IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES
Year: 1855

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Benjamin Moore, of New York, United States, but
now of Paris, Empire of France, and of 46, Regent Street, Middlesex,
for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES."-A commu-
cation
Sealed 'the 26th October 1855, and dated the 27th August 1855.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Benjamin Moore at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 27th
August 1855.
I, BENJAMIN MOORE, of New York, United States, but now of Paris,
Empire of France, and of 46, Regent Street, Middlesex, do hereby declare the
nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES," (a com-
munication from a foreigner residing abroad), to be as follows, viz':
These improvements consist of several arrangements applicable to sewing
machines in general, and also of a novel apparatus for binding hats, &c.
Sheet 1 of the annexed Drawings shews a machine comprising the several
arrangements; Fig. 1 being a side elevation; Fig. 2, a front elevation; Fig. 3,
a plan without the top bracket; and Fig. 4, a transverse section through the
line A, B, Fig. 3, shewing a particular araangement of the machine. The
same letters of reference stand for like parts in the different Figures.
The machine is set in motion by means of the hand or fly wheel a, which may
[Price 8d.]

page_text: be driven by a connecting rod and treadle. The wheel is secured on a shaft b,
running in suitable bearings in the under part of the machine. This shaft
carries three cams c, d, e, each of which has on its cylindrical circumference a
groove, which corresponds to the particular motion which it is intended to
produce. The cam c gives to the needle bar g, which carries the needle h, a
vertical reciprocating motion by means of the bell crank lever f, whose
extremity carries a roller entering into the groove of the cam, and the cam is
grooved in such manner that the needle performs two up and down strokes
whilst the shaft and the cams c, d, e, turn round once. The cam ( moves the
lever arm i, which is centered at k. At the opposite extremity this lever carries
the spool, which is mounted upon a moveable skewer or spit m, having at
one end a friction washer n, against which the spring o presses; this pressure
may be regulated by an adjusting screw. The lever which carries the spool/
remains motionless during the greater part of the revolution of the shaft b, and
moves only when the needle begins to descend; when this takes place the spool
backing draws the thread tight, and only loosens it when the needle is in the
fabric. The necessary tightness may also be given to the thread of the spool
by placing the spool upon a vertical spindle, fixed on the table of the machine
behind the lever i, and also furnished with a friction washer. In this case the
end of the lever i is perforated, or lias an eyelet, and the thread whilst passing.
from the spool to the eyelet passes round a smooth ferrule or tube, with a
branch standing out square to it, and the thread, being wound once or several
times round said ferrule, will require less or more force for sliding upon it, and
thus the necessary tension is obtained. The came drives the lever p, which is
linked at q, and moves the shuttle carrier s, and thereby the shuttle t, to and
fro in the shuttle race u by means of the rod r.
The shuttle t, which is shewn at Fig. 5, carries inside a small spool or
bobbin, upon which the under thread is wound. This spool turns between
pivots or points, and the necessary tension is given to its thread by passing the
same through one or more of the fine holes made on one side of the shuttle
for that purpose. The shuttle passes with its pointed. end between the thread
and the needle h when the latter has attained its lowest position, and when it
has already begun its return stroke; whilst the shuttle thus passes its thread
into this loop the needle remains stationary, aud only completes its return
stroke when the shuttle is past the needle. The fabric to be sewn is laid under
the foot pad or presser plate v, which is a portion of the slide bar w. This
slide bar has at its upper end a pin, upon which a spring a is made to press,
the tension of this spring being regulated by the set screw y, and thus the slide

