Improvements in Trimmings for the Edges of Fabrics and in the Method of and Apparatus for Making such Trimmings.
Year: 1890

page_text: Date of Application, 27th Dec., 1890-Accepted, 14th Mar., 1891
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Trimmings for the Edges of Fabrics and in the
Method of and Apparatus for Making such Trimmings.
I, DAVID COX BELLIS, a citizen of the United States, residing at 2557, Reese
Street, in the City of Philadelphia, in the County of Philadelphia and State of
Pennsylvania, Machinist, do hereby declare the nature of my invention for
IMPROVEMENTS IN THE METHOD OF MAKING TRIMMINGS FOR THE EDGES
OF FABRICS, and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statements :-
My invention relates to the method of making trimmings for the edges of fabrics
and of apparatus or appliances for the conduct thereof, in a class known as
over-edge stitching machines, yet nevertheless susceptible of being practiced in
other types of machines.
The principal objects of my invention are, first, to provide an economical and
expeditious method of making trimmings or borders for the edges of fabrics in
which a row of stitches is formed on the fabric close to or over the edge thereof and
with a continuous cord or tape confined or secured by certain of said stitches and
looped beyond the edge of the fabric so as to form parallel contiguous bars or
pillars extending from the row of stitches and with one or more cords twisted
alternately in opposite directions around said bars or pillars and across the loops
thereof or with one or more tapes, cords or ribbons disposed over and under the
respective bars or pillars, or with one or more cords twisted alternately in opposite
directions around said bars, or pillars and across said loops and with ribbons, cords
or tapes alternately disposed over and under said bars or pillars between or adjacent
to the cords twisted together around said bars or pillars and extending across said
loops; and second, to provide a machine with compact and efficient mechanism or
with attachments applied thereto, whereby it is rendered available for efficiently
carrying out the method of producing trimmings or borders for the edges of fabrics,
of the general character hereinabove mentioned.
My invention consists firstly of the method of making a trimming for the edges
of fabrics by continuously forming a row of stitches on a fabric close to or over the
edge thereof and attaching and looping one or more cords or tapes by certain of
said stitches so as to form bars or pillars which are attached to said fabric and
twisting two or more cords or tapes together alternately in opposite directions
around said bars or pillars and across said loops.
My invention consists secondly of the method of making a trimming for the edges
of fabrics by looping and attaching a continuous cord to the edge of the fabric and
simultaneously twisting two or more cords together across said loops.
My invention consists thirdly of the method of making a trimming for the edges
of fabrics by looping or attaching continuously along and to the edge of the fabric
one or more cords and twisting two or more cords or tapes together alternately in
opposite directions across said-loops-and braiding or weaving tapes, cords or ribbons
over and under the respective loops and adjacent to the one or more cords or tapes
twisted together and disposed across said loops.
My invention consists fourthly of the method of making a trimming for the edges
of fabrics by forming a row of stitches along or over the edge of the fabric and
looping and attaching to the edge cords or tapes by certain of said stitches to form
parallel bars or pillars and braiding or weaving one or more tapes, cords or ribbons
either in regular succession over and under or alternately over and under the bars
or pillars and across said loops; and
My invention consists fifthly of a trimming for the edges of a fabric possessing
the characteristic features hereinafter described.

page_text: The nature and characteristic features of my invention will be more fully
understood from the following description taken in connection with the accompanying
drawings, forming part hereof; and in which
Figure 1, is an elevation of a sewing machine provided with attachments
embodying particular features rendering the same susceptible of being used for the
conduct of the method for the production of a trimming for the edges of a fabric
such as hereinafter more fully described.
Fig. 2 is a top or plan view of the machine with the needle bar and upper
portions of the machine removed and also showing the cam cylinder and the
mechanism for actuating the principal parts of or attachments to the machine.
Fig. 3, is an end elevation thereof, showing the cloth table in section and with
the rear portion of the machine removed and showing also the braiding mechanism
of the machine.
