IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES
Year: 1855

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Smith, of No. 10, Salisbury Street, Adelphi,
Civil Engineer, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES."
A communication.
Sealed the 18th April 1856, and dated the 19th October 1855.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Smith at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 19th
October 1855.
I, WILLIAM SMITH, of No. 10, Salisbury Street, Adelphi, Civil Engineer,
do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
SEWING MACHINES," a communication from a foreigner residing abroad, to be
as follows:-
My Invention consists in improvements in sewing machines, resulting, when
combined according to my Invention, in a complete sewing machine, having
many advantages over those now in use, as they will comprise in their
integral parts sundry new and valuable improvements, which I proceed to
separately describe;
The first portion of my said improvements consists in producing the stitch'
in fabrics known generally as the lock stitch (similar to that of shuttle
machines), by means of an encased or sheathed spool or bobbin, caused to
revolve horizontally, while the needle bar has a vertical movement. The said
[Price Sd.]

page_text: spool with its case revolves in a holder so constructed as not to interfere
with the needle thread. The spool, sheath, or case is a hollow box, of steel
or other suitable material, having teeth in its outer edge. It has also in its
edge a nose, like that of the shuttle in ordinary shuttle sewing machines,
-the-said nose being arranged in such a manner, that as the case revolves the
needle thread passes perfectly free. The spool and its case when adjusted
form one, revolving together. Radiating from the centre of the spool is an
arm, whose movement is entirely independent of the spool or its case, the
movement being given by the spool thread, which passes from the said spool
through a hole at the end of the arm, and thence through another hole in
the centre of the spool cap. The spool together with its case is caused to
revolve by means of teeth on the periphery of the spool case, gearing into
the teeth of a wheel on a shaft, which has an irregular or differential
revolving motion given to it by means of an elliptical toothed wheel, which
gears into a similar wheel on a driving shaft, thus causing the spool with its
case to turn in such a manner, that in some portions of a complete revolution
it turns-faster than at others, causing a dwell or hesitation, which, in con-
junction with the movement of the needle, effects a full and complete stitch.
My Invention further comprises the adaptation of an auxiliary lever,
operated by a peculiarly shaped case, for the purpose of taking up the excess
of slack in the needle thread independent of the motion of the needle,
thereby requiring the vertical motion of the needle to be considerably less
than that of ordinary sewing machines, and consequently resulting in a
greater amount of speed being attained.
My Invention further comprises an apparatus which can also be attached
to any ordinary sewing machine for cording the edges of fabrics. It serves
effectually to keep the cord in its place within the hem of the fabric while
the latter is being operated by the needle and thread, being arranged so
that a knot in the cord or inequality in the edge of the fabric will not
impede the
of
progress the work; also, an apparatus, somewhat differently
arranged, for feeding and guiding the bindings to be laid over and sewed
upon the edges of the articles sewn.
My Invention further comprises the driving simultaneously two or more
vertical needles by the same machine, so that at one feeding along of the
material sewn there can be two or more parallel rows of sewing executed
at the same time, which rows may be at varying distances apart from each
other, according to the arrangement of the needles. This portion of my
In-
vention is equally applicable to the circular-needle or loop-stitch machines,
and to the ordinary shuttle machines, as well as to my above-described

page_text: machine; and, while I claim the application of this part of my Invention to all
or either of the foregoing mentioned machines, I further describe that a series
of new and valuable varieties of stitch are thereby produced, especially when
used in combination with the first-mentioned of these (circular needle or
loop-stitch machines), which stitches so produced are particularly the result
of my Invention, no less than the apparatus by which they are executed.
My Invention comprising the foregoing valuable improvements affords the
following advantages over those machines heretofore used, viz. :-
By means of the peculiar construction of the spool and the spool case
the advantage is obtained of having a greater amount of spool thread than
can be wound or carried on the spools or bobbins of other lock-stitch
machines, they being limited, so far as I have ever known, to a quantity of
sixty yards at the most, while on my spool can be wound and worked two to
four hundred yards, according to the size of the thread.
Another advantage obtained by the use of my encased spoolarrangementis,
the regular delivery at an uniform tension of the spool thread, caused by the
radiating arm having a motion independent of that of the spool case.
And another advantage of the same is, the facility with which the spool
can be removed to renew the thread without removing the case. This
advantage will be apparent when it is remembered that the entire shuttle
of ordinary sewing machines has to be removed for this purpose. The
difficulties attending the use of front and back drivers of the shuttles of
ordinary machines, as heretofore used, are likewise avoided, inasmuch as my
revolving spool and case require no drivers other than the teeth on the wheels,
before mentioned, and on the spool case, which are so arranged as to present
no interference with its threads.
The advantages obtained by the use of the auxiliary lever are, that it
enables more spool thread to be passed through the loop of the needle thread,
and again to enable the needle bar to bring it tight into the fabric, at a motion
of the needle, little more than half that required in ordinary sewing machines.
All the motion required of the needle by my arrangement is just sufficient
to enable the loop to be formed, and the required feed to be given, the
auxiliary lever serving to complete the stitch, which in other machines is
performed by a lengthened lift of the needle; I thus obtain a largely
increased rate of speed. The advantage of continuous self-feeding of cords
and bindings into and upon the edges of articles sewn are self-apparent to all
conversant with this class of machinery. The advantages obtained by driving
several vertical needles at once are, the much greater amount of sewing that
can be performed with the same time and labor, while the greater exactness

