IMPROVEMENTS IN PAPER OR CLOTH-LINED PAPER COLLARS FOR GENTLEMEN AND LADIES
Year: 1863

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Solomon Sally Gray, of Boston, in the County of
Suffolk, and State of Massachusetts, of the United States of America,
for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN PAPER OR CLOTH-LINED PAPER
COLLARS FOR GENTLEMEN AND LADIES."
Sealed the 26th February 1864, and dated the 24th December 1868.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Solomon Sally Gray at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
24th December 1868.
I, SOLOMON SALLY GRAY, of Boston, in the County of Suffolk, and State
of Massachusetts, of the United States of America, do hereby declare the
nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN PAPER OR CLOTH-LINED
PAPER COLLARS FOR GENTLEMEN AND LADIES," to be as follows:-
My Invention relates more particularly to collars for ladies and gentlemen,
manufactured from paper or from paper in combination with cloth. The
"stand-up" collars of this description have been heretofore flat strips without
curves or angles in them, and the "turn-over" collars have been formed from
such strips by bending back the upper portion.
The chief objections to the first-named collars are, they fit too close around
the neck, their upper edges cut and chafe the skin, and they allow a neck-tie
or handkerchief to slip-up unless otherwise confined. The chief objections to
the last-named are, they wrinkle when brought into a circular form on the
neck, and they afford no space between the outer and inner parts for a neck-
tie or handkerchief.

page_text: The object of my Invention is to obviate these defects, and it consists, firstly,
in making these "stand-up" collars with a curve or angle in their sides, in
order that the upper portion may be flaring so as to stand out from the
wearer's neck and prevent the neck-tie from slipping up, being in this respect
like the best shaped linen collars. These collars are pressed or stretched into
shape by means of a sectional expanding block or its equivalent, the form of
the block varying with the required shape of the collars.
My Invention consists, secondly, in making the "turn-over" collars from flat
strips by bending back the upper portion on a curved instead of a straight line,
so that the corners of the "turn over" part will strike points farther back
from the ends of the lower or band portion of said strips. By forming the
break or crease in a line curved upward from the ends, the upper portion of
the strip, which when bent back forms the outer circle, covers a shorter space
on the lower portion of the strip which forms the inner circle, thus preventing
the wrinkling or puckering of the inner by the tension of the outer circle.
The line instead of being curved or the arc of a circle may be composed of
two or more straight lines running at suitable angles to accomplish a similar
result.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Solomon Sally Gray in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
23rd April 1864.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, SOLOMON
SALLY GRAY, of Boston, in the County of Suffolk, and State of Massachusetts,
of the United States of America, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-fourth day of December, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-three, in the twenty-seventh
year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant
unto me, the said Soloman Sally Gray, Her special licence that I, the said
Solomon Sally Gray, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others
as I, the said Solomon Sally Gray, my executors, administrators, or assigns,
should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and all
times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might
nake, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain
and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN PAPER OR CLOTH-LINED PAPER COLLARS FOR GENTLEMEN AND LADIES,"

