A NEW OR IMPROVED FABRIC, AND IMPROVED SEWING AND STITCHING MACHINE ESPECIALLY APPLI- PRO
Year: 1858

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Michael Henry, of 84, Fleet Street, in the City of
London, Patent Agent, for the Invention of "A NEW OR IMPROVED
FABRIC, AND IMPROVED SEWING AND STITCHING MACHINE ESPECIALLY APPLI-
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Michael Henry at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 26th
May 1858.
1, MICHAEL HENRY, of 84, Fleet Street, in the City of London, Patent
Agent, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "A NEW OR
IMPROVED FABRIC, AND IMPROVED SEWING AND STITCHING MACHINE ESPECIALLY
APPLICABLE FOR MANUFACTURING THE SAME," (communicated to me by J. Imbs,
a foreigner residing abroad,) to be as follows:-
The fabric is manufactured by taking textile materials as they come from
the carding engine, for example, and arranging them in layers superimposed
to the desired thickness, and then subjecting them to the action of needles
(to which they are preferably led by guide rollers), whereby the layers
and also their component filaments are stitched together, the fabric is
then fulled and finished off.
For the stitching it is preferred to employ an improved sewing and stitching

page_text: machine, wherein two sets of threads are used, which may be called warp
and weft, the needles for the warp threads being arranged and combined
like a reed or comb moving suitably in order to traverse the material, and
making loops, into which another needle, serving as a shuttle, inserts a
weft thread.
The materials are held in a rigid frame or guides, having an opening in the
upper piece to guide the needles to the loop, and allow of their placing the
thread properly. The warp needles are formed with two eyes, connected at
one side by a groove, this prevents the thread from uniting; and when the
needle is drawn back to form a loop, the thread on the side opposite the
groove coming against the material forms a regular loop, while that sunk
in the groove comes down without forming one. A small independent
frame may be used for a "fleece," or piece of material to travel in by
fluted rollers as the work proceeds.
In one arrangement of the machine motion is transmitted from a band and
pulley through a train of wheels to a shaft from cranks, on which up and
down motion is communicated to the reed or comb of needles, (supplied with
.thread from reels, and moving in guide ways ;) and the gearing also drives a
wheel carrying a stud, actuating a feel wheel, which (by an endless web
travelling on rollers worked by the gearing) so delivers the material that at
every up stroke the needles may have a fresh surface to act on. As the
"comb" descends, a stud on it comes in contact with a projection at the end
of a lever acting on an arm, to disengage the driving band; while stops move
out to arrest the descent of the needles, a weft thread is inserted into its needle,
and a picker or rod shoots it through the warp loops, lifting the arm which
stopped the band to throw it again into gear. A catch drops to hold the
weft rod in position, and another keeps the disengaging arm in place,
while the pieces which stopped the warp needles are withdrawn and allow
them to descend and be worked by the cranks; as they rise, the projection
yields without moving its lever, and may be replaced by a weight, the catch
acting on the disengaging arm may be worked by connecting it with
another fitting into a groove in the lever; the aria may disengage the band
by a weight, it is connected to a forked lever, clntching and moved by pulling
the weft rod which drives the needle. The material is thus crossed by two
sets of threads, one lengthwise, the other breadthwise, and the work as
done is rolled on a cylinder driven from the feed-wheel shaft.
The machine may be arranged horizontally, vertically, or in any other
position.

page_text: I do not restrict myself to the means described for performing the stitching.
Articles made of this fabric appear as if formed of a single piece, the
threads being hidden in the felting.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Michael Henry in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
26th November 1858.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, MICHAEL
HENRY, of 84, Fleet Street, in the City of London, Patent Ageut, send
greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-sixth day of May, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-eight, in the twenty-first year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the
said Michael Heury, Her special licence that I, the said Michael Henry, my
executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Michael
Henry, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during
the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise,
and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the
Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "A NEW OR IMPROVED
FABRIC, AND IMPROVED SEWING AND STITCHING MACHINE, ESPECIALLY APPLICABLE
FOR MANUFACTURING THE SAME," a communication from J. Imbs, a foreigner
residing abroad; upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said
Michael Henry, my executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing
under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly
describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner
the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great
Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately after
the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that 1, the said Michael Henry, do hereby declare
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement thereof, reference being had to the accompanying Drawings, and
to the letters and figures marked thereou, that is to say:-
The fabric is manufactured by taking the materials as they come from the

