A JACQUARD APPARATUS, DISPENSING WITH THE USE OF CARDS AND THE USUAL MODE OF DESIGNING FOR FIGURED WEAVING
Year: 1857

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Alfred Barlow, of Number 25, Darley Street, Leeds,'
in the County of York, for the Invention of "A JACQUARD APPARATUS,
DISPENSING WITH THE USE OF CARDS AND THE USUAL MODE OF DESIGNING FOR
FIGURED WEAVING."
Sealed the 9th April 1858, and dated the 10th October 1857.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Alfred Barlow at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 10th
October 1857.
I, ALFRED BARLOW, of Number 25, Darley Street, Leeds, in the County of:
York, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "A JACQUARD :
APPARATUS, DISPENSING WITH THE USE OF CARDS AND THE USUAL MODE OF DESIGNING:
FOR FIGURED WEAVING," to be as follows:-
My Invention consists in cutting the design out of card, paper, or leather,.
and nailing or fixing the same to the surface of a wooden cylinder of the
requisite circumference. I place the needles (corresponding to the horizontal
needles of the ordinary jacquard machine, which govern the suspending hooks
attached to the harness,) in one row or line, with their points protruding
through a comb or series of slots, which admits of the points of the needles
being lifted to various heights by means of the pattern cylinder before
mentioned acting upon them through the medium of a set of small needles
placed vertically, and through the eyes of which the horizontal needles pass.
Opposite to the points of the horizontal needles I place a cylinder, perforated..

page_text: so as to produce a variety of tweels; the perforations of the different tweels
being placed at different elevations on the surface of the cylinder. Now, so
long as the horizontal needles remain at one elevation, they are acted upon by
one tweel only of the tweeling cylinder, but by lifting them to another eleva-
tion, then they will be acted upon by another tweel; therefore when the pattern
cylinder raises all or any portion of the horizontal needles according to the
elevation of the pattern, the tweeling cylinder acting upon them produces a
different tweel at each different elevation, thus producing the necessary com-
binations of tweels that is required in weaving figured cloth.
The tweeling cylinder admits of being adjusted so as to produce various
combinations of tweels, so that the same design can be woven in any variety
of tweeling that may be desired, and the machine may also be used for trans-
ferring designs to the cards for the use of the ordinary jacquard machine,
which will dispense with the usual mode of designing on ruled paper.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Alfred Barlow in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 10th
April 1858.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, ALFRED
BARLOW, of No. 25, Darley Street, Leeds, in the County of York, send
greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Tenth day of October, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-seven, in the twenty-first year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me,
the said Alfred Barlow, Her special license, that I, the said Alfred Barlow,
my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Alfred
Barlow, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the
térm therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel
Islands, and Isle of Man, an .Invention for "A JACQUARD APPARATUS, DIS-
PENSING WITH THE USE OF CARDS AND THE USUAL MODE OF DESIGNING FOR FIGURED
WEAVING," upon the condition, amongst others, that I, the said Alfred
Barlow, by an instrument in writing under my hand and seal, should par-
ticularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what
manner the same was to be performed; and cause the same to be filed in

