IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR SEWING OR UNITING AND ORNAMENTING FABRICS
Year: 1857

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to John Henry Johnson, of 47, Lincoln's Inn Fields, in
the County of Middlesex, and of 166, Buchanan Street, in the City
of Glasgow, North Britain, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN
MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR SEWING OR UNITING AND ORNAMENTING
FABRICS." A communication from Pierre Chevolot, of Paris, in the
Empire of France, and Jean Francois Ligney, of the same Place,
Merchants.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said John Henry Johnson at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
9th January 1857.
T
I, JOHN HENRY JOHNSON, of 47, Lincoln's Inn Fields, in the County of
Middlesex, and of 166, Buchanan Street, in the City of Glasgow, North
Britain, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS
IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR SEWING OR UNITING AND ORNAMENTING FABRICS,"
a communication from Pierre Chevolot, of Paris, in the Empire of France,
and Jean Francois Ligney, of the same Place, Merchant, to be as follows:-
This Invention relates to a peculiar construction, arrangement, and com-
A

page_text: bination of mechanism for sewing and embroidering or ornamenting fabrics,
and also to certain modifications and combinations of mechanism for enabling
designs of various kinds to be embroidered or sewn on to fabrics.
In the sewing and embroidering machine, which forms the first part of my
present Invention, the following operations are effected :—
First, a reciprocating motion is imparted to two needle carriages, which are
caused to approach to and recede from each other in order to pass the needles
which are carried by them, and which are of the ordinary description used in
hand-sewing, through the fabric, the motion or traverse of the carriages
gradually decreasing as the threads are used up in the operation of cm-
broidering or sewing.
Second, the passage of the needles through the fabric.
Third, the reception of the needles in holding pincers arranged on the
needle carriages above referred to.
Fourth, the drawing of the entire needleful of thread through the fabric.
Fifth, the retention or holding of the loop of thread behind the fabric
during its passage therethrough, in order to prevent it from becoming
entangled.
Sixth, the turning or reversing of the needies previous to passing them
back again through the fabric.
Seventh, the moving of the frame, which carries the fabric in any required
direction, according to the particular pattern desired to be produced.
The whole of the movements of the machine are derived from a main
driving shaft fitted with a pair of ordinary fast and loose driving pullies, and
carrying also a fly wheel.
The reciprocating motion of the carriages is derived from screw spindles,
which work in nuts fitted to the carriages. These screw spindles are driven
by suitable gearing from the main shaft. A reversing clutch and gear is
employed for reversing the motion of the screws, & producing the reciproca-
ting movements of the carriages.
On a motion shaft in the machine is fitted a small arm, against which
strikes a bent sliding top piece fixed under the front carriage of the machine.
This stop is drawn in or pushed out by means of a screw and handle,
according to the distance of traverse to be given to the carriages, such distance
varying with the varying length of the needlefuls of thread.
On the shaft last referred to are fitted at proper distances several handles,
for the purpose of moving this portion of the machine by hand when found
requisite. An arrangement of stopping mechanism is used for the
purpose of

page_text: instantly stopping the movements of the machine by a lever handle within
convenient reach of the attendant.
The inner limits of the traverse of the carriages are adjusted by moveable
stops connected with the vibrating reversing rod.
The needles after being pushed through the fabric are reversed by reason
of their holders being caused to make a half revolution horizontally. This is
effected by a cord and pulley in connection with each holder.
The needles are held by suitable pincers or nippers arranged on the car-
riages, and so disposed as to seize each one a needle on its being pushed
through the fabric, and draw its thread through by the return or back stroke
of the second carriage. On the internal face of each carriage is fitted a long
rod, which carries a number of bent arms, serving to stretch or give the final
pull to the threads. The frame which carries the fabric is connected with
a wooden frame, and is placed of course between the two needle carriages;
the whole is supported by three long rollers carried by bent levers. These
bent levers are fixed upon an axes working in suitable bearings fixed to the
main standards of the machine. The two horizontal arms of each of these
levers carry at their extremities a wrought-iron cylinder or roller, upon which
rests the apparatus for holding the fabric frame. The vertical arms of these
thrce levers are forked and are jointed to a rod, which unites the levers, and
allows them to oscillate freely.
The right-hand extremity of this rod is connected to a rod belonging to a
wrought-iron frame described further on. These two rods are united by
means of a copper nut, one part of which is tapped with a right and the
other with a left-hand thread, so that the rods can be made to recede from or
approach towards each other.
To the back portion of the wooden frame before referred to is bolted laterally
a piece of cast iron. The extremity of a rod is introduced into an opening in
this piece, and carries a second wrought-iron framework, similar to the first, to
which it is parallel.
A lever is fixed by one of its ends to a strong trunnion or pivot which is
fixed to the right-hand portion of the main framing. The other extremity is
itself provided with a trunnion, and forms a knee or inclined plane. This
lever passes into a socket fixed underneath one of the carriages. When the
two carriages recede from one another, and when they have each moved about
two inches, the friction rollers beneath them encounter the inclined plane of
the lever before mentioned, and causes it to make an upward motion.
To the trunnion of this lever are attached and retained by a pin two flat
pieces of wrought iron. The opposite end of one of these two pieces is pro-

page_text: vided with a hole in which the trunnion of one of the cylinders or rollers
before referred to passes.
When the lever makes its motion upwards, and
when consequently the same inovement is imparted to the three large bell-
crank levers, it also elevates the whole of the apparatus arranged upon the
wooden frame. The large bell-crank levers in this movement carry towards
the extreme right one of the small wrought-iron frames, and thus entirely
open an orifice by which certain narrow blades come out, which are of
various lengths, according to the pattern, as explained further on, and which
are thus left free to place themselves between a fixed fulcrum and the interior
of the small wrought-iron frame.
The second piece of wrought iron attached to the trunnion of the lever
before referred to is also provided with a hole at its other end. This picco
actuates a small bell-crank lever mounted upon the same axes as one of the
large bell-crank levers before referred to. To the vertical branch of this small
bell-crank lever (which is forked) is united by a pin joint a flat bar or rod of
wrought iron. Its other end is attached by a bolt to one of the wooden
frames or bars. When the lever makes its upward movement it raises, as we
have seen, all the frame apparatus in a horizontal direction, that is to say,
from left to right. The second small frame of wrought iron follows this
movement, and a second orifice, through which the narrow blades can act, is
opened in the same manner as the first. A small bell-crank lever, placed on
the middle of the axis of the large bell-crank lever, is provided on its hori-
zontal arm with a counterweight. Its vertical arm is fixed by means of a pin
to the end of a small piece of wrought iron, the other end of which is also
united by a pin to the two bars or frames of wood. This counterweight con-
stantly acts upon the fabric-holding apparatus in a direction contrary to that
of the lever, that is, from right to left. This movement is produced when the
two carriages approach one another, and when they are not more than about
two inches distant from the centre. At this instant the narrow blade, which
is placed horizontally and underneath the wrought-iron frame, is actuated by
the mechanism described further on, and engaging the end of this frame stops
it in a very exact and precise manner at a point exactly determined by the
length of the narrow blade and the horizontal motion of the entire apparatus
arranged upon the fabric holding apparatus. The vertical movement which
takes place simultaneously with this one is produced by the gravity of the
apparatus arranged on the fabric frame, and which rests on the cylinders or
friction rollers of the large bell-crank levers, which move their rod in a
horizontal direction, and in consequence the small wrought-iron frame which
is attached to it. A second narrow blade comes forward together with the

