Improvements in Button Hole and other Sewing Machines.
Year: 1891

page_text: Date of Application, 24th June, 1891
Complete Specification Left, 24th Mar., 1892-Accepted, 21st May, 1892
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Button Hole and other Sewing Machines.
We, VICTOR WITTE Merchant and SAMUEL BEACH COCHRANE Mechanician
both of No. 4 Newgate Street in the City of London do hereby declare the nature
of this invention to be as follows:-
Our improvements refer to various parts of sewing machines. Also to the
general combination and adaptation of parts so as to form a sewing machine
applicable by a simple interchange of one part as a lock stitch or a chain stitch
machine or double chain stitch machine and to the general combination and
adaptation of parts to form a button hole sewing machine.
The upper spindle is fitted with an eccentric and eccentric strap and rod and the
lower spindle with a crank disc having a transverse hole for a bar to be adjusted
in as to stroke and into which the crank pin is screwed. The bar is fixed by a set
screw which enters and is guided sideways in an oblong slot cut down to the hole
for the bar. The latter hole may be round square or dovetail shaped. The
bearing in the lower end of the eccentric rod may be spherical and the crank pin
end of a corresponding form, the bearing is then made with a cap. The eccentric
rod rocks upon a fulcrum pin fixed in the frame of the machine and working in a
slot in the eccentric rod.
We employ one or more "set tensions" each consisting of two cup shaped discs
mounted on a stud or screw provided with helical spring for pressing the discs
together the cotton passing between them. There is also an automatic tension
consisting of two cup-shaped dises one of which is mounted on a stud or plunger
whilst the other is either fixed to the arm of the machine or loose on the plunger.
The latter is provided with a spring which normally keeps the two discs together
but which is intermittently raised by a cam on the upper spindle. The lower part
of the plunger is preferably provided with an antifriction roller. We also provide
another automatic tension consisting of two discs mounted on a pin or screw and
normally kept together by a spring. By a wedge or other device actuated say
from the take up mechanism the discs are periodically made to release the tension
on the cotton.
The reel is by preference placed axially vertical under the guiding eye for the
cotton in such manner as to be reeled off without revolving or putting tension on
the thread. For this purpose we surmount it on the reel post by a cap or disc
having smooth edges and of a larger diameter than the spool and adjustable as to
height for any size reel.
For the take up we provide on the upper spindle a cam which acts on an arm of
the take up lever, the back action being given by a spring which always holds the
arm on to the face cam. Or instead of the cam and spring we by preference use a
grooved cam.
The cotton is threaded under a staple or between pins inside of the pin or hook
of the take up lever, through another staple or pins and down to one of the set
tensions.
To fix the needle in the needle bar, the needle being formed with a cross notch,
we fit on the needle bar a socket having a hole for a needle fixing bar, the inner
end of which enters the said notch in the needle. The bar is provided with a
shoulder for a helical spring to act against and against a cap. The bar passes
through the latter and has an outer knob which when pulled withdraws the bar
from the notch in the needle.
Instead of a helical spring a forged spring may be used. The same mode of
fixing is also applicable in other cases as will be seen in the sequel. The needle

page_text: plate is made to drop into its position and is held there by means of a spring thus
obviating the use of a screw or screws.
In a sewing machine constructed according to, our invention we provide in the
lower spindle a deep hole in its front end for receiving either a bar carrying at its
front end a rotating looper for making chain stitches, or a bar carrying at its front
end a hooked spool holder with spool for making lock stitches or a bar provided at
its front with a holder or driver containing a rotary shuttle for making lock
stitches or a bar provided with a crank disc and pin which operates in a differential
slot in a lever with a hook or needle for making double chain stitch. The bar is
in each case formed with a notch for holding it in position in its hole in the lower
spindle by means of a fixing bar similar to the one described for holding the needle
and which permits ready interchange of the said parts. The means for communi-
cating motion from the upper to the lower spindle are arranged as already described
and the reel and tensions also arranged as not to involve alteration when changing
the machine from a lock-stitch to a chain-stitch machine. The feed bar is mounted
in bearings and is actuated by two cams or eccentrics on the lower spindle one for
lifting the feed and the other for the horizontal movement. The presser foot is
preferably made to work pivotally on the lower part of a stud or piston in a
cylinder that is fixed on the presser bar, a spring being provided for the piston in
order to allow the presser foot to ride over any seams or inequalities in the work
without inconvenience, the front part or the back of the presser foot rising as
required.
