Improvements in Sewing Machinery.
Year: 1892

page_text: Date of Application, 13th Dec., 1892
Complete Specification Left, 26th Apr., 1893-Accepted, 19th Aug., 1893
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Sewing Machinery.
I JOHN REECE of Longwood in the County of Norfolk and State of
Massachusetts, United States of America, Manufacturer of Sewing Machines
do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
―
This invention has for its object to improve and simplify that class of sewing
machines particularly adapted for sewing button holes wherein the stitch-forining
mechanism is rotated partially about a vertical axis during the stitching of the eye
of the button-bole, the stitch forming mechanism and work-holding clamp at other
times having relative movements in a horizontal plane whereby the stitching is
made along the sides of the button-hole.
The machine herein to be described has button-hole cutting mechanism and
devices for automatically actuating the same whereby the material in the clamp is
cut while clamped and preparatory to stitching the button-hole.
The machine also has devices whereby the work-holding clamp and the said
cutting mechanism are put automatically into and out of operative position with
relation each to the other at the proper times, and the machine is also adapted to
make a series of long stitches for barring and thus completing the small end of the
button-hole.
In the machine herein shown, the change in relative positions of the stitch-
forming mechanism and work-holding clamp is effected by or through rotating
cams, and it is a matter of great importance to so construct the actuating
mechanism for the said cams that they may be rotated with the least expenditure
of power, so that wear of parts, and lost motion shall be reduced to a minimum.
In accordance with this invention, the cams for controlling the relative positions
of the stitch-forming mechanism and the work-holding clamp, and also the relative
positions of the work-holding clamp and button-hole cutting mechanism are
positively actuated by or through a worm gear and worm, the latter being on
shaft, the rotation of the worm stopping automatically after the button hole has
been completed, its motion being started by or through the action of closing the
work-holding clamp upon the work.
a
In the machine herein to be described, the feed mechanism for controlling the
relative positions of the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding clamp, has,
moving in unison with it a cam device so constructed and devised that one portion
of it, at a predetermined time shall enable the rotation of the shaft which in the
present instance imparts motion to the stitch-forming mechanism to be started, the
other portion, the stitch-forming mechanism having performed its functions on
the button-hole, serving to effect the stopping of the rotation of said shaft.
The worm referred to has imparted to it variable or intermitting movement, and
to effect this I have devised peculiar novel devices.
The devices referred to consist essentially in a lever having a circular hub
provided with a slot and embracing the main shaft of the machine, a rotating
pulley having a crank pin, a slotted plate having a circular projection and having a
hole for the reception of the said crank pin, and a connecting rod having a strap
to embrace the said circular projection, the said connecting rod co-operating with
and imparting motion to a pawl-device to effect the intermitting rotation of the
worm shaft whenever the center of the circular hub, carried by the lever referred
to, is not concentric with the centre of rotation of the main or cam shaft.
I have provided means for automatically moving this lever into such position
that the said circular slotted hub shall be concentric with the said main shaft
about as the stitching of a button-hole is completed, and to further utilize this

page_text: lever and simplify the parts, I have made it as the carrier for the parts of the
regulating device instrumental in determining the spacing of the stitches about the
button-hole.
Herein the cam instrumental in changing the relative positions of the stitch-
forming mechanism and the work-holding clamp, has combined and running in
unison with it, a depth stitch cam, and this latter cam has combined with it and
with the lever which reciprocates the slide block instrumental in making the depth
stitch, a regulating device shown as a screw readily accessible, the said regulating
device by its movement effecting the length of the depth stitch.
My invention consists in the use in a sewing machine for stitching button-holes,
of a stitch frame containing stitch forming devices having periodic rotation
co-operating with a clamp-frame having a work-holding clamp connected to it; a
cam device with intermediate connections between said cam and said stitch-forming
devices to periodically rotate said stitch forming devices and to effect the relative
change of position of said stitch-frame and clamp-frame and a
operatively connected with said cam device; and a worm and devices to
automatically operate said worm.
worm wheel
Also the use in a button-hole stitching machine, of a stitch-frame, containing
stitch-forming devices comprehending a reciprocating eye-pointed needle, and
complemental stitch-forming mechanism each supported at opposite sides of the
work-holding clamp and adapted to be turned in unison about coincident centres of
motion; a clamp-frame and attached work-holding clamp; a worm, a worm wheel
actuated thereby, and devices intermediate said worm wheel and stitch-forming
mechanism to both rotate the said stitch-forming mechanism and to effect the
relative change of motion between said stitch-frame and clamp-frame whereby the
said stitch-forming mechanism is adapted to stitch the two straight sides and
the round eye of a button-hole.
Also in the use in a button-hole stitching machine, of stitch-forming devices;
carrying blocks therefor adapted to be turned about a centre; supports for said
blocks; a cam device; connections between it and the said blocks to turn the same
about a centre coincident with the longitudinal centre of the needle-bar, a worm
wheel operatively connected to said cam device, and a worm to rotate said worm
wheel and cam device, to operate. Also in the use in a button-hole stitching
machine, stitch-forming devices having periodic rotation; a cam device, and suitable
intermediate connecting mechanism between it and said stitch-forming devices for
periodically rotating the stitch-forming devices; a worm wheel operatively con-
nected with said cam device, a worm to engage said worm wheel; and devices to
rotate said worm intermittingly to operate.
Also in the use in a sewing machine of stitch-forming devices; a cam device, and
suitable intermediate connecting mechanism between it and said stitch-forming
devices for turning the latter; a worm wheel operatively connected with said cam
device, a worm to engage said worm wheel; a friction clutch and devices to actuate
it to effect the movement of said worm.
