Improvements in or Additions to Dress Holders or Suspenders.
Year: 1891

page_text: Date of Application. 18th Apr. 1891
Complete Specification Left, 18th Jan., 1892-Accepted, 20th Feb., 1892
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in or Additions to Dress Holders or Suspenders.
1. PATRICK ALPHONSUS MARTIN of Great Charles Street, in the City of
Birmingham, Manufacturer do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be
as follows:-
This invention relates in the first part, to a combined dress holder or suspender,
and girdle, and in the second part, to an adjustable dress holder or suspender, alone
or in combination with a girdle.
In carrying out one form of my invention, in connection with a combined girdle
and dress holder, or suspender, of which the latter are adjustable, I proceed as
follows:-
take a single strand, length, or flexible cord, and coil the same about its middle
into a double coil, or into a girdle of two strands, and with the terminal ends of the
said strands, hanging or depending rearwardly, and to which ends, clips or gripping
means, which take hold of the dress, are attached. Directed around the double
strands, at their junctions with the free ends, are metal or other runner loops,
which keep the strands together, and by the change of their position around the
body of the girdle, the lengths of the ends are increased or decreased; or in other
words, the holder or suspender lengths, are lengthened or shortened, and the parts
of the dress to which the gripping devices are attached, are lifted or lowered.
Thus, in applying my new or improved adjustable girdle-dress holder or
suspender, to the wearer, draw out or expand the body encircling strands, then pass
the same around the girdle-stead part of the body, with the terminal ends hanging
rearwardly, or at the back. This done, contract the girdle strands around the said
part, when the suspender lengths, or terminal ends, are in positions, which allow the
dress to be in its normal condition, to wit, unraised. The runner loops are, when
the dress is in this position, at a considerable distance from each other, and with
the twice-round part of the strands, extending only up to the loops, leaving the
other and back part a single strand. To pick-up the dress at one side, or that
part to which the suspender is connected, slip the runner loop from front to rear,
when the suspender part of that loop is drawn in, hence the picking-up. The
running rearward of the other loop, acts in a like manner to the first.
To lower the dress to any position, run forward the loops, when the suspender
strands are paid-out, hence the lowering.
I propose that the said runner loops, which run or slide upon the twice-round
strands of the girdle part, should be of a spring character, which on being pressed
releases its grip upon the cords or strands, and so allows the same to be adjusted
rearward or forward, and retain the lengths in their adjusted positions.
As a further form of my invention, the girdle part may be made up of one, two,
three or other number of coils, with the inner end attached to the girdle-stead part
of the person, or to a band passing round the waist, whilst the outer end, which
haugs rearwardly, carries a clip or grip, and the junction of the said end with the
other coils of the girdle, has a runner or running loop, with or without an affixing
device.
Normally the end of the strand is connected to the dress when down, and in
order to pick up the same, the said strand end is contracted, by running the loop
rearwards, so that the further forward the said loop comes, the greater will be the
amount of length paid out, and rice-rerca.
Or the loops, instead of being runner ones, may be made fixed to the dress, or to
a band about the waist, so that the picking-up of a dress is performed, by the
rotation of the girdle part, which draws in, or pays out the strands.

page_text: Two or more such arrangements may be employed in conjunction one with
another.
To apply the girdle part of the combined waist encircler and holder or suspender,
instead of as in the first arrangement, the front part may be subdivided and
connected by an hook and eye or other fastener, so that the formation of a
combined article is such, that the strand first passes through one runner loop, then
to the front, and around a bar carried by a fastener, then back again, around to
the back, and then again to the front, over a second bar of the other part of the
fastener, and then again to the back, so that the runners when run to and fro pick
up or pay out the length.
In a coiled girdle part, the inner fixed part may remain constant, and the picking
up and paying out of the terminal end to entirely depend on the position of the
runner loop or loops.
