An Improved Process of Manufacture of Seamless Tight Fitting and Loose Fitting Mantles and other Garments.
Year: 1895

page_text: Date of Application, 12th Mar., 1895-Accepted, 7th Mar.,
1896
An Improved Process of Manufacture of Seamless Tight Fitting and
Loose Fitting Mantles and other Garments.
I, SIMON LEWIN, of 11 Kammerstrasse, Berlin, in the German Empire, Tailor,
do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to
be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement :-
It has always been considered necessary hitherto in the dress and mantle making
trades, where tight fitting garments were to be produced, to make them in parts,
inserting wherever required gussets or slips cut out in such a manner as to fit the
curves of the upper or lower parts of the body, at the back and sides (as the case
might be) so as to ensure a good fit of the bodice or like upper garment.
The improved method herein described enables the seams at the sides and back
of the upper part of the body to be dispensed with, and only requires the short
shoulder seams to be retained.
A piece of material is placed closely round the body of the person for whom
the mantle or the like is to be made, or round a dummy, and fastened along the
middle line in front, and over the shoulders, where it is gathered up. Then the
material is cut from the lower edge up to the waist, as illustrated in the drawings.
These cuts now afford room for the lower part of the body, and the cut or divided
portions of the cloth accordingly expand within the limits determined by the cuts.
The openings for the neck and arms are then made in the usual way. The
lapels formed by the long cut in the lower part of the mantle spread out
sufficiently for the insertion of one or more gussets; and the material so prepared
for stitching is then removed from the dummy, or from the body of the person for
whom the garment is intended, and placed upon paper or the like, so that a pattern
for future use may be cut from it.
The invention will be best understood by reference to the accompanying
drawings, in which-
Figure 1 represents a pattern cut in accordance with the principles of the
invention, as above stated, while-
Figure 2 shows a gusset, such as it is proposed to use in carrying out the
invention.
The dotted lines in Figure 1 indicate what the appearance of the garment is
after the insertion of the gusset.
When one such a pattern as this has been cut, it is no longer necessary to carry
out the improved method of "fitting" the garment to the wearer's body, or to use
a dummy for the purpose, as all that need be done is to place the pattern upon the
cloth or material to be cut. The mantle or other garment is then cut from the
pattern and stitched together and finished in the customary manner.
The mantle etc. made in accordance with this invention though free from any
seam in the back, will fit just as well as one stitched down the back and sides.
Hitherto the view has generally been entertained that no satisfactory "fit"
could be produced by omitting the side and back seams above the waist; and the
necessary hollow or extended portions of a garment, had, in consequence, always
to be formed by the insertion of additional longitudinal pieces. By this improved
method the same effect is produced by entirely dispensing with the seams and extra
pieces in the part of the body above the waist, gussets or flaps being inserted

page_text: below the waist only. A particular advantage of this process is, that far less
material is required in adopting it, while the cost of labour also is correspondingly
reduced.
It is obvious that the application of my invention differs in no essential feature
with respect to mantles or other garments which are not tight fitting or which in
parts are not so.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that
what I claim is-
Improvements in the method of making mantles and other garments, the main
feature of which is that without the employment of any seams above the waist, in
either the back or sides, the garment is made tight or proper fitting by the simple
insertion of one or more pointed gussets in cuts of corresponding shape made on
either side in the vicinity of the hips.
Dated this 10th - L 1005
MARKS & CLERK,
18 Southampton Buildings, London, W.C., and
13 Temple Street, Birmingham, Agents for the Applicant.