Also in the use in a sewing machine, of stitch-forming devices; a cam device,
and suitable intermediate connecting mechanism between it and said stitch-forming
devices for turning the latter; a worm wheel operatively connected with said cam
device, a worm to engage said worm wheel; a friction clutch, and worm
actuating devices having as operative elements thereof a link having a circular
projection, and a rod having a strap to embrace said projection, the said link
and rod imparting two movements to the said worm for each rotation of the
pulley carrying said link; a shaft; suitable devices set in motion thereby to
actuate said stitch-forming devices to make stitches, and a belt wheel to rotate said
shaft.
Also in the use in a sewing machine for button hole stitching, of stitch-forming
devices; oscillating blocks to support said stitch-forming devices; a cam device,
and suitable intermediate mechanism for turning said blocks and stitch-forming
devices during the operation of stitching the round part of the eye of a button-hole;

page_text: a worm wheel connected to said cam device;
worm engaging said worm wheel; a
length or spacing stitch lever having a circular hub provided with a slot; a slotted
link pivotally connected to said belt wheel and provided with a circular projection
or rim and having its slot entered by the hub of said stitch lever; a connecting rod
actuated by said link; devices between it and the said worm shaft to actuate it, and
means to actuate said slide lever, whereby, by change of position of the hub with
relation to the centre of rotation of said belt pulley, more or less throw may be
given to the said worm and worm wheel at each rotation of the said link.
Also the use in a sewing machine, of stitch forming mechanism; a work-clamp
and actuating devices co-operating therewith and including two cams to effect a
combined longitudinal and lateral movement between said stitch-forming mechanism
and work-clamp in the stitching of an eyed button-hole; a worm wheel operatively
connected with said actuating devices; a worm to engage said worm wheel; and
devices to rotate said worm.
Also in the use in a sewing machine for cutting and stitching button-holes, of a
stitch-frame; a cutting mechanisın; a work-holding clamp; a series of cams for
changing the relative positions of said stitch frame cutting mechanism, and the said
clamp-frame; and a cam for causing the said cutting mechanism to cut the material
held in said work-holding clamp; a worm wheel; a worm; and actuating devices
for the latter, whereby the said worin is made to actuate said cams.
Also in the use in an over-edge stitching mechanism, a needle, a looper having a
beak and a point; a throat plate, and a loop controller; a device to actuate said
looper; and a cam device to actuate said loop controller, whereby the loop taken
by the part of the looper at one descent of the needle is held spread by said part
and said loop controller while another loop is put through it, the beak of the looper
entering this second loop and drawing it below the material, said second loop during
the reverse movement of the looper to engage by its point a third loop of needle
thread, being engaged by the loop controller to prevent the point of the looper
again catching the loop then on it and previously entered by the beak of the
looper.
Also in the use in a sewing machine, of a driving wheel, a worm; a worm wheel;
a worm shaft, its worm, clutch mechanism on the worm shaft; a link pivoted to the
driving pulley having a slotted hub; a link for actuating the said clutch mechanism,
and a stitch regulating lever having a slotted hub, and devices to automatically
turn said lever.
DL 101 1
ho 1002
WM. BROOKES & SON,
55 & 56, Chancery Lane, London, Agents for the Applicant.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Sewing Machinery.
JOHN REECE of Longwood, in the County of Norfolk and State of Massachusetts
United States of America Manufacturer of Sewing Machines, do hereby declare
the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This invention has for its object to improve and simplify that class of button-hole
sewing machines wherein the stitch-forming mechanism is rotated partially about
a vertical axis during the stitching of the eye of the button-hole, the stitch forming
mechanism and work holding clamp at other times having relative movements in a
horizontal plane whereby the stitching is made along the sides of the button-hole.
The machine herein to be described has button-hole cutting mechanism and
devices for automatically actuating the same whereby the material in the clamp is
cut while clamped and preparatory to stitching the button-hole.
The machine also has devices whereby the work-holding clamp and the said
cutting mechanism are put automatically into and out of operative position with

page_text: relation each to the other at the proper times, and the machine is also adapted to
make a series of long stitches for barring and thus completing the small end of the
button-hole.
In the machine herein shewn, the change in relative positions of the stitch-
forming mechanism and work-holding clamp is effected by or through rotating
cams, and it is a matter of great importance to so construct the actuating mechanism
for the said cams that they may be rotated with the least expenditure of power, so
that wear of parts, and lost motion shall be reduced to a minimum.
In accordance with this invention, the cams for controlling the relative positions
of the stitch-forming mechanism and the work-holding clamp, and also the relative
positions of the work-holding clamp and button-hole cutting mechanism are
positively actuated by or through a worm gear and worm, the latter being on
a shaft, the rotation of the worm stopping automatically after the button-hole has
been completed, its motion being started by or through the action of closing the
work-holding clamp upon the work.
In the machine herein to be described, the feed mechanism for controlling the
relative positions of the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding clamp, has,
moving in unison with it a cam device so constructed and devised that one portion
of it, at a predetermined time shall enable the rotation of the shaft which in the
present instance imparts motion to the stitch-forming mechanism to be started, the
other portion, the stitch-forming mechanism having performed its functions on
the button hole, serving to effect the stopping of the rotation of said shaft.
The worm referred to has imparted to it variable or intermitting movement, and
to effect this I have devised peculiar novel devices.
The devices referred to consist essentially in a lever having a circular hub
provided with a slot and embracing the main shaft of the machine, a rotating
pulley having a crank pin, a slotted plate having a circular projection and having a
hole for the reception of the said crank pin, and a connecting rod having a strap to
embrace the said circular projection, the said connecting rod co-operating with and
imparting motion to a pawl device to effect the intermitting rotation of the worm
shaft whenever the centre of the circular hub, carried by the lever referred to, is
not concentric with the centre of rotation of the main or cam shaft.
