Apparatus Employed therein.
Year: 1888

page_text: Apparatus Employed therein.
I JESSE WILLIAMS HATCH of Rochester, in the State of New York one of the
United States of America, Shoe Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this
invention for IMPROVEMENTS IN THE LASTING OF BOOTS AND SHOES AND IN MEANS
OR APPARATUS EMPLOYED THEREIN and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:-
This invention has for its object to improve that class of lasting machines wherein
the upper at the toe and heel of the shoe is laid over upon the inner sole by means
of jaws and crimping slides, the last within the upper being mounted upon a
jack.
Each pair of jaws composed of two plates, has cooperating with it a crimping slide.
In operation the crimping slides first act upon the upper at the toe or heel of the last
and lay the upper over upon the inner sole, and thereafter in the continued forward
movement of the crimping slide or after the crimping slide has come or is coming to
a position of rest, the jaws by their closing movement, act to lay the edges of the
upper over upon the inner sole at the rear of the toe or between the heel end of the
inner sole and the shank, the toe and then the heel being lasted in succession.
The upper of the shoe to be lasted previously prepared along its edges with cement,
is placed over the last holding spindle of the jack to be described, and thereafter the
last is applied to the top of the said spindle and the upper is drawn up above the level
of the bottom of the last by means of pinchers in the hand of the operator, the pinchers
engaging the toe of the
upper.
The upper having been drawn up by pinchers is acted upon by a combined vamp and

page_text: toe-wiper which is raised against that part of the upper to constitute the top of the
shoe and is thereafter moved forward toward the toe thus stretching the upper and
fitting it to the last.
The toe-wiper has a rocking or tipping motion upon arms made moveable in the
direction of the length of the last, the toe-wiper having connected to it other
arms which govern the extent of its movement as it travels along the upper on
the last.
After this, the inner-sole previously coated with cement is laid upon the bottom of
the last with its cemented part uppermost.
The cemented inner-sole having been applied to the last, the cemented edge of the
upper at, and along the ball of the last at one side thereof is grasped by pinchers and
pulled up and laid over upon the inner-sole where it is held by the thumb of the
operator while the pinchers held in the other hand are taken from the upper and used
as a hammer to strike the upper near its edge to set the same.
This done, the same thing is repeated along the opposite edge of the upper, and
thereafter the crimping slide and the toe jaws are moved forward and made to act
first upon the toe to lay it over upon the inner-sole and then upon the edges of the
upper between the toe and ball of the last, the said slide and jaws being left in such
position to hold the overturned edges of the upper closely down upon the inner-sole.
The operator now again takes the pinchers and draws up the upper about the shank
of the last at first at one and then the other side of the last, and then the heel or quarter
part of the vamp and the stiffener within it is acted upon by the heel-crimping slide
and its accompanying heel-jaws as will be described.
The block on which the heel-lasting jaws slide is provided with a counter-holder
to impinge against the quarter and. hold it and the stiffener within it up snugly
against the last while the jaws act to lay the quarter and stiffener over upon the
inner sole.
To avoid wrinkles in the lining and upper and to also prevent the counter-stiffener
from getting out of place or tipping between the upper and lining at the heel of
the shoe I have stitched the upper and lining together along their edge as shown
in Figures 8 and 9 the said stitches shown by dotted lines being extended through
the counter stiffener shown in Figure 8 by breaking out the upper at the heel end
. of the shoe.
$
:
The counter-holder is jointed so as to permit it to rise and fall somewhat with the
shoe as the latter is moved vertically below the jaws when pressure is being applied to
the spindle of the jack.
My invention consists in the hereinafter described improvements in lasting
and in the combination in a lasting machine of the following instrumentalities viz...
A lasting machine containing a pivoted spring supported lasting jack, a movable
. table or plate located at one side the pivot of the jack, and independent heel and toe
lasting appliances mounted thereon and opposite which the heel and toe of the last may
be placed in succession by the partial rotation of the jack.
