IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS OR SHOES AND IN APPARATUS THEREFOR "
Year: 1883

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Alfred Hanniball, of Dudley Place Paddington Green, in
the County of Middlesex for an Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE
MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS OR SHOES AND IN APPARATUS THEREFOR
"
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Alfred Hanniball at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 10th September 1883.
ALFRED HANNIBALL, of Dudley Place, Paddington Green, in the County of
Middlesex, "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS OR SHOES AND IN
APPARATUS THEREFOR
"3
My invention relates to the manufacture of boots and shoes, and is designed
to provide various improvements, hereinafter described, whereby, amongst other
advantages, a boot or shoe may be so made that it will be more pliable and will
yield or give more readily to the natural movements of the foot of the wearer than
is possible when the ordinary methods of manufacture are employed, thus ensuring
a greater degree of comfort than has heretofore been practicable.
My said invention comprises an improved method of uniting certain parts of the
boot or shoe in the -manufacture thereof, and improved apparatus for use in such
manufacture,
Hand-sewn boots or shoes as now made, whether pumps or double soles, possess
many disadvantages; the former usually give way in the sewing before the boot
is half worn out, and the latter are generally very insecure, the welt giving way
and permitting the wet to enter, and above all, the edge of the inner sole very
frequently curls up and tortures the wearer, where it is bevelled off; moreover the
wooden pegs that are driven through the innersole make them frequently very
uncomfortable to the wearer.
Rivetted boots are so thoroughly objectionable on account of their unyielding
stiffness, and general discomfort to the wearer that they are seldom made, excepting
in the very common classes of work.
Machine sewn boots, as now made, are objected to because the wax thread draws
and irritates the foot; and the number of nails employed make them very stiff and
unyielding to the foot; moreover as the boot continues to be worn the leather

page_text: "
sinks under the continued pressure of the foot and the nails gradually rise. Then
again their stiffness causes them to get over at the side and frequently become
useless before they are half worn out.
Every one of the foregoing objections is thoroughly obviated by my invention.
Boots or shoes made according thereto will not admit the wet or damp as others
do, and they can be worn with greater security and comfort than those previously
made, and are far more durable.
In carrying the said invention into practice I entirely dispense with the use of
nails or pegs for securing the inner sole to the upper, excepting at the rear or heel
portion. It is well known that the usual method of uniting these parts in the
process of manufacture is to fold the edges of the lower portion of the upper over
the lower face of the inner sole and to unite them by pegs or small nails called
tingles" the points of which protrude. This method although universally adopted
has several important disadvantages, one of which is that as the boot is worn,
some of these nails or pegs very frequently become loose and their ends project
above the upper surface of the inner sole and the wearer is subjected to much
annoyance and pain by reason of these ends pressing into his foot. To obviate the
disadvantages arising from the use of nails or pegs, and to prevent the existence of
rucks or folds in the lining of the boot I proceed as follows, that is to say, I take
the upper, with the lining partially attached thereto, and draw the edges of the
said lining over the lower face of the inner sole and I then securely cement or
paste this portion of the said lining to the said inner sole. I then turn back the
leather upper in such a manner that it leaves the lining exposed excepting at the
upper portion where it is secured to the lining, and I insert the heel-stiffener in the
proper position so that it will be between the lining and the upper. The upper is
then drawn down over the lining and its edges are folded over the inner sole and
united to the same over the lining, by means of paste or cement. The cemented or
pasted portion is then pressed all around by means of a special implement
hereinafter described and forming part of my present invention. A few tacks or
nails are driven into and through the folded-over portion of the upper and lining,
and into the last hereinafter described merely for the purpose of retaining the
upper and the lining in the proper position until the cement or paste has become
set, whereupon they are removed and form no part of the manufactured boot or
shoe. As the folded over portion of the upper does not entirely cover the bottom
of the inner sole a space or recess is consequently left which I fill up with cork or
other suitable material before applying the middle or outer sole. With regard to
the heel-portion I propose ordinarily to use brads, rivets, or pegs as heretofore, as
there would be no special advantage in dispensing with them. It is, however, to
be understood that I may dispense with them in special cases, if found desirable.
