Improvements in Embroidery Machines.
Year: 1890

page_text: Date of Application, 19th Nov., 1890
Complete Specification Left, .9th Aug., 1891-Accepted, 17th Oct., 1891
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Embroidery Machines.
I JULES MATHIEU of 5 Rue Mazagran, Paris in the Republic of France,
Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows :-
This invention relates to improvements in that class of embroidering machines for
which a Patent was granted to me dated August 20th 1889, No. 13121, the object
being to permit of the said machines being used for making serpentine and other
trimmings, and for making covered or plain cord trimming, with one or more threads
or cords, and of one or more colors, as well as raised or flat braid, and simul-
taneously attaching them by a chain stitch to the fabrics to be embroidered.
According to this invention, the serpentine trimming is obtained by the use of
mechanism which allows of the thread guides turning first in one direction and then
in the other, without the loop being caught by the second chain stitch, the bobbins
turning and returning from right to left as trimming is produced, the thread guides
laying the embroidery threads in a serpentine form, and the needle thread simul-
taneously attaching them to the work.
In carrying out my invention, I mount loosely, around the bottom of the needle
carrier tube, a screw gear wheel, the boss of which carries four or more pendent
thread guides. This screw wheel receives a reciprocating axial motion from a
similar wheel keyed on a reciprocating shaft carried in bracket bearings on the
head of the machine.
Reciprocating motion is imparted to this shaft through a rock lever from a
peripherically grooved cam or other equivalent means. This grooved cam is
carried on the bracket arm of the machine, and geared with a pinion keyed by a
pressure screw to the main shaft rotating therein. The reciprocating motion thus
obtained is communicated to the thread guides, as axial reciprocation, by the screw
or spiral gear carried respectively by the shaft and the boss to which the thread
guides are attached. The bobbins for supplying the thread guides are carried on
the upper part of the head of the machine by a bracket. In this bracket is a
sleeve surrounding the needle carrier tube, and fitted to it by a feather and groove
connection. This sleeve is fitted with four or more arms carrying bobbins; the
thread from these bobbins is led down the tube or needle carrier to near the bottoni.
where it issues out, and is threaded through the pendent thread guides carried by
the screw wheel before mentioned.
For the purpose of giving rotary motion direct to the thread guides, in place of,
or in combination with the reciprocating axial motion communicated by the
reciprocating shaft, the machine is fitted with the following mechanism :-The
reciprocating shaft passes loosely through a slotted sleeve mounted in a bracket so
as to be capable of rotary motion only, and is coupled to the shaft by a button or
stud. On the end of this sleeve is a double bevil wheel, fixed by a screw to the
sleeve. By slackening this screw, one or other of these bevil wheels may be made
to gear into a bevil wheel on a vertical spindle, the upper end of which carries a
screw spiral wheel in gear with a screw wheel on the shaft of the feed mechanism
in the bracket arm. This wheel may be made fast to its shaft, or run loose, as
required.
The bobbins, which are situated above the machine, follow the movement of the
needle carrier. When the machine is actuated only by the driving shaft, the
bobbins remain stationary. When the needle carrier tube is turned by means
of the handle placed below the table, the bobbins will be carried round by the
feather and groove connection of the tube with their carrier.
For making cord embroidery or edging, whether it be covered or not, two, three,

page_text: four, or a larger number of bobbins, are carried on the machine, and continuous
rotary motion of the thread guides is effected by the pinion driving the grooved
cam which pinion is loosened and slid along the main shaft, and put into gear
with a spur pinion on the boss of the screw wheel carried by the feed shaft. The
screw wheel is then to be loosened from the feed shaft, and by placing one or other
of the two bevil wheels carried by the slotted sleeve into gear with the wheel on
the lower end of the vertical spindle, rotary motion in either direction may be
communicated continuously to the thread guides. Or, by fixing the screw wheel
on the feed shaft by means of a set screw, and driving the grooved cam by the
pinion on the main shaft, as before, rotary motion will be communicated in either
direction simultaneously with every change in the direction of the feed mechanism.
