Improvements in Embroidering and Edging Machines.
Year: 1896

page_text: Date of Application, 8th May, 1896
Complete Specification Left, 5th Feb., 1897-Accepted, 17th Apr., 1897
Improvements in Embroidering and Edging Machines.
We, EMILE CORNELY, and ROBERT CORNELY, both of 87 Faubourg St. Denis,
Paris, in the French Republic, Manufacturers, do hereby declare the nature of
this invention to be as follows:-
The object of the present invention is the production of an embroidering or
edging seam. The formation of this seam and the mechanism which produces it,
are represented on a large scale in Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 of the accompanying
drawings.
The mechanism which produces the stitch is composed―
1. Of two needle-hooks A and B (Figs. 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5) working vertically in
opposite directions, one against the other, the needle A being worked from above-
and the needle B from below-the cloth plate;
2. Of two double nipples C and D in which the two needle-hooks A and B
operate. The nipple C works above, and the nipple D below the table. In each
of these two double nipples one of the two needle-holes E and H is opened side-
wise, forming thus a groove, and the under needle B enters into groove E of the
upper nipple C, and the upper needle A. enters into groove H of the under
nipple D;
3. Of two thread carriers F and G, the first being above, the latter underneath
the table, and the thread carrier F winds its thread I around the upper nipple C,.
whilst the thread carrier G winds its thread K around the under nipple D.
The motions of the two thread carriers around each of their nipples can be either
an oscillating motion or a continuous rotating motion.
The operations of the above described mechanism for the formation of the stitch
are as follow:-
In Figures 1 and 4 the two nipples C and D press against the material L, and
needle-hook B has reached its highest position, whilst needle-hook A has reached
its lowest position; needle-hook B in its downward motion, and needle-hook A
in its upward motion take hold of the threads I and K respectively by means of
their hooks, which project out from grooves E and H, these threads being wound
around nipples C and D by means of thread carriers F and G. Then hook B
draws the loop which it has caught into the needle hole of nipple D, whilst at the
same time the hook A draws in the same manner its loop into the needle hole of
nipple C, as represented in Fig. 2. At this moment nipple C effectuates its upward
motion whilst nipple D descends; these motions cause the loops 2, 3, 4, and 5 of
the threads I and K to slip off from the nipples around which they were wound,
and form thus the interlacing of threads represented in Fig. 3. At this moment
the feed takes place, after which the two needle-hooks A and B begin their
motions against each other, each lays its chain-stitch on its respective upper and
under side of the material L, pierces the material and comes then with its respective
nipple and thread carrier back to the positions represented at Figs. 1 and 4, for
the formation of the following stitch, so as to produce the embroidering or edging
seam represented on a large scale in Fig. 6. In this figure the threads represented
in unbroken lines are above the material, and the threads represented in dotted
lines are below the material and are designated by their respective letters I and K;
they form each a chain-stitch I and K above and below the material, the transverse
threads of which are interlaced in the manner represented in Fig. 6.

page_text: Figure 4 represents a perspective view of the stitch producing parts which are
represented in elevation in Fig..1.
'Figure 5 represents a cross-section through the upper nipple C.
Figure 7 represents an elevation of the whole inachine, in which both thread
carriers F and G have a continuously rotating motion around their double
nipples C and D. The upper thread carrier F is operated in the manner described
in Letters Patent No. 1705 of January 30th 1891, and its thread passes from
spool M through suitable guides into the thread carrier F. Main-shaft N of the
machine is provided with a gear wheel O which operates wheel P, shaft Q,
wheels R, S and shaft T; the latter shaft, T, operates needle bar U and nipple D
in the well-known manner.
The under thread carrier G receives its rotating motion from wheel V through
cog-wheels a, b, shaft k and wheels m, n, o, p and q. This latter wheel q is
provided with a sleeve on which are secured the thread carrier G, and the spool
bolder s, which carries the spool W from which the thread is supplied to the thread
carrier G.
The whole of the mechanism for the production of the stitch is operated by
the crank-handle X in conformity with the direction of the feed, either for a
complete rotation of the handle or only for a limited rotation, as described in
former patents.
