IMPROVEMENTS IN EMBROIDERING ADDADAMING EMPLOYED THEREFOR
Year: 1869

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to James Pritchard, Manufacturer, and John Collins,
Machinist, both of the City of Glasgow, in the County of Lanark,
North Britain, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN EMBROIDERING
ADDADAMING EMPLOYED THEREFOR."
Sealed the 10th June 1870, and dated the 22nd December 1869.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said James Pritchard and
John Collins at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with
their Petition, on the 22nd December 1869.
We, JAMES PRITCHARD, Manufacturer, and JOHN COLLINS, Machinist,
both of the City of Glasgow, in the County of Lanark, North Britain, do
hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
EMBROIDERING OR SEWING, AND IN THE MACHINERY OR APPARATUS EMPLOYED
THEREFOR," to be as follows, that is to say :-
This said Invention has reference mainly to certain new or improved
constructions and arrangements of parts of the machines used for sewing
or embroidering muslins or other fabrics, that is, the machines in which
the sewing or pattern is produced by sets of needles of the ordinary
sewing class, or needles with double points, one at each end, with the
A

page_text: .
eye in the centre, which are passed right through the fabric, each with
a single or double thread of like length attached to the cloth at one end
and to the eye of the needle at the other, all the needles being
simultaneously pushed, caught, and drawn right through the fabric
by the usual traversing needle carrying carriages or frames; or it may
be by the traversing to and fro of the fabric being sewn and its carrying
frame between the said needle holding frames, which would in this case
be stationary, and all with the object of producing or manufacturing
such woven or ornamental fabrics in a more satisfactory and economical
manner by the more perfect automatic action of the main movements
.and mechanism of the said machines, so as to enable them to be driven
by motive power from a single first motion shaft instead of by the
application and use of manual power to these several main initial
movements requiring much and constant attention on the part of the
attendants in the working of these machines as heretofore constructed.
The first part or improvement of this said Invention consists in
causing the tension of the threads at the latter part of their tightening
and straightening action (irrespective of the various positions of the
thread carrying frame caused by the shortening of the thread at every
stitch) on both sides of the fabric to reverse the motion of the receding
and drawing for the time being of the threads, whether that is done by
the needle carriage or the fabric frame, which is made to pull the
threads tight after every stitch of passing the needles through the fabric;
and one mode of effecting this part of the Invention by the said improved
means or apparatus, as applied to the class of sewing embroidery machines
in which the fabric to be treated is carried and stretched on and between
a top and bottom roller in a vertical plane and frame moved transversely
and vertically by any of the usual balanced, parallel, and pentagraphic
mechanical motions or arrangements for that purpose in the centre of
the machine, between two horizontal traversing needle holding and
drawing carriages or frames, one on each side, traversed back and
forward from and towards the fabric one after the other alternately by
two central transverse shafts turned in reverse directions, one for each
on each side of the fabric, having notched or pitched pulleys at each side
of the machine, which by corresponding pitch chains or straps passed
over them and corresponding pulleys at the outer extremity of the
traverse of the carriages to which the chains or straps are attached, so as
to move them to and fro in the proper direction and time in accordance
with and determined by the motion of their respective actuating shafts,

page_text: is by making the drawing, bending, and surging motion or action
imparted to the fabric by the strain and tightening action of the last
part of the motion in drawing through the row of threads to tilt a light
lever, as by preference acting on the vertical arm of a bell-crank lever,
so as to cause the horizontal arm carrying a pall catch to fall into a
ratchet wheel on the said actuating transverse shaft of the receding
carriage in motion at the time, or instead of the catch or pall and ratchet
wheel the arm of the lever might carry an angle toothed or screw rack,
made to fall into a skew spur wheel or screw, or other equivalent
arrangement, all so that the positive powerful motion of the actuating
transverse shaft and momentum of the receding carriage in being
stopped at its extreme backward traverse, would give to the strong lever
or bar carrying the tilting light pall lever sufficient force to cause it to
disengage or uncouple the one end of a duplex actuating clutch, and at
the same time tilt a reversing lever, such as usually employed for such
purposes, loaded by a spring or weight, which would then come into force
and reverse the clutch, and throw it into gear with the coupling or
clutch box at the other end, so as to reverse the motion of the actuating
transverse spindle, and then bring the carriage and needles back up to
the fabric otherwise much in a usual manner, the first motion clutch
shaft being actuated by a belt and fast and loose pulley from any
adjacent prime mover (or it may be by other equivalent or ordinary driving
gear) is placed and revolves in bearings in the centre between the two
transverse actuating shafts, which are actuated in reverse directions by
the spur wheels on the two loose running clutch boxes having the reversing
central duplex clutch sliding on a feather between them, each wheel
gearing into corresponding loose wheels and clutch boxes on the outer
ends of the transverse shafts, an intermediate wheel being used between
the one first motion clutch wheel and the wheel on one of the clutches
on one of the transverse shafts for reversing the motion of these shafts.
Another part or improvement of this said Invention consists in
causing the direct forward motion and momentum of the carriages as
they come up to force the needles through the fabric into the needlė
holding clips or nippers of the carriage on the opposite side of the
fabric, or the motion of one of the loose actuating and clutch wheels
on the carriage driving shafts to raise and tilt a reversing spring or
weight loaded lever, which would disengage the said couplings of the
transverse shaft alternately as the carriages come up to the fabric, and

