IMPROVE- MENTS IN IRONING, PRESSING, FINISHING, AND DAMPING MACHINERY
Year: 1867

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to James Moore Clements, of Birmingham, in the
County of Warwick, Tailor and Draper, for the Invention of "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN IRONING, PRESSING, FINISHING, AND DAMPING MACHINERY."
Scaled the 17th September 1867, and dated the 19th March 1867.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said James Moore Clements at
the office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
19th March 1867.
I, JAMES MOORE CLEMENTS, of Birmingham, in the County of Warwick,
Tailor and Draper, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for
"IMPROVEMENTS IN IRONING, PRESSING, FINISHING, AND DAMPING MACHINERY,"
to be as follows (that is to say):-
Firstly, my Invention consists of a machine which is capable of being easily
adapted to suit a variety of trades for the purposes of ironing or pressing
articles of wearing apparel, and other materials or articles requiring to be either
hot pressed, or simply submitted to a great pressure without heat.
For the use of tailors the machine consists of two or more hollow cylindrical
rolls mounted horizontally within a framework, casting, or standards; and these
rolls may revolve either in the same or contrary directions, and may be capable
of moving to and fro or backwards and forwards by means of levers or screws

page_text: at equal or unequal speeds, motion being imparted to them by treadle, hand
or steam power in connection with suitable pinions, cog wheels, or wormed,
shafts, as the case may require. The rolls are heated either by means of
gas jets within the hollow spaces, which gas jets would be independent of the
rolls, or by charcoal, steam, or hot water, in which case the hollow of
the cylinders would be reduced and the annular bulk increased to form
the reservoir for the charcoal, steam, or hot water, a funnel being attached
at the rear of the machine to create draught and to convey away the surplus
gas or steam. A board or table is fixed in such position that a portion of the
lower pressing cylinder or roll may pass through it, which table receives the
work to be passed through the rolls. The upper roll is capable of being
lowered upon or raised from the work by means of a handle, an adjusting
screw and spring fitted in that portion of the casting above the upper roll
also enabling the operator to adjust the rolls to any degree of pressure
required.
In adapting the machine for the use of hatters I employ instead of the
lower roll a block or shape to receive a hat, which block is capable of being
drawn outwards or retired to suit the varying shapes; this block may revolve
in the opposite direction to the upper roll, and likewise may be so placed
against the end of the upper cylinder or roll that the two axes shall be in the
same plane, but revolving in opposite directions.
My improved pressing machine may also be adapted for use by shirt
makers, stay makers, calenderers, laundresses, bookbinders, photographers,
and other trades; and when requisite a band of felt or other material having
a soft surface may pass over the lower roll and over two or more pullies
suitably arranged beneath the lower roll, thus forming a pad upon which the
material lies whilst being pressed; and when it is desired to smooth the nap
or pile of the fabric or article under operation I employ a brushing surface,
which may be either attached to or connected parallel with the cylinder or
cylinders. For photographs, publications, or objects of similar nature and
large size rolls are employed having a space between them sufficiently large
to admit of the passage of pad blocks together with the article to be
pressed.
Secondly, I form a pressing table consisting of a flat top of oval or other
suitable form, under which is a receiver for steam, fire, or hot water; upon
this table the article to be operated upon is laid, and pressure may be applied
by a corresponding upper pressing plate either of metal or wood, covered if
necessary with felt or other soft material; this upper plate is so suspended
above the table that it may be capable of receiving motion in direction
every

page_text: by levers or screws. In place of these pressing tables of a flat surface others
of any desired contour may be used, the one being a counterpart of the other
and thus acting as dies between which the material may be shaped. When
employed for damping a linen or cotton band must be substituted for the
felt above named; this band is to be wetted, and the cloth or other material
to be damped must be brought into contact with it. For the purpose of
ensuring combustion and increasing the heat a fan or other blower may be
attached to either of these machines.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said James Moore Clements in the Great Seal Patent Office on
the 19th September 1867.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JAMES
MOORE CLEMENTS, of Birmingham, in the County of Warwick, Tailor and
Draper, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Nineteenth day of March, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty seven, in the thirtieth year of Her reign,
did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the said
James Moore Clements, Her special license that I, the said James Moore
Clements, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the
said James Moore Clements, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should
at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times
thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make,
nse, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and
Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN IRONING. PRESSING, FINISHING, AND DAMPING MACHINERY," upon the
condition (among others) that 1, the said James Moore Clements, by
an instrument in writing under my hand and scal, should particularly describe
and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the
same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal
Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the date
of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said James Moore Clements, do hereby declare
the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following

