IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS, SHOES, AND OTHER COVERINGS FOR THE FEET
Year: 1867

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Thomas Greenwood, of Leeds, in the County of York,
Machinist, and John Keats, of Leek, in the County of Stafford, Boot
and Shoe Manufacturer, for the Invention of" IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY
FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS, SHOES, AND OTHER COVERINGS FOR THE
FEET."
Sealed the 28th May 1867, and dated the 14th February 1867.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Thomas Greenwood and
John Keats at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with their
Petition, on the 14th February 1867..
We, THOMAS GREENWOOD, of Leeds, in the County of York, Machinist,
and' JOHN KEATS, of Leek, in the County of Stafford, Boot and Shoe Manu-
facturer, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS
IN MACHINERY FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS, SHOES, AND OTHER COVERINGS FOR
THE FEET," to be as follows:-
The first partof our improvementsconsists in the applicationof an improved
presser applied to a sewing machine, for which a Patent was granted to John
Keats and William Stephens Clark, dated 14th April 1863, No. 938, and
consists of a vertical rectangular sliding bar attached to the lower part of the
round feeding bar. We shorten the round feeding bar and form a projecting
piece at the lower end, so as to allow the upper end of the rectangular bar to
slide freely through it; the lower end of this bar slides through a bearing
In the part
projecting from the round presser bar and extends downwards.

page_text: of the rectangular bar between the bearings is formed an opening in shape of
a fork, or of the letter U, which receives the end of a lever; this lever has its
fulcrum in the head of the machine, and the other end continues backward in
the direction of the cam shaft in proportion of about 2 to 1 from the fulcrum,
and is drawn upwards by spiral springs attached to the arm of the main
casting for the purpose of forcing down the pressure foot upon the work and
holding it firmly together while the stitch is being pulled tight. In the main
casting is mounted a vertical slide carrying a friction bowl which is interposed
between an
adjustable set screw which passes through the lever and a cam or
lappet keyed upon the main shaft of the machine, so that as the lappet
rotates it will depressthe friction bowl, thereby drawing down the slide and
forcing down the long end of the lever, and consequently raising the
rectangular pressure slide and presser from the work at the other end so as to
allow the feed. motion to push forward the work.
The second improvement relates to an improved hook or awl holder which
is made separate from the needle bar to which it is fixed by means of a square
part fitting into a projection at the bottom of the needle bar, and is held in
its place by a nut and screw at its upper end. The holder consists of a short
nipple of steel having a hole bored up its centre to receive the upper end of
the hook orawl; the outside of the nipple is screwed to receive a corresponding
nut, and it has also three slits cut through from the outside into the hole
which receives the hook or awl; the lower end of this nipple is conical on the
outside, and the interior of the nut is formed so as to fit this conical part;
thus it will be seen that when the nut is screwed with its interior cone against
the conical end of the nipple the effect will be to close the hole and thereby
grip the end of the hook or awl. The hole in the nipple can have a shallow
thread cut in it, and the shank of the hook or awl may have a corresponding
thread so as to prevent the hook or awl from moving vertically while at
work.
The next improvement relates to a novel boot or shoe holder and anvil, and
consists of two cylinders, one fitting inside the other, and each provided with
flanges; these cylinders are made of cast iron and are accurately shaped.
The larger cylinder is fitted into a work bench, and is firmly screwed down to
the bench by the flange; the flange of the smaller cylinder rests upon the
flange of the larger cylinder, and on the upper end of the small cylinder is,
fixed a wooden block shaped and padded with some soft material to receive
the boot or shoe when the sole is upwards; on the lower end of the larger.
cylinder is fixed a joint to receive a lever. In the middle of this lever is a..
joint and swivel to receive a stirrup strap, and on the opposite or handle end

