Trousers and such like Articles.
Year: 1886

page_text: Trousers and such like Articles.
I WILLIAM WALLACE CRISP of number 1 Beverley Villas, Marle Hill Road,
Cheltenham in the County of Gloucester, Tailor do hereby declare the nature of
this invention to be as follows:-
Trousers and such like articles made according to my invention may be formed
either with or without the outside seams.
The inside curved seams are placed in such positions as to ensure the wearer
perfect freedom from chafing thereby securing greater durability and allowing
more "spring" in the fork than can be obtained with the old system of cutting.
I also obtain a saving both in material and labour when each half of the trousers
is made in a single piece.
My improved method or system of cutting or making trousers and other like
articles applies to the inside seams thereof which are made to follow a curved line
from the knee or a little below the same which line inclines to the back of the
thigh and passes between the seat and the "fork" forming a somewhat sharp
curve from its junction with the fork, whereby a better fit is obtained to the seat
than when the ordinary fork seams are used.
The outline of the material to form the back of the trousers is of the ordinary
form from the waist downwards to near the fork, but at a short distance before it
reaches the latter it follows a sharp hollow curve to the fork at which point
it meets another sharp hollow curve thereby forming a pointed projection, from the
latter curve it joins the seam line of the leg which may be of any desired shape
below to the bottom of the leg.
The material to form the front of the trousers is of the ordinary outline down
to near the fork where it follows a somewhat sharp hollow curve to a sharp reverse
curve which merges into the curved line of the leg.
In full length trousers the curved line of the inner seam passes downwards to
the foot but is removed slightly nearer to the heel portion of the trouser leg than
under the old system,

page_text: In cutting or making trousers according to my invention they may if desired be
made in only two parts, one part and one seam only for each leg, in which case the
outside seam is dispensed with.
If side seams are required four pieces of material are necessary as under the old
system, but the outline of the parts to form the back and inside seams would be
as heretofore described.
W. W. CRISP.
By Harris & Mills,
23, Southampton Buildings,
Agents.
Trousers and such-like Articles.
I WILLIAM WALLACE CRISP of Number 1 Beverley Villas, Marle Hill Road,
Cheltenham in the County of Gloucester, Tailor do hereby declare the nature of
this invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
Trousers and such-like articles made according to my invention may be formed
either with or without the outside seams.
The inside curved seams are placed in such positions as to ensure the wearer
perfect freedom from chafing, thereby securing greater durability and allowing
more "spring" in the fork than can be obtained with the old system of cutting.
I also obtain a saving both in material and labour when each half of the trousers
is made in a single piece.
My invention is illustrated in the accompanying drawings of which Figure 1
represents a back view of a pair of trousers and Figure 2 an outline of a piece of
cloth, cut out according to my invention, to form one half or leg of a pair of
trousers.
My improved method or system of cutting or making trousers and other like
articles applies to the inside seams a thereof which as shown at Figure 1 are made
to follow a curved line from the knee or a little below the same which line inclines
to the back of the thigh and passes between the seat and the "fork" b forming
a somewhat sharp curve a¹ from its junction with the "fork" whereby a better fit
is obtained to the seat than when the ordinary fork seams are used.
The outline of the material to form the back of the trousers, as shown at
Figure 2, is of the ordinary form, from the waist downwards, to near the fork G,

page_text: but at a short distance before it reaches the latter, it follows a sharp hollow curve g
to the "fork" at which point it meets another sharp hollow curve g¹ thereby
forming a pointed projection at the fork G, from the sharp hollow curve g¹ it joins
the seam line of the leg, which is somewhat curved down to the knee line k or
thereabouts from which the outline may be of any desired shape below to the
bottom M of the leg.
The material to form the front of the trousers is of the ordinary outline down to
near the "fork" F, where it follows a somewhat sharp hollow curve f to a sharp
reverse curve f¹ which merges into the curved line H, J, forming the outline of the
leg down to and a little below the knee below which the outline may be of any
desired shape to the bottom L, of the leg.
In full length trousers the curved line of the inner seam a passes downwards to
the foot but is as shown at Figure 1 removed slightly nearer to the heel portion of
the trouser leg than in the old system.
In cutting or making trousers according to my invention, they may if desired, be
made in only two parts, one part shaped as described with respect to Figure 2 and
one seam a only for each leg, in which case the ordinary outside seam is dispensed
with.
knee line "
In Figure 2, A, B, is the "balance line," C, D, the "front line" D, E, the
"back line" F, G, "fork line" H, I, the "spring line" J, K, the
and L, M, the "bottom line."
In making up a pair of trousers cut out in the manner described with respect to
Figure 2, the point F is brought to G: the point H to I, the point J, to K, and the
point L to M, and when the two edges are closed together, one leg of a pair of
trousers will be formed.
If side seams are required, four pieces of material are necessary as under the old
system, but the outline of the parts to form the back seam c and inside seams a
would be as heretofore described but the outlines of the material to form the
outside seams instead of running in the direction of the straight line indicated by
the balance line A, B, would be made of any desired or ordinary outline.
The dotted lines in Figure 2 which are not lettered and not otherwise referred
to are mere working lines and will be readily understood by a competent tailor.
I would here remark that the outline curves in Figure will be varied to suit
different forms and proportions of figure.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is
The improved principle or system of cutting and making trousers and such-like
articles, using either one or two pieces for each leg, substantially as herein shown
and described.