IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF CLOTHS KNOWN AS COTTON CORDS
Year: 1879

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to James Henry Openshaw, of Bury, in the County of
Lancaster, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF
CLOTHS KNOWN AS COTTON CORDS."
Sealed the 2nd March 1880, and dated the 4th November 1879.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said James Henry Openshaw at
" IMPROVE-
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 4th November 1879.
JAMES HENRY OPENSHAW, of Bury, in the County of Lancaster.
MENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF CLOTHS KNOWN AS COTTON CORDS."
My Invention relates to a peculiar method of weaving certain cotton cords known
as six shafts or eight shafts, having six ends of warp to each rib of cord, whereby
I obtain a cloth with a firmer, stronger, and better "bound in" back than in the old
double jean back cord, and produce a more curly appearance, or what is known in
the trade as "cockle," upon a cloth of less weight than upon cloth woven by the
old method. Also in cloth woven by my new method there is less risk of damaged
and cut backs in the subsequent finishing of the cloth on account of the inside of
the back being almost like plain cloth instead of being "twilled," as in the old
double jean back cord.
The "cockle" upon the cloth is formed by the perfect manner in which I cause
the weft threads to intersect the two warp threads that bind in the face, this inter-
section causing the cloth to have a tendency to "pucker" or "cockle."
On reference to the diagram Sheet, Fig. A is a tabby or plain back cord woven
by my improved method; Fig. B is a tabby or plain back cord woven the old way.
It will be seen by comparing the two Figures that the weft threads in weaving
intersect more alternately in Fig. A the two warp threads marked 1 and 2 (or the
warp threads that bind in the face) than what the weft threads intersect the 1st
and 2nd warp threads in Fig. B. It is this perfect or alternate intersection which
causes the aforesaid shrinking or cockle on the cloth. As however a tabby or plain
back cord has a comparatively inferior back to the old double jean back cord for
raising" upon or obtaining a woolly appearance upon in the subsequent finishing,
and also it being impossible to weave cloth above a certain weight by either Fig. A
or Fig. B (say, for 34 inches width in the reed and 75 yards in length, not above

page_text: 65 lbs. in weight). I propose to employ Fig. C for cloth, width and length as
before, from 65 lbs. to 75 lbs. weight, and Fig. D for cloth above 75 lbs. in weight.
Both Figs. C and D can be modified (see Figs. E and F). Upon examination
and comparison of the Figures t will be at once seen that Figures E and F are only
variations or modifications of Figures C and D, as in all four Figures, C, D, E,
and F, the back is formed by the weft thread or pick intersecting the warp threads
ten times in the full breadth of the figure or pattern.
The Invention of such patterns or any modification thereof I claim in respect of
cords having six ends of warp to each cord rib; also I claim the Invention of cords,
as aforesaid, having six ends of warp to each cord rib, in which the face threads are
completely alternated, as in my Figures of A, C, D, E, and F, which alternation
causes the aforesaid pucker or cockle upon the cloth.
In Figs. A and B, Nos. 1 and 2 are the warp threads which bind in the face.
In Figs. C, D, E, and F, Nos. 1 and 2, and 7 and 8, are the warp threads which
bind in the face.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said James Henry Openshaw in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 4th
May 1880.
"
JAMES HENRY OPENSHAW, of Bury, in the County of Lancaster. IMPROVE-
MENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF CLOTHS KNOWN AS COTTON CORDS."
My Invention relates to a peculiar method of weaving certain cotton cords known
as six shafts or eight shafts, the object being to obtain a stronger cloth and one
better adapted for wearing apparel than the old cord, and also a cloth which will
"cockle" at a much lighter weight than cords woven the old way.
My Invention consists in the first place of a new back, and in the second place of
a new method of combining the face with the back.
This new method of combining the face and back is applicable to some cords
woven with the old back, particularly so to cords known as "tabby backs." My
new back can also be used with the old method of combining the face and back.
Figs. 1 and 2 are patterns of six end cords with my new back, and with the old
order or succession of face picks, whilst Figs. C, D, E, & F, on the Sheet of
diagrams filed with my Provisional Specification, and Figs. 3 and 4 on the diagram
Sheet filed here with are patterns of six end cords, with my new back allied to my
new method of combining the face and back together, or new order of face
picks.
Figs. 5 and 6 are patterns of eight end cords woven by my improved method.
Figs. 7, 8, 9, and 10, are sectional diagrams of my new back applied to six and eight
end cords. It will be seen in all the Figures of 7, 8, 9, and 10, that each back pick
intersects or divides the warp threads ten times to the "gait over' or "repeat" of
the pattern.
"
"
In these diagrams showing the back picks the black dots represent the warp
threads.
In Fig. 7 the first back pick misses intersection between the third and fourth and
between the tenth and eleventh ends.
The second back pick misses intersection between the fourth and fifth and between
the ninth and tenth ends.
The third back pick misses intersection between the fifth and sixth and between
the eighth and ninth ends, and
The fourth back pick misses intersection between the second and third and between
the eleventh and twelfth ends.
In Fig. 8 the first back pick misses intersection between the third and fourth and
between the eleventh and twelfth ends.
The second back pick misses intersection between the fifth and sixth and between
the ninth and tenth ends.
The third back pick misses intersection between the fifth and sixth and between
the ninth and tenth ends, and
The fourth back pick misses intersection between the third and fourth and between
the eleventh and twelfth ends.
In Fig. 9 the first back pick misses intersection between the third and fourth and
fourth and fifth, the sixth and seventh, twelfth and thirteenth, the fourteenth,
fifteenth, and sixteenth ends.
The second back pick misses intersection between the fourth and fifth, the sixth,
seventh and eighth, the eleventh, twelfth and thirteenth, and the fourteenth and
fifteenth ends.
The third back pick is the reverse of the second back pick, and misses intersection
at the same points.
And the fourth back pick is the reverse of the first back picks, and misses inter-
section at the same points.

page_text: In Fig. 10 the first back pick misses intersection between the third, fourth and
fifth, the sixth and seventh, and the twelfth, thirteenth, fourteenth, and fifteenth
ends.
The second back pick misses intersection between the fourth, fifth, six and seventh,
the eleventh, twelfth and thirteenth, and between the fourteenth and fifteenth
ends.
The third back pick misses intersection between the fourth and fifth, the sixth,
'seventh and eighth, the tenth and eleventh, the twelfth and thirteenth, and the
fourteenth and fifteenth ends; and the fourth back pick misses intersection between
the second and third, the fourth and fifth, the sixth and seventh, the twelfth and
thirteenth, and the fourteenth, fifteenth, and sixteenth ends.
"
I have in my Provisional Specification and diagram Sheet shewn that these
backs can be modified or differently arranged, but so long as the back pick intersects
the warp threads ten times to the "gait over or repeat of the pattern (no matter
betwixt which warp threads such intersection takes place), such patterns have
substantially the same backs as cloth woven by my new method.
In all patterns that have my new back, and also my new method of combining
the face and back, it will be seen that the two warp threads that bind in the pile
or face of the cord are completely alternated each weft pick, whether the pick goes
to form the face or to form the back.
Having now described the nature and object of my said Invention, together with
the manner in which the same is to be or may be performed or carried into practical
effect, I wish it to be understood that I claim as my Invention the improvements
in the manufacture of cotton cords, herein before described, or any modification
.thereof.
In witness whereof, I, the said James Henry Openshaw, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this First day of May, in the year of our Lord One