IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF PILE AND OTHER FABRICS
Year: 1867

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to John Owens, of Salford, in the County of Lancaster,
Machinist, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF
PILE AND OTHER FABRICS."
Sealed the 8th May 1868, and dated the 21st November 1867.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said John Owens at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
21st November 1867.
I, JOHN OWENS, of Salford, in the County of Lancaster, Machinist, do
hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE
MANUFACTURE OF PILE AND OTHER FABRICS," to be as follows:-
My Invention is applicable to those pile fabrics in which the pile is produced
by floating the weft threads over the warp threads, and then cutting the weft
threads, and it consists in an improved mode of weaving by which the whole
of the pile weft appears on the face, and the back is plain or twilled.
In performing my Invention I employ an ordinary loom having one, two,
or more shuttles containing the different qualities of weft required. I first
throw one or more shoots of the pile weft, and then one or more shopts of the
weft for the back, and for binding in all cases the number of shoots of the pile
weft is greater than the shoots of the binding weft, and the binding weft being.
generally coarser than the pile weft forces up the pile weft and makes a close
back. I am also enabled to make a plain cloth selvage of any width by
floating the pile weft across the selvage, which is produced entirely by the warp

page_text: and the binding or back weft. Either plain or twilled selvages may be woven
in this manner.
My Invention is particularly beneficial when applied in the manufacture of
velvets having a silk pile and a cotton back, but it may be used in manu-
facturing plushes or cords with a worsted face and cotton back, or for various
other descriptions of piled fabrics having the face and back of different
materials. Plain, twilled, diagonal, or figured piled fabrics can be produced
in the manner above described, either with or without a plain back.
My Invention may also be applied in weaving double fabrics united by the
pile weft, and then cut asunder in the usual manner, and to plain, twill,
diagonal, or figured woollen or other cloth that does not require a piled face
but in which one face is required of a better or more expensive material than
the other.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said John Owens in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
20th May 1868.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JOHN
OWENS, of Salford, in the County of Lancaster, Machinist, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-first day of November, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-seven, in the thirty-first year of
Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto
me, the said John Owens, Her special license that I, the said John Owens,
my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said
John Owens, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time
agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter
during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use,
exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland,
the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
THE MANUFACTURE OF PILE AND OTHER FABRICS," upon the condition (amongst
others) that I, the said John Owens, my executors or administrators, by an
instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals,
should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention
and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to
be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and
immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.

page_text: NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said John Owens, do hereby declare
the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to
be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement (that is to say):-
My Invention is applicable to those pile fabrics in which the pile is produced
by floating the weft threads over the warp threads, and then cutting the weft
threads, and it consists in an improved mode of weaving by which the whole
of the pile weft appears on the face, and the back is plain or twilled..
In performing my Invention I employ an ordinary loom having one, two,
or more shuttles containing the different qualities of weft required. I first
throw one or more shoots of the pile weft, and then one or more shoots of the
weft for the back, and for the binding in all cases the number of shoots of the
pile weft is greater than the shoots of the binding weft, and the binding weft
being generally coarser than the pile weft forces up the pile weft and makes a
close back. I am also enabled to make a plain cloth or twilled selvage of any
width by floating the pile weft across the selvage, which is produced entirely.
by the warp and the binding or back weft.
My Invention is particularly beneficial when applied in the manufacture of
velvets having a silk pile and a cotton back, but it may be used in manu-
facturing plushes or cords with a worsted face and cotton back, or for various
other descriptions of piled fabrics having the face and back of different
materials. Plain, twilled, diagonal, or figured piled fabrics can be produced
in the manner above described, either with or without a plain back.
My Invention may also be applied in weaving double fabrics united by the
pile weft, and then cut asunder in the usual manner, and to plain, twill,
diagonal, or figured woollen or other cloth that does not require a piled face
but in which one face is required of a better or more expensive material than
the other.
And in order that my Invention may be fully understood and readily carried
into operation by a competent practical weaver or designer I will proceed to
describe the means pursued by me, reference being had to the accompanying
three Sheets of Diagrams, which represent several tie-ups or modes of
arranging and working the healds and throwing in the weft to produce the
desired fabrics.
The looms in which my improved fabrics are woven are of the ordinary
description, having by preference two or more shuttles containing the welt
for the face and back of the fabric. When the fabric is taken out of the loom.
the pile weft is cut when required in the o:dinary manner, and raised to form
the face of the fabric.
=

