IMPROVED MACHINERY FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF A MATERIAL OR FABRIC FOR MAKING IMITATION FEATHERS, PLUMES, AND ANALOGOUS ARTICLES
Year: 1879

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Alexander Melville Clark, of 53, Chancery Lane, in the
County of Middlesex, Patent Agent, for the Invention of "IMPROVED
MACHINERY FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF A MATERIAL OR FABRIC FOR
MAKING IMITATION FEATHERS, PLUMES, AND ANALOGOUS ARTICLES." A
communication from abroad by Morris Simon Heymann, Seymour Morris
Heymann, and Henry Morris Heymann, all of the City, County, and State of
New York, United States of America.
Sealed the 30th September 1879, and dated the 30th July 1879.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION filed by the said Alexander Melville Clark at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 30th July 1879.
ALEXANDER MELVILLE CLARK, of 53, Chancery Lane, in the County of Middlesex,
Patent Agent. "IMPROVED MACHINERY FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF A MATERIAL
OR FABRIC FOR MAKING IMITATION FEATHERS, PLUMES, AND ANALOGOUS
ARTICLES." A communication from abroad by Morris Simon Heymann, Seymour
Morris Heymann, and Henry Morris Heymann, all of the City, County, and State
of New York, United States of America.
This Invention has for its object to produce a machine for the manufacture of
artificial feathers, or rather for the manufacture of the -material used in making
artificial feathers, plumes, and analogous articles. The material to be made on the
machine is illustrated in Figures 13 and 14 of the Drawings, and consists really of
a central stem a and sidewardly projecting fibres b, which on the stem have the
appearance of the fine downy vanes of a feather. In producing this fabric it is
necessary to wind around a central core, which may be made of wire or any other
material the substance which is to produce the vanes or fibrous sides of the feather.
For this purpose silken threads are usually employed, but any other material may
be used. The machine operates to wind the silk around the central core or wire
forming loops of any desired diameter, which loops by a separate thread are tied to
the core or wire immediately after or at the time they are cut open by means of
a knife to form the fibrous projections on the core or stem as already stated.
'
The core or stèm carrying these projections is now twisted on its own axis so as
to be entirely surrounded brush like, by the fibres as indicated in Figure 15, thus
placing them at substantially equal distances apart, and finally this cylindrical

page_text: 1.
brush, as it may be termed, is flattened down in a sort of ironing machine to form
on the core the two vanes as already stated, both vanes being substantially flat, and
yet downy in appearance owing to the breaking or crushing down of those fibres
that originally stood at right-angles or approximately so to the fibres that are
spread laterally.
The machine operating on this principle produces a fabric, which when worked
into imitation ostrich feathers, plumes, or other articles has a remarkable
resemblance to natural feathers, and which apart from that use may find several
adaptations in the arts, which it is here unnecessary further to specify.
In the accompanying Drawings Figure 1 is à side elevation on a reduced scale
of the improved machine for making artificial plumes. Figure 2 is a plan or top
view on a larger scale of part of said machine; Figure 3 is a detail side view on an
enlarged scale of the traveller or twister; Figure 4, a cross section of the same, and
Figure 5, a top view of the same; Figure 6 is aside elevation of that part of the
machine which is shown in Figure 2; Figure 7 is a sectional side elevation of the
extreme end of the machine where the material is pressed or ironed'; Figure 8 is a
detailed side view on an cularged scale of the part of the machine, which contains
the knife for opening the loops; and Figure 9 is an edge or end view of that part
of the machine; Figure 10 is a sectional view of the cutting portion of the machine
showing the knife above the grooved roller in the act of cutting; Figure 11 is a
sectional side view of the spool from which the covering silk or material is taken.
This Figure should be regarded as in connection with. Figure 8;. Figure 12, is a
detail top view, partly in section, of said spool and the first receiving roller;
Figure 13 is a top or face view of the material produced on the machine;
Figure 14, a cross section thereof; and Figure 15, à cross section thereof before it
is flattened down. Similar letters of reference indicate corresponding parts, in all
the Figures.
.
1
In the Drawings the letter A represents one of the frames of the machine, which
frame carries the silk winding applying and cutting mechanism; 'B is another
frame placed at a suitable distance from the frame. A, and made to carry the
ironing or flattening down mechanism. The frame A is more fully shown in its
details of construction in Figures 2, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, and 11. It carries a tubular
shaft C, which supports a spool D that contains the-threads-or-fibres or substances
to be wound around the central core to form the feathery part of the fabric.
Through the tube C, upon which is the spool D, are passed two wires d and e, or
stiff threads, which are unwound in their passage through said tube from drums E,
and rewound upon druins F. These two wires pass substantially parallel to each
other from the drums E around suitable rollers f, and then enter the tube C,
passing through the same; thence they pass over a friction roller g, clearly slown
in Figure 8, under another friction roller h, then over a drum G, and thence over
another friction roller i, as indicated in said Figure. From the roller i they pass
to the drums F, upon which they are wound. The drum G is composed of two
discs, which are screwed upon a hub from opposite ends; so that the two
rings jj, may be adjusted closer together or further apart, and so that between
them a narrow space or groove is formed on the drum G, in which the two
wires d and e, with the material which is wound upon them are placed, as shown
in Figure 10. The distance between the two rings j, j, on the drum G, determines
also the distance apart of the wires d, e, which distance is furthermore defined by
grooves on the friction roller i, in which grooves said wires are conducted.
Through the tube C is furthermore passed between the two wires d, e, a third
wire or thread m which constitutes part of the core of the imitation feather to be
produced. This wire or thread m is unwound from a spool n, Figure 6, and passes
thence over suitable friction rollers f; f, through the tube C, thence over the roller g,
under the roller h, and over the drum G. This drum, as already stated, is com
posed of the partsj, l, j, as shown in Figure 10, and the hub is grooved circum-
ferentially between the rings j, j, as shown at O, in Figure 10, so that the thread or
wire m will be in line with and above said groove o.. From the drum G. the thread

