Textile Fabrics.
Year: 1887

page_text: Date of Application, 27th June, 1887
Complete Left, 27th Mar., 1888
Complete Accepted, 27th Apr., 1888
Textile Fabrics.
I, PATRICK MILLAR MATTHEW Jr. of The Victoria Rubber Company Leith Walk,
Edinburgh, in the County of Midlothian, India Rubber Manufacturer do hereby
declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
These improvements as hereinafter described, have reference to that class of textile
fabrics, which are rendered waterproof by a coating of pure or semi-transparent India
Rubber, or India Rubber compound, and which are generally known in the trade as
transparent" or "invisible "proofed clothis.
"
A great variety of cotton, woolen, and silk fabrics, proofed in this manner are at
present used in the manufacture of waterproof garments and such like articles, the
India Rubber coated side of the cloth forming the inside of the garment.
The object of my invention is to improve the appearance of such garments or other
articles by producing on that side of the fabric, on which the transparent India
Rubber coating is applied, a pattern in pleasing contrast with the other side, so that
when the said coating of India Rubber is applied over it, the result will be the
appearance of a double texture fabric-i.e. two fabrics united by a waterproof coating
of India Rubber-combined with the lightness & pliability of a single texture. In
this way Tweeds and other fabrics may be so treated, that when made up into
garments, the inside will present the same appearance as the lining in a double
texture garment.
I may produce the effect either in the process of weaving the fabric, or by printing
on it the required fancy or other design after it is woven. In the former case the
weaving must be so arranged, that yarns of suitable colors shall be worked out in the
required design on that side of the fabric which is intended to form the inside of
the garment or other article. In the second case the designs may be produced by
such means as those employed in the well known process of calico-printing. In both
cases the fabrics are then rendered waterproof by the transparent coating of India
Rubber before referred to.
What I claim as my invention is the production by either of the methods herein-
before described of single texture waterproof fabrics, having on one side of them a
pattern or design, corresponding to and having the appearance of the inside or lining
of the well known double texture fabrics.
1007

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of India Rubber Waterproof
Textile Fabrics.
I, PATRICK MILLAR MATTHEW Jr. of The Victoria Rubber Company, Victoria
Mills, Leith Walk, in the city of Edinburgh, and county of Midlothian, India Rubber
Manufacturer do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement :-
These improvements as hereinafter described, have reference to that class of textile
fabrics, which are rendered waterproof by a coating of pure or semi-transparent India
Rubber or India Rubber compound, and which arc generally known in the trade as
transparent" or "invisible" proofed cloths.
A great variety of fabrics composed of cotton, wool or silk, or any combination of
these materials are at present used in the manufacture of garments and other water-
proof articles, the India Rubber coated side of the cloth owing to its plain and
somewhat disfigured appearance, being used as the inside of the garment.
The object of my invention is to improve the appearance of such garments or other
articles, by producing on that side of the fabrics which is to be coated with transparent
India Rubber or India Rubber compound diverse colored patterns or designs in
contrast with the other side, so that when the said transparent coating has been
applied, the finished article will have the appearance of a double texture fabric-that
is to say two fabrics of different designs united by a waterproof film of India Rubber-
combined with the lightness and pliability of the ordinary single texture "transparent
or "invisible" proofed cloths. In this way Tweeds and other fabrics may be so
treated, that when made up into garments, the inside will present the same appearance
as the lining in a double texture garment. By employing suitable designs and colors,
the fabrics thus lined, may be made reversible, so that the India Rubber coated
surface of the garments may be worn outside if desired.
"
I may produce this double-sided effect, either during the process of weaving the
fabrics, or by printing on them the required fancy or other designs after they are
woven.
In the former case the weaving must be so arranged, that an extra set of yarns
shall be worked out in the required design on that side of the fabrics on which the
India Rubber coating is to be applied. These yarns must be interwoven at suitable
intervals with the yarns, which form the ground or body of the fabric, in such a
manner that only an insignificant portion of their surface is concealed or thrown up
on the other surface of the fabric. It is only necessary to attach these yarns very
slightly to the body of the fabric, as they are protected and kept in position by the
subsequent coating of India Rubber. By this means, checks, stripes and similar
designs may be worked out according to the requirements of taste or fashion.
In forming striped designs an extra set of yarns may be used in the warp only,
& in order to fasten it to the body of the fabrio, is caught up by the ground or

page_text: body weft at regular intervals, care being taken by the weaver to take down a
particular "leaf" of the ground or body, so that the striping yarns may not shew
through unduly on the other side of the fabric. In forming checked designs, the
warp may be fastened as above, and when the checking weft is thrown across,
particular "heddles" are sunk at regular intervals, so as to catch up and fasten it to
the ground or body of the fabric. The natural shrinkage of the fabric when removed
from the loom, buries or conceals those portions of the checking or striping yarns
which are caught up by the warp and weft of the ground, so that the other side
presents, if required, a practically unbroken surface.
The fabrics thus woven, should be thoroughly hot-pressed in finishing so that the
checking or striping yarns may be to a large extent embedded in the ground of the
fabric, and thus leave a smooth surface for the reception of the India Rubber coating.
Bright colored yarns should be used and the most satisfactory are those which contrast
suitably with the ground, while the brightness of their colors is but slightly affected,
when seen through the superimposed Rubber coating.
In producing the designs by means of printing, I prefer the ordinary machinery
used by calico-printers, but any known means of printing stamping, or stencilling
textile fabrics may be employed. The colors used should be so prepared, that they
will not be removed or injuriously affected, in the event of the fabrics being wet on
that side which is not coated with India Rubber. For this purpose, a sufficient
quantity of India Rubber solution may be mixed with the colors, but any other means
may be adopted which will render the colors fast or insoluble in water. This method
of producing the designs is applicable to such fabrics as are unsuitable from the nature
of their texture, for the reception of a woven pattern, and it may also be employed in
the production of such designs as cannot be woven by the process above described.
The required designs having been produced by either of these methods, the fabrics
are then rendered waterproof by the coating of India Rubber or India Rubber
compound before referred to, & they may be finished and vulcanized by any of the
means known and employed in the manufacture of ordinary "transparent" proofed
single texture fabrics.
Having now fully described and ascertained the nature of my invention, and the
best means known to me of carrying it into effect, I desire it to be understood that
I lay no claim to a process for the production of fabrics, woven so as to produce
differing patterns or designs on either surface, nor to a process whereby any means
of printing in colors may be employed in order to produce a similar effect, I declare
that what I claim as my invention, is
The production by the methods I have described of single texture India Rubber
waterproof fabrics possessing the appearance of the well known double texture water-
proof fabrics to which I have already referred.
Dated this 26th day of March 1888.