MARKINERY FAR SEWING AND STITCHING
Year: 1864

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to George Philip Gee, of No. 6, Wright's Road, North
Bow, and William Henry Gosling, of No. 5, Kenilworth Road, Victoria
Park, both in the County of Middlesex, Machinists, for the Invention
MARKINERY FAR SEWING AND STITCHING."
Sealed the 16th August 1864, and dated the 22nd February 1864.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said George Philip Gee and
William Henry Gosling at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents,
with their Petition, on the 22nd February 1864.
We, GEORGE PHILIP GEE, of No. 6, Wright's Road, North Bow, and
WILLIAM HENRY GOSLING, of No. 5, Kenilworth Road, Victoria Park, both
in the County of Middlesex, Machinists, do hereby declare the nature of the
said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY FOR SEWING AND STITCHING,"
to be as follows:-
These improvements relate to certain machinery adapted to the sewing or
stitching of what is technically called whip stitching or button-hole stitches,
sewing over the edges of the material, and forming on such edges what is also
technically called a pearl stitch.
Chapter 1.-The motion given to the machine is through the handle on the
fly wheel A, Sheet 2, Fig. 1, or a pulley may be placed on the main shaft B,.
at the same place as the fly wheel, for working it with power or the treadle.
This main shaft passes through a bushing at the point C, and also has another
bearing at D, Sheet 1, Fig. 1, on the outer end of the arm of the machine;

page_text: beyond this is an over neck on the shaft B, on which is affixed a pinion E and
crank plate F, into which is a crank pin G, set at a proper distance from the
centre of the shaft, to effect the upward and downward strokes of the needle
slide H, on the back of which is affixed a differential slot plate I, for the
purpose of causing a dwell on the needle slide when it is at its highest point.
The pinion F works into and transmits motion to the wheel J, being twice
the diameter of the pinion, giving one revolution of the counter shaft K to two
of the main shaft B. On this counter shaft K is affixed two tappet cams L
and M. The cam L is for the purpose of rising the pressure foot, and the
cam M is for operating on the transferring oscillating needle bar N, oscillating
on the face of the needle slide on the pin O. The motion given to the pressure
foot is a lifting, advancing, falling, and receding motion, which is effected by
the cam L actuating on the curve on the pressure bar P to lift it off the cloth
while the spiral spring Q pulls it back again on to the cloth. The backward
movement given to the feed is by means of the small stud R on the face of the
wheel J, working against a cam piece on the side-of-the-pressure-bar, which
presses it forward at a given distance. This bar passes through a slot on the
lower part of the arm Q', Q, Q', and works freely through that slot without a
fulcrum pin, but works against a curved shoulder at certain periods of its
movement, instead of a fulcrum pin, so that-an advanced motion at the upper
part of the pressure bar would-be the opposite at its lower end, whero the
pressure foot is affixed, and feeding in the direction of the back of the machine.
When the cam I again lifts the bar and foot off the cloth, the advancing motion
is caused by the cross spiral spring Q effecting the two objects of pulling the
bar forward and downward. On the lower end of the oscillating needle bar N
is attached a clip or "pliers" N', for the purpose of picking up the needle N³
and transferring it from the hole S in the throat plate S' to and over the edge
of the cloth. This transferring needle movement is effected by the cam M
working against the disc T intervening between the cam and oscillating bar 'N,
while the return movement is caused by the pressure of the spring U, which is
attached to the face of the needle slide, as shewn in Fig. 1, Sheet 1. The
whole of the before-mentioned machinery and the peculiarity of the move-
ments are to effect the feed. Also the movements for picking up the free
needle, and transferring it from the hole S in the throat plate to and over the
edge of the cloth will be referred to hereafter.
Chapter 2. We will now proceed to describe those parts of the apparatus
which are to work the needle under the machine, transferring it from the cloth
to the throat S from right to left, the effect of the combination of the two
needle slides working in consort is to pass the needle down through the cloth

