Improvements in the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes.
Year: 1886

page_text: Date of Application, 23rd Aug., 1886.
Complete Left, 5th May, 1887.
Complete Accepted, 3rd, June, 1887.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes.
MICHEL LION LION, 32 Cheswell Street, London, Boot Manufacturor, and
FREDERICK CUTLAN, Castle Hill, Wellingborough, Engineer, do horeby declare the
nature of our invention for the MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES to be as
follows:-
:-
Lasting the Upper to the Inner Sole, and Attaching the Outter Solo by means of
Rivets Nails or Screws or Pegs driven from the inside of the Boot or Shoe-
First we prepare a Nail, Rivot or Screw or Pegs a little less in length than the
whole substance into which the Nail, Rivet or Screw or Pegs is intended to be
driven, and may be made of Brass, Iron or Wood or other suitablo material and in
somo instances would be Magnetised and in some cases will have Barbed or screwed
points as may be found most suitable-Previous fixing the Inner Sole on the Last
we propose to drive the Nails Rivets or Screws or Pegs through the Inner Sole
or secure the Heads of the Nails, Rivets or Screws or Pegs against the Inner
Sole about a quarter of an inch from the Edge all round this being done the
Inner Sole is next fixed upon the Iron Last the Heads of the Nails, Rivets or Screws
or Pegs being against or towards the Last The Upper of the Boot or Shoe is next
put over the Last and the sides of the upper drawn tight upon the Last by means of
a Tool and forced upon the points of the Nails, Rivets or Screws or Pegs which
have been driven through or fixed against the Inner Sole and stand above the
Inner Sole, the Upper being pressed down upon the Inner Sole, the Nails, Rivets or
Screws or Pegs project sufficiently through the Upper to receive the Outter Sole,
these serve the purpose for securing the Upper when Lasted and the double use of
securing the Outter Sole to the Upper, thus dispensing with the Lasting Machine and
Lasting Tacks or Bracing-over-We propose next to attach the Heel to the Solo and
finish the Edge of the Sole & Heel-We then place the Sole & Heel in its position on
the points of the Nails, Rivets or Screws or Pegs and is forced down to its place by a
Press or Hammer-The Boot or Shoe is now complete and may be removed from
the Last.
Dad : L
A 1000
MICHEL LION LION..
FREDERICK CUTLAN.

page_text: WAK
We, MICHEL LION LION of 32 Chiswell Street London Boot Manufacturer and
FREDERICK CUTLAN of Castle Hill Wellingborough Engineer do hereby declare the
nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :—
This invention has for its object improvements in the manufacture of boots and
shoes whereby they can be made more readily and economically than heretofore of a
better shape and finish and also more durable and comfortable in wear.
For this purpose according to our present improvements we manufacture boots and
shoes by lasting the upper of the boot or shoe to the inner sole and attaching the
outer sole by means of nails rivets or screws or other suitable fasteners in the following
manner.
First we prepare the fastoner (nail rivet or screw) a little less in length than the
total thickness of materials or substances into which it is to be driven the fastener
may be made of any suitable material is advantageously flanged and terminating with
a cone at its point or screwed or both as may be found most suitable and also for
some purposes may be galvanised. We find it advantageous however to use a fastener
which we have specially designed for the purpose and which is shown in the drawings
hereunto annexed.
These fasteners thus prepared are now driven through the inner sole with their
heads towards the face side thereof about a quarter of an inch from the edge all
round or partly round, the lining or sock is then solutioned or affixed in any con-
venient manner to the face side of the inner sole over the heads of the fasteners.
This being done the inner sole thus preparod with fasteners and sock is next fixed
upon an ordinary iron last the heads of the nails being against or towards the
last and the points standing up, the upper is now put over the last and drawn
tight upon said last by means of a suitable tool and the edges of the upper are
forced down upon the points of the fasteners until the points pierce through the
upper and the upper lays close against the inner sole and the points still project
sufficiently through the upper to receive the outer sole. The upper is thus mado
to take the shape of the last and is held in this position at all points by the said
fasteners only, until the solo is fixed down thereon and the boot or shoe completed
thus dispensing with the lasting machino lasting tacks or bracing over. The outer
sole and hool are prepared and finished complete and the outer sole with heel
attached is then placed in position on the points of the fasteners and forced down by a
press or hammer tight against the upper. All the parts are thus securely fastened
together and the boot or shoe is now complete and may be removed from the last.
By this means the fasteners may be so proportioned as not to pierce completely through
the outer sole.
For driving the fasteners through the inner sole we find it advantageous to employ
a nail driving machine of the character described and shewn in the specification and
drawings for which John Ellis Cutlan received Letters Patent in Great Britain
No. 7893 dated 19th May 1884 but we do not limit ourselves to the use of this or any
machine for this purpose.

page_text: Neither do we limit ourselves to the precise details of manufacture herein before
described as for instance the outer sole can be attached without the heel and the boot
or shoe completed save the heel which can be attached and finished subsequently in the
ordinary way.
And in order that our invention may be the more easily understood and readily
carried into practice we will proceed to describe the same with reference to the
accompanying drawings.
DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS.
Figure 1 is a plan of the underside of the inner sole A with points of fasteners driven
through and projecting upwards.
Figure 2 shows the fasteners B with the lining or sock C solutioned on to the inner
sole which is inverted on the last D.
Figure 3 is same view as Figure 1 with the edges of the upper E drawn over the
points of the fasteners B which pierce through.
Figure 4 shows the upper E lasted to the inner sole and the points of the fasteners B
projecting sufficiently to receive the outer sole F and heel F¹ attached thereto finished
and complete.
Figure 5 shows the outer sole F and heel F¹, closed down on the points of the
fasteners B which thus hold the outer sole securely without coming through. The
outer sole F and heel F are closed down by hammering or pressing and the boot or
shoe is now complete and may be removed from the last D.
Figure 6 shows the improved fastener B on a large scale in elevation and plan.
The sock or lining C may be dispensed with if desired as we find in practice that
the face side of the inner sole of the finished boot or shoe is so smooth and even as
scarcely to require such lining.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed we would remark that we are aware.
that barbod pointed nails and staples have previously been used in the manufacture of
boots and shoes but in a very different manner and the attempts hitherto to use such
fasteners have been impracticable or these previous methods could not be adopted for
the kind of work we describe that therefore we make no claim separately to the barbed
fastener but what we do claim as novel and as our invention is :-
1. The improved construction of fasteners shown in detail in Figure 6 for securing
together the inner sole upper and outer sole in the manufacture of boots and shoes
substantially in the manner lierein before described and represented in the
accompanying drawings.
2. In the improved manufacture of boots and shoes driving the fasteners whether
of the improved form or otherwise through the inner sole before the inner sole is
fixed upon the last substantially in the manner and for the purpose hereinbefore
set forth.
3. In the manufacture of boots and shoes the improved method of attaching the
outer solo and heel to the upper and inner sole in one operation substantially in the
manner hereinbefore set forth.
4. Tho improved manufacture of boots and shoes substantially in the manner and
for the purpose herein before described and set forth and represented in the
accompanying drawings.