IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ORNAMENTAL TWIST LACE, AND IN MACHINERY USED THEREIN."
Year: 1863

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Alfred Topham, Joseph Topham, and Jabez Topham,
all of St. Pierre les Calais, in the Empire of France, Lace Manu-
facturers, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF
ORNAMENTAL TWIST LACE, AND IN MACHINERY USED THEREIN."
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Alfred Topham, Joseph
Topham, and Jabez Topham at the Office of the Commissioners of
Patents, with their Petition, on the 24th March 1863.
We, ALFRED TOPHAM, JOSEPH TOPHAM, and JABEZ TOPHAM, all of St. Pierre
les Calais, in the Empire of France, Lace Manufacturers, do hereby declare
the nature of the Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF
ORNAMENTAL TWIST LACE, AND IN MACHINERY USED
USED THEREIN," to be as
follows:-
This Invention has for its object improvements in the manufacture of orna-
mental twist lace, and in machinery used therein. In the machines usually.
employed in the manufacture of ornamental twist lace, although the warp
threads are able to move sideways by the action of their bars, the bobbin
threads have no such power, and when a warp thread crosses a bobbin thread
the crossing is taken up by the points of the machine to a position in the
fabric vertically over the carriage to which the bobbin thread belongs, and to
which the warp thread may have been moved. This greatly limits the power
of the machine, for although means have been found of moving the bobbin

page_text: threads or the tissue above the line to which the points rise by means of drag
threads, as is described in the Specification of a former Patent granted to us,
and dated 15th July 1861 (No. 1778), this means is capable only of a more
or less limited application. It has also been attempted to move the bobbin
threads sideways by giving a lateral motion to the corresponding take-up
points of the machine, some of the points being capable of movement inde-
pendent of the other points of the set; this method however is so inconvenient
that it has not come into general use..
According to the present Invention, we lead the bobbin threads sideways by
means of warp threads or threads worked like warp threads, which we call
"guiding threads;" they act together with the ordinary points as they rise, and
when in the working of the machine a portion of the work is arrived at whero
some of the bobbin threads require to traverso sideways, the movement is
effected by these guiding threads acting in such a manner as to cause the
bobbin threads to be taken by the points up to the position in the work in
which they are required, so that the tissue and the bobbin threads do not have
to be moved afterwards as when drag threads are used in accordance with
our said former Patent. The guiding threads employed for moving the bobbin
threads may be warp threads, forming part of the fabric, or, as is generally
preferable, they may be extra warp threads, that is to say, threads worked in
the machine like the embroidery warp threads, but which are drawn out of the
fabric in the process of finishing and after it leaves the machine. The guiding
threads are commanded by guide bars, actuated by the jacquard, and moved
in the following manner :-Before commencing to operate, the guiding thread
is brought by the action of the jacquard, and taken up by the points to the
position into which the bobbin threads may be required to be moved, then
the carriages being, say, in the front comb, the guiding thread is taken side-
ways, so as to pass across the bobbin threads, which it is desired to move, this
being dono the carriages of the bobbin threads come to the centre. At this
time in the ordinary action of the machine the crossing of the guiding thread
would be taken up by the points, but this is prevented by limiting the action
of the point bar, as is herein-after described. The carriages next go into the
back comb; then the guiding thread returns on the other side of the bobbin
threads to or near its previous position; the carriages again come into the
centre, and the points take up in the usual manner, and the bobbin threads
aro brought by the guiding thread to the position into which the guiding
thread has been taken previous to passing under the carriage threads, and in
this manner by the joint action of the points and guiding thread these bobbins
are led to the position in the fabric in which they are required to remain, or

page_text: thereabouts, leaving out of the question the natural settling down of the work
when it gets clear of the points. In like manner a bobbin thread may be
taken sideways, and crossed over the neighbouring bobbin threads, the guiding
thread being then moved across the bobbin threads, which are to remain
stationary before it is, as already described, caused to get around those which
are to be guided sideways. It will be understood that if the guiding thread
is not to be left in the finished fabric, other warp threads forming part of the
tissue are, in the same manner as the guided threads, caused to pass around
the bobbin threads, which are acted on by the guiding threads, so as to retain.
them in the position into which they are guided. In many cases also it will
be convenient to cause two or more threads to act together to perform the
duty of a guiding thread, so as to distribute the strain over several threads..
When it is necessary for a considerable distance down the work to keep some
of the bobbin threads away on one side of their natural positions, the operation:
of leading them off by a guiding thread and securing them is repeated as often
as required, but in the case of a repetition of the action there is this variation,
that at the time the guiding thread is being applied, the points, in addition to.
being prevented from descending, are also prevented from entering amongst
the threads, otherwise the loops or angles of the bobbin threads which there
would be over them would remain, and in some instances would disfigure the
fabric. The point bars, with the points fixed to them, are worked by cams in
the usual manner; these cause them in succession to take up the crossings of
the threads to the line of finished work, and there retain them, but in addition
to this ordinary method of action the point bars are governed by the jacquard,
for the two purposes herein-before mentioned; first, to prevent them taking
up when the guiding threads are being laid out, as before described; and,
second, to prevent them entering amongst the threads when a second time
tying in the bobbin threads. The governing of the point bars.we effect by
means of stops brought into action by the jacquard; these stops when brought
up so as to act prevent the point bar cams being followed by the arms, which
convey the motion from them to the point bars. There are, as is usual, two
cams or two sets of cams to a point bar, one for the vertical and the other for..>
the horizontal motion; and similarly we have two jacquard stops, one to keep
the bar from descending and the other to prevent it entering when drawn out,..
and when a stop is brought into action by the jacquard it locks the corre-
sponding cam arm, preventing the spring (with which, as usual, it is furnished)''
from keeping it in contact with the cam, the stop which limits the descent of:
the point bar allows it only sufficient motion to draw out and enter its points
again under the points of the other bar. The other stop similarly acts to

