An Improved Manufacture of Cloth.
Year: 1892

page_text: Date of Application, 16th Sept., 1892
Complete Specification Left, 16th June, 1893-Accepted, 16th Sept. 1893
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
An Improved Manufacture of Cloth.
We, SAMUEL FIRTH, of Marsden, near Huddersfield, Yorkshire, Manufacturer,
and COOPER FIRTH, of Marsden, aforesaid, Manufacturer, do hereby declare the
nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention has reference to an improved manufacture of cloth for trouserings,
suitings, and other purposes, our object therein being to obtain a novel and
enhanced appearance or effect on a fabric composed partly of woollen or angola
and partly of worsted or other lustrous yarns in which the worsted or lustrous part
forms the principal or leading feature of the design or pattern.
In carrying out our invention, we employ woollen or angola warp and worsted
or other yarns having a lustrous effect either single or two fold arranged alternately
in sections, the number of ends of each description of warp being determined by
the width of the stripes or pattern to be produced on the fabric, and their distri-
bution through the healds or harness likewise depending on the exact nature of the
pattern or design. The construction of the cloth so far as regards the woollen or
angola warp, is ordinary but the worsted or lustrous warp is knitted to or secured
by the shoots of weft being floated or crossed over one or more ends of warp at
intervals in each section so that the said warp is brought prominently to the surface
or face of the cloth, whilst very little weft appears and that only at intervals and
is scarcely noticeable in the pattern or design formed by the alternate sections of
worsted or other lustrous warp. In addition to the solid or mixed design of worsted
appearing on the fabric, the portions of weft lying under the sections of worsted or
other lustrous warp cause the worsted warp to be slightly raised or to stand out
from the surface or face of the cloth. When the fabric has been passed through
the "finishing" process the worsted or lustrous stripes or pattern have or has a
lustre thereon in strong contrast to the dull woollen face, which is novel and
effective, presenting a result similar to or in imitation of a worsted fabric.
The warp may be single or double fold and where double the back or foundation
warp is preferably composed of woollen or angola, or it may be worsted, the worsted
warp where it appears on the face of the fabric being knitted or secured by the
weft on the surface and not passing through the back or ground warp. The weft
may be single or two fold and may be worsted, woollen, angola, or cotton.
The quality or appearance of the fabric may be varied by employing instead of
worsted warp, warp composed of silk, silk and worsted twisted together, mohair,
lustre yarns, or other suitable fibres or combinations of fibres either solid colours
or mixtures, other than woollen for producing the novel effects above described.
By the means and method set forth a cheap fabric can be produced in imitation
worsted fabric, and Dovel effects or designs can be produced on fabrics of
inferior or superior quality.
of
Dated this 15th day of September 1892.
TASKER & CROSSLEY,
Huddersfield, Agents.

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
An Improved Manufacture of Cloth.
We, SAMUEL FIRTH, of Marsden, near Huddersfield, Yorkshire, Manufacturer,
and COOPER FIRTH, of Marsden, aforesaid, Manufacturer, do hereby declare the
nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :--
This invention has reference to an improved manufacture of cloth for trouserings,
suitings and other purposes, our object therein being to obtain a novel and enhanced
appearance or effect on a fabric composed partly of woollen or angola and partly of
worsted or other lustrous yarns in which the worsted or lustrous part forms the
principal or leading feature of the design or pattern.
In order that the construction of the cloth according to our invention may be
more fully understood, reference is hereinafter had to the accompanying drawings
illustrating the treatment of the warp for producing a striped design or effect in
the cloth, the exact arrangement, however, of the warp threads and the method of
securing the lustrous warp to the woollen warp varying according to the nature
of the design, pattern, or effect it is desired to produce by the combination of said
warp, as will be well understood by those conversant with the manufacture of
cloth.
In the accompanying diagrams letter a denotes the lustrous yarns or warp
composed of worsted employed for producing the novel effects in the cloth, said
warp and the woollen or angola warp & being arranged alternately in sections, the
number of ends of each description of warp being determined by the width of the
stripes or pattern to be produced, and their distribution through the healds or
harness likewise depending thereon. From A to B on the left hand of the
line C, C, (Fig. 1) is illustrated the arrangement of one section of lustrous yarn to
form the stripe, which is repeated throughout the length of the piece being woven
and is the same in each parallel stripe d (see Fig 2) woven. On the right hand of
line C, C, is illustrated the ordinary construction or weave of the woollen or angola
warp between the stripes. The horizontal lines c shew the course of each
subsequent weft shoot from A to B in working out the number of ends of lustrous
warp so as to secure them to the ordinary warp, by which construction the lustrous
warp is brought prominently onto the surface of the fabric whilst the weft only
appears at intervals and is scarcely noticeable in the pattern or stripe produced. In
addition to the lustrous warp shewing prominently on the face of the fabric, the
construction shewn and described causes the said warp to be slightly raised above
the face of the cloth.
When the fabric has been passed through the finishing process the worsted stripes
or pattern have or has a lustre thereon in strong contrast to the dull woollen face or
ground of the cloth which is novel and effective and produces a result similar to
or in imitation of a worsted fabric.
In weaving a fabric with a woollen or angola backing according to our invention,
the back or foundation warp is ordinary whilst the lustrous warp to form the stripe
or pattern is introduced in the face warp in sections and alternately as before
explained. These ends of lustrous warp are also secured on the surface of the
fabric in the same manner as already described with reference to a fabric woven
without backing, but they are not passed through the back or foundation warp.
The quality or appearance of fabrics woven according to our invention may be
varied by employing instead of worsted warp, warp composed of silk, silk and
worsted twisted together, mohair, lustre yarns, or other suitable fibres or com-
binations of fibres, either solid colours or mixtures other than woollen, for producing
the novel effects above described.
The alternate sections of lustrous warp may be brought prominently onto the
surface of the fabric in the manner set forth at intervals instead of in continuous

page_text: stripes, and the number of ends of said sections of warp may also be varied in order
that a pattern or design other than a stripe may be formed thereby, this being
controlled by the jacquard or harness of the loom.
By the manufacture of cloth from a combination of woollen or angola warp and
warp composed of worsted or lustre yarns in the manner herein set forth, a cheaper
cloth can be produced in imitation of a worsted cloth and novel effects and designs
produced on fabrics of inferior or superior quality.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what
we claim is :-
Firstly. The manufacture of cloth from woollen or angola warp in combination
with a warp composed of worsted or lustrous yarns, in which the latter forms a
stripe or pattern having a lustre imparted thereto in strong contrast to the dull
woollen face, in the manner substantially as herein described and shewn.
Secondly. The manufacture of cloth from a combination of woollen or angola
warp, and another warp composed of worsted, silk, silk and worsted twisted together,
mohair, lustre yarns, or other fibres or combinations of fibres either solid colours
or mixtures other than woollen, wherein the said warp for producing the lustrous
stripes or effects is secured by shoots of weft in the manner and for the purposes
substantially as herein shewn and described.
Dated this 15th day of June 1893.
TASKER & CROSSLEY,
Huddersfield, Agents.

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