An Improved System of Cutting out Dresses, and an Improved Appliance to be used in such System.
Year: 1897

page_text: Date of Application, 16th Aug., 1897
Complete Specification Left, 23rd Dec., 1897-Accepted, 5th Feb., 1898
An Improved System of Cutting out Dresses, and an Improved
Appliance to be used in such System.
I, LIZZIE ELMSLIE MOLLISON, of 74, Stamford Hill, in the County of Middlesex,
Teacher of Dressmaking, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as
follows;
-
My invention relates to an improved system of marking and cutting out dresses,
and to an improved appliance in the form of a curved template or chart, to be
used in carrying out such system.
In the accompanying drawings is represented, in Figure 1, on a reduced scale,
the curved template or chart above referred to, one edge of which is straight, and
is divided into inches and eighths of an inch, whilst the remainder is formed into
curves at the edge, for the purpose of laying down the exact shape of the different
parts of a dress, two suitably curved slots being also made through the body of the
template, and used for a similar purpose. The template itself is made of any
suitable thin material such as cardboard, or thin light metal, marks and other
suitable indications being made in the proper positions as shown. The letters
shown in dotted or interrupted lines, instead of in full ones, are supposed to be on
the other side of the template, for reference when that side is being used.
I am aware that systems somewhat resembling my improved system of dress-
cutting have been already used, but such systems have been extremely complicated
and elaborate, difficult to put in practice, and less satisfactory in their results, than
that which forms the subject of my present invention, whilst the charts or appli-
ances used in putting them into practice have been numerous, complicated, and
difficult of comprehension.
In order to put my invention in operation, it is necessary that the person for
whom the dress is to be made, should first be carefully measured, and the measure-
ments noted. The following are the more important of such measurements: -
Bust,
Waist,
Back Measurement,
Side Seam in Back,
Under Arm Seam,
Front Length,
Chest,
Breast Pleats,-from Front,
Breasts, High,
Elbow,
Length,
Width, Top,
Back Length,
Neck,
Half Arm,
Hip,
Shoulder,
Throat to Waist,
Wrist,
"
"
Top Muscle,
Fore Arm,
Inside Length,
Height of Shoulder.
These measurements having been taken, a sheet of paper is laid down, upon
which the pattern for the back of the dress is drawn. Across this paper, near its

page_text: top edge, draw a horizontal line, which may be called A. At right angles to this
line draw, near the left-hand edge of the paper, another, vertical, line, which may
be called B. Measure along the line A, from the point of intersection, a space
equal to the width of back neck, that is to say, for a 9-inch neck, a length of one
inch; and for each additional inch a length of one-eighth of an inch more, and
make a mark upon the line A. Measure down the line B, from the point of inter-
section of A and B, of an inch, and from this point draw a horizontal line
parallel to the line A, which line may be called the neck line C. From the starting
point on B draw a line to the mark made upon the line A as described, for the
width of back neck.
From the neck line C measure 34 inches down the line B, and draw a horizontal
line parallel with A, which may be called the shoulder line.
From the intersection of the lines C and B measure down the line B the back
length of bodice, and from this point draw a line parallel to A, which may be called
the waist line. From a point on this waist ling five-eighths of an inch to the
right of the line B, draw a straight line to the point Con neck line, which may be
called the centre back seam. From the lower end of this line measure upon waist
line the length of the back waist, allowing 3 inches for a 21-inch waist, and
adding of an inch for each additional inch of waist. On line B measure up from
the waist line the side seam measurement, and from this point draw a horizontal
line parallel with A, which may be called the bust line, and mark upon it half
the back width from centre of back.
"
"
For the shoulder, place the divided straight edge of the template with its zero
point upon the point of the neck marked on the line A, whilst the number 7
on' the scale rests upon the horizontal shoulder line, and draw against its edge a
straight line five-eighths of an inch 'more than the length of shoulder. Then place
the point D on the slot in the template against this point, adjusting the curve
towards E to meet the point marked at the right hand of the bust line, and draw
a line along this curve, which line forms the back of the armhole: Then place the
point on the template on the point marking the width of the back waist (as
already determined), and draw a line along the curve to the lower end of the curve
defining the back arm-hole as already given, the curve last made forming the side
seam.