page_text: by the upper needle slide and clip, then take it through by the under needle
slide and clip, and convey it to and push it up through the throat hole, when
the upper needle "clip" or "pliers" and slide takes hold of and transfers it
from left to right, and then over and down through the cloth, and so on for
any number of stitches in succession. Motion is conveyed from the shaft B
to a vertical shaft B', Sheet 2, Fig. 1, by means of the bevil pinion working
into the bevil wheel on the shaft B' (this motion being as two is to one). On
the lower end of this vertical shaft is affixed a cam block V, on the periphery
of which is cut a grooved cam for the purpose of actuating the lower needle
slide through the medium of the lever W working into the cam groove (at one
end), and the other end actuating the slide and lower needle ". clip" or
"pliers X, but this lever works on a fulcrum pin Y for the transverse move-
ment of the lower needle "clip" or "pliers" and slide, and another fulcrum
pin Y for the up-and-down motions of the same.
The slide is kept parallel
by means of the guide piece Z, and the slot and pin at the end of the lever
attached to the slide Z; these guide pieces, lower needle bar, and "clip" or
"pliers" play freely in a transverse direction on the stationary back plate a by
means of the two pins working freely in the two slots b, b, which are shown in
detail, Fig. 3, Sheet 1; this stationary back plate a is fastened on to the
under side of and projects down from the platform to receive the whole of the
under needle slide movement. The reciprocating movement to the under
needle slide (up and down) is given, as before stated, by the cain groove, but
the transverse movement for transferring the needle from right to left from the
cloth to the throat hole is given by means of undulations marked c, c, forming
another cam on the edge of the cam block working against an extended part
of the lever W. It will here be necessary to describe the combined action of
the two needle slides above and below the platform. The upper slide above
the platform, with its radiating bar and "clip" or "pliers," at its lower end
takes the needle and thread down through the cloth; it is then caught hold
of by the lower clip or pliers X, pulled through by the same, and then the
transferring movement of the needle slide takes it immediately under and up
through the hole in the throat plate S, the upper needle, with its "clip" or
"pliers," having received its transverse motion from right to left, is ready in
the throat hole to receive the needle as it comes up, and after clipping it and
drawing the needle through the throat hole transfers the needle to the edge of
the cloth for another stitch, and so on to any number of stitches. The object
being to take a frce needle and thread, pass it down through the cloth, when
the under "needle "clip" or "pliers" takes hold of it, and after pulling it
through, transfers it to and up the hole S, when it is again taken hold of by the

page_text: top needle "clip" or "pliers,” and transferred over and down through the edge
of the cloth, thus playing with a needle and thread the same as the hand would
in making stitches. There is a peculiarity in the difference between the
motion of the upper and under clips for taking hold of the needle. The upper
"needle "clip" or "pliers" has a shoulder pressing on the top end of the needle
for thrusting it into and through the cloth, and also into the under "clip" or
"pliers," the jaws of which are opened by the force of the needle, but the
opening of these jaws is effected by the cam d and rod e pulling the jaw back
every time to release the needle.
Chapter 3.- Having now described the use of the upper and lower needle
slides and "clips" or "pliers," it will be necessary to describe the next move-
ment to produce a button-hole stitch.
A rotary movement is given to a "twist wheel "f, as shewn in plan of
under view of machine, Fig. 4, Sheet 2. This motion is taken from the
crank ping on the under side of the cam block V, and-conveyed-to-another
crank pin h on the under side of the wheel i by means of the connecting
rod j, j; this wheel works into a pinion termed an intermediate pinion k, and
then connected and working into another pinion of the same diameter of the
former, which is affixed to the shaft and axis of the-twist wheel.f. This twist
wheel runs the reverse way of the-cam- block and shaft B, but in order to
reverse the motion thus conveyed through the connecting rod j, j, I use a stud
in the centre of this connecting rod, working into a slot on the stationary
block m, so that when the two cranks revolve the connecting rod becomes a
lever with a variable fulcrum, thereby preventing the two connections from
setting on a dead centre. This "twist wheel," as before described, has a hook
marked n sliding on one of the arms advancing and receding in a direction to
or from the axis for the purpose of catching (or what is technically called
picking "up") the "loop" formed by the raising of the needle and pulling the
thread through the cloth, and conveying the superfluous end of the thread (the
reverse end of that which is through the eye of the needle) and laying on or
in a groove near the periphery of the twist wheel ready for the succeeding
stitch. This hook n is advanced beyond the line of the periphery, or taken
back towards the centre. by means of the combined action of the cam piece ó
and the pin p.on the hook side in connection with the small spiral spring q.
But as the hook n is only required to advance beyond the periphery of the
"twist wheel" once in two revolutions, the cam or spring piece o is. drawn
away (by its own tension) from coming into contact with the pin p; the cam r
on the upper surface of the stud. wheel i presses it nearer the "twist wheel
for the purpose of pushing the hook out once in every other revolution.
"

