IMPROVEMENTS IN STITCH- ING AND ORNAMENTING VARIOUS MATERIALS, AND IN MACHINERY AND APPARATUS
Year: 1853

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Julian Bernard, of 15, Regent Street, in the County
of Middlesex, Gentleman, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN STITCH-
ING AND ORNAMENTING VARIOUS MATERIALS, AND IN MACHINERY AND APPARATUS
Scaled the 20th June 1854, and dated the 31st December 1853.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Julian Bernard at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 31st
December 1853.
I, JULIAN BERNARD, of 15, Regent Street, in the County of Middlesex,
Gentleman, do hereby declare the particulars of the said Invention for
"IMPROVEMENTS IN STITCHING AND ORNAMENTING VARIOUS MATERIALS, AND
MACHINERY AND APPARATUS CONNECTED THEREWITH," to be as follows:→
This Invention relates, first, to certain improvements upon a method of
stitching, and the machinery connected therewith, provisionally patented by
me, and bearing date the Sixth day of December now last past, and entitled
Improvements in Machinery or Apparatus for Stitching or Uniting and Orna-
menting various Materials.
And the first part of my improvements upon said Invention consists of a
novel method or arrangement of enlarging the loop of the second thread or
filament, so as to admit the second or third thread through it. Instead of the
openers or expanders described in said Provisional Specification, and instead of
said expanders I propose to employ two small arms, secured loose at one end

page_text: by a pin to the end of a compound lever, the other ends of such arms
being slightly bent or hooked. They have also a slot formed in or about the
middle of each. These slots are made to pass over a fixed pin secured to a
fixed part of the machine. The slots are so formed or made at such an angle
as to cause the hooked ends of the arms to part when drawn in one direction,
and to come together when drawn or pulled in another, and are for the purpose
of opening the loop so as to allow another filament to pass through the loop so
formed. This instrument may be either employed in machines with two or
three threads; and I prefer to actuate it by means of a link or lever with an
intermediate lever, the link and lever being placed upon suitable centres
placed in a fixed part underneath the bed of the machine, and the latter lever
actuated by a cam or button placed upon the main shaft of the machine.
Attached to the link which actuates these arms or loop openers, is another
similar instrument to the opener already described, but with larger hooks so as
to retain the thread (the others being so formed and actuated upon by an
incline in their ascent as to cause the filament to be released from their hooked
ends), the intention and purpose of which is to take up the slack and keep
the thread in a distended form.
Another part of my Invention relates to and consists of producing by means
of machinery a peculiar kind of stitch, known as fish bone stitch, AAAAAAAA
and which stitch is used for securing the edges of various materials and also for
ornamenting the same. The manner in which I perform this kind of stitch is
as follows: While the material is being passed or travelled under the needle,
I impart to it an alternate lateral or side travel together with a forward travel,
and which motion will have the effect of presenting the material underneath
the needle, so as to produce the peculiar kind of stitch described. This result
is obtained by imparting the motion described to the friction band wheel, or
other travelling means used for actuating the material, such parts being passed
over a bar or immediately connected with a moveable piece or part to which
the lateral motion is imparted, and which I perform by means of a lever o
bar which has placed upon or in it one or more inclines, either in the form o
slots or otherwise, and through or against which pins connected to or with the
said moveable part are made to pass or act against. This inclined or slotted
inclined lever is actuated by means of another lever and connected to the
slotted lever by means of a pin, and is placed upon a fixed centre, and receive
its motion direct from a button or projection on the main shaft of the machine
When a straight seam only is required, the lever with the incline slots in it
which acts upon the moveable bar connected with the feeding motion, is force

page_text: or acted against by a small cam or incline, so as to pass or place it beyond the
effective stroke of the lever which actuates it, a parallel slot or slots being
formed in it for that purpose, a spring being employed to keep it in contact
with such cam, and which cam or incline is connected with a handle and index,
so as to regulate the action of the lever and the lateral travel of the material,
and thereby regulate the size or distance apart of each stitch, a similar
arrangement being placed and made to actuate in a suitable position the lever
for imparting to the material the forward travel, and the said indexes may be
so formed or regulated that the same figures will indicate the same amount
of travel in both directions, that is in a lateral or forward or longitudinal
direction.
