IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES
Year: 1879

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Joseph Etienne Perrachon, of Lyon, Department of the
Rhône, Mechanical Engineer, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING
MACHINES."
Sealed the 28th November 1879, and dated the 5th June 1879.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Joseph Etienne Perrachon
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 5th June 1879.
JOSEPH ETIENNE PERRACHON, of Lyon, Department of the (Rhône), Mechanical
Engineer. IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES,"
"
The object of my machine, termed the universal sewer, which is illustrated
on the accompanying two Sheets of Drawing, upon which similar letters and
numbers indicate similar parts in each of the Figures respectively, consists,-1°. In
the rapidity of execution with which it produces all kinds of back-stitch sewing,
describing any kind of curve, either for angles or for the most varied forms of
curves, and especially for work of rather large dimensions.
Hitherto, upon all the shuttle machines termed back-stitch machines, it is neces-
sary in order to describe a curve, to cause the fabric to slide under the presser-foot,
which is somewhat difficult, for when the curve is rapid or sharp it is necessary to
go slowly and to cause the work being sewn to turn under the presser-foot. For
example, when a circle or circuit presents itself upon an article, such as a dress,
robe, or other somewhat bulky or voluminous object, it becomes necessary in order
to execute the stitching to pass the whole bulk of the work or fabric from left to
right under the arm of the machine, which causes a great loss of time and no less
difficulty to watch at the same time the pattern and the passage around the machine
of the article upon which the sewing is being done.
With my macbine all these difficulties disappear, for instead of turning the work
or article being sewn, it is the needle and the presser foot which turn and carry it
with them in every direction, whereby I obtain great saving of time and very
superior execution as regards regularity.
Another equally great advantage is the following:-Upon all existing sewing
machines, when the machinist nears an angle or the end of a seam it is necessary
to lessen the speed of the machine in order to stop at the required point, and when
[Price 10d 1

page_text: the seams are short this loss of time is considerable. Loss of time for stopping and
loss of time for starting again, often repeated, becomes a serious loss to the worker.
With my machine, by the aid of a disengaging or disconnecting gear worked by
the left foot, I obtain, without gradually lessening the speed, an instantaneous
stoppage at 1 stitch, 2 stiches, and so on, that is to say, at any moment and at any
desired spot.
2°. In the application of the braid.
Braiding is done by existing sewing machines, but with the same inconveniences
or defects as for the sewing, but greatly amplified; for braiding, being an ornament
intended as an advantageous substitute for chain stitch embroidery, inasmuch that
as it may be applied of any desirable breadth and width, and that it is applied
with the most elegant possible art and taste, there results a series of curves, volutes,
Grecian designs, and so on, and thereby a quantity of angles which lead to a great
loss of time.
There is an embroidering machine which applies the braid, but with two very
serious inconveniences; firstly, it places the braid underneath, so that the work-
woman or machinist cannot see her work until it is completed, consequently any
fault in the execution of the work, such as the breaking of the braid or other
accident, is not seen until a considerable length of work has been done, which work
must subsequently be undone. The second difficulty arises from the sewing being
a chain stitch; the underside of the work is thickened by this kind of embroidery;
further, there is very little strength in it, and the chain stitch has been abandoned
in all important sewing, because the breakage of a single stitch results in the
almost instantaneous undoing of a considerable length of seam; there is also a
loss of profit as the chain stitch employs a greater quantity of thread than the back
stitch.
With my "universal sewer" these faults are avoided; firstly, it places the braid
on the top in sight of the machinist; again, it gives strength and economy with
the back stitch.
All these advantages are produced by the turning movement of the shuttle and
of the needle, the presser foot being made to rotate with them; secondly, by the
disconnecting or disengaging gear fitted to my machine. I therefore draw par-
ticular attention to these two points, as they are the fundamental basis of the
advantages obtained by my system.
