MPROVEMENTS IN STIFFENERS FOR CORSETS, DRESS GOODS, AND OTHER PURPOSES, IN MEANS AND APPARATUS FOR MAKING THE SAME, AND IN THE MANUFACTURE OF CORSETS THEREWITH."
Year: 1881

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Edwin Powley Alexander, of 36, Southampton Buildings,
in the County of Middlesex, Consulting Engineer and British and Foreign
Patent Agent, for an Invention of LMPROVEMENTS IN STIFFENERS FOR
CORSETS, DRESS GOODS, AND OTHER PURPOSES, IN MEANS AND APPARATUS
FOR MAKING THE SAME, AND IN THE MANUFACTURE OF CORSETS THEREWITH."
A communication from abroad by Lucien Calvin Warner, of the City, County,
and State of New York, in the United States of America.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Edwin Powley Alexander at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 22nd April 1881.
EDWIN POWLEY ALEXANDER, of 36, Southampton Buildings, in the County of
Middlesex, Consulting Engineer and British and Foreign Patent Agent. " IMPROVE
MENTS IN STIFFENERS FOR CORSETS, DRESS. GOODS, AND OTHER PURPOSES, IN
MEANS AND APPARATUS FOR MAKING THE SAME, AND IN THE MANUFACTURE OF
CORSETS THEREWITH." A communication from abroad by Lucien Calvin Warner,
of the City, County, and State of New York, in the United States of America.
"
This Invention relates to ribs or stiffeners which serve as substitutes for the
ordinary stiffening blades of horn, bone, steel, whalebone, and the like, used for
stiffening corsets, underwaists, bosom pads, for crinoline, hat brims, and other like
purposes, and consists, first, in a stiffening rib blade or strip composed, essentially
of the fibres of a grass obtained from a plant growing in Mexico, which fibres are
bound together and are known commercially as "Tampico" or "Mexican fibre;
secondly, in certain modes of treating the said ribs to improve the quality of the
same; thirdly, in modes and apparatus for forming the said fibres into blades, ribs,
or continuous strips; fourthly, in an improved inode of making corsets by the aid
of such improved stiffeners.
as
In making a substitute for the ordinary whalebone or horn blades what is known
Tampico fibre" is used.
This fibre is prepared from certain parts of the "Mexican agaver plant," and, it
has been discovered that it possesses peculiar adaptability for the purpose named,

page_text: and when heated or tempered it acquires improved properties, whereby its elasticity
and durability are increased.
It has been found that when thus tempered the said material will wear much
better than when not so treated, and articles made therefrom will retain their
shape and stiffness under a degree of wear that would render worthless articles
boned in the ordinary manner.
The fibres may be assembled, bundled, or consolidated together in different ways
and in different forms, according to the purposes to or positions in which they are
to be applied.
The consolidation of the fibres may be effected by threads passing round or
through the mass of fibres in different ways to hold them compactly together;
some of the threads pass over and under the fibres, and others pass through the
mass, tying the upper and lower threads tightly down upon the faces of the
blade.
The bundles of fibre or ribs may be bound by threads before combining such
ribs, or the separate unbound bundles of fibre may be brought together and united
by threads, the result being the same so far as concerns the consolidating, con-
densing, or compacting of the mass of fibres in one broad flat blade.
Any desired means may be employed, whereby the fibres are collected together
and formed into continuous bundles or ribs of unlimited length, thereby utilizing
short fibres which could not otherwise be employed in the manufacture of long
blades. In like manner can be formed long continuous blades of combined fibres
and horn strips, utilizing short thin pieces of horn or other material, which could
not well be embodied in long blades in any other manner.
Thus short strips of horn may be arranged between and combined with con-
Tinous ribs of fibre, and all may be consolidated by any surrounding binding, or
thin strips of horn may be superposed on the ribs and bound thereto. In any case
the short horn is made the means of producing a long stiffening blade, while greater
stiffness is imparted to the latter than would result from the use of fibre alone.
