A METHOD OR METHODS OF WEAVING OR MANUFACTURING DIVERS KINDS OF GOODS AND WARES, AND FOR MACHINES OR MACHINERY APPLICABLE THERETO
Year: 1835

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JOHN
HEATHCOAT, of Tiverton, in the County of Devon, Lace Manufacturer, send
greeting.
WHEREAS His most Excellent Majesty King William the Fourth, by
His Letters Patent under the Great Seal of the United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland, bearing date the Twenty-fourth day of December, in the
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and thirty-five, in the sixth year
of His reign, did, for Himself, His heirs and successors, give and grant unto
me, the said John Heathcoat, my executors, administrators, and assigns, His
especial licence, full power, sole privilege and authority, that I, the said John
Heathcoat, my executors, administrators, and assigns, by myself and them-
selves, or by my and their deputy or deputies, servants or agents, or such
others as I, the said John Heathcoat, my executors, administrators, or assigns
should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all
times thereafter during the term of fourteen years therein expressed, should
and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within that part of His
Majesty's United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland called England,
His Dominion of Wales, and Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, and also
in all His Majesty's Colonies and Plantations abroad, my Invention of "A
METHOD OR METHODS OF WEAVING OR MANUFACTURING DIVERS KINDS OF GOODS
AND WARES, AND FOR MACHINES OR MACHINERY APPLICABLE THERETO," in such
manner as to me, my executors, administrators, or assigns, should seem
meet; in which said Letters Patent there is contained a proviso obliging me,
the said John Heathcoat, by an instrument in writing under my hand and

page_text: seal, particularly to describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention,
and in what manner the same is to be performed, and to cause the same to be
inrolled in His Majesty's High Court of Chancery within six calendar months
next and immediately after the date of the said recited Letters Patent, as in
and by the same, reference being thereunto had, will more fully and at large
appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said John
Heathcoat, do hereby declare that the nature of the said Invention, and the
manner in which the same is to be performed, are more particularly described
and ascertained in and by the Drawings hereunto annexed and the following
description thereof (that is to say):-
My Invention of "A Method or Methods of Weaving or Manufacturing
divers Kinds of Goods and Wares, and for Machines or Machinery applicable
thereto," consists of new and improved mechanism, and arrangements of
machinery, whereby different articles, such as tapes, ribbons, edgings, and
other narrow fabrics may be manufactured with increased dispatch, and in less
room or space than by the machinery in common use for such purposes. The
chief point in which my newly-invented method of weaving narrow fabrics
differs from those commonly adopted is that the operation of weaving is
performed in a transverse direction, that is, at right angles to the back and
front of the machine, the tapes or other narrow fabrics standing edgewise
ranged side by side, their faces being parallel to each other, and to the ends of
the machine, whereas in the ordinary methods of weaving the weft threads
are laid in or inserted between the warp threads longitudinally in directions
parallel to the front of the machine. The machinery for effecting this object
admits of modifications in order to produce the different articles which may be
required; but as the chief feature or principle of my Invention will not be
changed, although its application be modified, I do not limit myself to the
particular forms and constructions of the several parts of the mechanism,
which I shall describe. For the illustration of my Invention, however, I
now proceed to explain one method of applying the same in the production of
narrow tapes or ribbons.
In the annexed Drawings (of which the same letters of reference
apply to identical parts in the different Figures), Figure 1 represents a
portion of a front elevation of the machine, Figure 2 is a vertical section
taken transversely, and Figure 3 is an end view of the machine arranged
for weaving tapes or ribbons. A, A, are end standards for supporting
the machinery, secured to the floor by their feet and braced together by
stays at the top. B is the driving shaft, which derives its movement from

