IMPROVE- MENTS IN MANUFACTURING LACE AND OTHER FABRICS BY LACE MACHINERY
Year: 1846

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, WILLIAM
CLARKE, of Nottingham, and WILLIAM VICKERS the younger, of the same
place, Lace Manufacturers, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Royal Letters Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date
at Westminster, the Seventeenth day of January, in the ninth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and-successors, give and grant unto us, the
said William Clarke and William Vickers, our exors, adiñors, and assigns,
Her especial licence, full power, sole privilege and authority, that we, the
said William Clarke and William Vickers, our exors, adiñors, and assigns,
or such others as we, the said William Clarke and William Vickers, our
exors, adiñors, or assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from
time to time and at all times during the term of years therein expressed,
should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within England,
Wales, and the Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, our Invention of "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN MANUFACTURING LACE AND OTHER FABRICS BY LACE MACHINERY;"
in which said Letters Patent there is contained a proviso that we, the said.
William Clarke and William Vickers, shall cause a particular description of
the nature of our said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per- -
formed, to be inrolled in Her said Majesty's High Court of Chancery within
six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said in part

page_text: recited Letters Patent, as in and by the same, reference being thereunto hind,
will more fully and at large appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, we, the said
William Clarke and William Vickers, do hereby declare that the nature
of our Invention, and the manner in which the same is to be performed,
are fully described and ascertained in and by the following statement thereof,
reference being had to the Drawings hereunto annexed, and to the figures and
letters marked thereon, that is to say :-
Our Invention consists,-
First, of so arranging bobbin-net or twist-lace machinery that the warp
threads used therein may be opened into what are called sheds, and thus
allow of shuttles with weft being thrown through the warps so as to allow
of ordinary weavings (with warp and shuttle) being produced in addition
to and in combination with twist-lace fabrics in such descriptions of machines.
Secondly, our Invention consists in so arranging warp-lace machinery that a
shed may from time to time be opened between the warp threads and a shuttle
carrying weft be thrown through.
Thirdly, our Invention consists of manufacturing piled fabrics in twist-
lace machines in the character of terry and cut velvet.
Fourthly, our Invention consists of so arranging and working warp lace
frames that piled fabrics may be produced therein in pattern by a peenliar
combination of parts, as hereafter explained. And,
Fifthly, our Invention consists of so arranging twist-lace machines that four
or more warp threads, each independent of other warps threads, may be used
with each bobbin thread in making ornamental fabrics.
And in order that the various parts of our Invention may be most fully
understood, and readily carried into effect, we will proceed to describe the
means pursued by us.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS A.
In describing how the first part of our Invention is to be carried into
effect it will not be necessary to enter into a statement of the nature or
manner of working of the various descriptions of twist-lace machines, as the
same are well understood; it will be sufficient to point out by these Drawings

page_text: same here. The machinery is arranged for making what is called straight-
down net, and the carriages are of the Lever's kind, worked by means of catch
bars, the carriages being caused simply. to swing through and through the
warp, as is well understood; but we would at once state, that we do not
à confine ourselves to any particular arrangement of lace machinery when
carrying out this part of our Invention, the object of which is to act on
the warps of twist-lace machines, so as to open sheds therein for the passage
of shuttles with weft, in addition to such warp threads being worked with their
bobbin threads to produce twist fabrics conjoined to or in combination with the
portions of fabric produced by the warp threads and the weft thrown in by
shuttles. The modifications therefore necessarily to be made in twist-lace
machines will be those which are required for opening the sheds in the warp,
and for enabling the warp threads to work and twist and link with their bobbin
threads; and these modifications, in respect to the machinery shown by the
Drawings A, we will proceed to describe, and a workman having made himself
well acquainted with the working of the machinery shown, will readily adapt
the same to other arrangements of twist-lace machines, to which he may. wish,
as other arrangements of machines differ from the arrangement shewn prin-
cipally in the modes of causing the bobbin carriages to swing through and
through the warps. In making fabrics consisting of cloth work produced
by warp and shuttle weaving and twist-lace work, it is desirable to use
a large number of warp threads to each bobbin thread than has heretofore
been employed, in order that the cloth work produced by warp and shuttle
weaving may be as close as may be, and we prefer to use four or more warp
threads to each bobbin thread; and each such warp throad is to be inde-
pendent and capable of separate movement when making or opening a shed,
and be acted on by the pattern surface employed. And we prefer to use
Jacquard apparatus for acting on the warp threads, in order to govern their
action. a, a, are the two comb bars, and b, b, the front and back combs. c, c,
are the bobbin carriages. d, d, are the warp threads, which, in place of being
carried up through guides, pass through eyes e, e, such as are used in Jacquard
weaving. These eyes are made fast to cords f.f, to which lead weights 9, 9,
are attached, by which the cords f are kept straight. h, h, are two per-
forated plates, through which the cords fpass, and by which they are kept
correct and separate, the other ends of the cords passing up to the Jacquard
apparatus to be acted on by perforated cards, as is well understood in Jacquard
weaving; and in fact a warp thus arranged is very similar to those used in
Jacquard weaving with warp and shuttle, the principal difference being that
the warp in this machine is vertical in place of being horizontal, as is usual in

