IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES
Year: 1865

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Richard Mott Wanzer, of Cheapside, in the City of
London, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES."-A
communication from abroad by John Taibox, of Hamilton, Canada.
Sealed the 16th January 1866, and dated the 21st July 1865.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Richard Mott Wanzer
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on
the 21st July 1865.
I, RICHARD MOTT WANZER, of Cheapside, in the City of London, do
hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING
MACHINES," to be as follows.-
The chief object of this Invention is to form stitches over the edges of
fabrics The Invention consists in an arrangement hereafter described, whereby
the loops formed by the needle are taken after passing through the fabric and
carried over the edge by a vibrating hook with a slotted point, the thread
being left in such position that the needle in its next downward motion will
pass through the loop, and form what is termed the over-edge stitch, or "over
and over" glove stitch.
The Invention also consists in an arrangement by which the needle is
caused to perform the feed of the fabric. The accompanying Drawings will
enable my Invention to be fully understood.

page_text: Figures 1 and 2 are elevations of the two sides, and Figure 3 a plan with
the work plate removed of a sewing machine constructed according to the
present improvements.
A is the bed plate supporting standards B, B, at the back; one of these
standards carries an arm C, on which the presser foot D is fitted. Between
the standards B, B, is a transverse bar E, fiee to slide laterally, as hereafter
described, together with an arm F, which carries the needle. The bar E has
pivoted to it at G a vertical bar H, with a horizontal arm I, which carries
and tightens the thread. The lower end of the bar H has jointed thereto one
end of a horizontal rod J, the other end of which carries a roller riding in a
cam Jon the main shaft K. The bar E has fixed to it one end of a hui-
zontal bar L, the other end of which is formed with a slotted cam M, in which
a roller N rides; this roller is fitted excentrically on a plate on the main
shaft K. P is a lever pivoted to a block Q near the centre of the machine;
one end of this lever is pinned to the bar E, and the other end carries a
roller R, riding on a cam S on the band wheel T, mounted on the main
shaft; a is a hook on the end of a spindle b, carried by and placed at an angle
between the two front standards U, U. Near the opposite end of the spindle b
a pinion c is mounted; this pinion is geared into by a rack d on the end of
lever e centred at f. The lever e carries a pin g, acted on by a cam on the
shaft K. Behind the band wheel T is a transverse rod i carrying a plate j,
the front end of which works in a notch in the spindle 6 of the vibrating hook.
One end of the rod i, outside the standard U, carries a slotted plate k, serving
as a guide; in the slot of this plate another plate l fixed to the bar L is free
to use and fall, so that when the lateral movement takes place a similar
movement is imparted to the spindle b and hook a. The other end of the
rod is connected by a link m to the horizontal rod J; a spring is fitted at
the rear end of the lever P to keep the roller on the opposite end upon the
face of the cam. The play of the lever P, and consequently the extent of the
feed, are regulated by a pin n. The thread on leaving the bobbin V passes
between two convex plates W, kept in contact by a spring X and nut Y; it
then passes through an eye o on the arm I, and through another eye p on the
arm F to the needle. The hook a is slotted at its end to take hold of the
loops formed by the needle, and has a small projecting lip on the right side
forming a notch in which the loop lies, and down which and through the loop
the needle passes in its next stroke. The shank of the hook is thinned on the
left side to allow the needle to pass on that side in its up stroke. Z is a
lever pivoted to the arm C, and forked at its fore end to receive a pin 2 on
the head of the leg of the presser foot D. The rear end of the lever Z is bent

page_text: to be acted upon by a projection r on the under side of the arm I. I form
peculiar apertures for the needle and thread and hook in the needle plate, as
shown in plan at Eigure 4.
The working is as follows:-Supposing the needle is in position to descend
through the fabric, the slotted end of the hook is above the aperture in the
needle plate; as soon as the machine is put in motion the needle begins to
descend on the right side of the hook, and when about half of it has passed
through the fabric the book. a is caused to retire by the pin g riding on the
cam h; the needle then reaches the bottom of its course, and begins to rise on
the left side of the hook; as soon as it has risen a sufficient distance to form
a loop, the hook advances to take up that loop and hold it in its slot; the
needle remains stationary, the presser foot rises from the work, the needle
again descends to tighten the stitch last-made. The whole of the mechanism,
except the main shaft and presser foot, is moved to the right together with
the fabric by the cam S on the band wheel acting upon the roller R on the end
of the lever P; the needle then uses to the top of its course, while the presser
foot comes down upon the work, next the hook advances through the aperture
in the work plate and the mechanism, except the main shaft and presser foot,
eturns to the left to its first position for a fresh stitch, the loop last formed
being still held in the slot,of the hook. The needle in its next down stroke
passes- down the notch of the hook, and through this loop to complete the
stitch before it again enters the fabric. The slack of the thread is given off
and taken up at the proper times by means of the arm I, bar II, and rod J
being actuated by the cam on the shaft K, upon which the roller on the end.
of the rod J ides.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Richard Mott Wanzer in the Great Seal Patent Office on
the 20th January 1866
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, RICHARD
MOTT WANZER, of Cheapside, in the City of London, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-first day of July, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundied and sixty-five, in the twenty-ninth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me,
the said Richard Mott Wanzer, Her special licence that I, the said Richard
Mott Wanzer, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I,

