AN IMPROVED MANUFACTURE OF LACE
Year: 1874

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Thomas James Smith, of the Firm of Robertson,
:
Brooman, and Company, of 166, Fleet Street, in the City of
London, Patent Agents, for the Invention of "AN IMPROVED
MANUFACTURE OF LACE."-A communication from abroad by the
Company or Society Desiré Sival Frères, of Lyons, in the Republic.
of France, Manufacturers.
Sealed the 16th October 1874, and dated the 4th May 1874.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Thomas James Smith
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition,
on the 4th May 1874.
I, THOMAS JAMES SMITH, of the Firm of Robertson, Brooman, and
Company, of 166, Fleet Street, in the City of London, Patent Agents,
do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "AN IMPROVED
MANUFACTURE OF LACE," to be as follows:-
The object of this Invention is to utilize generally in the manufacture
of lace the foundation known by the name of "gauze bottom" (" fond

page_text: de gaze"). This kind of net has only hitherto been employed for
single and designless meshed tissues, such as gauzes, tulles for head
dresses, bonnets, dress linings, mosquito nets, and other very common
articles having no connection with lace. It is this gauze bottom which
the present Inventors have conceived the idea of combining and uniting
with lace bottoms or nets with the object of obtaining the designs and
ornamentation which decorate the richest descriptions of lace. They
have thus taken advantage, under completely new conditions, of a kind
of foundation which is capable of being produced with a great fineness,
and which imitates perfectly Alençon or needle point, which is the
most refined of all kinds of point lace.
This new application of gauze bottom to lace, that is to say, its com-
bination with the effects in lace bottom or net is effected mechanically
by the use of various processes executed upon lace machines, more
especially those known as Leaver's machines. These processes are
chiefly characterized by the modes of collecting the threads comprising
passages with twists or simple crossings, either by the aid of supple-
mentary threads working upon the gauze bottom, or by the aid of
threads themselves which form the latter.
It would be impossible to indicate here all the variations which can
be produced by this combination of gauze bottom with lace bottoms and
nets, but several examples will be presently shown by the aid of the
annexed Drawings, which will enable the nature of the Invention to be.
well understood. In the Figures, for the sake of clearness, the bobbin
threads are shown in blue ink and the warp threads in red ink, while
the lines in black ink represent the supplementary threads which, in
some instances, are employed to form the designs.
Example No. 1, Figure 1.--The foundation shown in this Diagram is
made in 8 motions with a single fine bar having as guides all the
bobbins. The black thread forming the design or lace bottom is a
supplementary warp thread led by a first bar, that is to say, placed
before the bar of the foundation threads. The independent bar effects
a more or less great traverse according to the requirements of the
design at each demi-mesh, or otherwise expressed at every fourth
motion.

page_text: Example No. 2, Figure 2.--This Diagram shows a foundation also,
made in 6 motions. In order to obtain the lace bottom two supple-
mentary threads are required, instead of one; one of these threads is
the first and the other the last of all. The foundation is made with a
bar having as guides all the bobbins. In order to enable it to be well
understood that the number of supplementary threads can be increased
at pleasure two additional threads are caused to enter in the middle of
the progress of the design.
Example No. 3, Figure 3.-This Diagram shows a foundation pro-
duced with all the bars independent, that is to say, with bars which
have guides placed at greater or less intervals, according to the width
to be given to the design. These bars having a roller apiece can vary
their work, consequently a less number of twists are given in the part
of the lace bottom in the part of the foundation.
Example No. 4, Figure 4.-This Diagram is similar to the preceding,
except that the number of crossings of the thread making the design.
are doubled in cach mesh.
Example No. 5.-The foundation of this Diagram is made with 6
motions, like that in the example No. 2, only instead of two supple-
mentary threads there is only one to make the lace bottom.
Example No. 6. The foundation of this Diagram is similar to that in
the example No. 1 with the exception of the number of crossings, which
is augmented, since one more is made which passes to the middle of 4
twists. This additional crossing can also be added to the examples
No. 2 and No. 5.
Example Diagram No. 7, Figures 7 and 8.-Figure 7 shows the work,
and Figure 8, the result. This example differs entirely from the 6 others.
There is always the same foundation, but the design instead of being a
lace bottom is a purl net, which forms a continuation, as it were,
to the foundation, instead of being superposed on it. The distinctive
characteristic of this arrangement is, that it does not require any
supplementary thread since the net of the ornament is effected by the
aid of the three threads which have made the foundation and which are
momentarily detained from their functions. In this net replacing the
lace bottom. the rings or purls are alternately produced by the bobbin

page_text: threads (see at a), and by the warp threads (see at 6). In the two
cases the threads contributing to the formation of the ring are fixed
by straight threads which pass sometimes above and sometimes below..
The example given here comprises one purl per mesh; one could
draw in the net and put two purls or more per mesh. The same net
could be obtained with the addition of supplementary threads giving
warp threads to 1 bobbin thread.
3
The examples above given can be infinitely varied; in each of them
the ornaments or designs in lace bottom or in net should be by a strong
thread sewn on after the manufacture.
The lace thus manufactured in length upon the machine must be
turned or drawn to "90°" in order that the gauze bottom may present
the aspect of true needle point or Alençon point lace.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
:
filed by the said Thomas James Smith in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 3rd November 1874.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, THOMAS
JAMES SMITH, of the Firm of Robertson, Brooman, and Company, of
166, Fleet Street, in the City of London, Patent Agents, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Fourth day of May, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-four, in the thirty-
seventh year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give
and grant unto me, the said Thomas James Smith, Her special licence
that I, the said Thomas James Smith, my executors, administrators,
and assigns,, or such others as I, the said Thomas James Smith, my
executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with,
and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the
term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise,
and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland,
the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "AN IMPROVED
MANUFACTURE OF LACE," communicated to me from abroad by the Com-

