IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ORNAMENTAL TWIST LACE, AND LOOPED FABRICS
Year: 1840

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, SAMUEL
DRAPER, formerly of Nottingham, now of Tiverton, in the County of Devon,
Lace Manufacturer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date at West-
minster, the Twenty-first day of September, in the fourth year of Her
reign, did for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me,
the said Samuel Draper, my exors, adiñors, and assigns, or such others as I,
the said Samuel Draper, my exors, adiñors, or assigns, should at any time
agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times during the
term of years therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use,
exercise, and vend, within England, Wales, and the Town of Berwick-upon-
Tweed, my Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ORNAMENTAL
TWIST LACE, AND LOOPED FABRICS;" in which said Letters Patent is contained
a proviso that I, the said Samuel Draper, shall cause a particular description
of the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be inrolled in Her said Majesty's High Court of Chancery
within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the
said in part recited Letters Patent, as in and by the same; reference being
thereunto had, will more fully and at large appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I; the said
Samuel Draper, do hereby declare that the nature of my said Invention, and
the manner in which the same is to be performed, are fully described and ascer-
tained in and by the following statement thereof, reference being had to the

page_text: Drawings hereunto annexed, and to the figures and letters marked thereon
(that is to say) —
My Invention relates,—
First, to improvements in the means of working the warp threads of twist
lace machinery, in order to their each being independent of the others, and
that the manner of working of each warp thread may be governed by
suitable pattern surfaces.
Secondly, my Invention relates to a mode of working the warp threads of
warp lace machinery, by applying two warp threads to each needle when the
same are caused to lap on to the needles by independent instruments, each
governed in its movement by proper pattern surfaces.
Thirdly, my Invention relates to a mode of moving the warp threads of
warp lace machinery, in order to the warp threads being more conveniently
governed in their movements, and separately selected and varied in their
manner of looping from time to time on the needles, by means of suitable
pattern surfaces.
And lastly, my Invention relates to an improvement of my former Inven-
tion relating to warp lace machinery, for which a Patent was granted to me
in one thousand eight hundred and thirty-seven.
.
And in order that my Invention may be most. fully understood, and readily
carried into effect, I will proceed to describe the best means I am acquainted
with for performing each part of my Invention.
The construction and mode of working twist lace machinery being well
known, and as the first part of my Invention relates only to the means of
working the warp threads, in order to their so combining with the bobbin
threads as to produce varying patterns, according as the separate warp threads
may be acted on by suitable pattern surfaces, no description of the various
parts will be necessary other than what relates to the application of my
Invention. The machinery, so far as it relates to the parts which actuate
the warp threads, is so arranged that, by means of four bars which act on the
warp threads, the various warp threads are racked to produce the pattern
desired, there being two of such bars to work the front and two of the bars
to work the back warp threads. In the machine, each warp thread is
independent of all the other warp threads, and may be selected or omitted
at each movement of the pattern surface employed, and by the aid of one or
other of the four warp bars the warp threads are racked. The lace wheels
are so formed or cut, that they would produce a plain woven fabric, if the
warp threads at all times remained working by the movements of those warp
bars in which the warp threads rest or remain when unselected by the

