A New METHOD OF MANUFACTURING WOVEN FABRICS
Year: 1866

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Eugène Burle, of Vienne, Department of the Isère,
in the Empire of France, Engineer, for the Invention of "A New
METHOD OF MANUFACTURING WOVEN FABRICS."
Sealed the 16th October 1866, and dated the 24th April 1866.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Eugène Burle at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
24th April 1866.
I, EUGÈNE BURLE, of Vienne, Department of the Isère, in the Empire of
France, Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "A
NEW METHOD OF MANUFACTURING WOVEN FABRICS," to be as follows:-
It is well known that the majority of fabrics woven with various patterns
or designs, and called fancy goods, are manufactured on the jacquard loom pro-
perly so called, the setting up of which is difficult and costly, and the results to
be obtained from which are proportionately limited. I propose, on the contrary,
to obtain in very simple looms the means of making an infinite number of
patterns or designs, and this by means of threads which do not work, or rather
which are not previously.combined either into warp or woof, but which by the
aid of supplementary healds ride at will in a direct line to the right, to the

page_text: left obliquely, and in every direction according to the arrangements fixed upon.
The riding of the threads which are to produce the effects, may take place at
will on one or several ground threads without in any way hindering the march
of these ground or foundation threads. Having for example a warp of one
design or pattern thread and three ground threads, the four threads united at
the sley in a single reed, the left design or pattern thread is placed in an
ordinary heald. At the right of the four threads is the supplementary heald,
which, simple and without any eye or mail, carries at the height of the pass
or fulling a heald end terminated by an eye or mail. If the pattern thread
must remain in its place at the left of the reed the supplementary heald does
not act, and in no way hinders its journey, nor that of the three ground
threads. If, on the contrary, the pattern thread must pass from the left to
the right, then the ordinary left heald rises, and the supplementary heald on
the contrary lowers and forces the pattern thread to pass to the right, where
it is tied by the woof. As this movement of the pattern thread, lifted by one
heald and brought down by the other, employs a greater length of thread than
the normal position, a compensator is placed at the back of the loom. It
will be understood that the pattern threads are mounted on a separate beam.
As regards the results, they are not only susceptible of infinite variation, but
further they present great strength, as the threads in question go from the
right to the wrong side and form one body with the fabric. The arrangement
of the healds presents no difficulty. I commence by making and calculating
the pattern to be produced, and then regulate the number of healds accord-
ingly, it being understood that each pattern thread employs one ground and
ane supplementary heald. According to requirement I double the threads,
use mixed or many-coloured threads, thicker or finer ones twisted or not of
the same colour, of various colours, in fact any sort of thread.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Eugène Burle in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
16th October 1866.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, EUGÈNE
BURLE, of Vienne, Department of the Isère, in the Empire of France, Engineer,
send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-fourth day of April, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-six, in the twenty-ninth year of Her

page_text: reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me,
the said Eugène Burle, Her special licence that I, the said Eugène Burle, my
executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Eugène
Burle, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree.with
and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the term
therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend,
within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands,
and Isle of Man, an Invention for "A NEW METHOD OF MANUFACTURING WOVEN
FABRICS," upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said Eugène Burle,
my executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or
their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and
ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same
was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal
Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the date
of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Eugène Burle, do hereby declare
the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement, reference being had to the Sheet of Drawing hereunto
annexed, and forming part of this my Specification, and to the figures and
letters of reference placed thereon:-
My Invention consists in a new method of manufacturing those woven
fabrics termed novelties or fancy goods. It is known that the majority of
these stuffs are manufactured by means of the looms known as jacquard
looms, the setting up of which is difficult and costly. Now by means of
threads which work independently of the warp or of the woof threads I am
enabled to make on very simple looms patterns or designs of an almost
endless variety. These threads, by means of supplementary healds working
from top to bottom, ride from right to left in a straight or in an oblique line,
without interfering in any way with the ground or bottom threads of the
fabric.
Given, as at Figure I. of the annexed Drawing, a warping of one design, or
pattern thread, and three ground threads united in a single aperture of the
sley. These threads being entered commencing by the left the pattern thread
N, N, N, in the ordinary heald 2, 25, the three ground threads O, Q,.0,
enter the healds 3, 3, 4, 4, 5, 5. In all the Figures C indicates the eye or
mail of the heald 2, 2'; D, that of the heald 3, 35; E, that of the heald
4, 4; and F, that of the heald 5, 5'. The supplementary heald is at the
right and has no mail or eye, but it carries at the height of the pass at the

