AN IMPROVED APPARATUS FOR TAKING THE PATTERNS OF BOOTS AND SHOES
Year: 1878

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Charles Victor Allié and Auguste François Ygouf, Manu-
facturers, of Boulevard de Strasbourg, No. 23, at Paris, for the Invention of
AN IMPROVED APPARATUS FOR TAKING THE PATTERNS OF BOOTS AND
SHOES."
Sealed the 4th February 1879, and dated the 12th August 1878.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Charles Victor Allié and
Auguste François Ygouf at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the
12th August 1878.
"
CHARLES VICTOR ALLIE and AUGUSTE FRANÇOIS YGOUF, Manufacturers, of
Boulevard de Strasbourg, No. 23, at Paris. AN IMPROVED APPARATUS FOR
TAKING THE PATTERNS OF BOOTS AND SHOES."
The improved apparatus which forms the subject of the present Invention is
intended for taking the pattern of the shape of the foot in order to make boots or
shoes therefrom. It is composed of a frame, open at its centre, so that the foot can
be placed upon a foot plate below. The frame is also formed with horizontal grooves
in which radiating bars slide freely, these bars each terminate at their inner ends
in a vertical finger provided with a point at its lower part. Outside the frame the
bars are each pierced with an eyelet hole, through which a cord passes to enable
them to be brought into contact with the foot. This cord is guided at its two ends
by two small rollers, and these ends engage under an excentric or cam which holds
them fast when a button at the end is pushed down.
The cord can be replaced by a continuous coiled spring which presses upon all
the radiating bars and forces them into contact with the foot. The bars have in
that case a small circular notch to receive a coiled spring.
To take by means of this apparatus the pattern of the boot to be made we place
the foot plate in the middle of a bed or table by means of two pins; this bed is pro-
vided with cork. Upon this bed and underneath the foot plate is placed a piece of
paper, upon which the pattern is to be taken. If the bed be raised the points of
11

page_text: the fingers before named will pierce the paper owing to the flexibility of the cork
on the bed or table, so that the shape of the foot will be reproduced by a line of
dots or holes upon the pattern.
The bed or table provided with its layer of cork has also a spring, steel, or brass
plate to retain the sheet of paper upon which the pattern of the boot is to be
pricked.
The bed or table which carries the paper slides in dovetails like a drawer upon a
small rod or bar of wood fixed to a metal bed below. This bed receives the lifting
movement direct by means of two cams fixed upon a horizontal shaft, to which a
rotary movement is imparted by means of a handle or key. Rods fixed to the
upper bed or table guide it, and springs lower it when the cams cease to act.
The plate on which the foot is placed is divided into two parts. The heel
portion can be separated more or less from the other part, which is hollow in its
middle and carries a rod upon which two rings slide, to which are fixed graduated
bands to serve as measures.
When the foot is on the plate the necessary measures as to height, thickness, etc.,
are taken whilst the pattern is being made, the graduated bands being employed for
that purpose. One end of each graduated band has a loop or guide in which the
other end engages.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said Charles Victor Allié and Auguste François Ygouf in the Great Seal
Patent Office on the 11th February 1879.
CHARLES VICTOR ALLIÉ and AUGUSTE FRANÇOIS YGOUF, Manufacturers, of
Boulevard de Strasbourg, No. 23, at Paris. "AN IMPROVED APPARATUS FOR
TAKING THE PATTERNS OF BOOTS AND SHOES."
The improved apparatus which forms the subject of the present Invention is
intended for taking the patterns of the shape of the foot in order to make boots or
shoes therefrom. It resembles an apparatus sometimes employed for taking the
shape of the head, but it is adapted for the present purpose by a particular combina-
tion, which can be modified in several ways, as represented in the annexed Drawings,
and herein-after described.
The first and most complete modification of the apparatus is represented in
Sheet 1. Figure 1 is a longitudinal section; Figure 2, a plan; Figures 3 and 4
show in elevation and side view the apparatus which is adjusted on that represented
in Figure 1, and which is for taking the patterns of the different sections of the
foot, while the part of the apparatus shown in Figure 1 is for taking the plan of
the foot.
