IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY FOR SEWING AND STITCHING
Year: 1863

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Newton Wilson, of No. 144, Iligh Holborn,
in the County of Middlesex, and James Graham Grey, of No. 97,
Cheapside, in the City of London, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS
IN MACHINERY FOR SEWING AND STITCHING."
Sealed the 16th October 1863, and dated the 24th April 1863.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Newton Wilson
and James Graham Grey at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents,
with their Petition, on the 24th April 1863.
We, WILLIAM NEWTON WILSON, of No. 144, High Holborn, in the County
of Middlesex, and JAMES GRAHAM GREY, of No. 97, Cheapside, in the City of
London, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN MACHINERY FOR SEWING AND STITCHING," to be as follows:-
Our improvements relate to the combining of certain new and useful con-
trivances in what is technically termed the feed motion to those machines which
are now in use, and which are adapted to what is called the four-feed motion
machine.
Instead of confining the four-feed motion to its up, forward, down, and
backward motion, only to direct the cloth in a line at right angles with the
body of the machine, and which feeds one way, I have what is called & reverse

page_text: movement attached to the said feed motion, which throws the feeding lever
from the cams which actuate it for one direction and brings it into contact
with other cams and actuate it for feeding in another direction, so that the up,
forward, down, and backward motion of the feed is moved at right angles one
from the other, thereby sewing lines of stitches at right angles to each
other without turning around the cloth. The whole operation of reversing the
feed motion will be easily seen by reference to the accompanying Drawings,
the feed being adapted in this especial case to what is technically called a
shuttle machine.
Figure 1 represents a sectional elevation of the bed arm of the machine
where the vertical shaft A is suspended, in which are attached the cams B, C,
and D. To effect the feed movements before described, these several cams
operate on the feed lever E, having a fulcrum point at F. The lever extends
to the point G, on to which is a curved point, as shewn more clearly in plans,
Sheet 1, Figures 3 and 4. When the feed movement is required to propel the
cloth at right angles with the arm of the machine and in the direction of the
toe of the presser plate the lever E is actuated by the cam C to produce
what is termed the forward and back movements, while the surface cam B
produces the upward and downward movements, thereby completing at each
revolution the motion for the feed as before described (viz.), the up, forward,
down, and backward movements, which is the ordinary feed of sewing machines
using the four-feed motion. But when lines of stitching are required at right
angles to each other, then we use our improved motion to reverse such feed by
moving the handle of the lever II from the position I to the position K, this
lever being attached to the rocking bar L, on to which is affixed a stud
piece M, which actuates the reversing bar or slide N, on the other end of which
are attached two studs O and P; on the upper end of these studs there are
friction rollers. When the machine is set right for the ordinary feed motion,
the heel piece of the lever E at Q is brought into contact with the friction
roller in the end of the stud piece P, as shewn in Sheet 1, Figures 1 and 3,
thereby releasing the toe piece R from the cam D, the handle H for
reversing being at the point I in Fig. 1. But when it is required to
reverse the feed, the handle H is brought to the point K, which actuates on
the slide bar N bringing the stud pins O and P to the positions as shewn in
Figures 2 and 4. The stud O comes into contact with the nose piece Gat
the end of the slide bar E, at the same time releasing the feed lever from the
cam C, and bringing the nose piece R into contact with the cam D, which is
kept in contact by the spring S. This produces a backward and forward

page_text: movement, the reverse of the one before described; at the same time the flat
cam B actuates on the lever E to produce the upward and downward move-
ments of the four-motion feed, but in the reverse direction of that before
described, so that when the machine is in full operation, the lever for reversing
being in the position of I, sews in the direction at right angles of the arm of
the machine, but if brought down to the point K, the cloth is fed in a line
with the arm of the machine, and at right angles to the previous line of
stitches.
Another improvement connected with the shuttle box and shuttle as repre-
sented in Sheet 1, Figures 3, 4, and 5, in which S is the shuttle race; T, tho
shuttle box; U, the shuttle; V, V, are two inclined planes placed inside and
affixed to the bottom of the shuttle box, so that when the shuttle rests on these
inclined planes the shuttle will always have a tendency to press forward. to
the front of the shuttle race, insuring its passing through the loop, and doing
away with the necessity of having set screws to set up the shuttle box.
Another improvement is shewn in Sheet 1, Figure 6 (which is drawn full
size), and is termed the stitch regulator to determine the distance of one stitch
from another. The feeding lever E having a fulcrum at F, as before described,
bas attached near the front end a tappet piece (W,) the end of which has an
inclined surface W₁, which corresponds to an inclined surface on the end of the
stitch regulator X, which is regulated and adjusted by the two screws Y, Y,
so that when it is required to elongate the stitch the regulator is moved back-
ward, and if to shorten the stitch it is moved the contrary way.
Further improvements in sewing machines are represented in Drawings,
Sheet 2, Figures 1, 2, and 3, in which Figure 1 is a side elevation; Figure 2,
a front elevation; and Figure 3, a plan of the machine. The needle is worked
in a slide by a lever connected with the first mover in the ordinary way. The
needle takes the thread from the spool with a proper tension, it passes through
the cloth forming a loop underneath, as shewn in Figure 1, marked A.
This loop is picked up by means of the hook needle B, which is actuated
on by means of the crank C, and is guided by the slide piece D working on the
pin E. so that as the axis revolves and reciprocates the slide piece, the point
which holds the hook needle B describes a curve of a character which passes
the point of the hook above the spool case or holder G, and catches it, passing
it between the shield or guide and over the spool case in its course downwards,
while the vertical needle takes up the loop stitch and completes what is
technically called a lock stitch. Thus by the action of the hook needle B in
connection with the circular shuttle or spoul holder G, and the vertical needle A,