page_text: and regularity of the parallels in the rows or seams of sewings are particularly.
serviceable for much of the work done in gaiter and shoe making, as well as,
other sorts of work, while new varieties of stitch are produced; some of which
are very, serviceable in ornamental works. All of, these various combinations
also give greater clasticity to the-seam.
the
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said William Smith in the Great Seal Patent Office on
19th April 1856.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, WILLIAM
SMITH, of No. 10, Salisbury Street, Adelphi, Civil Engineer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Nineteenth day of October, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-five, in the nineteenth year of
Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me,
the said William Smith, Her special licence that I, the said William Smith,
my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said
William Smith, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any
time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter
during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use,
exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland,
the Chaunel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
SEWING MACHINES," a communication, upon the condition (amongst others) that
I, the said William Smith, my executors or administrators, by an instrument
in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should parti-
cularly, describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what
manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the
Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately
after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YF, that I, the said William Smith, do hereby declare
the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:
This Invention (as communicated to me) relates to certain improvements in
sewing machines, as herein described under the several heads as follows:-
Firstly, in producing the stitch known as "the lock stitch," by means of an
encased spool or bobbin, caused to revolve horizontally on its own centre or

page_text: axis (without a reciprocal motion in the line of its axis) in connection with
a needle having a vertical movement. The said spool rests and revolves on a
ledge in a spool case holder, the ledge as well as spool case being so con-
structed as not to interfere with the needle thread. The spool case isa.circular
hollow box of steel or other suitable material, having teeth on its outer edge.
It has also on its edge a nose for catching the needle thread, resembling the nose
of the shuttle of ordinary "shuttle sewing machines," the nose being arranged
in connection with the before-mentioned ledge in such a manner that as the
case revolves the needle thread passes perfectly free. The spool is placed
within the case in such a manner that both revolve together, and radiating
from the centre of the spool is placed an arm, the movement of which is
entirely independent of the spool or case; this movement being given by the
spool thread, which passes from the said spool through a hole at the end of the
arm, and thence through another hole in the centre of the spool-cap towards
the material to be operated upon. The spool case with its spool is caused to
revolve on the ledge within the holder by means of the teeth on the periphery.
of the case gearing into the teeth of a wheel on a vertical shaft, which has an
irregular or differential motion given to it by means of an elliptical toothed
wheel which gears into a similar wheel on the driving shaft, thus causing the
spool case and spool to turn in such a manner, that in some portions of a com-
plete revolution it turns faster than at others, causing a dwell or hesitation,
which, in' conjunction with the movement of the needle, effects a full and
complete stitch.
Secondly, in driving a spool case, somewhat similar to that before described,
by placing the same in a stationary holder within a cylindrical driver, the
latter being eccentric with the former. In the cylindrical driver are teeth,
which as the same revolve catch alternately into recesses on the edge of the
spool case, causing the latter to revolve, and at the same time allowing
sufficient room for the movements of the needle and its thread, and also in
connecting a lever to the stationary spool case holder in such a manner, that,
by the action of a cam on the driver on one arm of the said lever, the other
arm which is hooked catches the needle thread and holds the same, while the
spool, by means of the nose upon it, enters and turns itself through the loop,
the thread being released from the hook when the spool case is in a proper
position for, the loop to escape. The whole, when thus arranged and con-
structed, simplifies the mode of driving the spool case described under the first
head, reducing the friction so as to allow the machine to be driven at a higher
speed and with less liability to break the thread.
Thirdly, in the adaptation of an auxiliary lever, operated by a peculiarly

page_text: shaped cam on the driving shaft, for the purpose of taking up the excess of
slack in the needle thread independently of the motion of the needle, thereby
requiring the vertical movement of the needle to be considerably less than that
of ordinary sewing machines, and consequently resulting in a greater speed
being attained.
Fourthly, in an apparatus for cording the edges of fabrics and materials,
which may be attached to any ordinary sewing machine, and serves effectually
to keep the cord in its place within the hem of the article to be sewn while
the latter is being operated on by the needle and thread, being also arranged so
that any ordinary knot in the cord or irregularity in the edge of the fabric will
not impede the progress of the work; also, an apparatus for guiding and feeding
the bindings to be laid over and sewn upon the edges of similar articles.
Fifthly, in arrangements for driving simultaneously two or more vertical
needles by the same machine, so that at one feeding along of the article to be
sewn, two or more parallel rows of stitching can be executed at the same
time. The rows may be varied in their distances apart from each other by
varying the position of the needles. These arrangements are applicable to
circular-needle or loop-stitch machines, and to shuttle machines, as well as
to the before-described machines, and by their operation and combination,
according to some of the methods herein represented, a series of new and
valuable varieties of stitch can be produced, which varieties of stitch are
particularly the result of this Invention, no less than the apparatus by which
they are produced.
Sixthly, in the combination of a portion of the last-mentioned arrangement
with an improved feed apparatus, whereby the notch feed bar is kept con
stantly in a level position throughout its movement, and the necessary move-
ments for stitching and feeding are comprised within a smaller space and
more convenient form at the stitching end of the machine, so that they may
be operated in a cylindrical-shaped case, by which improvement many descrip-
tions of work can be more rapidly and conveniently done, while the inachine
altogether is made more simple, and at the same time is applicable to general
descriptions of work to which sewing machines are applied.
Lastly, in an improved tension and delivery of the thread from the spools
for the vertical or any other needles requiring to be fed from spools, being
another application of the same principle as is used in the within-described
encased spools for under side threads.
I now proceed to describe the construction and operation of the several
parts of this Invention, and by reference to the accompanying five Sheets of
Drawings in connection with the following description these improvements

