or Series of Layers of Fibrous or other Material.
Year: 1886

page_text: or Series of Layers of Fibrous or other Material.
I, HERBERT JOHN ALLISON, of the firm of Allison Brothers, of 52 Chancery
Lane, London, in the County of Middlesex, Patent Agents, do hereby declare the
nature of this invention, which has been cominunicated to. me from abroad by
Gabriel Johan Wilhelm Galster, a subject of the King of Denmark, residing in New
York City, in the County and State of New York, 5 Beekinan St., (Mechanical
Engineer), and in what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement:—
My present invention relates to an improved device for cutting forms or patterns
from a layer or series of layers of fibrous or other material, adapted to be made up
into clothing or other devices in which sections of a given form or configuration
are essential to the perfection of the garment or article, when the sections are
united.
The accompanying drawings form part of this specification and illustrate what
I consider the best ineans of carrying out my invention.
Fig. 1, is a side view of my improved device.
Fig. 2, is a cross section taken on the line X, X, of Fig. 1.
Fig. 3, is a section taken on the line Y, Y, of Fig. 1.
Fig. 4, is a side view of a slight modification.
Fig. 5, is a corresponding section of the same.
Fig. 6, represents a side view of another slight modification.
Fig. 7, is a cross section taken on the line Z, Z, of Fig. 6.
Fig. 8, is an end view of Fig. 6.
Fig. 9, is a vertical section of Fig. 6.
Fig. 10, is a cross section on the line W, W, Fig. S.
Fig. 11, is a cross section on the line V, V, Fig. 8.
In each of the views similar letters of reference are employed to indicate
corresponding parts wherever they occur.
:

page_text: According to my present invention I arrange a bed plate A, having a tapering
forward portion A', adapted to pass under the layer or layers of material to be cut.
To the upper side of the bed plate is applied or affixed a vertical standard B,
adapted to support and control a fixed plate C, formed with a series of duplex
scissor edges c, and a vertically traversing plate D, provided with duplex scissor
edges d, adapted to act in conjunction with the duplex scissor edges of the plate C.
The projections c and d, of the plates or cutters C, D, are further provided with
the points 1, 1, and 2, 2, respectively, terminating on the same vertical line so that
when the machine is fed up to a solid mass of material the two cutters will engage
the material at the saine time.
Another distinguishing characteristic of my improved cutters growing out of the
use of the same in connection with a solid mass of material to be cut is the
sharpening of the points 2, 2, of the reciprocating cutter D. The points are
constructed of suitable size, shape and material to form sharp cutting points
adapted to sever the cloth or other material by a straight knife cut as dis-
tinguished from the shear cutting of the material by the meeting scissor edges of
the cutters. This straight cutting as I term it by the points of the reciprocating
cutter takes place during the upward and downward traverse of the cutter in a
manner that will be presently explained. The stationary cutter is not provided
with sharpened cutting points as it only cuts by means of its scissor-edges as they
cooperate with the corresponding scissor-edges of the movable cutter. It is evident,
however, that it would be clearly within the spirit of my invention to make both
cutters reciprocating in which case both cutters would be provided with cutting points
to sever the material before it enters the interstices between the scissor-edges.
The standard B, at its upper end is provided with a horizontal bearing E, adapted
to receive a shaft F, and also with an enlargement B', having a circular cam
recess E¹, in which revolves cam F¹, provided with a course f, in which is received
an anti-friction roller g, or other suitable device adapted to follow the course f, of
the eccentric F¹, and operate the traversing plate D, as hereinafter explained.
The anti-friction roller g, is pivoted on a pin affixed to the vertically traversing
plute D.
The standard B, as fully shown by the drawings is provided with a free-passage
way for the traversing plate D, and also with full coincident accomodation for
the fixed plate C.
The plates C and D, are held in correct relation by means of set screws h, h.
The set screws h, h, pass through slots in the traversing plate D, and are secured
firmly in the plate C, and the standard B.
The fixed plate C, is secured in position by set screws C¹, passing in the rear of
the traversing plate D, and secured in the standard B.
The layers of fabric to be cut from time to time are held in position upon the
bed plate A, by means of a presser foot I, which is formed in two parts 11, 13,
adapted to embrace the standard B, at any desired height while at the same time
it allows of the free passage of the cutting blades. The two parts I¹, I², of the
presser-foot I, are held together with any desired degree of tension, by means of
a clamping device J, which in the arrangement shown is provided with a female
screw adapted to engage with a male screw formed on the parts I¹, I², of the
presser-foot I,
The two parts I, I, of the presser-foot I, in the arrangement shown are
connected together in the front by a cross pin i, but in some cases I propose to
employ a hinge or other suitable joint in place of the pin i.
When it is desired to cut a series of layers of cloth, the two halves 11, 12, of the
presser-foot I, are allowed to expand by the withdrawal of the binding screw J.
The presser-foot I, can then be raised or lowered to the desired extent previous to
starting the cutting device.
Motion is communicated to the shaft F, by means of a flexible revolving shaft K,
as shown by Fig. 3, or any other suitable motive power.
P

