IMPROVEMENTS IN LASTING BOOTS, SHOES, AND OTHER COVERINGS FOR THE FEET, AND IN THE MACHINERY OR APPARATUS EMPLOYED THEREIN
Year: 1878

page_text: PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by John Henry Johnson at the Office of
the Commissioners of Patents on the 13th September 1878. A communication
from abroad by Gilles Senat, of Paris, in the Republic of France.
JOHN HENRY JOHNSON, of 47, Lincoln's Inn Fields, in the County of Middlesex,
Gentleman. "IMPROVEMENTS IN LASTING BOOTS, SHOES, AND OTHER COVERINGS
FOR THE FEET, AND IN THE MACHINERY OR APPARATUS EMPLOYED THEREIN." [A
communication from abroad by Gilles Senat, of Paris, in the Republic of France.]
This Invention relates to the lasting of boots, shoes, and other coverings for the
feet, and consists of improvements whereby the said operation is performed in a
more complete and perfect manner than by any of the processes hitherto employed.
In carrying out this Invention two machines are employed, one termed a machine
for pulling the uppers transversely or sideways, and the other a machine for adjusting
the uppers lengthways upon the last.
The machine for operating transversely is supported by a bar adjustable vertically
upon another bar, one end of which rests upon the ground. To the upper bar or
support is secured so as to admit of vertical adjustment a shaped bracket, through
one leg of which passes a screw bolt, and above this bracket is secured to the bar a
rest for the last, the same being also capable of vertical adjustment. The rest is
covered with leather, india-rubber, or other elastic material, or preferably with a
woollen fabric, which is less liable to slip, especially when adjusting the parts near
the end of the last.
A flat steel spring bent round to an shape is secured by one end to the upper
extremity of the upper bar, and the other end of the said spring carries a steel arm
forming the fixed jaw of the pincers for pulling the leather. The lower extremity
of this arm forming the jaw proper is provided with teeth of the usual form cut
transversely, and to this jaw is connected a steel arm (forming the moveable jaw
of the pincers is provided with diamond-shaped teeth to give it a better hold on
the leather which it is required to stretch.
The connection of the fixed and moveable jaws is made by a pin working in an
elongated hole, and also by a collar and set screw acting as a guide to the moveable

page_text: jaw. The moveable jaw is provided with two crescent-shaped projections, the upper
one being by preference of iron, and the lower of brass; these projections are
arranged in relation to an eccentric turning on a bolt, passed through an elongated
hole in the moveable jaw, and secured to the fixed jaw by a shoulder and nut. The
eccentric is worked by a lever handle so as to open and close the jaws of the pincers
as required by acting upon the projections and moving the jaw.
A rod provided with a screw thread for a considerable portion of its length is
connected at one end to the jaw, and passes through an elongated hole in the upper
bar or support, beyond which it carries a crank handle.
The upper part of the apparatus for adjusting or stretching leather lengthways
upon the last mainly differs from the upper part of the apparatus already described
in the following details, viz.:-
The support terminates at its lower extremity in a hook or claw.
The screwed rod is arranged above in lieu of below the eccentric and its accessories
in order that the workman may not be inconvenienced in turning the crank handle
when he has placed the whole apparatus on his knees, as herein-after described.
The fixed and moveable jaws of the pincers in this apparatus are bifurcated so as
to enable them to lay hold of both sides of the toe end of the upper, and prevent it
from becoming displaced during the operation of lasting.
An apparatus is also employed, termed a heel rest, forming the lower part of the
machine for pulling the leather lengthways. It consists of a piece of flat iron bent
to a U shape, provided internally with a pad composed, for example, of several
thicknesses of woollen stuff tacked or stitched together; the object of this pad, as
well as of the one provided on the rest of the machine for pulling the leather trans-
versely, is to avoid scratching or in any way injuring the upper leather. The ends
of the U shaped bar are connected together by an iron band supporting a steel
guide, in which is fitted a steel plate capable of sliding longitudinally, and of being
fixed in any required position. The steel plate is perforated with screw-threaded
holes near one end, and is provided with one or more rectangular holes, in which
the hook or claw of the upper part of the machine is inserted when working.
In order to enable the workman to perform the operation of lasting, and at the
same time to have his hands at liberty for inserting nails or sprigs, the following
modification of the machine for adjusting or pulling the leather lengthways may be
employed:-
The apparatus is supported on a table or frame, to the lower part of which are
fitted two treadles. To the frame is bolted a plate provided with a vertical arm,
carrying at different elevations two horizontal bars, secured to it by nuts and
shoulders formed on their ends or otherwise.
One of the bars, situate near the upper extremity of the arm, supports the spring
of the pincers (which are of similar construction to those herein-before described in
a suitable manner by means of a bolt and nut. The spring thus supported bears
against the lower horizontal bar with one of its ends, and in order to prevent this
part of the spring from becoming worn away by constant working the bar is covered
with good packthread or strips of any suitable material wound round it. The
vertical arm also carries a pin, forming the axis of a grooved pulley, over which is
passed a gut cord connected at one end to the lever of the excentric for working the
pincers, and at the other end to one of the treadles.
By the depression of the treadle the eccentric is caused to rotate and close the
jaws of the pincers. When it is required to open the said jaws it is simply necessary
to throw up the lever of the eccentric sharply by hand; the lever will then remain
elevated.
A plate is employed working upon a guide plate, supported at a suitable height
above the plate previously referred, to which sliding plate is firmly bolted a bar
bent to a right angle and connected by a gut cord to the other treadle. A heel
rest covered with india-rubber, stuff, or leather, in order that when the heel of the
last is inserted in the rest the upper leather may be protected from injury, is bolted
to one side of the bar, and a hook is provided on the other side of the said bar, to

