IMPROVE- MENTS IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF BOOTS AND SHOES
Year: 1884

page_text: I WILLIAM BARLOW of 11 Mealhouse Lane, Bolton, in the County of Lancaster,
Boot Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of my Invention for "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF BOOTS AND SHOES," to be as follows:-
My invention relates to improvements in the construction of boots and shoes,
rendering the same pliable for the purpose of giving a synchronal action with the
foot, which consists in forming the waists of boots or shoes of materials that are
pliable or flexible, such improvements permitting of the requisite elongation of the
foot which is necessary to give freedom in walking,
"
L
To the fore part or sole of a boot or shoe is attached, by stitching or otherwise,
a pliable or flexible waist or shank piece carried to the back of the heel. Before
the sole is fixed upon the last the pliable or flexible waist is seamed to it, after
which all the rigid parts of the sole and heel are then fastened to the "welts" and
uppers" by stitching or otherwise in the usual manner.
In making a perfectly water-proof or damp-proof boot or shoe, I attach, as
before described, the pliable or flexible shank to a sole of anhydrous or other water
or damp proof leather or other suitable materials.
In another method I construct boots and shoes by lasting the " uppers " over
the insoles and laying on the waterproof or other sole and heel, stitching through
the whole by hand or otherwise in the bottom of the boot or shoe, i.e. through the
entire sole.
The advantages accruing from this invention are that of producing perfectly
pliable or flexible water or damp proof boots and shoes; being lighter, economical,
and more durable than at present constructed, at the same time dispensing with
the annoyance from friction or creaking. Another important feature is that by the
adaptation of the flexible or pliable waist, the heel of a boot or shoe gives to
the motion of the heel of the foot, thereby dispensing with an evil very prevalent
in new boots or shoes.

page_text: I WILLIAM BARLOW of 11 Mealhouse Lane, Bolton in the County of Lancaster,
Boot Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of my Invention for "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF BOOTS AND SHOES," and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement:-
My invention relates to improvements in the construction of boots and shoes
and consists in forming the waists or shanks of materials that are pliable or flexible
for the purpose.of allowing of the requisite elongation of the foot when walking.
In order that my invention may be fully understood and readily carried into
operation, I will now proceed to describe the accompanying drawings reference
being made to the figures and letters marked thereon.
Fig. 1 is an elevation of my improved construction of boots and shoes wherein
the fore-part or sole A from B to C is attached by stitching, as shewn in Fig. 7,
or in any other convenient manner, to the shank piece or waist D before it is fixed
upon the "last." The waist or shank piece D is composed of curried or shoulder
leather and carried to the back of the heel E; being sewn through the waist as
shewn in Fig. 2, after which, the latter and the sole A are fastened to the "welts
and "upper leathers" and finished off in the usual manner.
"
Figs. 8 and 4 shew another modification of my invention wherein the flexible or
pliable waist D is formed of curried leather, or shoulder leather, being "grafted"
to the sole A and heel E by stitching or otherwise; or in the case of what
are known as Cricket Boots and Shoes the waist D is composed entirely of india-
rubber, or of pliable leather as before mentioned, being "grafted" by stitching to
the sole and heel.
In another method I construct boots and shoes by "lasting" the uppers in the
ordinary way and "welt" the same from joint to joint only, that is, round the toe,
as indicated by the dotted line from M to N. The upper in the waist and heel are
"braced" over the insole as shewn in Fig. 6, on which is laid the sole A in Fig. 5,
which extends from toe to heel, of leather cut out of that part of the hide that is
porous or open grained, or what is known as the belly edge, the sole or toe end
being from the portion of the hide inclining from the belly towards the back;
which is stitched through the entire substance of insole, upper, and sole. The
forepart is stitched in the ordinary way. In all cases the pliable or flexible waist D,
of whatever composed, is stitched through as shewn at L in Figs. 2, 4, and 6. In
the cavity formed between the edges of the upper in the waist of boots and shoes
I place sheet india-rubber, or prepared waterproof felt, on which the pliable or
flexible waist is fixed.
In making a perfectly waterproof or damp proof boot or shoe the aforesaid
flexible or pliable waist D is attached as described to a sole of anhydrous or other
water or damp-proof leather or other suitable materials.
This invention can be accomplished and carried out in making what are termed
machine stitched boots and shoes, with the sole and waist jointed and applied as
before described

page_text: Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
Invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I would have it
understood that I am perfectly aware that the uppers and soles of coverings for
the human feet have been constructed of pliable or elastic materials, such as, india-
rubber, or caoutchouc, and of which I do not lay claim thereto, but declare that
what I claim as my Invention is
1. The methods of inserting and adapting a pliable or flexible waist, composed
of india-rubber, curried leather, or other materials or substances herein specified,
in boots and shoes with soles and heels of leather or other analogous substances,
substantially as described and as shewn in the drawings in Figs. 1, 2, 3, and 4.
2. The method of forming the sole and flexible or pliable waist in one piece from
toe to heel, substantially as and for the purpose herein set forth and as shewn in
the drawings in Figs. 5 and 6.