My machine is composed of a plate or bed (No. 38 on the Drawings), of an arm
(No. 52, Sheet 1) screwed on to the said bed, at the end of which arm is the head
of the machine (No. 23); through the inside of this arm passes a central shaft
(No. 42, Sheet 1), at one end of which is a fly wheel (No. 55, Sheet 1), over which
passes the cord or belt of the main driving wheel, placed under the table and
driven by a treadle worked by the right foot of the machinist. It is this fly
wheel (No. 55, Sheet 1) which drives the machine; between it and the arm of the
machine is a clutch (No. 47, Sheet 1), screwed on to the shaft; this clutch forms
part of the disconnecting gear. The flywheel (No. 55, Sheet 1) may turn freely
without carrying with it the shaft upon which it is set, but it can neither advance
or recede along it, for on one side is the clutch (No. 47, Sheet 1), and on the other
a steel washer and a nut screwed on to the end of the central shaft.
Upon this clutch is made a groove parallel with the central shaft, and into this
groove or recess enters a small lever fixed to the clutch by a pin which serves as an
axle to it; in the flywheel, parallel with and very near the central hole, is made a
rectangular hole into which enters a little square piece held by a pin let into the
flywheel (No. 55, Sheet 1); between this piece and the top of the rectangular hole
is placed a slight spring which presses on the said piece and upholds it on the side
of the central shaft. The extreme end of the lever comes against the end of the
piece let into the flywheel, and this end is bevelled as well as that of the lever;
when the machine is working the lever pushes the piece against the spring and the
top of the rectangular site or seat of the flywheel, the extreme end of the lever
towards the flywheel is lowered against the central shaft, and the heel of the said

page_text: lever is raised; at this point is a piece (No. 46, Sheet 1), which in lowering inter-
cepts the passage of the heel of the said lever, causes it to lower and lifts the
extreme end on the side of the flywheel, and at this moment the piece which is
sunk in the flywheel passes between the central shaft and the lever without
touching it; in this way the flywheel becomes disengaged and continues its rotary
movement without working the machine.
To obtain the vertical movement of the piece No. 46, Sheet 1, of the disengaging
gear, the left foot is used pressing upon a treadle, at the end of which is fixed the
rod No. 49, Sheet 1, corresponding with the piece, No. 48, Sheet 1, held on the
support No. 51, Sheet 1, of the bed plate between the fork and the pinion shaft by
a screw which forms its axle.
By pressing with the point of the foot the machinist lifts the piece No. 46,
Sheet 1, and sets the machine at work; by pressing with the heel she lowers the
same piece (No. 46, Sheet 1), and instantly stops the machine without lessening
the speed of the flywheel. But as the piece No. 46, Sheet 1, doos not intercept the
passage of the heel of the lever, except at one point, the machine is always dis-
engaged or thrown out of gear in the same position.
This disengaging gear is that which I especially adapt to my system or construc-
tion of machine, but any other kind of disconnecting gear might also be fitted
to it without altering its movements or working.
On the same central shaft (No. 42, Sheet 1) is an eccentric (No. 53, Sheet 1)
which by the aid of a connecting rod (No. 45, Sheet 1), gives the rocking or
pivoting motion to the forked piece (No. 28), the forked end of which enters
the groove of the sliding collar. No. 27, a, b, c, Sheet 2, and compels it to
make its rectilineal movement on the support for the shuttle race (No. 30, a, b, c,
Sheet II.).
The plate or bed has two supports or brackets cast of one piece with it, the one
(No. 37) for the crank (No. 35) and its toothed gearing, the other (No. 51, Sheet 1),
to receive the axle upon which moves the forked piece No. 28, and further, the
longitudinal shaft No. 39, having a bevel pinion at each end, one of which gears
with another pinion (No. 54, Sheet 1), fixed on the shaft of the crank No. 35, while
that at the other end drives in its turn that fixed on the vertical shaft (No. 44,
Sheet 1), at the end of which is another horizontal shaft (No. 43, Sheet 1), passing
under the arm of the machine and also provided with a bevel pinion at each end,
one gearing with that on the vertical shaft (No. +4, Sheet I.), and the other with
the pinion (No. 50, Sheet 1), of the needle bar holder (No. 1).
The shaft of the crank carries two toothed wheels, the one a bevil pinion (No.