page_text: Chapter 4. The next movements in the machinery necessary in forming
the button-hole stitch are what is termed the "twister movements." These
movements are derived from two cams s and t on the shaft B. The several
views are shewn of the "twister" in Figs. 3 and 4, Sheet 1, and are marked
U, U, which represents a small shaft of steel, having at one end a hook in
part resembling a "crochet " book, for the purpose of taking hold of the silk
or twist when in a vertical position, and immediately after it has been pierced
through the cloth, and when the needle is at its lowest. point below tho plat-
form, and a little before the under clip transfers the needle from right to
left under and up through the throat hole S, as before described. This
"crochet" hook, after laying hold of the thread, recedes in an horizontal
direction from the needle about ths of an inch, but when or nearly at a point
of rest it receives a twisting motion of one-half a turn. It now advances, but
during this advancement the twister receives a rotary movement in the same
direction as before another quarter turn, making in all three-quarters of a
turn forming a loop in the thread. There is now a short pause to this
"twister," and it commences to turn another quarter revolution in the same
direction, but while so doing it recedes again from the needle about one-fourth
of an inch; it is then turned one revolution in the reverse direction, advancing
slightly at the same time towards the needle, and then makes an advance up
to the thread and takes up another loop, as before described. All these
movements are produced by the combined action of the cams s and t in con-
nection with the levers, quadrant movement v, and free pinion 2. The cam t
actuates the sliding bar a, coming into contact with the lever y, which works
on a fulcrum pin z. At the other end it works into two fast collars a¹, a¹, on
the back end of the twister shaft. This serves to advance and recede the
twister in an horizontal direction, precisely as the curves in the cam t dictates,
following all the movements as before described. The rotary movement is
given to the "twister shaft" by means of the cams operating against the
pendant lever 61, suspended on the pin c¹, connected at one end by the rod d'
to the quadrant movement v, which actuates the free pinion w running free on
a "feather" affixed into the "twister shaft" u, with a corresponding slot in
the free pinion w, so that at whatever point the twister shaft may be traversed
the quadrant movement v gives motion to the free pinion w for the purpose of
effecting the movements previously described, so that the continued actions
of the horizontal and circular motions of the "twister shaft" produces when
moving in the two directions at once a spiral movement of the hook.
Chapter 5.-The next operation is to finish the stitch by means of what is
termed the "tightener," which works in conjunction with the twister."

page_text: This tightener is in the form of a bevel hook, and marked e' in plan, Fig. 3,
Sheet 2, and Fig. 3, Sheet 1, and is actuated by the cam f¹ on the shaft B',
which actuates a lever g¹ working on a fulcrum pin h. This lever has at its
other end and under the needle a rectangular extension piece i¹, which
actuates the "tightener "hook, as previously described. The motions and
purposes of this "tightener" are as follows:-The action given to the
"tightener hook" e' is that when the needle is passing down through the
cloth the hook of the "tightener " comes into contact with the needle below
the eye, the needle operating as a guide to the inclined plane on the front face
of the hook, so that pressure is given against the needle, the hook slips behind,
and around the same through the medium of the spring j", and there stops
until the stitch is ready to be tightened.
Chapter 6. Having now described the several parts of the machine, and
also the source from which each motion is obtained, and the connections
_thence to the points of action, we will now proceed to describe in detail the
manner in which these several movements before described operate-in-forming.
a stitch suitable for working the edges of button holes.
"
The needle is first threaded with a length of silk sufficient for one or more
button holes; it is then placed between the jaws of the top. "clip" or "pliers"
N¹ at the bottom of the oscillating needle bar N. The motion of the needle
slide then moves in a downward direction, pierces. the cloth, when the needle
projects below the platform, but before the needle enters the lower "clip" or
'pliers " X the hook e' of the tightener advances by the means before
described towards the needle, slipping the hook around and beyond the needle
and thread, so that when the needle descends it leaves the thread in the hook
(or, in other words, the thread behind the hook). One great peculiarity is
that the book could not be passed behind the thread without the needle acted
as a harder medium for the hook to press against; after that the needle is
drawn down, the thread is in the position intended. The needle now bas
entered the lower "clip" or "pliers," which descends, pulling the needle from
the jaws of the upper "clip" or pliers, and partially through the cloth, when
it receives a slight upward movement similar to the motion of the needle of
the shuttle machine, for the purpose of forming a "bow" or "loop" in the
thread. The next operation is that the hook n on the twist wheel is brought
into contact with this loop, and carrying it through the tension clip k³ as
shewn in plan, Fig. 3, Sheet 2. There is a peculiarity in the form of this
hook n, and the tension clip k¹, to prevent the inner sides of the latter injuring
the thread during its passage through it, and provides that after the hook has
passed through that the "clip" shall lay hold of the thread and cause a

