IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINERY OR APPARATUS PROAL SP
Year: 1867

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Joseph Craven of the Firm of D. & J. Craven, of
Thornton, near Bradford, in the County of York, Shawl Manufacturers,
for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINERY OR APPARATUS
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Joseph Craven at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 16th
January 1867.
I, JOSEPH CRAVEN, of the Firm of D. & J. Craven, of Thornton, near
Bradford, in the County of York, Shawl Manufacturers, do hereby declare
the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINERY
OR APPARATUS FOR FRINGING SHAWLS, MANTLES, OR SIMILAR ARTICLES," to be as
follows:-
This Invention consists in the application to ordinary sewing machines of
certain mechanical parts for the purpose of rendering them capable of pro-
ducing a fringe on shawls, mantles, and other similar articles simultaneously
with the process of hemming such fabrics by the same machine.
An arm capable of oscillatory motion carrying a needle is employed for
introducing the yarn or thread to form the fringe, which needle is inserted
through the edge of the hem or the folded edge of the fabric when formed by
ordinary folding instruments, the said needle thus passing the yarn between
the folds of the fabric; the ordinary hemming needle with its thread is then
inserted latterally through the folds of the fabric and between the fringing
needle and its yarn at right angles thereto, and on the withdrawal of the said

page_text: fringing needle the fringe yarn forms a loop around the stitch or thread intro-
duced by the hemming needle; the fringing needle is then withdrawn and
carried by the oscillatory arm outward or away from the hem of the fabric a
suitable distance according to the length the fringe is required to be made,
when the fringe yarn is caught by a hook which on the return movement of
the said oscillatory arm and needle holds the yarn in a loop at the outer end
of the intended fringe, and after another insertion of the said fringing needle has
been made into the hem of the fabric a knife or other cutting instrument is
caused to enter into or betwixt the said yarn which forms the loop and severs
it. A foot or projection is formed on the ordinary fabric holder which passes
between the folds or the hem of the fabric, holding the hem slightly open for
the fringing needle to enter freely betwixt the folds thereof; the fringe is thus
secured between the folds of the hem, the stitching thereof passing laterally
through the hem and the loops formed of the fringe yarn.
Motion is communicated from the main shaft of the sewing machine by
gear wheels to an additional shaft, on which are tappets or cams adjusted or
set to act at proper times for giving motion to the oscillatory arm or fringing
needle, also to the holding hook and to the cutting instrument. A carrier or
stud wheel is introduced between these gear wheels to admit of change wheels
being used, whereby any number of stitches by the hemming needle may be
introduced for one stitch of the fringing needle, so as to have the fringe yarns
at any distance apart from each other, or to produce either thick or thin
fringes, as may be required,
By this Invention the producing of fringe on shawls, mantles, or other
fabrics required to be fringed is done at the same time and operation as the
hemming process which has not heretofore been done.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Joseph Craven in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
15th July 1867.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JOSEPH
CRAVEN, of the Firm of D. and J. Craven, of Thornton, near Bradford, in the
County of York, Shawl Manufacturers, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Sixteenth day of January, in. the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-seven, in the thirtieth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me,
the said Joseph Craven, Her special licence that I, the said Joseph

page_text: Craven, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as
the said Joseph Craven, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should
at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times
thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make,
use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and
Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN SEWING MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR FRINGING SHAWLS, MANTLES, OR.
SIMILAR ARTICLES," upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said Joseph
Craven, my executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under
my, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and
ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same
was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal
Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the
clate of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Joseph Craven, do hereby declare.
the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement and accompanying Sheets of Drawings (that is to say):
This Invention consists in the application to ordinary sewing machines;
of certain mechanical parts for the purpose of rendering them capable of
producing fringe on shawls, mantles, or other similar articles simultaneously
with the process of hemming such fabrics by the same machine.
An arm capable of oscillatory motion carrying a needle is employed for,
introducing the yarn or thread to forin the fringe, which needle is inserted,
through the edge of the hem, or the folded edge of the fabric when formed
by an ordinary folding instrument, the said needle thus passing the yarn-
between the fold of the fabric; the ordinary hemming needle with its thread
is then inserted laterally through the folds of the fabric and between the
fringing needle and its yarn at right angles thereto, and on the withdrawal of
the said fringe needle the fringe yarn forms a loop around the stitch or thread
introduced by the hemming needle. The fringe needle is then withdrawn
and carried by the oscillatory arm outward or away from the hem of the
fabric a suitable distance according to the length the fringe is required to
be made, when the fringe yarn is caught by a hook, which on the return
movement of the said oscillatory arm and needle holds the yarn in a loop at
the out end of intended fringe, and after another insertion of the said fringing
needle has been made into the hem of the fabric a kuife or other cutting
instrument is caused to enter into or betwixt the said yarn which forms the
loop and severs it. A foot or projection is formed on the ordinary fabric..

