IMPROVEMENTS IN POWER LOOMS FOR WEAVING
Year: 1866

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Edward Newton, of the Office for Patents,
66, Chancery Lane, in the County of Middlesex, Civil Engineer,
for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN POWER LOOMS FOR WEAVING."―
A communication from abroad by William Breitenstein, of the City and
State of New York United States of Amerion.
Sealed the 1st June 1866, and dated the 3rd April 1866.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Edward Newton
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on
the 3rd April 1866.
I, WILLIAM EDWARD NEWTON, of the Office for Patents, 66, Chancery Lane,
in the County of Middlesex, Civil Engineer, do hereby declare the nature
of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN POWER LOOMS FOR WEAVING,"
to be as follows:-
The weaving of cloth suitable for making corsets to fit the swells and
protuberances of the body has been attended with serious difficulties. It has
been effected in hand looms, but at considerable expense on account of the
great amount and cost of labour. The required shape is produced in weaving
by making the cloth of different lengths in different parts of the widths.

page_text: Whenever a gore-like swell is required it is produced by interweaving the
warps and weft in such parts of the width, and suspending the interweaving
in the other parts of the width. The suspension of the interweaving operation
in certain portions of the width and along desired portions of the length of the
cloth is effected by suspending, the operation of the mail cords of the jacquard,
so that the weft thread cannot pass between the warps in the parts so
suspended, whilst it continues to be passed between the warps where the mail
cords continue to open the shed of the warps, and as the interweaving is
required to vary from small portions of the width to the whole width, and
sometimes to take place near one selvage and at other 'times towards the
opposite selvage, the shuttle thread is required to be carried across the whole
width at each operation. In weaving such like forms by hand the cloth as
woven is taken up by the weaver in the portions of the width in which the
interweaving has taken place; and when the interweaving takes place in less
than the whole width the weaver is required at each operation to pull by hand
the surplus weft thread, or else such surplus weft thread would be left
projecting from the surface of the cloth.
The present Invention relates to machinery for performing all of these
operations automatically. The jacquard machinery as heretofore is employed
to determine during the progress of the weaving, and at each operation, what
portion of the width of the warp is and what portion is not to be operated.
A mechanism termed the sectional take-up and operated by the loom takes
up the cloth as it is woven, either along the whole or any portion of the width;
and what portions of this mechanism is to be put in action at each operation
is determined by the jacquard; and a mechanism operated automatically by
the loom pulls out to the required extent the surplus of the shuttle thread
whenever the interweaving is performed on less than the whole width of the
cloth, and whenever the interweaving is extended across the whole width
the operation of this mechanism is suspended by the jacquard. The slay,
which receives motion in the usual manner from cranks at each end of the
main shaft, is suspended and has its axis of vibration above to afford more
room below for other parts of the mechanism.
The jacquard machinery is of the usual construction, and derives motion
from a crank on the main shaft by a connecting rod in the usual manner.
The warp is divided into equal sections, the number being determined by the
judgment of the constructor. It may for instance be divided into twenty
sections, each of which is wound upon a separate spool, and all the spools
are mounted on a creel or frame at the back of the loom. From the spools
each section passes over and under rollers, some of which are provided with

