IMPROVEMENTS IN TAILORS' MEASURING DEVICES
Year: 1884

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
I, JOHN SIDNEY HAND, of San Francisco, in the County of San Francisco and
State of California, one of the United States of America, Merchant Tailor do
hereby declare the nature of my invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN TAILORS'
MEASURING DEVICES" and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
My invention relates to an improved mensuring device for the use of tailors iu
taking measurements for wearing apparel, and also to a process or manner for quickly
and easily transferring the measurements to the pattern and laying out the same.
The measuring device comprises a try-square aliding or mounted upon a vertical
rod, and provided with lazy-tongs carrying a graduated tape by means of which the
distance of the outer point of the lazy-tongs from the vertical standard may he
ascertained; and a pair of calipers attached by a pivot to the point of the lazy-tongs
and adapted for taking the diameters of various parts of the human figure.
In the accompanying drawings:-
Figure 1 is a side view of the device for taking vertical measurements, and
Figure 2 is a front view of the same, the calipers being omitted.
Figure 3 is a plau view of the calipers.
Figure 4 is a perspective view shewing the sliding try-square, the lazy-tongs and
the calipers.
Figure 5 shews the application of the measuring device to the human figure.
Figure 6 shews a diagram or pattern for a coat.
Similar letters of reference are used to indicate like parts in the several views
with the exception of Figure 6.
For the purpose of obtaining the heights or vertical measurements, and the
horizontal projections of the various portions of the figure from a given vertical
line, I employ a vertical, graduated rod A secured to the floor, and at the top, by
socketted plates B B and having mounted upon it the sliding try-square C.
The vertical arm of this try-square is furnished with grommets or collars D D
having set-screws E E, by which the square is clamped to the rod at any desired
eight
The horizontal arm of the square is provided with a hinge-joint, as shown in
Figures 1 and 4, for a purpose to be hereinafter set forth.
Upon the upper-edge of the horizontal arm of the square and between the
inge-joint and the inner corner or juncture of the two blades, I pivot the

page_text: lazy-tongs F, having upon its forward or outer end an index or pointer G to
which is attached by a hook or pin H, a graduated measuring tape I. This tape
passes backward and over a small pulley attached to the inner portion of the
horizontal arm or blade by journal-bearing plates J, J, and thence downward
within an open-ended slot K formed in the vertical blade or arm, and is kept
taut by a weight L attached to its lower end.
The corner of the try-square is mitred or rounded off somewhat, so as to bring
the upper end of the vertical blade on a horizontal line with the index or pointer G
in order that the height of the pointer from the floor-line may be accurately
indicated upon the vertical rod.
To the forward end of the fixed portion of the horizontal blade of the try-square,
I secure a semi-circular guide or rest L' which serves as a support for the inner
arms of the lazy-tongs to rest upon, as clearly shewn in Figure 4.
The calipers M are pivotted by one of their points to the forward end of the
lazy-tongs, and, when not in use, are swung back and partially rest upon, and are
supported by, the side arms of the lazy-tongs and the rest L'.
That point of the calipers by which they are attached to the lazy-tongs coincides
with the point of the lazy-tongs from which the horizontal measurements indicated
by the measuring tape I, are taken, and, when it is desired to use the said calipers,
they are swung forward and are used for the purpose of taking the diameters or
depths of various portions of the arms and legs, and also of the body. They are
formed with a backward extension of the legs, one of which is provided with a
graduated arc, and the other with a pointer by which the measure taken may be
indicated and read at sight, without the trouble of laying the caliper points upon a
separate scale for the purpose of determining their distance apart.
Having thus described the instruments used by me in measuring the form or
body, I will now proceed to describe the manner of taking the actual measurements
and laying out the pattern, selecting for the purpose of illustration a coat although
the same general principle is to be applied to the laying out of all garments of
whatsoever name or shape.
The person whose measure is to be taken stands with his back to the standard A
and the hinged blade of the try-square is turned back out of the way, so as to allow
the point of tho lazy-tongs to be caused to touch the person's body.
or
The try-square is first run up the vertical standard A, until the index
pointer G of the lazy-tongs is in line with the collar-seam A (Figure 5). The
height of said pointer from the base or floor-line will be indicated by the scale upon
the vertical standard, and the distance to which the pointer is projected outwardly
will be indicated by the scale upon the weighted tapo I, and these measures are to
be recorded in the usual manner.
I next ascertain the horizontal and vertical chest-measures by touching point C
(Figure 5) with the lazy-tongs, the person then raises his arm and one arm of the
calipers is passed around to the front and the depth of chest is taken. Next take
the horizontal and vertical measures of the waist at point D.
Then touch the point F to obtain the height of the next prominent point of
the seat.
Now get the figure to turn his side to the vertical rod and take the height of
shoulder at B, and also the width of shoulder from G to front, then take the
full length of sleeve to H. Now let the person face the vertical rod and take
height of neck at shirt-collar-button, height of first button and full length of vest.
Now measure with the inch-tape around the neck, scye, chest, waist, and seat.
The above will give the measurements for a coat and vest.
In taking the measurements for the pants, the person stands with his side
toward the standard A, and running out the lazy-tongs the height of the waistband
is taken and the horizontal projection of the pointer O, is also taken note of
When I take the seat-measure, the height of thigh, the height of the knee, and,
lastly, the bottom.