page_text: may be clearly understood. The same letters and figures of reference are
used to represent the same parts in each Figure having reference to the
same machine.
The first part of the said improvements is represented in Figs. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5
of Sheet 1 of the accompanying Drawings.
Fig. 1 is a transverse sectional elevation of the machine; Fig. 2, sectional
plan; on the line A, B; Fig. 3, ditto, ditto, above the line C, D; Fig. 4,
detached section, shewing the spool case and spool case holder; Fig. 5, detached
plan of the spool case and spool cap.
Below
A represents the framework of the machine. The vertical driving shaft B
is caused to revolve in bearings in the frame A by means of a band passing
round a fly wheel, situated in any adjacent convenient position, and round
the grooved pullies C, both pulley and wheel being marked C; the balance
wheel D on the same shaft serves to equalize the motion of the same.
the balance wheel is keyed the elliptical toothed wheel E, gearing into a similar
wheel F (which may be seen represented in plan in red lines in Fig. 3) on a
second vertical shaft G; this last has likewise its bearings in the frame A, and
has, by means of the elliptical wheels, a differential or unequally revolving
motion imparted to it. At the top of the shaft G outside the frame A is
secured the cog wheel H, which has at one point in its periphery a portion
of the teeth cut away at h, and near to the portion thus cut away it has one
of its teeth i lengthened, for a purpose hereafter shewn. The teeth of the
wheel H gear into teeth on the exterior of the spool case I, which is a hollow
box of steel, the bottom resting and revolving on the ledge K within the
holder J, the latter being permanently secured to the frame A of the machine.
It will be seen, on reference to the detached Figures 4 and 5, that the spool
case 1 has a point or nose L formed on its outside edge, interrupting the teeth
on the same; this interruption corresponds with the portion of the wheel H
where the teeth are cut away, so that no impediment may be offered to the
free movement of both wheels; the lengthened tooth i meeting,a correspond-
ing recess in the outside edge of the spool case, giving further security to
the due performance of the said movement. In front of the spool case
holder J, and directly under the needle, is a slot or recess to allow the said
needle to move freely therein. Within the case I is placed the spool M,
projections on which fit into corresponding spaces in the spool case, so that
the spool may easily be removed, but when in its proper position cannot turn
round independent of the case. On the top of the spool M is the radiating
arm N, which is so constructed as to freely turn round on a pin screwed
into the centre of the spool, this radial movement being entirely independent

page_text: of the motion of the spool or spool'case. The radiating arm N has a slight
friction or drag given to it by means of the centre screw, by turning which
the friction may be increased or diminished at pleasure; the thread from the
spool passes through a hole at the end of the radial arm, and is thence
directed to another small hole in the cap C of the spool case, this hole being
placed directly over the centre of the spool; the thread then passes between
the cap O and the stationary cap P towards the material to be operated upon.
The serrated feed wheel 6 (similar to that used in other sewing machines)
is supported by and revolves upon a stud screwed to the frame, and has at the
back a toothed wheel 7 gearing into a pinion S on the horizontal shaft 9; the
latter is actuated by means of the cam 13 on the upright driving shaft
B, the pin 14 on the lever 11 bearing against the incline on the cam, and
causing the catch 12 to operate the notched wheel 10 on the shaft 9, and
thereby producing the required feed motion; a spiral spring attached to the
end of the lever serves to hold the latter against the incline on the cam. The
adjustable piece 15, against a projection of which the end of the lever is
brought on its downward movement, serves to vary the rate of feed. On the
shaft B a scroll cam Q is arranged to operate the lever R by means of the
conical roller S, which works within the grooves of the cam; this lever has
its fulcrum on pins T screwed to the frame of the mach ine. The end of the
long arm of this lever is attached to the lower end of the connecting rod U
by means of a ball and socket joint, another joint serving to connect the upper
ond of the same rod to the needle bar V, which has a hooked piece t at the
top for guiding the needle thread, and at the bottom a needle of the descrip-
tion commonly used in sewing machines. Above the scroll cam Q, and
attached to the same shaft B, is an horizontal cam W, (the outline shape of
which is shewn in red lines in Fig. 2.) By means of the spiral spring x the
roller on the end of the bell-crauk lever X is caused to bear against the edge
of the cam W; the lever X has its fulcrum on pins Y screwed to the frame
of the machine, and the long arm has its end turned upwards; through this
upturned end of this lever is passed the needle thread towards a hole in
the hooked top of the needle bar, and through this towards the needle in
another direction to the spool Z, from whence the supply is drawn; a slight
friction is imparted to the spool by means of the set screws, as it turns on a
spindle projecting from the bracket 2 attached to the frame.