In the case of a limited motion of the handle for the production of the scallops
of edging seams, the automatic mechanism described and claimed in Letters Patent
No. 13339 of July 10th 1894, may be employed for the purpose of varying the
distance between the needles in order to produce edging scallops which are widest
at the centre of the arcs. In said patent both needles are placed above the cloth
plate in the present, machine the two needles being placed one above and one
underneath the table, it is necessary in order to obtain the same result to provide
the upper as well as the under nipple tube with a cam similar to that described
in Letters Patent No. 13339 of July 10th, 1894, in order to shift the needles
sidewise, and to govern their distance from each other by the motion of the
crank-handle.
Figure 8 represents an elevation of the machine in which both thread carriers F
and G perform an oscillating motion around their nipples C and D.
The oscillating motion of the upper thread carrier F is obtained by means of a
grooved cam Y, which is secured upon main-shaft N. This grooved cam Y operates
lever Z, sleeve r, pitman t, crank , spindle u, and pinions 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, and 12
in the manner described in Letters Patent No. 14358 of August 25th, 1891, which
need not be described here again.
The oscillating motion of the under thread carrier G is obtained by means of an
eccentric which is secured upon main-shaft N. This eccentric operates pitman 13,
lever 14, and rod 15 upon which is secured the screw gear 16, which thus receives
a to-and-fro motion. This screw gear 16 operates a similar screw gear 17 (like
that employed in the well-known universal-feed embroidery machines) and the
wheels 18, 19, 20 which thus ail receive an oscillating motion which is communicated
to sleeve 21 upon which the thread carrier G is secured.
The two thread carriers F and G are operated by the crank-handle X of the
machine in the well-known manner.
It will be evident that the rotating and cseillating motion of the thread carriers F
and G can be combined in such a manner in the same machine that the upper
thread carrier F may have a rotating motion, and the under thread carrier Gan
oscillating motion, or vice versa.
The thread of the upper thread carrier F is shewn in Fig. 8 in dotted lines;
it comes from spool 22, passes guide 23, from there it goes through the hollow
spindle of cog-wheel 12 from which it comes out through opening 24, then it
passes through guide 25 and tension spring 26, and at last through thread
carrier F.
The thread of the under thread carrier G comes from a spool placed below the

page_text: table, passes through central tube 27 from which it comes out through opening v,
and goes thence to the carrier G.
The under nipple D may be operated in a different manner to upper nipple C,
that is, the upward motion of the under nipple D is produced by the action of an
eccentric, and its downward motion is obtained by a spring; this arrangement
avoids the use of springs in connection with the working towards each other of
nipples C and D, the strength of which is liable to vary and consequently
irregularities in the stitch are occasionally produced.
Dated this Eighth day of May 1896.
Improvements in Embroidering and Edging Machines.
We, EMILE CORNELY, and ROBERT CORNELY, both of 87 Faubourg St. Denis,
Paris, in the French Republic Manufacturers, do hereby declare the nature of
this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
The object of the present invention is the production of an embroidering or
edging seam. The formation of this seam and the mechanism which produces it,
are represented on a large scale in Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 of the accompanying
drawings.
The mechanism which produces the stitch is composed
1. Of two needle-hooks A and B (Figs. 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5) working vertically in
opposite directions, one against the other, the needle A being worked from above-
and the needle B from below, the cloth plate;
2. Of two double nipples C and D in which the two needle-hooks A and B
operate. The nipple C works above, and the nipple D below the table. In each
of these two double nipples one of the two needle-holes E and H is opened side-
wise, forming thus a groove, and the under needle B enters into groove E of
the upper nipple C, and the upper needle A enters into groove H. of the under
nipple D;
3. Of two thread carriers F and G, the first being above, the latter beneath the
table, and the thread carrier F winds its thread I around the upper nipple C,
whilst the thread carrier G winds its thread K around the under nipple D.
The motions of the two thread carriers around each of their nipples can be
either an oscillating motion or a continuous rotating motion.
The operations of the above described mechanism for the formation of the stitch
are as follow:
In Figures 1 and 4 the two nipples C and D press against the material Land
needle hook B has reached its highest position, whilst needle hook A has reached
its lowest position; needle hook B in its downward motion and needle hook A. in
its upward motion take hold of the threads I and K. respectively by means of their
hooks which project out from grooves E and H, these threads being wound around
nipples C and D by means of thread carriers F and G. Then hook B draws the
loop which it has caught into the needle hole of nipple D, whilst at the same time
the hook A draws in the same manner its loop into the needle hole of nipple Cas
represented in Figure 2.
