Improvements in and relating to Button Hole Stitching Machinery.
Year: 1898

page_text: Improvements in and relating to Button Hole Stitching Machinery.
A communication from abroad by THE REECE BUTTON HOLE MACHINE COMPANY,
of Portland, in the State of Maine, one of the United States of America.
I, ALFRED GEORGE BROOKES, of 55/56, Chancery Lane, in the County of London,
Chartered Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as
follows:
In buttonhole stitching-machines now commonly in use, the material in which the
button hole is to be worked by stitches is held in a work-holder or clamp, and either.
the clamp is moved laterally, or the needle bar is moved laterally for the production
of the depth and over edge stitch, and commonly one side of the button hole is
stitched complete and then the other side is stitched, such method of stitching
requiring two complete movements of the workholder, longitudinally or in the
direction of length of the button hole for a distance equal to the length of the button
hole it is desired to make, the movement in one direction enabling the depth stitch
to be made along one side, and the reverse movement along the opposite side of the
button hole.
So also in button hole stitching machines such as described in the specification of
patent to Benjamin Nicoll dated June 24, 1864, No. 1594, a needle bar has been
provided with two needles, and the material having the button hole to be stitched is
mounted on a clamp or work holder which is moved longitudinally and laterally under
the needles, each needle stitching but one edge of the button hole, both needles
operating simultaneously to thus stitch at the same time both edges of the button
hole.
In their studies to improve button hole stitching machines my correspondents have
devised a machine employing two needles, each carried by its own bar, each needle
having cooperating with it a suitable under or second thread carrier, and these two
needles act. to make the depth and over edge stitch for both sides of the button hole
during one feeding movement of the work holder or clamp.
The machine has been especially devised for making some barring stitches just
before commencing the two lines of depth and over edge stitching, and also just after
the completion of said two lines of depth and over edge stitching, if it be desired to
bar both ends of the button hole, the button hole being stitched and barred auto-
matically in the machine by one continued operation.
The machine herein to be described as embodying this invention in one 'practical
form has two eye pointed thread carrying needles, and each needle is connected with
and carried by its own needle bar, one of said bars in the form in which this invention
is herein shown being fitted to slide within the other, and being operated at times
by the other through a coupling mechanism, or coupling.
These two needle bars when the depth and over edge stitch is being made are
moved in unison as in said Nicoll patent and each needle passes through the material,
but when the barring of the ends of the button hole is being done, one of these
needles, which may be called the secondary needle, is put temporarily out of operative

page_text: position, and the other, or main needle, as it may be called, is employed alone to
make the bar stitches, and while this barring is being done the length of the depth
stitch movement is preferably increased so as to make the stitch substantially twice
as long as the usual distance between the over edge and depth stitches between the
two bars.
These barring stitches may be, however, of any desired length and number and one
will preferably be super imposed on the other, the longitudinal or feeding movement
of the work, or the movement to enable stitching to take place in the direction of the
the length of the button-hole, being at such time suspended, or substantially so.
By the use of this machine I am enabled to save about one-half of the time now
commonly taken to stitch and bar a button-hole and consequently owing to this
saving in time I may stitch and bar in a given time a greatly increased number of
button-holes, thus decreasing the cost of their production.
When the secondary needle is thrown out of operation, its thread has to be clamped
and controlled between the needle and the take-up to thereby prevent any liability
of the 'thread fouling under the main needle which continues to operate in making a
bar.
The button-hole herein to be made must be cut out, and this may, and preferably
will be done, after making the barring stitches for one end of the button hole, and
before the making of the barring stitches for the other end of the button hole.
The bed plate has an overhanging arm carrying a main needle-bar actuating shaft ;
a take up, a cam fast on said shaft for operating it; hooks forming complementary
stitch forming mechanism cooperating with two needles to be described, said hooks
containing thread cases provided with under or second threads, and means for rotating
the said hook.
The under thread carrying inechanism may be of the rotary class.
Instead of one needle bar carrying two needles, the needle bar which I designate a
main needle bar is grooved longitudinally to receive within it a secondary needle
bar.
The main needle-bar has an attached eye-pointed needle and the secondary needle
bar has another.
In practice the over edge stitches will come substantially to a line leaving just
room enough, if desired, to cut the button hole after it is worked, or it may be cut, if
desired, before it is worked and while held in the work holder.
A plurality of stitches are first made in the material by the main needle, the
secondary needle at such time, occupying its inoperative or abnormal position, of a
length to cross said line they being preferably substantially twice as long as the
distance between the over edge and depth stitches.
The bar stitches having been made, and in practice they will preferably be
superimposed one on the other, the secondary needle is put automatically into
position where the eyes of both of the needles stand in substantially the same
horizontal plane in operative position, and thereafter while the two needles are in
such position their needle bars will be reciprocated so that said needles with their
independent threads will stitch at each descent each at its own side of said centre
line, each needle descending at one thrust through the material in substantially the
said centre line or close to it to make the stitch which will be exposed at the edge of
the button hole, and at its next descent it will pass through the material back from
said centre line equal to the width required, and this stitching will be continued by a
change in the relative position of the work holder or cloth clamp and the needles,
until the button-hole has been worked for the desired length, the work holder in the
meantime being moved longitudinally or in the direction of the length of the button
hole, and this length having been determined, the secondary needle is again
temporarily automatically put out of position while the main needle continues to
stitel, the length of movement for bar stitehing being again automatically increased
until said needle has made the desired number of stitches predetermined to constitute
the bar, preferably four stitches, but it may be more or less.
At this position of the operative parts, the machine may be stopped automatically

page_text: and the material containing the button hole barred at both ends may be removed
from the work-holder, and the material be again put into the work-holder to make
another button hole, and at the reverse movement of the work holder another button
hole will be made and barred..
The material is held in a work holder or clamp thus :-To the work supporting
plate of the machine is attached by suitable screws a plate provided with a guiding
groove or way in which is placed the end of a slide provided at its end nearest the
stitch forming mechanism with a cross or transverse slot, said slot receiving in it
loosely a block connected with a bar, having attached to it, a spring plate, resting on
the usual needle plate, provided with two needle holes, one for the main needle,
and the other for the secondary needle, they passing through said holes in order to
present the threads carried by them to the points of the hooks.
The spring plate has an opening through which to readily gain access to the
bobbin case in a hook when the usual cover plate has been withdrawn.
The said bar also has erected upon it a stand having jointed to it an arm to which
is attached a spring arm carrying a rigid arm threaded for the reception of a stud
screw on which is mounted a fork having journaled in its end a rocking open centred
foot, preferably toothed at its underside and bearing directly upon the material, said
foot pressing the material in which the button hole is to be stitched into the space
in the spring plate and directly upon the needle throat plate.
The left hand end of the bar is extended through a slot at the underside of the
detachable.plate forming one side of the slot, and the end of said bar is attached to
the block.
This work holder is moved in the direction of the length of the button hole,'
thus: The block is threaded to receive a stud screw passed through a hole in
one end of a link the opposite end of the said link surrounding loosely the neck
of a handle post, said neck being threaded interiorly to receive a screw the sides
of the head of said screw being formed to fit the walls of a groove of a toothed
gear having its hub entered in a hole in a part of the slide beyond the slot,
said hub being held down in said slide by a suitable screw and washer.
By turning the handle post the point of connection of the neck, which constitutes
a crank pin with relation to the centre of said toothed gear is adjusted to the length
of button hole to be made.
This toothed wheel derives its motion from a pinion, mounted on a stud carried by
a plate the upper end entering a hole in and being steadied by a bracket
secured to the said movable plate.
The said pinion has a ratchet wheel engaged by a pawl on a pawl carrier said
pawl carrier having a hole in its end surrounding the sleeve-like hub of the
combined pinion and ratchet wheel, the circular inner end of said pawl carrier,
having a series of teeth engaged by the teeth of a sector extended from one side
of a slotted lever upon the said sliding plate the slot of the said lever receiving
a stud carried by an arm having a threaded foot entering a dovetailed guiding
groove in the fixed plate, said threaded foot being entered by a screw having a
head provided with an annular groove said groove being entered by a notched
ear rising from the said plate the said screw being free to be rotated but not to
slide with relation to said plate, the rotation of said screw by hand causing the
arm to be moved, thus moving the stud longitudinally in the slot of the lever.
The rotation of the screw in one or the other direction controls the spacing of one.
stitch from another in the direction of the length of the button hole.
The aforesaid plate and work holder derive their movement parallel to the over-
hanging arm and at right angles to the length of the button hole slit to make the
"depth" and "
over edge" stitches whilst the work holder is so actuated as to space
the depth and over edge stitches, thus:-
་
The inain shaft has fast on it a hub with a groove in which is a shoe held by a
stud, in the upper end of a lever jointed at its lower end to another stud from an ear
rising from the inner end of a slide said lever being slotted to embrace an adjustable
fulcrum so that according to the position of said fulcrum in the slot, the said lever
: I

