Improvements in or connected with Power Looms for Producing Broche Fabrics.
Year: 1893

page_text: Date of Application, 18th Feb., 1893
Complete Specification Left, 17th Nov., 1893-Accepted, 17th Feb., 1894
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
[Communicated from abroad by Messieurs A. GIRODON & FILS, of 8, Quai
de Retz, Lyons, France, Manufacturers.]
Improvements in or connected with Power Looms for Producing
Broche Fabrics.
I, ERNEST DE PASS, of 78, Fleet Street, in the City of London, Fellow of the
Chartered Institute of Patent Agents, do hereby declare the nature of this
'invention to be as follows:-
:-
This invention relates to a power loom or improved broché or embossing
apparátus.
This loom which is adapted for the simultaneous weaving and embossing of
fabrics, is constituted by the combination of the following elements :-(1.) A power
weaving loom of any description; (2.) one or more Jacquard, Vincenzi, Verdol, or
other like apparatus; (3.) a broché or embossing apparatus adapted to the batten of
the loom and actuated automatically by the Jacquard apparatus; and (4.) means
for rendering the ground or weft shuttle inoperative so that the broché weaving or
embossing is effected automatically by the Jacquard or other similar apparatus, by
the simple combination of the reading in, either at one or any desired number of
operations.
The broché or embossing apparatus employed may be one having circular shuttles
and may consist of a longitudinal plate furnished with two adjustable abutments
and having a slot for the reception of a pin or stud projecting from a three armed
lever hereinafter referred to; of a movable or sliding rack bar; of circular
shuttles furnished with pins or studs constituting teeth for enabling the rack to
operate them, said shuttles being capable of attachment to the longitudinal plate,
which is provided with holes for the purpose these holes also serving to enable the
shuttles to be arranged according to the pattern to be broché woven or embossed;
of dogs or pawls carried by the longitudinal plate and abutting against the rack at
each end of its movement; and of a spring bolt connected to the rack by a T bar
having a pair of pulleys, the movement of this bolt depending upon the arrangement
of the pattern to be broché woven or embossed.
This broché or embossing apparatus is applied to the front of the batten and
rests upon friction rollers mounted in supports which are capable of vertical move-
ment. The movement of the 'longitudinal plate is controlled by small projections
which bear against the face of the batten and by a slide guide secured to a cross
beam of the batten and in which works an angle piece.
u. U
The broché or embossing apparatus may be worked by the jacquard in the
following manner :-A cylinder or drum and a grooved pulley are employed, the
cylinder or drum being worked by the jacquard and transmitting motion to
the grooved pulley and also actuating two other cords one of which is connected to
one of the before mentioned dogs or pawls and the other to a spring fixed to the
framework of the loom. Around the grooved pully is also passed a cord which is
fixed at its middle to said pulley and its ends are secured to the extremities of the
spring bolt, and by means of which the rack receives its motion.
A rocking rail is situated at any convenient part of the loom and furnished near
its middle with an arm or single lever and near each of its ends with a double
lever. To the extremities of these levers are attached cords, the middle one going
to the Jacquard apparatus and the end ones, which are controlled by springs, going
to the vertically moving supports of the broché or embossing apparatus so that

page_text: when said rail is rocked by the jacquard these cords enable the broché or embossing
apparatus to be brought into or thrown out of operation. The points of attachment
of these cords can be varied according to the rise to be given to the broché or
embossing apparatus.
