IMPROVEMENTS ON MACHINERY AND APPARATUS FOR EMBROIDERING OR ORNAMENTING CLOTHS, STUFFS, AND OTHER FABRICS
Year: 1829

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, HENRY
Bock, of Ludgate Hill, in the City of London, send greeting.
WHEREAS His present most Excellent Majesty King George the Fourth,
by His Letters Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain bearing date
at Westminster, the Second day of May, in the tenth year of His reign, did,
for Himself, His heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the said Henry
Bock, His special licence, that I, the said Henry, Bock, my executors,
administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Henry Bock, my
executors, administrators, or assigns, should at any time agree with, and no
others, from time to time and at all times during the term of years therein
expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within
England, Wales, and the Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, and also in all His
Majesty's Colonies and Plantations abroad, the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS ON
MACHINERY AND APPARATUS FOR EMBROIDERING OR ORNAMENTING CLOTHS, STUFFS,
AND OTHER FABRICS," communicated to me by a certain Foreigner residing
abroad; in which said Letters Patent there is contained a proviso obliging
me, the said Henry Bock, by an instrument in writing under my hand and
seal, particularly to describe and ascertain the nature of my said Invention,
and in what manner the same is to be performed, and to cause the same to
be enrolled in His said Majesty's High Court of Chancery within six calendar
months next and immediately after the date of the said recited Letters Patent,
as in and by the same, reference being thereunto had, will more fully and at
large appear.

page_text: NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said
Henry Bock, do hereby declare that the nature of my said Invention, and
the manner in which the same is to be performed and carried into effect, is
clearly described and shewn in the Drawings hereto annexed, and the following
description thereof (that is to say):-
Sheet 1 represents a front view or elevation, Sheet 2 a plan, Sheet 3 a
longitudinal section of a machine for embroidering or ornamenting; Sheet 4
an elevation, an end and top view of another form of constructing my
Invention; and Sheet 5 an enlarged view of some detached parts of this last
form of construction, and the letters and figures marked on these several sheets
denote the same parts throughout.
The style of embroidering or ornamenting produced by this machine,
whether in detached or in continuous patterns or figures, is similar to that which
is usually produced by hand with the common sewing needle; but the method
herein described for moving the cloth and giving to the embroidery or ornament
the figure or form of the design may evidently be applied to machines in which
the tambouring needles are used. An embroiderer in the usual way only directs
one needle at a time, but by my Invention one person can direct almost any
number at the same time; the design or figures can be worked with much
greater accuracy and uniformity than in the common way, all the repetitions
of a pattern being produced from one original figure or design, which I call
the governing design, and which, from the arrangement of my machinery, does
not require to be of the same size as the figures to be embroidered or orna-
mented, but may be drawn upon a scale large enough to admit the delineation
of the position of every thread in the most minute piece of embroidery or
ornament. The leading characteristic of my Invention consists in the method
or means I make use of to govern or change the relative positions of the cloth
or fabric to be embroidered or ornamented and the embroidering or ornament-
ing needles, so as to give to the embroidery or ornament the form or figure of
the design.
I now proceed to describe a machine to embroider or ornament in the
sewing needle style. To make the explanation more clear I shall divide the
action of the machine into three movements, and describe in succession the
several parts belonging to each.
Firstly, the movement by which the relative position of the cloth or fabric
to be embroidered or ornamented and needles is varied between the stitches so
to produce the given figure on the required scale.
Secondly, the pushing into and drawing the needles through the cloth. And,
Thirdly, the quitting and taking hold of the needles.

page_text: As
The needles used in this machine are of a particular construction, being pointed
at both ends, and having the eye in the middle, as represented on Sheet 3.
regards the first movement, the cloth to be embroidered or ornamented is stretched
in the frame I, I, I, I, by means of two horizontal rollers marked N, N, see
Sheet 1, round each of which an end of the cloth is wound, by means of worms
and pinions 12, 12, as seen at their respective extremeties, and by which the
position of the cloth is varied in a perpendicular direction at such periods as
the completion of any portion of the embroidering or ornamenting may require.
The frame I, I, I, I, which is counterbalanced by the weight 13, moves freely
in a perpendicular direction, in the guides K, K, K, K, attached to the frame
L, L, L, L, which latter frame moves freely in an horizontal direction on rollers
which rest on the straight edge M, M, thus enabling the frame I, I, I, I, to be
moved in one plane in a perpendicular or horizontal or any intermediate
direction. The pattern or design to be embroidered or ornamented, drawn upon
a scale sufficiently large to admit of the accurate delineation of the number
and position of threads required to fill up each respective portion of the design
as shewn in the flower and leaf at A, is laid down on a separate card or
tablet made of wood or other suitable material, and firmly fixed to the framing.
The design so laid down I call the governing design. At the extremities of the
lines representing the position of the embroidering or ornamenting threads
small holes are punched or indented for the purpose of receiving the point of
the tracer marked B. This tracer is screwed fast upon the arm of an apparatus
attached to the cloth frame which serves to communicate to the latter the
movements of the tracer point in its passages over the surface of the governing
design. When the figure to be embroidered or ornamented is of the same size
as the governing design, a simple arm or bracket screwed fast to the cloth
frame I, I, I, I, at one end, and carrying the tracer in its proper position at the
other, is sufficient to communicate the required motion; but when the
figure to be embroidered or ornamented is required to be of a greater or less
size than the governing design, then I employ an apparatus operating upon
the principle of a pentagraph to communicate the motion of the tracer point
upon such increased or reduced scale to the cloth frame. Such an apparatus
is shewn at D, E, F, Sheet 1, whereby the motion of the tracer B is commu-
nicated to the cloth frame I, I, I, I, at H, by means of the levers and con-
necting bars D, E, F, but modified in a degree proportioned to the relative
lengths of the arms of the levers. The particular form in which this penta-
graphic apparatus is constructed is not important provided it admits of the
cloth frame being suspended or attached to it at such a point or points as will
cause the latter to repeat the movements of the tracer B in its passage over

