Improvements relating to the Manufacture of Stiffening Fabrics for Use in Making Skirts and other Articles of Dress.
Year: 1897

page_text: Date of Application, 18th Mar., 1897-Accepted, 26th June, 1897
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements relating to the Manufacture of Stiffening Fabrics
for Use in Making Skirts and other Articles of Dress.
I, NATHAN HIRSCH, of 98 Greene Street, New York, United States of America,
Merchant, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement :-
The present invention relates to fabrics to be used for stiffening skirts, and the like
and is especially designed for the purpose of providing a stiffening fabric which shall
give all the necessary support to the dress goods in conjunction with which it is used,
and shall also possess such resilient, elastic characteristics as to permit of its adapting
itself to the different positions of the dress, consequent upon different postures of the
wearer. With this object in view, I first weave a twill fabric, preferably a three leafed
twill, in which the filling or weft threads are loosely spun, while the warp threads are
tightly spun.
In the spinning of threads for use in the weaving of textile fabrics, the tighter the
thread is spun the greater will be the difficulty in extracting the oily matter therefrom
in the subsequent treatment. This results from the fact that when the thread is spun
very tightly the oily matter contained in the fibres of the material operated upon is
driven to the outer surface, and in the subsequent treatment resists, to a very great
extent, the action of the treating fluids. When the threads are loosely spun, the oily
matter does not exude to the outer surface, and at the same time, the fibres of the
strand are left open for the more perfect penetration of the fluids used to extract the
same. In the case of ordinary fabrics it is not of primary importance that all the oil
contained in the fibres should be entirely extracted, but, in the case of my fabric it is
essential for the reason, that in the subsequent sizing treatment, it is necessary that the
fabric should be impregnated with size to the very utmost extent.
The twilled fabric having the filling or weft threads of the loosely spun character
and the warp threads of the tightly spun character is shown in the accompanying
drawing, in which Fig. 1 is an enlarged view of a piece of my fabric, Fig. 2 is a cross-
section along line x x of Fig. 1, and Fig. 3, is a view of the finished product.
In the drawing, A represents the warp threads and B the filling threads.
In carrying out my invention I take a woven fabric of the character herein described
and submit it to a treatment whereby the oils contained in the fibres of the material
operated upon are extracted. After the fabric has passed through this oil extracting
process, it is subjected to a sizing process, which, by reason of the extraction of all the
oil from the fabric thoroughly impregnates the strands thereof.
Afterwards the fabric is dyed a suitable color and is then subjected to a tentering
action whereby the stiff fabric is broken down to a pliable condition, and the threads
of the weft and warp connected by the sizing are separated so as to move freely
relatively to each other.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is:
1. A twill woven stiffening fabric, the fibres of which are free from oil, impregnated
10
1
their haine of lancale on

page_text: fibres and the warp threads of relatively tightly spun fabrics, substantially as
specified.
2. The process of making stiffening fabrics, which consist in subjecting a two or
more leafed twill fabric to the action of an oil extracting solution, then impregnating
the same with size, drying and then subjecting it to a treatment to separate the threads
connected by the sizing, whereby the fabric is rendered resilient and pliable,
substantially as specified.
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101
1 1007
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
45 Southampton Buildings, W.C., Agents for the Applicant.

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