Improvements in Boot and Shoe Making and in Apparatus therefor.
Year: 1888

page_text: PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Boot and Shoe Making and in Apparatus therefor.
I ARTHUR CHARLES HENDERSON of 46, Southampton Buildings Holborn in the
county of Middlesex and 31, Lincoln Place, Leinster Street, Dublin, Patent Agent,
do hereby declare the nature of the said invention for IMPROVEMENTS IN BOOT
AND SHOE MAKING, AND IN APPARATUS THEREFOR, a communication to me from
abroad by Antoine Robert, Boot and Shoe Manufacturer of the city of Paris in the
Republic of France, to be as follows:-
The object of this invention is to expeditiously, and readily, conduct the manu-
facture in such a manner that any inexperienced operator can speedily acquire the
habit, the essential feature being that all the various parts constituting the boot, or
shoe, are moulded, or blocked, in moulds specially constructed, giving the requisite
form thereto; the several constituent parts, such as the vamp, or upper leather, the
inner sole, the outer sole, and the heel, with other accessories pertaining to the said
manufacture, the whole being united without nailing, riveting, sewing, or glueing,
each part being separately made, and finished, before they are finally united.
Taking as example the main constituent portions of a boot or shoe,
1st. The vamp may be of one, or two pieces, when two are employed, the leather is
first cut of the form and dimensions requisite, it is held by its edges between the
upper part of the mould, and a flange, it is then drivén or forced into the hollow
mould, by aid of the solid part of the mould, when it takes the desired form, the lower
part of the edges, are bent down and form the welt, the vamp is closed, or sewn, or
the edges may be double sewn, with strips covering the seam back and front. When
the vamp is of a single piece, much the same operation is performed, so far as regards
moulding, the part near the toe is pressed back by means of a tool, connected to the
mould, and worked by aid of a lever, and intermediate shaft. When removed from
the mould, the neck or ankle part, is separated with a knife.
The blocking mould, may be in several pieces, each of which is worked successively,
the vamp, and the inner sole, can thus be made of an entire piece.
2nd. The inner sole is usually stamped out, but is previously moulded with a heel
stiffener, all of a piece with the sole, or the stiffener can be blocked, or moulded
separately.

page_text: The heel stiffener can be fixed in the ordinary manner, but it is more practical, to
insert its edges between the inner, and outer parts of the vamp, and the insole.
If the boot, or shoe, has a toe cap, it is moulded, or blocked in a similar manner to
that already described, for the stiffener, that is to say its edges are inserted between
the waxed ends of the vamp, and insole.
3rd. The outer, or sole proper, is shaped by stamping it of the form, and dimensions
required, in the customary manner, it holds the edges of the vamp between it, and the
inner sole, and those of the stiffener, when the latter is not moulded or stamped in one
piece with the inner sole.
A pattern can be attached to the sole if deemed necessary, and fixed thereto by
nailing.
4th. The heel is either screwed, or otherwise attached to the sole, by an intermediate
piece, forming the base from which the heel springs, this may be of leather, or horn,
or some analogous substance.
If horn is used, then waste pieces are employed, first moistening them, they are
afterwards put into a mould, having a core, and a compresser. The strip of horn is
placed and held against the core on the projecting part of the mould, it is then driven
against this core by means of a lever, and roller, which turns round the mould.
When the horn has been driven round the core, a smart blow is given to the
compresser, and the moulding is completed.
The connection of the several parts forming the boot, or shoe, that is to say the
vamp, the innor, and outer sole, and the heel, is effected by connecting devices formed
of a shaft, with a square shoulder, and a screw threaded part, on which a nut works.
One end of the shaft terminates conically, above which a rivet head is formed.
These connecting devices may be slightly modified, but in all cases, the principle of
construction is the same.
Holes are accurately made, and gauged in the parts to be united by these devices,
in such a manner, that the holes in each piece, come exactly opposite each other, and
accurately coincide.

