IMPROVEMENTS IN THE DRESSING AND GETTING UP OF HOSIERY GOODS, COMPRIZING SHIRTS, DRAWERS, STOCKINGS, SOCKS, GLOVES, AND OTHER LOOPED FABRICS, MADE FROM MERINO, LAMB'S WOOL, WORSTED, COTTON, AND OTHER YARNS, AND IN MACHINERY FOR RAISING THE NAP OR PILE ON THE SAME
Year: 1843

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, WILLIAM
BATES, of the Borough of Leicester, Fuller and Dresser, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date at West-
minster, the Nineteenth day of January, in the sixth year of Her reign, did,
for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the said William
Bates, Her especial licence, full power, sole privilege and authority, that I, the
said William Bates, my exors, adñiors, and assigns, or such others as I, the
said William Bates, my exors, admors, or assigns, should at any time agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times during the term of
years therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within England, Wales, and the Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, my
Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE DRESSING AND GETTING UP OF HOSIERY GOODS,
COMPRIZING SHIRTS, DRAWERS, STOCKINGS, SOCKS, GLOVES, AND OTHER LOOPED FABRICS,
MADE FROM MERINO, LAMB'S WOOL, WORSTED, COTTON, AND OTHER YARNS, AND IN
MACHINERY FOR RAISING THE NAP OR PILE ON THE SAME;" in which said Letters
Patent is contained a proviso that I, the said William Bates, shall cause a
particular description of the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be inrolled in Her said Majesty's High Court
of Chancery within six calendar months next and immediately after the date
of the said in part recited Letters Patent, as in and by the same, reference
being thereunto bad, will more fully and at large appear.

page_text: NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said
William Bates, do hereby declare that the nature of my said Invention, and
the manner in which the same is to be performed, are fully described and
ascertained in and by the following statement thereof, reference being had to
the Drawings hereunto annexed, and to the figures and letters marked thereon
(that is to say):-
My Invention relates first to getting up what are called royal ribbed shirts,
drawers, and other articles of hosiery made of lamb's wool or worsted with
cotton ribs, the ribs being on the right side of articles of hosiery. Heretofore,
in getting up such descriptions of articles, they were scoured, then milled,
again scoured, and whilst in the wet state submitted to the action of
brimstone in a stove for that purpose, as is well understood; the articles of
hosiery so treated were then boarded and subsequently dried in a stove, in some
cases the articles being brushed, and it has been found that the process of
brimstone as heretofore practised often injures the cotton portion of the fabrics,
and the same falls to pieces or drops into holes; and I have discovered that it
is in consequence of the wet state of the cotton during the process of applying
brimstone that destroys the cotton-portion of the fabrics, there being frequently
small portions of iron rust or fragments .of. needle beards in them, which by
the action of the sulphur and, the wet on the articles form a strong corrosive
acid. At the same time it is necessary that the worsted or lamb's wool should
be moistened, in order to the same being well bleached by. the action of the
sulphur. Now this part of my Invention relates to so applying moisture to the
worsted or lamb's wool; and avoiding applying moisture: to the cotton portions
of the fabrics; and this is accomplished by wetting or moistening the fabrics.
only on the wool or worsted side of the fabrics, the articles being dried after being.
milled before being moistened for the brimstone process; and I perform this
part of my Invention in the following manner :-The articles of hosiery of the
description of manufacture above mentioned are scoured and milled as here-
tofore, they are then boarded to size, dried and brushed; I then place the wrong
side of the articles outwards (that is, the woollen or worsted surface outwards), I
then spread moistened linen cloths, which I make about forty-two inches long by.
twenty-seven inches wide, such cloths being moistened with water, taking care
that the cloths are-not too wet, and I place a layer of the articles on to the lower:
cloth, then place a second moistened cloth, then another layer of articles; and
so on till I get several layers, by which the woollen surface will be moderately
moistened, and I allow-the articles to remain about ten minutes. The articles
are then submitted to the action of brimstone, as heretofore, the moistening of
the wool surface being sufficient to produce the requisite bleaching action of

