Improvements in Boots and Shoes.
Year: 1894

page_text: Date of Application, 6th Nov., 1894
Complete Specification Left, 2nd Aug., 1895-Accepted, 21st Sept., 1895
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Boots and Shoes.
I, THOMAS FRANCIS MARSHALL, of 1460, Seventh Street, Oakland, in the
County of Alameda and State of California United States of America, Boot and
Shoe Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as
follows:-
Heretofore the necessity of making the linings of the elastic gores of boots and
shoes yielding has prevented the production of a lining that would be water-tight,
but by my invention the lining is both yielding and water-tight and presents in
addition a substantially smooth surface to the foot.
In a boot or shoe having elastic gores at the side the same are secured in the
upper and the lining covers the same at the inside, its side edges normally extending
about to the side edges of the gore. The side edges of the lining are united to the
upper or to the lining thereof by a bellows or accordion connection. Thus
the forward edges of the lining at the back of the upper are continued beneath the
lining between the same and the elastic gore and each edge thus continued is united
to the lining by a return strip, the latter and the forward edge of the lining
forming the bellows fold or accordion fold. The lining or elastic are preferably
united at the top at the centre by a small strip of leather which is sewed to
both.
The boot or shoe may have a pair of elastic gores at the front, one at each side
of the central strip of the upper, in which case a single lining is provided that is one
having one bellows fold for each elastic gore, the said folds being at the side edges
of the lining at the rear side edges of the elastic gores, and the lining is stitched at
the centre to the central strip. The bellows folds preferably are formed the same
as in the form first described, by the forward edges of the main lining and by
additional strips.
In the manufacture of top boots embodying my invention, two elastic gores are
let into the boot one at each side of the instep, and my improved lining is secured
at its centre by stitching to the strip which intervenes the gores. The outer side
edges of the lining are formed with bellows folds in the same manner as last described
and at its lower end it follows the lines of the instep and preferably is fastened
to form the complete lining of the front of the upper or it may be joined to the
upper lining.
It will be understood that the invention is applicable to long or short leg boots and
to both sides or only one side, or the back of either a boot or shoe.
An additional means of maintaining the bellows fold in position may be provided,
consisting of an elastic strip secured at its forward end to the lining adjacent to
the bellows fold and at its opposite end to the lining. In all cases a lining is
provided that will possess the water-tight properties desired while at the same time
it is laterally extensible and will yield readily and permit the distension of the gore
and by means of the invention a proper fit at the ankle may be obtained without
.ffecting the water-tight feature.
In a modification which is designed to still further ensure a waterproof construc-
tion, the lining of the gore is made continuous with the bellows folds and the edges
are returned to receive the edges of the elastic gore and again return bent at the
extreme edges to overlay the material of the upper or leg and the bends of the gore
ining, the edges of the upper lining and the material of the upper are all stitched

page_text: together by double rows of stitching. In this form also, one end of each elastic
strip is entered between the lining and an extra thickuess which is applied to the
lining, and stitched to both, while the opposite ends of such strips are passed through
slits in the upper lining and stitched thereto.
In another form the lining and bellows folds are continuous as just described
but the marginal edges of the bellows folds, instead of being brought to the
outside, are entered between the outer leather or upper and the lining.
Dated this 6th day of November 1894.
A. M. & WM. CLARK,
53, Chancery Lane, London, Chartered Patent Agents.
I, THOMAS FRANCIS MARSHALL, of 1460, Seventh Street, Oakland in the
County of Alameda, and State of California, United States of America, Boot and
Shoe Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention, and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement :-
The object of my invention is to provide an improved lining for the elastic gores
of boots and shoes and to this end the invention consists in the novel construction
hereinafter particularly described and defined in the claims.
Reference is to be had to the accompanying drawings, forming a part of this
Specification, in which
Figure 1 is a perspective view of a side gored shoe having my water-tight
improvements. Figure 2 is a similar view thereof, with parts broken out to better
shew the improved water-tight lining for the gore.
Figure 3 is a cross section taken through one side of the shoe, as indicated by
line 3-3 in Figure 1.
Figure 4 is a perspective view of a shoe having the elastic gores at the front,
parts being broken away.
Figure 5 is a side elevation of a boot fitted with elastic gores having my improved
water-tight lining, parts being broken away.
Figure 6 is a horizontal section taken on the line 6-6 in Figure 5; and
Figures 7 and 8 are horizontal sections illustrating slight modifications of the
invention.
Similar letters of reference indicate corresponding parts in all the figures.
Heretofore the necessity of making linings of elastic gores yielding, has prevented
the production of a lining that would be water-tight. In my improvement, the
lining is both yielding and water-tight and presents as well a substantially smooth
surface to the foot.
In the shoe shewn in Figures 1, 2, and 3, the elastic gores A are secured in the
upper at the sides, and my improved lining B covers the same at the inside, its
side edges normally extending about to the side edges of the gore. The side edges
of the lining B are united to the upper, or to the lining thereof, by a bellows or
accordion connection C. Thus, in the arrangement shewn, the forward edges d of
the lining D at the back of the upper are continued beneath the lining B, between
the same and the elastic gore A, and each edge thus continued is united to the
lining B by a return strip b, the latter and the forward edge of the lining D
forming the bellows fold or accordion fold as shewn. The elastic goring normally
acts to maintain the bellows fold beneath the lining B but it will be seen that upon
the elastic being distended by the insertion of the foot the lining will yield
correspondingly and will present the while a substantially smooth surface to the
foot. The lining B and elastic A are preferably united at the top at the centre

