IH- PROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF PLAIN OR ORNAMENTAL WOVEN OR LOOPED FABRICS FROM CERTAIN DESCRIPTIONS OF YARN, AND FOR THE APPLI- CATION OF SUCH FABRICS TO THE MAKING OF VARIOUS ARTICLES OF DRESS, AND FOR OTHER USES, SUCH AS HATS, CAPS, GLOVES, HOSIERY, LACE SHAWLS, MANTLE AND OTHER CLOTHS, CURTAINS, TABLE, UMBRELLA, AND OTHER COVERS, SOCH FABRICS BEING MADE WITH OR WITHOUT TERRY PLUSH, OR CUT PILE SURFACES
Year: 1860

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Robert Barlow Cooley, of Nottingham, in the
County of Nottingham, Hat Manufacturer, for the Invention of "IH-
PROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF PLAIN OR ORNAMENTAL WOVEN OR
LOOPED FABRICS FROM CERTAIN DESCRIPTIONS OF YARN, AND FOR THE APPLI-
CATION OF SUCH FABRICS TO THE MAKING OF VARIOUS ARTICLES OF DRESS, AND
FOR OTHER USES, SUCH AS HATS, CAPS, GLOVES, HOSIERY, LACE SHAWLS,
MANTLE AND OTHER CLOTHS, CURTAINS, TABLE, UMBRELLA, AND OTHER
COVERS, SOCH FABRICS BEING MADE WITH OR WITHOUT TERRY PLUSH, OR
CUT PILE SURFACES."
ealed the 7th August 1860, and dated the 27th February 1860.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Robert Barlow Cooley at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
27th February 1860.
I, ROBERT BARLOW COOLEY, of Nottingham, in the County of Nottingham,
5 Hat Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of the Invention for "Iм-
PROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF PLAIN OR ORNAMENTAL WOVEN OR LOOPED
FABRICS, PROH CERTAIN DESCRIPTIONS OF YARN, AND FOR THE APPLICATION OF SUCH
FABRICS TO THE MAKING OF VARIOUS ARTICLES OF DRESS, AND FOR OTHER USES,
SUCH AS HATS, CAPS, GLOVES, HOSIERY, LACE SHAWLS, MANTLE AND OTHER CLOTHS,

page_text: CURTAINS, TABLE, UMBRELLA, AND OTHER COVERS, SUCH FABRICS BEING MADE WITH
OR WITHOUT TERRY PLUSH, OR CUT PILE SURFACES," to be as follows:-
Of late years great improvements have been made in the preparing and
spinning of yarns composed of mixtures of silk with wool, cotton, and other
fibrous materials, and such yarns are found to possess very superior qualities
for fineness; strength, and lustre to those previously produced from wool, cotton,
flax, or other fibres alone, and I mention this fact in order that it may be
understood that I do not claim as any part of my Invention the spinning of
yarns composed of silk mixed with wool, cotton, or other fibres, but simply
the application of yarns spun from mixtures of silk with particular kinds of
wool, hair, or down, to the manufacture of fabrics suitable for various purposes
as hereafter described.
The yarns I prefer to employ for the purpose of carrying out my Invention
are spun from mixtures of silk, mixed (in the preparing, carding, and combing
processes, which are well known and practised in the preparing of other
fibres for spinning) with the fur or hair of the beaver, the vicugna or vicuña,
the musquash, or with other similar descriptions of fine fur, hair or down, and
the yarns produced from such mixtures of fur, hair, or down will be found
to possess great softness, strength, and lustre, and are very suitable for
being manufactured into woven fabrics, or into knitted lace or looped fabrics
by knitting and lace machinery, and fabrics made from such yarns will
in appearance be nearly equal to those made entirely of silk, at the same
time they will be much softer, and warmer, and much less costly than if
made of silk alone. And my Invention has for its object the application
of fabrics manufactured from yarns of the above description to various
purposes, such as plush, or other weavings, for the coverings of hats,
caps, or bonnets, for gloves, hosiery, and lace, for shawl, mantle, and
other cloths, for muffs, boas, neck ties, or other articles of dress, for curtains
or other hangings, for the covers of tables, couches, chairs, or other articles of
furniture, for the covers. of umbrellas and parasols, for carriage and other
linings, and for other purposes to which such fabrics are applicable, and the
fabrics made from yarns of the above description may either be woven plain
or ornamental, or with terry plush or cut pile surfaces, according to the pur-
poses to which such fabrics are to be applied, and great variety of color may
be obtained, by combining silk of different colors in the mixing process with.
the furs or bair before mentioned, in their natural color; and I would remark
that for some purposes certain proportions of wool, cotton, flax, jute, China.
grass, or other fine fibres may be mixed with the mixture of silk and fur

page_text: before described; but yarns composed of such mixtures will not be equal
in appearance and softness to those spun from the mixture of silk and fur
before described.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Robert Barlow Cooley in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
27th August 1860.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, ROBERT
BARLOW COOLEY, of Nottingam, in the County of Nottingham, Hat Manu-
facturer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her inost Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-seventh day of February, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty, in the twenty-third year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the
said Robert Barlow Cooley, Her special licence that I, the said Robert Barlow
Cooley, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said
Robert Barlow Cooley, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any
time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter
during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use,
exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland,
the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
THE MANUFACTURE OF PLAIN OR ORNAMENTAL WOVEN OR LOOPED FABRICS FROM
CERTAIN DESCRIPTIONS OF YARN, AND FOR THE APPLICATION OF SUCH FABRICS TO THE
MAKING OF VARIOUS ARTICLES OF DRESS, AND FOR OTHES USES, SUCH AS HATS, CAPS,
GLOVES, HOSIERY, LACE SHAWLS, MANTLE AND OTHER CLOTHS, CURTAINS, TABLE,
UMBRELLA, AND OTHER COVERS, SUCH FABRICS BEING MADE WITH OR WITHOUT TERRY
PLUSH OR CUT PILE SURFACES," upon the condition (amongst others) that I,
the said Robert Barlow Cooley, my executors or administrators, by an instru-
ment in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should
particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and
in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the saine to be
filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and
immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Robert Barlow Cooley, do hereby declare
the nature of the said Invention,' and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement thereof, that is to say :-

