same for the Manufacture of Damask.
Year: 1887

page_text: Date of Application, 27th June, 1887
Complete Left, 15th Feb., 1888
Complete Accepted, 6th Apr., 1888
the same for the Manufacture of Damask.
We, JOSEF TSCHORNER Engineer, and KARL WEIN, Manufacturer both of Kesmark
in the Kingdom of Hungary, and Empire of Austria do hereby declare the nature
of this invention to be as follows:-
-
This invention has for its object the weaving of damask on hand or power looms
without the use of front mounting and cross shed.
The said invention consists essentially in the arrangement and particular mode of
operation of combinations of two or more lifting wires held by a common needle;
further of separately movable lifting blades lifting out the lifting wires or jacks
remaining exposed to their action, and finally of lifting leaves separately movable
together with the healds. This novel arrangement can be applied to ordinary hand or
power looms and may be termed a damask attachment.
Suitable mechanism for actuating the lifting blades and leaves consists in this case
of a cam but for each lifting leaf and lifting blade there is a differently shaped
cam.
The shed is formed by jacks or lifting wires separately movable lifting blades and
lifting leaves. When cams or chain cams are employed an open shed is formed, a close
shed being formed when a dobby is employed.
The jacks are made of sheet metal or wire. Two, three or more jacks are operated
by one needle. The jacks are connected by belting, cords, or wires with the
healds.
Those jacks for whose needles the card is perforated remain under the action of
the lifting blades and are lifted by the same; those jacks for whose needles the card
is not perforated are removed from the action of the lifting blades by the pressure
which the card exerts upon the corresponding needles.
The connection of the lifting wires or jacks with the healds can be effected in any
of the well known manners.
Instead of actuating the needles by Jacquard cards the same effect may be produced
by the use of electro magnets as in the well known electric loom.
The number of lifting blades varies according to circumstances and is 5, 8, 10, 16
or more. For five-leafed fabric there are 5, 10, or 15 lifting blades. For eight leafed
satin there are 8 or 16 lifting blades, in any case the number of lifting blades must be
divisible by the number of bindings.

page_text: The lifting blades are separately movable and are actuated by cams, or chain cams,
or by the dobby.
By lifting the lifting blades the parts of the warp which are to form the figure or
pattern are raised and by lowering of the fifth or eighth part of the whole number
of lifting blades the connection of the raised parts of the warp with the woof is effected.
After 2, 3, 4 or more picks all the lifting blades fall down in order to change the
lifting wires or jacks. Then in eight leafed satin for instance seven eighths of the
whole number of the lifting blades are raised while one eighth remains below to form
the connection. In the following picks on the same card and in weaving eight leafed
satin for instance, always one eighth of the whole number of lifting blades is
raised and one eighth is lowered while the other six eighths remain in the upper shed.
When the picks required for one card are made, all the lifting blades fall down again
to change the lifting wires and so on.
Only 7 lifting blades are entirely lifted out while the eighth lifting blade is raised
only so far as to catch hold of the corresponding lifting wires or jacks. This is done
in order to obtain the necessary binding for the first pick. The connection of the
parts of the warp in the lower shed with the woof is effected by the lifting leaves of
which only one is lifted out.
For the second, third, and fourth pick the shed is formed by causing one of the
7 lifting blades which had been lifted out to fall (but not so far as to let go the lifting
wires or jacks resting on the saine) while the lifting blade which had been down during
the previous pick is raised at the same time one of the lifting leaves is raised while
the lifting leaf which was previously raised is caused to fall.
After the fourth pick all the lifting blades will fall as before described.
There are as many lifting leaves as lifting blades the lifting leaves are located in
or attached to the upper halves of the healds which are attached to the lifting wires
or jacks either directly or by the belting arrangement. The lifting leaves are actuated
by cams or chain cans or by the dobby and cause those parts of the warp which form
the ground and therefore are in the lower shed to be connected with the woof.
The cylinder has alternating rows of holes bored into it, the cards are stamped out
with alternating rows of perforations. The cylinder is driven by cams or any other
well known mechanism.
The needles may also be actuated by electro-magnets there being as many electro
magnets as there are needles. The employment of electro-magnets is particularly
advantageous because it is not indispensable that the movement of the needles should
take place exactly at a particular moment; it may take place an instant later
or earlier without interfering with the binding or the figure. In this case the cylinder
and the cards are dispensed with the figure or pattern being drawn with an insulating
ink on a conducting plate, as is also the case in the well known electric loom.
The figure or pattern is formed by the co-operation of the cylinder, the cards,
needles, lifting wires or jacks or by electro magnets and the lifting blades.
The pattern is formed by the lifting wires raised by the lifting blades. Those
lifting wires or jacks are raised which when the lifting blades begin to rise remain
stationary.
The operation of the improved apparatus is as follows that is to say, the card which
by the cylinder is pressed against the needles removes from the lifting blades those
lifting wires or jacks for which no hole is punched in the card. This may however
be done by electro-magnets which are caused to attract their needles. In this move-
ment all the lifting wires or jacks which have to form the pattern are on their
respective lifting blades. The lifting blades now begin their upward motion under
the action of the cams (or of chain cams or of the dobby) and thus lift the lifting wires
or jacks which remained stationary. If all the lifting blades were raised, all the
parts of the warp which form the pattern would be in the upper shed whereas those
parts of the warp which form the ground would be in the lower shed; but as according
to the pattern frequently a relatively large number of warp threads would lie side by
side in the upper or lower shed (as is the case with damask) the warp threads forming
the figure or pattern would not be connected with the woof below, and the parts of