page_text: which one end of an india-rubber spring is attached, the other end of the spring
being connected to an arm fixed to the frame. The bar is also provided at its
upper extremity with a hinged plate having two holes, either of which serves for
the reception of the hook or claw of the stretching apparatus, according to the length
of the last employed.
The apparatus may be modified in their details; for example, the support of the
machine first described may be replaced by a second pair of pincers worked by au
eccentric arranged internally so as to be out of the way of the crank, and moreover
the order of the arrangement berein-before described for the arms of the pincers
may be reversed, as well as the terminal parts of their lower ends.
Another feature of the Invention consists of a tool for setting in position the
springs or nails for the attachment of the leather. This tool consists of a small.
round bar magnet working in a cylindrical hole formed in the centre of a brass cone
screwed into one end of a piece of flat iron, to the other end of which, is attached a
lump carrying a flat spring. The free end of this spring is connected to the magnet,
and its arc of vibration is limited by a screw, so that when the spring is depressed
and then released the magnet is depressed, and rises again with the said spring. If
a few nails are provided, and spread upon a table within reach, it will be simply
necessary to take the nail setter in the left hand, pressing upon the spring, then
bringing the end of the brass cone near one of the nails, and releasing the spring,
the nail being attracted by the magnet will be drawn into a cylindrical hole in the
The point of the nail may then be inserted in the last by applying
the end of the cone to the spot where the nail is required, and administering a
smart tap on the upper end of the magnet. When the desired number of nails have
been placed in position they may be driven in by a haminer.
brass cone.
:
The operation of adjusting boots and shoes (for example) upon the last by means
of the machines herein-before described may be performed while holding the last.
upon the knees in the ordinary manner.
The operation is commenced by pulling the leather lengthwise. For this purpose
when the apparatus is constructed according to the first modification the foot or
claw attached to the upper part of the apparatus is inserted in the corresponding hole
in the lower part, and the last with the upper upon it being placed sole uppermost
in such a position that the heel bears against the pad of the heel rest, the pincers
are caused to lay hold of the leather at the toe end by depressing the lever of the
eccentric, then by turning the crank the latter is stretched to the required extent.
A few nails are driven into the extremity of the toe, and the folds or creases
smoothed out.
When the machine is constructed according to the second modification, the upper
leather being placed upon the last, the latter is presented with the toe end towards
the machine, and holding the upper leather with the fingers at each side of the toe
the toe end of the leather is inserted between the open jaws of the pincers. The
corresponding treadle is then depressed with the left foot, causing the eccentric to
rotate and forcibly close the jaws of the pincers, which lay firm hold of the toe end
of the upper. The last is then turned with the sole uppermost, so as to present the
heel foremost and opposite the heel rest; when in this position the heel rest is
caused to travel towards the pincers by depressing the other treadle with the right
foot, so as to enable the book or claw on the end of the spring to be inserted in the
proper hole in the hinged plate. The screw for pulling the leather having been
previously unscrewed to the required extent, and the upper part of the boot or shoe
arranged straight upon the last, the crank handle is rotated causing the nut to turn
upon the screw, and draw the pincers towards the heel rest so as to pull the leather
lengthwise to the required extent. This being effected the hands of the operator
are completely at liberty for putting in the required nails or sprigs at the toe end
of the upper. The pincers are then opened by suddenly throwing up the lever of
the eccentric, and the leather is released.
In order to proceed with the operation of stretching lengthwise with another
upper the end of the spring is unhooked from the hinged plate, and the india-rubber

page_text: spring draws back the heel rest to its original position, so that everything is ready
to recommence operations in the same order as herein-before described.
The preliminary operation of pulling lengthwise being thus carried out the
operation of pulling laterally or transversely is then proceeded with. The sides of
the upper are pulled alternately in opposite directions by means of the pincers and
crank, care being taken to commence near the toe end. pulling first one side and
then the other, turning the last from side to side according to the side of the upper
which it is desired to lay hold of with the pincers, and maintaining the leather in
the precise position which it is to occupy upon the last. Nails or sprigs are driven
in according as the boot or shoe is to be sewn, nailed, or screwed. The operation is
thus continued until the widest part of the sole (which is uppermost is reached
the side of the last opposite to that on which the pincers are pulling the leather
being brought to bear against the rest in order to prevent it from twisting during
the operation. When the instep is reached, that is to say, the place where the
leather requires the greatest amount of stretching, the pincers are caused to lay hold
of the edge of the upper, and then bracket is elevated by turning it up towards
the heel; the last is then firmly pressed against the rest so as to enable the leather
to be stretched with perfect safety without any danger of displacing or pulling
round the last.
The operation is thus commenced by a single pull of the pincers of one machine,
nails or sprigs are then driven in, and the jaws of the pincers opened. The last is
then turned round so as to pull on the opposite side, and corresponding nails or
sprigs are driven in on that side also. The upper part of the boot or shoe thus
bearing equally in every part the process is continued, always pulling each side
alternately until the toe is reached, and as leather is always very liable to yield
more in certain parts than in others it is requisite always to pull in the first place
more forcibly on the parts which yield least, whereby a really correct adjustment
on the last will be effected.
The process is afterwards proceeded with towards the
instep, and continued upon the instep itself, finishing the ends and heels in the
usual manner.