IMPROVEMENTS IN LOOMS FOR WEAVING
Year: 1880

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to John Henry Brierley, of 58, Aldermanbury, London, in the
County of Middlesex, Manufacturer of Elastic Fabrics, for an Invention of
"IMPROVEMENTS IN LOOMS FOR WEAVING."
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said John Henry Brierley at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 1st June 1880.
JOHN HENRY BRIERLEY, of 58, Aldermanbury, London, in the County of
Middlesex, Manufacturer of Elastic Fabrics. "IMPROVEMENTS IN LOOMS FOR
WEAVING."
The class of loom to which this Invention relates is such as are employed in the
weaving of web for braces, and the object is to so construct such looms as that at
pre-determined intervals of the length of web there shall be woven or formed a
button hole having perfect selvages, and so dispensing with the stitching or
working" the holes for the buttons as heretofore.
Looms constructed laccording to this my said Invention comprise, for the
weaving of each web, two shuttles, arranged one over the other (after the manner
of the ribbon loom), and working across or in opposite directions to each other.
The healds are so operated upon by means of the treadle having and working
from two centres or fulcrums that when the button hole is to be woven the warp
composing the body or breadth of the web is divided into two equal parts, one
being raised above the other, the upper half forming a shed for the passage of the
upper shuttle, the lower half forming a shed for the passage of the bottom
shuttle.
So soon as a sufficient length of these narrower portions have been woven to
form the length of the button hole the treadle levers are again brought into action
on the outer fulcrum, whereon the weaving of the next succeeding length of the
body of the web proceeds as before.
The treadles are worked by tappet at the ends thereof, and are changed from
one fulcrum to the other by means of a crank lever and pawl operating on catch
wheels, gear, and discs, the latter operating levers, one of which lowers, the other
raising cross bars forming the other or shorter fulcrums, such change mechanism

page_text: being under control of a worm and wheel, so as to be brought into action at
intervals, that is to say, when and so often as a sufficient length of web has been
woven, and it will be understood that whereas in the weaving of the body of the
web both shuttles are crossing its breadth double weft is used, but in the weaving
the button hole the separate sheds have their own shuttle, consequently the weft
is single thus the material in which the button hole is formed is lighter and more
pliable, facilitating the passage of the button without weakening the braces," as
the strain and wear is only on the lower part of the hole or loop where the weft
becomes again double.
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The stave controlling one half of the healds and the stave controlling the other
half are together one over the other during the weaving of the fabric or web; so
soon as the weaving of the button holes commences the staves separate such a distance
as to form the two distinct sheds as above described.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said John Henry Brierley in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 1st
December 1880.
JOHN HENRY BRIERLEY, of 58, Aldermanbury, London, in the County of
Middlesex, Manufacturer of Elastic Fabrics. "IMPROVEMENTS IN LOOMS FOR
WEAVING."
The class of loom to which this Invention relates is such as are employed in the
weaving of web for braces, and the object is to so construct such looms as that at
predetermined invertals of the length of the web there shall be woven or formed a
button hole, or any other description of hole, or slit, having perfect selvages, and
so dispensing with the stitching or working the holes for the buttons as
heretofore.
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22
Looms constructed according to this my said Invention comprise, for the weaving
of each web, two shuttles, arranged one over the other (after the manner of the
ribbon loom), and working across or in opposite directions to each other. The
healds are so operated upon by means of the treadles having and working from two
centres or fulcrums that when the button hole is to be woven the warp composing
the body or breadth of the web is divided into two equal parts, one being lowered,
the upper half forming a shed for the passage of the upper shuttle, the lower half
forming a shed for the passage of the bottom shuttle.
So soon as a sufficient
length of these narrower portions have been woven to form the length of the button
hole, other hole, or slit, the treadle levers are again brought into action, whereon
the weaving of the next succeeding length of the body of the web proceeds as
before.
The treadles are worked by tappet at the ends thereof, and the fulcrum is
changed by means of a lever and pawl operating on catch wheels, gear, and discs,
the latter operating levers, one of which lowers, the other raising cross bars
forming the other or shorter fulcrums, such change mechanism being under control
of a worm and wheels, so as to be brought into action at intervals, that is to say,
when and so often as a sufficient length of web has been woven; and it will be
understood that whereas in the weaving of the body of the web both shuttles are
crossing its breadth double weft is used, but (in cases where double weft is not
desirable the lower shuttle passes under the shed) in the weaving the button hole
the separate sheds have their own shuttle, consequently the weft is single; thus
the material in which the button hole is formed is lighter and more pliable,
facilitating the passage of the button without weakening the braces," as the strain
and wear is only on the lower part of the hole or loop where the weft becomes
again double.
"
The stave controlling one half the healds and the stave controlling the other half
are together one over the other during the weaving of the fabric or web; so soon as
the weaving of the button holes commences the staves separate such a distance as
to form the two distinct sheds as above described.
Such being the nature and object of this my said Invention I will now proceed
to describe the same in detail, and have fully illustrated the same by the
accompanying Drawings, in which Fig. 1 is a vertical section of part of a loom
having my improvements applied; Fig. 2 is a front elevation. At 1 is a bevel wheel
on crank shaft of loom 2, an upright shaft having worm 3 gearing with
wheel 4. The latter operates lever 5 as the wheel 4 revolves its axis, on which
lever 5 causes the latter to revolve and during part of its revolution raise the
lever 6. When the friction pulley 8 is past the lever 6 the latter falls, and by
means of the weight 6 and pawl or catch 9 gives motion to catch wheel 10 and
gear wheels 11, 12, operating the shaft 13 on which are the discs 14, 14. The

page_text: •
friction pulleys 15, 15, act upon the cranked levers 16, 16; the latter, by means of
the links 17, 17, which are connected with pin 18, removes the fulcrum 18, drawing
heald rods 19, 19, and jacks 20 operating the heald staves 21, thus alternately
dividing or bringing together the warp's thread; the heald staves 21 are, as shewn,
arranged one over the other, half the warp to the upper staves and half to the lower,
for the purpose of dividing the warp into two warps and forming two sheds;
on lever 16 is a connecting rod 22, at the other end of which is lever 23;
on shaft 24 latter carries lever or rod 25, connected by 26 to sliding rods 27,
carrying at their upper ends the cross bar 28; this bar is provided with loops or
guides 29, through which one half of the warp is passed, the other half of the warp
being supported by guide 30. When a button hole, other hole, or slit is to be
formed the weight 6 and rod 6b fall through the agency of a peg barrel or other
ordinary pattern mechanism acting upon the catch 7 and releasing the said catch
from the notch 7 of the rod 6b, thus allowing the weights 6" to act upon lever 6
as already described.
Having thus fully described the nature and particulars of this my said Invention,
together with the manner in which the same is to be or may be performed or
carried into practical effect, I would have it understood that what I claim as my
Invention is,-
Firstly. The use of treadle levers A constructed, operated, and operating in
manner herein fully described, and as illustrated by Drawings.
Secondly. The combination of treadle lever A, levers 5 and 6, and discs 14, 14,
for operating the levers 16, 16, for the purpose herein fully described.
I witness whereof, I, the said John Henry Brierley, have hereunto set my hand
and seal, this Twenty seventh day of November, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and eighty.
Witness,
WALTER BRIERLEY,
Patent Agent,
Halifax & Blackburn.
JOHN HY. BRIERLEY. (L.S.)