IN EMBROIDERING MACHINES
Year: 1881

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Alexander Melville Clark, of 53, Chancery Lane, in the
"IMPROVEMENTS
County of Middlesex, Patent Agent, for an Invention of
IN EMBROIDERING MACHINES." A communication from abroad by the Firm
of Ferry and Millet. of Lunéville. France.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Alexander Melville Clark at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 14th November 1881.
ALEXANDER MELVILLE CLARK, of 53, Chancery Lane, in the County of Middlesex,
Patent Agent. "IMPROVEMENTS IN EMBROIDERING MACHINES." [A communication
from abroad by the Firm of Ferry and Millet, of Lunèville, France.]
This Invention relates to an improved embroidering machine, which is
distinguished from those hitherto in use by the thread for each needle being
supplied in a continuous manner, whereby a considerable saving in time, labor, and
material is effected.
The Invention is based on the application to that class of embroidering
machine in which the fabric stretched on a frame is shifted by a pantograph at
each stitch made; of a combination of needles and shuttles (the needles being
placed on one side of the fabric and the shuttles on the other) operating in the
same manner as in sewing machines, that is to say, each needle being supplied
with a continuous thread from a spool, and receiving alternate rectilinear motion
to pass the thread through the fabric and throw out a loop which is traversed by
a shuttle carrying its own thread upon a spool contained within it.
It should be understood that any suitable mechanical arrangements may be
employed for producing the two and fro movement of the needle bars, the tension
of the needle threads, and the to and fro movement of the shuttles, and that the
machine may have one or two ranges of needles and be arranged either vertically
or horizontally, the Invention consisting broadly in an embroidering machine with
frame and pantograph, and operating on the principle of the sewing machine in
the manner above described.
The Invention is illustrated in the accompanying Drawings, in which Figure 1
.

page_text: shows a front elevation of a portion of an embroidering machine arranged according
to this Invention, having two ranges of needles and shuttles; Figure 2 is an end
elevation, the end frames being merely indicated by dotted lines to show the
mechanism more clearly, and shown separately in Figure 3; Figures 4 to 27 show
details of various parts hereinafter referred to. The same letters and figures of
reference indicate the same parts in all these Figures. As the mechanism is alike
at both ends of the machine I will describe the left hand end only, shown in
Figure 1.
a, a, are the end frames of the machine braced together by cross bars c, and to
those of the opposite end of the machine by longitudinal T iron bars b; d is the
frame on which the two fabrics to be embroidered or worked are stretched upon
rollers e, e, mounted in bearings fon the back of the frame d, and provided with
ratchet wheels g and pawls to maintain the fabrics at the desired tension; h, h, are
two hollow cylindrical cast iron shafts which, with the arms fixed on them,
constitute the carriages, and which are so mounted upon the end frames by
mechanism hereinafter described that they may be moved away from one another
when it is desired to change the fabric upon the frame d; i, i, are two arms
(shown separately in Figure 4) fixed to the upper and lower sides of the hollow
shaft to support two shafts (, l, which operate the two ranges of needle bars, and
also the spools m containing the needle threads and the tension devices n; o, o¹,
are saddle pieces, also shown in Figure 4 and in cross section in Figure 5, bolted
to each of the hollow shafts h, h, and carrying the bent arms and q, shown
respectively in Figures 6 and 7; r, r, Figures 2 and 8, are dovetailed bars fixed on
-the arms-p,-and-carrying_the_slide_rests 8 (Figures 2 and 9) in which the needle
bars are mounted; t, t, (Figure 10) are square bars fixed to the armis qi
u (Figure 11) are needle hole plates fixed to bars t, t, and pierced with holes v
corresponding to the needles; x (Figure 12) are cross plates at the back of plates u
forming vertical shuttle races, and each having a groove or channel in which the
needle is received after passing through the needle hole v, and the shuttles travel
against these races to pass through the loops thrown out by the needles;
y (Figure 1), main shaft mounted in bearings 1, and provided with a clutch 2, 3,
operated by a lever 4 and connecting rod 5; 6 is a disc fixed on the end of shaft y
having a crank pin 7 (Figure 13) which works in a semicircular slot 10 in a
plate 8 fitted in a dovetailed guide 9, in which it is slid up and down by the
rotation of the crank, the plate 8 being provided with a fork 11 at its upper end;
12 (Figures 1, 2, and 15) is a connecting rod engaged at its lower end in the
fork 11 and jointed to crank arms 13 on the shafts, l, shown separately in
Figure 16; 14 are the needle bars, and 15 the needles; 16 are lever arms (shown
separately in Figure 17) keyed on shafts 1, 1; they are in number equal to that
of the needles, and are connected to the needle bars by links 17 (Figures 2 and 18)
and square couplings 18, so as to permit of detaching the links 17 from the needle
bars and of readily removing the latter when it is required to replace the needles;
19 (Figure 2) is a longitudinal shaft running the whole length of the machine ;
20 (Figures 2 and 23) is a rod, of which there are as many as there are shuttles
screwed to shaft 19; 21 (Figures 19 and 23) is the shuttle carrier screwed to
rods 20, and 22 (Figure 20) is the shuttle. The shaft 19 receives up and down
motion from the crank pin 7 by means of link 23, elbow lever 24, and connecting
rod 25. 26 (Figures 1 and 21) are brackets attached to the ends of the cylinders
h, h', and sliding on dovetailed rails 27 (Figures 1 and 22) on the end frames, so
as to enable the carriages to be moved back from frame d in order to insert or
remove the fabric. For this purpose the slides 26 have rack teeth at the under-
side gearing, as shown in Figure 2, with a pinion 28 keyed on a shaft 29 turned
either by hand or by a winch handle. Figures 24 and 25 show the pantograph
consisting of the parts 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, but its construction being well known it
is unnecessary to describe it; 35, 35, (Figure 26 are the counterbalance and arm of
the pantograph like those of other embroidering machines mounted on a standard
36 (Figure 27), and guided by a crosshead 37 (Figure 26).

