Sewing Machines
Year: 1886

page_text: I JOHN KAYSER Manufacturer, of Kaiserstantern, Bavaria, German Empire do
hereby declare the nature of my invention to be as follows:-
I
This invention refers to improvements in Sewing Machines for the production of
zig-zag stitches, ornamental stitches, over cast seams, and button-hole stitches, and
the improvements consist of a simplification of the mechanism for the movement of
the needle bar case of the sewing machine; further an arrangement for the easy
adjustment of the stroke of the needle bar case, and lastly, the arrangement of a
hook worked by the machine for the production of an ornamental stitch,
In the accompanying drawings are:-
Figure 1 a side elevation of the mechanism for the movement of a needle bar
case after the removal of the covering plate shown in Figure 2. Figure 3 a section
on line L-L of Figure 1. Figure 4 a section on line B-B of Figure 2. Figure 5
is a section of the adjusting lever on line V-V of Figure 2. Figures 6 and 7 are
details of the mechanism, and Figure 8 is a general view of the above mentioned
parts. Figures 9, 10, and 11 represent the head of the machine, with hook for the
ornamental stitch in side elevation, front elevation, and plan. Figure 12 a plan of
the work plate. Figure 13 the overcast stitch or button hole stitch, without the
ornamental thread, and Figure 14 a-g the same stitch with the ornamental thread
and the formation of this stitch.
The case A¹ for the needle-bar A Figures 1 to 8 can move laterally in the
head B, of the arm B, as the pins 6 fixed to the case can move in the guides 6¹
upon the head B¹. To the ends of the pins b are fastened cross-pieces c, by
screws c¹ which cross-pieces are connected by a bar D, fixed by the screws c. This
bar D receives its lateral movement from the principal driving shaft B³ in the
following manner.
In the arm B of the machine is journalled the principal driving shaft B³ which
moves the needle bar A up and down in the well known manner. On this shaft B
is fixed the bevil pinion E engaging the bevil wheel F; these wheels are in the
proportion of 2 to 1. The latter turns on a shaft G and is thereon held in position
on one side by the collar gl of the shaft G on the other side by the nut g' screwed
on to the shaft G and fitting into a recess in the wheel F. The shaft G is fixed
with its thinner end in the arm B and with the other end in the cover-plate H.
This coverplate H is represented in Figure 2 and is fixed to the head B by the
three screws h, fitting in the holes h¹ of head B¹. The shaft G is carried through
the coverplate H, and is provided with a screw thread g³, which tits into a ferrule
acrew in the plate H. On the end of the spindle G is a button or head G' with
milled edge or the head and spindle may be in one piece, so that in turning this
head the shaft G can be moved a short distance laterally in either direction. This
distance limited by the collar g² of the spindle G and the head G² is equal to the

page_text: depth of the teeth of the bevel-pinion E so that by turning the head G³ either to
the right or left the bevel pinion E and bevil wheel F will either engage or dis-
engage. This arrangement has for its object to use the machine not only for
button hole or ornamental stitch but for ordinary work also when the needle need
not be moved laterally. The wheel F is provided with a cam groove f Figure 1 on
the side opposite the arm of the machine. In this groove moves a little roller i
Figures 1 and 7 which rotates on the pin of the cross-piece I. This cross-piece I
joins two guide-bars K which move laterally in the lugs & of plate H and are fixed
to the cross-piece I by the screws k³.
whose
The cross-piece I carries another pin on which turns one end of the curved
lever L, the other end of which engages with a slot or guide M Figure
guide-block is secured to the lever L by the screw . The elongation of this
lever L is hollow and carries a small tooth point on a pin which ends in the
button L'. A spiral spring 13 presses the tooth point, so that it always engages
with one of the teeth m₁ on the outer periphery of the slot or guide piece M.
When the button L' is drawn back the lever L with the guide block / can be
moved in the slot or guide of M until it is secured in the desired position by letting
the button L³ go and engaging the tooth point in the respective position on the
tooth segment m². The slot or guide piece M is pivotted to the plate H at m. On
a lug N of the guide or slot piece M is a pin n which reaches through the plate H
and has at its end a square guide block n² moving in a vertical slot of the bar D.
Where the spindle G passes this bar D has an enlarged opening d. The bars K are
slotted out at k¹, Figure 7 to make room for the bar D.
