Improvements in Looms for Weaving, specially applicable for Weaving Samples.
Year: 1896

page_text: Date of Application, 14th Nov., 1896
Complete Specification Left, 12th Aug., 1897-Accepted, 18th Sept., 1897
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Looms for Weaving, specially applicable for
Weaving Samples.
We, LEON DESMARAIS, Manufacturer, and LOUIS CANAL, Engineer, both of
21 Boulevard Poissonniere, Paris in the French Republic, do hereby declare
the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to textile sampling and weaving apparatus, and has for
object to introduce certain improvements in such apparatus whereby the long
and costly operations, hitherto necessary for the sampling or producing a specimen
or pattern of the weaving, and the weaving of the tissues of fabrics, are dispensed
with.
It consists in arrangements for operating the warp-threads directly so as to
produce the design or pattern in a special manner on the apparatus itself, which
can therefore be adapted to all kinds of plain or figured woven fabrics,-silk,
wool, cotton,, or mixtures. In short our sampling appaattus fulfils the same
purpose as weaving looms provided with Jacquard mechanism or multiple shuttles.
The advantages secured by the invention are:-1. To supersede pattern-cards
and the cost of their production; 2. To avoid the mounting of a loom, and the
several operations necessary at each change of design; 3. To suppress warping
when necessary, this being done on the apparatus itself; and 4. To dispenso
with shuttles for sampling whatever number of colors of wefts may be contained
in the design. Only a simple re-laying of the threads in the warp and in the
reed is required for preparing the sampling, and the extent to which the pattern
in the warp and the woof may be reduced can be varied as desired.
The apparatus comprises one on more perforated metallic cylinders provided
with ratchet mechanism for producing intermittent rotation, and supported upon
a pivot to allow of their being moved to an oblique position. The perforations are
of various sizes and placed at different distances apart, and they are distributed
over the entire surface of the cylinders. A cloth or canvas cover is secured
around the cylinder and is pierced with holes corresponding with certain of the
perforations in the cylinder for the purpose of allowing the warp-threads to be
lowered, but some of the perforations in the cylinder are covered by the non-
perforated part of the band which is made transparent. Immediately above the
cylinders and over their axial line are suspended vertically-operating warp needles
corresponding in number with the perforations on one section of the cylinder,
and guided at several places by perforated metallic bands two of which are fixed
to or carried on a frame having a reciprocating rectilineal, movement; another
band above these is secured to a fixed part of the apparatus, and directly over it
is a solid cross-bar serving as a stop for the needles. The intervals between the
two movable metallic hands, and between the upper band and cross-bar, are
capable of adjustment by means of two sets of screw-threaded rods, one set con-
necting the movable frame with its operating mechanism, and the other connecting
the band and cross-bar with the supports of the cylinders, and serving also as

page_text: guides for the reciprocating frame. This frame carries a band of caoutchouc or
other suitable elastic material above one of the movable metallic bands, for the
purpose of causing the needles to participate in the movement of the frame except
when they encounter no resistance. The vertical alternating movement of the
frame is obtained by means of levers operating a boss on the vertical rod of the
front in an upward direction, and a suitable spring drawing it downwards,
the said levers being actuated by a cam on the driving-shaft. At one end the
driving-shaft may be provided with a hand-wheel, or, in case of power-driving,
-with pulleys.
The ratchet mechanism on the perforated cylinders is so aranged as to move
the latter to an extent corresponding with the spaces between the rows of per-
forations at each movement.
The warp-threads are unwound from a beam and passed through the needles,
a spring being arranged on the warp-beam to ensure the proper tension. After
being engaged by a reed hinged upon a fixed part of the frame, the warp-threads
are attached at their ends to the cloth-roller upon which the woven fabric is
wound, and the movement of which is controlled by cord and pulley devices, a
helical wheel, and an endless screw on the driving-shaft. A cor and lever
operated by a cam on the driving-shaft are arranged to withdraw the beater comb
away from the cloth-roller, while a spring actuates it in the opposite direction.
