IMPROVEMENTS IN STUDS AND BUTTONS FOR FASTENING ARTICLES OF DRESS
Year: 1856

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Griffin, of the Town and County of North-
ampton, and Elizabeth Duley, of the same Place, for the Invention of
"IMPROVEMENTS IN STUDS AND BUTTONS FOR FASTENING ARTICLES OF DRESS."
Sealed the 27th January 1857, and dated the 29th July 1856.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Griffin and
Elizabeth Duley at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with
their Petition, on the 29th July 1856.
We, WILLIAM GRIFFIN, of the Town and County of Northampton, and
ELIZABETH DULEY, of the same. Place, do hereby declare the nature of tho
said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN STUDS AND BUTTONS FOR FASTENING ARTICLES
OF DRESS," to be as follows:-
Our improvements in studs and buttons relate to the fastening of those
articles to parts of dress, in lieu of sewing, or other ordinary methods of securing
them; our arrangements consist of kind of stud or button head having a neck
and shoulder to bear against the article to which it is to be secured, also a
projecting pin, with a worm or screw upon it, which pin is pushed through the
cloth or garment, & secured by a small nut applied from the back part of the
cloth; the nut is circular with a rough edge. We also secure the ordinary
shank button by a somewhat similar fastening, by placing a metal loop in the

page_text: eye of the shank, the end of the loop which is passed through the fabric or
article of dress being furnished with a screw and nut for the purpose of
securing it; this affords all the looseness of play of the ordinary shank button,
with much more expeditious method and security of fixing. Instead of the
fixing loop or eye that is received into the shank eye, this part may consist of
a hook; this hook holds the shank, and the point of it being drawn back
within the eyelet hole in the fabric or article to which it is attached by the
screw nut, the shank is prevented becoming disengaged.
Another of our improvements refers to covered buttons, and consists in the
application of a flexible loop thereto for sewing them to articles of dress. This
flexible loop we attach to the button by means of the metal shell, through
which, in buttons heretofore made, the part projects that is to be sewn to the
garment.
-SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said William Griffin and Elizabeth Duley in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 28th January 1857.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, WILLIAM
GRIFFIN, of the Town and County of Northampton, and ELIZABETH DULEY,
of the same Place, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-ninth day of July, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-six, in the twentieth year of Her reign,
did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto us, the said
William Griffin and Elizabeth Duley, Her special licence that we, the said
William Griffin and Elizabeth Duley, our executors, administrators, and
assigns, or such others as we, the said William Griffin and Elizabeth Duley, our
executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with, and
no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the term
therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend,
within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel
Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN STUDS AND
BUTTONS FOR FASTENING ARTICLES OF DRESS," upon the condition (amongst
others) that we, the said William Griffin and Elizabeth Duley, our exccutors
or administrators, by an instrument in writing under our, or their, or one
of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature
of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be. performed,

page_text: and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within
.six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters
Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that we, the said William Griffin and Elizabeth Duley,
do hereby declare the nature of our said Invention, and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement, reference being had to the Sheet of Drawing
hereunto annexed (that is to say) :-
:-
Our improvements in studs and buttons for fastening articles of dress relate,
first, to arrangements of the parts for connecting those articles to parts of dress,
in lieu of sewing or other ordinary methods of securing them. Our arrange-
ments consist of an ordinary stud or button head, having a neck and shoulder
to bear against the article to which it is to be secured; also a projecting pin
with a worm or screw thread upon it, which pin is pushed through the cloth or
garment and secured by a small nut applied at the back part of the cloth.
We also secure the ordinary shank button by a somewhat similar fastening;
by placing a metal loop in the eye of the shank, the end of the loop which
is passed through the fabric or article of dress being furnished with a screw
and nut for the purpose of securing it. This affords all the looseness of play
of the ordinary shank button, with much more expedition and security of fixing.
Instead of the loop or eye received into the shank eye, this part may consist
of a hook; this hook holds the shank or part of. the button to be held. The
point of the hook is drawn back within the eyelet hole in the fabric or article
to which it is attached by the screw nut, and thus the button is prevented
becoming disengaged from the hook.
Another of our improvements refers to covered buttons, and consists in the
application of a flexible loop thereto for sewing them to articles of dress. This
flexible loop we attach by means of the metal shell, through which (in ordinary
buttons) the tuft or part to be sewn to the garment projects.
DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS.
Figs. 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5 represent a button constructed to fasten according to
our Invention. These Figures represent a metal button, such as have been
heretofore fastened to the article of dress by means of a shank, sewn thereto.
Fig. 1 shews the button a as fixed to a piece of cloth 6 or, other article, and
buttoned to another part of cloth c. Fig. 2 represents a back view of Fig. 1.
Fig. 3 shews the button detached; and Fig. 4, a front view of the same; while
The button a is
Fig. 5 represents Fig. 1 unbuttoned or detached from c.
formed with a neck and shoulder d, and a projecting pin e, with a screw and
"

