Improvements in the Manufacture of Cut Pile Fabrics and in Looms Employed therein.
Year: 1889

page_text: Date of Application, 2nd Apr., 1889
'Complete Specification Left, 1st Jan., 1890-Accepted, 1st Feb., 1890
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Cut Pile Fabrics and in Looms
Employed therein.
1. GUSTAVUS ADOLPHUS JOHN SCHOTT of Bradford in the County of York,
Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this Invention to be as follows :--
My Invention relates to the manufacture of velvets, plushes and other fabrics
having a pile formed by cutting floating weft as is well understood, and consists of
improvements in the Invention for which application for Letters Patent was made by
myself conjointly with a certain Friedrich Hermann Wilke on the twenty ninth day
of May in the year 1888 such application bearing the official number 7822. In such
Invention wires passing through the reed spaces have their front ends woven into the.
races and serve to guide the races to cutters formed upon the wires or working or
inserted in guides or sheaths attached to the wire ends. In my present Invention I
use very thin sheet steel in the formation of the cutters and thereby am enabled to
dispense with the necessity for sharpening the same.
This use of thin steel is of
especial advantage in the cases of circular cutters. In practice I use sheet steel of
36 gauge but I state this only by way of example. The cutters may or may not be
hardened and tempered. In some cases I mount the cutter shaft in such a manner as..
that it is capable of yielding in an upward direction so that it can follow any slight
upward and downward movement of the cloth. I prefer to carry the said shaft by
means of arms which are hinged to a suitable fixed part of the loom or are attached
to a hinge pin which is mounted to turn in bearings the arms or the hinge pin being
free to move to some extent laterally or endwise. "Rotatory movement is imparted to
the shaft in such a manner as not to interfere with the said freedom to yieid. In
practice I impart motion to a spur wheel loosely mounted upon the said hinge pin
and connect this wheel by means of gearing with the cutter shaft. This method
permits me to vary the speed of the cutter shaft by changing the gearing or part of
the same.
A pitch chain or a band or helt might be substituted for the said gearing.
The downward movement of the cutter shaft is limited by means of adjustable stops.
The downward tendency of the cutter shaft may be due to gravity alone or be aided
by springs or the weight of the parts may be partly balanced so as to render the parts
capable of yielding more readily. Any temples used and the cross bar or part with
which the race guides or cutter sheaths are connected should be attached to the said
hinge pin or to the said arms or to arms adapted to carry such parts when circular
cutters are not used so that all the parts move together. I may impart positive motion
to the said binge pin or parts by means of a lever acted upon by the lay or other-
wise so as to move the cutters slightly up and down in concert with the action of the
healds. To restrain the lifting of the cloth I fix a bar or roller in front of the cutters
or a plate in rear of the same. In the latter case the thin edge of the said plate is
brought well forward toward the line of severance of the weft float in order to
prevent the ground cloth or the race guides from being lifted into contact with the
cutters. When arranging parts to yield as aforesaid I carry the said bar or plate so
that it shall move with the yielding parts. In place of the trough-shaped guides I
employ flat plates each plate being attached to a wire, cutters working in the spaces
between the plates. The rear end of each plate is made of a hook shape for facility
of connection with a cross rail or angle bar or is otherwise suitably adapted for such
connection. The point of connection of a wire with its plate is higher than the line
of severance so that the floats are raised toward the cutter. A cross bar below the
cloth prevents undue depression of the wires. To keep the plates upright and at
intervals apart without preventing lateral movement I employ a long spiral spring or
wire coil. In a modification of this method I dispense with the said plates and attach
D

page_text: the wires to a cross rail or part behind the cutters the line of attachment being above
the cloth so that the floats are raised toward the cutters the connection of the wires
with the cross rail permitting of lateral movement of the wires. The cross rail to
which the wires are attached may be adjustable. In place of attaching the back ends
of the wires to a rock shaft I leave them free passing them through a reed or grating
to prevent entanglement. The free ends of the wires pass into a suitable box.
According to another method I attach the back ends of the wires to the upper ends
of rocking loaded levers. In some cases and especially in the cases of very fine
goods I employ more than one cutter shaft one set of cutters acting in advance of
the others either with or without the use of sheet metal guides.
In the cases of long pile goods which necessitate long floats of weft I have
experienced difficulties in cutting the float accurately in the centre. I shorten the
float to be cut by tyeing down the full float with single warp ends which do not
prevent the brushes or finishing appliances from drawing out the pile to its full length.