In a button hole machine constructed according to this invention and made on
the general lines of the Specifications of the Patent No. 5493 dated 15th December
1881 and of the Patent No. 11013 dated 28th August 1886 we drive the lower
spindle from the upper spindle in the manner described. The automatic tension
named is arranged on the arm of the machine and serves to hold the thread rigidly
for a given period as determined by a cam on the upper spindle. A. slight set tension
of the form named is used therewith. The reel with its upper shield is placed on
the opposite side of the head of the machine from the operator. The cloth plate
upon which the clamp travels is held by a spring as described with reference to
the needle plate instead of screws for the purpose of easy detaching. The needle
plate is similarly held in the cloth plate. The feed cam wheel is driven by means
of a friction clutch or clutches. The length of stitches is regulated by a conical
eccentric or cam in connection with the bell crank lever in which a bowl or runner
works which eccentric cam or bowl is automatically shifted by a cam which may
be placed in the feed plate. At the bowl end of the shifting lever an adjusting
screw is fitted to the bowl block. We use four reciprocating loopers one for
making the twisted loopstitch and two in connection with the necessary case for
holding a ball of cotton, reel holder and tension for the purpose of obtaining the
so-called lockstitch and the other for obtaining the double chain stitch. These
loopers are interchangeable and are fixed in place by the same means as described
for the needle. The bobbin holder has a reciprocating motion imparted to it by a
cat, connecting rod or other convenient means. The needle bar and the hook are
reciprocated simultaneously by a cam on a spindle which works between the needle
spindle and the looper spindle and is rotated by two to one gear. The cam has
two deviations in its groove which impart movement to an arm provided with
friction roller, and by means of a link communicating reciprocating motion to
another arm the fulcrum or rocking shaft of which is on the opposite side of the
machine. Another arm on this rocking shaft communicates reciprocating motion
to the needle bar; for obtaining adjustment of the throw of the needle we employ
a sliding block working in or on a guide and by set screws or the like; the feed
wheel has two cam grooves on one side and one on the opposite side. It has also
on the former a concentric groove for the feeding appliance to take into. One
cam groove serves to shift by means of a bowl mounted in a slot in a lever
relatively to a conical driving cam or eccentric or cice versa. The second groove
cam on the same side serves to actuate a lever which shifts a slide in the aforesaid

page_text: link so as to vary the throw of the needle and loopers thus obtaining the “final
bar." The groove cam on the opposite side actuates the cloth clamp. The cloth
holding clamp is of usual form except as to the manner or means of spreading
and opening the same for which we employ eccentric or differential slot in a lever
and two springs which serve to open them apart vertically.
When the button hole has been cut the jaws are separated in parallel lines instead
of in V-shape as heretofore. The cutter instead of taking bearing as heretofore
upon a lever in a lug on the machine bed is now upon a cross bar or plate attached
to the stand, work bench or floor. The cutter arm is also held in hearings swinging
on two adjustable centre screws. The plate or plates holding the latter are entirely
disconnected from the machine and are made fast to the fable or bench or Hoor.
The cutter may be in the form of a saw blade mounted in a slot in a holder and of
a piece of steel tube having one end sharp for cutting and with a lateral hole for
the cuttings to drop out of the tube has a lower or side stem which fits in a hole
in the holder. In order to vary the length of the button-hole as desired a longer or
shorter knife may be used or a longer or shorter striking block; to enable the
operator to bar holes of varying lengths we shift the bowl or roller working in the
barring cam by means of a shifting rod which carries the fulcrum of the barring
lever. From the said fulcrum pin there is a connecting rod to the slide block.
The shifting rod terminates in a screwed part which is adjustable by a thumb nut.
Dated this 24th day of June 1891.
JENSEN & SON,
77, Chancery Lane, London, W.C., Patent Agents.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Button Hole and other Sewing Machines.
We, VICTOR WITTE, Merchant, and SAMUEL BEACH COCHRANE, Mechanician
both of No. 4 Newgate Street, in the City of London do hereby declare the
nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
These improvements refer to various parts of sewing machines also to the
general combination and adaptation of parts so as to form a sewing machine which
by a simple interchange of one part is made applicable as a lock stitch or a chain
stitch or a double chain stitch machine. The invention also refers to various parts
of and to the general combination and adaptation of parts to form a button hole
sewing machine with interchangeable stitch formers.
Figure 1 Sheet 2 is a perspective view of a sewing machine constructed according
to this invention.
Figure 2 Sheet 1 is a vertical longitudinal section and Figure 3 a plan view of
the underside.
Figure 4 is a front view with the covering plate removed and
Figures 5 and 6 are detail views of the front covering plate.
Figure 7 is a part back side view showing the means for raising and lowering the
presser foot.
Figure 8 is a cross section of the feed plate and the parts for operating it.
Figure 9 is a plan showing the spoolholder and spool and rotary hook for making
lock stitches.
Figure 10 is an end view of an automatic tension device.
Figures 11, 12 and 13 Sheet 2 are detail views of the presser foot.
Figures 14 and 15 are detail views of the needle plate.
Figures 16, 17, 18 and 19 are further detail views of the rotary hook lock stitch
mechanism.
Figures 20 and 21 are detail views of twisted loop or chain stitch mechanism.
Figure 22 is a detail view of the crank of the lower shaft.

page_text: Sreet Is a front view of the cam for working the take up and
automatic tension.
Figure 24 is a part end view of the rocking eccentric rod which communicates
motion to the second shaft causing it to revolve in the opposite direction to that of
the driving shaft.
Figure 25 Sheet 2 is a plan view showing the arrangement of the tensions.
Figure 26 is a section showing the mode of fixing the needle.
Figures 27 and 28 Sheet 3 are respectively end view and sectional side view
illustrating another mode of obtaining lockstitch by means of a rotary shuttle with
its bobbin and driving mechanism.
Figure 29 is end view of spoolholder and spool, and
Figures 30 and 31 are end view and side view of the rotary shuttle.
Figure 32 is sectional side view and Fig. 33 end view of a double chain stitch
mechanism.
The driving shaft 1 (Fig. 2 Sheet 1) which by preference is the upper shaft for
convenience of turning round the machine by hand is fitted with an eccentric 2 and
eccentric strap and rod 3 which rocks upon a-fulcrum pin 4 fixed in the frame
part A of the machine the rod being formed with a slot as shown also in
Fig. 24 Sheet 1 to allow of the up and down motion of the rod 3. On the fulcrum
pin fits a block 5 which may be made as shown cylindrical with a flat on each side
to work within the slot the block being free to oscillate on the fulcrum pin 4. The
lower end of the eccentric rod 3 has an eye in which works a crank pin 6 which as
shown in the detail section Fig. 22 has a spherical head; its bearing in the rod 3 is
made with a cap 7. The pin 6 is screwed into a bar 8 which fits and works in a
dovetail-shaped recess in the disc or collar 9 on the second shaft 10. Or the collar
might be formed with a round hole drilled transversely through it instead of the
transverse dovetail recess shown and in that case a round bar would work in such
hole and have the crank pin screwed into it, an oblong hole being cut down to the
said round hole to admit of the crank pin working therein. The spherical head of
the crank pin affords great freedom of working because it counteracts any slight
inaccuracy in the alignment of the parts. The machine can therefore be driven at
a greater speed than heretofore safe with such machines and with practically no
noise.