page_text: then reverse or push the usual long transverse central bar near the
floor to the one side, which would then otherwise disengage all the
needles on the one side and carriage, and cause them to be caught on
the other side and carriage, all by any of the usual modes and means
heretofore in use, and finally throws in the clutch of the actuating
transverse shaft of the carriage which had just received the needles
through the fabric on the opposite side of the machine, so that it would
then start and recede from the fabric, so as to tighten up the threads on
that side, which tightening of the threads on that side at their extreme
outward traverse would reverse this needle carriage by the shifting of
the first motion clutch of the central shaft, all as described in reference
to the carriage on the other side, and the extreme inward motion of this
carriage or the motion of its own driving clutch wheels (as it reached
the fabric and delivers the needles through the cloth into the carriage
on the other side) will throw its own clutch out of gear and release the
needles from its own nippers and insert the coupling of the frame which
has received the needles on the other side, all as described in reference to
the like motions of the opposite and former carriage by the use and
action of the tilting, loaded, and reversing lever. One mode of con-
structing and actuating this improved lever mechanism for automatically
stopping the approaching carriage and slackening its nippers and needles,
and then disengaging the nipper and needle releasing mechanism of the
opposite carriage (so as to let the individual nippers and their springs
grasp the needles inserted into them) and finally start it and its actuating
transverse shaft by inserting its actuating clutch, consists of a duplex
lever by preference, both turning loose in a transverse vertical plane
on one stud and bracket placed near the actuating gear and clutches,
one of the levers being actuated either by the last part of the inward
motion of the carriage or by a screw on a short transverse spindle
working into a segmental rack on the end of the lever. Motion is given
to the screw spindle by a spur wheel fixed on it gearing into one of the
wheels of the loose couplings of the transverse actuating shafts of the
carriages, all so that the positive motion of the said lever (imparted to
it by the carriage or screw) in turning by a pin or other equivalent
acting on end stops or a segmental slot, or a slotted link, or like
connection to the other tilting lever loaded with a spring or weight
would turn or bring it up to the self-turning line or point, where it
would then by the power of a spring or weight tilt over and cause its
lower arm, by preference also connected by a slotted connection, to so

page_text: shift the before-mentioned bar and the levers respectively of the slack-
ening and gripping mechanism of the nippers and needles, and the
couplings of the transverse shafts, the one set of each carriage out and
the other into gear, all substantially to produce the motions required, as
herein-before described. The latter part of the motion of the approaching
carriage from either side before stopping at the fabric is made to put
the segment of the intermittent positive acting lever into gear with
the screw or skew wheel (whichever is used) either by pushing the
teeth of the segment up into gear with the thread of the screw or teeth
of the wheel, or by lowering these into the teeth of the segment, all
so as to set on and give the tilting action on either side, as before
described.. The length and traverse of the motion of these tilting and
actuating levers and their different arms and slots are all made to suit
(as any practical machinist understands how to do) to engage and dis-
engage the respective parts in the proper sequential time, and give the
slight "dwell" or pause found desirable between their performances
for the particular class of work or sewing being done and the quickness
or speed the machine may be able to be driven at to suit the said work,
so as to give time for stopping and steadying the motion and momentum
of the carriages and other parts, and enable them to be locked and
unlocked, and for changing and fixing the sets of needles before starting.
the receding carriage. Instead of the said duplex intermittent tilting
and reversing lever arrangement an. intermittent revolving shaft may
be employed, by preference arranged vertically, and. actuated at top
by a friction or toothed pinion on the first motion. shaft,. or on an.
intermediate shaft worked from. it, or one of the before-named transverse.
shafts, the said pinion being geared into a corresponding double or single
segmental wheel on the vertical shaft (according as it is made to revolve
in one direction or be reversed, which would reverse the transverse bar
and other parts before named by a crank or cam on its lower end, and
then stand or be held still by a spring catch or other equivalent after
every reversing of the parts and between the segments of the wheel,
which would be put into gear again from the opposite alternate sides.
by the latter part of the motion of the carriage approaching the fabric..
By these improvements also the carriage as it is brought up to the fabric
and stopped is locked in the usual and other equivalent manner (so as
to be stationary while the opposite carriage is traversed and re-delivering
the noedles to it), the locking mechanism being released by the improved
tilting lever just before coupling and starting it for its next receding

page_text: traverse after it has received and caught the needles and is ready for so
doing. Although under the first improvement the strain on and
bending of the fabric has been described for shifting the pall lever into
gear to cause the positive backward motion of the carriage to stop and
reverse itself and the first motion driving clutch and gear, yet still it
will be evident that the strain upon the threads may also at the last
part of their traverse (forming a main improvement in this Invention)
be made to do the same through the rising and tightening, or straining
and straightening of the row of threads against a bar or lever, so as to
throw an actuating pall into gear, or otherwise the strain of the thread
may be made to move the middle holding bar against the power of a
spring, which could be regulated to yield and give the necessary motion
at the proper time to reverse the motion of the gearing and carriages.
And although the traversing motion and momentum of the carriages
have been described as giving the tension to the threads, and for giving
the initial movement of these improvements and mechanism, yet in
sewing machines where the cloth frame is made the traversing carriage
to tighten the threads, then in such cases its traversing motion and mo-
mentum may, by these improvements, be made to perform the motions
and purposes described as derived from those of the needle carriages.
Another part or improvement of this said Invention consists in the
use of a series or line of pointed and tapered double edge knives or
outters or piercers, ranged at suitable distances apart, equal or corre-
sponding to the distances between the holes to be pierced in the centre
of the holes or hollow patterns, being sewed at the time all round by
the needles, which as well as the knives are ranged in a row across the
fabric, one to each pattern and hole. Each knife is carried by pre-
ference by a round stem at its rear end in one of a range of holes in a
long transverse bar, or in short shifting and swivelling bosses or sockets,
and fixed to the said bar at the proper angle and distances apart at
which the holes have to be cut by pinching screws or other equivalent
fastening. The sharp points of these knives project out towards the
fabric, each exactly opposite one of a row of holes formed in a
stationary bar fixed at the two ends to the main side standards of the
machine on the opposite side of the fabric, so as to sustain it as a
"bolster" or die all round each hole while being pierced or cut. The
bar thus fitted with the knives is carried in bearing slides in one of the
needle carriages, by preference at some distance below the needle bar,

