IMPROVEMENTS TREATMENT OR MANUFACTURE OF ORNAMENTAL FABRICS
Year: 1853

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to John Hood, of Glasgow, in the County of
Lanark, North Britain, and William Hood, of the same place,
Manufacturers, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS
TREATMENT OR MANUFACTURE OF ORNAMENTAL FABRICS."
Sealed the 2nd January 1854, and dated the 6th July 1858.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said John Hood and
William Hood at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents,
with their Petition, on the 6th July 1853.
We, JOHN HOOD, of Glasgow, in the County of Lanark, North
Britain, and WILLIAM HOOD, of the same place, Manufacturers, do
hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN.
THE TREATMENT OR MANUFACTURE OF ORNAMENTAL FABRICS" to be as
follows:-
This Invention relates to that part of the manufacture of fabrics of
the lappet class wherein the loose surface threads forming the device
are cut from the piece to bring it to the finished state. Any orna-
mental fabrics may be treated by this process; provided the device, being

page_text: of the lappet, leaf, or harness class, is made up of spots or regularly
disposed isolated portions of interwoven weft. To accomplish this
cutting process a duplex cutting scissors is used. Such scissors are
composed of a central stationary blade, with a cutting edge on each
side, and two other side blades, each working in concert with the two
central edges. This contrivance is set in a frame, and is traversed
over the pattern side of the fabric, and directed so as to cut each end
of the loose surface or waste threads, leaving the spots or devices
standing in their finished. condition. Instead of three blades in the
scissors, the same effect may be produced with two blades cutting ver-
tically, each bade having two cutting edges, so as to sever each side at
the same time.
Such system of treatment or manufacture does away entirely with
the necessity for hand-cutting with scissors, and effects great economy
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
liled by the said Jolin Hood and William Hood in the Great Seal
Patent Office, on the 6th January 1854.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, wc,
JOHN HOOD, of Glasgow, in the County of Tanark, North Britain, and
WILLIAM HOOD, of the same place, Manufacturers, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Sixth day of July, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-three, in the seven-
teenth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors,
give and grant unto us, the said John Hood and William Hood, Her
special licence that we, the said John Hood and William Hood, our
executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as we, the said
John Hood and William Hond, our excentors, administrators, or
assignis, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to
time and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed,
should and lawfully might make, sc, exercise, and vend, within the
United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands,

page_text: and Isle of Man, an Inyention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE TREATMENT
OR MANUFACTURE OF ORNAMENTAL FABRICS," upon the condition (amongst
others) that we, the said John Hood and William Hood, by an instru-
ment in writing under our hands and seals, should particularly describe
and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner
the same. was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the
Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and immie-
liately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that we, the said John Hood and William Hood,
do hereby declare the nature of our said Invention, and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement, reference being had to the accom-
panying Drawings, and to the letters and figures marked thereon, that
is to say:
Onr said Invention relates to that part of the manufacture of fabrics
of the lappet class wherein the loose surface threads produced in form-
ing the device are cut from the piece to bring it to the finished state.
Any ornamental fabrics may be treated by this process, provided the
device, being of the lappet, leaf, or harness class, is made up of spots
or regularly disposed isolated portions of interwoven weft. To accom-
plish this process a duplex cutting scissors is used., Such scissors are
in each case composed of a central stationary blade, with a cutting edge.
on each side, and two other side blades, with a single cutting edge on
the inside of each blade to work in concert with the two edges of the
central blade. A number of such scissors are fixed in a frame in
positions corresponding to the pattern to be operated upon, and the
fabric is traversel beneath the series, and directed so that the scissors
shall cut each end of the loose surface or waste threads, leaving the
spots or devices standing in their finished condition. Instead of three
blades in the scissors, the same effect may be produced with two blades
cutting vertically, cach blade having two cutting edges, so as to sever
cach side at the same time. Such system of treatment or manufacture
loes away entirely with the necessity for hand-cutting with scissors, and
effects great economy in the production of the finished fabrics. And
in order that our said Invention may be properly understood, we shall