page_text: carding engine, for example, and arranging them in layers superimposed to
the desired thickness, and then subjecting them to the action of needles (to
which they are preferably led by guide rollers), whereby the layers and also
their component filaments are stitched together; the fabric is then fulled and
finished off. For the stitching it is preferred to employ an improved sewing
or stitching machine, wherein two sets of threads are used, which may be
called warp and weft, the needles for the warp threads being arranged and
combined into a reed or comb, moving suitably in order to traverse the
material, and making loops, into which another needle, serving as a shuttle,
inserts the weft thread. The materials or fleeces are held in a rigid frame
or in guides, having an opening in the upper piece to guide the needles to
the loop, and allow of their placing the thread properly. The warp needles
are formed with two eyes, connected at one side by a groove, which prevents
the thread from uniting when the needle is drawn back to produce the loops;
the thread on the side opposite the groove coming against the material
forms a regular loop, while that sunk in the groove comes down without
forming one. Small frames are used in or through which, but independently
thereof, the "fleeces" or pieces of material travel, being inoved forward or
delivered by fluted rollers as the work proceeds.
In one arrangement of the machine motion is transmitted from a band aud
pulley through a train of wheels to a shaft from cranks, on which upand down
motion is communicated to the reed or comb (supplied with thread from reels
or a roller, and moving in guideways), and the gearing also drives a wheel
carrying a stud for actuating a feed wheel which, by an endless web travelling
on rollers worked by the gearing, so delivers the material or fleece, that at
every up stroke the needles may have a fresh surface to act on. As the comb
descends, a stud on it comes in contact with a projection at the end of a lever
acting on au arm to disengage the driving band, while stops move out to arrest
the descent of the needles; a weft thread is inserted into its needle, and a picker
or rod shoots it through the warp loops, lifting the arm which stopped the
band to throw it again into gear; a catch drops to hold the weft rod in
position, and another keeps the disengaging arin in place, while the pieces
which stopped the warp needles are withdrawn, and allow them to descend
and be worked by the crauks; as they rise, the projection yields without
moving its lever, and may be restored to place by a weight. The catch acting
on the disengaging arm may be worked by connecting it with another fitting
into a groove in the lever (and which arm may disconnect the band by a
weight); it is attached to a forked lever clutching (and moved by pulling) the

page_text: rod which drives the weft needle. The inaterial is thus crossed by two sets
of threads, oue lengthwise, the other breadthwise, and the work as done is
rolled on a cylinder driven from the feed wheel shaft.
The machine may
be in any desired position, and arranged vertically, horizontally, or obliquely.
I do not restrict myself to the particular mechanical means described for
performing the stitching. Articles or pieces so made appear as if of a single
piece, the threads being hidden in the felting.
The accompanying Drawings represent the foregoing arrangement of
machinery, of which, in Sheet L., Figure 1 is a side elevation, and Figure 2
a plan; and in Sheet II., Figure 1 is a front, and Figure 2 a transverse
sectional elevation. The four Diagrams, Figure 3 shew four different
positions of the needle with respect to the fabric and the holding frames, to
illustrate the mode of forming the stitch. The first or warp set of threads
are supplied from a roller or set of reels 10, 10, to a series of needles, one of
which is represented in the two views, Figure 4. Sheet. II., having two eyes,
one near the barb, and the other a little distance from it; these needles arc
connected together so as to form a reed or comb B. A, A, is the framework
of the machine. Figure 5 represents the mode in which the reed B is fitted
in the slides B¹ of the castings or framework A. The weft threads are shot by
a long needle a, through the warp loops or sheds. Motion is cominunicated
to the machinery by a strap passing over a pulley and shaft X (in bear-
ings S), which, by gear wheels 2, 2, on each side of the frame, transmit
motion to intermediate wheels 3, 3, ou the axes of which are toothed
wheels 4, 4, driving (through gear wheels 11, 11, and 0, 0,) shafts I, I,
actuating cranks E, E, and connecting rods H, H, which communicate up-
and-down motion to the reed B (connected to H, H, by links g); one of the
wheels 4 also drives a toothed wheel O', having on its boss a stud, which at
every revolution moves forward one of the pins t,on a wheel D. The materials
to be stitched are thus regularly delivered to the needles, a fresh length being
brought forward with each descent of the reed B, so that as it comes up again
its needles meet a fresh length to nct upon, and make a fresh stitch. Ata
particular moment of the drop-stroke, when the needle is in the position shewn
in the second Diagram, Figure 3, that is to say, when the warp loops are
formed, the stop comes in contact with a projection, and disengages the
arm or lever L, stops the reed B, and starts the rod T and needle a, as to be
presently explained, at the same time levers q, centered in the blocks c, come
under the studs i,and so intercept the reed's downward motion. The workman
places a thread in the barb of the needle a, and drives the rod T, thereby
shooting the weft thread through the warp loops, and raising the arm L to