One or more << set tensions"
are employed together with two automatic tensions
one worked by a cam and the other by a sliding wedge. The preferred arrange-
ment of the tensions will be understood by reference especially to Figs. 1,2,4,5,6,10
and 25. In each case the tension proper consists of two cup-shaped dises 11 which
are pressed together by a helical spring 12, in the case of the set tensions per-
manently so, but in the case of the automatic tensions periodically inasmuch as a
cam or wedge in the latter case intermittently separates the discs 11. These
tensions will presently be described in detail.
The reel 13 Figs. 1 Sheet 2, 4 Sheet 1 and 25 Sheet 2 is by preference as here
shown placed axially vertical under the guiding eye 14 for the cotton in such
manner that the cotton is reeled off without the reel revolving and without putting
tension on the cotton. For this purpose it is surmounted on the reel post 1 by a
cap or disc 1 having smooth edges and of a larger diameter than the reel and
adjustable as to height for any size reel.
For the take up is provided on the driving shaft 1 a cam groove 16 Figs. 2
and 23 Sheet 1 which sits upon a pin on the end of an arm 17 on the rocking
shaft 18 of the take up lever 19 which latter has the peg 20 for the cotton to pass
around and also around the pins 21 and 22 on the front plate 23 Figs. 5 and 6.
Instead of the cam groove 16 a face cam may be used the back action being then
given by a spring which always holds the arm 17 on to the face cam the cotton
from the reel 13 passing up through the eye 14 as stated, is then passed round the
pin 27 Fig. 25 Sheet 2 and entered between the discs of a small set tension 28 and
between those of an automatic tension which is mounted on a plunger or piston 25
that is worked intermittently by a cam 24 Figs. 2 and 10 Sheet 1. The upper one

page_text: of the two cup-shaped discs 11 is fixed or loose on the piston 25 whilst the other
disc 11 rests on the bracket, that is secured to the arm B of the machine frame,
and is mounted loosely on the piston 25. The latter is provided with a spring 12
which normally keeps the two discs 11 together but which is intermittently raised
by the cam 24 on the driving shaft 1. The lower end of the piston is preferably
provided with an antifriction roller 26. The cotton passes thence forward again
through the eyes 29 and 30 the latter being on the reciprocating needle bar 40 and
between the discs of another automatic tension shown in Figs. 1, 2 and 5. The
dises are mounted on a pin or screw as in the case of Fig. 10 and similarly kept
together by a spring. The discs are periodically made to release the tension on
the cotton by means of a wedge 31 or other suitable device actuated say by the
take up as here shown viz. by a pin 33 on the take up lever 19 said pin working in
a transverse slot in the wedge 31 which is guided by a screw or stud 34 fixed in a
plate 32 and working in a vertical slot in the wedge 31. The plate 32 is held in
position on the head of the arm B of the machine by the stud 35 which also carries
the tension discs. The cotton then passes to the peg 21 the take up peg 20 and
round the pegs 22 and 36 and set tension 37 and peg 38 to the needle 39.
Figures 25 and 5 are part views illustrating a modified arrangement of the
tension and take up devices. The needle bar 40 has a projection 20 to supersede
the take-up lever 19-20 Figures 2 and 4. The automatic take-up tension shewn
in Figs. 2, 4 and 5 is replaced by an eccentric 16" on spindle 1 or on the crank
disc 16 thereon. On this eccentric works a fork 17" which is fixed on the rocking
shaft. 18, the latter having its bearing in a lug or bracket 18**. .On the shaft 18
is fixed or formed a lever 33" to the end of which is fixed the wedge piece 31" that
works in the wedge-shaped washer 32".
The needle 39 Figure 26 Sheet 2 is inserted in a socket drilled in the needle
bar 40 to the required depth the needle being formed with a bevelled head and a
notch at about the middle of its shank. To retain the needle in its place and to
determine its position the needle bar is formed with a collar 41 into which is
screwed a small cylinder in which works a piston 42 having an end collar 43. The
point of the piston enters the notch in the needle, being held there by a spring 44
which presses against the collar 43 and against a shoulder 45 in the cylinder. To
release the needle the hook 46 is pulled. Instead of a helical spring a forged
spring may be used. The same mode of fixing is also applicable in other cases as
will be seen in the sequel. The needle plate 47 is as shown in Figs. 14 and 15 made
to drop into its position and is held there by means of a spring 48 with projecting
flange 48 thus obviating the use of a screw or screws.
In a sewing machine constructed according to this invention and as here illus-
trated there is provided in the lower spindle 10 a deep hole in its front end for
receiving either a bar 49 carrying at its front end a rotating looper 50 such as
shown in Figs. 20 and 21 Sheet 2 for making chain stitches or a bar 49
Figs. 16, 17, 18 and 19 carrying at its front end a hooked spool holder 51 with
bobbin and case 52. In the bobbin case are provided means for holding the bobbin
in position and by the same means is obtained tension on the bobbin thread.
this purpose the centre post 52 is formed into a cylinder in which works a
piston 52 against the action of a spring. The piston is hinged to a spring blade :2°
which when in line with the piston allows the bobbin to be removed but when closed
holds it and at the same time puts tension on the bobbin thread by pressing against
a lip 52 formed on the outer edge of the case.
