Shoes.
Year: 1888

page_text: Date of Application, 8th May, 1888
Specification Accepted, 8th June, 1888
Shoes.
I JOSEPH STANLEY TURNER of Rockland, County of Plymouth in the State of
Massachusetts, one of the United States of America, Shoe Manufacturer, do hereby
declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed,
to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
In the manufacture of boots and shoes of the class commonly termed "welted," or
a boot or shoe wherein the outer sole is attached by a line of stitches outside the upper,
it has been common to remove the last previous to sewing on the sole so that the
upper could be moved inwardly particularly on the long shank side to thus expose
or present the edge of the sole to a sole sewing machine in order that the needle may
penetrate the sole close to the upper.
Such has been the practice heretofore more particularly when the sole sewing
machine employed had a straight needle, as in the sole sewing machine known as
the "Campbell."
This invention has for its object to provide a last, only a portion of which need
be removed or displaced when the sole is to be sewed in place at the long shank
side, the main body or sole portion of the last being retained in the boot or shoe.
The invention consists in a last having a displaceable portion at its long shank side
to operate, as and for the purposes to be described.
Also in a last, the main body portion, combined with a last block cut from
the main body portion upon the inner or long shank side thereof, substantially as
will be described

page_text: Also in a last, the main body portion, combined with a last block cut from the side
of the main body portion in a line at an angle with relation to the plane of the bottom
of the last, the said dividing line upon the long shank side of the last, substantially
coinciding with the bottom of the last, as will be described.
Also in a last the main body or sole portion, and the block, combined with an
auxiliary portion, substantially as described.
Also in a last the main body and the block, combined with the auxiliary portion cut
from the long shank side of the main body beneath the block and attached to a
component part of the last, substantially as will be described.
Also in a last having the material or portion removed at the instop portion mainly
upon the long shank side, and also having an additional portion removed upon the
long shank side to present a space, substantially as will be described.
Figure 1 in side elevation shows a last embodying this invention.
Figure 2 a cross section of the last shown in Figure 1 taken on the dotted
line x-x.
Figure 3 a modification to be referred to.
Figure 4 shows in side elevation a last embodying this invention.
Figure 5 a similar view, the last block and the auxiliary portion, being removed.
Figure 6 a top view of the last shown in Figure 5.
Figure 7 a cross section of the last shown in Figure 6, taken on the dotted
line x-x.
Figure 8 a cross section of the block portion of the last and the auxiliary removeable
portion taken on the dotted line y-y, Figure 4.
Figure 9 a view similar to Figure 7, the material between the line of severance
of the auxiliary portion and the true contour of the bottom or sole and the last being
removed.
Figures 10 and 11 cross sections of a modified form of last to be referred to, and
Figures 12 and 13 a side view and section of another modified form of last to be
referred to.
The last A, is and may be of any usual shape, size or material.
The last block is formed by removing or cutting from the main body 6 of the last,
a portion represented by a, the line of the cut being at an angle with relation to the
plane of the bottom of the last, as best shown in Figure 2, the line of the cut extending
from the bottom of the last or nearly so upon the inner or long shank side of the
last upward to a point near the instep portion of the last, but upon the opposite side
thereof.
The block a formed as described, to form the inner or long shank side of the last,
when removed or displaced permits the upper of the boot or shoe to be pushed back
from immediately over the main body 6 of the last entering the space left by the
removal or displacement of the last block to thereby expose the welt and outer
sole upon the long shank side of the shoe to the action of the needle of a shoe sewing
machine.
In the manufacture of a boot or shoe when it is desired to secure an outer sole or
to stitch the outer sole or welt together, the last block a will be removed or displaced
to permit the needle of the sewing machine to penetrate the edge of the outer sole
entirely about the forepart and the shank portion of the boot or shoe.
f may if desired, cut the last block a from the main body somewhat differently
from that shown in Figure 2, such for instance as shown in Figure 3, in which
instance both sides of the last are cut away to be removed as a component part of the
last block.
By cutting off the block in the manner described, the strength of the main body of
the last is also materially increased.
Referring to Figures 4 to 13 inclusive, the main body e of the last has a removeable
block d cut therefrom or made as a separate piece and fitted thereto, the block being
of any usual or suitable shape.
The main body c of the last has also an auxiliary portion e removed from the long