My method of uniting the parts as above described obviously necessitates the
employment of a last into which the tacks or nails for temporarily retaining the
upper and lining in place upon the inner sole until the cement or paste shall have
become set or dry enough to hold the said parts, and for this purpose I may use a
wooden last instead of an iron one but I prefer to employ an iron last which I
construct in the following manner that is to say, I form a recess or cavity in the
sole portion thereof which extends from the toe, to a point at, or near, the front of
the heel so that the heel portion is left solid or without a recess.
The said recess
extends entirely across the width of the sole excopting for a small part thereof, say
about a quarter of an inch, which is left around the edges. The depth of this
cavity may be about a quarter of an inch and is filled up with leather or any other
material suitable for holding the points of the tacks or pegs used as heretofore
indicated for temporarily retaining the lining and upper. When a wood last is
used the stand for the same is provided with a double prong or forked top. A cup
or shield is provided which is placed on the top of the last. There are two drilled
holes through the said cup, which holes communicate with two corresponding holes
in the last and the prongs of the stand are inserted within the said cup or shield
and into the last itself to secure the boot whilst it is being made.

page_text: Another improvement comprised within my invention consists in the employment
of two thin inner soles instead of one thick one as has heretofore been the case.
I secure the lining and upper to a very thin inner sole in the manner above
described and place my second inner sole upon the first one with the grain side
downward, that is to say in contact with the upper surface of the first named inner
sole, the two being united by means of paste or cement. This arrangement
effectually prevents the curling up of the edges of the inner sole which so frequently
occurs in boots or shoes made by the methods of manufacture heretofore practised
and moreover ensures a great amount of pliability or suppleness. In some cases
the second inner sole may be of such material as will not necessitate the use of the
ordinary linen sock.
Instead of the unsightly and uncomfortable piece of leather made as heretofore
to form what is known as the "puff" at the toe of a boot or shoe, I employ
according to my invention a thin piece of leather or woven fabric which is drawn
around the toe and fore part in such a manner that it furnishes the required degree
of stiffness without producing the rigidity heretofore inevitable.
Another feature of my invention consists in thoroughly blocking or shaping the
clump or middle sole, when one is used, and the outer sole before it, or they,
are placed upon the boot, and for this purpose I provide a block or "pan" of steel,.,
iron, or other metal or hard substance, such as wood, shaped like the sole of the
boot but of somewhat larger dimensions. The said soles are perfectly shaped upon
this block and are ready for sewing to the inner sole when they leave the said
block and thus the usual blocking upon the last is obviated which is a great
practical advantage. It will be desirable to have two of these blocks, one for the
right foot, and the other for the left foot.
The tool heretofore mentioned for pressing the edges of the upper and lining
upon the inner sole consists of a roller made with a roughened portion and a
smooth portion extending completely around the periphery, the smooth portion
being of smaller diameter than the roughened portion. This roller is secured in a
suitable handle in such a manner that it will freely rotate. The rough portion is
used first and the smooth portion afterwards.
I provide another tool for drawing over the toe and heel portions of the upper
with the lining, on to the inner sole. This tool consists of a hook-shaped flat piece
of metal or other hard material which is provided with a handle and is grooved or
roughened on one side so as to have a greater hold upon the leather as it is
drawn over,

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said Alfred Hanniball in the Patent Office on the 10th March 1884.
ADFRED HANNIBALL, of Dudley Place, Paddington Green, in the County of
Middlesex, "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS OR SHOES, AND IN
APPARATUS THEREFOR
"
My invention relates to the manufacture, of boots and shoes and to apparatus
therefor, and.comprises various improvements as hereinafter set forth.