page_text: holder J, and a loop being formed in the thread by means of the needle
rising a little after having descended to its lowest point, the nose I on the
exterior of the spool case holder catches the said loop, and revolves with the
spool case in the direction of the arrow at an increased speed, caused by
the peculiar arrangement of the elliptical wheels E and F, while the spool
case thus moves round to a distance of two-thirds of an entire revolution; the
needle, through the form of the scroll cam Q, remains stationary. The spool
case having now arrived at the position shewn in Figure 5, or, (as before
remarked, having performed two-thirds of its revolution,)itcontinues to travel
the remaining one-third at a reduced speed, allowing the needle to rise, the
feed motion to operate, and the needle again to descend, forming another loop
preparatory to commencing another revolution.
In order, however, to thoroughly understand the operation of the machine,
it will be necessary again to return to the position from whence we started,
that is, with the needle descended. As the nose L on the exterior of the
spool case carries the needle thread round, it will be seen that the said thread
must be delivered at a speed and in a quantity commensurate with the
distance moved. This is effected by means of the auxiliary lever X, which
as the thread is being carried round has its long arm raised, and allows the
thread to move freely, but without any slack, until the nose L has carried it
round to the point furthest from the needle, when the lever X is caused
to descend, taking up the thread which would otherwise become slack on
the further movement of the spool case. The lever X, however, is so
arranged in conjunction with the movement of the needle, that it ceases
to descend before the needle has finished its upward motion, in order that
the movement of the lever X and that of the needle may not cease at
the same time, otherwise a double jerk on the same thread would occur
at the completion of each stitch. The spool thread,,which is colored green
in the Drawing, passes through the end of the radial arm N, as described,
and thence through the hole in the cap directly over the centre of the spool
towards the material being sewn, where it is caught by the loop of the
needle thread, while the spool case passes itself through the same and is inter-
locked underneath the fabric; the delivery of the spool thread is effected at an
uniform tension by the slight friction given to the radiating arm N, the feed
movement drawing off the thread at the rate required. The method of giving
motion to the needle, and giving the required movement to the serrated feed
wheel 6, will be easily understood without further explanation.
The second part of the said improvements is represented in Figures 1, 2, 3, 4,
and 5 in Sheet No. 2 of the accompanying Drawings. Figure 1 is a side view

page_text: of a machine, shewing in section an improved mode of driving the spool case;
Figure 2 is a transverse section of Figure 1, through the centre of the 'driver,
looking endwise at the machine; Figure 3, ditto of a pórtion of the top of the
driver, but looking towards the back of the machine, and shewing the improved
Larrangement of a hooked lever for retaining the loop; Figure 4, a plan of
the top of the driver and spool case, with the nose of the latter about to catch
the needle thread; and Figure 5, the same, with the spool case in a different
position.
number of teeth e.
A is the base of the machine; B, the framework secured thereto; under-
neath the front of the base is bolted the bracket C, to the bottom of which is
secured the vertical shaft D, which remains stationary during the operation of
the machine. E is the driver, arranged to run loose on the shaft D. On the
bottom of this driver, and forming part of the same, is the pulley a, for receiv-
ing a cord or band from a fly wheel, which may be turned by the foot of the
operator. A second pulley b, detached from the driver, runs loose on the shaft
D, and receives the driving cord when the operator wishes to stop the machine.
On the top of the driver E, and forming part of the same, is the cylindrical box
d, on the upper end of which and projecting from the inside are any convenient
On the top of the stationary shaft D is secured the spool
case holder F, with bevilled edges, for receiving the similarly shaped edges of
the spool case G. It will be observed, that the spool case holder F with its
spool case G is placed eccentrically with the cylindrical portion d of the
driver E. The spool case has a series of curved recesses on its edge, corre-
sponding in number to that of the teeth e on the driver, and also on the same
edge a nose g, for catching the loop of the needle thread. Between the nose g
and the point on the spool case, the latter is recessed, for a purpose seen
hereafter. The spool rests with its upper flange in a recess on the top of the
spool case, the detents serving to prevent one from turning without the other.
Below the under flange of the spool is a projection f, on which rests the radial
arm h, and a second arm meeting the first at the ends, both arms together
forming an elliptical spring, which may be more or less compressed by a screw
on the end of the projection f. This arrangement gives to the arm h a friction
against the bottom of the spool to an amount regulated by the screw. The
spool thread is wound on to the spool between the two flanges, and passes
from the same through a hole in the radial arm h towards the centre of the
spool, and upwards through the latter towards the fabric to be operated upon.
I is a plate, secured to the base A, and having a circular opening, the bevelled
.edges of which bear against the bevelled edges of the spool case G, which
is thus confined so as to revolve freely, but have no vertical' movement; J is

page_text: a plate dovetailed into the plate I, so as to slide easily in the same, and thereby.
allows the spool to be examined and withdrawn from its case at pleasure.
'
On one side of the spool case holder F is secured the piece K, the top of
which reaches toabout the middle of the spool case, and there projects outwards,
the projecting part being divided by a slot, for the purpose of admitting the
needle P. In front of the piece K, and between it and the needle (when the.
latter is down), is the lever L, which is allowed to vibrate on a pin screwed
into K; one arm 7 of this lever rests on the bottom of the cylindrical box d of
the driver E, when not raised therefrom by the incline of the cam n, which
forms a part of the driver; the other arm of the lever is hooked, so as to
catch the needle thread above the eye of the needle; a spring o serves to keep
the arm of the lever down when not raised by the cam n; a portion of the
driver E is turned eccentrically with the shaft D to receive the clip M, which
is jointed to the rod N, the other end of the latter being connected by means
of a ball and socket joint to the lower end of the bent lever O, which has its
fulcrum on a pin in the bas A. The extreme end of this lever is furnished
with a needle P, similar to that of ordinary sewing machines, and with a small
projection s, having an orifice for guiding the needle thread. Q is a rod con-
necting the needle lever O to the auxiliary lever R, the latter having its
fulcrum on a projection from the framework B, and having its end turned
down, and furnished with a hole through which the needle thread passes.
S is a spool containing a supply of needle thread; this is allowed to turn loose
ona pin attached to a bracket on the framework; a spring T,likewise attached
to the framework, and regulated by the screw V; bears against a circular
projection on the end of the spool S; and gives a slight friction to the latter as
the thread is being drawn off. W is a roller with serrated edges, and turning
loosely on a pin on the end of the base; immediately above this is a second
similar roller X on the spring handle Y. The roller. W is caused to turn
by levers and catches, which may be arranged and driven in various ways,
and which, as not forming part of this Invention, are omitted in the Drawing.
By means of the two serrated rollers, the fabric is drawn forward at a rate
corresponding to the length of the stitch required and to the speed of the
The driver E being caused to revolve by the cord from the fly wheel, the
teeth e on the top of the cylindrical portion of the driver will, on account of
the eccentricity of the latter with the stationary shaft D, enter the recesses
of the spool case, as seen in Figures 4 and 5, two teeth only being in the said

