Year: 1886

page_text: We ANTOINE SIRET of 1 Quai d'Austerlitz Paris, France, Weaver, and JULES
LÉON FERDINAND SAULNIER of Roubaix (Nord) France Merchant do hereby declare
the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to a loom by which coloured woollen warps are entwined with
and secured to ground warps so as to form the loops of velvet pile fabrics. The
ground warps are all held in separate thin bobbins somewhat like those used in lace
machines and these bobbins are arranged side by side and held by ears projecting
upwards and downwards from the bobbin frames between an upper and a lower rail.
On the upper rail are fitted two sliding clutches which can engage with all the
alternate bobbins, one clutch taking the 1st, 3rd, 5th &c. and the other taking
the 2nd 4th 6th &c. By means of these clutches on raising the upper rail either
every alternate bobbin can be raised, or all of the bobbins can be raised together; the
rails also can be moved transversely carrying with them all the bobbins engaged by
them; also on the lower rail there is a comb projecting upwards and on the upper rail
a comb projecting downwards. In front of the bobbins swings the batton which
carries a comb reed, and again in front of this is a beam over which the fabric passes
to a winding beam below.
Behind the bobbins is mounted on a horizontal axis a drum having arms along each
of which are mounted a number of small beams each carrying one of the coloured
warps which are to form the pile. Thus there may be 6 arms to the drum, and there
may be 10 of these small beams mounted along each side of each arm, so that the
drum may carry 120 beams of coloured warp. These being arranged according to a
particular order predetermined by the pattern, the workman has only to turn the drum
round so as to present towards the front of the loom the particular coloured warps
required for a particular part of the pattern, all these being engaged side by side on a
lath or strip held by catches on the periphery of the drum. The workman having
turned the drum so as to bring the strip carrying the required coloured warps to the
front, passes this strip with its warps first through between the upper and lower bars
of a guide frame that can be raised and lowered between the drum and the bobbins ;

page_text: then, having raised the upper rail from the bobbins which remain resting on the lower
rail, he passes the warps on under the upper rail and through the batten, engaging
them on its comb, and finally he attaches the strip of warps to catches above the
beam over which the fabric passes. He can now, by working treadles, lower the
guide frame thus causing the coloured warps to pass down between the bobbins and
to become engaged on the lower comb, he can engage the bobbins to the upper rail
and raise them clear above the coloured warps which by a lateral movement of the
lower rail and its comb can be moved transversely, he can make the bobbins descend
again, and the coloured warps again ascend in spaces between the bobbins different
from those in which they descended, he can raise every alternate bobbin and thus make
a shed of the ground warp for passage of the weft, and finally he can throw the weft
and strike up with the batten, having thus entwined with the ground warp those
coloured warps which are to form the pile of the pattern. The order and amount of
the movements can be varied so as to entwine the warps in various ways.
Dated this 2nd day of October 1886.

page_text: We, ANTOINE SIRET of 1 Quai d'Austerlitz, Paris, France, Weaver and JULÉS LÉON
FERDINAND SAULNIER of Reubaix (Nord) France, Merchant, do hereby declare
the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This invention relates to a loom for weaving pile carpets of the Smyrna kind, and
other similar pile fabrics, wherein woollen warps are tied round ground warps by
special mechanisms, producing a pile of the Smyrna kind, and wherein bobbins carrying
the different colored woollen yarns which serve to form the pile are mounted upon a
revolving drum by which they are brought into action as desired. These bobbins
carrying the different colored yarns have their position alternated by the operator
according to a determined order so as to produce the required design, without the
use of Jacquard apparatus.
The construction and operation of the loom for the above purpose will be readily
understood on reference to the accompanying drawings in which Fig. 1 shews a
longitudinal section of the loom, Fig. 2 a front view, Fig. 3 a view of the right hand
side and Fig. 4a view of the left hand side. Figs. 5 to 16 shew details of construction,
Figs. 17 to 28 show the various positions of the principal parts which together effect
the formation of the pile and which correspond to the various phases of the work;
Fig. 29 shews in plan the formation of the pile and Figs. 30 and 31 shew in section
and plan a diagram of a Smyrna pile fabric with three passages of weft between each
two consecutive pile points.
