Improvements in Plaited Woven Fabrics.
Year: 1897

page_text: Date of Application, 24th July, 1897-Accepted, 20th May, 1898
Improvements in Plaited Woven Fabrics.
I, OTTO PASTOR, of the Firm of Otto Pastor & Co., Crefeld, in the Empire of
Germany, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement:-
-
This invention consists in a fabric formed with waves or undulations in the
direction of the warp by displacement of the weft threads, such undulations running
in the direction of the weft, either straight in a zig-zag manner, or in any desired
curve.
This novel fabric is illustrated in the accompanying drawing, in which
Figure 1 shews the wrong side of the fabric.
Figure 2 represents a longitudinal section through the fabric upon the line x--x¹
of Figure 1.
Figure 3 is a section taken in the direction of the warp, the fabric not yet being
waved.
Figure 4 represents a similar section through the same fabric after waving.
For the production of undulations by means of displacement of the weft threads
only twilled stuffs are suitable, and of these more especially the so-called satin-
twill. In these fabrics, as is well known, that side of the material upon which for
the most part the warp lies free, is called the right side, whilst the other, principally
presenting weft threads is the wrong side. The fabric shewn in Figure 3 is an
eight-leaved satin-twill, the warp a passes over seven weft threads b at once before
it again covers a weft thread. When such a fabric is tightly stretched in the direc-
tion of the warp and the weft threads upon the wrong side of the material are then
displaced at several places from their stretched position and at the same time
separated further from each other (in the manner indicated in Figure 1 at ccccc
for example) the weft threads lying behind these places are forced closer
together. Thus all the weft threads which are directly displaced, and
a certain number of the following weft threads, undergo a change of position
with respect to the warp, in such a manner that a tension between warp and weft
and between the right and wrong sides of the fabric is occasioned. This tension,
as soon as the tightly held fabric is released, causes the latter to become waved,
crimped, curved or contracted in such a manner that it assumes the undulating
form shewn in longitudinal section in Figure 4 (see also Figure 2).
By varying the extent to which the weft threads are displaced, and the places
at which such displacement takes place, the height and depth of the undulations
and their direction along the weft threads may be altered.
In the example illustrated in Figure 1 the fabric, by the indicated displacement
of the weft threads, is waved or crimped both in the direction of the warp and of
the weft. The undulations may however run in the direction of the weft either
straight, zig-zag, bow-shaped or in any other curve.
The process is as follows:-
The fabric in question (for example twill, satin) is stretched over a kind of relief
layer, in such a manner that that side of the material on which the wefts are

page_text: "floating" lies upwards. Then the parts of the fabric lying on the high parts
of the layer, its floating wefts for example, are pushed by means of a card in the
direction of the warp, in such a manner that they accumulate in the hollow parts
of the layer. In consequence of this accumulation of the "floating" wefts on
separate parts of the fabric, an uneven tension is given to the warp threads, which
is shown by the fact that, after releasing the fabric, those parts on which the
floating" wefts are heaped stand in relief upon the surface of the fabric.
"
If the layer is provided with parallel ribs, parallel plaited folds are produced in
the fabric after it has been treated as above described.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is:―
A fabric having undulations in the direction of the warp formed by displacement
of the weft threads, such undulations running in the direction of the weft, either
straight, zig-zag or in any desired curve.
Dated this 24th day of July 1897.
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
45, Southampton Buildings, London, W.C.,
Agents for the Applicant.