Improvements in the Manufacture of Glove and other Fabrics in Traverse Warp Machines.
Year: 1889

page_text: Date of Application, 18th Apr., 1889
Complete Specification Left, 9th Sept., 1889-Accepted, 21st Sept., 1889
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Glove and other Fabrics in
Traverse Warp Machines.
I, John Upsdale of 4 Falcon Avenue, Falcon Street in the City of London,
Merchant, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
The object of this invention is to produce traverse Milanese silk taffeta with stripes
of thickened work across the fabric at intervals. Such fabrics are used in the
manufacture of gloves with thickened tips to the fingers and for other purposes.
In the manufacture of Milanese silk taffeta and other such like warp fabrics the
bar known as the "taking up" bar deposits, or places the silk on the needles, which
operation is known as the "lap" and what is termed "pressing" then takes place to
complete the loop. This is.ordinary traverse Milanese silk taffeta.
According to my invention in order to produce stripes of thickened work across the
fabric at intervals I provide for stopping one portion of the machinery, whilst the
"taking up" bar places another "lap" on the needles during the time that a thickened
stripe is being produced. The pressing then takes place, completing the loop with two
threads in it, instead of one thread as in the ordinary Milanese silk taffeta, thus
doubling the number of threads in each loop and more if required, thereby thickening
the fabric to any extent' desired.
"
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION (AMENDED).
Improvements in the Manufacture of Glove and other Fabrics in
Traverse Warp Machines.
I, JOHN UPSDALE, of 4 Falcon Avenue, Falcon Street, in the City of London,
Merchant, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same
is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement:―
The object of this invention is mainly to produce traverse Milanese silk taffeta with
stripes of thickened work across the fabric at intervals. Such fabrics are used in the
manufacture of gloves with thickened tips to the fingers and for other purposes.
In the manufacture of Milanese silk taffeta and other such like warp fabrics the bar
known as the "taking-up" bar deposits, or places the silk on the needles, which
operation is known as the "lap" and what is termed "pressing" then takes place
to complete the loop. This is ordinary traverse Milanese silk taffeta.
According to my invention in order to produce stripes of thickened work across
the fabric at intervals I provide for stopping one portion of the machinery, whilst the
taking-up" bar places another "lap" on the needles during the time that a thickened
stripe is being produced. The pressing then takes place, completing the loop with
two threads in it, instead of one thread as in the ordinary Milanese silk taffeta, thus
doubling the number of threads in each loop and more if required, thereby thickening
the fabric to any extent desired.

page_text: In carrying out my invention I employ a machine constructed substantially in
the manner described in the specification of a patent granted to William Hemsley
No. 13635 in the year 1851. In this machine the cams by which movement is given
to the various parts of the machine are so formed that two courses of work are
produced for one revolution of the cam shaft-each cam being formed with the two
opposite sides of its circumference of exactly the same contour.
In order to enable in such a machine two laps to be placed on to the needles in place
of a single lap as heretofore each time before pressing takes place, I provide for
changing the contour of one half of some of the cams so that after the first lap has
been made the presser bar may remain out of action and the sinkers remain down so
that the nebs of the sinkers may keep this lap divided from the loops of work which
remain on the stems of the nee.lles. I also provide for reducing the tension on the
threads passing from all the bobbins just at the time when pressing takes place and
the loops of work on the stems of the needles are cut off-other small modifications
are also made.
Figure 1 is a face view and Figure 2 an edge view of the cam I use for giving
motion to the presser-one portion A of this cam can as will be seen be shifted
towards or from the cam shaft and can be locked in either position by the bolts B.
When set in its outer position as shown the cam will cause the presser to act against
the beards of the needles after each lap. When set in its inner position the cam will
cause the presser to act after two laps have been placed on the needles.
Figure 3 is a face view and Figure 4 an edge view of the cam used for raising and
lowering the sinkers. The cam his attached to it a piece C by bolts D-when the
piece is locked to the cam in the position shown the sinkers would remain down whilst
a second lap was being placed on to the needles-when ordinary traverse warp is to
be made the piece is shifted inwards towards the cam shaft so that no part of it
projects beyond the circumference of the cam.
There is also a small depression made in the circumference of the cam at E which
when ordinary traverse warp is to be made can be rendered inoperative by setting
forwards the piece F. When the piece F is held back in the position shown the
descent of the sinkers during the time of the knocking over of the work is reduced
there being at this time two laps on the needles.
Figure 5 is a face view and Figure 6 an edge view of the cam used for moving the
sinkers forward to knock over the work. One half G of this cam shown by dotted
lines in Figure 5 is made so that it can be entirely removed during the time that the
machine is being used to produce thickened work.
The opposite half of the cam has also secured to it a piece H which when the
portion G is removed is set forward into the position shown at Figure 5 so as to give
a somewhat further forward movement to the sinkers for knocking over the work
when there are two laps on the needles.
The cams for actuating the taking up points have also to be somewhat modified when
two laps are being placed on to the needles.
-
Figure 7 is a face view and Figure 8 an edge view of the cam used for giving a
backward and forward movement to these points. When the points are putting the
second lap on to the needles they require a little more backward movement to be
given to them to do this the cam has fixed to it a piece I which when two laps are
being placed on the needles is set forward into the position shown. When ordinary
traverse warp is being produced it is set back out of action.
Figure 9 is a face view and Figure 10 an edge view of the can used for giving
an upward and downward movement to the taking up points.
The cam is formed with a hollow at J in order that when two laps are being
placed on to the needles the upward movement may be given to the points a little
later so that they may not be raised until tension has been again put on the
threads.
Figure 11 is a face view and Figure 12 an edge view of the cam for giving an
end way to and fro movement to the traverse bar.
On one half of the cam the rise K upon it shown in dotted lines in Figure 11