page_text: the governing design in the proportion requisite for producing the figures upon
the cloth or fabric to be embroidered or ornamented of the required size. The
weight of the apparatus is counterbalanced by the weight G, as shewn in the
Drawing.
The second motion of the machine, or that of pushing the needles into and
drawing them through the cloth, is effected as follows, and will be more
clearly seen by reference to Sheet 2, in which 0 0, 00, represent two similar
carriages moving freely on pullies or wheels marked P P P P, P P P P
which run on accurate and horizontal straight edges Q, Q, Q, Q, Q, Q, Q, Q,
so that the carriages 00, 00, can be advanced towards the cloth or receded
from it at pleasure. Set screws to limit the approach of the carriage towards
the cloth are shewn in Sheet 3 at p, p. To these carriages are attached, as
shewn in the Drawing, any number of pincers, nippers, or as call them, finger
pieces, marked respectively 7, for the purpose of holding the needles which carry
the embroidering or ornamenting thread or other material. On referring to
Sheet 1, it will be seen that the machine there represented has two rows or
sets of finger picces attached to each of the carriages marked 00, 00, but
the number of rows and of finger pieces in each row may be varied as cir-
cumstances require. In Sheet 3 will be seen a side view of the finger piece 4,
which consists of one moving lever 10, which is pressed upwards at its
longest extremity by a spring from beneath, and holds the needle between its
shortest extremity and a fixed bed or surface attached to the angular bar 18*.
From the longer arm of the lever 10 a small wire or chain descends, by means
of which the spring beneath the lever is occasionally overcome and the needle
released or set at liberty, as hereinafter described.
Figure 2, Sheet 3, represents a side view of a finger piece of the full size, to
which is attached an apparatus for the purpose of making eye-holes. When
such are required to be worked in the pattern the warve or pulley 14 is
firmly attached to one extremity of a screw piece 15, the other extremity
of which is formed into a pointed cone, the base of which is of the
same size as the eye-hole to be worked; by revolving the warve 14, the
screw piece with its conical point is advanced or receded in an horizontal
direction, and, supposing each of the finger pieces of the machine to be
constructed with one of these apparatuses, and an endless band passed
successively round the warves, and the carriage to be in the position of
that on the right hand in Sheet 3, it will be seen that the operator,
by giving motion to the band, is enabled to pierce the cloth with each of the
cones. The holes having been thus made, the cones are withdrawn by the band
and warves 14, and the movement of the needles is recommenced. R, R, are

page_text: two shafts on which pullies r, r, r, r, are firmly fixed. To each of the latter
are attached two bands, one connected directly with the backs of the carriages
0 0,0 0, to pull them out, and the other passing half round the carrier
pullics S, S, S, S, to the front of the carriages, for the purpose of drawing
them towards the cloth; by this arrangement a reciprocating motion of the
shafts R, R, will move their respective carriages back and forth on the straight
edges QQQ Q, Q Q Q Q. At the extremities of the shafts R, R, are
the pullies s, s, connected with which are bands similarly arranged to those just
described, but attached to wooden balls T, T. These balls are pulled back-
wards and forwards by hand or otherwise at the points T, T, and give to the
shafts R, R, the reciprocating motion required.
The third motion of the machine, or the quitting and taking hold of the needles,
will be best seen in Sheet 3, where the perpendicular wire proceeding downwards
from the ends of the little lovers 10 of the finger pieces will be seen to connect
with the rods or bars U, U, U, U, also seen in Sheet 1, passing the whole length
and parrallel to the rows of finger pieces. These bars are firmly attached to the
shafts V, V, by short arms marked u, u, u, u, so that by a partial revolution
of the shafts V, V, in the direction of the bent arrows, seen at Sheet 3, the
rods U, U, U, U, are depressed, and the finger pieces opened for the admission
or liberation of the needles. At one extremity of each of the shafts V, V,
are fixed levers marked W, W, which carry small friction rollers at their
longest extremities, and are constructed with cross pieces or catches at their
shortest ends; these friction rollers are acted on by the excentric pieces marked
X, X, which, by elevating the longest arm of the levers W, W, gives the partial
revolution to the shafts V, V, required for the opening of the finger pieces,
as will be most clearly seen in Sheet 3, where the left-hand carriage is repre-
sented receded from the cloth with the lever W in an oblique direction and
the finger pieces containing the needles close, while the right-hand carriage is
represented up to the cloth, with its lever W in an horizontal direction, resting
on its excentric X, and the finger pieces consequently open for the reception or
liberation of the needles. In the position of the latter lever W the catch or
cross piece, seen at its shortest extremity, takes on to one of the stud pieces
marked w, w, screwed to the framing, by means of which the carriage is held
stationary, with the jaws of the finger pieces open and ready to receive the
needles from the opposite finger pieces as soon as the carriage shall advance
and push the needles through the cloth or material to be embroidered or
ornamented: the latter is represented by the perpendicular red line passing
from the rollers N, N. The motion of the excentrics X, X, which require
half a revolution on the centres to which they are attached, is effected by the