page_text: having its upper end moved a uniform distance at each rotation of the main shaft,
will have its lower or short arms and the connected slide move for a greater or less
distance, that depending upon the length of throw desired for the work holder to.
effect the depth and overedge stitch movement, the said depth stitch movement being
increased in length for "barring."
As the plate is moved to the right by the lever the gears are also moved, and with
them the pawl carrier with its pawl in engagement with the ratchet teeth of one
gear and during this movement, owing to the fact that the teeth of said pawl carrier.
are in engagement with the teeth of a sector extended from its lever then held'
stationary by an arm and stud, the said pawl carrier is rotated about the hub of the
said gear causing the pawl in engagement with the ratchet teeth to turn said toothed
gear and with it the gear the extent of this rotation being governed, it will be
understood, by the stud in the slot of the lever for the nearer the said stud to the
pin connecting said lever to the movable or sliding plate, the less the movement of
the pin and vice versa.
The bed plate has a stand fixed in position and slotted, it receives the said fulcrum,
the devices for raising and lowering this fulcrum being arranged outside.
The devices for raising and lowering this fulcrum automatically are carried by an
arm of a rock shaft mounted in bearings of a stand on the frame,, said rock shaft
having an arm with a stud which enters a cam groove, in a rotating controlling or
cam wheel having along side of it a gear having teeth engaged by the teeth of a
worm on a shaft provided with a pinion engaged and rotated by a pinion on the
lower shaft employed to actuate the shafts carrying hooks. :
The relative change of position of the material in which the button hole is being
stitched and the needle may be effected entirely through the work holder but this
invention is not limited to any exact means to effect the change of position of the
material for the depth stitch.
The main needle bar has a hole, and the secondary needle bar has mounted
loosely in it a movable coupling such as a grooved headed pin said head entering a
slot in a movable stand having at its lower end a plurality of pins which enter loosely
suitable holes in the head of the machine.
This stand, when depth and overedge stitching, is acted upon by a suitable spring
which presses the base of the stand firmly against the head, and causes the coupling
to enter the hole in the main needle bar as it is reciprocated by a link connecting a
collar on said bar with a crank pin secured to the front end of the take up cam
operating hub reciprocates the secondary needle bar, causing both needles to penetrate
the material, but when barring is to be done, and the distance between the over
edge and depth stitch is to be altered and increased to make the bar, the fulcrum is
raised causing the arm forked to embrace a part of said fulcrum and connected at its
opposite end to a sleeve (with adjustable collar) mounted loosely on a stud screw on a
stand to be moved.
This collar has an ear which receives one end of a link provided with a stud adjust-
able in a slot of a lever said lever having a stud screw tapped and receiving over it
loosely a sleeve having a web, a screw entering a hole in this web loosely, being
screwed into the tapped hole in the stud, so that said sleeve is free to turn loosely on
said stud screw as the lever is moved backward and forward.
This sleeve also has a hole which receives one end of a rod adjustable through a
set screw the free end of said rod passing through a suitable hole in the head of the
machine acting against the lower end of the stand to push it away in opposition to a
spring.
The pushing of this stand to the right (say) withdraws from the bar the coupling
carried by the secondary needle bar.
The uncoupling movement causes the lower end of the stand to act on the tail of
a pawl forcing its end into a notch in the secondary needle bar, locking it. in its
inoperative position while the main needle bar is reciprocated to "bar," these bars
being made only when the fulcrum is elevated.
The pawl is normally acted upon by a spring when so permitted by the move-

page_text: ment of the stand to couple the secondary needle bar with the main needle bar,
acting to instantly withdraw the pawl from the notch and let the secondary needle
bar move in unison with the main needle bar.
Supposing the main needle is substantially at the line of slit of the button hole,
where it makes the over edge stitch, and the secondary needle is at its depth stitch
position at the other side of what is to be the button hole slit, at the next descent of
the said needles, the secondary needle will descend to make an over edge stitch, and
the inain needle will descend to make a depth stitch, thèse needles changing their
positions, from the line of slit of the button hole, or the over edge stitch line, to
the depth stitch line alternately, each needle working the over edge and depth stitch
for one half of the button hole, each completing one edge of the button hole as the
material is being fed in the direction of the length of the button. hole, so that at each
complete movement of the material longitudinally in one and in the opposite direction
a button hole is completed.
The button hole may, by the improved mechanism be barred at one end before the
stitching of the depth and over edge stitch, and at its other end after the completion
of the stitching of the depth and over edge stitch.
The fulcrum stud has a chainber and a collar which rests against the lever and at
the outer or left hand end of the stand the fulcrum has screwed upon its threaded
portion a collar being provided with an annular groove to receive the forked end of
an arm and this collar is acted upon by a check nut.
The chamber at the end of this fulcrum stud receives the ball like end of an
elbow lever mounted to turn freely on a stud erected in a stand on the bed.
When "barring "is being done, the movement of the material in the direction of
the length of the button hole is stopped as the fulcrum is lifted preparatory to
making the bar stitches, the said fulcrum also moves the said elbow lever causing its
end to act upon the tail of the pawl, thereby removing it from engagement with the
ratchet teeth and suspending the further rotation of the said pinion and tooth wheel
during barring,' but as soon as the fulcrum is lowered and the secondary needle bar is
coupled to the main needle bar preparatory to making the depth stitches for finishing
the button hole slit, such movement causes the arm of the lever to retire from the
tail of such pawl and let the pawl immediately commence to actuate the ratchet wheel
and gear to impart to the workholder its longitudinal movement required to feed
material in the direction of the length of the button hole.
Usual or suitable tension devices and slack thread controllers are used, and
preferably the thread supplying the secondary needle will have a co-operating
auxiliary thread controller temporarily used when the secondary needle bar is
uncoupled from the main needle bar to be left in its inoperative position, said
auxiliary controller at such times clamping and holding the slack in the thread so
that it shall not foul on the cloth.
This auxiliary thread controller may be composed of a hollow slotted stud screwed
into a removable cap covering the needle bar and head of the machine, and threaded
interiorly to receive a screw.
This hollow stud screw has two discs, one resting at its outer side against the head
of the said inserted screw the other disc being acted upon by a rod extended through the
hollow stud screw leaving its end exposed to be acted upon by a projection depending
from the lower end of the stand or coupling carrier or actuator; said projection when
the said carrier is moved to uncouple the secondary needle bar from the main needle
bar acting on the said rod to force the disc against the thread lying between it and
the other disc such movement clamping the secondary needle thread.
This needle thread is unclamped immediately and left free when the coupling
actuator is again moved to unite the secondary and main needle bars for depth and
over edge stitching.
The slit for the second button hole may be made after the bar has been made for
one end of the button hole, and preparatory to making the second bar.
The cutting mechanism employed may be thus :-
In place of the usual presser. foot bar may be mounted a cutter carrier bar having