page_text: For convenience, when pantaloon measures are being taken, the man stands on a
small block or stool.
The lazy-tongs are allowed to go back, and the horizontal arm of the try-square
is straightened out and the leg-seam-measure is taken.
The calipers are now used to determine the width of the hips, also the width of
both thighs, knees, calves, and shins from outside to outside.
Next, with the inch-tape, I take the measure around the smallest part of waist,
then around the largest part of seat, close measure to determine the exact size
around the thigh, exact size of knee-measure, the calf-measure, and around the
shin above the ankle.
Now measure the fashionable width of pantaloons around the leg, and the
measurements are completed. For drafting the coat, I draw a line A A, which
represents the vertical rod. I then lay off on this line the points 1, 2, 3, and 4,
which rospectively represent the height of collar-seain, depth of scye, natural waist,
and seat, and carry out from these points, horizontal lines to an indefinite distanco
and lay off on the lines so drawn the horizontal distances indicated by the weighted
tape I, at the points where the various vertical measurements were taken, and
anark the points A, C, D, and F, as shown in Figure 6, and complete the run
of back.
By the neck-measure and the drop of neck at front, I find the oval of neck, and ·
lay off from A to 5, the length of oval, 5, being the drop of neck from 10, and
draw line A.-5.
Lay off from C to 6, the depth of chest from D to 7, the depth of waist and
from F. to 8, the depth of seat, and form the front.
Now carry point C, back to point 2, and straighten back by bringing point A;
to base-line, and as much above line 1-12, as it will go.
Then place end of oval at A, and the other end the drop of the neck in from the
base-line and mark around the oval which forms neck of back. Make width of
back according to fancy. Mark point 11, a distance from point 1, equal to the
difference between the first vertical measure and the height of shoulder. .
Lay off from 1 to 12, five-cighths of breast-measure and the difference between
the first and second horizontal measures.
Then mark the same distance from 2 to 13, and draw line 11, to 13, and form
back.
Cut out back leaving oval attached thereto. Now placo side of oval 14, to
point 12.
Make 12, a pivot and close shoulder until line 15, intercepts point 11.
Mensure from point 10 to 17, width of seye and complete shoulder and seye as
per diagram or Figure 6.
Mark neck by oval and measure from 2, to 18, one half of chest-measure from
19, to 20, one fourth of waist-measure, and from 21 to 22, one fourth of seat-
measure and complete the run of front.
Measure from 23 to 24, the difference between the second and third horizontal
measures, and forin sido seam at point of side body.
Measure width of back and side body so that point 10, will be one quarter of
the natural waist-measure from point 3 at natural waist.
From 21 to 25, is one quarter of scat-measure less width of back and draw line
length of skirt from point of side body seam through 25, for double-breasted frock-
conts. For cutaways, turn at 25, make waist-seam at front one half inch lower
than point of side body and this completes the forepart, back, and skirt, without
allowing for making up, which will depend on the judgement of the cutter and
the material he is using.
To lay out the sleeve shown by dotted lines in Figure 6, measure from 13, to 27,
one half of the scye measure.
•
Square down from 13, and lay off length of sleeve at 29.
Make sleeve head
at 28, height of shoulder; or to measure, as width of shoulder svary. In order to
take this last named measure the try-square on the vertical rod is placed on a lovel

page_text: with the point C, now mark where point of lazy-tongs touches the sleeve and
measure from collar-seam or from where it should be over the most prominent
point of shoulder to the mark on the sleeve. (In this way I obtain the correct
incasurement). Now form the sleeve head passing through point 27.
Whatever width the sleeve is made beyond point 27, is part of the under sleeve,
and has to be taken off the latter; complete the sleeve according to fashion.
One half of collar should be at point 12. This completes the coat.
To lay out the vest shown by broken lines in Figure 6, first mark the position
of the first button, as at 30, then the full length of vest as at 31, make foro part
three quarters of an inch more than the distance between 19 and 26.
Mark in from 3, one-and-one-half inches or the distance between 23, and 24, and
form back seam of vest.
Make shoulder of back the same width as shoulder of fore part and form scye of
vest by dropping the back at scye three-quarters of an inch, and complete vest by
allowing one-and-one-half inches for making up under arm.
Diagram 1 (Figure 6) represents a profile view of the person, giving the natural
run of his back and front, and bearing the same relation to the base-line as the
person bore to the vertical rod while being measured.
Diagram 2 shows the profile opened out to the breast-measures, and is a single-
breasted frock with two inches allowed on front and one inch to be allowed under
arm, every part affected must still bear the same relation.
That is to say, the inch must be carried down to waist-seam and skirt made one
inch wider.
Diagram 3 represonts vest cut by the same principle and at the same time as
coat, with the natural run of figure at the back and front.
It should hero be remarked that the calipers may be detached from the lazy-
tongs and used separately if so desired.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is :-
First. A tailors' measuring device consisting of a fixed vertical graduated rod,
upon which is adjustably secured the try-square C for the purpose of obtaining
vertical measurements, and the lazy-tongs F, pivotted upon said try-square, and
provided with a weighted measuring tape to determine the projection of the point
of the lazy-tongs when taking horizontal measurements therewith, substantially as
shown, and for the purpose set forth.
Second. In a tailors' measuring device consisting of a try-square provided with a
lazy-tongs and measuring tape, and sliding upon a graduated vertical rod, the
combination of a pair of calipers provided with a graduated arc, and adapted to
tako diametrical measurements, substantially as shown and described, for the
purpose set forth.
Third. The manner or process of laying off measurements obtained by the
measuring device herein described, and forming patterns for tailors' use in cutting|
out garments, substantially as horoin shown and described.
1004
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
For the Applicant.