CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANU- FACTURE OR PRODUCTION OF PLAIN AND FIGURED FABRICS
Year: 1851

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, FREDERICK
WILLIAM NORTON, of Paisley, in the County of Renfrew, North Britain,
Manufacturer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Royal Letters Patent under the Great Seal of the United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland, bearing date at Westminster, the Sixteenth day of
December, in the fifteenth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs
and successors, give and grant unto me, the said Frederick William Norton,
1er especial licence, full power, sole privilege and authority, that I, the
said Frederick William Norton, my exors, adñiors, and assigns, and such
others as I, the said Frederick William Norton, my exors, adñiors, or assigns,
should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all
times during the term of years therein expressed, should and lawfully might
make, use, exercise, and vend, within England, Wales, and the Town of
Berwick-upon-Tweed, my Invention of "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANU-
FACTURE OR PRODUCTION OF PLAIN AND FIGURED FABRICS;" in which said Letters
Patent is contained a proviso requiring that I, the said Frederick William Norton,
by an instrument in writing under my hand and seal, shall particularly describe
and ascertain the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the
same is to be performed, and shall cause the same to be enrolled in Her.
said Majesty's High Court of Chancery within six calendar months next and
immediately after the date of the said in part recited Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said
Frederick William Norton, do hereby declare the nature of iny Invention,

page_text: and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described
and ascertained in and by this present Instrument in writing, as follows,
reference being had to the Drawings hereunto attached, and to the letters and
figures marked thereon, that is to say:-
My said Invention relates to the manufacture or production under various
modifications of a novel class of plain or figured fabrics applicable for a variety
of purposes, but more especially for such uses as what are technically termed
furnitures or furniture drapery are usually applied to, as, for example,
table covers, curtains, tapestries, carpets, & trimmings. My system or process
of weaving or manufacturing fabrics of this class is capable of being worked
or carried into effect in the ordinary carpet or other loom, with the modification
of attaching a species of cross heddle to work in conjunction with the ordinary
harness or heddle mounting of the loomi. This cross heddle is arranged to
work through the ordinary pair of main vertical heddles, and it has a central
ring or loop formed in it, through which loop is passed the plain or printed
pattern yarn thread intended to form the surface of the fabric. The warp
threads pass from the ordinary yarn beam through the recd in the usual
manner. But in addition to this yarn beam the loom is provided with a
secondary beam or roller, carrying upon it a line or lines of foundation threads
of any suitable material, and of a fineness proportioned to the effect intended.
In some cases a cheap and coarse material will answer for this foundation
warp. The threads of this secondary warp are passed along just beneath the
line of surface warp threads, a thread of each warp being passed together
through each dent of the reed, so that when woven the secondary warp threads
serve as a base or foundation to carry the surface warp threads. During the
weaving action the heddles are actuated in such manner that whilst one vertical
heddle descends, as in the ordinary arrangement, to produce the shed, it
draws down the cross heddle, and with it the line of pattern or surface warp
threads, in such way that each loop or ring of this cross heddle is brought
down beneath the level of its corresponding foundation warp thread, and, as I
shall in this instance suppose, on the left side of the latter. Whilst the harness
or heddles remain in this position, a shot of weft is passed across the piece, the
weft thread from the shuttle being conveyed along over the top of the warp
threads, and beneath the foundation threads, so that the weft so passed binds or
holds down an angular loop or bend of the warp threads to the left side of each
foundation thread. Then in the course of weaving the heddies are reversed
for the next shed, and the reverse vertical heddle, or the one which remained
elevated during the last movement, now descends, and a similar action occurs
on the opposite or right side of each of the foundation warp threads; that is,
.....