page_text: the lock stitch is produced by the needle B passing the loop of the vertical
needle A between the guide and the spool case or holder G, the tightening
of the stitch being effected by the receding of the vertical needle in the
ordinary way.
Another novelty in this machine is the brake wheel H having on its
periphery a lining of india-rubber I, I, or any other soft and elastic material
into which the catch J is directed, it being suspended by the pin K, so that
when there is an effort made to turn the machine the wrong way, the catch J
impinges into the india-rubber band I, I, thereby preventing it from being
turned the reverse way.
What we claim as new is,―
Firstly, the reverse motion in combination with the shuttle and needle,
also the improved shuttle box and feed motion as shewn in Sheet 1, and fully
described in this Specification.
Secondly, the combination of the reciprocating hook needle and circular
shuttle or spool holder for producing a lock stitch.
Thirdly, the combination of the brake in connection with the vertical and
reciprocating needles and circular shuttle or spool case, or the connection of
the same form of brake to the first mover or a disk or pulley or fly wheel of
any sewing machine.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said William Newton Wilson and James Graham Grey
in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 21st October 1863.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, WILLIAM
NEWTON WILSON, of Number 144, High Holborn, in the County of Middlesex,
and JAMES GRAHAM GREY, of Number 97, Cheapside, in the City of London,
send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-fourth day of April, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-three, in the twenty-sixth
year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant
unto us, the said William Newton Wilson and James Graham Grey, Her
special licence, that we, the said William Newton Wilson and James Graham
Grey, our executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as we, the
said William Newton Wilson and James Graham Grey, our executors,
administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others,

page_text: from time to time and at all times thereafter during the term therein
expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within
the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and
Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY FOR SEWING
AND STITCHING," upon the condition (amongst others) that we, the said William
Newton Wilson and James Graham Grey, our executors or administrators, by
an instrument in writing under our or their, or one of their hands and seals,
should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention,
and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same
to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months
next and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that we, the said William Newton Wilson and James
Graham Grey, do hereby declare the nature of our said Invention, and in
what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement:-
Our improvements relate to the combining of certain new and useful con-
trivances in what is technically termed the feed motion to those machines
which are now in use, and which are adapted to what is called the four-feed
motion machine.
Instead of confining the four-feed motion to its up, forward, down, and
backward motion, only to direct the cloth in a line at right angles with the
body of the machine, and which feeds one way, I have what is called a reverse
movement attached to the said feed motion, which throws the feeding lever
from the cams which actuate it for one direction and brings it into contact
with other cams, and actuate it for feeding in another direction, so that the up,
forward, down, and backward motion of the feed is moved at right angles one
from the other, thereby sewing lines of stitches at right angles to each other
without turning around the cloth. The whole operation of reversing the feed
motion will be easily seen by reference to the accompanying Drawings, the
feed being adapted in this especial case to what is technically called a shuttle
machine.
Figure 1 represents a sectional elevation of the bed arm of the machine
where the vertical shaft A is suspended, on which are attached the cams B, C,
and D. To effect the feed movements before described, these several cams
operate on the feed lever E, having a fulcrum point at F. The lever extends
to the point G, on to which is a curved point, as shewn more clearly in plans,
Figure 3 and 4. When the feed movement is required to propel the cloth at
right angles with the arm of the machine and in the direction of the toe of