As a still further form of my invention, the combined article may be made up of
two strands, coupled together at crossing points at back, and with fore parts or
fore ends, arranged to tie girdle-wise around the waist, while the other and back
ends carry clips or attachment ends, so that by the drawing forwardly, or releasing.
of one or other of the strands, the back end or ends are picked-up or paid-out.
As a further form of my invention, the girdle part may be made complete, without
connection to the running strand parts, other than by side loops or runners; so that
the fore and middle part of the strand, is pulled in or let out, hence the picking up
of the terminal ends which are directed at the back, or hang at the sides.
Although I have referred to the picking up being only at the front, yet I wish
it to be observed, that the same lifting means may be employed at the back.
The adjustment of the strand lengths according to the second part of my
invention, independent of the girdle or encircling part, is performed by the extreme
rear end of the strand, (of which the fore end is connected to a girdle, belt or the
dress at the waist part,) being connected and affixed to one end of a runner bar, having
a hole at its other end, wherethrough the other portion of the strand passes, and
forms between the said runner bar, and the return end, a noose, which is elongated
or contracted by the change of position of the runner bar, which securely grips the
strand in any position, by the angular movement which it makes to the strand,
consequent upon the weight of a dress pulling the same vertically downwards,
through the instrumentality of a grip or holder, which has a pulley upon it, hung
or taking from the lower end of the loop or noose as aforesaid, so that by changing
the position of the runner bar, the vertical length of the strand is increased or
diminished, and a dress held up, or let go.
The loop or noose may be provided with a top and bottom runner bar, so that at
the noose part, the strand arranges itself in triple order, with the top runner bar,
coupling the two outside strands, and the lower runner bar, the two inside strands, so
that by bringing the said runner bars nearer to, or further from each other, the
direct vertical length is diminished or increased.
This adjustable noose loop, adjusted by a runner bar in the second order, comes
mid-way between the ends of the strand, which constitutes the suspender. Instead
of strands, chains, filaments, or bands may be employed.
Dated this 17th day of Auril 1801

page_text: Improvements in or Additions to Dress Holders or Suspenders.
I, PATRICK ALPHONSUS MARTIN of Great Charles Street, in the City of
Birmingham, Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in
what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This invention relates to a combined dress holder or suspender, and girdle, and to
an adjustable dress holder or suspender, aloue, or in combination with, a girdle.
In carrying out one form of my invention, in connection with a combined girdle,
and dress holder or suspender, of which the latter are adjustable, I proceed as
follows:-
I take a single strand, length, or flexible cord, and coil the same about its middle
into a double coil, or into a girdle of two strande, and with the terminal ends of the
said strands, hanging or depending rearwardly, and to which ends, clips or gripping
means, which take hold of the dress, are attached. Directed around the double
strands, at their junctions with the free ends, are metal or other runner loops, which
keep the strands together, and by the change of their position around the body of
the girdle, the lengths of the ends are increased or decreased; or in other words
the holder or suspender lengths, are lengthened or shortened, and the parts of the
dress to which the gripping devices are attached, are lifted or lowered.
Thus, in applying my new or improved adjustable girdle-dress holder or
suspender, to the wearer, draw cut or expand the body encircling strands, then pass
the same around the girdle-stend part of the body, with the terminal ends hanging
rearwardly or at the back. This done, contract the girdle strands, around the said
part, when the suspender lengths, or terminal ends, are in positions which allow the
dress to be in its normal condition, to wit, un-raised. The runner loops are, when
the dress is in this position, at a considerable distance from each other, and with
the twice round part of the strands, extending only up to the loops, leaving the
other and back part a single strand. To pick up the dress at one side, or that part
to which the suspender is connected, slip the runner loop from front to rear, when
the suspender part of that loop is drawn in hence the picking up. The running
rearward of the other loop, acts in a like manner to the first.
To lower the dress to any position, run forward the loops, when the suspender
strands are paid out, hence the lowering.