page_text: upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said Solomon Sally Gray, my
executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my hand and
seal, or under the hand and seal of one of them, should particularly describe
and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same
was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent
Office within six calender months next and immediately after the date of the
said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Solomon Sally Gray, do hereby declare
the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement, reference being had to the accompanying Sheet Drawings and
letters and figures marked thereon, making a part of this Specification.
DESCRIPTION OF TIIE DRAWINGS.
Figure 1 represents a collar cut out and marked previously to being turned.
over to form a turn-over collar. Figure 2 is a perspective view of the same.
after being turned over and stretched, or molded, and brought into a circular.
form as on a person's neck; and Figure 8 is a similar view of a stretched or.
molded stand-up collar. Like parts are indicated by the same letters in all
the Drawings.
My Invention relates more particularly to what is known as paper or cloth-
lined paper collars for ladies and gentlemen, which for stand-up collars have
hitherto been flat strips of paper, having neither curve nor angle in their
sides; the great objection to which is that (their sides being straight) they fit
too closely around a person's neck, cut and chafe the skin on their upper edges.
and allow a neck-tie or handkerchief around them to slip up unless confined
by a pin.
And secondly, when such flat strips have been made into turn-over collars,
the difficulty with them is, first, the wrinkling or puckering of the inner pait
when brought into a circular form, as on a person's neck, occasioned by the
inner part of necessity occupying a smaller circle than the outer one; and,.
secondly, they afford no space for a neck-tie or handkerchief between the
outer and inner parts.
'
The nature of my improvement therefore consists, first, in so constructing a
turn-over collar as to do away with the above-described defect, and this object
Iaccomplish-by-turning -the collar over on a curved line-(a, Figure-1,)-
instead of a straight line (y), so that the corners (b, 6,) of the turn-over part
B will strike the points a³, a', instead of y', y', as they would if the collar
were turned over on the straight-line y-by which it is evident that the longer

page_text: space from y¹ to y¹ (i. e. from 6 to 6) has only to cover the shorter space from
a to a¹ on the part A, which forms the inner circle. Thus the inner circle
will not be wrinkled or puckered by the tension of the outer one, and the
latter will stand out from the former enough to afford sufficient room for a
neck-tie between them.
And, second, in making paper or cloth-lined paper collars with a curve or
angle in their sides, in order that the upper portion (B, Figure 3,) may be
flaring so as to stand out from the wearer's neck and also prevent a neck-tie
or handkerchief from slipping up, being in this respect like the best of linen
collars.
66
To enable others skilled in the art to make and use my improvement, I will
now describe its construction and operation. I do not confine myself to any
particular shape or style of collars, either turn-over or stand-up, nor to any
particular material, though I consider my improvement as being more
especially applicable to any kind of paper or cloth-lined paper suitable for
such a purpose, white, colored, or figured. When paper is used it should be
a tough long-fibred article, resembling what is known as "bank note" or
'parchment paper, which is capable of being stretched and turned over
without breaking or cracking. Figure 1 represents a collar (cut from a flat
strip by suitable dies or otherwise) before being turned over, d, e, and ƒ being
button holes punched in the usual manner. Two parallel lines of points are
also pressed in around the edge of the collar, in imitation of sewing. Hitherto
collars have been turned over in the straight line y, represented by the dotted
line in Fig. 1, and the practical objection to all such collars has been described
above. The line a, however, is a curve or the arc of a circle, and on this line
the part B is turned over on to the part A. This line x in the collar may be
indented by pressing a die upon it, or by drawing a suitable instrument over it
beside a pattern. When this is done the collar can be readily turned over on
the said indented line. Or the part B may be turned over the edge of a
pattern or block of the curve required. The line, however, instead of being
a curve or the arc of a circle, may be composed of two or more straight lines
and angles, and accomplish the object desired about as well. I prefer, however,
that the line should be the exact arc of a circle. The Drawing, Fig. 1,
represents a collar of the medium size, in which the greatest distance between
the lines x and y is about one half of an inch; it may however be a little more
rless and still accomplish the object required. Collars thus constructed never
wrinkle, and the space between the parts A and B, as shown in Fig. 2, is
enough to admit a neck-tie or handkerchief and may be rolled up without
injury into a circle of not more than an inch or so in diameter for convenience
or

page_text: of packing and transportation. In order, however, to give the upper part of
the collar the requisite outward flare for the purpose specified above, it is
pressed or stretched by means of a sectional outwardly-expanding block or
its equivalent, as represented in Fig. 2; or in case of a simple stand-up collar
as shown in Fig. 3. The side of the collar thus stretched may have a gradual
curvilinear flare, as in Fig. 2, or a straight one, as shown in Fig. 3. The
bottom part B may also be made a little flaring if desirable at the same
operation. I am thus enabled to produce a perfect fitting paper or cloth-lined
paper collar better in all respects than any known or used before.
Having thus described the construction and operation of my improvement,
what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is,―
First, a collar in which the part B is turned over on to the part A in the
curved or angular line x instead of a straight line y, substantially as set forth
& for the purpose described.
Second, pressing or molding a paper or cloth-lined paper collar from a
flat piece into any desirable form, substantially as and for the purpose
described.
In witness whereof, I have hereunto set my hand and seal this Fourth day