page_text: the brimstone to the wool surface; and the cotton being dry, or nearly so, is
not injuriously or so injuriously acted on by the brimstone process as here-
tofore, when the fabrics were submitted to the action of brimstone after milling,
and without drying and re-moistening, as above explained. The articles so treated
are again boarded, with the right side outwards; and I prefer them to be
finished by pressure, with heat or without heat, when on shapes, as was described
in the Specifications of my former-Patents, or as hereafter described, though this
last process may be dispensed with. I would remark, that this part of my
Invention is applicable to merinos, the cotton contained in such fabrics not
being so injured by the brimstone process as when treated wet from the milling
process.
I will now describe the second part of my Invention, which relates to the
pressing articles of hosiery without heat, comprising shirts, drawers, stockings,
and other articles of looped 'fabrics made of merino, lamb's wool, worsted, or
Angola yarns, when in a inoistened state, and pressed between surfaces of
smooth or glazed and dry mill board, by which a finished, glossy, smooth appear-
ance is obtained, and gives them a softer quality to the touch, and such pro-
cess does not injure the color. And, in carrying out this part of my Invention,
I damp the articles by the aid of cloths, in the manner above described, so as
to slightly yet evenly moisten the fabrics. The articles so moistened are then
submitted to pressure, one layer between two surfaces of glazed mill board, in
a screw or other press, and retained under pressure about two or three hours,
according to the degree of finish required.
I will now describe the nature of the third part of my Invention, which
relates to a mode of getting up articles of hosiery, hereafter mentioned, by
submitting them to pressure between heated plates, such plates being heated
by steam or hot water; and here I would remark, that in my former Patent,
of One thousand eight hundred and thirty-nine, I described the use of heated
shapes which were heated by steam ör hot water, and introduced into articles
such as stockings and other articles requiring shapes. Now this part of the
Invention relates to using plates heated by steam or hot water, instead of heated
shapes, and the articles are placed between glazed paper board, without being
on shapes, and placed between hot plates in like manner to what has before
been practised when the plates have been hoated in stoves or by fire; but, by
the use of steam or hot water for heating the plates, I obtain a more uniform
heat to the plates and a better finish to the goods. In carrying out this part
of the Invention, I generally first damp by cloths, as herein described.
Figure 1 shews a plan and Figure 2 a longitudinal section of a vessel with
grooves to receive the various plates a, a, a, to be heated, there being a pipe b

page_text: to supply steam to the vessel, or the steam may be employed for the purpose
of heating the water in which the plates are immersed. The articles being
damped, as above explained, are placed one layer between two glazed paper
boards, and place one or more such layers between two heated plates, and then
they are submitted to pressure in a hydraulic or other press for about two hours.
I will now describe the fourth part of my Invention, which relates to the
application of elastic or yielding cushions or pillows when pressing articles of
hosiery when on shapes. In carrying out this part of my Invention, I construct
cushions or pillows of waterproof or other suitable fabric or material, and I
prefer such as is called macintosh cloth. Figure 3 is a plan and Figure 4 an
end view of a cushion or pillow made of macintosh cloth; and I prefer
it to be filled with water, though it may be with air or other matter capable
of giving a yielding or elastic property to the surfaces. Figure 5 shows
a plan of a screw press with several such cushions or pillows. This part
of my Invention is particularly applicable to dyed lamb's wool and worsted
stockings, gloves, socks, and other articles capable of receiving shapes. The
articles being damped by means of cloths, as above described, and put on
shapes previously heated, are placed. between the cushions or pillows, and
submitted to pressure for about five minutes; and I prefer placing smooth
dressed leather, or thin paper board, or other smooth yielding material, between
the goods and the surface of the cushions or pillows. If hot water is used for
filling the cushions or pillows the shapes do not require heating, and in case of
hot water being so used, it will be desirable to form the cushions or pillows of
thin metal, and I prefer Britannia metal for this purpose; I would however
remark, that instead of cushions or pillows filled as above described, solid
pieces of india rubber or other elastic or yielding material may be used.
I will now describe the fifth part of my Invention, which relates to a mode
of sizing or stiffening articles of unbleached hosiery when on shapes. Figure
6 is a longitudinal section; and Figure 7 an end view; Figure 8 a side view;
and Figure 9, a plan of the machinery used for this part of my Invention. The
machine works by the aid of two endless cloths c, c, which pass over the two
rollers d, d; f,f, are two rollers covered with woollen yarn so as to produce an
even yet yielding surface to each of the rollers; g, g, are two pressing rollers
for pressing out the size used from the endless cloths; h, h, h, are guide rollers
for the endless cloths; i is a pipe in connection with the vessel f, containing
the size or stiffening matter used, such pipe being perforated on the upper
surface so as to project streams of size against the upper cloth, part of which
size flows down on the under cloth, by which means the cloths become well
covered with the size or stiffening material used. Motion is communicated to

