Jmprovements in and Connected with Lace Cupping machines
Year: 1885

page_text: [Communicated from abroad by Charles Henry Willcox, of New York City, in the
County and State of New York, United States of America, Sewing Machine
Manufacturer.]
Jmprovements in and Connected with Lace Cupping machines..
I JOHN HENRY JOHNSON of 47 Lincolns Inn Fields in the County of Middlesex.
Gentleman do hereby declare the nature of said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
AND CONNECTED WITH LACE CLIPPING MACHINES " which Invention has been
communicated to me from abroad by Charles Henry Willcox of New York City in
the County and State of New York, United States of America Sewing Machine
Manufacturer, to be as follows:-
This Invention relates to machinery for removing from bobbinet or similar fabric,
the loose threads (called floating threads, floats, or clips) which connect the figures
of the lace with one another.
The
Heretofore different forms of machines have been devised for that purpose.
present invention is more particularly designed as an improvement on that form in
which movable pickers enter between the loose threads and the body of the fabric,
lift the same and cut it with the aid of a stationary cooperating blade; and in which
additional cutting mechanism afterwards moves off the threads close to the body of
the fabric, said threads being caused to stand out from the fabric by bending the
latter around the edge of a plate or bar.
i
Heretofore the pickers have been given a movement directly at right angles to
the movement of the fabric. In many kinds or figures of lace (bobbinet) the
loose threads run in such a way that the pickers acting directly across the fabric
could hardly enter under them, and thus they would be apt to escape cutting.
In the present invention one or more series of pickers are disposed more or less
obliquely so as to move in planes more or less oblique to the movement of the
fabric.
Also in order to clip properly lace with the loose or floating threads running in
a variety of directions two or more series of pickers arranged at different angles
are employed so that one or more series of pickers will act at right angles, or

page_text: approximately at right angles, to every loose thread, no matter what its direction
may be.
A difficulty similar to that of cutting the thread by the pickers when they lie
at different angles on the fabric, is encountered in mowing off the threads when cut.
To overcome this difficulty mechanism comprising cutters and throat plat-s for
moving off the cut threads is arranged obliquely to the movement of the fabric,
which movement is altered or changed in direction as the fabric passes around the
edge of the obliquely disposed throat plate Also for clipping lace whereon the
loose threads run in a number of different directions two or more mowing
mechanisms are employed they being arranged at an angle one to the other, so
that one or another of the edges over which the lace or fabric is drawn will be at
right angles or nearly at right angles to every thread no matter what its direction
on the lace may be The mowing off of all the threads will thus be secured.
The pickers in order to lift the threads press down the body of the lace into slots
or grooves To supply loose lace which can be taken in without injuriously
stretching the fabric a take-up is provided consisting of a bar operated at proper
intervals so as to draw in or take up a certain quantity of lace when the pickers
are out of action and to release the fabric thus drawn in when the pickers descend
and force the fabric into the grooves It is found desirable to use continuously
instead of intermittently acting feed rolls. When however the pickers are acting
on the fabric the feed of the fabric is necessarily stopped To supply the lace to the
feed rolls at this time so that they will not stretch the fabric, a take up (similar to
the one before referred to) is provided.
In order to feed the lace through the machine two sets of feed rolls are employer,
one set just after the pickers, and another set after the mowing mechanism. In
order that the latter set may not only feed the fabric but also keep it taut in
passing through the mowing mechanism these rolls are driven at a slightly greater
surface speed than those of the first set and that they may not tear but only keep
tight the lace they are driven by means of friction (adjustable to produce more or
less tension on the fabric) so that when the lace is properly stretched the parts in
frictional contact will slip. It is preferred to connect the driving shaft of the two
pairs of rolls with each other so as to revolve them in equal times and to secure
the differential action by making the driving roll in one set larger than in the other
so as to have a correspondingly greater surface speed This larger roll is preferably
made of a sleeve journalled on the driving shaft and connected there with by friction
plugs set in radial holes, which plugs are pressed against the shaft by screws tapped
into the outer ends of the holes.
The present invention also comprises new mechanism for supporting and operating
the pickers Heretofore these were secured to a stationary support and operated
independently. In the present invention a series of pickers are fastened to a
common support and the proper motions are given to this support so that the series
of pickers are operated simultaneously by one mechanism. This common support
is preferably an arin attached at the end to a slide and overhanging the grooved
lace plate over which the lace or fabric is drawn. The slide or slides (for preferably
there are a number of slides each having its own series of pickers) are mounted in
ways on a moveable bed which is given a vertical movement of reciprocation by
eccentrics and links, the slides being reciprocated on the bed by means of a wrist
plate or wrist plates connected by links with the slides and by another link or
links with an eccentric or eccentrics for vibrating the wrist plate or wrist plates
The eccentrics are so arranged that the pickers have a movement downward to push
the body of the lace into the groove, causing the loose threads to buckle up, then
outward to insert their lifting fingers under the loose threads, then upward,
then inward into position for a new operation-The lifting fingers are provided
with a cutting edge on top, so that as the pickers are lifted the loose threads are cut.
To assist in cutting the threads a stationary blade is placed above the fabric to
cooperate with the cutting pickers giving the action of shears.

page_text: In the present invention a single stationary blade having the cutting edge at the
Lottom is placed alongside a series of cutting pickers instead of having a separate
stationary blade for each picker The stationary blades (for several are employed
cach cooperating with a series of pickers) are fastened to blocks or brackets on the
picker frame at the side of the lace plate which they overhang,
In the improved machine made according to the present invention enough
pickers are employed to cover every part of the fabric as it passes by, and they are
arranged so as to lift and cut every thread. The feed is slow so that each picker
has a fair chance of entering under every uncut thread which comes within its
reach-Six slides each carrying a double row of pickers the pickers in each single
row being opposite the spaces between pickers of the adjacent row and being in
line with one another, so that the heel of one picker acts as a guard to the point
of the picker behind, are preferably employed The slides are arranged in pairs,
one slide on each side of the centre line of the lace which slides are moved simul-
taneously in opposite directions horizontally, the lifting fingers on the two slides of
a pair pointing in opposite directions, that is to say, toward the edge of the lace.
As the mesh of the lace as well as the length of the loose threads is different in
different figures of lace, it is desirable to have the pickers with lifting fingers of
different width.
The means for holding the pickers are such that one size of picker can be
substituted for another-the shanks which fit in the sockets of the overhanging
arms being of the same size-Each picker consists preferably of a shank, an elastic
and flexible middle portion, and a lifting finger provided with a cutting edge-
Each double row of spring pickers is enclosed between a pair of stationary blades,
the elasticity of the middle portion of each picker holding the cutting edge against
that of the stationary blade.
The pressure due to this elasticity being in the opposite direction in one row
from what it is in the other, the side pressure upon the support or overhanging
arm is balanced and therefore practically climinated.
In the mowing mechanism the throat plate is movable towards and away from
the mowing cutters (composed of a stationary or ledger blade and a rotary cutter,
the latter composed of a cylinder with a number of blades set spirally therein) in
order to facilitate the insertion of the lace in the machine. The throat plate is
also adjustable towards and away from the mowing cutter in order to regulate the
closeness of the cut to the surface of the lace-The stationary blades of the mowing
mechanism are adjustable.
Mechanism is provided for separating and holding apart the feed rolls for readily
introducing the fabric. That for separating one set of feed rolls is connected with
that for moving away one of the throat plates.
In order to stitch together different lengths of lace so that one will draw the
succeeding one into the clipping machine, a Sewing machine is supported in slides
on the front of the clipping machine frame and it is so constructed and arranged
that it can be fed across the lace (whose ends are overlapped) to stitch the two
layers together.
The feeding is in the direction of the gooseneck and needle lever of the sewing
machine, whose length equals the width of the lace to be united, or is sufficient to
allow the sewing machine to act over the whole width. The shaft of the sewing
machine is formed of a sleeve and a core, connected by a spline and groove, the
sleeve being journaled in the sliding frame of the sewing machine and carrying the
loop and eccentric for operating the needle bar, while the core is journaled in
bearings of the clipping machine frame and is revolved by a suitable belt on a
pulley fixed on said core The sleeve is screw-threaded on the outside and engages
a stationary nut, so that as the sleeve revolves to form the stitches it also feeds
along the whole machine by its engagement with the stationary nut When the
sewing machine has finished its traverse the nut is opened and the machine run
5

