IMPROVE- MENTS IN LOOMS FOR WEAVING CORSETS AND OTHER ARTICLES HAVING GORES OE GUSSETS
Year: 1871

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Julius Kuttner, of the City and State of New
York, United States of America, for the Invention of "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN LOOMS FOR WEAVING CORSETS AND OTHER ARTICLES HAVING GORES
OE GUSSETS."
Sealed the 24th October 1871, and dated the 18th July 1871.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Julius Kuttner at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
18th July 1871.
I, JULIUS KUTTNER, of the City and State of New York, United
States of America, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention
for "IMPROVEMENTS IN LOOMS FOR WEAVING CORSETS AND OTHER ARTICLES HAVING
GORES OR GUSSETS," to be as follows:-
Looms have before been made for weaving fabrics with gores or
gussets, the jacquard operating the warps in the proper manner, and
the warps being on separate spools or beams. These known parts do
not require further description.

page_text: My Invention is intended to obviate two difficulties in weaving in
looms of this character.
The first part of my Invention relates to means for taking up the
irregular slack of the fabric as woven so as to keep the goods straight
at the point of weaving.
And the second part of my Invention relates to the shuttle, which is
made so as to wind up slack weft thread and prevent the same being
delivered from the bobbin, except where the weaving is being performed,
thereby the gores or gussets can be woven without the weft thread being
left in loose loops.
The "take up" device consists in a row of pins occupying a position
transversely of the loom near the line of weaving. The fabric passes
beneath a bar and up over these pins.
The fabric is drawn along as the lay beats up the filling, so as to hook
the fabric automatically upon these pins, and thereby keep the fabric
stretched and the slack taken up. To draw the fabric along a yielding
and moving surface is employed extending across the fabric, such
surface being made by the use of bristles or stiff plush, felt, rubber, or
other equivalent material, hence at the places where the fabric is being
woven the take up will operate, but it will slip upon the fabric and not
move it along at the portion where the weaving is not taking place.
The yielding moving surface may be upon two rollers, between which
the woven fabric is drawn, said rollers being revolved either continuously
or by a ratchet and pawl; or one such roller may be used against one
surface of the fabric as it lays over the bar that carries the row of pins;
or the surface may be reciprocated to draw the fabric along as the
weaving progresses. The shuttle is made with a bobbin or spool
mounted upon a spindle that is held from turning by friction, and a
spring helix is interposed between this spindle and the spool or bobbin,
so that the weft thread can be pulled off, and when the pull is released
the spool will be revolved by the spring and wind the weft thread upon
the same again. This device allows for the weft thread being wound up
and drawn off the bobbin as the shuttle is moved, hence there will be
no slack; but in order to allow the weft to be laid in the fabric without
undue strain the friction applied to hold the spindle of the bobbin is
relieved while the shuttle is passing through the shed of warps. This is
accomplished by relieving arms on the shuttle that run under the shed,
and are held down by the warps while the shuttle is passing beneath

page_text: them, and these arms move back the plate that applies friction to the
spindle, so that the same is relieved, and the bobbin and spindle turn
together as the thread is drawn off. The thread passes through an eye
that slides in a bow, and is provided with springs to yield and prevent
concussion on the thread.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Julius Kuttner in the Great Seal Patent Office
on the 17th January 1872.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JULIUS
KUTTNER, of the City and State of New York, United States of America,
send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Eighteenth day of July, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-one, in the thirty-
fifth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give
and grant unto me, the said Julius Kuttner, Her special licence that
I, the said Julius Kuttner, my executors, administrators, and assigns,
or such others as I, the said Julius Kuttner, my executors, adminis-
trators, and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others,
from time to time and at all times thereafter during the term therein
expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend,
within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel
Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN LOOMS FOR
WEAVING CORSETS AND OTHER ARTICLES HAVING GORES OR GUSSETS," upon the
condition (amongst others) that I, the said Julius Kuttner, my executors
or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one
of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the
nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be
performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Scal Patent
Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of
the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Julius Kuttner, do hereby declare
the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to
be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the