page_text: pattern surface, for at such times the other two warp bars have no effect
on the warp threads; but when any of the warp threads are selected, they will
be withdrawn from the bars by which they have been previously moved, and
placed in such a position as to be racked by the other bars, and will be con-
tinually acted on by such bars, so long as the pattern surface successively selects
such threads; but as soon as any of the warp threads are again unselected by
the pattern surface, those warp threads will be again worked by the first warp
bars. In order to distinguish the warp bars one from the others, I will call
them front and back selected warp thread bars, and front and back unselected
warp thread bars; and it is to be understood that the front and back warp
threads have at all times a tendency to remain in the front and back un-
selected warp thread bars, and as above stated the working of the machine when
in that state would produce a clove woven fabric; but when any of the warp
threads are selected, they are brought into a position to be actuated by the
movements of the selected warp thread bars, and so long as they are again
and again selected, the parts of the fabric where such threads are working
will be caused to be of an open character; and in order therefore to make
a plain twist lace or net, the warp threads are so caused to be worked, that
they are alternately selected and omitted. The Drawings shew this part of
my Invention applied to a double-roller locker machine, the parts of which
are shewn in outline, and for the most part have their names written on them.
The parts, by means of which I apply my Invention, are shewn tinted with
color, and such is the case with respect to the parts immediately connected
with the working of the improvements. The pattern surfaces employed are
what are known as Jacquard cards, to which in the present Patent I lay
no claim. And I would remark, that although I have shewn the improve-
ments applied to a double-bladed roller locker machine, I do not confine
myself thereto, as this part of my Invention does not relate to the means of
working the carriages of bobbin-net machinery. The machinery and lace.
wheels are suitably arranged for making what is known as straight-down, net,
that is, neither the bobbin threads nor the warp threads traverse from selvage
to selvage.
The nature of the various Figures of the Drawings being written thereon, it
will not be necessary to repeat them, and it will only be desirable to state
that the improvements, so far as they relate to twist lace machinery, are shewn
in the Drawings marked A; and in each of the Figures of these Drawings,
the same letters indicate similar parts wherever they occur. a represents the
back unselected warp thread bar; b is the back selected warp thread bar;.
c is the front unselected warp thread bar; and is the front selected warp

page_text: thread bar; and it will be seen that when the back or front warp threads are
worked by either of the bars a or b, or c or d, they will be out of the way
of the other of the bars. It should be stated, that the instruments on the
bars a and d, for receiving and working the warp threads, are similar to each
other; and the instruments on the bars b and c, are similar to each other;
the instruments on the bars a and d, consisting of a succession of spaces in
the manner of hooks, in which the warp threads lie, and the bars b and c have
a succession of openings or spaces, which are each in the character of cranked
combs, as it will readily be understood on examining the Drawings, where
these instruments, in addition to being shown in their places, are also shewn
separately full size. The warp bars a, b, c, and d, are each worked by a
lace wheel, which is shewn separately; and, as before stated, these wheels are
so formed with reference to the working of the bobbin carriages through and
through the warp by their ordinary movements, as to produce a close woven
fabric; and the ornamental lace is produced by the varied selecting of the.
different warp threads from time to time by pattern surfaces, which, inter-
rupting the formation of such close woven fabric, produce twist lace or net
with bullet holes, and only so much of the close woven fabric is allowed to be
produced in pattern as with or without bullet holes may be desirable in
making the ornamental twist lace required, and depending on the order in
which the cards are pierced. The warp threads are passed through what I
call beads e, e, the nature of which is clearly shewn in the Drawing; and to
each of these beads there are threads f, g, affixed, and to each of the threads
fis affixed.a small weight, and to each of the threads g is affixed a sliding
bolt. The threads f rest on bars j, j, and the threads g pass between the
spaces in the slay k, as will readily be understood on examining the Drawings
now under description. The sliding bolts i pass through holes formed in the
plates 1, 1, which are affixed at the back of the machine; and m, m, are a
series of bars, on which the threads g rest; n is what is called the Jacquard
cylinder, which successively brings up the pattern surfaces or perforated cards,
as is well understood. The Jacquard cylinder is worked up and down, by
means of the sliding bolts o, o, which slide up and down the brackets p, p, and
they are caused to slide up and down by the arms q, q, affixed on the spindle
bar or axis q', which is actuated by the cam r on the main axis, as is shewn,
by means of the surface of the cam working the arm q², affixed to the spindle
bar or axis q¹. The Jacquard cylinder and the parts which work it are kept
in a state of balance by the weight s. The Jacquard cylinder is kept from
turning by the spring t, excepting when forced round to change the pattern
surface, such spring by its upper end entering into notches formed in the plate t