page_text: statement, reference being had to the Drawings hereunto annexed, and to the
letters and figures marked thereon (that is to say):-
Firstly, my Invention consists of a machine which is capable of being easily
adapted to suit a variety of trades for the purposes of ironing or pressing
articles of wearing apparel and other materials or articles requiring to be
either hot pressed or simply submitted to a great pressure without heat.
For the use of tailors the machine consists of two or more hollow cylindrical
rolls mounted horizontally within a framework, casting, or standards, and
these rolls may revolve either in the same or contrary directions, and may be
capable of moving to and fro or backwards and forwards by means of levers or
screws at equal or unequal speeds, motion being imparted to them by treadle,
hand, or steam power in connection with suitable pinions, cog wheels, or
wormed shafts, as the case may require. The rolls are heated either by means
of gas jets within the hollow spaces, which gas jets would be independent of
the rolls, or by charcoal, steam, or hot water, in which case the hollow of the
cylinders would be reduced and theaunular bulk increased to form the reservoir
for the charcoal, steam, or hot water, a funuel being attached at the rear of
the machine to create draught and to convey away the surplus gas or steam.
A board or table is fixed in such position that a portion of the lower pressing
cylinder or roll may pass through it, which table receives the work to be
passed through the rolls. The upper roll is capable of being lowered upon or
raised from the work by means of a handle, an adjusting screw and spring
fitted in that portion of the casting above the upper roll also enabling the
operator to adjust the rolls to any degree of pressure required.
In adapting the machine for the use of hatters I employ instead of the
lower roll a block or shape to receive a hat, which block is capable of being
drawn outwards or retired to suit the varying shape; this block may revolve
in the opposite direction to the upper roll, and likewise may be so placed against
the end of the upper cylinder or roll that the two axes shall be in the same
plane, but revolving in opposite directions.
My improved pressing machine may also be adapted for use by shirt makers,
stay makers, calenderers, laundresses, bookbinders, photographers, and other
trades; and when requisite a band of felt or other material having a soft
surface may pass over the lower roll and over two or more pullies suitably
arranged beneath the lower roll, thus forming a pad upon which the material
lies whilst being pressed; and when it is desired to smooth the nap or pile of
the fabric or article under operation I employ a brushing surface, which may
be either attached to or connected parallel with the cylinder or cylinders. For
photographs, publications, or objects of similar nature and large size rolls are

page_text: employed having a space between them sufficiently large to admit of the
passage of pad blocks together with the article to be pressed.
Secondly, I form a pressing table consisting of a flat top of oval or other
suitable form, under which is a reservoir for steam, fire, or hot water; upon
this table the article to be operated upon is laid, and pressure may be applied
by a corresponding upper pressing plate either of metal or wood, covered if
necessary with felt or other soft material; this upper plate is so suspended
above the table that it may be capable of receiving motion in every direction
by levers or screws. In place of these pressing tables of a flat surface others
of any desired contour may be used, the one being a counterpart of the other,
and thus acting as dies between which the material may be shaped. When
employed for damping a linen or cotton band must be substituted for the felt
above named; this band is to be wetted, and the cloth or other material to be
damped must be brought into contact with it. For the purpose of ensuring
combustion and increasing the heat a fan or other blower may be attached to
either of these machines.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.
I will now proceed to describe my Invention more fully in detail, and by
the aid of the Drawings hereunto annexed, reference being had to the letters
and figures marked thereon (that is to say):-
Figures 1 and 2 represent in front and side elevations one of my improved
pressing or ironing machines shewn in the present instance as arranged for the
use of tailors, but which is capable by slight modifications to be herein-after
alluded to of being employed to suit a variety of trades.
(a) is the support or stand having a table top or bed plate (a¹), upon which
is mounted a casting or framework (b), which carries the working parts of the
machine; (b) is an arm of the casting (b) formed so as to constitute the
table upon which the work is pressed, and this table is recessed into an open
chamber upon its under side, as indicated by the dotted lines Figure 2, for the
purpose of heating the upper surface or top, which is effected by means of a
gas pipe (c) passing from the rear of the machine into the chamber, where it
is suitably arranged with jets, a funnel (c) being also furnished for conveying
away the foul air to any convenient part. (d) is a slide working with a
vertical motion within the upper fore arm of the framework (b); this slide
supports and carries a second slide (e) having a reciprocating horizontal action,
and also a piece of hard wood (f) shaped like an ordinary flat iron, and
provided with a handle (f). This block of wood (f) is pressed down upon
the work under operation by means of the slide (d), and which slide is actuated

