IMPROVEMENTS IN APPARATUS FOR USE IN DRAFTING PATTERNS FOR LADIES' DRESSES AND UNDERGARMENTS
Year: 1882

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Tate Philpott of Lexden Heath Colchester in the
County of Essex for an invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN APPARATUS FOR
USE IN DRAFTING PATTERNS FOR LADIES' DRESSES AND UNDERGARMENTS."
A communication from abroad by James A. Wilson, of San José, California.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Tate Philpott at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 17th March 1882.
WILLIAM TATE PHILPOTT of Lexden Heath, Colchester, in the County of Essex,
"IMPROVEMENTS IN APPARATUS FOR USE IN DRAFTING PATTERNS FOR LADIES
DRESSES AND UNDER GARMENTS." [A communication from abroad by James A.
Wilson, of San José, California.]
My Invention relates to an apparatus for use in drafting patterns for cutting
out the different portions of ladies and childrens dresses and it consists of a scale
or chart made of wood or other hard material of sufficient thickness to form a
guide for the pencil or marker of a peculiar shape having two straight edges at
right angles to one another, and one curvilinear edge having reverse curves of
varying radius comprising all the curves needed for drafting the outline of any
pattern. The straight edges are divided according to any system of measurement
adopted by scales annexed thereto and provided with arbitrary marks and divisions
corresponding to certain measurements of the figure, and the curvilinear edge is
also divided by scales and arbitrary marks and divisions corresponding to certain
measurements of the figure, whereby the curved lines of the pattern may be drawn
and their length determined. This apparatus is used in connection with an
appropriate system of measurement to which the different scales with which both
sides of the apparatus is provided correspond, and an appropriate system of
drafting the patterns in which the outlines and measurements of the scale
co-operate to determine the outline of the patterns.
By means of this apparatus a saving of time labor and material may be
effected and a perfect fit obtained by a person practically unskilled in the art of
dress making.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed
by the said William Tate Philpott in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
16th September 1882.
WILLIAM TATE PHILPOTT of Lexden Heath, Colchester in the County of Essex
"IMPROVEMENTS IN APPARATUS FOR USE IN DRAFTING PATTERNS FOR LADIES'
A communication from abroad by James A.
DRESSES AND UNDER GARMENTS
Wilson of San José, Caifornia.
"
This Invention relates to an apparatus for use in drafting patterns for cutting
out the different portions of ladies' and childrens dresses, and it consists of a scale
or chart made of wood, cardboard, or other hard material, of sufficient thickness to
form a guide for the pencil or marker, and of a peculiar shape-that is to say—it
has two straight edges (hereinafter referred to as the "long arm" and "short arm
respectively) at right angles to one another, and one curvilinear edge having
reverse curves of varying radius comprising all the curves needed for drafting the
outline of any pattern. The straight edges are divided to suit any system of
measurement adopted, by scales annexed thereto, and provided with arbitrary
marks and divisions corresponding or bearing a certain relation to certain measure-
ments of the figure, and the curvilinear edge is also divided by scales and arbitrary
marks and divisions corresponding or bearing a certain relation to certain
measurements of the figure, whereby the curved lines of the pattern may be drawn
and their length determined. This apparatus is used in connection with an
appropriate system of measurement to which the different scales, with which both
sides of the apparatus is provided, correspond, and an appropriate system of drafting
the patterns in which the outlines and measurements of the scale co-operate to
determine the outlines of the patterns.
By means of this apparatusja saving of time, labor, and material, may be effected,
and a perfect fit obtained by a person practically unskilled in the art of dress
making.
In the accompanying drawings I have represented full size in Figures 1 and 2
the two opposite of this scale or chart showing its general outline or configuration,
and the various divisions and marks, upon it. The scale may be made of a thin
slip or blade of wood, or other suitable material, and have the various divisions,
marks, words, and letters, printed, painted, engraved, or otherwise marked thereon,
but preferably they are lithographed upon strips of paper which are cut out to the
proper shape and glued to the opposite sides of a plain slip of wood, or stout
cardboard, the paper being glazed or varnished to preserve it from being soiled and
otherwise injured by use.
The different series of divisions, graduations, numbers, and marks, which the
scale bears correspond to measurements taken in inches upon the person, the various
series of divisions being respectively appropriated to certain local measurements
and graduated accordingly. The following directions for use and the series of
diagrams therein referred to will sufficiently explain the mode of drafting a pattern
by the use of this instrument. The diagrams represent, in dotted lines, the
successive positions of the instrument, and in full lines the outline of the pattern
as it is progressively drafted by the aid of the scale and with reference to the
measures taken on the person.
Figure 3 illustrates how to take the measure on the person for which the
directions are as follows

