IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY FOR ORNAMENTING LACE
Year: 1884

page_text: PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
t
I
I ROBERT SCOTT of 131 Noel Street Nottingham Lace Draughtsman do hereby
declare the nature of my invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY FOR
ORNAMENTING LACE "to be as follows:-
This Invention has for its object improvements in machinery for ornamenting
lace.
My improved machinery is especially applicable for ornamenting lace in the
process of manufacture or whilst on the machine in which the lace is woven it
serves for the application to the lace of thick or ornamenting threads to take the
place of threads of a like nature which according to the present practice are woven
into the lace.
.
I employ for this purpose à frame which I call the "figuring" frame it is able to
move in all directions in a plane parallel to the fabric to be ornamented that is to
say as applied to the lace machine where the fabric rises vertically the figuring
frame can move both vertically and horizontally. The wide sheet of lace fabric
as it rises from the facing bar passes through the figuring frame some parts of the
frame and the apparatus which it carries being in front and others behind the laco
fabric.
The fabric is kept distended preferably by porcupine rollers above and below the
figuring frame. This frame carries a bar upon which a series of needles similar to
the needles of a sewing machine are mounted and once for each motion of the lace
machine these needles pass through the fabric and are again withdrawn. The
ornamenting threads are passed through the eyes of the needles.
The figuring frame also carries behind the fabric a second bar on which are
shuttles similar to those of a sewing machine and as each needle passes through
the fabric and presents a loop of the needle thread the corresponding shuttle with
its thread shoots through the loop and secures it.
It is not essential however that shuttles should be employed, they may (as in
some descriptions of sewing machines) be replaced by hooks which lay hold of the
loops of the needle threads after they have passed through the fabric, and retain
them until they are secured by another passage of the needle through the same loop.
The figuring frame carrying all these instruments and the mechanism for driving
them is suspended by rods which as the work progresses are raised and lowered at
each motion of the lace machine in accordance with the nature of the pattern to
be worked.

page_text: The suspension rods at their lower ends are provided with rollers and other
suitable supports on which the figuring frame moves horizontally. Both the
lateral and vertical movements are derived from the jacquard of the lace machine.
In the same way that in the ordinary lace machine, movement is imparted by
the jacquard in accordance with the punched cards representing the pattern to
horizontal bars having eyes through which the warp threads are threaded. So
when this apparatus is applied the jacquard is arranged to operate two additional
horizontal bars and these control the figuring frame. One of these additional bars
imparts horizontal and the other vertical movement to the figuring frame the latter
by means of bell crank levers.
The rods by which the figuring frame is suspended are attached at their upper
ends to these bell cranks and the other arms of the bell cranks are connected by
interposed rods levers or links with the horizontal bar which is directly actuated
by the jacquard machine.
The needles and shuttles or hooks which may be substituted for the shuttles are
so geared as by preference to make a complete stitch for each motion of the lace
machine This is accomplished in the following manner-Beyond the end of the
figuring frame at each extremity of the machine a vertical axis is provided which
by any convenient driving gear is caused to make one revolution for every motion
of the lace machine-Upon the axis there is a box suspended from one of the bell
cranks which moves it up and down as the figuring frame rises and falls The
box contains a pair of bevelled pinions and one whilst turning with the vertical
axis slides with a feather upon it and drives the second pinion the axis of which is
hollows and turns in a bearing in the box. The hollow axis receives within it the
end of another horizontal axis which it drives also by means of a grooved and
feather whilst allowing of an independent horizontal movement. This latter axis
is carried in bearings upon the figuring frame and by a cam upon it gives motion
to the bar to which the needles are attached causing the latter to advance through
the work and to retire-The needle bar is controlled from each end by similar
mechanism.
On the axes already referred to and carried upon the figuring frame there are
also bevelled pinions driving by corresponding pinions parts imparting motion to
the shuttles or to the hooks or instruments by which these shuttles are replaced.
I can employ two or more figuring frames one above the other driven by the
same vertical axes but each separately controlled by the jacquard. Two bars of
the jacquard being devoted to each figuring frame.
Dated this 5th dox of February 1884.

