IMPROVEMENTS IN BUTTONS AND OTHER FASTENINGS FOR WEARING APPAREL, AND IN THE MACHINERY FOR MANUFACTURING PARTS OF THE SAID FASTENINGS
Year: 1846

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, CHARLES
ROWLEY, of Birmingham, in the County of Warwick, Button Manufacturer,
send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date at Westminster,
the Eleventh day of February, One thousand eight hundred and forty-six, did
give and grant unto me, the said Charles Rowley, my exors, adiñiors, and
assigns, Her especial license, full power, sole privilege and authority, that I,
the said Charles Rowley, my exors, adñiors, and assigns, and such others as
I, the said Charles Rowley, my exors, admors, and assigns, should at any time
agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times hereafter during
the term of years therein mentioned, should and lawfully might make, use,
exercise, and vend, within England, Wales, and the Town of Berwick-upon-
Tweed, my Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN BUTTONS AND OTHER FASTENINGS
FOR WEARING APPAREL, AND IN THE MACHINERY FOR MANUFACTURING PARTS OF THE
SAID FASTENINGS;" in which said Letters Patent there is contained a proviso.
that I, the said Charles Rowley, shall cause a particular description of the
nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed,
by an instrument in writing under my hand and seal, to be enrolled in Her.
said Majesty's, High Court of Chancery within six calendar months next and
immediately after the date of the said in part recited Letters Patent, reference
being thereunto had, will more fully and at large appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said;
Charles Rowley, do hereby declare the nature of my Invention, and the:

page_text: manner in which the same is to be performed, are particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement thereof, reference being had to
the Drawings hereunto annexed, and to the figures and letters marked thereon
(that is to say) :-
:-
My Invention consists of certain improvements in the fastenings for dresses,
and for the machinery for making parts of the same.
My improvements relate,-
Firstly, to a certain mode of combining metals with bone, horn, wood, &c.,
for the manufacture of buttons, commonly called four-hole buttons.
Secondly, for the application to horn buttons of a certain form of shank not
heretofore applied to such buttons.
Thirdly, a new mode of applying shanks to pearl buttons.
Fourthly, my improvement relates to a new metal back to be applied to
what is commonly called Florentine or covered buttons, the same having
flexible shanks.
Fifthly, my improvement relates to a new construction of what is usually
called shirt buttons.
Sixthly, my improvement relates to the making of buttons, commonly called
trowser buttons, where such button is made of metal in combination with cloth
for the back, or made of pearl, bone, horn, wood, &c.
Seventhly, my improvement relates to the covering of buttons with paper so
figured and stamped to imitate a woven fabric, and for embossing paper to
represent gymp, &c., to ornament buttons for ladies' dresses.
Eighthly, my next improvement in buttons consists in manufacturing or
forming them into various configurations by the aid of an additional pair of
tools to those ordinarily used in manufacturing "covered" buttons. Figure 1,
in Sheet 3, represents the face of a button made in the ordinary manner, either
in Florentine silk, satin, or any other material or materials, which covered
buttons are "usually" made or composed of, but it is operating upon this
button by an additional pair of tools, so constructed as to cause it to assume
the shape or configuration as shewn in plan at Figure 2, and Figure 3 is a
section of the same, which is a button in which my improvements consist, and
this is effected in the following manner :-I take a pair of button dies and cut
them with raised and sunken indentations of whatever form or shape I may
devise, (a pair is shewn at Figure 4, where a is the top, and b the bottom die
or tool, both of which are cut out and sunk to answer the shape of the button,
Figure 2, which is also shewn in section, Figure 3, which shape we will suppose
to have been produced by being compressed in the pairs of dies or tools last
referred to. I take the button, Figure 1, and drop or place it upon or into