page_text: In the accompanying Diagrams the spaces between the horizontal lines
indicate the healds or shafts, and the spaces between the vertical lines
indicate the treadles, the 0, 0, in the spaces between these horizontal and vertical
lines shew the order of succession in which the healds are raised. The lowest
horizontal space marked 1 represents the catch cord or shaft to prevent the
weft going back in the same shed. The two next spaces marked 1 and 2
represent the selvage shafts, and the others marked 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6, are
the shafts for the body of the fabric.
The Diagram Figure 1, on Sheet 1, is for weaving a plain backed velvet
with a plain selvage. The first shed is made by raising the front selvage shaft
and the first, third, and fifth shafts of the body of the fabric, and lowering the
second selvage shaft and the second, fourth, and sixth body shafts; the second
shed is formed by raising the first body shaft and lowering all the others; the
third shed is formed by raising the third body shaft and lowering all the rest;
the fourth shed is formed by raising the fifth body shaft and lowering all the
rest; the fifth shed is formed by raising the catch cord shaft, the front selvage
shaft, and the first, third, and fifth body shafts, and lowering the second
selvage shaft, and the second, fourth, and sixth body shafts; the sixth shed is
formed by raising the second selvage shaft, and the second, fourth, and sixth
body shafts, and lowering the catch cord shaft, the front selvage shaft, and the
first, third, and fifth body shafts; the seventh shed is formed by raising the
second body shaft and lowering all the rest; the eighth shed is formed by
raising the fourth body shaft and lowering the rest; the ninth shed is
formed by raising the sixth body shaft and lowering the rest; and the tenth
or last shed is formed by raising the catch cord shaft, the second selvage shaft,
the second, fourth, and sixth body shafts, and lowering the front selvage shaft,
and the first, third, and fifth body shafts. By this arrangement the pile weft
is thrown across at the second, third, fourth, seventh, eighth, and ninth sheds;
and it is made to float over five warp threads, and the pile weft is brought to
the face of the fabric by throwing two shoots of weft for the back at the first
and fifth sheds, and at the sixth and tenth sheds.
The Diagram Figure 2 represents a tie-up for weaving a fabric similar to
that produced by Figure 1, but with the twill in the contrary direction
Figures 3 and 4 are tie-ups corresponding to Figures 1 and 2, but with the
draft broken or arranged with the uneven and even numbers in succession;
this arrangement is sometimes desirable for facilitating the working of the
healds or for other purposes. I wish to observe here that all the subsequent
regular tie-ups may be arranged by. broken draft, upon the same principle as
Figures 3 and 4. Figure 5 is a tie-up for weaving a fabric similar to that

page_text: produced by Figure 1, but with twice the quantity of pile weft on the face;
Figure 6 is the reverse of Figure 5, but in other respects similar; Figure 7
is a tie-up similar to Figure 1, but for producing a fabric having three times
the quantity of pile weft on the face; Figure 8 is the reverse tie-up to
Figure 7; Figure 9 is a tie-up to produce a fabric with four times more pile
weft than that produced by Figure 1; Figure 10 is the reverse of Figure 9 ;
Figure 11 is a tie-up to produce a fabric very similar to that produced by
Figure 9, but baving four more shoots of weft in the back to increase the
strength; Figure 12 is the reverse of Figure 11; Figure 13 is a tie-up very
similar to Figure 5, but with four additional shoots of weft in the back to
increase the strength; Figure 14 is the reverse of Figure 13; Figure 15 is á
tie-up similar to Figure 7, but with the four additional shoots of weft in the
back; Figure 16 is the reverse of Figure 15; Figure 17 is a tie-up for pro-
ducing a particularly strong and full-faced velvet; Figure 18 is a tie-up to
produce a fabric with both faces alike, either or both of which may be
cut; Figure 19 is a tie-up to produce a twilled backed velvet with a double
piled face.
On Sheet 2 Figure 20 is a Diagram of a plain back velvet with a plain
selvage produced in a loom with eleven shafts, that is to say, one for the catch
cord, two for the selvage, and eight for the body of the fabric; Figure 21 is a
tie-up similar to Figure 20, but with the draft broken; Figure 22 is a tie-up
for a plain back satin-faced velvet; Figure 23 is the broken tie-up for a velvet,
similar to Figure 22; Figure 24 is the tie-up for a twilled back velvet with
a fuller face than Figure 20; Figure 25 is the broken draft for Figure 24;
Figure 26 is the tie-up for a twilled back velvet with an extra full face;
Figure 27 is a tie-up to produce a fabric with both faces alike and with a
twilled middle; Figure 28 is the tie-up for a satin-faced velvet with a twilled
and plain back; Figure 29 is the tie-up of a plain back velvet with a satin
face and a plain selvage, produced in a loom with thirteen shafts, that is to
say, one for the catch cord, two for the selvage, and ten for the body of the
fabric; Figure 30 is the tie-up for a plain back velvet with a rolling face;
Figure 31 is the tie-up for a plain back velvet; Figure 32 is the tie-up for a
plain back velvet with double pile satin face; Figure 33 is the tie-up for a
velvet with a rolling face double pile; Figure 34 is the tie-up for a single pile
satin-face velvet with back and face alike; Figure 35 is the tie-up of a single
pile rolling face velvet with both sides alike; Figure 36 is a tie-up for a
double pile satin-face velvet with both sides alike.
On Sheet 3 Figure 37 is the tie for producing a plain back velvet in a loom
with fifteen shafts (that is to say), one for the catch cord, two for the selvage;

