IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR IN APPARATUS CONNECTED THEREWITH IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BONNET AND CAP FRONTS, ROUCHES, AND MILLINERY, OR OTHER TRIMMINGS
Year: 1861

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Charles Grey Hill, of Commerce Square, High
Pavement, in the Town and County of the Town of Nottingham, Lace
Manufacturer, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR IN
APPARATUS CONNECTED THEREWITH IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BONNET AND
CAP FRONTS, ROUCHES, AND MILLINERY, OR OTHER TRIMMINGS."
Sealed the 28th March 1862, and dated the 2nd October 1861..
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Charles Grey Hill at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
2nd October 1861.
I, CHABLES GREY HILL, of Commerce Square, High Pavement, in the Town
and County of the Town of Nottingham, Lace Manufacturer, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY
OR IN APPARATUS CONNECTED THEREWITH IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BONNET AND CAP
FRONTS, ROUCHES, AND MILLINERY, OR OTHER TRIMMINGS," to be as follows:―
My Invention relates to improvements in machinery or in apparatus con-
nected therewith, for the manufacture of bonnet and cap fronts, and rouches,
and millinery, and other trimmings, whether made of silk or cotton quilling, or
other material, or ornamented with loops of ribbon or chenille, or with cord,
twists, gimps, or other ornaments inserted either within the plaits of the
goffered quilling, or on the outside thereof, and whether the front rouche or
other article is made of double or single quilling, or of other material, and

page_text: also whether plain or graduated in the plaits or on the edges thereof in any of
the various or numerous forms which may be produced by my machinery
represented in my Patents dated respectively the 22nd day of November 1859,
and the 18th day of July 1860, and respectively numbered 2645 and 1695, and
described in the Specifications filed by me in pursuance of the conditions of
the said Letters Patent.
The machinery or apparatus which I use in this my present Invention for
the making up of bonnet and cap fronts, rouches, and other articles is,
firstly, a pair of moveable guides similar in character to those described in
my Patent herein just before referred to, Numbered 2645, but having a
reversing screw at each end, inside whereof I place two strips of metal, having
suitable portions cut away so as to correspond. with the corrugations or plaits
of the goffered material. Or in lieu of such said strips of metal, I place two
or more rows of pins, and around those portions of the strips which are not
cut away, but which stand up.vertically to the guides, and form pillars; or
around the pins I pass the ribbon or other ornamenting material carrying the
ribbon from side to side of the guides, and around a pillar on each strip alter-
nately, or I pass by several pillars on each side according to the number of
bows or loops, and at such distance or distances apart as I require the ribbon
or other material. When I have passed the ornamenting material around the
pillars or pins on the strips, I place the goffered quilling or other material on
the top of the ribbon, and push or insert a corrugation or plait between the
lengths of ribbon as required, repeating the process until the guides are
filled from end to end. I then stretch a damped silk or cotton band or
thread on the top in the centre, or where required, and take the guides and
place them under the making-up press, as described in my Patent before
referred to, numbered 1695. I then press the ribbon, quilling, silk, or cotton
band or threads together, and cut off the waste when-only one front or rouche
is made, but if I use the quilling of such width that it will make up two
bonnet or cap fronts, or rouches, I cut the same in two parts, thus forming
two fronts or rouches.
Secondly, in making up bonnet or cap fronts, or rouches, I use two or more
strips or rows of pins as before described, but the pillars or pins stand so
high above the guides that the tops of them will lie a little above the quilling
or other material used for making the fronts or rouches, the quilling in this
case being passed round the pillars in the same way as the ribbon or other
ornamenting material; and as the quilling stands in a vertical position to the
guides, I pass the ribbon round in the same manner as the quilling, upon
which I place a damped silk or cotton band or threads, and press them together