page_text: or wire m, with its coverings passes to the traveller H, which will be hereinafter
more fully described. The wire m, if a metallic wire is used, is preferably, before
being put into this machine, spun over with very fine silk or other substance so as
not to disclose its metallic character in the feather; otherwise it might, by its
lustre, destroy the illusion and injure the value of the fabric, yet I wish it
distinctly understood that I do not limit myself to any substance from which any
part of the fabric produced on said machine is made, nor to any use to which the
fabric produced on the machine is put.
As already stated the silk or other fibre which is to constitute the feathery part
of the fabric is contained on the spool D, which embraces the tube C; to this tube
rotary motion is imparted by a belt p from a driving shaft q or in any other
suitable manner. The tube C has in front of the spool D suitable wings which
rotate with it, and are perforated to carry the threads or silk fibres spirally around
the two wires d, e, that pass through the tube C; thus it is, that as the wires d, e,
are gradually pulled through the tube C in the direction of the arrow, shown in
Figure 11, they are loosely covered with the threads from the spool 1 that are
spirally wound around them; the distance between the two wires d, e, which is
determined by the position of the rings j, j, and grooves in the roller i, as already
stated, determining in turn the diameter of the loops that are wound around thein,
and centrally within said loops is contained the core or wire m. The next part of
the operation to be performed after having formed these loops around the wire m
is to tie them thereto; for this purpose of tying I use another threads, which is
wound from a spool t (see Figure 6), and passes thence over a friction roller u
that is in front of the drum G, thence under the said drum into the groove o of the
drum and around said drum where it lies directly beneath the thread or wire m.
As the thread or wire m is afterwards twisted together with the threads by means
hereinafter stated, such twisting action serves to fasten the loops or parts of the
fibres w, w, that are obtained from the spool D to such wire or thread m. But
before the twisting operation commences it is necessary to destroy the loops of the
threads w, and to this end a knife I is used. This knife is held by a pin to part
of the frame A; the pin x is in reality, or preferably, a screw bolt for clamping the
knife in any desired position; the knife has a longitudinal slot so that it may be
adjusted lengthwise; the frame A, where the pin x passes through it, has a vertical
slot to permit vertical adjustment of the knife, and more than this, a screw y is
used to bear upon the knife so as to regulate the pressure and position of the
cutting edge. The cutting edge of the knife I is directly in line with the groove o
of the drum G, as shown in Figure 10, so that as the wire m, which is embraced by
the loops w, passes over the drum G between the rings j, j, the loops will be cut by
the knife I; but the knife is so nicely adjusted by means of two slots and by the
screw as not to touch either the thread s nor the thread m, but simply to cut
through the loops that are drawn tight around the two wires d, c. I attach great
importance to the arrangement of the knife and to the manner of adjusting. the
saine, hereinabove described, because by this arrangement I am enabled to cut the
loops before they are twisted or tied firmly to the wire m, and yet not to interfere
with said wire nor with the fastening thread s.
Immediately after escaping from the action of the knife the fabric consisting of
the parts m, s, and w begins to be twisted in that its end is fastened to a rotating
spindle a that hangs in the traveller H. The ends of the threads or wires m, s,
are first twisted together, and then hooked on to the hook-shaped end of the
spindle a² as indicated in Figure 3, and thereupon the traveller H. is caused to
move on a stretched. railway or wire J from the frame A towards and to the frame B.
The traveller H is suspended by wheels a³, a³, from the railway. J. In so travel-
ling the spindle a² is rotated by a belt 63, and being rotated twists the threads or
wires m, s, together and tightens them around the fibres or cross threads that are
produced by the cutting of the loops w, so that finally a fabric looking in cross
section like that shown in Figure 15 is the result.
The belt b derives its motion from a drum on the shaft q; it passes from said

