Improvements in the manufacture of Doots a
Year: 1899

page_text: Improvements in the manufacture of Doots a
I, JOHANN ALTMANN, of Mannheim F 2, 2, in the Empire of Germany, Boot-
maker, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
My invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of boots and shoes.
These improvements consist in a peculiar cut of the pieces of leather sewed
together to form the upper of the boot or shoe, the portions which cover the
foot being made of double pieces and the portions which cover the ankle and
the leg being made of single pieces; and furthermore in the mode of joining
an upper thus produced with the sole, the inner part of the upper being laid
round the stitched part and sewed between the welt and the sole, so that the
boot or shoe will be perfectly waterproof and will look as though it had a double
sole.
In the accompanying drawing I have represented a mode of carrying my said
invention into effect,
Figure 1 shows one of the cut pieces of which the upper is composed.
Figure 2 shows how one piece of leather is placed on the other before they are
bent together to form the upper.
Figure 3 is a perspective view of the upper joined together as seen from the
right hand side.
Figure 4 is a similar view as seen from the left hand side.
Figure 5 is a vertical section through the boot or shoe sewed together, showing
the connection of the upper with the welt, the insole and the sole.
The upper of the boot or shoe consists substantially of two similar pieces
peculiarly cut.
A piece cut in this manner, as represented in Fig. 1, is adapted to be used
for the manufacture of half boots. The middle part a of this piece is designed
for covering the leg, the part forms the quarter, and the part the front of
the boot or shoe. Upon this piece is laid a second piece cut to a similar shape
and consisting of the parts a¹, as shown in Fig. 2. If now the two pieces
are bent together about the line of symmetry the two parts a and a come
together as in Figs. 2 and 4. wherein the right and left side of the upper are
shown when bent together. Between the parts and b¹ I insert the cap so that
the same is not visible and cannot exert a pressure upon the foot. Between the
parts a and a, which overlap behind, the strap for putting on the boot or shoe
may be fastened, thereby obviating the use of a special covering piece. After
sewing the parts together the leg is finished.
As will be seen, the upper so made is double around the foot, such seams as
would exert a pressure upon the foot heing obviated, inasmuch as the two

page_text: parts and do not overlap, but are placed side by side and sewed to the
continuous half underneath. Around the leg and ankle, that is to say, the points
where the shoe should be movable and pliable, the upper is single and flexible.
The use of separate lining material, which particularly in the case of perspiring
feet, is liable to putrefaction in the boot or shoe, is not needed in a double upper.
Accordingly by my method I not only obtain exceedingly strong and durable,
yet very supple and comfortable boots or shoes, but such boots and shoes answer
all requirements from the hygienic point of view, as by dispensing with the
lining greater cleanliness in the interior of the boot or shoe is rendered possible
in consequence of easy and thorough cleaning, and greater protection from cold
and moisture is afforded.
In order to obtain a thoroughly waterproof boot or shoe by means of the upper
made according to the method hereinbefore set forth I proceed as follows:
One of the two halves of the upper, which is designed to form the inner part
or lining, is made so much broader that, after making the stitching f connecting
the welt with the upper and the insole e, such half can be turned over out-
wards around the stitched part, and can be cut together with the welt d. Then
the sole is put on and secured by the stitching h. This stitching takes in
the edge of the upper at the same time. In a boot or shoe thus made the stitch-
ing is entirely surrounded by the inner part of the upper forming the lining.
By this means water is prevented entering from the outside, and the lower part
of the boot or shoe is rendered more durable than usual. The lightest boots
and shoes can in this way be made perfectly water-proof and will at the same
time remain quite smooth in the interior.
Date this 18th day of December 1899.
J. LINCOLN & Co.,
Agents for the Applicant.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes.
JOHANN ALTMANN, of Mannheim F 2, 2, in the Empire of Germany, Boot-
maker, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement:---
My invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of boots and shoes.
These improvements consist in a peculiar cut of the pieces of leather sewed
together to form the upper of the boot or shoe, the portions which cover the
foot being made of double pieces and the portions which cover the ankle and
the leg being made of single pieces; and furthermore in the mode of joining
an upper thus produced with the sole, the inner part of the upper being laid
round the stitched part and sewed between the welt and the sole, so that the
boot or shoe will be perfectly waterproof and will look as though it had a double
sole.
In the drawing filed with the Provisional Specification I have represented a
mode of carrying my said invention into effect.
Figure 1 shows one of the cut pieces of which the upper is composed.
Figure 2 shows how one piece of leather is placed on the other before they are
bent together to form the upper.
Figure 3 is a perspective view of the upper joined together as seen from the
right hand side.

