IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ELASTIC KNITTED OR LOOPED FABRICS
Year: 1865

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Robert Barlow Cooley, of Northampton, in the
County of Northampton, Hat Manufacturer, for the Invention of
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ELASTIC KNITTED OR LOOPED
FABRICS"
Sealed the 3rd November 1865, and dated the 9th May 1865.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Robert Barlow Cooley at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
9th May 1865.
I, ROBERT BARLOW COOLEY, of Northampton, in the County of Northampton,
Hat Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ELASTIC KNITTED OR LOOPED FABRICS,"
to be as follows:-
This Invention relates, first, to improvements in the manfacture of knitted
or looped fabrics made on circular frames or machines, whereby tubular knitted
fabrics of a novel and highly elastic character are manufactured, suitable for a
variety of useful purposes. For this purpose I introduce an additional thread
or threads of india-rubber into tubular knitted fabrics as they are made on
circular knitting machines, and I prefer to introduce such india-rubber
threads in a similar manner to that in which non-elastic threads were
introduced into tubular knitted fabrics, as described in the Specification of
a Patent granted to me, dated February 17th, 1857, No. 468, the object of
this part of my improvements being to impart increased elasticity to
tubular knitted fabrics so manufactured.
Another part of my improvements consists in introducing two or more
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page_text: additional threads into tubular knitted fabrics of this character, one or more
of such threads being made of india-rubber, and the others of cotton, silk,
wool, or other non-elastic materials, either plain or colored, by which tubular
elastic fabrics of a very novel and useful character may be produced. The
additional threads may be introduced in this manner into tubular elastic
fabrics between each or every other "course" of looped work made on the
needles, or in any other order, and such threads may be laid in between or
around the needles alternately (or in any other desired order), each successive
additional thread being caused to pass around the opposite side of the needle
to that of the preceding additional thread, and it is desirable that the number
of needles contained in the circle should be odd in place of even, by which the
appearance of straight lines in the tubular fabrics so manufactured is avoided,
or the number of additional threads employed may be odd in place of even, in
order to produce a similar result. By this means plain terry cut or plush
pile tubular clastic kitted fabrics may be manufactured. In like manner
additional threads of india-rubber, or part of india-rubber and part of non-
elastic threads, may be introduced into knitted fabrics made on straight
frames or into looped fabrics made in "warp frames" or machines, by laying
such threads between or partly around the needles between each successive
course, or otherwise, of looped work made on such needles. For some
purposes the additional india-rubber threads employed according to my
Invention may have a non-elastic thread combined therewith by winding the
same spirally around such india-rubber thread.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Robert Barlow Cooley in the Great Seal Patent Office on
the 9th November 1865.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, ROBERT
BARLOW COOLEY, of Northampton, in the County of Northampton, Hat
Manufacturer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Ninth day of May, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and sixty-five, in the twenty-eight year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the
said Robert Barlow Cooley, Her special licence that I, the said Robert
Barlow Cooley, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as
I, the said Robert Barlow Cooley, my executors, administrators, and assigns,
should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at

page_text: all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully
might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention
for IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ELASTIC KNITTED OR LOOPED
FABRICS," upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said Robert Barlow
Cooley, my executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under
my, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and
ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was
to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent
Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of
the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Robert Barlow Cooley, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is
to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement thereof, that is to say:-
This Invention relates, first, to improvements in the manufacture of elastic
knitted or looped fabrics made on circular frames or machines, whereby
tubular knitted fabrics of a novel and highly-elastic character are manu-
factured, suitable for a variety of useful purposes. For this purpose I
introduce an additional thread (or threads) of india-rubber into tubular
knitted fabrics as they are made on circular knitting machines, and I prefer
to introduce such india-rubber threads in a similar manner to that in which
non-elastic threads were introduced into tubular knitted fabrics, as described
in the Specification of a Patent granted to me, dated February 17th, 1857,
(No. 468), the object of this part of my improvements being to impart
increased elasticity to tubular knitted fabrics so manufactured.
In the Specification of the Patent above referred to a mode of introducing
a non-elastic thread into knitted fabrics made on circular frames was fully
described and shewn by a Drawing attached thereto, and as the method
which I prefer to employ of introducing an india-rubber thread is very
similar, it will only be necessary for me to describe the manner in which the
india-rubber thread is arranged and dealt with in carrying out this part of my
Invention. For this purpose the india-rubber thread (by preference vulcanized
or rendered permanently elastic, as is well understood) is wound upon a
bobbin a, by preference without any extension of its length. The bobbin a is
mounted upon a fixed support, as shewn in the Drawing hereunto annexed,
which represents a section of so much of a circular knitting machine as will
enable me to describe this part of my improvements. Upon one end of the
bobbin a tension weight is hung, which regulates the extent to which the