page_text: back by hand A slotted plate forms the throat plate of the sewing machine the
slot being the full length of the traverse of the machine.
Pedals and connected mechanism are provided for stopping and starting the
clipping machine also for stopping and starting the sewing machine The latter is
driven from a loose pulley on to which the belt for driving the clipping machine is
shipped when said machine is to be stopped, so that the sewing machine can never
be brought into action, while the clipping machine is in motion.
In the clipping machine there is an adjustable guide piece for keeping the lace
in line as it is drawn from one oblique throat plate to the other.

page_text: I JOHN HENRY JOHNSON of 47 Lincoln's Inn Fields in the County of Middlesex
Gentleman do hereby declare the nature of this Invention which has been com-
municated to nic from abroad by Charles Henry Willcox of New York City in
the County and State of New York United States of America Sewing Machine
Manufacturer and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
This Invention relates to machinery for removing from Machine lace or figured
bobbinet or similar fabric the loose threads (called floating threads floats or clips)
which connect the figures of the Lace Heretofore different forms of machines have
been devised for that purpose. The present Invention is more particularly designed
as an improvement upon that form in which moveable pickers enter between the
loose threads and the body of the fabric, lift the same and cut it with the aid of
a stationary co-operating blade and in which additional cutting mechanism after-
wards mows off the threads close to the body of the fabric said threads being
caused to stand out from the fabric by bending the latter around the edge of a plate
or bar.
Heretofore the pickers have been given a movement directly at right angles to
the movement of the fabric. In many kinds or figures of lace (bobbinet) the loose
threads run in such a way that the pickers acting directly across the fabric could
hardly enter under them, and thus they would be apt to escape cutting.
In the present invention one or more series of pickers are disposed more or less
obliquely so as to move in planes more or less oblique to the movement of the
fabric. Also in order to clip properly, lace with the loose or floating threads running
in a variety of directions, two or more series of pickers arranged at different angles
are employed so that one or more series of pickers will act at right angles or
approximately at right angles, to every loose thread, no matter what its direction
may be.
A difficulty similar to that of cutting the thread by the pickers when they lie at
different angles on the fabric, is encountered in mowing off the threads when cut.
To overcome this difficulty, mechanism comprising cutters and throat plates for
mowing off the cut threads, is arranged obliquely to the movement of the fabric,
which movement is altered or changed in direction as the fabric passes around the
edge of the obliquely disposed throat plate. Also for clipping lace whereon the
loose threads run in a number of different directions, two or more mowing
mechanisms are employed, they being arranged at an angle one to the other, so
that one or another of the edges over which the lace or fabric is drawn will be at
right angles, or nearly at right angles to every thread, no matter what its direction
on the lace may be. The mowing off of all the threads will thus be secured.
The pickers, in order to lift the threads, press down the body of the lace into
slots or grooves. To supply loose lace which can be taken in without injuriously
stretching the fabric, a take up is provided, consisting of a bar or roller operated at
proper intervals so as to draw in or take up a certain quantity of lace when the
pickers are out of action and to release the fabric thus drawn in when the pickers
descend and force the fabric into the grooves. It is found desirable to use
-continuously, instead of intermittently acting feed rolls. When however, the
pickers are acting on the fabric the feed of the fabric is necessarily stopped. To

page_text: supply the lace to the feed rolls at this time so that they will not stretch the fabric,
a take up (similar to the one before referred to) is provided for supplying fabric to
the rolls at this time.
In order to feed the lace through the machine two sets of feed rolls are employed,
one set just after the pickers first or cross mowing mechanism, and another set after
the diagonal mowing mechanism. In order that the latter set may not only feed
the fabric, but also keep it taut in passing through the mowing mechanism, these
rolls are driven at a slightly greater speed than those of the first set, and that they
may not tear, but only keep tight the lace, they are driven by means of friction
(adjustable to produce more or less tenison on the fabric) so that when the lace is
properly stretched, the parts in frictional contact will slip. It is preferred to
connect the driving shaft of the two pairs of rolls with each other, so as to revolve
in equal times, and to secure the differential action, by making the driving roll in
one set larger than in the other, so as to have a correspondingly greater surface
speed. This larger roll is preferably made of a sleeve journaled on the driving
shaft, and connected therewith by friction plugs, set in radial holes, which plugs are
pressed against the shaft by screws tapped into the outer ends of the holes.
The present invention also comprises new mechanism for supporting and operating
the pickers. Heretofore these were secured to a stationary support and operated
independently.
In the present invention a series of pickers are fastened to a common support,
and the proper motions are given to this support so that the series of pickers are
operated simultaneously by one mechanism. This common support is preferably
an arm attached at the end to a slide, and over hanging the grooved lace plate, over
which the lace or fabric is drawn. The slide or slides (for preferably there are
a number of slides, each having its own series of pickers) are mounted on ways in
a moveable bed, which is given a vertical movement of reciprocation by eccentries
and links, the slides being reciprocated on the bed by means of a wrist plate or
wrist plates connected by links with the slides, and by another link or links with
an eccentric or eccentrics for vibrating the wrist plate or wrist plates. The
eccentrics are so arranged that the pickers have a movement downward to push
the body of the lace into the groove, causing the loose threads to buckle up, then
outward to insert their lifting fingers under the loose threads, then upward, then
inward into position for a new operation. The lifting fingers are provided with
a cutting edge on top, so that as the pickers are lifted the loose threads are cut.
To assist in cutting the threads a stationary blade is placed above the fabric to
cooperate with the cutting pickers, giving the action of shears.
In the present invention a single stationary blade, having the cutting edge at the
bottom, is placed alongside a series of cutting pickers, instead of having a separate
stationary blade for each picker. The stationary blades (for several are employed
each co-operating with a series of pickers) are fastened to blocks or brackets in the
picker frame at the side of the lace plate which they overhang.
In the improved machine made according to the present invention enough pickers
are employed to cover every part of the fabric as it passes by, and they are arranged
so as to lift and cut every thread. The feed is slow so that each picker has a fair
chance of entering under every uncut thread which comes within its reach. Six
slides each carrying a double row of pickers, the pickers in each single row being
opposite the spaces between pickers of the adjacent row, and being in line with
one another so that the heel of one picker acts as a guard to the point of the picker
behind are preferably employed. The slides are arranged in pairs, one slide on
each side of the centre line of the lace which slides are moved simultaneously in
opposite directions, the lifting fingers on the two slides of a pair pointing in
opposite directions, that is to say toward the edge of the lace. As the mesh of the
lace as well as the length of the loose threads are different in different figures of
lace, it is desirable to have the pickers with lifting fingers of different width.
The means for holding the pickers are so arranged that one size of picker can
be substituted for another, the shanks which fit in the sockets of the overhanging

