IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING CLOTH AND OTHER MATERIALS
Year: 1852

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Auguste Edouard Loradoux Bellford, of
16, Castle Street, Holborn, Patent Agent, for the Invention of
"IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING CLOTH AND OTHER MATERIALS." A com-
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Auguste Edouard
Loradoux Bellford at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents,
with his Petition, on the 12th October 1852.
I, AUGUSTE EDOUARD LORADOUX BELLFORD, of 16, Castle Street,
Holborn, in the City of London, Patent Agent, do hereby declare the
nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING CLOTH AND
OTHER MATERIALS " to be as follows:-
The first part of this Invention relates to the peculiar formation of
the seam, or to the manner in which the thread is arranged within
or combined with the material in which the seam is made, for the
purpose of holding together the different parts. The seam is formed
by two threads, which are passed through the material alternately, in
regular succession and at regular intervals, from opposite sides, each in
a series of successive loops, of which every loop has its successor

page_text: passed through it; each succeeding loop being formed of the opposite
thread to its predecessor passes through it, and thus prevents its being
drawn back through the material, or, in other words, forms the stitch.
In this way the two threads when drawn tight are so closely interlaced
or locked together as to form a seam of such strength that it will bear
many of its stitches to be cut or broken without endangering the secu-
rity of their neighbors.
The second part of this Invention relates to the means by which the
threads are passed through the material and interlaced together, and
consists of two needles, which are so arranged in relation to each other
and to the material, and so controlled and operated, as to pass the loops
through the cloth and interlace them, the material being at the same
time moved in the desired direction of the seam.
The third part of the Invention relates to the means by which the
material is moved at proper intervals to insert the loops; this consists
simply of a weight, spring, or any device which will give a constant
draught to the material in the required direction of the seam, acting
in combination with the withdrawal of the needles, and with certain
movements given to the needles independent of their movement through
the cloth or material.
The fourth part of the Invention consists in an adjustable throat or
guide, in which the material is held or guided at the part where it is
being sewn, which may be made of variable width to suit the thickness
of the material, and whose position may be altered to give certain
differences of appearance to the seam
The fifth part of the Invention relates to certain means of regulating
the length of the stitch or distance between the insertions of the loops.
Figure 1, in the accompanying Drawing is a plan of a sewing
machine constructed according to these improvements.
Figure 2, is a vertical longitudinal, section of the same, taken nearly
in the centre.
Figure 3, is a back view of the same, having the weight and its
adjuncts for moving the cloth omitted.
Figure 4, is a plan; and,
Figure 5, a vertical view, partly in section, of the means by which

page_text: the movements of the needles are controlled for regulating the length
of stitch.
Figure 6, is an inverted plan, partly in section; &,
Figure 7, is an elevation, partially sectional, of the means by which
the needles receive a portion of their movement..
Figure 8, exhibits in projection the peripheries of the two cams; by
which the movements are given to the needles.
.
Figure 9, exhibits the needles at a certain point in the operation of
making the stitch.
Figure 9, is a section of the needles on a larger scale.
Figure 10, is a face view on an exaggerated scale of the seam made
by this machine.
Figure 11, is
a view, much exaggerated, showing the interlacing of
the two threads, each being shown of a separate color for the sake of
distinctness.
Figure 12, shows a modification of the needles and appendages for
producing a seam shown in Figure 13, and somewhat different in
external appearance to that shown in Figure 10, but having the stitches
formed in the same manner.
Similar letters of reference indicate corresponding parts in each of
the several Figures.
The machine shown in Figures 1, 2, and 3, with the exception of
the bed plate A, driving shaft B, and the cloth moving apparatus, is
divided into two similar portions placed side by side, each portion
carrying one of the two needles, and having similar acting members to
the other; the only difference being that the arrangement of the members
in one is precisely the reverse of that in the other. The framing,
in addition to the bed plate, consists of two tables C, C', supported by
two pillars D, D', at a short distance apart, the space between them
in the centre of the machine being for the passage of the cloth, which
is indicated edgewise by two lines of grey color a, a, in Figures 1, and
3, passing between the throat or guide, which consists of two plates
E, E, placed on the front part of the tables, and having their inner or
approaching ends turned upwards to form the sides of the throat.
The plates E, E', are attached to the tables by. screws, bolts, and

