Improvements relating to the Manufacture of Woven Fabrics and to Looms therefor.
Year: 1889

page_text: Date of Application, 1st Feb., 1889
Complete Soecification Left, 29th Oct., 1889-Accepted, 30th Nov., 1889
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements relating to the Manufacture of Woven Fabrics and to
Looms therefor.
I, HYACINTHE MARIE FOUILLET-CHEVANCE, of 23 Boulevard de Strasbourg, Paris,
in the Republic of France Gentleman do hereby declare the nature of this invention
to be as follows:-
This invention relates to a method of manufacturing woven fabrics and to apparatus
employed for carrying the same into effect.
Textile fabrics have heretofore been made either by plaiting or braiding or by
knitting or else by weaving. The said invention relates to the latter class of textile
fabric. In order to weave fabric, such as cloth, ribbon, calico, satin, velvet, linen, or
the like, bar looms or Jacquard looms are used.
Whatever may be the name, the form, and the mechanism of the apparatus
employed, and whatever may be the textile material and the design, the fabric made
upon a loom is produced by two series of threads which invariably cross each other at
a right angle.
One of these series of threads is placed in the longitudinal direction, and in order to
keep them separated from each other they are caused to pass between the teeth of a
comb which occupies horizontally the entire width of the loom, this series of threads
being called the warp. The threads of the other series are wound upon a bobbin and
drawn by means of a shuttle which causes them to pass horizontally between the
threads of the warp, and cross the latter transversely, this series of threads constituting
the weft.
The comb, between the teeth of which the threads of the warp pass, has for its
object to separate each of these threads and keep them apart from each other; to
ensure the exact width of the fabric during the whole time of the operation and to
press the threads against each other by an oscillatory backward motion after every
passage of the shuttle.
As the threads of the warp are vertical, and those of the weft horizontal, it follows
that in every woven fabric is invariably noticed three distinct directions, that is to
say, the longitudinal direction in which the threads of the warp are placed; the
horizontal or transverse direction in which the threads of the weft are connected or
crossed with the warp threads; the diagonal or oblique direction at an angle of forty-
five degrees to the warp or weft thread.
In the direction of the warp thread the fabric absolutely resists stretching or
lengthening, for the threads have already been subjected to a strong tensional strain
at the moment when they were mounted upon the loom.
In the direction of the breadth the thread of the weft permits of only a slight amount
of lengthening or stretching, for it has been stretched upon the loom by the throw of
the shuttle.
It is in the diagonal or oblique direction that the fabric mainly possesses suppleness.
When a strip of fabric is cut in this direction the threads permit of stretching and they
can be more or less lengthened according as the meshes of the fabric are more or less
tightly woven but they have no elasticity; they necessarily retain the position which
has been given them after the stretching because the threads of the warp have, in
the fabric previously cut, the same length as the threads of the weft, they have
therefore the same resistive strength and consequently neutralize each other in the
force exerted in order to reoccupy the original position obtained at the time of the
weaving.
In the industry it often happens that fabric is used after it has been cut obliquely,
especially for making various parts of clothing, but the use of fabric thus cut

page_text: obliquely is very limited, as only small parts of fabric can be cut in the oblique
direction, by reason of the inconveniences resulting from the breadth, the arrangement
of the design, the direction of the pile, and the like. Accordingly not a complete suit
can be obtained by cutting the fabric diagonally, but only certain interior parts which
are hidden from view.
Now in order to enable in every case the employment, in any form and width,
of fabric cut in the diagonal direction, I make fabric in which the weft is diagonal
with regard to the warp and not at a right angle to the warp as heretofore.
For this purpose 1 have devised a loom which will enable this fabric to be woven
diagonally.
The general construction of this improved loom is the same as that of the looms
heretofore used but the comb and beater instead of being perpendicular to the sides of
the frame, are arranged obliquely at an angle of forty five degrees. The comb is
displaced in the direction of the warp as heretofore, that is to say, obliquely in this
case. This movement can be imparted by means of connecting rods actuated by the
cranks of a shaft which receives its motion from the main shaft throngh the medium of
bevel wheels.
If the teeth of the comb are made of strips, the latter will be placed at an angle
of forty-five degrees in their frames. If the teeth of the said comb consist of round
steel wire, they must be placed so far apart that the distance between them shall be
proportional to the obliquity which is desired, in order to obviate the friction between
them and the thread of the fabric.
The loom being thus mounted, its operation is effected as in other looms for weaving
purposes. But the shuttle, instead of being caused to move at a right angle to the
warp will follow the oblique path of the comb. The weft left by it will therefore form
a diagonal lino relatively to the threads of the warp.
The fabric being thus woven according to the above described new mode, each mesh
of the said fabric will represent a diamond or rhombus instead of a square, and the
threads of the weft will be in the diagonal direction instead of being, as those of
other fabrics, in a horizontal direction. Accordingly the whole fabric will be woven
obliquely, and will thus have qualities of suppleness and elasticity which afford very
great advantages.
The improved fabric is moreover remarkable for its strength it can be torn only
with difficulty, will not show any signs of wear in the places which are much used.
This fabric offers special facilities for upholstering furniture and for carriage hoods,
and it is admirably adapted for the manufacture of billiard cloth, boat sails, and for
numerous other purposes.
Dated this 1st day of 1000
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
45, Southampton Buildings, London, Agents for the Applicant.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements relating to the Manufacture of Woven Fabrics and to
Looms therefor.
I, HYACINTHE MARIE FOUILLET-CHEVANCE, of 23 Boulevard de Strasbourg, Paris,
in the Republic of France, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in
what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement:-
This invention relates to a method of manufacturing woven fabrics and to apparatus
employed for carrying the same into effect. Textile fabrics have heretofore been
made either by plaiting or braiding or by knitting or else by weaving. The said
invention relates to the latter class of textile fabric. In order to weave fabric,
such as cloth, ribbon, calico, satin, velvet, linen, or the like, bar looms or Jacquard
looms are used.
Whatever may be the name, the form, and the mechanism of the apparatus employed,

