IMPROVED APPARATUS FOR MEASURING THE HUMAN FIGURE AND FOR SETTING OUT THE PATTERNS OF GARMENTS, PARTLY APPLICABLE TO OTHER PURPOSES
Year: 1875

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Alexander Melville Clark, of 53, Chancery Lane,
in the County of Middlesex, Patent Agent, for the Invention
of "IMPROVED APPARATUS FOR MEASURING THE HUMAN FIGURE AND FOR
SETTING OUT THE PATTERNS OF GARMENTS, PARTLY APPLICABLE TO OTHER
PURPOSES." -A communication from abroad by Pierre Roudel, of
Paris, France.
Scaled the 4th February 1876, and dated the 27th August 1875.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Alexander Melville
Clark at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his
Petition, on the 27th August 1875.
I, ALEXANDER MELVILLE CLARK, of 53, Chancery Lane, in the
County of Middlesex, Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature of
the said Invention for "IMPROVED APPARATUS FOR MEASURING THE HUMAN
FIGURE AND FOR SETTING OUT THE PATTERNS OF GARMENTS, PARTLY APPLICABLE TO
OTHER PURPOSES," to be as follows:-
This Invention relates to a mechanical or geometrical apparatus for
use in setting out patterns of garments, and also to an apparatus termed

page_text: a
"conformator" for obtaining tailor's measurements of the human
figure, the latter apparatus being also applicable for other purposes.
By means of the apparatus of this Invention the utmost precision is
ensured, and a tailor is enabled to produce with absolute certitude
perfectly fitting garments which do not require to be tried on and
altered before being finally made up, as in the case of garments cut
upon measurements taken in the ordinary manner; moreover the
garments may be made according to all the different methods of cutting
out and in all the various styles and fashions, whether simple or
complex, with the same precision of fit and with equal facility.
Another advantage is the facility afforded by the "conformator" or
apparatus above mentioned for self-measurement at a distance from the
tailor, so that, by transmitting the measurements so taken of the different
parts of the figure, perfectly fitting garments can be produced without
"trying on or alteration.
وو
As before mentioned the Invention comprises two apparatus, viz.,
1st, a mechanical or geometrical apparatus constructed of metal for use
in setting out the patterns; and, secondly, the apparatus termed a
"conformator" made of india-rubber and used for taking the measure-
ment of the human figure.
In order that the Invention may be more readily understood, I have
illustrated it in the accompanying Drawings, in which Figures 1, 2, 3, 4,
and 5 show the geometrical apparatus for setting out the patterns, the
different Figures showing the apparatus for use in setting out the
different kinds of garments and parts of garments.
Figure 1 represents the apparatus for use in setting out the sleeve of
a coat for male wear.
Figure 2 shows the apparatus for setting out the body portion; and
Figure 3 shows the apparatus for the skirt.
Figure 4 shows the same apparatus as Figure 2 as applied in setting
out the body of a garment for female wear.
Figure 5 shows the apparatus for use in setting out the trousers.
The apparatus is a sort of open framework, as shown, composed
principally of a number of slides or sockets and metal bands or strips
connected together and secures by binding screws, the bands or strips

page_text: being made extensible by sliding in the sockets so that the whole appa-
ratus is capable of extension or adjustment to the form and dimensions
required, the bands and sockets being graduated in inches, centimetres,
or according to any convenient scale.
In the following description the graduations referred to are in centi-
metres, but it will be understood that they may be replaced by a scale
of inches.
:
I will describe for example the apparatus shown in Figure 2. This.
apparatus comprises eight equal divisions of 5 centimetres cach, and is
therefore 40 centimetres in length, the average size for a youth. The
apparatus consists of three principal slides A, B, C, united together by.
iron bands B₁, B', say 70 centimetres in length (the maximum size
required for a man), the one A dividing the apparatus into two equal
parts, and the two B, O, extending from the arm hole in the direction
of the slides M, M. Besides these there are a number of smaller inter-
mediate slides and bands.
The following is the method of using the apparatus:-Suppose the
size or pattern No. 40 represented by the apparatus in its least extended
form to be known, and suppose it is required to produce a larger pattern,"
No. 44, for example, I calculate the amount of extension required in
the following manner:-5 × 8 (the number of divisions) = 40. To
attain 44 it is necessary to add four centimetres to the total extent of
the divisions. Four centimetres divided into. 8 divisions gives ½ centi-'
metre for cach division, making cach èqual to 5 centimetres, which is
done by drawing out the principal slide A and also all the other similar
slides to that extent. The smaller or intermediate slides H, T, J, O,
P, R, &c., &c., are also drawn out in the same way until the number 44
marked thereon (the number of the size required) appears; and similarly
for other sizes. For different figures and for unsymmetrical or deformed
figures the extent to which the intermediate slides are to be extended is
ascertained by means of the "conformator.”
The apparatus for the skirt and the sleeve of a coat, and that for the
trousers is used in the same way. The diagonal dotted line, Figure 3,
indicates the pattern for a dress coat.
Figures 6, 7, 8, and 9 illustrate the conformator; it is made of india-
rubber, and is provided with triangular raised ribs of the same material,

