IMPROVED MACHINERY FOR MANUFACTURING PAPER AND CLOTH-LINED PAPER COLLARS FOR GENTLEMEN AND LADIES
Year: 1865

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Solomon Sally Gray, of Boston, in the County of
Suffolk, and State of Massachusetts, of the United States of America,
for the Invention of "IMPROVED MACHINERY FOR MANUFACTURING PAPER AND
CLOTH-LINED PAPER COLLARS FOR GENTLEMEN AND LADIES."
aled the 11th July 1865, and dated the 20th March 1865
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION filed by the said Solomon Sally Gray at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition and
Declaration, on the 20th March 1865, pursuant to the 9th Section of
the Patent Law Amendment Act, 1852.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, SOLOMON
SALLY GRAY,of Boston, in the County of Suffolk, and State of Massachusetts,
of the United States of America, send greeting.
WHEREAS I am in possession of an Invention for "IMPROVED MACHINERY
FOR MANUFACTURING PAPER AND CLOTH-LINED PAPER COLLARS FOR GENTLEMEN
AND LADIES," and have petitioned Her Majesty to grant unto me, my
executors, administrators, and assigns, Her Royal Letters Patent for the
same,and have made solemn Declaration that I am the first and true Inventor
thereof.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Solomon Sally Gray, do hereby
declare that the following Complete Specification under my hand and seal
[Price 8d.]

page_text: fully describes and ascertains the nature of the soid Invention, and in
what manner the same is to be performed, in and by the following
statement, reference being had to the accompanying Drawings forming a part
of this Specification, in which,-
Fig. 1 is a side elevation, Fig. 2 a front elevation, and Fig. 3 a top view
of a machine for cutting the sheets of paper or cloth-lined paper into strips of
the required width for collars; and Fig. 4 is a front elevation, and Fig. 5 a
side elevation of another kind of machine for a similar purpose.
Fig. 6 is a front elevation, and Fig. 7 is side elevation of an adjustable
press cutter for cutting the ends of collars into the shape required; and
Fig. 8 is a top view of a section in the line x, x, of Figs. 6 and 7.
Fig. 9 is a front elevation, and Fig. 10 a side elevation of a machine for
forming button holes.
Fig. 11 is a front elevation, and Fig. 12 a top view of the stitching press;
and Figs. 13, 14, and 15 are different views of the clamp dies to be used in
connection with said press.
Fig. 16 is a front elevation, and Fig. 17 a side elevation of a machine for
indenting or marking on the collars the line on which one part is to be folded
over, on to, or towards the other in the manufacture of turn-over collar; and
Fig. 18 is an enlarged top view of the block on which the collar is placed to
receive the indentation:
Fig. 19 is a side elevation of the molding or stretching machine, and
Fig. 20 is a vertical central section through a portion of the same; Fig. 21
is a horizontal section in the line x, x, of Fig. 19; and Fig. 22 is a perspec-
tive view of the slotted metallic ring through which the expanding block is
forced; & Fig. 23 is a perspective view of the rubber ring which encircles
the said metallic ring.
Fig. 24 is a front elevation of a machine for giving the required curve or
shape to a straight strip of paper or cloth-lined paper by plaiting or folding down
a portion of the same.
Like parts are indicated by the same letters of reference in all the
Drawings.
To enable others skilled in the art to make and use my improvements, I
will now proceed to describe the construction and operation of the same.
The nature of my Invention consists in certain improvements in machinery
and devices for performing with accuracy and dispatch the various consecutive
operations required in the manufacture of paper and cloth-lined paper
collars, and consists of the following parts, which I will now describe in
detail.