BASQUE.
Draw a vertical line from the lower end of the centre back seam for a distance
of four inches below the waist line. Then place the mark on the template on
the point where the side seam curve meets the waist line, and adjust the template
so that a curve may be drawn down, inclining out to the right, (an inch or more
according to the figure).
FRONT.
First draw, upon another sheet of paper, straight horizontal and vertical lines A
and B, similar to those described for the back. From the point of intersection
measure 2 inches down the vertical line B, and draw a horizontal line parallel
with A, forming the front shoulder line. From this front shoulder line measure
down the line 13 half the arm measure, and through this point draw another hori-
zontal line parallel with A, which line forms the front bust line. Upon this latter
measure half the bust measure, deducting half the back width (plus half an inch
more to allow for the curve in front). Then measure beyond this to the right,
3 inches, (to allow for space in cutting out) and draw parallel to the line B the
side seam measurement.
For the shoulder, measure 2 inches along the line A, from its point of inter-
section with the line B, and place the zero of the divided straight edge of the
template upon this point, adjusting it until the mark 6 rests upon the shoulder
line, and measure upon this line from the point where it meets the line A the
exact length of shoulder. Place the back neck measurement on the scale at the
shoulder point on the line A, making the front length measurement rest, on
the line B, and from this point draw a connecting line to the side seam. This is

page_text: the front waist line. Measure the front bust 'line and front waist line. If the
latter has gained at all, deduct at the line B at the front, a corresponding distance.
DARTS.
The calculations for the width upon the front waist line of the spaces forming
the darts are given in the table shown on Figure 2 in the accompanying drawing,
in which the upper horizontal line refers to various bust measurements, and the
side vertical lines to the various waist measurements. The figures at the inter-
section of the required bust measure and waist measure give the width of the dart
spaces.
To set out these dart spaces, commence 1½ inches from the front waist line,
(unless the figure be broad, when a greater distance must be allowed. The same
rule applies, for the space between the darts). Now mark off the first daŕt, and
then the second dart, allowing five-eighths of an inch between the two. Then
measure from the centre of the base of the dart the vertical height' (height of
breast pleats), and from the two sides of the dart, where they meet the waist 'line;
draw curves to their highest central point, by means of the template, placing the
point C (or F, on the other side of the template) upon the lower points of the darts,
along the curve in the direction of D. Next measure from the side seam, on the
waist line,, to the corner of the second dart, and divide this length into two equal
parts, and from the centre set off upon the waist line 1 inches to the right and
to the left, and from the points so obtained draw vertical straight lines, meeting
the front bust line. On the waist line measure one quarter of an inch, to the left
and right respectively of these two vertical lines, and from the points so 'obtained,
draw lines to the upper ends of the parallel vertical lines. Then from the front
waist line measure upwards on the line B the throat-to-waist measurement, and fit
the neck curve between G and H at the back of the template, between the highest
point of the shoulder on the line A, and the highest point (just obtained) of the
throat-to-waist measure on the line B, and draw the curve from the template. One
inch above the point of the second dart draw a horizontal line through the line B,
and on this line, to the left of the line B, measure inch from the latter. Place
the point on the template upon the point so obtained, and draw a curve to the
waist line. Then reverse the template, and from the same point draw a curve to
the point where the neck curve meets the line B. From the front curve, at the
height of the front bust line, mark off the chest measurement. Then carefully
fit the curve on the template between D and K, so that it touches the shoulder,
chest, and front side seam' measurements, and draw the curve accordingly. The
same curve may also be used to define the upper end of the under-arm side piece.
;
I
BASQUE.
For normal figures, draw 4 inches below the waist, darts or spaces very slightly
converging, using a on the template for the curve at the front side seam, sloping
out 1 inch or more, as in the back.
SLEEVE.
