An Improved Manufacture of Embroidery.
Year: 1895

page_text: Date of Application, 10th Sept., 1895
Complete Specification Left, 10th June, 1896-Accepted, 22nd Aug.,
1896
An Improved Manufacture of Embroidery.
I, GOTTFRIED MÜLLER, Designer, of Herisau, near St. Gallen, in the
Republic of Switzerland, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as
follows:-
The improvement hereinafter described relates to the embroidery of designs
which are composed of a single or manifold repetition or reduplication of a strip of
embroidery, while nevertheless, all the successive repetitions, according to the
even numbers are symmetrically alternated with the successive repetitions
according to the odd numbers. Thus for example supposing the embroidery strip
to consist of single similar and similarly situated figures at regular intervals, the
figures in the one strip will fall similarly between those of the next adjoining
strip.
My process then consists in embroidering two such similar and alternating strips
at one and the same time.
For the carrying out of this improved process I employ for each setting of the
embroidery-mechanism (needle-holders, borer, pattern-punches, counter-pressure
plates, festoon wires) a second set of the same apparatus, which, while the first set
is embroidering a single strip with its related figures, at the same time embroiders
a second strip adjoining of the same figures, but so set as to alternate with the
other row.
To this end the two sets of simultaneously working apparatus are themselves
placed correspondingly opposite to each other.
Thus, simultaneously with a composite embroidery strip formed of specifically
related figures there exists by means of the present invention another similar strip
whereof the figures are identical with those of the first-named strip but alternate
symmetrically therewith. For the simultaneous obtention of such a double row
cach needle-holder bar of the embroidery machine carries the ordinary row of
suitably arranged pincers, which lie correspondingly higher than those for the
other strip and are correspondingly placed in symmetrical alternation therewith
(i.e. lie between them).
Similarly the bars (or pattern-punch bars) and the counter-pressure plates
thereunto belonging, which are articulated in a well-known manner so as to fold
back on the line of needle-supports, have also two corresponding transposed or
alternating rows of borers (or pattern-punches) and two rows of holes to
correspond.
The movable arms of all the needle-holders common to one row are advan-
tageously so formed that their hinder ends lie all in one straight line so as to
admit of their being operated by one and the same common eccentric.
Corresponding to the two rows of needle-holders of each row or line the two
simultaneously working organs of the so-called "festoon apparatus" i.e. the small
forks serving to receive a loop of a thread, and the counter-organs belonging
thereto and serving to keep open the said loop, must also be in a duplicated row.
In my improved apparatus the ordinary small forks alternate for this purpose
with higher ones which correspond to the supplementary or extra set of the
apparatus.
The counter-organs of the forks constitute a single wire frame consisting of two
parallel wires and thereon (e.y. by soldering) are fixed U-shaped wires having

page_text: their ends or cross bars formed slightly concave, so as to act as thread-carriers to
one set of the forks while the wire in its bays between the wire stays forins the
thread-carrier for the other fork.
It is however to be remarked further that the design need not consist only of
independent and separate figures but may form a connected pattern.
By the process hitherto in use, .e. with the ordinary simple arrangement of
the working parts of the embroidery machine, each row or series had to be
embroidered separately; whereas in this my new manufacture I embroider them
together.
Dated this 10th day of September 1895.
provo Manulature of boy.
I, GOTTFRIED MÜLLER, Designer of Herisau near St. Gallen in the Republic
of Switzerland do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement:-
The improvement hereinafter described relates to the embroidery of designs
which are composed of a single or manifold repetition or reduplication of a strip of
embroidery while, nevertheless all the successive repetitions, according to the
even number, are symmetrically alternated with the successive repetitions
according to the odd numbers. Thus for example, supposing the embroidery strip
to consist of single similar and similarly situated figures at regular intervals, the
figures in the one strip will fall similarly between those of the next adjoining
strip.
My process, then, consists in embroidering two such similar and alternating
strips at one and the same time.
For the carrying out of this improved process I employ, for each set of the
embroidery-mechanism (needle-holders, borer, pattern-punches, counter-pressure
plates, festoon-wires, such as are well known to all embroidery machine workers,)
a second set of the same apparatus, which, while the first set is embroidering a
single strip with its related figures, at the same time embroiders a second strip
adjoining but slightly shifted in position, possessing the same figures, i.e. the
figures in one row "break joint" with those in the other.
To this end, the two sets of simultaneously-working apparatus are themselves
correspondingly disposed.
.
On the accompanying drawings the arrangement is illustrated, by way of
example, and also for the better comprehension of the arrangement of the two
opposite rows of apparatus, and thereby is shown the manner in which my new
process is carried out.
Fig. 1 being a side elevation of the apparatus, and
Fig. 2 a front elevation of the same;
Figs. 3. and 4 illustrate an example of a modification of the two duplicated rows
of the simultaneously working festoon-organs.
Fig. 5. is an example. of the kinds of design, such as may easily be embroidered
by means of this present-invention, by the employment of duplicated and transposed
or alternating, rows of apparatus.
Thus, simultaneously with a composite embroidery strip formed of specifically.
related figures a. (Figs. 5 lower, balf) there is produced by means of the present
invention another similar, strip 1° whereof the figures are identical. with those
of the first-named strip 1, but alternate symmetrically therewith. For the