page_text: T
as is shewn. The Jacquard cylinder is shewn in the highest position, and as
having just selected some of the sliding bolts, and omitting others, by their
being perforations in the cards opposite those which for the time being are not
to be selected, those which are selected by the cards being raised up; thus.
permitting the small weights of the selected bolts i to draw the beads to
which they are connected, to draw the warp threads from the back towards
the front of the machine, and by such movement bring such selected warp
threads in a position to be actuated by selected warp thread bars on the
descent of the Jacquard cylinder, and, consequently, the pattern surface; the
weight of the sliding bolts will draw back the threads, and leave them in the
unselected warp thread bars, where they will remain subject to the movement
of the unselected warp thread bars, if in the next ascending of the Jacquard
cylinder they are not again selected. The Jacquard cylinder is caused to turn
one fourth round at each time of descending after having selected; and such
turning of the Jacquard cylinder is accomplished by having" four projecting
studs v, v, at one end of the square frame called the Jacquard cylinder,
one of which studs comes down on the surface w of the lever x, such lever by
its upper end at all times being pressed towards the back of the machine by
a spring y, the upper end of the lever at all times resting against one or
other of the studs v. The four warp thread bars are actuated or shogged
end wise by means of the lace wheels shown in the Drawings, and the rises
and falls on such wheels cause and govern the movements of those bars, by
the bars being borne up by springs (as is well understood, but not shown in
the Drawings) to the levers, which are worked by the lace wheels, as is
shown in the Drawings, and which is well understood in giving the proper
racking motions, to guide bars in twist lace machinery. And it will be under-
stood that there are as many beads as there are warp threads, and 'the front
and back warp threads pass alternately through the succeeding beads. .And
I would remark, that in place of passing the threads through the beads, I
sometimes use thin plate guides passing through the beads, as is shown at
the Figure Z. In this case the thin guides move on an axis or wire at z¹,
and the warp threads are passed through the eyes in the guides z, the guides
passing through the beads, or else the threads f, g, are attached to the guides
in order to draw them towards the back and front of the machine.
I will now proceed to describe my improvements, so far as they relate to
warp lace machinery; and in doing so I would first remark, that the construc-
tion and mode of working warp lace machinery are well known. It will not be
necessary for me to enter into a particular description of all the parts shown
in the Drawings; these parts of my Invention being confined to the means

page_text: of applying warp threads in such machines, and for causing them to lap.
on the needles in order to produce looped fabrics. In the ordinary construct
tion of warp lace machines, there is a single warp thread for each needle,.
which are applied through guides on guide bars, and accordingly as the
pattern is more or less extensive and complex, there are a greater or less-
number of guide bars employed. But in some cases, since the date of my
Patent for certain improvements for producing ornamental lace or weavings,
bearing date at Westminster the. Twenty-seventh day of November, One
thousand eight hundred and thirty-seven, the most complex patterns are
capable of being produced, by having the instruments which work the warp
threads independent each of the others, and, consequently, capable of constant.
change in their mode of action.
The second part of my Invention has for its object to apply two warp
threads to each needle, where the instruments employed are independent
each of the other. The Drawings marked B represent this part of my
Invention applied to a warp lace machine worked by rotatory motion pro-
duced by a steam engine or other power. The names of the principal.
parts being written on the Drawings, and such being the case in respect
to the nature of each of the Figures or views of the machine represented
in the Drawings, it will not be rccessary to repeat them here, this part of.
the Invention being confined to the using two warp threads to cach needle,,
when independent instruments are used for lapping them on the needles. The:
Drawings shew the ordinary parts of warp lace machinery in outline, the parts
which are employed for lapping the threads on to the needles being colored,
but such colored parts are for the most part similar to what were described in.
the Specification of my said former Patent; but in this case the lever guides s,
in place of having each only one warp thread, such lever guides s have cach
two threads, and there are as many guides s as there are needles, and the eyes:
or openings in the guides s are sufficiently apart to allow of the bar which
carries the lever guides s being shogged endwise, and thus allow of the same
guide lapping the two threads it carries on to two different needles, by such.
means employing two threads to each needle: the fabrics produced by the
machine will be greatly improved, in addition to the extensive capability of
change of pattern which the machine formerly possessed, and which was fully
described in my said former Specification. The lace wheel, shown as applied
to the machine, is so formed or cut with rises and falls, as to cause the bar
which carries the lever guides s to rack in such manner as to cause the lever
guides to lap their threads (if not interfered with by a pattern surface) so as to
produce a plain woven fabric; and, owing to the circumstance of each needle-

