CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN CUTTING AND MAKING UP GLOVES
Year: 1844

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, SAMUEL
PRITCHETT, of Charlbury, in the County of Oxford, Glove Maker, send
greeting.
WHEREAS Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Royal Letters Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date at
Westminster, the Third day of October, in the eighth year of Her reign, did,
for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the said
Samuel Pritchett, Her especial licence, full power, sole privilege and authority,
that I, the said Samuel Pritchett, my executors, administrators, and assigns,
and such others as I, the said Samuel Pritchett, my executors, administrators,
or assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time
and at all times during the term of years therein mentioned, should and
lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within England, Wales, and the
Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, my Invention of "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN
CUTTING AND MAKING UP GLOVES;" in which said Letters Patent is contained a
proviso, obliging me, the said Samuel Pritchett, by an instrument in writing
under my hand and seal, particularly to describe and ascertain the nature of my
said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, and to cause
the same to be inrolled in Her Majesty's High Court of Chancery within
six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said in part
recited Letters Patent, as in and by the same, reference being thereunto had,
will more fully and at large appear.

page_text: NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said
Samuel Pritchett, do hereby declare that the nature of my said Invention,
and the manner in which the same is to be performed, is particularly described
and ascertained in and by the following description thereof, reference being
had to the Drawings hereunto annexed, and to the letters and figures marked
thereon (that is to say):-
My Improvements in Cutting and Making up Gloves consists in certain novel
methods of cutting or shaping a glove out of a skin or other material, whereby
when the glove is made up some of the ordinary seams may be dispensed with,
and consequently the glove will be less liable to become unsewn. The
principal seams which are dispensed with by my improved mode of cutting out
are the side seams. These seams are exceedingly liable to become unsewn,
and are also considered unsightly, and therefore I propose to dispense with
them by cutting out a glove in the manner shewn in the Drawings. By my
improved methods of cutting out, I throw the seam which closes the glove, and
answers the purpose of the side seam, to the inner or palm part of the hand,
and conduct this seam from the junction of any two fingers either to the
thumb scam or to the button slit. I prefer conducting the seam from the
junction of the index and middle finger to the thumb seam, as seen in Fig. 2
in the Drawings; but it may also be brought from between the second and
third or third and fourth fingers to the button slit, as shewn by dots at E and
Fin the same Figure. I am also enabled to make a glove of a smaller
number of pieces, as in some cases I dispense with those detached parts which
are technically called or known by the name of "fourchettes" and "quirks," and
in place thereof I leave on or cut out with the principal or hand part of the
glove certain portions in connection with the fingers, which, when sewed
together, answer precisely the same purpose. I sometimes, however, employ
one or more "fourchettes" of a peculiar form, but then I dispense with the
"quirks," as certain parts to supply their places are either cut out with and
from a portion of the "fourchettes," or the hand part of the glove. The
peculiarly shaped "fourchette" which I prefer, and therefore wish to claim, is
that shewn at C, Fig. 1. By means of this "fourchette" I dispense with a
separate "quirk," and when the glove is complete the strain will not be on the
scam, but on the stuff itself. It will be evident to any glove maker, that by
reducing the number of pieces of which a glove is composed, and consequently
the number of seams, that the labour and time required for sewing will be much
lessened, independent of the advantage of the glove being made more durable.
In the accompanying Drawings, Figs. 1 represent one method of cutting out
a glove so as to dispense with the side seams, and Fig. 2 represents the glove

page_text: complete. The part A of Fig. 1 forms the principal or hand part of the glove.
In this instance the ordinary side seams are dispensed with, a closing seam
being made in the palm of the hand, between the index and middle finger, as
before mentioned, and as seen in the complete glove at G, Fig. 2. In this glove
"fourchettes" of a peculiar form are employed, combining the "fourchettes"
and the "quirk" together. Two "fourchettes" of different forms are shewn at B
and C of Fig. 1. "Fourchettes" of a longitudinal form, somewhat similar to
the one shewn at B, have been heretofore used. The peculiarity of this
"fourchette" is the addition of the projecting part b, which acts as a "quirk"
and takes the steam off of that part of the scam which would otherwise be
liable to break away from the stitches. The peculiar form of the "fourchette"
C will be so evident from an inspection of the Drawings that it will require
no further description.
In order to shew more clearly the manner in which the different parts are
brought together, corresponding parts are marked with similar Figures.
and forming part of it.
Figs. 3 and 4 represent another method of cutting out and making up a
glove, in which the side seams and also the detached "fourchettes" are
dispensed with, certain fly pieces a, a, a, a, to answer the same purpose as
"fourchettes," being cut out with the body of the glove, as shewn in Fig. 3.
The inner part of the third finger is cut out separately, as seen at D in Figs 3.
and 4, the fly pieces to form the sides of the finger being also cut out with
Fig. 5 represents another method of cutting out a
glove so as to dispense with the side seams. The closing scam, in this
instance, is placed at the back of the hand and rims up one of the points; it
will not therefore be visible except at the wrist end of the glove, where I
propose to hide it by covering it over with a plain or ornamental piece of
leather or other material. The "fourchette" I should recommend, and intend
to employ for this glove, is the one shewn at C, Figs. 1 and 2, but the other
one B may be employed, or these detached portions may be altogether dis-
pensed with, by adopting a plan of cutting similar to that shewn at Figs. 3
and 4. Figs. 6 and 7 represent another mode of cutting out a glove. In this
instance the ordinary side seam is employed, but only one "fourchette" is
made use of (viz.), the one between the third and fourth finger. The inner
side of the second or middle finger is also formed by a detached piece D, the
pieces to supply the place of the "fourchette" being cut out with the piece
D, as in Figs. 3 and 4.
In all the above-described methods the thumb pieces are cut out separate
from the band part of the glove, and, as there was no peculiarity about them, I
did not think it necessary to make any particular allusion thereto; but in

page_text: Figs. 8 and 9 I have shewn a plan of cutting out a glove with the thumb in
connection with the main piece; by this means the entire glove is cut out in
two pieces only, and several seams are dispensed with. The inner side of the
third finger is formed by a detached piece with fly pieces, as at D in the
former Figures. The dotted lines in all the Figures represent the places
where the leather is folded over to complete the glove, and corresponding
parts are on all the Figures marked with similar figures of reference, to shew
which parts are brought in contact and are connected together.
Having now described my Invention, and the manner of carrying the same
into effect, I claim as the Invention secured to me by the herein-before in part
recited Letters Patent,―
First, cutting out and making up gloves in such a manner as to bring the
closing seam either to the palm of the hand, as seen in Figs. 1, 2, 3, 4, 8,
and 9, or to the back, as seen in Fig. 5, so as to obviate the necessity of
making side seams.
Secondly, the peculiar form of "fourchettes" shewn and described at B
and C in Fig. 1.
And thirdly, the various plans above shewn and described, whereby several
of the seams which are generally made in gloves are dispensed with.
In witness whereof, I, the said Samuel Pritchett, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Second day of April, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and forty-five.
AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the same Second day of April, in the
year above mentioned, the aforesaid Samuel Pritchett came before our Lady
the Queen in Her Chancery, and acknowledged the Specification aforesaid,
and all and every thing therein contained, in form above written. And also
the Specification was stamped according to the tenor of the Statute in that
case made and provided.
SAOUT T
Inrolled the Third day of April, in the year above written.