IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF GUIPURE, CONSISTING PARTIALLY OF METALLIC THREAD
Year: 1879

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Williain Robert Lake, of the Firm of Haseltine, Lake,
& Co., Patent Agents, Southampton Buildings, London, for the Invention of
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF GUIPURE, CONSISTING PARTIALLY
OF METALLIC THREAD." A communication from abroad by Adolphe Casse,
Dani Trance Manufacturer
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Robert Lake at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 5th December 1879.
WILLIAM ROBERT LAKE, of the Firm of Haseltine, Lake, & Co., Patent Agents,
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF
Southampton Buildings, London.
[A communication
GUIPURE, CONSISTING PARTIALLY OF METallic Thread."
from abroad by Adolphe Casse, of Paris, France, Manufacturer.]
Heretofore in the manufacture of guipure on the looms called guipure looms of
various kinds, threads of flax, cotton, silk, or the like only have been used, that is
to say, the threads have been either of vegetable or animal origin. But according
to the present Invention I considerably increase the beauty and richness of such
fabrics by introducing threads of gold, silver, or other suitable metal. The lustre
of the metal adds to the particular and distinctive effects of the designs or patterns
whether these comprise open work or not.
The interweaving of the metallic threads employed as hereinafter described in
combination with threads of cotton, flax, or silk requires no special arrangement of
the loom; its construction and operation remains as heretofore when used in the
manufacture of guipure according to this Invention, but the employment of the gold
and silver threads enables me to produce fabrics of a different kind to any heretofore
obtained and of exceptional beauty.
In manufacturing guipure according to this Invention the weaving of the
metallic threads with the other threads may be effected in a variety of manners.
In some cases the fabric may be made almost entirely of the metallic threads, and
in other cases the proportion of such threads may be small. In this manner a very
great number of combinations may be effected which will be well understood by
those acquainted with the manufacture of such fabric.

