IMPROVEMENTS IN WEAVING AND CUTTING VELVETS AND OTHER PILED FABRICS, AND IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF MACHINERY FOR SUCH PURPOSES, PART OF WHICH INVENTION IS ALSO APPLICABLE TO THE WEAVING OF OTHER KINDS OF FABRICS
Year: 1879

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to John Farran, of Manchester, in the County of Lancaster,
for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN WEAVING AND CUTTING VELVETS
AND OTHER PILED FABRICS, AND IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF MACHINERY FOR
SUCH PURPOSES, PART OF WHICH INVENTION IS ALSO APPLICABLE TO THE
WEAVING OF OTHER KINDS OF FABRICS."
Sealed the 5th December 1879, and dated the 15th September 1879.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said John Farran at the Office
of the Commissioners of Patents on the 15th September 1879.
"6
JOHN FARRAN, of Manchester, in the County of Lancaster. IMPROVEMENTS IN
WEAVING AND CUTTING VELVETS AND OTHER PILED FABRICS, AND IN THE CON-
STRUCTION OF MACHINERY FOR SUCH PURPOSES, PART OF WHICH INVENTION IS ALSO
APPLICABLE TO THE WEAVING OF OTHER KINDS OF FABRICS."
The principal object of this Invention is to weave a double cloth (that is, two.
distinct cloths connected together by pile threads) and to cut, split, or sever the
pile threads, so as to produce two perfect piled fabrics.
My improved method of effecting this object is, firstly, by a peculiar manner of
weaving the double cloth, and secondly by a peculiar manner of cutting or splitting
the two cloths by the severance of the pile threads which connect them together,.
the latter process being performed in a separate machine after the entire piece has
been woven.
The velvet may be woven with either a plain back or a twilled back to the
cloth.
For the sake of illustration I will here describe the weaving of a velvet with a
twilled back, say, with four healds to, each cloth, and one heald for the pile warp
which interweaves or interlaces the two.
I employ two warp beams, one for the ground or backs of the two cloths, and
one for the pile warp.
The pile warp heald may be in the middle or at the back or front of the other
healds, but I prefer to place the pile heald at the front of the others. I also
employ a fixed heald at the back of the others to keep the pile yarn in its place,
and divided from the other warp.

page_text: •
In weaving a two pick pile, supposing the front heald to be the pile heald and
the next four healds to be for the warp of the top cloth, and the last four healds to
be for the warp of the bottom cloth. For the first pick, the bottom cloth healds
will be down, or asunder from the top cloth healds (say about three inches lower),
and the pile heald will be raised. The first pick depresses the first heald of the
top cloth.
The second pick depresses the second heald and the pile heald. The
third pick raises the fifth heald, and keeps the pile heald down. The fourth pick
raises the sixth heald and the pile heald. The fifth pick depresses the third heald
and keeps the pile heald up. The sixth pick depresses the fourth heald and the
pile heald. The seventh pick raises the seventh heald and keeps the pile heald
down; and the eight pick raises the eighth heald and the pile heald, and so on in
Buccession.
The opening or "shedding" of the healds in the order above indicated is effected'
by means of a revolving chain composed of a number of links or sections of suitable
forms arranged in the required positions, so as to cause the necessary changes.
Each row of links is bolted together in the middle to keep the sections steady, and
they are coupled together at each end by means of pins so as to complete the circle
or chain of links. The chain is supported on a barrel or cylinder of the requisite
width, and the latter is caused to revolve by means of a toothed wheel on its axis
driven by a double-threaded worm on the crank shaft, or it may be driven by
bevil or other gearing.
Immediately above the chains on the cylinder are placed levers which may be
provided with bowls running on the sections or links of the chain, and these levers
are connected to the top or bottom jacks (for working the healds) by bands, rods,
or other convenient means, there being two levers to each heald, and the levers and
their connections being so arranged as to give a positive up and down motion to
the healds, so as to keep the two cloths well asunder.
