Improvements in Button Hole Attachments for Sewing Machines.
Year: 1888

page_text: Date of Application, 3rd Jan., 1888
Specification Accepted, 3rd Feb., 1888
Improvements in Button Hole Attachments for Sewing Machines.
I, HERBERT. JOHN ALLISON, of 52 Chancery Lane, London, in the County of
Middlesex, Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature of this invention which has
been communicated to me from abroad by Benjamin Y. Pippey, of 45 Leonard Street,
City of New York, United States of America, Merchant, and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement :---
This invention is designed as an improvement on Button Hole Attachments for
Sewing Machines, and it embraces, as an important auxiliary device, an attached
button-hole cutter of novel construction.
The object of this invention is to perfect a button-hole attachment by making
automatic in their action the devices that control the length of the button hole;
the devices that control the length of the button hole bars and thereby the
width of the button hole opening or center space; and also the devices that
change the direction of movement of the cloth clamp and its connections; and,
further, by substituting, in lieu of certain parts heretofore used, certain novel
mechanisms and combinations thereof whereby the attachment is greatly simplified
and made more complete, durable and effective; and further in affixing to the said
attachment, as an important auxiliary element thereof, a button hole cutter wherewith
the button hole may be cut either before or after it is stitched.
Reference is to be had to the accompanying drawings, forming part of the specifi-
cation, in which similar letters of reference indicate corresponding parts in all the
figures.
Figure 1. is a plan view of the Improved Button Hole Attachment.
Figure 2. shows the reverse of the clamp-carrying plate and its attachments,
connected with the reciprocating foot.
Figure 3. is a side elevation of the attachment with parts broken away to exhibit
other parts.
Figure 4. shows the reverse of the reciprocating foot and attachments.
Figure. 5. is a plan of a portion of the angle plate carrying in its grooved head the
cloth-clamp plate with attached worm rack and adjustable gauge plate for regulating
the length of the button holes.

page_text: .
Figure 6. is a front elevation of the carrier plate in position on the bottom plate.
Figure 7. is a front elevation of the button-hole attachment secured to the head of a
Wheeler & Wilson Sewing Machine.
Figure 8. is a plan of a portion of the reciprocating foot showing also the attached,
square-threaded feed worm which gives motion to the cloth-clamp plate; and also a
portion of the improved device for reversing the motion of the said worm.
Figure 9. is a side elevation of a portion of the reciprocating foot, feed lever and
feed cogwheel, and of the finger lever which operates to throw the pawl in and out of
connection with the feed cogwheel.
Figure 10. is a reverse side elevation of the same.
Figure 11. is a plan of the expanding lever and screw.
Figure 12. is a side elevation of a portion of the button hole attachment, showing
modifications of certain parts.
Figure 13. is a plan of same.
Figure 14. is a plan of the improved button-hole cutter in place on the button-
hole attachment; a portion only of said attachment being shown, and the cutter arm
carrying the cutting blade being moved aside out of operative position.
Figure 15. is a plan of the same, with cutting blade in operative position, having
parts removed to exhibit other parts.
Figure 16. is a side elevation showing the cutter block and blade in position for
the cutting of a button hole, and the relative position of a needle bar thereto when a
cut is to be made.
In the drawings (Figure 7.) A. represents the head of a Wheeler and Wilson
Sewing Machine; B, the needle bar thereof; and B' an arm, suitably secured at its
upper end, to the needle bar and having projecting from its lower end a stud a,
which engages in the fork of the actuating lever C, to impart to parts of the button
hole attachment the motion of said needle bar when the sewing machine is in
operation.
The bottom plate D. of the attachment is designed to be securely fastened to the
throat plate or back slide of a sewing machine by means of screws entered through
the screw holes a¹, or by being riveted to the throat plate if it be thereto attached.
This bottom plate is a new feature in improvements on button hole attachments,
and is adopted for the reason that it has been found best to have a constant and
unvarying support for the parts of the device; it is provided with a needle
hole a, and a slot a, for a button-hole cutter blade to pass into when cutting a button
hole.
a²,
The carrier plate E. also differs from all previous ones, and consists of a flat plate
having a broad opening extending from its front edge to about its center, and with
sides bent down at right angles; said sides having inward-extending lugs a²,
through which screws are entered to secure said plate to and parallel with the bottom
plate D, as best shown in Figure 6, so that the two plates together form as it were,
a rectangular box with open ends; and in the reverse face of the said plate E. are
two parallel, longitudinal grooves a³, a³, for the reciprocating foot F. to slide in-
These plates D. E. may be joined together in any other convenient manner without
departing from this invention.