page_text: having two threads lapped on to it, the fabric produced will be much more
close than when using only a single warp thread to each needle: and this
character will be retained in the fabric, both in the parts of the close orna-
mental pattern, as well as in the parts or pillars of the open work.
!
The lever guides s being shown separately, full size, as well as in their
places in the machine, and as their construction is only altered from my said
former Patent, inasmuch as their having each two eyes or openings for two
warp threads, it will not be necessary to enter into a description thereof, they
being now publicly well known, from the enrolment of my former Specification;"
but it, will be desirable to call attention to the circumstance of using slight bars
which act as dancing weights to each of the warp threads, in order to the warp
threads being kept sufficiently from hanging slack on the needles. , z, are
the dancing bars, which keep the threads from being slack; they have each'
two holes, one at each end thereof, a warp thread passing through one end,"
and a gut or wire passes through the other hole, and acts as an axis on which
the bars can nove, such gut or wire being supported at intervals by suspend-
ing threads or wires at ¹, from the bar, as is clearly shown in the Drawings.
The lace wheel is affixed on the main or back shaft, and it has been stated
that it is so formed that when no selection is taking place by suitable pattern'
surfaces, the working of the machine will produce a plain close woven fabric;
and it should be stated that when selection of any of the warp threads takes
place, the crossing of the threads which takes place when working by the lace
wheel without selection by a pattern surface are interfered with, and each
needle will produce a pillar or cord by the lapping and looping warp threads
thereon, such pillars being unconnected one with the other, until the selection
of such threads as have for the time being been making pillars be omitted, and
then crossings will be produced which will connect the pillars together, and
then form for any length of time a close weaving by repeated crossings of the
threads, which may again be interrupted, and open work be produced; and it'
will be evident that by such means, when worked by properly-formed pattern_
surfaces, any desired variety of pattern of fabric may be produced, depending
on the order in which the threads are selected, and omitted to be selected, by
the pattern surfaces.
It should be stated that the lace wheel is so formed as to cause the
threads to be racked considerably beyond what is required for working,"
unless when making fabrics with single pillars; by which means the sinker
nebs, in descending in the needles, pass in front of the threads across the
needles; and when the nebs are down, and the bar is racked back; the
threads will pass in front of the sinker nebs, and thus ensure the lappings of
"..

page_text: the threads to pass into the beads of the needles, and thus prevent the work
being pressed or forced off the needles, which would often be the case when
making single pillar, if such extra racking of the threads across the needles did
not take place, but which extra racking, when working with single threads with
ordinary guides, is well understood.
In order that the working of two threads on each needle by inde-
pendent instruments may be more readily and clearly understood, I will
now shortly explain the mode of working; and in doing so I will confine
my description to two independent guides and three needles, and I will suppose
such needles to be numbered 1, 2, 3, and that the guides s are marked s¹ and s²,
each having two warp threads. The top warp threads of the guide: 81 would
be lapped on to the needle No. 1, and the top warp thread of the guide s² would
be lapped on to the needle No. 2, the guide bar would then rack towards the
right hand by the lace wheel, and the bottom warp thread of the guide s¹ would
lap on the needle No. 2, and the bottom warp thread of the guide s would lap
on to the needle No. 3. By such lapping there would be two throads lapped
on the needle No. 2, and one warp thread lapped on each of the other needles
Nos. 1 and 3, and at the same the needles Nos. 1 and 3 would each receive a
second thread from other guides s, working with those needles Nos. 1 and 3,
and also with other needles, and consequently similar workings would be taking
place with all the guides s and all the needles, as above described in respect to
the guides s' and s², and the needles Nos. 1, 2, and 3, so long as the work
produced by the machine simply depended on the cut of wheel shown as
applied, which is suitable to work with the cam which works the Jacquard
cylinder up to select every other course. But I will continue my description
of working another course by means of the lapping of the threads of the
guides s¹, s, on to the needles Nos. 1, 2, and 3, which, by the cut of wheels,
would be as follows:-The top warp thread of the guide s' would be lapped on
to the needle No. 2, and the top warp thread of the guide s would be lapped
on to the needle No. 3. The bottom warp thread of the guide s¹ would be
lapped on to the needle No. 1, and the bottom warp thread of the guide s
would be lapped on to the needle No. 2; there would, therefore, again, be two
warp threads lapped on to the needle No. 2, but they would be the reverse
warp threads to what in the former course were lapped on to this needle; and
the two warp threads which in the former course were lapped on to the needle
No. 2 will in this course be lapped on to the needles Nos. 1 and 3; and such
will be the case in respect to all other of the guides s and needles across the
machine; for, when no selection takes place, all the needles work like those
which, for simplicity of description, I have spoken of as s¹ and s3; and supposing