page_text: as before described. In my first described method, the bows of ribbon
are placed in every alternate pleat of the goffered material; and to make fronts
or rouches having the bows in each plait, I take another pair of guides having
two or more strips of pillars or pins as before described, upon which I place
ribbon or other material, and I also place the second guides and ribbon upon
the first described in such position that the ribbon will lie within the pleats
not filled by the ribbon on the first guides. On the top of these I place a silk
or cotton band, or cotton threads, and press them in the manner before
described. I may mention that sometimes instead of passing the ribbon or
other material across from one or more sets of pillars or pins to the opposite
set or sets, I stretch a thread or cord central or otherwise between each set or
sets of pillars or pins, and give the ribbon or other material one or more revo-
lutions round such thread or cord; I then pass it round a pillar or pin on the
opposite side.
Thirdly, I sometimes prefer using a number of L-shaped pillars or pins,
having holes in one of the limbs in such wise that the pillars
or pins may
slide upon two or more horizontal rods, lying one or more on each side of the
guides; these said pillars or pins, although of the same shape, I use sometimes
with both limbs of the pins lying horizontally, and sometimes I use them with
one limb standing vertically to the guides, the holes in one sort of pin being
made at right angles to the holes in the other. Each sort I place at any
convenient distance apart until I have placed the ribbon or other ornamenting
material round them, when I push the same closer together, the distance at
which they then stand towards each other being regulated by washers or short
tubes lying between the pillars or pins, and sliding on the before-mentioned
horizontal rods.
Fourthly, instead of two or more rows of strips forming pillars, or two or
more rows of pins in the guides, I use two or more-horizontal rods the length
of the guides, round which I pass the ribbon or other trimming for orna-
menting the fronts or rouches, the rods being secured on the guides until the
front or rouche is made up, when the rods are easily released, and withdrawn
from the loops.
Fifthly, I use two or more rows of pillars or pins on each side of the guides
whether using one pair of guides only, or two pairs of guides.
Sixthly, when I use or employ a knife and groove making-up: machine, I use
guides having the pillars or pins on each side, and which are so arranged that
as the knife falls the pillars or pins will be depressed, while at the same time
the sides of the guides slightly approach each other to enable the pillars or
pins to slide easily out of the loops of ribbon or other material.

page_text: Seventhly, I also purpose to use guides similar to those last described, but
which are so hinged at each end that they may be folded together more or less
as may be required during the descent, and opened during the rise of the
knife.
Eighthly, I sometimes prefer using two or more rows of either of the above
described pillars or pins placed temporarily or permanently on or in a board,
and upon such pillars or pins I place the ribbon or other ornamenting mate-
rial, and the goffered or plain quilling, or other material as above described.
I then take a needle threaded with silk or cotton, and stitch them together
before the band or cotton is placed upon them, previous to placing the same
in the making-up machine described in my Patent Number 1695, herein-
before mentioned, or in the knife and groove making-up machine.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed
by the said Charles Grey Hill in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
2nd April 1862.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, CHARLES
GREY HILL, of Commerce Square, High Pavement, in the Town and County
of the Town of Nottingham, Lace Manufacturor, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Second day of October, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-one, in the twenty-fifth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me,
the said Charles Grey Hill, Her special licence that I, the said Charles
Grey Hill, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I,
the said Charles Grey Hill, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should
at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times
thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might
make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain
and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IM;
PROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR IN APPARATUS CONNECTED THEREWITH IN THE
MANUFACTURE OF BONNET AND CAP FRONTS, ROUCHES, AND MILLINERY, OR OTHER
TRIMMINGS," upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said Charles
Grey Hill, my executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under
my, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe
and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same
was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal

page_text: Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the
date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Charles Grey Hill; do hereby declare
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following.
statement thereof, reference being had to the accompanying Drawings, and
to the letters and figures marked thereon, that is to say :-
My Invention relates to improvements in machinery or in apparatus con-
nected therewith for the manufacture of bonnet and cap fronts, and rouches,
and millinery, and other trimmings, whether made of silk or cotton, quilling,
or other material, or whether ornamented with loops of ribbon or chenille, or
with cords, twists, gimps; or other ornament inserted either within the plaits
of the goffered quilling, or on the outside thereof, and whether the front,
rouche, or other article is made of double or single quillings, or of other
material; and also whether plain or graduated in the plaits, or on the edges
thereof, in any of the various or numerous forms which may be produced by
my machinery, secured under my Patents dated respectively the Twenty-
second day of November, 1859, and the Thirteenth day of July, 1860, and
respectively numbered 2645 and 1695, and. described in the Specifications.
filed by me in pursuance of the conditions of the said Letters Patent
The machinery or apparatus which I use in this my present Invention for:
the making up of bonnet and cap fronts, and rouches, is as follows:-Firstly,.
I employ a pair of moveable guides, similar in character to those described.in
the Specification of my previous Patent herein just. before referred to,
numbered 2645, but having a reversing screw at each end, between which
screws I place two strips of metal, having suitable portions cut away to
correspond with the corrugations or plaits of the goffered material; or in.lieu..
of such strips of metal, I place two or more rows of pins, and around those-
portions of the strips which are not cut away, but which stand up vertically to
the guides, and form pillars; or around the pins I pass the ribbon or other
ornamenting material carrying the ribbon from side to side of the guides, and.
around a pillar on each strip alternately; or I pass by several pillars on each.
side according to the number of bows or loops, and at such distance or
distances apart as I require the ribbon or other material.. When I have-
passed the ornamenting material around the pillars or pins on the strips, I
place the goffered, quilling, or other material on the top of the ribbon, and
push or insert à corrugation or plait between the lengths of ribbon as required.
repeating the process until the guides are filled from end to end. I then
stretch a damped silk or cotton band or thread on the top in the centre, or

page_text: where required, and take the guides and place them under the making-up
press, as described in the Specification of my Patent before referred to,
numbered 1695. I then press the ribbon, quilling, silk, or cotton band or
threads together, and cut off the waste, when only one front or rouche is
made; but if I use the quilling of such width that it will make up two bonnet
or cap fronts or rouches, I cut the same in two parts, thus forming two fronts
or rouches.
Secondly, in making up bonnet or cap fronts, or rouches, I use two or more
strips or rows of pins, as above described, but the pillars or pins stand so high
above the guides, that the tops of them will lie a little above the quilling or
other material used for making the fronts or rouches, the quilling in this case
being passed round the pillars in the same way as the ribbon or other
ornamenting material, and as the quilling stands in a vertical position to the
guides, I pass the ribbon round in the same manner as the quilling, upon
which I place a damped silk or cotton band, or threads, and press them
together, as before described. In my first described method the bows of
ribbon are placed in every alternate plait of the goffered material, and to make
fronts or rouches having the bows in each plait, I take another pair of guides
having two or more strips of pillars or pins, as before described, upon which I
place ribbon or other material; and I also place the second guides and ribbon
upon the first described, in such position that the ribbon will lie within the
plaits not filled by the ribbon on the first guides; on the top of these I place
a silk or cotton band, or cotton threads, and press them in the manner before
described. I may mention that sometimes instead of passing the ribbon or
other material across from one or more sets of pillars or pins to the opposite
set or sets, I stretch a thread or cord centrally or otherwise between each set
or sets of pillars or pins, and give the ribbon or other material one or more
revolutions round such thread or cord; I then pass it round a pillar or pin on
the opposite side.
Thirdly, I sometimes prefer using a number of L or angular shaped 'pillar's
or pins having holes in one of the limbs, in such wise that the pillars or pins
may slide upon two or more horizontal rods lying one or more on each side of
the guides; these said pillars or pins, although of the same shape, I use some-
times with both limbs of the pins lying horizontally, and sometimes I use
them with one limb standing vertically to the guides, the holes in one sort of
pin being made at right angles to the holes in the other. Each sort I place
at any convenient distance apart until I have placed the ribbon or other
ornamenting material round them, when I push the same closer together, the
distance at which they then stand towards each other being regulated by.

