AN IMPROVED LACE- MAKING MACHINE
Year: 1864

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Edward Gedge, of the Firm of John Gedge
and Son, of No. 11, Wellington Street, Strand, in the County of
Middlesex, Patent Agent, for the Invention of "AN IMPROVED LACE-
MAKING MACHINE." -A communication from abroad by Jaques Barrier,
of 39, Rue du Faubourg Saint Martin, Paris, France.
Sealed the 5th July 1864, and dated the 11th January 1864.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Edward Gedge
at the. Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
11th January 1864.
. I, WILLIAM EDWARD GEDGE, of the Firm of John Gedge and Son, of
No. 11, Wellington Street, Strand, in the County of Middlesex, Patent
Agent, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "AN IMPROVED
LACE-MAKING MACHINE," (a communication to me from abroad by Jaques
Barrier, of 39, Rue du Faubourg Saint Martin, Paris, France,) to be as
follows:-
The machine, the subject of this Invention, which is on a new plan and
produces lace similar to cushion made, is composed of twelve principal parts,
the arrangement of which will be best understood by reference to the annexed
Sheet of Drawing, forming part of this Provisional Specification, and which.
are,
1st, two plates A, A, which form frame and support nearly all the parts of
the loom. 2d, seven arrangements B of grooves b¹ in number proportionate
to the width of the lace. The four centre arrangements are movable and
tied two and two, the first with the third, the second with the fourth by
means of the pieces outside the plates, these groups thus united move in

page_text: contrary directions, pushed by balance angle blocks or wedges; cross pieces 6111
carry the grooves and rest on the plates A; " is a tin piece in which come
and fix the grooves b'. 3d, shuttles C carrying all the threads of which it is
intended to make the lace. 4th, balance and hooked levers D, serving to
work the shuttles, and consequently equal in number to the grooves. 5th, balance
blocks or wedges E, set in motion by the jacquart, and serving to unhook the
levers D from the shuttles; e¹¹ is the point around which pivot the blocks;
e is a stop to prevent the block E from passing beyond. 6th, a jacquart
wheel governing the movements. 7th, balance or beam G, serving to transmit
the motion received from the main shaft L to the different parts of the
apparatus. 8th, blades H, intended to retain the shuttles for a certain time in
the grooves where they have been deposited. 9th, the register or creel-
frame K of the combs to lift the meshes. 10th, shaft L receiving motion from
a crank and transmitting it to the whole apparatus. 11th, rod M intended
principally to lift the leaves or plates of the register or creel frame to the
required height, and which, by means of a heel Z, with groove, in which may
penetrate pins or studs set in. motion by the jacquart may rise to various
heights according to requirement. 12th, drum N, on which rolls the lace;
f" are rods which connect the movement of the jacquart with the blocks E.
It will be found useful to establish a second group of movable grooves to make
certain very complicated designs. The movement of this second group would
be obtained by means of inclined planes of different height and inclination
placed in front of the extremities of the group and in connection with the
jacquart. The hooked or crotchet levers may, according to the complication
of the design, draw as many as four shuttles following one another.
SPECIFICATION in. pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said William Edward Gedge in the Great Seal Patent, Office
on the 9th July 1864.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, WILLIAM
EDWARD GEDGE, of the Firm of John Gedge and Son, of No. 11, Wellington
Street, Strand, in the County of Middlesex, Patent Agent, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Eleventh day of January, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-four, in the twenty-seventh year of Her
reign, did, for Herself; Her heirs and successors, give and grant-unto me, the
said William Edward Gedge, Her special licence that I, the said William
Edward Gedge, my executors, administrators; and assigns, or such others as

