Year: 1888

page_text: I FREDERIC HUNGERFORD BOWMAN of Halifax in the West Riding of the
County of York Cotton Spinner do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be
as follows:-
The principal object of this invention is to produce a novel kind of silk lace
but the same invention is equally applicable to the production of other reticulated silk
fabrics.
For the purposes of my invention I take a piece of figured material known as
embroidery such as is produced by embroidering a suitable pattern in white silk upon
a plain cotton fabric or foundation, either by means of an embroidering machine or
by hand care being taken that the continuity of the pattern shall be such that there
are no isolated pieces of embroidery, but that all the parts of the pattern shall be
so connected together and supported that they would form a perfect lace or reticulated
fabric of silk if the whole of the cotton ground were removed.
I first immerse or soak this compound figured or embroidered fabric in water
until it is saturated and I then place it in a bath of dilute sulphuric acid (say
about one in ten or weaker) for a sufficient length of time to thoroughly impregnate
the whole fabric.
I then place the fabric in a chamber heated to about 200 to 250 degrees
(Fahrenheit) according to the nature of the fabric, and I leave it therein until the
whole of the cotton fibre has become thoroughly carbonized or disintegrated.
I then submit the fabric to a blast of air, or a jet or spray of water or steam which
will remove the whole of the charred or disintegrated cotton fibre or ground in the
form of dust, leaving the silk embroidery uninjured and in the form of an open Ince
or reticulated fabric. Or the charred cotton fibre may be removed by placing the
fabric between two pieces of loosely woven material and beating the latter which will
produce the same effect.

page_text: The silk lace or reticulated fabric is then washed in pure water either with or
without the addition of a sufficient quantity of ammonia or other suitable alkali to
neutralize any free acid which may remain therein, after which it may be dyed
if required and straightened and finished in any suitable manner.
I would here remark that although in practise I prefer to use dilute sulphuric
acid for charring or disintegrating the cotton fibre I do not wish to confine my invention
to the use of such acid as other mineral or organic acids (or a mixture of the same)
if properly diluted, and combined with the action of heat as before described, might
be used to produce the same result.
It will also be evident that ny invention is not confined to embroidered fabrics, as
the same process may be applied to some kinds of woven fancy dress goods where
silk and cotton are woven together.
Dated this 8th day of Auruot 1000

page_text: Reticulated Silk Fabrics.
1 FREDERIC HUNGERFORD BOWMAN of Halifax in the West Riding of the.
County of York Cotton Spinner do hereby declare the nature of this invention and
in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement:-
The principal object of this invention is to produce a novel kind of silk lace
but the same invention is equally applicable to the production of other reticulated silk
fabrics.
For the purposes of my invention 1 take a piece of figured material known as
embroidery such as is produced by embroidering a suitable pattern in white or other
silk upon a plain cotton fabric base or foundation either by means of an embroidering
machine or by hand care being taken that the continuity of the pattern shall be such
that there are no isolated pieces of embroidery but that the parts of the pattern shall
be so connected together and supported that they would form a perfect lace or
reticulated fabric of silk if the whole of the cotton ground were removed.
I first immerse or soak this compound figured or embroidered fabric in water when
the ground is a thick or strong one, and especially when any size or stiffening has
been used in the manufacture or finishing of the cotton foundation. Where the
cotton ground is thin and pure this preliminary soaking may be omitted as its object
is to prepare the cotton to absorb as much of the acid liquid or gas used in the next
process as possible and when the cotton is pure and the material light it is
unnecessary.
I then place the fabric in a bath of dilute sulphuric acid (the ordinary sulphuric
acid of commerce diluted with about ten times its volume of water, I have found to
be the best for the purpose where sulphuric acid is used, but it will do much weaker
if a longer time is taken in the process) until the whole of the cotton base is
completely saturated with the acid solution. The solution is best used cold although
when tepid or about sixty degrees (Fahrenheit) it seems to absorb into the cotton
best. About ten minutes immersion is usually sufficient but the time may be varied
with the texture of the cotton base.
The fabric is then removed from the acid bath and after all superfluous moisture
is removed by wringing passing through rollers or any suitable process the fabric is
slowly dried in a drying temperature not exceeding one hundred degrees
(Fahrenheit).
I then place the fabric in a closed chamber uniformly heated by steam, hot air or
any other suitable means care being taken that the temperature is not too high. I
have found that a temperature of two hundred degrees (Fahrenheit) works very
well in ordinary cases. The heat is to be applied until the whole of the cotton base
just changes colour in consequence of the carbonization of the cotton so that the fibre
is then reduced to a disintegrated condition.

