AN IMPROVED SYSTEM OF DRESS CUTTING
Year: 1885

page_text: "
SARAH ANNE COOKE, Teacher of Dress Cutting 295 Oxford St London W.
in the County of Middlesex do hereby declare the nature of my invention for
AN IMPROVED SYSTEM OF DRESS CUTTING to be as follows:-
In this system of Dress Cutting 4 pieces are used called respectively the
"Square" "Oval "Triangle" & "Arm Scale."
The "Square" measures 1ft 9 by 10 inches It is marked off on its left & lower
sides in all their length in of an inch forming an angle or L rule, The right
side is marked with a scale in correct proportion for the width of any bust
measurement for one front from 15 inches to 54 inches, Upon its surface is
printed a diagram of the correct size of breast pleats, required for any variation
necessary in busts & waists from 16 inches to 40 inches in waist measures, & from
30 inches to 55 inches in bust measures. Also a diagram of the correct width at
the waist for the back for the same number of variations, A small diagram of the
body plan of the system is also printed on the face of the square. The "Oval "
measures 1 foot 4 inches by 62 inches, Upon it is a scale in correct proportion for
the size of the back & front neck curves. The edges are cycloidal lines suitable for
the seams of a garment, & the portions to be used for the various seams are marked
upon it.
The "Triangle contains angles of 90°, 60°, & 30°, also, upon it are printed the
lines which constitute the stationary or base lines of the system, it has also a scale
to mark off the neck size from 7 to 19 inches, in front drafting, The hypothenuse
terminates at the angle of 30°, in a cycloidal line, portions of which are used for
various seams.
The Arm Scale is graduated on a scale of measurements, from a 9 inch to a
24 inch length of sleeve both for inside & outside seams, All the measurements
& divisions in this system are guaranteed to be absolutely accurate, & have been
tabulated from diagram calculations, à drawing shewing all these pieces, is
deposited herewith.
A Book of instruction forms part of the system, it contains diagrams of all the
newest modes of cutting out, the instructions are plainly given so that any one
may easily learn the use of the various scales & measures-All the above are
printed, & transferred on to suitable material for use.
The improvements claimed for this system are 1st The "Oval" 2nd The
"Triangle 3rd The "Arm Scale" 4th The system of measurements, 5th The
3 divisions on the bust scale 6th The table of breast pleats, 7th The table of the
back width at waist, 8th The book of instruction 9th The diagram sheets
10th The childs calculator.

page_text: An Improved System of Dress Cutting.
SARAH ANNE COOKE Teacher of Dress-Cutting 295 Oxford St. London W. in
the County of Middlesex do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in
what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement:-
"
In this system of dress cutting, four pieces are used, called respectively the
"Square" "Oval," "Triangle," & "Arm Scale."
The "Square" measures 1 ft 9 in by 10 in, It is marked off on its left and
lower sides in all their length, in ths of an inch, forming an angle, or L rule,
The right side is marked with a scale in correct proportion for the width of any
Bust measurement for one Front, from 15 in, to 54 in, Upon its surface is printed
a diagram of the correct size of breast pleats required for any variation necessary
for Busts & Waists from 16 in, to 40 in, in waist measures and from 30 in, to
55 inches, in Bust measures, Also, a diagram of the correct width at the waist for
the line for the back, for the same number of variations. A small diagram of the
body plan of the System, is also printed on the face of the "Square."
The Oval," measures one foot 4 in, by 6 & inch Upon it, is a Scale in correct
proportion for the size of the back, & front, neck curves. The edges are cycloidal
lines, suitable for the seams of a garment, & the portions to be used, for the various
seams, are marked upon it. The "Triangle" contains angles of 90°, 60°, & 30°,
Also, upon it are printed the lines which constitute the Stationary or Base lines, of
the System.
It has also a Scale to mark off the neck size from 7 inches to 19 in, in front
drafting The Hypothenuse terminates at the angle of 30°, in a cycloidal line,
portions of which, are used for various seams.
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The Arm Scale," is graduated on a scale of measurements from a 9 in, to a
24 in, length of sleeve, both for inside & outside seams, All the measurements &
divisions are guaranteed to be absolutely accurate, & have been tabulated from
diagram calculations. Drawing's shewing all these pieces have been deposited.
The various Scales used are printed, & transferred onto suitable material for use.
Method of drafting the Back of a dress. Place the "Triangle" in the top corner
of the paper nearest to you, keeping the square edges level with the paper. Mark
with a pencil through the holes at the lines "A & B," Neck line, &
"Back
Shoulder line," take the "Square" & draw a straight line down its edge, from
the mark made for line A, another across the top, for line B, one for the "Neck
line" & one for the "Shoulder line," (as given in diagram) measure with the long
side of the "Square" (containing the inches) the back length from the neck line;
allow a slope at the waist line for the spring in the Back, then refer to the
calculator on the "Square" for the width of the waist at the back, which width
is devided & spaces left, to form the seams (according to the fashions).
Before moving the scale, draw these measures across the bottom of the scale, &
from the slope allowed at the waist draw the Back seam, up to the neck line next
measure up from the Waist line, the under arm length, & draw a line from this
mark across the paper, on this line measure from the Back seam, the width of half
back bust & the same number of inches which have been allowed at the waist to

