Improvement in Overcoats.
Year: 1893

page_text: Date of Application, 6th Mar., 1893
Complete Specification Left, 6th Dec., 1893-Accepted, 6th Mar., 1894
Improvement in Overcoats.
WILLIAM BARNES FENDICK 14 Cockspur Street Charing Cross Tailor do
hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
"Improvement in Overcoats" consists of a side piece under arm, extending the
whole length of coat, just below the natural waist an opening is made on the outer
side,-
-a plete inserted, so arranged that when the wearer sits down, the coat falls
over the knees, & when standing forms a close fitting skirt. This plete has no
opening at the back.
March 6th 1893.
WILLIAM BARNES FENDICK.
Improvement in Overcoats.
WILLIAM BARNES FENDICK 11-12 Charing Cross, S.W. (late 14 Cockspur
Street, S.W.) Tailor, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in
and by the following statement :-
My invention relates to the making of overcoats, and is of a device whereby
an ordinary. walking coat. of the type commonly termed an ulster, may have its
skirts expanded and opened out to the ample capacity required for driving and
coaching purposes and vice versa.
In order, to more intelligently make known the manner by which these results
are attained, and so that any ordinary skillful tailor may construct such an over-
coat, I have prepared the accompanying diagram, in which are shown those parts
called forepart & sidepiece" adjusted one to the other in the novel manner to
which the invention relates.
Between forepart and sidepiece, sufficient material is left to form into a pleat,
which when in a standing position, will remain closed on the inside of coat, but
when sitting may be opened so as to fall over the front of the legs. For a
travelling ulster, or riding coat, more material should be allowed in these pleats
than for a mere walking coat, which latter would not require more than 10 inches
to each pleat at the utmost. To form pleats from below waist to A, the pleat is
left on to B. The same from D to E. From R to U is the creasing line of pleat.
The same size piece should be cut upon the sidebody from F to L and H to N,
also from V to T, being the creasing line of pleat. B. L. & E N. are then sewn
strongly together after which the pleat is to be creased. Commence by creasing
from R to U and then V to T. After creasing, close the pleats by drawing A & F
and D & H together by folding to the centre till edges meet, when crease firmly in
place. Observe that this creasing should be performed with a very heavy irou,
so that the pleat will fall naturally thereafter into position. Also, note that the
top parts of pleats should be firmly fastened so as to keep the balance perfect, as
if this is not preserved the pleats will sag open at bottom.
The perfect pleat having been formed, a spring hook & eye should be inserted
for fastening the edges (at P. & O about 10 inches from top of pleat) together in
boisterous weather. These fastenings must be stayed with very strong linen stays,
so as to prevent them from pulling out and tearing the cloth. Too much attention
Price B1

page_text: cannot be paid to the fastenings and stays involved, as the beauty of the entire
coat depends upon the perfect balance which they serve to maintain."
Let it be remarked that when pleat is being formed the material left upon
forepart, and that,of, sidebody, are joined exactly in the centre into one pleat, and
that the more neat the join the better will be the result accomplished by the
creasing.
Having now particularly. described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
'claim is:
•
(1.) A pleat on each side of a long close fitting overcoat, extending from the hip
to full length of coat..
These pleats are invisible, when wearer is standing in an erect position, but on
sitting or walking they expand.
Dated this 6th day of March 1894.
WILLIAM BARNES FENDICK.