Improvements in or Connected with "Steels" for Stays, Corsets, and other Articles.
Year: 1888

page_text: Improvements in or Connected with "Steels" for Stays, Corsets,
and other Articles.
I REINHOLD THEILER, of Lucerne, Switzerland, Manufacturer do hereby declare
the nature of this invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This Invention has for object improvements in or connected with "steels" for stays,
corsets, and other articles; and relates more particularly to an improved method of
combining elastic or flexible metal bars or strips or springs with sheaths, coverings or
tubes to form elastic or flexible pieces (known as "steels") for insertion into ladies
clothing, corsets &c.
The-improvement consists especially in the method of combining the sheath, covering
or tube with the metal bar or strip, such combination being rendered possible by means
of a slit in the one side of the tube.
Whalebone has heretofore chiefly been used in ladies clothing for the purpose of
causing the garment to follow the shape of the body and also of improving the
figure.
In consequence, however, of the cost of this substance it has been sought to replace
it by other substances in different ways.
With this object there have been employed, metal, horn, rubber, cellulose &c.; such
materials, in the form of narrow slips or bars of any suitable width, thickness, length
and shape, usually perforated at the ends, being placed or inserted into sheaths,
coverings or casings.
The ordinary qualities of such sheaths are woven tubes, smooth or ornamented &c.

page_text: made of various textile materials, or else of bands or ribbons sewed together, or stuck
together, at the side or sides.
For sake of simplicity I shall use the word "tubes" to designate these sheaths,
coverings or casings.
These tubes were then cut to the lengths suited to the bars; each bar was then
inserted into one end of a tube and pushed towards the other end, and then both ends
of the tube were folded over.
These ends thus folded over were then secured by being sewn up or stuck
together.
When sewing was employed, the ends of the bars were provided with suitable
perforations.
Figs. 1 and 2 represent bones or steels of this kind as manufactured heretofore.
They have the serious disadvantage viz., that the bars after a short use penetrate first
through the woven tube, then through the article to which they are attached (in case
of dresses the lining and then the material of the dress), because there is only one
thickness of cloth against or surrounding the end of the "steel" or rod.
The improved stay "bones" or "steels" constructed according to this invention do
not possess this drawback, and this invention inorcover affords a much quicker, cheaper
and more simple construction of the same.
In the annexed sheet of drawings Fig. 1 is an elevation and a longitudinal section
of a tube (as used heretofore) with the bar inserted, therein, the arrangement being
not yet completed.
Fig. 2 shows the same, the arrangement being completed by means of bending or
folding over in the usual manner.
Figs. 3 to 7 relate to the improved "steels."
Fig. 3 shows the metal bar, in front clevation, and longitudinal section.
Fig. the tube in elevation and longitudinal section.
Fig. 5 the tube with the bar inserted therein, in elevation and longitudinal
section.
Figs. 6 and 7 slow the "steels" complete in front elevation, and longitudinal
section.
A "steel" according to this invention is formed by insorting the metal bar A into
the tube B which is provided on one side (preferably the inner side) with slots 6' (and
sometimes also with slots 6). These slots are arranged towards or near the ends of
the tube and are essential features of the invention as they enable two layers of cloth
to be placed against the ends of the bar. The ends of the metal bar are allowed to project
through the slots 6 as shown in Fig. 5.
The form of end shown in Fig. 6, is formed by simply folding over the two fold
ends of the tube. Such ends are shown in Figure 5 situated behind the ends of the
metal bar and projecting up above the same. The end thus folded over can be fixed
in that position by pasting or sticking, or preferably by. sewing.
Fig. 7 shews a modification of the method of folding over, and of the connection at
the ends of the tube, however still based on the principle of keeping two layers of
material of the tube against the ends of the bar. One end of the tube (Fig. 5) besides
being simply folded as in Fig. 5, has its inner side passed over the end of the bar till
this end of the bar projects out through the slot b.
The arrangement is fastened at one end by stitches which are also carried over the
edge of the "steel," and thus serve to strengthen it more.
It will be seen from the preceding description that when the tube is folded over,
both its front and its back side come against or over the end of the bar A, whereas
according to the old method the back side of the tube was not utilized.
"
It will thus be seen that the improved method has a great advantage in that by
using only the same material, the article is made twice as strong, without increase of
cost.
This improvement has also a double value in utilizing the back side of the tube,
especially in the case of "half silk" tubes which could not heretofore be made at a
price moderate enough to allow of them replacing whalebone.

page_text: The strength of these "steels" may be further increased by making the back side
(which is not seen) of extra strong cotton.
Increased strength may also be obtained by placing a layer of paper, leather, horn,
or other suitable material between the end of the spring or bar or "steel" A and the
adjacent part of the tube.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what inanner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
:-
1. A "steel" for stays, corsets, and other garments composed of a flexible metal
bar (A) and a tube (B) arranged and connected substantially in the manner described
and shewn, the arrangement being such that both the front and the back sides of the
tube (B) are applied to the ends of the bar, whereby double strength and durability
are secured.
2. Providing the ends of the tubes for use with "steels," with one or more slots 6',
(or and b), for the purpose of inserting the metal bars and of enabling a double
layer of tube to be applied over the ends of the metal rods substantially as described.
Dated this 31st day of July 1888.
W. LLOYD WISE,
Per F. J. Brougham.