page_text: first, and stops the vertical motion of the apparatus in a similarly precise and
effective manner.
A bent lever, forming an inclined plane, is jointed at one of its ends to a
trunnion, to its other end is jointed a small vertical rod. The lower end of
this rod is engaged in a forked horizontal part of a bell-crank lever, to the
second arm of which are also jointed two rods which impart motion to small
bell-crank levers. These last themselves actuate two rods or slides; which
both give a lateral motion to the narrow blades, which are arranged in
numerical order in two vertical sheet-iron boxes, and also serve to draw them
under the small wrought-iron frames already described.
The bent lever last referred to passes directly on to the back shaft of the
machine. When the carriages begin to leave the middle and recede from one
another, and when they have travelled about three inches, the knee or inclined
plane of another bent lever comes in contact with the shaft, the lever moves
upwards at that extremity united to a rod, and it consequently imparts motion
to the rods or slides before referred to, which each push a narrow blade under-
neath the small frames, in order to replace those which have just been in
action. These narrow blades pushed laterally by the rods or slides press upon
the narrow blades which have just been in action; and place them on a small
table, described further on.
To the bent lever before referred to is attached a second knee piece, which
comes in contact with the under side of the back shaft mentioned above; as
soon as the two carriages have finished their movement towards the middle of
the machine the lever again descends, and the rods or slides make the motion
already described. When the two carriages again move towards the middle
of the machine, and when they are not more than about two inches from the
centre, the large grooved supports, on which are bolted, the principal portions of
the carriages, come into contact with the upper extremity of two levers, arranged
one upon another in the form of a cross, and jointed to the same common
axis, fixed to the main framing of the machine. To the lower extremity of
these two levers are jointed two small horizontal arms. The other ends of
these levers are engaged in the forks of two cranks, fixed on two small shafts,
which carry the small tables for receiving the narrow blades after they have
been pushed by the rods before referred to:
When the carriages have completed their course towards the middle of
the machine, the tables thus actuated are raised vertically, together with
the narrow blade which has been pushed upwards by those which the rods.
have drawn on to the frame. In proportion as the narrow blades that have

page_text: been used are thus raised they range themselves in proper order in a sheet-
iron box.
To the small shafts which carry the tables are adapted two other arms or
crank handles, to the extremity of which are attached two small chains, which
pass round two grooved pullies arranged upon an axis. At the end of these
mall chains are two counterweights. This arrangement serves to restore the
small tables on the small shafts to their horizontal position when the two
carriages recede from one another.
When the two carriages have receded from one another the whole length
of the needleful of thread, and when the stretchers have acted on this same
thread in order to give it the tension necessary for forming the stitch, a bent
tappet has come into contact with a small projection on a shaft of the gearing
mechanism. This movement has caused a collar to come into gear with one
of the reversing pinions, and in consequence to impart a movement in a con-
trary direction to the carriages, that is to say, in a direction towards the centre
of the machine.
Two small belts which pass round two small cylinders are fixed at one end
to a small plate, and by the other to two small bands which extend the whole
length of the machine. These two bands actuate as many small levers as
there are needle carriers. These small levers are surmounted each with a
small steel wire or slightly bent finger. In consequence of the motion im-
parted to this apparatus by the knee piece, the small fingers or steel springs
come into a position resting on the thread or the cotton to be used in the
embroidery, keeping the loop which the thread forms on the back of the stuff
extended in exactly the same manner as it would be done by the finger of a
workwoman, thus preventing it from tangling or getting into knots. A
counterweight serves to restore the small levers to their position again.
The fabric frames are each composed of two rods of wrought iron, perfectly
cylindrical, a small portion at the extremities of each being made square, in
order that they may be turned at will by means of a key. These rods are
polished, and they are pressed upon at their extremities by two plates of
wrought iron, hollowed out in a semicircular form, and united by two screws.
The narrow blades for composing the pattern are of wrought iron, flat, and
about seven-eighths of an inch wide by one-sixteenth thick. At one of their
ends they are pierced by a round hole, about five-sixteenths of an inch diameter,
& adjusted perfectly square. At one of their ends they are each numbered, and
this number indicates their length according to a guage, explained further on.
This
guage is simply composed of a long plate, on which are fixed two bars of

page_text: metal, which instead of being parallel, incline to one another at a slight angle.
The distance between them, which varies from one end to the other, serves
to measure the narrow blades, which are there introduced at an exact right
angle. Divisions which are marked along the bars show the length of the
narrow blades which are there introduced.
The needle carriers are each composed of a support, fixed to the carriage
of the machine already described. To the top of this support, which is forked,
is jointed freely a lever, which carries at one of its extremities a cylindrical
cap, which terminates in a point at its extremity, and is provided with a small
circular groove.
This rod or spindle is introduced into a hole cut in the end
of the lever, where it is retained by a pin, which passes through the lever and
into the small circular groove in the cap. The bottom of the hole in the lever
is flat, so that the cap turns in it as it would in a socket.
The small needle carrying cylinder carries at its lower extremity a pivot. It
has also at about two-thirds of its height a groove, at the bottom of which the
cylinder is the same thickness as the pivot; and lower down a second groove to
receive a cord, which is in communication with the reservoir already described.
At the end of the cylinder a circular groove is cut, to receive a nipping or
holding cap. An angular groove is also cut in the upper end of the cylinder
to the same depth as the circular groove. This groove divides the head of the
cylinder into two exactly equal parts, and its object is to receive the needles.
To the cap is fixed a small pin, which plays freely in a groove in a copper
guide soldered to the upper part of the needle carrying cylinder.
The support receives the cylinder in two small forked bearings, one of which
embraces the groove, while the other receives the pivot. The bottom of this
last bearing forms a sort of socket, in which rests the end of the pivot.
A small fixed stop. penetrates into a slot in the cylinder. This cylinder, in
making its half revolution either way, comes in contact with the stop.
The object of the machine forming the second portion of this Invention is,
to arrange two sets of figures which shall point out by their numbers the
narrow blades by which the pattern is made to act on the machine. Two
modifications of this apparatus may be employed.
In the first arrangement a large table or plate of cast iron is used, perfectly
flat, on which is arranged a second plate firmly fixed to the first around the
whole of its semicircumference. Between these two plates a space is left, in
which is inserted the card on which the pattern to be transferred is clearly
drawn.
Two other plates, in the form of a segment of a circle, are fixed close to the
two rounded parts of the second mentioned plate. Each of these plates is divided

