Improvements in Shoe Sewing Machines.
Year: 1889

page_text: Date of Application, 20th Aug., 1889-Accepted, 9th Nov., 1889
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Shoe Sewing Machines.
I, ANDREW EPPLER Junior, of 112 South Street, Boston, in the County of Suffolk
and State of Massachusetts, United States of America, gentleman, do hereby declare
the nature of my invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SHOE SEWING MACHINES," and
in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This invention relates to sewing machines having curved oscillating needles, and
adapted chiefly for stitching together the soles and uppers of shoes which are turned
inside out.
The invention has for its object to provide a machine of this class with a cast off
having a yielding movement, whereby it is enabled to conform to variations in the
thickness of the upper of the shoe. To this end the invention consists in the improve-
ments which I will now proceed to describe and claim.
Of the accompanying drawings forming a part of this specification, Figure 1
represents a side elevation of a machine having my improvements. Fig. 2 represents
an end view of the same. Fig. 3 represents an elevation of the opposite side. Fig. 4
represents a section on line a a, Fig. 5 with the plate shewn in broken elevation
Fig. 5 represents a rear view of the cast off and its operating mechanism. Fig. 6
represents a sectional view of an upper and sole, showing the channel gauge, back
gauge, needle and cast off in the positions they occupy when the needle is advancing
to enter the work. Fig. 7 represents a similar view after the needle has entered
the work.
The same letters of reference indicate the same parts in all the figures.
a represents the fixed channel gauge, which is attached to a fixed arm b, the latter
being suitably secured to the supporting pedestal of the machine. The lower end
of the channel gauge is pointed and formed to enter the channel in the sole, said
gauge standing close to and at one side of the path of the needle c.
d represents the looper, which is oscillated about the needle when the latter is
advanced and engages the thread with the barb of the needle.
e represents the
back gauge, which is attached to a lever fand is formed to bear on the outer surface
of the turned upper and to press the outer side of the channel against the channel
gauge while the needle is penetrating the upper and the "between substance," as
the portion of the sole between its outer edge and the bottom of the channel is
termed.
The back gauge is moved away from the channel gauge to release the work after
the formation of each stitch, and is moved forward to co-operate with the channel
gauge in holding the work while the needle is entering and withdrawing from
the work.
a represents the cast off, which is formed as usual as a sheath or guard through
which the needle passes.
The cast off is moved forward while the needle is
penetrating the work until it (the cast off) bears against the outer surface of the
upper. The cast off then remains at rest until the needle has withdrawn from the
work enough to bring its hook or barb within the cast off, the latter then being
moved back with the needle.
The mechanism which operates the needle, looper and back gauge forms no part
of my present invention and, as said mechanisin is fully shown and described in
Letters Patent of the United States No. 337,291, granted to Edwin Adams March 2,
1886, I do not here describe nor show it in details, my present invention being
confined to the means hereinafter described for operating and giving a yielding
pressure to the cast off.
The operation of the parts as a whole is the same as described in the Letters Patent
above referred to.

