IMPROVEMENTS IN TWISTING FRINGES OF SHAWL AND OTHER FABRICS
Year: 1854

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to George Collier, of Halifax, in the County of York,
Engineer, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN TWISTING FRINGES OF
SHAWL AND OTHER FABRICS,"
Sealed the 22nd August 1854, and dated the 25th February 1854.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said George Collier at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 25th
February 1854.
I, GEORGE COLLIER, of Halifax, in the County of York, Engineer, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN TWISTING FRINGES
OF SHAWL AND OTHER FABRICS" to be as follows:--
The Invention relates to machinery for twisting that description of fringes
obtained from the warp and weft threads which are left for that purpose in
the weaving of the fabric, of which the fringe is to form a part, and consists in
the use of rotating friction surfaces of vulcanized india-rubber or other elastic
material, between which and concentric plates, having cross lines or roughened
surfaces, the threads to form the fringe of the fabric are conducted. The
fringe threads are first divided by instruments into quantities as required, &
twisted, by being rubbed between the rotating surface and its concentric plate.
The quantities of threads thus twisted are then put together by other instru-

page_text: ments in pairs, and passed between a second flexible roller and its concentric
surface, by which they are twisted together in the opposite direction, forming
a twisted fringe.
Chalk or other material may be used when required upon the rubbing
surfaces, to counteract any greasy tendency of the fibre being acted upon.
A stop motion is applied to stop the machine, when any of the fringe threads
break or become deranged.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said George Collier in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
25th August 1854.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, GEORGE
COLLIER, of Halifax, in the County of York, Engineer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-fifth day of February, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-four, in the seventeenth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me,
the said George Collier, Her special licence that I, the said George Collier,
my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said George
Collier, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during
the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise,
and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the
Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
TWISTING FRINGES OF SHAWL AND OTHER FABRICS," upon the condition (amongst
others) that I, the said George Collier, by an instrument in writing under
my hand and seal, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of
the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and
cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar
months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said George Collier, do hereby declare
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement thereof (that is to say):
The Invention relates to machinery for twisting that description of fringes
which are obtained from the warp and weft threads, left for that purpose in the
weaving of the fabric, of which the fringe is to form a part.

page_text: DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.
It is well understood that certain description of fabrics to form shawls and
other articles with fringes, produced from the warp and the weft threads, have
in the weaving of them only a few warp threads at each selvage, sufficient
simply to form selvages for the return of the shoots of weft, and the warp
threads are omitted on each side to a distance corresponding with the length of
fringe desired to be produced, and these portions, where the warps are omitted,
are in the weaving covered only by the weft threads, and the weft threads cover-
ing such portions are to produce the side fringes. Then, in order to provide
for fringe transversely of the length of the warp, there are (at intervals deter-
mined upon as the length of each shawl or other article to be produced from
the fabric) portions where weft threads are not thrown in, except a few in the
middle of the length of such portions of warp, sufficient to retain the warp
threads together, and divide them into two lengths each, suitable to produce
the desired length of fringe from the warp threads to each adjoining portion
of fabric, for a shawl or other article desired. And in carrying out my Inven-
tion for improved means for twisting such fringes I employ two machines; one
for twisting the fringe threads produced from the weft next the selvages of
the fabric, the other to twist the warp threads left, as explained, by the
absence of weft as fringe threads, in a direction across the length of the
fabric.
Figure 1 shows a side or end view; and Figure 2, a front view of appa-
ratus, according to my Invention, arranged to twist the threads, which in the
weaving of the fabric are left at the selvages, so as to form the fringe at those
parts; the other Figures show some of the parts separately, in order to their
being better understood. a, a, is the framing of the machine, and 6-is the main

