IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY EMPLOYED WHEN WEAVING HAIR, AND IN PREPARING AND TREATING HAIR FOR WRAVING
Year: 1865

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to George Tomlinson Bousfield, of Loughborough
Park, Brixton, in the County of Surrey, for the Invention of
"IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY EMPLOYED WHEN WEAVING HAIR, AND IN
PREPARING AND TREATING HAIR FOR WRAVING."-A communication from
abroad by Charles Bradley, residing at Providence, Rhode Island,
United States of America.
Sealed the 13th March 1866, and dated, the 29th November 1865.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION filed by the said George Tomlinson Bous-
field at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition
and Declaration, on the 29th November 1865, pursuant to the 9th
Section of the Patent Law Amendment Act, 1852.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, BE IT
KNOWN that I, GEORGE TOMLINSON BOUSFIELD, of Loughborough Park,
Brixton, in the County of Surrey, do hereby declare the nature of the
said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY EMPLOYED WHEN WEAVING
HAIR, AND IN PREPARING AND TREATING HAIR FOR WEAVING," (communicated
to me from abroad by Charles Bradley, a person resident at Providence,
Rhode Island, United States of America,) and in what manner the same
is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement thereof, that is to say:-
D

page_text: This Invention of certain improvements in machinery for preparing,
modes of treating, weaving, and finishing fabrics of horsehair and other
hair and weft consisting of detached lengths or shoots of material consists,
in the first place, in several novel and improved constructions and arrange-
ments of machinery and modes of treating and preparing in several diffe-
rent operations the hair of horses and other animal hair used as weft in
weaving horsehair seating for chairs, sofas, and other furniture; also
padding, crinoline, and other articles; and, secondly, in certain novel and
improved constructions and arrangements of mechanism adapted to power
looms for weaving and machinery for shaving or finishing such woven
fabrics, that is to say:-
These improvements consist, first, in an arrangement of machinery
whereby the crude hair is opened, separated, and cleaned by removing the
dirt and foreign matter therefrom. The hair, after being partially opened,
is confined to the periphery of a revolving cylinder, and a hackle is made
to gradually approach the cylinder as it revolves, and thus to enter deeper
and deeper into the flying bunches of hair, beating and combing therefrom
the dirt, foreign matter, and shorter hair; after which the hair is confiued
loosely in bunches and colored.
Secondly, the Invention consists in certain improved combinations of
machinery for drawing and separating or assorting the hairs into bunches of
uniform length adapted to weaving different widths of goods; the colored
hair being thoroughly dried is disentangled and straightened by hackling,
and is then placed on a bed or apron furnished with hackling pins or
spikes, and by means of a pair of jaws having a to-and-fro movement
towards and from the said bed or apron some of the hairs are seized by
one end, drawn from the mass, and laid straight and parallel to each other
on a rack or bed, and by means of a rake or gatherer running across the
bed at right angles to the length of the hair the same are gathered into a
bunch on one side of the rack, the said operation continuing until the
hairs are all drawn from the bed or apron. By this means the mass of hair
thus drawn is placed evenly on a line at one end, the other ends of the
hair being irregular and uneven by reason of their varying lengths. This
mass of hair is then returned to the said bed or apron with the even ends
on a line against a vertical board or head, with the longer hair underneath
the shorter as nearly as it is possible to arrange it, when by means of the
jaws before mentioned the hair is again drawn by one end from the mass,
laid on the rack, and gathered to one side thereof by the rake, where it is
deposited in small bunches of uniform length, bunches of the longer hair

page_text: being first drawn out from the mass, followed by bunches of shorter hair
as the drawing progresses, the surface bed or apron being made to gradually
approach the reciprocating jaws as the drawing proceeds.
Thirdly, the Invention consists in coating the free or switch end of the
hairs, which is smaller than the butts or growing ends, with a solution of
glue or other suitable material or compound to increase the size of this end
of the hair, so that in weaving the switch ends shall take up the warp and
produce the same closeness of texture and appearance as the butt end,
providing either are placed all uniformly on one side of the warp.
Fourthly, the Invention consists in annointing or dressing one end of
the prepared hair before weaving with melted tallow or other fatty or
oleaginous material or compound, the object being to protect the glue
or other suitable compound used when the hair is damped before being
woven.
And in relation to the improvement in the combination and arrangement
of mechanism and device adapted to weaving horsehair weft, the Invention
consists in certain automatic mechanism for feeding or serving the lengths
of hair or weft singly to the hook or nippers or other device which per-
forms the office of placing the weft on the warp, and certain appliances
auxiliary thereto, that is to say :-
1st, in confining and compressing the bunch of prepared hair or weft
at one end in a reciprocating yoke by means of a presser or clamp that
exerts a force upward in the yoke toward the instrument which selects the
single hair from the bunch, so that the portion of the bunch so compressed
under the instrument shall be maintained at a uniform density as the bunch
diminishes by drawing hairs one by one continuously therefrom.
2nd, in enveloping the bunch of prepared hair after it is moistened as
usual in a sheath of woollen cloth or other suitable material to keep the
hair in the bunch moist during the time required to feed or serve it to the
loom.
3rd, in preserving the end that is to be compressed and operated on by
the selecting or serving instrument from being moistened with the other
portion of the bunch, as usual, by enveloping that end of the bunch in a
waterproof cot or tube of india-rubber or otherwise.
4th, in holding the bunch of hair on the serving machine in a curved
or a curved inclined position, so that when single hairs are withdrawn from
the bunch those remaining will not be disturbed and become entangled
5th, in constructing, combining, and arranging a notched pointed
instrument or lance and a yielding surface or pad to operate in such a

page_text: manner that both shall be plunged into the compressed portion of the
bunch and gather from thence a number of ends, out of or from among
which one end shall be caught in the notch of the lance and held therein
by the co-operative efforts of the yielding pad, and thus caught shall be
lifted out from and deflected and held to one side of the remaining com-
pressed ends preparatory to being seized the nipper or other instrument
which places the same on the warp.
6th, in so combining and arranging the serving instrument and the
nipper or its substitute and the bunch of hair that the end that is selected
and deflected from the bunch by the serving mechanism may be held across
the track or path of the nipper, which is thus enabled to seize the weft
between the selecting instrument and the bunch to draw it into the warp.
7th, in controlling the operation of the selecting or serving mechanism
by means of a delicate finger or detector that has a sweep or movement
across the position of the selected weft after each operation of the selecting
instrument between the same and the bunch of weft when the weft is not
present, or is arrested by the weft when it is present. By the first-named
condition a detector or stop is placed so as to be in operation, and permits
the operation of the selecting instrument to be repeated, and by the last
condition the stop is put into action and arrests the operation of selecting.
8th, this part of the Invention relates to the mode of operation of the
selecting mechanism after it has failed to select and deliver to the hook or
nipper a weft to be drawn into the shed by which the operations of the
selecting mechanism are arrested, while the operations of the heddles and
lay are continued until the proper shed is again opened to receive the
weft, when the selecting mechanism again automatically resumes. This
part of my Invention consists in the employment in connection with the
selecting mechanism of a second detent or stop, which arrests the selecting
mechanism in a position to be out of the way of the nipper, and is brought
into action with each backward movement of the lay in case the weft fails
to be selected, and continues in action during any determined number of
picks, and is then automatically released.
9th, the Invention consists in closing the shed upon the weft imme-
diately after drawing it between the warps, and in advance of the closing
of the shed by the regular operation of the heddles, in order to bind the
hair temporarily between the warps to prevent it from springing, curving,
or otherwise departing from the straight condition in which it is drawn
into the shed.
10th, in the means employed for operating the nipper to place the weit

page_text: in the shed, consisting of a segmental rack and a pinion operated by two
crank studs on the main shaft to revolve a drum in opposite directions
alternately, from which by means of a strap winding and unwinding there-
from motion is communicated to the nipper.
11th, this part of the Invention relates to the means for controlling
the letting off of the warps by the tension of the same, and consists in so
combining and arranging a multiplying lever with suitable connections
between the whip roll and the pawl of the ratchet that exerts the movement
to let off the warps that the depression of the whip roll produced by the
tension of the warps is multiplied and transmitted to the pawl, and with
the inclination which is given to the connection between the lever's end
and the pawl by the retreating movement of the latter preparatory to
engaging with the ratchet the pawl is lifted more or less from the ratchet,
and thereby made to engage with and move the ratchet to the extent of one
tooth or more, according to the degree of tension of the warps.
12th, this part of the improvement relates to the mode of controlling
the changes of the heddles or harness by the supply of weft, and cousists
in providing a means by which the action of the several sets of heddles
employed shall be stopped before the shed is changed whenever the hair
or other material used as weft is not drawn between the warps where such
weft was designed to have been placed, while at the same time the beat of
the lay is not interrupted; and also in providing a means by which the
said heddles shall automatically resume their action the instant that such
weft is properly inserted.
13th, this part of the Invention also relates to a mode of contrelling
the changes of the heddles or harness by the supply of weft, and consists
in providing a means by which in case the supply of weft fails as the shed
is opened to receive it, the said shed is wholly or in part closed and again
reopened, and so continues to do until the weft is supplied thereto, after
which the change is made which opens the succeeding shed.
14th, this part of the Invention relates to the combination and
arrangement of mechanism for clipping or trimming broken and protruding
ends of weft from hair cloth, and consists in combining and arranging
with suitable cutting blades for clipping, trimming, or shearing hair cloth
a deflector, so called, consisting of an inclined surface which is situated
above and just in advance of the cutting edge of the blades for the
purpose of deflecting the protruding ends of hair from their upright
position, and carrying and holding the same in an inclined position directly
across the edge of the blade.