page_text: any first moving power by means of a strap acting upon its pullies; and C is
the vertical shaft at the end of the machine; geared to the former by bevil
wheels. Upon these two shafts are fixed the different wheels, cams or cranks
which actuate the other parts of the machine. Dis the roller on which the
warp threads are wound. E, E, E, is a series of guide plates, through the holes
of which the said warp threads pass, and by which they are divided into sets,
each set being conducted in a range standing at right angles to the axis of
the warp roller. F, F, are a number of sleuder plates to act as headles,
placed close behind each other and extending along the length of the machine.
Through apertures formed between these plates the warp threads are con-
ducted, and by their lateral movements portions of the threads are carried to
the right and to the left for the purpose of crossing and opening the sheds of
the warp for the passage of the shuttles. In order to make these openings
between the different sets of warp threads wider and more distinct, a series
of flat points or teeth G, G, G, is pushed forward through them, and then
raised upwards about three inches, whereby the threads are disentangled from
cach other. For distinction, I call this part of the machine the rake.
H, H, H, are the shuttles (one of which is shewn in different positions, aud
at the full size, in Figures 4,) on the bobbin of which the material is wound
to form the weft, and which weft they are intended to carry through the
respective sets of warp threads after the said threads have crossed each other.
These shuttles slide on curved bolts from side to side across the machine.
I, I, is the slay or reed for beating up the work, of which the slips or divisions
are broad thin plates put together, so as to leave sufficient space between
them for the warp threads to pass through and to admit of their lateral
movement. K, K, are a row of stationary pins or guides for the purpose of
keeping the work parallel with the shuttles whilst the weaving goes on. Lis
a small roller for preserving the face of the work in a line; and M the work
roller, upon which and close beside each other the finished tapes or narrow
O ribbons are wound. From the foregoing general notice of the principal parts
of the machine and their relative positions, it will be seen wherein the
arrangement in my method of weaving narrow fabrics differs from the methods
in common use, and that a great diminution of the space usually occupied
ensues therefrom. It is now necessary to describe how the various operations
5 above alluded to may be performed, and the mechanism which is capable of
accomplishing the same. Let it be supposed that the cotton, silk, or other
material for the warp has been wound upon the warp roller D; the threads
conducted from thence through the guides E, E, the headles F, F, the
divisions of the slay I, I, the upper guides K, K, and secured to the work

page_text: roller M; the first movement required will be to cross the sets of warp
threads laterally by means of the headles. Each of these headles I make of
two long thin strips of brass or tin rivetted or soldered together, with oval
thickness pieces or counters between them at proper intervals, as shewn full
size in several positions at Figure 5, so as to leave openings for the threads
between each pair of counters. The beadle plates lie one behind the other,
adjusted so that their respective apertures shall be exactly opposite one
another across the machine, and slide lengthwise in bearings N, N, attached to
the standards and confined between longitudinal bars. For plain weaving the
headle plates are divided into two sets, carrying the alternate tbreads, of which,
at their right-hand end, one set bas ears or pieces projecting upwards and the
other set downwards. These two sets of cars are jointed to the links O, O,
by pins, whilst the opposite ends of the two said links are jointed to the lever
P, one link above and the other below its fulcrum. Wheels or studs on the
two ends of this lever work against the two cam wheels Q, Q, fixed on the
vertical shaft C, which cams (shewn detached at Fig. 9) are so formed as
by their revolution to give at the proper time an alternating movement
to the lever, and consequently to the headles, whereby half of the latter
are pushed in one direction whilst the other half are pulled in the
opposite one, and vice versa. For better illustrating this movement of the
headles, I have shewn it apart in Figure 6. The threads forming the warp of
each respective tape or ribbon baving been thus made to cross each other,
the flat points of the rake (one of which is shown in two positions of the full
size in Figures 7) are advanced through the openings just abore the headles,
and then made to ascend about three inches, for the purpose of disentangling
the threads, and thus preparing the way for the shuttles. To effect this
movement, the bar of the rake has two stems R, R, descending, and
connected by joints to the levers S, S, which bear upon the cam wheels T, T,
and receive an upward movement from the said cams as they revolve. It
will be seen also that the upper parts of the rake stems carry small studs,
which slide within the obtuse angled channels or grooves U, U, of brackets
fixed to the standards. Now, as the cams T, T, in revolving, cause the stems
of the rake to rise, the rake itself is forced by the studs confined within the
Jower parts of the grooves to advance through the threads at the commence-
ment of its movement, and then to rise perpendicularly; thus the flat points
of the rake straighten the threads, and clear the openings between them for
the passage of the shuttles; this done,
descend out of the way of the shuttles.
described forthwith) is allowed to do the
the cams T, T, allow the rake to
The slay, whose movement will be
same; and whilst this takes place,

