Year: 1896

page_text: Date of Application (in the United Kingdom), 20th Feb., 1896
Complete Specification Left, 20th Feb., 1896-Accepted, 12th Dec., 1896
I, MATHIEU DARIMONT, of 7, Rue de Liège, Verviers, in the Kingdom of
Belgium, Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement:-
For the manufacture of standard patterns in weaving Jacquard looms are
generally employed, the warp threads of which show a different arrangement of
colours for each section or division of the cumber-board. By this means a number
of patterns is obtained equal to the number of sections, the said patterns being
different from one another in the arrangement of colours, but all showing the same
intersection of the threads.
According to my invention, however, I am enabled to obtain from a single series
of cards a number of patterns corresponding to the number of the sections, each of
which patterns has a different intersection of the threads and at the same time
shows a different arrangement of colours. To attain this end, the harness-cords in
each section of the cumber-board, (or in dobby machines the warp threads in the
divisions of the shafts) are arranged in groups, or are drawn through in such a
manner that the harness-cords or the warp threads of each section are arranged in
a different order whereby a different intersection or pattern is obtained.
In the accompanying drawing,
Figure 1 shews a cumber-board with the six first and the six last neck cords of
a Jacquard loom, the barness cords being drawn through in different orders in the
different sections of the cumber-board:
Figure 2 shews on a larger scale the arrangement of a cumber-board with
ten sections of which the first is arranged in the ordinary manner, whilst the
harness-cords are drawn through the others in such a manuer as to form
permutations.
In the second section every two cords are grasped together and combined in
as many different ways as possible whereby they are drawn in the following
order 2, 1; 4, 3; 6, 5.; 8, 7, and so on, through the holes of the cumber-board.
When three cords are grouped together the numbers 1, 2, 3 can be arranged as
follows, riz.:-1, 3, 2; 2, 1, 3; 2, 3, 1; 3, 1, 2; and 3, 2, 1. Five permutations
are therefore obtained. In the third section the combination 2, 3, 1, is shewn,
whilst in the fourth section three groups of three cords each are arranged in
permutation in the order 1, 3, 2, so that a permutation is obtained in a group
comprising nine cords.
According to the known laws of permutations, by combining in this manner four
or more cords in groups, a very large number of combinations can be obtained; for
instance, in sections 4 to 8, every 8 cords are arranged in a different order.
Instead of arranging the groups of cords directly behind one another, the said

page_text: groups can be caused to cross one another; for instance, the cords of a section may
be divided into two groups containing odd and even numbers; whilst in the first
.section the even and odd numbers follow one another in their natural order, a
permutation or new combination is obtained by allowing the odd numbers to
remain stationary and the even numbers to be moved forward one or more points.
By moving forward one point, a row is obtained as follows:-1, ; 3, 2, 5, 4;
7, 6, 9, 8, which forms a permutation of groups comprising four cords. Should,
however, the two groups be moved forward more than one point, for instance, two
points, the following result is obtained, viz. -1, x, 2, x, x, 5, 2, 7, 4, 9, 6, 11, 8,
and so on, which is, up to the first four cords, according to the regular law of
permutations. This example is shown in section 10; the first cords are irregularly
drawn through as the points which are above referred to as x and x, x are left out,
and the cords 1 and 3 are exchanged for one another. The cords 190 and 192
should have been drawn through in their places but this would have caused
defects in the cording. In comparison with these defects the errors in the
pattern produced by the irregular arrangement of the first cords are not of
importance.
If, now, the whole number of the cords be divided into three groups, the said
groups being formed each time by passing over two cords, further permutations.
can then be obtained by shifting these groups.
The different groups formed in this way would contain the following cords,
order becomes as follows:-
1, x, x1, 4, 2, x2, 7, 5, 3, 10, 8, 6, 13, 11, 9, 16, 14, 12, etc. The points x, x1, x³,
can again be simply left out. In the same manner still further permutations
may be formed the groups in each case being shifted relatively with one another.
Further permutations can be obtained by exchanging the cords which are
arranged in groups with one another in the above described mauner. The groups
may also be displaced in the same manner as those cords which are not arranged
in groups. For instance, in section 2, by changing the cords according to
section 9, the following is obtained :-6, 5, 2, 1, 10, 9, 4, 3, 14, 13, 8, 7, 18, 17,
12, 11, etc.
Further permutations are obtained by arranging the single groups combined in
as many different ways as possible to follow one another, for instance, if the
group 1, 2, 3, be followed by the group 4, 6, 5, and then the group 9, 8, 10, etc., by
utilizing all possible permutations of each three cords repetition commences after
six groups, and thereby a permutation is obtained in a group of three multiplied
by six, that is to say, 18 cords.
From this different arrangement of the cords in the different sections it follows
that the intersection effected by the card will be altered in the different sections
according to distinct laws, so that for each single section a pattern of a particular
intersection is obtained, whilst heretofore it was necessary to employ a separate
card for each different intersection.
In the same manner when dobbies are employed, the warp threads can be
divided into a number of groups which can be drawn through the healds in
permutations so that each group of the warp threads weaves a different pattern.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. A method for simultaneously weaving different patterns on Jacquard looms,

page_text: such method consisting in arranging the harness-cords in groups to form permu-
tations in the various sections or divisions of the cumber-board of the loom so that
when weaving by means of a single card as many different patterns are obtained in
the breadth of the fabric as there are sections or divisions in the cumber-board
substantially as described.
2. The modification of the method described in Claim 1 for its application to
looms provided with dobbies wherein the warp threads are divided into a number
of divisions which are combined in groups so as to form permutations whereby each
division weaves a different pattern substantially as described.
Dated the 19th day of February 1896.
G. F. REDFERN & Co.,
4, South Street, Finsbury, London, Agents for the Applicant.