, which may be any design within the scope of a
jacquard machine. The white in stripe b represents the plain ground in the figure
and the shaded part the weft threads floating over the warp as in any ordinary
jacquard figure c represents a crammed stripe or cord of warp threads, which may
or may not be introduced at the option of the designer. The whole of this design
is worked by a jacquard of the ordinary construction with the warp drawn in the
in
A

page_text: usual way or the damask figure may be worked by the jacquard, and the plain
weft cut pile by shafts in addition to the jacquard.
Fig. 2 represents our method of weaving a design made of weft cut pile with
damask of cut pile. The white stripe at a shows the weft cut pile, which may be
trod in any of the ways named in the explanation of Fig. 1, and may be afterwards
cut in the usual way. The white in stripe b represents the damask of cut pile,
which may be trod as tie-up No. 1, or any other weft pile tie-up in which the race
is preserved. The black in stripe b represents the plain ground, which is formed
by throwing the pile picks on the back or by interweaving them in the back
c represents a crammed stripe as in Fig. 1, which may or may not be introduced at
the option of the designer. In the stripe b the weft pile picks which are left on the
surface of the cloth are afterwards cut in the usual manner and stand up and form
the figure of cut pile, which may be any design within the scope of the jacquard
machine. The whole of this design may be worked by a jacquard of the ordinary
construction, or jacquard and shafts, as named at end of explanation of Fig. 1.
stripe
A
Fig. 3 represents our method of weaving a figure of partly cut pile and partly
leno. The at a shows the weft cut pile, which may be trod in any of the ways
named in the explanation of Fig. 1. or may be damask of cut pile worked on
principle of damask of cut pile in Fig. 2. The horizontal lines at b show the leno
picks; the perpendicular lines the leno warp threads. The leno may be worked as
tie-up No. 2, or any other leno tie-up. Tie-up No. 2 shews how the warp and
weft threads forming the leno may be worked. In the leno the warp is drawn
in in the usual way, either full dented or empty dented, according to pattern
wanted.
In tie-up No. 2 a. b. c & d on the Drawing represent four of the warp ends
(i.c., one repeat of the leno) which are worked by the jacquard and are drawn
through the harness; c and d are also drawn through the doup shaft or other
equivalent to form the leno which is marked c on the Drawing. Nos. 1 to 20
represent the picks. When the picks are required to be on the back of the leno all
the warp must be lifted. This combination may or may not have the addition of
a crammed stripe between the leno and velvet, as in Fig. 1. When a number of
picks are required to form the pile it is necessary to throw a great portion of the
picks to the back of the leno, which have afterwards to be sheared off or otherwise
removed. The whole of this design may be worked by a jacquard in addition to
the requisite number of doupes or other equivalents necessary to form the leno
required; or a combination of cut pile and leno may be worked by shafts alone
without a jacquard.
Fig. 4 represents our method of weaving a combination of partly cut pile and
other open work than leno. The stripe a shows the weft cut pile, which may be
trod in any of the ways named in the explanation of Fig. 1; or may be damask of
cut pile worked on principle of damask of cut pile as in Fig. 2. The horizontal
lines at b show a portion of the weft picks, which interwoven with the warp
threads form the open work; the perpendicular lines shew the warp threads. The
warp is drawn in in the usual way, either full dented or empty dented, according
to pattern wanted, and the open work may be worked as tie-up No. 3, or any other
open work tie-up. In tie-up No. 3 a, b. c. d. c. f, represent six of the warp ends
(i.e., one repeat of the open work), which are worked by the jacquard. Nos. 1 to 6
represent the picks. When the picks are required to be on the back of the open
work all the warp must be lifted. This combination may or may not have the
addition of a crammed stripe between the open work and velvet, as in Fig. 1.
When a great number of picks are required to form the pile it is necessary to throw
a great portion of the picks to the back of the open work, which have afterwards
to be sheared off or otherwise removed. The whole of this design may be worked
by an ordinary jacquard or any other shedding motion.
Figs. 5 and 6 represent our method of weaving weft cnt pile patterns distributed
over the whole surface of the fabric. The white in the Figures shew the damask

page_text: of cut pile, which may be trod as tie-up No. 1 or any other weft pile tie-up in which
the race is preserved. The black represents the plain ground, which is formed by
throwing the pile picks on the back, or by interweaving them in the back. The
weft pile picks which are left on the surface of the cloth are afterwards cut in the
usual manner and stand up and form the figure of cut pile, which may be any
design within the scope of a jacquard machine. The warp is drawn in in the usual
way and the whole of these two designs, or any designs within the scope of a
jacquard machine, may be worked by a jacquard of the ordinary construction. The
patterns and tie-ups shewn in the Drawing are only given as illustrations, and may
be varied to any extent according to the nature of the fabrics to be woven and the
patterns to be: produced.
Having now described the nature and object of our said Invention we wish it to
be understood that we claim as our Invention the manufacture in a loom of the
ordinary construction of the following improved woven fabrics, namely :—
Firstly. Damask fabrics of weft pile, as described, which pile can afterwards be
cut in the usual manner.
Secondly. The combination of plain weft cut pile with weft pile damask as
described.
Thirdly. The combination of plain weft pile or weft pile damask with leno or
other open work.
Fourthly. In the combination of weft cut pile and leno or other open work the
throwing some portion of the weft to the back of the fabric which in some cases
may be sheared off or otherwise removed.
In witness whereof, we, the said Dugald Scott and James Edelston have here-
unto set our hands and seals this Twelfth day of July-One thousand eight
hundred and eighty.
I hereby grant my fiat giving leave to the within named Dugald Scott and a
James Edelston to file in the Great Seal Patent Office, with the Specification to
which the same relates, the above written Disclaimer and Memorandum of
Alteration.

