Improvements in Sewing Machines.
Year: 1899

page_text: Date of Application, 10th Apr, 1899-Accepted, 13th May, 1899
.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Sewing Machines.
I, HERMAN NEDERMAN, 182, Grove Street, St. Paul, Minnesota, United States
of America, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement:-
-
This invention relates to improvements in sewing machines, its object being to
provide a machine for turning inward the edges of two or more plies of material
and joining the same by a line of stitching passing through said inturned edges.
In the accompanying drawings forming part of this specification:
Fig. 1 is a front elevation of the machine;
Fig. 2 is an end elevation:
Fig. 3 is a top view of the machine;
Fig. 4 is a front view of the machine head partly broken away;
Fig. 5 is a vertical longitudinal section of said head;
Fig. 6 is a rear view of the head partly broken away;
Fig. 7 is a vertical section through the head;
Fig. 8 is a detail of jaws over which the edges of the material are turned and
their actuating means;
1
Fig. 9 is a vertical section of head looking toward one side of plunger support;
Fig. 10 is a top elevation of the bobbin showing the adjacent jaws and the
supports for the feeder arms, and
Fig. 11 is a detail of the end of the folding jaws and turner, showing the edges
of the material turned over the jaws 12.
In the drawings A represents a suitable bed or table, and B the frame consisting
of an upright 2 and horizontal arm 3. C represents the main driving shaft which
has journal support in the arm 3 of the machine and is operated from a suitable
source of power through the medium of the belt pulley 4. Journalled in supports 5
depending from the arm 3 is a horizontal needle bar 6, by which the first thread
is supplied. The needle bar is actuated from the driving shaft through the medium
of bevel gears 7 and 8 and disc and pitman 9 and 10.
Carried by the end of the horizontal arm 3 of the frame is a head D in which
most of the operating parts of the machine are arranged. Having fulcrum sup-
port 13 in said head are lever arms 11, provided upon their lower ends with rear-
wardly projecting jaws 12, over which the edges of the material are adapted to be
turned. The arms 11 are provided upon their upper ends with rolls 14, which are
engaged by the cams 15 and 16 to turn said arms upon their pivots, as hereinafter
pointed out. Said levers are normally held with their jaws in contact by spring 71.
The material is held against said jaws 12 by means of pressure bars 17. These
pressure bars are supported by yokes 18 slidable upon the driving shaft C. The
yokes and pressure bars are normally held separated by springs 19, and are forced
inward in the operation of the machine by the cams 20 bearing against rolls 21
carried by said yokes. Springs 72 are interposed between pressure bars and
yokes, serving as yielding support for bars.
The plies of material while being held against the jaws 12 are turned inward
over the tops of said jaws by means of folding jaws 22. These folding jaws are
carried by arms 23, which extend upward and are slidably supported at their
upper ends in the head D, as shown in Fig. 1.

page_text: The arms 23 are actuated by means of rolls 24, which are secured to the inner
faces of the arms and which project into grooves 25 in the cams 20, secured upon
the driving shaft, as shown in Fig. 4.
The edges of the material when folded over the jaws 12 by the folding jaws just
described, are turned downward between said jaws by means of a turner 26 having
adjustable support in the lower end of the bar 27, by means of slot and pin con-
nection 73, a yielding support for said turner being furnished by spring 74. The
bar 27 is vertically slidable in the head and is normally held in raised position
The bar 27 is actuated
by means of a spring 28, connecting it with a support 29.
to carry the turner downward by a cam 30 mounted upon the driving shaft.
The means for carrying the material through the machine consists of arms 31,
provided with inwardly projecting serrated jaws 32 at their lower ends, and at
their upper ends having sliding support in a box 33 carried by a plate 34, slidably
arranged in the head. The feeder armis 31 are normally held closed by a connect-
ing spring 35. The slide 34 which supports the feeding mechanism is reciprocated
by means of a cam 36 mounted upon a horizontal shaft 37, journalled in the rear
of the head, said shaft being driven from the main driving shaft through inter-
meshing gear 38 and 39. The slide 34 is provided with an upwardly projecting
post 40, with which the cam 36 engages to actuate the slide. In order to adjust
the travel of the slide and thereby regulate the stitch, a thumb screw 41 is pro-
vided threaded through the post 40 and sliding loosely through the head of the
machine. Nuts 42 are arranged upon the screw and bear against the rear of the
head, and the end of the screw inside the head is surrounded by a spring 43, which
presses against the inner side of the head and the headed end of the screw.
will be evident that, by turning the thumb screw, the post 40 and connected feed-
ing mechanism will be separated from, or drawn toward, the nuts 42, while at all
times the spring 43 will hold said parts drawn inward, except when the same are
being actuated by the cam.
