IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF THE CLOTH KNOWN AS SERGE-DE-BERRIES
Year: 1878

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to David Hitchen, of Prospect House, Halifax, in the County
of York, Worsted Manufacturer, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE
MANUFACTURE OF THE CLOTH KNOWN AS SERGE-DE-BERRIES."
Sealed the 5th April 1878, and dated the 4th January 1878.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said David Hitchen at the Office
of the Commissioners of Patents on the 4th January 1878.
DAVID HITCHEN, of Prospect House, Halifax, in the County of York, Worsted
Manufacturer. "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF THE CLOTH KNOWN AS
SERGE-DE-BERRIES."
This Invention consists of two important advantages in making worsted and
union serge-de-berries,―
1st. In substituting for the old heavy two-fold or double worsted warps light
one-fold or single worsted warps for the face of the cloth, and using heavy two-fold
or single worsted or cotton weft for the back. By giving the weight to the weft I
can produce a good firm handling cloth at a saving of from 20 to 30 per cent., the
saving being effected by the difference in value between the heavy costly two-fold
worsted warp and less costly weft, and which is further assisted by the employing
more shafts than the old serge-de-berries required advantage.
2nd. By using the two-fold and three-fold warps in the nine shafts and upwards
with the heavy wefts in worsted or cotton in one-fold, two-fold, or three-fold, I can
produce an extra heavy cloth (which, by the old system of seven shafts, could not
be given). This extra heavy cloth will be of great value for purposes where
strength and durability are required. Serge-de-berries are used for covering boots,
and with this heavy cloth they will be more suitable for cold climates than the light
goods hitherto made.
First. I claim to use one-fold worsted warps for 7 lifts or shafts " serge-de-
berries" to be woven with very heavy single or two-fold worsted or cotton weft.
The heavy weft is to make up the difference of weight between the light single
warp and the old two-fold warp.

page_text: Second. I claim to use one-fold worsted warps in 9, 11, 13, 15, 17, 18, 19, 21, 22,
23, 25, 26, 27, 29, 30, 31, 33, 35, 36, and 37 healds or lifts, and the same to be
woven with heavy one-fold or two-fold worsted and cotton wefts.
Third. I claim also to use for the extra heavy cloth two-fold and three-fold worsted
warps with one-fold, two-fold, and three-fold worsted or cotton wefts in 9, 11, 13,
15, 17, 18, 19, 21, 23, 25, 26, 27, 29, 30, 31, 33, 35, 36, and 37 healds or lifts.
By the third claim I can produce cloths to suit boots to wear in cold climates,
because more weft can be thrown or shot into a given distance than 7 shaft or lifts
could give under the old principle of working. The reason that more weft can be
thrown in a given distance than with the old system is because the more shafts we
employ and the greater amount of float or room is made for the throwing of
the weft.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said David Hitchen in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 4th July
1878.
LU
DAVID HITCHEN, of Prospect House, Halifax, in the County of York, Worsted
Manufacturer. "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF THE CLOTH KNOWN AS
SERGE-DE-BERRIES."
This Invention has reference to improvements in the manufacture of the cloth
known as serge-de-berries, whereby a greatly superior cloth is produced at much
less cost than the serge cloths now manufactured; and this Invention has two
important advantages in making worsted and union serge-de-berries, viz. :-
First. In substituting for the old heavy two-fold or double worsted warps light
one-fold or single worsted warps for the face of the cloth, and using heavy two-fold
or single worsted or cotton weft for the back. By giving the weight to the weft I
can produce a good firm handling cloth at a saving of from 20 to 30 per cent., the
saving being effected by the difference in value between the heavy costly two-fold
worsted warps and the less costly weft, and which is further assisted by employing
more shafts than the old serge-de-berry required.
The second advantage consists in using the two-fold and three-fold warps in the
eleven shafts and upwards, with the heavy wefts in worsted or cotton in one-fold, two-
fold, and three-fold warps; I produce an extra heavy cloth, which, by the old system
of 7 shafts, could not be given. This extra heavy cloth will be of great value for
purposes where strength and durability are required. Serge-de-berries are used for
covering boots, and with this heavy cloth they will be more suitable for cold
climates than the light goods hitherto made.
I will now proceed to describe the various methods or numbers of shafts used
and adapted by me in carrying out my Invention :-
First. I use one-fold worsted warps in seven shafts or lifts to be woven with
heavy single or two-fold worsted and cotton wefts. Five shafts out of the seven