Also in a lasting machine containing a pivoted guide-block a slide-block therein
having teeth and provided with a stud, jaws pivoted on the said stud, a lever, and
gearing between it and the slide-block to move it, and the jaws, and a ratchet plate
and pawl to hold the slide-block and jaws in place.
Also in a lasting machine, a jack to hold a shoe to be lasted, and a slide-
plate having a stud provided with a rounded or bevelled seat, combined with
a pair of jaws mounted on the said stud, the rounded or bevelled seat thereof
permitting the said jaws to tip and adapt themselves to the bottom of the last.
Also in a lasting inachine à jack to hold the shoe to be lasted, and a slide plate
having a stud thereon, combined with a crimping-slide, a pair of crimping-jaws and
means to actuate. them, whereby the crimping-slide is made to act upon the toe of the
upper and lay it over upon the toe of the inner-sole prior to the action of the said
crimping-jaws upon the upper at the sides of the last back of the toe or between the
toe and ball of the last.

page_text: Also in a jack, a spindle, and spring to support the jack and a link connected to
the said spindle and to a treadle combined with a table, and with toe and heel jawe to
operate.
Also in a guide-block, a toothed slide block therein, jaws pivoted thereon, and an
intermediate gear in engagement with the slide-block combined with a lever and gear
moved by it to actuate the said intermediate gear.
Also in a lasting machine containing a rotating jack and having an attached rod
supported by a spring and joined by a connecting rod to the treadle, and having
a nut to adjust the effective strength of the said spring.
Also in a lasting machine, a guide-block a slide-block therein a pair of jaws and
means to move them, combined with a jointed counter or upper holder located just
below the jaws to operate.
Also in a lasting machine, a jack to hold the shoe to be lasted combined with the
toe-wiper pivoted at its ends and near its centre on moveable arms, the said arms
being moved to cause the toe-wiper to be moved up against the upper and then
longitudinally along the same toward the toe of the last.
Also in a lasting machine, a heel pin or standard to support the last combined with
an expansible toe-wiper composed of the plates w w herein after described and the
leather or non-fibrous centre 2 also hereinafter described and pivotted on two sets
of pivotted arms.
Also in the upper and the counter stiffener stitched together along the edge of the
upper and the lower edge of the counter-stiffener.
Also in that improvement in the art or method of lasting shoes, which consists in
applying to a last an upper cemented about its edges and previously dried, drawing
the toe of the upper up about the toe of the last, applying to the last an inner sole
previously cemented and dried drawing the edges of the upper over upon the inner
sole at or along the ball of the last forcing the edge of the upper at the too and
immediately at the rear of the toe over upon the inner sole, lasting the shank and
quarter, and applying a cemented outer-sole, and subjecting the same to blows to
cause the cemented surfaces of the outer-sole to adhere to the cemented surface of the
inner-sole,
Figure 1 is a vertical section of a lasting machine embodying this invention.
Figure 2 a top or plan view of Fig. 1 the jaws being partially broken out to show
the crimping slides under them.
Figure 3 a left hand end view of the upper part of the jack illustrated in Fig. 1.
chiefly to show the toe wiper.
Fig. 4 a side elevation of Figure 3.
Figure 5 a partial section of Fig. 1 in the line X-X looking to the left.
Figure 6 a sectional detail to be referred to of one of the adjustable blocks.
:
Figure 7 is a detail showing the toe-jaw and crimping slide under it as they
appear when the jaw is spread open and the jawe and slide are ready to be
started forward to enable the slide and then the jaws to act upon the toe of the
upper pulled above the bottom of the last, and
Figures 8. and 9 show the upper stitched to the lining and to the counter stiffener..
The standard A and its arm A¹ constitute the frame work for the working parts.
The arin A has attached to it by a shouldered bolt A2 a bed A³ provided with a
suitable locking device a shown as a spring bolt, see Fig. 1, which engages
notches at the underside of the table B pivotted to oscillate or turn on the bolt A';
the said locking device serving to lock the said table firmly in position with its toé
or heel crimping jaws opposite the jack to be described.
