MENTS IN MACHINERY FOR SEWING OR STITCHING VARIOUS FABRICS
Year: 1846

page_text: In the Matter of a Patent granted to William Thomas, of Cheapside,
in the City of London, Merchant, for an Invention for "IMPROVE
MENTS IN MACHINERY FOR SEWING OR STITCHING VARIOUS FABRICS,"
(communicated to him from a foreigner residing abroad), bearing
date at Westminster, the First day of December, One thousand
eight hundred and forty-six, and to which a Specification was duly
enrolled.
DISCLAIMER AND MEMORANDUM OF ALTERATION proposed to be
entered by the said William Thomas with the Clerk of the Patents of
England, pursuant to the Statutes in that case made and provided.
WHEREAS it has been held by a Court of Law that by the second claiming
clause, near the end of the said Specification, claim is made generally to the
application of a needle and a shuttle for forming and securing loops of thread
or other substance for the purpose of producing stitches either to unite or
ornament various fabrics (but which claim it was not my intention to make);
for this reason I wish to disclaim, and I do hereby disclaim, the following
part of my said Specification, videlicet:―
'Secondly, I claim the application of a shuttle, in combination with a
needle, as shewn in Sheet I. of the Drawings, for forming and securing
loops of thread or other substance for the purpose of producing stitches
"either to unite or ornament various fabrics, whatever may be the means
employed for working such shuttle and needle, when employed together."
And whereas objection has been made to the novelty of the double frame,
and the mode of actuating such frame; and although I sincerely believe the

page_text: "
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"as I, the said William Thomas, my exors, admors, or assigns, should at any
"time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times during
"the term of years therein mentioned, should and lawfully might make, use,
"exercise, and vend, within England and Wales, and the Town of Berwick-
upon-Tweed, and in all Her Majesty's Colonies and Plantations abroad,
"and in the Islands of Jersey, Guernsey, Alderney, Sark and Man, an
" Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY FOR SEWING OR STITCHING VARIOUS
FABRICS," being a communication from a foreigner residing abroad; in which
"said Letters Patent is contained a proviso obliging me, the said William
Thomas, by an instrument in writing under my hand and seal, particularly
"to describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what
manner the same is to be performed, and to cause the same to be inrolled
"in Her Majesty's High Court of Chancery within six calendar months next
"and immediately after the date of the said in part recited Letters Patent, as
"in and by the same, reference being thereunto had, will more fully and at
large appear."
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"NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said
"William Thomas, do hereby declare that the nature of the said Invention,
"and the manner in which the same is to be performed, is particularly
"described and ascertained in and by the following description thereof,
"reference being had to the Drawings hereunto annexed, and to the letters
" and figures marked thereon (that is to say):-
"This Invention consists in certain novel arrangements of machinery,
"whereby fabrics of various textures may be sewn together in such a manner
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as to produce a firm and lasting seam. By this Invention a shuttle, when
"the point of the needle has entered the cloth or other fabric under opera-
"tion and formed a loop of thread, passes through that loop and leaves a
"thread on the face of the cloth, by which means the needle when it is with-
"drawn from the cloth instead of drawing back the thread with it, leaves a
tightened loop on the opposite side of the cloth to that at which it
"entered. The fabric then passing forward to the distance of the length of
"the stitch required, is again pierced with the needle, and a stitch is in like
manner produced."
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"Having thus given a general idea of the operation of the machine, I will
"proceed to describe the various parts of one arrangement of sewing machine
"in detail, reference being had to Sheet 1 of the accompanying Drawings."
Figure 1 is a front elevation of the machine, and Figure 2 is a plan or
top view of the same; Figure 3 is an elevation of the right-hand side; and
Figure 4, a similar view of the left-hand side of the machine."
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page_text: "The several detached views, also exhibited in the Drawing, will be referred
"to hereafter."
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:
A, A, is the main framing of the machine; B is the driving shaft mounted
*in bearings on the top of the framing A; C is a fly wheel keyed on to the
"shaft B, and provided with a winch handle to set the machine in action; but
" instead thereof, it may be driven by a band and pulley in connection with
any first mover; A', A', are pendant parts of the framing for supporting
"various parts of the machine, which I will now explain. D is a horizontal
"fixed axle, having its bearings in the lower ends of the parts A', A', Figure 1,
"and upon this axle an arm or needle carrier E vibrates freely; F is a 1
"horizontal pin fixed firmly to the part A, and intended to support a vibrating
"lever G, the upper end of which is provided with a roller 1, and the lower
"end passes through an eye or saddle picce 2 projecting from the lower end
"of the arm E. The roller 1 works in a cam groove 8, cut in a roller H,
"which is keyed on to the shaft B. Attached to the bottom plate of the 1
"machine is a shuttle race I, the peculiar construction of which will be seen
" in the detached views, Figures 5, 6, and 7."
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Figure 5 represents the shuttle race in plan view; Figure 6 is a side
"view, and Figure 7 a vertical section of the same."
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"The traverse of the shuttle is effected in the following manner :-K, K',
"are two vibrating levers situated one on either side of the machine and
"mounted on studs projecting from the framing. The lower end of these
"levers are each provided with a striking pieco 4, 4, capable of sliding freely
"in the shuttle raco I, and their upper ends are bent inwards so as to embrace
a cam L fixed on the shaft B. By the rotation of this shaft the largest
"radius of the cam L comes alternately into contact with the upper ends of
"the levers K, K', and forcing them outwards gives their lower ends a move-
*"ment in the opposite direction, whereby each end of the shuttle alternately
"receiving a blow, it is made to traverse backwards and forwards in the
"shuttle race."
"I will now explain the mechanism for carrying the cloth or other fabric
"past the needle after the stitch is produced. Beneath the bottom plate of
"the machine is a horizontal shaft M, which turns in bearings prepared to
"receive it. This shaft carries a spiked or cogged wheel N, and also a ratchet
"wheel O. The spiked wheel N is intended to take into a steel rib or plate P,
having corresponding holes made therein for that purpose, and by its rotation
carry the steel rib forward. From one edge of this rib or plate P, (see
Figure 8) a series of pins project for the purpose of holding the two thick-
nesses of cloth which are intended to be sewn together. When curved

