IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ELASTIC FABRICS
Year: 1857

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Archibald Turner, of Leicester, Elastic Web Manu-
facturer, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF
ELASTIC FABRICS."
Sealed the 12th January 1858, and dated the 4th September 1857.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Archibald Turner at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 4th
September 1857.
I, ARCHIBALD TURNER, of Leicester, Elastic Web Manufacturer, do
hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE
MANUFACTURE OF ELASTIC FABRICS," to be as follows:-
This Invention of "Improvements in the Manufacture of Elastic
Fabrics relates to various methods of manufacturing a compound fabric,
composed of strands of india-rubber combined with non-elastic strands,
threads, or yarns. One method of producing the improved compound
fabric consists in an improvement upon an Invention formerly patented
by me in conjunction with Luke Turner, and bearing date the 15th day
of October 1856; that Invention consisted in binding or sewing together
two non-elastic fabrics with a scries of elastic strands between them.
The first of the present improvements consists in dispensing with one of
the woven fabrics and manufacturing an elastic fabric with only one
woven fabric for a foundation, and combining therewith strands of india-

page_text: rubber, which are secured to the woven fabric by means of cross or weft
threads, and which cross threads are themselves secured by two sets of
warp threads that are worked by needles and guides in a similar manner
to that shewn and described in the Specification of my former Patent.
Another mode of making an elastic fabric on a woven fabric for a
foundation consists in causing the guides which operate the longitudinal
warp thread to shog to the right and left, so as to throw their threads
to and fro over the india-rubber strands, and thereby cover the latter,
the threads of the guides being secured by the threads belonging to the
needles that operate on the opposite side of the fabric.
An elastic fabric without a woven fabric for a foundation, but with
longitudinal elastic strands therein, may be produced by causing the
needles as well as the guides to shog to the right and left, so that they
may be tied into one another at the proper intervals.
Another kind of elastic fabric may be produced by throwing a weft
thread across at the back of the fabric, and securing or tying it in by
means of the threads belonging to the needles, by causing the latter to
pass over the cross threads when they are thrown across. The india-
rubber strands are covered with the threads of the guides, which arc
shogged to and fro for the purpose, as in the former instance.
A modification of the above may be produced by causing a cross or weft
thread to be passed through a series of loops formed upon a row of
needles which are passed through the fabric. The loops are formed on
the needles by first passing the latter through the fabric, and then drawing
them back a short distance, so as to form a kind of bow or loop from the
slack of the thread. The weft or cross thread is wound on a bobbin or
spool placed at any convenient part of the machine, and is inserted
through the whole series of loops by means of a suitable narrow instru-
ment which may be called a needle as it is provided at one end with an
eye, through which is passed the weft thread, which, as the instrument
is passed into the loops, is drawn off the bobbin or spool.
A portion of this instrument or needle is also cut away in order to
leave the thread exposed so that it may be taken up and held by a pin
when the instrument retires and leaves the weft thread in the loops. A
pin or point is employed at the sides of the fabric for the purpose of keep
ing the web or fabric extended, and preventing it from being drawn in
irregularly by the weft, when passing in through the loops. The weft,
while being inserted into the loops, is made to pass through an eye, hook,
or other contrivance attached to a lever, which when the thread is entire
will be sustained in a given position; but should the thread break the
lever will fall and act on a stopping apparatus, which as the operative