page_text: bar and presser plate v is made to come down and press upon the fabric which
rests on the plate a¹. The notched lever z is for lifting the foot pad voff when
it is desired to turn the fabric, &c.
Fig. 4 shews a vertical cross section of the arrangement by which the
fabric is made to receive a regular progressing motion so as to obtain stitches
of uniform length. There is also an arrangement in connexion with this
which is for obtaining a wide range of stitches. For this purpose the
shaft 6 is furnished with a cam b', which is cut out in two opposite points,
as shewn at Fig. 4. Before this cam there are two others c¹, c¹, which
actuate the bell-crank lever d¹, at the upper extremity of which there are
two rectangular notched or striated plates. The guide-rod e¹, upon which
the bell-crank lever di is rivetted, draws the latter back by the action of
the coiled spring f¹ as soon as the cams c¹ cease to act. The stroke of the
lever d or of the notched plates is regulated by means of the screw i¹, by
unscrewing or screwing which longer or shorter stitches may be obtained. The
above-mentioned plate a¹, which is fixed upon the bell-crank lever k¹, is for
preventing the fabric from being dragged back by the return motion of the
notched plates. For this purpose, the lever, k¹ is raised by the cam 6', when
said return motion takes place, and the fabric is thus held firm between
the smooth plates a¹ and the foot pad v, and when the notched bars perform
their forward motion they descend out of contact with the fabric. Theshuttle,
which is shewn at Fig. 5, Sheet 1, is constantly but slightly pressed against
the shuttle race by a small flat spring, which is fixed upon the shuttle carrier,
the needle thread passing between said spring and the shuttle. The small pivot
which receives the point of the spool at the round end of the shuttle is actuated
by a coiled spring lodged in the solid part of the shuttle, so that by pushing
said pivot forwards the spool may be put in.
The apparatus for binding hats is shewn on Sheet 2; Fig. 1 being a plan,
shewing the position of the binding apparatus in relation to the sewing appa-
ratus, which is the same in principle as that above described; and Fig. 2, a
vertical section of the contrivance for guiding the ribbon. b is a table which
comes level with that of the sewing machine. This table has a slot c, through
which passes a skewer or spit d, carrying a wooden roller for guiding the hat
internally, and forcing the edge of the brim into the binding guage. By means
of a system oflevers placed under the tableb, the skewer d may be set nearer
to or farther from the binding apparatus, according to the size of the hat, and
this is effected by unscrewing the screw and putting the rod back or forward;
but even when this rod has again been screwed tight, the rollerd may still give

page_text: way to the inequalities in the hat, owing to the coiled spring 9. The ribbon
or tape i for binding the hat is wound between two plates /, which are free to
turn and move freely upon a centre stem, so that any width of ribbon may be
used. From these plates the ribbon i passes upon the guide & into the guiding
apparatus, which leads it between two bent plates. The inner one of these
plates receives the edge of the hat, and the outer plate is for forcing the ribbon
upon said edge. The screw is for fixing two small hooks 7, 7, which take
hold of the edge of the ribbon, and regulate its position in such manner that
it laps over the hat edge as much below as above. By working the screw / the
ribbon may be set according to its width. The hat receives its progressive feed
motion in the same manner as has been described above, i.e., by means of the
notched plate o. The roller p is for guiding the edge of the hat, and may
set to suit the diameter of the hat.
be
Fig. 3, Sheet 2, shows another binding apparatus, consisting of a gouged
roller !, which is contained within a plate, having the form shewn on the
Drawing, for receiving the edge of the hat. For different sizes of ribbon a set
of different sized rollers may be used.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Benjamin Moore in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
4th February 1856.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, BENJAMIN
MOORE, of New York, United States, but now of Paris, Empire of France,
and of 46, Regent Street, Middlesex, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-seventh day of August, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-five, in the nineteenth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the
said Benjamin Moore, Her special licence, that I, the said Benjamin Moore, my
executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Benjamin
Moore, my executors, administrators, or assigns, should at any time agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during
the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise,
and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the
Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
SEWING MACHINES," a communication from a foreigner residing abroad, upon