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"
"
seams are required to be made, the rib must be bent into a corresponding
shape. It will therefore be necessary when uniting the various parts of
a coat to prepare a set of steel ribs to suit the several forms of
seam contained therein. The steel rib P is placed in the machine with
"its flat face, horizontal, and the cloth being. pressed upon its projecting
"pins the edges of the cloth will stand perpendicular and at right angles to
"the steel rib, as shewn at Figures 3 and.4. Rotary motion is communicated
" to the wheel N in the following manner:-Into the teeth of the ratchet
"wheel O, which is keyed on to the same shaft as the wheel N, a pawle or
"ratchet 5 takes; this pawle 5 ischinged to a lever 6, 6, which is supported by
" and vibrates on a stud projecting from a bracket 7 beneath the bed plate
" of the framing. At about the middle of its length the lever 6 has a spring
"8 attached to it for the purpose of acting upon the square socket end of the
"catch 5, and keeping the catch in the notches of the wheel O. The upper
"end of the lever 6 is bent inwards to meet the face. of a- rotating cam 9
"keyed upon the driving shaft B, and by means of a spring 10, the end of
"which embraces the pin which forms the connection between the catch, 5 and
"the lever 6; this lever has a tendency to press upon the cam 9, but is
"enabled to recede when the increasing radius of the cam acts upon its upper
"end. As the lever 6 is pressed back by the rotation of the cam 9, it draws
"with it the catch 5 (the end of which has hold of a. tooth of the ratchet
"wheel), and pulls round the wheel O part of a revolution; whereby a
corresponding movement is given to the wheel N."
"This motion, which occurs at the completion of every stitch, carries forward
"the plate P with the cloth upon it just so far as. will allow. of the needle
* commencing to form another loop at the required distance from the former
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one according to the coarseness or fineness of the work required to be
"produced. When the larger radius or eccentric portion of the cam 9 has
"passed the end of the lever 6, that lever will by the pressure of. the spring
"10 be made to assume its former position, and carry the catch forward to
take into a notch in the ratchet wheel as before. This part of the machine
"admits of adjustment to suit coarse or fine work, and the mode of effecting
"such adjustment will be seen by reference to Figures 2, 3, and 4. 11 is a
"lever placed horizontally, and supported on a pin standing up from the bed
"plute, and 12 is a screw which works in an ear attached to the bed-plate.
"This screw 12 is so placed that its end comes in contact with one end of the
"lever 11, the other end of which lever presses against the lever 6 in an
opposite direction to the spring 10. It will now bo understood that as the
movement of the cloth through the machine is produced by the catch 5
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page_text: "pawling a certain number of teeth of the ratchet wheel, if the vibration of
"the lever 6 is reduced a similar reduction will be made in the "throw" of
"the catch 5. When therefore a finer quality of sewing is required, the scrow
12 is turned so as to thrust forward the outer end of the horizontal lever
"11, and make its other end bear back the lever 6, by which means the throw
" of the catch 5 will be shortened; for coarser work, it will be only necessary
"to turn the screw 12 in the reverso direction. Q is a bobbin capable of
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turning on a pin standing out from a bracket on the front part of the framing
"A; this bobbin is provided with silk thread or other material for sewing,
"and it is tightened by a friction band R in order to keep a proper tension
"on the thread when working. S is a lever provided at its lower end with
a pin 18, which is intended to take up the loose thread when the needle
"is performing its inward motion; this lever S is supported by a pin at its
upper end passing through a tubo which forms part of a rocking arm 14;
"this arm is screwed to a short horizontal rod 15 turning in a bearing 16
"affixed to the main framing, and the other end of the rod 15 carries an
arm 17, which is always in contact with a cam T attached to the roller II
"and revolving therewith. When, therefore, the arm 17 is pressed upon by
"the cam T, the arm 14 will be made to raise the lever S; but in order that
"its pin 18 may take up the thread as the needle recedes, and let it slip when
"the needle is entering the cloth, the following contrivance is adopted :-
"A spiral spring is placed on the outer end of the pin, which supports the
"lever S, one end of the spring being secured to that pin, and the other to
"the arm 14. By this means the lever S has always a tendency to move
"laterally towards the needle, which tendency is regulated by an excentric
groove 18, formed on a plate U (see Figure 1) immediately behind the
"lever. In this groove a pin 19 projecting from the back of the lever S (at
right angles to the pin 18) is made to work, by which means, when tho
"lever is drawn up (as before explained), the pin 13 will receive a forward as
"well as upward motion, and coming in front of the needle, will draw up the
"slackened thread. On that side of the lever G nearest the lever Sa
wedge 20 is provided, which moving forward with the needle, will at tho
"time the cloth is pierced come in contact with the lever S (then in its
"elevated position) and thrust it aside, whereby the pin 13 is withdrawn
"from the thread, and the lever S falls to its lowest position. This con-
"trivance is not essential to the working of the machine, but by its action all
"chance of the thread getting entangled, or of the needle piercing the thread
"when coming forward to enter the cloth, is removed."
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Having now referred to the principal parts of the machine, and described

page_text: "their use, I will proceed to explain more fully their action, reserving the
"detail of such portions of the mechanism as have not been mentioned for the
"after part of my Specification, when the object of such parts will be better
understood."
"In working this machine two threads are employed, one of which is
"wound upon the bobbin Q, and the other is carried in the shuttle. The
"threads from the bobbin Q is brought down and passed through a hole in
"the end of the lever G; it is then drawn under the stem of the needle and
"
passed up through the eye thereof. The peculiar construction of this needle
"will be best seen at Figures 9, which represent it detached in plan and edge
"views. The needle is curved, so as to form an are of a circle struck from
"the pin D, which is the centre of its motion, and the eye is made near the
point of the needle. From the eye to the socket the needle is grooved both.
" on its upper and under face, in order that the thread may lie therein, and be
"
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protected from unnecessary friction when the needle pierces, and is with-
"drawn from the cloth. In the front of the shuttle race (see Figure 6) is a
"horizontal slot 21; at 22 this slot is widened to allow the needle to pass
through it readily, and through the slot at the end of the thread on the bobbin
"of the shuttle is drawn. The cloth to be sewn is attached to the steel rib P
by means of the pins on its edge, and the pieces are thereby held firmly
together while the seam is being made. The cloth when so fixed on the steel
"rib is brought between the plate U and the slotted side of the shuttle race, and
"the operator holding the ends of the two threads between his fingers com-
"mences to work the machine. Rotary motion is now given to the shaft B
by means of the handle on the fly wheel, and the several cams above
"mentioned are thereby set in motion. Supposing the machine to be in the
position shewn in the Drawings, (the needle having just completed its thrust
"into the cloth) and the shaft B to be revolving in the direction of the arrow,
"the cam groove 3 in the roller H will allow the roller 1 to remain stationary
"until the concentric portion of the cam groove from a, a; to b, b, (see
Figure 10, which represents the groove as laid out flat,) has passed the
roller; the inclined or excentric part from b, b, to c, c, will then act upon the
"roller 1 at the upper end of the lever G, and draw it inwards. This motion
"will cause the lower end of the lever G to raise the arm E (it being con-
"nected thereto by the saddle or eye 2, as before stated,) and draw the needle,
"which is attached to its lower end, out of the cloth. When the roller 1 is
"arrived at the point c, c, of the groove 8, the needle will be at its farthest
"backward position, and will remain stationary, the groove being then again
"concentric until an excentric portion of the cam, the reverse of that, before
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traversed by the roller 1, presents itself at d, d; the upper end of the lever
"G will then be thrust out, and its lower end, moving in an opposite direction,
"will drive the point of the needle through the cloth under operation; a
"slight backward motion is given to the needle, in order to slacken the thread
" which forms the loop, and the needle remains stationary until the concentric
portion of the cam groove 3 has passed the roller 1, as before stated. While
"the needle is performing its forward and backward movements, the cloth
"is held firmly against the sides of the shuttle race I by the plate U,
"the pressure of which is regulated by a screw passing through a slot in the
framing, and abutting against the upper end of the plate U. It is necessary
now to explain the manner of retaining the thread which the needle has
"carried through the cloth, so as to form a loop that will not be drawn out by
"the return motion of the needle. This is effected, before stated, by a shoot
" of thread laid in the loop which is formed by the slackened thread on the
"opposite face of the cloth to that at which the needle enters, and for the
purpose the shuttle is made to traverse the shuttle race and pass through
"the loop. The cam L, which is keyed on the shaft B, and placed between
"the upper ends of the arms K and K', is so formed, that when the needle
"bas produced a loop, its increasing radius will act upon one of the levers K,
" and cause it to strike the shuttle. Now, supposing the needle to have just
"formed a loop as it will have done when the mechanism is in the position
"shewn in the Drawing, the cam L will act upon the lever K¹, and cause the
"striker 4* to drive the shuttle through the loop, and consequently leave a
"thread therein. This shoot thread is held firmly, by means which I will
"presently explain, until the needle has receded and drawn the loop tight to
"form a secure stitch. The shoot thread is then let go, and by the time the
"needle has returned to commence a fresh stitch, the cam L will have travelled
"round to act upon the arm K in a manner similar to that of K', and
" drive the shuttle back to its former position in the shuttle race, ready to
"be passed through a second loop as soon as formed by the needle. In
"order to prevent the levers K. when in rapid action from carrying the strikers
out of the shuttle race, a stop 23 is provided for each, as shewn at Figure 1,
"but if the strikers are required to be removed, the stops may be readily
"loosened and turned aside. The holding of the shoot thread while the
"needle is drawing the loop (or stitch) tight is produced as follows:-On
"the shaft B is a cam V, the excentric portion of which depresses an elastic
"tieadle 24, supported by a stud on the framing. Beneath this treadle and
"attached thereto is a vertical rod 25, which rests at bottom on a short
rocking lever 26, best shewn in the detached view, Figure 5. This lever
વડ
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"rocks on a stud 27 projecting from a bracket on the bed plate of the
"machine; its outer or front end lies under the shuttle race I,.and a portion
"of the front side of that race is cut away from the slot 21 downwards to
"allow the end of the lever, which is bent up at a right angle, to fill up that
space (as shewn in Figures. 1 and 6.). When, therefore, the thread. pro-
"ceeding from the side of the shuttle has been passed through the loop by
"the propulsion of the arm.K', the thread while sliding along the slot will,
"on the elevation of the outer end of the lever 26, be held.tightly between.
"it and the upper edge of the slot. The depression of the treadle 24 by the
cam V will, through the rod 25, communicate a similar movement to the
"inner end of the lever 26, and proportionably raise the outer end thereof,
"but in order that not more than a sufficient pressure shall be. put on the
thread the elastic treadle is introduced, as above stated."
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"I will now more particularly describe the shuttle race. and the parts in
"immediate connection therewith, in order that the mode of. tightening and-
securing the stitch may be clearly. understood. To the upper edge of the
"shuttle race a spring is attached, which carries two pins (see Figures 5.
"and 7); these pins are intended to press upon a spring f at the upper part
"of the shuttle g, and put a small amount of friction on the bobbin as it
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passes under them. That end of the shuttle which. enters the, loop- is
".pointed in order to allow of its working. more. freely, the other end.is.
"squared off, as shewn in the Drawing. When the shuttle has passed-
"through the loop a. round pin h attached to the striker 4* takes up the
"loop, and as the thread is tightened by the receding of the needle the pin
gives way until the thread slips off it, the pin then returns to its primary
position. This is effected in the following way:The pin h forms a portion.
" of a small lever rivetted to the striker (see the.detached. views, Figure 11),
"which, when it has driven the shuttle forward, brings a flat part of the
"lever hopposite the end of a spring lever i, supported on. a pin.k, and-
"capable of adjustment by a screw 1. A portion of the side of the shuttle-
"race is cut away, as shewn by dots at Figure-7, to allow this. spring. to act,
"and while it presses on the flat. part of the. lever the round. pin at its-
"other end. will for a time be able to resist the pull. of the thread until the
"tension is too great; the pin will then tip forward, and the thread will: slide.
": off, as before stated, and close upon the shoot thread. Figure 12 shews.
"the form of the cams mentioned in the foregoing description, and their
"position on the shaft B. with respect to each other.""
"In Sheet II., Figure 1 represents in front view an arrangement of double-
"frame to be used (in lieu of the steel rib P, beforo mentioned,) for-

