CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF TEXILE FABRICS
Year: 1850

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, RICHARD
SHIERS, of Oldham, in the County of Lancaster, Manufacturer, and JAMES
HEGINBOTTOM, of the same place, Manager, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by
Her Letters Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date at
Westminster, the Second day of December, in the fourteenth year of Her
reign, and in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty, did,
for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto us, the said Richard
Shiers and James Heginbottom, Her especial licence, full power, sole privilege
and authority, that we, the said Richard Shiers and James Heginbottom, our
exors, admors, and assigns, and such others as we, the said Richard Shiers
and James Heginbottom, our exors, adñors, or assigns, should at any time
agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times during the term
of years therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within England and Wales, and the Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, our
Invention of "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF TEXILE FABRICS;"
in which said Letters Patent is contained a proviso that we, the said Richard
Shiers and James Heginbottom, shall cause a particular. description of the
nature of our said Invention, and in what manner. the same is to be performed,
to be enrolled in Her Majesty's High Court of Chancery within six calendar
months next and immediately after the date of the said in part recited Letters
Patent, as in and by the same, reference being thereunto had, will more-fully.
and at large appear.

page_text: NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, we, the said
Richard Shiers and James Heginbottom, do hereby declare that the nature
of the said Invention, and the manner in which the same is to be performed,
is particularly described and ascertained in and by the Drawings hereto
annexed, and the following explanation thereof, that is to say -
Our improvements relate, firstly, to the production of those fabrics com-
monly denominated cotton tabby velvets, cotton Genoa velvets, and cotton
velveteens, and consists in using the floating or pile picks of weft; or a portion
of them, twice or more between the operation of any two of the binding
threads, thereby giving more floating weft to the face of the fabric in propor-
tion to the back, and consequently producing a fuller surface.
Secondly, in an arrangement of apparatus constituting a self-acting temple,
the peculiar feature of this part of our Invention consisting in the employment
of a rod or spindle situate within the selvage of the work. and kept in position
so as to effect a correct tension of the cloth by suitable apparatus.
Thirdly, the application of parts similar to our improved temple to the
purpose of effecting a parallel motion of fabrics, such as cords, velvets,
velveteens, and fustians, during the operation of cutting.
Our first improvement we shall illustrate by reference to the Diagram,
Fig. A, which represents on a magnified scale the section of a piece of velvet
woven according to the most ordinary method, the weft being floated over five
warp threads; according to such plan there are eight picks to constitute a
round of work. The first motion of the tappets produces what is called the
"back binder," the three following dispose the warp threads so as to receive a
like number of floating picks, after which the middle binding is effected, and
the course completed by three other floating picks. In order to effect our
improvement we arrange the tappets or other apparatus for shedding the warp
so as to obtain a greater number of picks to the round, such additional picks
being used for floating the weft thread over the warp, those which effect the
binding of the yarns being used as in ordinary velvet or velveteen weaving.
Thus in the Diagram A, supposing the "back binder" to have been worked,
we float at three picks the threads represented by the red, blue, and yellow
lines, after this the usual operation would be to effect the "middle binding;"
according, however, to our improvement, the floating represented by the three
colored lines is repeated, and then the middle binding takes place, the same
operation being carried on between this and the next binding shed. Instead
of working the three floating threads one after the other as above described,
and repeating the operation in that order, the red thread (for instance) may, if
desired, be floated twice following, then that shewn by the blue color the same

page_text: number of times, and subsequently the yellow line may perform the same
movements; in such case, however, the warp threads must be so worked as to-
secure the necessary selvages. We have spoken of the weft thread as being
used so that each one of the picks shall float over the warp twice between a
binding shed; if desired, however, only a portion of them may be so used, or
instead of twice only the whole or a part of them may be floated a greater.
number of times between the bindings, all of which variations will be readily.
understood by competent weavers. We have hitherto described our plan as
adapted to the most ordinary method of weaving such fabrics as aforesaid,
that is to say, the use of a weft thread floating over five warp threads; it will,;
however, be evident that the improvement may be employed where less or,
more warp threads are used between each floating, for instance, in that
arrangement for which Letters Patent were granted to Charles William
Resselmeyer and Thomas Mellodew, bearing date on or about the Second day
of November, One thousand eight hundred and forty-eight, and according to
which the fabric is produced by combinations of cight, nine, or more warp
threads with the weft. In order to adapt our improvement to this method it.
will merely be necessary to increase the number of picks to the round, and
apply them for producing a repetition of the floating as before mentioned.
We have described our improvement as relating to "cotton velvets and
"cotton velveteens," such being the terms usually employed to denote the
class of fabrics; if desired, however, other fibrous materials, as wool or flax,
may be introduced in the manufacture.
'
Our self-acting temple is shewn in several views of the accompanying Draw-
ings. Figs. 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, are detached views of the parts which immediately
operate upon the fabric, and as these exemplify the principle of operation we
will first of all describe them, and subsequently the application of the same to a
loom. a represents a boss of brass or other suitable material mounted so as to
be capable of sliding loosely upon a rod b, and pressed forward thereon by a
spiral spring c, until prevented from moving further by a stop pin d. Within
the boss a is formed a circular socket e extending through one end, as at a,
but partially closed at the other, as at a². Throughout the length of the boss a
is also formed a slot f, communicating with the circular socket e. The selvage
of the cloth to be kept distended is to be woven double, or in cases where
double cloth is produced in the loom such method of weaving will afford the
required condition. This doubly woven part is to be introduced through the
slot f, by which position a loop of the fabric will be situate in the circular
socket e. In this loop a short spindle g is then to be placed, as seen in
Figs. 4 and 5, one end thereof being towards the closed part a², and being

