IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR SEWING BOOTS AND SHOES
Year: 1872

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to John Henry Johnson, of 47, Lincoln's Inn
Fields, in the County of Middlesex, Gentleman, for the Invention
of "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR SEWING BOOTS AND
SHOES." A communication from abroad by Charles Goodyear, the
younger, of New Rochelle, Westchester County, in the State of New
York, United States of America.
-
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said John Henry Johnson
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on
the 4th April 1872..
I, JOHN HENRY JOHNSON, of 47, Lincoln's Inn Fields, in the
County of Middlesex, Gentleman, do hereby declare the nature of the
said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR SEWING
BOOTS AND SHOES," a communication to me from abroad by Charles
Goodyear, the younger, of New Rochelle, Westchester County, in the
State of New York, United States of America, to be as follows:-
This Invention is especially applicable to sewing what is known as
"turned work," but with some obvious modifications and the addition
of a welt gauge it may be used for welted work.
:

page_text: The main features of the Invention relate, first, to the feeding of the
work; secondly, to the presenting of the work to the needle; and thirdly,
to the combined operation of the awl and needle in puncturing and
making the stitch.
In order to effect the feed I make use of the awl in combination with
an edge bender, so arranged that the awl shall first enter the sole from
the inside channel; the edge bender shall then press upon the outside
chamfer or edge of the sole, and the two thus grasping the work between
them shall then move together to carry the work forward to the point
where it is to be acted on by the needle.
To present the work properly to the needle I dispense with all hooks
or other supplementary mechanism for operating on the grain side of the
sole in connection with an edge bender to bend down the edge in order
to enable the needle to pass through that portion of the flesh side of the
sole between the outside chamfer and inside channel, and I employ for
the purpose the awl, which is so arranged as to only partly puncture this
portion of the sole, the edge bender then bending that portion of the sole
between the edge and the point of the awl, the latter thus serving as the
· point of resistance to prevent bending of any further part of the sole.
To puncture the sole in order to pass the needle through it for the
purpose of making the stitch, the awl, with the sole through which it
partly penetrates, is carried forward by the feed until the point of the
awl is brought immediately opposite the point of the needle, which then
commences to penetrate the sole from the opposite direction until it
meets the awl, and then passes through the remainder of the work in the
aperture formed by the awl, which withdraws as the needle advances.
In the above-mentioned operations I can employ either a straight or
curved needle. I prefer to give the curved needle a combined recipro-
'cating, sliding, and rotary movement, the sliding rectilinear movement
being continued until the needle penetrates the work as far as the
point of the awl, when this movement ceases and the rotary movement
'begins.
The peculiar combinations of mechanism which constitute the essential
features of this Invention are,-

page_text: cating sliding movement toward and away from the awl in a path at an
angle to the path of moveme of the latter, so that the awl shall enter
the work from one side, and the needle shall then be caused by the
sliding movement of its stock to penetrate the same from the opposite
side until it meets or nearly meets the awl, and then to complete its
course by its rotating movement, following the aperture made by the awl
which withdraws as the needle advances.
cating sliding movement toward and away from the awl in a path at an
angle to the path of moveme of the latter, so that the awl shall enter
the work from one side, and the needle shall then be caused by the
sliding movement of its stock to penetrate the same from the opposite
side until it meets or nearly meets the awl, and then to complete its
course by its rotating movement, following the aperture made by the awl
which withdraws as the needle advances.
Secondly. The combination of the awl and needle, constructed and
operated as specified in the preceding clause, with a looper.
Thirdly. The combination of the awl and edge bender, moving to-
gether laterally to and fro, and operating to grasp the work and effect
the feed.
Fourthly. In combination with the awl and edge bender operating
together as described, a channel guide moving to and fro laterally with
the same during the feed movement, and pressed alternately tightly and
with a yielding pressure on the work.
Fifthly. The combination, for the purpose of bending the edge or out-
side chamfer of the sole, of the awl and the edge bender, under the
arrangement described, so that the awl shall first penetrate the sole from
the inner channel to the proper depth, and the edge bender shall then
bend over the point of the awl that portion of the sole between the said
point and the edge of the sole.
Sixthly. In combination with the needle, awl, and edge bender operat-
ing together as described, a yielding last support, having an up-and-down
movement and locked rigidly in place at proper intervals.
Seventhly. The combination with the sliding stock which carries the
rotary needle, of appliances for varying the length of movement of the
said stock, in order to obtain loops of different sizes, as required for light
or heavy work.
Eighthly. The combination of the awl, edge bender, and channel
guide, all supported in and moving with a laterally sliding reciprocating
head arranged in the frame of the machine above the needle stock.
Ninthly. The combination with the reciprocating sliding head which
carries the awl and edge bender, of means for varying the length of
movement of the said head, and consequently regulating the feed.