The mechanism operates as follows:-
In sewing with the needle bar case movable in a lateral direction the bevil
pinion and wheel E and F are engaged by screwing the button G' inwards as
shown in Figure 3. In this manner the shaft B2 also turns the wheel F and the
wheel F makes one revolution, while the pinion E makes two. The rotary motion
of the wheel F will cause the frame I K K to move laterally as the roller i is
obliged to follow the course of the cam groove f. As the lever L is also pivotted to
the cross piece I, this lever will also move in accordance with the cam groove f.
The lever L is also joined to the slot or guide piece M and this slot or guide piece
will therefore also move more or less round its pivot m according to the position of
the guide block in the alot or guide so that the movement of M is smallest when
the lever L is in the lowest position and largest when the lever L is in the highest
position. With the slot or guide piece M the guide block n² will move which is
fixed to it and which guide block will cause a lateral movement of the cross-bar D
and with this of the needle bar case A. It will now be seen that the lateral
movement of the needle bar case can be adjusted by the adjustment of the guide
block I, of the lever L, in the slot or guide of M, and that the cross stitches can
be made either larger or smaller according to the position of the lever L. This
arrangement is subject to modifications but without deviation from the spirit of
the invention.
7
Figure 13* shows
Figure 13° from
Figure 12 represented the work plate with the stitch holes.
the stitch from the top Figure 13b from the underside and
the edge.
According to the lateral movement of the needle the stitch hole o in the work
plate is of an oval form in whose right corner from the operator is the well known
semi circular pin o¹. The needle passes once through the material and into the left
corner of the stitch hole, the next time the needle having been moved laterally
passes the material on the right side into the right corner of the stitch hole mean-
while the feed bar o* moves the material always for the length of one stitch and
the shuttle o³ has finished one movement laterally in each direction.
The stitch made in this manner shows on the upper side the zig-zag form repre-
sented in Figure 13 while on the under side the needle thread only passes in loops
from the stitch hole to the edge see Figure 13b. The shuttle thread Figure 13
joins the loops of the needle thread meeting at the edge of the material.

page_text: The zig-zag stitch of the needle thread can be furthermore ornamented by
introducing an extra ornamental thread see Figure 14 and this is accomplished by
a special needle or thorn receiving an independent movement from the machine
represented in Figures 9-12.
The thorn P is bent in form of a sickel and is provided in its point with an
eye p and on its outer side with a deep groove p¹ serving as a guide for the orna-
mental thread which groove p¹ ends in a deep notch or hole p³ for the reception
of the ornamental thread. The thorn P is moved laterally with its eye p close in
front of the needle a; for this object the thorn P is fixed in the slanting spindle Q
journalled in the bearings of the bracket Q1 by the screw q. This spindle Q is pro-
vided with a bevil pinion q¹, engaging with a bevil segmentul fixed on the
spindle R by the key v in a groove. The spindle R is journalled in the head B¹ of
arm B and slides in this journal in the direction of its longitudinal axis. The other
end of spindle R is provided with a lever S whose end with a roller runs in a
second cam groove fi of the wheel F. Through the rotary motion of the wheel F
the lever S with the spindle R will make small oscillation, which will be also
imparted to the spindle Q and the thorn P.
:
The spindle R slides in its journal in the head B¹ so that it can follow with the
lever St the movement of the wheel F in case this is disengaged by the button G³
when common stitch is to be used. But as the segment v¹ is not to follow this
movement this segment slides on the spindle R through its groove and spring
arrangement v. The right distance of segment and bevil pinion g' is always
secured through the fork t screwed onto the side together with bracket Q¹ and
engaged in a circular groove * on the boss of the segment v.