The perforated cylinders and needle carrying frame are inclined on their support-
ing pivot to the angle required for producing the reduction or scale of the pattern
determined, and the speed of unwinding from the roller is also adapted to this
reduction. The driving-shaft is turned so that the movable frame and the needles
are raised, all the warp-threads being thus raised. One turn of the driving-shaft
being then made, the frame is lowered and those needles which come over the
uncovered perforations of the cylinder pass into them, whilst the other needles
are kept raised by the elastic retaining band. An inter-lacing of the warp
threads is then formed between the needles and the beater-comb, and a weft is
passed through it by any convenient means, the action of the comb retaining the
weft therein. A corresponding quantity of fabric is wound upon the cloth-roller.
Then the frame is raised together with the needles, and the cylinders are moved
by their click mechanism so as to present a new row of perforations to the needles.
The foregoing series of operations is repeated until all the rows of perforations
have passed under the needles.
The second part of our invention relates to the arrangement for passing the
woof-threads through the interlacing of the warp-threads, instead of the shuttles
usually employed. A revolving plate carrying spring spindles for holding the
reels of different colors is arranged upon a support secured to a fixed part of the
apparatus, and a spring adjutage is provided on the plate for each reel, a portion
of thread being passed through it. Opposite the plate is a nipper formed of a
metallic rod terminating in a spring-clip, and travelling in a guide on the support.
By means of compound levers, and cord-and-pulley devices the nipper is caused
to pass to and fro across the warp and seize the adjutage and thread presented
to it by the plate; the weft is thus drawn out by the return movement of the
nipper and conveyed to the place it is to occupy in the fabric where it is secured
by the beater comb already mentioned. Simultaneously scissors cut the weft at
both ends, and after a fresh interlacing of the warp threads the operation of the
nipper is repeated.
The wefts may either be automatically moved by the rollers and presented
indiscriminately to the nipper, or, by turning the plate by hand the reel of the
right color may be brought into position as required.
In the foregoing operation with the nipper the fabric produced has no border
or selvage, but the above arrangement being intended specially for sampling, this
is not material.
In conclusion we reserve the right to produce the various mechanical move-
ments required for the working of our apparatus in any other way than that

page_text: described, as the principle upon which our invention is based will not thereby
he affected.
Dated this 14th day of Novembou 1900
GEDGE & FEENY,
60 Queen Victoria Street, London, 1.C., Chartered Patent Agents.
Improvements in Looms for Weaving, specially applicable for
Weaving Samples.
We, LEON DESMARAIS, Manufacturer, and LOUIS CANAL, Engineer, both of
21 Boulevard Poissonniere, Paris, in the French Republic, do hereby declaro
the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to
be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
This invention relates to textile sampling and weaving apparatus, and has for
object to introduce certain improvements in such apparatus whereby the long
and costly operations hitherto necessary for the sampling-or producing a specimen
or pattern of the weaving, and the actual weaving of the tissues of fabrics, are
dispensed with.
It consists in arrangements for operating the warp-threads directly so as to
produce the design or pattern in a special manner on the apparatus itself, which
can therefore be adapted to all kinds of plain or figured woven fabrics,-silk,
wool, cotton or mixtures. In short our sampling apparatus fulfils the same
purpose as weaving looms provided with Jacquard mechanism or multiple shuttles.
The advantages secured by the invention are as follows:
1. To supersede pattern-cards and the cost of their production.-2. To avoid
the mounting of a loom and the several operations hitherto rendered necessary at
each change of design.3. To suppress warping when necessary, this being done
on the apparatus itself; and 4. To dispense with shuttles for sampling whatever
number of colors of wefts may be contained in the design. Only a simple re-laying
of the threads in the warp and in the reed is required for preparing the sampling,
and the extent to which the pattern in the warp and in the woof may be reduced
can be varied as desired.
