CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN BUTTONS;
Year: 1835

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, HUMPHREY
JEFFERIES, of Birmingham, in the County of Warwick, Goldsmith and
Jeweller, send greeting.
WHEREAS His present most Excellent Majesty King William the Fourth,
by His Letters Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date
at Westminster, the Twenty-eighth day of November, in the sixth year of
His reign, did, for Himself, His heirs and successors, give and grant unto me,
the said Humphrey Jefferies, His especial licence, that I, the said Humphrey
Jefferies, my exors, adññiors, and assigns, or such others as I, the said
Humphrey Jefferies, my exors, adiñors, and assigns, should at any time
agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times during the term
of years therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise,
and vend, within England, Wales, and the Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed,
my Invention of "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN BUTTONS;" in which said Letters
Patent is contained a proviso, obliging me, the said Humphrey Jefferies, by
an instrument in writing under my hand and seal, particularly to describe
and ascertain the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same
is to be performed, and to cause the same to be enrolled in His said Majesty's
High Court of Chancery within six calendar months next and immediately
after the date of the said recited Letters Patent, as in and by the same,
reference being thereunto had, will more fully and at large appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said
Humphrey Jefferies, do hereby declare the nature of my said Invention, to
consist of an improvement in those kinds of metallic shanks which are raised
or formed out of the piece of metal intended for the button or button back,
and also of an improved shank made of wire and fastened to the button blank

page_text: by means of a stamp or press without the use of solder or any other extraceous
matter; and in further compliance with the said proviso, I, the said Humphrey
Jefferies, do hereby describe the manner in which my said Invention is to be
performed by the following statement thereof, reference being had to the
Drawings in the margin hereof, and to the figures and letters marked thereon,
that is to say:-
To make a button commonly called a brace button, also the back or under
side for a metallic shell button, or for a Florentine silk, cloth, or other covered
button, I take a circular piece of sheet iron, or other metal suitable for the
purpose, and of the requisite size and substance, and by stamping or pressing
form the back or under side of the button with a rim of the edge and a swell
in the centre, as shewn by Figure 1. I then, by means of a pair of piercing tools,
Figures A & B, (described hereafter) and holding the button bottom in the
form or position shown by Figures 2 and 3, cut or pierce two sides of the
central swell (which swell may be either circular or oblong), and at the same
time turn the edges of the metal where so cut or pierced and intended to form
the shank under and not over the shank in such manner as to round the edges
in all parts and avoid cutting the thread or cloth. The edges so turned should
not be made merely to approach or go near to each other, but they should be
actually doubled under until they touch the under side of the shank and be
pressed against it; and it is a feature of this mode of forming the shank by
doubling under the edges of the elevated and pierced centre that it may
be done in iron as well as in copper or brass. The operation and the tools
used in effecting it are of the most simple description. The iron for the
button back must be the best charcoal iron, and it should be annealed
during the process. Figure 4 shews the concave side of the button back;
and 5, the convex side with the shank compleat. The tools used for cutting
or piercing the shank, and at the same time, turning or rounding the edges
thereof, must be formed with great accuracy in order that they may round or
take off the rough edges of the metal forming the shank, otherwise, if any
rough or sharp edge be left, it will cut the button hole and also the thread or
other material used in sowing the button on the garment. Figure A shows
the punch, and Figure B the bed in the position for piercing, or bevelling, or
throwing back the edges, and Figures C & D the same tools, when the
shank is pierced. Figure E shews the profile of the piercing and bevelling
punch, one side (a) being flat, and the other (b) round or convex; and
Figure F shews a side view of the piercing tools with the button in them.
Figures G & H show respectively the outside and inside of the button back
in the act of piercing.

