IMPROVEMENTS IN MECHANISM FOR SEWING BUTTON HOLES
Year: 1884

page_text: "
I HENRY HARRIS LAKE, of the firm of Haseltine, Lake, and Co Patent Agents,
Southampton Buildings in the County of Middlesex do hereby declare the nature
of my Invention for IMPROVEMENTS IN MECHANISM FOR SEWING BUTTON
HOLES" and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
This Invention relates to that class of button-hole sewing machines wherein the
needle-bar has simply a vertical movement, and the cloth or other material
containing the button-hole to be worked or stitched has imparted to it a right line
movement in two directions, to enable the needle, to penetrate the material back
from the edge of the button-hole and then to descend at the edge of the button-
hole and vice versa, thus over-stitching the material properly for the production of
a finished button-hole.
In the Invention to be herein described the clamp which holds the cloth or
material is moved parallel with the length of the button-hole by means of a feeding
cam provided with an approximately heart-shaped cam, and at the same time the
said clamp is moved longitudinally on the bed-plate of the machine by a lever
actuated by a switch-cam; one side of the button-hole having been stitched, the
longitudinal movements of the clamp produced by the lever and switch-cam are
reversed, although the same start froin, and end at, different points, to thus enable
the needle to stitch the opposite side or edge of the button hole, while the feeding
cam causes the clamp to be moved transversely of the bed-plate..
When stitching at the ends of the button-hole the clamp is so moved as to bar
the said ends as will be described.
The machine is provided with a vertically movable bar provided with a button-
hole cutter or blade to cut the material held by the clamp, either before or after
the stitching for the button-hole has been completed, the said cutter bar occupying
the position occupied by the usual presser bar which has been omitted from the
machine herein described, the cutter bar being partially rotated as it descends upon
the material held by the clamp.
The machine is also provided with a cord-guide which is automatically reversed
when the movement of the clamp is reversed to work the second side of the

page_text: button-hole, so as to always present the cord guido in correct position with rolation
to the needle and the moving clamp.
"
The mechanism instrumental in moving the clamp and the material held by it
under the needle is shown as embodied with the well known "Wheeler and Wilson'
type of sewing machine so need not be herein fully described as to the operation
of its stitch-forming devices, and it will be understood that with slight modifications
the clamp and its actuating devices may be applied to other classes of sewing
machines.
The present Invention comprises a slide-frame placed in guides on the bed-plate,
an over-stitch regulating lover connected with, and reciprocating, the said slide-
frame in a direction at right angles to the length of the button-hole, a clamp or
holder for moving the material, and a cross-slide fixed to the said clamp, combined
with a rotating heart-shaped cam and intermediate mechanism to move the said
cross-slide fixed to the clamp in the direction of the length of the button hole, and
with a peripheral cam and spring to effect a change of position of the cloth clamp
or holder and its attached cross-slide upon the said slide frame when it is desired
to stitch from one side of the button-hole across its end and along the opposite
side of the button-hole, substantially as hereinafter described.
1
It also comprisos a clamp or holder to move the cloth or material to be stitched,
an attached under cross-slide, an under slide-frame and an upper cross-slide, and a
cam to reciprocate the latter, combined with an intermediate ring and ring-slide,
or their equivalents, whereby the movement of the clamp by the said cam in the
direction of the length of the button-hole may be varied to correspond with the
length of the button-hole to be stitched or worked.
It also comprises a rotating feed-wheel and an attached feeding cam having the
same centre of rotation, a cross-slide actuated by the said cam, and a cloth-holding
clamp in operative connection therewith and made movable in the direction of the
button-hole through the said cam and cross-slide, combined with a slide made
movable on the bed-plate at right angles to the length of the button-hole slit, and
with a stud acted upon by the said feeding cam, which latter is pressed toward the
stud by a spring, the said cam, during a part of its rotation automatically effecting
a change in the position of the clamp with relation to the slide which moves it at
right angles to the length of the button-hole, whereby the needle is enabled to
penetrate the material along first one and then the other side of the button-hole,
substantially as hereinafter described.
It also comprises the combination with a cloth clamp in a button-hole sewing
machine, of a cross-slide connected with the clamp, a feeding cam, a cross-slide
actuated by it and made movable in the direction of the length of the button-hole,
and an intermediate adjustable ring slide whereby the movement in the direction
of the length of the button-hole of the cross-slido attached to the clamp, may be
made less than the movement of the upper cross-slide actuated by the said cam,
thus enabling the said mechanisin to move the cloth clamp for a greater or less
distance in the length of the button-hole to accomodate for button-holes of different
lengths.
It also comprises a clamp or holder for moving the material, an attached under
cross-slide, a reciprocating under slide-frame provided with a stud and spare-screw,
an upper cross-slide, an upper slide-frame, and a spring or springs to move the
upper slide-frame on the under-slide-frame, combined with a cam having a groove
to move the upper cross-slide, and a peripheral cam having a circular portion and
inclines to control the movement of the upper slide-frame on the under slide-frame
during a part of the rotation of the said cam, to enable the clamp to be properly
moved to bar the ends of the button-hole.
