IMPROVE- MENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR SEWING AND ORNAMENTING TEXTILE FABRICS AND OTHER LIKE GOODS, AND IN THE APPLIANCES CONNECTED THERE. WITH
Year: 1867

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to John Henry Johnson, of 47, Lincoln's Inn Fields,
in the County of Middlesex, Gentleman, for the Invention of "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR SEWING AND ORNAMENTING TEXTILE
FABRICS AND OTHER LIKE GOODS, AND IN THE APPLIANCES CONNECTED THERE.
WITH," A communication from abroad by George Joseph Richardson, of
Philadelphia Pennsylvania: United States of America.
Sealed the 20th August 1867, and dated the 1st March 1867.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said John Henry Johnson at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
1st March 1867.
I, JOHN HENRY JOHNSON, of 47, Lincoln's Inn Fields, in the County of
Middlesex, Geutleman, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention
for IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR SEWING AND ORNAMENTING
TEXTILE FABRICS AND. OTHER LIKE GOODS, AND IN THE APPLIANCES CONNECTED THERE-
WITH," a communication to me from abroad by George Joseph Richardson,
of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, United States of America, to be as follows:-
This Invention relates to certain peculiar constructions and arrangements
of sewing machines and parts or appliances connected therewith suitable for
ornamenting and uniting woven fabrics and other like goods, and consists,
firstly, of an improved arrangement of apparatus for ornamenting or
embroidering fabrics either on the surface or over the edges thereof.
017

page_text: In carrying out this part of the Invention it is proposed to employ two
threads passed respectively in the form of loops from above downwards through
the fabric and from below upwards, the two threads being looped into each
other above and below the fabric so as to produce an embroidery or edge
stitching. For this purpose two eye-pointed needles are employed, the upper
one being of the ordinary curved form and vibrating vertically, whilst the lower
one is of a somewhat spiral form, and receives not only a vertical vibratory
motion but also a circular reciprocating motion on its own axis. These two
needles work in two different planes, so that two parallel series of stitches are
produced in the fabric, or in the case of edge stitching the loops of the lower
needle will be brought in front of the edge of the fabric, and by the curve
in the needle passed sufficiently far over the edge to enable the upper needle
in its descent through the fabric to pass through the loop of the lower thread.
When the upper needle has penetrated the fabric and formed a loop on the
under side the lower needle passes its loop of thread through the thread loop
of the upper needle, and then either pass upwards through the body of the
fabric or past its edge, as the case may be, and presents its loop in a position
for being penetrated by the upper needle at its next descent, and so on. The
compound movements of the lower needle are derived from a vibrating lever
worked by a cam, and by a vertical rocking spindle or socket carried in the
end of such lever in which socket the needle is fitted. An arm on this socket
connected to a rod in communication with a slide and lever of its own worked
by a special cam surface serves to impart the rotatory reciprocating motion to
the socket and its spiral needle. Or in lieu of this arrangement the needle
may be fitted in a holder sliding vertically in suitable guides, and having a
pin working in a fixed spiral groove, so that the vertical movement will at the
same time produce the circular reciprocating motion. The serrated feeding
arm or lever is centred below the cloth plate, and below this centre is an
eccentric on the main shaft for imparting an up and down as well as a lateral
motion to the feeding arm, the surface of which describes an elliptical course
which is about one-half above and one-half below the surface of the cloth plate.
By making the centre of oscillation of the feeding arm adjustable in a slot nearer
to or further from the actuating eccentric the throw of the feeder may be
adjusted to any length of stitch required.
The second part of this Invention has reference to a peculiar arrangement
of mechanism for effecting what is known as "over edge" stitching, and also
ordinary chain stitching produced from a single thread.
In carrying out this part of the Invention a hooked horizontal thread carrier
or looper is employed for catching the loop of the needle thread and (in the

