Improvements in or relating to Sewing Machines.
Year: 1895

page_text: Date of Application, 2nd Dec., 1895-Accepted, 15th Feb., 1896
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in or relating to Sewing Machines.
WE GEORGE HARRY BIDDLES of No. 7 Holland Road, Engineer, ALFRED
ORME of No. 99 Berners Street, Boot Manufacturer's Manager and FREDERICK
WILLIAM BILLSON of No. 3 Belvoir Street, Solicitor, all in Leicester in the
County of Leicester do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement:-
This invention refers to improvements in or relating to sewing machines to
facilitate the operation of cutting and sewing the edges of leather, rubber, cloth
and the like at the same time, also to scollop and punch or perforate, or scollop
and sew or punch in the one operation or motion of the needle bar, such punching
or perforating holes may run in single or double rows, parallel or zig-zag, or form
regular or irregular patterns as may be desired. The various operations being
carried out by arranging the punches or cutters in holes made in the lower end of
the needle bar, protected by a collar.
That this invention may be well understood we have annexed a sheet of drawings
in which :-
Figure 1 is a side view of a needle bar A carrying the needle a, and scolloper B,
according to this invention.
Figure 2, shows the needle bar A arranged with needle a, and cranked punch C,
according to this invention.
Figure 3 shows the needle bar A, with needle a, and cutter B' in the process of
sewing and cutting the material D at the same time.
Figure 4 is a bottom view of the needle bar A showing the needle hole a¹,
thread hole a2 and punch or cutter hole a³ and collar a with means for securing
the tools in position.
Figure 5 is a front view of a cranked cutter B, and Figure 6 a section of the
cutting edge or scollop.
Figures 7, 8, and 9 represent front, side and sectional views of a dog tooth
cutter or knife B2 stamped out of the wire stem.
<
Figure 10 is a side view of a straight cutter B¹, seen in Figure 3."
Figure 11 is one form of cranked punch C, and Figure 12 a double punch C¹.
Figures 13 and 14 are end and side views respectively of another form of
punch C² the pins forming a semi-circle, or any other desired pattern for punching
or perforating patterns, or sewing and perforating at the same time.
Figure 15 shows a piece of fabric scolloped along the top edge and perforated
in a single and double line, and sewu and trimmed down one side and the lower
edge, the piece of material representing a leather top band or the like.
Figure 16 shows the feed plate E employed for cutting and sewing, or cutting
and punching one row of holes.
Figure 17, a feed plate E employed during the operation of punching two rows
or sewing and punching one row of holes, zig-zag, and the dotted lines show a hole
at the side of the needle hole when employed for scolloping the edge or edges of
the fabric or material,-other patterns of scolloping feed plates are used the hole
next to the needle hole corresponding to the shape of the cutter or scolloping tool,
and Figure 18 shows a feed plate for use in punching two parallel rows of holes, or
sewing and punching one row of boles.

page_text: Upon reference to Figures 1, 2 and 3 of the drawings it will be observed that a
groove a is cut in the needle bar immediately over the thread hole a and
collar a for feeding the thread and obviating the use of an holder as is now the
case, and consequently feeding the thread much nearer the needle. The thread
hole a, needle hole a', and punch or scolloping tool holder a³ may be of any
desired size and distance from each other according to the work it is desired to
produce.
It will also be observed that one side of the collar at is level with that side of
the needle bar, in order that the said needle bar shall miss the guide wheel of the
machine.
In carrying out our invention we substitute in any ordinary sewing machine the
needle bar as shown in the drawings for the one already in use, the stem of which
may be of any desired length and thickness, the holes a', a² and a³ and the
groove a are made therein, and the collar a', secured in the manner shown in
Figure 4.
Screw holes are then made to receive the screws for securing the needle, and
straight or cranked punches or scolloping tools or cutting knives, as the case
may be.
Thus by the vertical movement of the needle bar in the lower end of which is
fitted the punching, scolloping or cutting tools, the scolloping and punching, or
scolloping and sewing, or punching and sewing, or sewing and cutting or
trimming, is carried out at one and the same time, thereby accomplishing the said
operations in inuch less time than doing them singly, and also quickening the output
of the machine.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of this inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we
claim is :-
1. In a needle bar of a sewing machine the recessing of the lower end thereof
to receive the stem of a straight cranked or tapered punch or punches, scolloping
knives and cutters of the character substantially as described.
2. A needle bar of a sewing machine having holes in the reduced bottom
thereof to receive punches, scolloping knives and cutters in combination with an
ordinary sewing needle and corresponding feed plates such as E, for the purposes
substantially as described.
3. A needle bar provided with a groove above the collar leading to the thread
hole to obviate the use of a thread holder and feeding the thread nearer to the
needle.
4. In a sewing machine the employment of a needle bar carrying a punch or
punches, scolloping or cutting knives thereby accomplishing, in combination with a
sewing needle the process of sewing and cutting, sewing and punching, scolloping,
sewing, and punching one or more rows of holes, in each case at the same time
by the means and in the manner substantially as set forth.
Dated this 28th day of November 1895.
W. BESTWICK MAXFIELD,
19 Bowling Green Street, Leicester, Registered Patent Agent.