It also comprises a bed plate an under slide-frame, an upper slide-frame,
intermediate cross-slides, a connected cloth clamp or holder, a cam to operate the
same to move the clamp or holder backward and forward parallel with the centre
of the button-hole to be worked, and a feeding wheel, combined with a rotating

page_text: shaft, a switch cam thereon, a two-armed over-stitch regulating lever moved by it,
the link to connect the said lever with the under slide frame, and the adjustable
pawl for actuating the feed-wheel and cam.
It also comprises an under slide-frame having an uniform reciprocating movement
to regulate the length of the stitch from the inner edge of the button-hole slit
outward, an upper slide-frame and a cloth clamp reciprocated with it at right
angles to the button-hole slit, combined with a spring or springs and a cam and
stud to change the positions of the upper slide-frame and cloth clamp or holder on
and with relation to the under slide-frame as the latter is being reciprocated,
thereby enabling the needle of the stitching mechanism to penetrate the material
held by the cloth clamp along one side of the centre of the button-hole and about
its ends to bar the same, and then along the other side of the said hole.
It also comprises an under slide-frame, a cloth clamp or holder moved with it as
described, an over stitch regulating lever, and means between it and the slide-
frame to move the latter, and the grooved follower connected with the said lever,
combined with a switch cam provided with tracks embraced by the said follower,
the said cam having a double pointed frog located at the switch point, and
operating substantially as hereinafter described.
It also comprises a rotating shaft and an attached switch-cam provided with two
tracks and a double pointed frog, combined with a lever provided with a follower
grooved to straddle and pass from one to the other of the said tracks.
It also comprises an under member or plate of a cloth clamp, combined with an
upper forked jaw or plate pivotted to rise and fall with relation to the under
member or plate, and provided with an attached spring plate and hollow foot
pivotted thereon, and operating substantially as hereinafter described.
It also comprises an over-stitch regulating lever, a pawl carried by it, a heart
cam, an attached feed-wheel, and a cloth clamp actuated in one direction by the
said cam, combined with a pawl-lifter to disengage the pawl from the feed-wheel
and permit it, and the cam, to be rotated by hand.
It also comprises a stitch-forming mechanism and reciprocating under and upper
slide-frames, a cloth clamp, a heart cam to move the latter in the direction of the
length of the button hole while the slide frames move it at right angles thereto,
and a trip-lever actuated by a pin or projection on the said cam, combined with
a latch, a slide-rod, a loose belt wheel, a brake wheel, and a spring to force the
belt wheel and brake wheel together as the catch lever is released by the trip-lever
after the completion of a button-hole.
It also comprises a rotating shaft, an attached brake wheel, a belt wheel loose
thereon, and a sliding shipper rod to move the said belt wheel on the said shaft,
combined with two springs of different strengths, and a latch-lever to act upon
and compress the weaker spring before fully compressing the stronger spring, and
operating substantially as hereinafter described.
It also comprises a clamp or holder to move the material under the needle,
combined with a cord-guide having its centre of motion coincident with the axis
of the needle.
It also comprises a needle bar, an eye-pointed needle, a cloth clamp, and means
for moving the same under the needle, combined with a cord-guide, and means for
moving the same about the axis of the needle to thereby place the end of the cord-
guide in advance of the needle while both sides of the button hole are being
stitched.
It also comprises a cord-guide having its axis of motion coincident with tho
axis of the needle, means for holding the said cord-guide to present its cord upon
the material in advance of the penetration of the material by the needle during
both the forward and backward movement of the cloth clamp, and means for
automatically releasing the said cord-guide and giving it a semi-rotation about
the needle preparatory to reversing the movement of the said clamp, as hereinafter
set forth.

page_text: It also comprises a clamp to hold and feed the material, combined with a rotary
reciprocating vertically movable bar and an attached cutter to cut the material
while held by the clamp directly under the needle bar.
It also comprises the combination with the head of the machine, a guide, a cutter
bar adapted to be reciprocated and partially rotated therein, and an attached
cutter blade, of a spring to elevate the cutter bar, and a stop to regulate its descent
when cutting a button-hole, as hereinafter described.
In the accompanying Drawings,
Figure 1 is a side elevation of a sewing machine provided with improvements
according to this Invention the catch lever being shown in its two extreme positions.
Figure 2, is a section on the line xx Figure 1, looking down upon the bed plate,
an arm being removed and the outer portion of the ring-slide being shown by
dotted lines as adjusted to occupy an angular position with relation to the upper
cross-slide, to shorten the extent of the movement of the clamp by the feeding
cam.
Figure 3, is a section on the line x¹ x¹ Figure 2.
Figure 4, is an underside view of the feeding cam for imparting movement to
the mechanism which actuates the cloth-carrying clamp.
Figure 5 is a top view of the plate on which the feeding cam rests and rotates,
the said plate covering the cross-slides, to be described, which are contained in the
upper slide frame, the said Figure also showing a portion of the trip lever which
operates the stop motion; the trip lover that operates the cording-dovice, and the
stud which is attached to the under-slide plate, the roller being removed therefrom.
Figure 6 is a partial section on the line ³ ³ Figure 2.
Figure 7 is an underside view of the machine, the fast and loose pulleys being
in section.
Figure 8 is a view showing the cloth-clamp removed.
Figure 9 is a section thereof on the dotted line the upper member of the
clamp being shown by dotted lines as elevated.
Figure 10 is a top view of the adjustable ring carrying the ring-slide by which
to adjust the movement of the clamp to the length of the button hole slit.