page_text: the said Richard Mott Wanzer, my executors, administrators, and assigns,
should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all
times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might
make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain
and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN SEWING MACHINES," (communicated to me from abroad by John
Tarbox, of Hamilton, Canada,) upon the condition (amongst others) that
I, the said Richard Mott Wanzer, my executors or administrators. by an
instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals,
should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention,
and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to
be filed in the Great Seal Patent Othce within six calendar months neat
and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Richard Mott Wanzer, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same
is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement thereof, reference being had to the Diawings hereunto
annexed, that is to say:-
The chief object of this Invention is to form stitches over the edges of
fabrics. The Invention consists in an arrangement hereafter described, whereby
the loops formed by the needle are taken after passing through the fabric and
carried over the edge by a vibrating hook with a slotted point, the thread
being left in such position that the needle in its next downward motion wil
pass through the loop, and form what is termed the over-edge stitch, or "over
and over" glove stitch.
The Invention also consists in an arangement by which the necille is
caused to perform the feed of the fabric. The accompanying Diawings will
enable my invention to be fully understood.
Figures 1 and 2 are elevations of the two sides, and Figure 3 a plan with
the work plate removed of a sewing machine constructed according to the
present improvements.
A is the bed or sole plate supporting standards B, B, at the back; one of
these standards carries an aim C, to which the presser foot D is fitted. Between
the standards B, B, is a transverse bar E. free to slide laterally, as hereafter
described, together with an aim F, which cannes the needle. The bai E has
pivoted to it at G a vertical bar II, with a horizontal arm I, which cannes
and tightens the thread. The lower end of the bar II has jointed thereto one
end of a horizontal 1od J, the other end of which carries a roller riding in a
cam J', shewn detached in Figure 4, on the main shaft K. The bar E has

page_text: hxed to it one end of a horizontal bar L, the other end of which is formed
with a slotted cam M, in which a roller N rides; this roller is fitted excen-
tically on a plate O on the main shaft K P is a lever pivoted to a block Q
near the centre of the machine; one end of this lever is pinned to the bar E,
and the other end carries a roller R, riding on a cam S on the band wheel T,
mounted on the main shaft; a is a hook on the end of a spindle b, carried by
and placed at an angle between the two front standards U, U. Near the
opposite end of the spindle ba pinion c is mounted, this pinion is geared into
by a rack d on the end of a level e contred at f. This rack, lever, and pinion
are shown detached in Figure 5. The levere carries a pin g, acted on by a
cam on the shaft K. Behind the band wheel T is a transverse 10d 2,
carrying a plate, the front end of which works m a notch in the spindle 6 of
the vibrating hook. One end of the rod i, outside the standard U, cairies
a slotted plate k, serving as a guide; in the slot of this plato another
plate fixed to the bar is fice to 11se and fall, so that when the lateral
movement takes place a similar movement is imparted to the spindle b and
look a. The other end of the rod z is connected by a link m to the horizontal
od J; a spring is fitted at the rear end of the lever P to keep the roller on
the opposite end upon the face of the cam; the play of the lever P, and con-
sequently the extent of feed, are regulated by a pin n. The thread on leaving
the bobbin V passes between two convex plates W, kept in contact by a
spring X and nut Y; it then passes through an eye o on the arm I, and
through another eye p on the arm F to the needle. The hook a is shown
detached in Figure 6, it is slotted at its end, to take hold of the loops formed
by the needle, and has a small projecting lip a on the night-hand side forming
a notch in which the loop hes, and down which and through the loop the
needle passes in its next stroke. The shank of the hook is thinned on the
left side at 6, to allow the needle to pass on that side in its up stroke. Z is
a lever pivoted to the aim C, and forked at its fore end to receive a pin q on
the head of the leg of the presser foot D. The rear end of the lever Z is
bent to be acted upon by a projection r on the under side of the arm I. I
form peculiar apertures for the needle and thread and hook in the needle
plate, as shewn in plan at Figure 7.
The working is as follows:-Supposing the needle is in position to descend
through the fabric, the slotted end of the hook is above the aperture in the
needle plate As soon as the machine is put in motion the needle begins to
descend on the right side of the hook, and when about half of it has passed
through the fabric the hook a is caused to retire by the action of the
sping c round the shaft b, the pin g during this movement riding on the

page_text: cam h; the needle then reaches the bottom of its course, and begins to rise on
the left side of the hook; as soon as it has risen a sufficient distance to form
a loop the hook advances to take up that loop and hold it in its slot, the
needle remains stationary, the presser foot rises from the work, the needle
again descends to tighten the stitch last made, the whole of the mechanism,
except the main shaft and presser foot, is moved to the right together with
the fabric by the cam S on the band wheel acting upon the roller R on the
end of the lever P; the needle then rises to the top of its course, while the
presser foot comes down upon the work; next the hook advances through the
aperture in the work plate, and the mechanism, except the main shaft and
presser foot, returns to the left to its first position for a fresh stitch, the loop last
formed being still held in the slot of the hook. The needle in irs next down
stroke passes down the notch of the hook, and through this loop to complete
the stitch before it again enters the fabric. The slack of the thread is given
off and taken up at the proper times by means of the am I, bar H, and
rod .I being actuated by the cam on the shaft K, upon which the roller on the
end of the rod J rides.
And having now described the nature of the said Invention, and in what
manner the same is to be performed, I declare that I claim as tho
"Improvements in Sewing Machines,”-
Fust, the arrangement of parts of sewing machines, substantially as herein-
before described and represented in the accompanying Drawings, for forming
what is termed the "over-edge stitch," or "over and over" glove stitch.
Second, the employment of a vibrating hook constructed, arranged, and
acting substantially as herein-before described and represented in the
accompanying Drawings.
Third, the arrangement of parts of sewing machines substantially as herein-
before described and represented in the accompanying Drawings, whereby the
needle is caused to perform the feed of the fabric.
In witness whereof, I, the said Richard Mott Wanzer, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, this Twentieth day of January, One thousand
eight hundred and sixty-six.