Improvements in Embroidering Machines.
Year: 1895

page_text: Date of Application, 8th Nov., 1895
Complete Specification Left, 2nd Apr., 1896-Accented, 5th Sept., 1896
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Embroidering Machines.
We, EMILE CORNELY and ROBERT CORNELY of 87 Faubourg St. Denis,
Paris, France, Manufacturers of Sewing Machines, do hereby declare the nature
of this invention to be as follows:-
In Letters Patent No. 6877 of June 5th 1885 a machine is described and
claimed for fixing cords to a material by winding a thread around the cord and
around the needle hook which in its upward motion draws a loop upwards through
the material and produces a chain stitch on the upper side of said material while
the cord is fixed to the under side thereof. To employ said machine the design to
be embroidered had to be applied to the upper side of the cloth and the cording
work was produced on the underside and the operator was thus unable to see his
work. To obviate this difficulty, we have combined a machine in which the
revolving thread carrier, the cord and the universal feed are arranged and operated
above the cloth plate, while the needle hook and its nipple are below the plate of
the machine.
Upon the accompanying drawings:
Figure 1 represents a side view of the machine.
Figure 2 a front view thereof.
Figures 3, 4, 5, 7, and 8, the stitch producing organs on a large scale, and
Figure 6. a cross section of the upper nipple.
The revolving thread carrier 6 which can be directed by means of the crank
handle B of the machine is fully described in Letters Patent No. 2597 of May 24th
1883, and its operation is well known, a description thereof being therefore
superfluous. The cord 12 to be fixed to the cloth is wound on a spool K which is
mounted on the head of the machine and said cord descends down the central tube
of the machine and through the guide a of the upper nipple X to the cloth. The
thread g of the revolving thread carrier bruns from the spool Q down through the
revolving thread carrier b and as the needle hook C-Figure 3-rises, it winds its
thread around the needle and around the cord 12 and when the needle C descends,
its hook takes hold of the thread g and draws it downward to produce a chain
stitch on the under side of the cloth while the cord is fixed above the same.
enable the hook C to take hold of the thread in its downward motion, the nipple ✗
has to be opened on its front part as shewn at 3 in Figures 3, 4, and 5 and in a
cross section at Figure 6.
To
The nipple d of the needle hook C works in conjunction with the said needle.hook
in the usual,manner to produce the chain stitch. For certain kinds of work it is
also necessary that the thread guiding part a of nipple X should be independent of
same, viz., that the thread guide a should not rise and descend with nipple X
although participating in its turning motion. Figure 8 represents such an arrange-
ment in which nipple X effectuates its up and down motion without thread guide a,
said thread guide turning with nipple X by means of the forked part Y in
conformity with the universal feed of the machine.
The nipple X-and its cording guide a-which is directed by the crank handle-B
in conformity with the universal feed may have an up and downward motion like
the nipple of the ordinary embroidering machine or it may be made stationary with
sufficient space between it and the cloth plate O of the machine so that the feed of
the cloth may be effected without hindrance.

page_text: The organs above the cloth plate are operated from shaft D and those below
from the same shaft by means of pinions 4, 5, shaft 6, pinions 7, 8 and shaft 10.
Dated this Eighth day of November 1895.
We, EMILE CORNELY and ROBERT CORNELY, both of 87 Faubourg St. Denis,
Paris, Manufacturers, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
.in and by the following statement :-
In Letters Patent No. 6877 of June 5th 1885 a machine is described and claimed
for fixing cords to a material, by winding a thread around the cord and around the
needle hook, which in its upward motion draws a loop through the material and
produces a chain-stitch on the upper side of the said material, while the cord is
fixed to the underside thereof. To employ said machine the design to be
embroidered had to be applied to the upper side of the cloth, and the cording
work was produced on the underside, and the operator was thus unable to see
his work.
To obviate this difficulty we have constructed a machine in which the revolving
thread-carrier, the cord and the universal feed are arranged and operated above
the cloth plate, while the needle hook and its nipple are below the plate of the
machine.
Upon the accompanying drawings-
Figure 1 represents a side view of the machine,
Figure 2, a front view of the upper part thereof;
Figures 3, 4, 5, and 7, the stitch-producing organs on a large scale,
Figure 6, a cross-section of the upper nipple.
The other figures are details hereafter to be referred to.
The stitch-producing organs-Figs. 3, 4, 5, and 7-are composed ;-
1. Of a hook needle C working from below upwards through the cloth h,
2. Of the under nipple d working equally below the cloth upwards,
3. Of the upper nipple X having its front part cut out at 3 so as to be open on
that side,
4. Of the revolving thread-carrier b which receives its thread g from the spool Q,
and which winds its thread around the nipple and around the cord 12, which is to
be secured to the cloth,
5. Of the cording guide a of the nipple X, whose cord 12 runs from the spool K
through the central tube of the machine and down to the cloth.
The stitch is produced in the following manner :-
The two nipples X and d being in the position represented at Figure 3, where
they both press against the material, the hook needle C descends from its highest
position and seizes the thread. In the meantime the thread-carrier b has wound
its thread around the cord 12, around the nipple X, and around the needle hook C,
and the latter in descending seizes the thread g, and draws a loop of it downward
through the cloth h, and through the loop m of the preceding stitch, as represented
at Figure 4, the two nipples X and d pressing all the time on the loop m to
prevent it from being broken by hook C. The book C having arrived at its lowest
position, the two nipples X and d move respectively to their highest and
lowest position-as represented at Figure 5-and the feed of the cloth takes place,

