Improvements in the Mode of and Apparatus for Embroidering on Hats or other Hollow Objects of Felt, Straw, or other Stiff Material.
Year: 1885

page_text: Improvements in the Mode of and Apparatus for Embroidering
on Hats or other Hollow Objects of Felt, Straw, or other
Stiff Material.
I PETER JENSEN Fel Inst P.A of 33 Chancery Lane in the County of Middlesex
do hereby declare the nature of said invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MODE,
OF AND APPARATUS FOR EMBROIDERING ON HATS OR OTHER HOLLOW OBJECTS OF
FELT STRAW OR OTHER STIFF MATERIAL (a communication to me from abroad by
Edouard Loth of Warsaw Poland) and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:
"
The embroidering of hats by machinery has up till the present time only been
undertaken with soft unfinished felt hats, because the hat.whilst being embroidered
is laid on the flat table of the machine and for this purpose had to be bent over
and creased in different ways, which manipulations cannot be carried out without
damage to the hat.
The embroidering of stiff hats by hand is also impracticable, on the one hand the
work is too dear and on the other damage to the hat cannot be prevented. In
order to provide stiff hats with embroidery.or fancy stitching cheaply, whether
the hat be made of felt, straw or other stiff material, the embroidery must neces-
sarily be carried out on a machine. Such a machine is the so called. Bonnaz
machine.
But in order that the embroidering of stiff hats may be carried out without
damage to the bats certain alterations are necessary in the Bonnaz machine.
First of all it is necessary that the table of the machine should be made as
narrow as possible, so that the hat may be pushed onto the table or stitch plate for
the purpose of embroidering the sides of the hat. Further it is necessary that in
order to be able to embroider the crown of the bat, the stitch plate of the machine
should be placed at a sufficient height over the table. This height would be
chosen between 3 and 7 inches as ladies hats are sometimes of the latter
height.
The Bonnaz embroidering machine altered in this manner is shown in Figures 1
and 2 of the accompanying drawing being respectively side view and plan with
upper part removed.
This machine is specially suitable for embroidering the sides of stiff hats. The
table a of the machine has the form of a narrow tongue, the breadth of which is
somewhat larger than the diameter of the stitch plate. The mechanism situated
under the table plate for working the hook is protected in front by a suitable pro-
tecting shield b from contact with the hat to be embroidered. In order to bring

page_text: a
the hat with the top thereof as close as possible to the stitch plate, the endless
screw e, which moves the hook, is placed inverted with its head e¹ towards the
back. The crank handle d for directing the. feeder is put back as far as possible
in order to prevent it from touching the hat. Lastly the tongue formed table a is
supported by a bracket f in order to give the same the necessary firmness and
stability. The pulley k for the embroidering thread is removed sufficiently far
behind in order to facilitate the pushing up of a pointed hat on the tongue as far
as the crown. The dotted lines show a Tyrolese hat in position.
In this machine the sides of the hat from the brim to the crown, and the brim
itself. may be embroidered.
The crown is embroidered on the machine shown in Figure 3 in part sectional
side view, Figure 4 being a plan of the table.
The table of this machine is also in this case made tongue-shaped in front, the
length of the tongue is however not so great as in the preceding machine. The
stitch plate is here situated about 84 to 7 inches above the. surface of the table
and in accordance therewith the whole upper part of the machine is raised. The
upper part of the machine is fixed on a foot A, whilst the stitch plate rests on a
pillar B in which the hook g is also situated, the length of which corresponds to
the height of the pillar B. As shown in Figure 3 the hook g has bearings in two
places at gl and g² in order to attain a quiet. motion for the same. Figure 3º is a
separate vertical sectional view of the pillar B, and figure 4 a plan section of
same.
The pillar B is suitably curved at the sides in order to bring the hats as near as
possible so as to facilitate the approach of the needle to the sides of the hat. As
further in embroidering the felt small fine hairs in the form of fine dust come into
the hook, small side holes or breaks h are formed in the sides of the pillar B,
which allow the dust at once to go out of the hole in which the book is
situated.
In both machines the table on which the machine stands is cut out round the
tongue a so-that the hat in question can be turned round to all sides without the
rim touching the table. It is most convenient to do away with the table in front
of the machine wholly.
After the hat is embroidered the same is completely finished and requires no
stiffening or other finishing.
The described machines may also be used for embroidering hollow bodies of stiff
material of every kind.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of said invention'
and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I claim as
the invention communicated to me is .
First. The embroidering of stiff hats or stiff hollow bodies generally by means of
the Bonnaz embroidering machine in such a manner that the sides are first
embroidered on a machine with a tongue shaped table and then the crown
embroidered on a machine with a raised stitch plate, substantially as described.
Second. In order to be able to embroider stiff bats on the Bonnaz embroidering
machine, the arrangement on such a machine of. a tongue shaped table and cut out
table plate also a pillar carrying the stitch plate with a lengthened hook,
substantially as described and shown.
Dated this 20th day of August 1885.