page_text: the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately
after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Alfred Barlow, do hereby declare the
nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement and accompanying Drawings:-
The principle upon which ordinary figured weaving is effected, is simply by
weaving the surface of the design in one or more varieties of tweels, satins, or
grounds, different to that in which the plain portion of the fabric is woven.
These tweels, satins, and grounds are usually composed of from two to
eight changes only in the intersections of the warp and weft, and it is in the
repetition and combination of these few changes that occasion so much labour
in the preparation of the design, and transferring the same to cards or
equivalent contrivances required in figured weaving.
:
Now, the object of the present modification of the jacquard loom is to pro-
duce these various tweels, satins, and grounds by self-acting means, by which
contrivance an outline only of the design is required; the repetition and
combination of the tweels, satins, and grounds being effected by the machine
itself.
The manner in which this is accomplished, is shewn in the annexed Sheet
of Drawings, on which Figs. 1 and 2 represent a section and elevation of the
apparatus detached from the loom. In both Figures the same letters refer to
corresponding. parts. a, a, exhibits the ends of the frame; b, b, the bottom
board, on which the vertical hooks c, c, rest; d, d, the "neck cords," which
connect the hooks to the "harness," and thence to the warp; e, e, the "griff,"
for lifting the hooks; and f, f, the horizontal needles, which govern the vertical
hooks; g, the spring box, to which the needles are attached; h shews the
"batten" or frame in which the cylinder is placed, and which is moved by the
throwing-out motion; i, i, the vertical hooks, are kept in position by the
grate j, j, and the griff is raised by means of the lever K.
The various parts above mentioned and shewn in Figs. 1 and 2 do not
differ from the corresponding parts of ordinary jacquard looms, their mode of
construction and operation being the same.
I will now proceed to describe the various portions of the apparatus which
constitute the novelty of my Invention, and which are essential for carrying
the same into effect.
The points of the horizontal needles f, f, are each passed through a, vertical
slot in the needle board A, A, and thence through the eye of a vertical needle
B, B, placed opposite to each slot. This is also shewn in detail, Figs. 3 and 4,

page_text: "
and to which the same letters refer. The vertical needles B, B, terminate
at their lowest end in a straight line or row, but in order to obtain greater
'space, and to avoid contact of the eyelets, their uppermost ends are placed
alternately in two lines or rows, and are kept in position by holes perforated
accordingly in the plates through which they pass, as shewn. Opposite to the
points of the horizontal needles f, f, a cylinder C is placed, perforated so as to
produce any required variety of tweels, satins, or grounds, each of which is
placed at a different elevation on the surface of the cylinder; thus, the cylinder
C is shown to be perforated, so as to produce three varieties, viz., plain
weaving; four-leaf tweel, and eight-leaf satin. The cylinder is caused to
revolve by means of the "throwing-out" motion bringing the pins of the lantern
into contact with the catch (as in the common jacquard loom), and the lantern
is held firm after each action of the catch by means of the pulley and spring,
as shewn. The lantern is fitted loose on the axis of the cylinder, and is
adjusted and fixed by means of a set screw, by means of which any required
combination of tweels, satins, and grounds that may be arranged on the
cylinder can be used as desired. Underneath the points of the vertical
needles B, B, is placed the pattern cylinder D, which revolves in the "batten
or rocking frame E, the fulcrum pin or bolt of which is placed at F. . The
cylinder is made to revolve slowly by means of the worm and wheel G, which
are actuated by the catch and lantern H. The lantern is held firm after
each action of the catch by means of a fork spring placed behind the catch,
as shewn. The catch is made double, so as to enable the motion of the
cylinder being reversed when required, and it is connected with the catches of
the cylinder C by means of an elastic band or cord and check spring, as
shewn, whereby both cylinders C and D may be reversed simultaneously.
The hook I, fixed at the back of the rocking frame E, and adjusted by the
bolt and slot at J, is so placed, that when the griff e, e, is lifted to the requisite
height, it causes the hook to be slightly raised also, and thereby causing the
pattern cylinder D to be depressed, and consequently the catch H acting upon
the lantern, causes the cylinder to be moved the requisite distance for one
pick or change of the warp. The distance moved may be regulated to suit
any given
or relative proportion of warp and weft by means of
change lanterns or wheels. The springs. K attached to the rocking frame
E raise the cylinder D immediately under but not touching the points
of the vertical needles B, B, stop pieces being properly placed for that
purpose.
** count
.
Now, if any design be cut out. of. leather or other suitable material of
requisite thickness, and tacked or otherwise secured to the surface of the