Hand-sewn boots or shoes as now made, whether pumps or double-soled boots
or shoes, possess many disadvantages; for example, in pumps, the stitches usually
give way long before the leather is worn out; and double-soled boots or shoes
are generally insecure, the welt is liable to give way and permit the entrance of
water; moreover pain and discomfort to the wearer are frequently caused by the
curling up of the edge of the inner sole where it is bevelled, and by the wooden
pegs which are driven through the inner sole.
Rivetted boots are so objectionable by reason of their stiffness or rigidity; and
the general discomfort which they cause to the wearer, that they are seldom made
except to withstand great wear and tear.
"Machine-sewn boots or shoes as now made are objectionable because the
wax-thread draws and irritates the foot, and the nails employed in these boots
or shoes make them very stiff and unyielding so that the pressure of the foot
sometimes causes the upper to project over the edge of the sole at one side of the
boot or shoe, the appearance of which is thus impaired long before it is worn out.
Moreover, when the boot or shoe is much used, the leather sinks gradually by
reason of the continued pressure of the foot so that the nails project above the
leather.
By my invention I obviate all these defects and inconveniences and make a boot
or shoe in such a manner that it will be more pliable and will yield more readily to
the natural movements of the foot of the wearer, and will, therefore, ensure a
greater degree of comfort than a boot or shoe made according to the methods of
manufacture heretofore employed, and will be waterproof and far more durable
than those heretofore made.
"
The usual method of uniting the upper to the inner sole in the process of
manufacture is to hold the edges of the lower portion of the upper over the lower
face of the inner sole and to secure them thereto by pegs or small nails called
tingles" the clump or middle sole is then secured to the said inner sole and
upper by nails, the heads of which are pointed and protrude so as to enter the
outer sole when the latter is applied. This method, although generally adopted,
has several important disadvantages, one of which is that frequently when the boot
has been worn for a short time some of these nails or pegs become loose and their
ends or points project above the upper surface of the inner sole, thereby subjecting
the wearer to much annoyance and pain by reason of these ends or points pressing
into his foot.
But according to my Invention I obviate these disadvantages by making
machine-sewn boots or shoes in such a manner that I avoid the permanent use
of nails or pegs and the usual hand sewing for securing the inner sole to the
upper; in some cases, however, for heavy work, I use a few nails or pegs at the
rear or heel portion of the boot or shoe.
In the accompanying drawing
Figure 1 is a plan, and
Tiere on odre view showing an outer sole and a clump or middle sole secured

page_text: Figure 3 18 a plan of a last made according to my invention
Figure 4 is a section on the line x, x, Figure 3
Figure 5 is a side elevation, partly in section, showing part of a wooden last and
a stand or support therefor
Figure 6 is a plan of a tool hereinafter described
Figure 7 is an underside view, and
Figure 8 a plan shewing another tool hereinafter described.
Like letters indicate corresponding parts throughout the drawing
In making a machine-sewn boot or shoe without nails, pegs or the like, I proceed
as follows, that is to say:-I first lay the inner sole upon the last, I then place the
upper, with the lining partially attached thereto, on the last and draw the edges of
the said lining over the lower face of the inner sole. I then turn back the upper
and secure the edges of the lining to the inner sole by means of paste or cement
and I insert the heel-stiffener in the proper position between the lining and the
upper. A piece of canvas or other stout woven fabric cut "on the cross or
diagonally (say from one inch to one inch and a half in width) is then placed
around the toe and along the edges of the sole to the waist, so as to form the side
lining and the "toe-puff."
"
This piece of canvas or other fabric prevents the formation of rucks or folds in
the lining and keeps the same perfectly smooth, and may, if desired, be coated
with an india-rubber or other waterproof solution. A thin coating of an India-
rubber or other waterproof solution is placed upon the inner sole so as to render
the same damp-proof. The upper is then drawn down over the lining and its
edges are folded over the inner sole and united to the same above the lining by.
means of paste or cement. The cemented or pasted portion is then pressed, by
means of a special tool or implement hereinafter described, to ensure the proper
union of the surfaces by means of the paste or cement. A few tacks or nails are
driven temporarily, through the portions of the upper and lining that are folded
over the inner sole, into the last or into a piece of leather or other suitable material
fitted therein as hereinafter described, for the purpose of retaining the upper and
lining in the proper position until the paste or cement has become set or dry
enough to hold the said parts, whereupon the said tacks or nails are removed.
the portion of the upper folded over the inner sole does not entirely cover the
bottom thereof, a recess or cavity is left which I fill up with cork, felt, or other
suitable material before the outer sole is put on.