page_text: a movable dog the lower end of which has a block with two holes, a spring normally
acting to keep the said carrier in its elevated position.
The dog is hollow for part of its length to receive a pin having a bevelled end, said
dog being slotted to receive a pin, a spring in the hollow of the dog acting against
said pin to normally keep the bevelled end out of the dog.
A spring acts normally to pull the pin end of the dog out of the path of movement
of the projection carried by the main needle bar.
The main needle har is slotted to receive a cutter so shaped as to enable a very
thin blade to be used.
This blade has two like pins which extend through the holes in the head of the
carrier bar and the inner side of this cutter is slotted to receive a pin, at the end of
the rigid portion carrying the foot of the work holder, said projection standing in said
slot causing the cutter to travel longitudinally back and forth in the slot of the
needle bar in the direction of the length of the button hole with the workholder, said
slot being long enough to also permit the cutter to rise and fall at proper times.
The controlling wheel controlling the time at which the barring takes place and
the cutting of the button hole may also control the time of stopping the button hole
when the second bar is made and finished.
The fulcruin controller or yoke, in its movements varies the position of the fulcrum
not only to make the stitch longer from what is to be the slit of the button hole, or
shorter as may be desired but also to uncouple the secondary needle bar from the
main needle bar.
This fulcrum controller has a finger and above the controller is a stand having a
cam shaped depending end.
On the fulcrum is a lever the front inner side of which, next to the cutter carrier,
is bevelled, while the opposite end of the said lever has jointed to it a finger acted
upon by a spring normally pressing it toward the inclined face of the projection and
holding it above or in line of movement with the rigid finger.
Supposing a button hole about to be started, the first stitching being the barring
of one end, and in such condition the secondary needle will be lifted and the
pivotted finger will lie in contact with one side of the rigid finger, and the dog will
be in its inoperative position.
When the bar at the commencing end of the button hole is finished, the fulcrum
will be lowered, the coupling will be thrown in to unite the secondary and main
needle bars, and the throw of the work-holder will be shortened so that each needle
works simultaneously on opposite sides of what is to be the button hole slit, and as
the work holder is moved longitudinally both sides of the centre line of the button
hole will receive over edge and depth stitches.
As the stitching arrives at the end of the depth and over edge stitches for the sides
of the button hole, and preparatory to making the second or final bar, the the button
hele slit is cut. To effect this I provide the fulcrum controller with a finger which
during the depth stitching occupies a position below the end of the movable finger of
the lever and the stud will at such time occupy a position in the part of the
groove.
Just about as the last of the depth and over edge stitches is to be made and by
the descent of both needle bars the cam rise acts upon said roller stud and effects
the partial rise of the fulcrum controller causing the rigid finger to act against the
end of the lever depressing the right hand end of said lever so that it immediately
acts to push the dog to the right, so that as the main needle bar with the secondary
needle bar again descends, a projection extended from said needle bar will catch the
pin of said dog and will effect the descent of the cutter carrier and cutter to cut
the button hole slit, and after this last descent of the two needle bars in unison, the
one part of the cam acting on the said roller stud and further lifting the fulcrum
controller such further movement moving the lever far enough to effect the uncoup-
ling of the secondary_needle bar from the main needle bar at the up stroke of the
said needle bars following the cutting of the button hole slit, the said final upward
movement of the said fulcrum controller also causing the finger, operating against

page_text: '
the pivotted finger to force it against a suitable stationary incline so as to force
said pivotted finger aside from contact with the finger by the time that the
uncoupling of the needle, bars has been effected, the instant that the pivotted finger
is pushed off from the finger, the spring acts to remove the inclined right hand end.
of the lever from the dog, letting it be acted upon by its spring to put the pin of
said dog out of the range of movement of said projection.
The two needle bars having been uncoupled, the roller or other stud will ride on
the cam ledge while the bar to finish the end of the button hole is being made, and
the machine will be stopped with the roller stud yet on said ledge so that the
material having been changed, and the machine again started, a bar will be first
made.
While the barring is being done, as stated, the end of the pivotted finger will
stand at one side of the rigid finger but when the said finger again descends to effect
the recoupling of the two needle bars for the depth stitch along what is to be the
two edges of the button hole, then the rigid finger is pulled down below the pivotted
finger letting the spring act to again put the latter finger in position above the rigid
finger to be again acted upon by the rising finger when the slit is to be cut and the
second bar to be made, as has been described.
It will be remembered that the barring stitches will be about eight in number, and.
that four of these bar stitches may make the second or final bar when the machine
will be automatically stopped with the secondary needle in its inoperative position,
and the new button hole will be started and barred while the secondary needle is out
of operative position permitting the remaining, say, four stitches, to be used for the
commencement of the bar for a second button hole.
t
I may readily adapt the machine so that I may take any number of stitches for
barring.
The shaft has mounted loosely on it a belt pulley driven by a belt from any usual
driving source.
This pulley has a projecting flange, and the outer side of the pulley is cut to leave
a cam ledge the inner edge of said cam ledge being the outer edge of a ring; the said
cam ring being loosely mounted on the hub of said pulley the said ring being held in
position on said hub in a yielding manner by a spring resting at one end at the end
of said recess, the other end of the spring acting on a pin extended from the cam
ring through a 'slot' in said pulley.
At the outer side of this loose pulley and on the shaft is fixed a hub having a
shoulder said hub having a clutch lever having extended from one side of it a toe
entering the space between the cam ledge and the cam ring, a spring connected with
said hub and with said clutch lever normally acting to keep said toe seated on the
cam portion of the cam ring, and when said toe is so seated on the cam portion of said
ring the rotation of the pulley acting through the clutch lever causes the clutch to
be carried about with the main shaft, and said clutch pivotted on the hub fast on the
shaft carries the main shaft with it.
The outer end of the clutch lever is extended far enough so that it may, at the
desired times, be acted upon by a projection on a rock shaft.
This lever receives in its side a screw which is surrounded loosely by an eccentric
sleeve and said eccentric sleeve is surrounded by one end of a pawl, said pawl being
acted upon by a spring which normally keeps the free end of said pawl pressed
against the hub.
In the stop motion mechanism are added the following devices:
To the rock shaft is added an arın acted upon by a spring serving normally, when
permitted, to act to turn the last named lever and put the projection in the range of
movement of the outer end of the clutch lever to stop the machine, and as soon as
said projection engages said clutch lever, which is done at a predetermined position
in the rotation of the machine, the hub owing to the strains upon it, is given a slight
retrograde movement sufficient to bring its shoulder against the pawl said pawl
serving to arrest the movement of the main shaft at a predetermined position.
The said rock shaft has an arm upon which is pivotted a controlling latch

page_text: said latch being notched to present a shoulder and having also a cam, the lower
end of said controlling latch being united by a pin and slot connection with the
end of an arm connected with a rock shaft, said rock shaft having a second arm
having attached to it a rod in turn connected with any usual lever or device,
under the control of, preferably, the leg of an operator, so that said operator by
turning said rock shaft depresses said controlling latch and removes the projection
from the clutch lever, freeing the clutch lever so that it starts the shaft.
The controlling latch as it is depressed, puts the shoulder thereof, through the
action of the spring under and so as to engage a stud, projecting from a suitable
bracket fixed to the head of the machine.
The said controlling cam has a projection which when four of the barring stitches
have been made strikes the cam of the controlling latch and pushes it laterally so as
to free said latch letting the spring immediately assume control of the rock shaft and
put the projection in position to engage the clutch lever and effect the stopping of
the shaft as the main needle bar containing the barring needle arrives in its elevated
position ready to make, say, the fifth descent, of the selected number of barring
stitches herein before referred to as eight.
The machine will be held stopped while the operator removes the material
containing the finished button-hole from the work holder, and supply in its place
other material to be stitched for a button hole, and only the main needle bar having
the needle to make the barring stitch occupies its elevated position, and the secondary
needle bar having the secondary needle and employed only when the depth and over
edge stitch is being made along the sides of the button hole is then in its inoperative
position.
Now when the machine is again started by the operator turning the rock shaft, the
first stitch made will be, say, the fifth of the barring stitches, and it will commence
the barring for the end of a button hole next to be made, and as soon as the said
remaining four stitches have been made to produce this first bar, then the secondary
needle bar is unlocked and coupled with the main needle bar while the depth stitches
are being made back from the edge of what is to be the button hole slit.
Dated the 15th day of March 1898.
WM. BROOKES & SON,
55 & 56, Chancery Lane, London, Agents for the Applicant.
A communication from abroad by THE REECE BUTTON HOLE MACHINE COMPANY, of
Portland, in the State of Maine, one of the United States of America.
.
I, ALFRED GEORGE BROOKES, of 55 and 56, Chancery Lane, in the County of
London, Chartered Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature of this invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement:-
In button hole stitching machines now commonly in use, the material in which the
button hole is to be worked by stitches is held in a workholder or clamp, and either
the clamp is moved laterally, or the needle bar is moved laterally for the pro-
duction of the depth and over edge stitch, and commonly one side of the button hole
is stitched complete and then the other side is stitched, such method. of stitching
requiring two complete movements of the work holder, longitudinally or in the
direction of length of the button hole for a distance equal to the length of the button
hole it is desired to make, the movement in one direction enabling the depth stitch