page_text: weaving with warp and weft with Jacquard apparatus. In the Drawings the
warp is shown to be opened into a shed, some of the warp threads being towards
the front of the machine and some towards the back of the machine, depending
on the pattern surface and the nature of the ornamental work to be produced.
And it should be stated that the bobbin threads of the machine, when weaving
with warp and shuttle by this description of machinery, become, and, in fact,
are, warp threads at those parts of the fabric which are being produced by
weft thrown across by shuttles. And it is a great peculiarity of this part of
our Invention that a shed may be opened in respect to the warp itself, and
also in respect to the warp and the bobbin threads. i, j, k, are three stump
point bars, which are carried by arms l, l, which are so arranged that they can
bring the points i and j together at their poiuts, so as to prevent the threads in
the spaces between those points springing away from their proper spaces
when the threads are passing from i to j, or from j to i, at the same time the
points can be caused to separate sufficiently to allow of the shuttle m passing
between them. And this opening and closing of the points i, j, at the
proper intervals is performed as follows:-The spindles l', which, by means of
the arms shown, carry the stump point bars, each have arms 1, 1, at cach
end of the machine. The arms le are connected by links 14 to one end of the
bell-crank levers 7, the other end of those levers being connected to the
rods ", which are also connected to the arms 1, there being sufficient room
allowed at those parts to allow of the bell-crank levers l', and also the arms ls,
describing a portion of a curve, as is well understood. The connecting rods 1º
are connected to levers l', which are actuated by cams 18 on the cam shaft.
The shuttle m is shown separately on a full-sized scale, as well as in its place
in the machine, by which a workman will readily understand the same. And
in order to sustain the shuttle in passing across the machine, we produce a
shuttle race or course n, by means of combs n, which are affixed to and carried
by the bars which carry the stump point bars i, j, k. At each end of the
shuttle race is formed a shuttle box to receive the shuttle, there being a spring
or swell o to prevent the shuttle rebounding after entering the boxes at either
end. The shuttle is thrown across by means of the pickers 2, which slide on
rods p¹; and 9, 9, are the rods which, by their cords q', q', give motion to the
pickers. And these rods are affixed on the axes r, r; and these axes are put
in motion by means of cams s, one at each end, which act on levers t, the
levers t being respectively connected to the axes r, by connecting rods t¹, which
are at their lower ends attached to the arms fixed on the axes r; and the
cams & are so fixed on the cam shaft that they come into action alternately,
thus driving the shuttle alternately from side to side. In working this

