An Improved Woven Fabric suitable for Dress Goods and other purposes, and the Method of Producing the same.
Year: 1899

page_text: Date of Application, 28th Jan., 1899
Complete Specification Left, 14th Oct., 1899-Accepted, 18th Nov.,
1899
An Improved Woven Fabric suitable for Dress Goods and other
purposes, and the Method of Producing the same.
I, LEVI FISH, of Spa Mill, Marsh Lane, Preston, Cotton Manufacturer, do
hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
The invention relates to a novel form of cut weft pile woven fabric suitable
for dress goods and other purposes, and to the method of producing the same,
of the character to be hereinafter described; and which invention constitutes a
further improvement on an invention for which Letters Patent have been granted
to Levi Fish numbered 14834 of 1897.
In carrying out my present invention I arrange dobby, jacquard or equivalent
apparatus so as in the process of weaving to bind two cloths together in such a
manner that when the weft pile threads are subsequently cut with an ordinary
velvet cutting instrument, the two cloths will be separated and readily pulled
apart. But, instead of this arrangement of weaving being made so as to produce
two reciprocal fabrics as described in the specification of the Letters Patent above
cited, I arrange the weaving of one cloth to produce floated weft for cutting into
a corded fabric with the cords relatively closer than can be accomplished by that
method; while the other cloth, when separated, is a plain or other non-piled
fabric, which may be used for an entirely different purpose, or considered as a by-
product.
By this means I am enabled to produce a fabric having a loosely woven back
and yet can cut the pile thereof with an ordinary cutting instrument, as while
the two cloths are together there is provided a sufficiently firm back to resist the
tendency of the point or guide of the cutting knife to penetrate the cloth.
In addition to this I may weave leno or other fancy weaving at the back of
the cloth so as to form openwork or other weaving between the cut pile portions
of the finished article.
The improvements are applicable for the production of this special fabric in
the form of cut cords or pile stripes relatively close together of a continuous or
all over character, or may be varied by interspersion of other kinds of weaving
therein, and other variations in detail may be made, such as in the particular
design and materials employed, without departing from the peculiar character
of the invention.
Dated this 27th day of January 1899.
WILLIAM GADD, C.E.,
64, Barton Arcade, Manchester,
Agent.

page_text: An Improved Woven Fabric suitable for Dress Goods and other
purposes, and the Method of Producing the same.
I, LEVI FISH, of Spa Mill, Marsh Lane, Preston, Cotton Manufacturer, do
hereby declare the nature of this inventien, and in what manner the same is
to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement:-
The invention relates to a novel form of cut weft pile woven fabric suitable
for dress goods and other purposes, and to the method of producing the same,
of the character to be hereinafter described; and which invention constitutes a
further improvement on an invention for which British Letters latent have
been granted to Levi Fish, numbered 14,834 of 1897.
In carrying out my present invention, I arrange dobby, jacquard or equivalent
apparatus, so as, in the process of weaving, to bind two or more cloths together
in such a manner that when the weft pile threads are subsequently cut, on the
surface, with an ordinary velvet cutting instrument, the two or more cloths
will be separated and readily pulled apart.
But, instead of this arrangement of weaving being made so as to produce two
reciprocal fabrics as described in the Specification of the British Letters Patent
above cited, I arrange the weaving of either the upper or lower cloth (when two
cloths only are woven) so as to produce floated weft for cutting into a corded
fabric with the cords relatively closer than can be accomplished by my former
method; while the other or inner cloth, when separated, is a plain woven or
other non-piled fabric, which may be used for an entirely different purpose, or
considered as a by-product. By this means, I am enabled to produce fabrics
having loosely woven backs, and yet can cut the pile thereof with an ordinary
fustian cutting instrument, as, while the two or more cloths are held together, there
is provided by the inner or supplementary cloth a sufficiently firm back to resist
the tendency of the point or guide of the cutting knife to penetrate the cloth, and
so permit of the successful cutting of the pile on the surface.
In addition to this I may weave leno or other fancy weaving at the back of either
the upper or lower cloth so as to form openwork or other weaving between the
cut pile portions of the finished article.
The improvements are applicable for the production of this special fabric in
the form of cut cords or pile stripes relatively close together of a continuous or all
over character, or may be varied by interspersion of other kinds of weaving therein
so as to form bindings or otherwise, and other variations in detail may be made,
such as in the particular design and materials employed, without departing from
the peculiar character of the invention.
It will be seen that, by this invention, I am enabled, subsequently, to cut, by the
ordinary fustian cutting apparatus and knife, a class of floated weft or pile fabrics
which otherwise are impracticable for such treatment on account of their having
no rest or resistance, during the act of cutting for the back of the knife. In all
cases I therefore weave a non-pile cloth either as the upper lower or inner of the
two-fold or three-fold fabric, whose object is to enable the floated weft of the
upper or other cloth or cloths to be cut in a fustian or velvet cutting apparatus
after the same has been woven.
The mode of weaving is varied according to the particular variety of goods
produced, but, in the supplementary or inner cloth of the fabric, the warp yarns
are so actuated that the weft is always passed therethrough to form a plain, or at
least a non-piled cloth, which is only separated from the other portions by the
subsequent cutting operation, and is so woven for the distinct purpose of rendering
such cutting operation practicable; and such supplementary or inner cloth may

