IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF CHAINS, BRACELETS. NECKLACES. AND OTHER SIMILAR ARTICLES OF TEREID
Year: 1867

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Auguste Cahen Lion, of Paris, France, Jeweller,
for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF CHAINS,
BRACELETS. NECKLACES. AND OTHER SIMILAR ARTICLES OF TEREID"
Sealed the 29th November 1867, and dated the 13th June 1867.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Auguste Cahen Lion at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
18th June 1867.
I, AUGUSTE CAHEN LION, of Paris, France, Jeweller, do hereby declare the
nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF
CHAINS, BRACELETS, NECKLACES, AND OTHER SIMILAR ARTICLES OF JEWELRY," to
be as follows:-
These improvements relate to the manufacture of a new description of
jewelry, more particularly applicable for chains, bracelets, necklaces, and
other articles of the same class.
The Figures of the annexed Drawings will at once make the Invention
fully understood. A wire a (Figs. 1 and 2) of gold, silver, or other suitable
metal, and of any desired shape or size, is wound on a flat or other suitable
core 6 so as to form a flat, spiral, or helic A, which latter is then removed
from the core, and after being sufficiently stretched out (in the manner as
shown by Fig. 3) is coiled upon a core d (Fig. 4) viz., in such manner so as
to form a ribbed wire cylinder B, the ribs of which are obtained by causing

page_text: the rounded angles x of each coil to enter into those y of the preceding one,
after which the said wire cylinder is formed into one continuous chain by
winding or rather screwing into the said angles (forming so many loops)
another spiral wire c, viz., causing this wire c (in the manner as shown in the
Figs. 5 and 6) alternately to enter into the angle or loop x of one coil, and
into the one y of the preceding coil. The continuous chain thus obtained may
be made use of in this state, or the same may be twisted, drawn out, flattened,
or shaped in any other suitable manner, and employed for necklaces, chains,
or other articles, or serve for ornamenting other articles of jewelry.
The Figs. 7 and 8 show a modification of the process. The wire c is done
away with and replaced by several wires e connecting together at the outside
the series of loops x and y touching each other in the longitudinal direction.
Fig. 9 shows another modification. In this two or more wires a¹ and a³,
similar to the one a of the preceding Figures, are connected together length-
wise, and coiled together on a core d the loops of one coil of this multiple
wire are connected to those 2¹ of the preceding one by means of a spiral
connecting wire c.
In the modification Fig. 10 the spiral connecting wire c serves for receiving
a number of rings f which are successively engaged thereon, and form ribs
analogous to those x and y of the wire cylinder B, Fig. 4.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Auguste Cahen Lion in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
18th December 1867.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, AUGUSTE
CAHLEN LION, of Paris, France, Jeweller, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Thirteenth day of June, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-seven, in the thirty-first year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me,
the said Auguste Cahen Lion, Her special licence, that I, the said Auguste
Cahen Lion, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I,
the said Auguste Cahen Lion, my executors, administrators, and assigns,
should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all.
times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might
make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain
and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "I-

page_text: PROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF CHAINS, BRACELETS, NECKLACES, OR OTHER
SIMILAR ARTICLES OF JEWELRY," upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the
said Auguste Cahen Lion, my executors or administrators, by an instrument
in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should
particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in
what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in
the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately
after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Auguste Cahen Lion, do hereby declare
the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:-
The Invention relates to the manufacture of a new description of jewelry,
the principle of which is applicable to the manufacture of chains, bracelets,
necklaces, and various other articles of the same class. These new articles of
jewelry are formed of two distinct parts, each of which is prepared separately,
and which are afterwards connected in such manner so as to cause them to
form one body, the meshes, loops, or mails of which being connected in an
invariable manner, but so as to impart to the jewel the required suppleness
and pliability, no other soldering being made use of than that required for
finishing the terminal ends of the jewel. Each of the two just mentioned
separate parts consists of a wire of gold or other precious or other suitable
metal, either hollow or solid and of a round, square, rectangular, triangular, or
other suitable shape having either a plain, an engraved, or otherwise orna-
mented surface, the said wires being either both of the same or of different
metals, and each of them consisting either of one or of several wires suitably
twisted together.
In order to make the Invention more easily and fully understood I will in
this description thereof refer to the annexed Drawings, in the various Figures
of which the same letters refer to corresponding parts.
Fig. 1 shows on an enlarged scale a partly finished jewel constructed
according to my Invention, the Figs. 2, 3, 4, 5, & 6, showing the various
operations of manufacturing the jewel by means of the above-mentioned wires.
The mode of operating is as follows:-A wire a is laid spirally, viz., in the
manner represented respectively in longitudinal front, and in side view in the
Figs. 2 & 3 round a core c of a flat or other suitable shape, and after the said
core has been withdrawn therefrom the spires of the wire are a little stretched
out, viz., in the manner as shown in Fig. 4; in this state the wire is laid in
the manner, as shown in Fig. 5, round a core d of a cylindrical shape so as to