Fig. 4, is a vertical transverse section of the rear portion of machine taken on
the lines, "',
of Fig. 2 and with the twisting mechanism shown in application
thereto.
Fig. 5, is an elevation of the cloth-table showing a portion of the twisting and
braiding mechanism applied thereto and a modified construction of the mechanism
for actuating the ribbon or tape guides.
Fig. 6, is a perspective view of a portion of the looping attachment and showing
the finger or bodkin and the spring actuated latch for looping the cords.
Fig. 7, is a perspective view of a portion of the braiding attachment showing
two sets of cord or tape guides for braiding more than two tapes and also showing
a portion of the mechanism for actuating the same.
Fig. 7 is a perspective view showing the relative positions of the ribbon or tape
guides with reference to the loops and to the edge of the fabric, during the
operation of the machine.
Fig. 8, is a perspective view of an attachment and its actuating mechanism for
forming two rows of superposed loops and showing the relative positions of the
two fingers or bodkins and of the two spring latches and the cam cylinder for
actuating the same,
Fig. 9, is a perspective view of the mechanism for twisting three rows each
consisting of two cords together alternately in opposite directions around the bars
or pillars and also showing the relative position of the details or parts with
reference to the edge of the fabric.
Fig. 10,-is-a-diagram-illustrating-the particular features of a border or edging
made in accordance with my invention, and having a row of stitches formed on the
fabric over the edge thereof and a continuous cord confined by certain of said
stitches and looped beyond the latter so as to form parallel continuous bars or pillars
extending outward from the row of stitches and two cords twisted together
alternately in opposite directions around and between said bars or pillars.
Fig. 11, is a diagram of a similar border having in addition to the row of
twisted cords, a braid or ribbon laid parallel with and contiguous to the edge of the
fabric and lying alternately under and over the bars or pillars.
Fig. 12, is a diagram of a similar border having two braids, tapes or ribbons
disposed over and under the pillars or bars of the trimming and in proximity to the
row of twisted cords surrounding said bars or pillars and extending across the loops
formed by said bars or pillars...
Fig. 13, is a diagram of a similar border having rows of braid or ribbon disposed
alternately between the rows of twisted cords.
Fig. 14, is a diagram of a similar border with the twisted cords omitted and in
which six parallel rows of braid, cord or ribbon are woven or laid alternately above
and below the pillars or bars.
Fig. 15, is a diagram of a similar border having two rows of superposed loops
and five parallel strips of tape or ribbon of varying width disposed alternately over
and under the said loops.
Fig. 16, is a diagram of a similar border, having two superposed rows of loops

page_text: and two strips of braid or ribbon and one row of twisted cord arranged over and
under said loops.
Fig. 17, is a diagram of a similar border, having two superposed rows of loops
and showing three parallel rows of braid alternated with rows of twisted cord; and
Fig. 18, is a diagram of a similar border, having two superposed rows of loops
and showing three parallel rows of braid alternated with rows of twisted cords.
My invention may be advantageously applied to various types of sewing machines,
but preference is given to those especially adapted for the formation of over-edge
stitches, for the following reasons; first, because a crochet or over-edge binding is
produced upon the cut or raw edge of the fabric; second, because the pillars or bars
may be drawn completely out to the edge of the fabric; and third, because the
finished border or edging presents substantially the same appearance when viewed
from either side of the fabric.
a,
In order to fully illustrate and explain the nature and characteristic features of
my invention, a brief description thereof in application to a well known type of a
sewing machine will be given, but before proceeding with this description
the elements of the sewing machine which operate in conjunction with the
attachments for the conduct of my invention will be pointed out by reference to the.
accompanying drawings, in which A is the frame or housing of the sewing
machine.
is the cloth plate or table. for supporting the fabric. A', is a
centrally located horizontal shaft supported in suitable bearings formed in the
frame A, and having a pulley A2, and a spur-wheel or pinion A³, keyed thereto.
