In- PROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OR PRODUCTION OF PLAIN AND Fancy Nets AND LACES
Year: 1870

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Carter, of the Town and County of the
Town of Nottingham, Lace Merchant, for the Invention of "In-
PROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OR PRODUCTION OF PLAIN AND Fancy Nets
AND LACES."
Scaled the 30th May 1871, and dated the 1st December 1870.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Carter at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
1st December 1870.
I, WILLIAM CARTER, of the Town and County of the Town of
Nottingham, Lace Merchant, do hereby declare the nature of the said
Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OR PRODUCTION OF PLAIN
AND FANCY NETS AND LACES," to be as follows:-
These improvements relate, first, to nets or laces made on bobbin net
or twist lace machines, and consist in inserting one or more elastic or
india-rubber, cr other threads or cords in each breadth of net or lace
made on the machine. Suppose, for instance, I employ a bobbin net
or twist lace machine to make plain net or lace, which is to be cut into

page_text: "
certain widths when made; in each such width of net or lace I insert
one or more india-rubber or other elastic threads. At or near each
selvage of each breadth of net or lace, or in forming the selvage of each
breadth, and when other elastic threads are required between the selvages,
such threads as are worked in with the other threads which form the
net or lace are kept stretched, and are supplied from separate beams or
spoles. The elastic threads which are to form or act as draw threads
or selvage threads are supplied from one or moro beams, and the elastic
threads which are to be worked up as the warp threads usually employed
are kept stretched, and are supplied from other beams.
In bobbin net or twist lace machines I sometimes employ elastic
threads as above mentioned, working in conjunction with the warp
threads usually employed in such machinery, or I employ elastic threads
wholly instead of the warp threads usually employed. Besides em-
ploying elastic threads as above, I employ elastic threads instead of the
threads usually employed on the bobbins working in the carriages used
in bobbin net or twist lace machines in conjunction with the warp
threads usually employed therein, or I employ elastic threads on the
bobbins in the carriages, working with elastic warp threads, supplied
from warp beams and spoles.
Secondly. I employ elastic threads as warp threads, instead. of a
portion of the whole of the warp threads usually employed in the several
varieties of machines used in the manufacture of warp net or lace.
The elastic threads I employ either in the bobbin net or twist lace
machines or in the warp lace machines may be plain elastic threads,
or the elastic may be covered with cotton, silk, or other convenient
material as required. And these elastic threads I also use when con-
venient, either at the edge of each breadth or otherwise, and without
being inserted at the edge thercof.
I also employ elastic threads as above mentioned for producing fancy
nets, laces, insertions, grounds and breadths, on any of the machines
before mentioned.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said William Carter in the Great Seal Patent Office on
the 1st June 1871.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, WILLIAM
CARTER, of the Town and County of the Town of Nottingham, Lace
Merchant, send grecting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the First day of December, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy, in the thirty-
fourth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors,
give and grant unto me, the said William Carter, Her special licence
that I, the said William Carter, my executors, administrators, and
assigns, or such others as I, the said William Carter, my executors,
administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no
others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the term
therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the
Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for " IMPROVEMENTS IN
THE MANUFACTURE OB PRODUCTION OF PLAIN AND FANCY NETS AND LACES," upon
the condition (amongst others) that I, the said William Carter, my
executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or
their, or one of their hands and scals, should particularly describe and
ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the
same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great
Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately
after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said William Carter, do hereby declare
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement thereof, reference being had to the accompanying
Drawings, and to the letters and figures marked thereon, that is to
say:―
These improvements relate, firstly, to the nets and laces which are
made on bobbin net or twist lace machines in all their several varieties,
and consist in inserting one or more elastic or india-rubber or other
threads or cords in each breadth of net or lace made on the machine.

page_text: Suppose, for instance, I employ a bobbin net or twist lace machine to
make plain net or lace which is to be cut into certain widths when
made, in each such width of net or lace I insert one or more elastic
india-rubber or other clastic threads (herein-after called elastic threads
only). At or near each selvage of each breadth of net or lace or in
forming the selvage of cach such breadth and when other clastic threads
are required between the selvages, such clastic threads as are worked.
in with the other threads which form the net or laco are kept stretched
and are supplied from separate beams or spools. The elastic threads
which arc to form or act as draw threads or selvage threads are supplied 1
from one or more beams and the clastic threads which are to be worked
up the same as the warp threads usually employed are kept stretched
and are supplied from other beams.
In bobbin net or twist lace machines I employ elastic threads as
above mentioned working in conjunction with the warp threads usually 1
employed in such machinery, or I employ elastic threads wholly instead
of the warp threads usually employed. Besides employing clastic
threads as above mentioned I employ clastic threads instead of the
threads usually employed on the bobbins working in the carriages used
in bobbin net or twist lace machines in conjunction with the warp 2
threads usually employed therein whether the thread be silk, cotton, or
other convenient material, or I employ clastic threads on the bobbins in
the carriages working with clastic warp threads supplied from warp
beams and spools.
Secondly. I employ elastic threads as warp threads instead of a 2
portion of the whole of the warp threads usually employed in any of the
several varieties of machines used in the manufacture of warp net or
lace. The elastic threads which I employ cither in the bobbin net or
twist lace machines or in the warp lace machines may be plain clastic
threads, or the elastic may be covered with cotton, silk, or other con- 3
venient material as required. And these elastic threads I also purpose
using when convenient either at the edge of each breadth or otherwise
and without being inserted at the edge thereof. I also employ clastic
threads as above mentioned for manufacturing or producing fancy nets,
laces, insertions, grounds, and breadths on any of the machines before 3
mentioned.
V. T

