A WEAVER'S LOOM, WITH COMBS OPENED AT THE SUMMIT, AND WITH MOVEABLE FLOATING CHAINS
Year: 1859

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Frederick de Castro Jones, of 29, Tavistock Street,
Covent Garden, in the County of Middlesex, for the Invention of "A
WEAVER'S LOOM, WITH COMBS OPENED AT THE SUMMIT, AND WITH MOVEABLE
FLOATING CHAINS."-A communication from abroad by Paul Gadrat, of
48, Rue Basse du Rempart, Paris..
Sealed the 9th March 1860, and dated the 11th November 1859.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Frederick de Castro Jones
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on
the 11th November 1859.
I, FREDERICK DE CASTRO JONES, of 29, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden,
in the County of Middlesex, do hereby declare the nature of the said
Invention for "A WEAVER'S LOOM, WITH COMBS OPENED AT THE SUMMIT, AND
WITH MOVEABLE FLOATING. CHAINS," being a communication to me from abroad
by Paul Gadrat, of 48bis, Rue Basse du Rempart, Paris, to be as follows:-
It is composed, in the first place, of a frame, formed by four posts united
by cross bars. The stitches or healds of the ordinary looms are replaced here
by one or more combs opened at their summit. These combs are fixed to
rods that cross horizontally the breadth of the looms parallel to the feeding
cloth. Each comb is composed of a row of plate of metal regularly distant,

page_text: and fixed in the vertical sense to the rod that serves as a fulcrous for them,
and forms the edge of the comb. The plates are pierced near to their upper
end with an opening of needle's eye, into which are passed the threads of the
fixed chain stretched in the length of the loom, and having for purpose to
produce the tissue or canvas into which the nap of the article is to be put.
As to the materiels which shall compose the nap of the tissue and the design,
they are disposed in the form of floating chains independent of the fixed
chain and of the loom, and folded on moveable rollers. The axle of the
batten is at the lower part of the frame of the loom. It is provided in its
horizontal length with a comb, also open at its summit, the plates of which
are exactly corresponding to those of the comb or combs, into which pass the
threads of the fixed chain. The form and arrangements of the combs open
at their summit, working. upwards, so as to leave free the surface of the loom ;
the independence of the floating chains, prepared distinct from the fixed
chain; the mobility of the rollers, that allow of the introduction in each pick
of the fabric of a combination of different colors, constitute the principle
of our weaving system; but there are still auxiliary pieces depending there-
from and completing the same, and which, on account of the novelty of
their use, must be comprised in the Patent. We will now number & describe
them.
1st. Pincers composed of two peices, supported by the feeding cloth of the
loom, and is near the border of the fixed chain on its breadth. Its upper
jaw is moveable; it opens by means of a pedal that causes it to move. It
has for object to receive and clasp the end of the threads of the floating chains
that act in succession.
2°. Each floating chain. is provided with a slide, moveable the same as
the roller, and having for object to present to the pincers in due order the ends
of the threads. This slide is composed of two flat rods, each being of the
same length as the roller, on which the floating chain is put. These two
rods approach each other at right angles by one of their side edges, and are
attached by means of springs. The floating chain is pinched on its whole
breadth between the edges of the two rods, and the threads of the same are
passed each between the teeth of a closed comb attached to one of the rods at
the edge opposite to that edge that concurs for forming the summit of the
angle. We name this closed comb "the rack." A set of levers placed at
each end of the slide allow to remove or to cause the two edges, which form
the summit of the angle, to come to junction, when the slide must be moved
along the threads of the floating chain, or, on the contrary, when the threads
must remain pinched between the two edges.

