IMPROVEMENTS IN APPARATUS FOR SHAPING HAT BRIMS
Year: 1886

page_text: "
I, LUCIUS HECTOR HOYT, of Danbury, in the County of Fairfield, in the State
of Connecticut, one of the United States of America, Manufacturer, do hereby
declare the nature of this invention for IMPROVEMENTS IN APPARATUS FOR
SHAPING HAT BRIMS," and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
The object of the invention is to provide an apparatus by means of which the
brims of hats of various sizes may be conveniently and rapidly shaped. One
apparatus may serve for giving any ordinary or required shapes to hat brims of
various widths.
The shaping surfaces are composed of a number of thin pieces, overlapping one
upon another, and adjustable to adapt the same to differences in length and breadth,
and also to change the scope or downward bend of the brim; and I provide means
for conveniently increasing or diminishing the space for the body of the hat not
only lengthwise, but also transversely. The parts which shape the front and back
are each split and connected together hinge-wise. The means for changing the
scope-by which is meant the droop-of the brim at the front and back, effect this
end without changing the space for the hat body.
I use the term "shaping" in the ordinary acceptation as employed by hat
manufacturers; that is to say, giving to the hat brim the desired "scope" and roll;
in other words, giving the proper inclination in front and back and at the sides,
exclusive of the curling or turning over the rim of the hat brim toward the hat
body, which is preferably done previously to the shaping.
Sand-bags have been employed to exert by the gravity of their yielding contents,
a uniform pressure over the whole or a large portion of hat brims. Such bags
(technically "sand-pans") are usually operated by hand. I have devised means
for operating such a bag by a treadle, allowing the hands to be otherwise engaged.
The following is a description of what I consider the best means of carrying out
the invention. The accompanying drawings form a part of this specification.
Fig. 1 is an elevation showing the entire machine.
Fig. 2 is an elevation of a portion at right angles thereto. It is a view from the
right hand side of Fig. 1. In these views the sand-pan is elevated and turned out
of use.
Th
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page_text: The
Fig. 3 is a central longitudinal section. This figure shows the metallic shaping
parts and a thin rubber covering which performs an important function.
rubber is indicated by dotted lines on the right hand side in Fig. 3.
Fig. 4 is a central cross-section.
Fig. 4 is a portion of the same on a larger scale.
Fig. 5 is a central transverse section through the sand-pan and the adjacent
parts in the act of shaping a hat brim. In this view the rubber covering is in
place, but the means for holding it are not fully shown.
Fig. 6 is a plan view, and
Fig. 7 is a side elevation showing the metallic parts under the rubber, against
which the hat brim is forced by the yielding pressure of the sand-pan.
Fig. 8 is a side view showing one of the removable side supports which apply
when desired under the rolled edge of the hat brim, one on each side of the hat.
Fig. 9 is a cross-section showing the same and some of the adjacent parts.
The remaining figures are on a still larger scale.
Fig. 10 is an interior face view showing two modes of attaching the fasteners
which secure the rubber.
Similar letters of reference indicate corresponding parts in all the figures where
they occur.
A is the fixed frame-work of cast-iron or other suitable material, made in as
many pieces as may be required, and bolted firmly together. Certain portions will
be designated when necessary by additional marks, as A¹, A'. There are parallel
ways A¹ on which are supported two slides B, B, which respectively carry the
mechanism for shaping the fronts and backs of the brims. These are moved
backward and forward at will by a gear wheel C¹ fixed on the shaft C, and
engaging with racks b, b, one mounted lower than the other, with the wheel C¹
standing between them. A top slide B at each end formed with a curved base is
supported on corresponding curved ways, and carries the mechanism which supports
and shapes the brim at that end, each being operated by a rocking nut E, which is
provided with trunnions mounted in a downwardly projecting fork D¹ from the
slide D, and which engages a screw G, provided with a pin g. The two screws G, g,
are engaged together by a tube H, having a slot h, so that turning one turns both,
and through the nuts E and forks D¹ changes the positions of the slides D equally
at each end to increase or diminish the scope. Each top slide D supports by an
inner post D and an exterior bracket D³ and their connections the adjustable
parts I, J, which respectively shape the inner and outer portions of the brim at the
front and back.
