Year: 1886

page_text: Date of Application, 19th Nov., 1886..
Complete Left, 8th Aug., 1887.
Complete Accepted, 13th Sept., 1887.
хирготощению ц
Fabrics.
We ROBERT BOYD, Junior of 53 Cochrane Street Glasgow in the County of
Lanark, North Britain, Merchant, and EDMOND LEPAINTEUR of Roubaix France
Manufacturer do hereby declare the nature of this Invention to be as follows, that is
to say:
This Invention comprises improvements which are developments of and supple-
mentary to the improvements described in the Specifications of British Patents
numbered 4120 of 1881 and 2469 of 1882.
A part of the present improvements is applicable for manufacturing chenille which
is plain or of uniform color or material, but the improvements as a whole are chiefly
designed for manufacturing patterned or particolored chenille to be afterwards used
as warp or as weft in weaving fabrics of various kinds with particolored patterns.
The chenille is manufactured according to a now well known process by weaving
suitable wefts into warps which are arranged in sets of threads separated by spaces,
the primary chenille fabric thus woven being cut along the spaces so referred to so
as to divide it into narrow strips which have the cut weft projecting like cut pile from
their sides and which constitute the chenille.
In carrying out the present Invention the primary chenille fabric is cut or divided
in the loom in which it is woven, by means of a number of thin sharp edged steel
disks carried on a shaft which by a special arrangement of the gearing by which it is
driven is placed much nearer the fell of the fabric than in previous looms. The
cutting is made to take place accurately midway between the woven parts or back-
bones of the strips by means of wires which are shed by heddles so as to be woven
into the fabric, but which do not move forward with it. Each cutting disk is guided
between a pair of the wires and in cutting the wefts releases the strips of chenille
from the wires allowing the chenille to pass easily from the wires over the breast
beam into the take-up roller. The cutter shaft receives its rotatory motion from a
pulley on the crank shaft of the loom, a belt from this pulley driving a pulley on a
short shaft a little in front of the shuttle box at one side of the loom. Formerly this

page_text: shaft was continued across and had the cutter disks placed on it, but by the present
Invention it drives the actual cutter shaft by means of a pinion on it gearing with an
intermediate wheel which gears with a pinion on the actual cutter shaft.
A rotatory shuttle box is by preference employed, the mechanism for changing the
shuttles being however also applicable with some modifications to a vertical or "drop"
shuttle box or to a horizontal shuttle box. The rotatory shuttle box is turned by
means of mechanism which is substantially the same as that described in the earlier
Specification herein before referred to, No. 2469 of 1882, its movements or changes
being determined by Jacquard cards or plates. For many chenille patterns a very
large number of the cards or plates are required but by the present Invention these
are arranged in an improved and extremely compact manner. The cards or plates
are not laced or linked together as is ordinarily done with Jacquard cards, but are
strung quite loosely on two cords or wires; and they are arranged on edge and back
to face in a horizontal guide box along which they are pushed by means of a spring
or weight. At the inner end of the guide box there is a vertically,sliding plate
which periodically rises, allows a pattern plate to get under it, and descending pushes
the plate downwards into a position just below the guide box where it acts on the
needles or feelers connected with the shuttle-box shifting mechanism. There are as
many needles or feelers as there are shuttle cells in the rotatory shuttle box, and each
feeler is drawn forward to the pattern plate by a spring connected to it by a cord.
The feelers slide horizontally in guides and are connected to curved catch levers
which having their lower ends jointed upon the lathe sword or upon a bracket thereon
extend up behind a barrel or a series of disks fast on the spindle of the rotatory
shuttle box. The shuttle box always tends to turn in one direction by the action of
a spring, and each part of the barrel or each disk is formed with a projection in a
position corresponding to one of the shuttle cells. Whenever the lathe moves forward
it carries forward the barrel or set of disks and allows the needles or feelers to be
drawn towards the pattern plate which is then in position to act. One of the needles
enters a hole in the plate whilst the plate holds or pushes the others back; and then
if a change of shuttle is to take place the catch lever which was previously holding
the shuttle box will be one of those pushed back and the shuttle box will rotate by the
action of its spring until stopped by the catch lever connected to the needle which
entered the hole in the pattern plate.
Dated this Eighteenth day of November 1886.
EDMUND HUNT,
Applicants' Agent.