page_text: "supporting the cloth or other substance under operation, and moving
"it about in any required direction, so that various ornamental forms
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or lines of stitches may be produced as required. Figure 2 is a sectional
"clevation of the same; Figure 3, Sheet III., shows in elevation, looking
"towards the back of the machine, the parts for working the frame
laterally; Figure 4 is a cross section; and Figure 5 is a partial plan
"view of the same. The frame is composed of two parts A and B, the
"latter of which carries the cloth (which is distended upon it by pins or other-
wise), and slides vertically in V grooves made in the sides of the frame A.
"The double frame is supported by brackets a, a, which are attached to the
"frame A, and receive tho V edges of horizontal bars 6, 6, forming a railway
" for the frame in its lateral movements. Attached to the lower brackets a, a,
"is a rack c, provided on its upper edge with teeth, into which a pinion d gears.
"This pinion is mounted on a horizontal shaft C, which corresponds to the shaft
" M in the former arrangement, and is caused to rotate in a somewhat similar
"manner. In this case, however, the motion may be reversed at certain
periods of the operation in order to carry the cloth to the right or the left,
"and by a duplication of the parts which move the frame laterally, an upward
"and downward motion may be given to the cloth to suit the different kinds of
"work intended to be produced. The shaft C also carries two ratchet wheels
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e, e, (see Figures 3 and 5), the teeth of which are cut the reverse of cach
"other, and into these ratchet wheels two sets of clicks f, f*, respectively take,
"the former on the upper part of the wheel e, and the latter on the under
"part of the wheel e*. The sets of clicks are merely to ensure one of the
"set acting immediately on its wheel; 9 is a small frame which carries the
"clicks, one set at its upper and one at its lower end, and the lower clicks
fare weighted to keep them up to their work. This frame g is supported
"on fixed horizontal V guides, and is made to slide thereon by means of a
vibrating lever D keyed on to a stud h, which has its bearings in brackets
"attached to a pedestal E, rising from the bed plate of the machine. The
"lower end of this lever is forked, and embraces pin projecting from the
"frame g. The vibrations of the lever are effected by its upper end being
"held in contact with a cam F, mounted on the main driving shaft G of the
"machine, by means of a spring which presses it forward. When therefore
"the larger radius of the cam is brought to act upon the lever D, its lower
"end will draw the frame g inwards, and with it the clicks which will drive
"round the ratchet wheels e, e part of a revolution, the direction of motion
being determined according to which set of clicks is at that moment in
gear with its ratchet wheel; i is a lever also keyed to the stud h, and there-
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"fore moving simultaneously with the lever D. To the outer end of the
lever a pendant rod k is jointed, and to the lower end of. this rod a
"sliding piece l is loosely jointed, which is provided with a projecting pin or
"stud, and is intended to work up and down over a guide rod m. H is a
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pattern plate set up edgeways, and sliding horizontally over the bed of the
"machine. The use of this plate is to regulate the movements of the shaft C,
(which is the immediate cause of the movements of the double frame A, B,)
so that the needle may pierce the cloth under operation at equal distances
"apart, whatever may be the excentric motion of the cloth, and thus produce
"stitches of uniform length. The upper edge of the plate H has raised parts (the
"forms of which are suited to the movements of the cloth), which as the plato
"moves forward come in contact with the pin or stud on the sliding piece ?,
"and prevent it from falling to its lowest point, or answering to the movement
"of the lever D when the small radius of the cam F is presented to the upper
"end of that lever. It will be understood that, as the shaft C corresponds to
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the shaft M in the former arrangement, the ratchet wheels and clicks are
"intended to perform the operation of moving the cloth the proper distance
"between the periods for the inward movements of the needle, and therefore
"the number of teeth of the ratchet wheel driven forward by one movement
"of the clicks will determine the length of the stitch, as in the former instance.
Now, as the cloth receives (in this modified arrangement of the sewing
machine) a vertical as well as a lateral movement, it will be necessary to
check the speed of the revolution of these ratchet wheels. In order to
"effect this, the sliding piece connected, as before explained, with tho
"lever D, is employed; if, therefore, the pin or stud of the sliding piece is
"in contact with a raised part of the plate H, the lever D, when released
"from the pressure of the cam F, will be checked in the length of its
"vibration, and will thereby communicate a proportionately short stroke to
"the clicks f; the lateral speed of the cloth is thus reduced as desired.
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"I will now explain the mode of reversing the lateral motion of the
"frame A, B, which motion is intended to return the cloth to the action of
"the needle when one row of stitches is completed, instead of passing it
"again through the machine in the same direction, as was the case in the
"first-described machine. On the shaft G is a cam I, which as it rotates
"raises a jointed lever n, attached as a swivel to the top of the standard E.
"To this lever is jointed pendant rod o, which at its lower end, is formed
"into a click, and takes into a ratchet wheel p, mounted on a stud q, which
"turns in a bracket bolted to the bed plate. Keyed on to the same stud is
a tappet wheel r, which is embraced by two lugs projecting from a vortical

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"tube s, capable of sliding up and down on a rod t; when, therefore, the
"rod o is raised by the cam I, the ratchet is pulled round, and the tappet
wheel, which moves simultaneously therewith, raises or depresses the
" tube s.
This tube carries two arms, which raise or depress (as the caso
may be) the clicks f and f*, and thereby throw them out of contact with
"their respective ratchet wheels. It will now be clearly understood, that
"when the shaft C is required to revolve in the direction of the arrow
(Figure 3), the clicks f* must be in contact, but when the reverse action
" is to be given the lever n is raised by the cam I, which motion causes the
tappet wheel r to move round and depress the sliding tubo s, thus throwing
"the clikks f* out of contact with their wheel e*, and allowing the clicks f
"to fall into the teeth of the wheel e. By this change in the position of the
" clicks, the next vibration of the lever D will reverse the rotary motion of
"the shaft C, and then the pinion d in gear with the rack c will traverse
"the frame A, B, in the opposite direction, as desired. As this reversing
"motion is seldom required when compared with the number of revo-
"lutions made in a given time by the cam I, it is necessary to throw
"the jointed lever n out of contact with that cam, and only to allow
"of its being acted upon at certain periods according to the quality of
"work to be performed. On the side of the cam I (see the partial plan
"view Figure 6) is a projection or wiper, which on coming round makes
"the lever n turn on its swivel pin; it is thrown back again into the top of
"the cam I by means which I will now explain. The pattern plate II (which,
as before stated, is made so as to regulate the length of the stitches) is
"caused to move forward in one direction at a speed proportionate to that
"of the shaft C. At given distances along its lower edge notches are cut
(one of which is shewn at Figure 3), and into these notches the short arm
of a bell-crank lever u takes when they severally arrive over the end of that
lever. The upper or vertical arm of the lever u is passed through a slot in
"the lever n, and its lower arm has always a tendency to fly upwards by a
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spring (see Figure 4) beneath pressing upon it; when, therefore, the
"notch in the plate H, by coming directly over the end of the short arm,
"allows of that movement of the lever, it immediately takes the impulse of
"the spring, and throws the lever n again upon the cam I, the next rotation
"of which causes, as before, a change in the direction of revolution of the
" shaft."
"It will now be necessary to state the manner of actuating the plate II,
"which must have a motion in only one direction. The plate is pierced with
a row of holes, into which the pins of a wheel w take. The buss of this