page_text: parts of the machine rotate will cause the driving gear to be thrown off
and the machine stopped until the thread is joined and made whole
again. In order to produce a proper and strong selvage the edge of the
fabric may be turned over a short distance and stitched down by the last
needle. This turning over of the edge of the fabric is effected by means
of a bar or wire having a hooked or turned end, against which the edges
of the fabric bear.
All these fabrics will possess a considerable degree of elasticity and
will present an ornamental appearance which will render them peculiarly
applicable for the manufacture of the tops of ladies' boots and shoes.
I also propose to employ the narrow instrument or needle above men-
tioned in place of the ordinary shuttle for introducing weft threads into
woven fabrics in which the weft is passed through a shed formed from a
warp. The needle in this case is the same in principle as the one described
in reference to the sewing machine above mentioned. And in order to
produce a good selvage a bearded needle is adapted on each side of the
fabric, and every time the weft passes through the shed or opening of the
warp threads the needle is pressed and forms a series of loops on each
side of the fabric. The advantage derived from this mode of weaving
will be considerable as the warp threads will only be required to open
about half an inch, while according to the present mode of weaving they
open about 2 inches. For some purposes it may be found convenient
to draw in the weft thread from off a bobbin by means of a hook at the
end of the needle or instrument, instead of passing it through the eye as
above mentioned.
Another benefit to be derived is, that the slay will only be required to
move about 1 inches from the fabric, whereas the slay according to the
present mode moves about 6 inches, thereby creating a great deal of fric-
tion on both the india-rubber thread and the cotton.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters l'atent, filed
by the said Archibald Turner in the Great Scal Patent Office on the
4th March 1858.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, ARCHIBALD
TURNER, of Leicester, Elastic Web Manufacturer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her m st Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Fourth day of September, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-seven, in the twenty-first

page_text: year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and
grant unto me, the said Archibald Turner, Her special license, that I,
the said Archibald Turner, my executors, administrators, and assigns,
or such others as I, the said Archibald Turner, my executors, administra-
tors, and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from
time to time and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed,
should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the
United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and
Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE
ELASTIC FABRICS," upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said
Archibald Turner, by an instrument in writing under my hand and seal,
should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Inven-
tion, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the
same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar
months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
OF
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Archibald Turner, do hereby declare
the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement, reference being had to the Drawings hereunto
annexed, and to the letters and figures marked thereon (that is to say):-
This Invention of "Improvements in the Manufacture of Elastic
Fabrics relates to various methods of manufacturing a compound fabric
composed of strands of india-rubber combined with non-elastic strands,
threads, or yarns.
"
One method of producing the improved compound fabric consists in an
improvement upon an Invention formerly patented by me in conjunction
with Luke Turner, and bearing date the Fifteenth day of October. One
thousand eight hundred and fifty-six. That Invention consisted in bind-
ing or sewing together two non-elastic fabrics with a series of elastic
strands between them.
The first of the present improvements consists in dispensing with one
of the woven fabrics and manufacturing an elastic fabric with only one
woven fabric for a foundation, and combining therewith strands of india-
rubber, which are secured to the woven fabric by means of cross or weft
threads, and which cross threads are themselves secured by two sets of
warp threads that are worked by needles and guides in a similar manner
to that shewn and described in the Specification of my former Patent
above referred to.
Figure 1 in the accompanying Drawings is a diagram representing the
principal working parts whereby a fabric of the above description is made.
f, f, are the needles which carry and work one set of the warp threads; -