page_text: consequently prevented from moving further in that direction. Suppose one of
these apparatus affixed to any suitable stationary part at either side of the
loom, and each looped selvage placed therein, it is evident that the fabric may
be thereby held distended to any width. As the weaving proceeds the cloth
will be drawn forward by the usual taking-up machinery in the direction of
the arrow, Fig. 5; its loop at each side of the cloth therefore slides upon the
short spindle g, and passes onward through the longitudinal slot f, such slot
being formed in the boss a as far as the diameter of the circular socket e, that
is, as far as the cloth itself extends. This motion of the work will have
a tendency to carry forward the spindle g; but as the socket e is partially
closed at that end through which it would have to pass, it is, there arrested and
the cloth alone moves forward. By the application of the spring c the boss a
will possess a capability for yielding to a certain extent, so as to compensate
for unequal tension of the work.
Thus far we have described the principle upon which our improved temple
is constructed, and for some cases of weaving it may be used simply as
described, that is to say, an apparatus similar to the foregoing applied to any
stationary part at either side of the loom, by which arrangement it will
be evident that the cloth will be kept evenly distended at all periods of its
production. In general, however, we prefer so mounting the apparatus that a
loosening of the tension may be occasionally effected, so as to admit of the
work being drawn forward more easily; and we will now proceed to describe
a method by which this operation may be effected, without, however, intending
to confine ourselves thereto, as many arrangements may readily be adopted
for accomplishing the desired object.
Fig. 6 is a partial end elevation of a loom with the improvement applied;
Fig. 7, a sectional elevation taken about the line 1, 2, and looking towards the
left hand of Fig. 6; Fig. 8, a plan or horizontal view, a portion of the breast
beam being removed at either end, in order to expose the parts which are
situate beneath; and Fig. 9, a partial section taken at the line 3, 4, of Fig. 8,
aad looking towards the right hand. In these Figures we have shewn the
loosening apparatus differently constructed at each end of the loom, in order
to explain slight modifications; they may, however, if desired, be similarly
arranged.
We will first describe the operation in reference to the left-hand apparatus
of Fig. 7. The boss a is mounted, as already described, upon a rod b, which
in this instance is affixed to an upright stud h mounted so as to be capable of
turning in the breast beam i of the loom, and in a bracket attached thereto.
Upon the lower end of the stud his affixed a bell crank arm j, one end of

page_text: a
bar r, r, capable of
This bar carries with
which is formed with a notch that projects against a latch k, which latch is
mounted so as to be capable of turning upwards upon a fixed centre, but is
continually drawn downwards through the intervention of a weighted cord l.
The cloth stretched to its proper width has a tendency of course to draw the
boss a, through which it passes in the direction of the arrow, Fig. 8, but is
prevented from so doing by the situation of the bell crank lever against the
latch k, until the latter shall have been raised. This is effected in the following
manner-Upon a stud affixed to the framework of the loom there is mounted
a ratchet wheel m, which at every advance of the lathe is caused to move
through the space of one tooth by the agency of a driving click n, and is
prevented from revolving in the other direction by a detaining click o. On the
side of the ratchet wheel there is a projecting stud p, which arrives at each
perfect revolution in contact with an inclined piece affixed to an upright
spring q, so as to force it inwards at stated intervals. The spring q at its
upper end is situate between two pins projecting from
sliding backwards and forwards in guide pieces 3, 8, 8.
it a piece t, which extends beneath the under side of the latch k; upon the
spring q, therefore, being caused to move inwards, its upper end will carry
forward the bar r and with it the piece t, which moving along the inclined
side of a nib u will lift the latch free from the arm j, so as to allow the
tension of the cloth to draw the temple a inwards by turning the stud h upon
its centre of motion, as shewn by the dotted lines in Fig. 8. This operation
will have effected a loosening of the woven loop within the socket e, so
as to admit of the fabric being readily drawn forward.
At the next
vibration of the lathe a piece r will arrive in contact with the projecting
part j* of the arm j, and force it backward to its former position, causing the
stud h to turn back upon its centre, and again effect a stretching of the cloth
to the desired width; during which operation the ratchet wheel m will have
been carried forward another tooth, so as to move its stud p free from the
spring q, which will then by its elasticity convey back the sliding rod r, so as
by liberating the part t from the inclined nib u to allow the latch k to fall
into its former position, and so secure the arm j, as before described. These
movements will, of course, effect the same results at the other side of the loom
if similar appliances be adopted; we have, however, as before mentioned,
shewn them somewhat varied. Instead of the latch k there is a stationary
piece w affixed to the sliding bar r, and against which piece a notch of the arm
jis situated, as described in reference to the other side of the machine. The
sliding motion of the bar r at the same time that it lifts the latch k will carry
the fixed piece w beyond the end of the notch of the arm j, which will then be

