IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF WOVEN FABRICS
Year: 1873

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Stannard Warne, of Nos. 3 and 4, Bruton Street,
Bond Street, in the County of Middlesex, Decorator and Upholsterer,
for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF WOVEN
FABRICS."-Partly a communication from abroad by Raffaelle Pinti,
of 1, Via della Scala, Firenze, in the Kingdom of Italy.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Stannard Warne
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition,
on the 12th March 1873.
I, STANNARD WARNE, of Nos. 3 and 4, Bruton Street, Bond Street, in
the County of Middlesex, Decorator and Upholsterer, do hereby declare
the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE
OF WOVEN FABRICS," to bo as follows:-
This Invention has for its object mainly to obtain upon woven fabrics
a figure having a raised or metallic appearance hardly to be distinguished
at a short distance from hand embroidery.

page_text: The effect is produced by means of a peculiar weft thread, of which
the figure is formed. The preparation of this weft thread is such as to
cause it to present a multitude of small angles, which break up and
reflect the light falling upon them. For this purpose the weft is formed
of three threads, two of these are very fine threads laid together, the main
purpose they serve is to hold in form a third thread, on which the effect
depends. This third thread is a lustrous silk thread comparatively thick
and having very little if any twist upon it, it is laid in very slack and
held in a crimped or zig-zag form; or a similar effect may be produced
if one thin thread only be used with the thicker thread laid loosely
round it and flattened so as to produce crimps or sharp bends.
When weft threads prepared in this manner are woven into a fabric
the figure so produced presents a number of minute glittering points
and a very rich effect is the result, hardly distinguishable from
embroidery.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Stannard Warne in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 12th September 1873.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, STANNARD
WARNE, of Nos. 8 and 4, Bruton Strect, Bond Street, in the, County
of Middlesex, Decorator and Upholsterer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Twelfth day of March, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-three, in the
thirty-sixth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors,
give and grant unto me, the said Stannard Warne, Her special license
that I, the said Stannard Warne, my executors, administrators, and
assigns, or such others as I, the said Stannard Warne, my executors,
administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no
others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the term
therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the
Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for “IMPROVEMENTS IN THE
MANUFACTURE OF WOVEN FABRICS," the result partly of communication from
abroad made to me by Raffaelle Pinti, of 1, Via della Scala, Firenze, in

page_text: the Kingdom of Italy, and partly of invention and discovery mado by
myself, upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said Stannard
Warne, my executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing
under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly
describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what
manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed
in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and
immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Stannard Warne, do hereby declaro
the nature of the said Invention and in what manner the same is to
be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement thereof, that is to say :—
This Invention has for its object mainly to obtain upon woven fabrics
a figure having a raised or metallic appearance hardly to be distinguished
at a short distance from hand embroidery.
The effect is produced by means of a peculiar weft thread of which
the figure is formed. The preparation of this weft thread is such as to
cause it to present a multitudo of small angles which break up and
reflect the light falling upon them. For this purpose the weft is formed
of threo threads, two of these are very fino threads, laid together, tho
main purpose they serve is to hold in form a third thread on which the
effect depends. This third thread is a lustrous silk thread compara-
tively thick and having very little twist upon it, it is laid in very
slack and hold in a crimped or zig-zag form.
When weft threads prepared in this manner are woven into a fabric
the figure so produced presents a number of minuto glittering points,
and a very rich effect is the result, hardly distinguishablo from
embroidery.
In order that the said Invention may be most fully understood and
readily carried into effect, I will proceed to describe the method in which
it is preferred to conduct the manufacture. The weft on which the
fabric depends for the superior richness of its effect is best made in
the manner illustrated by the annexed diagram, in which the colored
lines represent two fine threads laid together and the black line
represents the comparatively stout or body thread, which they serve
to hold in form. The fine threads may be of the quality known in the
trade as organzino. The comparatively thick thread or body may be

page_text: '
"
such as are technically known as "threads." The way in which these
threads are put together to form the compound weft is, by preference
as follows: The thick or body thread is first thrown, say, to the right
and with 30 turns to the inch, then the thick or body thread is combined
with one of the fine threads as a binder and the two are thrown together!
to the left, say, with 50 turns to, the inch; lastly, the second fine thread
is applied and is combined with the others by throwing them together
again to the right, say, with 25 turns to the inch. The compound
thread will then have the appearance represented in the diagram, the
amount of twist being such as in the finished weft to make about 25 1
turns to the inch, but this may be varied. If a silvery effect be desired
the compound.weft is if necessary bleached and is then ready for use in
the loom. If an effect resembling gold embroidery be desired the woft
may be dyed to a golden yellow tint. These colors are more suitable and
produce better effects than any others, nevertheless the weft may be
dyed to other tints. The weaving is conducted by preference as, is usual
for the production of silk damasks, the weft appearing on the surface of
the fabric to form the pattern. Sometimes two shuttles' are used
carrying different wefts as is well understood. Although this Invention
is especially applicable to the production of silk fabrics it may also be
applied to the production of fabrics of wool or other fibre, or a compound
silk weft may be employed together with a weft of other fibre, say for
example, of wool.
-
What I claim is the manufacture of woven fabrics, with a weft such
as herein described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Stannard Warne, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Tenth day of September, in the year of
ons Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-three