Improvements in the Manufacture of Fabric especially suitable for use as a Substitute for or as an Imitation of Brocade.
Year: 1891

page_text: Date of Application, 19th Dec., 1891
Complete Specification Left, 17th Sept., 1892—Accepted, 17th Dec., 1892
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Fabric especially suitable for
use as a Substitute for or as an Imitation of Brocade.
I, FRANZ PAUL WERNER of 12 Barerstrasse, Munich, Bavaria, Germany,
Merchant do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to the manufacture of a comparatively cheap material
suitable for use as a substitute for and as an imitation of brocade.
The materials heretofore produced as substitutes for or imitations of brocade
possess, amongst other things, the disadvantage that the metallic covering is easily
broken off, and the texture of the original fabric is only very imperfectly thrown
into relief, thereby detracting from the beauty of its appearance.
This invention has for object to obviate such disadvantages by using specially
selected materials applied and treated in the manner hereinafter described.
In carrying out this invention material such as woven fabric of any suitable kind
as for instance of hemp, flax, wool, cotton, silk, bast or jute, to serve as a ground,
is stretched over a surface made very smooth, and then well moistened with a
solution of gelatine in water.
This operation may conveniently be effected by means of a sponge.
As gelatine usually assumes the forms of beads when being applied as a coating,
it is necessary in the present case that spirit should be added to the solution
thereof to allow of the coating or moistening of the woven fabric being effected
uniformly and quickly. After the fabric moistened with such a solution of gelatine
has been dried, it is coated, preferably by means of a large brush, with a thick
pasty mass or ground prepared by mixing boiling water with a thick paste of flour
and adding thereto Venice turpentine. In order that the ground produced by
this mixture shall not become hard or brittle, the mixture should be thinned with
ox-gall until it is capable of being applied with a brush. This mixture when
applied to the woven fabric may advantageously be dabbed with a dabbing brush
for the purpose of retaining as far as possible the original porousness, texture, or
form of surface of the woven fabric.
The ground produced in this manner with the greatest care and made as uniform
as possible, is, when dry, brushed over one or more times with leather collodion,
which consists of ordinary collodion mixed with a small quantity of castor oil;
instead of such leather collodion shellac preferably of a light color may be used.
After this coating has dried, it is coated with a composition known as French
mixtion or gold ground oil with which may advantageously be mixed about 10%
of a tenacious varnish, to prevent staining or absorption.
After about 12 to 15 hours the whole is covered with the leaf metal, such as
gold leaf, or silver leaf, (real or imitation) designed for the cloth. The surface
thus obtained is then well brushed, and coated with an alcoholic solution of shellac
to which may be added with advantage 10% of mastic.
By the method herein before described material such as woven fabrics of the kind
mentioned, can be treated in whole pieces and either over its entire surface, or
over portions of its surface. The resulting material or product has considerable
advantages over the substitutes for or imitations of brocade heretofore used. Thus
it retains its original softness; the mass incorporated therewith does not become
brittle; and the metal does not break off, even though the material be roughly
handled, so that the said material is very durable. It also clearly shews the
structure of the woven fabric, and, aided by its great durability, which is even
greater than that of the gilded and poly-chromed leather usually employed, it can
be embroidered, painted, and printed, and can be employed with advantage for a

