CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN MANU- FACTURING OR PRODUCING CERTAIN KINDS OF EMBROIDERED LACE, PARTS OF WHICH IMPROVEMENTS ARE APPLICABLE TO OTHER PURPOSES
Year: 1836

page_text: NUNN'S SPECIFICATION.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, HENRY
WILLIAM NUNN, of Newport, in the Isle of Wight, Lace Manufacturer, send
greeting.
WHEREAS His present most Excellent Majesty King William the Fourth,
by His Letters Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date at
Westminster, the Twenty-first day of April, in the sixth year of His reign, did,
for Himself, His heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the said Henry
William Nunn, His especial license, full power, sole privilege and authority,
that I, the said William Henry Nunn, my exors, admors, and assigns, or such
others as I, the said Henry William Nunn, my exors, adiñors, or assigns,
should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all
times during the term of years therein expressed, should and lawfully might
make, use, exercise, and vend, within England, Wales, and the Town of
Berwick-upon-Tweed, my Invention of "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN MANU-
FACTURING OR PRODUCING CERTAIN KINDS OF EMBROIDERED LACE, PARTS OF WHICH
IMPROVEMENTS ARE APPLICABLE TO OTHER PURPOSES;" in which said Letters
Patent is contained a proviso, that I, the said Henry William Nunn, shall
cause a particular description of the nature of my said Invention, and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be inrolled in His said Majesty's High
Court of Chancery within six calendar months next and immediately after
the date of the said in part recited Letters Patent, as in and by the same,
reference being thereunto had, will more fully and at large appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said
Henry William Nunn, do hereby declare the nature of my said Invention,
and the manner in which the same is to be performed, are fully described and
ascertained in and by the following statement thereof, reference being had to

page_text: the Drawings hereunto annexed, and to the figures and letters marked thereon
that is to say-
My Invention of "Certain Improvements in Manufacturing or Producin
certain Kinds of Embroidered Lace, Part of which Improvements are appli
cable to other Purposes," consists, first, in an improved method or methods o
producing the third part of my Invention for which Letters Patent wer
granted to me by His present Majesty, on the Third day of April, in the fift
year of His reign, that is to say, "the manufacture of an improved imitation
of Valenciennes lace, having the ornamental parts produced simultaneousl
with the lace net made by bobbin net machinery, in place of having the orna
mental parts applied by the needle after the groundwork of net has been
produced by machinery, and which is described in the Specification enrolled by
me to the said Patent. The chief points in which this part of my presen
Invention is an improvement, is in the method of producing the ornamenta
edge of such imitation Valenciennes lace on the purled side, and in producing
little ornamental parts to those before described in my said former Specification
by means of one guide bar and one shog wheel in lieu of two, with certain-other
points, which will be hereafter shewn or explained, whereby greater diversity
of pattern and a superior manufacture may be produced, with less complication
of parts.
In order more fully to shew my means of carrying my Invention into effect,
I have annexed a pattern, Figure 1, of the fabric produced by the means here-
after described. The machine whereby this pattern was produced is that
modification of bobbin net machinery called traverse warp, and an eleven point
machine, making thirteen hole breadths; such breadths are laced together, and
the right-hand edge of each breadth, which is the footing edge, taped by the
ordinary means of a guide or spotting bar affixed to the upper fork bar, the
comb bars shog in order that the carriage threads may twist round the warp
threads, consequently the stump or divider bar does not shog. The lacing
thread is Number 30, and the bobbin on which such Number 30 is warped has
sufficient weight on it that the lacing threads shall draw out into a purl the
left-hand outside carriage thread of each breadth, the spring of which carriage
must have less pressure than usual on its bobbin. The diagonal threads of the
net are of Number 110; the longitudinal No. 180. The point bar leads have
twenty-two points in the inch of Number 5 points, and have bolt stretchers.
