Improvements in the Manufacture of Figured Woven Fabrics.
Year: 1892

page_text: Date of Application, 24th Sept., 1892
Complete Specification Left, 22nd Dec., 1892-Accepted, 11th Feb., 1893
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Figured Woven Fabrics.
We, THOMAS TAYLOR, of the firm of Barlow and Jones Limited, of Bolton, in
the County of Lancaster, Manufacturers and JACOB WARBURTON, of 7 Hampden
Street, Bolton aforesaid, Designer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention
to be as follows:-
Our invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of coloured woven
figured fabrics suitable for curtains, quilts, table-cloths, toilet covers, mats etc.
The object of our invention is to produce a woven fabric having figures of two
or more materials or colours upon a ground which is composed of relatively coarse
warp threads (which may be either all of one colour or of two or more different
colours) interwoven with a finer weft, and backed with other weaving which also
forms the figures on the face and is composed of comparatively fine warp threads
interwoven with other weft threads.
In weaving our improved cloth we employ a loom of the ordinary construction
and we use two warps and three or more shuttles, one shuttle containing weft for
the ground and the other shuttles wefts for the figures, these wefts being of any
suitable colours. One warp, the face warp, is by preference all of one colour and
is of a finer material than the other or ground warp which may either be a self
colour or two or more different colours, and the face warp in combination with the
figure wefts composes the figured portion of the fabric; this face warp is also used
to bind the figured portion to the ground portion and may be worked either plain,
twill, sateen, or other weave of cloth, and is by preference woven in healds.
The ground warp is drawn into the mounting or harness which is by preference
drawn into two pressing cumber boards, by which the ground is bound; but the
ground could be bound either by more than two cumber boards, or by the Jacquard
machine itself. The mounting or harness is connected with the Jacquard machine
and creates the pattern of the cloth by raising the warp in the ground portion and
leaving it down in the figure portion when the figure picks are being interwoven.
When carrying out our improvements for weaving figures of two colours and with
face warp in two healds and the ground warp bound by two pressing cumber boards
the order of shedding is as follows:-
The 1st pick is a figure pick. The Jacquard machine is raised and the 1st
heald up.
The 2nd pick is a figure pick.
heald up.
The Jacquard machine is raised and the 1st
The 3rd pick is a ground pick. The Jacquard machine is down and the 1st
cumber board is raised to form the ground while the 1st heald remains up.
The 4th pick is a figure pick. The Jacquard machine is raised and the 2nd
heald up.
The 5th pick is a figure pick. The Jacquard machine is raised and the 2nd
heald up.
The 6th pick is a ground pick. The Jacquard machine is down and the 2nd
cumber board raised to form the ground while the 2nd heald remains up.
As an alternative when weaving figures with two colours or materials as above
described each ground pick may be put in between the two figure picks of the same
heald or face shed.
By following out these movements it will be seen that there are three picks in
each heald shed.

