Improvements in or appertaining to the Manufacture of Hosiery and in Contrivances therefor.
Year: 1892

page_text: Date of Application, 15th Nov., 1892
Complete Specification Left, 15th Aug., 1893-Accepted, 28th Oct., 1893
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in or appertaining to the Manufacture of Hosiery and
in Contrivances therefor.
I, GEORGE FREDERICK STURGESS of Park Road New Evington Leicester in
the County of Leicester Hosiers Engineer do hereby declare the nature of this
invention to be as follows
This invention refers to improvements in or appertaining to the manufacture of
hosiery and in contrivances therefor, and relates chiefly to hose and the like
manufactured upon circular, or circular reversible kuitting machines, and certain
improvements in needles used therein.
In order that my invention may be clearly understood reference is now made to
the ordinary way of manufacturing seamless hose. The leg is knitted from a
continuous rotating thread, the heel is knitted sectionally from the same thread
reciprocating in a variable semi-circle, the foot is made in the same manner as the
leg, and the toe in the same manner as the heel, from the one thread, splicing or
re-inforcing threads being added at the heel or other parts most subject to wear
whilst the circular portions of the said ribbed hose may be made up of two sets of
loops and present one or more of the various patterns which the combination of two
sets of loops permit, namely, "normal rib fabric," "tucked rib fabric," "multiciplicity
of loops,"
"miss stitch rib fabric," "multiciplicity of meshes," "double fabric,"
two plain fabrics back to back, all of which is hereinafter referred to, as a back
and front fabric the said sectional knitted parts, such as the knee, heel and toe,
have previously been made up of one set of loops and present a plain single fabric.
The change from "a back and front fabric" to "plain single fabric" is effected by
transferring certain loops of the one set into those of the other set at a point above
the heel where the thread deviates from a rotating to a reciprocating course.
This is carried out in the following or equivalent manner. The work having
been set up on the two sets of needles, ("back and front") fabric is made with a
continuous circular motion of the knitting thread until the leg portion is finished.
The back set of loops (rib loops) upon one half of the circle are then transferred to
and become part of the corresponding half section of the front set of loops (plain
loops). Plain single fabric is then made with a reciprocating motion of the thread
over the said half section, and at every reciprocation of the thread the outermost
loop of the section is suspended by the needle being rendered inactive. This
diminishing process is repeated until the half section is reduced to one third of the
section at this stage the apex of the heel is reached when at every reciprocation of
the thread the innermost of the suspended loops is reinstalled by the needle being
returned to active service. This enlarging process is repeated until the one third
section is again increased to said "half section," or one half of the circle. The
heel having thus been finished, the circular motion of the thread is resumed and the
foot is then knitted in the manner required. The said transferred section of the
back set of loops as set forth are not re-transferred, and consequently the instep
remains " plain single" fabric whilst the upper part of the foot remains "back
and "front" fabric. The foot having been thus far finished, the reciprocating
motion of the thread is resumed and the toe knitted in "plain single" fabric in
exactly the same manner as the heel.
I have described the most comnion method of making or forming a sectionally
fashioned seamless hose, but modifications are made, more particularly in the heel
and toe, by varying the manipulation of the needles. Sectionally knitted knees
have also been made in "plain single" fabric, in a similar manner to the sectionally
formed heel and toe. The particular working positions of the two sets of needles

page_text: used in the machines employed in the making of the article above mentioned are as
follows: The front set (cylinder needles) which are used to make the front fabric,
or "plain single " fabric, have a working position and an idle position, and can be
rendered active or inactive "singly" or "collectively" at will, and whilst the front
cams are in positive action, for the purpose of sectional knitting. The back set
(dial needles) which are employed to make the back fabric have a working position
only and cannot be rendered inactive whilst the back cams are in positive action,
and are only employed for circular knitting, hence the reason that the knees, heelś
and toes have heretofore been made perforce on the one set of needles and in the
form of "plain single" fabric only. With this explanation I wish it to be
distinctly understood that heretofore the circular part of seamless hose, such as
the leg and foot have been made up of two sets of loops, whilst the sectionally
knitted parts, such as the knee, heel and toe, have been made only with one set of
loops; that the machines used to make the said article, or articles, are provided
with one set of needles (rib needles) which have no second or inactive position and
caunot be requisitioned for the purpose of making variable sectionally knitted
knees, heels and toes in "back and front" fabric.
