IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOBBIN NET OR TWIST LACE. AND OTHER FABRICS MADE IN TWIST LACE MACHINES
Year: 1858

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Moritz Jacoby and Frederic Rainford Ensor, of
Nottingham, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE
OF BOBBIN NET OR TWIST LACE. AND OTHER FABRICS MADE IN TWIST LACE
MACHINES."
Sealed the 25th March 1859, and dated the 5th October 1858.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Moritz Jacoby and
Frederic Rainford Ensor at the Office of the Commissioners of
Patents, with their Petition, on the 5th October 1858.
We, MORITZ JACOBY and FREDERIC RAINFORD ENSOR, of Nottingham, do
hereby declare the nature of the Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANU.
FACTURE OF BOBBIN NET OR TWIST LACE, AND OTHER FABRICS MADE IN TWIST LACE
MACHINES," to be as follows:-
This Invention has for its object improvements in the manufacture of
bobbin net or twist lace and other fabrics made in twist lace machines; and
the Invention is applicable, first, in the manufacture of breadths of twist lace
and other fabrics with scolloped edges; and, secondly, the 'Invention is appli-
cable when making breadths of twist lace with purl edges. For these purposes
in order to make scolloped edges to breadths of fabrics made in twist lace
machines, the carriage threads which go to make the scollops are arranged to
work in such manner that they may, as the width of work decreases when
making scollops, be progressively moved towards the opposite selvages of the
breadth and work in the other parts of the work, or be otherwise employed;

page_text: and again as the width of the work increases in making a scollop, the carriage
threads which go to make the scollops are progressively brought into the
scollops, and so that when making the widest work the carriages are ranged
to act with their warp threads as a single tier of carriages regularly spaced
with their warp threads. Different descriptions of twist lace machines may be
used in carrying out our Invention, but we prefer to employ for this purpose
what are known as double tier fluted roller locker machines, but in doing so
we only use a single tier of carriages, that is, one carriage to each gate or
space between the combs; and in working the machines the carriages, when
the widest work is being produced, are arranged one in each gate or space
between the combs, but not equally near to the warp threads, and as the width
of the work decreases some of the gates or spaces will have no carriages
therein, others will each have a single carriage therein, and others will have
two carriages in each gate or space in a similar manner as if a double tier of
carriages was being used. When double tier machines are used, the front and
back combs may each be carried by one bar, that is to say, one bar for the
back combs and one bar for the front combs, or the front and back combs
may be each divided and carried by two bars, so that the parts of each comb
bar may shog or move independently of each other, as has before been the
case for accomplishing other objects.
In carrying out the second part of the Invention, a point bar is used for
giving a twist to the loops of the purl edges of the breadths of lace produced
in a twist lace machine; this point bar, when the points are in an upright or
inclined position and the points downwards, has the carriage threads, which are
to produce the purl loops lapped round the points, the carriage threads then
lap or twist with their warp threads, the points are moved to or beyond a
horizontal position and withdrawn from the loops, by which a twist is given to
the purl loops.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Moritz Jacoby and Frederic Rainford Ensor in the Great
Seal Patent Office on the 5th April 1859.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, MORITZ
JACOBY and FREDERIC RAINFORD ENSOB, of Nottingham, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Fifth day of October, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and fifty-eight, in the twenty-second year of Her reign,

page_text: did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto us, the said
the
Moritz Jacoby and Frederic Rainford Ensor, Her special licence that we,
said Moritz Jacoby and Frederic Rainford Ensor, our executors, administrators,
and assigns, or such others as we, the said Moritz Jacoby and Frederic Rain-
ford Ensor, our executors, administrators, and assigns, should atany time agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the
term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel
Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANU-
FACTURE OF BOBBIN NET OR TWIST LACE, AND OTHER FABRICS MADE IN TWIST LACE
MACHINES," upon the condition (amongst others) that we, the said Moritz.
Jacoby and Frederic Rainford Ensor, our executors or administrators, by an
instrument in writing under our or their hands and seals, or under the hand
and seal of one of us or them, should particularly describe and ascertain the
nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be per-
formed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within
six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters
Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that we, the said Moritz Jacoby and Frederic Rainford
Ensor, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascer-
tained in and by the following statement thereof, that is to say :-
This Invention has for its object improvements in the manufacture of
bobbin net or twist lace and other fabrics made in twist lace machines; and
the Invention is applicable, first, in the manufacture of breadths of twist lace
and other fabrics with scolloped edges; and, secondly, the Invention is appli-
cable when breaking breadths of twist lace with purl edges. For these purposes
in order to make scolloped edges to breadths of fabrics made in twist lace
machines, the carriage threads, which go to make the scollops, are arranged
to work in such manner that they may as the width of work decreases when
making scollops, be progressively moved towards the opposite selvages of the
breadth and work in the other parts of the work, or be otherwise employed;
and, again, as the width of the work increases in making a scollop, the carriage
threads which go to make the scollops are progressively brought into the
scollops, and so that when making the widest work the carriages are ranged
to act with their warp threads as a single tier of carriages regularly spaced
with their warp threads. Different descriptions of twist lace machines may be
used in carrying out our Invention, but we prefer for the manufacture of some
descripti ons of fabrics, to employ for this purpose what are known as double

