Year: 1886

page_text: [Communicated from abroad by the WILLCOX AND GIBBS SEWING MACHINE COMPANY,
of New York, in the County and State of New York, United States of America.]
I, JOHN HENRY JOHNSON of 47 Lincoln's Inn Fields in the County of Middlesex
Gentleman do hereby declare the nature of this Invention which has been com-
municated to me from abroad by the Willcox and Gibbs Sewing Machine Company
of New York in the County and State of New York United States of America
and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement :-
more
This Invention although in part applicable to other machines relates
particularly to double thread sewing machines making a lock stitch by means of a
continuously revolving hook or looper operating in conjunction with the eye pointed
needle and other common parts of sewing machines the thread being drawn up to
complete each stitch independently. It has for its object to increase the range of
work the lightness in running and generally to perfect the machine.
The Invention consists first in thread controlling mechanism of such construction
and arrangement that the length of thread drawn in by the take up in tightening each
stitch and given out in the formation of the succeeding stitch is regulated auto-
matically in accordance with the thickness of work under the presser foot the length
so taken up and given out being greater in proportion as the work is thicker while at
the same time the said mechanism exerts a positive control over the thread that is to
say the thread is controlled by devices which are practically rigid or unyielding and
not by springs which are bent more or less by the thread These, that is springs, are
uncertain in their action particularly in machines making the lock stitch by a rotary
hook and running at high speed The mechanism is hereinafter explained in detail.
The Invention consists secondly in thread controlling mechanism of such con-
struction and arrangement that the thread drawn up in completing each stitch is
released sooner or later in the descent of the needle as the work under the presser foot
is thicker or thinner the regulation being effected automatically by a suitable
connection with the presser foot and the control over the thread being made positively

page_text: or by practically rigid and unyielding devices. The Mechanism is hereinafter
explained in detail.
The Invention consists thirdly in the combination with a rotary take up and
specially a rotary take up, having one or more pins or equivalent devices for drawing
in the thread and releasing it by the mere recession of said pin or pins of an
auxilary take up or thread controller, for releasing the thread at the proper time more
rapidly than would be done by the rotary- take up alone. In practice the auxilary
take up is formed by the needle bar, in connection with suitable thread guides, and
these latter are made automatically adjustable by a connection with the pressure foot, so
that the release of the thread is regulated in accordance with the thickness of the
work. It will bo understood however that the arrangement of the rotary take up,
having its action modified by the auxiliary take up, can be employed although the
effect of the latter may not be capable of regulation by means of adjustable thread
guides, or by other similar means.
The invention consists fourthly in such construction combination and arrangement
of parts in a lock stitch sewing machine that the rotary hook is given three revolutions
to each reciprocation of the needle.
In order that this improvement may be most successfully practiced, a special
construction of rotary hook is employed. The mechanism including the special
construction of rotary hook, is hereinafter explained in detail.
The invention consists fifthly in the special constructions and combinations hereinafter
explained, of the rotary hook, the bobbin case and the means of suspending the bobbin
ease in the hook, the object being mainly to enable a comparatively small loop of
upper sewing thread to be carried around a large bobbin of the under thread, with
as much certainty and as little rubbing of or resistance to the upper thread as may be
possible; and also to facilitate the manufacture of the said parts.
The invention consists sixthly in providing a rock shaft, which forms part of the
feed mechanism with a finger or equivalent device for engaging and locking the tilting
holder which retains the bobbin and bobbin case in the rotary hook.
The invention consists seventhly in providing the needle bar with an oil cup which
both protects the upper thread from becoming soiled by contact with the needle bar
and assists in lubricating the bearing of said needle bar said bearing entering the
cup every time the needle bar rises.
The invention consists eighthly in feed mechanism which is operated by a single
eccentric and imparts to the feed bar provided with the roughened feed surface
the usual four motions through a feed lever and two rock shafts. These shafts aro
connected by lever arms at one end with the feed lever and on the other with the feed bar.
The rock shaft which lifts the feed bar has arms of unequal length; the longer arm
being connected with the feed lever, and the shorter arm with the feed bar so that the
rising and falling motions of the feed surface are less than the throw of the eccentric.
In this way a comparatively large eccentric may be employed without giving excessive
rise and fall to the feed bar.
The invention further comprises certain particular constructions, combinations and
arrangements of parts in addition to what has been already indicated, as hereinafter
pointed out.
The accompanying drawings which form part of this specification represent a sewing
machine constructed in accordance with the invention.
Fig. 1 is a view partly in vertical longitudinal section, and partly in elevation.
