Improvements in Boots or Shoes.
Year: 1898

page_text: Date of Application, 22nd Oct., 1898
Complete Specification Left, 5th June, 1899-Accepted, 29th July, 1899
Improvements in Boots or Shoes.
We, LOUIS THEOPHILE LEBRUN and ARNAUD ARNÉ, both of No. 20, Quai
Deschamps, Bordeaux-Bastide, France, Curriers, do hereby declare the nature of
this invention to be as follows:-
-
This invention relates to improvements in boots or shoes and has for its
object to make a bellows shaped or folded boot or shoe upper in one peice for
goods which are laced or buttoned on one side, in order to produce a foot
covering embodying the joint advantages of a shoe and of a boot.
To form the bellows while the upper is being cut, there is left on one of
the sides of the leather peice out of which the said upper is to be made, that is
to say; on the side which will be covered by the other after fitting up, a
little more leather, cloth, canvas or other material than is ordinarily required
for uppers unprovided with "bellows"
or folds."
After having folded and blocked the leather as usual according to the general
lines of the instep and to that of the vamp, there is formed in the part where more
leather has been allowed sufficient to make a fold on a line which is parallel to
the outline of the instep; upon this fold is applied the leg peice forming the
opposite extremity of the above mentioned leather peice thus forming the
bellows."
"
The two ends of the leather piece are glued, pasted or sewn together.
The eylets or hooks for lacing, or the button holes are arranged along the outer
edge and the corresponding eyelets, hooks or buttons are fixed opposite the
former, thus forming an upper which is buttoned or laced on the side and
is strongly and hermetically bound together, the tightening of the leg taking
place at will. This arrangement dispenses with scams over the front of the
foot and leg which have heretofore exerted a continual friction and have caused
abrasions of the skin.
Moreover the expenditure in leather or other upper material is small and in the
course of the cutting, the part where an excess of leather is allowed being placed
along the back line (wideway of the skin) is situated in the best and side part
or peices of the skin and is hence taken out of the thin and valueless part
thereof.
Dated this 19th day of October 1898.
W. BESTWICK MAXFIELD,
Applicants' Agent.

page_text: this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
}
This invention relates to improvements in boots or shoes and has for its
object to make a bellows shaped or folded boot or shoe upper in one peice for
goods which are laced or buttoned on one side, in order to produce a foot
covering embodying a shoe or a boot.
In the drawing annexed one form by way of example is given of carrying out
this invention.
Figure 1 shows the leather or other peice of material serving to form the
flat pattern before being blocked and fitted, and Figure 2 shows the upper blocked
and fitted ready for bottoming.
To produce the required folds or bellows, there is left on the side opposite to
the flap (Figure 1) in the part 6 upon which the flap will have to be applied
or folded a little more leather, cloth canvas or other suitable material than is
required for ordinary foot coverings, that is to say; in uppers made without
folds; after having folded or blocked the upper along the general lines of
the instep m, n, and of the back of the foot o, p, there is found left in the part b
enough material on lines 64, 65, to fold over and upon which the other part
shall be applied and which forms the bellows, the other extremes a¹, a², b', and b²,
are then sewn together as seen in Figure 2."
<<
The bottom of the bellows tongue 1, to ³, being secured to the bottom of the
overlapping flap a, at lines a¹ to a by sewing them together.
The eyelets or hooks for lacing, or the button holes are arranged along the
outer edge 62, 63, and the corresponding eyelets, hooks or buttons are fixed
opposite the former see Figure 2" thus forming an upper which is buttoned
or laced on the side and is strongly and hermetically bound together, the tighten-
ing of the leg taking place at will. This arrangement dispenses with all seams in
the front part of the foot and of the leg which have heretofore exerted a con-
tinual friction and have caused abrasions. of the skin, besides being liable to
break out.
Moreover less leather is required and in cutting the leather or other material
out the tip m is placed on the line of the back or middle part of the skin and
is thus taken from the thinnest and hence the least valuable part of a skin.
And further roughness is avoided and a greater opening is provided for the
insertion of the foot whence the articles can be put on and taken off more readily
than heretofore. The herein described arrangement also dispenses with the
many folds generally formed in such goods to give to them a more extended
surface.
The back portion of the upper may be provided with an inner or outer lining d
Figure 2 when desired.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of this said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what
we claim is:
A shoe or hoot upper formed in one piece, capable of being laced or buttoned
on the side, with bellows tongue formed in the upper part surrounding the ankle;
and attached to the flap, substantially as described and with reference to the
accompanying drawings..