IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BRACELETS, CHAINS, RINGS, AND OTHER ARTICLES OF
Year: 1864

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Jean Baptiste Buffoni, of Soho Square, in the
County of Middlesex, Jeweller, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN
THE MANUFACTURE OF BRACELETS, CHAINS, RINGS, AND OTHER ARTICLES OF
Sealed the 10th February 1865, and dated the 18th August 1864.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Jean Baptiste Buffoni
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
13th August 1864.
I, JEAN BAPTISTE BUFFONI, of Soho Square, in the County of Middlesex,
Jeweller, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BRACELETS, CHAINS, RINGS, AND OTHER ARTICLES
OF JEWELLERY, AND IN APPARATUS FOR THE SAME," to be as follows:-
This Invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of bracelets,
waist-belts, necklaces, rings, guard chains, and other articles of jewellery,
which are formed of strips or bands of metal, in the manner herein-after
described, without the aid of soldered joints. By the method employed I am
enabled to greatly reduce the cost of manufacture, and to obtain without the
aid of accessory parts an extreme elasticity and suppleness which. as applied
to bracelets will obviate the use of the plates or frames ordinarily employed
for fastening them. The bands or strips of metal serving for the manufac-
ture of these articles of jewellery may be ornamented in any suitable manner

page_text: either by engraving, chasing, by the application of precious stones, or
otherwise.
In order to render my Invention well understood, I will proceed to describe
the successive operations by means of which I attain the desired result. I
first take a pieco of gold, silver, aluminium, or other metal which has been
previously drawn in the form of a flat narrow strip, and pass it through suit-
able rolls, which are actuated by the ordinary mechanism, and consist of a
pair of cylinders, the upper one having about its centre a circular flange or
projection, which is received in a corresponding groove in the lower cylinder,
except that this one is intended to preserve the flat surface of the metal strip
passing through, while the flange or projection on the upper roller is partially
cut away all round, so as by pressure to give the metal a ☐ or gutter form
in cross section. This form of metal, which constitutes the essential feature of
my improved manufacture, may be used for the production of any of the
articles before enumerated. For this purpose, after having produced the
metal in the form described, I wind it carefully on a mandril with the flanges
or sides outwards, which mandril should be a little smaller than the required
dimensions of the article to be produced; after winding the strap on in a con-
tinuous length I secure it to the ends of the mandril by means of a pin.
I would here observe that according to the more or less ornamental form to
be given to the bracelet or other article the mandril or core will be either flat
or curved on the outer face for the purpose in the latter case of preventing
the too great extension of the metal, which if wound on flat would be liable to
become twisted. I next take a wire, either of zinc, copper, or lead, and wind
it on the metal strip above mentioned, taking care to keep it on one side next
the turned-up edge of the metal, a similar wire being wound on within the
opposite edge, and so that the two wires will lenvo a certain space between
for the reception of a second strip of metal which covers the whole, and is of
similar form to the one already described. The second strip is wound on in
an inverted position, so that its flanges or sides shall fit into the spaces left in
the former between the two wires. This being done, the article is finished;
'the two continuous strips being secured together without the aid of solder at
any point, there only remains to give the finishing touches, and impart the
desired elasticity and suppleness. Each of the bands of metal connected in
the manner described are subjected to a certain degree of pressure in finishing
by means of dies adapted to any kind of screw press, the mandril forming the
'centre with the chain or other article surrounding it.
It will be evident that for bracelets, waistbelts, coronets, and such like
"articles of a more or less ornamental form, the lower die will be of corres-

