CERTAIN IMPROVE- MENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FIGURED OR ORNAMENTED LACE OR NET AND OTHER FABRICS
Year: 1844

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, JOHN
FISHER the younger, of Radford Works, in the Parish of Radford, in the.
County of Nottingham, Gentleman, and JAMES GIBBONS, of New Radford, in
the said Parish of Radford, Machinist, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her:
Letters Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date at West-
minster, the Seventh day of December, in the eighth year of Her reign,.
did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto us, the said
John Fisher and James Gibbons, Her especial licence, full power, sole privi-
lege and authority, that we, the said John Fisher and James Gibbons, our;
exors, adiñors, and assigns, or such others as we, the said John Fisher and
James Gibbons, our exors, adñiors, or assigns, should at any time agree with,
and no others, from time to time and at all times during the term of years
therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend,
within England, Wales and the Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, in all
Her Majesty's Colonies and Plantations abroad, and in the Isles of Man,
Jersey, Guernsey, Alderney, and Sark, our Invention of "CERTAIN IMPROVE-
MENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FIGURED OR ORNAMENTED LACE OR NET AND OTHER
FABRICS;" in which said Letters Patent is contained a proviso that we, the
said John Fisher and James Gibbons, or one of us, shall cause a particular
description of the nature of our said Invention, and in what manner the same
is to be performed, to be inrolled in Her said Majesty's High Court of

page_text: Chancery within six calendar months next and immediately after the date
of the said in part recited Letters Patent, as in and by the same, reference
being thereunto had, will more fully and at large appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, we, the said
John Fisher and James Gibbons, do hereby declare that the nature of our
said Invention, and the manner in which the same is to be performed, are fully
described and ascertained in and by the following statement thereof, reference
being had to the Drawings hereunto annexed, and to the figures and letters
marked thereon, that is to say:-
Our Invention consists, first, of improvements in the manufacture of
figured or ornamented lace or net or other fabrics, by working ornamental
figures or designs on lace or net or other fabrics by machinery, in such
manner that two threads are caused to loop together, one passing through the
fabric, the other looping with that thread, the two together producing orua-
ments of loop work on the surface of the fabrics, as hereafter explained.
Secondly, our Invention consists of improvements in the manufacture of
lace or net or other fabrics, by causing threads or gymp or yarn or fabrics to
be sewn in pattern on the surface of such fabrics by machinery, as hereafter
described'.
Thirdly, our Invention consists of.. improvements in manufacturing figured
or ornamented lace or net and other fabrics, by causing the machinery or
apparatus (used in producing tambour work or other ornamental needle work
on the surfaces of such fabrics after they have been made) to be governed or
controlled by Jacquard or perforated cards or plates or surfaces, having trans-
posable risers and fallers thereon, so as to give varied movements to the
apparatus or machinery employed to produce the looped or other needle work,
as herein described..
Fourthly, our Invention consists of improvements in the manufacture of
figured or ornamented lace or net, in twist lace machinery, by causing the
machinery to be so worked that two or more warp threads may be used when
making lace or net, the tops and.bottoms of the meshes of which are produced
by the crossing or traversing of the bobbin or carriage threads.
And fifthly, our Invention consists of improvements in the manufacture of
figured or ornamented net or lace, by causing twist lace machinery to be so
arranged and worked that the warp threads shall be governed by independent
instruments passing amongst them actuated by Jacquard or perforated cards
combined with the use of a suitable arrangement of apparatus to cause the
working of the bobbin or carriage threads to be governed or controlled by
Jacquard or perforated cards.

page_text: And in order that our Invention may be most fully understood and readily
carried into effect, we will proceed to explain the means pursued by us in
performing the various improvements above mentioned.
•
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS A.
The nature of the various views shown by these Drawings being written
thereon, it will not be necessary to repeat the same here. This machinery is
arranged for producing ornamental patterns or designs on lace or nets or other
fabrics by the use of two threads looping into each other, one of such threads
passing through the fabric and looping with the other so as to produce looped
ornamental work on the surface of the fabric. The fabric to be ornamented
is held in a frame, which is so arranged as to be moved in varied directions,
so. that although the needles carrying the threads to be used retain the same
locality in the machine, the loops produced thereby will be in pattern according
as the fabric is moved to the needles. a, a, is the framing of the machinery,
the nature of which will readily be-traced by a workman, and motion is com-
municated to the various parts of the machine by the crank shaft b, which is
put in motion by a workman by means of crank handles b', or rotatory motion
may be communicated to the machinery by other convenient means. On the
axis b is fixed a cog wheel 63, which takes into and drives the cog wheel 6*,
which is on an axis 6'. The wheel takes into and drives the cog wheel b³,
which is fixed on the cam shaft c. And we will first describe the nature of and
means of getting motion to the frame which carries the fabric, and then we
will describe the nature of and means of giving motion to the needles and
other instrument for working the two threads used in forming the loops
according to the patterns desired. The lace or other fabric is to be placed on
the two rollers d, d, which are so arranged that the fabric may be. wound off
one on to the other at intervals, in order to bring forward fresh surfaces to be
ornamented. The bearings d¹, d, of the rollers d, slide on bars e, e, one at
each end of the machine, the bearings being retained and guided by dove-
tailed grooves sliding on dovetails formed on the bars e, e, in order to move
the fabric under the ornamenting instruments in a direction to and from the
front of the machine. At the left-hand end of the roliers d there is a bar f,
on the axes or necks of, the rollers, allowing the axes or necks to turn freely
in holes formed through the bar, and this bar is constantly drawn towards the
right-hand end of the machine by a weight f, on the cord f, which is guided
by a pulley fs and made fast to the barf; hence the rollers & will at all times move
towards the right-hand end of the machine when permitted to do so, and the
movement of the rollers towards the left-hand end of the machine is caused by the