B, is a stationary horizontal stud or countershaft secured to or formed intégral
with the upper portion of the frame A. The cam faced spur-wheel B', meshing
with the pinion A³, is mounted loosely upon this stud or shaft B. When the
machine is in operation, the shaft A', is rotated by means of a positively driven
belt or band passing over the pulley A, and the rotation of this shaft not only
actuates the feeding and stitch-forming mechanism, but also imparts motion to
the cam-faced wheel B. The rotations of the cam-wheel B', actuate the bell-
crank levers B2, for causing the needle-bar to oscillate backwards and forwards,
and thereby form an over-edge stitch.
Having briefly pointed out the principal elements of a well known type of sewing
machine operating in conjunction with certain attachments, a description of such
attachments will now be given.
C, Figs. 1, 2, 3 and 4, is a vertical frame secured to or formed integral with the
frame or housing A. This frame C is provided with two similarly disposed hori-
zontal arms C, as hereinafter more fully described and with a vertical lug C²
The horizontal arms C, are provided near the centre thereof with journals, and at
or near their extremities with apertures adapted for the reception of two parallel
horizontal rods or guides C³. The cam-cylinder or drum D, mounted on the
spindle d, is adapted to revolve in the bearings formed in the arms. C', of the
bracket C. e, is a spur-wheel or pinion either formed integral with the cam-
wheel B', or made separate in the usual manner and keyed or otherwise secured
thereto, e, is a spur-wheel meshing with the pinion e, and keyed to the rear
extremity of the spindle d, for imparting a rotary motion to the cam-cylinder D,
when the machine is in operation.
The velocity of rotation-of the cam-cylinder D, with reference to the shaft A',
materially effects the character of the work done by the machine, as is hereinafter
more fully explained, and the velocity of rotation of the cam-cylinder D, with
reference to the shaft A', may be readily increased or diminished by substituting
larger or smaller wheels for the wheels e and e'. 2 (Figs. 1, 2, 3 and 6) is a
cross-head adapted to slide at right angles to the edge of the fabric upon the
parallel rods or guides C³. ", is a roller pivotally mounted upon a stud secured to
formed upon
the cross-head, and adapted to travel in the closed cam d',
the
surface of the cam-cylinder D, towards the forward end thereof. et is a horizontal
finger or bodkin located parallel with and near to the upper surface of the cloth
plate or table and secured to the cross-head e², by means of the downwardly

page_text: curved arm. This arm e, is provided with a lug e, for actuating the spring
latch. The bodkin or finger e, is provided near its extremity with an eye e', for
the reception of the cord or tape which forms the loops of the finished border or
edging. is a bracket secured to the cloth plate or table a, and adapted for the
reception of the latch. This latch, is provided with a hook-shaped extremity
and with a lug f³, adapted to contact with the lug e. is a spring secured to the
bracket, and adapted to maintain the latch, in a normally closed position.
When the cam-cylinder D, is revolved the roller e³, traverses the closed cam d',
and causes the cross-head e², and with it the bodkin or finger e, to reciprocate back-
wards and forwards. The closed cam is so proportioned as that the bodkin or
finger e, travels backwards until the lug, contacting with the lug 3, opens or
raises the latch f, and maintains it for a short time in an open position; and then
the bodkin or finger travelling forward to the left of the needle permits the spring f*,
to close or depress the latch f.
