IMPROVEMENTS IN BUTTON HOLE SEWING MACHINES
Year: 1886

page_text: We, EDWARD BLACKFAN MOORE, of Westchester in the County of Chester, State
of Pennsylvania, United States of America, printer, GEORGE REHFUSS and MARTIN
OSCAR REHFUSS, both of the city of Philadelphia in said State, machinists, do hereby
declare the nature of our invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN BUTTON HOLE SEWING
MACHINES" and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
Our invention has relation to that class of sewing machines which are adapted to
stitch a button-hole having a rounded end and in which the cloth or fabric in which
the button-hole is formed is moved by means of a feed-slide consisting of a plate
carrying a rotary disc.
Our invention further relates to that class of sewing machines in which the button-
hole stitch is formed by means of a needle and a looper, the former being secured in
the usual manner to a needle-bar above the cloth-plate and the latter to a carrier that
moves in a guide below said cloth-plate.
Our improvements consist in the peculiar construction and combinations of parts
hereinafter fully described and specifically claimed.
We will first describe the parts shown on sheets 1, 2 and 3 of the drawing, and
subsequently the parts shown on the other sheets.
In said sheets figure 1 is a plan of under side of feed-slide showing disc in the
position it occupies when button-hole has been completed; figure 2 is a plan of same
showing position parts occupy in stitching first side of button-hole; figure 3 is a plan
of mechanism and parts below the feed-slide, the latter being removed; figure 4 is a
plan with feed-slide in position, the slide being represented in dotted lines and the
mechanism beneath shown in full lines, as if said slide were transparent; figure 5 is a
transverse section on line x-x of figure 6; figure 6 is a plan of under side of bed-
piece; figure 7 is a vertical section on enlarged scale of the joint between the looper-
carrier and its retracting lever; figures 8 and 9 are transverse vertical sections taken
on lines y-y and z-z respectively of figure 6 ; figure 10 is a plan of feed-mechanism,

page_text: the feed-slide being shown as if transparent and the parts in position for the rotation
of the disc; figure 11 is a vertical section showing clamp and button-hole locating
device, and including needle bar and head or forks; figure 12 is a vertical detail
section of feed-slide; figure 13 is a vertical section showing needle-bar with adjustable
bearings figures 14 and 15 are respectively a plan and a side elevation of eccentric
bearing for needle bar.
Referring to said sheets 1, 2 and 3, A (in figures 3, 4, 5 and 10) designates the
cloth-plate of a sewing machine which is designed to be fitted in a suitable table and
preferably flush with the top of the latter. B (in Figures 3, 4, 5, 6 and 9) represents
the bed-piece of the machine which is a casting to which the cloth-plate secured or
with which it is made integral. Said cloth-plate is recessed on its upper side as shown
at C to receive the feed-slide D, the longitudinal edges of said recess being.inclined
or beveled and said slide being provided on its under side with a bevel-edged block d
and a spring-slide d' which fits into or beneath said edges, holding the feed-slide down
on the cloth-plate but permitting its longitudinal movement thereon. The feed-slide
comprises the plate D and the rotary or swiveled disc G carried thereon. E is the
feed-plate guide and consists of a plate rigidly fastened in the recess C at the
inner end of the latter by means of a screw e which passes down into the bed-
piece B, said guide having a slot e¹ which is traversed by a roller on a screw-pin d²
projecting downwardly from the feed-slide D. Said pin d² receives a screw d³ holding
a washer d² and encircled by a spiral spring which fits between the head of the screw
and said washer, this construction (shown in figure 12) holding the inner end of the
feed-slide down on the guide and operating to guide said feed-slide as hereinafter fully
explained.