page_text: Having thus above recited the several improvements of the said
Invention, and in what the same consist respectively, I will now proceed
to describe the constructive arrangement and mode of operation of the
mechanism used to carry the same into effect, referring to the accompanying
Drawings.
Figure 1 of said Drawings is a longitudinal section of the first
machine for opening, cleaning, and separating the crude hair. A, A, is
the framework, midway between the end of which is mounted a wheel B
on a suitable shaft, on which may be fixed a pulley by which said cylinder
is revolved. This cylinder may be formed by connecting two pulley rims
with a filling of wood c, c, leaving apertures f, f, through the same in each
quarter of the circle, the cylinder being about three feet in diameter and
having a face of about two feet from end to end. In each of the said
apertures in the cylinder a bunch of crude hair is griped and hold by
doubling the hair over a metal rod d, and confining the doubled portion in
the periphery of the cylinder by means of a block a set up by a wedge e;
two stout iron straps t at each end of the aperture serving to sustain in
part the strain and hold the wedge and block in place. The hair is
doubled at about one-third the distance from one end of the bunch, leaving
the remaining portion protruding and hanging loosely from the periphery
of the cylinder. Upon the framework A there is a sliding carriage
y, on which is a solid block furnished with four or five rows of stout hackle
pins i, i, set about half an inch asunder and extending across the machine.
These hackle pins are moved up gradually to the face of the cylinder by
means of the rack and pinion p beneath the carriage, operated by the hand
wheel D, and the machine being thus constructed and arranged with
power suitably applied to reveive the cylinder in the direction indicated
by the arrow, the ends of the several bunches of hair confined therein as
they revolve come in contact with the hackle pins which are moved up to
the cylinder by a gradual feeding motion, and the loose ends of the hair
are drawn forcibly through the hackle and beaten and separated, so that
the dirt and other foreign matter and short hairs are effectually removed
and separated therefrom. This being done, the bunches of hair are
loosened from the cylinder and again confined as before explained at
about one-third the distance from the other end of the bunch, when the
operation is repeated for the purpose of opening and cleansing that portion
of the hair which was confined in the previous operation. After this is
done the hair may be confined loosely in bunches and subjected to the
coloring process, after which the hair is again hackled either with a similar

page_text: machino to that just described, or by drawing the bunch through suitable
hackles by hand, in order to straighten and disentangle the hairs.
The next operation is that of drawing and assorting or separating the
mass of the prepared hair into bunches of equally long hairs to be used as
weft for weaving different widths of cloth. This is accomplished by
means of the mechanism represented in Figures 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 of the
Drawings, in which Figure 2 is a side elevation, partly in section, of the
machine; Figure 3 is a plan; and Figures 4, 5, 6 are details which are
explained in the course of the description. Fis the frame of the machine;
B is the mass of air to be assorted; a, a, are the griping jaws of the
drawing mechanism; m, m, is a bed or rack on which the drawn lengths
are temporarily deposited; 9, 9, are clearing fingers on a wiping bar f,
having a lateral movement across the bed or rack for gathering the drawn
hair deposited thereon into a bunch on one side of the machine. The
hair or weft B, after being cleansed of all foreign matter and otherwise
prepared in a suitable condition for weaving, is placed on the sliding
carriage D, the bottom of which is set with rows of hackle pins t, t, which
project upwards amongst the weft and keep its lengths parallel to each
other and from becoming entangled. The bottom of the carriage is of
sufficient length to accommodate the longest hair, say 36 or 40 inches,
and that portion next to the griping jaws may consist of a series of strips
or sections s about one inch in width, with a row of hackle pins in each,
as shown in Figures 2 and 4, or this part may consist of an apron n, as
shown in Figure 6. In the former construction, Figures 2 and 4, the
sections are removable, each section supporting and holding one inch of the
length of the weft, so that when the longest weft has been drawn out of the
mass that section (40) next to the griping jaws is removed aud the carriage
is moved up to said jaws, thereby uncovering another inch of the mass and
presenting it to be drawn out by the jaws. The said sections may be re-
moved when desired by means of the moveable supporter », consisting of a
strip of wood fixed on the ends of two vertical rods 6 sliding in bearings
on the frame upon cach side and operated by the lever T, Figure 2.
This supporter remains up beneath the foremost section, as shown in the
Figure 2, until the hair is all drawn therefrom, when the handle end of
the lever T is raised, thereby depressing the opposite end and lowering
the supporter, and with it the section thereon, the supporter entering the
recess 2 in the table C, leaving the upper surface of the supporter flush
with the surface of the table, when by means of the parallel wiper u,
Figure 5, operated by the rod o, the section is pushed off and to one side

page_text: of the supporter into the position shown at 3 (Figure 2), and the supporter
is again elevated to the position shown, the carriage is moved up to the
griping jaws, carrying the next section (39) upon the supporter to be
similarly operated upon at the proper time, and presenting that portion of
the hair which had previously covered the section 40 to be drawn out by
the jaws. When the carriage D is constructed with an apron of leather
or rubber cloth, as shown in Figure 6, the hackle pins are dispensed with
in the apron, and are only employed in the after part of the carriage where
the bulk of the hair is held, including the shorter portion thereof, the
foremost part of the hair upon the apron being held in its place by means
of a binding strap or straps passing over the hair at intervals and confined
at each side. The apron passes over a roller near the point from which
the hair is drawn, and thence passes over another roller beneath, and has a
weight (92) suspended from the end thereof; the sliding movements of
the carriage are regulated, when thus constructed, by means of a feeding
screw d, turning in a nut beneath the carriage by means of a pair of bevel
gears connecting it with a shaft at right angles with said screw and a
ratchet thereon operated by an arm w, and a suitable connection there-
from attached to some moving part of the machine. A hand wheel is
also secured upon the outer end of the same, by means of which the
carriage is run back after the drawing is completed. The griping jaws
are operated to draw the hair longitudinally from the mass by means of the
connecting rods E, the arms H, and the revolving plates G, from the face
of which a roller stud 5 projects and communicates a reciprocating motion
to said arms and the parts connected therewith. The said plates G are
secured on each end of the shaft J, which is driven by means of the gears
K, K', and the pulley N, by a band passing around the latter, as shown in
Figures 2 and 3. The griping jaws are stoutly made of iron, and are
hinged together at 7 to the sliding carriage M, which slides in guides or
ways formed in the side pieces P of the frame. The griping jaws are
opened and closed at the proper time by means of two studs y, y, on their
forward part upon each side, which slide upon guide or cam pieces 14 and
15 on the side pieces P of the frame against the force of the spring 8
between the jaws upon each side of the carriage, which forces the jaws
asunder. The closing and opening of the said jaws is regulated by means
of a latch 10 extending upward from the lower jaw and engaging with a
catch 9 on the upper jaw, the latch being operated to shut upon the catch
and confine the two jaws together by means of the spring 13, which presses
a ainst the latch continually. Thus constructed, when the jaws advance