Fig. 2 an end view partly in vertical cross-section. Fig. 3 a face view of the head of
the machine with rotary take up removed. Fig. 4 a face view of the head shewing
the position of the parts in sewing the thickest goods at the time of completing a
stitch. Fig. 5 a partial plan viow. Fig. 6 a sectional elevation through the standard
of the gooseneck, looking towards the head of the Machine. Figs. 7 & 8 detail views
in sectional elevation of parts on the head. Fig. 9 a central vertical section (enlarged).
through the rotary hook, bobbin, bobbin case, hanger and holder. Fig. 10 a partial
view in section through the hook, bobbin case, and hanger, in a plane inclined
to the vertical as indicated, by lines ab (Figs. 15 and 18) looking in the direction of

page_text: the arrows. Fig. 11 a face view of the rotary hook, Fig. 12 an edge view of the same,
Fig. 13 a back view. Fig. 14 a perspective, Fig. 15 a face view of the bobbin hanger.
Fig. 16 a perspective view of the bobbin hanger. Fig. 17 a plan view of the bobbin
case Fig. 18 a face view of the same threaded. Fig. 19 a perspective view thereof,
Fig. 20, an end view of the holder and bobbin hanger. Fig. 21 a sectional elevation
showing how the machine frame is hinged to the table or wheel stand. Fig. 22 a
similar view with the machine frame turned up for examination. Figs. 23 and 24 a side
view and a plan of the plates which are attached to the table or stand, Fig. 25 a
vertical section through the standard of the gooseneck in a different plane from Fig. G.
but looking in the same direction, Fig. 26. a view in plan of that part of the feed
mechanism which is below the work plate, the middle part of the rock shafts being
omitted and Fig. 27 a detail view shewing how the feed lever is fulcrumed.
The main shaft C. turns in bearings in the gooseneck or stationary arm B of the
machine frame. Under the work plate A is the shaft D. which carries at one end the
rotary hook or looper K and at the other end is geared with the main shaft, C. so as to
make three revolutions to one of the latter. The motion is conveyed through the
train of gears in the standard of the gooseneck. The feed is operated by the
eccentric E. which gives all four of the motions to the feed surface.
The feed lever E (see Fig. 25) encircled the eccentric E. at its upper end, and at its
lower end is connected by a pin joint with bar e. It slides in the sleeve e' which
is fastened by a set screw in the cylinder e* (see Fig. 27) the latter form a journal for
the sleeve & the fulcrum for the lever E¹. It is supported in bearings of the
bracket.e³ carried by the slide E which latter encircles and is guided by the hexagonal
rod E3 and is moved up and down by the pinion E (see Fig. 6) the said pinion
engaging the teeth et on the side of the slide E. The pinion E is fixed to a short
shaft journaled in the front wall of the gooseneck, and provided with a milled head for
turning. A suitable friction device, such as a spring, arranged inside the slide E so
as to bear against the rod E³, is employed to retain the slide E² in the position to which
it may be adjusted.
The bar e is connected at its rear end by a pin joint with an upright arm of the
rack shaft E (see Figs. 25 and 26) provided at its opposite end with a similar upright
arme, which is connected by a pin joint with the feed bar E, so that the feed surface e
has the same to and fro motion as the bar e. By raising and lowering the slide E°
the fulcrum of the feel lever E' is shifted so as to increase or decrease the to and fro
movement of the feed surface, and consequently the distance through which the work
is fed at each stitch.
The bar e is comected near its front end by the link e with the horizontal lever
arm at one end of the rock shaft 33, provided at its opposite end with a shorter
horizontal arm elo (see Fig. 2) which is connected by the link e" with the feed bar E
near its front end.
The vertical movement of the feed lever E' is thus in part communicated to the
feed bar E and feed surface e', the movement being reduced in the transmission
because the lever arm e' is longer than the arm e. By making a proper difference in
the length of said arms, the throw of the eccentric may be as great or nearly as
great as the longest stitch to be made, which is a desirable feature, without giving
an excessive rise and fall to the feed surface.
The needle bar F is operated by a crank F through a short pitman F³ and cross
head F2 and the rotary take up H is composed of two plates connected together by
the pins and is fastened to the outer end of the crank F by a screw through the
inner plate. With the rotary take up H are combined the thread guides the
upper one fixed, the lower shifting or adjustable. The thread passes from guide h
between the plates of take up H. behind the pins h³ to the guide h°. The shifting
or adjustable thread guide his formed in or carried by a bar 1 jointed at the opposite
end to the presser bar G, and sliding in a groove in the head of a pin 2. whose
shank fits loosely in a hole in the head of the machine, so that it may turn with the
sliding bar 1 whenever the presser foot is raised or lowered. As the presser foot is
raised it moves the thread guide in the direction opposite to the motion of the take

page_text: up pins 2 h³ in drawing in the thread and brings it closer to the upper guide h³ so
that the take up pins will at each revolution draw in and give down a length of thread
which is greater or less as the presser foot and presser bar are more or less raised.
