Improvements in Apparatus for Drafting Patterns of Garments.
Year: 1896

page_text: Date of Application, 28th Sept., 1896-Accepted, 14th 'Nov., 1896
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Apparatus for Drafting Patterns of Garments.
I, MARGARET CLARKE, of 39, Finlay Drive, Dennistoun, in the County of
Glasgow, North Britain, Dressmaker, do hereby declare the nature of this
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement, that is to say :-
My said invention has for its object to provide improved apparatus by means of
which patterns of garments-and especially such as are to be worn by ladies or
children can be drafted more expeditiously and accurately than has hitherto
generally been effected.
The improved apparatus consists of several templets or charts made of cardboard,
wood, celluloid, or other suitable material on which are marked scales and arrows,
by means of which, as the charts are applied in various positions, points in the
patterns to be drafted can be found. The charts are further specially shaped round
their edges and formed with slots in their body parts, such edges and slots being
adapted to give, on a proper application of the chart, curved or straight lines to
join the various points which have been previously found, and thereby form the
contour of the pattern to be drafted.
And in order that my said invention and the manner of performing the same may
be properly understood, I hereunto append eight sheets of explanatory drawings
to be hereinafter referred to, and on which are delineated my improved templets or
charts, and also, by way of example, several patterns of parts a lady's gown and a
boy's suit of clothes, to show how the charts or templets are to be applied.
Figures, 1, and 2, on Sheet, 1, of the drawings are views of the opposite sides of
one of my improved charts.
Figures, 3, and 4, on Sheet, 2, are views of the opposite sides of another of my
improved charts.
Figures, 5, 6, and 7, on Sheet, 3, and 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, and 13, on Sheet, 4,
represent (in outline merely) patterns of several parts of a lady's gown, which
can be drafted by the charts shown in Figures, 1, 2, 3, and 4.
Figures, 14, and 15, on Sheet, 5, are views of the opposite sides of another of my
improved charts.
Figures, 16, and 17, on Sheet, 6, are views of the opposite sides of another of
my improved charts.
Figures, 18, and 19, on Sheet, 7, are views of the opposite sides of a piece of
cardboard, on which various scales are marked, and which is used in combination
with my improved charts shown in Figures, 14, 15, 16, and 17.
Figures, 20, on Sheet, 7, and 21, 22, and 23, on Sheet, 8, represent (in outline
merely) patterns of a boy's suit of clothes which cau be drafted by the charts
shown in Figures, 14, 15, 16, and 17.
In these drawings the same reference letters and numerals are used to mark the
same or like parts wherever they are repeated; and in those figures representing
the patterns, dotted lines are to be understood as being construction lines merely.
The improved charts, shown in Figures, 1, 2, 3, and 4, and which are principally
used in drafting patterns of ladies' garments, are made of cardboard, and are
shaped so as each to have two straight edges, at right angles to cach other and of
different lengths, to give two base lines from which other lines or points in the
patterns may be drawn or found. The remainder of the outer edge of each chart
is formed with curves, and the body of the chart is made with slots and

page_text: perforations and marked with scales and arrows the use of which curves, slots,
perforations, scales and arrows is hereinafter explained.
When it is desired to make a boddice of a lady's gown of usual measurements
say;-
Neck
Bust
12 inches
36 do.
22 do.
38 do:
5 do.
16
do.
Waist
Hips
Shoulder
Back length
Under arm
Front length
9 do.
17 do.
four patterns are drafted, which together make half the boddice, and these patterns
are afterwards traced out on double cloth by means of a tracing wheel.
In drafting the pattern of the front part of the boddice (shown in Figure, 5)
two base lines, A, and B, at right angles to each other, are first set out by means
of the long and short straight edges of the chart shown in Figures, 1, and 2.