page_text: Figure 4 is a similar view as seen from the left hand side.
Figure 5 is a vertical section through the boot or shoe sewed together, showing
the connection of the upper with the welt, the insole and the sole.
The upper of the boot or shoe consists substantially of two similar pieces
of peculiar cut.
A piece cut in this manner, as represented in Fig. 1, is adapted to be used
for the manufacture of half boots. The middle part a of this piece is designed
for covering the leg, the part forms the quarter, and the part e the front of
the boot or shoe. Upon this piece is laid a second piece cut to a similar shape
and consisting of the parts ac, as shown in Fig. 2. If now the two pieces
are bent together about the line of symmetry the two parts a and a¹ come
together es in Figs. 3 and 4, wherein the right and left side of the upper are
shown when bent together. Between the parts and b' I insert the stiffening
piece above the heel so that the same is not visible and cannot exert a pressure
upon the foot. Between the parts and a¹, which overlap behind. the strap for
putting on the boot or shoe may be fastened, thereby obviating the use of a special
covering piece. After sewing the parts together the leg is finished.
As will be seen, the upper so made is double around the foot, such seams as
would exert a pressure upon the foot being obviated, inasmuch as the two
parts be and be do not overlap, but are placed side by side and sewed to the
continuous half underneath. Around the leg and ankle, that is to say, the points
where the shoe should be movable and pliable, the upper is single and flexible.
The use of separate lining material, which particularly in the case of perspiring
feet, is liable to putrefaction in the boot or shoe, is not needed in a double upper.
Accordingly by my method I not only obtain exceedingly strong and durable,
yet very supple and comfortable boots or shoes, but such boots and shoes answer
all requirements from the hygienic point of view, as by dispensing with the
lining greater cleanliness in the interior of the boot or shoe is rendered possible
in consequence of easy and thorough cleaning, and greater protection from cold
and moisture is afforded.
In order to obtain a thoroughly waterproof boot or shoe by means of the upper
made according to the method herein before set forth I proceed as follows:
One of the two halves of the upper, which is designed to form the inner part
or lining, is made so much broader that, after making the stitching f connecting
the welt with the upper and the insole e, such half can be turned over out-
wards around the stitched part. and can be cut together with the welt d. Then
the sole g is put on and secured by stitching h.
This stitching takes in the edge of the upper at the same time. In a boot
or shoe thus made water is prevented entering from the outside, and the lower part
of the boot or shoe is rendered more durable than usual. The lightest boots and
shoes can in this way be made perfectly water-proof and will at the same time
remain quite smooth in the interior.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is:-
1. A method of manufacturing boots and shoes, according to which two similar
pieces provided with parts a covering the leg, and with parts b forming the
quarter, and parts forming the front of the boot or shoe, are laid symmetrically
one upon the other and bent together along the line of symmetry, thereby form-
ing an upper which is double around the foot and single around the leg and
ankle. substantially as specified.
2. In the manufacture of boots and shoes having a double upper, the arrange-
ment of the stiffening piece between the parts b. overlapping behind, so that
it is completely covered, and not liable to exert any pressure upon the foot, sub-
stantially as specified.
3. In the manufacture of boots and shoes having a double upper, the turning

page_text: of the inner part of the upper over around the stitched part outwards and sewing
it in between the welt and sole, substantially as specified.
4. Boots and shoes made as for the purpose herein before set forth with reference
to the drawing.