IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES
Year: 1868

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to John Henry Johnson, of 47, Lincoln's Inn
Fields, in the County of Middlesex, Gentleman, for the Invention
of "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES." -A communication from
abroad by George Rehfuss, of Philadelphia, in the United States of
America.
Sealed the 5th September 1868, and dated the 31st March 1868.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said John Henry Johnson
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition,
on the 31st March 1868.
I, JOHN HENRY JOHNSON, of 47, Lincoln's Inn Fields, in the County
of Middlesex, Gentleman, do hereby declare the nature of the said
Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES," a communication to
me from abroad by George Rehfuss, of Philadelphia, in the United States
of America, to be as follows:-

page_text: of button holes and other edges of fabrics, and for producing what is
known as the "lock stitch" for ordinary sewing machine work, the said
mechanism being either so combined in one machine as to enable it to
perform each description of work at the will of the operator by very
simple adjustments, or the two arrangements of mechanical parts may be
used in separate or independent machines. The button hole mechanism
consists of an eye-pointed looper working in conjunction with the reci-
procating needle so as to effect an interlocking of two threads, the lower
one of which is laid in a looped form over the edge of the fabric at each
stitch by a hook attached to the tubular spindle or "sleeve" herein-after
referred to, having a circular reciprocating motion round the needle.
This loop is secured to the upper surface of the fabric by the passage
through it of the needle thread.
According to this Invention the arm which carries the looper vibrates
on an adjustable plate secured to the under side of the bed plate; this
adjustable plate pivots on a fixed centre pin, and is provided with a
curved slot through which a set screw passes. By slackening the set
screw and moving the adjustable plate the vibrating looper arm may be
brought either into or out of gear with its actuating scroll cam on the
main shaft according as the button hole stitch is required or not. A
fixed stop on the bed plate limits the forward movement of the adjustable
plate and ensures the lever arm which actuates the looper being in the
proper position as regards its cam. When the looper arm is moved back
or out of action it. is confined for the time being between a rib and a
blade spring on the under side of the bed plate. With regard to the
"lock stitch" mechanism a shuttle carrier (either vibrating on a centre
or reciprocating in guides) is used, which will maintain the shuttle
against a vertical face plate in its proper vertical and longitudinal and
lateral positions without the necessity for a groove or shuttle race. This
shuttle carrier is provided with a ledge on which the shuttle rests, an
overlapping lip for engaging into a notch or recess in the fore part of
the shuttle, a moveable lip worked or adjusted by a lever for keeping
the rear part of the shuttle in position, and a blade spring backed by a
projection on the carrier for confining the opposite end of the shuttle.
The shuttle itself is provided with an adjustable spindle or its equivalent
having a hole therein for the passage of the shuttle thread through it,
the object of such spindle and hole being to regulate the tension of and
guide the shuttle thread, the tension being varied by turning more or