The table referred to will in practice have three notches side by side either of
which may be entered by the locking device a according to whether the last being
used is straight or is shaped for a right or left boot or shoe.
For lasting the toe of the shoe, I employ a toe-crimping slide ex, and above it
a pair of jaws c, cl, all carried by a stud c, erected upon a sliding plate *, free to
slide in a block c¹ pivotted at c on a carriage c having a foot made moveable in a

page_text: guideway or slot of the table B, by means of a screw c', one end of which, see
Fig. 1, enters a lug c of the table.
The screw c has an annular groove which is entered by a screw c³, thus leaving
the screw free to be rotated when it is desired to adjust the carriage c³ on the
.table.
The block c is provided with a nut 6 pivotted on the ends of pivot screws 620 see
Fig. 6. The nut 6 is threaded to receive the screw c¹0 free to be rotated but not to be
moved longitudinally in the upper end of an ear c¹² of the carriage cº.
Rotation of the screw c¹0 tips or adjusts the blocks c with relation to the carriage c
which is frequently necessary in order to adapt the jaws to the longitudinal curvature
or spring of the bottom of the last especially at the toe and heel thereof.
The block e bas erected on it a stud c which enters slots see Figs. 2 and 7, in
the tails of the plates or jaws c c¹, as usual, the said stud first passing through the
longitudinal slot of the toe crimping plate c*.
The slide block of dovetail shape, see Figure 5, is provided at one side, above the
block with teeth c" to be engaged by the teeth of an intermediate gear engaged
by a pinion 16 secured to or actuated by a lever as c", movement of the said lever
by the hand of the operator enabling both the crimping slides and jaws to be moved
forward.
A pawl controlling lever c¹ pivotted at 20 on the said lever c" nomally acts to
cause one end of a pawl c18 to remain in engagement with a stationary ratchet-toothed
plate and hold the hand lever and consequently the jaws and slide in any
position in which they may be left by the operator when he takes his hand from
the said lever.
The shoulders of the studs c² and d² where they support the crimping slide and
jaws above them, are rounded, bevelled, or shaped, substantially as shown in Fig. 5,
to thus enable the said slide and also the jaw above it to rock more or less in order
that the said slide and jaw may accommodate themselves to slight differences in the
height of the outer or inner side of the last, and to slight inequalities in thickness
of the stock.
For lasting the heel, I employ a heel crimping slide d* and a pair of jaws com-
posed of slotted plates d d', all mounted on a common stud d of a slide plate d³ which
enters a groove in. the block d' pivotted at d³ on a carriage d' made adjustable
longitudinally on the table B by a screw d'.
The slide block d³ is toothed at d as described of the slide plate c³, and is moved
horizontally when it is desired to close and open the jaws, by an intermediate gear d¹³,
gear de, and hand lever d
The guide block d pivotted at d is made adjustable about the said pivot by a
screw dio constructed as described of the screw c10 and entering a like pivotted
nut b.
The slide block d³ is provided at its outer end with a counter holder or presser
composed chiefly of a head E pivotted upon or jointed to a sliding shank ex
surrounded by a spring e which normally acts to force the holder outward.
B
The last is held on a heel pin f¹ pivotted at fx on stands * erected upon a
head free to rotate on a stud screw f3 at the top of a spindle fentering a collar f
in the upright A, the head f' and parts above it forming a jack.
The spindle is sustained by a spiral spring resting on an adjusting nut f which
may be rotated on a threaded part of the guide rod attached to a stand 8 of the
upright A, the said guide rod entering loosely a hole in the spindle f*, the said
spring normally acting to lift the jack, the strength of the spring being adjusted
by turning the nut f
The jack may be lowered by a link g and treadle g¹ whenever desired, which is
done when the shoe with the upper upon it is placed next the guide blocks c', or d
preparatory to causing the crimping-slides and jaws to lay the upper over upon the
inner-sole, the foot being removed from the treadlo as soon as the crimping-slide is
moved far enough forward to catch over the inner-sole, the removal of the foot from

page_text: the treadle enabling the spring to act and exert an upward pressure on the last to
measure the pressure of the slide and jaws on the upper, the stronger the spring the
greater the friction between the slide and jaws and the upper, and vice versa.