page_text: to be inade along one side, and the reverse movement along the opposite side of
the button hole.
So also in button hole stitching machines such as described in the specification of
patent to Nicoll, dated June 24, 1864, No. 1594, a needle bar has been provided with
two needles, and the material having the button hole to be stitched is mounted on a
clamp or work holder which is moved longitudinally and laterally, under the needles,
each needle stitching but one edge of the button hole, both needles operating
simultaneously to thus stitch at the same time both edges of the button hole.
In their studies to improve button hole stitching machines, my correspondents
have devised a machine employing two needles, each carried by its own bar, each
needle having cooperating with it a suitable under or second thread carrier,
and these two needles act to make the depth and over edge stitch for both
sides of the button hole during one feeding movement of the work holder or
clamp.
The machine has been especially devised for making some barring stitches just
before commencing the two lines of depth and over edge, stitching, and also just
after the completion of said two lines of depth and over edge stitching, if it be
desired to bar both ends of the button hole, the button hole being stitched and
barred automatically in the machine by one continued operation.
The machine herein to be described as embodying this invention in one practical
form has two eye pointed thread carrying needles, and each needle is connected with
and carried by its own needle bar, one of said bars in the forin in which this invention
is herein shown being fitted to slide within the other, and being operated at times by
the other through a coupling mechanism, or coupling.
These two needle bars when the depth and over edge stitch being made are
inoved in unison as in said Nicoll patent and each needle passes through the material,
but when the barring of the ends of the button hole is being done, one of these
needles, which inay be called the secondary needle, is put temporarily out of
operative position, and the other, or main needle, as it may be called, is employed
alone to make the bar stitches, and while this barring is being done the length of
the depth stitch movement is preferably increased so as to make the stitch
substantially twice as long as the usual distance between the over-edge and depth
stitches between the two bars.
These barring stitches may be, however, of any desired length and number and
one will preferably be superimposed on the other, the longitudinal or feeding
movement of the work, or the movement to enable stitching to take place in the
direction of the length of the button hole, being at such time suspended, or
substantially so.
By the use of this machine I am enabled to save about one-half of the time now
commonly taken to stitch and bar a button hole and consequently owing to this
saving in time I may stitch and bar in a given time a greatly increased number of
button holes, thus decreasing the cost of their production.
When the secondary needle is thrown out of operation, its thread has to be
clamped and controlled between the needle and the take up to thereby prevent any
liability of the thread fouling under the main needle which continues to operate
in making a bar.
The button hole herein to be, made must be cut and this may, and preferably
will be done, after making the barring stitches at that end of the button hole
which is the first to be barred.
'
Fig. 1, in elevation partially broken out, shows the rear side of a button hole
stitching machine embodying this invention;
"
Fig. 2 is a longitudinal section of the main needle bar showing the secondary bar
within it and the coupling to unite them when desired, as will be described;
Fig. 3 is a section taken through the two needle bars, Fig. 2, in the
line x;
Fig. 4 is a section below the dotted line of Fig. 1;
"
Fig. 5 is an enlarged detail in cross section of the work holder or clamp;

page_text: Fig. 6 is an enlarged detail showing the method of making a button ·hole in
accordance with this invention;
Fig. 6 shows one form of coupling for uniting the secondary and main needle
bars detached;
Fig. 6B, a detail showing the device carrying the coupling device to couple together
the needle bars;
Fig. 7 is an end view of the machine looking at it from the left Fig. 1 ; the
uprights supporting the overhanging arm being broken off;
Fig. 8 is a section in the line x², Fig. 4;
Fig. 9 is a section in the dotted line 3, of Fig. 4;
Fig. 10 is a detail showing in section the collar to which is attached the
link 7:
Fig. 11 is a sectional detail in the line 6, Fig. 1;
Fig. 12 shows in section the collar g³ and the stud on, which it is mounted.
Fig. 13 shows in front elevation and plan the auxiliary controller for the secondary
needle thread;
Fig. 14 is a detail front elevation partially broken out chiefly to represent the
cutting mechanism; and
Fig. 15-is a section below the line y of Fig. 14;
Fig. 16 shows the dog of the cutter carrier removed and enlarged;
Fig. 17, an end view of the machine chiefly to show the starting and stopping
mechanism.
Fig. 18 shows the cam ring and pulley in face view;
Fig. 19 a detail to be referred to;
Fig. 20 is a detail showing the pawl carrier d¹³ detached; and
Fig. 21 shows the lever die with its sector 16 detached.
The bed plate A having the overhanging arm A2 carrying the main needle bar
actuating shaft m; the take up m10, shown by dotted lines in Fig. 1; the cam fast
on the shaft m for operating it; the hooks d, d³, forming complementary stitch
forming mechanism cooperating with the two needles to be described, said hooks
containing thread cases provided with under or second threads, and the means for
rotating the said hook are and may be all as common.
The under thread carrying mechanism is herein shown as of the rotary class the
same as that represented in the well known Wheeler & Wilson class of sewing
machine, but instead of the two under thread carrying mechanisms shown I may
substitute any other two usual under thread carrying mechanisms.
In the usual sewing machine one needle bar carries two needles, but herein the
needle bar a, which I will in this description sometimes designate as a main needle
bar, it being operated by usual means, is shown as grooved longitudinally to receive
within it a secondary needle bar b.
The needle bar a has an attachéd eye pointed needle a², and the secondary needle
bar b has an eye pointed needle b¹.
To enable the object and purpose of this invention to be more readily understood,
I will first refer to Fig. 6, which represents, in diagram, a button hole stitched in
accordance with this invention.
In that figure let a represent the material, a³ the line of the button hole slit in
the material, and a, a, the bar stitches, a, a, the depth stitches, or the stitches
which are made through the material back from the edge of the button hole.
The stitches in Fig. 6 are represented as widely separated in order to better show
"the appearance of the stitch, and the space between the over edge stitches at one
and at the other side of what is to be the button-hole slit is also enlarged for the
sake of this description, but in practice the over edge stitches will come substantially
to the line a³, to make an edge finish for the edges of the button hole.
In the diagram the stitches a³, a plurality of them, preferably four, are first made
in the material by the needle a², the secondary needle b¹, at such time, occupying its
inoperative or abnormal position, as represented in Fig. 1, and these bar stitches may

page_text: be, as shown, of a length to cross the line a³, they being preferably substantially
twice as long as the distance between the over edge and depth stitches.
The bar stitches having been made, and preferably superimposed one on the other
and the slit cut, the secondary needle will be put automatically into the position
Fig. 2 where the eyes of both of the needles stand in substantially the same
horizontal plane in operative position, and thereafter while the two needles are in
such position their needle bars will be reciprocated so that said needles with their
independent threads aº, a¹º, (Fig. 1) will stitch at each descent each at its own side
of said centre line a, or slit which may be cut as stated, each needle descending at
one thrust through the material in substantially the same centre line or close to it to
make the stitch which will be exposed at the edge of the button hole, and at its
next descent it will pass through the material bick from said centre line equal to
the width required, and this stitching will be continued by a change in the relative
position of the work holder or cloth clamp and the needles, until the button hole has
been worked for the desired length, the workholder in the meantime being moved
longitudinally or in the direction of the length of the button hole, and this length
having been determined, the secondary needle is again temporarily automatically put
out of operation while the main needle ² continues to stitch the length of lateral
movement for the bar stitching being again automatically increased until said needle
has made the desired number of stitches predetermined to constitute the bar, pre-
ferably four stitches, but it may be more or less.
At this position of the operative parts, the machine may be stopped automatically
and the material containing the button hole barred at both ends may be removed
from the work holder, and the material be again put into the work holder to make
another button hole, and at the reverse movement of the work holder another button
hole will be made and barred.
The material a¹ is herein represented as adapted to be held in a work holder or
clamp, which I will now describe.
To the work-supporting plate A of the machine I attach by suitable screws a plate C,
provided with a guiding groove or way in which is placed the end c¹ of a slide c²
provided at its end nearest the stitch forming mechanism with a cross or transverse
slot 3, said slot receiving in it loosely a block c connected with a bar c³, having
attached to it, as by a screw c", a spring plate c7, resting on the usual needle plate c³,
it being provided with two needle holes 3, 4, one for the needle a² and the other for
the needle b', they passing through said holes in order to present the threads carried
by them to the points of the hooks d, d¹.
The spring plate c is provided with an opening cº, see Fig. 4, through which to
readily gain access to the bobbin case in the hook d, when the usual cover plate clo
has been withdrawn.
The bar also has erected upon it a stand c12, having jointed to it at c¹³ an arm c¹+
to which is attached a spring arm c, said spring arm carrying a rigid arin c16, threaded
for the reception of a stud screw c17 on which is mounted a fork 5, having journaled
in its end a rocking open-centred foot c¹s, preferably toothed at its underside and
bearing directly upon the material a¹, see Fig. 5, said foot pressing the material in
which the button hole is to be stitched into the space in the spring plate e and
directly upon the needle throat plate.
The left hand end of the bar c, see Figs. 1 and 4, is extended through a slot,
represented by dotted lines at the underside of the detachable plate 3x forming one
side of the slot 3, and the end of said bar is attached to the block c by suitable screws,
as 6, one of which is shown in Fig: 4.
To impart to this work-holder its longitudinal movement, which term I have used
herein to designate that movement of the work holder in the direction of the length
of the button hole, I employ the following means:-
The block c is threaded to receive a stud screw d* which is passed through a hole
in one end of a link d¹x, the opposite end of the said link surrounding loosely the
neck d³, see Fig. 8, of a handle post d², said neck being threaded interiorly to receive
a screw d', the sides of the head of said screw being "slabbed" or formed to fit the
י,

