Improvements in the Manufacture of Boots, Shoes, and Slippers.
Year: 1892

page_text: Date of Application, 22nd-Dec., 1892
Complete Specification Left, 14th July, 1893-Accepted; 7th Oct., 1893
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Boots, Shoes, and Slippers.
We, HENRY FISHER SEXTON, HENRY WALTER SEXTON, ARTHUR SEXTON,
and JESSE SEXTON, of the Firm of Henry Sexton and Sons, Fishgate Street,
Norwich, in the County of Norfolk, Boot, and Shoe Manufacturers, do hereby
declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
:―
This invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of boots, shoes, and
slippers; and its object is to provide a ready and effective method of attaching the
soles of boots, shoes, and slippers, to their uppers partly by a linen, flax, hemp,
cotton, or the like thread or cord, such as for instance machine or other sewing, and
partly by a metallic fastening, such as for instance nailing, rivetting or the like or
equivalent means; or the upper and sole may be united together wholly or in part
by both means.
A convenient method, and one that may be taken simply as an illustration, of how
this invention may be carried into practice is as follows:-
The upper, after being cut and sewn together in the usual manner, is placed over
the last, and it may or may not, be held in position thereon by any desired number
of tacks or tingles.
A slit of suitable depth may or may not be cut or made on each side of the upper
at the points at which the sewing is to commence and terminate. The sole of the
boot, shoe, or slipper is also split longitudinally, that is, the thickness of the sole is
divided or split into two portions, say for instance from the back of the heel to its
breast, and from the point where the splitting terminates a channel may be cut all
round the forepart of the outer portion of the sole at a suitable distance from its
edge, that is, the channel may commence, say on one side of the sole at or about
the waist and runs all round the forepart of the sole until the waist is again reathed.
The inner part of the split portion of the sole may or may not be slightly reduced
in size and may also be skived around its edges.
The split and channelled sole is placed upon the last and held in position by
ordinary means, the edges of the forepart of the upper, that is, from waist to waist,
having been previously turned outwards for allowing them to be sewn onto the sole,
either before or after the edges of the heel portion of the upper have been turned
inwards and tacked or lasted on to the inner portion of the sole.
After which the
other or outer part of the split portion of the sole may be fastened down thereon by
any convenient means. The line of stitching is arranged to pass within the channel,
and also to be seen on the upper surface of the outward turned portion of the
upper. The channel may be closed, the heel built and attached, and the boot, shoe,
or slipper finished in the usual manner.
When desired the splitting of the sole and lasting of the upper between the split
portions thereof may be extended beyond the breast of the heel, or to other portions
of the boot, shoe, or slipper. Or when required the inward turned portion of the
upper may be sewn onto the inner portion of the split sole in place of being
fastened down by metallic fastenings.
For the purpose of more securely attaching the upper to the sole, the parts sewn
together may be wholly or in part, if preferred, also metallically secured together
as well as sewn.
Dated the Nineteenth day of December 1900.
HENRY FISHER SEXTON.
HENRY WALTER SEXTON.
ARTHUR SEXTON.
JESSE SEXTON.

