Improvements in the Manufacture of Ornamental Woven Fabrics.
Year: 1894

page_text: Date of Application, 8th Feb., 1894
Complete Specification Left, 5th Nov., 1894-Accepted, 8th Dec., 1894
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Ornamental Woven Fabrics.
We ASA HARDY of 4 Little Lever Street Manchester in the County of
Lancaster, Merchant, and EDWARD EVANS of Bertram Road Manningham
Bradford in the County of York, Buyer, do hereby declare the nature of this
invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates chiefly to the manufacture of dress goods but it is also
applicable to other woven fabrics.
The invention consists in the formation in one piece of stripes of weft cut pile of
one kind of fibre (cotton for example) separated by stripes of plain or ornamented
fabric of a different fibre (wool for example).
This is effected by so weaving the fabric that the pile weft is not interwoven
therein excepting where the cut pile stripes are to appear, and is disengaged from
the other part of the fabric by the cutting of the pile, the pile weft so disengaged
being then entirely removed by brushing or otherwise. The warp of the pile
stripes is of similar fibre to the weft pile, the warp of the intermediate stripes
corresponding also with its weft which latter however is employed to weave the
back of the weft pile stripes.
It will be evident that by this invention many very ornamental effects can be
produced by the weaving printing or dyeing of the fabric.
Dated this 7th day of February 1894.
GEO. DAVIES & SON,
4, St. Ann's Square, Manchester, Agents for the Applicants.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Ornamental Woven Fabrics.
We ASA HARDY of 4 Little Lever Street, Manchester, in the County of
Lancaster, Merchant, and EDWARD EVANS of Bertram Road Manningham
Bradford in the County of York, Buyer, do hereby declare the nature of this
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This invention relates chiefly to the manufacture of dress goods but it is also
applicable to other woven fabrics.
The invention consists in the formation in one piece of stripes of weft cut pile
of one kind of fibre (cotton for example) separated by stripes of plain or
ornamented fabric of a different fibre (wool, or of mixed cotton and wool for
example).
•
This is effected by so weaving the fabric that the pile weft is not interwoven
therein excepting where the cut pile stripes are to appear, and is disengaged from
the other part of the fabric by the cutting of the pile, the pile weft so disengaged
being then easily and entirely removed by brushing or otherwise.
The warp of the pile stripes is of similar fibre to the weft pile, the warp of the
intermediate stripes corresponding also with its weft which latter however is
employed as binding picks to weave the back of the weft pile stripes.
It will be evident that the weft of the intermediate stripes may be similar to that
of the pile stripes and the fabric so woven that it is composed of stripes say of
cotton pile and intermediate stripes of wool or mixed fibres.

page_text: By this invention many very ornamental effects can be produced by the weaving
or dyeing of the fabric.
Such being the nature and object of our invention we will now proceed to
describe more in detail the manner in which the same may be carried into practical
effect and we have annexed hereunto a sheet of diagrams to illustrate methods of
weaving velvet and cord stripes according to the said invention.
We will explain as an example the manufacture wherein a cotton warp is used
for the weft pile stripes, and a woollen or mixed cotton and woollen warp for the
intervening stripes, a cotton weft can be evidently so interwoven that the fabric
shall be composed of a cotton weft pile stripe and an intervening woollen or a
partly woollen stripe.
By subsequently dyeing this cloth which is woven and cut as usual in the "grey"
with one colour, say brown, by a process suitable for cotton fibre, and with another
colour, say golden yellow, by a process suitable for woollen fibre, a beautiful effect
will be produced, namely a stripe of brown cotton weft pile on a ground of golden
or brown shot golden fabric of "delaine"; and such variations of colours are
evidently very numerous, and could not be obtained were all the fabric made
from cotton alone, as it is practically impossible to cut pile formed from dyed
cotton yarn.
The stripes intervening between the weft cut pile stripes are formed or woven by
the binding picks of the said pile stripes, and thus the delaine or similar fabric is
very light and suitable for ladies' dresses.
These stripes last named may be figured if required.
"
The cotton weft pile stripes may be a plain velveteen or a cord."
It will be evident that many different designs may be adopted to weave fabrics
according to our invention, but we annex two diagrams hereunto of which
No. 1 illustrates a weaver's draft and "tie up" for a stripe of cotton velvet and
a stripe of unfigured or plain cloth.
No. illustrates a draft and tie up for a stripe of cotton cord and a stripe of
unfigured or plain cloth.
In both diagrams the patterns are repeated in the drawing in of the warps
according to the width of the stripe desired.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what
we claim is―
1. The manufacture of improved woven fabrics consisting in weaving stripes of
weft pile of one kind of fibre alternating with stripes of another kind of fabric
having a warp of partially or entirely different fibre and formed by the binding
picks only of the weft pile fabric, the weft forming the pile being so floated
under the intervening fabric that the ends of the floats will be released by the
cutting of the pile, and the said floats can be removed without any necessity
for shearing the same from the back of the piece, all substantially as herein before
described.
2. The manufacture of improved woven fabrics consisting in weaving stripes of
cotton weft pile having a cotton warp alternating with stripes of a fabric composed
of cotton or other welt and woollen or other warp or mixture of warps (not entirely
cotton) floating the pile weft to the back of the intervening stripes, cutting the
pile, removing the floated weft from the back of the fabric, and applying to the
said fabric various colors by processes suitable to the cotton and the other fibre or
fibres composing the said fabric.
CN
1004
GEO. DAVIES & SON,
4, St. Ann's Square, Manchester, Agents for the Applicants.