This "shedding-motion" is also applicable to looms for weaving other kinds of
cloth, and in some cases where only one lever is required to each heald, then a
spring must be applied to the top or bottom jack to give the return movement of
the heald.
The "letting-off" of the pile warp is effected as follows:-The pile warp beam
is placed in a convenient position below the "let-off" or pile rollers. The pile
warp passes first over a roller which is suspended over two other rollers, then under
the bottom roller, next between the two rollers, and lastly over the top roller to
the fixed heald before mentioned.
I prefer to have one of the two rollers covered with cloth, and at one end of the
same, I key or fix a toothed wheel gearing with a worm which is driven by bevil
or other gear from the crank shaft. This worm is of a peculiar construction, so
that it only moves the wheel at one portion of its circumference, that is to say, the
greater portion of the thread (say three fourths) is at right angles to the axis, and
hence imparts no motion to the teeth of the wheel as it revolves, and only the
other portion (say one fourth) is at a more acute angle, and by this means an
intermittent forward motion is given to the pile warp, change wheels being
provided so as to increase or diminish the "let-off" as desired.
This "let-off" motion is also applicable to looms for weaving other kinds of cloth,
and either for one set of rollers or more as required.
The double cloth woven as above described is divided or split into two perfect
piled fabrics in a separate machine, which is constructed as follows:-
:-
The beam on which the cloth is wound is placed in a suitable frame, and the
double cloth is passed between two solid metal rollers which must be turned
perfectly true, and very carefully adjusted so as to be quite parallel and equi-
distant from each other at all points, being furnished with adjusting screws for that
purpose. The pile threads are severed by a knife between these two rollers, the
top cloth being carried up over the top roller and the bottom cloth down over the
bottom roller. Each cloth is carried round the back of a felt covered roller, and
round the front and over a card covered roller.
4

page_text: In front of these rollers are fixed two strong rigid horizontal bars or slides on
which moves the carriage to which the knife is attached, a to and fro motion being
given to this carriage by means of a strap or band passing round pulleys, and
having an alternate movement imparted to it by means of a crank or other equi-
valent device. On the carriage is mounted a lever at the outer end of which is
fixed the knife, so adjusted that its edge comes exactly between the circumferences
of the two central rollers so as to sever the pile threads exactly in the centre
between the top and bottom cloth. The knife only cuts in one direction, the lever
being then held in a position at right angles to the slides, but at the end of its
stroke it comes against a spring finger which throws it into a slightly diagonal
position, so as to withdraw the edge of the knife from the pile threads during the
return of the carriage to its first position, when the lever comes against another
spring finger, which throws it again into a cutting position, and so on alternately.
There is a spring latch which holds the lever firmly in each position. The edge
of the knife is kept sharp by passing over a Turkey stone or other suitable surface
at each stroke.
The feeding forward of the double cloth which takes place intermittently
during each return of the knife is effected by means of ratchet gearing which is
capable of adjustment, so as to advance the cloth either more or less at each cut as
may be desired; the said gearing being connected to the rollers round which the
several cloths pass, and being actuated from the main driving shaft of the machine.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said John Farran in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 15th March 1880.
JOHN FARRAN, of Manchester, in the County of Lancaster. “IMPROVEMENTS IN
WEAVING AND CUTTING VELVETS AND OTHER PILED FABRICS, AND IN THE CON-
STRUCTION OF MACHINERY FOR SUCH PURPOSES."
The principal object of this Invention is to weave a double cloth (that is, two
distinct cloths connected together by pile threads) and to cut, split, or sever the
pile threads, so as to produce two perfect piled fabrics.
My improved method of effecting this object is first by a peculiar manner of
weaving the double cloth; and secondly by a peculiar manner of cutting or
splitting the two cloths by the severance of the pile threads which connect them
together, the latter process being performed in a separate machine after the entire
piece has been woven.