The feed-slide or plate D carries a disc G swiveled therein so as to be capable of
rotary motion on its vertical axis to which said disc there should be attached a cloth-
clamp and spreader of suitable construction such as are ordinarily employed in
button-hole sewing-machines of the class to which our improvements relate, said clamp
and spreader being illustrated in figure 11 of the drawing and represented at Y. To
impart a rectilinear motion to the feed-slide and a rotary motion to the disc the slide
is provided with a straight rack and the disc with a segmental rack, said racks being
on the under side of said feed-slide and disc respectively. The straight rack is shown
at H and consists of a toothed bar pivoted at h to the feed-slide in a recess formed on
the under side of the latter and having at its opposite end a spring catch h¹ which
engages with a stud h² on the under side of said feed-slide. When so engaged the
rack-bar H is held rigidly, parallel with the long sides of the feed-slide and aligned
with the line of feed movement of said slide. Said rack then meshes with a pinion i
fast on the same shaft with a ratchet wheel, said shaft having its bearings in the
bed piece B. The ratchet ¹ is given an intermittent rotation by means of a pawl
carried on an arm I which is swiveled at one end on the ratchet-shaft 3 and pivotally
connected at its other end to a link k. Said link is secured by a hinge-joint to
an arm k fast on a rock shaft K supported in bearings k² k² on the under side of the
bed-piece B. Said shaft K is caused to rock in its bearings by means of a lever L
which is pivoted at 7 to the bed-piece B and to an arm k³ of shaft K, said arın being
longitudinally slotted for the reception and adjustment of a screw which unites
sajd lever L and arm k³ pivotally together. The lever L is caused to oscillate in a
vertical plane, when the main shaft M rotates, by reason of the fact that a pin which
projects laterally from said lever passes into a cam-groove in the end of a cam m² on
said main-shaft. By adjusting the screw in the slot in the arm ³ the extent of
rotation of the pinion i at each step or impulse and, consequently, the space between
the stitches may be regulated and varied. To impart rotary motion to the disc G the
latter has formed on its under side a segmental rack 9 consisting of teeth radially
disposed with reference to the eye g¹ or rounded end of the button-hole slot g² in said
disc. With the teeth of this segmental rack there engages a tooth n on a lever N
which is pivoted at one end to rock-arm K', on shaft K, its opposite end n² being
forked and straddling a cam m³ on the main shaft M whereby a motion similar to that
of a "four-motion "feed-bar is imparted to said tooth n, the latter during its upper

page_text: norizontal movement engaging with the teeth of rack g successively and during its
other movements being out of contact with said teeth.
The feed-slide must first slide lengthwise while the first straight side of the button-
hole is being stitched; and then obliquely while the first part of the eye is being
stitched, and these lengthwise and oblique movements must be imparted by the pinion i
and rack H in conjunction with guide E. Then the slide should dwell or come to
a state of rest while the disc G makes a half rotation or turns from the position shown
in figures 2 and 4 to that shown in figure 1. The feed-slide should then be moved
obliquely and afterwards longitudinally, which movements are derived from the rack H
and pinion i acting with guide E. To render the straight rack inoperative while the
disc is rotating and to bring said rack into operation after the disc has made its half
rotation the following construction is adopted. G₁ represents a segmentel flange
which depends from the under side of the disc G and stands outside the rack-teeth g.
O is a rod fitted in bearings oo on the bed-piece B. Said rod is adapted to be moved
longitudinally in said bearings and carries near its inner end a stud or collar o¹ which
lies in the path of the flange G¹, so that when the feed-slide has made its first oblique
movement already referred to said flange G¹ will meet and impinge against said
collar o', thereby imparting an inward longitudinal movement to rod O against the
resistance of an encircling spiral spring o² which rests between a shoulder o³ and one
of the bearings Q. The outer end of rod O is connected at o' to a lever P pivoted at p
to the bed-piece B and which rests in contact with a pin on the pawl, so that when
the described lengthwise movement of the rod O takes place the pawl 2 is thrown out
of engagement with the ratchet i, as shown in figure 10, so that no movement is then
communicated to said ratchet or to the pinion i. When this occurs the straight
rack H comes to a state of rest and the feed-slide is stationary, and this takes place
just after the feed-slide makes its first oblique movement, or when the pin d² attains
the
apex of the projection e² of the slot e¹ in the guide E. The tooth n now engages,
as already described, with the teeth of the segmental rack of the disc G and imparts
by intermittent impulses, or by a step-by-step movement, a half rotation to said disc,
moving the latter from its initial position shown in figures 2, 4 and 10 to its second
position shown in figure 1. While said half rotation is being effected the flange G¹,
impinging against the collar o¹, moves the rod O longitudinally inward, as already
described, and holds it so that the pawl 2 is kept out of engagement with the ratcheti¹³,
but the moment the half rotation is accomplished and when the disc is brought to the
position shown in figure 1, the flange G₁ clears the collar o' or passes out of contact
therewith, whereupon the spring o restores the rod O to its first position, shown in
figure 3, thus bringing the pawl into operative connection with the ratchet i¹. The
feed-slide is then moved obliquely, as the roller or pin d² moves down the incline of
the projection e² into the part e³ of slot e¹, and then straight along until the stitching
of the second straight side of the button-hole is accomplished.