page_text: ;
Figs. 1, 2, and 3 represent one kind of machine for cutting the paper or
cloth-lined paper
into strips of the required width of the finished collars.
A, A, are the two sides of the frame of cast iron or other suitable material
and B is a horizontal table on which the sheets to be cut are laid, said table
being confined between the sides of the frame in any obvious manner, as
represented in Figs. 1 and 3. D and E are two cylinders of steel, the extremi-
ties of which turn in suitable bearings in the sides A, A, of the frame; g, g,
being screws by means of which the caps of said boxes are confined.
These cylinders D and E are so turned as to make a number of right angle
shoulders a, as clearly shown in Fig. 2, the shoulders on the one cylinder
coming in contact with those of the other, and thus forming in effect a series
of rotary cutters, the distance between each pair of cutters or shears being the
required width of a collar. These shoulders or cutters are kept closely
together by means of a set screw 6, which passes through the yoke X, against
the centre of the end of the upper cylinder D, as shown in Figs. 2 and 3.
The greater diameter of these rotary sheers the better and smoother they
will cut; they may be made from two inches to twelve in diameter, or even
more if desired. F is a fast pulley, and G is a loose pulley on the end of the
cylinder D; and H and I are pinions meshing into each other, and fast to
the ends of the cylinders D and E, by means of which and a suitable belt
running on the pulley F (in the direction shown by the arrow in Fig. 1) it
is obvious that the series of cutters a will be turned in the proper direction
to draw the sheets to be cut between them from the table B; C is a box
with an inclined bottom, into which the cut strips fall,and are piled uniformly
the same side up, which prevents all necessity of afterwards sorting them.
On one side of the table B is an adjustable slide d, against which the sheet to
be cut is placed. This slide d may be moved further from the edge of the
which pass through a
table, or nearer to it, by means of the set screws e, e,
cleat on the side of the table, as represented in Figs. 1 and 3. J, J, are
curved lateral guides arranged in front of the cylinders D and E, as shown in
Figs. 2 and 3, whereby the narrow waste strips of paper are forced to the
right and left and made to fall on to the floor instead of falling into the box C
and mingling with the strips cut out for collars; f is a movable partition
which can be changed according to the length of the strips which fall against
it in the box C. The sheets of paper or cloth-lined paper, one at a time,
being first cut or made a little wider than the required length of the finished
collars to be constructed therefrom, are placed upon the table B uniformly
(the finished or unfinished side up), so that one edge shall rest against the
guide d, and then pushed forward till they are caught by the rotary shears a,

page_text: by which they are drawn through and cut into the required strips with great
rapidity, leaving the edges of the strips perfectly smooth and neat.
Figs. 4 and 5 represent a machine of a different construction for accom-
plishing the same purpose as the machine which I have just described
K, K, K, is the frame of cast iron or other suitable material, and U is a
horizontal table between the sides of the frame, on which table the sheets to
be cut are placed; W is a fixed bed fast between the sides of the frame; and
L is a reciprocating cutter head or beam, the ends of which slide freely in
vertical slots in the upper ends of the sides of the frame; S and T are sheers
or cutters, S being confined to one side of the beam L by means of the
screws, while the cutter T is attached to the fixed bed W, and held in
place by means of the screws k. The cutter head L is prevented from wear
ing loose in the slot in which it plays by means of the gibi and set screwsj.
O is a shaft, the ends of which turn in suitable bearings in the frame K;
and N; N, are two pinion wheels fast one on each end of the said shaft;
P, P, are smaller pinións engaging with the pinions N, N, and fast to the
ends of the driving shaft Q, which is provided with the tight and loose pulleys
R; M, M, are pitmans, the lower ends of which are connected with the
pinions N, N, by the pins h, h, and their upper ends are connected with the
beam L by the pins m, m, by means of which devices it is obvious that the
requisite movements will be given to the cutter S. In the machines which I
have just described the cutting operation is performed by shears, which
leaves the cut edge of the paper much smoother and neater than it can be
done by a knife or die.forced through the same when lying on a block or
table; the latter operation (which is the usual one for cutting paper collars)
leaving the edges of the paper ragged and slightly turned to one side in the
direction of the cut.
In Figs. 6, 7, and 8 is represented an adjustable press cutter for cutting
the ends of collars into the shape required, in which Y is the frame of cast
iron or other suitable metal, and Z is a bed or table confined between the
two sides of the frame, as seen in Figs. 6 and 7. On the top of the bed Z
are two metallic blocks K', K'; the front sides of these blocks are provided
with slotted flanges, through which are passed the screws q into the edge of
the table Z, by means of which said blocks are capable of a lateral adjustment.
Land L are knives shaped, as shown in Fig. 8, so as to conform to the
contour of the corners of the collars to be cut thereby; these knives have
their upper edges sharp; and are confined to the blocks K', K', by means
of screws r; M³ is a wooden block which rests upon a bed of rubber or other
suitable spring or springs. The top of this block M; when not depressed, is