page_text: the warp forming the ground would not be connected with the woof above. This
connection is established in the following manner and without the employment of
a cross shed. For the description I will suppose that eight leafed satin has to
be woven.
First pick. All the lifting blades are raised so far that they just catch the lifting
wires or jacks which form the pattern; one eighth of the whole number of lifting
blades however remains below, so that of the warp threads which owing to the card
should form the pattern remain in the lower shed. Thus the parts of warp forming
the pattern and raised into the upper shed are connected with the woof. The con-
nection of the warp forming the ground is effected by the lifting leaves which are
drawn through the upper halves of the healds. In eight leafed satin therefore one
eighth of the whole number of lifting blades will be raised whereby the parts of the
ground remaining below are connected with the woof.
After that the first pick follows;
In damask two or more picks are made for one card that is to say, the parts of the
warp forming the figure or pattern are not changed after each pick but remain in
the upper shed during two or more picks, while the warp threads required for
establishing the connection are changed after each pick.
In the second and all the following picks made on the same card not all the lifting
blades will fall but only the lifting wires which have been lifted out so that the same
parts forming the pattern remain above; and for the purpose of establishing the
connection only one eighth of the whole number of lifting blades together with their
lifting wires will descend without letting go the latter while the one eighth of the
whole number of lifting blades, which has been below at the first pick will now rise
together with the corresponding lifting wires. At the same time that of the lifting
leaves which at the first pick has been uppermost will descend, while another of the
same will rise. Now the second pick is made. The operation described for the second
pick will be repeated for each pick made on the same card.
It must be particularly noted that in changing the lifting blades the latter never
descend so far as to let go the lifting wires or jacks riding on them.
When the requisite number of picks for the first card has been made all the lifting
blades will descend so far that the lifting wires may be changed in consequence of the
cylinder together with the cards entering again into action or by means of electro
magnets, that is to say so far that the necessary lifting wires may be let go, or may
be caught up by the lifting blades.
As regards the cams we will observe that they may be of any desired shape, and
therefore may be adapted to produce any desired connection between warp and woof.
We may also so arrange the cams that while the lifting blades work the pattern in satin
or otherwise, the lifting leaves make at the same time a tweel ground or otherwise.
The same is true when chain cams or a dobby is employed; in the former case the
links have to be suitably shaped and in the latter case the cards must be suitably
adjusted or perforated. In other words this device allows the weaving of pattern and
ground, each in a different way provided that both of them require the same number
of picks.
This attachment may with slight modifications be connected with any existing loom.
The hereinbefore described damask attachment for looms constitutes as a whole as
well as together with the manifold actuating mechanisms a new invention. This
attachment may be connected with any hand or power loom for weaving plain fabrics
or the damask attachment properly speaking may be connected with any loom for
weaving fancy goods. In the latter case the cams or the dobby of the loom may be
employed as actuating mechanism with or without slight modification.
T
1007
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
45, Southampton Buildings, London, W.C.,
Agents for the Applicants.