page_text: point A a heald end terminated by a mail B. The pattern thread after having.
been entered on the left into the heald 2, '2', enters the mail B of the supple-:
mentary heald 1, 1. The loom thus set up the pattern thread may at will,
enter into its place at the left of the three ground threads, and follow the
same course as these latter by means of the heald 2, 25, or by means of the
supplementary heald 1, 1, come to the right of the three ground threads,
describing on these three threads either a right or an oblique line.
Figure II. represents the ground threads working while the pattern thread
remains at the left of the three ground threads. In this case the healds 1, 1,
and 2, 2, remain in their normal position when at rest. The healds 3, 3,
4, 4, which conduct ground threads rise, and the heald 5, 5, remains seized.
The two ground threads conducted by the bealds 3, 3, and 4, 4, are in no.
wise bindered in their working by the supplementary heald, because the
point of attachment of the heald end to the supplementary heald being at the
point A, the ground threads conducted by the healds 3, 35, 4, 4, find them-
selves between the vertical part 1, 1, of the supplementary heald and the
heald end A, B.
In Figure III. the pattern thread works always on the left of the ground
threads. In this case the supplementary heald 1, 1, is still at rest. The
heald 2, 2, conducting the pattern thread on the left, and the bealds '3, 3,
Neither the pattern thread nor
and 4, 4, conducting ground threads lift.
the ground threads are hindered. The heald end A, B, finding itself removed
by the pattern thread floats about without in any way hindering it.
In Figure IV. the pattern thread on the left of the ground threads passes to
the right. In this case the heald 2, 25, and the healds 3, 3, 4, 4, and 5, 5,
lift, while the supplementary heald lowers, until the mail B finds itself .level
with the threads which are at rest. Then the shuttle conducting the woof
or tram passing under the ground threads, and on the pattern thread drawn
to the right by the supplementary heald, ties this pattern thread, which will
have passed on the three warp threads. By continuing the lifting of the heald
2, 2, and the lowering of the heald 1, 1, the working of the pattern thread
on the right of the three ground threads is maintained. If it is desired that
the pattern thread should repass to the left of the ground threads the supple-
The movement of the
mentary heald 1, 1, must no longer be lowered.
pattern thread lifted by the heald 2, 2, and lowered by the heald..1, 1
expending a greater length of thread than the normal tension, these pattern
threads must have a compensator. I have obtained this compensator in the
"following manner:-The ground threads are mounted on the roller M, while
the pattern thread mounted on the roller: L passes on the glass rods I and J,

page_text: supported by the wooden frames G, H. In its journey from the rod I to the
rod J the pattern thread passes through an eye or mail K, to which is
suspended a weight, the purpose of which is to keep the tension of the pattern
thread always equal. Instead of hanging a weight to each mail, I by means
of healds fix these mails K to an iron rod, which, acting on all the threads,
keeps them always at an equal tension. When the pattern heald 1, 1, must
lower the iron rod carrying the mail K is lifted sufficiently to furnish a
length of thread equal to that expended between the mail C of the heald 2,2',
and the mail B of the supplementary heald 1,1%, as may be seen at
Figure IV. As soon as the supplementary heald 1, 1', has returned to its
normal position the iron rod falls again and by its weight gives the requisite
tension to the pattern threads.
The preceding description will have given a complete idea of the new
method of working in question. It will be understood that according to the
designs or patterns to be obtained I use a greater or lesser number of pattern
threads working all together or conducted by several lifting blades, and that
the compensator must carry as many iron rods furnished with mails as there
are lifting blades of pattern healds, and that each rod must carry the threads
entered on the lifting blades which are to be compensated.
I reserve the use of every sort of thread in all kinds of fabrics.
Not only do I claim the effect produced by the method I have described,
but also all the modifications which may be made in my new method.
In witness whereof, I, the said Eugène Burle, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Thirteenth day of October, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-six.
חזהזזת המת
EUGENE BURLE. (..)