page_text: Having thus set forth the nature of the said Invention I now
proceed, with reference to the accompanying Drawings, to describe more.
fully the manner of performing the same.
.
:
the terms
.
In order that my Invention may be more fully understood I describe.
its application first to fabrics made on the bobbin net or twist lace
machine; secondly, to fabrics made on the warp lace machine; and
thirdly, to fabrics made on looms or weaving machines. In describing
these applications severally I propose herein-after to use
elastic thread or threads, and to suppose such terms to mean an elastic
or non-clastic thread or threads of india-rubber or other convenient
material. When I employ a non-elastic india-rubber thread or threads.
such thread or threads will regain their elasticity when treated with hot
water in either of the processes of dyeing, dressing, or finishing the
several fabrics in which such thread is inserted, such elastic thread or
5 threads or non-elastic threads may be plain or covered with silk, cotton,
or other convenient material or it may be plain silk, cotton, or thread
cord of other convenient material covered with silk or cotton. Suppose
I am desirous of making hair nets on the bobbin net or twist lace
machine and I employ a six and a half point circular machine and the
O machine makes thirty-two motions to each hole of the net, the pillars
forming each half hole are formed by the carriages making eight back"
motions and eight front motions, and I wish to insert an elastic thread at
each selvage of each breadth, the bobbin threads and warp threads aré
twisted together in pairs until the required lengths of pillars are formed
5 to make one-half of cach hole of the square or other shaped net across
each breadth, then the outer bobbin threads of each breadth of fabric are
twisted once, twice, or more times round the elastic threads and also
round the warp threads which formed the pillars at each selvage, then
suitable lengths of pillars are formed as before for the other two sides of
O the holes, and then each pair of bobbin threads is passed round each
pair of warp threads once, twice, or more times, thus completing one row
of holes in each breadth of fabric and at the same time forming the half-
holes of the next row while the pillars are being formed by the bobbin
threads and warp threads. The clastic threads at the selvages of each
5 breadth have draw threads twisted alternately round each of them, such
draw threads being supplied from bobbins in carriages which move
between the two clastic threads at the edges of each breadth of fabric,

page_text: such elastic threads being supplied from a separate warp beam or from
spools. The draw threads are for the purpose of connecting the several
breadths of fabric while they are dyed, dressed, or finished, separate
breadths of fabric may be made on the machine without employing draw
threads to connect them together, such breadths have an elastic thread
or cord inserted at or near each selvage. And instead of or in addition
to such clastic threads at or near the selvages, I may prefer to insert one
or more elastic threads intermediately or otherwise in each breadth of
plain net, tying each elastic thread in with the two next adjacent bobbin
threads and their respective warp threads. When such fabrics are
intended to form hair nets after having been dyed; dressed, or finished,
if the fabrics are connected by a draw thread such thread is drawn out to
separate the breadths. Each breadth is then tied or knotted in suitable
lengths to form hair nets, thus saving the time and expense of inserting
the clastic in the nets by hand labour. I also propose to insert one or:
more elastic threads in the direction of the length of each breadth of
plain or fancy net lace, weaving insertion or edging, or in each length
forming a curtain, short blind, or other article, each such elastic thread
being tied in the fabric by the method above described, varying however
´as a matter of course according to the variety of work or net made on :
the machine. And in addition to the above described longitudinal
thread or threads, or instead of them, I sometimes insert a horizontal
clastic thread or threads at or near one or both ends or intermediately of
each length of fabric as will form a hair net, plain or fancy net lacc,
weaving insertion, edging curtain, short blind, or other article, such
additional thread or threads when the curtain, blind, or other article is
dyed, dressed, or finished will cause it to bo fulled or gathered at the top,'
bottom, sides, or other part where the thread is inserted by the said
thread contracting. The horizontal threads may be secured in the fabric
by being stretched across the machine and placed amongst the warp
threads so as to be lifted up by the points of the machine, or the elastic
thread may be placed in front or at the back of the warp threads and bo
secured by the passage of the bobbin threads to the back or to the front
of the machine. If the fabric having elastic threads inserted is intended
to be formed into hair nets the elastic thread or threads inserted longi-
tudinally in or near the selvages of the breadth as first described may bc
dispensed with and a plain thread of silk or cotton cord or other con-
venient material may be inserted instead. In some instances I prefer to