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Looms for Manufacturing Chenille and other
Fabrics.
We, ROBERT BOYD, Junior, of 53 Cochrane Street, Glasgow, in the County of
Lanark, North Britain, Merchant, and EDMOND LEPAINTEUR, of Roubaix, France,
Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement, that is to say :-
This Invention comprises improvements which are developments of and supple-
mentary to the improvements described in the Specifications of British Patents
numbered 4120 of 1881 and 2469 of 1882.
A part of the present improvements is applicable for manufacturing chenille which
is plain or of uniform color or material, but the improvements as a whole are chiefly
designed for manufacturing patterned or particolored chenille to be afterwards used
as warp or as weft in weaving fabrics of various kinds with particolored patterns. The
chenille is manufactured according to a now well known process by weaving suitable
wefts into warps which are arranged in sets of threads separated by spaces, the
primary chenille fabric thus woven being cut along the spaces referred to so as to
divide it into narrow strips which have the cut weft projecting like cut pile from their
sides, and which constitute the chenille.
And in order that the Invention and the manner of performing the same may be
properly understood we hereunto append four sheets of explanatory drawings to be
hereinafter referred to and representing various parts of a chenille loom as made with
the improvements.
In carrying out the present Invention the primary chenille fabric is cut or divided
in the loom in which it is woven, by means of a number of thin sharp edged steel
disks carried on a shaft which by a special arrangement of the gearing by which it is
driven is placed much nearer the fell of the fabric than in previous looms. This
improvement will be understood with the aid of figure, 1, on sheet, 1, of the accom-
panying drawings this figure being a vertical section as at right angles to the front
of the loom. The cutting is made to take place accurately midway between the woven
parts or backbones of the chenille strips by means of wires, 20, which are shed by
heddles so as to be woven into the fabric but which do not move forward with it,
their front ends being fixed to a beam, 21, whilst their other ends are connected by
springs to a beam or frame bar at the back of the loom. Each cutting disk, 22, is
guided between a pair of the wires, 20, and in cutting the wefts releases the strips of
chenille from the wires, allowing the chenille to pass easily from the wires over the
breast beam, 23, and thence on to the take-up roller. The shaft, 24, which has on it
the cutting disks, 22, receives its rotatory motion from a pulley, 25, on the crank
shaft, 26, of the loom, a belt from this pulley driving a pulley, 27, on a short shaft, 28,
a little in front of the shuttle box at one side of the loom. Formerly, this shaft, 28,
which cannot be placed further inwards because of the space required for the shuttle
box when the lathe beats up, was continued across to the other side of the loom and

page_text: had the cutter disks, 22, placed on it, but by the present Invention it drives the actual
cutter shaft, 24, by means of a pinion on it, indicated by a dotted circle and gearing
with an intermediate wheel, 29, which gears with a pinion on the actual cutter
shaft, 24, which can be placed nearer the fell of the fabric. With this arrangement
the wefts have not to move so far forward along the wires, 20, as formerly and the
resistance to their forward motion due to the friction is greatly reduced.
The improvements next to be described are shown in figures, 2, 3, and 4, figure, 2,
on sheet, 1, being a front elevation, and figures, 3, and 4, on sheet, 2, a plan and a
sectional side elevation. A rotatory shuttle box, 30, is, by preference employed, the
nechanism for changing the shuttles being, however, also applicable with some
modifications hereinafter explained, to a vertical or "drop" shuttle box or to a
horizontal shuttle box. The rotatory shuttle box, 30, is turned by means of
mechanism which is substantially the same as that described in the earlier Speci-
fication herein before referred to No. 2469 of 1882, its movements or changes being
determined by Jacquard cards or plates. For many chenille patterns a very large
number of the cards or plates are required but by the present Invention these
are arranged in an improved and extremely compact manner. Enlarged views of
the cards and apparatus are given on sheet, 3, of the drawings, figure, 5, being an
elevation, figures, 6, and 7, vertical sections showing certain parts in two positions,
and figure, 8, a vertical section as at right angles to figure, 6. The cards or plates, 31,
are not laced or linked together as is ordinarily done with Jacquard cards, but are
strung quite loosely on two cords or wires, 32; and they are arranged on edge and
back to face in a horizontal guide box, 33, along which they are pushed by means of
a weight, 34, a cord, 35, from which passes round guide pulleys, 36, and is attached
to the handle, 37, of a pushing block, 38. At the inner end of the guide box, 33,
there is a vertically sliding depressing plate, 39, which is connected by rods, 40, to a
lever, 41, actuated by a cam, 42, on the low shaft, 43, of the loom, and the depressing
plate, 39, is by this mechanism made to rise periodically and allow a pattern plate, 31,
to get under it and against a plate, 44, fixed across the end of the guide box, 33.
Then on redescending the depressing plate, 39, pushes the pattern plate, 31, down-
wards into a position just below the guide box, 33, where it acts on needles or
feelers, 45, connected with the shuttle-box shifting mechanism. There are as many
needles or feelers, 45, as there are shuttle cells in the rotatory shuttle box, 30; and
these feelers are placed and guided horizontally in a frame, 46, each feeler being
drawn forward to the pattern plate, by a spring connected to it by a cord, 47. The
feelers, 45, are connected to curved catch levers, 48, which have their lower ends
centered upon a spindle, 49, carried by a bracket, 50, attached to and moving with
the lathe sword, 51, their upper onds being entered up through slots in the feelers, 45.
The catch levers, 48, extend up behind a barrel, 52, or a series of disks fast on the
spindle, 53, of the rotatory shuttle box, 30. The shuttle box, 30, always tends to turn
in the direction of the arrow in figure, 4, by the action of a spring as hereinafter
explained, and each part of the barrel, 52, or each disk is formed with a ratchet-like
projection in a position corresponding to one of the shuttle cells. Whenever the lathe
inoves forward it carries forward the barrel or set of disks, 52, and allows the needles
or feelers, 45, to be drawn towards the pattern plate, 31, which is then in position to
act. One of the needles, 45, enters a hole in the plate, 31, whilst the plate holds or
pushes the others back; and then if a change of shuttle is to take place the catch
lever, 48, which was previously holding the shuttle box, 30, by engaging with a pro-
jection of the barrel or set of disks, 52, will be one of those pushed back, and the
shuttle box will rotate by the action of the spring until stopped by the catch lever, 48,
connected to the needle, 45, which entered the hole in the pattern plate, 31.
each pattern plate, 31, has acted the succeeding plate which is in its turn pushed
down by the depressing plate, 39, pushes the one before it further down and takes its
place. Each pattern plate, 31, when first pushed down into the acting position is
held there by a pair of springs, 54, and on being pushed further down escapes from
these springs and runs down the cords or wires, 32, into a receptacle, 55. The
spindle, 53, of the rotatory shuttle, box, 30, and barrel, 52, is turned by means of
After