Figure 11 is a section thereof on the dotted line x*x*.
Figure 12 is a top view of the upper slide-frame, the plate shown in Figure 5
being removed to represent under it the adjustable ring, the ring-slide, and the
upper cross-slide, the dotted lines showing the ring and ring-slide partially rotated
to shorten the movement of the clamp, as will be described.
Figuro 13, is a similar view with the adjustable ring, the ring-slide, and the
upper cross-slide removed to expose the under cross-slide which is attached to the
clamp, the upper slide-frame being broken out to show the recess made in
the lower slide-frame for the reception of the spring to be described.
Figure 14 is a top view of the under-slide frame and its connecting link.
Figure 15 is a section on the line xx Figure 14.
Figure 16 is a section on the line xx Figure 2, looking toward the right and
representing the over-stitch regulating-lever switch-cam, and follower.
Figures 17 and 18 are views of the switch-cam follower.
Figure 19 shows the switch-cam developed.
Figure 20 is a detail view of the upper cross-slide.
Figure 21 is a detail view of the ring-slide.
Figure 22, is a partial front view of the machine chiefly to show the cloth-
cutting device, and the front end of the clamp, the latter being closed, the cloth
being however omitted.
Figure 23 is a front elevation of the cloth-clamp detached.
Figure 24, is a detail view showing the corder-carrier, or arm, described.
Figure 25 is a diagram of a piece of cloth stitched or worked about the edge of
the button hole slit, the stitch being spread to avoid confusion.

page_text: Figure 26 shows views of the throat-plate and movable arm cöoperating with the
cutter.
Figure 27 is a side view of the cutter detached.
Figure 28 is a longitudinal vertical section of a modified form of mechanism.
Figure 29 is a cross section thereof.
Figure 30 is a top view of part of the bed plate, the under slide-frame and the
modified form of upper-slide or cross-frame, and other parts to be described,
the feeding-cam, feed-wheel, and arm which holds their fulcrum-pin being
removed, and
Figure 31 is a perspective view of the said upper slide or cross-frame.
The arm A, the bed plate A, the needle bar A³, the needle A³, the needle-bar
operating rock-shaft A', the devices for connecting it with the needle-bar and with
the main shaft A5, the hook shaft and the hook A, and the take-up lever A7, are
all substantially as in the well known "Wheeler and Wilson" machine so need not
be herein further described.
The main shaft A has applied to it a novel switch-cam B which imparts
movement to the clamp or cloth-carrying mechanism. Ordinarily, switch-cams
have two grooves the follower always riding in one of the said grooves, and as the
follower crosses the switch or intersection of the said grooves it is left unsupported
so that it is not properly guided as it should be, and it frequently happens that the
follower strikes and breaks off the sharp points of the switch cam; and further,
such old styles of switch-cam and follower are objectionable because of the noise
produced when the follower crosses the switch.
The novel switch-cam herein described is provided with four grooves a, a, a², a³,
shown best in Figure 19, cut to form a doublo pointed frog 2, and leave rails a', a³,
on which the follower a travels, it embracing and passing successively from one
to the other of the said rails, and in its passage crossing the double pointed frog 2,
the latter guiding and steadying the follower so that it cannot strike and break or
injure any of the points of the said cam.
With a switch-cam constructed as described, and a follower to ride on its tracks,
the sewing machine may be run with less wear and noise, and at greater speed,
than with an ordinary switch-cam.
The shank u of the follower is extended into a socket b forming part of the
arm of the vibrating over-stitch regulating-lever B', and is retained thereon
loosely by a collar b¹.
The lever B¹ has its fulcrum on a post B2, held to the bed plate A' by a nut B³,
see Figure 7, the said lever being held upon the said post by a screw 3.
The arm of the lever B¹ has adjustably attached to it by a suitable bolt b³
and nut b, a pulling or draw pawl 65, it serving by its tooth b¹³ to engage tho
peripherical teeth of the feed-wheel C.
The rear end of the pawl 68 has two flat surfaces against one or the other of
which, at the will of the operator, acts a spring be attached to the lever B' by a
screw 67, the said spring when upon one of the flat surfaces acting to hold the pawl
in engagement with the teeth of the feed wheel as in Figure 2, and when against
the other surface, to hold the pawl out of engagement therewith and pointing in
substantially the direction of the slot in the arm b².
The adjustment of the pawl with relation to the fulcrum of the lever B¹ varies
the extent of movement of the feed-wheel C and the feeding cam C₁ attached
thereto by the screw b³.
The arm bº of the lever B³, is slotted, see Figure 2, and receives in it the bolt 610
which, provided at its lower end with a socketed hub, and made adjustable in the
said slot in usual manner, receives upon it one end of the link 612, which latter is
attached to the said hub by a screw b¹
The opposite end of the link 6 is attached by a screw c to a stud cº, (see
Figure 15,) screwed into the bottom of the under slide-frame C, shown separately
in Figure 14 the said frame being fitted to slide longitudinally in guide ways C³, C³,

page_text: attached to the bed-plate by suitable screws C, (see Figures 2 and 6,) one of the
said ways being preferably made adjustable.
The under slide-frame is provided at its top with a stud c³ attached to it by a
nut c', (see Figure 6).
