IMPROVEMENTS IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF STUDS OR BUTTONS
Year: 1872

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Edward Griffith Brewer, of 89, Chancery Lane,
in the County of Middlesex, Patent Agent, for the Invention of
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF STUDS OR BUTTONS." -A com-
munication from abroad by Désirè Goubet, of 2, Rue Sainte
Appoline, Paris, France.
Scaled the 17th September 1872, and dated the 25th March 1872.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Edward Griffith Brewer
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on
the 25th March 1872.
I, EDWARD GRIFFITH BREWER, of 89, Chancery Lane, in the County
of Middlesex, Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature of the said
Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF STUDS OR BUTTONS," (a
communication to me from abroad by Désirè Goubet, of 2, Rue Sainte
Appoline, Paris, France), to be as follows:-
It is well known that with studs of ordinary construction much time
is sometimes occupied, especially when the button hole is small, and
the wristband, shirt collar, or other article is often much rumpled by

page_text: the introduction of the stud or studs; now the object of this Invention
is to obviate these inconveniences, with this object the studs are made
of three pieces or parts as follows:-The first part or head of the stud
may be made of any shape, of any desired material, ornamented or other-
wise as fancy may dictate; the second which connects the shoe or third
piece to the first part or head is flat with the angles rounded off; the
third part or shoe is by preference of oval or elliptical shape with a
convex surface, and the ends rounded (demi-ovoide). The combination of
these two shapes, viz., the flat stem and the oval shoe at right angles
to one another forms the essential improvement herein, for by this
means great facility is afforded for the introduction of the stud into the
button hole, and when introduced and the stud turned the oval portion
is across the hole, in which position it is maintained by the fabric
coming against the flat part, and the stud cannot therefore leave the
button hole until it is turned round. Sometimes the shoe piece is made
narrower than that in the other arrangement, but always with the shoe
piece at right angles or nearly so to the central or flat piece, but the
elliptical form before mentioned is preferred, and the Invention sub-
stantially consists in the combination of the flat middle or stem portion
with the elliptical or other shaped shoe piece at right angles to each
other
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Edward Griffith Brewer in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 24th September 1872.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, EDWARD 2
GRIFFITH BREWER, of 89, Chancery Lane, in the County of Middlesex,
Patent Agent, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Twenty-fifth day of March, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-two, in the thirty- 3
fifth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give
and grant unto me, the said Edward Griffith Brewer, Her special
licence that I, the said Edward Griffith Brewer, my executors, admi-
nistrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Edward Griffith
Brewer, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time 3
agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter

page_text: during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make,
use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain
and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE CONSTRUCTION OF STUDS OR BUTTONS," (a communi-
cation to me from abroad by Désirè Goubet, of 2, Rue Sainte Appoline,
Paris, France,) upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said
Edward Griffith Brewer, my executors or administrators, by an instru-
ment in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and scals,
should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said In-
vention, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and
cause the same to be filed in the Great Scal Patent Office within six
calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters
Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Edward Griffith Brewer, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same
is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement, reference being had to the accompanying
Drawings and to the letters of reference marked thereon, that is to
say-
It is well known that with studs of ordinary construction much time
is sometimes occupied, especially when the button hole is small, and
the wristband, shirt collar, or other article is often much rumpled by.
the introduction of the stud or studs; now the object of this Invențion
is to obviate these inconveniences, with this object the studs are made
of three pieces or parts as follows:-The first part or head of the stud
may be made of any shape, of any desired material, ornamented or other-
wise as fancy may dictate; the second which connects the shoe or third
piece to the first part or head is flat with the angles rounded off; the
third part or shoe is by preference of oval or elliptical shape with a
convex surface, and the ends rounded (demi-ovoide). The combination of
these two shapes, viz., the flat stem and the oval shoe at right angles
to one another forms the essential improvement herein, for by this
means great facility is afforded for the introduction of the stud into the
button hole, and when introduced and the stud turned the oval portion
is across the hole, in which position it is maintained by the fabric
coming against the flat part, and the stud cannot therefore leave the
button hole until it is turned round. Sometimes the shoe piece is made
narrower than that in the other arrangement, but always with the shoe

