IMPROVEMENTS IN BRACELETS AND NECKLACES
Year: 1878

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Clotilde Hubert, of Brussels, in the Kingdom of Belgium,
Manufacturer of Jewellery, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN BRACELETS
AND NECKLACES."
Sealed the 10th May 1878, and dated the 9th January 1878.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Clotilde Hubert at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 9th January 1878.
CLOTILDE HUBERT, of Brussels, in the Kingdom of Belgium, Manufacturer
of Jewellery. "IMPROVEMENTS IN BRACELETS AND NECKLACES."
This Invention relates principally to a peculiar description of bracelet made in
one piece without a fastening, and forming a spring, the said bracelet being capable
of being slipped on to the wrist by simply passing it over the hand.
The bracelet is composed of a spiral spring formed by taking a strip of metal and
bending it round so as to produce a hollow rod, which is then wound round a
mandril until a sufficient length is obtained, after which the helix thus formed may
be removed. The hollow rod is fitted previously to or during the operation, herein-
before described, with copper or brass (for making gold and platinum bracelets), or
with zinc or other metal, according to the metal of which the ornament is to be
manufactured. The article thus formed, after removal from the mandril, is sub-
mitted to the action of a corrosive agent. This treatment consists in removing the
basic metal by means of ordinary processes from the metal employed as accessory to
the manufacture.
The two ends of the spring are brought together and united by soldering,
rivetting, or other means well known to jewellers. The spiral spring possesses the
advantage of increasing the contractibility and elasticity of the bracelet.
The spring ring may be formed to a flattened, round, or other suitable section.
The strength and elasticity of the spring may be still further increased by a
tempering process well known to jewellers. new article is thus obtained, viz., a
metal bracelet possessing the property bitherto unknown of being capable, by

page_text: reason of its elasticity, of being passed over the hand and subsequently contracting
to the size of the wrist.
These bracelets may be made of any suitable metal, and gilded or plated by any
process applicable to metals, and ornamented in any convenient manner, as, for
example, by carving, engraving, inserting, or applying precious stones and plates of
any description.
The helix and the mandril may be of any desired form, and the bracelets may be
made of several metals, and several helices of different shape employed in com-
bination.
The Invention is likewise applicable to necklaces for ladies and children.
In some cases a chain or spiral spring may be inserted in the body of the bracelet
for the purpose of strengthening the same.
In lieu of making the bracelets in one piece, as herein-before described, they may
be made so as to open, the fastening in this case being effected by means known
to jewellers.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said Clotilde Hubert in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 29th
June 1878.
CLOTILDE HUBERT, of Brussells, in the Kingdom of Belgium, Manufacturer of
Jewellery. "IMPROVEMENTS IN BRACELETS AND NECKLACES."
My said Invention relates principally to a peculiar description of bracelet made in
one piece without a fastening, and forming a spring, the said bracelet being capable
of being slipped on to the wrist by simply passing it over the hand.
The nature of my said Invention and the mode of carrying the same into effect
will be readily understood by the aid of the several Figures on the accompanying
Sheet of Drawings, which I shall now proceed to describe, the same letters of
reference indicating corresponding parts in all the Figures.
Figures 1, 2, and 3 of the Drawings are elevations illustrating the several stages
in the manufacture of a bracelet, and Figure 4 shews the bracelet in its finished
condition and in the act of being passed over the hand of the wearer.
Figure 5 shews a bracelet composed of coils of a modified shape.
Figure 6 is another view of a bracelet.
Figures 7, 8, and 9 illustrate other modifications herein-after described.
The bracelet is composed of a spiral spring formed by taking a strip of metal and
bending it round so as to produce a hollow rod or tube a, which is then wound
round a mandril 6 (Figures 1 and 2), until a sufficient length is obtained, after
which the helix thus formed may be removed. Figure 3 represents the helix after
it has been removed from the mandril. The hollow rod is filled previously to or
during the operation of winding it upon the mandril with copper or brass (for
making gold and platinum bracelets), or with zinc or other metal, according to the

