Improvements in or Additions to Boots and Shoes.
Year: 1890

page_text: Date of Application, 10th Apr., 1890
Complete Specification Left, 12th Jan., 1891-Accepted, 21st Feb., 1891
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in or Additions to Boots and Shoes.
I, JOHN NELSON HEFFORD the Younger, of Queen Street, Derby, in the
County of Derby, Boot and Shoe Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of
this invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to the construction or formation of the parts of boots and
shoes, called the uppers, and the object of my said invention, is to make the said
uppers expanding, whereby the entrance or mouth of a boot or shoe is extended or
enlarged, for putting on, and taking off.
By my said invention, a piece of leather or other material, is inserted gusset-wise
in one side, or preferably in the two opposite sides of the boot or shoe, and by such
means, the upper admits of being enlarged for getting on or taking off, as aforesaid,
and contracted around the ankle and lower part of the leg, when the same is on.
In carrying out one form of my invention, as applied to a boot, whose upper may
extend in manner that the same may be used either for walking or for fishing
purposes-
I make the said upper of a back part, and a front one, the former extends from
the back to the front, to an extent nearly equal to that of an ordinary upper, whilst
the front part extends to about the middle of the said upper, and with the rears
of the said front part, overlapping the fronts of the said back part.
The terminal side edges of the front part, are connected to the side and over-
lapped edges of the back part, by inserted gusset or tongue pieces, which admits of
the said upper opening out from, and contracting itself upon the leg of a person,
whilst proof against the egress or entrance of wet, moisture, or dust.
The said upper with gusseted sides, to admit of expansion and contraction, is
alike unto an enclosed short "Wellington," but with parts adapted to fold flap wise
one upon another.
When the upper is closed, the gusseted or tongue-piece insertions, lie flat and
enclosed between the inside edges of the front part, and the outside, front edges of
the back part.
As a modification, I slit the two opposite sides of the upper, longitudinally from
the mouth or entrance, to the junction of the said upper, with the boot or shoe
part, and which slitting is directed obliquely from top to bottom, so as to follow the
general inclination of the said part.
Within the side slittings or subdivided parts, gussets or tongué pieces are inserted,
which admit of the upper opening out or contracting itself, as may be desired.
These gussets or tongue pieces, which are water and dust proof, are arranged to
fold flat with the adjacent edges of the slit parts.
if
Instead of employing a single gusset or tongue piece, upon one or both the
opposite sides I may employ two or more upright gussets upon either side, or
upon the opposite sides; and further, the said gussets or tongue pieces, may
necessary be shaped or blocked from an upper, cut from a single piece of leather.
The flaps or gusseted flappings thus formed or produced, may be kept in position,
by buttons, strappings, or by other means.
When straps are employed I proceed as follows:-
I secure the inner ends of free straps to one side of the front part; then pass the
same through loops, connected to the back part, and return the free ends of the
straps forwardly around the front part, and then connect their extreme free ends to
buckles of straps, connected and carried at the other side of the front part and
passed through loops connected to the other side of the back part, by which means,

page_text: the said extending or expanding uppers are fastened or secured tightly around the
leg or ankle of the person wearing them.
The application of my invention to other water and dust proof boots and shoes,
differs in no essential respect from its application to that of a boot, as herein
described.
Improvements in or Additions to Boots and Shoes.
I, JOHN NELSON HEFFORD the Younger, of Queen Street, Derby, in the
County of Derby, Boot and Shoe Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of
this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This invention relates to the construction or formation of the parts of boots and
shoes, called the uppers, and the object of my said invention, is to make the said
uppers, expanding, whereby the entrance or month of a boot or shoe, is extended or
enlarged, for putting on, and taking off.
By my said invention, a piece of leather or other material, is inserted gusset wise
in one side, or preferably in the two opposite sides of the boot or shoe, and by such
means, the upper admits of being enlarged, for getting on, or taking off, as aforesaid,
and contracted around the ankle and lower part of the leg, when the same is on.
In carrying out one form of my invention, as applied to a boot, whose upper may
extend in manner, that the same may be used either for walking, or for fishing
purposes, I make the said upper of a back part, and a front one, the former extends
from back to front, to an extent nearly equal to that of an ordinary upper, whilst
the front part extends to about the middle of the said upper, and with the rears of
the said front part, overlapping the fronts of the said back part.
The terminal side edges of the front part, are connected to the side and over-
lapped edges of the back part, by inserted gusset or tongue pieces, which admits of
the said upper opening out from, and contracting itself upon, the leg of a person,
whilst proof against the egress or entrance of wet, moisture, or dust.
The said upper, with gusseted sides, to admit of expansion and contraction, is
alike unto an enclosed short "Wellington," but with parts adapted to fold flapwise
one upon another.
When the upper is closed, the gusseted or tongue piece insertions, lie flat and
enclosed between the inside edges of the front part, and the outside front edges of
the back part.
As a modification, I slit the two opposite sides of the upper, longitudinally from
the mouth or entrance, to the junction of the said upper, with the boot or shoe part,
and which slitting, is directed obliquely from top to bottom, so as to follow the
general inclination of the said part.
Within the side slittings, or subdivided parts, gussets or tongue pieces are
inserted, which admit of the upper opening out, or contracting itself, as may be
desired.
These gussets or tongue pieces, which are water and dust proof, are arranged to
fold flat with the adjacent edges of the slit parts.
Instead of employing a single gusset or tongue piece, upon one or the opposite
sides, I may employ two or more upright gussets upon either side, or upon the
opposite sides, and further, the said gussets or tongue picces, may if necessary be
shaped or blocked from an upper, cut from a single piece of leather.