page_text: cylinder D, then by the action of the springs K the surface of the design will
raise such of the vertical needles B under which it is placed, and consequently
raise the relative horizontal needles f, f, opposite to a different variety of
tweel, satin, or ground on the surface of the cylinder C to that in which the
remaining portion of the needles will be placed; therefore by the action of
the tweeling cylinder C upon the horizontal needles f, f, the cloth or other
fabric will be woven in two or more varieties of tweels, satins, or grounds
according to the various elevations of the design (which may be made in
various layers), by means of which the horizontal needles are placed opposite
to and acted upon by different varieties of tweels, satins, or grounds, and as
the pattern cylinder D revolves, each portion of the design is brought in
succession to act upon the vertical needles, and thus through the medium of
the tweeling cylinder C the requisite repetitions and combinations of tweels,
satins, or grounds are produced, and transferred to the cloth as required in
figured weaving. After each action of the pattern cylinder upon the vertical
néedles B, B, they fall by their own gravity; but in order to insure their
falling, a "pressing bar" attached to flat springs, as shewn, is placed immediately
above the needles. This bar is raised by means of two strong needles L, L,
which are lifted by the cylinder D, in order to prevent the pressure from
injuring the needles B, B; but when the cylinder is depressed the "bar" will
force down such of the vertical needles as may stick.
Figure 5 represents in section a modification of the apparatus above
described, whereby the design may be transferred to cards, as used in the
ordinary jacquard machine.
The usual method of transferring a design to cards is to prescribe on the
surface of the design (as shewn in Fig. 6) the position of each perforation
required in the cards, and the punches for perforating them are placed
accordingly in the perforating plates either with or without the aid of a
"reading-in" machine. But in whichever way the cards may be perforated, the
labor attending the preparation of the design and "reading-in" or adjusting
the punches in the perforating plates is the same, and which occasions the
'principal expence in the production of cards.
Now, the object of the present. apparatus is to transfer a design to cards
without the positions of the perforations being prescribed on the surface of the
5 design, the reading-in from an outline design only being effected by self-
acting means. This is accomplished by means of the design (which is made
in one or more layers) operating upon the needles which transfer the punches
to the perforating plates through the medium of a tweeling cylinder.
In Fig. 5, a shews a transverse section of the plate in which the punches

page_text: are deposited, and opposite to which the ordinary perforating plates are
placed, as shewn at b. The needles c, c, pass through holes in the plate a
behind the punches, as shewn, so that when the cylinder d presses against
any of the needles c, c, they will force the corresponding punches out of the
plate a into the perforating plates b. When the cylinder is withdrawn from
the needles c, c, they recover their position by means of the spiral springs
shewn at e, e.
The needles c are arranged in any number of rows or tiers corresponding
to the number required in the cards, and each row of needles is passed
through slots and vertical needles placed opposite the slots (as shewn also in
detail, Figs. 7 and 8,) whereby they may be placed opposite to two or more
varieties of tweels, satins, or grounds as may be arranged on the surface of the
cylinder d, or such varieties of tweels, satins, or grounds may be perforated
in metallic plates when the number of changes required precludes the use of
a cylinder with the requisite number of sides.
The design being cut in one or more layers, and tacked or otherwise
secured to the plate g (which is held underneath, but not touching the points
of the vertical needles by means of the springs h,) it will cause the vertical
needles to be raised to elevations according to the surface of the design;
consequently the horizontal needles c, c, will be acted upon by different
varieties of tweels, satins, or grounds, and thereby force the requisite arrange-
ment of punches into the plates b. A blank card having been previously
placed between the plates b, they are placed in an ordinary stamping press,
and the punches forced through the card; the plates are then returned to
their original position, where by means of the stud plate i the punches are
replaced in the plate a. Now, as the pattern plate g is moved slowly after
each action upon the vertical needles (by means of the ratchet wheel catch
and screw, as shewn,) every portion of the design will be acted upon in
succession.
The cylinder d is pressed against the needles by means of the treadle K,
and it is caused to revolve by means of the catch and lantern, as shewn.
The spring L forces back the cylinder after each operation, thereby bringing
the pulley M into contact with the cam O, which being depressed causes the
pattern plate g to advance (by means of the catch and lantern before men-
tioned) slowly after each action of the tweeling cylinder, thereby bringing
each portion of the design into contact with the vertical needles, which,
operating upon the punches through the medium of the tweeling cylinder
and horizontal needles, effects the necessary arrangement of punches in the
perforating plate, as described.