page_text: In the Matter of Letters Patent granted to SOLOMON SALLY GRAY, of
Boston, in the County of Suffolk and State of Massachusetts, of the
United States of America, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN
PAPER OR CLOTH-LINED PAPER COLLARS FOR GENTLEMEN AND LADIES,"
bearing date the Twenty-fourth day of December, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-three, and which said
Letters Patent and all interest therein have been duly assigned to
and are now vested in "The British and Foreign Moulded Collar
Company, Limited," of Houndsgate, Nottingham.
ISCLAIMER AND MEMORANDUM OF ALTERATION proposed to be
filed by the said British and Foreign Moulded Collar Company, Limited,
pursuant to the Statutes in that case made and provided.
WHEREAS since the Specification was filed pursuant to the proviso
ontained in the said Letters Patent, we, the said Company, have discovered
at the said-Invention is not ascertained and described with sufficient.
ecision, and that it contains a claim which as drawn is too wide and
definite.

page_text: And whereas, in order to make it clear that we, the said Company, intend
to limit the claims contained in the said Specification to that which was
invented by the said Solomon Sally Gray, we, the said Company, desire to
disclaim, alter, and amend certain parts of the said Specification by striking
out in page 8, line 20, of the printed copy of the said Specification the words
"more particularly," and substituting for the word "is" the word are, and in
page 4, lines 13, 14, and 15 of the same printed Specification by striking out
the consecutive words "nor to any particular material though," and also the
consecutive words "more especially," and in page 5, line 16, by striking out
the consecutive words "into any desirable form."
And in order that the effect of the Disclaimer and Memorandum of Alteration
may be better understood, we, the said Company, annex a copy of the Speci-
fication as it will appear when such Disclaimer and Memorandum of Alteration
have been made as aforesaid.
"NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Solomon Sally Gray, do hereby declare
"the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-
"formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
"statement, reference being had to the accompanying Sheet of Drawings, and
"letters and figures marked thereon, making a part of this Specification.
66
"DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.
© Figure 1 represents a collar cut out and marked previously to being
turned over to form a turn-over collar; Figure 2 is a perspective view of
"the same after being turned over, and stretched or molded and brought
"into a circular form as on a person's neck; and Figure 3 is a similar view
"of a stretched or molded stand-up collar. Like parts are indicated by the
"same letters in all the Drawings.
"
My Invention relates to what are known as paper or cloth-lined paper
"collars for ladies and gentlemen, which for stand-up collars have hitherto
"been flat strips of paper, having neither curve nor angle in their sides; the
66
great objection to which is, that (their sides being straight) they fit too
"closely around a person's neck, cut and chafe the skin on their upper edges,
"and allow a necktie or handkerchief around them to slip up unless confined
" by a pin.
61
And, secondly, when such flat strips have been made into turn-over
"collars, the difficulty with them is, first, the wrinkling or puckering of the
"inner part when brought into a circular form, as on a person's neck, occa-
"sioned by the inner part of necessity occupying a smaller circle than the

