MENTS IN CRAVATS AND NECK TIES, AND IN FASTENINGS FOR CRAVATS AND PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION
Year: 1881

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to John Hinks and Thomas Hooper, both of Birmingham,
"
in the County of Warwick, Manufacturers, and Francis Robert Baker, of
IMPROVE-
Birmingham aforesaid, Mechanical Engineer, for an Invention of
MENTS IN CRAVATS AND NECK TIES, AND IN FASTENINGS FOR CRAVATS AND
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said John Hinks and Thomas'
Hooper and Francis Robert Baker at the Office of the Commissioners of
Patents on the 7th April 1881.
JOHN HINKS and THOMAS HOOPER, both of Birmingham, in the County of
Warwick, Manufacturers, and FRANCIS ROBERT BAKER, of Birmingham aforesaid.
Mechanical Engineer. "IMPROVEMENTS IN CRAVATS AND NECK TIES, AND IN
FASTENINGS FOR CRAVATS AND NECK TIES AND OTHER ARTICLES."
In making a cravat or neck tie according to our Invention we take three strips
or bands of sheet steel or other rigid metal or alloy. To the opposite ends of one
of these we joint the other two. The said strips may, by being turned upon their
joints, be brought into the same line, or the two outer strips may be turned at
right angles to the middle strip. The joint ends or inner ends of the outer strips
are pressed upon by springs, and the said ends are so formed that when brought
into either of the two positions hereinbefore indicated they are retained in these
positions with considerable force. The parts described are secured to the cravat or
neck tie by sewing, the middle strip being secured to the back of the middle part
of the cravat and the outer strips to the ends of the cravat. By means of the
outer strips connected to the ends the said ends may either be arranged in a line
with the middle part of the cravat or turned down underneath the middle part of
the cravat, thus forming a cravat with pendant ends; or the middle strip may be
dispensed with and the other two strips jointed directly together.
In constructing a fastening for a cravat or neck tie according to our Invention
we employ a lever of sheet metal, the short arm of which forms a nearly right
angle with the long arm. The said lever turns upon an axis at the junction of the
two arms, the ends of the said axis working in bearings in a sheet metal plate
Price Ridl
1

page_text: through an opening in which the short arm of the lever passes. The said plate is
supported on the shield like piece of millboard situated at the back of the cravat
or neck tie, the said millboard having an opening through which the short arm of
the lever passes.
A nearly parallel piece of sheet steel or other elastic material is fixed to the
opposite side of the millboard, the ends of the two sheets of metal being connected
together and to the millboard by eyelets.
In the last described sheet of metal incisions are made which cut out a spring
tongue attached at its base to the said sheet.
Near the free end of the spring tongue and immediately opposite the end of the
short arm of the lever a cross depression is made, which depression the short arm
of the lever enters when the lever is in its normal position.
The band of the cravat or neck tie is passed between the millboard and elastic
plate having the spring tongue. When the long arm of the lever is raised at right
angles to the shield like piece carrying the fastening the end of the band can be
adjusted, as it is not pressed upon by the short arm of the lever.
After the band has been adjusted the long arm of the lever is depressed upon the
shield like piece when the band is pressed into the cross depression in the spring
tongue by the short arm of the lever and is thereby fixed in the position to which
it has been adjusted.
Or instead of making one arm of the lever at nearly right angles to the other
arm we make both arms nearly in the same plane, the acting end of the lever being
curved downwards. Springs bear upon the acting end of the lever and cause it to
press upon the band which passes between it and the foundation plate, thereby
forcing the band into a groove or depression in the foundation plate and fixing it
in the position to which it has been adjusted.
By pressing upon the rear end of the lever the acting end is raised and the band
may be adjusted when by the removal of the finger from the lever the band is
again gripped.
Instead of acting directly on the rear end of the lever a second lever may be
employed, the acting end of the gripping lever being raised by raising the long arm
of the second lever.