page_text: employ an elastic thread in one or more of the bobbins moved by the
carriages for making net or other fabrics in the twist lace machine.
Secondly. My improvements are applicable to the manufacture of
fabrics made on the warp net machine.
'
:
'
Figure 1 shows a transverse sectional view of the principal portions of
a warp machine as will enable me to explain my present improvement.
Suppose I employ a fourteen gauge machine of a well-known con-
struction consisting of a fixed needle bar supporting the needles A which
are cast in leads secured in the usual way, a frame carrying vertical
sinkers B, the frame being suspended from arms B', a presser bar C
attached to the presser spindle O' and a machine D which supports the
guide bars herein-after referred to, the machine being carried by, vertical
lever arms secured to a machine spindle bar D', the whole being operated
by cams on a shaft at the back of the machine in the usual way. For
inserting longitudinal elastic threads in the fabric I employ in addition
to the two guide bars E, F, for forming the net and the draw thread
guide bar G, a fourth guide bar H which slides in bearings H' secured to
the sinker bar above the clamping plates. The whole of the guide bars
may be operated by wheels at one end of the machine or by linked
chains or by a jacquard. Suppose the warp fabric a sixteen course net
divided into breadths of the required width for each breadth to form
when cut to a proper length one hair net, and each breadth to be con-
nected by a draw thread with the next adjacent breadth for the
convenience of dyeing, dressing, or finishing the piece, in such case if
wheels are employed at the left end of the machine to operate the guide
bars, such wheels will require to be of the forms shewn at Figures 2, 3, 4,
and 5. The two net bars E and F will have seven guides to each inch
in breadth of fabric and at the commencement both bars will slide tho
reverse way over the top of the needles and fall under, the needles
being operated by the wheels Figures 2 and 3. The draw thread guide-
bar G then passes under three needles to the right or to the left, then
the reverso way alternately, such movements being communicated to it
by the wheel shown at Figure 4. The elastic guide bar H which carries
a guide IT for each selvage of each breadth of fabric is supplied with
5 elastic thread from a warp beam above the machine or from separáte
spools, remains stationary during the first movement of the net bars, and
then falls one needle.during, the second motion of the net bars, and when:
"

page_text: the frame has pressed and the sinkers have been brought over the arch it
rises one needle, and then remains stationary, while the machine makes
seven courses of work, it then rises one needle, and then falls one needle,
and again remains stationary until the machine has made seven courses of
work, such movements being successively repeated. These movements of
the elastic guide bar are communicated by the wheel shewn at Figure 5.
I would have it distinctly understood that I do not confine myself to
the apparatus above mentioned for inserting the elastic thread or threads
in the selvages or other portions of the breadths, as I may sometimes
prefer to insert it by means of a guide bar placed above or beneath the
net bars, such bars being operated by wheels in the manner above
described; or instead of a guide bar I may employ a perforated steel bar;
I may moreover prefer to make each breadth separately and thus
dispense with the draw threads and the apparatus operating such threads;
I also propose to insert horizontal threads instead of or in addition to
the longitudinal threads above described, such horizontal threads I insert
in the fabric by stretching the said thread or threads under the heads of
the needles when the frame is back and the guides are below the needles,
the guides being then brought up through the needles and traversed
and again lowered through the needles, the machine being brought out
and the course being then pressed the elastic thread is secured in the
fabric.
Instead of or in addition to the elastic thread or threads inserted as
above described in warp net fabrics I sometimes prefer to use elastic
warp threads operated by the net guide bar or bars instead of the warp
threads usually employed, such elastic thread forming the whole or a
portion of the warp threads, such threads fulling or gathering the fabric
in the same manner as the fabrics made on the twist net machine.”
And, thirdly. For inserting elastic threads in fabrics woven in looms,
I purpose employing an additional shuttle for laying horizontal threads
across the fabrics and substituting longitudinal elastic threads for warp
threads at or near to the selvage or selvages of short blinds, flounces,
frillings, and breadths, such longitudinal threads being supplied from a
separate warp beam or from spools for the purpose of fulling or gathering.
the fabrics when dyed, dressed, or finished as before described.
Having now described the nature of the said Invention, and in what
manner the same may be performed, I declare that I claim, the improve-

page_text: ments in the manufacture or production of plain and fancy nets and
laces and weavings substantially as herein-before described.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Carter, have hercunto set
my hand and seal, this Twenty-ninth day of May, in the year of
our Lord One thousand cight hundred and seventy-one.
Witness,
GEO. JON. ROBINSON,
Patent Office,
Nottingham.
WILLIAM CARTER. (L.S.)