A Novel Method or System of Preparing Patterns to Cut Bodices From for Ladies' Wear.
Year: 1892

page_text: Date of Application, 4th Aug., 1892
Complete Specification Left, 4th May, 1893-Accepted. 4th Aug., 1893
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
A Novel Method or System of Preparing Patterns to Cut Bodices
From for Ladies' Wear.
I, EMILIE BEAULEDUE-CAMPBELL, of 6 Jarratt Street, Hull, Yorkshire,
Dressmaker, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to an invariable system of correctly measuring and fitting
dresses cut after the French method with biassed darts.
Any figure can be fitted without regard to size or shape.
For the purpose of my invention, I employ a made up and numbered bodice
provided with an elastic band horizontally inserted across the shoulders at back,
above the darts in front, and perpendicularly placed in front under arm seam in
the sides.
By means of these elastic insertions, the bodice measured with a steel ribbon and
numbered beforehand is made to stretch to any required length and width, and
then by taking measure of the expansion of the elastic when on the figure, and adding
same to that of bodice, the correct measure of figure is ascertained; this done,
the dress is cut from a numbered flat pattern exactly corresponding to the bodice.
in size and shape with French darts and biassed fronts, this pattern is invariable in
its shape, lines, or seams, for any size or shape of figure.
Different lengths are obtained by simply throwing out or taking in shoulder
lines to requisite amount for length and doing same with front-under-arm seams
for width but always maintaining the same curve or angle.
For very large sizes an extra front-side-piece the exact copy of the first is added
as well as wider turnings in the arm-holes for width of back and chest. Same
system is used for cutting and fitting jackets.
For evening bodices, French cut fronts with seams from shoulders and cut on
the same invariable system are substituted for darted fronts.
For children, dartless fronts and one side piece only are used.
1000
H. GARDNER,
Patent Agent, 166, Fleet Street, London,
Agent for the said Emilie Beauledue-Campbell.,
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
A Novel Method or System of Preparing Patterns to Cut Bodices
From for Ladies' Wear.
I Emilié Beauledue-Campbell, of 6 Jarrett Street, Hull in the County
of York, Dressmaker, do hereby declare the nature of this invention, and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in
and by the following statement :-
This invention relates to an invariable system of correctly measuring and fitting
dresses, and cut after the French method with biassed darts by which any figure
can be fitted without regard to size or shape.
DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS.