page_text: treadles Y, Y, as will be more clearly seen at Sheet 3. These treadles are
connected by bands to the double pulley Z, so that it can be revolved in both
directions by the alternate use of the treadles. The motion of the pulley Z is
carried by bevil wheels to the axis of one of the excentrics; and the two
excentrics being geered together by means of the bands and pullies, z, as
seen in Sheet 3, they are by the action of the treadles alternately placed in
the position represented at Sheet 3.
Figures 4, 4, 4, 4, Sheet 3, represents segments of wood, or other material,
placed on each side of and immediately beneath the point at which each row
of needles pass through the cloth or fabric to be embroidered, and extending
the whole width of the piece. They are covered with cloth, plush, or other
suitable material, for the purpose of preventing the entanglenient of the
threads which rest upon them when slackened by the advance of the needles
towards the cloth, and which are straightened by being drawn over the rough
surface of the plush, as they are in the act of being drawn through the cloth
or fabric to be embroidered or ornamented. In addition to these, templets are
attached to the side of the frame I, I, I, I, for the purpose of stretching the
fabric to. be embroidered or ornamented, and keeping it more uniform in width
during the operation. These templets are placed about the same level as the
rows of needles, and are best seen at 5, 5 in Sheet 1.
Having gone through the three movements of the machine, I shall now
describe the manner in which the operator or workman proceeds to put in
action and effect the embroidering or ornamenting. Having wound the cloth
or material to be embroidered or ornamented on one of the rollers N, an end
of it is attached to the other roller N, by which it is tightened, so as to
present a flat perpendicular sheet of cloth to the action of the needles, as scen
at Sheet 1. A needle containing one or more threads of the requisite tineness
is then placed in each of the finger pieces on one side of the sheet of cloth, as
shown in the left-hand carriage in Sheet 3. The other carriage, with its
finger pieces empty, is then advanced close up to the opposite side of the cloth,
and one of the treadles Y, depressed so as to open the jaws of its finger pieces
which are then in the position shown on the right-hand side of the cloth in
Sheet 3. In this state of the machine, the operator takes his station with his
face immediately opposite the the governing design or patern A, where he had
best be seated on a chair or stool of convenient height, having placed one foot
on each of the treadles Y, Y, and by his left hand placed the tracer B of the
pentagraph arm or lever at that point of the figure or design A, where it is
determined to commence the pattern. He applies his right hand to the
ball T connected with the left-hand carriage, which he moves forward so as to

page_text: run the projecting ends of the needles through the fabric to be embroidered
or ornamented into the jaws of the finger pieces of the carriage on the
opposite side.
As soon as this motion is gone through, the operator shuts the
finger pieces in the right-hand carriage and liberates the needles from the
opposite carriage by pressing down the treadle Y, which reverses the position
of eccentrics X, X. He then seperates his right hand from the ball T, which
he had held during the action of bringing up the left-hand carriage, see
Sheet 8, and takes hold of the ball which is connected with the right-hand.
carriage, which he moves backwards, so as to make the needles recede from
the cloth until the threads are pulled sufficiently tight. At this period the
tracer of the pentographic apparatus, arm, or lever marked B, is moved by the
left hand of the operator to the next position in the governing design where
the needle is to pass through, which motion of the tracer, communicated to the
cloth frame in the manner already described, places the cloth in the proper
position to receive the needle on the return of the right-hand carriage, see
Sheet 3; the right-hand carriage is then advanced so as to run the projecting
ends of the needles again through the cloth into the jaws of the finger pieces
of the opposite carriage, when the position of the eccentricts is reversed, and the
left-hand carriage receded until the threads are again drawn sufficiently tight.
These movements are repeated until the whole of the pattern is complete.
A plan and elevation of another form of my machine for embroidering or
ornamenting is represented in Sheet 4, in which the second and third move-
ments described in the former machine are affected by the motion cf the
treadles Y, Y, and in which an additional or fourth movement is introduced to
tighten the threads after the needles having passed through the cloth. The
manner of supporting or holding the cloth frame is also different, as well as
the apparatus to which the treadles are connected. The cloth frame, as
represented in this form of the machine, is guided at the top in its motion
both in a perpendicular and orizontal direction by rods screwed to the two
upper corners of the corners of the cloth frame and passing through the
orizontal guide slits 16*, 16%, attached to the framing of the machine, and is
guided at the bottom in its orizontal motion by sliding in the forked end of
levers 17, 17, and in its perpendicular motion by resting on the levers, both
of which are firmly fixed to the axis 18*, and moved together. The cloth frame
differs also from the one described in the former machine, by having two
pairs of rollers N, N, on which to stretch separate and distinct pieces of
cloth for the purpose of embroidering or ornamenting more than one piece
at the same time. The carriages 0, 0, 0, 0, which in this form of
the machine move only two or three inches back and forth on their respec-

page_text: tive railroads, as seen at Q, Q, Q, Q, Q, Q, 1, 1, receive their motion from
the treadles Y, Y, through the following apparatus:-The treadles Y, Y,
are connected by bands to the pulley 17, which is firmly connected to a shaft
carrying the spur wheel 18, which geers into a pinion 19, so as to revolve it
one whole revolution in either direction each time the position of the
treadles Y, Y, is reversed. The pinion 19 is firmly attached to the shaft 20,
which extends the whole width of the machine, and carries at both extremities
scroll pieces marked 21. The peculiar construction of these pieces, 21, will be
clearly seen by reference to the figure marked scroll, as seen on an enlarged
scale on Sheet 4; they contain each two concentric grooves of different
diameters marked in pink colour, and connected together by an axcentric
groove tinted blue. Into these grooves project studs from the arms of levers 22,
28, and 24, so that by the revolution of the shaft 20, the stud end of each lever
is moved during some period of the revolution a space equal to the distance
between the inner and outer concentric circles. Attached to the levers 22 and
23, and moving on the same fulcrum, are arms carrying toothed bevil segments
marked 25, taken into bevil wheels marked 26, on perpendicular shafts 27,
which by means of toothed spur segments geering into orizontal racks on both
ends of the carriages 0, 0, 0, 0, communicate to the latter their back and forth
motion. The levers 24, which receive their motion at their stud ends from the
scroll pieces, as has been shewn, are connected at the end of their opposite
arms by perpendicular rods to orizontal, 28, 28, running across the carriages
immediately over the longer arm of the finger pieces, so that by a partial revo-
lution of the shaft caused by the motion of the lever 24, the long arm of each
finger piece is depressed by the action of an excentric fixed upon the shaft over
it instead of by the rods U, U, and perpendicular wires, as described in the
former machine.
It has already been stated that in this form of the machine the carriages
do not move back and forth above two or three inches, their motion
only being required for the purpose of passing the needles through the
cloth and receding them from it far enough to permit, between the cloth and
each needle, the introduction of a hook by which to pull back and tighten the
threads. The parts employed in this action of the machine, which I have called
the fourth motion, are as follows, and will be more clearly seen by reference to
Sheet 5. From each of the two outside pieces of framing 29, 29, as seen in
Sheet 4, which are detached from the centre framing for the purpose of being
placed with facility nearer or further off so as to admit of a greater, or less
backward movement of the thread tightners, small rods marked 30 extend
towards the centre framing, which serve for straight edges or guides on which

