IMPROVEMENTS IN WOVEN FABRICS
Year: 1885

page_text: I, HERBERT JOHN HADDAN, of 67, Strand, in the City of Westminster, Civil
Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of said invention for IMPROVEMENTS IN
WOVEN FABRICS, a communication to me from abroad by Wilfred E. Mitchell,
Manufacturer, of Columbus, State of Georgia, United States of America, and
in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement :—
This invention relates to an improvement in woven fabrics and the art of
producing the same.
This invention relates more particularly to that class of fabrics, in which portions
of the surface are raised to produce embossed effects, the object being to provide a
fabric which shall have unusual solidity and clearness of ground work, and which
shall be so constructed as to admit of putting in the "picks" to advantage and
raising the figures with the least difficulty.
With these euds in view the invention consists in a certain method of procedure
and in the product of such method as will be hereinafter described and pointed out
in the claims.
In the accompanying drawings, Fig 1 is a diagram showing the courses of the
warp threads relatively to the weft threads, and Fig 2 represents a piece of
cloth, the result of the improved method of weaving.
In carrying out this new method I employ two beams of warp, one carrying the
warp to form the plain cloth, and the face warp and the other carrying the warp to
form the ground work and termed the back or stitching warp. These two warps
woven together by means of suitable wefts form the figure and the ground of the
cloth.
16
The progressive positions and changes of the warp and wefts are as follows:
The face warp represented in full lines in the drawing and marked a a is formed
'Tabby," viz: one up and one down, throughout, from one beam of warp, and the
back warp from the other beam, represented in dotted lines and marked b, b, is
ID 177

page_text: raised to make the ground- portion of the cloth and to form the figures. These
positions of the two warps make what is termed a shed, through which the shuttle
runs.
The first shed is for a pick of coarse weft, c. To make a second shed, the face
warp a a, is changed to the reverse "Tabby," and this shed is also for a pick of
coarse weft c. Both warps are then changed to the positions shown in the third
Blied.
The face warps are all lifted and lowered into the ground work and the back or
stitching warp is formed " Tabby." This third shed is for a pick of fine weft d.
In the fourth shed the face warp is formed "Tabby" the same as the first shed, and
the back warp is formed reverse "Tabby." The fourth shed is also for a fine
weft d. Each succeeding four picks are a repetition of the four just explained, and
the result is the cloth shown in Fig 2, in which E represents the raised portion
and e the ground work. I believe it to differ from all other cloths in the third
pick as explained in the positions which the warps occupy in the third shed.
The cloth which results therefrom is an exceedingly firm and durable fabric, its
ground is clear and the figures stand in clear-cut relief, while the general appearance
is neat and finished. The peculiar arrangement of the warps and the manner of
putting in the third pick make it easier and more practicable to put in the picks
without straining or breaking the warp and the raised portion. is thereby made
more prominent.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is
1. The art of weaving a fabric having an embossed effect, consisting essentially,
in forming the third shed in each series of four, by lowering the face warp into the
ground work forming the back warp "Tabby," and introducing a pick of fine
weft, substantially as set forth.
2. The art of producing a woven fabric, consisting essentially in leading two sets
of warps from two separate beams, one set constituting the face warp and the other
set the back warp, forming the face warp in the first shed "Tabby" and in the
second shed reverse "Tabby" and introducing a pick of coarse weft in the first
and second sheds, lowering the face warp into the ground work and forming the
back warp "Tabby" to form the third shed and introducing a pick of fine weft,
and forming the fourth shed by making the face warp "Tabby" and introducing a
pick of fine weft, substantially as set forth.
3. A woven fabric having raised portions said fabric having the third shed in
each series of four, formed by lowering the face warp into the ground work, forming
the back warp "Tabby" and introducing a pick of fine weft, substantially as set
forth.