page_text: to seize the protruding ends of the hair the studs y, y, slide upon the cam
surfaces 14 and 15, which compress the jaws together upon the ends of the
hair, at the same time the spring 13 operates the latch and locks the two
jaws together with the hair between them tightly grasped; the jaws then
recede, drawing out the hair thus seized from the mass until the upper
end of the latch comes in contact with the point of the set screw 4, which
is adjusted to meet said latch at the extreme end of the receding stroke,
when the forward part of the jaws are depressed by the inclined portion
of the cam surface 14* into the position shown in dotted lines in Figure 2
the latch is pressed back, the jaws are opened, and the hair released there-
from and deposited on the bed or rack m, m. The griping jaws remain
at rest in their position until the hair which has been deposited on the
bed is gathered together and deposited on one side of the rack m in a
bunch. The hair is thus gathered by means of the clearing fingers g, g;
on the wiping bar f, Figures 2, 3, and 6, said fingers protruding between
the slats of the bed or rack m, and are slightly hooked at the top so as to
retain the hair. These fingers have a movement across the bed while the
griping jaws are at rest by means of the lever I, connected at one end to
the under side of the wiping bar f, and at the other end to a stud 22 on the
frame on which said lever swings. Near the latter end of the lever is a
roller stud 16, which works in the groove cam R, on the shaft J, Figure 3.
About one-fourth of a revolution of the groove cam is essential for the
operation of the clearing fingers g, whilst the griping jaws are at rest as
above specified. It is in consequence also necessary that the operation of
the griping jaws be suspended during this fourth of a revolution, which
may be accomplished by the confirmation of the swinging arms H, shown
in dotted lines in Figure 2, which permits the said arms and the parts con-
nected thereto to remain at rest during the passage of the roller stud 5
from one position to the other, shown in dotted lines in the direction
indicated by the arrows. It will be seen that when the forward end of the
griping jaws is depressed, as shown in the dotted lines of Figure 2, the
point at which the hair is griped by them is next to and below the last
finger g, so that the movement of this finger across the bed in the manner
described will effectually wipe from the jaws any hairs which may adhere
to them after the jaws are opened, which will sometimes occur. The
drawing and assorting of the hair into bunches of equal lengths by the
mechanism above described requires two operations; the first being to
draw the hairs from an irregular mass arranged on the bed or apron by
one end without regard to their length; and having by this means secured

page_text: one end of the hairs so that the same may be arranged in a mass on the
bed or apron evenly and on a line with each other, the next operation
is to draw from the irregular end of the mass the hairs which protrude the
farthest from the mass, which comprise the longer hairs, and as these are
removed from the mass the ends of the shorter hairs will present them-
selves to be drawn out in their turn, and be formed into bunch es according
to their length as the drawing progresses. The mass of hair B as repre-
sented in Figure 2 has been once drawn and the different lengths placed
evenly on a line at one end against the upright portion of the carriage D.
The same means and mode of operation are, however, employed as above
described to draw out a quantity of weft from a mass by one end of the
lengths, in order to place one end of the lengths on a line with each other
without regard to their length, and after this is done, as shown in Figure 2,
to draw the weft from the unequal or uneven end of the mass by lengths
in succession, in order to assort and separate the longer lengths from the
shorter for weaving different widths of goods.
auce.
The third part of the Invention, which relates to the coating of the
smaller or switch ends of the horsehair with glue or some similar material
with a view to increasing the breadth of this end of the hair and make it
of uniform size throughout its entire length, is designed to avoid the
necessity which hitherto existed of mixing an equal number of the butt
ends and switch ends of the hair, or so placing the same in the warp that
an equal number of switch and butt ends would be combined at either
edge of the cloth, and thus give the goods a uniform texture and appear-
In order to carry out this part of the Invention into effect the glue is
dissolved and prepared in the ordinary way of its use, and while it is hot
and limpid the switch end of a bunch of hair is immersed to about one-
third of its length in in the liquid, and withdrawn and shaken to remove any
superfluity of the material, and afterwards the bunch is suspended by its
butt end and allowed to dry and harden. If necessary, a number of coats
of the glue may be applied in this way, and the switch end of the hair
increased to a diameter which will make the hair very nearly uniform in
size and appearance from end to end. The hair after being thus treated
may be woven without regard to the disposition of its ends without
affecting the texture or appearance of the goods.
The fourth part of the Invention, which relates to the annointing or
dressing of the hair with tallow or other oleaginous material, is intended to
preserve the glue or other material used to increase the switch ends of the
hair from the moisture to which the hair is subjected before being woven.

page_text: The hair is moistened to soften it before weaving by immersing the
bunch; in so doing, however, it is essential that the end of the bunch
from which the hair is to be taken by the serving instrument, so called,
should be kept dry to ensure greater certainty in selecting single hairs
therefrom. For this purpose the end of the bunch to be kept dry is
enveloped in an elastic sheet or cot J of india-rubber, shown in Figures 7,
8, 9, 10 of the Drawings, which confines the hairs so compactly as to
exclude the water from this portion during immersion. This sheath or
cot is placed on the bunch of hair by first expanding it by means of the
mechanism shown in Figures 11 and 12, consisting of four levers 6
arranged like tongs in the stand E on the ends I of which the cot is placed,
and expanding by sliding the ring k towards the opposite ends of the levers
by means of the lever F, which is connected by the cord m to a treadle,
the ends I of the levers being brought together to receive the cot by
means of the surrounding rubber band g. The cot being expanded in
this way, the end of the bunch of hair is inserted therein through the
funnel N, Figures 9 and 11, of sheet metal, which collects and holds the
hair in a body at this end until the cot closes upon it, when the funnel is
drawn off at the other end of the bunch. To remove the cot after immer-
sion and before placing the bunch of hair in the serving machine an elastic
thong or binder S of india-rubber, connected at the ends by means of a
hook and eye, is placed around the bunch near the cot, as shown in Figure
10, and the outside hairs being thus held firmly the cot may be slipped off
the end of the bunch, after which the binder S is unloosed, when the hair
may be placed in the machine which serves it to the loom. It is desirable
that the bunch of hair should be kept moist during the time required to
feed it to the loom. For this purpose the moistened bunch of hair is
enveloped in a loose sheath or bag P of woollen cloth, shown in Figures 13
and 22 of the Drawings, and in order to prevent the hair in such bag from
becoming entangled or disordered by the drawing of single hairs therefrom
from time to time, a means is provided in the holder H, forming part of
the frame of the serving machine, to hold the bunch in a curved inclined
position, showu in Figures 13 and 22, in which the hairs will remain
undisturbed by the drawing out of any one of them. The end of the
bunch of hair from which the single hairs are taken by the selecting
instrument is confined and compressed in a compact body beneath said
instrument in the yoke A by means of a presser or clamp D, hinged at a
to the frame, and subjected to the action of the spiral spring m to press the
clamp upwards and so compress the hair B between it and the binder T,

page_text: which extends across the yoke to confine the hair therein, as shown in
Figures 13, 14, 15, 23, and 32. By this means the compressed portion of
the bunch is maintained at a uniform density as the bunch diminishes by
drawing hairs one by one therefrom. The yoke A in which the hair is
confined has a reciprocating movement horizontally in the bed of the
machine beneath the selecting instrument produced by a cam on the
ratchet wheel L, which is revolved with an intermittent movement by means
of the pawl b at the end of the lever K, said cam being enclosed in the
sliding plate A forming part of the yoke, and in revolving therein slides
the plate and yoke in the one direction against the action of the spiral
spring n, which slides the plate in the opposite direction. This recipro-
cating movement presents a fresh surface of the compressed hair each
time to be operated upon by the selecting instrument, which, with the
means provided for keeping the hair at a uniform density beneath the
instrument, is calculated to ensure the certain seizure of the hair by the
instrument. The improved selecting instrument which forms part of this
Invention is shown in the several stages of its operation in Figures 13, 14,
15, and 23, and in detail showing its construction in Figures 17, 18, 19, 20,
and 21. The instrument comprises two parts, a notched pointed instru-
ment, Figure 21, for selecting a single hair from a number, and a yielding
pad or surface, Figure 20, for holding the hair so selected by the other in
its uotch until it is disengaged therefrom by the means intended.
Au instrument having the same leading characteristics has hitherto been
patented (A.D. 1863, No. 2061), but having a different mode of operation,
in which the notched instrument only was plunged into the bunch of hair
for the selection of the single ones therefrom, and the pad (so called) was
contrived to join the notched instrument as it was withdrawn from the mass
of hair with a single one in its notch, and hold the hair therein until it should
be intentionally disengaged therefrom. In the present improved instrument
both the notched instrument and the pad are plunged into the bunch of
hair and gather therefrom a number of hairs, out from among which one
hair is caught and detained in the notch and separated from the compressed
ends sufficiently for the selected hair to be seized by the instrument which
inserts it in the warp. The two parts of the instrument are united by a
pivot e, on which the pad swings, subjected to the yielding action of the
spring h, which presses the inclined surface i of the pad against the notch k
of the other instrument to seize and hold the hair. This instrument is
secured by its shank R to the sliding plate G by the screws through the
plater thereon. This plate slides vertically in the frame C by the motion

