Improvements in the Manufacture of Figured Cloth, applicable for Quilts and Toilet Covers.
Year: 1892

page_text: Date of Application, 14th Mar., 1892
Complete Specification Left, 27th Sept., 1892-Accepted, 5th Nov., 1892
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Figured Cloth, applicable for
Quilts and Toilet Covers.
We THE ECCLES INDUSTRIAL MANUFACTURING SOCIETY LIMITED of
Eccles in the County of Lancaster Manufacturers, and HENRY DAWSON of the
same place Overlooker, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as
follows:-
"
In manufacturing our improved figured cloth which is applicable for white or
colored quilts or toilet covers we employ a loom of the ordinary construction,
with two yarn beams, one beam for the yarn which is called the "stitching_yarn
and is controlled by means of "Jacquard" machines and "cumber-boards" for
controlling the figure and the ground; and the other beam for the "face yarn
which is worked by healds and weaves what we call a "wadded" figure, on a
broken calico ground.
"
We work both the machine lift and tappet preferably "eight to the round" but
as a modification sometimes "six" or "four to the round." We also employ two
coarse picks and two fine picks of weft alternately, making four picks to each card,
and we can weave the cloth with either one, two, or three shuttles as required, and
by preference we use the same number of "stitching ends" as there are of "face
ends," but we may use more or less of the stitching or of the face yarn in
proportion if required.
The following is the order of working the weft and warp :-
First pick. First and second machines up on the first and second pressers, with
first heald down and second heald up. This is a coarse pick..
Second pick. First and second machines up on the first and second pressers,
with first heald up and second heald down. Also a coarse pick.
Third pick. First machine down on the first presser and second machine up on
the second presser, with both healds up. This is a fine pick.
Fourth pick. First and second machines down on the first and second pressers,
and second presser up, and both healds up. Also a fine pick.
Fifth pick. First and second machines up on the first and second pressers, with
first heald down and second heald up. A coarse pick (as first).
Sixth pick. First and second machines up on the first and second pressers, with
first heald up and second heald down. A coarse pick (as second).
Seventh pick. Second machine down on the second presser, and first machine up
on the first presser, with both healds up. A fine pick.
Eighth pick. First and second machines down on first and second pressers, and
first presser up, with both healds up. This is also a fine pick.
It will be seen that the "stitching yarn" is only stitched once every seven and
eight picks in the ground, one half of the yarn is stitched in the third and fourth
picks, and the next half is stitched in every seventh and eighth picks, the yarn
that is stitched in the third and fourth picks floats onto the eleventh and twelfth
picks, and the yarn that is stitched in the seventh and eighth picks floats onto the
fifteenth and sixteenth picks and so on, thus showing that the Jacquard yarn is
only stitched in every seventh and eighth picks.
There are two fine picks together in one shed in the ground, the third and seventh
picks are what we call "wadding picks," and there is only one half of the Jacquard
yarn up in the said picks. The fourth pick also goes in the same shed as the third
pick in the ground, and the eighth pick goes in the same shed as the seventh. The
fourth and eighth picks are pressing picks" with the machines down, and these
two picks weave "calico" underneath the figure.
"

page_text: 66
:
The "face yarn
"work thus the first pick "tabby
" and the second pick
reverse tabby; "the third and fourth picks are with both healds raised, and these
operations being continued in order will produce our improved cloth.
We can also weave our improved cloth by slight modifications of the above
arrangement by working "six to the round" or "four to the round" in which
case we can either work with a Jacquard machine and "cumber-board" with healds
as above, or by using two machines and cumber boards without healds; in the
latter case we are able to use more colors in the weft.
66
These modifications would produce similar cloth to that woven eight to the
round" as above described.
Dated this 12th day of March 1892.
GEO. DAVIES & SON;
4, St. Ann's Square, Manchester, Agents for the Applicants.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Figured Cloth, applicable for
Quilts and Toilet Covers.
We THE ECCLES INDUSTRIAL MANUFACTURING SOCIETY LIMITED of
Eccles in the County of Lancaster Manufacturers and HENRY DAWSON of the
same place, Overlooker, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement :-
"9
In manufacturing our improved figured cloth which is chiefly applicable for
white or colored quilts or toilet covers we employ a loom of the ordinary construction,
with two yarn beams, one beam for the yarn which is called the "stitching_yarn
and is controlled by means of "Jacquard "machines and "cumber-boards" for
controlling. the figure and the ground, and the other beam for the "face yarn
which is worked by healds and weaves what we call a
"wadded " figure on a
broken calico ground.
"
"
We work both the machine lift and tappet preferably "eight to the round" but
as a modification sometimes ** six or "four to the round" as hereinafter described.
We also employ two coarse picks and two fine picks of weft alternately, making
four picks to each card, and we can weave the cloth with either one, two, or three
shuttles as required, and by preference we use the same number of "stitching
ends as there are of "face ends," but we may use more or less of the stitching
or of the face yarn in proportion if required.
The following is the order of working the weft and warp (see Diagram No. 1
hereunto annexed)
First pick. First and second machines up on the first and second pressers, with'
first heald down and second heald up. This is a coarse pick.
Second pick. First and second machines up on the first and second pressers, with
first heald up and second heald down. Also a coarse pick.
Third pick. First machine down on the first presser and second machine up on
the second presser with both healds up. This is a fine pick.
Fourth pick. First and second machines down on the first and second pressers,
and second presser up, and both healds up. Also a fine pick.
Fifth pick. First and second machines up on the first and second pressers, with
irst heald down. and second heald up. A coarse pick (as first).
Sixth pick. First and second machines up on the first and second pressers, with
first heald up and second heald down. A coarse pick (as second).
Seventh pick. Second machine down on the second presser, and first machine
up on the first presser, with both healds up. A. fine pick.
Eighth pick. First and second machines down on first and second pressers, and
first presser up, with both healds up. This is also a fine pick.
It will be seen that the "stitching yarn" is only stitched in once every seven

