IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ELASTIC WEB OR CLOTH
Year: 1879

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to James Dean, of Victoria Works, Derby, in the County of
Derby, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ELASTIC
WEB OR CLOTH."
Sealed the 23rd December 1879, in pursuance of an Order of the Lord Chancellor,
and dated the 14th June 1879.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said James Dean at the Office of
the Commissioners of Patents on the 14th June 1879.
JAMES DEAN, of Victoria Works, Derby, in the County of Derby.
MENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ELASTIC WEB OR CLOTH."
"IMPROVE-
My Invention has reference to the weaving of elastic web or cloth of the class
used for side springs of boots and other purposes, and in which the elasticity of the
fabric depends upon warps or strands of india rubber woven in a state of tension
with weft threads connected by a binder, chain, or warp intersecting or crossing
such weft threads, and by pile or terry chains or warps, which, as such web or cloth
is usually made, are so arranged that one pile or terry chain passes to the back of
the fabric between wefts over which another pile or terry chain floats; and when
the fabric leaves the cloth beam of the loom it contracts in length more or less,
according to the stretch or amount of tension applied to the india-rubber strands
during the weaving.
Now, I take advantage of this contraction of the fabric to produce a looped or
terry velvet surface upon the face of the web or cloth, for which purpose, in weaving
elastic web or cloth, according to my Invention, I cause the whole of the pile or
terry chain or chains to float at the front of the fabric, over three or other number
of wefts, then to pass to the back of the fabric over the back or outer part of one
weft thread, returning to the front of the fabric and floating over the three (or other
number of) wefts adjoining those it has last previously floated over, and so on, so
that the pile or terry chain or chains floating over each three or other number of
wefts, situate at the front of the fabric between two crossings, to the back of the
fabric, shall, on the contraction of the fabric by the elastic warps, be gathered up
into the form of a line of loops, making a rib across the fabric or cloth at right

page_text: angles to the warp threads, the weft threads in which line of loops or rib are not
intersected or divided from one another by a second pile, or terry chain, breaking
joint with the first, as heretofore, on the same face of the web or cloth.
Loops or ribs, as described, may be formed across the whole width of the fabric,
as in Brussels carpet, or only borders or stripes may be formed with such loops
or ribs.
Patterns or figures may also be formed of loops or ribs as described, and in
addition to the pile or terry chain floating over several weft threads at the front of
the fabric a pile or terry chain may be similarly applied over the weft threads at
the back of the fabric, and in this way a fabric may be forined with loops or ribs at
its back like those at its front, or the fabric can be made with such loops or ribs on
both sides of the same fabric.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by the
65
said James Dean in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 23rd December 1879.
JAMES DEAN, of Victoria Works, Derby, in the County of Derby. IMPROVE-
MENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ELASTIC WEB OR CLOTH."
My Invention has reference to the weaving of elastic web or cloth of the class
used for side springs of boots and other purposes, and in which the elasticity of the
fabric depends upon warps or strands of india-rubber woven in a state of tension
with weft threads connected by a binder, chain, or warp, intersecting or crossing
such weft threads, and by pile or terry chains or warps, which, as such web or cloth
is usually made, are so arranged that one pile or terry chain passes to the back of
the fabric between wefts over which another pile or terry chain floats, and when the
fabric leaves the cloth beam of the loom it contracts in length more or less, according
to the stretch or amount of tension applied to the india-rubber strands during the
weaving.
Now, I take advantage of this contraction of the fabric to produce a looped or
terry velvet surface, or ribbed or corded appearance, upon the face of the web or
cloth, for which purpose, in weaving elastic web or cloth, according to my Invention,
I cause the whole of the pile or terry chain or chains to float at the front of the
fabric over three or other number of wefts, then to pass to the back of the fabric
over the back or outer part of one weft thread, returning to the front of the fabric
and floating over the three (or other number of) wefts adjoining those it has last
previously floated over, and so on, so that the pile or terry chain or chains floating
over each three, or other number of wefts, situate at the front of the fabric between
two crossings, to the back of the fabric, shall, on the contraction of the fabric by the
elastic warps, be gathered up into the form of a line of loops, making a rib across
the fabric or cloth at right angles to the warp threads, the weft threads in which
line of loops or rib are not intersected or divided from one another by a second pile
or torry chain broaking joint with the first, as heretofore, on the same face of the
web or cloth.
Loops or ribs, as described, may be formed across the whole width of the fabric,
as in Brussels carpet, or only borders or stripes may be formed with such loops or
ribs. Patterns or figures may also be formed of loops or ribs as described, and in
addition to the pile or terry chain floating over several weft threads at the front of
the fabric, a pile or terry chain may be similarly applied over the weft threads at
the back of the fabric; and in this way a fabric may be formed with loops or ribs
at its back like those at its front, or the fabric can be made with such loops or ribs
on both sides of the same fabric.
And in order that my Invention may be fully and clearly understood, I have
shewn in the accompanying Drawings diagram views of elastic fabrics formed in
the manner above described.
Fig. 1 represents to an enlarged scale a longitudinal section of the elastic web or
fabric with the ribbed or corded appearance on the face or front side thereof only,
and with an ordinary back.
Fig. 2 shews to a like scale a longitudinal section of the web or fabric with the
ribbed or corded appearance on the reverse or back side only thereof, and with tho
ordinary appearance on the face or front side.
Fig. 3 represents to a like scale a longitudinal section of the elastic web or fabric,
with the ribbed or corded appearance on both sides of the web or fabric.
Fig. 4 shews to a like scale a longitudinal section of the web or fabric with the
ribbed or corded appearance on both sides, but so arranged that the face or front
and back may be made with two distinct and entirely different colours or materials,
such as wool, silk, cotton, or schappe, thereby producing, first, a rib or cord of one
colour or material, and then a rib or cord of another colour or material, and so on
alternately.

