AN IMPROVED PROCESS FOR EMBOSSING ON TEXTILE FABRICS, APPLICABLE TO MURAL DECORATIONS, UPHOLSTERY, AND OTHER DECORATIVE PURPOSES GENERALLY
Year: 1880

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Shirley Bowden, of Southampton Buildings, London,
Gentleman, for an Invention of "AN IMPROVED PROCESS FOR EMBOSSING ON
TEXTILE FABRICS, APPLICABLE TO MURAL DECORATIONS, UPHOLSTERY, AND
OTHER DECORATIVE PURPOSES GENERALLY." A communication from abroad
by Leon Pierre Ballarini, of Paris, in the Republic of France.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Shirley Bowden at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 13th May 1880.
" AN
SHIRLEY BOWDEN, of Southampton Buildings, London, Gentleman.
IMPROVED PROCESS FOR EMBOSSING ON TEXTILE FABRICS, APPLICABLE TO MURAL
DECORATIONS, UPHOLSTERY, AND OTHER DECORATIVE PURPOSES GENERALLY."
[A communication from abroad by Leon Pierre Ballarini, of Paris, in the Republic
of France.]
This Invention has for its object to produce raised designs upon textile fabrics
and materials applicable for wall decorations, upholstery, and other decorative
purposes generally by novel combinations of materials, as presently described.
.
The first part of this Invention relates to producing a raised design upon
any textile fabric or material whereon the design has been previously traced. To
effect this, several thickness of material are laid one over the other, the number
of such thicknesses being regulated by the height of the relief desired to be
produced. Such various thicknesses are held together by manual or mechanical
pressure, and are afterwards wrapped in a cloth or other suitable wrapper, which
not only serves as an interior surface but also imparts additional solidity to the
various superposed thicknesses. The exterior fabric is then stitched through the
outlines of the design traced thereon, after which it only remains to color the
design. This kind of embossing may be executed in any kind of material possessing
suppleness and flexibility, but preferably in such fabrics as are not dressed or
glazed.
2ndly. As to reliefs which are laid on and sewn. To produce these reliefs a
similar process is adapted to that already described, with this difference, that such
reliefs are made in parts or sections, and if necessary are cut out and laid on the
material forming the ground and the entire superficies of the design.