The reciprocating foot. F. set in the grooves a³, of the carrier plate E.. has, in its
front end, a rectangular opening b, at the sides of which, on the reverse side of the
plate, are lugs b', 6', (Figures 4, 8, & 9,) in which is journaled a shaft 62, carrying a
pinion, and a square-threaded worm G, both rigidly connected with each other and
adapted to move loosely on their shaft.
Directly in rear of this worm G, and in the opening b, is pivoted, by its base, an
upward-extending finger lever c, (Figures 3, 7, 8, and 9.) which is designed to be
constantly engaged in the slotted lug c', of the pawl-actuating plate H, for the
purposes hereinafter set forth.
Also on the front of the reciprocating foot F. is pivoted an elbow lever c³, one arm
of which operates as a spring and has its free end resting on the base of the finger
lever c
in such a manner that, on change of position, it may cause the tip of said

page_text: lever to force the pawl-actuating plate H, in either direction to make the attached
feed pawl engage one or the other of its ends, as the case may be, in the feed
cogwheel I', hereinafter described, to revolve the same in one or the other direction,
or cause said plate H. to remain in a central position with its attached pawl
disengaged from said cogwheel.
:
From the extremety of the other arm of this elbow lever c², a pin c³, (best shown
in Figures 3, 4, 7, 8, and 9.) extends down through the reciprocating foot to make
contact with certain mechanism, hereinafter described, by which the said elbow lever
may be moved to operate the finger lever c.
On the front end of said reciprocating foot is also fixed a counter-friction spring c
(best seen in Figure 8,) which extends over and in contact with the pinion 63,
to prevent the reaction of said pinion 63, and worm G, for holding them in position
when the changes in the direction of the motion of the feed cog wheel I', are being
made.
The wheel-carrying plate I,-made narrow and with rounded rear end to corre-
spond with the opening in plate E.-is secured, by screws, to the reciprocating foot F.
on the top thereof, and has extending up from one edge a standard d', in which is
journaled an axle d³, carrying loosely set thereon, the feed cogwheel 11 that meshes
with the pinion 63 on the worm shaft 12; and said axle d carries, rigidly fixed on its
inner end, the feed lever 12, whose slotted rear end is adjustably held, by screw
stud d³, in contact with the actuating lever C.
?
The feed lever I', is centrally, bent at right angles for accommodation of other parts
of the mechanism, its forked end being again bent parallel with its front end, as best
shown in Figure 1. On the front end, near the aforesaid bend, is pivoted the double
feed pawl f, (Figures 1, 9, and 10,) adapted to engage with the teeth of the feed cog-
wheel I', and a pin f', extends at right angles from this pawl f, through a slot, in
the feed lever 12, into the tail of the pawl-actuating plate H, which latter is movably
secured -so that it may be moved by the lever c-on the face of the feed lever I', by
a screw f³ that passes through a slot in the said plate and into the said lever,
(Figures 3, and 9.).
From the lower and front end of the feed lever 12, a stud 5, (Figures 1, 3, 7, and 9,)
projects at right angles to engage in the jaws g, (Figures 3, and 7,) of a forked, double
pawl K, which is held in a horizontal position against the under side of the wheel-
carrying plate I. by resting on the face of the reciprocating foot F, and by the
projection of its jaws g, up through a slot g¹—-preferably dovetailed-(Figure 1,) in
the said wheel-carrying plate 1; and on the rear and rounded end of the wheel-carrying
plate 1, on the under side thereof, is pivoted, by pivot g², the horizontal, barring cog
wheel G, and pinion G2, which revolve in a horizontal plane.
This double pawl K, which is in the shape of a yoke with projecting handle,
(Figures 1, and 4,)-its jaws g, being on said handle at right angles thereto, has its
legs g³, g, made thin and flexible, so as to be capable of easily springing, and of such
length that they may make operative contact-one on each side of the cog wheel G
with the teeth thereof when desired; and to further secure the said pawl K, in central
position to hold its legs normally out of contact with the cog wheel teeth-a spring
tongue 9, is extended centrally from between the legs into a slot in a stud 96, which
is also secured in the under side of the said wheel-carrying plate I, said slot per-
mitting the said tongue to move back and forth in some degree for the matter of
adjustment.
On a shoulder of this yoke or double pawl K, is a round, projecting stud 97, the
function of which will be hereinafter set forth.
Also fixed on the under side of the wheel-carrying plate I, is a standard h,
(Figure 2, and 4,) on which is pivoted an expanding elbow lever ', whose long, eyed
arm is engaged over the pin c³, of the lever c², constructed to spring or yield slightly
under pressure, the functions of which will be hereinafter set forth.
A T-shaped angle plate L. is movably secured to the bottom of the reciprocating
foot F, by screws i. passing into said foot through slots, in said plate, as indicated
in Figure 2, and its head or front end L4, which is extended transversely to its body,

page_text: has parallel, dovetailed grooves i³, on and in which the cloth-clamp plate L², rests and
slides.