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wheel turns freely on a vertical pin standing up from the bed plate; and
upon it is keyed a toothed wheel a, which is always in gear with one of a
"pair of pinions y mounted on the back end of the shaft C, and capable of
sliding thereon, a further edge being provided for that purpose. By means
"of an ordinary clutch-box movement the pinions are connected with the
sliding tubes, and as that tube by its rising and falling throws the clicks in
"and out of contact with their respective ratchet wheels, it will also by
"moving the crank lever Z on its fixed centre throw the pinions into gear
"with either one side or the other of the wheel x, by which means the
reverse motions of the shaft C will cause no change in the rotation of the
"wheel x, but will allow the plate H to proceed in one continuous course."
"It has been stated above that the frame which carries the cloth receives
66 an upward and downward as well as a horizontal motion; this is effected
by an arrangement of parts precisely similar to those just described. K (see
"Figure 2, Sheet II.,) is a shaft, which corresponds in all its motions with
"the shaft C, and being provided with a pinion d* moves the frame B up
"and down by that pinion, taking into a rack c, the lower end of which
"embraces the bottom bar of the frame B, but in such a manner as to allow
"of its sliding with the frame A either to the right or left; as required. It
"will be obvious that the only difference in the parts for working the two
"racks c and is that their situation will be the inverse of the other; á
further description will be therefore unnecessary."
60
66
..
"In attempting to produce a vertical line of stitches by the above-described
"arrangement, it will be necessary to stop the motion of the shaft C and all
"the parts depending thereon, and allow only the parts in connection with
"the shaft K to operate; when, therefore, the vertical line of stitches is
completed a fresh impulse must be given to the shaft C, or else the cloth
"would remain stationary, and the needle would continue to enter and retire
"from the cloth at the same point, thus producing no stitches. But in order
"-to prevent this, the pattern plates for the horizontal and vertical work aro
"connected together, and when one is stopped by an excess of the retarding
"effect produced by the raised parts on the pattern plate and the other parts
""dependent thereon, an impulse is given to it at a proper time by the other
pattern plate which is moving. In the detached view, Figure 7 is a vertical
"rod capable of a slight vibratory motion, and provided at its upper end with
a fork which embraces the pattern plate 2 for the vertical work; its lower
"end is furnished with a catch which is intended- to come under the lever i
"and preserve it in a raised position during the time that the pattern plate H
for the horizontal work is stationary. On either side of the plate 2 pro-
66

page_text: "
jections are formed at certain distances apart proper for determining the
dwell' of the plate II. When one of these projections on the right-hand
"side of the plate comes against the fork of the lever 1, the catch of
"that lever is thrown under the lever i, and as soon as a projection on the
" left-hand side of the plate presents itself to the fork, the catch is released.
"The lever i then falls, the lover D (Figure 3) is thrown in contact with
"the cam F, as before, and by continuing its vibrations it will again work the
"clicks f, which cause the rotation of the shaft C, and through the pinion d,
cause the lateral movements of the cloth frame to be resumed. By a
similar arrangement of parts (which must be inverted) the motion of the
plate I will assist in preserving the dwell' of the plate 2, and cause it
" to resume its action when required."
66
66
66
"
"In employing the double sliding frame in conjunction with the sowing
"machine first described, it will be necessary to change the mode of
actuating the needle as the frame would interfere with the free action
"of the parts connected therewith. At Figure 2, Sheet II., a modifi-
"cation suitable for this purpose is exhibited. On the shaft G is a
cam 3, provided with an excentric groove, shewn at Figure 2. This
groove receives a pin attached to an arm 4, working on a pivot fixed
in the main framing; to this arm the lower end of a pendant rod 5 is
"connected, its upper end being attached to one end of a rocking lever 6,
"which is supported at its centre. on a pin standing out from the main
16
framing; the other end of this lever also carries a pendant lever 7, provided
"at its lower end with a pin which slides in a slot in the short arm of a crank
"lever 8. The end of the long arm is furnished with a fork which rides over a
"stud in the side of a sliding piece which carries the needle 9. This sliding
piece works in V-guides 10, whereby a horizontal motion is given to the
needle instead of a curved motion as in the former arrangement."
65
"Having now described the several improvements in machinery for sewing
"or stitching various fabrics, as communicated to me by my foreign corre-
"spondent, I wish it to be understood that I do not confine myself to the
precise arrangements herein shewn, as various alterations of minor
importance might be effected without departing from the nature of the
"Invention; for instance, in some cases it may be found advisable to
"make the shuttle enter a loop in its backward as well as forward move-
"ment. In this case, the shuttle must be similarly shaped at both ends,
"and the bite of the short thread must bo at both ends of the race
"instead of one. I therefore claim the general arrangement of machinery
"above described and shown in Sheet I. of the Drawings, whereby I am

page_text: enabled to unite pieces of cloth or other fabrics together by sewing either
straight or curved seams, such sewing being much more speedily and
economically effected than by hand; but I do not claim the uso in a
machine of several needles and shuttles, nor do I claim any of the
mechanical parts separately, of which the machinery shown in the Drawings
is composed; I claim also the arrangement of parts for actuating the needle.
as shewn in Sheet II."
"In witness whereof, I, the said William Thomas, have hereunto set my
"hand and seal, this First day of June, in the year of our Lord One
"thousand eight hundred and forty-seven."
In witness whereof, I, the said William Thomas, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Twenty-second day of July, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-eight.

page_text: AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the Twenty-second day of July, in
the year of our Lord 1858, the aforesaid William Thomas came before our
said Lady the Queen in Her Chancery, and acknowledged the Disclaimer
aforesaid, and all and every thing therein contained and specified, in form
above written. And also the Disclaimer aforesaid was stamped according to
the tenor of the Statute made for that purpose.
Enrolled the Twenty-ninth day of July, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and fifty-eight.

page_text: bearing date at Westminster, the First day of December, One
thousand eight hundred and forty-six, and to which a Specification
has been duly inrolled.
(The words printed in italics are underlined in the original.)
DISCLAIMER proposed to be entered by the Patentee with the Clerk of
the Patents of England, according to the Statute in that case made and
provided.
WHEREAS, since the inrolment of my said Specification, it has been
brought to my knowledge, that previous to the granting of my said Letters
Patent, a machine had been described in the Specification of a Patent granted
to Mess" Fisher and Gibbons, on the Seventh day of December, One thousand
eight hundred and forty-four, wherein a series of needles were arranged to act
simultaneously, together with a like number of shuttles, for the purpose of
ornamenting fabrics; but I cannot ascertain that such machine was ever put
in practice, and I believe that it is incapable of being worked usefully. I
have, however, been advised that doubts may be raised and objections taken
to my Patent in consequence of such previous publication, for which reason I

page_text: wish to enter, and do hereby enter, the following Disclaimer to and as a con-
tiuation of the second claiming clause, near the end of the said Specification;
videlicet:-But I do not claim the use in a machine of several needles and
shuttles, nor do I claim any of the mechanical parts separately of which the
machinery shewn in the Drawings is composed.
And as that part of the Invention which consists of using a helical needle
has not come into public use, I for that reason wish to disclaim, and I do
hereby disclaim, all parts of my said Specification which describe and claim
the third part of the Invention.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Thomas, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Thirtieth day of April, in the year of our Lord One
thousand night hundred and fifty-five.
To the Clerk of the Patents of England.
This is to certify that William Thomas, of Cheapside, in the City of London,
Merchant, has applied to me for leave to enter with you the above-written
Disclaimer of a certain Invention, for which Letters Patent were granted to
him under the Great Seal, dated the 1st day of December 1846, and to which
the Specification was duly enrolled; and on considering the said application, I
directed him to advertize his said Disclaimer in the London Gazette, the
Times, and Morning Herald newspapers, and such advertisements were made.
And on hearing the opposition made to the said application, I granted leave
to the said William Thomas to file his said Disclaimer, pursuant to the
Statute 5th & 6th Wm. 4. c. 88., upon the condition that he would not take
any proceedings in law or equity for any infringements committed prior to
the 26th April 1855.

page_text: AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the Thirtieth day of April, in the
year of our Lord 1855, the aforesaid William Thomas came before our said
Lady the Queen in Her Chancery, and acknowledged the Disclaimer aforesaid,
and all and every thing therein contained and specified, in form above written.
And also the Disclaimer aforesaid was stamped according to the tenor of the
Statutes made for that purpose.
Enrolled the Ninth day of May, in the year of our Lord One thousand
eight hundred and fifty-five.