page_text: Each
by ten circular lines, and also by straight lines if decimal numbers are required.
These lines are drawn as they are in geometrical decimal scales; thus, a
radial line leaving the centre of the circle at the pivot, and passing through
the internal extremity of one straight line, would not pass through the external
extremity of the same line, but through that of the neighbouring one.
point of intersection of these lines with one of the circular lines represents a
number, which number indicates the narrow blade which should be ranged
in order on that which precedes it. This plate is provided with a perfectly
square groove or slot; in which a small steel plate is adjusted, having a similar
though smaller groove or slot in it. There are two arins, each provided with
a socket bored conically, and adjusted on two small pivots fixed to the plate
before referred to. These pivots are conical to correspond with the sockets on
the arms. The shortest portions of these arms, the pivots being considered as
the division, are slotted, and in this slot there slides a small piece of copper
pierced with a hole, through which a vertical pin passes, which is then fixed
to the steel plate adjusted in its slot. When this plate is exactly at the
bottom of the rectangular slot the two arms which pass to the numbered
segments point to 1, which is the number of the shortest narrow blade.
The part of the pattern which should be embroidered, and for which the
required narrow blades have to be found, is placed in the square over which
the interior angle of the steel plate is capable of travelling, while the two arms
are capable of travelling over the whole length of the numbered segments from
1 to the highest number indicating the longest narrow blade; the numbers
pointed to by one of the arms are the numbers of the narrow blades, which
should be placed in a box for that purpose to the left of the machine.
narrow blades regulate the vertical movements of the frame carrying the
fabric.
These
The numbers indicated by the second one of the arms are those of the
narrow blades which regulate the horizontal movements, and should be placed
in the box to the right hand.
In making use of this machine, the person who conducts it should act exactly
as if he were really embroidering; thus, in beginning to arrange a pattern,
be begins by recording the first narrow blade, the numerical order of which
on the pattern is 1, an uneven number. This number is not that which is
marked on the narrow blade, but simply the number which is first written
down in the copy of the pattern. With regard to this number, he writes
the numbers of the narrow blades as indicated by one of the arms on the
dial. In proportion as the transferring operation continues, he writes the
numbers below the others in the order of their value, and so on.

page_text: The number 1 then represents the action of an embroideress, who passes
her needle up vertically from beneath the embroidery frame:.
The number 2 and all the even numbers represent the contrary or
downward action.
When the pattern has been pricked, a steel pin is used with a fine point
and a head. When the prick is made the pin is maintained in its hole by
pressing the finger on the head; with the other hand the steel plate is drawn
along the side of the slot or groove which is facing the set of numbers
required; those, for example, for the vertical narrow blades, and the number
indicated by the intersection of the pointer or arm with the nearest of the
circular lines is written on the pattern, reference being had to the numerical
order; the plate is then made to slide along the other side of the cut or slot,
and a similar process is gone through on another pattern, with the numbers
relating to the horizontal movements indicated by the second pointer. A
pattern is thus composed by obtaining two series of narrow blades arranged
in the numerical order indicated.
According to another and simpler arrangement, the two first-mentioned
plates of the previously described arrangement remain almost unaltered. The
plates or segments on which the numbers are inscribed are also similar to
those already referred to.
The small steel plate of the first machine is dispensed with, though the
plate on which it worked is still provided with a rectangular cut.
The two pointers are also each provided with the small copper socket,
similar to those of the first machine. At their extremities they each carry a
pivot. At the same distance on the other side of the socket are established
two small grooves, in each of which there is a small pivot. A small and
slightly elongated opening of the same width as the pivot is cut in the
pointers, and receives these pivots.
Two pieces are jointed at about their middle to two pivots fixed to the bars.
To the extremities of these two pieces are fixed two pins. Their other ends
are jointed in the same way as the pointers, by pins in slots.
On the extremities of the pointers, as well as on those of the pieces before
referred to, and on their pivots, are arranged two slotted pieces. The
extremities of these slotted pieces carry a small tube, which is held in
position at the upper end by two branches fixed to the slotted pieces by
screws.
In the interior of this tube, which is perfectly bored, there is placed a small
rod, which slides accurately but easily in it. The upper extremity of this rod

page_text: is furnished with a small head of copper which forms a sort of collar, under
which a spiral spring is arranged, which tends constantly to raise the rod.
The lower extremity is provided with an extremely fine point, which serves to
prick the pattern by drawing it successively to those points which are required
to be reproduced.
The advantage which this arrangement has over the first-described one is
that it enables the operator to obtain both the required numbers at the same
time, and with the required exactitude.
It is obvious that the embroidery machine herein-before described may be
used also for sewing or uniting two or more fabrics together, as well as for
simply embroidering or ornamenting such fabrics.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said John Henry Johnson in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
9th July 1857.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JOHN
HENRY JOHNSON, of 47, Lincoln's Inn Fields, in the County of Middlesex,
& of 166, Buchanan Street, in the City of Glasgow, North Britain, Gent"
send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Ninth day of January, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-seven, in the twentieth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the
said John Henry Johnson, Her special license that I, the said John Henry
Johnson, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the
said John Henry Johnson, my executors, administrators, or assigns, should
at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times
thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make,
use, exercise, and. vend, within, the United Kingdom of Great Britain and
Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR SEWING OR UNITING AND ORNAMENTING
FABRICS," a communication from Pierre Chevolot, of Paris, in the Empire of
France, and Jean Francois Ligney, of the same Place, Merchants, upon the
condition (amongst others) that I, the said John Henry Johnson, by an
instrument in writing under my hand and seal, should particularly describe
and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same