page_text: piece at right angles or nearly so to the central or flat piece, but the
elliptical form before mentioned is preferred, and the Invention sub-
stantially consists in the combination of the flat middle or stem
portion of the elliptical or other shaped shoe piece at right angles to
each other.
The accompanying Drawings fully illustrate the manner in which this
Invention is carried into effect, similar letters of reference referring to
like parts in all the Figures.
a is the upper or first part of the stud or button ornamented or not
as desired; b is the central or second portion, and c is the third or lower
part.
Figure 4 shews that the angles of the second part may be rounded
off, and it is supposed to be taken through the line 1, 1, of Figure 2,
or in section it may have an clongated elliptical shape, the third part c
is oval or elliptical with a convex and demi-ovoide lengthened surface
as shewn in the Drawing that is flat on one side, rounded on the other,
and forming a demi-ovoide. This combination of the two shapes is a
great improvement upon studs and buttons of ordinary form, shape, or
construction, because they can be inserted with great facility into
button holes by reason of the stem 6 being flat or oval, which while
it holds by its length all the straight surface of the shoe c leaves an
overlap free on each side, thus forming at each end as it were a hold
on the fabric, and in such manner that to introduce the shoc c length-
ways into the button hole there is no resistance offered to its entering
with ease and to turn the button, but it is almost impossible to get it out
without replacing it into the position in which it entered.
Figures 5, 6, 7, and 8 shew four views of a stud or button where the
third part or shoe c is of a different form to the others just described,
at the same time preserving the advantages before enumerated, but this
is only given as an example of an analagous arrangement and hardly
possessing the same advantages, for the arrangement first described
is preferable. An analagous result may be obtained by placing, for
example, two stems or bars to connect the parts a and c instead of the
central portion or stem b, but this is found to be less firm.
Figures 9 and 10 shew the button or stud thus united to the shoe c
by two stems i. Figure 10 is a side view and horizontal section of this
same button or stud, but it must be understood that this is only given

page_text: as an example of how the Invention may be modified, for it is evident
that various modifications might be made in it without departing from
the Invention.
The intention of shewing the views, Figures 11 and 12, is to illustrate
that the Invention is based on the combination of a flat or oval stem,
which on two sides diminishes or tapers from the button to its junc-
tion with the shoc, the other two sides being more or less flattened
to facilitate extraction. The shoe c is of an elliptical and conical
form, its proportions are regulated so that it may enter into the button
holes by pressure, and when fixed in the said button holes stand cross-
wise.
At Figures 13 and 14 a button made according to this Invention is
shewn applied to a cuff or wristband. At Figure 13 the commencement
of the operation is shewn, that is to say, the introduction of the shoc c
longitudinally into the button hole, and in this position it will be
noticed that it is only necessary to slightly press the button in order
that the shoe may pass through the two button holes, afterwards it is
only necessary to give the button a quarter of a turn, in order that
the stem may come into the position shewn in Figure 14 lengthwise
in the button hole and the shoe on the contrary crosswise, thus the
button is placed in an excessively firm position by reason of the shape
of the stem combined with the shoe c, the form always giving it a
tendency to remain in the button hole, from which position it cannot
move until the button is turned in order to withdraw it.
The size of the shoe may be varied and it may be pointed as shewn
in Figure 15, and of other forms and sizes to adapt it to the button
hole to which it may be applied. These principles being perfectly esta-
blished the proportions of the clliptic shoe may be varied and it may
be made in any desired way. It may be made solid or hollow with one
or several stems and of any size based upon the principles before
indicated, and the priority of application is claimed to the construction
of buttons of all kinds, that is to say, the combination of the elliptical
and conical forms of the shoc arranged according to the object to be
attained, viz., 1st., the insertion; 2nd., the fixing; 3rd., the extraction.
In general the transverse oval or flat stem 6 has the double advantage
of allowing the button hole to come back to its natural form as soon
as the button is inserted and the shoe c has passed through, and in this
way the button holes are not pressed out of shape, while at the same

page_text: time the material is not injured. It must be understood that these
studs may be made of any size, of any suitable material, and be used for
any purpose where they are useful, required, or desired.
The characteristic part of these improvements consists in the elliptical
or demi-ovoide form of the shoe c, (but it may be cylindrical) in com-
bination with the flat or oval part which connects this shoe to the under
part of the button, in such manner that this middle part 6 which is
flat or of a lengthened oval shape has its axis or its length placed
perpendicularly to the axis of the ellipse or demi-ovoide or demi-
ellipsoide of the shoe c. These studs or buttons may be made hollow
by employing sheet metal, by the aid of stamps and dies similar external
forms may be obtained; if the precious metals are used the price is
reduced because of the light weight employed, tool work lasts longer
and is better, but these studs may be made of a combination of metals
and stones; for example, the shoe may be applied to cheap buttons,
that is the shoe may be made of common metal such as copper, and the
button proper of gold or other precious metal or metals ornamented
with stones or not, as desired.
Having now described the nature of the said Invention, and in what
manner the same is to be performed, I declare that I claim,—
First. Making buttons or studs with a flat or oval stem uniting the
button or stud proper with the shoc, which may be elliptical, conical,
or of other shape, all substantially as described and shewn in the accom-
panying Drawings.
Second. Making studs or buttons with two or more stems or bars to
unite the shoe to the button, substantially as described and shewn.
Third. Making the shoe pointed, substantially as shown and described
with reference to Figure 15.
In witness whereof, I, the said Edward Griffith Brewer, have here-
unto set my hand and scal, this Twenty-fourth day of Septem-
ber, in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and
seventy-two.
EDWP. GRIFFITH BREWER. (L.S.)
EDW³. GRIFFITH BREWER. (L.S.)