page_text: certain and necessary amount of tension on that part of the thread which
remains and is not carried away by the hook n, which only carries away the
superfluous end of the thread, and lays it around the "twist wheel" trough
ready for the succoeding stitch. While this hook is passing around on the
periphery of the "twist wheel" the needle is descending or being pulled
through) to its lowest point by the lower needle "clip" or "pliers " X, leaving
the thread stretched and in a vertical line between the cloth and the eye of
the needle, while the other end is held by the "tension clip," as before
described. The crochet hook u on the end of the twister shaft, as described
in Chapter 4, where the bevel part of the nosó of the twister comes into
contact with the thread, which slips behind the heel of the hook; then the
needle performs a movement from right to left, transferring it immediately.
under the hole in the throat plate S, at the same time the twister shaft u is
receding backward with the thread to its terminal point, when at the same
time the needle is being pushed up through the hole S in the throat plate
to supply the twister with thread, but this thread must pass over a bridge-piece
to keep it parallel with the "twister shaft" while it is receding.. The
"twister" now gives a half turn by means of tho quadrant, movement and
free pinion described in Chapter 4; while this half turn is being performed
the needle is entering the jaws of the upper "clip" or "pliers "N through
the hole in the throat plate St, and ascends to its highest point, at the same
time the "twister shaft" advances towards the needle hole in the same ratio
as the needle slide picks up the slack, but while the "twister" is advancing it
gives another quarter turn to the "loop," but the tightener hook is let go
previous to the formation of the before-mentioned quarter twist, pulling up
what is technically termed the "pearl" of the stitch to the edge of the
material. By the motion of the top oscillating needle bar the needle is
transported over the cloth for the next downward stroke of the needle, the
feed in the meantime having moved the material to the required distance for
another stitch. The twister during this time is immediately under the needle
and in a state of rest with the thread around the hook, and presenting a loop
by being around the heel of the "twister," and up and around the "tightener
hook;" the needle now descends the second time through the cloth, and then
through the loop. The tightener e' then returns back, as before described,
behind and around the needle and thread, and thereby partially releases the
"loop" from the nose of the "twister," the "twister " at the same time turning
another quarter of a revolution in the same direction as before described, and
simultaneously with the above movements receding from the needle about one-
fourth of an inch, when the needle at this juncture is entering the bottom "clip"

page_text: or pliers X to be pulled down, and while the needle is going down the "twister"
is being turned one whole revolution in the reverse direction (minus the thread),
when it again advances for the thread, as before described, for the formation
of another stitch, so that one stitch in its formation interlocks into another
stitch, and so on for any number of stitches.. But in order to make what is
technically termed the "true button-hole stitch" we have only to reverse the
motion of the twister, which will turn the loop in the contrary direction, and
at the same time feeding in the opposite direction, and the true button-hole
stitch is effected.
We do not confine ourselves to the precise arrangement of parts for pro-
ducing the various movements, as they inay be varied and rendered more
simple.
What
alaim
CLAIM.
now and of our Invention is the combination and
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said George Philip Gee and William Henry Gosling in the Great
Seal Patent Office on the 22nd August 1864.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, wc, GEORGE
PHILIP GEE, of No. 6, Wright's Road, North Bow, and WILLIAM HENRY
GOSLING, of No. 5, Kenilworth Road, Victoria Park, both in the County of
Middlesex, Machinists, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-second day of February, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-four, in the twenty year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto us, the
said George Philip Gee and William Henry Gosling, Her special licence
that we, the said George Philip Gee and William Henry Gosling, our
executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as we, the said George
Philip Gee and William Henry Gosling, our executors, administrators, and
assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and
at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully

page_text: might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for
"IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY FOR SEWING AND STITCHING," upon the condition
(amongst others) that we, the said George Philip Gee and William Henry
Gosling, our executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing
under our, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly
describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner
the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great
Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the
date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that we, the said George Philip Gee and William
Henry Gosling, do hereby declare the nature of our said Invention, and in
what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement:-
These improvements relate to certain machinery adapted to the sewing or
stitching of what is technically called whip "stitching," or button-hole stitches,
sewing over the edges of the material, and forming on such edges what is also
technically called a pearl "stitch."
Chapter 1. The motion given to the machine is through the handle on
the fly wheel A, Sheet 2, Fig. 1; or a pulley may be placed on the main
shaft B, at the same place as the fly wheel for working it with power or the
treadle. This main shaft passes through a bushing at the point C, and also
has another bearing at D, Sheet 1, Fig. 1, on the outer end of the arm of the
machine; beyond this is an over neck on the shaft B, on which is affixed a
pinion E and crank plate F, into which is a crank pin G, set at a proper
distance from the centre of the shaft to effect the upward upward and downward
stroke of the needle slide H, on the back of which is affixed a differential slot
plate I, for the purpose of causing a dwell on the needle slide when it is at
its highest point. The pinion F works into and transmits motion to the
wheel J, being twice the diameter of the pinion, giving one revolution of the
countershaft K to two of the main shaft B. On this countershaft K is
affixed two tappet cams L'and M; the cam L is for the purpose of raising
the pressure foot, and the cam M is for operating on the transferring
oscillating needle bar N, oscillating on the face of the needle slide on the
pin O. The motion given to the pressure foot is a lifting, advancing, falling,
and receding motion, which is effected by the cam L actuating on the curve
on the pressure bar P to lift it off the cloth, while the spiral spring Q pulls it
back again on to the cloth. The backward movement given to the feed is
by means of the small stud R on the face of the wheel J, working against a.

page_text: .
cam piece on the side of the pressure bar, which presses it forward at a given
distance. This bar passes through a slot on the lower part of the arm Q',
Q, Q, and works freely through that slot without a fulcrum pin, but works
against a curved shoulder at certain periods of its movement instead of a
fulcrum pin, so that an advanced motion at the upper part of the pressure bar
would be the opposite at its lower end where the pressure foot is affixed, and
feeding in the direction of the back of the machine. When the cam I again
lifts the bar and foot off the cloth, the advancing motion is caused by the
cross spiral spring Q effecting the two objects of pulling the bar forward and
downward. On the lower end of the oscillating needle bar N is attached a
"clip" or "pliers" N₁, for the purpose of picking up the needle N³, and
transferring it from the hole S in the throat plate S to and over the edge of
the cloth. This transferring needle movement is effected by the cam M
working against the disc T, intervening between the cam and oscillating
bar N, while the return movement is caused by the pressure of the spring U,
which is attached to the face of the needle-slide, as shewn in Figure-1, Sheet-1.
The whole of the last-mentioned machinery and the peculiarity of the
movements are to effect the feed; also the movements for picking up the
free needle and transferring it from the hole S in the throat plate to and over
the edge of the cloth will be referred-to-hereafter...
down through the cloth,
Motion is conveyed from
Chapter 2-We. will..now proceed to describe those parts of the apparatus
which are to work the needle under the machine, transferring it from the
cloth to the throat S from right to left, the effect of the combination of
the two needle slides working in consort is to pass the needle down through the
cloth by the upper needle slide and clip, then take it through by the under
needle slide and clip and convey it to and push it up through the throat hole,
when the upper needle clip or pliers" and slide takes hold of and
transfers it from left to right, and then over and
and so on for any number of stitches in succession.
the shaft B to a vertical shaft B¹, Sheet 2, Fig. 1, by means of the bevil
pinion working into the bevil wheel on the shaft B' (this motion being as two
is to one). On the lower end of this vertical shaft is affixed a cam block V,
on the periphery of which is cut a grooved cam for the purpose of actuating
the lower needle slide through the medium of the lever W working into the
cam groove (at one end), and the other end actuating the slide and lower
needle "clip" or "pliers "X, but this lever works on a fulcrum pin Y, for
the transverse movement of the lower needle "clip or "pliers" and slide, and
another fulcrum pin Y' for the up-and-down motion of the same. The.slide
is kept parallel by means of the guide piece Z, and the slot and pin at the

