Producing the same.
Year: 1887

page_text: Producing the same.
I ARTHUR JOHN BLACK of Stoney Street, Nottingham, in the County of Nottingham,
Hosiery Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as
follows:-
The object of this invention is to produce elastic looped fabrics with a looped pile
formed on the back of the fabric, and extending over a portion thereof, or the whole
of the surface, according to the nature of article to be produced. This class of fabric
has been manufactured for some years past on circular, straight, and warp machines,
but up to this time no attempt, so far as I know, has been made to introduce the pile
surface into fashioned goods.
Now it is the object of my invention to produce fashioned underclothing with
a piled surface, and to this end I take any well known fashioning machine, for
example, the "Paget" machine, and modify it by adapting thereto a second thread
carrier bar, and operating its slide in a peculiar way relatively to the slide of the first
carrier bar. I also employ double, in place of single throated sinkers, to operate
upon the two threads which are laid simultaneously on the needles, and by this means
I indent the threads unequally, so as to form loops of two different sizes, the larger
loop being the pile loop.
Hitherto, in the production of this class of fabric, a special instrument was required
at each selvage to ensure the separation of the pile thread from the ground thread,
but such instrument being a fixture, was inadmissible in a fashioning machine.
I now propose to keep the threads the proper distance apart by giving the ground
thread carrier such a start from the pile thread carrier, as will cause the threads
to run at such an angle to each other that the middle neb of the double throated
einker, in falling, will divide the threads, and cause them to lie in their respective
throats. In this way, the threads will be laid on the needles at a distance apart equal
to the width of the neb which separates the throats. These throats are of different
depths, the one into which the ground thread enters being the deeper of the two.
Гл
077

page_text: By reason of this formation of the sinkers, the two threads are differently indented,
the pile thread being forced down deeper between the needles than the ground thread
in the act of indenting. In all other respects the knitting operation proceeds as
heretofore. Thus, the fashioning of the goods, or the stopping of the pile thread
carrier, to limit its course when patches of pile are to be formed, will be effected by
the well known means common to fashioning and splicing machines.
The traverse of the thread-carriers, so as to ensure the desired angle between the
threads as they are delivered to the needles, I effect in one or other of two ways.
The slide which operates on the sinkers I fit with two pairs of clawkers, which engage
respectively with the slides of the two thread carriers. The notch in the slide of the
pile thread slide I elongate so that the two advancing clawkers, although dropping at
the same time into the notches of their respective thread guides, will be caused to act
the one considerably in rear of the other. Or the notches in the two thread guide
slides may be alike, and the one pair of clawkers may be set to act in advance of the
other pair. By either means the result sought will be attained, that is, the sinker neb
which separates the throats of the sinker will drop between the threads as they are
presented to the row of needles.
The fabrics which I propose to produce with a pile surface, or a partial pile
surface, are Gent's and children's shirts, pants, trousers, drawers, hose, and half hose,
and combinations, also Ladies' and children's vests, drawers, combinations, and hose.
When it is desired to thicken a part, say, for example, on the chest and back
of goods such as Gent's and children's shirts and combinations, Ladies' and children's
vests and combinations, I arrange for the pile to be formed thereon by adjusting the
stop inclines of the pile thread carrier to suit the width of pile surface required.
Dated this 13th day of October 1887.
NEWTON & SON,
Agents for the Applicant.