By cutting the full floats at points which are not central I can obtain an irregular
pile. In the weaving of narrow goods I use circular cutters of larger diameter at
intervals upon the cutter shaft these larger cutters severing tho cloth into ribands.
DUTTON & FULTON,
1, St. James' Square, Manchester, Agents.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Cut Pile Fabrics and in Looms
Employed therein.
I GUSTAVUS ADOLPHUS JOHN SCHOTT of Bradford, in the County of York,
Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this Invention and in what manner
the same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement and accompanying drawings:-
My Invention relates to the manufacture of velvets, plushes and other fabrics
having a pile formed by cutting floating weft as is well understood, and consists of
"improvements in the Invention for which application for Letters Patent was made by
myself coniointly with a certain Friedrich Hermann Wilke on the twenty ninth day of
May in the year 1888 such application bearing the official number 7822. In such
Invention wires passing through the reed spaces have their front ends woven into the
races and serve to guide the races to cutters formed upon the wires or working or
inserted in guides or sheaths attached to the wire ends. In my present invention I
use very thin sheet steel in the formation of the cutters and thereby am enabled to
dispense with the necessity for sharpening the same. This use of thin steel is of
especial advantage in the cases of circular cutters. In practice I use sheet steel of
36 guage but I state this only by way of example. The cutters may or may not be
hardened and tempered. In some cases I mount the cutter shaft in such a manner
as that it is capable of yielding in an upward direction so that it can follow any
slight upward and downward movement of the cloth.
C
This and certain other parts of my Invention I will describe with reference to the
accompanying two sheets of drawings. In the said drawings Figs. 1 to 3 illustrate
my improved method of mounting the cutter shaft and certain other parts which I
apply to the loom; Fig. 2 being a plan, Fig. 1a cross section on the line A and
Fig. 3 a cross section on the line B. In the said Figs. a is the breast beam of the
loom and is the cutter shaft. To the said breast beam are secured brackets c which
are bored to receive a hinge pin d which is mounted to rock freely in the bearings in
the said brackets. As one end only of the cutter shaft appears in Fig. 2 only one
bracket appears but it will be understood that there are two such brackets or more if
the width of the loom should render it desirable. Upon the pin d are fixed two
arms e one at or near each end of the pin and in bearings in the outer ends of these
aras is mounted the cutter shaft. which carries the thin circular cutters. To the
arms e or if preferred to separate arms is fixed a bar which extends over the

page_text: cloth being woven and serves the purpose of the bar in the drawings which
accompany the specification of the said former Invention or serves to hold in position
the race guides or cutter sheaths which will be hereinafter described. To the under-
side of the bar g is secured a plate which is formed with a thin front edge which
is brought well forward toward the line of severance of the weft float in order to
prevent the ground cloth or the race guides from being lifted into contact with the
cutters. To the outer ends of the arms fis fixed a second bar which is further
sustained by means of intermediate arms "excepting in the cases of looms for
weaving narrow goods. The cloth passes over the bar f¹ and below the plate g¹ on
its way to the breast beam as shown in Fig. 3. It will be seen that if the cloth be in
contact with the two parts g' and these parts will partake of any upward and down-
ward movements of the cloth and that as the arms which carry the said parts are
fixed to the same hinge pin as the arms e the cutters and the race guides or cutter
sheaths will also partake of the same movements so that all the parts will move in
unison and the relations of the cutters with the float races and the guides will be
maintained. The cutter shaft is connected by gearing with a wheel which
revolves loosely upon the pin d and receives motion from a chain or driving band
which is driven by a wheel upon the tappet or crank shaft of the loom. The speed
of the cutter shaft can be readily varied by changing the gearing i. i. A pitch
chain or a band or belt might be substituted for the said gearing. The downward
movement of the cutter shaft is limited by means of adjustable stops. The downward
tendency of the cutter shaft may be due to gravity alone or be aided by springs or
the weight of the parts may be partly balanced so as to render the parts capable of
yielding more readily. Any temples used should be attached to the said hinge pin or
to the said arms or to arms adapted to carry such parts when circular cutters are not
used so that all the parts move together. I may impart positive motion to the said
hinge pin or parts by means of a lever acted upon by the lay or otherwise so as to
move the cutters slightly up and down in concert with the action of the healds. In
place of the plates a roller or bar carried in front of the cutters might be used and
if preferred a roller might take the place of the bar h. In place of the trough-
shaped guides I employ Hat plates cach plate being attached to a wire, the cutters
working in the spaces between the plates. This construction is illustrated in Figs. 6
and 7 wherein the parts g. g¹ and are the same as in Figs. 2 and 3. Upon the bar
are hooked sheet metal plates which I use in place of the sheaths in the said former
invention. To each plate is secured one end of a wire j¹ the point of connection of
the wire with the plate being higher than the line of severance of the floats in order
that the floats may be raised toward the cutters. The plates are kept at a suitable
distance apart and in an upright position by means of a light spiral spring or wire
coil k which does not interfere with the lateral movements of the plates. Figs. 4
and 5 illustrate a modification wherein the plates are dispensed with and the wires
are attached to the bar g or to a bar or cross rail which takes its place. In the
example the wires are attached to a rod which is seated in a recess in a cross rail g²
and is kept in place by means of a hinged bar g³. The wires are preferably doubled
as indicated in Fig. 5 and bent into a hook which engages with the rod l. It is
intended that both ends of the looped wire shall pass through the sanie race the cutter
being designed to work between the two parts of the looped wire but in the cases of
very fine goods it might be necessary to pass only a single wire through each race.
