Improvements in Overedge Sewing Machines.
Year: 1893

page_text: Date of Application, 23rd May, 1893
Complete Specification Left, 20th Feb., 1894-Accepted, 19th May, 1894
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Overedge Sewing Machines.
I LOUIS BOLLMANN, an Engineer, residing in Vienna in the Empire of
Austria, II. Obere Donaustrasse 93 do hereby declare the nature of this invention
to be as follows:-
This invention relates to jute-sewing-machines for producing a singlethreaded
locked seam, which cannot be unraveled, and its nature consists in a peculiar shuttle,
rotating twice or more times for each stitch, combined with mechanism for
controlling the sewing thread, and with a crotchet needle, passing from above
through the cloth, in the open eye of which is laid the sewing thread below the
cloth, the arrangements being such, that as the needle rises again, a loop is formed
on the needle above the cloth, which is seized and extended by the shuttle and
pulled around the threadspool situated within the latter. It consists also in
peculiar arrangements for replenishing the shuttle with new thread, and for
tightening the stitches.
In the annexed drawings are Fig. 1 a side view partly in central section; Fig. 2
an end view, and Fig. 3 a plan view of the machine. The Figs. 4 to 15 are detail
views to explain the several positions of the shuttle and its connections while
forming a stitch; the Figs. 4, 6, 8, 10, 12 and 14 being side views, and Figs. 5, 7,
11, 13 and 15 top views. The Figs. 16 to 19 are intended to explain the nature
of the seam produced by this machine.
Equal letters denote the same parts in all figures.
The cloth S to be seamed lies on the needleplate H, Figs. 4 and 5, and is fed
at each stitch towards the needle by any suitable feeding mechanism, which is not
shown in the drawings. The crotchet-needle N is fastened to needlebar N' (or
its equivalent) above the needleplate, and obtains its up and down motion by a
lever R and cam R', Figs. 1 & 2 or in any other suitable manner; it enters the
cloth without thread in its eye, seizes the thread passing out from the bottom of
the shuttle A, below the needleplate, and pulls it up through the cloth as a loop
(as shown in Fig. 4), where it is seized and extended by the hook of the shuttle,
and thus pulled around the spool or ball of thread placed within, as shown in the
Figs. 6 and 7.
The shuttle A is carried by a number of studs F, Fig. 4, bearing near the
periphery of the shuttledriver G, and extending into corresponding sockets in
the bottom of the shuttle; each of those studs sinks down, when it comes near
the needlehole of the plate H, in order that the thread may pass freely towards the
seam, they being acted on by an immoveable camlike segment F¹ below G; after
having passed the thread, they are again raised into the sockets of A.
It may
here be remarked, that this method of carrying and driving the shuttle forms no
part of this Patent Application, and that the shuttle may be driven in any other
manner.
The thread is wound in form of a flat ball C, which lais in a circular case B,
Fig. 8, closed by a cover B¹. The thread unwinds from the inside of the ball, and
passes first upwards through the centre hole of B'; then through the hole b'
downwards to the bottom of the case and around the roller D' on the end of the
lever D (Fig. 5), and around the roller E, at the bottom of B. The lever D bears
moveably at the centre of the bottom of the case, and is pressed by a spring (not
shown in the figures), so that it tends to swing in such direction, that the roller D'

page_text: :
moves away from the roller E, both acting on the thread like a pair of pulleys, said
spring keeping the thread slightly stretched. From roller. E the thread passes
through the eye of the piece b, at the bottom of the case, and then towards the
seam. (Figs. 4, 5 and 8.)
The case B fits tight in the shuttle; when the thread is to be replenished, it is
quickly removed, and another one placed in, in which the thread has been already
arranged and threaded through the several eyes, ready for use, in order that there
may be no loss of time.
The shuttle rotates continually twice for every stitch; during the first rotation
it seizes and extends the loop, while during the second the required time is
gained to finish the stitch and form the next stitch.
