IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE AND CONSTRUCTION OF CORSETS AND SUSPENDERS FOR LADIES AND CHILDREN
Year: 1877

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Edwin Powley Alexander, of 14, Southampton Buildings,
in the County of Middlesex, Consulting Engineer and Patent Agent, for the
Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE AND CONSTRUCTION OF
CORSETS AND SUSPENDERS FOR LADIES AND CHILDREN." A communication
from abroad by Lucien Calvin Warner, of the City, County, and State of New
York, in the United States of America.
ealed the 27th October 1877, and dated the 29th May 1877.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Edwin Powley Alexander at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 29th May 1877.
EDWIN POWLEY ALEXANDER, of 14, Southampton Buildings, in the County of
Middlesex, Consulting Engineer and Patent Agent. "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE
MANUFACTURE AND CONSTRUCTION OF CORSETS AND SUSPENDERS FOR LADIES AND.
CHILDREN." A communication from abroad by Lucien Calvin Warner, of the
City, County, and State of New York, in the United States of America.
This Invention relates to corsets constructed to cover and protect the breasts, and
to fit nicely to and support the figure.
Also to the mode of making the corsets so as to facilitate and cheapen their
construction, impart increased stiffness without rendering them unduly rigid, increase
their symmetry and durability.
[
Also to a child's corset or waist, constructed to facilitate the attachment of
garments, and transfer the weight of the latter to the shoulder straps without
limiting or straining the body of the article.
Also to supporters for the stockings and bandages, whereby the weight is trans-.
ferred to the shoulders.
.
"
Also to a device for exhibiting corsets, waists, and supporters.
The improved corset is what is termed a bosom-pad corset," that is, a corset
extending above the breasts, and having hollow, projecting, and rounded portions,
which receive the breasts, and are stiffened so as to render unnecessary the use of
any of the usual pads, covering the breasts when sore, and preventing the clothing
from bearing thereon. It is provided with the usual hooks at the front, and at the
[Price 6d 1

page_text: back with the usual eyelets; and straps may be used so as to transfer the weight of
the corset and of the garments which are connected to the hooks to the shoulders.
In order to impart the proper fullness and shape to the bosom portions of the
corset, each side of the latter is made of several sections, which extend from the
bottom to the top, the central section or the two central sections being dart-shaped,
so that when all the sections are secured edge to edge there will be the proper
fullness at the breasts. While the shape of these continuous sections will suffice in
many instances to impart the desired fullness, it is often best to employ short side
gores," which are fitted in slashes made in or between the sections.
In order to impart the requisite stiffness and yet maintain a proper flexibility,
long pockets, extending the full length of the corset, are formed for the reception of
long bones, shorter pockets for bones extending part of the length, and shorter series
of parallel or nearly parallel pockets, arranged close together, for smaller bones.
These series of pockets may be nearly vertical, and may be auxiliary to or partly
composed of the long pockets, or they may be diagonal. While the longer bones
constitute the skeleton of the corset and preserve its outline, these series of short
bones impart the proper flexible form to the breast.
The pockets may be formed by parallel series of stitches a short distance apart,
connecting the two thicknesses of cloth composing the corset body, or by overlying
strips of cloth sewed to the body at both edges.
In order to secure the hooks which support the clothing, eyelets are used and
washer plates are employed on which to spread the ends of the eyelets and prevent
them from drawing through the cloth.
In order to permit ready access to the breast in nursing, the bosom pàd is formed
with a receptacle having a straight lower edge, which supports the breast, preventing
it from falling forward, avoiding the pinching of the same; and a cover is formed
by a flap secured at the top by an eyelet on which it pivots, so as to be turned to
one side, and the lower end has a button hole adapted to a button, but this end
may be secured in any suitable manner.
The requisite stiffness is imparted to the nursing pad by means of transverse ribs
inserted in pockets above and below the opening.
In order to prevent the protruding seams, which would result from inserting the
ribs in the usual manner in the open ends of pockets after the cloth sections are
united, the sections are formed separately with open pockets, the ribs are inserted
in each section, and the whole then sewed together without any other seams than
are necessary to secure the sections, the bones thereby being prevented from getting
out of place.