page_text: Of late years. great improvements have been made in the preparing and
spinning of yarns, composed of mixtures of silk, wool, cotton, and other fibrous
materials, and such yarns are found to possess very superior qualities for fine-
ness, strength, and lustre, to those previously produced from wool, cotton, flax,
or other fibres alone, and I mention this fact in order that it may be under-
stood that I do not claim as any part of my Invention the spinning of yarns,
composed of silk, mixed with wool, cotton, or other fibres, but simply the
application of yarns spun from mixtures of silk with particular kinds of
wool, hair, or down, to the manufacture of fabrics suitable for various
purposes as hereinafter described. The yarns I prefer to employ for the pur-
pose of carrying out my invention are spun from mixtures of silk, mixed (in
the preparing, carding, and combing processes which are well known and
practised, in tho preparing of other fibres for spinning) with the fur or hair
of the beaver, the vicugna, or vicuña, the musquash, or with other similar
descriptions of fine fur, hair or down, and the yarns produced from such mix-
tures of fur, hair, or down, will be found to possess great softness, strength,
and lustre, and are very suitable for being manufactured into woven fabrics,
or into knitted lace or looped fabrics by knitting and lace machinery, as is
well understood, and fabrics made from such yarns will in appearance be nearly
equal to those made entirely of silk, at the same time they will be much softer
and warmer, and much less costly than if made of silk alone, (except where a
large proportion of the more costly qualities of fur are employed in the manu-
facture of such yarns). And my Invention has for its object the application
of fabrics manufactured from yarns of the above description to various purposes,
such as plush or other weavings for the coverings of hats, caps, or bonnets,
for gloves, hosiery, and lace, for shawl, mantle, and other cloths, for muffs,
boas, neckties or other articles of dress, for curtains or other hangings, for the
covers of tables, couches, chairs, or other articles of furniture, for the covers
of umbrellas and parasols, for carriage and other linings, and for other purposes
to which such fabrics are applicable; and the fabrics made from yarns of the
above description may either be woven plain or ornamental, or with terry
plush or cut pile surfaces, according to the purposes to which such fabrics are
to be applied, and great variety of color may be obtained by combining silk of
different colours in the mixing process with the furs or hair before mentioned,
in the natural color, and I would remark that for some purposes where cheap-
ness is desired certain proportions of wool, cotton, flax, jute, China grass, or
other fine fibres may be mixed with the mixture of silk and fur before des-
cribed, but yarns composed of such mixtures will not be equal in appearance

page_text: and softness to those spun from the mixture of silk and fur alone, as before
described.
I would here remark that attempts have before been made to prepare
and spin the finer and short descriptions of fur, hair, and down, into yarns
suitable for being woven into fabrics, and Patents have before been granted
for this purpose, but owing to the shortness of the fur or hair it was found
very difficult to spin yarns therefrom, and fabrics made from such yarns were
very costly and unserviceable, from the want of adhesion amongst the fibres
composing such yarns; and yarns composed of short wool or hair have been
combined by twisting a fine strand of silk therewith to give strength thereto;
but such yarns were not suitable for being applied to the purposes of my
Invention.
Within the last few years great improvements have been made in the
machinery employed for preparing, carding, and combing wool, hair, cotton,
flax, silk, and other fibrous materials, and Patents have been obtained for
mixing certain fibrous materials together by carding and combing, before
spinning, but till recently the preparing, carding, and combing of silk, silk
waste, and noils has not been successfully carried out, and previous to these
improvements in the preparing, carding, and combing processes, it was not
found practically useful to combine the fine and short descriptions of hair
and down with silk, wool, or other fibrous materials in the manufacture of
yarns suitable for the purposes of my Invention, and I state this in order
to show that owing to the great improvements in machinery for preparing,
carding, and combing wool, silk, silk waste, silk noils, and other fibrous material
suitable for spinning the fine and short fur, hair, or down may now be readily
combined with silk during those processes so as to be readily spun into
yarns of a very superior character, and that by this means I am enabled
to obtain yarns spun from mixtures of silk, hair, or down, possessing
great softness, strength, and lustre. The proportions of the silk and fur,
hair, or down employed in the manufacture of yarns suitable for carrying
out my Invention will depend in a great measure upon the fabric it is to be
woven into, and the purpose to which such fabric is to be applied, and for
many purposes equal parts of fur, hair, or down, may be mixed with silk,
and spun into yarn, but where great softness and warmth is required then a
larger proportion of fur, hair, or down may be employed, and where brightness
and lustre is required then a larger proportion of silk will be required, and
the cost of yarns composed of silk, fur, hair, or down suitable for the purposes
of my Invention will entirely depend on the proportion and quality of the fur,

page_text: hair, or down employed in the production of such yarns, but it is essential
that the proportion of the silk composing such yarns should in all cases
be sufficient to hold the short fibres together, so as to be readily spun into
yarn.
In witness whereof, I, the said Robert Barlow Cooley have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Twenty-fourth day of August, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty.
R. B. COOLEY. (L.S.)