In order to clearly explain the construction and operation of our improved
apparatus, reference is made to the accompanying drawings, upon which
Figure 1 is a side elevation partly in section of our improved weaving and
sampling apparatus ;
Figure 2 being
a plan of the same from above;
Figure 3 is a cross-section on line 3-3 of Figure 1;
Figure 4, a separate view of one of the needles used in the apparatus;
Figure 5, a longitudinal section and plan of a nipper which may be used instead
of shuttles, and
Figures 6 and 7 are respectively a longitudinal section and transverse section
on an enlarged scale, shewing details of the working parts of the apparatus.
In Figures 1, 2, and 3,
A is a perforated metallic cylinder which may be repeated a certain number
of times, according to the card-setting, in the length of the apparatus; as
shewn on the drawing by way of example there are two cylinders A, A'. In
the case, of several cylinders being used, they are arranged in succession and
mounted on axes in friction bearings. The perforations are of varying sizes and
distances apart; in all cases they are distributed uniformly over the entire surface
of the cylinder or cylinders.
B, (Figs. 6 and 7) is a cloth or canvas band substituted for the ruled paper of

page_text: the card-setting, and made sufficiently transparent to allow the perforations of
the cylinder A to be seen through it; it is pierced with holes at places where
the warp-threads have to be lowered, such holes being arranged to correspond
with perforations in the cylinder. As will be seen, some of these perforations
are covered a non-perforated part of the band or cover. This cover 3 com-
pletely surrounds the cylinder and is suitably secured thereon. C, C are the
needles, through the eyes of which (Fig. 4) are passed the warp-threads;
these needles which are operated with an ascending and descending movement, are
equal in number to the perforations in one row of the cylinder, and are arranged
vertically above the axis thereof. They are provided at several places with
guides formed of perforated metallic bands, d, d', d². Two of the metallic
bands d, d, are carried on a needle-carrying frame 1), actuated as hereafter
described with a reciprocating rectilinear movement. The band d² is a fixture
and above it is a solid metallic cross-bar serving as a back-stop for the needles C.
It will be seen that the intervals between the metallic bands d, d, and between
the band and cross-bar can be regulated as desired by means of rods e, e¹
on which they are screwed, one set of which rods connects the needle-carrying
frame D to the mechanism which operates it, and the other set being firmly
secured in the support E of the cylinders A. The rods e-serve also as guides for
the frame D, and the rods e pass through a guide at their lower part.
Above the metallic band d is a band F of india-rubber or other suitable elastic
material carried on the frame D), and crossed by all the needles C. This band F
nips the needles and causes them to participate in the movement of the frame 1)
unless resistance is offered to the passage of the needles, in which case they simply
slide within the said band.
The vertical alternating movement of the needle-carrying frame D is obtained
by means of a set of levers f connected to a boss f' attached to the rod e, and
drawn constantly downwards by a spring G; whilst a lever g (Fig. 3) and a
cam (Fig. 2) keyed on the driving-shaft H, draw the boss upwards.
The driving-shaft H extends towards one end of the apparatus where it carries
a hand-wheel V, or pulleys for power-driving. For each weft the driving-shaft
is arranged to make one complete revolution.
The support E of the cylinders turns on a pivot I in a pedestal I' of any suitable
construction rigidly secured upon the lower frame K of the apparatus; this
pivot allows the support E and consequently the cylinder A to be inclined to the
angle requisite for obtaining the desired reduction in scale of the warp pattern,
the position required being regulated by means of studs engaging in grooved
segments y, y formed on the support E and having as their centre the axis of
the pivot I.
On the perforated cylinders A, A¹ are secured ratchet-wheels a (Figs. 2, 6
and 7) with which pawls engage operated by cams m on driving-shaft H. This
mechanism has for object to cause an intermittent rotation of the cylinders;
and in order that the rows of perforations thereon may arrive in succession under
the needles C, the teeth of the ratchet-wheels correspond with the spacing of the
rows of perforations. L is a yarn-roller from which the warp-threads are
unwound, and these threads on their return pass through the needle-eyes e, the
tension of the warp-threads being maintained by a spring r acting on the yarn-
roller L. M is the cloth-beam on which the woven fabric is wound. The taking-
off is controlled by an endless screw upon the driving-shaft H operating a
helical wheel upon the axis of which is wound a cord passing over a pulley na
keyed upon the axis of the cloth-beam M. A series of pulleys of different
diameters enables the speed of unwinding to be accelerated or retarded according
to the reduction required in the woof.