page_text: orifices at one time, the other teeth as the driver revolves clearing the piece
K as well as the needle P, thus causing the spool case to revolve within its
holder, and at the same time leaving ample room for the operation of the
needle and the lever L, as hereafter described. As the driver E revolves,
the eccentric clip M, by means of the rod N, operates the needle lever O, and
at the same time through the rod Q the auxilliary lever R.
In the machine as shewn in Figure 1, the needle being at its extreme
height, the auxiliary lever being down at its lowest point has given out
the requisite slack of needle thread to the spool case, the latter being in the
position shewn in Figure 5, that is, with its nose g furthest from or on the
opposite side of the needle, and the arm of the lever L resting on the highest
point of the cam n, and consequently the hooked end m across the needle
slot in the piece K, as shewn in red, Figure 3. At this position of the
machine the needle thread is caught on the hook m of the lever L,
passing under the spool case. through the recess between the nose.g and
point on the same, and over the top of the spool case, through the
needle orifice in the plate I, to the fabric. Now, supposing the needle P to.
have commenced its descent, simultaneously with which the auxiliary lever K.
has begun its ascent, and the nose g approached the needle slot in the piece
K, during this movement the needle thread over the top of the spool case.
must become slack, and this slack is taken up by the ascent of the auxiliary.
lever R; the needle having descending to its lowest position, the lever L
previously in the position shewn in red (Figure 3), now through its arm
being released from contact with the cam n, assumes the position shown in
black, with its hooked arın m drawn back, thereby releasing the loop which
was previously drawn round it. In this position of the machine the nose g is
yet one-eighth of the circumference of the spool case distant from the needle,
and in such a position as to allow the loop to escape, and be drawn up by the
auxiliary lever R tight towards the fabric. The original loop having now
been disposed of, a second loop begins to be formed by the needle commencing
to rise, and as the needle thus rises, the nose g catches this last-described
loop, and the hook m of the lever L is by the cam n projected into the same
loop. The needle continues to rise until it gains its former elevated position,
and during this continued movement of the needle the thread is carried round
to the position shewn in Figure 5, being the point from which we started, when
a repetition of the foregoing movements take place. The spool thread passes
from the spool to the end of the radial arm h, through a hole in the end of the
latter, thence towards the centre of the spool through an orifice in the same to
the top of the spool case, and thence through the needle hole in the plate [

page_text: towards the fabric to be operated upon, where, in conjunction with the needle
thread with which it has become interlaced, it completes the stitch.
It will now be seen that by the above arrangement the elliptical driving
wheels and external teeth on the spool case, herein described under the first
head, can be dispensed with. In the present described machine the spool case.
has a regular rotary motion, and the needle lever a regular reciprocating motion,
without any dwells or hesitations, as in the former machine. Thus, the machine
now described may be driven much faster, with considerable less friction, and
with less liability to break the threads, and at the same time this machine is
more simple than the former.
The third part of the said improvements is represented in Figs. 1 and 2, in
Sheet No: 1 of the accompanying Drawings; and in Fig. 1, of Sheet No: 2 of
the accompanying Drawings, the details of the working the same, which have
been already included in the foregoing explanations.
The fourth part of the said improvements is represented in Sheet No. 3 of
the accompanying Drawings. Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a portion of a
sewing machine with the improved apparatus attached; Fig. 2 is the same,
shewing the material to be operated on as introduced into its proper posi-
tion; Fig. 3 is a detached view of a portion of the improved apparatus, with
the spring guide removed; Fig. 4 is an enlarged sectional view, showing the
manner in which the cord is retained within the hem, and the action of
the spring guide in regulating the width of the hem; Fig. 5 is a view of a
corresponding portion of a shewing machine, as in Fig. 1, shewing the attach-
inent for guiding and feeding bindings upon and over the edges of articles.
to be sewn.
On reference to the Drawings, A represents a portion of the frameworks
or bed of the sewing machine; B is a standard on the same, which
serves as a guide for the operating bar or spindle C; the latter has
a needle E, of the description generally used in sewing machines, secured
to its lower end, and is actuated from above by any convenient means;
secured to the side of the standard B is the bracket D, which has a
projection at the bottom, forming what is technically termed the shoe;
this rests upon the bed A of the machine. If found more convénient, the
shoe d may be secured direct to the bed A, instead of forming part of the
braket D. To the front edge of the shoe D is secured one end'g of the
retainer G, which is bent partially round, the other end h terminating a short
distance from the edge of the shoe; the end of the retainer G has a notch
sufficiently large to admit about one-half of the cord H; as illustrated in the