page_text: The whole being arranged as described the action of the machine is as follows:-
The operator throws the clutch 2, 3, into gear, and uses the pantograph in the
same manner as in other machines. The rotary motion of the crank pin 7 imparts
up and down motion to slide 8. which is transmitted to all the needle bars
14 by the connecting rod 12, levers 13, shafts 1, 1, and links 17. There is a
considerable pause of the slide at each of the dead points, and it has a gradually
accelerated motion upwards, during which the needles are caused to pierce the
fabric. The mechanism 23, 24, 25, by which the shuttles are operated is properly
timed with respect to the motion of the needles, and the shuttles descend through
the loops thrown out by the needles on their return movement, carrying with them
their threads, which interlock with the needle threads and lie on the back of the
fabric. The needles being entirely withdrawn, the stitches are slightly tightened
by the take up levers 38. When the slide 8 has reached the lower dead point, the
operator marks another stitch upon the pattern with the pantograph during the
time the crank pin is passing the dead point. This time is amply sufficient, but it
is essential that the operator should observe this cadence as the pantograph should
not be moved during the movement of the needles. The movements above
described may be made at the rate of 12 times a minute, but the machine would
be driven at the speed most convenient to the operator.
I will now describe some modifications of the machine above described. It has
been stated that tension devices were employed for the needle threads, each
formed of two sunall metal discs, between which the thread is nipped as in some
kinds of sewing machines, It is however difficult, or at least troublesome, and
involves much loss of time, to obtain a uniform tension of all the threads by this
means, as the nuts of all the devices in each row require to be separately adjusted,
and as a uniform tension for all the needle threads is essential to the proper
working of the machine, I propose to enable the operator to apply simultaneously
the same degree of tension to all the threads in both ranges by means of the
mechanism represented in front elevation in Figure 28, in end elevation in
Figure 29, and in plan in Figure 30. Figures 31 and 32 show details in front and
end view. n are the thread nipping discs upon plain central stems 39 without
tightening nuts. The spools are placed on pins 40, and the threads therefrom are
led between the discs. The pairs of discs are respectively pressed upon by flat
springs 55, slotted at their free ends to pass over the pins 39, all the springs of
each range being attached to the same bar 52, one for each range. Each bar 52
has at each end a stirrup 53 provided with a friction roller 54, and the two stirrups
of each bar respectively embrace, and their friction rollers take under bars 47, each
of which has inclined slots 50, one near each end, each traversed by a pin 51 fixed
in a guide 49, in which the bar 47 is free to slide endwise. The two bars 47 aro
connected by arms 44 bolted to them at 48 to the same crosshead 43, to which the
arms 44 are extensively connected by studs 46 passing through slots 45 in the
crosshead, which is grooved to receive the arms 44. This crossbead is attached to
a screwed rod 42 upon which screws a female screw or wing nut 41 mounted to
turn in a bracket 26, but incapable of longitudinal motion. By turning this nut
the tension of all the springs is regulated at once, for by turning it one way or the
other the parts 42, 43, 44, 47, are moved bodily to the left or right, as the case
may be. In this end wise movement of the bars 47 they are guided by the fixed
pins 51 traversing the inclined slots 50, and owing to the inclination of the slots
the bars 47 are raised or lowered according to the direction in which they are
moved, thereby raising or lowering the bars 52, which are prevented from
participating in the longitudinal motion of bars 47 by the stirrups 53 abutting
against the guides 49. The stress of all the springs 55 is by this means varied
at once and to a uniform extent.
Another modification consists in the substitution for the take up levers 38,
shown in Figure 2, which were operated by the needle bars, of mechanism
entirely independent of said needle bars receiving motion direct from the main
shaft of the machine whereby the slack is more quickly taken up. This mechanism

page_text: is represented in end view in Figure 33. 57 are rocking shafts formed of angle
iron bars extending the whole length of the machine, and journalled at their ends
in bearings 58 fixed to the arms p. 59 are the take up levers, one for each
needle, fixed in the rocking bars 57, and having their free ends bent and pierced
with eyes 60, through which the needle threads are led. 61 is a rod to which
are jointed short arms 62 fixed to the rocking bars 57. The rod 61 is moved
upwards by a cam 63 keyed on the main shaft y, and acting on a lever 64 pivoted
at 65 in a bearing 66, and connected by a link 67 to the rod 61, and this rod is
moved in the opposite direction by a spring 68. This action of the cam is so timed
that when the needles 15 are withdrawn from the fabric the rod 61 is suddenly
raised, thereby rocking the bars 57 and throwing back the whole of the take up
levers 60, whereby the stitches are drawn tight, after which the spring 68 returns
the parts to their former position in readiness for the next stitch.
Another improvement is a presser bar, consisting of a flat metal plate extending
the whole length of the machine, for pressing the fabric against the needle plate u
(Figures 11 and 23) to prevent the fabric being drawn back by the needles in
their return movement, and ensure the throwing out of the loops of the needle
threads. This presser bar is raised off the fabric by the levers which operate the
needle bars after the needles are withdrawn, to allow of the fabric being shifted by
the pantograph. This presser bar is represented in end view and plan in Figures
34 and 35, and consists of a flat plate 69 having holes (70) for the needles, coinciding
with the holes in the needle hole plate, and attached to a half round bar 71 of
the same length, supported by horizontal rods 72 attached to it near each end, and
sliding in a guide 73 similar to those (8) of the needle bars and fixed like the latter
to the dovetailed rails 7. Upon each rod 72 is a spiral spring 74 confined between
guide 73 and the bar 71, and pressing the plate 69 against the fabric. 75 is a
tappet fixed by a socket 75 to the rear end of each rod 72, and projecting in the
path of the lever 16, which operates one of the adjacent needle bars, so that when
the needles are caused by the oscillation of rock shaft and levers 16 to penetrate
the fabric, the springs 74 expand and hold the presser plate 69 pressed against the
fabric until the needles are completely withdrawn, whereupon the levers 16 con-
tinuing their backward movement strike tappets 76, and raise the presser plate 69
off the fabric to permit of its being shifted by the pantograph.
Another modification consists in the form of the slot 10 of slide 8 by which the
needles are operated.
This improved form of slot is shown in Figure 36, and is designed to impart an
irregular rectilinear motion to the needles in order to facilitate the throwing out of
the loops. When the crank pin 7 which receives continuous uniform rotary notion
raises slide 8 the needles commence to enter the fabric, and on the crank pin
passing the swell 77 the slide 8 suddenly drops by its own weight until the side of
the slot again comes in contact with the crank pin. By this means the needles
which have commenced to pass through the fabric are caused to make a sudden
return movement whereby the thread is bent or doubled in order to prepare it to
throw out the loop. The crank continuing its motion again raises the slide and
the needles resume their forward movement, and on their return movement, the
thread having been prepared as above mentioned, the loop is unfailingly thrown
out. This has the further advantage that the needle need not be exactly level
with the shuttle races x, and the grooves therein may be made a little deeper as
the loops will always be thrown out, and if there be a little play in parts of the
machine, the needles will not be liable to strike and be blunted or broken.
Another and very important advantage resulting from the certain throwing out
of the loops is that chenille, gold, silver, or other metallic or other threads of a
more or less inflexible nature which it has not hitherto been possible to use, may be
employed for embroidering, whereby new or improved products may be obtained.
The Invention therefore includes not only the particular form of slot represented
in Figure 36, but consists broadly in imparting by any suitable arrangement of