page_text: Ine maps or gusseted mappings thus formed or prounced, may be kept in
by buttons, strappings, or by other means.
When straps are employed, I proceed as follows:-
I secure the inner ends of free straps, to one side of the front part; then pass
the same through loops, connected to the back part, and return the free ends of the
straps forwardly around the front part, and then connect their extreme free ends,
to buckles of straps, connected and carried at the other side of the front part, and
passed through loops, connected to the other side of the back part, by which means
the said extending or expanding uppers, are fastened or secured tightly around the
leg or ankle of the person wearing them.
The application of my invention, to other water and dust proof boots and shoes,
differs in no essential respect from its application to that of a boot, as herein
described.
Figure 1 of the accompanying drawings, represents in side elevation, a boot
provided with expanding uppers, (closed) constructed and arranged according to
my said invention, whereby the mouth or entrance to the said boot, is extended
or enlarged, for putting on, or taking off, and when put on, the same admits
of being contracted or gathered around the ankle or lower part of the leg.
By providing the uppers of boots as represented the same are both water and
dust proof.
It will be seen that the expansion is admitted, consequent upon the employ-
ment upon the two opposite sides of the boot, (or upon one side only) of insertioned
gussets.
Figure 2 represents a transverse section of the said uppers upon the dotted
lines A B Figure 1. . It also shows the front and back parts of the upper, and how
the same are connected together on both sides by an insertion, disposed gusset-wise
between the front and back parts; and further, it shows bracing together of the
said front and back parts, when the boot is upon the foot, and in usc.
Figure 3 represents a like view as Figure 1, but with the upper shown open, out-
stretched, or expanded, and in the positions which the parts assume for putting on,
or taking off.
Figure 4 represents a transverse or horizontal section, upon the dotted lines CD
Figure 3, exemplifying how, by the straightening out of the insertioned gussets,
the mouth, or entrance to the boot, is expanded or outstretched in positions suitable
for the introduction or withdrawal of the foot, and putting on or taking off of the
boot as aforesaid.
Figure 5 represents a perspective view of the upper of the boot Figure 3.
Figure 6 represents a top side plan of Figure 3, with the upper provided with an
inside disposed elastic, for drawing the parts together when in use, without the
employment of bracing straps, as in the preceding figures.
a is the lower part of the boot, 6 the "upper," consisting of a back part c, and
a front part d, the sides of the former extending forwardly on both sides from back,
to beyond the middle part, and nearly meeting, whilst the latter extends backwards
on both sides, to about the middle part, so that the meeting edges of the said rear
and front parts, overlap each other, when in use, on the two opposite sides of the
upper, as best seen in Figures 1 and 2.
The terminal side edges d², of the front part, are connected or jointed (water and
dust proof) to the terminal side edges c², of the back part, by insertioned gussets or
tongue pieces e, which admits of the sides of the said upper, or the upper itself,
being outstretched, opened out, or contracted, for the purpose aforesaid.
fis an upper bracing strap, g is an ankle strap, and is an instep strap, for
drawing and holding together the said front and back parts, when in a contracted
position, as in Figures 1 and 2.
It will be seen from the section Figure 2, that the leather constituting the
insertions, or insertioned gussets e, is made from a single length of leather or
material with the two opposite sides starting at ³, passing along the inside of the
front d to e³, then returning upon the outside, or near the outside, of the fore