page_text: on a level with the edges of the knives L', L'; just back of the cutters L¹, L',
are two little guide pins s, s. A is a reciprocating platen or beam, the ends
of which slide in vertical slots in the sides of the frame Y, between the cleats o;
J, J, are flat copper plates fast to the under side of the beam A', directly
over the knives L', L', forming a cutting bed for the same; B', B¹, are con-
necting rods, by means of which the bar A¹ is moved up and down. The
upper ends of these rods B₁ are attached to the rods n, which pass through
the ends of the beam A', and are provided with screw nuts above & below
said beam (as shown in Figs. 6 and 7), whereby the later may be vertically
adjusted. The lower ends of the rods B' are connected with the pinions C¹
on the axle D' by means of eccentric pins. The pinions C are driven by
another set of pinions F¹, F, on the axle E¹; G is a fly wheel fast to the
axle V, the latter being provided with a set of smaller pinions which engage
with the pinions F'; H and I' are the driving pulleys, the one fast and the
other loose, on one end of the shaft V.
The operation of this machine is as follows:-The cutters L', L', being
adjusted the proper distance apart, the collars, previouslycut out the requisite
length and width, are placed, from fifty to a hundred together, on top of the
knives and block M', with their back edges against the guide pins s, s. The
beam A' is now forced down upon the pile of collars until the knives have
cuc through them and come in contact with the copper platens J¹, J¹, the
spring bed M¹ being at the same time depressed with the pile of collars, and
keeping them straight, so that they will all be cut of an equal length; by this
means. the ends of the collars are shaped with the greatest accuracy and
dispatch; and since the knives (as explained above) are susceptible of a lateral
adjustment, the same set may be used to shape the ends of collars of any
length required.
In Figs. 9 and 10 is represented the machine I employ for making button
holes, in which N', N¹, are the two sides of the frame, of cast iron or other
suitable material; O' is a fixed bed or beam between the two sides of the
frame, as shown in Fig. 9; e, e', e', are blocks of steel attached to the beam
O by means of the screws g¹; g¹, g', which pass freely through the horizontal
slots ff, by means of which the two outer blocks may be set nearer together
or further apart, according to the distance apart which it may be required to
form the botton holes; through these blocks e', el, el, are verticalslots of the
exact size and shape of the button holes to be made in the collars. P¹ is a
reciprocating beam, the two ends of which slide.freely in vertical slots in
the upright continuations R', R', of the frame. To one side of this beam P¹
are attached the: male dies or punches 6, 61, 6, by means of screws d¹, d¹; d¹,