page_text: now proceed to describe one form of machine constructed to carry out
our Invention, as represented on the Sheet of Drawings hereunto
attached. Figure 1, on the Sheet of Drawings, is a longitudinal ele-
vation of the said machine. Figure 2, is an end elevation, looking.on
the driving end of the machine. Figure 3, is a vertical transverse
section; and Figure 4, is a plan of the machine. Figure 5, is a ver-
tical section; and Figure 6, is a plan of one of the scissors detached
and drawn to a larger scale. The framing of the machine consists of
the two end standards A, bolted down to the floor by foot flanges,
the longitudinal tie bars B, bolted to the standards A, by end flanges, the
tie rod C, and the top longitudinal tie bar D, which is bolted to the
standards A, by end flanges, and serves at the same time to carry
the scissors. The driving shaft of the machine is at.E. This shaft is
carried in bearings on cross bars in the end standards A, and has at
one end the fast and loose pulleys F, by which the.motive force is com-
municated to the machine from an overhead or other suitable revolving
shaft. Close to or attached to the fast pulley is a small fly or hand
wheel G, by means of which the machine may be moved by hand for
adjustment or for other purposes. During the cutting operation the
fabric is unwound from a small roller H, and wound upon a large
roller I, the two rollers being carried in bearings in each side of the
end standards A; but in putting the fabric into the machine it is first
beamed upon the large roller I, and then transferred to the small
roller H. This is to secure its being in a perfectly tight and stretched
condition, and for this purpose a convenient amount of tension is given
to the fabric, whilst passing from one roller to the other, by applying
a friction strap J, to the larger and for the time being the delivering
roller I. This friction strap J, is fixed to a stud pin K, in the framing
just below the roller I, and passes over the roller near the end to an
adjusting piece L, which is made to traverse back and forward by a
screw spindle M, so as to tighten or slacken it, and thereby regulate
the amount of friction and consequent tension on the fabric. The
fabric is wound upon the roller E, by applying a winch handle to the
projecting squared end N, of the roller spindle. A friction strap 0, is
likewise applied to the roller H, whilst the fabric is being unwound

page_text: from it during the cutting operation. This strap O, is fixed to a stud
pin P, below the roller, and passes round the latter to the adjusting
piece L, which is so arranged as to answer for the friction straps of
both rollers E, and I, these straps not being required to be tightened
at the same time. It is obvious that any other frictional apparatus
acting in a similar manner may be applied. The fabric is not secured
directly to either of the rollers; it is hooked by its extreme ends to por-
tions of Osnaburgh or other ordinary material fixed to the rollers, and
of such lengths as to allow of the entire fabric to be operated upon
coming within the sphere of action of the scissors without being
loosened off the rollers. The free end of the Osnaburg has a wire
sewn across it, carrying a row of hooks to which the fabric is secured,
and a leather cover piece prevents injury to the overlying folds of cloth.
This arrangement is represented at Q, in Figure 3. From the roller
HI, the fabric passes up over the breadthener and tension beam R.
This beam has angular grooves, diverging from the centre, cut upon its
surface, like the well-known ordinary breadthener. In addition to
this, it is set upou eccentric eud spindles carried in bearings in the
framing, one of which spindles projects ontside the framing, and carries
a small worm wheel S, actuated by a worm spindle and hand wheel T.
Thus by turning the hand wheel T, the beam R, may be turned on its
eccentric axis so as to bring a more or less prominent portion of its
surface against the fabric, so as to bring the latter nearer to or further
from the scissors under which the fabric passes in a horizontal direction
at U, immediately on leaving the beam R. The fabric passes onwards
over the guide roller V, and is finally wound up at I. The fabric is
drawn through the machine by the rotation of the last-mentioned
roller I. The shaft of this roller has keyed upon its overhanging end
the spur wheel W. This wheel is in gear with a pinion X, fixed to or
forming one piece with the spur wheel Y, which last is in gear with a
pinion Z, on the driving shaft E. The wheels X, Y, are carried loose
upon a stud spindle a, capable of adjustment in a segmental slot 6, in
order that the pinion X, may be changed for one of different diameter
when it is wished to alter the relative speed of the large roller I, such
change of pinion requiring an alteration of the distance between its

page_text: centre and that of the spur wheel W, whilst no difference is made in
reference to the pinion Z, as the slot b, is equally distant from it at
every point. The scissors are fixed to the top cross bar D, and are
pointed in the opposite direction to that of the advance of the fabric or
to the left in Figures 2, and 3, as at U. On the front vertical side of the
bar D, or the left-hand side in Figures 2, and 3, and the right-hand
side in Figures 5, and 6, cut out along its entire length a shallow
dovetailed groove into which are fitted dovetail carrier pieces c, which
are secured at the required positions by small screws d, the holding
force being obtained by the pressure of the screw against the bottom of
the groove. Each of these dovetail carrier pieces c, has a vertical
groove upon its face into which is fitted the inner end of the lower
blade e, of the scissors, turned up at right angles, and formed with a
slot for the passage of the screw f, by means of which it is fixed to the
carrier piece c, being at the same time accurately adjusted as to height.
The blade e, has riveted to its upper side the spindle y, which corre-
sponds to the joint screw of an ordinary pair of scissors. Upon this
spindle g, vibrates the tubular spindle h, attached to the upper duplex
or forked blade i. These two upper blades, which are made in one
piece, have their inner sides formed into cutting edges, and act in the
manner of ordinary scissors, cach. in combination with one of the edges
of the lower central blade e. Thus, as the fabric traverses beneath the
scissors, the point of the central and lower blade introduces itself
under the loose loops or threads to be cut away, and the double cutting
action severs the threads on both sides at one operation. The upper
blades i, are pressed down upon the lower blade e, by a helical spring j
acting between the top of the tubular spindle h, and a nut screwed
upon the central spindle g. of the lower blade, the screw admitting of a
nice adjustment of the pressure. The lower blade e, is stationary, the
upper one i, being the moving blade; for this purpose its spindle h, is
formed at the top with a lever k, the forked end of which embraces a
pin l. To this pin a rapid reciprocatory motion is given, which is com-
municated to the blades i, by the lever . The pin l. is fast upon an
adjusting piece m, fitted into a dovetail groove m', running the entire
length of a reciprocating bar n; a small thumb screw o, passes down