page_text: Tenthly. In a machine for sewing boots and shoes, the combination
with an awl and edge bender operating together as herein described, of
an opener or separator arranged to operate in connection with the said
parts and between the sole and the last, whether the said combination
be used in connection with a straight or a curved needle. The object of
the said opener or separator is to hold the sole far enough out from the
last to afford sufficient space between the two to allow the edge to be
bent out of the path of the needle. This separator or opener consists of
a bar or metallic strip with a hook-like projection on its front end which
is inserted between the sole and the last so as to hold the two at the
proper distance apart. The separator is arranged on one side of the
needle and at the point where the awl descends to partly pierce the sole
preparatory to the feed and edge bending operations.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said John Henry Johnson in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 3rd October 1872.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JOHN
HENRY JOHNSON, of 47, Lincoln's Inn Fields, in the County of
Middlesex, Gentleman, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Fourth day of April, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-two, in the thirty-
fifth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors,
give and grant unto me, the said John Henry Johnson, Her special
license that I, the said John Henry Johnson, my executors, adminis-
trators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said John Henry Johnson,
my executors, administrators, or assigns, should at any time agree with,
and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during
the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use,.
exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and
Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for
"IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR SEWING BOOTS AND SHOES,"
a communication to me from abroad by Charles Goodyear the younger,
of New Rochelle, Westchester County, in the State of New York, United
States of America, upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said

page_text: To puncture the sole in order to pass the needle through it for the
purpose of making the stitch the awl, with the sole through which it
partly penetrates, is carried forward by the feed until the point of the
awl is brought immediately opposite the point of the needle, which then
commences to penetrate the sole from the opposite direction until it
meets the awl, and then passes through the remainder of the work in
the aperture formed by the awl, which withdraws as the needle
advances.
In the above-mentioned operations I can employ either a straight or
curved needle. I prefer the latter, and have so represented it in the
Drawing, which will be presently referred to. I also prefer to give the
curved needle a combined reciprocating, sliding, and rotary movement,
the sliding rectilinear movement being continued until the needle
penetrates the work as far as the point of the awl, when this movement
ceases and the rotary movement begins.
And in order that the said Invention may be fully understood, I shall
now proceed more particularly to describe the same, and for that
purpose shall refer to the several Figures on the annexed Sheet of
Drawings, the same letters of reference indicating corresponding parts
in all the corresponding Figures.
Figure 1 is a side elevation partly in section of a machine made in
accordance with this Invention; Figure 2 is a front elevation of the
same; Figure 3 is a side view of the sewing, puncturing, bending, and
feed devices detached, representing the manner in which the work is
operated on.
I have represented the machine as adapted to the sewing of "turned
work."
a is the awl mounted in a stock a¹, which has an up-and-down move-
ment imparted to it by suitable mechanism sufficient to allow the awl to
penetrate the sole partly, and to the proper extent. The actuating
mechanism consists in the present instance of the crank shaft 1, mounted
in bearings in the goose neck A of the machine, the connecting rod 2,
and the jointed arm 3 hinged at one end to the frame of the machine;
at the other end to the rod 2, and provided at a point intermediate
between its two ends with a roller stud fitting in a cam groove formed
in the face of a disk 4 on the shaft B, from which shaft all the varied
movements of the machine are derived. The front crank pin of shaft 1