page_text: end of the lever attached to the slide Z. These guide pieces, lower needle
bar, "clip," or "pliers," play freely in a transverse direction on the stationary
back plate a by means of the two pins working freely in the two slots b, b,
which are shown in detail Figure 3, Sheet 1; this stationary back plate a¹ is
fastened on to the under side of and projects down from the platform to
receive the whole of the under needle slide movement. The reciprocating
movement to the under needle slide (up and down) is given as before stated
by the cam groove, but the transverse movement for transferring the needle
from right to left from the cloth to the throat hole is given by means of
undulations marked c, c, forming another cam on the edge of the cam block,
working against an extended part of the lever W.
It will here be necessary to describe the combined action of the two needle
slides above and below the platform. The upper slide above the platform, with
its radiating bar and "clip" or "pliers" at its lower end, takes the needle and
thread down through the cloth, it is then caught hold of by the lower clip or
pliers X, pulled through by the same, and then the transferring movement of
the needle slide takes it immediately under and up through the hole in the
throat plate S; the upper needle with its "clip" or "pliers" having received
its transverse motion from right to left is ready in the throat hole to receive
the needle as it comes up, and after clipping it, drawing the needle through
the throat hole, transfers the needle to the edge of the cloth for another
stitch, and so on to any number of stitches, the object being to take a free
needle and thread, pass it down through the cloth, when the under "needlo
clip" or "pliers" takes hold of it, and after pulling it through transfers it to
and up the hole S, when it is again taken hold of by the top needle "clip"
or "pliers" and transferred over and down through the edge of the cloth,
thus playing with a needle and thread the same as the band would in making
stitches. There is a peculiarity in the difference between the motion of the
upper and under clips for taking hold of the needle; the upper needle "clip"
or "pliers" has a shoulder pressing on the top end of the needle for thrusting
it into and through the cloth, and also into the under "clip" or "pliers," the
jaws of which are opened by the force of the needle, but the opening of these
jaws is effected by the cam d and rod e, pulling the jaw back every time to
release the needle.
Chapter 3. Having now described the use of the upper and lower needlo
slides and "clips" or "pliers," it will be necessary to describe the next
movement to produce a button-hole stitch.
A rotary movement is given to a "twist" wheel "f, as shewn in plan of under
view of machine, Fig. 4, Sheet 2; this motion is taken from the crank ping,

page_text: on the under side of the cam block V, and conveyed to another crank pin h,
on the under side of the wheel i, by means of the connecting rodj, j; this wheel
works into a pinion, termed an intermediate pinion k, and then is connected
and working into another pinion 7, of the same diameter of the former, which
is affixed to the shaft and axis of the twist wheel f; this twist wheel runs the
reverse way of the cam block and shaft B¹, but in order to reverse the motion
thus conveyed through the connecting rod j, j, I use a stud in the centre of
this connecting rod, working into a slot on the stationary block m, so that
when the two cranks revolve the connecting rod becomes a lever with a
variable fulcrum, thereby preventing the two connections from setting on a
dead centre. This "twist wheel" as before described has a hook marked n
sliding on one of the arms, advancing and receding in a direction to or from
the axis for the purpose of catching (or what is technically called picking
"up") the "loop" formed by the raising of the needle, and pulling the thread
through the cloth, and conveying the superfluous end of the thread (the
reverse end of that which is through the eye of the needle), and laying on or
in a groove near the periphery of the twist wheel ready for the succeeding
stitch. This hook n is advanced beyond the line of the periphery, or taken
back towards the centre, by means of the combined action of the cam piece o,
and the pin p on the hook slide in connection with the small spiral spring 7;
but as the hook n is only required to advance beyond the periphery of the
"twist wheel" once in two revolutions, the cam or spring pieco o is drawn
away (by its own tension) from coming into contact with the pin p; the
cam on the upper surface of the stud wheel i presses it nearer the "twist
wheel" for the purpose of pushing the hook out once in every other revolution.
Should it be found necessary to take up the slack of the thread caused by the
needle descending through the cloth, in order to prevent its entanglement with
the needle, or to prevent the needle from piercing the thread in its descent, a
small lever and hook can be applied, actuated on by a cam arrangement to
keep the thread out of the way of the needle as it descends.
Chapter 4. The next movements in the machinery necessary in forming
the button-hole stitch are what is termed the "twister movements." These
movements are derived from two cams s and t on the shaft B. The several
views are shewn of the "twister" in Figs. 3 and 4, Sheet 1, and are marked
u, u, which represents a small shaft of steel, having at one end a hook in part
resembling a "crochet "hook, for the purpose of taking hold of the silk or
twist when in a vertical position, and immediately after it has been pierced
through the cloth, and when the needle is at its lowest point below the plat-
form, and a little before the under clip a transfers the needle from right to