page_text: case of "over edge" stitching) drawing it over the edge of the fabric, and
presenting it to the needle in such a position that the needle in its descent
shall pass through this loop and through the fabric so as to secure the loop
over the edge thereof. This looper receives a compound motion, viz., a
horizontal longitudinal motion in its guides towards and from the needle so
as to enable it to catch the loop and subsequently pass it over the edge of the
fabric on to the upper surface thereof, a transverse or lateral vibratory motion
in order to draw the engaged loop to one side of the needle and a vertical
reciprocating motion for the purpose of bringing such loop above the surface
of the fabric over the edge thereof for the needle to pass through it. This
looper is carried in guides on the upper end of a vertical slotted lever which
is vibrated laterally on a pivot by a cam or wiper on the main shaft, and
which also receives in the case of "over edge" stitching a vertical reciprocating
motion from the needle lever or arm with which it is coupled by a link or
connecting rod. A pin in the side of the looper works in a vertical slotted
lever actuated by a cam surface of its own which imparts the longitudinal
reciprocating motion to the looper in its guides. When two fabrics are
merely to be united together the looper last referred to is replaced by another
having a differently formed hook, and the vertical reciprocating motion is
thrown out of action by uncoupling the link or connecting rod before referred
to, since in this case the looper will not require to rise above the surface of
fabric, but will only require to catch the loop and hold it in such a position
beneath the fabric as to enable the needle during its next descent to pass
through and secure it. The tension of the needle thread is regulated by turning
it one or more times round the shank of a button, through a hole in the edge
of which the thread passes to a guide eye in the needle arm and thence to
the eye of the needle. The pin or spindle of this button is made conical, and
fits a correspondingly tapered socket, and between the button and the socket
there is fitted a helical spring which tends constantly when not depressed
to keep the conical spindle tight in its socket so as to prevent the accidental
turning of the button and consequently derangement of the tension of the
needle thread.
The third part of this Invention relates to apparatus for guiding and feeding
fabrics, such as carpets, for example, through sewing machines, and consists as
regards the guiding device in the employment for that purpose of a pair of
adjustablearms fitted to the cloth plate of the machine,and having each an inter-
nal rib or flange formed on their outer free ends for the purpose of holding the
fabrics near their salvages and guiding them during their passage through the
machine. These arins or jaws are caused to grip more or less the fabrics by the

page_text: aid of a tightening screw or nut. The feeding plate or lever is provided with two
or more sharp points which penetrate through both thicknesses of fabric, and
thereby serve to keep them together with their edges even during their
traverse through the machine; these feeding points work also through a
slot made for that purpose in the presser foot. An adjustable plate may be
employed either alone or in combination with the guiding arms or plates, such
adjustable plate being provided at its front end with an inclined wedge-shaped
projection situate just in front of the guiding arms or jaws, its object being to
turn in the piles of the two fabrics and ensuring the edges of the latter being
brought close together.
The fourth part of this Invention has reference to the means for regulating
or varying the throw of the feeder, and consists in the employment of a cup-
shaped disc or eccentric provided with an adjusting handle, and having its
periphery slotted radially at intervals round the circumference. The centre
pin passed through the centre of the eccentric is screwed into a bracket in the
main framing so as to hold the eccentric perfectly secure inanyadjusted position,
the metal between the radial slots having sufficient elasticity to yield slightly
when the eccentric is to be adjusted.
The fifth part of this Invention relates to the mode of guiding and supporting
heavy and bulky fabrics, such as sail cloth, carpets, and like goods, whilst being
fed through a sewing machine, and consists in attaching the fabric to points
or pins on a plate secured to one edge of a truck or carriage which runs along
slightly inclined rails or tramways in front of the sewing machine, the
gradient of the rails being such as to facilitate the movement of the carriage
whilst the fabric is under the action of the feeding device of the sewing
machine.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, tiled
by the said John Henry Johuson in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
31st August 1867.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JOHN
HENRY JOHNSON, of 47, Lincoln's Inn Fields, in the County of Middlesex,
Gentleman, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the First day of March, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and sixty-seven, in the thirtieth year of Her reign, did,
for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the said John