page_text: metrically or otherwise divided; Figure 6 shows the conformator with
its principal ribs colored red; Figure 7 shows the trouser part of
Figure 6; Figure 8 shows the vest or body portion provided with tape
measures upon the ribs which intersect the different parts of the bust;
Figure 9 shows the conformator (without the tape measures) with
these various parts differently colored and marked with their various
appelations.
The conformator is designed to take the measure of the human figure
in different directions in order that these measures may be afterwards
transferred to the geometrical apparatus first described, and like the
latter it is divided into eight equal parts (see Figure 9), the position of
the slides in the first apparatus being represented in the conformator by
the triangular ribs before mentioned, some of which are colored red.
One of these is continuous and encircles the chest and back at the same
height. There is another at the waist, and two others run from the
shoulder downwards, the one over the chest and the other down the
back to the waist, as shown, and are continued below. Between these
the different parts of the body may be delineated in colors to simplify
the use of the conformator and avoid errors in inexperienced hands.
The conformator thus arranged serves to measure and reproduce the
conformation of the human figure and even the natural defects of the
figure with the utmost fidelity, and enable perfectly fitting and elegant
garments to be made for the most difficult figure to dress with as much
ease as for the most symmetrical figure, and by inexperienced as well as
by experienced persons. The conformator is to be applied so as to
envelop the person, and being made of india-rubber it conforms exactly
to the contour of the figure, of which the precise measurement can then
be taken by the tape measures along the raised ribs to which they are
applied. The measurements having been once taken and noted are
subsequently transferred to the geometrical setting out apparatus, the
dimensions of which are made to correspond with those indicated by the
tape measures on the conformator.
The conformator may be applied for other besides tailors' purposes;
it may for instance be used by sculptors and others for reproducing
statuary and for other analogous purposes.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letter Patent,
1
filed by the said Alexander Melville Clark in the Great Seal
Patent Office on the 25th February 1876.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, ALEXANDER
MELVILLE CLARK, of 53, Chancery Lane, in the County of Middlesex,
Patent Agent, send greeting.
1
'!:
}
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her.
Letters Patent, bearing date the Twenty-seventh day of August, in
the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-five, in
the thirty-ninth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and
successors, give and grant unto me, the said Alexander Melville Clark,
Her special license that I, the said Alexander Melville Clark, my,
executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said
Alexander Melville Clark, my executors, administrators, and assigns,
should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and
at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and
lawfully might make, usc, exercise, and vend, within the United
Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and,
Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVED APPARATUS FOR MEASURING THE
HUMAN FIGURE AND FOR SETTING OUT THE PATTERNS OF GARMENTS, PARTLY
APPLICABLE TO OTHER PURPOSES," a communication to me from abroad by
Pierre Roudel, of Paris, France, upon the condition (amongst others)
that I, the said Alexander Melville Clark, my executors or admini-
strators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or onc
of their hands and scals, should particularly describe and ascertain
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was
to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal
Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately after
the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Alexander Melville Clark, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is
to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement, reference being had to the two accompanying
Sheets of Drawings, and to the letters and figures marked thereon, that
is to say -
This Invention relates to mechanical or geometrical apparatus for uso

page_text: '
in setting out patterns of garments, also to an apparatus termed a
"conformator," for obtaining tailors' measurements of the human figure,
the latter apparatus being also applicable for other purposes.
By means of the apparatus of this Invention the utmost precision is
ensured, and a tailor is enabled to produce with absolute certitude
perfectly fitting garments which do not require to be tried on and
altered before being finally made up, as in the case of garments cut
upon measurements taken in the ordinary manner; moreover, the
garments may be made according to the different methods of cutting
out, and in all the various styles and fashions, whether simple or
complex, with the same precision of fit and with equal facility.
Another advantage is the facility afforded by the "conformator" or
apparatus above mentioned for self-measurement at a distance from the
tailor, so that by transmitting the measurements, so taken of the different
parts of the figure, perfectly fitting garments can be produced without
"trying on or alteration.
"
As before mentioned the Invention comprises two kinds of apparatus,
viz., the mechanical or geometrical apparatus constructed of metal for
use in setting out the patterns; and secondly, the apparatus termed a
"conformator" made of india-rubber, and used for taking the measure-
ment of the human figure.
In order that the Invention may be more readily understood I have
illustrated it in the accompanying Drawings, in which Figures 1, 2, 3,
4, and 5 show the geometrical apparatus used for setting out the patterns
of different kinds of garments and parts of garments.
Figure 1 represents the apparatus for use in setting out the sleeve of
a coat for male wear.
Figure 2 shows the apparatus for setting out the body portion; and
Figure 3 shows the apparatus for the skirt.
Figure 4 shows the same apparatus as Figure 2 as applied in setting
out the body of a garment for female wear.
Figure 5 shows the apparatus for use in setting out the trousers.
The apparatus is a sort of adjustable frame, as shown, composed
principally of a number of parallel arms fitted by sockets to slide

