Improved Apparatus for Moulding the Beading Used for the Scollops of Button Boots and Shoes.
Year: 1886

page_text: Date of Application, 16 th Aug., 1886
Complete Left, 14th May, 1887.
Complete Accepted, 14th June, 1887
Improved Apparatus for Moulding the Beading Used for the Scollops
of Button Boots and Shoes.
I ARTHUR KEATS of 41 Gaol Road, Stafford, Machine Maker, do hereby declare
the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
The object of this invention is to facilitate the moulding of the strips of kid or
other soft leather used to form the beading for the indented edges of button boots
and shoes.
It is commonly the practice to cut the flap which carries the button holes with
an indented, or, as it is termed escaloped edge, from the resemblance of the outline
to the edge of an escalop shell. This flap is composed of two thicknesses of
leather, and between the indented edges the leather beading is inserted.
Now the object of the present invention is to provide a simple arrangement of
apparatus for doubling short strips of leather, and inoulding them to a suitable shape
for the bead of an escalop.
To this end I construct a hand lever press, the plunger of which presses upon a loose
part of a fixed die made fast to the bed of the press. The fixed part of the die is
U shaped in plan view, open at front, and closed at its sides and back. In a trans-
verse slot in the back of the die, a horizontal slide is introduced, which forms part of
the die, and serves to project the moulded bead out of the front of the die.
The fixed die is filled by a vertical block, which is held in position by a depressing
spring, but is capable of yielding vertically to the under thrust of a horizontal
shaping blade or former working in guides set opposite to the open front of the fixed
die. This former is actuated by a treadle, and it is drawn back to its quiescent position
by the tension of a coiled spring. Immediately above the vertical block of the die,
the press plunger is situated, and attached to this plunger is a cutting blade, which
slides over the vertical face of the front of the die, and is intended to shear off the
ends of the moulded beading.
The strip of leather to be moulded is presented to the edge of the former and
strained over that edge by the attendant, so as to double or lap over its curved edge.
The former is then moved forward by the treadle action, and thrust into the die, the

page_text: block yielding to permit of the insertion of the leather in the die. When the pres-
sure is released from the treadle, the former is withdrawn from the die, leaving the
inserted leather therein.
By applying pressure to the lever handle, the plunger is caused to force down the
die block into close contact with the moulded leather, and give it a set shape. At the
same time the knife carried by the plunger will shear off the ends of the moulded
strip, thus gauging its length to the requirements of the case.
So soon as the pressure is removed from the lever handle, the moulded bead is
ready to be discharged from the die. For this purpose, the slide before mentioned as
forming part of the back of the die, is brought into action. This slide is connected
to a fixed point below the bed of the press by means of a tension spring, and it is
locked in its back or moulding position by means of a locking pin. This pin receives
from a coiled spring a tendency to interlock with the slide, and it is lifted out of contact
therewith by the operation of a fork; this fork is carried by the die block upon
which also is pivotted a small lever.
This lever projects over a fixed portion of the die, which forms a fulcrum for it
when the lever is tipped by the finger of the attendant.
By pressing up the tail of this lever, the block is raised clear of the moulded bead,
and at the same time the locking pin is raised clear of the slide.
So soon as the slide is released, it will, under the tension of its spring advance
and push the moulded bead out of the die.
The strip, as it leaves the moulding die, will be of a U shape, and have sufficient
stiffness to retain that shape while being applied to the boot flap.
Dated this 16th day of August 1886.
NEWTON & SON,
Agents for the Applicant.