The stud at its upper end is provided with a roller c³ which is connected
therewith by a screw c, and is tapped transversely to receive the space screw c³
which is employed to regulate the space or distance between the inner edges of the
button-hole slit. The top side of the under slide frame is cut away or recessed
atc (see Figure 14) for the reception of the spiral or other springs shown in
Figure 13.
}
The slide-frame C is provided internally with dove-tailed guides, (see Figure 6,)
to receive the feet d, of the upper slide-frame D, upon raised segmental projections
4, 4, of which, (see Figure 12) is fastened by screws d*, (see Figure 5,) the
plate D¹ on which rests the feeding cam C, the latter having its fulcrum on a
stud d screwed into the plate D¹, (see Figure 3) the said cam being pressed
downward upon the plate D', by a friction spring d regulated as to its pressure
by a nut d, the spring d preventing the over running of the feeding cam.
The upper slide-frame D has an opening d for the passage of the stud ³, and a
hole 6, for the reception of the screw D' that connects the trip lever D³ with the
said frame, and at its rear end the upper slide frame has attached to it by
screws 10, a cleat 12, against which act the rear ends of the springs c³, the front
ends of the springs resting against the shoulders 13 of the under slide-frame C³.
These springs are of sufficient strength to hold the plate D' of the upper slide-frame
in contact with the end of the space-screw and compel the said frame to move in
unison with the under slide frame, but the force of the said springs is overcome
and the upper slide-frame is moved independently and longitudinally on the under
slide-frame whenever the truly circular part of the feeding cam C¹, arrives against
the roller c³, the said circular part being of greater radius than the remaining parts
thereof. The truly circular part of the feeding cam C¹ comprises nearly half the
periphery of the said cam, and at each end of the truly circular part there is a cam
portion, the truly circular part being between the points 70 and 71, (see Figure 4),
and the cams between the points 70 and 69, and the points 71 and 72.
The plate D¹ fixed to the upper slide frame D, is normally pressed by the
springs toward the inner end of the space screw c made adjustable on the
stud c and is forced against the said space screw as in Figure 5, except when
the truly circular part of the feeding cam C' of greatest radius is acting upon the
roller of the said stud.
When the right hand side of the button-hole is being stitched, the roller c³ rests
against the part of the feeding cam C' of greatest radius, but when the left hand
side is being stitched the cam C' leaves the said roll, and the plate D' is pressed
against the inner end of the space-screw c³, the change of position in the upper and
lower slide frames with relation to each other by reason of the contact of the
inclined surfaces of the feeding cam C' with the roller c³ being gradual, to enable
the cloth-holding-clamp, hereinafter described, to be properly moved under the
needle A³ so as to enable the latter to penetrate the material and follow about the
button-hole slit, bar the same, and double stitch one end. The feeding cam C', at
its under side, has a cam-groove 15, seo Figure, 4, which receives a roller stud 16,
secured to the upper cross slide e (see Figure, 3, and Figure 20,) fitted into guides
in the plate D', the said stud 16, extending through a slot 17, in the plate D', (see
Figure 5,) the cam groove 15 causing the reciprocation of the said upper cross slide.
The under side of the upper cross slide e is provided with a stud 18, having a
square block which is fitted into a transverse slot 19, in the wide portion 20, of
the ring-slide f, ehown separately in Figure 21. The wide portion 20 of the ring-
slide is fitted into a slot 22, in the adjustable ring f' in turn fitted within a
circular opening made in the top of the upper slide-frame D. The ring slide f, at
its under side, has a stud and loose block 23 which enters a slot 24, in the lower

page_text: cross slide F, having rivetted to it the member G, of the cloth-clamp, the said
cross slide F being fitted to slide in guides made in the under side of the upper
slide-frame.
The upper cross-slide e and the lower cross-slide F are moved only in a straight
line transverse to the bed-plate.
The adjustable ring and the ring-slide f placed between the upper and lower
cross-slides as stated, may be moved in the arc of a circle for about 90°, and in
Figures 2 and 12, the said ring-slide is shown by dotted lines as turned aside for a
less distance.
When the ring-slide is parallel with the upper and lower cross-slides the cam
groove 15, in the rotation of the feeding cam, will move the cloth-clamp for the
full distance that the said cam is capable of moving it and the longest button-hole
will be produced, but partial rotation of the ring-slide f and ring f¹ out of
parallelisin with relation to the upper and lower cross-slides, as shown by dotted
lines in Figures 2, and 12, will shorten the extent of traverse of the cloth-clamp
under the action of the feeding cam C', to adapt the movement of the clamp to tho
length of the button-hole slit, the greater the angle between the ring slide and the
upper cross slide the shorter the button-hole; but should the ring slide be placed
at right angles to the upper and lower cross slides, only the upper cross-slide would
be reciprocated by the feed cam C and the cloth clamp would remain at rest.
Figure 12 represents by dotted lines the ring slide in one of its intermediate
positions.
The clamp which holds and moves the material to be stitched, under the needle,
is composed essentially of an under plate G and an upper plate G³ pivoted upon
the hinge-block G³ at G', the said plates being of rigid stiff steel.
The under plate, at its front end, is provided with a recess 124, (see Figures 8
and 9) and the outer forked end of the upper plate has connected with it, by
screws 28, an open spring plate or yoke 27, the screw holes in the yoke being
elongated so that the latter may be straightened under pressure, the normal
condition of the yoke being partially curved downward, as shown in Figure 9.