page_text: at liberty so as to allow the spindle h* to turn upon its centre and effect the
desired slackening of the temple. The next vibration of the lathe will restore
the tension, as already explained, by bringing the piece in contact with the
arm, and the return motion of the sliding barr again bring the piece w into
the requisite position with reference to the arm j* for keeping the cloth
distended. The intervals at which the slackening of the cloth shall take place
may be regulated at pleasure by altering the number of teeth in the ratchet
wheel, so as to bring its tappet p more or less frequently into contact with:
the inclined plane of the spring q. The method by which the loops are woven.
at the selvages of the cloth may be of any ordinary arrangement; the warp
threads A, B, for instance, of the necessary width being connected to shafts.
distinct from those of the other part of the cloth, and having shedding motion
imparted thereto suitable for the production of double cloth, as is well under-
stood. When the whole width of fabric is produced double, the additional
shafts will not, of course, be required.
Our improved method of keeping fabrics distended so as to move in a
parallel direction during the operation of cutting is shewn in Figs. 10 and 11:
of the accompanying Drawings. The fabric intended to be cut is to be woven
with loops at the selvages or woven double, as before mentioned. The work
beam is then placed in a suitable framework, and the cloth conducted through
an apparatus, as shewn at a, similar to that described in reference to Figs. 1
to 5. In this instance an occasional slackening of the fabric is not required,
the temple is therefore fixed by bolts or other suitable means to the frame-
work of the machine. From thence the fabric is passed around rollers b, c, d,
and between bars at e, f, g, h, to a beam i, passing previously, if desired,
through another guide temple at the situation C. In the plan view, Fig. 11,
we have only shewn one half of the machine; it will, of course, however, be
understood that the guides or temples are to be applied at each selvage of the
cloth, and in some cases it may be desired to mount those which are situate
on one side with springs or weighted levers, so as to be capable of yielding to
any inequality in the width of the fabric. The machine for drawing on the
cloth may be of any convenient construction; in the Drawing we have shewn
a certain arrangement, but such parts constitute no portion of our Invention.
Motion may be communicated to the surfaces for drawing the cloth forward in
any convenient manner, and if found necessary toothed wheels having rotary
motion imparted thereto may be employed for assisting the operation, as
shewn at j, j, k. The cutting may be effected by hand, with the use of the
ordinary knives, or they may be attached to bars placed across the machine,
as shewn in the Drawing, sufficient being employed to effect the cutting of the

page_text: whole of the loops, and space gained for the necessary number by placing
them on bars, so that each knife of a series shall occupy a position corre-
sponding to a space between two of an adjacent bar, as denoted by the posi-
tions of three cutters in Fig. 11.
Having thus described and ascertained the nature of our Invention, and
the manner in which the same is to be performed, we wish it to be understood
that we claim, as secured to us under the above in part recited Letters
Patent,
-
Firstly, as applied to the production of such fabrics as aforesaid, so regu-
lating the motions of the threads that the round of floating or pile picks, or a
portion thereof, shall come into operation twice or more between a binding.
Secondly, as applied to looms for weaving, the employment of rods or
spindles situated within loops formed at the sides of the fabric for the purpose
above set forth.
Thirdly, the employment of rods or spindles, situate as aforesaid, for the
purpose of causing looped or pile fabrics to move in a parallel direction during
the cutting operation.
In witness whereof, we, the said Richard Shiers and James Heginbottom,
have hereunto set our hands and seals, this Twenty-ninth day of May,
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-one.
JAMES
(L.S.) HEGINBOTTOM.
AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the Twenty-ninth day of May, in
the year of our Lord 1851, the aforesaid Richard Shiers and James Hegin-
bottom came before our said Lady the Queen in Her Chancery, and acknow-
ledged the Specification aforesaid, and all and every thing therein contained
and specified, in form above written. And also the Specification aforesaid was
stamped according to the tenor of the Statute made for that purpose.
Enrolled the Thirty-first day of May, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and fifty-one.