page_text: mechanism a backward movement to the needles on entering the fabric, as above
specified, to prepare the thread and cause it to throw out a loop.
Another modification consists in a means of preventing the machine being put
out of gear, except when the needle and shuttle operating mechanism is at its
lowest position, and the needles are therefore withdrawn from the fabric, which
would be liable to injury were the machine stopped whilst the needles are still in it,
as the said mechanism, arranged as above described, falls very suddenly by its own
gravity.
This improvement consists in a latch which locks the clutch lever, and is caused
by a cam upon the main shaft to liberate it only at the moment when the needle
and shuttle operating mechanism is at the bottom of its stroke. Figure 37 shows
a plan, and Figures 38 and 39 details of this apparatus; y is the main shaft
driven by a belt on pulley 78, in one with the part 2 of the clutch. The part 3,
which slides on the other part of shaft y, is engaged or disengaged with part 2 by
the hand lever 4, connecting rod 79, lever 80, oscillating on a fixed pivot 81,
link 82, slide 83, and fork 84, fixed to slide 83 and embracing the clutch 3; 85 is
the latch lever pivoted at one end 80 on the guide 87 and pressed down by a
spring 89, and having at the other end a latch 88 which engages with the lever SO;
90 is a lever oscillating on a horizontal axis 91 in a bearing 92, and slotted at one
end to receive a stud 94 on the end of latch 88; 95 is a tappet on shaft y, which in
its rotation strikes the other end of lever 90, oscillates it, and thereby raises the
latch 88 out of the way of the lever 80. It will be seen that in the position shown
in the Figures the rod 79 cannot be moved in the direction of the arrow to
disengage the clutch owing to the latch 88 preventing the movement of
lever 80, the parts remaining thus locked until the needle operating mechanism
reaches its lowest point, when tappet 95 strikes lever 90, raises latch 88, and
so permits of the clutch being thrown out of gear.
When the machine is thrown
into gear lever 80 slips under latch 88 and becomes locked thereby.
Another modification consists in driving the whole of the shuttle carriers in the
two ranges by two bars instead of by separate rods 20; for each shuttle carrier, as
shown in Figure 2, only two such rods are used, one at each end of the machine,
sliding in guides upon the arms q, and operated by the connecting rods 25 as
before. This arrangement renders the shuttles more uniform in their motion and
simplifies the construction of the machine. Figure 40 is a part front elevation of
part of the apparatus; Figure 41, a side elevation; and Figure 42, a plan of one of
the shuttle driving bars. 90 are T iron bars extending the whole length of
the machine having a row of pins 97 to which the shuttle-carriers 21 are connected.
These two bars 97 are connected by two cross bars 98, one at each end of the
machine, the middle portion being made of angle iron, and the two end portions 99
cylindrical and sliding in guides 100 upon the arms q. The upper bar 96 is
connected by brackets 101 to the under portion of bars 98 and the lower bar 96 is
connected by a similar bracket 102 by a set screw 103 to the cylindrical portion
99 to permit of regulating the distance between the bars 96. 104 is a stud on
each bar 98 to which the rods 25, Figure 2, are connected for raising and lowering
the shuttle driving mechanism.
Another modification consists in a novel arrangement of frame, by means of
which the fabric may be shifted in any direction as well as the centre of
equilibrium of said frame, so as to permit of reproducing all kinds of patterns,
and of superposing, overlapping, or combining patterns at different distances and
to enable the embroidered portion to be shifted, and that to be worked substituted
in its place without moving the frame itself. This improved frame is represented
in Figures 43 to 50; Figures 43 being a front view; Figure 44 a back view;
Figures 45 and 46 are end views thereof. Figures 47, 48, and 49 show end side
and underside views of the mechanisin for shifting the frame longitudinally.
Figure 50 is a detail of a portion of the frame. 105 is a wooden crosshead to
which the pantograph 106 is connected by a dovetailed slide 112, received in a
Corresponding groove guide 113 fixed to the crosshead 105. The slide 112 has

page_text: rack teeth 114 at the lower side, and gears with a pinion 115 on a spindle 116
mounted in the guide 113 and operated by a crank handle 117, whereby the
crosshead 105 may be shifted horizontally by the sliding of 113 upon 112. To
the ends of the crosshead 105 are fixed vertical racks 107 with which gear pinions
on a shaft 10$ mounted in bearings 109 on the frame d and provided with a
ratchet, and pawl, and crank handle 111, whereby the entire frame d carrying the
fabric is suspended from crosshead 105, and may be raised or lowered bodily
instead of rolling and unrolling the fabric, which requires much time to adjust it
for the continuation of the work in a fresh place. 118 are vertical guide rods fixed
to the front side of the frame d at each end, and 119 are adjustable stretcher bars
between which the fabric is stretched in the vertical direction, said bars having
ears 120 at the ends which can slide on rods 118 to adjust the bars to suit the
width of the fabric to be worked, and are fixed by set screws 121. The bars 119
are each formed of two parts screwed together, one of which is provided with a
groove 122 having an inwardly projecting lip or flange to receive and hold the
selvedge of the fabric, which selvedge is corded to prevent it being drawn out of
said groove. 123 are vertical rollers at each end of the frame d upon which the
fabric is wound and stretched lengthwise. These rollers turn in bearings 124 upon
frame d and are provided with ratchet wheels 125 and pawls to maintain the
desired tension. e, e, are horizontal rollers mounted in bearings f, and provided
with ratchets g, upon which rollers the fabric is wound when wider than the
distance between a pair of stretchers 119. In this case the width of the fabric
would be limited by the length of the machine as usual.
The frame is used as follows:-Suppose it is desired to embroider at a distance
of 12 centimetres a strip of fabric 30 centimetres wide, with repeats of 6, 8, 10, or
even 12 centimetres. The fabric, which may be of any length, has a corded edge of
such thickness that it will be retained in the groove 122, but capable of being
drawn lengthwise through the groove. The pairs of stretchers 119 are placed at
a distance apart about equal to the width of the fabric and the corded edges; the
latter are drawn lengthwise through the grooves 122 and one end of the fabric is
wound on one of the vertical rollers 123, and the other end upon the other roller,
whereby the fabric is well stretched in a horizontal direction. Tension is then
imparted to it in the vertical direction by the bars 119, care being taken to obtain
the desired tension by moving the lower bar only of each pair. As a design of
12 centimetres when enlarged six times for the pantograph involves a motion of
the latter through 72 centimetres, the instrument is very difficult to operate as the
balance of the parts is destroyed more and more in receding from the centre of
equilibrium. In the machines of this Invention this inconvenience would be still
greater than in ordinary machines, as the limit of its work is determined by the
facility with which the pantograph is worked. To make 20 stitches a minute it is
necessary that this operation should be easy and without fatigue, as the speed
having been once fixed, the operator cannot alter it, and if owing to any fault in
the balance of the mechanism he cannot follow with the pantograph the motion
of the machine the needles will be broken. It is therefore necessary to
compensate for this want of balance in the case of large patterns, in which there
is necessarily too great a deviation from the centre of equilibrium, and this is
effected by shifting the frame d laterally 1, 2, 3, 4, 10, or 12 centimetres to the
right or left by turning the handle 117. The pattern of 72 centimetres is thus
divided so to speak into parts of any desired width, and the centre of equilibrium
is shifted laterally to any point desired, each centimetre of the fabric corresponding
to 6 centimetres on the pattern.
What has been above stated with regard to the lateral shifting also applies to the
vertical shifting of the frame by means of handle 111 and racks 107, whereby the
centre of equilibrium of the pantograph is shifted in a vertical sense to the extent
desired. The pattern of 72 centimetres is thus virtually divided into as many small
squares as desired, and all patterns whose repeats are within 12 centimetres may be
executed without the necessity of rolling the fabric and joining the design which