page_text: the bottom die or tool b, Figure 4, when, by the action of the ordinary fly-
press, the top die or tool a, Figure 4, will compress the button, Figure 1,
into the lower die or tool b, Figure 4, and cause the button, Figure 1, to take
the contour or configuration of the pair of dies or tools into which the
button has been compressed, and the once even surface of the button will have
become crinkled and uneven, and the object of my Invention is to produce
buttons of various shapes and configurations, as before described. Figures 5
and 6 shew a plan of the pair of dies or tools a and b, Figure 4.
Ninthly, my next improvement consists in applying studs to buttons covered
with plain silk or other woven fabric or fabrics, such studs also being covered
with woven fabric or fabrics on their faces, and which is intended to be worked
with a flower sprig, or other device or devices, the same being produced by
weaving or otherwise; the face or shell of the button, as shewn in plan,
Figure 7, is intended to have a hole pierced in it suitable to receive the shank
of the covered stud D placed, and it will be seen that the shoulder of the stud
at e will find a resting place on the face of the shell of the button at f,
Figure 7, while it is being rivetted or fixed on to the same. "The button
complete in Figure 8 is shewn in section, which will be more easily understood,
and Figure 9 shows a plan or face of the button, with the ornamented stud
therein;" and when this has been accomplished, the button is then put
together, closed, and completed in the ordinary manner of making covered
buttons, and thereby a very eqable and sightly article will have been produced,
and what is technically called in the trade centre pattern buttons, which con-
stitutes this part of my Invention.
"Tenthly, my next improvement consists in manufacturing "leather" fastenings
for the fronts of pantaloons or trowsers, which leather fastenings will be found
to be more desirable than those in present use; also in the application of such
leather fastenings; I cut out and pierce, at one operation by a tool and mallet,
the article as shewn at Figure 10, which tool is constructed similar to that
which is well known to be used for cutting out leather trowsers straps at one
operation; it will be not necessary therefore to give any further explanations
than to say that a great deal of time will be saved in avoiding the tedious
process of working the button holes.
Eleventhly, my improvement relates to shawls and cloak fastenings.
Twelfthly, my improvement relates to straps for trowsers, &c.
Thirteenthly, my improvement relates to fastenings for gloves, &c.
Lastly, my improvement relates to the making of buckles, and for the
machinery for performing the same.

page_text: DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.
Sheet 1 Figure 1 represents part of my four-hole buttons, formed either
of bone, horn, wood, porcelain, or other like material or materials; Figure 2
is a section of the same; Figure 3 is a stamped metal shell, shewn in section
at Figure 4, and it will be seen that by putting the part Figure 1 into the
shell Figure 3, and closing the shell in at the back, an operation easily per-
formed and well understood by button manufacturers, that the button will be
made, and resemble Figure 5 on the front side, and Figure 6 on the back.
Figure 7 is a section of a finished button. I apply to these and other buttons
of a similar kind (in order to give them a more sightly appearance), discs
made of metal, bone, porcelain, or other material, such discs having loops at
their back, through which the needle is intended to be passed, when it may be
affixed to the button, by drawing the thread through the garment, similar to
sewing on the button itself; or it may be sewn through the disc, and thus
the thread which would be used in sewing on the button is concealed. The
button with the disc applied is shewn in plan and section at Figure 7, a and b.
Figure 8 represents the back of a horn button with a shank applied, and which
shank was patented by me in conjunction with Thomas Chambers and Francis
Mast Franklin, of Lawrance Lane, in the City of London, in the County of
Middlesex, bearing date the Twenty-seventh day of August, One thousand
eight hundred and forty-one, and which Patent claims the use of this shank
for covered buttons only. Figure 9 represents a section of the last Figure;
and Figure 10 a detached shank; and it will be seen that to prevent the horn
working up into the shank during the process of pressing the soft horn in the
moulds to form the buttons, that I place a thin disc of metal, as shewn at
Figure 11, into the sunken part at the back before I place the shank in, and
which will entirely prevent the evil. a, Figure 9, represents the position of
the disc, Figure 11, when placed in the button; Figure 12 represents the
back of a pearl button, with my new shank applied; Figure 13 represents the
section of the button, ready to receive the shank; and Figure 14 represents a
common wire button shank, soldered to a small round disc of metal, stamped up
into a convex form; and the manner in which I apply the shank to the pearl is
thus: I drop the disc or plate b, Figure 14, into the recess c, Figure 13, and
by means of pressure applied to the convex side of the part b, it is flattened
and expanded so as to become secure to the pearl front. Figure 15 represents
my metal back for covered buttons, where flexible shanks are applied, and my
improvement is entirely confined to the introduction of the teeth around the
hole, which will entirely prevent the flexible shank being pulled out; Figure