By removing the nozzle, and substituting nozzles suited to this kind of work, I
am enabled to produce flat or raised braid.
Dated this 19th day of November 1890.
NEWTON & SON,
Agents for the Applicant.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Embroidery Machines.
I JULES MATHIEU of 5 Rue Mazagran, Paris, in the Republic of France,
Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement:-
This invention relates to improvements in that class of embroidery machines for
which a Patent was granted to me dated 20 August 1889, No. 13121, the object
being to permit of the said machines being used for making serpentine and other
trimmings, and for making covered or plain cord trimming with one or more threads
or cords, and of one or more colors, as well as raised or flat braid, and simul-
taneously attaching them by a chain stitch to the fabrics to be embroidered.
According to this invention, the serpentine trimming is obtained by the use of
mechanism which allows of the thread guides turning first in one direction and then
in the other, without the curl or loop being caught by the second chain stitch, the
bobbins turning and returning from right to left. A trimming is thus produced
in a serpentine form, the needle thread simultaneously attaching the threads to the
work, without preventing the universal feed taking place.
In order to better understand my invention, I have described it with reference to
the annexed drawing, in which-
Fig. 1 shows in side view an embroidery machine to which is applied my new
mechanism.
Fig. 2 is a modification of the apparatus which imparts an alternative right and
left movement to the thread guides; and
Figs. 3 and 4 represent in longitudinal section and end view, a special nozzle
intended to be used in place of the rotary thread guides and their mounting, when
making gimp cord embroidery, and attaching it upon tulle and other pliant
materials.
In these figures the same letters of reference indicate like parts.
In carrying out my invention, I mount loosely around the bottom of the needle
carrier tube A, a screw gear wheel C, the boss C¹ of which carries 4 or more
pendent thread guides D, which are secured to the boss by screws d d. This
screw wheel C receives a reciprocating axial motion from a similar wheel E keyed
on a reciprocating shaft F, carried in bracket bearings on the head of the machine.
Rotary motion is communicated to this shaft F from the shaft G by means of the
mitre gear 9 9', and screw-toothed wheels g³ g*.
The shaft F, which is carried by the pendent brackets fand f" fixed to the head
of the machine (in order to cause the thread carriers to turn alternately to the right

page_text: and to the left), receives a to and fro horizontal direction by means of the pinion a
mounted on the driving shaft G¹ and the spur wheel a' gearing with it. On the
shaft of this spur wheel, is keyed the cam b, communicating a reciprocating motion
to a forked lever e pivotted at c'. This lever is connected to the end of the shaft F,
and communicates its reciprocating motion thereto. The horizontal to and fro
movement of the shaft F may be obtained from the driving shaft G¹ by means of
the gearing shewn at dd (Fig. 2). The bevil wheel d' carries a plate e and
slide n, to which is pivotted one end of a connecting rod m. The lower end of this
rod is pivotted to a forked bell crank lever m². The travel of the shaft F is
controlled by the slide n.
In the trimming machine shewn in the annexed drawing, the bobbins are shown
at the upper part of the machine as carried by the bobbin carriers O, which may
have 2, 3, 4, 5, or more arms o, according to the number of bobbins required.
The required tension is put on the thread by the springs of and spring guides
On leaving the bobbins, the threads Q pass through the guides y into the tube A
of the needle carrier, and down to the thread guides D.
To give the necessary rotary movement to the bobbin carriers O in the bracket
support X, I employ a sleeve P, having two grooves (one on either side thereof)
extending the whole length of the same, in which slide two projections p' formed on
the periphery of the tube A. This arrangement obviates the use of the driving
gear which I have hitherto used.
Having described the arrangement of my machine, I will now proceed to
illustrate the action.