page_text: I will now proceed to describe the manner in which I produce according to the
present Invention guipure, which to the eye appears to be woven entirely of gold
threads (that is to say, in this case silk covered with gold wire), but which in
reality is composed partly of such gold threads and partly of ordinary threads of
cotton and silk. The manner of combining these threads in the fabric to produce
the desired effect is an important feature of the said Invention, and is effected as
follows, that is to say:-The fabric is woven with the same number of elements or
threads as are employed in weaving the ordinary plain guipure, namely, a straight
stretched warp, the bobbin warp which produces the pattern, and the weft, that
is to say, the bobbin threads which fix or fasten the interwoven parts by twisting.
But in the fabrics woven according to this Invention to present the appearance
of being all gold, these three elements or threads are each different from the other,
that is to say, the straight stretched warp is cotton, but the bobbin warp which
produces the pattern is composed of gold threads (silk thread covered with gold
thread or wire), and the bobbin or weft threads are silk dyed yellow. The
employment of this material and colour is of importance, for the reason that with
the gold threads it aids in covering and concealing the cotton threads. By these
means the gold threads only are apparent, and the effect is such that the fabric
seems to be entirely woven in gold.
It will be readily understood that this mixture of the metallic threads with the
other threads causes the fabric to retain all its flexibility, and the tendency to
stiffness caused by the introduction of the metal is corrected. The bobbin threads
of silk may be replaced by cotton threads.
The above description as to gold threads applies also to silver threads and
irisated or variegated metal threads and other metal threads which are capable of
being interwoven in the manner above described for the manufacture of guipure.
I may make the fabric with the metallic threads extending the whole width
thereof, or they may be divided or otherwise distributed according to the require-
ments of the design or pattern, or the like. In the same fabric both gold and
silver may be united.
This improved guipure may be employed for a variety of purposes, for instance,
it may be used for curtains, also in embroidery work, tapestry, wearing apparel,
theatrical costumes, church ornaments, articles of furniture, and the like.
In addition to the richness, brilliancy, and beauty imparted by the metal to
the said fabrics, they have this further advantage, namely, that they retain their
appearance without requiring to be washed.
It will be understood that I may use for the metallic thread a silk or similar
thread covered with metal thread or wire, or this metallic thread may be entirely
of metal.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said William Robert Lake in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 5th
June 1880.
WILLIAM ROBERT LAKE, of the Firm of Haseltine, Lake, & Co., Patent Agents,
Southampton Buildings, London. "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF
GUIPURE, CONSISTING PARTIALLY OF METALLIC THREAD." A communication
from abroad by Adolphe Casse, of Paris, France, Manufacturer.
Heretofore in the manufacture of guipure or gimp lace on the looms called
guipure looms, of which there are various kinds, threads of flax, cotton, silk, or the
like only have been used, that is to say, the threads have been either of vegetable
or animal origin. But according to the present Invention I considerably increase
the beauty and richness of such machine made guipures by introducing threads of
gold, silver, steel, or other suitable metal. The lustre of the metal adds to the
particular and distinctive effects of the openwork or other designs or patterns.
The interweaving of the metallic threads employed, as hereinafter described, in
combination with threads of flax, cotton, or silk requires no special arrangement
of the loom, whose construction and operation remain as heretofore when used in
the manufacture of guipure according to this Invention, but the employment of
the gold and silver threads enable me to produce fabrics of a different kind to any
heretofore obtained and of exceptionable beauty.
In manufacturing guipure according to this Invention, the interweaving or
intermixing of the metallic threads with the other threads may be effected in a
variety of manners. In some cases the fabric may be made almost entirely of the
metallic threads, and in other cases the proportion of such threads may be small.
In this manner a very great number of combinations may be effected which will
be well understood by those acquainted with the manufacture of such fabric.
I will now proceed to describe the manner in which I produce according to the
present Invention guipure, which to the eye appears to be woven entirely of gold
threads (or silk threads covered with gold wire), but which in reality is composed
partly of such gold threads and partly of ordinary threads of cotton and silk; tho
manner of combining these threads in the fabric to produce the desired effect is an
important feature of the said Invention, and is effected as follows, that is to say :-
The fabric is woven with the same number of clements or threads as are employed
in weaving the ordinary plain guipure, namely, a straight stretched warp, the
bobbin-warp which produces the pattern, and the weft, that is to say, the bobbin
threads which fix or fasten the interwoven parts by twisting or torsion. But in
the fabrics woven according to this Invention to present the appearance of being
all gold, these three elements or threads are each different from the other, that is to
say, the straight stretched warp is cotton, but the bobbin warp which produces the
pattern is composed of gold thread or silk thread covered with gold thread or wire,
and the bobbin or weft threads are silk dyed yellow. The employment of this kind
and color of thread for the weft is of importance, for the reason that with the
gold threads it assists in covering and concealing the cotton threads. By these
means the gold threads only are apparent, and the effect is such that the fabric
seems to be entirely woven in gold; this interweaving of the metallic threads
with the other threads does not affect the flexibility of the fabric, and the tendency
to stiffness caused by the introduction of the metal is corrected. The bobbin
threads of silk may be replaced by cotton threads.
The above description as to gold threads applies also to silver threads and
irisated or variegated metal threads, or other metal threads which are capable
of being interwoven in the manner above described for the manufacture of
guipure.

page_text: I may make the fabric with the metallic threads extending the whole width
thereof, or they may be divided into bands or otherwise distributed according to
the requirements of the design or pattern, or the like. In the same fabric both
gold and silver may be united.
This improved guipure may be employed for a variety of purposes, for instance,
it may be used for curtains, also in embroidery work, tapestry, wearing apparel,
theatrical costumes, church ornaments, articles of furniture, and the like.
In addition to the richness, brilliancy, and beauty imparted by the metal to the
said fabrics, they have this further advantage, namely, that they retain their
appearance without requiring to be washed or bleached.
It will be understood that I may use for the metallic thread a silk or similar
thread covered with metal thread or wire.
For commercial purposes I designate my improved metallic guipure by the name
of French guipure (guipure de France).
Having thus fully described the said Invention, as communicated to me by my
foreign correspondent, and the manner of performing the same, I wish it understood
that I claim,-
The manufacture of machine-made guipure by employing gold, silver, steel, or
other metal threads (or threads composed of fibrous material covered with metal)
in combination with cotton, silk, or similar threads, the metal or metal-covered
threads being preferably interwoven or intermixed with cotton threads forming the
straight warp, and with silk or cotton forming the weft or bobbin threads, as above
set forth.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Robert Lake, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Fourth day of June, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and eighty.