page_text: variety of purposes, such for examples as wall-hangings, upholstery, and coverings
for ball shoes, house shoes, and screens.
Furthermore the gilding effected in the manner hereinbefore described is not
injurious to health, whereas some other methods of gilding are, as for instance
gilding effected by the aid of white lead.
To the advantages enumerated may be added its grent cheapness, which greatly
facilitates its employment for a variety of purposes and in many branches of industry
where owing to its cost, it could not heretofore be advantageously employed.
Dated this 19th day of December 1891.
F. P. WERNER,
By L. W., per F. B.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Fabric especially suitable for
use as a Substitute for or as an Imitation of Brocade.
I, FRANZ PAUL WERNER of 12 Barerstrasse, Munich, Bavaria, Germany,
Merchant, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the
same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement :-
This invention relates to the manufacture of a comparatively cheap material
suitable for use as a substitute for and as an imitation of brocade.
The materials heretofore produced as substitutes for or imitations of brocade
possess, amongst other things, the disadvantage that the metallic covering is easily
broken off, and the texture of the original fabric is only very imperfectly thrown
into relief, thereby detracting from the beauty of its appearance.
This invention has for object to obviate such disadvantages by using specially
selected materials applied and treated in the manner hereinafter described.
In carrying out this invention material such as woven fabric of any suitable kind,
as for instance of hemp, flax, wool, cotton, silk, bast or jute, to serve as a ground,
is stretched over a surface made very smooth, and then well moistened with a
solution of gelatine in water. This operation may conveniently be effected by
means of a sponge.
As gelatine usually assumes the form of beads when being applied as a coating,
it is necessary in the present case that spirit such as methylated spirits of wine,
should be added to the solution thereof to allow of the coating or moistening of the
woven fabric being effected uniformly and quickly. After the fabric moistened
with such a solution of gelatine has been dried, it is coated, preferably by means of
a large brush, with a thick pasty mass or ground prepared by mixing boiling water
with a thick paste of flour and adding thereto Venice turpentine. In order that
the ground produced by this mixture shall not become hard or brittle, the mixture
should be thinned with ox-gall until it is capable of being easily applied with a
brush. This mixture when applied to the woven fabric may advantageously be
dabbed with a dabbing brush for the purpose of retaining as far as possible the
original porousness, texture, or form of surface of the woven fabric.
The ground produced in this manner with the greatest care and made as uniform
as possible, is, when dry, brushed over one or more times, that is to say until a
uniform surface is obtained, with leather collodion, which consists of ordinary
collodion mixed with a small quantity of castor oil; instead of such leather
collodion a solution of shellac preferably of a light color may be used.
After this coating has dried, it is coated with boiled linseed oil varnish known
in commerce as "French mixtion" with which may advantageously be mixed about
10% of a tenacious varnish, to prevent staining or absorption.
After about 12 to 15 hours the whole is covered with the leaf metal, such as gold
leaf, or silver leaf, (real or imitation) designed for the cloth. The surface thus

page_text: obtained is then well brushed, and coated with an alcoholic solution of shellac to
which may be added with advantage 10% of gum mastic.
By the method herein before described material such as woven fabrics of the kind
mentioned, can be treated in whole pieces, and either over its entire surface, or
over portions of its surface. The resulting material or product has considerable
advantages over the substitutes for or imitations of brocade heretofore used. Thus
it retains its original softness; the mass incorporated therewith does not become
brittle and the metal does not break off, even though the material be roughly
handled, so that the said material is very durable. It also clearly shews the
structure of the woven fabric, and, aided by its great durability, which is even
greater than that of the gilded and poly-chromed leather usually employed, it can
be embroidered, painted, and printed upon and can be employed with advantage
for a variety of purposes, such for examples as wall-hangings, upholstery, and
coverings for ball shoes, house shoes, and screens.
Furthermore the gilding effected in the manner hereinbefore described is not
injurious to health, whereas some other methods of gilding are, as for instance
gilding effected by the aid of white lead.
To the advantages enumerated, may be added its great cheapness, which greatly
facilitates its employment for a variety of purposes and in many branches of
industry where other imitations of brocade as heretofore made could not, owing to
their cost, be advantageously employed.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. The manufacture as herein described of fabric suitable for use as a substitute
for or as an imitation of brocade by treating material such as herein referred to
intended to form the ground, with an alcoholic solution of gelatine, then coating it
with a mixture or flour-paste and ox-gall and afterwards with leather collodion or
a solution of shellac and applying leaf metal to the coated surface as set forth.
2. The herein described manufacture of fabric suitable for use as a substitute for
or as an imitation of brocade, consisting of a ground fabric such as herein referred
to wholly or partially covered with successive coats of the following substances,
namely, gelatine; flour-paste mixed with Venetian turpentine and ox-gall; leather
collodion or shellac ; French mixtion containing tenacious varnish; leaf metal; and
shellac with gum mastic as set forth.
Dated this 17th day of September 1892.
W. LLOYD WISE,
Per F. J. Brougham,
46, Lincoln's Inn Fields, London, W.C., Agent for the Applicant.