Improvements in the Production of Weaving Diagrams.
Year: 1899

page_text: Improvements in the Production of Weaving Diagrams.
We, JAN SZCZEPANIK, Engineer, and LUDWIG KLEINBERG, Gentleman, both
of III Engargasse 12, Vienna, Austria, do hereby declare the nature of this
invention to be as follows;
-
It is known to persons skilled in the art of weaving that by means of different
thread crossings all shades from white to black can be produced by means of
a white warp and black weft or vice versa. By mixing other colours for example,
blue, yellow, or red-with white weft the same shading effects can be attained in
those colours.
By means of known photographic processes (for example, that of Joly) pictures
or images in natural colours can be produced by decomposing the picture to be
ne produced, into lines of three different colours which follow one another in a
particular order for instance, in the succession-blue, yellow, and red. The
decomposition of the colours into these three primary colours is at present possible
only with the aid of colour filters.
If it is desired to weave a picture in silk in natural colours it is necessary
to use, for example, for a white or black warp, those wefts whose colours com-
plement one another to form white. For each of these three primary colours
a separate weft or warp thread of the required shade must be rendered conspicuous
by a peculiar thread-crossing or different thread crossings.
A shaded picture can be obtained by exhibiting the combined action of all
colours in their shades by means of different thread-crossings and the more
strongly appearing relief of all colours by means of the combination of black and
white lines. Such a pattern or diagram can therefore only be woven in one
colour. If it is desired, however, to exhibit or indicate on this pattern or diagram
the required three primary colours in differently coloured weft and warp threads
or combined it is first necessary to produce three negatives or diapositive" or
transparencies (hereinafter called diapositives) which may be patterned either by
hand or by means of photography, whilst the different light and shade portion's
(light intensities) of the several colours are expressed or denoted according to
several negatives or positives by means of different thread-crossings or indications
thereof. From the three negatives or diapositives which are produced in known
manner by means of colour filters (as for three-colour printing), there is made
for each first line an impression, that is to say, for example, first for red, where-
upon the second negative or diapositive is copied for yellow, and finally
the third negative or diapositive is copied for blue. In this manner the
picture is decomposed in the diagram-for example into three lines--that is
to say, three wefts-whilst each line (each weft thread) corresponds to a primary
colour
Just as the present three-colour printing requires for known optical reasons a
fourth printing-riz., a black one-in order that the pictures may be very dis-
tinct, so in the present case also certain portions can be expressed more strongly

page_text: by means of a black warp or a black weft. The colours of the weft or of the
warp must, of course, be examined by means of a spectroscope, so that they may
harmonize with the colour filters used.
For making the pattern of the negatives or diapositives, diaphragms or shutters
may also be used whose opening is divided into three portions of which the upper
opening copies for the first weft or for the first warp, the second opening copies
for the second, and the third opening copies for the third weft or warp.
It is evident that all these three negatives or diapositives must completely cover
or agree with one another when patterning or diagram-making. As this may
entail some difficulty the process can be simplified by making a special diagram
or special paper for each single negative or diapositive i.e. for each single colour.
Accordingly when punching the cards in accordance with all three diagrams
the cards must be fastened in the order in which the wefts are to follow one
another.
The fineness of the picture will be always dependent on the closeness of the
threads. As the warp can be much closer and finer than the weft it is better
to employ all three colours in the warp. The order of the warp will then be
first a blue, then a yellow, and then a red warp thread. All three warps can
be treated as a single warp and the same thread-crossing can be always used for
all three warps.
With a certain thread-crossing it happens that at one crossing
all three threads appear simultaneously then again only two and sometimes even
only one. The remaining warp-threads are covered in this case by a white weft.
This kind of fabric imitates most accurately the method of Joly's colour photo-
graphy.
This method is not only suitable for shaded pictures but also for flat and
multicoloured ornamentation and can be used with advantage, not only in silk
picture weaving, but also in other branches of the textile industry, as instead
of the cumbrous process of producing the colour by means of several multi-
coloured wefts, the present method is employed, by means of which not only the
same result is attained in a simpler and cheaper manner, but also a more artistic
colour effect can be obtained.
improvements in the Production of Weaving Diagrams.
We, JAN SZCZEPANIK, Engineer, and LUDWIG KLEINBERG, Gentleman, both
of III Ungargasse 12, Vienna, Austria, do hereby declare the nature of this
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement; -
It is known to persons skilled in the art of weaving that by means of different
thread crossings all shades from white to black can be produced with white
warp and black weft and rice versa. By mixing another colour-for example,
blue, yellow, or red--with white weft the same shading effects can be attained
in that colour.
By means of known photographic processes (for example, that of Joly) pictures
that will have the appearance of being in natural colours can be produced by
constructing them of sets of lines of three different colours which follow one
another in a particular order-for instance, in the succession: blue, yellow, and