From the reverse side of the angle plate L, near an edge thereof, two studs 3 project
· downward for the short arm of the expanding lever h¹, to engage between, so that the
said lever may be operated by the movement of the said plate.
Also on the under side of the plate L, is secured a pinion rack, that is designed to
he engaged by the pinion G2 which projects down through a slot in the plate L, shown
best in Figure 2.
The cloth-clamp plate I, above alluded to, which is entered into the grooves of
the head L of the plate L. so that it may be moved to the right and left therein, has
an ellipsoidal or oblong slot or opening k, in its narrower end, over and upon which
the button holes to be stitched are designed to be placed.
A post ¹, fixed on said plate I³, has hinged on or to its top the cloth clamp L³,
which is further supported by a spiral spring, that permits the depression of said
clamp and operates to return it to its normal position when released by the cam
lever, which is used to force said clamp down for holding the material to be
stitched; said cam lever k³, is pivoted on the head of a standard k*, that rises from
the plate L, and passes up through the spring k², and clamp L³, (best shown in
Figures 1, and 7).
On the face of the clamp plate 12, and parallel therewith, is secured, by screws 1, a
flat rack M, having formed in its upper face square-edged, parallel teeth set at a
suitable angle for the meshing therewith of the worm G, by means of which the said
plate L, is moved lengthwise, to the right and left, during the operation of stitching
à button hole. The worm G, and the teeth of the rack M, are made square-edged to
provide against the possibility of the disengagement of the former from the latter
because of any resistance that may be offered to the right and left motion of the
plate L2, by the material held by the cloth clamp when a button hole is being
stitched. Were the said screw threads and teeth of the usual shape the liability of
the disengagement of the worm from the rack would be very great when operating on
heavy goods.
Also secured on the rear end of the plate L², and extending at right angles from the
inward edge thereof, is an upward and rearward-projecting stop finger 1, (Figures 1, 3, 5,
and 7,) whose functions will be hereinafter set forth.
By the outer edge of the rack M, on said plate L2, a measuring gauge M', is held,
by screw m, so that it may be moved in the direction of the length of said plate.
The slotted head of this gauge M', has a graduated scale marked on it, as shown,
whereby may be measured the desired lengths of button holes.
The shank of this gauge is carried beneath the rack M, as indicated in Figures 1, 5,
and 7, said rack having its under face, between its ends, cut away, as shown in
Figure 7, to afford room for the said gauge shank-and has on its extremety a stop-
finger m', which projects upward and rearward parallel with the finger, of the
plate L Said gauge may be set in any desired position to measure and determine
the length of a button hole by loosening the screw m, and moving the gauge so as to
increase or diminish, as the case may he, the space between the fixed, rigid finger 12,
and the adjustable finger m³, and then said gauge should be fixed rigidly in place by
turning down the screw m.
Rising from one side of the carrier plate E, near the rear end thereof, is a vertical
standard or frame N, herebefore used in button hole attachments, having a groove o,
for holding and guiding a gate N¹, which is provided with horizontal rod o¹, rigidly
fixed in it and extending through beyond each face thereof.
:
The outer end of this rod o', is designed to be engaged in an end of the actuating
lever C, that is pivoted on a standard P, fixed on the carrier plate and with the other
end of the said lever C, the stud a, of the arm B, (attached to the needle bar of the
sewing machine) makes connection, as herein before set forth, whereby the motion of
the said needle bar is transmitted to the said lever C, and by it to the feed lever I³,
through its connection therewith the adjustable stud d³.-These parts for transmitting
the motions of the needle bar to the button hole attachment are not new.

page_text: By adjusting this stud d³, to the one hand or the other, as may be desired, in the
slot of the lever C, and fork of the lever [ the limit of motion of the said lever I',
and, consequently of its attached feed pawl over the teeth of the feed cogwheel I
is determined; and, consequently the extent of the peripheral movement of the said
cog wheel and that of the pinion and worm b³, G, respectively. (with the former of
which the said cogwheel meshes) at each upward reciprocation of the needle bar.
And at the distance travelled by the cloth-clamp plate 12 (which holds the material
to be stitched,) between the downward strokes of the needle bar, is governed-through
the engagement of the worm G, in the rack M-by the distance covered by the
periphery of the cogwheel I, at each upward stroke of the needle bar, it follows that,
in stitching a button hole the distance between the stitches may be determined by the
adjustment of the said stud d³, to regulate the throw of the lever 1².
Adjustably secured by a screw p. on the reciprocating foot F, beneath a corre-
sponding and larger aperture p', in the carrier plate E, is a transversely slotted yoke Q,
such as has been before used, designed for engagement with the mechanism for moving
the said foot F, the shank of said yoke being extended rearward.