page_text: of this lever is mounted a pawl and spring which takes into a radial ratchet
tooth rack. A strap passes round the boot or shoe when laid upon the
pad, and the other end is attached to the jointed swivel, so that when the lever
is depressed to hold the boot or shoe firmly upon the pad the pawl takes into
one of the saw teeth of the radial rack and thereby holds the strap in proper
tension. In the inside of the smaller cylinder is a projection sufficient to
allows three holes (about in. diameter), which receive one end of a stud the
other end of which fits into a hole in the last, and thus serves to hold the boot
or shoe in a convenient position to fasten on the heel.
The next improvement relates to an apparatus for dressing and grooving or
channelling strips of leather for the welts of boots and shoes, and consists of a
cast-iron bed plate, which is fitted with changeable troughs to receive the
different sizes of welts; to this bed plate is hinged an upper part which carries
the cutters either for dressing or grooving the strip of leather: The strips are
held down in the trough or groove by means of a separate spring acting upon
a thin piece of steel hinged over the trough or groove. The strip of leather
to be dressed or grooved is laid in the trough, and the hinged part is pressed.
down upon it; the strip is then drawn through the groove and is cut into the
required form.
The last improvement in our machinery for making boots and shoes is the
machine for shaping the edges of the soles and heels. The various profiles of
the edges of the soles and heels have been shaped by means of rotating:
circular cutters, but it has hitherto been found difficult to use them from the.
danger of damaging the upper leathers. Our improvement consists in
applying suitably shaped fixed guides so as to prevent the circular,cutters
coming in contact with the upper leathers. By the use of these guides in
conjunction with the cutters we are enabled to shape the fore part of the soles
and the middle or "waist" part of the soles, and the outside of the heel and
the inner part or breast of the heel where it joins the sole.
ל
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Thomas Greenwood and John Keats in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 14th August 1867.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we;' THOMAS
GREENWOOD, of Leeds, in the County of York, Machinist, and JOHN KEATS,
of Leek, in the County of Stafford, Boot and Shoe Manufacturer; send
greeting.

page_text: WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Fourteenth day of February, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-seven, in the thirtieth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto us, the
said Thomas Greenwood and John Keats, Her special licence that we, the said
Thomas Greenwood and John Keats, our executors, administrators, and
assigns, or such others as we, the said Thomas Greenwood and John Keats,
our executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with,
and no others, from time to time, and at all times thereafter during the term
therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend,
within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands,
and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY FOR THE
MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS, SHOES, AND OTHER COVERINGS FOR THE FEET," upon the
condition (amongst others) that we, the said Thomas Greenwood and John
Keats, our executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under our,
or their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and
ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and 'in what manner the same
was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent
Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of
the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Thomas Greenwood, on behalf of myself
and of the said John Keats, do hereby declare the nature of our said Invention,
and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described
and ascertained in and by the following statement, reference being had to the
Drawings hereunto annexed, and to the letters and figures marked thereon
(that is to say):-
The first part of our improvements consists in the application of an improved
presser to a sewing machine, for which a Patent was granted to John Keats
and William Stephens Clark, dated Fourteenth April, One thousand eight
hundred and sixty-three, No. 938. The improved presser consists ofa vertical
rectangular sliding bar attached to the lower part of the round feeding bar,
and to the lower end of which vertical bar is secured the presser foot. In
carrying out this part of the Invention the round feeding bar is shortened and
a projecting piece is formed at the lower end so as to allow the upper end
of the rectangular bar to slide freely through it; the lower end of this bar
slides through a bearing projecting from the round presser bar and extends
downwards.
In the accompanying Drawings Fig. 1, Sheet I., represents a boot-making
machine constructed according to this part of our Invention. A is a vertical