page_text: washers or short tubes lying between the pillars, or pins, and sliding on the
before-mentioned horizontal rods.
Fourthly, instead of two or more rows. of strips forming pillars, or two or
more rows of pins in the guides, I use two, or more horizontal rods the length
of the guides, round which I pass the ribbon or other, trimming for orna:
menting the fronts or rouches, the rods being secured on the guides, until the
front or rouche is made up, when the rods are easily released, and withdrawn
from the loops.
Fifthly, I use two or more rows of pillars or pins on each side of the guides;
whether using one pair of guides only or two pairs of guides.
Sixthly, when I use or employ a knife and groove making-up: machine, I
use guides having the pillars or pins on each side, which are' soi arranged that
as the knife falls the pillars or pins will be depressed, while at the same time
the sides of the guides slightly approach. each other to enable the pillars or
pins to slide easily out of the loops of ribbon. or other material.
Seventhly, I also propose to use guides similar to those last described, but
which are so hinged at each end that they may be folded together. more or
less as may be required during the descent, and opened during the rise of
the knife.
Eighthly, I also sometimes. prefer using two or more rows of either of the
above described pillars or pins, placed temporarily. or permanently on or in a
board, and upon such pillars or pins I place the ribbon or other ornamenting:
material, and the goffered or plain quilling, or other material, as above
described. I then take a needle threaded with silk or cotton, and stitch'
them together before the band or cotton is placed upon them, previous to
placing the same in the making-up machine, described in the Specification of
my Patent, No. 1695, herein-before mentioned, or in the knife and groove:
making-up machine.
Пaving thus stated the nature of the said Invention, I now proceed more:
particularly to describe the manner of performing the same, with reference to
the accompanying Drawings.
:
The machinery or apparatus which I use in this my present Invention for:
the making up. of bonnet and cap-fronts, and rouches, consists of,' firstly, a pair
of moveable guides, similar in character to those described in my. Patent,'
dated 22nd of November, 1859, and numbered 2645, but having a .reversing.
screw at each end marked A in the several Figures. herein-after. referred. to,i
between which screws I place two strips of metal B; having. suitable portions
cut away, so as to correspond with the corrugations or plaits of the goffered.
material; a portion of the lengths of these strips is shown in plan, Figure 1,

page_text: and side view Figure 2; or in lieu of such strips of metal, I place two or
more rows of pins C, shewn in plan at Figure 3, and in side view Figure 4,
and around those portions of the strips which are not cut away, but which
stand up vertically to the guides and form pillars, or around the pins I pass
the ribbon D or other ornamenting material, carrying the ribbon from side to
side of the guides, and around a pillar on each strip alternately; or I pass by
several pillars on each side, according to the number of bows or loops, and at
such distances apart as I may require the ribbon or other material to be
placed. When I have passed the ornamenting material around the pillars or
pins on the strips,. I place the goffered quilling or other material on the top of
the ribbon, and push or insert a corrugation or plait between the lengths of
ribbon as required, repeating the operation until the guides are filled from end
to end. I then stretch a damped silk or cotton band or threads on the top in
the centre, or where required, and take the guides and place them under the
making-up press, as described in the Specification of my former Patent, num-
bered 1695. I then press the ribbon, quilling, silk or cotton band, or threads.
together, and cut off the waste, when only one front or rouche is made; but if
I use the quilling of such a width that it will make up two bonnet or cap fronts,
or rouches, I cut the same in two parts, thereby forming two fronts or rouches.
When I make up cap fronts or rouches of quillings or other material having
the goffered plaits graduated of divers sizes, instead of using strips B. having
pieces cut out at regular distances, I use strips having pieces cut out at such
distances that the pieces left standing will correspond to the graduated goffers
of the material. And when I use pins C instead of the cut strips, I then place
the pins at such distances apart, the pins being of divers graduated sizes that
the size of the pins and the distances they stand apart will correspond to the
several goffers.of the material. And when I require a bonnet or cap front, or
rouche, of a graduated shape, the goffers or plaits of which are plain or
graduated, I make use of strips B or pins C bent or set to the shape of the
curved lines E, or any other convenient required curve (an example of which
is shown at Figure 5), upon which strips or pins.I wind the ribbon or other
material, and insert a plait of the goffered material between the lengths, and
proceed as before described. Figure 5 represents the method I employ when
making two fronts or rouches at once, E being the outer edge of the graduated
shape, F.the goffered quilling or other material, and G the cotton or silk
band or threads, the fronts being cut in two where the dotted line is shown,
one end of each being cut off at the lines marked H, both fronts will be of
the same shape at each end.
Secondly, in making up bonnet or cap fronts, or rouches, I use two or more