page_text: the shuttles enter between the threads, and commence their passage across
the machine to lay in the weft. During the completion of this passage the
slay gradually begins to re-ascend, the headles again carry back the warp
threads; causing them to cross each other, and the rake recommences its
functions, so that the opening of the warp threads may be ready for the
return of the shuttles. An enlarged view of one of the shuttles is shewn in
Figures 4. The bobbins for containing the weft may be made of brass or
other metal, so as to turn in grooves within their carriages, the threads being
kept at the required tension by means of curved springs capable of adjust-
ment. It will be seen that there are curved grooves on the sides of the
carriages, in order to enable them to slide upon the bolts V, V, which are
cast in leads and screwed to the bars W, W; the carriages have also mortices
in their upper parts, designed for receiving the ends of the small fingers or
hooks XX, cast also in leads, and screwed to other bars Y, Y, whereby they are
alternately pushed and pulled along the curved bolts from back to front and
front to back of the machine. The bolt bars W, W, and finger bars Y, Y,
are suspended by arms at their ends from the studs Z, Z, screwed to the
standards of the machine, upon which studs tho said bars are capable of
vibrating. The arms which suspend the outer bars or finger arms Y, Y, have
towards their extremities studs a, by means of which and the links b, b, they
are connected with the projecting arms of the lever shafts c, c.
These lover
shafts have each an arm d, d, at the end of the machine next the vertical
shaft, of which the two extremities bear against the cams e, e, fixed upon the
said shaft. These cams, represented detached and in plan view at Figures 8;
are so shaped as at suitable times, and through the medium of the lever, shafts,
links, and studs, to give alternate vibrations outwards and inwards to tho
finger bars and fingers for moving the shuttles to and fro. On the ends of
the finger bars, which are mounted on studs and are capable of turning in
their arms, which suspend them, are affixed small pieces carrying anti-friction
rollers ff, which, as the said bars vibrate, slide backwards and forwards
within the grooved pieces 9, 9, attached to the bolt bars, and from the form
and direction of the groove, the ends of the fingers are forced downwards at
the commencement of its outward movements, and after completing the same,
on its return it is by the same groove forced upwards again to the same
position. Now, by the alternate movement of each bar, caused by the cams e, e,
it will be perceived that one set of fingers or books X, X, will descend into the
mortises of the shuttles, and draw them along just as the other fingers are
liberated therefrom, and vice versa. Thus the shuttles are moved alternately
from front to back and from back to front of the machine, and thereby

