Improved Process of Producing Fabrics in Imitation of Fabrics Woven in Colours.
Year: 1897

page_text: PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improved Process of Producing Fabrics in Imitation of Fabrics
Woven in Colours.
I, PAUL DOSNE, of Aglié, Italy, Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of this
invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to a process (1) for producing on the warp of a fabric
reactions which produce an insoluble colouring matter, one of the constituents of this
colour to be produced being incorporated with warp in sizing, or applied to it without
any thickening material by an operation like that of sizing, whilst the other con-
stituent is given after the weaving in the form of a dyeing or colour printing liquid.
(2) The invention also relates to impregnating the warp by like means with a
substance which has reserving properties under a colour to be afterwards printed on
the finished fabric.
The insoluble azo colours obtained by the reaction on textile fibres of a diazo com-
pound with alkaline compounds of phenols or with certain amines in acid solution, are
very difficult to obtain on yarns in skeins or bobbins; on the other hand, if one of
their constituents be applied to warps during their sizing, the final development of
the colour is extremely easy and uniform.
As the reaction is instantaneous, the operation of development on the warp of the
fabric can be followed immediately by the dyeing of the weft which is not prepared,
both operations being continuously effected on one machine, the fabric first passing
freely over a padding machine containing the developing liquid, then over rollers in a
vessel containing a solution of substantive colours at the desired temperature, there
being a suitable rinsing between the two operations.
This new technical effect, which no longer consists in fixing metallic salts on
the fibre with all the precautions necessary to render them capable of undergoing the
slow and delicate operations of progressive dyeing, but consists in impregnating the
warp with one of the constituents of a colour which, after the weaving, will be instan-
taneously developed by simple contact reaction, allows besides an extremely rapid
manufacture, excellent adaptation to unbleached fibres and a great variety of tints.
Several examples are as follow:-
(1.) The warp is prepared with a or ẞ naphtholate of soda, it is woven with a weft
not prepared, and the colour is developed by diazotised paranitraniline or diazotised
a or ẞ naphthylamine to produce red, in diazotised dianisidine to produce blue, in
diazotised tolidine to produce puce &c., all followed or not with dyeing with
substantive colours to colour the weft.
(2) The same warp, prepared with a or ẞ naphthol, is printed with a diazo com-
pound such as that of benzidine or a diazo mordant (for instance potassium sulphite),
developed in another diazo body, and dyed or not with substantive colours.
(3.) The warp is prepared with a suitable solution of a stable diazo body such as
azophore red or blue, and printed or padded with a or ẞ naphthol, resorcine, amido-
naphthol, metaphenylene diamine, &c.
(4.) The warp is prepared with acetate of soda and printed with aniline black.

page_text: Finally it is to be observed that the warp may consist of yarns prepared in several
different ways, and may be then padded in a developing medium or printed with
several colours with one or several suitable developers.
L
11007
ABEL & IMRAY,
Agents for the Applicant.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improved Process of Producing Fabrics in Imitation of Fabrics
Woven in Colours.
I, PAUL DOSNE, of Aglié, Italy, Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of this.
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This invention relates to a process. (1) for producing on the warp of a fabric reactions
which produce an insoluble colouring matter, one of the constituents of this colour
to be produced being incorporated with warp in sizing, or applied to it without any
thickening material by an operation like that of sizing, whilst the other constituent
is given after the weaving in the form of a dyeing or colour printing liquid. (2). The
invention also relates to impregnating the warp by like means with a substance which
has resisting properties to a colour to be afterwards printed on the finished fabric..
The insoluble azo-colours obtained by the reaction on textile fibres of a diazo-
compound with alkaline compounds of phenols or with certain amines in acid solution,
are very difficult to obtain on yarns in skeins or bobbins; on the other hand, if one
of their constituents be applied to warps during their sizing, the final development of
the colour is extremely easy and uniform.
As the reaction is instantaneous, the operation of development on the warp of the
fabric can be followed immediately by the dyeing of the weft which is not prepared,
both operations being continuously effected on one machine, the fabric first passing
freely over a padding machine containing the developing liquid, then over rollers in
a vessel containing a solution of substantive colours at the desired temperature, there
being a suitable rinsing between the two operations.
This new technical effect, which no longer consists in fixing metallic salts on the
fibre with all the precautions necessary to render then capable of undergoing the slow
and delicate operations of progressive dyeing, but consists in impregnating the warp
with one of the constituents of a colour which, after the weaving, will be instan-
taneously developed by simple contact reaction, allows besides an extremely. rapid
manufacture, excellent adaptation to unbleached fibres and a great variety of tints.
Several examples are as follows :—
1. The warp is prepared with a- or B-naphtholate of soda, it is woven with a weft
not prepared, and the colour developed by diazotised paranitraniline or diazotised
a- or ẞ-naphthylamine to produce red, in diazotised dianisidine to produce blue, in
diazotised tolidine to produce puce &c., all followed or not with dyeing, with sub-
stantive colours to colour the weft.
2. The fabric having the warp, prepared with a- or B-naphthol, is after weaving
printed with a diazo-compound such as that of benzidine or a discharge for diazo
colours (for instance potassium sulphite), developed in another diazo-body, and dyed
or not with substantive colours.
3. The warp is prepared with suitable solution of a diazo-body such as azophore
red or blue, and after weaving is printed or padded with a- or ẞ-naphthol, resorcine
amidonaphthol, metaphenylene diamine &c.

page_text: 4. The warp is prepared with acetate of soda and after weaving is printed with
aniline black."
Finally it is to be observed that the warp may consist of yarns prepared in several
different ways, and may then after weaving be padded in a developing medium or
printed with several colours with one or several suitable developers.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of this invention and
in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I claim is :-
1. Process for imitating on textures of vegetable fibres fabrics woven in colours,
consisting in preparing the warp during sizing (or by a similar operation if the fabric
is not to be sized) with one of the constituents of an insoluble colouring matter, which,
after weaving, is fixed by development or precipitation either by padding or printing
with the other constituent substantially as described.
2. Process for imitating, on textures of vegetable fibres, fabrics woven in colours
consisting in preparing the warp during sizing (or by a similar operation if the fabric
is not to be sized) with a substance such as acetate of soda which is capable of resist-
ing a colour to be afterwards printed on the woven fabric, substantially as described.
Dated thin 7th don of Tenu 1000
ABEL & IMRAY,
Agents for the Applicant.