page_text: 16 is a section of Figure 15. Figure 17 represents the front side of one of
my improved shirt buttons; Figure 18 is a back view, and Figure 19, a side
view, shewing the mode of making the same. This button consists of a metal
eyelet, and the woven fabric being gathered in and held between the eyelet
and the back ring, by the eyelet being thrown over and pressed down, the
usual way of making buttons with the assistance of a fly-press, or otherwise.
Figure 39 represents the front of another shirt button, and Figure 40 is a
back view of the same; and the manner in which I make this button is this:-
I cut out and turn up at the outside edge, by means of dies and pressure, the
ring, Figure 42, and having cut out a round piece of woven fabric of sufficient
size to come over the edge and tuck in, and having so arranged this covering
with the ring, Figure 42, by means of a press and tools in the ordinary way, I next
drop in a round piece of thick cloth, of the size of the interior of the button,
within the edge, and I then place in the back of the button, which I make by
first covering a sheet of metal with a piece of woven fabric of the same size.
The cloth and metal being united, I cut out by the same operation as many
round discs as will consequently make, at the same time piercing a hole in the
centre of each, and which part is represented at Figure 41 ; and in the same
hole of the same Figure, I introduce an eyelet, and with the back so made I
next place it on the before-mentioned thick cloth, &c., and by an action of a
fly-press, or otherwise, I close in and finish the button. Figure 43 shews the
position of all the parts before the last operation is performed. Figure 44
represents the front of another shirt button, and Figure 45 is the back view of
the same. Figure 46 is a mere ring of copper wire. Figure 47 is made in
the same manner as Figure 42, the centre hole being smaller than the hole in
Figure 42, and the metal thrown over, as may be seen by the edge view in
Figure 48; the utility of this, as in former shirt buttons, is to prevent the
thread being cut by the rough edge of the metal when sewn on; and in putting
these parts together to make a button I use a piece. of woven fabric of the
required substance, as shewn at d, l, e, Figure 49, and so arranged as described
in my last button, and I then drop in a round piece of cloth, which may be
thicker and, stronger than the front, and which may be also seen at / in the
section, Figure 49, and I then put in the ring, close in the edge, which finishes
the button.
"
My next improvement in a button consists in stamping and piercing the
shell in front of the button in a particular form, so as to have a centre hole,
and then a raised ring or bar, and two or more holes on the outside of the bar,
such as is represented at Figure 28, and the reverse, or a back view, at
Figure 29, the back being formed by a woven fabric; and in order to stretch

page_text: and hold in the cloth, I sometimes use a ring of common round wire, such as is
represented at Figure 30, and sometimes a flat ring, as shewn at Figure 31;
Figure 32 represents the flat ring applied to the same button; Figure 33 is a
section of the same button, shewing the ring g, h, pressing upon the cloth back,
as also the ring or bar i, j, on which the thread rides when the button is sewn
.on. Figure 34 is a section of the same with the flat ring applied, as may be
seen at l, m, in this Figure. I also improve bone, pearl, wood, or horn buttons,
by making them with a centre hole, the ring or bar, and the two or more small
holes around it for the thread to pass through, and ride on the bar when the
button is sewn on. Figure 35 represents a bone button, with the centre hole
and ring; the dotted line shews where the thread is used in sewing on;
Figure 36 is a back view, and Figure 37 is a section of the same, and whether
of pearl, as shewn, Figure 38, or of wood, or of bone, I make them the same
shape, as far as regards the centre hole and ring or bar.
And my next improvement in buttons consists in using plain, stamped, printed,
or embossed paper, to imitate silk, satin, or any other woven material, for the
covering of the buttons. Paper has, I believe, been used for this purpose, but
my improvement consists in strengthening the paper by uniting with it at the
back some thin inexpensive woven fabric, or other suitable material for the
purpose, such as calico, &c., and I use this union of paper, woven fabric, or
other suitable material for the purpose in the same manner as silks, satins, or
other expensive materials, which are now generally used for the covering of
buttons; and by this method I effect a great saving in the costs of the
articles; and instead of surrounding the buttons for ladies' dresses with fancy
work of gymp or braid, as is commonly used, I substitute embossed paper, the
same being strengthened, as before mentioned, at the backs with a woven
fabric or other suitable material for the purpose. Figure 50 represents one of
my buttons ornamented with embossed paper, and it will be evident that many
and various designs may be effected by the same means. Figure 20 represents
one of my improved cloak fasteners, the advantage of which is that it is more
easily fastened or liberated than by the ordinary manner, where the chain link
has to pass over the point of the hook in fastening and unfastening. Figure 21
has the front of the hook removed, in order to shew the position of the chain,
and by referring to the side view, Figure 22, it will be seen that there is only
room between the hook for the link of the chain to be flatways, and therefore
the chain cannot be pulled through. Figure 23 is a back view, shewing that
I sometimes apply two pins for the purpose of holding the parts firmly to the
cloak or shawl, and at the same time allowing them to be easily removed; but
sometimes I apply only one pin, as seen as Figure 24, and the manner in