At this moment nipple C effectuates its upward motion whilst nipple D descends ;

page_text: these motions cause the loops 2, 3, 4 and 5 of the threads I and K to slip off from
the nipples around which they were wound and form thus the interlacing of
threads represented in Fig. 3. At this moment the feed takes place, after which
the two needle hooks A and B begin their motions against each other, each lays its
chain stitch on its respective upper and under side of the material L, pierces the
material and comes then with its respective nipple and thread carrier back to the
position represented at Figures 1 and 4, for the formation of the following
stitch so as to produce the embroidering or edging seam represented on a large
scale on Figure 6. In this figure the threads represented in full lines are above
the material and the threads represented in dotted lines are below the material and
are designated by their respective letters I and K; they form each a chain stitch I
and K above and below the material, the transverse threads of which are interlaced
in the manner represented in Figure 6.
Figure 4 represents a perspective view of the stitch parts which are represented
in elevation in Fig. 1.
Figure 5 represents a cross section through the upper nipple C.
Figure 7 represents an elevation of the whole machine in which both thread
carriers F and G have a continuously rotating motion around their double
nipples C and D. The upper thread carrier F is operated in the manner described
in the Specification of Letters Patent No. 1705 of January 30, 1891, and its thread
passes from spool M through suitable guides into the thread carrier F. Main-
shaft N of the machine is provided with a gear-wheel O which operates wheel P,
shaft Q, wheels R, S and shaft T; the latter shaft T operates needle bar U and
nipple D in the well-known manner.
The under thread carrier G receives its rotating motion from wheel V through
cog-wheels a, b, shaft c, wheels d and f, shaft g, wheels h, i, shaft k and wheels m, n,
o, p and q. This latter wheel q is provided with a sleeve on which are secured the
thread carrier G and the spool holders which carries the spool W from which the
thread is supplied to the thread carrier G.
The whole of the mechanism for the production of the stitch is operated by the
crank handle X in conformity with the direction of the feed, either for a complete
rotation of the handle or only for a limited rotation as described in former
specifications.
In the case of a limited motion of the handle for the production of the scallops of
edging seams, the automatic mechanism described and claimed in the Specification
of Letters Patent No. 13339 of July 10th 1894, may be employed for the purpose
of varying the distance between the needles in order to produce edging scallops
which are widest at the centre of the arcs.
In said specification both needles were placed above the cloth plate; in the
present machine the two neodles being placed one above and the other underneath
the table, it is necessary in order to obtain the same result to provide the upper as
well as the under nippie tube each with a cam similar to that described in the
Specification of Letters Patent No. 13339 of July 10th 1894 in order to shift the
needles sidewise and to govern their distance from each other by the motion of
the crank handle.
Figure 8 represents an elevation of the machine in which both thread carriers F
and & perform an oscillating motion around their nipples C and D.
The osciliating motion of the upper thread carrier F is obtained by means of a
grooved cam Y which is secured upon main-shaft N. This grooved cam Y operates
lever Z, pitman t, crank t, spindle u and pinions 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 and 12 in the
manner described in Letters Patent No. 14358 of August 25th 1891 which need
not be described here again.
The oscillating motion of the under thread carrier G is obtained by means of an
eccentric which is secured upon main-shalt N. This main-shaft operates pitman 13,
lever 14 and rod 15 upon which is secured the screw gear 16 which thus receives a
to and fro motion. This screw gear operates a similar screw gear 17 (like that
employed in the well known universal foed embroidery machines) and the

page_text: wheels 18, 19, 20 which thus all receive an oscillating motion which is communicated
to sleeve 21 upon which the thread carrier G is secured.
The two thread carriers F and G are operated by the crank handle X of the
machine in the well known manner.
It will be evident that the rotating and oscillating motion of the thread carriers F
and G can be combined in such a manner in the same machine that the upper
thread carrier F may have a rotating motion and the under thread carrier G'an
oscillating motion or vice versa.
The thread of the upper thread carrier F is shewn in Figure 8 in dotted lines;
it comes from spool 22, passes through guide 23, from thence it goes through the
inner passage of cog-wheel 12 from which it comes out through opening 24 then
it passes through guide 25 and tension spring 26 and at last through thread
carrier F.
The thread of the under thread carrier G comes from a spool placed below the
table, passes through central tube 27 from which it comes through opening e ant
goes thence to the thread carrier G.