page_text: holder which passes between the folds, or the hem of the fabric holding the hem
slightly open for the fringing needle to enter freely in betwixt the folds thereof.
The fringe is thus secured between the folds of the hem, the stitching thereof
passing laterally through the hem and the loops formed of the fringe yarn. -
Motion is commuuicated from the main shaft of the sewing machine by gear
wheels to an additional shaft on which are tappets or cams adjusted or set to act
át proper times for giving motion to the oscillatory arm or fringing needle, also
to the holding hook and to the cutting instrument. A carrier or stud wheel is
introduced between these gear wheels to admit of change wheels being used,
whereby any number of stitches by the hemming needle may be introduced for
one stitch of the fringing. needle, so as to have the fringe yarns any distance apart
from each other, or to produce either thick or thin fringes as may be required.
In order that my said Invention may be clearly understood I herein give
reference to two accompanying Sheets of Drawings of an ordinary sewing
machine with my improvements applied thereto.
DESCRIPTION OF TUE DRAWINGS.
Fig. 1 is the back elevation; Fig. 2 is part of the end elevation; and Fig. 3
is the plan view of same.
A is the ordinary stitching or hemming needle operated in the usual manner;
B is the oscillatory arm carrying the fringing needle C, which arm is mounted
on a stud B¹ fixed in a bracket B attached to the back of the stand or table
of the machine; D is a cam for operating the said arm or causing it to
oscillate, carrying the needle C to and fro betwixt the position herein shewn
and the point of the needle A; this cam is fixed on a shaft E supported by
brackets F also attached to the back of the stand. Motion is communicated
to this shaft by gear wheels G, G³, and G2 from the main shaft H, the inter-
mediate wheel G' being mounted on a carrier arm so that it may be changed
for other sizes in order to vary the relative speeds of the two shafts as may
be required; I is a hook to catch and hold the fringe J when it is drawn out
by the needle C; and K, K, are knives or cutters which after the return
stroke of the said needle C enter in and cut open the end of the loop which
has been formed by the hook; L is a foot or projection attached to the
ordinary fabric holder M which passes between the hem or folded edge of the
fabric when formed by the ordinary hemmer N slightly holding the hem or
fold open for the needle C to pass clearly in betwixt; this foot is shewn in
detail at Fig. 4. Fig. 5 is a cross section shewing the ordinary advance or feed
motion to which I have applied a cam X to act upon the rod Y for preventing
the spring Z from acting, and thereby not feeding at such times of action.

page_text: The mode of operation of this machine is as follows:-The edge of the
fabric to be fringed is passed through the hemmer or folder N in the usual
manner by which the hem is formed thereon, and the fabric is drawn forward
by the ordinary advance or feed motion. The foot passing in betwixt the
hem or fold; the arm B is moved forward by the action of the cam D pushing
the needle C through the fabric at the edge of the hem carrying the fringe
yarn J, which is supplied to the needle C from a bobbin or reel placed in
any convenient position, passing it through the said fabric betwixt the fold
thereof; when the needle A passes laterally through the hem and the yarn J,
the said needle C is then withdrawn from the fabric by the re-action or
return of the arm B, the fringe yarn passing through the eye of the needle,
and when the needle has arrived at the position shewn in these Drawings
the hook I with the cutters are caused to descend by the action of the cam R
acting upon a lever S fixed on a small shaft T, on which is also fixed an
arm U to which the cutters and hook are attached. On the continued action
of the said cam the book is raised, lifting the fringe yarn sufficiently high
for the oscillatory arm to pass under it, the needle again entering between
the hem of the fabric, carrying the fringe yarn through the hem of the fabric
where it is secured as before by the stitching or hemming thread. When the
cutters are lowered they are opened by the action of a spring, but on being raised
they are closed by one part coming in contact with a finger W fixed to the
frame of the machine, and thereby cutting open the end of the loop which has
been formed by the book.
In witness whereof, I, the said Joseph Craven, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Thirteenth day of July, One thousand eight
hundred and sixty-seven.
Signed, sealed, and delivered by the
within-named Joseph Craven, in
the presence of
ARTHUR B. CROSSLEY,
Clerk to W. Tasker,
Patent Agent,
JOSEPH CRAVEN. (L.S.)
Halifax and Bradford.