page_text: the weft threads are conducted between the respective sets of warp threads.
The next operation required is that of beating up the weft by the slay or
reed I. This slay or reed I make of a number of straight slender brass
or other plates, which are held between two light iron bars, secured firmly
together at their ends. It is necessary also at intervals to insert pins, fastened
in slips of brass, between the plates or divisions of the slay, to preserve their
parallelism. The slay thus composed is mounted upon two crank rods h, h,
by its ends, and derives its movements from the cranks i, i, on the driving
shaft, which by their revolutions alternately elevate and depress the slay by
which the work is beaten up. Upon the ends of the slay frame are studs and
oblong sliding pieces, which slide in the groove within the cheeks j, j, attached
to the standard, by means of which the movements of the slay are preserved
in nearly perpendicular directions. Of course the number of the plates consti-
tuting the reed, like the headles, must depend upon the number of warp
threads required, and the width and quality of the article to be produced;
there being as many headle plates as warp threads in each tape, but only
half as many divisions in the slay. I may also add that the number of
shuttles (and consequently of tapes or ribbons) must depend upon the width
of the machine and the width of each tape, which I prefer to wind close
beside each other on the work roller, so as to occupy all the surface of it.
I have before observed that the bolt bars W, W, as well as the finger bars,
are capable of vibrating. In order to make way for the slay to pass between
the bolts V, truck wheels k, k, upon the two ends of the slay frame, press as
it ascends against inclined pieces 1, 1, attached to the bolt bars, and thus force
them outwards sufficiently to allow the slay to pass between the ends of the
bolts. The slay frame in descending allows these bars to collapse again.
Here I would observe, that as the bevil wheels which connect the driving
shaft B with the vertical shaft C are in the proportion of one to two, the
cranks on the former make two revolutions for one of the cams on the latter.
Thus the slay makes two beats during the alternate motions of the headles and
shuttles, which forms the routine of the operation. The tapes or ribbons
produced are passed through the guides K, K, which preserve them parallel
with the shuttles. They are then allowed to turn into the same plane as the
axis of the work roller by the small roller L, and afterwards received side by
sido upon the surface of the work roller.
It only remains for me to explain how motion is imparted at intervals to
the warp and work rollers, in order to furnish the necessary portion of warp
and to wind up the work as it is made. On the ends of these two rollers there
are worm wheels, gearing into corresponding worms on the small tranverse

page_text: shafts or spindles m, m. These shafts have affixed at their ends fine ratchet
wheels. There are also levers n, n, mounted loosely upon the said spindles,
carrying palls or clicks o, o. Upon the vertical shaft C is fixed a double
tappet wheel p, p, which in revolving elevates the lever q, bearing upon it.
A bolt or rod r, sliding in bearings or sockets against the end of the machine,
receives its vertical motion from the said lever q, and at the same time, by
means of projecting pieces or ears, lifts up the pall levers n, n, and thus
causes a slight movement to the two ratchet wheels, which is imparted to the
two rollers. There being two tappets on the wheel p, this slight motion is
produced after each beat of the slay; thus one roller gives off a portion of
the warp whilst the other winds up the work made. In order to provide
against the irregularity of the texture of the work which would be occasioned
by the increasing diameter of the work roller, I apply what may be called a
regulator; this consists of an L-shaped lever s, one leg of which carries a
small roller, bearing against the face of the tapes on the work roller, and the
other leg supports a bolt t, which slides against the standard; from this bolt
projects a piece which serves as a stop for the guage screw of the upper pall
lever n to drop upon. Now, as the work roller increases in diameter, the lever
will raise the bolt and stop, and by shortening the space through which the
pall lever and ratchet wheel move, lessens the quantity of motion imparted to
the work roller. By this contrivance the fabric is preserved of uniform
texture.
Hlaving thus shewn the application of my Invention to the production of
plain tapes or narrow ribbons, and described the mechanism I use for that
purpose, I do not consider it necessary to enter into the various modifications of
which it is susceptible, in order to adapt it to the manufacture of other narrow
fabrics and small wares. In the production of ornamented or fancy fabrics it
may be found necessary, where different portions of the warp shall be required
of different thicknesses or different degrees of tension, instead of one warp
roller to employ several. The headles also, instead of being divided into two
sets, each half of them moving together, require (for some patterns) a separate
and independent movement for each headle, according to the peculiar formation
of such patterns, the cams or tappets commonly called the cut of wheels
being made to produce such particular device. In this case it will be found
requisite to place the cam wheels which actuate the headles upon an extra
spindle or shaft, whose rotation shall be as many times slower than the driving
shaft as there are beats or picks in the whole course of the pattern to be
produced. These and other modifications or combinations my new method
of weaving narrow fabrics may undergo, and still retain the essential features

page_text: of my Invention, namely, of performing the operation of weaving many narrow
fabrics or small wares together, the weft being inserted or laid in transversely,
or at right angles to the back and front of the machine; therefore I do not
limit my claim to any one of such modifications.
In conclusion, I do not claim as new all the respective parts of the
machinery above described, but the arrangement and combination of the same
for the above mentioned purposes, namely, for giving effect to my new method
of weaving narrow fabrics, as above described.