Improved Method of Producing and Weaving Large Diagonal Patterns for Tissues.
Year: 1889

page_text: Date of Application, 21st Nov., 1889-Accepted, 11th Jan., 1890
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improved Method of Producing and Weaving Large Diagonal Patterns
for Tissues.
I NICOLAUS REISER, Director of the Weaving School at Aachen in the German
Empire do hereby declare the nature of this invention, and in what manner the same
is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement :-
--
For the production of tissues with large diagonal patterns with a regular succession
of changes in the crossings of the threads a large number of shafts or staves have
hitherto been required or jacquards had to be employed, both of these arrangements
being complicated and inconvenient and admitting only of a moderate speed. The
object of my invention is to simplify the arrangement of the loom for the production of
such tissues and enable looms producing them to be run at a greater speed, which 1
effect by a novel or improved method of weaving large diagonal patterns with a
comparatively small number of shafts or staves. This method consists in combining
two or more diagonal patterns of any similar inclination or advance and requiring
an unequal number of shafts for their production by alternating the warp threads of
the two patterns one by one, two hy two or in other regular sequence in order to
obtain by the unequal coincidence of the different crossings of the threads diagonal
patterns of a large total rapport or length and width, while the number of shafts
required for their production is only small. The width of such combination
pattern will be equal to the least common multiple of the number of shafts
multiplied by two, for instance when the threads in two originating patterns are
alternated one by one, while the length of the combined pattern will be equal to
the least common multiple of the lengths of the separate patterns.
On the two sheets of drawings appended hereunto figures 1 and 2 represent two
originating patterns with an unequal number of shafts, producing the combined pattern
represented by figure 3. In these pattern drawings the vertical rows of squares
represent warp threads, as usual, while the horizontal rows represent weft threads.
Figure 1 thus represents a pattern consisting of 6 warp and 6 weft threads, and each
black square signifies that at this point the warp thread shows on the face of the
tissue, while a white square signifies that it is at the back and the weft thread
shows on the face. Each warp thread thus floats over three weft threads and
passes under three weft threads alternately, and while being woven, is lifted for
three picks into the upper shed and lowered for three picks into the lower shed.
The first warp thread floats over the 1st 2nd and 3rd weft thread, the 2nd
warp thread over the 2nd 3rd and 4th weft thread, the third warp thread over
the 3rd 4th and 5th weft thread &c., so that the floating of each consecutive warp
thread advances by one weft thread or pick against the preceding one.
Each warp thread therefore has to be lifted in weaving in a different manner,
and consequently six shafts or sets of healds are required for this pattern. Figure 1*
shows a diagram of the arrangement of the shafts in a loom and the way in which
the warp threads are drawn into them. The warp threads (12 of which are shewn
Between these
on the figure) pass from the back beam A. to the breast beam B.
beams the shafts or staves 1, 2, 3 etc. are arranged. The first warp thread is drawn
through the first heald of the first shaft, the second warp thread through the first
heald of the second shaft, the third warp thread through the first heald of the
third shaft etc.
The seventh warp thread, which is woven in the same manner as the first is
drawn through the second heald of the first shaft, the eighth thread through the
second heald of the second shaft, the ninth thread through the second heald of the
third shaft etc. In figure 1b the shafts and warp threads are shown in a top view,

