IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MODE OF MANUFACTURING CLOTHS OR MATERIALS FOR TROWSERINGS
Year: 1859

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to James Cocks, of No. 25, Cornhill, in the City of
London, Tailor, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MODE OF
MANUFACTURING CLOTHS OR MATERIALS FOR TROWSERINGS."
Sealed the 7th February 1860, and dated the 1st December 1859.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said James Cocks at the Office
of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 1st December
1859.
I, JAMES COCKS, of No. 25, Cornhill, in the City of London, Tailor, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MODE
OF MANUFACTURING CLOTHS OR MATERIALS FOR TROWSERINGS," to be as follows:-
My Invention has for its object the manufacture of the cloth or material so
as to admit of its being cut and made up into trowsers without the necessity of
an outer side seam, thereby avoiding the inconveniences attending the present
modes of cutting and making up when a border or broad stripe or pattern is
introduced into the fabric; and my Invention, with this object in view, consists
in merely changing the position of the border or broad stripe or pattern from
the side or sides of the piece to the centre, or thereabouts. The fabric is thus
manufactured with the border or broad stripe midway, or nearly so, between
the two sides of the piece. In this manner every pattern, either with or with-
out a border, will be made to originate from or terminate in the centre. By
this means the present interference with the pattern by the necessity of an
outer side seam is obviated, and also the waste in all dressed goods, on which

page_text: the border or broad stripe or pattern has to be formed at each side of the piece,
especially when the material has to be made up without a border or broad
stripe. The manufacture of the material is the same as usual, except that the
mechanism employed therein is arranged so as to secure the placing of the
border or broad stripe or pattern in the centre of the piece, or diverging there-
from, or converging thereto.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said James Cocks in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
31st May 1860.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JAMES
'COCKS, of No. 25, Cornhill, in the City of London, Tailor, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the First day of December, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-nine, in the twenty-third year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the
said James Cocks, Her special license that I, the said James Cocks, my
executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said James
'Cocks, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during
the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise,
and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the
Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE
MODE OF MANUFACTURING CLOTHS OR MATERIALS FOR TROWSERINGS," upon the
condition (amongst others) that I, the said James Cocks, by an instrument in
writing under my hand and seal, should particularly describe and ascertain the
nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be per-
formed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within
six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters
Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said James Cocks, do hereby declare the
nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement (that is to say) :-
My Invention of "Improvements in the Mode of manufacturing Cloths or
Materials for Trowserings," has for its object the manufacture of the cloth or
material so as to admit of its being cut and made up into trowsers without

page_text: the necessity for an outer side seam, thereby avoiding the inconveniences
attending the present modes of cutting and making up when a border or
borders or broad stripe or pattern is introduced into the fabric; and my In-
vention with this object in view consists in merely changing the position of the
border or borders or broad stripe or pattern from the side or sides of the piece
to the centre, or thereabouts. The fabric is thus manufactured with the border or
borders or broad stripe midway, or nearly so, between the two sides of the piece.
In this manner every pattern, either with or without a border or borders, will
be made to originate from or terminate in or near the centre. By this means
the present interference with the pattern by the necessity of having an outer
side seam is obviated, and also the waste in all dressed goods, on which the
border or broad stripe or pattern has to be formed at each side of the piece,
especially when the material bas to be made up without a border or broad stripe.
The manufacture of the material is the same as usual, except that the mecha-
nism employed therein is arranged so as to secure the placing of the border or
broad stripe or pattern in or near the centre of the piece, or diverging there-
from or converging thereto.
Having thus stated the nature of the said Invention, I will proceed to
describe more particularly in what manner the same is to be performed.
The ordinary mode of manufacturing materials for trowserings with patterns
on them has been to weave them according to designs of patterns originating
from and terminating in the sides of the piece; also, the pieces have been
ordinarily woven in widths varying from twenty-seven to thirty-two inches,
and known by the name of "three-quarter goods," the greater width being
generally preferred, especially when a border has been made at one or
both sides of the material, more particularly in the case of dressed goods. This
mode of manufacturing the said goods has been found to cause waste of
material in cutting out, and also defective patterns where the two sides were
brought together. But these disadvantages are obviated by manufacturing
the materials called "three-quarter goods" with the border or borders in the
centre instead of at one or both sides of the fabric or piece, or with the pattern
originating from or terminating in the centre instead of at the sides thereof.
By this mode of manufacture the tailor is enabled to dispense with the ordinary
outer side seam in trowsers, the defect in the pattern being also obviated
by its being formed completely in the original weaving, instead of being com-
pleted by the two portions of it being brought together and united in the
trowser. Also the material is economized by its not being required to be
woven of so great width, and by all the central portion thereof being usefully
employed, and the waste confined to the outside portions.

page_text: Although, however, the above advantages result from manufacturing
three-quarter goods," or goods of the single width, in the manner described,
yet I prefer to manufacture the materials of double width, making them six-
quarter goods, the border or borders or pattern still occupying the same relative
position to a single width. In this mode of manufacture the fabric would
contain two borders or originations, or terminations of the pattern, each occu-
pying a position in the centre of a single width. By this means besides
economy of material and the other advantages mentioned above being pro-
duced, the liability in the case of dressed goods without patterns of making
the nap go in opposite directions in the two legs of the trowser is obviated.
I have not found it necessary to describe the mechanism to be employed in
the said manufacture, because the change proposed by me does not involve
any alteration therein, except such as is required for a change of design in the
pattern intended to be woven, and this is already well understood by weavers.
Having thus described the nature of the said Invention and in what manner
the same is to be performed, I do hereby declare that what I claim as of my
Invention is, the manufacture of cloths or materials for trowserings, with the
border or borders, or broad stripe or pattern, in the centre or thereabouts of
the single width of fabric instead of at the side or sides thereof, so as to admit
of the cutting of the material for trowsers without side seams as described.
In witness whereof, I, the said James Cocks, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, the Thirty-first day of May, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty.
Witness,
WILLIAM SPENCE,
50, Chancery Lane,
Patent Agent.
JAMES COCKS. (L.S.)