Apparatus for Marking Out Patterns for Dress Cutting or the like Purposes.
Year: 1895

page_text: Date of Application, 24th July, 1895-Accepted, 18th Jan., 1896
Apparatus for Marking Out Patterns for Dress Cutting or the like
Purposes.
I, FELIX CRAKAUER of 5, Elisabethenstrasse, Wiesbaden, in the Empire of
Germany, Merchant, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained in
and by the following statement :-
This invention relates to an apparatus for use in the art of cutting out dresses or
the like.
Hitherto in the making of new garments it has been necessary to first draw or
design the patterns for cutting out and then to cut out the same.
This was firstly a very tedious operation and secondly so complicated or difficult
that unskilful cutters-out could very often not effect a satisfactory result.
Now an apparatus according to the present invention supplies automatically the
contours of the pattern for cutting out so soon as the various principal measurements
of the garment have been set off on the scales provided according to this invention
for the purpose.
The entire apparatus is arranged in a box that is capable of being closed and the
pattern for cutting-out is. produced by placing a sheet of paper or other suitable
material upon the adjusted automatic apparatus and then closing down the lid
whereupon the contours of the pattern are found indicated by holes pricked or thus
formed in the paper or material somewhat after the manner of the instruments
commonly used by hatters for taking the shape and measurement of the head.
The accompanying drawings illustrate an apparatus for marking patterns for the
cutting out of ladies' dress bodies.
A combination of flexible steel bands a arranged vertically (i.e. on the edge) and
provided on their upper edge with teeth or serrations are held together by means
of wires b and lazy tongs i at suitable distances from one another corresponding to
the various measurements of a dress body. The entire adjustable part of the
apparatus is arranged around a fixed point c of the pattern-marking box d and the
apparatus is adjusted or set by means of the wires b which are provided at their
free ends with hooks e. These hooks are adapted to engage in and hold fast in
holes in the scales g and be readily removed therefrom and replaced in other such
holes as desired.
In places where it is not feasible to employ collapsible or flexible steel bands
there are employed in place of the latter lazy-tongs k which are provided with
upwardly projecting sharp points at their crossing joints.
are wood blocks to which the flexible bands are fixed and which serve to keep
the respective flexible bands a in their proper position.
The operation is as follows;-
For instance if it is desired to set out the width measurement of the back of a
dress body and said width measurement is say 36 centimetres measured from
armhole to armhole then the hook on the wire for this purpose is inserted into
the hole marked with the number "18" of the "back width "scale because only
half the width measurement of the back is required for making the pattern for
cutting out.
The other measurements are set out in an analogous manner-the scales being
arked for the purpose according to the measurement which they are intended to
dicate.

page_text: Simultaneously with the setting out of the measurements for the dress body the
pattern for cutting out to a loose or semi-loose fit a jacket for use over the said
body (or the pattern for cutting out a mantle for same person) may be obtained by
means of additional suitably arranged steel bands fixed to the steel bands already
described.
It is obvious when the apparatus is once adjusted that any desired number of
patterns for cutting out may be obtained therefrom.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is ;-
1. An apparatus for setting out or marking material ready for cutting out
consisting of the combination of strips of metal or other material arranged
vertically (ie. on edge) in a box and formed with sharp points or serrations on
their upper edge acting in conjunction with lazy-tongs and pull-rods or wires and
adapted to be adjusted as to length and width in such a manner as to form the
desired pattern for cutting out said pattern becoming impressed marked or
reproduced upon paper laid between the lid of the box and the cutting-out
apparatus when the lid of the box is closed down thereon substantially as and for
the purposes herein before described.
2. Apparatus constructed combined and arranged to act substantially in the
manner and for the purposes hereinbefore described and illustrated in the drawings
hereunto annexed.
Dated this 24th day of July 1895.
TONGUE & BIRKBECK,
Southampton Buildings, Chancery Lane, London, W.C.,
Agents for the Applicant.