Improvements in or applicable to Sewing Machines for Automatically Producing and Applying Edgings of Arched Form.
Year: 1896

page_text: Date of Application, 10th Aug., 1896-Accepted, 3rd Oct., 1896
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in or applicable to Sewing Machines for Automatically
Producing and Applying Edgings of Arched Form.
I JULIUS KÖHLER of Limbach, Saxony, Germany, Sewing Machine Maker, do
hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be
performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:-
My said invention relates to the formation and the securing by sewing to the
fabric to which it is to be applied of an edging formed of one or more lines of
crochet loops.
Reference is hereinafter made to the accompanying drawings which are to be
considered as forming part of the present specification.

page_text: guide & describes a curve about the needles b and c. According to the ratio of the
bevel wheels d d to each other the guide k goes through one cycle during a definite
number of rotations of the sewing machine shaft. In Figs. 1 and 2 the ratio of the
gearing is taken as 1:4 so that the sewing machine shaft revolves four times or the
machine makes four stitches before the guide motion repeats its action. Supposing
the sewing needle to have completed the stitches 1 and 2 (Fig. 6) and likewise the
selfacting needle to have made the corresponding loops the guide would be in the
position k¹. On the next descent of the needle bar the sewing needle has
reached and the selfacting needle has reached a that is to say just in front of
the crochet loops when both stitch 3 and also the loop embrace the crochet loops.
During the ascent of the needles the guide travels in the direction of the arrow z
and reaches the position ². The fabric has advanced a stitch length and the
Deedles enter at y and y' in order to again by stitch 4 and a loop secure the crochet
loops partly to the fabric and partly to each other. The guide stands now
until two more stitches and two more loops have been made when the cycle of
operations recommences.
If the selfacting needle is removed or its thread is omitted the edging Fig. 7 is
produced. The arches of this are smaller if the tension of the crochet loops is
correspondingly increased or fewer of them are produced.
The formation of the crochet loops (Fig. 8) takes place simultaneously with the
sewing. The apparatus for producing these is of the usual construction and is
driven from the sewing machine by means of a cord or gearing. In this apparatus
selfacting point or crochet needles may be used.
The arrangement of the looping apparatus with selfacting needles is generally as
follows.
The shaft m Figs. 1 and 2 actuates (through a disc cam n and a rod n¹) the needle
pusher n² which is grooved for the reception of the needles.
According to the number of crochet loops to be produced one or more selfacting
needles are used parallel to each other.
A second cam p' operates the thread guide p which feeds a separate thread to
each needle whereby loops separated from each other are produced.
For drawing off the loops the two rollers 9 q' are used. The front one of these
is driven by a worm and worm wheel 92 93 and corresponding bevel wheels q* 9°
from the shaft m. The loops pass to a holder B in order to be led direct to the
guide k.
Instead of selfacting needles the ordinary point needles such as are used in
knitting u (Fig. 9) with a heel v may be used preferably for very fine crochet loops.
The thread guide lays the thread (just as in the case of selfacting needles) over the
point needle and while this retires the heel v presses the needle point against
the needle shank (Fig. 10) and the thread is drawn as a new loop through the
previous one.
A crochet needler (Fig. 11) which turns in forming the loop can also be used
particularly for large or heavy crochet loops. In this case the needle shaft r having
a projection passes through the hub of a pinions with which gears a rack s
operated to and fro in a suitable manner by a cam and lever. The projection of
the needle lies in a slot in the hub of the pinion and as soon as the latter rotates
the crochet needle rrotates with it. For sliding the crochet needle backwards and
forwards a sector wo is fixed on the needle. The curve of the sector engages in the
groove of the needle pusher n (see also Fig. 1). When the thread is laid over the
crochet needle the hook thereof is turned aside but as soon as the needle retreats
and the thread goes through the previous loop the hook of the needle turns
downwards (Fig. 12).
I wish it to be understood that my said invention is not limited to any particular
kind of sewing machine or machine or shape of needle for producing the crochet
loops and that those herein before described are shown only as examples of the
method of putting my said invention into practice.

page_text: Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is.-
1. A sewing machine for automatically forming and securing an edging consisting
of one or more lines of crochet loops in arched forms such as in Figs. 6 and 7
substantially as herein before set forth and shown.
2. A sewing machine with the adjuncts as described for producing crochet loops
(such as in Fig. 8) simultaneously with the sewing and automatically securing
one or more rows thereof to the fabric in arched forms such as in Figs. 6 and 7
substantially as set forth.
3. In a sewing machine the combination with a sewing needle 6 of a selfacting
needle c for the purpose of securing an arched edging such as in Fig. 6 by a line of
loops E substantially as set forth and shown.
Dated this 8th day of August 1896.
E. T. WHITELOW, A.M. Inst. C.E.,
70 Deansgate, Manchester, Agent for the Applicant.