page_text: "I, ROBERT SCOTT of 131 Noel Street Nottingham Lace Draughtsman do hereby
declare the nature of my invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY FOR
ORNAMENTING LACE" and in what manner the same is to be performed to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following Statement :-
This Invention has for its object improvements in machinery for ornamenting
lace.
My improved machinery is especially applicable for ornamenting lace in the
process of manufacture or whilst on the machine in which the lace is woven; it
serves for the application to the lace of thick or ornamenting threads to take the
place of threads of a like nature which according to the present practice are woven
into the lace.
I employ for this purpose a frame which I call the "figuring" frame, it is able
to move in all directions in a plane parallel to the fabric to be ornamented, that is
to say as applied to the lace machine where the fabric rises vertically the figuring
frame can move both vertically and horizontally. The wide sheet of lace fabric as
it rises from the facing bar passes through the figuring frame, some parts of the
frame and the apparatus which it carries being in front and others behind the lace
fabric.
The fabric is kept distended preferably by porcupine rollers.
This frame carries a bar upon which a series of needles similar to the needles of
a sewing machine are mounted and once for each motion of the lace machine these
needles pass through the fabric and are again withdrawn. The ornamenting
threads are passed through the eyes of the needles.
The figuring frame also carries behind the fabric a second bar on which are
shuttles similar to those of a sewing machine and as each needle passes through
the fabric and presents a loop of the needle thread the corresponding shuttle with
its thread shoots through the loop and secures it.
It is not essential however that shuttles should be employed; they may (as in
some descriptions of sewing machines) be replaced by hooks which lay hold of the
loops of the needle threads after they have passed through the fabric and retain
them until they are secured by another passage of the needle through the same
loop.
The figuring frame carrying all these instruments and the mechanism for driving
them is suspended by rods which as the work progresses are raised and lowered at
each motion of the lace machine in accordance with the nature of pattern to be
worked. The suspension rods at their lower ends are provided with rollers and
other suitable supports on which the figuring frame moves horizontally. Both the
lateral and vertical movements are derived from the Jacquard.
In the ordinary lace machine for making figured laces with thick threads
movement is imparted by the Jacquard to horizontal bars through perforations in
which threads are passed. In like manner where this apparatus is applied the
Jacquard is so arranged as to give the necessary motion to the figuring frame, one
box of droppers, or their equivalents, giving the lateral movement and another box
of droppers (or their equivalents) giving the vertical movement to the figuring
frame, the latter by means of bell crank levers,

page_text: The rods by which the figuring frame is suspended are attached at their upper
ends to these bell cranks and the other arms of the bell cranks are connected
by interposed rods levers or links with the Jacquard.
-
The needles and shuttles or hooks which may be substituted for the shuttles are
so geared as by preference to make a complete stitch for each motion of the
machine.
This is accomplished in the following manner :-Beyond the end of the figuring
frame a vertical axis is provided which by any convenient driving gear is caused
to make one revolution for every motion of the machine. Upon the axis there
is a box suspended from one of the bell cranks which moves it up and down as
the figuring frame rises and falls. The box contains a pair of mitre wheels and
one whilst turning with the vertical axis slides with a feather upon it and
drives the second wheel the axis of which is hollow and turns in a bearing in the
box,
"
The hollow axis receives within it the end of another horizontal axis which it
drives also by means of a groove and feather whilst allowing of an independent
lateral movement.
This latter axis is carried in bearings upon the figuring frame and by corre-
sponding mitre wheels imparts motion to the shuttle bar. The bar to which the
needles are attached is so moved as to cause the needles to advance through the
work and to retire. The needle bar is controlled from each end by similar
mechanism.
I can employ two or more figuring frames one above the other driven by the
same vertical axis but each separately controlled by the Jacquard, two bars of the
Jacquard being devoted to each figuring frame.
r
In order that my invention may be fully understood and readily carried into
effect I will proceed to describe the Drawings hereunto annexed,
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.
Figure 1 is a front elevation of the upper part of a lace machine with which my
ornamenting mechanism is combined.
Figure 2 is a transverse vertical section of the same.
Figure 3 is a plan of the figuring frame and Figure 4 is a sectional elevation of
the same.
A. A is part of the main frame of the lace machine and B is a horizontal shaft
thereon making one revolution to each front and back motion of the lace machine.
The figuring frame is supported by the front and back bars C and C¹. In the
length of the machine there are four pairs of these bars and the bars of each pair
are connected at the top by a horizontal tie C*. These bars are guided by
passing through holes in the upper part of the frame and also near their lower
ends they are similarly guided. The guiding holes for the back bar Care formed
in the facing bar D already existing in the machine; and to guide the front bars C
another facing bar E is added and the guides are fixed upon it. This bar also
aids in keeping the fabric in place. The fabric rises from the point bars of the
machine' (which do not appear in the Drawing) and from the bar E ascends
vertically to the porcupine roller F and thence it passes to the roller G upon which
it is wound at the same rate as it is woven by the lace machine.
The bars C. C¹ supporting the figuring frame bang suspended from the bell
crank levers H H. These levers are four in number and they are equidistant the
one from the other. They have their fulcrums upon the frames and at their upper
ends they are connected by a rod to the upright lever I having its fulcrum at f
K is the rod passing to the Jacquard and receiving movement from it precisely
in the same way as the bars of the lace machine proper are actuated by the
Jacquard except that the parts may with advantage be made larger and stronger-
the dropper box being about double the usual width. Thus it will be seen that
" 1
".
+ 13..