Another part of my Invention has reference to an improved mode of stitch-
ing, whereby I unite materials by thread or filament, and which I perform by
a straight needle and rod similar to that described in my before-mentioned
Provisional Specification, and the kind of stitch is to a certain extent similar
to that known as crochet, tambour, or chain stitch, but unlike it, in so far that
the tendency to unravel or come undone, will be diminished or prevented when
the thread is pulled at either end, and I prevent this tendency by two distinct
methods, the first of which I perform in the following manner and by the
following means:-The material to be stitched being travelled underneath the
needle by the means described in my before-mentioned Specification, a thread
is passed through the eye of the needle and its end secured to the material.
The needle is then caused to descend and pass the thread in a doubled state
through the material, when a hooked or sharp pointed instrument, one of its
sides near its point having a pin or projection formed on it, is partially inserted
between the needle and portion of thread fixed or secured to the material,
by means of the said sharp or pointed instrument being travelled forward in
the right direction by means of a lever placed upon a suitable centre in a
convenient part of the machine, and which lever I actuate by a suitable cam,
by the said instrument continuing its course a loop is formed; and through the
side or end next to or fixed in the cloth I pass or insert the needle a sufficient
distance or length to bring the thread in a suitable position for the pointed
instrument to repeat its operation. The side of the loop or thread to be pierced
is brought directly under the point of the needle by a lateral motion imparted
to the pointed instrument, by means of an incline which is caused to come in
contact with it. I also propose to turn or twist the loop so as to encircle
entirely one of the sides of the stitch or loop immediately following, whether
the needle be passed through the side of the loop or not, and I perform this

page_text: by making the pointed instrument forked or with two points, and imparting to
it a revolving or partially revolving motion, so as to bring the loop in a
twisted form underneath the needle's point, and which revolving motion may
be imparted to it by a pinion or cord being placed or made fast upon the
instrument or its shaft, and which may be actuated in any convenient manner,
said shaft being provided with a swivel joint.
Another part of my improvements consists of bringing or turning the
thread in a double form from the one side of the material to another, and
which mode of stitching is employed for button holes or securing the edges of
various materials, and the manner in which I perform the operation is as
follows: The thread being passed through the needle and its end secured to
the material, the needle is inserted through it until a suflicient portion of the
thread is inserted on the other side to form a loop which is formed, and at
right angles to the edge of the material. The needle is then drawn up or out
of the material, and the loop already formed is at the same time drawn up or
over the edge by means of a hooked instrument, and which has a small gap or
slot in it for the purpose herein-after described. This instrument being made
of steel contains an inherent spring, by which together with a small slotted
or grooved incline, it is caused to move Interally in its ascent or descent, which
motion it receives direct from a cam placed upon a shaft moved in a fixed part
of the machine, and directly above it or by means of a lever placed upon a
centre and actuated by a cam on the main shaft. When the hooked instrument
containing the gap or notch in it has taken hold of the loop which has been
previously moved in a lateral direction, the notched instrument descends so
that its hooked end is lower than the loop, and which comes slightly in contact
with it in its descent; when 'it'ascends it takes the loop of the first instrument,
by means of the lateral motion already described, and a partially circular one.
It brings the loop immediately underneath the points of the needle, which is
now made to descend in the slotted or gapped part of the instrument, and con-
sequently through the loop. The instrument now by a reverse motion leaves
the needles course clear. The operation is now repeated; by these means, the
edges and button holes of garments and other materials can be secured; and I
would remark that the loop can be either formed on the upper or lower side
of such materials; if formed above or on the needle side, the loop is formed
before the needle is inserted. And I would also remark, that this mode of
stitching by suitable modifications can be adapted to machines employed for
stitching by one or more threads, and the loop formed of either the needle,
thread, or of those used to retain it in the material. The partially circular

page_text: motion is imparted to the notched instrument by means of a slot or slots cut
or formed in a collar through which the instrument moves, a pin being passed
through it which travels in said slot, and in order that the said instrument
may move in a circular direction with ease and accuracy, there may be a joint
or swivel formed in it.