page_text: .
:
:
walls of the diametrical groove do of a toothed gear d, having its hub dx entered in
a hole in a part of the slide c beyond the slot c³, said hub being held down in said
slide by a suitable screw 102, and a washer 103.
The groove do is enlarged at one end, as at ³, to permit the entrance of the head
of the screw d'.
.
By turning the handle post, the point of connection of the neck, which constitutes
a crank pin with relation to the centre of said toothed gear d', may be readily
adjusted to correspond with the length of button hole to be made, for the greater the
distance of the said crank pin from the centre of rotation of said toothed wheel the
longer the button hole and vice versa.
This toothed wheel derives its motion from a pinion do, mounted on a stud 8, see
Fig. 8; carried by the plate c², the upper end of said stud entering a hole in and
being steadied by a bracket 10 secured to the said movable plate c² by screws 12.
A stud screw 13 enters said stud 8 and its head overlaps the bracket.
The pinion ¹ has secured to or made as a part of it a ratchet wheel di², which is
engaged by a pawl pivotted at 14 on a pawl carrier d, said pawl carrier having
a hole in its end which, as herein shown, surrounds the sleeve like hub 14 of the com-
bined pinion and ratchet wheel, the circular inner end of said pawl carrier, see
Fig. 20, having a series of teeth 15, shown by dotted lines Fig. 4 and in full lines
Fig. 8, said teeth being engaged by the teeth of a sector 16, shown separately
in Fig. 21, and also by dotted lines in Fig. 4, extended from one side of a slotted
lever de pivotted at 17, upon the said sliding plate c² the slot of the said lever die
receiving in it loosely a stud 17 carried by and extended down thereinto from an
arm 18 having a threaded foot of dovetail shape in cross section, it entering a dove-
tailed guiding groove to made in the fixed plate C, said threaded. foot being entered
by a screw 19 having a head provided with an annular groove 20, said groove being
entered by a notched ear 21 rising from the said plate C, the said screw being free to be
rotated but not to slide with relation to said plate C, the rotation of said screw by
hand causing the arm 18 to be moved, thus moving the stad 17 longitudinally in the
slot of the lever 10.
The rotation of the screw in one or the other direction controls the spacing of one
stitch from another in the direction of the length of the button hole.
The plate c² and the work holder herein shown, derive their lateral movement or
movement parallel to the overhanging arm and at right angles to the length of the
.button hole slit to make what is herein designated as the " depth" and "over
edge" stitches by or through devices, one form of which I will now describe, and in
such movement, the work holder is so actuated as to space the depth and over edge
stitches.
The main shaft m has fast on it a hub m¹ provided with a crossing groove m² in
which is placed a shoe m³ loosely held by a stud m3x, in the upper end of a lever m*,
jointed at its lower end to a stud m³, projected from an ear me rising from the inner
end c¹ of the slide. c, said lever being slotted as at m³ to embrace an adjustable
fulcrum m8 so that according to the position of said fulcrum in the slot of said lever,
the said lever having its upper end moved a uniform distance at each rotation of the
main shaft, will have its lower or short arms and the connected slide c² moved for a
greater or less distance, that depending upon the length of throw desired for the
workholder to effect the depth and over edge stitch movement, the said depth stitch
movement being increased in length, as stated, for "barring."
the
As the plate c² is moved to the right, viewing Fig. 4, by the lever m
gears d', do, are also moved, and with them the pawl carrier d15, its pawl 13. being
then in engagement with the ratchet teeth 12 of the gear 10, and during this move-
ment, owing to the fact that the teeth 15 of said pawl carrier (15 are in engagement
with the teeth of the sector 16 extended from the lever 16 then held stationary by
the arm 18 and its stud 17, the said pawl carrier is rotated about the hub of the
gear do, causing the pawl 13 in engagement with the ratchet teeth 12 to turn said
toothed gear 10 and with it the gear d', the extent of this rotation. being governed,
it will be understood, by the position of the stud 17 in the slot of the lever d
for
5

page_text: the nearer the said stud to the pin 1, connecting said lever to the movable or
sliding plate c², the greater the movement of the pinion do, and vice versa.
The bed plate C has erected upon it a stand e, said stand being fixed in position
by a screw e¹, and this stand is slotted at e² and receives in it the said fulcrum m³,
the devices for raising and lowering this fulcrum being, as herein shown, arranged
outside of the stand and opposite the lever m*.
The devices for raising and lowering this fulcrum automatically may be a fork e³,
carried by an arın e4 of a rock shaft e, mounted in bearings e of a stand e", erected
upon the bed A of the frame, said rock shaft having, as herein shown, at its outer
end, an arm es, provided with a roller or other stud 9, see Fig. 7, which enters
a, cam groove elo, in a rotating controlling or cam wheel e¹², said cam wheel having
along side of it a gear e¹³, having its periphery provided with teeth cut to be
engaged by the teeth of a worm e14, on a shaft e¹, herein represented as provided
with a bevelled pinion e¹, which, is engaged and rotated by a bevel pinion e¹ on
the usual under or lower shaft els, said shaft being employed in usual manner to
actuate the shafts carrying the hooks. d, d', as for instance in the manner of the
well known Wheeler and Wilson sewing machine.
As I have chosen to illustrate this invention, the relative change of position of
the material in which the button hole is being stitched, and the needle is effected.
entirely through the work holder, but it will be remembered that it is common in
button hole stitching machines to move the needle backward and forward for the
production of the depth stitch, so that this invention to be described is not limited
to the exact means herein represented to effect the change of position of the material
for the depth stitch.
The main needle bar a has in it a hole 20, see Fig. 2, and dotted lines Fig. 1, and
the secondary needle bar has mounted loosely in it a movable coupling 21, shown as
a pin having a head 22 provided with a groove 23, see Fig. 6A, said head being
adapted to enter a slot 24 in a movable stand 25 (see Fig. 6B), said stand having at
its lower end a plurality of pins as 26, which can be made to enter loosely suitable
holes 27 in the head of the machine (see Fig. 1).
This stand, when depth and over edge stitching is being done, is acted upon by a
suitable spring, as 27x, which presses the base of the stand firmly against the head,
and at the same time causes the coupling 21 to enter the hole 20 in the main needle
bar as it is reciprocated in usual manner by or through the link f connecting a collar
on said bar with a crank pin secured to the front end of the take up, cam operating
hub f¹ reciprocates the secondary needle bar b, with it, causing both needles to
penetrate the material, but when barring is to be done, and the distance between the
over edge and depth stitch is to be altered and increased to make the bar, for which
operation the fulcrum m³ must be raised, the raising of said fulcrum causing the
arm g, forked to embrace a part of said fulcrum and connected at its opposite end to
a sleeve inounted loosely on a stud screw g¹, supported on a stand g², to be moved.
This sleeve has mounted upon it a collar g³, the collar being made adjustable on
the sleeve by a set screw g¹.
This collar has an ear g³, see the sectional detail Fig. 10, which receives one end
of a link go, provided at its upper end with a stud 97, which is adjustable in a slot g³ of
a lever gº, herein shown as an elbow lever pivotted at glo on the overhanging arm
of the machine, the opposite end of said elbow lever having a stud screw g¹² tapped
at its opposite end, see Fig. 11, the said screw receiving over it loosely a sleeve g¹³
having at its interior a web, as g14, a screw 15 entering a hole in this web loosely,
being screwed into the tapped hole in the stud 912, so that said sleeve is free to turn
loosely on said stud screw as the lever gº is moved backward and forward.
This sleeve also has a hole h, which receives in it one end of a rod h¹, and said rod
is made adjustable in said sleeve by or through a set screw h², the free or right hand
end of said rod, see Fig. 1, after passing through a suitable hole in the head of the
machine acting against the lower end of the stand 25 to push said stand away from
said head and in opposition to the spring 27*.
13.
The pushing of this stand to the right viewing Fig: 1 causes it to withdraw from