page_text: I, the said William Edward Gedge, my executors, administrators, and
assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and
at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully
might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for
"AN IMPROVED LACE-MAKING MACHINE," a communication to me from abroad
by Jacques Barrier, of 39, Rue du Faubourg, Saint Martin, Paris, France,
upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said William Edward
Gedge, my executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under
my, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe
and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the
same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal
Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the date
of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said William Edward Gedge, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is
to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement, reference being had to the Sheet of Drawing hereunto
annexed and forming part of this Specification, and to the letters of reference
placed thereon:-
The improved machine which I am about to describe has twelve main
constitutive or component parts, which I will first summarily set forth and
afterwards describe in detail, setting forth their several action, they are,-
Firstly, A, iron plates carrying nearly all the parts of the machine or loom.
Secondly, B, a system of grooves in number proportionate to the breadth of
the lace to be produced, and in which slide the shuttles. Thirdly, C, shuttles
carrying all the threads of which the lace is made. Fourthly, D, balance lever
with crotchet or catch, as many being used as there are grooves, and which
serves to seize the shuttles at each periodical operation, and to bring them into
the upper grooves where they will be deposited according to the requirements
of the operation. Fifthly, E, angle blocks or peckers set in motion by the
jacquard, and which act on the crotchets, causing them to pivot and abandon
in the different groups of grooves the shuttles which they have carried. Sixthly,
F, jacquard wheel regulating the general working of the loom. Seventhly, G,
balance beam serving to transmit motion to different parts of the apparatus.
Eighthly, H, knives or blades intended to retain the shuttles during a certain
time in the grooves where they have been deposited; Ninthly, K, register or
frame of the combs for lifting the meshes; Tenthly, L, iron bar or shaft which
Eerves to set the entire apparatus in motion. Eleventhly, a rod or support

page_text: intended principally to raise the comb frames to a suitable height. Twelfthly,
N, drum on which the lace winds.
I will now describe successively and in detail each of these component
parts.
Firstly, A, plates fixed on the framing right and left of the machine, serving,
so to say, as frame to what might be termed the pigeon-holes or slips of the
lace-making machine. Secondly, B, which is thus composed, ¹, grooves
nearly resembling those used in the improved bobbin net lace frames; b, part
of the groove which is sunk in the tin or pewter; b, iron cross pieces which
carry the grooves, and the ends of which rest on the plates A, through which
they pass; 6, iron tie pieces serving to unite every other one of certain
groups of movable grooves, so that the first and the third of these groups are
tied together outside the plates A, and travel always in the same direction
left or right, and that the second and fourth equally tied together outside the
plates A also work together, but in an opposite direction to that followed by
the preceding united groups (the tie indicated by X on the Drawing does not
exist, but is here drawn in error), balance angle blocks are placed under the
convex part of the ties 6, these blocks set in motion by a tenon fixed on a
piece, tieing the two parts of the balance beam, and which are hereafter
termed the mounting pivot on their centre, and by pressing one of their
branches against the plate A force the cross pieces
to advance on their side
These groups are thus
by making them travel the thickness of a groove.
arranged: The first group is fixed, and its grooves are double the length of
those of the others, so as to be able to receive two shuttles following one
another. The second group is also fixed, but its grooves have only the ordinary
length; following this fixed group are placed four movable groups, every other
one united by the ties 6, the first and third go together and advance
towards the left the thickness of one groove when the shuttles are deposited
in the set of pigeon holes or slips; the second and the fourth, also tied together,
advance towards the right the thickness of one groove under the same circum-
stance. The set of slits or pigeon boles of the loom are terminated by a fixed
group exactly similar to the first. All the shuttles go into the first fixed
group on the return of the beam, in order that the needles or teeth of the
combs which are placed beneath this group may seize the meshes and carry
them to the proper place. The shuttles pass in the second group, which is
.also fixed when they are to play, some which are not to change position stop
in this group while the others in larger number go and place themselves in the
upper groups. The shuttles which are to change position relatively to each
:other go into the four following movable groups :-The last upper group is