page_text: rms being of the same size. Each picker consists preferably of a shank, an elastic
nd flexible middle portion, and a lifting finger provided with a cutting edge.
Cach double row of spring pickers is enclosed between a pair of stationary blades,
he elasticity of the middle portion of each picker holding the cutting edge against
hat of the stationary blade. The pressure due to this elasticity being in the
pposite direction in one row from what it is in the other, the side pressure upon
he support or overhanging arm is balanced and therefore practically eliminated.
In the mowing mechanism the throat plate is moveable towards and away from
he moving cutters (composed of a stationary or ledger blade and a rotary cutter
he latter composed of a cylinder with a number of blades set spirally therein) in
order to facilitate the insertion of the lace in the machine. The throat plate is also
adjustable towards and away from the mowing cutter in order to regulate the
closeness of the cut to the surface of the lace. The stationary blades of the
mowing mechanism are adjustable, mechanism is provided for separating and
holding apart the feed rolls for readily introducing the fabric. That for separating
one set of feed rolls is connected with that for moving away one of the throat
plates.
In order to stitch together different lengths of lace so that one will draw the
succeeding one into the clipping machine, a sewing machine is supported in slides
on the front of the clipping machine frame, and it is so constructed and arranged
that it can be fed across the lace (whose ends are overlapped) to stitch the two
layers together.
The feeding is in the direction of the goose neck and needle lever of the sewing
machine, whose length equals the width of the lace to be united or is sufficient to
allow the sewing machine to act over the whole width. The shaft of the sewing
machine is formed of a sleeve and a core connected by a spline and groove, the
sleeve being journaled in the sliding frame of the sewing machine and carrying
the looper and eccentric for operating the needle bar, while the core is journaled
in bearings of the clipping machine frame and is revolved by a suitable belt on a
pulley fixed on said core. The sleeve is screw threaded on the outside and engages
a stationary nut, so that as the sleeve revolves to form the stitches, it also feeds
along the whole machine by its engagement with the stationary nut. When the
sewing machine has finished its traverse the nut is opened and the machine run
back by hand. A slotted plate forms the throat plate of the sewing machine the
slot being the full length of the traverse of the machine.
Pedals and connected mechanism are provided for stopping and starting the
clipping machine, also for stopping and starting the sewing machine. The latter.
is driven from a loose pulley on to which the belt for driving the clipping machine
is shipped when said machine is to be stopped, so that the sewing machine can
never be brought into action while the clipping machine is in motion.
In the clipping machine there is an adjustable guide piece for keeping the lace
in line as it is drawn from one oblique throat plate to the other.
The accompanying drawings which form a part of this specification represent a
lace clipping machine constructed in accordance with the invention.. Figure 1 is a
view in side elevation of the whole machine, Figure 2 a front view of the same
Figure 3 a plan of the same; Figure 4 a plan showing the picker frame and picker
slides with certain connected parts; Figure 5 a vertical section through the axis
of the shaft t' (Figure 4) some parts being represented in elevation and two of the
picker slides through which the plane of section passes being omitted, Figure 6 a
plan partly in horizontal section and Figure 7 a sectional elevation, illustrating
the arrangement of the pickers and stationary blade with certain other parts of
the picker mechanism, Figure 8 a central vertical section (partly in elevation)
through the picker mechanism transverse to the shaft t (Figure 4) simplified by
the omission of certain parts through which the section passes Figures 9. 10 and 11
5 views in cross section through the throat plates and cutters for mowing off the
loose threads after they have been cut Figure 12 a plan partly in horizontal
section of one set of the feed rolls Figure 13 a sectional elevation illustrating an
"

page_text: adjustable guide piece over which the lace passes between two of the mowin
cutters Figures 14 and 15 detail views illustrating the shape of the pickers th
mcde of fastening them in their support and the relative arrangement of th
pickers and stationary blades, Figures 16. 17 and 18 views illustrating a modifie
arrangement of the pickers, Figure 19 a section in the plane of Figure
shewing parts not represented therein and omitting many of those which are ther
shewn, Figure 20 a detail view in section on line 122-123 Figures 3 and
shewing the node of securing the pickers in the oblique rows, and also the obliqu
stationary blades to their respective supports Figures 21. 22. 23. 24 and 25 detai
views of the mowing and feeding mechanism Figures 26 27. 28. 29 and 30 detai
views of the sewing machine. Figures 31. 32. 33 and 34 views illustrating a
second modification in the arrangement of the pickers which in some respects is
preferable to that shown in Figures 1-5.
The bed plate D upon which the feeding and lace clipping mechanism is placed
is supported by the side frames A. These frames are connected by the cross
frame B and the arm or bracket C which is fastened at the bottom to the cross
frame B and supports the rear end of the frame D. The side frames A are also
connected by the tie bars o 1.
The shaft p is journaled in the side frames. It is revolved by a driving belt on
the fast pulley c.
The belt can be shifted on to the loose pulley C* when the
machine is to be stopped. The belt shipper may be of any ordinary construction
As shewn it consists of a shipper bar e which slides upon the tie bar and is
prevented from turning by the arm k which encircles and slides upon the tie bar o.
The treadle which is supported by and turns upon the tie bar is connected
by a wire with the bell crank w supported and turning on the pin 100* which
is tapped into the hub 100 fixed on the bar q. The shipper bar is connected by
the wire 102 with the bell crank w and is drawn in the direction to start the
machine (to the left in Figure 2) when the treadle v is depressed. When the
treadle v is released the spring moves the shipper bar e to the right to change
the belt from the fast pulley c to the loose pulley c*.
From the pulleys S f f and n which are fast on the shaft p motion is conveyed
by belts to the mechanism for feeding and clipping the lace. The picker frame E
is set in a square opening in the bed plate D shewn in dotted lines Figure 3 (sec
also Figures 1, 7 and 8) It is supported by its edges which overlap the bed
plate D to which it is screwed fast.
The picker frame itself has a central opening (see Figures 4 and 5) The lace
plate K (Figures 6. 7 and 8) rests upon and is supported by the parts 3 of the
picker frame at the edges of the central opening. It fits between the ribs 4
and is fastened in place by screws.
The lace plate K is not perforated but it is provided on its upper surface with
numerous grooves 5. Below the lace plate is the moveable bed ?. It has lugs G
(two of them at the bottom of the hangers * making part of the moveable bed)
by which lugs it is rigidly fastened to the sliding bars moveable vertically in
the tubular bearings 7 making part of the picker frame E.
The moveable bed r is supported by the links s from the cross shaft t¹ journaled 4
in the bearings 9 on the picker frame E.
The links encircle at the top the eccentrics 10, fast on the shaft t¹ and at the
bottom they encircle the bart supported by the eccentric ends 11. (shewn in dotted
lines in Figures 5 and 8) which are held in bearings in the hangers * with
sufficient friction to prevent accidental turning of said bar.
5
The shaft this revolved continuously while the machine is in motion by means
of a belt 12 Letween the pulley S fast on the shaft p and the pulley U fast on
shaft t. A rise and fall or complete vertical reciprocation is given to the moveable
bed rat each revolution of shaft t¹ through the eccentrics 10 and links s.
The
position of the bed can be adjusted vertically without altering the reciprocation 5
by turning the bart the effect being due to the eccentricity of the ends 11.