The reciprocating lever R, constructed and operated as in certain other button-hole
attachments, pivoted at one end on the carrier plate E, across the face thereof, is a
flattened plate having a central, longitudinal slot q, and on one end of said lever is
pivoted the vibrating latch R¹, provided with opposite lateral arms q¹.
A spring, (not shown,) secured in the under face of the lever R, has its free end
bearing up against the inferior points of said latch R', for the purpose of holding the
latter temporarily at whichever angle it may be moved by the downward motion of the
rod o', when the latter is forced down alternately upon the inclined planes of the head
of said latch.
A screw stud (not shown,) having its head engaged-so as to be movable therein---
in the slot of the yoke Q, and its shoulder in the slot of the reciprocating lever R,
with its threaded end projecting up through said lever and provided with a thumb
nutq, serves as the adjustable connection between the lover R, and the reciprocating
foot F.
These parts also have been used before in button-hole attachments.
By loosening this nut q' the operator is enabled to move the screw stud on which it
is fixed along the slots of the yoke Q, and lever R, and thereby adjust shorten or
lengthen the throw or reciprocation of the said foot F, which receives its motion
from said lever, and consequently shorten or lengthen the bite of the stitches.
When the parts are in the positions shown in Figures 1, and 7, with the cloth clamp
and clamp-carrying plate in the extreme forward position-to the extreme left of the
operator with the needle hole a, of the bottom plate just beneath the right hand end
of the opening k, of the plate L2, and the reciprocating foot and angle plate drawn in
or rearward to their full extent, as shown in Figures 1, and 7, and the device is
connected with a sewing machine substantially as shown in the latter figure, the
actuating lever C, moving up and down with the reciprocation of the neelle bar
transmits the motion to the feed lever 12, and thence, through the feed pawl f, to the
feed cogwheel 1, thence to the pinion 3, whereby the worm G, is revolved.
The said worm thus revolving and meshing in the rack M, imparts a lengthwise
motion to the clamp-carrying plate L' moving it to the right of the operator; the
actuating lever C, at the same time operates, through the gate N', and stud o¹
-reciprocating them up and down-upon the latch R', to cause the reciprocating
lever R, to reciprocate the foot F, which latter carries backward and forward with it,
at every reciprocation of the needle bar, the wheel-carrying. plate 1, the angle plate
and its extension L, L¹, respectively, and the clamp-carrying plate L2, and its
attachments.
In Figures 12, and 13, modifications of certain parts of the improved attachment
are shown, wherein the standard P, is dispensed with and in lieu thereof a bracket T,
is secured to a side of the carrier plate E, so as to extend out at right angles therefrom,
and in the bearings of this bracket is journaled a shaft U, to the inner end of which
is rigidly secured the actuating lever C, which is thereby supported in position. On

page_text: the outer end of this shaft U, there is held by set screw x, an arm V, whose free end
is slotted to engage over the stud (not shown,) of the lower needle-bar clamp, so that
the motion of the needle bar may be transmitted through the said arm V, to the
lever C.
.
In this modification also the frame N, and gate N1, are dispensed with, and the rod o¹
is fixed in the free end of the lever C, to operate on the latch R¹.
Also in this modification the feed lever [2 is made straight as shown, instead of
being bent at right angles, Thus, it is seen, that the construction of the device may
be in some respects simplified without detracting from its efficiency.
In operating this device we will, for instance, begin stitching at the middle of the
right hand button-hole bar or end.
The feed pawl, is disengaged from the feed cogwheel I¹ because the stop finger l²
is in contact with the pin of the elbow lever c, and has moved the spring arm of
said lever in such a position upon the base of the finger lever c, as to cause the tip of
said finger lover to move the pawl-carrying plate H, forward and to hold it there,
thereby disengaging both teeth of the feed pawl, from the feed cogwheel I, so that
the latter shall not. be, revolved, and, consequently, shall not, through the pinion and
worm, G, respectively, give any. motion to the clamp-carrying plate and its attached
clamp, in which latter is held the material to be stitched. At the same time the pin ca
of the elbow lever c², is in contact with the stud 9 of the pawl K, and swings said
pawl on its pivot sufficiently to make it engage one leg with the horizontal cog wheel G¹,
connected with which is the pinion G³.
Now this pinion G2 is connected, as aforesaid, with the rack it on the angle plate L
in such a position that three or four reciprocations of the feed lever 12,-whose stud
is engaged in the jaws g, of the pawl K, and consequent, reciprocating, longitudinal
motions of the said pawl (one leg of the said pawl being engaged in the teeth of the
cogwheel G¹) will cause said cogwheel G¹ to revolve slowly-one tooth for every
reciprocation of the needle bar, thus, through connection of pinion G² with cog
wheel G and rack *, causing the angle plate L and clamp-carrying plate L² to move
outward in the direction of the arrow Figure 1, until the rear stud 3, fixed in the
angle plate L, shall come in contact with the short arm of the expanding lever h¹.