page_text: tier fluted roller locker machines, but in doing so we only use a single tier of
carriages, that is, one carriage to each gate or space between the combs; and
in working the machines the carriages when the widest work is being
produced, are arranged one in each gate or space between the combs, but not
equally near to the warp threads, and as the width of the work decreases
some of the gates or spaces will have no carriages therein, others will each
have a single carriage therein, and others will have two carriages in each gate
or space, in a similar manner as if a double tier of carriages was being used.
When double tier machines are used the front and back combs may each be
carried by one bar, that is to say, one bar for the back combs and one bar for
the front combs, or the front and back combs may be each divided and carried
by two bars, so that the parts of each comb bar may shog or move indepen-
dently of each other, as has before been the case for accomplishing other
objects. The double tier fluted roller locker machines are most applicable to
the manufacture of such fabrics as do not contain thick threads, or threads
which have to be thrown a long distance at one time; when such threads are
employed we use another ordinary description of double tier machine, known
as a double locker, such as is partly shown in the annexed Drawings, and we
will proceed to describe the method of producing a fabric with scolloped edges
on this machine.
Figure 1 is a section of a portion of the machine, and Figure 2 is a front
view of the same; a, a¹, are the two comb bars; b, 6, are the carriages, of
which a number equivalent to a complete double tier are employed, but only
one-half of the carriages carry thread; c, c, are the pusher bars, and d, d, are
the lockers. The comb barais arranged in such a manner that it can be shogged
or moved a distance equal to one gate or space of the comb in either direction.
This is done by cams e, e, on the axis f, which is driven by spur gear from
the main axis g; the cams e, e, lift at intervals the levers h, h, which commu-
nicate the motion to the rods i, i; over these rods the rocking bar j is
mounted. This bar is capable of turning on a centrej", which is carried by
the frame; is a projection from the barj; this projection passes up between
the set screws a*, a*, on the comb bar a, so that the comb bar partakes of the
motions of the bar j. When the rods i are in the position shewn in the
Drawing, they rise and fall without acting on the barj, as they pass clear of
its ends, but when it is desired to shog the comb bar, the wires k, k, which lead
to the jacquard apparatus are drawn up, and the shoulders i* on the rods i
are brought in under the ends of the bar j, and then. one of the cams acts
first to shog the comb bar one gate while the bar is empty, and afterwards,
when the comb has received the carriages which are to be moved by it, the

page_text: other cam returns it to its former position. When the carriages have to be
moved in the other direction the comb bar is shogged by two other cams not
shown in the Drawing, but which are similar to the cams e, e, and act on the
comb bar by means of similar apparatus, only the first motion of the comb
produced by these cams is in the same direction as the return motion produced
by the other cams, therefore they cause the carriages to travel in the opposite
direction. The warp threads of the fabric are passed through warp bars, the
motions of which are governed by pattern surfaces in the ordinary manner,
and each of the warp threads which falls within the portion of the breadth of
the fabric occupied by the scollop is passed through a separate warp bar, and
they are each wound on a separate roller as they are taken up into the fabric at
a greater speed than the other warp threads; the warp bars are shown at 7.
The carriages b, bx, are arranged in the combs in the following manner:
such of the carriages as carry thread, and form the portion of the breadth of
the fabric into which the scollop does not enter, are placed in the back row or
row b; these carriages never traverse. The other thread-carrying carriages
namely those which form the portion of the breadth of the fabric occupied by
the scollop, are arranged in the front row b*, the back row being made up at
these places with empty carriages, and empty carriages are also employed to
make up the front row. In this position the carriages work when they are
producing the widest breadth of the fabric. When it is necessary to narrow
to produce the scollops, the warp threads are progressively gathered up by the
warp bars,and the carriages at the scolloped portions of the fabric are pro-
gressively carried behind the other carriages by the motions of the comb bara,
the first motion of this comb bar, as before mentioned, taking place when its
comb is empty, and the return motion taking place immediately it has received
the leading row of carriages, and before the other row enters it. When the
fabrics have been narrowed to the full depth of the scollops the motions ofthe
comb bar are reversed, and the carriages are spread out to their original
width, the warp bars also again spread out the warp threads to a similar
extent. The draw threads employed to connect the scolloped edge of one
breadth to the straight back of the next are caused by the warp bar through
which they pass to twist with the exterior carriage threads of the straight back
of each breadth and the exterior carriage thread of the scolloped edge of the
adjacent breadth, whatever maybethediscancebetween these threads, whether
it be but one gate of the comb, or the whole depth of the scollop...
From the description above given, the method of working with a double
tier fluted roller locker machine will readily be understood, as it is identical
with that already described, except that not empty carriages are required, as