In order to set out the sleeve, draw a horizontal line A near the top of the paper;
one inch more than half the top width of sleeve, and two inches within the right-
hand extremity of this line make a mark which serves to form the shape of the
under half of the sleeve. From the other extremity of the line A draw down a
vertical line B the length of the sleeve, and at the lower extremity of this line draw
a horizontal line one inch more than the wrist measure. From the lower end of
the line B measure 3 inches up, and from this point draw a line to the extremity
of the lower horizontal line just described, and from this point measure on the line
last drawn one inch more than the measurement width of wrist, and from the saine
point also measure 2 inches, and make another mark, for defining the under half
of the sleeve. Now fit the point n on the template, upon the mark made on the
upper horizontal line A, as already described for obtaining the under half of the
sleeve, and draw along the curve to the corresponding point just described on
the lower wrist line. With the same curve also draw a corresponding line from

page_text: the right-hand extremity of the line A to the lower right-hand extremity of the
wrist-line, the two curved lines being, therefore, parallel. Then measure down
from the upper point of the outer last described curve, the elbow length measure-
ment, and at the centre of this, measure across, one inch more than the top muscle
measurement. 2 inches below the elbow, measure across 1 inch more than the
fore arm measurement. Then place the measuring rule at the upper end of the
wrist measure, the other end of the rule touching the right-hand extremity of
the upper horizontal line A, and make a mark at a point 1 inches less than the
sleeve measures from elbow to wrist. Place the rule between the mark just made
and the angle between the lines A, B, and mark off the inside length. Then use
the front seam sleeve curve on the template, so that it touches the marks made for
the inside length, the top muscle and the fore-arm measurements, drawing the
curve from it. Also use the same curve for the under-half of sleeve at the top,
and use the sleeve top curve on the template from the point defining the inside
length to the outer or right-hand point of the upper horizontal line A, also making
it touch the mark which was made determining the height.
COLLAR.
Use the curve on the template between C and D, making the depth according to
fancy. Draw a line for centre back, slightly sloping towards top. The lower
edge being 1 inches more than half of neck measure, and the top ditto.
It will be readily seen that by my invention the important parts of a dress are
very easily, quickly, and accurately laid down and cut out, the system being very
easily acquired, and only a single template or chart being required, for the purpose
of applying it to figures of any measurement.
AL
16th
f Aumunt 1907
EDWARDS & Co.,
65 and 66, Chancery Lane, London, Agents for the Applicant.
An Improved System of Cutting out Dresses, and an Improved
Appliance to be used in such System.
I, LIZZIE ELMSLIE MOLLISON, of 74, Stamford Hill, in the County of Middlesex,
Teacher of Dressmaking, do hereby declare the nature of this invention, and in
what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascer-
tained in and by the following statement, that is to say:-
My invention relates to an improved system of marking and cutting out dresses,
and to an improved appliance in the form of a curved template or chart, to be used
in carrying out such system.
The
In the drawings accompanying my Provisional Specification is represented, in
Figure 1, on a reduced scale, the curved template or chart above referred to, one
edge of which is straight, and is divided into inches and eighths of an inch, whilst
the remainder is formed into curves at the edge for the purpose of laying down the
exact shape of the different parts of the dress, two suitably curved slots being also
similar
made through the body of the template, and used for a
purpose.
template itself is made of any suitable thin material such as cardboard, or thin light
metal, marks and other suitable indications being made in the proper positions as
shown. The letters shown in dotted or interrupted lines, instead of in full ones,
are supposed to be on the other side of the template, for reference when that side
is being used.
I am aware that systems somewhat resembling my improved system of dress-

page_text: These measurements having been taken, a sheet of paper is laid down, upon which
the pattern for the back of the dress is drawn as follows. Across this paper, near
its top edge, draw a horizontal line, which may be called A. At right angles to
this draw, near the left-hand edge of the paper, another, vertical, line, which may
be called B. Measure along the line A from the point of intersection, a space
equal to the width of back neck;-that is to say, for a 9-inch neck, a length of
one inch; and for each additional inch a length of one-eighth of an inch more,
and make a mark upon the line A. Measure down the line B, from the point of
intersection of A and B, 1 of an inch, and from this point draw a horizontal line
parallel to the line A, which line may be called the neck line C. From the starting
point on B draw a line to the mark made upon the line A as described, for the
width of back neck.