For
In Figs. 27, 28, 29, 30 and 31 Sheet 3 a bar 49 is provided at its front end with
a head 53 having two lugs 4 which work into an irregular groove in the inner
surface of the cam 55. The latter is by one or more screws held fast in a bracket 56
which is fixed to the cloth plate 57. Within the head 3 is placed a rotary
shuttle 58 containing a bobbin 59 for making lock stitches. In Figs. 32 and 33 a
bar 49 is provided with a crank disc 62 and pin 63 which operates in a differential
slot 64 in a lever 65 with a hook or needle 66 for making double chain stitch. The
bar 49 is in each case as shewn in Figs. 16 and 20, formed with a slanting groove

page_text: and a recess which is deeper than the groove adjoining it for holding it in position
in its hole in the second shaft 10 by means of a piston rod similar to the one +2
described with reference to Fig. 26 for holding the needle and which permits ready
interchange of the said parts. It will be further noticed that in Fig. 29 the stop 67
which pivots on the fulcrum 68 is held in place by a part 69 which is of the same
construction as the fixing bar 43 with a small cylinder and button 46 described with
reference to Fig. 26. Referring to Figs. 32 and 33 Sheet 3 it will also be noticed
that the fulcrum pin 70 is held in place by a similar device shewn at 71. The
means for communicating motion froin the driving shaft 1 to the second shaft 10
are arranged as already described and shewn and the reel and tensions also arranged
as described and shown and which are constructed so as not to involve alteration
when changing the machine from a lock stitch to a chain stitch or double chain
stitch machine.
The feed bar 72 Figures 2, 3 and 8 Sheet 1 is mounted in bearings 73 and is
actuated by two cams or eccentrics 74 and 75 on the lower spindle 10 one for
lifting the feed bar and the other for moving it horizontally. The spring 72*
tends to hold the feed bar 72 against the cams.
The presser foot 80 is preferably as shewn in Figures 11, 12 and 13 Sheet 2
made to work on a pivot 77 in the lower part of a stem 78 in a chambered
socket 79 that is fixed on the presser bar 81, a spring 81* being provided between
the head 78* of the shank 78 and the bottom of the socket chamber in order to
allow the presser foot 80 to ride over any scams or inequalities in the work
without inconvenience, the front part or the back of the pivoted presser foot 80
rising as required. The cylinder 79 is fixed to the presser bar 81 so to be readily
detachable therefrom viz. by the same spring and button device as described with
reference to the needle 39 Figure 26 and the bars 49 Figures 16, 20, 28 and 32
with their various stitch producing parts. In Figure 2 the pulley is made to run
loose on the boss of the balance wheel 82. Figure 7 shows the means for raising
the presser foot the presser bar 81 having a peg 84 against which the lifter 35
operates.
Figure 34 Sheet 4 is a side view partly in section of a button hole machine
constructed according to this invention and made on the general lines of the
Specifications of the Patent No. 5493 dated 15 December 1881 and of the Patent
No. 11,013 dated 28 August 1886. Figure 35, Sheet 4 is plan of under side,
Figure 36 Sheet 9 side view and Figure 37 Sheet 4 vertical longitudinal section
through the bed plate.
Figures 38 and 39 Sheet 4 are sectional detail views of rotary hook and rotary
spool holder and parts connected therewith as applied to a button hole machine.
Figure 40 Sheet 5 is plan of arm of machine frame shewing the mode of threading
up. Fig. 41 enlarged sectional side view of head with cam disc for the take-up,
Fig. 42 end view of cam disc, Fig. 43 front view of head of frame showing the
mode of threading up and Fig. 44 front view of head but with the covering plate
removed.
Fig. 45 Sheet 6 is part plan of the cloth feeding cam, Fig. 46 side view of same,
Fig. 47 plan of under side of same and Fig. 48 vertical section of same.
Fig. 49 is side view of stitch regulator and eccentric cam for the feed, Fig. 50
is end view of cam and Figs. 51 and 52 end view and plan of lever gear with cam
for vibrating the needle bar and the rotary hook.
Fig. 53 Sheet 7 is perspective view of the cloth clamp and Fig. 54 plan view of
same, Fig. 55 Sheet 8 is plan and Fig. 56 sectional elevation of the feed cam with
cloth plate.
Figure 57 Sheet 9 is part sectional side view of a modified form of button hole
cutting device and Figs. 58 to 63 are detail views of the button hole cutting
knife.
This machine is so constructed that it, while capable of running at a great speed,
stitches an entire button hole in one operation without stopping, the required
varying of the length of stitch being effected automatically during such operation

page_text: rotating hook.
UT GITC HOT IZOLAT LIITOW OL the needle and of the
a, Figs. 34, 36 and 41 is the first motion shaft which may be the upper shaft as
in this example and preferably so for convenience of turning round the machine by
hand. Motion is communicated from it to the second motion shaft so as to drive
the latter in the opposite direction by means of an eccentric a' with eccentric strap
and rod which is provided with a slot and vibrates on a fulcrum piu a the
lower end of the rod a being provided with a joint pin of ball shape as shewn
and described with reference to Fig. 22. The disc on the shaft a has a bowl a
which works in a slot can y fixed on the needle bar y the slot being of such a
form as to impart a slower motion towards the end of the down stroke to give time
for the loop to be formed.
The tension devices and take-up devices Figs. 40, 41, 42 and 43 are the same as
already described with reference to the sewing machine Figs. 1, 2, 5, and 6.
The cloth plate c Figures 34 Sheet 4 and 55 and 56 Sheet 8 is held in place
within the circular recess in the dish shaped frame d' that is fixed to the bed d on
one side by coming under the heads of two buttons and on the other side by
coming under a rod or slide 2 on a levere acted upon by a spring d.