page_text: The presser-foot I, in Figs. 1 to 3, inclusive is shown provided with a directing
and guiding handle L.
The fixed plate C, at its upper end is formed with an enlarged hend C*, which
forms the enclosing plate for the recess E¹, in which revolves the cam F'.
In the arrangement shown by Figs. 1 and 3, the enlarged head C*, is provided
with a central vertical slot C², for the reception of guide H, which carries the roller
working in the cam F¹.
In Fig. 1, I have shown by dotted lines rollers for the support of the device.
The operation of the device is as follows:-
ing forward portion A¹,
t; this being done, the
i the upper surface of
placed in position motion
cam F¹, to the vertically
When it is desired to cut up a layer or series of layers of fabric or material +
device is pressed forward by the handle L, so that the tap
of the bed plate A, shall come under the material to
presser-foot I, is brought into position to press sligi.
the material to be cut. After the presser-foot has bee
is imparted to the shaft F, and thence by means of the
traversing plate D.
The device may be guided as desired by means of the handle L, so as to cut any
desired pattern.
In Figs. 4 and 5, I have shown a slight modification of my device.
In this case
the handle L, is not connected to the presser-foot I, but is attached directly to the
upper portion of the vertical standard B. The binding screw J, in this case, is
independent of the handle L, and in place of being passed over the ends of the
sections I, I, it passes through the section I, and its shank is tapped to take into
a female screw in the section I¹.
The shaft F, in this modification is arranged to operate vertically instead of
horizontally and the cam F¹, is affixed on the periphery of the shaft F, instead
of at the end thereof.
The standard B, is extended vertically and is provided with bearings h*, for the
support of a driving shaft k, which is provided with a bevel wheel K¹, which
gears into another bevel wheel F, affixed on the end of the short hollow shaft F.
In other respects the operation of the device is similar to that described in
relation to the previous figures.
The traversing plate D, is operated by a subsidiary plate d², to the upper end of
which is attached an extension d³, to which is connected the shaft of the anti-
friction roller g, which works in the groove f, of the cam F', and vibrates the
traversing plate D.
Figs. 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 and 11, show another slight modification of the construction
of the improved cutter.
In this modification the cam F1, is arranged on the extension of a shank connected
to or forming part of the bevel wheel F, which is supported by and revolves upon
the extension B', of the standard B, which is provided with bearings for the bevel
wheel K', which is in this case driven by a universal joint I*, which is operated
by a flexible shaft.
In each of the modifications the construction and operation of the blades C, D,
are identical.
The cutting points being arranged as described on the same vertical line are
presented to the edges of the pile of cloth or fabric to be cut and when in that
position the sharp cutting points of the moving cutter sever the material by
a straight cut for a portion of their movement in the same manner as the teeth of
a cross cut saw or with the same effect as though the point of a knife blade were
carried down past and in contact with the fabric. As the cutter approaches the end
of its traverse the material entering the insterstices between the cutters is severed
by the meeting faces of the scissor-edges c¹, c, d, d. The points of the stationary
cutter enter the material to be cut for a slight distance and hold the same against
the upward and downward pull of the movable cutters. A partial cut is effected
both on the upward and downward motion of the plate C. The blades C, D, are

page_text: so constructed as to present little resistance to the passage of the device through
the fabric and the fabric when cut is readily freed from the cutting edges.
A partial cut is effected both on the upward as well as the downward motion of
the plate C.
By my peculiar construction of the cutting edges of the plates C, D, I am
enabled to ensure a perfectly clean and direct vertical cut and in addition the
drag on the fabric, which is common to all other cutters, is avoided.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is:
1. In a machine for cutting forms, a cutter composed of two blades or plates
moving one upon the other and each provided with a series of duplex scissor-edges,
and terminating in cutting points, said points on both blades extending to the same
vertical line whereby the blades are adapted to cut their way into a solid mass of
material.
2. The combination with the traversing bed plate and standard of a machine for
cutting forms from a layer or layers of fibrous or other material, of a fixed blade
and a vertically reciprocating blade each blade having inclined duplex scissor-edges
and the reciprocating blade being provided with sharp cutting points whereby the
blades are adapted to cut their way into a solid mass of material, as and for
the purpose described.
3. In an apparatus for cutting forms, a traversing bed plate, two blades projecting
up at right angles from the plane of said bed plate and provided with duplex scissor-
edges terminating in points which extend to the same vertical plane, the points of
one blade being sharpened as described, and means for giving to said latter blade
a vertically reciprocating movement, as and for the purpose described.
4. In an apparatus for cutting forms, the combination of a traversing bed plate,
a blade or plate projecting upward from the bed plate at right angles to the plane
thereof and formed with a series of duplex scissor-edges terminating in points,
a second blade similarly formed with sharpened points as described flush with the
points of the first blade and working in suitable guides carried by the bed plate,
à flexible shaft and intermediate mechanism for imparting a reciprocating movement
to the second cutter blade, as and for the purpose described.
5. In an apparatus for cutting forms, a cutter composed of a fixed blade provided
with a series of duplex scissor-edges terminating in points and a vertically recipro-
cating blade provided with corresponding duplex scissor-edges terminating in sharp
cutting points, the points of the stationary and reciprocating blades being arranged
on the same vertical line whereby the blades are adapted to cut their way into
a solid mass of material, as and for the purpose described.
6. The combination with the bed plate and standard, of an apparatus for cutting
forms of two vertical blades moving one upon the other, and a two part adjustable
presser-foot surrounding said blades and standard, and means for clamping the
same to the standard, as and for the purpose described.
Dated this 30th day of November 1886