IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTICLES OF JEWELLERY, & IN APPARATUS FOR THE SAME
Year: 1860

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Clark, of 53, Chancery Lane, in the
County of Middlesex, Engineer & Patent Agent, for the Invention of
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTICLES OF JEWELLERY, & IN
APPARATUS FOR THE SAME."-A communication from abroad by Messrs.
Jean Louis Antoine Marie Bouret & Charles Theophile Ferré, of Paris,'
Engravers & Stampers.
Sealed the 9th April 1861, and dated the 20th October 1860.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Clark at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
20th October 1860.
I, WILLIAM CLARK, of 53, Chancery Lane, in the County of Middlesex,
Engineer & Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention
for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTICLES OF JEWELLERY, & IN
APPARATUS FOR THE SAME," to be as follows:-
This Invention relates to the novel application of machinery in the manu-.
facture of bezils or setting for mounting stones for jewelry. These bezils are
employed for eardrops, ornaments, and other articles of jewelry. Hitherto the
different parts of jewelry have been made by hand and soldered together, which
requires much labour. By means of this Invention these parts are obtained of
different thicknesses by cutting, stamping, and shaping them in different
'

page_text: manners, and which is effected by means of an ordinary stamping press. The
combinations of cutting, stamping, and shaping may be infinitely varied, a few
examples of which will be sufficient to illustrate this new mode of manufacture,
and serve as specimens or types for other products to be obtained by simple
modifications of the matrix and stamping punch.
In the annexed Drawing is represented the apparatus by the aid of which
the principal kinds of bezils, rings, & other articles may be manufactured.
Fig. 1 show an ordinary press for stamping or cutting; Fig. 2, a plan of the
matrix of a cutter; Fig. 3, an elevation of the same; Fig. 4 shows an elevation
of the punch of the cutter; Fig. 5, a plan of the same; Fig. 6 shows an iron
socket piece, in which is placed the matrix for stamping; Fig. 7 shows a
section of the stamping matrix; while Fig. 8 is an elevation of the counter-
punch. These Figures represent the machine serving to manufacture one
form or specimen of setting.
The following is the method of operating-The matrix of the cutter,
Figs. 2 & 3, is. placed at a, Fig: 1, and firmly fixed by means of two
gripping parts b, b, fixed in c by means of a dovetail joint. Supposing
the whole suitably adjusted, and a strip of copper, gold, or silver introduced
in space d, on pressure being exerted the strip will be cut in the form
of a star, as represented at Fig. 2, by the first punch e, while by suitably
advancing the metallic strip a second cutting is obtained of the same form
but of larger size by the aid of punch f, so as to obtain a product pre-
senting the form of a hollow star, which falls through the hole g into drawer h.
This operation constitutes the preliminary shaping, which is always effected in
the same way. To stamp the part just cut, the matrix, Fig. 7, is placed in
the socket piece, Fig. 6, which is to serve as a guide for the punch; the socket
piece is then placed under the stamping punch, which is fixed in the press at c,
where the cutting punch was before placed; the punch is then struck on the
matrix, the cut part being previously deposited there, by which means the
points of the star-shaped piece of metal are turned up or raised, and form
the bezil represented at Fig. 8bls.
:
The apparatus for producing the second form or pattern is represented at
Figs. 9, 10, 11 & 12; the cutting is effected as before, only the stamping
punch, Figs. 11 & 12, and the matrix, Figs. 9 & 10, are disposed in such a
way as to turn in the claws or grippers, and leave the outside as represented
at Fig. 12.
The apparatus for producing a third pattern or type is represented at
Figs. 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, &, 17bis. The cutting is effected by means of the
cutter, Figs. 13 & 14, producing the ring of metal, Fig. 17, which, when