page_text: fits in a horizontal slot 5 in a box attached to the stock a¹, indicated in'
dotted lines in Figure 2, to admit of the lateral reciprocating movement
of the awl for the purpose of effecting the feed. The edge bender is
represented at b, attached in an adjustable manner to its stock b', so that
it may be set up or down as required by the work. The stock is hinged
at 6 to the front of the sliding reciprocating head C, which carries also
the awl, and its upper end is jointed to the front end of a horizontal con-
necting rod 6, which at its rear is hinged to a vertical arm 7 vibrating
upon a stud 8, and provided at its lower end with a roller stud working
in the cam groove 9, which rocks the arm 7 back and forth, and so
alternately and at proper intervals pushes forward and draws back the
edge bender.
The operation of these devices to prepare the sole so that it may be
properly presented to the needle in sewing "turned work" will be under-
stood by reference to Figure 3. The several movements of the awl and
edge bender are so timed that the awl first descends, and entering the
sole from the inside channel penetrates partly through to the outside
chamfer. The edge bender then advances and bends that portion of the
sole below the point of the awl outward, thus enabling the needle when
it advances to enter the sole at or near the bottom of the chamfer, and
the point of the awl becomes the point at which the bend takes place,
thus dispensing, as above mentioned, with all supplemental mechanism
which has heretofore been employed to act on the opposite or grain side
of the sole for this purpose, the awl and its bender thus operating
together hold the work firmly, and are therefore available for effecting
the feed. To this end they are arranged to move together in a horizontal
path toward and away from the needle, the means of bringing about this
movement being in the present instance the horizontally sliding edge C
above named moving in ways on the front of the goose neck A, as in
Figures 1 and 2. The connections of the awl and edge bender are
suitably arranged to permit of this reciprocating sliding motion. The
edge C is actuated by means of a crank shaft 10 provided at its front
with a pin 11 indicated in dotted lines in Figure 2, moving in a vertical
slot formed in the head, and adjustable nearer to or further from the
centre or axis of the shaft, in order to regulate the length of movement
of head, and consequently the length of feed. The adjustment of the pin
in the present instance is effected by mounting it in a slide attached to
the front of the crank arm, and connected with a set screw 12 (in dotted

page_text: lines in Figure 2), by means of which the slide and consequently the pin
may be raised or lowered. The shaft 10 is rocked at proper intervals
by means of a connecting rod 13 hinged to its rear crank arm, and
pivoted at its lower end to one end of a horizontal arm 14, which at its
other end is hinged to the frame of the machine, and at a point inter-
mediate between its two ends is provided with a roller stud working in a
cam groove in disk 15.
The feed movement and the several motions of the awl and edge
bender are timed as follows:-Supposing the awl and edge bender to be
at the point where they are furthest removed from the needle, the awl
first descends and partly punctures the work, and the edge bender then
advances and bends the edge of the sole, which is thus held by the two
as above described; the sliding head then commences its movement
toward the needle, carrying with it the awl and edge bender which
advances the work grasped by them the proper distance for a stitch. The
needle then commences its work and passes up through the sole, the awl
receding as the needle advances. After the awl has withdrawn from the
sole, and while the needle is still in the work, the edge bender draws
back, releases its pressure on the sole, and then the sliding head com-
mences its backward movement, carrying with it the awl and edge
bender, which are again brought into position in order to take a fresh
hold upon the work and effect the feed.
For the purpose of guiding the work I prefer to have although this
is not indispensable) a channel guide shewn at c, which is also mounted
in the sliding head in line with the awl, and so shaped as to run in the
inside channel of the sole in order to bring the channel directly under
the awl. This guide, when moving back with the sliding head in order
that the awl and edge bender may take a fresh hold upon the work, is
held down with a yielding pressure by means of a spring c¹, but when
the awl and edge bender have fairly grasped the work it is also locked
tightly by a wedge c² which has a sliding back-and-forth movement
imparted to it intermittently and at the proper intervals by means of a
horizontal arm 16 jointed to it, and connected at the rear with an
upright rod 17 hung on a pivot 18, and provided with a roller stud on
its lower end working in the cam groove 19. The movements of this
locking device are so timed that it will hold the guide rigid when the
awl and edge bender take hold of the work, and will release the guide
when they release the work.