On starting the machine, the driving shaft G' causes the needle carrier to rise
and fall, as in ordinary embroidering machines, and (by means of the pinion a and
the parts above described) a horizontal to and fro movement is communicated to
the screw toothed wheel E, which causes the thread guides D to turn alternately
to the right and left, in order to obtain a pattern of gimp cord trimming in
serpentine form, and fixed by a chain stitch.
A horizontal to and fro movement only is communicated to the shaft F when the
machine is worked without using the feed device, and a simultaneous rotary
movement also (allowing of a pattern of gimp cord trimming of a serpentine form
being made) when the feed device is used. The shaft F is mounted loosely in a
guide v, one end of which carries, on its periphery, the bevil pinion g'. The rotary
movement of this guide is effected by means of the square block v', which is pierced
to receive the shaft F, and is secured thereto by a screw.
The horizontal to and fro movement of the shaft may also be effected by the
means shown in Fig. 2.
The bobbins, which are situated above the machine, follow the movement of the
needle carrier. When the machine is actuated only by the driving shaft, the needle
carrier tube receives a vertical sliding movement only, and slides in the grooves p P,
and the bobbins remain stationary.
When the needle carrier tube is turned by means of the handle placed below
the table, the bobbins will be carried round by the feather and groove connections p p¹
of the tube with their carrier.
When it is desired to use the embroidery machine above described for making
cord embroidery or edging, whether it be covered or not covered, two, three, four,
or more bobbins will be carried on the sleeve C¹ of the screw wheel C. The
screw 9 of the screw wheel g' will be loosened, so that the screw wheel g' turns
loosely on the shaft G, and the pinion a will be disengaged by slacking the screw a
and sliding the pinion along the groove a³ until it engages with the pinion 1, made
one with the screw wheel g*.
The cam b, being thus thrown out of action, the screw wheel or worm E will be
actuated by the screw wheels g³ 9', and the pinions g g'; the horizontal to and fro
movement will be stopped, and the thread guides will turn continuously.
To obtain gimp cord embroidery upon tulle and other pliant materials, I remove
the thread guides D, and replace them by the special nozzle B*, shewn at Figs. 3

page_text: and 4, which may be pierced with any number of holes a*, according to requirements.
The threads Q, in place of passing through the holes in the thread guides, will
consequently pass through the holes o* in the nozzle. This substitution of a special
nozzle for the thread guides, which is optional, has the advantage of lessening the
gripping surface of the feed foot, and makes trimming (gimp work, &c.) upon tulle
or other pliant material possible. This cannot be effected with the rotary thread
guides and the ordinary feed foot, which occupies too great a surface upon the
material, and is the cause of contractions or wrinkles.
In order to give the needle carrier tube the same rotary movement as the thread
carriers, that is to say, sometimes alternative and sometimes continuous, I make in
the thickness of the tube A, two grooves as at a a³, or I may slot the tube, if
preferred and into these grooves or slots pass the ends of the screws b*b*.
In order to allow of the screw wheel C having either right or left hand rotation
imparted to it, I employ the two bevil pinions g¹³, one or other of which can be
brought into gear with the wheely by loosening the screw 9. In place of the
pinions being separately mounted, they may be fixed on a sleeve, and form part of
the slide t. If a left hand rotation is desired, for example, the pinion g' is put in
gear if on the contrary, a right hand rotation is required, the pinion g² is
employed.
By removing the nozzle in use, and substituting other nozzles suited to different
kinds of work desired, I am enabled to produce flat or raised braid, as will be
understood from my former Patent above referred to, and from the Specification of
a subsequent application, No. 10744 of 1890.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. The herein described modifications in the construction of embroidering machines,
which will allow of trimmings and gimp cord embroidery or edging (stuffed or not),
being made on all kinds of material, notwithstanding its supple or pliant nature, of
one or more colors, of two, three, four, or a greater number of threads or other
materials, so as to produce flat or raised braid."
2. The improvements as above described and illustrated in the annexed drawing.
Dated this 19th day of August 1891.