page_text: the condition (amongst others) that I, the said Benjamin Moore, by an instru-
ment in writing under my hand and seal, should particularly describe and
ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same
was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent
Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the
said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Benjamin Moore, do hereby declare
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the follow-
lowing statement:-
These improvements consist of several arrangements applicable to sewing
machines in general, and also of a novel apparatus for binding hats and similar
articles.
Sheet of the annexed Drawings shews a machine comprizing theseveral
arrangements; Fig. 1 being a side elevation; Fig. 2, a front elevation; Fig. 3,
a plan without the top bracket; and Fig. 4, a transverse section through the
line A, B, Fig. 3, shewing a particular arrangement of the machine. The same
letters of reference stand for the like parts in the different Figures. The
machine is set in motion by means of the hand or fly wheel a, which may be
driven by a connecting rod and treadle; the wheel is secured on a shaft b
running in suitable bearings in the under part of machine. This shaft
carries three cams c, d, e, each of which has on its cylindrical circumference a
groove, which corresponds to the particular motion which it is intended to
produce. The cam c gives to the needle bar g, which carries the needle h,
a vertical reciprocating motion by means of the bell-crank lever f, whose
extremity carries a roller entering into the groove of the cam. And the cam is
grooved in such manner that the needle performs two up and down strokes
whilst the shaft b and the cams c, d, e, turn round once. The cam d moves
the lever arm i, which is centered at k. At the opposite extremity this lever is
perforated, or has an eyelet, for passing the thread through. Between this
eyelet and the spool 7, which is placed on the platform behind the lever i, the
thread is made to pass in the manner shewn over a smooth brass or other
tube m, which may be made to turn with stiff friction upon a rod fixed at the
centre k. Between the said eyelet and the needle eye the thread is made to
pass, as shewn, through various openings, so as to ensure the proper friction.
The same object may also be obtained by mounting the spool 7, as shewn at
Fig. 1 and 2, at the end of the lever i. The spool ris mounted upon a
moveable skewer or spit m, having at one end a friction washer n, against

page_text: which the spring o' presses. This pressure may be regulated by an adjusting
screw. The lever which carries the spool r, or an eyelet, as the case may be
remains motionless during the greater part of the revolution of the shaft b, and
moves only when the needle begins to descend. When this takes place, the
spool backing draws the thread and stitch tight, and only loosens the former
when the needle is in the fabric. The came drives the lever p, which is
linked' at q, and moves the shuttle carriers, and thereby the shuttle t, to and
fro in the shuttle race u by means of the rod 7.
The shuttle t, which is shewn at Fig. 5, carries inside a small spool.or
bobbin, upon which the under thread is wound. This spool turns between
pivots or points, and the necessary tension is given to its thread by passing
the same through one or more of the five holes made on one side of the
shuttle for that purpose. The shuttle passes with its pointed end first
between the thread and the needle after the latter has attained its lowest
position, and after it has already begun its return stroke; whilst the shuttle
thus passes its thread into this loop the needle remains stationary, and only
completes its return stroke when the shuttle has moved past the needle.' The
fabric to be sewn is laid under the foot pad or presser plate v, which is a
portion of the slide bar w; this slide bar has at its upper end a pin, upon
which a spring r is made to press, the tension of this spring being regulated
by the set screw y, and thus the slide bar and presser plate v is made to come
down and press upon the fabric which rests on the plate a¹. The notched
lever zis for lifting the foot pad v off when it is desired to turn the fabric, &c.
Fig. 4 shews a vertical cross section of the arrangement by which the fabric
is made to receive a regular progressing motion so as to obtain stitches of
uniform length. There is also an arrangement in connexion with this for
obtaining a wide range of stitches. For this purpose, the shaft b is furnished
with a cam b', which is cut out in two opposite places, as shewn at Fig. 4;
before this cam there are two others c¹, cl, which actuate the bell crank lever
d', at the upper extremity of which there are two rectangular notched or
striated plates. The guide rod e¹ upon which the bell crank lever d¹ is
rivetted, draws the latter back by the action of the coiled spring f¹ as soon as
the cams c¹ cease to act. The stroke of the lever d', or of the notched plates,
is regulated by means of the screw i¹, by unscrewing or screwing which longer
or shorter stitches may be obtained. The above-mentioned plate a¹, which is
fixed upon the bell crank lever k¹, is for preventing the fabric from being
dragged back by the return motion of the notched plates. For this purpose,
the lever ¹ is raised by the cam 6 when said return motion takes place, and

