IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OR PRODUCTION OF BOOTS & SHOES & OTHER COVERINGS FOR THE FEET, AND IN THE MACHINERY, APPARATUS, AND MEANS CONNECTED WITH SUCH MANUFACTURE
Year: 1859

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Julian Bernard, of the Albany, Piccadilly, in the
County of Middlesex, Gentleman, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS
IN THE MANUFACTURE OR PRODUCTION OF BOOTS & SHOES & OTHER COVERINGS
FOR THE FEET, AND IN THE MACHINERY, APPARATUS, AND MEANS CONNECTED
WITH SUCH MANUFACTURE,"
Sealed the 17th April 1860, and dated the 17th October 1859.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Julian Bernard at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
17th October 1859.
I, JULIAN BERNARD, of the Albany, Piccadilly, in the County of Middlesex,
Gentleman, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OR PRODUCTION OF BOOTS & SHOES &
OTHER COVERINGS FOR THE FEET, & IN THE MACHINERY, APPARATUS & MEANS
CONNECTED WITH SUCH MANUFACTURE," to be as follows:-
This Invention consists of a peculiarly formed last for the purpose of
effecting the operation of lasting or mounting with greater ease & expedition.
According to my said Invention, the last proposed to be used is constructed in
two or more pieces, the line of division extending from the back part of the
heel to or near the under side of the toe. The contact surfaces are fitted so
as to work easily together, & are provided with suitable stops & guides, as

page_text: also an eye or projection to which may be connected a chain or rope for the
purpose of moving the upper or sole portion in the direction of its length.
The last is mounted upon a flange or centre, upon which it is free to revolve,
& this latter rests on a surface or table, which is hinged or jointed so as to
afford great facilities for examining every part of the apparatus whilst it is
fulfilling its functions. Around the last & on the flange are placed, at con-
venient distances, horizontal shafts, which are capable of being turned in the
bearings provided for carrying them; to these shafts are attached suitably
formed spring holders for the purpose of retaining the upper in its position on
the last until further secured. These spring holders are so formed & placed
that they retain the material without interfering with the operation of attaching
the outer or intermediate sole to the upper.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Julian Bernard in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
17th April 1860.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JULIAN
BERNARD, of the Albany, Piccadilly, in the County of Middlesex, Gentleman,
send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Seventeenth day of October, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and nine, in the twenty-third year of Her reign,
did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the said
Julian Bernard, Her special licence that I, the said Julian Bernard, my executors,
administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Julian Bernard, my
executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no
others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the term therein
expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within
the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands,
and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OR
PRODUCTION OF BOOTS AND SHOES AND OTHER COVERINGS FOR THE FEET, AND IN THE
MACHINERY, APPARATUS, AND MEANS CONNECTED WITH SUCH MANUFACTURE," upon
the condition (amongst others) that I, the said Julian Bernard, my executors
or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one
of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the
nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be
performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office

page_text: within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said
Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Julian Bernard, do hereby declare
the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement, reference being had to the accompanying Drawings and to the
letters & figures marked thereon, that is to say-
My Invention consists of a peculiarly formed last for the purpose of
effecting the operation of lasting or mounting with greater ease & expedition.
According to my said Invention, the last proposed to be used is constructed in
two or more pieces, the line of division extending from the back part of the
heel to or near the under side of the toe. The contact surfaces are fitted so
as to work easily together, & are provided with suitable stops & guides, as
also an eye or projection, to which may be connected a chain or rope for the
purpose of moving the upper or sole portion in the direction of its length.
The last is mounted on a stand, which is hinged or jointed so as to afford
great facilities for examining every part of the apparatus whilst it is fulfilling
its functions. Around the last & on the flange are placed, at convenient
distances, horizontal shafts, which are capable of being turned in the bearings
provided for carrying them; to these shafts are attached suitably formed
spring holders for the purpose of retaining the upper in its position on the last
until further secured. These spring holders are so formed and placed that
they retain the material without interfering with the operation of attaching
the outer or intermediate sole to the upper.
And in order that my said Invention may be fully understood, I shall now
proceed more particularly to describe the same, & for that purpose shall
refer to the several Figures on the Sheet of Drawings hereunto annexed.
Fig. 1 on the accompanying Sheet of Drawings represents a side view of
my improved last & its adjuncts; Fig. 2 is an end view, & Fig. 3 is a plan
of the same.
The last is formed in two pieces, A & A', the line of division
extending from the bace part of the heel to or near the under side of the toe
portion, in this respect totally varying from the ordinary custom of con-
structing lasts. The contact surfaces are slightly curved, which peculiar
formation greatly assists the disengaging of the boot or shoe from the last
when it is desirable to do so. The upper portion is shewn provided with a
feather or projection, which fits easily in a groove formed in the lower part of
the last, & serves to retain the two portions always in the same relation
laterally to each other. The bottom part of the lower half is formed with an
enlarged portion B, resting on the surface table C; it is also provided with a

