CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES
Year: 1862

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Charles Callebaut, of 2, Rue Saint Appoline, Paris,
France, and of 4, South Street, Finsbury, London, for the Invention of
"CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES."
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Charles Callebaut at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
28th June 1862.
I, CHARLES CALLEBAUT, of 2, Rue Saint Appoline, Paris, France, and
of 4, South Street, Finsbury, London, do hereby declare the nature of my
Invention of "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES," to be as follows,
that is to say:-
My improvements in sewing machines consist in the suppressing of the
preliminary basting hitherto employed when pipings are required for military
and other garments, and in employing guides having permanent and moveable
parts for maintaining the fabric intended to have piping. The setting up of
piping requires much care, and a great loss of time. The cloth band which
is to form the piping must be at first folded and basted on one part of the
cloth, the second part between which the piping is to be sewn is then placed,
and finally these three parts are united by a whip stitch. These preparations
are required to sew either by the hand or with the machines; but in the last

page_text: case, the small width of piping forms a thickness very detrimental to the good
working and regularity of the machine.
To carry out my Invention. I make use of a metal guide, fixed by a support
to the standard on which slides the needle holder. This guide is provided
with an opening by which the cloth band forming the piping is maintained
during its passage for being sewn. A metallic prolongation is placed tangently
to one of the internal sides of the opening, and the two folded parts forming
the piping bear against the said prolongation. The edges of the two parts of
the cloth to be sewn with the piping are placed one above, & the other
underneath the piping, so that the edges of these four parts of the cloth are
in the same plane.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Charles Callebaut in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
22nd December 1862.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, CHARLES
CALLEBAUT, of 2, Rue Sainte Appoline, Paris, France, and of 4, South Street,
Finsbury, London, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-eighth day of June, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and sixty-two, in the twenty-sixth year of Her reign,
did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the
said Charles Callebaut, Her special licence that I, the said Charles
Callebaut, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such other's as I, the
said Charles Callebaut, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should
at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times
thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make,
use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and
Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention of "CERTAIN
IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES," upon the condition (amongst others)
that I, the said Charles Callebaut, my executors or administrators, by an instru-
ment in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals,
should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention,
and in. what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same
to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months
next and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.

page_text: NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Charles Callebaut, do hereby declare
the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement thereof, reference being had to the Drawing hereto annexed, and
to the letters and figures marked thereon, that is to say:-
My Invention consists in the construction and application to sewing machines
of a guide for forming pipings, and lace edging. It is known that pipings are
composed of a thickness of folded stuff a, Fig. 1, above which is sewn a
thickness of stuff b, and beneath a thickness of stuff c. These two thicknesses
b and c, are afterwards reversed as shewn in Fig. 2, to form the piping. To
obtain this result I employ either of the arrangements of guide shewn in Figs.
3 and 4, that shewn in Fig. 3 being composed of an elbowed piece d, secured
by a screw d', to the front plate of the machine. This piece d has at its
lower part a groove e, the breadth of which is in proportion to the work
wished to be obtained, the band of folded stuff a, which is to form the piping
is placed in this groove. The other two pieces c and 6 are then placed one
above and the other beneath it, the needle f, and consequently the sewing
passes through, and unites these different pieces, and it is only necessary to
reverse the two thicknesses b and c, to obtain the result shewn in Fig. 2.
This guide is specially arranged for the employment of a driving wheel, but
it is easy to understand that all other methods of propelling the stuff can be
employed.
Figure 4 shews another arrangement of guide: instead of being placed on
the front plate this guide is fixed on the table of the machine, it will be seen
that it is also made with a groove el, forming part with the plate g, formed
with a slot h, long enough to contain two screws h', which serve to keep the
guide firmly fixed on the table; a projection i extends a little beyond the
lower part of the groove so as to shift the crossing or advance of the stuff c
on the piping, and this thin projection i, has at its upper part a small plate
j, also serving to regulate the crossing or advance of the stuff on the piping
as well as to keep the upper thickness b in its place, as in the guide Fig. 3,
the folded band a, which is to form the piping, is placed in the groove e', the
two thicknesses b and c, are also placed one above and one below the needle f,
and consequently the sewing equally unites these different thicknesses, and
produces the result represented in Fig. 2. This guide is specially arranged
to move with a driver placed at the upper part, but it must be understood
that by making the plate 9 of a certain thickness a driving wheel or other
arrangement can also be employed underneath.

page_text: Having now described the nature of my Invention, and the manner of
carrying the same into effect, what I claim as my Invention, and intended to
be protected by the said Letters Patent is, the construction and application
to sewing machines of a guide, and the modification thereof for forming
pipings as herein-before described, and represented in Figs. 3 and 4, of the
annexed Drawing.
In witness whereof, I, the said Charles Callebaut, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Fifteenth day of December, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-two.
CH. CALLEBAUT, AINE. (L.S.)