page_text: Henry Johnson, Her special license that I, the said John Henry Johnson
my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said
John Henry Johnsou, my executors, administrators, or assigns, should at any
time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter
during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use
exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland,
the Chanuel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS
IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR SEWING AND ORNAMENTING TEXTILE FABRICS AND
OTHER LIKE GOODS, AND IN THE APPLIANCES CONNECTED THEREWITH," a communication
to mefrom abroadby George Joseph Richardson, of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania,
United States of America, upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said
John Henry Johnson, my executors or administrators, by an instrument in
writing under my hand and seal, should particularly describe and ascertain
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be
performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office
within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said
Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said John Henry Johnson,do hereby declare the
nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed,
to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement,
reference being had to the accompanying Drawings, and to the letters and
figures marked thereon, that is to say :-
The said Invention has reference, firstly, to certain arrangements for pro-
ducing an embroidery or ornamenting stitch on fabrics by the aid of two
threads which are looped together above and below the fabric, or drawn
over the edge if intended for edge stitching, by the combination of two eye-
pointed needles, the under one of which is of a bent or slightly spiral shape,
and receives not only an up-and-down motion through the fabric, but also a
circular reciprocating motion on its own axis. The feeder is caused to
describe an oval course by the aid of an eccentric and an adjustable fulcrum.
Secondly, to certain arrangements for producing a single thread chain or
tambour stitch,either for the purpose merely of uniting fabrics or for forming
an ornamental edge stitching by the aid of an eye-pointed needle in combi-
nation with a looper which receives a compound motion for the purpose of
catching the loop and carrying it above and over the edge of the fabric and
retaining it till penetrated by the needle during its next descent. In the case
of ordinary chain stitching a modified form of looper is employed, and its
function is simply to hold the loop below the fabric till the needle has secured
it. A tension button is employed, round which the thread is wound, and this

page_text: button is retained in its adjusted position by having a conical pin or stem
formed thereon working in a tapered socket, the pin or stem being held tight
in the socket by the pressure of a helical spring.
Thirdly, to the use of adjustable arms or jaws for holding and guiding the
work whilst being fed through the machine, and to the combination therewith
of a feed plate provided with sharp pins or points which penetrate both thick-
nesses of fabric and work through a slot in the presser foot. An inclined
projecting piece on an adjustable plate is employed for turning in the of
the two fabrics when requisite, and thereby ensuring their edges being evenly
placed on eutering the machine.
Fourthly, to the construction of the eccentric employed for regulating the
throw of the feeder, such eccentric being made of a cup shape, and having a
number of radial slots or cuts formed in its circumference with a view to
imparting elasticity thereto,and enabling it to be screwed up sufficiently tight
to prevent its accidental displacement, whilst at the same time it will be easy
of adjustment when required.
Fifthly, to the employment of a truck or carriage mounted on wheels and
running along inclined rails or tramways for sustaining and carrying heavy
fabrics, such as sails and carpets, whilst being fed through a sewing machine,
the fabrics being held by pins or points on one edge of the carriage or
truck.
And in order that the said Invention may be fully understood I shall
now proceed more particularly to describe the same, and for that purpose
shall refer to the several Figures on the annexed Sheet of Drawings, the same
letters of reference indicating corresponding parts in all the corresponding
Figures.
The first part of this Invention is illustrated in Figures 1 to 14 inclusive.
A is the base plate of the machine; B, the stationary arm; C, the presser
foot, and J the usual needle arm which carries the eye-pointed needle n, and
is operated by a cam H on the driving shaft E, the latter turning in pro-
jections 1), D', at the under side of the base plate. At the under side of the
usual work plate k is a grooved projection e. L is a feed lever, the lower
end of which is connected to and controlled by a crank or eccentric d on the
end of the shaft E, the lever being confined between the projection Don the base
plate and a plate L',and its upper serrated end projecting through an opening
in the work plate beneath the presser foot. The fulcrum of the feed lever
consists of a pin b which projects into a slot f in the lever, and which may be
adjusted vertically, and secured after adjustment. To an inclined hanger on
the under side of the base plate A is jointed a bell-crank lever M, which is