page_text: that although (by the working of the machine) the pattern surface be raised, if
the card thereon be perforated so as not to select any of the guides, the two
courses of lapping above explained would be repeated, and the whole fabric
would be a close woven fabric. But supposing, that in working the third course
of lappings on to the needles, a number of the guides s were selected and lifted
by the pattern card being unperforated opposite such guides s, the parts of the
fabric opposite such guides would no longer be close, because there would be
no crossing of the threads at those places, and this may be made very clear by
continuing to describe the working of the guides s¹ and s³, with their needles
Nos. 1, 2, and 3, in performing the third course of lapping; and I will suppose
that the pattern card, in coming up, selects the guide and leaves the
guide s¹; the consequence of which would be, that the lever guide s¹ would
repeat its lappings in the same order as described in working the first-described
course, and such would be the case in respect to all other of the guides not
selected, and the guide s would, in consequence of being selected, cause its two
warp threads to be lapped in the same order as they were last lapped when
lapping the second course, and thus no crossing would take place of those
threads, but the top warp thread of the guide s will be again lapped on to the
needle No. 3, and the botton warp thread would be lapped on to the needle
No. 2; and such will be the case in respect to all of the selected guides s across
the machine. It will therefore be evident that, according as the pattern
surface employed selects, or omits to select, any of the guides or independent
instruments, so will be the pattern produced.
I would here remark, that although I prefer the lever guides s, as above
described, when carrying out this part of my Invention, I do. not confine myself
thereto, provided the independent instruments used be so arranged that, by
means of suitable pattern surfaces, they may be varied in their movement
from time to time according to the pattern surface employed; this part of my
Invention not depending on the form of the independent instruments, nor the
pattern surface employed, but consists in applying two warp threads to each
needle by independent instruments worked by pattern surfaces. And I would
further remark, that when the patterns to be produced are more complex, and
require the mode of lapping to be capable of change each course of the work,
I in such cases vary the cut of the lace wheel, and make it in the form of Z;
and in place of the Jacquard cylinder being raised at only every other course,
as is now shewn in the Drawings, the cam is so male as to raise the Jacquard
cylinder for selecting the guides for each course of lapping.
I will now proceed to describe the third part of my Invention, which is
shewn in the Drawings marked C, and as the parts are all drawn to the same

