Improvements in or relating to Sewing-machines.
Year: 1898

page_text: Date of Application (in United Kingdom), 11th Aug., 1898
Complete Specification Left, 27th Apr., 1899-Accepted, 27th May, 1899
Improvements in or relating to Sewing-machines.
We, EDUARD BREITINGER, and KARL KELLER, both of Steckborn, Canton of
Thurgau, Republic of Switzerland, Engineers, do hereby declare the nature of
this invention to be as follows:-
The object of the present invention consists of a sewing machine provided with
a fabric presser which latter is so combined with the actuating mechanism that
at each third revolution of the driving shaft whereof each turn effects a motion
of the needle, one single raising of the presser from the stitch plate is effected,
and this between the needle strokes, namely, between the catching of the loop,
and the exit of the needle from the fabric.
In the accompanying drawing this sewing machine is illustrated in a construc-
tional form as a hem-stitch sewing machine.
In these drawings
Figure 1 illustrates the machine in front elevation with the presser, the needle
mechanism being omitted.
Figure 2 shews the same machine in side elevation, the needle mechanism being
also omitted.
Figures 3 and 4 shew the presser alone on a larger scale, in front elevation,
and in side elevation respectively.
Figure 5 shews the needles with the awl in front elevation.
Figure 6 shews one of the needles separately.
The improved machine is constructed in the same manner as ordinary hem
stitch sewing machines as regards its general arrangement. It has a needle
mechanism of the usual kind with two movable needles n¹² and a fixed
awl n, at the side whereof one of the needles is arranged, and which place them-
selves alongside the awl for the purpose of forming the inner hem stitch (per-
forating before and after the transport of the fabric) and the said needles are
also capable of acting parallel or approximately parallel to the awl for the pur-
pose of effecting the outer side stitches.
The holding of the material is effected by means of the presser I, the foot
whereof in the present construction consists of two adjustable parts indepen-
dent one of another, which are attached revolubly to the horizontally bent lower
arms and of the angle levers and which are placed at both sides of
the presser bar i under the pressure of a spring .

page_text: Upon that part of the presser bar situated in the machine head is placed a
bar which pressing through a slot over the front wall of the machine head,
projects forward. To the machine head is attached a lever D below the aforesaid
bar; a projection d from the lever D) presses against the bar d. Around this
lever at its front part is placed a wire loop which is supported on an arm d³
on the front end of a shaft ¹ placed at one side of the machine, and on it there
engages sideways a spring . The other end of the shaft w¹ bears an arm
which is placed in the track of a cam fixed on one side of a gear wheel 2.
This wheel engages with another gear wheel 1 fixed upon the driving shaft
of the machine close to the fly wheel. The diameter of the one gear wheel,
is one-third of the diameter of the other 2. When on the rotation of the one 2
the cam strikes upon an arm the shaft is caused to turn, and by means
of this the lever D and the presser I and its foot is raised from the stitch plate
by aid of the arm and the loop 2. Further, in consequence of the proportion
of the gearing above set forth this raising of the presser occurs once for every three
revolutions of the wheel, consequently on every third stitch of the needles the
arrangement is so planned that the lifting off of the presser, which is normally
held pressed upon the material in the well known manner by means of a spring
eye, shewn acting upon the presser bar i, is effected when the needles are in the
position between the seizing of the loop and the exit of the needles, when the
latter lie close to the awl, which position is illustrated in Figure 5. In this
position when the presser is lifted the turning of the material can be easily and
conveniently effected.
A spring has for its object to move the loop d² and the arm d³ automatically
back again into the position of rest, Figures 1 and 2, as soon as the cam has
passed the arm d
The awl is formed in lancet shape in the well known manner at its lower
part close to which the needle points lie, and is provided at each side with a
groove in which the said needle points can place themselves. In order to ensure
them doing this exactly the point of each needle is bent a little towards the awl,
and at the side turned to the awl of each needle the point of the needle is flat,
whilst the convexity of the eye is placed on the side of the needle point which is
turned away from the awl, and is so proportioned that when the points lie in
their grooves this part projects hardly at all above the groove.
Dated the Tenth day of August 1808
W. P. THOMPSON & Co.,
322, High Holborn, London, W.C.,
Patent Agents for the Applicant.
We, EDUARD BREITINGER. and KARL KELLER, both of Steckborn, Canton of
Thurgau, Republic of Switzerland, Engineers, do hereby declare the nature of
this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed to be particu-
larly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
The object of the present invention consists of a sewing machine provided with
a fabric presser which latter is so combined with the actuating mechanism that
at each third revolution of the driving shaft whereof each turn effects a motion
of the needle, one single raising of the presser from the stitch plate is effected,
and this between the needle strokes, namely, between the catching of the loop,
and the exit of the needle from the fabric.