The before mentioned cross-beam is provided with a bracket carrying two dogs
or pawls which are mounted on the same axis but work independently of each other
and are connected by spring controlled cords to the Jacquard apparatus. The ends
of these dogs or pawls lie upon the longitudinal plate of the broché or embossing
apparatus and one of them bears against one of the adjustable abutments. To
these cords are attached other spring controlled 'cords connected to two arms of the
three armed lever which is free to rock about an axis carried by the vertically
moving supports, the third arm being furnished with a pin or stud which enters the
slot before referred to in the longitudinal plate. When the said dogs or pawls are
actuated they release the longitudinal bar which is then free to move in a rectilinear
direction by the operation of the three armed lever which is caused to rock by
the jacquard.
is
The extremities of the spring bolt are connected by cords to the Jacquard
apparatus and another cord of the Jacquard apparatus, controlled by a spring,
connected to a stud on the spring bolt, whereby the said spring bolt is caused to
move a distance equal to that performed by the broché or embossing apparatus.
The device for rendering the ground or weft shuttle inoperative during the
working of the broché or embossing apparatus may consist of a crank lever,
mounted on an axis, carried by an angle piece situated near the bottom of the
loom, to which is. articulated a. sliding bar provided with a stud for limiting its
movement and with a forked arm which engages with a grooved friction roller
mounted on an axis carried by the picking lever of the loom. The free end of the
crank lever is. connected to a spring controlled Jacquard cord by means of '
which said crank lever is operated. This device is provided at each side of
the loom.
::
Means are also provided whereby the take up motion can be controlled, from
the Jacquard apparatus so that the take up of the fabric can be stopped during the
working of the broché or embossing apparatus, or at any other desired time during-
the manufacture.
Instead of causing the broché or embossing apparatus to be automatically
actuated by the jacquard, means may be provided whereby it can be shifted by
hand by the loom attendant.
Dated this 18th day of February 1893.
1
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in or connected with Power Looms for Producing"
Broché Fabrics.
:
I, ERNEST DE PASS, of 78, Fleet Street, in the City of London, Fellow of
the Chartered Institute of Patent Agents, do hereby declare the nature of this,
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly.
described and ascertained in and by the following statement, reference being had
to the accompanying drawings and to the letters and figures marked thereon, that
is to say:-
This invention relates to a power loom or improved broché, figure' weaving, or
embossing apparatus.
This loom is constituted by the combination of :-
(1.) A power weaving loom of any. description.
(2.) One or more Jacquard, Vincenzi, or Verdol apparatus, or other equivalent
System.

page_text: (3.) A broché apparatus adapted to the batten of the loom, and actuated auto-
matically by the Jacquard apparatus, by the simple combination of the reading in
at one or any number of operations, odd or even, as desired, and,
(4.) An arrangement for stopping the ground or weft shuttle.
And in order that the invention may be readily understood, I will describe the
same fully with reference to the annexed drawings, which show a power loom
constructed in accordance therewith.
Fig. 1 is a longitudinal elevation, and Fig. 2 a side view, of the entire loom.
Fig. 3 is a plan, and Fig. 4 a side view, of the circular shuttle.
Fig. 5 is a transverse section of the broché, figure weaving, or embossing
apparatus.
Fig. 6 is a plan of the guide and angle piece.
Fig. 7 is a partial face view of the broché, figure weaving, or embossing
apparatus.
Fig. 8 is a partial transverse section on the line X, X, of Fig. 1.
Fig. 9 is a front view, on a larger scale, of a portion of the machine.
The loom shown in the drawings is one in which the shuttle is thrown by means
of a sword.
The broché, figure weaving, or embossing apparatus indicated is one having
circular shuttles; it consists of (Figs. 1, 2, 7, and 9) :-
:-
An iron plate P, having at one of its ends two abutments 1, carried at its upper
part and a vertical portion 2 in which is formed a slot to receive a pin or stud 3.
The abutments 1 are movable, that is to say their distance, or separation, can be
varied.
A rack R, in the form of a flat bar, arranged to slide parallely with the fabric
and against the plate P.
Circular shuttles N fixed to the lower part of the plate P which, for this
purpose, is formed with a series of holes to permit of these shuttles being
or embossed. The
arranged according to the pattern to be broché woven
movable portion of the shuttles N carries four pins 4, constituting as many
teeth, by means of which the shuttles are moved by the rack R.