page_text: Fig. 5 shews to a like scale a longitudinal section of the elastic web or fabric with
the ribbed or corded appearance on both sides thereof, but made in a double shuttle
loom, the face warps or chains passing to the back and underneath the top and
bottom shutes for one shute, and then rising above the two shutes for three shutes,
and so on; while the back warps or chains remain underneath the two shutes or
wefts for three shutes, and then ascend to the top of the fabric over the top and
mottom shute for one shute, and then descend to the back for other three shutes,
and so on.
Fig. 6 shews to a like scale a longitudinal section of the elastic web or fabric with
a ribbed or corded face and an ordinary back, made in a double shuttle loom, the face
warps or chains passing right through and underneath the top and bottom shutes at
every fourth shute or weft.
Fig. 7 shews to a like scale a longitudinal section of the elastic web or fabric with
an ordinary face and ribbed or corded back, the face and back warps not either of
them passing beyond the rubber, but both bound in simply by their respective top
or bottom shutes or wefts.
Fig. 8 shews to a like scale a longitudinal section of the elastic web or fabric with
the ribbed or corded appearance on both sides thereof, but so arranged that the face
or front and back may be made with two distinct and entirely different colours or
materials, as in Fig. 4, but made in a double shuttle loom.
Fig. 9 shews to a like scale a longitudinal section of the elastic web or fabric with
a ribbed or corded face and a trail back, made in a double shuttle loom.
Fig. 10 shews to a like scale a longitudinal section of the elastic web or fabric
with a trail face and a ribbed or corded back.
Fig. 11 shews to a like scale a longitudinal section of the elastic web or fabric
with a ribbed or corded face and trail back, but made in a single shuttle loom.
Fig. 12 shews to a like scale a longitudinal section of the elastic web or fabric
with a plain face and a ribbed or corded terry back.
Referring to Fig. 1, it will be seen that the whole of the face warps or chains float
or remain above three shutes or weft threads, and then descend and pass underneath
one shute or weft thread, and then rise again and float over other three shutes or
weft threads, and so on, thus producing the ribbed or corded appearance at right
angles to the length of the warps or chains, as described. The binders change at
every shute or weft thread, as in ordinary weaving, and are mocked or worked
contrariwise to the rubber warp. The binders are, however, so arranged that they
pass over the shute or weft threads, when the face or front warps or chains pass
under.
In Fig. 2 the whole of the back warps or chains are caused to remain underneath
the shute or weft thread for three shutes or weft threads, and then rise up and
remain up over one shute or weft thread, and then descend and remain under other
three shutes or weft threads, and so on alternately, as in Fig. 1, the face warps or
chains working in the ordinary way exactly the same as in the back of Fig. 1.
In Fig. 3 the whole of the face warps or chains float over three shutes or wefts,
and then descend underneath one shute or weft exactly as in Fig. 1, while the back
warps or chains also remain underneath three shutes or wefts, and then rise to the
face of the fabric over one shute or weft, exactly as in Fig. 2. The back warps or
chains, however, rise after three shutes or wefts on the first shute or weft of the face
warps, so that the whole of the face and back warps or chains ascend together at
one and the same time, the back warps then descending the next shute or weft, thus
causing a ribbed or corded appearance to be produced on both sides of the fabric.
In Fig. 4 the whole of the face warps or chains, and also the back warps or chains,
float over three shutes alternately, the back warps exchanging places with the face
warps after the face warps have floated over three shutes or wefts, then descending
to the back and remaining there for three shutes, and then returning or ascending
again to the face for other three shutes, the back always changing at one and the
same time as the face warps or chains, so that the back and front continue always
to mock each other; thus if the face warps or chains were black, and the back

