IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FRINGES AND OF PLEAT FOR THESE AND OTHER ORNAMENTAL WORK
Year: 1852

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Richard Whytock; of Green Park, Libberton,
in the County of Midlothian, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS
IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FRINGES AND OF PLEAT FOR THESE AND OTHER
ORNAMENTAL WORK."
Sealed the 8th January 1853, and.dated the 1st October 1852.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Richard Whytock
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition,
on the 1st October 1852.
I, RICHARD WHYTOCK, of Green Park, Zibberton, in the County of
Midlothian, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FRINGES AND OF PLEAT FOR THESE
AND OTHER ORNAMENTAL WORK" to be as follows:-
This Invention consists of manufacturing fringes or parts of fringes
and other ornamental work by employing printed or party colored
warps in warp lace machines.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Richard Whytock in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 30th March 1853.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I,
RICHARD WHYTOCK, of Green Park, Libberton, in the County of Mid-
lothian, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the First day of October, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-two, in the six-
teenth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors,
give and grant unto me, the said Richard Whytock, Her especial
licence that I, the said Richard Whytock, my executors, administra-
tors, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Richard Whytock, my
executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with,
and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the
term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise,
and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland,
the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS
IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FRINGES AND OF PLEAT FOR THESE AND OTHER
ORNAMENTAL WORK," upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the
said Richard Whytock, by an instrument in writing under my hand
and seal, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the
said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed,
and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within
six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said
Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Richard Whytock, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same
is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement thereof (that is to say):
This Invention consists of manufacturing fringes or parts of fringes
and other ornamental work by employing printed or party colored
warps in warp lace machines.

page_text: And in order that my Invention may be most fully understood, I will
proceed to describe the means pursued by me:
:
This new fringe I have termed the tressal or tressel, fringe, is made
of parti-colored-tlireads or yarns, and is formed or manufactured of
such in warp
lace machines. And I would remark that the term "pleat":
in the title I apply to the looped cords if made in separate, strands,
instead of their being made and connected together in the form of
fringe in the samic machine, either with the view of their being used as
ornamental braid, or of their being afterwards made into fringe in'
ordinary fringe looms. Those pleats, as I have termed them, consist of
two or more printed or party colored threads previously coloured alike,
or nearly alike, interlaced or looped together on the principle of double
crochet.
The following are the means on which I propose to make this
"tressel fringe," or those separate pleats or strands-A printed or
party colored warp is prepared, as is well understood, of as many
threads or strands as the machine will admit of, say five hundred pairs
of threads. Those threads are placed in guides of the machine, as if
about to make looped lace therein, and when a narrow and nearly close
band has been formed, with all the threads across the machine to bind
them altogether in their order, the formation of the fringe or separate.
cords proceeds, by each pair of threads being simply interlooped or
interlaced together so as to form one cord of the fringe.
Farther, each
pair is coloured so as that a regular pattern will be secured whenever
the threads are placed in order are formed into cords hanging side by
side. When the workman has formed those cords or pleats separate
from each other, yet in closs order, say to the depth of five, six, or more
inches, according to the depth intended for the fringe, he then weaves
another band like what he commenced with, and this second connecting
band forms the head of the next row, of fringe. In this way the
process goes on until he has exhausted his warp of parti-coloured yarn,
and formed a web of plaited cords, bound at intervals of so many inches
by cross bands. The web thus formed is hard rolled upon another
beam, and subjected to a steaming process, to make the pleats or cords
keep their perfect form. The sections of the fringe then are separated

page_text: by cutting the lower ends of each section from the upper edge of the
next band. If the frame is two yards wide the fringe will consist of
lengths of two yards each, and those are afterwards joined together
with a needle or otherwise; and, if desirable, an ornamental gimp or
band is planted on the head formed, as above described, in the warp
machine.
This additional head of gimp or other lace might be introduced
along with the weaving of those cords in the fringe looms, that is,
supposing the cords or pleats are first formed in the lace frame; but
the best way is to form the fringe as above described in the same frame
that makes the cords, and any regular patterns may thus be produced
instead of fringes that have been usually made quite plain.
I make no claim for the Invention of the warp lace frame, nor for
the parti-coloured warp as a new Invention; and I am aware that
looped lace fabrics have before been made with printed or party colored
warps in warp lace machines. I do not, therefore, claim the same.
But what I claim is, the manufacture of fringes or parts of fringes of
printed or party colored warps by looping them in warp lace machines,
as herein described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Richard Whytock, have here-
unto set my hand and seal, this Fifteenth day of March,
in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and
fifty-three.
Witness,
JAMES S. MILLAR,
9, Archibald Place,
Edinburgh.
RICHARD WHYTOCK. (L.S:)