Year: 1891

page_text: Date of Application, 30th Jan., 1891
Complete Specification Left, 10th Sept., 1891-Accepted, 14th Nov., 1891.

page_text: OPERATION OF THE DOUBLE LOOPER hi.
The pinion 5 (Fig. 3) is turned by the main shaft of the machine and turns the
wheel 6 which is of double the diameter of pinion 5; an eccentric on the shaft of
pinion 6 operates pitman 7, lever 8 (which turns on stud 9) rod 10 and the screw
pinions D I which operate the double looper hi in the known manner.

page_text: and thus the nipple tube turns with said central tube when the latter is turned by
means of the crank.
RISING AND DESCENDING THREAD CARRIER C.
The rising and descending thread carrier C shown and described in Letters
Patent No. 14,255 of 1886 is modified in this machine in the following manner.
A slide 83 (Figs. 13 and 16) can move freely in a groove of hub 84 of wheel G,
and its lower end bears upon au annular cam 86 which is secured to the nipple
tube 78 by the screw 87; the slide 83 is pressed against the cam 86 by the action
of spring 89, and the motion of the nipple tube, together with the shape of the
cam 86, produce the effect of raising and lowering the slide 83 and its thread
carrier C during its revolutions around the needle at the proper moment.
BRAKE LEVER IN CENTRAL BOBBIN K.
On employing a central bobbin K like the one described in Letters Patent
No. 17.128 of 1888 the action of the rotating thread carrier C not only draws the
thread from said bobbin which is necessary for the production of the seam, but it
also causes said bobbin to participate in its rotation around the needle which thus
acquires a certain speed. Upon suddenly stopping the machine by its well known
stop motion the bobbin continues to turn to a certain extent, and thus a loose loop
of thread is detached from it which hangs down from the bobbin and which is liable
to become entangled with some part of the machine and thus to arrest the work.
To prevent this inconvenience we employ a brake lever T, which is pivoted at d
(Fig. 4) to the frame of the machine and which is connected at one end with. the
stop motion lever L by means of the connecting rod S, while the other end of
the lever T floats above the bobbin K, thus leaving said bobbin free to turn with
the thread carrier C; but when the machine is to be stopped, the crank handle W
(Fig. 4) is pressed upward and with it lever L and its connecting rod S, and the
lever T by its weight drops down upon bobbin K and stops it instantaneously.
The end of the lever T may be provided with an india rubber covering m, or
similar substance to produce friction. On setting the machine in motion the
crank handle W is pressed downward and the lever T is raised again from the
bobbin K.
TENSION ON CENTRAL BOBBIN K.
For the tension of the thread of bobbin K we employ a weight U (Figs. 4 and 5)
which is hung on to a stud and which bears upon the top part of said bobbin.
The weight U is provided on its rear part with a thin stem on which a counter-
weight can be fixed in any position so as to regulate the pressure of the weight U
upon the bobbin.
MACHINE WITH LIMITED FEED MOTION..
When the machine is to be employed only as a limited edging machine it can
be much simplified, as then the feed need turn only about one third of a turn and
the needles, the nipple and the rotating thread carrier need not turn at all with
the crank handle W. The machine for this purpose is represented with its parts
at Figs. 4, 67 and 11 and the similar parts bear the same letters as in the machine
with universal feed motion.
The double loopers i, are secured to a lever 57 to which its suitable motion is
imparted by the action of the crank pin 58 of the pinion 59, while its fork shaped
end is guided rectilineally by the stud 60. The pinion 59 receives an oscillating
motion from the toothed sector 66, and each of the loopers and i describes an
oscillating motion around its needle in the line of an ellipse 61 (Fig. 7) and thus
winds its thread around the needle.
A similar motion is imparted to the thread carrier which lays its thread
transversally into the stitches on the underside of the material, it is secured to
the lever 63, which is actuated by the eccentric stud 62 of pinion 64, which is

