Improvements in the Manufacture of Ornamental Woven Fabrics.
Year: 1894

page_text: Date of Application, 10th Apr., 1894
Complete Specification Left, 9th Jan., 1895-Accepted, 9th Feb., 1895
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Ornamental Woven Fabrics.
I JOSEPH HARGREAVES of Peel Bridge Mill Ramsbottom in the County of
Lancaster, Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as
follows:-
This invention relates to improvements in weaving by power loom whereby I
am enabled to obtain figured effects hitherto unknown and not to be obtained by
the ordinary known methods of weaving.
The invention consists in stitching wadding warp ends by suitable stitching or
figuring warp ends upon a fabric whilst being woven, by means of needles in frames
such as are used in lappet weaving the said wadding ends being either stitched in
by the weft at intervals or not so stitched in according to the designs required to
be produced.
In carrying my invention into practice I employ frames carrying needles and
actuated by cams or wheels as is usual in lappet weaving or by other means, and 1
pass the stitching ends through the needles of a frame or frames distinct from
those carrying the wadding ends and I so actuate the stitching ends that they will
be stitched in by the weft on either side of the respective wadding ends thereby
fastening the latter upon the fabric and forming raised lines of a design regulated
by the lappet wheel or other equivalent.
By causing the two frames to take a similar direction and not stitching the
wadding ends by the weft, but binding the stitching ends by the weft on either side
of the wadding ends alternately, a raised cord or line curved or zigzagged as desired
can be produced. Also by stitching the wadding ends at intervals into the fabric
other and very varied effects can be produced.
It will be evident that these improvements are applicable to various kinds of
figured or other woven fabrics as well as to plain fabrics and that a variety of
effects can be obtained by using different colors in the wadding and stitching ends
and ground fabric.
Dated this 9th day of April 1894.
GEO. DAVIES & SON,
4, St. Ann's Square, Manchester, Agents for the Applicant.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Ornamental Woven Fabrics.
I JOSEPH HARGREAVES of Peel Bridge Mill Ramsbottom in the County of
Lancaster, Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in
what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement :-
.
This invention relates to improvements in weaving by power loom whereby I am
enabled to obtain figured effects hitherto unknown and not to be obtained by the
ordinary known methods of weaving.

page_text: The invention consists in stitching wadding warp ends by suitable stitching or
figuring warp ends upon a fabric whilst being woven by means of needles in frames
such as are used in lappet weaving, the said wadding ends being either stitched in
by the weft at intervals or not so stitched in according to the design required to
be produced.
In carrying my invention into practice I employ frames carrying needles and
actuated by cams or wheels as is usual in lappet weaving, or by other means, and I
pass the stitching ends through the needles of a fraine or frames distinct from
those carrying the wadding ends and I so actuate the stitching ends that they will
be stitched in by the weft on either side of the respective wadding ends, thereby
fastening the latter upon the fabric and forming raised lines of a design regulated
by the lappet wheel or other equivalent.
By causing the two frames to take a similar direction and not stitching the
wadding ends by the weft, a raised line or cord curved or zigzagged as desired can
be produced, but by zigzagging the wadding ends and stitching them at intervals
into the fabric other and very varied effects can be produced.
The stitching ends may form a complete cover for. the wadding ends or may
only stitch over the said wadding ends at intervals.
The stitching of the wadding warp upon the fabric by the stitching warp may
also be effected in several ways; for example, the wadding ends may be caused to
move from side to side as the stitching ends rise and fall, with or without slight
sideways motion, to be stitched or woven in by the weft; or the wadding ends.
may be held steady and the stitching ends have a to and fro and rising and falling
motion imparted to them, so that they may be carried first to one side thereof and
then to the other side to be stitched or woven in by the weft.
It will be evident that these improvements are applicable to various kinds of
figured or other woven fabrics as well as to plain fabrics, and that a variety of
effects can be obtained by using different colors in the wadding and stitching ends
and ground fabric.
My invention will be readily understood on reference to the accompanying sheet
of drawings of which Fig. 1 is a front view, Fig. 2 a vertical section, and Fig. 3 a
plan view of so much of a loom, lappet frame, and its adjuncts as are necessary to
illustrate one way of stitching the wadding warp upon the fabric. Diagrams A, B, C
and D illustrate various effects which can be produced by my invention. The
diagrams A, B, C¹, illustrate various methods of stitching the wadding ends upon
the fabric by means of the stitching ends.
On Figs. 1, 2 and 3 a at represents the frame carrying the needles a¹ through
which the wadding warp ends w are passed, b6+ the frame carrying the needles b¹
through which the stitching warp ends are passed, the needles being set lower
than the needles a', as seen at Figs. 1 and 2, so that the stitching ends will pass
the wadding ends. The drawings shew a loom arranged to make zigzag cords
upon the fabric, as shewn by the diagram A and the plan (Fig. 3) of the fabric c.
The lappet wheel d moves the frame directly by the grooved and the finger ª
on the said frame b, and the frame b carries the frame a with it by means of the
stops bb, the finger a acting against the stops b³ on the frame b, the said stops
being adjustable as shewn; or other equivalent means of connecting the frame a
to the frame b may be employed. The to and fro motion of the frame a is or may
be obtained by the levers e e¹ and cams ff acting upon straps g g which are
passed round the pulleys h h on the said levers e el and pulleys i i¹ carried by the
lathe. Where it is necessary for some effects to give a slight to and fro motion to
the frame b by means of the frame a, the groove d' (or part or parts thereof) must
be made wider to admit of such.motion.
The space between the stops and enable the wadding ends to to be carried
well out of the way of the stitching ends s which are raised to be stitched by the
weft in a single line, or nearly so, along the fabric, according as the frame b is not,
or is, moved by the frame a, so that the cord will stand out the better upon the
fabric as shewn by the diagrams A' B¹ respectively. The needles & are raised by

page_text: the part 6+ of the frame bb+ which is actuated by a lifting rod k in the usual
manner. The part at of the frame a at can be raised by a separate lifting rod
when it is desired to stitch in the wadding ends by the weft.
The diagram A shews a zigzag line formed by entirely covering the wadding
end or ends by the stitching ends, the diagram B shews a similar line formed by
covering the wadding ends w by a stitching end or ends at intervals. It will be
evident that by altering the groove d¹ of the lappet wheel d waved curved or
other lines or effects can be produced.
The diagrams C and D shew effects produced by zigzagging the wadding end w
and stitching it to the fabric at intervals at the points on both sides, or on one
side, of a straight line or lines of stitching (by the weft) of the stitching end s.
Diagram Ashews how the stitching is effected when the wadding end is moved
from side to side and the stitching needles are merely raised and lowered.
Diagram B' shews how the stitching is effected when the wadding end is moved
from side to side and the stitching end has a slight movement sideways as well as
being raised and lowered.
Diagram C shews how the stitching is effected when the movement of the
stitching end alone makes the stitch.
It will be evident that straight lines or cords can be formed upon the fabric
without the use of the lappet wheel d and the finger b³.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is :-
Stitching wadding warp ends by suitable stitching or figuring warp ends upon a
fabric whilst being woven, the said wadding ends being either stitched in by the
weft at intervals, or not so stitched in, substantially as hereinbefore described and
illustrated by the annexed drawings.
Dated this 8th day of January 1895.
GEO. DAVIES & SON,
4, St. Ann's Square, Manchester, Agents for the Applicant.