IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES, AND IN APPLIANCES TO BE ATTACHED THERETO AND USED THERE WITH.
Year: 1874

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Newton Wilson, of High Holborn, in the County
of Middlesex, Sewing Machine Manufacturer, for the Invention of
"IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES, AND IN APPLIANCES TO BE ATTACHED
THERETO AND USED THERE WITH.
"

page_text: the shuttle in its race by the too early drawing up of the loop of needle
thread and the consequent striking of the shuttle against the cover plate
of the shuttle race, should it have been inadvertently left open, is
entirely obviated. Morcover the strain upon the cotton is considerably
diminished, and the noise or click incidental to the ordinary check lover
or thread controller is avoided.
Secondly. To an improved mode of actuating the presser foot appli-
cable to all sewing machines having an under feed, whereby increased.
facility is afforded for manoevring the cloth in any desired direction by
the hand of the operator. The above heads of Invention are specially
applicable to the class or type of sewing machine known as the
"Singer."
Thirdly. To an improved arrangement specially applicable to the above
type of sewing machine, whereby such machine can be conveniently
driven either by hand or by means of a treadle.
Fourthly. To a peculiar attachment for sewing machines, whereby
plaited work suitable for trimmings and other purposes can be readily
produced in such machines without the necessity for skilled operators.
According to the first part of my Invention I mount the check lever
or thread controller on a fixed centro behind the needle slide, but dispense
with the ordinary spring action, the said lever working with just suffi-
cient friction to prevent it from dropping by its own weight. This may
be accomplished in various ways; for example, by having a friction
blade spring pressing upon the boss of the lever, which is enlarged for
the purpose, or by having side friction blade springs inserted in the cap
of the machine and in front of the needle bar. This lever prodrudes
through a slot in the needle slide, and is lowered when the slide descends
in the usual manner, as is well understood, but when the slide ascends
the check lever in lieu of instantly commencing to rise with it makes a
perceptible pause or dwell in its depressed position before it commences
to rise, by which arrangement ample time is afforded to allow the shuttle
to pass through the loop of the needle thread before that loop is drawn
up by the joint ascent of the needle slide and check lever. The lifting
of the check lever in fact is effected by a positive motion derived from
the needle slide in lieu of by a spring acting on the lever itself. This
positive motion is produced by the lower end of the slot in the needle
slide striking against the lever and lifting it, but this does not take place
until after the needle has performed a portion of ats ascent.

page_text: According to the second part of my Invention I mount the lever
which is usually known as the "vibrator"
upon an adjustable centre
consisting of an eccentric boss, which is adjusted by turning it more or
less on its fixed stud or pivot by means of a short projecting arm for that
the
purpose. By this arrangement I am enabled to so regulate and vary
action of the "vibrator as to enable the machine to operate with equal
facility upon the thinnest and thickest materials.
""
According to the third part of my Invention I attach the herein-before
mentioned type of sewing machine by the hinges which usually connect
it to the wooden table to a portable iron base, having an interior dished
plate cast within it, which forms a receptacle for the waste oil. The act
of closing the hinges secures the machine in its place by a self-acting
catch or bolt. The ordinary fly wheol of the machine is in this arrange-
ment mounted loose upon a stud below the horizontal shaft, and carries
a spur wheel which gears into a pinion on the shaft above, imparting
thereto a speed of 3 stitches to one revolution of the driving shaft. As
the fly wheel is grooved on its periphery the machine can be operated
either by hand or by foot with equal facility.
According to the fourth part of my Invention I attach a peculiar self-
acting plaiting appliance by screws or otherwise, so as to be readily
removeable, to the head of a sewing machine. This appliance consists
essentially of the combination of a reciprocating knife-edged bar or blade,
with a tappet wheel containing one or more tappets, and rotated by a
pall-and-ratchet motion derived from the needle cam, slide, or vibrating
arm. The stem of the knife-edged bar works by a slot in its upper end
on a fixed pivot in the bracket or frame of the attachment, and is held
in a forward position or drawn towards the needle by a spring or springs.
An adjustable screw is fitted into the stem of the plaiter, and is acted
upon by one or more revolving tappets, the axis of which works in the
bracket or frame of the attachment, and carries a ratchet wheel, which is
actuated by a spring lever pall: This lever pall derives its vibrating
motion either direct from the needle cam or from the needle slide itself,
or from the vibrating needle lever when such is employed. At each
descent of the needle the pall turns the ratchet wheel one or more teeth,
and thereby causes the tappets to revolve. As each tappet passes the
end of the adjustable screw it lifts the plaiter clear of the fabric, and at
the same time moves it backwards. On the tappet passing over the end
of the screw it releases the plaiter, and allows it to drop on to the fabric,

