Improvements in and relating to Embroidering Machines.
Year: 1894

page_text: Date of Application, 19th Dec., 1894
Complete Specification Left, 18th Sept., 1895-Accepted, 26th Oct., 1895
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in and relating to Embroidering Machines.
I, ARSENE CARPENTIER, of 21 Boulevard Poissonnière, Paris, in the Republic
of France, Embroiderer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as
follows:-
My invention relates to embroidering machines and comprises devices permitting
the application of the Jacquard mechanism with perforated cards to the automatic
operation of the frame carrying the fabric, and therefore dispensing with the
special attendant charged with the guiding or the operation of the pantograph
employed in the reading of the design. This device moreover enables the
production to be augmented and to be rendered. more economic.
According to my invention the Jacquard mechanism may be a so-called
Manchester Jacquard mechanism with threads or strings and two boxes of
droppers; in any case the mechanism employed is divided into two parts, one
which operates in conjunction with the odd cards and is placed to the left of the
machine being designed for upward movement of the frame and for its movements
from right to left, and the other which operates in conjunction with the even cards
and is placed to the right of the loom being designed for the downward move-
ment of the frame and for its movements from left to right. These two parts
of the Jacquard mechanism operate by means of appropriate gear wheels, shafts
and cams. By a special arrangement the frame, while being operated by its
droppers for changes in its position, is independent of them when these movements
are executed, which has the effect that with a number of droppers composed of,
1, 2, 4, 8 and 16 millimetres per square I may gradually vary the frame from
millimetre to 50 millimetres and more.
In carrying my said invention into practice I support the frame of embroidering
machines, which is designed to carry the fabric and made of varying length, by a
series of rollers which leave it all freedom of motion in the longitudinal
direction. These rollers are mounted in forks fixed to a bar suspended by any
desired number of straps, cords or bands winding respectively upon pulleys
keyed upon a shaft which is suitably supported by brackets provided for this
purpose. Counter-weights or other means tend constantly to pull back the said
frame to the upper part; these counter-weights are attached by straps, cords or
bands winding upon pulleys in the inverse direction to the before-mentioned straps
cords or bands.
Upon the shaft are secured two pulleys upon which are wound straps attached
to back rods coming from the Jacquard mechanism arranged one on the right and
the other on the left of the frame.
At each end of the extremities of the frame are guides wherein can move the
rollers belonging respectively to the front, rods coming from the before-mentioned
Jacquard mechanism. The said two, straps are wound inversely upon their
respective pulleys..
...
The frame is free to be displaced longitudinally and transversely, that is to say
horizontally and vertically under the action of the Jacquard mechanisms.
Each of these Jacquard mechanisms comprises two ordinary squares independent
of each other, placed one behind the other, or side by side and which are constantly
moved back to a stop by powerful springs two Jacquard presses operated by any

page_text: suitable means and ordinarily in use; a cylinder upon which. the perforated cards
pass; needles and hooks in any suitable number causing the droppers to operate
through the medium of the threads or strings whereby the latter are connected to
the said needles. These parts do not present any particular feature in their
construction and operation.
I provide the squares for each of the Jacquard mechanisms with parts having
the form of pincers, between the branches of which are arranged rigid rods
which at their opposite extremities, carry the front rod, a roller hereinbefore
referred to and the back rod; a cord after passing round a guide pulley is
attached to the corresponding strap, cord or band also hereinbefore mentioned.
The branches of the pincers secured to one of the squares are situated between
two rollers, one of which belongs to a part fixed. to the frame of the embroidering
machine and to which springs are likewise attached, and the other to a lever.
This lever oscillates upon a pivot and carries a roller which, under the action of
a spring, bears upon a cam secured to a shaft of the Jacquard mechanism. This
device serves as a press for the first or upper roller. The pincers of the second
square are submitted to the action of a similar device.
From this it will be seen that the Jacquard mechanisms are connected with the
frame of the embroidering machine by their first couple of squares so as to impart
to it a horizontal or longitudinal movement, and by their second couple of squares
so as to impart to it a transverse or vertical movement. The left hand mechanism
receives upon its cylinder the off cards, while the right hand mechanism receives
upon its cylinder the even cards.
Supposing with regard to the right hand side that the front square is brought
upon the stop by its spring, that the upper roller is free, and that the droppers are
raised by the needles and threads or strings. The cylinder situated on the
right-hand side takes up the second card which, by the combination of the holes
pierced therein and the needles allows the desired number of droppers to fall. The
upper roller set in movement by the aforesaid cam and lever, presses the pincers
on the right hand side, while the press of the jacquard, set in motion in the
ordinary manner, carries away the front square to the right by the number made
up by the droppers fallen, and as the rod between the said pincers is connected
with them and consequently with the front square the latter will impart to the
frame a horizontal movement to the right.