page_text: 3°. A cylinder, called thread-rabatter, is horizontally suspended trans-
versally to the fixed chain behind the open combs, by means of two arms
attiched to the frame, and turning on an axle. The thread-rabatter serve to
bow, by means of a pression, the fixed chain downwards, and facilitates the
introduction across the threads of this chain of the threads of the floating
chain having their ends held by the pincers.
4°. Underneath the pincers and parallel to them is found a triangular
peice of metal, called the support piece, which is united to the feeding cloth
of the looms by means of the screws of the same, which go in a perpendicular
direction. This piece supports the article at the joint where the weaving is
operating, as this piece of support can rise and descend at will along the
vertical screws by means of the nuts which hold the same underneath; it
serves, at the same time, as a regulator of the height of velvet for the manu-
facture of the velveted articles.
5°. Between the pincers and the support peice is a set of knives, which,
being moved by mechanical contrivance, passes the pincers following a
curved line when the ends of the threads of the floating chain that have been
brought by the slide under the pincers are to be cut. We name this last
peice the knife. In order to cut the threads neat, they are firmly held on
the pincers by means of an iron cross bar, called thread-holder; that is
then adjusted to it by means of a hook called the clasping hook. The thread-
holder forms, by its combination with the pincers, a vice, holding the row of
the threads of the floating chain that is to be cut. The knife projecting
beyond the pincers comes into a groove on the edge of the thread holder,
and cuts, when passing, those threads that are held in the above vice.
We will not describe here those peices which are common to our loom and
to the loom already known, such as the rollers for folding the fixed chains, for
rolling the tissue up, &c. The Plan annexed to these Presents will show the
alterations in the particulars which they have undergone for the sake of our
convenience; but these alterations can be made at will, and are not a
necessary consequence of our principle.
THE WEAVING.
The principal purpose of our Invention being, as already mentioned, the

page_text: We will add, that our velveted tissues are not only infinitely richer than
the carpets of the trade, but also much stronger, though consuming the
precious materials in much less quantity. Indeed, whatever may be the
number of colours, we do not lose in the back of the tissue the threads
which have momentarily done their work on the front. Our loss of precious
material is then unimportant.
The drawer has finished his sketch. As he knows that the number of
colours is not an hindrance for us, he has freely combined the degradation
of colours according to his fancy. The reader on his turn arranges his threads
on as many distinct rollers as there are distinct colors combined in the report
of the drawing. Also, if we suppose that the report of the drawing requires
hundred picks or wefts, and that the arrangement of shades varies for each
pick, we will have hundred rollers, and on each roller the colors will be
put in the necessary order, and numbered to show the order from one to
hundred.
1st, Velveted tissues.-After some plies of shuttle, in order to make the
bottom of cloth, the moveable roller or floating chain No. 1. is adjusted on
a bearing above the loom. You cause to come to you the slide, and with it
the end of the threads which is held between the pincers. You open the
slide, and cause it to rise along the floating chain to a joint where it hangs
over the open combs. One of the combs is risen by means of a pedal, acting
as a lever, and with the comb one-half of the threads of the fixed chain is
risen, which forms the opening by which the weft has to pass.
You move
the thread-rabatter, and thereby the fixed chain is inclined behind the plates
of the comb; you can then move the slides downwards, also behind the
comb, and introduce the threads of the floating chain between the plates, and
consequently between the threads of the fixed chain which they hold. A
thread of the weft is passed into the opening of the fixed chain above the
floating chain. The thread-rabatter is now left free; the fixed chain ceases
to be bowed; the slide is also left free, and rises to its former position. The
thread of the weft is beaten with the batten, in order to tie the nap; the
comb is allowed to descend, and a second comb is risen. The weft is again
passed through the new thread, crossing under the floating chain; the batten
is again moved, so that the threads that are destined to form the velvet àre
straddled in an upwards direction on the weft. The thread-holder is moved
towards the pincers; afterwards the knife is moved, and cuts all the threads
of the floating chain, and a pick of the tissue is made in this manner.
2°. Tapestry having a short nap on one side and velvet on the other.-
You proceed as above related until the introduction of the floating chain in