page_text: less the spindle and causing the thread to make one or more turns, as
the case may be, round the said spindle before leaving the shuttle. This
shuttle carrier is vibrated by means of a rod which is jointed at one end
to the carrier and supported at the opposite end on a pin in lugs in the
bed plate, a long slot being made in the rod for the pin to pass through.
Near the middle of this rod there is fitted an antifriction roller engaging
with a cam groove in a disc mounted on the main shaft. This disc is
adjustable longitudinally along the shaft so as to be engaged with or
disengaged from the actuating rod of shuttle carrier according as the
machine is required for "lock stitch" sewing or not. When out of
action the shuttle carrier is reversed or turned down on its pivot, and
is maintained in that position by a recessed blade spring engaging with
a tooth or projection on the boss of the shuttle carrier. The needle
carrier of the machine reciprocates through a tubular spindle or "sleeve,"
which carries the hook for laying the loop of under thread over the edge
of the fabric when stitching the edges of button holes or other edges
of fabrics. This "sleeve" when making the button-hole stitch is caused
to rotate partially round the needle carrier as a centre, the said motion
being obtained from a pin in the side of the needle carrier working
along a spiral slot in the sleeve, but the said sleeve is maintained
stationary (as regards its vertical position) in the end of the fixed arm
of the machine by a hinged arm which enters an annular groove in the
sleeve and prevents it from rising or falling. This hinged or adjustable
arm when turned back out of the annular groove releases the sleeve
and allows it to reciprocate vertically with the needle carrier, it being in
that case pushed up the needle carrier, and coupled therewith by a
pinching screw for the purpose. Thus when the lock stitch is required
to be made the sleeve with its hook may be readily moved out of the
way. 'The said hinged or adjustable arm is maintained fixed for the
time being in either position by the action of a spring bolt which
engages with the pivot end of the said arm.
As it is important that the extent of the projection of the feeding
surface above the cloth plate should be regulated to suit different classes
of fabrics to be operated upon, it is proposed to provide for such adjust-
ment by the following arrangement:-The feeder is slotted or forked
at its lower end and works upon a fixed pin or pivot which serves as a
centre of vibration, whilst the slot allows of the rising and falling of the
feeder. This feeder is actuated by a bar, the opposite end of which is

page_text: forked and embraces an adjustable eccentric pin, whilst its intermediate
portion is bent to fit onto a cranked portion of the main driving shaft.
As the shaft revolves its crank imparts through the bar the requisite
to-and-fro and up-and-down motions to the feeder, and by simply turning
the eccentric pin the corresponding end of the bar will be either raised
or lowered, whereupon the opposite end with the feeding surface itself
will be simultaneously lowered or raised.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said John Henry Johnson in the Great Seal Patent
⚫ Office on the 30th September 1868.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JOHN
HENRY JOHNSON, of 47, Lincoln's Inn Fields, in the County of
Middlesex, Gentleman, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Thirty-first day of March, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-eight, in the thirty-first
year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and
grant unto me, the said John Henry Johnson, Her special license that "I,
the said John Henry Johnson, my executors, administrators, and assigns,
or such others as I, the said John Henry Johnson, my executors,
administrators, or assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others,
from time to time and at all times thereafter during the term therein
expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend,
within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel
Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING
MACHINES," a communication from abroad by George Rehfuss, of
Philadelphia, in the United States of America, upon the condition
(amongst others) that I, the said John Henry Johnson, my executors
or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my hand and
seal, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the
said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed,
and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within
six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said
Letters Patent.

page_text: NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said John Henry Jonnson, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in
and by the following statement reference being had to the accom-
panying Drawings, and to the letters and figures marked thereon, that
is to say :-
The said Invention relates to certain peculiar constructions, arrange-
ments, and combinations of mechanism for overstitching or ornamenting
the edges of button holes and other edges of fabrics, and for producing
what is known as the "lock stitch" for ordinary sewing machine work,
the said mechanism being either so combined in one machine as to
enable it to perform each description of work at the will of the
operator by very simple adjustments, or the two arrangements of
mechanical parts may be used in separate or independent machines.
The various improvements, herein-after fully described, consist,―
Firstly. Of a plate so secured to the frame of the machine that the
looping arm hung to the said plate can be moved away from the scroll
cam by which it is caused to vibrate.
Secondly. Of a stop so arranged in respect to the above plate as to
limit the forward movement of the looper arm, as hereafter described.
Thirdly. Of a rib and spring on the base plate of the machine for
confining the looper arm.
Fourthly. Of a peculiar construction and arrangement of that class
of shuttle carrier (either reciprocating or vibrating) wherein in con-
junction with a vertical plate secured to the frame of the machine the
said shuttle is maintained in its proper vertical, longitudinal, and lateral
position, as herein-after described.
Fifthly. In the combination with the said peculiar vibrating shuttle
carrier of a rod hinged to the frame of the machine, and a grooved
disc on the main driving shaft, the whole being so arranged that
when the said disc is moved forward so as to control the rod it will
impart a vibrating motion to the carrier, and so that when moved back
it will release the said rod and permit the carrier to fall.
Sixthly. In the combination of an arm and spring bolt, arranged
as hereafter described, for retaining and releasing a sleeve of the
needle bar.