The needle bar and needle operating all this time the right hand end of the button
hole is thus stitched or barred across from center of bar to inner side of button hole,
then, the plate L, still moving outward, the rear stud 3, pressing against the short
arm of the said lever, throws the long arm thereof, which is in contact with the
pin c³ of the elbow lever c², inward to the right of the operator, thus forcing the
spring end of said elbow lever forward on the base of the finger lever c, thereby
causing the tip of said lever c, to force the pawl-carrying plate H, forward, and
thereby bringing one tooth of the feed pawl fin engagement with the feed cog
wheel 1', and causing the latter to revolve, whereby the clamp-carrying plate L², and
attached clamp are moved, through pinion 63 and worm G, continuously to the right
until the stitching of the inner side of the button hole is accomplished.
The gauge M, at the same time being set to determine the length of the button
hole, as soon then as the inner side of the button hole is stitched the stop finger m¹ of
said gauge will, because of the movement, as above, of the plate L² to the right, make
contact with the pin c³ of the elbow lever c², thereby throwing the spring end of said
lever on the center of the base of the finger lever c, causing the latter, through the
medium of the plate H, to throw the feed pawl f. out of engagement with the feed
cogwheel 1 at the same time the said guage stop finger m³ presses against the
stud g of yoke pawl K, swinging the same on its pivot and thus forcing the
opposite leg thereof in engagement with the cog wheel G¹-The reciprocation of
the feed lever 12-connected by means of its pin with the yoke pawl handle-will
cause the said horizontal cog wheel G to revolve and move the angle plate L,
clamp-carrying plate L, and clamp L³ backward-opposite to the direction of the
arrow Figure. 1. through the medium of the pinion and rack, and during this
backward movement the barring of the forward end of the button hole is accomplished
by the continued reciprocation of the needle bar.

page_text: As this backward movement approaches its close the forward stud on the plate L.
is brought in contact with the short arm of the expanding lever h¹, thereby causing
the long arm thereof-through the medium of the pin c³ to swing the elbow lever
spring-arm from its position on the center of the base of the finger lever c² to one
side thereof, whereby said finger lever is moved to force the pawl-carrying plate H,
rearwood, opposite the direction of the arrow Figure 1, thus bringing the other tooth
of the feed pawl f. in contact with the feed cogwheel I' to reverse the former motion
thereof.
The pinion and worm G. now having their notions reversed by connection with
the moving cogwheel I', the clamp-carrying plate L2, with the rack in which said
worm is engaged, is thereby moved toward the left of the operator and the opposite or
outer edge of the button hole is stitched during this movement; then, when this is
done, the stop finger of the plate comes in contact with the pin c³, of the elbow
lever and throws the spring end of said lever on the center of the base of the finger
lever c, moving the latter to cause the feed pawl f. to become disengaged from the feed
cogwheel I, and at the same time the said stop finger presses against the yoke-pawl
stud, and thereby operates to arrange the parts of the device for the barring of the
other half of the right hand end of the button hole, in the same manner as is herein-
before described for the barring of the first half thereof.
It will be seen that to regulate the length of a button hole the operator will move
the gauge plate M' to the right or left, as the case may be, according to the length of
the hole desired or already cut in the cloth, and then secure it in place by turning
down the set screw m, thus bringing the stop finger m² of said gauge nearer to or
farther, as the case may be, from the stop finger 2 which is parallel with it, so that,
in the operation of the device the said finger m¹ will make earlier or later contact-
earlier for a short button hole and later for a longer one-with the pin c³ of the elbow
lever as the operation of stitching progresses, thereby arresting, as above set forth,
the motion of the feed cogwheel I sooner or later, and thereby stopping the length-
wise motion of the clamp plate and clamp, and, at the same time, operating, as
already described, to automatically adjust certain parts of the devico for the barring
of the button hole.
The stop-finger operates in the same manner and to the same purpose as the
finger m', its position however determining the beginning and end of the stitching of
the button hole.
In order to regulate the width of the button hole opening or center space between
the two rows of stitches there is devised a novel arrangement shown in Figures 1, 2,
and 11, wherein the short arm of the expanding lever is split, as shown at s¹, and a
tapering thumb screw S. introduced therein, by means of which said arm may be
slightly spread or expanded when desired.