Another part of my improvements relates to certain mechanical arrange-
ments for producing or forming the hem stitch, and consists in the employment
of a sliding metal blade or bar having a rounded edge, and fitted with pins
or points on its upper and lower surfaces for the purpose of holding the
material to be hemmed. This blade is laid upon the material, the edge of
which is turned over on to the upper surface of the blade, and is caught by
the pins or points before mentioned, which retain, the material in the desired
position. It is then turned back again so as to bring its extreme edge slightly
over the edge of the blade. In this state the work is ready for the needle,
which passes directly (either vertically or horizontally) through the slightly
overhanging edge of the material, and through that portion also of the
material which is folded or lapped over the edge of the blade, thereby
effectually uniting the two portions of the material. The blades may be
made either straight or curved according to the form or contour of the hem,
and the requisite traverse for the length of stitch may be obtained by a
counterweight cord and friction pulley, or by any other suitable mechanical
arrangement. The blade is guided during its traverse by a pair of fixed arms
immediately over the bar, and fixed in any convenient part of the machine
forked at one end, such fork embracing a projecting rail formed on the upper
surface of the blade. And I propose to perform two or more different kinds
of stitching by one machine, and adding or arranging such mechanical parts
as already described and referred to, on one bed. plate or frame, as will be
necessary for performing different descriptions of stitching as already described,
whether by means of or in combination with the radial or moveable arm
described in my Provisional Specification herein-before referred to, or fixed
arms. And I would remark when I do not specially or more fully describe
the general details or arrangements, for carrying out or actuating the different
operations herein referred to with greater minuteness, that such parts or
arrangements as are described in my aforesaid Provisional Specification are to
be used for more fully carrying out the same, or such parts are to be adapted
to any of the existing arrangements.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Julian Bernard in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 30th
June 1854.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, 1, JULIAN
BERNARD, of 15, Regent Street, in the County of Middlesex, Gentleman, send
greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Thirty-first day of December, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-three, in the seventeenth year of Her
reign, did, for Ierself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the
said Julian Bernard, Her special license that I, the said Julian Bernard, my
executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Julian
Bernard, my executors, administrators, or assigns, should at any time agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the
term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel
Islands, and Isle of Man. an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN STITCHING AND
ORNAMENTING VARIOUS MATERIALS, AND IN MACHINERY AND APPARATUS CONNECTED
THEREWITH," upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said Julian
Bernard, by an instrument in writing under my hand and seal, should par-
ticularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what
manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the
Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately
after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Julian Bernard, do hereby declare the
nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed,
to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement,
reference being had to the accompanying Drawings, and to the letters and
figures marked thereon, that is to say:-
My said Invention relates,-
1st, to the production by means of machinery of a peculiar kind of stitch,
somewhat similar to that known as herring bone," which stitch is used for
uniting materials and securing their edges; and also for ornamenting the same,
and which I term "diamond stitch."
2nd, to the production of another improved form of stitch, which is also
suitable for uniting and ornamenting materials and securing their edges, which
is also applicable to button holes.
3rd, to the production of another improved stitch, and part of the means

page_text: employed therein, and which is similar to a certain extent to that known as
crochet, tambour, or chain stitch, but unlike it in so far that the tendency to
unravel or come undone will be diminished or prevented entirely when the
thread is pulled at either end.
4th, to a peculiar arrangement and construction of mechanism for "hemming"
or securing the edges of materials.
5th, to placing or securing on one common bed plate two or more sets of
mechanism, each having independant needle mechanism for sewing or
stitching.