The velvet may be woven with either a plain back, or a twilled back to the
cloth.
For the sake of illustration I will here describe the weaving of a velvet with a
twilled back, say, with four healds to each cloth, and one heald for the pile warp
which interweaves or or interlaces the two.
The improved method of weaving and cutting or splitting velvets will be readily
understood on reference to the annexed Drawings, and the following explanation
thereof.
On Sheet 1 of the Drawings Fig. 1 is a sectional elevation of so much of a
power loom, as is requisite to illustrate the method of weaving; Fig. is a front
view of the shedding motion; Fig. 3, an end view of the same; and Fig. 4,
detached views on a larger scale of the links or tappets, which I employ to form
the chain.
In Sheet 2 Fig. 5 illustrates the "letting off" motion for the pile warp; and
Fig. 6 is a side view of the letting off worm on a larger scale; Fig. 7 is a side
elevation; and Fig. 8, a section of the cutting or splitting machine, and Figs. 9, 10,
and 11, are separate views of the details thereof drawn to a larger scaler.
First, as regards the weaving, I employ two warp beams a, a², (Fig. 1, Sheet 1),
one a for the ground warp or backs of the two cloths, and the other a¹ for the pile
warp. The pile warp heald b, b, may be in the middle or at the back or front of
the other healds b¹, 62, 63, 64, 65, 66, 67, 68, but I prefer to place the pile heald at the
front of the others, as shown at Fig. 1.
I also employ a fixed heald c, c, at the back of the others to keep the pile yarn
in its place and divided from the other warp.
In weaving a "two-pick" pile, supposing the front heald b to be the pile heald,
and the next four healds b1, 62, 63, 6%, to be for the warp of the top cloth, and the
last four healds 65, 66, 67, 68, to be for the warp of the bottom cloth. For the first
pick the bottom cloth healds 63, 66, 67, 68, will be down or asunder from the top
cloth healds 61, 62, 63, 64, (say about three inches lower) and the pile heald b will
be raised. The first pick depresses the first heald 61 of the top cloth. This is the
position in which the healds are shown at Fig. 1. The second pick depresses the
second heald 62, and the pile heald b. The third pick raises the fifth cloth heald 65,
and keeps the pile heald 6 down. The fourth pick raises the heald 66, and the pile
heald b. The fifth pick depresses the heald 63, and keeps the pile heald 6 up. The
sixth pick depresses the heald 64 and the pile heald b. The seventh pick raises
the heald b', and keeps the pile heald b down; and the eighth pick raises the
heald 68, and the pile heald b; and so on in succession.
The opening or shedding of the healds in the order above indicated is effected
by means of a revolving chain d, d, (see Figs. 2, 3, and 4), composed of a number
of links or sections of suitable forms arranged in the required positions, so as to

page_text: cause the requisite changes. Each row of links d, d,, is bolted together in the
middle, so as to keep the sections steady, and they are coupled together at each
end by means of pins, so as to complete the circle or chain of links. The chain is.
supported upon a barrel or cylinder e, e, of the requisite width, and the latter is
caused to revolve by means of a toothed wheel f, f, on its axis driven by a double
threaded worm g, g, on the crank shaft h, h, or it may be driven by bevil or other
gearing. Immediately above the chains d, d, on the cylinder e, e, are placed
levers i, i, which may be provided with bowls running on the sections or links d, d,
of the chain, and these levers are connected to the top or bottom "jacks" k, k¹,
(for working the healds) by bands, rods, or other convenient means there being
two levers to each heald, and the levers and their connections being so arranged as
to give a positive up and down motion to the healds, so as to keep the two cloths
well asunder.
This "shedding motion" is also applicable to looms for weaving other kinds of
cloth, and in some cases, when only one lever is required to each heald, then a
spring must be applied to the top or bottom "jack" to give the return movement
of the heald.