By pressing on a knob at the opposite end of the lever the slide is withdrawn
so that the cloth plate can then be removed.
Under the cloth plate is the rotary feed wheel e which can turn on the hollow
central pivot of the dish shaped frame. The feed wheel has three cam grooves
viz. in its upper face a cam groove e and in the lower side two cam grooves and e
which cam grooves by the aid of various other devices accomplish the desired
object. In the cam groove e works a stud f proceeding down from the cloth clamp
or clip shewn in Figures 53 and 54 Sheet 7 presently to be described and causing it
to move in the required manner for sewing the button bole. In the cam groove e
works a gate e which passes through the bottom of the said groove and forms a
projection on the upper side of a lever or tumbler located in a recess in the
underside of the feed wheel and turning on a fulcrum pin 4. The hollow central
pivot is cut away on one side as shewn in dotted chain lines in Figure 47 Sheet 6
in order to allow the tumbler to recede into it when the eye part of the button
hole has been formed. is a cam groove in the underside of the feed wheel e in it
works a roller or pin which is held in a block this latter can be adjusted in
a slot formed in an arm of the lever having its fulcrum Figure 17. The
continuation of this lever is shown in Figure 49 the end of it having its bearing
on the doubly bent lever h which as shewn in Figures 35. 49 and 50 is impelled
by an eccentric cam on the second shaft b. The stroke of the clamp and the feed
of the feed wheel is thus regulated to give it automatically about five times longer
feed when going round the eye of the button hole than when stitching the sides.
It will be understood from Figure 49 and from the form of the cam groove that
the lever at such time that is to say twice in each revolution releases the lever h
so that the cam then gives the lever its full stroke. But while the side
stitches of the buttonhole are being made, the lever depresses the lever / so
far as to reduce its stroke to about one fifth. The acting length or leverage of
the arm can be altered and thereby the length of the stitches by means of the
adjusting screw which passes through a lug on the arm and is screwed through
a lug on the block g. To the end of the bent lever that turns on the fulcrum
on the bed plate is jointed a rod Figures 35, 47 and 49 to which is connected
a lever the fulcrum of same being on a clamp or clutch /*. To the latter
are pinned two blocks which can slide in the circular groove e of the feed-
wheel. To the clamp is also connected a block which bears upon the
outer circular circumference of the feed wheel and has two small lugs that work
in slots in the clamp. As the rod by the cam is moved in the direction of
the arrow,
the finger shaped end of the lever he presses the block against the rim
of the feed wheel and at the same time turns the latter slightly round. The
end of the clamp is held by a spring which is fixed to the frame of the

page_text: machine and serves to give the back stroke 4 is a brake block mounted on a
pin fixed on the frame of the machine and which by a spring is held up
against the periphery of the feed wheel for the purpose of preventing backlash
during its rotation. Or the brake block may be of the same construction as the
friction clamp. By this mode of working the feed wheel and of impelling the cloth
clamp the friction and wear of the latter are greatly diminished and its adjustment
is effected quickly and to the greatest nicety as will be described further on.
The feed wheel e has also a cam groove e' see Figures 45, 47 and 48 in which
works a pin or roller on a block k, the latter being held in position on a lever
made in two parts which are articulated at the outer end being normally held
up in a straight line by means of a spring. The block is held in position but
adjustably so by means of a rod Figures 35 and 37 the other end of which has
a block which can be fixed anywhere in a slot in the bed plate and in a slot k
in the bar p. The bar has an eye p through which the barring lever k¹ passes
and which forms its fulcrum. This bar p is by a screw p² held in the slot in the
bed plate but so that it can be adjusted therein. The other end of the lever ¹ is
adjustably jointed to a sliding bar / Figures 34, 35 Sheet 4 and 51 and 52 Sheet 6
by means of a block working in a slot therein and by the adjusting screws.
This adjustment is for altering the "bite" or distance of overstitch from the inside
of the button hole all round the eye and along the sides.
In order to prevent the roller & on the barring lever from being actuated by
the cam groove more than once for each button hole and as the feed wheel
makes more than one revolution for a button hole the peg e' coming in contact with
the eccentrically pivoted tumbler block turns the latter round so as to lift the
roller & out of its cam groove the tumbler block then riding on the projection e
and the next time of revolution the peg e will turn the tumbler block so as to
permit the roller to drop into the cam groove e again, the joint and spring on
the lever permitting these movements. The sliding bar has a dovetail feather
on its upper side, such feather fitting in a dovetail groove formed in a bracket A
which is cranked at one end and fixed to the bed of the machine. The other end
of the bar has on its upper side a projecting lug which takes into a slot in a cross
piece that at one end is jointed to a slotted lever m² fixed to the upright rockshaft m
see Figures 34 51 and 52 by a block m² working in a slot in the lever m² while
the cross piece at the other end is jointed similarly to a lever 14 by a block .
The lever is by a block jointed to a bar n the other end of which has a pin
or roller that works in a groove of the cam n' mounted on the vertical shaft n
which is driven from the shaft a by one to two gear wheels n' n°. To the lever m
is jointed the rod o. The extra length of stitch or travel of the needle bar and
looper required for the barring at the end of the buttonhole is effected by the cam
groove block k and lever acting on the parts and m and rod o.
The rock shaft m by means of a lever m³ on its upper end and a rod m jointed
to the lever and by two rods m³ and m Figures 34 Sheet 4 and 41 Sheet 5
imparts backward and forward motion to the needle bar y the latter being free to
work up and down through eyes on the said rods. Heretofore the needle bar and
the rotary hook have been worked backward and forward by cams and springs but
these latter cannot recover quickly. By means of our positive cam motion we do
away with springs, and thereby and by substituting the slight momentum of the
reciprocating stitch former for that of the whole shaft with stitch former we are
enabled to work the machine quicker. And we also provide for the simultaneous
adjustment of throw of both needle bar and stitch former.