page_text: the two outer screws passing freely through horizontal slots c¹, c¹, so that the
two outer punches may be set nearer together or further apart, as may be
required for collars of various lengths. The beam P' with its appendages is
carried up and down by means of the forked pitman U¹, the lower end of
which is provided with a strap to encircle the eccentric V', fast on the driving
shaft W, while the upper ends are connected with the longer ends of the
levers T, T¹, which vibrate on the fulcrum pins u in the uprights S¹. The
shorter ends of the levers T' are connected by pins and toggles with the
beam P¹, as clearly shown in Fig. 9. Xi is a wheel fast to its axle W';
and Y' is a driving pulley on said axle. The contiguous sides of these wheels
X and Y are covered with leather or other suitable substance to produce the
requisite traction when the two surfaces are forced together, which is done by
the operator's foot pressed upon the bent lever Z¹, the shorter arm of which
is forked so as to fit into a groove w on the outer side of the pulley Y', as
clearly shown in Fig. 9, x being the fulcrum of said lever, and a¹ a spiral
spring by means of which it is raised (when not depressed by the operator's
foot), and the pulley Y' thrown from the wheel X'; p'is a spiral spring, by
means of which the long end of the lever 'T¹ is drawn down and the punches b¹
are raised from the blocks e¹.
The operation of this machine is as follows:-The blocks e¹ and dies 61
being set the required distance apart, and in the proper relative position, the
collars (previously cut to the requisite size and shape) are placed, five or six
at a time, in the right position over the blocks e¹, e¹, e¹, in which are female
dies, and the operator depresses the lever Z' with his foot, thereby bringing
the driving pulley Y¹ in contact with the wheel X, which, from the above
explanation, will obviously cause the beam P¹, carrying the dies 61, to descend
and punch the holes, which they do with great rapidity and exactness. Over
the blocks e' are overhanging flanches to hold the collars down as the dies b¹
are withdrawn from the holes. On the right side of the right-hand lower
block is a stop, against which, as a guide, the collars are placed; there is
also a similar stop guide back of each of the blocks e¹.
The next operation is the formation of the imitation stitching around the
edges of the collars, and is performed by means of the machinery or devices
represented in Figs. 11, 12, 13, 14, and 15, in which A", A", are the two
sides of the frame of cast iron or other suitable material, and M" is a fixed
bed or beam of iron between the said sides of the frame, as shown in Fig. 11
C¹¹ is an extended wooden table flush with the top of the beam M"; D" is a
reciprocating beam which plays freely in vertical slots in the upright continua-
tions B, B", of the frame A", A". This beam D" is moved up and down

page_text: by means of the pitmans E", E", the lower ends of which are connected by
means of the eccentric pins n', n', to the wheels F", F", fast to the ends of
the axle G"; the upper ends of said pitmans being connected with the ends
of the bean D" by means of the bolts h', h¹, which are provided with nuts
above and below said beam (as seen in Fig. 11), whereby the latter can be
set nearer to or further from the beam, as may be required; H is the driving
pulley, and I", the loose pulley on the shaft G". This apparatus forms a
simple adjustable press to operate in combination with the stitching clamps,
which I will now describe. These clamps consist of two flat pieces of hard
wood board or other suitable material J" and L", the shape and relative size of
which are shown in Figs. 13, 14, and 15; these boards J" and L" are united
at their back edges by means of hinges l', ; K" is a handle attached to the
upper board J", as shown in Figs. 14 and 15. Around the edge of the upper
board J is attached, by means of screws, the stitching die, which consists of
one or two lines of little points formed on one edge of the metallic strip /¹,
of the proper size and distance apart to form, when pressed into a collar, the
required imitation of stitching; and j¹ are holes in the board J" for the
insertion of the letters or figures required to mark the size, name, &c., on the
collars; mare little guide pins projecting slightly above the surface of
the board L", as shown in Figure 15, against which pins the back edge of
the collar to be stitched is placed; o¹ (see Fig. 15) is a bed of brass or
other suitable substance attached to the board L" to form a plàten for the
die k¹ to press upon when the two boards are brought together. To operate
this machine the collar to be stitched, &c., is placed in the proper position
upon the board L", and the board J" is folded over upon it; thus placed, the
two boards are shoved by the operator between the beams M" and ", so
that as the latter descends the die k will be forced into the collars, and form
the requisite imitation of stitching. The marking, numbering, &c., are also
done at the same operation. Two persous may work at this nachine at the
same time, alternately placing the collars in the clamps and pushing them
under the pressure beam D".
Figs. 16, 17, and 18 represent a machine for forming in a turn-over collar
a crease or indentation on the line on which the one portion is turned over
on to or towards the other, in which N", N", are the sides of the frame of
cast iron or other suitable material, and O" is a fixed beam placed between
said sides, as shown in Fig. 10; P" is a table of hard wood or other suitable
material (an enlarged view of which is shown in Fig. 18), on the upper side
of which is an iudented line s' of the exact curve required to be made in the
collar; this table P is placed on top of the beam O", as represented in