page_text: The number of healds may be varied to suit any binding that may be required.
Dated this 23rd day of September 1892.
H. B. BARLOW & GILLETT,
Agents for Applicants.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Figured Woven Fabrics.
We, THOMAS TAYLOR, of the firm of Barlow and Jones Limited, of Bolton, in
the County of Lancaster, Manufacturers and JACOB WARBURTON, of 7 Hampden
Street, Bolton aforesaid, Designer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described
and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
Our invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of coloured woven
figured fabrics suitable for curtains, quilts, table-cloths, toilet covers, mats etc.
The object of our invention is to produce a woven fabric having figures of two or
more materials or colours upon a ground which is composed of relatively coarse
warp threads (which may be either all of one colour or of two or more different
colours) interwoven with a finer weft, and backed with other weaving which also
forms the figures on the face and is composed of comparatively fine warp threads.
interwoven with other weft threads.
In weaving our improved cloth we employ a loom of the ordinary construction
and we use two warps and three or more shuttles, one shuttle containing weft for
the ground and the other shuttles wefts for the figures, these wefts being of any
suitable colours. One warp, the face warp, is by preference all of one colour and
is of a finer material than the other or ground warp which may either be a self
colour or two or more different colours, and the face warp in combination with the
figure wefts composes the figured portion of the fabric; this face warp is also used
to bind the figured portion to the ground portion and may be worked either plain,
twill, sateen, or other weave of cloth, and is by preference woven in healds.
The ground warp is drawn into the mounting or harness which is by preference
drawn into two pressing cumber boards, by which the ground is bound; but the
ground could be bound either by more than two cumber boards, or by the Jacquard
machine itself. The mounting or harness is connected with the Jacquard machine
and creates the pattern of the cloth by raising the warp in the ground portion and
leaving it down in the figure portion when the figure picks are being interwoven.
When carrying out our improvements for weaving figures of two colours and with
face warp in two healds and the ground warp bound by two pressing cumber boards
the order of shedding is as follows:-
The 1st pick is a figure pick.
heald up.
The 2nd pick is a figure pick.
heald up
The Jacquard machine is raised and the 1st
The Jacquard machine is raised and the 1st
The 3rd pick is a ground pick. The Jacquard machine is down and the 1st
cumber board is raised to form the ground while the 1st heald remains up.
The 4th pick is a figure pick. The Jacquard machine is raised and the 2nd
heald up.
The 5th pick is a figure pick.
heald up.
The Jacquard machine is raised and the 2nd
The 6th pick is a ground pick. The Jacquard machine is down and the 2nd
cumber board raised to form the ground while the 2nd heald remains up.
As an alternative when weaving figures with two colours or materials as above
described each ground pick may be put in between the two figure picks of the same
heald or face shed.
By following out these movements it will be seen that there are three picks in
each heald shed.

page_text: And in order that our invention may be fully understood and readily carried into
effect we will describe the accompanying sheet of diagrams in which-
Figure 1 is a diagram representing the "tie up" and order of shedding as well as
the draft" or order of drawing in the warp ends and Fig. 2 is a similar diagram
illustrating an alternative method of weaving our improved figured fabric.
In the diagrams, a designates the first heald and 6 the second heald through
which the face warps are drawn, the ground warp is drawn into a Jacquard harness
which is drawn into two pressing cumber boards, lettered cd; the numerals 1, 2, 3,
4, 5 and 6 give the order of the successive picks of weft and the crosses on the
diagrams indicate the order in which the warp threads are raised.
The operation is as follows:-
In the first position the Jacquard machine is raised and the first heald a is up.
A pick of coloured figure weft is thrown into this shed; then the Jacquard machine
is again raised while the first heald a remains up or stationary and a second pick of
figure weft, that is the other coloured weft, is thrown into the shed; after these
two picks of figure weft have been put into these sheds, the Jacquard machine is
lowered, the first cumber board c is raised, and the first heald a remains up while
a pick of weft for the ground is thrown into the shed. Then the Jacquard machine
is raised the first heald a falls, and the second heald 6 is raised and into this shed is
thrown a pick of coloured weft; then the Jacquard machine changes while the
second heald remains up and a pick of the second coloured figure weft is
thrown into the shed; then the Jacquard machine is lowered, the second cumber
board d is raised, and the second heald b remains up while a pick of weft for the
ground is thrown into the shed, and these changes are repeated in the same order.
In the diagram of the "draft" the dents of the reed are lettered e and it will be
seen that in each dent are drawn in three ends of warp viz., one end of the face
warp and two ends of the ground warp.
g
י,
In Fig. 2 it will be seen that the "draft or drawing in of the warps is the same
as in Fig. 1 but each ground pick of weft is put into the shed between two picks of
figure weft.
To produce a plain or self coloured ground we employ warp threads all of one
colour, while to produce a variegated or tapestry effect in the ground, we employ a
warp composed of two or more differently coloured yarns.
The number of healds may be varied to suit any binding that may be required.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what we
claim is :-
1. A woven figured fabric having figures of two or more different colours or
materials upon a self coloured, variegated or tapestry ground produced by weaving
in which one ground pick of weft and one figure pick of weft for each colour or
material are put into every shed of the face warp.
2. The improved manufacture of a woven figured fabric with two or more figure
picks of weft (of different colours or materials) and one ground pick of weft in each
shed of the face warp substantially as herein described.
Dated this 21st day of December 1892
H. B. BARLOW & GILLETT,
17, St. Ann's Square, Manchester, Agents for Applicants.