Improvements in the Manufacture of Beaverteens, Velveteens,, Moleskins, and similar Cloths.
Year: 1896

page_text: Date of Application, 17th July, 1895
Complete Specification Left, 16th Jan., 1897-Accepted, 20th Feb., 1897
Improvements in the Manufacture of Beaverteens, Velveteens,,
Moleskins, and similar Cloths.
We, W. AND J. ALMOND LIMITED of Harrowby Mills Farnworth near Bolton
in the County of Lancaster aud NATHANIEL WAKEFORD of Harrowby Street
Farnworth aforesaid, Director do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be
as follows:-
This improvement or invention relates more particularly to the manufacture of
beaverteens moleskins velveteens and such like fabrics of cotton, wool, linen, or
flax, and my aim has been to form as good and full a cloth as possible and capable
of receiving a maximum of finish, and to form a good rib on the face as well as
to have as much weft on the back as possible suitable for raising purposes. To
effect this purpose I find that by using no more warp than necessary but as much
weft as possible and instead of using a large number of ends in the warp which
necessitates the using of fiue reeds or having several ends in a dent of the reed,
I use a moderately coarse reed and extend the ends thereby, which allows more
space for the weft, and also gives the weavers less trouble and enables them to
produce better cloth. The cloth made is much more pliable and takes a finish
very readily.
In producing this cloth I prefer to use six shafts and threads of warp and nine
threads or picks to the pattern.
The weft forming the face floats over four and under two ends, twice in
succession, and then one pick of weft floats over two and under four ends, forming
the back.
On account of having fewer ends in the warp I am enabled to produce a much
more level and improved selvage than in other makes of similar cloth. Also the
weft is not so liable to slip from the warp in the process of finishing.
I am also capable of weaving either light or heavy cloths with this mode by
means of changing the counts of reed or yarn weft.
Dated this 15th day of July 1896.

page_text: Farnworth, aforesaid, Director, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and
in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement:-
This improvement or invention relates more particularly to the manufacture of
heaverteens, moleskins, velveteens, and such like fabrics of cotton, wool, linen, or
flax and our aim has been to form as good and full a cloth as possible and capable
of receiving a maximum of finish, and to form a good rib on the face as well as
to have as much weft on the back as possible suitable for raising purposes.
To effect this purpose we use no more warp than necessary but as much weft as
possible, and instead of using a large number of ends in the warp, (which necessi-
tates the using of fine reeds or of having several ends in a dent of the reed),
we use a moderately coarse reed and extend the ends thereby, which allows more
space for the weft, and also gives the weavers less trouble, and enables them to
produce better cloth. The cloth made in this manner is much more pliable and
takes a finish very readily.
The invention will be fully described with reference to the annexed drawings.
Fig. 1. Sectional diagram of cloth showing the weft threads which predominate
on the face of the cloth.
Fig. 2. Sectional diagram of cloth showing the weft threads which predominate
on the back of the cloth (every third pick).
Fig. 3. Draught pattern corresponding with cloth shown in Figs. 1 and 2.
Fig. 4. Modified draught pattern giving similar results.
Fig. 5. Sectional diagram of a modification of the cloth so far as every third
pick for binding purposes. is concerned showing the weft thread which predominates
on the back of the cloth.
Fig. 6. Draught pattern of the cloth for the modification shown in Fig. 5.
Fig. 7. Sectional diagram of another modification of the cloth so far as every
third pick is concerned for binding purposes showing such weft threads pre-
dominating on the face.
Fig. 8. Draught pattern of cloth for the modification shown in Fig. 7.
Referring to Figs. 1 to 4. We prefer the pattern shown in Figs. 1, 2 and 3
woven with six shafts or having six threads of warp and nine threads or picks of
weft to the pattern. The weft a forming the face floats over four warp ends b
and under two warp ends twice in succession (as in Fig. 1) and then every third
pick d of weft floats over two warp ends c and under four warp ends forming or
predominating on the back (as in Fig. 2).
In Figs. 5 and 6 we illustrate the method of constructing the cloth when it is
required to be bound or tied together better or more securely than in the previous
figs. while at the same time obtaining practically similar results. This method is
applicable for light cloths or cloth in which it is not desirable to put a large
number of picks and it secures a greater firmness of cloth. In this mode of
weaving the cloth every third pick d is floated under two warp ends c and over
one warp thread alternately across the width of the cloth. This secures a good
proportion of the weft on the back of the cloth besides fastening it.
In Figs. 7 and 8 we.illustrate another method of constructing the cloth when it
is more desirable to improve the face of the cloth but still retain the firmness
described with reference to Figs. 5 and 6 by floating every third pick of weft d
over two warp threads c and under one warp end alternately across the width of
the cloth.
In the different patterns illustrated we only use six warp threads to the pattern
and not more than six or nine picks of weft. The weft forming the face in each
being floated over four and under two warp threads as shown in Fig. 1.
On account of having fewer ends in the warp we are enabled to produce a much
more level and improved selvage than in other makes of similar cloth. When
the modified methods shown in Figs. 5 to 8. are adopted the weft is not liable to
slip in the process of finishing.

page_text: Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what we
claim is :-
The manufacture of beaverteens velveteens moleskins and similar cloths
substantially as and for the purposes described.
Dated this 15th day of January 1897.
WM. P. THOMPSON & Co.,
Manchester, Liverpool, and London, Patent Agents.