IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES, AND FOR OTHER PURPOSES
Year: 1869

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Joseph Blomfield, Managing Partner of the
Britannia Sewing Machine Company, of Colchester, in the County
of Essex, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES FOR
THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES, AND FOR OTHER PURPOSES."
Sealed the 26th November 1869, and dated the 4th Junc 1869.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Joseph Blomfield at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
4th June 1869.
I, JOSEPH BLOMFIELD, Managing Partner of the Britannia Sewing
Machine Company, of Colchester, in the County of Essex, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING
MACHINES FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES. AND FOR OTHER PURPOSES,"
to be as follows:
The first part of my Invention relates to improvements in machinery
for sewing the welts of boots and shoes, the object being to perform the
welting operation as similar to hand work as possible.

page_text: one
In carrying out my Invention I mount a cranked shaft horizontally in
a suitable framing, and communicate rotary motion thereto by means of
a treadle, or in any other convenient manner. This shaft which acts as
the driving shaft of the machine transmits motion to a rocking shaft also
mounted horizontally, which is caused to partially rotate alternately in
either direction by means of a rod, the ends of which are connected to
crank pins of unequal radii, each of which is fixed to a disc carried ou
either shaft. To one end of this rocking shaft are attached the needle.
and awl which are formed in
(being shaped almost in a circle), and
secured near the middle, the one
end which forms the awl receding as
the other or needle end advances, and vice versa. The driving shaft also
gives motion to a vertical shaft by means of bevil or other suitable
gearing, the lower end of which shaft rotates at right angles and in close
proximity to the needle. The end of this shaft is furnished with a hook
and spool for carrying the thread similar to that of an ordinary Wheeler
and Wilson sewing machine, the spool being held in place by means of an
adjustable bracket. Beneath the needle carrier is placed a movable rest
for supporting the work during the operation of sewing. This rest is
formed of a rod, the lower part of which is placed vertically in sockets
directly under the needle, the upper part being bent at a considerable
angle; the upper end which is slightly tapered is inclined in the contrary
direction, and terminates directly under the
rest in this manner it may be rotated in
as to bring the work into any position
needle, and the rest being thus bent or
toe of the boot when sewing that part. A presser foot is provided for
shifting the work at each stitch. It consists of a vertical rod sliding in
fixed bearings, and capable of lateral motion therein, the extent of
which is determined by the length of stitch desired. This rod is moved
towards one side at each stitch by a lever arm operated by a cam keyed
on the vertical shaft, and from this rod a fixed arm projects, the end of
which rests on a circular inclined plane or cam surface surrounding the
vertical, hook and spool shaft before mentioned, which cam at each
revolution of said shaft raises the presser rod off
same time bringing it back in readiness to carry
for another stitch as before.
needle. By forming the
its bearings above mentioned so
relative to the motion of the
inclined is enabled to reach the
the work, a spring at
forward the work again
The action of the machine is as follows:-The work being suitably

page_text: is effected by the awl first entering the welt through which it passes, and
then emerges by reason of its circular form through the insole and
upper. The awl is then withdrawn, and the needle, which is supplied
with thread from a bobbin suitably disposed, is advanced in the contrary
direction through the hole pierced for it by the awl (they being placed
point to point), that is to say, it first enters the insole on the surface of
the insole, passing through the same and through the upper and welt, at
the surface of which it reappears where the loop formed by the needle is
caught by the rotating hook, and lock stitch formed thereby with the
thread contained in the spool in the manner of an ordinary Wheeler and
Wilson sewing machine.
The second part of my
a
Invention relates to improvements in machines
for sewing on the outsoles of boots and shoes, one of which improve-
ments consists in shaping the presser foot so as to keep the upper clear
of the needle whilst stitching the sole. This I effect by forming a foot
with an aperture for the passage of the needle through the same, and I
at same time slightly enlarge the foot at that part to form a guide piece
against which to press the upper, and thus keep it out of the line of
motion of the needle.
Another improvement consists in operating the needle carrier direct
from the cam (without the aid of an intermediate lever as heretofore).
This I effect by mounting the cam shaft directly above the needle carrier
and causing a projection on the latter to take into the cam groove, the
shuttle being operated in its race by means of a connecting rod and bell-
crank lever working in the same cam groove.
or other spring in
ratchet for driving
Another improvement consists in providing a spiral
the eccentric rod employed to operate the pawl and
the feed wheel. The object of this spring is to prevent breakage of
the needle by allowing the eccentric to revolve without operating the
feed motion, should any sudden inequality in the surface of the work
present itself. By this means the needle is caused to penetrate the same
hole until the obstruction is removed by the operator.
The third part of my Invention relates to an improved mode of
driving an ordinary Wheeler and Wilson sewing machine by hand.
This I effect without the aid of complicated gearing by means of a
suitable hand driving wheel mounted at the side of the machine facing
the operator, who is placed at one side of the machine instead at the end
as usual in operating these machines, An endless band is passed over