Figure 14 shows the ornamental stitch and Figures 14-14 the production
thereof. Suppose the needle has just attained its highest position (Figure 14b) and
is now going downwards to enter into the right corner of the stitch-hole that is
just past the edge of the material. During this movement of the needle the
thorn P with the ornamental thread z held on one end by the last stitch makes a
movement towards the needle (Figure 14°) and passes close in front of the needle
in such a manner that the needle thread x must pass over the front end of
the thorn (Figure 14ª) (and P* Figure 12). At the same time the needle passes
downwards through the loop formed by the ornamental thread into the stitch hole
in the work plate and the thorn moves back quickly into the position P¹ Figure 12
(Figure 14°) The loop of the ornamental thread will therefore be held by the
needle until the latter ascends to pass to the stitch o' after the material is moved
by the feed bar for the length of one stitch (Figure 14') While the needle passes
down to o is descending the thorn P has completed its utmost backward move-
ment (P³ Figure 12) and has tightened the loop of the ornamental thread (Figure 148)
By the needle passing through the material at of the needle thread x will fix the
ornamental loop on to the material.
The movement is repeated now, the needle passing again to the edge of the
material and the thorn moving towards the needle (Figure 14b) The ornamental
thread can according to taste consist of a thinner or stouter silk thread passing
from a spool on the arm of the machine over a pair of tension discs U and an eye u
in the well known manner and thence through the notch p along the groove p¹
through-the eye p of the thorn. The needle thread x passes in the usual manner
from the spool to the eye of the needle. If the ornamental thread mechanism is
not to be used the thorn P is either removed from the spindle Q or the spindle R
is pressed forward so that the roller of the lever S does not engage with the cam
groove f¹ of the wheel F and the thorn P remains stationary.

page_text: I JOHN KAYSER, Manufacturer, of Kaiserstantorn, Bavaria, German Empire, do
hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to
be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:.
This invention refers to improvements in Sewing machines for the production of
zig-zag stitches, ornamental stitches overcast seams and button hole stitches and
the improvements consist of the simplification of the mechanism for the movement
of the needle bar case of the sewing machine; further, an arrangement for the
easy adjustment of the stroke of the needle bar case, and lastly the arrangement
of a book worked by the machine for the production of an ornamental stitch.
In the accompanying drawing are:-Figure 1 a side elevation of the mechanism
for the movement of the needle bar case after the removal of the covering plate
shown in Figure 2. Figure 3 a section on line a a of Figure 1. Figure 4 a
section on line ẞ-B of Figure 2. Figure 5 is a section of the adjusting lever on
line of Figure 2. Figures 6 and 7 are details of the mechanism and Figure 8
is a general view of the above mentioned parts. Figures 9, 10 and 11 represent the
head of the machine with hook for the ornamental stitch in side elevation front
elevation and plan; Figure 12 a plan of the work plate Figure 13 the overcast
stitch or button hole stitch without the ornamental thread and Figure 14 a-g the
same stitch with the ornamental thread and the formation of this stitch.
The case A¹ for the needle bar A. Figures 1-8 can move laterally in the head B¹
of the arm B as the pins 6 fixed to the case A' can move in the guides 61 upon the
head B¹. To the ends of the pins b are fastened cross-pieces c by screws c¹ which
cross-pieces are connected by a bar D fixed by the screws c³. This bar D receives
its lateral movement from the principal driving shaft B³ in the following manner.
In the arm B of the machine is journalled the principal driving shaft B which
moves the needle-bar A up and down in the well known manner. On this shaft B'
is fixed the bevel pinion E engaging the bevel wheel F, these wheels are in the
proportion of 2 to 1. The latter turns on a shaft G and is thereon held in position
on one side by the collar gl of the shaft G on the other side by the nut g² screwed
onto the shaft G and fitting into a recess in the wheel F. The shaft G is fixed
with its thinner end in the arm B and with the other end in the cover plate H.
This coverplate H is represented in Figure 2 and is fixed to the head B¹ by the
three screws h fitting in the holes h¹ of head B¹. The shaft G is carried through
the cover plate H and is provided with a screw thread g³ which fits into a female
screw in the plate H. On the end of the spindle G is a button or head G³ with
milled edge or the head and spindle may be in one piece so that in turning this
head the shaft G can be moved a short distance laterally in either direction.
This distance limited by the collar g' of the spindle G and the head G is equal to
the depth of the teeth of the bevil pinion E so that by turning the head G³ either
to the right or left the bevil pinion E and bevil wheel F will either engage or
disengage. This arrangement has for its object to use the machine not only for
button-hole or ornamental stitch but for ordinary work also when the needle need

page_text: not be moved laterally. The wheel F is provided with a cam groove / Figure 1 on
the side opposite the arm of the machine. In this groove moves a little roller i
Figures 1 and 7 which rotates on the pin' of the cross piece I. This cross-piece I
joins two guide-bars K which move laterally in the lugs k of plate H and are fixed
to the cross-piece I by the screws k².