According to another of our improvements we make the fastening of two
detached pieces of sheet metal. In the larger of these a spring tongue with a
cross depression near its free end is made similar to the tongue herein before
described, and at a short distance from the base of the spring tongue a cross slot is
made, that part of the plate containing the said cross slot being inclined to the
other part.
The other smaller part of the fastening consists of a tongue, the front acting
end of which is inclined downwards and has in it an opening suitable for the
reception of the end of the spring tongue on the other part of the fastening.
The two parts of the fastening are attached to the two parts of the cravat to be
fastened together.
In using this fastening the tongue of the smaller part is passed through the
slot in the larger part and made to engage with the larger part by introducing
the end of the tongue of the larger part into the opening in the tongue in the
smaller part. The two parts are thereby locked together with considerable force.
In some cases we dispense with the cross slot in the larger part.
This fastening may be used as a garter fastening, a purse fastening, and as a
fastening for various other articles.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said John Hinks and Thomas Hooper and Francis Robert Baker in the
Great Seal Patent Office on the 23rd September 1881.
JOHN HINKS and THOMAS HOOPER, both of Birmingham, in the County. of
Warwick, Manufacturers, and FRANCIS ROBERT BAKER, of Birmingham aforesaid,
Mechanical Engineer. "IMPROVEMENTS IN CRAVATS AND NECK TIES, AND IN
FASTENINGS FOR CRAVATS AND NECK TIES AND OTHER ARTICLES."
In making a cravat or neck tie according to our Invention we take three strips or
bands of sheet steel or other rigid metal or alloy. To the opposite ends of one of these
we joint the other two. The said strips may by being turned upon their joints be
brought into the same line, or the two outer strips may be turned at right angles
to the middle strip. The joint ends or inner ends of the outer strips are pressed
upon by springs, and the said ends are so formed that when brought into either of
the two positions herein before indicated, they are retained in these positions with
considerable force. The parts described are secured to the cravat or neck tie by
sewing, the middle strip being secured to the back of the middle part of the cravat
and the outer strips to the ends of the cravat. By means of the outer strips con-
nected to the ends, the said ends may either be arranged in a line with the middle
part of the cravat or turned down underneath the middle part of the cravat, thus
forming a cravat with pendant ends; or the middle strip may be dispensed with
and the other two strips jointed directly together.
In constructing a fastening for a cravat or neck tie according to our Invention,
we employ a lever of sheet metal, the short arm of which forms a nearly right angle
with the long arm. The said lever turns upon an axis at the junction of the two
arms, the ends of the said axis working in bearings in a sheet metal plate through
an opening in which the short arm of the lever passes. The said plate is supported
on the shield like piece of mill board situated at the back of the cravat or neck tie,
the said millboard having an opening through which the short arm of the lever
passes.
A nearly parallèl piece of sheet steel or other elastic material is fixed to the
opposite side of the millboard, the ends of the two sheets of metal being connected
together and to the millboard by eyelets.
In the last described sheet of metal incisions are made which cut out a spring
tongue attachéd at its base to the said sheet.
Near the free end of the spring tongue and immediately opposite the end of the
short arm of the lever a cross depression is made in which depression the short arm
of the lever enters when the lever is in its normal position.
The band of the cravat or neck tie is passsed between the millboard and elastic
plate having the spring tongue. When the long arm of the lever is raised at right
angles to the shield like piece carrying the fastening the end of the band can be
adjusted as it is not pressed upon by the short arm of the lever.
After the band has been adjusted the long arm of the lever is depressed upon the
shield like piece, when the band is pressed into the cross depression in the spring
tongue by the short arm of the lever, and is thereby fixed in the position to which
it has been adjusted.
Or instead of making one arm of the lever at nearly right angles to the other
arm we make both arms nearly in the same plane, the acting end of the lever being
curved downwards. Springs bear upon the acting end of the lever and cause it to
press upon the band which passes between it and the foundation plate, thereby
forcing the band into a groove or depression or slot in the foundation plate and
fixing it in the position to which it has been adjusted.