A dot, AI, is then made on the line, B, opposite 17 inches on the ordinary inch
scale of the chart, according to the measurement taken. A dot, A 3, is then made
at size, 12, of the front neck scale according to measurement, and a dot, A 5, at, M,
of the front shoulder slope slot. Place the templet or chart so that the point of
the arrow, A 7, of the neck curve (which is part of a slot formed in the body of
the chart) coincides with dot, A 3, and so that size, 12, of the front neck scale
coincides with the line, A, and draw a curved line, B 1, from dot, A3, to
dot, B2, where the lines, A, and B1, meet. The line, B1, represents the
front neck seam. Join dots, B 2, and, Á 5, by a straight line, B3, and make a
dot, A 6, on that line at a distance of 5 inches from the point, B2, according to the
shoulder measurement. The line, B 3, represents the shoulder seam. Next place
the chart with the neck curve arrow, B4, coinciding with dot, A 6, and with the
edge,. B, parallel to the line, B, (a guide for which is the placing of one or other
of the lines, Z 1, upon the line, A) and make a dot, B 5, at 12, of the front-arm-
hole scale. Then place the chart with the edge A, coinciding with the line, B,
and the edge, B, upon the point, B 5, and make a dót B 6, at size, 36, of the front-
bust scale according to measurement, and from dot, B 6, draw a line, B 8, to cut
the line, B, at right angles. The line, B 8, forms a guide to the depth of the
arm hole.
The chart shown in Figures, 3, and 4, is now placed with its édge, A, upon the
line, B 8, and its corner, B-9, upon dot, B 6, and a line, C, is drawn down the long
edge, B, of the chart from a dot, C 1, made opposite the arrow, C2, on the chart.
Make a dot, C3, at 9 inches on the inch scale according to the under-arm measure-
ment taken. Place the chart with its short edge, A, upon the line, C, and its long
edge, 13, upon dot, A 1, and draw a line, C 5, to dot, A 1; through a dot, C 6, made
opposite the arrow, C2. Make a dot, C7, at size, 22, of the waist scale according
to measurement. The distance from dot, C 7, to dot, A 1, is then measured and
material that size in width is eliminated in darts.
Darts are deep seams due to the elimination of approximately diamond-shaped
pieces of the material at the front of the waist part of the boddice to secure the
required circumferential contraction of the garment at that part. The dart scale
for French darts consists of a series of slots formed in the body of the chart, and
having ench two sides parallel to the edge, B, and all one end parallel to and at a
uniform distance from the edge, A. The slots are of directly proportionate different
lengths and are marked with lines and sizes, arranged, on a proper application of
the chart, to give the required widths of the darts. Thus in the pattern being
drafted the amount of material to be eliminated in darts is found to be 3 inches
this being the distance from the point, C7, to the point, A 1., The chart is
therefore placed with its edge, A, upon the line, B, and the size 34 on that edge

page_text: upon the point, A 1, and dots, D1, D2, D3, D4, D5, and D 6, are marked off on
the line, C5, opposite each 31 marked on the dart scale. The distance between
dots, D1, and D3, is the width of the first dart and the distance between dots, D4,
and D6, is the width of the second dart. Next place the chart with its edge, A,
upon the line, B 8, and its edge B, upon dot, D'5, and make dots, D 7, and D 8,
respectively opposite dart arrow, D 9, and arrow, E. The chart is then moved
along the line, B8, till the edge, B. is upon dot, D 2, and corresponding
dots, E1, E2, are made opposite arrows, D 9, and E. Draw straight lines, E 3,
and E4, from dot, D 8, to dots, D 4, and D 6, and also straight lines, E 5, and E 6,
from dot, E 2, to dots, D1, and D3. The lines E 3, and E4, E5 and E6,
represent the dart seams below the waist. Next place the chart so that the
corner, E7, of the dart curves (these being formed by a slot made in the chart) is
upon dot, D 6, and the curved edge of the slot upon dot, D 7, then draw a curved
line, E 9, from dot, D 7, to the dot, D 6. Draw similar lines, G, G 1, and G.2, in
a similar way from dot D 7, to dot, D4, and from dot E 1, to dots, D 1, and D3.
