Year: 1896

page_text: We, HENRY SIMCOE, of 104, Lower Thrift Street, Foreman, and FREDERICK
BOSTOCK, of Victoria Street, Manufacturer, both in Northampton, in the County
of Northampton, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to the manufacture of boots and shoes of that class
wherein the sole is composed of a single layer of leather, and it comprises the
novel construction hereinafter described.
In carrying out the said invention the heel portion of the sole is split into three
substances or layers the "bottom" one of which (when the sole is on the last)
ultimately forms the sock or seat lining.
The front portion and waist of the sole are also split round to a depth of say
one and one quarter inches and then the "bottom" split or section is reduced by
say one quarter of an inch to form the feather.
The front and waist portions of the "top" of the sole are channelled in the usual
manner to receive the stitching.
The sole thus prepared is tacked to the last the "bottom" layer of the heel
which is to form the lining being turned back. The upper is now placed upon
the last and the lining of the upper is lasted around the front and waist into the
channel formed by the splitting, solution or cement being applied to secure the
lining between the two faces of the channel.
The leather portion of the upper corresponding with the lasted portion of the
lining is now turned outwards and cemented on to the sole and then stitched
round.
The heel portion of the upper is secured between the top and middle layers of the
seat and when the heel is applied the "bottom" layer is turned back and cemented
down to form the lining.
G. F. REDFERN & Co.,
4, South Street, Finsbury, London, Agents for the Applicants.

page_text: Improvements in the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes.
We, HENRY SIMCOE, of 104, Lower Thrift Street, Foreman, and FREDERICK
BOSTOCK, of Victoria Street, Manufacturer, both in Northampton, in the County
of Northampton, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement:-
This invention relates to the manufacture of boots and shoes of that class
wherein the sole is composed of a single layer of leather, and it comprises the
novel construction hereinafter described.
In the accompanying drawings,--
Figure 1 is a sectional side view of a shoe manufactured in accordance with
our invention; and,
Figures 2 and 3 are longitudinal sections illustrating the construction of the
sole:
Figure 4 is a plan view of the sole as shewn in Figure 3.
A boot or shoe constructed according to our invention has the heel portion of the
sole a split into three substances or layers b, c, d (the latter of which ultimately
forms the sock or seat lining) and the edge of the sole around the front and waist
portions split to form the feather e the slit f forming the said feather extending
into the slit between the heel layers b and c, all as shown in Figure 2. After the
slit f has been made the feather c is reduced in width by cutting off the edge as
shown in Figures 3 and 4.
As shewn in Figure 3 the slit f is represented as having a depth of about seven
eighths of an inch and the feather e as trimmed down to a width of five eighths of
an inch; it is to be understood, however, that these dimensions may vary according
to the size of the boot or shoe being manufactured and to other conditions.
In making up a boot with a sole made as herein before described the sole is
tacked to the last with that side having the layer d upon it in contact with the
last, the said layer d being turned back along the line g, Figure 4. The upper h
(which has the canvas or other lining ) is now placed upon the last and the edge
of the lining around the front and waist of the boot is lasted over the feather e,
that is to say, into the slit f where it is secured by india-rubber solution or other
cement.
The leather portion of the upper corresponding with the lasted portion of the
lining is now turned outward and cemented on to the sole as clearly shewn at j
in Figure 1, and then the sole is stitched round (as indicated at k in Figure 1)
in order to give the appearance of a welt, the stitches on the outer surface of the
sole lying in a channel Z, Figures 1 and 3.
The heel portion of the upper (that is to say, both the lining and the leather)
is next lasted in between the layers b and c and then the heel m is applied.
The boot or shoe being removed from the last the layer d is turned back and
cemented over the layer c to form the seat lining which covers the points of the
nails or tacks which secure the upper, the layer c and the heel m together.
Having now particularly describe and ascertained the nature of our said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what
we claim is:-
1. In a boot or shoe, a sole having a feather formed around the waist and front
portion by splitting the sole, and the heel split to form three layers, the split
between the feather and the sole proper serving to receive the lining of the boot

page_text: or shoe whilst the layer of leather d on the inner side of the sole forms the lining
over the heel seat the slit between the other two layers receiving the edge of the
upper, substantially as described.
2. The manufacture of boots and shoes substantially in the manner hereinb fore
described and illustrated in the accompanying drawings.
Dated the 14th day of August 1897.
G. F. REDFERN & Co.,
4, South Street, Finsbury, London, Agents for the Applicants.