page_text: red. The decomposition of the natural colours into these three primary colours
is at present possible only with the aid of colour filters.
If it is desired to weave a picture in silk so as to have the appearance of being
in natural colours it is necessary to use for a white or black warp (or weft)
three wefts (or warps) whose colours complement one another to form white.
For each of these three primary colours a separate weft (or warp) thread of the
required shade must be rendered conspicuous by a suitable thread-crossing.
A shaded picture can be obtained by exhibiting the combined action of all
colours in their shades by means of different thread-crossings and the more
strongly appearing relief of all colours by means of the combination of black and
white lines. According to the known methods such a picture can be woven
only in one colour besides the ground colour. If it is desired, however, to
exhibit in a woven picture the required three primary colours or combinations
thereof, in differently coloured weft and warp threads, it is first necessary to
produce three translucent negatives or positives from which the diagram (or
diagrams) is (or are) made either by hand or by means of photography, different
shades of the several colours being denoted according to the several negatives
or positives by indications of different thread-crossings. From the three negatives
or positives, which are produced in a known manner by means of colour filters
(as for three-colour printing), the first-line indications are made in the diagram-
that is to say, for example, the indications for red-whereupon the second nega-
tive or
positive is followed for yellow, and finally the third negative or positive
is followed for blue. In this manner the picture is decomposed in the diagram
into sets of three lines indicating three wefts, each of which corresponds to a
primary colour.
Just as the present three-colour printing requires for known optical reasons a
fourth printing—riz., a black one in order that the pictures may be very dis-
tinct, so in the present case also certain portions can be accentuated by means
of a black warp or a black weft. The colours of the wefts or warps must, of
course, be examined by means of a spectroscope, so that they may be caused
to harmonize with the colour filters used.
For obtaining diagrams from the translucent negatives or positives, dia-
phragms may be used the opening of each of which is divided into three portions,
of which the top portion copies for the first weft or for the first warp, the second
portion copies for the second, and the third portion copies for the third weft
or warp. The method of obtaining a diagram by means of said diaphragms
may be as described in British Letters Patents Nos. 29230 of 1896 & No. 16484
of 1898.
It is evident that all these three negatives or positives must completely agree
with one another when diagram-making-i.e., they must have their images
exactly superposed when making the diagram. As this may entail some diffi-
culty the process can be simplified by making a special diagram on special
paper for each single negative or positive-i.e., for each single colour. When
punching the cards in accordance with all three diagrams the cards must, of
course, then be fastened together in the order in which the wefts are to follow
one another.
The fineness of the picture will be always dependent on the closeness of the
threads. As the warp can be much closer and finer than the weft it is better
to employ all three colours in the warp. The order of the warn will then be
that of first a blue, then a yellow, and then a red warp thread. The accom-
panying drawing represents by way of example a diagram according to the
present invention, for weaving multi-coloured pictures having the appearance
of being in natural colours. In the drawing, several groups of three warp threads
corresponding to the three primary colours are indicated respectively at I, II,
and III: the blue warp thread 1 of each group is indicated by shading slanting
downwards from the left hand, the yellow warp thread 2 by horizontal shading.
and the red warp threads by shading slanting downwards from the right hand.

page_text: All three warps can be treated as a single warp and the same thread-crossing
can be always used for all three warps. With a certain thread-crossing it
happens that at one crossing all three threads appear simultanecusly, then again
only two, and sometimes even only one. The remaining warp-threads are
covered in this case by a white weft, the crossing points of which are indicated
by a black dot in the middle of the corresponding division of the diagram.
The crossing points of the black weft threads, which, as herein before mentioned,
are intended for the purpose of accentuating certain portions of the picture, are
indicated in the drawing by the letters. This kind of fabric imitates most
accurately the method of Joly's colour photography.
This method is suitable not only for shaded pictures but also for flat and
multicoloured ornamentation and can be used with advantage, not only in silk
picture weaving, but also in other branches of the textile industry, as instead
of the cumbrous process of producing the colour by means of several multi-
coloured wefts, the present method will be employed, by means of which not
only the same result is attained in a simpler and cheaper manner, but also a more
artistic colour effect can be obtained.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what
we claim is :-
1. A method for producing diagrams for weaving multicoloured pictures and
ornaments having the appearance of being in natural colours, according to which
such a diagram, made either by hand or by photography by means of three
negatives or positives produced in a known manner by colour filters such as used
in three-colour printing, is constructed of sets of three lines corresponding to
the several warp or weft threads, whether or not the different shades of the several
colours are indicated in the diagram according to the said negatives or positives
by indications of different thread-crossings.
2. A modification of the method mentioned in the preceding claim consisting
in making a special diagram on special paper for each negative-i.e., for each
one of the three colours.
Dated this 30th day of May 1900
F. WISE HOWORTH,
46, Lincoln's Inn Fields, London, W.C.,
Agent for the Applicants.