A NEW OR IMPROVED SEWING MACHINE FOR UNITING THE SELVEDGES OF STOCKINGS AND OTHER HOSIERY
Year: 1873

page_text: PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by Bruno Rudolph at the Office
of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 12th
March 1873.
I, BRUNO RUDOLPH, of Berlin, in the Kingdom of Prussia, do
hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "A NEW OR IMPROVED
SEWING MACHINE FOR UNITING THE SELVEDGES OF STOCKINGS AND OTHER HOSIERY,"
to be as follows:-
The sowing machine the subject of this Invention is illustrated on tho
accompanying Sheet of Drawing, and consists of the following parts:-
The shaft W which may be rotated by any driving mechanism usual in
sewing machines; attached to this shaft W, are 1, the eccentrio e,
(Fig. 1); 2, the eccentric disc e³, (Fig. 2); 3, tho diso p, (Fig. 1);
4, the grooved cylinder c, (Fig. 2). The eccentric e for driving the
necdle n, and having for this purpose a movable connection with the
rod K. (Fig. 1), which is guided in a straight line, transmits a to-and-fro
motion to the rod K. and to the needle bar a (Fig. 1) fixed to K. The
curvilinear eccentric e³ is a grooved disc, and in the groove of this diso
slides a pin, which being connected by means of a guide pins (Fig. 1)

page_text: with the lever II (Fig. 1) fixed to the arm Z (Figures 1 and 2), causes
that lever to move vertically up and down. By means of the pin t
(Figures 1 and 2) these oscillations are transmitted to the rectilinear
moving rod 6 (Figures 1 and 2) the lever being for this purpose
provided with a slot at its foro part in which the pin
t
may slido;
to obviate any jolting of the rod 6 the pin is at the same time guided
in a straight vertical slot of the arm Z. Attached to the lower part of
b is the catch ƒ (Figures 1 and 2) the purpose of which is herein-after
explained. By means of the pin (Fig. 2) the grooved cylinder o
(Fig. 2) is connected with the lever ³ (Figures 1 and 2) which is fixed
to the arm Z by means of the pin (Fig. 2). The other part of the
lever h² being furnished with a toothed sector gearing with a toothed
wheel A (Figures 1 and 2) swings in a horizontal plane when the
machine is put in motion. These oscillations cause the wheel A. and
its shaft I (Figures 1 and 2) to turn backward and forward within a
certain angle. The lower part of the shaft I has attached to it tho
catch or hook f (Figures 1 and 2) the purpose of which will be herein-
after explained. The disc p (Fig. 1) gears with the notched or crown
wheel (Figures 1 and 2). The curved part u (Fig. 1) of the disc p
causes the wheel r to turn to the extent of one tooth or notch after cach
revolution of W or p; by means of the bevel wheels O and O³ (Fig. 1)
an intermittent rotation is transmitted from the wheel r to the small
pillar V (Fig. 1) and from the latter to the other small pillar Y by
means of the toothed wheels m and m³ (Fig. 1), the vessels 7 and
g' fixed on y and y' having therefore the same motion.
The apparatus X shown full size, Figures 3, 4, and 5, is fixed to tho
arm Z by means of three screws. It consists of the following parts:—
1, the frame piece D (Figures 1, 2, and 3) with pivot transversely
applied to it; 2, the lever and handle O (Figures 1, 2, and 3) fixed to
the said pivot of the frame pieco D by means of a screw N (Figures 1,
2, and 3); 3, the flat pieco E having screwed to both its sides the parts
H, II, and the springs L, L³, (Figures 1 and 5) for guiding the fabric;
4, the spring S furnished with the catches 83, 83. All the pieces shown.
in Figures 3, 4, and 5, are fixed to the frame pièce D. The lever and
handle C attached to the frame picce D by means of the screw N carries
the flat piece E (Figures 1, 2, and 3) and bears against the catch ¸³
(Figures 1, 2, and 3) when the apparatus is set at work, but it is carried
to and bears against the catch ³ when the fabric is carried to the parts
which are herein-aftor described.