page_text: every
the thread tightners traverse back and forth. The thread tightners consist of
bars or rods marked 31, extending across the machines parallel to the
carriages, and carrying at each extremity small pullies on which they
rest, and run on the rods 30. One of these bars is required to each row of
finger pieces; they carry small hooks as shewn at 32, one of which is adjusted
to each finger piece, so that when the latter have drawn the needles with their
embroidering or ornamenting threads through the cloth, and the carriage is
moving backward, the hooks, by the advance of the bar, close over the finger
pieces, and, by a downward and end motion, as herein-after described, introduce
themselves between the cloth and needles and below the thread, and then by an
upward motion raise the threads above the points of the needles, and by a back-
ward movement of the bars 31 pull the threads tight. It will be seen that for
inch which the bars move backwards, two inches of the embroidering or
ornamenting thread is drawn through the cloth in consequence of one end of
the thread being held fast by the needle; by this arrangement a much longer
embroidering or ornamenting thread can be used in the needles, when the
nature of the work permits, than in the former construction. The tightening
bars are moved backwards and forwards by means of bands carried over pullies
(as seen in the elevation) to the hand piece or wooden ball 30%, which being
traversed back and forward in an orizontal direction by hand or otherwise,
moves the bar on one side or other alternately to or from the cloth. The parts
by which the downward or dipping and end motion of the tightening bars and
hooks is produced will be seen drawn on full size on Sheet 5, were Figure 1-
represents a side view, Figure 2 and view, and Figure 3 a plan of the said
machinery. Attached to the centre framing at both sides, and corresponding to
the different rows of finger pieces, are brackets carrying small levers 33,
each centered on a universal point at 34, and receiving at one end the guide
rod 30 corresponding to it, and formerly described as being fixed at the opposite
end to the detached pieces of framework 29. By this arrangement the motions
communicated to the levers 83 will be conveyed to the tightening bars 31,
were these are run up to the ends of the guide rods connected to the levers, as
shewn in Figure 3, Sheet 5. Upon each end of the carriages 0, 0, 0, 0,
which move back and forth upon their respective railroads, close under the
brackets 35, are fixed small inclined plains, having in each a diagonal groove
up and down it, at 36, for the reception of a stud 37, which projects down from
the arm of the small lever 33, and which communicates to that arm an upward
and downward motion as the carriage recedes from the cloth, and at the same
time an inward or outward motion, according to the direction of the diagonals
which must correspond at both ends of each carriage. These diagonals lie in

page_text: the direction to give to the tightening bars 31 attached to each row of finger
pieces the proper end motion to introduce the point of their hooks under the
embroidering or ornamenting threads. The course of the hooks in their down-
ward, endward, and upward motion is represented in dotted lines at Figure 1,
Sheet 5. On the advance of the carriage the stud of the small lever traverses
along the diagonal groove marked 38, which has no inclined plain in it, as it
is only then required to give to the tightening bars an end motion to withdraw
the points of the hooks out of the double of the thread, so as to permit the
opposite bars to draw the thread tight up to the cloth. The is driven or
forced at the extreme points of traverse of the carriages from the one groove
to the other, by springs at the respective extremities of the grooves, as shewn
at Figure 3, Sheet 5.
Having now completed as far as necessary the description of such parts of
this second form of constructing of my embroidering or ornamenting machine
as differ from that first described, I may add that my method of applying the
pentagraphic apparatus, as well as the tracer and governing design to this
second form is the same as has been already described, and that the construc-
tion of many of the parts described differently in the two forms is equally
applicable to either, and may be so applied by competent persons. The manner
of using this second form of construction differs little from the first. The
operator brings up his carriages in the order and alternately to the opposite
sides of the cloth, as described in the mode of operating on the former con-
struction, moving them, however, by the action of the treadles instead of by
his hands. The opening and shutting of the finger pieces in this last form
will be regularly effected at the proper times by the same movement which
moves the carriages. The tracing apparatus is moved at the times formerly
specified, and the cloth to be embroidered or ornamented, or 'pieces of cloth
are stretched in the same manner. The only movement not fully explained
hitherto is that of the tightening bars, which require to be close up to the
cloth on the side at which the needles are about to be drawn through, so that
by the backward movement of the carriage the downward and end motion of
the hooks may be produced when they are in a situation to introduce them-
selves under the threads, so as by the subsequent backward motion of the bar
to draw the threads through the cloth. It will be evident from the description
already given of the application of the pentagraphic apparatus to the cloth
frame in machines embroidering or ornamenting in the sewing needle (still,
that the same apparatus may be employed to move the cloth frame in embroi-
dering machines in which the tambouring needles are employed.
Having now described the various parts and movements of my said Inven-

page_text: tion, together with different methods of working the same, I will here repcat
the leading and essential property of the said machinery for embroidering or
ornamenting as aforesaid, namely, the application of the apparatus described
as aforesaid for tracing upon a separate card or tablett the pattern or design to
be embroidered or ornamented, and for communicating the movement of the
tracer point to the cloth, whereby its position is varied so as to give to the
embroidery or ornament the form or figure of the governing design upon the
tablett on any required scale, the said apparatus operating in effect when the
governing design is drawn on a greater or less scale than the required embroi-
dery or ornament on the cloth, to transmit the movements upon the principle
of the pendergraph.
Now, whereas I do not claim the several parts or portions of the said
machinery for embroidering or ornamenting in the sewing-needle style, sin-
gularly or individually taken, but I do claim the combination thereof as herein
set forth and described for the purpose of embroidering or ornamenting cloth
or other fabrics in the sewing-needle style, and also the use and application of
the pentlegraphic apparatus, for the purpose as herein set forth and described,
of governing the movements of the frame on which the cloths or fabrics to be
embroidered or ornamented are stretched, so as to produce the embroidery or
ornaments of the required forms or figures.
In witness whereof, T, the said Henry Bock, have hereunto set my hand
and seal, this Sixth day of October, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and twenty-nine.
AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the Sixth day of October, in the year
of our Lord 1829, the aforesaid Henry Bock came before our said Lord the
King in His Chancery, and acknowledged the Specification aforesaid, and all
and every thing therein contained and specified, in form above written. And
also the Specification aforesaid was stamped according to the tenor of the
Statute made for that purpose.