The inner parts I and the outer parts J are each divided longitudinally. They
are formed of strong and elastic material, as hard brass or steel, and can thereby
accommodate themselves a little to each other and to the other parts.
The sides of the brim are shaped mainly by thin side shaping pieces K, which
extend along, each in two parts lapping one upon the other, and attached respec-
tively to the front and rear pieces I. They are kept out to their proper places by
what I will term lining pieces R¹, which are parts of the side pieces R, and are
thus held in place independently of the front and rear shaping parts I against
which they apply smoothly. The two parts of K on each side increase or diminish
their lap one upon the other as the machine is elongated or contracted.
Each is formed with a deep lip K¹ at its inner edge, which engages in a corre-
sponding deep and narrow recess or pocket between the main side carriage R, and
the lining piece R¹, (see Figs. 4 and 4). These parts and the others to be
described on the two sides are counterparts each of the other, and a description of
one will suffice for both.
The main side supports R move only in a right line apart and together. Each
is supported and guided on a portion A² of the fixed framework.
Each is provided with a pin r, which, with an anti-friction roller carried thereon,,
is received in an inclined or spiral groove c in a cam C³, which latter is keyed or
otherwise firmly set on the transverse shaft C. The gear-wheels C² fixed on the

page_text: shaft C serve as means by which the required partially rotating motion is imparted
to it through a hand lever C5, turning on a fixed stud A³, and carrying a gear-
wheel or partial gear-wheel C4 (See Fig. 1). Turning the lever C gives a
corresponding but smaller angular motion to the shaft C. This, by the gear
wheel C and racks b, moves longitudinally the end slides B, and increases or
diminishes the length of the space for the hat. The same movement by means of
the cams C³ and their spiral grooves c moves the main side carriage R simul-
taneously apart or together.
Each main side carriage R is traversed by a shaft P, on which is fixed a small
collar P¹, and also a large and thick collar, which I will term a cylinder P², having
an inclined spiral groove p. The shaft P on one side, the left side in Fig. 4, is
equipped with a lever P³ and engaging dog Pt (see Figs. 1 and 4), by which it
may be turned and secured at will, the dog P4 being engaged in any one of the
notches in the fixed segment A*. The two shafts P turn together while free to
increase and diminish their distance axially each from the other, being connected
by a longitudinal slotted tube O, with which they engage through pins pl.
S are slides fitted in the main side pieces R and carrying pins S', which engage
in the spiral grooves p. The inner end of each slide S engages with the lower end
of a lever M¹, which turns on a centre m, carried in the corresponding side
carriage R. The upper end of M' carries a shaping piece M, which has the
requisite form to shape the inside of the roll or curl of the brim.
Under the brim on each side is a removable side support N, pivoted on the
side carriage R, and exerting a gentle but sufficient upward pressure through
springs N encircling the rods N2 which are fast to the upper portion N³, and
play through the lower portion N. Each rod N is fitted with a cross-pin N³ at
its lower end, which restrains the action when the support is thrown out of use by
being turned into the position shown in dotted lines in Fig. 9. The upper and
effective portion N³ of each side support is formed with elastic arms N° provided
with adjusting screws N', which allow the upward force to be graduated along a
considerable portion of the brim. Whenever the operator wishes to avail himself
of this side support, he depresses the bar N³ with its attached springs N° against
the force of the spiral springs N¹, and swings the entire device up into the position
shown in strong lines in Fig. 9, where it remains and exerts a gentle but firm
pressure against the adjacent portion of the brim, holding it firmly against the
part M.
:
I prefer to make those edges of the shaping surfaces which, when the apparatus
is fully or partly extended, apply upon other shaping-surfaces, chamfered or
beveled off, so as to leave the general shaping-surface as smooth as possible.
I use language throughout this specification implying that the shaping of the
brim is effected by the metallic parts I. J, at the front and back, and by the
metallic parts K, M, and N³, N7, at the sides. This is literally true in a certain
sense, but I cover all these shaping surfaces except the removable side supports last
described, with a thin envelope of vulcanized rubber, which will now be described.
T is a sheet of rubber in the form of a broad belt, of a little greater diameter
than the interior of the hat. Its elastic nature allows its form to be changed
within wide limits. U are eyelets of brass or other suitable material set at moderate
distances apart along each of its edges. The rubber in the immediate vicinity of
each eyelet is reinforced by a thin piece of fabric. This rubber is applied so as to
form a smooth continuous surface over the entire working faces of the shaping
pieces I, J, K, M. It prevents the hat brim from being marked or deformed by
the joints between the several shaping pieces.