The making of the bosom-pad corset of continuous sections extending from the
top to the bottom facilitates and cheapens the manufacture, as the scams are nearly
straight and the parts require no preliminary basting.
The insertion of the bones in the separate parts before sewing aids in attaining
like results, and the corsets produced are more symmetrical and may be better
adapted to the figure than those of the usual construction.
In the improved corsets specially adapted to be used by children, the object is to
construct a waist or corset to facilitate the attachment of garments thereto, and to
transfer the weight of the latter to the shoulder straps without twisting or straining
the body of the article. The waist or corset is therefore provided with straps for
extending over the shoulders, and having at the lower edge tongnes to which are
attached the buttons, hooks, or other devices for securing the straps of stocking
supporters. There are four tongues and four points of attachment for stocking
supporters, two at the front and two at the back, so that each stocking may be
supported at both the front and rear, thus holding it up more evenly than when the
attachment is made at only one point as heretofore.
It will be apparent that the four points of attachment may be provided in waists
having straight lower edges. The tongues, however, greatly facilitate the attach-
ment of the supporters, inasmuch as they hold the buttons or other fastenings below
the waistband, where they are always difficult to reach, owing to the tightness of

page_text: the clothing at this point. The tongues also have a slight lateral play, thus
accomodating themselves to the movements of the wearer, and preventing the
twisting of the waist or corset, which is apt to occur when the attachments are
made directly to the body of the article.
It will be seen that in corsets or waists for older children or adults the attachment
for the skirts or other garments may be carried by the tongues instead of being
placed upon the body of the waist or corset as heretofore.
In order to prevent the twisting and diagonal strains common in ordinary corset
waists, the points for attaching the stocking supporters are placed below, directly in
a line with the points where the shoulder straps are connected to the body, thus
bringing the strain directly upon the shoulders; and in order to prevent the
wrinkling and folding of the waist the same is corded at five points, namely, in the
centre, at the front, and directly below each end of each shoulder strap. As the
cording is in a line with the strain upon the shoulder straps greater stiffness is
imparted to it, and there is less liability of the waist folding and wrinkling than
there would be if the cording were differently arranged. Buttons may be arranged
upon the waist as usual for the attachment of various garments.
Where it is not desirable to use a corset in supporting the stockings or other
garments, the latter may yet be suspended from the shoulders by a supporter
consisting of straps, each extending over one of the shoulders, crossing the breast,
and back diagonally, with the lower ends connected together at a point at the side
of the leg near the thigh. These straps are capable of extension and retraction,
and are brought together or cross each other at the front and back, and a button,
hook, or other fastening is secured at each of the crossings, and other buttons are
placed at the lower ends of the straps.
The stocking supporters are connected to the lower buttons and to the stockings,
cach stocking being thus supported by a strap crossing the opposite shoulder, and
hanging freely so as to accomodate itself to all the movements of the body without
restricting the motion or binding on any part thereof. This arrangement allows of
a most convenient and accomodating support and attachment for the bandage, the
ends of which are secured to clasps or attachments at the lower ends of bands hung
detachably from the buttons or other retainers.
Both shoulder straps may consist of one piece passing through loops, to which the
ends of two side straps are connected, or the entire supporter may be made of one
strap folded, looped, and having a sliding connection. It will be seen, however, that
these constructions all constitute practically two continuous straps extending each
over one shoulder to the side of the opposite leg, and are equivalents of each other.
It will be apparent that the supporter may be cheaply constructed, and is easily
adjustable to fit persons of different sizes.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said Edwin Powley Alexander in the Great Seal. Patent Office on the
7th November 1877.
EDWIN POWLEY ALEXANDER, of 14, Southampton Buildings, in the County of
Middlesex, Consulting Engineer and Patent Agent. "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE
MANUFACTURE AND CONSTRUCTION OF CORSETS AND SUSPENDERS FOR LADIES AND
CHILDREN." A communication from abroad by Lucien Calvin Warner, of the
City, County, and State of New York, in the United States of America.
The said Invention relates.—
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said Edwin Powley Alexander in the Great Seal. Patent Office on the
7th November 1877.