Work of different thickness therefore by holding up the presser foot more or less
regulates the effective action of the rotary take up.
+
The adjustment of the thread guide has the effect of making the pins complete
their drawing in action sooner the further the guide is moved forward. The principal
alteration in the timing of the take up is however, effected not by this means, but
by the auxiliary take up or thread controller, through which the thread passes on its
way to the rotary take up or from the tension G. This apparatus consists of a take
up pin 4, which is fastened to the top of the needle bar F. by a screw 5, and which
is carried downward in the middle so that the thread being drawn into the lowest
point will always occupy the same position; two thread guides 6 & 7 or opposite sides
of said pin 4, and an adjustable yoke 8. in which the guides 6 and 7 are formed, or by
which they are carried.
The yoke 8 is pivoted in the middle at 9 to the stationary piece 10 fixed to the
head of the machine, and at its rear end is connected at 11. by a slot and pin connec-
tion with the presser bar G. As the presser bar is raised therefore, the yoke 8 is
moved on its pivot, and the guides 6 & 7 are depressed. As the needle bar recipro-
cates, the take up pin 4 presses the thread upwards, between the thread guides 6 & 7
making a longer or shorter loop as the said guides are more or less depressed, since
the amount of depression depends upon the position of the presser bar and this upon
the thickness of the work under the presser foot which in sewing rests upon the work,
it follows that as the work is thicker the pin 4 of the auxiliary take up comes the
sooner into contact with the thread between the thread guides 6 and 7 takes up and
gives out a larger loop and releases the thread at a later point in its descent. The effect
of the auxiliary take up of itself is therefore to draw in and give out a length of loop
proportionate to the thickness of the goods, and while it is obvious that a reciprocatory
take up adjustable to draw in and give out to the needle and interlocking device (hook
or shuttle) more or less thread according to the thickness of the work, could be con-
structed in a similar manner, the apparatus shewn has no such function or has it only
to an inconsiderable extent but from its arrangement or timing relatively to the rotary
take up. It merely or mainly changes the length of thread which is given out at
different periods in the formation of the stitch releasing more thread in the beginning
(that is immediately after the completion or tightening of the preceding stitch) in
sewing thick than in sewing thin work or in other words giving out slack so as to
leave the thread free earlier or later in the descent of the needle, according to the
thickness of the work.
The rotary take up begins to draw in the thread as soon as the loop has been
carried around the body of the under thread Assuming that thin work (say a
thickness or two of muslin) is under the presser foot the pin 4 of the auxiliary take up
has just begun to press the thread up between the thread guides 6 and 7 The two
take ups or two parts of the take up proceed together to draw in thread but while the
rotary take up is in full action the needle bar F has reached the top of its stroke and
begun to descend The take up pin 4 therefore gives up to the rotary take up the
small loop which it has drawn in As the rotary take up completes its drawing in
action the needle bar and its take up pin are about in the position they occupied at
the beginning of the taking up action The auxiliary take up has not (at least not
materially) altered the operation of the rotary take up.
The rotary take up pins being at this time nearly equidistant from the guides he h
and therefore at or near the dead point of the take up give out the thread very slowly
so that they maintain sufficient control over the slacked loop to prevent its fouling the
point of the needle but when the needle has penetrated the thin fabric their action is
more rapid and they leave the loop entirely free The take up pin 4 being below and
out of contact with the thread of course has no influence upon it during this time. If,
however, the presser foot had been raised by thick work and the thread guides 67
depressed the pin 4 instead of being about on a level with said thread guides when the

page_text: rotary take up ceased to draw thread from below would be above them and therefore
would hold a loop By giving out this loop it increases the supply of thread at the
beginning of the stitch so that the thread instead of being held back until the needle
eye has descended almost to the work plate would be left free at or before it reached
the
upper surface of the thick work The loop given out by the reciprocatory take up
pin being proportionate to the thickness of the work the supply of thread at the
beginning of the stitch will be more or less accordingly The two take ups or two
parts of the take up acting together leave the thread free as or immediately before the
eye of the needle enters the work whatever the thickness and while they have earlier
slackened the thread to relieve the needle of side strain in entering the work they
have until then maintained sufficient control over it to prevent is fouling the needle.