page_text: is made moveable so that when two laps are being placed on the needles it may
be withdrawn and put out of action and another corresponding piece K' moved
forward in place of it so that this rise in the cam may do its work a little later-this
is done in consequence of the taking up points rising a little later.
The way in which provision is made for relieving all the threads of tension at the
time when pressing takes place is shewn at Figures 13 and 14.
Figure 13 is a plan view taken near one end of the machine showing some of the
endless chain of the bobbins upon which the threads are wound. Figure 14 is a
vertical section taken through the same.
L L are the bobbins each of which has several threads wound thereon-each bobbin
is on a carriage M and the carriages are as heretofore hinged together to form an
endless chain-friction is also as heretofore offered to the unwinding of the threads
from the bobbins by weighted cords or bands N. When the bobbins are to be
relieved from friction the weights O on the cords or bands N are all caused to be
simultaneously lifted-to do this each carriage M has a lever arm P jointed to it
and the arm is coupled by a link Qwith the weight. The ends of all the lever
arms P are made to rest on an oblong horizontal ring R which extends from one end
to the other of the machine.
The ring R is supported at intervals by arms S which extend from two parallel
shafts T. Other arms U on these shafts are coupled by links with a rocking lover V
which is itself coupled by a link to a rocking lever V₁ that is acted on by a cam W
on the cam shaft. On this cam is a projection W which at each revolution of the
cam and just before the pressing off of the work causes the shafts T to be rocked and
to lift the horizontal ring R and when the horizontal ring is lifted it lifts all the
lever arms P and thereby raises the weights O and relieves the weight on the
threads and enables the sinkers to what is called knock the loop or lap over the needle
head to complete the loop in the thickening courses which cannot be done without.
In addition to arins S being used to lift the ring each end of the ring is also lifted
by a rocking lever X which turns on a fixed centre at X'. One end of the lover is
acted on by an arm Y on the shaft and the other end acts on a pin Z¹ carried by
a projection Z from a plate which is secured to the end of the ring.
When ordinary traverse warp is to be made the link which couples the lever V
to the lever V₁ is disconnected and the ring R then remains down and out of
action.
When fabric with stripes of thickened work across it at intervals is to be produced
the desired length of plain fabric is first made, then the machine is stopped and
the desired changes made in the various cams as above mentioned and the machine
again set to work until the desired length of thickened fabric has been made-the
machine is then again stopped and the required changes again made to adapt the
machine to produce plain work and so on.
In cases where it is desired to produce thickened work with treble the number of
threads in each loop in place of double the number of threads then the cams on the
cam shaft would be formed to produce three courses of ordinary traverse warp
fabric and parts of them would be made capable of being put out of action whenever
desired in a similar manner to that above described.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
Invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. A traverse warp machine constructed in such manner that substantially as herein
before described to enable two laps ean to be placed on to the needles before each pressing
in place of a single lap only as heretofore.
2. A traverse warp machine constructed in such manner that substantially as
herein before described to enable either ordinary traverse warp fabric may to be made in
it with a single lap placed on to the needles before each pressing or a thickened fabric
with two laps placed on to the needles before each pressing. substantially as described.

page_text: 3. The manufacture of glove- and other fabries in a traverse warp machines
with constructed substantially as herein before described of glove and other fabrics having
alternate stripes of traverse warp fabric made as heretofore with a single lap before
each pressing and other stripes of thicker work made with two laps to each pressing.
Dated this 14th day of August 1889.
JOHN UPSDALE.