page_text: prevent the points entering. It is in many cases sufficient that one of the
point bars only should be put under the control of the jacquard.
Another part of our Invention consists in moving bobbin threads sideways
when required by means of a finger or fingers, supported on the ordinary point
bar; the point bar carries a complete set of fixed points, and the finger or
fingers in addition. The finger enters amongst the threads, together with the
points, and as the point bar rises, the finger, if bobbin threads are to be
traversed laterally, moves sideways during the rising of the point bar, its
action being governed by apparatus communicating with the jacquard, and thus
the finger places the bobbin threads where they are required, and as in the
case where guiding threads are used, crossings made with the warp threads
servo to retain them. To repeat the operation, so as again to secure the
bobbin threads if they are required to be kept for a considerable time out of
their line of work, the point bar, as before described, may be kept out of the
work so as to prevent loops of the bobbin threads being left in the work. As
the finger on the point bar acts to guide the bobbin threads whilst the points
are rising, they are able to do it with but little strain on the threads or tissue,
the motion of the point bar assisting in drawing as much thread from tho
bobbins as may be required.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Alfred Topham, Joseph Topham, and Jabez Topham in the
Great Seal Patent Office on the 22nd September 1863.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, ALFRED
TOPHAM, JOSEPH TоPHAM, and JABEZ TOPHAM, all of St. Pierre les Calais, in
the Empire of France, Lace Manufacturers, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-fourth day of March, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-three, in the twenty-sixth year
of Her reigu, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto
us, the said Alfred Topham, Joseph Topham, and Jabez Topham, Her special
licence that we, the said Alfred Topham, Joseph Topham, and Jabez Topham,
our executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as we, the said Alfred
Topham, Joseph Topham, and Jabez Topham, our executors, administrators,
and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to
time and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should
and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom

page_text: of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an
Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ORNAMENTAL TWIST
LACE, AND IN MACHINERY USED THEREIN," upon the condition (amongst others)
that we, the said Alfred Topham, Joseph Topham, and Jabez Topham, our
executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under our or their
hands and seals, or under the hand and seal of one of us or them, should par-
ticularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what
manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the
Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately
after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Alfred Topham, on behalf of myself
and the said Joseph Topham and Jabez Topham, do hereby declare the
nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement thereof, that is to say:―
This Invention has for its object improvements in the manufacture of
ornamental twist lace, and in machinery used therein. In the machines
usually employed in the manufacture of ornamental twist lace, although the
warp threads are able to move sideways by the action of their bars, the bobbin
threads have no such power, and when a warp thread crosses a bobbin thread
the crossing is taken up by the points of the machine to a position in the
fabric vertically over the carriage to which the bobbin thread belongs, and to
which the warp thread may have been moved. This greatly limits the
power of the machine, for although means have been found of moving the
bobbin threads or the tissue above the line to which the points rise by means
of drag threads, as is described in the Specification of a former Patent granted
to us, and dated 15th July 1861 (No. 1778), this means is capable only of a
more or less limited application. It has also been attempted to move the
bobbin threads sideways by giving a lateral motion to the corresponding take-
up points of the machine, some of the points being capable of movement
independent of the other points of the set; this method, however, is so
inconvenient that it has not come into general use.
According to the present Invention, we lead the bobbin threads sideways by
means of warp threads or threads worked like warp threads, which we call
"guiding threads;" they act together with the ordinary points as they rise,
and when in the working of the machine a portion of the work is arrived at
where some of the bobbin threads require to traverse sideways, the movement
is effected by these guiding threads acting in such a manner as to cause the
bobbin throads to be taken by the points up to the position in the work in