page_text: The fabric is then removed and subjected to a blast of air, or a jet or spray of
water or dry steam or the fabric may be placed between two pieces of thick cloth or
other material or wrapped up in the cloth so as to preserve the reticulated fabric of
silk and beaten until the whole of the carbonized cotton base is removed in the
form of fine dust leaving the silk embroidery in the form of an open lace or reticulated
fabric of silk.
This process when the wrapper is used is materially assisted by frequent removal
of the fabric from the wrapper and by shaking the fabric either by hand or otherwise
which assists the removal of the dust.
Care should be taken to prevent the dust coming freely into the place where the
operation is carried on. It should be removed by artificial currents or otherwise so
as to prevent it from being inhaled by any operator.
The silk lace is next cleansed by washing with water either with or without the
addition of a small quantity of alkali so as to remove all traces of acid after which
the fabric is ready for drying and finishing or it may be dyed or bleached and
strengthened and finished in any suitable manner.
It is obvious that in some cases a stronger or weaker acid may be used for acting.
on the cotton and a higher or lower temperature may be employed in the above
processes of drying and heating according to the character of the fabric operated
upon and the results which it is desired to produce. These variations may be readily'
made as required by an operator of experience.
In some cases the operations above referred to for drying and carbonizing may
be carried on in the same chamber, the temperature being raised as required.
Where the cotton base is strong and the silk lace or tapestry has to be dyed in
dark colors I have found the use of sulphuric acid most advantageous but I do not
confine my invention to the use of such acid as other acids which are known to act
upon cotton in a similar manner may be employed.
Again some salts such as aluminium or zinc chloride or other salts which as
chemists would know give off acids by decomposition, may be used for acting upon
the cotton. Again mixtures of these agents may in some cases be employed and
where their action is too energetic they should be diluted as required to suit the
nature of the fabric operated upon, regard being had in all cases to the
action of the degree of heat which may be used to produce the required results.
"
Where the colour is an object and any remains of carbonized cotton would be
objectionable I use hydrochloric acid either in a closed chamber as a dilute gas, or in
solution.
For the solution I use the ordinary hydrochloric acid of commerce about thirty
two degrees (Twaddle) diluted with about ten times its volume of water and proceed
exactly in the suine way as described above with the dilute sulphuric acid except that.
I withdraw the fabric from the final heating chamber as soon as the cotton base is
sufficiently acted upon to be reduced (when rubbed between the fingers) into a fine
white powder which may be ascertained by removing a small piece of the base from
time to time and testing, or it is usually indicated by a slight change to a groyish
white tinge. The use of hydrochloric acid in the forin of a gas can only be safely
employed where the fabric is thick in the figured part, and in such case the
fabric should be previously soaked in water. As a rule the solution answers best
for all light fabrics such as trimming and other lace goods.
In some cases the base or ground employed may be of flax, or other vegetable
fibre of a cellulose character and capable of being carbonized or disintegrated by
the application of diluto acid followed by hent as hereinbefore mentioned may be
employed.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that.
what claim is:
"
First. The manufacture of lace and other analogous reticulated fabrics of silk by.

page_text: vegetable fibre having a like cellulose basis the ground being removed by treating it
substantially in the manner and for the purposes herein described.
Secondly. I claim as a new product silk lace or other analogous reticulated fabric
of a new character formed by first embroidering the required pattern in silk on a
ground of cotton or other vegetable fibre having a cellulose base, and then removing
the ground substantially in the manner hereinbefore described.
•
GEORGE DAVIES,
4, St. Ann's Square, Manchester,
Agent for the Applicant.