The cross piece I carries another pin on which turns one end of the curved
lever L the other end of which engages with a slot or guide M Figure 5 whose
guide block is secured to the lever L by the screw 1. The elongation of this
lever L is hollow and carries a small tooth point on a pin which ends in the
button L³.
A spiral spring presses the tooth point so that it always engages with one of
the teeth m on the outer periphery of the slot or guide piece M. When the
button L' is drawn back the lever L with the guide block 1 can be moved in the
slot or guide of M until it is secured in the desired position by letting the button L³
go and engaging the tooth point in the respective position on the tooth segment m².
The slot or guide piece M is pivoted to the plate H at m. On a lug N of the
guide or slot piece M is a pin n which reaches through the plate H and has at its
end a square guide-block n³ moving in a vertical slot of the bar D. Where the
spindle G passes this bar D has an enlarged opening d. The bars K. are slotted out
at k¹ Figure 7 to make room for the bar D.
The mechanism operates as follows:-
In sewing with the needle bar case movable in a lateral direction the bevel
pinion and wheel E and F are engaged by screwing the button G' inwards as
shown in Figure 3. In this manner the shaft B also turns the wheel F and the
wheel F makes one revolution, while the pinion E makes two. The rotary motion
of the wheel will cause the frame I K K to move laterally as the roller i is obliged
to follow the course of the cam-groove f. As the lever L is also pivotted to the
cross piece I, this lever will also move in accordance with the cam groove f. The
lever L is also joined to the slot or guide piece M and this slot or guide piece will
therefore also move more or less round its pivot m according to the position of the
guide block in the slot or guide, so that the movement of M is smallest when the
lever L is in the lowest position, and largest when the lever L is in the highest
position. With the slot or guide piece M, the guide block n³ will move which is
fixed to it and which guide block will cause a lateral movement of the cross bar D
and with this of the needle bar case A¹. It will now be seen that the lateral
movement of the needle bar case can be adjusted by the adjustment of the guide
block of the lever L in the slot or guide of M and that the cross stitches can be
made either larger or smaller according to the position of the lever L. This
arrangement is subject to modifications but without deviation from the spirit of
the invention.
Fig. 12 represents the workplate with the stitch holes. Fig. 13 shows the stitch
from the top, Fig. 13b from the underside and Fig. 13° from the edge.
According to the lateral movement of the needle the stitch hole o in the work-
plate is of an oval form in whose right corner from the operator is the well known
semi circular pin o¹. The needle passes once through the material and into the left
corner of the stitch hole, the next time the needle having been moved laterally
passes the material on the right side into the right corner of the stitch hole,
meanwhile the feed bar o* moves the material always for the length of one stitch
and the shuttle o³ has finished one movement laterally in each direction.
The stitch made in this manner shows on the upperside the zig-zag form
represented in Fig. 13%, while on the underside the needle thread only passes in
loops from the stitch hole to the edge see Fig. 13b. The shuttle thread Fig. 13°
joins the loops of the needle thread meeting at the edge of the material.
The zig-zag stitch of the needle thread can be furthermore ornamented by
introducing an extra ornamental thread see Fig. 14" and this is accomplished by
a special needle or thorn, receiving an independant movement from the machine
represented in Fig. 9—12;
v

page_text: The thorn P is bent in form of a sickel and is provided in its point with an
eye p and on its outer side with a deep groove p' serving as a guide for the
ornamental thread x, which groove pl ends in a deep notch or hole p' for the
reception of the ornamental thread. The thorn P is moved laterally with its eye p
close in front of the needle a; for this object the thorn P is fixed in the slanting
spindle journalled in the bearings of the bracket Q1, by the screw q. This
spindle is provided with a bevil pinion q' engaging with a bevil segment r
fixed on the spindle R by the key r in a groove. The spindle R is journalled in
the head B' of arm B and slides in this journal in the direction of its longitudinal
axis. The other end of the spindle R is provided with a lever S whose end with a
roller runs in a second cam groove f¹ of the wheel F. Through the rotary motion
of the wheel F the lever S with the spindle R will make small oscillation, which
will be also imparted to the spindle Q and the thorn P.