page_text: b
operated by a cam G on the driving shaft, and in the outer end of the lever
turns a spindle h, Figure 2, from one side of which projects an arm i; to
the upper end of the spindle h is secured a bent eye-pointed needle m, and on
the lever M near the inner end of the same is a slide N, to which is jointed
one end of a rod h¹, the opposite end of the latter being jointed to the arm į
of the spindle h. To a hanger at the under side of the plate A is hung a
lever (Figure 2) which is operated by a cam F on the driving shaft, and in
the upper end of this lever is a slot u, into which projects a pin on the slide
N. The upper needle thread x is conducted in the usual manner to the
needle n, and the lower thread y is passed through an eye 6 (Figures 7 and 8)
near the lower end of the under needle m into a spiral groove on the outside
of the latter, and through an eye near the point, as shewn in Figures 5 and 6.
In making a stitch in the body of the fabric, similar to that shown in Figures
9 and 10, the cloth is placed on the work plate, and a rotary motion is
imparted to the shaft E. As the shaft revolves an uniform reciprocating
motion will be imparted to the arm J, an intermittent reciprocating motion
will be imparted to the lever M, while the sli de N will be moved back and
forth, so that the spindle h will be caused to vibrate on its axis. As the
upper needle n after having penetrated the fabric begins to ascend a loop of
its thread will be formed at the rear of the needle, and through this loop
the point of the ascending needle m will pass, carrying with it the under
thread, and at the same time turning on its axis. As the needle n rises
above the fabric the latter is moved forward by the feeding mechanism the
length of one stitch, immediately after which the needle m will penetrate the
fabric from below, carrying with it the under thread and forming a loop of
the same above the fabric. The needle min ascending turns on its axis, so
that on reaching the limit of its upward motion its bent end occupies the
position shown in Figures 6 and 7, the loop of thread y being thus spread
beneath the needle n, which now descends, passes through the loopy, and
through the fabric, carrying with it a loop of thread a; the needle m, when
its loop is penetrated by the needle n, turning back from the latter and
descending through the fabric to its first position. A series of loops of thread.
are thus passed downwards through the fabric a short distance from and
parallel to a series of loops of thread y passed upward through the fabric, the
two series of loops being interlocked on both sides of the fabric, as seen in
Figures 9 and 10, and forming an embroidery stitch. When it is desired to
make a stitch over the edge of a fabric, as shown in Figure 11, the cloth is
so placed on the work plate / that the needle m instead of penetrating the
fabric shall pass upward adjacent to one edge of the same. The needle m is

page_text: of such a curved or spiral form that it will penetrate the cloth while revolving
without disturbing the position of the fabric. Instead of the devices described
the under needle may be secured to the upper end of a cylindrical rod Q,
Figure 14, which slides in a projection on the plate D. The lower end of the
rod is reduced in diameter for the reception of a sleeve Q', and from this
sleeve a pin S projects through a vertical slot t in the plate D and into a
scroll groove in the face of a cam wheel F secured to the driving shaft. A
pin near the upper end of the rod Q projects into an inclined or spiral
groove (shown by dotted lines) in the plate D. As the driving shaft revolves
the desired vertical movement will be imparted to the sleeve Q', and conse-
quently to the needle m by the action of the cam F, while it will turn round,
owing to the pin s' traversing the above-mentioned groove.
The peculiar nature of the feed motion will be best observed on reference
to the Diagrams, Figures 12 and 13, where two views of the upper end of the
feed lever L are illustrated, the circles marked a showing the operation of the
crank or eccentric by which the lower end of the feeding arm is controlled,
and b (Figures 1 and 3) being the adjustable fulcrum, the position of which
determines the extent and nature of the movement imparted to the serrated
end or the lever. In Figure 13, for instance, the fulcrum has been adjusted
to a point nearly midway between the opposite ends of the arm, in which case
a point 2 on the upper end of lever will traverse continuously the oval or
nearly oval path a, the said path being partly above and partly below the
upper surface of the work plate, when the fabric will be removed from the
point 3 to the point 4 in the direction of the arrow. In Figure 12 the
fulcrum has been lowered to a point nearer to the operating crank or
eccentric, so that the point 2 describes a more elongated oval or nearly
oval figure, the extent of the feed being consequently greater.
Figures 15 to 34 inclusive illustrate the second part of this Invention.
A is the frame of the machine; B is the work plate; C, the driving shaft ;
and E, the usual presser foot. To a bracket G projecting from a standard
on the frame is hung a needle arm F, which is operated through the medium
of a connecting arm c by an eccentric d on the driving shaft. To the outer
end of the arm F is secured a needle e, which is bent near the lower end, as
shown in the Drawing. Through a slot in the lower end of a plate or lever I
and into the frame A passes a pin f, on which the lever has both a vibratory
and a vertical motion, and to the lower end of the lever and to the frame is
secured a spring g, which maintains one edge of the lever in contact with a
cam h on the driving shaft, Figure 16. In two projections i, i, at the upper
end of the lever I is a detachable loop carrier J, at one edge of which is a