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Boot and Shoe Making and in Apparatus therefor.
I ARTHUR CHARLES HENDERSON of 46, Southampton Buildings, Holborn, in the
county of Middlesex and 31, Lincoln Place, Leinster Street, Dublin, Patent Agent
do hereby declare the nature of the said invention for IMPROVEMENTS IN BOOT, AND
SHOE MAKING, AND IN APPARATUS THEREFOR, and in what manner the same is to be
performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement, a communication to me from abroad by Antoine Robert, Boot and Shoe
Manufacturer of 26, Rue Richelieu, in the city of Paris in the Republic of France, to
be as follows:-
The object of this invention is to expeditiously and readily conduct the manufacture
in such a manner that the least experienced workman can speedily acquire the know-
ledge, the essential feature being that all the, various parts constituting the boot or
shoe such as the upper leather, the inner sole, the outer sole, and the heel, with other
accessories pertaining to the said manufacture are moulded or blocked in specially
constructed moulds for giving the requisite form to the several constituent parts, the
whole being afterwards united without nailing, riveting, sewing, or glueing; each
part being separately made and finished before it is finally united with the other parts,
which operation is performed in a purely mechanical manner. A boot or shoe
manufactured in this manner being as solid, strong, and cheaper than those manu-
factured in the ordinary manner, their external appearance being in every respect
pleasing to the eye.
Fig. 1, represents a military fatigue boot, made by the method herein referred to,
seen partly in section.
Fig. 2, is a plan of the bottom of this boot.
Figs. 3 and 4, are transverse sections taken at the lines 1-2, 3-4, of Fig. 1.
Figs. 5 to 18, and 25 inclusive are details and modifications hereafter described.
Figs. 19 to 24, relate to the tools employed in the manufacture. Fig. 13 represents
a toe cap seen in section. Fig. 14 showing it in plan.
The same letters of reference indicate like parts shown in the various figures.
Taking as example the main constitutive portions of a boot or shoe commencing
with the upper leather which may be of a single piece or in two parts a, Figs. 1, 2, 5, 6,
and 7, they are pressed in a mould of special construction m, Fig. 19. The leather
cut of the form and dimensions required is held by its edges between the upper part
of the mould, and a flange m¹, and is then driven or forced into the mould by the
block m², and the leather takes the form of the mould evenly and closely without
injuring it in any way, the lower edges are bent down and form the welt a', the upper
part at a², forming the neck vide Figs. 6 and 7.
The two pieces of the upper are sewn together at their edges, and may be double
sewn with strips covering the seam back and front.
Underneath, the edges may be united parallel to one another to form the inner sole,
or they may be cut to admit of the insertion of the inner sole.