page_text: left, under and up through the throat hole S, as before described. This
"crochet" hook, after laying hold of the thread, recedes' in 'an horizontal
direction from the needle about ths of an inch, but when or nearly at a point
of rest it receives a twisting motion of one-half a turn. It now advances,
but during this advancement the twister receives a rotary movement in the
same direction as before (another quarter turn), making in all three-quarters
of a turn, forming a loop in the thread. There is now a short pause to this
"twister," and it commences to turn another quarter revolution in the same
direction, but while so doing it recedes again from the needle about one-
fourth of an inch; it is then turned one revolution in the reverse direction
(advancing slightly at the same time) towards the needle, and then makes an
advance up to the thread and takes up another loop, as before described.
All these movements are produced by the combined action of the cams
s and t, in connection with the levers, quadrant movement v, and free pinion
w. The cam t actuates the sliding bar a coming into contact with the lever y,
which works on a fulcrum pin z. At the other end it works into two fast
collars a¹, a', on the back end of the twister shaft. This serves to advance
and recede the twister in an horizontal direction precisely as the curves in the
can t orders, following all the movements, as before described. The rotary
movement is given to the "twister shaft" by means of the cams operating
against the pendant lever suspended on the pin c', connected at one end by
the rod d¹ to the quadrant movement v, which actuates the free pinion w
running free on a "feather affixed into the "twister shaft," with a corre-
sponding slot in the free pinion w, so that at whatever point the twister shaft
may be traversed, the quadrant movement v gives motion to the free pinion w.
for the purpose of effecting the movements previously described, so that the
continued actions of the horizontal and circular motions of the "twister.
shaft" produces, when moving in the two directions. at once, a spiral
movement of the hook.
Chapter 5. The next operation is to finish the stitch by means of what is.
termed the "tightener," which works in conjunction with the "twister." This
tightener is in the form of a bevel hook, and marked e¹ in Fig. 8, Sheet 1,
and Fig. 3, Sheet 2, and is actuated by the cam fi on the shaft B', which
actuates a lever g' working on a fulcrum pin h'. This lever has at its other
end, and under the needle, a rectangular extension piece i', which actuates the
tightener "hook, as previously described. The motions and purposes of
this "tightener" are as follows:-The action given to the "tightener hook"
el is, that when the needle is passing down through the cloth, the hook of the
"tightener" comes into contact with the needle below the eye, the needle

page_text: operating as a guide to the inclined plane on the front face of the hook, so
that pressure is given against the needle, the hook slips bebind and around
the same through the medium of the spring j¹, and there stops until the stitch
is ready to be tightened.
66
Chapter 6. Having now described the several parts of the machine, and
also the source from, which each motion is obtained, and the connections
thence to the points of action, we will now proceed to describe in detail the
manner in which these several movements, before described, operate in
forming a stitch suitable for working the edges of button holes. The needle
is first threaded with a length of silk sufficient for one or more button holes,
it is then placed between the jaws of the top "clip" or "pliers" N', at the
bottom of the oscillating needle bar N. The needle slide then moves in a
downward direction, pierces the cloth, when the needle projects below the
platform-;-but-before-the-needle_enters the lower "clip" or "pliers" ✗, the
hooke of the tightener advances by the means before described towards
the needle, slipping the hook around and beyond the needle and thread, so
that when the needle descends it leaves the thread in the hook (or, in other
words, the thread behind the hook). One great peculiarity in this is, that tho
hook could not be passed behind the thread without the needle acted as a
harder medium for the hook to press against; after that the needle is drawn
down the thread is in the position intended. The needle now has entered
the lower clip or pliers," which descends, pulling the needle from the
jaws of the upper "clip" or "pliers," and partially through the cloth, when it
receives a slight upward movement similar to the motion of the needle of the
shuttle machine, for the purpose of forming a "bow" or "loop" in the
thread. The next operation is, that the hook n on the twist wheel is brought
into contact with this loop and carrying it through the tension clip k', as
shewn in Plan, Fig. 3, Sheet 2. There is a peculiarity in the form of this
hook n and the tension clip ¹ to prevent the inner sides of the latter injuring
the thread during its passage through it, and provides that after the hook has
passed through, that the "clip" shall lay hold of the thread and cause a
certain and necessary amount of tension on that part of the thread which
remains and is not carried away by the hook n, which only carries away the
superfluous end of the thread and lays it around the "twist wheel" trough
ready for the succeeding stitch. While this hook is passing around on the
periphery of the "twist wheel," the needle is descending (or being pulled
through) to its lowest point by the lower needle "clip or pliers X, leaving
the thread stretched and in a vertical line between the cloth and the eye of
the needle, while the other end is held by the "tension clip," as before