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, WILLIAM
THOMAS, of Cheapside, in the City of London, Merchant, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Royal Letters Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date the
First day of December, in the tenth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her
heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the said William Thomas, Her
especial license, full power, sole privilege and authority, that I, the said
William Thomas, my executors, administrators, and assigns, and such others
as I, the said William Thomas, my executors, administrators, or assigns,
should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all
times during the term of years therein mentioned, should and lawfully might
make, use, exercise, and vend, within England and Wales, and the Town
of Berwick-upon-Tweed, and in all Her Majesty's Colonies and Plantations
abroad, and in the Islands of Jersey, Guernsey, Alderney, Sark, and Man,
an Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS DE MACHINERY FOR SEWING OR STITCHING VARIOUS
FABRICS," being a communication from a foreigner residing abroad, in which
said Letters Patent is contained a proviso, obliging me, the said William
Thomas, by an instrument in writing under my hand and seal, particularly to
describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner
the same is to be performed, and to cause the same to be inrolled in Her
Majesty's High Court of Chancery within six calendar months next and
immediately after the date of the said in part recited Letters Patent, as in

page_text: and by the same, reference being thereunto had, will more fully and at large
appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said
William Thomas, do hereby declare that the nature of the said Invention, and
the manner in which the same is to be performed, is particularly described
and ascertained in and by the following description thereof, reference being
had to the Drawings hereunto annexed, and to the letters and figures marked
thereon (that is to say):-
J
This Invention consists in certain novel arrangements of machinery, whereby
fabrics of various textures may be sewn together in such a manner as to produce
a firm and lasting seam. The principal novelty of this Invention is the com-
bination of a vibrating needle with a shuttle, which shuttle, when the point of
the needle has entered the cloth or other fabric under operation, and formed a
loop of thread, passes through that loop, and leaves a thread on the face of the
cloth, by which means the needle, when it is withdrawn from the cloth, instead
of drawing back the thread with it, leaves a tightened loop on the opposite side
of the cloth to that at which it entered. The fabric then passing forward to
the distance of the length of the stitch required is again pierced with the
needle, and a stitch is in like manner produced.
Having thus given a general idea of the operation of the machine, I
will proceed to describe the various parts of one arrangement of sewing
machine in detail, reference being had to Sheet 1 of the accompanying
Drawings.
Figure 1 is a front elevation of the machine; and Figure 2 is a plan or top
view of the same; Figure 3 is an elevation of the right-hand side; and
Figure 4, a similar view of the left-hand side of the machine.
The several detached views also exhibited in the Drawing will be referred
to hereafter.
A, A, is the main framing of the machine; B is the driving shaft, mounted
in bearings on the top of the framing A; C is a fly-wheel keyed on to the
shaft B, and provided with a winch handle to set the machine in action, but
instead thereof it may be driven by a band and pulley in connection with any
first mover. A', A', are pendant parts of the framing, for supporting various
parts of the machine, which I will now explain:-D is a horizontal fixed axle,
having its bearings in the lower ends of the parts A1, A2, Figure 1, and upon
this axle an arm or needle carrier E vibrates freely. Fis a horizontal pin
fixed firmly to the part A², and intended to support a vibrating lever G, the
upper end of which is provided with a roller 1, and the lower end passes
through an eye or saddle piece 2, projecting from the lower end of the armi E.

page_text: The roller i works in a cam groove 8, cut in; a roller H, which is keyed on to
the shaft B. Attached to the bottom plate of the machine is a shuttle race
I, the peculiar construction of which will be seen in the detached views,
Figures 5, 6, and 7.
.
1..
"
Figure 5 represents the shuttle race in plan view; Figure 6 is a side view;
and Figure 7, a vertical section of the same..
...
The traverse of the shuttle is effected in the following manner :-K, K, are
two vibrating levers, situated one on either side of the machine, and mounted
on studs projecting from the framing.. The lower end of these levers are each
provided with a striking piece 4; 4, capable of sliding freely in the shuttle
race I, and their upper ends are bent inwards, so as to embrace a cam L,
fixed on the shaft B. By the rotation of this. shaft the largest radius of the
cam L comes alternately into contact with the upper ends of the levers K, K',
and forcing them outwards, gives their lower ends a movement in the opposite
direction, whereby each end of the .shuttle, alternately receiving a blow, it is
made to traverse backwards and-forwards in the shuttle race:
. I will now explain the mechanism for carrying the cloth or other fabric past
the needle after the stitch is produced. Beneath the bottom plate of the
machine is a horizontal shaft M, which turns in bearings. prepared to receive
it. This shaft carries a spiked or cogged wheel N, and also a ratchet wheel O.
The spiked wheel N is intended. to take into a steel rib or plate P, having
corresponding holes: made therein for that purpose, and by its rotation carry
the steel rib forward. From one edge of this rib or plate P (see Figure 8)
a series of pins project, for the purpose of holding the two thicknesses of cloth
which are intended to bo sewn together. When curved seams are required
to be made, the rib must be bent into a corresponding shape. It will, therefore,
be necessary, when uniting the various parts of a coat, to prepare a set of steel
ribs to suit the several forms of seam contained therein. The steel rib P is
placed in the machine with its flat face horizontal, and the cloth being pressed
upon its projecting pins, the edges of the cloth will stand perpendicular and
at right angles to the steel rib, as shewn at Figures 3 and 4. Rotary motion
is communicated to the wheel N in the following manner:-Into the teeth of
the ratchet wheel O, which is keyed on to the same shaft as the wheel N, a
pawle or ratchet 5 takes; this pawle 5 is. hinged..to a lever 6, 6, which is
supported by, and vibrates on, a stud projecting from a bracket 7, beneath the
bed plate of the framing. At about the middle of its length, the lever 6 has
a spring 8 attached to it, for the purpose of acting upon the square socket end
of the catch 5, and keeping the catch in the notches of the wheel O. The
upper end of the lever 6 is.bent inwards to meet the:face of a rotating cam 9,