page_text: intended to receive the shuttles, which having to go neither to the right or.
left the first group to permit the crossing of the shuttles which accompany,
them. Thirdly, C, shuttles nearly resembling those used in the improved
bobbin net lace frame, and which are thus composed :-c', bobbin, holding the
thread; c, carriage enclosing the bobbin, and the upper part of which is
traversed by the thread which it secures from the friction of the needles.
Fourthly, D, balance crotchet levers attached to the frame or mounting of
the beam, and which by their beaks or crotchets drag the shuttles and conduct,
them into the groups which suit them for the production of the work, these,
levers have form distinct parts, namely, the body of the lever made of steel
plate and which may draw two shuttles, the one following the other, beaks or
crotchets. serving to seize the shuttle, an inclined plane, which by its friction
on the projections of an angle block causes the lever to pivot and deposit the
shuttle in the corresponding group,-and the centre traversed by a spit which
adheres to the mounting or frame of the beam, and which serves to carry
them along. Fifthly, E, angle block or pecker thus composed:-e¹, angle
block or pecker of steel plate, placed in the grooves and balancing on a point;
el, pivot or axle of the angle block; e, spit or stop serving as rest to the
block when raised; e, projection of the blocks. These angle blocks are set
in motion by rods dependant upon the jacquard, and of which a description
will now be given. Sixthly, F, jacquard wheel set in motion by the boam, it
is thus composed in its details and accessories:-f', jacquard wheel baving the
breadth of the loom, accessory parts of the jacquard; f", movable rods tied
in the grooves by means of a special joint with the angle blocks or peckers
which they cause to move; f, fixed plate placed in front of the jacquard,
and pierced with as many holes as there are rods f", this plate serves as rest
to these same rods which come one by one, and lodge by their thinned
extremity in one of the holes which they pass through; f, movable plate
parallel with the preceding, and pierced with the same quantity of holes
traversed by the said rods, this movable plate, placed when it has worked
quite close to the fixed plate, serves to bring back the movable rods to this
latter after each periodical operation; f, tenons cut on these rods, and
which serve to bring them back. From these arrangements it will be evident
that the rods f", lifted by the jacquard will cause the pivoting of the apgle
blocks or peckers, the fall of which will permit the shuttles to pass while the
angle blocks which have not pivoted will by their projections produce all their
effect on the crotchet leyers, and consequently on the shuttles, which will then
be arranged in the proper groups. The rods f", and the angle blocks E, may
be replaced by a single rod acting directly on the balance crotchet, but in
•

page_text: opposite direction. Seventhly, G, beam, serving to transmit motion to several
parts of the apparatus, it is constructed as follows:-g', third of a wheel, the
central point of which is tied to that of the entire machine, and which is
placed on each side between the framing and the plates A. Iron cross pieces
unite at various points these two-thirds of wheels which thus form a sort of
lengthened and horizontal drum, of which two-thirds has been removed in the
direction of its diameter. This apparatus pivots on its axle and follows a
circular motion represented by half a circumference, on the different pieces
of which it is composed are fixed several inclined planes and other mechanism
necessary to the play of the loom, it is set in motion by an eccentric fixed on
the shaft L, which gives it a come-and-go motion. Eighthly, H, knives or
blades which lift between the groups of grooves as soon as the shuttles have
passed so as to prevent their sliding in the lower grooves. These knives are
uplifted by inclined planes fixed on the frame or mounting of the balance
beam, and are afterwards upheld at the requisite height by these same inclined
and extended planes until the return of the beam. Ninthly, K, comb frame
or register for raising the meshes to the requisite height, each comb frame
may contain a very large number of combs or pages which are usually divided
into several parts according to the requirements of the pattern. In the loom
illustrated on the Drawing the comb frames contain sixteen pages or combs
divided into seven sections in every way of equal size. Tenthly, L, iron bar
or shaft, the cylindrical ends of which rest upon the plates A, through which
they pass, one of its extremities is furnished with a crank, which permits the
turning of the shaft, on which is fixed, firstly, an eccentric intended to set the
beam in motion; secondly, several cams and other mechanism serving to work
the machine. Eleventhly, on a supplementary shaft (m20) are placed several
wheels (m) intended to uplift the rigid rods (m²), which are to carry the
comb in use under those which have already played, this shaft by iron bars or
arms pressing on the blade can bring it nearer to the combs when the mesh
is to be lifted. Each of the wheels carried by this shaft is constructed thus:-
On a third of its circumference as many teeth are cut as there are combs or
pages to a frame. On another third of this same circumference an inclined plane
is made, the highest part of which corresponds with the most elevated comb of
the frame, whereas its lowest part corresponds with the last comb. The wheel
may turn on the shaft which passes through it, and as the third of a revolution
suffices for the operation on the shaft and the wheel are fixed tenons which
on pressing one against the other prevent the shaft turning further than
required, when a spring fixed on the shaft brings back all the wheels to their
point of departure, that is to say, after the jacquard has given them complete