page_text: Seventhly. In the combination of a sewing machine shuttle with a
spindle having a hole or its equivalent for guiding and giving tension
to the thread.
Eighthly. Of an arrangement for varying or adjusting the extent of
projection of the feeding surface above the cloth plate according to the
class of goods operated upon.
And in order that the said Invention may be fully understood I
shall now proceed more particularly to describe the same, and for that
purpose shall refer to the several Figures on the annexed Sheet of
Drawings, the same letters of reference indicating corresponding parts
in all the corresponding Figures.
Figure 1 of the Drawings is a side view, partly in section, illustrating
the improvements; Figure 2 is an inverted plan view of the same;
Figure 3 is a transverse sectional view on the line 1, 2, (Figure 1);
Figures 4 and 5 are transverse sections (drawn to an enlarged scale) on
the line 3, 4, (Figure 1) and looking in the same direction as Figure 3;
Figures 6, 7, 8, and 9 are detached views drawn to an enlarged scale,
and illustrating a portion of the Invention; Figures 10 and 11 are
enlarged detached views of a portion of Figure 3; Figures 12, 13, 14,
and 15 are detached views, also enlarged, of a portion of the machine;
Figures 16, 17, 18, and 19 are diagrams illustrating the method of
forming the stitch; and Figures 20 and 21 are enlarged views of the
shuttle.
A is the base plate of the machine in suitable projections a, beneath
which turns the main driving shaft B, provided at the rear end of the
machine with a grooved pulley b for receiving the band, and with a fly
wheel b'. To this shaft B is secured a scroll cam C, into the groove of
which projects a pin on the short arm of the needle lever D, which is
arranged to vibrate on a pin d secured to the stationary arm E, the latter
being secured to or forming a part of the base plate A. Another scroll
cam F is secured to the shaft B, and into the groove of this cam projects
a rollere on the projection f of the looping arm G, this arm being
arranged to vibrate on a pin h secured to the projection i of a plate I,
which is so confined to the under side of the base plate by a pin j that
it can be moved laterally on the said pin as a centre, when the
handled set screw k is loose the said set screw passing through a curved
slot in the plate I and into the base plate. So long as the lever G and
plate I are in the position shewn by black lines in Figure 2, the roller e

page_text: is in the groove of the scroll cam F, consequently on turning the
shaft B the looping arm G will vibrate on. the pin h of the plate I.:
When no use is required for the looping arm however, the set screw k is
loosened, and the plate. I and the said arm are moved to the position"
shewn by red lines in Figure 2, which movement withdraws the roller e
from the groove of the cam F, and consequently the vibration of the
looping arm G ceases, although the driving shaft continues to revolve.
When the looping arm is in the position shewn by red lines it is
confined between a small rib j¹ on the base plate and a curved spring i,
so that even if the plate I should not be secured by the set screw k
the looping lever G will be so held that its dislodgement will require
a slight effort. When it is necessary for the looping arm to be put into
active operation the plate I is moved towards the shaft B until arrested
by a stop h' on the base plate, which stop determines the exact position
which the looping arm has to assume for active duty. Near the front
end of the machine and to the under side of the base plate A is secured
a vertical plate H, shewn by dotted lines in the enlarged views
Figures 4 and 5, and by plain lines in Figures 1, 2, and 3, and at the
rear of this plate a disc J is so secured to the shaft B by a thumb-
screw k¹ that it can be adjusted longitudinally on the shaft and secured
after adjustment (see Figure 1). In the front face of this disc J is a
scroll groove m, into which when the disc is moved forward fits a
pin m on a rod K (see Figure 5), the said pin being provided with a
suitable antifriction roller. The slotted end of this rod K slides on a
pin p between two projections p¹ on the under side of the base plate,
and the opposite end of this rod is connected to a pin q on the shuttle
carrier L, which is arranged to vibrate on a pin q¹ secured to the vertical
plate H.
This shuttle carrier is of peculiar construction, which will be best
observed on reference to Figures 6, 7, 8, and 9, Figure 6 representing
the carrier as viewed from the front end of the machine, Figure 7
a plan view of Figure 6, Figure 8 a rear view of the carrier, and
Figure 9 an outline of the shuttle looking towards the front of the same.
The carrier has a ledge n, on which the points n' and n of the shuttle
bear (see Figure 9). A projection 8 on the carrier terminates at the top
in a curved lip & which rests in the recessed portions of the shuttle, and
a lever is hung to a pin at the back of the carrier, the short arm of
this lever being bent at the end, so as to overlap the rounded end of