page_text: nuts b, b, and are adjustable at varying distances apart to alter the
width of the throat, and also to bring the throat either precisely in the
centre or a little towards either side of the machine. In each side of
the throat, or in each plate, there is a slot o, to admit of the passage
and free working of the needles. The needles in this machine are
straight, with their eyes near the point passing through from the upper
to the under side, and are secured to the ends of two horizontal bars,
F, F, with which they are in line, one bar being upon each table; the
needle C, is just sufficiently higher than C', for its point to pass over
that of the latter, when they are caused to meet by the longitudinal
motion of the bars F, F. The needles are not in line, but stand at an
angle of about 150° to each other, or at angles of about 15° to a line
taken transversely through the machine; from this position they do not
in any great degree vary during their operation, as their lateral movement
is trifling. The needle bars F, F', receive longitudinal motion by being
attached to two arms G, G', on two vertical shafts H, H', which receive
a vibrating motion through other arms I, I', attached to the same
shafts, and furnished with friction rollers running into grooves sunk in
the peripheries of two cams J, J', in form the reverse of each other on
the shaft B. In addition to the longitudinal motion of the needle arms
a slight vibratory motion is also allowed from the pivots d, d, by which
they are attached to the arms G, G. The amount of the said vibratory
motion being regulated by two stops E, f, (see Figures 1, 3, 4, and 5,)
applied on opposite sides of each bar. Each stop e, which is behind its
respective needle bar is stationary, and passing through the table, in
which it turns freely, forms a pivot on which the small block of metal g,
can be turned by a lever h. To cach block g, is attached the opposite
or moveable stop f, and by moving the lever h, this stop can be brought
nearer to or farther from the centre of the machine, a greater lateral
movement of the needle bar being allowed by the former and a lesser
lateral movement by the latter position of the stop. Secured to the under
side of each lever h, is a point i, and upon the tables are indices j, to
any degree in which the points i, can be brought, the said indices being
graduated so that the lateral movement of the needle bars can be
regulated with accuracy. Each lever h, must be brought to a

page_text: corresponding point in the respective index in order to allow a corre-
sponding amount of lateral movement to each needle (the needles and
needle bars being of uniform length). To cach pivot e, is attached a plate
K, which covers the needle bar, and with the block g, forins a guide to
keep the said bar from rising or falling; and to the lower end of the
pivot which protrudes through the bottom of the table is attached a
lever 1, for the purpose of closing the top plate k, over the needle bar,
or removing it therefrom to allow the bar to be taken out. Figure 1,
shows the plate on the former, and Figure 4, in the latter position. The
pivots d, d, to which the needle bars are connected, are each secured
firmly to a spring box K, and turn freely in the ends of the arms G, G¹;
the needle bars are also secured by catch pins m, (see Figures 6,
& 7,) to the spring boxes; and the springs n, within the boxes are
attached to the boxes and the ends of the arms G, G, in such a manner
as to throw the needle bars forward against the stops f. f.
The threads are supplied to the needles from the spools L, L', one on
each table, and pass from the spools through guides p, p, on the back
ends of the needle bars, from thence through eyes in the sockets q, q, by
which the needles are connected to the bars, and from thence pass close
to the needle and through its eye. The thread v, from the spools L, is
shewn in the Drawing of a black color, and that p¹, from the spool
I, is shown of a red color for the sake of distinction; the black thread
comes out from the eye in the socket 9, above the needle C, passing
downwards through its eye; the red thread comes from the eye in
socket I, under the needle, and passes upwards through its eye. The
spools L, L', are placed upon pivots S, S, and a proper amount of
friction to produce a suitable draught on the threads is given by springs
t, t, under and nuts u, u, above them.
The cloth is connected by a hook M, to a cord N, passing over a
pulley O, at the back of the machine, and having a weight P, suspended
which tends to draw it backwards. The pulley O, is hung in a standard
Q, which should be adjustable at any distance behind the machine for
long or short seams.
Motion is communicated to the driving shaft B, through a pulley S,
by means of a band running from a hand wheel R, or from a wheel
worked by a treadle below or by any suitable means.