page_text: machine the points take up the work at every motion of the machine, and the
shuttle is thrown across at every motion of the machine. The stump point
bars i and j do not rack endwise, the stump point bar k.having a racking
motion given to it, according to the cut of wheel explained. In order that
the manner of working by this machine may be readily understood, we will
suppose that the machine was, for the time being, making simple bobbin net
with the whole of the threads, and that the shuttle was to be removed, by
which the machine would go through its movements without introducing any
weft. In this case the whole of the warp threads would be in the stump
point bars j and k alternately, there being as many warp threads in one space
of the points as there are warp threads to a bobbin thread, and, in fact, these
several warp threads would be worked by the stump points j and k, as if only
one thread were in each space of the pointsj; and each carriage or bobbin
thread would twist with several threads in place of one thread; and the twist-
ing or omitting to twist of any bobbin threads around their cluster of warp
threads will depend on whether the several threads are selected into the stump
points k, or left only in the stump points j, which will depend on the selection
made by the Jacquard or other pattern surface, and in this way plain straight-
down twist net or lace would be made, the warps in the pillars each consisting
of several threads, but worked as if only one thread, the bobbin threads twist-
ing in the ordinary manner.
And having now explained the working of the machinery without throwing
the shuttle, we will proceed to describe the working with the shuttle, and the
consequent throwing in of weft thread into the fabric as it is made. As the car-
riages go into the back combs, or into the front combs, the threads will be selected.
and a shed opened, such warp threads being drawn into the stump points i as
may be desired to produce weavings opposite particular parts or all across,
some of the warp threads opposite each such place being left in the stump
points j, so that the weft will pass between the warps, which are in the same
spaces between the stump points i and j. The order of opening the warp into
sheds depending on the taste of the workman, they, being independent, may
be acted on in any way which may be desired; and the bobbin threads which
work opposite the particular places across the machine where warp and shuttle
weaving is taking place, will, for the time being, become or work as warp
threads. And we would state that, when this part of our Invention is applied
to twist-lace machines, where the carriages are capable of independent action,
and are governed by pattern surfaces, in such cases the bobbin threads will not
necessarily be all on one side when the warp is divided into a shed, as in the
machine shown in the Drawing, for in such machines, the bobbin threads may

page_text: The weft
be divided into a shed in any order as well as the warp thread.
threads thrown across the fabric will only be shut into the fabric at those parts
where a shed is open, and the weft thread will require to, be cut where it
flushes over the surfaces of net or lace produced between the patterns of cloth-
work weavings. We have shown. the machine as suitable for making a wide
piece of fabric, but when breadths are desired, if only one shuttle be employed
crossing from side to side, then breadths will be made and, laced together in
the ordinary manner, or separate shuttles may be used for each breadth of
fabric, provided the breadths are wide enough apart to allow a shuttle passing
in and out of a space between each breadth, in which case the breadths would
not be laced together. But it will be evident that by using a series of the
circular shuttles in common use in the ordinary loom for making brocade
patterns, that breadths of lace with weft and warp work in pattern might be
produced without allowing the spaces between the breadths, as above named,
and the breadths may then be laced together or left separate.
We will now proceed to describe the second part of our Invention, which
relates to warp-lace machinery. The nature of warp-lace machinery being
well understood, it will not be necessary to enter into a particular description
thereof, as, in order to this part of our Invention being well understood, it will
only be necessary to enter into a description of the manner of modifying such
description of machinery, in order that the same may be made to work