From the neck line C measure 3 inches down the line B, and draw a horizontal
line parallel with A, which may be called the shoulder line.
From the intersection of the lines C and B, measure down the line B the back
length of bodice, and from this point draw a line parallel to A, which may be called
the waist line. From a point on this waist line five-eighths of an inch to the right
of the line B, draw a straight line to the point C on neck line, which may be called
the centre back seam. From the lower end of this line measure upon waist line
the length of the back waist, allowing 3 inches for a 21-inch waist, and adding of
an inch for each additional inch of waist. On line B measure up from the waist
line the side seam measurement, and from this point draw a horizontal line parallel
with A, which may be called the bust line, and mark upon it half the back width
from centre of back.
For the shoulder, place the divided straight edge of the template with its zero
point upon the point of the neck marked on the line A, whilst the number 7
on the scale rests upon the horizontal shoulder line, and draw against its edge a
straight line five-eighths of an inch more than the length of the shoulder. Then
place the mark 1) on the slot in the template against this point adjusting the curve
towards E to meet the point marked at the right-hand of the bust line, and draw a
line along this curve, which line forms the back of the arm-hole. Then place the
point Fon the template on the point marking the width of the back waist (as
already determined), and draw a line along the curve to the lower end of the
curve defining the back arm-hole as already given, the curve last made forming
the side seam.

page_text: BASQUE.
Draw a vertical line from the lower end of the centre back seam for a distance
of four inches below the waist line. Then place the mark on the template on
the point where the side seam curve meets the waist line, and adjust the template
so that a curve may be drawn down, inclining out to the right, an inch or more
according to the figure.
FRONT.
IL M
First draw, upon another sheet of paper, straight horizontal and vertical lines A
and B, similar to those described for the back. From the point of intersection
measure 2 inches down the vertical line B, and draw a horizontal line parallel
with A, forming the front shoulder line. From this front shoulder line measure
down the line B half the arm measure, and through this point draw another hori-
zontal line parallel with A, which line forms the front bust line. Upon this latter
measure half the bust measure, deducting half the back width (plus half an inch
more to allow for the curve in front). Then measure beyond this to the right,
3 inches, (to allow for space in cutting out) and draw parallel to the line B the
side seam measurement.
For the shoulder, measure 2 inches along the line A, from its point of inter-
section with the line B, and place the zero of the divided straight edge of the
template upon this point, adjusting it till the mark rests upon the shoulder
line, and measure upon this line from the point where it meets the line A the
exact length of shoulder. Place the back neck measurement on the scale at the
shoulder point on the line A, making the front length measurement rest
the line B, and from this point draw a connecting line to the side seam. This is
the front waist line. Measure the front bust line and front waist line. If the
latter has gained at all, deduct at the line B at the front, a corresponding distance.
DARTS:.
17
on
The calculations for the width upon the front waist line of the spaces forming
the darts are given in the table shown on Figure 2 in the accompanying drawing,
in which the upper horizontal line refers to various bust measurements, and the
side vertical lines to the various waist measurements. The figures at the inter-
section of the required bust measure and waist measure give the width of the dart
spaces.