page_text: stamped with the punch and inatrix, Figs. 15 & 17, forms the support or
mounting represented at Fig. 16.
The following design requires more complicated apparatus, several operations
being necessary for its manufacture. The first operation consists of cutting or
shaping by means of the punch & matrix, Figs. 18 & 19; this operation
effected the cut metal is deposited on a matrix, Fig. 20, and stamped without
using the punch by simply letting the press strike the piece of metal. The
metal is then placed under the cutter, Figs. 18 & 19, so as to turn it; the cut,
piece of metal is placed exactly under the punch on a plate of iron, Fig. 21,
at j, and then introduced in the opening d, d, Fig. 3; the two cars, i, i, forming
a mark to determine its exact position; a second cutting is then proceeded
with by means of apparatus, Figs. 22 & 23, which remove the round parts
k, k, k, Fig. 20; the parts 1, 1, Fig. 20, are then stamped out by means of
punches, Figs. 24 & 25; this latter necessitates two operations as seen, only
three openings being made at one time, the other three are made by turning
the cut piece of metal round. The last operation consists in turning up or
shaping this piece of metal, which is effected by hand by means of the parts,
Fig. 20; the punch m is struck and the points of the piece of metal enter the
spaces shown in the matrix. The part when finished is represented 'at
Fig. 26bs
The following pattern is obtained in the same manner:-First, by using
the tool, Fig. 27, then cutting with the tools, Figs. 28 & 29, then -effecting
a second interior cutting with tools, Figs. 30 & 31, afterwards stamping with
those of Figs. 32 & 33, and turning up or shaping with the tools, Figs. 34
& 35, by which means a claw is obtained the points of which are raised, and as
represented at Fig. 35b
To manufacture rings I operate in an analogous manner; the preliminary
cutting is made, with the tools, Figs. 36 & 37, so as to obtain a cut part, as
seen as Fig. 38. I first stamp on a matrix the design I wish to obtain as at
Fig. 39; I then suitably shape it with the cutter, Figs. 40 & 41; a second
shaping is at times effected when there are parts to be hollowed out; the ring'
is then made circular by placing it on a half cylinder of boxwood and striking
it with a cylindrical wooden hammer or mallet. The "chevalier ring is
made in the same way; the metallic strip is cut with the tools, Figs. 42 & 43,
and then turned up between the two parts n & o of the tool, Figs. 44 & 45,
after which a cutting is operated by means of a tool of the same form as the
ring which removes the edges.
When a stone is to be placed in the bezil a third cutting is made in the
centre of the ring of the form of the stone, which is then centred as above

page_text: stated. The rings with several claws or grippers are made in two similar
pieces, which are stamped separately by the aid of tools, Figs. 46 & 47; and
which are shaped or cut with the tool, Fig. 48; the two parts are then soldered
together, their whole length thus producing a ring with several claws or
grippers.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by William Clark in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 19th April
1861
2.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, WILLIAM.
CLARK, of 53, Chancery Lane, in the County of Middlesex, Engineer and
Patent Agent, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twentieth day of October, in the year of our Lord.
One thousand eight hundred and sixty, in the twenty-fourth year of Her.
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me,
the said William Clark, Her special licence that I, the said William
Clark, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the
said William Clark, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should
at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times.
thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make,.
use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and
Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTICLES OF JEWELLERY, AND IN APPARATUS FOR
THE SAME, a communication from Messrs. Jean Louis Antoine Marie Bouret
and Charles Théophile Ferré, of Paris, Engravers and Stampers, upon the,
condition (amongst others) that I, the said William Clark, my executors or
administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of their
hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the
said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause
the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar
months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
"
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said William Clark, do hereby declare
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the fol-
lowing statement, reference being had to the Sheet of Drawings hereunto
annexed, and to the letters and figures marked thereon, that is to say:―
་