page_text: an
screw g, at the end of which is fixed the bar g', which is guided at its ends by
guides g, carried by brackets as shewn. The screw 9 slides freely through
opening in the bearing g³ fixed to the framing of the machine. At the right-
hand end thereof, on the end of the screw, is placed a screw nut h, having
affixed to it two ratchet wheels h', the teeth of which are set in opposite ways,
so that by suitable driving apparatus motion may be communicated in opposite
direction, from time to time, as the pattern may require, to move the cylinders
or rollers d, and consequently the fabric. The screw nut h turns freely in the
bearing, as shown. The rollers or cylinders d, d, are moved to and from
the back of the machine so as from time to time to change the position of the
fabric as the pattern may require, by means of the screws i, which are affixed
to the back bearing . On each of the screws i is placed a bevilled toothed
wheel, having a female screw through the nave or boss thereof; hence, when'
the wheel is turned in one or other direction, the screw, and consequently
the bearing to which it is fixed, will be moved to and fro, and consequently the
rollers or cylinders d, there being a similar arrangement of parts at each end
of the rollers d for moving them to and from the front of the machine; and
the axes or necks of the two rollers or cylinders d at the right-hand end are
caused to move together by there being a bar f similar to that at the other
end, as above described. But the barf at this end carries a click or catch to
enter the teeth of a ratchet wheel fixed on the axis or neck of the front
roller d, and the back roller has a friction band and spring j for retaining it in
any position, as is shown; and the manner of unwinding the fabric off the
back roller on to the front roller d will be hereafter described. It will
readily be understood by a workman that the rollers d, d, holding the fabric
distended, will have to be moved after each stitch or loop has been made,
in order that the needle A may enter a distance (according to the size of the
loops) equal to that between one loop and another, and the rollers will be moved
in a longitudinal direction, or from back to front, according to the direction in
which the next loop is required to be produced on the surface of the fabric, and
this is determined by the pattern surface employed controlling the movements
communicated to the cylinders by means of the screws g and i, as we will now
proceed to describe-k is an axis or shaft having fixed on its right-hand end
two ratchet wheels, ', the teeth of which are set in opposite directions, and
they receive motion from drivers, as hereafter explained, so as to cause the
axis or shaft to revolve in different directions at different times, and thus to
cause the rollers d, d, to be moved to or from the back of the machine by
means of the bevelled toothed wheels taking into and driving the bevelled
tooth wheels at each end of the machine. And motion is communicated to

page_text: the ratchet wheels on the screw g and on the axis k by means of drivers I, l, and
by means of the clawkers m, m', and these clawkers and drivers are carried by
the bar n, they being respectively pin-jointed to the bar n, and this bar n has
lateral projections n', which pass through and slide in guides n³; and it will be
seen that the drivers 1,, which give motion to the ratchet wheels on the screw g,
are connected together by a link , so that only one can be in action at any time,
and they may be both held out of action; and the two clawkers which give motion
when required to the ratchet wheels on the axis & are connected together by
means of the link m³, by which only one can come into action at any time; and
they may, when desired, be both kept out of action. The bar n is moved to and
fro by means of a lever o, which has a slot at its upper end through which a
pin o¹ passes; hence, when the lever is moved the bar n will be moved, and
thus cause the drivers and clawkers to move, and if permitted they will give
motion to their respective ratchet wheels, and according as the one or other is
actuated, as hereafter explained, so will be the effect produced. The lever o is
caused to move by means of a camp, on the cam shaft, in such manner that it
shall cause the ratchet wheels to move when the needle is out of the fabric,
and before it again enters. The Drawings show the drivers and clawkers in
such a position that the driver and the clawker m would, if not interfered
with, go on continually working their ratchet wheels by the cam p acting on
the lever o in éach of its revolutions. And these instruments are put in or out.
of motion and bring in the other driver or clawker m', or both, as may be
required, in the following manner:-q.is.a.lever, which at one end rests under.
the driver, the other end of the lever resting against two sliding pins or
bolts of different lengths, each suitable for being acted on by a Jacquard card,
or to be missed by the card (for the time being working) having a perforation
therein, as is well understood; each card not perforated opposite either of
such bolts of the lever 9 will cause that lever to be forced back, which will, by
the upper end of the lever, raise the driver into position, either to drive its
ratchet wheel, and consequently the direction in which the screw 9 was
previously moved will by the action of the driver be reversed, or so that
neither of the drivers 1, 1, will act, in which case the ratchet wheels h¹, and
consequently the screw, will for the time remain stationary. 9' is another
lever, which rests at one end under the clawker m¹; the other end of the
lever q¹ rests against two sliding pins or bolts, each suitable to be acted on or
omitted to be acted on by a Jacquard card, and in such manner that when the
card opposite the end of one of such pins or bolts is unperforated it will either.
cause the clawker m¹ to be raised into action, and the clawker m out of action,
or the clawker m¹ will be raised only so high as that both the clawkers m and