The needle bar descends to the .bottom of its stroke rises; throws the loop for the
rotary hook and continues its upward movement until the pin 4 again presses the loop
upward between the guides 6 and 7 It and the rotary hook then draw on the threadl
simultaneously the rotary take up continuing to give it out. By the time the rotary
hook has carried the loop under the bobbin and the rotary take up is again ready to
draw in the thread the pin 4 has taken up a loop of substantially the same length it
had when the previous stitch was tightened The auxiliary take up therefore causes
more thread to be given up as (and before) the needle enters the fabric and less while
the hoop is carrying down the loop without materially altering the length of thread
drawn in and given out at each stitch.
As already stated the adjustment of the thread guide / changes the time at which
the rotary take up completes the drawing in of the thread, it therefore alone changes to
the same or about the same extent the time at which the slackening up of the thread
commences but this action is of minor importance. Its principal function is to vary
or regulate the length of thread drawn in and given out, so that of the auxiliary take
up or thread controller is to vary or regulate the distribution of that length or the
amounts which shall be given down at different times.
In the practical working out of these principles the three revolutions of the hook to
a stitch is a valuable feature since by giving the larger part of the time occupied in
making a stitch to the action of the take up it allows more latitude in adapting the
operation of the several parts to each other."
In order to prevent the upper or needle thread from being soiled by contact with
the oily needle bar the latter is provided at the lower end with a thread protector 1 in
the form of a cup This cup catches any oil that may run down the needle and pre-
vents the thread which passes over its exterior to the guide i from bulging or buckling
inwards towards the needle bar An annular space is left around the lower bushing
for the needle bar to receive the cup on its assent The oil in the cup is forced up
around the bushing or tubular bearing and continually lubricates the same. It
remains to a greater or less extent in the bearing and on the outside of the bushing so
that the cup is prevented from getting full and running over The thread shield 12
prevents the thread from impaling itself on the point of the needle when drawn in by
the take up.
It consists of a bent bar inserted through and fixed in the journal pin 12
(which is supported in the head of the machine) and engaged at its upper end by the
pin 13, supported and journaled in the cross head F2. As the cross head is recipro-
cated the pin 13 slides over the upper part of the bar and moves the lower part which
forms the thread shield proper, towards and away from the needle.
The spool stand G is set on an incline and the thread delivered from its side to
the thread guide g and tension G₁ (of ordinary construction). The presser bar may be
held down in any ordinary or suitable way; as shown it, is connected by a screw pin
with the plunger 14, which is forced down by the spiral compression spring 15 and
the pressure is adjusted by the thumb screw 1.6. G'is the cam for lifting the presser
har when desired.
The rotary hook K is cup shaped with frusto-conical interior and exterior periphery
It is cut away at k³ so that the point * extends the entire width The loop shedder
is in the form of a projection. In front of it is a groove 17 extending obliquely across
the hook point. In this groove the outer stand of the needle loop is laid being caught

page_text: by the point of the shedder and carried around by the shoulder 2 forming the front
wall thereof A nich or undercut on the opposite side of the groove forms a loop
retainer 18 which prevents the needle loop from slipping forward on the point of the
hook as it (the point) ascends after being passed under the body of the under thread.
Near its extreme end at 19 the point of the hook is bevelled on top so that the extreme
end k³ is below the general periphery of the hook and will be below the outer strand
of the needle loop when, in the ascent of the hook point it extends from the loop
retainer 18 along the top of said point to the needle hole in the work plate. The
extreme end will therefore pass under and not catch the said strand.
On the inner periphery of the hook is a concentric shoulder k and in front of it an
undercut groove 20 or groove the bottom of which is further removed from the centre
of the hook than either of its edges.
The bobbin case L has a frusto-conical barrel 21, a face plate 22 a central spindle
attached to said face plate and a rim 23. The cylindrical bobbin M which contains
the body of the underthread fits on the spindle within the frusto-conical barrel 21 of
the bobbin case-The thread passes out through the hole in the face plate-The
bobbin is retained in place by the split ring m. A shallow groove is turned on the
outside of the spindle for the ring to enter when the hobbin is inserted in order to
hold it more securely in place.
