Improvements in Lace and in the Methods of Producing the same.
Year: 1897

page_text: PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Lace and in the Methods of Producing the same.
JOHN EMANUEL DUDSON of 17 Dobenau Strasse Plauen, I.V. in the Kingdom
of Saxony Mesh-hand, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as
follows:-
This invention relates to improvements in lace produced on curtain lace
machines and in the methods of producing such lace, the object of the present
invention being the production on curtain lace machine of a lace having a pattern
with a cross net between the same but without the cross nett under the pattern as
is necessary in cross net lace as at present produced.
According to this invention the machine is provided with guide bars and inter-
ceptors both of which are mounted and actuated as in an ordinary machine, but
the interceptors are operated at the back and front motions of the machine instead
of at one motion only as is the case on machine making cross net according to the
ordinary method.
For producing a lace with a cross net ground and combination effects the machine
is fitted with three guide bars. The back or number one guide bar is supplied
with thick threads which are drawn from spools and the other two bars are supplied
with threads from one or more warp beams, or from spools, but in the latter case
the threads are passed round a tension roller. The guide bars and interceptors are
so operated that the thick spool threads are pillared through the fabric, except
when used for the thickened part of the pattern, while the crossings in the net and
in the combination effects are produced by the threads in the two front bars. In
some cases a fourth guide bar is used and is threaded with threads from a warp
beam. The threads in the fourth guide bar are used for pillaring only while the
thick spool threads may be used for the thick parts of the pattern only, or they
may be pillared with the threads in the fourth bar when not required for the
pattern. The crossings are made by the threads in the second and third guide
bars.
For producing what is known as cross ground Swiss lace which is a lace having
a ground of cross net and a pattern, the machine is provided with at least four
guide bars which are threaded in the same manner as the bars in the method
described for making cross net and combination effects, but the threads for the
second and third guide bars are drawn from spools instead of warp beams and no
tension roller is used. For the cross ground Swiss lace three sets of spools are
used and the interceptors are worked at both motions of the machine.
L 1
LA 1907
W. H. POTTER,
Nottingham, Patent Agent,

page_text: Improvements in Lace and in the Methods of Producing the Same.
JOHN EMANUEL DUDSON of 17 Dobenau Strasse Plauen, I.V. in the Kingdom
of Saxony Mesh-hand do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in
what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement:->
This invention relates to improvements in lace produced on curtain lace
machines, and in the methods of producing the same, the object of the invention
being the production on curtain lace machines of a lace having a pattern or
clothing with a cross net between the same but without the cross net under the
pattern as is in such lace as at present made; also the manufacture of a lace with
a cross net and combination effects.
The machine used for carrying out this invention is provided with guide bars
and jacks or interceptors. which are mounted and actuated by! the means and in
the manner employed in existing machines, but, according to this invention the
jacks are actuated or selected at the back and front motions of the machine,
instead of at one motion only as is at present done when making cross net lace.
For producing a lace with a cross net and combination effects three guide bars
are used. The back or number one guide bar is supplied with thick spool threads
which are pillared through the fabric except when used for clothing' or patterning.
The other two bars are supplied with warp threads which are used for making the
crossings in the net and in the combination work. In some cases a fourth guide
bar is used and it is supplied with threads from a warp beam. These latter threads
are used for pillaring only, while the thick spool threads may be pillared with the
threads in the fourth guide bar when not required for clothing or patterning, or
the spool threads may be used for clothing or patterning only, the threads between
two sets of clothing or patterning being afterwards clipped off. The guide bars,
numbered two and three may be supplied with spool threads, but in this case the
threads must be passed round a tension roller.
For making cross net with clothing or patterning similar to the lace known as
cross ground Swiss lace, the machine is provided with at least four guide bars.
The bar number four is supplied with threads from a warp beam and the other
three bars with spool threads which pass from the spools to the bars without
passing round a tension roller.
In the accompanying drawings
Fig. 1 is a diagram referred to in explanation of the exesting method of making
cross net with the use of jacks.
Fig. 2 is a diagram referred to in explanation of the method of making cross
net according to this invention.
T
Fig. 3 is a diagram of the net as made according to this invention and
Fig. 4 is a diagram referred to in explanation of the motions of the jacks or
interceptors.
In the manufacture of cross net with the use of jacks or interceptors as made
according to the method known previous to this invention all the crossings are
made on the front motions of the machine, or on the back motions of the machines,
and consequently there must be an even number of half motions between each
crossing. This is illustrated in Fig. 1 which is a diagram referring to a net made
with jacks and with six half motions for each crossing. In the columns a the
crossings are made at the first half motion of the machine in columns b, which
represent adjacent rows of meshes, the crossings are made at the third half motion