page_text: m will be out of action; hence, when the driver and the clawker m are to
be in action, the card will be perforated; and when the driver and clawker
m¹ are required to be in action the card will be perforated opposite the pins or
bolts which are of the longer lengths or either of them. As it is desirable
to move the fabric more quickly when between one row of pattern änd
another, in place of moving the fabric small spaces, cach equal to the
length of a stitch or loop, we cause the rollers to be moved by other
apparatus than the drivers and clawkers 1, l', and m, m', which are for the
time put out of action by the card being perforated opposite the longer ends of
wire acting upon the levers q, q', and 'unperforated opposite the ends of the
shorter ends of wire operating upon those levers, whereby the driver and
clawker and m¹ are so raised as that the drivers 1, 4, and clawkers m, m²,
in their to-and-fro motion, miss their respective ratchet wheels; and this
quicker driving of the fabric is accomplished in the following manner :- is a
cam on the cam shaft; this cam gives motion to the lever. r¹, to which is
attached the connecting rod, the upper end of the connecting rod * being
attached to the lever, the upper end of the lever 3 having two sliding
bars, one on each side thereof, and the lower ends of the sliding bars
are attached by pin joints each to one of two levers, the other ends 'of
the levers resting against the ends of sliding pins or bolts suitable to
be acted on or omitted to be acted on by Jacquard cards; and according as
these levers are acted on by the perforated or unperforated cards so will
the sliding bars be caused to remain or be slided out, as shown by dotted
lines; and the object of such bars is that when they or either of them are so
slided out they may give motion to the toothed racks hereafter described.
The connecting rod has a projection, which by means of the links s
attaches it to the lever s¹, which has two similar sliding bars to those above
described, and they are actuated in a similar manner by means of Jacquard
cards acting on sliding pins or bolts, against which the ends of the levers s
rest, the other end of the levers being attached by pin joints to the
sliding bolts of the lever s¹, by which means 'the sliding bars, or either of
them, may be caused to protrude beyond their levers, and when they do so
they will actuate. their respective toothed racks; but when those sliding
bars are not moved by their pattern surfaces the levers move constantly
to and fro without 'actuating the toothed racks. t, v, are two toothed racks
which are carried and guided by dove-tailed guides or bearings, and according
as these racks are put in motion or slided to and fro by the protruding out
of the sliding bars, as above described, the cog wheels t¹ or v¹ will be put into
motion in one direction or the other. On the axis of the cog wheel t¹ is

page_text: affixed the cog wheel t; which takes into and drives the cog wheel 3, on the
axis of which is affixed the cog wheel t, which takes into and drives the cog
wheel &, which is fixed on the nut or female screw on the screw g; hence
that screw will receive a quicker motion, and it will cause the rollers d, d, to
be moved a greater distance than when the ratchet wheels are put in motion
by their drivers as above explained, by which the space between pattern and
pattern will be more quickly passed. The toothed rack by its cog wheel
gives motion to a similar train of wheels in order to give a quicker motion
to the axis or shaft k, as will readily be traced in the Drawings, and thus
may the rollers or cylinders, and consequently the fabric thereon, be moved
quickly between pattern and pattern, and according to the distance between
pattern and pattern so will be the positions of the adjusting screws on the
racks against which the slides on the levers and s¹ come. The fabric
which is being ornamented in passing from one roller d to the other passes
over and is kept stretched on the bars u, u, which are fixed to uprights u¹,
affixed to the framing of the machinery, and it is between these bars u that
the needle works which passes through the fabric at each pattern, as will be
hereafter explained. In order to wind the fabric off one roller d on to the
other a driver w is used, on the lever w, which moves on the axis of that
roller as is shown, the driver w taking into the teeth of the ratchet wheel w³,
which is affixed on one end of the axis of that roller d; hence, when the
driver is lifted it will force the roller d round, and it will be held by the click
or catch from returning, the other roller being retained by the friction band,
as above explained. x is a cam on the cam shaft on which the lever x¹ rests,
and such lever will constantly be moved up and down by the revolution of its
cam, but it will have no effect on the driver w unless the lever a¹ has a filling
piece put between it and the lever, such filling piece being on a sliding
plate carried by the lever a³, and it is by its spring constantly borne away
from the lever, unless the Jacquard card for the time being acting is
unperforated opposite its sliding bolt of the lever a so as to force back the
upper end of the lever at which is by the rod a connected to the filling
piece, by which the filling piece will be forced over the lever a¹, so that when
the lever a is lifted by its cam x it will lift the lever a, and consequently the
sliding bar y, which is guided near its upper end, and it has a fixed cross
head at its top on some part of which the lever of the driver at all times
rests, and will by its being raised move the driver, and consequently the
cylinder or roller d, on to which the fabric is to be wound.
The ornmental work is produced by means of two needles A and B, aided by
the instrument C, and the manner of their working we will now proceed to