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Boots, Shoes, and Slippers.
We, HENRY FISHER SEXTON, HENRY WALTER SEXTON, ARTHUR SEXTON,
and JESSE SEXTON, of the Firm of Henry Sexton and Sons, Fishgate Street,
Norwich, in the County of Norfolk, Boot, and Shoe Manufacturers, do hereby
declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:-
"
This invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of boots, shoes, and
slippers; and its object is to provide a ready and effective method of attaching the.
soles of boots, shoes, and slippers, to their " uppers," partly by a linen, flax hemp,
cotton, or the like thread or cord, such as for instance machine or other sewing, and
partly by a metallic fastening, such as for instance nailing, rivetting or the like or
equivalent means, or the upper and sole may be united together wholly or in part
by both means.
In the drawings hereunto annexed two methods are shown of carrying our
invention into practice, but we distinctly wish that these methods should be simply
taken as illustrations.
-
°
Fig. 1. is a part elevation of a boot or shoe with the sole partly split at the heel
to receive the heel portion of the upper.
Fig. 2. is a plan of the boot or shoe shown at Fig. 1.
Fig. 3. is a transverse section on line a. x. Fig. 1.
Fig. 4. is an elevation of the split sole.
Fig. 5. is a part elevation of a boot or shoe showing the upper partly sewn and
partly lasted to the sole.
Fig. 6. is a part longitudinal section of a boot or shoe on line y. y Fig. 7.
Fig. 7. is a plan of the boot or shoe shown at Fig. 5.
Like parts in all the views are marked with the same letters of reference.
The upper A after being cut and sewn together in the usual manner, is placed
over the last, and it may or may not, be held in position thereon by any desired
number of tacks or tingles.
A slit B of suitable depth may or may not be cut or made on each side of the
upper" at the points at which the sewing is to commence and terminate. The
sole C of the boot, shoe, or slipper is also split longitudinally, that is, the thickness
of the sole is divided or split into two portions c c¹ say for instance from the back D
of the heel to its breast D', and from the point where the splitting terminates a
channel E may be cut all round the forepart of the outer portion of the sole at a
suitable distance from its edge, that is the channel may commence say at e on one
side of the sole at or about the waist and runs all round the forepart of the sole
until point e' at the waist on the opposite side is again reached.
The inner part c¹ of the split portion of the sole may or may not be slightly
reduced in size, and may also be skived around its edges.
The split and channelled sole C is placed upon the last and held in position-by
ordinary means the edges of the forepart of the "upper" a, that is from waist to
waist, having been previously turned outwards at or about a right angle for allowing
them to be sewn by machinery on to the upper part of the sole (as described in the
Specification of Letters Patent granted to Henry Sexton the Thirteenth day of
January 1892 No. 671) either before or after the edges a' of the heel portion of the
upper have been turned inwards and tacked or lasted in the ordinary manner
onto the inner portion c¹ of the sole. After which the other or outer part c of the
split portion of the sole may be fastened down thereon by any convenient means,
such as by tacks, rivets, or tingles. The line of stitching is arranged to pass
within the channel E and also to be seen on the upper surface a of the outward
"

page_text: turned portion of the "upper." The channel may be closed, the heel F built and
attached, and the boot, shoe, or slipper finished in the usual manner.
When desired the splitting of the sole and lasting of the "upper" between the
split portions thereof may be extended beyond the breast of the heel, or to other
portions of the boot, shoe, or slipper. Or when required the inward turned portion
of the " upper may be sewn onto the inner portion of the split sole in place of
being fastened down by metallic fastenings.
"
In some cases and when preferred instead of splitting the sole C as shown
at Fig. 4 we provide an inner sole Gas shown at Figs. 5 and 6.
"
When the inner sole G is used it. is cut about the same size, or nearly so, as the
outer sole C and the edge a of the forepart of the "upper A is turned outwards
at or about a right angle and sewn by machinery, to the upper face. of the two
soles C and G, and the heel portion a' is lasted to the inner sole G by any ordinary
means. It will be readily seen that the inner sole G in this method simply takes
the place of the split portion c¹ of the sole shown at Figs. 1 and 4, and that the same
result is obtained as when the sole is formed in one piece and then split longitudinally
as herein before described.
For the purpose of more securely attaching the "upper" to the sole the parts
sewn together may be wholly or in part, if preferred, also metallically secured
together as well as sewn by machinery.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we
claim is :-
1st. A boot, shoe, or slipper in which the edge of the forepart of the "upper" is
turned outwards and sewn as set forth to the upper surface of the sole whilst the
edge of the heel or rear portion is turned inwards and inserted between the split
portions or layers of the sole and lasted thereto as described and illustrated.
2nd. In a boot, shoe, or slipper the employment of a sole, a portion of which is
split longitudinally to form an upper and a lower layer to permit of the edge of the
rear portion of the "upper" being turned inwards and inserted between the said two
split portions previous to being lasted to the upper layer whilst the edge of the
forepart of the "upper" is turned outwards and sewn to the top of the sole as
described.
3rd. In the manufacture of boots, shoes and slippers a sole formed in or split into
two portions to form an upper and lower layer, substantially as and for the purposes
herein described and illustrated.
4th. The combination in a boot, shoe, or slipper of a sole either formed in, two
portions such as C and G, or one portion C split for a portion of its length to form
two layers, such as c c', for receiving and allowing the turned in edge of the rear
portion of the "upper" to be lasted thereto, whilst the edge a of the forepart of
the "upper" A is turned outwards and sewn to the upper surface of the sole.
5th. The improvements in the manufacture of boots, shoes and slippers
substantially as herein described and illustrated at Figs. 1 to 7 of the accompanying
drawings.
Dated the 10th day of July 1893.
HENRY FISHER SEXTON.
HENRY WALTER SEXTON.
ARTHUR SEXTON.
JESSE SEXTON.