Improvements in Button-hole Mechanism for Sewing Machines.
Year: 1888

page_text: Improvements in Button-hole Mechanism for Sewing Machines.
I HARRY M. ESSINGTON of Cainden, New Jersey, United States of America,
Inventor do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement:-
The invention comprises a button hole finishing machine adapted to form a stitch
at the end of a button hole, and an overlying row of stitches over the said stitch at a
right angle thereto.
In the accompanying drawings
Figure 1 represents a side elevation of a button hole finishing machine, embodying
my invention.
Figure 2 represents a partial top or plan view, and a partial horizontal section
thereof.
Figure 3 represents a partial end view and partial vertical section thereof, on the
line ເບິ່ງ ເບິ່ງ of Figure 1.
Figure 4 represents a view of a detached portion, including the clutch, switch cam
and adjacent parts.
Figure
Figure 2.
represents a vertical section of a detached portion on line o,, of
Similar letters of reference indicate corresponding parts, in the several figures.
A represents the driving shaft of the needle bar which is mounted on the arm B,
and carrying the clutch C, the switch-cam pulley D, and excentric E.
In the switch-cam of the pulley D is a cam follower F to which is pivotted the
lever G, the latter having its axis H on the side of the vertical limb B' of the
arm B.

page_text: :
:.
Encircling the excentric E is a yoke J of a lever K, the latter.being pivoted to the
side of the limb B¹ at a right angle to the lever G, and carrying at its lower end the
pivoted pawl L, whose point engages with the sliding rack bar M which is supported
on the table N of the machine the said rack bar having on its side the projection P
which is adapted to bear against the side of a bar Q which is pivoted to the table N,
and also engages with a shoulder R on the inner side of said bar.
To the end of the bar Qopposite to the axis, is pivoted a link S to which are pivoted
the parallel arms T, U, V, which extend in the longitudinal direction of the machine
above the table N. To said link S is also pivoted the vertical lever W whose axis is
at the top of the arm B, said lever being so disposed that it may be engaged by the
shoulder X on the horizontal sliding bar Y, which is guided on the arm B and has
one end bent to engage with the loose pulley of the clutch C.
Eagaging with the bar Y is an elbow lever Z which is pivoted to the limb B¹ of the
arm B, and connected with a foot treadle, whereby the said slide may be moved, and
the clutch C locked for starting the machine.
Engaging with the bar Y is a vertical lever A' which has its axis on limb B¹, and
is pivoted to the horizontally arranged link C², the latter being pivoted to the lower
end of the lever G.
Pivoted to the bar Y is a lever D¹ whose axis is on the limb B¹, and has its lower
end so disposed that it is adjacent to the heel end of the pawl L, said heel being
bevelled, whereby when the said lever D¹ is operated in one direction by the sliding
bar Y, the lever D¹ comes in contact with said heel, so that the pawl is raised clear of
the rack bar M.
To the lower end of the lever G are pivoted the parallel rods E', F1 which extend
in the longitudinal direction of the machine, the rod E¹ having collars G¹ which occupy
positions on opposite sides of the elbow lever H¹. The rod F has also collars J¹
which occupy positions on opposite sides of the lever K³, said levers H', K' being
pivoted to the table N.
The arm T has a pin L₁ which projects under the rod E', and the arm U has a pin
M which projects under the rod F¹.
The ends of the arms T, U, have feet a, b, respectively, which rest at times on the
block N and block P¹ respectively the said blocks being secured to the table N, and
having their upper faces bevelled, as seen in figure 1.
The forward end of the arm V rests on a block Q¹ which is secured to the table N,
and having its upper face bevelled, said end of the arm being beneath the dogs Ri
which are hung on the upper end of the rocking arm S¹, the latter being mounted
on the side of the table N, and having attached to it the connecting rod T which is
pivoted to the crank of a rock shaft U which is mounted beneath the table N, and
receives motion from any suitable member of the machine.
The dogs are adapted to engage with a rack bar V₁ secured to the slide W
which is fitted between guides Y¹ on the table N the said slide carrying guides Z' for
a slide A², it being noticed that the guides are at a right angle to each other, whereby
the slides are permitted to move in directions at a right angle to each other.
The elbow fever H' is connected with the slide W by means of a link B³, and the
lever K is connected with the slide A2 by means of a link (2.
To the slide A is connected the clamping mechanism for the fabric containing the
button hole, and consisting of the base plate D2 which rests on the table N and feet E2
on said plate D², between which plate and feet the fabric is clamped, the plate having
an opening adjacent to the throat c in the table for the passage of the needle, it
being, observed that the sewing is accomplished as usual in sewing machines. The
feet E are attached to the ends of springs or spring plates F2 which are secured to
the slide A2 and adapted to be pressed by the action of a rotary cam or eccentric
head G which is mounted on ears H2 connected with the slide A2, and provided with
a handle, whereby by rotating said head in one direction the springs F are pressed
downwardly thus forcing the feet E against the plate D2, causing the fabric to be held
in a reliable manner. By rotating the head in the opposite direction, the springs and
consequently the feet E² are released and the fabric may be removed.