page_text: is so difficult to effect after rolling. By means of the bars 119 and their fixing
devices 120 the time occupied in mounting is considerably abridged, and the hooks
ordinarily employed, which are very liable to injure delicate fabrics, are dispensed
with. The most important advantage however is that fabrics of greater width
than the length of the machine can be embroidered which could not be done
hitherto. The embroidered portion is rolled on one of the vertical rollers 123 and
the remainder of the piece is presented to the needles without interruption other
than necessary to allow the operator to make the stylus of the pantograph corre-
spond with the terminal stitch of the rolled up portion. In this manner pieces of
from 10 to 12 metres may be embroidered instead of being limited to 4 metres or
the length of the machine, which is invariable.
The Invention also comprises further modifications in the form of some of
the parts whereby the movements of the machine are simplified and ib
considerable gain in speed and precision are obtained. These improvements are
represented in Figures 50 to 55, and consist in a modified form of needle and
needle bar, and also in needle operating mechanism whereby the needle is made to
perform the function hereinafter described. The needle bar before described
(Figure 9) may be replaced by the one shown in Figures 51 and 53. The part 126
forming the base S is fixed on a flat dovetailed rail r by a screw 127, and can bo
adjusted thereon according to the distance desired between the repeat of the design.
The base 126 is Bat on the upper side and its nose has a triangular groove 130 in
in which the stump of the needle fits exactly, and upon this flat surface is a pivoted
covering plate 128 turning upon a screw 133 by which it is fixed to the part 126.
This plute closely covers the groove in which the needle is held, and its underface
has a cross groove curved to the are of a circle which engages with a lug 135 on
the stump of the needle and locks it in the needle bar. The cover has n thumb
knob 132 at its tail end whose stem passes through the cover to form a stop which
is received in a notch in part 126 when the cover is closed. The point and stem
of the needle are of the same form as that previously described so far as the needle
is caused to enter the fabric in the automatic working of the machine, but from
this point it increases quickly in size in the form of a quadrilateral pyramid with
sharp edges, as shown in Figure 52. It is reduced to a triangular form at the part
which lies in the groove of the bar 126, and its flat upper side lies flush with the
surface of the part 120 except the lug 135 which projects above this surface and
engages in the notch of the covering-plate as above mentioned. By moving this
cover to one side a new needle may be readily inserted with perfect accuracy. The
quadrangular part of the needle is intended for use as a piercer, and it is then
operated in the manner hereafter described.
For this purpose the following modification of the parts are necessary.
In Figure 14 the fork 11 formis part of the slide 8 and moves the connecting
rod 12 directly, but in the arrangement shown in Figures 54 and 55, the fork 11
forms part of the connecting rod and the pin with which it engages is on the slide.
The fork 11 is pivoted to the flat side of the connecting rod 12 by a bolt 141, and
it is locked in position by a removable key 139. By making the fork 11 movable
the needles can be worked independently of the main shaft for making eyelet or
other holes, and for this the ordinary rate of motion of the machine would be too
rapid and would cause the fabric to be torn or break the needles, and for this delicate
operation manual agency is required. In order to disconnect the machine for this
purpose it is stopped, the key 139 is turned round and withdrawn and the fork
turned up on its pivot. The lower end of the connecting rod has a rounded part
upon which a cam 137 acts in a gradual manner operated by a hand lever 138.
The cam 137 is mounted upon a strong cross bar 136 between the uprights a, a, of
the frame. The connecting rod at the other end of the machine is similarly
disconnected and operated by a similar cam actuated by the cain 137 at 142. The
hand lever 138 is within reach of the operator's right hand when seated while his
left hand grasps the pantograph. When it is desired to use the needles as
perforators the hooks 11 are disconnected as described, and the lever 138 is pressed

page_text: gradually forwards more or less according to kind of hole to be made, whereby the
part 140 of the cam pushes back the fork 11 and raises the connecting rod. The
eyelet holes are enlarged by giving a slight circular movement to the pantograph
after the needles have penetrated the fabric up to about the middle of the sharp
angled portion of their shanks. When the lever handle is drawn back the
connecting rod descends, and this movement should be carefully performed to avoid
shocks.
When the connecting rods are raised as above described the whole of the needle
bars are moved forward by lever 16 (Figure 53) and the connecting link 10' which
causes the slides of the rail r which carries the needle bars to slide upon their
guide rods p. The needles are moved forward until their quadrangular shanks
have sufficiently penetrated the fabric, the operation being completed if necessary
with the aid of the pantograph.
When the needles are operated by hand for this purpose the shuttles remain at rest
as it is necessary that they should do, and this also is effected by the disconnection
of the needle operating mechanism from the main shaft.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed
by the said Alexander Melville Clark in the Great Seal Patent Office on
the 13th May 1882.
ALEXANDER MELVILLE CLARK, of 53, Chancery Lane, in the County of Middlesex,
Patent Agent.
IMPROVEMENTS IN EMBROIDERING MACHINES." A communication
from abroad by the Firm of Ferry and Millet, of Lunèville, France.
This Invention relates to an improved embroidering machine which is dis-
tinguished from those hitherto in use by the thread for each needle being supplied
in a continuous manner, whereby a considerable saving in time, labor, and material
is effected.
The Invention is based on the application to that class of embroidering machine
in which the fabric stretched on a frame is shifted by a pantograph at each stitch
made, of a combination of needles and shuttles (the needles being placed on one
side of the fabric and the shuttles on the other), operating in the same manner as
in sewing machines, that is to say, each needle being supplied with a continuous
thread from a spool, and receiving alternate rectilinear motion to pass the thread
through the fabric and throw out a loop, which is traversed by a shuttle carrying
its own thread upon a spool contained within it.
It should be understood that any suitable mechanical arrangements may be
employed for producing the to and fro movement of the needle bars, the tension
of the needle threads, and the to and fro movement of the shuttles, and that the
machine may have one or two ranges of needles, and be arranged either vertically
or horizontally, the Invention consisting broadly in an embroidering machine with
frame and pantograph, and operating on the principle of the sewing machine in the
manner above described.
The Invention is illustrated in the accompanying Drawings, in which Figure 1
shows a front elevation of a portion of an embroidering machine arranged according
to this Invention, having two ranges of needles and shuttles; Figure 2 is an end
elevation, the end frames being here merely indicated by dotted lines to show the
mechanism more clearly, but shown separately in Figure 3; Figures 4 to 27 show
details of various parts hereinafter referred ro. The same letters and figures of
reference indicate the same parts in all these Figures. As the mechanism is alike
at both ends of the machine, I will describe the left hand end only, shown in
Figure 1.
a, a, are the end frames of the machine braced together by cross bars c, and to
those of the opposite end of the machine by longitudinal T iron bars b; d is the
frame on which the two fabrics to be embroidered or worked aro stretched upon
rollers e, e, mounted in bearings fon the back of the frame d, and provided with
ratchet wheels g and pawls to maintain the fabrics at the desired tension; h, h', are
two hollow cylinders of cast iron, which, with the arms fixed on them, constitute
the carriages, and which are so mounted upon the end frames by mechanism
hereinafter described that they may be moved away from one another when it is
desired to change the fabric upon the frame d; i, i, are two arms (shown
separately in Figure 4) fixed to the upper and lower sides of the hollow cylinder h
to support two shafts L, l, which operate the two ranges of needle bars, and also
the spools m containing the needle threads and the tension devices n; o, o¹, are
saddle pieces, also shown in Figure 4, and in cross section in Figure 5, bolted to
each of the hollow cylinders h, h, and carrying the bent arms
and shown
respectively in Figures 6 and 7; 7, r, Figures 2 and 8, are dovetailed ways fixed
on the arms p, and carrying the slide rests 8 (Figures 2 and 9) in which the needle