The foot 25, shown as a rectangular block having inclined sides and ends and
serrated at the bottom, has an opening through it longer and wider than the
largest button-lole to be worked, and the said foot is forced down upon the cloth
or other material, between it and the under plate and into the recess 12+, by the
cam lever G³ pivotted upon ears of a nut having journals, the nut being applied to
the threaded fulcrum-post G secured to the under plate and extended up through
a spiral spring and then through the upper plate as shown.
As the upper plate is forced down, the foot 25, pivotted centrally at 26 upon
the spring plate or yoke 27, comes against the cloth and adapts itself to the
thickness of the same, and bearing evenly upon the cloth is forced down against
the latter by the cam lever G³, the spring plate or yoke at such time straightening
under such downward pressure and permitting the foot to maintain a strong
uniform but yielding pressure or hold upon the material.
The clamp is moved transversely on the bed-plate for a greater or less distance
by the feeding cam C, (the distance depending upon the positions of the ring and
ring slide with relation to the upper and under cross-slides) and is moved
longitudinally on the bed plate by the over-stitch regulating-lever actuated by the
switch-cam.
Just as the button-holo is finished, the lower end of the pin 29, extended below
the lower side of the feeding cam C' strikes against and moves the trip-lever D³ to
disengage the catch-lever D from the shoulder 7 of the slotted plate D³ attached
to one of the guide ways C³.
The catch lever D has its fulcrum on a screw pin 8 inserted through ears
depending from the bed plate, (see Figure 1,) and the arm of the said lever below
the bed plate is connected by a link 9 with a suitable treadle, not shown.
A part of the lever D below its fulcrum 8, enters a slot in the end of the
sliding shipper rod H having its bearing in ribs of the frame.

page_text: The rod H, at its outer end, is provided with a forked shipper H³, which enters
an annular groove 30 in the hub of the belt pulley H2, loose on the hub of the
brake wheel H³ and fast upon the main shaft A. The forked shipper also has
adjustably attached to it the arm of a brake-shoe H' faced with leather or other
suitable material. In the Drawings the brake is shown as acting upon the brake
wheel, the parts being in the position that they will occupy just as the machine is
to be started.
The rod H is surrounded by two spiral springs h, h', of different strength, the
one h¹ being the stronger. The spring h rests at one end against a fixed part of
the frame and at its other end against the adjustable collar h attached to the
rod H. One end of the spring h₁ rests against the collar h³ adjustably attached to
the rod H, the other end of the said spring acting against the lower end of the
catch-lever D'.
As represented in full lines in Figure 1 the catch lever D* is disengaged from
the shoulder 7, and the spring h¹ is in its normal relaxed and powerless condition,
thus permitting the spring h of less strength, to control the rod H, and force tho
brake-shoe against the brake wheel HS with a force due solely to its strength. As
the catch-lever D' is brought forward into the position shown in dotted lines to
start the machine, the lower end of the lever D, acting upon the stronger spring h¹,
compresses the weaker spring h¹ and overcomes the pressure of the brake shoe on
its brake wheel, thus releasing the brake from the brake wheel, and in the further
movement of the catch-lever the stronger spring is compressed and made to move
the rod longitudinally backward, and by the forked shipper force the loose belt-
pulley closely against the conical face of the fast brake wheel, thus starting the
machine. Thus by one rod and lever and two springs of different strength on the
same rod, both the brake shoe and the belt pulley may be forced against the brake
wheel with a yielding pressure. The catch lever, when in its forward position, will
be caught on the shoulder 7.
The machine is provided with a cord guide to enable a cord to be laid about the
edge of the button-hole before the same is overstiched, and the cord guide is
adapted to be partially rotated about the needle bar as a centre in one, and then
back in the opposite direction, so that the cord guide may stand at the rear of the
needle when the clamp is feeding the cloth toward the operator, and in front of
the needle when the said clamp is moving the material away from the operator.
This change of position of the cord guide is effected automatically.
The head of the machine has attached to it, by screw 32, the corder yoke m, the
latter having a sleeve 33, (see Figure 1,) to surround the needle bar and extended
upwardly; the said sleeve receives about it a spring 34.
The sleeve 33 serves as a bearing for the hub 35 of the corder carrier arm m³,
provided with the cord guide or rod m and having at its lower end an eye for
the passage of the cord.
The spring 34 at one end is connected with the hub 35 of the arm m³, and at its
other end with the sleeve 33. The hub 35 of the arm m³ is notched at 36, to
receive the end of the pawl 37 pivotted at 38, on the corder yoke, (see Figure 2),
a spring 39 acting to keep the end of the said pawl in the said notch and hold the
arm m³ in the position shown in full lines Figures 1, 2 and 22, the position the
corder guide will occupy when the right hand side of the button hole is being
corded and stitched, the clamp at such time being moved in the direction of the
arrow 40, or toward the operator.
The pawl 37 has fastened firmly to it by a screw 41, the trip lever 42 provided
preferably at its outer end with an adjustable extension 43, (see Figure 5), which
is acted upon by the pin 29, before referred to, on the feeding cam, as soon as the
right side or one half of the sewed end of the button hole slit has been corded and
stitched, the said arm m³ being, at such time, released and permitting the spring 34,
to assume control of and swing the arm m³ and cord guide m' into the dotted
Hine position Figure 22, thus placing the cord guide in proper position at the

page_text: opposite side of the needle to enable the cord to be delivered upon the material in
advance of the stitching as the clamp is started in the opposite direction.