page_text: Improvements in Elastic Looped Fabrics and in the Means for
Producing the same.
I, ARTHUR JOHN BLACK of Stoney Street, Nottingham in the County of Nottingham,
Hosiery Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in
and by the following statement :-
This invention relates to the manufacture of elastic looped fabrics with a looped
pile on the back of the fabric, and extending over a portion thereof, or the whole of
the surface, according to the nature of the article to be produced. This class of
fabric has been manufactured for some years past on circular, straight, and warp
machines, but up to this time, no attempt, so far as I know, has been made to
introduce the pile surface into fashioned goods, a fixed catch having been required at
the opposite selvages to hold the pile thread apart from the ground thread.-It
is manifest, however, that where the selvage needles are constantly shifted to produce
the shaping of the goods, such fixed catches were inadmissible.
To produce fashioned underclothing with a pile surface, according to my invention,
I take any well-known fashioning machine, for example, the "Paget," provided with
a second thread carrier slide, which is controlled in its movements, like the ordinary
thread carrier slide, by stops worked automatically in any well known manner.
I also employ a peculiar construction of double-throated sinkers to operate upon the
two threads, which are laid simultaneously on the needles, and by this means,
the threads unequally, so as to form loops of two different sizes, the larger loop being
the pile loop.
indent
The threads will, by the peculiar form of the sinker, be laid on the needles
at a distance apart equal to the distance between the two throats.
In the accompanying drawings,
Fig. 1 shews in sectional elevation the principal parts of a Paget fashioning knitting
machine, modified to suit the purpose of this invention.
Fig. 2 is a front elevation, shewing the front thread carrier bar and slide, with
thread carrier attached thereto, illustrating the manner of driving and stopping the
same.
Fig. 3 is a diagram shewing, in plan view, 7 needles and 8 sinkers, and the relative
position occupied by the threads of the two carriers, previous to, and during the
traverse of the carriers.
Fig. 4. shews, detached, the form of the vertical sinker designed for use in the
Paget machine, the same being drawn to an enlarged scale.
A, Fig. 1, is a portion of the main framing of the machine, B the traversing slide
which carries the driving catches 6 b, and to which is also fitted the incline b for
depressing the sinkers. These sinkers are arranged vertically as shewn at C, and

page_text: they are supported in grooves formed in the back of the fixed rail A¹, and in the
front of the presser bar D.-E E are the needles arranged horizontally, and carried
by the needle bar E¹.
A' is a fixed bar which forms a race for the ordinary thread carrier slide F, and on
the face of the bar A¹ is formed a race for a slide carrying the additional_thread
layer G, which thread layer is required for the production of a pile surface.-H is the
knocking-over bar carrying the knocking-over bits A, between which the needles E
slide to perform the knitting action.
This sinker, it will be seen, has two throats c c', of different depths, the point of
entrance to both of which is in the same vertical plane. The deeper throat c is
intended to receive the ground thread, and the shallower throat c', the pile thread.
The dip of the thread carriers F and G is so arranged with respect to the sinkers,
that the thread carrier F will lay its thread under the point of entrance to the deeper
throat c, as shewn in Fig. 1, while the thread carrier G will lay its pile thread
immediately below the point of entrance to the shallower throat c¹.
In rear of the point of entrance to the throat c, the neb dividing the two throats is
inclined upwards. This provides for the taking of the ground thread from its carrier
with certainty, even though the thread carrier is advanced only one needle beyond the
selvage sinker. A good selvage is thus ensured for the fashioned work, and by the
use of this sinker, in combination with a pile thread carrier suitably controlled in
the length of its traverse, the limits of the pile surface may be varied at the pleasure
of the workman.
As the sinkers, charged with the ground and pile threads, are depressed, they will
bring down those threads upon the needles, and, continuing their descent, they will
first force down the pile thread to form loops between the needles, and then, in
completing their descent, act upon the ground thread in the ordinary manner,
extending, at the same time, the length of the loops of the pile thread. This double
action of the sinkers will be clearly understood by reference to the Diagram Fig. 5,
which represents the sinker in its lowest position between the needles.
The needles are now drawn back during the rising of the sinkers, the loops being
thereby moved towards the heads of the needles. The movement of the needles brings
their beards under the action of the presser D, as shewn in Diagram Fig. 6, and the
further back movement of the needles will bring the knitted work over the beards,
and cause the new loops to be knitted into the work by the subsequent action of the
knocking over bits h, as illustrated at Diagram Fig. 7.-The vertical movements of
the sinkers is effected as usual, that is to say, they are forced down by the incline b¹,
on the slide B, to their lowest position (see Fig. 5), and raised to their highest
position by the lifting bar I, to clear the work on the needles, and depressed to the
position of Fig. 1, ready to receive the threads by means of the bar K.
From the foregoing description it will be understood that, by reason of this new
formation of the sinkers, the two threads will, by the descent of the sinkers, be
relegated to their respective positions on the needles, and will be differently indented,
the pile thread being forced down deeper between the needles than the ground thread
in the act of indenting. In all other respects, the knitting operation proceeds as
heretofore. Thus, the fashioning of the goods, or the stopping of the pile thread
carrier, to limit its course, when patches of pile are to be formed, will be effected by
the well known means common to fashioning and splicing machines.
The fabrics which I propose to produce with a pile surface, or a partial pile surface,
are Gent's and children's shirts, pants, trousers, drawers, hose, and half hose, and
combinations of shirt and pants known as "combinations"; also Ladies' and children's
vests, drawers, combinations, and hose.
When it is desired to thicken a part, say, for example, on the chest and back of
goods, such as Gent's and children's shirts and combinations, Ladies' and children's
vests and combinations, I arrange for the pile to be formed thereon by adjusting the
stop inclines of the pile thread carrier to suit the width of pile surface required.
In adapting my invention to what is known as the Cotton machine, which is
provided with horizontal indenting and dividing sinkers, 1-form the sinkers as shewn