The shog wheel (3), Figures 2 and 3, has its ratchet e, of twelve teeth, actuated
by a clawker f one tooth at every opening of the front comb bar, a guide bar g,
Figure 9, sliding in grooves in the arms h, and having a guide j to each breadth,
is borne by a spring against the wheel (3); through each of such guides is a

page_text: thread of No. one hundred and forty from a bobbin k, and each guide is set so
as its thread shall range exactly opposite the fifth warp thread of each breadth,
counting from the left hand, the bar g bearing on Figure 3 at 1, and the
carriages being at the back of the warp threads, the last course being that in
which the joining bar worked, and the front points took down the bar 9, and
its guides being actuated at every passing and repassing of the carriages by the
wheel (3), and the points taking down after every such actuating of the bar and
guides, the pattern produced or woven would be a continuous tape, like a*;
but in order to assimilate such tape to the edge of Valenciennes lace, the bobbin
k, from which the guide threads proceed, is constructed with a broad warve of
one inch wide, and by means of the cam, Figure 6, which has a ratchet of six-
teen teeth (see also Figure 2), actuated by a clawker on the joining bar, the
lever is made to cause the lever to press with considerable force on the
inch warve during three consecutive half meshes a, Figure 1, of each eight
meshes, whereby only a very small portion of thread can be drawn off from k
during such pressure, and the ornamental edge becomes contracted, as shewn
by the pattern a, Figure 1.
like g,
In order to produce the ornaments in the groundwork of the lace, Figure 1,
there is on the right-hand standard, Figure 9, an arm m, having staples, in
which the bolt n slides; on which bolt is fixed an axle x, on which Figure 4
with and by its ratchet of twenty-four teeth, actuated in like manner to e,
revolves. The bolt n has a stud piece o on its front side, which stud piece is
borne by a spring against the cam 5, which cam has a ratchet of sixteen teeth,
actuated by a clawker o of the joining bar one tooth at a time. A bar P,
but having two guides q to each breadth, is actuated by Figure 4; such guides
have one Number 140 thread in each, proceeding from a bobbin r, and set so
as their threads shall range one with the seventh and the other with the fifteenth
warp threads of each breadth, counting from the right hand; the bar p bearing
by a spring against Figure 4 at 1, and the stud of the bolt n against the cam,
Figure 5, at 1. The use of the cam (5) is to shog the bolt with its wheel after
each revolution of the wheel (4), whereby the pattern in the groundwork of
Figure 1 is produced four half meshes, and diagonally to the left of the one
last produced; and when such wheel 4 has again completed its revolution, the
wheel (4) and bolt n is permitted by the cam (5) to return to its first position;
thus the inconvenience and expense of large wheels having duplicate indenta-
tions is avoided. The lace is afterwards to be about half bleached, to resemble
the color of Valenciennes, and soft dressed, and the connecting threads of
the ornaments in the groundwork cut off. Now, I have shewn for clearness
by Figures 3, (4), the kind of shog wheels which lace mechanics well under-

page_text: stood, and because the shogs can be better scen; but what I use in lieu of such
wheels is a screw wheel, Figure 7, having screws in the periphery of a barrel,
by which wheel the shogs are adjusted or varied, by merely screwing in or
out such screws; but as such wheel would not shew the necessary shogs and
indentations so well, I have preferred shewing them on that description of
wheel mechanics generally are acquainted with. Now, although I have shewn
a method by which one thread and one guide are used for the contracting the
tape edge to produce an edge to lace in imitation to Valenciennes lace, it is not
necessary the tape edge should be that precise pattern here shewn, as the
guide may shog over a greater or less number of threads, and this method
of contracting the edge at intervals may be applied thereto or to ordinary
tapes, and produce like contractions at intervals, only in such last case it will
be desirable to make the inner tape thread or threads, where more than two
are used, of a coarser number than the outsides.