page_text: and fitted so as to slide and be forced out towards the fabric to any
desired distance in a parallel manner by the turning of duplex cranks,
eccentrics, cams, or levers coupled to the bar and to each other by a
link rod or spindle, one near each end or opposite side of the machine,
which through the motion of a simple rod or hand lever by the
attendant would be forced through the cloth to the desired distance
necessary to produce the size of hole required, the piercers or knives
being tapered wide behind, so as to produce the various sizes of holes
or slits according to the distance they are forced through the cloth.
This distance is regulated by setting stops or screw. studs in the guide
brackets of the bar which is pushed until it comes up to them, these
stops being previously set to suit the pattern being sewed. The piercing
or cutting of the holes is done while all the other moving parts of the
mechanism are at rest, and the pattern frame set by the pentagraph to
the proper position opposite the knives or piercers and the carriage
carrying them is set near the fabric by the simple action of a hand
lever, which on being again reversed draws back the knives and knife
bar out of the way below the needle bar, all so that the fabric can
again be raised to its sewing position opposite the needles and the
machine set on again with little stoppage or intermission of its sewing
action.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said James Pritchard and John Collins in the Great
Scal Patent Office on the 21st June 1870.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, JAMES.
PRITCHARD, Manufacturer, and JOHN COLLINS, Machinist, both of the
City of Glasgow, in the County of Lanark, North Britain, send...
greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by. Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Twenty-second day of December, in the.
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-nine, in the
thirty-third year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors,.,
give and grant unto us, the said James Pritchard and John Collins, Her,
special licence that we, the said James Pritchard and John Collins, our
executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as we, the said
James Pritchard and John Collins, our executors, administrators, and.

page_text: assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to
time and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should
and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United
Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle
of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN EMBROIDERING OR SEWING, AND
IN THE MACHINERY OR APPARATUS EMPLOYED THEREFOR," upon the condition
(amongst others) that we, the said James Pritchard and John Collins,
our executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under our,
or their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and
ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same
was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal
Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the
date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that we, the said James Pritchard and John Collins,
do hereby declare the nature of our said Invention, and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascer-
tained in and by the following statement in writing, reference being had
to the accompanying Drawings, and to the letters and numerals marked
thereon, that is to say :-
Our said Invention has reference mainly to certain new or improved
constructions and arrangements of parts of the machines used for sewing
or embroidering muslins or other woven or web fabrics, that is, the
machines in which the sewing or pattern is produced by sets or rows
of needles of the ordinary sewing class, or more generally having a point
at each end with the eye in the middle, which are passed right through 2
the fabric in sets, each needle being threaded with a single or double
thread of equal length attached to the cloth at one end and to the eye
of the needle at the other, all the needles being simultaneously pushed,
caught, and drawn right through the fabric by the usual traversing
needle carrying carriages or frames, or it may be by the traversing to 3
and fro of the fabric being sewn and its carrying frame between the said
needle holding frames, which would in this case be stationary, and
particularly to new arrangements of mechanism applied to the primary
moving parts of these machines whereby they are made to produce or
manufacture such sewed or embroidered ornamental woven fabrics in a 3
more satisfactory and economical manner than heretofore, by the more
perfect, regular, or sequential, and automatic action of the said main
movements and mechanism of these machines which are thus enabled by

page_text: these new connecting and automatic parts to be driven by motive power
from a single first motion revolving shaft instead of by the application
and use of manual power applied to the several main initial movements
at respective times, requiring much and constant attention on the
part of the attendants in the working of these machines, as heretofore
constructed.
And in order that our said Invention and the manner of performing
the same may be properly understood, we shall now proceed to describe
the several explanatory Figures on the Sheet of Drawings which we
have hereunto appended for the purpose of shewing the nature of our
said Invention and the best modes and means we are at present aware of
for performing or carrying it into effect or practice, the same reference
letters and numerals indicating the same or equivalent or like parts in
all the Figures, that is to say:-
Figure 1 is a side elevation of an ordinary sewing embroidering
machine (with a great part of the centre of the machine and fabric
broken away) showing its usual two end frames and end parts of the
long transverse web frame, shafts, needle carriages, rails, and their
actuating, traversing, and needle loosening and fixing mechanism, all
sufficient to illustrate one modification of our improvements and
Invention shown as applied thereto mainly and particularly at the
left-hand driving gearing end of the machine; and Figure 2 is a
sectional end elevation of the same machine taken on the line a, a, in
Figure 1, to which it corresponds. Figures 3 and 4 are sectional plans
of the left-hand driving gearing end of the same machine taken on the
lines b, b, and c, c, in Figures 1 and 2 respectively, and to which they
correspond; and Figures 5 to 13 are detached sectional views of various
combined parts of the mechanism and improvements to show the
construction and action more clearly than seen in the combined or
general views, Figures 1 to 4, to which, however, they all correspond.
Referring to the usual parts and construction of this ordinary embroidery
machine shown, as stated in these Figures 1 to 4 inclusive, to which
our improvements are shown as applied. The fabric A, A, to be treated
is stretched on and between the top and bottom rollers A¹, A', fixed and
carried on the upper and lower parts of the wooden frame A² opposite
the two rows of threads B, B¹, and their needles C, C¹, the frames A³
being moved and guided in a transverse and vertical plane by the fixed
vertical studs D and guides D' attached to the upper and lower corners