page_text: each cross heddle ring draws its warp thread across its corresponding foun-
dation in the opposite direction, or to the right, the warp thread being passed
down beneath the foundation thread as before, and the next weft shot then
secures this reverse set of angular loops, and holding in each case a portion
of the surface warp across or over the surface of the corresponding foundation
thread. "In this way the weft shots secure the warp in a species of zigzag
over the foundation thread, without the actual formation of any loop. Then,
às the reed beats up the weft threads in the sheds, it also forces up at the samé
time the zigzag threads of the surface warp close together, so as to bring each
bend or angle of the warp threads to a right angle, or nearly so, with the line
of foundation threads.
Figures 1, 2, & 3, on my Sheet of Drawings, illustrate this mode of pro-
ducing my improved fabric. Figure 1 is a diagram of the heddles as at rest,
in their intermediate position, when no shed is formed; Figure 2 is a corre-
sponding view, shewing the cross heddle rings drawn to the left side of the
foundation warp threads; and Figure 3 is a similar view, representing-the
reverse action, the cross heddle rings being drawn to the right side of the foun-,
dation warp threads. The same letters of reference indicate the same parts in
each of these Figures, which are all vertical transverse sections through the reed
heddles and warp beams. The surface warp beam for the pattern is at A, the
line B being that of the warp threads passing individually through the cross
heddle rings C, and through the reed D, E being the line of the woven fabric:
The foundation warp beam F is so placed that its line of threads & shall pass
just beneath the line of the pattern warp. These threads do not pass through
the heddle loops, but proceed direct to the reed, each dent of which has a
thread from both warps passed through it. The fabric then is simply com-
posed of three several sets of materials or threads, the pattern warp B, the
foundation warp G, and the cross binding weft, which in Figures 2 & 3 is.
marked H, as passing through the two sheds. But it will be obvious to the
practical man that these materials, and their numbers and proportions, may be
variously modified to produce particular effects. The vertical heddles I, J, are
fitted up just as in the common loom arrangements, but no portion of the
materials for the threads passes through their loops K, L, these loops being
merely used to actuate the cross or additional heddle M, and the vertical
heddles being only required to act in one direction, a single knot or stop only
is necessary in each. The cross heddle M is suspended by each extremity
from the fixed points N, N, so as to form two pendant sides, terminating at the
bottom loop or bend in a ring or loop C. Each side of the cross heddle is
passed through the loop, or beneath the knot of its corresponding vertical

page_text: -
„heddle I, J, the ring C being freely suspended between the two heddles, as
more clearly delineated in my Diagram, Figure 1. This Figure represents
the arrangement of the harness in its inert state, the line of pattern warp
threads being above the foundation warp, so that no shed is formed to either
side. In Figure 2 the heddle I has descended, so as to carry the line of
cross heddles, with their rings C, to their left side, or behind their respective
foundation warp threads G. This movement correspondingly sinks the pattern
warp threads B, bringing them out of the straight line into an angle beneath
the level of the foundation warp line G, which constantly retains the same
Jevel. This forms the shed, and the succeeding throw of the shuttle then
carries a weft thread II over the depressed line of pattern warp threads, and
beneath the foundation warp. In the reverse action of the heddles, as in
Figure 3, the elevation of the heddle I slackens the cross heddle on that
side, and the depression of the heddle J draws the pattern warp over
the surface of the foundation by pulling down its side of the cross hed-
dles, and bringing their rings C to the right side, or in front of their
corresponding foundation threads. This forms the reverse shed; and a
bend of the pattern warp having been held down by the last weft
shot on the left side of the foundation, the succeeding shot for this re-
verse shed being similarly passed between the pattern and foundation
warps, now holds down a corresponding bend on the right side of the threads
of the latter, the portion of the pattern warp between these two bends being
thus laid over and covering the foundation warp at that part.
The Diagram, Figure 4, is a plan or face view of a portion of the fabric so
woven, shewing one or two of the pattern or surface warp threads as they
would appear before being beaten up by the reed in a series of zigzags, the
portion O being the finished fabric, where the zigzags are beaten up indi-
vidually into a series of crossings over the foundation threads at right angles,
or nearly so, thereto. Figure 5 is a transverse section of the fabric on an
enlarged scale.
In the description and diagrams which I have herein-before
given I have referred only to that modification of the process wherein one
warp thread is passed over each separate and individual foundation thread;
but it will be obvious to the practical man that the same principle or general
arrangement is also capable of useful application in the passing each surface
warp thread over two or more foundation threads or over irregular and alter-
nate numbers of the foundation threads to produce particular effects. I would
also remark, that this system of weaving may be carried into effect by the
agency of various mechanical arrangements of the heddles and other details.
of the loom, my object in all cases being the formation of a fabric with a full