page_text: metal of which the ornament is to be manufactured. The article thus formed, after
removal from the mandril, is submitted to the action of a corrosive agent. This
treatment consists in removing by means of ordinary processes from the metal
forming the hollow rod tube, or covering the interior metal employed as accessory
to the manufacture.
The coiled rod or tube employed in the manufacture of the bracelet is formed
without solder, it possesses the advantage of increasing the contractibility and
elasticity of the bracelet. When it has been extended under the influence of tension
exerted on the extremities c and d (Figure 3), drawing them in opposite directions,
it resumes its original form as soon as the tension is removed.
When the helix has been formed on the mandril and withdrawn therefrom, and
the accessory metal removed in the manner herein-before described, the two
extremities c, d, are united together by soldering and rivetting, or by any other
means known to jewellers. The bracelet arrived at this stage of the manufacture
assumes the form of a ring made in one piece, as shewn in Figure 4, the point of
junction being invisible.
Figure 5 shews a bracelet made of coils of a square or rectangular section. The
strength and elasticity of the spring may be still further increased by a tempering
process well known to jewellers.
Figure 6 is another view of a bracelet.
Figure 4, herein-before referred to, illustrates the manner in which the bracelet
is placed on the wrist. This is effected with the greatest ease, as it is sufficient to
slip it on to the required place by passing the hand through it. The bracelet
stretches while passing over the hand, and contracts to its original shape when on
the wrist.
By means of my said Invention a new article is obtained, videlicit, a metal
bracelet possessing the property hitherto unknown of being capable, by reason of
its elasticity, of being passed over the hand and subsequently contracting to the size
of the wrist.
My Invention is equally applicable to necklaces. These bracelets or necklaces
may be made of any suitable metal, and may consist of one or more helices of the
same or of different size and shape employed in combination; the surfaces of the
same may be covered by any of the processes usually employed for metal surfaces in
general, such as gilding or silver plating, and may be ornamented in any suitable
manner by means of engraving, carving, chasing, or inlaying, or applying precious
stones or plates of any description. The rod a may be caused to assume varied
curves or sinuosities of a zig-zag or other description before being wound upon the
mandril b, such, for example, as the shape shown in Figure 7, so as to admit of
these bracelets or necklaces being manufactured in a greater variety of forins.
For this purpose mandrils of various forms are employed, several of such being
used simultaneously by alternating, or superposing, or otherwise combining
them by interlacing also or plaiting another variety of bracelets and necklaces
may be produced on the same principle, that is to say, possessing the requisite
elasticity although composed exclusively of metal.
In order to obtain these varied forms and effects a press is sometimes employed,
and forms, designs, and the like may be imparted to the metal while it is wound
upon the mandril or mandrils, which add to the beauty and richness of these articles
of jewellery.
In some cases, such, as for example, when the metal forming the helical spring
appears too slight, a chain or coiled spring may be inserted in the body of the
bracelet for the purpose of imparting solidity to the same; or again, the said helix
may be replaced by a solid wire or a strip of metal, either flat, corrugated, or cut
out in various forms. The manufacture in this case is effected by the same means,
that is to say, by winding, or plaiting, intertwining, and the like upon one or more
mandrils of any suitable form.
When two or more helices are employed, their respective convolutions are soldered
together, as shown in Figure 8, or the ends may be secured together, one over the

page_text: other, as shown in Figure 9, or they may be made to open; in the latter case the
fastening may be effected by any suitable means employed by jewellers.
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of my said Inven-
tion, and the manner in which the same is or may be used or carried into effect, I
would observe in conclusion that what I consider to be novel and original, and
therefore claim as the Invention secured to me by the herein-before in part recited
Letters Patent is,-
First. A bracelet or necklace composed of one or more helical springs, the
extremities of which are soldered together so as to form an elastic ring,
substantially as herein-before described, and illustrated by the accompanying
Drawings.
Secondly. A bracelet or necklace composed of one or more helical springs, the
extremities of which are capable of being united by a fastening, substantially as
herein-before described, and illustrated by the accompanying Drawings.
In witness whereof, I, the said Clotilde Hubert, have to this my Spcci-
fication set my hand and seal, the Eighteenth day of June, One thousand
eight hundred and seventy-eight.
CLOTILDE HUBERT. (L.S.)