for Boots and Shoes.
Year: 1888

page_text: for Boots and Shoes.
I WILLIAM SEYMOUR EADES of 9 and 10 Charles Street St. James', in the City
and County of Bristol, Boot and Shoe manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of
my said invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN APPARATUS OR MACHINES FOR MAKING
66 BUTTON-PIECES" FOR BOOTS AND SHOES to be as follows:-
Hitherto the ornamental edges or scollops and the button holes of button pieces for
boots and shoes have been made by hand and therefore were liable to be irregular in
shape and at uneven distances from one another. My invention has for its object to.
provide means which allow correctness of shapo and exactness of position to be readily
obtained for such scollops and button holes.
:
In carrying this invention into practice I provide a press of any suitable con-
struction with a punch to punch out one or more scollops and button holes at the
same time.
The punch is so constructed that each button-hole is punched out at the same
time as the scollop or ornamental border which surrounds or adjoins it. There
may be a suitable counterpunch if required and one or more suitable guides are
provided to facilitate, the correct placing of the material to be operated upon.
The apparatus may be constructed to act upon one or more "button pieces" at ono
operation.
D
كيم
1
1 1000
BERNHARD DUKES,
226, High Holborn, London, W.C.,
Agent for the Applicant.

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Apparatus or Machines for Making "Button Pieces”
for Boots and Shoes.
!
I, WILLIAM SEYMOUR EADES, of 9 and 10, Charles Street, St. James', in the City
and County of Bristol Boot and Shoe Manufacturer do hereby declare the nature of
this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
Hitherto the ornamental edges or "scallops" and the button holes of button pieces
for boots and shoes have been formed by hand, and therefore subject to irregularities
in shape and the distances of the holes and scallops from each other. My invention
has for its object to provide an apparatus which ensures exactness of position being
readily obtained for such scallops and button holes.
The said apparatus is represented in the accompanying drawings, in which Fig. 1 is
a plan of the lower part or bed of the said machine, with the parts mounted thereon
resting on a firm slab, of wood or other material the standard or upright end being
broken off together with the parts supported by it. Fig. 2 is a side elevation, showing.
the whole of the machine, and Fig. 3 is a front elevation of the same. Figs. 4
and 5 are plan and side elevation of the knives or cutters: Figs. 6, 7, and 8 aro
plan, elevation and section respectively of that portion of the cutters which forms the
scallop, and Figs. 9, 10, and 11 are plan, elevation, and section of the button
hole cutter. Figs. 12 to 16 represent various cuts made by the machine when
at work.
Figs. 4 to 16 are for greater clearness drawn to a larger scale than the others.
My apparatus is constructed in the following manner-From the back of the bed-
plate A which fixed to a slab S of wood or other material, rises a standard or
upright B, projecting towards the front as shown in fig. 2, upon this standard,
bearings and Care provided, in those bearings a plunger D works, this plunger
being surrounded by a helical spring E. The lower portion of the plunger D
has a socket D¹ for the reception of the stem or top 1 of the cutting tools 1, D2
is a continuation of the socket D', and serves for a purpose hereinafter described,
and D is a screw for holding the cutting tool in position. On the top of
the standard B is a bearing F in which is pivotted a lever G connected by a
rod or cord H with a treadle conveniently placed below the slab: Pressure of
the operator's foot on the treadle will by means of the cord H and the lever G
depress the plunger D to which the cutter cutters I are attached, the
spring having been compressed, is released when the pressure of the foot is taken
from the treadle, and the plunger and lever are carried back to their original
position. Any other means of working the plunger and cutters may however be
adopted.
or
Figs. 4 and represent the cutting tools I ready to be attached by the insertion of
the stem l' into the socket D₁ of the plunger. The cutting tool is made in two parts,