I accomplish the first portion of my Invention or the production of the
diamond stitch by imparting to the material to be stitched or ornamented an
alternate, lateral, or side travel in conjunction with a forward travel, which
compound motion will have the effect of presenting the material underneath
the needle in such a manner as to produce the peculiar kind of stitch referred
to. I obtain this result by imparting the compound motion herein-before
described to the friction band wheel or other travelling means used for actuating
or feeding in the material. The lateral motion is obtained from a bell crank
or other lever actuated by a circumferentially double grooved cam, which is
fitted with a moveable catch or director to direct a stud into the end of the
lever into each groove alternately for every revolution of the cam. The other
end of the lever is connected to a sliding plate working in grooves in the bed
plate of the machine; and through suitable slots in this plate is passed the
friction band or wheel for actuating the material. It thus obviously follows
that by imparting a slight lateral movement to the plate a corresponding lateral
motion will be communicated to the friction band or wheel, which will thereby
bring the material into the proper positions underneath the needle. In order
to allow for the lateral play of the plate, an elongated hole is made therein,
through which hole the vertical needle passes on piercing the material. Figure
1, on Sheet 1 of my Drawings, represents a plan of a portion of a sewing
machine, with the arrangements herein-before described adapted thereto. A is
a portion of the bed plate of the machine; and B, the moveable plate, which
gives the lateral motion to the feeding wheel or friction band C. This band is
passed through slots in the plate B, and travels over its surface, being actuated
by wide driving pullies, not shewn in my Drawing, or the pulleys or feeding
wheel may slide upon fixed stud centres. D is a bell crank lever working on
a fixed centre E in the under side of the table or bed plate. The extremity of
the long arm of this lever is fitted with an anti-friction pulley or stud F, which
works freely in the grooves G and I of the cam I. This cam is carried on the
driving shaft or any other suitable shaft J of the machine, such shaft making

page_text: one revolution for every insertion of the needle, and is fitted with a pointed
moveable catch or director K, which turns on the centre L. This director
serves to guide or direct the stud pin of the lever D from one groove of the
cam to the other, as 1 shall herein-after more fully explain. When the point
of the director is on one side or other of the cam, the tail piece M will project
slightly into one of the grooves, as shewn in the Drawing; and as the cain
revolves in the direction of the arrow, the protruding portion of the tail M will
strike against the stud E of the lever D, which will by that means reverse the
position of the director by bringing it over to the other side of the cam, in which
position it will remain until again reversed by the stud pin F. It will thus be
obvious that the stud I will change from one groove to the other at each revo-
lution of the cam shaft, and will remain in such groove until the director comes
round, and by its inclined edge pushes the stud pin of the lever into the other
groove, thereby giving an alternating lateral movement to the lever D, which
motion is communicated to the plate B by the short arm of the lever D, the
pin N of which works in a short slot in the plate B, as shewn in the Drawing.
O is the needle shewn in transverse section, working in an elongated hole in
the plate B to allow of its lateral traverse. In stitching or ornamenting
materials by this machine the needle O with its thread is brought down by any
suitable mechanism and inserted into the material to be seamed or ornamented,
which is fed in and held down by any suitable arrangement, and the stitches
formed therein; the needle is then withdrawn, and the material is traversed
forward and laterally, thereby bringing a different point of its surface under the
needle, which again descends and rises, and the material is again moved for-
wards, and laterally according to the extent of the stitch to be produced. The
needle is again inserted and the movements continued, the peculiar form of
stitch shewn in diagram plan, at Fig. 2, being the stitch produced by this
machine.
I may here observe that I have not considered it necessary to shew any
complete arrangement of sewing machine, as it will be obvious to the practical
man that the arrangement herein-before described and shewn in Fig. 1 of my
Drawings may be readily adapted to the sewing machines at present in use,
this peculiar mechanisin being thrown out of gear when not required by with-
drawing the stud pin which works in the plate B, or by a clutch in connection
with the cam 1.