These lines E 9, G, G 1, and G 2, represent the dart seams above the waist. Also
draw a straight line, G 3, from dot, C 1, to dot, C 6. This line, G 3, represents
the seam of the front and front quarter pieces of the boddice. Next place the
chart with the dart-curve arrow, G4, upon dot, C 6, and with the hip arrow, G5,
upon the line, C, and draw a line, G 6, to a point opposite 3 inches on the hip:
extension scale. Next place the front arrow, G 7, upon the point, A1, and the
front-extension size 1 ou the end of the line, B, and draw a line, E 8, from the
front arrow to the end of the edge, B, of the chart. A dot, G 8, is then made on
the line, B, 24 inches above the line, C5, and another dot, G 9, 1 inch above the
line, B8. The chart is then placed with the bust arrow, H, upon dot, G 8, and
with the concave edge upon dot, G 9, and a line, A 8, is drawn from the point, G 8,
to the point, G 9, along the concave edge. The chart is then moved along so that
the concave edge is upon dots, A 3, and G 9, and the curved line is produced to
join these points. Next place the chart with the arm-hole arrow, F 1, upon dot, C 1,
and with the sleeve front curve upon dot, A 6, and draw a curved line, F, joining
these points. This completes the drafting of the pattern for the front part of the
boddice.
When drafting patterns of the front part of the boddice for persons for which.
French darts are not suited, a dart scale for giving common darts is provided on
one of the charts as shown in Figure, 4. The common dart scale is employed in a
similar way to the French dart scale. The frunt quarter is the piece which joins
the front piece and the back quarter of the boddice, and a pattern for an example
of this piece is shown in Figure, 6. To draft the pattern for this piece place the.
chart (shown in Figures, 1, and 2,) in a convenient position, and draw a line, H 2,
down the shorter side of the slot, H 3, from the front-quarter size, 9, .to waist
arrow, H 4, also draw a line, H 5, dewn the slot, H 6, from the size, 9, to waist
arrow, H 7, in accordance with the given under-arm measurement; make a dot, H 8,
opposite hip arrow, H 9, and a dot, J, opposite hip arrow, F 4. Next place the
chart with the arrow, J 2, of the hip front curve on the lower end of the line, H 5,
and the curved edge of the slot upon dot, H 8, and draw a line, .J 4, from the
arrow, J 2, 3 inches long or thereby. Next place the arrow, J 5, on the end of...
line, H2, with the other curved side of the slut, J3, upon dot, J, and draw a
curved line, X, from arrow, J5, 34 inches long or thereby, The arrow, J 6, of
the neck curve is placed upon the top end of the line, H 5, with the curved side of.
the slot upon the top end of the line, H 2, and line, J 8, is drawn joining the ends.
of the lines, H 5, and H 2. The line, H 2, represents the seam joining the front
quarter and back quarter pieces; the line, H 5, the seam joining the front quarter
and front pieces; and the line, J 8, the arm-hole scam.
The pattern for the back piece of the boddice is shown in Figure, 7, and to
draft this pattern the chart shown in Figures, 1, and 2, is placed in a convenient
position, and lines, A, anil B, are drawn along the edges, A, and B: a dot, K, is
made opposite 16 inches on the inch scale in accordance with the measurement.

page_text: upon dot, T 5, and the long curved edge upon dot, T 8, and a line, U 2, is drawn
from dot, T 5, to dot T 8.