page_text: Fig. 2. shows loose sleeve with slots having elastic in to allow it to extend.
Fig. 5. is back pattern of ladies bodice.
Fig. 6. is back side-piece of ladies bodice.
Fig. 7. is front side piece of ladies bodice.
Fig. 8. is front of bodice.
Fig. 9. is front pattern of childs dress.
Fig. 10. is side piece of childs dress.
Fig. 11. is back of childs dress.
Fig. 12. is a pattern of ladies sleeve.
Fig. 13. is front pattern of ladies evening bodice.
Fig. 14. is side front of ladies evening bodice.
Fig. 15. represents tabs at armholes numbered and graduated.
Fig. 16. represents tabs at neck numbered and graduated.
This invention relates to a novel method of correctly measuring and fitting
dresses with a specially prepared measuring apparatus and with one invariable
pattern, which will fit every figure regardless of size or shape without being
submitted to any alteration in shape or form.
For the purpose of my invention I employ a measuring apparatus consisting of
a made up bodice Fig. 1 and a detached sleeve Fig. 2. cut from aforesaid pattern
in some stout material, and made to contract or expand by means of loose graduated
extension seams or fold A across the chest in front, shoulders in back, and in front
underarm seam at the sides. These seams are worked by means of a spring buckle
Figs. 3 and 4, consisting of five or more bars of metal BB, CC, and D or the
like set in a narrow cup E at each end. The centre bar D provided with small
teeth or cogs on each side is placed on a level with the outer bars. On each side
of the centre bar D a flat bar B is sunk to the level of the cup E to admit at each
side a loose bar C having a spiral spring C¹ attached at each end to allow it to
give way.
The extension seams or flaps across the chest back and underarms consists of a
double seam cut four inches or more in width ruled and numbered at quarter of an inch
intervals, and worked by means of the spring buckles set on the seams; the bodice
being thus made to contract or expand to fit well on to any figure, the buckles, and
loose seams on which the work combining to allow the bodice to be let out or taken
in to suit the figure being measured.
The measure is taken from back of collar bone to the centre of waist for length
and straight round waist and bust for size.
This spring buckle is placed between the cloth of the extended seams from top,
and by pulling the cloth a piece comes up at each side of the bar D, with pins fixed
on it, when the cloth is let go the spiral spring C₁ forces the bars C against the
pinned bar D which holds the cloth or material tight when required. By means of
these seams and buckles, the bodice when on the figure can be made to expand or
contract to any required size, enabling the operator to ascertain the correct measure-
ments of same by noting the numbers on the extension seam.
This apparatus is also proveded with numbered and graduated tabes (Figs. 15
and 16) at the neck and armboles and are shewn attached to made up bodice Fig. 1.
These tabs are detachable or not and are made to expand or contract by means of
steel or elastic bands being run through at intervals, this allows the armhole to
expand if attached as at Fig. 1, if separate they are simply fitted up to the arm-
hole and hooked on. These tabs are used for measuring different sizes of necks
and armholes, the tabs of armholes being set with hooks for hooking the sleeve on
when measuring the size of arm.
The sleeve is set at the top with a series of numbered slots which consist of folds
taken up in the material through which a steel or elastic band passes, this elastic or
the like being for the purpose of contracting the top of the sleeve to the size of the
different armholes, so that by booking the sleeve, (which has eyelets attached) to
hooks on the armholes, the proper length of elbow may be obtained.

page_text: The sleeve has double extension seams or flaps F upon which are marked lines,
preferably half an inch apart, both above and below the elbow Fig. 2. to indicate
the size of arm. On the lines eyelets are placed at suitable distances apart, through
which a long piece of steel, a hat pin or the like (with or without a head) may be
passed to hold the extension seams when sleeve is expanded and numbered lines
are drawn across the wrist of sleeve for length measure.
A thin numbered steel collar turned up top and bottom at one end to form a
groove to slip the other end into, is employed for measuring the size of neck.
When the measure is correctly taken, the dress is cut from the numbered flat
pattern, (made of thick paper or any other suitable substance) exactly corresponding
to the made up bodice in shape and size, and cut according to the French system
with straight fronts and biassed darts, Fig. 8. this pattern is invariable in its shape,
lines or seams for any size or shape of figure.
Different sizes are obtained by simply throwing out or taking in shoulder lines
to required amount for length, and front underarm seam for width, but always
maintaining the same curves or angles in every case.
The extension or throwing out of seams for length and width, may be done by
simply adding extra lines on the pattern, see Fig. 8.
For very large sizes, an extra front side-piece, the exact copy of the first is
added.
For evening bodices, French cut fronts with seams from shoulders, and cut on
the same invariable system, are substituted for darted fronts.
For children, dartless fronts, back, and side-piece only are used.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of this inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is :-
1st. The employment of a measuring apparatus consisting of a made up bodice
with numbered loose seams A across chest, back and down sides, and spring buckle
employed for working such seams substantially as shown and described.
2nd. Measuring sleeve with numbered slots and lines, eyelet-holes and pins
substantially as set forth.
3rd. The shape of an invariable pattern to fit all figures alike, for ladies day
and evening dress bodices, and for childrens dresses, without being subjected to any
kind of alteration in shape as shown and described.
4th. Spring buckle having rods and a bar with points, and spiral and other
springs substantially as shown and described.
5th. Numbered and grooved metal collar for measuring size of neck.
DL: Th: M-1002
JOHN E. WALSH,
Savile Street, Hull, and Crossley Street, Halifax
Agent for the Applicant.
JOHN E. WALSH,
Savile Street, Hull, and Crossley Street, Halifax
Agent for the Applicant.