page_text: also actuated by the toothed sector 66, and the end of lever 63 is guided recti-
lineally by stud 65. The toothed sector 66 is operated from the main shaft of the
machine through pinion 5 (Fig. 4) which drives wheel 6, of double its diameter,
and (by means of an eccentric on its shaft) pitman 7, lever 69, connecting rod 68
and pitman 67 which is linked to a lever of the toothed sector 66.
It is evident that also the same ornamental seams can be produced on this
machine as on the one shown and described in Letters Patent No. 467 of 1888.
A cord, can also be introduced in the work, as represented Figs. 18 and 19, by
passing a cord 88 between or behind the needles A B through cording guide 91
(Fig. 19) which will then be interlaced in the threads and which according to the
tension given to one or to the other of the needle threads will appear on the edge
or on the centre line of the seam and produce an ornamental work as represented
on an enlarged scale at Fig. 17.
Dated this Thirtieth day of January 1891.
:
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Overseaming and Embroidering Machines and in
Ornamental Seams.
We EMILE CORNELY and ROBERT CORNELY, Manufacturers, of 87 Faubourg
St. Denis, Paris, France, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in
and by the following statement :-
This invention relates to improvements in overscaming and embroidering
machines.
The seam of this machine is produced from four threads and consists of two
parallel chain stitch seams upon which a thread is wound by means of a revolving
thread carrier while the stitches below the material are held together by means of
a thread which is laid into them alternately to the right and to the left.
The machine described hereinafter can do the work in all directions by means of
the universal feed.
On the accompanying drawings:
:―
Figures 1 and 2 represent the two sides of the scam on an enlarged scale.
Figure 3. represents a side view of the machine with the universal feed motion.
Figure 4 represents a side view of the machine with a limited feed motion for
edging work.
Figure 5 front view of the head.
The other figures represent detached views hereafter to be referred to.
PRODUCTION OF THE SEAM :-
On the two chain stitches y Fig. 1, obtained by means of two needle hooks in any
known manner, a thread is wound. by means of a continuously rotating thread
carrier such as is shown and described in Specifications to Letters Patent No. 212
of 1876, No. 2890 of 1879 and No. 2597 of 1883. The cross thread is laid into
the stitching y by means of an oscillating thread carrier which moves alternately
to the right and left (Fig. 2) on the underside of the material.
PARTS FOR PRODUCING THE SEAM :-
They are represented in a side view in Figs. 6 and 8, and in a plan at Fig. 7,
and consist in the needle hooks A and B and the double thread looper h, i, which
operates in the same manner as that described in Specification to Letters Patent
No. 467 of 1888, and of the thread guide (Figs. 7, 8 and 12) which carries the
transversal thread.

page_text: - wound around the chain stitches by means of the rotating thread carrier C which is
secured to the hub 84 of pinion G. A pinion 47 on the main shaft 2 (Fig. 3) turns
the pinions 48, 49, 50, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56 and G.
CRANK MOTION OF THE ROTATING THREAD CARRIER Û :-
Shaft 29 turns pinions 30 and 31, shaft 32, cross shaft a² and its pinion 51
which communicates the motion to the pinions 52, 53, 54, 55, 56 and to pinion G.
CRANK MOTION OF THE NEEDLE BARS :-
The needle bars 70 and 71 (Fig. 13) are secured to the needle bar holder 72
(Figs. 13 and 14) by means of the screws 76. The tube 75 receives its vertical
up and down motion in the well known manner from the part 78, Figs. 3, 4 and 5;
the Hat projection 77 (Fig. 13), which is secured within the hub of pinion 44,
bears against a corresponding flat of the central tube 75 and thus turns the
latter together with the needle bars when the pinion 44 is turned with the crank
handle W.
CRANK MOTION OF THE NIPPLE TUBE E, E²:-
:-
The nipple tube E, E2, is shown and described in the Specification to Letters
Patent 17,128 of Nov. 24-1888, its upper part E is flattened at its upper end on
both sides and slides within the forked shaped ends 79 of the hub of pinion 44
(Figs. 13 and 15) and thus the nipple-tube turns with said central tube when the
latter is turned by means of the crank handle W.
In the Specification to Letters Patent No. 17128 of Nov. 24-1888, the coupling
of the two parts E and E' has been effected by means of their hook shaped ends,
which, when adjusted together were held by means of the needle bar which fills the
hollow space of said nipple tube. It was found desirable that the two parts E
and E² should be more rigidly coupled together as the wear between the two joints
prevented the lower part E² from following strictly the motion of part E, when the
latter was turned by the crank handle. This object was attained in the following
manner, represented at Figs. 20, 21, 22, 23 and 24. The part E of the nipple tube
is provided with a sleeve N (Figs. 13, 20 and 22) which can turn on the part E
but which is prevented from moving vertically by the flange a, Figs. 20 and 21,
which is countersunk into the flange band is held therein by the washer c.
The
part N is provided at its lower end interiorly with a screw thread, and the part E2,
Fig. 23, has a screw thread cut exteriorly at its upper end. The upper part E
is held in the fork H of its moving slide F. When the two parts E and E² are to
be coupled together, the part E2 is pushed upward and is turned until its projection
springs into a corresponding recesso of part E Figs. 21 and 24, the sleeve N is
then turned and, acting like a screw nut, is screwed tightly on to the part E, and
thus the two parts of the nipple tube E, E are rigidly connected one to the other
and no play can be produced between them by wear.
RISING AND DESCENDING THREAD CARRIER C:-
The rising and descending thread carrier C shown and described in Specification
'to Letters Patent No. 14255 of 1886 is modified in the machine in the following
manner. A slide 83 (Figs. 13 and 16) can move freely in a groove of hub 84 of
wheel G, and its lower end bears upon an annular cam 86 which is secured to the
nipple tube E2 by the screw 87. The slide 83 is pressed against the cam 86 by
the action of spring 89, and the motion of the nipple tube E, together with the
shape of the cam 86, produces the effect of raising and lowering the slide 83 and
its thread carrier C during the revolution around the needle at the proper
moment.
: -
BRAKE LEVER ON CENTRAL BOBBIN K:-
On employing a central bobbin K like the one described in Specification to