The pattern for the side of the back of the gown skirt is shown in Figure, 12,
and for drafting this pattern the chart shown in Figures, 1, and 2, is used and the
usual base lines, A, and B, are first laid off. Make a dot, U 3, on line, A, 5 inches
distant from line, B, and a dot, U 4, on 1 inches from line, A. Produce the
line, B, to a point, U 5, 40 inches distant from line, A, according to the measure-
ment taken. Next place the chart with the corner, F, upon dot, U 5, and with
the edge, A, upon the line, B, and a line, U 6, from dot, U 5, to a dot, S8,
opposite, 23, inches on the scale. A straight line, U 7, is drawn from dot, U 3, to
the dot, S 8, and make a dot, U 8, 40 inches distant from dot, U 3, according to
measurement. Join dots, U 3, and U 4, by a straight line, U 9. The chart is
then placed so that skirt arrow, M. 1, coincides with dot, U 5, and the long curve
with dot, U 8, and a curved line, V, is drawn from dot, U 8, to dot, U.
The pattern for the centre back piece of the gown skirt is shown in Figure, 13,
and for drafting this pattern the chart shown in Figures, 1, and 2, is used the
lines, A, and B, being laid off first. A dot, V 1, is then made on line, A, 3 inches
from line, B. Line, B, is then produced to a dot, V 2, distant 40 inches from
line, A, according to measurement. The chart is then placed with corner, M 1,
upon dot, V 2, and with the short edge, A, upon the line, B, and a line, V 3, is then
drawn from a point, M 6, opposite 13 inches on the scale to dot, V 2. Join
dots, V 1, and M 6, by the line, V 4, and make a dot, V 5, on line, V 4, 4 inches
distant from dot, V 1. The chart is then placed with skirt arrow, M 1, on dot, V 2,
and with the long curve upon dot, V 5, and a curved line, V 6, is drawn from
dot, V 2, to dot, V 5.
Charts for drafting patterns of children's garments are shown in Figures, 14, 15, 16,
and 17. They are without straight edges being made wholly with curved edges
and they are made with slots and marked with scales and arrows, the use of which
curves, scalés, slots and arrows is hereinafter explained. In combination with
these charts there are employed measurers an example of which is shown in
Figures, 18, and 19. Each measurer consists of a rectangular piece of cardboard
on which are marked ordinary inch scales and graduated or modified inch scales
such as are commonly used by tailors. In describing the application of the charts
and measurers it will be necessary to frequently mention a number of different
measurements on ordinary and graduated scales. For convenience therefore
contractions, O.S. for ordinary scale and G.S. for graduated scale-are adopted
in the following description.
In drafting for example patterns for a boy's suit of clothes of ordinary
measurements say :-
Neck
Bust
Waist
Hips
Neck to waist
Neck to hips
11 inches
24 do.
24
do.
=3
24
do.
11
do.
=
18
do.
the jacket is drafted in two pieces termed front and back pieces for which a
pattern is shown in Figure, 20. These two pieces are drafted in one pattern and
make half the jacket, the pattern after being drafted being traced out on double,
cloth.
.
A line, 1A, is first set out by means of the longer edge of the measurer and
dots, 2 A, and, 3 A; are made at 11 and 19 inches O.S. distant from one end, the
latter dot marking of the back length of the jacket. Next place the measurer with
one short edge upon the line, 1 A, and with corner, 4 A, upon the top end of that line
and draw a line, 5 A, from thence 21 inches G.S. 12 long. Make dots, 6 A, 7 A, 8A,
and 9 A, respectively 24, 16, 18, and 21 inches G.S. 12 distant from the line, 1 A.

page_text: Next make a dot, 1 B, 3 inches G.S. 12 below dot, 8 A, and at the same distance
from the line, 1A, as that dot. Also make a dot, 2 B, inch G.S. 12 above dot, 6A,
and at the same distance as that dot from the line, 1 A. Next place the straight
edge of the measurer with the corner, 4 A, at the top of line, 1 A, and the graduated.
