Improvements in the Manufacture of Figured Pile Fabrics.
Year: 1897

page_text: Date of Application, 16th Feb., 1897
Complete Specification Left, 16th Nov., 1897-Accepted, 29th Jan., 1898
Improvements in the Manufacture of Figured Pile Fabrics.
I, JAMES MORTON, of the Firm of Alexander Morton and Company, Manu-
facturers, Darvel, Ayrshire, do herby declare the nature of this Invention to be
as follows:-
66
This Invention relates to the manufacture of pile fabrics of the class known as
plushette," and it has for its object the production of such fabrics with figured
patterns produced in the weaving operation instead of as in figured plush and
velvets by stamping or pressing.
The figured "plushette" is produced in an ordinary jacquard loom. Any class
of material may be used to produce the desired effect, but the warps and wefts
are so manipulated that the part which is to form pile is raised, while the part
which is not to form pile is tied firmly down. For example cotton and woollen
or other wefts may be used with two (or more) sets of cotton or other warps pre-
ferably one light and one heavy, the warps being so manipulated or raised and
lowered in throwing the weft shots that the woollen weft is held or bound on the
surface by the light warp whilst the cotton weft forms the ground or figure with
the heavier warp and prevents the wool rising or lowers it to the back of the
fabric where the pile is not to be formed on the face.
The fabric is then submitted to a fulling or finishing process whereby the raised
part of the pattern becomes more embossed and it is combed by teasles or other
mechanism till it becomes a pile. It may then be cropped in the usual way.
The warps may be so manipulated that a raised or embossed and consequently
a pile part is produced on each side.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Figured Pile Fabrics.
I, JAMES MORTON, of the Firm of Alexander Morton and Company, Manu-
facturers, Darvel, Ayrshire, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and
in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement:
66
This Invention relates to the manufacture of pile fabrics of the class known as
plushette," and it has for its object the production of such fabrics with figured

page_text: patterns produced in the weaving operation instead of as in figured plush and
velvets by stamping or pressing.
The figured "plushette" is produced in an ordinary jacquard loom. Any class
of material may be used to produce the desired effect, but the warps
and wefts are so manipulated by jacquard or other similar selecting
mechanism that the part which is to form pile is raised, while the part
which is not to form pile is tied firmly down. For example cotton and woollen
or other wefts may be used with two (or more) sets of cotton or other warps pre-
ferably one light and one heavy, the warps being so manipulated or raised and
lowered by the jacquard in throwing the weft shots that the woollen weft is held
or bound on the surface by the light warp while the cotton weft forms the ground
or figure with the heavier warp and prevents the wool rising or lowers it to the
back of the fabric where the pile is not to be formed on the face.
The fabric is then submitted to a fulling or finishing process whereby the raised
part of the pattern becomes more embossed and it is combed by teasles or other
mechanism till it becomes a pile. It may then be cropped in the usual way.
The warps may be so manipulated that a raised or embossed and consequently a
pile part or pattern is produced on each side.
The Invention is illustrated by way of example in the accompanying diagram
which is a section of a pile fabric wherein the ground or plain portion of the fabric
is produced by cotton warp A and weft B, and the pile by woollen weft C. The
latter is bound by light warps 1) which are so raised or lowered by the jacquard
as to bring the woollen wefts to the surface, and the woollen wefts are subse-
quently combed in the lines of the warp in order to form pile without destroying
the warp threads.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is
1. The manufacture of pile fabrics having jacquard figured patterns produced
thereon in the weaving operation substantially in the manner hereinbefore
described.
2. The manufacture of pile fabrics having jacquard figured patterns produced
on one or both sides by so manipulating the warps and wefts as to raise the
parts where the pile is to be formed and to tie down the parts where pile is not
to be formed, and subsequently combing or teasling the raised parts substantially
as described.