The "letting off" of the pile warp is effected as follows (see Figs. 5 and 6) :-
The pile warp beam a¹ is placed in a convenient position below the "let off" or pile
rollers, 1, (see also Fig. 1). The pile warp first passes over a roller m (which is
suspended from the top roller by two links), then under the bottom roller ¹, next
between the two rollers, and lastly over the top roller to the fixed heald c, c,
before mentioned. I prefer to have the rollers covered with cloth, and at one
end of the same I key or fix a toothed wheel n driven by a wheel n' gearing
with a worm o, which is driven by worm or other from the crank shaft. This
worm o (see Fig. 6, enlarged view) is of a peculiar construction, so that it only
moves the wheel n at one portion of its circumference, that is to say, the greater
portion of the thread (say three fourths) is at right angles to the axis, and hence
imparts no motion to the teeth of the wheel n' as it revolves, and only the other
portion (say one fourth) is at a more acute angle, and by this means an inter-
mittent forward motion is given to the pile warp; change wheels being provided
so as to increase or diminish the "let off" as desired; or the cloth covered roller
may be driven by a ratchet actuated by the movement of the slay, or in any other
convenient manner.
This "let off" motion is also applicable to looms for weaving other kinds of cloth,
and either for one set of rollers or more as required.
The double cloth woven as above described is now to be divided or split into
two perfect piled fabrics in a separate machine which is constructed as follows:-
(see Figs. 7, 8, 9, 10 and 11, Sheet 2).
The beam p on which the double cloth g is wound is placed in a suitable frame,
and the double cloth q is passed between two solid metal rollers r, rt, which must
be turned perfectly true, and very carefully adjusted so as to be quite parallel and
equidistant from each other at all points, being furnished with adjusting screws 8, 8¹,
for that purpose (see also detached views Figs. 9 and 10).
The pile threads connecting the two cloths are severed by a knife t, t, (see also
plan view, Fig. 11), between these two rollers, the top cloth q¹ being carried up
over the top roller r, and the bottom cloth q² down over the bottom roller r¹.
Each cloth is carried round the back of a felt covered roller u, u, and round the
front and over a card covered roller v, v.
In front of these rollers are fixed two strong rigid horizontal bars or slides w, w,
on which moves the carriage x, x, to which the knife t, t, is attached, a to and fro
motion being given to this carriage by means of a strap or band y, y, passing
round pulleys 2, 2, and having an alternate movement imparted thereto by the
crank arm 1, 1, and spur gearing 2, 2, or other equivalent device. On the carriage
c, ac, is mounted a lever 3, 3, at the outer end of which is fixed the knife t, so ad-
justed that its edge comes exactly between the circumferences of the two central
rollers rand, so as to sever the pile threads exactly in the centre between the

page_text: top cloth q', and bottom cloth q². The knife t cuts only in one direction, the
lever 3 being then held in a position at right angles to the slides w, w (as shown at
Fig. 11), but at the end of its stroke it comes against a spring finger 4, 4, which
throws it into a slightly diagonal position (as shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 11),
so as to withdraw the edge of the knife from the pile threads during the return of
the carriage x, x, to its first position, when it comes against another spring finger
41, 41, which throws it again into cutting position, and so on alternately..
There is a spring latch 5, 5, which holds the lever 3, 3, firmly in each position.
The edge of the knife t is kept sharp by passing over a Turkey stone or other
surfaces 6, 6, at each stroke.
The feeding forward of the double cloth q which takes place intermittently
during each return of the knife is effected by means of ratchet gearing 7, 7, which
is capable of adjustment so as to advance the cloth either more or less at each cut
as may be desired, the said gearing being connected to the card covered rollers v, v,
round which the several cloths pass, and being actuated from the main driving
shaft 8, 8, of the machine.
In witness whereof, I, the said John Farran, have hereunto set my hand and
seal, this Twelfth day of March, in the year of our Lord One thousand
eight hundred and eighty.
JOHN FARRAN. (LS.)
2