page_text: of the frame A² carried by the hanging brackets and guides D' rolling
on the rollers D" carried on the free end of the balanced weighted levers
D³, one at each end of the frame A³, which is actuated by any of the
usual balanced pentagraphic mechanical motions and arrangements
employed, the moveable and fixed ends E, E', of which one is (shown
only in Figures 1 and 2) attached to the frame A' and the upper fixed
beam rail F* of the main side frame F, F¹, of the machine, the fixed
fulcrums of the two weighted levers D³ being carried in the brackets D
attached to the strong rail F. The frame A' and its two webs being
thus as usual traversed to suit the pattern to be sewn in a central
vertical plane below the rail Fs by a boy or girl at the hand lever and
pointer of the pentagraph at every stitch and traverse of the needles C, C
and their two horizontal traversing, holding, and drawing carriages or
frames G, G¹, one on each side of the fabric A, from and to which they
are each traversed one after the other alternately on their rolling wheels G
and rails G fixed to the said frames F, F, and actuated by the two
long transverse shafts H, H', placed a little on each side of the fabric A
and centre frame A', each put in motion and turned in reverse directions,
when their respective carriages G, G³, are to be traversed back and
forward, all respectively and alternately by the new or improved first
motion and automatic mechanism in the direction indicated by the red
and black arrows (in Figure 2), which movements and mechanism will
be herein-after described. A single first motion revolving shaft actuates
the various improved self-acting mechanisms governed so as to come
into action at the proper relative or sequential time by initial and
governing motions taken from the main ordinary reciprocating parts of
the machine itself, on which depends (or which determines) the time of
the changes being required, and which self-acting mechanical arrange-
ments form the improvements of our said Invention. The shafts H and
H have each a plain broad scroll band pulley I keyed on them near
each end frame F, F, with a band I passed a few turns round each
in the manner of a spiral or scroll, and round a single grooved reverse
pulley I carried on studs and fixed brackets at I" at the outer ends of
the frames F, F, the ends of the bands I' being attached to ratchet
tightening wheels I' on studs fixed to the sides G³ of the traversing
carriages G, G³, all so as to actuate them in the direction the
shafts H, H', are driven, as before referred to, and indicated by the
arrows in Figures 2, 5, and 6. Although we have described and prefer
the actuating of the carriages G, G, by the scroll pulleys and bands I, I,

page_text: yet still they may be actuated by notched or pitched pulleys and
corresponding pitch chains, or strong straps or bands passed over these
and the corresponding pulleys at the outer extremity of the traverse on
the side frames F, F', as heretofore, or other equivalent band mechanism
may be employed when preferred.
The first main part or improvement of our said Invention consists in
causing the tension of the set of threads, or a portion of them, at the
latter part of their tightening and straightening action (irrespective
of the various positions of the thread-carrying frame caused by the
shortening of the threads at every stitch) on both sides of the fabric to
automatically reverse the motion of the receding and drawing motion
mechanism for the time being of the threads (whether that is done by the
needle carriage or the fabric frame), and the arrangement of mechanism
employed to effect this at the proper time when the threads and stitches
have been pulled to their proper tightness after every passage of the
needles through the fabric. The two rows or sets of needles C, O¹, are
held in their grippers or holders C³, secured to the upper and lower
rails O carried by the bracket G of the carriage G, G, and are
slacked and tightened by the turning of the long transverse eccentric or
ridged bars C by the turning of the vertical spindle C and their skew
or angled spur wheels c, actuated by the open fork levers C' at their
lower ends, which take or couple on to the vertical studs K on the
reciprocating rod K' actuated near the floor by the link K' and lever K"
and stud K³ working into the heart cam K on the lower end of the
vertical spindle L (seen in Figures 1 and 3), half a turn of which and
the cam K would loosen the sets of needles C¹ in either of the car-
riages G or G' when it comes up to the fabric A, and push them through
it into the grippers C³ of the carriage G³ or G on the other side, and
tighten them up at the same time, all so far by the ordinary means
heretofore used, except that instead of this slacking and fixing of the.
needles in the opposite carriages being done by the hands or feet of an
attendant at the proper times this regular and necessary intermittent.
half revolution of the heart cam spindle is effected by another improve-,
ment or part of our said Invention by a movement taken from the first
motion shaft governed or put in action automatically by the last part of
the motion and momentum of the carriage approaching the fabric before
it is stopped and locked, and which said automatic mechanism for
stopping and locking the cam spindle and carriages also forms another