page_text: Fig. 16. Raised on the back edge of the table are two ears q, q", through
which are passed the screws r, r, the heads of which extend to the surface
of said table, and thereby form adjustable guides, against which the collar to
be indented is placed; is a lateral guide attached to the edge of the table P
(as shown in Figs. 16 and 18), by means of a screw which passes through a
longitudinal slot, whereby the said guide is rendered laterally adjustable so as
to answer for collars of various lengths. Q" is a reciprocating beam, the
ends of which slide freely in vertical slots in the uprights R", R". To the
under side of this beam is attached, by means of screws, a thin strip of metal
of the same curve at the indented line s¹ in the top of the table P", directly
over and parallel with which line the said blade is arranged. The beam Q11
is carried up and down by means of the pitmans T", the lower ends of which
are connected with the pinions U" by the eccentric pins ; the upper ends
of the pitmans are connected with the beam Q", as described in Fig. 11.
V" is the axle of the pinions U", which are driven by the smaller pinions W11
fast to the shaft X"; w¹ and v¹ being a loose and tight pulley on the same;
u, u, are nuts, in the opposite ends of which are cut right and left-hand
screws, by means of which the two sections of the pitmans T, T", are united,
and by means of which they may be lengthened or shortened at pleasure.
The collars to be indented is placed upon the table P" against the guides, 2,
and t', when the blade S" descends and makes the required defined indenta-
tion, whereby one part may be readily and properly turned over on to or
towards the other.
In Figs. 19, 20, 21, and 22 is represented a machine for moulding or
stretching a paper orcloth-lined paper collar so as to give it any desirable form
or flare, in which A is a bench or table, supported by the brace C and
hollow cylinder D on the legs B; G is a conical block or former, of
wood or metal, shaped as shown in Figs. 19 and 20. In this former is a
central hole through which is passed the upper portion of the rod or piston Fill,
provided with a screw nut h at the top, by means of which the said former
is made fast to the piston; below the former G the piston F is enlarged,
as shown in Figs. 20 and 21, being provided with right-angled cleats fitted to
slide in corresponding grooves in the blocks 1, 1, which are permanently
attached to the inside of the hollow cylinder D, as represented in Fig. 21.
A vertical movement is given to the piston F by means of the connecting
rod H and eccentric pin in the wheel or pulley I", as shown in Fig. 19.
Jis a rigid piece of metal, shaped as represented in Figs. 20 and 21, and
kept in place by means of the screw a¹ and the table A, through which it
passes; this piece J fits into a corresponding vertical slot in one side of the