page_text: the diagonal short cross lines denoting where the threads are drawn in. Figure 1
shows how this drafting is ordinarily represented in practice, and the weaver draws
the threads in according to this drawing in the manner before described.
By Figure 2 a pattern 'consisting of seven warp and seven weft threads is
represented, in which each warp thread floats over four weft threads and lies under
them at the back of the tissue for three weft threads or picks, the floating of each
following thread advancing by one pick against the preceding one, and the
pattern requiring seven shafts for weaving it. Figure 2 shows the top view of the
shafts and warp ihreads, and figure 2b the drafting.
Out of these two patterns or crossings of threads shown by figures 1 and 2, the
pattern represented by figure 3 is formed in this way, that every odd numbered warp
thread of figure 3 is woven according to the pattern shewn by figure 1 and every even
warp thread according to the pattern shewn by figure 2. Following the first warp
thread of figure 3, it is seen that it corresponds exactly to the first warp thread of
figure 1, being floated over three weft threads, then under three, then again over
three and under three and so on. The second warp thread of figure 3 corresponds
exactly to the first warp thread of figure 2, floating like this over four weft threads
then under three, then again over four etc. The third warp thread of figure 3 is
woven exactly as the second warp thread of figure 1, the fourth thread of figure 3 like
the second thread of figure 2, and so on. In consequence of the numbers of the shafts
for the originating patterns being unequal a great width and length of the pattern is
obtained before it repeats itself.
The drafting of the threads is shewn in the usual way by figure 4 and in a
perspective diagram by figure 4.
As will
In the latter the first six shafts shewn in full lines correspond to the pattern or
weave figure 1 and shafts figure 1ª, while the shafts 7 to 13 shewn in dotted lines
correspond to the pattern figure 2. The odd numbered warp threads are shewn in full
lines drawn in according to the drafting shewn by figures 1° and 1°, and the even
numbered warp threads are shewn in dotted lines drawn in according to the drafting
shewn by figures 2ª and 2, the combined drafting being shewn by figure 4.
be seen from that figure, if the first six shafts are numbered 1, 2, 3 etc., and the seven
other shafts I II III etc., the sequence of drawing in through the healds of
shafts 1, 1, 2, 11, 3, 111, 4, IV etc. with which the pattern figure III starts will not be
repeated till after the least common multiple of the shafts multiplied by two. The
numbers of shafts in this case being 6 and 7 and their least common multiple 42, the
repetition will only commence after the 2x42 or 84th thread, so that a width of
pattern of 84 warp threads is obtained, each of which is woven or floated in a different
manner from any other. Ordinarily a pattern of this character and width would
require 84 shafts, or, as the loom would in most cases be unable to contain these, à
jacquard harness for producing it, while by combining the two originating patterns or
weaves in the manner described only 13 shafts are required.
The treading or lifting of the two sets of shafts takes place in the same succession
and combination as in weaving the originating pattern. For the first pick
shafts 1, 5, 6, 1, V, VI, VII are raised, for the second pick 1, 2, 6, 1, 11, VI, VII etc.
At the seventh pick the lifting will be as for the first pick of pattern figure 1 combined
with that of the last pick for pattern figure 2, or 1, 5, 6, IV, V, VI, VII. It will be
seen that the same combination of shafts in treading or lifting can only recur after a
number of picks equal to the least common multiple of the numbers of picks in the
originating pattern. These being 6 and 7, the pattern repeats itself only after the
42nd pick. In this way a large diagonal pattern is produced and can be woven with
a small number of shafts the width being equal to twice the least common multiple of
the number of shafts required for the originating patterns and its length or rapport
equal to the least common multiple of the length of the originating patterns, the
number of shafts being equal to the sum of those required for the originating
patterns.
On sheet 11 figures 5 and 6 represent two other small patterns having a different
inclination from those shewn by figures 1 and 2, the floating advancing by two picks

page_text: or weft threads for succeeding warp threads. Pattern figure 5 requires 3 shafts, the
warp threads floating alternately over and under three weft threads.
Pattern figure requires 13 shafts, the warp threads floating over three, under
three, over three and under four weft threads. The draft for each is regular and
represented by figures 5ª and 6". By combining the two patterns in the manner
herein before described, drawing in the odd numbered warp threads in the first three
shafts according to draft 5 and the even numbered threads according to draft figure 6ª
in the second thirteen shafts, and weaving each set of threads in the same way as in
the originating pattern, the combination pattern figure 7 is produced, figure 7 shewing
the drafting for the same.
The number of shafts in the originating patterns being 3 and 13, the width
of the combination pattern is 3 x 13 x 2 or 78 threads, and the lengths of the
originating patterns being 6 and 13, the length of the combination pattern
is 6 x 13 or 78 picks or weft threads, while the number of shafts is only 3 plus 13
or 16.
In a similar way by combining a 4 shaft pattern 16 picks long (with an advance of
4 picks to each warp thread and a 9 shaft pattern 36 picks long (with the same
advance) a combined pattern having a width of twice the least common multiple of 4
and 9, or 2x4x9=72 threads, and a length equal to the least common multiple of
16 and 36 or of 144 picks will be obtained.
Three diagonal patterns of the same inclination and different shaft number may be
combined in a similar way by drawing in and weaving the 1st 4th 7th etc. warp thread
according to the first, the 2nd 5th 8th etc. according to the second and the
3rd 6th 9th etc. according to the third. Instead of drawing in the threads alternately
one by one according to the two originating patterns they may in some cases be drawn
in two by two three by three etc.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is
The method of producing and weaving with a small number of shafts large diagonal
patterns for tissues by dividing the warp threads alternately into two or more
sets and drawing in and treading each set as required for producing a different
comparatively small diagonal pattern of similar inclination but each requiring a
different number of shafts for its production, substantially as hercin before described
and illustrated by the drawings.
Dated this 19th day of November 1889.
EMMOTT & Co.,
Agents for the Applicant.