page_text: are used to work the face of the cloth, and the remaining two shafts are used for.
working the back or ground of the cloth. The tappets of the loom are so arranged
as to work the top warp working with the five healds or shafts four times up and
once down in each lift, and the two shafts or lifts for the ground to be worked once
up and four times down for each shaft or lift.
Second. I use one-fold worsted warps in nine shafts or lifts to be woven with
heavy single or two-fold wefts in worsted and cotton. Seven shafts out of the nine
are used to work the face of the cloth, and the remaining two shafts are used for
working the back or ground of the cloth. The tappets are arranged so as to work
the top warp working with the seven healds six times up and once down in each
lift, and the two shafts or lifts for the ground to be worked once up and six times
down for each shaft or lift. This method also represents the way the 18, 27, and
.36 lifts will work, because nine shafts is repeated in each case as a multiple of these
numbers.
Third. I use one-fold worsted warps in eleven shafts to be woven with heavy
single or two-fold wefts in worsted and cotton, nine shafts out of the eleven to
be used for working the back of ground of the cloth, the tappets to be arranged so as to
work the top warp working with the nine healds eight times up and once down in
each lift, and the two shafts or lifts for the ground to be worked once up and eight
times down for each shaft or lift.
Fourth. I use two-fold worsted warps and one-fold or two-fold cotton warps, and
I work these according to the description given in the three previous methods.
The worsted warps to work the top or face of the cloth, and the cotton warps to
work with the said two shafts that work the ground warp. The ground warps
named in these methods are loomed so as to work the warp in the proportion of
one ground end to one top warp or face end, or in the proportions required to
produce good heavy cloths.
Fifth. I use one-fold, two-fold, and three-fold worsted warps to be woven with
one-fold, two-fold, and three-fold wefts in worsted or cotton, and worked by 11, 13,
15, 17, 19, 21, 22, 23, 25, 26, 29, 31, 33, 35, and 37 healds or lifts. The 11, 13, 15,
17, and 19 shafts or lifts to be worked by tappets and the remaining numbers of
shafts by heald engines or harness, according to the description of the mode of
treading the ends hereafter given.
Sixth. I use two-fold and three-fold worsted warps to be woven with one-fold,
two-fold, or three-fold wefts in worsted or cotton to be worked by 11 healds or lifts.
The tappets to be so cast, set, or arranged that the ends of the warp coming from
the beam and through the gears shall be trodden for this method only in the
following order, viz.-1st, 9th, 6th, 3rd, 11th, 8th, 5th, 2nd, 10th, 7th, and 4th ends.
By the mode of treading a good bold twill is produced on the face of the cloth,
such as could not be made on the old system of working.
Seventh. I use one-fold and two-fold worsted warps to be woven with one-fold,
two-fold, and three-fold wefts in worsted or cotton in 13 shafts, see Drawing, letter P.
This method will be trodden two shafts for every pick, as follows:-1st and 11th,
3rd and 5th, 7th and 9th, 11th and 13th, 2nd and 4th, 6th and 8th, 10th and 12th,
1st and 3rd, 5th and 7th, 9th and 11th, 2nd and 13th, 4th and 6th, and 8th and 10th ends
in their order that they come from the beam, and through the gears P, R, S, and T,
marked on Drawings, are worked by this method.
Eighth. I use one-fold and two-fold worsted warps to be woven with one-fold,
two-fold, or three-fold wefts in worsted or cotton. This method will be worked on
seven shafts, according to the looming shown on Drawing. The healds to be trodden
for this looming,-1st, 3rd, 5th, 7th, 2nd, 4th, and 6th ends. I also claim the right to
arrange the looming and treading in other forms, so as to make exactly the cloth
shown in this method by description of treading and drawing of looming, see
Drawing Q.
The treadings shewn on Drawings and lettered R, S, and T are to we woven
with the same materials described in method No. 7. To be trodden exactly as

