Turn-shoe Sewing Machine for Sewing the Soles to Uppers of Boots and Shoes.
Year: 1894

page_text: Date of Application, 19th Apr., 1894
Complete Specification Left, 13th Feb., 1895-Accepted, 23rd Mar., 1895
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Turn-shoe Sewing Machine for Sewing the Soles to Uppers of Boots
and Shoes.
We JOHN CUTLAN and JAMES CUTLAN both of 8 Cranwich Road Stamford
Hill N. London Machinists do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as
follows:-
The
The invention consists of iron frame to stand on a table driven by a wheel under
the table with a belt connected to a fly wheel on machine with three gear wheels
connecting three shafts running through the iron frame. The top shaft runs
through the frane driving the needle bar by means of a cam at the end of shaft, the
end of frame being grooved to receive the needle bar and presser-foot plates are
screwed in the front of frame to support the needle bar and presser foot to allow it.
to slide easy. The spool of thread is arranged on the back part of frame the
thread from spool passes through a tube and through the top end of needle bar, the
needle bar is hollow the thread passing through the eye of the needle.
tightening of the thread is worked by a cam and is tightened with a plate against
the plate that supports the needle bar and presser foot at the time required. There
is a stand bolted on the frame of machine that takes the needle plate. There are
grooves made in needle plate so that a small chain works in the same that being the
feed to carry on the work. A spur wheel carries the chain along forming length of
stitch. The spur wheel is fastened on the end of the shaft that runs through the
lower part of frame it has a universal joint to run the feed at any angle to suit the
work being moved by a cam and connecting rod from the second shaft with a
ratchet on the feed shaft. The third shaft of machine passes through the frame
under the needle plate a looper is fastened to end of shaft that takes the thread
from eye of needle and forms the loop. When hard wax is used the machine is kept.
hot by means of gas or lamp.
Dated this 19th day of April 1894.
JOHN CUTLAN.
JAMES CUTLAN.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Turn-shoe Sewing Machine for Sewing the Soles to Uppers of Boots
and Shoes.
We, JOHN CUTLAN, and JAMES CUTLAN, both of 8, Cranwich Road, Stamford
Hill, in the County of London, Machinists, do hereby declare the nature of this
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
This invention relates to improvements in sewing machines and has for its object
to adapt an ordinary sewing machine having a straight needle for that class of boot
and shoe sewing known as turn-shoe work.
According to our invention we arrange the needle-plate or work-support in an
inclined position and we provide a feed-mechanism which consists of chains running

page_text: in grooves formed in the work-support, the said feed-mechanism being driven from
a wheel' having a series of spurs or arms. The shaft carrying the said wheel is
placed at an angle corresponding with the inclination of the work-support and is
operated from a horizontal shaft with which it is connected by a universal joint, a
tension device being employed to keep the chains tant. The feed-mechanism is
operated through the medium of ratchet mechanism on the said horizontal shaft.
Upon the plate carrying the needle-bar and presser-foot is fixed a gripping
device which we employ for holding the thread during the time that the needle-bar
is moving upwards and drawing a fresh supply of thread for the next stitch from
the spool, the said gripping device being operated to grip the thread under the
action of a spring and moved to release the thread by the contact therewith of a
cam-surface on the needle-bar. The needle-bar is hollowed out to receive the thread
and a tube is provided on the upper part of the machine through which the thread
passes from the spool to the needle-bar.
To enable our invention to be fully understood we will describe the same by
reference to the accompanying drawings, in which :-
Figure 1 is a side elevation of a machine constructed according to our invention :
Figure 2 is a front elevation of the same:
Figure 3 is a vertical transverse section on the line 3-3, Figure 1:
Figure 4 is a sectional elevation of the front portion of the machine drawn to an
enlarged scale :
Figure 5 is a sectional plan, the section being taken on the line 5-5, Figure 4:
Figures 6, 7 and 8 are respectively a side elevation, a transverse section and a
plan of a portion of one of the chains for feeding the work, the said views being
drawn to a exaggerated scale.
a is the framing of the machine; the driving shaft, e the needle operating shaft,
and d the hook or looper shaft, the said shafts c and d being driven from the shaft b
through the medium of gearing as clearly shewn in Figure 1.
e is the needle-bar which slides in suitable guides in the head of the frame a and
is provided with a slotted cross-bar e in-which the pin eof a crank on the end of
the shaft c engages in a well known manner to cause the vertical reciprocation of
the said needle-bar. is the presser-foot which also slides in suitable guides in the
head of the frame and is provided with a spring f1 which normally tends to hold
the presser-foot against the work and with a cam for lifting the presser-foot from
the work against the pressure of the spring in the ordinary manner.
g is the thread.spool or bobbin arranged in a frame or box g'on the upper rear
part of the frame a, and 9 is a tube through which the thread passes from the
bobbin to the needle-bar. is a thread-guide consisting of a pillar ¹ carrying
upon it an adjustable block h³ provided with a downwardly projecting pin h³,
between which pin and the pillar the thread is caused to pass.
i is the inclined needle-plate or work-support which is supported upon or formed
in one piece with a bracket i attached to the base of the machine and made hollow
or cup-shaped so as to receive the looper hook within it, as shewn most clearly in
Figure 4, the said work-support also forming the bearing for one end of the looper-
shaft d. In practice the said looper-shaft is made in two parts one of which carries
a Bocket d'in which the adjacent end of the other part of the shaft is fixed by
means of a set-screw d, this arrangement- being provided to permit of readily
adjusting or removing and replacing the looper when required.
j, jare the feed-chains which run in grooves in the work-support i and also
around the arms or spurs of the wheel k mounted on the inclined shaft ¹ carried in
a bearing in the bracket i²:
I is the horizontal shaft to which the inclined shaft is connected by a universal
joint, and m is a ratchet wheel mounted on the shaft and engaged by a pawl m
for imparting motion to the feed wheel kand the chains j, j.
The pawl m' is carried by an arm a pivotally mounted upon the shaft / and
carrying a lever n' to which is attached one end of a connecting rod n³ the other
end of which is bifurcated to slide on a block on the driving shaft as a guide