page_text: In this form of shoe I also
by a small strip a of leather, which is sewed to both.
prefer to provide four tug straps c, two front and two rear as shewn.
In the form of shoe shewn in Figure 4, the elastie gores A' are at the front, one
at each side of the central strip E of the upper, and a single lining B' is provided,
that is one having one bellows fold C for each elastic gore, the said folds being at
the side edges of the lining B' at the rear side edges of the elastic gores and the
lining is stitched at the centre to the central strip E. The bellows folds preferably
are formed the same as in the form first described by the forward edges d¹ of the
main lining and by the additional strips corresponding to the strips b.
In the manufacture of boots embodying my invention, two elastic gores A2, A²,
(Figure 5), are let into the boot, one at each side of the instep, and my improved
lining B2 is secured at its centre by stitching to the strip E¹ which intervenes the
gores. The outer side edges of the lining B2 are formed with bellows folds C²,
(Figure 6), in the same manner as described in connection with Figure 4. and at
its lower end it follows the lines of the instep and preferably is fastened to form
the complete lining of the front of the upper, or it may be joined to the upper
lining. It will be understood that the invention is applicable to long or short
leg boots and to both sides or only one side, or the back of either a boot or shoe.
In the forms shewn in Figures 4 and 5 an additional means of maintaining the
bellows fold in position is provided, consisting of an elastic strip F secured at its
forward end to the lining B1, B2, adjacent to the bellows fold and at its opposite
end to the lining D as at f. In all cases it will be seen a lining is provided that
is laterally
will possess the water-tight properties desired while at the same time
extensible and will yield readily and permit the distension of the gore and by means
ot the invention a proper fit at the ankle may be obtained without affecting the
water-tight feature.
In Figure 7 a slight modification is shewn which is designed to still further
ensure a waterproof construction. In this form the lining B of the gore is made
continuous with the bellows folds b, d, and the edges are returned as at b², to
receive the edges of the elastic gore A. and again return bent at the extreme
edges as at 63, to overlay the material of the upper or leg and the bends 62, 63, of
the gore lining B; the edges of the upper lining D' and the material of the upper
are all stitched together by double rows of stitching '.
In the form shewn in Figure 8, the lining and bellows folds are continuous as in
Figure 7 but the marginal edges of the bellows folds instead of being brought to
the outside, as in Figure 7, are entered between the outer leather or upper and
the lining as at 1,
65
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is:
gore,
and
1. A boot or shoe having an elastic gore, a water-tight lining for the
a bellows fold connecting the edges of the lining with the boot or shoe, the members
of the bellows fold lying normally beneath the edges of the lining and meeting at
an angle to lie substantially flat on each other and covered and concealed by said
lining, substantially as described.
2. A boot or shoe having an elastic gore and a water-tight lining connected with
the shoe by a bellows connection and elastic strips forming an additional connection
between the said lining and the shoe, substantially as described.
3. The boot or shoe having a lining for the elastic gore, the said lining being
continuous with the bellows folds and arranged substantially as shewn and
described.
1
' 1
100%
A. M. & WM. CLARK,
53, Chancery Lane, London, Chartered Patent Agents.