The spindle is depressed when it is desired to withdraw the slide and jaws to
remove the shoe, or to change its position to enable a heel to be lasted after a toe has
been lasted.
The head
screw
The carriage
receives the foot f10 of a carriage f° made adjustable by a
13
has attached to it a lug on which is pivotted the arms f" which
hold the pivots for the combined vamp and toe-wiper w, composed, as herein
shown, of two pieces of metal, see Figs. 3, and 4, having suitably rivetted or attached
to them a piece of sole leather or other flexible material 2, the top edge of the latter
being adapted to bear first against the material constituting the vamp or upper of the
shoe to be lasted at a point back of the toe of the last, the combined vamp and
toe-wiper being thereafter moved forward in contact with the upper by devices to be
described, the wiper travelling along the vamp or upper to the toe of the last thus
stretching or pulling the upper forward about and fitting it snugly to the last and to
the toe thereof.
The arms have connected to them strong springs 16 which normally act to keep
the vamp and toe-wiper pressed backward toward or against the toe of the upper on
the last, or against a stop or pin as 22 in an ear 23, a rod f" and spring 18, see
Fig. 3, enabling, the said vamp and toe-wiper to be contracted, or to be spread apart
according to the width of the last, or of the shoe being lasted.
The metallic frame of the toe-wiper has jointed thereto by a bolt 3 two links or
rods 24 pivotted to an ear of a rocking sleeve t mounted in the head of the
carriage the sleeve turning on a stud 5.
The rocking sleeve t has attached to it a lever-handle h² the movement of which in
the direction of the arrow in Fig. 4, the arms f" then resting against the stop 22, causes
the rods 24 to lift the edge 2 of the combined vamp and toe-wiper against the upper,
and as the rods 24 continue to move they cause the said wiper, borne closely against
the upper, to travel forward drawing or pulling and fitting the upper about the last
until the wiper arrives in the position, Figs. 1. 3. and 4.
A pawl 34, carried by the hand lever h² engaging the stationary ratchet toothed
sector / causes the combined vamp and toe-wiper to remain in the position where
left by the operator to thus hold the upper after its edge has been pulled up above
the bottom of the last by pinchers, and also while the upper is being acted upon by
the devices employed to crimp or lay the edges of the upper over upon the inner-sole
about the toe and along the sides of the inner-sole as described.
The toe having been lasted, the jack is depressed by the treadle in order that the
crimping slide or plate and the jaws may be retracted, the toe-wiper is lowered the
jack rotated half around to bring the heel of the last in position to be lasted and
the table is partially rotated or turned to bring the heel-lasting jaws into working
position.
The lower end of the heel-pin is tapped for the insertion of a screw 35* which,
provided with a suitable neck and collar, is inserted loosely in a hole in the ear or
cross plate 37* of the head f, rotation of the screw 35*, its longitudinal movement
being restrained, resulting in tipping the heel pin so as to place the heel and toe ends
of the bottom of the last more or less out of true horizontal plane, according to the
shape of the last the class of upper being lasted, and the extent of the upper to be
acted upon by the toe-wiper.
The sole leather part 2 of the toe-wiper is set with its edge uppermost to wipe and
fit the vamp to the last and hold the whole toe of the upper in position on the last all
around the same while the operator turns the upper over on the inner sole.
To avoid the use of tacks for lasting they being very objectionable especially in fine
or in the better class of shoes, I have devised a method of holding the upper to the
inner sole by means of cement,

page_text: to the edges of the vamp or its lining, and preferably the edges of the vamp and
lining will be stitched together, as at 100, and the vamp and counter stiffener 102,
at 103.
The cement so applied is permitted to stand long enough for the cement to become
tacky so that when the cemented surfaces are brought together and subjected to
pressure or a sharp blow they adhere together readily and retain their hold thus
obviating the employment of tacks, or stitches or pegs.