page_text: On the opposite end of the shaft t¹ is a disk U¹ weighted on one side to balance
the reciprocation of bed 7 through eccentrics 10.
The slides I and I' which carry the pickers G G are supported on the bedr
being moveable in ways thereon. The dovetail tongue 14 (Figures 5 and 7) on
the bottom of each slide fits between the guide pieces 12 which are fastened to the
bed by screws 13 which are inserted through slots in the overlying portion of the
slide (see Figure 4).
The two slides I' are moveable directly across the machine while four slides I
move in ways obliquely disposed.
The two slides I are connected by the links with the wrist plate D". The
four slides I are similarly connected with the wrist plate D₁ The wrist plate Du
is supported (see Figure 8) by the hanger h" fastened beneath the bed the
upright journals turning one in said hanger the other in a bushing 15, set in a
hole in the bed r The wrist plate D' is similarly supported by the hanger and
bushing 16. Each link is connected with the corresponding slide (I or I')
by a journal pin 17 in the end of the link the same being tapped into the bottom
of the slide and passing through a slot 18 in the bed 1.
The connection with the wrist plate is made by a journal pin 19 in the other
end of the link ¹ said pin being fixed in the wrist plate. The wrist plates D' D₁₁
are vibrated by the ball eccentrics g' which are preferably made in one piece as
shewn in Figure 5 and which are fastened on the shaft Retaining disks f" fi
are fixed on the shaft t' outside the eccentrics. The motion is conveyed to the
wrist plates D' D" by the links el el respectively whose inner end encircles the
eccentric g' and whose outer end engages the ball 21 on the pin 20 which latter is
tapped into the hub of the wrist plate.
The slides II are thus reciprocated simultaneously and continuously. Each of
the slides at the end farthest removed from the wrist plate has a standard made
integral therewith and therefore lettered the same as the slide which standard
projects through an opening in the top of the picker frame E. To the standards
of the two slides 1' the arms C¹ (Figure 7) are bolted.
The pickers G whose shape is shewn in Figures 14 and 15 are set in sockets in
the sides of the overhanging arm C¹ fastened at its outer end by screws to the
standard on the corresponding slide I' (see Figure 7) There are two rows of
pickers, one on each side of the overhanging arm C the pickers in one row being
placed opposite the spaces in the other row (see Figure 6).
They are held in their sockets by plates 22 and are held down by the top
plate 23 fastened by screws to the arm C¹. By removing the top plate ono or all
of the pickers can be drawn out.
At their lower ends the pickers have each a horizontal lifting finger which in
action enters under the loose threads on the lace as shewn in Figures 14 and 15.
For different styles of lace these lifting fingers are made of different widths, thus
where the lace is of a large mesh, pickers with wider fingers are used. They
should not be so small as to pass through the meshes of the ground fabric nor so
wide as not to enter the space under the loose threads.
The bottom of the pickers is rounded so that they will be less likely to catch in
the body of the lace. Each picker also acts as a guard to the one behind it by
holding down the lace in front of the picker point. A dummy j" is placed as a
guard at the end of the row to prevent the lace turning up and catching on the
point of the last picker.
The picker points are preferably turned outward those in the two slides I'
pointing in opposite directions. Under each row of pickers one of the grooves 5
in the lace plate.
Each horizontal lifting finger is sharpened on top to form a cutting edge on one
side The picker is thus also a cutter. In order to insert the lifting fingers under
the loose threads on the lace, the pickers are given a back and forth movement
lengthwise of the lifting finger in consequence of the reciprocation of the slides I¹
on the bed r and also a rising and falling motion in consequence of the rising and

page_text: falling of the said slides 11 with the said bedr The two movements are so timed
that first the pickers are brought down depressing the lace into the grooves 5
causing the loose threads to buckle up between the pickers, secondly they are
moved outward to insert the lifting fingers under the loose threads, thirdly they
are raised cutting the loose threads under which the lifting fingers have been
inserted and lastly they are moved inwards to their first position.
The action of the pickers (i in cutting the loose threads is assisted by stationary
blades B' of which there is one to each single row of pickers. They are sharpened
on the bottom and in connection with the cutting pickers form shears there being
of course as many pairs of shears or scissors as there are pickers. Thus the loose
threads are cut without drawing at all on the fabric as would be the case if the
pickers were made to act like a knife To further assist the action of the cutters
(i.e. the pickers and the stationary blades) the pickers are made thin between the
lifting fingers and the shanks which are held in the overhanging arm so as to be
elastic and slightly flexible When the stationary blades are in place the, lower
ends of the pickers are forced in slightly and the elasticity of the pickers then
presses their lower ends against the stationary blades The stationary blades are
preferably placed on opposite sides of the double row of pickers as shown so that
the pressure of the pickers on one side of the arm C¹ opposes and neutralises that
of the pickers on the other side. The stationary blades B¹ are fastened at their
outer ends to the blocks 25 by horizontal screws 24 which pass through ono blade
and also through the block and are tapped into the blades on the opposite sido
(see Figure 6) The blocks 25 are screwed fast to the picker frame E. Each pair
of blades at the ends farthest removed from the blocks 25 are fastened together
by screws 26. 27 respectively, a sleeve 28 and the end of the bridge 20 being
interposed. The bridge 29 is at the opposite end screwed fast to the picker frame.
It is also fastened by screw 30 to one of the blades B whose ends are connected
by the screw 26.
The pickers G which are carried by the obliquely disposed slides I are the same
as the pickers G and are similarly placed between stationary blades A¹. Instead
of having the pickers G¹ in one long double row like the pickers G which would
be inconvenient in some respects although entirely practicable and is illustrated in
Figure 32 they are preferably arranged in a number of short double rows as
shown each single row terminating in a dummy " The pickers are supported
by plates F (Figures 3 and 20) which are bolted to the standard on the corre-
sponding slide I (Figures 4. 5 and 6) The pickers G¹ of each double row are held
in sockets in arms C₁ by face plates precisely as described for the pickers G with
reference to figures 14 and 15 and they are similarly held down by top plates 23.
The arms Care screwed fast to the corresponding plate F. The stationary
blades A are fastened to bosses 31 on the underside of the bridge plate H by
horizontal screws 24, the same as the blades B₁ are fastened to the blocks 25.
The holes through which these screws 24 pass may be larger than the screws (as
shewn in Figure 20) to allow a vertical adjustment of the stationary blades to
take up wear. The bridge plates H. are fastened at the ends by screws to scats
on the picker frame E.
In front of the first row of pickers is a smoothing roller y having bearings in
the pieces 32. provided with cylindrical shanks, which arc inserted loosely in
holes 33 in the picker frame.
Between the oblique sets of pickers is placed a roller a¹ (see Figure 6 and 19)
whose journals turn in the upper ends of the links v¹, which pass through holes
in the picker frame, and at their lower ends (see Figure 19) are connected through
the cross bar u with arms s¹ of the rock shaft p¹. This rock shaft p¹ is journaled
in earings fixed on the picker frame E and is vibrated by the eccentric q' on the
shaft through the forked arm kell.
There is a groove 36 across the lace plate under the roller a'. The eccentric q'
depresses the roller a¹ when the pickers G G¹, are raised, thus drawing down the
lace into the groove 36,
As they descend the roller a³ is raised leaving the lace

