IMPROVEMENTS IN PAPER AND CLOTH-LINED PAPER COLLARS FOR LADIES AND GENTLEMEN
Year: 1865

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Solomon Sally Gray, of Boston, in the County of
Suffolk, and State of Massachusetts, of the United States of America,
for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN PAPER AND CLOTH-LINED PAPER
COLLARS FOR LADIES AND GENTLEMEN."
Sealed the 26th May 1865, and dated the 28th February 1865.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION filed by the said Solomon Sally Gray at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition and Declaration,
on the 28th February 1865, pursuant to the 9th Section of the Patent
Law Amendment Act, 1852.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, SOLOMON
SALLY GRAY, of Boston, in the County of Suffolk, and State of Massachusetts,
of the United States of America, send greeting.
WHEREAS I am in possession of an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN PAPER
AND CLOTH-LINED PAPER COLLARS FOR LADIES AND GENTLEMEN," and bave petitioned
Her Majesty to grant unto me, my executors, administrators, and assigns, Her
Royal Letters Patent for the same, and have made solemn Declaration that
I am the first and true Inventor thereof.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Solomon Sally Gray, do hereby declare
that the following Complete Specification, under my hand and seal, fully
describes and ascertains the nature of the said Invention, and in what
manner the same is to be performed, in and by the following statement,
reference being had to the accompanying Drawings forming a part of this

page_text: Specification, in which Fig. 1 represents a stand-up collar before it is moulded;
Fig. 2 represents the same brought into a circular form and moulded to fit
the neck of the wearer.
Fig. 3 represents a turn-over collar before it is moulded; Fig. 4 represents
the same brought into a circular form after it has been moulded by stretching
the upper portion.
Fig. 5 is the plan of a turn-over collar having a concave bottom, to be turned
over on a concave line parallel or approximately parallel with the bottom, and
intended for ladies' wear; & Fig. 6 is a similar view of the same slightly
modified for gentlemen's wear.
Fig. 7 is a plan of a ladies' collar before it is formed, being a straight strip
of paper or cloth-lined paper; & Fig. 8 is a similar view of the same after it
is formed or finished; & Fig. 9 is a view of the concave edge, and Fig. 10
a view of the convex edge of the same.
Fig. 11 is a front elevation of a machine by means of which the straight
strip shown in Fig. 7 is formed into the curved and finished collar shown in
Fig. 8.
The nature of my Invention consists, 1st, in cutting out the strips of paper
or cloth-lined paper from which the collars are to be made so as to have the
greater expansibility of the paper in the line of the length of the collar when
the collar is to be formed or shaped by extension of the material in whole or
in part.
2d, in flaring the under portion of the collar by stretching or expanding the
same, so that it may fit more exactly the shape of the wearer's neck.
3d, in holding the strip or collar by its two ends whilst the former is being
forced into or through it to mould it to the desired form.
4th, in leaving that portion of the strip or collar that is to be moulded
unclamped or free, whilst the other portion is firmly held, so that a former
moving past it may mould or stretch said free portion into the form required.
5th, in moulding or stretching the upper portion of a turn-over collar of
paper or cloth-lined paper so that when the collar is brought into a circular
shape, as when on a person's neck, the said upper or outer portion shall stand
out from the lower or inner portion to afford room for a necktie or cravat, as
well as to prevent the inner portion from wrinkling or puckering.
6th, in constructing a turn-over collar with a concave bottom and turning 3
it over on a concave line, parallel or approximately parallel with the bottom,
so that the inner portion shall flare outward from the wearer's neck, while at
the same time the outer portion shall stand out from the inner portion to give
the requisite space between the two for a necktie or cravat.

page_text: 7th, in the turning over of a paper or. cloth-lined paper collar by a defined
line, whether pressed into the material by a die or pointed instrument, or by
bending it over the edge of a pattern or block of the proper curve or line.
8th, in so constructing a paper or cloth-lined paper collar as to leave a
space between the turn-over portion and the standing portion, whether said
space be produced by turning over on a curve line, by stretching the outer
portion, or contracting the inner portion, or by any other suitable means, to
produce the desired space for a necktie or cravat.
9th, in constructing a collar out of a straight strip of paper or cloth-lined
paper, and giving it the requisite curve by contracting one of its edges by
plaiting, doubling, or folding down the same, while the opposite edge remains
either smooth or slightly corrugated.
10th, in constructing a gentlemen or ladies' collar of tinted paper or tinted
cloth-lined paper, tinted either in the pulp or by any suitable means after it is
made, as in Fig. 1.
11th, in printing, stamping, or marking upon said tinted collar any required
one-colored figure or design, as in Fig. 6.
.
12th, in printing, stamping, or marking upon said tinted collar any required
figure or design in two or more different colors, as in Fig. 5.
&, 13th, in printing, stamping, or marking the figure or design upon said
tinted collars when they are dry instead of being wet, so that the lustre or
gloss of the finished material shall not be impaired.
To enable others skilled in the art to make and use my Invention, I will
now proceed to describe the construction and operation of the same.
I construct my collars of paper or cloth-lined paper, either white or tinted,
plain or figured, as represented in Figs. 1, 5, and 6, or in any other fancy style
required.
Paper made on a cylinder machine (which is almost the universal mode now
in practice) is non-yielding in the direction of its length, and any attempts to
mould or stretch it in that direction will result. in fracture; but across the
web or felt it will bear stretching. I therefore cut out the strip of paper,
cloth-lined 1 paper, or similar material, of which pulp is an essential part, across
the web or felt, or at right angles, or nearly so, to the length of the paper, so
that a portion of the strip may be stretched or moulded to fit the neck of the
wearer without fracturing the material.
A, B, (Fig. 1) represent a strip of paper or cloth-lined paper cut out cross-
wise of the sheet, and in the form of an arc of a circle, of such radius and such
lengths as will suit the various sizes to be made. On this strip and in the
direction of its length is indented, by means of a die or of a pointed instrument