page_text: ponding form. The elasticity and suppleness of the articles are obtained by
removing the zinc, copper, or lead wires previously described and serving to
keep the whole together during the manufacture. These wires may be
removed either by subjecting them to the action of heat, or by introducing
liquid chemical agents, more or less heated, into the bracelet or other article,
or otherwise. The wires being thus melted or otherwise removed, each of the
bands or strips becomes free to move to an extent equal to the thickness of
the wires, and so producing the requisite suppleness. The elasticity will also
result from the springing action of the continuous strips. Bracelets or other
articles manufactured in the manner described may bo secured together at
the ends, or open and close by means of suitable clasps or fastenings as in
ordinary; for instance, à bracelet will possess sufficient elasticity to pass over
the hand, and again become contracted so as to fit the wrist, while in the
latter case the clasp or fastening may be more or less ornamental. The
mandril or mould on which the strips are wound may also be more or less
circular in cross section, and in some cases of a taper form according to the
nature of the article to be produced; for instance, I make what is termed a
serpent of coiled strips of metal, which may either serve as a bracelet or waist-
belt, and is capable of being worn or applied in any position.
I would remark in conclusion that I may employ any suitable metal or
material in this improved manufacture, such as gold, silver, aluminium, or
others, whatever may be the dimensions of the articles to be produced, neither
do I confine myself to the precise nature of the applications of my Invention
herein described.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Jean Baptiste Buffoni in the Great Seal Patent Office on
the 13th February 1865.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JEAN
BAPTISTE BUFFONI, of Soho Square, in the County of Middlesex, Jeweller,
send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Thirteenth day of August, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-four, in the twenty-eighth year of
Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto
me, the said Jean Baptiste Buffoni, Her special licence that I, the said
Jean Baptiste Buffoni, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such

page_text: others as I, the said Jean Baptiste Buffoni, my executors, administrators,
and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time
and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and
lawfully might make, usc, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom
of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an
Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BRACELETS, CHAINS,
RINGS, AND OTHER ARTICLES OF JEWELLERY, AND IN APPARATUS FOR THE SAME," upon
the condition (amongst others) that I, the said Jean Baptiste Buffoni, my
executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their,
or one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the
nature of the said Invention, and in what manner tho same was to be
performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office
within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said
Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Jean Baptiste Buffoni do hereby
declare the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is
to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement, reference being had to the Sheet of Drawings hereunto
annexed, and to the letters and figures marked thereon (that is to say):-
This Invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of bracelets,
waist belts, coronets, necklaces, rings, guard chains, and other articles of
jewellery, which I form of strips or bands of metal, in the manner herein-after
described, without the aid of soldered joints. By the methods employed I
am enabled to greatly reduce the cost of manufacture, and to obtain without
the aid of accessory parts an extreme elasticity and suppleness, which as
applied to bracelets will obviate the use of the plates or frames ordinarily
employed for fastening them. The bands or strips of metal serving for the
manufacture of these articles of jewellery may be ornamented in any suitable
manner either by engraving, chasing, by the application of precious stones, or
otherwise.
"
In order to render my Invention well understood I will proceed to describe
the successivo operations by means of which I attain the desired result.
I first take a piece of gold, silver, aluminium, or other metal which has been
previously drawn in the form of a flat narrow strip, and pass it through suit-
able rolls, which are actuated by the ordinary mechanism, and consist of a
pair of cylinders, the upper one having about its centre a circular flange or
projection, which is received in a corresponding groove in the lower cylinder,
except that this one is intended to preserve the flat surface of the metal strip
or projection on the upper roller has grooves or recesses all round, so as by

page_text: pressure to impart to the metal a shallow
or gutter form in cross section.
This form of metal, which constitutes one of the essential features of my
improved manufacture, may be used for the production of any of the articles
before enumerated. For this purpose after having produced the metal in the
form described I wind it carefully on a mandril with the side having the
flanges outwards, which mandril should be a little smaller than the required
dimensions of the article to be produced; after winding the strip on in a con-
tinuous length, I secure it to the two ends of the mandril by means of a pin.
I would here observe that according to the more or less ornamental form
to be given to the bracelet or other article the mandril or core will be either
flat, rounded, or moulded on the outer face for the purpose in the latter case of
preventing the too great extension of the metal, which wound on flat would be
liable to become twisted. I next take a wire, either of zinc, copper, or lead,
and wind it on above the metal strip above mentioned, taking care to keep it
on one side, that is to say, next the turned-up edge or flange of the metal; a
similar wire is wound on within the form at the opposite edge, and so that
tho two wires will leave a certain space between for the reception of a second
strip of metal which covers the whole, and is of similar form to the one already
described. This second strip is wound on in an inverted position, that is to
say, with its flanges towards the mandril, and so that its flanges shall fit into
the space left in the former between the two lead or zinc wiros. This being
done, the winding and general forming is finished; the two continuous strips
being thus interlocked throughout, and secured together without the aid of
solder at any point, there only remains to give the finishing touches, aud
impart the desired elasticity and suppleness. In order that the junctions of
the strips forining the bracelet or other article shall appear perfectly straight
on the outside I slightly twist them by fixing one end of the mandril in a vice,
and then pressing up the strips in any suitable manner, the interior remaining
as before. Each of the bands of metal connected in the manner described are
subjected to a certain degree of pressure in finishing by means of dies adapted
to any kind of screw press, the mandril forming the centre, with the bracelet,
or coil, or chain surrounding it.
It will be evident that for bracelets, waistbands, coronets, and such like
articles, of a more or less ornamental form, the lower die will be of
corresponding form. The elasticity and suppleness of the articles are
obtained by removing the zinc, copper, or lead wires previously described as
serving to keep the whole together during the manufacture. These wires
may be removed either by subjecting the partially manufactured article to the
action of heat, and melting them out, or by the application of liquid chemical

