Year: 1889

page_text: Date of Application, 10th Sept., 1889-Accepted, 23rd Nov., 1889
adapted to enable any one of ordinary intelligence to prepare from simple measure-
ments a pattern for a woman or child of any usual size.
In the accompanying drawings,
Fig. 1 illustrates the front, side, and sleeve chart.
Fig. 2 the back; and
Fig. 3 that for fitting the upper end of the under part of the sleeve.
Figure 1 is drawn on a scale three inches to the foot; and Figures 2 and 3 on a
scale of four inches to the foot.
Referring to the letters on the drawings, A indicates the front and side of the chart,
and A' the sleeve part. B indicates the neck scale, and C the shoulder scale. The
former consists of a series of intersecting lines, and numbers at the intersections of
said lines, and is provided with connecting lines between the numerals on scales B and C,
respectively, whereby, when the measurement of the neck of a given garment has been
obtained and laid off on the neck scale, the number on the shoulder scale connected
thereto indicates the proper shoulder measure for the garment.
D indicates the arm-hole, and E, the bust measures. F indicates the waist
measure, G the skirt part, H the scale for the front of the garment, and I the waist
gores.
The above description applies to the front and back part of the chart wherever
the letters occur.
In the back part, U indicates the middle back seam scale, and W
the back waist scale. Vindicates the scale for the skirt part of a basque. In the
sleeve part A', the perpendicular lines K indicate the scale of measurement for
laying off the length of arm from elbow to shoulder. The measurement around
the arm is laid off at the intersection of one of these lines with one of the lines L
which cross said scale lines K at an oblique angle. The combination of the said
lines K and L form the scale for obtaining the upper part of the sleeve pattern.
M indicates a scale at elbow for the upper part of sleeve; and M¹ that for the
lower part. N indicates scale at hand for large sizes--that is, adult persons, and N¹
that for smaller sizes. O indicates a curve for the top of the upper part and under
part of sleeves.
In
Fig. 3 shows a chart which is intended to be used in combination with the scale A¹
to obtain the extreme point of the upper end of the under part of the sleeve of a
garment. It is composed of two sections P, P¹, graduated in the usual manner by
numbers. The numerals on the scale P correspond with those on the scale A¹, and the
numerals on the scale P¹ correspond with similar numbers on the scale P.
using this portion of my chart, when a certain measurement has been obtained and
laid off by number on the scale A³, the scale P is applied by its corresponding
number to said number on scale A' across the upper end of the sleeve, and there-
upon the same numeral on the scale P' indicates the required point.
To understand clearly the use of my chart, let it be borne in mind that the chart
itself is to be used as a scale from which to obtain different patterns; and that in each
individual case a particular pattern is to be laid off from the chart.

page_text: In the accompanying drawings, the scales are numbered or graduated in the usual
manner, and at points where the numbers are located are placed dots, which in use
indicate perforations. To begin with the front and side part of the chart, let it be
assumed that the measure over the chest from the neck is 34, and the neck measure 12.
I then make a dot at 34 on the dividing line between the scale B and C. Then
following the line of the neck, which sets out from 34, I find the perforation 12 on
the neck scale, and there place another dot. I also follow the line from 34 in the
opposite direction to the dot at the end of it, which is in this case 6, and there make a
dot. Next I obtain the bust.measure, and connect the measures so found with the
dot 6, using the contour of the arm-hole D for the arm-hole in every garment. I then
find the length of the waist under the arm and mark it off by its appropriate dot on
the perpendicular lines of the waist measure F. The front gores and the basque scale
will be readily understood, as they do not differ from the scales shown in charts of this
general nature.
The back part of chart is similar to that in other charts, and is shown here chiefly
to indicate the relation of the parts to the whole, and for the sake of illustrating the
parallel lines of the neck, shoulder, and arm scales, which I have adopted as being of
considerable advantage in practice; but these I do not claim to possess patentable
novelty.
On the back part of the chart, R. S. and T indicate the scales for laying off the
form of the upper portion of the back part of a garment by measurements taken
around the chest under the arms around the largest part of the bust. Suppose that
the measurement around the chest is 34, then, in practice, a dot is made on the scale T
at 34. Then the lines which connect the point 34 with points on the scales R and S
are followed, and dots made at the point at which they intersect the scale lines R and S.
When the dot 34 in the scale R is reached, the line which extends to the scale
which forms the middle seam of the back part of the garment is followed, and
a dot made at the end of that line. This last line indicates the required neck
measurement.
In the foregoing description of the front and side part of the chart, the chief
novelty, and that upon which I base my invention in this regard, is the neck
scale.
Coming now to the scale for the sleeve, suppose the measurement from the elbow
to shoulder is 14 inches. This length is indicated in the scale K by the perpendicular
line 14. Now, assuming that the measurement around the arm is 12 inches, I make
a dot at the intersection of the line 12 of the scale L, and 14 of the scale K, then,
ascertaining the measurement around the elbow to be 10, I make a dot from the
scale M at 10, and a dot from the scale M¹ at 10. These points are in the outside line
of the upper and under part of the sleeve respectively. I next find the measurement
around the hand, and, assuming that it is 6, I make a dot at 6 in the scale N. Having
laid off the inside lines of the two parts of the sleeve by the curve in the lower part of
the chart shown in Fig. 1, I connect the dot first above obtained with the dot 10 in
the scale M, and the latter with the dot 6, using the front line H for a guide. This
gives me the outside lines of the upper part of the sleeve. Then from the dot at
shoulder I lay off a straight line perpendicular to the line from shoulder to elbow.
Upon this I apply the scale shown in Fig. 3. Taking the dot at 12 on the
perpendicular line in the said scale 1 place it upon the dot first before obtained, and
make the perpendicular line of scale in Fig. 3 conform with the straight line across
the top of the sleeve. I then make a dot from 12 on the oblique line in the
scale P. This gives me the extreme point in the outside line of the under part of the
sleeve. This I connect with the dot 10 obtained from the scale M¹, and the latter I
connect with the dot indicating measurement at hand. I then apply the curve O
along the dots obtained from the scales K, L, and P¹, and draw the top curve
of the under part of the arm. Reversing the curve O Í connect the outside lines
of the upper part of the arm to obtain the top curve of the same.
In cutting allow seams all around,

page_text: Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. In a dress chart, the combination of a shoulder scale C, graduated by numbers
thereon, a neck scale B, the latter being composed of a series of intersecting lines
and numbers at the intersections of said lines, and connecting lines between the
numerals on scale B and C, whereby a measurement of the neck of a garment
being laid off by number on the neck scale, the number on the shoulder scale
connected thereto indicates the proper shoulder measure, substantially as set forth.
2. The combination with the sleeve scale A', of the separate scales P, P', said scales
being graduated by numbers, the numerals on the scale P corresponding with those
on the scale A', and the numerals on the scale P¹ corresponding with similar numbers
on the scale P, whereby when a certain number on the scale P is applied in the manner
set forth in the specification to its equivalent number, said number having been
ascertained by measurement, the same numeral or the scale P¹ indicates the
extreme point of the upper end of the under part of a dress sleeve, substantially
as set forth.
A 1000
JENSEN & SON,
77, Chancery Lane, London, W.C., Patent Agents.