page_text: improvement of our said Invention, and which we shall herein-after
describe. The said first motion shaft 1 is actuated from any convenient
motion shaft by the belt 1' and fast and loose pulleys 1³, 1", in the
direction indicated by the arrows on the pulleys, by preference at a speed
of from twenty-five to thirty-five revolutions per minute, and so as to
produce from six to ten stitches or double average length traverses of the
needle carriages por minute, so as to allow time for starting and stopping
the momentum of the carriages G and G¹ and the other moving parts.
The shaft 1 revolves in bearing brackets 2 secured to the portable new
rectangular frame 3 in the centre line of the machine carrying the
driving and reversing gearing below and between the supplementary
short shaft h, h³, which are continuations of the long shafts H, H¹, at
the driving end of the machine, and which are respectively actuated
in reverse directions by the duplex-ended clutch 4, 5, sliding on and
revolving with the shaft 1 according as it is oscillated and coupled into
the two corresponding clutches at its ends 4, 51, revolving loose with
spur pinions 4", 5", attached to them on the shaft 1, all so that when
the clutch 41 is in action the pinion 4" in gear with the wheels 4", 4",
on the shafts h, h³, actuates them in the direction indicated by the arrows
round these wheels in Figure 6, and so as to draw the carriage G out
from the fabric and the carriage G' in towards the fabric; and when tho
coupling 5 is in gear with its clutch 5¹ the pinion 5¹¹ in gear with the
train of two wheels 5, 51, gives motion to the shaft 7, and through it
and the train of wheels 4", 4, to the shaft H in the direction indicated
by the arrows round the wheels in Figure 5 in the reverse direction to
that shown in Figure 6, or so as to traverse the carriages G and G³ in
and out to and from the fabric respectively. The duplex clutch 4, 5, is
thus traversed into gear with the loose clutches 4 or 5¹ by the small
eccentric pin and bush 6 on the top end of the vertical spindle 6¹
working in an annular groove in the middle of the clutch 4, 5. The
spindle 6¹ is carried and revolves intermittently in a footstep bearing
and bracket secured to the frame 3, and is actuated by the constantly
revolving vertical spindle 7 driven by bevil pinions 7 at its top end and
corresponding wheel 7" on the shaft 1, both spindles 6 and 7 being
carried and revolving in footstep bearings and bush journal brackets
secured to the frame 3. The spindle 6¹ is actuated so as to make half a
turn by the bevil rimmed disc 8 on its lower end at each time it is
put into action with and by its corresponding grooved friction driving
wheel 8¹ on the shaft 7, the disc 8 having a segmental part slightly

page_text: cut away at its opposite sides in the same parallel plane as the
eccentric or crank pin 6, and at right angles to the engaging and
holding duplex palls or arms 9, 91, below the disc 8, which is turned
in the direction indicated by the arrows in Figure 3 when turned
past the segmental parts by the action of the fixed spring 10 pressing
on one of the arms 9 or 9', when the other end 9¹ or 9 respectively
is freed by the depressing of the front stopping end 11 of the holding
lever 12 against the power of a spring 11' below it by the raising
of the other end 12¹ of the lever. This raising of the end lever 12' of
the lever 12 takes place and is effected as mentioned under the
first special part of these our improvements by the last part of the
outward motion of the carriage G or G' and drag or tension upon the
threads B' and lowest web of the fabric A on and to either side of the
machine respectively; and as shown applied thereto by this modifica-
tion and arrangement, seen particularly in the detached vertical section,
Figure 10, the deflection or bagging of the fabric A, as, say, on the
right hand side of the machine in Figures 2 and 10, and shown dotted
in the deflected position in the latter Figure caused by the desired
regular tightening of the thread and stitches draws out the light long
rod and fingers 13 resting on or laid close to the fabric A, and fixed
to the top ends of the levers 131 of the oscillating transverse long
spindle 14 carried in bearing brackets 15 bolted to the lower rail F" of
the main frame, and which also draws out the top end of the vertical
lever 14 keyed on the one end of the spindle 14 carrying the arm 16
bolted at its upper end, so that its outer end comes in contact with
a pin 16 in the lower arm of the hanging swivel spring buffer or
stopping pall 16" which causes the upper pall end to take into the teeth
of the ratchet wheel J fast on the scroll driving pulley I, so as to
stop the outward momentum and motion of the carriage G₁ when the
threads B' are thus pulled to the tightness required, while at the same
moment the inner end 17¹ of the lever 17 with an antifriction roller
on it resting on and held up by the top end of the lever 14' falls by
the action and power of the two-armed cross lever 19 and spring 20
pulling down its arm 19", which pulls up the other arms 19¹ and 174
of the two levers 17 and 19 attached by a slot and pin connection.
The end 19 of the latter carries a pendant lifting catch 21, which
when thus raised from the position shown in red lines to that shown
in black in Figure 2 takes under the catch 12" on the end 12¹ of the
lever 12, and so frees the stopped arm 9 or 9¹ of the spindle 6', which