page_text: keyed upon the driving shaft B, and by means of a spring 10, the end of which
embraces the pin which forms the connection between the catch 5 and the
lever 6, this lever has a tendency to press upon the cam 9, but is enabled to
recede when the increasing radius of the cam acts upon its upper end. As
the lever 6 is pressed back by the rotation of the cam 9, it draws with it the
catch 5 (the end of which has hold of a tooth of the ratchet wheel), and pulls
round the wheel O part of a revolution, whereby a corresponding movement
is given to the wheel N.
This motion, which occurs at the completion of every stitch, carries forward
the plate P, with the cloth upon it, just so far as will allow of the needle com-
mencing to form another loop at the required distance from the former one,
according to the coarseness or fineness of the work required to be produced.
When the larger radius or excentric portion of the cam 9 has passed the end
of the lever 6, that lever will, by the pressure of the spring 10, be made to
assume its former position, and carry the catch forward, to take into a notch
in the ratchet whoel as before. This part of the machine admits of adjustment
to suit coarse or fine work, and the mode of effecting such adjustment will be
seen by reference to Figures 2, 3, and 4. 11 is a lever, placed horizontally,
and supported on a pin standing up from the bed plato; and 12 is a screw
which works in an car attached to the bed plate. This screw 12 is so placed
that its end comes in contact with one end of the lever 11, the other end of
which lever presses against the lever 6, in an opposite direction to the spring
10. It will now be understood, that as the movement of the cloth through the
machine is produced by the catch 5, pawling a certain number of teeth of
the ratchet wheel, if the vibration of the lever G is reduced, a similar reduction
will be made in the "throw" of the catch 5. When, therefore, a finer quality
of sewing is required, the screw 12 is turned, so as to thrust forward the outer
ead of the horizontal lever 11, and make its other end bear back the lever 6,
by which means the throw of the catch 5 will be shortened; for coarser work
it will be only necessary to turn the screw 12 in the reverse direction. Qis a
bobbin capable of turning on a pin standing out from a bracket on the front
part of the framing A; this bobbin is provided with silk thread or other
material for sewing, and it is tightened by a friction band R, in order to keep
a proper tension on the thread when working. S is a lever, provided at its
lower end with a pin 13, which is intended to take up the loose thread when
the needle is performing its inward motion; this lever S is supported by a pin
at its upper end, passing through a tube which forms part of a rocking arm
14; this arm is screwed to a short horizontal rod 15, turning in a bearing 16
affixed to the main framing, and the other end of the rod 15 carries an arm 17,

page_text: which is always in contact with a cain T, attached to the roller H, and
revolving therewith. When, therefore, the arm 17 is pressed upon by the cam
T, the arm 14 will be made to raise the lever S; but in order that its pin 13
may take up the thread as the needle recedes, and let it slip when the needle
is entering the cloth, the following contrivance is adopted :-A spiral spring is
placed on the outer end of the pin which supports the lever S, one end of tho
spring being secured to that pin, and the other to the arm 14. By this means
the lever S has always a tendency to move laterally towards the needle, which
tendency is regulated by an excentric groove 18, formed on a plate U, (see
Figure 1), immediately behind the lever. In this groove a pin 19, projecting
from the back of the lever S, (at right angles to the pin 18,) is made to work,
by which means when the lever is drawn up (as before explained) the pin 18
will receive a forward as well as upward motion, and coming in front of the
needle will draw up the slackened thread. On that side of the lever G
nearest the lever S a wedge 20 is provided, which, moving forward with the
needle, will, at the time the cloth is pierced, come in contact with the lever S
(then in its elevated position) and thrust it aside, whereby the pin 18 is with-
drawn from the thread, and the lever S falls to its lowest position.. This
contrivance is not essential to the working of the machine, but by its action all
chance of the thread getting entangled, or of the needle piercing the thread
when coming forward to enter the cloth, is removed.
Having now referred to the principal parts of the machine, and described
their use, I will proceed to explain more fully their action, reserving the
detail of such portions of the mechanism as have not been mentioned for
the after part of my Specification, when the object of such parts will be better
understood.
In working this machine two threads are employed, one of which is wound
upon
the bobbin Q, and the other is carried in the shuttle. The thread from
the bobbin Q is brought down and passed through a hole in the end of the
lever G; it is then drawn under the stem of the needle, and passed up through
the eye thereof. The peculiar construction of this needle will bo best seen at
Figures 9, which represent it detached, in plan and edge views. The needle
is curved, so as to form an arc of a circle struck from the pin D, which is the
centre of its motion, and the eye is made near the point of the needle. From
the eye to the socket the needle is grooved, both on its upper and under face,
in order that the thread may lie therein, and be protected from unnecessary
friction when the needle pierces, and is withdrawn from the cloth. In the
front of the shuttle race (see Figure 6) is a horizontal slot 21; at 22 this slot
is widened to allow the needle to pass-through it readily, and through the slot

page_text: at the end of the thread on the bobbin of the shuttle is drawn. The cloth to
be sewn is attached to the steel rib P by means of the pins on its edge, and
the pieces are thereby held firmly together while the seam is being made.
The cloth, when so fixed on the steel rib is brought between the plate U and
the slotted side of the shuttle race, and the operator, holding the ends of the
two threads between his fingers, commences to work the machine. Rotary
motion is now given to the shaft B by means of the handle on the fly wheel,
and the several cams above mentioned are thereby set in motion. Supposing
the machine to be in the position shewn in the Drawings, (the needle having
just completed its thrust into the cloth,) and the shaft B to be revolving in the
direction of the arrow, the cam groove 3 in the roller H will allow the roller 1
to remain stationary until the concentric portion of the cam groove from a, a,
to b, h, (see Figure 10, which represents the groove as laid out flat,) has passed
the roller; the inclined or excentric part from b, b, to c, c, will then act upon
the roller 1, at the upper end of the lever G, and draw it inwards. This motion
will cause the lower end of the lever G to raise the arm E, (it being connected
thereto by the saddle or eye 2, as before stated,) and draw the needle, which is
attached to its lower end, out of the cloth. When the roller 1 is arrived at the
point c, c. of the groove 3, the needle will be at its farthest backward position,
and will remain stationary, the groove being then again concentric until an
excentric portion of the cam, the reverse of that before traversed by the roller 1,
presents itself at d, d; the upper end of the lever G will then be thrust out, and
its lower end moving in an opposite direction will drive the point of the needle
through the cloth under operation; a slight backward motion is given to the
needle, in order to slacken the thread which forms the loop, and the needle
remains stationary until the concentric portion of the cam groove 3 has passed
the roller 1, as before stated. While the needle is performing its forward and
backward movements, the cloth is held firmly against the sides of the shuttle
race I by the plate U, the pressure of which is regulated by a screw passing
through a slot in the framing, and abutting against the upper end of the plate
U. It is necessary now to explain the manner of retaining the thread which
the needle has carried through the cloth, so as to form a loop that will not be
drawn out by the return motion of the needle. This is effected, before stated,
by a shoot of thread laid in the loop, which is formed by the slackened thread
on the opposite face of the cloth to that at which the needle enters, and for the
purpose the shuttle is made to traverse the shuttle race and pass through the
loop. The cam I, which is keyed on the shaft B, and placed between the upper
ends of the arms K and K', is so formed, that when the needle has produced a
loop, its increasing radius will act upon one of the levers K, and cause it to

page_text: strike the shuttle. Now, supposing the needle to have just formed a loop, as
it will have done when the mechanism is in the position shewn in the Drawing,
the cam L will act upon the lever K', and cause the striker 4° to drive the
shuttle through the loop, and consequently leave a thread therein. This shoot
thread is held firmly, by means which I will presently explain, until the needle
has receded and drawn the loop tight to form a secure stitch. The shoot thread
is then let go, and by the time the needle has returned to commence a fresh
stitch the cam L will have travelled round to act upon the arm K, in a manner
similar to that of K', and drive the shuttle back to its former position in the
shuttle race, ready to be passed through a second loop as soon as formed by the
needle. In order to prevent the levers K, when in rapid action, from carrying
the strikers out of the shuttle race, a stop 23 is provided for each, as shewn at
Figure 1; but if the strikers are required to be removed, the stops may be readily
loosened and turned aside. The holding of the shoot thread while the needle
is drawing the loop (or stitch) tight is produced as follows:-On the shaft B
is a cam V, the excentric portion of which depresses an elastic treadle 24,
supported by a stud on the framing. Beneath this treadle, and attached thereto,
is a vertical rod 25, which rests at bottom on a short rocking lever 26, best
shewn in the detached view, Figure 5. This lever rocks on a stud 27, projecting
from a bracket on the bed plate of the machine; its outer or front end lies
under the shuttle race I, and a portion of the front side of that race is cut away
from the slot 21 downwards, to allow the end of the lever, which is bent up at
a right angle, to fill up that space, (as shown in Figures 1 and 6). When,
therefore, the thread proceeding from the side of the shuttle has been passed
through the loop by the propulsion of the arm K', the thread while sliding
along the slot will, on the elevation of the outer end of the lever 26, be held
tightly between it and the upper edge of the slot. The depression of the treadle
24 by the cam V will, through the rod 25, communicate a similar movement to
the inner end of the lever 26, and proportionably raise the outer end thereof;
but in order that not more than a sufficient pressure shall be put on the thread,
the elastic treadle is introduced as above stated.
I will now more particularly describe the shuttle race, and the parts in
immediate connection therewith, in order that the mode of tightening and
securing the stitch may be clearly understood. To the upper edge of the shuttle
race a spring e is attached, which carries two pins (see Figures 5 and 7);
these pins are intended to press upon a spring f, at the upper part of the
shuttle 9, , and put a small amount of friction on the bobbin as it passes under
them. That end of the shuttle which enters the loop is pointed, in order to
allow of its working more freely; the other end is squared off, as shewn in the