I have provided means for automatically moving this lever into such position
that the said circular slotted hub shall be concentric with the said main shaft about
as the stitching of a button-hole is completed, and to further utilize this lever and
simplify the parts, I have made it as the carrier for the parts of the regulating
device instrumental in determining the spacing of the stitches about the button-
hole.
Herein the cam instrumental in changing the relative positions of the stitch-
forming mechanism and the work-holding clamp, has combined and running in
unison with it, a depth stitch cam, and this latter cam has combined with it and
with the lever which reciprocates the slide block instrumental in making the depth
stitch, a regulating device shewn as a screw readily accessible, the said regulating
device by its movement effecting the length of the depth stitch.
My invention consists in the use in a sewing machine for stitching button-holes,
of the following instrumentalities, viz.; A stitch frame, stitch-forming devices
having periodic rotation; a clamp-frame having a work-holding clamp connected
to it; a cam device; intermediate connections between said cam and said stitch
forming devices to periodically rotate said stitch-forming devices and to effect the
relative change of position of said stitch-frame and clamp-frame; a worm wheel
operatively connected with said cam device; a worm; and devices to automatically
operate said worm, substantially as will be described.
Also in the use in a button-hole stitching machine, of the following
instrumentalities, viz. ;-A stitch-frame, containing stitch-forming devices com-
prehending a reciprocating eye pointed needle, and complemental stitch-forming
mechanism each supported at opposite sides of the work-holding clamp and adapted
to be turned in unison about coincident centers of motion; a clamp-frame and

page_text: attached work-holding clamp; a worm, a worm wheel actuated thereby, and devices
intermediate said worm wheel and stitch forming mechanism to both rotate the said
stitch-forming mechanism and to effect the relative change of motion between said
stitch-frame and clamp-frame whereby the said stitch-forming mechanism is
adapted to stitch the two straight sides and the round eye of a button-hole,
substantially as will be described.
Also in the use in a button-hole stitching machine, of the following
instrumentalities, viz. ;-Stitch forming devices; carrying blocks therefor adapted
to be turned about a center; supports for said blocks; a cam device; connections
between it and the said blocks to turn the same about a center coincident with the
longitudinal center of the needle-bar, a worm wheel operatively connected to said
cani device, and a worm to rotate said worm wheel and cam device, to operate,
substantially as will be described.
Also in the use in a button-hole stitching machine, of the following
instrumentalities, viz. ;-Stitch-forming devices having periodic rotation; a cam
device, and suitable intermediate connecting mechanism between it and said
stitch-forming devices for periodically rotating the stitch-forming devices; a worm
wheel operatively connected with said cam device, a worm to engage said worm
wheel; and devices to rotate said worm intermittingly to operate, substantially as
will be described.
Also in the use in a sewing machine, of the following instrumentalities, viz. ;-
Stitch-forming devices; a cam device, and suitable intermediate connecting
mechanism between it and said stitch-forming devices for turning the latter; a
worm wheel operatively connected with said cam device, a worm to engage said
worm wheel; a friction clutch and devices to actuate it to effect the movement of
said worm, substantially as will be described.
Also in the use in a sewing machine, of the following instrumentalities, viz. ;-
Stitch-forming devices; a cam device, and suitable intermediate connecting
mechanism between it and said stitch-forming devices for turving the latter; a
worm wheel operatively connected with said cam device, a worm to engage said
worm wheel; a friction clutch, and worm actuating devices having as operative
elements thereof a link having a circular projection, and a rod having a strap to
embrace said projection, the said link and rod imparting two movements to the said
worm for each rotation of the pulley carrying said link; a shaft; suitable devices
set in motion thereby to actuate said stitch-forming devices to make stitches, and a
belt wheel to rotate said shaft, substantially as will be described.
Also in the use in a sewing machine for button-hole stitching, of the following
instrumentalities, viz. ;-Stitch forming devices; oscillating blocks to support said
stitch-forming devices; a cam device, and suitable intermediate mechanism for
turning said blocks and stitch-forming devices during the operation of stitching the
round part of the eye of a button-hole; a worm wheel connected to said cam
device; a
worm engaging said worm wheel; a length or spacing stitch lever
having a circular hub provided with a slot; a slotted link pivotally connected to
said belt wheel and provided with a circular projection or rim and having its slot
entered by the hub of said stitch lever; a connecting rod actuated by said link;
devices between it and the said worm shaft to actuate it, and means to actuate said
slide lever, whereby, by change of position of the hub with relation to the center
of rotation of said belt pulley, more or less throw may be given to the said worm
and worm wheel at each rotation of the said link, substantially as will be
described.
Also the use in a sewing machine, of the following instrumentalities, viz. ;—
Stitch-forming mechanism; a work-clamp and actuating devices co-operating
therewith and including two cams to effect a combined longitudinal and lateral
movement between said stitch-forming mechanism and work-clamp in the stitching
of an eyed button-hole; a worm wheel operatively connected with said actuating
devices; a worm to engage said worm wheel; and devices to rotate said worm,
substantially as will be described.

page_text: Also in the use in a sewing machine for cutting and stitching button-holes, of the
following instrumentalities, viz. ;-A stitch-frame; a cutting mechanism; a work-
holding clamp; a series of cams for changing the relative positions of said stitch
frame cutting mechanism, and the said clamp-frame; and a cam for causing the
said cutting mechanism to cut the material held in said work-holding clamp; a
worm wheel; a worm; and actuating devices for the latter, whereby the said
worm is made to actuate said cams, substantially as will be described.