page_text: which I attach the pin to the plate is thus:-I solder a small piece of metal
to the pin, as seen at n, Figure 25, and by piercing a hole or holes in the
plate o, Figure 24, or P, Figure 23, into which I put the shanks of the
pin n, Figure 25, and rivet on the reverse side. I sometimes form a shank
in the back plate, as may be seen at Figure 26, and sideways at Figure 27,
so that the fastener may be sewn on the cloak or garment; and I some-
times make the hook open enough to hold the link of the chain broadways,
and apply a pin in the hollow of the hook, as seen at Figure 27, and which
pin, entering into any one link of the chain, will hold it in any required
position.
Figure 51 represents a glove (in which two eyelet holes are affixed), with
one of my modes of fastening applied, and it is only necessary to add that in
order to fasten the glove I pull one of the tassels till the glove becomes to a
comfortable tightness to the wrist. The fastening will not give way, because
of the knot near the other tassel pressing within the hole, which pressure is
instantly relieved by pulling the tassell nearest the hole. The holes in the
glove to hold the fastening may be worked with a needle, but I prefer the
metal eyelet in consequence of its durability. Figure 52 is the same principle
as 51, with this difference, it is made more ornamental, and having studs at
the back, so that it may be removed from the glove at pleasure, the glove
having two small holes to admit the studs. Figure 53 is an edge of Figure 52,
shewing the stud; Figure 54 is another variation in form, the cord passing
through the stud, and instead of tying a knot in the cord, I use two little
rough beads, which has the same effect. Figure 55 shews another of my
glove fasteners, and Figure 56 is another view of the same; and it will be seen
that by pulling the parts together by the tassel, and the cord working through
the ring T, Figure 55, and by placing the cords between the parts u, v,
Figure 56, the above will be readily fastened or released. Figure 57 repre-
sents another of my improvements in glove fastenings, the action of which is
seen best in Figure 58. The glove is tightened by pulling the webbing by the
tassel w, Figure 57, and relieved by lifting up the front of the buckle by the
projecting part y in the same Figure, and also at z, Figure 58; Figure 59
represents the part that goes to the end of the web detached, as also the
buckle, and it will be shewn that this contrivance can be removed from the
glove at pleasure, as the loop a and 6 will enable you to do so. Figure 60 is
a back view of the buckle shewn at Figure 57 and 58. Figure 61 is a glove
fastener on the same principle as the cloak fastener, Figure 27. Figure 62
is an edge view of the hooks, Figure 61, shewing the pin in the hollow of the
hook at e, and the studs b and c.