page_text: bar d, which receives motion from a cam on the back shaft. e, e, are the lower
instruments, which move or beat up the weft, and also carry the work on to the
stems of the needles. These instruments are affixed to the barf, which receives
motion from cams on the back shaft in the following manner :-The barf has
arms affixed thereto, by which that bar is connected to arms f2 affixed to
the spindle bar f³, and f' is an arm affixed to the spindle bar f³, which by
means of the connecting rod f* is connected to the lever f* at the back of the
machinery, and the upper end of the lever by a truck constantly rests against
the cam f7 on the back shaft, by which the necessary up and down motion is
communicated to the instruments e; and in order to obtain the necessary
to-and-fro movements to the instruments e two connecting rods f³ are attached
to the barf and to the levers fo, one at each end of the machine, and the
upper ends of such levers f by trucks constantly press against cams f¹º fixed
on the back shaft. 9, g, are eyes through which the warp threads pass, and
these eyes are constantly drawn with a tendency downwards by.weighted cords,
in the manner of Jacquard weaving, as is well understood; and other cords
ascend from the eyes g to the Jacquard apparatus, which is the description of
pattern surfaces we prefer to be used in carrying out this part of our Invention;
but other pattern surfaces may be employed, and it is by such means that a
shed may be opened in the warp, as is shown, each warp thread being capable
of independent action, and consequently the order in which the warps are
opened into sheds will govern the effect produced by throwing weft thread
across. In opening a shed for the passage of the shuttle, we cause the space
between the upper and lower row of threads to be greater when the shuttle is
passing than when the threads are being lapped on to the needles, and with
this view we use the bar h, which is carried by what is technically called "the
machine." This bar supports the lower row of threads, and the bar is. so
worked that it will cause the space between such lower row of threads and
the upper row of threads to be contracted when the process of lapping the
threads on to the needles is taking place, so that the movements of "the
machine" for performing the lappings may not be more than is necessary for
the lappings, which would be the case if the threads were kept as open as
when throwing the shuttle through the shed. The bar h is affixed to arms h²
affixed on the axle h, and as "the machine" goes in to lap, the bar h rises and
presses up the under threads, and this is accomplished by means of a cam h³
on the back shaft acting on the lever h, which by a link he connects the lever
h to the arm h' affixed to the axis h³. "The machine" is carried by the
arms i, i, as shown, and "the machine" is moved and governed in its move-
ments by cams affixed on the back shaft, the lapping motions being produced

page_text: by the cams; acting on the levers 7', which by links are connected to the
arms, which are affixed to "the machine," and "the machine" is moved in
and out by means of cams & acting on the levers k¹, which by the connecting
rods are attached to "the machine," and by such means are the necessary
motions to be given to the parts; and a workman will readily adjust the
working of his machine by keeping in mind that when the shuttle is not
being thrown, the machine is to work in the same manner as an ordinary warp
frame. 1, 1, are arms affixed to "the machine," and to these arms the bar m
is fixed, which forms the shuttle race or course, there being a suitable shuttle
box at either end to receive and retain the shuttle, as shown, and the shuttle
is thrown across the machine by means of the levers n, one at each end of the
machine, which are acted on alternately by cams n¹, n', which move the levers
na distance (and then release them, the springs n³ bringing the levers back),
by which the cords n³ communicate motion to the pickers, and consequently to
the shuttle. o is a comb or sley bar, which is supported by the bar p affixed
to the arms. The comb or sley bar o receives the warp threads through it
and retain them correctly when lapping. This bar o is acted on and governed.
by a suitable lace wheel, such as is explained in these Drawings, and the effect
of the lapping of the threads on the needles will depend on the selection (by
the Jacquard machinery) of the threads into the top and bottom rows of
threads. At the upper part of the combs o is a rod, which prevents the
threads being raised out of the combs. The warp frame thus arranged works
as follows:-The shuttle is thrown across when "the machine" is out, the
Jacquard apparatus having previously opened a shed of the warp, and as
"the machine" comes in the selection of the warp threads for lapping (by the
Jacquard apparatus) takes place. The lower instruments e carry in the weft,
and move the work back on to the stems of the needles, the lappings take
place, "the machine" goes out, the presser descends, the upper instruments c
move the work over the beards of the needles, the presser bar rises, and the
instruments. c knock over the work. The weft thread will only be tied into
the work where it is desired to produce weavings of cloth work, and the
weft will flush over other parts and be afterwards cut off between pattern.
and pattern. We would remark in respect to this part of our Invention,
that although we have only shown the machinery as working with two.
threads to each needle, yet we do not confine ourselves thereto, as it
will be evident that less or more threads to each needle may be used when
working according to this part of our Invention, and a workman will readily
perceive that fabrics with longitudinal stripes of weaving may be produced,.
joined together with greater or less widths of lace, by having several warp