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, HENRY
Bock, of Ludgate Hill, in the City of London. send greeting.
WHEREAS His present most Excellent Majesty King George the Fourth,
by His Letters Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain bearing date
at Westminster, the Second day of May, in the tenth year of His reign, did,
for Himself, His heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the said Henry
Bock, His special licence, that I, the said Henry, Bock, my executors,
administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Henry Bock, my
executors, administrators, or assigns, should at any time agree with, and no
others, from time to time and at all times during the term of years therein
expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within
England, Wales, and the Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, and also in all His
Majesty's Colonies and Plantations abroad, the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS ON
MACHINERY AND APPARATUS FOR EMBROIDERING OR ORNAMENTING CLOTHS, STUFFS,
AND OTHER FABRICS," communicated to me by a certain Foreigner residing
abroad; in which said Letters Patent there is contained a proviso obliging
me, the said Henry Bock, by an instrument in writing under my hand and
seal, particularly to describe and ascertain the nature of my said Invention,
and in what manner the same is to be performed, and to cause the same to
be enrolled in His said Majesty's High Court of Chancery within six calendar
months next and immediately after the date of the said recited Letters Patent,
as in and by the same, reference being thereunto had, will more fully and at
large appear.

page_text: NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso. I. the said
Henry Bock. do hereby declare that the nature of my said Invention, and
the manner in which the same is to be performed and carried into effect, is
clearly described and shewn in the Drawings hereto annexed, and the following
description thereof (that is to say):-
Sheet represents a front view or elevation. Sheet 2 a pian, Sheet 3 a
longitudinal section of a machine for embroidering or ornamenting; Sheet 4
an elevation, an end and top view of another form of constructing my
Invention; and Sheet 5 an enlarged view of some detached parts of this last
form of construction, and the letters and figures marked on these several sheets
denote the same parts throughout.
The style of embroidering or ornamenting produced by this machine,
whether in detached or in continuous patterns or figures, is similar to that which
is usually produced by hand with the common sewing needle; but the method
herein described for moving the cloth and giving to the embroidery or ornament
the figure or form of the design may evidently be applied to machines in which
the tambouring needles are used. An embroiderer in the usual way only directs
one needle at a time, but by my Invention one person can direct almost any
number at the same time; the design or figures can be worked with much
greater accuracy and uniformity than in the common way, all the repetitions
of a pattern being produced from one original figure or design, which I call
the governing design, and which, from the arrangement of my machinery, does
not require to be of the same size as the figures to be embroidered or orna-
mented, but may be drawn upon a scale large enough to admit the delineation
of the position of every thread in the most minute piece of embroidery or
The leading characteristic of my Invention consists in the method
or means I make use of to govern or change the relative positions of the cloth
or fabric to be embroidered or ornamented and the embroidering or ornament-
ing needles, so as to give to the embroidery or ornament the form or figure of
the design.
ornament.
I now proceed to describe a machine to embroider or ornament in the
sewing needle style. To make the explanation more clear I shall divide the
action of the machine into three movements, and describe in succession the
several parts belonging to each.
Firstly, the movement by which the relative position of the cloth or fabric
to be embroidered or ornamented and needles is varied between the stitches so
to produce the given figure on the required scale.
Secondly, the pushing into and drawing the needles through the cloth. And,
Thirdly, the quitting and taking hold of the needles.

page_text: The needles used in this machine are of a particular construction, being pointed
at both ends, and having the eye in the middle, as represented on Sheet 3.
As
regards the first movement, the cloth to be embroidered or ornamented is stretched
in the frame I, I, I, I, by means of two horizontal rollers marked N. N, see
5 Sheet 1, round each of which an end of the cloth is wound, by means of worms
and pinions 12. 12, as seen at their respective extremetics, and by which the
position of the cloth is varied in a perpendicular direction at such periods as
the completion of any portion of the embroidering or ornamenting may require.
The frame I, I, I, I, which is counterbalanced by the weight 13, moves freely
in a perpendicular direction, in the guides K, K, K, K, attached to the frame
L, L, L, L, which latter frame moves freely in an horizontal direction on rollers
which rest on the straight edge M. M, thus enabling the frame I, I, I, I, to be
moved in one plane in a perpendicular or horizontal or any intermediate
direction. The pattern or design to be embroidered or ornamented, drawn upon
a scale sufficiently large to admit of the accurate delineation of the number
and position of threads required to fill up each respective portion of the design
as shewn in the flower and leaf at A, is laid down on a separate card or
tablet made of wood or other suitable material, and firmly fixed to the framing.
The design so laid down I call the governing design. At the extremities of the
lines representing the position of the embroidering or ornamenting threads
small holes are punched or indented for the purpose of receiving the point of
the tracer marked B. This tracer is screwed fast upon the arm of an apparatus
attached to the cloth frame which serves to communicate to the latter the
movements of the tracer point in its passages over the surface of the governing
design. When the figure to be embroidered or ornamented is of the same size
as the governing design, a simple arm or bracket screwed fast to the cloth
frame I, I, I, I, at one end, and carrying the tracer in its proper position at the
other, is sufficient to communicate the required motion; but when the
figure to be embroidered or ornamented is required to be of a greater or less
size than the governing design, then I employ an apparatus operating upon
the principle of a pentagraph to communicate the motion of the tracer point
upon
such increased or reduced scale to the cloth frame.
Such an apparatus
is shewn at D, E, F, Sheet 1, whereby the motion of the tracer B is commu-
nicated to the cloth frame I, I, I, I, at H, by means of the levers and con-
necting bars D, E, F, but modified in a degree proportioned to the relative
lengths of the arms of the levers. The particular form in which this penta-
graphic apparatus is constructed is not important provided it admits of the
cloth frame being suspended or attached to it at such a point or points as will
cause the latter to repeat the movements of the tracer B in its passage over