page_text: describe. A is a bar which carries the needles A at such intervals as it may
be determined to repeat the ornaments across the fabric, there being one
needle A for each ornament, and as the needles A, B, and the instrument C;
however many times they are repeated across the machine, work alike, the
description of the working of one set of these instruments will in fact be a
description of the working of all the sets. The needle bar A¹ receives motion
in the following manner, its motion being simply to rise in order to pass
through the fabric, and to fall to pass out of the fabric; but as the needle A
is bent as is shown in order that it may not make a larger hole than its own
diameter, the bar A¹ is caused in rising and descending to perform a movement
corresponding with the bend of the needle A, and this is accomplished by
means of the two plates z, the one being convex and the other concave, the
ends of the bar A' following the figure thus formed on those surfaces, which is
effected by the ends of the bar A¹ being controlled to move between the
plates z. On the cam shaft is a cam A3 which gives motion to the needle
bar A¹ so as to cause it to rise and fall in the following manner:-A is a
lever which rests on the cam A³, and it operates on the lever A when the
filling piece A is between the levers A³ and A*. The filling piece is at all
times drawn on by a spring A°, so as to keep it between the levers A, A, the
filling piece being formed on a sliding plate on the lever A', as shown, and the
filling piece is removed from between the levers A3 and A' in the following
manner-A' is a bolt arranged at one end, to be acted on by the Jacquard
cards when they are not perforated, and to be omitted to be operated upon
when the cards are perforated opposite such bolt. The other end of the
bolt A is turned down, and has attached to it one end of the spring As, the
other end of this spring being attached to the filling piece, and the spring is
stronger than the spring A°, consequently when it is distended it will overcome
the spring A, and draw the filling piece towards it; but it should be under-
stood that the beating up of the cards by the Jacquard cylinder takes place
whilst the cam A2 has its rise under the lever A³, consequently the weight of
the bar A¹, and the parts intermediate between it and the lever A³, are all
pressing on the filling piece, which will prevent the spring A8 (though it may
have been distended by the forcing out of its bolt by a blank or unperforated
surface of the card) till the rise of the cam passes away from under the lever As,
which will allow of that lever falling, and the lever A' will fall on to its
stop A, when the spring A³ being continued to be distended by an unper-
forated card pressing against it will cause the filling piece to be removed from
between the levers A³ and A, the object being that the needle A should be
out of the fabric when changing the position of the fabric, in order that the

page_text: needle A may at its next move commence a fresh pattern, the fabric being
moved a distance between two patterns with the rollers d, d, and the pattern
surfaces are to be so formed that the sprig or other designs are all commenced
by the needles A at the same points; the trains of wheels for giving motion to
the screws are to bring the fabric into the proper starting point for the next
sprigs or designs. The workman will find that by the movements above
explained he may be said to have a power of universal movement of the fabric
within the range of movement of the screws for moving the rollers d; but he
is so to arrange the working of these screws by their ratchets, and by the
trains of wheels, that the needle A will commence its operation at the same
point in the repetitions of the pattern, whatever be the point at which it
completes the pattern; and this apparatus is also called into action by the
pattern surface when the fabric is being wound from one roller to another.
The motion of the lever A is communicated to the needle bar A¹ by means of
the connecting links A, A", as is shown; and in order that both ends of the
bar A¹ may be similarly acted on, A¹ is a lever attached at the pin joint,
where the two connecting links are joined, and from the other end of the
lever A proceeds a connecting rod A¹³, which at its other end is attached by
a pin joint to the lever A1, the other end of this lever being attached by a
lever A1 to the bar A¹, as is shewn. The needles B are carried by the bar B',
such bar being carried by arms B affixed to the spindle bar B³, yet in such
manner that the needle bar B¹ may have an endway or shogging motion com-
municated to it, in addition to the lifting obtained thereto by the spindle bar B³,
and motion is communicated to the spindle bar by means of cams B* affixed
on the cam shaft, such cams giving motion to the levers B³, and they, by
connecting rods B attached to the arms of the spindle bar, give motion to
the spindle bar, so as to cause the needles B to be raised and lowered a short
distance. The needle bar B¹ is caused to swing to and from the back and
front of the machine by means of the cams B', which, by means of the
levers B³, give motion to the connecting rods B, which are attached by pin
joints to the levers and to the bar B¹, as shown; and in order to get end-
way movement or shogging to the needle bar B¹, the surfaces of three
cams D, E, F, are used in the following manner:-E¹ is a lever which is
is supported by the cam E, and causes it to retain the needles B in their
central position; but when the cam E is prevented supporting the lever E¹,
the needle bar is moved towards the right hand or towards the left, according
as the surfaces of the cams D, F, for the time being act to support the
lever E¹.
And the action of the cams D, F, are brought in to govern the
motion of the needle bar B by means of the pattern surface in the following