In order to adjust the position of the block and roller in the cam groove e to
adapt the machine for the length of buttonhole to be worked the block of the
rod can be shifted in its slot in the bed plate and the fulcrum block p' has then
to be adjusted so as to preserve the same relative lengths of the two arms of the
lever and this is effected by shifting the bar its screw being adjustable in a
slot in the bed plate. By merely altering the relative lengths of the arms of the
lever without shifting the block k on the lever an adjustment is effected of

page_text: the first barring stitch or stitches so as to correspond with the "bite" stitches ɔlong
the sides of the button hole.
Heretofore the "barring" was effected by a cam and a spring and the operator
had moreover to stop the machine and move a lever once during the sewing of a
button hole. But by the use of the cam groove we do away with the objectionable
spring and can work the machine quicker and we do not stop it at all while sewing
a button hole.
10
The cloth plate e Figures 34 Sheet 4 and 55 and 56 Sheet 8 has the slot co
through which the peg from the cloth clamp Figures 53 and 54 Sheet 7 passes
and then enters into and is actuated by the cam groove e in the upper side of the
feed wheel. This peg has a lower rounded end, is contained in a cylinder f
and is held down by a spring therein is a lower plate with slot and two
raised parts. The central pivot 7 on the cloth plate e enters the slot 3 of the
plate which can turn thereon. On the plate are two roughened plates or
lower jaws which are guided by transverse feathers working in a groove in
the plate. The two columns are fixed in the plates f³ and by means of
springs support the upper jaws 10 to which are jointed the gripping plates f
with roughened under surfaces. The cloth is held between the plates f and f"
and the latter are depressed by the cam lever acting upon the cam fand
plate on the central column " The upper jaws are jointed to the
plate In order when the button hole has been pierced to open the same in
parallel lines (and not in diverging lines or V shape as heretofore whereby part
of the button hole had stitches that went too far from the edge while another part
had stitches that were too near the edge), the upper jaws 10 and the lower
jaws are opened by means of the eccentric or differential slots 15 shewn dotted
in Figure 54 formed in the lever 10 which turns upon the central column " the
columns working in the said slots 1. The plate ƒ has a handle f" for
turning the feed wheel e round into its starting position ready for another button
hole. For this purpose the peg f is lifted out of the slot. c in the cloth plate c by
taking hold of a button on its upper end and dropped into the slot and into the
nearest of the series of holes in the feed wheel e which can then be thus pulled
quickly round by one pull instead of as heretofore slowly viz. by a number of
successive pulls. The frictional gear for driving the feed wheel permits this action
if effected in the same direction as that of its driving motion.
The button hole cutter (instead of taking fulcrum bearing as heretofore upon a
lever in a lug on the machine bed which sometimes cracked and broke by reason
of the often repeated sudden blows and whereby the whole machine became useless
has now as shown in Figure 57 Sheet 9 its fulcrum pin or adjustable cone centre
Screws in a bracket attached to the table or work bench of the machine.
The pin g is in the lever or cutter arm 3. The lower short arm of the latter is
by a pin q jointed to one end of a double armed lever having its fulcrum. ' in
the lower part of the bracket . The other arm of the lever 9' is jointed to a
rod which is jointed to a link that is hinged to the plunger which carries
the knife
or cutter and to a link that is hinged to a column q fixed on the
floor. When the lever g³ is depressed the rod straightens the hinged links q
and go into one line thus raising the cutter r and piercing the cloth the descending
block forming the anvil. The machine bed is thus relieved of the heavy strain
which comes upon it by the construction heretofore used.
The block Figures 58 to 63 forms a holder in which is inserted a piece of
steel tube having one end sharp for cutting and with a lateral hole for the cloth
cuttings to drop out of. The tube has a lower stem which fits in a hole in the
holder. The straight cutting edge may be made of saw blade steel mounted in
a slot in the holder. In Figures 61 to 63 the tube has a lower outlet for the
cuttings and has a side stem against which a fixing screw bears.
In Figures 34 and 36 is shown a modified arrangement of button hole cutting
device. The anvil in this case is on the end of the piston rods of a piston
working in a cylinder ' mounted on the side of the machine head. t is a cylinder
D

page_text: having a piston the rod of which carries the cutter r From the top of the
cylinder and from the bottom of the cylinder t pipes and lead to a three-
way cock communicating with a pipe to an exhausting pump which by
eccentric on the first motion shaft a and by the rod is constantly working
When a button hole is to be cut the cock is turned suddenly so as to admit air
to the bottom of the cylinder t and to the top of the cylinder thus suddenly
destroying the partial vacuum in both places and flinging up the piston in the
lower cylinder while depressing the piston in the upper. Or a vacuum may be
created on both sides of the pistons and then by admitting air to one side of each
cause them to move with great power and suddenness. Or compressed air may be
accumulated in a reservoir and admitted as required to one side of the respective
pistons. In order to vary the lengths of the button hole a longer or shorter knife
blade may be used or a longer or shorter striking block or anvil 12.
Fig. 38 Sheet 4 is a sectional detail view of rotary hook or looper u for pro-
ducing chain stitch but made to reciprocate endwise for button hole stitching. For
this purpose it is on a shank u which has its end half cut away the stem ² being
cut away correspondingly. This latter is held in place in the second motion
shaft by means of a set screw which admits of shifting the stem ² and hook u
to any required position. In order to reciprocate the hook end wise it is held or
grasped (but free to rotate) by a carrier which is adjustably fixed on the rod o by
means of the set screw o¹. The form of the hook is improved as shown at * by
cutting it down at the root beyond the centre of axis, whereby space is afforded for
forming a broader or more open loop, thus preventing stitches being missed.