The cord is supplied to the corder from a suitable spool or ball.
It is not intended to limit this Invention to the particular mechanism represented
whereby the cord guide may be moved about the needle as a centre in one, and
then in the opposite direction, or whereby it is automatically operated to reverse
its position as the movement of the cloth clamp is reversed, as instead, any
equivalent mechanism may be employed.
In order to permit the cloth or other material held by the clamp to be quickly and
accurately cut to form the slit for the button-hole, the usual presser bar has been
removed from the head of the machine and a cutter bar R, provided at its lower end
with a button hole cutter R³, has been substituted for it, and to secure the correct
alignment of the cutter with the centre of the foot 25, the cutter bar has been
provided with a pin or projection r, which enters a directing slot or way r, in a
guide, made as a sleeve, connected with the upper end of the head of the machine,
the cutter bar reciprocating in the said sleeve. The cutter bar is normally kept in
elevated position by the spring ³, and as the cutter bar rises, the pin r, in the
curved or angular part of the slot 1, partially rotates the bar to remove the cutter
away from under the needle bar, but as the cutter is depressed by a blow the rod
is partially rotated and the cutter placed in proper central position with relation to
the foot.
The throat-plate u having the usual needle hole uº, is provided with a pivotted
plate 2 of steel, (see Figure 26,) which is pressed by a spring u against the steel
plate 100, which cooperates with the cutter R2 as the under member of a shear.
The cutter R2 descends between the cutter plate 100 and the movable plate u²
the latter acting to prevent the cloth from being forced through the said slot. The
descent of the cutter bar, and cutter R2 is determined by the adjustable collar 7º on
the cutter bar, the said collar striking the top of the sleeve.
The cam-groove 15 in the feeding cam C₁ is not a regularly shaped heart-cam,
such as ordinarily employed by mechanics, but is thickened at the heel and is
gradually curved each way to the point of the heart, thus making the heart of
greater radius than usual which enables the cross slides and clamp to dwell slightly
as the ends of the button hole slit are being varied.
The cam hub N fast on the shaft A, the follower N' attached to the lower end
of the take-up lever A7, the eccentric N³, and the connecting rod N* joining it with
the arm of the needle bar rock shaft are all as usual.
The ring and ring-slide being in proper position, the ring is secured by the
set screw p thus securing a uniform length of button hole.
The operation of the improved mechanism is as follows, that is to say :-
Assuming the parts to be in the position represented by Figures 1 and 2, and it
being desired to work a button hole, the material is placed in the clamp and the
catch-lever D is pulled to the left Figure 1, until it engages the shoulder 7 thus
forcing the belt pulley in contact with the brake wheel and driving the main
shaft.
The switch-cam then vibrates the over stitch regulating-lever B' so that the
pawl in engagement with the feed-wheel C will start the feeding cam C'.
At its start the roller 16 of the upper cross slide e rests in a groove 15 near one
side of the point of the cam as shown by dotted lines Figure 4, and in the outer
end of the slot 17 of the plate D¹ as in Figure 5.
с
The pawl b rotates the feeding cam, step by step, in the direction of the arrow
thereon, Figures 2 and 3, and at the start the end of the space-screw rests.
against the plate D¹, as in Figure 5, thus keeping the periphery of the feeding
cam C away from the roller c³.
.
Part of the periphery of the feeding cam C¹ is cut away to leave a circular part
between the points 70, and 71, with inclined or cam shaped portions, as described,
at each end of the circular portion, the remaining portion of the periphery of the
cam being further cut away to suit it performing no function. Figure 25 is a

page_text: diagram of a button hole slit such as the machine herein described is adapted to
make, and by the machine it is preferred to stitch twice over or double stitch that
end of the button-hole elit at which the stitching is commenced and ended.
In the position shown in Figure 25 the needle will penetrate the material at the
point 60, at the left side of the button hole slit a little way back froin the end of
the said slit nearest the operator.
In the rotation of the feeding cam, just before the roller stud 16 reaches the
point of the cam groove 15, the inclined or cam portion of the feeding cam C¹¹
between the points 69 and 70 strikes the roller c, causing the said feeding cam,
the upper slide frame, and the cloth-clamp to be moved gradually to the left, thus
enabling the needle A³ to stitch about and bar the end of the button-hole slit
nearest the operator, the barring stitch commencing at the point 61, (see Figure 25,)
and ending at the point 62, at which time the point of the cam 15 has passed the
roller stud 16, and the roller c³ arrives upon the truly circular part of the feeding
cam. While the roller rests upon the said cam from the points 70 to 71, the right
hand side of the button hole is stitched from the point 62 to the point 63, and the
right side of the button-hole having been worked, the roller c³ passes down in
contact with the inclined or cam-shaped part of the feeding cam between the
points 71 and 72, thus enabling the feeding cam, the upper slide-frame and cloth-
clamp to be gradually moved toward the right by the springs c to bring the
plate D against the end of the space screw c, thus barring the rear end of the
button hole slit from its point 63 to the point 64. On the arrival of the cloth
clamp in such position that the needle penetrates the cloth at the point 64 the
clamp is moved away from the operator in a straight line by the feeding cam and
the left side of the button hole slit is worked and the stitching having arrived at
the starting point 60, the movement of the feeding cam is continued to operate the
clamp and causes stitches to be made as before about the end of the button hole
slit to the point 65, when the button hole slit having been finished, the pin 29
strikes the trip lever D³, releases the catch lever D', and offects the stopping of the
machine.