page_text: or solid corded surface, and whether plain or figured, by cross weaving or
crossing the surface warp back & forwards over its foundation, so as to take
up the length of the warp thread without the formation of any loop. The
result of such system of weaving is the production of a full even fabric, con-
sisting of a series of cords or lines of foundation threads covered with the
crossed warp threads, and held together transversely by the crossing or inter-
weaving of the weft shots. This class of fabric presents a novel appearance,
being flatter and fuller than the common looped fabrics, whilst the weft threads
are not or need not be seen on the pattern surface, and great economy in
material arises from the use only of a thin external layer of surface warp.
The essential principle or distinctive feature of my Invention is, then, the
weaving of the surface warp threads alternately right and left over or across
one or more foundation threads, and first depressing and then binding the
surface warp alternately down on the right and left sides of the said founda-
tion threads, by means of weft shots thrown in at each crossing and depression
of the surface warp.
In this way the surface warp forms the ground or
foundation warp into a series of solidly-covered cords laid in parallel lines
across the breadth of the piece, and bound in one mass or layer by the weft
threads, forming a corded fabric.
According to another modification of my system of weaving, I cause the
surface warp threads to intersect each other, whilst they cross right and left
over their foundation threads in the manner which I have already described.
Figure 6 of the annexed diagrams is an enlarged view shewing this system
of interweaving in plan, the various threads being delineated as woven very
open, to explain the principle of weaving. A is the surface or pattern warp;
F, the foundation warp; and H, the cross binding weft. In weaving this
Figure the heddle arrangement is of the same general structure as that which
I have already herein-before described in reference to Figures 1, 2, & 3 of my
illustrative diagrains. This differential system of weaving, I may observe,
may be carried out to any convenient extent, so as to cause each surface warp
thread to embrace any required number of neighbouring interlineations of the
same warp, and crossing over any required number of the foundation threads.
And it will be obvious to the practical man that various system of mountings
or arrangements of the loom details may be adopted for producing the same
effect, this system, as well as the arrangements I have herein-before described,
being applicable as well for plain weaving as for combination with or to work
warps printed or dyed and arranged to form devices or patterns, just as is at
present practised in the manufacture of terry-looped tapestry carpets. In all
modifications, however, the surface warp threads have no loops; but the

page_text: elongated portions of the printed threads, when such are used, are taken up
and spread over the surface of the fabric, by crossing and recrossing them over
the foundation; thus spreading the threads across the width of the fabric.
And whereas the contraction or taking up of warp threads whereon elongated
patterns have been printed has hitherto only been accomplished by very tedious
processes of weaving, and chiefly by inserting wires or needles in the fabric to
draw up the warp threads into raised loops on the surface of the piece, now
I am enabled by my herein-before described processes of weaving or modifi:
cations thereof to take up the elongated pattern threads of the surface warp
in a very simple and inexpensive manner, whilst the woven pattern is produced
with better effect and greater accuracy than by the existing niodes in use.
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of my Inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is or may be used or carried into effect, I
may observe, in conclusion, that I do not confine or restrict myself to the
precise details or arrangements which I have had occasion to describe or refer
to, as many variations may be made therefrom without deviating from the
principles or main features of my Invention; but what I consider to be novel
and original, and therefore claim as the Invention secured to me by the herein-
before in part recited Letters Patent, is,-
First, the systems or modes of manufacturing or producing woven fabrics, as
herein-before described.
Second, the manufacture and use of fabrics with a full or close-covered warp
surface, produced by cross weaving over cords or foundation threads, which
form the interior body of the fabric.
Third, the system or mode of producing woven fabrics the surface of which
is entirely formed by the warp closely & solidly covering the cloth surface,
the weft not being required to appear thereon.
Fourth, the system or mode of causing the surface warp to have the external
appearance of weft shots passed transversely across the piece.
Fifth, the system or mode of producing woven fabrics wherein the surface
warp threads are bound down on the two opposite sides of the foundation
thread, and beaten up to form a firm cloth with a full or solid surface.
Sixth, the system or mode of forming the sheds for the passage of the
weft by elevating and depressing the surface warp threads above or below
the level of and on each side alternately of the foundation threads, the
zig-zags so formed being afterwards beaten up by the reed to form a solid
surface.
i.
:
Seventh, the systein or mode of producing woven fabrics by causing the

page_text: surface warp threads to intersect each other, as more particularly described in
reference to Figure 6 of my Diagrams.
3
Eighth, the system or mode of manufacturing or producing ornamental
fabrics by the adaptation of cross weaving elongated pattern surface warp
threads to contract or take up such threads in the loom.
Ninth, the system or mode of taking up elongated figures printed upon
surface warp threads by cross weaving, as herein-before described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Frederick William Norton, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, the Fifteenth day of June, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-two.
AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the Fifteenth day of June, in the
year of our Lord 1852, the aforesaid Frederick William Norton came before
our said Lady the Queen in Her Chancery, and acknowledged the Specifica-
tion aforesaid, and all and every thing therein contained and specified, in
form above written. And also the Specification aforesaid was stamped
according to the tenor of the Statute made for that purpose.
Enrolled the Sixteenth day of June, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and fifty-two.