page_text: pany or Society Desiré Sival Frères, of Lyons, in the Republic of
France, Manufacturers, upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the
said Thomas James Smith, my executors or administrators, by an
instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and
seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the
said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and
cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six
calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters
Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Thomas James Smith, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same
is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement thereof, that is to say :-
"
The object of this Invention is to utilize generally in the manufacturo
of lace the foundation known by the name of " gauze bottom (fond
de gaze). This kind of net has only hitherto been employed for singlo
and designless meshed tissues, such as gauzes, tulles for head dresses,
bonnets, dress linings, mosquito nets, and other very common articles.
having no connection with lace. It is this gauze bottom which the
present Inventors have conceived the idea of combining and uniting
with lace bottoms or nets with the object of obtaining the designs and
ornamentation which decorate the richest descriptions of lace. They have
thus taken advantage, under completely new conditions, of a kind of
foundation which is capable of being produced with a great fineness,
and which imitates perfectly Alençon or needle point, which is the most
refined of all kinds of point lace.
This new application of gauze bottom to lace, that is to say, its com-
bination with the effects in lace bottom or net is effected mechanically.
by the use of various processes executed upon lace machines, more
especially those known as Leaver's machines. These processes are
chiefly characterized by the modes of collecting the threads comprising
passages with twists or simple crossings, either by the aid of supple-
mentary threads working upon the gauze bottom, or by the aid of threads
themselves which form the latter.
It would be impossible to indicate here all the variations which can
be produced by this combination of gauze bottom with lace bottoms

page_text: and nets, but several examples will be presently shown by the aid of
the annexed Drawings, which will enable the nature of the Invention
to be well understood.
In the Figures, for the sake of clearness, the bobbin threads are
shown in blue ink, and indicated ^, and the warp threads in red ink,
indicated thus O, while the lines in black ink represent the supple-
mentary threads, which, in some instances, are employed to form the
designs.
Example No. 1, Figure 1.-The foundation shown in this Diagram is
made in 8 motions with a single fine bar having as guides all the
bobbins. The black thread forming the design or lace bottom is a
supplementary warp thread led by a first bar, that is to say, placed
before the bar of the foundation threads. This independent bar effects
a more or less great traverse, according to the requirements of the
design at each demi-mesh, or otherwise expressed at every fourth
motion.
Example No. 2, Figure 2.-This Diagram shows a foundation made in
· 6 motions. In order to obtain the lace bottom two supplementary threads
are required instead of one; one of these threads is the first, and the
other the last of all. The foundation is made with a bar having as 2
guides all the bobbins. In order to enable it to be well understood that
the number of supplementary threads can be increased at pleasure two
additional threads are caused to enter in the middle of the progress of
the design.
Example No. 3, Figure 3.-This Diagram shows a foundation pro- 2
duced with all the bars independent, that is to say, with bars which
have guides placed at greater or less intervals, according to the width.
to be given to the design. These bars having a roller apiece can vary
their work, consequently a less number of twists are given in the part
of the lace bottom than in the part of the foundation.
Example No. 4, Figure 4.-This Diagram is similar to the preceding,
except that the number of crossings of the threads making the design
are doubled in each mesh.
3
Example No. 5.-The foundation of this Diagram is made with 6
motions, like that in the example No. 2, only instead of two supple- 3
mentary threads there is only one to make the lace bottom.

page_text: Example No. 6.-The foundation of this Diagram is similar to that
in the example No. 1, with the exception of the number of crossings,
which is augmented, since one more is made which passes to the middle
of 4 twists. This additional crossing can also be added to the examples
No. 2 and No. 5.
Example Diagram No. 7, Figures 7 and 8.-Figure 7 shows the
work, and Figure 8 the result. This example differs entirely from the
6 others. There is always the same foundation, but the design, instead
of being a lace bottom is a purl net, which forms a continuation, as
it were, of the foundation, instead of being superposed on it. The
distinctive characteristic of this arrangement is, that it does not require
any supplementary thread, since the net of the ornament is effected by
the aid of the three threads which have made the foundation and which
are momentarily detained from their functions. In this net replacing
the lace bottom the rings or purls are alternately produced by the
bobbin threads (see at a) and by the warp threads (see at 6). In the
two cases the threads contributing to the formation of the ring are
fixed by straight threads which pass sometimes above and sometimes
below. The example given here comprises one purl per mesh; one
could draw in the net and put two purls or more per mesh. The same
net could be obtained with the addition of supplementary threads giving
3 warp threads to 1 bobbin thread.
The examples above given can be infinitely varied; in each of them
the ornaments or designs in lace bottom or in net should be by a strong
thread sewn on after the manufacture.
The lace thus manufactured in length upon the machine must be
turned or drawn to 90°, in order that the gauze bottom may present the
aspect of true needle point or Alençon point lace.
And having now described the nature of the said Invention, and in
what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that I claim,-
Firstly. The use of gauze bottom as a foundation for lace in com.
bination with lace bottoms and nets, as herein-before described, or any
mere modification thereof.
Secondly. The methods of effecting the above combination as herein.
before described, by the use of lace machines, and especially in those
lace machines known as Leavers.

page_text: Thirdly. The manufacture of fabrics obtained by the combination of
gauze bottom with lace, as herein-before explained and as illustrated in
the accompanying Drawings.
In witness whereof, I, the said Thomas James Smith, have here-
unto set my hand and seal, this Thirty-first day of October One
thousand eight hundred and seventy-four.