N is a reed or beater-comb (Fig. 3) through which the warp threads are passed;
a spring constantly withdraws the reed towards the cloth-beam M, whilst the
reed which is hinged at o is drawn in the opposite direction by a cord attached to a
lever operated by means of a cam pkeyed on the driving-shaft H.

page_text: The above described first part of our apparatus operates in the following
manner:-
The warp-threads & unwound from the yarn-roller L are passed through the
needle-eyes c, and after being engaged by the reed N, are secured at their ends on
5 the cloth-beam M. The cylinders A, A are turned to an angle appropriate to
the reduction desired, and the speed of winding on the beam M is adapted to
this reduction. The driving-shaft H is turned so as to raise the needle carrying
frame D and consequently the needles C-all the warp-threads being thus lifted.
One turn of the shaft H is then made causing the needle-carrying frame D to
be lowered by means of its cam h, and the needles C which come over the
uncovered perforations of the cylinders pass into them, whilst the other needles
slide in the retaining band F and remain raised. An interlacing of the warp-
threads is thus formed between the needles and the reed N. A weft is passed
within this interlacing and held therein by the action of the reed; a corresponding
quantity of fabric is wound upon the beam M. The needle-carrying frame 1)
is afterwards raised so as to lift the needles engaged in the cylinders, which latter
by means of their click mechanism are turned so as to present a new row of per-
forations to the needles C.
This set of operations is repeated at each turn of the driving-shaft H, until
all the rows of perforations on the cylinders have passed in succession under the
needles. At each set of operations the warp-threads may be differently interlaced;
this is determined solely by the cover or cloth band B around the cylinder, which
cover is adapted to the particular fabric desired to be produced.
It will be understood that the combination of the movements of the needles
and of the cylinders allows the manufacture of various fabrics which up to the
present could be produced only by use of the Jacquard mechanism.
As already stated the woof threads may be passed within the interlacing of
the warp-threads by means of shuttles in the ordinary or any other manner;-
when however it is required to produce a sampling-which is the case more
particularly provided for by the apparatus in question-the shuttles are replaced
by the arrangement described below, forming the second part of our invention.
Upon a support O, secured upon the pedestal I¹ of the apparatus, is arranged
to revolve a circular plate P carrying a series of spring spindles holding as many
reels g of different colors as may be required for the pattern. For each reel a
spring adjutage s is provided on the plate P so as to permit a portion of thread
to extend through it. Opposite the plate a weft-nipper Is (Fig. 5) 'formed of a
metallic rod terminating in a clips is arranged to travel horizontally to and fro
from the plate in a guide Q placed on the support 0, in such a manner as to
prevent the nipper from turning on its axis. The nipper is operated by a cam u
(Fig. 3) and a set of compound levers and cords or runners a passing over suitably
arranged pulleys and through the interlacing of the warp-threads. When the
nipper S comes up to the plate P, its clip s slides over the corresponding adjutage s
and grips the weft thread which, by the return movement, is drawn out and
crosses the warp; it is then conveyed to the place it is to occupy in the fabric by
the action of the reed or beater comb N, previously referred to. At the same
moment scissors v, cut the weft-thread at both ends, and after a fresh inter-
lacing of the warp-threads, the nipper S is again passed through the warp and
seizes a new weft-thread which is similarly placed in position by the reed, and so
on.
The weft-threads moved automatically by the rollers, may either be presented
indiscriminately to the clip, or by turning the plate by hand the. reel of the color
required may be brought opposite the clip s¹.
The fabric produced by using the above described nipper has no border or
selvage, but as only a sampling is required, this is not material, for the character
of the fabric may readily be judged from the sampling. The operation, it may
be added, is extremely simple.