Also in the use in an over-edge stitching mechanism, a needle, a looper having a
beak and a point; a throat plate, and a loop controller, a device to actuate said
looper and a cain device to actuate the said loop controller whereby the loop taken by
the part of the looper at one descent of the needle is held spread by said part and
said loop controller while another loop is put through it, the beak of the looper
entering this second loop and drawing it below the material, said second loop
during the reverse movement of the looper to engage by its point a third loop of
needle thread, being engaged by the loop controller to prevent the point of the
looper again catching the loop then on it and previously entered by the beak of the
looper, substantially as will be described.
Also in the use in a sewing machine, of a driving wheel; a worn wheel; a
worm shaft, its worm; clutch mechanisin on the worm shaft; a link pivoted to the
driving pulley having a slotted hub; and a link for actuating the said clutch
mechanism, and a stitch regulating lever having a slotted hub, and devices to
antomatically turn said lever as and for the purposes to be described.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.
Figure 1 in side elevation represents a buttonhole stitching and cutting machine
embodying my invention; Fig. 2, an opposite side elevation partially broken out.
Fig. 3 is a view showing the framework and most of the parts below the bed in
longitudinal section, the parts above the bed being in elevation, the looper and its
co-operating parts shown in Fig. 2 being omitted; Fig. 4, a front end elevation, the
bed being in transverse section in the line of the throat-plate, the work-holding clamp
being, however, omitted;
Fig. 5, a detail showing the cam employed for changing the relative positions of
the stitch-forming mechanism and the work-holding clamp, and the devices for
rotating the said cam.
Fig. 6 is an outer side view of the belt or driving-wheel, it forming part of a
clutch mechanism.
Fig. 7 is a detail of the other member of the clutch co-operating therewith.
Fig. 8 is a detail showing the stitch-spacing lever and some of its co-operating
parts.
Fig. 9 is a detail showing the upper side of the cam-carrying worm-wheel. Fig. 10
is a detail showing the under side of the said worm-wheel.
Fig. 11 is a detail showing the inner side of the clutch-pulley and its attached
device, having the circular slotted hub, the strap at the upper end of the connecting-
rod being broken out.
Fig. 12 is an enlarged detail of the looper, its actuating devices, the throat, and
loop-controller.
Fig. 13 is a top or plan view of some of the parts shown in Fig. 12.
Fig. 14 is a detail of the friction feed device co-operating with and to operate the
worm-shaft intermittingly.
Figs. 14 and 14B show details of the friction-clamp device shown together
in Fig. 14.
Fig. 15 shows lever c¹0 detached.
Fig. 16 shows the loop-controller in perspective.
Fig. 17 shows the looper separately.
Fig. 18 is a sectional detail showing part of the shaft A* and the devices carried
by it instrumental in actuating the stitch-forming mechanism.

page_text: Fig. 19 is an enlarged detail of the needle-bar and some of the devices carried by
it to give to the needle its increased lateral movement..
Fig. 19 is a detail to be referred to in the line z.
Fig. 20 is a detail showing the throat-plate in top view.
17
The framework of the machine consists, chiefly, of two parts-viz., a stitching-
frame composed of an overhanging arm A and a cam-casing A', having a suitable
arm A, the other part of the framework, called for brevity the "clamp frame,"
being marked B, and as herein shown the frame B is sustained on legs B*. The
stitch-frame carries the stitch-forming mechanism, and the clamp-frame carries the
work-holding clamp, both of which will be described, the said frames being movable
one with relation to the other to enable the stitching to be carried on about the
edges of the buttonhole-slit in the material held in the clamp, and in the particular
form in which my invention is herein embodied I have shown the stitch-frame as
movable, while the clamp-frame is stationary; but the reverse of this condition may
exist and yet all the parts instrumental in forming the buttonhole will operate in
just the same manner.
The stitch-frame has a main shaft A', near the outer end of
which is fastened a hub A, carrying a pivoted dog A, by means of the pin 275
(see Fig. 7). This dog A is acted upon by a pulling-spring A', and is provided
with a toe A8 (see Fig. 7.) which enters a cam-groove A° (see Figs. 1 and 6) in a
belt-pulley A 10, loose on said shaft, the said pulley at its outer or grooved side
having a can-ring A", having a pin A" (see Figs. 6 and 11) extended through a
curved slot (shown by dotted lines Fig. 6) in the belt-pulley and acted upon by a
suitable spiral spring A¹ (see Fig. 11) laid into a pocket made in the rear side of
the belt pulley A1⁰ the tail A15 (see Fig. 7.) of the clutch-dog being acted upon and
held, as in Fig. 1. by a block or projection A¹ of an arm A" of a rock-shaft A18
having an arm A, provided with a screw a, which normally rests on the upper end
of a slide-pin a¹, extended down through the base of the frame A and through a
guide a (see Fig. 5.) said pin resting on a cam a at the face of the worm-
wheel A20. This cam-ring a² has a beveled portion a³, leading up on to a higher
portion a of said ring, and at a distance therefrom of about one hundred and
eighty degrees, more or less, according to the length of the buttonhole, the said
ring has an abrupt shoulder a' (see Fig. 9.). This ring through the pin a' actuates
the rock-shaft referred to to effect the release of the clutch-dog A so that its toe
may engage the shoulder a of the ring A12, and thus couple the loose and fixed
members of the clutch-pulley device, so that the main shaft will be rotated long
enough to complete the stitching of a buttonhole, which done the pin a¹ will pass off
the shoulder a and enable the spring a', fixed to a pin on the frame, see Fig. 4, and
to said lever see Fig. 1, to resume control of the rock shaft referred to and put its
block A in the path of rotation of the tail of the dog to thus uncouple the clutch
members and stop the action of the stitch-forming mechanism as soon as a button-
hole has been completed. It will be understood that the projection A³ when the
tail A is released from A is pulled strongly by the spring A' against the cam
face a of the loose cam ring A, the said ring travelling with the loose pulley, and
so long as the spring A holds the toe A8 firmly against a, A", in engagement
with A, will carry the dog A6 and rotate the shaft A, but the moment the tail A15
is acted upon to overcome spring A7, A8 retires from a and lets it with the belt
pulley A rotate, leaving shaft A* at rest. The spring A acts as a sort of cushion
to avoid shocks or blows when A³ and a arc coupled together. The main shaft
referred to has at its inner end a cam d³¹, which in the rotation of said shaft strikes
a roller or other stud d at the inner end of a lever 20, pivoted at d", the forward
end of said lever acting upon a spring-supported sleeve d's, provided at its lower end
with a zone-shaped projection d¹³, having a diagonal groove d, in which enters a
projection at the rear side of an auxiliary slide-block d, said slide-block having
pivoted on it loosely a swivel-block, in which slides the flattened lower end of the
needle-bar, said cam therefore effecting the lateral movements of the needle-
bar, the latter being supported at its upper end in a ball-like bearing. The sleeve d
is contained in a support d", slotted for the reception of the block d³ and provided

page_text: with teeth, as at A³, to be engaged and turned about a vertical centre when it is
desired to stitch about the eye of a buttonhole.