page_text: 9, g, are a set of guides which work the second set of warp threads; b is
the foundation fabric, which must be wound on a beam or roller, as is
well understood; c, e, are the india-rubber strands; & are the first set of
or needle warp threads, and d' are the second set of warp threads for the
guides; is a guide for laying in a weft thread m between the second set
of warp threads and the india-rubber strands.
Another mode of making an elastic fabric on a woven fabric for a foun-
dation consists in causing the guides which operate one set of the longi-
tudinal warp threads to shog to the right and left, so as to throw their
threads to and fro over the india-rubber strands, and thereby cover the
latter, the threads of the guides being secured by the threads belonging
to the needles that operate on the opposite side of the fabric.
An elastic fabric without a woven fabric for a foundation, but with
longitudinal elastic strands thereon, may be produced by causing the
needles as well as the guides to shog to the right and left, so that they may
be tied into one another at the proper intervals.
Figure 2 is a diagram shewing the manner of producing an elastic
fabric without a woven fabric for a foundation. are the needles, and
g the guides, each of which are provided with a set of warp threads, as
in Figure 1, the weft thread in the present instance being dispensed with.
The india-rubber strands are carried down through a reed or slay, and
are passed between the needles f. It should be understood that the
needles may be withdrawn from between the strands of india-rubber
and shogged to the right or left, as may be required, and as the guides
may be shogged; also it will be seen that the two sets of warp threads
may be tied into one another at the proper intervals, so as to cover over
the india-rubber strands, and an elastic fabric without a foundation may
be thereby produced.
Another kind of elastic fabric may be produced by using a weft
thread in place of a woven foundation fabric. To this end the weft thread
is thrown across and is arranged to occupy the place of the woven foun-
dation fabric above referred to. This weft thread is secured by tying it
in by means of warp threads worked by a suitable arrangement of needles,
whereby the warp threads are caused to pass over the cross or weft
threads when they are thrown across. The india-rubber strands are
covered on the other side by the warp threads that are worked by the
guides, which are shogged to and fro for the purpose, as in the former
instance.
Figure 3 is a diagram shewing the manner of producing an elastic
fabric of the kind above referred to. c are the india-rubber strands;
f, /, the needles provided with one set of warp threads; g are the guides
which work the second set of warp threads; is the weft thread carrier,

page_text: which lays the weft thread between the needle warp threads and the india-
rubber strands. The weft thread having been laid behind the strands
the needles are advanced between the strands to hold it, and they in
their turn are secured by the warp threads of the guides, which also serve
to cover the other side of the india-rubber strands.
Another kind of fabric with a woven fabric for a foundation may be
produced by causing a cross or weft thread to be passed through a series
of loops formed upon a row of needles which are passed through the
woven fabric which forms the foundation. The loops are formed on the
needles by first passing the latter through the foundation fabric and then
drawing them back a short distance, so as to form a kind of bow or loop
from the slack of the thread. The weft or cross thread is wound on a
bobbin or spool placed at any convenient part of the machine, and is
inserted through the whole series of loops by means of a thread carrier
or suitable narrow instrument, which may be called a needle as it is pro-
vided at one end with an eye through which is passed the weft thread.
As the needle or weft carrier is made to traverse to and fro in the machine,
the weft is drawn off the bobbin or spool and is passed through an eye
at the end of a tumbling lever connected with the knocking-off apparatus.
A portion of this instrument, needle, or weft carrier is cut away near the
eye, in order to leave the thread exposed, so that it may be taken up and
held by a pin or point when the carrier retires and leaves the weft thread
in the loops. Another pin or point is employed at the other side of the
fabric for the purpose of keeping the web or fabric extended, and pre-
venting it from being drawn in irregularly by the weft when passing in
through the loops. The weft while being inserted into the loops is made to
pass through an eye, hook, or other contrivance attached to the tumbling
lever above mentioned, which, when the thread is entire will be sustained
in a given position; but should the thread break, the lever will fall and act
on a stopping apparatus, which as the operative parts of the machine
rotate will cause the driving gear to be thrown off and the machine
stopped until the thread is joined and made whole again, or a fresh thread
is supplied. In order to produce a proper and strong selvage, the edge
of the fabric may be turned over a short distance and stitched down by
the last needle. This turning over of the edge of the fabric is effected
by means of a bar, wire, or curved plate having a hooked or turned end
against which the edges of the fabric bear.
Figure 5 in the accompanying Drawings is a partial front elevation of
a machine constructed upon the principle or plan just mentioned; and
Figure 6 is a sectional elevation of the same. a, a, is the framework of
the machine; b is the roller or beam on which the foundation fabric is