54, Sheet I.), fixed on the middle of the said shaft, and the other a flat toothed
wheel (No. 34, Sheet 2, Fig. B) fixed upon its end, which drives a similar wheel
(No. 33), this latter gearing with the wheel (No. 32, a, b), fixed on the support for
the shuttle race, so that upon this race support there is placed the entire mechanism
required for the movement of the shuttle, and which is carried with it in its rotary
motion. It follows that when the machinist works the cranks No. 35, this
inovement is conformably reproduced upon the needle-holder and the supports for
the shuttle-race.
Now the needle holder (No. 1) having the lower part of its rod of a square shape
and sliding in the pinion No. 50, Sheet 1, the hole in which is of the same shape as
well as that of the cone No. 13, Sheet 2, and of the piece No. 14, a, b, c, Sheet 2,
upon which is fixed the stock or holder of the presser foot, the result is that when
the needle-holder or needle-bar (No. 1, a, b) receives a rotary movement from the
pinion No. 50, Sheet 1, it communicates it to the presser foot, and it is therefore by
the movement of the crank that the machinist guides the work.
The needle-bolder (No. 1, a, b,) may also have a round stem with a feather
taking into a slide or slot made in the pieces No. 50, Sheet 1, and 13, 14,
Sheet 2.
At the other end of the central shaft (No. 42, Sheet 1), on the side towards the
head of the machine are the eccentrics Nos. 7 and 8, Sheet 2, Fig. D. which

page_text: communicate the following motions, 1°, that No. 7, Sheet 2, lifts the presser-foot by
the aid of the following pieces:-A piece No. 9, Fig. A, Sheet 2, fixed by an axle
behind the head of the machine which uplifts the piece No. 11, the fork of which
is engaged in a groove made around the piece No. 14, Sheet 2, upon which the
presser foot stock or holder No. 15, Sheet 2, is placed. The other eccentric No. 8,
Fig. D, Sheet 2, actuates the presser foot to make it produce the length of stitch
by the aid of the cone No. 13, a, b, Sheet 2, which is also provided with a groove
into which enters the piece No. 12, Sheet 2, which is lowered by the piece No.
10, a, b, Fig. A, Sheet 2, provided with a roller upon which rests the said
eccentric.
On one of the sides of these eccentrics is an axle (No. 6, Fig. D, Sheet 2), having
a roller (No. 5, Fig. D, Sheet 2, which penetrates into the interior of the cam No.
4, Sheet 2, and by its circular motion causes the needle holder to move up and
down by the aid of the piece No. 3, Sheet 2, upon which the cam No. 4, Sheet 1, of
the machine is fixed.
The presser foot is kept against the bed plate (No. 38) by the aid of a double
action spring pressing on the one side upon the piece, No. 11, Sheet 2, and on the
other under the piece No. 12, which it keeps raised.
On one of the sides of the head of the machine (No. 23) is a screw (No. 24, Sheet
2), which in lowering limits the movement of the cone (No. 13, Sheet 2), by
pressing on the end of the piece No. 12, Sheet 2, therefore it is by limiting the
journey of the cone that a stitch of more or less length is produced because the cone
in lowering pushes the presser-foot holder No. 15, Sheet 2, the said presser-foot
holder is kept pressed against the cone by the aid of a small spring fixed on the
piece No. 14, Sheet 2.
On the opposite side of the head of the machine is placed a piece (No. 25, Fig. A,
Sheet 2), with a ring through which the thread passes.
The bevel pinion No. 50, Sheet 1, which gives the rotary movement to the
needle bar or needle holder is kept at the driving height by the aid of a forked
piece (No. 56, Sheet 1), which takes into a groove on the axle of the bevel pinion,
No. 50, Sheet the said piece is held fixed to the head of the machine by the aid
of a screw and of a stud or pin, and keeps the two pieces, Nos. 11 and 12, in position
in the slide in the head of the machine, on this same piece, No. 56, Sheet 1, is fixed
a small lever which lifts the presser-foot by the aid of a pin d, No. 11, Sheet 2, when
the machinist takes the work from under the needle.