page_text: agents, more or less heated, which will dissolve the soft motal wire, but will
not act on the gold or metal of which the bracelet is composed, sulphuric acid
being used for dissolving the lead, and muriatic acid the zinc, according to
which is employed. The soft metal wires being thus melted or otherwise
removed, each of the bands or strips becomes froe to move laterally to an
extent equal to the thickness of the soft metal wires, and so producing the
required suppleness. The elasticity will also result from the springing action
of the contiguous coils of the strip. Bracelets and other articles manufactured
in the manner described may be secured together at the ends, or opened and
closed by means of suitable clasps or fastenings as in ordinary; for instance,
a bracelet will possess sufficient elasticity to pass over the hand, and again
contract so as to fit the wrist, while on the other hand if a clasp or fastening
be used it may be more or less ornamental. The mandril or mould on which
the strips are wound may also be more or less circular in cross section, and
in some cases of a tapering form according to the nature of the article to be
produced; for instance, I make what is termed a serpent of coiled strips of
metal, which may serve either as a bracelet, necklet, or waistband, and is
capable of being worn or applied in any position.
I would remark in conclusion that I can employ any suitablo metal or
material in this improved manufacture, such as gold, silver, aluminium, or
others, whatever may be the dimensions of the articles to be produced, nor do
I confine myself to the precise nature of the applications of my Invention
herein described.
Instead of the strips boing formed by means of rolls as described, they may
be made by pressing the flattened wires through draw plates of square or of
other form desired. I also sometimes make the articles of a scrow or twisted
form, using two strips, one of which is wound on a round mandril in such
manner that the turned-up edges of the strips shall be uppermost; I then
wind a second strip on a mandril of similar form, but of a rather larger size,
the turned-up edges being undermost; I then withdraw the mandril and
screw this strip on the other so as to fit like a male and female screw. The
strips may also be wound on spirally, or in other suitable manner.
DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS.
At Fig. 1 the several views a, b, c, d, illustrate the strip metal of which
my improved bracelets or other articles of jewellery are made. a, represents
the strip of metal in the flat, and as it is before assuming the form

page_text: ♫ represents a section of the same. Fig. 2 represents a pair of rolls used for
giving the desired form to the strip when passed between them, as well under-
stood in rolling metals, but instead of using these rolls the strip may be drawn
through a draw plate, and the form so imparted, which processes being well
understood require no description. The strip of metal so prepared is used of
a length according to the article to be made, which is formed by coiling on a
mandril two coils of the strip metal, one being superposed on the other.
Fig. 3 represents a cross section, and Fig. 4 a partial side view of a flat
mandril having the metal strip partially wound thereon. The first coil is
applied with the flat side of the strip c next the mandril, the end of the strip
being first secured thereto, and tho several coils applied in close contiguity till
n sufficient length is formed for the article being made; the ends of the strips
being both secured, I now coil in the groove or gutters of the strip c so coiled
on the mandril two wires of lead or zine e, e, of rectangular cross section, one
on each side of the groove close to the flanges, leaving a space between them,
as seen in another view of the mandril and first coil at Fig. 5. 'I then pro-
ceed to coil the upper and outer coil or strip which is to form the exterior of
the bracelet; this is superposed in an inverted position, and so disposed as to
embrace within its groove two adjoining flanges of the inner coil, and two of
the lead or zinc wires; this will be best understood by reference to Fig. 6,
which represents a cross section of the coiled strips superposed with the lead
embedded. When the coils are so wound throughout the length required,
they are slid off the mandril, and the ends of the strips are secured together.
The metals so wound will form a stiff and inelastic formation. In order to
impart the elasticity and flexibility required, the lead wires are to be removed;
this I effect by heating the coil and melting the soft metal, which runs out
when it is as seen in Fig. 6*. Instead of removing the soft metal by heat
it may be effected by immersing the coils in diluted sulphuric or muriatic
acids (sulphuric acid for lead, and muriatic acid for zinc), accordingly as lead
or zinc
may be used, the acid dissolving the soft metal, which will then run
out without prejudicially affecting the strip metal of the article being fabricated,
supposing it to be gold or other metal used for jewellery. The double coil
will now possess an amount of elasticity limited only by the contact of the
adjoining flanges of the contiguous coils of the strips, each two coils having an
amount of play or lateral motion equal to the width occupied by the two lead
wires introduced as before described. Figs. 7 and 8 represent a bracelet in
the contracted form on a larger scale than at Figs. 3 and 4, in which the
outer strip only is seen, while Fig. 9 represents the same expanded, and in
which the inner and outer strips c', c², are both seen; the dotted circle in