page_text: which they are required, so that the tissue and the bobbin threads do not have
to be moved afterwards as when drag threads are used in accordance with
our said former Patent. The guiding threads employed for moving the bobbin
threads may be warp threads forming part of the fabric, or, as is generally
preferable, they may be extra warp threads, that is to say, threads worked in
the machine like the embroidery warp threads, but which aro drawn out of
the fabric in the process of finishing, and after it leaves the machine. The
guiding threads are commanded by guide bars actuated by the jacquard, and
moved in the following manner :-Before commencing to operate, the guiding
thread is brought by the action of the jacquard, and taken up by the points to
the position into which the bobbin threads may be required to be moved, then
the carriages being, say, in the front comb, the guiding thread is taken side-
ways, so as to pass across the bobbin threads which it is desired to move, this
being done, the carriages of the bobbin threads come to the centre. At this
time in the ordinary action of the machine the crossing of the guiding thread
would be taken up by the points, but this is prevented by limiting the action
of the point bar, as is herein-after described; the carriages next go into the
back comb, then the guiding thread returns on the other side of the bobbin
threads to or near its previous position, the carriages again come into the
centre, and tho points take up in the usual manner, and the bobbin threads
are brought by the guiding thread to the position into which the guiding
thread has been taken previous to passing under the carriage threads, and in
this manner by the joint action of the points and guiding thread these bobbin
threads are led to the position in the fabric in which they are required to
remain, or thereabouts, leaving out of the question tho natural settling down
of the work when it gets clear of the points. It should be understood that
the guiding thread is to be sufficiently weighted to overcome the resistance of
the bobbin thread on which it is required to act. In like manner a bobbin
thread may be taken sideways, and crossed over the neighbouring bobbin
threads, the guiding thread being then moved across the bobbin tbreads,
which are to remain stationary before it is, as already described, caused to
get around those which are to be guided sideways. It will be understood
that if the guiding thread is not to be left in the finished fabric, other warp
threads forming part of the tissue are, in the same manner as the guiding
threads, caused to pass around the bobbin threads, which are acted on by the
guiding threads, so as to retain them in the position into which they are
guided. In many cases also it will be convenient to cause two or moro
threads to act together to perform the duty of a guiding thread, so as to
distribute the strain over several threads. When it is necessary for a con-

page_text: siderable distanco down tho work to keep some of the bobbin threads away on
one side of their natural positions, the operation of leading them off by a
guiding thread and securing them is repeated as often as required, but in the
case of a repetition of the action there is this variation, that at the time the
guiding thread is being applied, the points, in addition to being prevented
from descending, are also prevented from entering amongst the threads, other-
wise the loops or angles of the bobbin threads which there would be over
them would remain, and in some instances would disfigure the fabric. The
point bars with the points fixed to them are worked by cams in the usual
manner; these cause them in succession to take up the crossings of the
threads to the line of finished work, and there retain them, but in addition to
this ordinary method of action the point bars are governed by the jacquard
for the two purposes herein-before mentioned; first, to prevent them taking
up when the guiding threads are being laid out, as before described; and,
second, to prevent them entering amongst the threads when a second time
tying in the bobbin threads. The governing of the point bars we effect by
means of stops brought into action by the jacquard; these stops when brought
up so as to act prevent the point bar cams being followed by the arms which
convey the motion from them to the point bars. There are, as is usual, two
cams, or two sets of cams to a point bar, one for tho vertical, and the other for
the horizontal motion, and similarly we have two jacquard stops, one to keep
the bar from descending and the other to prevent it entering when drawn out,
and when a stop is brought into action by the jacquard it locks the corre
sponding cam arm, preventing the spring (with which, as usual, it is furnished,)
from keeping it in contact with the cam, the stop which limits the descent of
the point bar allows it only sufficient motion to draw out and enter its points
again under the points of the other bar. The other stop similarly acts to
prevent the points entering. It is in many cases sufficient that one of the
point bars only should be put under the control of the jacquard.
Another part of our Invention consists in moving bobbin threads sideways
when required by means of a finger or fingers supported on the ordinary point
bar; the point bar carries a complete set of fixed points, and the finger or
fingers in addition. The finger enters amongst the threads, together with the
points, and as the point bar rises, the finger, if bobbin threads are to be
traversed laterally, moves sideways during the rising of the point bar, its
action being governed by apparatus communicating with the jacquard, and
thus the finger places the bobbin threads where they are required, and as in
the case where guiding threads are used, crossings made with the warp threads
serve to retain them. To repeat the operation, so as again to secure the

page_text: bobbin threads if they are required to be kept for a considerable time out of
their line of work, the point bar, as beforo described, may be kept out of the
work so as to prevent loops of the bobbin threads being left in the work. As
the finger on the point bar acts to guide the bobbin threads whilst the points
are rising, they are able to do it with but little strain on the threads or
tissue, the motion of the point bar assisting in drawing as much thread from
the bobbins as may be required.
In witness whereof, I, the said Alfred Topham, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Twenty-first day of September, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-three.
ALFRED TOPHAM. (L.s.)