If the loop has been drawn around the shuttle, the parts come from the position
Figs. 4 and 5 to that of Figs. 6 and 7; the roller D' is now pulled towards the
roller E, by the tension of the thread, because that length of the latter, which has
been in Fig. 4 and 5 between b', D' and E, has now been used up for the extension
of the loop around the shuttle.
As the shuttle rotates further, the loop must be gradually closed again by
mechanically pulling the roller D₁ away from roller E, to the position, shown in
Figs. 10 and 11. This is effected by a nose of lever D, striking at the right
moment against the pin d, which does not rotate with the shuttle, and thus stops
the lever, while the roller E rotates to the position Fig. 11, when the pin d drops
down, and sets the lever D free to rotate with the shuttle, as before. This pin d is
fastened on plate d, (Figs. 4 and 11) forming the head of the shaft d", which
passes through the hollow shaft of the shuttledriver G, and is mechanically moved
up and down without rotating, by a cam V₁ (Figs. 1 and 2) situated below the
machine and acting against the sliding piece V, connected to d¹.
The thread passing from the eye towards the previous made stitch, is now
laid around the edge of the seam, whereby the said stitch is drawn tight, which
is accomplished by the lever J, that swings in bearings J¹ J of the needle arm Q
(Figs. 1, 2 and 3). It moves from position Fig. 7 to Fig. 11, at first with its point
towards the shuttle, and downwards between the needleplate and the shuttle, so as
to seize the thread coming from below the shuttle; then it moves upwards and
to the left to position Fig. 11, laying thereby the thread around the edge of the
seam, and pulling the stitch tight, so that the locking of the upper and lower
part of the thread comes to lay near the stitchhole, and on the upper side of
the seam, as is shown in the Figs. 16, 18 and 19. Fig. 17 showes the lower side
of the cloth. To make space for the said downward motion of the point of
lever J, the circumference of the shuttle is cut out at A', Fig. 7 & 6.
In order to assure the seizing of the lower part of the thread by the lever J,
a rounded segment ƒ (Figs. 4, 6 & 7) is fastened to the edge of the shuttledriver G,
which raises the thread at the moment, when the point of J comes down.
.
When the needle has been lowered through the cloth, the thread is laid into its
open eye by the lower lever K, moving from its position Fig. 11 (which it occupies
also in the Figs. 7 and 15) into the position Fig. 13, seizing thereby the thread
coming from the shuttle, and drawing it to the left, so that it must enter the
needleeye; at the same time the upper lever J moves towards the needle, as
shown in Fig. 13, in order to give the required length of thread free.
The needle then rises again, and the parts assume the position Fig. 15 (which is
the same as in Fig. 5); the levers J and K have thereby set the thread, for
forming the loop above the cloth, free, the shuttle seizes again that loop, to:extend
it, whereby it is drawn out of the needleeye, and the described actions follow one
another in the same order during the formation of the next stitch.
L
The needlebar N¹ (Figs. 1, 2 and 3) and the lever J receive their motions by
cams R¹ and T, levers R and T', as is easily understood by inspection of the
drawings. The up and down, motion of lever J is produced by a pin on the needle-
bar N, which acts against a lever J¹¹, connected to the shaft J of said: lever J.
'The lower lever K is moved by a cam K¹ and doublelever K". It is evident, that

page_text: the arrangements and the mechanism for giving the parts their required motions,
might be modified in other ways as those shown in the Figs. 1, 2 & 3.
Dated this 16th day of May 1893.
LOUIS BOLLMANN.
Improvements in vereage Sewing machines.
I, LOUIS BOLLMANN of Vienna in Austria, II. Obere Donaustrasse No. 93, an
Engineer do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement :-
In regard to the drawings for this Complete Specification I refer to those left in
the Provisional Specification.