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Dugald Scott, of the Firm of Jones, Brothers, and Co.,
Manufacturers, 12, York Street, Manchester, in the County of Lancaster, and
James Edelston, of the Firm of H. C. Owtram and Co., Manufacturers, Preston,
in the same County, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANU-
FACTURE OF CERTAIN WOVEN FABRICS."
Sealed the 13th February 1880, and dated the 15th August 1879.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Dugald Scott and James
Edelston at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 15th August
1879.
DUGALD SCOTT, of the Firm of Jones, Brothers, & Co., Manufacturers, 12, York
Street, Manchester, in the County of Lancaster, and JAMES EDELSTON, of the
Firm of H. C. Owtram & Co., Manufacturers, Preston, in the same County. “IM-
PROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF CERTAIN WOVEN FABRICS."
Our Invention consists in the manufacture of certain figured woven fabrics, the
faces of which are partly cut pile and partly damask, leno, or other figured pattern,
and also of any combination of leno or other open work with weft cut pile.
Our improved fabrics consist of alternate stripes of cut pile and figured damask,
or leno, or other open or ornamental pattern, or the cut pile pattern may be
distributed over the whole surface of the fabric.
In performing our Invention we make use of a loom of the ordinary construction
with the tappets or shedding motion arranged in the manner required for floating
the weft threads over the warp threads to form races in the parts of the pattern
that are afterwards cut to form the pile, and with a jacquard or other equivalent
to produce the damask, leno, or other figure that is being woven with the cut pile
portion of the pattern. In some combinations of our improved weft pile fabrics we
throw portions of the weft to the face or back of the cloth, which in some cases are
afterwards sheared off or removed.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by the
said Dugald Scott and James Edelston in the Great Seal Patent Office on
the 14th February 1880.
DUGALD SCOTT, of the Firm of Jones, Brothers, and Co., Manufacturers, 12, York
Street, Manchester, in the County of Lancaster, and JAMES EDELSTON, of the Firm
of H. C. Owtram and Co., Manufacturers, Preston, in the same County. "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF CERTAIN WOVEN FABRICS."
Our Invention consists in the manufacture of certain figured woven fabrics, the
faces of which are partly cut pile and partly damask, leno, or other figured pattern,
or all damask of weft cut pile, or partly damask and partly plain cut pile, and also
of any combination of leno or other open work with weft cut pile.
In performing our Invention we make use of a loom of the ordinary construction
with the tappets or shedding motion arranged in the manner required for floating
the weft threads over the warp threads to form races in the parts of the pattern
that are afterwards cut to form the pile, and with a jacquard or other equivalent
to produce the damask, leno, or other figure that is being woven with the cut pile
portion of the pattern, or the damask of cut pile.
In some combinations of our improved weft pile fabrics we throw portions of the
weft to the back of the cloth, which in some cases are afterwards sheared off or
otherwise removed. And in order that our Invention may be more fully under-
stood and readily carried into operation we will proceed to describe the accompanying
Sheet of Diagrams. Fig. 1 represents our method of weaving a design partly of
weft cut pile and partly of damask. The white stripes a, a, shew the weft cut pile,
which may be trod as tie up No. 1, or any other weft pile tie up where the race is
preserved; the pile may be afterwards cut in the ordinary way. The shaded stripes
b, b, shew the damask figure, which may be any design within the scope of a
jacquard machine. The white in stripe b represents the plain ground in the figure,
and the shaded part the weft threads floating over the warp as in any ordinary
jacquard figure. c represents a crammed stripe or cord of warp threads, which may
or may not be introduced at the option of the designer. The whole of this design
is worked by a jacquard of the ordinary construction with the warp drawn in in
the usual way; or the damask figure may be worked by the jacquard, and plain
weft cut pile by shafts in addition to the jacquard.
Fig. 2 represents our method of weaving a design made of a cut pile with damask
of cut pile. The white stripe at a shows the weft cut pile, which may be trod in
any of the ways named in the explanation of Fig. 1, and may be afterwards cut in
the usual way. The white in stripe b represents the damask of cut pile, which
may be trod as tie up No. 1, or any other weft pile tie up in which the race is
preserved. The black in stripe b represents the plain ground, which is formed by
throwing the pile picks on the back or by interweaving them in the back.
c represents a crammed stripe as in Fig. 1, which may or may not be introduced at
the option of the designer. In the stripe b the weft pile picks which are left on the
surface of the cloth are afterwards cut in the usual manner and stand up and form
the figure of cut pile, which may be any design within the scope of the jacquard
machine. The whole of this design may be worked by a jacquard of the ordinary
construction, or jacquard and shafts, as named at end of explanation of Fig. 1.
Fig. 3 represents our method of weaving a figure of partly cut pile and partly
leno. The stripe at a shews the weft cut pile, which may be trod in any of the
ways named in the explanation of Fig. 1, or may be damask of cut pile worked on
principle of damask of cut pile in Fig. 2. The horizontal lines at 6 shew the leno
picks; the perpendicular lines the leno warp threads. The leno may be worked as
tie up No. 2, or any other leno tie-up. Tie-up No. 2 shews how the warp and weft