Now I have shewn the method of producing imitation Valenciennes of
common bobbin net, but other nets may be in like manner ornamented, only
that regard must be had to the number of twists in the pillars on the sides of
the meshes; for instance, if there are five half twists in the pillars, there will
require a ratchet and shog wheel of ten teeth and ten indentations in lieu of
the one with twelve, and which wheels of ten teeth must revolve once in one
mesh or hole; and in like manner the wheel (4) and its ratchet will have to be
varied to forty teeth and shogs to produce a like pattern in the groundwork,
and at like distance as Figure 1, but Fig. 5 & its ratchet will remain the
same; all this will be easily understood by lace mechanics. I have not shewn
such parts of the machine as are well known and unnecessary to illustrate
the relative position of the parts employed in ornamenting the lace net; and
I would remark, that although I have shewn a specific pattern, and stated
definite kinds of thread to be used, yet such apparatus as is herein described
is capable of producing a diversity of patterns by varying the indentations on
the shog wheel (4), and the number of them and the teeth on the ratchet,
and different numbers of thread may be used; but those I have stated I believe
the best, and the pattern, Figure 1, I have shewn the best I have yet produced.
The mode in which I actuate the ratchets e, and of wheel (4), is by the levers
f; at each end of the front comb bar, a catch 9* working on an axle about
its centre, when the front comb is put up slips past the end of the lever f*,
and when the comb bar is brought back, the catch drawing back such levers,
will by their clawkers actuate the ratchets one tooth, and the catch slips off at
the end of the lever f* at the end of the comb bar motion, and the lever by
its spring is then returned to its position, so that its clawker shall pass beyond

page_text: the next tooth of the ratchet; but although I use this method, I am of opinion
that method described in the Specification of a Patent granted to myself,.
George Mowbray, and Richard Alabone, for the purpose of actuating the.
series of wheels M, O, is preferable, as less liable for the wheels to get wrong;
but the various methods of actuating wheels by an oscillating or front comb.
bar are familiar to mechanics engaged in lace machinery.
Having thus described the first part of my Invention, I will proceed to.
describe the second part thereof. Figure 11 is a pattern of the embroidered
lace as taken from the work roller of the machine; Figure 11*, the same
when finished, as hereafter directed; Figure 12 is a transverse section, and
Figure 13, a front view of the modification of machinery I use for producing
the pattern, Figure 11; Figure 12* is a like modification but with a different.
formed carriage and bolt bar. Note.-I have omitted shewing some of tho,
guides in Figure 13, and other parts in Figure 12, 12*, and 18, that are
duplicates of those shewn, and also obviously known parts, they will be evident
to any
lace mechanic; they must have been drawn one over the other or others,.
and have produced great complexity of drawing; but the construction of the
guides are shewn full size at D to I, and a bird's-eye view of their relative
positions given at Figure 14. a is the bottom tier of bobbins and carriages of,
a transverse warp machine, twelve to the inch; d are guides, equal in number
to the carriages, and twelve in the inch, which guides are ranged in a row the.
entire length of the tier of carriages, and in lieu of being cast in leads, I
prefer soldering in wires, and screwing upon a bar as d, which bar may be
like the stump bar of an ordinary traverse warp, and shogs one gait; e, f,
are round rods or bars, each having six guides in the inch; g, h, are like bars,.
each having three guides in the inch; i is a bar having one guide to every.
five in the bar e; all which guides are fixed in their respective bars by sawing
a niche, and soldering one end of such guide therein, except the guides of f
and d, which are soldered in wires, and the former fixed in the bar f, and the
latter screwed on the bar d; and all the other guides are soldered in their
respective bars at equal distances from each other, according to the number.
herein-before directed to be put in the inch; and such guides extend along.
their respective bars in a straight line the same length as the tier of carriages;
and parts of which bars and guides, both transverse and front views, are
shewn full size at D, E, F, G, H, I. All the guides are to be set in their
respective bars, that when each bar bears by its bolt against its wheel of the,
series at 1, see Figure 15 to 19, such guides shall stand in the relative
positions with the carriages and each other as indicated by Figure 14.