page_text: is fixed in the press at c, where the cutting punch was before placed. The
punch is, then struck on the matrix, the cut part being previously deposited
therein, by which means the points of the star-shaped piece of metal are
turned up or raised, and form the bezil.represented at Fig. 8bis
The apparatus for producing the second form or pattern is represented at
Figs. 9, 10, 11, and 12; the cutting is effected as before, except that. the
stamping punch, Figs. 11 and 12, and the matrix 9 & 10, are disposed in
such a way as to turn in the claws or grippers and leave the outside, as
represented at Fig. 12.
The apparatus for producing a third pattern or type is represented at
Figs. 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, and 17. The cutting is effected by means of the
cutter, Figs. 13 & 14, producing tho. ring of. 'metal, Fig. 17, which when
stamped with the punch and the matrix, Figs. 15 & 17, forms the mounting
or setting represented at Fig. 16...
The following design requires more complicated apparatus, several opera-
tions being necessary for its manufacture. The first operation consists of
cutting or shaping by means of the punch and matrix, Figs. 18 & 19; this
operation effected, the cut metal is deposited on a matrix, Fig. 20, and stamped
without a punch, simply by the pressure face of the press striking the piece of
metal. The metal is then placed under the cutter, Figs. 18 & 19, so as to
trim it. The.cut piece of metal is placed exactly. under the punch on a plate
of iron, Fig. 21, at j, and then introduced in the opening d, d, see Fig. 3, the
two ears i, i, forming a register or mark to determine its exact position. A
second cutting is then proceeded with by means of apparatus, Figs. 22 & 23,
which remove the round parts k, k, k, Fig. 20; the parts 1, 1, Fig. 20, are
then stamped out by means of punches, Figs. 24 & 25. This latter necessitates
two operations, as seen, only three openings being made at one time, the other
three are made by turning the cut piece of metal round. The last operation
consists in turning up or shaping this piece of metal, which is effected by hand
by means of the parts, Fig. 26; the punch m is struck and the points of the
piece of metal enter the spaces shown in the matrix. The part when finished
is represented at Fig. 26bis.
The following pattern is obtained in the same manner, first, by using the
tool, Fig. 27, then. cutting with the tools, Figs. 28 & 29, then effecting a
second interior cutting. with tools, Figs. 30 & 31, afterwards stamping with
those of Figs. 32 & 33, & turning up or shaping with the tools, Figs. 34 & 35,
by which means a claw setting is obtained, the points of which are raised as
represented at Fig. 35.
To manufacture rings I operate in a similar manner; the preliminary cutting

page_text: is made with the tools Figs. 36 & 37, so as to obtain a cut part as seen at
Fig. 88. First I stamp on a matrix a design I wish to obtain, as at Fig. 39;
I then suitably shape it with the cutter, Figs. 40 & 41; a second shaping is
at times effected when there are parts to be hollowed out. The ring is then
made circular by placing it on half cylinders of boxwood, and striking it with a
cylindrical wooden hammer or mallet. The chevalier ring is made in the
same way; the metallic strip is cut with the tools, Figs. 42 & 43, then turned
up between the two parts n & o of the tool, Figs. 44 & 45, after which a
cutting is operated by means of a tool of the same form as the ring, which
removes the edges.
When a stone is to be placed in the bezil or setting a third cutting is
made in the centre of the ring of the form of the stone which is then
centred, as above stated, and a solid chevalier ring is obtained, as represented
at Fig. 45. The rings with several claws or grippers are made of two
similar pieces, which are stamped separately by the aid of tools, Figs. 46 & 47,
and which are shaped or cut with the tools, Fig. 48; the two parts are then
soldered together, their whole length thus producing a ring with several claws
or grippers.
Having described the nature of this Invention, and the manner of per-
forming the same, I declare that what I claim as the Invention to be
protected by the herein-before in part recited Letters Patent is, the different
methods of operating above described in the manufacture of jewellery by the
combination of which I obtain bezils & settings of various kinds and designs.
adapted for fancy chevalier and other rings & articles, all of which articles,
whether of gold, silver, or metal, are struck in the solid of any thickness
whatever I also claim the apparatus herein described as applied for such
purposes.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Clark, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Nineteenth day of April, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-one.