IMPROVE- MENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF LACE IN TWIST LACE MACHINES
Year: 1868

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Joseph Hume Bertic, of Sherwood Street,
Nottingham, Lace Draughtsman, for the Invention of "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF LACE IN TWIST LACE MACHINES."
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Joseph Hume Bertie
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on
the 2nd November 1868.
I, JOSEPH HUME BERTIE, of Sherwood Street, Nottingham, Lace
Draughtsman, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF LACE IN TWIST LACE MACHINES," to be
as follows:-
This Invention has for its object improvements in the manufacture of
lace in twist lace machines.
In order to obtain a net like the ground of hand-made blond I employ
a complement of threads consisting of one warp thread to each bobbin
thread, and I use four of these threads, that is to say, two warp threads
and two bobbin threads, to produce cach pillar of the ground net; this

page_text: is not in itself new; but according to my Invention in matching the
crosses from pillar to pillar in such net having two bobbin threads and
two warp threads in each pillar I proceed as follows:-To produce
a cross between two adjacent pillars I cause one warp thread in each
pillar to traverse or pass from its pillar to the other pillar, and then each
of these threads continues to work in the pillar to which it so passes for
the length of the side of a mesh; afterwards each of the said warp
threads returns to the first pillar and works with it in the same way, and
so the work goes on. The net thus produced is a cross net half the
gauge of the machine on which it is made.
In net made as above described I produéc finings by causing each
warp thread to work with one bobbin thread, so as to produce a net
with two threads (a warp and a bobbin) in each pillar, and I employ an
extra or gimp thread, which traverses from side to side of the fining.
Also in net made as above described I sometimes produce finings by
causing the warp and bobbin threads to stand alternately and to serve as
the warp of a tabby weaving, the weft of which is formed by back and
front gimps or extra warp threads, the front gimp being taken across the
fining when the carriages are in the front, and the back gimp when the
carriages are in the back.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Joseph Hume Bertie in the Great Scal Patent Office
on the 1st April 1869.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JOSEPH
HUME BERTIE, of Sherwood Street, Nottingham, Lace Draughtsman,
send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Second day of November, in the
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-eight, in the
thirty-second year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and suc-
cessors, give and grant unto me, the said Joseph Hume Bertie, Her
special licence that I, 'the said Joseph Hume Bertic, my 'executors,
administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Joseph
Hume Bertie, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any
time agree with; and no others, from time to time and at all times

page_text: thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might
make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Inven-
tion for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF LACE IN TWIST LACE
MACHINES," upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said
Joseph Hume Bertie, my executors or administrators, by an instrument
in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should
particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention,
and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the
same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar
months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters
Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Joseph Hume Bertic, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same
is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in
and by the following statement thereof, that is to say) :-
―:
This Invention has for its object improvements in the manufacture of
lace in twist lace machines.
In order to obtain a net like the ground of hand-made blond I employ
a complement of threads consisting of one warp thread to each bobbin
thread, and I use four of these threads, that is to say, two warp threads
and two bobbin threads to produce each pillar of the ground net. This
is not in itself new; but according to my Invention in making the crosses
from pillar to pillar in such net having two bobbin threads and two warp
threads in each pillar I proceed as follows:-To produce a cross between
two adjacent pillars I cause one warp thread in each pillar to traverse or
pass from its pillar to the other pillar, and then each of these threads
continues to work in the pillar to which it so passes for the length of the
side of a mesh; afterwards each of the said warp threads returns to the
first pillar and works with it in the same way, and so the work goes on.
The net thus produced is a cross net half the gauge of the machine on
which it is made.
In net made as above described I produce finings by causing each
warp thread to work with one bobbin thread, so as to produce a net
with two threads (a warp and a bobbin) in each pillar, and I employ
an extra or gimp thread, which traverses from side to side of the fining.
Also in net made as above described I sometimes produce finings by
causing the warp and bobbin threads to stand alternately and to serve

page_text: as the warp of a tabby weaving, the weft of which is formed by back
and front gimps or extra warp threads, the front gimp being taken
across the fining when the carriages are in the front, and the back
gimp when the carriages are in the back.
And in order that my said Invention may be most fully understood
and readily carried into effect, I will proceed to describe the manner
in which I prefer to conduct the manufacture.
Four of the warp bars of the machine are employed in the production
of this ground net or lace, and they each carry equally spaced one-
fourth of a complement of warp threads, that is to say, one warp
thread to every fourth bobbin thread.
The Diagram Figure 1 of the annexed Drawings indicates in a
manner which will be clearly understood by the lace manufacturer the
motions which are given to each of these warp bars. The zig-zag lines
represent the courses of the several sets of warp threads, and the number
of the bar which carries each set is written over it, and these numbers
also indicate the position of the warp bars in the machine counting from
front to back. Any extra or ornamental warp threads which the
manufacturer may employ at his discretion may conveniently be placed
in front of and behind the ground warp threads. The straight vertical
lines in the Diagram represent the bobbin or carriage threads, and they
are numbered 1, 2, 3, and 4, in the order in which they occur in the
machine; 1 and 2 represent the bobbin threads, which constantly work
in one pillar; 3 and 4, those in the next pillar; then the bobbin threads
in the following pillar are again marked 1 and 2, because the pillar
which they make is in all respects similar to the first, and on this system
the bobbin threads are numbered throughout the Diagrams.
I have represented the ground warp threads as twisting in one
direction around the two bobbin threads in each pillar, for this being the
simplest method is that which I prefer, but the lace manufacturer will
understand that they may twist opposite ways round these threads and
make plaited pillars, but the way in which the warp threads twist in the
pillars is not important to my Invention, but it is essential that each
pillar should contain two bobbin threads and two ground warp threads,
and that the ground warp threads should produce the crossings by
passing to and fro between two adjacent pillars, and that they should
work in each pillar for the length of a mesh.

page_text: When it is desired to produce a full gauge fining or weaving in the
midst of ground net or lace produced as above described the ground
warp threads are worked in the manner shown by the Diagram,
Figure 2, the upper and lower parts of the Diagram representing the
motions of the threads in fining, and the middle part their motions in
producing the ground net or lace between the finings. One extra or
gimp thread is used in producing this fining in the manner stated on the
Diagram.
When it is desired to produce a fining in the nature of a tabby
weaving the ground warp threads are caused to stand in the manner
indicated by the Diagram Figure 3, the upper and lower parts of the
Diagram representing the positions of the threads in fining, and the
middle part their motions in producing the ground net or lace.
What I claim as my improvements in the manufacture of lace in
twist lace machines is the production, as herein described, of a ground
net or lace (in the midst of which finings may be produced at intervals),
such ground net or lace having two bobbin threads and two warp threads
in cach pillar, the warp threads producing the crosses by passing to and
fro between two adjacent pillars and working in each pillar for the
length of a mesh.
I also claim the production, as herein described, of such a ground net
or lace in combination with finings as described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Joseph Hume Bertic, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, this Thirty-first day of March, in the
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-nine.