page_text: the presser plate, the lever E is actuated by the cam C to produce what is
termed the forward and back movements, while the surface cam B produces
the upward and downward movements, thereby completing at each revolution
the motion for the feed as before described (viz.), the up, forward, down, and
backward movements, which is the ordinary feed of sewing machines using
the four-feed motion. But when lines of stitching are required at right angles
to each other, then we use our improved motion to reverse such feed, by
moving the handle of the lever H from the position I to the position K, this
lever being attached to the rocking bar L, on to which is affixed a stud piece M
which actuates the reversing bar or slide N, on the other end of which are
attached two studs O and P; on the upper end of these studs there are friction
rollers. When the machine is set right for the ordinary feed motion, the heel
piece of the lever E at Q is brought into contact with the friction roller in the
end of the stud piece P, as shewn in Figures 1 and 3, thereby releasing the
toe piece R from the cam D, the handle H for reversing being at the point
I in Figure 1; but when it is required to reverse the feed, the handle H is
brought to the point K, which actuates on the slide bar N, bringing the stud
pins O and P to the positions as shewn in Figures 2 and 4. The stud O
comes into contact with the nose piece G at the end of the slide bar E, at
the same time releasing the feed lever from the cam C, and bringing the
nose picco R into contact with the cam D, which is kept into contact by the
spring s. This produces a backward and forward movement, the reverse of the
one before described; at the same time the flat cam B actuates on the lever E to
produce the upward and downward movements of the four-motion feed, but in
the reverse direction of that before described, so that when the machine is in
full operation the lever for reversing being in the position of I, sews in the
direction at right angles of the arm of the machine, but if erought down to
the point K, the cloth is fed in a line with the arm of the machine, and at
right angles to the previous line of stitches.
Another improvement connected with the shuttle box and shuttle as repre-
sented in Figures 3, 4, and 5, in which S is the shuttle race; T, the shuttle
box; U, the shuttle; V, V, are two inclined planes placed inside and affixed
to the bottom of the shuttle box, so that when the shuttle rests on these inclined
planes the shuttle will always have a tendency to press forward to the front of
the shuttle race, insuring its passing through the loop and doing away with
the necessity of having set screws to set up the shuttle box.
Another improvement is shewn in Figure 6 (which is drawn full size), and
is termed the stitch regulator, to determine the distance of one stitch from

page_text: another. The feeding lever E having a fulcrum at F, as before described, has
attached near the front end a tappet piece (W), the end of which has an
inclined surface W', which corresponds to an inclined surface on the end of
the stitch regulator X, which is regulated and adjusted by the two screws Y, Y,
so that when it is required to elongate the stitch the regulator is moved back-
ward, and if to shorten the stitch it is moved the contrary way.
Further improvements in sewing machines are represented in Figures 7, 8,
and 9, in which Figure 7 is a side elevation; Figure 8, a front elevation; and
Figure 9, a plan of the machine. The needle is worked in a slide by a lever
connected with the first mover in the ordinary way. The needle takes the thread
from the spool with a proper tension, it passes through the cloth, forming a loop
underneath, as shewn in Figure 7, marked a. This loop is picked up by
means of the hook needle b, which is actuated on by means of the crank c, and
is guided by the slide piece d working on the pin e, so that as the axis revolves
and reciprocates the slide piece, the point which holds the hook needle b
describes a curve of a character which passes the point of the hook above
the spool case or holder g, and catches it, passing it between the shield or guide
and over the spool case in its course downwards, while the verticle needle
takes up the loop stitch and completes what is technically called a lock stitch.
Thus by the action of the hook needle fin connection with the circular shuttle
or spool holder 9 and the vertical needle d, the lock stitch is produced by
the needle 6 passing the loop of the vertical needle A between the guide and
the spool case or holder g, the tightening of the stitch being effected by the
receding of the vertical needle in the ordinary way.
Another novelty in this machine is the brake wheel h having on its periphery
a lining of india-rubber i, i, or any other soft and elastic material, into which
the catch j is directed, it being suspended by the pin k, so that when there is an
effort made to turn the machine the wrong way, the catch j impinges into the
india-rubber band i, i, thereby preventing it from being turned the reverse
way.
What we claim as new is,-
Firstly, the reverse motion in combination with the shuttle and needle, also
the improved shuttle box and feed motion, as shewn in the Drawings and fully
described in this Specification.
Secondly, the combination of the reciprocating book needle and circular
shuttle or spool holder for producing a lock stitch.
Thirdly, the combination of the brake in connection with the vertical and
reciprocating needles and circular shuttle or spool case, or the connection of

page_text: the same form of brake to the first mover or a disk or pully or fly wheel of
any sewing machine.
In witness whereof, we, the said William Newton Wilson and James
Graham Grey, have hereunto set our hands and seals, this
day of
hundred and sixty-three.
in the year of our Lord One thousand eight
WILLIAM NEWTON WILSON. (L.S.)
JAMES GRAHAM GREY.
(L.S.)