page_text: "outer one; and, secondly, they afford no space for a necktie or handker-
"chief between the outer and inner parts.
$6
"The nature of my improvement therefore consists, first, in so constructing
a turn-over collar as to do away with the above described defect, and this
object I accomplish by turning the collar over on a curved line (x, Figure 1)
"instead of a straight line (y), so that the corners (b, b,) of the turn-over part B
"will strike the points a³, x, instead of y', y', as they would if the collar were
"turned over on the straight line y, by which it is evident that the longer
space from y¹ to y¹ (i.e. from 6 to 6) has only to cover the shorter space
"from to ¹ on the part A which forms the inner circle. Thus the inner
"circle will not be wrinkled or puckered by the tension of the outer one, and
"the latter will stand out from the former enough to afford sufficient room
"for a necktie between them.
66
" And, second, in making paper or cloth-lined paper collars with a curve or
"angle in their sides, in order that the upper portion (B, Figure 3,) may be
"flaring so as to stand out from the wearer's neck, and also prevent a
"necktie or handkerchief from slipping up, being in this respect like the
"best of linen collars.
"
66
46
"To enable others skilled in the art to make and use my improvement I will
now describe its construction and operation. I do not confine myself to any
particular shape or style of collars either turn-over or stand-up. I consider
my improvement as being applicable to any kind of paper or cloth-lined
paper suitable for such a purpose, white, colored, or figured. When paper
"is used, it should be a tough long-fibred article, resembling what is known
as 'bank note' or 'parchment paper, which is capable of being stretched
"and turned over without breaking or cracking. Figure 1 represents a
"collar (cut from a flat strip by suitable dies or otherwise) before being
"turned over, d, e, and f being button holes punched in the usual manner.
"Two parallel lines of points are also pressed in around the edge of the collar
"in imitation of sewing. Hitherto collars have been turned over in the
"straight line y, represented by the dotted line in Figure 1, and the practical
"objection to all such collars has been described above. The line a, however,
"is a curve or the arc of a circle, and on this line the part B is turned over
36 on to the part A. This line in the collar may be indented by pressing a
"die upon it, or by drawing a suitable instrument over it beside a pattern.
When--this-is-done the collar can be readily turned over on the said
"indented line, or the part B may be turned over the edge of a pattern or
block of the curve required. The line however, instead of being a curve

page_text: or the arc of a circle may be composed of two or more straight lines and
"angles, and accomplish the object desired about as well. I prefer how-
"ever that the line should be the exact arc of a circle.
The Drawing,
Figure 1, represents a collar of the medium size, in which the greatest
"distance between the lines x and y is about one-half of an inch; it may, 5
"however, be a little more or less and still accomplish the object required.
"Collars thus constructed never wrinkle, and the space between the parts A
"and B, as shown in Figure 2, is enough to admit a necktie or handker-
"chief, and may be rolled up without injury into a circle of not more than
"an inch or so in diameter for convenience of packing and transportation. 1
"In order, however, to give the upper part of the collar the requisite outward
"flare for the purpose specified above, it is pressed or stretched by means of
a sectional outwardly expanding block or its equivalent, as represented in
Figure 2, or in case of a simple stand-up collar, as shown in Figure 3. The
"side of the collar thus stretched may have a gradual curvilinear flare, as in -1
Figure 2, or a straight one, as shewn in Figure 3. The bottom part B
may also be made a little flaring, if desirable, at the same operation. I
"am thus enabled to produce a perfect fitting paper or cloth-lined paper
"collar better in all respects than any known or used before.
Having thus described the construction and operation of my improvement, 2
"what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is,-
First, a collar made of paper or cloth-lined paper, in which the part B is
" turned over on to the part A in the curved or angular line x instead of a
"straight line y, substantially as set forth and for the purpose described.
"Second, pressing or molding a paper or cloth-lined paper collar from a, 2
"flat piece, substantially as and for the purpose described.
In witness whereof, the said Company have caused their common seal
to be affixed hereto, this Eleventh day of November, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-five.
The common seal of the above-named

page_text: To the Commissioners of Patents for Inventions.
I hereby grant my fiat giving leave to the above-named British and
Foreign Moulded Collar Company to file in the Great Seal Patent Office,
with the Specification to which the same relates, the above-written Amended.
Disclaimer and Memorandum of Alteration.
D...