To facilitate the combination of the short strips with the continuous ribs, the
horn strips may be bound together in continuous lengths by wrapping-threads,
thus permitting all the ribs which are to be united in the blade to be manipulated
in like manner, and avoiding the necessity of feeding the short strips separately.
Cement may be substituted for binding threads in some cases.
Where it is desirable or necessary to form a blade of greater stiffness or rigidity
it is well to apply thereto at any stage during the manufacture a waterproofing or
stiffening composition.
The blade may also be completed by the application of pressure, and the further
application of heat tempers the fibre.
By winding the bundle with the threads wrapped in different directions, the
parallelism of the fibres is preserved and the ribs produced are stiff and straight.
Various arrangements of apparatus may be used for so applying the threads,
consisting essentially of hollow spindles or sleeves carrying bobbins, and driven in
opposite directions, guides for carrying both threads to the end of the outer spindle,
devices for driving them in opposite directions, and feed rolls with appliances for
adjusting the same to and from each other.
Various means may also be used for effecting the before described union of cords
or ribs and threads, thus the ribs may be brought and fed parallel to each other
and united by a shuttle thread carried by a shuttle and a carrier thread laid by
means of a carrier, also by needle threads passed between the various ribs by the
aid of reciprocating needles. According to one arrangement of apparatus it is
proposed to combine together in a machine specially devised for forming strips
fro:n cords, ribs, or bundles of stiff material devices for bringing a series of bundles
or ribs side by side and feeding then forward, also appliances whereby binding
threads are carried across and between the ribs and interlocked therewith, also a
channelled plate and feeding appliances, a shuttle and devices for reciprocating the
same, also a series of needles and appliances, whereby they are reciprocated between

page_text: the channels, also feed rollers, a thread carrier and appliances for reciprocating the
needle carrier and thread carrier, and for operating the feed devices.
In combination with the feed rolls are two adjustable blocks arranged above the
shuttle race, and forming a channel to receive the ribs and hold them compactly
together just as the binding threads are interlocked.
That part of the said Invention which relates to the manufacture of corsets,
consists in boning the corset by placing the supporting bones or ribs between the
outer and inner sheets of fabric, and then sewing the latter together close to the
edges of the rib, thereby securing the ribs in the pockets as the same are made.
Also in inserting the end portion of a continuous stiff supporting strip or rib
between the outer and inner faces of the section, sewing the same together along
the edge of the rib, and then severing the rib prior to again inserting and sewing
it in place; also in finishing by sewing the bones in the separate sections pressing
the same, and then sewing them into the corset.
The ribs or bones, according to this Invention, extend to the edges of the corset
and are sewed between the outer and inner fabrics and to the binding by stitches
which pass through the ribs.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed
by the said Edwin Powley Alexauder in the Great Seal Patent Office on. the
14th October 1881.
EDWIN POWLEY ALEXANDER, of 36, Southampton Buildings, in the County of
Middlesex, Consulting Engineer and British and Foreign Patent Agent. "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN STIFFENERS FOR CORSETS, DRESS GOODS, AND OTHER PURPOSES, IN
MEANS AND APPARATUS FOR MAKING THE SAME, AND IN THE MANUFACTURE OF
CORSETS THEREWITH." A communication from abroad by Lucien Calvin Warner,
of the City, County, and State of New York, in the United States of America.
The said Invention relates to improved ribs or stiffeners, and to the application
thereof as substitutes for the ordinary stiffening blades of horn, bone, steel, whale-
bone, and the like, used for stiffening corsets, underwaists, and bosom pads, and
consists,
1. In a stiffening rib, blade, or strip composed essentially of "tampico" fibres,
or what is known in England as "Mexican fibre," bound together in a peculiar
manner.
2. In modes and apparatus for forming said fibres into blades, ribs, or continuous
strips.