page_text: a tension weight, and from thence around a warp beam in the rear part of
the frame. All the warps extend from the beam through the mails of the i
jacquard cords, and then through the reed to the sectional take-up in front.
In this way each section of the warp can be supplied independently of the
others whilst all are under equal tension. The take-up is attached to the.
inner face of the breast beam of the frame, and should have as many sections.
as the warps.
There are twenty fluted rollers all of equal diameter and
length, and all mounted side by side on a journal bar secured to the ends of
the take-up frame, so that each roller can turn thereon freely. The woven:
cloth passes over this sectional roller and out in front over the breast beam,
and the cloth is griped on to the several sections of this roller by a series
of pressure rollers, one for each fluted roller. These pressure rollers are.
mounted in a series of short levers which are pressed down to gripe the cloth.
by the tension of a spring acting on each separately. The levers of the:
pressure rollers with their several springs are mounted in a frame which is
connected with the frame of the take-up roller, so that the whole series can
be lifted from the take-up rollers to liberate the cloth if desired, or their
griping pressure may be increased by turuing two screws which pass through.
holes in the ends of a bar of the frame and are tapped into the take-up
frame. Below the sectional take-up roller there is a series of ratchet levers,
one for each fluted roller. These levers all vibrate on a fulcrum rod mounted
in the take-up frame, and when their lower arms' are pushed towards the
breast beam their ratchet hands or pawls take into the flutes of the rollers,.
and turn them to take up the woven cloth. Cords extend one from each of
the levers, pass under a roller, and are attached to the mail cords of the
jacquard, the cord of each lever being connected with that section of the
mail cords of the jacquard which controls the corresponding section of the
warps, so that when any of the warps of a section are operated by a jacquard
the lever of the corresponding section of the take-up will be drawn towards
the slay until it strikes a stop bar, and as the range of motion of the mail
cord of the jacquard is greater than the motion given to the lever, the cord
which is attached to the lever has a section of india-rubber or other substance
which will yield, and when the slay makes its forward beat to beat up the:
weft thread a bar secured to the front face of the race beam of the slay will
strike the lever, vibrate it in the opposite direction, and thus turn the fluted
roller the required distance to take up the woven cloth. The jacquard merely
sets the levers of the take-up, and no portion of the power required to take
up the cloth is borne by the jacquard, but is all derived directly from the
lay. The shuttle is operated by a pair of carriers which slide in suitable
:

page_text: ways in the race beam of the slay. Both carriers are alike, and each consists
of a bar fitted to slide in the ways, and having a standard at the outer end
The shuttle
froin which an arm extends inward and parallel with the bar.
near its back edge is formed with a groove in its under side extending from
each end to within a short distance of the middle, which grooves receive the
arms of the carriers. The upper face of the shuttle is also grooved to receive
the inner end of the spring catch levers of the carriers, each of which at
the proper tinies catches over a cross pin in the groove to hold 'the shuttle on
the arm.
The shuttle being beld on the arm by the catch lever of one of the
carriers, and both carriers being set in motion towards the centre of the slay,
as the two carriers approach each other the arm and spring catch lever of the
opposite carrier enter the grooves of the shuttle, and the catch lever snaps.
over the cross pin in the shuttle groove and takes hold of the shuttle, and at
the same time the tail end of the catch lever of the carrier which carried the
shuttle in is depressed by a pin to liberate the shuttle. In this way the
first carrier is made to liberate the shuttle as the second takes hold of it, and.
the motion of the two carriers is then reversed to move them back to their
original positions, and in doing this the shuttle is carried entirely across the
warps to the other side preparatory to another operation in the reverse
direction. To guide the shuttle from one carrier to the other and to prevent
the arms and catch levers from catching against any of the warp threads
there is a thin plate attached to the back of each carrier, and as the carriers
approach the plates lap by each other and thus direct the shuttle and the
varriers so that the arm and catch lever shall properly enter. the grooves of
the shuttle. As the catch levers of the two carriers are to be opened
alternately to liberate the shuttle the pins for that purpose project from two
short armis hinged at their upper ends to the slay, and the lower ends of both
are connected by a rod so that they shall vibrate together. One end of this
rod is in turn connected by a link with one arm of a rock lever on the slay,
and this rock lever has two arms, which are alternately acted upon by
two tappets projecting from the back face of a tappet wheel that turns on a
stud pin on the slay. This wheel has four pins projecting from its front face
at equal distances apart, which are acted upon in turn by a spring catch
hinged to one of the carriers to turn the wheel a quarter of a revolution every
time the carriers approach each other in the middle of the slay. This
causes the tappets to vibrate the double lever alternately in opposite directions,
and thereby place the pins on the arms in the positions required alternately
to operate the catch levers of the carriers. The carriers are both moved
inwards towards the centre of the loom by 'canis on the main shaft, which

