An Improved Method of and Means for Making Individual Lasts and Patterns therefor.
Year: 1892

page_text: Date of Application, 22nd Nov., 1892-Accepted, 14th Jan., 1893
CUMI LMI DIECIFICATION.
'An Improved Method of and Means for Making Individual Lasts
and Patterns therefor.
We, GEORGE WICKFORD WILLEY, of Athol, in the County of Worcester,
and State of Massachusetts Gentleman and ALBERT BARROWS, of Brockton, in
the County of Plymouth, and said State, Gentleman both in the United States of
America, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement :-
This invention has for its object to enable individual lasts, or lasts conforming to
the peculiarities of individual feet, to be accurately and economically manufactured,
and to this end it consists in the improvements which we will now proceed. to
describe and claim.
Of the accompanying drawings, forming part of this Specification:
Figure 1 represents a longitudinal section of a human foot, the matrix of the
mold being of the exact form imparted to it by the foot.
Figure 2 represents a similar section, showing the matrix enlarged at certain
points, in accordance with my invention; also showing a cast in the matrix.
Figure 3 represents a section on line 3-3, Figure 2.
Figure 4 represents a section on line 4-4, Figure 2.
Figure 5 represents a view showing the manner of changing the form of the toe
portion of the cast or model formed in the matrix.
Figure 6 represents a longitudinal section of the pattern made as shown in
Figures 1 and 2, removed from the flask or matrix and enlarged at the instep.
Figure 7 represents a bottom view of said pattern.
Figure 8 represents a longitudinal section, showing a last made from the pattern
shown in Figures 6 and 7.
The same letters of reference indicate the same parts in all the figures.
In carrying out our invention, we make a matrix p p' of the foot for which a last
is to be made. Said, matrix is constructed by placing a quantity of plaster of paris
in a flask or box a, so formed as to support the part of the matrix which forms the
bottom portion of the foot, the heel and the rear portion of the ankle. The bottom
of the flask is curved to give the bottom portion of the matrix a suitable curvature,
substantially as shown, and particularly the upward curvature from the ball of the
foot to the toes, this curvature enabling the foot, when placed in the flask, to
assume a position with its forward portion curved upward. This curvature of the
bottom of the flask is important in forming the human foot or flexible pattern after
it is inserted in the flask, and thus giving the matrix such shape that the toe portion
will be curved upwardly, thus avoiding the flatness of the bottom of the foot which
would be caused if the bottom of the flask were flat. It will be seen that a flat-
bottomed last would be objectionable for various reasons, particularly because of
the liability of "stubbing" the toe of the boot made on such a last. The plaster
of paris is formed around the said portions of the foot while the latter is in the
flask a, and then powdered French chalk, or other suitable material, is placed upon
the. portion of the matrix already formed, to prevent the portion of the matrix
subsequently formed, and including the upper portion of the foot, from adhering to
the lower portion, the object being to produce a matrix in two separable sections.
To this end, the first-formed portion p of the matrix is trimmed away before it
hardens, along the line bc, and French chalk is placed upon the trimmed edges so
as, to cover the same. The flask is provided with a section a', hinged at a, and
having its lower edge formed to fit the line b-c. The section a' is now. brought
into the position shown in Figure 1, and the foot being. still in place, a filling of
P

page_text: plaster of paris is inserted in the section a' to form the upper portion pl of the
matrix. The section a¹ is provided with a presser or follower a³, which. is backed
by screws a, said presser and screws enabling the filling p to be compressed
against the foot and thus conform closely thereto, the pressure being applied before
the hardening of the filling. After the last-formed portion p¹ of the matrix, has
sufficiently set or hardened, the two parts p p' are separated along the line b—c,
the interposed French chalk permitting the free separation of said parts..
i
We then, by the use of a suitable cutting tool or tools, enlarge the matrix thus
formed, at various points, so that the cast made from the matrix will serve, as
hereinafter described, as a guide or former from which an operative last, adapted
to form a boot or shoe to fit the foot used in making the matrix, may be made.
One of the enlargements referred to is at the toe portion of the matrix, the same
being elongated, as indicated at e (Figures 2 and 4), the dotted line at one side of
the space marked e in said figures indicating the original contour of this portion
of the matrix, while the full line indicates the extent to which the matrix is
enlarged.
The matrix is also enlarged by cutting it away along the margin of the sole
portion, to form an angle at f(Figures 2 and 3), said angle extending around the
sole and defining the contour thereof, so that the sides of the last, instead of curving
inwardly and meeting the sole portion gradually, as in the human foot, meet the sole
at the angle f
The matrix may be enlarged at other points, to suit the peculiarities of the foot,
and to accommodate tender places or protuberances.
Before enlarging the matrix, as above described, we prefer to raise the upper
section of the flask, thus exposing the lower section, as shown in Figure 4, and
place a last or sole pattern having the desired form of toe on the bottom portion of
the matrix, and then mark around the toe portion of said last or pattern, the mark
thus made corresponding to the curved line a shown in Figure 4, and accurately
guiding the operator in cutting away the material to enlarge the matrix.
After the enlargement of the matrix has been completed, we bring its parts p.p¹
together, as shown in Figures 1 and 2, and then fill it with a composition which is
softened and rendered plastic by heat and becomes rigid when cooled and is free
from liability to expand or contract. A suitable composition for this purpose is
gutta-percha and saw-dust, although we do not limit ourselves to this particular
composition. The matrix is closely packed with this composition, the result being
a cast or form k, which is a fac-simile of the foot with the additions caused by the
enlargements of the matrix. We prefer to strengthen the cast or form by
embedding wooden stiffening strips s s' in the composition while it is being packed
in the matrix. After this cast or form has sufficiently hardened, it may be placed
in an ordinary lathe for turning irregular forms, and used as a pattern or former
by which to turn a last. In case it is desired to vary the form of the toe portion
of the cast or pattern, said portion may be heated until it is sufficiently plastic, and
then inserted in a supplemental toe forming mold t, formed to change the original
contour of the toe portion of the cast.
The sections a al may be secured together while the cast is formed, by fastening
devices such as hooks o and staples o' on the exterior of said sections, as shown in
dotted lines in Figure 1.
"
Our improved method and devices may be used in making a treeing foot or
frame, for use in treeing the upper of a boot or shoe, such treeing foot being
simply a last made as above indicated and divided so that the heel and forepart
portions can be separated to enable the foot to be readily inserted in a boot
or shoe.
If it is desirable to make a pattern of a foot which is deformed, so that the heel
is higher than the toe, the bottom of the flask may be heightened at the heel by
inserting a supplemental bottom piece.
The pattern formed as above described is, as already indicated, a fac-simile of
the foot in its natural condition. It is a well-known fact that a last should be