3. In the application and use of such ribs in making corsets.
In making a substitute for the ordinary whalebone or horn blades I use what is
known as
tampico or Mexican fibre.
"
This fibre is prepared from certain parts of a Mexican plant, and it has been
discovered that it possesses peculiar adaptability for the purpose named, the fibres
being stiff, straight, tough, elastic, not affected injuriously by inoisture, or perspi-
ration, and when heated acquiring improved properties whereby their elasticity and
durability are increased. This change has been denominated "tempering," inasmuch
as it is somewhat analogous to that which results from heating steel, as fully set
forth in the Specification to Letters Patent, No. 2205, granted to me on the
31st day of May, A.D. 1880.
The said fibres may be assembled or consolidated in different ways and in different
forms, according to the purposes to or positions in which they are to be applied.
The consolidation by external bindings or lappings is set forth in the Specification
to my aforesaid Patent, but the present Invention relates to another mode of and
to peculiar apparatus for combining the fibres, as hereinafter described.
And in order that the said Invention may be fully understood. I shall now
proceed more particularly to describe the same, and for that purpose shall refer to
the several Figures on the explanatory Sheets of Drawings hereunto annexed, the
same letters of reference indicating corresponding parts in all the corresponding
Figures.
In Figures 1 to 8 are shown different ways of bundling or consolidating the
fibres.
In Figures 10 to 12 is illustrated an arrangement of machinery or apparatus
whereby fibres may be consolidated by means of external binding threads wound
thereon.
In Figures 14 to 18, and in the diagrams 19 to 22, are shown the mode of and
machinery or apparatus for consolidating the fibres by several threads sewed or
woven among the same, forming wide or flat bundles, as in Figures 1 to 8.
In Figures 23 to 25 is illustrated a means of utilizing stiffeners in the manufacture
of corsets.
The consolidating of the fibres to form flat blades is effected by threads passing
round and through the mass of fibres so as to hold them compactly together, as
shown in Figures 1, 2, 3, and 4. Some of the threads pass over and under the
fibres, and others pass through the mass, tying the upper and lower threads tightly
down upon the faces of the blades.

page_text: The bundles of fibres or ribs a may be bound by threads b (Figure 1) as described
in my aforesaid Specification, before combining such ribs or the separate unbound
bundles of fibre a, Figure 3, may be brought together and united by threads, the
result being the same as far as concerns the consolidating, condensing, or compacting
of the mass of fibres in one flat blade of greater or less width.
Any desired means may be employed whereby the fibres are collected together
and formed into continuous bundles or ribs a of unlimited length, thereby untilizing
short fibres which could not otherwise be employed in the manufacture of long
blades. In like manner can be formed long continuous blades of combined fibres
and horn, whalebone, and other strips, utilizing short thin pieces of 'horn or other
material which could not well be embodied in long blades in any other manner.
Thus short strips e, e, of horn, or bone, or steel may be arranged between and
combined with continuous ribs a of fibre, and all may be consolidated by any sur-
rounding binding, as in Figures 5 and 6; or thin strips e, e, of horn may be
superposed on the ribs and united thereto, as shown in Figure 8. In any case the
short pieces of horn are made the means of producing a long stiffening blade, while
greater stiffness is imparted to the latter than would result from the use of fibre
alone.
To facilitate the combination of the short strips with the continuous ribs a the
horn strips may be bound together in continuous lengths by wrapping threads, as
shown in Figure 9, thus permitting all the ribs which are to be united in the blade
to be manipulated in like manner, and avoiding the necessity of feeding the short
strips separately. Cement may be substituted for binding threads to unite the
strips e if desired.
Where it is desirable or necessary to form a blade of greater stiffness or rigidity,
it is well to apply thereto at any stage during the manufacture a waterproofing
or stiffening composition, as marine glue, Japan paint, or other suitable material
which will fill the interstices of the blade, rendering it more solid and stiffer.
The blade thus formed may also be compacted by the application of pressure, as
in the manufacture of blades described in my aforesaid Specification.
