IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE LS
Year: 1881

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Gustavus Adolphus John Schott, of Bradford, Yorkshire,
Manufacturer, for an Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE
LETTERS PATENT to Gustavus Adolphus John Schott, of Bradford, Yorkshire,
Manufacturer, for an Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE
OF FANCY YARNS, AND IN THE APPARATUS EMPLOYED THEREIN.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION filed by the said Gustavus Adolphus John Schott
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 17th February 1881.
GUSTAVUS ADOLPHUS JOHN SCHOTT, of Bradford, Yorkshire, Manufacturer.
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FANCY YARNS, AND IN THE APPARATUS
EMPLOYED THEREIN.'
This Invention consists, firstly, in the production of an improved fancy yarn or
twist consisting of a plain thread or yarn of wool, silk, cotton, or other suitable
fibrous material, either single or manifold, presenting the appearance of having been
laid in an undulating or wavy line in such a manner that at the heads or crests
and hollows of the waves the yarn doubles or bends into what approaches a circle
or ringlet in form as shewn in Figure 1 of the accompanying Drawings. In
order to render these ringlets permanent I wind or twist two thin and pliable
continuous threads d, e, Figures 2 and 3, bereafter called "entwining threads,"
each of which may be single or manifold, and which should be as much thinner
than the yarn forming the waves and ringlets as possible, in order, besides another
reason hereafter explained, to not unnecessarily increase the thickness of the yarn,
and thereby damage the effect to be obtained in opposite directions round the yarn
laid in waves and ringlets as before described, and which I call "the ringlet yarn,'
in such a manner that the, said two threads envelop and are entwined round that
part of the ringlet yaru which forms the spaces between the ringlets but pass by
and leave outside of their folds the ringlets themselves, which are thus intersected
at their base by the two entwining threads d, e, in the manner indicated in Figure 2.
It will be seen in stretching out this combined yarn that whilst the parts of the
ringlet yarn thus enveloped and the two entwining threads form a straight
compound thread, the ringlets have been rendered fixed and permanent thereon and
more circular in form than they appeared before the ringlet yarn was twisted with
the two entwining threads as shewn in Figure 3.
The size of the ringlets and the distances between them vary with the breadth
of the waves into which the ringlet yarn is primarily laid.
"
In order to render the effect produced by the ringlets more permanent and
striking, and for further reasons to be hereafter explained, it is necessary to use for
the ringlet yarn a yarn composed of a stiff and strong fibre, the average length of
which should be at least equal to the circumference of the ringlets which it is

page_text: desired to form; or if preferred, a naturally soft yarn may be used, the same being
artificially stiffened by being twisted previous to being laid in ringlets with a
naturally stiff yarn, or by sizing or other equivalent means, so as to impart sufficient
elasticity to the ringlets to enable them to preserve or regain as much as possible
their original form after being handled or crushed in the process of being manu-
factured into goods, or on other occasions.
The ringlet yarn and the two entwining threads may be composed either of one
or different materials, and may be of one or more colors. By varying the material
and color a greater variety of effects can be obtained, and on the compound yarn
being manufactured or worked into goods by weaving, knitting, crochetting, or
other processes novel or improved effects are produced in such goods. The uses to
which I intend more particularly to apply this improved fancy twist at present
are,-
Firstly, as a substitute or partial substitute for that class of mohair yarn which
is largely used at present in the Berlin wool trade under the name of "eiswool" or
ice wool." The distinguishing feature of my improved twist as compared with
the plain eiswool in present use, and upon which I mainly rely for the production of
the novel or improved effect in that class of goods, being the ringlets which are
absent in the eiswool as at present used. For this purpose I use a softly spun
single 8° or 12°, or a twofold 16° or 24° mohair yarn for the ringlet yarn, and a
2/100 Botany yarn for the two entwining threads.
The same combination I use, secondly, either as warp or weft, or both, in the
weaving of napped cloths for shawls, trimmings, and other purposes, the ringlets
standing out above the surface of the cloth and producing a novel kind of nap,
more or less dense in proportion to the larger or smaller number of ringlets upon
the yarn used for the purpose. I wish it however to be understood that I do not
confine myself to the use of the ringlet yarn for the purposes shewn, as it may be
used for a variety of other purposes.
