IMPROVEMENTS IN APPARATUS FOR MEASURING AND SETTING
Year: 1856

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Basilio Scariano and Raphaël Paul de Villamil,
both of No. 10, Rue Lepelletier, in the City of Paris, Gentlemen, for
the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN APPARATUS FOR MEASURING AND SETTING
Sealed the 16th December 1856, and dated the 26th June 1856.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Basilio Scariano and
Raphaël Paul de Villamil at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents,
with their Petition, on the 26th June 1856.
We, BASILIO SCARIANO and RAPHAEL PAUL DE VILLAMIL, both of No. 10,
Rue Lepelletier, in the City of Paris, Gentlemen, do hereby declare the
nature of the Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN APPARATUS FOR MEASURING AND
SETTING OUT THE FORMS OF GARMENTS," to be as follows:-
This Invention has for its object improvements in apparatus for measuring
and setting out the forms of garments, and consists in taking the measures by
means of several graduated scales combined or joined together and arranged
triangularly, so that the point of one triangle touches the triangle next to it,
the side of one triangle being common to the other. Thus, all these triangles
being joined together, the measure is obtained with a precision never before
attained by any former process. The enlarging or decreasing of one of these
triangles necessitates a change in all the others, which results in their com-
pensating among themselves and presenting an exact measure of the different
pieces, and their relation one to the other..

page_text: be drawn to obtain the length of the arm. From the point n the line n, z,
is drawn, and the measure of the wrist and the elbow is then taken (see
Figure 2).
All these measurements are indispensable for military uniforms, but for a
citizen's coat some of them may be omitted, for the sake of simplicity (see
Figure 3). All these lines or measurements taken on the body constitute a
system of curvilinear triangles, so connected together that they gave the exact
measurement of the body.
These same measurements taken separately, one by one, in a certain order,
are read off on to the machine, which represents, as before mentioned, a
net-work of lines, such as have been drawn on the body; so the curvilinear
triangles described on the body being stretched out on the same plane, change
into rectilinear triangles.
The apparatus being set and applied on the stuff, the workman may proceed
with security to the cutting out of the coat, which will have no need to be
retouched, and which, in addition to excessive precision, produces a great
economy in time and stuff.
An almost equal number of triangles being set on the machine, fix, as one
may imagine, the exact measure and the precise cut of a waistcoat. Figures 4
and 5 shew a more simple disposition, proper to the exclusive cutting out of
waistcoats. With a slight variation, the apparatus may be used for the
cutting out women's clothes.
For pantaloons, the workman will proceed according to the same principles.
The measures are to be taken by means of several ribbons attached together,
which adjust themselves to all sizes and lengths, and are applied to the person
to obtain the fixed triangular points shown in the Drawing. Then, having
taken their measurements, the numbers given are read off on to the apparatus,
the apparatus adjusting itself to give the exact shape of the pantaloons for the
person whose measurement has been taken.
Figures 7 and 8 represent the machine more particularly employed for
pantaloons. It is composed of a number of brass rules or scales, moveable in
several places, which are fixed by set screws. The apparatus forms a system
of rectilinear triangles, some of which have at their ends bands of steel, which
take different forms, according to the shapes in which the fabric should be cut
for making pantaloons. The triangles formed by the brass rules can be
enlarged or decreased as required, representing exactly the triangles which
have been traced on the body by the different measurements.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Basilio Scariano and Raphael Paul de Villamil in the Great
Seal Patent Office on the 23rd December 1856.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, BASILIO
SCARIANO and RAPHAEL PAUL DE VILLAMIL, both of No. 10, Rue Lepellitier,
in the City of Paris, Gentlemen, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-sixth day of June, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-six, in the twentieth year of Her reign,
did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto us, the said
Basilio Scariano and Raphael Paul de Villamil, Her special licence, that we,
the said Basilio Scariano and Raphael Paul de Villamil, our executors,
administrators, and assigns, or such others as we, the said Basilio Scariano
and Raphael Paul de Villamil, our executors, administrators, and assigns,
should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all
times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully
might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for
"IMPROVEMENTS IN APPARATUS FOR MEASURING AND SETTING OUT THE FORMS OF
GARMENTS," upon the condition (amongst others) that we, the said Basilio
Scariano and Raphael Paul de Villamil, our executors or administrators, by
an instrument in writing under our or their hands and seals, or under the
hand and seal of one of us or them, should particularly describe and ascertain
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be
performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office
within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said
Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Basilio Scariano, on behalf of myself
and Raphael Paul de Villamil, do hereby declare the nature of the said
Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement thereof, that is
to say:-
This Invention consists in an arrangement of machinery for setting out the
patterns of garments. The machinery is composed of several sliding metal
rules, by preference of brass, pin-jointed together so as to form a series of
moveable triangles placed in juxta-position to each other. These rules are
graduated, and are arranged so as to correspond with the points and lines,
according to which the measurements are taken from the body of the person