I propose that the said runner loops, which run or slide upon the twice round
strands of the girdle part, should be of a gripping character, which on being pressed,
releases its grip upon the cords or strands, and so allows the same to be adjusted
rearward or forward, and retain the lengths in their adjusted positions.
As a further form of my invention, the girdle part may be made up of one, two,
three or other number of coils, with the inuer end attached to the girdle stead part
of the person, or to a band passing round the waist, whilst the outer end which
hangs rearwardly, carries a clip or grip, and the junction of the said end with the
other coils of the girdle, has a runner or running loop, with or without an affixing
device.
Normally the end of the strand is connected to the dress when down, and in
order to pick up the same, the said strand end is contracted, by running the loop
rearwards, so that the further forward the said loop comes, the greater will be the
amount of length paid out, and vice-versa. Or the loops, instead of being runner
ones, may be made fixed to the dress, or to a band about the waist, so that the
picking up of a dress is performed, by the rotation of the girdle-part, which draws
in or pays out the strands.
Two or more such arrangements may be employed in conjunction one with
another.

page_text: To apply the girdle part of the combined waist encircler and holder or suspender,
instead as in the first arrangement, the front part may be subdivided and connected
by an hook and eye or other fastener, so that the formation of a combined article
is such that the strand first passes through one runner loop, then to the front, and
around a bar carried by a fastener, then back again around to the back, and then
again to the front, over a second bar of the other part of the fastener, and then
again to the back so that the runners, when run to and fro, pick up or pays out the
lengths.
In a coiled girdle part, the inner fixed part may remain constant, and the picking
up and paying out of the terminal end to entirely depend on the position of the
runner loop or loops.
As a still further form of my invention, the combined article may be made up of
two strands, coupled together at crossing points at back, and with fore parts or
fore ends arranged to tie girdle wise around the waist, while the other and back
ends carry clips or attachment ends, so that by the drawing forwardly or releasing
of one or other of the strands, the back end or ends are picked up or paid out.
As a further form of my invention, the girdle part may be made complete,
without connection to the running strand parts, other than by side loops or runners:
so that the fore and middle part of the strand is pulled in or let out, hence the
picking up of the terminal ends, which are directed at the back or hang at the
sides.
Although I have referred to the picking up being only at the back, yet I wish
it to be observed, that the same lifting means may be employed at the front or
■ides.
IL
The adjustment of the strand lengths according to the second part of my invention,
independent of the girdle or encircling part, is performed by the extreme rear end
of the strand, of which the fore end is connected to a girdle, belt, or the dress at
the waist part, being connected and affixed to one end of a runner bar, having
hole at its other end, wherethrough the other portion of the strand passes, and
forms between the said runner bar, and the return end, a noose, which is elongated
or contracted by the change of position of the runner bar, which securely grips the
strand in any position, by the angular movement which it makes to the strand,
consequent upon the weight of a dress pulling the same vertically downwards,
through the instrumentality of a grip or holder, which may have a pulley upon it,
hung or taking from the lower end of the loop or noose as aforesaid, so that by
changing the position of the runner bar, the vertical length of the strand is increased
or diminished, and a dress held up or let go.
Instead of strands, chains, filaments, or bands, may be employed.
Figure 1 of the accompanying drawings, represents a ladies' dress suspender, or a
dress elevator, or a combined dress suspender and girdle, constructed, arranged and
fitted, according to one form of my invention.
Figure 2 represents the three-eyed runner part, which is traversed to and fro
upon the girdle strand and suspender strand respectively, for the drawing in or
paying out, or shortening or lengthening the said suspender strands, as hereinafter
described.
Figure 3 represents an edge view of Figure 2.
is a girdle strand, and 6, are suspender strands, united at their back ends le, é
respectively, to the inner end of the girdle strand a. The combined ends a², of
the said girdle, and the ends #2, 4, of the suspender strands or lengths, e, are united
or coupled together by a fastener A, consisting of a bar d, attached to one of
the combined end- taking through a loop, formed at the ether combined ends.