page_text: by a wheel (g) and attendant screw (g), motion being imparted to them by
a chain passing around the wheel (g), over pullies (h), and the two ends
attached to treadle levers (i, 1) which work upon a centre or axis (j), the
pressure of the block or presser (f) being regulated and rendered adjustable
by the spring and set screws (%), and it is capable of receiving a backward
and forward motion by the second slide (e) worked by means of a double
cranked arm (,,) connected to the foot treadle (m). The presser (f) is
attached to this second slide (e) by means of a bolt let into a recess in the
slide, and being screwed by a worm into the presser shewn in dotted lines
Figure 2, thus the presser (f) may be worked with a to-and-fro motion by
means of the handle (f) from side to side, as may be found desirable. I
employ with this machine a feeding apparatus or support for the material in
its passage to the ironing or pressing table, and which may consist, as shewn in
Figures 1 and 2, of a bracket (n).carrying a pair of curved wings or sides (n¹)
similar in shape to a ploughshear, which receive the work in the flat and
gradually raise it until the seam euters a channel or groove, seen in Figure 1,
and the work still advancing meets a wedge-shape projection (o) suspended
in position by bracket arms (01) from the framework (6), which wedge form
enters between the two halves of the material, causing them gradually to lie
tack, so that when they come upon the heated table they will lie flat and
ready for the descent of the presser; the edges also of the seam which have
been passing up the channel or groove come in contact with a projecting nose
formed upon the fore end of the heated plate, which divides and flattens out the
two edges as required.
Figure 3 shews in front elevation a modification of the machine already
specified. Instead of two slides being employed, one only (p) is provided, and
works up and down by the same means as the slide (d) of Figure 1, with the
exception that instead of a chain wheel a hand wheel (g) is fixed upon the
top of the regulating screw. The pressing machine with the feed apparatus
shewn and described at Figures 1 and 2 suitably modified may be employed in
conjunction with a sewing machine if desired, and driven by the same power,
so that as the work is sewn it may pass on to the pressing table in continuous
lengths to be pressed without the stoppage of either machine. I propose in
some instances when it is requisite not only to press but also to shape an
article of clothing or portions of such articles to employ instead of the flat
surface or heated table (6¹) and wooden block (f) or presser, Figures 1 and
2, other shapes of any desired contour, the one being a counterpart of the
other, and acting as dies, between which the material may be shaped.
A further development of this part of my Invention will be seen at