On the face plate is the tension plate N held against the face plate by the spiral
compression spring N2, screw n, nut and prevented from turning by pins n-In
order to facilitate the introduction of the thread beneath it the tension plate is bevelled
on the underside at 24. The face plate 22 as well as the tension plate N. are slotted
for the passage of the needle. The rim 23 is provided with a notch 25 also with a hole n
forming a thread guide in the rear of the notch 25 for the passage of the under
thread from the bobbin case to the needle hole in the cloth plate. The portions of the
rim on either side of the notch extend further from the centre than the rest of the rim so
that the hook point will pass behind and not above them-The barrel and inner half
or rather inner third of the rim are introduced into the cup shaped hook-At the top
adjacent to the notch 25 this inner portion of the rim is cut away as shewn best in
Figs. 17 & 18 so that the inner strand may extend from the notch 25 to the back of
the bobbin case-At 29 is an overhanging projection formed by milling a recess or
making an undercut in the nearly vertical edge of this portion of the rim―This over-
hanging projection 29 when the bobbin case is inserteil in the hook lios just under the
groove 20 and projects beyond the shoulder k into said groove. The inner strand of
the needle loop under the point of the hook is stretched across said grove & as it is
carried onward by the hook is caught by said projection the recess or undercut in its
face preventing the strand from slipping over the top-The upper surface of the
inner portion of the rim is bevelled or inclined to correspond in shape to the groove 20
so that when inserted in the hook the bobbin case can be lifted, the inner portion of the
rim entering the groove 20. The rim 23 is rounded on the face to allow the thread
to slip over it easily. An undercut groove 26 is turned in the face of the bobbin
case. The projections 27 28 which form part of the bobbin hanger "fit in said
groove on either side of the notch 25 and support the bobbin case within the hook.
Their upper surfaces are concentric with the ring (or outer edge of the groove) which
rests upon them.
The bobbin hanger instead of being simply a hook to support the bobbin case forms
also a bearing for the lower part of said case. The projections 27. 28 are so shaped
that the upper part of the bobbin case will be held out from the vertical face of the
hanger. A projection 34 attached to or made in one piece with the hanger fits in the
notch 25 of the bobbin case when the latter is suspended from the projections 27. 28.
This face of the projection 34 is grooved. The hanger has a central hollow shank by
which it is fixed in the holder O-The screw driver oº for turning the tension screw
on the bobbin cases passes through this shank.
The holder O is hinged to a stationary part 01 of the frame by a journal pin 30
which is fixed by a set screw in said holder and turus in its bearing in the part O'.
On the outer end of said pin is a finger 31 which is so placed with reference to a

page_text: finger 32 on the rock shaft 33 forming part of the feed mechanism that when the feed
surface is depressed the finger on the rock shaft places itself in the path of the finger 31
and prevents the holder O being moved in or out but when the feed surface is raised it
is removed from said path end allows the holder to be turned for inserting the bobbin
and bobbin case in the hook or for removing them therefrom-A spring latch o
retains the holder in its upright position for retaining the bobbin case in the hook-
To give access to the rotary hook-bobbin hanger & adjacent parts a semicircular
opening is made in the work plate and a semi circular plate 35 is swiveled
in the contre to the machine frame so that it can be turned to cover or
uncover said opening-A ledge 36 supports the edge of the swiveled plate
when it is turned to cover the opening in the work plate. A hole is formed in the
swiveled plate to admit the finger of the operator for turning the screw driver of for
moving the swiveled plate aside-The frame of the machine is provided with hinges
preferably cast in one piece therewith for attachment to the wheel stand or table.
These hinges consist each of trunnions 40 a central web 41 and a stop 42 on the
bottom. The top of the stand or table is hollowed at points where the hinges are to
be and these hollows are covered with a plate 43 provided with depressions 44 to
receive the trunnions 40 and a slot 45 for the Web 41 to pass through. The plates 43
are secured by screws or otherwise to the top of the table or stand. The Machine
being held at an incline the Webs 41 are passed through the slots and the trunnions 40
are allowed to rest in the depressions 44. The frame can now be turned down (as
shewn in fig. 21) in position for sewing or up (as shewn in fig. 22) in order to allow
the parts under the work plate to be examined and oiled-When turned up the stops 42
prevent it from falling over.
.