EDWIN POWLEY ALEXANDER, of 14, Southampton Buildings, in the County of
Middlesex, Consulting Engineer and Patent Agent. "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE
MANUFACTURE AND CONSTRUCTION OF CORSETS AND SUSPENDERS FOR LADIES AND
CHILDREN." A communication from abroad by Lucien Calvin Warner, of the
City, County, and State of New York, in the United States of America.
The said Invention relates.—
First. To corsets constructed to cover and protect the breasts, and to fit nicely to
and support the figure.
Secondly. To the mode of making the corsets so as to facilitate and cheapen their
construction, impart increased stiffness without rendering them unduly rigid, and
increase their symmetry and durability.

page_text: :
Thirdly. To a child's corset or waist, constructed to facilitate the attachment of
garments, and transfer the weight of the latter to the shoulder straps without
straining the body of the article.
Fourthly. To supporters for the stockings and bandages, whereby the weight is
transferred to the shoulders.
The first and second parts of the Invention are illustrated in Figures 1 to 9, in
which Figure 1 is a view showing one form of improved corset with one closed
boson and the other open for nursing; Figures 2 and 3, sections of corsets differently
constructed; Figure 4, a section on the line 1-2, Figure 3; Figures 5 and 6, views
showing the shapes of the sections of which the corsets are made, and illustrating
the mode of manufacture; and Figure 7, a sectional view, showing the mode of
attaching the suspension hooks; Figure 8, a view showing another modification;
Figure 9, a section on the line 3-4, Figure 8.
The corset shown in these Figures is what is termed a "bosom-pad corset," that
is, a corset extending above the breasts, and having hollow, projecting, and rounded
portions E, E, which receive the breasts, and are stiffened so as to render unnecessary
the use of any of the usual pads, covering the breasts when sore, and preventing the
clothing from bearing thereon. The corset is provided with the usual hooks at the
. front, and at the back with the usual eyelets; and straps f, f, may be used so as to
transfer the weight of the corset and of the garments which are connected to the
'hooks e to the shoulders.
In order to impart the proper fullness and shape to the bosom portions of the
'corset, each side of the latter is made of several sections 1, 2, 3, 4, Figures 5 and 6,
which extend from the bottom to the top, the central section 2, Figure 1, or 3,
Figure 5, or the two central sections, Figure 6, being dart-shaped, as shown, so
that when all the sections are secured edge to edge there will be the proper fullness
at the breasts. While the shape of these continuous sections will suffice in many
instances to impart the desired fullness it is often best to employ short side gores D,
which are fitted in slits x made in or between the sections.
A most advantageous construction, and one imparting great finish, symmetry, and
beauty to the article, is shown in Figure 1, where the long dart 3 and side
pieces 1 and 2 with slashes and inserted gores compose each front side.
In order to impart the requisite stiffness and yet maintain a proper flexibility,
long pockets c, c, extending the full length of the corset, are formed for the reception
(of long bones, shorter pockets c¹ for bones extending part of the length, and shorter
series of parallel or nearly parallel pockets 8, s, are arranged close together for
smaller bones. These series of pockets may be nearly vertical, and may be auxiliary
to or partly composed of the long pockets, or they may be diagonal, as shown. The
long bones c extending through the darts or sections 2 or 3, Figures 1 and 5, aid in
imparting stiffness to the entire front section of the corset as well as in giving shape
to the breast sections. While the longer bones c, c¹, constitute the skeleton of the
corset and preserve its outline, these series of short bones & impart the proper
flexible forms to the breast section, preserving the same, but yielding when
necessary.
The pockets may be formed by parallel series of stitches a short distance apart,
connecting the two thicknesses of cloth composing the corset body, or by overlaying
strips of cloth sewed to the body at both edges, Figures 3 and 4. The latter
mode is preferable for some reasons, It permits the corset to be made thinner and
the bones to be laid directly over the seams where the sections are sewed together,
which cannot be done by the mode first described. Where the overlaying strips are
used they may be laid in curved lines, as shown in Figure 3, so as to hold the bones
in curved positions, and thus aid in imparting the form to the parts.
In order to secure the hooks e which support the clothing, eyelets e¹ are used, and
washer plates e² are employed, on which to spread the ends of the eyelets and
prevent them from drawing the cloth.