page_text: enlarged view, Fig. 4, the point of the needle operating inside the retainer G,
between the point h and the part g, where it is secured to the shoe. On the
top of the extreme end of the shoe is secured the spring guide F, which is made
of steel, or other suitable elastic material. The stot in the guide F, through
which the screw / passes into the shoe, allows the distance of the point of
the guide from the front edge of the shoe to be varied at pleasure. The point
of the guide F is bent downwards, as shewn in Fig. 4, and is allowed to come
in contact with the top of the portion of the retainer G;over which it projects
to a distance proportionate to the size of the hem required in the fabric.
The cord H and the edge of the fabric K are placed in connection with the
apparatus, as shewn in Figures 2 and 4; the cord passing in front of theshoed,
and in a line parallel with it, takes its place in the notch at the point h of the
retainer G, and passing onwards under the other end g of the said retainer.
The edge of the fabric K passes under the retainer and over the cord in such
à manner, that the hem,previous to being operated upon by the needle,passes
over the point h of the retainer G, and consequently effectually encloses the
cord placed in the notch of that point, the width of the hem being regulated
by the point of the spring guide F. After being operated upon by the needle
and thread, the hem, with the cord stitched within its folds, passes under the
part g of the retainer G, and is further directed onwards by any convenient
feeding apparatus. It will be observed that the notched end h is a sufficient
distance from the shoe to allow the cord and the portion of the fabric turned
over and forming the hem to pass easily, but still sufficiently near to keep the
said cord effectually and constantly within the hem. The advantage of this
arrangement is, that any ordinary knot in the cord will pass the notch
without impeding the progress of the work, a difficulty which frequently
occurs when the cord is directed through a diagonal hole bored out of the
solid metal, as in other Inventions.
Another advantage obtained by this improved apparatus is the fact of the
needle taking effect close to the point, where the cord is effectually retained in
the hem, thereby insuring a greater uniformity in the work. It will be seen
that the retainer G serves the double purpose of keeping the cord securely in
its place within the hem before it is stitched, and of keeping the hem down
afterwards. The spring guide F, as before remarked, acts as a guage for
the width of the hem, and consequently renders the process of directing
the fabric to the machine more easy and certain for the operator, while the
elasticity of the guide F allows any ordinary obstructions in the fabric to
pass. Fig. 5 shews the attachment of the binder guide S, which is attached

page_text: to and forms one piece with an upright bracket T, which is screwed into the
bracket D.
In Fig. 2 the cloth is represented as being fed along from left to right, that
is, from the guide F towards the shoe D; but in Fig. 5 it is fed along in the
opposite direction, passing from the guide towards the needle in both instances;
as the operation will appear plainly enough to persons accustomed to use
sewing machines. From the representation given hore it needs not to be more
minutely described.
The fifth part of the said improvements is represented in Figures 1, 2, 3, 4,
5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, and 14, of Sheet No. 4, in the accompanying
Drawings.
"
Fig. 1 is a side elevation of a machine, with the side plates removed.
2, front elevation of ditto, with the front plates removed.
37
د"
3 is a back view, exhibiting the operation of a.double. lever, worked
by a cam, in combination with two levers operating two needle bars:
4.being a plan of a machine, with the top plate laid open.
The general arrangement of the parts for applying power are as follows, vizⓇ :
-The framework A of the machine, the grooved wheel B, principal working
cams C, D, driving shaft E, needle bar I, and the lever for working the same
G, are similar to those already used, and their operation will be readily under-
stood from the Drawings alone by those accustomed to sewing machines. The
cam C operates by a stud the lever G, the long arm of which, attached to the
needle bar I, moves the vertical needle n upand down in the manner requisite
to pierce.and return through the cloths, and also to form the loop on the under
side necessary for the formation of the stitch; but by this Invention an important
improvement is added thereto, by which those appliances are made to operate
two or more needles, and make two or more rows of stitches at the same time, as
herein shewn. The quadrant lever F is of a peculiar shape, the shorter arm of
which, springing from the same boss O, is made with the elbow piece F, F, at
the lower part of which is the stud a, which works in the groove of the cam D,
giving a reciprocal motion to the toothed quadrant at the end of the longarm
of the lever. The teeth on the quadrant gear into those of a rack on the bar a,
which thus has a reciprocal motion communicated to it; the bar a at its opposite
end is, also provided with a rack upon each side, and by its forward and return
movement working the pinions b, b, b, which are geared into it. The manner
in which these pinions are.secured to the bed plate can be seen in Fig. 2. In
order to better exhibit this operation in Fig. 4, the collars that hold them are
removed as well as a portion of the top plate. These pinions actuate the

page_text: circular needles c, c, c, secured to the studs of the pinions, giving to the needles
the requisite reciprocating revolving motion to make the loop stitch, which is
already familiar in practice, and does not require further description. The
motion for taking up the slack of the under threads is obtained by suitably
shaped cranks k, k, k, playing on pivots h, h. 1, attached to the top plate
(which is removed in the Drawing). These cranks are operated by an arm,
as shewn bye 1, or a compound arm e and e, e,. attached to the arms g 1,
g, and i of the cranks; the other end of the arms e and. e 1, being attached
to the bar a on a pivot at f, are caused by the forward and back motion of the
bar to give the necessary motion to the thread guides in the extremities of the
long arms of the cranks for taking up the slack thread. The dotted lines and
pivot at 1 shew the opposite position of the parts when the bar a is at the
other end of its throw in Fig. 1. These arms and levers attached to the
pivot fare omitted, in order to leave a better view of the needles themselves;
the bar is supported, so as to play steadily backward and forwards by the
brackets d, screwed to the top plates, and also to the frame A at d, d, through
which it slides freely.
Having shewn the method of operating the two or three under side needles
[for one or two of them may be dispensed with and only two or one worked],
it will be seen, by reference to the Drawings, how two or three vertical needles
may be worked in conjunction with the same.
In some arrangements of the circular needle the vertical needles
may be
placed on a single bar of suitable strength and shape, as shewn in Fig. 6;
they are shewn in Figures 1 and 2 worked by two bars and two levers G, G
one carrying a single needle, as in the face side of Figure 1, the other two
needles being worked by the bar and lever on the opposite side of the machine,
attached in the manner shewn in Figure 5 in profile, in Figure 2 in front, and
Figure 3 in back. The levers G play on a fulcrum, having its.bearings on a
standard J, which fits into the bed plate of the frame A, and is secured. by
screws on the top of the lever case, so that it is steadily and firmly fixed in
its place, Figure 7 shewing the bed plate or platform of the machine, the
apertures v, v, for the levers G, G, and the fastening on of the lever case;
also that for the front slide plate o for uncovering the needles, to which, in
this part of the present Invention, is added an additional slide plate p, drawing
out from the side of the machine, and having a small circular aperture by
which to draw it out. This side plate affords additional convenience in
uncovering some portions of the needle gear when it is not desirable to
draw out the plate o from the front,