The lever and slide-block effect, the extent of the lateral thrust of the needle
and needle-bar in making the usual depth-stitch, and to vary the length of
the depth-stitch for the particular class of buttonhole being made I have pro-
vided said lever with an adjustable device ', shown as a screw inserted
into a threaded hole in said lever do, the inner end of said screw engaging or
co-operating with a slide-pin 6, extending through a hole in the part A of
the stitch-frame and resting on a cam 6, carried by the said worm-wheel.
The adjustment of the screw enables the effective stroke of the lever do to
be more or less, as required, for in practice the roller d30 is normally pressed
toward its actuating-cam 3 by a spring d24, contained in the zone-shaped bearing-
block 3, (see Fig. 19*,) and by turning the screw in more or less, so that its
inner end will contact sooner or later with the rod 6, the movement of the roller d³0
toward its actuating-cam will be arrested sooner or later, and thus vary the effective
stroke of the cam and the depth-stitch. I preferably employ with the screw ba
set-nut, and,, as shown, the said screw is readily accessible to the operator for
manipulation and adjustment through a hole 6" in the stitch-frame. (See Fig. 3.)
The main shaft has on it next to the cam da cam-disk c, provided (see Fig. 3)
with a cam-groove, which receives in it a roller or other stud at the upper end of a
link c', swing-jointed to a lever c², pivoted at 3 on a depending lug or stand attached
to the arm A* of the casing A₁ of the stitch-frame, the said arm also having a
bearing A 30, to be described.
The part A of the stitch-frame has a slot A3, (sce Fig. 5,) through which is
extended the rod A32, which connects the two sector-levers A3 A34, pivoted,
respectively, at 10 12 and having their sector-like ends engaging, respectively, the
gears A7 A8 for effecting the rotation of the needle-bar and looping mechanism, as
when the stitching is being effected about the round part of the eye of the
buttonhole, and for returning the said parts into their normal or starting position.
The sector-lever A at its inner end (see Fig. 2) has a stud A10, which enters the
cam-groove A in or moving in unison with the worm-wheel referred to.
The mechanism for partially rotating the needle-bar and looper-carrying block
or frame C is substantially the same as in my British Patent, No. 11962,
September 21st, 1886; but herein the looper d and loop-controller d² are quite
different.
Referring to Figs. 12 and 13, showing the looper-carrying frame detached, with
its parts, c represents an elbow-lever, the ball-like end cx of which is engaged by
the short arm of the lever c². The upper end of the lever c¹ has jointed to it a
link, the opposite end of which embraces a stud eat one side of the looper-
carrier c', pivoted on the said frame C. The lever c carries an adjustable stud c³,
which serves as the fulcrum for a cam-lever c¹º, having at its upper end a cam-
slot c¹², into which enters a pin c¹³ at the inner end of the loop-controller, the latter
having its pivot on the same stud or in line with the pivot of the looper-carrier.
The acting end of the loop-controller (see Fig. 13, where the same is shown enlarged)
has an angular finger or point 13, and the upwardly-extended arm of the loop-
controller is normally kept by a spring d³ up against a stop or shoulder d', (see
Fig. 13,) forming part of the frame C. The upper end of the frame C supports the
slotted throat do, having a gimp-hole d', the shank do of the throat entering a
groove in the block or frame C and being held in adjusted position therein by a suitable
set-screw. (See Fig. 4.) The looper d has a beak 2 and extended backwardly from
it a point 3. When the looper is in its normal backward position, as shown in Fig. 12,
a loop of needle-thread extending from the cloth is held one half by the thread-
controller and the other half by the looper, and the said loop is spread, so that as
the needle next descends over the edge to form a loop said needle will pass through
the said spread loop, and as the looper starts forward to the right in Fig. 12 it will
pass through the new loop of needle-thread far enough to enable said loop to pass
to the rear of the point 3 and enable the loop previously held spread by it and the

page_text: loop-controller to pass from the point 3, and as the looper is being moved in the
direction stated the said loop-controller is moved slightly to the left, viewing
Fig. 12, to thus put it into its loop-entering position. This is done by the action
of the lower end of the lever c10 against a stop 4, carried by a plate dio, connected
to the frame C by a screw d¹², (see Fig. 4,) the stop arresting the movement of the
lower end of said lever, so that its upper end, having the cam, may travel with the
lever c, but at a faster speed, so that the cam part of said lever c¹ will move
the loop-controller backwardly, or away from the shoulder d; but as soon as the.
point 5 of the cam for operating the thread-controller d² passes the stud c¹³ the
spring immediately assumes control of the loop-controller and the stud c¹³ enters
the notch or space 6, the loop-controller going nearly back to the said shoulder 4.