page_text: without danger of
njuriously stretching the fabric. Back of all the pickers there is a roller z
ournaled in the arms m¹¹ of rock shaft o' which is vibrated by the eccentric ¿¹ on
shaft through the forked arm . The arms m" pass through slots 37 in the
picker bed. The roller z has a similar action to that of roller a' just described.
They take up more or less fabric at one time (when the pickers are raised,) and
give it out at another (when the pickers are down).¸
oose so as to be forced by the pickers G G¹, into the grooves
The throat plate a", which is about on a level with the lace plate K (see
Figure 11), is supported at the ends by blocks 40 (Figures 3, 21 and 24) on the
bed plate D. Below the throat plate a" are rubber covered feed rollers Y Y'
The roller Y is held against the other by yielding pressure. It is journaled at
cach end in a box 41 pressed forward by the spring 42, (shewn as a spiral com-
pression spring interposed between the box 41 and the offset 43 of the bed
plate D). The feed roll Y¹ is journaled in stationary bearings and is revolved by
the belt on cone pulley d, at the right of Figures 2, 3 and 12. This pulley is fast
on the shaft 48 of feed roll Z, which shaft turns in stationary bearings and is
fastened to the shaft 49 of feed roll Y₁ by means of a clutch or connector 44 of
ordinary construction. The only reason for using the clutch is facility of manu-
facture, it being easier to make, and to place in position, two short shafts than one
long one.
Motion is conveyed to the pulley d from the pulley n on shaft p, through tho
crossed belt 45 extending from the pulley n to the largest part of pulley T. which
pulley turns on a stud fastened inside of one of the side frames A, and the crossed
belt 46, extending from the smaller coned part of pulley T to the pulley d. The
effect of the different sizes of these pulleys is to make the shafts of the feed rolls
move very much slower than the shaft p.
The lace to be clipped is passed under the pressure y under the pickers G under
the first half of the obliquely disposed pickers G₁ under the take up roller a¹,
under the second half of the obliquely disposed pickers G₁ under the take up
rollers z, around the rear edge of throat plate a¹¹, and thence between the feed
rolls Y Y. The feed rolls draw the lace through the machine. They act con-
stopped.
tinuously. When however, the pickers are down the feed of the lace
A part of the lace which has been taken up by the roller is then delivered to
the feed rolls and prevents the letter from injuriously stretching the fabric As
the lace passes around the edge of throat plate all, the loose threads which have
been cut by the pickers, are mowed off by the action of the rotary cutter X,
which co-operates with a stationary cutting blade f*. The rotary cutter consists
of a cylinder set around with a series of obliquely disposed cutting blades as
common in many classes of machinery. Its shaft is journaled in stationary bearing
blocks 40 on the bed D. It is revolved by belt 161 on pulley V. The stationary
cutting blade f* is fastened to a bridge b by means of screws 50 passing through
slots in the blade and tapped into the bridge. The bridge b is itself fastened by
screws 605 (Figure 21) to the blocks 40, the screws passing through horizontal
slots which permit it to be adjusted nearer the axis of the rotary cutter X in order
to compensate for wear of the rotary blades. The adjustment is rendered more
exact by means of set screws 777, tapped through a part of the blocks 40 and
bearing at the end against the edge of the bridge b. The throat plate all is also
adjustable towards and away from the rotary cutter X. Its ends instead of being
screwed fast play through slots 52 at the upper end of the blocks 40, and each end
is connected outside the blocks by a journal pin with the link 54, whose rear end
is jointed to a lever arm M, and 55 respectively (see Figures 3 and 24) at opposite
ends of a rock shaft 56, which latter turns in bearings of the blocks 40.
spring 57, fastened at one end to one of the blocks 40, bears at its free end
against the link 54, and produces sufficient friction to retain the throat plate in the
5 position to which it may be adjusted. The lever arm M projects above the rotary
cutter (see Figure 1) and terminates in a handle for turning the same.
A leaf

page_text: To prevent the throat plate being moved too close to the rotary cutter X, a screw
stop 58 is placed behind the lever arm M. By adjusting the screw stop the forward
position of the throat plate can be regulated. In inserting the lace the throat
plate is moved as far as possible from the cutters. In order that the same move-
ment of the lever arms M and 55 may also hold apart the feed rolls Y Y¹, each of
the links 54 has a toe 59, which extends behind the journal 60 so of the feed roll Y,
said journal projecting through the box 41. A catch 160, hinged to one of the
blocks 40 is turned up as shewn in Figure 1 to engage the toe 59 of the link for
that side of the machine, when it is desired to hold back the feed roll Y.
It is evident that when the lever arm M is forward (to the right Figure 1) the
throat plate a is moved away from the cutters and the feed roll Y is separated
from its companion roll Y¹ so that it is easy to insert the lace properly. On
drawing back the lever arm the springs 42 return the sliding boxés 41 and the
feed roll Y, and the links 54 draw back the throat plate all until the movement is
arrested by the stop 58.
Behind the mechanism just described for mowing off the loose threads, which
have been previously cut by the pickers, is a similar mechanism obliquely disposed.
The throat plate b¹ (Figure 9) around which the lace is bent, is fastened to the
bed plate D by the screws 61 (Figure 3 and 22) which pass through slots 62 in
the throat plate b₁, and are tapped into the bed plate D. At each end the throat
plate is connected by a journal pin with a link 63, jointed to a lover arm N and 64
respectively of the rock shaft 65. The spring 66, pressing against the lever arm N,
retains the parts in whatever position they may be placed, while the screw stop 67
limits their movement in the direction for bringing the throat plate 6' towards the
rotary cutter Q. This cutter whose axis is parallel to the edge of the throat
plate 6 turns in stationary bearings, being revolved by the belt 08 (see Figure 1)
between the pulley R on the end of the cutters shaft, and the pulley f on the shaft p.
The Stationary cutter blade m¹ is adjustably fastened to the bridge d by screws 70,
passing through slots in said blade, and the bridge is adjustably fastened to the
blocks 69 on the underside of the bed plate by the screws 71, the adjustinent being
made more exact by the screws 776. To the right (Figure 3) of the rotary cutter,
Qis a similar rotary cutter Q journaled in stationary bearings and operated by
a crossed belt 73 between pulley f¹ on shaft p and pulley R₁ on the shaft of
cutter Q'.
The stationary cutting blade c¹ (Figures 3, 10 and 23) is adjustably fastened to
the bridge d' by screws 74, and the bridge is adjustably fastened to the blocks 75, by
the screws 76. Screws 77 tapped through lugs 78 of the blocks 75 bear at the point
against the rear edge of the bridge and enable a nicer adjustment to be effected.
The throat plate c¹ is attached to the bed plate and is adjusted by means
identical with those described for fastening and adjusting the throat band which
are similarly numbered or lettered except the operating lever which is lettered N*
instead of N.
Between the two obliquely arranged cutting mechanisms, is a guide piece gl
(see Figure 13). A spiral tension spring connected at the top with the stationary
pin 80, supports the guide piece. There is a groove 81 in the bottom of the bed 4
plate D, just over the guide piece, equal in width to the thickness of its upper
edge.
In this upper edge there are notches 82 near the ends of the guide piece.
Screws 83 are tapped through the bed plate so that their lower ends project into
the groove 81. The notches 82 engage the ends of the screws 83 whenever the 5
corresponding end of the guide piece rises. P is a segment of a ring held between
and guided by the side plates 84, which are bolted to the bed plate D. Tongues
on the sides of the segments fit into grooves in the side plates. A screw 85 is
tapped into each end of the segment and when the latter is turned the end of the
screw enters a groove 86* in the upper edge of the guide piece g". Whenever the 5
segment P is turned to the right (as shewn in Figure 13) it depresses the right
end of the guide picce; when it is turned in the opposite direction it allows the