page_text: bevil wheels, 56, from a shaft, 57, which vibrates with the lathe, and is itself driven
by means of bevil wheels, 58, from a horizontal shaft, 59, which has applied to it a
volute spring, 60, and winding-up gear, 61, the same as what is described in the
earlier Specification No. 2469 of 1882, bereinbefore referred to.
Instead of the volute spring, 60, a weighted cord, 62, may be used as shown in
figure, 9, sheet, 4. The end of this cord, 62, is fixed to a barrel, 63, fast on the
shaft, 59, and is wound upon the barrel when required by an arm, 64, moved by
the winding-up gear, 61, the cord passing round an antifriction pulley attached to
the arm and thence through a guide eye, 65, on the axis of the shaft, 59.
Ordinary Jacquard apparatus and cards may be used instead of what is hereinbefore
described for acting on the needles, 45, so as to control the changes of the shuttle box,
and a very simple arrangement for this purpose is shown in figure, 10, sheet, 4. The
needles, 45, are made with heels or turned-up projections, 66, at their back ends, and
are held back by catches, 67, which can move vertically in a fixed plate, 68. Each
catch, 67, is attached to a separate harness thread of the Jacquard apparatus and when
any one catch, 67, is lifted by its thread, it allows the corresponding needle, 45, and
catch lever, 48, to move forward when the lathe beats up, whilst the other catches
keep the other needles back. When the lathe moves back again the needle, 45,
which had thus moved further forward than the others is moved sufficiently far back
to let the catch, 67, drop in front of its heel if a change of shuttle has then to
be made.
As hereinbefore stated the shifting mechanism can be modified to suit a "drop"
or vertically moving shuttle box, or a horizontally moving shuttle box. The very
little alteration required for this purpose will be understood from figure, 11, sheet, 4.
A spiral cam, 69, is fixed on the spindle, 53, of the barrel or set of disks, 52, which is
combined with catch levers, 48, needles, 45, and other parts as hereinbefore described,
and this cam, 69, acts on a pin, 70, fixed in the spear or rod, 71, usually fixed to a
drop box. The cam, 69, rotates always in the direction of the arrow.
The same
cam, 69, may be used for a horizontally shifting shuttle box a weight or spring being
applied to the shuttle box to move it in the direction opposite to that in which the
cam moves it.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said Invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we claim is :-
1-In looms for manufacturing chenille, arranging the shaft carrying the cutting
disks and the gearing for driving it so as to operate as closely as possible to the fell
of the fabric substantially in the improved manner hereinbefore described.
2-The improved combination of the pattern mechanism comprising the pattern
plates, their guide box, the means for placing them successively in operating position
and their minor accessories substantially as hereinbefore described.
3-The improved arrangement of the needles or feelers in connection with the
catch levers and the barrel or set of disks on the spindle of the rotatory shuttle box
substantially as hereinbefore described.
4-The modification of the arrangement of needles or feelers and accessory parts
comprising means for controlling their action by ordinary Jacquard apparatus and
cards substantially as hereinbefore described.
5-The modification of the shuttle-box shifting mechanism as adapted for acting
on a vertically-moving or horizontally-moving shuttle box substantially as herein before
described.
EDMUND HUNT
Applicants' Agent.