Referring now particularly to figures 5, and 6, Q represents a block rigidly secured
to the bed-piece B, transverse of the latter but slightly oblique. This block has
in its side a segmental or curved groove q in which moves a carrier Q¹ to which is
attached the looper Q2, the latter being in the form of a curved eye-pointed needle. Said
carrier is in the form of a curved slide which moves annularly and has a curvilinear
reciprocating movement in a vertical plane imparted to it by means of a crank lever R.
Said lever is fulcrumed on a screw that passes into the bed-piece B, and the short
rm of said lever carries a pin on which is a roller that moves in a sinuous
groove m² in a cam M on the main shaft M. The long arm of said lever R is
Connected with the carrier Q¹ by a joint S of peculiar construction, which peculiar
oint is provided, owing to the fact that while the end of the lever oscillates in a
horizontal plane the carrier has a curvilinear movement in a vertical plane through
he plane of oscillation of said lever. This joint is constructed as follows:
A rigid
oins projecting laterally from the carrier Qi has fitted on it a sliding sleeve s¹ which
s formed with a spherical swell or bulb & that fits in a socket s³ in the head st of a
wivel pin s. This pin fits and has liberty of vertical and rotary motion in an
pening or eye in the end of the long arm of lever R. When the lever R oscillates

page_text: and communicates motion to carrier Q₁ the sleeve s¹ slides on pins and pin s³ swivels or
turns back and forth and also slides longitudinally in its bearings.
The movements of the respective parts described are such that one stitch is formed
for every progressive movement of the feed-slide and rotary disc.
T represents the spool for the looper-thread, which passes, as shown, around the
tension T, through the guides tt, thence through an eye q' in the block Q, thence
through the eye of the take-up U, thence through another opening q² in block Qand
finally through the eye of the looper Q2. V is a spool which carries the cording
thread, said thread passing from its spool through an opening q3 in block Q and thence
upwardly through an opening w in the throat-plate W.
In conjunction with the foregoing described parts there are provided a cutter and
die for cutting the button-hole, said cutter and die being of the construction
and operating in the manner shown and described in the specification of
letters patent dated March 17th, 1885, No. 3465 and which need not, there-
fore, be herein particularly described. Instead, however, of using such patented
cutter and die we may, when operating in leather cut the button-holes before placing
the material in position to have such hole stitched. In such case we employ the
device shown in figure 11 for the purpose of assisting the location of the fabric in its
proper position. Such device consists of a block 1, which is in plan of the shape and
size of the button-hole, and normally occupies a position in a recess 2 in the bed-
plate directly below the position of the button-hole in the fabric when the latter is
placed in the clamp before said clamp is moved with the slide into position for stitching.
The clamp is carried on the rotary disc and the latter moves with the slide, said
slide being drawn partly out, as shown in figure 11, when locating an already cut
button-hole. This block 1 is carried upon a stem 3 which fits and has liberty of
vertical movement in an opening 4 in the bed-piece B. Said stem has at its lower
end a shoulder or head 5 and between this latter and the bed-piece B a spiral spring 6
encircles the stem 3. The tendency of this spring is to press the stem 3 down and
hold the block 1 in the recess 2 below the plane of the cloth-plate A. A curved arm 7
which is pivoted at 8 to lugs b b depending from the bed-piece B has its outer
extremity come just below the lower end of stem 3. A lever 9, which is pivoted at
10 to one of the lugs ✗ of the sewing machine table, carries on the outer extremity
of its short arm an anti-friction roller 11 which bears against the under side of arm 7,
the long arm 12 of said lever depending in such manner that it can readily be moved
by the operator's pressing her knee laterally against it, such lateral movement
elevating the block I above the upper surface of the cloth-plate. The button-hole to
be stitched is now slipped over the block 1 and the machine clamp duly turned down.
The block 1 is then permitted to descend into the recess, the operator relieving the
lever arm 12 of pressure. The spiral spring 6 aids the descent of the block, a
retracting spring 13 between the lever 9 and leg X acting to restore the lever to its
normal position. A stud or pin 14 on leg X limits the retractile movement of lever 9.