page_text: right hand end of the guide piece to rise until it enters the groove 81 and makes
contact with the bed plate (the notch S2 at that end engaging the screw 83.
When, however, the seginent is turned still further to the left it depresses the left
hand end of the guide piece.
The segment P is connected by the rod O with the lever L, by which it can be
turned to any desired position. It is preferred to retain the parts in the position
to which they may be adjusted by friction. The object of the guide g¹¹ is to keep
the lace in proper position between the throat plates b' c¹. If it tends to slide
towards either end of the throat plates, the tendency can be corrected by adjusting
the guide g in the proper direction.
The lace to be clipped after passing between the feed rolls Y Y' is carried over
and around the throat plate b¹ (see Figures 3 and 9) then across and under the
guide g to and around the throat plate c¹ (Figure 10) and thence over the feed
roll Z, between it and the corresponding feed roll Z¹.
The course is represented in Figure 3 by the dotted lines 042 and 643 which
represent the two edges of the strip of lace.
In passing over the throat plates 6' and c¹ the lace is folded obliquely, the fold
lying of course in the direction of the edge of the throat plate. The feed roll Z₁
is mounted in sliding boxes 410 held in place by springs 125 the same as before
described with reference to the feed roll Y. It can be moved away from the feed
roll Z, by means of the lever arms 86 and 87 connected by a rock shaft 88
(Figures 12 and 25) and arranged just behind the projecting journals of the feed
roll Z¹. A catch 89 pivoted at one end, to the bearing block 126 catches against a
pin 509 on the lever arm 86, and retains it in position when the feed roll Z¹ is
moved away from its fellow rolt Z. The rolls Y Y¹ Z' are ordinary rubber covered
rolls, fast on their respective shafts. The roll Z is, however connected with its
shaft by friction. It consists (see Figure 12) of a rubber covered metal tube 90,
with hubs 91 and 92, of metal slipped into the ends, and there rivetted. The
shaft 48 passes freely through these hubs. The hub 92 has a peripherical flange 93.
Two radial holes are drilled through the flange from opposite sides. In each hole
is set a friction plug 94 of leather, or other suitable material. A screw 95, tapped
into each hole forces the plug 94 with more or less pressure against the shaft 48.
The feed roll Z is thus carried with the shaft 48 and feeds the lace at its own
surface speed until there is a drag exceeding the friction on the shaft whereupon
the shaft 48 turns independently. The rolls Z Z have therefore the double
function of tension and feed rolls.
The roll Z is made of larger diameter than the feed roll Y¹, so that although
carried by shafts 48 and 49 which revolve at the same speed, it tends to feed the
lace faster and thus constantly keeps the lace taut between the two pairs of feed
rolls. The tension, which is light in order not to injure the lace by stretching is
adjusted by turning the screws 95.
The devices described constitute all of the machinery for clipping lace, this when
clipped passing out through an opening 780 (Figure 25) in the bed plate into
a receiver beneath. As, however, the lace comes in comparatively short lengths, it
is very desirable to have some ready means of attaching the different lengths
together, so that the lace may be drawn continuously through the machine. For
this purpose a sewing machine is placed at the front of the bed plate D and it is so
constructed and arranged that it can be fed across the overlapped ends of the lace
in order to stitch the front end of a fresh length to the last end of the preceding
length which is about passing under the pickers.
The sewing machine frame W, (see Figures 1-3 also Figures 26-30) slides in
ways 109 and 110 attached to the bed plate D The main shaft of the machine
consists of a sleeve z¹ and a core y¹ connected with said sleeve by spline and
groove 781 so that the two turn together, while at the same time the sleeve can be
moved end wise on the core. The core is journaled in stationary bearings, and on
it is keyed the pulley b. By a belt running to this pulley b from pulley a, motion
is conveyed to the sewing machine shaft.