"
The first part of my invention consists of seamless hose of the various kinds
having variable sectionally knitted heels toes, knees; or insteps circularly knitted
with two sets of loops, and made up of "back and front" fabric. These heels, toes,
knees, or insteps are similar to the leg inasmuch that they are composed of "back
and front" fabric, but they may be similar or dissimilar in pattern for instance the
leg may be made up of normal one and one rib pattern while the knee, heel, toe,
or instep may be all or part knitted, in two plain fabrics back to back, or in
tucked ribbed fabric, or in "mis-stitch" rib fabric, or in fabric having plain front
and rib back. It will therefore be seen that many variations of the pattern, design
or style of the article can be made with "back and front" fabric knees, heels
and toes and insteps by slightly modifying the manipulations of the two sets of
needles employed, whether by hand, or mechanical appliances. These heels, toes,
kuees or insteps conform better to the human shape, are more yielding give a more
elastic tread, allow a better ventilation and circulation do not become matted and
pulpy with perspiration, give a more comfortable fit, the heel does not get under
the foot, the feet do not become." baggy," and are altogether superior to the present
made, knees, heels, toes and insteps; besides being more economically manufactured,
the time of transferring and re-transferring of loops being saved.
The manner of fashioning or producing the aforesaid sectionally knitted parts are
as follows: When the circular leg has been knitted, instead of transferring the
loops, disconnecting the driving pin and letting the inner cams remain stationary
and so changing the kuitting to one set of needles only, I allow the two sets of
needles to remain in action on half the 'circle of needles, the driving pin to remain
in action with the inner cams (whether the said inner cams have to reverse simul-
taneously with the outer cams, or only have an intermittant forward motion as
bereinafte explained) and commence to reciprocate the thread across the half
circle of the two sets of needles, diminishing the section at every time, by rendering
the outermost needle of the two sets inactive, taking the diminishing needle from
either set in their turn according to their arrangement and relative quantity until
the apex of the heel is reached when at every reciprocation of the thread I reinstall
the innermost needle of the two sets into active service in the same order until the
heel is finished.
The needles of the two sets are allowed to remain intact then to the end of the
foot, and the instep is in consequence made of "back and front" fabric.
To form what is known as a fashioned gusset at the commencement of the instep
I remove several needles on either side of the machine transferring their loops on
to the adjacent needles these intakes make tubular narrowings in the fabric by
removal of one or more complete ribs. When turning through the foot, if the
instep is to be made of any other pattern than normal rib fabric, I bring the
tucking and mis-stitching apparatus forming the subject of my previous Patent

page_text: No. 13706 of 1890, into action, whereby the instep is made up of tucked rib fabric,
mis-stitched rib fabric, plain front and ribbed back, or two plain fabrics back to
back, according to the even or uneven quantities and arrangement of the two sets
of needles, as may be required. I also bring the said tucking and mis-stitch
apparatus into action to increase the number of tucked or mis-stitch loops made in
the heel, toe or knee. It will be understood that the knee and toe is made exactly
in the same way as the beel.
The particular working positions of the two sets of needles in my improvements
for making, or the manufacture of my improved hose are these. The front set
(cylinder needles) have a working and idle, active or inactive position. The back
set (dial needles) have an idle or inactive position in the same manner as the front
set so as to enable them to be rendered inactive or active singly or collectively at
will whilst the cams on the motive parts of the machine are in motion by which
means they can be employed seperately or in conjunction with the front set of
needles for making the said "variable sectionally knitted" knees, heels and toes.
The improved parts and their combinations refer chiefly to the inner set of
needles provided in the machine in order to carry out my invention which is
accomplished as follows:-Whether the cams operating the inner set of needles
employed are of the reversible type (now used in making flat rib fabrics,); or of the
ordinary circular type I provide an idle or inactive position for the needles between
the indraw cam or cams and the outer circle of needles. By cutting away part of the
said indraw cam, the inner set of needles can then be drawn forward until their feet
take the inactive position, the inner loops are thereby suspended at will, either
singly or collectively. I strengthen the attenuated portion of the said indraw cam,
or cams, by increasing the depth of metal at that part and widening it out again
above the level of contact with the needle feet, the said indraw cam points are
Swivelled or pivoted and held in position by the influence of springs in order to make
them of a yielding nature to prevent jamming when the said points are struck by
the feet of the needles. To further avoid such jamming I batter the ends of the
needle feet to a fine point. The action part of a needle as is well known
that
part which fulfils the knitting motions and extends from the hook end to the back
of the foot. Beyond the foot is the tail, this tail is considerably shorter than the
"action" part of the needle and is provided for the purpose of riding underneath
the needle stand of the cam plate to prevent the needle when at rest tipping out of
its groove and becoming deranged and setting the machine fast.