page_text: bars are mounted; t, t, (Figure 10) are square bars fixed to the arms q;
u, (Figure 11) are needle hole plates fixed to bars t, t, and pierced with holes v corre-
sponding to the needles; x, (Figure 12) are cross plates at the back of plates u
forming vertical shuttle races, and each having a groove or channel in which the
needle is received after passing through the needle hole v, and the shuttles travel
against these races to pass through the loops thrown out by the needles;
3, (Figure 1) main shaft mounted in bearings 1, and provided with a clutch 2, 3,
operated by a lever 4 and connecting rod 5. 6 is a disc fixed on the end of
shaft y, having a crank pin 7 (Figure 13) which works in a semicircular slot 10
in a plate 8 (Figure 14) fitted in a dovetailed guide 9, in which it is slid up and
down by the rotation of the crank, the plate 8 being provided with a fork 11 at
its upper end; 12 (Figures 1, 2, and 15) is a connecting rod engaged at its lower
end in the fork 11, and jointed to crank arms 13 on the shafts 7, 1, shown
separately in Figure 10; 14 (Figures 2 and 9) are the needle bars, and 15, the
needles; 10 are lever arms (shown separately in Figure 17) keyed on shafts 1, 1;
they are in number equal to that of the needles, and are connected to the needle
bars by links 17 (Figures 2 and 18), and square couplings 18, so as to permit of
detaching the links 17 from the needle bars, and of readily removing the latter
when it is required to replace the needles; 19 (Figure 2) is a longitudinal shaft
running the whole length of the machine; 20 (Figures 2 and 23) is a rod (of which
there are as many as there are shuttles) screwed to shaft 19; 21 (Figures 19 and
23) is the shuttle carrier screwed to rods 20; and 22 (Figures 20 and 23) is the
shuttle. The shaft 19 receives up and down motion from the crank pin 7 by
means of link 23, elbow lever 24, and connecting rod 25; 26 (Figures 1 and 21)
are brackets attached to the ends of the cylinders h, h¹, and sliding on dovetailed
rails 27 (Figures and 22) on the end frames, so as to enable the carriages to be
moved back from frame d in order to insert or remove the fabric. For this purpose
the slides 26 have rack teeth at the underside gearing, as shown in Figure 2, with
a pinion 28 keyed on a shaft 29, turned either by hand or by a winch handle.
Figures 24 and 25 show the pantograph, consisting of the parts 30, 31, 32, 33, 34,
but its construction being well known it is unnecessary to describe it; 35, 35,
(Figure 26) are the counterbalance and arm of the pantograph, like those of other
embroidering machines, mounted on a standard 36 (Figure 27), and guided by a
crosshead 37 (Figure 26).
The whole being arranged as described, the action of the machine is as follows:-
The operator throws the clutch 2, 3, into gear and uses the pantograph in the
same manner as in other machines. The rotary motion of the crank pin 7 imparts
up and down motion to slide 8, which is transmitted to all the needle bars 14 by
the connecting rod 12, levers 13, shafts l, l, and links 17. There is a considerable
pause of the slide at each of the dead points, and it has a gradually accelerated
motion upwards, during which the needles are caused to pierce the fabric. The
mechanism 23, 24, 25, by which the shuttles are operated, is properly timed with
respect to the motion of the needles, and the shuttles descend through the loops
thrown out by the needles on their return movement, carrying with them their
threads which interlock with the needle threads and lie on the back of the fabric.
The needles being entirely withdrawn, the stitches are slightly tightened by the
take up levers 38. When the slide 8 has reached the lower dead point, the operator
marks another stitch upon the pattern with the pantograph during the time the
crank pin is passing the dead point. This time is amply sufficient, but it is
essential that the operator should observe this cadence as the pantograph should
not be moved during the movement of the needles. The movement above
described may be made at the rate of 12 times a minute, but the machine would
be driven at the speed most convenient to the operator.
I will now describe some modifications of the machine above described. It has
been stated that tension devices were employed for the needle threads, each
formed of two small metal discs between which the thread is nipped, as in sewing-
machines. It is however difficult, or at least troublesome, and involves much loss