page_text: at Figs. 8, C being the indenting or jack sinker, and C* the dividing sinker.-In
other respects, the mechanism will remain unaltered, except that the incline on the
travelling slide will be required to give a longer movement than usual to the sinkers.
The means for securing this extended movement is shewn in the sectional elevation
Fig. 9, which represents the principal parts of the well known Cotton machine.
It will be obvious that the position of the deep and shallow throats in the illustrated
sinkers may be reversed, as shewn in Fig. 10, where the front and higher throat will
take the thread for the ground work, while the lower and rear throat will take the
thread for the pile.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said Inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
The adaptation to fashioning knitting machines, of sinkers constructed as described,
whereby they will take, simultaneously, from two thread carriers travelling in the
same vertical plane, two threads; separate them so as to ensure their proper delivery
onto the needles, and indent the same on the needles at different depths, so as to
produce a pile surface at any desired part of the fashioned knitted goods."
Dated this 19th day of July 1888
NEWTON & SON,
Agents for the Applicant.

page_text: Date of Application, 13th Oct., 1887
Complete Specification Left, 13th July, 1888
Complete Specification Accepted, 17th Aug., 1888
Producing the same.
I ARTHUR JOHN BLACK of Stoney Street, Nottingham, in the County of Nottingham,
Hosiery Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as
follows:-
The object of this invention is to produce elastic looped fabrics with a looped pile
formed on the back of the fabric, and extending over a portion thereof, or the whole
of the surface, according to the nature of article to be produced. This class of fabric
has been manufactured for some years past on circular, straight, and warp machines,
but up to this time no attempt, so far as I know, has been made to introduce the pile
surface into fashioned goods.
Now it is the object of my invention to produce fashioned underclothing with
a piled surface, and to this end I take any well known fashioning machine, for
example, the "Paget" machine, and modify it by adapting thereto a second thread
carrier bar, and operating its slide in a peculiar way relatively to the slide of the first
carrier bar. I also employ double, in place of single throated sinkers, to operate
upon the two threads which are laid simultaneously on the needles, and by this means
I indent the threads unequally, so as to form loops of two different sizes, the larger
loop being the pile loop.
Hitherto, in the production of this class of fabric, a special instrument was required
at each selvage to ensure the separation of the pile thread from the ground thread,
but such instrument being a fixture, was inadmissible in a fashioning machine.
I now propose to keep the threads the proper distance apart by giving the ground
thread carrier such a start from the pile thread carrier, as will cause the threads
to run at such an angle to each other that the middle neb of the double throated
sinker, in falling, will divide the threads, and cause them to lie in their respective
throats. In this way, the threads will be laid on the needles at a distance apart equal
to the width of the neb which separates the throats. These throats are of different
depths, the one into which the ground thread enters being the deeper of the two.