page_text: scale and arranged similarly to the machine shewn in the Drawings B, and
ás the working of a course will be similar, a very short explanation of the
independent instruments used in place of the guides s, and the mode of
their working, will be sufficient to enable a workman readily to apply this
arrangement of apparatus to work the warp threads of warp lace machinery
by means of suitable pattern surfaces; and this apparatus is very similar to the
apparatus, herein-first described, for working the warp threads of twist lace
machinery, and consists of a series of beads, one to each needle of the machine;
and the 'beads are connected to small weights and to sliding bolts to be
acted on by the pattern surfaces, which are shewn 'to be Jacquard cards. The
apparatus for lapping the threads is supported and carried by that part of the
machinery which is called "the machine," and it will be understood that the
Jacquard cylinder A is carried by two sliding bars B, which slide in brackets C
affixed to the end of the framing of the machinery, and the Jacquard cylinder
is caused to turn round one fourth each time it descends by similar apparatus to
that before described in respect to twist lace lace machinery; though the same
is not shewn in the Drawing, nor is the spring by which the Jacquard cylinder
is prevented turning when once set to its proper position, but a workman will
readily apply the same. D is the frame of two perforated plates in which
the sliding bolts E move, which are carried by and affixed to the end framings
of the machinery; F are the threads by which the bolts E are attached to the
beads; and G are the threads by which the small weights are attached to the
beads; the beads H having each two eyes through which the two warp
threads pass, the warp' threads passing through a slay which keeps thein
properly separated. I is what I call the lapping point bar, it having a row
of cranked points, with as many spaces as there are spaces between the
needles, and it is by means of this point bar that the warp threads are held
correct for lapping; this bar is affixed on levers J at each end, which move
on axes carried by "the machine," as is shewn, K being a connecting rod
which is attached at one end by a pin joint to the point bar I, and at its other
end by a pin joint to the lever L, such lever being actuated to raise and lower
the point bar I by means of the cam M. The Drawing shows the parts in
the position of pressing, and the lapping points I are out of the warp threads;
and the Jacquard cylinder by its cam has just been raised, and the pattern
card has just selected some of the sliding bolts, as is clearly shown, and the
movements of the parts to bring about these results will readily be traced in
the Drawings. In the continued motion of the machinery the lapping points
I will descend and enter the warp threads; as will be hereafter explained, and
hold them correctly in the spaces of the points when lapping, the 'threads

page_text: being supported by the bar N placed behind the slay bar, as is shown, which
bar N is affixed to and carried by "the machine," and the points of the
lapping points come just below the upper surface of the bar N when fully into
the threads, and when lapping they go together.
In order that the working of this part of my Invention may be understood,
I will shortly explain the manner of working the threads; and I will suppose
that the lace wheel and the cam for raising the Jacquard cylinder are suitable
for working the Jacquard-cards for selecting at every other course, as described
in the former part of my Invention, such lace wheel being varied to accommo-
date its movements to the altered circumstance of having to govern the point
bar in its entering the threads correctly, and then to produce the requisito
lappings of the warp threads on to the needles.
In describing the mode of working of the threads, I will suppose that there
is to be no selection of the warp threads by the pattern surfaces for several
courses; the consequence of which would be that the fabric produced would
be a plain close weaving. And I will again confine my description to any
two beads, which I will call H1, H2, working with three neighbouring needles,
which I will call Nos. 1, 2, and 3. As the beads are not selected they will
all range in one line, and the threads therefrom will be in two planes coming
together at the needles, the point bar is to be to the left hand. In descending,
the points. I come down and are racked to the right hand, and then enter
through the top plane of threads, and take one warp thread in each space of
the points, the point, bar will then rack to the left hand, and descend so as to
take the lower threads one between each space of the points; consequently.
the two threads from each bead will be on different sides of a point, the top
thread will be on the left hand of a point, and the bottom threads will be on
the right hand of that point, and then the lapping of the threads takes place
from left to right over one needle by the working of "the machine," as is
well understood, and the same points at all times work with the same needles.
The only difference being between the operation and "the machines" here-
tofore used-is, that there are no guides, and the threads are caused to lap on
the needles by the angular positions which they assume by the working of
"the machine;" and in working of the first course of lapping of the threads
the top thread of the bead H' will be lapped on to the needle No. 1, and the
5 lower warp thread of the same bead H' will be lapped on the needle No. 2.
The top thread of the bead H2 will be lapped on to the needle No. 2, and the
bottom thread of the same bead H2 will be lapped on the needle No. 3.-
The points rise out or quit the threads as "the machine"
goes back. Ins
working the second course these operations of the warp threads on the needles