page_text: the spring or springs at the same time drawing it forward so as to cause
it to tuck a fold or plait under the front of the presser foot. By changing
the number of tappets in the tappet wheel it is obvious that the fullness
of the plaiting may be varied, as the greater the number of tappets the
greater will be the number of plaits for any given number of stitches.
Moreover by varying the length of the said tappets plaits of any given
width may be produced. It will therefore be convenient to employ
different patterns of tappet wheels, to be changed according to the nature
of the work to be produced. The backward or return stroke of the pall
lever may be regulated by an adjustable stop screw, which causes the
pall to tako fewer or more teeth at each stroke. When it is desired to
make these plaits by hand, in lieu of by the self-acting mechanism herein.
before described, I make the knife-edged bar or plaiter bifurcated, and
with teeth or serrations on the ends of the two limbs, such teeth being
bent at or about right angles to the surface of the plaiter. This appli-
ance is conveniently shaped to be held in the hand of the operator, and
it is pushed forward at suitable intervals so as to gather up the work
into plaits, which it tucks under the presser foot. The bifurcated form
of the plaiter enables it to operate past both sides of the presser foot.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Newton Wilson in the Great Seal Patent Offico
on the 21st June 1875.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, NEWTON
WILSON, of High Holborn, in the County of Middlesex, Sewing Machine
Manufacturer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Twenty-first day of December, in the
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-four, in
the thirty-eighth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and suc-
cessors, give and grant unto me, the said Newton Wilson, Her special
license, that I, the said Newton Wilson, my executors, administrators,
and assigns, or such others as I, the said Newton Wilson, my cxccutors,
administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no
others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the term

page_text: "
therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the
Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS
IN SEWING MACHINES, AND IN APPLIANCES TO BE ATTACHED THERETO AND USED
THEREWITH, upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said
Newton Wilson, my executors or administrators, by an instrument in
writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should
particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and
in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to
be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months
next and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Newton Wilson, do hereby declare
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to
be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement thereof, reference being had to the accompanying
Sheets of Drawings and to the letters and figures marked thereon, that
is to say :-
My said Invention relates,-
First. To an improved "check lever" arrangement for drawing up
the loop of the needle thread in reciprocating shuttle machines, whereby
the breakage of the teeth of the driving gear arising from the lifting of
the shuttle in its race by the too early drawing up of the loop of the
needle thread, and the consequent striking of the shuttle against the
cover plate of the shuttle race, should it have been inadvertently left
open, is entirely obviated. Moreover the strain upon the cotton is con-
siderably diminished, and the noise or click incidental to the ordinary
"check lever" or thread controller is avoided.
Secondly. To the adjustment of the presser foot, applicable to all
sewing machines having an under feed, whereby increased facility is
afforded for manovring the cloth in any desired direction by the hand of
the operator. The above-mentioned heads of Invention are more specially
applicable to the class or type of sewing machine known as the " Singer"
family machine.
Thirdly. To an improved arrangement of base or stand and of the
driving gear for actuating the above type of machine, whereby greater
cleanliness is ensured, and the said machine can be conveniently driven
either by hand or by means of a treadle at will.