The forward parts of the suspender strands, hang or depend downwardly,
and are terminated by dress gripping or holding attachments, which are lifted
or lowered, and the dress to which they are connected elevated or lowered,
according to the requirements of the wearer.
The said girdle strand is connected to the suspender strands, by three-eyed-
runners h.

page_text: The girdle strand is threaded through top eyes or holes g, h, of the said runners,
while the suspender strands are threaded through single holes g. 42 of them, and
which runners constitute means for holding the suspender strands in their adjusted
positions.
Connected to the runners are tassels, g, h³, for taking hold of, when the same
require to be run or traversed backwards or forwards, over the strands constituting
the dress suspending and elevating appliance.
In use, pass the girdle part of the appliance around the waist, and secure the
same at the front by the fastening means A, which may be adjustable, as herein-
after described or otherwise, and with the suspender lengths, with their adjuncts.
hanging down at the back or side of the person, and gripping parts of a dres-,
at points required to be lifted.
To raise or lift a dress or parts thereof, pull the runners round by the tassels, in
the direction of the dotted arrows, when the said runners are made to approach
each other, and draw in the suspender lengths to a desired extent, or to an extent
consistent with the girth of the girdle.
To lower the dress, run the said runners backwards in the directions indicated by
the full arrows, when the parts will be paid out, until the runners approach the
extreme front of the girdle part upon which they ran.
Instead of the fastening means being at the front, it may be at the back, and the
suspender or running out lengths in any position, and to any number as may be
desired.
Thus, the suspender or running out strands may be in double order, in which
case, each of the runners have an extra eye or hole, wherethrough the additional
suspender lengths pass, alike as already described.
Figure represents an adjustable fastening, for securing the said appliance
around different sized girdle-steads
In this arrangement a, a, are the ends of the girdle strand, and
are the
front ends of the suspender or runner strands b, c. The former ends pass through
holes of respective runners, whilst the ends of the latter pass through
holes of the said respective runners i, .
,
The runner or sliding attachment i, carries a loop, whilst the other sliding
attachment, carries a tongue P, which takes into the loop.
To adjust the girdle part of the appliance to the girdle stead of a person run
the sliding attachments i, i, forwards or backwards to the extent desired, when the
strands are held in the positions adjusted. Then pass the tongue, through the
loop or eye i', hence the connection of the adjusted girdle part of the appliance
around the waist of a person.
Figure 5 represents a combined band and suspender length, and with the latter
wound spirally around the former, which is adapted to comprehend the girdle stead
part of a person when in use.
The runner part, by means of which the paid out length is affixed in any adjusted
position, takes upon the two lower adjacent strands, if the said strands be three or
four times wound, and upon two strands when twice wound only.
The band part of the appliance, which is the carrier for the suspender strand, in
capable of being pulled round in a traversing mauner, the said girdle stead of a
person, so as to bring the depending length of the suspender strand in any position
as may be desired.
a is a band, and is a dress holder length, and shown running two and a half
times around the said band, and with the one end affixed to the band, and the other
end depending downwards, and terminated by a gripping device e.
g is a three eyed runner, with the two lower coils of the strand passing through
holes of it as represented. ³ is a tassel attached to the said runner, which on
being traversed in one or other direction, is made to pick up or pay out the said
strand length.
Thus, the traversing of the runner from left to right, increases the distance

page_text: between it, and the gripping means, hence the lowering of a dress to a part of which
the said gripping means is attachedly connected.
The band ends are connected by any suitable means.
To pay out the whole of the strand, the band is turned bodily around the waist
of a person, and the summer made to traverse in a reverse direction at the same
time.