page_text: instantly makes half a turn and is stopped again, and so throws the
clutch 4 into gear with its clutch 4' and reverses the motion of the
carriage G, all otherwise as herein-before described. The catch 21 has a
lateral pin 21', which in rising acts on the inclined stop wing 22 (fixed
on the end lower centre rail 3¹ of the frame 3) which forces the catch 21
out free from the catch 12" and allows the lever 12' to fall and 11 to
rise to their normal positions and stop the revolving of the spindle 6¹
where the segmental part of the disc 8 is cut away by the power of the
spring 11', and at the same time by a stop at the upper part of the
angled wing 22 prevent the levers 19 and 17 from rising further by
the power of the spring 20. The lever arm 19' in rising also raises
the horizontal arm 24' of the depressing bell-crank lever arrangement
keyed on one end of the spindle 24 which tilts the bent vertical arm 24"
on its inner end outwards into such a position that as the carriage G¹
comes forward the lower edge of the pendant pall or presser 25 hinged
to the front end of the bracket 25¹ bolted to the end frame G³ of the
carriage pushes it forward again so that the antifriction roller in the
arm 24' brings down the lever arms 19", 17", and attachment to their
primary normal position against the power of the spring 20, so that
the catch 21 which is attached to the one opposite by the spring 23 is
brought again under the catch 12", in which position it and its actuating
levers 17, 19, and 24 are held by the top end of the lever 14' falling
back under the lever arm 17', which also allows the retarding pall 16¹ to
fall or be drawn back by a spring or weight out of gear with the ratchet
wheel J, all in readiness for the next and similar inward reversing of
the carriage G. The further inward traverse of the carriage G' causes
the same presser 25, which is rounded laterally on the side for the
purpose, to act on the inclined end 26 of the sliding catch bar 26¹
attached at the other end 26" to the disengaging lever 27 of the
coupling 28 sliding on the end of the shaft H' at its junction with
the shaft h', so as to disengage the clutch 28 from its consort 28¹ on the
back of the pinion 4 against the power of the spring 29 which couples
them when not held out of gear by the straight arm 30 of the lever 31,
which takes into a notch or step on the under side of the detent 30'
(shewn detached at Figure 12 screwed to the middle of the bar 26¹)
at the time the bar 26' is pushed forward by the presser 25, as described
and shown in this position on the left hand side of Figure 4. When
the last part of the inward motion and momentum of the carriage G¹
has thus automatically stopped the motion of its own actuating shaft H'

page_text: and pushed the two rows of needles C, C', through the fabric A into
the nippers C of the opposite carriage G, and coupled the open
levers C on to the studs K of the needle slackening and tightening
mechanism before referred to, it is locked at the two opposite sides by
the downward and upward curved and notched locking catches 32, 32',
(attached to its side frames G³) which take over the catch points 33 of
the bell-crank levers fulcrummed at 33' to brackets bolted to the
frames F, F, the pendant arms 34 of both levers being coupled by a
wire across the machine indicated by the dotted line 341, so that a fixed
spring 34 attached to the frame F¹ and the upper arm 33 of the
lever at that side keeps the carriage G¹ so locked until released, and
retains the antifriction roller on the front horizontal arm 35 of
the catch levers 33¹ pressed down on the top of the inner horizontal
bent arm 31" of the lever 31; this locking mechanism of the carriages,
at their extreme inward traverse, is used either instead of or in addition
to the ordinary locking catch segment c³ and pin c" at the central
part of the slacking and tightening spindles C of the needle grippers.
Just before the carriage G₁ comes to a stand and is locked, as
described, a depressing pall 38 jointed to a long arm 38¹ bolted to
the side frame Gs of the carriage (all substantially similar in con-
struction and action to those described in reference to 25 and 25¹,
and which both act in their forward motion towards the fabric, but
are jointed to swing and fold upwards in their outer traverse, and
thus interfere with none of the parts) passes over one of the two short
upper bevelled surfaces 39¹ or 39 of the heeled and tilting depresser 40
fulcrummed on a stud near its acting face or heel fixed to the top of the
bracket 41 bolted to the frame F shown in front and side view and plan
detached in Figures 7, 8, and 9 respectively. The tilting of the heel part
of the pall 40 thus for an instant presses on the head of the small
spindle 42 sliding in the bracket 41 so as to depress it against the power
of the spring 43 attached to the bracket 41 at top, and to a lateral lug
or stud at its lower end fixed to the spindle 42, which is jointed at
its lower end to the inner arm 44 of the two-armed clutch lever
fulcrummed in the middle at 44' to a stud in the bracket 41, the other
arm 45 working in an annular groove in the clutch 46 sliding with two
feathers on the spindle L, so that when the sliding spindle 42 is
depressed it pushes the clutch 46 into gear with its consort 46' cast on
the back of the bevel wheel 47, both running loose on the spindle L, and
in gear with and driven continuously by the pinion 47' on the inner end

page_text: of the first motion shaft 1, as indicated by the arrows. The turning of
the spindle L intermittently when either of the carriages G¹ or G and
its depresser 38 comes and is locked at the fabric A is effected all as
described by putting the clutch 46 in gear with the wheel clutch 46', and
the stopping and holding or locking it at and after every half turn
until the other carriage has made its outward and inward traverse
regularly is effected by the annular rim 46" on the lower side of the
clutch 46 (which slides by a groove and feather or other equivalent on the
spindle L) having two deep hollow grooves 48 on it on opposite sides in
the vertical plane with the arm 37 keyed on the top of the spindle L.
The clutch 46 is supported and revolves on its rim 46" when put into
gear as described by the depressing mechanism 38, 39, 42, and lever 44,
on a roller 48' carried on a stud in the bracket 49 bolted to the frame 3
(seen detached in Figure 13), so that the clutch 46 falls and is pulled
down out of gear from the clutch 46' by its weight and the power of the
spring 43 through the slide 42 and two-armed clutch lever 44, 45, as
soon as one of the said grooves 48 comes round over the pulley 48¹ so as
to stop the motion of the spindle L, the pulley 48¹ forming a locking or
holding catch to keep the spindle and its heart cam K™ below in proper
position after having (all otherwise as herein-before described) slackened
the needles in the one carriage and tightened them in the other by the said
half revolution and all in readiness for the next half turn every time
either of the carriages comes up to the fabric. The kneed arm 31" of
the lever 31 on the opposite side of the machine to the said locked
carriage last brought up to the fabric is raised by the bevelled cam
ridge 36 on the under side of its extreme end, and the revolving and
action of the cam arm 37 thereon keyed on the top of the spindle L
during the last part of its half revolution, so as to raise the arm 31" and
lower the arm 30 of the lever 31 free the bar 26¹ and its detent 30, and
allow the spring 29 to insert the clutch 28 of the actuating shaft H,
and set it and the carriage G in motion when the latter is unlocked,
which it is a second before that by the first movement of the same
arm 31" which lets go the clutch 28 to set it in motion and lift the
arm 35 of its locking mechanism all as further herein-before described,
and thus give the outward traverse of the threads B, B', to the left-hand
side of the machine, and which as they tighten the stitches to that side
would by the drag on the fabric and self-acting mechanical arrangement
on that side of the machine reverse the carriage G for making its inward
traverse and stitches from that side to the right, all substantially as

