Improvements in the Manufacture of Textile Fabrics, and in Apparatus therefor.
Year: 1894

page_text: Date of Application, 2nd Aug., 1894
Complete Specification Left, 27th Apr., 1895-Accepted, 29th June, 1895
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Textile Fabrics, and in
Apparatus therefor.
JAMES SIDNEY LENTON, 1 Bailey Lane, Coventry, in the County of Warwick-
shire, Designer, and RICHARD BOTHAM CALDICOTT, 28 Much Park Street,
Coventry, in the County of Warwickshire, Textile Manufacturer, do hereby
declare the nature of this invention to be as follows
The object of our invention is to produce textile fabrics, that shall vary in their
width; as for instance, in the making of a fabric for neckties or scarfs, we weave
the portions to form the tying part of a required width, and the portion to encircle
the neck, we weave narrower.
Our invention can be applied to all textile fabrics, in which varying widths in the
same piece of fabric are required.
In carrying out our object we preferably employ a loom, and we employ one or
more shuttles as may be required, and in cases where we think it necessary, we
make use of an improved slay, which we make in several parts, and when the warp
is drawn in a considerable width, one or both end parts of the slay we make to
slide by suitable means away from the middle part, when the narrow portion of a
fabric is being woven, so that the warp shall not have a tendency to spread when
the weft is beaten up.
In the weaving of our fabric we prefer to weave it in a tubular or pocket form,
although this is not necessary, except as regards the portion where we draw in the
warp at the edges, in which case, we make it tubular, in order to bury the warp
drawn in, and to form a required shape.
As an example of the manner in which we carry out our invention in the weaving
of a fabric in the shape of a necktie or scarf, we put the warp threads into the
loom and slay as may be required, the proportions put into the parts of the slay
being as may be required, we then weave the fabric with weft, using one or more
shuttles, as may be required, in the ordinary manner, using the whole of the warp
threads, until we have woven up to the point when we wish to weave only the
narrow portion which is to form the neck band of the tie, we then slide one or
both end parts of our improved slay, away from the middle part, and then continue
the weaving of the fabric, using only the middle portion of the warp threads,
until we have woven sufficient of the narrow portion to form the neck band, we
then slide the part or parts of the slay back into the original position, and continue
to weave in the whole of the warp threads again, until we have woven a sufficient
length. The loose portions of the warp threads left on each side of the neckband,
during the weaving of the narrow portion of the tie, are drawn in and float loosely
inside or outside the tubular band until again required for the weaving of the broad
portion of the fabric.
Dated this 1st day of August 1894.
H. & R. T. LORD,
Agents for Applicants.