page_text: The stitch is formed in the following manner: the needles, owing
to the arrangement of the cams J, J', upon the shaft B, are caused to
pierce and protrude through the cloth alternately, in regular succession,
far enough to bring their eyes a short distance beyond the opposite side
to that from which they enter; each is slightly drawn back preparatory
to the other passing through, but remains in the cloth with the eye still
protruding, until the other one has passed through, when it is entirely
withdrawn; a portion of the thread which has passed through the
needle's eye is carried through the cloth with it, and lays back along the
side (upper or lower, as the case may be) next the other needle, and
the slight drawing back of the needle already mentioned leaves this
portion of the thread slack, it being retained or prevented from going
back with the needle by the friction in the cloth. The other nicedle
before passing through the cloth passes between the first needle and
this slack portion of the thread, and when the first needle is withdrawn
the slack is left in the form of a loop around the second, which is then
slightly drawn back to leave a slack portion of its thread for the first to
pass through in its next movement; when the second needle is drawn
back it slides out from the loop, and leaves a new loop around the first,
the latter loop passing through the former. By this repeated operation
the seam is made, each needle as it is withdrawn from the cloth leaving
a loop which passes through the one left by the last withdrawal of the
other needle. It has been attempted to illustrate this operation in the
Drawing, where in Figures 1, & 2, the needle C¹, carrying the red
thread is protruding through the cloth, supposed to have just been
withdrawn enough to have the protruding thread slack on the upper
side of it, the needle C, carrying the black thread being about to move
towards the cloth; and in Figure 9, the needle C, is represented as
passing through the cloth, having previously passed between the needle
C', and its thread: When the needle C, has its eye protruded far
enough through the 'cloth C, will be withdrawn, and will have the part v,
of the red thread in a loop around C, in the same manner as the black
thread is now shown in the form of a loop x, around C', the new loop
in the red thread passing through, and remaining in that a, in the black
Each thread is drawn tight by means of the friction on its spool,
which prevents any more thread being given out until all the slack is
one.

page_text: drawn up. The cloth is moved back the proper distance for every stitch
by the weight P, every time a needle is withdrawn. The draught produced
by it on that needle which remains in the cloth drawing its bars against
the back stop e, that needle which is withdrawn has its bar. thrown
forward by the spring n, in the box K, and consequently enters in
advance of the one remaining in the cloth. The seam formed as
above described presents the same appearance on either side, if the
throat E, E', is adjusted to the centre of the machine, but by moving
it a little towards either side the loops will be thrown more towards the
opposite side of the seam, and will give the two sides different appearances.
.
The advantages of the improvements consist in the simplicity, great
strength of the seam, in the simplicity of the construction, and conse-
quently small cost of the machine, and in the extreme rapidity of its
working.
The modification of the machine shown in Figure 12, only differs in
the arrangement of the needles which do not enter in the same or
nearly the same line like those whose operation has been described; but
in two separate lines; this is for tlie purpose, of making the loops which
protrude the cloth overlap the edges of the seam, as is necessary in
making sail seans and other scams where the edges of the cloth come
together like a, a', in Figures 12, and 13. The needles C,.C™, in
this case are bent in the form of arcs, and are attached to radius bars
T, T, working on centres w, w, the said radius bars being driven by
bars F, F, similar to F, Fl. The seam thus formed is similar to
that described and shewn in Figures 10, & 11, but distorted. The
reason of the curvature of the needles is, that on account of the dis-
tance between the lines on which they enter the cloth they would be too
far separated, if straight.. to pass within each other's threads.