Fig. 39 is a sectional detail view of rotary spool holder e and parts connected
therewith of ordinary construction except as regards it being movable axially from
the rod o by a carrier similar to that shewn in Fig. 38.
By this construction of parts one machine is quickly adaptable to the sewing
with various kinds of stitch formers the tension and take up devices always
remaining unaltered as stated.
The process of making a button hole is as follows:-
t
The cloth clamp Figures 53 and 54 is placed upon the cloth plate with slot 3
Figure 53 around the needle hole hub c Figure 55 and the plunger pin Figure 53
is placed in one of the holes in the groove 8 in the cloth plate e nearest to the
operator. When in this position the material is placed in the clamp and is
firmly held therein by the lever 12, being pulled toward the operator the next
operation is to cut the hole which may be effected by the device shown in Figure 36
or by the device Figure 57. The button hole is then spread by the lever "
being drawn backward toward the operator. To place the clamp in position for
stitching the pin is lifted out of the cutting position hole in the cloth plate c
and the clamp is pushed forward till the pin will drop into the cam groove e in
cam plate e Figure 55. The operation of stitching is as follows; the hand or
balance wheel on upper shaft A is turned toward the operator so as to raise the
needle by the crank disc Figure 41 and 44, by the pin and antifriction roller a
the cross head y' and the needle bar y which as explained is reciprocated vertically
and at the same time has a horizontal reciprocating movement imparted to it
through rods m, m and m³ Figure 34 from the arm m³ on rocking shaft m..
vertical shaft Figure 34 is by two to one gear wheels rotated from the shaft a
Figure 34 and the cam groove in the disc n Fig. 35 causes the lever * Figs. 51
and 52 to be reciprocated twice in each revolution of vertical shaft n; the lever
imparts movement to arm m³ on the rocking shaft m through link 1. The rod o
imparts reciprocating movement from arm m² to spindle o which through its
driver reciprocates the looper for chain stitch, or hook with spool and ring for the
lock stitch (or it might be the crank spindle for the Grover and Baker or double
chain stitch). The feeding of the material forward is accomplished as follows: The
eccentric Figs. 49 and 50 on shaft b actuates the bent lever h which imparts
movement to rod ' which by friction clutch device imparts stepwise motion
to the cam wheel e. The clamp pin being in cam groove è as the cam wheel is
The

page_text: propelled forward step by step, the clamp is carried forward i.e. from the operator,
the straight part of the slot in cloth plate e guiding it straight forward until
one side of the button hole has been stitched the end of this straight slot having
been reached the latch e³ with its driver e Fig. 47 comes in contact with the clamp
pin and drives it into the semicircular part of the slot e in cloth plate c but at
the same instant the lever Figs. 35 and 48 releases the bent lever hand thus
then a stitch about five times longer is made than those made down the side of
button hole, this extra throw in feeding is during the stitching of the eye end of
the button hole and when the eye has been finished the clamp pin enters another
straight part of the slot e in cloth plate Fig. 55 which guides it straight forward
until the other side of button hole is finished. At the very moment that the clamp
pin enters the second straight part of the slot cº, the lever * Fig. 47 presses
upon the bent lever Fig. 49 and the stitch is thus again reduced to the same
length as on the other side of the button hole. The clamp turns completely round
the eye part of the button hole during its passage through the semicircular part
of the slot c. When the button hole has been completed so far as the stitching
down one side around the eye and down the other side the barring cam in the
groove e comes into action upon the lever i Figs. 35 and 45, this lever at its
other end acts upon the slide Figs. 51 and 52 imparting to it whatever deviation
the cam gives thus what is required for general barring is first a long stitch that
will step from the outside of one side of the button hole to the outside of the
other side and then stitches shorter and shorter till the needle has been brought to
a stationary point.
To bring the cam plate back to starting point the pin ƒ Fig. 56 is lifted out of
the cam groove e¹ and the clamp is pushed forward from the operator and the pin f
allowed to drop into one of the holes in the cam wheel e; the operator then with
the left hand takes hold of clamp handle /17 Figs. 53 and 54 and pulls the clamp
and with it the cam plate e around to the starting position.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what we
claim is
1. In sewing machines the improved means of communicating rotatory motion in
the opposite direction from the first motion shaft to the second motion shaft ris. the
combination of an eccentric, an eccentric rod with slot, a block working therein, a
pin fixed to the framing and around which the eccentric rod and block vibrate, the
other end of the eccentric rod having a part spherical eye, a crank pin having a
ball head working in said eye, a bar wherein the crank pin is fixed, and a disc fixed
on the second motion shaft and provided with a guide wherein the bar can slide
substantially as set forth and for the purpose of obtaining greater freedom of action
and consequent greater speed and practically no noise.
2. In sewing machines the general combination of parts forming the improved
tension and take-up devices which admit of great working speed and which in
machines having interchangeable parts for making lock stitches or chain stitches
and varieties thereof remain unaltered though the character of the stitches be
altered, substantially as set forth.
a
3. In sewing machines the means for readily fixing and detaching the needle, the
needle plate and other parts consisting of a piston adapted to work in a cylinder,
spring for impelling such piston, a rod, projecting from the piston and which enters
a recess in the part to be fixed, and a button for withdrawing it therefrom, substan-
tially as set forth.
