CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF SHIRTS, SHIRT FRONTS, AND OTHER ARTICLES OF WEARING APPAREL
Year: 1857

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to David Hesse and Max Hesse, both of Manchester,
in the County of Lancaster, for the Invention of "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS
IN THE MANUFACTURE OF SHIRTS, SHIRT FRONTS, AND OTHER ARTICLES OF
WEARING APPAREL."
Sealed the 10th November 1857, and dated the 14th May 1857.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said David Hesse and Max
Hesse at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with their Petition,.
on the 14th May 1857.
We, DAVID HESSE and MAX HESSE, both of Manchester, in the County of
Lancaster, do hereby declare the nature of our said Invention for "CERTAIN
IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF SHIRTS, SHIRT FRONTS, AND OTHER
ARTICLES OF WEARING APPARALL," to be as follows:-
Our Invention consists in providing a substitute for plaiting or folding cloth
in the manufacture of shirts, shirt fronts, whether worn fast and forming part
of the shirt, or- loose and detached, chemises, petticoats, or other articles of
wearing apparal wherein plaiting or folding is required.
This substitute for plaiting or folding is effected by three different modes,-
First, by placing two single cloths, linen, cotton, woollen, silk, or otherwise
upon or against each other, and stitching the same together (by means of a
sewing machine, if preferred) in close rows, by which are formed, between the

page_text: rows of stitching, narrow loose stripes or bags, which are afterwards to be filled
up with cords, braids of flat stripes of cloth, which will impart the appearance
of narrow plaiting.
Secondly, two small plaits are to be made facing or opposite to each other
at a distance apart; a loose strip or piece of cloth is then placed behind upon
the back of the first named cloth, so that it is just between the before named
small plaits or folds, and and a row of stitching on each of these before small
plaits will combine the two small plaits, which will have the appearance of one
large plait.
Thirdly, by placing on the back part of a plain cloth a double, or cloth of a
coarser quality of the width that the plait is intended to be, and making a
row of stitching on or near the outer edge on the face side of the article.
The improvement, effected by this substitute for the ordinary method of
plaiting or folding such manufactures, in the saving of about one-third of
the material employed, more durability, and a greater ease in redressing these
articles.
Another improvement, solely confined to loose shirt fronts, is, that hitherto
such fronts has been made with a'hem stitch on the outer edges of the front;
consequently every time the front is redressed it becomes more or less distorted,
and of a different shape, to remedy which fault our improved shirt front has
the cloth doubled at the edges and then stitched down with a sewing machine,
or otherwise.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said David Hesse and Max Hesse in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 12th November. 1857.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, DAVID
HESSE and MAX HESSE, both of Manchester, in the County of Lancaster, send
greeting.
WHEREAS Her most. Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Fourteenth day of May, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-seven, in the twentieth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto us,
the said David Hesse and Max Hesse, Her especial licence that we, the said
David Hesse and Max Hesse, our executors, administrators; and assigns, or
such others as we, the said David Hesse and Max Hesse, our executors,
administrators, and, assigns, should, at any time agree with, and no others,

page_text: from time to time and at all times thereafter during the term therein
expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within
the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and
Isle of Man, an Invention for "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF
SHIRTS, SHIRT FRONTS, AND OTHER ARTICLES OF WEARING APPAREL," upon the
condition, amongst others, that we, the said David Hesse and Max Hesse, by
an instrument in writing under our hands and seals, should particularly
describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what..manner
the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great
Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the
date of the said Letters Patent.
.
NOW KNOW YE, that we, the said David Hesse and Max Hesse, do
hereby declare the nature of our said Invention, and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and, ascertained in
and by the following statement and accompanying Drawings (that is to
say):-
Our Invention consists in providing a substitute for plaiting or folding cloth
in the manufacture of shirts, shirt fronts, whether worn fast and forming part
of the shirt, or loose and detached, chemises, petticoats, or other articles of
wearing apparel wherein plaiting or folding is required. This. substitute for.
plaiting or folding is effected by three different modes,―
sam
a
First, by placing two single cloths, linen, cotton, woollen, silk, or otherwise
upon or against each other, and stitching the
er (by means of a
sewing machine preferred). in close, rows, by which are formed between the
rows of stitching narrow loose: stripes or bags, which are afterwards to be
filled up with cords, braides, or flat stripes of cloth, which will impart..the
appearance of narrow plaiting; or, a similar effect may be produced by weaving
cords or flat stripes in the cloth and afterwards stitching down each sides of
such cords.
Secondly, two small plaits are to be made facing or opposite to each other
at a distance apart; a loose strip or piece of cloth, the width of the intended
plait, is then placed behind upon the back of the first named cloth, so that
it is just between the before named small plaits or folds, and so that the
inner part of the said small plait (on the reverse side of the front) fully covers
the edge of the said stripe, and a row of stitching on each of these before
named small plaits will combine the two small plaits, which will have the
appearance of one large plait.
Thirdly, by placing on the back of a plain cloth or double, or cloth of a.
coarser quality of the width that the plait is intended to be, and making

page_text: a row of stitching on or near the outer edge on the face side of the
article.
The improvements, effected by this substitute for the ordinary method of
plaiting or folding such manufactures, is the sewing of about one-third the
material employed, more durability, and a greater ease in redressing these
articles.
In order that the Invention may be more clearly understood, we have
hereunto annexed a Sheet of Drawing, illustrative of the first and second parts
of our Invention, Fig. 1 being a front view and section, shewing the introduc-
tion of the cords. or stripes between the double or front and back cloth, and
Fig. 2 a front view and section, shewing the single or face cloth folded or
plated, and having the extra strip of fabric introduced between and sewn at
each edge in such folds, the section in both Figures being enlarged in. order
to shew the construction more clearly. In Fig. 1 the black line a represents
the face or front of the shirt front composed of a fine material, and the red
line b the back of such front, which is made of a coarser quality of material,
and between which two cloths the cord or braid c, shewn in blue; are placed
and secured by stitching at each side. In Fig. 2, a is the face of the front,
which is folded into any number of plaits, as here shewn, and having the
stripes of coarser material, shewn in red, placed between and stitched down
with each plait.
Having now described the nature of our said Invention, together with the
method of performing the same, we wish it to be understood that we claim the
novel and peculiar manufacture of shirt fronts and other articles of wearing
apparel, by which means a substitute for plaiting or folding the cloth, as
ordinarily practised, is provided.
In witness whereof, we, the said David, Hesse and Max Hesse, have
hereunto set our hands and seals, this Eleventh day of November,
in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-seven.
DAVID HESSE. (L.S.)
MAX HESSE.
(L.S.)