page_text: was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent
Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the
said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said John Henry Johnson, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to
be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement, reference being had to the accompanying Drawings, and
to the letters and figures marked thereon, that is to say :-
The said Invention relates to a peculiar construction, arrangement, and
combination of mechanism for embroidering or ornamenting fabrics by stitches,
which mechanism may also be employed in the operation of sewing or uniting
fabrics together, and also to certain combinations of mechanism for preparing
designs of various kinds to be embroidered on fabrics.
Ju the machine which forms the first part of my present Invention, the
following operations are effected :-—
First, a reciprocating motion is imparted to two needle carriages, which are
caused to approach to and recede from each other in order to pass the needles
which are carried by them, and which are of the ordinary description used
in hand-sewing, through the fabric, the motion or traverse of the carriages
gradually decreasing as the threads are used up in the operation of embroidering
or sewing.
Second, the passage of the needles through the fabric.
Third, the reception of the needles in holding pincers, arranged on the
carriages above referred to.
Fourth, the drawing of the entire needleful of thread through the fabric.
Fifth, the retention or holding of the slack of the thread behind the fabric
during its passage therethrough, in order to prevent it becoming entangled.
Sixth, the turning or reversing of the needles previous to passing them back
again through the fabric.
Seventh, the moving of the frame, which carries the fabric in any required
direction, according to the particular pattern desired to be produced.
The whole of the movements of the machine are derived from a main
driving shaft, fitted with a pair of ordinary fast and loose driving pullies, and
carrying also a fly wheel. The reciprocating motion of the carriages is derived
from screw spindles, which work in nuts fitted to the carriages. These screw
spindles are driven by suitable gearing from the main shaft.
A reversing clutch and gear is employed for reversing the motion of the
screws producing the reciprocating movements of the carriages. On a motion
shaft in the machine is fitted a small arm, against which strikes a bent sliding

page_text: stop piece, fixed under the front carriage of the machine. This stop is drawn
in or pushed out by means of a screw and handle, according to the distance
of traverse to be given to the carriages, such distance diminishing with the de-
creasing, length of the needlefulls of thread.
An arrangement of stopping mechanism is used for the purpose of instantly
stopping the movements of the machine by a lever handle within convenient
reach of the attendant.
The inner limits of the traverse of the carriages are adjusted by moveable
stops connected with a vibrating reversing rod.
The needles, after being pushed through the fabric, are reversed by reason of
their holders being caused to make a half revolution horizontally; this is
effected by a cord and pulley in connection with each holder.
The needles are held by suitable pincers or nippers arranged on the carriages,
and so disposed as to seize each one a needle on its being pushed through the
fabric, and draw its thread through by the return or back stroke of the second
carriage..
On the internal face of each carriage is fitted a long rod, which carries a
number of bent arms; serving to stretch or give the final pull to the threads:
The frame which carries the fabric is connected with two wooden supporting
beams; and is placed of course between the two needle carriages, the whole
being supported on rollers carried by bent levers. These bent levers are fixed
upon axes working in suitable bearings attached to the main standards of the
machine.
The two horizontal arms of each of these levers carry at their extremities a
wrought-iron cylinder or roller, upon which rests the apparatus for holding the
fabric frame.
The vertical arms of these three levers are forked and are jointed to a rod,
which unites the levers and allows them to oscillate freely.
And in order that the said Invention may be fully understood, I shall now
proceed more particularly to describe the same, and for that purpose I shall
refer to the several Figures on the Sheets of Drawings hereto annexed.
Figure 1, on Shect 1 of the Drawings, represents an external side elevation
of the embroidering machine; Figure 2 is an elevation of the driving end of
the machine; Figure 3 is a view of the opposite end of the same.
Figure 1, on Sheet 2, is a plan of the machine. In the principal side cleva-
tion and plan I have only shewn one half of the machine, as the other half is
of a similar construction.
The frame of the machine is composed of three standards or supports A,
having each a V groove cut in its upper edge, and united by four large wrought-

page_text: iron tie bars B, which are diagonally disposed, and are fitted at their ends with
nuts c, by which they are fixed to the standards or supports A.
To the first of these grooved standards, namely, the one to the right of the
machine, in Figure 1, Sheet 1, are fitted four other supports D (Figure 2), on
which a large portion of the driving mechanism is arranged.
On the three grooved standards or supports A slide, with a reciprocating
motion, two large needle carriages E, on which are fitted the needle holders,
herein-after described. "These two carriages are furnislied at their extremities
and centres with nuts a, working upon the screws (Figure 3); Fis the main
driving shaft, on which are fixed a fly wheel (not represented in the Drawing)
and the ordinary fast and loose driving pullies G, G, actuated by a driving
belt.
On this shaft F are fixed two bevil pinions H, the bosses of which arc
furnished with clutch teeth; these wheels gear with the large bevil wheel I, the
shaft of which communicates the reciprocating motion to the needle carriages E.
The shaft J of this wheel I carries a small bevil wheel or pinion K, gearing
with a corresponding pinion on the extremity of the screw b, which is capable
of moving the needle carriages by the nuts a, already referred to. This screw
is provided with a triple screw thread, half of which is a right and the other a
left-hand thread, so that in its rotatory motion it will cause the carriages cither
to approach or recede from one another.
Two other screws, similar to the one described, are arranged, the one in the
middle and the other at the other extremity of the carriages. These two
last-mentioned screws are also actuated by the shaft J of the large bevil
wheel I, on the extremity of which is fixed a small spur wheel L, driving two
other wheels of the same size, one of which acts as a carrier wheel, being
simply interposed between the first and the third, which latter is mounted on
the extremity of a large shaft J', fixed in the machine.
The transmission of motion to the two other screws from this shaft J¹ is
effected by means of bevil wheels M and spur wheels N (Figure 3, Sheet 1),
of the same sizes as those already described.
A sliding clutch o is placed between the two bosses of the pinions H, H, on
the main driving shaft. This clutch turns with the shaft & communicates
motion alternately to one or other of the pinions, according as it is necessary
for the carriages to move in one direction or the other. The clutch is provided
with two steel teeth, which are of corresponding form to those on the bosses of
the pinions H, and gear alternately with them.
P (Figure 2, Sheet 1) is a rod for actuating the clutch o, upon which rod
is fixed an arm Q, projecting into the groove in the clutch. This rod is moved