The Machine being properly threaded and adjusted the operation is as follows:-
The eye pointed needle I carries the loop of the upper thread through the work &
rising slightly throws a loop which is further pressed out into the path of the point &¹
of the rotary hook by contact of the thread on the opposite side of the needle with the
stationary projection 34. The extreme end of the point enters the loop, and the
point spreads it entirely across the bobbin case. The outer strand is caught by the
front edge of the loop shedder and laid in the groove 17. The inner strand catches
under the overhanging projection 29 on the bobbin case. The needle continues its ascent
and the hook carries down the loop, the inner strand going behind the bobbin and
bobbin case (the breadth of the point, the cone shape of the inner surface of the point,
and the cone shape of the barrel of the bobbin case insuring its taking the right path)
and the outer strand passes in front between the bobbin case L, and the hanger 0,
pushing back the bobbin case into the hook, as shown in Fig. 9 as it passes the
bottom where the bobbin case normally rests upon the face of the hanger-The
thread up to this time has been perfectly free. If thick goods are sewed the
the excess of loop which would
needle bar or reciprocatory take up has taken thin goods are sewed the rotary
The
otherwise be given down by the rotary take up.
take up has given down the right quantity-In this case as the needle bar or
reciprocatory take up has given out no loop as the needle enters the work, it need
not, in order to avoid an excess draw any as it leaves the work on its up stroke.
rotary hook has therefore just enough thread to extend properly around the bobbin
case and its point when in its lowest position-At this time the outer strand of
the needle loop has not yet passed between the supporting projections 27 and 28 and
the bobbin case. As the hoop point passes under the bobbin case, the rotary take
up assisted by the auxiliary or reciprocatory take up draws on the upper thread the
loop of which slips forward on the point of the hook and is caught by the detainer 18.
As the hook point assends, the take up draws in the slack thread, the outer strand
which is between the bobbin case and bobbin hanger being drawn through the detainer.
The friction upon this outer strand at the time the point of the hoop passes the
needle hole in its second revolution is sufficient to keep the inner strand between the
detainer and the needle hole nearly straight so that the point passes under without
taking it. As the detainer 18 passes the needle hole it releases the loop which is
pulled up by the take up between the projection 28 and the bobbin case, so that the

page_text: strand is drawn into the notch 25 between the bobbin case and the projection 34.
This strand remains in the notch 25 until the loop or bight has been drawn between
the projection 27 and the bobbin case, when the loop is drawn through the work plate
into the fabric, carrying a bight of under thread with it, When the loop passes around
the projections 27 and 28, the feed surface and work are elevated and the bobbin
case is suspended therefrom by the under thread, the pressure against the part of
the hook, which for the time being is at the top, serving to draw off the necessary
thread from the bobbin through the tension, When the feed surface and work drop
down, the bobbin and bobbin case are again supported by the hanger-The rotary
hook complets its second and third revolutions idly, and as it next passes the needle
hole takes down a new loop.
Modifications may be made in details without departing from the spirit of the
invention, and parts of the invention may be used separately, as for example by
applying the improved adjustable take up to a shuttle machine, or to a rotary hook
machine more or less modified from that herein described and so for other improve-
ments.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of this Invention
.and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I claim is,
1. The combination with the presser foot and presser bar, needle and needle bar
and tension apparatus of a lock stitch sewing machine, of a take up and thread guides
so constructed as to act upon and hold the thread hetween the tension apparatus and
.the eye of the needle wholly by rigid or positive devises adjusting means for regulating
the length of thread drawn in and given out at each stitch by said take up and a
mechanical connection between said adjusting means and the presser foot for making
the adjustment automatic substantially as described.
2. The combination with the presser foot and presser bar, needle and needle bar,
rotary hook and tension apparatus of a lock stitch sewing machine completing each
stitch independently, of a take up and thread guides for acting upon and holding the
thread between the tension apparatus and the eye of the needle wholly by rigid or
positive devisos adjusting means for regulating the length of thread drawn in
and given out at each stitch, a mechanical connection between the adjusting means and
the presser foot and mechanism connecting said needle bar, take up, and rotary hook
for making them act in due sequence to form the stitch substantially as described.
3. The combination with a rotary take up having a device for drawing in the thread
positively and for releasing it by moving away without casting it off, of means
adjustable to vary the length of thread drawn in and given out, and a connection
between the said means and the presser foot for making the adjustment automatic
substantially as described.
4. The combination with a rotary take up having one or more pins or take up
devices movable in a circular path, and thread guides arranged in the line of a chord
to said circular path, of adjusting means for shifting one of said thread guides circum-
ferentially with reference to the take up, in order to vary the length of thread drawn
in and given out at each revolution thereof, substantially as described.
5. The combination with the rotary take up and the adjustable thread guide therefor,
of the presser foot and the mechanical connections between the presser foot and said
guide for adjusting the same automatically, substantially as described.