At the bottom of the head of the machine is fitted a circular ring (No. 21. a, b,
Sheet 2), upon which is placed the braid reel or spool holder (No. 20, a, b, c, Sheet
2), the said ring is held in position by the end of two screws (No. 22, Sheet 2),
which enter a groove made in the base of the head of the machine (see Fig. A,
Sheet 2), the ring being thus permitted to turn freely. When braiding is to be
done the said ring is fitted with the braid spool holder (No. 20, a, b, c, Sheet 2),
which embraces the presser-foot holder (No. 15, a, b, c, Sheet 2) so that the presser
foot in turning takes it with it.
The braid moving towards the presser foot passes through a small channel or
guide (No. 19, Fig. C, Sheet 2) which is changed according to the width of the
braid and comes out towards the needle, tho said channel is held by the aid of
the bridle, No. 16, Fig. C, Sheet 2, which also secures the presser foot to its
holder.
The pressor-foot (No. 17, Fig. C, Sheet 2), is composed of two pieces (see same
Figure) one, No. 17, Sheet 2, and another (No. 18, Sheet 2), which is a ring toothed
or roughened for drawing along the fabric, which ring when fitted in the piece No.
17, moves freely within it so that the presser foot turns without carrying the ring
with it in its rotary movement.
The forked piece No. 28, which drives the shuttle has at one of its ends a hole
into which enters a pin held to the said forked piece by a screw, the said pin
terminates with a cap or socket in which is fixed the connecting rod (No. 45, Sheet
1), the other end of the forked piece has two holes provided with two small friction

page_text: blocks (No. 29, see Fig. B, Sheet 2), which circulate in the groove made in the
sliding collar No, 27, a, b, c, Sheet 2. Thus the forked piece producing by the aid
of the eccentric, No. 53, Sheet 1, its rocking motion causes the sliding collar No. 27,
a, b, c, Sheet 2, to move up and down along the rod of the support for the shuttle
race (No. 30, a, b, c, Sheet 2), and in this journey it meets the curve of the driver
No. 26, a, b, c, Sheet 2, in rising it pushes the said driver or propeller; in lowering
it brings it back, and thereby the shuttle (No. 41, a, b, c, Sheet 2) is driven in or
drawn along the curve of the shuttle race (No. 31, a, b, c, Sheet 2), the said race is
fixed on the support for the shuttle race by two screws (a, a,) the race-holder has
three screws (b, b, b), which serve to retire the race when the needle is being changed
for a thicker one.
The support for the shuttle race (No. 30, a, b, c, Sheet 2), has fixed on its top by
three screws with countersunk heads a toothed wheel (No. 32, a, b, Sheet 2), having
an axle in the middle of which is made a hole for the passage of the needle, this
axle takes with nicety into a hole made in the bed plate to permit the rotary
motion of the support for the shuttle-race (No. 30, Sheet 2).
The support for the shuttle race has also at the end of its rectangular rod or stem
a pin which enters a support (No. 40), the said support is fixed under the bed
plate by the aid of screws and keeps the support for the shuttle race in its vertical
position while permitting it to rotate.
The shuttle driver moves on an axle No. 30, Sheet 2, set by a screw near the
rectangular end of the carriage holder.
The machine (Sheet 1) is represented thrown out of gear; in the longitudinal
Figure in the middle of the arm (No. 52) may be seen the tension gear of the needle
thread, and a little behind it the rod upon which the reel or spool of thread is
placed; the thread starting from this spool passes between the two small tension
plates upon which is a spring pressed upon at pleasure by a nut screwing on to the
central rod of the tension apparatus, from thence it passes under the little guard
(see No. 3, b, Sheet 2), enters the ring of the spiral drawer (No. 3, b, Sheet 2),
repasses under the guard, descends into the hole of the piece No. 25, Fig. A, Sheet
2, rises again and enters the needle holder which is pierced from end to end, as
shown in section No. 1, Sheet 2, and comes out towards the needle.