It may be observed that when the bed-piece B is raised on its hinges or thrown back
on the sewing machine table in the usual manner when oiling &c. it will not carry
with it the lever 9, the latter being pivoted to the table leg X and not fastened to the
arm 7, although impinging against the latter.
To graduate the width of the stitch or distance from the edge of the button-hole
at which the needle enters the fabric the needle-bar C¹, figure 11, is arranged to slide
vertically in two boxes or bearings cc, which are fitted in the forks C², figure 13, of
the head of the machine. The openings in these boxes in which the needle-bar
fits and moves are eccentric to the longitudinal vertical axes of said boxes, so that by
turning the latter around in the forks C2 the plane of movement of the needle-bar
will be altered or said bar moved to one side or another, so as to cause the needle to
enter the fabric being stitched at a greater or at a less distance from the edge of the
button-hole. To facilitate this adjustment the boxes c c should be formed with milled
heads c¹ c¹, which should be provided each with a scale on their upper sides to register
with marks on the forks C2 C3, so that both boxes may be moved uniformly in order
to keep the needle-bar vertical and truly aligned with the openings in the boxes c c.

page_text: To hold the bearings in any adjusted position they are formed with adjusting holes c³,
to any one of which is entered a set screw c* which passes through an opening in the
machine-head.
To adapt the machine to sew button-holes with various sizes of eyes the guide E
is provided with detachable shoes et et which have formed on them the projection e²
and the depression e opposed thereto. By varying the sizes and shapes of these
projections and depressions on different shoes, the latter being interchangeable, button-
holes having eyes of various sizes and shapes may be stitched on the same machine.
These interchangeable shoes are fastened in position by screws e which pass into the
bed-piece of the machine.
In operation the fabric is placed in position on the feed-slide, the clamp turned
down thereon, and the spreader which is usually provided with such clamp caused to
distend the button-hole, the latter being cut either before the fabric is placed on the
feed-slide or afterwards, as may be desired. The fabric being clamped and the hole
spread, the feed-slide is moved in position to bring the clamp below the needle and
the machine is started by rotating the main shaft. The rotation of the said shaft c
communicates, through the medium of the intermediate parts described, a progressive
intermittent movement to the feed-slide, a stitch being formed in such fabric and
over the edge of the button-hole between every impulse or step of said feed-slide.
When or after one straight side of the button-hole is stitched the feed-slide has
advanced so far that the roller or pin d² meets the projection e2 in the guide E. The
movement being continued, the pin d² and its roller move along the forward or
opposing side of said projection, which causes the feed-slide to swing or travel
obliquely, and while it is so travelling the first quarter of the eye of the button-hole
is stitched. By the time the pin d2 and its roller reach the point or apex of the
projection e² the flange G¹ meets and pushes against the collar o' moving the rod O
lengthwise. This, as already described, brings the feed-slide to a state of rest or
arrests its progressive movement by moving the pawl out of engagement with
ratchet i. The disc G is now caused to make a half rotation, carrying with it the
fabric clamped thereon, during which time, the needle and looper continuing their
operation, the second and third quarters of the eye of the button-hole are stitched.
As soon as the disc has completed its half rotation and arrived at the position shown
in figure 1 the flange G on said disc clears the collar o'. The spring o² now moves
back rod O to its normal position, as seen in figures 3 and 4, and restores the pawl ²
to engagement with the ratchet i, whereupon the feed-slide resumes its onward march.
In such onward march it is first swung obliquely while the pin d² with its roller is
travelling down the incline on the inner side of projection e², during which period the
fourth quarter of the eye is stitched, and it then travels straight ahead, during which
straight travel the second straight side of the button-hole is stitched. The clamp
being then raised the fabric is removed therefrom. The latch h¹ is now released from
engagement with the stud h² and the rack H thrown back out of engagement with
the pinion i. The feed-slide is then moved back manually to its normal position, the
disc G being also rotated backwardly for a half revolution when the slide has been
moved half-way back, that is, when the stud w¹ through which the looper ascends is in
the eye of the button-hole slot in said disc. The parts are then in position to stitch
another button-hole.
Our improvements further relate to clutches and stop-motions, which are particularly
designed and adapted for use with the button-hole sewing-machines above described.