page_text: the governing design in the proportion requisite for producing the figures upon
the cloth or fabric to be embroidered or ornamented of the required size. The
weight of the apparatus is counterbalanced by the weight G, as shewn in the
Drawing.
The second motion of the machine. or that of pushing the needles into and
drawing them through the cloth, is effected as follows, and will be more
clearly seen by reference to Sheet 2, in which OO, O O, represent two similar
carriages moving freely on pullies or wheels marked P P P P, P P P P,
which run on accurate and horizontal straight edges Q, Q, Q, Q, Q, Q, Q, Q,
so that the carriages 0 0, 00, can be advanced towards the cloth or receded
from it at pleasure. Set screws to limit the approach of the carriage towards
the cloth are shewn in Sheet 3 at p, p. To these carriages are attached, as
shewn in the Drawing, any number of pincers, nippers, or as I call them, finger
pieces, marked respectively q, for the purpose of holding the needles which carry
the embroidering or ornamenting thread or other material. On referring to
Sheet 1, it will be seen that the machine there represented has two rows or
sets of finger pieces attached to each of the carriages marked 0 0,0 0, but
the number of rows and of finger pieces in each row may be varied as cir-
cumstances require. In Sheet 3 will be seen a side view of the finger piece q,
which consists of one moving lever 10, which is pressed upwards at its
longest extremity by a spring from beneath, and holds the needle between its
shortest extremity and a fixed bed or surface attached to the angular bar 13*.
From the longer arm of the lever 10 a small wire or chain descends, by means
of which the spring beneath the lever is occasionally overcome and the needle
released or set at liberty, as hereinafter described.
Figure 2, Sheet 3, represents a side view of a finger piece of the full size, to
which is attached an apparatus for the purpose of making eye-holes. When
such are required to be worked in the pattern the warve or pulley 14 is
firmly attached to one extremity of a screw piece 15, the other extremity
of which is formed into a pointed cone, the base of which is of the
same size as the eye-hole to be worked; by revolving the warve 14, the
screw piece with its conical point is advanced or receded in an horizontal
direction, and, supposing each of the finger pieces of the machine to be
constructed with one of these apparatuses, and an endless band passed
successively round the warves, and the carriage to be in the position of
that on the right hand in Sheet 3, it will be seen that the operator,
by giving motion to the band, is enabled to pierce the cloth with each of the
cones. The holes having been thus made, the cones are withdrawn by the band
and warves 14, and the movement of the needles is recommenced. R, R, are

page_text: two shafts on which pullies r. r r. r, are firmly fixed.
To each of the latter
are attached two bands. one connected directly with the backs of the enriages
0 0,0 0, to pull them out, and the other passing half round the carrier
pullies 5, 5, 5, S, to the front of the carriages, for the purpose or drawing
them towards the cloth: by this arrangement a reciprocating motion of the
shafts R, R, will move their respective carriages back and forth on the straight
edges QQQQ, Q Q Q Q. At the extremities of the shafts R. R. are
the pullies s, s, connected with which are bands similarly arranged to those just
described, but attached to wooden balls T, T. These balls are pulled back-
wards and forwards by hand or otherwise at the points T, T, and give to the
shafts R, R, the reciprocating motion required.
The third motion of the machine, or the quitting and taking hold of the needles,
will be best seen in Sheet 3, where the perpendicular wire proceeding downwards
from the ends of the little levers 10 of the finger pieces will be seen to connect
with the rods or bars U, U, U, U, also seen in Sheet 1, passing the whole length
and parrallel to the rows of finger pieces. These bars are firmly attached to the
shafts V, V, by short arms marked u, u, u, u, so that by a partial revolution
of the shafts V, V, in the direction of the bent arrows, seen at Sheet 3, the
rods U, U, U, U, are depressed, and the finger pieces opened for the admission
or liberation of the needles. At one extremity of each of the shafts V, V,
are fixed levers marked W, W, which carry small friction rollers at their
longest extremities, and are constructed with cross pieces or catches at their
shortest ends; these friction rollers are acted on by the excentric pieces marked
X. X, which, by elevating the longest arm of the levers W, W, gives the partial
revolution to the shafts V, V, required for the opening of the finger pieces.
as will be most clearly seen in Sheet 3, where the left-hand carriage is repre-
sented receded from the cloth with the lever W in an oblique direction and
the finger pieces containing the needles close, while the right-hand carriage is
represented up to the cloth, with its lever W in an horizontal direction, resting
on its excentric X, and the finger pieces consequently open for the reception or
liberation of the needles. In the position of the latter lever W the catch or
cross piece, seen at its shortest extremity, takes on to one of the stud pieces
marked w, w, screwed to the framing, by means of which the carriage is held
stationary, with the jaws of the finger pieces open and ready to receive the
needles from the opposite finger pieces as soon as the carriage shall advance
and push the needles through the cloth or material to be embroidered or
ornamented: the latter is represented by the perpendicular red line passing
from the rollers N, N. The motion of the excentrics X, X, which require
half a revolution on the centres to which they are attached, is effected by the