2
!! is a link pivotally connected at one end thereof to the vertical lug C², and
provided at or near its central portion with a lozenge-shaped traveller g', pivotally
secured thereto. This traveller o is adapted to traverse the closed cam d², formed
upon the surface of the cam-cylinder D, towards the rear portion thereof. g² is a
rock-shaft located transversely of the machine and pivotally supported in bearings
secured to the frame A, and provided with two similar arms and g², secured to
the respective extremities thereof. is a link pivotally secured at the respective
extremities thereof to the arm g³, and to the link g. g is a horizontal rack located
beneath the cloth-plate or table a, and adapted to be" reciprocated in suitable bear-
ings secured thereto. ', is a link pivotally secured at the respective ends thereof
to the rack g, and to the arm g, and provided with a turn buckle ³, for adjusting
the position of the rack g in relation to the position of the arm g. When the cam-
cylinder D, is rotated the traveller a', traversing the closed cam d², causes the link
to oscillate backwards and forwards through a part of the arc of a circle. The
closed cam d², is so proportioned as that the link g, pauses during a brief interval of
time at the respective ends of its swing. The motion of this link !!; is transmitted
by means of the link g', rock-shaft 92 and link g, to the rack g³, and causes the
latter to reciprocate alternately towards the right and left and also to pause at the
end of each stroke.
The cloth plate or table a, is cut away in the rear of the needle (Figs. 1 and 4,)
for the reception of the hollow tube or cylinder h. This tube or cylinder h, is
adapted to revolve in suitable bearings secured to the cloth plate or table a, and is
provided at or near the centre thereof with a spur-wheel ', meshing with the
rack 9.2 (Fig. 9) are jaws extending towards the needle and provided with
eyes 3, for the reception of the cords and . When the rack, is reciprocated
backwards and forwards as is above set forth the tube h and jaws 2, revolve first
towards the right, and then pause and finally revolve towards the left and so in
regular succession the above operation thereof, is repeated.
Referring to the drawings and especially to Figs. 2, 3, 5, 7 and 7 thereof, and A
are vertical posts having vertical slots and formed therein and these posts are
susceptible of being raised and lowered in bearings secured to the cloth plate or
table a. These posts i and i, are held normally in a depressed position by means of
springs, either wound spirally around the posts as shown in Fig. 3 or formed in
the manner as shown in Fig. 5. and, are ribbon or tape guides secured to the
posts and i, respectively and extending towards the needle. is a lug depending
downwards from the ribbon guide, and extending through and beneath the cloth
plate or table a, for guiding the edge of the work. 8 and (Figs. 2, 5 and 7,) are
wedge-shaped cams screwed or otherwise secured to the rack yo, and engaging in
the slots and 3, of the posts and . These cams and, are so proportioned as
that during the operation of the machine the posts i and i, are alternately raised
and lowered and permitted to pause during a brief interval of time at the termi
nation of each stroke. In Fig. 7, the posts i and i¹, and the ribbon guides and
consisting of a series of tubes or channels are preferably made in one piece.

page_text: The method of forming a border or trimming embodying the features of my
invention in a machine of the character hereinabove described and especially
adapted for the carrying out of the same, is as follows.
The sewing machine is driven in the usual or in any preferred manner and the
fabric is continuously fed into the machine care being exercised to maintain the edge
of the fabric in contact with the lug 7, in order to ensure the formation of the line
of over-edge stitches, as illustrated in Figs. 10 to 18 inclusive, along the edge of
the fabric. While the stitch-forming mechanism forms a certain number of over-
edge stitches, along the edge of the fabric, the finger or bodkin e, carrying the
cord, moving forward presents the cord k¹, beneath one of the over-edge
stitches. The finger or bodkin e, then travelling backwards raises the latch,
and carries the cord, beneath the same. During the formation of the next series.
of stitches the bodkin or finger et, moving forward permits the latch, to close and
leaving the cord, caught up by the hook of the latch (Fig. 6,) and again
presents the cord ki, beneath another one of the over-edge stitches, thus com-
pleting the loop ³. By the repetition of this process the raw or cut edge of the
fabric is bound or confined with a continuous row of over-edge stitches k, and the
cord, is simultaneously secured to the edge of the fabric by certain of these.
stitches, designated by the letter, in the accompanying drawings. It may be
remarked that instead of securing the cord ¹, by every fourth stitch, it may
be secured by every second, third or other preferred number of stitches. This
result may be readily accomplished by removing the spur-wheels e and e', and
replacing them with similar spur-wheels having a different ratio of diameters..