The ground warp threads A are wound upon narrow metal bobbins a situated in
annular bobbin carriers B in which they are held by studs b b on the bobbin carriers
entering between the cheeks of the bobbins a. This arrangement is shewn clearly at
Figs. 5 and 6 which shew a bobbin carrier in section and several in side view. One
of the studs 6 terminates in an eye through which passes the thread of the bobbin a
which is besides guided through an eye c of the bobbin carrier Fig. 5.
The bobbin carriers B B supply the threads of the ground warp, and are conse-
quently equal in number to that of these threads. The bobbin carriers terminate
at top and bobbin in feet G G₁ of which the lower ones G serve to support and guide
them upon the beam I on which they rest, while the upper feet G¹ serve to raise the
said bobbin carriers by means of a beam I' having suitable clutching mechanisms for
connecting the bobbin carriers therewith. The bobbin carriers have for this
notches dd on the front or back face; the notches of two opposite
alternate, that is to say, if one has its notch on the front face the other has it on the
back face.

page_text: In front of the notches d d are placed bars ee Fig. 7 that can be shifted on the
beam I', to which they are connected by slides. Ordinarily springs ff bearing on the
rods g hold the two bars e away from the feet G₁ of the bobbin carriers.
The engaging movement of the bars e is obtained by means of two hooked levers
15, 16, Figs. 5 and 7, connected to rods g fixed on the axes h; these also carry cranks i
to which are connected tails j on the bars e e.
In actuating the hooked levers 15, 16 the teeth k of the bars enter the notches d d
of the bobbin carriers and connect them with the beam 1¹.
The loom is worked by a single treadle F which is depressed eight times for forming
one point of the farbic. The treadle F is connected to a lever H fixed on the upper
shaft K on which are fixed other articulated levers L which actuate a moveable bar M
having counterweights M and which actuates all the parts of the loom by means of
levers provided with hooks 1 to 16 which, in turn, hook on to the moveable bar and
thus actuate the parts to which they are connected.
For this purpose the levers are held out of reach of the bar M by means of springs
and they are put in gear with the said bar by means of studs m situated at suitable
points on the drums N.
These drums are fixed on a shaft O and are turned an eighth of a revolution at each
step by means of a pawl and ratchet wheel n fixed on the shaft O, the drums being
maintained in position at each step by a disc o with eight dwells on which presses a
spring arm.
The levers 3, 4, 7, 8, 9, 10, 12, 13, 15 and 16 are provided with hooks similar to
that shewn at Fig. 13, those 1, 2 and 14 as shown at Fig. 14, and the one 5 as shown
at Fig. 15, while 6 and 11 engage with those 7 and 10.
On the beams I I¹ slide combs QQ Fig. 12 which are actuated by rods p; they are
attached to pivotted pieces actuated by tappets r that act on the tails of the pieces q.
The shifting of the pieces q is so arranged that the comb Q shifts laterally to an
extent equal to the interval separating two threads of the warp to the right, and that
the comb Q shifts laterally to an extent double that of the interval separating two
threads of the warp.
The threads of the wool warp proceed from a drum D which can turn on its axis
and carries bobbins or rollers vv containing woollen threads. The drum D has on its
periphery rods t over which pass the threads coming from the rollers vv; there are as
many rods t as there are rollers and each roller carries the wool warp threads, the
number of which is the same as that of the ground warp threads A, and each of these
rollers in its turn supplies the lengths of wool required to form the pile of each point
of the fabric.