Two dogs or pawls C fixed to the plate P and abutting against the rack at
each end of the travel.
A round spring-bolt V fixed on the said rack R, by a T-shaped piece F
carrying two small grooved pulleys; the travel of this bolt depending upon the
arrangement of the pattern to be in broché.
The broché or embossing apparatus is applied to the front face of the batten
or. slay of the loom and rests by its two. ends upon the friction rollers G of the
supports I which form slide guides.
These supports I, which are fixed against two small wooden uprights, connected
to the batten, are so arranged as to be capable of sliding vertically; for this
purpose they terminate at their upper part in a rod J which slides in two
guides.
:
The plate P is guided lengthwise by small projections which bear against the
face of the batten, and by a slide guide K in which an angle piece E fixed to
the plate, works. The guide K is screwed to a wooden beam A connecting the
two small uprights fixed to the batten; its length must be such that the travel
of the angle piece E shall be equal to that of the bolt V.
The broché, figure weaving, or embossing apparatus is worked by the jacquard
by means of the following parts :-
Above the loom and below the jacquard (see Figs. 1, 2, and 8) are arranged,
by means of two cross beams D, a cylinder or drum T and grooved pully.Q
keyed upon an axis turning freely in its bearings. A cord 5, composed of some
material which is unaffected by variations in temperature, or by hydrogrometrics
of the air, is attached, by each of its ends, to a hook of the Jacquard apparatus,
and partially surrounds the cylinder or drum T, to which it is secured at its
middle, so as to. ensure the same pull on the two ends of the cord. To each of

page_text: "
these ends two cords 6 and 7 are attached; the one 6 being connected to one
of the dogs or pawls C, and the other 7 being controlled by a spiral spring 8
fixed to the framework of the loom:
The pulley Q is surrounded by a cord 9 fixed at its middle to the lower part of
this pulley, and its halves, after passing over two small guide rollers, arranged for
the purpose, are secured at their ends to the extremities of the bolt V.
A rail B, mounted on two gudgeons, is suspended from the cross bars D; by
wooden uprights, and this rail, which can rock on its gudgeons, carries at its middle
an arm or simple. lever L, and near each of its ends a double lever O. At the
extremity of the lever L, is attached a cord 10, which is connected to one of the
hooks of the Jacquard apparatus, and to each of the levers O are attached two
cords 11 and 12, one to each end, the cords 11 being connected to the rods J of
the supports I of the broché apparatus, and the cords 12 to the spiral springs 13
fixed to the framework of the loom.
1
The points of attachment of the cords to the levers L and O vary, that is to say
they are situated nearer to or further from the rail B according to the rise to be
given to the broché apparatus.
Two dogs or pawls 14 (see Fig. 1), independent of each other, but mounted upon
the same axis which is carried by the bracket fixed to the cross beam A of the
batten, are connected directly to the Jacquard apparatus by two cords 15 and 16,"
each of which is attached to a hook thereof. The ends of these dogs or pawls
bear upon the plate P of the broché apparatus and one of them bears against one
of the abutments 1.
Two other cords 17 and 18 have each one of their extremities attached
respectively to one of the before mentioned cords 15 and 16 and the other
extremities to the two arms of a T-piece H which is free to rock about an axis: 19
carried by the rod J on one of the supports I. The cords 15, 16, 17 and 18 are
each provided with a spiral spring interposed in their length. The third arm of
the T-piece H carries a pin or stud which lies in a slot formed in the vertical
portion 2 of the plate P.
The bolt V has its extremities connected directly to two hooks of the Jacquard
apparatus by means of cords 20; a third cord 21, controlled by a spiral spring
and also coming from the Jacquard apparatus, is attached to a stud on the bolt.
The arrangement which enables the ground or weft shuttle to be stopped consists
(see Figs. 1 and 2) of the following parts, niz. :—
An angle piece U carrying an axis 22 upon which rocks a cranked lever X.
