IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF LEATHER, CLOTH, OR PAPER BEADING AND " THEREFOR be as follows
Year: 1886

page_text: Date of Application, 3rd June, 1886.
Complete Left, 3rd Mar., 1887.
Complete Accepted, 15th Apr., 1887.
I MARTIN GARNAR of Staple Street Long Lane Bermondsey Leather Manufacturer
do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE
MANUFACTURE OF LEATHER, CLOTH, OR PAPER BEADING AND
"
THEREFOR to be as follows:-
IN APPARATUS
The beading or piping herein referred to as forming the subject of the present
invention is intended for use in various industries, and particularly to boots, such for
instance as ladies, it being placed round the scolloped edges of the upper leather outside
the button holes or wherever required. The beading at present in use being snipped
or cut vertically from the edge upwards will only bend freely in one direction, that
is, opposed to the snips, consequently more trouble and attention is required to make
it follow the undulations of the scollop or other formed edge.
To remedy this defect I cut the edges of the material in the form of inverted cones,
that is to say like the teeth of a saw; by this means the strip of material can be bent
in any required direction, so that the piping or beading can be readily placed in the
position required, as it will closely follow any outline, no matter of what form.
Hitherto the strips of material (leather or otherwise) for this particular branch of
industry have been 1 inch in width, but a saving of 25 per cent is effected by the
method I employ that is to say I use of an inch only, and by folding down the outer
edges to meet in the centre I am enabled to cut two strips at one and the same time
from a single piece.
The apparatus employed for the purpose consists of a vertical frame of suitable form
of wood or metal, in this are mounted and turn in suitable bearings, two horizontal
shafts, each of which bears a cog wheel at one of their ends, gearing one with the
other, whilst the opposite ends bear the cutting appliances, these consist of two discs

page_text: or wheels, one the uppermost, is plain, whilst the under one bears the cutting blades
of the form to be given to the strip of material.
A regulating screw at the head of the machine acts on a spring and so regulates
the pressure on the material by its depressing the upper shaft more or less as required
and so acting on the material which is fed to the machine by a table, thence passing
between the wheels or discs by which the material is cut.
The disc bearing the cutting blades is provided on each side with a rim which forms
a guide to the material in its passage.
The gear wheels actuating the machine can be worked by hand, pedal, steam power
or otherwise.
•
1
2 T
$00

page_text: Beading, and in Apparatus therefor.
I MARTIN GARNAR of Staple Street, Long Lane, Bermondsey in the county of
Middlesex, Leather Manufacturer and Dyer do hereby declare the nature of the said
invention for IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF LEATHER CLOTH, OR PAPER
BEADING AND IN APPARATUS THEREFOR and in what manner the same is to be
performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:
The beading or piping herein referred to as forming the subject of the present
invention is intended for use in various industries and particularly to boots such for
instance as ladies it being placed round the scolloped edges of the upper leather
outside the button holes or wherever required.
The beading at present in use being cut or snipped vertically from the edge
upwards it will only bend freely in one direction that is opposed to the snips conse-
quently their is more care and attention required in making it follow the undulations
of the scolloped or other formed edge.
To remedy this defect I cut the edges of the material in the form of inverted cones,
that is to say like the teeth of a saw by this means the strip of material can be bent
in any required direction so that the piping or beading can be readily placed in the
position required as it will closely follow any outline no matter of what form.
Hitherto the strips of material, leather or otherwise for this particular branch of
industry have been 1 inch in width, but a saving of 25 per cent is effected by the
method I employ that is to say I use of an inch only and by folding down the outer
edges so as to meet in the centre, I can by this means cut two strips at one and the
same time from a single piece. The apparatus employed for the purpose consists of a
vertical frame of suitable form of wood or metal in this are mounted and turn in
suitable bearings two horizontal shafts each of which bears a cog wheel at one of their
ends gearing one with the other whilst the opposite end of the machine bears the
cutting appliances these consist of two disks or wheels one the uppermost is plain
whilst the undermost bears the cutting blades or device on its periphery, of the form
to be given to the strip of material. A regulating screw at the head of the machine
acts on a spring and so regulates the pressure on the material by its depressing the
upper shaft more or less as required and so acting on the material which is fed to the
machine by a table thence passing between the wheels or disks by which the material
is cut, the disk bearing the cutting blades is provided on each side with a rim this
forms a guide to the material in its passage.
The gear wheels actuating the machine can be worked by hand, pedal, steam power
or otherwise.
Fig. 1 of the accompanying drawings represents a perspective view of the
mechanical folder, consisting of a plate A, on which is mounted the piece B, which

page_text: bears a pressure regulating spring C, which regulates the pressure on the piping
cords D. D, by aid of a screw at the top of the forked piece B.
Figs. 2 and 3 are details of the cord and material guide hereafter described. Fig. 4
shows the folding device G.
Fig. 5 shows a piece of the piping or beading as cut by the machine.
A strip of material, leather, cloth, paper or other substance is inserted in the slit E
Fig. 2, in the guide box F, it passes thence to the conical folding device G, with
divider G; the cords D. D being inserted in the holes H. H. and from here through
the cord guides I. I; these latter are adjustable by the screws J. J. in the slots K. K
in the plate A.
Having left the folder the strip of material D³, with the cords D. D, one on each
side makes its exit folded as shown D³, thence it passes between two rollers L. L'
Fig. 6 the lower one of which L' is provided on each side with a groove M to admit
the cords; the upper wheel L presses on the material between the cords and fixos it
together, it being coated with some adhesive matter.
Having left these pressing wheels the material passes to the cutting wheel or disk N
Fig. 7 with grooves M as in Fig. 6. and for a like purpose above this is another.
wheel O which merely presses on the material between the cords to keep it in position
whilst the under wheel on which the cutting surfaces or saw shaped teeth appear on
its periphery, this latter wheel cuts the material in the centre into two distinct strips
at one and the same time so producing two strips of material having saw shaped teeth
thereon (vide Fig. 5.) as already described as being the essence of the invention.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I claim is
1st. The novel method of folding a strip of material so that when cut in the centre
by the cutting disk with saw shaped teeth two lengths are cut from one piece.
2nd. The apparatus for effecting this consisting of the plate A pressure regulating
spring C, and forked support B, cord and material guide box F, cord guides I. I.
adjustable in the slots K. K. by the screws J. J. conical folder G, with divider G¹.
3rd. A cutting wheel bearing on its periphery the cutting blades in form of a
zigzag for cutting the saw shaped teeth on the material.
D: 9 of Mol 1987