page_text: by the lever R, upon which is fixed the weight S. This lever in its turn is
mounted on the extremity of a shaft T, which passes along the entire length
of the machine.
On the shaft T is fixed a small arm U, against which presses a bent and
slotted tappet V, fixed under the needle carriage in front of the machine. This
tappet is pushed in or drawn out by means of a screw and winch handle X,
according to the distance which it is necessary for the carriages to recede from
or approach to each other, which distance varies with the length of the threads.
'On this large shaft T are fixed, at various distances, several handles, by
which this portion of the machine may be moved by hand when the peculiarities
of the work may require it.
Behind the machine and parallel to the shaft T is another shaft Y, actuated
from the first shaft T by means of lever arms, united by a connecting rod
(Figure 3, Sheet 1). This arrangement has been adopted in order that the
attendant in charge of the machine may have the power of directing its move-
ments in whatever part of it he may be standing.
A lever A¹, placed within reach of the workman's hand, passes through and
works freely in a hole in a flat vertical bar B', pointed at its upper extremity,
and introduced into a hole in the sliding reversing rod P. This arrangement
is intended to furnish means for instantaneously stopping the movement of
the carriages.
As it is necessary for the carriages to arrive at their destination simultaneously
and at a determined distance from one another, a strong forked bracket B' is
secured to the reversing bar P; another arm in the form of a bent lever C³,
turning on a centre near the middle, is jointed to the reversing bar P.
These two pieces B and C, the inner ends of which alternately approach
to and recede from one another by the reciprocating motion of the bar P, come
into collision with two screw heads or tappets C, fixed to the right-hand
extremity of the needle carriages, so as to limit their motion.
On the main shaft are fixed two spur pinions D¹ (Figure 2), the object of
which is to move the needle actuating mechanism. One of these pinions
gears directly with one of the two wheels e, loosely fixed upon a small
shaft, at the extremity of which are two small cranks d. The other
pinion gears likewise with the other of these two wheels, but by the
intermediation of two other small pinions E³ fixed upon a small additional
shaft. On the external faces of these wheels, which touch one another,
are fixed two ratchet teeth; on the shaft of these wheels are two clutches
E', which are caused alternately to gear with one or other of the wheels.
These two clutches are grooved internally, and slide upon keys fixed to the

page_text: shaft. They are actuated by a fork F', which receives motion from a weighted
lever f. This lever is mounted upon a small shaft g, on which is also fixed, in
a direction parallel to the weighted lever, an arm G', in the form of a grooved
crank handle. This arm is traversed by a pin h, which is fixed therein by
a nut.
Two jointed tappets II', fitted to the extremities of two shafts A" on the
needle carriages E, strike alternately the pin of the small tappet G', and move
the weighted lever f either to the right or to the left. At each movement of
this lever, the lower end of which is engaged in the fork F of the clutches E',
one of the clutches comes into gear with the tooth on one of the wheels e,
which in this case imparts half a revolution to the shaft which carries the
cranks d. At each half revolution that this shaft makes one of the cranks
is turned down and the other is turned up. Each of the cranks carries at
its extremity a small antifriction pulley, engaged in a slot i of a vertical bar I',
having a bend or incline made in it. When the crank has made its half
revolution the back part of it acts upon the fork and throws the clutch
out of gear; this shaft in consequence is stopped, and the two wheels e
again become loose. The apparatus remains in this condition until another
reciprocating motion of the carriage has taken place and the effect is again
produced, though in this time in the opposite direction.
A bar K³, placed between the ribs of the carriages, and which extends along
their entire length, carries at each of its extremities two arms L', L. These
two arms have sufficient space between them to admit the bent bars I'.
When the bent bars I move upwards, the rods K' of the carriages make a
horizontal movement, corresponding in extent to the amount of incline on the
vertical bars I'. The object of this is to impart motion to a series of bell-
crank levers M', one of each of their ends being provided with an oval hole,
in which the pins fixed to the bar K¹ play. These small bell-crank levers
(one of which is represented on Figure 1, Sheet 1) have at their other
extremities a pin, serving to act upon the end of a link N', the other end of
which is fixed by means of a screw to a second bar O¹, which also extends
along the whole length of the carriages. The object of this bar O' is to receive
the needle pushers herein-after described; it makes a forward or backward
motion, according to the motion of the vertical bent bar I'.
A third bar P, placed between the two others, is destined to move the
cylinders of the needle carriers. This bar is actuated by the crank and
friction rollers Q' (to the extreme left in Figure 1, Sheet 1), mounted upon
the axis of a pinion R, which is itself driven by a small spur wheel S', of
twice the diameter of the pinion. On the shaft of this wheel is fixed a

page_text: ratchet wheel of four teeth T. The whole of this mechanism is fixed above
the carriages and at about the middle of their length.
Two levers U¹ are made to press constantly against the ratchets by the
balance weights I'; these levers, fixed on a pivot which is attached to the frame,
are furnished with a pin V¹, against which each one of the teeth of the ratchet
comes in contact when the carriage is in motion, that is to say, when they
approach each other.
With regard to the other effects produced by the motion of the carriages,
the ratchet T imparts a quarter of a revolution to the wheel S', which in its
turn imparts a half revolution to the pinion. R, and in consequence to the
small crank Q', which itself imparts the horizontal motion to the large bar P¹.
Upon this bar are fixed as many pins as there are needle carriers.
An equal number of quadrants.X' (Figures 2 and 3, Sheet 2) are arranged
upon the carriages E, and a pin passes through them, which serves for their
axes, such pin being fixed to the carriage. A tail of these. quadrants is
pierced with a small oval hole, through. which passes the pin fixed to the large
bar P. The edge of the quadrant is provided with a groove, and thus forms a
pulley, over which passes a cord k (Figure 1, Sheet 2), which passes also
round the groove in the needle carrying cylinder, thus causing it to make a
revolution first in one direction and then in another. This arrangement causes
the needle carrier to present to the fabric alternately, the side for receiving
the point of the needle, or that side which should receive it after it has
passed thro' the fabric.
It is at the moment when the carriages have finished their strokes towards
the centre of the machine that the arm acted upon by one of the jointed
levers H comes in contact with its lever f on the fork F', which actuates the
clutches E', and throws them into gear with one or other of the pinions.
The cranks & perform their half revolution and in consequence cause one
of the bent bars l' to rise and the other to descend. To each of these bars I'
is adapted a small tappet Y', which is placed horizontally, and which acts in
the underneath part of the lever Z, fixed to the end of the shaft A", placed
upon the carriage.
The object of this arrangement is to impart motion to this shaft A2, on
which are fixed as many rings of cast iron B² as there are needle carriers.
Each of these rings is provided with a spring C, which comes in contact
with the under side of the needles carrying pincers (this needle carrier is
represented in detail, Figures 2 and 3, Sheet 2), when it has passed through
the stuff. This movement causes it to seize the needle; the contrary effect
is simultaneously produced upon the other carriage. On this same shaft is

