The Manufacture and Production of a New Kind of Lace.
Year: 1894

page_text: Date of Application, 29th May, 1894
Complete Specification Left, 16th Feb., 1895-Accepted, 23rd Mar., 1895
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
The Manufacture and Production of a New Kind of Lace.
We HENRI FRANÇOIS MOREAU and LUCIEN CANEVET both of 21 Boulevard
Poissonniere Paris in the Republic of France do hereby declare the nature of this.
invention to be as follows:-
-
This invention relates to the manufacture of lace by machinery, the designs:
being formed by very thick threads which are but very slightly twisted, or not.
twisted at all, a result which it has been deemed impossible to attain bitherto.
The lace, thus produced by means of non-twisted, or very slightly twisted,
threads, assumes an appearance distinguishing it from all other kinds of lace
heretofore made, and presents certain peculiar characteristics of its own which
constitutes it a novel article of manufacture.
Up to the present time thick threads, unless they were twisted, have been con--
sidered as unfit for the manufacture of lace, for the reason that the several parts.
or devices constituting the looms employed in the lace and tulle manufacture, "do-
not afford sufficient space for their passage, the consequence being that the strands,
of which the said threads consist, if not twisted, get caught and entangled in the
points or teeth of the looms in question, so that the threads become frayed out
almost directly, thereby rendering the continued operation of the loom altogether
impossible, besides being a frequent cause of deterioration and damage to the
operative parts of the loom.
Our invention consists in making use of non-twisted thick threads, not in the
shape or condition in which they are found in the market-but after having first-
enveloped them each in peculiar cases or sheaths which, while protecting them
from damage, reduce their thickness to a minimum, and consequently facilitate
their passage through the loom and at the same time renders them incapable of
deteriorating the mechanism.
The case or sheath in question is preferably formed of a thin thread spirally
wound by any suitable means around the non-twisted thick thread, though it will
be understood that the said sheath or case may be produced in any other convenient
manner. The nature of the thin thread employed in forming the protecting and
width-reducing case or sheath will, of course, have to be varied according to the
nature or origin of the thick threads; thus for example in the case of the thick non-
twisted thread consisting of floss silk or what is known as Algerian silk the sheath.
or envelope is preferably of thin cotton yarn.
The non-twisted thick thread, thus enveloped, may be employed in the ordinary
manner and requires no alteration whatever in the construction of the loom, as it.
will easily pass between the carriages of the loom and may be worked by the
points thereof without being frayed, torn or broken.
The loom employed in working the threads, prepared in this manner, into lace,
may be arranged or adjusted for either full gauge or half gauge operation, at will
the term "half gauge "being understood to mean the arrangement whereby the
operative mechanism of the loom is, as it were, reduced by half, that is to say,
wherein every other carriage is removed or dispensed with.
The lace obtained by means of these threads is then subjected to an operation
the object of which is to remove the protecting cases or sheaths from the nou-
twisted thick threads. When this operation is completed, the threads, being no
:

page_text: longer compressed by the said sheaths, spread out, and form a groundwork which
imparts to the lace the entirely novel appearance of a somewhat thick and brilliant
material, an appearance which it has hitherto been quite impossible to approach,
owing to the impossibility of employing untwisted threads of considerable thickness.
For the removal of the protecting and width-reducing sheaths any suitable hand
mechanical, chemical or other operation may be employed. Thus when the case is
made of cotton yarn, it is only necessary to steep the lace into an acid bath which
will burn away the cotton and leave the silk intact, the last vestiges of the cotton
being removed by subsequent washing.
Dated the 29th day of May 1894
JOHNSONS & WILLCOX,
47, Lincoln's Inn Fields, London, Agents.
The Manufacture and Production of a New Kind of Lace.
WE HENRI FRANÇOIS MOREAU and LUCIEN CANEVET; both of 21 Boulevard
Poissonnière, Paris in the Republic of France, do hereby declare the nature of
this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement:—
This invention relates to the manufacture of lace by machinery, the designs
being formed by very thick threads which are but very slightly twisted, or not
twisted at all, a result which it has been deemed impossible to attain hitherto.
The lace thus produced by means of non-twisted, or very slightly twisted, threads,
assumes an appearance distinguishing it from all other kind of lace heretofore
made, and presents certain peculiar characteristics of its own
novel article of manufacture.
ich constitutes it a
Up to the present time thick threads, unless they were ted; have been
considered as unfit for the manufacture of lace, for the reason th e several parts
or devices constituting the looms employed in the lace and tulle anufacture, do
not afford sufficient space for their passage, the consequence being t. the strands,
of which the said threads consist, if not twisted, get caught and entangled in the
points or teeth of the looms in question, so that the threads become frayed out
almost directly, thereby rendering the continued operation of the loom altogether
impossible, besides being a frequent cause of deterioration.and damage to the
operative parts of the loom.
Our invention consists in making use of non-twisted thick threads, not in the
shape or condition in which they are found in the market, but after having first
enveloped them each in peculiar cases or sheaths, which, while protecting them
from damage, reduce their thickness to a minimum, and consequently facilitate
their passage through the loom and at the same time render them incapable of
deteriorating the mechanism.
The case or sheath in question is preferably formed of a thin thread spirally
wound by any suitable means around the non-twisted thick thread; though it will
be understood that the said sheath or case may be produced in any other con-
venient manner. The nature of the thin thread employed in forming the protecting
and width reducing case or sheath will, of course, have to be varied according to
the nature or origin of the thick threads; thus for example in the case of the thick
non-twisted thread consisting of floss silk or what is known as Algerian silk, the
sheath or envelope is preferably formed of thin cotton yarn.
The non-twisted thick thread, thus enveloped, may be employed in the ordinary
manner and requires no alteration whatever in the construction of the loom, as it
will easily pass between the carriages of the loom and may be worked by the
points thereof without being frayed, torn or broken.

page_text: The loom employed in working the threads prepared in this manuer into lace,.
may be arrangel or adjusted for either full gauge or half gauge operation at will,
the term "half gauge" being understood to mean the arrangement whereby the
operative mechanism of the loom is as it were reduced by half, that is to say,
wherein every other carriage is removed or dispensed with.
The lace obtained by means of these threads is then subjected to an operation
the object of which is to remove the protecting cases or sheaths from the non-
twisted thick threads. When this operation is completed, the threads being no
longer compressed by the said sheaths spread out, and form a groundwork which
imparts to the lace the entirely novel appearance of a somewhat thick and
brilliant material, an appearance which it has hitherto been quite impossible to
approach, owing to the impossibility of employing untwisted threads of con-
siderable thickness.
For the removal of the protecting and width-reducing sheaths any suitable
hand, mechanical, chemical or other operation, may be employed. Thus when the
case is made of cotton yarn, it is only necessary to steep the lace into an acid bath
which will burn away the cotton and leave the silk intact, the last vestiges of the
cotton being removed by subsequent washing.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what we
claim is :-
1. In the manufacture of lace, for the purpose of obtaining special designs br
the employment of non-twisted, or very slightly twisted, threads of any suitable.
material, the herein before described process consisting in enveloping the said
threads in a case or sheath of different and finer material, so as to compress the
non-twisted threads and to facilitate their passage in this condition between the
carriages of the looms, and without their being frayed out by the points thereof,
the said case or sheath being afterwards removed or destroyed by any suitable
mechanical chemical or other means so as to set free the thick threads and allow
them to expand or spread out and form the groundwork of the fabric, substantially
as specified.
2. In carrying out the process above referred to for manufacturing purposes;
(a) The formation of threads consisting of a core of non-twisted material, such
as Algerian or floss silk, and of an envelope made of cotton yarn, spirally
or otherwise wound around the fibres of the core, so that they are tightly
compressed and protected from injury,
(b) The employment of the thread thus prepared for the manufacture of lace
by means of an ordinary loom, arranged for either full gauge or half gauge
operation without the said thread being liable to be damaged by any of the
parts of the said loom, and without the parts of the loom being themselves
liable to injury, and
(c) The employment of an acid bath, into which the fabric or lace, when
completed, is steeped for the purpose of causing the cases, enveloping the
threads to be burnt away, so that the coarse non-twisted threads are set free
and may expand all substantially as set forth.
3. As a new article of manufacture, lace obtained by the process and means
claimed in the preceding claiming clauses and characterised by designs formed by
thick or coarse non-twisted threads upon any suitable woven groundwork, imparting
a peculiar thickness or relief, and a certain brilliancy to the said designs sub-
stantially as described.
Dated this 16th day of February 1895.
JOHNSONS & WILLCOX,
47, Lincoln's Inn Fields, London, W.C., Agents.