page_text: The previous descriptions apply to vertical needles in combination with
circular under needles. The same principle of using two or more vertical
needles will apply also to shuttle and other sewing machines, and Figure 9
in Sheet No. 4 shews its application to the spool case sewing machine,
herein-before described, whereby two spool cases M, M, are driven by
the shaft G and toothed wheel H, the two needles executing two parallel
rows of stitches in line with the two stots x, x; the course of the rows is
shewn by the dotted lines y, y. Figure 8 shews the two needle levers R, R,
driven by the scroll cam Q. The mode of connecting the ends of these with
the needle bars V, V, will be seen in Figure 1, Sheet 1.
The following is another method of working two or more vertical needles,
by which they form, in combination with only one under side thread, whether
operated by a needle, revolving spool, or a shuttle, a novel and serviceable
variety of stitch. Two needles n, n, are adjusted at suitable distances upon
one needle bar I, as shewn in Figure 10, and three on one bar can be worked
on the same principle, the attachment of which is shewn in Figure 11; the
thread of the under side, whether carried by a circular needle, shuttle, or a
revolving spool, is passed through both or all the loops of the vertical needles
at once. When two vertical needles adjusted as in Figure 10 are worked in
connection with an under side, circular, or other loop-stitch needles with a
shuttle or with a revolving spool'in this manner, they form on the
upper side
of the article sewn two uniform parallel rows of stitches, as shewn in Figure
12; and on the under side, when in connection with a shuttle or a spool case,
a cross-over stitch, as seen in Figure 13; this is much more elastic than the
ordinary lock stitch, and not so liable to break in many kinds of work.
When in combination with a circular or loop-stitch needle, they form on the
under side a compound loopstitch, which is represented enlarged in Figure 14,
the circular needle or under-stitch thread being shewn in red, and the threads
of the two upper needles in black. This last stitch is very strong and serviceable
for ornamental work, and when the same is worked with three upper needles,
what may be called a triple loop stitch is formed on the under side. The
double row or two vertical needle stitch is the most desirable, and effects a
great saving of labor, as double the quantity of work can be done in the same
space of time.
The sixth part of the said improvements is represented in Figures 1, 2, 3,
4, in Sheet 5 of the accompanying Drawings, in which the Figures are drawn
full size, and represent only the apparatus for working theunder side needle,
to which this part of the Invention particularly applies.

page_text: Figure 1 is a side elevation.
"
2.
"3,
a plan
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same.
transverse section at the line A, B, at the needle end of the.
machine.
.
top view of the same, shewing the needle stot, and the stot..
piece 2 for the vertical needle, and the slide plate ?...
The mode of operating the circular needle and its-pinion by a longitudinal
bar and rack is similar to that described under the preceding head, but by
dispensing with the quadranta more simple arrangement is herein substituted;
the barg, the rack of which gears into the needle. pinion q, is moved forward
and back by the lever e, worked by the revolving stud d in the cam C; this
lever plays upon a fulcrum f. Figure 1 shews the bar with the lever at one
end of its throw, and in Figure 2 the lever has been moved into the position
shewn. It is the improved form and reduced space of the feed motion. in
. connection with this mode of actuating the circular needle that constitutes the
. most useful part of this particular improvement.
The driving shaft b and the rack bar g is further supported by the bracket
s and the bracket. Upon the shaft bare placed the cams h and j, which
lift up and move forward the serrated bar m, by which the' cloth is fed.
Attached to the under side of the bar m.is the bracket or ley le and the
bracket or ley; the cam j is represented in Figure 3 at the top of its throw,
in which it has lifted up the bracket &, against which it bears as it rises in the
course of its revolution, at the same time raising up the serrated bar .m; to
which the bracket is attached, and whilst the same is at its highest point.
the cam begins to bear upon, and in the continuation of its revolution
pushes forward the ley i (also,attached to the bar m), which then having
completed its forward movement returns to its place by the force of a spring
so placed as to hold down the bracket, k, and another holding back the ley i,
against the pressure of which these have been moved by the cams j and h,
which springs may be placed in, any convenient position.. The length of the
feed motion is regulated by the screw, against the end of which the bracket
k returns in its backward movement; the collar p is firmly attached to the
frame a, and sustains the pinion gand the stud o, which are securely fixed in
the collar, so as to allow no play or other movement except to revolve freely
within it; into the stud o the shank of the circular needle n is fixed, which
latter thus operates in a reciprocating circular movement in correspondence
with the pinion g; a brass sliding plate i is fitted into the top plate, and a cross
slide plate / in the contrary direction to the plate i, to give facility in uncover-