Note. I find it best, in order to adjust the relative position of the guides, to

page_text: have square bolts, as j**, against one end of each of which a bar is to bear,
and the other end of each bolt is to bear against the shog wheel that actuates
such bar. Note. The bars d, e, f, g, h, i, must be supported about every two
feet, see I; and some of the bars may require to have two guides soldered into
one double niche, and one of the guides bent where the support is to be, as
G*, to allow the bars to be shogged. ; is a series of six shog and one ratchet
wheel, for the purpose of shogging the bars d, e, f, g, h, and which wheels,
with their ratchet, are shown full size from Figures 15 to 19, and are all
bolted together, so that the parts of each marked 1 shall be exactly over right
each other. k is a shog wheel and ratchet, but which is only used to shog the
bar i, in case there should be any inaccuracy in the setting up of the machine
which requires to be counteracted; but as the threads of i are never twisted
around such threads, but in the case mentioned are not shogged, the second
shog wheel of series j has no bar to actuate, but is there in case an additional
bar should be required in varying the pattern. Note.-Each bar is borne by
a spiral spring against its bolt jxx, for its shog wheel to actuate it. l, p, are
beams, and q, bobbins, upon which are warped blond silk, like such as is used
for the groundwork of French blond, but I prefer it harder twisted, and that
on q, the stoutest size. m is a beam, upon which is warped twelve dram China
cord; n, o, are beams upon which are warped fine blond silk and like China
cord, that is to say, for pattern, Figure 11, every fifth thread being fine silk,
commencing at the third thread of o, and the fifth of n, counting from the
left hand; the rest are China cord. Note.-I prefer the beams being in two
lengths, see o, p, Figure 13, as being less liable to twist or get out of truth,
and of course such two beams o or p are only to have as many threads
warped on them as there are guides in the respective bars into which such
SHK is to be threaded. The guides of bar e are to be threaded from beam
and, such threads fastened down to the work roller in the usual way; the
carriages are then to be passed and repassed, working the pins over, after
each movement of the carriages, and interlaying a thread by hand alternately
at the back and front of the threads of e, and always between them and the
carriage threads, until they are all straight down to the roller, when any
guides of that are not set in their exact position must be set, as they can
hardly be seen when all the threads are down, which position relatively with
the carriages will be seen by Figure 14, the bars bearing on series j at 1, and
which method I pursue with each bar and its threads until all the threads are
got down, which will much facilitate what is termed getting a start. The guides
of bar g are to be threaded from beam o; the guides of bar h from beam n,
observing to thread the fine and China silk in the guides of g and h in the
P.

page_text: order directed to be warped. Thread the guides of bar from beam m,
the guides d from bobbin q, the guides of ƒ from beam 1, all one thread
in each guide. The point bars o* are like the point bars in common use
in traverse warp bobbin net machines, which point bars I prefer, as they
rake from the guides; a stretcher 1, acting upon a fixed bolt of the back
points, is attached to the lever 2 by a pin joint, which lever has its fulcrum
at 3, and is connected by the link 4 to the tie bar 5 of the back comb bar,
which tie bar actuates the stretcher at every down motion of such bar.