As
3D
Before applying the outer sole to the boot or shoe, I thoroughly block or shape
the same so that it will exactly correspond with the sole-portion of the last. For
this purpose I put the said outer sole in a screw or other press between two
shaping blocks of steel, iron or other suitable material so as to give it the form
shewn in Figures 1 and 2 (in which A indicates the said outer sole) and make it
ready for securing to the inner sole; I thus gain a great practical advantage by
obviating the necessity for the usual blocking upon the last. When a "clump
or middle sole is used, I secure the said clump or middle sole (marked B in Figures
1 and 2) to the outer sole A by means of paste or cement, and fill up the recess or
cavity left within the said clump with a piece C of cork or other suitable material,
which is also secured by paste or cement to the outer sole. These parts are then
put in a press between shaping blocks before the paste or cement has set or
hardened, and are pressed into their proper shape as shewn, before they are placed
upon the last. It will be necessary to employ two pairs of these blocks, one for
the right foot and the other for the left foot.
Another feature of my invention consists in using, for heavy work, two thin
inner soles instead of the single thick inner sole heretofore employed.
In carrying this part of my said invention into practice, I secure the lining and
upper to a very thin inner sole in the manner above described, and, after the outer
sole has been put on and the boot or shoe has been sewn by the "Blake" or other
machine, I place a sock of thin material, such as leather or woven fabric, upon a
second leather inner sole to which it is secured by stitching around the edges.

page_text: This second inner sole is then placed in the boot or shoe upon the first inner sole
with the grain side downward, that is to say, in contact with the upper surface
of the first inner sole, the two soles being united by means of paste or cement.
This arrangement effectually prevents the curling up of the edges of the inner sole
and ensures a great amount of pliability or suppleness in the boot or shoe.
This double inner sole is only necessary in the heavier classes of work, and,
instead of the sock being stitched to this second leather inner sole, it is sometimes
stitched to a piece of canvas or similar woven fabric, which is cheaper, much lighter,
and more flexible than the leather, and which keeps the sock immovable by
ordinary wear as efficiently as the leather inner sole.
"
As lightness is very desirable in the case of house boots and shoes, slippers and
the like, I sometimes dispense with the ordinary leather inner sole and use a piece
of stout felt, canvas or other woven fabric, instead thereof, and I spread a thin
coating of an India-rubber or other waterproof solution over the surface of the said
fabric, and secure the upper to the said fabric by paste or cement in the manner
above described, merely using a very thin piece of leather around the heel of the
boot or shoe, as a stay for the stiffening. This piece of leather is "skived down
or reduced in thickness so that it is very thin at the waist of the boot or shoe, the
waist and fore part being made level with the edges of the upper by means of a
piece of felt or other suitable material before the sole is put on. After the boot or
shoe is sewn with the "Blake" or other machine, a sock of stout pliable leather,
cloth, felt or the like is inserted and secured by paste or cement to the aforesaid
canvas or other fabric. A boot or shoe made in this manner is more flexible and
yields more easily to the action of the foot than boots or shoes as heretofore made,
and its cost is much less.
"
By employing a sock as above described I avoid the irritation caused, in
ordinary boots or shoes, by the wax-thread.