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improved Apparatus for Moulding the Beading Used for the Scollops
of Button Boots and Shoes.
I ARTHUR KEATS of 41, Gaol Road, Stafford, Machine Maker, do hereby declare
the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
The object of this invention is to facilitate the moulding of the strips of kid or
other soft leather used to form the beading for the indented edges of button boots
and shoes. It is commonly the practice to cut the flap which carries the button holes
with an indented, or, as it is termed, escaloped edge, from the resemblance of the outline
to the rounded edges of a series of escalop shells. This flap is composed of two
thicknesses of leather, and between the indented edges of the leather, the beading is
inserted.
Now the object of the present invention is to provide a simple arrangement of
apparatus for doubling short strips of leather and moulding them to a suitable-shape
for the bead of a scollop.
In the accompanying drawings,-
Fig. 1 is a side elevation of the bead-moulding machine.
Fig. 2 is a front view of the same; and
Fig. 3 is a sectional plan on the line 12 of Fig. 1, the pressing block of the mould
being removed.
In these Figures, A represents the base of the machine or press. B is a bracket
standard cast therewith, and fitted with a tubular casing to receive a plunger rod C.
D is a hand lever pivotted to the bracket standard B, and formed with a cam shaped
head, which bears upon the top of the plunger rod, and is intended to depress it on
the pulling down of the lever.
Surrounding the rod C, and contained in the tubular case C, is a coiled spring,
which gives the plunger rod C a tendency upwards, and holds it in contact with the
cam of the hand lever. Immediately below the rod C, and fitted to the bed plate, is
the die or mould E, into which fits a loose block E' connected to the plunger rod by
a coiled spring, which, while it retains the block in place in the die, even when not in
use, permits of its yielding vertically to allow of the insertion, below it, of the strip
of leather which is to be moulded to an escalop form.
The die or mould E is U-shaped in plan view (see the detached views Figs. 4 and 5),
it being open at front, and closed at its sides and back. In a slot made through the
back of the die, a horizontal slide e is introduced, the same forming part of the die E,
and serving to project the leather, when moulded, out of the front of the die.
This slide is locked in its back position (as shewn in the sectional view Fig. 4") by
a vertically sliding bolt el, which passes through the die and a hole in the slide, and
is held down in action by a coiled spring confined in a recess formed in the die to
receive it. This bolt passes through a forked pivot pin e³, and it is formed with a
shoulder for the fork to catch under. This pivot pin is carried by the pressing
block E, and serves itself to carry the lever E³, the depression of which upon the
top of the die or mould effects the rise of the pressing block E', and at the same time
disengages the bolt e¹ from the slide e. The result of this depression of the lever E

page_text: is to bring into action a plunger et fitted into the standard B in rear of the slide e,
and held against it by a coiled spring, which yields when the slide e is forced back
from the advanced position of Fig. 6 to the position of Fig. 4", where it is locked.
When the bolt e' is raised clear of the slide e, the recoil of the spring e will cause
the plunger e to force forward the slide, with the result illustrated at Figs. 4 and 5.
Fis a horizontal shaping blade or former working in guides set opposite to the open
front of the die E, its use being to double the strip of leather presented to the moulding
press, and to assist in the shaping of it to a scollop bead. This shaping plate F is
slotted to receive the longer arm of a bell crank lever F, which is pivotted to a
bracket underlying the bed plate A. A link pivotted to the short arm of this bell
crank lever serves to connect it with a treadle, not shewn in the drawings, the
depression of which will cause the shaping plate F to advance and enter the die or
mould E. On the removal of pressure from the treadle, a coiled spring connecting
the bell crank with the horn of the bracket, below the bed plate, will draw back the
shaping plate F to its normal position, as shewn at Fig. 1. G is a gas supply pipe,
terminating in a jet for heating the die or mould. A transverse crease or recess in
this mould is made to receive the strip of leather to be moulded to shape and subjected
to the action of the heated press.
This transverse crease or recess is clearly shewn in the several detached Figures.
The strip of leather to be moulded is presented to the mould by the attendant in
front of the retired former, so as, by the advance of the former, to double or lap over
its curved edge. The former, as it is advanced by the treadle action, thrusts the
leather forward to the back of the die, the block yielding, by rising, to permit of
the insertion of the leather in the die. When the pressure is released from the treadle,
the former F is withdrawn from the die, leaving the inserted leather therein.
By applying pressure to the lever handle, the plunger rod C is caused to force
down the die block E' into close contact with the moulded leather, and give it the
set shape required. So soon as the pressure is removed from the lever handle, the moulded
bead is ready to be discharged from the die. For this purpose, the slide e, forming
part of the back of the die, is brought into action. To allow of this, the head of the
lever E is brought down into contact with the die, and the block E' is lifted
clear of the work, and at the same time the slide is unlocked. The plunger e* will
then cause the slide suddenly to advance, and thrust the moulded leather out of
the die.
The strip, as supplied to the machine, and as discharged therefrom in its moulded
state, is illustrated at Figs. 7. When it has been subjected to the action of the press,
a stiffness will be imparted to it sufficient to enable it to retain the moulded shape
while being applied to the boot flap.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said invention,
and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I claim is :-
1. The arrangement of apparatus as described with reference to the drawings, for
moulding the beading used for scollops of button boots and shoes.
2. In combination with a fixed mould or die and pressing block, a former and a
slide acting in opposite directions, and serving, the one to press into shape the leather
to be moulded, and the other to discharge the moulded leather from the inould or die.
Dated this 13th day of May 1887.
NEWTON & SON,
Agents for the Applicant.