page_text: of the crank pin P on the wheel F, to which it is connected, and serves to
plunge the selecting instrument into the bunch of hair beneath to take a
hair, and to withdraw the hair which is so taken from the mass so that it
may be placed in the warps. As the instrument is plunged into the mass
of hair the arm u of the pad is depressed by the lever E operated by the
cam 3 on the driving wheel, as shown in Figure 14, and by this means the
notched instrument and the pad are separated, and thus they enter the
mass of hair, when the two instruments are allowed to close upon each
other, in doing which a number of hairs are gathered from the mass, as
shown in Figure 15, and from this number one is caught in the notch of
the selecting instrument, which is of sufficient capacity only to contain a
single hair, and the. gathering of the hairs by the incline of the pad as it
closes on the notch, having the effect as it were to feel out and seize
one of the number of gathered hairs and ensuring greater certainty of
operation. As the selecting instrument ascends all other than the single
hair that occupies the notch springs by the instrument and resumes its
former position among the mass, while the hair that is held in the instru-
ment is lifted out from and deflected and held to one side of the mass, as
shown in Figure 13, so that it may be seized between the selecting instru-
ment and the mass B by the nipper V or other instrument used to insert
the hair (as weft) in the warp, as shown in Figure 23. This mode of
deflecting seizing the selected hair with the nipper being an important
improvement of the Invention, and is herein claimed.
Another construction of the selecting instrument that is adapted to the
mode of operation above described is represented in Figures 24, 25, and
26, and in detail in Figures 28 and 29 of the Drawings, in which the pad.
i consists of a concave surface or cup and is rigidly secured to the
vertical slide, while the notched instrument is of the same construction,
but is arranged to swing on the pivot e as the pad has been previously.
described to do, and subjected to the same yielding action of the spring h.
The instrument when thus constructed is plunged into the mass of hair
with the two parts i and k separated, and whilst embedded therein are
closed together, the notched point of one shutting into concave or cup of
the other in the manner shown in Figures 26 and 33, whereby one of the
hairs B that extend across the concave surface is caught in the notch of
the other instrument and by it depressed into the concave, and by that
means separated and held apart from the others and lifted out from among
them in the manner before described, the notched instrument in connec-
tion with the concave surface of the pad forming a bight in the hair, as'

page_text: shown at v, Figure 26, which serves to render its seizure and retention
the more certain and effectual. In place of the concave surface of the
pad a convex surface may be employed with good results.
Another construction of the selecting instrument having the same
mode of operation as those above described is shown in Figure 35, which
consists of two shearing blades or edges g, g¹, one of which is stationary
and the other moveable, as a pair of shears, by means of the spring s in
one direction and the arm d, forming part of the moveable blade, in the
opposite direction, said blade being operated by the lever from the cam
m on the driving wheel A as the slide D is completing its downward
stroke with the wheel revolving in the direction indicated by the arrow.
H represents the ends of the compressed bunch of hair within the yoke or
receptacle e, e, at such a distance directly beneath the instrument that the
downward stroke of the same plunges the extremities of the two blades
while separated into the compressed hair, following which the moveable
blade g¹ is released and permitted to close, in doing which one of the
hairs is caught between the two blades and is lifted up and deflected from
the mass by the ascending movement of the slide D. The blades g, g¹,
are contrived so as to catch only one hair or weft at a time by fo ming the
shearing edge of each of such a curve as that the diameter of one hair
will restrain the moveable blade from closing by the action of the spring
s and ; there should be a hair directly beneath that which is held at
the vertex of the edges of the two blades it could not be caught up by
the blades owing to the extent of their separation at this point; hence the
instrument will take but a single hair from the mass, which result is due
to the form of the curve of the shearing blades. In lieu of the shearing
blades one of which is moveable, two fixed shearing edges, or two edges
converging at the proper angle as above described, and similar to that
represented in Figures 36 and 37, may be made use of, and will when
plunged into the mass of hair with some force catch a hair between
the converging edges i, i, and hold the same with sufficient security to
deflect it from the mass in the manner proposed, and hold it in the proper
position to be seized by the instrument that places it in the warp. The
serving instrument shown in Figure 36 may be used, the same being
formed so that one of the converging edges i will be yielding, and yet by
reason of the angle at which the said edges converge only a single hair will
be taken.
C, Figure 35, is a "
detector," so called, which discovers the presence
of a hair in the selecting instrument, so that its subsequent movements

page_text: may be governed accordingly. It consists of a piece of sheet metal
having a projection k, which has a sliding movement past the two blades
g, g', in the direction indicated by the arrow by the action of a spring
after each descending movement to take a hair from the bunch; and the
movements of this detector are so connected by intermediate mechanism.
to a pawl which engages with the detent or stop J on the wheel A by
which the whole mechanism is operated, that when the hair is held in the
said serving instrument its presence will arrest the sliding of the detector,
and with it the pawl aforesaid, in a position to engage with the stop J and
arrest the operation of the serving instrument in a position to present the
hair held therein to the instrument which places it in the warp. But
when the sliding movement of the detector is not arrested, owing to
the failure to take a hair from the bunch, the pawl is witheld from its
engagement until the hair is duly taken by the instrument, when its
operation is arrested as before explained.
An improved construction and arrangement of the serving instrument
and mechanism is represented in Figures 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, and 43, in
which A is the bed plate of the apparatus, which is secured to the metal
plate B (shown in dotted lines), extending from the end of the race beam
G of the lay; C is an upright stand on the bed plate A, in which revolves
the driving shaft a. In the front of the stand (c) is a slide d, which is
connected by the rod f to a crank pin in the face of the wheel P, Figures
38 and 39, on the driving shaft, which in revolving reciprocates the slide
vertically. The notched serving instrument / it held in the lower part of
the vertical slide, the downward movement of which plunges the instru-
ment into the mass of hair in the receptacle e, e, beneath, by which
one of the hairs is caught in the notch of the instrument and deflected
from the bunch and properly presented to the nipper which inserts the
hair in the warp. The pad i, which serves to hold the hair in the notch of
the instrument k until it is intentionally disengaged therefrom, in this
construction consists of a surface on the lower part of the sliding sleeve y,
which encloses the shank of the selecting instrument in a kind of sheath,
from which it protrudes to catch a hair from the mass by the movement
above mentioned, and by the reaction of the spiral spring f³ or an equi-
valent yielding force (caused by the upward movement of the slide d), is
drawn into the said sheath, carrying the hair or weft so selected against the
pad i on the sleeve, which forms a bight in the weft and holds the same in
the selecting instrument until it is disengaged therefrom to be drawn into
the warp. The operation of the selecting instrument is arrested and it is

page_text: held in its proper position aside from the mass of weft when a weft has
been selected by means of a detent or stop h at the periphery of the wheel
P and a pawl b on the end of the rod o, which engages with the stop hat
the proper time, and thereby prevents the wheel from turning and recipro-
cating the slide d, and operating the parts connected therewith. The pawl b
is witheld from engaging with the stop h by the force of the spring 5, which
is suitably arranged for the purpose, and its engagement is effected by
means of the rodj, which connects it with the mechanism that;
governs and
controls the repeating movement of the selecting device above mentioned.
The mechanism consists of a delicate finger or detector S (Figures 38
and 40, and in Figures 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 23, 24, 25, 30, 32, 33, 34),
swinging on a pivot X connected with the sleeve y, or otherwise arranged
to move across the position of the selected weft, and having a finger v, or an
equivalent device, to communicate motion to the connecting rod j and
thence to the pawl 6; and a third finger u, which slides upon a stationary
inclined surface m, conveniently arranged therewith by the reciprocating
movement of the slide (d), and with the assistance of a spiral spring ea-
circling the pivot ✗, serves to swing the detector (s) and its finger (v) to
and fro between the selecting device and the mass of hair with each
operation of the selecting instrument to take a hair therefrom, for the
purpose of detecting the presence of a hair in the instrument and governing
the action of the detent or stop accordingly. This mechanism being
constructed and arranged as described the operation is as follows:-
When the selecting instrument descends to select a hair from the mass
the finger u comes in contact with the inclined surface m, and by sliding
thereon swings the detector s beneath and to one side of the selecting
instrument, the same movement swinging the finger v directly beneath the
projecting piece j¹ on the lower end of the connecting rod j, and when
the selecting instrument ascends after being plunged into the mass of hair,
and one of the hairs is selected and deflected therefrom, the spiral spring
on the pivot X swings the detector s back to its former position, in doing
which it is arrested by coming in contact with the selected hair, and resting
against the hair it gives a position to its finger v directly beneath the pro-
jection, with which it comes in contact and lifts, and with it the rod j,
the upper end of the latter serving to swing the pawl into engagement
with the stop on the wheel P and arrest its revolution, with the selected
hair sufficiently deflected to be seized by the nipper between the selecting
instrument and the mass. Should the instrument however fail to select a hair
from the mass, the absence of the deflected hair permits the detector to swing