page_text: drawn along a guage, a line d, from which line to the base of the collar 6 the
material is stretched or moulded, so as to elongate the part B between d and b,
while the portion A between the line d and the top of the collar may be left
in its original condition. This strip, when bent round into a circle to form
the collar, will flare out at the bottom, so as to conform to the shape of the
neck, whilst the upper portion, though not stretched, will from the shape of
the strip, and, as shown in Fig. 2, stand off so as to conform also to that part
of the neck which it surrounds.
The stretching or moulding may be done by a die forced against the portion
of the collar to be thus treated, whilst its two ends are securely held together;
or it may be done by running the portion to be stretched or moulded between
cylindrical or conical pressing rollers that will draw or stretch the same; or
it may be done by a single roll and a flat or stationary surface upon which the
said strip may rest. When a roll or rolls are used to do the stretching, the
indented line d may or may not be previously made in the strip, as a guage
may be connected with the rolls to accomplish the purpose. The line dis
important, however, not only as a defined mark between the portion stretched,
and the portion not stretched, but it also adds to the finish and appearance of
the collar.
e represents the button-hole by which the collar is fastened to the shirt.
The Drawings (Figs. 1 and 2) represent only a stand-up collar, but of
course a turn-over collar may be made after this plan also, it being only
necessary to make the upper portion of the strip large enough to afford the
material for the turned-down portion.
Figs. 3 and 4 represent a turn-over collar, in which the part A is turned
over on the straight line d, the requisite flare or space between the two parts
A and B being produced by moulding or stretching the part A in the manner
already described above. If the portion A were turned over upon the portion B
on the straight line d, without any moulding or stretching of any portion of
the strip, it would make a collar unpleasant and uncomfortable to wear, as
when bent round into the form it must assume when on a person's neck it
will pucker and wrinkle, and more particularly so when a necktie is introduced
between the turned-over portion and the band or lower portion B. I avoid all
this by moulding or stretching the upper portion A, which, when thus treated,
may be folded over on the straight line d, and the portion A will stand off
from the portion B, as shown in Fig. 4, avoiding all puckering or wrinkling,
and admitting a necktie between the folded-over portion A and the band or
inner portion B.
In constructing collars such as I have just described in Figs. 1, 2, 3, and 4;

page_text: when the stretching is done by means of a conical former or block forced into
or through the collar, the latter is held fast by its two ends until the stretching
operation is performed, whilst that portion of the collar that is to be moulded
is left unclamped or free, so that the former moving past it may mould or.
stretch it.
Figs. 5 and 6 represent turn-over collars constructed with a concave bottom
and turned over on a curve line d, parallel or approximately parallel with the
bottom. By thus making the bottom of the collar concave it will, when
brought into a circular form, flare outward from the bottom, so as to conform
somewhat to the shape of the wearer's neck, and thereby produce a very
comfortable fit, while the turn-over part A (being turned over on the curved
line d) will stand out from the part B, and thereby afford the requisite space
between them for a necktie or cravat.
Figs. 8, 9, and 10 are different views of a ladies: collar, the construction of
which I will now proceed to describe. Such collars have hitherto been cut
out on curved lines or the arcs of circles, so as to give them the requisite
shape when on the wearer's neck, the great objection to which method of
construction is the unavoidable waste of material attendant on the cutting out
of the curved strips of which the collars are formed.
I first cut out the material into straight strips A, of the required length and
width, as represented in Fig. 7. These strips I run through a machine
represented in Fig. 11, in which E is the frame, and F and G two cylinders
of suitable metal, provided with axles k and l. One part of the periphery
of these cylinders is smooth, the other part i being provided with cogs, those of
the one cylinder meshing into those of the other like the teeth of two pinion
wheels; these cylinders may be straight or slightly conical; they are
pressed together with the requisite force by means of springs on their axles ;
P being a pulley by which the machine is driven by a belt, or it may be
driven by means of a crank n.
:
The collar, on being passed between the two cylinders F and G (in the
position represented by the dotted lines in Fig. 11) assumes the curved form
shown in Fig. 8, the concave edge d being plaited and flattened down by the
smooth part of the cylinders, and consequently contracted in length, as
represented in Fig. 9, while the opposite edge b is only slightly waved or
corrugated, as represent in Fig. 4. The part 6 may however be left nearly
or entirely smooth, if desirable, as, for instance, on the outer part of a turn-
over collar, either for ladies or gentlemen, the contracting of the part d giving
the collar the requisite flare or space between the outer and inner portions for
the reception of a necktie or cravat. In this manner properly shaped and