It has been found that in uniting the bundle a of fibres with wrapping or
binding threads wound only in one direction, the fibres will sometimes get
displaced by the friction the thread in winding, the result being that the ribs
produced are twisted or crooked, and when used in corsets distort the latter out of
shape.
By winding the bundle with two or more threads wrapped in different directions
round the bundle the parallelism of the fibres is preserved, and the ribs produced
are stiff and straight.
Different kinds of winding apparatus may be used for so applying the threads;
that shown in Figures 10 to 12 has proved to be very effective.
The base A supports a standard B in which is fixed a hollow spindle carrying
the sleeve T, provided at the inner end with a grooved pulley b, and at the outer
end with a cross piece c carrying a rod d and bobbin X.
On the sleeve T turns a second hollow spindle or sleeve U likewise provided
with a pulley b¹, cross piece c', and rod d¹ for holding a bobbin X¹.
The two sleeves and their bobbins are rotated rapidly in opposite directions by
belts passing to the pulleys b, bl.
The bundle of fibres is conducted from any suitable trough or holder D
through the centre of the spindle a, being fed forward in any suitable manner, and
the threads from the bobbins are laid upon the same in opposite directions, as
shown in Figure 13, the thread from the bobbin X passing through an eye e at the
end of the sleeve T, and the thread from the bobbin X¹ passing along an arın I
which is constructed to hold the thread outside of the course travelled by the
bobbin X so as not to catch on the latter, and to deliver it at a point adjacent to
where the bundle of fibres enters the spindle.
Both threads are thus simultaneously conducted to and wound upon the bundle,
out in different directions.

page_text: Different forms of feed devices may be employed for conducting the bundle
through the spindle. Thus two feed rolls H, H', grooved to receive the rib, but
set to press the same tightly so as to secure the requisite hold, may be used.
These feed rolls may be geared by toothed wheels J, J¹, and driven from the
sleeve T by gears i, i¹, a worm j on the shaft of the gear i¹, and a worm wheel
on the shaft of the roll H, as shown. The movement of the feed will be thus
proportioned in speed to that of the wrapping threads.
To effect the ready adjustment of the feed rolls to the thickness of the rib, the
shaft of the roll H. is mounted in bearings on a plate K adjustable on the face of
the standard B, and the shaft of the roll H¹ in bearings on a plate L adjustable
on the plate K, all as clearly shown in the Drawing.
Figures 14 to 18 show an arrangement of machinery or apparatus for uniting
the fibres or ribs, in which the latter are brought and fed parallel to each other, and
united by a shuttle thread b (see diagrams, Figures 19 to 22) carried by a shuttle B,
a carrier thread laid by means of a carrier C, and needle threads passed
between the various bundles or ribs by reciprocating needles D.
The frame A of the machine is constructed with a race for the shuttle B,
the face plate d of the race being perforated or having transverse tubes d¹
inserted therein for the passage of the ribs or cords which cross the race above
the shuttle to geared feed rolls E, E, an intermittent rotation being imparted to
the latter by devices shown. The needle frame or arm F is secured to or swings
on a cross bar or shaft F, and is reciprocated by means of a cam F2 on the main
shaft G, an arm fattached to the needle bar or frame carrying a lug f¹ which
enters a cam groove in the side of the said cam F2.
The needles D are carried at the front end of the needle arm parallel to each
other (see Figure 15), and set at such an angle that when the arm is down they
will lie with their inner edges flush with the inner side of the face plate & in
grooves thereof, and between the tubes or openings d, the needle threads 62
passing from the eyes diagonally across the shuttle race over the edge of an
overhanging plate to the fabric, so that the shuttle can readily and surely pass
between the needles and threads.