page_text: former G, as clearly seen in Figs. 19 and 20; L is a band of sheet steel
or other suitable elastic metal or material provided with a flanch 6¹¹¹, and
having its sides slit from the top nearly down to the bottom, as represented
enlarged in Fig. 22, so as to give it the requisite expansibility; this band is
placed upon
the table A¹ and confined thereto in any obvious manner, as
seen in Figs. 19 and 20: Around the metallic ring L is closely fitted
another ring K, of rubber; Mis a bent lever of iron or other suitable
material attached to the cylinder D by means of the fulcrum pin &, the
lower end of said lever being connected by means of the rod N to the
treadle O, as clearly shown in Fig. 19; P is a spiral spring attached to
the table' A and treadle O, by means of which the latter' (when not
depressed by the operator's foot) is raised as represented in Fig. 19, and the
upper end of the lever M is thrown back from the former G. On the
upper end of the lever M is a rubber or 'elastic pad fi", confined thereto by
meaus of the side clamps and screws g¹¹¹.
The operation of this machine is as follows:-The operator takes a collar
(previously cut the required size; stitched and button-holed) as explained above,
and clasps it around the rubber band K, so that its lower edge shall rest
upon the top of the table A, and the two ends overlap each other in front of
the fixed piece J; he then depresses the treadle O with his foot, which
forces the pad on to the ends of the collar and holds them fast; the conical
former G is now forced downward through the rings L and K1, by which
they and the unclamped portion of the collar will be expanded, and the latter
stretched or molded into the form required, as fully described in the Patent
which I have secured in various countries for molded paper and cloth-lined
paper collars.
Fig. 24 is a front elevation of a machine by means of which the requisite
curve or shape is given to a collar by contracting one edge or portion thereof,
and it consists of a suitable frame Q, and two metallic cylinders R and S
which turn respectively on their axles and t. One portion m¹ of these
cylinders is smooth, the other portion n (of somewhat greater diameter) is
provided with cogs, resembling those of a common pinion wheel, which mesh
into each other, as shown in the Drawing. The upper cylinder R is pressed
hard upon the lower one by means of springs applied to its axle in any obvious
manner. V is a pulley or fly wheel, by means of which the machine be
driven by power, or it may be turned by hand by means of the handle w¹¹¹
If a straight strip of paper or cloth-lined paper (represented by the dotted
lines in Fig. 24) be passed between the cylinders R and S, that portion
which passes between the cogs n will becrimped and stretched, while that
may

page_text: portion which passes between the smooth surfaces m will be plaited and
flattened down and thereby contracted, so that the collar will assume a curved
shape such as is required, more particularly for ladies' collars, thereby pro-
ducing a very ornamental article with great rapidity, cheapness, and saving of
stock.
Having thus described the nature of my improvements, what I claim as new
and desire to secure by Letters Patent is,--
First, the series of rotary shears a in combination with the table B and
receiving box C, or their equivalents, substantially as set forth and for the
purpose described.
Second, keeping the rotary shears a on the two cylinders pressed together
by means of the set screw b, or its equivalent, substantially as described.
Third, constructing a series of rotary shears on a single cylinder in one
piece with said cylinder, instead of making them separate, substantially as
described.
Fourth, the lateral guides J, J, arranged in combination with the rotary
cutters and receiving box, substantially as and for the purpose described.
Fifth, rendering the knives L, L, laterally adjustable, so that one set
of them will answer for cutting collars of various lengths, substantially as
described.
Sixth, the depressible spring bed M' arranged and operating in com-
bination with the cutters L',L', substantially as and for the purpose described.
Seventh, the three dies b¹, b', b', arranged substantially as described to cut
three button holes at once.
Eighth, making the outside dies 6', 6', laterally adjustable so as to cut
button holes in collars of different lengths, substantially as described.
Ninth, the arrangement of devices for starting and stopping the dies b',
substantially as described.
Teuth, the clamps J" and L", provided with the stitching or the stitching
and marking dies, so constructed as to operate in combination with a press,
substantially as described.
Eleventh, the table P" provided with the curved indentations, to operate
in combination with the curved indenting blade S", substantially as and for
the purpose described.
Twelfth, the adjustable guides on the table P", substantially as and for the
purpose described.
Thirteenth, the combination of the former G with the elastic band or
bands, or their equivalents, substantially as and for the purpose described.
Fourteenth, holding the strip or collar by its two ends whilst the former is

page_text: being forced into or through it to mold it to the required form, substantially
as described.
Fifteenth, leaving that portion of the strip or collar that is to be molded
unclamped or free, whilst the other portion is firmly held so that a former
moving past it may mold or stretch said free portion, substantially as
described.
Sixteenth, the employment of the slitted steel band L next to the
former G, to relieve the friction of the said former on the rubber band K¹",
substantially as described.
Seventeenth, the two cylinders R and S, constructed with the smooth
and corrugated surfaces operating in combination, substantially as described.
In witness whereof, I have hereunto set my hand and seal, this Tenth
day of February, A.D. 1865.
SOLOMON SALLY GRAY. (L.s.)