page_text: manner-The levers D₁, F¹, carry each a sliding plate D, F, the
levers D¹, F¹, being each so formed that it rests on its cam D, F, the sliding
plates D, F, being at the upper surfaces of their levers, and according as
they are slided by the pattern surface so will be the one which will for the
time being prevent the lever E¹ being worked by its own cam; for it will be
seen that the lever E¹ has projections through which screws pass, so that
the screws respectively stand over the sliding plates, and will be supported
thereby when either of their sliding plates offers its thickness between a
screw and its lever. And it should be understood that the two sliding plates
are connected together at one end so as to be worked by the same bolt or
bar G, which is bent down and forked as is shown, the other end of the bolt
or bar G being made so as to be acted on by the Jacquard cards, and the
spring G¹ tends at all times to draw the bolt or bar G towards the Jacquard
barrel, and the sliding plates are so formed that one offers its thickness
between a screw on the lever E³, when there is a perforation in the card
opposite the bolt G¹, and the other sliding plate offers its thickness between
its lever and a screw in the lever E¹; but both sliding plates cannot come
into operation at the same time; hence the needle bar B¹ will move to the
right hand or to the left hand of its central position according as the loops
next made by each set of instruments is required by the pattern to be
placed in one direction or the other. E' is a connecting rod, which
transmits the motion of the lever E¹ to the needle bar in the following
manner, so as to produce the endway motions before mentioned:-The
bar B¹ is constantly borne on by a spring so as to draw it towards the
left-hand end of the machine, and the connecting rod E2 passes at its
upper end through an opening in one end of the lever E³, the other
end of this lever E³ being by a link or connecting rod E attached to
the needle bar B₁, as is shown. The needles A and B are supplied with
thread of silk, cotton, or other material from rollers, as shewn. C is
the instrument which aids the needles A, B, to interloop their respective
threads on the surface of the fabric, and there is one of these instruments C
to each needle A, and the instrument C (the nature of which is shewn in the
Drawing) are affixed to the bar C¹, such bar being carried by arms on a
spindle bar C² in such manner that the bar C¹ may receive an endway motion
as well as the raising one obtained by the spindle bar, and the raising of the
bar C¹ is caused by the cam C³ on the cam shaft giving motion to the lever
C*, the upper end of which is attached by a connecting rod or link to an arm
on the spindle bar, and by such means the instruments C receive a short raising
and lowering motion. The bar C³ is caused to move to and from the back

page_text: and front of the machine by means of the cams C1, which by means of the
levers C give motion to the connecting rods C¹³, which are attached by pin
joints to the levers and to the bar C', as shown, and the endway motion is
obtained to the bars C' by means of the cams C³ acting on the lever C, which
has a connecting rod C' attached thereto; the upper end of which passes through
one end of the lever Cs, the other end of the lever being attached to the bar C¹
by means of a connecting rod or link C, the bar C¹ being at all times borne
on by a spring so as to move it towards the left-hand when allowed so to do.
In order that the workman may understand the manner in which these
instruments A, B, C, are to work so as to produce loops by the two threads
carried respectively by the needles A, B, we will call attention to the several
views of the instruments shewn full size, and they are shewn with their
threads in the varied positions which they assume in producing a series of
motions of the needle A, the needle B, and the instrument C. Thus No. 1
shews a front view and side view of the instruments A, B, C. The needle A
has passed through the fabric, and the needle B has passed through between
the needle A and its thread, and the instrument C has moved towards the
right-hand end of the machine, by which its point has entered between the
needle A and the thread of the needle B. The needle A is then to descend
through the fabric, and the instrument C swings back, by which the loop from
the needle A will be left on the needle B, and by the moving back of the
instrument C the loop on the needle B will have been drawn further on to the
stem of that needle, and the instruments A, B, C, will have assumed the
positions shewn in the side and front view at No. 2. The fabric will then be
moved so that the needle A may enter correctly according to the pattern, when
the needle A will again rise up through the fabric, the needle B moving in
such manner as to ensure the needle A passing up between the needle Band
the threads, by which the instruments A, B, C, will assume the position shewn
at No. 3; and as the needle A ascends, the needle B will move over it, and get
on the other side, and the needle A will rise to its highest point, as is shewn
by the front and side view at No. 4, when the needle B goes out, and also the
instrument C, the going out of the needle B causing the thread of its needle
to be round the needle A, and it will be drawn through the loop of thread
from A which was previously on the stem B, and the parts will assume the
position No. 5, when the needle B will enter between the thread and the
needle A, and the parts will again go into the position No. 1. The Jacquard
barrel H is carried by arms on the spindle bar H', and it receives its swinging
motion by means of the cam H2 on the cam shaft, acting on the arm H
affixed to the spindle bar H', the barrel being turned one-fourth round by the
hook I acting on the studs at the end of the barrel, as is well understood, and