The loop-controller at the end of the movement stated is left with its point in
position to catch one side or half of the loop of needle-thread last entered and then
held by the looper, and in this position of the looper the needle, baving risen, is
again caused to descend.; but at this descent it penetrates the material for the
depth-stitch. Now as the said looper returns its point 3 enters the loop of needle-
thread just made through and below the material, and in its movement it takes the
said loop with it through the loop previously made through the cloth and yet held
by the shank of the looper and the loop-controller. In this way each depth-stitch
loop of needle-thread in the material is spread so that the loop formed near the edge
is passed through it, and said depth-loop is in turn drawn through each over-edge-
loop, thus making an edge pearl-stitch from one thread, it enveloping the usual cord
issuing from the throat.
The block or frame C has a second adjustable stop 9, against which the lower
end of the cam-lever strikes as the lever et is completing its backward movement,
the cam-lever in this latter movement causing the loop-controller to be returned
into its normal position against the shoulder d' and stand there and aid in holding
the depth-stitch loop spread for the descent of the thread through it, as stated of
the overedge-loop. The cam gives to the loop-controller two full strokes to each
full stroke of the looper. The lever D, pivoted at Dx, is slip-jointed to the needle-
bar D, having at its lower end an eye-pointed needle D². This needle-bar is
adapted to be reciprocated in an oscillating block d, having a gear A", and the
blocks A and C are adapted to be oscillated from the main shaft, as provided for
in my said application.
The stitch-frame, as shown, is adapted to slide and also to swing on ways e,
forming part of the clamp-frame B. The under side of the bed part of the clamp-
frame near the rear end thereof is provided with a groove e¹, in which slides a
block, entered by a pin e³, extended from an arm e' of a shaft e³, supported in a
bearing &, carried by the part A' of the stitch-frame, the said shaft having a second
arm e', provided with a pin e to enter a cam-groove e' at the under side (see Fig. 10)
of the worm-wheel, or a part moving in unison therewith, this cam and rock-shaft
serving to impart in the present instance to the stitch-frame the relative lateral
movement necessary between the stitch-frame and the clamp-frame. It will be
understood that the relative movement of the stitch-frame and clamp-frame is
derived from the rotating cam device A20, and the stitch-frame or the clamp-frame
may be anchored or restrained from longitudinal movement, and whichever is moved
the stitching devices will work just the same. The relative movement of the stitch-
frame and clamp-frame to insure the stitching along the sides of a buttonhole is
effected in this instance of my invention by or through the cam-groove (see Figs. 3
and 9) in the upper side of the worm-wheel A20 or a part moving in unison there-
with, said cam-groove being entered by a roller or other stud f¹, fixed with relation
to and depending from the clamp-frame, the upper end of said stud (see Fig. 3)
having a block f, which enters a groove f³ in the stitch-frame. The resultant
motion derived by the employment of the two cams e and finsures the stitching
along the straight sides and about the round end or eye of a button-hole; but when
stitching about the eye part the needle and looper of the stitch-forming mechanism
B

page_text: are partially rotated, as before stated. The two cams last referred to by or due to
their peculiar shape (shown in Figs. 9 and 10) serve, also, when the stitching is
taking place at the small end of the buttonhole to give to the stitch-frame such a
position with relation to the clamp-frame as to insure the formation of two or more
bar-stitches extended from depth-stitch to depth-stitch. To do this, the stitch-
frame is moved laterally to one side and there held while these bar-stitches are
being made; but to get the bar all the way across from depth-stitch to depth-
stitch outside it is necessary to give, and I have given, to the needle-bar an increased
lateral movement, this increase taking place as the pin 65 comes upon the lower
level of the cam 66.
The worm-wheel A20 has near its centre a cam g, which acts on a toe g¹ at the
rear end of a cutter-carrying lever g², pivoted at g³ and provided with a cutter 9,
adapted to form a slit by one cut, the said cutter co-operating with a cutter-bed 98,
attached to the arm Ax.
The cutter mechanism is carried by the stitch-frame and is substantially the same
as in my said Patent, No. 11962 September 21st 1886.
The clamp-frame carries a work-holding clamp for clamping the material, and
in practice the said clamp (but partially shown) is and may be the same as in my
said Patent.
To enable the worm-gear to give to the various cams described positive motions
with minimum expenditure of power and lost motion, I have provided a worm mi,
fast on the shaft m', having suitable bearings in the part A' of the stitch-frame.
This shaft at its outer end has fast on it a disk m², which, as shown best in Figs. 1
and 14, is embraced by a clutch-band m³, having its ends outwardly turned to form
lips, which enter a recess in an ear m₁ of a lever m³, having at its opposite end a
pin me, which enters a slot in one end of a lever m', pivoted at me, the said lever
having a stud-screw m, which is embraced by the lower end of a rod m³, said rod
at its upper end having a strap, which embraces a circular projection m¹² (see Figs. 8
and 11) of a slotted plate or link m¹³, having a pin m extended from one side
and entering a hole m¹ (see dotted lines, Fig. 6) in the inner side of the belt-
wheel A 10.
