IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FIGURED CLOTH
Year: 1868

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to David Mitchell, of 49, Peel Street, Macclesfield,
in the County of Cheshire, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN
THE MANUFACTURE OF FIGURED CLOTH."
Sealed the 8th December 1868, and dated the 17th June 1868.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said David Mitchell at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on
the 17th June 1868.
I, DAVID MITCHELL, of 49, Peel Street, Macclesfield, in the County of
Cheshire, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IM-
PROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FIGURED CLOTя," to be as follows:-
The improvement in this cloth is that the figure is raised without
wadding or stuffing, and that the yarn is not loose, i.e., it does not float,
but that of itself, by the way in which it is manufactured or made, it
raises its own figure.

page_text: In carrying out this Invention yarns from two-yarn beams are
required. The yarn from one beam is to form the plain cloth, and it is
termed face yarn; the yarn from the other beam is to form the figure,
and it is termed stitching yarn, and there are also required fine weft
and coarse weft from two shuttles.
The progressive motions of the yarns and wefts are thus :-The face
yarn is to be formed tabby, that is, one end up and one end down
throughout, and at the same time the stitching yarn also is to be formed
tabby. This position of the yarns makes what is termed a shade, through
which the shuttle runs; this first shade is for a pick of fine weft. Then
to make a second shade the stitching yarn only is to be changed to form
the figure; this second shade is for a pick of coarse weft. Both the
yarns are then changed to the following position:-The face yarn and
the stitching yarn are to be formed the reverse tabby to that of the first
shade; this position of the yarns makes a third shade, and this third
shade is for a pick of fine weft. Then to make a fourth shade the
stitching yarn only is to be changed to form the figure, and this fourth
shade is for a pick of coarse weft. Thus the said process of the four
shades and the four picks continued as stated will produce the cloth
which I intend to denominate as "Mitcheline."
And it will be seen that the stitching yarn works thus:-For the first
pick of weft, tabby; for the second pick of weft, to form the figure; for
the third pick of weft, the reverse tabby; and for the fourth pick of
weft, to form the figure.
And the face yarn works thus -For the first two picks of weft, tabby
without changing; and for the second two picks of weft, the reverse
tabby without changing.
The forming of the tabbics in the face yarn is termed face shades, and
there are in the arrangement two face shades, and it will be seen that
the first and second picks of weft go into the first face shade, and that
the third and fourth picks of weft go into the second face shade; thus it
will be seen that there are two picks of weft in one shade, and two picks
of weft in one shade is termed tape in weaving; and it is by inserting
the tape in the above arrangement that makes the cloth entitled
"Mitcheline;" and it is that part of the arrangement which I claim as
the original Inventor.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said David Mitchell in the Great Seal Patent Office on
the 17th December 1868.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, DAVID
MITCHELL, of 49, Peel Street, Macclesfield, in the County of Cheshire,
send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Seventeenth day of June, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-eight, in the thirty-first
year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and
grant unto me, the said David Mitchell, Her special licence that I, the
said David Mitchell, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or suck
others as I, the said David Mitchell, my executors, administrators, and
assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to
time and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed,
should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the
United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, .the Channel Islands,
and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE
OF FIGURED CLOTH," upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said
David Mitchell, my executors or administrators, by an instrument in
writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should
particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention,
and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the
same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar
months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters
Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said David Mitchell, do hereby declare
the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is
to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement:-
The nature of the cloth is, that it is a single and solid cloth with
neither weft nor warp floated, and the figure is raised without wadding
or stuffing.
And the manner in which it is to be performed or woven is as
follows:-There is required to be yarn from two beams, the yarn from

page_text: one beam is to form the pram crown and is termed
face yarn,
yarn from the other beam is to form the figure and is termed "stitching
yarn," and there are also required "fine weft" and "coarse weft" from
two shuttles.
The progressive motions of the yarns and wefts are thus:-The face
yarn is to be formed "tabby," that is, one end up and one end down
throughout the reeds space, and at the same time the stitching yarn, which
may be worked with one or more ends together, is to be formed " 'tabby,"
this position of the yarns makes what is termed "a shade" through which
the shuttle runs; this first shade is for a pick of fine weft. Then to
make a second shade the stitching yarn only is to be changed to form
the figure, and this second shade is for a pick of coarse weft. Both the
yarns are then changed to the following positions:-The face yarn and
the stitching yarn are to be formed the reverse" tabby" to that of the
first shade; this position of the yarn makes a third shade, and this third
shade is for a "pick" of fine weft. Then to make a fourth shade the
stitching yarn only is to be changed to form the figure; and this fourth
shade is for a pick of coarse weft. Thus the said process of the four
shades, and the four picks continued as stated will-produce the cloth
entitled "Mitcheline,"
And it will be seen that the stitching yarn works thus:-For the
first pick of weft, "tabby"; for the second pick of weft, to form the
"figure"; for the third pick of weft, the "reverse tabby"; and for
the fourth pick of weft, to form the "figure."
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And the face yarn works thus:-For the first two picks of weft,
tabby" without changing; and for the second two picks of weft, the
reverse tabby" without changing.
The forming of the "tabby's" in the face yarn is termed "face
shades," and there are in the arrangement two face shades; and it will
be seen that the first and second picks of weft go into the first face
shade, and that the third and fourth picks of weft go into the
second face shade; and this shews that there are two picks of weft in
one face shade, and two picks of weft in one shade is termed
in weaving; and it is by inserting the
tape
66
tape
دو
"in the manner stated
in the above arrangement, that makes the cloth entitled "Mitcheline";

page_text: and it is that part of the arrangement which I claim as the original
Inventor.
In witness whereof, I, the said David Mitchell, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, this Seventeenth day of December, in
the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-
eight.
DAVID MITCHELL. (L.S.)
DAVID MITCHELL. (L.S.)