page_text: strips or rows of pins, as before described, but the pillars or pins stand up so
high above the guides that the tops of them will lie a little above the quilling
or other material used for making the fronts, the quilling in this case being
passed round the pillars C¹ (shown in plan at Figure 6, and in side view
Figure 7,) in the same way as the ribbon or other ornamenting material, the
quilling standing in a vertical position to the guides; I pass the ribbon round
in the same manner as the quilling, upon which I place a damped silk or
cotton band, or threads, and press them together, as before described.
Thirdly, I sometimes prefer using a number of L or angular shaped pillars
or pins C, having holes in one of the limbs in such wise that the pillars or
pins may slide upon two or more horizontal rods I, lying one, or more on each
side of the guides; these said pillars and pins, although of the same shape, I
use sometimes standing vertically, as shown in plan at Figure 8, and in section
Figure 11, and sometimes lying horizontally, as shown in plan Figure 9, and in
section at Figure 10. I place each sort at any convenient distance apart until
I have passed the ribbon or other ornamenting material round them, when I
push the same close together, the distance at which they then stand towards
each other is regulated by washers or short tubes K lying between the pillars
or pins, and sliding on the before-mentioned horizontal rods I.
Fourthly, instead of two or more rows of strips forming pillars, or two or
more rows of pins in the guides, I use two or more horizontal rods M,
Figure 12, of the same length as the guides, in which. the goffered material
or materials is or are placed, round which rods I pass. the ribbon or other
trimming for ornamenting the fronts or rouches; the ends of the rods lie in
sockets N, secured on the guides until the front or rouche is made up, when
the rods are easily released or withdrawn from the loops. Figure 12 represents
the rods M with one half of goffered quilling or other material lying within
the hollow of the rods M; one end of each such rod is made fast to the
guides, and the other end of the guides is free to be slipped off the rods the
average length shown. N are the sockets, in which the ends of the rods slide
at one end of the guides; O are two small bits of steel at each end of the
guides, which form clips for holding the ends of the damped silk, cotton, or
threads; and P are points upon which the ends of the ribbon or other
ornamenting material are placed. Figure 13 is a side view of one end of the
guides and a portion of the length of the rods M; Figures 14 and 15 are views
of the same, showing the rods M of two shapes in section.
Fifthly, I use two or more rows of pillars or pins on each side of the guides,
whether I use one pair of guides only, or two pairs of guides. Figure 16 is a
plan of portion of a set of pins lying horizontally, such as I use when the said

page_text: pins are placed at a certain set distance apart, according to the size of pin
used; Figure 17 is a sectional view, and Figure 18 a side view of the same.
Sixthly, I sometimes prefer using two or more rows of either of the above-
described pillars or pins, placed temporarily or permanently on or in a board,
and upon such pillars or pins I place the ribbon or other ornamental material,
and the goffered or plain quilling, or other material, as above described. I
then take a needle threaded with silk or cotton and stitch them together
before the band or cotton is placed upon them, previous to placing the same
in the making-up machine, described in the Specification of my Patent,
Number 1695, or in the knife and groove making-up machine.
Having now described the nature of my said Invention, and in what
manner the same may be performed, I would have it understood that I do not
confine myself to the precise details, so long as the peculiar character of my
Invention be retained; but that I claim the arrangement and combination
of parts constituting the improved apparatus, herein-before described and
represented in the accompanying Drawings.
In witness whereof, I, the said Charles Grey Hill, have hereunto set
hand and seal, this First day of April, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-two.
my
Witness,
GEO: JON. ROBINSON,
Patent Office,
Nottingham.
CHARLES GREY HILL. (L.S.)