page_text: the fixed chain, but with this difference, that the two combs have been risen
together, and that the threads of the floating chain have crossed the whole
of the fixed chain. Then, at the crossing of the two chains a copper wire is.
passed; the floating chain is risen, but is partly retained downwards by the-
said wire; the floating chain is again lowered, introducing the threads, every
one between the plates near to those between which they had anteriorly
entered. A second rod or wire is passed between the two chains, and the
floating chain is again risen; the two combs are alternately risen, in order to
pass the weft; afterwards the knife is moved, and cuts. the threads of the
floating chain, of which the ends are removed under the tissue by means of
the pression on the two copper rods; you pile up with. the batten, and a
double pick is made. Here the threads of the floating chain are sitting in
a downwards direction on the threads of the fixed chain. It is. the Gobelin:
stitch.
The various movements which we have described are executed' with a speed?
sufficient to enable an ordinary working man to make at least one metre of
current cloth each day, or one metre of extra fine tissue in five days, while
at the Gobelin's manufacture one metre of carpet requires on average three-
hundred and thirty days of work, as it results from a notice published in.
1853 by the Director of the Imperial Manufacture.
We will remark, that as our loom does not require any particular beaming:
for each design, the moveable rollers can be successively put on various looms
working together, and produce then as many peices of cloth of the same-
pattern by means of a reading only.
Having described the nature of our Invention, and the manner of per-
forming the same, we declare that what we claim as of our Invention are,-
the various arrangements and mechanical contrivancies in substance as herein-
before described; the form and arrangements of the various parts of the loom,
and the manner of using the same, for the manufacture of the carpets,. in.
substance as herein-before described. and represented in. the Drawings hereunto.
annexed.

page_text: WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Eleventh day of November, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-nine, in the twenty-third year
of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto
me, the said Frederick de Castro Jones, Her special licence that I, the said
Frederick de Castro Jones, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such
others as I, the said Frederick de Castro Jones, my executors, administrators,
and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to
time and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should
and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom
of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an
Invention for "A WEAVER'S LOOM WITH COMBS OPENED AT THE SUMMIT, AND
WITH MOVEABLE FLOATING CHAINS," (a communication from abroad by Paul
Gadrat, of 48bis, Rue Basse du Rempart, Paris,) upon the condition (amongst
others) that I, the said Frederick de Castro Jones, my executors or admi-
nistrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of their
hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the
said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and
cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six
calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters
Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Frederick de Castro Jones, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the follow-
ing statement and accompanying Drawings (that is to say) :-
My Invention consists of a weaver's loom, with combs opened at the
summit, and with moveable floating chains. It is composed, in first place,
of a frame formed by four posts united by cross bars. The stitches or bealds
of the ordinary looms are replaced here by one or more combs opened at
their summit. These combs are fixed to rods that cross horizontally the
breadth of the looms parallel to the feeding cloth. Each comb is composed
of a row of plates of metal, regularly distant, and fixed, in the vertical sense,
to the rod that serves as a fulcrum for them, and forms the edge of the comb.
The plates are pierced near to their upper end with an opening or needle's
eye, into which are passed the threads of the fixed chain stretched in the
length of the loom, and having for purpose to produce the tissue or canvass
into which the nap of the article is to be put. As to the materials which
shall compose the nap of the tissue and the design, they are disposed in the
form of floating chains, independant of the fixed chain and of the loom, and

page_text: folded on moveable rollers. The axle of the batten is at the lower part of
the frame of the loom. It is provided in its horizontal length with a comb,
also open at its summit, the plates of which are exactly corresponding
to those of the comb or combs into which pass the threads of the fixed
chain. The form and arrangement of the combs open at their summit,
working upwards so as to leave free the surface of the loom, the independance
of the floating chains prepared distinct from the fixed chain, the mobility of
the rollers that allow of the introduction in each pick of the fabric of a com-
bination of different colours, constitute the essential principle of our weaving
system; but there are still auxiliary pieces depending therefrom, and completing
the same, and which, on account of the novelty of their use, must be comprised
in the Patent. We will now number and describe them.
1st. Pincers composed of two pieces, supported by the feeding cloth of the
loom, and is near the border of the fixed chain on its breadth. Its upper jaw
is moveable; it opens by means of a pedal that causes it to move. It has
for object to receive and clasp the end of the threads of the floating chains
that act in succession.
2nd. Each floating chain is provided with a slide, moveable the same as
the roller, and having for object to present to the pincers in a due order the
end of the threads. This slide is composed of two flat rods, each being of
the same length as the roller on which the floating chain is put. These two
rods approach each other at right angles by one of their side edges, and are
attached by means of springs. The floating chain is pinched on its whole
breadth between the edges of the two rods, and the threads of the same are
passed each between the teeth of a closed comb attached to one of the rods at
the edge opposite to that edge that concurs for forming the summit of the angle.
We name this closed comb "the rack." A set of levers placed at each end
of the slide allow to remove, or to cause the two edges which form the summit
of the angle to come to junction, when the slide must be moved along the
threads of the floating chain, or, on the contrary, when the threads must
remain pinched between the two edges.
3rd. A cylinder, called thread-rabatter, is horizontally suspended trans-
versely to the fixed chain, behind the open combs, by means of two arms
attached to the frame, and turning on an axle. The thread-rabatter serves
to bow, by means of a pression, the fixed chain downwards, and facilitates
the introduction across the threads of this chain of the threads of the floating
chain, having their ends held by the pincers.
4th. Underneath the pincers and parallel to them is found a triangular
piece of metal, called the support piece, which is united to the feeding cloth