The said needle stand which covers the tails and holds the needle in its working
position as above described is of such dimensions that the needle when at rest
It must
remains entirely within the circle described by the outer set of needles.
be remembered that the idle path is beyond the outer circumference of the cams
and it will therefore be seen that to pull one of the said short tailed needles
forward until the foot reached the "idle" path would withdraw the needle tail
from underneath the needle stand entirely it would consequently tip up out of its
groove and so set the machine fast. To prevent this tipping of the needle when
drawn into the inactive position, I use several means the first of which comprises an
annular ring fixed concentric with and on the outer side of the cylinder level with
the inner circle of needles, when such needles are drawn out to the inactive position
they become supported, or held in the proper position in the grooves by the said
ring, which may be segmental, and may be attached to, or form a part of the
cylinder clasp ring and is detachable in a body or in segments. Or I make the
needle with a longer tail than usual, such tail part may be as long or of greater
length than the action part of the needle so that the tail will reach underneath the
stand when such needle is drawn out in the inactive position-small machines not
admitting such a long tail. I make such tail collapsible, either by a telescópic,
swivelled, hinged or pivoted end.
Or I make the needle stand of such dimensions that the needle when at rest extends
beyond the circle described by the outer set of needles to the middle position (with
the loops on the open latch) or to the clearing position (with the loops at the back

page_text: of the open latch) this enlarged needle stand also allows the needle whether short
tailed or otherwise to be drawn into the inactive position without tipping out of
the groove. In the last case the enlarged needle stand would act as a clearing cam,
and facilitate reversible knitting without the employment of a clearing cam as
heretofore. The said needle stand is made thin on its outer edge to enable the
operator to withdraw the needle by its foot, and cut away a section of the needle
stand, or make a section thereof displacable in order that the needles can be
removed. The needle stand may be in one piece, but to enable me to make it
adjustable to any diameter, I make it collapsible in the form of slides, or pivoted
sections I can thereby expand or contract it into the first position (with the
needles entirely within the circle described by the outer set of needles). Or into
the second position (with the needles extended beyond the outer circle of needles
and loops on the open latch), or into the third position (with the loops behind the
open latch), or in any intermediate position I might expand it further than this for the
purpose of pushing a section of the needles into the "idle" path when commencing
sectional knitting. Any of the aforesaid means may be used separately or in
combination for the purpose described. And be it understoood that with these
devices, combinations and arrangement of two sets of needles I can make two
distinct and seperate hose or the like of "plain single" fabric on one complete
machine. To accomplish which I employ an auxilliary yarn guide and latch
opener, with one thread to feed the inner circle of needles, and the other to feed
the outer circle of needles, the inner set knitting one complete hose, and the outer
set knitting another complete hose simultaneously, the said pair of hose coming
from the machine one within the other. Or tubular knitted fabric, or sectionally
knitted fabric coming from the machine, one piece within the other.
I wish it to be understood that though the inner set of cams are compelled to knit
occasionally when making the knees, heels and toes, it is not imperative that they
should reciprocate in keeping with the outer set of cams unless the pattern is
"normal rib" fabric when they form a loop at every reciprocation, and with the
formation of the outer set of loops. And though in the making of other patterns
of fabric for heels and toes the inner set of cams may be "idly" reversed they are
not required to knit loops in the backward motion as the needles have to
accumulate tuck loops, or make mis-stitch loops, which said tuck or mis-stitch loops
can be formed equally as well by allowing the inner cams to remain stationary in
the backward motion according to the position of the needles when at rest.
being taken up again and performing their part of knitting at the succeeding
forward motion, or at intermittant forward motions of the front set of cams
according to the number of tuck loops to be accumulated or mis-stitches to be
missed. This explanation shows that there are divers ways of employing the
inner cams to do the same thing. I therefore of necessity have different devices
and means of controlling the said cams as hereafter enumerated.
And
When the cams have to circumferentially make time or loose time in relation to
the outer set of came in the performance of the reciprocating motion, I employ a
loose cam driving segment on the inner set of cams, it is either sliding or pivotal
for the purpose.
When in the performance of the reciprocating movement the inner set of needles
are thrown out in the rear of the latch opener, I provide an additional latch
opener to prevent the latches closing, and when feeding a splicing or re-inforcing
thread to the said inner needles I make the latch opener with an additional thread
guide.