Now, as has been hereinbefore set forth, when the button hole attachment is
operating for the barring of a button hole, the angle plate L, provided with studs ³
is moving forward or backward, as the case may be, and the contact of one of said
studs with the short arm of the lever ', which rests between them, causes said
lever h¹ to operate to stop the barring and begin or resume the side stitching of the
button hole.
It is evident then-the angle plate L. being in motion-that the sooner one of the
studs comes in contact with the lever h¹ the sooner will the barring be checked,
the shorter will the bar be and, consequently, the narrower the center space of the
button hole.
Were the distance to be travelled by a stud ³, before making contact with the
lever h', invariably the same all the button holes made by the attachment would have
center spaces of like width; To obviate this the studs are set so far apart that the
normal space allowed between the sides of the short arm of the lever and the said
studs is such that the longest bar desirable-and consequently the widest center
space may be made in the button hole before one of said studs shall make contact
with said lever; while by turning the set screw S, into the split end of said lever we

page_text: expand the latter as may be desired, so that the said studs may make earlier contact
and operate to make a shorter button hole bar and narrower center space.
Without departing from the invention a modification of this expanding lever may
be made; for instance, the short arm of said lever may be solid and externally
threaded and an externally-tapering, long thumb nut may be screwed thereon, so
that when said nut is turned up or down it will, in effect, laterally increase or
diminish, as the case may be, the size of the short arm of the said lever between the
studs ³.
Other modifications may be devised to enlarge or expand the short arm of this
lover, at will, but as they all must essentially be equivalents of those herein described
it is not deemed necessary to specify them.
The button hole cutter herein shown and described though it may perhaps, with
slight modification, be used independently of this button hole attachment, is, never-
theless, an essential element in a complete attachment that is designed for stitching
button holes before as well as after they are cut, for, in placing a cutter for cutting a
button hole after it is stitched, the utmost accuracy is requisite to avoid cutting the
stitches, and in no other way can this accuracy be secured as well as by making the
cutter a part of the button hole attachment, as herein.
The curved arm W. of the cutter is pivoted, at one end, on the cloth clamp plate' L'
so as to be capable of a lateral movement only, the forward limit of which movement
is determined by a stop a³ and the rearward limit by a stop a fixed in the said plate.
The free end of this arm W. is formed into a broad, strong head W₁ at right angles to
the arm itself, and in this head is formed a closed-ended, vertical slot be extending entirely
through it, as shown in dotted lines Figure 16. At the sides of this slot 66 the face
of the head W has dovetailed grooves 7, as shown in Figures 14, and 15, in which
slides the cutter block W that is held vertically movable in place by studs or screws 68
which hold the cutter blade to said block and pass into said slot 6-A side of the
cutter blade projects beyond the straight side of the head W, as shown in Figure 16,
so that the needle bar of the sewing machine may freely strike said blade on the top
when desired.
A spring secured by a stud or screw on the head W₁ and engaging beneath the
upper stud 8 of the cutter blade, holds the latter normally up in the position
shown in Figure 16. and serves to restore it to the same position after it has cut a
button hole.
From the rear, pivoted end of the arm W. a spiral spring X. extends rearward to a
stud de fixed in the cloth clamp plate L' where it is made fast; this spring X. is
designed to throw the cutter arm W, when it is liberated, forward from the normal
position shown in Figure 14. to the cutting position shown in Figure 15.
In rear of the arm W. a lever X' is pivoted on the cloth clamp plate so that its toe
shall be normally engaged in a notch 8 formed in the back of the lower end of the
said arm W, and a lever X is also pivoted on the plate I beneath the rack M, with
one end in contact with the free end of the lever X', and the other and lower end
normally engaged against a stud or stop d8 and extending laterally beyond it, as best
shown in Figure 14.
These levers X X' form a compound lever which, in its normal position, in com-
bination with the stud or stop da operates to hold the cutter-carrying arm W. aside in
a non-operative position.
On the front edge of the angle plate L. is secured a stud g in which is pivoted a
trigger X which may be raised by hand into a vertical position, as shown in
Figure 14. or be turned down into a horizontal position, as shown in Figure 15.
When the parts are in the positions shown in Figure 14, and the said button hole
attachment is in operation and the cloth clamp plate moving to the left and the button
hole is nearly stitched the operator turns the trigger X horizontally down, as shown
in Figure 15 the continued movement of the said cloth clamp plate to the left soon
brings the lower and free end of the lever X2 in contact with the elbow of the
trigger X, whereby the said lever X2 is turned on its pivot and made to swing the

page_text: lever X with the effect of forcing the latter to withdraw. its foe from out of
the notch of the arm W, then the spring X. instantly operates to throw the arm W.
forward to the position shown in Figure 15, with the cutter blade W³ exactly centrally
over the space between the rows of stitches which have been made by the operation
of the needle, and at the same instant the stitching of the button hole is completed ;
As soon as the cutter blade is in this position shown in Figure 15, the needle bar
- continuing its reciprocation-strikes upon the upper edge of the cutter blade and
forces it down through the cloth, thereby cutting the button hole.