My Invention consists, secondly, in the apparatus employed in the production of
my improved fancy twist, which may be produced upon either spinning or twisting
machinery, properly altered and adapted to the purpose. In the following I describe
the modus operandi as applied to an ordinary woollen twisting frame, and in order
that the same may be the more clearly understood, reference is made to the accom-
panying Drawing, Figure 4. Behind or above the ordinary pair of delivery rollers
B and B of an ordinary woollen twisting frame, I mount an additional pair of
delivery rollers A and A¹, destined for the delivery of the entwining threads as
before described. The ringlet yarn is passed through the ordinary pair of delivery
rollers B and B'. In front of and parallel to the ordinary delivery rollers I mount
horizontally, or nearly so, a longitudinal plate C about one inch broad and 1/16th of
an inch thick, adjustable both in a horizontal and vertical direction, in such a
manner that the said plate C can be placed within any desirable distance from the
point of contact of the ordinary pair of delivery rollers B and B¹, within a range,
say, of ½ inch to 3 or 4 inches or more, and also either on a level with the said
point of contact of the ordinary delivery rollers, or on a level lower by a few inches;
in this manner the necessary latitude is given for adjusting the position of the
plate to the nature, thickness, and twist of the ringlet yarn used, and to the size of
the ringlets to be produced, and the average distance which it is desired should exist
between them. Upon the distance between this plate and the point of contact of
the delivery rollers of the ringlet yarn depends the size of the ringlets and the
length of the spaces between them, inasmuch as the size and length of the spaces
between the ringlets increase as such distance increases, and vice versa. At the
same time it ought to be mentioned that the maximum distance which ought to be
employed in any given case in order to produce a good result, depends upon the
nature of the yarn used for the ringlet-yarn. The thicker, stiffer, and longer in
fibre the yarn is which is to be used for the ringlet yarn, the greater may be the
distance of the plate from the point of contact of the delivery rollers, while the
thinner, softer, and shorter in fibre the yarn, the nearer must be the plate to the

page_text: rollers. The size of the ringlets and the length of the spaces between them do
not, however, depend upon this distance between the plate and the rollers alone,
but also upon the proportions of the lengths of the ringlet yarn and first entwining
thread, as hereafter described, delivered to the compound yarn. It will be readily
understood that a greater length of the ringlet yarn than of each entwining thread
must be contained in the compound yarn, inasmuch as though each entwining
thread will be somewhat longer than that portion of the ringlet yarn which it
envelops, owing to being more or less coiled, whilst the enveloped portion of the
ringlet yarn lies straight, or very nearly so, still this extra length of the entwining
threads is more than made up by the extra length of the ringlet yarn required for
the ringlets. It will be clear from the foregoing that of the ringlet yarn delivered
in a given time a portion proportionate to the length of the first entwining thread
delivered in the same time must be absorbed for the purpose of being twisted with
the said entwining thread, and that only the surplus left of the ringlet yarn can be
available for forming the ringlets, and that therefore, however great may be the
distance of the plate from the point of contact of the delivery rollers of the ringlet
yarn, no large ringlets can be formed unless a sufficient length of the ringlet yarn
is delivered to allow of their formation. It will be equally clear that the ringlets
must be the smaller and further apart, the more time it takes for the accumulation
of a surplus length of ringlet yarn sufficient even for the formation of a compara-
tively small ringlet. There is, of course, in every case, a maximum and a minimum
beyond which the size of the ringlets and the surplus delivery of the ringlet yarn
for the purpose of forming the ringlets must not go or the result will be unsatisfactory.
Practical men will, however, be able to easily determine the limits within which a
satisfactory result is attainable in any given case with a given suitable material.