page_text: the fabric is thus held firm between the smooth plates a¹ and the foot pad v ;
and when the notched bars perform their forward motion, the smooth plates a¹
descend out of contact with the fabric. The shuttle, which is shewn at Fig. 5,
Sheet 1, is constantly but slightly pressed against the shuttle race by a small
flat spring, which is fixed upon the shuttle carrier, the needle thread passing
between said spring and the shuttle. The small pivot which receives the
point of the spool at the round end of the shuttle is actuated by a coiled spring
lodged in the back part of the shuttle, so that by pushing said pivot inwards
the spool may be put in. The necessary tightness of the spool in the shuttle
may also be obtained by a pivot to be screwed in the back end of the shuttle,
and which is worked by means of a screw key, the head of the screw pivot
being countersunk in the shuttle.
The apparatus for binding hats is shewn on Sheet 2; Fig. 1 being a plan,
shewing the position of the binding apparatus in relation to the sewing appa-
ratus, which is the same in principle as that above described; and Fig. 2, a
vertical section of the contrivance for guiding the ribbon. 6 is a table which
comes level with that of the sewing machine. This table has a slot c through
which passes a skewer or spit d; carrying a wooden roller for guiding the hat
internally, and forcing the edge of the brim into the binding gauge or guide.
By means of a system of levers placed under the table b, the skewer d may be
set nearer to or farther from the binding apparatus, according to the size of
the hat, and this is effected by unscrewing the screw e, and putting the rod f
back or forward; but even when this rod has again been screwed tight, the
roller d may still give way to the inequalities in the hat, owing to the coiled
spring g.
The ribbon or tape i for binding the hat is wound between two
plates 7, which are free to turn and move freely upon a centre stem, so that
any width of ribbon may be used. From thence the ribbon i passes upon the
guide into the guiding apparatus, which mainly consists of two bent plates
The inner one of these plates m receives the edge of the hat, and the
exterior platen is for forcing the ribbon upon said edge. The nut serves to
fix two small hooks r, r, which take hold of the edge of the ribbon, and
regulate its position in such manner that it laps over the hat edge as much
below as above. By working the nut 1, the guide may be set according to the
ribbon's width. The hat receives its progressive feed motion in the same
manner as has been described above, .c., by means of the notched plate o.
The roller is for guiding the edge of the hat, and may be set to suit the
diameter of the hat.
m, n.
Fig. 3, Sheet 2, shews another binding apparatus, consisting of a gouged