page_text: the shuttle at (Figure 9) when the shuttle is in operation; this lever &
can be so moved however that the bent end of its short arm may assume
the position shewn at x (Figure 9.) It should be understood that the
long arm of the lever is made elastic and has at the end a projection
which will fit into a recess in the carrier when the lip of the lever
overhangs the portion of the shuttle, so that a slight effort is necessary
to dislodge the lever from this position. The movement of this lever
is limited by the projections and u¹ of the carrier. It will now be
seen that the shuttle is held up in its proper position by the ledge n of
the carrier, and is prevented from rising from its proper position partly
by the lip of the projection & and partly by the lip of the lever t.
In its longitudinal position the shuttle is held in one direction by the
lip adapted to the recess 8 of the shuttle, and in the opposite direction
by a light spring secured to the carrier and having its outward move-
ment limited by the projection u of the carrier. The shuttle is confined
laterally between the rear face of the plate H and the front of the
carrier. It will now be seen that the shuttle depends on the carrier
alone for its maintenance in a proper vertical and longitudinal position
and for its proper lateral position on the carrier and plate H combined.
Although thus confined, the shuttle, owing to the spring v, will, the
instant it begins to penetrate the looper thread, yield and become so
loose in its bearings as to permit the thread to pass freely between it
and the carrier.
S (Figures 20 and 21) represents the shuttle drawn to an enlarged
scale, Figure 20 being a rear view and Figure 21 a sectional plan view
of the same. One end of the shuttle case is adapted for the reception
of a circular spool or bobbin z, and one side of the said case towards
the pointed end of the same is bevelled or curved, its opposite side being
straight, as shewn in Figure 21. Within the shuttle case is an opening z¹
for the passage of the thread 13 from the spool, and crossing this
opening and arranged to turn in the case is a spindle T, against which
bears one end of a spring 14, which is secured at its opposite end to
the shuttle case. Near to the upper end of the spindle there is a
hole 15, and against the side of the spool bears one end of a flat
spring V, which may be turned to one side to allow the spool to be
removed and replaced. In the end of the lower journal of the spindle
there is a recess 16 for the admission of the end of a suitable key or
instrument, by which the spindle may be turned. The thread from the