While the front square on the right-hand side works as before described, the
upper of the two rollers on the left hand side is freed and the cylinder of the
Jacquard mechanism on this side takes up the first card which by the combination
of its holes, needles and threads or strings lets the desired number of droppers
fall. From this it follows that when the right-hand part has finished its work and
when the pincers on the right-hand side are freed the left-hand part, whose
pincers are tightened at the same moment will move the frame to the left to a
definite extent.
It will thus be seen that the frame is alternately connected to the mechanism on
the right and the mechanism on the lett, for the purpose of effecting horizontal
movements to the right and to the left. If therefore with the second card on the
right-hand side I impart to the frame, in proportion to the droppers fallen, for
example a movement of 25 millimetres and with the first card on the left-hand side
no movement it is clear that if the fourth card on the right hand side makes also
& movement of 25 millimetres the frame will be displaced to the right a distance of
50 millinietres. Or if the second card makes a movement of millimetre and the
first card likewise a movement of millimetre the frame returns to its original
place, embroidering to the extent of half a millimetre. Similar or different effects
may be produced on either side according to the requirements of the design,
and the total movement of the frame is limited only by the length of the
pincers.
The rear squares on the right-hand and left-hand side operate alternately under
the same conditions: but have for their obiect to produce respectively the upward

page_text: and downward movements of the frame so that this frame is connected to the left-
hand jacquard for the upward movements and to the right-hand jacquard for the
downward niovements.
Accordingly the frame may be displaced to the left, to the right, downwards or
upwards, alternately or successively, according to the nature of the design to be
embroidered upon the fabric stretched on the said frame and reproduced by suitable
perforations in the Jacquard cards.
It is understood that the dimensions and forms of the various parts hereinbefore
mentioned may be modified without departing from the principle or scope of my
invention. The materials employed may also be varied at will.
Dated this 19th day of December 1894.
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
45 Southampton Buildings, London, W.C., Agents for the Applicant...
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in and relating to Embroidering Machines.
I, ARSENE CARPentier, of 21 Boulevard Poissonnière, Paris, in the Republic
of France, Embroiderer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention, and in
what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement:-
My invention relates to embroidering machines and comprises devices permitting
the application of the Jacquard mechanism with perforated cards to the automatic
operation of the frame carrying the fabric, and therefore dispensing with the special
attendant charged with the guiding or the operation of the pantograph employed in
the reading of the design. This device moreover enables the production to be
augmented and to be rendered more economic.
According to my invention the Jacquard mechanism may be a so-called
Manchester Jacquard mechanism with. threads or strings and two boxes of
droppers; in any case the mechanism. employed is divided into two parts, one
which operates in conjunction with the odd cards and is placed to the left of the
machine being designed for upward movement of the frame and for its movements
from right to left, and the other which operates in conjunction with the even cards
and is placed to the right of the looin being designed for the downward movement
of the frame and for its movements from left to right. These two parts of the
Jacquard mechanism operate by means of appropriate gear wheels, shafts and cams.
By a special arrangement the frame, while being operated by its droppers for changes
in its position, is independent of them when these movements are exécuted, which has
the effect that with a number of droppers composed of, 1, 2, 4, 8 and 16 millimetres
per square 1 may gradually displace the position of the frame from millimetré to
50 millimetres and more.
I
In order that my invention may be clearly understood I have represented the same
in the accompanying drawings in which
Figure 1 is a longitudinal elevation of the frame of an embroidering machine with
the aforesaid apparatus at each extremity.
Figure 2 is a plan of the same.
Figure 3 represents separately a perforated card.
.
Figures 4, 5 and 6 show a modification of the arrangement represented in
Figures 1 and 2.
In carrying my said invention into practice I support the frame A or
embroidering machines, which is designed to carry the fabric and made of varying
length, by a series of rollers a which leave it all freedom of motion in the longitudina
direction. These rollers are mounted in forks a¹ fixed to a bar B suspended by any
desired number of straps, cords or hands b winding respectively upon pullies c keyed
upon a shaft C which is suitably supported by brackets provided for this purpose.

page_text: Counterweights d or other means tend constantly to pull back the said frame A. to
the upper part; these counterweights are attached by straps, cords or bands
winding upon pulleys in the inverse direction to the before-mentioned straps
.cords or bands b.
