and Uppers of Boots and Shoes or other Materials.
Year: 1887

page_text: Date of Application, 20th Apr., 1887
Complete Left, 17th Jan., 1888
Complete Accepted, 23rd Mar., 1888
and Uppers of Boots and Shoes or other Materials.
I, DAVID YOUNG Bootmaker 5 Hanover Street Edinburgh do hereby declare the
nature of this invention to be as follows:-
In making slippers or pumps, the sole is pierced near the edge with an inseam awl,
or other suitable tool-The piercing is done on the inside of the sole, which is the
side applied or attached to the upper. The piercing does not penetrate through the
entire thickness of the sole; but takes a sloping direction, and comes through again
on the same side, about a quarter of an inch more or less from the point, or place,
where the awl, or other tool first entered.-This piercing is done all round the sole,
preferably lengthwise, after which strips or flattened rings of metal, or other material,
are inserted into the pierced sole, following the plane of the pierced hole, going in
and coming up on the same side of the sole, in a sloping, or slanting direction; and
preferably not passing completely through to the other side of the leather.-The afore-
said strips or flattened rings, have eyes, loops, or catches at each end, and after they
are inserted into the sole, said eyes, loops, or catches, project a little above the surfaco
of the sole, in proportion to the thickness of the upper used.
The sole is now tacked to the last, and the upper lasted in the usual manner over
the projecting eyes, catches, or loops: said eyes, catches, or loops, are caused to pierco
the upper where it folds over; or the upper may be pierced so that, said eyes, catches,
or loops, may be reached, after which a wire or other suitable material is passed
through the eyes, catches, or loops, holding, bracing, and binding, the upper firmly
to the sole.
The last can now be withdrawn, the slipper or pump turned, the insole or sock-lining
inserted, after which the fastening or sewing can neither be seen, nor felt, as is the case
with band sewn goods.-The slippers and pumps are finished in the usual manner.―
When strong boots and shoes with welts, and plies, are made, the insoles are treated
in exactly the same manner as the slipper or pump sole. The insole is pierced on the
side next the upper and welt, preferably not pierced through to the inside, so that
nothing may come through to touch, or hurt, the foot of the wearer.-The strips,
Pin Rd1

page_text: rings, wire, or other device and material, is inserted leaving the eyes, loops, or other
catches, and fastenings, projecting in proportion to the thickness of the upper, welt,
and ply or mid sole, through which the eyes, catches, and fastenings, must penetrate
or be reached. The outer sole having been prepared in the same manner as the
insole, by piercing through part of its substance in a sloping, or slanting direction,
on the side next the upper, welt, and ply or mid sole. The metal or other strips,
catches, or fastenings, with eyes, loops, or other catches, may be inserted into the
piercing if so desired.-The upper then is lasted in the usual way over the insole and
fastening. The sole may then be applied, and interlaced through its piercing or
fastenings, which are fixed in the insole, or, before the sole is put on, welts, plies or
mid soles, may be put on first; and the whole. sewn, laced, braced, or bound, firmly
together by means of a wire, or suitable material passing through and interlacing the
piercing and fastenings, which are provided in the soles and insoles.-The said wire
or other material being pulled or drawn with screw pincers, or otherwise, to bring
the whole solidly together, after which the fastening cannot be seen, or felt, either
from the outside, or the inside of the boot or shoe.

page_text: and Uppers of Boots and Shoes or other Materials.
I DAVID YOUNG Bootmaker No. 5 Hanover Street Edinburgh do hereby declare
the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement:―
In making slippers; or turned pumps; the sole is pierced near the edge with an
inscam awl or other suitable tool. The piercing is done on the inside of the sole;
which is the side applied or attached to the upper. Preferably the piercing does not
penetrate through the entire thickness of the sole; but; takes a sloping or slanting
direction and comes through again on the same side about a quarter of an inch or so
from the point at which the awl first entered.
This piercing is done all round the sole preferably lengthwise; after which strips of
metal or other material-said strips having a hole or eye at each end fig. 1-are
inserted into the pierced sole all round-said perforated strips now bending and
conforming in shape to the curve of piercing-it being advantageous to leave the ends
of the strips projecting upwards in proportion to the thickness of the slipper upper.
Elongated rings or loops may also be used for the same purpose fig. 2. The aforesaid
elongated rings; perforated strips; or loops conforming to the curve of each pierced
hole; and each end projecting upwards in proportion to thickness of upper.
The sole is now tacked to the last, and the upper lasted over the ends of the
projecting fastenings; said ends of fastenings being caused to pierce and pass through
the upper near the edge all round; and hold it securely in its proper position by said
fastenings being rivetted; bent; hooked; or interlaced in the case of elongated
rings or loops being used; the ends can be left long and interlaced through each
other and drawn tight-but; it is preferable to adjust the ends of the perforated strips
so that they may be flush or level with the upper after it is folded or lasted over them;
A wire or other material is now passed over the upper and through each of the holes
or perforations in the ends of fastenings fig. 3 fixing the upper firmly to the sole.
The last can now be withdrawn the shoe turned; the insole or socklining inserted
which covers the wire; and fastening ends; preventing them from being seen or felt
either inside or outside the shoe.
When strong boots and shoes with welts and plies are made the insole is treated
in exactly the same manner as the slipper or pump sole; It is to be prefered that the
perforated or looped fastenings do not pass through the entire thickness of the insole
but dip down in a slanting direction about half through; then turning slanting
upwards coming through again on same side from which they started; which is the
outside of insole; thus leaving the inside quite smooth for foot of wearer. When the
fastenings are inserted into the insoles; the perforated or looped ends are left
projecting in proportion to the thickness of the upper; welt; and ply or mid sole';