A bar. Y, articulated to one of the extremities of the lever X and carried by
two guide supports in which it slides. This bar carries a stud 23 which, by
striking against the angle piece U, limits the movement of said bar. This bar is
also provided with a forked arm 24.
A friction roller S, on the throwing lever Z so arranged as to be capable of
shifting upon its axis, and formed with a groove for enabling the arm 24 to
actuate it.
A cord 25, controlled by a spiral spring interposed in its length which
connects the free arm of the cranked lever X to one of the hooks of the Jacquard
apparatus.
This arrangement is provided on each side of the loom.
Furthermore, the dog or lever W, which controls the advance of the regulator,
that is to say the take up motion for the fabric, is connected by a cord 27 to one
of the hooks of the Jacquard apparatus, thus enabling the take-up to be stopped
while the broché apparatus is working, and in any case, according to the
requirements of manufacture.

page_text: levers O, controlled by the springs 13, draw the cords 11 and keep the broché
apparatus raised.
In this position the rack R, pulley Q, and drum T are stopped at one end of
their travel; the extremities of the cord 5 are loose and controlled only by the
spiral springs 8, the cords 6 are also loose, and the dogs or pawls C are lowered,
but only one of them abuts against the rack R.
The cords 20, 21, 15, 16, 17, 18, 25 and 27 which work the bolt of the broché
apparatus, and the pieces H and W, are also without tension.
At the moment that the broché apparatus comes into operation the cord 10,
which is pulled by the hook of the Jacquard apparatus to which it is attached,
causes the rail B to rock by means of the lever L, and to therefore allow the
supports I and the broché apparatus to descend; then that end of the cord 5 which
is in communication with the dog which abuts against the rack R, is pulled by its
hook, first raises the dog by means of the cord 6, and then causes the pulley Q to
turn to the right or to the left, according to the end of the cord actuated; the
pulley in its turn communicates to the rack R, through the intervention of the
cord 9; a rectilinear movement in the direction of the dog that was just raised.
The rack by effecting this movement, gives a revolution to the shuttles and thus
causes them to pass under the warp threads raised by the Jacquard apparatus.
When the rack has reached the end of its travel, the dog C, which had not yet
come into operation, falls into a notch and abuts, in its turn; against the rack.
As soon as all these movements have taken place, the hook of cord 10 falls, the
broché apparatus rises under the action of the spiral springs 13, and the batten
beats up the fabric.
Whilst the broché apparatus falls into its working position, that cord 25 of the
stopping mechanism of the ground or weft shuttle, which corresponds to the side
where the shuttle is for the time being, or the cords of both the stopping
mechanisms at once, pulled by the Jacquard apparatus, cause the crank lever X to
rock in the direction of the arrow (Fig. 1), and this lever, by means of the bar Y,
throws the friction roller S out of engagement with the cam M; that is to say this
roller comes into contact with the cylindrical portion of the cam.
At the following stroke or operation, if the broché apparatus is to continue
working, the same movements will be performed, but this time the other end of the
cord
will be pulled by its hook, and the rack R will be shifted in the opposite
direction. But if the broché apparatus is to discontinue working, it will remain in
its raised position; the hook of cord 25 will fall, and the bar Y, under the action.
of the spring 26, will bring back the friction roller S into engagement with the
: cam M, and the ground or weft shuttle will continue working until the broché
apparatus is again lowered.
The stoppage of the winding of the fabric during the working of the broché
apparatus, or, if necessary, at any other time during the weaving, is effected in the
following manner :-
The cord 27, pulled by the Jacquard apparatus, raises the lever W or retaining
pawl of the take-up, which, although still continuing to be worked by its driving
pawl; returns each time to its starting point.
. When the patterns to be broché woven are not all repeated in the same
longitudinal lines, as for instance when they are arranged in quincunx, the broché
apparatus must work in two different positions, and therefore be shifted or displaced
for each row of patterns.