page_text: wound, and from which it is supplied to the working parts of the machine;
c is the roller on which the india-rubber strands are wound; and d is the
beam or roller that contains the warp threads that are worked by the
needle, with the exception of those warp threads which are intended to
form the selvages of the fabric, and which are contained on the vertical
bobbins e, e, hereafter described; /, /, are the needles, which are secured
in leads and are attached to the needle bar, which is worked by the
levers g, g, by means of cams or other suitable contrivances on the main
driving shaft of the machine. The foundation fabric is conducted
from the roller bover the breast beam i and down in front of a breast
plate i, the edges of which are turned up so as to turn over the edges of
the foundation fabric to form the selvage, as shewn in Figure 6. j, j, in
Figure 6, are knives or cutting edges, whereby the fabric is cut to the
proper width as it is fed to the needles, and other working parts con-
nected therewith. The foundation fabric, after leaving the breast plate
i, Figure 6, passes under a curved plate or bar, which keeps it extended
and stretched out ready to receive the needles f, /; and in order to ensure
the perfect working of the latter they are caused to pass through holes.
made in the upper part of the stationary guide plate /*, over which the
foundation fabric is passed, as shewn in Figure 6. The levers g, g, of the
needle bar vibrate on the centre, and as by their vibrating or backward
and forward motion the row of needles are first driven through the foun-
dation fabric and then drawn back, it will be easily understood that by
this motion a series of loops will be formed under the needles, and through
these loops a weft thread is passed by means of a long horizontal needle
or thread carrier 1, which is secured at one end to an arm fixed on the
reciprocating rod 1, whereby it is worked to and fro, and having at its
other end an eye through which is passed the thread or yarn that forms
the weft, and which is wound upon vertical bobbins m placed at any con-
venient part of the machine. I find it convenient to make a groove on
the under side of the needle or thread carrier for the purpose of receiv-
ing the weft thread and preventing it from interfering with the loops
through which it passes. In order to ensure the accurate operation of
the weft needle or weft thread carrier it is made to work in a fixed
guide, which keeps the thread carrier steady. When the weft thread
has been passed through the loops from end to end, and it is required
to withdraw the carrier and leave the thread in the loops, the thread is
securely held (while the loops are being lightened on it) by means of a
vibrating pin or point n, which is mounted on a centre attached to the
rocking shaft n. Immediately before the thread carrier is drawn out
of the loops the point n is advanced and made to enter a notch or recess

page_text: near the end of the carrier, as shewn in Figure 7, and it is thereby enabled
to take up the weft thread and hold it until the latter is secured in the
fabric. Another pin at the other side of the fabric, and which I will call
a selvage or temple pin, o, is made to bear against the other selvage of
the fabric while the weft thread is being thrown in. This pin o is
mounted on another rocking shaft o', and whereas the pin n is brought
into action when the weft carrier 1 is just about to be drawn back out of
the loops, the pin o is brought into action just before the weft carrier is
about to enter the loops. The object of the pin o is to prevent the weft
from dragging in the selvage and gradually narrowing the fabric; and
the object of the pin n is to prevent the weft thread from being drawn
back when the carrier is withdrawn. Both the rocking shafts n' and o
are worked by means of cams on the main driving shaft h, from which
motion is communicated to the rocking shafts o* & * by the connecting
rods P. The traverse of the thread carrier is effected by means of the
pulley and cord q', which latter is attached to the traversing bar 12,
The pulley q is mounted on one end of a shaft r, which also carries a
toothed pinion behind, shewn by dots in Figure 5. This pinion gears
into a vertical rack s, which is moved up and down by means of a cam
on one end of the main driving shaft; it will therefore be seen that by
altering the size of the toothed pinion that gears into the racks the
length of the traverse of the weft carrier may be lengthened or shortened
at pleasure, according to the width of the fabric intended to be produced.
And in order that the same weft carrier may be applicable for various
widths of fabric I have made it adjustable on the arm *, on which it may
be secured at any point by set screws or otherwise, as shewn in Figure 5,
and also in the detached view, Figure 7, of the thread carrier.
The operation of the several parts is as follows:-Upon motion being
communicated to the main driving shaft h, the whole series of needles /
which carry the warp threads are brought forward and forced simul-
taneously through the foundation fabric. Almost immediately after the
needles have commenced their advance, that is, when they have advanced
about a quarter of an inch, the clamping bars t, t, Figure 6, are brought
into action, and made to hold the warp threads, so as to prevent the
needles from drawing any warp off the beam; the consequence is, that
as the needles f advance they will draw up and tighten the loops
previously formed, and thus complete the previous course.
The vibrating
point o is then brought forward and caused to hold the right-end selvage
of the fabric and prevent it from being drawn in by the weft thread when
it advances. The needles are then drawn back a certain distance to form
a series or line of loops, through which the weft thread carrier / is then