page_text: herein-before described in reference to the other or right hand side.
Instead of stopping the speed and momentum of the usual driving
shafts Hor H by a ratchet wheel J as described, a friction break wheel
or disc may be used having the actuating lever of the friction break
block or strap put into action, as described in reference to the pall
lever 16", by the motion given to the fabric A or to the needles C or
their holders C or their carrying rail O". Although we have shewn and
described the strain on and the bending of the fabric A to shift the pall
or lever 10' of the ratchet or friction break wheel J into gear and stop.
the outward or backward momentum and motion of the carriages G, G¹,
and also reverse them and their first motion driving clutch 4, 5, and
gearing, yet still it will be evident that the strain upon the threads B
may also at the last part of their traverse (in accordance with the first
main improvement of our said Invention) be made to do the same
through the rising and tightening or straining and straightening of the
row of threads B or B¹ against a bar or levor so as to throw an actuating
pall or lever into gear, or otherwise the strain of the threads may be
made to move the needle holders Os or their carrying bar O" against the
power of a spring, which could be regulated to yield and give the
necessary motion to shift the said breaking and reversing levers 16", 13,
and 12 by the said regulated strain at the proper intermittent times to
reverse the motion of the gearing and carriages according to the varying
length of the threads. Although the traversing motion and momentum.
of the carriages G, G, have herein been, described and shown as giving,
the tension to the threads B, B, and for giving the initial movements.of
our said improvements and self-acting and motive-power mechanism,
near the end of the outward and inward traverse of the threads, it is to.
be understood that in embroidery sewing machines in which the cloth
frame A³ is made the traversing carriage to tighten the threads, then in
such cases the traversing motion and momentum of the fabric frame A³.
may by the means and mechanism herein described or their equivalents.
be made to perform the automatic motions and purposes we have
described as derived from the motion of the needle carriages G, G.
Although the various engaging and disengaging levers have been
described as tilted in the one direction by springs, it will be understood.
that they may be actuated by weights instead.

page_text: double edged Knives of cutters ranged at sta
адос арал суча
or corresponding to the distances between the holes to be pierced in the
centre of the holes or hollow patterns (requiring to be sewn at the timo
all round by the needles), and which, like the knives, are ranged in a
row across the fabric, one to each pattern and hole nearly below the
needle holders.
Figures 14 and 15 represent a transverse section and plan respectively
of sufficient of the parts of one arrangement detached from the machine,
to a large scale, so as to illustrate this part of our said Invention, and
enable a mechanic to make and apply our said improvements for piercing
the pattern holes in sets at one operation across the whole width of the
fabric (instead of by a hand knife or piercer, and one hole and pattern
at a time), and which improvement cuts the holes all at the uniform
height and distance apart and form and size, whether round or slit holes
are required for the particular pattern, all so as to save much time in
stopping the machine for this purpose, and so to pierce the holes more
uniform in size and regular in distance to suit the position of the needles,
and for some patterns without requiring the position or design to be
indicated or printed on the fabric. Referring to these Figures 14 and 15,
each piercer or knife 50 is carried by preference by a round stem 51 and
feather or screw nut at its rear end in the eye of a small screw wheel 52
turned on its short end journals in one of a range of bearing holes 51'
bored or formed in the middle joint of the long transverse rail or bar 53.
This rail is thus made in two halves to enable all the wheels 52 to be
inserted in their bearings over a long screw spindle 52", into which they
gear, and by which they are all simultaneously turned to the same angle
or extent to suit the inclined slits required by a crank hand lever at one
end of the rail 53, the two halves of the rail 53 being bolted together
by screws along their edges forming one ridged rail 53, one of which,
with the points of the knives 50, projecting out in front towards the
fabric, one below each needle holder C is screwed to the sliding bush
blocks 54 fitted on to the under side of the slide guide brackets 55
bolted to each of the rails O" of one of the carriages, as, say, G, below
the two rows of needle holders C³, one close to each bracket G, to
which they are also secured, all so as to form a parallel sliding frame, on
which each bar 53 and its knives 50 are pushed out and drawn into and
from the fabric at each time a new set of holes has to be pierced and
sewn. This reciprocatory motion is given to the slides 54 and the rail 53