page_text: In order to support the work under the thrust of the awl and for
other purposes I use a last support d, which is arranged to have an
up-and-down movement at certain intervals, and at other intervals is
held either with a yielding pressure or rigidly against the work, as
herein-after stated. The support d is mounted on a vertically sliding
rod ď mounted on suitable bearings in the front of the frame of the
machine. On the lower portion of the rod is a spiral spring d³ held
bétween two collars d³, d³. Between the lower collar d and the lower
end of the spring is a fork 20, which is connected with a vibratory arm 21
hinged at one end to the frame of the machine, and at the other end
provided with a roller stud working in a cam groove in the disk 22.
This cam, through the medium of parts 21 and 20, imparts at intervals
an up-and-down movement to the last support.
The down movement is effected by the downward pressure of fork 20
on the lower collar d³; the up movement is caused by the rising of the
fork against the spring d. The object of interposing this spring between
the fork and the upper collar d³ is to allow the jack to yield and adapt
itself to slight irregularities or differences of thickness in the work. The
locking of the jack is effected by means of an eccentric roller e hung in
O bearings e¹ and operated by a swinging arm e³, connecting rod e³, and
hinged arm e*, provided at its free end with a roller stud working. in
cam groove 23.
The movement and operation of the jack or last support is as follows:
-While the awl is puncturing the work the last is in an elevated
6 position and locked rigidly in place. As soon as the awl has concluded
its downward motion and the feed is about to commence, the jack is
lowered, the feed takes place, and the jack then rises simultaneously
with the needle.. It is then brought up with a yielding pressure against
the work, and may there at once be locked in position, or the locking
O need not take take place until the awl and edge bender release the work
and the needle is about to withdraw. It remains locked until the awl
again descends and the feed is about to take place, when it is released
and descends as before.
It now remains to describe the arrangement and operation of the
5 needle. As before stated, with the awl and edge bender operating as
specified, I can use either a straight or a curved needle. I prefer the
curved needle because I can use with it a common last, whereas a

page_text: straight needle will need a last with a bottom somewhat modified from
the usual form, or some equivalent arrangement to adapt the same for
the purpose. Whether a straight or curved needle be used the edge-
bender however will press the edge of the sole far enough out of the way
to allow the needle to enter the material at the right point. The curved
needle is mounted in a suitable stock 9, and this stock I prefer should
also have a sliding movement, both in order to obtain a larger loop with
a needle of a curve of small diameter and for other purposes. The
oscillating or reciprocating rotary movements of the needle are produced
by mounting the stock in a segmental groove in the stock support h and
connecting it by a pin with the rod 24, which is hinged to the vertical
arm 25 vibrating on the pivot 26, and provided with a roller stud on its
lower end working in the cam groove 27. The sliding up and down
movement of the stock and needle are effected by fastening the stock
support to a bar ³, arranged nearly vertically, but at an angle to the
awl, as shewn in Figure 1, and sliding in ways h² attached to the frame
of the machine. The lower end of the bar is provided with a transverse
piece h³, having formed in it a horizontal slot, and in this slot works the
end of a pin i, which is adjustable in a slot formed in an arm k fixed on
a horizontal transverse rock shaft mounted in stationary bearings in
the frame of the machine. By adjusting this pin nearer to or further
from the shaft l, the length of movement of the sliding bar h¹ can be
increased or diminished in order to adapt the length of the loop made
by the needle to the nature of the work, whether it be light or heavy.
The shaft is actuated by means of a second arm m which is fixed to it,
and is provided at its free end with a roller-stud working in the cam
groove 28. With the needle I employ a looper n of the usual con-
struction, which vibrates on a universal joint n³, and is operated at the
proper intervals to perform its work by means of the crank disc or
eccentric o attached to its rear end, said disk being operated by means
of the beveled gears p, q, crank connection 29 and arm 30 vibrating on
pivot 31, and provided with a roller stud on its lower end working in
cam groove 32. I also employ a cast-off or barb coverer r, which owing
to the arrangement of the curved needle I am enabled to make straight,
as shewn in Figure 3. The cast-off is arranged to slide in bearings
attached to the ways which contain the.sliding bar h¹, and is operated to
move up and down by means of a forked arm » projecting from said bar.
The arm in its upward movement presses against a spring encircling the
cast-off, so that when the latter has been moved up as far as practicable