page_text: and whatever may be the textile materials and the design, the fabric made upon a
loom is produced by two series of threads which invariably cross each other at a
right angle.
One of these series of threads is placed in the longitudinal direction, and in order
to keep them separated from each other they are caused to pass between the teeth of a
comb which occupies horizontally the entire width of the loom, this series of threads
being called the warp. The threads of the other series are wound upon a bobbin, and
drawn by means of a shuttle which causes them to pass horizontally between the
threads of the warp and cross the latter transversely, this series of threads constituting
the weft.
The comb, between the teeth of which the threads of the warp pass, has for its
object to separate each of these threads, and keep them apart from each other; to
ensure the exact width of the fabric during the whole time of the operation and to
press the threads against each other by an oscillatory backward motion after every
passage of the shuttle.
As the threads of the warp are vertical, and those of the weft horizontal, it follows
that in every woven fabric three distinct directions is invariably noticed that is to
say (1) the longitudinal direction in which the threads of the warp are placed; (2) the
horizontal or transverse direction in which the threads of the weft are connected or
crossed with the warp threads and (3) the diagonal or oblique direction at an angle of
forty-five degrees to the warp or weft thread.
In the direction of the warp thread the fabric absolutely resists stretching or
lengthening for the threads have already been subjected to a strong tensional strain at
the moment when they were mounted upon the loom.
In the direction of the bredth the thread of the weft permits of only a slight amount
of lengthening or stretching, for it has been stretched upon the loom by the throw
of the shuttle.
It is in the diagonal or oblique direction that the fabric mainly possesses suppleness.
When a strip of fabric is cut in this direction the threads permit of stretching, and
they can be more or less lengthened according as the meshes of the fabric are more or
less tightly woven but they have no elasticity; they necessarily retain the position
which has been given them after the stretching because the threads of the warp have
in the fabric previously cut, the same length as the threads of the weft, they have
therefore the same strength of resistance and consequently neutralize each other in
the force exerted in order to reoccupy the original position obtained at the time of
the weaving.
In the industry it often happens that fabric is used after it has been cut obliquely,
especially for making various parts of clothing; but the use of fabric thus cut
obliquely is very limited, as only small parts of fabric can be cut in the oblique
direction by reason of the inconveniences resulting from the breadth, the arrange-
ment of the design, the direction of the pile, and the like. Accordingly a complete
suit cannot be obtained by cutting the fabric diagonally, but only certain interior
parts which are hidden from view.
Now in order to enable in every case the employment, in any form and width,
of fabric cut in the diagonal direction, I make fabric in which the weft is diagonal
with regard to the warp, and not at a right angle to the warp as heretofore.
For this purpose I have devised a loom which will enable this fabric to be woven
diagonally.
The manner in which the invention is carried into practise is illustrated in the
accompanying drawing which shows the said loom in plan.
The general construction of this improved loom is the same as that of the looms
heretofore used, but the comb and beater ✗, instead of being perpendicular to the sides
of the frame, are arranged obliquely at an angle of forty-five degrees. The comb
is displaced in the direction of the warp as heretofore that is to say, obliquely in this
case. The movement can be imparted by means of connecting rods b b actuated by
the cranks of a shaft a which receives its motion from the main shaft through the
medium of bevel wheels c, c.

page_text: If the teeth of the comb are made of strips, the latter will be placed at an angle of
forty five degrees in their frames. If the teeth of the said comb consist of round steel
wire they must be placed so far apart that the distance between them shall be
proportional to the obliquity which is desired, in order to obviate the friction between
them and the thread of the fabric.
The loom being thus mounted, its operation is effected (as in other looms for
weaving purposes. But the shuttle, instead of being caused to move in a direction at
a right angle to the warp will follow the oblique path of the comb. The weft left by
it will therefore forur a diagonal line relatively to the threads of the warp.
The fabric being thus woven according to the above described new mode, each mesh
of the said fabric will represent a diamond or rhombus instead of a square, and the
threads of the weft will be in the diagonal direction instead of being, as those of other
fabrics, in a horizontal direction. Accordingly the whole fabric will be woven
obliquely and will thus have qualities of suppleness and elasticity which afford very
great advantages. The improved fabric is moreover remarkable for its strength; it
can be torn only with difficulty, will not show any signs of wear in places which are
much used. This fabric offers special facilities for upholstering furniture, and for
carriage hoods, and it is admirably adapted for the manufacture of billiard cloth, boat
Buils, and for numerous other purposes.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is :-
First. The diagonal weaving, at an angle of forty five degrees or at any other
suitable inclination, of any fabrics employed in the industry.
Second. The means for effecting the diagonal weaving, more especially the particular
form, arrangement and operation of the oblique comb relatively to the warp.
Third. The application of the loom for diagonal weaving, and the combination,
arrangement and working of the various parts in their entirety and in their details,
with the object of effecting the said diagonal weaving.
Fourth. As a new product, any fabric woven diagonally.
Dated this h
of Octobe 1000
LOOM
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HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
45, Southampton Buildings, London, Agents for the Applicant.