Improvements in the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes.
Year: 1895

page_text: Date of Application, 14th Jan., 1895
Complete Specification Left. 22nd Aug., 1895-Accepted, 28th Sept., 1895
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes.
I, HERBERT DICKSON of No. 145 Willow Street Leicester in the County of
Leicester Boot Manufacturer do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be
as follows:
"heel
This invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of boots and shoes
the principal object being to make a boot or shoe absolutely free from seams on
the inside of the back or heel portion, by providing an outside stiffener or
goloshcut out from the same or similar material to what is well known as
stiffeners" put inside the upper and lining and form the inside fittings, made from
English bends or butts, shoulders or hellies, American or Australian sides or any
other thick undressed leather, by which I am enabled to dispense with the "heel
stiffeners as now used, particularly in boys and girls school boots to which this
invention is specially applicable. Also to any other kind of boot to prevent the
curling up of the upper or inside fittings or stiffener, such curling causing lameness
by a ridge forming round the seat of the heel.
>>
""
To carry out my invention I cut out from a pattern or stamp by knife or punch
the "golosh
to the shape desired preferably the same shape as for "inside heel
stiffeners," & skive all round the edge upon the fleshy side. I then soften them
in water and blacken or otherwise colour them, the latter for fancy coloured goods.
The colouring material brightening the face of the "golosh" without burnishing,
they are then fitted and sewn to the back quarter or quarters of the upper which
is made of the usual material, of a flexible yielding nature, the upper is then ready
to be lasted and finished in the ordinary manner.
The said "outside stiffener or golosh" may be cut that the neck or centre of
the pattern be continued up to the top of the back of the boot if desired. Or
after cutting, stamping, skiving and softening the said "outside stiffeners
or goloshe's they may be moulded like heel counters to the shape as desired.
And I may either continue the back quarter or quarters of the boot uppers so
that they are lasted with the "outside stiffener or golosh" sewn thereto, or shorten
such uppers and sew them to the correspondingly shaped "outside stiffener or
golosh" as the case may be.
The expression
+6
,,
blacken or otherwise colour them means using any black ink
or other colouring material well known to the trade.
Dated this 10th day of January 1895.
W. B. MAAFIELD,
Applicant's Agent.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes.
I, HERBERT DICKSON of No. 145 Willow Street Leicester in the County of
Leicester Boot Manufacturer do hereby declare the nature of this invention and
0 in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement:-
This invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of boots and shoes
the principal object being to make a boot or she absolutely free from seams on the
Prin Q17

page_text: 22
inside of the back or heel portion, by providing an "outside stiffener or golosh
cut out from the same or similar material to what is well known as
"heel
stiffeners"; such outside stiffener or golosh" is made from English bends or butts,
shoulders or bellies, American or Australian sides or any other thick undressed
leather and known as "bottom leather." This will enable me to dispense with the
"heel stiffener " as now employed between the upper and lining, or inside the
upper at the heel or back portion, and obviate breaking down at the beel particularly
in boys and girls school boots to which this invention is more especially
applicable.
Or it can be applied to any other kind of boot or shoe to prevent the curling
up of the upper, or inside fittings when there are any in goods using stiffeners such
curling causing lameness by a ridge forming round the seat of the heel.
That my invention may be well understood I have annexed a sheet of drawings
in which is shown by
Figure 1 a boot, of the kind fastened by laces passed through holes or eyelets
secured in the lacing strips, the golosh being shown partly in section.
Figure 2 is a flat view of the outside stiffener or "golosh" and
Figure 3 represents a moulded golosh according to this invention.
39
In carrying out my invention I cut from a flat pattern or stamp by aid of a knife
or punch of the form as shown in Figures 2, or 3, (not unlike the shape of an inside
heel stiffener and skive all round the edges as at a', dotted line Figures 2 and 3,
for sewing to the upper. I then soften them in water they are then blackened or
otherwise coloured, the latter for fancy coloured goods, such colouring matter being
of any good material that will brighten the face of the "golosh without
burnishing they are then attached to the back quarter or quarters of the upper
leathers, cuts a² Figures 2 and 3 are made at the bottom to obviate any unsightly
appearance caused by lumps on the inside of the heel of the boot or shoe, the upper
thus completed is taken to the last and soled and heeled in the ordinary manner.
The said "outside heel stiffener or golosh" may be cut or stamped out having a
neck in the centre as D dotted line Figure 3 to be continued up the back of the
boot if desired forming with the "golosh" a back strap the edges thereof skived
to facilitate sewing. Or after cutting, stamping, skiving and softening the said
"outside stiffeners or goloshes, or goloshes and back strap" they may be moulded
in any suitable heel stiffener moulding machine like heel counters to the shape
desired "see Figure 3." And I may either continue the back quarter or quarters
of the upper leathers so that they are lasted with the said "outside stiffener or
golosh" as seen at B Figure 1, or shorten such uppers and sew their edges to the
corresponding edges of the "outside stiffener or golosh," as the case may be.
19
The expression "blacken or otherwise colour them means that I can use any
black ink or other colouring matter or material well known to the trade for butt
and other sole leathers.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of this inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed 1 would have it known
that I am aware that strengthening pieces called "heel pieces" have been used for
many years in army Blucher boots and leggings, and that protectors have been
used for preventing breakage at the seat of the heel such as in Harrison's Patent
No. 12,942 of 1892, but I do not claim either of these but what i do claim is :
In the manufacture of boots and shoes a, "butt" or other sole leather "golosh"
secured and arranged substantially as herein described and set forth.
Dated this 19th day of August 1895.
W. BESTWICK MAXFIELD,
Registered Patent Agent,
18 Bowling Green Street, Leicester, Applicant's Agent.
W. BESTWICK MAXFIELD,
Registered Patent Agent,
Bowling Green Street, Leicester, Applicant's Agent.