Needles of different forms may be used, for instance, eye pointed needles, but I
prefer one made of thin steel plate bent or doubled until the sides are nearly in
contact, leaving just sufficient space for the passage of a thread, which may therefore
be laid easily into the needle.
a
The needle threads b₁ are carried from bobbins or spools B³, each through
tension device B+ secured at the rear of the frame F, so that the required tension
ean be secured for each separate thread, and from the tension device the said
thread passes to a transverse perforated plate carried by a take up lever H vibrating
on the shaft F, and having an arm carrying a stud (Figure 17) adapted to a cam
groove in the side of the cam F2, such movement being thus imparted to the take
up as will release or tighten the threads as necessary to secure the desired results.
The thread carrier C (Figures 17 and 18) consists of a flat plate having an
eye m, and spring lips m³, m²; which plate is reciprocated on or above the face
plate d by means of a vibrating lever I pivotted at the rear end to the frame, and
carrying a studentering a groove in a cam I, by which the requisite movements
are imparted to the lever in proper time.
The carrier thread b¹ passes from one of the bobbins Bs through one of the
tension devices B4 to an eye g in the lever I, thence beneath the fingers m', m', to'
the eye m of the carrier (Figure 18).
The shuttle is reciprocated in the ordinary manner by means of a lever J
vibrated by means of a cam J.
As the cords or bundles a are carried through the channels by the action of
the feed rollers, the operations of the different parts of the machine, the needles
being up and the shuttle and carrier both at the same side (Figure 19), will be as
follows:-
+
The needles will first descend, carrying the threads between the cords or bundles

page_text: of fibres, as shown in Figure 19, thus presenting the needle threads for the passage
of the shuttle, which then moves to the left, thereby carrying the shuttle thread b
across the needle threads below the fabric.
The needles then rise, drawing up the shuttle thread against the underside of
the fabric, and holding it by the series of loops of needle thread which pass between
the ribs.
The carrier C then moves to the left, carrying its thread over the ribs to the
position shown in Figure 20, after which the needles again descend, each needle
thread looping over the overlaid carrier thread, and binding it to the top of the
fabric. The needle threads are then crossed by the shuttle thread; as the shuttle
moves to the right the needles again-rise, and the carrier assumes its first position
(Fig. 21).
The continuance of these operations results in firmly binding the ribs or bundles
in a flat fabric or strip, which may be made of any desired length, however short
the individual fibres or splints may be, and by properly shaping and arranging the
feed tubes or channels, and by the use of the requisite number of needles, the
strip may be made of different widths or thicknesses.
A strip or rib of bone or horn may be substituted for one of the cords, thus
forming a compound strip, Figure 5, or such strip of horn or bone may be laid
on the cords or ribs a, and carried forward and bound with the same, Figure 8.
In some instances it is desirable to coat or size the material, in which case the
ribs & may be passed through a bath before entering the channels d, or the strip
after being formed may be passed through such bath.
To hold the ribs compactly together just as the binding threads are interlocked
they are passed through a channel just large enough to receive the finished strip
formed between adjustable blocks n, n', (Figure 18) arranged above the shuttle
race.
These blocks inay be adjusted to receive strips of any width.
It is not absolutely necessary to use the thread carrier C, as the needles or the
series of ribs may be moved laterally after each upward motion of the needles, so
that each of the latter will on its second descent pass between different ribs than
those between which it descended at the previous movement, the needle threads
being locked in such case wholly by the shuttle thread.
Inasmuch as by the means above described the stiffening ribs may be made in
continuous lengths, they may be used for many purposes where long elastic ribs
are required. The use of the material in the manufacture of corsets is shown in
Figures 23, 24, and 25, which illustrate a mode of "boning" by first laying a rib
against a seam between the two superposed sheets of fabric b, c, constituting a
section of a corset, then sewing along the edge of the rib, then cutting it off and
laying it close to the seam securing the first rib and proceeding as before.
