Improvements in the Manufacture of Figured Fabrics.
Year: 1888

page_text: PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Figured Fabrics.
We, THOMAS TAYLOR of the firm of Barlow and Jones Limited of Bolton in the
County of Lancaster Manufacturers and JACOB WARBURTON of the same place
Designer, do hereby declare the nature of this Invention to be as follows
Our invention relates principally to figured fabrics such as quilts, toilet covers,
table cloths, curtains, etc., and the object of our improvements is to produce a
reversible figured fabric composed of two distinct cloths either plain twill or other
suitable weaves the two distinct cloths being bound together and figured upon by
another warp of one or more colours. The colour of the distinct cloths may be the
same for both sides or one side may be a different colour from the other.
To accomplish our object wo employ in the weaving of our improved reversible
fabric a Jacquard machine to actuate the figuring and binding warp or yarn and healds
to actnate the ground warp or yarn which forms the two distinct cloths. We weave
this improved fabric with two shuttles when the colour of the cloth on one side of the
fabric is to be different from the colour of the cloth on the other side of the fabric
but when the grounds on both sides of the fabric are to be of the same colour we
prefer to use only one shuttle.
When manufacturing our improved reversible fabric with two plain cloths of
different colours and two shuttles four heald shafts would be required and the action of
the Jacquard machine and heald shafts would be as follows :-
1st Pick. The Jacquard machine raises the yarn which is to form the figure on the
top side of the fabric and the first heald shaft is also raised.
2nd Pick. The Jacquard machine raises the yarn which is to form the figure on the
top side of the fabric and the second heald shaft is raised.
3rd Pick. The Jacquard machine raises all the figuring yarn except that portion
which is to form the figure on the under side of the fabric and the first, second, and
third heald shafts are also raised.
4th Pick. The Jacquard machine raises all the figuring yarn except that portion
which is to form the figure on the under side of the fabric and the first, second and
fourth heald shafts are raised.

page_text: The first two picks are from the same coloured weft and form the cloth on the top
side of the fabric and the last two picks are from the other coloured weft and form the
cloth on the under side of the fabric and the figuring warp is hidden between the
ground cloths except where it produces the pattern which also serves for the entire
binding of the reversible fabric together.
When manufacturing our improved reversible fabric with the same coloured ground
on both sides we may use the same order of picks as for two colours or we may put
the picks in the following order :-
1st, then 3rd, then 2nd then 4th, that is to say instead of putting two picks in
together on one side of the fabric and then two picks on the other side we put one
pick to one side of the fabric and then one pick to the other side alternately or we
might use the picks in the order last named for a fabric made with different colours
on each side and use what is called a pick and pick loom with two shuttles.
Instead of four heald shafts which are most suitable for weaving plain cloths other
numbers of shafts are required for twills and other weaves.
Dated this 29th day of March 1888.

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Figured. Fabrics.
We THOMAS TAYLOR of the firm of Barlow and Jones Limited of Bolton in the
County of Lancaster Manufacturers and JACOB WARBURTON of the same place:
Designer, do hereby declare the nature of this Invention, and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement:-
Our invention relates principally to figured fabrics such as quilts, toilet covers,
table cloths, curtains, etc., and the object of our improvements is to produce a
reversible figured fabric composed of two distinct cloths either plain twill or other
suitable weaves the two distinct cloths being bound together and figured upon by
another warp of one or more colours. The colour of the distinct cloths may be the
same for both sides or one side may be a different colour from the other.
To accomplish our object we employ in the weaving of our improved reversible
fabric a Jacquard machine to actuate the figuring, and binding warp or yarn and
healds to actuate the ground warp or yarn which forms the two distinct cloths. We
weave this improved fabric with two shuttles when the colour of the cloth on one side
of the fabric is to be different from the colour of the cloth on the other side of the
fabric but when the grounds on both sides of the fabric are to be of the same colour we
prefer to use only one shuttle.
When manufacturing our improved reversible fabric with two plain cloths of
different colours and two shuttles, four heald shafts would be required and the action
of the Jacquard machine and heald shafts would be as follows:-
:-
1st Pick. The Jacquard machine raises the yarn which is to form the figure on the
top side of the fabric and the first heald shaft is also raised.
2nd Pick. The Jacquard machine raises the yarn which is to form the figure on
the top side of the fabric and the second heald shaft is raised.
3rd Pick. The Jacquard machine raises all the figuring yarn except that portion
which is to form the figure on the under side of the fabric and the first second and
third heald shafts are also raised.
4th Pick. The Jacquard machine raises all the figuring yarn except that portion
which is to form the figure on the under side of the fabric and the first second and
fourth heald shafts are raised.
The first two picks are from the same coloured weft and form the cloth on the top
side of the fabric and the last two picks are from the other coloured weft and form the
cloth on the under side of the fabric and the figuring warp is hidden between the
ground cloths except where it produces the pattern which also serves for the entire
binding of the reversible fabric together.

page_text: When manufacturing our improved reversible fabric with the same coloured ground
on both sides we may use the same order of picks as for two colours or we may
put the picks in the following order :-
1st, then 3rd, then 2nd, then 4th, that is to say, instead of putting two picks in
together on one side of the fabric and then two picks on the other side we put one
pick to one side of the fabric and then one pick to the other side alternately or we
might use the picks in the order last named for a fabric made with different colours on
each side and use what is called a pick and pick loom with two shuttles.
Instead of four heald shafts which are most suitable for weaving plain cloths other
numbers of shafts are required for twills and other weaves.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature our said Invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what we
claim is―
1.-The herein described process embodying our improvements in the manufacture
of a reversible figured fabric composed of two distinct cloths of the same or different
colours said cloths being bound together and figured upon by another warp of one or
more colours.
2. A reversible figured fabric composed of two distinct cloths of either plain twill
or other suitable weaves and of the saine or different colours these two distinct cloths
being bound together and figured upon by an additional warp of one or more colours
substantially as specified.
IX
1
1011
Ր T 1
1000
H. B. BARLOW,
17, St. Ann's Square, Manchester,
Agent for Applicants.