page_text: this wheel and over a pulley on the cam and hook spindle. In working
the machine this spindle is rotated in the usual direction, but on the
opposite side of the machine, the work feeder being moved in the
contrary direction.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Joseph Blomfield in the Great Seal Patent Office
on the 4th December 1869.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME. I, JOSEPH
BLOMFIELD, Managing Partner of the Britannia Sewing Machine Com-
pany, of Colchester, in the County of Essex, send greeting.
the year
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Fourth day of June. in
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-nine, in the thirty-
second year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors,
give and grant unto me, the said Joseph Blomfield, Her special licence
that I, the said Joseph Blomfield, my executors, administrators, and
assigns, or such others as I, the said Joseph Blomfield, my executors,
administrators, and assigns, should at any
time agree
with, and no
others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the term
therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the
Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
SEWING MACHINES FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES, AND FOR
OTHER PURPOSES," upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said
Joseph Blomfield, my executors or administrators, by an instrument
in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should
particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Inven-
tion, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause
the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar
months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters
Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Joseph Blomfield, do hereby
declare the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same
is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement, reference being had to the two Sheets of

page_text: The first part of my Invention relates to improvements in machinery
for sewing the welts of boots and shoes, the object being to perform the
welting operation as similar to hand work as possible.
of an ordinary Wheeler
held in place by means of
carrier is placed a movable
operation of sewing. This
which is placed vertically in
In carrying out. my Invention I mount a cranked shaft horizontally
in a suitable framing, and communicate rotary motion thereto by means
of a treadle, or in any other convenient manner. The shaft which acts
as the driving shaft of the machine transmits motion to a rocking
shaft also mounted horizontally, which is caused to partially rotate
alternately in either direction by means of a rod, the ends of which are
connected to crank pins of unequal radius, each of them being fixed to a
disc carried on either shaft. To one end of the rocking shaft are attached
the needle and awl which are formed in one (being shaped almost in a
circle) and secured near the middle, the one end which forms the awl
receding as the other or needle end advances and vice versa. The driving
shaft also gives motion to a vertical shaft by means of bevil or other
suitable gearing, the lower end of which shaft is furnished with a hook
and spool for carrying the thread similar to that
and Wilson sewing machine, the spool being
an adjustable bracket. Beneath the needle
rest for supporting the work during the
rest is formed of a rod the lower part of
sockets directly under the needle, the upper part being bent at a con-
siderable angle while the upper end which is slightly tapered is inclined
in the contrary direction and terminates directly under the needle. By
forming the rest in this manner it may be rotated in its bearings above-
mentioned, so as to bring the work into any position relative to the
motion of the needle, and the rest being thus bent or inclined is enabled
to reach the toe of the boot when sewing that part. A presser foot is
provided for shifting the work at each stitch. It consists of a vertical
rod sliding in fixed bearings and capable of lateral motion therein, the
extent of which is determined by the length of stitch desired.
rod is moved towards one side at each stitch by a lever arm operated
by a cam keyed on the vertical shaft, and from this rod a fixed arm
projects, the end of which rests on a circular inclined plane or cam
surface surrounding the vertical hook and spool shaft before-mentioned,
which cam at each revolution of said shaft raises the presser rod off
This