page_text: projected by the action of the pulley q and cord q³. The weft thread
having been thrown or passed in through the line of loops, the point or
pin n is advanced and made to take hold of the weft thread, and prevent
it from being drawn back out of the loops when the thread carrier recedes;
the needles are then wholly withdrawn from the fabric, which is then
advanced by the taking-up motion so as to bring forward a fresh part of
the foundation fabric for the needles to enter and pass through. Just
before the needles are drawn out of the fabric the clamping bars t, t,
are opened and release the warp threads, over which they pass for about
a quarter of an inch. The same operations are repeated to form another
course, and so on. Should either of the outermost warp threads at the
extreme edges of the fabric break, a bad selvage would be the result;
and as this would damage the piece of goods I so arrange these outermost
warp threads that should one of them break the breakage will act upon
certain parts of the mechanism, and will stop the machine. For this
purpose these outermost warp threads are separated from the rest, and
are wound upon the detached bobbins e, e, which are mounted in a
vibrating frame 2, u, Figure 6. The threads from the bobbins e pass
through an eye at the upper end of a weighted rod v, which is placed
inside the spindle of the bobbin, and as long as the warp thread remains
whole it will keep suspended the rod inside the spindle; but when the
thread breaks the weighted rod will drop down and project below the
bottom of the vibrating frame in which the bobbins are mounted, as seen
in Figure 6; and as the frame vibrates the projecting end of the rod v
will come against a bar w which is connected by suitable mechanism to
the knocking-off lever, and will drive the bar w forward, and will by the
action of the knocking-off lever stop the machine, as is well understood.
In order to stop the machine automatically when the weft thread
breaks, the weft thread is conducted from its bobbin m up over the shaft
*, Figure 5, and through an eye at the end of a weighted tumbling lever
, which is mounted on a standard fixed on the shaft y.
It will now be understood that should the weft thread break, or the
supply of weft run out, the tumbling lever a will be no longer supported
thereby, and will consequently fall down into the position shewn by dots
in Figure 5, and the tail end of this lever will thereby be elevated. A
stud or standard z on the reciprocating rod is made to reciprocate to
and fro while the machine is at work, and will pass over the tumbling
lever while the latter is maintained in a horizontal position; but when the
tail end of the lever is elevated, as shewn in the Figure, as will be the
case should the supply of weft cease, the reciprocating standard z will
come into contact with the tumbling lever x and force back the latter, and