page_text: treadles Y, Y, as will be more clearly seen at Sheet 3. These treadles are
"onnected by bands to the double pnilev Z. so that it can be revolved in both
directions by the alternate use of the treadles. The motion of the pulley Z is
carried by bevil wheels to the axis of one of the excentrics; and the two
excentrics being geered together by means of the bands and pullies.. as
seen in Sheet 3, they are by the action of the treadles alternately placed in
the position represented at Sheet 3.
Figures 4, 4, 4, 4, Sheet 3, represents segments of wood, or other material,
placed on each side of and immediately beneath the point at which each row
of needles pass through the cloth or fabric to be embroidered, and extending
the whole width of the picce. They are covered with cloth, plusb. or other
suitable material, for the purpose of preventing the entanglement of the
threads which rest upon them when slackened by the advance of the needles
towards the cloth, and which are straightened by being drawn over the rough
surface of the plush, as they are in the act of being drawn through the cloth
or fabric to be embroidered or ornamented. In addition to these, templets are
attached to the side of the frame I, I, I, I, for the purpose of stretching the
fabric to be embroidered or ornamented, and keeping it more uniform in width
during the operation. These templets are placed about the same level as the
rows of needles, and are best seen at 5, 5 in Sheet 1.
Having gone through the three movements of the machine, I shall now
describe the manner in which the operator or workman proceeds to put in
action and effect the embroidering or ornamenting. Having wound the cloth
or material to be embroidered or ornamented on one of the rollers N, an end
of it is attached to the other roller N, by which it is tightened. so as to
present a flat perpendicular sheet of cloth to the action of the needles, as seen
at Sheet 1. A needle containing one or more threads of the requisite fineness
is then placed in each of the finger pieces on one side of the sheet of cloth, as
shown in the left-hand carriage in Sheet 3. The other carriage, with its
finger picces empty, is then advanced close up to the opposite side of the cloth,
and one of the treadles Y, depressed so as to open the jaws of its finger pieces
which are then in the position shown on the right-hand side of the cloth in
Sheet 3. In this state of the machine. the operator takes his station with his
face immediately opposite the the governing design or patern A, where he had
best be seated on a chair or stool of convenient height, having placed one foot
on each of the treadles Y, Y, and by his left hand placed the tracer B of the
pentagraph arm or lever at that point of the figure or design A. where it is
determined to commence the pattern. Ife applies his right hand to the
ball T connected with the left-hand carriage, which he moves forward so as to

page_text: run the projecting ends of the needles through the fabric to be embroidered
or ornamented into the jaws of the finger pieces of the carriage on the
opposite side. As soon as this motion is gone through, the operator shuts the
finger pieces in the right-hand carriage and liberates the needles from the
opposite carriage by pressing down the treadle Y. which reverses the position
of eccentrics X, X. He then seperates his right hand from the ball T, which
he had held during the action of bringing up the left-hand carriage, see
Sheet 3, and takes hold of the ball which is connected with the right-hand
carriage, which he moves backwards, so as to make the needles recede from
the cloth until the threads are pulled sufficiently tight. At this period the
tracer of the pentographic apparatus, arm, or lever marked B, is moved by the
left hand of the operator to the next position in the governing design where
the needle is to pass through, which motion of the tracer, communicated to the
cloth frame in the manner already described, places the cloth in the proper
position to receive the needle on the return of the right-hand carriage, see
Sheet 3; the right-hand carriage is then advanced so as to run the projecting
ends of the needles again through the cloth into the jaws of the finger pieces
of the opposite carriage, when the position of the eccentricts is reversed, and the
left-hand carriage receded until the threads are again drawn sufficiently tight.
These movements are repeated until the whole of the pattern is complete.
A plan and elevation of another form of my machine for embroidering or
ornamenting is represented in Sheet +, in which the second and third move-
ments described in the former machine are affected by the motion cf the
treadles Y, Y, and in which an additional or fourth movement is introduced to
tighten the threads after the needles having passed through the cloth. The
manner of supporting or holding the cloth frame is also different, as well as
the apparatus to which the treadles are connected. The cloth frame, as
represented in this form of the machine, is guided at the top in its motion
both in a perpendicular and orizontal direction by rods screwed to the two
upper corners of the corners of the cloth frame and passing through the
orizontal guide slits 16*, 16*, attached to the framing of the machine, and is
guided at the bottom in its orizontal motion by sliding in the forked end of
levers 17, 17, and in its perpendicular motion by resting on the levers, both
of which are firmly fixed to the axis 18*, and moved together. The cloth frame
differs also from the one described in the former machine, by having two
pairs of rollers N, N, on which to stretch separate and distinct pieces of
cloth for the purpose of embroidering or ornamenting more than one piece
at the same time. The carriages 0, 0, 0, 0, which in this form of
the machine move only two or three inches back and forth on their respec-

page_text: SCCT
the s
:
are connected by bands to the pulley 17. which is firmly connected to a shaft
carrying the spur wheel 18, which goers into a pinion 10, so as to revolve it
one whole revolution in der reion each time the position of the
treadles Y, Y, is reversed. The pinion 19 is firmly attached to the shaft 20,
which extends the whole width of the machine, and carries at both extremities
scroll pieces marked 21. The peculiar construction of these pieces, 21, will be
clearly seen by reference to the figure marked scroll, as seen on an enlarged
scale on Sheet 4; they contain each two concentric grooves of different
diameters marked in pink colour. and connected together by an axcentric
groove tinted blue. Into these grooves project studs from the arms of levers 22,
23, and 24, so that by the revolution of the shaft 20, the stud end of each lever
is moved during some period of the revolution a space equal to the distance
between the inner and outer concentric circles. Attached to the levers 22 and
23, and moving on the same fulcrum. are arms carrying toothed bevil segments
marked 25, taken into bevil wheels marked 26, on perpendicular shafts 27,
which by means of toothed spur segments geering into orizontal racks on both
ends of the carriages O, 0, 0, 0, communicate to the latter their back and forth
motion. The levers 24, which receive their motion at their stud ends from the
scroll pieces, as has been shewn, are connected at the end of their opposite
arms by perpendicular rods to orizontal. 28, 28, running across the carriages
immediately over the longer arm of the tinger pieces, so that by a partial revo-
lution of the shaft caused by the motion of the lever 24, the long arm of each
finger piece is depressed by the action or an excentric fixed upon the shaft over
it instead of by the rods U, U, and perpendicular wires, as described in the
former machine.
It has already been stated that in this form of the machine the carriages
do not move back and forth above two or three inches, their motion
only being required for the purpose of passing the needles through the
cloth and receding them from it far enough to permit, between the cloth and
each needle, the introduction of a hook by which to pull back and tighten the
threads. The parts employed in this action of the machine, which I have called
the fourth motion, are as follows, and will be more clearly seen by reference to
Sheet 5. From each of the two outside pieces of framing 29. 29, as seen in
Sheet +, which are detached from the centre framing for the purpose of being
placed with facility nearer or further off so as to admit of a greater or less
backward movement of the thread tightners, small rods markeri 30 extend
towards the centre framing, which serve for straight edges or guides on which