page_text: 2nd The employment of two straight needles C, C, arranged at
any suitable angle to each other, carrying separate threads, and operating
so as to be protruded through the cloth or material from opposite sides
thereof alternately, each of the said needles carrying through the cloth
a certain portion of thread which is caught by the other needle as it
passes through the cloth or material, and formed into a loop by the
withdrawal of that needle by which it is carried, substantially as herein
set forth.
3. The employment of two curved or arc-shaped needles C", C¹¹¹,
attached to radius rods T, T¹, and operating in a substantially similar
manner to the straight needles C, C', for the purpose herein set forth.
4th Moving the cloth and needles for repeating the stitch by a
weight P, or any equivalent device for producing a draught upon the
cloth, in combination with the longitudinal motion of the needles, and
their forward lateral motion produced by the spring n, or any equivalent
applied to the needles or their bars.
5th. The throat, consisting of two moveable plates E, E¹, adjustable
as and for the purposes herein described.
6th. Regulating the length of the stitch by means of two stops e,
and f, one at least of which is adjustable, applied on opposite sides of
each needle bar, for the purpose of controlling its lateral motion produced
by the draught on the cloth, and by the spring n, or any equivalent, as
set forth.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Auguste Edouard Loradoux Bellford in the
Great Seal Patent Office, on the 11th April 1853.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I,
AUGUSTE EDOUARD LORADOUX BELLFORD, of 16, Castle Street, Holborn,
in the City of London, Patent Agent, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Twelfth day of October, in the year
of our Lord One thousand cight hundred and fifty-two, in the
sixteenth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and succes-

page_text: sors, give and grant unto me, the said Auguste Edouard Loradoux
Bellford, Her special license that I, the said Auguste Edouard Lora-
doux Bellford, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others
as I, the said Auguste Edouard Loradoux Bellford, my executors, ad-
ministrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others,
from time to time and at all times thereafter during the term therein
expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend,
within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel
Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention, communicated to me by a
foreigner residing abroad, for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING CLOTH AND
OTHER MATERIALS," upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said
Auguste Edouard Loradoux Bellford, by an instrument in writing
under my hand and scal, should particularly describe and ascertain the
nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to
be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent
Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the date
of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Auguste Edouard Loradoux
Bellford, do hereby declare the nature of my said Invention, and in
what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described
and ascertained in and by the following statement (that is to say):
The first part of this Invention relates to the peculiar formation of
the seam, or to the manner in which the thread is arranged within
or combined with the material in which the same is made, for the
purpose of holding together the different parts. The seam is formed
by two threads, which are passed through the material alternately, in
regular succession and at regular intervals, from opposite sides, each in
a series of successive loops, of which every loop has its successor passed
through it; cach succeeding loop being formed of the opposite thread
to its predecessor passes through it, and thus prevents its being drawn
back through the material, or, in other words, forms the stitch.
In
this way the two threads when drawn tight are so closely interlaced or
locked together as to form a scam of such strength that it will bear
many of its stiches to be cut or broken without endangering the
security of their neighbors.