page_text: threads opposite each place where a woven cloth-work stripe is to be produced,
in which case the cloth-work stripe may be of ornamental weaving, depending
on the order in which the Jacquard apparatus acts on the threads. In making
these stripes the needles would be removed from the needle bar to the extent
of the width of the stripe, or additional threads may be used between any of the
needles and worked into the fabrics, without being lapped on to the needles,
such threads being buried in the pillars when making pillars, and are used to
improve the cloth work when opening sheds for the passage of shuttles.
We would state in respect to this part of our Invention that although we
have shown a particular arrangement of apparatus applied to a warp frame for
carrying the same into practice, we do not confine ourselves thereto so long
as apparatus is applied to a warp frame suitable for opening a shed in the warp,
and for throwing a shuttle through such shed, as herein described.
We will now describe the third part of our Invention, which has for its
object the production of piled fabrics in twist-lace machines. In carrying out
this part of our Invention the pile may be produced from the warp or from the
bobbin threads. It will therefore be desirable in explaining this part of our
Invention to describe means of making piled fabrics with the pile produced by
the warp and by the bobbin threads, and it will be found by the description
hereafter given, the pile may remain as terry weaving, or be cut and be similar

page_text: those threads to twist with their bobbin threads to make lace. The machinery
first shown is of the Lever's kind, that is Lever's carriages are used, and they
are worked by catch bars, but other machinery may be employed when
carrying out this part of our Invention. The carriages simply swing through
and through the warp, and the ordinary taking-up points take up the work.
Every motion of the machine d is a fixed stump point bar, so arranged with
respect to the stump point bar c that the threads from c may be caused to pass
from the spaces between the points c into the spaces between the points d,
without getting away from the proper spaces, and the warp threads which are
selected into the points d are those which are taken, for the time being to make
the pile or projecting loops on the fabric. We have not thought it necessary
to show any apparatus for working with the pattern surfaces used for
selecting the threads into the points b, c, d, they being well understood, and
form no part of our Invention. In making the loops or piled surfaces in
this machinery, we apply certain extra points or instruments working
somewhat in the manner of point bars; these instruments consist of the points
e, which are mounted in the manner of a point bar, and in such manner that
when the threads have been selected into the stump points d, as shown, they
will by the aid of the instruments f carry up such selected threads to where
the back points are retaining the work. The instruments f are hook formed,
as shown, and when they and the points e enter the selected warp threads, they
are over one another, that is, the instruments f are over the flat points e; but
when they have entered the threads the instruments f are to be caused to move
a short distance so as to shut the threads in between the. hooked portion of
an instrument f and the side of a point e, and in this manner they are to go
up under the back points which go out of the work, which will be better
understood when we have hereafter described a course of working. When
the extra points and instruments e, f, are to go out, the instruments f are to be
slided back so as to come correctly over their points e, by which motion the
instruments will leave the loops. This is supposing that no cutting of the loops
is to take place; but the machinery is shown suitable for making cut pile, and
therefore cutters g are applied, which are affixed to the bar h, which is carried
by and capable of sliding on the extra point bar, the bar h being controlled in
its sliding movements by means of slots cut through it, through which screws
pass into the extra point bar, and the slots are so arranged that on the bar h
being forced endwise, it will also move towards the points of the instruments
6, f, and thus come in contact with the thread held by them, by which the
loops will be cut; it will therefore be understood that when cut piled fabrics are
to be made, the bar h is to be forced endwise just before the extra points e are