page_text: but
The parts
Figure 63, Sheet 2, represents my improved trowsers strap.
f, g, can be buttoned or sewn to the trowsers, and the middle part detached at
pleasure by merely turning the part h until it is at right angles with the part i,
as the pin will then be flat, and parallel with the hole that it passes in at ;
sometimes I only use one of these connecting parts, as shewn at Figure 64,
the ends of the leathers being sewn to the trowsers or buttoned on, as it may
please the wearer. Figure 65 is a detached and edge view of the metal parts,
shewing that the pin is broader one way than it is on the other, and that the
shoulder k, l, of the pin, when put in and turned round, will bear upon the pro-
jection m, n, of the other part, and hold them firmly together; Figure 66 is
merely a detached front view of the last Figure. The dotted lines o, p, shew
the length of the hole or slott that the pin goes into to unite the parts.
Figures 67 and 68 are tools which I use either in a press or stamp, by
which I form at one operation tongues for buckles; but when they are
required of strong iron wire, I find it necessary to make the wire of a good
bright heat before passing it between the tools; Figure 69 is a bird's-eye view
or plan of Figure 67, the wire passing in between the pin w and x, the end
resting in the hollow z, and the top tool, Figure 68, being brought down with
the required force, the wire is pressed into the cavity of the die, and the tongue
is thus formed.
Figure 70 is a front view of a simple machine, by which I bond wire into a
square or oblong form for buckles, such as Figure 72 or Figure 73. It con-
sists of an iron frame, which may be fastened to a wood or any other suitable
bench, having a mandril working in split collars, set in motion by the handle q,
when required, and the manner in which I bend the wire is thus :-I put one
end of the wire into the slott r, and I then bend around the wire under until
I can bring the wheels to bear against it by means of a weight or hand pres-
sure applied to the lever t, and with the wire thus arranged, the pressure on
the lever, and the handle in motion, the wire will be bent into a continuous
square spiral form, to any extent required, as shewn by the dotted lines.
Figure 71 is an end view of Figure 70. The same letters that refer to the
several parts of Figure 70 refer to the same parts in this Figure also; and
when the wire is thus bent, I cut them off with a saw, as seen at u, Figure 72,
and then solder them up; but sometimes I cut them obliquely, as seen at v,
Figure 73, where part of the roller is removed, in order to shew it. Many
.buckles are made without being soldered, and which may be the case in this
instance.
Having thus described the nature of my Invention, and the best manner I
am acquainted with for performing the same, I would remark, that what I

page_text: claim is, First, the mode of combining metal with bone, horn, wood, &c., for
buttons, as within described from Figures 1 to 7.
Secondly, the application of the shank therein described to horn, pearl; and
other buttons, as shewn at Figure 9.
Thirdly, the mode, as herein described, for making and applying shanks, as
shewn at Figures 13 and 14.
Fourthly, I claim the teeth around the hole of the button back, as herein
described, and shewn at Figures 15 and 16.
Fifthly, I claim the mode herein described at Figures 17, 18, 19, for
making shirt buttons of eyelets, and also the modes of making shirt buttons as
set forth at Figures 39 to 49, the eyelet being introduced to prevent the
thread being cut when sewn on.
Sixthly, I claim the modes herein described for making trowsers buttons,
and particularly the centre hole and ring, as shewn in Figures from 28
to 38..
Seventhly, the covering of buttons with paper, the paper being strengthened
by being united, by means of paste, glue, gutta percha, or any other adhesive
mixture, to a woven fabric on the under side, and also for using such paper so
strengthened to ornament buttons for ladies' dresses to imitate gymp, &c., as
shewn at Figure 50.
Eighthly, I claim the mode of forming or fashioning buttons in various con-
figurations by an additional pair of tools, as herein described, and shewn in
Figure Figs. 4 to 6, Sheet 3.
Ninthly, I claim the application to covered buttons, studs covered with plain
or figured material, as herein described, and shewn at Figure 7, 8, & 9, &
letter D.
Tenthly, I claim the manufacture and application of the leather material to
trowsers, as herein described, and shewn at Figure 10.
Eleventhly, I claim the hook in conjunction with the chain, as herein de-
scribed, and exhibited at Figures 20, 21, and 22, as also the application of and
the mode of applying the pins, as shewn at Figures 22, 23, 24, and 25, the
shank, Figure 26, and the pin in the hollow of the hook, Figure 27.
Twelfthly, I claim the trowsers strap herein described, as far as relates to the
metal parts.
Thirteenthly, I claim the modes herein described (without reference to de-
sign), for fastening gloves, as exhibited in front and edge view at Figures 51
to 54, as also the mode herein described and set forth at Figures 55 and 56,
the buckle or fastening herein described, and exhibited at Figure 57, and the
chain and hook and pin exhibited at Figures 61 and 62.

page_text: Lastly, I claim the making of buckles, frames, and buckle tongues of drawn
wire, as herein described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Charles Rowley, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, the Eleventh day of August, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and forty-six.