page_text: Drawing. When the shuttle has passed through the loop, a round pin h, attached
to the striker 4*, takes up the loop, and as the thread is tightened by the receding
of the needle, the pin gives way until the thread slips off it; the pin then returns
to its primary position. This is effected in the following way:-The pin h
forms a portion of a small lever rivetted to the striker, (see the detached views,
Figuro 11,) which, when it has driven tho shuttle forward, brings a flat part of
the lover opposite the end of a spring lever i, supported on a pin k, and
capable of adjustment by a screw 7. A portion of the side of the shuttlo race
is cut away, as shewn by dots at Figure 7, to allow this spring to act, and while
it presses on the flat part of the lever h, the round pin at its other end will,
for a time, be able to resist the pull of the thread until the tension is too great;
the pin will then tip forward and the thread will slide off, as before stated, and
close upon the shoot thread. Figure 12 shews the form of the cams mentioned
in the foregoing description, and their position on the shaft B, with respect to
each other.
In Sheet II., Figure 1 represents in front view an arrangement of doublo
frame, to bo used (in lieu of the steel rib P before mentioned) for supporting
the cloth or other substance under operation, and moving it about in any
required direction, so that various ornamental forms cr lines of stitches may
be produced as required; Figure 2 is a sectional elevation of the same.
Figure 3, Sheet III., shews in elevation, looking towards the back of the
machine, the parts for working the frame laterally; Figure 4 is a cross sec-
tion, and Figure 5 is a partial plan view of the same. The frame is composed
of two parts, A and B, the latter of which carries the cloth (which is distended
upon it by pins or otherwise), and slides vertically in V grooves made in the
sides of the frame A. The double framing is supported by brackets a, a,
which are attached to the frame A, and receive the V edges of horizontal
bars b, b, forming a railway for tho frame in its lateral movements. Attached
to the lower brackets a, a, is a rack c, provided on its upper edge with teeth,
into which a pinion d gears. This pinion is mounted on a horizontal shaft C,
which corresponds to the shaft M in the former arrangement, and is caused to
rotate in a somewhat similar manner. In this case, however, the motion may
be reversed at certain periods of the operation, in order to carry the cloth to
the right or the left, and by a duplication of the parts which move the
frame laterally, an upward and downward motion may be given to the cloth to
suit the different kinds of work intended to be produced. The shaft C also
carries two ratchet wheels e, e", (see Figures 3 and 5,) the teeth of which are
cut the reverse of each other, and into these ratchet wheels two sets of clicks
ff, respectively take, the former on the upper part of the wheel e, and the

page_text: latter on the under part of the wheel e. The sets of clicks are merely to
ensure one of the set acting immediately on its wheel. 9 is a small frame
which carries the clicks, one set at its upper and one at its lower end, and the
lower clicks are weighted to keep them up to their work. This frame g is
supported on fixed horizontal V guides, and is made to slide thereon by
means of a vibrating lever D keyed on to a stud h, which has its bearings in
brackets attached to a pedestal E, rising from the bed plate of the machine.
The lower end of this lever is forked, and embraces a pin projecting from the
frame 9. The vibrations of the lover are effected by its upper end being held
in contact with a cam F, mounted on the main driving shaft G of the machine,
by means of a spring, which presses it forward. When, therefore, the larger
radius of the cam is brought to act upon the lever D, its lower end will draw
the frame g inwards, and with it the clicks, which will drive round the ratchet
wheels e, e, part of a revolution, the direction of motion being determined
according to which set of clicks is at that moment in gear with its ratchet
wheel. iis a lever, also keyed to the stud h, and therefore moving simul-
taneously with the lever D. To the outer end of the lever i a pendant rod k
is jointed, and to the lower end of this rod a sliding piece l is loosely jointed.
which is provided with a projecting pin or stud, and is intended to work up
and down over a guide rod m. H is a pattern plate, set up. edgeways and
sliding horizontally over the bed of the machine; the use of this plate is to regu-
late the movements of the shaft C, (which is the immediate cause of the move-
ments of the double frame A, B,) so that the needle may pierce the cloth under
operation at equal distances apart, whatever may be the excentric motion of
the cloth, and thus produce stitches of uniform length. The upper edge of the
plate H has raised parts (the forms of which are suited to the movements
of the cloth), which as the plate moves forward come in contact with the pin
or stud on the sliding piece l, and prevent it from falling to its lowest point,
or answering to the movement of the lever D, when the small radius of the
cam F is presented to the upper end of that lever. It will be understood,
that as the shaft C corresponds to the shaft M in the former arrangement, the
ratchet wheels and clicks are intended to perform the operation of moving the
cloth the proper distance between the periods for the inward movements of
the needle, and therefore the number of teeth of the ratchet wheel driven
5 forward by one movement of the clicks will determine the length of the stitch,
as in the former instance. Now, as the cloth receives (in this modified
arrangement of the sewing machine) a vertical as well as a lateral movement,
it will be necessary to check the speed of the revolution of these ratchet
wheels; in order to effect this, the sliding piece t, connected, as before ex-

page_text: plained, with the lever D, is employed. If, therefore, the pin or stud of the
sliding piece is in contact with a raised part of the plate H, the lever D, when
released from the pressure of the cam F, will be checked in the length of its
vibration, and will thereby communicate a proportionately short stroke to the
clicks f; the lateral speed of the cloth is thus reduced as desired. I will now
explain the mode of reversing the lateral motion of the frame A, B, which
motion is intended to return the cloth to the action of the needle when one
row of stitches is completed, instead of passing it again through the machine
in the same direction, as was the case in the first-described machine. On the
shaft G is a cam I, which as it rotates raises a jointed lever n, attached as a
swivel to the top of the standard E; to this lever is jointed a pendant rod o,
which at its lower end is formed into a click, and takes into a ratchet wheel p,
mounted on a stud q, which turns in a bracket bolted to the bed plate. Keyed
on to the same stud is a tappet wheel r, which is embraced by two lugs pro-
jecting from a vertical tube s, capable of sliding up and down on a rod t.
When, therefore, the rod o is raised by the cam I, the ratchet is pulled round,
and the tappet wheel, which moves simultaneously therewith, raises or depresses
the tube s. This tube carries two arms, which raise or depress (as the case
may be) the clicks fand f*, and thereby throw them out of contact with their
respective ratchet wheels. It will now be clearly understood that when the
shaft C is required to revolve in the direction of the arrow (Figure 3), the
clicks must be in contact; but when the reverse action is to be given, the
Jever is raised by the cam I, which motion causes the tappet wheel 1 to
move round and depress the sliding tube s, thus throwing the clicks f* out of
contact with their wheel e*, and allowing the clicks f to fall into the teeth of
the wheel e. By this change in the position of the clicks, the next vibration
of the lever D will reverse the rotary motion of the shaft C, and then the
pinion d in gear with the rack c will traverse the frame A, B, in the opposite
direction, as desired. As this reversing motion is seldom required when com-
pared with the number of revolutions made in a given time by the cam 1, it
is necessary to throw the jointed lever n out of contact with that cam, and
only to allow of its being acted upon at certain periods, according to the quality
of work to be performed. On the side of the cam 1 (see the partial plan
view, l'igure 6,) is a projection or wiper, which on coming round makes the
lever n turn on its swivel pin; it is thrown back again into the top of the
cam I, by means which I will now explain. The pattern plate II (which, as
before stated, is made so as to regulate the length of the stitches,) is caused to
move forward in one direction at a speed proportionate to that of the shaft (.
At given distances along its lower edge notches are cut (one of which is shewn