page_text: In the drawing accompanying the Provisional Specification this sewing machine
is illustrated in a constructional form as a hem-stitch sewing machine."
In these drawings
Figure 1 illustrates the machine in front elevation with the presser, the needle
mechanism being omitted.
Figure 2 shews the same machine in side elevation, the needle mechanism being
also omitted.
Figures 3 and 4 shew the presser alone on a larger scale, in front elevation,
and in side elevation respectively.
Figure 5 shews the needles with the awl in front elevation.
Figure 6 shews one of the needles separately.
The improved machine is constructed in the same manner as ordinary hem
stitch sewing machines as regards its general arrangement. It has al needle
mechanism of the usual kind with two movable needles #² and a fixed
awl, at the side whereof one of the needles is arranged, and which place them-
selves alongside the awl for the purpose of forming the inner hem stitch (per-
forating before and after the transport of the fabric) and the said needles are
also capable of acting parallel or approximately parallel to the awl for the pur-
pose of effecting the outer side stiteles.
The holding of the material is effected by means of the presser I, the foot
whereof in the present construction consists of two adjustable parts indepen-
dent one of another, which are attached revolubly to the horizontally bent lower
arms and of the angle levers and which are placed at both sides of
the presser bar i under the pressure of a spring.
Upon that part of the presser bar situated in the machine head is placed a
bar which pressing through a slot over the front wall of the machine head,
projects forward. To the machine head is attached a lever D below the aforesaid
har a projection from the lever ) presses against the bar . Around this
lever at its front part is placed a wire loop d² which is supported on an arm d³
on the front end of a shaft placed at one side of the machine, and on it there
engages sideways a spring . The other end of the shaft bears an, arm
which is placed in the track of a cam fixed on one side of a gear wheel
This wheel engages with another gear wheel fixed upon the driving shaft
of the machine close to the fly wheel. The diameter of ¹, the one gear wheel,
is one-third of the diameter of the other 2. When on the rotation of the one
the cam strikes upon an arm the shaft is caused to turn, and by means
of this the lever D and the presser I and its foot is raised from the stitch plate
by aid of the arm and the loop. Further, in consequence of the proportion
of the gearing above set forth this raising of the presser occurs once for every three
revolutions of the wheel, consequently on every third stitch of the needles the
arrangement is so planned that the lifting off of the presser, which is normally
held pressed upon the material in the well known manner by means of a spring
eve, shewn acting upon the presser bar i, is effected when the needles are in the
position between the seizing of the loop and the exit of the needles, when the
latter lie close to the awl, which position is illustrated in Figure 5. In this
position when the presser is lifted the turning of the material can be easily and
conveniently effected.
automatically
A spring has for its object to move the loop and the arm
back again into the position of rest, Figures 1 and 2, as soon as the cam
passed the arm d.
has
The awl is formed in lancet shape in the well known manner at its lower
part close to which the needle points lie, and is provided at each side with a
groove in which the said needle points can place themselves. In order to ensure
them doing this exactly the point of each needle is bent a little towards the awi,
and at the side turned to the awl of each needle the point of the needle is flat.
whilst the convexity of the eye is placed on the side of the needle point which is

page_text: turned away from the awl, and is so proportioned that when the points lie in
their grooves this part projects hardly at all above the groove.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said in-
vention, and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is:-
1. In a sewing machine a presser foot so combined with an actuating mecha-
nism that at every third revolution of the driving shaft effecting one stroke of
the needle, one raising of the presser foot from the stitch plate is effected, and
this motion takes place at that position of the needle which occurs at the period
between the catching of the needle thread loops by the shuttle threads, and the
exit of the needles from the material, substantially as described.
2. In sewing machines, the hereinbefore described construction of the needles
in such a manner that the close approach of the needles to the awl is effected by
having each needle arranged on one side of the awl with its point bent towards
the said awl, and its side turned towards the awl suitably flattened, substantially
as described.
D
1 11
1
0
1 1009
W. P. THOMPSON & Co.,
Of London, Liverpool, Manchester, and Birmingham.