We shall first describe the general construction of this part of our invention and
afterwards describe it in conjunction with a button-hole sewing-machine.
Referring to sheet 7 of the accompanying drawing, figure 1 is a side elevation of
clutch, the members being in engagement and figure 2 is a side elevation of clutch
the members being disengaged and a diagram of a shifter being shown in dotted
lines in both figures. Figure 3 is an end elevation of one of the members and the
shifter, with shaft in section. Figure 4 is a vertical detail section of fast pulley or
member, showing the attached spring-arm by which engagement with the loose
pulley or member is effected. Figure 5 is an end elevation of clutch, including

page_text: shifter, and figure 6 is a side or front elevation of same. Figure 7 is a detail elevation
partly in section. Figure 8 is an inner end elevation of modified form of fast clutch-
member having two arms to secure a stoppage or starting on half revolution of shaft.
In sheet 7 of the accompanying drawing, A designates a shaft on which is mounted
a loose member or disc B. Said member or disc is formed with a shoulder or projec-
tion b on its inner face or side. C is a member or disc fast on the shaft A. Neither
of the members or discs B or C is intended to move lengthwise on the shaft but both
keep the same distance apart from each other whether clutched or disengaged.
D is an arm pivoted at d in a recess c in the clutch-member or disc C, its outer end
terminating in a block or head d. Back of the arm D and in the recess c is a
spring E which tends to constantly press the upper end of the arm D or its head d¹
towards the disc or member B and which, when unrestrained, holds said head d² as
far projected as shown in figures 1 and 4, that is, in the path of rotation of the
shoulder b. The arm D may be pushed back or vibrated into the recess c until the
block or head d' occupies the position shown in figure 2, where it is clear of
the shoulder b.
the recess c.
Any suitable shifter may be employed for the purpose of retiring the arm D into
For example, a wedge shaped or beveled-sided arm F, shown in dotted
lines in figures 1 and 2, may be used. I prefer, however, to use a lever H, as shown
in figures 5 and 6, which is fulcrumed on a shaft h and has at one end a link H' or
other means of connection with a cam or other mechanism whereby it can be rocked
on its fulcrum, so as to bring its other end 2 into the path of rotation of the head d¹ of
the arm D and out of said path. Said shifter is beveled as shown at h³ so that when
the head d' meets it said head rides or moves on an incline. When said shifter is
moved out of contact with the head d¹, the arm D is moved by the spring E towards
the member B and as soon as the shoulder b on the latter meets said arm the clutching
of the members is effected and the shaft A started.
The friction produced by the sliding of the head d on the beveled side of the shifter
causes the shaft A to be stopped gradually and without sudden shock.
It will be noted that the head d¹ projects radially beyond the outer edge of the
face c¹ of the disc or member C, the arm D being of greater radius than disc or
member B. Hence the shifter can be moved into the path of rotation of the outer
extremity of said head d¹ without having said shifter contact with the shoulder b,
and the head d', riding or sliding on the beveled side of said shifter, will be retired
into the recess c, thus providing a disengagement or unclutching of the clutch
members.
To prevent rebound of the member C after an unclutching movement of the shifter,
the arm D is formed with a beveled notch d² and shoulder d³ which engage with a
shoulder 4 on the shifter, thereby securely holding said member C, and to prevent
sudden shock in clutching or when, after being released by the shifter, the head d¹
contacts with the shoulder b on member B, said member is formed or provided with
an incline b¹ on or against which the said head d¹ rides or presses before coming in
contact with said shoulder. The pressure of said head against said incline produces
friction which effects the gradual starting of member C and of the shaft A.
With but a single arm D the clutching action would be effected only once in a
revolution of shaft A. But, if it be desired to clutch in less than a revolution, two
spring-arms D D¹ (as shown in the modification in figure 8) or more than two may be
employed.
Instead of having a rocking or lever-shifter as shown in figures 5 and 6, a sliding
shifter I may be provided, as shown in figure 7.
In figure 1 of sheet 5 and in figures 2 to 10 inclusive of sheet 6 of the accompanying
drawing we have shown the hereinbefore described clutch and stop-motion as applied
to a sewing-machine with some additional improvements. In said drawing on sheets 5
and 6, figure 1 is a plan view of sewing-machine with our improvements applied
thereto, the needle-arm and needle operating lever being shown in cross-section.