page_text: rectangular sliding bar which carries the feeder arm and feeder A¹, and is
capable of sliding up and down through the two bearings B, C. The upper.
bearing Bis formed by a projecting part on the lower end of the round feeding
bar D, and the lower bearing C is formed by a projecting part firmly fixed to
the round feeding bar. Near the centre of the rectangular bar A and between
its bearings B, C, is a forked opening which receives a pin at the end of the
vibrating lever E; this lever has its fulcrum at 1 in the head of the machine,
and extends backwards in the direction ofthe cam shaft in proportion of about
two to one. The long end of the lever E is drawn upwards by the coiled or
helical spring F for the purpose of forcing down the opposite end which carries
the presser foot G, and causing the latter to press upon the work and hold it
firmly together while the stitch is being pulled tight; H is a vertical slide
carrying a friction bowl 2. This slide is fitted to work in guides made in the
main framing of the machine. I is a cam keyed upon the main shaft and
acts against the bowl 2, which is mounted in the vertical slide H,and is kept in
contact with the cam I by means of the lever E, so that as the cam I rotates
it will depress the friction bowl 2, thereby drawing down the slide H and
forcing down the long end of the lever E, and consequently raising the rec-
tangular presser bar A from the work, so as to allow the feed motion A¹ to
push forward the work. The lever E is provided with a set screw E¹, which
passes through the lever and bears against the slide which carries the bowl 2.
It will now be understood that when the vertical bar A, which carries thefeeder
A is raised the coiled spring A2 will keep the feeder A¹ down on the goods, so
that when the bar A descends again the feeder A' will push forward the work.
The second improvement relates to an improved hook or awl holder, which
is made separate from the needle bar to which it is secured by means of a
square part fitting into a projection at the bottom of the needle bar, and is
held in its place by a nut and screw at its upper end. This holder is shewn
detached at Fig. 2, and consists of a short nipple of steel a having a hole
bored up its centre to receive the upper end of the hook or awl. The outside
of the nipple a is screwed to receive a corresponding nut 6, and it has also
three slits cut through from the outside into the hole which receives the hook
or awl. The lower end of this nipple is conical on the outside, and the interior
of the nut is formed so as to fit this conical part; thus it will be seen that
when the nut is screwed with its interior cone against the conical end of the
nipple the effect will be to close the hole, and thereby grip the end of the
hook or awl. The hole in the nipple can have a shallow thread cut in it and
the shank of the hook or awl may have a corresponding thread so as to
prevent.the.hook or awl from moving vertically while at work.

page_text: The next improvement relates to a novel boot or shoe holder and anvil, and
is shewn in Sheet II. of the Drawings. Fig. 3 is a plan view of the machine,
and Fig. 4 is a sectional elevation of the game. It consists of two cylinders
A and B, one fitting inside the other and each provided with flanges; these
cylinders are made of cast iron and are accurately shaped. The larger
cylinder A is fitted into a work bench, and is firmly screwed down to the
bench by the flange. The flange of the smaller cylinder B rests upon the
flange of the larger cylinder A, and on the upper end of the small cylinder is
fixed a wooden block C shaped and padded with some soft material to receive
the boot or shoe when the sole is upwards. On the lower side of the larger
cylinder A is fixed an arm provided with a joint D to receive a lever Ę;in
the middle of this lever is a joint and swivel F to receive a leather or other
stirrup strap F, and on the opposite or handle end of this lever is mounted a
pawl G and spring which takes into a radial ratchet tooth rack H. A strap FI
passes round the boot or shoe when laid upon the pad, and the other end is
attached to the jointed swivel F, so that when the lever is depressed to hold
the boot or shoe firmly upon the pad the pawl G will take into one of the saw
teeth of the raidial rack H, and thereby keep the strap in proper tension and
hold the boot firmly. In the inside of the smaller cylinder is a projection
sufficient to allow three holes (about half an inch diameter) which receive
one end of a stud I, the other end of which fits into a hole in the last, and
thus serves to hold the boot or shoe in a convenient position to fasten on
the heel.
The next improvement relates to apparatus for cutting up leather into strips;
and dressing, grooving, or channelling such strips of leather for the welts of
boots and shoes. This improvement is shewn in Sheet III., in which Fig. 5
is á sectional plan view, Fig. 6 is an elevation, and Fig. 7 an end view of the
tool for cutting up leather into strips. The leather a is placed on a table b,
and a cutter c being brought down on the leather the latter is drawn forward
and a strip of the proper width will be thereby cut off therefrom. The cutter c
is capable of adjustment in its socket so as to cut strips of different width, as
may be required. The piece of leather is brought up against a guide plate d,
and thereby enables the operator to cut the strips with perfect accuracy; the
strips so cut are then channelled or grooved in a separate machine, as shewn
at Figures 8. 9, and 10 in Sheet III. It consists of a cast-iron bed plate e,
which is fitted with changeable troughs fto receive the different sizes of welts;
three of these are shewn detached at Figure 9. To this bed plate e is hinged
an upper part g which carries the cutter'h, either for dressing or grooving the
strip of leather. The strips are held down in the trough or groove by means

