METHOD OF FORMING BY SEWING MACHINES STITCHES KNOWN AS HEATHERING AND ADAPTATION OF APPARATUS FOR THAT PURPOSE to be as follows:
Year: 1885

page_text: I JOSEPH BUCHANAN ROBERTSON of Lurgan in the County of Armagh Ireland,
Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of my invention for "METHOD OF FORMING
BY SEWING MACHINES STITCHES KNOWN AS HEATHERING AND ADAPTATION OF
APPARATUS FOR THAT PURPOSE to be as follows:
دو
"
"
In the Complete Specification to my application for Letters Patent dated
7th April 1885, No 4317, I described the production of ornamental stitching such
as is shewn at Fig. 1 of the Drawings to the said Specification by means of a cycle
of six stitches.
According to my present invention I produce a similar configuration of stitching
by means of a cycle of four stitches only, thereby saving one third of the labour
required to produce the said configuration of stitching, and simplifying the
mechanism required to produce it. For this purpose. I employ a modification of the
form of stitching described in the Specification to my Patent N° 15,596 of 1884,
that is to say, referring to Fig. 1 of the accompanying drawing, instead of
arranging the mechanism so as to cause the stitch to pass first diagonally from
0 to 1, then back to 2 in the line of feed,, and then diagonally to 3, and so on, as
described in the said Specification, I form the stitching as shewn at Fig. 2, causing
it to pass first diagonally from 0 to 1, then back on the same line of stitching again
to 2, thence to 3, at an angle to the first line of stitching and back again on the
same line of stitching to 4, and so on, thus producing the configuration of stitching
hereinbefore referred to by means of a cycle of four stitches only:
For producing this formation of stitching, it is only necessary, according to one
arrangement, to modify the feed mechanism in such a manner as first to produce a
long diagonal forward feed, then a short backward feed along the same diagonal
Jine, then a long diagonal forward feed at an angle to the first one, and then a
short backward feed along the same line, and so on. Or according to another
arrangement, the feed mechanism being made to produce in one and the same
straight line, first a long forward feed and then a short backward feed, the needle
is so actuated as to travel in a diagonal direction relatively to the cloth, producing
the cycle of two long stitches forward and two short stitches backward in the same
diagonal lines, as above described.
ABEL & IMRAY,
Agents for the Applicant,...
28, Southampton Buildings,
London, W.C.
.6.10.

page_text: "
I JOSEPH BUCHANAN ROBERTSON of Lurgan in the County of Armagh
Ireland, Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of my invention for "METHOD
OF FORMING BY SEWING MACHINES STITCHES KNOWN AS "HEATHERING AND
ADAPTATION OF APPARATUS FOR THAT PURPOSE and in what manner the same
is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement :-
"
"
In the Complete Specification to my application. for Letters Patent dated
7th April 1885, No 4317, I described the production of ornamental stitching such
as is shewn at Fig. 1 of the Drawings to the said Specification by means of a cycle
of six stitches.
According to my present invention I produce a similar configuration of stitching
by means of a cycle of four stitches only, thereby saving one third of the labour
required to produce the said configuration of stitching, and simplifying the
mechanism required to produce it. For this purpose I employ a modification of
the form of stitching described in the Specification to my Patent N° 15,596 of
1884, that is to say, referring to Fig. 1 of the accompanying drawings instead of
arranging the mechanism so as to cause the stitch to pass first diagonally from
0 to 1, then back to 2 in the line of feed, and then diagonally to 3, and so on, as
described in the said Specification, I form the stitching as shewn at Fig 2, causing
it to pass first diagonally from 0 to 1, then back on the same line of stitching again
to 2, thence to 3, at an angle to the first line of stitching and back again on the
same line of stitching to 4, and so on, thus producing the configuration of stitching
herein before referred to by means of a cycle of four stitches only.
For producing this formation of stitching, it is only necessary, according to one
arrangement, to modify the feed mechanism in such a manner as first to produce a
long diagonal forward feed, then a short backward feed along the same diagonal
line, then a long diagonal forward feed at an angle to the first one, and then a short
backward feed along the same line, and so on. Or according to another arrange-
ment, the feed mechanism being made to produce in one and the same straight line,
first a long forward feed and then a short backward feed, the needle is so actuated
as to travel in a diagonal direction relatively to the cloth, producing the cycle of
two long stitches forward and two short stitches backward in the same diagonal
lines, as above described.
In order that the method first described above may be clearly understood I will
assume that the sewing machine is arranged substantially as described in the
Specifications of my Patents N° 2740 of 1870 and N° 1608 of 1871, that is to say
with the feed acting both forwards and backwards and with the needle moving to
and fro laterally or across the general line of stitching. Now by forming and
setting the cams described in those Specifications in a suitable manner, as may be
readily understood, I give to the needle and feed movements such as I will explain
referring to Fig. 3.

page_text: The needle having ascended from 0 travels transversely to a while the fabric is
fed forward so that 1 comes to a. The needle then descends completing the
diagonal stitch 0 to 1. The needle now ascends and returns from 1 to 6 while the
fabric moves backwards from 6 to 2, and the needle completes the short diagonal
stitch 1 to 2. In like manner, with a lateral movement of the needle 2 to c, and
a forward feed of the fabric 3 to c, the diagonal stitch 2 to 3 is produced, and then,
with return of the needle 3 to d and backward feed of the fabric 4 to d the short
diagonal stitch 3 to 4 is produced, after which the cycle is repeated.
In this manner, on any machine arranged to give lateral movement to the needle
and forward and backward feed to the fabric, the stitch can be produced, the
extent and proportions of the parts thereof being varied by varying the cams, levers
or other parts which work the needle and the feed.
In Rossiter's Specification N° 3720 of 1879 is described an arrangement of feed
for a sewing machine, such that the fabric is moved not only to and fro in the line
of stitching but also transversely thereto. A machine with a feed of this kind is
also applicable to the kind of stitching described above. Thus referring to Fig. 3,
and substituting for the transverse movements of the needle, transverse movements
of the fabric in the opposite direction in each case, the same cycle of stitches can
be produced. The needle always moving in the same vertical line, the fabric is
moved forwards from 1 to a and moved laterally from a to 0 producing the stitch
0 to 1; then the fabric moves backwards 2 to b and laterally 6 to 1 producing the
stitch 1 to 2 and so on throughout the cycle.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is
1. The method of producing by a sewing machine the set of ornamental stitches
known as "heathering" by repeating a cycle of four stitches with suitable move-
ments of the needle and feed, substantially as herein described.
2. Forming the feed and needle reciprocating cams of a sewing machine and
speeding them to the main shaft in such manner as to produce the cycle of four
stitches herein described.