page_text: the barrel is retained in its position when turned by a sliding bolt with a cross
head, which is pressed under the barrel by a spring; hence the barrel will not
turn unless it is forced, when the bolt will recede to allow of the turning, and
then ascend under the barrel, and retain it whilst beating up. And it should be
stated that the various bolts or instruments herein-before described to be acted
on by the Jacquard cards are placed in a frame, and are guided in their
movement, and they have stops to prevent them coming beyond a proper
distance. When the Jacquard barrel moves away from their ends, the bolts or
instruments being at all times borne towards the Jacquard barrel, those instru-
ments or bolts will be selected where the cards are unperforated opposite to
them, and the result will be as herein described. And we would remark,
that in place of perforated cards being used a chain of plates with risers
and fallers may be substituted, as is now very commonly practised in lace
machinery, the barrel and other parts of the apparatus being varied accord-
ingly; or surfaces, having holes to receive moveable studs of different lengths
may be used as the pattern surface, so long as the studs are capable of being
transposed in position, and thus from time to time to change the pattern of
the pattern surface, using the same parts as is also now very commonly
practised in lace machinery. And the use of such descriptions of pattern
surfaces will be found more advantageous than the pattern surfaces heretofore
used when producing tambour or other needle work on fabrics after they have
been made by placing such fabrics in suitable machines, such as is shewn and
described above, or otherwise; for it will be readily seen by a workman, that in
place of producing the looped needle work above described, tambour or other
needle work might be produced on fabrics, moved as herein described.
And a workman will also readily understand that in place of using such
pattern surfaces to move the fabric the instruments might be so mounted as
to receive the motions now described to be given to the fabric in addition to
their own motions, but it would render the machinery more complex.
We have now described the first and third parts of our Invention, and will
proceed to describe the second part of our Invention, which has for its object
the sewing cords, threads, gymp, yarn, or fabric in pattern on to fabrics; and
this is accomplished by very similar machinery to that above described,
excepting so far as the needles B, and instruments C, and the parts working
the same.

page_text: between the thread of the needle A and the needle itself each time the
needle A passes up through the fabric; and, if desired, the fabric may have a
second fabric placed on the surface, and the two sewn together in pattern, and
then one of them may be cut away between pattern and pattern. The
Drawings show so much of this machine as will, aided by the description.
already given of the previous machine, enable us to describe this part of our
Invention. I, I, are two spindle bars, which correspond with the spindle bars
of the instruments B, C, and are moved or swung to and fro by means of cams
(on a shaft moving at half the speed of the cam shaft), applied in place of
those before described for working the instruments B, C. The arms I', on'
the spindle bars, are slotted at their ends, so as to receive necks or axes on the
bars J, which rest on fixed platforms K, and are slided to and fro thereon by
the swinging of the arms I¹. On the ends of the bar J are projections, which
form bearings for the necks of the catch bars L; to the ends of each catch bar
is fixed the finger M, which moves on the guide rails N; hence, as the arms I
swing together, the one catch bar will be moving up whilst the other is moving
down the inclined planes O, O; and as each of these bars L carry as many
catches L' as there are shuttles, the shuttle P will be continually moved to
and from the back and front of the machine, the shuttle being moved through
between the needle A and its thread each time it comes up through the fabric.
Thus the Drawing B shows the shuttle just after it has been moved from the
front to the back of the machine. The needle A will now descend, sewing down
the thread laid by the shuttle, and then ascend again, when by the swinging
of the arms I¹ towards the front.of.the machine- the-shuttles-will-be moved
back towards the front by the back catches till the fingers at each end of that
catch bar rise up the inclined plane, and the fingers of the front catch bar
descend, when the shuttles will be taken by the catches of the front catch bar,
and be carried back, when the needle A will again descend, and the shuttle.
thread will be sewed or fastened down by the thread of the needle A, when
the needle A will again rise up through the fabric in another place, and the
shuttles will be passed back through between the thread and the needle A,
and the needle A will again descend, and so on. Qis a bar fixed from end
to end of the machine, having another bar Q1 hinged thereto, so that it may
be lifted up when desired to look below. These bars carry combs or plates R,
which form shuttle races for the shuttles, one for each shuttle; and the combs
or plates carry wires or rods S, which support the shuttles in their movement
across from one set of catches to the other. A workman, from the above
description, aided by these Drawings, and understanding therefrom the move-
ments of the shuttles and the needle A, will readily alter the parts of the