page_text: hook y, and from one side of the carrier projects a pinj (Figure 16),, which
extends into a slot w in a lever k hung to the frame; a spring g secured to
this lever maintains a friction roller m on the lever in contact with the edge
of a cam L on the driving shaft, and to the periphery of this cam is secured a
curved cam plate L'. To the lever or carrier hold I is jointed an arm n, the
upper end of which is secured by a pin o to the needle arm F, and to the
outer end of the bracket G is secured a stationary arm M,. in the end of
which is an opening adapted for the reception of the pin o. At one side of
the needle arm F is a projection p, in which is a tapering opening adapted
for the reception of a tapering pin q, and to the upper end of the latter is
secured a button r in which is an opening s, a spring t which is coiled round
the pin and bears against both the projection p and the button tending. to
raise the latter and maintain the pin q wedged firmly in the opening. The
tread x is passed from the spool to the button r, and is lapped one or more
times round the shank of the latter, is passed through the opening s through
an opening z in the arm F, and through the eye of the needle e. The fabric.X
(Figure 18) to be sewed is placed ou the work plate B, so that it can be
penetrated near the edge by the needle, the parts of the machine are brought
to the positions shown in Figures 15 and 16, and a rotary motion in the
direction of its arrow is imparted to the driving shaft, when the carrier J will
be caused to take necessarily the different positions shown in Figures 18 to 26
inclusive, the hook y of the carrier catching the loop of thread belowthe,
cloth, carrying this loop over the edge of the fabric, holding it in a position.to
be penetrated by the needle as it again descends after the feed has moved the
fabric, and then disengaging itself from the loop and assuming its first position.
When two fabrics are to be sewed together the carrier J is removed and
another J (Figure 17) having a hook of a different form is adjusted in the
holder ; the pin o is then removed from the needle arm F, and the upper
end of the arm is secured by the pin to the end of the arin m, after which
the curved cam plate L' is adjusted, so that its edge shall project beyond the
edge of the cam L and bear on the friction roller m, as shown in Figure 17;
the fabric X' is then so adjusted that the needle e shall penetrate the same at
the point desired; the parts described are brought to the position shown in
Figure 17, and the machine is put in operation, when the carrier J' will be
caused to assume successively the positions indicated in Figures 27 to 34
inclusive, the hook y catching a loop of needle thread below the cloth, holding
it while the needle rises and while the feed lever moves the fabric, carrying it
to a position to be penetrated by the needle on its descent, and then dis-
engaging itself and returning to its first position. To increase the tension on