The stitch-frame has extended from it (see Figs. 1 and 4) a boss n, which is
bored through for the reception of part of the rock-shaft A18, and the outside of
this boss is turned true to receive (see Fig. 8) the hub of a stitch-controlling
lever n', having at its upper end a circular laterally-projecting hub n², having an
elongated slot to allow it to be swung in the slot n of the link m¹³. As the
belt-pulley A is rotated the link m¹³ is rotated, and with it the projection m¹², and
it will be understood that so long as the centre of motion of the belt-wheel is con-
centric with the centre of the hub n² just so long there will be no motion transmitted
to the rod mo, and consequently the lever for imparting movement to the worm
will not be actuated and the worm and worm-wheel will remain at rest; but as
soon as the centre of the hub n² is at all eccentric with relation to the centre of
rotation of the pulley A then the lever m' will be reciprocated, the extent of its
stroke being in proportion to the extent of eccentricity of the said hub n². It will
be understood, when the centre of the shaft A' is concentric with the centre of the
hub n, that the pin m¹, carried by the belt-pulley, fast on said shaft, and entering
the link m, provided with the eccentric m¹, will rotate said eccentric.in. a circle
coincident with the centre of rotation of the shaft A' and with the centre of said
hub; but if the lever n' is moved to place the centre of the hub n eccentric with
relation to the centre of the shaft Athen the link m¹³ will in its rotation: with the
belt pulley be slid on the hub n², and said link will be vibrated during its rotation,
so that in each complete revolution with the belt-pulley the eccentric carried by
the said link will be twice concentric and twice eccentric with relation to the centre
of the shaft A', and consequently four strokes-two up and two down-will be
imparted to the connecting-rod m¹0. The lever m is slotted at 22 (see Fig. 14) to
embrace the outer end of the worm shaft, and the said lever has a screw mito
J

page_text: limit the effective length of said slot. The screw m23 by abutting against the
worm-shaft forms a sort of fulcrum, so that as the lever m³ is moved in the direction
of the arrow n the part thereof embracing the lips of the spring-ring m³ moves the
said ring easily freely about the periphery of the said disk m2; but when the
direction of movement of said lever is reversed then it, acting on the said lips,
forces them together, thus clamping the ring m³ snugly on the said disk and causing
the rotation of the worm-shaft.
This invention is not limited to the particular devices actuated by the link m⁰ to
rotate the worm-shaft intermittingly, and I consider as within the scope of this
invention any usual suitable friction or ratchet mechanism. The employment of
the worm-wheel as an element of the positive mechanism for actuating the various
cams referred to necessitates very rapid short strokes for the worm-gear between
needle-thrusts, and hence the employment of the link m¹s described, by which it is
possible to get four strokes of the link m10 to one rotation of the main shaft or belt-
wheel employed to drive said link m¹³.
The lever n' has a length-stitch regulator, shown as a screw n', the lower end of
which acts on a stitch-block n8, (see Fig. 1,) attached to the top of the clamp-frame
by a screw n and made adjustable thereon, according to the length of the button-
hole, the said stitch-block having its surface made cam-shaped, so that as the said
screw rides on or off the said stitch-block the speed of rotation of the worm-wheel
will be varied, this being according to the length of stitch desired for
any particular
part of the buttonhole or to enable the stitch-frame to be reciprocated at a faster
speed, so as not to lose time between the completion of the stitching of one button-
hole and commencing the stitching of the next buttonhole. This screw n by
running on the stitch-block will, it will be obvious, alter the eccentricity of the
hub n². After the stitching of the buttonhole the reciprocation of the needle-bar
is stopped through the rock-shaft A18, which disengages the belt-pulley from the
main shaft; but the rotation of the belt-wheel continues and through slotted
link m¹³ described keeps up the rotation of the worm-shaft and at an increased
speed until the stitch-frame has put the cutting mechanism into or nearly into
operative position with relation to the work-holding clamp, when the worm, and
with it the worm-wheel, is automatically stopped. The first stoppage is effected by
the lever o, pivoted at o¹ on a bridge o², fastened to the part A' of the stitch-frame,
said bridge being extended across over the worm-wheel, (see Fig. 5,) one end, as o³,
of said lever at such time acting against the screw o*, carried by the lever n', the
other end of the said lever being thereby made to engage with a slide-bar os,
Fig. 2,) fitted into a guideway in the clamp-frame B, pushing said slide-bar against
the usual clamp-closing lever o, the latter arresting the movement of the said
slide-bar. The movement of the stitch-frame is, however, enough to turn the
lever o sufficiently to cause it, acting on the screw o, to turn the lever n' far
enough to place the hub n² thereof concentric with the centre of rotation of the
said belt-wheel. The blocks C and d¹, carrying the needle and looper mechanism,
are oscillated in unison. The worm-shaft m¹ has fast on it at its end most remote
from the clutch a ratchet m20, which is engaged by a spring-controlled pawl m²,
said pawl preventing reverse or back rotation of the said worm-shaft.
(see
The rock-shaft 30 and the arm 29, having the projection 28 engaging the link 26,
jointed to the arms 22*, pivoted at 23*, and carrying one of the pivoted presser-
feet of the work-clamp, are and may be as in my said Patent No. 11962 dated
September 21, 1886, it being understood that the rock-shaft has two arms 29, one
for each of two arms 22x, and that one of the arms 29 is acted upon by the cam-
lever o when it is desired to cause the arms 29 to be depressed and close the
work-clamp on the material.
Referring now to Fig. 18, the shaft A' has a gear 1, which engages a small
pinion, suitably supported to rotate about a fixed centre, said pinion having
projecting from one side of it an eccentric 15, surrounded by an eccentric-straps,
partially broken away in said figure to show the eccentric within it, said eccentric-
strap being pivoted at 17 to the needle-bar-actuating lever D.