page_text: and twelve for the body of the fabric; Figure 38 is the reverse of Figure 37,
but produces a similar fabric; Figure 39 is a tie-up for producing a satin-
faced velvet with a plain back; Figure 40 is a tie for producing a velvet
similar to Figure 39, without catch cord and selvage; Figure 41 is the tie-
up for producing another satin-faced velvet with a plain back; Figure 42 is
the tie-up for a stronger velvet with a satin face and plain back; Figure 43 is
the tie-up for producing a double faced satin velvet with a double back;
Figure 44 is the tie-up for producing a four-fold satin-faced velvet with a
double back; Figure 45 is the tie-up for a double satin-faced velvet with
both sides of the fabric alike; Figure 46 is the tie-up for producing a diagonal
velvet with a twilled back; Figure 47 is for producing a diagonal velvet with
a plain back; Figure 48 is for producing a double faced diagonal velvet with
a twilled back; Figure 49 is the tie-up for producing a diagonal double faced
velvet with a double twilled back and twilled selvage, having the weft on the
top side of the selvage, this fabric requires 17 shafts, that is to say, two for
the catch cord, three for the selvage, and twelve for the body; Figure 50 is
the tie-up for a diagonal double faced velvet with a plain back and plain selvage
produced in a loom, with two catch cord shafts, two shafts for the selvage and
twelve for the body; Figure 51 is the tie-up for weaving a plain back double
fabric, united by the pile weft in a loom with twelve shafts; Figure 52 is for
producing a similar fabric with a shorter pile; Figure 53 is the tie-up for
weaving a double fabric, united by the pile weft in a loom with sixteen shafts;
Figure 54 is for producing a similar double fabric with twenty shafts;
Figure 55 is for producing a similar double fabric with twenty-four shafts.
In the above tie-ups for weaving double fabrics, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, or 8 warp
threads are drawn into one dent.
Figure 56 is the tie-up for a plain selvage with two shafts;
"
57 is for a twilled selvage with three shafts weft upwards;
58 is for a similar selvage with the warp upwards;
59 is for a twilled selvage with four shafts weft upwards;
61 is for a satin twilled selvage with four shafts weft upwards;
"
"
"
60 is for a similar selvage with warp upwards;
"
"
62 is for a similar selvage with warp upwards;
"
63 is for a selvage having both sides with a double twill;
"
64 is a five-shaft satin twill selvage weft upwards;
"
65 is for a similar selvage with the warp upwards;
"
66 is for a selvage with satin face weft upwards;
"
67 is for a similar selvage with the warp upwards;
and 68 is for a selvage with a two-twilled weft face and a three-twilled
"

page_text: warp back. The selvages above described can be applied to any of the tie-ups
for weaving my improved fabrics.
Having thus described the nature of my Invention, and given various modes
of carrying the same into practical operation, I wish it to be understood that
I do not bind myself to the details given, as the strength of the back and the
length and thickness of the pile can be varied by slightly altering the order of
succession in which the shafts are worked. I wish also to observe that my
Invention is applicable for weaving fabrics that do not require a piled face,
but in which one face is of a better or more expensive material than the other;
in such cases the operation of cutting the races of weft is dispensed with. I
claim,-
First. The improved modes described of throwing the pile weft and back
weft into the fabric, whereby all the pile weft is brought to the face, and is
protected and secured by the back weft; also, whereby pile fabrics are
produced in which the cracks or ridges heretofore unavoidable are dispensed
with.
Secondly. The improved mode described of weaving fabrics with a diagonal
pile and twilled or plain back, which fabrics can be cut in the ordinary
manner.
Thirdly. The improved modes described of weaving fabrics with the face
weft on both sides alike, and with the binding weft in the middle of the
fabric; the faces of this double faced fabric can both be cut, or the one face
may be cut and the other left uncut, or both left uncut.
Fourthly. The improved mode described of weaving double fabrics united
by the pile weft, and then cut asunder in the usual manner to form two-pile
fabrics.
And, lastly. The improved mode described of weaving pile and other fabrics
with plain, twilled, or diagonal selvages.
In witness whereof, I, the said John Owens, have hereto set my hand
and seal, this Nineteenth day of May, One thousand eight hundred
and sixty-eight.
JOHN OWENS. (L.S.)