A Machine for Making Collar and Cuff Tabs.
Year: 1899

page_text: Date of Application, 13th Sept., 1899-Accepted, 2nd Dec., 1899
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
A Machine for Making Collar and Cuff Tabs.
We, GUY PERCIVAL MORRISHI, Shirt and Collar Manufacturer, Derry Factory,
Londonderry, and HENRY FERGUSON and DUNCAN MACRAE, Engineers, both of
46, Victoria Street, Belfast, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and
in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement:
-
At present the tabs of collars and cuffs are made in a rather tedious manner by
hand. The work girl has a metal former of the desired size and shape and she
takes the linen blank from which the tab is to be made and bends it round the
edges of the former and thereafter presses it with a hot iron. The blank so
operated on is then doubled up along its centre line and the meeting edges sewn
in a sewing machine.
The object of this invention is to provide a machine whereby the linen blanks
can be bent round the metal former and shaped and folded very quickly and
easily.
The machine will be found very useful in all shirt and collar factories.
In order that our said invention may be properly understood we have here-
unto appended two explanatory sheets of drawings, whereon,
Fig. 1 is a front view of the machine.
Fig. 2 is a side view thereof.
Fig. 3 is an inverted plan thereof.
Fig. 4 is a plan thereof.
Fig. 5 is a linen collar-tab blank as it appears before being folded round the
edges.
Fig. 6 is a view of the linen blank as it appears after being folded round the
edges in the machine.
Fig. 7 is a view of the completed collar-tab ready to be attached to the collar.
Fig. 8 is a plan view of the former.
Fig. 9 is a section on the line A-B Fig. 8 and Fig. 10 a section on the
line CD Fig. 8.
Fig. 11 is a view showing an arrangement suitable for making cuff-tabs.
Fig. 12 is a view of a cuff-tab blank after being shaped and folded.
Fig. 13 is a completed cuff-tab ready to be attached to a cuff.
Referring to the drawings whereon the same reference letters wherever
repeated indicate the same parts.
The machine consists of, by preference, a rectangular wood pedestal a which is
open at the front as clearly shown at Fig. 1 but closed on the other three sides.
The right hand side is cut away at a¹ (see Figs. 1, 2 and 3) so as to allow room
for the manipulating handle f to work.
A metal plate is supported by the pedestal and upon this plate four
folders c,,,, are arranged. The shape of the folders is clearly shown at
Fig. 4 and as will be seen the folders and c are broader than and of a different
shape to the folders c, c². The inner end of each folder is reduced in thickness
Pine R71

page_text: or stepped as shown at x. The four folders are caused to move in and out (that
is towards and away from one another) simultaneously by means of vertical
levers d,,,, working in slots in the plate band operated by means of the
four shafts e, e¹, and arranged at right angles to one another at the under-
side of the plate b. These shafts run in bearings f at the underside of the
plate and are caused to perform a partial revolution simultaneously by means of
the handle on the shaft e¹ and the bevel gearing 9, 9, 9. The lower ends of the
levers,,,, are made with collars which are secured by pinching screws
to their respective shafts e, e¹, e², e. The folders e, cl, e, c, are made with slots h
which can work against guide pins i secured to the plate and provided with
pressure springs and adjusting nuts at their upper ends.
The metal former k is made of the shape shown at Figs. 8, 9 and 10 and it is
secured by the fork to the bent lever m. which latter is provided with a handle m¹
at one end and is fulcrumed at its other end to a bracket m² made in one with or
secured to the plate b.
1
The lever m and former are shown in the raised position Fig. 2 and in the
lowered position Figs. 1 and 4. In Fig. 4 the folders are shown in their in
position whilst the dotted lines indicate their out position.
n is a Bunsen burner supported by the strap or bracket n which latter is
secured at its upper ends to the downwardly projecting rib p cast in one with the
plate b. is the gas pipe connection.
The modus operandi is as follows:-
The four folders e, cl, e, c³, are first opened out, by manipulating the handle f,
and the flat linen blank, cut at intervals all around the edges (see Fig. 5), is
laid on the plate in the proper position with its edges resting on the stepped
front ends of the folders which stepped parts serve, as a gauge, the former is then
brought down on top of the linen blank by pulling down the lever m, and, there-
after, the folders are shot inwards towards each other by again manipulating the
handle f. This inward movement of the folders folds the cut edges of the linen
blank over the thin edges of the former so that the blank will now appear as at
Fig. 6. The folders are now shot back again and the former with the blank
adhering to it raised up into the position shown at Fig. 2 when the blank is
removed by hand and folded along the line a-, Fig. 6, into the shape shown
at Fig. 7. It is thereafter sewn in the usual manner. The plate is kept heated
by means of the Bunsen burner n below it so that the cloth when once folded and
pressed by the folders retains its shape.
The springs cause the folders to press on the edges of the blank with sufficient
pressure. The tension of these springs can be regulated by the nuts j¹.
In the treatment of cuff tabs the former and folders are simply made of a
different shape in order to make the proper shape of tab, otherwise the machine
is the same. Fig. 11 shows a former and folders e, c¹, 2, 3, suitable for making
cuff tabs. Fig. 12 shows the cuff tab after its edges have been folded on the
former whilst Fig. 13 shews the tab after it has been doubled up along the
line YY and sewn.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what
we consider novel and desire to claim is:-
1. In the manufacture of collar and cuff tabs the application and use of a
machine for shaping the linen blank and folding its edges, substantially as here-
in before described..
2. A machine for the purpose set forth characterized by a former for shaping
the blank and reciprocating folders for folding the edges of the blank, substan-
tially as herein before described.
3. In combination a heated plate, four folders movably fitted on the plate,
means for causing the folders to move towards and away from one another simul-

page_text: taneously and a former manipulated by a lever, substantially as hereinbefore
described.
4. The construction or general arrangement and combination of parts of the
machine substantially as hereinbefore described and shown on the drawings
annexed.
1111011 law of Cantan 1800
H. D. FITZPATRICK,
100, Wellington Street, Glasgow, Agent.