The apparatus is composed of a frame A open at its centre so that the foot can
be placed upon a foot plate B. The frame is also formed with grooves a, in which
bars 6 slide freely; these bars each terminate at their inner ends by a vertical
finger c, provided with a point d at its lower part. Outside the frame the bars are
each pierced with an eyelet hole o, through which a cord f passes to enable them to
be brought into contact with the foot. This cord is guided at its ends by two
small rollers y and y¹, and these ends engage under an excentric or cam h¹, which
holds them fast when a button z at the end is pushed down (see Figure 5, Sheet 1).
The cord can be replaced by a continuous coiled spring action, which presses upon
all the radiating bars and forces them into contact with the foot P, adopting all its
contour. The bars 6 have in that case a small circular notch to receive the coiled
spring.
Below the foot plate B is a bed or table D, covered with cork h. Upon this bed D
and underneath the foot plate B we place a piece of paper a upon which the pattern
is to be taken. If the bed be raised the points d of the fingers will pierce the paper
owing to the suppleness of the cork on the bed or table, so that the contour of the
foot will be reproduced by a line of dots or holes upon the paper.
The bed or table provided with its layer of cork has also a spring steel or brass
plate k, which is fastened at x¹ and serves to retain the sheet of paper a upon which
the pattern of the boot is to be pricked.
-I
The bed or table which carries the paper slides in dovetails like a drawer upon a
metal bed D' below. This bed receives the lifting movement direct by means of
two cams n and n¹, fixed upon a horizontal shaft p, to which rotary movement is
imparted by means of a handle or key q. "The bed D may be lowered by springs
when the cams cease to act.
The plate B on which the foot is placed may be divided into two parts; the heel
portion can be separated more or less from the other part. The plate carries in its
middle, as shown on a smaller scale in Figures 1 and 2, Sheet 2, a rod f¹, to which
is fixed a graduated band F to serve as a measure for the thickness of the foot. The
foot being placed with the heel against the back bar c the rod f¹ is pulled so as to
bring the band F to the part of the foot which it is wished to measure.
It is well.
to have also a fixed measuring band at F¹.
When the foot is on the plate B the necessary measures as to height, thickness,
&c., are taken whilst the pattern is being made, the graduated bands being employed
for that purpose.
We will now describe the apparatus by means of which we take the pattern of
the contour of the foot. This comprises the apparatus shown in Figures 3 and 4,

page_text: Sheet 1, for measuring the profile of the foot in elevation. It is composed of a frame
formed of two uprights i, connected by horizontal cross pieces j, j₁; between these
are guided vertical rods 1, fitted with pins m; below the pins m is a cross piece ³,
held by springs r.
If this piece be lowered so as to free the rods / the latter will
rest on the foot and the pins m will give the contour of the foot, as indicated in
dotted lines in Figure 3. To the frame is hinged a plate D³ faced with cork h¹, and
carrying the paper x for receiving the pattern. This apparatus is intended to slide
on the frame A of the apparatus, Figures 1 and 2. For this purpose the frame A
has at each side a slide g, in which the feet e of the uprights i engage. The moving
inwards of the bars b can be effected by the arrangement shown in Figure 2, Sheet 2.
The bars have two rows of holes v, v₁, through which are passed the wires u, u³,
which go through the supports t. By drawing the wire u¹ the bars b are moved
against the foot; by freeing the wire u¹ and drawing the wire u the bars are
removed.
With the arrangement shown in vertical section in Figure 3, and in plan in
Figure 4 (Sheet 2), the contour of the foot is obtained without the necessity of
moving the bars b¹ in or out. This arrangement is composed of two frames A¹, A²,
united by supports X. To the upper frame A2 are jointed the bars b¹, the lower
part of which slides in grooves a¹ of the lower frame A¹. All these bars tend con-
stantly to approach the middle of the frame A¹ owing to the action of india-rubber f³
which passes from one bar to another. The bars have points or pins d¹ at their
lower ends to prick the pattern on the paper, as has been previously described.