page_text: Fourthly. To a peculiar attachment for sewing machines, whereby
plaited work suitable for trimmings and other purposes can be readily
produced in such machines without the necessity for skilled operators.
And in order that my said Invention may be fully understood I shall
now proceed more particularly to describe the same, and for that purpose
shall refer to the several Figures on the explanatory Sheet of Drawings
hereunto annexed, the same letters of reference indicating corresponding
parts in all the corresponding Figures.
Figure 1 (Sheet 1) of my Drawings represents a side elevation partly in
section of a sewing machine of the class or type known in the trade as
the "Singer" family machine, to which the improvements referred to in
the first three heads of Invention herein-before mentioned are applied;
Figure 2 is a corresponding front elevation of the machine showing in
transverse section the base or stand to which it is hinged; Figure 3 is
a partial transverse vertical section and elevation of the driving end of the
machine showing the arrangement of gearing therefor; and Figures 4
and 5 are enlarged details of the parts for regulating or adjusting the
presser foot.
Figures 1, 2, and 3 (Sheet 2) illustrate different arrangements or com-
binations of gearing specially adapted for driving the said type of sewing
machine by hand and at a high speed.
The rest of the Figures on these Sheets of Drawings illustrate the
fourth head of my said Invention, and will be herein-after more par-
ticularly described and referred to.
In carrying out the first part of my said Invention I mount the
"check lever" or thread controller A on a fixed centre a behind the
needle slide B, but I dispense with the ordinary spring action, the said
lever working with just sufficient friction to prevent it from dropping by
its own weight. This may be accomplished in various ways; for
example, by having a friction blade spring 6 pressing upon the boss c of.
the lever A, which boss is enlarged for the purpose, or by having side
friction blade springs inserted in the cap C of the machine, and in front
of the needle slide. This lever A protrudes through a slot d in the
needle slide, and is lowered, as shown in full lines, when the slide
descends in the usual and well-known manner, but when the slide ascends
the "check lever" A, in lieu of rising simultaneously with it, makes
a perceptible pause or dwell in its depressed position before commencing

page_text: its ascent, by which arrangement ample time is afforded for the shuttlo
to pass through the loop of the needle thread before that loop is drawn
up by the joint ascent of the needle slide and "check lever." The
lifting of the "check lever" is in fact effected by a positive motion
derived from the needle slide itself in lieu of as heretofore by a spring
acting independently and directly upon the "check lever." This positive
lifting motion of the "check lever" A may be produced by the end of
the slot in the needle slide striking against the lever, and lifting it, but
this action does not take place until after the needle has performed a
portion of its ascent, there being a sufficient amount of play or space
left between the lower end of the slot in the needle slide and the
extremity of the adjustable pin or stop e, which depresses or lowers the
"check lever" to produce the desired pause or dwell in the motion of
the "check lever." The lever A is shown fully elevated in dotted lines
in Figure 1.
In carrying out the second part of my said Invention I mount the
lever D (Figs. 1, 2, and 5), which is usually known as the " vibrator,"
upon an adjustable centre consisting of an eccentric boss f (Figs. 2, 4,
and 5), which is adjusted by turning it more or less on its fixed stud or
pivot g by means of a short projecting arm h for that purpose or other-
wise. By this arrangement I am enabled to so regulate and vary the
action of the "vibrator" as to enable the machine to operate with equal
facility upon the thinnest and thickest materials, inasmuch as by shifting
the centre of motion of the "vibrator" it will be acted upon to a greater
or less extent by the stud or pin i in the needle slide, and will conse-
quently lift the presser foot at each stitch more or less as required,.
according to the thickness of material to be operated upon.
In carrying out the third part of my said Invention I attach the
herein-before mentioned type of sewing machine by the hinges E, which
usually connect it to the wooden table, to a portable cast-iron or other
metal base F, having an interior dished plate G either cast within it or
made separately of sheet metal, and fixed by screws or otherwise to the
said metal base, such dished plate forming a receptacle for the waste oil,
which may be poured out as it collects through an opening at H in the
driving end of the base, as shown in Figures 1, 2, and 3 (Sheet 1). The
act of closing the hinges secures the machine in its place by a self-acting
spring catch or bolt I. As regards the driving by hand of this class of
sewing machine I may remark that the upright shaft K (see Fig. 3,

