A New or Improved Stiffener or Stiffening Cord applicable for Garments.
Year: 1895

page_text: Date of Application, 3rd Dec., 1895-Accepted, 25th Jan., 1396
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
A New or Improved Stiffener or Stiffening Cord applicable for
Garments.
A communication by EDWARD KIRK WARREN, of Three Oaks, in the
County of Berrien and State of Michigan, United States of America,
Manufacturer.
I, WILLIAM PHILLIPS THOMPSON, F.C.S., M.I.M.E. of The Agency for
Foreign Patent Solicitors, 6 Lord Street, Liverpool and 6 Bank Street,
Manchester both in the County of Lancaster, 118 New Street, Birmingham in
the County of Warwick and 31 High Holborn in the County of Middlesex, Civil
Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement :--
The invention relates to improvements in stiffening cords for garments and
relates particularly to such cords which are constructed from a proper combination
and use of cords of the fibre of quills of feathers called "featherbone."
The objects of this invention are to provide a light stiffening cord possessing great
elasticity and strength for use in the dressmaking and millinery art and wherever
such cord may be found to be desirable. As heretofore constructed, a cord of
featherbone alone does not possess sufficient lateral strength to stand the strain in
certain positions and, while it is very clastic, it is too stiff and unyielding to serve
perfectly the purpose for which it is intended.
The desirable qualities in such a cord, of great lateral strength, lightness and
elasticity are secured by the devices shown in the accompanying drawing, in
which
Figure 1 is a view of a piece of a cord embodying the features of the invention,
drawn full size, as is now being manufactured. Figure 2 is a much enlarged view
showing the details of construction, the parts being shown large so that every detail
shall appear.
In the drawing, similar letters of reference refer to similar parts throughout the
several views.
Referring to the lettered parts of the drawing, A., represents a strong soft cord
of any suitable material possessing considerable size. B B are very light cords
constructed of featherbone which is constructed of a fibre of quills similar
to the manner in which featherbone is constructed. The fibre of quills, in
this case, is wound by the single strands C. The strand of featherbone is very
small, as can be readily understood from examining Figure 1. To have this strand
possess sufficient continuity to be used and worked into a cord in this way, a
thread B', extends the entire length of the same to give it sufficient body. A cord
constructed in this way is placed to each side of the main soft cord A, and is
wound thereon by double strands D D, as will be readily understood from an
inspection of Figure 2. When a strand of feather bone is thus wound to each side
of the cord A, a row of stitches E, is sewn through the cord A, close to one of the
strands to compel the strands of featherbone to keep their appropriate positions to
each side of the central cord to draw the threads D D, tight about the same to give
the cord firmness.
A cord constructed in this way can be bent at very sharp angles, offering very
little resistance to the bending, and, as soon as it is released, it will return to its

page_text: normal position and will not have been injured in the least. This is due to the
fact that the larger soft cord between does not permit the shorter strands to receive
a sharp bend, but they are only curved. Even when the cord is bent at a sharp
angle, it allows the featherbone strand to curve which does not injure the fibre of
the quill. A cord constructed in this particular manner is therefore of great
value in finishing the edges of garments, as the edges of revers, or the edges
of skirts, or any other garment or part of garment which it is desirable to keep
flat and smooth, and which it is also desirable to preserve in a pliable condition.
It stands the bending without injuring its elastic qualities in the least and when
pressure is removed springs out flat again. The cord A, even when of reduced size,
when introduced into a long strip of featherbone in the manner indicated serves the
very useful purpose of giving the same great lateral strength which has heretofore in
some styles of featherbone been wanting.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, as communicated to me by
my foreign correspondent, I declare that what I claim is :-
1. As an article of manufacture, a stiffening cord composed of a main central
cord A, of soft flexible material; small cords B B, to each side of the same composed
of the fibre of quills suitably wound together, the central cord and stiffening cords
to each side being secured together by suitable strands wound upon the same; and
a row of longitudinal stitches through the cord, substantially as described for the
purpose specified.
2. As an article of manufacture, a stiffening cord consisting of a main central cord
of soft flexible material and a cord or cords composed of the fibre of quills of feathers
all suitably wound together to give the entire cord flexibility, elasticity and lateral
strength, as specified."
3. As an article of manufacture, a stiffening cord consisting of a main body cord
of soft, flexible material; and cords composed of stiff elastic fibre to each side
thereof all suitably wound together to produce a composite cord which is pliable,
elastic, and possessed of great lateral strength.
4. As an article of manufacture, the composite cord consisting of a central cord
of soft, flexible material; and lateral cords composed of stiff elastic fibre, all
suitably united together by a thread wound upon the same to provide a light elastic
cord of great lateral strength as specified.
Dated this 2nd day of December 1895,
WM. P. THOMPSON & Co.,
Agents.