page_text: the sliding bar may move further up if necessary, the arm r¹ in this case
simply compressing the spring without moving the cast-off.
The operation of the needle in connection with the other parts of the
machine is as follows:-Supposing the awl and edge bender to be moved
back in order to take a fresh hold upon the work, the last support con-
sequently being raised and locked the awl descends and partly punctures
the work. The edge bender then moves forward and presses the edge
of the sole outward, and the channel guide is locked in place. The last
support then drops, the sliding head moves laterally toward the needle in
order to effect the feed until the point of the awl is brought over the
point of the needle which is in its lowest position. The sliding needle'
bar then rises, advancing diagonally, and the needle is caused by this
movement to pierce the sole, entering it at or near the bottom of the
outside chamfer until it meets the point of the awl in the work. The
last support rises with the needle, and when in contact with the work
remains in its elevated position until the feed again takes place as before
described. The sliding motion then ceases, and the upward stroke of
the needle is completed by the rotation of the stock, the needle passing
upward out through the sole in the channel or opening made by the awl,
which recedes as the needle advances. When the needle completes its
upward stroke the looper carries the thread around the barb, and at the
same time the awl and edge bender move back to take a fresh hold, the
needle still being in the work. The needle then withdraws by a rotary
movement, and when withdrawn its rotary motion ceases and the sliding
bar h¹ drops, drawing up the loop, and the awl and edge bender, taking a
fresh hold on the work, again feed the work forward.
In Figures 4, 5, and 6 I have represented this Invention as applied
to a machine with a straight needle reciprocating up and down in right
lines. Figure 4 is a side elevation of the machine with a straight needle
operated from the cam shaft. Figure 5 is a front elevation of the same.
Figure 6 is a side elevation of the needle and edge bending and feeding
mechanism detached.
The machine in its general arrangement and construction is similar to
that above described, and therefore an extended description of it is not
here necessary; a is the awl, and the edge bender, arranged to operate
as before described; with them may be combined the channel guide c
also herein-before described. In lieu of the curved needle, I now
represent a straight one d, provided with a cast-off c, and operating in

page_text: the usual manner. For the purpose of holding the sole far enough out
from the last to afford sufficient space between the two to allow the
edge to be bent out of the path of the needle, I employ a separator or
opener f consisting of a bar or metallic strip with a hook-like projection
on its front end, which is inserted between the sole and the last, as
shown in Figure 3, so as to hold the two at the proper distance apart.
The separator is arranged on one side of the needle and at the point
where the awl descends to partly pierce the sole preparatory to the feed
and edge bending operations. The awl descends and partly pierces the
sole, and having thus penetrated and taken a hold upon the sole, it
maintains it away from the last while the edge bender bends the edge
over the point of the awl, and while the two move toward the needle to
effect the feed. In this manner by the combined action of the awl and
opener or separator sufficient space is maintained between the sole and
last to allow the edge to be bent entirely out of the path of the needle,
and the awl and edge bender are thus enabled to operate, in the manner
herein-before described, with a last of ordinary construction and in
connection with a reciprocating straight needle. The motion of the
edge bender is timed slightly differently from that of the edge bender
when used without the separator. In the present instance it moves
toward the sole, at first, only enough to grasp it with sufficient tightness
to carry along the work in connection with the awl, when the forward
movement of the feed begins; then, when the work has sufficiently
advanced to clear the edge bender and awl from the separator, the edge
bender during the progression of the feed again takes up its movement
against the sole until the edge of the latter is bent entirely back out of
the way of the needle