:
The shoe having been lasted, the outer sole, not shown but of proper shape,
previously cemented at its inner side and allowed to stand until it becomes tacky as it
will do as when the benzine, naptha or other usual solvent cimployed in so called india
rubber or gutta percha cement evaporates.
The outer sole so prepared is laid upon the lasted shoe and the outer sole is subjected
to pressure which causes it to remain firmly in position while the outer sole, the upper
of the shoe and the inner sole are stitched together.
The inner sole is marked the upper u and the counter stiffener 102.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said Inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is
1. A lasting machine containing a pivotted spring supported lasting jack, a
moveable table or plate located at one side the pivot of the jack, and independent
heel and toe lasting appliances mounted thereon and opposite which the heel and
toe of the last may be placed in succession by the partial rotation of the jack
substantially as described.
2. A lasting machine containing a pivotted guide-block, a slide-block therein
having teeth and provided with a stud, jaws pivotted on the said stud, a lever, and
gearing between it and the slide-block to move it and the jaws, and a ratchet plate
and pawl to hold the slide-block and jaws in place substantially as described.
3. In a lasting machine, a jack to hold a shoe to be lasted, and a slide-plate having
a stud provided with a rounded or bevelled seat, combined with a pair of jaws
mounted on the said stud, the rounded or bevelled seat thereof permitting the
said jaws to tip and adapt themselves to the bottom of the last substantially as
described.
4. In a lasting machine, a jack to hold the shoe to be lasted, and a slide plate
having a stud thereon, combined with a crimping-slide a pair of crimping-jaws, and
means to actuate them, whereby the crimping-slide is made to act upon the toe of the
upper and lay it over upon the toe of the inner-sole prior to the action of the said
crimping-jaws upon the upper at. the sides of the last back of the toe or between the
toe and ball of the last, substantially as described.
5. A jack, a spindle, and spring to support the jack and a link connected to the
said spindle and to a treadle, combined with a table; and with toe and heel jaws, to
operate, substantially as described.
6. A guide-block, a toothed slide block therein jaws pivotted thereon, and an
intermediate gear in engagement with the slide-block combined with a lever and gear
moved by it to actuate the said intermediate gear, substantially as described.
7. A lasting machino containing a rotating jack and having an attached rod
supported by a spring and joined by a connecting rod to the treadle, and having a nut
to adjust the effective strength of the said spring, substantially as described.
8. In a lasting machine, a guide-block, a slide-block therein, a pair of jaws and
means to move them, combined with a jointed counter or upper bolder located just
below the jaws, to operate, substantially as described.
9. In a lasting machine, a jack to hold the shoe to be lasted, combined with the
toe-wiper pivotted at its ends and near its centre on moveable arms, the said arms
being moved to cause the toe-wiper to be moved up against the upper and then
longitudinally along the same toward the toe of the last, substantially as described.

page_text: 10. In a lasting machine, a heel pin or standard to support the last, combined with
an expansible toe-wiper composed of the plates wo wo and the leather or non fibrous
centre 2, and pivotted on two sets of pivotted arms, substantially as described.
11. The upper, and the counter stiffener stitched together along the edge of the
upper and the lower edge of the counter-stiffener, substantially as described.
12. That improvement in the art or method of lasting shoes, which consists in
applying to a last an upper cemented about its edges and previously dried, drawing
the toe of the upper up about the toe of the last applying to the last an inner sole
previously cemented and dried, drawing the edges of the upper over upon the inner
sole at or along the ball of the last, forcing the edge of the upper at the toe and
immediately at the rear of the toe over upon the inner sole, lasting the shank and
quarter, and applying a cemented outer-sole, and subjecting the same to blows to
cause the cemented surfaces of the outer-sole to adhere to the cemented surface of the
inner-sole, substantially as described.
1000
WM. BROOKES & SON,
55 & 56, Chancery Lane, London,
Agents for the Applicant.