This invention relates to sewing machines for producing a single threaded locked
seam which cannot be unraveled, and its nature consists in a peculiar shuttle rotating
twice or more times for each stitch, combined with mechanism for controlling the
sewing thread, and with a hook or tambour-needle, passing from above through
the cloth, in the open eye of which is laid the sewing thread below the cloth, the
arrangements being such, that, as the needle rises again, a loop is formed on it
above the cloth, which is seized and extended by said shuttle and pulled around the
threadspool situated within the latter. It consists also in peculiar arrangements for
replenishing the shuttle with new thread and for drawing the stitch tight.
In the drawings are.
Fig. 1, a side view partly in central section, Fig. 2, a front view and Fig. 3 a
plan view of the machine.
Figs. 4 to 15 are detail views to explain the actions during the several positions
of the shuttle and its connections while forming a stitch, Figs. 4, 6, 8, 10, 12 and 14
being side views, and 5, 7, 11, 13, and 15 top views.
Figs. 16 to 19 are intended to explain the nature of the seam produced by this
machine.
T
The same letters denote the same parts in all figures.
The cloth S to be seamed lies on the needle-plate H, Figs. 4 and 5, and is
transported by any suitable feeding-mechanism (which is not shown) towards the
needle.
The hook needle N is fastened to a needle-bar N', (or what is equivalent, to the
end of a needle-lever) above the needle-plate, and obtains its up- and down-motion
by a lever R with cam R', or in any other suitable manner. It enters the cloth
without thread in its eye, seizes the thread passing out from the bottom of the
shuttle A, below the needle-plate, and pulls it upwards through the cloth as a loop
(as shown in Fig. 4), where it is seized and extended by the hook of the shuttle,
and thus pulled around the spool (or ball of thread) situated within, as shown in
Figs. 6 and 7.
The shuttle A is carried by a number of studs F, Fig. 4, bearing near the
periphery of the shuttle-driver G, and extending into corresponding sockets in the
bottom of the shuttle; each of those studs sinks down, when it comes near
the needle, in order that the thread may pass freely towards the seam, they being
moved up and down by a camlike segment F (Figs. 1, 2 and 4) fastened to the
upper bearing for the drivershaft G'. This method of carrying and driving,
forms no part of my invention; any other arrangement may be used for it.
The flat ball of thread C lies in a circular case B, Fig. 8, closed by a cover B¹;
it unwinds from the inside, and the thread passes first upwards through the hole in
the centre of B; then through the hole & downwards to the bottom of the case,
and around the roller D' on the end of lever D, (Fig. 5); then around roller E, at

page_text: the bottom of the case B. The lever D bears moveably in the centre of the case,
and is pressed by a spring (not shown), so that it tends to move roller D' away
from roller E; D' and E act therefore like a pair of pulleys, said spring keeping
the thread slightly stretched. From roller E the thread passes through a hole in
the part b, fastened to the bottom of the case, and then towards the seam to be
made. Figs. 4, 5 and 8.
The case B fits tightly in the shuttle, and can be easily removed and replaced by
another one with the thread arranged and passed through the several holes, ready
for use, in order that there may be no loss of time to replenish the thread.
The shuttle rotates twice for one stitch; during the first rotation it seizes and
extends the loop, and during the next, the stitch is finished and the loop for the next
one formed. It may also rotate 3 times for one stitch.
When the shuttle has fully expanded the loop, the parts change from position
Figs. 4 and 5 to position Figs. 6 and 7; the roller D' is now pulled towards
roller E, by the tension of the thread, because the length of the latter between b¹, D'
and E, in Figs. 4 and 5, is now used up for the extension of the loop around the
shuttle. This loop is then to be gradually closed again, by pulling roller D' away
from roller E, as shown in Figs. 10 and 11, which is effected by a nose of lever D
striking at the moment required against the pin d, which does not rotate with the
shuttle and thus stops the lever, while roller E rotates on to position Fig. 11.
Pin d drops then down, and sets the lever D free to rotate with the shuttle as before.