page_text: Having ascertained and described the nature of my Invention as set forth
in the Provisional Specification, I now proceed to shew how the same may be
applied to ordinary jacquard looms in common use.
Figs. 9 and 10 represent a side and an end elevation of an ordinary
jacquard machine (detached from the loom) to which the above-described
method of producing the design is applied.
The horizontal needles a, a, are passed through slots in the needle board,
and thence through vertical needles b, b, placed in front of the slots. The
vertical needles terminate in a single line or row immediately above the
pattern cylinder C, but their upper ends are arranged in several rows in order
to avoid contact of the eyelets. Each of the vertical needles have two eyelets
(as shewn in Figs. 9 and 11), and consequently each vertical needle governs
two of the horizontal needles. The object of this arrangement is to obtain
more space without materially altering the effect of the design; for it will be
observed, that although the pattern cylinder acts upon the horizontal needles
in pairs, the tweeling cylinder operates upon them individually, but a single
vertical needle may be used if required to each of the horizontal needles, as
shewn in Fig. 8. The vertical needles are also provided with a pressing bar,
as also shewn, and described in Figs. 1 and 3, and the needles are held in
position by the perforated plates, as shewn.
The tweeling cylinder d is placed in position of the ordinary jacquard
cylinder, and is made of sufficient width to allow space for perforating two or
more varieties of tweels, satins, or grounds. The needle board is likewise
made wider, but this does not necessitate any alteration in the width of the
spring box, although in many cases increased length of the horizontal needles
will be necessary, and consequently the needle board and tweeling cylinder
frame will require placing at farther distance from the body of the machine.
When a greater number of changes are required in producing any desired
combination of tweels, satins, or. grounds than can be conveniently produced
by sides of the cylinder only, then metallic plates may be used perforated
accordingly. On the cylinder shewn on Fig. 9 a metallic plate is shewn
perforated, so as to produce one change or pick each of plain weaving and five-
leaf satin, and it will be evident that all or any portion of the needles a, a,
may be acted upon by either description.
The pattern cylinder C with catches, lantern, and frame is constructed and
its mode of action is similar to that described in Figs. 1 and 2.
The vertical needles also are acted upon in like manner, and are arranged
in consecutive order corresponding to the arrangement of the hooks, harness,
and warp. The application and mode of working this jacquard apparatus in

page_text: connection with the loom does not differ from the ordinary method of doing
so, and which is well understood..
In Fig. 12 a method of connecting four of the horizontal needles to one of
the vertical needles is shewn, the object of which contrivance is to "throw up"
on the surface of the cloth any one or more of four different colours or
descriptions of warp, as required in some varieties of figured weaving; and this
is effected by placing one or more lines of tweels, satins, grounds, or blank
rows only on the surface of the cylinder, opposite to which any portion of the
needles may be placed. It will be evident that the tweeling cylinder admits of
various modifications both in the number and variety of tweels, satins, or
grounds, either placed longitudinally on the cylinder or otherwise, and the
vertical needles may also be arranged to suit any desired combinations of
design.
Having herein-before ascertained the nature of my Invention, and described
the several parts which are essential for carrying the same into effect, I do
not claim any of such parts separately as of my Invention; but I claim the
arrangement and combination of the various parts for the production of
figured fabrics, and for transferring designs to cards (as used in jacquard
machines), as herein-before described, and shewn in the annexed Sheet of
Drawings, or any modification thereof.
In witness whereof, I, the said Alfred Barlow, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Eighth day of April, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and fifty-eight.
Witness,
GEO. LEWIS WELLS,
81, Albert Street, Regent's Park.
ALFRED BARLOW. (L.S.)