It will be seen that the races are opened or lifted when they arrive at the inclined
portions of the wires. A broken or damaged wire can be replaced without removing
the rod from the loom. It will be seen that the connection of the wires with the
rod permits of lateral movement on the part of the wires. In some cases and especially
in the cases of very fine goods I employ more than one cutter shaft one set of cutters
acting in advance of the others either with or without the use of sheet metal guides.
Fig. S illustrates an arrangement wherein two cutter shafts are employed. In this
example the cutters are used in connection with plates attached to wires j similarly
to the example illustrated by Figs. 6 and 7 but with the difference that two wires are
attached to each plate. Cutter sheaths or simple wires may be used in place of the

page_text: plates and wires. In place of attaching the back ends of the wires to a rock shaft
I leave them free and by preference pass them through a reed or grating to prevent
entanglement Fig. 9 illustrates this arrangement. The back end of each wire ji passes
into a box m which may be made of any suitable form. If preferred the mouth of
this box may be provided with a grating to prevent entanglement of the wires.
According to another method I attach the back ends of the wires to the upper ends of
rocking loaded levers as indicated in Fig. 10. In this example the back end of each
wire is attached to the upper end of a lever n which is mounted to rock upon a bar o
and is formed with a load upon its lower end the tendency of such load being to
draw the wire toward the back of the loom the lever yielding by rocking upon the
supporting rod as the wire is drawn forward by the action of the healds. In the
cases of long pile goods which necessitate long floats of weft I have experienced
difficulties in cutting the float accurately in the centre. I shorten the float to be cut
by tycing down the full float with single warp ends which do not prevent the brushes
or finishing appliances from drawing out the pile to its full length. By cutting the
full floats at points which are not central 1 can obtain an irregular pile. In the
weaving of narrow goods I use circular cutters of larger diameter at intervals upon
the cutter shaft these larger cutters severing the cloth into ribands. Such an
arrangement would be applicable more especially in the weaving of ribbon velvets or
of chenilles.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said Inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is :-
(1) The thin sheet steel cutters as and for the purpose set forth.
(2) The combination of parts substantially as and for the purpose set forth and
indicated with reference to Figs. 1. 2. and 3 of the drawings.
(3) As applied to a loom for weaving cut pile fabrics the hinge pin carrying the
cutter shaft provided with disc shaped revolving cutters and other parts which it is
advisable should move with the cloth substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
(4) The plate g or an alternative bar or roller applied in front of the cutters above
the cloth for the purpose set forth.
(5) The plates connected with the wires which pass through the harness
substantially as and for the purpose set forth and indicated."
The spiral spring & applied as and for the purpose set forth.
The wires passing through the harness and attached to a cross bar in
combination with revolving cutters entering between the rising ends of the wires
substantially as and for the purpose set forth with reference to Figs. 4 and 5 of the
drawings.
(8) Permitting the loose ends of wires employed for the specified purpose to rest
freely in a box or receptacle substantially as and for the purpose set forth."
(9) Sustaining the ends of wires employed for the specified purpose substantially
in the manner set forth with reference to Fig. 9 of the drawings.
(10) As applied to looms for weaving cut weft pile fabrics two or more cutter
shafts carrying thin steel cutters applied substantially as set forth with reference to
Fig. 8 of the drawings.
(11) In the weaving of weft pile fabrics having long floats tyeing down the floats
by weaving them in with single warp ends for the purpose set forth.
(12) The use of cutters larger in diameter than the pile cutters in order to divide
the web into narrower pieces substantially as set forth.
Dated this 31st day of December 1889
DUTTON & FULTON,
1, St. James' Square, Manchester, Agents.