IMPROVE- MENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES OR OTHER COVERINGS FOR THE FEET, AND IN THE MACHINERY CONNECTED THEREWITH
Year: 1855

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Julian Bernard, of Club Chambers, Regent Street,
in the County of Middlesex, Gentleman, for the Invention of "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES OR OTHER COVERINGS FOR
THE FEET, AND IN THE MACHINERY CONNECTED THEREWITH."
Sealed the 14th September 1855, and dated the 14th March 1855.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Julian Bernard at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
14th March 1855.
I, JULIAN BERNARD, of Club Chambers, Regent Street, in the County of
Middlesex, Gentleman, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES OR OTHER COVERINGS
FOR THE FEET, AND IN THE MACHINERY CONNECTED THEREWITH," to be as follows:-
This Invention relates to the cutting or shaping or cutting out of the heel
portions of boots and shoes by the aid of partially self-acting machinery; the
apparatus, which is automatic or self-acting in its essential details, is entirely
contained or held upon an independant table or stand of a height suitable for
the operator, and upon this table or framing is a short vertical cutter spindle

page_text: arranged to rotate in stationary bearings. The cutter spindle projects at its
lower end beneath the table level, and it there carries a band pulley, by which
it is actuated through the medium of an endless band connected with any
suitable prime mover.
un
The upper end of the cutter spindle is formed with an adjustable nut collar
for the reception of the cutters. These cutters are conveniently made of a
metal centre piece or boss, notched or grooved out upon its periphery to receive
the inner dovetailed edges of a set of spiral cutters. The cutting contour of
these cutters-is-formed-to-a-common-curve,-being-somewhat-wider-in diameter
on the lower side when in cutting position. This contour corresponds to the
convexity intended to be given to the boot or shoe heel.
.?
Beneath the upper collar bearing of the cutter Spindle is a loose collar disc
truly turned, with a slight bevil upon its periphery, the wider side being down-
wards. This disc rests upon a collar set upon a screw piece of rapid or coarse
pitch on the cutter spindle beneath, & this supporting collar has attached to it
a short lever. handle working by its loose end, over an inclined segmental lolding
rack piece. Witli..this arrangement.. the operator has merely to turn round
the adjusting, lever to set the disc which it governs higher or lower upon the
spindle, and thus by the: bevil.upon the disc regulate the lateral set of the blank
holder in reference to the line of the cutter spindle; close by the cutter, spindle,
and upon the same frame, but held quite independantly thereon, is the apparatus
for holding the blanks out of which the, heels are to be shaped. This holder
consists of a species of frame set upon an adjustable centre, carried by a
horizontal traverse slide. Its vertical spindle has entered upon its lower part
an accurately shaped metal pattern of the intended heel, the edge of which is
bevilled off to correspond to the bevilled edge of the disc on the cutter spindle,
a weight..or spring. being employed for the, purpose of keeping the metal
pattern pressed firmly up against the disc. Above this pattern piece, and in a
direct vertical line therewith, is a screw or other holder for clamping down the
piece of wood or other material forming the blank out of which the heel is to
be shaped. When so 'arranged, the attendant sets the rotatory cutter in rápid
motion, and brings up the blank holder, so as to adjust the blank into cut. He
then, by means of a worm and wheel or other action, gradually turns round the
blank holder and its metal pattern upon its dead centre, and as the pattern
bears constantly against the disc or the cutter spindle, it follows that the
blank is accurately guided into greater or less depth of cut until the heel is
completed.
"
"Heels of various materials may be shaped in this machine, & in some
nstances it is proposed that the boot, shoe, or clog itself may be placed in the

page_text: apparatus for the shaping up of the heel therein. By an extension of this
routine of working, entire soles with heels complete may be cut out with the
aid of metallic patterns corresponding to the shape of sole and heel.
Another portion of my Invention consists of a novel mode of fastening or
connecting the "tips" or metal pieces with which the heels, and in some
instances, the toes of heavy boots and shoes are sometimes furnished, and
consists in pressing such "tips" or metal pieces on to the heel or toe, so as to
retain it in position during the operation of fastening it by means of suitable
nails; instead, however, of pressing the "tip" on to or against the part to
which it is to be united, it may be held firmly over or near such part during
the preliminary process of fastening. This can be performed by placing the
boot or shoe bottom upwards on any convenient stand and suitable table, or with
two studs or pins projecting from it, which take into two corresponding holes
in the last, and the "tip" placed in proper position over the part of the bottom
of the boot or shoe to which it is to be attached, when a metal plate with holes
or perforations in it, corresponding to those in the "tip," is placed over it, and
made to press upon it, thus holding the "tip" firmly against the part of the boot
or shoe. In this pressed condition it is united or secured. The iron plate
may be pulled or forced against the "tip "by means of two levers connected
to it by links, which levers may be secured loose to pins or centres in any con-
venient part of the table or stand on which the shoe is placed, and such levers
may be held, during the process of pressing, in toothed racks conveniently
placed or connected to the common table or stand; the nails or fastenings
may now be put into the holes and secured to the shoe by hand or otherwise,
without the danger of the "tip" shifting until connected.