The compound twist is not produced by one process of twisting, but by two
successive processes. The first process, which is by far the most important of the
two, is as follows:-
I pass the ringlet yarn marked thread No. 2 in the Drawing, between the ordinary
delivery rollers B and B', and one entwining thread marked thread No. 1 in the
Drawing, through the additional delivery rollers A and A¹, and over guiding rods D
and E, suitably arranged with regard to the adjustable plate C beforementioned,
across the upper surface of which it passes in the direction from the outer
edge of the plate to the inner edge nearest to the delivery rollers of the ringlet
yarn; the entwining thread bends round this inner edge at a sharp angle
passing downwards towards the spindle I, and is wound upon a bobbin K
mounted upon the spindle in the ordinary manner. On the frame being set
in motion, the entwining thread is met just below its bend round the inner
edge of the plate C by the ringlet yarn issuing from its delivery rollers B.
and B, and both travel downwards together to the spindle I, revolving and being,
of course, twisted together in the process by the action of the revolving spindle.
As before mentioned, there is a shorter length of the entwining thread delivered
than of the ringlet yarn, the speed of the delivery rollers of both yarns being
regulated as required in the ordinary manner. In consequence thereof the
entwining thread is kept tight between its delivery rollers and the spindle. As
the ringlet yarn, however, issues from its rollers at a greater speed than the
entwining thread, whilst from their point of meeting the two threads travel of
course towards the spindle at one speed, viz., the speed of the entwining thread, it
will be clear that the ringlet yarn must become slack and slacker between the
point of contact of its delivery rollers and the point of meeting with the entwining
thread, bulging or swelling out into what may be aptly described as a wave; when
this wave has risen to a certain height, the slack ringlet yarn being acted upon
and urged forward by the twist of the revolving entwining thread in front of it,
with which it is connected as before described, doubles or bends into a ringlet, by
which act the slackness is partially and momentarily absorbed; the wave therefore
ebbs, the ringlet passes forward and is twisted up with the compound yarn,
consisting at this stage of the ringlet yarn and one entwining thread as before

page_text: described. In the meantime the slackness of the ringlet yarn between its delivery
rollers and the plate again increases, another wave flows from the delivery rollers
towards the plate and swells and ebbs through the next ringlet being formed,
which again passes forward and makes room for a repetition of the process, which
goes on constantly until the operation is finished.
It is here that the necessity becomes further apparent of a stiff and comparatively
unpliable yarn (such, for example, as mohair) being chosen for the ringlet yarn, for
if a soft and pliable yarn were used the cbbing and flowing or undulating move-
ment of the slack ringlet yarn between its delivery rollers and the plate, as
described, would either not take place at all or only very imperfectly, according to
the greater or lesser degree of softness and pliability of the yarn employed; the
slackness would indeed be there, but it would not swell into waves and be gathered
into ringlets, but the yarn would pass forward with comparatively even slackness
to the revolving entwining thread, and using the latter as its core would wind
itself round such core more or less regularly in loose spirals or loops in a similar
manner to that in which what are known as flake or loop yarns are formed.
I will here also state the main reason for employing for the entwining threads,
and more particularly for the first entwining thread, that is to say, for the one used
in the first twisting process, a thin and pliable yarn as compared with a thick and
stiff ringlet yarn is this, that when the two threads are twisting together on their
common journey from their point of meeting at the plate C down to the spindle,
the thick and stiff ringlet yarn naturally refuses to be influenced by its thin and
.pliable companion, and remains comparatively straight and uncoiled, whilst the
entwining thread being small and pliable winds and coils itself round the ringlet
yarn as its core. If there was not this difference in size and pliability the ringlet
yarn would be at liberty to follow its natural tendency as the slacker of the two
threads, and wind itself round the tighter entwining thread, which would very
materially deteriorate from the appearance and effect of the compound yarn.
will easily be understood that after the ringlet yarn the ringlets and the first
entwining thread are twisted together in the manner described; the appearance
and effect of this compound yarn will be different from its appearance and effect,
as shewn in Figures 2 and 3; owing to the considerable amount of twist which the
compound yarn received in the first process the ringlets will be scarcely apparent,
except as knobs or loops without the desired effect, and they will not be properly
fixed but shifty, as the one entwining thread is not sufficient to keep them in
position.