Sheet No. 1 also represents the braid spool holder in position with a spool
without braid and the presser foot is freed froin the guide No. 19, Fig. C, Sheet 2.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said Joseph Etienne Perrachon in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
2nd December 1879.
JOSEPH ETIENNE PERRACHON, of Lyon, Department of the (Rhône), Mechanical
Engineer. "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES."
The object of my machine, termed the "universal sewer," which is illustrated
on the accompanying two Sheets of Drawing, upon which similar letters and
numbers indicate similar parts in each of the Figures respectively, consists,
First. In the rapidity of execution with which it produces all kinds of back-
stitch sewing, describing any kind of curve, either for angles or for the most varied
kind of curves, and especially for work of rather large dimensions.
Hitherto, upon all the shuttle machines termed back-stitch machines, it is neces-
sary in order to describe a curve, to cause the fabric to slide under the presser-foot,
which is somewhat difficult, for when the curve is rapid or sharp, it is necessary_to
go slowly, and to cause the work being sewn to turn under the presser-foot. For
example, when a circle or circuit presents itself upon an article, such as a dress or
robe, or other somewhat bulky or voluminous object, it becomes necessary in order
to execute the stitching, to pass the whole bulk of the work or fabric from left to
right under the arm of the machine, which causes a great loss of time, and no less
difficulty to watch at the same time the pattern and the passage around the machine
of the article upon which the sewing is being done.
With my machine all these difficulties disappear, for instead of turning the work
or article being sewn it is the needle and the presser-foot which turn and carry
it with them in every direction, whereby I obtain great saving of time and very
superior execution as regards regularity.
Another equally great advantage is the following:-Upon all existing sewing
inachines when the machinist nears an angle or the end of a seam it is necessary to
lessen the speed of the machine in order to stop at the required point, and when
the seams are short this loss of time is considerable; loss of time for stopping and
loss of time for starting again, often repeated, becomes a serious loss to the worker.
With my machine by the aid of a disengaging or disconnecting gear worked by
the left foot, I obtain without gradually lessening the speed, an instantaneous
stoppage at one stitch, two stitches, and so on, that is to say, at any moment,
and at any desired spot.
Second. In the application of the braid,-
Braiding is done by existing sewing machines, but with the same inconveniences
or defects as for the sewing, but greatly amplified, for braiding being an ornament
intended as an advantageous substitute for chain stitch embroidery, inasmuch that
as it may be applied of any desirable breadth and width, and that it is applied
with the most elegant possible art and taste, there results a series of curves,
volutes, Grecian designs, and so on, and thereby a quantity of angles which lead to
a great loss of time.
There is an embroidery machine which applies the braid, but with two very
serious inconveniences, firstly, it places the braid underneath, so that the workman
or machinst cannot see her work until it is completed, consequently any fault in
the execution of the work, such as the breaking of the braid or other accident, is
not seen until a considerable length of work has been done, which work must
subsequently be undone; the second difficulty arises from the sewing being a chain
stitch, the underside of the work is thickened by this kind of embroidery; further
there is very little strength in it, and the chain stitch has been abandoned in all
important sewing because the breakage of a single stitch results in the almost
instantaneous undoing of a considerable length of seam; there is also a loss of
profit, as the chain stitch employs a greater quantity of thread than the back
stitch,

page_text: With my universal sewer these faults are avoided; firstly, it places the braid on
the top in sight of the machinist; again, it gives strength and economy with the
back stitch.
All these advantages are produced by the turning movement of the shuttlo and
of the needle, the presser foot being made to rotate with them; secondly, by the
disconnecting or disengaging gear fitted to my machine. I therefore draw
particular attention to these two points, as they are the fundamental basis of the
advantages obtained by my system.
My machine is composed of a plate or bed (No. 38, in the Drawings) of an arm
(No. 52, Sheet I.) screwed on to the said bed, at the end of which arm is the head
of the machine (No. 23), though the inside of this arm passes a central shaft (No.