One stretcher is found to be sufficient for a six-quarter machine; the points
do not fall on one another, being prevented by two pieces of iron, as Figure 20,
which pieces fall upon one another alternately; this produces better work and
preserves the additional points from injury. The point bar leads have twelve
points in the inch, and the point bar arms shog on their axles 6 by inclines
at q*, the back points to the left and the front points to the right about half
a gait, or one twenty-fourth part of an inch each; but the general rule for
this is that there shall be a carriage and warp thread that twist with each
other in every space between the points when the points are in their place
of rest over the work bar, and which points are then to be immediately over
right each other, and not as in making bobbin net, one set of points over the
spaces between the others. r is an additional point bar working on centres in
arms *, which arms also work on axles, and which point bar has six points
in the inch, and is actuated every fourth course by a stud on the ratchet of j,
one of which studs acts upon a levers by pressing in front of its upper end,
and its lower end, which is borne by a spring against the swing rod t, being
withdrawn, the rod t falls against the bar v, when the front points to whose
arm t is attached quit the lace, when the end of t passing between v and the
tail piece u of the additional point bar arm when the front points are put up,
the additional points are thereby withdrawn from the purls they last retained;
and when t passes above the tailpiece of u, the points of the additional point
bar rise above the back points by the inclination upwards they receive by the
small weight w, and re-enter by the weight x; and each of such additional
points are set to enter between the threads of d, so as one thread of each
bar f, e, shall be on the right-hand side of each additional point, and the 2
threads of d and the carriage threads that twist therewith, and in which
threads the 2 threads of f, e, are interlaid, lie on the left-hand side of such
additional point. The action of t upon the tailpiece u is that commonly
known in the lace trade by a caster back action. Now, the course to be
worked is this:-The threads being all straight down to the roller, and the
carriages brought into the front bolts, the series of shog wheels are to be

page_text: set so as each bar shall bear by its bolt against its respective wheel at 1,
after the back points are put over the threads and carriages, should and must
then stand in the relative positions with each other as shewn by Figure 14.
The carriages are now passed into the back bolts, the front points let out, and
as they ascend they or the comb bars actuate the series of wheels j and k one
tooth, or a twenty-fourth part, when the relative position of the threads and
carriages will be as Figure 14*; the front points descend, taking down the.
interlaid threads of e. The carriages are repassed to the front bar when the
back points are let out, and as they ascend the series of wheels ; are again
actuated, when the relative position of the carriages and threads will be as
Figure 14**, and the back points descending, take down the interlaid threads
off. These courses are repeated continuously, and the threads of the various
bars will be shogged by the wheels, Fig. 15 to 19; the purl bar is withdrawn,
and re-enters as directed at every fourth course, when the carriages are in the.
back bar and the front points up, as shewn in Figure 12, and when the lever
s is actuated by one of the six studs of the ratchet of series j. The ratchet of
the series j, and also k, if used, are actuated in the manner described of series
M, O, in the Specification of a Patent granted to myself, George Mowbray,,
and Richard Alebone, on the Twenty-seventh day of February, One thousand
eight hundred and thirty-three, or by the method shewn in the first part of
this Specification, but I prefer the former, being the most certain. After the
fabric, which is made clean, is produced, and taken from the work roller, the
purls will appear straight from end to end of the fabric, as Figure 11, in order
to obviate which, and change the holes of the fabric from parallelograms to
hexagons, I use a table, four feet wide and eight or nine long, covered with
ironing baize, at one end of which table is a row of points like those of a
dressing frame, and there is a like row of points in a moveable bar of wood,
upon each of which row of points a portion of the fabric, commencing at one
end, is affixed by it opposite selvages; the moveable bar is then extended from
the fixed one, so as and untill the holes are formed into hexagons. A piece
of calico large enough to cover the portion of lace on the table, and previously
dipped in starch or gum water and is wrung, laid on the fabric, and by the
slight pressure of a roller, but depending on the stiffness required, a small
portion of starch or gum water, imparted is to the surface of the fabric which
is uppermost; it is then ironed, and afterwards parted into strips as desired.
