IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF TWILLED FABRICS FOR COVERING UMBRELLAS, SUNSHADES, AND PARISOLS
Year: 1873

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LETTERS PATENT to John Samuel Mignot, of 38, Squirries Street,
Bethnal Green Road, London, Silk Manufacturer, for the Invention
of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF TWILLED FABRICS FOR
COVERING UMBRELLAS, SUNSHADES, AND PARISOLS."
Sealed the 3rd October 1873, and dated the 25th July 1873.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said John Samuel Mignot
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on
the 25th July 1873.
I, JOHN SAMUEL MIGNOT, of 38, Squirries Street, Bethnal Green
Road, London, Silk Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of the
said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF TWILLED FABRICS
FOR COVERING UMBRELLAS, SUNSHADES, AND PARISOLS," to be as follows:-
The object of my Invention is to produce a material for covering
umbrellas, sunshades, and parisols (which I call novusmollisdensus),
having greater opacity and apparent thickness, together with greater
softness and durability, and at a less cost than the fabrics heretofore

page_text: used for that purpose of equal weight, and made of similar material of
equal quality and fineness.
My Invention consists in the arrangement of the tie, the twil being
produced, according to my Invention, by raising and lowering the warp
in groups of equal number, three, four, or more threads to a group, and
thus passing the weft alternately under and over an equal number of
the warp, those raised being one thread more to the right or left each
time. The twil may be wove from right to left or from left to right,
from back to face or from face to back; and in working with this tie in
silk I am able to use certain kinds of silk, which are cheaper than those
which are used in weaving umbrella silks as heretofore made, whereby
as well as by the increased facility of working I am able to produce my
said material at a much lower cost, and at the same time its durability
is increased by its softness and lessened liability to become creased as
compared with the materials heretofore used:
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said John Samuel Mignot, in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 24th January 1874.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL. COME, I, JOHN
SAMUEL MIGNOT, of 38, Squirries Street, Bethnal Green Road, London,
Silk Manufacturer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Twenty-fifth day of July, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-three, in the thirty-
seventh year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors,
give and grant unto me, the said John Samuel Mignot, Her special licence
that I; the said John Samuel Mignot, my executors, administrators, and
assigns, or such others as I, the said John Samuel Mignot, my executors,
administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no
others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the
term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise,
and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the
Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
THE MANUFACTURE OF TWILLED FABRICS FOR COVERING UMBRELLAS, SUNSHADES,

page_text: AND PARASOLS," upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said John
Samuel Mignot, my executors or administrators, by an instrument in
writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should
particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and
in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to
be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months
next and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said John Samuel Mignot, do hereby
declare the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same
is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement, reference being had to the accompanying
Sheet of Drawings or Diagrams forming part of this Specification :-
My Invention relates to the manufacture of twilled silks, such as are
used for covering the frames of umbrellas, sunshades, and parasols, and
consists in the production of a material (which I call novusmollisdensus)
intended for the said purpose, having greater opacity and apparent
thickness, together with greater softness and durability, and at a less
cost than the fabrics heretofore used for that purpose of equal weight,.
and made of similar material of equal quality and fineness by means of
certain arrangements of the tie, the twill being produced according to
my Invention by raising and lowering the ends of warp in groups of
equal number, and thus passing the weft alternately under and over an
equal number of the warp, those raised being one thread more to the
right or left, as the case may be, for each successive pick. The twill
may be wove from right to left or from left to right, from back to face
or from face to back; and in working according to this Invention I am
able to use silk, as, for instance, Chinese and Japanese, which is less
even and cheaper than that ordinarily used in weaving umbrella silks as
heretofore made, whereby as well as by the greater facility of working,
according to my Invention, as compared with working in the manner
heretofore employed, I am able to produce my said material at a lower
cost, at the same time that by the disposition of warp and weft herein
described, its opacity is rendered greater and its softness and consequent
durability are materially increased as compared with the twilled silks.
heretofore used.
In order that my said Invention may be fully and readily understood by.