42, Sheet I.) at one end of which is a fly-wheel (No. 55, Sheet I.), over which passes
the cord or belt of the main driving-wheel placed under the table and driven by a
treadle worked by the right foot of the workman; it is the flywheel (No. 55,
Sheet I.), which drives the machine; between it and the arm of the machine is a
clutch (No. 47, Sheet I.) screwed on to the shaft, this clutch forms part of the
disconnecting gear. The fly wheel (No. 55, Sheet J.) may turn freely without
carrying with it the shaft upon which it is set up, but it can neither advance or
recede along it, for on one side is the clutch (No. 47, Sheet I.), and on the other a
steel washer and a nut screwed on to the end of the coutral shaft.
Upon this clutch is made a groove, parallel with the central shaft, and into this
grooveor recess enters a small lever fixed to the clutch by a pin, which serves as
an axle to it; in the By wheel parallel with and very near the central hole, is
made a rectangular hole into which enters a little square piece held by a pin
let into the fly wheel (No. 55, Sheet I.) between this piece and the top of the
rectangular hole is placed a slight spring, which presses on the said piece and
upholds it on the side of the central shaft. The extreme end of the lever comes
against the end of the piece let into the fly wheel, and this end is bevelled as
well as that of the lever; when the machine is working, the lever pushes the piece
against the spring and the top of the rectangular site or seat of the flywheel; the
extreme end of the lever towards the fly wheeel is lowered against the central
shaft, and the heel of the said lever is raised; at this point is a picce (No. 46,
Sheet I.) which in lowering intercepts the passage at the heel of the said lever,
causes it to lower, and lifts the extreme end on the side of the flywheel, and at this
moment the piece which is sunk in the flywheel passes between the central shaft
and the lever without touching it, in this way the flywheel becomes disengaged,
and continues its rotary movement without working the machine.
To obtain the vertical movement of the piece No. 46, Sheet I., of the disengaging
gear the left foot is used pressing upon a treadle, at the end of which is fixed the
rod No. 49, Sheet I., corresponding with the piece No. 48, Sheet I, held on the
support No. 51, Sheet I., of the bed plate between the fork and the pinion shaft by
a screw which forms its axle.
By pressing with the point of the foot the machinist lifts the piece No. 46, Sheet I.,
and sets the machine at work; by pressing with the heel she lowers this same
piece (No. 46, Sheet I.) and instantly stops the machine without lessening the
speed of the fly-wheel. But as the piece No. 40, Sheet I., does not intercept the
passage of the heel of the lever except at one point the machine is always disen-
gaged or thrown out of gear in the same position.
This disengaging gear is that which I specially adapt to my system or construction
of machine, but any other kind of disconnecting gear might also be fitted to it
without altering its movements or working.
On the same central shaft (No. 42, Sheet I.) is an eccentric (No. 53, Sheet I.)
which, by the aid of a connecting rod (No. 45, Sheet I.), gives the rocking or
pivoting motion to the forked piece (No. 28), the forked end of which enters the
groove of the sliding collar, No. 27, a, b, c, Sheet II., and compels it to make its
rectilineal movement on the support for the shuttle race (No. 30, a, b, c, Sheet II.)
The plate or bed has two supports or brackets cast of one piece with it one (No. 37)

page_text: for the crank (No. 35) and its toothed gearing, the other (No. 51, Sheet I.) to
receive the axle upon which moves the forked piece (No. 28), and further, the longi-
tudinal shaft (No. 39) having a level pinion at each end, one of which gears with
another pinion (No. 54, Sheet I.) fixed on the shaft of the crank No. 35, while that
at the other end drives in its turn that fixed on the vertical shaft No. 44, Sheet I.,
at the end of which is another horizontal shaft (No. 43, Sheet I.) passing under the
arin of the machine, and also provided with a bevel pinion at each end, one gearing
with that on the vertical shaft (No. 44, Sheet I.), and the other with the pinion
(No. 50, Sheet I.) of the needle bar holder (No. 1).
The shaft of the crank carries two toothed wheels, the one a bevil pinion (No.