page_text: shank side thereof beneath the block d, the line of severance of the said auxiliary
portion at the lower side coinciding with the desired contour of the bottom of the sole
of the last, or to the shape of the sole to be applied to the bottom of the last.
The auxiliary portion e may be removed independently or it may be attached to
a component part of the last, it being herein shown as attached to the last block d so
as to be removed from contact with the interior of the upper after starting to
withdraw the usual last block.
In this way it will be seen that an old last may be remodelled, if desired, by simply
cutting away the auxiliary portione and attaching it, or not, as desired, to a component
part of the last.
The last is employed in usual manner until the boot or shoe has reached the shank
where the sole is to be stitched on and then instead of removing the entire last as
now practised the block d and the auxiliary portion e are both removed from the
position they normally occupy to permit the upper to be drawn or pushed back over
the main body of the last to thereby present upon all sides the edge of the sole to a
sole sewing machine without obstruction.
As it is desirable that the needle should penetrate the sole as closely as possible to
the upper upon all sides substantially alike, it is especially desirable that the line of
severance of the auxiliary portion at its lower side should exactly coincide with the
desired contour of the bottom of the last as to the shape of the sole to be applied to
the bottom of the last, and as it is very difficult to direct or guide a saw to effect this
result, I place upon the bottom of the last after the auxiliary portion has been removed,
as above described a sole of the shape desired, and then with a knife or other suitable
implement remove the material, see Figures 7 and 9, between the line of severance of
the auxiliary portion and the edge of the sole, or it may be a line indicating tho
position occupied by the sole, if for instance, a line should be made and the sole
thereafter removed.
The very small space or cavity 50 thus formed is not objectionable. In Figures 10
and 11 I have shown the last block-d cut from the main body or sole portion of the
last, as above described, and the auxiliary portion as e cut from each side of the main
body or sole portion c and attached to the block to better carry out the chief aim
of this invention.
In Figures 12 and 13 I have shown the block d cut from the main body or solo
portion of the last, as above described, and the auxiliary portion e instead of being
cut from one side only of the main body, is cut from the whole upper surface of the
main body after the block d has been removed, as best shown in Figure 13, the
portion e being preferably attached to the block d, the line of severance extending
nearly to the heel portion of the last.
In this form of last the main body or sole portion c is materially weakened at the
shank and must be strengthened as by a strip of metal secured to the sole of the last;
and instead of cutting off the block & and the portion e as two independent pieces as
described it may be cut in one piece.
In this latter form of last the material removed between the line of severance of the
block and the sole portion of the last would necessarily be somewhat thicker than that
in the construction before described.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. A last having a displaceable portion at its long shank side to operate, as and for
the purposes set forth.
2. In a last, the main body portion, combined with a last block cut from the main
body portion upon the inner or long shank side thereof, substantially as described.
3. In a last, the main body portion, combined with a last block cut from the side
of the main body portion in a line at an angle with relation to the plane of the bottom

page_text: of the last, the said dividing line upon the long shank side of the last, substantially
coinciding with the bottom of the last, as set forth.
4. In a last, the main body or sole portion, and the block, as described, combined
with the auxiliary portion, substantially as and for the purposes specified.
5. In a last, the main body and the block, combined with the auxiliary portion cut
from the long shank side of the main body beneath the block and attached to a
component part of the last, substantially as described.
6. A last having the material or portion removed at the instep portion mainly upon
the long shank side, and also having an additional portion removed upon the long
shank side to present a space, substantially as described.
Dated the 8th day of May 1888
WM. BROOKES & SON,
55 & 56, Chancery Lane, London,
Agents for the Applicant.