page_text: spool is passed through the hole 15 in the spindle, which is turned so
that the thread may be wound upon it, the pressure of the spring 14
being sufficient to prevent the spindle from being turned by the tension
of the thread. The tension of the thread may be regulated with the
greatest nicety by means of this device, which can be applied to shuttles
differing in form and construction from that described.
In Figure 5 the shuttle and shuttle carrier are shewn as arranged for
active duty, the scroll groove in the disc J imparting such a movement
to the rod K that a vibrating motion is communicated to the carrier L,
the shuttle consequently oscillating in the arc of a circle. When
however no use is required for the shuttle the disc J is moved back on
the shaft B, and the rod K being thus freed from the control of the disc
may be depressed to the position shewn in Figure 4, when the carrier
can be turned upside down, as shewn in that Figure, and held in this
position by its projection w fitting into a recess formed in a spring wo¹
secured to the plate H. It should be here understood that when the
work plate M is removed from the base plate, so as to uncover the
opening in the same, the shuttle may be detached from the carrier and
elevated through the said opening after the lever t has been so operated
that its lip t is moved from x to x³, Figure 9.
N (Figure 3) is the feed bar which bears against the front of the
plate H, and the upper serrated end of which passes through a slot in
the work plate adjacent to the needle hole in the same. The lower
forked end of this bar slides on and is guided by the pin q', by which
the shuttle carrier is hung to the plate H. To this bar is connected one
end of a rod N¹, midway or thereabouts between the opposite ends of
which is formed a bearing for the cranked portion B' of the main driving
shaft B; the opposite end of this rod N¹ is forked for the reception of
a pin y on a small spindle y' forming a part of but situated eccentrically
with the pin y, this spindle being arranged to turn in projections on
the base plate, and being secured after adjustment by a set screw y². .
A spiral spring 2 tends to force the feed bar in the direction of the
arrow, Figure 3, and the cranked portion B' of the shaft B combined
with this spring imparts the necessary combined vibrating and vertical
reciprocating movement to the upper end of the feed bar, the extent
of this movement and consequently the length of the stitch being
regulated by a pin on an adjustable lever P hung to the plate H.
It is important that the extent of the projection of the upper end

page_text: of the feed bar through the work plate should be regulated to suit
different classes of fabrics to be operated upon: This is readily accom-
plished by turning the spindle y' and thereby causing the eccentric
pin y of the same to raise or lower the forked end of the rod N', and
consequently elevate or depress the feed bar. The forked end of the
vibrating needle arm D is adapted to a pin on the needle har Q, which
is arranged to reciprocate in a projection Q' of the stationary arm E,
and under the circumstances described hereafter in a sleeve R, which
can be either held stationary or can have an oscillating movement in
the projection Q' of the said stationary arm E in a manner which I shall
now proceed to describe, reference being had to Figures 12, 13, 14,
and 15.
The sleeve R, where it passes through the projection Q of the
stationary frame, has an annular groove (Figures 13 and 15) for receiving
a portion of the arm 5 which fits in a slot of the said projection and
turns on a pin 6. This arm can be moved to either of the two positions
shown in Figures 12 and 14, and retained in these positions by a spring
bolt 7 in a manner which will be readily understood by referring to
these Figures. A spiral groove R' is cut through the sleeve R for the
reception of the pin on the needle bar, which pin acting on the spiral
groove of the sleeve when the latter is prevented from moving vertically
by the arm 5 causes the sleeve R to oscillate as the needle bar recipro-
cates. When the sleeve is not required to oscillate, the arm 5 is moved
outwards to the position shown in Figure 14, thereby releasing the
sleeve, which is moved upwards on the needle bar .and confined to the
same by a detachable pin, so as to become essentially a part of and
reciprocate with the said bar.
When the machine has to be used for forming the ordinary lock stitch
the disc J is moved forward so that its groove will control the bar K,
which as well as the shuttle carrier and its shuttle are in the position
shown in Figure 5; the looping arm G is moved back to the position
shown in Figure 2 by red lines so as to be beyond the control of the
scroll cam F, and the sleeve R is adjusted in the manner described, so
as to reciprocate with the needle bar without oscillating. The machine
is then set in operation and the lock-stitch is produced by causing the
shuttle to pass through the loop of the needle thread. When, however,
the button-hole stitch has to be formed the sleeve R is so adjusted that
while the needle bar can reciprocate freely through it an oscillating