page_text: throw the strap into gear again. By the same action a catch m is brought
down, and holds the bar a, thereby stopping the rod T till the parts are thrown
out of gear afresh; the catch N comes down on the stud h, and holds the
arm L in place, while the rod T pushes the levers q aside, which oscillate on
their centres q', and allow the reed B to be brought down by the connecting
rods H, thus permitting them to continue their action, which had been
momentarily checked. After the reed B has reached the end of its travel,
as in the fourth position, Figure 3, the stud moves one of the pins t forward;
and delivers a fresh length of fabric, which is conducted by the endless web R,
the rollers whereof are actuated by wheels 5,in gear with wheels 6,7, driving
the rollers C, C. R' is a cylinder for receiving the work as completed,
caused to revolve by gearing 8, 9, actuated from the shaft of wheel D.
The reed then travels up again, lifting the projection as it passes, and a
fresh stitch is begun; the stitches are thus worked in soundly, and their
distance regulated as desired, and the stitching will be completely performed,
even should the material be of a nature to offer but little resistance, as it is
kept steady between guide frames G,G', the upper of which G has an opening
formed in it for the weft needle to pass. The projection is at the end of a
lever 1, and is provided with a weight K', so that when raised by the reed in
its
up stroke it will not draw the lever with it, but is restored to position by
the weight. When the reed descends, and the projection is pulled down,
it will draw the lever with it, thus acting on the catches N and N¹, and
regulating the disengagement of the arm L. the stoppage of the reed B, and
the starting of the rod T, and needle a (which is drawn forward by the
counterweight ). When the arm L is liberated from its catch, it eflects the
disengagement by means of the weight K fitted to the knee piece L'. The
catches N,N, are both connected to a boss or collar d, and N' is formed with
a feather, which takes into the groove of the slotted lever 1, and so regu-
lates the play of the catch N during the foregoing action. F is a clutch for
engaging & disengaging the driving strap. fis a lever, forked at one end,
clutching the rod T, and connected to the lever L by a rod n; this lever f
works on its centre in the upright M, when pressed by the bar a on driving
the rod T, which draws weft needle and thread along with it. y is a link
connecting to L; v, bracket carrying catch m, and grooved for rod T to
slide through; a, guide block at further end of G. In this arrangement,
therefore, the fabric is stiffened between two sets of threads connected to each
other, some lengthwise and some breadthwise, thereby imparting considerable
strength thereto without affecting its regularity, and preparing it for sub-
sequent treatment, with no danger of its becoming undone. The machinery

page_text: may be arranged in a horizontal, inclined, or other position, and adapted for
any dimensions of fleece or material.
The methods of actuating the rod, and moving the material and guide
frames, and the nodes of driving the parts relatively, may be varied or
modified without affecting the nature of the Invention; and I do not
restrict myself to the precise shapes represented in respect of my machine,
and the parts thereof.
Fabrics manufactured according to this Invention, that is to say, by
super-imposing the layers, stitching them together by machinery, and fulling,
have all the desirable qualities of woven cloth, and are as cheap as felts,
The machinery described stitches together simultaneously a number of
fleeces, whether of stiff or supple material, using numerous needles to form
sound stitches, whatever the sort or quality of thread employed.
Having now described the nature of the said Invention, and in what
manner the same may be performed, I declare that what I claim is,-
First, as a new manufacture, the new or improved fabric produced sub-
stantially as described, whatever the means of stitching employed in manu-
facturing the same.
Second, the manufacture of goods according to this method (which have
the appearance of seamless goods, or as if of a single piece, the threads
employed being concealed by the fulling).
Third, combining or constructing sewing and stitching machinery, in
which a considerable number of needles are used united into a comb or
reed, and so actuated as to pass through the material held in a frame; and
a needle is employed acting as a shuttle (that is to say), shooting the thread
into loops formed by the reed, two sets of threads being combined so as to
produce a strong stitch, and the material held firmly between rigid frames
formed with suitable openings.
Fourth, the combination of parts of machinery arranged and operating
substantially as described, and especially the general arrangement and
combination of parts of machine, particularly herein-before described and
represented in the Drawings.
Fifth, the particular arrangement of small frames, between which a length,
lap, or fleece of material is caused to travel, independently of the frames,
by means of two pairs of fluted rollers, as the work proceeds.
Sixth, the particular arrangement of frame G, in such manner that the
weft needle may be kept continuously guided through each loop, while the
weft thread is allowed to apply itself on the inaterial, as explained in and
in reference to the Diagrams, Figure 3, Sheet II.

page_text: Seventh, the arangement of needles (formed into a reed), each with two
eyes, connected at one side by a groove, to prevent the threads uniting into
one, and so that when the needle is withdrawn to form the loop, the thread
on the opposite side the groove may come or rub against the fabric, and
form a regular loop, while the thread kept in the groove comes down
without forming a loop.
In witness whereof, I, the said Michael Henry, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Twenty-fifth day of November, in the year One
thousand eight hundred and fifty-eight.
Witness,
CHAS. H. LANGMEAD.
M. HENRY. (L.S.)