Figure is a side elevation of sewing machine with our improvements applied
thereto, portions of the needle-bar, needle-arm and needle operating lever being

page_text: omitted. Figures 3 and 4 are transverse sections on line - of figure 3 showing
key elevated and figure 4 showing key depressed. Figure 5 is an elevation of pulley
with clutch-shoe. Figure 6 is an elevation of clutch-head with spring and block.
Figure 7 is a perspective of clutch-stopping arm or shifter. Figure 8 is a perspective
of clutch spring inverted. Figure 9 is a perspective of rock-arm shaft and elbow
lever. Figure 10 is a longitudinal section of rock-shaft and bearing with attached
parts.
This part of our invention has for its object to provide means which will produce
a stoppage of the operative parts of the machine, with the needle elevated, immediately
upon the completion of the stitching of a button-hole or sewing of any nature and by
means of which the starting of the machine may be effected.
Referring to figure 1 of sheet 5 and figures 2 to 10 inclusive of sheet 6 of the
accompanying drawing, A represents the bed-piece, B the cloth-plate or top-plate of
the machine, C the needle-arm and D the needle-bar of a sewing-machine which may
be of any usual or suitable construction. Said machine has any suitable stitch forming
mechanism to co-act with the needle and not necessary to be herein described, as the
same is not claimed as our invention.
E is the button-hole feed-slide of any suitable character, preferably of the kind and
operated in the manner hereinbefore described. Said feed-slide in operation is moved
towards the rear end of the machine, or that end on which is mounted the pulley F
whereby power is communicated to the machine, the movement of the feed-slide being
effected by means of a pinion e on the bed-piece A which engages with a rack e¹ on
said slide and receives motion from the main-shaft of the machine or in any other
suitable manner.
Said feed-slide has an extension or arm e² provided for the purpose of "knocking
off" or bringing the stop-motion into operation when the feed-slide has attained the
limit of its movement and the last side of the button-hole has been stitched. Said
extension is adjustable longitudinally, having a slot e³ and set-screw e for that
purpose.
Gis a rock-shaft mounted on a bearing H sustained on the cloth-plate or top-plate
of the machine to one side of the base of the needle-arm C. Said rock-shaft is pro-
vided with a radially projecting aring springing from a collar G₁ fast on said shaft,
and has also an encircling spiral spring g¹, one end of which is made fast in the shaft,
the other end being fixed in a slot in the bearing H, which spring tends to rock
the shaft as hereinafter described.
I is an elbow-lever pivoted at i on the arm g, one arm resting on the cloth-plate B
and sustaining the rock-shaft G against pressure of spring g'. The other arm or
shoulder is pressed by a spring fastened by a screw to the arm g, forming a
joint like that of a pen-knife blade.
K is a lever or key pivoted at k on a standard or post K' on the cloth-plate B.
The inner end of the lever K is pivotally connected at with the arm g of the rock-
shaft G, so that when the outer end of said lever is depressed by finger pressure the
adjacent or connected end of said arm g will be elevated, the shaft G rocked back-
wardly against the influence of spring g' and the lever I elevated so that the lower end
of its arm will be in a plane above or will rest on a projection 6' on the cloth-plate B
on which projection such lower end normally rests.
L is a fast disc or head on the main-shaft L¹, on which also the loose pulley F is
mounted. Said head or disc and pulley are caused to be clutched so as to move
together by means of a radial spring or spring-arm M fastened at its inner end to the
head L by a screw and carrying a block m at its outer end, which engages with a
fixed shoe or shoulder N on the pulley F.
Normally the spring M stands out, except at its fastened end, from the head L,
but there is a radial recess in the side of said head into which it may be forced.
When said spring so stands out the block m is in the path of rotation of the shoe or
shoulder N on pulley F and is engaged or pushed by the latter, causing the head L to
be clutched and to turn with the loose pulley F, thereby moving shaft L' and com-
municating motion to the stitch-forming mechanism of the machine. This results in

page_text: a longitudinal movement of the feed-slide E, as the pinion eis rotated from said main shaft,
which movement continues until the arm or extension e² meets and trips the lever I
by striking against its arm, pushing said lever over an opening 62 in the projection 6',
whereupon the spring g' rocks the shaft G, the lower end of said arm I descending
into said opening as shown in figure 3. Ó is another arm projecting from a collar
fast on shaft G, said arm having a beveled side o and a notch or recess o¹. When the
shaft G rocks, as the end of the lever descends into opening 62, the outer end of
arm O is brought thereby into the path of rotation of the block m on spring M. As
the side of arm O is beveled, the block m slides upon it, whereby the said block is
moved laterally into recess and released from engagement with the shoe or
shoulder N, thus unclutching the head L and pulley F, the arm O acting as a
shifter.