page_text: form the seams, must be again marked beyond the Back bust measure & from
this mark, the under-arm scain, is drawn straight down to the outside of waist
line, Next, the Neck 'curve is drawn, with the "Oval," placing the arrow on the
Neck line, & touching line B with number of the neck measure draw a curved line
from the arrow to the measure.
To draw the Shoulder. Take the "Square," & place the 1 inch at the top of
neck with the figure 7 resting on the shoulder line (this gives the correct angle
for any measure of shoulder under 7 inches), and draw the length an inch longer
than the measure taken, (so that ease may be given across the back).
Now put in the Arm hole Curvo. Take the "Oval" & at that part marked
"Curve for Armholes," place the arrow at the Shoulder point, & allow the "Oval "
to touch the dot on the Back bust measure then draw about two thirds of the
Armhole Curve, from shoulder, (or whatever may suit a ladys taste) Carry across
from this point a straight line, and measure the same number of inches allowed at
the waist for seams, from this mark finish the Armhole curve, to the top of the line
drawn for the under arm seam Turn the Oval plain side uppermost & place the
bottom curve, at the portion of Waist line left for the side piece, & touch the
smallest piece of Armhole curve, & draw a line from this point to the waist.
same curve to be again used in like manner, from the other piece of Armhole curve,
to Waist line for back.
The
A line must now be drawn from the slope at the waist, (double the waist line
length) towards the bottom of the paper, & 1 inch outside line A, from this point
mark again across the paper, the saine number of inches drawn from the waist, &
allow beyond this mark, the number of inches allowed on the waist line to form
seams, from which mark, draw a curved line up to the waist, with either the
"Triangle" or the "Oval" (suited to the figure) this line is called the Hip curve.
To complete the Back, draw a straight line from the curve at the side piece,
towards the bottom of the paper, & one to meet it from the back waist, as in
diagram shown on "Square."
دو
To draft the front of a dress. Place the Triangle at the top corner of the paper,
same as for Back, & with a pencil mark in the holes for A, & B, lines & Front
shoulder line, with the long edge of Square draw from the mark made for line A,
a straight line down the edge of the Square, & one across the top for line B, Also,
one across for the Shoulder line, (as in diagram) from the Shoulder line measure
down on line A, the half arm size, & draw a straight line across the paper for the
Bust line. Again measure down on line A, the under arm length, & draw a straight.
line across the paper for the Waist line Now turn the "Square" round to the long
edge with "Front Bust measure marked on, & place the end with the word
"divisions" level with line A, & on the Bust line make a mark at the number
which indicates the Bust measure, & from this mark, draw a straight line down to
the waist line, This is called the under arm seam Now the Neck curve is put in.
First taking the "Triangle" & placing it in the square corner of lines A, & B, &
mark down on line A, at the figure on the "Triangle," indicating the Neck measure;
on this mark place the arrow at the Neck curve, on the Oval, with the front Neck
measure, touching line B; draw a line from this measure round to the arrow.
Next, take the "Square" & place the 1 inch, at the corner of the Nock line, &
the 7 inches on the Shoulder line, & draw the Shoulder measure the length
required.
This is called
The position for the cord line is obtained by placing the "Square" at the front
length measure, on the top of Neck & Shoulder lines, & allow the point of square to
touch line A, at the position for the waist, (remembering always, to take off the
front length, the measure of the back neck curve (as given on the childrens
calculator) from this mark draw a line to meet the under arm seam,
the "cord line;" on this line the size of the Breast pleats, are marked off, (as
given by the calculator on the square) The distance back of the first breast pleat
from line A, varies from 1 inch to 4 inches, according to a ladies figure. After
marking the size of pleat, draw a curve from dot, to dot, (to avoid confusion),