page_text: depresses two levers, the outer ends of which are connected by a bar, and
from the middle of this bar two straps or cords extend up and pass in
opposite directions each over a roller mounted in hangers from the under side
of the race beam. The ends of these cords are attached to arms extending
down from the carriers, and slide in slots made for that purpose in the race
beam. To these arms are attached two other straps which pass over two other
rollers near the end of the race beam, and extend down and are attached to
two levers, one on each side of the loom. These levers are depressed
simultaneously and at the required time by two cams on the main shaft.
For the purpose of drawing out the surplus weft thread after each throw
of the shuttle when the interweaving is performed on less than the whole
width of the cloth there are two thread pullers, one on each side of the loom.
The thread puller consists of a finger with the forward end curved a little
downward to prevent the thread from escaping from under it; it is hinged to
the upper end of a rod, and is provided with a spring which holds it at the
required angle to pull the thread, and the spring is of such delicate tension
as to yield and liberate the thread when it has been pulled to the requisite
extent. The rod is hinged to the end of a lever and held at the required
angle by the tension of a spring. The lever turns on a fulcrum at the back
of the loom, and is drawn upward by the tension of a spring, and it is
depressed by a cam on the main shaft. The thread comes out of the front
edge of the shuttle, and when the thread, puller is elevated the point of the
finger is between the front edge of the shuttle and the reed, and it gets to
that elevated position before the shuttle is brought home, so that when it is
depressed by the cam the finger is sure to catch the thread and pull it down
until the required tension is given to it to ensure that there shall be no
portion of it left loosely projecting from the surface of the cloth when woven.
When the interweaving is extended entirely across the whole width of the
warps the operation of the thread pullers must be suspended. To this end on
the side of the lever there is a projecting pin, against which a catch lever
catches to hold down the lever, and with it the thread puller in the depressed
position. The catch lever rests on the periphery of an oval cam on an arbor,
and from this arbor project four large ratchet teeth which are acted upon to
turn the cam a quarter of a revolution at a time by a spring ratchet hand on
one end of a lever, the other end of which lever is connected to a cord
attached to.a needle of, the jacquard. When this lever is operated by the
jacquard the cam is turned a quarter of a revolution and thus lifts the catch
lever, liberates the lever, and sets the thread puller into action, and it will
continue to act until the jacquard again turns the cam another quarter

page_text: revolntion and catches the lever of the thread puller and there holds it out of
action until the next change is indicated by the jacquard. In this kind of
weaving it is important that the reed should beat up the weft threads very
close to the sectional take-up; by combining with a sectional take-up
mechanism shuttle carriers as herein described a surface for the shuttle to run'
on is dispensed with. The weaving operation can be carried on at any
portion of the width of the cloth and suspended at other portions of the width,
and this may be done along any desired portion of the length, so that the
cloth instead of being woven flat, as ordinary cloth is woven, can be produced
with gore-like swells, which when made into corsets will fit the pro-
tuberances of the body, or answer any other purpose requiring such irregular
weaving.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said William Edward Newton in the Great Seal Patent Office on
the 3rd October 1866.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, WILLIAM
EDWARD NEWTON, of the Office for Patents, 66, Chancery Lane, in the County
of Middlesex, Civil Engineer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Third day of April, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-six, in the twenty-ninth year of
Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto
me, the said William Edward Newton, Her special licence that I, the said
'William Edward Newton, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such
others as I, the said William Edward Newton, my executors, administrators,
and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to
time and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should
and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United
Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of
Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN POWER LOOMS FOR WEAVING," being
a communication to me from abroad, upon the condition (amongst others) that
I, the said William Edward Newton, my executors or administrators, by
an instrument in writing under ny, or their, or one of their hands and
seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said
Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause
the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months
next and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.