page_text: adapted and fixed by a key a small piece E, somewhat similar to the arm of a.
lever. This piece is forked, and receives in its fork another piece D, which,
has the form of a segment of a circle. This segment is mounted upon an.
axle, upon which it is capable of oscillating, but it is constantly held raised or
drawn against its fulcrum by the small spring b.
When the springs C2, carried by the large shaft A2, come in contact with
the under side of the needle carriers, the piece E2 makes a corresponding
movement, and the receding movement made by the large bar of the needle,
pushers places beneath this piece a support F, upon which the segment
De rests. This arrangement serves to maintain the needles always firmly held
when the carriages recede one from the other, while at the same time the
contrary movement is produced upon the other carriage.
On the internal face of the carriages (that is to say that on which the
needle carriers are fitted,) there extends along their whole length a rod G*, oa.
which are fitted the stretchers H².
On this rod is fixed a small cylinder 1" (Figure 1, Sheet 2, and Figure 3.
Sheet 1), at about midway of its length. To this cylinder is attached by
means of a screw or chain K, the other end of which is fixed to one of the,
ends of the curved cross piece L, bolted to one of the standards M², fixed to
the framing of the machine. The object of this chain is to impart motion
to the rod G when the carriages arrive at the end of their stroke, that is t
say, when they meet one another in the middle. This movement causes the
stretchers H to be raised. To the same cylinder is fixed, also by means of a
screw, a small strap N³, to the end of which is attached the weight 0. The
object of this arrangement is to produce the reverse movement in the rod G
which is imparted to it by the chain K. This. movement is produced when the
carriages recede from one another. A series of small frames or stretchers II*
are fitted upon this main rod G2. where they are maintained by means of small
lugs fixed to the rod. Through these lugs passes a piece, which passes
also through the hole made in one of the extremities of the stretchers.
The stretcher thus maintained, and being capable of oscillating freely, comes
in contact with a second rod P³, smaller than the first, and fixed to it by
means of six arms, each of which is pierced with a hole of the same size in
the rod P, so that this rod is maintained at a very short distance, say, three-
sixteenths of an inch from the first rod.,
One of the extremities of this small rod P" carries a small ratchet wheel
with its gear, and the whole rod is pierced with holes equal in number to the
stretchers; a hole is also cut opposite to the rod at the lower cross piece of
the stretcher. To these two holes are attached the two extremities of au
B

page_text: india-rubber thread, which is coiled upon the ratchet spindle P². This
thread can be stretched more or less, according to the degree of resistance to be
imparted to the stretchers. The (details 2 and 3) indicate the pushers which
come into action when the two bent rods I' move. They actuate the long
bar K', on which the small bell-crank levers M' are mounted, and in con-
sequence the bar 0¹ in which the pushers Q of the needles are arranged.
The needles themselves, in consequence of this movement, are pushed along
the grooves of the needle-carrying cylinder, and enter the fabric, whilst at the
same time they penetrate into the grooves of the opposite needle-carrying
cylinder, which is at that moment on the opposite side of the fabric, the
pincers of which come in contact with the needle at the same instant that
those of the former cylinder release their hold.
It is well understood that every time that the carriages move, the movement
that affects the one affects also the other, though in a contrary direction.
They are carried in two supports A³, fixed to the principal standards A. of
the machine.
The two horizontal arms of each of these bell-crank levers carry at their
extremities a wrought-iron cylinder or friction roller B³, on which the wooden
frame R², above described, rests. The three vertical arms of these bell-crank
levers S² are forked, in which fork is jointed a rod C³, which unites the three
bell-crank levers by means of a pin, thus allowing them to oscillate freely and
simultaneously. The right-hand extremity of this rod C³ is connected to a rod
belonging to a wrought-iron frame D³, described further on. These two rods
are united by means of an adjusting nut, one part of which is tapped with a
right and the other with a left-hand thread.
To the back portion of the wooden frame before referred to is bolted
laterally a piece of cast iron F³, in an opening in which is introduced the end
of a rod, which carries a second wrought-iron framework D³, similar to the
first, to which it is parallel.
A lever (G³, Figure 1) Sheet 1, is fixed by one of its ends to a strong
trunnion or pivot; which is fixed to the right-hand portion of the main framing.
The other extremity is itself provided with a trunnion, and forms a knee or
inclined plane. This lever passes into a socket fixed underneath one of the
carriages E. When the two carriages recede from one another; and have each
moved about two inches, the friction rollers beneath them encounter the
inclined plane of the lever before mentioned, and cause it to make an upward
motion. To the trunnion of this lever are attached and retained by a pin two
flat pieces of wrought iron. The opposite end of one of these two pieces is
provided with a hole, in which a trunnion of one of the cylinders or rollers Bs

page_text: passes. When the lever makes its motion upwards, and when consequently
the same movement is imparted to the three large bell-crank levers S, it also
elévates the whole of the apparatus arranged upon the wooden frame Re.
The large bell-crank levers S in this movement carry towards the extreme
right one of the small wrought-iron frames D, and thus entirely open an
orifice, by which certain narrow blades come out, which are of various lengths,
according to the pattern, as explained further on, and which are thus left free
to place themselves between a fixed fulcrum and the interior of the small
wrought-iron frame D³ at the side next o. The second piece of wrought iron
attached to the trunnion of the lever G, before referred to, is also provided
with a hole at its other end. This piece actuates a small bell-crank lever
mounted upon the same axis as one of the large bell-crank levers S², before
referred to. To the vertical branch of this small bell-crank lever (which
is forked) is united by a pin joint a flat bar or rod of wrought iron K³.
Its other end is attached by a bolt to one of the wooden bars or frames R.
When the lever G³ makes its upward movement, as we have seen, it moves
all the frame apparatus R in a horizontal direction, that is to say, from left to
right. The second small frame of wrought iron D³ follows this movement,
and a second orifice, through which the narrow blades can act, is opened in the
same manner as the first.
A small bell-crank lever H³, placed on the middle of the axis of the large
bell-crank lever S, is provided on its horizontal arm with a counterweight 13.
Its vertical arm is fixed by means of a pin to the end of a small piece of
wrought iron, the other end of which is also united by a pin to the two bars or
frames of wood. This counterweight 1 constantly acts against the fabric
holding apparatus R³ in a direction contrary to that of the lever G³, that is, from
right to left. This movement is produced when the two carriages E approach
one another, and when they are not more than about two inches distant from
the centre. At this instant, the narrow blade, which is placed horizontally and
underneath the wrought-iron frame 13 by the mechanism described further on,
engages the end of this frame, stops it in a very exact and precise manner at a
point exactly determined by the length of the narrow blade, and the horizontal
motion of the entire apparatus arranged upon the fabric holding apparatus R².
The vertical movement, which takes place simultaneously with this one, is
produced by the gravity of the apparatus arranged on the bars R³, which rests
on the cylinders or friction rollers of the large bell-crank levers S2, which move
their rods C³ in a horizontal direction, and in consequence the small wrought-
iron frame D³, which is attached to it. A second narrow blade comes forward,
together with the first, and stops the vertical motion of the apparatus R³ in a
DO