page_text: and eight picks in the ground, one half of the yarn is stitched in the third and
fourth picks, and the next half is stitched in every seventh and eighth picks, the
yarn that is stitched in the third and fourth picks floats onto the eleventh and
twelfth picks, and the yarn that is stitched in the seventh and eighth picks floats,
onto the fifteenth and sixteenth picks and so on, thus showing that the Jacquard
yarn is only stitched in every seventh and eighth picks.
There are two fine picks together in one shed in the ground, the third and seventh
picks are what we call "wadding picks," and there is only one half of the Jacquard
yarn up in the said picks, the fourth pick also goes in the same shed as the third
pick in the ground, and the eighth pick goes in the same shed as the seventh. The
fourth and eighth picks are "pressing picks" with the machines down, and these
two picks weave "calico" underneath the figure.
The "face yarn" works thus: the first pick "tabby" and the second pick
reverse tabby," the third and fourth picks are with both healds raised, and these
operations being continued in order will produce our improved cloth.
We can also weave the cloth and give the same effect weaving it three picks to
one card, and six to the round, (see Diagram No. 2). This we weave with
Jacquard machines and cumber boards and healds, we weave it two coarse and one
fine pick and we put the two coarse picks in when the machine is up, and the
healds work one and one in the said picks. The third pick is a fine pick this goes
in when the machine is down, and both healds up, and the first presser up, this
also weaves the same kind of figure and the same kind of ground as the first
modification.
We can also weave our improved cloth: (see Diagram No. 3) with two coarse
picks and two fine picks but instead of having one presser pick in the card we
put two, working it this way we weave four picks to one card as in the first
modification.
We put the first coarse pick in when the machine is up and first heald down and
second heald up.
The second pick with the machine up and first heald up and second heald down.
This is a coarse pick.
The third pick is a fine pick with the machine down and first and second healds
up and first presser up, and second presser down.
The fourth pick is a fine pick with the machine down and first and second healds
up and second presser up, and first presser down. This way we can weave a finer
ground if required. This will weave the same kind of figure on the face but not
what we call a wadded figure.
We can also weave our improved cloth one fine and one coarse pick two picks to
one card and this is worked "pick and pick" (see Diagram No. 4).
The first coarse pick is put in when the machine is up, and first heald up, and
second healds down.
Second pick is a fine pick, this is put in when the machine is down and first and
second healds up.
Third pick (coarse) is reverse tabby to the first pick in the healds.
Fourth pick (fine) is reverse in the cumber boards or pressers from the
second pick.
We can work this four to the round this also weaves the same kind of figure as
the first modification.
We would remark in conclusion that the broken calico ground varies slightly in
appearance in the different modifications hereinbefore described.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what we
claim is :-
1. The manufacture of figured cloth of the kind hereinbefore described with a
wadded figure and a broken ground by dividing the stitching yarn and stitching in
only one half of the said yarn at a time floating this half entirely over the nicks

page_text: of weft which stitch in the remaining half of the said yarn, substantially as herein-
before described and illustrated by the annexed diagrams.
• 2. The various modifications or methods of weaving for producing a wadded
figure on a broken ground as herein-described and illustrated by the annexed
diagrams.
Dated this 26th day of September 1892.
GEO. DAVIES & SON,
4, St. Ann's Square, Manchester, Agents for the Applicants.