I have devised peculiar means for attaching such rubber.
I employ paper fasteners or small pieces of tough and sufficiently flexible metal
correspondingly formed. Such are indicated by V in Figs. 10, 11 and 12. They
hold the inner edge of the rubber to the lining metal R¹ and the outer edge of the
rubber to the shaping piece M. Where the metal is thin the paper fastener V is
inserted through, as shown in Fig. 12. This mode of attachment is adopted in

page_text: attaching the inner edge of the rubber to the lining metal R¹ along the sides, and
to the parts I at the front and back. The mode of fastening shown in Fig. 11 is
by soldering or brazing the paper fasteners to the face of the metal, the soldering
metal being indicated by v. This mode of joining is employed to connect the
outer edge of the rubber to the under face of the part M. It may also be
employed in any of the other situations where it shall be found preferable.
However the paper fastener V is secured to the metal, its mode of engaging with
the rubber is the same; the points of the paper-fastener are received through a
corresponding eyelet, and engaged by spreading the points of the paper-fastener
apart.
My experiments indicate that good rubber will endure a long period of active
service on this machine. Whenever the rubber fails the fasteners may have their
points again strengthened and the rubber taken off, and a new one applied and
correspondingly secured. When the fasteners break they can be easily replaced.
As is a vertical bar of steel or iron, carrying on its upper end at one side a rigid
extension, A6, which carries an inwardly projecting pin, A7, provided with an anti-
friction roller. The whole or a considerable portion of As is hollow, and receives
the lower end of a smaller bar A8, of steel or iron, which extends up to a sufficient
height above the machine and carries a rigidly connected arm, Aº, carrying on a
suitable pin A0, a sheave A". A sleeve F fits easily on the rod A³, and is capable
of rising and sinking thereon. The inner face of this sleeve carries one or more
pins f, which engage in a straight longitudinal groove or spline in the rod AB.
A groove f, extending longitudinally and somewhat spirally on the exterior of this
sleeve F, receives the pin A'. As the treadle Y is operated and the sand-pan
raised and lowered, the pin A7 stands in the groove f, and compels a partial
turning motion of the sleeve F and its attachments. These parts are proportioned
as shown, so that the sleeve and its connected sand-pan perform about a quarter
revolution each time it is elevated or depressed. This leaves the space over the
hat entirely clear each time the sand-pan is elevated.
On liberating the treadle Y', which should be done by an easy movement, the
sand-pan and its connections sink by gravity, and at the same time are caused to
turn to the proper extent around the axis of the bar As, bringing it in the exactly
right position over the hat. The upper portion of the groove f is straight. This
insures that the sand-pan shall in the last portion of its descending motion descend
truly and act equally on all parts of the briin.
W is the sand-pan, certain portions being designated when necessary by
additional marks, as W¹, W. Bent frames W', W2, of sheet metal or other
suitable material, are loosely connected by rivets wat the front and back
respectively. To the lower edge of both Wi and W' is attached a flexible fabric
which I will term a bag W³, in which is placed a peck or other sufficient quantity
of sand W. The entire sand-pan is hung by hinged eyes w¹ to a round transverse
rod X which is supported by a bail X. A chain Y attached to the bail, runs over
the pulley A", and connects to a treadle Y' which, being operated by the foot of
the attendant, raises and lowers the bail X and the connected sand-pan at will.
To operate the invention, the parts being previously brought to the proper
temperature by any ordinary or suitable means, and the sand-pan being in the
position shown in Fig. 1, the hat is introduced, having the roll or curl at each side
of the brim previously initiated by other treatment, and the edges are caused to
engage under the proper portions of the side shaping pieces M.
Next the lever C³ is operated to induce a partial revolution of the shaft C, which
moves the slides B and end pieces J and their connections I together to press firmly
against the front and back of the hat body. The same movement by the cams C³
and their grooves c moves the main side pieces R inward to correspondingly press
the lining pieces R¹ or other suitable surface, against the sides of the body. Next
the shafts P are turned by turning the lever P³ into the upright position. This
movement, by the action of the cams C³ and their connections, turns each lever M³,
carrying its upper end outward into firm engagement within the curl of the brim..