page_text: move the scale to the right or left until the two dots come in line; place the scale
in the 6th position, then make a dot opposite the back bust measurement (36) and
draw a line from this dot to the back line.
Diagram 4. 7th position. To draw the "arms-eye" place the "arrow No 4" on
the bust dot, the arms-eye measurement coming on the point of the shoulder; this
is proof that the bust line is in the right place. Draw the curved line up to the
point of the shoulder.
"
Diagram 4. 8th position. To draw the waist line, place the corner of the scale at
the end of the back line, the "long arm' on the said line, and make a dot one-half
inch from the corner of the scale along the "short arm," then move the scale until
the corner touches last made dot. Make a dot opposite the waist measure-
ment (24), draw a line to the corner of the scale and then (9th position) draw
the spring of the Back line up to the point of intersection of the Back and Bust
lines.
Diagram 5. 10th position. Place "Arrow No 2" on the side waist dot at the end
of the line last drawn, then draw the curved line for under arm seam, up to the
Bust dot.
The shoulder seam (11th position) is drawn from the centre of the shoulder and
crosses the Waist line 1 inches from the spring of back; continue this line to
eight inches below waist line. If a curved line is preferred (as in Diagram 6)
make a dot in the centre of the "arms-eye," then place L (see front shoulder on
scale) on the last dot; draw a curved line to the junction of the shoulder and
waist lines; Then draw Back hip line from Spring of Back, to eight inches below
the Waist line; (12th position) there make 1st Hip dot. This line must be parallel
with the shoulder line.
"
Diagram No 6. 13th position. For the Back Hip, place "Arrow No 1
on the
first hip dot; then make a dot opposite the back hip measurement (40) move the
scale until the corner touches the first shoulder seam (see 14th position) and again
make a dot at the back hip measurement for the Under Arm Seam. Place "Arrow
No 5 on the last dot, and with the curved edge of the scale draw a curved line up
to the waist dot. Now draw a straight line from second hip dot up to 1/2 inch
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page_text: ARMS EYE
Place inside corner of scale on inch dot; on line C draw curved line to point of
shoulder. Turn the scale over, place arrow No 3 on the same dot, continue Arms
eye to under Arm line. Front and side dots, are made on Waist line, of an inch
on each side of line C. Draw straight lines to intersect lines C, and Bust line.
Front and side Hip dots are made 1 inch on each side of line C. 8 inches below
Waist line, place arrow No 5 on front hip dot, draw curved line up to Front dot on
waist line. Place arrow No 2 on side Hip dot, draw curved line up to side dot,
across Front line. Three inches from Front Hip dot, make a dot in line with
last two dots; place arrow No 5 on this dot, draw curved line to side Waist dot.
LINE TOP OF DARTS.
On line C make a dot 2 inches from Bust line. On Hem make another dot
4 inches from Bust line. Draw a line between these two dots. The Darts. - On
waist line 1 inches from Hem make a dot, then measure Waist line in back
drafting from Spring of back to Waist dot; add this to front Waist line by bringing
the scale over to side Waist dot (see first position of scale in diagram) measure
from this dot to side dot; slip the measure over to Front dot (thus subtracting the
Corset Dart), see second position. Now look along the scale, and make a dot at
1 half of waist measure-This dot is the place for the inside line of the first Dart.
The space between this dot and the inch and a half dot is the First Dart. The
waist measure being 24 inches, so only drafting half the body take 12 inches, one
half the waist measure. Make a dot in the centre of the Dart (exactly); draw a
straight line from the top line of the Darts through the centre, the length of
scale.
For a Medium Curve, place arrow No 2 on 14 inch dot, draw curve to intersect
Centre line, and line top of Darts; place arrow No. 5 on dot at half of waist
measure; draw curve line to top of Darts and centre line; draw the lines below the
waist with the straight edge of scale to intersect centre line 11 inches down. For
a full curved Dart, place arrow at back shoulder on the top of centre line, draw
curved line down to 1 inch dot, turn the scale over, and draw the other line in
the same way.
Leave inch space between the Darts; make the 2nd Dart the
same size on Waist line as the first, the centre is found and the lines are made
the same as the first Dart.
On Waist line 24 inches from Hem, make a dot. Make the Dart 2 inches
wide on Waist line. Make the Dart. The balance will be taken out in the
Corset Dart.
Measure line in Back Drafting from Spring of Back to Waist dot, then from side
waist dot to side dot. Move the measure over to Front Waist dot on Hem. (See
2nd position of scale in diagram.) Measure to the 24 inch dot; slip the measure
over the Dart (thus subtracting it.) Make a dot at one half of Waist measure;
draw front line from Front Hip dot up to dot at 1 half of Waist measure.
and side lines may be drawn as in diagram, or, to intersect the line C try to make
these lines as near the same length as possible.
Front
Having described the nature of the said Invention and the manner of performing
the same, I declare that what I claim as the Invention to be protected by the
hereinbefore in part recited Letters Patent is.
The herein described scale or chart of the form or configuration shown in the

page_text: drawings and bearing, scales, figures, letters, words, and other arbitrary signs or
marks, and its employment substantially in the manner described for drafting
patterns from measurements taken on the person, all as specified.
In witness whereof I the said William Tate Philpott have hereunto set my
hand and seal this fifteenth day of September, A.D. 1882.
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DUIT DOTT