When the inner cams are not required to reciprocate I make the driving pin
self acting and arrange it with the driving plate so that the pin will carry the
cams round when going in the forward direction but leave them stationary when
going in the backward direction, which I accomplish by a small balance catch
on the driving plate. Or by having an inclined surface on the driving plate, in
the forward motion the pin will impinge against the balance catch or vertical side
of the incline surface, in the backward motion the pin will ride up the incline, or

page_text: overbalance the catch whichever is used, and pass over the driving plate without
giving motion to the cams which are allowed then to remain stationary until the
next forward motion. I may hinge the heel pin itself and to facilitate it riding up
the incline I round or point the lower end thereof. I may also employ two
different lengths of driving pin, the longer one to be employed to enter the hole,
and the shorter one to act upon the incline of the driving plate in circular or
reciprocating knitting respectively. Or I shorten the driving pin by making its
head movable, when the head is upright the pin falls to its lowest depth, when the
head is thrown off its equilibrium the pin is raised. When the inner set of cams
are required to make a forward motion intermittently a shorter stroke has to be
made to prevent the driving pin from reaching the driving plate.
Another part of my invention has for its object the prevention of latches
closing, and throwing stitches off and to dispense with the latch opener.
It consists of a needle having a tail piece attached to the latch, when
the knitted loop is beyond the open latch the said loop rests on the tail piece,
and thereby controls the action of the latch, the needle being made in the
following manner, the eye in which the latch is pivoted is extended lower down
the stem, and the tail of the latch rests partly therein, the latch is made with
the tail piece attached on its under side, either near the pivot, with a slot between
to allow the loop to slide up the latch, or at the cup end and without the slot ;
in this case the loop is lifted or levered over by the latch and does not slide up
the latch as heretofore. The hook point of a needle often pricks the operators
fingers, the cup of a latch is a hollow pretuberance which closes on to the hook
point and allows the knitted loop to pass over the hook, the knitted loop having to
be strained twice over this cup firstly; when the latch is open. Secondly;
when the latch is closed. To prevent the hook point from pricking the
operators fingers and the loop being strained twice over the cup, I reverse the
order of their positions. I may batter the point of the hook, instead of having
a cup thereon.
Another part of my invention is to give the hose an appearance of having a
top thereto when it really has not, by making a dividing line in the form of a small
welt of any given number of courses, to keep the leg apparently wider than the top,
such welt being knitted in the ordinary manner.
And further I attain a more natural shape to the hose by trimming them on any
ordinary leg board used for the purpose, inside out and returning the hose right-
side out when removing it from the board.
The next part of my invention is to provide means whereby the hose may be
mended by the identical yarn of which the hose is made, whether the colour of the
hose is faded, or not, within the welt or welts of the hose I run two or three or more
strands of the yarn, which is done while in the act of knitting the hose, and these
strands can be withdrawn at leisure. I also reduce the width of a rib one or two
needles by causing the said needles to miss the knitting thread, by employing needles
having a shorter latch than the others. When I require them to miss the thread I
lift the up throw cam above its normal height, or advance the thread guide beyond
its normal position, the said short latches get above the thread line and close on to
their hooks without receiving the loop, by these means I can make a 2 and 1 rib
top, while the needles are actually arranged for 4 and 1 rib, when the top is
knitted, the short latched needles are brought again into action, turning the said 2
and rib into a 4 and 1, and 1 and 1 rib may be turned into a 2 and 1, and so on.
The concluding part of my invention consists of an improved hose made in the
following manner, otherwise than variable sectionally knitted hose as before
mentioned. I make the leg in the ordinary manner with or without the dividing
welt above mentioned until a point representing the bottom of the heel is reached,
at this juncture I press off about one third of the loops in the whole of the circle,
these pressed off are afterwards joined together by mending or seaming stitch, and
thus forins the heel, the remaining two thirds of needles and loops are then spread
out to make the broken circle complete, knitting is again resumed in a circular

page_text: direction and a toe is formed by tubular narrowings or intakes and the said toe
is joined at the end by seaming or mending stitch, the gusset for the instep is
formed by intakes.
At the ankle I may incorporate part or all of the loops which are subsequently
cast off for the purpose of enlarging the heel and when the loops have been cast off
to form the heel instead of spreading the remaining two thirds of needles over the
circle commence to reciprocate the machine and make the foot in the form of.
flat fabric and join the foot with a mending or seaming stitch.
These hose may be made in "plain single" fabric,
combinations thereof.
Dated this 12th day of November 1892.
"back and front fabric," or
WILLIAM BESTWICK MAXFIELD,
Applicant's Agent.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in or appertaining to the Manufacture of Hosiery and
in Contrivances therefor.