page_text: In carrying out my present invention I provide the cast off with a yielding
movement whereby it may conform to variations in the thickness of the material
between it and the channel gauge, such variations being chiefly caused by the
heel stiffener at the heel portion of the upper and the cap at the toe portion,
said stiffener and cap increasing the thickness of the material at these points.
Heretofore the cast off in this class of machines has been rigid and unyielding with
relation to the channel gauge when in contact with the upper during the formation
of the stitch, so that an increase in the thickness of the interposed material will
cause such an increase of pressure of the cast off against the material, as to require
greater power to give the needle its lateral work feeding movement than would be
required if the cast off were yielding, the work being fed by a lateral movement of
the needle while it is in the work and while the cast off is pressing the "between
substance towards the channel gauge. To give the cast off the described yielding
movement I employ the devices which I will now describe.
"
represents the arm on which the cast off is formed. Said arm is attached to a
rockshaft, which passes through the hub of the oscillating needle arm and is
adapted to rock or oscillate independently in said hub. To one end of said shaft is
attached a short arm j, the outer end of which is connected by a rod k with a slide
which is fitted to slide vertically in a guide or way in the oscillating head m which
carries the needle, back gauge, looper, and cast off (as in the patent above named).
Said slide has a trundle roll n, which enters a cam groove o in a wheel or disc p on
the driving shaft g, said cam being formed to vertically reciprocate the slide and
thus oscillate the rock shaft i and the cast off carrying arm h, the connecting rod k
and arm converting the reciprocating movements of the slide into oscillating
movements of the rock shaft and cast off arm. The cam groove o is timed to give
the cast off the movements above described, that is to say, when the needle is
advancing the cast off also advances at a slower rate than the needle until it bears
against the outer side of the upper, and is then held at rest until the needle has
partially withdrawn and then moves back with the needle.
represents a spiral spring, which is coiled upon a studs affixed to the swing
head and has one end engaged with a plate t while its other end bears with a
downward pressure on an arm u, which is pivoted at one end on said stud and bears
at its other end on the upper end of the connecting rod k. The spring therefore
exerts a downward pressure through the arm u on the connecting rod k and through
the latter on the slide 1, said pressure being also imparted to the cast off through the
rockshaft i.
The described pressure holds the trundle roll n of the slide against the outer
side of the cam groove o. That part of said groove which co-operates with said
roll while the cast off is bearing against the upper is made considerably wider than
the roll n, as shown in Figures 4 and 5, where the wider portion is indicated by
the numerals 2, 3. The increased width of the cam at the point referred to enables
the cast off to yield or move back from the channel gauge a against the pressure
of the spring, the roll n and all the described intermediate devices yielding with
the cast off, the spring holding the cast off with a yielding pressure against the
upper through said devices.
The cam groove o, excepting at the part 2, 3, is preferably formed to fit the
roll n accurately, so that the cast off will be positively moved by said groove at all
times excepting when it is bearing against the upper. It is obvious however that
the yielding capacity of the cast off may be continuous without departing from the
spirit of my invention, as it would be if the cam groove were widened throughout
its entire extent.
2°
The plate t to which one end of the spring is attached is provided with a squared
or polygonal head a', so that it may be turned with a wrench or other tool on the
studs to vary the tension of the spring r. Said plate is held at any point to which
it may be turned by a bolt 6 passed through one of a series of holes c¹ in the plate t
and inserted in a socket in the head m.
It will be observed that the channel gauge and the oscillating looper are arranged

page_text: at one side of the "between substance," and the back gauge and yielding cast off
at the other side. This is a very advantageous arrangement as will be readily
seen.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is:
1st. In a curved needle sewing machine, the combination with the needle, looper
and work holding devices, of the cast off, the rock shaft supporting the same, a
spring and devices connecting the same and the said rock shaft whereby a yielding
pressure is imparted to said rock shaft and cast off in one direction, and means
substantially as described, whereby the rock shaft and cast off are positively impelled
in the opposite direction, as set forth.
2nd. In a curved needle sewing machine, the combination with the needle, looper
and work holding devices, of the cast off, the rock shaft supporting the same, a
cam as o, the slide reciprocated by said cam, means for connecting said slide and
rockshaft, and a spring and devices connecting the same with the rock shaft
whereby a yielding pressure is imparted to said slide, rock shaft and cast off, as
set forth.
3rd. In a curved needle sewing machine, the combination with the needle, looper
and work holding devices, of the cast off, the rock shaft i supporting the same,
the cam o, the slide 1 engaged with said cam, the rod k connecting the slide with
an arm on the rock shaft, and a spring and devices connecting the same with
the rock shaft whereby a yielding pressure is exerted on the slide, the cast off
and the intermediate devices, as set forth.
4th. In a curved needle sewing machine, the combination with the needle, looper
and work holding devices, of the cast off, the rock shaft i supporting the same,
the cam 0,
the slide engaged with said cam, the rod connecting the slide with
an arm on the rock shalt, a pivoted arm u bearing at its free end on the rod k,
and a spring bearing upon the arm u whereby said arm is pressed downwardly
upon the rod, as set forth.
5th. The combination with the needle, looper and work holding devices, of the
cast off, a rock shaft upon which it is mounted, a cam, and loose connections
between the rock shaft and cam, a spring interposed in such loose connections to
impart a yielding pressure to the rock shaft and cast off, a studs supporting the
spring, and the plate t engaged with one end of the spring and provided with
means for holding it in different positions, substantially as set forth.
6th. The combination of the fixed channel gauge and the oscillating looper
arranged at one side of the material, and the curved needle, the back gauge and
the oscillating cast off arranged on the other side, loose connections for said cast
off and its source of motion, and a spring interposed therein to impart to said
needle a yielding pressure toward the point of the needle, substantially as and for
the purposes set forth.
Dated this 20th day of Angust A D 1889
ANDREW EPPLER JR.
Hughes, Eli & Hughes,
76, Chancery Lane, London, W.C., Agents for the Applicant.