Although I prefer the cloth or material to move laterally under the needle,
I would have it distinctly understood that I do not confine myself to this
particular mode of producing the stitch, as a lateral motion may be given to the
needle instead of to the material; but what I claim as this part of my Inven-

page_text: tion is, the peculiar stitch described and illustrated, whether such stitch be
formed by a primary thread looped with. itself or secured in connection with
one or more threads.
"
In carrying out the second head of my Invention, namely, the securing of
the clges of materials and button holes, which I effect by either one or more
threads, I bring or turn the thread in a double or looped form from the one
side of the material to the other side, so as to overlap the edge and inscrt: the
needle into the loop which is thus turned over. This loop, in one arrangement
wherein I employ two threads, is obtained from a second thread, which is passed
by a suitable instrument or opener" through the loop formed in the needle
thread under the material to be ornamented or secured.; The loop of the
second thread is then caught by a forked instrument or!" returner" which
raises it above the edge of the material, and when in this position it is laid
hold of by a spring rod or lever, which I shall term a "finger," which draws it
over the material in readiness for the next descent of the needle. This finger
is actuated by an inclined projection formed upon it, which projection is actuated
by a slotted incline upon the needle slide, and as the needle descends the finger
takes the loop from the forked instrument or "returner", and draws it over the
edge of the material just previous to the entrance of the needle therein. The
needle with its thread then descends and passes through the loop so turned
over and through the material. On the ascent of the needlo the incline on the
needle slide moves back the "finger" in readiness to receive another loop from
the "returner."
In order to render this portion of my Invention more readily understood, I
shall now proceed to refer to and describe the several Figures on the Sheets of
Drawings relating thereto. Fig. 3, on Sheet 1 of my Drawings, represents a
sectional elevation of a portion of a sewing machine of a suitable construction;
Fig. 4 is a plan of the mechanism; Fig. 5 is a detail, shewing the finger, and
the incline for actuating it herein-before referred to; Fig. 6 is a full sized
detail of the loop."opener," with a portion of the mechanism connected
thereto, looking from the under side of the machine; Fig. 7 is a detail side
clevation, full size, of the working end of the loop "opener," shewing the
position of the thread therein; and Fig. 8 is a front and side elevation of
the "returner," full size. A, is the bed plate. of the machine, supporting the
bracket B, which carries the needle slide C; to the front of the bracket is
secured the "finger" D, which serves to throw the loop over the edge of
the material. This finger has an outward motion imparted to it by means
of the incline E, in the needle slide (shewn more clearly in the detail front
elevation Fig. 5); F is the "returner," which is carried on one end of the

page_text: lever G, working upon tlie fixed centre H, attached to the bed plate of the
machine. The tail of this lever is actuated by the cam I, ou tlie driving
shaft J, shewn in plan at Fig. 4, and a vertical movement is thereby given to
the returner. The "opener" K, represented in side elevation at Fig. 7, carries
the second thread, which is colored blue in the Drawing, when two threads:
are employed, and is attached to the horizontal slide L, in the bed plate, and
is, actuated by means of the cam M, and stud N. A small pin Q, in the
upper side of the opener, serves to impart to it a partial circular or curvilinear
traversé by sliding alternately along one side or the other of the catch P,
which is kept pressed against the ledge Q, by the blade spring R. This
partial circular traverse of the opener is for the purpose of placing the over-
lapping loop on the end of the returner which has previously come into a
proper position to receive it. The action of this machine is as follows:-The
thread being passed through the needle S, and its end being secured to the
material to be stitched or ornamented, the needle is inserted through the
material until a sufficient length of its thread is passed through to the other
-side to form a loop, through which loop is passed the end of the "opener" K,
.with its thread. When the "opener" is moved forward to enter the loop of
the needle, its pin O slides between the fixed ledge or guide Q and the spring
catch P, which latter it opens, and on its return slides up the inclined end T,