lt
To remedy these defects and restore the proper appearance and effect of the
compound yarn is the purpose of the second twisting process which is effected as
follows I pass the compound yarn produced in the first process through the front
or ordinary delivery rollers B and B', through which the ringlet yarn was passed
in the first twisting process, and the second entwining thread through the additional
delivery rollers A and A', through which the first entwining thread was passed in
the first twisting process. The said second entwining thread is guided in any
convenient manner (but not necessarily over the plate C employed in the first
twisting process, though, it may be done so if desired) so as to pass in front of the
ordinary delivery rollers B and B¹, where it is met by the compound yarn issuing
from the ordinary delivery rollers; and on the frame being set in motion the two
yarns pass forward to the spindle together, being of course twisted together in so
doing; the spindle must however be reversed, so as to revolve in the opposite
direction to what it did in the first twisting process. By this second twisting
process the surplus twist, which the compound yarn got on its formation in the
first process, is taken out again, the ringlets open out and assume their proper
shape, position, and appearance, and at the same time the second entwining thread
is spirally wound round the compound yarn in the manner before described in an
opposite direction to the first entwining thread, the two entwining threads holding
firmly between them that part of the ringlet yarn which forms the spaces between
the ringlets, and thereby affording a sufficiently firm and permanent basis for the

page_text: ringlets. In this second twisting process the speed of the two pairs of delivery
rollers is in the great majority of cases regulated in such a manner that a slightly
greater length of the second entwining thread is delivered than of the compound
yarn, say from five to ten per cent. more length of the former than of the latter.
This extra length of the entwining thread varies a little according to the thickness
of either the ringlet yarn or the entwining thread used, and the tightness and the
amount of twist which may be desired. In some cases there will be no extra
length required at all, or perhaps even a slightly less length of the entwining thread
than of the compound yarn. The exact proportions required in each case will be
easily ascertained by practical men.
In Figure 4 of the accompanying Drawings B and B indicate the ordinary pair
of delivery rollers A and A¹, the additional pair of delivery rollers, and C the
adjustable longitudinal plate, while thread No. 1 is the first entwining thread, and
thread No. 2 is the ringlet yarn, which threads are both shewn as guided in the
first twisting process; I is the spindle; K, the bobbin mounted thereon;
L, M, ordinary wireguides for guiding yarn to the delivery rollers; N, O, P, Q, are
four toothed wheels used for driving the additional bottom roller A from the
ordinary bottom roller B. The wheel N is fastened upon the end of roller B and
gears with the wheel O, which is mounted on a socket, together with the wheel P,
the two revolving upon a stud fixed to the stud plate shewn in the Drawing. The
wheel P gears with the wheel Q mounted on the end of roller A. By these means
the revolution of roller B causes the roller A to revolve at any desired speed,
according to the proportions of the four toothed connecting wheels employed, which
can of course be changed and varied as required.
It remains to describe the combination of parts in front of the ordinary delivery
rollers B and B. To the ordinary framework are fixed a number of castings or
bearers, of which H is an example, at, say, two yards, or any other convenient
distance apart, one of such bearers being fixed at each end of the frame. The upper
portions of such bearers present a horizontal slide and slothole, upon which are
imounted brackets R as shewn. These brackets support a longitudinal rod E, say,
of 1 inch diameter, and the same length as the bottom delivery roller B, and
running parallel to the delivery rollers and the longitudinal plate C. The rod E
is held in position by being fixed to the brackets R by means of setscrews while
fixed upon E at convenient distances apart from each other are arms F which
support the plate C. By moving the brackets R backwards or forwards upon the
slide on which they are mounted the plate C is moved horizontally either further
from or nearer to the delivery rollers B and B on a level with their point of contact,
while by partially turning the rod E the plate C is moved in a vertical or nearly
vertical direction to a lower level, as may be required. Bolted to the bearers H
are arms G which support the guidewire D running parallel to B, E, and C along
the frame, and used along with E and C for guiding the entwining thread No. 1
on its way from the delivery rollers A, A¹, to the spindle in the manner shewn
and described. As before stated in the first twisting process the plate C may be
either placed on a level with the point of contact of the ordinary pair of delivery
rollers B and B¹, or on a lower level. The following will serve as an indication as
to which of these two ways had best be adopted under given circumstances.