page_text: To make solid metal buttons.-I take a common metal button blank of
the size required, and by means of a stamp or press form two small square
concavities (see Fig. 6) near the centre at proper distances to receive both
ends of the shank. I then take a common button shank of the form shewn
by Figure (7), the ends of the shank being made to fit into the concavities
of the button blank. I then put the shank into a shank die with the ends
inserted into the concavities of the blank, and then with a top die, to be
forced or struck down upon it by means of the press or stamp, unite or
fasten the shank and blank together, and at the same time by the use of the
press or stamp, impress upon the button any fancy pattern, if required.
Figure 8 shews this shank compleat.
Now, whereas I claim as my Invention the following improvements, that
is to say:
First, the improved shank to the brace button, or bottom for a metallic shell,
Florentine or other covered button, which shank being raised as aforesaid out
of the metal is so cut or pierced that the edges of the shank are turned under
as aforesaid, which turning under prevents the cutting of the thread and of
the button holes complained of in the raised or cut and pierced shank, the
edges of which are not turned under as aforesaid.
Secondly, the wire shank fixed or united to the button without the use of
solder.
And such, my Invention, being, to the best of my knowledge and belief,
entirely new and never before used within that part of His said Majesty's
United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland called England, His said
Dominion of Wales, or Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, I do hereby declare
this to be my Specification of the same; and that I do verily believe this my
said Specification doth comply in all respects fully and without reserve or
disguise with the proviso in the said herein-before in part recited Letters
Patent contained, wherefore, I do hereby claim to maintain exclusive right
and privilege to my said improvements.
In witness whereof, I the said Humphrey Jefferies, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Fourth day of May, One thousand eight
hundred and thirty-six.
HUMPHREY (L.S.) JEFFERIES.
5 Signed, sealed, and delivered, (being first
duly stamped,) in the presence of,
J. R. BESWICK, Att,
Birm.

page_text: AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the Fourth day of May, in the
year of our Lord 1836, the aforesaid Humphrey Jefferies came before our said
Lord the King in His Chancery, and acknowledged the Specification afore-
said, and all and every thing therein contained and specified, in form above
written. And also the Specification aforesaid was stamped according to the
tenor of the Statute made for that purpose.
Inrolled the Nineteenth day of May, in the year of our Lord One thou-
sand eight hundred and thirty-six.

page_text: JEFFERIES' SPECIFICATION.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, HUMPHREY
JEFFERIES, of Birmingham, in the County of Warwick, Goldsmith and
Jeweller, send greeting.
WHEREAS His present most Excellent Majesty King William the Fourth,
by His Letters Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date
at Westminster, the Twenty-eighth day of November, in the sixth year of
His reign, did, for Himself, His heirs and successors, give and grant unto me,
the said Humphrey Jefferies, His especial licence, that I, the said Humphrey
Jefferies, my exors, admñňors, and assigns, or such others as I, the said
Humphrey Jefferies, my exors, adiñors, and assigns, should at any time
agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times during the term
of years therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise,
and vend, within England, Wales, and the Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed,
my Invention of "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN BUTTONS;" in which said Letters
Patent is contained a proviso, obliging me, the said Humphrey Jefferies, by
an instrument in writing under my hand and seal, particularly to describe
and ascertain the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same
is to be performed, and to cause the same to be enrolled in His said Majesty's
High Court of Chancery within six calendar months next and immediately
after the date of the said recited Letters Patent, as in and by the same,
reference being thereunto had, will more fully and at large appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said
Humphrey Jefferies, do hereby declare the nature of my said Invention, to
consist of an improvement in those kinds of metallic shanks which are raised
or formed out of the piece of metal intended for the button or button back,
and also of an improved shank made of wire and fastened to the button blank.