page_text: alter WDICD the stitch-producing organs return to the positions represented at
Figure 3.
It is evident that the above-described operations are possible only when the
upper nipple X is opened on one side, so that the needle hook C is enabled to seize
the thread gon its downward motion.
In the stitch thus produced the cord 12 is enveloped in the upper stitching of
the seam, as represented in Figures 3, 4, and 5, and is securely fixed to the
material, while a chain-stitch is produced on the under-side of the material. When
no cord is employed, the revolving thread-carrier b working in conjunction with
the needle hook C and with the sidewise opened nipple, produces the simple
chain-stitch on the under-side, and the stitching on the upper side of the material.
The stitch-producing organs above the cloth plate are operated from shaft D in
the manner described in Letters Patent No. 1705 of January 30th 1891, an those
below from the same shaft by means of pinions 4, 5, shaft 6, pinions 7, 8 and
shaft 10, or by any other disposition of gear-wheels and shafts.
Figure 8 represents an arrangement where two thread-spools are employed in
combination with two revolving thread-carriers band i; in this case the thread g
produces the simple chain-stitch without the employment of a cord, and the
thread is wound around each stitch so as to produce an ornamental embroidering
seam, as shown on Figure 7.
Figure 9 represents a section through the nipple tube E and through the
nipple X when the latter is employed to secure stringed beads to the material, said
stringed beads being guided down the central tube of the machine from a spool H,
Figure 1.
Figure 10 represents a section through nipple tube E and nipple X when
employed for the work with cord.
Figure 11 represents the under nipple D provided with a cup-shaped shield F to
protect the under nipple tube I from any fibres, dust or other impurities which
may prevent the proper working of the nipple tube I in its bearing in hub M; the
said protecting shield is provided with a hinged cover 6* for opening and closing a
hole for lubricating the nipple tube I.
In this machine it is necessary that the stroke of the upper nipple X should be
made adjustable for different kinds of work and the thickness of the material; this
is obtained in the following manner :- -Cam L. (Figures 2 and 12) operates lever N
on its pivot 2; the lever N raises lever which is pivoted at n in the slot 3* of
bracket S and thus raises pin 4* of slide P which operates the nipple tube E. Tha
pivot n of lever O can be shifted within slot 3* and thus the bearing point 5* of
lever can be brought nearer to or farther from the pivot 2 of lever N, whereby
the stroke of said lever and consequently of slide P can be adjusted. The
downward motion of slide P is produced by the action of spring T.
Figures 13, 14, 15 and 16 illustrate vertical and horizontal views of a protecting
shield to be applied to the lower head plate V (Figure 1) to protect the parts
working below the cloth against fibres, dust or any impurities which may affect
the proper working of the mechanism below the cloth plate. The protecting
shield U is secured to the head plate V by means of a hinge p which permits of its
being opened for cleaning and oiling the working parts.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we
claim is :-
1. The production of a single chain stitch by means of a revolving thread-
carrier working above the cloth in conjunction with an upwardly moving
needle hook C and a sidewise opened nipple X operating in such a manner that the
revolving thread-carrier 6 winds its thread around the sidewise opened nipple ✗
so that the needle hook C may seize it at its downward motion, to produce the
chain-stitch seam as above described.
2. The method herein described of securing a cord 12 or stringed beads

page_text: to the upper side of the material by the action of a revolving thread-carrier o
working in conjunction with an upwardly moving needle hook C, with a sidewise
opened nipple X and its cording guide a in such a manner that the revolving
thread-carrier 6 winds its thread around the sidewise opened nipple X so that the
needle hook C may seize it in its downward motion and produce its stitch by which
the cord is enveloped and thus secured to the upper side of the material, substantially
as above described.
Dated this Second day of April 1896.
For the Applicants,
GEDGE & FEENY,
60 Queen Victoria Street, London, E.C., Chartered Patent Agents.