page_text: at Figure 3), and into these notches the short arm of a bell-crank lever u
takes when they severally arrive over the end of that lever. The upper or
vertical arm of the lever u is passed through a slot in the lever n, and its
lower arm has always a tendency to fly upwards, by a spring v (see Figure 4)
beneath pressing upon it. When, therefore, the notch in the plate H, by
coming directly over the end of the short arm, allows of that movement of the
lever, it immediately takes the impulse of the spring, and throws the lever n
again upon the cam I, the next rotation of which causes, as before, a change
in the direction of revolution of the shaft.
It will now be necessary to state the manner of actuating the plate H, which
must have a motion in only one direction. The plate is pierced with a row
of holes, into which the pins of a wheel w take. The boss of this wheel turns
freely on a vertical pin standing up from the bed plate, and upon it is keyed
a toothed wheel, which is always in gear with one of a pair of pinions y,
mounted on the back end of the shaft C, and capable of sliding thereon, a
feather edge being provided for that purpose. By means of an ordinary
clutch-box movement, the pinions are connected with the sliding tube a, and as
that tube, by its rising and falling, throws the clicks in and out of contact with
their respective ratchet wheels, it will also, by moving the crank lever Z on its
fixed centre, throw the pinions into gear with either one side or the other of
the wheel, by which means the reverse motions of the shaft C will cause no
change in the rotation of the wheel x, but will allow the plate H to proceed
in one continuous course.
It has been stated above, that the frame which carries the cloth receives an
upward and downward, as well as a horizontal, motion; this is effected by an
arrangement of parts precisely similar to those just described. K (see Figure 2,
Sheet II.,) is a shaft, which corresponds in all its motions with the shaft C,
and being provided with a pinion d, moves the frame B up and down by that
pinion taking into a rack,c, the lower end of which embraces the bottom bar
of the frame B, but in such a manner as to allow of its sliding with the frame
A either to the right or left, as required. It will be obvious that the only
difference in the parts for working the two racks cand c* is, that their situa-
tion will be the inverse of the other; a further description will be therefore
unnecessary.
In attempting to produce a vertical lite of stitches by the above described
arrangement. it will be necessary to stop the motion of the shaft C, and all the
parts depending.thereon, and allow only the-parts in connection with the shaft
K to operate. When, therefore, the vertical line of- stitches is completerl, a
fresh.impulse must be given to the shaft C, or else the cloth would remain

page_text: stationary, and the neelle would continue to enter and retire from the cloth at
the same point, thus producing no stitches. But in order to prevent this, the
pattern plates for the horizontal and vertical work are connected together, and
when one is stopped by an excess of the retarding effect produced by the raised
parts on the pattern plate, and the other parts dependent thereon, an impulse
is given to it at a proper time by the other pattern plate which is moving. In
the detached view, Figure 7, 1 is a vertical rod, capable of a slight vibratory
motion, and provided at its upper end with a fork, which embraces the pattern
plate 2 for the vertical work; its lower end is furnished with a catch, which
is intended to come under the lever i, and preserve it in a raised position
during the time that the pattern plato II, for the horizontal work, is stationary.
On either side of the plate 2 projections are formed at certain distances apart,
proper for determining the "dwell" of the plate H. When one of these pro-
jections on the right-hand side of the plate comes against the fork of the lever
1, the catch of that lover is thrown under the lever i, and as soon as a projec-
tion on the left-hand side of the plate presents itself to the fork, the catch is
released. The lever i then falls, the lever D (Figure 3) is thrown in contact
with the cain F, as before; and by continuing its vibrations, it will again work
the clicks f, which cause the rotation of the shaft C, and, through the pinion d,
cause the lateral movements of the cloth frame to be resumed. By a similar
arrangements of parts (which must be inverted) the motion of the plate II
will assist in preserving the "dwell" of the plate 2, and cause it to resume its
action when required.
In employing the double sliding frame, in conjunction with the sewing
machine first described, it will be necessary to change the mode of actuating
the needle, as the frame would interfere with the free action of the parts con-
nected therewith. At Figure 2, Sheet II., a modification suitable for this
purpose is exhibited. On the shaft G is a cam 3, provided with an excentric
groove, shewn at Figure 2°. This groove receives a pin, attached to an arm 4,
working on a pivot fixed in the main framing; to this arm the lower end of a
pendant rod 5 is connected, its upper end being attached to one end of a rock-
ing lever 6, which is supported at its centre on a pin standing out from a main
framing; the other end of this lever also carries a pendant lever 7, provided
at its lower end with a pin, which slides in a slot in the short arm of a crank
lever 8. The end of the long arm is furnished with a fork, which rides over
a stud in the side of a sliding piece, which carries the needle 9. This sliding
piece works in V guides 10, whereby a horizontal motion is given to the needle,
instead of a curved motion, as in the former arrangement.
I will now describe the third part of the Invention, which consists in the

page_text: employment of a needle of a peculiar construction, whereby I am enabled,
when joining two edges together, to produce that kind of sewing which is fre-
quently used in glove work, and which covers the edges with the stitches.
The diagrams, Figures 8, (Sheet III.), shew the construction of the needle,
and the mode of using it. The needle 1 is formed of a helix of steel wire,
one end of which is formed with an eye, and the other is pointed, to enter the
work. This needle is drawn over a roller 2, and by means of another roller 3,
(in contact with the needle,) it is made to rotate, and as the cloth is passed
forward, the pointed end of the needle will enter it and worn itself through.
If a given length of thread is attached to the eye of the needle, the continued
rotation of the needle will draw the thread through the cloth. It is now
necessary, before making another stitch, to take up the slack thread, which
may be effected in various ways. The plan shewn at Figures 8 is as follows:-
Two rods, 4, 4, are made to present their ends to the periphery of the roller 2,
and immediately the eye of the needle has passed over them, they (being
beneath the thread which follows the eye) commence rising, and draw up the
slack thread until it comes in contact with a bar 5, when the tension is con-
tinued by that bar also. The height which these rods 4 rise must be regu-
lated according to the length of the thread in the needle; and as the thread
is shortened at every stitch, the vibration of these rods must be gradually
reduced in proportion, which movements may be readily effected by the appli-
cation of any of the compensation motions already employed.
Ilaving now described the several improvements in machinery for sewing or
stitching various fabrics, as communicated to me by my foreign correspondent,
I wish it to be understood that I do not confine myself to the precise arrange-
ments berein shewn, as various alterations of minor importance might be
effected without departing from the nature of the Invention; for instance, in
some cases it may be found advisable to make the shuttle enter a loop in its
backward as well as forward movement. In this case the shuttle must be
similarly shaped at both ends, and the bite of the shoot thread must be at both
ends of the race instead of one. I therefore claim,―
First, the general arrangement of machinery above described, and shown in
Sheet I. of the Drawings, whereby I am enabled to unite pieces of cloth or
other fabrics together, by sewing either straight or curved scams, such sewing
being much more speedily and economically effected than by hand.
Secondly, I claim the application of a shuttle in combination with a needle,
as shown in Sheet 1 of the Drawings, for forming and securing loops of thread
or other substance, for the purpose of producing stitches either to unite or

page_text: ornament various fabrics, whatever may be the means employed for working
such shuttle and needle when employed together.
Thirdly, I claim the construction and use of the sliding frame, shewn in
Sheet II. of the Drawings, whereby I am enabled to hold the cloth in such
a manner that it may be moved in any required direction to receive straight
and curved lines of stitches, and also stitches which will form various patterns
of embroidery.
Fourthly, I claim the mode of actuating the frame, as above described,
with reference to Sheet III., and also the arrangement of parts for actuating
the needle, as shewn in Sheet II.
Aud, lastly, I claim the construction and employment of a helical needle,
as above described.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Thomas, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this First day of June, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and forty-seven.
ornament various fabrics, whatever may be the means employed for working
such shuttle and needle when employed together.
Thirdly, I claim the construction and use of the sliding frame, shewn in
Sheet II. of the Drawings, whereby I am enabled to hold the cloth in such
a manner that it may be moved in any required direction to receive straight
and curved lines of stitches, and also stitches which will form various patterns
of embroidery.
Fourthly, I claim the mode of actuating the frame, as above described,
with reference to Sheet III., and also the arrangement of parts for actuating
the needle, as shewn in Sheet II.
And, lastly, I claim the construction and employment of a helical needle,
as above described.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Thomas, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this First day of June, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and forty-seven.
W. THOMAS. (LS.)
AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the same First day of June,
in the year above-mentioned, the aforesaid William Thomas came before
our Lady the Queen in Her Chancery, and acknowledged the Specification
aforesaid, and all and everything therein contained, in form above written.
And also the Specification aforesaid was stamped according to the tenor of
the Statute in that case made and provided.