page_text: Adapt the same for the Manufacture of Damask.
We, JOSEF TSCHÖRNER, Engineer, and KARL WEIN, Manufacturer, both of
Kesmark, Hungary, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in
and by the following statement:-
This invention has for its object the weaving of damask on hand or power looms
without the use of front mounting and cross-shed.
The said invention consists essentially in the arrangement and particular mode of
co-operation of combinations of two or more lifting wires held by a common needle ;
further of separately movable lifting blades lifting out the lifting wires or jacks
remaining exposed to their action; and finally of lifting leaves separately movable
together with the healds or another set of lifting blades acting on projections upon the
lifting wires.
This novel arrangement can be applied to ordinary hand or power looms and may
be termed a damask attachment.
The invention is illustrated in the accompanying drawing, the Figures of which are
hereinafter referred to.
Suitable mechanism for actuating the lifting blades 1 and lifting leaves consists in
this case of a cam 2 Figure 2 but for each lifting leaf and lifting blade there is a
differently shaped cam and the dotted line shows another suitable form of cam for
another lifting leaf and blade.
The shed is formed by jacks or lifting wires T, separately movable lifting blades A,
and lifting leaves D. When cams or chain cams are employed an open shed is
formed, a close shed being formed when a dobby is employed.
The jacks T are made of sheet metal or wire. Two, three or more jacks are
operated by one needle W. The jacks are connected by belting cords or wires with
the healds y.
Those jacks T for whose needles W the card Z is perforated remain under the
action of the lifting blades A and are lifted by the same, those jacks for whose needles
the card is not perforated are removed from the action of the lifting blades by the
pressure which the card exerts upon the corresponding needles. The connection of
the lifting wires or jacks with the healds y can be effected in any well known manner.
Instead of actuating the needles by jacquard cards the same effect may be produced
by the use of electro-magnets as in the well known electric loom.
The number of lifting blades A varies according to circumstances and is 5, 8, 10, 16
or more. For five leafed fabric there are 5, 10 or 15 lifting blades. For eight
leafed satin there are 8 or 16 lifting blades, in any case the number of lifting blades
must be divisible by the number of bindings.
The lifting blades are separately movable and are actuated by cams 2 or chain cams,
or by the dobby.

page_text: By lifting the lifting blades the parts of the warp which are to form the figure or
pattern are raised and by lowering of the fifth or eighth part of the whole number of
lifting blades A the connection of the raised parts of the warp with the woof is
effected.
After 2, 3, 4 or more picks all the lifting blades fall down in order to change the
lifting wires or jacks T. Then, in eight leafed satin for instance seven eighths of the
whole number of the lifting blades are raised while one eighth remains below, to
form the connection. In the following picks on the same card and in weaving eight
leafed satin for instance always one eighth of the whole number of lifting blades is
raised and one eighth is lowered while the other six eighths remain in the upper
shed.
When the picks required for one card are made all the lifting blades fall down
again to change the lifting wires and so on.
As may be seen from Figure 6 only 7 lifting blades are entirely lifted out while the
eighth lifting blade is raised only so far as to catch hold of the corresponding lifting
wires or jacks. This is done in order to obtain the necessary binding for the first
pick. The connection of the parts of the warp in the lower shed with the woof is
effected by the lifting leaves D of which only one is lifted out.
For the 2nd 3rd and 4th pick the shed is formed by causing one of the 7 lifting
blades A which had been lifted out to fall (but not so far as to let go the lifting wires
or jacks resting on the same) while the lifting blade which had been down during the
previous pick is raised at the same time one of the lifting leaves D is raised while the
lifting leaf which was previously raised is caused to fall.
After the fourth pick all the lifting blades will fall as before described.
There are as many lifting leaves or heddles D as lifting blades A, the lifting leaves
are located in or attached to the upper halves of the healds y which are attached to
the lifting wires or jacks either directly or by the belting arrangement. The lifting
leaves are actuated by cams 2 or chain cams or by the dobby and cause those parts of
the warp which form the ground and therefore are in the lower shed to be connected
with the woof. The second set of lifting blades when employed is actuated by the
same means and in the same manner. •
The cylinder V has alternating rows of holes bored into it, the cards Z are stamped
out with alternating rows of perforations. The cylinder V is driven by cams or any
other well known mechanism.
The needles W may also be actuated by electro-magnets, there being as many
electro-magnets as there are needles W. The employment of electro-magnets is
particularly advantageous because it is not indispensable that the movement of the
needles W should take place exactly at a particular moment; it may take place an
instant later or earlier without interfering with the binding or the figure. In this
case the cylinder V and the cards Z are dispensed with, the figure or pattern being
drawn with an insulating ink on a conducting plate, as is also the case in the well
known electric loom.
The figure or pattern is formed by the co-operation of the cylinder V the cards Z,
needles W, lifting wires or jacks T (or by electro magnets) and the lifting blades A.
The pattern is formed by the lifting wires raised by the lifting blades A. Those
lifting wires or jacks are raised which when the lifting blades begin to rise remain
stationary.
The operation of the improved apparatus is as follows, that is to say :-The card
which by the cylinder is pressed against the needles W removes from the lifting
blades A those lifting wires or jacks T for which no hole is punched in the card. This
may however be done by electromagnets which are caused to attract their needles.
In this moment all the lifting wires or jacks T which have to form the pattern are on
their respective lifting blades. The lifting blades now begin their upward motion
under the action of the cams 2 (or of chain cams or of the dobby) and thus lift the
lifting wires or jacks which remained stationary. If all the lifting blades were raised
all the parts of the warp which form the pattern would be in the upper shed whereas
those parts of the warp which form the ground would be in the lower shed, but as