page_text: the bar a, the coupling 21 carried by the secondary needle bar; this being always
done when the main needle bar is in its highest position.
The uncoupling movement described for this stand causes its lower end to act on
the tail of a pawl 30, pivotted at 31, forcing the acting end of said pawl quickly into
a notch, as 32, in the secondary needle bar, thus locking said bar in its abnormal or
inoperative position, it remaining so locked while the main needle bar a is reciprocated
to make the bar stitches, these bar stitches being made, it will be remembered, only
when the fulcrum m8 is elevated.
The pawl 30 is normally acted upon by a spring 33, partially shown in Fig. 1, said
spring when permitted to do so, by the movement of the stand 25 to the left in Fig. 1
to couple the secondary needle bar with the main needle bar, acting to instantly
withdraw the pawl 30 from the notch 32 and let the secondary needle bar move in
unison with the main needle bar.
Referring again to the diagram Fig. 6, I have therein shown the main and the
secondary needle a² 1.
The main needle occupies, as shown in the diagram Fig. 6, a position substantially
at the line of slit of the button hole, where it makes the over edge stitch, and the
secondary needle occupies its depth stitch position at the other side of what is to be
the button hole slit, but at the next descent of the said needles, the needle b¹ will
descend in the line h to make an over edge stitch, and the needle a² will descend in
the line, to make a depth stitch, these needles changing their positions from
the line of slit of the button hole, or the over edge stitch line, to the depth stitch
line alternately, each needle working the over edge and depth stitch for one half, of
the button hole, each completing one edge of the button hole as the material is
being fed longitudinally or in the direction of the length of the button hole, so that
at each complete movement of the inaterial longitudinally in one and in the opposite
direction a button hole is completed.
In Fig. 6 I have omitted part of the depth and over edge stitches, but I have
shown the second or final barring aº, and it will be understood that the button hole
may, by the mechanism herein described, be barred at one end before the stitching
of the depth and over edge stitch, and at its other end after the completion of the
stitching of the depth and over edge stitch.
The fulcrum m8 is shown as detached in Fig. 9, and in said Fig., as well as in
Figs. 4 and 7, it will be seen that the fork or fulcrum controller is made yoke
shaped or double, and that said fork spans not only the lever mt, but also the stand e,
such shaped forked acting in a superior manner to lift the fulcrum squarely, and
without any liability of its binding.
}
The fulcrum ms made as a stud has a chamber 120 at one end, and beyond said
chamber it has a collar 4 which rests against the lever m4, and at the outer or left
hand end of the stand e the fulcruin has screwed upon its threaded portion a
collar n, said collar being provided with an annular groove to receive the forked
end g of the arm g, and this collar is acted upon by a set nut, as n, said nut acting
as a check nut for the collar.
The chamber 20 at the end of this fulerum stud receives the ball like end 10 of
an elbow lever n³x, nox, Fig. 7, mounted to turn freely on a stud n, erected in a
stand nsx, fixed on the bed A of the machine.
When the "barring " is being done, the longitudinal or feeding movement, or the
movement of the material in the direction of the length of the button hole is to be
stopped as the fulcrum m³ is lifted preparatory to making the bar stitches, the said
fulcrum also moves the lever nx, causing its end nox to act upon the tail of the
pawl ds, thereby removing said pawl from engagement with the ratchet teeth 12
and suspending the further rotation of the said pinion do and tooth wheel d7 while
the barring is being effected, but as soon as the fulcrum is lowered and the secondary
needle bar is coupled to the main' needle bar preparatory to making the depth
stitches for finishing the button hole slit, such movement causes the arm mox of the
lever to retire from the tail of said pawl and let the pawl immediately commence to
actuate the ratchet wheel and gear to impart to the work holder its longitudinal

page_text: movement required to feed material in the direction of the length of the button
hole.
In the machine herein described the threads employed will be subjected to the
action of any usual or suitable tension devices and slack thread controller, such for
instance as common to the said Wheeler and Wilson machine; and preferably the
thread a supplying the secondary, needle will have co-operating with it an auxiliary
clamp or thread controller, which will temporarily come into operation when the
secondary needle bar is uncoupled from the main needle bar to be left in its inopera-
tive or abnormal position, said auxiliary controller at such times clamping and hold-
ing the slack in the thread 10, so that it shall not by any means foul on the cloth
under the point to the main needle a².
In Fig. 13, I have shown a detail of one form of this auxiliary thread controller,
which I will now refer to.
This thread controller is composed of a hollow stud screw n, screwed into the
removable cap covering the needle bar and, head of the machine, said stud screw
being slotted, as at n³ and threaded interiorly for a short distance to receive a screw n.
This bollow stud screw has applied to it two discs no, no, the one no resting at its
outer side against the head of the screw n', the other disc being acted upon by a
rod n extended through the hollow stud screw leaving its end exposed to be acted
upon. by a projection n³, shown best in Fig. 1, attached to and depending from the
lower end of the stand or coupling carrier or actuator 25; said projection ns when
the said carrier is moved to the right, viewing Fig. 1, to uncouple the secondary
needle bar from the main needle bar and leave it at rest in its inoperative position,
acting on the said rod, causing it to force the disc n against the thread lying between
it and the disen, such movement clamping the secondary needle thread and prevent-
ing it from fouling at and below the main needle.'
This needle thread is unclamped immediately and left free. when the coupling
actuator 25 is again moved by or through its spring to unite the secondary and main
needle bars for depth and over edge stitching.
The slit for the button-hole herein described may and preferably will be made in-
mediately after the first bar for the commencing end of the button hole has been
made, thus leaving the slit all ready to be over stitched by the two needles co-operat-
ing together but this invention is not herein limited to the exact point or time at
which the slit is cut as it will be obvious that by the exercise of simply mechanical
skill that is by adjusting the controller e12 the cutting mechanism might be timed to
operate at any desired stage.
The cutting mechanism herein shown has been especially adapted for this novel
sewing machine and it will now be described.
In place of the usual presser foot bar I have mounted a cutter carrier bar o, it
having as herein shown, see Fig. 14 a movable dog o¹, the head of which is exposed
at the side of the head of the machine, the lower end of the bar having a block o²
provided as herein shown, with two holes, a spring o" normally acting to keep the said
carrier in its elevated position.
The dog o¹, see Figs. 14 and 16, is shown as made hollow for part of its length to
receive a pin ox having a bevelled end, said dog being slotted at s to receive a pin 8,
a spring in the hollow of the dog acting against said pin to normally press outwardly
the bevelled end of said dog.
This dog is surrounded by a spring which acts normally to pull the pin end
of the dog, out of the path of movement of the projection r, carried by the main needle
bar.
The needle bar a is slotted, as shown at 20%, see Figs. 2, 3 and 15, to receive a thin
blade or cutter ot shown as of quadrilateral shape, the two ends 31* of the quadri-
lateral shaped cutter enabling a very thin blade to be used..
This blade has attached to one of its ends two like pins 32x which extend through
the holes in the head o2 of the carrier bar o, and the inner or rear side 33* of this
quadrilateral cutter is slotted, as shown by dotted lines 34, said slot receiving a pin 35
at the end of the rigid portion, cl carrying the foot of the work-holder, said pro-

