A New Method of Cutting a Shooting Coat.
Year: 1899

page_text: Date of Application, 26th Sept
1800
Complete Specification Left, 8th Nov., 1899-Accepted, 17th Feb., 1900
A New Method of Cutting a Shooting Coat.
1,
PERCY NIGEL EFFINGHAM TOMBLESON, of 30, Old Bond Street, London, W.,
Commercial Clerk, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as
follows:-
Cutting the back of a shooting coat on the bias way of the cloth or material.
A New Method of Cutting a Shooting Coat.
I, PERCY NIGEL EFFINGHAM TOMBLESON, 30, Old Bond Street, London, W.,
Commercial Clerk, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement:―
It is very important that in coats, more especially in sporting coats used in
shooting, golf, and the like, the back of the coat between the shoulders should
be capable of stretching or expanding laterally to a considerable extent without
injury to the texture or seams, when the arms of the wearer are stretched forward,
and at the same time that the back of the coat should contract or return to its
normal position when the force caused by such stretching forward is removed.
No effective method of securing this extension and contraction without injury,
to the material has, however, been heretofore obtained.
It is well known that woven cloth or fabrics used for making such coats is
necessarily, from the process of manufacture, capable of considerable stretching,
without injury, under a strain exerted in a direction between the directions
of the threads of which it is woven, such threads being at right angles to each
other and constituting the warp and weft respectively of the cloth; whilst on
the other hand it is incapable or almost incapable of stretching under a strain
exerted in the direction of either the warp or the weft threads.
I take advantage of this property in making the backs of coats of the kind
described, by cutting the parts of the back mentioned above in such a manner
that when the strain caused by stretching forward the arms arises it acts upon
the fabric at such parts in the direction in which the latter can freely stretch
sufficiently, without injury. This I do by cutting the material for such parts on
what is well known as the bias," (that is to say, at an angle between the
directions of the warp and the weft sets of threads respectively), instead of on

page_text: the "
square," (or parallel with these sets of threads), the direction in which
the material can stretch being arranged so as to be horizontal.
Such method of cutting the woven fabric for the purpose required, has never
hitherto been known or adopted, but by its use a perfect result is obtained,
the coat being capable of the hard usage required without injury, so that its
durability is increased, without the cost being increased, or its appearance
injuriously affected.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, declare that what
I claim is:
-
In coats, which are liable to lateral stretching across the back, the method
of making the parts of the back which are liable to such stretching, of cloth or
woven fabric cut on the bias, so that the stretching takes place in the direction
in which the fabric can yield to it without injury, substantially as described.
D
1
1000
1000
EDWARDS AND CO.,
Chartered Patent Agents, 65 and 66, Chancery Lane, London,
Agents for the Applicant.