page_text: the upper thread the button r is depressed and turned so as to wind the thread
round the shank to the extent necessary to obtain the required tension, the
pressure is then removed, when the spring will elevate the button to its first
position. When a longer needle arm is used an ordinary curved needle may
be substituted for the bent needle e.
..
Figures 35, 36, and 37 illustrate the third part of the Invention. A is the
bed plate of a sewing machine, to which is secured an arm B, and in the front
end of the latter slide the presser bar C and needle bar ), a slotted foot a
being secured to the presser bar. At the inner end of a feed lever H;
which is operated by a cam G on a driving shaft F, are two projections f
and 9, the latter extending beneath an opening y in the work plate I; and at
the upper side of this projection are two sharp pointed pins i, i. To the base
plate A is secured a "guide" J, which consists of two plates or jaws k, k¹,
secured to each other at their rear ends, and to the base plate of a screw l;
which passes through slots in both plates or jaws and into the base plate. The
upper jaw or plate is elastic, and bears against the under side of a nut h
which turns on a screw o secured to the lower plate. The front ends of the
jaws k, k, are bent inwards, so as to form two ribs or flanges s, t, which may
be adjusted at any required distance in respect to each other by adjusting the
upper plate, and through openings in the latter project rods m, m, (secured to
the plate k) which prevent any lateral movement of the plate k¹ without
interfering with its free vertical movement. To a projecting portion of the
plate is secured an adjustable plate K, at the front end of which is an
inclined wedge-shaped projection n. The machine is provided with a shuttle,
looper, or other suitable device, by means of which the needle thread may be
secured after being passed t!.rough the fabric. The strips X, X', of carpet or
other fabrics to be sewed together are placed one above the other, and are
secured between the jaws k, k', by curning the nut p, so that the ribs s, t, shall
press against the fabric near the thick cord or selvage at the edge of the same,
this selvage preventing the fabric from being drawn outwards from between
the jaws, but not interfering with its free movement between the jaws towards
the needle b. The guide J is then so adjusted on the base plate that the
needle b when it descends will invariably penetrate the fabric at a point just
back of the selvage, while as the pins i, i, penetrate both strips it will be
apparent that not only will these strips both be fed forward at the same speed,
but their relative positions will be maintained by the pins after the strips leave
the guides. By the use of the plate K and its projection n for turning in the
piles of the two fabrics the edges of the latter may be brought close together.
The form of the plates or jaws k, k, may be altered, and in some instances

page_text: when the pinsi,i,would maintain the edges of the two strips of fabric parallel
with each other the guide may be dispensed with; in this case, however, a
plain hemming guide should be secured to the base plate to guide the fabric
to the needle. The plate K may be used without the guide J by bringing it
nearer to the needle and presser foot than is shown in the Drawing. By the
use of the slotted presser foot the fabric may be held firmly down, while the
pins i, i, may project entirely through the cloth without their points being
injured by being brought into contact with the foot..
Figures 38 and 39 illustrate the fourth part of the Invention. A is a cup-
shaped disc or eccentric, which is secured by a screw a with its concave side.
against a projection or plate on a sewing machine in such a position that its
edge shall be adjacent to a feed bar. An arm d is connected to the disk, and
in the edge of the latter are a number of radial slots i, i. By turning the
disk its edge may be moved to or from the feed bar, so as to regulate the
extent of the movement of the latter, the pin a maintaining the disk firmly
against the plate so that it cannot be jarred from its position, while the parts
of the disk between the slots i,i,are sufficiently elastic to yield slightly, so as
to permit the disk to turn freely.
Figures 40, 41, and 42 illustrate the fifth part of the Invention. A is a
frame or stand, which is secured to a base or floor B, and which supports a
sewing machine C. To the floor B in front of the frame A are secured two
parallel rails a; a¹, which are slightly inclined, as shown in Figure 41; Disa
truck having flanged wheels d, d, adapted to the rails a, a, and to the top b
of the truck at one edge of the same is secured a metal plate E, the edge of
which when the truck is opposite the sewing machine extends over the front
edge of the work plate of the latter. From the upper side of the plate E
project sharp pointed pins c, c, for a purpose described hereafter. A carpet,
sail, or other fabric to be sewed is placed on the top of the truck, and is so
adjusted that the edge to be sewed shall project over the edge of the plate E
to a sufficient distance to be beneath the needle of the sewing machine, when
the truck is brought in front of the latter, the fabric being pressed downwards
on to the plate Eso that the pins c,c, shall project through it, hold it in its
place, and maintain the two thicknesses to be sewed together in their proper
positions in respect to each other; the truck is then pushed up the inclined
rails, the fabric is brought beneath the needle, and the machine is put in
operation, when the fabric will be gradually drawn forward by the action of
the usual feed mechanism, the inclination of the rails a, a, being such that the
truck will move readily in front of the machine when the work is drawn
forward, but will at other times remain stationary. When the truck has