page_text: nut f. The pin e is passed through the cloth or other piece b to which it is to be
attached, and the nut applied at the back part, whereby it is firmly secured
'to b.
"
... Fig. 5x represents a button of a different form, but fixed precisely in the
same manner; and Fig. 5× × a front view of the same; while Figs. A and B
represent detached views of the screw nut f. It will be seen that the nut f
has a short boss, which passes through the cloth, and may be screwed hard
against the shoulder d of the button, for the purpose of rendering it secure
on the screw pin e, without exerting too much pressure on the cloth b. Instead
of this the nut may fit tight on the pin e.
edge that bears on the cloth, also tends to
Fig. 6 represents a side view of a stud similarly fastened, and Fig. 7 a back
view of the same; the only difference in this is, that no neck is formed for
the second thickness of cloth c.
The nut being scalloped on the
keep the nut from unscrewing.
Figs. 8 and 9 represent our arrangement of the parts for fixing shank
buttons; Fig. 8 shewing a side view of the nut and button complete, while
Fig. 9 represents the nut removed. An eye h is connected with the shank
of the button, having a screwed ping, which is passed through the cloth, and
the nut fapplied at the back part, by which the button is held thereto. This
fastening affords all the play and freedom of buttoning attained by the shank
button as sewn on in ordinary way. The eye h and shank of button are
of course connected in the manufacture of the button, and are afterwards
inseparable.
Fig. 10 represents a side view, Fig. 11 and Fig. 12 a back view, of a button
similar to Fig. 5x, but which is furnished with a shank & eye h, to be
secured as described with reference to Figs 8 and 9. Fig. C represents the
nut f detached.
Fig. 13 represents a side view of a shank button similar to Fig. 8, but
which is secured by means of a hook i instead of an eye h; Figs. 14 and 15
represent parts of the same, detached. The tail of this hook is furnished with
a screw and nut f, as before, by which it is secured. The point of the hook
is sufficiently turned back to enter the fabric or article 6 to which it is
fastened, so that the shank of the button cannot become disengaged. If.
necessary, the shoulder of the nut f may be screwed close up. to the point
of the hook i.
.Fig. 16 represents a side view of a shank button; and Figs. 17 and 18 its
parts for fixing, according to our Invention, detached. The hook i (Fig. 17,)
after introducing the shank is intended. to be closed, from which the button is
not intended to be removed. This hook is furnished with a shoulder, which

page_text: abuts against the cloth or material to which it is to be fastened, such material
being compressed between the nut f and that shoulder l.
Figs. 19 and 20 represent a covered-button, having a loop or tuft of pliable
material, by which it is secured to the fabric or other material. For securing,
we employ a hook i' and a nut f, somewhat similar to that before described,
the hook being hooked into the tuft or loop n, and the screwed end passed
through the fabric; the nut f, Fig. D, is then applied at the back part, as
before. The button may be made in the ordinary manner of covered buttons,
with a tuft, into which the hook may be inserted, or with a loop, as next
herein-after described.
Figs. 21, 22, 23, and 24 represent a covered button, made with metal shells
in the ordinary way, but with a pliable loop p of any suitable material, Fig. 21
represents the under side of the button; Fig. 22, an edge view; and Fig. 23,
a transverse section of the same.
The loop p may be formed of a number of
strands or parts congregated together to form the loop, which projects through
the central opening in the metal shell at the back or under part. The ends of
the parts of loop p are distributed under the shell, and fixed by being doubled
over the edge, and held by the junction of the front and back shells. The loop
may be secured between the shells in the manner of securing the covering
material of these buttons.
Fig. 24 represents the back or under view of a similar button, with the loop
formed of one piece instead of strands or threads, the ends of the loop being
spread under the shell and fixed thereto, as before. The loop may be first
made in the form of a small endless band, and with an inner hoop or shell
placed within the button. The double of all the parts are passed through the
hole in the under shell to form the loop; the inner hoop being inserted
within the button, will present somewhat the appearance of Figs. 21
and 24.
Having described the nature of our Invention, and the manner in which
the same may be carried into effect, we wish it to be understood that what
we claim as our Invention of improvements in studs and buttons for fastening
articles of dress to be secured to us by the herein-before in part recited Letters
Patent, is,
First, constructing studs and buttons with a screwed stem passed through
the cloth or other material from the front, and having a nut applied at the
opposite side to secure the stud or button, as herein-before described.
Secondly, we claim constructing studs or buttons with an eye and screw
nut, or a hook and screw nut, whereby they have a freedom of motion in

page_text: their connection with the article to which they are secured, as herein-before
described.
And third and lastly, we claim constructing covered metal shell buttons
with pliable loops, as herein-before described.
In witness whereof, we, the said . William Griffin and Elizabeth Duley,
have hereunto set our hands and seals, the Twenty-sixth day of
January, One thousand eight hundred and fifty-seven.
WILLIAM GRIFFIN.
(L.S.)
ELIZABETH DULEY. (L.S.)