Then the operator stops the sewing machine and the spring c raises the cutter
blade to the position shown in Figure 16; then he swings the arm W. aside to its
normal position and raises the trigger X vertically, as shown in Figure 14, preparatory
to stitching and cutting another button hole.
It will be seen that the operations of this cutter attachment are automatically con-
trolled and that, consequently, it may always operate with absolute precision without
cutting stitches on either edge of a button hole however narrow the latter may be.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I claim is ;
1st. A button-hole attachment for sewing machines containing the following
elements: A carrier plate supporting and guiding a reciprocating foot; a recipro-
cating foot supporting a single worm adapted for moving the cloth-clamp plate aud
its attachments to the right and left; means for reciprocating the reciprocating foot
and regulating the bite of the stitches; means for regulating the throw of the feed
lever and thereby, the distance between the stitches; devices for automatically con-
trolling the length of a button hole; devices for automatically controlling the
length of a button hole bar and, thereby, the width of the central opening of the
button hole, and devices for automatically changing the direction of movement of
the cloth-clamp plate and cloth clamp; all arranged and operating substantially as
herein shewn and described.
2nd. In a button hole attachment for sewing machines the combination of
mechanisms for regulating the bite of the stitches; mechanisms for regulating the
distance between the stitches; mechanisms for controlling the length of the button
hole; mechanisms for controlling the length of the button hole bars and consequent
width of the central opening of the button hole, and of mechanisms for arresting the
movements of the cloth-clamp plate and connections and for changing the direction
of their movements, substantially as herein shown and described.
3rd. In a button hole attachment for sewing machines, substantially as herein
specified, the combination with the mechanism for transmitting the motion of the
needle bar to the cloth-clanip plate, and with the cloth-clamp plate and a square-threaded
rack fixed thereon, of a reversable pinion and square-threaded worm set on a shaft, the
said worm and pinion receiving motion directly from the feed cogwheel and trans-
mitting it to the cloth-clamp plate through the medium of the rack, as set forth.
4th. In a button hole attachment for sewing machines, as a means for controlling
the length of a button hole whose ends are to be barred, mechanisms, substantially as
herein shown and described, whereby the lengthwise notions of the cloth-clamp plate
are automatically arrested and the barring mechanism simultaneously and auto-
matically set in operation, as set forth.
5th. In a button hole attachment for sewing machines, as a means for controlling
the length of the button hole bars and the consequent width of the central opening of
the button hole, the combination with mechanisms, substantially as herein shown and
described, for moving the cloth-clamp plate in and out in the direction of its width,
of a suitable adjusting device, as lever c² pin c³ and adjustable gauge finger m³, sub-
stantially as herein shown and described, for automatically arresting said inward or
outward movement of said cloth-clamp plate as soon as the button hole bar of the
predetermined length has been made, as set forth.
6th. In a button hole attachment for sewing machines the combination with an
adjustable gauge, provided with a stop finger, adapted and arranged to be set on the

page_text: attachment to fix or determine the length of the button hole to be stitched, of suitable
mechanisms, substantially as herein shown and described, as stop finger feed cog-
wheel I elbow lever c² and pin c³ carried by said lever,-whereby the lengthwise
motion of the cloth-clamp plate may be automatically arrested when the button hole
has been stitched its predetermined length on one side and be held so arrested until
the barring of an end of the button hole is completed, as set forth.
7th. In a button hole attachment for sewing machines provided with a cloth-clamp
plate arranged to be fed lengthwise by a worm, and provided with suitable mechanisms
for moving said plate transversely also, the combination with the worm-actuating
mechanism of a lever adapted and arranged to throw the said actuating mechanism
in and out of gear, the said lever being operated intermittently, through suitable
mechanism, to throw the worm-revolving mechanism out of gear by the lengthwise
movement of the said cloth-clamp plate and connections, and to throw the said worm-
revolving mechanism intermittently, through suitable mechanism, in gear by the
lateral movement of said cloth-clamp plate and connections, substantially as herein
shown and described.
8th. In a button hole attachment for sewing machines mechanisms, substantially
as herein shown and described, for automatically arresting the right and left move-
ments of the cloth-clamp plate, when a side of a button hole has been stitched,
combined with mechanisms, substantially as herein shown and described, for then
automatically moving the said plate in the opposite direction-in and out-to make
practicable the formation of the button hole bars, as set forth.