page_text: of a separate spring i, Fig. 8*; acting upon a thin piece of steel hinged over
the trough or groove. The strip of leather to be dressed or grooved is laid
in the trough, and the hinged part g with the cutter h is pressed down upon
it; the strip is then drawn through the groove, and the cutter h will cut out
the channel or groove to the required form.
The last improvement in our machinery for making boots and shoes relates
to à machine for shaping or paring the edges of the soles and heels after they
have been attached to the upper leathers. The various profiles of the edges
of the soles and heels have been heretofore shaped by means of rotating
cutters, but it has hitherto been found difficult and inconvenient to use cutters
of this kind, owing to the danger of damaging the upper leathers. Our im-
provement consists in applying suitable shaped fixed or stationary guides or
fenders to the rotary cutters, so as to prevent the latter from coming in contact
with the upper leathers. By the use of these stationary guides in conjunction
with the cutters we are enabled to shape the fore part of the soles by paring
away the superfluous leather. The middle or waist part of the soles, and the
outside of the heel, and the inner part or breast of the heel where it joins the
sole all require cutters and guides of different shape, some of which are shewn
in Sheets IV. and V. of the Drawings, but all of them are constructed upon
the same plan, and according to our improvement the guides or fenders instead
of rotating with the cutters, as heretofore, are stationary, while the cutters
rotate with great speed.
Fig. 11 is a side elevation, and Fig. 12 a plan view of a machine for cutting,
paring, or shaping the soles and heels of boots and shoes. It will be seen
that the machine carries two cutters at each end. Fig. 13 is a plan view,
partly in section, of one pair of cutters, shewn detached with their spindles
and stationary guides, all drawn upon an enlarged scale. Fig. 14 is a similar
view of the other pair of rotary cutters with their driving gear and accessories.
In Figures 11 and 12 a, a, represent the table, supported on standards b, b,
and on which are bolted the brackets c, c, which carry the bearings of the
cutter spindles h, h. d is a bracket or standard in bearings, at the upper end
of which is mounted the shaft e of the large driving pulley g, which by means
of bands g', g, drives the pulleys f, f, on the cutter spindles h, h; these
spindles pass through stationary sleeves i, i, which at their outer ends carry
the stationary or fixed guides i¹, 1, of different shapes, according to the part
of the boot or shoe to which they are to be applied. The rotary cutters j, j,
are secured on the ends of the spindles h, h, by screws, as shewn in the
Drawing, or otherwise.
Having now described our Invention of "Improvements in Machinery for

page_text: the Manufacture of Boots, Shoes, and other Coverings for the Feet,” and
having explained the manner of carrying the same into effect, we claim as the
Invention secured to us by Letters Patent as aforesaid,―
First, the combination or arrangement of parts herein set forth constituting
an improved presser.
Second, the improved hook or awl holder above shewn and described.
Third, the improved mechanism shewn in Sheet II. for holding the boot or
shoe while being operated upon.
Fourth, the novel arrangement or construction of parts for cutting out and
channelling strips of leather to form the welts of boots or shoes.
Fifth, the application to rotary cutters for paring or shaping the edges of
the soles and heels of boots and shoes of fixed or stationary guides to prevent
the cutters from injuring the upper leathers.
In witness whereof, I, the said Thomas Greenwood, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, the Tenth day of August, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-seven.
THOMAS GREENWOOD. (L.S.).