of the catch and returns along the outside of the same, the inherent spring in
the shank of the opener allowing of such lateral movement. By the lateral
motion just described, the thread of the opener is passed round the forked top of
the returner F, in the form of a loop. The needle S is then drawn up or out
of the material as shewn in the Drawing, and the loop of the second thread
already formed is at the same time drawn up or above the edge of the
material by the ascent of the "returner." The needle then begins to descend
again, and in its descent, but before reaching the material it draws down the
inclined projection E, and thereby allows the finger D, by its inherent spring
ito move forward and by passing its point under the thread between the forks
of the returner takes the loop therefrom, which loop it lays over the edge of
the material, and there holds it until the needle has passed through it and
through the material and again ascended. The ascent of the needle by the
aid of the projection E, and bend E', in the "finger" brings the finger back
again to the position shewn in the Drawing in readiness for another loop,
which it takes just previous to the entering of the needle point into the
material. The needle is supplied with thread from the bobbin V, and the
opener from the bobbin U, on the bracket B. The peculiar form of stitch
thus produced is represented in the enlarged diagrain Fig. 9, in which the

page_text: needle thread is colored red and the thread of the opener colored blue. In
performing this stitch by means of one thread only, a slight modification
merely is requisite in the form of the end of the opener, which is shewn in
Figure 10, where a small horn or projection A, is formed thereon. In this
case the "opener" of course does not carry a thread, but merely enters the
loop of the needle thread, and by its lateral or partial circular motion
expands the loop and admits of the entrance of the returner therein. This
loop is then carried up by the returner and laid over the edge of the material
by the "finger" D, in the manner before described, and the needle S is then
passed through it and through the material, where a second loop is formed
and the movements continued in the manner I have herein-before described.
Figure 11, shews a diagram plan of this one thread stitch showing one side
thereof, the other side resembles in appearance the side of the two thread
stitch, shewn at Figure 9. And in regard to this portion of my Invention, I
would remark that I do not limit or confine myself to the particular mode of
carrying out the kind and description of stitch described, whether the same be
performed by means of one or more threads; but what I do claim is, the
securing or ornamenting of "button," "lace," or other holes," or the
edges of various materials, or securing or uniting materials by their edges by
means of one or more filaments; such filament or filaments being doubled
or formed into a loop on one side the material and secured on the other.
In the carrying out of the third portion of my Invention, which consists of
another improved form of stitch for uniting or ornamenting materials similar
to the ordinary crochet or chain stitch, but with the advantage of not having
so great a tendency to become unravelled, I employ one or more thread or
threads in conjunction with a straight needle, and a revolving hooked in-
strument, which latter is for the purpose of taking the loop from the needle,
and by its revolution giving one or more turns or twists to the loop before the
needle is re-inserted.
By this means the increased friction that will occur in attempting to unravel
the thread from the material by drawing either eud will greatly add to its
security and durability, and the appearance of the stitch moreover will be
improved by the twisting of the loops in the manner herein-before described.
Figure 1, on Sheet 2 of my Drawings, represents a side elevation, and
partial vertical section of a compound sewing machine, in which at one end A,
of the bed plate, I have represented the mechanism for effecting my improved
crochet stitch, and at the other end B, I have represented the mode by which
I accomplish the hemming or sewing of the edges of materials, and which I
shall herein-after more fully describe. A, A', is the comnion bed plate of the

page_text: machine which is fitted with the pair of arms or brackets B, C. The bracket
B, carries the needle slide D, which is broken away at the top. The hooked
instrument E, represented in detail, side elevation, and plan at Fig. 2, is carried
by the horizontal slide F, which works in a suitable grcove on the under side
of the bed plate, and is actuated by a cam or eccentric G, on the main shaft H.