54, Sheet I.) fixed on the middle of the said shaft, and the other a flat toothed
wheel (No. 34, Sheet 2, Fig. B) fixed upon its end which drives a similar wheel
(No. 33), this latter gearing with the wheel (No. 32, a, b,) fixed on the support for
the shuttle race, so that upon this race support there is placed the entire mechanism
required for the movement of the shuttle, and which is carried with it in its rotary
motion. It follows that when the machinist works the crank No. 35 this movement
is conformably reproduced upon the needle holder and the support for the shuttle
race.
Now the needle holder (No. 1) having the lower part of its rod of a square shape
and sliding in the pinion No. 50, Sheet I., the hole in which is of the same shape, as
well as that of the cono No. 13, Sheet 2, and of the piece No. 14, a, b, c, Sheet 2,
upon which is fixed the stock or holder of the presser-foot, the result is, that when
the needle holder or needle bar (No. 1, a, b,) receives a rotary movement from the
pinion No. 50, Sheet I., it communicates it to the presser foot, and it is therefore
by the movement of the crank that the machinist guides the work.
The needle-holder (No. 1, a, b,) may also have a round stem with a feather taking
into a slide or slot made in the pieces No. 50, Sheet I., and 13, 14, Sheet 2).
At the other end of the central shaft (No. 42, Sheet I.) on the side towards the
head of the machine are the eccentrics Nos. 7 and 8, Sheet 2, Fig. D, which com-
municate the following motions 1st. :-That No. 7, Sheet 2, lifts the presser foot by
the aid of the following pieces:-A piece No. 9, Fig. A, Sheet 2, fixed by an axle
behind the head of the machine, which uplifts the piece No. 11, the fork of which
is engaged in a groove made around the piece No. 14, Sheet 2, upon which the presser
foot stock or holder No. 15, Sheet 2, is placed. The other eccentric No. 8, Fig. D,
Sheet 2, actuates the presser foot to make it produce the length of stitch by the aid
of the cone No. 13, a, b, Sheet 2, which is also provided with a groove into which
enters the piece No. 12, Sheet 2, which is lowered by the piece No. 10, a, b, Fig. A,
Sheet 2, provided with a roller upon which rests the said eccentric.
On one of the sides of these eccentrics is an axle (No. 6, Fig. D, Sheet 2,) having
a roller (No. 5, Fig. D, Sheet 2,) which penetrates into the interior of the cain No. 4,
Sheet 2, and by its circular motion causes the needle holder to move up and down
by the aid of the piece No. 3, Sheet 2, upon which the cam No. 4, Sheet 2, of the
machine is fixed.
The presser foot is kept against the bed plate (No. 38) by the aid of a double
action spring pressing on the one side upon the piece No. 11, Sheet 2, and on the
other under the piece No. 12, which it keeps raised.
•
On one of the sides of the head of the machine (No. 23) is a screw (No. 24,
Sheet 2) which in lowering limits the movement of the cone (No. 13, Sheet 2) by
pressing on the end of the piece No. 12, Sheet 2, therefore it is by limiting the
journey of the cone that a stitch of more or less length is produced, because the cone
in lowering pushes the presser foot holder No. 15, Sheet 2. The said presser foot
holder is kept pressed against the cone by the aid of a small spring fixed on the
piece No. 14, Sheet 2.
On the opposite side of the head of the machine is placed a piece (No. 25, Fig. A,
Sheet 2) with a ring through which the thread passes.
The bevel pinion No. 50, Sheet I., which gives the rotary movement to the
needle bar or needle holder is kept at the driving height by the aid of a forked

page_text: piece (No. 56, Sheet I.) which takes into a groove on the axle of the bevel pinion
No. 50, Sheet I.; the said piece is held fixed to the head of the machine by the aid
of a screw and of a stud or pin, and keeps the two pieces Nos. 11 and 12, in
position in the slide in the head of the machine; on this same piece, No. 56, Sheet I.,
is fixed a small lever, which lifts the presser-foot by the aid of a pin (d, No. 11,
Sheet 2), when the machinist takes the work from under the needle.