page_text: axis, which receives motion from a steam engine or other power, acting by a
strap or band on the fixed pulley b', affixed on the axis 6; c is the roller or
beam, upon which the fabric (the fringe threads of which are to be twisted) is
placed, in order to its being drawn through the machine; and d is the roller
or beam for receiving the fabric after passing through the machine. These
rollers or beams c and d are sustained in the open ends of lever arms c¹, c',
d', d', respectively; and to the opposite ends of these lever arms are suspended
weights c, d, by which the fabric on the rollers or beams c and d will be
kept pressed against the rollers e and f with a constant pressure, whatever
may be the quantity of fabric at any time on either of those rollers or beams.
The amount of pressure exerted may be regulated by varying the weights c³,
d. The fabric (which is indicated by the pink color g) is drawn through the
machine by the friction contact of the roller f, which I prefer to be coated
with coarse emery powder, or other suitable roughening material; or it may
have fine pin or card points, in order to its holding on to the fabric and
drawing it forwards. This roller f has motion given to it from the main
axis b, there being on that axis a drum or pulley f', which drives the pulley or
drum by means of the band or strap f³, and the drum or pulley f has
affixed to it a pinion f, which, with the pulley f, turns upon the stud f³, and
takes into the toothed wheel f, affixed on the axis of the roller f. The fabric,
in passing from the roller or beam c, passes over the roller e, which acts as a
guide roller, and thence under another guide roller h to the roller f. In
Figure 2, from g¹ to g shows the weft threads left without warp at each
side of the breadth of fabric, for the production of the fringe from the weft
threads, there being a few warp threads at the outer edges or salvages, as is
well understood, when weaving shawls and other fabrics, where the fringe
threads are obtained from the warp or weft threads composing the body of the
fabric. m, m, are endless straps or belts, which travel one at each side of the
machine, and carry pins or points, which take into the outer edges or ends of
the fringe threads next the selvages, for the purpose of keeping the fringe
threads distended during the operation of twisting. The straps or belts m are
each carried by the guide roller e and rollers n; the rollers n have affixed to
each of them a small drum or pulley o, partly around which and the roller f
passes a strap or band o¹, by which motion is given to the pulleys n, to cause
the straps of points m to move at the same speed as the fabric, whilst they at
the same time keep the fringe threads distended. p, q, are the rollers of vul-
canized india-rubber, or other suitable flexible material, which, in combination
with the concentric plates r, s, effect the twisting of the threads for the fringe..
The fringe threads are divided into quantities suitable for twisting, and are

page_text: then conducted between these flexible rotating surfaces and their concentric
plates by instruments, which I will now proceed to describe. The threads are
collected to be acted upon by each flexible surface p, by points projecting from
an endless band t, (one on each side of the machine), which has motion given
to it, to enable the points carried thereby to draw together a number of the
fringe threads suitable to be twisted together, and to conduct them between
the flexible surface of a roller p and its concentric plate r, when the rotary
motion of the flexible roller p will, in acting upon the centre of the length of
the fringe threads, cause them to be rolled together in a similar manner to
what such fringe threads are now rolled together by hand. As the fringe
threads thus twisted together into strands pass from between the surfaces p
and r, they are conducted between the flexible surface of a roller q and its
concentric surfaces, by a rotating point u, projecting from a spindle u. Upon
each spindle u is affixed a pulley u, which, with a pulley t' upon the axis of
one of the rollers carrying one of the endless belts of points t, has motion
given to it by means of the band v, as is shewn. The points u (one on each
side of the machine) take each time two of the strands twisted, by being rubbed
between the surfaces p and r, and they are then twisted together by being
twisted in the opposite direction, as is now the practice, when twisting such
fringes by hand, by passing them between the flexible surface of a roller q
and its concentric plate s. Thus the fringe threads on either side of the fabric
will be first twisted in quantities, and those quantities will then be collected in
pairs, to be again twisted together in an opposite direction. The parts p, q, r,
s, t, u, n, and o, are supported from side frames w, which are in part sup-
ported from the bar w¹ and partly from the tie bar a', with a capability of
being slided thereon, so as to adapt the position of the parts carried thereby to
the width of fabric being treated. ware set screws, by which the frames w
may be held in the position required. I form the flexible surfaces to the
rollers P and q as shown by the separate view of one of them at Figure 3;
where (1) is a spindle, towards one end of which is formed the collar (2); a
disc of vulcanized india-rubber (3) is then applied (to form a roller p or q),
and then the loose metal ring (4) is pressed against it, so as to hold tightly
the disc (3) by means of the screw nut (5). In the event of the outer surface
of the disc (3) wearing away, and thus becoming smaller in diameter, it may
be caused to expand by screwing up the nut (5). The mode of constructing
such rotating friction surfaces may, however, be varied. Rotary motion is
given to the revolving surface 9 on each side of the machine by there being
affixed to its axis a pulley (9'), partly around which passes the strap or band
(2), which receives motion from the main shaft, as shown, and this motion is