page_text: according to the pattern frequently a relatively large number of warp threads would
lie side by side in the upper or lower shed (as is the case with damask) the warp
threads forming the figure or pattern would not be connected with the woof below,
and the parts of the warp forming the ground would not be connected with the woof
above. This connection is established in the following manner and without the
employment of a cross shed. For the description we will suppose that eight leafed
satin has to be woven.
First pick-All the lifting blades A are raised so far that they just catch the lifting
wires or jacks T which form the pattern; one eighth of the whole number of lifting
blades however remains below, so that of the warp threads which owing to the
card Z should form the pattern remain in the lower shed. Thus the parts of warp
forming the pattern and raised into the upper shed are connected with the woof. The
connection of the warp forming the ground is effected by the lifting leaves or heddles
which are drawn through the upper halves of the healds y. In eight leafed satin
therefore one eighth of the whole number of lifting leaves will be raised whereby the
parts of the ground remaining below are connected with the woof.
After that the first pick follows.
In damask two or more picks are made for one card, that is to say, the parts of the
warp forming the figure or pattern are not changed after each pick but remain in the
upper shed during two or more picks while the warp threads required for establishing
the connection are changed after each pick.
In the second and all the following picks made on the same card not all the lifting
blades will fall but only the lifting wires T which have been lifted out, so that the
same parts forming the pattern remain above; and for the purpose of establishing the
connection only one eighth of the whole number of lifting blades together with their
lifting wires will descend without letting go the latter while the one eighth of the whole
number of lifting blades, which has been below at the first pick will now rise together
with the corresponding lifting wires. At the same time that one eighth of the lifting
leaves D which at the first pick has been uppermost will descend, while another
one eighth of the same will rise. Now the second pick is made. The operation
described for the second pick will be repeated for each pick made on the same card.
It must be particularly noted that in changing the lifting blades A, the latter never
descend so far as to let go the lifting wires or jacks riding on them.
When the requisite number of picks for the first card has been made all the lifting
blades will descend so far that the lifting wires may be changed in consequence of the
cylinder V together with the cards entering again into action or by means of electro-
magnets, that is to say, so far that the necessary lifting wires may be let go, or may
be caught up by the lifting blades.
As regards the cams we will observe that they may be of any desired shape, and
therefore may be adapted to produce any desired connection between warp and woof.
We may also so arrange the cams that while the lifting blades work the pattern in satin
or otherwise, the lifting leaves D or the second set of lifting blades when employed
make at the same time a tweel ground or otherwise. The same is true when chain
cams or a dobby is employed; in the former case the links have to be suitably shaped
and in the latter case the cards must be suitably adjusted or perforated. In other
words this device allows the weaving of pattern and ground each in a different way
provided that both of them require the same number of picks.
This attachment may with slight modifications be connected with any existing
loom.
may
The hereinbefore described damask attachment for looms constitutes as a whole as well
as together with the manifold actuating mechanisms a new invention. This attachment
be connected with any hand or power looms for weaving plain fabrics or the
damask attachment properly speaking may be connected with any loom for weaving
fancy goods. In the latter case the cams or the dobby of the loom may be employed
as actuating mechanism with or without slight modifications.
As already stated instead of using the lifting leaves D in combination with the
Lealds y as hereinbefore described, a second set of lifting blades D¹ (see

page_text: Figures 8, 9 and 10 which show the various positions of the working parts on a larger
scale) may be employed which is located in the lower part of the machine. The lifting
wires or jacks T are provided in this case with projections y' resting upon the lifting
blades D when the lifting wires are down. In order to connect the parts of the warp
forming the ground with the woof the jacks are raised by causing the lifting blades D
upon which they rest to rise. As has been already stated the lifting blades D' which
are to rise are determined in the same way as hereinbefore described with reference to
the lifting leaves D and are actuated in the same manner and by the same means as
the lifting leaves.
The lifting blades D¹ serve also as a substitute for the board under the lifting
wires.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what
we claim is:
-
First. In a damask attachment for looms the arrangement of the lifting wires or
jacks in such a manner, that two or more of them are held by the same needle and are
by aid of suitably perforated cards or by electro magnets brought under or removed
from the action of the lifting blades, substantially as described.
Second. Separately movable lifting blades which lift out the lifting wires or jacks
remaining under their action thus forming the pattern while at the same time by the
corresponding lifting blades remaining below or descending the figure or pattern parts
are connected with the woof, substantially as described.
Third. The lifting leaves drawn through the upper halves of the healds and
separately movable which by being raised in divisions give to the ground the
necessary connection with the woof substantially as described.
Fourth. The employment of lifting blades D in combination with the projections y
of the lifting wires instead of the lifting leaves substantially as hereinbefore described.
Dated this 15th day of February -SSS
Dated GIS day of Februar
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
45, Southampton Buildings, London, W.C.,
Agents for the Applicants.
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
45, Southampton Buildings, London, W.C.,
Agents for the Applicants.