page_text: required to leave the work, and then the motion of the bar e above described
is to take place, and then the points e and instruments f are to descend in
order to be in-a position to take up fresh quantities of the warps. Supposing
the carriages to be in the middle, and the points e just entered into the selected
warp threads, the following will be a course of working. The carriages will
move into the front combs, the front main points and the extra points e, f,
going up as before described, the back points going out as the others come up.
The carriages will go into the middle, the back points will dip into the threads,
and as the carriages go into the back combs the back points will go up, and the
front main points will come out. The carriages will move into the middle, the
front points will dip, the carriages come into the front combs, the front points
ascending to take the work, the back points going out. The carriages will go
into the middle, the back points will dip, and the carriages will go into the
back combs, the back points-will go up, and the front main points, and also
the extra points e. f, will go out; the carriages will go into the middle, and the
front points, and also the extra points e, f, will dip into the threads, a selection
of warp threads into the points d having previously taken place. It should
be stated that as the extra points e, f, only come into action every fourth
motion, they will require to be acted on by cams on a shaft having one revolu-
tion for four motions of the machine. In some cases it is desirable to make
the pile of uneven lengths, in which case, in place of using the instruments e
and f, we employ instruments such, as are shown at e¹ and f¹, each with a
series of notches on one side, and it will depend on which of the notches
come into use at any moment what length of loop will be produced; in this case
the movements above described in respect to e and fare to take place in respect
to e, f, and it will depend on the selection of the warp threads into the stump
points d how long the various loops are to be; and in place of simply selecting
the warp threads into the points d, as in the former case, in this instance the
apparatus and pattern surface are to select the warp threads into the points d
to a greater or less distance, according as it is desired to make longer or
shorter loops; the greater distance the warp threads are carried into the
points d, the greater distance will the notches in e, f, which take the threads
be from their points, and therefore the greater length will be the loops pro-
duced. We prefer that the looped or pile portions of the fabrics should in
all cases be produced on cloth-work surface, and in order that the fabric
should be close, we, in all cases when making piled fabrics in twist-lace
machinery, prefer to use several warp threads to each bobbin thread. In
some cases it is desirable to make two pieces of piled fabric at one time in
the same machine, and we have therefore shown so much of a double tier

page_text: fluted roller twist-lace machine as will enable us to describe this, the third part
of our Invention, carried out in this manner; but other twist-lace machines
may be employed. In this case there will be two sets of warp threads, one
for each piece of fabric, and the warp threads of one fabric are to be so
shogged or racked for the passage of the carriages of the other piece of fabric
that the bobbin threads of the carriages of one fabric will not twist or link
with the warp threads of the other piece of fabric.
And we would here state that we make no claim to the making two fabrics
at one time in a twist-lace machine, that having been done before, the only
novelty in this machinery being the so arranging and working such machinery
that the third part of our Invention (that of making piled fabrics in twist-lace
machines) may be accomplished in a twofold manner.
The manner of working fluted roller double tier machines being well
understood, it will not be necessary to enter into a description thereof.
We, as before stated, use several warp threads to each bobbin thread.. The
warp threads used as the piled threads cause pile to be produced on both
fabrics by alternately being drawn from working in one fabric in. order
that they may for a time work in the other fabric, and as the two fabrics
are made at a distance apart, they will, till they are cut apart, be held
by the warp threads, which cross from fabric to fabric. In this machine
there are shewn to be two sets of guide bars, three to a set; but more may
be used, one set to each piece of fabric; and they are operated on by their
cuts of wheels, as shown; and the two inner guide bars carry the pile warp
threads. The cuts of wheels shew that the fabrics are to be produced by the
traversing of the carriages from selvage to selvage; but this may be varied.
a, a, are two bars, which guage the distance the two fabrics shall be apart,
and the length of pile will depend on their distance apart. Note. We
would state that in this and all other parts of our Invention where the warp
threads are used up unequally, they are to be placed on separate beams or
bobbins, as is well understood; and when making plain fabrics, we prefer that
the pile warp beams should be relieved from weight to give off with less
strain on the bobbin threads. In order to separate the two fabrics, we apply
a knife bar c, c, between the two work rollers b, b, and this knife bar is to be
kept constantly moving quickly to and fro, so that as the two fabrics are made
they will be separated, or other arrangements of cutters may be used.
We will now proceed to explain how this, the third part of our Invention,
may be carried out when making the pile from the bobbin threads. These
Drawings shew so much of a double tier fluted roller machine as will enable
us to explain how this, the third part of our Invention, may be carried out