page_text: the bars CC come to a higher or lower position according to the number of
droppers which the pattern cards cause to be inserted into the dropper box which
controls the lever I,
The bars C¹ C¹ at the back of the machine carry rollers on which the back
portion L of the figuring frame rests. This part L consists of a trough or shuttle
race in which a series of shuttles similar to the shuttles of a sewing machine are
contained; these shuttles are represented at M, M, Figure 4. The shuttles are kept
in their places and propelled by claws on a top cover N. The cover N receives a
to and fro movement by means of a connecting rod O passing to a crank which is
caused to rotate continuously as hereinafter described. The cover has hinged flaps
upon it equal in number to the shuttles and each flap carries the claws to hold
and propel one of the shuttles. To remove a shuttle and substitute, another, the
flap can be turned upwards so as to open the trough at the point required and
expose the shuttle beneath.
P is the front bar of the figuring frame. It is connected at its two ends with
the back bar L by guide pins in the latter entering holes in the former. The bar P
is also supported between guide fingers above and below it fixed upon the bars C.
So the front bar of the figuring frame partakes of all the movements of the back
bar but it is capable in addition of movement to and from the back bar or shuttle
race whilst remaining constantly parallel to it.
Needles which are similar to sewing machine needles are fixed in notches on the
under side of the bar P, and they are arranged at distances of an inch or so apart
from end to end of this bar.
The face of the bar L, which supports the fabric whilst the needles pass through
it, is perforated to allow the points of the needles, with the thread loops which they
carry to pass through into the shuttle race.
In addition to the vertical movement which the figuring frame receives from the
rods CC by which it is suspended it is also actuated by the rod Q.
This rod leads to the Jacquard and is operated in the same manner as the rod K.
It imparts endwise movement to the figuring frame bringing it to a position
dependent on the number of droppers in the dropper box of the Jacquard with
which this rod Q is connected. So the figuring frame is governed in two directions
by the Jacquard, vertically through the rod K and laterally through the rod Q and
by the cooperation of the two each needle of the figuring frame may be brought to
the position in which it is required to penetrate the fabric. The needle bar P
is caused to advance to and recede from the fabric to form the stitches by
fingers R¹, R¹, fixed upon frames R. R. These fingers are received into longitudinal
slots in the bar P so that they in no wise interfere with the free movement of the
figuring frame.
The frames R. R. which are four in number are supported upon guide rollers
rotating in bearings fixed to the frame A. They receive rectilineal motion from
back to front of the machine from cams S S on the shaft B and springs T which
keep rollers or bowls upon the frame R constantly in contact with the cams as they
revolve.
The routine motions of the machine are as follows:-
The figuring frame having been set to its upper position by the Jacquard as
already explained the needle bar advances and passes the threads which it carries
through the fabric, it then in consequence of the formation of the cam retires a
short distance to open the loops in the needle threads and the shuttles at this
instant pass through the loops. The needles then retire and the shuttles also
return.
This occupies half a revolution of the shaft B and during the other half the
movements are repeated. The shuttle driver or cover N takes its movement by
means of the connecting rod O from the crank O¹ on the axis of the mitre wheel O³.
This wheel gears with another similar wheel and both are carried upon the figuring
frame. The axis of the last mentioned wheel enters a sleeve U with which by a
oje. V 02. Jum