page_text: NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said William Edward Newton, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner.the same is to
be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement, reference being had to the Drawing hereunto annexed,
and to the letters and figures marked thereon (that is to say) :-
The weaving of cloth suitable for making corsets to fit the swells and
protuberances of the body has hitherto been attended with serious difficulties.
It has been effected in hand looms, but at considerable expense on account of
the great amount and cost of labor. The required shapes are produced in
weaving by making the cloth of different lengths in different parts of the
widths. Wherever a gore-like swell is required it is produced by interweaving
the warps and weft in such parts of the width, and suspending the inter-
weaving in the other parts of the width. The suspension of the interweaving
operation in certain portions of the width and along desired portions of the
length of the cloth is effected by suspending the operation of the mail cords of
the jacquard, so that the weft thread cannot pass between the warps in the
parts so suspended, whilst it continues to be passed between the warps where
the mail cords continue to open the shed of the warps, and as the inter-
weaving is required to vary from small portions of the width to the whole
width, and sometimes to take place near one selvage and at other times
towards the opposite selvage, the shuttle thread is required to be carried
across the whole width at each operation. In weaving such like forms by
hand the cloth as woven is taken up by the weaver in the portions of the
width in which the interweaving has taken place; and when the interweaving
takes place in less than the whole width, the weaver is required at each
operation to pull by hand the surplus weft thread, or else such surplus weft
thread would be left projecting from the surface of the cloth.
The present Invention relates to machinery for performing all of these
operations automatically. The jacquard machinery is employed, as heretofore,
to determine during the progress of the weaving, and at each operation, what
portion of the width of the warp is and what portion is not to be operated.
A mechanism termed the sectional take-up motion and operated by the loom
takes up the cloth as it is woven, either along the whole or any portion of the
width; and what portions of this mechanism are to be put in action at each
operation is determined by the jacquard. Another mechanism operated
automatically by the loom pulls out to the required extent the surplus of the
shuttle thread whenever the interweaving is performed on less than the whole
width of the cloth, and whenever the interweaving is extended across the
whole width the operation of this mechanism is suspended by the jacquard.

page_text: In the accompanying Drawings Fig. 1 is a side elevation of one of the
improved looms adapted for weaving ladies' corsets; Fig. 2, a front elevation'
of the same complete; Fig. 3, a back view of the taking-up mechanism
drawn on an enlarged scale; Fig. 4 is a sectional elevation of the same;
Fig. 5 is a front view of the lay and shuttle mechanism, also drawn on an
enlarged scale; and Fig. 6 is a section of the lay and shuttle mechanism,
and shewing in side elevation the cams and connections for operating the
shuttle mechanism; Fig. 7 is a front view, and Fig. 8, a side view of the
thread puller and mechanism for operating it.
The slay à receives motion in the usual manner from cranks at each end of
the main shaft b. The slay is suspended, and has its axis of vibration above
as a matter of convenience, to afford more room below for other parts of the
mechanism. The jacquard machinery is of the usual construction, and is
represented at A; it derives motion from a crank B on the main shaft by
means of a connecting rod C in the usual manner. The warp c is divided
into equal sections, the number being determined by the judgment of the
wenver or loom timer; it may for instance be divided into twenty sections
as shewn in the Drawings, each of which is to be wound upon a separate
spool d, and all the spools are mounted on a creel or frame e at the back of
the loom. From the spools each section of the warp passes up, over, and
under rollers f, some of which are provided with tension weights 9, 9, and
All the
from thence around a warp beam h in the rear part of the frame.
warps extend from the beam h through the mails of the jacquard cords, and
then through the reed to the sectional take-up motion in front. In this way
each section of the warp can be supplied independently of the others, whilst
all are under equal tension. The take-up motion D, shewn at Figures 3
and 4, is attached to the inner face of the breast beam of the frame, and
should have as many sections as the warps, say twenty, as represented in the
Drawings. There are twenty fluted rollers j, all of equal diameter and length,
and all mounted side by side on a journal bar k secured to the ends of the
take-up frame D, so that each roller can turn thereon freely. The woven cloth /
passes over this sectional roller and out in front over the breast beam, and the
cloth is gripped on to the several sections of this roller by a series of pressure
rollers m, one for each fluted roller j. These pressure rollers are mounted in a
series of short levers n, one roller in each lever, and these levers are pressed down
to gripe the cloth by the tension of a strip of india-rubber o or a spring acting
on each separately, and capable of being modified in tension, each independent
of the other, by screws or other suitable device acting on each. The levers n
of the pressure rollers m with their several springs o are mounted in 'a