The strand end may have two or more branched lengths,
Figure 6 represents another form of my invention, consisting of a combined band
and two suspender lengths, fixedly connected at the front part, and provided with
two eyed clip runners, through the eyes of which, the strands as aforesaid pass,
whilst the runners slide upon the band.
are
is a band connected at front by a buckle a', or by other suitable meaus,
strand suspender lengths, connected at the fore ends at 8, to the said front part of
the belt, and with the middle parts of them passing through eyes g', of runner loops g
and with the back terminal ends 2 of the said strands, depending downwards, and
terminated by, or carrying dress gripping means.
By the traversing of the runners or slides upon the band, the lengths,, are
paid out, or drawn in, according to the relative positions of the said runners, with
respect
to the back of the band, belt, girdle or equivalent.
Figure 7 represents a medified form of the device Figure 6.
a is a band or girdle strand, and b, c, are suspender strands or lengths, disposed
back and front, or upon the two opposite sides of the said band or girdle strand.
,, are the terminal ends of the said suspender strands, which are terminated by
holders or dress gripping means e. are runners or slides, embracing the band or
girdle, and with the outer parts of the said suspender strands, passed or threaded
through them, and which runners may be of a spring or other type, in order that
the same may grip upon the band and strand, to retain the end lengths of them to
any adjusted positions to which they may have been brought.
To pay out or shorten the strands, traverse the runners in the required directions,
hence the picking up or paying out of the suspender lengths.
In this form of my invention, a dress may be only picked up at the back, or at
one side as may be required, or a dress may be picked up at both back and front,
and at both sides, according to the dispositions of the suspender lengths.
Figure 8 represents another form of my invention, and consists essentially of the
employment of suspender lengths which are made to constitute both the strands or
depending ends, and also the girdle part.
of
Thus, c, are strands or lengths passing at their rear parts, through a runner,
and with their hanging ends terminated by clips e, while the front parts b, c,
the said strands or lengths are tied at h. Thus a combined dress holder and girdle
is made, and length of the depending ends lengthened or shortened by the taking in
paying out, and retying of the front ends.
or
igure 9 represents a like device as in Figure 8, other than the employment of a
single strand instead of two. Thus is a strand or length, which is adapted to pass
around the waist of a person, and the front ends, of which, are tied at h, whilst
the rear parts of it are passed through a runner, and the remaining parts hanging
downwards, and being provided with a dress clip.
By the untying of the part h, and the drawing in or letting out of the sides of the
Strands, the length of the part is regulated according to the requirements &
to the picking up or letting down of the part of a dress.
Figure 10 represents another form of my invention.
In this arrangement the suspender strands or lengths are tied around the waist
band, and are guided through fittings, which come at the back of the said band,
whilst the back terminal parts of the strands are terminated by loops, wherethrough
running lengths having dress gripping means pass, as represented at Figure 11.
a is a belt or band, connected at front a¹, by a buckle or other connecting means,
and, e, are suspender lengths or strands encircling or passing around the said band

page_text: or belt, and having their front ends b', e¹, tied, according to the height to which the
back ends, which pass through guides . are to be lifted or lowered.
The guide fittings, are enected, or ar jointed to the band by car or other
connections g'.
The terminal ends
of the strands, have looped ends, with the end of
marked (see Figure 11), and through which loop, a runner length k, terminated
and
holding
by dress gripping
means passes,
By arranging the said back ends as described, a dress may have its connection
with the suspender strands made at two, four, or other number of points.
To lift a dress, tie in the fore part of the strands, when the distance between the
ends of and c, with respect to the band or belt, is lessened.
On the other hand, the letting out of the tied parts, increases the distance of the
parts as aforesaid.
I may observe that the one strand, may be drawn in, or let out to a greater or
less extent than that of the other, or rire rered.
Figure 12 represents a further form of my invention. In this arrangement, the
strands only depend from the band or girdle, or from runners capable of sliding or
traversing upon them.
A dress is picked up or lowered by the change of position of a runner bar, which
connects the end of the strand with the middle or other part of it.