page_text: form a spiral or helix, care being taken that the undulations or wavings of each
turn of the spiral should enter into the corresponding ones of the preceding
turn, viz., in the manner as represented in the Figs. 1 & 5, from which Figures
may be observed that the undulations or bendings produced in the wire a by
its having been wound on the flat core c will by this winding on the core d
form as it were so many loops or rings, which are kept in position by the
core d, and by their mutually entering into each other, which loops are now
connected into one body by causing a second wire c of the same or of a dif
ferent shape and metal than the one a, and which has been previously formed
into a helix, viz., in the form of a helical spring by having been laid round a
oylindrical core to be inserted, in the manner as shown in Fig. 1, in the loops,
undulations, or rings of the wire a, the latter remaining for that purpose on
the core d, it being preferable for performing this part of the operation that
the wire a should be kept steady, whilst the wire c is made to turn in such
manner as to become inserted successively in the entangled loops or rings of
the wire a. This operation may consequently be compared with that of
screwing a screw into its nut.
In Fig. 1 part of the jewel is represented in the finished state, the same
offers great strength and flexibility, and allows of being either stretched out
or more or less contracted, and it may be annealed in this extended or con-
tracted state so as to constantly resume it as the normal state. The jewel now
presents at the outside a series of ribs e formed by the undulations of the
wire a, the number of which ribs will vary according to the distance at which
the helixes of Fig. 4 have been laid apart.
The Figs. 7, 8, & 9 show some slight modifications in the manufacture of
my jewels, each of which offers a different appearance, though the general
principle of their mode of manufacture remains the same, viz., forming loops
or undulations over the length of a wire a, which primary wire is then laid
spirally on a core 6 so as to cause the loops or undulations of entangling into
each other, and which loops or undulations are afterwards connected together
by the insertion therein of one or more helical wires c, the said wires c being
wound or so to say screwed successively into all the adjacent loops of the
primary wire a.
The Figs. 1 & 6 show the relation which exists between the looped wire a
and the spiral wire c, which connects together the loops of the wire a; the
Figs. 7 & 8 show the looped wire a laid on the core d in such manner as to
form on the outside of the jewel six longitudinal ribs e. For manufacturing
this class of jewels a number of wires c corresponding with that of the ribs
is wound successively into all the adjacent loops extending respectively over

page_text: each of the said ribs e formed on the outside of the jewel by the loops corre-
sponding with the quantity of loops produced at each winding round the
circumference of the core on which the wire is laid and according to the
diameter of this core.
Fig. 9 represents a cross sectional view of a six-ribbed jewel constructed
cylindrically, viz., in a manner similar to that represented in the Figs. 7 & 8,
two wires c only being inserted in the loops of two ribs e situated diametrically
opposite to each other, after which the jewel has been flattened so as to assume
the shape shown in Fig. 9; it will be understood that a semicircular, an oval,
or any other suitable cross sectional shape might have been given to the jewel.
My round or flattened jewels may in a similar manner be reduced in bulk in
different degrees, either by stretching them out or by causing the ribs e to be
drawn nearer to each other in pairs, viz., two by two in a parallel manner, as
shown in Fig. 10, by which means the jewel will lose partly in suppleness,
which may however be regulated at pleasure.
Fig. 11 represents a bracelet, the loops of which are represented only in the
part marked f; Fig. 12 shows part of a waistcoat chain, the loops of which
are indicated in the part marked g only.
I may also by mere twisting modify the direction of the longitudinal ribs 6,
viz., transform them from rectilinear into spiral lines, in the manner as shown
in Fig. 13, the jewel remaining either cylindrical or be flattened, or its sec-
tional shape being modified in various manners, and the same be annealed in
these various states; this twisting may take place over the entire length of the
jewel or over part only of it. The jewels obtained by the modes of manu-
facture above described will consequently present in cross section a round
shape, which may however be modified at pleasure by causing them to pass
between rollers, or by suitable matrixes, or other suitable means so as to
impart to the jewel a flat, oval, or other suitable shape, whilst any suitable
ornaments may be further affixed to them by soldering or other suitable
means.
Having thus described and particularly ascertained the nature of my
Invention, and the manner in which the same is or may be carried into effect,
I declare that I do not intend to restrict or restrain myself to the precise
details of the modes of manufacture above described, as many variations may
be made therein without departing from the principles or main features of my
Invention; but what I consider to be novel and original, and therefore claim
as the Invention secured to me by the herein-before in part recited Letters
Patent is, the modes of manufacturing bracelets, necklaces, and other jewels
of the same class by suitably winding or inserting and causing to adhere

page_text: together two or more spiral wires, substantially as above described and
illustrated in the annexed Drawings.
In witness whereof, I, the said Auguste Cahen Lion, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, this Seventh day of December, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-seven.
Witness,
DREYFOUS,
Eng". Civil.
ATE. C. LION. (L.S.)