9th. In a button hole attachment for sewing machines the combination with
suitable devices for automatically arresting the inward and outward movement of
the cloth-clamp carrying plate when a button hole is barred, of a lever adjusted and
arranged to be moved by the inward or outward motion of said plate to operate,
through suitable devices, to cause said plate to move to the right or left, as the case
may be, as set forth.
10th. In a button hole attachment for sewing machines, as a means for regulating
the length of a button hole bar, the combination with suitable devices, substantially as
herein shown and described, for moving the cloth-clamp plate lengthwise and with
suitable devices, substantially as herein shown and described, for moving said plate
in and out, and with suitable devices, substantially as herein shown and described, for
arresting the in and out motions of said plate, of a lever capable of enlargement or
expansion and provided with an expanding screw, substantially as herein shown and
described, whereby said lever end may be enlarged that it may operate to sooner
arrest the inward or outward motion of the cloth-clamp plate, as set forth, and thereby
cause a shorter button hole to be made.
11th. The combination with the feed cogwheel and feed lever 12 of a double
paw provided with stud f', secured on said lever, a movable, pawl-carrying
plate H, à finger lever e, and an elbow lever c², all arranged and constructed to
operate substantially as herein shown and described, whereby, through suitable
mechanism, the rotation of the said cogwheel is intermittently reversed and arrested
when the button hole attachment is in operation, as set forth.
12th. In a button hole attachment for sewing machines, the combination with a
barring cogwheel G₁, pinion G2 and rack fixed on plate L, and clamp-carrying
plate L sliding on plate L, of a double pawl K, and suitable mechanism, substantially
as herein shown and described, whereby said pawl is caused to rotate said cogwheel
and pinion that the said plates L. L² may be moved in and out, substantially as and
for the purposes set forth."
13th. The combination with the elbow lever c² provided with pin c³; yoke pawl K,
provided with jaws g, and stud g'; cogwheel and pinion G₁ G2 respectively; rack
fixed on plate L; and feed lever 1, provided with stud f³, all constructed and
arranged substantially as herein shown and described, of the claimp-carrying plate L³,
provided with stop finger, whereby, when the said plate L, has moved the desired
distance to the left, the said devices are made to move the plates L, L², out and in
for the barring of the button hole, as set forth.

page_text: 14th. The combination with the elbow lever c² provided with pin c; yoke pawl K,
provided with jaws g, and stud 9 cogwheel and pinion G' G' respectively;
rack fixed on plate ; and feed lever 12 provided with stud f, all constructed
and arranged substantially as herein shown and described, of the gauge M¹ provided
with stop finger m', whereby, when the said plate L2 has moved the desired distance
to the right, the said devices are made to move the plates L L out and in for the
barring of the button hole, as set forth.
15th. In a button hole attachment for sewing machines the combination with the
clamp-carrying plate of a graduated gauge adjustably fixed thereon and provided with
a stop finger, substantially as herein shown and described, said gauge being adapted
to be adjusted to determine the length of a button hole and to automatically operate
on other mechanism to cause the stopping of the button hole edge stitching when
desired, as set forth.
16th. In a button hole attachment for sewing machines the combination with the
feed lever provided with projecting stud, and with the barring cogwheel of a horizontal,
forked, double pawl fixed between the two and adapted to transmit motion from the
former to the latter, whereby the barring mechanism is put in operation, as set forth.
17th. In a button hole attachment for sewing machines, substantially as herein
shown and described, the combination with the movable cloth-clamp plate of a button-
hole cutter secured thereon and adapted and arranged to be released from an
inoperative to an operative, cutting position by the automatic movement of said plate,
substantially as herein shown and described.
·
18th. In a button hole attachment for sewing machines provided with a movable
cloth-clamp plate of a button-hole cutter arm having a vertically-moveable cuiter
blade fixed in its head and adapted to be thrown horizontally into a cutting position,
when released, by means of a spring, substantially as herein shown and described.
19th. In a button hole attachment to a sewing machine the combination with the
spring-actuated cutter arm W, and compound, locking lever X1 X3 fixed on the laterally-
movable cloth-clamp plate, of an adjustable trigger X fixed on a relatively immovable
plate, substantially as herein shown and described, whereby the said compound lever
may, by contact, during a movement of the cloth-clamp plate, be caused to unlock
and release said arm, as set forth.
20th. The combination with the laterally-movable arm provided with cutter blade
adapted to be operated in a vertical plane, lever and stop adapted to hold said arm in
a locked or inoperative position, and spring adapted to throw said arm into an
operative position when unlocked, all fixed on the movable cloth-clamp plate, of a
hand-adjustable, unlocking trigger, substantially as herein shown and described, said
trigger being adjustable in fixed position to receive the contact of the locking lever
as the cloth-clamp plate moves in one direction and thereby to effect the unlocking of
the cutter arm, as set forth.