page_text: only draws the thread from said bobbin which is necessary for the production of the
seam, but it also causes said bobbin to participate in its rotation around the needle
and thus acquire a certain speed. Upon suddenly stopping the machine by its well
known stop motion the bobbin continues to turn to a certain extent, and thus a
loose loop of thread is detached from it which hangs down from the bobbin and
which is liable to become entangled with some part of the machine and thus to
arrest the work. To prevent this inconvenience we employ a brake lever T which
is pivoted at (Fig. 4) to the frame of the machine and which is connected at one
end with the stop motion lever L by means of the connecting rod S, while the other
.end of the lever T floats above the bobbin K, thus leaving said bobbin free to turn
with the thread carrier C; but when the machine is to be stopped, the crank
handle W (Fig. 4) is pressed upward and with it the lever Land its connecting
rod S, and the lever T by its weight drops down upon the bobbin K and stops it
instantaneously. The end of the lever T may be provided with an india rubber
covering m, or similar substance to produce friction. On setting the machine in
motion the crank handle W is pressed downward and the lever T is raised again
from the bobbin K.
:
When the bobbin Kis to be taken out or to be set into the machine for the renewal
of its thread, the brake lever T must be raised; this is done by means of a lever u
(Figs. 4, 25 and 26) which turns on a stud t which is secured on the support. M.
Upon pushing the lever u to the right it will bear against the inclines of the short.
arm of lever T, will cause it to descend and will thus raise the long arm of said
lever When the machine is set in motion, the cam O which is secured to the
main shaft 2 of the machine will bear against the lever u, will push it to the right
and will thus set lever T free to operate on the bobbin K as above described. The
automatic action of the cam O upon lever a was found necessary to insure the
action of the brake lever T on the bobbin K in case the operator should neglect to
liberate the lever T from lever u. Figure 25 represents a cross section through
the line 80 and 81 of Fig. 4, and Figure 26 represents a top view of Fig. 25.
TENSION ON CENTRAL BOBBIN K:-
For the tension on central bobbin K we employ a weight U (Figs. 4 and 5)
which is hung on to a stud p and which bears upon the top of said bobbin. The
weight U is provided on its rear part with a thin stem on which a counterweight
can be fixed in any position so as to regulate the pressure of the weight U upon
the bobbin.
DOUBLE BOBBIN HOLDER FOR THE TWO BOBBINS :-
The threads for the two needle hooks A and B are supplied from the two.
bobbins 92 and 93 (Fig. 3) which turn on the spool pins of the double bobbin
holder 94 (Fig. 3) which turns on a suitable bearing of the casting 95 and which is
turned from the crank handle W by means of the pinions 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 25, 26,
27, 28 V, 96, 97, 98 and 99.
It is evident that looper tubes h, i, (Fig. 8) can be set at various distances one
from the other to produce scams of various widths, upon the condition that the
space between the needles A, B, corresponds with that between the looper tubes;
this can be effected by replacing the looper composed of the parts w, P, and h, i by
one of the desired size.
It is also evident that by the same operation the double looper can be replaced
by a single looper having one tube / only, as represented Fig. 33, which working
in conjunction with a single needle B will produce a simple chain stitch; in which
case the underthread k may be entirely suppressed..
The machine when arranged for the latter purpose only, may be constructed as
represented at Figs. 27 and 28 and need not be described as the like parts thereof
bear the same letters of reference with the machine described above, the principal
difference being that the thread carrier a and its moving parts are suppressed.