page_text: Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is the arrangement or combination and use in a sewing machine for stitching
or sewing button holes of the following instrumentalities, that is to say :--
1. A stitch frame; stitch-forming devices having periodic rotation; a clamp-
frame having a work-holding clamp connected to it; a cam device; intermediate
connections between said cam and said stitch forming devices to periodically rotate
said stitch-forming devices and to effect the relative change of position of said
.stitch-frame and clamp-frame; a worm wheel operatively connected with said cam
device; a worm; and devices to automatically operate said worm, substantially as
and for the purpose described.
2. A stitch-frame, containing stitch-forming devices comprehending a reciprocating
eye pointed needle, and complemental stitch-forming mechanism each supported at
opposite sides of the work-holding clamp and adapted to be turned in unison about
coincident centres of motion; a clamp-frame and attached work-holding clamp; a
worm, a worm wheel actuated thereby, and devices intermediate said worm wheel
and stitch forming mechanism to both rotate the said stitch-forming mechanism and
to effect the relative change of motion between said stitch-frame and clamp-frame
whereby the said stitch-forming mechanism is adapted to stitch the two straight
sides and the round eye of a button-hole, substantially as and for the purpose
described.
3. Stitch-forming devices; carrying blocks therefor adapted to be turned about
a centre; supports for said blocks; a cam device; connections between it and the
said blocks to turn the same about a centre coincident with the longitudinal centre
of the needle-bar, a worm wheel operatively connected to said cam device, and a
worm to rotate said worm wheel and cam device, to operate, substantially as and
for the purpose described.
4. Stitch-forming devices having periodic rotation; a cam device, and suitable
intermediate connecting mechanism between it and said stitch-forming devices for
periodically rotating the stitch-forming devices; a worm wheel operatively con-
nected with said cam device, a worm to engage said worm wheel; and devices to
rotate said worm intermittingly to operate, substantially as and for the purpose
described.
5. Stitch-forming devices; a cam device, and suitable intermediate connecting
mechanism between it and said stitch-forming devices for turning the latter; a
worm wheel operatively connected with said cam device, a worm to engage said
worm wheel; a friction clutch and devices to actuate it to effect the movement of
said worm, substantially as and for the purpose described.
6. Stitch-forming devices; a cam device, and suitable intermediate connecting
mechanism between it and said stitch-forming devices for turning the latter; a
worm wheel operatively connected with said cam device, a worm to engage said
worm wheel; a friction clutch, and worm actuating devices having as operative
elements thereof a link having a circular projection, and a rod having a. strap to
embrace said projection, the said link and rod imparting two movements to the
said worm for each rotation of the pulley carrying said link; a shaft; suitable
devices set in motion thereby to actuate said stitch-forming devices to make
stitches, and a belt wheel to rotate said shaft, substantially as and for the purpose
described.
/
7. Stitch-forming devices; oscillating blocks to support said stitch-forming
devices; a cam device, and suitable intermediate mechanism for turning said blocks
and stitch-forming devices during the operation of stitching the round part of the
eye of a button-hole; a worm wheel connected to said cam device; a worm
engaging said worm wheel; a length or spacing stitch lever having a circular hub
provided with a slot; a slotted link pivotally connected to said belt wheel and
provided with a circular projection or rim and having its slot entered by the hub
of said stitch lever; a connecting rod actuated by said link; devices between it

page_text: and the said worm shaft to actuate it, and means to actuate said slide lever,
whereby, by change of position of the hub with relation to the centre of rotation
of said belt pulley, more or less throw may be given to the said worm and worm
wheel at each rotation of the said link, substantially as and for the purpose
described.
8. Stitch-forming mechanism; a work-clamp and actuating devices co-operating
therewith and including two cams to effect a combined longitudinal and lateral
movement between said stitch-forming mechanism and work-clamp in the stitching
of an eyed button-hole; a worm wheel operatively connected with said actuating
devices; a worm to engage said worm wheel; and devices to rotate said worm,
substantially as and for the purpose described.
9. A stitch-frame; a cutting mechanism; a work-holding clamp; a series of
cams for changing the relative positions of said stitch frame cutting mechanism,
and the said clamp-frame; and a cam for causing the said cutting mechanism to
cut the material held in said work-holding clamp; a worm wheel; a worm; and
actuating devices for the latter, whereby the said worm is made to actuate said
cams, substantially as and for the purpose described.
10. In an over-edge stitching mechanism, a needle, a looper having a beak and
a point; a throat plate, and a loop controller, a device to actuate said looper and
a cam device to actuate the said loop controller whereby the loop taken by the
part of the looper at one descent of the needle is held spread by said part and
said loop controller while another loop is put through it, the beak of the looper
entering this second loop and drawing it below the material, said second loop
during the reverse movement of the looper to engage by its point a third loop of
needle thread, being engaged by the loop controller to prevent the point of the
looper again catching the loop then on it and previously entered by the beak of the
looper, substantially as and for the purpose described.
11. A driving wheel; a worm wheel; a worm shaft, its worm; clutch mechanism
on the worm shaft; a link pivoted to the driving pulley having a slotted hub; and
a link for actuating the said clutch mechanism, and a stitch regulating lever having
a slotted hub, and devices to automatically turn said lever as and for the purposes
described.
12. The general arrangement, combination and use of the parts herein before
described so as to enable them to co-operate as and for the purpose herein before
set forth.
WM. BROOKES & SON,
55 & 56, Chancery Lane, London, Agents for the Applicant.