I, GEORGE FREDERICK STURGESS, of Park Road New Evington Leicester in
the County of Leicester Hosiers Engineer do hereby declare the nature of this
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
"
This invention refers to improvements in or appertaining to the manufacture of
hosiery and in contrivances therefor, and relates chiefly to hose and the like
manufactured upon circular, or circular reversible knitting machines, and certain
improvements in needles used therein. In order that my invention may be clearly
understood reference is hereinafter made to the sheet of drawings annexed, and to
the ordinary way of manufacturing seamless hose. The first part of my invention
Figure 1 consists of seamless hose A of the various kinds having variable
sectionally knitted heels, toes, knees, or instep circularly knitted with two sets of
loops, made up of "back and front" fabric. These heels, toes, knees or insteps
are similar to the leg inasmuch that they are composed of "back and front" fabric,
but they may be similar or disimilar in pattern, for instance, the leg may be made
up of normal "one and one rib pattern, while the knee portion, heel, toe, or instep
may be all or part knitted, in two plain fabrics back to back, in tucked ribbed
fabric, "mis-stitch" rib fabric, or fabric having "plain" front, and "rib" back,
or with a floating or weft thread intermeshed or knitted as in sanwitched fabrics.
It will therefore be seen that many variations of the pattern, design or style of the
article can be made with "back and front fabric," knees, heels, toes and insteps by
slightly modifying the manipulations of the two sets of needles employed, whether
by hand or mechanical appliances. These heels, toes, knees or insteps conform
better to the human shape, are more yielding, give a more elastic tread, allow a
better ventilation and circulation, do not become matted and pulpy with perspiration,
give a more comfortable fit, the heel does not get under the foot, the feet do not
become "baggy" and are altogether superior to the present made, knees, heels,
toes and insteps; besides being more economically manufactured, the time of
transferring and re-transferring of loops being saved. The manner of fashioning
and producing the aforesaid variable sectionally knitted parts are as follows:-
When the circular leg bas been knitted, (instead of transferring the loops, discon-
necting the driving pin and letting the inner cams remain stationary and so
changing the knitting to one set of needles only), I allow the two sets of
needles to remain in action on half the circle of needles, and the driving pin to
remain in action with the inner cams, (whether the said inner cams reverse or
rotate simultaneously with the outer cams, or only have an intermittant forward
motion as hereinafter explained) the motion being virtually the same whether

page_text: done automatically or by hand, I then commence to reciprocate the thread across
the half circle of the two sets of needles, with the reciprocating knitting cams, or.
independent of the knitting cams when rotating and diminishing the section at
every reciprocation or rotation, by rendering the outermost needle of the two sets
inactive, and taking the diminishing needle from either set in their turn, according
to their arrangement and relative quantity until the apex a of the heel is reached.
When at every reciprocation of the thread, I re-install the innermost needle of the
two sets into active service in the same order until the heel is finished at a'. Thus the
heel being knitted while the cains are reciprocating in conjunction with the thread,
or rotating independent of the reciprocating thread, the said variable sectionally
knitted knees, heels or toes can be made in either case. In one case the heel has
alternating courses, knitted in the contrary direction, in the other case all the
courses and loops are knitted in one direction only, as in ordinary circular knitting.
The two sets of needles are then allowed to remain intact to the end of the foot,
while the instep is in consequence made up of "back and front" fabric. I form
what is known as a "fashioned gusset" a², Figure 1., at the commencement of the
instep by removing several needles on either side of the machine, and transferring
their loops on to the adjacent needles, these "intakes" making tubular narrowings
in the fabric by the removal of one or more complete ribs. When turning through
the foot, (if the instep be made of any other pattern than normal rib fabric) I
bring the tucking and mis-stitching apparatus forming the subject of my previous
Patent No. 13706 of 1890, into action, whereby the instep is made up of tucked
rib fabric, "mis-stitched" rib fabric, plain front and ribbed back, or two plain
fabrics back to back, according to the even or uneven quantities and arrangement
of the two sets of needles, as may be required. I also bring the said tucking and
mis-stitch apparatus into action to increase the number of tucked or mis-stitch loops
made in the heel, toe or knee. It will be understood that the knee and toe is
made exactly in the same way as the heel. The main object of the herein
described improved hosiery consisting of making seamless knees, heels and toes in
any of the known kinds of "back and front "fabric mentioned, it will only be
necessary to illustrate the article in one of the said varieties as shown in Figure 1.
which is normal 2 and 1 rib throughout.
my improvements
The front set, or
position, as usual.