The lateral movement of block m is imparted to its spring M and both recede into
recess in head L until said block reaches the inner extremity of the arm O when an
opposite lateral movement takes place and a shoulder m¹ of said block enters the recess o¹
in said arm.
At this time the needle-bar is elevated and the needle out of the cloth or
fabric being stitched, and the stitch forming mechanism stopping instantly at this
point.
To start the machine again the outer end of lever K is depressed, rocking shaft G
backwardly against the pressure of spring g', whereupon the arm O is raised out of
contact with block m and the latter, impelled by its spring M, moves laterally into
the path of rotation of shoe N, causing head L and pulley F to be clutched as already
described. When the shaft G is rocked backwardly the lower end of lever I is raised
out of opening 62 and, owing to the pressure of spring 1', said lever is restored to the
position it occupied before being tripped or tilted, that is it rests on projection 6' and
holds shaft G against being rocked by spring g'.
Arranged as above described the lever K would naturally be manipulated by the
right hand of the operator, but as under some circumstances, it would probably be
more convenient to operate it with the left hand, the right hand holding the goods,
the attachment shown in dotted lines in figure 1 and in full lines in figure 3 may be
provided. Such attachment consists essentially of a spring rod P located beneath the
cloth-plate in suitable bearings and adapted to be moved longitudinally in one direc-
tion, namely, towards the right or inwardly, by the left hand of the operator pressing
against its outwardly projecting head or end pand to be moved in the opposite direction
by the action of an encircling spiral spring pl located between a pin p² fastened in the
rod P and a bearing p³. Said rod carries at its inner end a beveled head or wedge p*
adapted and designed to enter a slot q in a post Q depending from the key or
lever K and passing through an opening in the cloth-plate or bed-piece. When the
rod P is moved inwardly or to the right its beveled head or wedge entering the slot
produces a depression of the outer end of lever K with the result already described
due to such depression, namely, the starting of the machine by rocking shaft G and
raising arm out of the path of rotation of and engagement with the spring M,
allowing the clutching action to be effected. When said rod P is released or relieved
from pressure of the operator the spring p' moves it outwardly to its normal
condition.
The construction shown and described prevents sudden jar or abrut stoppage of the
machine by reason of the fact that when the spring-block m meets the end of the arm P
and slides on the inclined face of the latter a friction is produced which gradually
lessens the speed of head L, a complete stoppage being effected only when block m
enters recess o¹. .
The provision of the recess o¹ prevents rebound of the head L, as, if it were not
necessary to guard against such rebound, the recess o¹ might be dispensed with and
a complete stop be made by allowing the spring-block m to strike against the shoulder
or flattened part o² of collar O¹.
By adjusting the extension or arm e² on the slide E the time when a stoppage is
effected may be regulated at will, and such adjustment is desirable for different
purposes, as, for adapting the device to button-holes of different lengths.

page_text: Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what we claim is :-
1. In a button-hole sewing-machine feed-slide, comprising a sliding plate carrying
a rotary disc having a flange or annular rib G¹, the combination with said plate and
flanged disc of ratchet ¹, pawl 2 and intermediate connecting mechanism whereby
the pawl is intermittently disengaged from the ratchet, substantially as shown and
described.
2. In a button-hole sewing-machine feed-mechanism the combination with feed-
slide D having straight rack H and rotary disc G having flange G¹ of ratchet i¹, pawl i²,
lever P and rod O, said parts being arranged substantially as described, whereby a
rotary movement of said disc will produce a longitudinal movement of said rod which
will throw said pawl out of engagement with said ratchet substantially as shown and
described.