page_text: been carried past the machine the work is lifted off the plate E, the truck is
again moved up the inclined rails, and another section of the work is secured
in its place and moved forward as before.
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of the said
Invention, and the manner in which the same is or may be used or carried
into effect, I would observe in conclusion that what I consider to be novel
and original and therefore claim as the Invention secured to me by the herein-
before in part recited Letters Patent is,―
First, the combination of the upper and lower eye-pointed needles n, m,
(Figures to 14) to which the movements herein described are imparted, so
that by the joint action of the said needles an embroidery or edging stitch of
the character described may be produced in the manner specified.
Second, the mechanism substantially as described for imparting to the lower
needlem(Figures 1,2,and 14) the vertical reciprocating or vibratory movement,
combined with a vibrating movement on its own axis.
Third, a feeding arm or lever L(Figures 1, 3, 12, and 13), to the serrated
portion of whichfor acting on the fabric a continuous movement in an oval or
nearly oval path,partly above and partly below the work plate, is imparted by
the device herein described, or their equivalents.
Fourth, the combination, substantially as described, of the said feeding
arm L with an adjustable fulcrum pin b.
Fifth, a hook y, operating in combination with a vibrating or reciprocating
eye-pointed needle for producing stitches, as herein described in reference to
Figures 15 to 34 of the Drawing.
Sixth, the lever I (Figures, 15, 16, and 17), constructed for the retention,
removal, and replacement of the loop-carrying bars J or J¹, substantially as
described.
Seventh, the lever I and its loop-carrying bar J or J' in combination with
the within described devices, or their equivalents, whereby the said barcan be
readily adjusted to act in conjunction with the needle for forming the edge
binding, or for making the ordinary loop stitch.
Eighth, the button 7 (Figures 15, 16, and 17,) secured to a tapering pin q
adapted to a tapering socket in combination with a spiral spring t, or its
equivalent, the whole being arranged and operating substantiallyas and forthe
purpose set forth.
Ninth, the adjustable arms k, k, with their ribs or flanges s, t, constructed
and adapted for attachment to a sewing machine, substantially as and for the
purpose described (see Figures 35, 36, and 37).
i

page_text: Tenth, the combination of the pins i, i, and the feed lever H, as and for the
purpose specified (see Figures 35, 36, and 37).
Eleventh, the adjustable plate K with its inclined projection n, the whole
being constructed and adapted for attachment to a sewing machine, sub-
stantially as and for the purposes set forth and illustrated by Figures 35, 36,
and 37.
Twelfth, the presser foot a with its slot in combination with the feed lever
H and its pins, for the purpose specified.
Thirteenth, the concave disc A with its slots i, i, and arm d, or its
equivalent,constructed and adapted for use in a sewing machine,substantially
as described and illustrated by Figures 33 and 39.
Fourteenth, a truck or carrier D arranged to traverse on inclined rails in
front of a stationary sewing machine, and adapted for the reception and
retention ofa fabric to be sewed, substantially as and for the purpose described
and illustrated by Figures 40, 41, and 42.
Fifteenth, the combination with the said truck of pins c, c, for the purpose
specified.
In witness whereof, I, the said John Henry Johnson, have to this my
Specification set my hand and seal, the Thirty-first day of August,
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-seven.
J. HENRY JOHNSON. (L.S.)