The particular working positions of the two sets of needles in
for making, or the manipulation of my improved hose are these.
cylinder needles a have a working and idle, active or inactive
The back set or "dial needles" have also an idle or inactive position in the same
manner as the front set, so as to enable them to be rendered inactive or active
singly or collectively at will, whilst the cams on the motive parts of the machine
are in motion, by which means they can be employed seperately or in conjunction
with the front set of needles for making the said "variable" sectionally knitted
knees, heels and toes. The improved parts and their combinations refer chiefly to
the inner set of needles provided in the machine in order to carry out my invention
which is accomplished as follows:-Whether the cams operating the inner set of
needles employed are of the reversible type (now used in making flat rib fabrics),
or of the ordinary circular type, Fig. 2. I provide an idle or inactive
position B for the needles between the indraw cam or cams and the outer circle of
needles by cutting away part of the said indraw cain, at b', the inner set of needles
can then be drawn forward until their feet take the inactive position, the inner
loops are thereby suspended at will, either singly or collectively.
I strengthen the alternated portion of the said indraw cam or cams by increasing
the depth of metal at that part 6, and widening it out again above the level of
contact with the needle feet, the said indraw cam points & may be swivelled or
pivoted and held in position by the influence of springs in order to make them of a
yielding nature to prevent jamming when the said points are struck by the feet of
the needles. To further avoid such jamming I batter the ends of the needle feet
to a fine point c. see Figure 4. The action part of a needle as is well known is
that part which fulfils the knitting motions and extends from the book end to the

page_text: back of the foot c¹. Beyond the foot is the tail c², this tail is usually considerably
shorter than the action part of the needle and is provided for the purpose of riding
underneath the ordinary needle stand D of the cam plate, to prevent the needle
when at rest tipping out of its groove and becoming deranged and setting the
machine fast. The said needle stand (which covers the tails and holds the needle
in its working position as above described) is of such dimensions that the needle
when at rest remains entirely within the circle described by the outer set of needles.
It must be remembered that the idle path B is beyond the outer circumference of the
cams, and it will therefore be seen that to pull one of the said short tailed needles
forward until the foot reached the idle path B would withdraw the needle tail
from underneath the needle stand D entirely; it (the needle) would consequently
tip up out of its groove and so set the machine fast. To prevent this tipping of
the needle when drawn into the inactive position, I use several means, the first of
which comprises an annular ring, E, Figure 2, fixed concentric with and on the
outer side of the cylinder level with the inner circle of needles. When such
needles are drawn out to the inactive position they become supported, or are held
up in the proper position in their grooves by the said ring, E, which may be
segmental, and may be attached to, or form a part of the cylinder clasp ring, and
may be detachable in a body or in segments. Or I can make the needle with a
longer tail than usual, Figure 4, such tail part may be as long; or of greater
length than the action part e, of the needle, so that the tail will reach underneath
the stand B, when such needle is drawn out to the inactive position. In small
machines not admitting such a long tail I make such long tail collapsible, either
by a telescopic, swivelled, hinged or pivoted end not shown. Or I make the needle
stands F, F, Figure 2, of such dimensions that the needle when at rest extends
beyond the circle G described by the outer set of needles to the middle position g¹
(with the loops on the open latch) or to the clearing position g' (with the loops at
the back of the open latch) these enlarged needle stands also allow the needle
whether short tailed or otherwise to be drawn into the inactive position B
without tipping out of the groove. In the last case the enlarged needle stand F¹
would act as a clearing cam and facilitate reversible knitting without the employ-
ment of a clearing cam as heretofore. The said needle stands F, F1, are made
thin on their outer edges to enable the operator to withdraw the needle by its
foot c, and I cut away a section of the needle stand, or make a section thereof
displaceable in order that the needles can be removed. The needle stands may
be in one piece, but in order to make them adjustable to any diameter I make
them collapsible in the form of slides or pivoted sections. I can thereby expand
or contract them into the first position D (with the needles entirely within the
circle described by the outer set of needles), or into the second position F (with
the needles extended beyond the outer circle of needles and loops on the open
latch), or into the third position F', (with the loops behind the open latch), or
in any intermediate position. I might expand it further than this for the purpose
of pushing a section of the needles into the
idle "
path B when commencing
sectional knitting. Any of the aforesaid means may be used seperately or in com-
bination for the purpose described. And be it understood that with these devices,
combinations and arrangement of two sets of needles I can make two distinct
and seperate hose or the like of plain single fabric on one complete machine. To
accomplish which I employ an auxilliary yarn guide and latch opener, with one
thread to feed the inner circle of needles, and the other to feed the outer circle of
needles, the inner set knitting one complete hose, and the outer set knitting another
complete hose simultaneously, the said pair of hose coming from the machine one