Upon the shaft C are secured two pulleys C¹ and C' upon which are wound
straps and attached to back rods ¹¹ coming from the Jacquard mechanism
arranged one on the right and the other on the left of the frame.
At each of the extremities of the frame A are guides A¹ A' wherein can move
the rollers og belonging respectively to the front rods ¹ coming from the before-
mentioned Jacquard mechanism. The said two straps 6' 6' are wound inversely upon.
their respective pulleys and c³.
As shown the frame A. is free to be displaced longitudinally and transversely,
that is to say horizontally and vertically under the action of the Jacquard
mechanisms.
Each of these Jacquard mechanisms comprises two ordinary squares D D¹
independent of each other, placed one behind the other or side by side and
which are constantly moved back to a stop E by powerful springs R ; two
Jacquard presses e operated by any suitable means and ordinarily in use;
a roller F upon which the perforated cards pass; needles and hooks G in any
suitable number causing the droppers H to operate through the medium of
the threads or strings whereby the latter are connected to the said needles.
These parts do not present any particular feature in their construction and
operation.
I provide the squares D and D¹ for each of the Jacquard mechanisms with
parts and having the form of pincers, between the branches of which are
arranged rigid rods h and ' which at their opposite extremities, carry the front
rod, a roller g hereinbefore referred to and the back rod; a cord i after passing
round a guide pulley k is attached to the corresponding strap, cord or band 6' or 6*
also hereinbefore mentioned.
The branches of the pincers jsecured to one of the squares D are situated between
two rollers and m one of which belongs to a part n fixed to the frame of the
embroidering machine and to which springs R are likewise attached, and the other
to a lever o.
This lever o oscillates upon a pivot p and carries a roller q which, under the
action of a spring t bears upon a cam r secured to a shafts of the Jacquard
mechanism. This device serves as a press for the first or upper roller m. The
pincers of the second square D¹ are submitted to the action of a similar device,
the corresponding parts being designated by the same letters and bear the index
numeral 1.
From this it will be seen that the Jacquard mechanisms are connected with the
frame A of the embroidering machine by their first couple of squares DD so as to
impart to it a horizontal or longitudinal movement, and by their second couple of
squares D D so as to impart to it a transverse or vertical movement. The left
hand mechanism receives upon its cylinder F the odd cards, while the right-hand
mechanism receives upon its cylinder F the even cards.
Supposing with regard to the right hand side that the front square D is brought
upon the stop E by its spring R, that the upper roller m is free, and that the
droppers Hare raised by the needles and threads or strings. The cylinder F
situated on the right-hand side takes up the second card which, by the combination
of the holes pierced therein and the needles allows the desired number of droppers H
to fall. The upper roller m, set in movement by the aforesaid cam r and lever o,
presses the pincers on the right-hand side, while the press of the jacquard, set
in motion in the ordinary manner, carries away. the front square D to the right by
the number made up by the droppers fallen, and as the rod h between the said pincers
is connected with them and consequently with the front square D the latter. will
impart to the frame a horizontal movement to the right.
While the front square D on the right-hand side works as before described, the

page_text: upper of the two rollers m on the left, hand, side is freed, and the cylinder F of the
Jacquard mechanism on this side takes up the first card which by the combination, of
its holes, needles and threads or strings lets the desired number of droppers. fall..
From this it follows that when the right-hand, part has finished, its work and when
the pincers on the right hand side are freed the left-hand part, whose pincers.j
are tightened. at, the same moment,. will, move the frame A. to the left to a definite
extent.
It will thus be seen that the frame A is alternately connected, to the mechanism
on, the right and. the mechanism on the left for the purpose of effecting horizontal,
movements to the right and to the left.. If, therefore, with the second, card on the..
right-hand side I impart to the frame A, ip proportion, to the, droppers, fallen, for.
example & movement of 25 millimetres and, with the first, card, on the left-hand side
no movement it is clear that if the fourth card, on the right hand side, makes also a
movement of 25 millimetres the frame will be displaced at the. right, a distance of
50 millimetres. Or if the second card, makes a movement; of millimetre and the
first card likewise a movement of millimetre, the frame, returns, to its original
place, embroidering to the extent of half a millimetre. Similar or different effects
may be produced on either side according to the requirements of the design,
and the total movement of the frame is limited only by the length of the
pincers.
:'
The rear squares D' on the right and left-hand, sides, operate, alternately under
the same conditions, but have for their object to produce, respectively, the upward
and downward movements of the frame A so. that. this frame is: connected to the
left-hand jacquard for the upward movements and to the right-hand jacquard for
the downward movements.