In conclusion, we do not confine ourselves to the precise forms and dimensions

page_text: of parts shewn on the drawings, and moreover we reserve the right to produce the
various mechanical movements necessary for the working of our apparatus in
any other way than that described, the principle on which our invention is based
being unaffected thereby.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what
we claim is:
1. In looms for weaving, the arrangement of one or more perforated cylinders A,
having intermittent rotation and covered by a wrapper B in which is pierced
the design of the card-setting so as to cover or uncover certain perforations; in
combination with needles arranged normally directly over the axis of the cylinder
or cylinders and in line with the surface thereof, each needle being engaged with
one of the warp-threads r, under which needles are presented successively the
several rows of perforations, which according as they are uncovered or covered
permit the said needles to be lowered or keep them in the raised position for the
purpose of forming an opening between the warp-threads which may vary with
each weft; and through which opening the weft is passed by any suitable devices
and finally fastened by a reed or beater so as to form a fabric; as specified.
2. In looms for weaving, the particular arrangement of one or more rotary,
perforated cylinders, and of a set of needles normally over the axis of said
cylinder or cylinders, on a pivotally mounted support secured in position by
suitable devices, for the purpose of turning such cylinders and the set of needles
to an inclination or angle appropriate for obtaining the reduction desired in scale
of the warp pattern, as specified.
3. In looms for weaving, the combination with one or more rotary perforated
cylinders, of click mechanism comprising ratchet-wheels a, pawls 1, and cams m,
upon a driving-shaft H, for the purpose of causing the cylinder or cylinders to
turn to the extent of one row of perforations for each weft worked in, and to
produce by the action of the needles carrying the warp-threads a different opening
in said warp-threads each time, as specified.
4. In looms for weaving, the combination of a set of needles C each receiving
a thread of the warp .t, and working with one or more rotary perforated cylinders A,
with the arrangement of an elastic band F secured upon a suitably guided
frame D actuated by any suitable mechanism with an alternating rectilineal
movement; said elastic band F-having for object to carry the needles which pass
through it so as to cause them to enter the perforations of the cylinder or
cylinders unless such perforations are covered, in which case the resistance offered
causes the needles to slide freely within the band and to remain raised, as and for
the purposes specified.
5. In looms for weaving, the combination with an elastic band F carrying
a set of needles and secured upon a suitably guided frame I having an alternating
rectilineal movement, of fixed and movable guides d for ensuring the rectilineal
movement of the needles, and of a cross-bar serving as a stop for said needles;
the movable guides being secured upon the frame 1 carrying the elastic band,
as specified.
6. In looms for weaving, the arrangement for the special purpose of sampling,
of a nipper s¹ fixed at the end of a tube S actuated with an alternating rectilineal
movement transversely to the warp, and working in combination with a revoluble
plate P, carrying reels of different colors and arranged opposite the tube or
nipper-carrier S; said nipper being adapted to seize the thread of the reel pre-
sented to it and to carry it within the opening of the warp, as and for the purposes
specified.
7. In looms for weaving, the combination of a weft-nipper s, nipper-carrier S,
and revoluble plate P with a reed or beater-comb N for fastening the weft, and
with blades for cutting the weft-thread at its ends, as specified.
8. In looms for weaving, the arrangement of a single driving-shaft H provided

page_text: with suitable cams for driving one or more perforated cylinders A in a rotary
direction, a frame carrying the needle-holding band and guides for the same,
a weft-nipper s¹ and a cloth-beam M for taking off the woven fabric, said driving-
shaft making a complete revolution for each weft worked in, as and for the
purposes described.
9. Apparatus for weaving and producing sampling of all kinds of fabrics, con-
structed, combined, arranged and operating substantially as herein described with
reference to accompanying drawings.
Dated this Twelfth day of August 1897.
For the Applicants,
GEDGE & FEENY,
60 Queen Victoria Street, London, E.C., Chartered Patent Agents.
For the Applicants,
GEDGE & FEENY,
60 Queen Victoria Street, London, E.C., Chartered Patent Agents.