page_text: communicated to each roller p, by their being also affixed upon the axis of
each roller q a pinion g', which takes into and drives the pinion 22, affixed
upon the axis of each roller p. The concentric plates r, s, are each affixed to
or formed on plates 2, s, capable of adjustment, and of being set as required
by set screws, s², or they may be substituted by others of a different length
of segment, when required, to vary the amount of twist put upon the strands.
I sometimes apply a stop motion to stop the machine when any of the
fringe strands break whilst passing through the machine, and it simply con-
sists of a finger resting on the fringe threads, as they pass under operation,
and this finger supports a filling piece, which is capable of falling between a
projection from the strap fork and a vibrating arm, so that when the strands
break, or the fabric is all drawn through the machine, the filling piece falls
between the vibrating arm and a projection from the strap fork, by which the
driving strap will be moved from the fast to the loose pulley, and the further
movement of the machine will be stopped.
These movements for stopping the machine being so like those employed
for stopping other machinery, I have not thought it necessary to shew them
in the Drawings, as a workman will readily apply the same as required.
Chalk or other material may be used when required upon the rubbing
surfaces, to counteract any greasy tendency produced by the fibre being acted
upon. Figure 4 and 5 shew two sectional views of apparatus, according to
my Invention, arranged to twist the threads for fringe from the warp threads,
or those threads left in the weaving for fringe threads, transversely of the length
of the fabric. A, A, is the framing; B, B, are rollers or beams for holding the
fabric (which is represented by the pink color). The fabric is first placed on
one of these rollers or beams B, and passed over the guide rollers C, C, to the
other roller or beam B, in position for the portions of warp left, as explained,
without weft, to form the fringe to be acted upon by the twisting rollers p, q.
The portions in the part of the fabric in the machine supposed to be under
operation extend from 1 to 1 and from 2 to 2; the portion from 1 to 2 has a
few weft threads thrown in to divide the portion of fringe (1 to 1) belonging
to one shawl or other article from the portion of fringe (2 to 2) belonging to
the next adjoining shawl or other article. The twisting rollers p, q, and their
concentric plates r, s, are similar to the twisting rollers p, q, and their concen-
tric plates r, s, described in respect of Figures 1 and 2, and the twisting is
effected by them in like manner. In this apparatus the fabric is held station-
ary during the twisting of the fringe threads, whilst the twisting rollers and
parts acting therewith are caused to traverse across the machine, they being
supported by the frame F, which has arms and bearing rollers F¹, by which it

page_text: is supported and guided in traversing on the bars or rails G. In moving
across the machine to put twist on the fringe threads, the frame F moves in
the direction of the arrow F, and motion is given to it by means of bands
F³, one on each side of the frame; these bands being affixed to pulleys H upon
the shaft or axis H¹, to which rotary motion is given by a crank handle fixed
thereon, or by other suitable means. Rotary motion is given to the rollers
p, q, by means of stationary cords or bands I, which pass round pulleys D,
affixed on the axes of those rollers p, q; the rotary motion to those rollers
being given by the movement of the pulleys D along the cords I, in the tra-
verse of the frame F, and in like manner motion is given to the rollers of
points t and u by means of cords or bands J, which pass round pulleys J¹ on
The surfaces of the concentric plates
Kare
the axes of the pin rollers t and u.
and s, next the twisting rollers, are in this, as in the machine last described,
cut transversely in lines, or otherwise roughened, in order to facilitate the
rolling motion for the twisting effected by the flexible rollers p, q.
fingers to keep the fabric on to the points t and u. When the frame F and
parts carried thereby have been drawn across the frame by the cords or bands,
and have thereby put twist on the threads, the fabric will have to be wound
from one roller or beam B to the other, a distance suitable to bring a fresh
row of fringe threads into position to be acted upon by the twisting rollers,
and the frame carrying those rollers and parts will have to be moved back to the
opposite side of the machine, ready to be again drawn across by the bands F³.
And in order that in the back motion of the frame F the rollers and parts
acting with them may not interfere with the fabric, the upper part of the
frame F is connected to the lower by a hinge joint at F4, so that it may at
such time be lifted up, and rest at one end on the stop L', formed on the
spring L. By thus raising the upper part of the frame F the upper rollers
will be raised, so that by slightly raising the middle of the fabric, the frame F
may be easily moved back; at other times the catch L' formed on that
spring L serves to keep the parts of the frame F together. As the action of
the twisting surfaces in this machine in twisting the fringe threads would
have a tendency to draw the fabric sideways, especially at the edge thereof,
where those surfaces first act, I apply hooks M at the ends of cords M', to
hook into that edge of the fabric, in order to keep the fabric distended. I
would state, that in place of the fabric being held stationary whilst the frame
carrying the twisting means is caused to traverse, this frame may be arranged
to be stationary, whilst the parts carrying the fabric are caused to give a
traverse motion to the fabric.
Having thus described the nature of my said Invention, and the manner of

page_text: carrying the same into effect, I would have it understood that I do not confine
myself to the precise details shown and described, as variations may be made
therein, without departing from the peculiar character of my Invention; but
what I do claim is,-
The so arranging, combining, and working apparatus, as herein explained,
whereby rotating friction surfaces of vulcanized india-rubber or other elastic
material are caused to act with concentric plates, having cross lines or
roughened surfaces to effect the twisting of fringes of shawl and other
fabrics.
In witness whereof, I, the said George Collier, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Twenty-second day of August, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-four.
Witness,
WILLIAM BROOKES,
Patent Agent,
73, Chancery Lane.
GEORGE COLLIER. (L.S.)