page_text: Sheet 2) which (as is well known) drives the shuttle and feed mechanism
and receives its motion from the horizontal or first motion shaft L. By
means of mitre gearing M, M', should be caused to rotate always in the
direction indicated by the arrow in Figure 3 (Sheet 2), whereas the
direction of rotation of the shaft L is immaterial, as the grooved or
slotted cam piece N attached to the needle slide, and into which the
antifriction roller on the disc O works can be easily altered to suit either
direction of rotation of the said shaft. As heretofore arranged for being
driven by a band and treadle the shaft L has been rotated in the direction
of the dotted arrow in Fig. 3, Sheet 2, the mitre wheel M (Figure 3)
being situate in the position indicated in dotted lines. When however
the first motion shaft L is caused to rotate in the contrary direction, as
shown by the full line arrow in Figure 3 (Shect 2) then the mitre
wheel M must be placed in the position shown in full lines in that
Figure, in order to maintain the proper direction of rotation of the
upright shaft K. With these preliminary remarks I shall now proceed
to describe my peculiar combinations and arrangements of gearing for
accomplishing the driving of the before-named type of sewing machine
by hand. In the arrangement shown on Sheet 1 of my Drawings the
fly wheel P of the machine is mounted loose upon a stud Q bencath the
first motion shaft L, and carries a spur wheel R with external teeth,
which wheel gears into a pinion S fast on the rear end of the shaft L,
imparting thereto a speed of from 3 stitches to about 4%, stitches to onc
revolution of the fly or driving wheel. As the fly wheel is grooved on
its periphery to receive a band when required the machine can be
operated either by hand or by foot with equal facility. The direction of
rotation of the fly wheel is indicated by the arrows, from which it will
be seen that the shaft L revolves in its normal direction, and at a rate
of about 3 to 1. Figure 1 (Sheet 2) represents an inner face view of
the loose fly wheel P, wherein an internal toothed rim R¹ is substituted
for the external toothed wheel R before referred to. The teeth R¹ gear
into an intermediate wheel T running loosely on a stud centre U, and
gearing into the pinion S fast on the shaft L, which is consequently
rotated in the usual direction, as indicated by the arrows. In Figures 2
and 3 (Sheet 2) however, wherein I dispense with the intermediate
wheel T, and drive the shaft L direct from the internal toothed rim R¹
and pinion S, the direction of rotation of the said shaft is reversed, as
shown by the full line arrow, and hence it is necessary to move the
mitre wheel M from the position shown in dotted lines to that shown by

page_text: the full lines, in order that the upright shaft K may continue to revolvo
in the
proper direction.
Figure 6 (Sheet 1) is a front elevation, with the cap removed, of a
portion of a sewing machine, showing the application thereto of my
peculiar self-acting plaiting appliance; Figure 7 is a corresponding
elevation of the opposite side of the said appliance detached from the
machine; and Figure 8 is a corresponding edge or back view of the
same.
In carrying out the fourth part of my Invention I attach the herein-
after described self-plaiting appliance by screws or otherwise (so as to
be readily removeable) to the head of any suitable sewing machine,
as shown clearly in Figure 6. This appliance consists essentially of the
combination of a reciprocating knife-edged bar or blade a, with a tappet
wheel containing one or more tappets b, b, and rotated by a pall-and-
ratchet motion driven from any convenient part of the machine. The
stem or holder e of the knife-edged bar or blade works by a slot in its
upper end on a fixed pivot fin the bracket or frame g of the attachment,
and is held in a forward position or drawn towards the needle h of the
machine by a spring or springs i (Fig. 7), whilst it is held down upon
the fabric by the action of the spring " (Figure 6). An adjustable
screw is fitted into the holder or stem e of the plaiter, and is acted
upon by the revolving tappets b, one or more of which may be employed.
The axis of these tappets or wipers is carried in the bracket or frame 9 of
the attachment, and has a ratchet wheel mounted thereon, which is
actuated by a spring pall m (Figure 6) carried by the lever n. This
lever n may derive its vibrating motion either by the direct contact
therewith of the bottom of the needle cam N, as shown in Figure 6,
or from the needle slide itself, or from the vibrating needle lever, when
such is employed. At each descent of the needle the pall m turns the
ratchet wheel one or more teeth, and thereby causes the tappets 6 to
revolve. As cach tappet passes the end of the adjustable screw k it lifts
the knife-edged bar or plaiter a clear of the fabric, and at the same time
moves it backwards. When the tappet has passed the end of the screw
the plaiter is released, and is pressed down on to the fabric by the action
of the spring (Figure 6), whilst at the same time the spring i
(Figure 7) draws the plaiter forward towards the needle, so as to cause
it to tuck a fold or plait under the front of the presser foot o. By
changing the number of tappets in the tappet wheel it is obvious.