page_text: across the position it would otherwise occupy, and its finger v to swing from
beneath the projection j of the connecting rod j, which with the pawl b
remains unmoved during the ascending movement of the slide (d), and no
engagement of the pawl 6 with the stop h takes place, and the wheel P
therefore continues to revolve and repeat the operation of the selecting
instrument one or more times until a hair is selected, when the operation
is arrested as before explained. When the selected hair has been dis-
engaged from the instrument to be drawn into the open shed, the stop by
which the operation of the selecting mechanism was arrested holds the
wheels P from turning with until the forward beat of the lay the end of the
rod o comes in contact with the inclined surface of the dog L on the
stationary arm H extending from the frame of the loom (as shown in
Figure 41), which has the effect to slide the rod o lengthwise, and the
pawl b on the opposite end aside from the stop h, and thereby disengage
the same and permit the wheel P to resume its revolutions, the rod o being
returned to its first position by the spiral spring which encircles it, the
band m³, by which the shaft a is driven, being allowed to slip in the groove
of the wheel P during its stoppage by the detent or stop. When the rod
a meets the dog 1 during the backward beat of the lay the dog swings
aside and allows the end of the rod to pass, as shown at 2, Figure 40,
after which it is swung back to its former position by the spiral spring 15.
When the selecting instrument fails to select a hair during the backward
beat of the lay a continuance of its operation would render the selecting
instrument liable to collision with the nipper and to be injured in conse-
quence.
Το prevent this casualty I have invented and successfully applied
the second detent or stop shown in Figures 39, 40, 42, and 43, also
Figures 13, 16, 22, consisting of the lever or pawl T2, which is thrown up
to engage with the notched disc E on the shaft a nearly at the completion
of the backward beat of the lay by means of the lever N, the free end of
which is connected by the rod m² to the pawl T³, and is depressed by
sliding against the stationary incline F, as shown in Figure 42, and the
pawl T is witheld from engagement with the disc E by the spiral spring n²,
which returns the lever N and the parts connected therewith to the
position shown in Figure 43 when the lay swings forward. When,
however, the revolution of the shaft a is arrested by the action of the
detent or stop Z in the manner above explained, the pawl T2 is disengaged
from the notch in the disc by pushing the pawl aside from the notch by
means of the rod o, to which the pawl is connected, one end of said rod

page_text: striking against the inclined surface of the dog L in the manner before
explained (as shown in Figure 41), by the forward movement of the lay.
In order to hold over or suspend the operation of the selecting instru-
ment during the number of picks required in working the round of the
figure in weaving hair cloth, so that in case a hair fails to be supplied to
the nipper by the selecting device its selecting operations, when arrested
by the means above mentioned, shall be suspended during the determined
number of picks until the vacant shed is reopened, I arrange in connection
with the detent or stop above mentioned an index or counting device,
which is fully shown in Figures 39, 42, and 43, and consists of a notched
segment V, extending from the pawl or lever T2, and a pawl J pivotted
to the sliding rod o, and engaging with the notches of said segment
to swing it and the pawl T2 against the action of the spiral spring (1
in the direction indicated by the arrow to the extent of one of the
notches with each sliding movement or impulse of the rod Q, produced
by its striking against the incline surface of the swinging dog L with each
forward beat of the lay in the manner above explained. The detent or
notch Z is made sufficiently deep and acute to retain the pawl when
it is thrown up, and becomes engaged therewith when no hair is selected
as above explained. On the other hand the said notch is witheld
from receiving and engaging the pawl v2 by the action of the first-
mentioned stop (h) when a weft has been selected (the action of the
second stop being unnecessary), and the pawl is allowed to withdraw
itself out of the way without effecting an engagement. There are as
many notches in the segment V as there are picks in working the round
of the figure, which, in weaving hair cloth, usually numbers five, and the
pawl va is of such a width that it will slide laterally in the notch Z during
the intermittent sliding movement produced by the successive engagements
of the pawl J with the first four (1, 2, 3, 4) notches of the segment at the
termination of the successive forward beats of the lay and preceding the
reopening of the vacant shed, when, by the next engagement with the
fifth (5) notch of the segment, the pawl 2 is pushed aside from the notch
Z, and the selecting operation is permitted to resume with the reopening
of the vacant shed. The engagement of the pawl T3 takes place when
the selecting instrument fails to select a hair during the backward beat
of the lay, and the index or segment V determines by count the number
of picks which should be worked during the suspension of the selecting
operation, and permits said operation to resume automatically at the

page_text: proper time, and so to suspend and resume automatically as often as the
contingency occurs.
Having thus described the Invention, I wish it understood that I do not
limit myself to the particular construction of the parts as described, but I
claim all merely formal variations thereof performing the same mode of
operation by equivalent means; also that I have successfully applied and
connected the selecting mechanism, where operation is governed and
controlled by the index or counting device as above explained, to the
mechanism that lets off and delivers the warps to the "take up," so that
when the selecting mechanism fails to select a hair in the proper time the
progress of the warps will be suspended during the determined number of
picks and resumed with the operation of the selecting mechanism.
The next improvement of this Invention relates to the mode of binding
the inserted bair or weft temporarily between the warps before the regular
closing of the shed, to prevent the hair from springing from the straight
and tense condition in which it is drawn into the warp. The mechanism
is represented in Figures 44, 45, 46, 47, and 48 of the Drawings.
Figure 44 is a side elevation of a loom arranged with the binding
mechanism; Figure 45 is an elevation of the lay and portion of the frame
showing the binder applied at the back side of the lay; Figures 46 and 47
represent a modified form of the binder applied at the front side of the lay.
In said Drawings, F is the frame of the loom; D is the main shaft; G is
the lay; C, the yarn beam; P, PL, the "let-off" rollers; h, h, the harness;
A, the breast beam; Q, Q', the "take-up" rollers; E, the cloth beam; K
(in red lines) represents the warps. On the back side of the lay G the
binder is arranged, such binder consisting of a metal rod extending across
the face of the reed S, from side to side above the warps, and forms part
of a frame f, which slides vertically in suitable bearings a, a, a, on the back
side of the lay, as shown in Figure 45. A weight 7 is attached to the
frame of sufficient heaviness to depress the warps of the open shed to
a level with the other warps when it is liberated for that purpose. The
action of the binder is controlled by means of the cam L on the main
shaft and the lever m pivoted to the frame F¹, one end of which lever is
provided with a roller e, which bears against the face of the cam, and the
other end having a slot n, through which passes the stud v to connect, the
lever to the binder frame f¹, said slot being of sufficient length to allow the
stud v to slide to and fro therein with the beating movement of the lay.
The several parts being constructed and arranged as described, the operation
is that during that portion of the loom's operation in which the nipper

page_text: advances through the open shed to seize the hair as it presented to it at
the proper time, the proper shed has been opened by the action of the
harness, and simultaneously therewith the binder is elevated above the
warps of the open shed to the position shown in dotted lines in Figure 44
by the revolution of the cam surface from 1 to 2 against the roller e of the
lever m, following which the hair or weft which has been selected by the
instrument is drawn into the open shed by the retreating movement of the
nipper, and while the hair is held tense by the nipper at one end and a
suitable pressure on the other the surface of the cam L has passed the
roller e and allowed the binder to fall and assume the position shown in
Figures 44 and 45, which has the effect to depress and close the warps of
the open shed to a level or nearly so with the rest of the warps, thereby
binding the hair or weft r, which had been drawn into this position next to
and in front of the reed S, in the tense and straight condition before
explained, in which it is beat up by the reed in the usual way. Another
mode of applying this binder f is exhibited in Figures 46, 47, and 48, in
which the binder f depresses the warps from directly over the hair or weft
and upon the same side of the reed that the weft is deposited. This kind
of a binder may be made of wood or metal in the form shown by section
in Figures 46 and 47, and longitudinally in Figure 48, in length being
somewhat less than the width of the fabric. This binder is secured by
means of a strip or hinge of leather u to the rail d, as shown. It is not
intended to depress the warps in this instance by the weight of the binder,
but when the lay makes its backward movement the lower edge of the
binder drags on the warps and swings out from the reed resting on the
open shed in the position shown in Figure 47. And when the lay swings
forward to beat up the weft the binder swings on its hinges by the same
dragging action in the opposite direction, whereby the reed approaches the
edge of the binder, and in so doing depresses the warps of the open shed,
and thus effectually close them on the hair or weft, and bind the same
between the warps until by a continuation of the same movement of the
lay the weft is beaten up into the required position.
The next improvement of this Invention relates to the means employed
for operating the nipper for the proper insertion of the weft in the warp,
the mechanism of which is represented in Figures 49, 50, 51, 52, 53, and
54, Figures 49 and 50 being end elevations of the figure of the loom
and the said mechanism; Figure 51, a front elevation of the same; and
Figures 52, 53, and 54, details. The nipper staff J, Figure 51, is operated
by a strap h attached in the middle to the under side, and passing over the