To set out these dart spaces, commence 1½ inches from the front waist line,
(unless the figure be broad, when a greater distance must be allowed. The same
rule applies, for the space between the darts). Now mark off the first dart, and
then the second dart, allowing five-eighths of an inch between the two. Then
measure from the centre of the base of the dart the vertical height (height of
breast pleats), and from the two sides of the dart, where they meet the waist line,
draw curves to their highest central point, by means of the template, placing the
point. C (or F, on the other side of the template) upon the lower points of the darts,
along the curve in the direction of D. Next measure from the side seam, on the
waist line, to the corner of the second dart and divide this length into two equal
parts, and from the centre set off upon the waist line 1½ inches to the right and
to the left, and from the points so obtained draw vertical straight lines, meeting
the front bust line. On the waist line measure one quarter of an inch, to the left
and right respectively of these two vertical lines, and from the points so obtained
draw lines to the upper ends of the parallel vertical lines. Then from the front
waist line measure upwards on the line B the throat-to-waist measurement, and fit
the neck curve between G and H,at the back of the template, between the highest
point of the shoulder on the line A, and the highest point (just obtained) of the
throat-to-waist measure on the line B, and draw the curve from the template. One
inch above the point of the second dart draw a horizontal line through the line B,
and on this line, to the left of the line B, measure ½ inch from the latter.
the point on the template on the point so obtained, and draw a curve to the
Place

page_text: waist line. Then reverse the template, and from the same point draw a curve to
the point where the neck curve meets the line B. From the front curve, at the
height of the front bust line, mark off the chest measurement. Then carefully
fit the curve on the template between D and K so that it touches the shoulder,
chest, and front side seam measurements, and draw the curve accordingly. The
same curve may also be used to define the upper end of the under-arm side piece.
BASQUE.
For normal figures, draw 4 inches below the waist, darts or spaces very slightly
converging, using on the template for the curve at the front side seam, sloping
out 1 inch or more, as in the back.
SLEEVE.
In order to set out the sleeve, draw a horizontal line A near the top of the paper,
one inch more than half the top width of sleeve, and two inches within the right-
hand extremity of this line make a mark which serves to form the shape of the
under half of the sleeve. From the other extremity of the line A. draw down a
vertical line B the length of the sleeve, and at the lower extremity of this line draw
a horizontal line one inch more than the wrist measure. From the lower end of
the line B measure 3 inches up, and from this point draw a line to the extremity
of the lower horizontal line just described, and from this point measure on the line
last drawn one inch more than the measurement width of wrist, and from the same
point also measure 2 inches, and make another mark, for defining the under half
of the sleeve. Now fit the point n on the template upon the mark made on the
upper horizontal line A, as already described for obtaining the under half of the
sleeve, and draw along the curve to the corresponding point just described on
the lower wrist line. With the same curve also draw a corresponding line from
the right-hand extremity of the line A to the lower right-hand extremity of the
wrist-line, the two curved lines being, therefore, parallel. Then measure down
from the upper point of the outer last-described curve, the elbow length measure-
ment, and at the centre of this, measure across, one inch more than the top muscle
measurement. 2½ inches below the elbow, measure across 1 inch more than the
fore-arm measurement. Then place the measuring rule at the upper end of the
wrist measure, the other end of the rule touching the right-hand extremity of
the upper horizontal line A, and make a mark at a point 1 inches less than the
sleeve measures from elbow to wrist. Place the rule between the mark just made
and the angle between the lines A, B, and mark off the inside length. Then use
the front seam sleeve curve on the template so that it touches the marks made for
the inside length, the top muscle and the fore-arm measurements, drawing the
curve from it.
Also use the same curve for the under-half of sleeve at the top,
and use the sleeve top curve on the template from the point defining the inside
length to the outer or right-hand point of the upper horizontal line A, also making
it touch the mark which was made determining the height.
Collar.
Use the curve on the template between C and D, making the depth according to
fancy. Draw a line for centre back, slightly sloping towards top. The lower
edge being 1 inches more than half of neck measure, and the top ditto.
It will be seen that by my invention the important parts of a dress are
very easily, quickly and accurately laid down and cut out, the system being very
easily acquired, and only a single template or chart being required, for the purpose
of applying it to figures of any measurement.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is:
1. The improved system of marking and cutting out dresses, substantially as
described.

page_text: 2. For the purpose of carrying out the improved system of cutting out dresses,
the template or chart having curved edges and slots, the edges being suitably,
marked and graduated, substantially in the manner and for the purposes described
and illustrated.
Dated this 23rd day of December 1897.
EDWARDS & Co.,
65 and 66, Chancery Lane, London, Agents for the Applicant.