AN IMPROVED BOOT OR SHOE
Year: 1885

page_text: "
I, WILLIAM ROBERT LAKE, of the firm of Haseltine Lake & Co Patent Agents,
Southampton Buildings, in the County of Middlesex, do hereby declare the nature
of my invention for "AN IMPROVED BOOT OR SHOE' and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement :-
This invention relates to boots or shoes, provided with elastic webbing or goring
which yields in drawing the boots or shoes on and off, and which when on the foot
secures a close fit about the ankle and instep of the foot, and the small of the leg
immediately above the ankle.
The objects of this invention are to increase the facility with which boots or
shoes may be drawn on and off; to improve the closeness of their fit about the
instep and ankle of the foot and the small of the leg immediately above the ankle,
and to increase the durability and wear of the elastic webbing or goring.
In constructing a boot or shoe according to this invention, the elastic webbing
or goring is shaped and applied so as to embrace the small of the leg at the back,
and on each side behind the ankle bone, immediately above the counter or hind-
quarters; and also at each side of the foot so as to extend under the ankle bone,
forward and below and in a longitudinal direction for a portion of the length of
the instep; all the other parts of the upper are made of leather or other non-elastic
material, producing a boot or shoe upper in which the toe; the vamp; the instep;
the front or leg, above and at each side of the instep, covering the ankle-bone on
each side; and the hind quarters and counter, are of a non-elastic material, such as
leather, all substantially as hereinafter fully described.
In the accompanying drawing,
Figure 1 is a side view of a boot constructed according to this invention.
Figure 2 is a horizontal section on the line x-x, Figure 1.
Figures 3 and 4, are plan views of some of the leather parts of the upper, and
those to which the elastic webbing or goring is directly secured.
Figure 5 is a plan view of the elastic webbing before being applied to the boot.
Figure 6 is a sectional view of a detail hereinafter referrod to.
Грай 071

page_text: Figure 7 is a plan view illustrating a blank from which to make a seamless upper
to receive the elastic goring of Figure 5, and
Figures 8 and 9 are views illustrating the shape of its opposite sides after being
crimped and cut to form.
Figure 10 is a side view of a lady's button boot, made in accordance with this
invention.
A is the sole, B is its heel, and C, D, and E are the parts of the upper of the
boot forming the toe a; the vamp b; the instep f, or the leg above and at each side
of the instep, and covering the ankle-bone on cach side; the hind quarters g, and
the counter inside the same, all made of a non elastic material, such as leather, and
as well known.
F is the elastic webbing or goring. This goring F is shaped to surround and
embrace the small of the leg at the back and at each side, and to be joined by
stitches or otherwise to the parts of the non-elastic upper which cover the ankle-
bones on each side, and along a line back of said ankle-bones, and also to be joined
by stitches or otherwise to the upper edge of the hind quarters g.
The elastic goring on each side of the boot has a portion H, extending under the
ankle-bone, along, and forward of the ankle bone, and having a curvilinear
direction, more or less, corresponding to the curving contour ligitudinally of and
below the instep I, and terminating at its forward point l, at the side and under
the instep of the boot.
As the ankle-bones of the foot are not directly opposite each other, the non
clastic part of the upper covering them is made wider on one side than on the
other side of the boot (see Figure 2), instead of equal width as lieretofore, thereby
securing a proportionate increase in the width of the elastic goring, a very important
consideration and advantage, as is obvious.
J is an extension of the hind-quarters g, upward and just above the counter and
at the back of the boot, and above said extension the elastic goring F continues to
the top of the boot and, in substance, makes the covering for the small of the leg
at the back and directly above the counter.
This upward continuation of the elastic goring above the counter is preferably
mado straight at the centre back line, as shown, instead of inwardly curving or
concaving, as heretofore.
The upward extension of the hind-quarter above the counter at the back prevents
the heel of the foot catching upon the top of the counter in drawing the boot onto
the foot.
L and M are straps the strap L being attached to the boot at the front of the
upper. The strap M is attached to the elastic goring F at the back and at the
upper end thereof only, and thence extends down inside said goring and is attached
to the hind quarters g just above the counter, and from thenco is preferably con-
tinued and lasted under the insole at the heel. This attachment of the strap M is
shown in detail view in figure 6, which is a vertical sectional view showing also the
counter N, and the hind-quarter projecting above its upper edge.
The straps L and M are for convenience in pulling the boot on or off the foot.
One of the essential features in the construction of the boot just described,
consists in shaping the elastic goring to embrace the back of the small of the leg
and each side thereof, the ankle-bones on each side of the foot being covered by a
non elastic part of the boot and also to extend under the ankle-bones on each side
of the foot and forward therefrom under the instep. A boot thus made can be
most conveniently and easily put on and taken off the foot; it fits the foot better
over the instop, about the ankle and the small of the leg above the ankles, and the
trousers are kept from friction and rubbing upon the elastic webbing, thus saving
the latter from wear and increasing its durability.
The back strap M being attached in the manner described the elastic action of
the goring is not interfered with, and the attachment is a most strong one for
pulling the boot on and off the foot.
'

page_text: It is preferable to project the goring at its upper portion and at the back of the
boot, backward as shown in figure 1, securing thereby the better shaping of the boot
to the foot and bringing the strains upon the goring more perfectly in the lines of
strains on the boot in putting it on and pulling it off.
The elastic goring preferably is made of one piece, without seam, but can be made
in pieces and seamed at the back. The non elastic parts of the upper may be
made according to any of the well known modes of manufacture.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, as communicated
to me by my foreign Correspondent I declare that what I claim is
First. A boot or shoe the upper of which has an elastic goring F shaped, as
shown, to cover the small of the leg at its back from the counter upward and also
at each side behind the ankle-bones, and thence to project at each side, with
an extension H, under and to the front of the ankle-bones and below and in
line with the instep; and which has the non-elastic material, such as leather, shaped
and constructed to cover the remaining portions of the foot, the whole being secured
together, substantially as described, for the purposes specified.
Second. A boot or shoe the upper of which has an elastic goring F, which is
shaped, as shown, to cover the small of the leg at its back from the counter upward
and is provided with an extension H at each side, but behind and crossing under
the ankle-bones, and made wider on one side than on the other of the gaiter, the
other portions of the upper having a rear upward extension, of non-elastic material,
such as leather, shaped and constructed to cover the remaining portions of the
foot, the whole being attached together, substantially as described for the purposes
specified.