Improvements in the Manufacture of Velvets and other Cut Pile Fabrics, and in the Means or Apparatus employed therein.
Year: 1893

page_text: Date of Application, 2nd Nov., 1893
Complete Specification Left, 1st Sept., 1894-Accepted, 6th Oct., 1894
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Velvets and other Cut Pile
Fabrics, and in the Means or Apparatus employed therein.
We JOHN CLOUGH of Grove Mills, Keighley, in the County of York Spinner
and Manufacturer, and JOHN PARK, of 16 East View Terrace, Skipton, in the
said county Designer do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as
follows:-
This invention relates to the manufacture of plushes, velvets and other cut pile
fabrics with the pile produced from the weft producing what is known as
"weft
pile.'
"
The method generally adopted in the manufacture of this class of goods has been
to weave them in the loom according to the ordinary and well known method of
weaving and afterwards to cut the pile.
Many attempts have been made to weave the cloth and cut the pile floats
simultaneously in the loom but so far as we are aware none of the methods adopted
have been practically successful or completely satisfactory.
We are aware that it has been proposed and a system to some extent applied
whereby thin blades were inserted through the reed which blades are hinged onto a
rod in front of the reed, the other ends pass through the reed and are fixed in the
healds and are operated by substantially the usual shedding mechanism so that
when the pick is thrown across the shed as many of these blades come into use as
the number of floats which are desired to be cut and the shuttle passes over them
and when the reed beats up, the floats that have passed over the blades are cut;
but this system is objectionable because of the friction caused by the movement of
the reed against the blades.
In order to attain our object, we utilize the reed itself, wbich we so construct
and operate as to enable us to operate each individual reed or dent as simply and
with as great freedom as and substantially in the manner in which healds or harness
are operated that is we attach each reed to a separate heald or harness and in
actuating the jacquard to form the shed we operate the required number of reeds
where we desire to cut the picks. This reed is divided for a greater portion of its
height and the one part is formed with a bend or part projecting forward and at
suitable parts the adjacent edges of the divided parts are adapted to effect a cut.
When the reeds are drawn down the "shuttle" passes over part of the bend in
the reed referred to and as the reed moves forward to the beat up of the cloth,
these reeds over which the shuttle has passed resume their original position, the
weft pick which has been left above the bends falls down the curve to below the
bend, and is thus between two cutting surfaces which may have sharp edges
the exact position of the weft thread being governed by the position of the warp
and when the reed beats up the weft is cut wherever the pick is loft in, the loop.
Positive means are by preference used to return the reeds to their normal
positions springs not having been found to give a satisfactory result.
Amongst other advantages this system is characterized by its simplicity, certainty
of action, and the facility afforded for producing variations in the design and
construction of the fabrics manufactured.
Dated the 2nd day of November 1893.

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Velvets and other Cut Pile
Fabrics, and in the Means or Apparatus employed therein.
We JOHN CLOUGH of Grove Mills, Keighley in the County of York, Spinner
and Manufacturer, and JOHN PARK, of 16 East View Terrace, Skipton, in the
said county, Designer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in
what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement:-
:
This invention relates to the manufacture of plushes, velvets and other cut pile
fabrics with the pile produced from the weft producing what is known as "weft
pile."
The method generally adopted in the manufacture of this class of goods has been
to weave them in the loom according to the ordinary and well known method of
weaving and afterwards to cut the pile.
Many attempts have been made to weave the cloth and cut the pile floats
simultaneously in the loom but so far as we are aware noue of the methods adopted
have been practically successful or completely satisfactory.
We are aware that it has been proposed and a system to some extent applied
whereby thin blades were inserted through the reed which blades are hinged on to
a rod in front of the reed, the other ends pass through the reed and are fixed in the
healds and are operated by substantially the usual shedding mechanism so that
when the pick is thrown across the shed as many of these blades come into use as
the number of floats which are desired to be cut and the shuttle passes over them
and when the reed beats up, the floats that have passed over the blades are cut;
but this system is objectionable because of the friction caused by the movement of
the reed against the blades.
In order to attain our object, we utilize the reed itself, which we so construct
and operate as to enable us to operate each individual reed or dent as simply
and with as great freedom as and substantially in the manner in which healds
or harness are operated; that is, we attach each reed to a separate heald or
harness and in actuating the jacquard to form the shed we operate the required
number of reeds where we desire to cut the picks. This reed is divided for a
greater portion of its height and the one part is formed with a beud or part
projecting forward and at suitable parts the adjacent edges of the divided parts
are adapted to effect a cut.
When the reeds are drawn down the "shuttle" passes over part of the bend in
the reed referred to and as the reed' moves forward to the beat up of the cloth,
these reeds over which the shuttle has passed resume their original position, the
weft pick which has been left above the bends falls down the curve to below
the bend, and is thus between two cutting surfaces which may have sharp edges
the exact position of the weft thread being governed by the position of the warp
and when the reed beats up the cutting edges are pressed together and the weft
is cut wherever the pick is left in the loop.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.
Figure 1 shows the improved apparatus by a side view-looking on the left hand.
1..
:

page_text: centered at J¹, one end being carried by the thread a' and the other attached to a
separate harness K from the jacquard; thus enabling each loop reed to be drawn
down when required. A rod B serves to return the loop reed positively after a
pick has been sent through the loop. This rod B. is kept in position by having its
ends guided in a gutter at each end of the loom.
A guide bar L having an inclined or suitable cam surface is carried by a rod or
rods P from the framing. This bar L passes through a slot in the bar B and upon
the Bword or "going part" N being swung forward it causes the bar B to rise up
the guide L carrying with it the loop reeds which had been lowered. By these
means the whole of the loop reeds which were brought down by the jacquard are
returned to their original position after a pick has been sent through the loop.
The reed a is supported at the back by the support C which also carries the
back rib-and the support D the front rib-of the under reed E through which
each loop reed is passed and upon which the shuttle S runs.
F is a top reed through which each loop is passed and G. G. and H H are roda
for gripping and guiding the loop reeds. The shuttle S is.shewn passing through
the shed where the loop reed which is drawn down is indicated by dotted lines.
The weft threads which are not to be cut are carried by the shuttle underneath
the loop reed in the higher or full line position.
After a weft thread has been carried through the shed, at the position marked W,
the reed which has been lowered by the jacquard is now returned to its higher
position.
As it is lifted up, the thread which had been placed above this loop, falls into
the division b, as shown by the position W'. On moving further up, the guide
bars G. H guide the loop reed, as it rises, to the rear, into the position shewn by
full lines and in doing so the thread Wis pressed between the cutting edge o' and
the front edge a' of the adjacent reed thus enabling a cutting movement to be
effected when the beat up takes place.
Or the weft thread W may be cut between the edges c c by the pressing
together of these edges at the moment of beat up.
Amongst other advantages this system is characterised by its simplicity, certainty
of action, and the facility afforded for producing variations in the design and
.construction of the fabrics manufactured.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we
claim is :-
In the manufacture of velvets and other cut pile fabrics.
1. The use of the members of the reed itself as cutters or dividers of the pile
threads substantially as set forth.
2. The construction, arrangement and use of a reed having each reed or blade
attached to a separate heald or harness and actuated by the jacquard or equivalent
pattern surface each said reed being adapted in the beat up to effect the cutting or
division of the pile threads as and for the purpose set forth.
Dated the 31st day of Avonst 1894.
WM. BROOKES & SON,
55 & 56, Chancery Lane, London, Agents for the Applicants.