page_text: and set of knives 50 carried on them by the arrangement shewn in these
Figures by a toggle or double lever arrangement 56, 56', at each slide
bracket 55. The free end of the lever 56 being attached to a fixed
pin 57 in and projecting down from the rear end of the bracket 55,
carried back for the purpose, and the free end of the other lever 56¹ is
attached to the pin 58 projecting down from each sliding bush 54, while
the adjacent ends of the two levers 56, 56', of each arrangement are
attached by a single joint pin 59 to the actuating long bar 60, which is
reciprocated to and fro across the carriage at one end of the machine by
itself, or connected with the actuating rod of the other bar, so as to
move both bars 60 by a connecting double-armed vertical lever or
spindle, which by turning either of them by a single actuating hand
lever or crank handle, or other equivalent, would force out the rails 53
and their cutters 50 in a parallel manner into the fabric A to the desired
extent to make the size or width of slits or holes required, the distance
being regulated by convenient setting, stop, or screw studs in the guide
brackets or other convenient part of the sliding mechanism, which studs
could be previously set to the length of traverse desired. The sharp
points of the piercers or knives 50, which are made conical, like a
bodkin, or as shown in these Figures, like a knife with a smoth non-
cutting back, or dagger-shaped, with a double edge, in each case widest
towards the back, are thus forced into the fabric, each exactly opposite
one of a row of holes formed in a rigid bar attached at its two ends to
fixed or moveable brackets secured to the main side standards F, F, of
the machine, and on the opposite side of the fabric A to the piercers 50,
so as to sustain it as a "bolster" or resting die all round each hole while
being pierced or cut. The piercing or cutting of the holes is done while
all the other moving parts of the mechanism are at rest, and the pattern
frame brought down and set by the pentagraph to the proper position
opposite the knives or piercers 50, and the carriage G carrying them is
close up to the fabric A; by turning the hand lever in the one direction,
which on being reversed draws back the knife bars 53 and knives 50 out
of the way below the needle bars O", all so that the fabric A can again
be raised to its sewing position opposite the needles C, C', and the machine.
set on again with little stoppage or intermission of its sewing action.
Instead of the toggle-joint arrangement 56, 56¹, vertical spindles with
cams or eccentrics could be secured, one at every slide bracket G", the
pins 58 of the sliding bushes 54 of the upper and lower rails 53 working
direct into the cam, eccentric, or scroll grooves, and the whole of these

page_text: vertical spindles could be actuated simultaneously by a long horizontal
shaft connected or geared to them by skew, bevel, or spur wheels.
When the slits and pattern are desired to be made at different widths
or distances apart in the same machine different rails 53 can be made
with the journal holes of the screw wheels 52 pierced at the width to
suit, and the wheels 52 and screw 52¹ taken out of the one bar and put
into the other, and the new bar secured to the slides 54 in place of the
former, thus requiring little expense or trouble to make the machine do
different classes of work.
Having thus particularly described the nature of our said Invention,
and the manner in which the same is or may be performed, we have to
state that we do not restrict ourselves to the precise details herein
described or delineated; but what we believe to be novel and original,
and therefore claim as the Invention secured to us by the herein-before
in part recited Letters Patent is,―
First. The construction and arrangement of the motive mechanism
and initatory mechanism of embroidering machines, herein indicated and
referred to by numerals, all substantially in the new or improved manner
and for the purposes herein described and shown in the accompanying
Drawings.
Second. The retarding and reversing the motion of the thread-drawing
carriages of embroidering machines by the motion or action of a dis-
engaging light lever or bar taken from the straightening motion of the
threads, or the deflection or motion of the fabric, or of the needle
holders, caused by the strain on the threads at the latter part of their
different and decreasing lengths and traverse, all substantially as herein
described.
Third. The resetting of the disengaging spring or weight loaded levers
by the inward traverse of the thread-drawing carriages of embroidering
machines in readiness for their next action, all substantially as herein
described.
Fourth. The making the latter part of the inward motion and
momentum of one thread-drawing carriage of embroidering machines
to lock itself, and then to set on and stop the motive mechanism of the
heart cam and its connections, so as to actuate the ordinary needle- 3
locking and unlocking mechanism, and also unlock and finally set on
the opposite carriage on its outward traverse at the proper times and by

page_text: the respective new or improved means and arrangements of mechanism,
all for the purposes substantially as herein described.
Fifth. The actuating of the two ordinary revolving shafts of the
thread drawing carriages of embroidering machines by a single first
motion motive-power revolving shaft in reverse directions through the
duplex arrangement of clutch couplings and two sets of wheels, all
substantially in the manner and for the purposes herein described.
Sixth. The construction and arrangement of two revolving spindles
and their connections actuated intermittently from the first motion
shaft at the time and for the respective purposes, the one for reversing
the motion of the thread-drawing carriages of embroidering machines at
their extreme, outward traverse, and the other for stopping their inward
motion and for slacking and fastening the needles and unlocking and
setting on the opposite carriages on their outward traverse, all sub-
stantially as herein described.
Seventh. The cutting and piercing the holes in the fabric to bo
embroidered in embroidering machines in sets or rows, all substantially
in the manner and by the means and mechanism herein described.
In witness whereof, we, the said James Pritchard and John Collins,
have hereunto set our hands and seals, this Twentieth day of
June, in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and
seventy.
25 Witness,
W. R. M. THOMSON,
Patent Agent,
JAMES PRITCHARD. (L.S.)
JOHN COLLINS.
(L.S.)
20, Buchanan Street,
Glasgow.