Now, I have stated a definite number of carriages in the inch, in order to
give the relative number of points, guides, &c., in the inch in each respective
bar, and which number of carriages per inch is as beneficial as any for the
intended purpose; but if it be desired to produce the purls nearer together

page_text: narrower than can be effected by the above-mentioned guage of the
achinery, but which will produce them very fine and close if required, a
greater number of carriages and guides may be in the inch, but in like
relative quantities, and vice versâ, and to avoid experiments, I have stated
definite kinds and sizes of silk, but such sizes may be varied if desired. And
further, by using the material of which thread or cotton lace is made, such
fabric may be made as an embroidered thread lace. And such like machinery
is likewise applicable in like manner to the producing of fringes for furniture,
dresses, &c., by making the machine of a coarser guage, provided such fringe
requires to be much coarser and stouter than blond or lace; and by using
cotton, silk, or worsted or thread, or mixtures of the same, either plain or of
various colours, all which will be well understood by any ordinary skilful
lace mechanic, such machine may be applied to such other purposes. And
I would remark, that although I have shewn one particular pattern, and which
is to my belief the best I have yet produced, yet the same mechanism, with
a variation of the position of the indentations of the shog wheels, Figures 16
and 17, and reducing or increasing the number of shogs round the series of
wheels j, is capable of producing a variety of patterns by connecting the
purls at different parts, as shewn by patterns Figures 11***. Now, I directed
that every fifth thread on the beams n, o, should be of fine silk, such fine silk, if
withdrawn, will divide the fabric into strips the width of the pattern Figure 11;
if strips of a greater or less number of holes in width are required, then the
number and position of such fine threads will be varied; for instance, if it be
desired to divide the fabric into strips of one hole wide, that is to say, com-
posed of two purls, then all the beam n should be warped with fine silk, and o
with all twelve dram China. I have also shewn only one guide in the bar i to
each ten carriages, but if other widths of strips than pattern 11 are to be
produced, and it be desired to have the cord silk down the footing edge, then
more guides must be fixed in such bar, and such guides threaded with China
cord, but if it be constructed with as many guides as the bar e, and such
guides threaded, the fabric may then be made for one-hole strips, having a
cord silk to each foot. Now, the whole fabric may be made in one piece,
without any footing threads, and all China cord on beams n, o, and the China
cord drawn where required, in which case the bar i, beam m, and wheel h
would not be required, also the strips may be laced together in the ordinary
way of a lacing bar, or not laced at all; but such methods are not so beneficial
as the one I have pointed out, particularly as by such approved method a
variation of the width of the strip may be produced with a footing edge with
comparatively little hindrance, the value of which is too well known in such

page_text: a fickle trade as the fancy lace trade. Now, purls of different construc
may be produced and combined with each other in the manner herein descrit
and produce a like fabric of embroidered lace; but the description of purl.
have described is, I believe, as good or the best that can be produced by
machinery; I therefore do not confine myself to this precise construction of
purl, and I would remark that, in the Specification of a Patent, dated the
Seventh day of March, One thousand eight hundred and thirty-four, I did
describe and claim the producing by bobbin net machinery one or more purls
combined, by lacing or interlaid threads, with each breadth of bobbin net,
either of silk or cotton, in the process of manufacturing embroidered lace
resembling blond, and thread lace produced on the pillow, having an open
head, by the purls standing wholly or at intervals from the groundwork of
the lace and from each other when two or more purls are used, as was fully
described in the said Specification, and of which lace I have manufactured a
quantity. My present Invention relates to the production of a fabric of com-
bined purls independent of net lace.
The third part of my Invention consists in producing embroidered lace,
called neige, having a thread of silk in the form of scollopes or semicircles
(as Figure 31) over the ornamented head of such lace, and the method of
producing which thread may, in like manner, be so applied to ornament the
edge of plain or ornamental lace net produced on bobbin net machines.