page_text: Drawings show. The black dots represent the binding ends; the white represents
the warp and the black spots the weft.
And in order that my said Invention and the mode of working may be properly
understood, I have annexed hereto Drawings of the tappets with a description of
the capacities of each set of tappots. A, B, C, D, E, K, L, M, N, and O are to work
at the end of the loom. The sets of tappets marked F, G, H, I, and J are to work
on and from the low shaft under the healds.
A is a set of tappets, 11 in number, for working 11 healds 10 times up and once down.
sectional Drawings.
The numbers marked round the sectional tappets show the number of treads in
the round for each section. The numbers also shew the number of sections that
each set requires, bolting, fastening, or casting together to work the healds or lifts
named above. The sections can be set to tread any looming that has for its object
the treading of the ends in the warp, as herein described. These tappets are
fastened together, as required, by the looming, and are secured at the end by a
plate. This tappet works on the same principle as the seven-shaft serge-de-berries
are worked by S. Hitchen & Son, of Halifax," the same principle being extended
to the number of shafts described herewith. W is a groove formed by R, R, and
Trims; S is a bowl which works in the groove. This bowl is connected by upright
rods, half moons, or equivalent contrivances, to both the tops and bottoms of the
bealds, and the action of the healds are determined by the action of these bowls
when worked by the rimmed tappets, &c., as now in use in the 7 shafts serge-de-
berries.
The tappets, heald engines, or harnesses, are so arranged that the ends of warp
coming from the beam and through the gears are trodden in the following order, as,
for example; in working 11 shafts serge-de-berries, vizt. :-1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 2, 4, 6, 8,
and 10 ends. This rule of treading the ends will be used in all the numbers of
lifts given in method No. 5. The same order of treading will also be used in
Nos. 1, 2, 3, and 4 methods for the top or face warps, that is, the ends of warps
coming from the beam and through the healds or harness will be so loomed that
the healds or harness carrying the ends of warp will be trodden consecutively, first,
the odd numbers of ends, then the even numbers of ends.
Having thus described the nature and object of my said Invention, and the
manner in which the same is or may be carried into effect, I would observe that I
do not make any claim to any portion of the methods taken or considered separately
or apart from the other; but that what I claim and desire to be secured to me by
the herein-before in part recited Letters Patent are,-
First. The peculiar methods and combination, herein-before described, as applied
to the numbers of shafts or lifts herein-before given and shewn on the Drawings.
Second. The improved mode or method of manufacturing the cloth known as
serge-de-berries in any or all of the methods herein-before described, by working
the healds by means of tappets (shaped to work the said healds, and produce the

page_text: cloths herein described working at the end of the loom in connection with top
rods and half-moons, or by tappets working under the healds from the low shaft in
connection with weights at the end or ends of the loom frame in the ordinary
manner of working seven shafts serge-de-berries now in use.
Third. I claim the sole right to make improved serge-de-berries cloths by means
of heald engines or harnesses, as before described.
Fourth. I claim the sole right to use tappets of such capacities as are required to
weave cloths according to the descriptions, Drawings, and modes of working herein-
before given and shewn on Drawing.
Lastly. I claim the right to use the said tappets either to work at the end of the
loom or below the healds from the low shaft under the loom, substantially as
described, and for the purposes herein-before described.
In witness whereof, I, the said David Hitchen, have hereunto set my hand
and seal, this Third day of July, in the year of our Lord One thousand
eight hundred and seventy-eight.
DAVID HITCHEN. (L.S.)