IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE AND CONSTRUCTION OF STUDS FOR SHIRT-FRONTS, COLLARS, AND WRISTBANDS
Year: 1881

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Philip Frederick Allen, of 28, Great Russell St.,
Bloomsbury, in the County of Middlesex, Commercial Traveller, for an
Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE AND CONSTRUCTION OF
STUDS FOR SHIRT-FRONTS, COLLARS, AND WRISTBANDS,"
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Philip Frederick Allen at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 7th October 1881.
PHILIP FREDERICK ALLEN, of No. 28, Great Russell St., Bloomsbury, in the
County of Middlesex, Commercial Traveller. "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE
AND CONSTRUCTION OF STUDS FOR SHIRT-FRONTS, COLLARS, AND WRISTBANDS."
I make the body of my improved studs of an elastic material like vulcanized
india-rubber (instead of a hard unyielding substance like bone, ivory, mother of
pearl, or metal, such as is usually employed for the purpose in the ordinary studs,
and which generally tends from the continual friction to which it is subjected by
the constant motion of the human frame to abrade and wear away the threads of
the button-holes against which the studs are almost incessantly chafing), so that,
owing to the soft and yielding material of which the body of my studs is composed,
all the customary wear and tear of the threads in the surrounding button-holes are
duly guarded against and effectually checked, if not entirely prevented. Moreover
by forming the body of my improved studs out of some pliable and elastic material
like india-rubber (and thereby obviating the fraying of the threads forming the
button holes as well as the consequent enlargement after a time of the button-holes
themselves) there is little or no chance of my improved studs being lost like those
of the ordinary construction so frequently are.
Further, owing to the hard, unyielding, and brittle character of the material out
of which the body of the ordinary studs is generally formed, the neck or central
shaft of them is liable to be broken, while the stud itself is apt to press unpleasantly
upon the chest, throat, or wrists of the wearer, whereas by my new and improved

