AN IMPROVEMENT IN THE MANUFACTURE OF KNITTED FABRICS
Year: 1859

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Nathaniel Berry, of Paris, in the Empire of France,
Merchant, for the Invention of "AN IMPROVEMENT IN THE MANUFACTURE
OF KNITTED FABRICS."-A communication from William Benjamin,
residing in New York.
Sealed the 3rd February 1860, and dated the 5th August 1859.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Nathaniel Berry at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
5th August 1859.
I, NATHANIEL BERRY, of Paris, in the Empire of France, Merchant, do
hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "AN IMPROVEMENT IN THE
MANUFACTURE OF KNITTED FABRICS," (communicated to me by William Benjamin,
residing in New York,) to be as follows:-
This improvement consists of a method of producing knitted fabrics of
varying widths upon automatic machinery. In the process of knitting by
automatic machinery, the making of fabrics of differing widths at different
parts has hitherto been effected by commencing the work at the widest part,
as in a stocking at the top of the leg, and effecting a narrowing whenever
required, either by leaving a loose loop at the end of the row, or by gathering
two of the loops into one. If a loose loop is left, it must be carefully taken
upon the thread with which the fabric is sewn up to finish the stocking, as
otherwise that loop will "run down," and impair the article in a manner well
known...
If the narrowing is effected by gathering two loops into one, a
small knot is made in the fabric, and it is seen to be somewhat "puckered" at

page_text: that place. All of the articles made by machine knitting, such as shirts,
stockings, drawers, &c., are habitually so arranged to be worked that the
various parts of each can be made by proceeding from the widest part to the
termination of such part at its narrowest portion. My improved mode of
making the stitch where the selvage is inclined differs from this, in that it is
made by commencing the work at the narrowest part, and proceding by
widening whenever necessary to the termination of the particular part at its
widest portion. The selvage thus made at the widening portion has no loose
loops, gatherings, or knots, and is of the same general character as the selvage
along the straight sides of the fabric, and it is thus produced:-The work
being commenced at the narrowest part, when it is to be widened, the yarn
guide is made to travel so much farther at that side, that it will lay the yarn
upon one more needle than at its last row of stitches. The sinkers follow in
the usual manner, holding the loop in place until the loops have all been
thrown off, as is well known, and on the return of the yarn guide to lay
the next thread, it will commence upon one needle outside of that at which
it commenced on the last which was laid from that side, because, when
in the laying of the last loop the yarn guide came to that side, the
thread was carried over one more needle, and since when the loops were
thrown off' it remained there while the last loop of the former row was around
one end of the new last loop, the widening loop cannot run down, but is, in
fact, the same as the other selvage loops on the straight part.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Nathaniel Berry in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
4th February 1860.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, NATHANIEL
BERRY, of Paris, in the Empire of France, Merchant, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Fifth day of August, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and fifty-nine, in the twenty-third year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the
said Nathaniel Berry, Her special licence that I, the said Nathaniel Berry, my
executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Nathaniel
Berry, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during
the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and

page_text: vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel
Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "AN IMPROVEMENT IN THE MANU-
FACTURE OF KNITTED FABRICS," (communicated to me by William Benjamin,
residing in New York,) upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the
said Nathaniel Berry, my executors or administrators, by an instrument in
writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly
describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner
the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great
Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately after
the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Nathaniel Berry, do hereby declare
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the follow-
ing statement thereof (that is to say):-
This improvement consists of a method of producing knitted fabrics of
varying widths upon automatic machinery. In the process of knitting by
automatic machinery, the making of fabrics of differing widths at different
parts has hitherto been effected by commencing the work at the widest part,
as in a stocking, at the top of the leg, and effecting a narrowing whenever
required, either by leaving a loose loop at the end of the row, or by gathering
two of the loops into one. If a loose loop is left, it must be carefully taken
upon the thread with which the fabric is sewn up to finish the stocking, as
otherwise that loop will "run down," and impair the article in a manner well
known. If the narrowing is effected by gathering two loops into one, a small
knot is made in the fabric, and it is seen to be somewhat "puckered" at that
place. All of the articles made by machine knitting, such as shirts, stockings,
drawers, &c., are habitually so arranged to be worked, that the various parts
of each can be made by proceeding from the widest part to the termination of
such part at its narrowest portion. My improved mode of making the stitch
where the selvage is inclined differs from this, in that it is made by com-
mencing the work at the narrowest part, and proceeding by widening whenever
necessary to the termination of the particular part at its widest portion. The
selvage thus made at the widening portion has no loose loops, gatherings, or
knots, and is of the same general character as the selvage along the straight
sides of the fabric, and it is thus produced:-The work being commenced at
the narrowest part, when it is to be widened, the yarn guide is made to travel
so much farther at that side, that it will lay the yarn upon one more needle
than at its last row of stitches. The sinkers follow in the usual manner,
holding the loop in place until the loops have all been thrown off, as is well

page_text: known, and on the return of the yarn guide to lay the next thread, it will
commence upon one needle outside of that at which it commenced on the last
which was laid from that side, because, when in the laying of the last loop the
yarn guide came to that side, the thread was carried over one more needle, and
since when the loops were thrown off it remained there while the last loop of
the former row was around one end of the new last loop, the widening loop
cannot run down, but is, in fact, the same as the other selvage loops on the
straight part.
And having now described the nature of the said Invention, and in what
manner the same is to be performe, I declare that I claim, making the
selvage on the inclined portions of the edge of knitted fabrics, in the manner
and for the purpose substantially as set forth herein.
In witness whereof, I, the said Nathaniel Berry, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Thirtieth day of January, One thousand eight
hundred and sixty.
NATHANIEL BERRY. (L.S.)
NATHANIEL BERRY. (L.S.)