Year: 1886

page_text: Date of Application, 5th Oct., 1886.
Complete Left, 1st July, 1887.
Complete Accepted, 2nd Aug., 1887.
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We WILLIAM DUNCAN, and ALEXANDER BLACK, both of Cellardyke, Fifeshire,
Manufacturers, do hereby declare the nature of our invention to be as follows :-
This invention has reference to a new material to be used in, and mode, and means
of, making, or manufacturing that class of boots having high tops or leggings such as
those which reach up to the knee or the whole length of the leg, and generally worn
by sea-faring and other men exposed to wet weather or places at their work. Our
improvements will enable such boots to be made cheaper and more flexible. and
comfortable for use, than they have been heretofore manufactured of leather.
And the nature and novelty of our invention consist in making the tops or legging
part of these boots of strong canvas, cotton linen, or other closely woven cloth or
textile fabric.
We carry out our improvements by first cutting the strong cotton, or linen cloth,
or light canvas into the size and shape that will make up the top or legging of the
boot, preferably in one piece, or in two, or more segments or parts, leaving width all
round thellong edges of the piece or parts for a broad or overlap joint and seam-made
of one, two or more rows of machine stitching which is done after basting, or otherwise
securing the edges or parts together in proper position, leaving the required width of
joint or seam; in the direction of the piece, for the two or more rows of stitching on
what will form the inside of the finished boot top, or legging, thus having on the inside
all the double edges and seams. These tops or leggings would be formed at their
bottom round edges with similar overlap joints and be stitched to the leather uppers
of the boots; or both the upper and top or legging part of the boot may be formed
of our new material and stitched or attached to the usual leather or other soles.
The top or legging parts (or these, and the uppers when all are made of our new
material) would be well coated and saturated with a preparation of boiled linseed oil,
and preferably placed in an ordinary drying stove until the oil has sufficiently dried;
and the cloth may be water-proofed with india-rubber or gutta-percha in double or
single texture; And when made in parts with seams or joints, we may also coat, and
cement the latter with a solution of dissolved india-rubber or gutta-percha so as to
secure the seams or joints either with or without sewing; and we may mix a small

page_text: proportion of the cement with the linseed oil for giving a subsequent coating to the
cloth on either, or both sides, or over the seams. And when the boot tops have been
thus prepared, we may give them a final coating with Archangel tar on either, or on both
sides. Instead of forming the tops or leggings of the woven fabric in parts and with
seams as described, they may be woven or knitted into the round or approximate
shape of the leg in one piece without seams, or with only one seam.
Instead of forming the boot tops of a single thickness of strong canvas or cloth as
described, they may be formed of one or more plies of thinner cloth, which would be
soaked with the linseed oil coated and finished as explained; or the individual layers
may be separately saturated and put together in the wet state, and afterwards dried,
and finished, all otherwise as described.
-Dated this 5th day of October 1886.1

page_text: Improvements in Boots.
We WILLIAM DUNCAN, and ALEXANDER BLACK, both of Cellardyke, Fifeshire,
Manufacturers, do hereby declare the nature of our invention and in what manner
the same is to be perforined, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement in writing, reference being had to the accompanying Sheet of
Drawings and to the letters and figures marked thereon; that is to say :-
Our Invention has reference to a new material to be used in, and mode and means
of making or manufacturing that class of boots having high tops or leggings such as
those which reach up to the knee or the whole length of the leg, and generally worn
by sea-faring and other men exposed to wet weather or places at their work. Our
improvements will enable such boots to be made cheaper and more flexible and
comfortable for use, than they have been as heretofore manufactured of leather.
And the nature and novelty of our invention consist in making the top or legging
part of these boots of strong canvas, cotton, linen, or other closely woven cloth or
textile fabric.
In order that our said Invention and the manner of performing or carrying the same
into effect or practice may be properly understood, we have hereunto appended an
explanatory Sheet of Drawings in which the same reference letters are used to
indicate corresponding parts in both Figures where shown. Figure 1 is a perspective
view of a boot, the top part of which only extends up towards the knee, and which is
generally worn by sailors, and manufactured in accordance with our improvements.
While Figure 2 is a perspective view of a boot the top part of which extends the
whole length of the leg up to the thigh, with the upper part shown in section, as
generally worn by fishermen, and manufactured in accordance with the improvements
of our invention.
Referring to these Drawings:-We carry out our improvements by first cutting the
strong cotton, or linen cloth, or light canvas into the size and shape that will make
up the top or legging A A¹ of the boot, preferably in one piece, with one seam up the
back at A (but it might be in two, or more seginents or parts) leaving width all along
the edges of the piece for a broad or overlap joint and seam made of one, two, or more
rows of machine stitching which may be done after basting or otherwise securing the
edges or parts together in proper position, leaving the required width of joint or seam
in the direction of the piece for the two or more rows of stitching on what will form
the inside of the finished boot top, or legging, thus having on the inside all the double
edges and seams, as seen in one form of lap seam joint at A' in Figure 1, and in the
horizontal sectional part in Figure 1A. These tops or leggings A A' are formed at
their bottom round edges with lap joints, and stitched at B, B, to the inside of the
leather uppers B of the boots both in front at B and behind over the heel at B², as
shown in Figure 1; or both the upper B, B2, and top or legging part A A' of the
boot may be formed of our new material and stitched or otherwise attached in a usual
manner to the leather or gutta-percha soles C and heels C¹ with solution or otherwise,
so as to be waterproof at the junction with soles and at all the seams; or the front
upper part B may be made of leather and the back heel part A' and top or legging