4. In sewing machines a presser foot 80 in combination with a stem to which it
is pivoted and which has an upper head, a chambered socket which is detachably
fixed to the presser bar and wherein the head works like a piston, and a spring in
the chamber of the socket for giving the presser pivot a yielding downward pressure
which with the pivotting thereof allows it to ride freely over inequalities of the -
material in both directions, substantially as set forth.

page_text: 5. A. button hole sewing machine which while running at great speed stitches an
entire button hole in one operation without stopping, the required varying of the
length of stitch being effected automatically during such operation by the simul-
taneous variation of the throw of the needle and the hook, such machines being
characterized by a cam disc e having on its upper side a cam groove e¹ for propelling.
a cloth clamp along the two sides of the button hole, and, by means of a gate
around the eye end of the button hole; having on the underside a cam groove es
for giving movement to an adjustable lever which regulates the varying lengths
of stitch automatically along the two sides of the button hole and around its eye
end and controls the actuating lever which by a cam is moved backwards and
forwards, and which by a frictional clutch and brake, or ratchet gear or other
suitable means propels the wheel e, step by step, a spring giving the back action;
and having on the underside cam groove which actuates a double armed
articulated lever with adjustable cam roller and adjustable fulcrum for
regulating according to the length of button hole, the articulation of the lever
allowing the cam roller & to be lifted out of its cam groove when the cam part
of the said groove is to pass the can roller for the first time in one buttonhole
stitching operation and allowing the roller thereupon to drop into the cam groove
again, the lever being then the next time that the cam part of the groove e
comes round actuated thereby so as to swing the other end of the lever back-
ward and forward and to actuate the slide 7 and the link 12 thus controlling the
throw of the hook and needle riz. by means of levers m² and m³ on an oscillating
spindle m the cam part in the cam groove e being of such a form that the throw of
the hook and needle is varied according to the required gradual shortening of
stitches at the barring end of the button hole substantially as set forth.
6. In a button hole sewing machine the cam wheel e having a circular groove e,
in combination with a clamp which intermittently grips in the groove and
against the rim of the wheel e, a brake block 4 for preventing back lash, and a
retractile spring for imparting to the wheel e a step by step motion, substantially
as set forth.
7. In a button hole sewing machine a groove cam n¹ on a spindle a driven from
the shaft a at half its speed in combination with a lever having at one end a
bowl working in the cain n', a slot link jointed to the other end of the lever a², a
block working in the said slot and jointed to one end of a cross piece l, a block m²
jointed to the other end of said cross piece, a slot lever m', a vertical rock shaft m
upon which said lever is fixed, a lever m³ also fixed upon the said rock shaft, and
with connections to the needle bar y for imparting reciprocating motion thereto, a
rod o jointed to the lever m' and having at its other end a connection to a carrier e
which is adapted to impart reciprocating motion to the looper or hook, a bar
with dovetail feather and connected to the aforesaid cross piece, a bracket
fixed to the bed frame of the machine and provided with corresponding dovetail
groove, and the double armed articulated lever which by the cam part of the
groove e controls the horizontal throw of the hook and needle while the slots in
the levers and afford the automatic corresponding and simultaneous adjustment
of the barring stitches substantially as set forth.
8. In a button hole sewing machine a button hole cutter in combination with a
holder for same, a vertical guide for the holder an anvil and means for simul-
taneously and by one manipulation lowering the anvil and raising the cutter holder,
substantially as described and illustrated in Figs. 36 and 57.
9. In a button hole sewing machine the double armed button hole cutter lever
with anvil on its long arm and mounted on fulcrum in combination with a
fulcrum bracket which is fixed on the foundation for the bed plate, a double
armed lever having its fulcrum on the bracket and having one arm jointed to
the short arm of the lever g³, a rod 97 jointed to the other arm of the lever ga
standard mounted on the floor and having its upper end 7 moveable in a guide
and formed with intermediate articulated parts 7 and 7" to which the rod
jointed, and a buttonhole cutter mounted on the upper one 7, whereby when the
is

page_text: lever is depressed and the anvil lowered the cutter holder is simultaneously raised
substantially as set forth.
10. A buttonhole cutter consisting of a steel blade for the straight part of
the buttonhole, a steel tube for the eye part of the buttonhole, with stem and
outlet hole for the cuttings, and a block adapted to receive the blade ³ and
tube
11. In a button hole sewing machine with end recessed lower shaft a spindle ²
held adjustably in such recess by a screw u³ and cut down half way at its forward
end, a looper or hook having a shank cut down half way to correspond therewith
and means for reciprocating such looper in the shaft substantially as set forth.
$10
12. In a button hole sewing machine a cloth clamp consisting of a lower plate"
having a handle for turning it round by, a downwardly projecting peg with
impelling spring for engaging with the cam groove that impels the cloth clamp and
a button for drawing the peg out of gear and a central column fixed in the cloth
plate and provided with a cam at its upper end in combination with two
roughened lower jaws or gripping plates having each a column f fixed therein
means for guiding the plates transversely on the cloth plate, two upper jaws
fitting freely on the columns, springs to support the said jaws and the gripping
plates jointed to them, a cross piece fitting freely on the central column and
having oblong clearing holes for the columns and to which the upper jaws 10
are hinged, a lever handle 16 fulcrumed on the central column and provided with
eccentric slots the sides of which operate with the columns so as to open or close
the gripping plates in a parallel direction towards each other and a lever handle f
with cam which operates against the cam 13 to bring the upper gripping plates/"
down upon the material which rests upon the lower gripping plates substantially
as set forth.
13. The improved construction of rotary interchangeable looper described with
reference to Fig. 38.
14. The construction of buttonhole sewing machine described with reference to
the drawings.
Tad thin bith day of Manch 1900
JENSEN & SON,
77, Chancery Lane, London, W.C., Patent Agents.