page_text: of the machine, and in columns c, also adjacent rows of meshes with regard to
columns a, the crossings are made at the fifth half motion of the machine and it
is evident that the crossings in alternate rows of meshes are not in the centre of
the meshes in the other rows.
Cross net can also be made without the use of jacks, and the crossings in one
row of meshes can then be made in the centre of the meshes in adjacent rows, but
without jacks it is impossible to obtain combination effects.
According to the present invention the crossings may be formed with the use of
jacks at any half motion of the machine as shown in Fig. 2 and the crossings in
every row of meshes can therefore be made opposite the centre of the meshes in
adjacent rows.
In Fig. 3 which represents a cross net made according to this invention the spool
threads are pillared through the fabric and the movements of the warp
threads no u and r at the various motions of the machines are indicated by numbers
which represent the motions and letters representing the different warp threads.
At each half motion of the machine the guide bars have two movements, and in
the first and every other odd numbered motion the guide bars move as follows
reference being had to Fig. 4. The spool bar f and warp bar g or h both rise two
gaits, while the warp bar h or g remains stationary. The jacks are then actuated
or selected, after which, the bar f rises two more gaits, the bar g or h falls one
gait and the bar h or grises one gait.
At the second and every other even numbered half motion of the machine the
bar f falls three gaits the bar g or h remains stationary, and the bar h or g falls
two gaits. The jacks are then actuated or selected, after which the bar f falls one
gait, the bar or h also falls one gait and the bar h or grises one gait.
In Fig. 4 the jacks or interceptors are lettered e, and the dotted lines k, l, m,
represent the various positions to which the jacks are moved. At the first, second,
and third, half motions of the machine the odd numbered jacks enter the threads
At the fourth, fifth, and
to the line m and the even numbered jacks to the line k.
sixth half motions of the machine all the jacks enter the threads to the line m.
At the seventh, eighth, and ninth half motions of the machine the odd numbered
jacks enter the threads to the line k and the even numbered jacks to the line m,
and at the tenth, eleventh, and twelfth half motions of the machine all the jacks
enter the threads to the line k. At the completion of each half motion of the
machine all the jacks are withdrawn from the threads.
For producing combination effects, the jacks required are selected by the
jacquard, and the selected ones for two consecutive movements enter the threads
to the line m and for the two following motions the same jacks enter the threads
to the line k, the guide bars being operated in the same manner as when making
cross net.
The clothing or patterning of the lace is produced by the spool threads, the jacks
being held out of action.
Instead of the full threaded guide bars herein referred to, the threads in each bar
may be carried by a larger number of bars but such bars must all be worked
together as a single bar.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
Invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is
1. The manufacture of cross net by the use of three guide bars and jacks or
interceptors operating according to the method herein specified.
2. The manufacture of cross net with combination effects by the use of three
bars and jacks or interceptors operating according to the method herein specified.
3. The manufacture of cross net by the means and in the manner herein
specified.
4. The manufacture of cross net with clothing or patterning by the means and
in the manner herein specified.

page_text: 5. The manufacture of cross net with combination effects with clothing or
patterning by the means and in the manner herein specified.
1007
W. H. POTTER,
Nottingham, Patent Agent.