page_text: :
feather it is compelled to revolve. The bearings of this sleeve are in a box which
is lifted and lowered together with the figuring frame by an arm projecting from
one of the bars C.
Within the box the sleeve has upon it a bevelled wheel gearing with a corre-
sponding wheel which is able to slide together with the box upon the vertical
shaft V which by bevelled gear as shown is driven from the shaft B.
It remains now only to describe the arrangements for the proper supply of thread
to the needles. The thread is drawn from bobbins carried in any convenient
position above the machine and every thread is wrapped around a roller W and it
is led down past bars X¹ X² to the eyes of the needles.
The proper amount of thread to be supplied for each stitch and to maintain the
proper tension of the thread whilst the figuring frame passes from place to place is
supplied by turning the roller W to a suitable extent and this is effected by the
Jacquard one dropper box of which is devoted to this purpose. The roller W as the
drawing shows is geared by bevelled wheels with a large ratchet wheel Y with the
teeth of which a pawl Y engages.
The pawl is carried by a lever Y₁ able to turn freely about the centre of the
wheel Y and connected at its upper end by a rod Z with the Jacquard and which
moves the lever to cause the requisite amount of thread to be given off, and on
the other side it is connected with a spring which brings back the lever after. its
action on the Jacquard.
Thus all the requisite power for regulating the delivery of the thread is obtained
and it is made accordant with the varying motion of the figuring frame whatever
this may be.
The roller W is carried in bearings which are mounted upon the upper ends of
the bars C C and these bars also carry a spindle a with which arms bª b³ carrying
the rod X¹ are able to rock. The same spindle has upon it an arm c connected
by a link d with one of the frames R and further there is upon the spindle a a
finger which by coming against a stop serves to limit its motion. These
contrivances are for the purpose of maintaining the proper tension of the threads 3
continuously during the movements of the needles.
As the needles withdraw from the fabric the rod X receding from the rod X'
takes up the slack of the thread which the needles leave. The rod X2 is stopped
by the finger e as the needles leave the fabric and a small slot on the upper end of
the link d prevents the further movement of the needles. When the needles 3
advance towards the fabric the rod X2 dwells for a moment and the object of
this is that the threads shall be kept perfectly taut until the points of the needles
have penetrated the fabric, otherwise the threads are liable to become displaced.
The parts of the machine which relate to the weaving of the fabric to be
ornamented are not represented in the drawing and these may be of many sorts as 4
this invention does not relate to the production of the fabric but to the subsequent
ornamentation thereof. -
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is:
First. Ornamenting mechanism consisting of a figuring frame connected with the
ordinary Jacquard mechanism and operated by it in two directions in a plane
parallel to the fabric; such figuring frame consisting of a shuttle race and needle
bar substantially as described.
-
Second. The arrangement of gear for operating the shuttles and needles carried 5
by the figuring frame whilst leaving the said frame free to be placed in any
required position relatively to the fabric to be ornamented substantially as
described.
Third. Ornamenting mechanism. consisting of a figuring frame suspended
hasiall L

page_text: with the Jacquard, the said figuring frame also receiving an endwise movement
from another and separate connection with the Jacquard substantially as described.
Fourth. The combination of figuring frame, thread mechanism and apparatus
moving and controlling the same substantially as described.
Fifth. Ornamenting mechanism substantially as herein described and represented
by the annexed Drawings.