page_text: roller
1 which is contained within a plate, having the form shewn, for receiving
the edge of the hat. For different sizes of ribbon a set of different sized rollers
may be used. Figs. 4 & 5 represent two other guides, consisting of two
plates a & beach, by which the ribbon is guided.
Instead of the feed motion with a smooth and a notched plate, as described
with particular reference to Fig. 4, Sheet 1, another feed motion may also be
used, in which the smooth plate is dispensed with, the notched plate alone
being used, and made to perform a compound motion in such manner as to
rise above the platform of the machine, advance, then descend, and recede
back again below the level of the platform to its starting point. The contri-
vance which I prefer using is represented on Sheet 2 of the annexed Drawings;
Fig. 6 being a sectional front view of the machine, shewing the feed motion
only. a, a, frame of the machine; b, shuttle race; c¹, notched plate; d, stud
which carries the notched plate c¹; c, coiled spring acting upon said stud for
bringing the notched bar home; is a piece which carries the whole of c, d, e,
and may turn about g; h is a spring for depressing the piece f; i, i, j, İ
actuating cam on the shaft of the machine; the projections i, i, are for lifting
the piece, and thereby the plate c', and the projections j, j, push the said
plate forward, being setso as to begin to act upon the vertical branch c a little
after the projections i, i, have acted upon the horizontal branch of the piece c.
kis a screw for regulating the longitudinal throw; and 1, for regulating
the vertical throw of the plate. In conjunction with the feed motion last
described, I use the following guide for binding hats, which is shewn in eleva-
tion at Fig. 7, and plan Fig. 8, of Sheet 2. a, upper guide plate, which is
straight; b, lower guide plate. These two plates are fixed to a solid piece of
brass c, and the three pieces a, b, c, serve to guide and maintain the ribbon or
binding. d, e, upper and lower hook for guiding the edge of the binding;
these hooks are adjustable by hand by means of elbows at their back ends.
f, nut for fixing the hooks upon the piece c; g, screw passing through a slot
with which all the pieces a, b, c, d, e, are provided, and by which the whole
system is fixed upon the machine; h, screw upon the piece c, and serving to
adjust the whole ribbon guide by means of a nut i and the fixed forked
piece j; k, square nut or washer, by which and the screw the whole apparatus
is guided when moving in a recess made in the platform. The foot pad or
pressure plate, above described, instead of being of the usual kind, may also be
made as shewn at Fig. 9, in side elevation, and Fig. 10, in end elevation
This foot pad consists of a roller or caster m, which is free to turn at the end
of the bar, and whose axis stands at right angles to the line of motion of the

page_text: fabric, the latter being held between this roller and the moveable notched
plate c¹, which has a compound motion, as before described. Said roller may
be used alone for causing the forward motion of the fabric; but for preventing
the retrogressive motion of the fabric, and in order to obtain a better effect, it
will be found more useful to use one or two notched surfaces c¹, c11, that are
stationary by the side of the moveable one c¹, (see Fig. 8, Sheet 2), and then a
flat brass or other spring n is fixed by the side of it, the under surface of said
spring being below the level of the tangent plane of the roller, so that the
fabric which is under said spring is more or less constantly pressed upon
during the whole motion of the notched plate c¹. The above improved foot
pad is applicable to any kind of work, but when used for binding hats it is
arranged as shewn at Figs. 9 & 10, Sheet 2. In this application, the spring n
is made to press upon the edge of the hat, in order to closely lay upon it the
binding as the same emerges from the guide, and prevents the same from
curling or creasing. The roller alone has to do with the progressing motion,
and the rolling friction being much less than the sliding friction, the fabric is
less liable to be indented by the notched plate.
Having thus described the nature of this Invention, and the manner in
which the same is or may be carried into effect, I wish it to be distinctly
understood that I do not claim any of those parts that have been already used
in other sewing machines; but what I claim as particularly novel and distinct
from what has been used before in sewing machines is,-
First, an improved feeding apparatus, for holding and feeding the fabric to
be sewed and regulating the length and lay of the stitches, by means of a
vertically acting plate i (Figs. 1, 3, & 4, Sheet 1), upon which the fabric rests,
and is raised and lowered alternately by a cam or otherwise for cach stitch.
Second, the particular mechanism described with reference to Fig. 6,
Sheet 2, for producing the usual feed motion by means of a notched plate.
Third, the arrangements for taking up the slack of the thread on the down-
ward passage of the needle, as shewn at Figs. 1 and 1ª, 2 and 2ª, Sheet 1.
Fourth, the cam or combination of cams for moving from the back end of
the machine the levers for actuating the needle and shuttle, and taking up the
slack of the needle thread, substantially as shewn on Sheet 1.
Fifth, the use and application of a self-acting apparatus for sewing or
binding hats, or similar articles, substantially as described with reference to
Sheet 2, and applicable to any kind of sewing machine.
Sixth, the different binding gauges or guides, described with reference to

page_text: Seventh, the roller and spring foot pad, substantially as described with
reference to Figs. 9 & 10, Sheet 2.
In witness whereof, I, the said Benjamin Moore, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Fourth day of February, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-six.
BENJAMIN MOORE. (L.s.)