page_text: The second part of uns Invention relates to the means by wiICH CHE
threads are passed through the material and interlaced. together, and
consists of two needles, which are so arranged in relation to each other
and to the material, and so controlled and operated, as to pass the loops
through the cloth and interlace them, the material being at the same
time moved in the desired direction of the seam.
The third part of the Invention relates to the means by which the
material is moved at proper intervals to insert the loops; this consists
simply of a weight, spring, or any device which will give a constant
draft to the material in the required direction of the seam, acting in
combination with the withdrawal of the needles, and with certain move-
ments given to the needles independent of their movement through the
cloth or material.
The fourth part of the Invention consists in an adjustable throat or
guide, in which the material is held or guided at the part where it is
being sewn, which may be made of variable width to suit the thickness
of the material, and whose position may be altered to give certain dif-
ferences of appearance to the seam.
The fifth part of the Invention relates to certain means of regulating
the length of the stitch or distance between the insertions of the loops.
Figure 1, in the accompanying Drawing is a plan of a sewing
machine constructed according to these improvements.
Figure 2, is a vertical longitudinal section of the same, taken nearly
in the centre.
Figure 3, is a back view of the same, having the weight and its
adjuncts for moving the cloth omitted.
Figure 4, is a plan; and,
Figure 5, a vertical view, partly in section, of the means by which
the movements of the needles are controlled for regulating the length
of stitch..
Figure 6, is an inverted plan partly in section; and
Figure 7, is an elevation, partially sectional, of the means by which
the needles receive a portion of their movement.
Figure 8, exhibits in projection the peripheries of the two cams, by
which the movements are given to the needles..

page_text: Figure 9, exhibits the needles at a certain point in the operation of
making the stitch.
Figure 9, is a section of the needles on a larger scale.
Figure 10, is a face view on an exaggerated scale of the scam
made by this machine.
Figure 11, is a view, much exaggerated, showing the interlacing of
the two threads, each being shown of a separate color for the sake of
distinctness.
.
Figure 12, shows a modification of the needles and appendages for
producing a seam shown in Figure 13, and somewhat different in
external appearance to that shown in Figure 10, but having the stitches
formed in the same manner.
Similar letters of reference indicate corresponding parts in each of
the several Figures.
The machine shown in Figures 1, 2, and 3, with the exception of the
bed plate A, driving shaft B, and the cloth moving apparatus, is divided
into two similar portions' placed side by side, cach portion carrying one
of the two needles, and having similar acting members to the other; the
only difference being that the arrangement of the members in one is
precisely the reverse of that in the other. The framing, in addition to
the bed plate, consists of two tables C, C', supported by two pillars
D, D', at a short distance apart, the space between them in the centre
of the machine being for the passage of the cloth, which is indicated
edgewise by two lines of gray color a, a, in Figures 1, and 3, passing
between the throat or guide, which consists of two plates E, E', placed
on the front part of the tables, and having their inner or approaching
ends turned upwards to form the sides of the throat.
The plates E, E', are attached to the tables by screws, bolts, and nuts
b, b, and are adjustable at varying distances apart to alter the width of
the throat, and also to bring the throat either precisely in the centre or
a little towards either side of the machine. In cach side of the throat,
or in each plate, there is a slot o, to admit of the passage and free
working of the needles. The needles in this machine are straight, with
their eyes near the point passing through from the upper to the under
side, and are secured to the ends of two horizontal bars F, F', with

page_text: which they are in line, one bar being upon cach table; the needle c,
is just sufficiently higher than c', for its point to pass over that of the
latter, when they are caused to meet by the longitudinal motion of the
bars F, F. The needles are not in line, but stand at an angle of about
150° to each other, or at angles of about 15° to a line taken trans-
versely through the machine; from this position they do not in any
great degree vary during their operation, as their lateral movement is
trifling. The needle bars F, F1, receive longitudinal motion by being
attached to two arms G, G¹, on two vertical shafts H, H', which receive
a vibrating motion through other arms I, I', attached to the same shafts,
and furnished with friction rollers running in grooves sunk in the peri-
pheries of two cams J, J', in form the reverse of each other on the shaft
B. In addition to the longitudinal motion of the needle arms a slight
vibratory motion is also allowed from the pivots d,d, by which they are
attached to the arms G, G¹; the amount of the said vibratory motion
being regulated by two stops e, f, (see Figures 1, 3, 4, and 5,) applied
in opposite sides of each bar. Each stop e, which is behind its respective
needle bar, is stationary, and passing through the table, in which
it turns freely, forms a pivot on which the small block of metal
9, can be turned by a lever h. To each block g, is attached the oppo-
site or moveable stop f, and by moving the lever h, this stop can be
brought nearer to or farther from the centre of the machine, a greater
lateral movement of the needle bar being allowed by the former and a
lesser lateral movement by the latter position of the stop. Secured to the
under side of each lever h, is a point i, and upon the tables are indices
j, to any degree in which the points i, can be brought, the said indices
being graduated so that the lateral movement of the needle bars can be
regulated with accuracy. Each lever h, must be brought to a corre-
sponding point in the respective index in order to allow a correspond-
ing amount of lateral movement to each needle (the needles and needle
bars being of uniform length). To each pivot e, is attached a plate k,
which covers the needle bar, and with the block g, forms a guide to
keep the said bar from rising or falling; and to the lower end of the
pivot which protrudes through the bottom of the table is attached a lever
1, for the purpose of closing the top plate k, over the needle bar, or