Thus a reel B supplied with a coil of rib material is mounted in bearings
adjacent to a sewing machine, and the operator taking the loose rib end inserts it
between the fabrics of a corset section A, sews along a line close to the rib, then
places another section A on the work plate, and adjusts the rib between the sheets
and sews it, and after this is completed does the same with a third section A, and
so on with succeeding sections, as many as may be desirable, and after the rib is
secured in the last section A cuts it close to the edge y and carries the loose end
to the first section, and repeats the operations again and again until the requisite
number of ribs is in each section. The ribs are then cut close to the edges y, y',
of each section, thus forming sections in which the ribs are closely confined in the
pockets in the act of forming the latter, and in which such ribs extend fully to
the edges.
I prefer in some instances in place of sewing the ribbed sections to the other
sections, and thus forming the body of the corset, and afterwards pressing the
latter, as is ordinarily done to bone each section and then press it while it is flat,
and before sewing it to the other parts, thus avoiding the difficulty of finishing an
irregularly shaped article; and a number of flat sections may be placed upon the
flat plate of a press, and at one operation such a powerful pressure is applied as

page_text: will condense and solidify the ribbed sections, imparting great stiffness and elasticity
giving a fine finish to the surface, and flattening and consolidating the tampico
ribs in the pockets, and tempering" it if the press plate is hot.
"
After the sections thus formed are sewed together, the corset may be ironed to
flatten and finish the seams.
By the operations above described, the cost of making the corset and the length
of time required are greatly reduced, and a very superior corset made.
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of the said
Invention, and the manner in which the same is or may be used or carried into
effect, I would observe in conclusion that what I consider to be novel and original,
and therefore claim as the Invention secured to me by the herein before in part.
recited Letters Patent is,
First. The peculiar mode or modes of manufacturing ribs or stiffeners for corsets
and other articles from "Tampico" fibres, as hereinbefore described and illustrated
by the Drawings hereunto annexed.
.
Secondly. The combination with the hollow spindles carrying bobbins X, X', and
driven in opposite directions, of guides for carrying both threads to the end of the
outer spindle, and adjustable feed rolls, all arranged and constructed to operate,
substantially as and for the purpose hereinbefore described.
"
Thirdly. A Tampico" stiffening rib or blade consisting of bundles of "Tampico
fibre laid side by side, and united substantially in the manner and by the means
set forth.
1
Fourthly. The within described mode of forming strips from cords, bundles, or
ribs of "Tampico "fibre, the same consisting in forming the bundles ors into
continuous strips, bringing the same parallel to each other, and then unie hem
by threads extending across and between the 'bundles, and interlocking the same,
substantially as set forth.
Fifthly. The combination in a machine for forming strips from cords, ribs, or
bundles of "Tampico "fibre, of devices for feeding a series of bundles or ribs side by
side, and appliances whereby binding threads are carried across and between the
ribs and interlocked, substantially as set forth.
وو
Sixthly. The combination in a machine for uniting ribs or bundles of "Tampico
fibres, of appliances constructed to feed such ribs across a shuttle race, a shuttle
and devices for reciprocating the same, a series of needles and appliances whereby
they are reciprocated between the bundles or ribs, substantially as set forth.
Seventhly. The combination with the frame A provided with a shuttle race to
receive a shuttle B, of an arm or frame carrying a service of needles, a channelled
plated through which to pass a series of ribs, feed rollers E, E, a thread carrier C,
and appliances for reciprocating the needles and thread carrier, and for operating
the feed devices, substantially as set forth.
Eightbly. The improvement described in the inanufacture of corsets, consisting
in inserting Tampico" ribs between the sheets of fabric and sewing along the edge
of each rib, and then Hattening and condensing each section prior to uniting it to
the other sections of the corset, substantially as set forth.
Ninthly. The improvement in the manufacture of corsets, consisting in inserting
the stiffening ribs in each section, and then subjecting the latter to heat and pressure
before uniting it to the other sections, substantially as set forth.
In witness whereof, I, the said Edwin Powley Alexander, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Thirteenth day of October, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and eighty one."
EDWIN P. ALEXANDER. (L.S.)