page_text: When the upper is of a single piece, much the same operation is performed so far
as regards moulding is concerned. In Fig. 20, it will be observed that the leather
held by its edges between the upper part of the mould n, and a flange n', is blocked
by the block n, this being afterwards removed, the part near the toe is pressed back
by means of the tool n³, connected to the tool and worked by a lever n', which by aid 5
of the intermediate shaft n³, causes it to slide on its support no. The bottom b¹, of the
neck is cut with the knife.
By making the blocking mould in several pieces and working them successively a
boot or shoe can be made of one piece comprising the inner sole, and the upper leather
this would form either a slipper for indoor use or by the addition of an extra sole and
heel a solid article is produced.
The inner sole b, Figs. 1, 5, 9, is usually stamped out, but is previously moulded
with a heel stiffener f, all of a piece Figs. 9, 10, so as to lessen labour and obtain the
maximum solidity in this part of the boot or shoe.
The stiffener can be blocked separately as shown f', f1, Figs. 11, 12, by aid of the
tools Figs. 21, 22. In this case the leather c, held by the flange d', on the mould d,
is forced into the latter by the block d².
The heel stiffener f, Figs. 9, 10, or 1 Figs. 11, 12, can be fixed in the ordinary
manner, but it is more practical to insert its edges between the inner part or edge of
the upper leather and the insole when the stiffener is distinct, (these parts being waxed
througbout their length) and then inserted in its position at the heel or the stiffener
may be inserted between the split end of the upper and insole as shown Fig. 5. By
fixing the stiffener in this manner it is perfectly invisible and is smooth inside.
If the boot or shoe is furnished with a toe cap seen in plan Fig. 14 & section
Fig. 13 it is fixed in the same manner as the stiffener its edges being inserted between
the waxed extremities of the inner sole and the split end of the upper as shown
Fig. 5.
The sole e, Figs. 1, 2, 3, is shaped by stamping it of the form and dimensions
required, in the customary manner, it holds the edges of the upper leather, and the
stiffener between it and the insole when the stiffener is not made of a piece with the
insole.
A patten can be fixed under the sole e, by screws or nails as shown by dotted lines
Fig. 3.
The heel is either screwed or otherwise attached to the sole e, by an intermediate
piece e¹, Figs. 1, 4, 5, forming the base from which the heel springs, this may be of
leather, or moulded horn Fig. 25, or some analogous substance.
If horn is used, then waste pieces are employed, first moistening them, they are
afterwards put into a mould g, Figs. 23, 24, having a core g', and a compressor h.
The strip of horn x, is placed and held against the core g', on the projecting part
of the mould, it is then driven against this core by means of a lever, and roller k,
which turns round the mould. When the horn has been driven round the core, a
smart blow is given to the compressor h, and the moulding is completed.
The, heel t, fastened to the part el, is of leather, wood, horn, or any other suitable
substance.
The connection of the several parts forming the boot or shoe, that is to say the
upper leather, the inner and outer sole, and the heel is effected by the connecting
devices Figs. 15, 16, 17, 18.
Fig. 13, represents one of these connecting pieces formed of a shaft o with square
shoulder P, and a screw threaded party, on which a nut r, works.
One end of the shaft terminates conically s, above which a rivet head is formed.
Fig. 16, represents a somewhat similar connecting piece, the shaft o, is riveted to
the inner sole y, held in it by the shoulder p, which prevents its turning: the
part q, traverses the sole y', and part y', which it locks together firmly with the screv
or nut r.
Fig. 17, shows this device in detail with its conical rivet head s.
Fig. 18, represents the device employed for fixing the heel, it comprises the nut

page_text: Figs. 1, 2, and 4, explain how these.connecting devices are employed the part e¹,
from which the heel springs being of metal.
Holes are previously accurately made and gauged in the parts to be united by
these devices, in such a manner that the holes in each piece come exactly opposite
each other and accurately coincide.
When the part x, is of horn Fig. 25, it can be screw threaded in the holes where
the connecting devices are inserted, and thus do away with the nut screws T.
Finally as these connecting pieces have their heads fixed in the inner sole, they can
be made of a single piece without the nut r, the ends outside the sole e, terminating
in any desired forin, or riveted with a head outside.
This method would be employed for a cheaper kind of boot or shoe.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is.
1st. The manufacture of boots and shoes as herein described by moulding the
several parts in specially constructed moulds the upper leather a, consisting of either
one single piece or two parts, and the insole b, made of a piece with the stiffener f, or
the latter blocked separately, the sole e, being provided with a patten or not, and fixed
to the part e', which latter is either of metal, horn, leather, or other substance: all
these parts being separately made and finished by means of the tools and moulds
herein before described, and then united one with the other by means of the connecting
pieces Figs. 15. 16. 17 and 18 such pieces consisting essentially of the nuts r, and
bolts o, the latter passing from the inner sole to the outside of the parts united, and
keeping them locked together by the screw nuts screwing onto the bolts 0, which
devices and their employment as herein described I claim as part of my invention.
Holes for the reception of these pieces being previously accurately made in the
upper, the inner and outer sole and the stiffener and heel, so that such parts can be
quickly and securely put together, or disconnected if required, neither nailing, glueing,
sewing or screwing being necessary.
2nd. The construction of the tools and moulds herein described and illustrated for
shaping and blocking the upper leather in one or two pieces Figs. 19 and 20. For
blocking the insole and stiffener in one piece Figs. 21 and 22. For blocking the
heels and parts from which they spring Figs. 23. 24. and 2%.
3rd. The employment of the connecting devices for connecting the various parts of
the boot or shoe, either with or without the nut r, and also the use of such devices
whether to boots and shoes constructed according to this invention or applying them
to the manufacture of boots and shoes as in present use.
11
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