page_text: By reason of this formation of the sinkers, the two threads are differently indented,
the pile thread being forced down deeper between the needles than the ground thread
in the act of indenting. In all other respects the knitting operation proceeds as
heretofore. Thus, the fashioning of the goods, or the stopping of the pile thread
carrier, to limit its course when patches of pile are to be formed, will be effected by
the well known means common to fashioning and splicing machines.
The traverse of the thread-carriers, so as to ensure the desired angle between the
threads as they are delivered to the needles, I effect in one or other of two ways.
The slide which operates on the sinkers I fit with two pairs of clawkers, which engage
respectively with the slides of the two thread carriers. The notch in the slide of the
pile thread slide I elongate so that the two advancing clawkers, although dropping at
the same time into the notches of their respective thread guides, will be caused to act
the one considerably in rear of the other. Or the notches in the two thread guide
slides may be alike, and the one pair of clawkers may be set to act in advance of the
other pair. By either means the result sought will be attained, that is, the sinker neb
which separates the throats of the sinker will drop between the threads as they are
presented to the row of needles.
The fabrics which I propose to produce with a pile surface, or a partial pile
surface, are Gent's and children's shirts, pants, trousers, drawers, hose, and half hose,
and combinations, also Ladies' and children's vests, drawers, combinations, and hose.
When it is desired to thicken a part, say, for example, on the chest and back
of goods such as Gent's and children's shirts and combinations, Ladies' and children's
vests and combinations, I arrange for the pile to be formed thereon by adjusting the
stop inclines of the pile thread carrier to suit the width of pile surfaco required.
Dated this 13th day of October 1887.

page_text: Improvements in Elastic Looped Fabrics and in the Means for
Producing the same.
I, ARTHUR JOHN BLACK of Stoney Street, Nottingham in the County of Nottingham,
Hosiery Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the saine is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in
and by the following statement :-
This invention relates to the manufacture of elastic looped fabrics with a looped
pile on the back of the fabric, and extending over a portion thereof, or the whole of
the surface, according to the nature of the article to be produced. This class of
fabric has been manufactured for some years past on circular, straight, and warp
machines, but up to this time, no attempt, so far as I know, has been made to
introduce the pile surface into fashioned goods, a fixed catch having been required at
the opposite selvages to hold the pile thread apart from the ground thread.-It
is manifest, however, that where the selvage needles are constantly shifted to produce
the shaping of the goods, such fixed catches were inadmissible.
To produce fashioned underclothing with a pile surface, according to my invention,
I take any well-known fashioning machine, for example, the "Paget," provided with
a second thread carrier slide, which is controlled in its movements, like the ordinary
thread carrier slide, by stops worked automatically in any well known manner.
I also employ a peculiar construction of double-throated sinkers to operate upon the
indent
two threads, which are laid simultaneously on the needles, and by this means,
the threads unequally, so as to form loops of two different sizes, the larger loop being
the pile loop.
The threads will, by the peculiar form of the sinker, be laid on the needles
at a distance apart equal to the distance between the two throats.
In the accompanying drawings,
Fig. 1 shews in sectional elevation the principal parts of a Paget fashioning knitting
machine, modified to suit the purpose of this invention.
Fig. 2 is a front elevation, shewing the front thread carrier bar and slide, with
thread carrier attached thereto, illustrating the manner of driving and stopping the
same.
Fig. 3 is a diagram shewing, in plan view, 7 needles and 8 sinkers, and the relative
position occupied by the threads of the two carriers, previous to, and during the
traverse of the carriers.
Fig. 4. shews, detached, the form of the vertical sinker designed for use in the
Paget machine, the same being drawn to an enlarged scale.
A, Fig. 1, is a portion of the inain framing of the machine, B the traversing slide
which carries the driving catches bb, and to which is also fitted the incline b for
depressing the sinkers. These sinkers are arranged vertically as shewn at C, and :