page_text: removing it therefrom to allow the bar to be taken out. Figure 1,
shows the plate in the former, and Figure 4, in the latter position.
The pivots d, d, to which the needle bars are connected, are each secured
firmly to a spring box k, and turn freely in the ends of the arms G, G¹;
the needle bars are also secured by catch pins m, (see Figures 6, and 7,)
to the spring boxes; and the springs n, within the boxes are attached to
the boxes and the ends of the arms G, G, in such a manner as to throw
the needle bars forward against the stops f, f..
The threads are supplied to the needles from the spools I, I', one on
each table, and pass from the spools through guides p, p, on the back
ends of the needle bars, from thence through eyes in the sockets q, q, by
which the needles are connected to the bars, and from thence pass close
to the needle and through its eye. The thread v, from the spools L, is
shown in the Drawing of a black color, and that (p.) from the spool
L', is shown of a red color for the sake of distinction; the black thread
comes out from the eye in the socket g, above the needle c, passing
downwards through its eye; the red thread comes from the eye in socket
q, under the needle, and passes upwards through its eye. The spools
L, L', are placed upon pivots S, S, and a proper amount of friction to
produce a suitable draft on the threads is given by springs t, t, under
and nuts u, u, above them.
The cloth is connected by a hook M, to a cord N, passing over a
pulley O, at the back of the machine, and having a weight P, sus-
pended which tends to draw it backwards. The pulley O, is hung in a
standard Q, which should be adjustable at any distance behind the ma-
chine for long or short scams.
Motion is communicated to the driving shaft B, through a pulley S,
by means of a band running from a hand wheel R, or from a wheel
worked by a treadle below, or by any suitable means.
The stitch is formed in the following manner :-The needles, owing
to the arrangement of the cams J, J', upon the shaft B, are caused to
pierce and protrude through the cloth alternately, in regular succession,
far enough to bring their eyes a short distance beyond the opposite side
to that from which they enter; each is slightly drawn back preparatory
to the other passing through, but remains in the cloth with the eye still