page_text: similarly precise and effective manner. A curved lever L³ is jointed at one of
its ends to the trunnion H³. To its other end is jointed a small vertical rod
Ms. The lower end of this rod is engaged in the forked horizontal part of a
bell-crank lever N³, to the second arm of which are also jointed two rods 0³,
which impart motion to the small bell-crank levers P³, which push laterally
the two slides Q³, which give both a lateral motion to the narrow blades, which
are arranged in numerical order in the two vertical sheet iron boxes L', and
draw them under the small wrought-iron frames D³, already described.
The bent lever L³ passes directly on to the back shaft A of the machine.
When the carriages E begin to leave the middle and recede from one another,
and when they have travelled about 3 inches, the knee or inclined plane of
another bent lever E³ comes in contact with the shaft A2, the lever moves
upwards at that extremity united to a rod M³, and it consequently imparts
motion to the rods Q³, which each push a narrow blade underneath the small
frames D, in order to replace those which have just been in action. These
narrow blades, pushed laterally by the rods or slides Q³, press upon the narrow
blades which have just been in action, and place them on a small table
described further on.
To the bent lever L³, before referred to, is attached a second knee piece,
which comes in contact with the under side of the back shaft A2; as soon as the
two carriages have finished their movement towards the middle of the machine,
the lever again descends, and the rods or slides Q make the motion already
described.
When the two carriages E again move towards the middle of the machine,
and when they are not more than about two inches from the centre, the large
grooved supports R³, on which are bolted the principal portions of the carriages
E, come into contact with the upper extremity of two levers S³, arranged one
upon the other in the form of a cross, and jointed to the same axis fixed to
the main framing A of the machine. To the lower extremity of these two
levers are jointed two small horizontal arms T. The other ends of these
arms are engaged in the forks of two cranks p, fixed on two small shafts u³,
which carry the small tables for receiving the narrow blades after they have
been pushed by the rods Q³, before referred to.
When the carriages E have completed their course towards the middle of
the machine, the tables V³ are raised vertically, together with the narrow
blade, which has been pushed upwards by those which the rods Q³ have
entered into the frames D³.
.
In proportion as the blades that have been used are thus raised they range
themselves in proper order in the box V. To the small shafts Us are adapted

page_text: two other arms or crank handles q, to the extremity of which are attached
two small chains X³, which pass round two grooved pullies Z³, arranged upon
an axis Y³; at the end of these small chains are two counterweights A 4.
This arrangement serves to restore the small tables on the shafts U³ to their
horizontal position when the two carriages recede from one another, and no
longer press upon the extremity of the two levers S³. When the two car-
riages E have receded from one another the entire length of the necdieful of
thread, and when the stretchers H have acted on this same thread in order
to give it the tension necessary for tightening the stitch, a bent tappet V
comes into contact with a small projection U on the shaft T of the gearing
mechanism, and causes the counterweight S to assume the position represented
in the plan. This movement has caused the clutch O to come into gear
with
one of the pinions H, before referred to, and consequently imparts a movement.
in a contrary direction to the carriages, that is to say, in a direction towards
the centre of the machine. A small arm B, mounted on the large shaft T,
carries a horizontal knee-piece C', which knee-piece hooks into a jointed
plate I, which is released at the moment when the counterweight S assumes
the position represented in the plan.
Two straps D', which pass around two small cylinders Z', are fixed at one
end to the late H', and at the other to two rods E, which extend along the
whole length of the machine. These two rods E' actuate as many small
arms F as there are needle carriers. These small arms are each surmounted
by a small steel wire or slightly bent finger G* (shewn in dotted lines in
Figure 1, Sheet 1. In consequence of the motion imparted to this apparatus
by the knee-piece C, the small fingers or steel springs come into a position,
resting on the thread to be used in the embroidery, keeping the loop which
the thread forms on the back of the stuff extended in exactly the same manner
as it would be done by the finger of a work woman, thus preventing it from
entangling or getting into knots.
A counterweight K serves to restore the small levers to their position repre-
sented in the plan. The fabric frames X² are each composed of two rods of
wrought iron perfectly cylindrical, a small portion at the extremities of each
being made square, in order that they may be turned at will by means of a
key. These rods are polished, and they are pressed upon at their extremities
by two plates of wrought iron, hollowed out in a semicircular form, and united,
by two screws.
The blades for composing the pattern are of wrought iron, flat, and about
seven-eights of an inch wide by one-sixteenth thick. At one of their ends

page_text: they have a round hole pierced in them, of about five-sixteenths of an inch in
diameter. At one of their ends they are each numbered, and this number
indicates their length, according to a guage explained further on.
The guage
is simply composed of a long plate, on which are fixed two bars of metal,
'which, instead of being parallel, incline to one another at a slight angle. The
listance between them; which decreases from one end to the other, serves to
measure the blades, which are there introduced at an exact right angle.
Suitable divisions, which are marked along the bars, show the length of the
blades which are there introduced.
The needle carriers are represented in detail in Sheet 2 of the Drawings.
Figure 2 represents an elevation, Figure 3 a plan, Figure 4 an end view, and
Figures 5, 6, and 7 are detail views of the cylinder for carrying the needles.
The needle carriers are each composed of a support A, fixed to the needle
carriage E of the machine already described. To the top of this support,
which is forked, is jointed a lever C, which carries at one of its extremities a
cylindrical cap D, terminating in a point at its extremity, and provided with a
small circular groove. This cap D is introduced into a hole in the end of the
lever C, where it is retained by a pin, which passes through the lever and into
the small circular groove in the cap. The hole in the lever C thus serves as
a socket for the cap to turn in. The needle-carrying cylinder E carries at its
lower extremity a pivot F; it has also, at about two-thirds of its height, a
groove G, at which place the cylinder is the same thickness as the pivot F,
and lower down a second groove H, to receive a cord k, which is in com-
munication with the segment X, already described. A slot reduces the
cylinder to a little more than half its thickness.
At the upper end of the cylinder E is cut a circular groove I (Figure 6),
to receive the holding cap D. An angular groove M, Figure 7, is also made
in the upper end of the cylinder E, to the same depth as the circular groove I.
This angular groove divides the head of the cylinder into two exactly equal
parts, and its object is to receive the needles N¹.
To the cap D is fixed a small pin S, which plays freely on the groove s
in the guide T, soldered to the upper part of the needle-carrying cylinder E.
The support A receives this cylinder in two small forked bearings, one of
which embraces the groove G, whilst the other receives the pivot F. The
bottom of this last bearing forms a footstep, in which rests the end of the
pivot F. A small fixed stop P penetrates into the slot K in the cylinder E,
so that this cylinder in making its half revolution either way comes in contact
with the stop.