page_text: of time to obtain a uniform tension of all the threads by this means, as the nuts of
all the devices in each row require to be separately adjusted; and as a uniform
tension for all the needle threads is essential to the proper working of the machine,
I propose to enable the operator to apply simultaneously the same degree of tension
to all the threads in both ranges by means of the mechanism represented in front
elevation in Figure 28, in end elevation in Figure 29, and in plan in Figure 30;
Figures 31 and 32 show details in front and end view; n are the thread nipping
discs upon plain central stems 39 without tightening nuts. The spools are placed
on pins 40 and the threads therefrom are led between the discs. The pairs of
discs are respectively pressed upon by flat springs 55 slotted at their free ends to
pass over the pins 39, all the springs of each range being attached to the same
bar 52, one for each range. Each bar 52 has at each end a stirrup 53 provided
with a friction roller 54, and the two stirrups of each bar respectively embrace,
and their friction rollers take under bars 47, each of which has inclined slots 50, one
near each end, each traversed by a pin 51 fixed in a guide 49 in which the bar 47
is free to slide endwise. The two bars 47 are connected by arms 44 bolted to
them at 48, to the same crosshead 43 to which the arms 44 are extensibly connected
by studs 46 passing through slots 45 in the cross head which is grooved to receive
the arms 4+. This crosshead is attached to a screw threaded rod 42 upon which
screws a female screw or wing nut 41 mounted to turn in a bracket 26, but
incapable of longitudinal motion. By turning this nut the tension of all the spring
is regulated at once, for by turning it one way or the other the parts 42, 43, 44, 47,
are moved bodily to the left or right, as the case may be. In this endwise
movement of the bars 47 they are guided by the fixed pins 51 traversing the inclined
slots 50, and owing to the inclination of the slots, the bars 47 are raised or lowered
according to the direction in which they are moved, thereby raising or lowering
the bars 52 which are prevented from participating in the longitudinal notion of
bars 47 by the stirrups 53 abutting against the guides 49. The stress of all the
springs 55 is by this means varied at once and to a uniform extent.
Another modification consists in the substitution for the take up levers 38, shown
in Figure 2, which were operated by the needle bars, of mechanism entirely
independent of said needle bars receiving motion direct from the main shaft of the
machine whereby the slack is more quickly taken up. This mechanism is
represented in end view in Figure 33; 57 are rocking shafts formed of angle iron
bars extending the whole length of the machine and journalled at their ends in
bearings 58 fixed to the arms p; 59 are the take-up levers, one for each needle,
fixed in the rocking bars 57, and having their free ends bent and pierced with
eyes 60, through which the needle threads are led; 61 is a rod to which are
jointed short arms 62 fixed to the rocking bars 57. The rod 61 is moved upwards
by a cam 63 keyed on the main shaft y, and acting on a lever 64 pivoted at 65,
in a bearing 66, and connected by a link 67 to the rod 61, and this rod is moved
in the opposite direction by a spring 68. This action of the can is so timed that
when the needles 15 are withdrawn from the fabric, the rod 01 is suddenly raised,
thereby rocking the bars 57 and throwing back the whole of the take-up levers 60,
whereby the stitches are drawn tight, after which the spring 68 returns the parts
to their former position in readiness for the next stitch.
Another improvement is a presser bar consisting of a flat metal plate extending
the whole length of the machine, for pressing the fabric against the plate u
(Figures 11 and 23) to prevent the fabric being drawn back by the needles in their
return movement, and ensure the throwing out of the loops of the needle threads.
This presser bar is raised off the fabric by the levers which operate the needle bars
after the needles are withdrawn, to allow of the fabric being shifted by the
pantograph. This presser bar is represented in end view and plan in Figures 34
and 35, and consists of a flat plate 69 having holes (70) for the needles coinciding
with the holes v in the plate u, and attached to a half round bar 71 of the same
length supported by horizontal rods 72 attached to it near each end, and sliding in
a guide 73 similar to those (8) of the needle bars, and fixed like the latter to the

page_text: dovetailed rails r. Upon each rod 72 is a spiral spring 74 confined between
guides 73 and the bar 71, and pressing the plate 69 against the fabric. 76 is a
tappet fixed by a collar 75 to the rear end of each rod 72 and projecting in the
path of the lever 16, which operates one of the adjacent needle bars, so that when
the needles are caused by the oscillation of rock shaft and levers 16 to penetrate
the fabric, the springs 74 expand and hold the presser plate 69 pressed against the
fabric until the needles are completely withdrawn, whereupon the levers 16
continuing their backward movement strike tappets 76 and raise the presser
plate 69 off the fabric to permit of its being shifted by the pantograph.
Another modification consists in the form of the slot 10 of slide 8 by which the
needles are operated.
This improved form of slot is shown in Figure 36, and is designed to impart an
irregular rectilinear motion to the needles in order to facilitate the throwing out of
the loops. When the crank pin 7, which receives continuous uniform rotary
motion, raises slide S, the needles commence to enter the fabric, and on the crank
pin passing the swell 77 the slide 8 suddenly drops by its own weight, until the
side of the slot again comes in contact with the crank pin. By this means the
needles, which have commenced to pass through the fabric, are caused to make a
sudden return movement, whereby the thread is bent or doubled, in order to
prepare it to throw out the loop. The crank continuing its motion again raises
the slide, and the needles resume their forward movement, and on their return
movement, the thread having been prepared as above mentioned, the loop is
unfailingly thrown out. This has the further advantage that the needle need not
be exactly level with the shuttle races x, and the grooves therein may be made a
little deeper, as the loops will always be thrown out, and if there be a little play
in parts of the machine the needles will not be liable to strike and be blunted or
broken.
Another and very important advantage resulting from the certain throwing out
of the loop is that chenille, gold, silver, or other metallic or other threads of a
more or less inflexible nature, which it has not hitherto been possible to use, may
be employed for embroidering, whereby new or improved products may be obtained.
The Invention therefore includes not only the particular form of slot represented
in Figure 36, but consists broadly in imparting by any suitable arrangement of
mechanism a backward movement to the needles on entering the fabric as above
specified, to prepare the thread and cause it to throw out a loop.
Another modification consists in a means of preventing the machine being put
put of gear except when the needle and shuttle operating mechanism is at its
lowest position, and the needles are therefore withdrawn from the fabric, which
would be liable to injury were the machine stopped whilst the needles are still in
it, as the said mechanism, arranged as above described, falls very suddenly by its
own gravity.
This improvement consists in a latch which locks the clutch lever, and is caused
by a cam upon the main shaft to liberate it only at the moment when the needle
and shuttle operating mechanism is at the bottom of its stroke. Figure 37 shows
a plan, and Figures 38 and 39 details of this apparatus. y is the main shaft driven
by a belt on pulley 78 in one with the part 2 of the clutch. The part 3 which
slides on the other part of the shaft y is engaged or disengaged with part 2 by the
hand lever 4, connecting rod 79, lever 80, oscillating on a pivot 81, link 82, slide 83,
and for 84 fixed to slide 83 and embracing the clutch 3. 85 is the latch lever
pivoted at one end 86 on the guide 87, and pressed down by a spring 89 and
having at the other end a latch S8, which engages with the lever 80. 90 is a lever
oscillating on a horizontal axis 91 in a bearing 92, and slotted at one end to receive
a stud 94 on the end of latch 8S. 95 is a tappet on shaft y which in its rotation
strikes the other end of lever 90, oscillates it, and thereby receives the latch 88 out
of the way of lever 80. It will be seen that in the position shown in the Figures
the rod 79 cannot be moved in the direction of the arrow to disengage the clutch
owing to the latch 88 preventing the movement of lever 80, the parts remaining