scale 12 along the line, I A, and make a dot, 3 B, at 4 inches G.S. 12 and a dot, 4-B,
at 9 inches G.S. 12, down on line, 1A. By means of the measurer draw from
dot, 3 B, a line 6 B, 5 inches O.S. long at right angles to the line, l'A. The
line, 6 B, represents the width of the back. Next place the measurer with the
corner, 4 A, upon dot, 4 B, and with one short edge upon the line, 1A, and draw a
line, 7 B, from dot, 4 B. to a point opposite 21 inches on G.S. 12. Make on
line, 7 B, dots, 8 B, 9 B, and 1C, respectively distant from the line, 1 A, 8, 9, and
12 inches G.S. 12. Next make a dot, 2C, 1 inches G.S. 12 above dot, 1C, a
dot 3C, of an inch G.S. 12 out from dot, 2C, and also a dot, 4 C, 1inches G.S. 12
above dot 8 B. Make a dot, 5 C, of an inch G.S. 12, in from dot, 4 C, that is
nearer the line, 1 A. Next place the measurer with corner, 4 A, upon dot, 2 A, and
with one short edge upon the line, 1 A, and draw a line, 6 C, 21 inches G.S. 12 long.
The measurer is then placed with corner, 7 C, upon dot, 2 A, and with one short
edge upon the line, IA, whereupon a dot, 8 C, is made at 4 inches O.S. and a
dot, 9C, at 5 inches O.S. Next place the measurer with corner, 7 C, upon dot, 3 A,
and with one short edge upon the line, 1 A, and draw from dot, 3 A, a line, I D, to
a dot, 2D, 4 inches O.S. distant. Make on line, 1 D, a dot, 3 D, 14 inches G.S. 12
distant from dot 2 D.
The measurer is then placed with corner, 7 C, upon dut, 9 A, and with one long
straight edge upon. the end of the line, 6 C, and a straight line, 4 D, is drawn
20 O.S. long. This line, 4D, represents the front of the jacket where it is
buttoned. The measurer is afterwards placed with one straight edge upon dot, 2 B,
and upon the end of line, 6 B, and a line, 5 D, is drawn from dot, 2 B, to the end
of line, 6 B. Next place the measurer with one straight edge upon dots, 7 A,
and, 3 13, and draw from dot, 7 A, a line 4 inches O.S. long towards dot, 3 B, to
a dot, X. Lines, 5 D, and 6 D, represent the shoulder seam.
The chart shown in Figures, 14, and 15, is theu placed so that arrow, 7 D,
coincides with dot, 3 C, and the arm-hole curve is upon dot, 1 X, and a curved
line is then drawn to join dots, 3 C, and 1 X. Next place the chart so that
arrow, 9D, is upon dot, 1 C, and the curved edge upon dot, 3 C, and produce the
line, 8 D, to join dots, 3 C, and, 1 C. The chart is then placed so that arrow, 9D,
is upon dot, 1 C, and, the curved edge upon dot, 4 C, and the line, 8 D, is then
.produced to join these dots.
The chart is next placed with arrow, 7 C, upon the point, 2 X, of section of
lines, 5 D, and, 6 B, and with the back curve upon dot, 5C, a curved line, 1 E,
being then drawn from dot 5 C, to dot, 2 X. The line, 1 E, represents the back-
arm-hole seain.
:
The chart shown in Figures, 16, and 17, is next placed with the under-arm
size, 11, of the jacket curve upon dot, 9 C, and with the curve upon dot, 4 C, and
a line, 2 E, is drawn to join dots, 9 C, and 4 C. Next place the chart with side-
waist size, 11, upon dot, 9 C, and with the curve upon dot, 3 D, and draw a line, 3 E,
to join dots, 9 C, and 3 D. Next place the chart with sleeve arrow, 4 E, upon
dot, 8 C, and with. the end of sleeve curve upon dot, 5 C, and draw a line, 5 E, from
doi, 5 C, to dot, 8 C. Next place the chart with arrow, 6 E, upon dot, 2 D, and
with the sleeve curve upon dot, 8 C, and draw a line, 7 E, to join dots, 8 C, and 2 D.