page_text: the work, a spring at same time bringing it back in readiness to carry
forward the work again for another stitch as before.
The second part of my Invention relates to improvements in machines
for sewing on the out soles of boots and shoes, one of which improve-
ments consists in shaping the presser foot so as to keep the upper
clear of the needle whilst stitching the sole. This effect by forming
the foot with an aperture for the passage of the needle through the same,
and I at same time slightly enlarge the foot at that part to form a
guide piece against which to press the upper and thus keep it out of
the line of motion of the needle.
Another improvement consists in operating the needle carrier direct
from the cam (without the aid of an intermediate lever, as heretofore).
This effect by mounting the cam shaft directly above the needle carrier
and causing a projection on the latter to take into the cam groove, the
shuttle being operated in its race by means of a connecting rod and
bell crank lever working in a similar cam groove.
Another improvement consists in providing a spiral or other spring
in the eccentric rod employed to operate the pawl and ratchet for driving
the feed wheel. The object of this spring is to prevent breakage of
the needle by allowing the eccentric to revolve without operating the
feed motion should any sudden inequality in the surface of the work
present itself. By this means the needle is caused to penetrate the
same hole until the obstruction is removed by the operator.
The third part of my Invention relates to an improved mode of
driving an ordinary Wheeler and Wilson sewing machine by hand.
This effect without the aid of complicated gearing by means of a
suitable hand driving wheel mounted at the side of the machine facing
the operator, who is placed at one side of the machine instead of at the
end as usual in operating these machines. An endless band is passed
over this wheel and over a pulley on the cam and hook spindle. In
working the machine this spindle is rotated in the opposite direction to
the usual mode and on the opposite side of the machine, the work
feeder being also moved in the contrary direction.

page_text: A is the driving shaft mounted in bearings on the framework B of the
machine; this shaft is cranked, and is connected to a suitable treadle C,
as shown. D is a rocking shaft similarly mounted, to which partial
rotary motion is transmitted from the driving shaft A, by means of rod E.
This rod E is connected at one end, which is slotted, to a pin carried on
a disc F keyed at one end of the driving shaft A, and similarly con-
nected at the other end to a wrist plate G carried on the rocking shaft D,
the discs, and consequently the pins. being of unequal radius, so that
the driving shaft A, which is driven by means of the treadle C, will
transmit partial rotary motion only to shaft D. The other end of
shaft D is slightly cranked, and carries the needle a and awl b, which
are preferably formed in one, and curved to form an almost complete
circle described from the centre of rotation of shaft D. The needle a
and awl bare firmly secured in the crank or needle carrier by means of
set screws, as shown. H is a vertical shaft mounted to rotate in suitable
bearings carried on the framework B. and operated from the driving
shaft A by means of bevil gearing. The lower end of this shaft is
enlarged to contain a spool, and furnished with a hook c similar in
operation to that of an ordinary Wheeler and Wheeler sewing machine,
the spool being supported in place by an adjustable bracket I secured
to framing B. K is a movable rest placed beneath the needle carrier,
on which the work to be sewn is supported. It consists of a rod bent,
as shown in Figure 2, the lower or straight part being supported ver-
tically in bearings directly in line with needle a, the upper or bent part
being slightly tapered and terminating in line with the lower part
immediately beneath said needle a. This rest K is free to be rotated as
required by the operator, so that the needle may enter the work in any
direction desired, and being bent, as shown, is enabled to reach to and
support the toe of the boot when required. d is a presser foot for feeding
the work at each stitch. It slides vertically in guides, in which it may
also be moved laterally to the extent of the stitch required by means of
a cam e keyed on the hook shaft H. A fixed arm d projecting from the
feed rod d rests on the upper surface of this cam, by which the foot d
is raised off the work at each revolution of shaft H, and is brought back
by a spring (not shown) in readiness to carry forward the work again for
another stitch, as before. The rod d is also moved towards one side at
each stitch by the end of a lever pivoted, as shown, the other end
of which lever is in contact with the periphery of cam e. The action of
the machine is follows:-The work being suitably placed on the rest the