page_text: same, and for that purpose shall refer to the several Figures on the Sheet
of Drawings or Diagrams hereunto annexed, on which are represented the
drafts, which show the order in which the ends of warp are lifted, and
also figures representing small portions of the cloth drawn to an enlarged
scale, the threads being represented farther apart than they are in fact
to give greater clearness to the Drawings.
The vertical lines 1st, 2nd, &c., represent the ends of warp, the
numerals the order in which they are drawn in, that is to say, through
the dents, but the number of ends of warp through each dent may be
varied to suit the quality and size of the warp and the fineness of the
comb or reed without otherwise affecting the manner of working, or
the result. The presence of a cross on the intersection of any one of the
said lines representing the ends of warp with any of the horizontal lines
numbered 1st, 2nd, &c., representing the picks indicates that the said
end is to be lifted for that pick.
I will first describe Fig. 2, which shows the method of weaving
according to my Invention on eight lammes raising four, that being the
description which will probably be principally in request. Four ends of
warp are drawn through each dent of the reed. For the first pick or
shoot of the weft I lift the first four lammes, viz., those numbered in
the Diagram 1, 2, 3, & 4, raising thereby the first four ends of warp,
and every alternate four throughout the series, viz., the 1st, 2nd, 3rd,
& 4th, 9th, 10th, 11th, 12th, and so on. For the second pick I lift the
second and three following lammes, viz., those numbered 2, 3, 4, & 5,
raising the 2nd and three following ends of warp and every alternate
four throughont the series, viz., the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, & 5th, 10th, 11th, 12th,
& 13th, and so on. For the third pick I lift the third and three
following lammes, viz., those numbered 3, 4, 5, & 6, raising the third
and three following ends of warp and every alternate four throughout
the series, viz., the 3rd, 4th, 5th,. & 6th, 11th, 12th, 13th, & 14th, and
so on. For the fourth pick I lift the fourth and three following
lammes, viz., those numbered 4, 5, 6, & 7, raising the fourth and three
following ends of warp and every alternate four throughout the series,
viz., the 4th, 5th, 6th, & 7th, 12th, 13th, 14th, & 15th, and so on. For
the fifth pick I lift the fifth and three following lammes, viz., those
numbered 5, 6, 7, & 8, raising the fifth and three following ends of
warp and every alternate four throughout the series, viz., the 5th, 6th,
7th, & 8th, 13th, 14th, 15, & 16th, and so on. For the sixth pick I

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lift the first lamme and last three lammes, viz., those numbered 1, 6, 7,
& 8, raising the first and every alternate four ends of warp throughout
the series, viz., the 1st, 6th, 7th, 8th, & 9th, and so on. For the seventh
pick I lift the two first and two last lammes, viz., those numbered 1, 2,
57, & 8, raising the 1st, 2nd, and every alternate four ends of warp
throughout the series, viz., the 1st, 2nd, 7th, 8th, 9th, & 10th, and
so on. For the eighth pick I lift the first three lammes and the last
lamme, viz., those numbered on the Diagrams 1, 2, 3, & 8, raising the
first three and every alternate four ends of warp throughout the
series, viz., the 1st, 2nd, & 3rd, 8th, 9th, 10th, & 11th, and so on, which
completes the course. For the 9th pick I lift as for the first, and so
repeat them in the order just given.
Fig. 1 shows the method of weaving on six lammes, raising three.
Three ends of warp, as shewn in the Diagram, are drawn through each
dent of the reed, but 2, 4, 5, or 6 may be drawn through each dent if
desired. The arrangement and manner of working are similar to that
just described, except so far as is consequent on the smaller number of
lammes. For the first pick I lift the first three lammes. For the
second, the 2nd, 3rd, & 4th. For, the third, the 3rd, 4th, 5th. For
the fourth, the 4th, 5th, & 6th. For the fifth, the 1st, 5th, & 6th.
For the sixth, the 1st, 2nd, & 6th, and so on, as shewn in the Diagram.
Fig. 3 shews the method of weaving on ten lammes, raising five,
four ends of warp being drawn through each dent in the reed. Five
lammes are raised for each pick, following each other in regular suc-
5 cession, as indicated in the Diagram and in manner similar to those
previously described.
Figures 1º, 2º, & 3ª represent small portions of the fabric produced as
above described on 6, 8, and 10 lammes, respectively drawn to an
enlarged scale, the threads being represented farther apart than they are
in fact to give greater clearness to the Drawings.
The same arrangement and method of weaving may be adopted with
any larger even number of lammes, but as the manner of application of
the method to such larger number is perfectly obvious, and will be
readily understood from the description already given it is not necessary
to describe such application farther in detail, more especially as the use
of any such larger number produces a fabric which is inferior in some
respects to that produced, as herein-before particularly described.

page_text: Having now fully described and ascertained the nature and object of
my said Invention, and in what manner the same may be conveniently
and advantageously carried into practice, I would observe that what I
consider new and original, and therefore claim as the Invention secured
to me by the herein-before in part recited Letters Patent is, the manu-
facture of a twilled silk fabric for covering the frames of umbrellas,
sunshades, and parasols by raising and lowering the ends of warp in
groups of equal number in the manner herein-before described.
In witness whereof, I, the said John Samuel Mignot, have here-
unto set my hand and seal, this Twenty-third day of January, 1
in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-
four.
JOHN SAMUEL MIGNOT. (L.S.)
Witness,
NEWNHAM BROWNE,
Patent Agent,
29, Ironmonger Lane,
Cheapside,
E.C.