page_text: Figures 4, 5, and 6. Figure 4 is a vertical and Figure 5 a transverse
section of the various parts forming one of my improved counterpart or body
pressing machines for the use of tailors, here shewn as applied for the purpose
of pressing a coat, but I can employ the same principle of action for pressing
other descriptions of garments.
(A), Figures 4 and 5, is the inner body or form, and upon which is
buttoned the garment to be operated upon; this inner body is divided into
four parts so as to be capable of expansion and contraction, and these parts
are provided with lap joints, as seen in section Figure 5. (B) is a standard
for the purpose of supporting the inner body (A), which is formed with slide
flanges (c) working upon the standard (B); (D) are iron rods passing
through the entire length of the form, and support at their upper ends a
collar picco (E), which is wormed to receive a vertical screwed shaft (F),
upon the upper end of which is attached the hand wheel; the lower end of
this wormed shaft or regulating screw (F) works loose within the wedge
shaft (G), and this shaft when actuated by the screw (F) works up and
down upon the rod (H) secured to the standard (B); (I) are projecting
pieces secured two to each of the four parts of the inner body (A), and meet
the wedge forms of the shaft (G) as shewn; (K) is the outer body or
counterpart divided equally, and which may be hinged as shewn at (K') upon
a vertical bar (L), which is secured to a wall or in any suitable position; (M)
is a pipe for conveying the heat or steam required into the inner body, which
may be circulated in any convenient manner, such as by conducting steam
piping up and around the inner body, or by forming each of the quarters of
the same with a chamber or recess to contain hot water. When required to
be pressed and shaped a coat is buttoned upon the inner form (A) and upon
the garment is closed and secured by means of suitable fastenings the outer
casing or counterpart (K), a series of holes being provided in the same to
allow of the passage of the buttons or other projecting parts not requiring
to be pressed. The operator by means of the hand wheel and screw (F)
then proceeds to force down the wedge shaft (G), the wedge forms of which
impinge against and open outwards the projecting pieces (I), which action
consequently expands cqually on all sides, the inner body or shape (A) with
the garment upon it, until the latter is pressed up to the surface of the rigid
or fixed counterpart (K), Figure 6, shewing a coat upon the expanded
inner body (A) after the process of pressing and the removal of the outer
casing (K).
Figures 7 and 8 represent in front elevation and longitudinal section
another form of my pressing machine shewn in the Drawings as actuated

page_text: by steam power by means of the fly wheel (N) and fast and loose pulleys
(N), but which may work with a treadle movement if desired. (0) is the
heated chamber, in this instance closed upon all sides and heated by a steam
pipe; this machine has the same two slides described in Figures 1 and 2, but
working with different actions; the slide (P) is moved upwards by a pin (Q)
revolving with and forming part of the driving shaft (R); this pin is formed
so as to constitute an eccentric working in a recess in the slide (P) as shewn,
the revolution of the driving shaft (R) brings up the eccentric pin (Q)
against the upper surface of the recess, forcing up the slide (P) until the
continuing motion of the shaft takes down again the pin (Q) and allows the
slide to fall or be lowered, the pressure required being obtained by a suitable
spring, a helical form of spring being shewn in the Drawings. The advancing
and receding motion of the slide (S) I obtain by employing a grooved
eam (T) upon the shaft (R), within the groove of this cam a roller (U)
travels, and this roller is attached to a bar (V) working upon an axis (V¹)
at its lower end, and attached or jointed above the roller (U) to a second
bar or arın (W), which is also jointed by suitable means to the slide (S);
the revolution of the shaft (R) causes the roller (U) to work or traverse
within the groove of the cam (T), and thereby gives to the slide (S) its
requisite motion. The action of these slides is intermittent, the one following
the other, and this machine is mostly applicable to the pressing of coat sleeves
and trousers; the presser (S¹) descends upon the work, and the action of the
eccentric pin (Q) allows the presser (S¹) to rest a given time upon the work,
which it also draws over the heated surface with a receding action caused by
the roller working in the grooved cum (T), so that this presser performs a
motion similar to a vertical parallelogram, three motions of which have a quick
speed and the fourth a slow one, thus giving time for the heat to penetrate
the material. If it be desired to actuate the machine, as shewn at
Figures 1 and 2, by means of the intermittent cam action, a fly wheel on
which the cam is fixed is attached to or works ou an axis at (1), Figure 2,
and which imparts motion to suitable levers and cranks, thereby obtaining
the same movements of the machine, Figure 1, by the foot as is obtained
by steam power in the machine, Figure 8, thus dispensing with the use of
the treadle lever, (i and i¹). With the larger size machines it is preferable
to use a pair of cog wheels of different diameters for the purpose of increasing
the power of the treadle.
Figure 9 is intended to illustrate another mode of constructing my pressing
machine (1) is the heated table; (2) is the presser furnished with suitable
handles (3); (4) is a tubular shaft working with a ball-and-socket action