When in the machine represented in Figure 7, we remove the upper needle A
and the under thread carrier G, there will remain only the under needle B and the
upper thread carrier F, and the machine will then produce the same stitch as the
machine forming the object of Letters Patent No. 21210 of November 8th 1895.
Of course for this purpose the double nipple Chas to be replaced by a single
needle nipple 55 (Fig. 12) and if a cord or beads are to be sewn on, said nipple 55
is to be provided with a passage for the cord, said passage having a shield 56 which
holds the cord in its place and prevents it from being wound around the nipple
through the action of the thread of the revolving thread carrier F. By means of
said nipple two cords or other materials 57 and 58 (Fig. 13) can also be sewn on in
one and the same operation by the single needle B; but it happens sometimes that
the embroidering which is thus produced is not very regular in the sharp turnings
owing to the outer material projecting over the inner material.
In order to avoid this irregularity we have combined with the single needle B
a second needle B₁ (Fig. 14) and thus a perfect regular stitch in all directions is
obtained. Of course when two materials 57 and 58 are to be used, it is necessary
to employ a double nipple 59 (Fig. 17) provided with two passages for both
materials; we also provide the central tube of the machine with a grooved bar 60
shewn in Fig. 15 and in cross-section in Fig. 16; this bar is provided with two
grooves 61 and 62 through which both materials pass on their way from the upper
spoel to the nipple.
Figure 9 represents a modification of the spool and tension devices; the thread
comes from spool 50 and is taken through and around pins 51 aud 52 from where it
passes through guide 23 in order to reach the thread carrier F as usual. The two
tension pins 51 and 52 are secured upon a bracket 53 which is arranged to turn
upon a pivot 54; it is evident that the more we turn said bracket with its pins 51
and 52, the more the thread will be wound around said pins and the stronger the
tension will be. The great advantage of this tension is its smoothness and
regularity.
When in the machine represented in Fig. 7 we remove the upper needle and add
a second needle to the under needle, we obtain an embroidering stitch as represented
in Figs. 10 and 11 wherein Fig. 10 shews the upper side of said seam and Fig. 11
the under side. And if vice versa we remove the under needle and add a second
needle to the upper needle, we obtain an embroidering seam as represented in
Figs. 10 and 11, but wherein Fig. 11 is the upper side and Fig. 10 the under side of
the stitch.
The grocves E and H in the nipples C and D (Figs. 1 to 5) are shewn and
described merely in order to better explain the operation of the stitch-producing
parts, but it is not necessary that such grooves should be formed on the respective
nipples, as the needles will work equally well if the material of the nipple is cut.
away beyond the groove so that the entire needle will project out of the nipple.

page_text: As the upper nipple C is operated in its downward motion by the action of a
spring and in its upward motion by an eccentric on the main-shaft N, it is necessary
to have under nipple D operated in the reverse manner, that is-that its upward
motion should be operated by the action of a cam on the lower shaft T and its
downward motion by the action of a spring, so that the two springs will not act
against each other.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we
claim is:
1. In a machine for producing embroidering or edging seams on both sides of the
material, the combination of the stitch producing parts consisting
1st
Of two needle-hooks A and B working one towards the other, one above,
the other below the material;
2nd Of two double nipples C and D working one towards the other, one
above, the other below the material, each having one of its needle holes
opened sidewise;
3rd Of two thread carriers F and G, one working above, the other below the
material and turning in a continuously rotating or oscillating motion, each
around its respective nipple, in such a way that the needle hook working
from below upwards will seize in its downward motion the thread of the
upper thread carrier, and that the upper needle working from above
downwards will in its upward motion seize the thread of the lower thread
carrier whereby an interlacing of the threads is effected which produces two
edging seams, one above and the other below the cloth, composed each of a
chain stitch and transverse threads, substantially as herein described and
illustrated in Figure 6 of accompanying drawings.
2. In a machine for producing embroidering or edging seams on both sides of
the material, the combination of two needles placed above, or two needles placed
below the material which work in conjunction with two double nipples and two
thread carriers in order to produce the stitches as described and illustrated in
Figures 10 and 11 of accompanying drawings.
Dated this 5th day of February 1897.
Dated this 5th day of February 1897.
For the Applicants,
GEDGE & FEENY,
60 Queen Victoria Street, London, E.C., Chartered Patent Agents.