page_text: In Figs. 30 and 31 we have represented an arrangement by which the looper can
easily be exchanged for the various purposes and which is equally applicable to the.
machine represented in Figs. 3 and 8. The pitman of the looper plays within a
recess in the wheel V and is held therein by a circular bolt 100, Figs. 30 and 31.
Upon opening said circular bolt by making it slide on its studs 101 and 102 the
looper can easily be taken from or replaced into the machine.
A new ornamental stitch, represented at Fig. 34, may also be produced on
this machine when it works with a single needle and single thread, by the
addition of a cord 88, as represented Figs. 18 and 19, provided that a thick
thread or cord 103 is employed on the rotating thread carrier C, as represented
Fig. 29, it is produced in the following manner. The pinion 47 (Fig. 3) is shifted
on the main shaft 2 so as to throw it out of gear from pinion 48, thus the thread
carrier C will not turn any more with shaft 2 but it can still be turned by the
crank W, and by turning the latter rapidly, the cord 103 (Fig. 29) will be wound
around the cord 88 once at each turn of the crank handle W, while at the same
time the machine will produce the small chain stitch circles 104 (Fig. 34) which
fix the two interlaced cords to the material and thus produce the ornamental scam
represented Figure 34.
MACHINE WITH LIMITED FEED MOTION :-
When the machine is to be employed only as a limited edging machine it can
be much simplified, as then the feed need turn only about one third of a turn, and
the needles, the nipple and the rotating thread carrier need not turn at all with the
crank handle W. The machine for this purpose is represented with its parts at
Figs. 4, 6, 7 and 11, and the similar parts bear the same letters as in the machine
with universal feed motion.
The double loopers h, i,, are secured to the lever 57, to which its. suitable motion
is imparted by the action of the crank pin 58 of the pinion 59, while its forked
shaped end is guided rectilinearly by the stud 60. The pinion 59 receives an
oscillating motion from the toothed sector 66, and each of the loopers h, i, describes
au oscillating motion around its needle in the line of an ellipse 61 (Fig. 7) and
thus winds its thread around the needle.
A similar motion is imparted to the thread carrier which lays its thread
transversally into the stitches on the under side of the material; it is secured to the
lever 63 which is actuated by the eccentric stud 62 of the pinion 64 which is also
actuated by the toothed sector 66, and the end of lever 63 is guided rectilinearly
by stud 65.
The toothed sector 66 is operated from the main shaft 2 of the machine through
the pinion 5 (Fig. 4) which drives wheel 6 of double its diameter; and (by means
of an eccentric on its shaft) pitman 7, lever 69, connecting rod 68, pitman 67 which
is linked to a lever of the toothed-sector 66.
It is evident that also the same ornamental seams can be produced on this
machine as on the one shown and described in Specification to Letters Patent
No. 467 of 1888. A cord can also be introduced in the work, as represented
Figs. 18 and 19, by passing a cord 88 between or behind the needles A, B, through
the cording guide 91 (Fig. 19) which will then be interlaced in the threads and
which, according to the tension given to one or to the other of the needle threads,
will appear on the edge or on the central line of the seam and produce an
ornamental work as represented on an enlarged scale at Fig. 17, in which 105
represents the threads of the two needles A, B, which are drawn and tied to the
cord 88 by the thread 106 of the revolving thread carrier C:
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we
claim is :-
1. In combination with a piece or pieces of fabric of the seam herein described

page_text: consisting of two lines of stitches, a thread wound spirally around both lines on
one side of the fabric and a thread crossed back and forth on the other side of the
fabric and interlaced alternately with said two lines of stitches, substantially as
described.
2. The mechanism herein described for guiding the needles A, B, the looper h, i,
the revolving thread carrier C, and the reciprocating thread carrier, by means of
the crank handle W during their operations so that the scam can be produced in
all directions by means of the universal feed.
3. In combination with a machine such as described in Specification to Letters
Patent No. 17,128 of 1888. having its bobbin on its central tube, a rising and
descending thread carrier C operated by means of the cam 86 of the nipple tube
and by a spring 89.
4. In combination with a machine such as described in Specification to Letters
Patent No. 17,128 of 1888 having its bobbin on its central tube, a brake lever T
which floats above said hobbin when the machine is in operation and which descends
on it as soon as the machine is stopped, substantially as and for the purpose specified.
Dated this Tenth day of September 1891.
For the Applicants,
W. E. GEDGE,
Agent.