page_text: according to his fancy. The reader on his turn arranges his threads on as
many distinct rollers as there are distinct colours combined in the report of the
drawing; also, if we suppose that the report of the drawing requires a hundred
picks or wefts, and that the arrangement of shades varies for each pick, we
will have hundred rollers, and on each roller the colours will be put in the
necessary order, and numbered to show the order from one to hundred.
1st. Velveted tissues.-After some plies of shuttle, in order to make the
bottom of cloth, the moveable roller or floating chain No. 1 is adjusted on a
bearing above the loom, you cause to come to you the slide, and with it the
end of the threads, which is held between the pincers, you open the slide and
cause it to rise along the floating chain to a point where it hangs over the
open combs. One of the combs is risen by means of a pedal, acting as a
lever, and with the comb one half of the threads of the fixed chain is risen,.
which forms the opening by which the weft has to pass, you move the thread-
rabatter, and thereby the fixed chain is inclined behind the plates of the comb;
you can then move the slide downwards also behind the comb, and introduce
the threads of the floating chain between the plates, and consequently between
the threads of the fixed chain, which they hold. A thread of the weft is
passed into the opening of the fixed chain above the floating chain. The
thread-rabatter is now left free, the fixed chain ceases to be bowed, the slide
is also left free, and rises to its former position. The thread of the weft is
beaten with the batten, in order to tie the nap; the comb is allowed to
descend, and a second comb is risen; the weft is again passed through the new
thread crossing under the floating chain; the batten is again moved, so that
the threads that are destined to form the velvet are straddled in an upward
direction on the weft. The thread-holder is moved towards the pincers, after-
wards the knife is moved, and cuts all the threads of the floating chain, and a
pick of the tissue is made in. this manner.
2nd. Tapestry having a short nap on one side and velvet on the other. -
You proceed, as above related, until the introduction of the floating chain in
the fixed chain, but with this difference, that the two combs have been risen
together, and that the threads of the floating chain have crossed the whole of
the fixed chain; then, at the crossing of the two chains, a copper wire is
passed; the floating chain is risen, but is partly retained downwards by the
said wire. The floating chain is again lowered, introducing the threads, every
one between the plates near to those between which they had anteriorly
entered. A second rod or wire is passed between the two chains, and the
floating chain is again risen; the two combs are alternately risen in order to
pass the weft; afterwards the knife is moved, and cuts the threads of the

page_text: floating chain, of which the ends are removed under the tissue by means of the
pression on the two copper rods, you pile up with the batten, and a double
pick is made. Here the threads of the floating chain are sitting in a
downward direction on the threads of the fixed chain. It is the Gobelin's
stitch.
The various movements which we-have described are executed with a speed
sufficient to enable an ordinary workman to make at least one metre of current
cloth each day, or one metre of extra fine tissue in five days, while at the
Gobelin's manufacture one metre of carpet requires in average 330 days of
works, as it results from a notice published in 1858 by the Director of the
Imperial Manufacture.
We will remark that, as our loom does not require any particular beaming
for each design, the moveable rollers can be successively put on various looms
working together, and produce then as many pieces of cloth of the same
pattern by means of a reading only.
Having described the nature of our Invention, and the manner of per-
forming the same, we declare that what we claim as of our Invention are the
various arrangements and mechanical contrivances, in substance as herein-
before described, the form and arrangement of the various parts of the loom,
and the manner of using the same for the manufacture of the carpets, in
substance as herein-before described, and represented in the Drawings here-
unto annexed..
In witness whereof, I, the said Frederick de Castro Jones, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, this Fifteenth day of March, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty.
DE CASTRO TONES
F. DE CASTRO JONES. (L.c.)