It
In order to separate the feeder arms in the operation of the machine, a cam 44
is mounted upon the shaft 37 which cam engages with studs 45, projecting upward
from the tops of the feeder arms, as shown in Figs. 6 and 7. These studs work
in slots through the slide and are separated by said cam.
In order to separate the feeder arms, when the machine is not in operation, to
allow the material to be placed therein, a cam screw 46 is arranged between the
. upper ends of the feeder arms with which screw is connected an arm 47, said arm
being connected with an operating cord 48 at the side of the machine through the
medium of a pair of bell cranks 49 and 50, and connecting cords 51. When the
arm 47 is turned through the medium of said bell cranks, the cam screw will be
turned to separate the feeder arms.
The second thread is supplied in the ordinary manner by means of a suitable
bobbin 52 arranged in the case 53. The bobbin is held in the case by means of a
suitable shuttle 54 secured upon the top of a vertical shaft 55. Upon the lower
end of said shaft is mounted a bevel gear 56 with which engages a toothed seg-
ment 57 operatively connected with the main driving shaft by shaft 58 and con-
necting rod 59. The operating of the driving shaft thus reciprocates the segment,
causing an alternating rotary movement of the shuttle shaft to bring the looper of
the bobbin and the needle together to make a stitch. The thread is fed to the
needle in the ordinary manner, passing through suitable feeding arms 60 and 61.
In sewing together plies of material where corners are to be turned, it becomes
necessary to use a supplementary device to hold the edges in position to be engaged
by the turner, and for this purpose is provided a spreader 62 carried by a vertical
arm 63 which in turn is connected with a rod 64, extending through the head of
the machine. A surrounding coil spring 66 is interposed between the frame of
the machine and the arm 63, "normally holding said arm and connected spreader in
rear position. When it is desired to turn the material to form a corner, the
spreader is first pulled forward by means of the thumb piece 67, and is locked in
forward position by a spring controlled dog 68 carried by rod 65, which will

page_text: engage with the frame, as shown in Fig. 7. This brings the spreader over the
edges of material above needle, and the material then being turned by hand, the
end of the spreader engages with the unstitched portion of edges, holding such edges
in position to be engaged by turner. The dog 68 will then be engaged by a
spur 69, carried by the slide operating cam, thus releasing the dog and permitting
spring 66 to carry the spreader again to rear position.
In order to hold the plies of material in parallel position adjacent to jaws 12,
guides 70 are secured to the jaw supporting arms 11, as shown in Figs. 8 and 9.
The operation of the machine is as follows:
Fig. 1 represents the positions in which the parts stand when the material is
first being fed into the machine. In this position the jaws 12 are closed, leaving
a space between said jaws and the pressure bars; the turner is raised; the folding
jaws are separated and the feeding jaws are in forward position and closed.
The plies of material are passed between the jaws 12 and guides 70, and between
the feeder jaws, the feeder jaws being separated for this purpose, by depressing the
treadle connected with the arm 50. The plies of material being thus placed, the
treadle is released to allow the feeding jaws to return to closed position. The
machine being then started, the turning of the driving shaft separates the jaws 12,
and draws inward the pressure bars to grip material.
The folding jaws 22 are now carried inward by their actuating means here-
tofore described, to turn the edges of the plies of material projecting above
the jaws 12 over said jaws. The turner now descends, forcing the
inturned edges of the material downward between the jaws 12, as
shown in Fig. 11; the turner is then raised and the jaws 12 closed to press the
inturned edges together. The needle has now passed through the inturned edges
of the material into the bobbin case. As needle is passing through material the
pressure bars are slightly separated and again closed. As needle is withdrawn
irom the bobbin case, the pressure bars are again separated from the jaws 12, and
the jaws 12 themselves slightly separated to permit the material to be drawn through
the machine the length of a stitch by the feeding jaws. It will be understood
that, after each passage of the needle, the slide 34 is actuated to carry the feeder
arms rearward and draw the .material through the machine into position for a
second passage of the needle. When the feeding jaws have been carried to rear
position, they are separated by the cam 44, and while separated are drawn to
forward position by the spring which controls the slide. As they are brought to
forward position, the cam 44 turns sufficiently to allow said jaws to close and grip
material. By means of the adjustment heretofore described, the degree of move-
ment of the slide, and consequently the length of the stitch, may be varied.