This displacement is effected for a distance equal to the interval between two
rows of patterns; and automatically through the intervention of the Jacquard, or
other apparatus.
One of the cords 15 or 16, being pulled by the hook of the Jacquard apparatus
to which it is attached, will first raise the corresponding dog 14, which_abuts
against the broché apparatus, it will then pull one of the arms of the lever H, and
cause it to rock about its axis 19,.and said lever will communicate a longitudinal

page_text: movement to the plate P, either to the right or to the left according to the cord
pulled, and will thus bring the angle piece E against the guide K. That one of
the dogs 14, which has not been raised, will now have passed over the abutment
corresponding to it and will therefore prevent any backward movement of the
broché apparatus.
During this shifting, the cord 21, pulled by the Jacquard apparatus, causes the
stud of the bolt V to leave its retaining notch, then one of the cords 20, pulled, in
its turn, by the Jacquard apparatus, causes this stud to move a distance equal to
that performed by the broché apparatus; at this moment the said stud being no
longer controlled by the cord 21 enters into the other retaining notch under the
influence of the bolt spring. This shifting of the bolt V is for the purpose of
maintaining an equal tension on the ends of the cord 5.
In practice, instead of effecting the automatic displacement of the broché
apparatus by the jacquard, it is preferable (especially when the arrangement of the
patterns to be broché woven is more complicated) that the loom attendant should
do it by hand. In this case the whole of the cords, which effect this displacement
by the jacquard, is dispensed with. The plate P (see Fig. 7) is furnished with a
handle 28, and is formed near one of its extremities with notches or teeth 29, and
the support I corresponding to this extremity instead of carrying a friction roller
is provided with a small axis 30, upon which the said extremity of the plate P
rests, and which is caught between two notches or teeth. These notches or teeth
are so spaced that the travel of the bolt V corresponds to the distance between a
certain number of the said teeth.
To shift the broché apparatus, the attendant raises it by means of the handle 28
and moves it to the right, or to the left, as required, by sliding it in the supports I
for a distance equal to the movement of the bolt V, and he then transfers the stud
into another notch.
It will be understood that in this case the arrangement of the pattern to be
broché woven may be varied at will by substituting for the bolt V another having
for the purpose a greater number of notches, that is to say one capable of per-
forming several travels, all of which are equal to the distance between a certain
number of the teeth 29.
It will be seen that the arrangement for stopping the ground or weft shuttle
which is situated at each side of the loom, enables this shuttle to be stopped
indifferently on either side, thus allowing the broché weaving to be effected at a
single operation, or at any number of operations, odd or even.
The loom herein described is a single shuttle one, but the general arrangement and
the working would be the same for a loom having two or a greater number of shuttles;
and instead of working it by a sword it may be provided with any other system of
picking for the ground or weft shuttle, or shuttles, and for this purpose the arrange-
ment for stopping the shuttle may be modified so as to adapt it to the mode of
picking employed.
The loom may also be provided with one or more shuttles, and such systems of
Jacquard apparatus or broché apparatus may be applied thereto as may be considered
suitable. Likewise, any device for throwing the shuttles may be employed, by
adapting the arrangement for stopping them, to the mode of throwing employed.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of this inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
The general arrangement hereinbefore described and constituting a power loom
for the simultaneous weaving and figure or broché weaving of fabrics, consisting in
the combination of any kind of power weaving loom, of one or more Jacquard,
Vincenzi, Verdol, or other like apparatus, of a broché apparatus adapted to the
batten or slay of the loom and actuated automatically by the Jacquard apparatus,
and of means for stopping the ground or weft shuttle, so that the broché or figure

page_text: weaving, whatever be the pattern, is effected automatically by means of a Jacquard
or other similar apparatus, by the simple combination of the reading in at one or
any number of operations, odd or even, as desired; substantially as set forth.
Dated this 17th day of November 1893.
ERNEST DE PASS.