page_text: The pulley a is loose on a sleeve 97 so as to turn freely thereon, and the said
sleeve slides on the tie rod g, being connected therewith by a pin 96 fixed in the
tie rod and projecting through a slot in the end of the sleeve, so as to prevent its
turning. On the side (left side Figure 2) of the pulley a is a bevelled friction
hub 98, which when the pulley is moved in the proper direction (to the left
in Figure 2) makes contact with a similar friction device 99 on the loose pulley c*.
The pulley a is held off by the spiral compression spring m except when the
sleeve 97 is drawn to the left by the depression of pedal g which is journaled
on the tie rod 1, and is connected with the sleeve 97 through the bell crank h
(pivoted to sleeve 2 on tie rod q,) the cord or wire g* (connecting the pedal with
one arm of the bell crank) and the cord or wire h* (connecting the other arm of
the hell crank with the sleeve 97).
Since the sewing machine is to be driven from the loose pulley c* it is evident
that it can only be operated when the clipping machine proper is stopped.
In order to effect the feed of the sewing machine across the lace clipping
machine the sleeve 21 which is journaled at the ends in the sewing machine
frame W is provided with an exterior screw thread, which engages the half
nut 103, pivoted to lugs on the guide 110. The object of using a half nut is that
it may be removed to disengage the screw thread on the sleeve z' and thus allow
the sewing machine to be drawn back after it has been fed across the work and a
line of stitching finished.
The sewing machine shown is of the chain stitch, or Willcox and Gibbs type.
The stationary arm and needle arm n' are fastened to the frame W by the
bolt 115 on which the needle lever turns. The tension 116, and spool pin are
on top of the standard making part of frame W. The looper 1 and the eccentric
for operating the needle lever n¹ through the eccentric rod xl are mounted on
opposite ends of the sleeve ¹ outside the latters bearings in the sewing machine.
The stationary arm 7 carries the presser foot 112 and its lifting cam 113 the
thread guide 121 and take up post 114 to cooperate with the take up 122 on the
needle arm.
The slotted plate 105 fastened above an opening 106 in the bed
plate D serves as a throat plate to the sewing machine, the needle passing through
the slot. For sewing the lengths of lace together the end of the new or entering
Jength is placed under or above the other, the lap being above the throat plate 105.
They can be held in this position by hand, or a slotted clamping plate 107
(Figure 3) secured to the slotted plate 105 can be laid over the lapped ends, and
be held down by any suitable means. As shown one end has two notches and is
slipped under the heads of screws 128, while the other end has a deeper notch and
is secured by the turn button 129. When the clamping plate is used it is less
important to provide the sewing machine with a presser foot. The sewing machine
is started by pressing on the pedal g. After it has passed across the work the
machine is stopped by raising the foot from the pedal 7, the nut 103, which is held
in engagement by catch 108 and pin 117 is withdrawn, and the machine run back
by hand.
To prevent danger to the feed screw by running the machine past the proper
point, the wedge 120 is arranged to trip spring catch 108 when the nut is
disengaged by means of spring 111 which presses against pin 118 (see Figure 29).
When two pieces of lace are thus stitched together the one draws the other
through the machine. In order to introduce the lace when there is none in the
machine, the several throat plates a¹, b' and c¹ and also the feed rollers Y Z are
drawn back by their respective levers, M (operating throat plate all and feed
roll Y), N (operating throat plate 6'), N* (operating throat plate c¹), and $6
(operating feed roll ¹). The lace or a strip of cloth sewed to the end of the lace
is then passed through the machine as already described, and the throat plates and
feed rolls are returned.
The clipping machinery being started by pressing on the pedal and thus
shifting the driving-belt on to the fast pulley c, the lace is fed slowly under the
pickers G G which cut the loose threads (floats or clips as they are sometimes

page_text: alled) and is also drawn around the edges of the throat plates all b¹ c¹ past the
everal pairs of rotary and stationary cutters which mow off the ends of the loose
hreads, which when the threads were cut, remained attached to the lace Owing
o the number and arrangement of the pickers and cutters, and the slowness of the
eed, it is practically impossible except perhaps in, very difficult figures of lace, for
uy of the loose threads to escape the action of the cutting pickers, and the mowing
off mechanism In lace where all the loose threads run lengthwise of the fabric it is
unnecessary to have obliquely disposed cutting pickers and mowing off mechanism;
but when the loose threads run across the fabric, as well as lengthwise of the
same, and therefore are apt to escape the action of the pickers moving nearly
parallel with such loose threads, it is important to ensure perfect work, to use the
obliquely disposed pickers. The angle at which the latter are disposed need not be
that of 45° as shewn, but may be varied at will.
The obliquely disposed mowing mechanisms (b' Q m¹, and c¹ Q₁e" respectively)
are useful when there are oblique threads on the lace, because unless the fabric is
bent around an edge at right angles, or approximately at right angles to the length
of the cut threads, the ends are not thrown out as certainly as they should be, and
some of them may escape the mowing action of the rotary cutter.
When there are no oblique threads the lace can be taken off through the bed
plate D at once, after passing between the first pair of feed rolls Y Y' as shewn in
full lines Figure 11.
In the machine shewn it is easy to change the direction of the pickers motion,
so that this will be in the line of the feed, at right angles to the same, or at any
intermediate angle. For this purpose it will be necessary to change the position
of the guide pieces 12, which can readily be done, as they are held only by screws;
to properly arrange the bracket on the slide, the overhanging arm or arms on the
bracket, and the cutting pickers in the overhanging arm or arms, and also to place
the journal pin with which the link is connected at the proper place on the
wrist plates. A modification of this kind is shown in Figures 16 17 and 18. The
obliquely disposed slides I with their adjuncts are replaced by the cross slides I"
with corresponding parts. As these slides and their pickers are or may be like the
slides in all respects except their relative position in the machine, further
description is unnecessary. The second set of cross pickers are lettered the
lace plate K¹.
11
Instead of the take up bar a¹ a bar z" is employed. It is carried by the arms n¹
of rock shaft p and is actuated by the eccentric q through the forked arm ".
In Figures 31-34 another mode of securing the pickers in place is represented.
Referring particularly to Figure 31, the stationary blades B are placed between
the double row of pickers G instead of outside of the same as shewn in previous
figures. They are fastened to the bridge 29*. The pickers have the inner edge of
the lifting fingers sharpened; and the elasticity of their middle portion tends to
press the lifting fingers inward instead of outward. The shanks of the pickers fit
in holes in the plates 22* fastened on the top and bottom of the arm C by
screws, the arms C₁ being fastened to the bracket of the corresponding slide as
shewn for slides I in Figure 34. The pickers are held by a plate 23*.
The rows of pickers on each pair of slides are or may be in line with each other
and where possible the stationary blades B" and their bridges 29* extend the full
width of the machine.
The grooves 5 then extend continuously across the lace plate K*. Instead of
having the ends of the arms Cabut squarely they are made to overlap as shewn
in Figures 32 and 33 so that the end pickers on the two slides are opposite each
other. The object of this arrangement is more effectually to cover the whole
surface of the lace. The oblique series of pickers G' are fastened to arms F* the
same as the pickers G to the arms C. The arms F* are attached to obliquely
disposed slides, constructed and operated like the slides I of previous Figures. The
oblique stationary blades are fastened to bridges 124 and 123, the same as the cross
blades B are to the bridge 29*. The bridge 124 extends across the lace plate and

page_text: is fastened at both ends to the picker frame E*. The bridges 123 are necessarily
separated and are fastened to the picker frame at one end only.
In the arrangement shewn in Figure 32 there is a second set of cross pickers G
supported and operated in the same manner as the first set G. The object of using
the second set is to insure the cutting of any floating threads which may be
released by the cutting of overlying oblique threads, by means of the obliquely
disposed picker G¹. A take-up bar or roller (21 all and s, respectively) is arranged
after each set of pickers. They are operated like the take-ups before described.
It is obvious that other modifications can be made in details without departing
from the spirit of the Invention, and that parts of the Invention can be used
separately.
Having now fully described the said Invention and the manner in which the
same is or may be carried into effect, what I claim is
First. In combination with the lace plate and feed rolls, or the fabric supporting
and advancing means, of a clipping machine, one or more series of pickers disposed
obliquely to the movement of the fabric, said pickers having lifting fingers for
entering beneath the loose threads to be clipped substantially as described.
Second. In combination with the fabric supporting and advancing means of a
clipping machine, two or more series of pickers arranged at different angles with
respect to the movement of the lace or fabric to be clipped substantially as
described.
Third. The combination with the pickers of a clipping machine, of a take-up, for
supplying loose fabric to be drawn in by the pickers in the operation of lifting the
loose threads substantially as described.
Fourth. The combination with the pickers of a clipping machine and the
continuously acting feed rolls of a take-up for acting upon the fabric when loose
and giving it out to the feed rolls when the pickers are lifting the loose threads,
in order that the feed rolls may not injuriously stretch the lace at that time
substantially as described.
Fifth. The combination in a clipping machine with a throat plate around which
the fabric, bent over the edge thereof, is to be drawn, of cutters for mowing off the
loose threads, said throat plate and cutters being arranged obliquely to the move-
ment of the said fabric, substantially as described.
Sixth. The two mowing mechanisms arranged at an angle, one to the other, and
comprising each a throat plate and cutters, substantially as described.
Seventh. The combination with the fabric supporting and feeding means of a
clipping machine, of two or more mowing mechanisms arranged at different angles
to the line of feed and comprising each a throat plate and cutters, substantially as
described.
Eighth. The combination with the fabric supporting and feeding means of a
clipping machine, of one or more series of pickers and cutters for cutting the loose
threads, arranged obliquely to the line of feed, and one or more mechanisms for
mowing off the cut threads, also arranged obliquely to the line of feed, substantially
as described.
Ninth. The combination with the fabric supporting and feeding means of a
clipping machine, of two or more series of pickers and cutters for cutting the loose
threads, the said two or more series being arranged at different angles to the
movement of the fabric, and two or more mowing mechanisms also arranged at
different angles to the said movement substantially as described.
Tenth. The combination of two sets of feed rolls and the mechanism for acting
upon the fabric between the said sets, with mechanism for revolving said feed rolls,
the second set at the greater speed, said mechanism including a friction device for
engaging said second set of rolls, whereby they act to keep the fabric stretched
between the two sets of feed rolls substantially as described.
Eleventh. In a lace clipping machine, a series of pickers carried by a common 5
support and having lifting fingers for entering beneath the loose threads, said