page_text: rocking shaft D is partially rotated to pierce the work. which is effected
by the awl b first entering the welt through which it passes, and then
emerges, by reason of its circular form. through the insole and upper:
*The motion of shaft D is then reversed, and the awl b withdrawn; the
needle, which is supplied with thread from a bobbin suitably disposed,
being at same time advanced in the contrary direction through the hole
pierced for it by the awl (the needle and awl being placed point to
point). The needle therefore first enters and passes through the insole,
and then through the upper and welt, at the surface of which it
re-appears, where the thread supplied to the needle (indicated in blue
lines in Figure 2) is caught by the rotating hook c, as shown, and a
lock stitch formed thereby with the thread contained in the spool, in the
manner of an ordinary Wheeler and Wilson sewing machine.
The second part of my Invention is illustrated in Figures 3 and 4,
which show in front and side elevation a machine for sewing on the
outsoles of boots and shoes with my improvements applied. The first
improvement consists in forming the presser foot L with an aperture
at the lower part for the passage of the needle through the same, the
foot at that part being also slightly enlarged, as shown, to form a guide
piece against which to press the upper, the object being to keep the
latter clear of the line of motion of the needle, and so avoid piercing it
when stitching the sole.
Another improvement consists in mounting the driving shaft. and
cam M immediately above the needle carrier N, the latter being operated
directly by the cam (without the aid of any intermediate lever) by the
pin N¹ on the needle carrier N taking into the cam groove, as shown.
race in the usual manner by means of
a bell crank lever P working in al similar cam groove, and com-
municating at the lower end with the shuttle by a connecting rod,
as usual.
The shuttle O is operated in its
Another improvement consists in preventing the breakage of the
needle by providing a spiral or other spring in the eccentric rod Q
employed to operate the pawl
Figure 5) for driving the feed
eccentric rod Q in two parts, the
that of the other, in which it is
spring therein, so that should
itself the spring will be overcome, and the eccentric R will revolve
and ratchet wheel (shown detached in
wheel 1. This I effect by making the
end of the one part being received in
capable of moving to compress the
any inequality in the work present

page_text: without operating the feed wheel 1, thereby causing
penetrate the same hole until the obstruction is removed.
details of the machine are much the same as usual.
the needle to
The remaining
Figure 6 is a front elevation of a machine illustrating the third part
of my Invention, which relates to an improved arrangement for driving
an ordinary Wheeler and Wilson sewing machine by hand. T is a hand-
driving wheel mounted at the side of the machine facing the operator.
The cam and hook spindle S is driven from this wheel by means of an
endless band m passing over the same, and over a pulley n
on said
spindle, as shown. This spindle is rotated in the opposite direction to
that in which it turns in the ordinary Wheeler and Wilson machine, the
hook p (seen in Figure 7, which is a part plan of the work plate,) being also
turned in the contrary direction. The hook is moreover mounted at the
opposite end of the spindle S to that at which it is usually placed. The
position of the cam for operating the work feeder is also reversed, the
work being consequently fed in the opposite direction, and as the
relative positions of the machine and operator are also different the work
is moved away from the operator instead of from left to right as usual.
I prefer to make the spool employed in these machines of vulcanite,
india-rubber, or other suitable material to prevent the noise consequent
on the use of a metal spool. I also prefer to employ the adjustable cam,
shewn in front and side views in Figure 8. for operating the feed motion
with the same object of preventing noise. To effect this the cam
surface is formed of a steel ring or plate q secured as shown, the incli-
nation of which is varied according to the length of stitch required by
means of the set screw r, instead of limiting the motion of the work
feeder by a fixed stop.
Having described the nature of my Invention, and the manner of
performing the same, I declare that what I claim as my Invention to be
protected by the herein-before in part recited Letters Patent is,-
1st. The combination and arrangement of parts constituting the
improved machine for sewing the welts of boots and shoes, operating
substantially as described and shown in Figures 1 and 2 of the
Drawings.
2ndly. I claim the several improvements in machinery for sewing on
the outsoles of boots and shoes, herein-before described and represented
in Figures 3, 4, and 5 of the Drawings.

page_text: 3rdly. I claim the improved mode of driving a Wheeler and Wilson
sewing machine by hand, illustrated in Figures 6 and 7 of the Drawings,
and operating substantially in the manner described.
In witness whereof, I.
whereof, I, the said Joseph Blomfield have hereunto
set my hand and seal, this Fifteenth day of November, in the
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-nine.
JOSEPH BLOMFIELD. (L.S.)