page_text: highly ornamental collars can be made with great rapidity, cheapness, and.
economy of stock.
When my collars are made of tinted paper, it is better that the paper
should be tinted in the pulp, as in that case the whole body of the paper,
inside and out, is of the same color, so that both sides of the collar, as well as
the edge of the same, will be monochromatic; the tint may, however, be
imparted to the material in any well-known manner.
Fig. 1 represents a plain collar tinted straw color; any other desirable tint
may, however, be employed, as I use the word "tinted" as meaning any other
color than what is known as white when applied to paper.
I also propose to print, stamp, or mark upon said tinted paper or cloth-
lined paper any required design or figure, either of one color, as shown in Fig. 6,
or of two colors, as shown in Fig. 5, or of any greater number if desired.
These designs or figures I prefer to print, stamp, or mark upon the collars
when the paper is dry, instead of being wet, in order that the gloss or lustre
may not be impaired. The figuring may, however, be given to the paper
when it is moist, and the paper afterwards finished or not, if ever deemed
expedient. The advantage of a tinted collar over a white one is the greater
length of time which the former may be worn without being perceptibly soiled.
In many cases also, as a matter of ornament, tinted collars are preferable to
white. Tinted paper may also be afforded at a cheaper rate than white paper,
owing to the difficulty of manufacturing the latter of the requisite whiteness;
and this is more especially the case with long-fibred paper, such as these
collars are constructed of.
Having thus described the nature of my improvements in paper or cloth-
lined paper collars for ladies' and gentlemen's wear, what I claim as new and
desire to secure by Letters Patent is,―
First, cutting out the paper strips from which the collars are to be made so
as to have the greater expansibility of the material in the line of the length of
the collar when the collar is to be formed or shaped by extension of the
material in whole or in part, substantially as and for the purpose described.
Second, flaring the under portion of the collar by stretching or expanding
the same, so that it may fit more exactly the shape of the wearer's neck,
substantially as described.
Third, holding the strip or collar by its two ends whilst the stretching block
or former is being forced into or through it to mould it to the desired form.
Fourth, leaving that portion of the strip that is to be moulded unclamped
or free, whilst the other portion is firmly held, so that a former moving past
it may mould or stretch said free.portion into the form required.

page_text: Fifth, moulding or stretching the upper portion of a turn-over collar so that
when brought into a circular shape, as when on a person's neck, the said upper
or outer portion shall stand out from the lower or inner portion, substantially
as set forth and for the purpose described.
Sixth, constructing a turn-over shirt collar with a concave bottom, and
turning it over on a concave line, parallel or approximately parallel with the
bottom, substantially as and for the purposes described.
Seventh, the turning over of a paper or cloth-lined paper collar by a defined
line, whether pressed into the material by a die or pointed instrument, or by
bending it over the edge of a pattern or block of the proper curve or line, for
the purpose specified.
Eighth, a paper or cloth-lined paper collar constructed with a space between
the turn-over portion and the standing portion, whether said. space be produced
by turning over on a curve line, by stretching the outer portion, or contracting
the inner portion, or by any other suitable means, to produce the required
space for the reception of a necktie or cravat.
Ninth, a paper or cloth-lined paper collar to which the requisite curve or
shape is given by contracting a part of it, substantially as set forth and for the
purpose described.
Tenth, as a new article of manufacture, a gentlemen or ladies collar of
tinted paper or cloth-lined paper, substantially as and for the purpose
described.
Eleventh, printing, stamping, or otherwise marking upon said tinted collar
any required one-colored figure or design, substantially as described.
Twelfth, printing, stamping, or otherwise marking upon said tinted collar
any required figure or design in two or more different colors, substantially as
described.
Thirteenth, printing, stamping, or marking the design or figure on said
tinted collar when the material is dry, for the purpose described.
Fourteenth, a tinted paper or cloth-lined paper collar in which the tint is
imparted to the paper in the pulp, substantially as and for the purpose
described.
In witness whereof, I have hereunto set my hand and seal, this Tenth