The continued operation of the machine continues the turning inward of the
edges of the material, and the sewing together of the inturned edges, the material
being drawn through the machine the length of a stitch after each passage of the
needle. It will be seen from the drawings that the needle is arranged in the rear
of the folding jaws and the turner so as to pass through the edges of the material
after the same have been turned. It will be understood that the shuttle and bobbin
work in unison with the needle.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is:-
1. In a machine of the class described, the combination of means for receiving
plies of material, a turner, means for actuating said turner to turn the edges of
said plies inward, and sewing mechanism.
2. In a machine of the class described, the combination of means for receiving
plies of material, a turner, an adjustable support therefor and means for actuating
said turner to turn the edges of said plies inward.
3. In a machine for turning in the edges of two plies of material, the combina-
tion of a pair of jaws, and means for turning the edges of the material over said
jaws.

page_text: 4. In a machine of the class described, the combination of a pair of jaws, guides
for guiding plies of material alongside of said jaws, means for turning the pro-
jecting edges of said plies between said jaws, and means for sewing therethrough.
5. In a machine of the class described, the combination with holding jaws, of
means for feeding plies of material into said machine outside of said jaws, with
their adjacent edges projecting above the same, means for separating said jaws,
simultaneously turning the projecting edges of the material downward between the
same, and means for sewing therethrough.
6. In a machine of the class described, the combination with holding jaws, of
jaws arranged adjacent thereto, forming an intermediate passage for said material,
means for actuating said second jaws to turn the edges of the material over said
inner jaws, and means for turning the edges inward between said jaws, and means
for sewing therethrough.
7. In a machine of the class described, the combination of a pair of jaws, along-
side of which plies of material are adapted to be passed, folding devices, and means
for actuating said devices to fold the edges of said material over said jaws.
8. In a machine of the class described, the combination with means for carrying
plies of material through the machine, of holding jaws, folding jaws arranged
adjacent thereto, actuating canis for said folding jaws mounted upon the operating
shaft whereby said jaws are actuated to fold the edges of the material over said first
jaws, means for turning said edges downward between the holding jaws, and means
for sewing therethrough.
9. In a machine of the class described, the combination with means for carrying
plies of material to be joined through the machine, means for turning inward the
adjacent edges thereof, and for sewing therethrough, of pressure bars slidably con-
nected together, springs normally holding said bars separated and actuating cam
therefor, whereby said bars are carried into gripping contact with the edges of the
material.
10. In a machine of the class described, feeding mechanism consisting of a pair
of arms, a slidable support for said arms, means for actuating said support, means
for adjusting the travel of the same, and means for separating said arms.
11. In a machine of the class described, feeding mechanism consisting of a pair
of arms, a supporting slide therefor, a spring normally holding said slide in forward
position, means for adjusting the position of said slide, an actuating cam, a driving
shaft and an operative connection between said cam and shaft.
12. In a machine of the class described, feeding mechanism consisting of a pair
of arms, a supporting slide, means for reciprocating said slide, a cam arranged
between said arms, and means for actuating said cam to separate said arms.
13. In a machine of the class described, the combination with means for receiv
ing plies of material and folding their adjacent edges inward, and for sewing
therethrough, of the feeding mechanism for carrying the material through the
machine, said mechanism being provided with jaws normally gripping said
material, and means for actuating said device in the operation of the machine to
draw the material through the machine a predetermined amount after each stitch.
14. In a machine of the class described, the combination with a pair of jaws
alongside of which plies of material are adapted to be passed, folding devices for
folding the edges of said material over said jaws, a turner for forcing said edges
between said jaws, and feeding mechanism, of a slidable corner turning device,
adapted when carried to forward position to hold the edges of material in position
to be engaged by the turner as the material is turned to form a corner.
Dated Toth tray of 0.
MARKS & CLERK,
18, Southampton Buildings, London, W.C.,
13, Temple Street, Birmingham, and
25, Cross Street, Manchester, Agents.
MARKS & CLERK,
18, Southampton Buildings, London, W.C.,
13, Temple Street, Birmingham, and
25, Cross Street, Manchester, Agents.