page_text: machinery before described so as to receive this arrangement of parts in place
of the instruments B, C, and apparatus connected therewith. And it will only
be desirable further to say, that the threads of the needles A in this machine,
and also in the former machine, are kept from being slack by the weighting of
its thread roller or beam; and such is the case with respect. to the threads of
the needles, B of the other machine. And we would state that we have found
that it is desirable in the other machine that when passing from one ornament
to another that one of the threads A, B, of each set should be slackened by
lifting the weight of the roller.. The ornamenting by the shuttle will depend
on the nature of the cord, yarn, or gymp used, which will be sewn down in
pattern by the movement of the fabric each time the needles A go down; and
when a second fabric is fastened by, the threads of the needles and of the
shuttles, the thread of the shuttle need not be an ornamenting thread. The
workman will perceive that the requisite motions might be communicated to
the apparatus which carry the needle A and, the shuttle, in place of to the
fabric; but we prefer giving the motion to the fabric.
We will now proceed to describe the fourth part of our Invention, which
has for its object the causing the bobbin or carriage threads of twist lace.
machinery to traverse, when using two warp threads to each bobbin thread, by.
which the character of net fabrics will thereby be improved, by having the
crossing at the tops and bottoms of the meshes produced by the crossings of
bobbin threads; and when desired to make single pillars at any parts, the
extra warp threads may be left out in the working with their bobbin threads,
so as to allow of such extra warp threads being cut off at those parts. And
as the same Drawings shew the fifth part of our Invention, we will, by.
describing the Drawings C, describe both the fourth and the fifth parts of our
Invention at the same time, simply pointing out the differences which are
requisite to be observed in carrying out the one or the other.
The fifth part of our Invention has for its object a greater degree of inde-
pendence of both the warp threads and the bobbin threads, so that, every
thread may be independent of all other of the threads, and be governed in its
operations by Jacquard cards. And this part of the Invention consists of the,
conjoined application of Jacquard cards to govern the working of the bobbin
threads, and also on the warp threads, when the warp threads are operated on,
by intercepting instruments introduced in amongst the warp threads. And in
respect to this part of our Invention we, would, remark that Jacquard cards
have before been used for operating on the bobbin, threads of twist lace
machines; but in such cases, the machinery has not bad, Jacquard cards to
operate on intercepting instruments moving into and out of the warp threads..

page_text: And other twist lace machinery has been arranged with independent inter-
cepting instruments passing amongst the warp threads, and operated on by
Jacquard cards; but in such cases the bobbin or carriage threads have not
been operated on by Jacquard cards; and we mention these matters in order
that this part of our Invention may be more accurately understood. The
nature of twist lace machinery, and the manner of working the same, being
well known, it will only be requisite for us to point out such peculiarities
as are necessary to our improvements. a, a, are the bobbin carriages;
b, b, the combs, which are inverted, and the points take down the work,
which is the arrangement we prefer for carrying out these parts of
our Invention; the same, however, is well known, and does not form
any part of our Invention; and other arrangements of machinery may
be used. We have not thought it necessary to shew a complete machine,
but have for the most part confined ourselves to those parts which go to
carry out the two parts of our Invention now under description. There are
three warp or guide bars, c being the front guide bar, having half as many
threads as there are bobbin threads, and this bar is racked by its cut of
wheel d. The back warp or guide bar e also carries half as many threads as
there are bobbin or carriage threads, and the bar e is also racked by a similar
cut of wheel d. The extra warp threads, one to each bobbin, are carried by
the bar g, which is racked its cut of wheel h; and there is an intercepting
instrument i for each warp thread in the bar g, and such intercepting instru-
ments can be caused to intercept the racking of those front and back warp
threads which move opposite the space into which such intercepting instrument
may be introduced. The intercepting instruments i are similar to those before
used for intercepting the rackings of the warp threads of twist lace machinery,
and therefore separately they form no part of our Invention, and other arrange-
ments of such instruments may be used for such purposes. is a sliding bar
moving in suitable combs, there being one sliding bar for each instrument i,
and they are by suitable cords fastened to their upper ends connected with
Jacquard apparatus, as is well understood, and according as the sliding bars 2¹
are raised or omitted to be raised by the cards as they are beat up by the
Jacquard cylinder so will be the result on the instruments i; thus when the
bars are raised they will omit to act on their interceptors i, and the reverse
will be the case when the bars are left down. The comb bars are carried
by arms fixed on axes at each end, and these bars are put into motion by
means of cams * acting on the levers, which give motion to the connecting
rods, which are connected to those levers and to the arms on the axes 28.
And in order that all the sliding bars ¹ may descend ready for the next selec-