The spindle R slides in its journal in the head B¹ so that it can follow with the
lever S the movement of the wheel F in case this is disengaged by the button G¹
when common stitch is to be used. But as the segment is not to follow this
movement this segment slides on the spindle R through its groove and spring
arrangement r. The right distance of segment and bevil pinion q¹ is always
secured through the fork t screwed on to the side together with bracket Q¹, and
engaging in a circular groove 3 on the boss of the segment r¹.
Fig. 14 shows the ornamental stitch and Figs. 145-14 the production thereof.
Suppose the needle has just attained its highest position, (Fig. 14b) and is now
going downwards to enter into the right corner of the stitchhole that is just past
the edge of the material. During this movement of the needle the thorn P with
the ornamental thread Z, held on one end of the last stitch makes a movement
towards the needle: (Fig. 14°) and passes close in front of the needle in such a
manner that the needle thread a, must. pass over the front end of the thorn:
(Fig. 14d); (and P' Fig. 12). At the same time the needle passes downwards
through the loop formed by the ornamental thread into the stitchhole in the work-
plate and the thorn moves back quickly into the position P¹ Fig. 12 (Fig. 14°).
The loop of the ornamental thread will therefore be held by the needle until the
latter ascends to pass to the stitch of after the material is moved by the feed bar
for the length of one stitch (Fig. 14). While the needle passes down to o* in
descending the thorn P has completed its utmost backward movement (P³ Fig. 12)
and has tightened the loop of the ornamental thread (Fig. 14). By the needle
passing through the material at of the needle thread will fix the ornamental loop
on to the material.
:
The movement is repeated now, the needle passing again to the edge of the
material and the thorn moving towards the needle (Fig. 14b). The ornamental
thread can, according to taste, consist of a thinner or stouter silk thread passing
from a spool on the arm of the machine over a pair of tension discs U and an
eye u in the well known manner and thence through the notch p³ along the
groove pl through the eye p of the thorn. The needle thread x passes in the
usual manner from the spool to the eye of the needle. If the ornamental thread
mechanism is not to be used, the thorn P is either removed from the spindle Q or
the spindle R is pressed forward so that the roller of the lever S does not engage
with the cam groove f¹ of the wheel F and the thorn P remains stationary.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is
1. In a sewing machine the combination with a needle bar case A¹ for the needle
bar of the guide pins b and the frame D which frame receives a lateral movement
from the guide block n' substantially as specified.
2. In a sewing machine the combination with a needle bar case A¹ for the needle
bar A with the guide pins b, the frame D, guide block n' and the alot or guide
piece M joined to the guide block, substantially as specified.

page_text: 3. In a sewing machine the combination with the needle bar case A', guide
pins b, frame D, slot or guide piece M of the lever L one end of which is adjustable
in the slot or guide piece M and the mechanism for fixing the lever L in its position
consisting of the tooth point with pin button L' and the tooth segment m³
substantially as specified.
4. In a sewing machine the combination with the needle bar case A', frame D,
slot or guide piece M and lever L of the frame I K K sliding in the guide slots k
of the cover plate H substantially as specified.
5. In a sewing machine the combination with the needle bar case A', frame D,
slot or guide piece M, lever L, frame I K K and roller i of the cam groove f and
the bevil pinion and wheel E and F, substantially as specified.
6. In a sewing machine the combination of bevil pinion E with bevil wheel F,
spindle G having the collar g¹ and nut g³, screw thread g³ and button G³, substantially
as specified.
7. In a sewing machine for zig-zag stitches the thorn P with eye p and groove pl
fixed in the slanting spindle journalled in the bearings of bracket Q₁ substantially
as specified.
8. In a sewing machine the combination of the bevil wheel F having the cam
groove f1, lever S and spindle R, segment r¹ bevil pinion q' spindle Q and thorn P
substantially as specified.
in the
9. In a sewing machine the combination of fork t, with circular groove
boss of the segment 1 for the purpose of moving the spindle R in the boss of
segunent substantially as specified.
10. In a sewing machine the complete mechanism for imparting the lateral
movement to the needle bar A constructed and operating substantially as specified
and shown in Figs. 1 to 8 of the accompanying drawings.