page_text: the several parts by means of an endless strap, from a steam engine or other
power acting on the drum or pulley k, affixed on the main or drawing shaft
or axis 1. On the axis is affixed the pinion m, which takes into and drives
the cog-wheel n affixed on the axis n', and a pinion n² on the axis n¹ takes
into and drives a cog-wheel n³, affixed on the axis of the lower of the pressing
rollers f, and at the other end of that axis is affixed a drum or pulley, which
gives motion to the endless band o, which drives the pulley affixed on
the axis of the upper pressing roller g, which presses out the size from
the endless cloths. n° is a cog-wheel affixed on the axis of the lower steam
roller n, which is driven by means of the intermediate cog-wheels n* and n³,
which receive. motion from the cog-wheel n³, the upper and lower steam
rollers n being connected together by cog-wheels n'.
The articles on shapes are successively placed between the endless cloths
and carried between the rollers f, after which they are removed and passed
between the rollers above heated by steam, and then the articles are placed in
stoves to dry, or the articles may be dried in stoves and then pressed between
the steam rollers.
I would remark that this part of my Invention may be performed by
dipping the articles when on shapes into the sizing or stiffening material and
then pressed between the rollers for other pressing surfaces, and finished as
above described; or the size may be applied by other means, so long as the
articles are on shapes.
I will now describe the sixth part of my Invention, which consists of getting
up shawls, pelerines, capes, cravats, and such like articles of hosiery, by causing
them to be moistened by the aid of cloths as above described, and then sub-
mitting the same to hot pressing by means of heated rollers; and I prefer heating
the rollers with steam or hot water, and in most cases I cause the goods to be
passed several times between such heated rollers, according to the degree of
finish I wish to obtain thereto. I would here remark, that I do not confine
myself in any part of this Invention to the particular mode of moistening or
damping herein described, as various other well-known means might be
used for producing the same effect; but I prefer moistening by the aid of
cloths.
I will now describe the seventh part.of my Invention, which relates to a
machine for raising the pile on article of hosiery. Figure 10 shews a plan of
a machine according to this part of my Invention; Figure 11 shews a side
section of the machine; p is the main or driving shaft or axis, which receives
motion from a steam engine or other power, by means of an endless strap
acting on the pulley or drum 9 affixed on the axis, P. On the axis p is affixed

page_text: the pulley or drum r, which by an endless band gives motion to the pulley or
drums, affixed on the axis of one of the raising rollers t, such raising rollers
being covered with cards, between which rollers the articles are moved and
are raised. On the axis of the lower roller t is affixed the pinion v, which
takes into and drives the intermediate cog-wheel ¹, to which is affixed the
pinion, which takes into and drives the cog-wheel u affixed on the lower of
the grooved rollers w. On the other end of the axis of the upper roller t is
affixed the pinion z, which takes into and drives the cog wheel (1) affixed on
the axis of the small raising roller (2), by which means that roller is put in
motion. The axis of the roller (2) is supported in bearings (3) on the bars (4),
which move on the axis t of the upper roller t, and this roller (2) is capable
of being raised, in order to introduce the articles by means of the treadle (5)
and rods (6). On the bars (4) there are bearings for the axis of the roller (7),
which presses on the articles as they pass through the machine. The upper
roller t receives its motion from a 'drum (8) affixed on the main shaft or axis,
which gives motion to the endless band (9), which drives the pulley (10) on
the axis of the upper roller t.
Having thus described the nature of my Invention, and the manner in which
the same is to be performed, I would remark, that I do not confine myself to
the precise details shown and described in carrying out either part of my
Invention, as the same may be varied, so long as the peculiar character of
either part of my Invention be retained. But what I claim is, first, the mode
of getting up the articles of hosiery called royal ribbed fabrics, and also
merinos composed of worsted, or lamb's wool and cotton, as above described.
Secondly, I claim the mode of getting up articles of hosiery by submitting
them to pressure between surfaces of millboard without heat, such articles
having been previously moistened by the aid of cloths or other suitable means,
as above described.
Thirdly, I claim the mode of getting up articles of hosiery by submitting
them to pressure between hot plates, heated by steam in hot water, as above
described.
Fourthly, I claim the application of cushions or pillows in pressing articles
of hosiery, as above described.
Fifthly, I claim the mode of finishing articles of unbleached hosiery by
sizing or stiffening them when on shapes, as above described.
Sixthly, I claim the mode of getting up or finishing shawls, pelerines, capes,
cravats, and such like articles of hosiery, by submitting them to hot pressure
through or under rollers, such articles having been previously moistened by the
aid of cloths or other suitable means, as above described.

page_text: Seventhly, I claim the application of the raising cylinder or roller (2) as above
described, for raising pile, as above described.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Bates, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Eighteenth day of July, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and forty-three.
AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the Eighteenth day of July, in
the year of our Lord 1843, the aforesaid William Bates came before our said
Lady the Queen in Her Chancery, and acknowledged the Specification afore-
said, and all and every thing therein contained and specified, in form above
written. And also the Specification aforesaid was stamped according to the
tenor of the Statute made for that purpose.
Enrolled the Nineteenth day of July, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and forty-three.