IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BUTTONS AND IN APPARATUS THEREFOR
Year: 1884

page_text: I, ROBERT ELSDON; of Brockley, in the county of Kent, do hereby declare the
nature of my invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BUTTONS
AND IN APPARATUS THEREFOR," to be as follows:-
This invention relates especially to improvements in the manufacture of that
class of metal buttons known as set or closed buttons, but is also applicable to
other metal buttons, or ivory, horn, composition and other such like buttons,
mounted or otherwise.
In carrying out my invention I take a suitable length of brass or other metal
wire of round, oval, or any other suitable section plain, galvanized or tinned, and
in the centre of its length I form a more or less loop shaped bend. I then cause
the middle portion of the wire to be held more or less firmly, in a slot in a mandrel
which may be rotated at pleasure. Two stops are provided in such position that
when the said mandrel is rotated they shall cause the two ends of the wire to be
bent round the mandrel in opposite directions, in such a manner as to form a
circular wheel or frame, somewhat of the shape of the figure eight with the before-
mentioned loop shaped bend projecting at right angles to the said wheel or frame
from the centre bar thereof. In the manufacture of set or closed buttons the
bottom or back is provided with a suitably shaped hole through which the before-
mentioned loop shaped bend is passed and forms the shank of the button when
finished. The edge of the circumference of the bottom or back is then set, spun,
or closed over the circumference of the wire wheel or frame, and the crown, face,
or shell is then set, spun, or closed over the circumference of the bottom or back
which is by preference formed in such manner that, when the crown, face or shell
is set, spun or closed over as explained, the whole is flush and smooth."
In order to make a drop shank I form the shank of a separate and loose ring
which is by preference threaded onto the wire before the same is bent round to
form the wheel or frame as before described.
It will be understood that buttons constructed in accordance with my invention
are lighter and stronger than those constructed in the usual way, the labour
required is of a cheaper class, the material may be thinner, soldering or rivetting
of the shank is dispensed with and the shank is more securely attached to the
button.
1001

page_text: I, ROBERT ELSDON, of Brockley, in the County of Kent do hereby declare the
nature of the said invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF
BUTTONS AND IN APPARATUS THEREFOR" and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement reference being had to the accompanying sheet of drawings (the Figures
of which, for the sake of clearness are shewn double full size) and to the letters
and figures marked thereon that is to say :-
This invention relates especially to improvements in the manufacture of that
class of metal buttons known as set, spun or closed buttons, but is also applicable
to other metal buttons, such for example, as bar or two hole buttons, imitation
solid flat and livery buttons, and the like.
In carrying out my invention I take a suitable length of brass, iron, steel or
other metal wire A (see Figure 1) of round, oval, or any other suitable section,
plain, galvanized, coppered, brassed or tinned, and, in the case of loop shanked
buttons, I form in the centre of its length, by means of a press or otherwise, a
more or less loop shaped bend A'. I then cause the middle portion of the wire A
to be held more or less firmly, and the two ends A³ and A³ to be bent round in
opposite directions in such a manner as to form a circular wheel or frame, somewhat
of the shape of the numeral 8, with or without the beforementioned loop shaped
bend A projecting at right angles to the said wheel or frame from the centre bar
thereof. Figure 2 illustrates a simple method of and apparatus for accomplishing
this part of my invention. B is a mandrel having a slot formed diametrically
across the same, and in some cases a further recess in the centre thereof, into which
slot the beforementioned wire A is placed with or without the loop shaped bend A¹
projecting into the said central recess as shown. C C₁ are two, horns or lugs
projecting downwards from the stem D one on each side of the wire A, but on
opposite sides of the stem D and mandrel B. It will now be understood that if
the stem D with its horns or lugs C C¹ are caused to make a half revolution in the
direction of the arrow, and the mandrel be held stationary, the horn or lug C will
bend the end A% of the wire round one half of the circumference of the mandrel B,
and the horn or lug C¹ will bend the end A³ of the wire round the other half
circumference, and the wire will then be shaped as shown in Figure 3. In the
manufacture of set, spun or closed buttons (see Figures 4 and 5) imitation solid
buttons, and the like, the bottom or back E is provided with a suitably shaped
hole E¹ through which the loop shaped bend A¹ is passed and forms the shank of
the button when finished. The edge of the circumference of the bottom or back E
is then set, spun or closed over the circumference of the wire wheel or frame A,
and the crown, face or shell F is then set, spun, or closed over the circumference of
the bottom or back E, which is by preference formed in such manner that when
the crown, face or shell F is set, spun, or closed over as explained, the whole is
flush and smooth. In Figure 4 the loop shaped bend A¹ is shewn as forming the
shank itself, but Figure 5 shews a drop-shank" button, in which the shank
consists of a loose ring G threaded on to the loop-shaped bend A¹ and arranged to
fall back into the interior of the button. Figure 5 also shews the centre bar shaped
"