page_text: drum, which hangs in the frame A to and over a friction roller d² that hangs on the
frame B; from dit extends over a friction roller ea that hangs on the traveller H;
thence it passes around a cone pulley f of the spindle a², thence over another cone
pulley g of another spindle 2, which also hangs in the traveller H;
thence upwards
crossing its former direction on the cones g2 and 2 over another friction roller i
which also hangs on the traveller H, thence over a friction roller which hangs on
the frame A, and down from these to and around. the drum on the shaft q. The
belt is held taut by a weight, as shown in Figure 7. Thus it is that by the con-
tinuous motion of the belt b2, the traveller H is moved towards the frame B, and
at the same time the spindles a² and h² hanging in it are also rotated in opposite
direction. The speed of these spindles, and even their relative speed, can be
regulated by putting the belt be around different parts of the cone pullies f² and g²,
and the speed of the traveller and the tightness of the belt can be regulated by
shifting the pullies or friction rollers and 2, which are hung to an adjustable
slotted plates that is fastened to the upper part of the traveller H, as indicated in
Figure 5.
The
The fabric being properly twisted during the travel of the carrier H from the
frame A to the frame B is, when H is near B, cut off near the frame A, the travel-
ler moved back to the frame A, and that end of the fabric which was next to the
frame A hooked upon the spindle 2, its other end being inserted between the two
rollers Land M of the ironing apparatus that is carried on the frame B.
spindle a now receives the end of the fabric that comes from. the drum G, and
the traveller now repeats its motion from the frame A to the frame B. In so doing
the new fabric produced is again twisted by means of the spindle a², but the
detached piece formerly produced and twisted is further twisted by means of the
spindle and is then received by and between the rollers L, M, to be flattened
as hereinafter to be stated. Thus are produced pieces of fabric of the requisite
design, in length equal to the distance between the frames A and B.-
Whenever the traveller is near the frame B the part which it had twisted is
detached at the frame A, and re-applied in manner already stated. The frame B,
_as already said; carries the rollers.L and M. .The roller L is a hollow iron roller
adapted to be heated by gas internally-applied, or by a heated iron or brick, or in
any other suitable manner. It receives rotary motion by a belt from a shaft-of-
the frame A or in any other suitable manner. The roller M is of rubber or other
elastic substance, and is not heated, and is by a suitable spring m² made to bear
upon the roller L with suitable degree of pressure.
The fabric or thread twisted or surrounded like a cylindrical brush with the
radially projecting fibres, is, as it arrives between the rollers L, M, ironed and
flattened so that the fibres project. laterally as indicated in Figures 13 and 14, and
yet at the same time it will receive a feathery or downy appearance by having
some of the fibres which originally stood up vertically or nearly so brought down
upon the flat, radial, or lateral fibres, thereby giving the entire fabric an appearance
similar to that of a very fine and delicate feather in which the inner part or
core m; 8; constitutes the quill a, while the threads w, which are left by cutting the
loops, and then flattening, as already stated, constitute the vanes b.
I desire it to be understood that instead of using a traveller a twisting apparatus
of different-construction might be applied to the ironing apparatus B, L, M, so that
a continuous operation may be effected instead of alternating in manner already.
described.
Having passed the ironing apparatus L, M, the fabric is wound upon a suitable
spool N which derives rotary motion by a belt or other means either from the shaft
of the roller L or in any other convenient manner.
Having described the nature of the said Invention, and the manner of performing
the same, I declare that what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters
Patent is,-
1st. In a machine for making imitation feathers the drum G composed of the

page_text: hub l, having groove o, and of the two rings j, j, which are screwed upon the ends
of the said hub from opposite sides, substantially as specified.
2nd. In combination with the grooved drum G the laterally and vertically
adjustable knife I and pressure screw y, substantially as and for the purpose
specified.
3rd. The traveller H combined with the pulleys e² and 2, and with the two
spindles a² and 2 for operation together with a belt b², substantially as and for
the purpose herein shown and described.
4th. The combination in one machine of the tube C, looping spool D, drum G,
having groove o, knife I, bearing roller u for the thread 8, bearing roller i for the
spreading wires d, e, traveller H, and ironing or flattening apparatus L, M, sub-
stantially as herein shown and described.
5th. In a machine for making imitation feathers or analogous articles, the
combination of the spool D with spreading wires d, e, grooved drum G, knife I,
twisting apparatus and flattening apparatus with means for separately feeding
the spreading wires d, e, substantially as and for the purpose herein shown and
described.
6th. The traveller H made within an adjustable plate 82, which carries the
rollers e² and ¹, substantially as herein shown and described.
In witness whereof I, the said Alexander Melville Clark, have hereunto set
iny hand and seal, this Twenty third day of July, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-nine.
A. M. CLARK. (L.S.)