page_text: method of manufacture and construction all such inconveniences and imperfections
are effectually avoided, for the body of my improved studs is so pliable that no
disagreeable pressure whatever can incommode the wearer of them, while they will
tend to preserve the button-holes of the shirt front, cuffs, and collar so long as the
shirt itself may last.
Again, owing to the imperishable and yielding nature of the material of which
my improved studs are composed, they are not only more durable but cheaper than
the ordinary articles, as well as being similar in shape to the studs usually worn,
and like them also susceptible of being mounted with gold, or silver, or any other
approved material. This mounting of the top and bottom surfaces of my indin-
rubber studs with "caps" of a different material from the body may be effected in
the following manner, viz.:-By means of a suitable machine such gold and silver
or other caps are affixed to the top and base of the studs in such a manner to the
body of the articles themselves that the compression of the said caps causes a
certain proportion of the india-rubber (or other soft and elastic material forming
the body) to be squeezed out under the rims of the top and base caps, the result
being that the surplus india-rubber which thus becomes forced out by the above
mentioned compression serves to give the following peculiar properties to the body
of the studs, i.e., it not only serves to add to the strength of the studs, but also to
cause the 'india-rubber so forced out at the top and base of the articles to press
towards the middle of the neck or central shaft, so that when the studs are applied
to the button-hole in the ordinary way, the material forming the said top and base
part of them is made to close upon the fabric of the garment in such a manner as
to hold the sides of the button-holes delicately but yet firmly together, and thus to
prevent the studs themselves from being displaced or falling out by any voluntary
or involuntary movement of the wearer of them.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Lotters Patent filed by
the said Philip Frederick Allen in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
6th April 1882.
PHILIP FREDERICK ALLEN, of 28, Great Russell Street, Bloomsbury, in the
County of Middlesex, Commercial Traveller. "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANU.
FACTURE AND CONSTRUCTION OF STUDS FOR SHIRT - FRONTS, COLLARS, AND
WRISTBANDS."
My Invention relates to improvements in the manufacture and construction of
studs or fasteners for shirt-fronts, collars, and wristbands, and which may also be
employed for fastening gloves, gaiters, or any other article of clothing, so that
they may prevent the fraying of the button holes of the garment to which they
are applied.
I make the body of my improved studs or fastenors of an olastic material liko
vulcanized india-rubber (instead of a hard unyielding substance like bone, ivory,
mother of pearl, or metal, such as is usually employed for the purpose in the
ordinary studs or fasteners, and which generally tends from the continual friction
to which it is subjected by the constant motion of the human frame to abrade and
to wear away the threads of the button holes against which the studs or fasteners
are almost incessantly chafing), so that, owing to the soft and yielding material of
which the body of my studs or fasteners is composed, all the customary wear and
tear of the threads in the surrounding button holes are duly guarded against and
effectually checked, if not entirely prevented.
Moreover by forming the body of my improved studs or fastoners out of some
pliable and elastic material like india-rubber (and thereby obviating the fraying of
the threads forming the button holes, as well as the consequent enlargement after
a time of the button holes themselves), there is little or no chance of my improved
studs or fasteners being lost like those of the ordinary construction so frequently
are.
Further, owing to the hard, unbending, and brittle character of the material out
of which the body of the ordinary studs or fasteners is generally formed, the neck
or central shaft of them is liable to be broken, while the stud itself is apt to press
unpleasantly upon the chest, throat, wrists, or other part of the body of the
wearer, whereas by my new and improved method of manufacture and construction
all such inconveniences and imperfections are effectually avoided, for the body of
my improved studs or fasteners is so pliable that no disagreeable pressure whatever
can incommode the wearer of them, while they will tend to preserve the button
holes of the shirt-front, cuffs, collar, gloves, gaiters, or other garment to which
they are applied, so long as the garment itself may last.
Again, owing to the imperishable and yielding nature of the material of which
my improved studs or fasteners are composed, they are not only more durable but
cheaper than the ordinary articles, as well as being similar in shape to the studs or
fasteners usually worn, and like them also susceptible of being mounted with gold,
or silver, or any other approved material.
The mounting of the top and bottom surfaces of my elastic studs or fasteners
with caps of a different material from the body may be effected in the following
manner, viz.—
The elastic bodies are formed by the usual process known as moulding, and the
gold or silver or any other metal caps are such as can be manufactured in the
ordinary way.
In the accompanying Drawings Fig. 1 shows an elevation of the elastic body A.
Fig. 2 shows a sectional view of one form of cap B. Fig. 3, a sectional view of

page_text: .
another form of cap with its edges turned inwards. Fig. 4, a sectional view of a
third form of cap, the sides of which are provided with any suitable number of
slits. Fig. 5 is a sectional view showing the top and bottom caps B fitted loosely
in position on the elastic body A. Fig. 6 shows a sectional view of a complete
stud or fastener after the caps B have been compressed into position over the top
and base of the elastic body. The caps B are made of a sufficient capacity to
admit of the top and base of the moulded elastic body A being readily inserted
therein by hand, as shown at Fig. 5.
A suitable means for compressing the caps B over the top and base of the elastic
body of the stud or fastener consists in the employment of the clamp, shown in
Fig. 7, and the dies, shown in Fig. 8.
The two sides of the clamp have each a small semicircle C, cut out as shown,
sufficient to just close round the neck or central shaft of the elastic body A and
with the latter, which is thus firmly held, it is placed between the two dies D
and E, one of which is fixed, whilst the other is capable of being moved by screw,
lever, or other means. Each die is formed with a recess to receive the rounded
top of the caps and serve both to keep the loosely mounted stud or fastener in
position and also to preserve the caps from indentations during the compressing
process. The compression of the caps over the top and base of the clastic body is
accomplished by causing the movable die to close with the fixed die.
Having now described the nature of my Invention, and the manner of carrying
the same into effect, I wish it to be understood that I do not claim the particular
modo shown of compressing the caps over the top and base of the elastic body of
the studs or fasteners, but what I do claim is the manufacture and construction of
studs or fasteners of an elastic body with top and base caps of gold, silver, or any
other suitable metal or material, substantially as herein described and shown in
the Drawings.
In witness whereof, I, the said Philip Frederick Allen, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Sixth day of April, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and eighty-two.