On the Twenty-seventh day of February, One thousand eight hundred and
thirty-three, a Patent was granted to myself, George Mowbray, and Richard
Alabone, for producing neige by certain machinery, and to which a Speci-
fication was duly enrolled; since which period, by certain slight modifications
of the machinery and means therein described and shewn, and to which I now
refer, such neige is now produced with one row of lace net meshes, in lieu of
a greater number, thereby producing it more economically, and I have there-
fore shewn, by Figures 27, 28, 29, the modification of bars and series of
wheels, and by Figure 21 to 26, the cut of such wheels I use to produce the
pattern, Figure 31. Figure 27 shews sufficient guides and carriages to pro-
duce two breadths of neige with the scollop thread, which thread is introduced
or added by the bar 26, and Figure 30 shews the relative position of all the
guide threads of two breadths when each bar 21 to 26 bears on its shog
wheel at No. 1, the carriages being in the front bar, and all such shog wheels
are bolted together, so that the numbers 1 to 10 on the wheels shall be exactly
over right each other, whereby each bar will be properly actuated. The
means of actuating the ratchet of ten teeth is the same as that described in
respect to the ratchets of series M, O, in the said last-mentioned Specification,

page_text: and also the same course is to be worked, videlicet, the points taking down
after every actuating of the carriages and shogs wheels, and such carriages
not shogging, therefore it will be easily seen how such modification is carried
into effect by reference to that Specification, and the Drawings & explanation
here given, as, in lieu of the series of guide bars there shewn and series of
shog wheels M, O, the ratchet wheel with ten teeth and the series of shog
wheels and bars here shewn, being substituted in the present instance; and
there must be a small wheel on the right-hand end of the footing edge bar
here shewn to shog it one gait to the right when the carriages are in the back
bar, twice in a revolution of the ratchet of ten teeth, observing that the next
course, after each shogging, the footing edge bar must be shogged back. Now,
in order to produce the scollop thread of Figure 31 at the edge of the neige,
the bar (26) has through each of its guides a twelve dram China cord coming
from an ordinary beam, and when the series of wheels in Figure 27 have
revolved until the parts marked Number 10 have arrived at the end of their
bars, the carriage threads will have already commenced twisting round-the
warp threads of bar (23), and the bar (26) will, when the carriages are in the
back bar, shogs its threads over two carriages of each breadth, where they
remain two courses, and until the carriages have returned to the back bar,
and as the carriages still continue to twist round the warp threads of (23), the
second carriage from the right hand of each breadth will take a twist round
the first right-hand warp thread, and the scollop thread be fixed in the edge
of the neige by such twists (between the heads or flowers). Now, it is neces-
sary to adopt some means more certain than having a very little weight on
the beam which supplies the scolloping thread, to allow the scollop thread to
draw out to make them all of a regular sized scollop. The means I adopt is
to use the additional point bar described in said former Specification, such
additional points not being used for drawing out the fan edge or head, as
described in that Specification; I therefore use the additional point bar in
manner following:-The scolloping thread returns to its position between the
breadths at 2 of the wheel, Figure 26; but the additional points cannot take
it until that part of the wheels marked (4) arrive at the end of the bars, at
which time, by the same means as is described in this Specification for actuating
this additional point bar in the process of producing purls, such point bar is
actuated, or it may be by the means described in the Specification of my
Patent herein last referred to. But note. Such purl bar must only be so
actuated once in every revolution of Figure 26, and always at 4. Now, it
will be evident that the same means of laying or producing a scollop edge or
head to neige is applicable to producing to narrow lace net, whether of cotton

page_text: or silk, a like edge; and although I have directed a particular size silk to be
used, and have shown a certain size scollop, I do not confine myself thereto, or
to silk, as variations may be made without departing from my Invention.
I claim, first, the producing by bobbin net machinery the ornamented edge,
in imitation of the purled head or edge of Valenceinnes lace, by retarding the
delivery of the ornamented thread or threads at intervals, and thereby con-
tracting such head or edge at intervals, as above described; and also the
producing the ornaments on the body of the groundwork of imitation of
Valenceinnes lace by means of one guide and one spotting bar, as an improve-
ment of my former Patent, dated Third of April, One thousand eight hundred
and thirty-five, where two guides and bars are used for that purpose.
Secondly, I claim the producing blond edgings (uncombined with lace net),
being two or more purls connected, by means of threads; and I claim the
producing a fabric of blond lace, of any ordinary desired width, being con-
stituted of purls combined in like manner by means of threads; and I claim
the method or machine herein described for producing the above-mentioned
blond and thread lace, and also fringes of cotton, silk, and other fibrous threads,
as above described.
And, thirdly, I claim the producing neige with scollops, as above described,
and also lace net produced in bobbin net machines having a scollop edge, such
as is shewn and described at Figure 31.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Henry Nunn, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, the Twenty-first day of October, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and thirty-six.