page_text: machines of this construction are capable of working with imperfect rows of
carriages. The method of shogging the comb bars may be much varied, as,
for example, both of them may be moved in place of one only, or one or both
of them may be made in two parts, one capable of moving independently of
the other, all of which methods have before been employed for accomplishing
other objects
But the distinctive feature of this part of our Invention is the production of
scolloped edges to fabrics made in the twist lace machine by alternately
narrowing and widening the fabrics, the narrowing being effected or assisted
by causing the thread carrying-carriages at the scolloped portions of the
fabrics to be moved away from the scolloped edge of each breadth towards the
opposite selvage, so as to leave spaces of the comb between each breadth
without any such carriages, and other spaces of the comb with two thread-
carrying carriages in each gate, and the widening being effected or assisted by
bringing the carriages back to their original positions.
In carrying out the second part of the Invention, a point bar is used for
giving a twist to the loops of the purl edgings of the breadths of lace pro-
duced in a twist lace machine; this point bar, when the points are in an
upright or inclined position, and the noses or extremities of the points down-
ward has the carriage threads which are to produce the purl loops lapped
round the points, the carriage threads then lap or twist with their warp
threads, the points are moved to or beyond a horizontal position and with-
drawn from the loops, by which a twist is given to the purl loops. For this
purpose a bar is employed passing along the whole width of the machine, and
at the back thereof this bar carries a point opposite the edge of each breadth
where a purl has to be produced, and this bar has the following motions given
to it-When the purl is to be made the bar brings down its points, so that
their ends enter amongst the warp threads at such a height as just to allow
the carriages to pass under them; the bar is then shogged first in one
direction and then in the other, so as to lap the purling carriage thread round
it as if it were a warp thread, and the bar then partially revolves, so that its
points, which were previously inclined downwards, now become inclined
upwards, and the bar at the same time moves as if it were an ordinary
point bar so as to carry up the purl; lastly, the points are drawn back out of
the purl loops. These motions are to be repeated when the next row of
purls is to be made. This bar works under the ordinary point bar, and has
its motions communicated to it by cams, as is well understood by lace manu
facturers. The points on the purling bar are made to line with the ordinary
back points, by taking out a point of the ordinary back points wherever the

page_text: introduction of a purling point is required, and when the purled edge of the
fabric is scolloped, both point bars are to have an advancing and receding
motion from the jacquard or other pattern surface.
The Diagram, Figure 3, shows the manner in which it is preferred to lap
the lacing threads to secure the purl. The thread marked 1 is the carriage
thread which produces the purl; 2 is the warp on which it twists; 3 is a
lacing carriage thread; 4 is a lacing warp thread; and 5, a carriage thread in
the selvage of the next breadth. The threads are caused to lap round each
other in the order that the Diagram shows by the action of the warp bars on
the warp threads, and by the passing the carriages through and between them
in the usual manner; but in order that the threads may assume the positions
shown, it is necessary that the tension of each of them should be carefully
regulated. The carriage of the thread Number 1 should be arranged to
deliver very freely, whilst the warp thread 2 should be weighted rather
heavily that it may not be drawn out of its place; the carriages of the threads
Numbers 3 and 5 should be heavily sprung for the same reason, whilst the
lacing warp Number 4 is but lightly weighted.
The Diagram, Figure 4, is given to explain more clearly the method in
which the lapping is effected, and it shows the positions the threads would
assume if the three thread carriages were all strongly sprung, and the warp
threads both lightly weighted.
In witness whereof, we, the said Moritz Jacoby and Frederic Rainford
Ensor, have hereunto set our hands and seals, this Second day of
April, in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and
fifty-nine.
Witness,
HENRY DOBB.
MORITZ JACOBY.
(L.S.)
FREDERIC RAINFORD ENSOR. (L.s.)