page_text: when using the bobbin threads to make the pile. The apparatus shewn
applied to this machine is suitable for making pile composed of varying
length of loops, and therefore each instrument on which the loop is formed is
capable of independent movement, by which a greater or lesser width of its
blade can be brought into action to make a greater or less length of loops;
but in cases where the whole of the loops are to be of the same size, then a
bar having similar instruments, all fixed, may be employed in place of the
independent instruments shewn in the machine. a, a, are a series of angular
blades, capable of being lowered to a greater or less extent, depending on the
size of loop each is intended to make, and the pattern surface and apparatus
used therewith is to be so arranged that these instruments may be selected and
lowered to any desired extent. And such of these instruments as arc at any
time to be brought into action are to be selected and lowered to the desired
extent at the period of every other time of the carriages coming into the front
combs, and the front points, when they have dipt into the threads, so as to
take the bobbin threads, are to shog, so as to carry the bobbin threads across
the selected instruments a, and they are then to go up, by which the bobbin
threads in sliding up the incline edges of the instruments a will be drawn off
their bobbins, and will produce greater or lesser loops, according as the
instruments a are lowered more or less. And the instruments a go up with
the points when the taking-up points come up to the position where the
threads are across the instruments, and the instruments a are not to go out of
the loops till the carriages go into the middle in their movement previous to
the instruments a being again required to be selected, which is at the time
the carriages go into the front combs.
We will now proceed to explain the nature of the fourth part of our
Invention, and the manner in which the same is to be performed; and in order
that this part of our Invention may be most fully understood, we have by
Drawings shewn warp machinery arranged according to this part of our
The nature of each view shewn by these Drawings being written thereon
it will not be necessary to repeat the same here, and it will only be desirable
to call attention to the particular mode of working and the nature of the parts
necessary to carry out this part of our Invention. The object of this part of
the Invention is to produce pile fabrics in pattern in warp-lace machinery in a
novel manner; and we would state in respect to this part of our Invention,
that we do not claim generally the right of making piled fabrics in warp

page_text: I
machines, whether in pattern or otherwise, unless the same is accomplished by
the combination of means herein described. a is the needle bar; bis the
presser bar; c, c, are the warp threads, which are acted on by Jacquard or
other suitable pattern surfaces acting on the cords d, d. In this machine
there is a guide bar (the threads of which are not individually acted on) in
addition to the other warp threads c, c, which are capable of separate and
independent movement, all which is similar to what has been before done
in warp-lace machines, and therefore are not claimed.. The peculiarity of this
part of our Invention consists. in combining the use of the instruments e, f,
and g, with such an arrangement for actuating some of the warp threads
independently that piled fabrics may be produced in pattern in warp machines.
The instruments e and fperform the duty of the ordinary sinkers, and the
hooks take such of the warp threads as are selected into the position shown
by the red lines in order to draw. them into loops, and the instruments f, in
addition to acting as parts of sinkers, also receive the loop from the hooks and
retain them for a time, as hereafter explained. The machine is arranged for
making two laps to one press, the first lap being for producing the pile, and
the second for producing the fabric. The instruments, e are affixed to the
bar e', which is fixed to the arms e, and the arms are attached to the arms e³,
which are affixed' to the axis e, which receives motion from its cam e, as is
clearly shown in these Drawings, and it performs the office of forcing the
work back on to the stems of the needles. The instruments are fixed to
the bar f, which is fixed to the arms f, which are attached to the arms f³,
which are affixed to the axis f', and this axis receives motion from its cam f³,
as is clearly shown in these Drawings; and the duty of these instruments f
is to receive the loops from the hooks, to retain them thereon for a time, and
then to knock the work over the needles, a separate Drawing being given
showing the various parts in the different positions they assume in performing
their various operations. In working the warp threads on the needles a
workman will readily understand therefrom how to adjust his machine.to
cause the parts e, f, g, to work correctly. The selected threads being lapped
over two needles, the hooks descend and take the loops thereby produced and
carry them over the points of the instruments f, and then the hooks withdraw.
The hooks g are affixed to the bar g', which bar is fixed to one end of the
levers g², the axis of such levers being suspended from above, as shown; the
levers 92 and by links g, attached to the levers 9', which are acted on by
the cams g, and by such means the motions above mentioned are communi-.
cated to the hooks. The machinery is shown to be working with three
threads to a needle, two of which threads to each needle are capable of