6. The combination with the presser foot and presser bar, needle and needle bar,
and tension apparatus of a lock stitch sewing machine, of a take up and thread guides
for acting upon and holding the thread between the tension apparatus and the needle
eye wholly by rigid or positive devices, means whereby the point at which the
tightened thread is released may be varied, and a mechanical connection with the
presser foot, whereby the release is made sooner the higher the presser foot, substantially
as described.
7. The combination with the presser foot and presser bar needle and needle bar
rotary hook and tension apparatus of a lock stitch sewing machine completing each
stitch independently of a take up and thread guides for acting upon and holding the

page_text: thread between the tension apparatus and needle wholly by rigid or positive devices
means whereby the point at which the lightened thread is released may be varied, and
a mechanical connection with the presser foot whereby the release is made sooner the
higher the presser foot substantially as described.
8. The combination with a positively acting principal take up, of a positively acting
auxilliary take up, means whereby the loop drawn in and given out by the auxiliary
take up may be varied, a mechanical connection with the presser foot for adjusting
said means so as to increase the loop the higher the presser foot, and operating
mechanism connecting the two take ups with each other, substantially as described.
9. The combination with the presser foot and presser bar, needle and needle bar,
and tension apparatus of a lock stitch sewing machine, of a take up and thread guides
for controlling the thread between the tension apparatus and needle, wholly by rigid
or positive devices and means mechanically connected with and automatically adjusted
by the presser foot, for regulating the length of thread drawn in and given out in
forming each stitch and also the point at which the tightened thread is released, sub-
stantially as described.
10. The combination with a rotary take up of an auxiliary take up for modifying
the action in giving down thread and mechanism for connecting and operating said
take-ups substantially as described.
11. A Sewing machine take up, comprising a rotary part in combination with an
auxiliary reciprocatory part, substantially as described.
12. The combination with the rotary take up, of the. auxiliary take up, and the
adjustable thread guides for said auxiliary take up substantially as described.
13. The combination with the presser foot and presser bar needle and needle bar
tension apparatus and rotary hook of a lock stitch sewing machine completing each
stitch independently of a take up and thread guides for controlling the thread between
the tension apparatus and needle wholly by rigid or positive devices, and means
mechanically connected with the presser foot, for regulating the length of thread
drawn in and given out at each stitch and also the point at which the tightened thread
is released substantially as described.
14. The combination with a rotary take up of the needle bar provided with means
for acting upon the thread so as to constitute an auxiliary take up, substantially as
described.
15. The combination of the rotary take up the auxiliary take up and their two sets
up shifting or adjustable thread guides, substantially as described.
16. The combination with a sewing machine take up composed of a rotary and a
reciprocatory part, and the presser foot of the machine of means connected with and
adjusted by the presser foot for varying the action of said take up, in accordance with
the thickness of the work under said foot, substantially as described.
17. The combination with the needle bar and take up of a sewing machine, of a
rotary hook and mechanism for imparting thereto three revolutions to cach recipro-
cations of the needle bar substantially as described.
18. The rotary hook provided with a loop detainer on the outside of the point in
combination with the needle bar, the take up and mechanism for imparting three
revolutions to the hook for each reciprocation of the needle bar, substantially, as
described.
19. A rotary hook provided with a loop shedder and a loop detainer, substantially
as described.
20. A cup shaped rotary hook having its internal periphery of frusto-conical form
and provided with a point the full width of the hook in combination with a bobbin
case and a cylindrical bobbin supported therein with its axis parallel to or in line
with the axis of the hook, and a rotary shaft on which the hook is rigidly fastened
substantially as described.
21. The combination of the bobbin case provided with a frusto-conical barrel of
the cup shaped rotary hook having a frusto-conical periphery and provided with a
point the width of the hook, substantially as described.

page_text: 22. A bobbin case provided with a frusto-conical barrel, a rim at the enlarged end
of the cone and a spindle for the bobbin in the centre of the barrel, substantially as
described.
23. The combination with a rotary hook of a non-rotating bobbin case provided
with an overhanging projection, at the top of the case on that side of the needles
path towards which the point of the hook moves when taking a loop for catching and
retaing the inner strand of the needle loop as it is carried on by the point of the hook
substantially as described.
24. The combination with a rotary hook and a hanger for supporting the bobbin
case in the hook of the non, rotating bobbin-case provided with an overhanging pro-
jection at the top of the case on that side of the needle's path towards which the point
of the hook moves in taking a loop for catching and retaining the inner strand of the
needle loop substantially as described.
Twenty fifth-The combination with a rotary hook having an undercut groove
turned therein of a non rotating bobbin case supported in the hook from a stationary
part of the machine and having a projection for catching the inner strand of the
needle loop, shaped to enter said groove substantially as described.