page_text: the thread tightners traverse back and forth. The thread tightners consist of
bars or rods marked 31. extending across the machines parallel to the
carriages, and carrying at each extremity smail puiiies on which they
rest, and run on the rods 30. One of these bars is required to each row of
5 finger pieces; they carry small hooks as shewn at 32, one of which is adjusted
to each finger piece, so that when the latter have drawn the needles with their
embroidering or ornamenting threads through the cloth, and the carriage is
moving backward, the hooks, by the advance of the bar, close over the finger
pieces, and, by a downward and end motion, as herein-after described, introduce
themselves between the cloth and needles and below the thread, and then by an
upward motion raise the threads above the points of the needles, and by a back-
ward movement of the bars 31 pull the threads tight. It will be seen that for
every inch which the bars move backwards, two inches of the embroidering or
ornamenting thread is drawn through the cloth in consequence of one end of
the thread being held fast by the needle; by this arrangement a much longer
embroidering or ornamenting thread can be used in the needles, when the
nature of the work permits, than in the former construction.
The tightening
bars are moved backwards and forwards by means of bands carried over pullies
(as seen in the elevation) to the hand piece or wooden ball 30%, which being
traversed back and forward in an orizontal direction by hand or otherwise,
moves the bar on one side or other alternately to or from the cloth. The parts
by which the downward or dipping and end motion of the tightening bars and
hooks is produced will be seen drawn on full size on Sheet 5, were Figure 1
represents a side view, Figure 2 and view, and Figure 3 a plan of the said
machinery. Attached to the centre framing at both sides. and corresponding to
the different rows of finger pieces, are brackets carrying small levers 33,
each centered on a universal point at 34, and receiving at one end the guide
rod 30 corresponding to it, and formerly described as being fixed at the opposite
end to the detached pieces of framework 29. By this arrangement the motions
communicated to the levers 33 will be conveyed to the tightening bars 31,
were these are run up to the ends of the guide rods connected to the levers, as
shewn in Figure 3, Sheet 5. Upon each end of the carriages 0, 0, 0, 0,
which move back and forth upon their respective railroads, close under the
brackets 35, are fixed small inclined plains, having in each a diagonal groove
up and down it, at 36, for the reception of a stud 37, which projects down from
the arm of the small lever 33, and which communicates to that arm an upward
and downward motion as the carriage recedes from the cloth, and at the same
time an inward or outward motion, according to the direction of the diagonals
which must correspond at both ends of each carriage. These diagonals lie in

page_text: the direction to give to the tightening bars 31 attached to each row or finger
pieces the proper end motion to introduce the point of their hooks under the
embroidering or ornamenting threads. The course of the hooks in their down-
ward, endward, and upward motion is represented in dotted lines at Figure 1,
Sheet 5. On the advance of the carriage the stud of the small lever traverses
along the diagonal groove marked 38. which has no inclined plain in it, as it
is only then required to give to the tightening bars an end motion to withdraw
the points of the hooks out of the double of the thread, so as to permit the
opposite bars to draw the thread tight up to the cloth. The is driven or
forced at the extreme points of traverse of the carriages from the one groove
to the other, by springs at the respective extremities of the grooves, as shewn
at Figure 3, Sheet 5.
Having now completed as far as necessary the description of such parts of
this second form of constructing of my embroidering or ornamenting machine
as differ from that first described, I may add that my method of applying the
pentagraphic apparatus, as well as the tracer and governing design to this
second form is the same as has been already described, and that the construc-
tion of many of the parts described differently in the two forms is equally
applicable to either, and may be so applied by competent persons. The manner
of using this second form of construction differs little from the first. The
operator brings up his carriages in the order and alternately to the opposite
sides of the cloth, as described in the mode of operating on the former con-
struction, moving them, however, by the action of the treadles instead of by
his hands. The opening and shutting of the finger pieces in this last form
will be regularly effected at the proper times by the same movement which
moves the carriages. The tracing apparatus is moved at the times formerly
specified, and the cloth to be embroidered or ornamented, or pieces of cloth
are stretched in the same manner. The only movement not fully explained
hitherto is that of the tightening bars, which require to be close up to the
cloth on the side at which the needles are about to be drawn through, so that
by the backward movement of the carriage the downward and end motion of
the hooks may be produced when they are in a situation to introduce them-
selves under the threads, so as by the subsequent backward motion of the bar
to draw the threads through the cloth. It will be evident from the description
already given of the application of the pentagraphic apparatus to the cloth
frame in machines embroidering or ornamenting in the sewing needle (still,
that the same apparatus may be employed to move the cloth frame in embroi-
dering machines in which the tambouring needles are employed.
Having now described the various parts and movements of my said Inven-

page_text: tion. together with different methods of working the same, I will here repeat
the leading and essential property of the said machinery for embroidering or
ornamenting as atoresaid, namely, the application or the apparatus described
as aforesaid for tracing upon a separate card or tablett the pattern or design to
be embroidered or ornamented, and for communicating the movement of the
tracer point to the cloth, whereby its position is varied so as to give to the
embroidery or ornament the form or figure of the governing design upon the
tablett on any required scale, the said apparatus operating in effect when the
governing design is drawn on a greater or less scale than the required embroi-
dery or ornament on the cloth, to transmit the movements upon the principle
of the pendergraph.
Now, whereas I do not claim the several parts or portions of the said
machinery for embroidering or ornamenting in the sewing-needle style, sin-
gularly or individually taken, but I do claim the combination thereof as hercin
set forth and described for the purpose of embroidering or ornamenting cloth
or other fabrics in the sewing-needle style, and also the use and application of
the pentlegraphic apparatus, for the purpose as herein set forth and described,
of governing the movements of the frame on which the cloths or fabrics to be
embroidered or ornamented are stretched, so as to produce the embroidery or
ornaments of the required forms or figures.
In witness whereof, I, the said Henry Bock, have hereunto set my hand
and seal, this Sixth day of October, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and twenty-nine
Inrolled the Thirty-first day of October, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and twenty-nine.