page_text: two rollers V, V, in the lay, the two ends wind in opposite directions on
the flanged drum o on the shaft g, which is made to revolve in its bearings
in the stands B, B, in opposite directions alternately by means of the
pinion geer 65 on the end of said shaft and the segmental rack fs on the
end of the lever R3; this lever swings vertically on the pivot n by motion
proceeding from the revolution of the crank studs d4 and 24 on the main
shaft D, and adapted by means of the cams a, a, a, and e, e, e, to produce
the requisite extent and rapidity of movement of the segmental rack at
the proper time to impart a definite and positive reciprocating movement
to the nipper staff at and within the time and to the extent required for
the performance of its peculiar function. The studs d4 and a are formed
on two arms extending from the crank pin that operates the lay, as
shown in Figures 52 and 53. The stud d traverses the cam surface a, a, a
in the path indicated by arrows.
The stud a traverses the cam surface
e, e, e, and in so doing simply assists in supporting the weight of the
lever R and its segmental rack while the stud d' is passing the extreme
points of its stroke at F, F.
Figures 49 and 51 represent the several parts of the mechanism in their
true position at the completion of the nipper's retreating movement to
draw the weft into the warp. In the advancing movement which follows
the stud d will traverse that portion of the cam a, a, which is an arc
described from the centre of motion at the axis of the shaft D, and conse-
quently no motion is imparted to the lever R2 by the continued revolution
of the stud d' during the simultaneous forward beat of the lay and opening
of the shed. But when the stud d4 arrives near the point F it bears
against the opposite surface of the cam a, causing the lever to swing
rapidly downwards and revolve the shaft q rapidly in the direction indi-
cated by the arrow, by means of which the nipper accomplishes its
advancing movement with about one quarter of a revolution of the main
shaft. As the stud d4 passes the point F the stud at enters upon the cam
surface e, e, as seen in Figure 50, and supports the weight of the lever R2
until the stud d4 has progressed so far in its revolution as to have entered
upon the inclined curve of the cam a, continuing which the lever R2 is
swung upwards during the next quarter of a revolution, thereby with-
drawing the nipper from the shed as it closes, and the lay beats up the
weft which has been deposited thereon when the stud d' arrives at the
point F5, and the studenters upon the lower surface e, and so supports
the weight of the lever until the stud has began to traverse again the
circular portion of the cam a, as and for the purpose before explained

page_text: The drum o is arranged to slide on the shaft q endwise to accommodate
itself to the swinging movement of the lay,, to which it is for this purpose
connected by the shipper &, fastened to the beam G with its forked end
entering the grooved collar S on the drum, the latter being secured so as
to slide upon and yet turn with the shaft 9 by a splice cut in the hub of
the drum, and fitting the key i, let into the shaft. Instead of forming the
cams a and e on the lever and the studs d' and on the crank pin, a cam
of the proper contour may be attached to and revolve with the crank pin,
and the stud d' and its auxiliary x, if it is required, may be attached to
or project from the lever R², or by using an excentric upon the shaft D to
impart the swinging movement to the lay the said cam may be secured on
the end of the shaft D, either arrangement involving only a skilfull
adaptation of the specified means to the end to be accomplished without
further invention.
The mechanism which performs the next part of the Invention, to wit,
controlling the letting off the warps is represented in Figures 58, 59,
and 60 of the Drawings; Figures 58 and 59 being end elevations of a
portion of the framework of the loom and the mechanism arranged there-
with; Figure 60 is an elevation of the rear of the locm.
A is the frame of the loom; B is the yarn beam; G, the whip roll; and K
is the warp passing from the yarn beam over the whip roll. The "let-off"
mechanism consists of the worm gear D on the yarn beam and its worm e
on the vertical shaft h, which is revolved by intermittent movements by
means of the ratchet wheel m thereon aud the pawl a on the arm g, which
is connected by the rod p to the sword of the lay, whence it derives a
vibrating motion with each beat of the lay, which is transmitted by the pawl
to the ratchet and thence to the worm gear and yarn beam each time a
weft is beaten up by the lay, and in order to control the letting off of the
warps by the tension of the same, so that the progress of the warps shall be
uniform and the texture of the goods even and uniformly close, the end of
the whip roll lever s is connected by a rod v to a multiplying lever n
pivoted at c. The long arm of this lever is connected by a chain or cord i
passing over the roller r to the pawl a of the let-off ratchet wheel m, and
bing thus arranged, it will be seen that an extreme tension of the warps
will depress the whip roll and its lever and the short arm of the lever a to
which it is connected, the degree of depression which is multiplied in
the long arm of this lever, whereby a considerable range of motion is
obtained at the end of this arm where it is connected with the pawl a,
which motion is applied in connection with an inclination which is given

page_text: to the portion of the chain connection next to the pawl to lifting the
pawl a greater or less distance out of the ratchet, and determining in the
forward movement of the pawl to engage with and move the ratchet, the
time of engagement and the extent of the movement of the ratchet,
whether of one tooth of the ratchet or more than one, according to the
degree of tension of the warps. It will be seen by reference to Figures
58 and 59 that the portion of the connecting chain or cord i next to the
pawl a is inclined from a perpendicular at the extreme of the rearward
movement of the pawl, and that it approaches a perpendicular in making
its forward movement, and it is owing to this mode of arranging the
connection to vibrate from a perpendicular to an incline rearward and
thence to a perpendicular or nearly so forward that the pawl is made to
engage with the ratchet at the proper time to move the latter to the
extent of one tooth or more according to the tension of the warps.
Another mode of producing the same result is shewn in Figures 60*
and 60**; Figure 60* denoting an end elevation of portion of a loom, and
Figure 60** being a plan of the ratchet wheel herein-after mentioned. On
one of the journals of the whip roller g is secured a bell-crank lever G¹,
to one end of which is secured a rod G2, the other end of which is
secured to a weighted lever G³; this keeps the warps at one tension. To
the other end of the bell-crank lever G¹ is fixed another rod G+, the lower
end of which works in a slotted lever G5, the opposite end of which
carries a guard G, which plays to and fro over the face of the ratchet
wheel G, from which motion is given to the warp roller as shown.
Should the warps become too tight the pressure exerted by them on
the whip roller will become greater than that exerted by the weighted
lever G³, this will cause the bell-crank lever to turn on its centre and so
move the guard from the face of the ratchet wheel and allow the pawl G8
to take into its teeth, and so give the required motion to the warp beam;
the pawl is carried by a bracket fixed to the shaft G9, and to this bracket
is attached a lever carried by the batten to give the necessary movement to
the pawl.
The mechanism of the next part of this Invention in relation to the
means of controlling the action of the several sets of heddles by the supply
of weft to the warp is represented in Figures 61, 62, 63, 64, 65, 66 of the
Drawing; in which Figure 61 is an elevation of part of a hair cloth loom
with the improvements attached; Figure 62 is a view of a connection
between the gear that operates the heddles and the main shaft of the loom ;
Figure 63, a lever which operates the clutch; Figure 64, a cam on the