page_text: one of which is for cutting the scallop, and the other for cutting the button hole; the
cutter shown in figs. 6, 7, and 8 I term the scallop cutter, it lias a suitable hole d in
the top for the reception of the (preferably square) shoulder e which adjoins the
stem I of the cutter which I term the button hole cutter, both portions being kept in
proper position when the stem I' is fastened into the socket D'.
:
The scallop cutter, as its name indicates, makes a curved cut, such as is shown in
fig. 13, the details of this cutter will be readily understood from figs. 6, 7, and 8; tho
button hole cutter, figs. 9, 10, and 11, punches a holob, and makes a straight cut-c
the length required, forming the button hole concentric with the punch or edge b.
and above the same is a channel, which passes through the stem I' into the aperturo D²
which extends backwards and outwards in the plunger; the channel so formed serves
for the reception of the picces cut out by the punch 6 and for their gradual ejection at
the upper end of the aperture D³.
:
The cutter I descends on a circular disc L, formed of brass or other suitable soft
material; this disc revolves on the bed plate, and is kept firmly in position by a sot
screw L', which fits into a nut L2, this nut slides backwards and forwards in a slot ..
in the bed-plate; by these means as soon as a portion of the disc has become worn,
by a slight turn of the set scrow L' the disc is loosened and can be revolved as
required, and when the whole of the outer part of the disc has become worn, the
screw is loosened, and the whole of the disc is brought forward, so that an inner
portion of the disc may be brought under the cutter, the nut L which has also been
brought forward in the slot is ready for the scrow E to fasten the disc in its required
place, and so on until every portion of the disc has been rendered unfit for further.
use. Around this disc and level with it is a plate or table K, along which the button
pieces or other work to be operated on are passed under the cutter; this plato is
fastened by screws to the bed plate A, suitable holos being provided for their
reception, so that when the disc L is brought forward as before described, tho
surrounding plate may be moved accordingly.
M is a guide, the stem of which passes into a suitable recess in a boss M' on the
casting forming the bed plate and standard, this guide is fixed in its required position
by the thumb screw M2, m is the front of the guide; N is a movable attachment to
the guide, adjusted by a screw N¹ working in a slot, so that the stud n at the end of
the attachment may be fixed as required.
The operation of my invention is as follows:-The guide M being fixed in proper
position, with the attachment N adjusted, the button piece is laid upon the plate K
and the disc L, with its edge against the front m of the guido M, the cutter I is then
by a smart pressure on the treadlo brought down on the button piece, and one scallop
and one button hole are cut; to ensure the correct position of the next cut, the hole
made by the punch bis placed over the stud n, and the button piece pushed against m,
the cutter is again pressed down, and so on until the operation is completed. An
impression of one stroke of the cutter is shown on the disc in fig. 1, marked Q.
To prevent undue wear of the cutting edges a, b and c of the cutter I, and of the
disc I, the stroke of the plunger is limited by an adjustable stop P.
The action of the machine as heretofore described is for cutting scallops and button
holes simultaneously, but as the curves at the top and bottom of button pieces
generally differ from the others, both in size and shape, I find it convenient to have a
duplicate machine fixed by the side of the other, the slab and bed-plate being
extended accordingly, and in this second machine, I place a button hole cutter
only, with which to cut the top and bottom holes, the curves surrounding them
having previously been formed according to the shape and configuration desired.
The parts of the cutter being made separately, will be seen that the punch of the
button hole cutter may be attached to the scallop cutter with the straight knife which
cuts the slit of the button hole removed, and thus serve for the ornamental scalloping
and punching of leather or other material, and by adding other punches, ornamental
devices of various kinds may be formed, such as that shown by fig. 16, or the scallop
cutter may be used alone; in each case, modifications of the guide M and attach-.
ment N can be easily adopted.

page_text: As before mentioned, the combined cutters may be used in other ways besides
the lever press as described; such as by a hand punch, or by fixing them into a
handle, and driving them through the leather or other material by a mallet.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declaro that what I
claim is :-
(1) In a machine for cutting scallops and button holes and the like, the combi-
nation with a plunger carrying a cutter I of an adjustable plate L and a guide M as
and for the purposes set forth and as shown in tho accompanying drawings.
(2) For a machine for cutting scallops and button holes a cutter consisting of
the parts I and I capable of being used together or separately and constructed as
set forth.
(3) The adjustable plate L constructed and operating as set forth and shown in
the drawings.
(4) The adjustable guide M with an adjustable attachment N constructed and
operating as and for the purposes set forth and shown.
Dated this 8th day of December 1888
BERNHARD DUKES,
226, High Holborn, London, W.C.,
Agent for the Applicant.