page_text: are to be reversed by means of the lace wheel causing the top thread of the
bead H', in this instance, to be lapped on to the needle No. 2, and the bottom
thread of that bead H' lapped on needle No. 1. The top warp thread of the
bead H is to be lapped on to the needle No. 3, and the bottom warp thread
of the same bead is to be lapped on to the needle No. 2; and this is clone by
the point bar when descending being to the right hand; and before entering
the top plane of threads the bar is shogged to the left hand, and the points
enter amongst the threads, then shogg to the right hand, and enter amongst
the bottom plane of threads; by which means the top thread of a bead will,
in this instance, be to the right hand of a point, and the bottom thread of the
bead will be to the left hand of that point; and the lace wheel is to be so cut
as to perform these operations continually, and by so doing the fabric pro-
duced, as above stated, would be a close woven fabric; but, by the aid of the
selection which the threads are capable of at every other course by the pattern
surfaces, very ornamental warp fabrics may be produced. And in order to
explain how this is accomplished, I will suppose that the bead He has been
selected by the card, and that the bead H' has been left unselected; the
consequence would be, that the threads would now be in three planes con-
verging to the needles, and the point bar I in descending would come down
and pass amongst the selected and now upper plane of warp threads, and
would then shog and descend and pass amongst the middle plane of threads,
which middle plane will, in fact, be in the same position as the top plane of
the previous course; the points will then shog and enter the third or bottom.
plane of warp threads, by which means the selected threads of the bead-11
would be again lapped on to the needles in the same order they last observed,
whilst the threads of the bead H¹ would repeat the same order of lapping
as performed by them in working the first course, and by this means open
work will be produced opposite the selected beads. The next course will be
a repetition of the second course, as above mentioned.
If it be desired to work by selection at each course in place of every other
course, the cam of the Jacquard cylinder is to be formed to move up the
Jacquard cylinder to select for each course of lapping; and if it be desired to
work with only one thread to each needle, then there is to be a lace wheel
suitably formed, as described in my said former Specification.
It should be stated, that in making fabrics with single pillar, the same
precaution of racking of the threads is to be observed for getting them round
the nebs of the sinkers as was described in the previous machine, to ensure
the lappings passing into the beards of the needles that the work may not be
pressed off the needles.

page_text: I will now describe the fourth part of my Invention which relates to an
improvement of my said former Patent, wherein independant guides, or such
like instruments, were caused to work by being selected by pattern surfaces,
and such independent guide worked with a single warp thread lapping over
two needles when making finings or close weaving. I have since discovered
that it will be desirable to have the threads, when lapped over two needles, to
be pressed and looped on only one; for which purpose I apply a point bar with
as many points as there are spaces between the needles, such point bar being
so suspended as to work up and down with the sinker frame; but in addition
to such rising and falling, the point bar is to have a cam to raise the points
out of the needles when the lapping is taking place, and to allow the points
descending when the lapping has been performed; by which means the thread
lapped across two needles will not be passed under the beards of both needles,
but only under the beard of one needle, by which means a thinner weaving
will be obtained.
The Drawing marked D represents sufficient of the parts of my former
machine, as described in the said former Specification, as will enable a work-
man to carry out this part of my Invention of causing threads lapped on two
needles to be pressed under the beard of only one needle. A is the point bar
which is suspended in front of the sinkers by arms B from a spindle bar C;
the arms B resting on the upper part of the sinker frame go with it, except
at the time of lapping of the threads, at which time the point bar cam is to
come into action on an arm of the spindle bar to lift the points above the
needles, and to allow the points to descend when the lapping is complete, and
the lace wheel is to be so formed as to cause the selected guides each to lap
on only one needle.
Having thus described the nature of my Invention, and the manner of
performing the same, I would remark, that I lay no claim to any of the parts
separately, nor do I confine myself thereto so long as my improvements or.
either of them be retained. But what I claim is,-
First, the mode of actuating the warp threads of twist lace machinery, as
described in respect to Drawings marked A.
Secondly, I claim the mode of applying two warp threads to each needle
by means of independant instruments, as above described.
Thirdly, I claim the mode of actuating the warp threads of warp lace
machinery by independent instruments and apparatus as described in respect
to Drawings C.
And lastly, I claim the mode of working with single threads to each of
the needles by means of independent instruments worked by pattern surfaces

page_text: when lapping on two needles, by causing the thread so lapped on any two
needles to pass only under the beard of one needle, as above described in
respect to the Drawing D.
In witness whereof, I, the said Samuel Draper, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Twentieth day of March, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and forty-one.