page_text: By pressing upon the rear end of the lever the acting end is raised and the band
may be adjusted, when by the removal of the finger from the lever the band is
again gripped.
We will now describe with reference to the accompanying Drawings the manner
in which our Invention is to be performed,-
Figure 1 represents in front elevation, and Figure 2 in back elevation, a cravat
or neck tie, made according to our Invention, the ends of the cravat or neck tie
being arranged in the same line; Figure 3 represents in front elevation and
Figure 4 in back elevation the said cravat or neck tie, with its ends turned down
into a position at right angles to the middle part of the cravat or neck tie; Figure 5
represents an edge view of the three metallic strips which are combined with the
cravat or neck tie.
The same letters of reference indicate the same parts in Figures 1, 2, 3, and 4.
a, b, c, are the three metallic strips of the cravat or neck tie, the end strips band e
being jointed at d, d, to the opposite ends of the middle strip a. To the middle
strip a strong spring e, e, is rivetted at f, the arms of the said spring bearing
against the heel ends of the outer jointed strips b, c. The adjacent sides of each of
the heel ends of the jointed strips b, c, are flat and at right angles to one another
for the arms e, e, of the spring to take a bearing against, as represented in Figures
2 and 4. The outer strips b, c, may by being turned upon their joints d, d, be
brought into the same line as the middle strip a, or the said outer strips b, c, may
be turned down at right angles to the middle strip, the said strips b, c, being
retained with considerable force in either of the positions described, by the action
of the arms of the spring e upon the flat heel parts of the said strips.
The strip a is attached by sewing to the back of the middle part 9 of the cravat
or neck tie, and the end strips b, c, are similarly attached to the ends h, i, of the
cravat or neck tie. By means of the outer strips b, c, connected to the ends h, i,
of the cravat or neck tie, the said ends may be arranged in a line with the middle
part g of the said cravat or neck tie, as illustrated in Figures 1 and 2, or the said
ends h, i, may be turned down underneath the middle part g, forming a cravat or
neck tie with pendant ends, as illustrated in Figures 3 and 4. The cravat or neck
tie is thus made convertible at the pleasure of the user either into a cravat or
neck tie having straight ends or pendant ends.
Figure 6 represents in front elevation, and Figure 7 in back elevation a cravat
or neck tie, to which a lever fastening constructed according to one of our improve-
ments is applied; Figures 8, 9, and 10 represent sections of the same drawn to a
larger scale. The sections, Figures 8 and 9, are taken through the lever of the
fastening, Figure 8 representing the lever in action, and Figure 9 the lever taken
out of action. The section, Figure 10, is taken in a direction at right angles to
that in which the sections, Figures 8 and 9, are taken.
The same letters of reference indicate the same parts in Figures 6, 7, 8, 9,
and 10.
This fastening consists of a lever i, 2, turning in the plate / fixed at the front
of the millboard f of the cravat. The long outer arm i of the lever passes through
an opening in the carrying plate k, and the short acting arm 2 of the lever is
turned at right angles to the other part i. At the back of the millboard f is a
trough plate with side ears for fastening it, through which plate the end h² of
the neck band h of the cravat is passed. From the said trough plate a spring
tongue is cut, the said tongue being attached at its base to the said plate 7.
Near the free end of the spring tongue 7 and immediately opposite the end of the
short arm i² of the lever i is a cross depression or concavity 13 (see Figures 8 and 9),
in which depression or concavity the end of the short arm 2 of the lever enters
when the lever is in its normal position. The trough plate at the back of the
millboard and the plate k at front carrying the lever i, 2, are connected together
by eyelets at m, m, passed through the millboard f, and eyeletted upon the plates
and k. Or the two plates 7 and k may be connected together by rivetting or
otherwise.