The modification represented in section in Figure 5, Sheet 2, and in plan in
Figure 6, comprises two bent frames C, C', between which slide the bars 6%, and
which are locked together by means of screws E. Each bar 62 has a groove y',
corresponding to the pin x', so that the bars cannot be withdrawn. In order to
take the pattern of the foot with this arrangement the screws E are loosened and
the bars 6² are pushed by the hand so that they adopt the contour of the foot; the
screws E are then tightened. The pattern is traced on paper by means of a pencil,
which follows the inner circumference of the bars 62. This apparatus is specially
intended to take the pattern in plan.
To take the pattern in elevation at different parts of the foot we employ as a
complement of the apparatus shown in Figures 5 and 6 that shown in elevation and
plan in Figures 7 and 8. It is likewise formed of two frames G, G¹, having between
them the bars 63, and locked by the screws H. These frames are mounted on a
board K. Each bar b³ has a hole o¹ to receive the wire f³, which after having
passed into one bar goes round a small pin g', then returns to the following bar, and
so on (see Figure 7). To move all the bars inwards the free end of the wire f³
which is engaged under the rod k² is pulled. This wire is fastened to the teeth of
the wheel by the spring click u¹. When a pattern has been taken and it is
wished to move the bars b³ outwards the click u¹ is lifted and the wire f³ is thereby
freed;
the bars are immediately moved out by the india-rubber 8, which passes
through holes at the ends of the bars and to the ends of the supports r.
Figure 9 represents in plan a very simple apparatus for taking the pattern of the
conformation of the foot. It is composed of a guide Q with a groove R in which
the piece S can slide; this serves as a guide in the transverse direction to the
piece T, at the end of which at o³ is jointed the piece U, carrying a tracing point at
d. The piece T is constantly pushed by the india-rubber f* fixed at i¹, so that it
follows the contour of the foot when the piece S is moved in its guide. The india-
rubber b' tends to bring the piece U in a line with T; they move over each other
at the heel. The complete apparatus comprises two apparatus placed symmetri-
cally one at each side of the foot.
And having now described the nature of our said Invention, and in what manner.
the same is to be performed, we declare that we claim,-
First. Constructing apparatus for taking patterns for boots and shoes substantially &
as herein-before described, and represented in the annexed Drawings.
Second. The arrangement of apparatus substantially as herein-before described

page_text: with reference to Figures 1 and 2, Sheet 1, with horizontal finger bars, acted upon
by a cord or a spring, each finger being provided underneath with a point for
forming the pattern.
Third. The pattern bed or table (Figures 1 and 2, Sheet 1), with means of raising
it in order to form the pattern on a sheet of paper, substantially as herein-before
described.
Fourth. The holding or fixing of the cord or wire by means of a cam, as described
with reference to Figure 5, Sheet 1; or in the manner described with reference to
Figure 2, Sheet 2.
Fifth. The movable slide or draw bar with measuring band for measuring
different parts of the foot, as herein-before described with reference to Figures 1
and 2, Sheet 2.
Sixth. The apparatus herein-before described with reference to Figures 3 and 4,
Sheet 1, for measuring in height the profile of the foot at different places.
Seventh. The arrangement of inclined bars which are automatically moved
inwards and outwards by the action of the india-rubber which goes from one bar to
another, as herein-before described with reference to Figures 3 and 4, Sheet 2.
Eight. The arrangements with bent frames herein-before described with reference
to Figures 5 and 6 and Figures 7 and 8 respectively, for forming by the moving
inwards of the bars the contour of the foot, which is then traced with a pencil on
a sheet of paper.
Ninth. The apparatus to be worked by the hand, represented in Figure 9, Sheet 2,
and herein-before described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Auguste François Ygouf, for myself and on
behalf of the said Charles Victor Allié, have hereunto set my hand and seal,
this Eighth day of February, One thousand eight hundred and seventy-
nina
Witness,
JULES ARMENGAUD, jeune,
of Paris,
Boulevard de Strasbourg, No. 23,
Civil Engineer.
A. F. YGOUF. (L.S.)