บ
For obtaining designs by weaving care must be taken to arrange the threads of
different colors upon each roller and the rollers on the drums D so as to have
only to apply successively to the several rollers v to obtain from each the lengths of
thread for one point or several points of the fabric, and to reproduce by this means
automatically the desired design. The drum D provided with its separate rollers v
consequently permits of the production of designs ou pile fabrics with the use of
Jacquard apparatus. The drum is turned, after the formation of each point, either
by hand or by means of a ratchet wheel fixed on a shaft & having a worm y gearing
with a worm wheel z fixed on the shaft of drum D. It is held stationary during
the work by means of a cam with four dwells ¹ on which bears a spring arm.
The ends of the threads of each roller vare nipped upon a flat bar E by a second
bar with two elbows K¹ held by loops a¹ on the flat bar E as shewn in Figs. 8
and 9.
Each rod t carries on its ends the bars E on which are nipped the threads of the
wool warp. The wool coming from the roller v which is in action is kept stretched
by a suitable tension mechanism, such as the clutch mechanism shewn at b¹ b³
Figs. 4 and 16. In actuating the lever 6 the clutch is made to engage with the
extremity of the roller which is at work. The loom has furthermore an articulated
batten P having teeth p p between which pass the threads of the ground warp.
A portion of this batten is shewn in elevation at Fig. 11 and it is so arranged that

page_text: it can be shifted laterally. In front of the bobbin carriers B B is placed a frame N¹
provided with two horizontal bars and capable of being raised and lowered by the
movement of the loom. The fabric produced passes over the roller L' and is wound
up on the roller R.
For producing a point of the fabric shewn at Figs. 30 and 31 the following
operations are performed.
The
1st Phase. The treadle is depressed once, whereupon tappets on the drums N cause
the levers 7 and 10 to engage with the moveable bar M; these levers, being fixed
to the beam I', raise the same empty (Fig. 17) in order to allow of the passage
of the bar on which are nipped the ends of the threads of one of the rollers v.
beam I is then kept suspended by the hooks c¹ of the levers 6 and 11 which are
hinged to a beam fl. The lever 13 is hinged to the sway heam h¹ the end of which
causes two levers h³ ³ to oscillate, on which are pivotted arms ³ which take hold
of a bar E by means of their ends * and transport it to Fig. 1, passing between
the two bars of the frame N¹, for which purpose these levers slide upon rollers h³.
The threads of the wool warp thus pass through the frame N¹ between the bobbin
carriers and the raised beam I, and lastly over the teeth of the batten, thus engaging
with the threads of the bar E between the teeth.
The treadle is then depressed a second time, the levers 12, 13, 7 and 10 are in gear,
12 causes the frame N¹ to descend by means of a band g' attached to a pulley fixed
on the same shaft g³ as a second pulley g' on which is fixed a strap attached to the
frame N¹. Arrived at the end of the stroke, tappets cause the levers 6 and 11
to be disengaged from 7 and 10 in order to cause the beam I¹ to descend when the
treadle is left free.
This first phase of the work is shown at Figs. 17, 18 and 19, which show the
positions of the several working parts of the loom as also a diagram showing the
position of a wool warp thread C relatively to the ground warp threads A in proximity
thereto and which come from the bobbin carriers B.
2nd Phase (Figs. 20 and 21). At the third depression of the treadle the hooks 2, 5,
15 and 16 are in gear. The hook 2 pivotted to the sway beam i¹ fixed on the shaft
causes the beam I to descend by means of the levers the hook 5 having first
caused the frame N₁ to be lowered for engaging the wool warp threads C between the
teeth of the comb Q. The hooks 15 and 16 have causeed to be engaged all the bobbin
carriers which remain suspended; by this stroke of the treadle the comb Q is actuated
and causes the threads of the wool warp C to pass from the right to the left of the
ground warp, as shown on the diagram Fig. 20.
In releasing afterwards the treadle the hook 2 raises the beam I again and the
loom is then in the position of rest.
3rd Phase (Figs. 22 and 23). The hooks 7, 10 and 3 are in gear and those 6 and 11
are disengaged; by this fourth stroke of the treadle the hooks 7 and 10 raise the
beam I', the frame N₁ is raised for engaging the wool warp threads between the
teeth of the comb Q. The beam I being at the bottom of its stroke, the comb Q¹
moves laterally to the right so as to cause all the wool warp threads to pass over two
threads of the ground warp, as shewn on the diagram Fig. 22.