This pin d is fastened to plate d' (Figs. 4 and 11) forming the head of the shaft d",
which passes through the hollow shaft G' of the shuttle-driver G and is mechanically
moved up and down, without rotating, by a cam V', (Figs. 1 and 2) situated below
and acting against the gliding piece V, connected to the shaft d¹¹.
The thread between 6 (at the bottom of the shuttlecase) and the stitch made
previously is now laid around the edge of the seam by lever J, which swings in
bearings JV J of the needle-arm Q (Figs. 1, 2 and 3), and moves from position
Fig. 7 to Fig. 11, at first with its point towards the shuttle, and downwards between
the needleplate and shuttle, so as to seize the thread coming from the shuttlecase;
then it moves upwards and to the left to position Fig. 11, laying thereby the thread
around the edge of the seam and pulling the stitch, previously made, tight, so
that the locking of the upper and lower parts of the thread comes to lie near
the stitchhole and the upper side of the seam, as shown in Figs. 16, 18 and 19.
Fig. 17 shows the lower side of the cloth.
In order to make space for the downward motion of lever J, the shuttle has a
notch A, (Figs. 6 and 7) cut in its circumference, and to assure the seizing of the
lower thread by the point of J, a rounded segment f, Figs. 4, 6 and 7, is fastened
to the edge of the shuttledriver G, which raises the thread at the moment, when J
comes down..
When the needle has been lowered through the cloth, the thread is laid into its
open eye by the lever K, situated below the needle plate, and moving from position
Fig. 15 (which it occupies also in the Figs. 7 and 11). into position Fig. 13,
seizing thereby the thread, coming from the shuttle and drawing it to the left, so
that it must enter the needleeye; at the same time, the upper lever J moves towards
the needle, to give the required length of thread free..
The needle rises then again and the parts assume the position Fig. 15, which is
the same as in Fig. 5. The levers J and K bave set the thread, for forming the
loop above the cloth free, the shuttle seizes again that loop, to extend it, whereby
it is pulled out of the needleeye, and the described actions take place in the same
order while the next stitch is formed.
The needlebar N₁, Figs. 1, 2 and 3, and lever J. receive their motions by cams R¹
and T, acting on levers R and T', as is easily understood by inspection of the
drawings. The up- and down-motion of J is produced by a pin on the needlebar N'
acting on the lever J, connected to the shaft J of said lever J. The lower
lever K is moved by cam K' and doublelever K". ศ.
31
It is evident, that the arrangements and the shown mechanism for moving the
**

page_text: parts might be modified and combined in different ways, without changing the nature
of the invention.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is:
1. Producing an overedge seam with a single thread by the combination of a
rotating diskshuttle with a needle having an open needleeye, both situated and
acting above the needleplate, said needle entering the cloth from above without
thread in its eye, seizing the thread passing out from the shuttle and drawing it up
through the cloth as a loop, which is seized by the shuttle above the cloth, and
pulled around the spool or ball of thread within the shuttle, whereby a perfect knot
is formed over the edges of the seam, that cannot be unraveled.
2. Controlling the length of the sewing thread by means of mechanism, situated
within and rotating with the said shuttle, by which the thread, drawn out from the
shuttle for forming the large loop around the shuttle, is pulled back again to close
said loop, substantially as herein set forth.
3. To rotate said diskshuttle twice or more times for each stitch, in order to
get time, without stopping the rotation of the shuttle, to lay the thread around the
edges of the seam, to draw the stitch tight and to form the needleloop for the next
stitch.
4. To pull the stitch tight above the cloth by means of a moveable lever, situated
above the needleplate, which seizes the thread coming from the shuttle, and pulls it
up as a loop around the edges of the seam towards and beyond the needlehole, so as
to bring the knotting of the thread on the upper side of the seam, substantially as
herein set forth.
5. The separate thread case of the shuttle, with the parts for controlling the
length of thread mounted on it, said case being removeable, to be replaced by
another one supplied with new thread ready for use, in order to save time in
replenishing the shuttle with thread, substantially as herein set forth.
Dated this 10th February 1894.
LOUIS BOLLMANN.