page_text: thus locked until the needle operating mechanism reaches its lowest point, when
tappet 95 strikes, lever 90 raises latch SS, and so permits of the clutch being
thrown out of gear. When the machine is thrown into gear lever 80 slips under
the latch 88 and becomes locked thereby.
Another modification consists in driving the whole of the shuttlo carriers in the
two ranges by two bars (instead of by separate rods 20 for each shuttle carrier, as
shown in Figure 2) connected by rods, one at each end of the machine, sliding lin
guides upon the arms q and operated by the connecting rods 25 as before. This
arrangement renders the shuttles more uniform in their motion and simplifies the
construction of the machine; Figure 40 is a part front elevation of part of the
apparatus; Figure 41, a side elevation, and Figure 42, a plan of one of the shuttle
driving bars; 96 aro T iron bars extending the whole length of the machine
having a row of pins 97 to which the shuttle carriers 21 are connected. These.
two bars 96 are connected by two vertical cross bars 98 one at each end of the
machine, the middle portion being made of angle iron, and the two end
portions 99 cylindrical and sliding in guides 100 upon the arms q. The upper
bar 96 is connected by brackets 101 to the upper portion of bars 98, and the lower
bar 96 is connected by a similar bracket 102 fixed by a set screw 103 to the
cylindrical portion 99 to permit of regulating the distance between the bars 96 ;
104 is a stud on each bar 98, to which the rods 25, Figure 2, are connected for
raising and lowering the shuttle driving mechanisın.
Another modification consists in a novel arrangement of frame, by means of
which the fabric may be shifted in any direction, as well as the centre of
equilibrium of said frame, so as to permit of re-producing all kinds of patterns,
and of superposing, overlapping, or combining patterns at different distances, and
to enable the embroidered portion to be shifted, and that to be worked substituted
in its place without moving the frame itself. This improved frame is represented
in Figures 43 to 50, Figure 43 being a front view, Figure 44 a back view,
Figures 45 and 46, end views thereof; Figures 47, 48, and 49 show end, side, and
under side views of the mechanism for shifting the frame longitudinally; Figure 50
is a detail of a portion of the frame; 105 is a wooden crosshead, to which the
pantograph 106 is connected by a dovetailed slide 112 received in a corresponding
grooved guide 113 fixed to the crosshead 105. The slide 112 has rack teeth 114 at
the lower side, and gears with a pinion 115 on a spindle 116 mounted in the
guide 113, and operated by a crank handle 117, whereby the crosshead 105 may be
shifted horizontally by the sliding of 113 upon 112. To the ends of the cross-
head 105 are fixed vertical racks 107, with which gear pinions on a shaft 108
mounted in bearings 109 on the frame d and provided with ratchet, and pawl, and
crank handle 111, whereby the entire frame d carrying the fabric is suspended
from crosshead 105, and may be raised or lowered bodily instead of rolling and
unrolling the fabric, which requires much time to adjust it for the continuation of
the work in a fresh place; 118 are vertical guide rods fixed to the front side of
the frame dat each end, and 119 are adjustable stretcher bars, between which
the fabric is stretched in the vertical direction, said bars having ears 120 at the
ends, which can slide on rods 118 to adjust the bars to suit the width of the fabric
to be worked, and are fixed by set screws 121. The bars 119 are each formed of
two parts screwed together, one of which is provided with a groove 122 having an
inwardly projecting lip or flange to receive and hold the selvedge of the fabric,
which selvedge is corded to prevent it being drawn out of said groove; 123 are
vertical rollers at each end of the frame d, upon which the fabric is wound and
stretched lengthwise. These rollers turn in bearings 124 upon frame d and are
provided with ratchet wheels 125 and pawls to maintain the desired tension;
è, e, are horizontal rollers mounted in bearings fand provided with ratchets g upon
which rollers the fabric is wound when wider than the distance between a pair of
stretchers 119. In this case the width of the fabric would be limited by the
length of the machine as usual.
The frame is used as follows:-Suppose it is desired to embroider at a distance

page_text: of 12 centimetres a strip of fabric 30 centimetres wide with repeats of 6, 8, 10, or
even 12 centimetres. The fabric, which may be of any length, has a corded edge
of such thickness that it will be retained in the groove 122, but capable of being
drawn lengthwise through the groove. The pairs of stretchers 119 are placed at a
distance apart about equal to the width of the fabric, and the aorded edges are
drawn lengthwise through the grooves 122, and one end of the fabric is wound on
one of the vertical rollers 123 and the other end upon the other roller, whereby the
fabric is well stretched in a horizontal direction. Tension is then imparted to it in
the vertical direction by the bars 119, care being taken to obtain the desired
tension by moving the lower bar only of each pair. As a design of 12 centimetres
when enlarged six times for the pantograph involves a motion of the latter through
72 centimetres, the instrument is very difficult to operate, as the balance of the
parts is destroyed more and more in receding from the centre of equilibrium. In
the machines of this Invention this inconvenience would be still greater than in
ordinary machines, as the limit of its work is determined by the facility with
which the pantograph is worked. To make 20 stitches a minute it is necessary
that this operation should be easy and without fatigue, as the speed having been
once fixed the operator cannot alter it, and if owing to any fault in the balance of
the mechanism he cannot follow with the pantograph the motion of the machine
the needles will be broken. It is therefore necessary to compensate for this want
of balance in the case of large patterns, in which there is necessarily too great &
deviation from the centre of equilibrium, and this is effected by shifting the
frame & laterally 1, 2, 3, 4, 10, or 12 centimetres to the right or left by turning the
handle 117. The pattern of 72 centimetres is thus divided up, so to speak, into
strips of any desired width, and the centre of equilibrium is shifted laterally to
any point desired, each centimetre of the fabric corresponding to 6 centimetres on
the pattern.__
What has been above stated with regard to the lateral shifting also applies to
the vertical shifting of the frame by means of handle 111 and racks 107, whereby
the centre of equilibrium of the pantograph is shifted in a vertical sense to the
extent desired. The pattern of 72 centimetres is thus virtually divided into as
many small squares as desired, and all patterns whose repeats are within 12
centimetres may be executed without the necessity of rolling the fabric and joining
the design, which is so difficult to effect after rolling. By means of the bars 119 and
their fixing devices 120 the time occupied in mounting is considerably abridged, and
the hooks ordinarily employed, which are very liable to injure delicate fabrics, are
dispensed with. The most important advantage, however, is that fabrics of greater
width than the length of the machine can be embroidered, which could not be done
hitherto. The embroidered portion is rolled up on one of the vertical rollers 123,
and the remainder of the piece is presented to the needles without interruption
other than necessary to allow the operator to make the stylus of the pantograph
correspond with the terminal stitch of the rolled up portion. In this manner
pieces of from 10 to 12 metres may be embroidered instead of being limited to
4 metres, or the length of the machine, which is invariable.
The Invention also comprises further modifications in the form of some of the
parts, whereby the movements of the machine are simplified and a considerable
gain in speed and precision are obtained. These improvements are represented in
Figures 51 to 55, and consist in a modified form of needle and needle bar, and also
in needle operating mechanism, whereby the needle is made to perform the function
hereinafter described. The needle bar before described (Figure 9) may be replaced
by the one shown in Figures 51 and 53. The part 126 forming the base S is fixed
on a flat dovetailed rail by a screw 127, and can be adjusted thereon according to
the distance desired between the repeat of the design. The base 120 is flat on the
upper side, and its nose has a triangular groove 130, in which the stump of the
needle fits exactly, and upon this flat surface is a pivoted covering plate 128
turning upon a screw 133, by which it is fixed to the part 126. This plate closely
covers the groove in which the needle is held, and its underface has a cross groove