Accordingly the frame A may be displaced to the left, to the right, downwards
or upwards, alternately or successively, according to the nature of the design to be
embroidered upon the fabric stretched on the said frame and reproduced by suitable
perforations in the Jacquard cards a. specimen of which is represented. in Figure 3.
of the drawing.
In Figures 4, 5 and 6 of the drawings I have represented a modification of the
apparatus hereinbefore described, for the purpose. of realizing a great saving in
the construction and requiring less. space for placing the machine..
.
In this modification. the Jacquard mechanism. on, the right hand. sidė is.
completely dispensed with.
The jacquard on the left hand side is exactly the same for the upward move-
ments and the movements from the right to the left hand side of the frame. The
squares, pincers and round rods of the jacquard on the right hand side are placed.
by the side of those of the jacquard on the left hand side, from which results, that
this jacquard possesses four squares D1, D2, D', D'; four boxes or droppers H¹,
H, H, H, four pincers and four rigid rods. h, 2, h, h. However
there are no more needles G to the jacquard for the droppers, each. needle.
operating two droppers of the same value in the two boxes of squares. effecting
either the horizontal movements or the vertical movements..
:
The rollera m², m³, m³, m² are mounted each upon, a square or press 4.oscillating
at 4* and provided with a roller 3, rolling, upon a cam 2 keyed upon, the shaft 1.
of the jacquard.
The lever or press.
is subjected to the action of a spring, 6. whose tension
causes the branches of each of the corresponding pincers, j, j to be
energetically pressed.
:
Each press is controlled by a balancing hook 7 operated in turn by the jacquard
by means of a needle, hook, and wire or string, which for example has the effect
that the same movement being caused by the cards, needles and droppers at the
two squares for the horizontal movements, this movement will be transformed into
a movement from right to left if the press for-the-movement from left to right is
prevented from acting; and the movement from left to right will be effected if the .
press for the movement from right to left is prevented from acting.

page_text: The same is the case for the vertical movements.
In Figures 4, 5 and 6 the letters indexed 1 refer to the parts for the upward
movement; those indexed 2 refer to the downward movement; those indexed 3
refer to the movement from right to left, and those indexed 4 refer to the move-
ment from left to right.
The transmission of the horizontal movements from right to left and vertical
upward movements having remained the same I describe here only the differences
which exist for the other movements. The horizontal movement from left to right
is obtained by the rod * which terminates in a rack gearing with a toothed
wheel 8 and returning the movement by another rigid rod 9 terminating likewise
in a rack gearing with the same toothed wheel.
The vertical downward movement is the same except that it takes place on the
left of the loom by the side of the inverse vertical movement.
It is understood that the dimensions and forms of the various parts hereinbefore
mentioned may be modified without departing from the principle or scope of my
invention. The materials employed may also be varied at will.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
First. In embroidering machines, for automatically operating the frame carrying
the fabric the new and special application of the Jacquard mechanism subdivided
or not into two similar parts for the operation of the said frame in all directions,
as hereinbefore specified.
Second. In embroidering machines, with a view to this special application of
the Jacquard mechanism, the combination of the frame A carrying the fabric,
guides A and A' at the extremities of the said frame, a suspension bar B and a
rotary shaft C, the whole arranged in the described manner, for the purpose of
leaving the frame free from any movement, as well in the longitudinal or horizontal
direction as in the transverse or vertical direction, as hereinbefore specified with
reference to the figures of the drawings.
Third. In embroidering machines, with a view to this special application of the
Jacquard mechanism, the connection of the frame carrying the fabric, arranged
according to the second claim or in any other similar manner, with the said
Jacquard mechanism subdivided into two parts, by means of pincers; j¹ which are
closed or opened at the desired time under the action of presses operated by a cam
or in any other manner, for the purpose of causing the movement of this frame to
the left or to the right, upwards or downwards, as hereinbefore described with
reference to Figures 1, 2 and 3 of the drawings.
Fourth. In embroidering machines the general arrangement and the details of
the apparatus represented in Figures 1, 2 and 3 and having for its object to
automatically displace in all directions and to definite and variable extents, the
frame carrying the fabric, under the action of a Jacquard mechanism substantially
as hereinbefore described.
Fifth. In embroidering machines the general arrangement and details of the
apparatus represented in Figures 4, 5 and 6 having for its object to automatically
displace, in all directions and to definite and variable extents, the frame carrying
the fabric, under the action of a Jacquard mechanism, substantially as hereinbefore
described
Dated this 10th day of September 1895.
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
45 Southampton Buildings, London, W.C., Agents for the Applicant.