page_text: either become a waste or a by-product after the separation thereof, or have another
use found for it of an inferior character to the cloths it renders, by combination,
possible of production.
The invention is applicable to a large number of designs of pattern, but that
the improvements may be better understood I will, by the aid of the accompanying
drawing proceed to describe the same as applied to one particular pattern or form
of cloth, to wit: a cut cord, or pile stripes relatively close together of a continuous
or all over character.
DESCRIPTION OF DRAWING.
The same letters indicate corresponding threads wherever they occur, and
the drawing is a graphic representation, irrespective of dimensions, of a trans-
verse section across the cloth; in which the points a stand for the ends or sections
of warp threads forming the upper of a double fabric, and the points a¹ stand for
like warp threads in the lower of the double fabric; of which those warps indi-
cated by the vertical dotted lines are in this case actuated to form leno weaving,
but which, of course, is not essential. The waved lines b and represent weft
threads passed through forming the ground weaving of the upper of the two
fabrics, while the waved lines and constitute the lower fabric weft threads,
and the lines c form the floated weft threads constituting the pile fabric.
It will be seen that the plain or inner cloth formed by the warps a and the
wefts and are bound to the lower fabric by means of the floating or pile
wefts c, and apparently constitute a composite fabric; but when after weaving
the cloth is stretched in a suitable frame, such as an ordinary fustian cutting
apparatus, and the pile wefts c are cut asunder at the point indicated by the
arrow when the knife is inserted between such pile wefts and the upper or inner
of the two woven fabrics, it will be seen that this upper or inner woven fabric
can be drawn away or clear of the lower woven fabric, leaving such lower fabric
with a cut pile, and of such a character as could not otherwise be cut by means
of a fustian cutting knife; this upper or inner plain fabric forming for the time
being a foundation at the back of the knife to enable cutting to take place.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is:-
1. A compound woven fabric, having weft pile or floated weft portions in the
one cloth or cloths, and provided with a plain woven or other non-pile cloth form-
ing the back of the floated weft of the compound fabric and which cloth, while
serving the purpose of resisting the back of the fustian cutting knife, is separated
from the rest part of the compound fabric by the act of cutting the pile or floated
weft of the other cloth or cloths, for the purpose and in manner substantially
as herein shown and described.
2. The method of manufacture of two or more-fold weft pile or other floated
weft fabrics of loose texture (and which require the pile or floated weft portions
thereof to be cut) by weaving them as a compound fabric with a plain or non-
pile cloth as a backing to form a resistance to the cutting knife, and which cloth
or backing is afterwards separated from the compound fabric by the act of cutting
the weft pile or floated weft of the other cloth or cloths, for the purpose and
in manner substantially as herein shown and described.
Dated this 12th day of October 18900
WILLIAM GADD, C.E.,
64, Barton Arcade, Manchester,
Agent for Applicant.