page_text: protruding until the other one has passed through, when it is entirely
withdrawn. A portion of the thread which has passed through the needle's
eye is carried through the cloth with it, and lays back along the side
(upper or lower, as the case may be) next the other needle, and the
slight drawing back of the needle already mentioned leaves this portion
of the thread slack, it being retained or prevented from going back
with the needle by the friction in the cloth. The other needle, before
passing through the cloth, passes between the first needle and this slack
portion of the thread, and when the first needle is withdrawn the slack is
left in the form of a loop around the second, which is then slightly drawn
back to leave a slack portion of its thread for the first to pass through
in its next movement; when the second needle is drawn back it slides
out from the loop, and leaves a new loop around the first, the latter loop
passing through the former. By this repeated operation the seam is
made, each needle as it is withdrawn from the cloth leaving a loop
which passes through the one left by the last withdrawal of the other
needle. It has been attempted to illustrate this operation in the
Drawing, where, in Figures 1, and 2, the needle c', carrying the red
thread is protruding through the cloth, supposed to have just been with-
drawn enough to leave the protruding thread slack on the upper side of
it, the needle c, carrying the black thread being about to move towards
the cloth; and in Figure 9, the needle c, is represented as passing
through the cloth, having previously passed between the needle c', and
its thread. When the needle c, has the eye protruded far enough
through the cloth c³, will be withdrawn, and will leave the part v, of the
red thread in a loop around c, in the same manner as the black thread
is now shown in the form of a loop x, around c¹, the new loop in the
red thread passing through, and remaining in that (a,) in the black one.
Each thread is drawn tight by means of the friction on its spool, which
prevents any more thread being given out until all the slack is drawn
up. The cloth is moved back the proper distance for every stitch by the
weight P, every time a needle is withdrawn. The draft produced by it
on that needle which remains in the cloth drawing its bars against the
back stop e, that needle which is withdrawn has its bar thrown forward
by the spring n, in the box K, and consequently enters in advance of

page_text: the one remaining in the cloth. The seam formed as above described
presents the same appearance on either side, if the throat E, E', is ad-
justed to the centre of the machine, but by moving it a little towards
either side the loops will be thrown more towards the opposite side of
the seam, and will give the two sides different appearances.
The advantages of the improvements consist in the simplicity, great
strength of the seam, in the simplicity of the construction, and conse-
quently small cost of the machine, and in the extreme rapidity of its
working.
The modification of the machine shown in Figure 12, only differs in
the arrangement of the needles, which do not enter in the same or
nearly the same line like those whose operation has been described, but
in two separate lines; this is for the purpose of making the loops which
protrude through the cloth overlap the edges of the seam, as is neces-
sary in making sail seams and other seams where the edges of the cloth
come together like a', a', in Figures 12, and 13. The needles c¹¹, c
in this case are bent in the form of the arcs, and are attached to radius
bars T, T, working on centres w, w, the said radius bars being driven by
bars F, F, similar to F, F. The seam thus formed is similar to that
described and shown in Figures 10, and 11, but distorted. The reason
of the curvature of the needles is, that on account of the distance be-
tween the lines on which they enter the cloth they would be too far
separated, if straight, to pass within each other's threads.
cloth or any other material from opposite sides in a regular alternate
succession of loops, each of such loops passing through its predecessor,
and being passed through by its successor, as herein described, and illus-
trated in Figure 11, of the Drawing.
Second, the employment of two straight needles (c, c',) arranged at
any suitables angles to each other, carrying separate threads, and ope-
rating so as to be protruded through the cloth or material from opposite
sides thereof alternately, each of the said needles carrying through the
cloth a certain portion of thread, which is caught by the other needle as

page_text: it passes through the cloth or material, and formed into a loop by the
withdrawal of that needle by which it is carried, substantially as herein
set forth.
Third, the employment of two curved or arc-shaped needles c¹, c¹¹¹,
attached to radius rods T, T', and operating in a substantially similar
manner to the straight needles c, c¹, for the purpose herein set forth.
Fourth, moving the cloth and needles for repeating the stitch by a
weight P, or any equivalent device for producing a draft upon the cloth,
in combination with the longitudinal motion of the needles, and their
forward lateral motion produced by the spring n, or any equivalent
applied to the needles or their bars.
Fifth, the throat, consisting of two moveable plates E, E', adjust-
able as and for the purposes herein described.
Sixth, regulating the length of the stitch by means of two stops e,
and f, one at least of which is adjustable, applied on opposite sides of
each needle bar, for the purpose of controlling its lateral motion pro-
duced by the draft on the cloth, and by the spring n, or any equivalent,
as set forth.
In witness whereof, I, the said Auguste Edouard Loradoux Bell-
ford, have hereunto set my hand and seal, this Eleventh day
of April, One thousand eight hundred and fifty-three.
A. E. LORADOUX BELLFORD. (L.S.)