Although the cord ', is represented in the drawings as secured to the upper surface
of the fabric near the edge thereof, still the cord may be drawn from the surface of
the fabric to the edge by increasing the tension exerted upon the loop ³. It is.
obvious that two superposed rows of loops 3 and 4, (Figs. 8 and 15 to 18.
inclusive,) instead of one row of loops may be readily formed by employing two
bodkins or fingers and two latches as illustrated in Fig. 8, and permitting the same.
to operate alternately. While the raw or cut edge of the fabric is being confined
by the over-edge stitches and while the loops ³, are being formed, the ascending
and descending guides and (Fig. 7ª,) braid or lay the cords, tapes or ribbons k³,
alternately under and over the pillars or bars, of the loops. Of course the
number of cords, ribbons or tapes employed may be increased or diminished as may
be preferred or required.
During the formation of the loops k³, the cylinders or tubes, are revolved
intermittently in alternate directions and the jaws 2 (Fig. 9) thereof, twist the
cords and around the bars or pillars, and across the loops ³ alternately in
opposite directions.
It will be obvious to those skilled in the art to which my invention appertains
that parts thereof may be employed separately, for example, the loop-forming
mechanism illustrated in Fig. 6, may be used alone or in connection with the
twisting mechanism illustrated in Fig. 9, or with the braid or ribbon laying
mechanism illustrated in Figs. 7 and 7, or with both. It will be also evident that
modifications may be made in the details and construction of the parts to adapt
them to the different types of sewing machines, without departing from the spirit.
of my invention.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature and objects of
my invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that
what I claim is :-
1. The herein described method of making trimmings for the edges of fabrics,
which consists in forming a row of stitches on a fabric over the edge thereof and
looping and attaching one or more cords to said fabric by certain of said
stitches to form pillars or bars and twisting two or more cords together alternately
in opposite directions around said pillars or bars and across said loops, substantially
as and for the purposes set forth.

page_text: 2. The herein described method of making trimmings for the edges of fabrics,
which consists in forming a row of stitches on a fabric close to the edge thereof
and looping and attaching one or more cords to said fabric by certain of said stitches
and twisting two or more cords together and across said loops, substantially as and
for the purposes set forth.
3. The herein described method of making trimmings for the edges of fabrics,
which consists in forming a row of stitches on a fabric over the edge thereof and
attaching and looping a cord by certain of said stitches to the edge of said fabric
and to form parallel bars or pillars and braiding or weaving one or more tapes or
ribbons under and over said bars or pillars and across said loops, substantially as
and for the purposes set forth.
4. The herein described method of making trimmings for the edges of fabrics,
which consists in forming a row of stitches along the edge of the fabric and
attaching and looping a cord by certain of said stitches to said edge to form
parallel bars or pillars and simultaneously with the twisting of two or more cords
together around said pillars or bars and across said loops, braiding or weaving one
or more tapes, ribbons or cords alternately over and under said bars or pillars,
substantially as and for the purposes set forth.
5. The herein described method of making trimmings for the edges of fabrics,
which consists in looping and attaching a continuous cord along the edge of the
fabric and simultaneously twisting two or more cords together across said loops,
substantially as and for the purposes set forth.
6. The herein described method of making a trimming for the edges of a fabric,
which consists in looping and attaching a continuous cord thereto and twisting
two or more cords together alternately in opposite directions across said loops
and braiding or weaving one or more tapes, ribbons or cords under and over said
loops, substantially as and for the purposes set forth.
7. The trimming for the edges of fabrics produced in the manner hereinbefore
described and shown.
Dated at Philadalnhio P. 41 01×4 day of Navambor & D 1800