Improvements in the Manufacture of Uppers for Boots and Shoes.
Year: 1896

page_text: Date of Application, 28th May, 1896
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Uppers for Boots and Shoes.
I ALEXANDER MICHAEL BOLLINGER of 436 William Street, Williamsport,
County of Lycoming, Pennsylvania, U.S.A., Shoemaker, do hereby declare the
nature of this invention to be as follows:-
In this invention the whole of the upper of a boot or shoe is cut out in one
piece. The pattern or blank is oblong and approximately elliptical in shape, and
comprises the vamp at one end the top or front at the opposite end, the counter
stiffener at one side and intermediate of the vamp and top, and the back at the
opposite side and located between said vamp and top. There is a space extending
inwardly from the upper edge of the back and is intended to receive an elastic
gusset. There is another space above the vamp so as to admit of the top or front
being stitched to the edge portion of the vamp. A slit extends inward from the
rear edge of the back for a short distance and is designed to receive the rear end
of the vamp adjacent to the counter stiffener, so that the latter may come within
the back when shaping the upper. When the blank or pattern is properly folded
to form the upper, the outer edge of the side of the top or front forms with the
adjacent edge of the back a space corresponding to the gusset space.
Dated this 28th day of May 1896.
THOMAS R. SHILLITO,
89 Chancery Lane, London, W.C., Agent for the Applicant.
I, ALEXANDER MICHAEL BOLLINGER of 436 William Street, Williamsport,
County of Lycoming, Pennsylvania, U.S.A., Shoemaker, do hereby declare the
nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This invention relates to the production of the uppers of boots and shoes in one
piece from a single blank or pattern.
In the accompanying drawing which illustrates the invention,
Fig. 1 is a perspective view of an upper or gaiter formed from a blank cut in
accordance with the invention.
Fig. 2 shews the pattern or blank from which the upper is fashioned.
Fig. 3 a detail view shewing the blank partially folded.
Fig. 4 a detail view of the upper after the parts have been properly positioned
and stitched prior to the application of the elastic gussets.
Fig. 5 is a view similar to Fig. 1 shewing a laced shoe formed from a blank cut
on the same general lines as the pattern shewn in Fig. 2.
Fig. 6 is a detail view of the pattern or blank from which the shoe shewn in
Fig. 5 is formed.
Fig. 7 is a view shewing the upper prior to soleing and heeling.

page_text: The pattern or blank is oblong and approximately elliptical in shape and com-
prises the vamp 1 at one end, the top or front 2 at the opposite end, the counter
stiffener 3 at one side and intermediate of the vamp and top 2, and the back 4 at
the opposite side and located between the said vamp and top. A space 5 extends
inward from the upper edge of the back 4 and is intended to receive an elastic
gusset 6. A space 7 of approximately an L form is provided and comes above the
vamp, and its edges conform to the bottom edge and sides of the top or front 2 so
as to admit of the latter being stitched to the edge portion of the vamp bordering
upon the said space 7. The counter stiffener 3, the top or front 2, and the back 4
are separated as indicated by the full lines, and the top 2 is crimped along the
dotted line, and the vamp counter stiffener and back folded along the dotted lines.
A slit 8 extends inward from the rear edge of the back 4 for a short distance and
is designed to receive the rear end of the vamp adjacent to the counter stiffener 3
so that the latter may come within the back 4 when shaping the upper prior to the
stitching thereof. The slit 8 is essential inasmuch as it also provides for the over-
lapping of the top edge of the vamp upon the top or front 2 whereby a neat and
graceful finish is attained. When the blank or pattern is properly folded to form
the upper, the outer edge or side of the top or front 2 forms with the adjacent
edge of the back 4 a space corresponding to the opening 5 and which in the com-
pleted shoe is supplied with a gusset 6.
After the blank or pattern is folded and stitched as shewn in Fig. 4 it is lined
provided with elastic gussets, soied, heeled, and otherwise finished to provide a
marketable shoe substantially as illustrated in Fig. 1.
The spaces 5 and 7 are formed upon opposite sides of a line passing centrally
through the back 4 and at right angles to the length of the blank, forming a pro-
jection 9 whose edges 10 incline slightly in opposite directions and form the rear
sides of the gusset spaces.
The blank from which the laced shoe is formed has the same general outline as
the pattern shewn in Fig. 2 and differs therefrom in omitting the spaces 5 and 7
and that portion exterior to the dotted lines at the upper right hand corner.
This pattern is oblong and approximately oval in shape and comprises a vamp 11
counter stiffener 12 and quarter 13, the latter having a slit 14 at its outer end
corresponding to the slit 8 and for a like purpose. The edges 15 of the quarter 13
provide the front portions of the upper which receive the lacing eyes or
studs.
The laced shoe presents the same general outline as the upper or gaiter and the
slit 14 permits the upper edge of the vamp to overlap the lower edge portion of the
front.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. A shoe formed from a single blank or pattern of oblong shape and com-
prising a vamp at one end, a counter stiffener at one side, and a quarter portion at
the opposite side formed with an inwardly extending slit at its free end to admit
of the upper edge of the vamp overlapping the lower edge of the front, substan-
tially as described and shewn.
2. A shoe formed from a single blank or pattern of oblong shape and com-
prising a vamp at one end a top or front at the opposite end, and a counter
stiffener and back intermediate of the ends and at the sides of the blank and
having an approximately shaped space, and a gusset space upon opposite sides
of a line passing centrally through the back and at right angles to the length of
the blank, and having a slit extending inwardly from the free end of the back to
receive the rear end of the vamp adjacent to the counter stiffener, substantially
as described and shewn.
3. A shoe or gaiter constructed substantially as described and formed from a
single blank or pattern of the form shewn and comprising a vamp and top or

page_text: front at opposite ends, and a counter stiffener and back intermediate of the ends
and having a space 5 and an approximately L space 7 upon opposite sides of a
middle line of the back, and having a slit 8 extending inwardly from the rear or
free end of the back to receive that end of the vamp adjacent to the counter
stiffener, whereby the latter will come within the back, and the upper edge of the
vamp will overlap the lower or outer edge of the top or front, and elastic gussets
applied to the spaces upon opposite sides of the shoe and the latter finished in the
ordinary way, substantially as described and shewn.
Dated this 25th day of September 1896.
THOMAS R. SHILLITO,
89 Chancery Lane, London, W.C., Agent for the Applicant.