page_text: movement is imparted to the said sleeve. The disc J is then drawn back
so that its control of the bar K ceases and the shuttle carrier falls to the
position shown in Figure 4, where it is retained by the spring to. The
looping arm is then mooved to the position shown by black lines in
Figure 2 so as to be under the control of the scroll cam F. Thread 10,
from a spool 8 on the under side of the base plate A, is conveyed to
the eye of the inclined and pointed looper 9 with which the arm G is -
provided, and thread 11 is conveyed from a spool 12 on the stationary
arm E in the direction pointed out to the eye of the needle 17, when
the operation, best understood on reference to the diagrams, Figures 16,
17, 18, and 19, will take place. It should be understood that the sleeve
is provided at its lower end with a loop catcher 18 (Figure 18), the
hooked end of which oscillates in the arc of a circle of which the
needle 17 is the centre. The needle 17 having penetrated the fabric g
at a short distance from edge of. the same the inclined looper 9,
moving in the direction of the arrow (Figure 16), passes through the
loop of the needle thread below the fabric and continues its course
outside the edge of the same as the needle 17 begins to rise. When the
needle and looper have arrived at the position shown in Figure 17 the
loop catcher 18 seizes the loop of under thread, drags it across the edge
of and lays it nearly horizontally above the fabric so that it is in a
proper position for the needle 17 (which has now been clevated) to
descend through it (the loop of under thread) and through the fabric,
in doing which the looper 9 recedes preparatory to again passing through
the loop of needle thread below the fabric, on the edge of which the
button-hole stitch, shewn in Figure 19, is thus formed by the combined
movements of the looper 9, needle 17, and loop catcher 18, in a manner
readily understood from the diagrams by those familiar with sewing
machines.
It will be evident that many parts of the above-described machine
may be considerably altered and modified without departing from the
main feature of the Invention; a carrier L may be made to reciprocate
instead of vibrate, and yet be provided with the peculiar means for
maintaining the shuttle in its proper position, vertically, longitudinally,
and laterally, in conjunction with the plate H.
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of the
said Invention, and the manner in which the same is or may be used or
carried into effect, I would obsérve in conclusion that what I consider to

page_text: be novel and original, and therefore claim as the Invention secured to me
by the herein-before in part recited Letters Patent is,--
First. The application and use of the looping arm G caused by a
scroll cam F or its equivalent to vibrate on a plate I which is so secured
to the frame of the machine that the said arm can be moved away and
freed from the control of the said cam or its equivalent, all substantially
as and for the purpose herein-before described.
Second. The application and use of the stop h¹ so arranged in respect
to the plate I as to limit the forward movement of the looping arm, in
the manner and for the purpose herein-before described.
Third. Confining the looping arm, when the latter is moved back,
between a rib j¹ and a spring i¹ on the base plate, as herein-before
described.
Fourth. The peculiar construction of shuttle carrier and parts con-
nected therewith, as herewith described and illustrated by Figures 6,
7, 8, and 9 of the Drawings annexed.
Fifth. The combination with the vibrating shuttle carrier L of a
ledge n for supporting the shuttle, a lip s¹ for overlapping the shuttle at
the recess 82, and the moveable lip t for overlapping the shuttle near the
rear, all substantially as herein before described.
Sixth. Confining the shuttle longitudinally to the carrier between the
lips and the spring v backed by a projection on the carrier, all substan-
tially as herein-before described.
Seventh. The combination of the vibrating shuttle carrier L with a
rod K hinged to the frame and a grooved disc J, the whole being so
arranged that when the disc is moved forward so as to control the rod K
it will impart a vibrating motion to the carrier, and so that when moved
back it will release the said rod and permit the carrier to fall to the
position shown in Figure 4, as herein-before described.
Eighth. The application and use of the arm 5 in combination with the
spring bolt 7, the whole being arranged for retaining and releasing
the sleeve R, substantially as herein-before described.
Ninth. The combination, substantially as and for the purpose herein
set forth, of a sewing machine shuttle with its spindle T, having
a hole 15 or its equivalent for guiding the thread, as herein-before
described.

page_text: Tenth. The adjusting the heighth of the feeding surface above the cloth
plate, as and for the purpose herein-before.described.
In witness whereof, I, the said John Henry Johnson, have to this
Specification set my hand and seal, the Seventeenth day of
September, One thousand eight hundred and sixty-eight.
J. HENRY JOHNSON. (L.S.)