page_text: part A both of the prepared canvas down to the sole C with an inner part of double
canvas or leather sewn at A", as indicated in Figure 2. The back seam A³ in this
modification is shown as stitched while the legging A A' is turned outside in, and then
after it is turned in right, the two edges are lapped down on each side of the seam, as shown
at A³ in Figures 2 and 2 A, and either cemented with gutta-porcha or sewn to the body
part A A on each side of the seam. The top or legging parts A A', (or these and the
uppers B, B2, when all are made of our new material) are well coated and saturated
with a preparation of boiled linseed oil and preferably placed in an ordinary drying
stove until the oil has sufficiently dried; and the cloth may be waterproofed with
india-rubber or gutta-percha in double or single texture. And when made in parts
with seams or joints, we may also coat and cement the latter with a solution of dissolved
india-rubber or gutta-percha so as to secure the seams or joints either with or without
sewing and we may mix a small proportion of the cement with the linseed oil for
giving a subsequent coating to the cloth on either, or both sides, or over the seams.
And when the boot tops have been thus prepared, we may give them a final coating
with Archangel tar or pitch on either, or on both sides. Instead of forming the tops or
leggings of the woven fabric in parts and with seams as described, they may be
woven or knitted into the round or approximate shape of the leg in one piece without
seams or with only one seam.
Instead of forming the boot tops of a single thickness of strong canvas or cloth as
described, they may be formed of one or more plies of thinner cloth which would be
soaked with the linseed oil and coated and finished as explained; or the individual
layers may be separately saturated and put together in the wet state, and afterwards
dried, and finished, all otherwise as described.
The solution for coating the canvas which we have found to answer best consists of
about the following proportions of ingredients, and is prepared as hereinafter described.
To four pounds of (double boiled) linseed oil we add 6 ounces Archangel pitch or tar,
and four ounces of india-rubber, two ounces of shellac, four ounces of rosin, eight
ounces of whiting, four ounces of litharge or drying material, and one pound of lamp
black. The oil is first boiled and then the pitch or tar is added, and when that is
dissolved there is added to the boiling solution the rosin, shellac, and rubber, the
latter being dissolved in mineral naphtha. The whiting, litharge and lamp black are
subsequently added with care, and the whole ingredients boiled together for a short
time, preferably in a steam jacketed vessel, for about two hours.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said invention,
and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we claim is :-
First. The manufacture of waterproof boots, substantially as and in the manner and
for the purposes herein described in reference to and shown in the accompanying
Drawings.
Second. In the manufacture of waterproof boots, the making of the top or legging
part, or both the legging part and uppers, of strong canvas, cotton, linen or other
closely woven cloth or textile fabric, substantially as and for the purposes herein set
forth.
Third. In the manufacture of waterproof boots, the making of the leggings A, or
the leggings A and the uppers B, of strong canvas or other closely woven cloth or
textile fabric, saturated or coated with preparations of linseed oil, or oil and india-
rubber or gutta-percha, substantially as and in the manner herein described, in
reference to and shown in the accompanying Drawings.
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