page_text: main shaft operating a bell crank; Figure 65, a view of the means by which
the motion of the cam may be communicated to the rock shaft upon
which is the clutch lever; and Figure 66 is a side view of a "signal
messenger" (so called) with its guide frame used in the improvement, a
front view of the same appearing in Figure 65.
In the Drawings (Figure 61) a forward and backward motion is com-
municated to the lay frame by the driving pulley in the ordinary way, and
by toothed gears motion is transmitted from the driving pulley shaft to
shaft B. Figure 62, which revolves once to every two revolutions of the
pulley shaft B, is connected with the gear which operates the sets of
heddles by the clutch h, h. But one kind of gear for giving motion to the
sets of heddles is represented in the Drawings. It will, however, be
evident to those skilled in the art that this improvement can be readily
applied to looms provided with other contrivances for working the heddles
the clutch coupling h, h, is capable of being operated by the application of
force to the arm ƒ (Figures 61 and 65) keyed upon a rock shaft G
(Figures 62, 63, 65), the clutch being in connection with the rock shaft G
as represented in Figure 63, while a weight or spring located at any con-
venient place keeps the clutch closed. On the main shaft B of the loom
is keyed a cam D, Figure 64, of such form as to give through the bent
lever C an alternating motion to the upper end of the bell-crank lever L,
Figure 65, in a line parallel or nearly so with the axis of the main shaft B,
Figure 62, at every beat of the lay; on the same fulcrum pin with the bell-
crank lever L, Figure 61, 65, is placed the bent lever 1, 1; the lower
end of this lever bears against a wrist pin in the rock shaft arm f, and its
upper end is furnished with a catch link M, pivoted on a projection at y,
the handle of the catch link projects far enough to be inserted and play
easily in the hand M of the "signal messenger," Figure 66 (as repre-
sented in Figure 65). The under side of the catch link is curved inward,
so that the lever L in its backward movement (coincident or nearly so
with the backward beat of the lay), bearing against the curved side of the
link, raises the catch, and with it the "signal messenger" W, and sustains
both in that position until after the hook has presented itself for a hair and
commenced its retreat. If the hair or other filling has been drawn into
the shed by the hook or other device used for the purpose, the "signal
messenger "in the decent (the lay now beating forward) will, by means
of the cross wire Z, Figure 66, be arrested by the hair and be supported by
it, and consequently the catch of the link M will be held beyond the range
of motion of the lever L. All the parts of the loom are thus permitted to

page_text: operate. If, however, the hair is not drawn into the shed by the hook or
other instrument used for this purpose, the "signal messenger" descends
as far as to drop the catch of the link M within the area of vibration of
the end of lever L, when levers L and 1, 1, being thereby connected, the
motion of L is imparted through the rock shaft G, Figure 62, to the
arm b, b, Figure 63, and the heddle gear disconnected from the main shaft
of the loom before the lay has beat up against the cloth or the shed
changed. The beat of the lay is not, however, interrupted, and whenever
the hook nipper or other device draws in the hair between the warps the
action of the several sets of heddles recommences. It should be observed
that it is not desirable in this class of looms to have the whole machine
stop,as that would not only involve the necessity of manual action on the
part of the attendant to put it in motion again, but a much greater dis-
advantage would be the result from the fact that the operator would be
obliged to back the loom far enough to throw the hook beyond the
selvidge in order to hook on or seize the hair or weft before starting the
machine.
It is obvious that the principle above described can be successfully and
with advantage applied to any description of loom of this class employing
several sets of heddles, though the form, position, and operation of the
several parts to effect the result may be greatly varied, as, for instance, the
set of heddles may be operated by cams working treadles, in which case
the cam shaft should be distinct from the main shaft and capable of being
connected with it, and the form and arrangement of the several parts of any
improvement should be adapted to meet such change. Again, revolving
gears connecting with the main shaft or other revolving parts of the loom
may be substituted in place of lever L, one of which could be furnished
with pinions in its face at such distance as to act upon the disconnecting
lever when brought in contact with any one of them. The plan, however,
which I have exhibited in the Drawings I consider the best and simplest,
and therefore I have described it minutely. I also contemplate the
application of this principle to hair cloth looms having a jacquard attached
to control the movement, of the sets of heddles for weaving figured hair
cloth, so that the failure to insert a single hair of the filling will disconnect,
by substantially the same means as those above described, the jacquard from
the other parts of the loom, and thereby stop the heddles and leave the right
shed open until the hair or weft is properly inserted. I have also successfully
made lever 1, 1, at the same time that it was called into action to open the
clutch, raise the pawl that usually works the "take-up" beam clear of

page_text: the ratchet during the forward beat of the lay, and that while the heddles
were stopped prevent the cloth from being wound upon the beam.
Another mode of controlling the action of the heddles or harness by
continually repeating the opening of the same shed to which the hair or
weft has failed to be supplied until the weft is duly supplied (as exhibited
in Figures 67, 68 69, 70). of the Drawings, in which Figure 67 is an end
elevation of a loom to which this improvement is applied, certain portions
of the loom being omitted to give an unobstructed view of the improved
portion; (Figure 68) is a front elevation of the loom with the immediate
front of the frame removed; (Figure 69) is a vertical section through the
loom parallel with the warp; (Figure 70) is a plan of the loom with the
arch, upper part of the treadles, and the top rail of the lay removed to
expose the parts below. In said Drawings, A is the frame of the loom; B
is the crank shaft driving the lay L by the usual crank connections c, c,
and gearing with a parallel shaft D by spur gears E, E, so proportioned
that the shaft D makes one revolution for every one of B. The shaft D
carries a bevel gear K, which gears with two bevel gears M, M¹, on the
harness cam shaft O, which is arranged horizontally at right angles to the
shaft D, and which carries the five cams P1, P2, P3, P4, P5, for operating
the five treadles Q1, Q2, Q3, Q, Q, which work the five principal leaves of
heddles. The shaft O is connected by the gears W and R to the shaft
S, which carries the cams N1, N2, for operating the treadles T1, T2, which
work the selvedge heddles. The gearing is also proportioned that one of
the treadles Q1, Q2, Q3, Q, Q5, and one of the treadles T, T³, are acted
upon by their respective cams during each complete movement of the lay
back and forth. All the above-mentioned parts are constructed and applied
in substantially the same manner as in other well-known hair cloth looms.
The "repeat motion" (so called) may be described as follows:-The cam
shaft o is revolved by means of a bevel gear K on the end of shaft D and
two equal gears M, M', on the shaft O, between which a double clutch U
is arranged to connect the motion of one or other of the gear M (which
revolve steadily in opposite directions) to the cam shaft at the proper
time. This clutch is operated for this purpose by means of the shipper
lever V swinging on the stud d projecting from the side of the frame of
the loom. The upper end of the shipper lever is forked in the form
shown, and embraces the cam X on the shaft B (Figures 67 and 70), by
which the shipper lever is operated at the proper time to clutch and
unclutch the gears M and M¹ from the shaft O, and thereby reverse its
revolutions and prevent the opening of the next shed. When the weaving

page_text: progresses properly the gear M' is clutched to and revolves the shaft
regularly in one direction, as indicated by the arrow in Figure 68. But
when a hair or weft fails to be supplied to the open shed the clutch is
shifted to the other gear M, and the cam shaft thereby reversed and made
to reopen the same shed repeatedly until the weft is duly supplied. This
result is produced automatically by bringing the offset prong p of the
shipper fork in contact with the revolving cam X on shaft B, which swings
the shipper lever sufficiently to shift the clutch, to accomplish this the
shipper lever is made to slide on its stud d against the action of a spiral
spring on the stud between the lever and the frame by means of the lever
Y hinged near the fork e and pivoted at g, Figure 67, and formed with an
inclined surface on its opposite free end. This lever Y is swung by
means of the lever pivoted to the lay and swinging clear of the said
inclined surface (h) by the position at which it is maintained by the lever
arm m, n, swinging on the stud l, Figure 69, which is lifted by the stud
t on the sword L of the lay acting on the inclined offset 7 of the lever arm
against the action of the spring P at the end thereof, said arm being by
this means lifted at each backward beat of the lay as the stud passes over
the incline, and depressed by the forward beat of the lay by the spring P,
at the same time depressing the end of the lever v and removing it from
contact with the inclined surface h of the lever Y so long as the weaving
progresses regularly by the weft being duly supplied to the open shed, and
the failure of this supply is made to actuate and govern the shifting move-
ment of the clutch through the medium of the above-described mechanism
by means of the arm m, extending upward from the stud and forming part
of the arm n, the upper end of this arm m has a flat projection on one side,
which is shown in Fgure 68, aud this projection is made to catch the end
of the lever on the bracket z, on the other end of which lever is formed
the prongs of the filling fork i. Beneath this fork i on the lay, and at one
side of the path of the filling hook or nipper, are arranged a number of
prongs k, k, k, between which the prongs of the filling fork passes as the
lay beats under it, and the parts being thus arranged, when the hair or
weft is drawn into the shed by the hook it is drawn across in front of the
prongs k, and as the lay beats forward the filling fork prongs i come in
contact with the hair, which trips the lever (Figure 69), and depresses
its other end from coming in contact with the projection on the arm m,
which arm is allowed in consequence to swing forward, and with it the
arm to swing downward and to depress the lever v from contact with the
incline surface h of the lever Y, and the condition of the moving parts