At the bottom of the head of the machine is fitted a circular ring (No. 21, a, b,
Sheet 2), upon which is placed the braid reel or spool holder (No. 20, a, b, c, Sheet 2);
the said ring is held in position by the end of two screws (No. 22, Sheet 2), which
enters a groove made in the base of the head of the machine (see Fig. A, Sheet 2),
the ring being thus permitted to turn freely. When braiding is to be done the said
ring is fitted with the braid spool holder (No. 20, a, b, c), which embraces
the presser-foot holder (No. 15, a, b, c, Sheet 2), so that the presser foot in turning
takes it with it.
The braid moving towards the presser foot passes through a small channel or
guide (No. 19, Fig. C, Sheet 2), which is changed according to the width of the
braid and comes out towards the needle; the said channel is held by the aid of the
bridle (No. 16, Fig. C, Sheet 2, which also secures the presser-foot to its holder.
The presser-foot (No. 17, Fig. C, Sheet 2) is composed of two pieces (sec same
Figure), one, No. 17, Sheet 2, and another (No. 18, Sheet 2), which is a ring
toothed or roughened for drawing along the fabric, which ring when fitted in a
piece No. 17 moves freely within it, so that the presser-foot turns without carrying
the ring with it in its rotary movement.
The forked piece No. 28 which drives the shuttle has at one of its ends a hole,
in which enters a pin held to the said forked piece by a screw; the said pin
terminates with a cap or socket, in which is fixed the connecting rod (No. 45,
Sheet I.); the other end of the forked piece has two holes provided with two small
friction blocks (No. 29, see Fig. B, Sheet 2), which circulates in the groove made in
the sliding collar No. 27, a, b, c, Sheet 2. Thus the forked piece producing by the aid
of the eccentric No. 53, Sheet I., its rocking motion causes the sliding collar (No. 27,
a, b, c, Sheet 2, to move up and down along the rod of the support for the shuttle
race (No. 30, a, b, c, Sheet 2, and in this journey it meets the curve of the driver
No. 26, a, b, c, Sheet 2; in rising it pushes the said driver or propeller; in lowering
it brings it back, and thereby the shuttle (No. 41, a, b, c, Sheet 2), is driven in
or drawn along the curve of the shuttle race (No. 31, a, b, c, the said race is
fixed on the support by the shuttle race by two screws (a, a,); the race holder has
three screws (b, b, b,) which serve to retire the race when the needle is being changed
for a thicker one.
The support for the shuttle race (No. 30, a, b, c, Sheet 2) has fixed on its top by
three screws with countersunk heads a toothed wheel (No. 32, a, b, Sheet 2)
having an axle, in the middle of which is made a hole for the passage of the needle,
this axle takes with nicety into a hole made in the bed plate to permit the rotary
motion of the support for the shuttle race No. 30, Sheet 2.
The support for the shuttle race has also at the end of its rectangular rod or
stem a pin which enters a support (No. 40), the said support is fixed under the bed
plate by the aid of screws and keeps the support for the shuttle race in its vertical
position while permitting it to rotate.
The shuttle driver moves on an axle s, No. 30, Sheet 2, set by a screw near the
rectangular end of the carriage holder.
The machine (Sheet I.) is represented thrown out of gear; in the longitudinal
Figure in the middle of the arm (No. 52) may be seen the tension gear of the
needle thread, and a little behind it the rod No. 57 upon which the reel or
spool of thread is placed; the thread starting from this spool passes between the
two small tension plates, upon which is a spring pressed upon at pleasure by a nut
under
screwing on to the centre rod of the tension apparatus, from thence it passes
the little guard (see No. 3, b, Sheet 2), enters the ring of the spiral drawer (Fig.
No. 3, b, Sheet 2), repasses under the guard, descends into the hole of the piece (No. 25,

page_text: Fig. A, Sheet 2), rises again and enters the needle holder, which is pierced from end
to end, as shown in section (No. 1, Sheet 2), and comes out towards the needle.
Sheet No. 1 also represents the braid spool holder in position with a spool
without braid, and the presser foot is freed from the guide (No. 19, Fig. C, Sheet 2).
In witness whereof, I, the said Etienne Perrachon, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Twenty first day of November, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy nine.
I E PERRACHON
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