page_text: frame E, which is connected with the frame D of the take-up roller by'
journals p, so that the whole series can be lifted from the take-up rollers
to liberate the cloth if desired, or their gripping pressure may be increased-
by turning two screws.q, q, which pass through holes in the ends of a barr
of the frame E, and are tapped into the take-up frame D. Below the
sectional take-up roller there is a series of ratchet levers s, one such lever and'
ratchet or pawl for each fluted roller j; these levers all vibrate on a fulcrum
rod t mounted in the take-up frame D, and they are so situated that when
their lower arms are pushed towards the breast beam their ratchet hands or pawls
take into the flutes or ratchet teeth of the rollers ; and turn them, and thus'
cause them to take up the woven cloth. It is best to have two ratchet hands'
or pawls on each lever, and to have one slightly shorter than the other, so that
they will engage the teeth on the rollers alternately. The necessity of making
the teeth or flutes on the rollers very fine is thus avoided. It is also preferable
to use weighted instead of spring pawls. Cords u extend one from each of the
levers s, pass under roller v, and are attached to the mail cords w of the jacquard,
the cord of each lever being connected with that section of the mail cords
of the jacquard which control the corresponding section of the warps, so that'
when any of the warps of a section are operated by the jacquard the levers of
the corresponding section of the take-up motion will be drawn towards the slay
until it strikes a stop bar y¹, and as the range of motion of the mail cord of the'
jacquard is greater than the motion given to the lever the cord which is attached'
to the lever has a section of india-rubber or other substance which will yield,
and when the slay makes its forward beat to beat up the weft thread a bar x,
secured to the front face of the race beam of the slay by screws inserted
through slots so as to project forward to any desired extent, will strike the
levers and vibrate it in the opposite direction, and thus turn the fluted roller j
the required distance to take up the woven cloth in a corresponding portion of
its width. The bar a should be made adjustable to admit of varying the
amount of take-up. The jacquard merely sets the levers of the take-up, and
no portion of the power required to take up the cloth is borne by the jacquard,
but is all derived directly from the slay. It should be observed that by the
time the slay strikes the levers of the take-up motion the jacquard has made
its return motion and has liberated the cords by which the levers of the take-
up- were set.
The shuttle a¹ is operated by a pair of carriers b', 6', which slide in suitable
ways in the race beam of the slay; both carriers are alike, and each consists of
a bar fitted to slide in the ways, and having a standard at the outer end from
which.an arm c¹ extends. inward and parallel with the bar. To the arm is

