Improvements in Machinery employed for Joining Together Hosiery and the like Fabrics.
Year: 1898

page_text: Date of Application, 3rd Aug., 1898-Accepted, 1st Oct., 1898
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Machinery employed for Joining Together Hosiery
and the like Fabrics.
I, JULIUS KOHLER, of Limbach, Saxony, Germany, Sewing Machine Maker, do
hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:-
My said invention relates to an improved construction of horizontal needle seam-
ing machine for joining together hoisery and the like fabrics by which I obtain
nearly four times the working speed as compared with machines as hitherto con-
structed.
This greater speed amounting to about three thousand revolutions or stitches
per minute is attained partly by forming the loops by means of a looper and a
hook and partly by the exclusive use of circular excentrics for actuating the
operative parts.
In the following description reference is made to the accompanying drawings
in which
Fig. 1 is a side elevation,
Fig. 2 a plan.
Fig. 3 a longitudinal elevation (partly in section) of the means for feeding the
fabric with a variable size of stitch.
Fig. 4 a plan view of the parts shown in Fig. 3 as seen from underneath.
Fig. 5 a longitudinal elevation (partly in section) of the means for feeding the
fabric with a fixed size of stitch.
Fig. 6 shows the stitch.
Figs. 7, 8, 9, and 10 illustrate the successive stages in the formation of the
stitch.
In all the figures the same letters of reference indicate the same parts.
Referring first to the formation of the stitch and supposing the horizontally
working needle to have penetrated the fabric w (Fig. 7). and to have retreatedl
sufficiently far to form a loop a hook c seizing the loop moves over the needle
and while the latter continues to retreat the hook c (Fig. 9) passes over the edge
of the fabric to while the fabric is fed the space of a stitch length. During this
operation the looper d (Figs. 7 and 9) has moved downwards and entered the loop
held by the hook c. The looper d contains the second thread which comes out
at the rear side close to the lower end of the looper.
The hook (Fig. 8) after having delivered the loop to the looper d swings
backwards and retreats into its first position thus leaving the loop .
The looper d (Fig. 8) has meanwhile descended so far that the re-advancing
needle passes between the looper d and its thread so that the now rising looper d
(Fig. 10) forms about the needle a loop y (from the looper thread) which is meshed
with the loop of the needle thread.
The drawing of the two loops is effected by special thread levers the needle mean-
го