Lines, 3E, 2 E, 7 E, and 5 B, represent the side seams of the jacket. Next place
the chart with the end of the sleeve curve upon dot, 3 D, and with the long curve
upon the end of line, 4 D, and draw a line, 8 E, from the end of line, 4.D, to
dot, 3 D. The chart is then placed with size 11 of the jacket front curve on the
point, 4X, of section of the lines, 6 C, and 4 D, and with the hip curve upon the
line, 8 E, and a curved line, 9 E, is drawn from the line, 8 E, to dot 4 X. Next
place the chart with the back neck with arrow, 1 F, upon dot, 2 B, and with the
curve upon the point, 5 X, of section of the lines, 1 A, and 5 A, and join dots, 2 B,

page_text: '
and 5 X, by a curved line, 2 F. The chart is afterwards placed with front neck
size, 12, upon dot, 7 A, and with the curve upon dot, 1 B, and a line, 3 F, is drawn
from dot, 7 A, through dot, 1 B, to meet line, 4 D.
an
The sleeve of a boy's jacket is made up of two pieces which are drafted together
in one pattern as shown in Figure, 21. Ordinary measurements are assumed viz.:-
15 inches in length, 8 inches from shoulder to elbow, and 7 inches from elbow to
wrist. Place the measurer in a convenient position and draw a straight line, 1 G,
along the long edge and make dots, 2 G, and 3 G, at 8, and 15 inches from one end.
Next place the measurer with the corner, 7 C, on dot 3 G, and with one short
edge upon the line, 1 G, and draw from dot, 3 G, a line, 5 G, at right angles to
line, 1 G, to a dot 6 G, 6 inches distant. Make a dot, 7 G, on the line, 5 G, of
an iuch from dot, 6 G, and also a dot, 8 G, an inch from dot, 7 G. Next place
the measurer with the corner, 5 B, at the top of line, 1 G, and with one short
edge upon the line, 1 G, and draw a line, 2 H, at right angles to the line, 1 G, to a
dot, 1 H, 6 inches distant O.S. Bisect the line, 2 H, at the point, 3 H. Next
place the measurer with the corner, 5 B, upon dot, 1 H, and with the long edge
upon dot, 6 G, and draw a line, 2 J, from dot, 6 G, to dot, 1 H. Make a dot, 4 H,
on the line, 2 J, 8 inches O.S. from dot, 1 H. Make dots, 5 H, and 6 H,
inch O.S. each directly to the left respectively of dots, 4 H and 2 G. Next make
dot, 7 H, 1 inch G.S. 12 directly above dot, 3 H, and also a dot, 8 H, on the
line, 1 G, 4 inches G.S. 12 from the line, 2 H. Next take the chart shown in
Figures, 16, and 17, and place the sleeve arrow, 9 H, on dot, 7 H. and with the
curved edge upon dot, 8 H, and draw a curved line, 9 G, from dot, 7 H, to dot, 8 H.
Next move the chart until the sleeve arrow, 9H, is upon dot, 7 H, and the curve
towards corner, 5 F, is upon dot, 1H, and draw a line, 4 F, from dot, 7 H, to
dot, 1 H. Next place the chart with sleeve arrow, 6 F, upon dot, 1 H, and with
the long curve upon dot, 5 H, and draw a curved line, 3J, from dot, 1 H, to
dot, 5 H. The chart is then placed with sleeve arrow, 4 J, upon dot, 7 G, and
with the long curved edge upon dot, 5 H, and draw a line, 6 X, from dot, 5 H, to
dot, 7 G. The chart is afterwards placed with sleeve arrow, 6 F, upon dot, 8 H,
and with the long curve upon dot, 6 H, and draw a line, 5 J, from dot, 6 H, to
dot 8 H. Next place the chart with arrow, 6 F, upon dot, 6 H, and with the
long curve upon dot, 3 G, and produce line, 5 J, from dot, 6 H, to dot, 3 G.