page_text: Allow from in to 1 inch space between the pleats, & mark 2nd pleat by a curve
from dot, to dot, (see diagrain), Make a mark in the middle of the breast pleats,
& measure up from the cord line, the hight required for pleat, allowing the
2nd pleat to be a of an inch higher than the first; draw a sloped line through
these two marks, from line A, to line C, & one from the point at line C. straight across
to line A. This line is "F" or the actual position, for the fullest part of the Bust.
Now draw the shape of the pleats with the "Triangle" or "Oval " (to suit
figure) & finish the pleats below the waist with the straight edge of the "Square,"
same as shewn on diagram. As 3 inches division must come out, between the
under arm seam, & the last breast pleat, it only requires a mark to be made in the
centre of what you have left, & 1 & inches marked each side, Through these
marks, draw down from the Bust line, two straight lines, & on these lines, measure
up from the "cord line," the under arm gore length, These lines are called C, & D,
On the cord line mark at of an inch each side lines C. & D. & with the "Oval,"
draw curved lines to the top of under arm gore measure, (or straight lines to suit
figure) as shewn in diagram about 6 inches below the cord line make a mark,
between lines C, & D, at the measure for the Hip, & again beyond & again beyond
at the distance for finishing the under arm seam, these curves are drawn usually,
with the "Triangle" sometimes with "Oval" to suit figure),
To know how much curve to put to front of line A, take the "Square" (& get
the half of Bust measure) place the number of inches which is given for the half
back bust, on line A, & measure across to the under arm seam, missing the 3 inches
divisions, (which have to be cut away) & what is required to make up the necessary
half bust measure, is put on outside line A, & half an inch below line "F."
the "Triangle" put the half curve at this mark, touching the cord line; turn the
Triangle plain side uppermost, & again place the Triangle at the position opposite
line "F" & touch the neck, drawing a line.
Take
From the curved line across the Bust line, measure the Chest measure, & put the
front Armhole curve in with the "Oval" in the most suitable position. Finish the
Armhole curve from the under arm gore ineasure on line D, to top of under arm
seam, (always measure the under arm seam in the back to see if the slope has gained)
Front measure, is from the the cord line up line A, towards the top of the neck,
make a mark. And with the Oval plain side uppermost touch the dot, for the front
measure, & turn until about 1 inch of the first neck curve at the Shoulder is seen ;
draw a line round "Oval " from shoulder to "Front measure " on line A. & this
completes the drafting for the front of a dress.
To draft a Sieeve. Mark in the holes at inside curve on the "Arm Scale," & at.
the corresponding numbers on the outside curvo, the length of sleeve (to get the
proper angle for wrist & top of sleeve), Move the scale back, level with level with
the dots for inside curve, & draw a line from mark to mark, next take the
"Square" & measure off the upper half of wrist (which is usually 2 inches larger
than the under half) draw a line from inside curve across by the dot made for the
angle, measure the width of the top the same way allowing 2 inches larger for the
upper half, than is put in the under side, Then place the figure at wrist line
which gives the length of arm & touch with the scale, the dot marked for width of
top, & draw a curve from wrist to same number at top of arm.
A curve is given on top from inside seam, to outside seam, at the proper
measures using the rounded part of the "Arm Scale." The under half is drawn
just the same way only, measuring the wrist, & the width of top, 2 inches less,
than the upper half, & the curve marked for Armholes on the "Oval," is used, to
take out the sloped under part of top. Inside these lengths & widths the fashion
of sleeve is drawn & taken with different curves to suit any shaped arm.
Darts
To draft the top of the Skirt. A slope is taken out half an inch down on the
middle of top of Front breadth, & is drawn at an angle, at distances varying from
1 & inches back to 3 inches back, to suit the waist & figure of the lady.
are then taken out 6 inches down, & are the same size as those used in the bodice, the
general number of darts being 3 on each side, 1st size of breast pleat 2nd half an

page_text: inch larger 3rd the size of two breast pleats added together which large dart forms
the position for the Hip.
The number of these darts may be made more or less to suit every different
shape All these are measured & and drawn with the aquare, & in the same way
as shewn on diagram sheet. To complete the Skirt, the widths & lengths have to
be drawn to measure.
The number of inches required for present style of improver is added on at top
of back breadth, (see diagram).
Having now particularly described & ascertained the nature of my said
invention, & in what manner the same is to be performed, declare that what
I claim, is
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1 The Oval" with it's great variety of curves.
"
2nd The Triangle" with its fixed base lines.
3rd The "Arm Scale" simplified measures.
4th The 3 divisions on the Bust Scale.
5th The Table of "Breast pleats."
6th The Table of the Back width at waist.
7th The Book of Instruction.
8th The Diagram Sheets.
9th The Childs Calculator.
10th The System of Measurements.