page_text: Improvements in the Manufacture of Textile Fabrics, and in
Apparatus therefor.
JAMES SIDNEY LENTON, 1 Bailey Lane, Coventry, in the County of Warwick-
shire, Designer, and RICHARD BOTHAM CALDICOTT, 28 Much Park Street,
Coventry, in the County of Warwickshire, Textile Manufacturer, do hereby
declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:--
The object of our invention is to produce textile fabrics, that shall vary in their
width; as for instance, in the making of a fabric for neckties or scarfs, we weave
the portions to form the tying part of a required width, and the portion to encircle
the neck, we weave narrower.
Our invention can be applied to all textile fabrics, in which varying widths in
the same piece of fabric are required.
In carrying out our object we preferably employ a loom, and we employ one or
more shuttles, as may be required, and in cases where we think it necessary, we
make use of an improved slay, which we make in several parts.
In the weaving of our fabric, we prefer to weave it in a tubular or pocket form,
in order that when we come to the shaping of the shoulder and neck band part of
the fabric, the loose ends of the warp threads may be drawn in; but we can also
weave the broad portions of the fabric in a single form, and when we commence
the weaving of the shoulders, and narrow portions, we then make it in a tubular
or pocket form.
Figure 1. is a front view of our slay in three parts.
Figure 2. is a sectional end view of our slay in three parts.
Figure 3. is a view of a length of fabric of varying width in the shape of a
necktie or scarf.
Figure 4. is a draft showing the method of making our fabric in a tubular form
with the use of one shuttle.
Figure 5. is a draft showing the method of making our fabric in a tubular form,
in which a second shuttle is used, to assist in drawing in the warp threads.
As an example of the manner in which we carry out our invention in the
weaving of a fabric in the shape of a necktie or scarf B. as in Figure 3. we make
use of a slay A. in three parts a' a' a³, the middle part a' is fixed, and the two end
parts are made to slide back on pins a au a' that are fixed to the slay
frame C. Figure 2. shows the end part a², as moved back from the middle
part a'.
We fix the slay A. into a loom in the mauner, that slays in general use are fixed
in a loom. We put the warp threads into the loom and slay A, using one or more
sets of warp threads as may be required, the proportions put into the parts a¹ a² a³
of the slay A. being as may be required, we then weave the fabric with weft or
shoot, using one or more shuttles, as may be required, in the ordinary manner,
using the whole of the warp threads for the broad portion, of the fabric, until
we have woven up to the point when we wish to weave the shoulder, the narrow
portion, and the shoulder , of the tie or scarf B. We then slide the end
parts a², a³, of the slay A, away from the middle part a', the object of this is to
prevent the warp threads in the end parts a², a, from spreading out, when the weft
is beaten up, during the weaving of the shoulders, and narrow portions of the
fabric; we then continue weaving the fabric using as many of the warp threads as
are required, and drawing in the remainder of the warp threads, until we have
completed weaving the shoulder, the narrow portion ³, and the shoulder b'. We

page_text: then slide the parts a' a³ of the slay A. back again into their original position, anot
continue to weave in the whole of the warp threads again, until we have woven a
sufficient broad length 6.
The loose portions of the warp threads in the parts a² a³ of the slay A, or as many
of the them as are required are during the weaving of the shoulders and narrow
portions of the fabric, drawn in and float loosely inside the tubular band until
again required. This drawing in of the warp threads is accomplished by the use
of a Jacquard machine raising or lowering the threads as may be required, as
indicated upon the drafts, thus allowing the shuttle to pass over and under the said
threads, and so drawing them inside the fabric.
We can weave our fabric by using an ordinary slay such as is in general use, in
which case we draw in the warp threads across the front of the slay.
Figure 4. is a draft showing the method of making our fabric with the use of
one shuttle, and Figure 5. is a draft showing the method of making the fabric, in
which a second shuttle is used to assist in drawing in the warp threads. The dots C.
represent the shuttle making the cloth, and the dark squares D. represent the
extra shuttle which is used for drawing in. By a reference to the draft, Figure 4
it will be plainly seen, that the alternate picks of shoot or weft commencing with cl
in conjunction with the alternate warp threads commencing with c³ make the top of
the tubular fabric, the remaining picks of shoot or weft c³ in conjunction with the
remaining alternate warp threads cake the back of the tubular fabric. The
loops down the edges of the drafts, Figures 4 and 5, indicate the passage of
the weft, which commences as indicated by arrows C and D.
In cases where we wish to weave our fabric, ot a combination of a single and a
tubular cloth, we use a draft for a single fabric for the broad portion 6, 6, this
said draft may be of any ordinary character; and a draft for a tubular fabric for
the shoulders ², ^, and the narrow portion 63, of the necktie or scarf B.
By the methods described of weaving our improved fabric we can produce a
perfect continuous selvedge, throughout the varying widths of the fabric.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we
claim is :-
1. An improved method of weaving tubular, or a combination of single and
tubular textile fabrics of varying width, the said textile fabrics having a perfect
continuous selvedge throughout their length as described.
2. The employment of a slay in parts in combination with a loom, for the
purpose of weaving tubular or a combination of single and tubular textile fabrics
of varying width, the said textile fabrics having a perfect continuous selvedge
throughout their length as described.
3. An improved tubular or a combination single and tubular fabric of varying
width, the broad portions of which are woven with the whole of the warp threads,
and the narrow portions with only part of the warp threads as described.
Dated this 26th day of April 1895.
H. & R. T. LORD,
Agents for Applicants.