page_text: The picces H and H and feeding springs L, L, shown full size
Figures 4 and 5, are fixed to flat piece E (Figures 1, 2, and 3) on
both its sides by means of small screws. The pieces H and H and tho
feeding springs are most essential parts of the apparatus X; in order
to give a clear illustration of their operations it is necessary to describo
firstly tho fabric to be stitched.
By means of the apparatus X the machine is also adapted for sewing
looped fabrics.
.
The parts of hosiery to be stitched aro furnished with tight edges
or selvedges which have the peculiar quality of turning inwards. In
order to sew them by machinery a particular apparatus was required,
and such is the apparatus X; the fabric is carried to the apparatus in
the following manner :-
To facilitate the feeding of the fabric to the apparatus, the flat
pieco E (Figures 1, 2, and 3) is carried by means of the lever O from
the catch ³ to the catch &'. Each selvedge of the flattened fabric to bo
stitched is now put beneath the pieces I and H* (Figures 1 and 5) and
that to the lower parts a, a², up to the dotted line b. To tako in tho
fabrio the parts a, a³, of II and H (Figures 3, 4, and 5) at the sides
bearing against the flat piece E are as much reduced as the thickness of
tho fabric requires. The fabric being in this manner put in the
apparatus, it is brought into the required position for sowing by means
of the lever C which is carried from ³ to s³. From a, a, the fabric is
carried through the guido springs L, L, (Figures 4 and 5) to the vessels
9 and ³ (Figures 1 and 2); theso vessels in rotating draw the fabric
pressed between them one stitch on and make the fabric tendered in tho
apparatus unroll itself at the outer edge of a at the point d (Figures 1
and 5).
Figures 1 and 2 are drawn half size, and Figures 3, 4, and 5,
full sizo.
The Sewing by the Machino.-Both the selvedges to be stitched aro
pressed between the two vessels g, ƒ, (Fig. 1). The vessels 0, 0, on
their small pillars Y, Y³, revolve around fixed shafts. The shaft Y is
fixed to the spring F (sco dotted lines, Fig. 1) which therefore presses
against g³. In order to carry the fabric between them the vessels g, g³,
aro retired from each other, this being done in bending down the spring
by means of the projection 8. In order not to give too much tension to
the spring the bracket 2 (Figures 1 and 2) is applied to secure it while

page_text: limiting the retirement of from 9. The fabric between the vessels
projects very little over the edge of the same as the needle plays close
above the edge of the vessels. The needle with vertical eye is screwed
to the picco a which is attached to K and is put in motion by e.
The thread passes from the bobbin over the expanding roller *
(Fig. 1) through the slot of the pin around which a spiral spring
is loosely wound to the thread guide d (Fig. 1) and to the neodle "
(Fig. 1).
As above mentioned the needle enters the fabric exactly over the edge
of the vessels taking the thread with it, and then returns directly. The
thread remains by friction in the fabric and forms a loop which the
catch or hook ƒ forthwith seizes and takes it up. The catch or
hook with the loop turns within a certain angle till it comes beneath
the hook or catch ƒ, hereƒ³ stops whilst ƒ descends, likewise passing the
loop which by means of the small projection remains on f, being thus :
opened or widened by it. The needle then returns and makes the other
stitch passing with the thread through the loop which is widened by
both the catches or hooks and entering the hole. As soon as that has
taken placeƒ³ returns to its original position to be ready to take up the
loop formed by the return of the needle ƒ likewise returning to its
first position. The spiral spring on is intended to draw the thread to
tighten cach stitch, the expanding roller generally stretching the
thread. In order to get always the required length of thread for one
stitch the spring R (Fig. 1) presses the thread at a certain point of the
needle against a (Fig. 1) and draws a certain length of it off the bobbin.
As soon as tho stitches are made and the needle returns, R releases
the thread and the spiral spring stretches it anew. As the spiral spring
around the pin is continually stretching the thread so as to hinder its
forming a loop after the stitch and the return of the needle, R must
hold the thread at least sufficiently tight to keep the power of the spiral
spring ineffective during the forming of the loop; the spring R is regula-
ted by tho pieco B (Fig. 1). All these operations are repeated in
regular manner, thus producing an interlaced overcast stitch.