page_text: of the rules. In this manner a reproduction on a plane surface of the measure-
ments in relief are obtained.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.
Figures 1 and 2 are the two parts, which together form the machine for set-
ting out the outline of the pattern of a coat; Figure 2 shews the outline (set
out by the machine) for the pattern of a uniform; Figure 3 shews the outline of
an ordinary coat, shewing the points and lines according to which the measure-
ments are taken by the machine. In each of the Figures the same points are
marked with the same letters of reference. Figures 5 and 6 shew a more
simple machine for taking the pattern of a waistcoat, and a pattern showing
the lines taken by the machine; Figures 7 and 8 shew a machine for taking
the pattern of a pair of trowsers, and a pattern showing the lines taken by the
machine.
We will now describe the machine shewn at Figures 1 and 1b, in which the
different pieces composing the machine are indicated by figures in red ink,
the points from which the measurements are taken being marked by the letters
in black. On the axis a' of a set screw, which passes through the fixed plate 1,
are hinged the two ends of the graduated rules 2, 3. The rule 2 is formed
with an enlargement, to which is hinged the leg 4, which is capable of being
lengthened. In the slot in the rule 2 the set screw d slides, on the axis of
which the ends of the graduated rules 5, 6, 8, 9, and the leg 7 turn. The
rules 5, 6, are jointed together by the graduated rule 10, by reason of the set
screw 6' joining together the rules 5 and 10, and the set screw o at the end
The rule 10 is also joined
of the rule 10, sliding in the groove in the rule 6.
by a set screw to the branch 4. In the slot in the rule 3 the set screws, which
join it with the slotted guides 11, 12, slide. The set screw m, on which the
graduated scale 13 turns, and the set screw to which the curved plate d is
fixed, are both jointed together by a slide, which slides in the groove in the
rule 3. Another set screw unites the graduated rule 14 to the curved plate d;
this set screw also slides in the groove in the rule 8; and, lastly, a set screw o'
unites the rule 14 with the leg 7. A graduated spring 15 is fixed to the set
screw b', and by a set screw to the plate 1. Another graduated spring 16,
fixed to the set screw a³, is also fixed by a set screw to the plate 1, forming a
curve, which is kept in position by the end of the guide 11. A third graduated
spring 17 is jointed to the set screw a³, and to the set screw m; and, lastly, a

page_text: fourth graduated spring 18 is fixed to the set screws o, o¹, and to the set screw a,
its curve being regulated by the end n of the rule 13.
The machine shewn at Figure 1b is composed of a sliding leg 19, at the end
of which there is a graduated slotted arm 20, in which the set screw d slides;
the stud d also passes through the slot in the graduated rule 22. A graduated
trapezium 23, carries the centre o, on which the rule 22 and the graduated
rule 24 turns; the graduated rule 24 being connected to the set screw e moves
up and down in the groove in the leg 19. Another graduated rule 25 is joined
to the leg 19 by a set screw d', which slides in the slot in the leg 19. When
the pieces are placed according to the measurements taken, they are fixed by
screwing up the set screws, and all the lines (as shewn at Figure 3) can then
be traced. The measurements are taken in the following manner (see
Figure 4) A ribbon, on which the following points are to be marked, is
first passed round the waist; the point a¹ at the navel, the point at the
spinal column, and the point d' at the bottom of the back. From the point d
at the bottom of the neck, a ribbon is brought over the shoulders to the point a
at the front of the armpit, and then to the point o at the back of the shoulder,
and then around the base of the back of the neck to the point c at the top of
the spinal column, and then to the point 6', taking care to pass the ribbon over
the most prominent part of the shoulder. From the point o a ribbon is taken
to the point b', and then a perpendicular to the liné d, b, cutting that line at
the point e, and again from the point o the ribbon is taken to the point a,
passing over the articulation of the shoulder. From the point a, a perpen-
dicular is drawn to the line which passes from the sternon or breast bone to
the navel, by taking the ribbon to the point f in that line. For uniforms, the
band is taken from the point d to the point a² at the bottom of the neck, and
at the top of the central line in front, as seen at Figure 2; the ribbon is then
taken from the point a² to the point a. To mark the size of the shoulder, the
ribbon is taken from the point m to the point n. For the sleeve, the ribbon
is taken from the point o to the point z at the elbow, and then (the arm being
bent) from the point to the point y, and from the point z to the point n the
size of the elbow and the wrist is then taken. The distances between the
different points are then observed by means of the ribbons, and carefully noted
down. The rules and springs, representing the different positions successively
occupied by the ribbons, are then placed in their relative positions according
to the measurements taken.
i
It will not be necessary to describe the machine shewn at Figure 6, nor that
shewn at Figure 8, the system of rules and springs, being there much more
simple than that before described, will easily be understood, especially as in

page_text: Figures 5 and 6, the points which coincide approximately to those in the
preceding Figures are marked by the same letters of reference.
Having thus described the nature of our said Invention, and the manner of
performing the same, we would have it understood that we do not intend to
limit ourselves to the precise forms and arrangements of the machines above
described; but what we claim as our Invention is, a combination of graduated
rules, guides, and graduated springs, all moveable and capable of being adjusted
by means of set screws to coincide with the measurements taken by the ribbons,
these rules and springs forming a series of triangles, which give in plan the
exact outline of the patterns suitable for the different articles of clothing for
which the measures were taken.
In witness whereof, I, the said Basilio Scariano, hereunto set my hand
and seal, this Twenty-second day of December, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-six.
Witness,
T. BASSET,
2, Rue Drouot..
BASILIO SCARIANO. (L.S.)