page_text: through the whole of which the ends of fastenings must penetrate or be reached; for
the purpose of passing a wire or other material through the perforated or looped
ends so as to bind and hold the whole firmly together, A slight gutter or open
channel may be drawn round the ply or mid sole; following the line of projecting
ends of fastenings; into which the wire lies as it is passed through the per-
forations at ends of fastenings; thus leaving a smooth level surface for the
outer sole to lie upon. If the outer sole is to be stitched to the ply, or welt, the
wire is passed through fastenings as shewn in fig. 3, but; if not stitched; then
the outer sole may be only pierced all round near the edge preferably not pierced
through its entire thickness but similar to the pump sole; or the insole; and inter-
laced through these piercings with the wire or other material which passes through
the perforated or looped ends of fastenings; and by means of said wire or other
material drawn down and fixed firmly to the ply or welt; But it is preferable to
insert fastenings all round the sole also; said fastenings or the projecting ends thereof
being flush or level with its inner surface; with a slight gutter or open channel
following the line of the perforated ends of fastenings; so that the edges of sole and
ply may come close together easily after the wire is inserted.
The outer sole is now applied to the boot as in fig. 4 and the wire is passed
alternately through the perforations in ends of fastenings which project through the
inner surface of the outer sole; and those which project through the welt or ply;
beginning preferably across point of toc and then along each side to heel; and so
the outer sole is drawn down and permanently fixed to the welt or mid sole, and thus
insole; upper; mid sole; and outer sole are drawn and attached firmly and
compactly together each end of the opposite projecting fastenings are laid or drawn
together by the wire until the holes or perforations at each end come opposite each
other and the wire runs straight through as shewn at toe or forepart of fig. 4 Screw
pincers can be used to draw the wire tight from the heel fig. 5.
To prevent the projecting ends of fastenings in the pump soles; or the boot insoles ;
from being bent down and twisted and to prevent the aforesaid soles and insoles from
being marked or shifted out of place; it is necessary to draw the uppers over the last
in the following manner fig. 6 A bar A of metal or other material is used-if for a
gents upper about eight inches long; one inch thick; and about two and a half
inches deep preferably made in sections; jointed; so that the bar may bend and
conform to the shape of the last. Screws B are inserted in each section; which hold
in position perforated slotted plates about two inches long C and perforated plates
about one inch long D. The slotted plates are slipped-preferably in pairs-under
the heads of screws B leaving the perforated ends projecting at each side of bar; the
short perforated plate D is laid on the top of the slotted plates; and also under the
head of the pinching screw B to give additional strength. At the ends of bar A
the slotted plates may be put on in groups of three or more; or else; the end plates
may be made broad at their perforated ends and three or more holes made E. When
the screws B are slackened the slotted plates can be drawn out and in to suit different
widths or lengths of lasts; and the screws B hold them firmly in position when
pinched down. Pincers; made, with a thumb screw in the head; and a screwed stalk
about three inches long; with a hollow thumb screw or crank handle working on the
screwed stalk are now provided F the screwed stalk of pincers is passed through the
end...holes of slotted plates; and the hollow thumb screws turned on the ends of each
stalk which prevents the pincers from falling out of the holes through which tho
screwed stalks are passed.
The bar A is now fastened to the last by means of tacks passing through holes
provided for the purpose but preferably by means of straps passing through slots G
and round the last, thereby preventing unnecessary holes in the insoles. The upper
is now applied to the last: The screw pincers are caused to take a firm hold all
round by means of thumb screws in leads thereof; beginning preferably at the toe ;
The crank handles or thumb screws H working on every end of screwed stalks all
round are now turned and tightened; and the upper is drawn gradually and tightly
over the last without bending or displacing the projecting ends of fastenings.

page_text: The projecting ends of fastenings are caused to pierce and pass through the upper
near the edge all round; thus holding the upper properly in position for the other
operations as herein described and set forth; so that the tacks or straps can be with-
drawn; the jaws of pincers opened by slackening the thumb screws in their heads;
and the whole upper drawing appliances removed.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said invention,
and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I claim is
1. A method of attaching the soles and uppers of boots and shoes together by
means of metal and other material without piercing through the entire thickness of
either the soles or the insoles.
2. The use of perforated strips of metal or other material; and also of elongated
rings or loops of metal or other material; for the purposes as herein set forth.
3. The use of a looped or straight continuous length of wire or other material for
the purposes as herein set forth.
D