page_text: while having again taken the position shown in Fig. 7 while the hook c stands
ready to seize the needle loop and so on.
It will be seen from the foregoing that the hook and the looper & share in the
formation of the loops. Each of them has a simple operation to perform and
consequently the working speed, as compared with the former employment of a
single loop holder can be considerably increased.
The general arrangement of the machine and the driving mechanism is as
follows.
The needle bar f (Fig. 1), receives a reciprocating motion by means of a circular
excentric an excentric rod f³ a lever f and a hinge block or crosshead f¹ from
the main shaft.
The hook c (Figs. 1 and 2) has, as would be seen from the description of the
formation of the loop, a twofold motion. The swinging or partial rotary motion is.
imparted to the shaft c¹ by a circular excentric the excentric rod c (Fig. 1) of which
is connected to a side lever c³ (Fig. 1) by means of a hinge block c³. The longitudinal
reciprocating motion is imparted to the shaft c¹ by a circular excentric the rod c
(Fig. 2) of which is connected at the back of the machine to the lever c' (Fig. 1).
The latter carries in a hinge block 6 (Fig. 2) a bush 5 working between two
steel rings or collars e¹ e on the shaft c¹.
The looper d (Fig. 1) has only aswinging motion which is imparted to its arm d
(Fig. 1) by an excentric and the excentric rod d².
The threads pass through the eyes of the two thread levers g' g² (Figs. 1 and 2)
which together oscillate about the stud (Fig. 1) deriving their motion by means
of a lever and an excentric rod g from a circular excentric.
Mechanism for producing the intermittent rotation of the feed rolls a and b
is positive. In one form (Figs. 3 and 4) the length of the stitch may be varied.
In another form the length of the stitch is fixed.
On the vertical shaft 62 (Fig. 3) is a worm wheel driven by a worm Я which
derives a continuous rotation from the main shaft k. By means of the worm
wheels m m the shaft and the worm wheels n' n² (Fig. 4) the worm wheel q
rotates at the same speed as the main shaft k.
The worm q is capable of displacement in a longitudinal direction on its shaft
by means of a lever (having its fulcrum on a stud i) which is connected by
an excentric rod h¹ and an excentric h with the vertical shaft p.
The intermittent rotation of the worm wheel r (Figs. 3 and 4) is produced in
the following manner.
If the worm q is simply rotated but not displaced longitudinally then half a
rotation of the main shaft k will produce a rotation of the worm wheel r to the
extent of half a tooth in the direction of the arrow it¹. If however at the same time
the worm is slid the distance of half a tooth in the direction of the arrow y the
action of the worm on the worm wheel r is neutralised and the worm wheel
remains stationary. During this arrest of the motion of the worm wheel the
needle is caused to penetrate the fabric.
At the next half turn of the main shaft k the worm q again drives the worm
wheel the distance of half a tooth in the direction of the arrow el but now the
worni q is at the same time slid by its lever and excentric the distance of half a
tooth in the same direction ¹. These two motions in the direction being now
additive their combined effect drives the worm wheel r the distance of a whole tooth.
In the form shown in Fig. 5 the worm wheel r is fixed to the shaft 63 and con-
sequently the length of the stitch depends entirely on the number of teeth in the
worm wheel r. То vary the length of stitch the worm wheel and if necessary also
the worm must be changed.
In the form shown in Figs. 3 and 4 the length of stitch may be varied without
changing the worm wheel. In this case the face of the worm wheel which is
loose on the shaft is formed with a number of concentric rings
teeth of the same pitch.
having

page_text: pinion t (Fig. 4) gears in one of the toothed rings. The pinion t is secured to
a shaft s which is capable of longitudinal displacement by means of a lever or
setting rods extending outwards for the purpose of bringing the pinion t into
gear with any one of the toothed rings.
One end of the sliding shaft s is formed square or flatsided and takes into a
corresponding recess in the shaft (which does not slide) which carries a bevel
pinion u gearing with the bevel wheel u'. The latter wheel is secured to the
shaft of the feed roll b.
1 the angle of
would be at its
would be at a
If now the pinion t were in gear with the outer toothed ring
rotation of the pinion t for each advance of the worm wheel
greatest and consequently the angle of rotation of the feed roll
maximum. Conversely if the pinion t were in gear with one or other of the inner
toothed rings the length of stitch would be correspondingly less.
The intermittent rotation of the feed roll is transmitted through the gearing
wheels a to the other or front feed roll, a.
By the construction and arrangement of parts herein before described all the
motions are of a positive nature obtained by circular excentrics and tooth gearing.
There is thus no dependence on springs or their resilient action and as a con-
sequence a higher speed and a quieter and steadier action is attainable.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is:
1. A seaming machine with horizontal needles in which the loops are formed
and meshed together by means of a hook c and a thread carrying looper & sub-
stantially as set forth and shown.
2. In a seaming machine such as described the use combination and arrange-
ment of circular excentrics for positively operating the needle bar f the hook c
the looper d and the thread levers g g substantially as set forth and shown.
3. In a seaming machine the combination and arrangement with one of the
feed rolls of the worm wheel r and the longitudinally sliding worm q for the pur-
pose of imparting a positive intermittent rotation to the feed rolls substantially as
set forth and shown."
4. The combination and arrangement with one of the feed rolls of a seaming
machine of the longitudinally displaceable rotating worm, the worm wheel
having on its face concentric rings of teeth of equal pitch, the longitudinally
adjustable pinion adapted to gear with one or other of the said rings of teeth
and the bevel wheels u u² for the purpose of imparting a variable intermittent
rotation to the feed rolls and thereby altering the length of stitch substantially
as set forth and shown.
Dated this 2nd low of August 1808
E. T. WHITELOW, A.M. Inst. C.E.,
70, Deansgate, Manchester, Agent for the Applicant.