page_text: that the fullness of the plaiting may be varied, as the greater the number
of tappets the greater will be the number of plaits for any given number
of stitches. Moreover by varying the length or throw of the said tappets
the throw of the plaiter may be also varied, and consequently plaits of
any given depth of fold may be produced. It will therefore be con-
venient to employ different patterns of tappet wheels, to be changed
according to the nature of the work required. The upward or return
stroke of the pall lever n, which may be accomplished by the action of
the spring p (Figure 6) is regulated or controlled by an adjustable stop
screw q, whereby the pall will be caused to take fewer or more teeth at
each stroke. When it is desired to make these plaits by hand in lieu of
by the self-acting mechanism herein-before described I employ a knife-
edged bar or plaiter of a bifurcated form, and having teeth or serrations
on the ends of the two limbs, as shown clearly in Figures 4, 5, and 6
(Sheet 2), the toothed or serrated portion being bent downwards at or:
about right angles to the surface of the plaiter. This appliance is con-
veniently shaped to be held in the hand of the operator, and it is pushed
forward at suitable intervals so as to gather up the work into plaits,
which it tucks under the presser foot, the bifurcated form of the plaiter
enabling it to operate past both sides of the presser foot.
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of my
said, and the manner in which the same is or may be used or carried
into effect, I would observe in conclusion that what I consider to
be novel and original, and therefore claim as the Invention secured to me
by the herein-before in part recited Letters Patent is,―
First. The application and use to and in reciprocating shuttle sewing
machines of a "check lever" or thread controller, to which sufficient
friction is applied to prevent it from falling by its own gravity, and
which is caused to make a pause or dwell in its depressed position, in
order to allow the shuttle time to pass through the loop of needle
thread, such arrangement being more particularly (though not exclu-
sively) applicable to the class or type of sewing machine known as the
"Singer" family machine, substantially as and for the purposes herein-
before described and illustrated by my Drawings.
Secondly. The mounting the "vibrator," which actuates the presser
foot of sewing machines having an under feed, upon an adjustable
excentric boss, substantially as and for the purpose herein-before described
and illustrated by my Drawings.

page_text: Thirdly. Attaching sewing machines of the class or type known as
the "Singer" family machine (where so arranged as to be driven by
hand) by means of hinges and a spring catch to a hollow portable metal
base or stand containing a receptacle for waste oil, and carrying a loose
hand driving wheel, the said parts being arranged and combined together,
substantially as and for the purpose herein-before described and illus-
trated by my Drawings.
Fourthly. The driving or actuating sewing machines of the class or
type known as the "Singer" family machine by means of a hand wheel
mounted loose upon a stud underneath the horizontal shaft, and provided
with a spur wheel having external teeth which gear directly into a pinion
on the horizontal shaft above, as herein-before described and illustrated
by Figures 1 and 3 (Sheet 1) of my Drawings.
Fifthly. The driving or actuating sewing machines of the class or type
known as the "Singer" family machine by means of a hand wheel
mounted loose upon a stud beneath the horizontal shaft, and provided
inside its rim with an internal toothed driving wheel gearing into an
intermediate pinion, which again gears into a corresponding pinion
mounted on the horizontal shaft, as herein-before described and illus-
trated by Figure 1 (Sheet 2) of my Drawings.
Sixthly. The driving or actuating sewing machines of the class or
type known as the "Singer" family machine by means of a hand wheel
mounted loose upon a stud beneath the horizontal shaft, and provided
inside its rim with an internal toothed driving wheel gearing directly
into a spur pinion mounted on the horizontal shaft abovo, the position of
the mitre wheel on such shaft being changed so as to drive the vertical
shaft in the usual direction, as herein-before described and illustrated by
Figures 2 and 3 (Sheet 2) of my Drawings.
Seventhly. The herein-before described self-acting plaiting appliance,
consisting of a reciprocating knife-edged bar or blade, actuated by means
of revolving tappets worked from the needle slide or other suitable
moving part of a sewing machine, substantially as and for the purpose.
herein-before described and illustrated by Figures 6, 7, and 8 (Sheet 1)
of my Drawings.
Eighthly. The application and use to and in sewing machines of the
combination of the reciprocating knife-edged bar or blade a, the tappets b,
adjustable screw k, ratchet wheel 1, spring pall m, lever n, springs i, i',

page_text: and p, and adjustable stop screw q, when arranged to operate together,
substantially in the manner and for the purpose herein-before described
and illustrated by Figures 6, 7, and 8 (Sheet 1) of my Drawings.
Ninthly. The peculiar hand appliance for gathering up the fabric into
folds or plaits, and for tucking the same under the toe of the presser
foot of a sewing machine, as herein-before described and illustrated by
Figures 4, 5, and 6 (Sheet 2) of my Drawings.
In witness whereof, I, the said Newton Wilson, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Twelfth day of June, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-five.
Witness,
NEWTON WILSON. (L.s.)
EDWIN P. ALEXANDER,
Consulting Engineer and Patent Agent,
14, Southampton Buildings,
Chancery Lane,
W.C.