page_text: connected a spring catch lever d¹ by a fulcrum pin situated at about the
middle of its length. The shuttle near its back edge is formed with a groove
in its under side extending from each end to within a short distance of the
middle, which grooves receive the arms c¹ of the carriers. The upper face of
the shuttle is also grooved to receive the inner end of the spring catch levers d
of the carriers, each of which at the proper times catches over a cross pin in
the groove to hold the shuttle on the arm. The shuttle is held on the arm c
by the catch lever d¹ of one of the carriers, and both carriers are set in
motion towards the centre of the slay, and as the two carriers approach each
other the arm and spring catch lever of the opposite carrier enters the grooves
of the shuttle and the catch lever snaps over the cross pin in the shuttle
groove and takes hold of the shuttle, and at the same time the tail end of the
catch lever of the carrier which carried the shuttle in is depressed by a pin e
to liberate the shuttle. In this way the first carrier is made to liberate the
shuttle as the second takes hold of it, and the motion of the two carriers is
then reversed to move them back to their original positions, and in doing this
the shuttle is carried entirely across the warps to the other side preparatory to
another operation in the reverse direction. To guide the shuttle from one
carrier to the other, and to prevent the arms and catch levers from catching
against any of the warp threads, there is a thin plate f¹ attached to the back
of each carrier, one of them a little further back than the other and slightly in-
clining back, so that as the carriers approach they shall lap by each other and thus
direct the shuttle and the carriers so that the arm and catch lever shall properly
enter the grooves of the shuttle; these plates are a little wider than the thickness
of the shuttle and a little longer, and pointed at the outer end so as to spread
the warp threads, and prevent the arms and catch levers and the shuttle
from catching and breaking any of the warp threads. As the catch levers of
the two carriers are to be opened alternately, in order to liberate the shuttle,
the pins e, e, for that purpose project from two short arms 9', g¹, hinged at
their upper ends to the slay, and the lower ends of both are connected by a
rod h', so that they shall vibrate together. One end of this rod is in turn
connected by a link with one arm of a rock lever i on the slay, and this rock
lever has two arms and which are alternately acted upon by two tappets
k, k, projecting from the back face of a tappet wheel that turns on a stud
pin on the slay. This wheel has four pins m¹ projecting from its front face
at equal distances apart, which are acted upon in turn by a spring catch n
hinged to one of the carriers, so as to turn the wheel a quarter of a revolution
every time the carriers approach each other in the middle of the slay. This
causes the tappets k¹ to vibrate the double lever i, j, alternately in opposite
+

page_text: lirections, and thereby place, the pins e', e', on the arms 9', 9', in the positions
equired alternately to operate the catch levers of the carriers. Above the.
appet wheel there is a lever. o' drawn down by a spring, so that its face
shall bear on two of the four pins m¹ to prevent the wheel from being turned
by shocks or jars after the catch n' has turned it a quarter of a revolution.
The carriers are both moved inwards towards the centre of the loom by cams
p¹, p¹, on the main shaft, which depresses two levers q', q³. The outer ends.
of these levers are connected by a bar r, and from the middle of this bar two
straps or cords extend up and pass in opposite directions, each over a roller s¹
mounted in hangers from the under side of the race beam. The ends of these
cords are attached to arms t¹, t¹, extending down from the carriers, and slide in
slots made for that purpose in the race beam. To these arms t¹, t¹, are
attached two other straps u', u', one to each, which pass over two other
rollers v', v, near the end. of the race beam, and extend down, and are attached
to two levers w¹, w¹, one on each side of the loom, and outside of the frame.
These levers are depressed simultaneously and at the required time by the two
cams, a¹, one on each end of the main shaft. The forms and relative
position of the two sets of cams and are represented in Fig. 6. For
the purpose of drawing out the surplus weft thread after each throw of the
shuttle, when the interweaving is performed on less than the whole width of
the cloth, there are two thread pullers a², a³, one on each side of the loom,
and so located that they shall operate near to the selvages of the cloth. As
both thread pullers and their connections are alike the description of one will
answer for both.
The thread puller consists of a finger a with the forward end curved a
little downward to prevent the thread from escaping from under it. It is
hinged to the upper end of a rod be, and is provided with a spring c², which
holds it at the required angle to pull the thread, and the spring is of such
delicate tension as to yield and liberate the thread when it has been pulled to
the requisite extent. The rod is also hinged to the end of a lever d, and
held at the required angle by the tension of a spring e. The lever turns on
a fulcrum f at the back of the loom, and is drawu upward by the tension of
a spring g, and it is depressed against the tension by a cam h³ on the main
shaft, the form of which cam is clearly represented in Fig. 8 of the Drawings.
The thread.comes out of the front edge of the shuttle a', and when the thread
puller is elevated the point of the finger is between the front edge of the shuttle
.and the reed, and it gets to that elevated position before the shuttle is brought
home, so that when it is depressed by the cam h the finger is sure to catch