page_text: tion, the locker bar j is used, which is put in motion by the cam which moves
the lever, which, by means of the connecting rod, attached to the arm jt, on
the locker bar j. And in order to the intercepting instruments (which are
simply supported by combs) being put back so as to go out of the threads and
be ready for the next selection, the locker bar k is used, which works in notches
of the sliding stamps of the intercepting instruments i. This locker bar
receives motion from the cam k¹ by means of the lever, actuated by the
cam k¹ moving the connecting rod k³, which is attached to the lever k³, and to
an arm on the locker bar k. In order that any one or more of the car-
riages may be selected, there is an independent sliding instrument / working
between each space in the back combs, the other ends of such instruments
being guided by other combs, as shown; and there are similar sliding bars
marked in connection by cords with Jacquard apparatus, as were above
described for the intercepting instruments i, and the bars are carried by comb
bars, which are fixed to arms on the axes or necks at each end, so that the
bars may swing towards the instruments 1, and select or omit to select those
instruments / according as the bars have been raised or not by the card; and
the arms of the comb bars & receive their swinging motion from the cam 1,
acting on the lever 1, which gives motion to the connecting rod attached to
the lever and to the arm affixed to the necks or axes at each end. The
sliding bars are moved down in order to be ready for the next selection by
the locker bar m, which is put in motion by the cam j¹, which actuates the
lever m², which by means of the connecting rod m³ attached to the lever m²
and to the arm m* gives motion to the locker bar; and in order to prevent the
independent instruments 1 coming too far back the fixed plate n is used. The
carriages are passed through between the warp threads by means of the catch
bars o, p, which are respectively worked by their cams o' and p¹, actuating the
levers o³ and p², which give motion to the connecting rods os and p³, which are
attached to the levers o² and p³, and to the ends of the levers o' and p', which
carry the catch bars, as is well understood. The catch bars are regulated in
their falling into and being lifted out of the nebs of the carriages by means of
lifting bars q, r, actuated by the cams q', r¹. The carriages are selected when
in the back combs by means of the instruments I, and they are pushed forward
so as to come into a position to be taken by the back catch bar which push
them forward, and the front catch bars take the carriages into the front combs.
The carriages are moved from the front comb by means of the driving bar s, so
as to be taken by the front catch bar which moves them, and then the back
bar draws the carriages into the back combs. The driving bar s receives its
motion from the cams s¹ which give-motion to the levers & affixed to the driving

page_text: bar s. The cut of wheels of the warp bars are so formed that it there
were no selection of the intercepting instruments by the Jacquard apparatus,
and there were no selection of any of the carriages, the machine would go on
making a weaving by linking of the bobbin and warp threads. The additional
threads, when used according to the fourth part of our Invention, making
opaque or close weaving, and the selection of carriages so as to form them or
some of them into two rows (back and front) will, by the racking of the comb'
bar by its wheel, cause the carriages to put on crosses; pillars for lace
(whether one or two warp' threads be used to each bobbin thread) will be
produced according to the order in which the intercepting instruments are
introduced, to prevent particular warp threads being racked by their cut of
wheels, all which is well understood. And the fifth part of our Invention
does not consist of producing these independent operations on either the'
warp threads separately or on the bobbin threads separately, but this part
of the Invention consists in combining the use of Jacquard to warp threads
and bobbin threads of twist lace machinery as herein described. And in
respect to the fourth part of our Invention, where we use two warp threads to
each bobbn thread we make no claim to that separately, but only inasmuch
as this arrangement is combined with so arranging machinery that the bobbin
threads can traverse and put on crosses as hercin described. We have not
thought it necessary to show more warp bars than three; but the workman will
perceive that more warp or guide bars may be applied, when desired, for lacing
threads or for taping threads, or other ornamenting purposes, and the
workman will apply such bars as heretofore, according to the effect he wishes
to produce.
Having thus described the nature of our Invention, and the best means we
are acquainted with for performing the same, we would have it understood that
we do not claim any of the parts of the mechanism shown and described,
nor do we confine ourselves to the details above described, so long as the
peculiar character of either part of our Invention be retained; but what we
claim is,
First, the mode of manufacturing figured or ornamented lace, or net and
other fabrics, herein described, whereby two threads are caused to loop toge-
ther in pattern, on such fabrics, one thread passing through the fabric, and the
other looping therewith on the surface of, but without passing through the
fabric.
Secondly, we claim the mode of manufacturing figured or ornamented lace
or net and other fabrics, herein described, whereby threads or gymp or
yarn or fabrics are sewn in pattern by machinery on the surfaces of fabrics.
33

page_text: Thirdly, we claim the combining the use of Jacquard or perforated cards
and plates or surfaces with transposable risers and fallers, with apparatus
or machinery used in making tambour work or other needle work on lace or
net or other fabrics.
Fourthly, we claim the mode of manufacturing figured or ornamented lace or
net herein described, whereby twist lace machinery is so worked as to employ
two or more warp threads to each bobbin or carriage thread when making lace
or net, the tops and bottoms of the meshes of which are produced by the
crossing or traversing of bobbin or carriage threads; and,
Fifthly, we claim the mode of manufacturing figured or ornamented lace or
net, herein described, whereby the warp threads are controlled or governed by
independent intercepting instruments passing amongst them, and the bobbin
threads are actuated or governed by independent instruments, and both such
independent instruments of the two sets of threads are worked by Jacquard
or perforated cards.
In witness whereof, we, the said John Fisher and James Gibbons, have
hereunto set our hands and seals, this Seventh day of June, in
the year of our Lord Oue thousand eight hundred and forty-five.