within the other, or tubular knitted fabric, or sectionally knitted fabric coming from
the machine one piece within the other. I wish it to be understood that though the
inner set of cams are compelled to knit occasionally when making the knees, heels
and toes, it is not imperative that they should reciprocate or rotate in keeping with
the outer set of cams unless the pattern is "normal rib" fabric when they form a
Cloop at every reciprocation or rotation, and with the formation of the outer set of

page_text: loops. And though in the making of other patterns of fabric for heels and toes
the inner set of cams may be "idly" reversed or rotated, they are not required to
knit locps in the backward, or alternate motions as the needles have to accumulate
tuck loops, or make "mis-stitch "loops, such tuck or "mis-stitch" loops can be formed
equally as well by allowing the inner cams to remain stationary in the backward
or alternate motions according to the position of the needles when at rest. These
are taken up again and perform their part of knitting at the succeeding forward or
rotative motion, or at intermittent forward or rotative motions of the front set of
cams according to the number of tuck loops to be accumulated or "mis-stitches"
to be missed. This explanation shows that there are divers ways of employing the
inner cams to do the same thing. I therefore of necessity have different devices
and means of controlling the said cams as hereafter described. When the inner
cams have to circumferentially make time, or lose time in relation to the outer set
of cams in the performance of the reciprocating motion, I employ a loose cam
driving segment on the inner set of cams, which is either sliding or pivotal for the
purpose: When in the performance of the reciprocating movement the inner set
of needles are thrown out in the rear of the latch opener, I provide an additional
latch opener to prevent the latches closing, and when feeding a splicing or
re-inforcing thread to the said inner needles, I make the latch opener with an
additional thread guide. When the inner cams are not required to reciprocate I
make the driving pin H, self acting and arrange it with the driving plate I, so
that the pin will carry the cams round when going in the forward direction but
will leave them stationary when going in the backward direction, which 1 accom-
plish by a small balance catch on the driving plate I, or by having an inclined
surface, on the driving plate, in the forward motion the pin will impinge against
the balance catch or vertical side of the incline surface, in the backward motion
the pin will ride up the incline, or overbalance the catch whichever is used, and
pass over the driving plate I, without giving motion to the cams, which are allowed
then to remain stationary until the next forward motion. I may hinge the heel
pin itself, (and to facilitate it riding up the incline) I round or point the lower end
thereof, Figure 6. I may also employ two different lengths of driving pin H, the
longer one to be employed to enter the hole, and the shorter one to act upon the
incline ; of the driving plate I only in circular or reciprocating knitting respec-
tively. The driving pin H is shortened by making its head movable Figure 6,
when such head is upright the pin falls to its lowest depth, and when the head is
thrown off its equilibrium "see dotted lines Figure 6" the pin is raised.
When the inner set of cams are required to make a forward motion intermittently,
a shorter stroke has to be made to prevent the driving pin from reaching the driving
plate.
Another part of my invention has for its object the prevention of the needle
latches closing, and throwing stitches off, also to dispense with the latch opener.
It consists in providing a needle J with a tail piece 3", attached rigidly or loosely
to the latch, "see Figures 7, 8, 9, 10 and 11. When the knitted loop is beyond
the open latch, the said loop rests on the tail piece ¹, (which may be a thread
of silk, or the like, or formed out of steel wire, or stamped out of sheet steel) and
thereby controls the action of the latch, the eye in which the latch is pivoted
is extended lower down the stem, and the tail of the latch rests partly therein,
the tail piece 7, is attached to the latch on its under side, either near the pivot
with a slot between to allow the loop to slide up the latch, or at the cup end,
and without the slot; in this case the loop is lifted or levered over by the latch
and does not slide up the latch as heretofore. To prevent the loop getting under-
neath the tail of the latch I make the swell K in the stem. The hook point of a
needle often pricks the fingers of the operator, the cup of the latch is a hollow
protuberance which closes on to the hook point and allows the knitted loop to pass
over the hook, the knitted loop having to be strained twice over this cup firstly;
when the latch is open. Secondly; when the latch is closed. To prevent the
hook point from pricking the operators fingers and the loop from being strained
B

page_text: twice over the cup, I reverse the order of their positions, L. I may batter the
point of the hook, instead of having a cup L, thereon.
<<
Another part of my invention consists of giving the hose the appearance of
having a top thereto when it really has not, by making a dividing line.M, Figure 1,'
in the form of a small welt of any given number of courses to keep the leg
apparently wider than the top, such welt being knitted in the ordinary manner.
And further I attain a more natural shape to the hose by trimming them (on any
ordinary leg board used for the purpose) inside out and returning the hose right
side out when removing it from the board.
The next part of my invention is to provide means whereby the hose may be
mended by the identical yarn or yarns of which the hose is made, whether the
color of the hose has faded, or not; within the welt or welts at the top of the hose
I run two or three, or more strands of the yarn, which is done while in the act of
knitting the bose, so that these strands can be withdrawn at leisure.