page_text: simultaneous production of such a double row, each needle-holder bar of the
embroidery machine carries the ordinary row of suitably arranged pincers, A°,
which lie correspondingly higher than those, A, for the other strip and are
correspondingly placed in symmetrical alternation therewith (i.e. lie between
them).
Similarly, the bars (or pattern-puuch bars) c and the counter-pressure plates d
thereto belonging, which are articulated in a well-known manner so as to fold
back on the line of needle supports, have also two corresponding transposed or
alternating rows of borers (or pattern-punches) C Co, and two rows of holes to
correspond D D°.
The movable arms of all the needle-holders A A° common to one row are
advantageously so formed that their hinder-ends lie all in one straight line, so as to
admit of their being operated by one and the same common eccentric e.
Corresponding to the two rows of needle-holders of each row or line, the parts
for producing festoons,-arc shaped figures bounding the piece of embroidery-
and well known to all embroidery workmen, must be present in double rows.
Accordingly, the two simultaneously-working organs of the so-called "festoon
apparatus," ie. the small forks serving to receive a loop of a thread, and the
counter-organs belonging thereto and serving to keep open the said loop, must also
be in a duplicated row. The small forks and their co-operating parts forming the
festoon tools are mounted on bars in the direction of the width of the embroidery
machine, or of the frame, in the same manner as they would be arranged if there
were only a single row of them, that is, not alternately, as hitherto.
In my improved apparatus the ordinary small festoon forks G (see Fig. 3)
alternate for this purpose with higher festoon forks Go, which correspond to the
supplementary or extra set of the apparatus A° C° Dº.
The parts as shown in Fig. 4, which is co-operate with the forks constitute a
single wire frame, consisting of two parallel wires f° and thereon (e.g. by
soldering) are fixed U-shaped wires g, having their ends or cross bars formed
slightly concave, so as to act as thread-carriers to one set of the forks G, while the
wire in its bays between the wire stays g forms the thread-carrier for the other
fork G. Fin Fig. 4 shows the two corresponding rows of embroidery-thread
passing through the embroidery holes.
It is, however, to be remarked, further, that the design need not consist only of
independent and separate figures, as appears in the lower half of Fig. 5, but may
form a connected pattern, as depicted in the upper half of the same fig.
Such a connected pattern is effected in this way;-While the row A. e.g. of
needle-holders embroider the figures a of row I or the connections I i.e. k or l, the
needles of the row of holders A° at the same time embroider the figures a° of row 1°.
or the connecting parts of the design 1°, i.e. ko or 1°.
By the process hitherto in use, i.e. with the ordinary simple arrangement of the
working-parts of the embroidery machine, each row I or 1° series had to be
embroidered separately; whereas in this my new manufacture I embroider them
together.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-.
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is;-
1. In embroidery-machines of the Heilmann type duplicate sets of apparatus
operating simultaneously and so situated relatively to each other as to produce two
equal and similar series of patterns one series being arranged to "break joint
with the other.
2. For carrying out the process of application specified in Claim 1 an apparatus
characterised by ;-
(a) Two rows of pincers alternating and "breaking joint" with each other on

page_text: with their hinder-ends all in one and the same row so that both sets or rows
are actuated by one and the same eccentric b.
(6) On common carrying bars a double series of festoon-forks thereto secured
in which high and low forks alternate with each other.
Deted this 10th day of June 1896
BOULT & WADE,
Agents for the Applicant.