page_text: jection standing. in said slot 34 causing the cutter. to travel longitudinally back and
forth in the slot of the needle bar in the direction of the length of the button hole
with the workholder, said slot 34 being long enough to also permit the cutter to rise
and fall at
times.
proper
=
The wheel e constitutes what I call the "controlling wheel," as it controls the
time at which the barring shall take place, and also the cutting of the button hole,
and it may also control the time of stopping the button hole when the second bar is
made and finished.
I shall also designate herein the yoke 3 as the fulcrum controller, for the reason
that it, in its movements, varies the position of the fulcrum ms, to not only make
the stitch longer from what is to be the slit of the button hole, or shorter as may be
desired, and as has been hereinbefore described, but also to uncouple the secondary
needle-bar from the main needle bar.
This fulcrum controller e has been provided with an upright or finger p, and
above the controller I have located a stand p' having a cam shaped depending
end p².
On the fulcruin glo I have mounted a lever p3, the front inner side of which, next
to the cutter carrier, is bevelled, see Fig. 14, while the opposite or left hand end of
the said lever p³ has jointed to it a finger pt which is acted upon by a spring 2, said
spring normally pressing the said pivotted finger pt toward the inclined face of the
projection p² and holding the said finger above or in line of movement with the rigid
finger p.
It will be remembered that the barring stitches will be about eight in number, and
that four of these barring stitches will be used in each bar.
In the operation of the machine the controller e¹2 is stopped with one half of these
stitches exhausted, as in Fig. 7, it being stopped immediately after making the second
bar of a button hole, so that when the machine is again started the first stitching to
be done will be the first bar of the button hole to be then commenced.
It will, therefore, be supposed that a buttonhole is about to be started, the
controller e being in the position shown in Fig. 7, the secondary needle bar being
uncoupled leaving only the main needle-bar aud its needle in operative position, and
at such time the fulcrum m³ occupies a position to ensure the longest depth stitch
throw for barring.
Now the machine is started the controller e12 is moved and as the controller e" of
the lever et runs on the cam ledge 52 four barring stitches will be made, and as soon
as the portion 51 of the controller e12 comes into operative position it causes the
fulcrum ms to be partially lowered sufficiently to put the end of the finger p, moved
thereby, in position just below the pivoted end p' of the lever p³, so that the spring p
carried by said lever, immediately turns the pivotted end p over the top of the
finger p, which done the fulcrum controller m³ is again raised sufficiently to turn the
lever p³ far enough to cause its right hand end or free end to act upon the dog ol
and slide it out through the cutter bar o, so that the pin o* of the dog is projected
into the path of the descending main needle bar in order that the projection from
said needle bar may meet said pin and depress the cutter, cutting the slit for the
button hole immediately after making the first bar.
During this rising movement of the finger p the pivoted end pt of the lever ³ is
pushed against a depending cam shaped end p² of a suitable stand p², which turns the
said end of the lever p³ outwardly from contact with the finger p, and then the
said finger begins to descend a second time and the spring p7 immediately moves
the lever p³ into its inoperative position in Fig. 1, thus ensuring but one stroke for
the cutter.
The first descent, above referred to, of the finger p was for a distance sufficient
only to let the end of the finger pass just. below the pivoted end p* of the lever p³,
but at this second descent of the finger, which is just referred to, it is lowered for a
further distance, a distance sufficient to effect the decrease of the depth stitch
throw of the cloth clamp and also to effect the coupling of the main and
secondary needle-bars so that thereafter the said needles will work simultaneously

page_text: on opposite sides of the buttonhole slit while the work holder is moved longitudinally,
and consequently both sides of the buttonhole will receive uniformly over-edge or
depth stitches. When the depth stitches have been made for a distance desired for
the length of the buttonhole, the cam throw comes into operative position on the
roller eo, and the fulcrum m8 is again raised to increase the depth stitch stroke for
enabling the second bar, or the bar to finish the buttonhole to be made, and at the
same time the secondary needle bar is uncoupled from the main needle bar so that
only the main needle bar and needle operates during the formation of this second or
finishing bar for the button hole. During the formation of this second or finishing
bar the roller e travels over the first half of the cam ledge 52, and arriving in the
position, Fig. 7, the machine is automatically stopped.
In this way, it will be understood, that a button-hole is 'finished during each
rotation of the controller e¹2, and that the machine starts with the roller e substan-
tially midway of the length of the cam ledge 52, so that a bar and then two edges
are over-stitched and another bar made, a button hole being finished during each.
complete longitudinal movement of the work-holder in both of its directions of
movement..
While the depth stitching is being done, both needles working simultaneously, the
roller.or other stud e occupies a position in the part 50 of the groove e¹0. The
spring p, Fig. 1, acts instantly to remove the inclined right hand end of the lever p³
from the dog of letting it be acted upon by its spring so as to move the dog and put
the pin of thereof instantly out of the range of movement of the projection 7 of the
main needle bar so that the cutter cannot be operated a second time as it otherwise
would be at the next down stroke of the needle bar.
In practice the cutter will be arranged as closely as possible to the main needle a²,
and the machine will be so timed that the cutter will descend only when the main
needle descends next to the point where the cut is to be made.
My correspondents believing themselves to be the first to employ in a sewing
machine for making button holes, two needle bars, each having its own needle, and
to.so control the movement of said bars that both of them may be used together for
depth and over edge stitching, and one of them only for barring, I desire to have it
understood that this invention is not-limited to the specific means herein shown for
coupling together the said two needle bars in order that they may be moved in unison
or for uncoupling one of said bars from the main needle bar, and locking it again in
its abnormal position, for it will be obvious to one skilled in the art that many devices
might be devised for effecting this coupling and locking of the said secondary needle
bar from or with relation to the main needle bar without the employment of invention
using only the skill of the mechanic, and so also I have shown one particular. means
for automatically and instantly varying the throw of the work holder to follow the
depth and over edge stitching, so that the over edge and depth stitch may be longer
or shorter for barring.
I desire it to be understood that this invention is not limited to the exact means
herein shown for effecting this variation in stroke of the work holder for various
devices might also be devised for effecting this change automatically at predetermined
times with the exercise of only mechanical and not inventive skill.
Nor is this invention limited to the exact shape, form and construction of the work
holder, and it will be obvious that I may take other well known forms of work holders.
now commonly used in connection with sewing machines, and by suitable means
impart to such work holder the movement herein described and considered necessary
for the production of a button hole in the manner which I have described.
The machine herein described, it being adapted to finish a button hole at each
longitudinal movement of the work holder, the last work done on button hole
being the making of the second bar for the hole, must be stopped and started
automatically.
As I have herein before stated, it is found that about eight stitches of the cycle of
the machine are sufficient to make both bars, and I utilize four of these stitches for

