IMPROVEMENTS IN PLEATING OR KILTING LOOMS FOR PLEATING OR KILTING FABRICS
Year: 1884

page_text: I JOHN FRANCIS RIDD MORRIS of 40 and 41 Kirby Street Hatton Garden in
the County of Middlesex Costume Manufacturer do hereby declare the nature of
my Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN PLEATING OR KILTING LOOMS FOR
PLEATING OR KILTING FABRICS" to be as follows:-
This Invention relates to improvements in that class of pleating plaiting or
kilting machine known as a pleating loom for pleating or kilting fabrics by
inserting or laying a blade or thin bar of metal or other material between each
fold of a piece of fabric as it is drawn from a roller or other supply and folded to
and fro with a blade or bar laid between each fold of the fabric the ends of the
blades or bars being retained in grooved bars near the edges or selvages of the
fabric.
When the grooved bars are filled the folded fabric with the blades or bars in
each fold they are secured in position by another bar with clamping screws to
compress the bars and folded fabric tightly within the rectangular frame formed
by the grooved and clamping bars and are subjected to moisture and heat to: effect
the creasing of the folded fabric.
Now I have found by retaining each blade or bar in every fold that the creasing
where the fabric is folded is imperfect and that the creased parts readily become
unfolded and thus destroy the proper effect of the pleating or kilting.
According to my improvements. by making every alternate blade or bar shorter
than the other alternate blades or bars and withdrawing the short blades or. bars
in succession, after 8. or other suitable number of folds (more or less) have been
made the ultimate creasing of the fabric is more effectually accomplished by having
only half the number of bars (or one to every other fold) in the. folded fabric
whilst the final operation of creasing is effected.
The short blades or bars are made with a loop or other suitable contrivance so
that they can be readily withdrawn in succession as required.
By my improvements nearly half of the usual number of blades or bars are
dispensed with.
מ
لوم
1

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION..
50
I, JOHN FRANCIS RIDD MORRIS of 40 and 41 Kirby Street Hatton Garden in the
County of Middlesex Costume Manufacturer do hereby declare the nature of my
Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN PLEATING OR KILTING LOOMS FOR PLEATING
OR KILTING FABRICS," and in what manner the same is to be performed to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement:
This Invention relates to improvements in that class of pleating or kilting
machine known as a pleating loom for pleating, or kilting fabrics by inserting or
laying a blade or thin bar of metal or other material between each fold of a
piece of fabric as it is drawn from a roller or other supply and folded to and fro
with a blade or bar laid between each fold of the fabric the ends of the blades or
bars being retained in grooved bars or on rods near the edges or selvages of the
fabric.
When the grooved bars are filled the folded fabric with the blades or bars in
each fold they are secured in position by another bar with clamping screws to
compress the bars and folded fabric tightly within the rectangular frame formed
by the grooved and clamping bars and are subjected to moisture and heat to effect
the creasing of the folded fabric.
Now I have found by retaining each blade or bar in every fold that the creasing
where the fabric is folded is imperfect and that the creased parts readily because
unfolded and thus destroy the proper effect of the pleating or kilting.
According to my improvements by making every alternate blade or bar shorter.
than the other alternate blades or bars and withdrawing the short blades or bars
in succession after 8 or other suitable number of folds (more or less) have been
made the ultimate creasing of the fabric is more effectually accomplished by having
only half the number of bars (or one to every other fold) in the folded fabric
whilst the final operation of creasing is effected.
The short blades or bars are made with a loop or other suitable contrivance so
that they can be readily withdrawn in succession as required.
By my improvements half of the usual number of blades or bars are dispensed
with.
In order that my Invention may be more clearly understood and readily carried
into practice I will proceed to describe the Drawing hereunto annexed.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWING.
Figure 1 is a front elevation and Figure 2 a vertical section of a pleating or
kilting loom of ordinary construction and in general use for pleating or kilting
fabrics by inserting or laying a thin bar of metal between each fold of the fabric.
In each Figure a is a table or platform supporting two standards a' a¹ which at
their upper ends carry a roller b on which the fabric to be pleated or kilted is
wound at one end of the roller b there is a pulley b¹ around which an endless
cord 6x is led, which passes around another pulley 62 carried by a screw stem on
which there is a butterfly nut 63 by which means the endless cord b× can be
tightened and so put friction on the roller to prevent the material running off too
freely.
The table a also supports the frame c the two uprights of which are of a trough
like section and in the base of the trough holes are formed. This frame is secured to
the standards, a¹ by pegs.c¹ inserted through one of the holes in the frame and
through corresponding holes in the standards. By these means the frame is held
in position to commence work.
The material to be pleated.or kilted is led from the roller b and its end laid on
to the bar d which is supported by a screw e a thin bar or blade d¹ (shown
separately by Figures 4 and 5) is placed over the material from one side of the
loom and its ends sprung under the spring stops c³ c² carried by the uprights of

page_text: the frame c then a shorter blade dx is placed over the fabric from the opposite
side of the loom and so the fabric is led in pleats between the blades in the manner
shown by dotted lines in Figure 3 every alternate blade d* being a short one and
capable of being removed from the work as it progresses. In practice it is
generally found that the eighth short bar or blade d is a convenient one to
remove depending upon the nature or character of the fabric to be pleated or kilted.
In Figures 4 and 5 I have shown the ends of a long and a short bar the shorter
one having loops de formed on it in order that it may be easily removed from the
work. The ends of the bars may be so formed as to embrace the uprights c or the
ends of the long bars may be formed with a hole or slot and be slid on to the
bars c.
The shorter alternate bars must always be so formed as to be readily removed
from the alternate folds.
After the length of material has been pleated or kilted the frame c(together
with the pleated or kilted material) is removed from between the standards a bar
such as having been previously placed on the top of the column of work-its
ends being guided by the trough shaped uprights of the frame c another bar g
(shown in plan by Figure 6) carrying screw g¹ g¹ is then slid on to the
uprights of the frame c and secured thereto by pegs h h in the manner shewn in
Figure 7-the bar f is then forced down by the screws g¹ g¹ on to the top of the
column of work and so the whole is secured in position to be subjected to moisture
and heat in the usual manner to effect the permanent pleating of the folded fabric.
By using alternately long and short bars and removing the short bars as the
work progresses much better work is produced and the material retains the pleats
more perfectly than heretofore.
I would remark that other forms may be given to the ends of the shorter bars
for example the ends may be formed as bolts to be pushed forward and drawn
back or they may be hinged to the main portion of the bar-but I find it
advantageous to form the shorter bars as shown and described.
•
By reason of my improvements half the number of blades or bars d are
dispensed with.
Having thus described the nature of my Invention and the manner of performing
or carrying the same into practice I would remark that I make no claim to any of
the mechanical parts separately which are well known and in common use neither
do I claim the method of pleating or kilting fabrics by the insertion of blades
or bars between the folds and subjecting the same to pressure and heat but what
I claim is
First. The improved arrangement of pleating or kilting looms for pleating or
kilting fabrics by removing every alternate blade or bar as the folding of the
fabric progresses and subjecting the folded fabric to pressure and heat with a blade
or bar in every alternate fold or with only half the number heretofore employed
for this purpose whereby the pleating or kilting of the fabric is more perfectly and
effectually accomplished than heretofore substantially in the manner hereinbefore
described and represented in the Drawings hereto annexed.
.
Second. I claim the forming of the alternate blades or bars with a loop or
other suitable contrivance by which each alternate blade or bar can be readily
removed from the folded fabric substantially as and for the purpose herein before
described.