Year: 1898

page_text: I, MATTHEW BATES KENDRICK, of the City of Newport, in the County of Campbell
and State of Kentucky, U.S.A., Merchant, do hereby declare the nature of this
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
My invention relates to that class of collars which are used about the neck by
men and women and adapted to be buttoned to a garment and with which a
necktie is used; and it consists in a standing collar of new and novel form of
construction, providing means whereby the band of the tie around the collar is
retained in its proper position and prevented from accidentally slipping either
around the collar or toward the top thereof, as will be more fully described here-
inafter and claimed.
My object is to provide a standing collar which, while being adapted to retain
the necktie, may be made of the usual amount of linen or other material necessary
to afford proper stiffness without adding to its expense for additional material
due to the tie-holding features and which shall be neat and attractive in
appearance as well as durable and economical in use.
A further object is to provide extra stiffness throughout the lower portions of
the collar, and especially about the ends of the collar-band, where the front
buttonholes are situated.
These objects are fully attained in my invention.
Referring to the drawings, Figure 1 represents a perspective view of a collar
made in accordance with my invention and having a string-tie connected thereto;
Fig. 2, an elevation of a portion of the collar; Fig. 3, a transverse vertical sectional
view on the line XX of Fig. 2; and Fig. 4, a transverse vertical sectional view
on the line Y Y of Fig. 2, but on an exaggerated scale, to show the formation of
the tie-holding device and approximately as it would appear before being pressed
down.
In the several figures like letters designate corresponding parts.
The collar A may be composed of any suitable material, as linen, and is made
in the usual manner and of four-ply or other desired thickness, the characteristic
features of my invention being that the lower portion of the collar is divided into
substantially two separate portions F and G, between which the band of the tie B

page_text: is inserted, and which when bent around the neck, acting as a clamp, effectually
prevents movement of the tie. The whole inner portion and the outer upper
portion are made substantially the same as other collars, so that the outside a
presents a neat appearance, while the inner part is continuous from end to end,
the top and bottom having turned-in edges it and stitching hh. The outside
portion and inside portion G. are lined by a continuous piece doubled over to
form the back of the front and the front m of the back portion G. At the
top of the opening E the front m is stitched to the inside 6, (indicated at v,)
being at a suitable distance above the bottom f of the collar to admit the breadth
of a tie-band of any style desired.
At the center of the length of the collar the outside portion F is preferably cut
away sufficiently on a semicircular line C to expose the face i of the inside portion G
and buttonhole and is finished by the stitching u, continuing from the line h¹.
The inside portion G is suitably sewed together at the bottom, and the piece cut
away at C may be suitably stitched to the inside G, forming a reinforced part,
through which the buttonhole d is cut and worked in the usual manner.
At a short distance back from each end buttonhole ee the outside portion F
has a slit D, through which the tie emerges, and stitching k binds all the layers
of the fabric together, providing a stiff front end, while the stitching t binds
together only the layers forming the outside portion F. The slits D extend from
the bottom to the top of the opening E.
It will be observed that while the outside portion F constitutes a tie-holding
flap extending nearly the whole length of the collar the construction is such
that when pressed for use any unevenness due to the division attaches to the inner
portion, the outer face a being smooth and neat in appearance and appearing like
an ordinary collar, except where cut away at the center and at the slits, which,
however, are usually hidden by an outer garment.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I consider novel and desire to claim is:
The herein-described collar consisting of the inner and outer portions, and the
intermediate lining portion folded longitudinally and stitched at one bottom edge
to the inner portion and at the other bottom edge to the outer portion, said
outer portion and its lining having a slit near each end thereof and being stitched
to said inner portion between said slit und the adjacent end thereof and having the
cut-away portion, at the back or longitudinal center, said part which is cut out
being stitched to said inner portion and its lining as a reinforcement, said
inner portion and its lining being stitched together at the fold of said lining,
substantially as shown and described.
Dated this 8th day of Decembar 1898
H. D. FITZPATRICK,
100, Wellington Street, Glasgow, Agent.