page_text: the first bar, leaving four for the second bar, and by making the needle bars so that
one may be temporarily put into its inoperative position leaving the other needle bar
and its needle to make the barring stitches it is possible to do this, the needle
bar and needle employed for barring being the only one in operative position when
the button hole is commenced, and it, being the only one in inoperative position
when the button hole is finished by its second bar.
It will of course be understood, that I may readily adapt the machine so that I may
take any number of stitches other than eight, if desired, for barring.
The shaft m has mounted loosely on it a belt pulley a driven by a belt from any
usual driving source, not shown.
This pulley has a projecting flange ul, and the outer side of the pulley is cut to
leave a cam ledge u², the inner edge of said cam ledge being the outer edge of a
ring us, shown best in Fig. 18, the said can ring being loosely mounted on the hub of
said pulley u, the said ring being held in position on said hub in a yielding
manner, however, by a spring w, mounted in a recess on the inner face of said pulley,
said spring resting at one end at the end of said recess, the other end of the
spring acting on a pin u extended from the cam ring through a slot in the said
pulley.
At the outer side of this loose pulley and on the shaft m I have fixed by a suitable
key or otherwise a hub u, having a shoulder ux, said hub having pivotted upon it
at a clutch lever us, said lever having extended from one side of it at its
inner end a toe u³, said toe entering the space between the can ledge and the
cam ring u³, a spring us connected with said hub, see Fig. 19, and with said clutch
lever normally acting to keep said toe seated on the cam portion of the cam ring, and
when said toe is so seated on the cam portion of said ring the rotation of the pulley
acting through the clutch lever causes the clutch to be carried about with the main
shaft, and said clutch pivotted on the hub fast on the shaft carries the main shaft
with it.
The outer end, of the clutch lever u8 is extended far enough so that it may,
at the desired times, be acted upon by a projection u of. a lever u12 fast on a rock
shaft u13.
The lever 12 receives in its side a screw u¹t, which is surrounded loosely by an
eccentric sleeve u15, and the said eccentric sleeve is surrounded by one end of
a pawl ul, said pawl being acted upon by a spring u" which normally keeps the free
end of said pawl pressed against the hub uº.
The parts herein before referred to of the stop motion mechanism are sub-
stantially the same as shown in the Specification of Letters Patent granted to John
Reece No. 22,856, dated 13 December 1892, so need not herein be further
described.
I have added to these parts the following devices :
To the rock shaft u¹³ I have added an arm 18 acted upon by a spring w, said
spring serving normally, when permitted, to act to turn the lever uz and put the
projection in the range of inovement of the outer end of the clutch lever us to
stop the machine, and as soon as said, projection engages said clutch lever us,
which is done at a predetermined position in the rotation of the machine, the
hub u, owing to the strains upon it, is given a slight retrograde movement
sufficient to bring its shoulder ux against the pawl ulo, said pawl serving to arrest
the movement of the shaft m at a predetermined position.
4
The shaft 3 is also provided with an arm w upon which I have pivotted, at wl, a
controlling latch w², said latch being notched to present a shoulder w³ and having
also a cain w, the lower, end of said controlling latch being united by a pin and
slot connection with, the end of an arm w³, connected with a rock shaft we, said rock
shaft having a second arm w having attached to it a rod 8, in turn connected. with
any usual lever or device, under the control of, preferably, the leg of an operator, so
that said operator, by turning said rock shaft w in the direction of the arrow.near it
in Fig. 17, depresses, said controlling latch and removes the projection u¹ from-the

page_text: clutch lever, such movement immediately freeing the clutch lever so that it
automatically effects immediately the starting of the shaft in unison with the
constantly running belt pulley.
As the machine is started, as described, the controlling latch as it is depressed, puts
the shoulder w³ thereof, through the action of the spring 2, under and so as to
engage a stud 2010, projecting from a suitable bracket 10x fixed to the head of the
machine, as herein shown, by suitable screws w11.
The controlling cam el; herein before fully described, has a projection w¹, which
is so located with relation to said controlling cam that when four of the barring
stitches have been made, it will strike the cam w4 of the controlling latch and will
immediately push it laterally so as to. free said latch from the projection 2010,
letting the spring w immediately assume control of the rock shaft at and put the.
projection in position to engage the clutch lever us and effect the stopping of the
shalt m as the main needle bar a containing the barring needle arrives in its elevated
position ready to make, say, the fifth descent, of the selected number of barring
stitches hereinbefore referred to as eight.
The machine will be held stopped while the operator removes the material
containing the finished button hole from the work-holder, and supplies in its place
other material to be stitched for a button hole, and in this condition it will be_
remembered that only the main needle bar having the needle to make the
barring stitch occupies its elevated position, and the secondary needle bar
having the secondary needle and employed only when the depth and over edge
stitch is being made along the sides of the button-hole is then in its inoperative
position.
Now when the machine is again started by the operator turning the rock shaft 13,
as before described, the first stitch made will be, say, the fifth of the barring stitches, .
and it will commence the barring for the end of a button hole next to be made, and
as soon as the said remaining four stitches have been made to produce this first bar,
then the secondary needle bar is unlocked and coupled with the main needle-bar.
while the depth stitches. are being made back from the edge of what is to be the..
button hole slit:
The stop motion devices herein referred to are simple and efficient, but this
invention, is not to be limited in all instances to the employment of exactly the stop
motion mechanism hereinbefore referred to, as instead I may employ any other or .
usual suitable stop motion mechanism containing a clutch which inay be automatically
controlled to start and stop the machine on a defined stitch.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion, and in...what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I .
claim is :-
.
1. The use in a button hole sewing machine having a work clamp capable of being
moved longitudinally and laterally, the lateral movements being of different length,
of two independent needle bars each provided with an eye pointed needle, said needle
bars being operated in unison for stitching the opposite sides of a button hole slit, .
one of said needles being thrown out of operation and the other one employed for
barring the ends of the hole, substantially as described.
2. The use in a sewing machine having a main and a secondary needle bar each
provided with an eye pointed needle, and means to reciprocate said main needle-bar,
of a coupling device to couple said needle bars together so that the main bar
positively moved inay reciprocate the secondary bar with it, and means to automatic-
ally uncouple the said secondary needle bar from the said main bar, substantially as
described. :
3. The use in a sewing machine, having a main and a secondary needle bar each
provided with an eye pointed needle, and means to reciprocate said main needle bar,
of a coupling device to couple said needle bars together so that the main bar.
positively moved may reciprocate the secondary bar with it, means to automatically
4
'

page_text: uncouple the said secondary needle bar from the said main bar, and means to
automatically stop the stitching while the main bar only is being reciprocated, sub-
stantially as described.
4. The use in a sewing machine having a main and a secondary needle bar each
provided with an eye pointed needle, means to reciprocate said main needle bar, a
coupling device to couple said needle bars together that the positively moved main
bar may reciprocate the secondary bar with it, combined with means to automatically
uncouple the said secondary needle bar from the main bar, and means to lock and
hold stationary the said secondary bar while the reciprocating movement of the main
bar is continued, substantially as described.
5. A button hole stitching machine in which both sides of a button hole are
stitched simultaneously, one end being barred before and the other end after stitching
the said sides, whereby a button hole may be completed during one longitudinal
movement of the workholder in the direction of the length of the button hole,
substantially as described.
6. A button hole stitching machine containing stitch forming mechanism, a work
holder and automatic stopping mechanism, whereby when started the mechanism
will first make a bar for one end of the button hole then simultaneously make the
over edge stitches for the two sides of the button hole and then make a second bar
to finish the button hole, at which time the machine will be stopped, substantially as
described.
7. A button hole stitching machine containing stitch forming mechanism, a work-
holder and a button hole cutting device, said parts when started operating to first
make one bar for one end of the button hole then cut the slit in the work held in the
work clamp, then simultaneously stitch to compléte both sides of the button hole and
thereafter make the second bar, thus completing the button hole, substantially as
described.
8. The use in a sewing machine having a stitch forming mechanism comprehending
two needle-bars each provided with an eye pointed needle, and complementary under
thread carrying devices; of a work holder; means to effect automatically a relative
change of position of said workholder and stitch forming mechanism to enable two
parallel lines of depth and over edge stitches to be made simultaneously along the
line of cut for the button hole, and means to automatically stop the operation of one
of said needle bars and its needle while the other of said bars with its needle con-
tinues in operation to form a bar, substantially as described.
9. The use in a machine for sewing button holes, it having a workholder to receive
the material to be stitched, of stitch formning devices comprehending two needle bars
each provided with an eye pointed needle and 'two complemental under thread carriers,
of means to change the relative positions of said work holder and stitch forming
mechanism to produce simultaneously the production of two parallel rows of depth or
over edge stitches for the edges of a button hole, means to temporarily put out of
operation one of said needle bars and its needle, and meaus to at such time increase
the relative change of position of said work holder and stitch forming mechanism,
whereby with the one needle bar and needle then in operation for stitching a series
of stitches may be made transversely to the length of the button hole but longer for
barring the ends of the hole, substantially as described.
10. The use in a sewing machine having a work holder to hold the material
to be stitched, of two needle bars each provided with an eye pointed needle,
complementary stitch forming devices co-operating with said needles to form stitches,
a cutter carrier, a cutter carried thereby, and connections between the said work
holder and said cutter to cause the cutter to follow the workholder in its longitudinal
movements, substantially as described.
11. The use in a sewing machine, having a workholder to hold the work to be
stitched, of two needle bars each provided with an eye pointed needle, a cutter
located in a slot in said needle bars between the shanks of said needles, a cutter
bar carrier to sustain said cutter, and connections between said work holder and
:

page_text: cutter to cause said cutter to travel through the space between said needles
from one to the other side of said needles with the work holder, to operate,
substantially as described.
Dated the 9th day of November 1808
WM. BROOKES & SON,
55 and 56, Chancery Lane, London, Agents for the Applicant.