Let us take as an illustration a case in which the inner edge of the plate C nearest
to the delivery rollers is required to be placed at a distance of 1½ inches from the
point of contact of rollers B and B¹, say, the bottom roller B is about one inch and
à half diameter, which is an ordinary size, it will be clear that as the plate C can
be put upon a lower level it may be placed so near to the lower surface of the
roller B, and still at the proper distance of one inch and a half from the point of
contact of B and B' that the ringlet yarn passing from the rollers B and B₁ to the
plate remains in contact with the revolving bottom roller B during a great part of
the way, thus being supported and helped forward towards its goal, whilst if the
plate is placed upon the same level with the point of contact of B and B¹ at a
distance of one inch and a half therefrom, the ringlet yarn has to move across the

page_text: intervening space unsupported by the bottom roller B. Now if the ringlet yarn
is a thick stiff yarn, such, for example, as a single 8° softly twisted mohair of an
ordinary quality it requires no support between the rollers and the plate, and as
the higher level position of the plate will be found the more convenient and
accessible to the persons minding the frame it had best be chosen in all suitable
cases. As there are however yarns of many different degrees of stiffness and
softness, and the point cannot be defined where a yarn may be said to cease to be
stiff or begin to be soft, a yarn may be chosen for the ringlet yarn, which will
prove to be just below that degree of stiffness which is necessary for it to form the
ringlets in a proper manner and produce a satisfactory result if worked with the
plate C on the higher level, vizt., on the same level with the point of contact of
rollers B and B¹. In such a case the yarn may still produce a satisfactory result
if it is worked with the plate C on the lower level and near to the roller B,
owing to the help and support the yarn derives from the roller, and there will
then be a substantial advantage in adopting the lower level position of the plate C
as described. A still softer yarn than what would work properly in this lower
level position could be made to form ringlets in the higher level position if a
friction roller, say, of three quarters of an inch diameter, and revolving in the same
. direction but at a greater surface speed, say, at double the surface speed of bottom
roller B was interpolated between the delivery rollers B and B and the plate C
in such a manner that the ringlet yarn on its way from the delivery rollers to the
plate would pass over the upper surface of the said friction roller, and being in
contact therewith would be supported and helped forward still more effectually
owing to the greater speed of such roller than by the bottom roller B in the lower
level position of the plate, as before described.
As however, there would still remain the other objections, as before mentioned,
to the use of a soft and pliable ringlet yarn, whilst with a yarn sufficiently stiff' to
meet these objections no such interpolated friction roller is necessary, the said
roller has not been shewn in the Drawing of my improved apparatus.
Having thus particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
Invention, and the manner of carrying the same into effect, I would have it
understood that so far as regards the improved combined mechanical arrangement
of apparatus constituting the second part of my Invention, I do not confine myself
to the precise details hereinbefore described, as the same may admit of modification
while producing a similar result, what I claim and desire to secure by Letters
Patent is,
1°. A new or improved fancy yarn or twist consisting of a plain thread or yarn
of wool or other suitable fibrous material, either single or manifold, laid in an
undulating or wavy line, and combined with two pliable continuous entwining
threads, substantially in the manner and for the purposes hereinbefore set forth
and described.
2°. The improved combined mechanical arrangement of apparatus consisting of
the additional rollers A, A¹, adjustable plate C, toothed wheels N, O, P, Q, bearers H,
brackets R, rod E, and when necessary an interpolated friction roller, as hereinbefore
mentioned, in combination with rollers B, B₁, spindle I, bobbin K, guides L, M,
guidewire D, and arms F, G, all substantially as hereinbefore described and
illustrated, or any mere modification thereof.
In witness whereof, I, the said Gustavus Adolphus John Schott, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, this Fifteenth day of February, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and eighty one.
GUSTAVUS ADOLPHUS JOHN SCHOTT. (L.S.)