page_text: within the upper part of the presser (2), another shaft (5), also retained
with a ball-and-socket joint within a casting (6), secured to the ceiling or a
beam of the apartment by means of bolts, works within the tubular shaft (4)
with a telescopic action, and the presser is raised from the table by means of
a stirrup and cord, the latter passing over a pulley (7), and from thence to
the extremity of a lever bar (8), the other end of which works upon an
arm from the beam; this lever bar passes under or around a collar (9),
formed upon the upper part of the tubular shaft (4), so that upon the
pressure of the foot in the stirrup the collar (9), and with the shaft upon
which is the presser (2) is caused to move upwards, and when this pressure
is relieved the presser descends, being forced down by the action of the
helical spring (10). It will be evident that this kind of upper pressing
plate (2) suspended above the heated table (1) in manner described will be
capable of receiving motion in every direction. In place of the flat heated
table (1), Figure 9, I can substitute if desired a wooden bust or counterpart
of the garment under operation supported in bearings at each end, and a
garment having been buttoned or fastened upon the same may be turned
round so as to enable the operator to press it in any part by means of the
suspended pressor (2). I may here remark that the heated table (1), which
has been described in connection with this and the other descriptions of my
improved machines, can be readily applied to ordinary machines which are
employed for tho purposes of ironing, mangling, or pressing.
Again, I employ another description of pressing machine as exhibited at.
Figs. 10 and 11 in front and part sectional and part side elevations, consisting
of a pair of hollow cylindrical rolls (A) mounted horizontally within a frame-
work, casting, or support (B), and these rolls are capable of revolving either
in the same or contrary directions, and may be capable of moving to and fro
or backwards and forwards by means of levers and screws at equal or unequal
speeds, motion being imparted to them by treadle, hand, or steam power; a
fly whoel (C) and pulleys (C) being shewn in the Drawings, the axis of
which (D) is formed into a wormed shaft, communicating motion to a cog
pinion (E) upon the axis of the lower roll, which in turn actuates a second
cog pinion upon the axis of the upper roll. The rolls are heated either by
means of gas jets (E) within the hollow spaces, as here shewn, which gas jets
would be independent of the rolls, or by charcoal, steam, or hot water, in
which case the hollow of the cylinders would be reduced and the annular bulk
increased to form the reservoir for the charcoal, steam, or hot water, a fuuncl
being attached at the rear of the machine to create draught and to convey
away the surplus gas or steam. A board or table (F) is fixed in such position

page_text: that a portion of the lower pressing cylinder or roll may pass through it, which
table receives the work to be passed through the rolls. The upper roll is
capable of being lowered upon or raised from the work by means of a hand
wheel (G) or handle if desired in connection with an adjusting screw (H),
and spring fitted in the casting above the upper roll, also enabling the
operator to adjust the rolls to any degree of pressure required. In order to
obtain a damping process, which is requisite to take off the gloss caused by
the operation of pressing the material between the rolls (A), I can employ a
steam pipe (K), by the side of which is a revolving brush (L), so that the
material first receives the damping process from the action of the steam pipe
(K), and afterwards the surface is brushed as it passes underneath the
revolving brush (L); or instead of these means I can substitute for the same
a travelling band, which must be wetted and which may pass round two or
more pullies or drums, and is slightly pressed upon the cloth by the hot
cylinder described or a second cylinder placed laterally with the pressing
cylinder. In pressing cloth or other materials which do not require to have
a gloss or glaze left upon their surface the rolls will generally revolve in the
same direction, but when pressing materials which require a high degree of
finish I propose to cover the lower roll with a felt or blanket substance, and
cause the upper roll to revolve at a much greater speed than the lower,
which will produce a rubbing action, and will be especially adapted for the
finishing of stays, shirt collars, or the like descriptions of articles; and in place
of the rolls already specified I propose in soine instances to employ rolls of
suitable shapes to give the desired form to the articles under operation.
Again, I can employ similar rolls to those at (A), Figs. 10 and 11, for the
pressing of the sides of hats when they are revolving in opposite directions;
and in place of the brush (L) I sometimes employ a velvet or plush surface,
and instead of the upper roll being adjusted by the hand wheel (G), it might
by the substitution of a bar for the screw (H) be actuated by a dummy or
guide of the same outline as the sides of the hat, and which dummy being
fixed upon the axis of the upper roll would allow it to slightly pass over,
smooth, or rub the surface of the hat, thereby imparting a finish without
injury to the texture; the lower roll upon which the hat would be fixed
might also have a to-and-fro motion longitudinally beneath the upper roll for
the purpose of bringing the entire body of the hat from the crown to the brim
under the action of the upper roll.
In further adapting my improved machine for the use of hatters, for
instance when it is desired to finish the top of a hat. I employ instead of the
lower roll a block or shape,seenat (M), Figure 12,having received a hat, which