Next place the chart with arrow, 6 F, upon dot, 5 H, and with the long curve upon
dot, 8 G, and draw a line, 6 J, from dot, 8 G, to dot, 5 H. Next place the chart
with arrow, 7 J, on the neck curve upon dot, 8 H, and with the curved edge upon
dot, 1 H, and draw a line, 8 J, from dot, 8 H, to dot, 1 H. The lines, 4 F, 9 G,
and 8 J, represent the seams which join into the shoulder part of the jacket.
The lines, 3 J, 6J, and 6X, represent the back seams of the sleeve and the
line, 5 J, the frout seam of the sleeve.
The trousers of a boy's suit of clothes are drafted in two pieces, which represent
half the trousers and patterns for which are shown in Figures 22, and 23. Ordinary
measurements are assumed miz.:-trousers' waist 24 inches, hips = 24 inches,
inside leg 9 inches and outside leg = 18 inches.
The pattern for the front piece of the trousers is shown in Figure, 22, and to
draft this pattern first place measurer in a convenient position and draw a line, 1 K,
down the long edge 18 inches O.S. long. Then make dots, 2 K, and 3 K,
respectively at 9 and 18 inches O.S. on line, 1 K. Corner, 7 C, of the measurer is
then placed upon dot, 3 K, with one short edge upon line 1 K, and a line, 5 K, is
drawn at right angles to the line, 1 K, from dot, 3 K, to a point. 6 inches distant.
This line, 5 K, represents half the width of the trouser leg at the bottom. Bisect
the line, 5 K, at a point, 6 K. Next place the measurer with corner, 5 B, upon a
dot, 7 X, at the upper end of line, 1 K, and with one short edge upon the line, 1 K,
and draw a line, 8 K, normal to the line, 1 K, 6 inches O.S. long from dot, 7 X.
This line, 8 K, represents the quarter width of the waist. Thereafter make a
dot. 9 K, upon the line, 1 K, 44 inches G.S. 12 above dot, 2 K. Next place the
measurer with the corner, 7 K, upon dot, 9 K, and with one short edge upon the

page_text: line, 1 K, and make a dot, 1 L, at 'the long edge 6 inches G.S. 12 distant from
dot, 9 K. The measurer is then placed with corner, 7 K, upon dot 6 K, aud with
the long edge upon dot 1 L. and a line, 2 L, is drawn from dot, 6 K, to meet the
line, 8 K, at a point, 3 L. Next place corner, 7 K, of the measurer upon dot, 1 L,
and make a line, 2 L, a dot, 4 L, at 44 inches G.S. 12 down from dot, 1 L. Then -
place corner, 7 L, of the measurer upon dot, 4 L, with one short edge upon the
line, 2 L, and make dot, 5 L, at 3 inches G.S. 12 from dot, 4 L.
dot, 5 F, at 6 inches G.S. 12 from dot, 4 L, and draw a line, 6 L, from dot, 5 F,
through dot, 4 L, to meet the line, 1 K.
Make a
A dot, 7 L, is then made 3 inches G.S. 12 distant from and to the left of dot, 3 L,
upon the line, 8 K. Join dots, 5 L, and, 7 L, by a straight line, 8 L. Join dot, 5 F,
to the left end of the line, 5 K, by a straight line, 1 N. Next place corner, 7 K,
upon the point, 3 L, and with one long edge upon the line, 2 L, and draw a line, 9 L,
from dot, 3 L, to meet the line, 1 K, produced. Upon the line, 1 K, make dots, 1 M,.
and 2 M, respectively 1 and 24 inches O.S. distant from the point, 8 X, of section
of lines, 1 K, and 9 L. Make a dot, 3 M, t of an inch O.S. directly to the left of
dot, 1M. Upon the line, 8 L, make a dot, 4 M, 1 inches down from dot, 7 L.