page_text: common support being moveable so as to operate said pickers simultaneously
substantially as described.
Twelfth. The combination with a series of pickers having lifting fingers, provided
on top with cutting edges of a blade common to and co-operating with the series
of pickers and arranged at the sido of and above said lifting fingers substantially as
described.
Thirteenth. The combination with the lace plate, of a slide, an arm attached to
said slide and overhanging said lace plate, and a series of pickers attached to said
arm, substantially as described.
Fourteenth. The combination with the slide, the overhanging arm and the
pickers attached to said arm, of the vertically moveable bed whereon the said slide
is supported substantially as described.
Fifteenth. The combination with the vertically moveable bed of two or more
picker slides mounted in ways on said moveable bed, substantially as described.
Sixteenth. The combination with the moveable bed and the links and eccentrics
for reciprocating the same vertically of one or more picker slides mounted on said
bed, and one or more eccentrics and connections for reciprocating said slides,
substantially as described.
Seventeenth. The combination with one or more picker slides, of one or more
wrist plates, the links between the wrist plates and slides, and one or more
eccentrics and connections for vibrating said wrist plates, substantially as described.
Eighteenth. The combination with the moveable bed, and the eccentrics and
links for moving the same up and down, of picker slides on said bed, a wrist plate,
the links between the wrist plate and the slides, and the eccentric and links for
vibrating said wrist plate, substantially as described.
Nineteenth. The combination with a series of pickers and a common support to
which the pickers are attached, of mechanism for giving a rising and falling and
back and forth movement to said support, so as to operate the pickers simul-
taneously, substantially as described.
Twentieth. The combination with the pickers of a clipping machine, of
mechanism for giving a back and forth and also a rising and falling motion to said
pickers, said mechanism comprising the moveable bed and the picker slides
moveable in ways on said bed, substantially as described.
Twenty first. The combination of the grooved lace plate, the pickers, the over-
hanging arms to which said pickers are attached, the picker slides, the moveable
bed, and the eccentrics and connections for reciprocating said bed, and also for
reciprocating said slides on said bed, substantially as described.
Twenty second. The combination with the series of cutting pickers, an over-
hanging arm forming a common support to which the cutting pickers are fastened,
and the mechanism for giving a back and forth, and also an up and down motion
to said support, of one or more stationary cutting blades, co-operating each with a
number of said pickers, substantially as described.
Twenty third. The combination with the picker frame, lace plate, cutting
pickers, and a common moveable support, to which the pickers are fastened, of one
or more co-operating cutting blades, fastened to a support at the side of said lace
plate and projecting over the lace plate and alongside the said cutting pickers,
substantially as described.
Twenty fourth. The combination with a stationary blade and the rotary cutter,
of the moveable throat plate and mechanism for moving it towards and away from
said cutter, substantially as described.
Twenty fifth. The combination with the moveable throat plate and the
moveable feed roll of the mechanism for moving them simultaneously, substantially
as described.
Twenty sixth. The combination with one or more pair of feed rolls, one roll of
each pair being moveable away from the other, of mowing mechanism comprising
each a throat plate and cutters, the throat plate being moveable away from the
cutters, substantially as described.

page_text: Twenty seventh. The combination with the two throat plates, arranged at an
angle to each other, of the intermediate adjustable guide pieces, around which the
fabric is led, substantially as described.
Twenty eighth. The combination with the guide piece and the spring for holding
it up, of the moveable segment for adjusting the position of the guide piece,
substantially as described.
Twenty ninth. The feed roller composed of the shaft, the sleeve mounted loosely
on the shaft; and the adjustable friction connection between the sleeve and the
shaft, substantially as described.
Thirtieth. The combination with a feed roll and its shaft of a second feed roll
having its shaft connected with the shaft aforesaid, the said second feed roll having
the larger diameter and being composed of a sleeve connected by friction with its
shaft, substantially as described.
Thirty first. The combination with the lace clipping machine, of the Sewing
machine moveablo in ways of the clipping machine frame, across the fabric for
stitching together the ends of different lengths, substantially as described.
Thirty second. The Sewing machine in combination with mechanism for feeding
the same lengthwise of its stationary arm, substantially as described.
Thirty third. The combination with the cutters for mowing off the cut threads,
of the throat plate around whose edge the fabric is drawn, adjustable towards and
away from the said cutters to regulate the closeness of the cut to the face of the
fabric, substantially as described.
Thirty fourth. A double row of pickers in combination with two stationary
blades, arranged between or on opposite sides of the double row of pickers,
substantially as described.
Thirty fifth. A spring cutting picker consisting of a shank to be secured in a
socket, an elastic and flexible middle portion, and a lifting finger having a cutting
edge substantially as described.
Thirty six. The combination of a moveable spring picker having a lifting finger
provided with a cutting edge, in combination with a stationary.co-operating blade
substantially as described.
Thirty seventh. A series of moveable spring pickers having lifting fingers
provided each with a cutting edge, in combination with a stationary blade
common to, and co-operating with the series of spring pickers, substantially us
described.
Thirty eighth. A double row of spring pickers having lifting fingers provided
with a cutting edge, the cutting edges being formed on opposite sides of the lifting
fingers in the pickers of the two single rows, in combination with co-operating
stationary blades substantially as described, so that the elastic pressure of the
pickers of the two rows, against the stationary blades is in opposite directions as
set forth.
Thirty ninth. In a clipping machine, a row of pickers having the horizontal
lifting fingers in the same line and pointing in the same direction, the heel of one
picker, or a dummy, acting as a guard to hold down the fabric, and thus to keep
the point of the lifting finger behind from catching in said fabric, substantially as
described.