page_text: block (M) is mounted upon an axis (N) driven by a pulley (0), and working
in supports or standards (P'); this block (M) is capable of being drawn
outwards or retired to suit the requirements of the workman and the varying
sizes and shapes by means of a slide (Q) actuated by a suitable lever and
handle (Q). (R) is the heated travelling roll mounted in bearings as shewn,
and worked upon an axis which may be in the same plane as the axis (N),
but revolving in the opposite direction; this heated roll I form with half or a
segment of its circumference a brushing surface (S), which may be either a
fixture проп the heated roll (R) or revolve in bearings upon it, deriving its
motion from a friction roller or other like means. A portion of the arrange-
ment,as shewn at Figure 12 in connection with parts of the machine Figures 10
and 11, may also be used for the purpose of pressing the brim of a hat by the
employment of a double dummy, which in combination with a universal slide
will bring the brim up to the surface of the heated roll (R); and to meet the
requirements of difforing fashions I propose to use different blocks and
dummies.
Figure 13 exhibits the mode in which I may sometimes prefer to make the
rolls I have described. In this case I form a polygonal-sided roll, the sides of
which (T) may be hinged or otherwise connected together, and upon their
inner surface I form cogs or teeth for engaging in similar cogs upon a revolving
wheel (U); this form of roll may be supported by means of rolls (V) or other
mechanical means, and may be heated in similar manner to those already
alluded to, or may be formed so that each side or part is separately heated.
In cases where it is not expedient to employ a revolving damping and
brushing surface as specified in Figures 10 and 11, I employ a brush as shewn
in under side view at (W), Figure 14, through which a perforated steam
pipe (W) is passed, which is connected to a steam boiler (X) by means of
flexible piping, and when in use the steam circulates or passes from the
pipe (W) in the centre of the brush (W) upon the material under operation,
the subsequent brushing completing the process. The steam boiler (X) may
be formed part of or secured upon the funnel of any of the pressing machines
I have described, and may be heated by the waste heat which returns from the
heated table or roll. For the purpose of ensuring combustion and increasing
the heat when it may be found requisite I propose to use a fan or blower,
which may be attached to either of the machines described, and be worked
from the same driving power.
Having thus described the nature and object of my said Invention, and in
what manner the same may be carried into effect, I wish it to be understood
that I do not limit myself to the precise details or configuration of the various

page_text: parts of the machinery herein described and illustrated, or to the exact position
of such parts, as it will be evident that the same may be varied without
departing from the principles of the Invention; but that which I claim is the
combinations of the within described mechanical parts or any mere equivalents
of the same producing machinery or apparatus capable of being employed for
the purposes of ironing, pressing, damping, and finishing garments, materials,
or articles of any description requiring to be so treated in manner herein more
fully set forth and specified.
In witness whereof, I, the said James Moore Clements, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, this Eighteenth day of September, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-seven.
JAMES MOORE CLEMENTS. (L.S.)