Preparatory to working the next button-hole slit, the operator moves the pawl
trip 67 pivotted at 68 on the feeding plate and thereby throws the hook of the
pawl be out from engagement with the teeth of the feed wheel C, leaving the said
feed wheel and feeding can attached to it, free to be turned backward by hand into
the position shown in full lines, Figure 2.
When the feeding cam starts, the pin 29 occupies the position shown by dotted
lines in Figure 2 and as it passed the end of the trip-lever, the said pin would stop
the machine. To obviate the stopping of the machine at such time the operator
retains his foot upon the treadle and prevents the rod H from being moved back-
ward when the catch-lever is so released from the shoulder 7. As soon as the pin
passes from the trip lever, the foot of the operator being yet on the treadle, the
catch lever resumes its position on the shoulder 7, but as the pin 29 in the further
rotation of the feeding cam again strikes the trip lever D³, the button hole having
been finished, the catch lever, when released, is permitted to fly back into the full
line position Figure 1.
The overstitch regulating lever serves to actuate not only the link and under
slide frame, but also the pawl that operates the feed-wheel, and the adjustment of
the said link and pawl in the slotted arms of the said lever governs the extent not
only of the throw of the under slide frame and consequently the distance of the
stitch back from the edge of the button hole, but also the extent of movement of
the feed-wheel.
In the modification shown in Figures 28 to 31 parts substantially like those
already described will be indicated by similar letters. A¹ indicates the bed plate,
A³ the usual rotating hook shaft, w³ an ordinary switch cam thereon, B¹ a two-
armed overstitch regulating lever, and 612 a link to connect it with the under
slide-frame fitted to slide in guides C3 secured to the bed plate.

page_text: The clamp is the same as described and its under member G is rivetted to the
cross slide e* having a roller stud 16. The cross slide e is placed in a groove w
of the upper slide frame or cross slide D*, slotted at w³ for the passage through
it of the roller stud 16, the latter also ontering the cam-groove 15, in the
feeding cam.
The slide D has an extension w³ which is fitted into a guide way or groove in
the frame C and the grooved part of the said slido D enters a slot w³ in the
frame C. The parts of the frame D⚫ are acted upon by springs c³ which
normally keep the front end of the said frame against the end of the space
screw 2010
The frame D has a roller stud c3 which is acted upon by the periphery of the
feeding cam C shaped as already described and being a truly circular portion, and
cams or inclines at each end.
When the inclines of the cam C' as previously described, strike the roller stud c
it acts to compress the springs cand change the position of the frame D* with
relation to the under slide frame C2 so as to enable the needle to penetrate a
different edge of the button hole.
In this modification the feeding cam C' and the feed wheel C have their fulcrum
pin w fastened in an arm w¹ attached by suitable screws to the under slide
frame.
The cam groove 15 acting on the roller stud 16 moves the slide e* transversely
of the bed plate and takes with it the cloth clamp, the vibrating or overstitch
movements of the frame and slides being derived from the lever B'.
To change the length of the button hole, a new cam has to be employed which is
not the case when the ring and ring slide are employed.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
Invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is :-
First. In a button hole sewing machine the bed-plate, a slide frame C² in guides
thereon, an overstitch regulating lever connected with, and reciprocating, the said
slide frame in a direction at right angles to the length of the button hole, a clamp
or holder to move the material, and a cross slide fixed to the said clamp, combined
with a rotating heart-shaped cam 15, and intermediate mechanism to move the
cross slide fixed to the said clamp in the direction of the length of the button-hole,
and with a peripheral cam and spring to effect a change of position of the cloth
clamp or holder and its attached cross slide upon the slide frame C³ when it is
desired to stitch from one side of the button hole across its end, and along the
opposite side of the button hole, substantially as shown and described.
Second. In a button-hole sewing machine, a clamp or holder to move the cloth or
material to be stitched, an attached under cross-slide, an under slide-frame, and an
upper cross-slide and a cam to reciprocate the latter, combined with an inter-
mediate ring and ring-slide, or their equivalents, to control the movement of the
clamp in the direction of the length of the button-hole slit, substantially as
described.
Third. The rotating feed wheel and an attached feeding-cam having the same
centre of rotation, a cross-slide actuated by the said cam, and a cloth-holding clamp
in operative connection therewith and made movable in the direction of the button-
hole, through the said cam and cross-slide, combined with a slide made movable on
the bed plate at right angles to the length of the button-hole slit, and with a stud
acted upon by the said feeding cam, which latter is pressed toward the stud by a
spring, the said cam, during a part of its rotation, automatically effecting a change
in the position of the clamp with relation to the slide which moves it at right
angles to the length of the button hole, whereby the needle is enabled to penetrate
the material along first one and then the other side of the button hole, substantially
as described.