The shank of the hooked instrument E, has a grooved boss I, formed upon it
which fits into the end of the slide F, and is retained therein, but allowed to
revolve freely by a small pin J. The lever K, which transmits motion to the
slide F, from the cam G, works on the fixed centre L, and is fitted with an
india-rubber or other spring M, for the purpose of keeping the pully N.
against its cam. The rotatory motion of the hooked instrument is obtained
from the rack O, and pinion P, the latter being either fixed on to the shank of
the hooked instrument, and made wide to allow of its longitudinal traverse, as
shewn in the Drawing, or it may work on a feather in the shank, in which
case it would not require to be wider than the rack itself, as it would always
remain in the same position whilst the hooked instrument would traverse
backwards and forwards through it. The rack P, which is fitted with a
vertical stud Q, is actuated by the cam R, and works in a groove in the
bed plate S. This cam works against the stud Q, so that by its revolu-
tion a to and fro sliding motion is communicated to the rack, a spring being
employed to return it, which is not shewn in the Drawings. As the teeth of
this rack gear into the pinion on the shank of the hooked instrument, it
obviously follows that a rotatory motion will be given to the hooked instrument,
which may be made to make one or more revolutions at each stitch, and con-
sequently give one or more turns or twists to the loops previous to their being
secured by the needle, according to the design of the cam R. In stitching
by this mechanism, the needle S with its thread is inserted through the
material by any suitable mechanism; such, however, forming no part of my
present Invention. The needle is then drawn up slightly so as to form a loop
on the under side of the material, and this loop is caught by the hooked instru-
ment E, previously in a position to receive it, as shewn at Fig. 3. On laying
hold of the loop, the hooked instrument commences to revolve by the rack O
being brought into action, and gives thereby a greater or less twist to the loop.
The needle then rises out of the material, and the material is advanced a short
distance by any suitable well-known feeding mechanism in readiness for the
next succeeding stitch. The needle then descends again, and passes through
the material, and through the loop last formed and twisted. In order that
the needle may be certain of entering the loop, it is partially guided therein by
the groove T, in the end of the hooked instrument, as shewn in plan and side

page_text: elevation at Fig. 2, the hook of the instrument being always vertical at the-
time of the descent of the needle. The hook now makes a slight turn and
simultaneously moves forward, thereby releasing the loop and passing beyond
the needle to the position shewn at Fig. 3, in readiness for taking a second
loop. In order to pass beyond the needle, it is necessary that the hooked
instrument should have a slight lateral motion which is communicated to it by
the swell or incline U, on its shank acting against the fixed pin W, the inherent.
spring in the shank allowing of such lateral motion. A diagram plan of this
stitch is represented at Fig. 4. I may here observe, that as. I claim. more.
especially in this part of my Invention, the production of an improved chain
or tambour stitch, by twisting the loops more or less, I have not considered.
it necessary to shew the needle actuating mechanism or feeding motion, as
these motions may be accomplished in various ways, and form no part what-
ever of this portion of my Invention.
In carrying out the fourth part of my Invention, namely, the "hemming"
or sewing the edges of materials, I employ a sliding metal blade or bar, having
a rounded edge and fitted with pins or points on its upper and lower surface.
for the purpose of holding the material to be hemmed. This blade is laid on
to the material, the edge of which is turned over on to the upper surface of,
the blade, and is caught by the pins or points before mentioned, which retain
the material in the third position. The material is then turned back again so
as to bring its extreme edge slightly over the edge of the blade. In this state
the work is ready for the needle, which passes directly (either vertically or
horizontally) through the slightly overhanging edge of the blade, thereby
effectually uniting the two portions of the material. The blades may be made
either straight or curved, according to the form or contour of the hem, and.
the requisite traverse for the length of stitch may be obtained by any con-
venient feeding mechanism. The blade is guided during its traverse by a pair,
of fixed arms immediately.over the bar, and fixed in any convenient part of
the machine. These arms may be forked at one end, the forks embracing a
projecting ledge or rail formed on or. attached to the upper surface of the,
blade, or in place of forks and a guide rail a slot may be formed in the blade,
in which slot is fitted a fixed stud pin or anti-friction pulley.