page_text: freedom. In front of each wheel, and on the same side as the teeth, is placed
a pecker or ratchet (m) which by means of the jacquard at the proper
moment causes the wheel to turn to the extent of one tooth. The rod (m³).
which is carried by this wheel then descends on the inclined plane at a second
movement of the ratchet (m), the wheel again turns the one tooth, and the
rod descends as before, all the teeth of the wheel are thus successively brought
into play, and the rods descend little by little until they arrive at the lowest
part of the inclined plane. From the above description it will be evident that
the rod uplifted by the inclined plane of the wheel will arrive at different:
beights, when an entire frame is first brought into play the rod will attain its
greatest height because it will rest on the highest part of the inclined plane,
whereas at the end of the play of this frame it will have arrived at its lowest
elevation, because it will have come on to the lowest part of this inclined
plane. Thus the first comb or page which will be brought into play will be
carried by the said rod (m³) immediately beneath the preceding register, that
is to say, at the greatest height after five or six periodical operations, the
second comb will be carried under the first by the rod (m), which for this
purpose will be previously lowered on the inclined plane to the extent of the
thickness of one page or comb represented in this instance by one tooth, all
the crumbs will thus arrive successively at the required height always by means.
of the inclined plane. The combs after the lifting of tho mesh are arrested
by a special mechanism placed in the interior of the combs, and which I will
now describe. In a sort of sheet-iron box (K20) is a rod (K"), the lower
extremity of which is furnished with a spring termed umbrella spring, and
which may partially project from the box through a slot in its front, a second
spring (K) placed under this rod pushes it constantly upwards at the upper
part of this box, and at its back is a tenon which in pressing on one of the
upper frames fixes the box (K) in the interior of the combs which have been:
previously cut or divided. When a comb frame is entirely filled with meshes
the spring (K) finds itself placed under the last comb of the frame, and the
highest comb of the frame which is about to play is placed in front of the thin
part of the shuttles. If the machine is then set at work the rod (m³) will
carry the said comb under the last of the preceding frame, and an instant
afterwards the same comb being fixed by no stop will fall again in front of
the shuttles. When the mesh is completed the comb which carries it will be
spring (K) in the following
fixed beneath under the preceding frame by the
manner: A rod (K2), set in motion by the jacquard, will at the proper
moment push from top to bottom the rod (K), on which is fixed the.
spring (K), which will then abandon the comb which has already been

page_text: brought into play, and come and place itself under the acting comb, an instant
afterwards the rod (K") being no longer pushed by the rod (K), but solely by
the spring (K) will rise again and force the umbrella spring (K) to come and
place itself immediately under the comb which has just lifted the last made
meshes. By this means the said spring (K) will successively fix all the
combs as fast as they will have lifted the meshes. Thus a great number of
combs might be. lifted without any complication. The registers or comb
frames of this loom each contain sixteen pages or combs. The combs of the
frame which is about to play are quite at the lowest point of the journey, and
out of reach of the rods (m), and to place them successively in the power
of these rods there is continued in the interior of the combs small openings or
cuts so made that when all the combs are the one on the other, the cut parts
represent the steps of a staircase. A rod (K2) set in motion by the jacquard
comes at the desired moment and uplifts the corresponding comb, thus under
each step of the staircase is placed a jacquard rod which places it within reach
of the rod (m) at the requisite moment. All these rods may be replaced by
a single one, care being taken to place it so that by its weight or by a spring
it is always obliged to press against the highest comb. A small tenon (K),
placed at the upper part and beneath the comb, will in rising uplift the
highest comb, and thus bring it into play. The rod (K2) being forced to
press constantly against the highest comb of the group, can lift this comb only
because the small tenon. (K28) cannot reach the comb which is immediately
beneath it, and can only uplift it when the preceding comb has played. It is
well here to observe that this tenon (K28) should not have more than about
the of an inch in length, and that the part of the combs cut into staircase
should be of no greater extent, otherwise the tenon (K2) would reach the
second comb and uplift it at the same time as the first. The mechanism for
arresting the combs being somewhat complicated and slight it might in certain
cases be simplified as follows:-The sheet-iron. box (K) would be suppressed
and the spring (K2) would be fixed on the rod (K2) which a spring (K)
would push upwards. On a register or comb frame entering into play this rod
(K2) directed by the jacquard would enter into the interior of the entire group
of combs already used, and at each final ascension of the comb the same rod
would always, actuated by the jacquard, carry its spring (K) under this comb
which would thus find itself fixed. When all the combs of this register or
frame will have completed their task, the rod (K2) pivoting slightly away
will abandon the comb frames, moving far enough from them to permit the
highest actuated by the jacquard to descend and place itself beneath the comb
last in play, which being done the rod (K) will penetrate again into the

