Year: 1889

page_text: I, HERMANN HARTIG, of the City of Kaendler, in the Kingdom of Saxony, German
Empire, Gentleman, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement :-
In order to produce tambour and ornamental stitching by means of sewing machines
with circular needle I provide the several special arrangements shewn in the drawings
herewith and explained in the following:
In Figs. 1 & 2 the vertical needle a is shewn in the act of moving downwards its
point having got beneath the circular noedle b, which is just on the point of moving
round towards the left for the purpose of laying its thread round the vertical needle.
In this movement I bring a loop-hook into action which is one of the con-
trivances I employ for the purpose of adapting the machine for ornamental work
according to my invention. When the circular needle moves round to the left
it lays its thread not only round the needle a but also round the loop-hook c
Figs. 3 & 4.
The loop-hook & is shewn in the drawings as coming into action from underneath,
but I wish it to be understood that I can equally well arrange it to come into action
from above.
The needle a next commences to move upwards, the circular needle at the
same time moving back towards the right, thereby entering the loop formed by the
needle a Fig. 5.
At the moment when the circular needle commences its movement to the right, the
slide the second special contrivance according to my invention, pushes against the

page_text: under thread y Fig. 7 holding it while the circular needle travels round towards the
right and while the vertical needle rises.
As soon as the vertical needle is raised clear of the material Fig. 7 & 8 and its thread
has been tightened in the usual way, then the loop-hook goes back to its position of
rest, the loop as may be seen in Fig. 7 being now held by the tightened thread z. The
slide however, must retain its hold of the thread y until the circular needle has laid
another loop round the loop-hook c as in Fig. 4, in which however the slide, for
purposes of clearness, is not shewn.
In this manner the loop-hook e produces a loop to the right while the slide pro-
duces a loop to the left, the ornamental stitch produced being such as shewn in Fig. 9.
1 can alter the size of the loop by altering the distance of the loop-hook from the
vertical needle and by altering the slide distance of the slide f
As I have explained already it is the loop-hook which forms the loops on one
side and the slide which forms the loops on the opposite side, which circumstance I
can make use of in making a one-loop stitch by utilizing only one of the said con-
trivances at a time. The stitch thus produced is shewn in Fig. 10, a more ornamental
appearance being given to it by placing two one-loop stitchings alongside of each
other.
The contrivance for making the loops I also can connect with machines other than
those which work with a circular needle, namely such as work with a horizontal,
straight under needle as shewn in Fig. 20. Here the slide 7 stops the thread <
of the needle thus forming the loop.
A double loop stitching, the firmness and width of which is greater than the one
shewn in Fig. 9 is obtained by using two or more vertical needles but only one circular
needle. In Figs. 11 & 12 are shewn two needles by means of which the stitch shewn
in Fig. 13 is formed. In this case there is required, however, in addition to the loop-
hook c and slide falready described, a loop-holder g which, when the needle stands
above, clear of the material, is pushed in front of the thread of the circular needle and
moves backwards with that in the direction of the arrow so that the thread is laid
round the vertical needles which are in the meantime pushing downwards, and when
fully down the loop-holder goes back. to its original position. If the same loop-holder
was not provided, then the thrend from the circular needle would pass between the
two vertical needles, as shewn in a dotted line in Fig. 12, or it might come to lie
altogether behind the needles. In such case the stitches fail to inter-lock and may be
unravelled as shewn by h, hi, Fig. 13. The loop-holder thus ensures the inter-locking
of the stitches and by working the said loop-holder in a suitable manner the thread
can be laid either round one needle only such as Fig. 13 or round two needles
such as Fig. 13 or if three or more needles were required it may be made to lay
the thread round some or all of them.
!
The needles in order that their loops be caught must be placed within a circumference
bordered by the inner periphery of the circular needle. When the circular needle'is
placed in such a manner that the vertical needles are in the position shewn in Fig. 14,
the line m indicating the direction in which the material moves, then the stitching
produced is as shown in Fig. 13 the loops being at right angles to the length' of the
stitching. When the vertical needles are in the position shewn in Fig. 15, the
line m again indicating the direction of the stitching; then the stitching shown in
Fig. 16 is produced, in which the loops are at acute angles. In the stitching shewn
in Fig. 16 the loop-former e and the slide have not been in use, but by application of
both the said stitching would be provided with side loops.
The character of this ornamental stitching may also be regulated by the shape
given to the hole penetrated by the needles.
F
In order to produce the stitching shewn in Figs. 9, 10 & 13 it is requisite to
make the hole penetrated by the needles wide, as shewn' in Fig. 17 so that the
loops may pass freely through the said hole. Or when I give the hole the shape as
in Fig. 18 and only use one needle and one loop-former, no matter which, then the
loop produced is stretched, one, two or three stitch lengths, the needle in due course
piercing and fastening the loops, Fig. 19.

page_text: Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said Inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
Adapting circular needle and similar sewing machines for ornamental stitching by
adding to the ordinary mechanisms a loop-holder g, which lays the thread round one
or more vertical needles, such loop-holder working either independantly or in connection
with loop-formers c and f, or either of them, substantially in the manner described and
shewn in the drawings.
HERMANN HARTIG.
Per C. R. Bonne & Co.,
His Agents.