page_text: adjustably on a permanent frame or support, to which they are secured
by binding screws, the said arms also carrying other sockets with arms
at right angles to the first, the whole of the arms being made extensible
by graduated scales or rods sliding in grooves in the arms, so that the
entire apparatus is capable of extension or adjustment to the form and
dimensions required, the graduations being in inches, centimetres, or
according to any other convenient scale.
In the following description the graduations referred to arc in centi-
metres.
1
I will describe, for example, the apparatus shown in Figuro 2. This
apparatus comprises eight equal. divisions of 5 centimetres each, and is
therefore 40 centimetres in length, the average size for a youth. The
apparatus consists of three main sockets A; B; C, united together by
iron bands X, say 70 centimetres in length (the maximum size required
for a man), the one A dividing the apparatus into two equal parts, and
the two B, C, extending from the arm hole in the direction of the
slides M, M. These bands X form a permanent frame, and serve to
carry a number of other sliding sockets fitted adjustably thereon, and
carrying arms having extensible sliding scales, as above mentioned.
The following is the method of using the apparatus:-Suppose the
size or pattern No. 40, represented by the apparatus in its least extended
form to be known, and suppose it is required to produce a larger pattern,
No. 44, for example, I calculate the amount of extension required in the
following manner :- -5. x 8. (the number of divisions) = 40. To attain
44 it is necessary to add 4 centimetres to the total extent of the divisions.
Four centimetres, divided into cight, divisions gives centimetre for
cach division, making each equal to 5%, centimetres, which is done by
adjusting the principal socket A. and also all the similar sockets to
that extent. The smaller or intermediate slides H, I, J, O, P, R, &c.,
&c., are also drawn out in the same way until the number 44 marked
thereon (the number of the size required) appears, and similarly for
other sizes. In different figures and for unsymmetrical and deformed
figures the extent to which, the intermediate slides are extended is
ascertained by means of the "conformator."
The apparatus for the skirt and the sleeves of a coat and that for tho
trousers is used in the same way. The diagonal dotted line, Figure 3,1
indicates the pattern for dress coat. "
'
.

page_text: "
Figures 6, 7, 8, and 9 illustrate the "conformator." It is made of
india-rubber, and is provided with triangular raised ribs of the same
material metrically or otherwise divided. Figure 6 shows the con-
formator with its principal ribs colored red; Figure 7 shows the
trouser part of Figure 6; Figure 8 shows the vest or body portion pro-
vided with tape measures upon the ribs, which intersect the different
parts of the bust; Figure 9 shows the "conformator" (without the tape
measures) with these various parts differently colored.
The "conformator" is designed to take the measure of the human figure
in different directions in order that these measures may afterwards be
transferred to the geometrical apparatus first described, and like the
latter it is divided into eight equal parts (see Figure 9), the position of
the slides in the first apparatus being represented in the "conformator" by
the triangular ribs before mentioned, of which the principal ones are
colored red. One of these is continuous, and encircles the chest and
back at the same height. There is another at the waist, and two others
run from the shoulder downwards, the one over the chest and the other
down the back to the waist, as shown, and are continued below.
Between these the different parts of the body may be delincated in
different colors to simplify the use of the " conformator" and avoid errors
in inexperienced hands. To each of the raised ribs a tape measure is
adapted, as shown, the several tapes being colored to correspond with the
color of that part of the "conformator" in connection with which they
are to be used. The "conformator thus constituted serves to measure
and reproduce the conformation of the human figure, and even its natural
defects, with the utmost fidelity, and enable perfectly fitting and elegant
garments to be made for the most difficult figure to dress with as much
case as for the most symmetrical figure, and by inexperienced as well as
by experienced persons. The "conformator" is to be applied so as to
envelop the person, and being made of india-rubber, it conforms exactly
to the contour of the figure, of which the precise measurement can then
be taken by the tape measures along the raised ribs to which they are
applied. The measurements having been once taken and noted are sub-
sequently transferred to the geometrical setting-out apparatus, the
dimensions of which are made to correspond with those indicated by the
tape measures on the "conformator."
93

page_text: It may, for instance, be used by sculptors and others for reproducing
statuary, and for other analogous purposes."
Having described the nature of the Invention and the manner of per-
forming the same, I-declare that what I claim as the Invention to be
protected by the herein-before in part recited Letters Patent is, the
employment in combination of a geometrical apparatus for setting out
the patterns of garments and a measuring apparatus or conformator, all
as hercin shown and described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Alexander Melville, Clark, have
hereunto set my hand and seal, this Twenty-fifth day of February,
in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-
six.