page_text: .
following statement, reference being made to the Drawing hereunto
annexed, and to the letters and figures marked thereon (that is to
say) :-
'
Looms have before been made for weaving fabrics with gores or
gussets, the jacquard operating the warps in the proper manner, and the
warps being on separate spools or bobbins. These known parts do not
require further description.
My Invention is made for obviating two difficulties in looms of this
character.
The first part of my Invention relating to means for taking up the
irregular slack of the fabric as woven, so as to keep the goods straight
at the point of weaving.
And the second part of my Invention relating to the shuttle, which is
made so as to wind up the slack weft thread and prevent the same being
delivered from the bobbin, except where the weaving is being performed;
thereby the gores or gussets can be woven without the weft thread being
left in loose loops.
In the take up device a row of pins occupies a position transversely
of the loom near the line of weaving. The fabric passes beneath a bar
and up over these pins.
In my improvement the fabric is drawn along as the lay beats up the
filling so as to hook the fabric automatically upon these pins, and
thereby keep the fabric stretched and the slack taken up. To draw
the fabric along a yielding and moving surface is employed, extending
across the fabric, such surface being made by the use of bristles or stiff
plush, felt, rubber, or other equivalent material. Hence at the places
where the fabric is being woven the take-up will operate, but it will
slip upon the fabric and not move it along at the portion where the
weaving is not taking place. The yielding moving surface may be upon
two rollers, between which the woven fabric is drawn, said rollers being
revolved either continuously or by a ratchet and pawl; or one such
roller may be used against one surface of the fabric as it lays over a
flat surface; or the bar that carries the rows of pins or the surface may
be in the form of a clamp reciprocated to draw the fabric along as the
weaving progresses.
In the Drawing, Fig. 1 is a cross section illustrating the take-up
apparatus, and Fig. 2 show's portions of the same.

page_text: The fabric as woven passes beneath the bar 6 and up over the row of
pins e on the beam c. The yielding moving surface is here shown as a
pair of rollers d', d', with projecting brushes or bristles that give the
necessary friction for taking up the slack of the fabric and drawing it
automatically upon the pins c. These rollers are moved progressively,
and they do not grip the fabric firmly, but yield and slip upon those
portions that are not being extended by weaving, hence the fabric with
gores or gussets is easily taken up. As before mentioned plush or
other yielding surface may be used for these rollers, or only one such
surface may be used, or a reciprocating clamp employed having such
yielding surface.
Figs. 3 and 4 show the improvement in the shuttle by plan and cross
section at the line x, x. The shuttle here represented is adapted to
the loom patented in Great Britain by James Lyall, March 26, 1868,
No. 1042; but this Invention is not limited to this loom, but may be
employed in any jacquard or other loom. The shuttle is made with a
bobbin or spool de mounted upon a spindle f that is held from turning
by friction applied at the disk 5 by the plate 1, and a spring helix is
interposed between this spindle and the spool or bobbin, one end being
attached to the sleeve g on the shaft f, and the other to the loose friction
plug 3 that enters the hole in the bobbin and turns with it, so that
the weft thread can be pulled off without revolving the spindle f, and
when the pull is released the spool d² will be revolved by the spring h
and wind the weft thread upon the bobbin again. These devices allow
for the weft thread being wound upon or drawn off the bobbin or
spool d² as the shuttle is moved, hence there will be no slack, but in
order to allow the weft to be laid in the fabric without undue strain
the friction applied at 5 to prevent the spindle f of the bobbin d² from
turning is relieved while the shuttle is passing through the shed of
warps. This is accomplished by relieving arms on the shuttle a
that run under the shed, and are depressed and held down by the
warps while the shuttle is passing beneath said warps, and these
arms pass down to the plate 7 that applies friction to the disk 5 of the
spindle f, so that the same is relieved, and the bobbin & and spindle f
turn together as the thread is drawn off. The thread passes through an
eyes that slides in a bow t, and is provided with springs u, u, to yield
and prevent concussion on the thread. The bobbin or spool can be
drawn off the friction plug 3 when the spindle is turned out from or
taken out of the shuttle and a full one substituted.

page_text: What I claim as my Invention and desire to secure by Letters
Patent is,
First. The take-up motion herein specified, consisting of the yielding
moving surface combined with the holding pins for automatically taking
up the gored fabric as woven, substantially as specified.
Second. The spool or bobbin connected by a spring to its spindle, and
combined with a frictional mechanism relieved when the shuttle is
passing through the shed of warps, substantially as and for the purposes
set forth.
In witness whercof, I, the said Julius Kuttner, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, this Sixth day of December, A.D. One
thousand eight hundred and seventy-one.
JULIUS KUTTNER. (L.S.)
Witnesscs,
CHA. H. SMITH, 121, Nassau St., N.Y.
HAROLD SERRELL,
"
"
"