page_text: 3rdly. As to reliefs which are sewn and glued. These are produced by the
following operation:-A piece of linen stuff is well stretched on a frame, after
which it is coated on both sides with a gelatinous or gluey coating and allowed
to dry.
The design is traced on both sides, and on the first of such sides several
thicknesses of woollen material are laid one over the other and slightly sized or
glued. When this operation is completed the whole is covered with the material.
which is to form the external surface, after which it is turned over and sewn over
the outlines which form the design. The sizing employed is composed, preferably,.
of caout-chou mixed with "colleine," but other descriptions of sizing may be
employed if desired.
4thly. As to embossing on glazed or dressed materials. This is effected by first
forming the raised designs or reliefs in a similar manner to that already described,
save that the design is only drawn on one face of the under material or fabric.
When the reliefs are finished that portion which forms the groundwork is entirely
coated over, and immediately afterwards another thickness of material is laid
thereon, which forms the external surface.
Fifthly. As to embossing on stuffs dressed with a gelatinous substance or on gutta
percha. These reliefs are obtained by means of hollow moulds which reproduce the
desired subject. The operation is as follows:-When the mould is set up and well
dried its face is entirely recovered, as well on its flat as on its projecting parts, with
a covering of dry cloth. All the hollows or cavities of the mould are then cut out
in such cloth, so as thoroughly to disclose the same.
When this is done such cavities are lubricated with grease, after which they are
filled with a gelatinous or gluey substance or gutta percha. The mould is then
turned upside down and allowed to dry on a piece of linen cloth coated with size
and stretched on a frame, which cloth retains the material when the mould is
withdrawn. It is then allowed to harden in order to solidify the reliefs, and
afterwards laid on the fabric forming the superficial surface. Finally, the mould is
placed thercon in such a manner as to cover the entire design, which is left to dry
in this position.
In the case of gutta percha it is liquified with benzine mixed with cotton wasto
to render it adhesive, after which the same process is to be observed as for
producing raised designs on textile fabrics.
Coloring is added by any of the ordinary and well known methods.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said Shirley Bowden in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 13th November
1880.
SHIRLEY BOWDEN, of Southampton Buildings, London, Gentleman.
"IMPROVEMENTS IN EMBOSSING ON TEXTILE FABRICS, APPLICABLE TO MURAL
DECORATIONS, UPHOLSTERY, AND OTHER DECORATIVE PURPOSES GENERALLY."
A communication from abroad by Leon Pierre Ballarini, of Paris, in the Republic of
France.
This Invention has for its object to produce raised designs upon textile fabrics
and materials applicable for wall decorations, upholstery, and other decorative
purposes generally. by novel combinations of materials, as presently described.
The first part of this Invention relates to producing a raised design upon any
textile fabrics or materials whereon the design has been previously traced. To
effect this several thicknesses of material are laid one over the other, the number of
such thicknesses being regulated by the height of the relief desired to be produced.
Such various thicknesses are held together by manual or mechanical pressure, and
are afterwards wrapped in a cloth or other suitable wrapper, which not only serves
as an interior surface but also imparts additional solidity to the various superposed
thicknesses. The exterior fabric is then stitched through the outlines of the design
traced thereon, after which it only remains to color the design. This kind of
embossing may be executed in any kind of material possessing suppleness and
flexibility, but preferably in such fabrics as are not dressed or glazed.
Secondly. As to reliefs which are laid on and sewn. To produce theso reliefs a
similar process
is adopted to that already described, with this difference, that such
reliefs are made in parts or sections, and if necessary are cut out and laid on
the material forming the ground and the entire superficies of the design.
Thirdly. As to reliefs which are sewn and glued. These are produced by the
following operation:-A piece of linen stuff is well stretched on a frame, after
which it is coated on both sides with a gelatinous or gluey coating and allowed
to dry.
The design is traced on both sides, and on the first of such sides several
thicknesses of woollen material are laid one over the other and slightly sized or
glued. When this operation is completed the whole is covered with the material
which is to form the external surface, after which it is turned over and sewn over
the outlines which form the design. The sizing employed is composed, preferably,
of caoutchouc mixed with " colleine," but other descriptions of sizing may be
employed if desired.
Fourthly. As to embossing on glazed or dressed materials. This is effected by
first forming the raised designs or reliefs in a similar manner to that already
described, save that the design is only drawn on one face of the under material
or fabric. When the reliefs are finished that portion which forms the groundwork
is entirely coated over, and immediately afterwards another thickness of material
is laid thereon, which forms the external surface.
Fifthly. As to embossing on stuffs dressed with a gelatinous substance or on gutta
percha. These reliefs are obtained by means of hollow moulds which reproduce the
desired subject. The operation as follows: When the mould is set up and well
dried its face is entirely recovered, as well on its flat as on its projecting parts, with
a covering of dry cloth. All the hollows or cavities of the mould are then cut out
in such cloth so as thoroughly to disclose the same.
When this is done such cavities are lubricated with gease, after which they are
filled with a gelatinous or gluey substance or gutta percha.
The mould is then turned upside down on a piece of linen cloth coated with size

page_text: and stretched on a frame and allowed to dry, which cloth retains the material
when the mould is withdrawn. It is then allowed to harden in order to solidify
the reliefs, and afterwards laid on the fabric forming the superficial surface.
Finally, the mould is placed thereon in such a manner as to cover the entire design,
which is left to dry in this position.
In the case of gutta percha it is liquified with benzine mixed with cotton waste
to render it adhesive, after which the same process is to be observed as for producing
raised designs on textile fabrics.
Coloring is added by any of the ordinary and well known methods.
Having thus described the nature of the said Invention and the manner of
carrying the same into effect, I claim as the Invention so communicated to me as
aforesaid, the various improvements in embossing on textile fabrics, substantially as
hereinbefore set forth and described, and which improvements are also applicable
to mural decorations, upholstery, and other decorative purposes generally.
In witness whereof, I, the said Shirley Bowden, have hereunto set my hand
and seal, this Thirteenth day of November, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and eighty.
SHIRLEY BOWDEN. (L.S.)