page_text: the thread and pull it down until the required tension is given to it to insure
that there shall be no portion of it left loosely projecting from the surface of
the cloth when woven beyond that tension the finger will open and liberate
the thread. When the interweaving is extended entirely across the whole.
width of the warps the operation of the thread pullers must be suspended.
To this end on the side of the lever d³ there is a projecting pin , against
which a catch lever j³ catches to hold down the lever d³, and with it the
thread puller in the depressed position. The catch lever rests on the
periphery of an oval cam on an arber P, and from this arber project four
large ratchet teeth m³, which are acted upon to turn the cam a quarter of a
revolution at a time by a spring ratchet hand n³ on one end of a lever o
The other end of this lever is connected to a cord p³ attached to, a needle of
the jacquard. When this lever of is operated by the jacquard the cam k³ is
turned a quarter of a revolution, bringing it to the position represented in
Fig. 8 of the Drawings. This lifts the catch lever j³ to the position repre-
sented, and liberates the lever d² and sets the thread puller in action, and it
will continue to act until the jacquard again operates the lever oⓇ and turns
the cam another quarter revolution, which permits the catch lever to catch
the lever d of the thread puller, and there hold it out of action until the
next change is indicated by the jacquard. As before stated, there is one
thread puller on each side of the loom, both constructed alike, and having
like appendages, and each operated by a separate cam on the main shaft, and
each is provided with a separate mechanism connected with the jacquard,
and it is necessary that they should be separate, because at times one must
be out of action whilst the other is in action. The yielding of the arm a³ so
as to allow the thread to slip off and escape so soon as it is sufficiently
tightened allows the arm d to be operated uniformly, whether there is much
or little slack thread to be gathered, and avoids the necessity which might
'otherwise be experienced of giving a varying range to its motion suited to the
In this kind of
varying length of slack to be gathered in weaving gores.
weaving it is important that the reed should beat up the weft threads very
closely to the sectional take-up, and this result cannot be obtained with a fly
shuttle, for the reason that the fly shuttle must have a wide race on which
to travel in front of the reed, but by combining with a sectional take-up
mechanism shuttle carriers such as herein described a surface for the shuttle
to run on is dispensed with. The weaving operation can be carried on at any
portion of the width of the cloth, and suspended at other portions of the width,
and this may be done along any desired portion of the length, so that the cloth

page_text: instead of being woven flat, as ordinary cloth is woven, can be produced with
gore-like swells, which when made into corsets will fit the protuberances of
the body, or answer any other purpose requiring such irregular weaving.
What I claim as the Invention secured to me by Letters Patent is,
operating the sectional take-up roller by levers which are set by the jacquard
and operated to take up the woven cloth by the beat of the slay or the motion
of some equivalent part of the loom, as and for the purpose specified.
I also claim in combination with the sectional take-up roller the series of
pressure rollers and the frame in which they are hung with its connections,
so that while each can yield independently of the others the whole of them
can be lifted from the take-up roller at once, or the tension of their springs
increased, as and for the purpose specified.
I also claim the thread pullers in combination with the jacquard, and the
intermediate mechanism by which the jacquard is made to determine when
the thread pullers shall be thrown in or out of action, as and for the purpose
specified.
And I also claim connecting the finger of the thread puller by means of a
spring with the mechanism by which it is operated, so that it shall liberate
the thread so soon as it shall have been pulled with sufficient tension.
I also claim the adjustable bar on the slay, in combination with the
levers that operate the sectional take-up, and the bar which gauges the
extent to which the levers shall be pulled by the jacquard, as and for the
purpose specified.
And I also claim the shuttle carriers for operating the shuttle or the
equivalents thereof as distinguished from the fly-shuttle system, in com-
bination with the sectional take-up or the equivalent thereof, as and for the
purpose described.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Edward Newton, have here-
unto set my hand and seal, the Third day of October, in the of
year
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-six.
Witness,
J. W. MOFFATT,
66, Chancery Lane.
W. E. NEWTON. (L.B.)