page_text: to the curve or section of the crown, face, or shell F, thus ensuring greater strength
to the button.
Figure 6 represents a trouser, bar, or two-hole button constructed in accordance
with this Invention. In manufacturing this class of button the circular portion of
the wheel or frame, constructed as herein before described, but of a diameter smaller
than the finished button, is subjected to pressure between suitable dies or otherwise,
and that portion of the wire frame is thus spread or flattened to the shape of the
finished button, as shewn in Figure 6, while the centre bar remains, more or less,
of its original section, but becomes, during this process of stamping, slightly curved
lengthwise, so that in manufacturing this class of button I find it unnecessary, in
some cases, to form the loop-shaped bend in the manner first hereinbefore described.
The circular portions of buttons thus formed may be covered at the back or front,
or both, with thin metal for carrying a name or other device if required, or the
name or device may be stamped in the metal of the button itself and preferably at
the same time that it is subjected to pressure as before described.
In order to ensure a neat and close joint between the ends A and A³ of the wire
and the ends of the bar (see Figures 3 and 6) the said ends A' and A' may if
desired be bevilled, grooved or undercut.
Figure 7 represents a button constructed as last described but with a face or
shell F (which may be closed or open for the insertion of a fancy material or design)
set, spun, or closed over the circumference of the frame, which in this case also
serves as the bottom or back, and may be stamped with a name or other device.
In order to provide for the spreading or flattening of the circular part of the wire
frame as above described, and at the same time to maintain a lighter section of wire
for the bar or shank, I sometimes employ lengths of wire rolled or otherwise
formed as shown in Figure 8, A' being the part intended to form the bar or shank
and A' and A³ being the parts intended to form the circular portion of the frame
or button and which it is intended to subject to pressure and flatten or spread out
as hereinbefore described.
Set, closed or spun buttons constructed in accordance with my invention can be
made lighter as regards the fronts and backs, and (with the exception of the
imitation solid buttons) stronger than those constructed in the usual way, the
material may be thinner, soldering or rivetting of the shank is dispensed with, and
the part forming the shank being solid with the wheel or frame is more securely
attached. It will also be seen that the backs and frames of set, closed or spun
buttons constructed in accordance with this invention are so arranged as to admit
of the ready removal of the fronts, crowns or faces for renewal when required.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is :-
"
First The new or improved means of manufacturing buttons or button frames
by bending lengths of ordinary or specially prepared metal wire into
circular forms having bars, with or without loop shaped bends in the centres
thereof, diametrically across the said circular forms, which bars, with or
without their loop shaped bends, serve either as solid shanks themselves, as
loops for "drop shanks," or as bars for the sewing-on thread, and the
circular parts of such forms serving as blanks from which the circular parts
of the buttons are formed by pressure, or as frames for set or closed or
ornamental buttons, substantially as herein before described, and illustrated
in Figures 1 to 8 of the drawings hereto annexed.
Second-In the manufacture of buttons having crowns, faces or shells of thin
material the employment of the wheels or frames forming the subject of
the first claim for the purpose of strengthening such crowns, faces, or shells
as herein before described and illustrated in Figures 4, 5 and 7 of the
drawings hereto annexed.

page_text: Third For the manufacture of buttons forming the subject of the first claim,
the employment of apparatus for bending the wire forms constructed,
arranged, and operating as hereinbefore described and illustrated in Figure 2
of the Drawings hereto annexed.