page_text: warps or chains were white, there would be produced a ribbed or corded material of
alternate black and white ribs or cords.
In Fig.
the whole of the face warps or chains float over three shutes or wefts,
and then descend underneath the top and bottom shutes for one shute or weft, and
then ascend to the face or front of the fabric, and so on, while the back warps or
chains remain at the back or bottom of the fabric for three shutes or wefts, and then
pass to the top or face side of the fabric over the top and botton shutes for one shute
or weft, and then descend again to the back of the fabric for other three shutes, and
so on.
In Fig. 6 the face warps or chains float over the shutes for three shutes or wefts,
and then pass through to the back of the fabric underneath the top and bottom
shutes for one shute, and then return to the face for other three shutes, and so on,
while the back is made in the ordinary manner, as in Fig. 1.
In Fig. 7 the back warps or chains remain underneath the fabric for three shutes
and then pass through to the centre of the fabric, over the bottom shute or weft
only, for one shute, and then returns to the back of the fabric for other three shutes,
and so on, while the face or front warps or chains work in the ordinary manner, as
in Fig. 2.
In Fig. 8 the whole of the face warps or chains, and also the back warps, float
over three shutes or wefts alternately, exactly as in Fig. 4, but this fabric is made
in a double shuttle loom.
In Fig. 9 the face warps or chains work as in Fig. 1, while the back warps remain
underneath the fabric for three shutes and then rise to the centre one shute, and
then return to the back for other three shutes, and so on, but only one of the four
chains or warps moves at one time; thus No. 1 rises one shute and returns for three
shutes or wefts, and then No. 2 does likewise, and so on with numbers 3 and 4,
thereby producing a trail or twilled back, the binders crossing each other each shute
or weft, and the rubber remaining still in the centre between the top and bottom
shutes, as in the other double shuttle web.
In Fig. 10 the fabric is made in all respects the reverse way to that described
with reference to Fig. 9.
In Fig. 11 the face warps or chains produce the ribbed or corded face as in Fig. 1,
while the back warps or chains are made to produce a trail or twilled back, the same
as that in Fig. 9, but it is made in a single shuttle loom.
In Fig. 12 the fabric is made with a plain face of silk or other material, but with
a ribbed or corded back, like that in Fig. 7.
In the whole of the above Figures the thick lines represent the face or front side
warps or chains.
The thick dotted lines represent the reverse or back warps or chains.
The fine dotted lines represent the binder warps or chains.
The thin lines represent the india-rubber warps or chains.
The small circles represent the shutes or weft threads.
The whole of the diagram views of the thick squares marked Fig. 1 A to
Fig. 12 A represent the order in which the respective Figures (Figs. 1 to 12) are
drawn through the harness shaft; the spaces between the horizontal lines represent
the harness shaft, and the various dots and marks within the squares indicate the
order in which the different warps are drawn through them.
Although in the fabrics shewn in the diagrams the number of shutes or wefts the
warps or chains float over is three, I do not confine myself to that particular number,
as I vary the number from two shutes or wefts upwards, according to the material
used or the degree of fineness of texture that may be required in the rib or cord.
The number of harness shafts will vary from one, two, three, and upwards, according
to the number of threads required in each dent, but whatever the number of harness
shafts may be, if more than one, they are all made to rise and fall together as if there
was only one, by so arranging the mechanism of the loom as to effect this, in order
to produce a ribbed or corded appearance, as before described.
The elastic or rubber warps are, as is usual, woven in a state of tension, so that

page_text: when the fabric has been woven and allowed to contract the long floats of warps, or
both the back and face of the fabric, gather or shrink up, and form, as it were, a
series of ribs or corded loops at right angles to the length of the fabric, whilst the
binder warps or chains change their position at each and every shute or weft, and
being weighted sufficiently, thus knit or bind the whole series of warps and wefts
into one compact fabric.
Elastic web or fabric made as hereinabove described will be found much more
durable than such as is now usually made. Moreover, as the whole of the warps or
chains for producing the ribbed or corded appearance rise and fall together, there is
comparatively little friction upon such warps or chains, consequently the weaver is
enabled to produce a larger quantity of elastic web in a given time than is the case
when making elastic web in the ordinary way, where the friction is considerable.
By my Invention also the elastic or rubber threads are securely retained in their
proper places in the web or fabric, thus obviating the serious defect in ordinary
elastic web of slipping of the elastic or rubber threads into the interior of the web,
which with ordinary web is liable to occur whenever such web is cut into gussets.
It is also to be remarked that in addition to the patterns shewn in the
Drawings by way of illustration many others can be produced according to my
Invention, and such as could not be produced in the ordinary or usual ways of
making elastic web. Thus stripes may be made upon either the back or face, or
upon both sides of the fabric together, as, for instance, the example shewn in Fig. 1
may be thus varied on the back or ordinary side by stripes of any number and of
any given width by so drawing the threads through the harness as to form a series
of ribs similar to those produced upon the face, and in varied colours or materials.
Various patterns of stripes may also be formed upon the face side of the web by
suitably drawing in any required number of threads through the harness in the
ordinary way upon the ribbed face of the fabric, and also in various colours and
materials, and this method of producing various different patterns applies equally to
each of the other Figures described.
Having thus described the nature of my said Invention, and the manner of
carrying the same into practical effect, I hereby declare that what I consider to be
novel and original, and therefore claim as secured to me under the Letters Patent
herein before in part recited is, the manufacture of elastic web or cloth with a looped
or terry velvet surface, or ribbed or corded pile running crosswise or at right angles
to the warps or length of the fabric, and at either the front or back or both sides
or faces of the fabric, substantially as herein before described.
In witness whereof, I, the said James Dean, have hereunto set my hand and
seal, this Seventeenth day of December, in the year of our Lord One thousand
eight hundred and seventy nine.