page_text: joint or centre, shewn at D, which allows the whole apparatus to be raised or
turned over. This arrangement is made for the purpose of enabling the
operator to examine the work in every direction, without risking its dis-
turbance of it after its properly adjustment, a desideratum which will be duly
appreciated by those practically conversant with these matters. E is a rack
which serves to retain the apparatus at any desired elevation; F is a lever
working on a joint G attached to the under side of the surface table. In
connection with this lever is a rack, shewn at H, for the purpose of retaining
the lever in any desired position; I, I, represents a chain or cord, one end of
which is attached to the lever, whilst the other extremity is connected to the
upper portion of the last, so as to cause this latter to travel in a longitudinal
direction according as the lever is moved upwards or downwards. The upper
being placed on the last, pressure is applied to the lever, which has the effect
of causing the top half of the last to recede from the front or toe portion,
thus tightening or bracing the upper effectually. On either side of the last
are placed horizontal spindles K, K, fitted with suitable handles L, L, &
being free to revolve in bearings, as shewn at M, M. Attached to these
spindles are a number of springs or fingers, shewn at N, N, N, and placed in
suitable positions so as to press round the edge of the last for the purpose of
firmly retaining the upper in its position. In connection with these levers
are placed toothed ares, which serve as detents to keep the springs or fingers
firmly in contact with the last, thereby preventing the upper from shifting
until it is further secured.
Fig. 4 shews my improved last detatched from the stand, where I propose
to use a conically-pointed pin O, passing thro' the lower portion of the
last into a suitably coned recess P made in the upper part, which has the
effect of giving the tight'ning or bracing action. By this arrangement I am
enabled to dispense with the retaining lever and other parts previously alluded
to. Fig. 5 shews the application of a method of using the joint or centre with
the ordinary form of last, and to which the spring fingers & the several other
adjuncts can be readily added when found desirable to employ such parts with
an ordinary last.
Having now described the nature of my said Invention, & ascertained the
manner in which the same may be carried into effect, I would observe, that I do
not limit myself to the precise arrangement of details as described, as the same
may be varied in many ways; but what I consider novel & wish to claim is-
Firstly, the peculiar construction of last as herein-before described &
illustrated.
Secondly, the securing or connecting lasts upon joints or centres, whether

page_text: such joints or centres be placed immediately in the last or in the stand or
holder to which the last is secured, for the purpose inspecting the "front
fore part, & also the "back" or heel part of boots & shoes.
39
Thirdly, the use & application of retaining fingers of retaining "fingers"
applied laterally against the edge of the last, whether such "fingers" be rigid
or elastic, and also the method & means employed for actuating the " "fingers."
Fourthly, the general arrangement & combination of parts as forming the
machine or apparatus shewn on the Drawing to be employed in the manu-
facture of boots & shoes.
In reference to the third claim in my Specification, I would remark that I
do not claim retaining springs or holders generally for the purpose of holding
the upper in position, as springs have been employed by me previously for
such purpose, & for which I obtained Letters Patent; but such springs differ
essentially in their mode of application, general arrangement, & effect to these
herein described & referred to.
In witness whereof, I, the said Julian Bernard, have hereunto set my
hand & seal, this Seventeenth day of April, in the year of our
Lord 1860.
JULIAN BERNARD.
(L.S.)