page_text: Fig. 8 indicates the expanded form. To form a bracelet it is simply necessary
to join the two ends of the coiled strip after removing them from the mandril,
which I do by a hoop f, and a pin or pins passing through the whole, or it
may be by soldering only, or in addition to the pins. A bracelet so made
requires no clasp or fastening, as it expands to pass over the hand of the
wearer, and contracts again on the wrist. The coiled strips possess sufficient
resilience to contract to the position of contact of the contiguous coils, as seen
at Fig. 7. In these coiled bracelets the junctions of the coils will be at an
inclination across the breadth which may be considered objectionable; to obviate
this, beforo drawing the coils off the mandrill I press the coils at one edge of
the mandril wbilo resistanco is offered at the other edge, and so impart such
an amount of twist to the whole as to bring all the outside joints at right
angles, or directly neross, while the whole of tho inclination will be transferred
to the junctions on the inside of the bracelet. These bracelets or other
articles so maile may be further ornamented by engraving or mounting precious
stones on the several coils of strip metal, & may be furnished with clasps or
other fastenings instead of securing the coils together as described and repre-
sented in Fig. 7 and 8. Instead of n flat coil the metal may be formed on a
mandril having a convex exterior, or of other ornamental outline, and such as
represented at Figs. 9 and 10; Fig. 10 showing also a cross section of the
mandril.
Fig. 11 shows another section of a mandril and coiled strip of wire of more
ornamental form, but in which it is necessary to stamp the coiled metals in
dies 9 and h, in order to give the metal the form of the mandril; this is done
while the lead wire is still in the coil. Necklets and other articles of jewel-
lery may be similarly mado either in one or moro pieces of the coiled metals.
In coiling it is not necessary that the mandril should be parallel, as it may be
tapered or otherwise formed to give it a more or less ornamental character.
Instead of winding the contiguous coils in close contact, and so that the coil
shall elongate when completed, I sometimes make it so that it will remain in
its extended form, but may be contracted by force if desired; this I do by
winding the first strip of metal on the mandril with a lead wire between the
coils, as at Fig. 10, so that they are wound apart. The upper and superposed
strip is wound so as to embrace the two flanges of the lower strip and the lend
wire between them, as seen in partial section. The lead wire is subsequently
melted out or dissolved as before described. This form of the manufacture as
a bracelet requires a clasp, as at p, Fig. 9*.
I also manufacture chains of the metal strips herein-before described, in
which case I wind or coil them on a round or it may be hexagonal, octagonal,

page_text: or other sided mandril; when wound on a round mandril the two strips instead
of being wound on the same mandril may be wound separately, the one on a
mandril rather larger than the other, and the smaller one afterwards screwed
into the other throughout its length; when wound on a bexagonal or other
sided mandril, it may be necessary to press the coils in moulds to impart the
correct form of the mandril, as before described with reference to Fig. 11.
Elastic or non-elastic rings may also be made of small coils of metal as
described, set with precious stones as heretofore alluded to with reference to
bracelets.
Having described the nature of my Invention, and the manner of performing
the same, 1 declare that what I claim as my Invention to be protected by the
bercin-before in part recited Letters Patent is,-
The manufacture of bracelets, necklets, waistbelts, and other articles of
jewellery of flanged or grooved strips of metal wound and interlocked with
each other in the manner and as berein-before described.
I also claim the application of mandrils, and lead, zinc, or other soft
metal wires, in the manufacture of articles of jewellery herein-before described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Jean Baptiste Buffoni have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Thirteenth day of February, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-five.
BUFFONI GIO BATTISTA.
(L.B.)