Improvements in Woven Wire Pads for Personal Wear.
Year: 1899

page_text: Date of Application, 30th May, 1899- Accepted, 22nd July, 1899
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Woven Wire Pads for Personal Wear.
I, AUGUST HERMANN BRINKMANN, of 109, Hanover Street, in the City of
Baltimore, State of Maryland, United States of America, Manufacturer, do hereby
declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:
This invention relates to an improvement in making convex woven wire pads
for personal wear, such as bustles, and other articles worn by women.
In the drawing herewith,
Figure 1, is a side view in perspective of one of the convex pads as used in
a bustle.
Figure 2. is a view of the blank cloth or muslin facing or stretcher.
Figure 3, shows two views of the flat woven wire blank which is subsequently
convexed when attached to the cloth or muslin facing.
Figure 4, shows the cloth facing in position on the woven wire blank which
latter of larger area than the said facing and illustrates the skewed position
the woven wire blank assumes in the first stage of the operation of stitching
the two parts together, and when the first portions only are stitched.
Figure 5, shows the face or inner side of the pad-the stitching of the two
parts being completed, and shows the binding partly attached.
Figure 6, is a horizontal cross-section of the pad on the line 6-6 of Figure 5.
It is to be understood that the particular shape, outline or design of the
pad is immaterial.
Referring to the drawing the letter, a, designates a cloth or muslin facing
which in the finished pad is to worn next to the person. This facing has one
straight edge, b, and a curved or part-circular outline edge, c.
The woven
wire, F, should be made, preferably, of fine wire so as to be flexible in the
blank this wire has a straight edge b¹, of the same dimension or length as the
corresponding edge of the facing. The woven wire blank is larger or has a
greater area than the facing, but its part-circular outline somewhat approxi-
mates in shape that of the facing.
Now the desideratum is to so make the pad that a convex form shall be
imparted to the woven wire without previously "shaping" the latter, whereby
when shaped or convexed the woven wire of the pad will be under tension and
elastic.
In making the pad to accomplish the above end, the proceedure is as follows:
The cloth facing, a, is placed over the larger flat woven wire blank, and by a
sewing machine a row of stitching, d, is first run across the straight edges, b, b1,
of the two parts to join them, then at the corner or angle, e, (while the needle
is through the two parts) the operator with one hand holds the cloth from moving
while with one or more fingers of the other hand the woven wire is forced laterally
or skewed to one side, as shown in Figure 4. this action brings the correspond-
ing edges, g, of the cloth and, gl of the larger woven wire into coincident position
and then the stitching is continued at. d, along said coincident edges. As the

page_text: parts, while being sewed, are gradually shifted by the feed mechanism of the
sewing machine, the operator will continue to hold the cloth taut and at the
same time crowd or press the woven wire so as to force its projecting skewed
edge, h, toward the stitching, d', at the opposite edge and becomes coincident
with the corresponding edge, h, of the smaller sized cloth facing at the point
where the needle is passing up and down through the two parts. When the
stitching has been finished along the edge, h, h¹, of the parts, the cloth facing, a,
will be stretched straight as in Figure 6, and the woven wire will have assuined
a convex or bulging form, F, relative to said facing.
When made thus the product is a woven wire convex pad or form whose part
circular outline has been gathered or fulled-up and is under tension and pro-
ducing a convex or bulge that is elastic, and which is held to its shape by the
cloth stretcher. This makes a pad or form possessing properties that are more
desirable than one in which there is no tension and no elasticity produced by
gathering of the outline edge, and whose shape has been obtained merely by
compressing or forming to a permanent or fixed convex shape before sewing to a
facing. A binding, i, of tape is secured around the edge of the pad.
In a bustle the straight edge, b, of the pad is secured to the body of the
wearer by a waistband, j.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is
A woven wire pad for bustles and other articles of personal wear consisting
of a cloth facing stretched and lying in a plane and forming one face of the
pad, and a woven wire bulging form lying on one side of said cloth facing and
forming the opposite face of the pad and having its entire outline or border edge
secured to said cloth facing the meshes of said wire bulging form contracted
only on the border edge where secured, as set forth.
Dated this 6th day of May 1899.