page_text: part of the back part e, and passing completely around the said back part, hence
the making of the said upper, with its expanding sides, perfectly water, and dust
proof.
It will be also observed, that the return of the insertions at e³, follows entirely
the boundary sides of the back parts, r, ², c³, and which parts c³, when closed,
have their edges c2, coming nearly together, as best seen in the plan Figure 2.
In Figure 6, is the front part, c is the back part, e the tongue insertioned
gussets, and an inside elastic, for automatically bringing the parts, in their
gathered in, or contracted positions, around the ankle and lower part of the leg.
It is understood, that the interposed or let in gussets, are connected to the lower
part of the boot, in manner to be water and dust proof, and further, that the said
gusset may be made of any suitable material, such as mackintosh caoutchouc, and
the like.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that
what I claim is :--
:-
First In the uppers of boots and shoes, providing a side, or the opposite sides,
of the said uppers, with insertions, gussets, or intervening tongue-like pieces, or
other like let-in parts, substantially as and for the purpose as described and set
forth.
Secondly In the uppers of boots and shoes, making the same with side
insertions, gussets, or tongue pieces, from a single piece, and from the leather or
material of the said uppers, as described.
Thirdly The uppers of boots and shoes, consisting of a back part, and a front
part, with the front edges of the former approaching each other, or nearly
approaching each other, and with the said front part overlapping the fore part of
the said back, and with the said parts connected together, by an insertion, gusset,
or let-in part, substantially as described and set forth.
Fourthly-In expanding uppers, providing the same with a continuous insertion,
gusset, or part e, e, e, arranged in respect to the back and front parts, substantially
as described and set forth.
:
Fifthly In the expanding uppers of boots and shoes, arranging, and combining,
the insertions with the said uppers, as described and illustrated, and which said
parts are held or drawn together, by means substantially as set forth in the several
figures of the drawings.
Dated this 10th day of January 1890.
JOHN NELSON HEFFORD, THE YOUNGER.
By Henry Skerrett,
6, Livery Street, Birmingham, Agent for Applicant.

page_text: Date of Application, 10th Apr., 1890
Complete Specification Left, 10th Jan., 1891-Accepted, 14th Feb., 1891.
PROVISIONAL STUITIVATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Metal Mounts and Lids for
Jars for Jams, Butters, Biscuits, and other articles.
I HENRY PARKER trading as Henry Swadkins and Co. of 94 Garrard Street
Lozells near Birmingham in the County of Warwick Fine Art and Electroplate
Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention consists in attaching the handles or ornaments onto the metal
mounts or the lids of jars for jams butters biscuits and other articles without the
use of solder in the following manner; namely I pierce or otherwise form a hole or
holes in the metal mounts or lids and pass through from the inner or under sides
thereof into hollows or recesses in the handles or ornaments metal eyelets rivets
screws or pins which when closed down hold the parts firmly together.
DJ f : 1900
HENRY F. TALBOT,
7, Cherry Street, Birmingham, Agent for the Applicant.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Metal Mounts and Lids for
Jars for Jams, Butters, Biscuits, and other articles.
I HENRY PARKER trading as Henry Swadkins & Co. of 94 Gerrard Street
Lozells near Birmingham in the County of Warwick Fine Art and Electroplate
Manufacturer do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement, reference being had to the drawings and to the letters
and figures marked thereon:-
This invention consists in attaching the handles or ornaments into the metal
mounts or the lids of jars for jams butters biscuits and any other articles without
the use of solder in the following manner; namely I pierce or otherwise form a
hole or holes in the metal mounts or lids and pass through from the inner or under
sides thereof into hollows or recesses in the handles or ornaments metal eyelets
rivets or pins which when closed down hold the parts firmly together. Or I can
tap the holes for screws and insert screws therein.
Referring to the drawings
Fig. 1 is a view of the biscuit jar having the balls or ornaments (a) to which
the handle (6) is attached and the ball or handle (c) on the lid (d) all constructed
according to my invention. I have only illustrated these parts (a) & (c) of a
plain character but it will be obvious that they may be of any suitable ornamental
design.
Fig. 2 is an enlarged section of the ornament (a) with a hole in it at (e) and
showing the mount (f) pierced with the eyelet (g) inserted and closed to hold the
parts together.
Fig. 3 is an enlarged view of the same parts but the holes or piercings are
tapped with the screw threads and held together by the screw (h).
The centre ornament (c) may be attached to the lid (d) in the same way as
a is to the mount (f) and if any other ornaments were required to be attached
to the mounts the handles of the description of articles to which my invention
applies they would be fixed in any of the ways above mentioned one object being
to avoid the use of solder.

page_text: Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is.
Attaching the handles and ornaments into the metal mounts or the lids of jars
for jams biscuits and other articles substantially as herein set forth and
illustrated.
Dated this 9th day of January 1891
HENRY F. TALBOT,
7, Cherry Street, Birmingham, Agent for the Applicant.