page_text: threads forming the leno may be worked. In the leno the warp is drawn in in the
usual way, either full dented or empty dented, according to pattern wanted.
In tie up No. 2 a, b, c, & d on the Drawing represent four of the warp ends (i.e.,
one repeat of the leno), which are worked by the jacquard and are drawn through
the harness; c and d are also drawn through the doup shaft or other equivalent to
form the leno which is marked e on the Drawing. Nos. 1 to 20 represent the
picks. When the picks are required to be on the back of the leno all the warp
must be lifted. This combination may or may not have the addition of a crammed
stripe between the leno and velvet, as in Fig. 1. When a number of picks are
required to form the pile it is necessary to throw a great portion of the picks to the
back of the leno, which have afterwards to be sheared off or otherwise removed.
The whole of this design may be worked by a jacquard in addition to the requisite
number of doupes or other equivalents necessary to form the leno required; or a
combination of cut pile and leno may be worked by shafts alone without a
jacquard.
Fig. 4 represents our method of weaving a combination of partly cut pile and
other open work than leno. The stripe a shews the weft cut pile, which may be
trod in any of the ways named in the explanation of Fig. 1; or may be damask of
cut pile worked on principle of damask of cut pile as in Fig. 2. The horizontal
lines at b shew a portion of the weft picks, which interwoven with the warp threads
form the open work; the perpendicular lines shew the warp threads. The warp is
drawn in in the usual way, either full dented or empty dented, according to pattern
wanted, and the open work may be worked as tie up No. 3, or any other open
work tie-up. In tie-up No. 3 a, b, c, d, e, f, represent six of the warp ends (i.e.,
one repeat of the open work), which are worked by the jacquard. Nos. to 6
represent the picks. When the picks are required to be on the back of the open
work all the warp must be lifted. This combination may or may not have the
addition of a crammed stripe between the open work and velvet, as in Fig. 1.
When a great number of picks are required to form the pile it is necessary to throw
a great portion of the picks to the back of the open work, which have afterwards
to be sheared off or otherwise removed. The whole of this design may be worked
by an ordinary jacquard or any other shedding motion.
Figs. 5 and 6 represent our method of weaving weft cut pile patterns distributed
over the whole surface of the fabric. The white in the Figures shew the damask of
cut pile, which may be trod as tie up No. 1, or any other weft pile tie up in which
the race is preserved. The black represents the plain ground, which is formed by
throwing the pile picks on the back, or by interweaving them in the back. The
weft pile picks which are left on the surface of the cloth are afterwards cut in the
usual manner and stand up and form the figure of cut pile, which may be any
design within the scope of a jacquard machine. The warp is drawn in in the usual
way, and the whole of these two designs, or any designs within the scope of a
jacquard machine, may be worked by a jacquard of the ordinary construction.
The patterns and tie-ups shewn in the Drawing are only given as illustrations, and
may be varied to any extent according to the nature of the fabrics to be woven and
the patterns to be produced.
Having now described the nature and object of our said Invention we wish it to
be understood that we claim as our Invention the means whereby in a loom of
the ordinary construction the following improved woven fabrics can be woven,
namely:
Firstly. Damask figures of weft pile, as described, which pile can afterwards be
cut in the usual manner.
Secondly. The combination of plain weft cut pile or weft pile damask with
ordinary damask figures, as described.
Thirdly. The combination of plain weft cut pile with weft pile damask, as
described.
Fourthly. The combination of plain weft pile or weft pile damask with leno
or other open work.

page_text: Fifthly. In the combination of weft cut pile and leno or other open work the
throwing some portion of the weft to the back of the fabric, which in some cases
may be sheared off or otherwise removed.
In witness whereof, we, the said .Dugald Scott and James Edelston, have
hereunto set our hands and seals, this Thirteenth day of February, One
thousand eight hundred and eighty.
DUGALD SCOTT.
JAMES EDELSTON. (L.S.)
(L.S.)