IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE Or WEARING APPAREL, SUCH AS COATS, VESTS, TROUSERS, JACKETS, SHIRTS, DRAWERS, AND OTHER SIMILAR ARTICLES
Year: 1870

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Mathew Lawson, of Leeds, in the County of
York, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE Or
WEARING APPAREL, SUCH AS COATS, VESTS, TROUSERS, JACKETS, SHIRTS,
DRAWERS, AND OTHER SIMILAR ARTICLES."
Sealed the 3rd March 1871, and dated the 8th September 1870.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Mathew Lawson at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
8th September 1870.
I, MATHEW LAWSON, of Leeds, in the County of York, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANU-
FACTURE OF WEARING APPAREL, SUCH AS COATS, VESTS, TROUSERS, JACKETS, SHIRTS,
DRAWERS, AND OTHER SIMILAR ARTICLES," to be as follows:-
My Invention consists of a sectional method of measuring, "drafting,"
and cutting out the work previous to the operation of stitching or
sewing.
First. I divide the required portion of the body into sections corre-
sponding with the anatomical prominencies; at each sectional point I

page_text: place a plumb line, which may be dropped from the largest anatomical
prominence in the section; I then measure from the plumb line to
various parts in the section, and obtain therefrom the exact profile.
Having obtained the required dimensions I mark out the vertical
sectional lines on paper or other suitable material, and call them profile
lines. I then intersect them transversely by one or more lines called
the lines of intersection. All the dimensions are marked which had
been previously taken from the plumb line, and the lines of formation
are then readily described. This being done the patterns are prepared
and placed on the material to be operated upon; it will then be found
that the forms contained in each section by adjustment fit each other in
such a manner that many of the joinings hitherto necessary are entirely
dispensed with, producing thereby an economy in material and labour,
and an unlimited range for variety of form and construction may be
obtained
°
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Mathew Lawson in the Great Seal Patent Office
on the 8th March 1871.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, MATHEW
LAWSON, of Leeds, in the County of York, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Eighth day of September, in the year of
our Lord, One thousand eight hundred and seventy, in the thirty-
fourth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors,
give and grant unto me, the said Mathew Lawson, Her special licence
that I, the said Mathew Lawson, my executors, administrators, and
assigns, or such others I, as the said Mathew Lawson, my executors,
administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no
others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the term
therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the
Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
THE MANUFACTURE OF WEARING APPAREL, SUCH AS COATS, VESTS, TROUSERS,
JACKETS, SHIRTS, DRAWERS, AND OTHER SIMILAR ARTICLES," upon the condition

page_text: of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Mathew Lawson, do hereby declare
the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement, reference being had to the accompanying Drawings,
and to the letters of reference marked thereon, that is to say :—
My Invention consists of a sectional method of measuring, "drafting,"
and cutting out the work previous to the operation of stitching or
sewing.
First. I divide the required portion of the body into sections corre-
sponding with the anatomical prominencies; at each sectional point I
place a plumb line, which may be dropped from the largest anatomical
prominence in the section; I then measure from the plumb line to
various parts in the section, and obtain therefrom the exact profile.
Having obtained the required dimensions I mark out the vertical
sectional lines on paper or other suitable material, and call them profile
lines. I then intersect them transversely by one or more lines called
the lines of intersection. All the dimensions are marked which had
been previously taken from the plumb line, and the lines of formation
are then readily described. This being done the patterns are prepared
and placed on the material to be operated upon; it will then be found
that the forms contained in each section by adjustment fit each other in
such a manner that many of the joinings hitherto necessary are entirely
dispensed with, producing thereby an economy in material and labour,
and an unlimited range for variety of form and construction may be
obtained.
And in order that my Invention may be more completely under-
stand T
ARRA
and newood
decoribe the accompanying Sheat of

page_text: First. I divide the required portion of the body into sections, as shewn
by dotted lines in Figs. 1, 2, and 3, corresponding with the anatomical
prominencs. At each sectional point or line I place the plumb line a
which is placed so as to touch the largest anatomical prominence, as
shewn in Fig. 1. The plumb line a may in this manner be placed at
any sectional point. I then measure from the plumb line a to the
various points within the sections; as, for instance, from arrow point b
to the arrow point c, Fig. 1; any number of points may be measured in
this manner, and the exact profile obtained therefrom. Having obtained
these dimensions I mark on paper or other material lines corresponding
with the vertical, sectional, or plumb line a, as shewn in dotted lines at
Figs. 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8, these I intersect transversely by one or more lines
called the lines of intersection, as shewn and marked d, e, f, and g, in
Figs. 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8, which correspond with the lines d, e, f, and_g,
Figs. 1, 2, and 3. After all the dimensions thus obtained are marked all
the various forms composing the garment are easily traced and produced
as shewn in Figs. 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8. This being done the forms or
patterns are prepared and placed on the material to be operated upon in
the ordinary way, and the required form cut out. Fig. 9 shews the
various sectional parts placed together representing half a garment; it
will be seen by this Figure that the collar is not sewn on as in the
ordinary way, but is cut out in one piece with section 7.
<<
"
When my Invention is applied to loose fitting garments, as, for
instance, to a mackintosh or other loose overcoat, the body of the
coat, as shewn at Fig. 10, may be made with only one joining, as, for
instance, at the chest section, as shewn at Figure 10. The one joining
may be made at any section, dispensing with all joinings at the collar
and other parts of the garment. In loose garments, such as the
"mackintosh " aforesaid, a considerable saving of labour is effected, and
in close fitting wearing apparel both economy in material and labour is
obtained.
In the application of my Invention to other classes of garments, such
as vests, trousers, jackets, shirts, drawers, and other similar articles, it
will be readily understood that the manner of producing them is identical
with those garments I have herein-before described and shewn. In
addition to the plumb line a when required more complete measurement
is obtained by the method shewn at h, in Fig. 9. The sections in this

page_text: The
instance are marked on the body and are measured off, as, for example,
from point to point j, and from point to point 1, the formation
of all the other sections may be obtained in a similar manner.
circumferential measuremement is taken on the lines of intersection.
Having now described the nature of my said Invention, and the
manner in which the same is to be performed, I do not limit myself to
the exact details and configuration of parts shewn and explained, as the
same may be varied or modified without in any way departing from my
Invention; but what I do claim and désire to be secured to me by
Letters Patent is, the sectional measurement and method of cutting out
garments, substantially as and for purposes hercin set forth and illus-
trated in the accompanying Drawings.
In witness whereof, I, the said Mathew Lawson, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Sixth day of March, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-one.