page_text: Next the operator liberates the treadle Y¹ which he has been préviously holding
down by the continued pressure of his foot, or by a suitable dog or catch, as will
be understood, and the sand-pan, descending by its gravity, turns in the first part
of its descent until it is directly over the hat, and then descends squarely without
any turning movement, and presses fairly on the whole exposed surface of the hat
brim. In coming to rest the front and rear are first stopped, the sides continue to
sink further, the parts W¹ and W2 turn considerably on their loose connecting
rivets w, and cause the bag W³ to firmly and fairly press on the brim, not only over
the whole surface which is presented upwards, but also on that portion which is
presented outward, with a tendency to act a little under the curl, as shown some-
what exaggerated in Fig. 5. If the side supports N are required they are brought
up into the required position, and caused to press upward against the curl of the
brim on each side before the sand-pan is lowered.
After waiting a brief period, depending on the style and character of the hat and
the nature of the material, and somewhat on its condition with regard to thickness
and temperature, the shaping will be sufficiently effected.
Now the entire series of operations is reversed. The attendant depresses the
treadle Y¹ and raises and turns aside the sand-pan. Next he turns the shaft P by
operating the lever P³, giving it a quarter revolution more or less, so that by the
action of the spiral grooves p on the pins S¹ he turns the lever M¹, moving the
upper ends of said levers inward as far as they can go, or. so as to greatly relax
the hold of these parts within the curl or roll at each side of the brim. Next, by
raising the lever C he turns the shaft C, and by the racks b moves apart the
slides B, and consequently the front and rear pieces I and their immediately
adjacent parts. The same partial rotation of the shaft C acts through the cams C³
and their grooves c on the main side pieces R, moving them also apart. If the side
supports N are in use these must be depressed and disengaged, leaving them in the
position shown in dotted lines in Figs. 5 and 9.
Now the hat, having its brim completely shaped, is lifted out and a fresh hat
introduced.
Modifications may be made in the forms and proportions without departing from
the principle or sacrificing the advantages of the invention. Parts may be used
without the whole. I can dispense with the rubber covering T, the metal portions
being shaped with sufficient care to impart just. the proper form and avoid any
objectionable marks at the several lines of junction. The notched segment A* and
its connections may be omitted, and the shaft P may be turned, and the place of
stopping at each movement determined by other means. I can dispense with the
side supports N.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is
1. In a bat-brim shaping apparatus, in combination with the means C, C¹, B, b,
for enlarging the bat space longitudinally, the cams C³, c, engaging with the side
carriage R for enlarging the same laterally by the same motion, as herein specified.
2. In a hat-brim shaping apparatus, the side carriages R, R, and side shaping
pieces M movable thereon, in combination with the cross shaft P, and suitable
connections for operating both simultaneously, as herein specified.
3. In a hat-brim shaping apparatus, the combination of the shaping parts I, J,
K, M, lever P³, dog P' and notched segment A' arranged as shown, and adapted to
aid in determining the points to which the pieces M shall be expanded at each
operation, as herein specified.
4. In a hat-brim shaping apparatus, the side shaping parts K, K¹, each in two
parts lapping one upon the other, engaged respectively with the shaping parts,
as I, I, at the front and back, in combination therewith, and with the side
carriages R, R, and suitable means for moving them, as herein specified.

page_text: 5. In a hat-brim shaping apparatus; in combination with thin movable parts,
as I, J, K, and a yielding continuous covering T of rubber or analogous material,
the folding fastenings V, arranged to serve as herein specified.
6. The folding sand-pan described, having the frames W1, W2, loose connections w,
flexible bottom Ws and sand W, adapted to serve with suitable hat-shaping parts,
as I, J, K, M, as herein specified.
7. In a hat-brim shaping apparatus, the combination with suitable shaping parts,
as I, J, K, M, and a sand-pan W, treadle Y, chains or flexible connection Y,
pulley A, turning arm A, and guiding means as A', F, f, arranged for joint
-operation as herein specified.
8. In a hat-brim shaping apparatus, the removable side support N, having springs
arranged to act on the curl of the brim, in combination with the side shaping
piece M, as herein specified.