page_text: which it actuates and controls remain unchanged, and the operation of
the loom proceeds. Should the filling hook, however, fail to draw the
hair or weft past the prongs k, k, into the open shed, the filling fork i
would pass the prongs k, k, without tripping its lever j, which would
remain in the position shown in Figure 69, so that its end would catch the
projection on the arm m, and thereby hold it in the position shown, and
the arm elevated to the position shown, which would relieve the lever v
of its ordinary depression, so that its end would come in contact with the
incline surface h, with the forward beat of the lay, and swing the lever Y,
and slide the shipper lever fork e into engagement with the cam X, which
in revolving would shift the clutch to the other gear M, whereby the
revolution of the shaft O and the cams Q thereon would be reversed and
moved back, and by so doing partially close and then reopen the
same shed, in order that the succeeding movement of the nipper may
insert a weft therein before the weaving proceeds. If the weft is not
inserted with the next beat of the lay the reopening of the shed is repeated.
But when the weft is duly drawn into the warp the several parts resume
their former position, and continue to operate as before explained.
The mechanism of the next part of this Invention for clipping or
trimming the broken ends of weft from hair cloth is represented in
Figures 71, 72, 73 of the Drawings, in which Figure 71 is a front
elevation of the trimming machine with a portion of the framing
removed to give an unobstructed view of the trimming instruments;
Figure 72 is a section of the same; and Figure 73 is a section of the
trimming instrument. This instrument consists of a shaving blade a and a
deflector b, which is an inclined metal surface placed at an angle with and
just above the cutting edge of the blade. As represented in Figure 73, the
deflector forms part of a clamp H, between which and the metal foot piece
n of the shaving bar N the blades a are held by means of the set screw i, i, i.
A series of these shaving bars are mounted in a sliding frame G above a
stationary table B, over which the hair cloth is drawn from the cloth beam
D by means of a winding roller F, as shown in Figure 72. As the hair
cloth passes over the flat surface of the table the series of shaving instru-
ments are reciprocated rapidly in the direction of the length of the hair or
weft and close to the surface of the cloth, and by this means the protruding
ends of the broken weft (which result from various causes in weaving) are
deflected against the shaving blades and trimmed off close to the surface
of the cloth, in the manner shown in Figure 73. The sliding frame which
carries the shaving bars N is operated by means of the crank R, to which

page_text: it is connected by the rod O, said crank being revolved by means of the
system of gearing T, T, connecting with the driving shaft C. The extent
of motion given to the shaving blades by this means exceeds somewhat the
distance between the blades of two adjoining shaving bars, so that the
cutting blades may sweep over the entire surface of the cloth, and thus
ensure the removal of all the protruding ends.
Having now described and ascertained the nature of these several
improvements, and the manner of carrying the same into effect, I wish it
understood that what I claim as the Invention secured to me by the above
recited Letters Patent is,-
-
First, of the mechanism for opening and separating the crude hair, the
combination of the revolving cylinder as described for carrying the hair,
and the sliding hackle for opening the same, constructed and operating
substantially as described.
I also claim the mode of doubling the bunches of hair over a metal rod
or its equivalent, and confining the same to the cylinder by suitable
gripping appliances as described.
Second, of the drawing and assorting mechanism, the combination
of a bed or apron for containing and presenting the mass of hair or other
weft with a pair of jaws suitably constructed for seizing a number of hairs
by one of their ends and drawing them from the mass, as described.
Also, in combination with a pair of jaws operating to draw hairs from a
mass as described, a bed or rack, or its equivalent, for receiving the hairs as
they are drawn from the mass, and in combination with such bed or rack
I claim a rake or gatherer, as described, for gathering into a bunch the
hairs that are deposited on the bed, as described.
I also claim the mode of operation as specified by which the mass of
hair to be drawn and assorted into lengths is first placed on the sliding bed
or apron and the hairs drawn therefrom without regard to their length, and
afterwards again placed on the bed or apron, and with the ends by which
it was first drawn out placed evenly together on a line, and drawing from
the opposite end of the mass first the long hair, followed by bunches of
shorter hair as the drawing progresses, substantially as described.
Third, I claim coating the switch end or smaller portion of horsehair
with glue or other suitable material or compound to increase the size
thereof, substantially as described.
Fourth, I claim dressing the prepared hair before weaving with melted.
tallow or other suitable fatty material or compound, substantially as
described.

page_text: And as regards the improvements in mechanism for serving and weaving
horsehair I claim,-
First, preserving the end of the hair which is to be operated upon by
the serving instrument from being moistened with the rest of the bunch,
substantially in the manner described.
Second, I claim the use of a sheath of woollen cloth or other suitable
material for preserving the bunch of hair in a moist condition while it is
being served to the loom.
Third, I claim holding the bunch of hair while serving it in a curved
or curved inclined position, substantially as and for the purpose described.
Fourth, I claim the construction and mode of operation of the mechanism
for confining and compressing the hair or weft beneath the serving instru-
nient, as herein described.
Fifth, I claim the modes herein described of constructing and operating
the two parts of the serving instrument in such a manner that both shall
be plunged into the compressed portion of the bunch and gather from
thence a number of hairs, out of or from amongst which one hair shall be
caught in the notch of the lance and held therein by the pad aside from
the mass in the proper position to be drawn into the warps by the nipper
or other instrument for the purpose.
Sixth, I claim so combining and arranging the serving instrument and
the nipper or its substitute and the bunch of hair, that the end of hair that
is selected from the bunch by the serving mechanism may be deflected
therefrom and held across the track or path of the nipper, which is thus
enabled to seize the weft between the selecting instrument and the bunch
to draw it into the warp, substantially as described.
Seventh, I claim controlling the operations of the serving mechanism
by means of a detector constructed and operated substantially as
described.
Eighth, I claim the mode of operation, substantially as specified, by which
in case the serving instrument fails to select and present a hair or weft to
the instrument that places it in the open shed during the period allotted
therefor, its selecting function is in consequence thereafter suspended.
during any determined number of picks, and resumed with the reopening
of the proper shed, and so continues to suspended and resume its function
automatically until a length of hair or weft is selected and inserted
in the proper shed, and to do so repeatedly as often as such contingency
occurs.
Ninth, I claim the mode of operation of closing the shed upon the weft

page_text: immediately after drawing it between the warps and in advance of the
closing the shed by the regular operation of the heddles, substantially as
described for the purpose specified.
Tenth, I claim so combining and arranging a multiplying lever with
suitable connections between the whip roll and the pawl of the ratchet that
exerts the movement to let off the warp, that the depression of the whip
roll produced by the tension of the warp is multiplied and transmitted to
the pawl, and with the inclination which is given to the connection between
the lever's end and the pawl by the retreating movement of the latter
preparatory to engaging with the ratchet the pawl is lifted more or less
from the ratchet, and thereby inade to engage with and move the ratchet
to the extent of one tooth or more, according to the degree of tension on
the warps.
I also claim the mode of transmitting motion from the whip roller to
the warp beam by the means as described with respect to Figures 60×
and 60**.
Eleventh, and in relation to the means for controlling the operation of
the heddles by the supply of weft, I wish it to be understood that I do not
limit myself to the special construction and arrangement of the parts as
described, but I claim all merely formal variations performing the same
mode of operation by equivalent means.
What I do claim as the Invention is the mode of operation, substantially
as specified, by means of which in case the hook, nipper, or other instrument
used to insert the hair or weft of the cloth fails to seize and draw in any
one hair or other material intended, a disconnection is in consequence
effected between the gear that controis the action of the several sets of
heddles and the source of motion before the relative positions of the
several sets of heddles to each other are shifted and a new shed opened,
while the other parts of the loom are permitted to continue in operation,
as herein set forth.
And I also claim the mode of operation, substantially as specified, by
means of which the "signal messenger," Figure 66, during the backward
beat of the lay is returned to such a position that whenever the hair or
other inaterial is inserted between the threads of the warp where it belongs,
the gear which controls the action of the several sets of heddles is again
put in motion, as set forth.
I also claim the "signal messenger" constructed, applied, and operated
in the manner and for the purpose substantially as described.
Twelfth, I claim the mode of operation, substantially as specified, by

page_text: means of which in case the supply of weft fails as the shed is opened to
receive it, the same shed is wholly or in part closed and then reopened,
and so continues to operate until the weft is duly supplied thereto, after
which the change is made which opens the succeeding shed.
Thirteenth, in relation to the mechanism for clipping or trimming the
protruding broken ends from hair cloth, I claim the combination of a
shaving blade and a deflector, or its equivalent, for deflecting the protruding
hairs against the edge of the blade as the instrument moves over the
surface of the cloth, substantially as described.
I also claim the employment of a gang or series of the said trimming
instruments in combination with a suitable bed or table over which the
cloth is carried by suitable means, the whole being and operating substan-
tially as shewn and described,
In witness whereof, I, the said George Tomlinson Bousfield, have
hereunto set my hand and seal, this Twenty-ninth day of November,
in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-five.
GEO. T. BOUSFIELD. (L.S.)