page_text: smaller (excepting in length) than the foot which is to wear the boot made on the
last, because the natural shape of the foot is such that, if the last were made an
exact counterpart of it, a boot made on the last would be uncomfortably loose and
ungainly in appearance. Hence, in making a last from the pattern, the lathe that
turns the last is adjusted so that the last will be smaller at all parts of its transverse
section than the former, the reduction being governed by a suitable code of rules
which need not be here stated. We find, however, that it is necessary to make the
reduction in the size of the last less at the instep portion than elsewhere, so that, in
the completed last, the instep will be higher or fuller in proportion to the rest of
the last than in the pattern. In other words, while the main portion of the last is
made say two sizes smaller than the pattern, the instep portion is made only one
size smaller or thereabouts. To this end, I build up or enlarge the instep portion of
the pattern k, by securing thereto a reinforcing piece k², as shown in Figure 6, said
piece raising the height of the instep to such an extent that the instep of the
last w (Figure 8) turned from the pattern will be proportionately higher than the
instep of the pattern as originally made without the enlargement k². This will be
clearly understood by reference to Figure 8, in which the dotted lines outside of
the last w show the original outlines of the pattern k without the enlargement k², the
instep portion of the pattern being proportionately lower than the instep portion of
the last, although the instep portion of the last is actually lower than the instep
portion of the pattern.
It will be seen that, by enlarging the instep of the pattern, we are enabled to
produce the desired fullness of instep in the last without varying the depth of cut
of the cutting tool which turns the last, said tool cutting to the same depth on all
portions of the last, as indicated by the dotted lines in Figures 6 and 7, said dotted
lines indicating the margin of the last and showing the relative proportions of the
pattern and last.
The enlargement or reinforcement k² may be made of the same material as the
body of the pattern, or of any other suitable material.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we
claim is:
1st. The improved method hereinbefore described of making individual lasts for
boots and shoes, the same consisting in first making a divided matrix conforming to
the shape of the foot and composed of separable sections, enlarging the matrix at
the toe and at the margin of the sole to form an angle defining the contour of the
sole, and filling the matrix with a composition which, when hardened, constitutes a
cast or pattern which is a fac-simile of the foot with the additions caused by the
enlargement of the matrix, as set forth.
2nd. The improved method herein before described of making individual lasts for
boots and shoes, the same consisting in first making a divided matrix conforming
to the shape of the foot and composed of separable sections, enlarging the matrix
at the toe and at the margin of the sole to form an angle defining the contour of the
sole, filling the matrix with a composition which, when hardened, constitutes a cast
or pattern which is a fac-simile of the foot with the additions caused by the enlarge-
ment of the matrix, and finally softening the toe portion of the cast and reforming
the same by inserting it in a supplemental mold or matrix, as set forth.
3rd. The improved method herein before described of making individual lasts for
boots and shoes, the same consisting in making a pattern which is longer than
the foot but otherwise is substantially a fac-simile thereof, then building up
or enlarging the instep portion of the pattern, and then turning from said
pattern a last which in cross section is a reduced fac-simile of the pattern, as
set forth.
4th. The improved foot matrix flask, consisting of a bottom section, and a top
section separable from the bottom section, said flask having sides and being thereby
formed to contain a mass of material surrounding the foot and provided with an

page_text: +
unyielding curved bottom or pattern former adapted to impart the desired curvature
to the bottom of a human foot and to the material interposed between said curved
bottom and the bottom of the foot, whereby said flask is adapted to retain the pattern
.so formed in proper position for casting, substantially as and for the purpose set
forth.
5th., In a foot matrix flask, the combination of the bottom section, the top section
hinged to the bottom section, the presser or follower in the top section, and means
for operating said presser, as set forth.
Dated this 29th day of October 1892.
GEORGE WICKFORD WILLEY.
ALBERT BARROWS.
Haseltine, Lake & Co.,
45, Southampton Buildings, London, Agents for the Applicants.