page_text: described. The crochet hook u on the end of the twister shaft, as described
in Chapter 4, where the bevel part of the nose of the twister comes into
contact with the thread which slips behind the heel of the hook, then the
needle performs a movement from right to left transferring it immediately
under the hole in the throat plate S¹, at the same time the twister shaft u is
receding backward with the thread to its terminal point, when at the same
time the needle is being pushed up through the hole S in the throat plate to
supply the twister with thread, but this thread must pass over a bridge-piece
to keep it parallel with the "twister shaft" while it is receding. The
"twister" now gives a half turn by means of the quadrant movement and
free pinion, described in Chapter 4. While this half turn is being performed
the needle is entering the jaws of the upper "clip" or "pliers" N¹ through
the hole in the throat plate S', and ascends to its highest point, at the same
time the "twister shaft" advances towards the needle hole in the same ratio
as the needle slide picks up the slack, but while the twister is advancing it
gives another quarter turn to the "loop," but the tightener hook is let go pre-
vious to the formation of the before-mentioned quarter twist pulling up what
is technically termed the "pearl" of the stitch to the edge of the material.
By the motion of the top oscillating needle bar the needle is transferred over
the cloth for the next downward stroke of the needle, the feed in the mean-
time having moved the material to the required distance for another stitch.
The twister during this time is immediately under the needle, and in a state of
rest with the thread around the hook, and presenting a loop by being around
the heel of the "twister" and up and around the "tightener hook." The needle
now descends the second time through the cloth, and then through the loop.
The tightener e' then returns back, as before described, behind and around
the needle and thread, and thereby partially releases the "loop" from the nose
of the "twister," the "twister" at the same time turning another quarter of
a revolution in the same direction, as before described, and simultaneously
with the above movements receding from the needle about one-fourth of au
inch, when the needle at this juncture is entering the bottom "clip" or
"pliers "X to be pulled down, and while the needle is going down the
"twister" is being turned one whole revolution in the reverse direction
(minus the thread), when it again advances for the thread, as before
described, for the formation of another stitch, so that one stitch in its forma-
tion interlocks into another stitch, and so on for any number of stitches.
But in order to make what is technically termed the "true button-hole
stitch," we have only to reverse the motion of the twister, which will turn the

page_text: loop in the contrary direction, and at the same time feeding in the opposite
direction, and the true button-hole stitch is effected.
Having described the nature of our Invention, and in what manner the
same is or may be performed,, we wish it to be understood that we do not
confine ourselves to the precise arrangement of parts as herein described and
delineated, as they may be varied as the altered form of the machine may
render necessary without departing from the nature of our Invention. What
we claim as new is,―
Firstly, the twister movement, with its free pinion and feather in connection
with the quadrant, for producing the twisting motion of the hook at the same
time as the horizontal reciprocating movement of the twister shaft is being
carried out by the action of the cam, sliding bar and collars, as fully described
in Chapter 4, and shewn in the Drawings.
Secondly, the tightener movement, which works in conjunction with the
twister and needle for tightening the stitch, as fully set forth in Chapter 5,
and shewn in the Drawings.
And, thirdly, the general arrangement and combination of parts as herein-
before described.
In witness whereof, wc, the said George Philip Gee and William Henry
Gosling, have hereunto set our hands and seals, this Twenty-second
day of August, in the year of our Lord One thousand eiglit hundred
and sixty-four.