Improvements in Apparatus for Sewing Leather and other Materials.
Year: 1895

page_text: Date of Application, 19th Oct., 1895-Accepted, 11th Jan., 1898
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Apparatus for Sewing Leather and other
Materials.
I, GEORGE HUGнкs, Patent Agent, of 28 Coleman Street, in the County of
London, (communication from Hermann Strauscheidt, Leather Merchant, in
Biokorn, near Wanne, in Westphalia), do hereby declare the nature of this invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and,
ascertained in and by the following statement :-
My invention relates to a sewing apparatus with handles operated by hand or
treadlo and especially adapted for the manufacturing of boots and shoes, and
applicable for sewing the inner as well as the outer sole on to the welt, with
greater accuracy and speed than when done by hand.
The accompanying drawings show in
Fig. 1 a longitudinal section through the sewing mechanism,
Fig. 2 shows the movement of the thread,
Figs. 3 to 5 show the cylinder with various cross sections of the spool.
Fig. 6 shows a ground plan of the shuttle in the lower receptacle.
Figs. 7 and 8 are details of the transporting arrangement.
The whole appliance is in the shapo of pincers and consists of two shanks N
and N crossing at a, and having on the opposite side of a, two boxes or
receptacles Dand E. D being the upper one to which the needle Á is conveniently
fixed in the tube C. In D are also contained the "transporter" and the thread.
receiver. The other box E carries in front the shuttle bearings, and at the back,
the corresponding bearing for the transporter F. A spiral spring H between the
two shanks N and N' returns them automatically to their original positions..
Simultaneously with pressing the shanks, the spool and the shuttle are operated
the former by the rack T, and the latter by the rack which is flexibly fastened to
shauk N. In Fig. 1 the shuttle is not shown, there being nothing essentially now
about it, but Fig. 6 shows a plan of it. At each compression of the shanks (that
is at each stitch of the needle A) three movements are simultaneously made besides
the movement of the needle. The cog-wheel o is turned by the rack T and to o is
firmly attached an axle, upon which revolves the spool w. The bottom E¹ of
the spool box 6 is either fixed (see Figs. 3 and 4) or loose (see Fig. 5). In the
former case a second disa E is bolted to E. This diso E is provided with
indentations y fitting over the projections of the cylinder, in such a manner
that the spool box bottom E' and the disc can be fixed behind the indentations y¹
and the projections y³. Spring in on the fixed bottom n of the spool box can bo
adjusted by a screw v, in order to regulate the tension in the spool box. If E' is.
loose (see Fig. 5) it turns in cylinder b together with cog-wheel o, spool w and
axle. By movement of the shanks N N' a right or left movement of cog-wheel o
takes place. When it turns to the right, and also on the needle making the
downward stroke, the thread is liberated in the forward direction, and when it.
turns to tho left, the thread is drawn tightly and the tension caused by spring m.
and adjusting screw is utilized to make the stitch. Simultaneously with this
movement a right or left movement of the cog-wheel J is caused by the rack 8
and the shuttle (Fig. 6) makes a corresponding movement. By this action the
loop is formed, and tied on the upward stroke of the needle. The third movement
during the motion of the shanks, is that of the transporter F. This latter is on the
receptacle E and has on one side the surface y. On the shank D going down a.

page_text: screw P pushes against the surface y and causes the transporter F to make a side
movement corresponding to the elevation of the slanting projection g. The
transporter F itself is influenced by a spring M encircling the tube which again
is fitted on a bent peg e. The spiral spring M between D and F causes the
transporter to return into its original position.
The modus operandi of the apparatus is as follows:-Part is inserted from
underneath in the groove cut in the top sole, whereupon the sewing can be
commenced. By pressure on the shanks N N' the needlo A is pushed through.
During this movement the transporter F catches with its toothed end the leather
from the top, and influenced by the movement of the adjusting screw P on the
slanting surfaco y, pushes the apparatus to the side the space of one stitch.
Previous to this movement, the needla A has penetrated the leather, the thread
leader has freed the thread towards the front, and the shuttle has made a move in
the same (front) direction. These movements are effected by the racks T and S.
On relieving the pressure on the shanks N and N', the spring Hoperates, and returns
them automatically to their original position. By this movement the shuttle is
also returned to its former position, passes a loop formed by the needle and forms
the stitch. Thereupon the thread leader again catches the liberated thread, the
thread that has beon used to make the stitch, being kept tight by the tightener m
and . The transporter then assumes its original position a fow millimetres
above the leather, and the apparatus is ready for a new stitch.
On the drawings the apparatus is shown for hand use ouly, but as indicated by
the dotted lines in Fig. 1, the apparatus can be operated by treadle or other motive
power.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is :-
The combination of parts operating substantially as described in the above
Specification, and exemplified in the accompanying drawings and together forming
my improved apparatus for sewing leather and other material.
•
* Dated this 19th day of October 1895.
HUGHES & YOUNG,
23 Coleman Street, London, E.C., Agents for the Applicant.