page_text: india-rubber thread is distended or elongated as it is drawn off the bobbin
and before it is laid between the needles. The india-rubber thread in its
passage from the bobbin a to the needles passes through or over the guide c
and over a piece of flannel or other fabric saturated with oil from the can or
vessel d, carried by the support d', as shewn, in order to slightly oil the surface
of the india-rubber thread to cause it to slip more readily along the stems and
over the heads of the needles when the work is being knocked over. The
india-rubber thread is conducted partly around the wheel hand down between
the needles i, being a wheel or disc, the periphery of which is cut or formed
(as shown at Figure 2 of the Drawing) so as to act upon the stem of every
alternate needle in order to force them out of place for the purpose of allowing
the india-rubber thread to pass from the groove in the wheel h between the
needles, which are pressed outwards, and those needles which are not so acted
upon in the manner described in the Specification before referred to for
introducing a non-elastic thread. The india-rubber thread may, if desired,
be introduced between every alternate needle of each course of looped work
made thereon or between every third needle, or in any other order, according
to the character of the knitted fabric which it is desired to produce. I would
remark that I have not thought it necessary to shew or describe the mode of
making an ordinary course of looped work upon the needles, the same being
well understood, nor do I confine myself to the use of any particular arrange-
ment of circular knitting machinery in carrying out my Invention, as the
same may be readily applied to the various arrangements of such machines
in use by any competent mechanic acquainted with this class of machinery.
Another part of my improvements consists in introducing two or more
additional threads (with each looped thread employed in the circle) into
tubular knitted fabrics of this character, one or more of such threads being
made of india-rubber, and the others of cotton, silk, wool, or other non-elastic
materials, either plain or colored, by which tubular elastic fabrics of a very
novel and useful character may be produced. The additional threads (to each
loop thread) may be introduced in this manner into tubular elastic fabrics
between each or every other course of looped work made on the needles, or in
any other order, and such threads may be laid in between or around the
needles alternately (or in any other desired order), each successive additional
thread being caused to pass (by the formation or cut of the pressing wheels i)
around the opposite side of the needle to that of the preceding additional
thread, and it is desirable that the number of needles contained in the circle
should be odd in place of even, by which the appearance of straight lines in
the tubular fabrics so manufactured is avoided, or the number of additional

page_text: threads (to each loop thread) and wheels i employed may be odd in place of
even, in order to produce a similar result. By this means plain terry cut or
plush pile tubular elastic knitted fabrics of a greatly improved character may
be manufactured. In like manner two or more additional threads of india-
rubber, or part of india-rubber and part of non-elastic threads, may be
introduced (with each course of looped work) into knitted fabrics made on
straight frames or into looped fabrics made in warp frames or machines, by
laying such threads between or partly around the needles (in the manner
previously described in reference to circular knitting machines) between each
successive course, or otherwise, of looped work made on such needles. For
some purposes the additional india-rubber threads employed according to my
Invention may have a non-elastic thread combined therewith by winding the
same spirally around such india-rubber thread. The india-rubber threads
employed according to my Invention may be introduced between every course
of looped work made on the needles, or between every other course, or in
any other desired order to suit the character of the fabric required.
Having thus described the nature of my Invention, and the manner of
carrying the same into practice, I would have it understood that I do not
confine myself to the exact details herein described so long as the peculiar
character of my improvements be retained; but what I claim is,-
First, the introduction of an additional thread or threads of india-rubber
into circular knitted fabrics, as herein described.
Secondly, I claim the introduction of two or more additional threads to
or with each loop thread employed in the manufacture of circular knitted
fabrics, as herein described.
And, lastly, I claim the introduction of two or more additional threads
in the manner herein described to each course of looped work made in
straight frames or into looped fabrics made on warp machines.
In witness whereof, I, the said Robert Barlow Cooley, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, this First day of November, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-five.
R. B. COOLEY. (L.S.)
Witness,
J. G. TONGUE, Patent Agent,
34, Southampton Buildings, Chancery Lane, W.C.