Join the points, 3 M, and 4 M, by a straight line, 5 M. The chart shown
in Figures, 16, and 17, is then taken and the trousers-front-curve size, 2, is placed
upon dot, 5 F, with the long curve upon dot, 7 L, and a curvel line, 6 M, is drawn
from dot, 5 F, to dot, 7 L. The chart is then placed with arrow, 7 M, upon
dot, 2 M, and with the trousers curve upon dot, 3 M, and a curved line, 8 M, is
drawn from dot, 2 M, to dot, 3 M. Next place the chart with arrow, 7 M, upon
dot, 2 M, and with the trousers curve upon dot, 8 X, and draw a curved line, 7 F,
from dot, 3 M, to 8 X.
The pattern for the back piece of the trousers is shown in Figure, 23, and this
pattern in practical tailoring is drafted on the top of the pattern of the front piece,
or in other words additional points are found from the outline of the pattern of the
front piece which when joined by lines drawn by means of the charts give the
contour of the pattern, of the back piece. For the sake of convenience and
clearness however in dealing with the example of back-piece pattern the drafting of
which is hereinafter described a separate figure representing the pattern and such
construction lines as are necessary is delineated. Thus assuming that a figure repre-
senting the construction and other lines making up the pattern of the front piece has
been delineated make a dot, 8 F, 1 inches O.S. from dot, 8X, and in the same
straight line. Make another dot, 9 M, of an inch directly to the right of dot, 2 K,
and another dot, 2 N, of an inch to the right of dot, 3 K. Upon the line, 1 N,
make a dot, 3 N, distant 4 inches G.S. 12 from the line, 5 K. Upon the line, 8 L,
make a dot, 5 N, 9 inches G.S. 12 distant from the point, 5 L. Place the measurer
with one long edge upon dots, 5 F, and 5 N, and draw a line, Q, from dot, 5 N, to
a point, 6 N, 1 inches O.S. above the line, 8 K. Next place the chart shown
in Figures, 16, and 17, with the trousers-back-curve size 2, upon dot, 4 N, and with
the curve upon dot 5 N, and draw a curved line, 7 N, from dot, 4 N, to dot, 5 N.
Next place the chart with arrow, 1 Z, on dot, 4 N, and with the curve marked
inside trouser curve upon dot, 3 N, and draw a line, 8 N, from dot, 3 N, to dot, 4 N.
Next place sleeve arrow, 2 P, upon dot, 8 F, with the long curve upon dot, 9 M,
and draw a line, 9 N, from dot, 8 F, to dot, 9 M. Join dots, 9 M, and 2 N, by a
straight line, 1 P. Next place the chart with arrow, 2 P, upon dot, 8 F, and
with the front-jacket curve upon dot, 6 N, and draw a curved line, 2P, from
dot, 6 N, to dot, 8 F.
The charts or templets herein before described are adapted, with regard to their
shape and the positions of the various, slots, arrows, and scales, to meet moderate
changes taking place in the fashions of garments.
On the charts or templets some arrows, curves, perforations and scales are shown
besides those herein before referred to, and can be employed in the drafting of
patterns of garments which may vary more or less from the examples described.
The charts or templets for drafting the patterns of boys' garments are applicable

page_text: also for drafting patterns of men's garments if used in combination with suitable
measuring scales.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. The improved apparatus for drafting garments, shaped at its outer edges,
formed with slots and perforations, and marked with scales and arrows substantially
as shown in Figures, 1, and 2, of the accompanying drawings, and herein before
described.
2. The improved apparatus for drafting garments, shaped at its outer edges,
formed with slots, and marked with scales and arrows, substantially as shown
in Figures, 3, and 4, of the accompanying drawings, and hereinbefore described.
3. The improved apparatus for drafting garments, shaped at its outer edges,
formed with slots, and marked with scales and arrows, substantially as shown
in Figures, 14, and 15, of the accompanying drawings, and herein before described.
4. The improved apparatus for drafting garments, shaped at its outer edges,
formed with sluts, and marked with scales and arrows, substantially as shown
in Figures 16, and 17, of the accompanying drawings, and herein before described.
Dated this Twenty-fifth day of September 1896.
EDMUND HUNT,
Applicant's Agent.