I also reduce the width of a rib one or two needles by causing those needles to
miss the knitting thread by employing alternate needles in the cylinder having a
shorter latch than the others. When I require the short latches to miss the thread
I lift the ordinary upthrow cam above its normal height or advance the ordinary
thread guide beyond its normal position, the said short latches get above the thread
line and close on to their hooks without receiving the loop, by these means I can
make a 2 and 1 rib top, while the needles are actually arranged for a 4 and 1 rib,
when the top is knitted, the short latched needles are brought again into 'action,
turning the said 2 and 1 rib into a 4 and 1, and 1 and 1 rib may be turned into
a 2 and I and so on. The concluding part of my invention consists of an improved
hose made in the following manner, otherwise than variably sectionally knitted
hose as before mentioned. I make the leg in the ordinary manner with or without
the dividing welt M before mentioned until a point representing the bottom of the
heel is reached, at this juncture I press off about one third of the loops in the
whole of the circle, these pressed off are afterwards joined together by mending or
seaming stitches, and thus forms the heel, the remaining two thirds of needles and
loops are then spread out to make the broken circle complete, knitting is again
resumed in a circular direction and a toe is formed by tubular narrowings or intakes,
as at a Figure 1. At the ankle I may incorporate part or all of the loops which
are subsequently cast off for the purpose of enlarging the heel, and when the loops
have been cast off to form the heel, instead of spreading the remaining two thirds
of needles over the circle, I commence to reciprocate the machine and make the
foot in the form of flat fabric and join the foot with a mending or seaming stitch.
These hose can be made in "plain single” fabric "back and front fabric "
combinations thereof.
or
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of this inven
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare what I
claim is :-
1. Hose or other artical of foot wearing apparell having variable sectionally
knitted seamless knees, heels or toes composed of any kind or pattern of "back and
front looped fabric knitted by a combination of two sets of needles (known as
rib and plain needles) arranged and operated so as to draw their loops in opposite
directions, whether the said back and front loops are uniformly incorporated in the
form of ribbed fabric, namely a fabric having plain and ribbed loops alternating
on the face, or irregularly incorporated in the form of combination fabric, namely
a fabric having a plain front with a rib back, or two plain fabrics "back to back"
or any variety of the same, the instep being fashioned by "rib intakes
or tubular
narrowings separately or combined, substantially as described.
"
2. In a reversible or non-reversible circular knitting machine an "idle" or
inactive pathway for the ribbers, or any set of needles provided for the purpose of
rendering them inactive, at will, collectively or singly whilst the cams are in actual
knitting independent of or in conjunction with the plain, or cylinder needles for the

page_text: manufacture and production of two hose at the same time, or making of "back and
front" fabric, heels, knees and toes, and the parts, and combinations of parts
(cams), needles, needle stands, segments, driving pins, annular needle supporting
rings, and tucking appliances substantially as described.
3. In knitted articles of hosiery the employment of a dividing line or division
between the top and leg, to give the appearance of a "top" by the forming of a
welt, also the insertion of strands of mending thread in the welts of hosiery to
facilitate mending with the original colour or shade, substantially as described.
4. Making the legs and tops of seamless hose of different patterns of ribbed
fabric by casting off certain loops, and suspending the knitting on certain needles
in the top, and again resuming knitting on the full completion of needles in the
leg, substantially as described.
5. Hose or other articles of foot wearing apparell having a heel formed by
casting off a portion of the loops from the machine at a point representing the
bottom of the heel, the said loops being afterwards joined by a mending or seaming
stitch, a circular or seamed foot and a sectionally or tubularly fashioned toe,
substantially as described.
6. The process, method or means herein described for making the various parts
of, and the several articles of knitted foot wearing apparrel.
7. Trimming hose and the like, by turning them inside out, and enhancing their
appearance in the manner herein before described.
8. In the process of knitting the employment of switch latched needles, the
latch thereof having a tail firmly attached or loosely pivoted thereto or formed
thereon to enable the yarn loops to have full control over each needle latch; such
tails being formed out of steel wire, or stamped out of sheet steel, or of a strand
or thread of silk or the like threaded through the eye of the latch or otherwise
attached. The needle stems having a swell K, to regulate the upthrow of the
needles, to prevent the loops getting underneath the tails of the latches, a cup
formed at the end of the hook; iu combination or separately for the purpose
substantially as herein described and set forth.
Dated this 14th day of August 1893.
WILLIAM BESTWICK MAXFIELD,
Registered Patent Agent,
19, Bowling Green Street, Leicester, Applicant's Agent.