page_text: Q. indicates the needle pushers, which have been already described; N
represents an embroidery needle,, which is exactly similar to those used in
hand embroidery; R, R, represents four screws, which press against the
carriages E, and so regulate the height of the needle carriers.
I shall now, proceed to describe the apparatus for preparing the patterns.
This apparatus is intended to arrange two sets of figures, which shall point
out by the numbers successive blades which compose the pattern for the
machine; one set of blades is used for the vertical, and the other for the
horizontal motions.
Sheet 3 of the Drawings contains two modifications of this apparatus.
Figures 1 and 2 represent respectively an elevation and plan of the first
modification. A is a large table or plate of cast iron, perfectly flat, on which
is arranged a second plate B, firmly fixed to the first, around the circular edge.
Between these two plates a space is left in which is inserted the card C',
having traced upon it in red lines the pattern to be read and stamped; two
other plates D, in the form of a segment of a circle, are fixed close to the
circular edge of the plate B. Each of these plates D is divided by ten circular
lines, and also by straight lines if decimal parts are required. These lines are
drawn similar to geometrical decimal scales; thus, a radial line having the
centre of the circle at the pivot, and passing through the internal extremity
of one straight line, would not pass through the external extremity of the
same line, but through that of the neighbouring one. Each point of inter-
section of the straight lines with one of the circular lines represents a number,
which number indicates the blade which should be ranged in order on that
which precedes it.
The plate B has a rectangular recess made in it at E, in which a small steel
plate N is adjusted, having a similar though smaller recess in it at O. The
two sides F, F, of the plate N correspond in width to the length of the shortest
blades. Two arms G are each provided with a socket H, bored conically, and
adjusted on two small conical studs or pivots fixed to the blade B. The shorter
portions of these arms (the pivots being considered as the division) are slotted
at I; and in this slot slides a small piece of metal K, having a hole made in
it through which a vertical pin passes, which is then fixed to the steel plate N,
adjusted in the recess E of the plate B. When this plate N is exactly at the
bottom of the rectangular recess E, the two arms G, which extend to the
numbered segments D, point to K, which is the number of the shortest blade.
The part of the pattern which should be embroidered, and for which the
required blades have to be found, is placed in the square, over which the
interior angle of the steel plate N is capable of travelling, whilst the two armis

page_text: .
.
G are capable of travelling over the whole length of the numbered segments,
from 1 to the highest number indicating the longest blade.
The numbers pointed to by the arms G are the numbers of the blades which
should be placed in the box L', to the left of the machine. These blades
regulate the vertical movements of the frame carrying the fabric.
The numbers indicated by the arm G' are those of the blades which regulate
the horizontal movements, and should be placed in the box to the right hand of
the machine. In using this apparatus, the person who works it should act as if
le really were embroidering. Thus, in beginning to read a pattern, it begins
by recording the first blade, the numerical order of which on the pattern is 1,
an uneven number. This number is not that which is marked on the blade,
but simply the number which is first written down in the pattern. In juxta-
position to this number he writes the numbers of the blades, as indicated by
the arm G or G¹ on the plates D. In proportion as the reading continues, he
writes the numbers below the others, side by side with the progressive numbers,
and so on till the whole pattern is read off.
Number 1, for example, represents the action of an embroideress who
passes her needle up through the fabric from beneath the embroidery frame.
Number 2, and all the even numbers, represent the contrary or downward
action.
In reading and finishing the pattern a steel pin is used with a fine point and
a head.
When the perforation is made, the pin is maintained in its hole by pressing
the finger on the head. With the other hand the steel plate N is drawn along
that side of the recess E in the plate B3 which is facing the set of numbers
required; those blades, for example, which are required for the vertical move-
ment, and the number indicated by the intersection of the pointer or arm G
with the nearest of the circular lines, is written on the pattern in juxtaposition
to the numbers of the numerical order. The plate is then made to slide along
the other side of the recess E, and a similar process is gone through in another
pattern with reference to the horizontal movement, as indicated by the second
arm G¹. A pattern is thus composed by obtaining two series of blades,
arranged in the order indicated.
The mechanism of the second apparatus, shown in Figures 3 and 4 (Sheet 3),
differs from the first, and its action being more simple, whilst at the same time
it is more precise and prompt in its action.
The two plates A and B in this apparatus remain almost unaltered; tho
plates or segments D, on which the numbers are marked, are also similar
to those already referred to.

page_text: The small steel plate N of the first machine is dispensed with, though the
plate B on which it worked is still provided with a rectangular recess E.
The two pointer arms G & G are also each provided with the small socket
F, similar to those of the first apparatus. They each carry a pin at their
extremities II; and at the same distance on the other side of the fixed centre
Fare fitted two slides I, in cach of which works a pin. A small and
slightly elongated opening of the same width as the pin is made in the arms G
and G, and receives these pins.
The links K are jointed at about their middle to two pivots L, fixed to the
bars M. To the extremities N of these two links are fixed two pins O. Their
other ends work in the same manner as the arms G, G', on pins in tlie slides I.
On the extremities of the arms, as well as on the ends N of the links K, before
referred to, and on their centres, are arranged two slotted bars R. The
extremities S of these slotted bars carry a small tube T, which is held in
position at its upper end by two branches U, fixed to the slotted bars R
by screws. In the interior of this tube, which is perfectly bored, there is placed
a small rod V, which slides accurately but easily in it. The upper extremity
of this rod is furnished with a small head X, which forms a sort of collar,
under which a spiral spring is arranged which tends constantly to raise the rod.
The lower extremity is provided with an extremely fine point Y, which serves
to perforate the pattern as required.
The advantage which this arrangement has over the first-described one is
that it enables the operator to obtain both the required numbers at the same
time and with the required exactitude.
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of the said
Invention, and the manner in which the same is or may be used or carried into
effect, I would observe, in conclusion, that I do not confine or restrict myself to
the precise details or arrangements which I have had occasion to describe or
refer to, as many variations may be made therefrom without deviating from
the principles or main features of the said Invention; but what I consider to
be novel and original, and therefore claim as the Invention secured to me by
the herein-before in part recited Letters Patent, is,-
First, the general construction, arrangement, and combination of mechanism
for embroidering by means of needles, similar to those used in hand-sewing, as
herein-before described, and illustrated by the Drawings, which mechanism
may also be employed in the operation of sewing or uniting fabrics together.
Second, the system or mode of producing the required design upon the
fabric by means of blades of different lengths, which regulate the vertical and
horizontal movements of the fabric frame, as herein-before described.

page_text: Third, the peculiar constructions and arrangements of machinery or ap-
paratus for preparing the patterns, as herein-before described, and illustrated
on Sheet 3 of the Drawings.
In witness whereof, I, the said John Henry Johnson, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, the Ninth day of July, One thousand eight
hundred and fifty-seven.
J. HENRY JOHNSON. (L.S.)