By this same movement the hook 3 actuates by means of levers a cam with
inclined plane whereby the batten in being actuated is also caused to shift two
divisions to the right. On then releasing the treadle the beam I' descends and
comes to rest as shown at Fig. 23.
4th Phase (Figs. 24 and 25). The treadle being depressed a fifth time, the
hooks 2, 5, 15 and 16 are put in gear, the hook 2 causes the beam I to descend while
15 and 16 put in gear all the bobbin carriers which remain suspended, and 5 causes
the frame N to descend, which brings the wool warp threads between the teeth
of the comb Q. This being actuated causes the said threads to shift from the right
to the left of the ground warp threads, as shown on the diagram of Fig. 24; that is
to say, in the spaces of these threads where they were situated before the first phase.
On then leaving the treadle free the beam I and frame N' rise, and the parts are
at rest.

page_text: 5th Phase. The bar E is then disengaged from the wool warp threads by separating
therefrom the cranked bar K¹, and the batten is moved one stroke. The treadle
is then depressed for the sixth time, the hooks 14, 1, 15, 8 and 9 are in gear, 14 and 1
cause the beam I to descend; 15 engages the uneven numbers of bobbin carriers, and
8 and 9 in raising the beam I raise one half of the ground warp threads while the
other half have descended with the beam I, as shown at Fig. 26.
A warp thread V is then shot and the treadle is allowed to rise.
It is then depressed a seventh time; the hooks 14, 1, 16, 8 and 9 are engaged,
16 engages the even number of bobbin carriers, 14 and 1 cause the beam I to descend,
8 and 9 raise the beam I as shewn at Fig. 27, and a second weft thread is shot.
The treadle is then depressed an eighth time; the hooks 14, 1, 15, 8 and 9 are
in gear, 15 engages the uneven numbers of bobbins, 14 and. Í lower the beam I,
8 and 9 raise the beam I' as shewn at Fig. 28; a third weft thread is shot, the
-batten is moved one stroke, and the treadle is left free.
Lastly, the bar E is placed below all the wool warp threads, in applying its edge
against the last weft thread that has been shot, and the bar K' is passed over these
threads in engaging it under the loops a¹ so as to nip all the wool warp threads,
and a knife is passed along the groove m¹ of the bar E. The point thus completed
has two tufts of the same length and it only remains to replace in its position on the
drum D the bar E on which are nipped the wool warp threads which have served for
making a point of the tissue. This point is similar to the Smyrna point, only differing
from this in that the two tufts are raised on each side of the part of the wool which
lies across two threads of the ground warp, while in the ordinary Smyrna point both
the tufts project up from the same side of such part.
The above described operations are repeated with another roller
warp threads, and so on.
carrying the wool
The framing of the loom has guides in which work the frame N¹, the moveable
bar M and the beams I I.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what we claim is :-
manner
1. The construction of looms for weaving pile fabrics wherein the various colored
wool threads are carried on rollers mounted on a revolving drum in a
corresponding to the design of the fabric to be produced, the threads of each roller
being made to furnish successively the tufts of wool intended to form the pile of the
fabric substantially as herein described.
2. The use in looms for manufacturing pile fabrics of moveable independent bobbin
carriers containing bobbins having the ground warp threads and which by their
movement allow of the working of the wool warp as also the passage of the weft
threads in the fabric, substantially as herein described.
3. The use for the purpose of shifting the bobbin carriers referred to in the
preceding claim, of a moveable beam which engages over the bobbin carriers, and can
be connected thereto by a clutch mechanism actuated by the motion of the loom,
substantially as herein described.
4. The use for working the wool warp threads of a frame for vertically displacing
these threads in combination with two combs that can be shifted laterally in one
direction or the other by suitable mechanism, at the time of the movement of the
beams that actuate the bobbin carriers of the ground warp, substantially as herein
described.
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