page_text: curved to the arc of a circle which engages with a lug 135 on the stump of the
needle and locks it in the needle bar. The cover has a thumb knob 132 at its tail
end, whose stem passes through the cover to form a stop, which is received in a
notch in part 126 when the cover is closed. The point and stem of the needle are
of the same form as that previously described, so far as the needle is caused to
enter the fabric in the automatic working of the machine, but from this point it
increases quickly in size in the form of a quadrilateral pyramid with sharp edges,
as shown in Figure 52. It is reduced to a triangular form at the part which lies
in the groove of the bar 126, and its flat upper side lies flush with the surface of
the part 126, except the lug 135, which projects above this surface and engages in
the notch of the covering plate, as above mentioned. By moving this cover to one
side a new needle may be readily inserted with perfect accuracy. The quadrangular
part of the needle is intended for use as a piercer, and it is then operated in the
manner hereafter described.
For this purpose the following modification of the parts are necessary.
In Figure 14 the fork 11 forms part of the slide 8 and moves the connecting
rod 12 directly; but in the arrangement shown in Figures 54 and 55, the fork 11
forms part of the connecting rod and the pin with which it engages is on the slide.
The fork 11 is pivoted to the flat side of the connecting rod 12 by a bolt 141, and
it is locked in position by a removable key 139. By making the fork 11 movable
the needles can be worked independently of the main shaft for making eyelet or
other holes, and for this the ordinary rate of motion of the machine would be too
rapid, and would cause the fabric to be torn or break the needles, and for this
delicate operation manual agency is required. In order to disconnect the machine
for this purpose it is stopped, the key 139 is turned round and withdrawn, and the
fork turned up on its pivot. The lower end of the connecting rod has a rounded
part upon which a cam 137 acts in a gradual manner operated by a hand lever 138.
The cam 137 is mounted upon a strong cross bar 136 between the uprights a, a, of
the frame. The connecting rod at the other end of the machine is similarly dis-
connected, and operated by a similar cam actuated by the cam 137 at 142. The
hand lever 138 is within reach of the operator's right hand when seated, while his
left hand grasps the pantograph. When it is desired to use the needles as
perforators, the hooks 11 are disconnected, as described, and the lever 138 is pressed
gradually forwards more or less according to the kind of hole to be made, whereby
the part 140 of the cam pushes back the fork 11 and raises the connecting rod.
The eyelet holes are enlarged by giving a slight circular movement to the
pantograph after the needles have penetrated the fabric up to about the middle of
the sharp angled portion of their shanks. When the lever handle is drawn back
the connecting rod descends, and this movement should be carefully performed to
avoid shocks.
When the connecting rods are raised, as above described, the whole of the needlo
bars are moved forward by lever 16 (Figure 53), and the connecting link 16' which
causes the slides of the rail which carries the needle bars to slide upon their
guide rods p'. The needles are moved forward until their quadrangular shanks
have sufficiently penetrated the fabric, the operation being completed if necessary
with the aid of the pantograph.
When the needles are operated by hand for this purpose the shuttles remain at
rest, as it is necessary that they should do; and this also is effected by the dis-
connection of the needle operating mechanism from the main shaft.
Having described the nature of the said Invention, and the manner of performing
the same, I declare that what I claim as the Invention to be protected by the
herein before in part recited Letters Patent is,―
1st. An embroidering machine in which each needle is supplied with a
continuous thread, substantially as herein described for the purpose specified.
2nd. The employment in an embroidering machine in which the fabric stretched
on a frame is shifted by a pantograph at each stitch made, of the combination of
needles and shuttles (the former at one and the latter at the other side of the

page_text: fabric) operating as in a sewing machine, and the mechanism for operating them,
substantially as described and shown in Figures 1 to 27.
3rd. In an embroidering machine, the mechanism for ensuring uniform tension
of all the needle threads of both ranges, substantially as described and shown in
Figures 28 to 32.
4th. In an embroidering machine working with continuous threads, the employ-
ment of take up mechanism for the needle threads, independent of the needle bars,
and operated directly from the main shaft, substantially as herein described and
shown in Figure 33.
5th. In an embroidering machine working with continuous threads, the employ-
ment of a presser bar consisting of a flat metal plate extending the whole length of
the machine, and arranged and operated substantially as herein described and
shown in Figures 34 and 35.
6th. The form of the cam in the slide of the needle operating mechanism,
substantially as hereindescribed and represented in Figure 36 for the purpose
specified.
7th. In an embroidering machine working with continuous threads, the com-
bination of mechanism whereby the machine can only be stopped when the needle
and shuttle operating mechanism is at its lowest point, substantially as herein-
described and represented in Figures 37, 38, and 39.
8th. In an embroidering machine using continuous threads, the mechanism for
operating the shuttle carriers, substantially as herein described and shown in
Figures 40, 41, and 42 for the purpose specified.
9th. In an embroidering machine working with continuous threads, the con-
struction of the frame whereby the fabric and the centre of equilibrium of the said
frame may be shifted in all directions, substantially as hereindescribed and
-illustrated in Figures 43 to 50 for the purpose specified.
10th. The construction of the needle holder, substantially as described and
represented in Figure 51 for the purpose specified.
11th. The form of the needle and its use in an embroidering machine for the
purpose of a piercer, substantially as hereindescribed and represented in Figure 51.
12th. The construction and arrangement of the various parts, substantially as
hereindescribed and represented in Figure 53 for the purpose specified.
13th. The combination of mechanism applied to an embroidering machine for
operating the needles alone by handpower for the purposes of piercers, substantially
as described and illustrated in Figures 54 and 55.
14th. The application to other machines of the various combinations of
mechanism above described, whether employed together or separately..
In witness whereof, I, the said Alexander Melville Clark, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Thirteenth day of May, A.D. 1882.