page_text: with it the shaft or rod on which it is fixed, and by this means will act on
the throwing-off lever and throw the machine out of gear.
All these fabrics will possess a considerable degree of elasticity, and
will
present an ornamental appearance which will render them peculiarly
applicable for the manufacture of the tops of ladies' boots and shoes.
I also propose to employ the narrow instrument, or needle, or weft
carrier above mentioned place of the ordinary shuttle for introducing
weft threads into woven fabrics, in which the weft is thrown by means of
a shuttle through a shed formed from a warp, as is well known.
The carrying needle in this case is the same in principle as the one
described in reference to the sewing machine above mentioned, and in
order to produce good selvages to the fabric a bearded needle is adapted
on each side of the fabric, and every time the weft passes through the
shed or opening of the warp threads the bearded needles are passed
through openings, notches, or recesses made in the carrying needle for
the purpose of catching hold of the weft. The bearded needles are then
pressed and drawn back preparatory to being pushed forward again to
take up the weft a second time, and by thus forming a series of loops on
each side of the tabric the warp threads are secured and a selvage is
produced.
Figure 8 is a diagram representing the manner of employing the im-
proved weft carrier in place of an ordinary shuttle in the manufacture of
ordinary woven fabrics. a is the woven fabric or cloth just made; b, b,
represent the warp threads; c is the weft thread which is wound on a
bobbin placed in any convenient part of the loom; & is the improved weft
carrier whereby the weft is carried or passed into and through the shed;
e, e, are bearded needles placed at each side of the cloth or work. The
operation of the various parts is as follows:-After the batten has beaten
up the previous course, and a shed has been formed by the heddles in the
ordinary manner as in the shuttle loom, the batten recedes from the work,
and the first bearded needle e is made to advance until the point of the
beard is about one-eighth of an inch beyond the last shoot; the weft
carrier d, which is connected to a vibrating rod (whereby it is made to
traverse to and fro at the proper intervals, somewhat in the manner shewn
in Figure 5) is then projected through the shed and carries the weft
thread in with it, and in so doing will lay the weft or shoot over the beard
of the needle e, as shewn in Figure 8. The other bearded needle e is
then advanced, and by entering the notch or recess 2, near the eye of the
weft carrier, it is caused to take hold of the weft thread which is passed
under the beard of the needle, and is drawn back thereby, when the batten
advances a second time and thereby forms a loop on the needle. The

page_text: thread carrier is then withdrawn from the shed, and after the batten has
beaten up the shoot and another shed has been formed the weft carrier
is advanced a second time, and the operations are repeated by the needles
ex being again brought forward to lay hold of the weft, but in so doing
the loops previously formed thereon are pushed from under the beards,
and after a second set of loops have been formed, the first set will, by the
drawing back of the needles, be thrown over the second set, and a secure
selvage be thereby formed on the fabric; the beards of the needles being
pressed down to allow the loops of the previous course to pass over, as is
well known in knitting machines.
The advantages derived from this mode of weaving will be considerable,
as the warp threads will only be required to open about half an inch,
while according to the present mode of weaving they open about two
inches and a half. For some purposes it may be found convenient to
draw in the weft thread from off a bobbin by means of a hook at the end
of the needle, weft carrier, or instrument, instead of passing through the
eye, as above mentioned. When the weft is introduced into the shed by
an instrument of this kind, only one bearded needle is required to form
the selvage on one side or edge of the fabric, as the other selvage will
be formed in a similar manner to that incidental to the ordinary process
of weaving. Another benefit to be derived from the above mode of modes
of introducing the weft into the shed of woven fabrics is, that the slay
will only be required to move about one inch and a half from the fabric,
whereas the slay, according to the present mode, moves about six inches
in wide fabrics, thereby creating a great deal of friction on both the india-
rubber strands and the cotton thread or yarn.
Having now described my Invention of improvements in the manufac-
ture of elastic fabrics, and having explained the manner of carrying the
same into effect, I would observe in conclusion that I do not mean or
intend to confine myself rigidly to any precise arrangement or construc-
tion of parts whereby the operation and action of the several working parts
may be effected, as they may be considerably varied in some particulars
without departing from the nature and object of my Invention.
In conclusion, I claim, firstly, the modes herein described and shewn of
producing elastic fabrics by a combination of elastic and non-elastic
strands or threads, either with or without a woven fabric for a foundation;
1 claim particularly the mode or modes herein shewn and described of
combining a weft thread or weft threads with elastic and non-elastic
strands, either with or without a foundation fabric.
Secondly, as regards woven fabrics, I claim the use of the weft thread
carrier or needle above described, or any mere modification thereof, in

page_text: combination with the bearded needles or other analogous instruments
whereby the weft thread may be taken up and secured, and a complete
selvage be thereby produced.
In witness whereof, I, the said Archibald Turner, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Third day of March, One thousand eight
hundred and fifty-eight.
Witness,
W. E. NEWTON.
.
A. TURNER. (L.S.)