page_text: H² represents a guide which enters the button hole and prevents shifting thereof
the said guide consisting of the flap strip J2 which rises from the base plate D and
the pin K which rises from a plate L2 the latter being placed on the plate D2, and
baving a slot d through which passes a screw M which is fitted to the plate D' whereby
the plate I may be removed and the strip J2 and pin K2 set nearer to or further from
each other, thus adjusting the guide to button holes of different lengths.
A spring N is connected with the table N and rack bar M for restoring the latter
to its normal position. Springs P2 are connected with the sliding bar Y and the
arm B for restoring the said bar to its normal position. A spring R³ is connected
with the bar Y and lever W for moving the latter and connected parts, as will be
hereinafter set forth.
On the table N is a bar S2 which is slotted and connected with the said table by a
scrow T³ and adapted to be moved in relation to the end of the rack bar M, in order
to increase or decrease the throw of the latter, whereby the motion of the slide Wi
may be adjusted so as to cause a greater or less number of stitches to be formed on
the fabric in the transverse direction thereof.
The connecting rod T is formed in sections, the ends of the middle section thereof
having right and left screw threads, and entering corresponding threaded ends of
socket pieces T one of which pieces is attached to the rocking arm S', and the other
piece with the crank of the shaft U¹, it being evident that by rotating said middle
section, the length of the rod may be adjusted in order to advance or set back the
dogs R¹ and thus cause the latter to take more or less teeth of the rack bar V¹ and so
adjust the travel of the slide W1 in forming the second row of stitches.
The dogs Rare held in contact with the rack bar V₁ by means of springs U³ as
will be seen in Figure 3.
The operation is as follows.
The parts being in the piston shown in the drawings the rod E¹ having its collars G¹
engaged with its lever H' and the rod F¹ having collars J' raised clear of the lever K'.
The arm V is elevated by means of the block Q¹ whereby the dogs R¹ are
disengaged from the rack bar V₁ of the slide W. The lever Z is depressed by the
treadle, whereby the bar Y is moved, thus coupling the clutch and causing the
operation of the cam follower F and oscillations of the lever G, whereby the rod E¹
operates the lever H' and transverse motions are imparted to the slide W₁.
As the slide A² is carried by the said slide Wand the clamping mechanism is
attached to the slide A2, the fabric is carried in transverse directions, whereby a row
of stitches is formed on the fabric at the end of the button hole at a right angle
thereto.
The oscillating lever K causes the pawl or dog L to engage tooth by tooth of the
rack bar M, whereby the latter is advanced. When the projection P of the rack bar
clears the shoulder Ŕ of the lever Q, the latter is no longer controlled by the rack bar,
and the said lever under the action of the spring R connected with the lever Wis
immediately moved towards the needle end of the machine, and the arms T, U are
advanced so that the arm T ascends the block N' and its pin L' thereby raises the
rod E' clear of the lever H. The arm U however descends its block P', whereby the
pin M permits the rod F¹ to lower thus placing the collar J¹ in position to engage
with the lever K¹. As the said lever now receives motion from the rod F', the
slide A is reciprocated and the fabric is moved in a longitudinal direction of the
machine backwards and forwards, it being noticed that the lever H' is at rest.
As
the rod V is advanced with the arins T U the forward end of the said rod V descends,
the block Q thus allowing the dogs to drop and engage with the rack bar V¹. As the
crank shaft U¹ rocks and swinging motions are communicated to the arm S¹, the
dogs R' move the rack bar V₁ tooth by tooth, and consequently moving the slide W
in the transverse direction of the machine, while the slide A² continues its motions in
a longitudinal direction to the machine, and thus an overlying row of stitches is
formed on the previously formed row of stitches at a right angle thereto, thus
finishing the button hole.

