IMPROVEMENTS IN THE WOVEN GOODS KNOWN AS 'CORDS,' AND IN THE METHODS OF WEAVING THE SAME
Year: 1878

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to James Newton and John Edward Newton, trading under
the style of Henry and John William Lees, at New Royd Mill, Saddleworth, in
the County of York, Cotton Manufacturers, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS
IN THE WOVEN GOODS KNOWN AS 'CORDS,' AND IN THE METHODS OF
WEAVING THE SAME."
Scaled the 21st January 1879, and dated the 24th July 1878.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said James Newton and John
Edward Newton at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 24th July
1878.
JAMES NEWTON and JOHN EDWARD NEWTON, trading under the style of Henry
and John William Lees, at New Royd Mill, Saddleworth, in the County of York,
Cotton Manufacturers. IMPROVEMENTS IN THE WOVEN GOODS KNOWN AS CORDS,
AND IN THE METHODS OF WEAVING THE SAME.'
"
"
Our Invention relates to the ribbed or corded goods now well known under the
designation or cords. Such goods are woven with races of loops of weft floating
over the ground or foundation, and the said races are cut and raised to form the
ribbed or corded pile, as is well understood. The weft employed in the weaving of
such goods may be divided into face picks and ground or foundation picks, the
latter picks serving to unite with the warp to form the ground or foundation of the
cloth and to bind in the face picks.
In the ordinary method of weaving each of these ground picks floats over two
ends and under two ends throughout the pick, the picks forming a twill upon the
back of the cloth.
For certain requirements it is of importance that the cloth shall have a fine close
looking back, which when finished will have a soft and thick feel. To obtain this
result without impoverishing the face or pile is the object of the first part of our
Invention. To this end we cause the ground picks to float over three ends at the

page_text: back, each float being either one or two ends in advance of the float of the previous
pick, that is to say, one float overlaps another one or two ends, according to the
degree of fineness required in the back. The said picks may float over more than
three ends, say, for example, over four ends, but we prefer that each pick shall float
over three ends and under two alternately, what we term the floats appearing on
the back of the cloth.
By way of example, to produce a fine back we lift three ends, say, ends 1, 2, and
3, in every five ends for a ground pick. For the next ground pick we lift ends 3, 4,
and 5, and for a third ground pick ends 5, 1, and 2.
A second part of our Invention relates to a former Invention, for which Letters
Patent bearing date the Seventh day of December, in the year last ended, and
numbered 4681, have been granted to us.
The object of the said former Invention was to obtain a good curl or "cockle " in
the cloth, whereby the appearance of the cloth was improved, and this part of our
present Invention consists of an additional method of accomplishing the object of
our former Invention.
In our former Invention, in each six ends of the warp ends, 1 and 2 would be
lifted for one ground pick, and ends 3 and 4 for the next ground pick, ends 5 and 6
being lifted alternately.
According to our present Invention ends 1 to 4 would be lifted alternately as
when weaving plain cloth for each alternate ground pick, the said four ends being
treated in pairs, as in our former Invention, for the intermediate ground picks.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said James Newton and John Edward Newton in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 24th January 1879.
JAMES NEWTON and JOHN EDWARD NEWTON, trading under the style of Henry
and John William Lees, at New Royd Mill, Saddleworth, in the County of York,
Cotton Manufacturers. "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE WOVEN GOODS KNOWN AS CORDS,
AND IN THE METHODS OF WEAVING THE SAME.
Our Invention relates to the ribbed or corded goods now well known under the
designation of cords. Such goods are woven with races of loops of weft floating
over the ground or foundation, and the said races are cut and raised to form the
ribbed or corded pile, as is well understood. The weft employed in the weaving of
such goods may be divided into face picks and ground or foundation pricks, the
latter pricks serving to unite with the warp to form the ground or foundation of
the cloth and to bind in the face picks.
In the ordinary methods of weaving, each of these ground picks floats over two
ends and under two ends throughout the pick, the picks forming a twill upon the
back of the cloth.
For certain requirements it is of importance that the cloth shall have a fine close
looking back, which when finished will have a soft and thick feel. To obtain this
result without impoverishing the face or pile is the object of the first part of our
Invention. To this end we cause the ground picks to float over three ends at the
back, each float being either one or two ends in advance of the float of the previous
pick, that is to say, one float overlaps another one or two ends, according to the
degree of fineness required in the back. The said picks may float over more than
three ends, say, for example, over four ends, but we prefer that each pick shall float
over three ends and under two alternately, what we term the floats appearing on
the back of the cloth.
A second part of our Invention relates to a former Invention, for which Letters
Patent bearing date the Seventh day of December, in the year last ended, and
numbered 4681, have been granted to us..
The object of the said former Invention was to obtain a good curl or "cockle" in
the cloth, whereby the appearance of the cloth was improved, and this part of our
present Invention consists of an additional method of accomplishing the object of
our former Invention.
In our former Invention, in each six ends of the warp, ends 1 and 2 would be
lifted for one ground pick, and ends 3 and 4 for the next ground pick, ends 5 and 6
being lifted alternately.
According to our present Invention ends 1 to 4 would be lifted alternately as
when weaving plain cloth for each alternate ground pick, the said four ends being
treated in pairs, as in our former Invention for the intermediate ground picks.
And in order that our Invention may be fully understood we have appended
hereunto a Sheet of Diagrams to which we will now refer.
Drafts 1 and 2 are two weaver's drafts, which illustrate the manner in which the
first part of our Invention is carried into effect. The first draft indicates the method
of weaving cords having a single twill back. In every five ends throughout the
warp three are lifted, and two are down for each ground pick. Taking any five
ends, for example, the lifting of the said ends for each five consecutive ground picks
will be as indicated in Fig. 1. For one pick the third, fourth, and fifth ends are
lifted; for a second pick the second, third, and fourth ends are lifted; for a third
pick the first, second, and third ends are lifted; for a fourth pick the first, second,
and fifth ends are lifted; and for a fifth pick the first, fourth, and fifth ends are
lifted.

page_text: Fig. 2 illustrates the appearance of the ground picks upon the back of the
cloth.
Draft 2 and Fig. 3 indicate a modification.
In this example both ends that were down for any one pick are lifted for the
next pick, the appearance of the ground picks upon the back of the cloth being
indicated by Fig. 4.
A finer or closer back may be obtained-by lifting four or more contiguous ends
for each ground pick, instead of three, but we now consider the latter number to be
suitable.
.
Draft 3 illustrates the second part of our Invention. In this example the picks
numbered 1, 4, 7, and 10 represent the ground picks. The ends 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, and
11 are lifted for the first ground pick; the ends 3, 4, 6, 9, 10, and 12 are lifted for
the second ground pick; the ends 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, and 12 are lifted for the third
ground pick; and the ends 1, 2, 5, 7, 8, and 11 are lifted for the fourth ground pick,
which completes the pattern.
Having now fully set forth and indicated the nature of our said Invention, and
the manner in which we carry the same into practical effect, we would have it to
be understood in conclusion that we claim,―
.
First. The weaving of "cords "with a fine or close back, substantially as set forth
and indicated.
And, lastly. The weaving of "cords," substantially in accordance with draft 3.
In witness whereof, I, the said James Newton, for myself and on behalf of the
said John Edward Newton, have hereunto set my hand and seal, this
Twenty-second day of January, in the year of our Lord One thousand
eight hundred and seventy-nine.
Signed and sealed by the said James
Newton in the presence of
HUGH GRANT,
Clerk to Edward K. Dutton,
Agent to the Patentees,
St. Ann's Churchyard,
Manchester..
JAMES NEWTON.
(L.S.)