page_text: through the pin, and by its pressure upon the bottom of the groove m',
fixes the picce m, when it has been adjusted to correspond to the
position of the scissors. The reciprocating bar 2, works in guides in
the end standards A, and slides upon supports p, placed at intervals
along the frame bar D. The reciprocating motion of the bar n, is
derived from a small crank disc g, fast upon the upper end of a short
vertical shaft carried in a bracket bearing r, bolted to the framing.
The lower end of this shaft has fast upon it a small bevil pinion s,
driven by the bevil wheel t, on the main shaft E. The disc 4 has a
horizontal groove to admit of the adjustment of the crank pin u, so as
to give any length of stroke that may be required. The crank pin w,
carries a small bush, squared externally, and working in a cross slot or
frame v, upon the end of the reciprocating bar n. Thus the rotation
of the crank pin u, will give a reciprocatory motion to the bar n, the
pin traversing the cross slot v, from side to side as it revolves. A light
rectangular guide frame w, is bolted to the framing, and secures the
stendy working of the movement just described. We have already
described the means for adjusting the scissors individually to suit
various patterns and descriptions of fabric; but a means is required
of adjusting the whole series laterally, without altering the relative
positions of the individual scissors. This adjustment is obtained by
moving the fabric laterally, and in the following manner :-The spindles
, and y, of the roller II, and tension beam R, project outside the
framing at one end, and have collars fast upon them at z. Outside
these collars the two ends of the cross head or traversing piece 1, arc
passed upon the spindles a, and y. The ends of the traversing piece
are formed with turned eyes to admit of the spindles revolving within
them, and they are retained upon the spindles by loose collars passed
on and pinned to the spindles outside. The cross head or traversing
piece 1, is made with a tubular boss 2, sliding upon a tubular stud 3,
bolted to the framing. The tubular stud 3, contains a screw spindle
actuated by a hand wheel 4; and this screw spindle passes through
and works a nut which projects through a slot in the top of the tubular
stud 8, and is screwed to the boss 2, of the traversing piece 1. Thus
by turning the hand wheel 4, the screw spindle moves the traversing

page_text: picce 1, and with it the spindles a, and y, and the roller H, and beam
R, thus giving the required lateral adjustment to the fabric. The
worm wheel S, on the spindle of the beam R, is fitted to the latter
with a groove and feather to admit of the lateral motion of the latter,
the worm wheel being retained in position by an outside bracket 5,
bolted to the framing. A rotatory brush is provided at 6, below the
receiving roller I. The shaft of this brush is carried in bearings in
the end frames A, and it has fast upon it the pulley 7, which is driven
by a belt or cord passing round a pulley 8, fast on the driving shaft E.
A large box or casing 2, is formed within the framing of the machine
immediately below the roller I, in order to receive the cut-off portions
and loose threads or waste cleared from the fabric by the brush 6.
This waste is afterwards removed by a cover 10, at the side, hung
upon the tie rod C, as a hinge.
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of our
said Invention, and the manner in which the same is or may be used or
carried into effect, we may observe, in conclusion, that we do not confine
or restrict ourselves to the precise details or arrangements which we have
had occasion to describe or refer to, as many variations may be made
therefrom without deviating from the principles or main features of our
Invention; but what we consider to be novel and original, and there-
fore claim as the Invention secured to us by the herein-before in part
recited Letters Patent, is,-
:
First, the general arrangement and construction of machinery, appa-
ratus, or means for the treatment or finishing of ornamental fabrics, as
herein-before described.
Second, the system or mode of giving tensional stretch to the fabric
to be operated upon by means of primary reverse beaming or winding
on and frictional retarding apparatus.
Third, the application and use of the breadthener, herein-before
described, for stretching and levelling the fabric prior to approaching
the cutting apparatus.
Fourth, the system or mode of setting up the fabric to the line of
cutting action by means of eccentric adjusting apparatus, as herein-
before described.
•

page_text: Fifth, the application and use, in treating or cutting the threads from
ornamental fabrics, of scissors of duplex action, with a central blade,
either stationary or vibrating.
Sixth, the system or mode of cutting the loose threads from orna-
mental fabrics by means of a central vibrating double edged blade
working between two opposed cutting edges.
Seventh, the system or mode of actuating the combined series of
cutters or scissors in concert by means of a reciprocating bar, as herein-
before described.
Eighth, the system or mode of adjusting the entire series of scissors
or cutters without varying their intervals, as herein-before described.
In witness whereof, we, the said John Hood and William Hood,
have hercunto set our hands and seals, this Fourth day of
January, in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred
and fifty-four.
JOHN HOOD.
(L.S.)
WILLIAM HOOD. (L.S.)
JOHN HOOD.
(L.S.)
WILLIAM HOOD. (L.S.)