page_text: The bar Y has a pin or lug V2 whereby it may engage with the lever A¹ as has
been stated, said lever being connected by the link with the lever G and oscillating
with the latter.
When the machine is to be stopped the treadle is let go, thereby releasing the elbow
lever Z which bears against the stud V3 on the bar or slide Y. This brings the
springs Pinto operation, the effect of which is the motion of said bar or slide Y to
the right, thus disengaging or uncoupling the clutch. This is occasioned when the
lever A does not abut against the pin V2 which occurs once in every two revolutions
of the driving shaft.
Now when the cam follower is in the side of the switch cam towards the needle,
the upper end of the lever A¹ abuts against the pin V2, and thereby prevents the
motion of the bar Y towards the clutch. When the cam follower is in the opposite
side of the switch cam, the upper end of the lever A¹ is removed from the pin Va
whereby the said bar is not controlled by the said lever A¹ and it moves to its full
extent, thus uncoupling the clutch. The shoulder W' on the bar Y then drops into
the recess X².
The lever W is also moved, thus withdrawing the arms T U V the effect of which is
to lower the rod E', raise the rod F' and also operate the arın V, and raise the dogs R¹
clear of the rack bar V. Simultaneously therewith the bar Y uncouples the clutch C
as has been stated, thus stopping the machine.
The lever W also moves the lever Q in a direction from the rack bar M whereby
the latter returns to its first position owing to the action of the spring N².
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I wish it understood
that I claim.
First. A. machine for finishing button holes provided with a slide having a clamp
and a guide for holding the material with the button holes therein, stitch-forming
mechanism, means connected with the driving shaft and the said slide for transmitting
reciprocating, longitudinal and transverse motions to the said slide whereby an under
row of stitches and an overlaying row at right angles thereto may be made by the
continuous action of the machine at the unfinished end of the button hole, substantially
as described.
Second. The lever K carrying the pawl L which engages with the rack bar M
having a side projection P, and the lever D' which is adapted to bear upon the heel
of said pawl, in combination with the lever Q having the shoulder R, the rising and
falling rods E, F¹ the levers K¹, H and the two slides W1, A2 which are movable in
directions at a right angle to each other, and carrying the clamp for the fabric
containing a button hole, substantially as described.
Third. The rack bar M in combination with the adjusting bar T³, substantially as
described.
Fourth. The arms T, U, V, and connected lever W, the sliding bar Y and spring R',
the rising and falling rods E' F, the pivoted lever connected with arms, and the
inclined blocks N, PT Q¹ combined and operating substantially as described.
Fifth. The slides W₁ A2 moving in directions at a right angle to each other, and
the rack bar V' connected with the said slide Win combination with the dogs R¹,
the rocking arm S₁ connecting rod and crank shaft substantially as described.
Sixth. The rocking arm S¹ and crank shaft U¹ in combination with the connecting
rod T which has right and left screw threads on its ends and the attaching screw
threaded pieces T which receive said end, whereby the said rod T¹ is adjustable in
length, substantially as described.
Seventh. In a button hole machine, a guide for the button hole made adjustable in
length, substantially as described.
Eighth. A clamp for a button hole having a guide to enter the button hole,
consisting of an upright strip attached to the base plate of said clamp, and an upright
pin attached to another plate, said plates being adjustably connected whereby the
guide is adjustable in length, substantially as described.

page_text: Ninth. The sliding bar Y in combination with the lever A, the link C¹, the
arms E, F with collars, the levers K'H' which are embraced by said collars, the
slides W, A movable at a right angle to each other, connected with the said
levers K', H the lever W, both levers A¹ and W being engaged by the sliding bar Y
and the rods T, U, with pins which engage with said arms E, F, and the blocks with
inclined faces on which the said rods bear, whereby the arms É¹, Fi may be alternately
raised and lowered, substantially as described.
Dated this with lov of Enbrvov 1988
F
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
45, Southampton Buildings, London,
Agents for the Applicant.