Thus, a is a belt, band or its equivalent, and, is a depending suspender strand
or length, connected at its upper end to a running loop g, whilst its other end,
is connected to one end &, of a runner bar, and with the other end provided with a
running hole wherethrough the middle part of the strand or length & passes, b, is
a tassel for taking hold of the said runner bar, and e is a dress grip or holder.
By taking hold of the tassel, and bringing the plane of the runner bar at right
angles to the depending length, the end can be returned more or less upon
the part, hence the shortening or lengthening of the said strand, according to
the position of the runner bar.
By the releasing of the runner bar by loosing the tassel, when a weight is upon
the suspender, the runner bar is made to take an angle with re-pect to the same
hence the holding of the strand in an adjusted position.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is:-
First A dress suspender or dress elevator, or a combined dress suspender and
girdle, consisting of a girlle or band part, with runner or running and adjustable
elevator strand lengths or parts, substantially as described and set forth.
Secondly In a dress suspender, or a combined dress suspender and girdle, the
paying out and drawing in of suspender lengths or strands, by traversing or
adjustable runners, which by their change of position, adjust the lengths of the
depending parts of the suspender strands or lengths, and un-paid out parts of the
said lengths, respectively, substantially as described and set forth in Figure 1.
Thirdly In a dress suspender or a combined dress suspender and girdle,
combining with the same, of three-eyed runners, loops, or their equivalents, which
connect together the strands or parts forming the said appliance, affix the adjustable
parts of the same in position, and form traversing parts for adjustment, as set forth
in Figures 1, 2, and 3.
Fourthly In a dress suspender or a combined dress suspender and girdle,
adjusting the length of girdle, band, or other like strand, and also the suspender
strands, by runners or connections i, ♬ substantially as described and set forth in
Figure 4.
Fifthly In a combined dress suspender and waist band or girdle, coiling or
evolving a single or double suspender length spirally around a band or girdle, and
with the one end attached to the said band or girdle, and the other end free for
adjustment, which is performed by a runner loop, which embraces the part of the

page_text: strand being paid out and drawn in, and the part of the strand adjacent to it, as
described and set forth in Figure 5.
Sixthly In a combined dress suspender and waist band or girdle, combining
with the same, runner strands or suspender lengths, having one of their ends
attachedly connected to the said articles, and the other end free, and passing through
eyes or holes of, or connected with traversing runners or runner loops, and which
parts are arranged and combined and pick-up and pay out the suspender lengths as
described and set forth in Figure 6.
:
Seventhly In a combined dress suspender and girdle, or waist band employing
in connection with the same, free ended runner or suspender lengths, controlled_and
coupled together by traversing runners or clips, substantially as described and set
forth in Figure 6.
:-
Eighthly In a combined dress suspender and girdle, making up the same of
two lengths or strands, made adjustable by tying, and coupled together at near the
terminal ends, which constitute the hanging or suspender lengths, by a connection g,
wherethrough the strands are threaded or passed, substantially as described and set
forth in Figure 8.
Ninthly In a combined dress suspender and girdle, making up the same from
a single length or strand, arranged combined, combined and adjusted, as set forth in
Figure 9.
:-
:
Tenthly In a combined dress suspender and girdle, or band, the construction
and arrangement of the parts, with fittings, as described and set forth in Figure 11.
Eleventhly In a dress suspender, combining with a band or girdle, with or
without traversing loops, or runners, of adjustable suspender lengths, provided
with fittings, and applied in manner, substantially as described and set forth in
Figure 12.
Twelfthly In combined dress holders or suspenders and girdle, and adjustable
dress holders or suspenders arranged, combined, operated and fitted for the purposes
substantially as described and set forth in the several figures of the drawings.
Dated this 16th day of January 1892.
PATRICK ALPHONSUS MARTIN,
By Henry Skerrett,
, Livery Street, Birmingham, Agent for Applicant.
PATRICK ALPHONSUS MARTIN,
By Henry Skerrett,
, Livery Street, Birmingham, Agent for Applicant.