In order to permit ready access to the breast in nursing, the bosom pad is formed
with a receptacle t having a straight lower edge s; which supports the breast,

page_text: preventing it from falling forward, avoiding the pinching of the same, and a cover
is formed by a flap I of any suitable shape. This flap is secured at the top by an
eyelet d which pivots the flap so as to be turned to one side, and the lower end has.
a button hole adapted to a button u, but this end may be secured in any suitable
manner.
The opening t may be formed by cutting directly across both sections 2-3, as
shown in dotted lines Figure 6, but it is preferable to use sections 1, 2, 4, and with
intermediate short pieces v, vl, as shown in Figure 6, the top edge of the piece v
forming the edge s¹ of the opening.
The requisite stiffness is imparted to the nursing pad by means of transverse
ribs r, r, inserted in pockets above and below the opening t, as shown in Figure 1.
A simpler form of construction is shown in Figure 8, where the front section has
two pieces a, a¹, each slit to receive a gore D, & cut away or separated to receive.
between them a central gore D¹. In making this form the front cloth sections are
stitched together first from a to a¹, the lining sections are then similarly stitched,
and the front and lining are then secured together with the gores inserted
between them.
In order to prevent the breast receptacles from fattening at the centre, transverse
ribs p may be arranged inside the corset, as shown in dotted lines, Figure 8, and
in section, Figure 9, leaving more elastic portions p, p, which will yield under
pressure.
The shape of the pieces composing the corset and their relation and arrangement
has been fully set forth, and the node of connecting them.
The securing of the bones constitutes the second part of the Invention, which
relates especially to the corsets, in which the overlaying rib pockets are not used,
will now be described.
In order to prevent the protruding seams, which would result from inserting the
ribs in the usual manner in the open ends of the pockets after the cloth sections
are united, the sections are formed separately with open pockets, the ribs are inserted
in each section, and the whole then sewed together without any other seams than
are necessary to secure the sections, the bones thereby being prevented from getting
out of place.
The making of the bosom-pad corset of continuous sections extending from the
top to the bottom facilitates and cheapens the manufacture, as the seams are nearly
straight and the parts require no preliminary basting.
The insertion of the bones in the separate parts before sewing aids in attaining
like results, and the corsets produced are more symmetrical and may be better
adapted to the figure than those of the usual construction.
The third part of the Invention is illustrated in Figure 10, and relates to corsets
specially adapted to be used by children, the object being to construct a waist or
corset to facilitate the attachment of garments thereto, and to transfer the weight
of the latter to the shoulder straps without twisting or straining the body of the
article. A represents the body of the waist or corset provided with straps a, a,
extending over the shoulders, and having at the lower edge tongues b, to which are
attached the buttons, hooks, or other devices for securing the straps of stocking
supporters. There are four tongues and four points of attachment for stocking
supporters, two at the front and two at the back, so that each stocking may be
supported at both the front and rear, thus holding it up more evenly than when the
attachment is made at one point as usual.
It will be apparent that the four points of attachment may be provided in waists
having straight lower edges. The tongues a, however, greatly facilitate the attach-
ment of the supporters, inasmuch as they hold the buttons or other fastenings below
the waistband, where they are always difficult to reach, owing to the tightness of
the clothing at this point. The tongues also have a slight lateral play, thus
accomodating themselves to the movements of the wearer, and preventing the
twisting of the waist or corset, which is apt to occur when the attachments are
made directly to the body of the article.

page_text: It will be seen that in corsets or waists for older children or adults the attachment
for the skirts or other garments may be carried by the tongues b instead of being
placed upon the body of the waist or corset as heretofore.
In order to prevent the twisting and diagonal strains common in ordinary corset
waists, the points for attaching the stocking supporters are placed below, directly in
a line with the points x where the shoulder straps are connected to the body, thus
bringing the strain directly upon the shoulders; and in order to prevent the
wrinkling and folding of the waist the same is corded at five points, namely, in the
centre, at the front, and at y, y, directly below each end of each shoulder strap. As
the cording at y, y, is in a line with the strain upon the shoulder straps, greater
stiffness is imparted to it, and there is less liability of the waist folding and
wrinkling than there would be if the cording were differently arranged. Buttons c, c,
may be arranged upon the waist as usual for the attachment of various garments.