page_text: they are supported in grooves formed in the back of the fixed rail A', and in the
front of the presser bar D.-E E are the needles arranged horizontally, and carried
by the needle bar E'.
A is a fixed bar which forms a race for the ordinary thread carrier slide F, and on
the face of the bar A¹ is formed a race for a slide carrying the additional_thread :
layer G, which thread layer is required for the production of a pile surface.-H is the
knocking-over bar carrying the knocking-over bits h, between which the needles E
slide to perform the knitting action.
This sinker, it will be seen, has two throats c c¹, of different depths, the point of
entrance to both of which is in the same vertical plane. The deeper throat c is
intended to receive the ground thread, and the shallower throat c', the pile thread.
The dip of the thread carriers F and G is so arranged with respect to the sinkers,
that the thread carrier F will lay its thread under the point of entrance to the deeper
throat c, as shewn in Fig. 1; while the thread carrier G will lay its pile thread
immediately below the point of entrance to the shallower throat c¹.
In rear of the point of entrance to the throat c, the neb dividing the two throats is
inclined upwards. This provides for the taking of the ground thread from its carrier
with certainty, even though the thread carrier is advanced only one needle beyond the
selvage sinker. A good selvage is thus ensured for the fashioned work, and by the
use of this sinker, in combination with a pile thread carrier suitably controlled in
the length of its traverse, the limits of the pile surface may be varied at the pleasure
of the workman.
As the sinkers, charged with the ground and pile threads, are depressed, they will
bring down those threads upon the needles, and, continuing their descent, they will
first force down the pile thread to form loops between the needles, and then, in
completing their descent, act upon the ground thread in the ordinary manner,
extending, at the same time, the length of the loops of the pile thread. This double
action of the sinkers will be clearly understood by reference to the Diagram Fig. 5,
which represents the sinker in its lowest position between the needles.
The needles are now drawn back during the rising of the sinkers, the loops being
thereby moved towards the heads of the needles. The movement of the needles brings
their beards under the action of the presser D, as shewn in Diagram Fig. 6, and the
further back movement of the needles will bring the knitted work over the beards,
and cause the new loops to be knitted into the work by the subsequent action of the
knocking over bits h, as illustrated at Diagram Fig. 7.-The vertical movements of
the sinkers is effected as usual, that is to say, they are forced down by the incline 6,
on the slide B, to their lowest position (see Fig. 5), and raised to their highest
position by the lifting bar I, to clear the work on the needles, and depressed to the
position of Fig. 1, ready to receive the threads by means of the bar K.
From the foregoing description it will be understood that, by reason of this new
formation of the sinkers, the two threads will, by the descent of the sinkers, be
relegated to their respective positions on the needles, and will be differently indented,
the pile thread being forced down deeper between the needles than the ground thread
in the act of indenting. In all other respects, the knitting operation proceeds as
heretofore. Thus, the fashioning of the goods, or the stopping of the pile thread
carrier, to limit its course, when patches of pile are to be formed, will be effected by
the well known means common to fashioning and splicing machines.
The fabrics which I propose to produce with a pile surface, or a partial pile surface,
are Gent's and children's shirts, pants, trousers, drawers, hose, and half hose, and
combinations of shirt and pants known as "combinations"; also Ladies' and children's
vests, drawers, combinations, and hose.
When it is desired to thicken a part, say, for example, on the chest and back of
goods, such as Gent's and children's shirts and combinations, Ladies' and children's
vests and combinations, I arrange for the pile to be formed thereon by adjusting the
stop inclines of the pile thread carrier to suit the width of pile surface required.
In adapting my invention to what is known as the Cotton machine, which is
provided with horizontal indenting and dividing sinkers, I form the sinkers as shewn

page_text: at Figs. 8, being the indenting or jack sinker, and C the dividing sinker.-In
other respects, the mechanism will remain unaltered, except that the incline on the
travelling slide will be required to give a longer movement than usual to the sinkers.
The means for securing this extended movement is shewn in the sectional elevation
Fig. 9, which represents the principal parts of the well known Cotton machine.
It will be obvious that the position of the deep and shallow throats in the illustrated
sinkers may be reversed, as shewn in Fig. 10, where the front and higher throat will
take the thread for the ground work, while the lower and rear throat will take the
thread for the pile.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said Inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
The adaptation to fashioning knitting machines, of sinkers constructed as described,
whereby they will take, simultaneously, from two thread carriers travelling in the
same vertical plane, two threads; separate them so as to ensure their proper delivery
onto the needles, and indent the same on the needles at different depths, so as to
produce a pile surface at any desired part of the fashioned knitted goods.
NEWTON & SON,
Agents for the Applicant.