page_text: ing and examining the working parts underneath. Besides the advantage of
dispensing with the cumbersome arrangement heretofore used in the above-
described feed motion, the serrated bar m retains a constantly level position
throughout its movement, while in the old method one end of it was thrown
out of level, and so had an incline corresponding to the distance from the
centre stud or fulcrum upon which the bar worked.
The last part of the said improvements is represented in Figures 1,2, 15, 16,
and 17, in Sheet 4 of the accompanying Drawings, shewing the arrangement
for the tension and delivery of the thread from the upper spool K. The
bracket L, which may be attached to any convenient part, holds a hollow
spindle s, s, firmly secured to it, on which is placed the spool K. Outside
the spool is placed a sort of frame or flyer m, divided in its length across the
face of the spool by a slit [as seen in Figure 15], on which last part a thread
guide v plays freely from end to end. The outer edge of the hollow spindle
has a screw thread, on which is screwed the double nut S; this can tighten or
loosen the play of the flyer m, which revolves around the spindle and around
the spool, being moved by the reeling off of the thread as it is fed to the
needles.
Figure 1 represents an elevation of the spool apparatus in connection with
a machine.
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2
"
"
15
"
"
an end view.
being a plan of the spool apparatus, shewing the top
guides and divided part of the flyer m.
16 represents the attachment of the flyer m at the spindle round
which it revolves..
17
"'
And,
The thread passes from the spool through the guide v, the guide t, the
guide u, and thence through the hollow spindle in the centre of the spool, and
through the guide on the needle bar frame, and so down to the needle. It
will be seen that this arrangement secures an even or uniform tension at all
stages of the unreeling of the spool.
that of the guide u at the spindle end.
Having thus fully explained the working of the several improvements
comprised in this Invention as communicated to me, and although in the
foregoing I have described the construction and operation of entire sewing
machines in order to exhibit more clearly the several improvements so com-
municated to me, I do not intend thereby to lay claim to the method of
actuating the needle bar, to the circular needles, or to those parts already in
public use, which, I have exhibited for the purpose of. illustrating this
°

page_text: Invention; but I wish it to be understood that what is claimed in. this
Invention, and sought to be secured by Letters Patent, is particularly set forth
as follows:-
First, the spool case carrying its spool-or. bobbin-turning on its own-axis,
having the nose, or its equivalent, for catching the needle thread, the spool
passing itself entirely through the loop constantly in one direction without
reciprocal: motion, whether the spool case is driven in combination with
the wheel Hand the elliptical wheels E and F, or by placing it on a
stationary holder within a cylindrical driver placed eccentrically with the
holder, to cause the spool case to revolve, with a space between the holder and
driver for the play of the needle and its thread. And also the combination
and arrangement of elliptical wheels for the purpose of producing a hesitation
or dwell in the motion of the operating parts in sewing machines, which
motion has hitherto been obtained by means of cams arranged and operated
as set forth.
...Second; the hollow spool case with its spool, by the peculiar construction of
which a greater quantity of thread can be carried than by the spool of any
other lock-stitch machine, and also the mode of delivering and giving tension
to the thread from such,spool in combination with the radiating arm, or its
equivalent, as shewn and described.
Third, the hooked lever L, in combination with the cam or the driver, when
arranged and worked in the manner and for the purpose described, and
also in substituting therefore when desirable the placing of the shaft and
working parts at an angle, by which means a similar result may be obtained.
Fourth, the auxiliary lever X, when used not for the purpose of controlling
the thread between the eye of the needle and the cloth, nor for tightening the
stitch, which is effected by the needle bar, but only, as herein-before described,
in conjunction with the spool case I, so as to accommodate the needle thread
as it passes over the spool case, thereby diminishing the extent of movement
required in the needles as in other machines.
Fifth, the curved retainer G with its notched end h; in combination with
the shoe d, for effectually keeping the cord in contact with the inside of the
hem of the material while the hem is being operated upon by the needle and
thread of a sewing machine; and also the use of a binding guide, as herein-
before described; but I do not under this head claim generally an adjustable
guide for a sewing machine, or the combination of a guide for cord with a
hemming guide.
Sixth, the two levers with their needle bars operated by the same cam.or

page_text: driving power, and also the driving simultaneously two or more needles by
the same needle bar, either with one under side needle, or its equivalent, or in
combination with a corresponding number on the under side; also, the long
bar and rack and the arrangements of the same in combination with the
needle pinions, and also the operating simultaneously more than one circular or
other needle, shuttle, revolving spool, or their equivalents, on the under side.
Seventh, the combination of the long bar and rack and its arrangement, as
seen in Figures 1 and 2, in Sheet 5, with the improved form and arrange-
ment of the feed apparatus, shewn in Figures 1, 2, and 3, whereby the
serrated bar m which feeds the cloth moves constantly in a horizontal position,
dispensing with a fixed centre, instead of being in some portions of its move-
ment at an incline corresponding to its distance from the centre on which it
is worked, as in other sewing machines, and operating the same within a
cylinder or cylindrical case; but I do not claim under this head the method
of obtaining the feed motion from the cams on the driving shaft, as shewn as
described.
Eighth, the construction and arrangement of the parts in combination with
the spool for the delivery and tension of the spool thread, as seen in Figures 1,
2, 15, 16, and 17, for the purpose of feeding the thread to any needles
supplied from spools.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Smith, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, the Eighteenth day of April, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-six.
5 Witness,
JAMES E. HALL.
WILLIAM SMITH. (L.S.)