page_text: and carries a roller o running in the groove o of a cam o' on the said driving shaft ;
the arrangement being such that when the driving shaft is rotated the arin n will
be oscillated and caused through the medium of the pawl which it carries to impart
motion to the ratchet wheel m and consequently also to the feed-wheel k.
To adjust the length of the feed, we arrange the lever so that it can be
lengthened or shortened, the said lever, as shewn, sliding through an aperture in an
extension of the arm n and being fixed in any position by means of a set-screw p.
In order that the feed-chains shall always be stretched taut, we arrange the
bearing 2 to slide in the bracket and to the said bearing we attach a rod
carrying a spring r arranged between an abutment upon the base of the machine and
a nuts on the end of the rod in such a manner that the said spring normally tends
to pull down the bearing 2 and thereby draw the wheel k away from the work-
support i.
The construction of the feed-chains will be understood by reference to Figures 6,
7 and 8, the said chains being each composed of a series of flat links t connected
together by rivets t', cach link being provided with two teeth t2, 1. The length of
the several teeth is so proportioned that the toothed surface will have an angle
somewhat similar to that shewn in Figure 7. These chains are arranged in the
grooves of the work-support i so that the highest edges shall be uppermost and form
teeth or projections which will prevent the work from slipping downwardly upon
the work-support under the pressure of the needle as will be readily understood by
reference to Figure 4.
is the gripping device which we employ for holding the thread during the
upward movement of the needle-bar.. This device comprises a bell-crank lever o
pivotted at upon a lug or extension of the front plate 3 of the head of the
machine and at one end working between two lugs w, w on the head of the machine
and carrying at the other end a regulating screw which is acted upon by a
spring also fixed to the extension, the said spring normally serving to press the
free end of the bell-crank lever towards the plate v. On the said free end of
the lever v is fixed a projection y having a hole y through it, and in the lugs w, w
are formed other holes y, through which holes y', the thread is passed in the
manner shewn in Figure 4.
The upper part of the slot in the needle-bar e is formed with an inclined plane =
so placed that as the needle is entering the work it will act against the end of the
pin or projection y to force back the lever against the pressure of the spring r',
When,
thereby allowing the thread to freely pass through the gripping device u.
00
however, on the upward movement of the needle the incline z passes above the
projection y, the lever is moved towards the plate by the spring and grips
the thread so that the latter cannot slide through the gripping device u, the result
being that the continued upward movement of the needle-bar, through the upper
part of which the thread is passed as shewn in Figure 4, causes a certain length of
thread to be drawn from the spool ready for the next stitch.
In the operation of our machine the work is firmly held upon the work-support
against the feed-chains in such a position that the needle will enter the channel in
the sole and each time that the needle moves out of the work the feed-chains will
feed the same along the required distance.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what wo
claim is:-
1. In a straight needle sewing machine an inclined work-support having grooves
in which chains for feeding the work slide, substantially as, and for the purpose,
described.
2. In a sewing machine, feed-mechanism consisting of a chain or chains running
in a groove or grooves formed in the work-support, the said chain or chains being
driven from a wheel having a series of spurs or arms around which the chain or
chains passes or pass, substantially as, and for the purpose, described.

page_text: 3. In a sewing machine having an inclined work-support and a chain feed-
mechanism of the kind herein before described, the arrangement of a universal joint
for communicating motion to the inclined shaft of the feed-wheel, substantially as
described.
4. In a sewing machine having a chain-feed of the kind herein before described,
the combination with the wheel over which the chain passes and through the
medium of which motion is communicated thereto of a tension device for making
the feed chains taut, substantially as described.
5. In a sewing machine of the kind herein described and having a vertically
moving needle-bar, the combination with the said needle-bar of a gripping device
such as u which operates to grip the thread under the action of a spring and is
moved to allow the passage of the thread by means of an incline or cam-surface
upon the needle-bar, substantially as described.
6. In a sewing machine of the kind herein described having a vertical needle-bar
forming the said needle-bar with a groove or recess to receive the thread, substantially
as described.
7. In a sewing machine having a work-support of the kind bereinbefore described,
forming the looper shaft in two parts, substantially as set forth.
8. The improved sewing machine for turn-shoe work consisting of the parts
constructed and combined substantially in the manner herein before described and
illustrated in the accompanying drawings and operating as, and for the purposes,
described.
G. F. REDFERN & Co.,
4, South Street, Finsbury, London, Agents for the Applicants.