Improvements in the Manufacture of Figured Fabrics.
Year: 1889

page_text: Date of Application, 4th Apr., 1889
Complete Specification Left, 24th Dec., 1889-Accepted, 25th Jan., 1890
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Figured Fabrics.
We THOMAS TAYLOR of the firm of Barlow and Jones Limited of Bolton in the
County of Lancaster Manufacturers and JACOB WARBURTON of the same place Designer
do hereby declare the nature of this Invention to be as follows
:-
Our improved cloth is chiefly applicable for toilet quilts toilet covers antimacassars
mats and other similar articles.
In weaving our improved cloth we employ a loom of the ordinary construction
and we use two yarn beams. The yarn from one beam (termed stitching yarn) is
controlled by means of a Jacquard machine for the purpose of creating the figure
and for the purpose of making the ground can be controlled either by the Jacquard
machine or by cumber boards, the latter by preference. The yarn from the other
beam (termed face yarn) is drawn into and controlled by healds. By preference
we use twice as many stitching ends as face ends but could use either the same
We
number of each or use more or less stitching yarn in proportion to face yarn.
also use two shuttles one carrying a fine weft and the other carrying a coarse
weft.
The progressive motions of the warps and wefts are as follows:-
1st Pick. The face yarn is to be formed tabby that is one end up and one end
down and at the same time the stitching yarn raised by the Jacquard machine to
create figure; this is a pick of coarse weft.
2nd Pick. This pick is put into the same shed as the first pick and is also a pick
of coarse weft.
3rd Pick. To make the shed for the third pick the face yarn remains as in
picks 1 and 2 and the stitching yarn only is changed to tabby; this is a pick of
fine weft.
4th Pick. Both the stitching yarn and the face yarn is changed to the reverse
tabby of the previous pick. This also is a pick of fine weft and completes the
round and these operations being continued in the order named will produce our
improved cloth.
It will be seen that the stitching yarn works thus :-The first pick of weft,
figure the second pick, figure; the third pick, tabby; the fourth pick, reverse
tabby.
i
The face yarn works thus :-The first pick, tabby; the second and third picks,
the same tabby as the first; and the fourth pick, the reverse tabby to the other
three.
A modification in the manufacture of our improved cloth may be made by working
the face yarn eight picks to the round thus:-the first second and third picks, tabby
in one shed, the fourth fifth sixth and seventh picks, reverse tabby, and the eighth
pick, the same tabby as the first three picks.
Other modifications might be made with three picks to the round, or with six
picks to the round. In the first case by using one coarse pick in place of the first
and second picks of the four to the round pattern and in the second case by using
one coarse pick in place of the first and second picks and one coarse pick in place of
the fifth and sixth picks of the eight to the round pattern; or the six picks to the
round pattern might be further modified by weaving the two coarse picks together
and the four fine picks together still putting three picks in each face shed and changing
the shed between the two coarse picks and in the middle of the four fine picks, that is
to say one coarse pick and two fine picks are put into each face shed.

page_text: All the modifications given above however would produce similar cloth to that
woven by the four pick to the round pattern first described.
11000
H. B. BARLOW,
Agent.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Figured Fabrics.
We, THOMAS TAYLOR, of the firm of Barlow and Jones Limited, of Bolton in the
County of Lancaster, Manufacturers and JACOB WARBURTON, of the same place,
Designer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement :-
Our improved cloth is chiefly applicable for toilet quilts toilet covers antimacassars
mats and other similar articles.
In weaving our improved cloth we employ a loom of the ordinary construction
and we use two yarn beams. The yarn from one beam (termed stitching yarn) is
controlled by means of a Jacquard machine for the purpose of creating the figure,
and for the purpose of making the ground can be controlled either by the Jacquard
machine or by. cumber boards, the latter by preference. The yarn from the other
beam (termed face yarn) is drawn into and controlled by healds. By preference
we use twice as many stitching ends as face ends but could use either the same
number of each or use more or less stitching yarn in proportion to face yarn. We
also use two shuttles one carrying a fine weft and the other carrying a coarse
weft.
The progressive motions of the warps and wefts are as follows;
1st Pick. The face yarn is to be formed tabby that is one end up and one end
down and at the same time the stitching yarn is raised by the Jacquard machine to
create figure; this is a pick of coarse weft.
2nd Pick. This pick is put into the same shed as the first pick and is also a pick
of coarse weft.
3rd Pick. To make the shed for the third pick the face yarn remains as in
picks 1 and 2 and the stitching yarn only is changed to tabby; this is a pick of
fine weft.
4th Pick. Both the stitching yarn and the face yarn is changed to the reverse
tabby of the previous pick. This also is a pick of fine weft and completes. the
round and these operations being continued in the order named will produce our
improved cloth.
It will be seen that the stitching yarn works thus: - The first pick of weft,
figure; the second pick, figure; the third pick, tabby; the fourth pick, reverso
tabby.
The face yarn work thus :-The first pick, tabby; the second and third picks,
the same tabby as the first; and the fourth pick, the reverse tabby to the other
three.
Figure 1 of the accompanying Sheet of Diagrams shows in longitudinal section
the structure of our improved fabric made with four picks to the round as above
described.
In this Figure and in each of the remaining views on this Sheet which illustrate
modifications of our improved fabric the back warp is represented by the strong lines b
and c, the face warp by the fine lines a and d; while the fine weft from one shuttle
is marked by the small black circles and the coarse weft from the other shuttle by the
larger circles.
The line of spaces marked E on all the Diagrams indicates the picks which go to

page_text: form the face of the figure, the line of spaces marked F show the picks which go to
form the face of the ground and the line G those which go to form the back of the
ground.
A modification in the manufacture of our improved cloth may be made as illustrated
by Figure 2 by working the face yarn eight picks to the round thus:-the first
second and third picks, tabby in one shed, the fourth fifth sixth and seventh picks
reverse tabby, and the eighth pick, the same tabby as the first three picks.
Other modifications might be made with three picks to the round, or with six
picks to the round. In the first case see Figure 3 by using one coarse pick in place
of the first and second picks of the four to the round pattern and in the second case
see Figure 4 by using one coarse pick in place of the first and second picks and
one coarse pick in place of the fifth and sixth picks of the eight to the round
pattern; or the six picks to the round pattern might be further modified see Figure 5
by weaving the two coarse picks together and the four fine picks together still putting
three picks in each face shed and changing the shed between the two coarse picks
and in the middle of the four fine picks, that is to say one coarse pick and two fine
picks are put into each face shed.
All the modifications given above however would produce similar cloth to that
woven by the four pick to the round pattern first described, i.e. a cloth having a raised
figure on a comparatively fine ground.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what we
claim is :-
1. The improved cloth having a raised figure on a comparatively fine ground
produced by weaving substantially in the manner herein described with reference to
Figure 1.
2. The several modifications of our improved cloth produced by weaving
substantially as herein described and as illustrated respectively by Figures 2, 3, 4,
and 5.
Dated this 42nd da...Š
1000
H. B. BARLOW,
17, St. Ann's Square, Manchester, Agent for Applicants.