Fourth. The combination with a cloth-clamp in a button-hole sewing machine,
of a cross-slide connected with the clamp, a feeding cam, a cross-slide actuated by

page_text: it and made movable in the direction of the length of the button-hole, and an
intermediate adjustable ring slide, whereby the movement in the direction of the
length of the button-hole of the cross-slide attached to the clamp may be made less
than the movement of the upper cross-slide actuated by the said cain, thus enabling
the same mechanism to move the cloth clamp for a greater or less distance in the
length of the button hole to accomodate for button-holes of different lengths,
substantially as described.
Fifth. A clamp or holder to move the material, an attached under cross slide, a
reciprocating under cross slide-frame provided with a stud and space screw, an
upper cross-slide and upper slide-frame, and a spring or springs to move the upper
slide-frame on the under slide frame, combined with a cain having a groove 15, to
move the upper cross slide, and a peripheral cam having a circular portion and
inclines to control the movement of the upper slide frame on the under slide frame
during a part of the rotation of the said cam to enable the clamp to be properly
moved to bar the ends of the button-hole, substantially as described.
Sixth. The bed-plate, the under slide-frame, the upper slide frame, the
intermediate cross slides, the connected cloth clamp or holder a cam to operate the
same to move the clamp or holder backward and forward parallel with the centre
of the button-hole to be worked, and a feeding wheel, combined with the shaft A³,
the switch cam, the two-armed over-stitch regulating lever moved by it, and the
link for connecting the said lever with the under slide frame, and the adjustable
pawl 6³, to actuate the feed wheel and cam, substantially as described.
Seventh. The under slide frame having an uniform reciprocating movement to
regulate the length of the stitch from the inner edge of the button hole slit
outward the upper slide-frame and a cloth clamp reciprocated with it at right
angles to the button hole slit, combined with a spring or springs and a cam and
stud to change the relative positions of the upper slide frame and cloth clamp or
holder and with relation to the under slide-frame as the latter is being reciprocated,
thereby enabling the needle of the stitching mechanism to penetrate the material
held by the cloth clamp along one side of the centre of the button-hole and
about its ends to bar the same, and then along the other side of the said hole,
substantially as described.
Eighth. The under slide-frame, the cloth clamp or holder moved with it as
described, the overstitch regulating lever, means between it and the slide frame to
move the latter, and the grooved follower connected with the said lever combined
with a switch-cam provided with tracks embraced by the said follower, the said
cam having a double pointed frog located at the switch point, substantially as
described.
Ninth. In a sewing machine, a rotating shaft and attached switch cam provided
with tracks a, a, and a double pointed frog 2, combined with a lover provided
with a follower grooved to straddle and pass from one to the other of the said
tracks, substantially as described.
Tenth. The under member or plate G of the cloth clamp combined with the
upper forked jaw or plate pivotted to rise and fall with relation to the under
member or plate and provided with an attached spring-plate and hollow foot
pivotted thereon, and operating substantially as described.
Eleventh. The lever B, its pawl 6, the heart-cam, its attached feed wheel, and
the cloth clamp actuated in one direction by the said cam, combined with the pawl
lifter for disengaging the pawl from the feed wheel and permitting it and the cam
to be rotated by hand, substantially as described.
Twelfth. In a sewing machine for making button holes, stitch forming
mechanism, and reciprocating under and upper slide frames, a cloth clamp and a
heart-cam to move the latter in the direction of the length of the button hole while
the slide frames move it at right angles thereto, and the trip lever D³ actuated
by a pin or projection on the said cam combined with a latch, a slide rod, a loose
belt wheel, a brake wheel, and a spring to force the belt wheel and brake wheel

page_text: together as the catch lever is released by the trip lever after the completion of n
button-hole, substantially as described.
Thirteenth. In a sewing machine the shaft A5, its attached brake wheel, the belt
wheel loose thereon, and the sliding shipper rod for moving the said belt wheel on
the said shaft, combined with two springs of different strengths, and a latch-lever D'
to act upon and compress the weaker spring before fully compressing the stronger
spring and operating, substantially as described.
Fourteenth. In a button hole sewing machine, a clamp or holder to move the
material under the needle combined with a cord guide having its centre of motion
coincident with the axis of the needle.
Fifteenth. In a button hole sewing machine, the needle bar, an eye pointed
needle, a cloth clamp, and means for moving the same under the needle, combined
with a cord guide and means for moving the same about the axis of the needle to
thereby place the end of the cord guide in advance of the needle while both sides
of the button hole are being stitched.
Sixteenth. In a button-hole sewing machine, a cord guide having its axis of
motion coincident with the axis of the needle, means for holding the said cord
guide to present the cord upon the material in advance of the penetration of the
material by the needle during both the forward and backward movement of the
cloth clamp, and means for automatically releasing the said cord-guide and giving
it a semi-rotation about the needle preparatory to reversing the movement of the
said clamp, as set forth.
Seventeenth. In a button-hole sewing machine, a clamp to hold and feed the
material, combined with a rotary reciprocating vertically movable bar and attached
cutter to cut the material while held by the clamp directly under the needle bar.
Eighteenth. The head of the machine, the guide, the cutter bar adapted to be
reciprocated and partially rotated therein, and its attached cutter blade, combined
with a spring to elevate the cutter bar, and a stop to regulate its descent when
cutting a button hole, substantially as described.
Dad thin 30th Jan of 7004
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
For the Applicant.