page_text: by means of a stamp or press without the use of solder or any other extraceous
matter; and in further compliance with the said proviso, I, the said Humphrey
Jefferies, do hereby describe the manner in which my said Invention is to be
performed by the following statement thereof, reference being had to the
Drawings in the margin hereof, and to the figures and letters marked thereon,
that is to say:-
To make a button commonly called a brace button, also the back or under
side for a metallic shell button, or for a Florentine silk, cloth, or other covered
button, I take a circular piece of sheet iron, or other metal suitable for the
purpose, and of the requisite size and substance, and by stamping or pressing
form the back or under side of the button with a rim of the edge and a swell
in the centre, as shewn by Figure 1. I then, by means of a pair of piercing tools,
Figures A & B, (described hereafter) and holding the button bottom in the
form or position shewn by Figures 2 and 3, cut or pierce two sides of the
central swell (which swell may be either circular or oblong), and at the same
time turn the edges of the metal where so cut or pierced and intended to form
the shank under and not over the shank in such manner as to round the edges
in all parts and avoid cutting the thread or cloth. The edges so turned should
not be made merely to approach or go near to each other, but they should be
actually doubled under until they touch the under side of the shank and be
pressed against it; and it is a feature of this mode of forming the shank by
doubling under the edges of the clevated and pierced centre that it may
be done in iron as well as in copper or brass. The operation and the tools
used in effecting it are of the most simple description. The iron for the
button back must be the best charcoal iron, and it should be annealed
during the process. Figure 4 shows the concave side of the button back;
and 5, the convex side with the shank compleat. The tools used for cutting
or piercing the shank, and at the same time, turning or rounding the edges
thereof, must be formed with great accuracy in order that they may round or
take off the rough edges of the metal forming the shank, otherwise, if any
rough or sharp edge be left, it will cut the button hole and also the thread or
other material used in sewing the button on the garment. Figure A shews
the punch, and Figure B the bed in the position for piercing, or bevelling, or
throwing back the edges, and Figures C & D the same tools, when the
shank is pierced. Figure E shews the profile of the piercing and bevelling
punch, one side (a) being flat, and the other (6) round or convex; and
Figure F shews
side view of the piercing tools with the button in them.
Figures G & II shew respectively the outside and inside of the button back
in the act of piercing.

page_text: To make solid metal buttons.-I take a common metal button blank of
the size required, and by means of a stamp or press form two small squaro
concavities (see Fig. 6) near the centre at proper distances to receive both
ends of the shank. I then take a common button shank of the form shewn
by Figure (7), the ends of the shank being made to fit into the concavities
of the button blank. I then put the shank into a shank die with the ends
inserted into the concavities of the blank, and then with a top die, to be
forced or struck down upon it by means of the press or stamp, unite or
fasten the shank and blank together, and at the same time by the use of the
press or stamp, impress upon the button any fancy pattern, if required.
Figure 8 shews this shank compleat.
Now, whereas I claim as my Invention the following improvements, that
is to say:
First, the improved shank to the brace button, or bottom for a metallic shell,
Florentine or other covered button, which shank being raised as aforesaid out
of the metal is so cut or pierced that the edges of the shank are turned under
as aforesaid, which turning under prevents the cutting of the thread and of
the button holes complained of in the raised or cut and pierced shank, the
edges of which are not turned under as aforesaid.
Secondly, the wire shank fixed or united to the button without the use of
solder.
And such, my Invention, being, to the best of my knowledge and belief,
entirely new and never before used within that part of His said Majesty's
United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland called England, His said
Dominion of Wales, or Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, I do hereby declare
this to be my Specification of the same; and that I do verily believe this my
said Specification doth comply in all respects fully and without reserve or
disguise with the proviso in the said herein-before in part recited Letters
Patent contained, wherefore, I do hereby claim to maintain exclusive right
and privilege to my said improvements.
In witness whereof, I the said Humphrey Jefferies, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Fourth day of May, One thousand eight
bundred and thirty-six.
HUMPHREY (L.B.) JEFFERIES.
5 Signed, sealed, and delivered, (being first
duly stamped,) in the presence of,
J. R. BESWICK, Att',
Birm".

page_text: AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the Fourth day of May, in the
year of our Lord 1836, the aforesaid Humphrey Jefferies came before our said
Lord the King in His Chancery, and acknowledged the Specification afore-
said, and all and every thing therein contained and specified, in form above
written. And also the Specification aforesaid was stamped according to the
tenor of the Statute made for that purpose.
Inrolled the Nineteenth day of May, in the year of our Lord One thou-