In cases where a curvelinear motion is required, the guiding rail or slot,
is correspondingly curved; and in order that this portion of my. Invention,
may be more clearly understood, I shall now proceed more particularly
to describe the Drawings that relate thereto. The end B of the bed plate in,
Fig. 1, on Sheet 2, contains the arrangement, for. effecting tho hemming or
securing of material,, the blades for. holding the material; and, the, material

page_text: It
itself being represented in transverse section. Fig. 5 is a plan of a portion of
the blades with the material contained therein, a portion of it being represented
as stitched. Fig. 6 is an enlarged transverse section of the same. A", represents
the holding blade, which is fitted with pins or sharp points, as shown in Fig. 6.
The material B is laid upon the blade B', and being held by the points below
the blade A", it is turned over the rounded edge of the same as at C, and
is doubled back over the top of the blade A", and there held by the points
contained therein. A portion of the material is then doubled back again
according to the breadth of hem required, and its extreme edge is made to
project slightly beyond the part turned over the rounded edge of the blade
at C, and is held down by a second blade D. The red line in Fig. 6 repre-
sents the position and direction in which the needle enters the material.
will be observed, on referring to the Drawing, that the needle first penetrates
the top fold, and then passes through the turned over portion of the material
at C, but in place of passing close up to the edge of the blade it penetrates
the centre of the thickness of the material, as shewn at Fig. 6, thereby
leaving no traces of the thread on one side of the material when finished.
This is a great advantage in the sewing of various parts of garments, but in
coarser and rougher work, or in many other fabrics, the needle may pass
close up to the blade. I wish it to be distinctly understood, that I do not
confine myself to any particular kind of stitch for sewing the edges or
"hemming" materials, as such may be secured by any suitable stitch. I
have not, therefore, considered it requisite to shew any particular mode of
stitching, but I prefer using for this purpose either of the stitches represented
at Figs. 9 and 11, on Sheet 1 of my Drawings, either of which are well
adapted for hemming materials, and which are fully described under the
second head of my Invention. Neither do I confine myself to any particular
mode of traversing the material beneath the needle, as any of the well-
known feeding motions are applicable for that purpose. But what I
especially claim under this head of my Invention is, the peculiar mode of
doubling and holding the material for the purpose of "hemming" the same,
and the means employed therein.
The sixth and last head of my Invention, namely, the effecting of two or
more kinds of stitching on one bed plate with distinct needles and needle
mechanism, is clearly illustrated in Fig. 1, on Sheet 2 of my Drawings,
wherein a portion of the hemming machine B, and a portion of an improved
crochet machine A, are both fitted on to the one common bed plate A, each
machine having fixed a special needle nechanism or holder of its own, as
shewn in the Drawing. But a double set of any of the well-known arrange-

page_text: ments for stitching may be set upon or secured to one common bed plate, and
may be connected by gearing to a driving apparatus common to both, without
such being a deviation from this part of my improvements, which I declare to
consist of placing or securing two or more, or parts of two or more, stitching
or sewing mechanism to or on one frame or bed plate common to both. And
I would remark, that where I do not more fully describe and illustrate
operations and parts already well known for the purposes of more fully
carrying the different parts and heads of my Invention into effect, that I
propose employing from preference the arrangements already secured to me
by Royal Letters Patent, bearing date the Sixth day of December, One
thousand eight hundred and fifty-three, entitled "Improvements in Machinery
or Apparatus for Stitching or Uniting, and Ornamenting various Materials," as
far as such parts are available.
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of my said
Invention, and the manner in which the same is or may be used or carried into
effect, I would observe, in conclusion, that I do not confine or restrict myself
to the precise details or arrangements which I have had occasion to describe
or refer to, as many variations may be minde therefrom without deviating from
the principles or main features of my said Invention.
In witness whereof, I, the said Julian Bernard, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, the Thirtieth day of June, One thousand eight hundred
and fifty-four.
JULIAN BERNARD. (L.S.)