page_text: separate movement from each other by the pattern surface used, and the third
thread is carried by the guide bar z, which carries as many guides as there are
needles, and it is worked by its cut of wheels, and the other two threads are
carried by a comb or sley bar c', which is worked by its cut of wheels, as
explained in the Drawings.
We will now describe the fifth part of our Invention, which consists of so
arranging twist-lace machines that four or more warp threads to each bobbin
thread may be used, each warp thread being independent of all other of the
warp threads, by which very ornamental fabrics of twist lace, combined with
cloth-work weavings, may be produced. In carrying out this part of our
Invention we prefer to use single-tier machinery, but other machinery may be
employed, and the bobbin threads do not traverse from selvage to selvage.
The arrangement of machinery shown is for employing five warp threads to
cach bobbin thread, but one may be omitted or more than five used.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWING E.
This Drawing shows so much of a twist-lace machine and instructions for
cuts of wheels therefor as will enable us to describe this part of our Invention.
In this machine there are five sets of stump bars, a and b, c and d, e and f,
g and h, i and j, and the warp threads placed in each set are capable of being
selected by Jacquard or other suitable pattern surface into either of their
stump guide bars, and according as they are selected into one or other of them,
so will be the effect produced. The stump bars are each capable of being
racked separately, and the stump point bars have each as many spaces as
there are bobbin carriages, and one warp thread for each carriage is to bo
placed in a space of each of the sets cd, ef, and 9 h, and two warp threads
are to be placed in the alternate space of each of the sets a b, and i j, when
flushed work is to be produced, and only one when for tabby weaving. The
warp threads.
carriages simply swing through and through the
g
The stump point bars a, c, e, g, i, are regularly shogged by their wheels, as
will be understood by the cuts of wheels set forth for this machinery, and the
stump guide bars b, d, f, h, and j, are generally kept from racking. The warp
threads pass through eyes which are acted upon by weights to keep them
tight, and the eyes by cords are to be acted on by Jacquard or other suitable
.pattern surface, so as to bring the warp threads respectively to be influenced
5 by their moveable stumps, or by the stationary stumps, and according to these
varying circumstances so will be the effect produced. Thus, supposing all the
threads for any length of time were continually acted on by their moveable

page_text: stumps a, c, e, g, i, the effect would be a close weaving, and then supposing it
be desired to produce pillars, if the two outer threads, that is to say, the threads
in the stump points a, b, and i, j, be alternately selected into a and i, b and j,
respectively, the other remaining acted on by their racking stump points
c, e, g, the whole would be made into woven pillars, and if it be desired that
any of the threads in c, d, e, f, g, h, should be producing flushings for any
length of time when making cloth work, then those threads or any of them
would be constantly selected into their stationary stump bar. A workman
will therefore arrange his patterns for making cloth work, lace work, or
flushed weavings, in pattern.according to his taste.
Having thus described the nature of our Invention, we would have it under-
stood that we do not make any claim to any of the mechanical parts separately,
and in respect to each part of the Invention, the mechanical details may be
varied so long as the pecular character of either part of our Invention be
retained. But what we claim is,-
First, the so arranging bobbin-net or twist-lace machinery that the warp
threads used therein may be opened into what are called sheds, and allow of
shuttles being passed through the warps, so as to allow of ordinary weavings
with warp and shuttle being produced in addition to and in combination with
twist-lace fabrics in such descriptions of machines.
Secondly, we claim the so arranging warp-lace machinery that. a shed may
from time to time be opened between the warp threads and a shuttle carrying
weft be passed through.
Thirdly, we claim the manufacturing of piled fabrics. (in the character of
terry and cut velvet) in twist-lace machines.
Fourthly, we claim the mode of combining the parts e, f, and g, and so
working warp-lace frames therewith, that piled fabrics may be produced therein
in pattern as herein described.
And, fifthly, we claim the so arranging twist-lace machinery that four or
more warp threads, each-independent of all other warp threads, may be worked
with each bobbin thread into. ornamental fabrics.
In witness whereof, we, the said William Clarke and William Vickers
:the younger, have hereunto set our hands and seals, this "Seventeenth
day of July, in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and
forty-six

page_text: AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the Seventeenth day of July, in the
year of our Lord 1846, the aforesaid William Clarke and William Vickers
came before our said Lady the Queen in Her Chancery, and acknowledged
the Specification aforesaid, and all and every thing therein contained and
specified, in form above written. And also the Specification aforesaid
was stamped according to the tenor of the Statute made for that purpose.".