Twenty sixth-The combination of the cup shaped rotary hook having an undercut
groove turned, in the inner periphery, with the non-rotating bobbin case having an
overhanging projection adapted to enter said groove substantially as described.
Twenty seventh-The combination with the rotary hook, of the bobbin case, pro-
vided at the upper part with a notch for the passage of the needle, and the stationary
projection extending into said notch to prevent the rotation of the bobbin case suli-
stantially as described.
Twenty eighth-A bobbin case having the face plate slotted for the passage of the
needle substantially as described.
Twenty ninth A bobbin. hanger provided with two projections, in combination
with a bobbin case suspended therefrom, said projections being on opposite sides of
the vertical line through the centre of gravity of the bobbin case, substantially as
described.
Thirtieth-A bobbin hanger comprising two projections for supporting the bobbin
case, and a projection between the two for preventing the rotation substantially as
described.
Thirty first: In combination with a bobbin case and a rotary hook, a bobbin hanger
supporting the bobbin case provided at the bottom with a bearing for the lower part
of the bobbin case substantially as described.
Thirty second: The hobbin hanger having a hollow shank for securing it in the
holder therefor, in combination with the screw driver or instrument for adjusting the
tension of the under thread, extending into or through said shank substantially as
described.
:-
Thirty third The combination with the needle bar and take up of a sewing
machine of a bobbin hanger, a bobbin case, a rotary hook, and mechanism for
revolving said hook three revolutions to each reciprocation of the needle bar sub-
stantially as described.
Thirty fourth-The combination of the bobbin hanger bobbin case rotary hook
provided with a loop detainer, and mechanism for giving said hook three revolutions
to each reciprocation of the needle bar substantially as described.
Thirty fifth-The combination with the sewing machine needle and the bobbin
case provided with an overhanging projection at the top of the case and on that side
of the needle's path towards which the point of the hook moves of the rotary hook
having a wide point which in passing over said projection, projects on both sides
beyond the end thereof, and having further a loop shedder on the outside of said point,
substantially as described.
:
Thirty-sixth The combination with the main shaft turning in bearings in the
gooseneck and the hook shaft below the work plate, of the mechanism in the standard
of the gooseneck having its parts proportioned as explained for giving said hook shaft

page_text: three revolutions for one of the former, and independent mechanism for moving the
feed surface, substantially as described.
Thirty-seventh-The combination with the tilting holder and finger movable there-
with, of the rock shaft forming part of the feed mechanism and the finger carried by
said rock shaft and moveable into and out of the path of the first named finger, sub-
stantially as described.
Thirty-eighth-The combination with the vibratory thread shield in the form of a
bent bar, of the journal pin having its bearings in the head of the machine and pro-
vided with a tranverse hole in which said bar is secured, the cross head and the pin
journaled in said cross head and surrounding and sliding over the upper end of the bar
substantially as described.
Thirty-ninth-The combination of the needle bar, rotary take up, rotary hook, and
mechanism for giving the rotary hook three revolutions to each reciprocation of the
needle bar, substantially as described.
Fortieth The combination of the needle bar, the crank and short pitmen for
operating the neeille bar, the rotary take up, the adjusting means for modifying the
action of the take up, the presser foot, the connection between the adjusting means
and the presser foot, and the rotary hook, substantially as described.
Forty-first: The combination of the main shaft turning in bearings in the goose-
neck, the needle bar, the crank and short pitman for reciprocating said neelle bar,
the rotary take up in the head of the machine, the adjusting means for modifying the
action of the take up the rotary hook the mechanism for giving it three revolutions to
each reciprocation of the needle bar the bobbin, the bobbin case and the bobbin hanger
substantially as described.
Forty two The combination with the needle bar and cup attached thereto of the
bushing or tubular bearing for said bar arranged so that the cup passes over it sub-
stantially as described.
Forty third-The combination with the needle bar and the presser bar of a sewing.
machine of a pivoted yoke provided with thread guides and connected with the presser
bar and a take up pin fastened to the needle bar the said pin leaving the thread to be
supported by said yoke when it descends below the thread guides therein substantially
as described.
Forty fourth-The feed mechanisin consisting of the following parts in combination
the feed eccentric the feed lever, the two rock shafts, the feed bar and the connections
between the feed lever and the rock shafts and also between the latter and the feed bar
the rock shaft which imparts the rising and falling motion to the feed bar having a
short arm connected with the feed bar and a longer arm connected with the feed lever
so that the vertical movement given to the feed surface is less than the throw of the
eccentric substantially as described.