page_text: interior of the combs, and the pages or combs will be successively stopped as
already stated.
At the moment of the retreat of the rods (K2) it would be
useful if the rods (K2), which have uplifted the entire group of comb frames,
could not descend before the return of these rods (K2), in order that the combs
which have played may not be abandoned. This result would be easily
obtained in fixing the rods (m) by means of the jacquard until the rods (K25)
re-enter into play. These last rods (K2) would be movable in a frame on
which would be placed the spring (K2), and all the frames would be fixed
on a transversal bar, which the jacquard would set in motion according to the
requirements of the work. Twelfthly, N, drum on which rolls or winds the
lace. To end the point at the purl of the lace then is fixed at the side of
the needle which has lifted it, another needle a little shorter, on which the
point is then made to slide, causing it to take the required eye or mail. If
the play of each piece be attentively examined it will be evident that when
the beam is about to resume its upward movement, the important parts of the
loom find themselves situated as follows:-The shuttles are placed at the
extremity of the first fixed group, the comb has been carried by the rod 'm³
under those which have already played, the wheel of the jacquard presses against
the fixed plate fun, and by the rods f" causes the pivoting of the angle blocks
which are not to stop the shuttles; lastly, the blades H are lowered. If then
the beam is made to move to the left, the balance levers seize with their hook
or crotchet the first shuttle and conduct it into one of the upper groups. The
inclined plane of these levers meeting on its journey the projection of an angle
block, will force the lever to abandon this shuttle in the corresponding group.
The beam in continuing its circular journey will necessarily continue to carry
on the lever, the crotchets of which will seize the second shuttle and conduct it
towards the upper grooves until meeting another angle block it abandons it
in its proper group, nevertheless, this last shuttle will occasionally rise into
the last fixed group as already stated as fast as the shuttles stop in.the. grooves
the corresponding knives lift and prevent the shuttles from sliding into the
lower groups. As soon as the beam has caused to issue from the movable
groups the shuttles which it is to carry into the last fixed group, the angle
blocks will move the cross pieces bun, and draw towards the left the first and
third groups, while the second and fourth will be drawn to the right, therefore
as each group carries the shuttles which have been deposited in it, it will be
readily understood how the shuttles cross each other. This crossing displaces
them about the thickness of two grooves in relation the one to the other. Thus
the first movement of the beam places each shuttle in its group, the second
causes the descent of the rod m³ usually with the comb, the third effects the

page_text: crossing of the threads by causing the cross pieces 11 to move, and the fourth
'pushes back and turns the jacquard wheel which carries with it the cards.
These movements ended, the beam retires on itself, causes the knives to lower
and brings back the shuttles towards the first fixed groups in pushing them by
their base. Here the threads present themselves crossed for the requirements
of the operation, then the cross pieces 6, are brought back to their first
position by angle blocks or peckers playing in a contrary direction, the rods f¹¹,
are also brought back to their point of departure; and lastly, the rod m²³
uplifts the comb which is in play, and carries it under the preceding combs.
I would here observe that it would be useful to establish a second group of
movable grooves when certain very complicated designs are to be executed, in
which case the new group would serve according to the requirements of the
pattern to cross certain shuttles the thickness of several grooves. To obtain
this result it would suffice to establish in front of the extremities of this group
several inclined planes, all having different heights or inclinations. When,
for example, it might be desired to cause a shuttle to travel the thickness or
a distance of eight grooves, a rod from the jacquard would move at the proper
time the inclined plane corresponding with this journey, and the shuttle would
thereupon be transported to the proper place. This new group of grooves
would be placed between the four movable groups and receive the shuttles, of
which a corresponding series of angle blocks or peckers E would cause the
deposit. It would then be brought back to its point of departure in the same
manner as the movable groups. In the loom just described the crotchets or
.hooked levers are to carry at most but two shuttles at a time, but for the
'requirements of certain patterns sufficient length must be given to these levers
that they may drag three and even four shuttles at a time, following each
other, in which case the two fixed groups must be longer than those of this
loom, it will also be necessary to increase the number of the movable groups.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Edward Gedge, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, this Ninth day of July, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-four.
W. E. GEDGE. (L.S.)