Where it is not desirable to use a corset in supporting the stockings and other
garments, the latter may yet be suspended from the shoulders by the device illus-
trated in Figures 11, 12, 13, and 14, which illustrate the fourth part of the Invention.
The supporter consists of straps a, a', each extending over one of the shoulders,
crossing the breast and back diagonally, with the lower ends connected together at
a point at the side of the leg near the thigh, as shown in Figure 11. The straps
are capable of extension and retraction, and are brought together or cross at the
points x, y, at the front and back, and a button, hook, or other fastening e, is secured
at each of said crossings, and other buttons e¹ are placed at the lower ends of
the straps.
The stocking supporters C, C, are connected to the lower buttons and to the
stockings, each stocking being thus supported by a strap crossing the opposite
shoulder and hanging freely so as to accomodate itself to all the movements of the
body without restricting the motion or binding on any part thereof. This arrange-
ment allows of a most convenient and accomodating support and attachment for
the bandage, the ends of which are secured to clasps or attachments t at the lower
ends of bands D, D¹, hung detachably from the buttons or other retainers e.
Both shoulder straps may consist of one piece passing through loops m, m, to
which the ends of two side straps are connected, as shown in Figures 12 and 14; or
the entire supporter may be made of one strap, folded, looped, and having a sliding
connection at m¹, as shown in Figure 13. It will be seen, however, that these
constructions all constitute practically two continuous straps extending each over
one shoulder to the side of the opposite leg, and are equivalents of each other. It
will be apparent that the supporter may be cheaply constructed, and is casily
adjustable to fit persons of different sizes.
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of the said
Invention, and the manner in which the same is or may be used or carried into
effect, I would observe in conclusion that what I consider to be novel and original,
and therefore claim as the Invention secured to me by the herein-before in part
recited Letters Patent is,-
First. A corset in which each front piece has a breast receptacle E, and is
composed of sections extending from the upper to the lower edge, and aiding in
forming said receptacle.
Second. A corset in which a continuous piece or dart 2 (Figure 1) extends through
the breast receptacles and between the other sections.
Third. The combination of the continuous piece extending through the breast
receptacle and the side darts D, D.
Fourth. The combination of the sections a, a¹, and intermediate gore D¹ (Figure 8).
Fifth. The combination of the sections a, a', and gores D, D, DI, (Figure 8).
Sixth. A corset in which the bosom receptacles are stiffened by series of small
bones 8, s, arranged side by side.
Seventh. A corset in which the breast receptacles are stiffened by series of ribs,
some of which extend the length of the corset.
Eighth. The long rib c extending through the section 2 (Figure 1).

page_text: Ninth. The combination of the breast receptacle and ribs p arranged to leave
flexible portions p, p.
Tenth. A bosom-pad corset provided with pockets formed on the breast receptacle
and over the seams by overlaying strips, as set forth.
Eleventh. A bosom-pad nursing corset, having an opening in the breast receptacle.
Twelfth. A bosom-pad nursing corset, having an opening t and covering flap.
Thirteenth. The transverse ribs r, r, arranged adjacent to the opening t, as
set forth.
Fourteenth. The washer e² combined with the hook e and eyelet e¹.
Fifteenth. The improvement in the manufacture of corsets, consisting in forming
pockets in the sections, inserting the ribs, and then sewing the sections together.
Sixteenth. A child's corset, having tongues b at the lower edges, provided with
attachments, as set forth.
Seventeenth. A child's corset, having cording extending vertically from top to
bottom.
Eighteenth. The cording y, y, arranged between the points y and the tongues b.
Ninteenth. The combination of the straps a, a¹, for extending over the shoulders
to the opposite sides, as set forth.
Twentieth. The straps arranged to bear on the shoulders and extend to the sides,
crossing the back and chest, or back only, and carrying attachments at the lower
ends, as set forth.
Twenty-first. The central strap D, D, combined with the supporters for the
purpose set forth..
In witness whereof, I, the said Edwin Powley Alexander, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Seventh day of November, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and seventy-seven.
EDWIN P. ALEXANDER. (L.S.)
Witness,
FRED. J. RAPSON,
Clerk to E. P. Alexander.
Consulting Engineer and Patent Agent,
14, Southampton Buildings,
Chancery Lane,
W.C.