page_text: of the separator in contact with the sole, is so shaped and rounded that
it will not mark or indent the sole. On the under side of the standard.
is a set screw o, by means of which the separator may be slightly raised.
or lowered, according to the depth of the outside chamber of the sole.
The combination of the awl, edge bender, and separator has been
described as used with a straight needle, and it is of course of special
value in this connection; but it may also be used with a curved needle,
and will even in this case facilitate the easy operation of the machine.
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of the
said Invention, and the manner in which the same is or may be used or
carried into effect, I would observe in conclusion that what I consider to
be novel and original, and therefore claim as the Invention secured to
me by the herein-before in part recited Letters Patent is,-
1st. The combination with a vertically reciprocating straight awl of a
vibratory rotary curved needle, supported on a stock having a recipro-
cating sliding movement toward and away from the awl in a path at an
angle to the path of movement of the latter, substantially as described,
so that the awl shall enter the work from one side, and the needle shall
then be caused, by the sliding movement of its stock, to penetrate the
same from the opposite side, until it meets or nearly meets the awl,
and then to complete its course by its rotating movement following the
aperture made by the awl, which withdraws as the needle advances.
2nd. The combination of the awl and needle, constructed and operated
as specified in the preceding clause, with the looper, substantially as
shown and described.
3rd. The combination of the awl and edge bender, moving together
laterally to and fro, and operating to grasp the work and effect the feed,
substantially as herein shewn and described.
'
4th. In combination with the awl and edge bender, operating together
as described, the channel guide, moving to and fro laterally with the
same during the feed movement, and pressed alternately tightly and
with a yielding pressure on the work, substantially as shown and set
forth.
5th. The combination for the purpose of bending the edge or outside
chamfer of the sole of the awl and the edge bender, under the arrange-
11

page_text: inner channel to the proper depth, and the edge bender shall then bend
over the point of the awl that portion of the sole between the said point
and the edge of the sole, as set forth.
6th. In combination with the needle, awl, and edge bender, operating
together as described, the yielding last support, having an up-and-down
movement, and locked rigidly in place at proper intervals, substantially
as shewn and set forth.
Seventh. The combination with the sliding stock, which carries the
rotary needle, of the means herein described, or their substantial equi-
valent, for varying the length of movement of said stock, in order to
obtain loops of diffent sizes, as required for light or heavy work.
Eighth. The combination of the awl, edge bender, and channel guide,
all supported in and moving with a laterally sliding reciprocating head,
arranged in the frame of the machine above the needle stock, said parts
being actuated and operating together, substantially as herein shown and ]
set forth.
Ninth. The combination with the reciprocating sliding head, which
carries the awl and edge bender, of the means described, or their sub-
stantial equivalents, for varying the length of movement of said head,
and consequently regulating the feed.
Tenth. In a machine for sewing boots and shoes, the combination with
an awl and edge bender, operating together as herein described, of an
opener or separator, arranged to operate in connection with the said
parts and between the sole and the last, substantially in the manner and
for the purpose set forth, whether said combination be used in connection 2
with a straight or a curved needle.
In witness whereof, I, the said John Henry Johnson, have to this
my Specification set my hand and seal, this First day of October
One thousand eight hundred and seventy-two.
J. HENRY JOHNSON. (L.S.)