3. In a button-hole sewing-machine feed-mechanism the combination with a feed-
slide carrying a rotary disc, said slide having a straight rack H and said disc having
a segmental or annular rack g and a flange G¹, of pinion i, ratchet i¹, pawl having
pin, lever N having tooth n², lever P and rod O having collar or stud o and spring o²,
said rod O and lever P being connected and the latter operating on the pawl which
engages with said ratchet, whereby the ratchet receives motion from the pawl and
communicates it to the pinion to move the rack and feed-slide, said pawl being moved
out of engagement with said ratchet when the disc-flange comes in contact with the
collar or stud or rod O and moves the latter and lever P, the toothed lever N then
imparting motion to the rotary disc, substantially as shown and described.
4. The combination with feed-slide D, having straight rack H and rotary disc G
having segmental or annular rack g and flange G¹, of pawl 22, ratchet ¹, pinion i, rod O
having collar or stud o¹ and retracting spring o², lever P and lever N having tooth n
engaging with said rack 9, said pawl having a stud on its tail-piece against which said
lever impinges, and said spring operating to restore the engagement of said pawl and
ratchet when the disc-flange moves clear of the collar or stud o¹ on said rod, as set
forth.
5. In a button-hole sewing-machine the combination with the guide-plate E of the
detachable interchangeable shoes et having respectively a projection and a depression,
substantially as set forth.
6. In a button-hole sewing-machine the combination with the needle-bar of two
eccentric boxes or bearings in the head or needle-arm, by the adjustment of which the
width of the stitch may be varied, substantially as shown and described.
7. In a button-hole sewing-machine the combination with the block Q having
curvilinear groove 9, of looper-carrier Q₁, lever R and joint S composed of pins,
sleeve s¹, with ball or bulb s² and pin s having socket in its heads, substantially as
shown and described, whereby said lever reciprocating in a horizonial plane transmits
a curvilinear movement in a vertical plane to said looper-carrier substantially as set
forth.
8. In a button-hole sewing-machine the combination with the feed-slide and stitch-
forming mechanisni of means for locating a cut button-hole in position, said means
consisting of block 1, stem 3, having head 5 and spring 6, arm 7 and lever 9, said
parts being constructed and combined for operation substantially as set forth.
9. The combination with the bed-piece, clamp and stitch-forming mechanism of a
sewing-machine, of a device for locating already cut botton-holes accurately in such
clamp for the action of the stitch-forming mechanism, such device consisting essentially
of a movable button-hole block 1 fitted in a recess in the bed-piece and having
mechanism connected therewith and located below the bed-piece substantially as
described, for elevating it into position by leg-motion to receive and locate a button-
hole, substantially as shown and described.
10. The combination with an organized sewing-machine of a device or apparatus for
locating an already cut button-hole with reference to the stitching mechanism, said
device comprising a block constructed and adapted to enter an already-cut botton-hole,

page_text: said block being fitted and normally resting in a recess in the bed-piece or below the
cloth-plate of the machine, and a lever for elevating said block so as to cause it to
project above the cloth-plate, substantially as shown and described.
11. The combination with the bed-piece and stitch-forming mechanism of a sewing-
machine, having a recess or slot, of a device for locating an already-cut button-hole,
said device comprising a block constructed and adapted to enter an already-cut button-
hole, which block fits in said recess or slot in the bed-piece and is provided with lever
mechanism for producing its projection above the plane of the surface of the bed-
piece and its automatic retirement or descent in the recess, substantially as shown
and described.
12 The combination with the stitch-forming mechanism of a sewing-machine and
a button-hole feed-slide E, of the clutch and stop-motion devices shown and described
and consisting of a rock-shaft G mounted in a bearing H and having arm g and
spring g', levers I, and K, head L having groove l, spring or arm M with block m and
pulley F with shoe or shoulder N, substantially as shown and described.
13. The combination with the stitch-forming mechanism of a sewing-machine and
a stop-motion at one end of the machine, of a rod or connection P for operating
said lever from the opposite end of the machine, substantially as shown and described.
14. The combination with the stitch-forming mechanism of a sewing-machine and
a stop-motion thereon, of a slide or movable part E and an adjustable extension or
arme thereon, substantially as shown and described.
15. The combination with the stitch-forming mechanism of a sewing-machine and
a side or moving part E, of a clutch on the shaft of said machine and intermediate
mechanism for operating said clutch, such intermediate mechanism consisting of a
rock-shaft G, having an arm and a spring g', levers I and K and arm or shifter O,
substantially as shown and described.
Dated this 3rd day of Santambar Å D 1886
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
45, Southampton Buildings, London, W.C.,
Agents for the Applicants.