page_text: The end h² of the neck band h of the cravat or neck tie is passed between the
millboard and the trough plate having the spring tonge 2. When the long
arm of the lever i, 2, is raised at right angles to the shield like piece of carrying
the fastening, as illustrated in Figure 8, the end h² of the neck band can be
adjusted as it is not pressed upon by the short arm 12 of the lever. After the
band h² has been adjusted the long arm i of the lever is depressed upon the piece f
(see Figures 7 and 9), when the said band h² is pressed into the cross depression or
concavity in the spring tongue 12 by the short arm 2 of the lever, as seen in
Figure 9, and the said band is firmly fixed in the position to which it has been
adjusted. The short arm 22 of the lever is considerably broader than the long
arm i, the said short arm equalling in breadth the spring tongue 2, so that it has
a long grip across the neck band h2, which in conjunction with the pressure of the
spring tongue 2 holds the said band very firmly in its place.
Figure 11 represents in back elevation another lever fastening for a cravat or
neck tie constructed according to our Invention; Figures 12 and 13 represent
sections of the same drawn to a larger scale, Figure 12 representing the lever taken
out of action and the neck band unfastened, and Figure 13 the lever in action and
the neck band fastened; Figure 14 represents a modification of the fastening.
In this fastening the gripping lever r, 72, has its two arms in the same plane, the
said lever turning on the pivots and being pressed into its gripping position by
springs p², p2, made from the sides of the trough or foundation plate p, through
which the end 2 of the neck band h passes. In the trough plate p is a cross
groove or depression s. Or in place of the grooves a slot may be used, as in the
fastening herein after described.
When the outer arm 2 of the lever is depressed its inner arm is raised from
the back of the trough plate p, and the end 2 of the neck band may be removed
from or adjusted in the fastening, as illustrated in Figure 12. On loosing the lever
it is pressed into its gripping position by the springs p², p², the secure gripping of
the neck band being effected by the inner arm r of the lever pressing the said band
into the groove or depression & in the trough plate, as illustrated in Figure 13.
The slipping of the neck band between the inner arm of the lever and the trough
plate is thereby effectually prevented.
Instead of using a cross groove or depressions in the trough plate p a slot may
be made in the said trough plate, as illustrated in Figure 14, into which slot the
neck band is pressed by the inner arm r of the lever so as to effect the secure
gripping of the said band.
Although the fastenings represented are especially applicable to the fastening of
cravats and neck ties, yet they may be used for fastening other articles, such as
waistbelts or bands, waistcoat bands, and the like.
Having now described the nature of our Invention, and the manner in which
the same is to be performed, we wish it to be understood that we claim as our
Invention,
First. The improvements in cravats and neck ties herein before described and
illustrated in Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5 of the accompanying Drawings, that is to
say, the combination with the cravat or neck tie of the jointed metallic strips
a, b, c, and spring or springs e applied to the middle and ends of the cravat or
neck tie in the manner and for the purposes described and illustrated.
Secondly. The improvements in lever fastenings for cravats and neck ties and
other articles herein before described and illustrated in Figures 6, 7, 8, 9, and 10
of the accompanying Drawings, that is to say, the combination of the cranked,
lever i,, with the spring tongue 12, 13, of the trough plate 1 of the fastening,
the several parts being constructed and acting substantially as described and
illustrated.
Thirdly. The improvements in lever fastenings for cravats and neck ties and
other articles herein before described and illustrated in Figures 11, 12, 13, and 14
of the accompanying Drawings, that is to say, making the springs p², p², by which
the lever is pressed into its gripping position from the sides of the trough plate p,

page_text: and causing the neck or other band to be pressed by the inner arm of the lever
into a groove or depression 8, or into a slot t in the trough plate of the fastening
for ensuring the efficient gripping of the neck or other band by the lever,
substantially as described and illustrated.
In witness whereof, we, the said John Hinks and Thomas Hooper, have
hereunto set our hands and seals, this Seventeeth day of September, in the
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and eighty one.
Witness,
· SAMUEL GEORGE MOORE,
Birmingham.
JUDN
HINAD.
(L.S.)
THOMAS HOOPER. (L.S.)