It is obvious that my metliod as above described of uniting the upper and lining
to the inner sole necessitates the employment of a last into which the tacks or
nails for temporarily securing the upper and lining thereto, can be driven; and for
this purpose I may use a wooden last, but I prefer to employ an iron last which
I construct in the manner shewn in Figures 3 and 4, in which D is the last and d
a recess or cavity formed in the sole-portion thereof and extending from the toe to
a point at, or near, the front of the heel so that the heel-portion is left solid or
without a recess or cavity. But, if desired, the said recess or cavity may extend
nearly to the rear part of the heel. The said recess or cavity is about a quarter of
an inch in depth and extends across the sole leaving a part d' thereof (say about a
quarter of an inch wide) around the edges. This recess or cavity is filled with
leather or other material suitable for holding the points of the tacks or nails for
temporarily securing the upper and lining as above described.
When a wooden last is used, I provide a stand or support E, Figure 5, having
two or more prongs or projections e and I place a cap or shield F on the last G,
which cap or shield has two holes f coinciding with two holes g in the last. When
the last is placed upon the support E, the prongs e enter the said holes f, g and
effectually hold the last so as to prevent its turning whilst the boot or shoe is
being operated upon. I may, however, dispense with the said cap or shield, if
desired.
The tool hereinbefore mentioned for pressing the edges of the upper and lining
upon the inner sole is shown in Figure 6 and comprises a roller H made with a
roughened portion and a smooth portion h', the smooth portion being of smaller
diameter, than the roughened portion. This roller is carried by a pin or rod h
secured in a bifurcated handle in such a manner that the said roller will be free
to rotate. In using this tool the upper and lining are pressed down first by the
roughened portion h and then by the smooth portion h¹.
I also provide a cramping-hook or tool for drawing or pressing the toe and heel
portions of the upper and lining over the inner sole. This operation is usually
effected by means of a pair of pincers and a hammer or mallet, but the said

page_text: operation can be more effectually performed by means of this tool, which will lay
the toe and heel portions of the upper and lining smoothly upon the inner sole
without making the rucks or folds usual in boots or shoes in which this operation
has been performed by the ordinary means. This tool is shown in Figures 7 and 8
and consists of a hook-shaped piece J of metal or other suitable material which is
provided with a handle ; and is preferably grooved or roughened on its underside
as shewn at ¹, so that it will take a firm hold of the leather when in use.
using this tool it is held in the left hand and the curved or hook-shaped piece J
is placed against the upper at the heel or toe of the boot or shoe; the said piece is
then tapped with a hammer first on its bevelled edge and then on its upper side
to fold the upper and lining over the last and lay them smoothly thereon.
In
Having thus fully described my said invention and the manner of performing
the same I wish it understood that I claim :-
First. The improved manufacture substantially as above setforth whereby I
produce machine-sewn boots or shoes without nails, pegs or the like.
Second. The above described method of securing the inner sole (or a substitute
therefor such as a piece of canvas or other woven fabric) to the upper and lining
of a boot or shoe by means of paste or cement, for the purpose specified.
Third. In a boot or shoe, the employment of an inner sole (or a substitute
therefor such as a piece of canvas or other woven fabric) coated with a water-proof
solution as above specified.
Fourth. The method of blocking or shaping the outer sole of a boot or shoe
(with or without the "clump" or middle sole,) by steel or other shaping blocks, or
by other suitable means before placing it on the last, substantially as, and for the
purpose, set forth.
Fifth. The manufacture of a boot or shoe with two inner soles united by means
of paste or cement, substantially as, and for the purpose, set forth.
Sixth. An iron last having a recess or cavity in the sole-portion thereof to
receive a piece of leather or other suitable material, substantially as, and for the
purpose, set forth.
Seventh. The combination, with a wooden last (with or without the metal cap
or shield), of a stand therefor provided with two or more prongs or projections
adapted to enter corresponding apertures therein, substantially as, and for the
purpose, set forth.
Eighth. The improved tool substantially as above described for pressing the edges
of the upper and lining upon the inner sole, for the purpose specified.
Ninth. The cramping-hook or tool (with or without the grooves) substantially
as described; for drawing the toe and heel portions of the upper and lining over the
inner sole and laying them smoothly thereon as above specified.
In Witness whereof I the said Alfred Hanniball have bereunto set my hand and
seal this Tenth day of March in the year of Our Lord One thousand eight hundred
and eighty four.