IMPROVEMENTS IN LOOMS FOR WEAVING HATS AND OTHER ARTICLES OF IRREGULAR SHAPE
Year: 1864

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Edward Newton, of the Office for Patents,
66, Chancery Lane, in the County of Middlesex, Civil Engineer, for the
Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN LOOMS FOR WEAVING HATS AND OTHER
ARTICLES OF IRREGULAR SHAPE."-A communication from abroad by Almet
Reed, of New York City, United States of America.
Sealed the 16th September 1864, and dated the 1st April 1864.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Edward Newton
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on
the 1st April 1864.
I, WILLIAM EDWARD NEWTON, of the Office for Patents, 66, Chancery Lane,
in the County of Middlesex, Civil Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of
the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN LOOMS FOR WEAVING HATS AND OTHER
ARTICLES OF IRREGULAR SHAPE," to be as follows:-
This Invention relates to a novel construction of circular loom for weaving
hats and other articles of irregular shape, and consists principally in the
employment in a circular loom of two separate and distinct sets of weaving
mechanism, one set being arranged for weaving flat or nearly flat work, such
as the top of the crown and brim of hats, and the other set for weaving in a
cylindrical form, or approximating thereto, as for the side of the crown of the
hat. The two sets of weaving mechanism are so arranged relatively to each
other that the warp in a partly woven piece of work can be transferred from.
one set to the other so as to change the form of work at pleasure without

page_text: disturbing or moving the portion already woven. It also consists in making
that set of weaving mechanism by which the weaving of the flat portions of a
piece of work (such as the top of the crown and brim of a hat) is performed
movable relatively to the other set in a direction parallel with the axis of the
machine about which the weaving is performed instead of radially thereto.
By this means the mechanism is enabled to be brought to the most favorable
position for weaving each of those portions, and the necessity for shifting the
woven part of the hat or other article at any stage of the operation is avoided.
Also in the means of holding the partly woven hat or other article in its place
while transferring the warp from one set of weaving mechanism to the other.
Also in a certain novel device employed in combination with the mechanism for
weaving the side of the crown of the hat or the cylindrical or hollow portion
of any other article to regulate the size thereof. Also in certain improved
means of operating what may be termed the warp carriers which carry the
warp in a circular loom to produce the opening and crossing of the shed.
And further in certain improvements in the apparatus or devices for depositing
and pressing up the weft in the warp.
The novel mechanical parts whereby these operations and movements are
effected, and which form the principal features of novelty in the present
improvements are as follows:-The employment in a circular loom of two
separate and distinct sets of weaving mechanism, one suitable for weaving in
a flat or nearly flat form as required for the top of the crown and brim of a
hat, and the other suitable for weaving in a. cylindrical or hollow form as
required for the sides of the crown of a hat, the two sets of mechanism
being so constructed and arranged that the warp may be transferred from one
set to the other so as to change the form of the weaving. This is effected in
a circular loom having two separate and distinct sets of weaving mechanism
such as those above mentioned by making one set movable or adjustable
relatively to the other in a direction parallel with the axis of the loom, so that
it may be raised or lowered or moved in a vertical direction so as to bring the
two sets near to each other in order that the warp threads may be transferred
from the one to the other.
Another improvement is the combination of a circular plate with a curved
forming shuttle, whereby the weft threads are introduced into the shed which
is opened by the shuttle as the thread is introduced. In combination with
this circular plate there is a ring or former to hold or secure the vertical part
of the crown in the circular loom after the crown, has been woven by the
shuttle and warp threads which are ranged radially round the machine.
There are also a series of revolving rings or their equivalents provided with a

page_text: toothed or notched wheel, or a pair of toothed or notched wheels, for the
purpose of dividing or separating a series of warp carriers for the purpose of
forming the shed. The shuttle, is constructed in the form of a nearly complete
ring, whereby it is made to serve the two purposes of depositing the filling or
weft thread in the shed of the warp in weaving the side of the crown of the hat,
and of gathering in the warp and regulating the size of the crown of the hat.
Another improvement consists in the employment in a circular loom, in
combination with a presser bar, of a wheel or rollers, for the purpose of pressing
up the filling or weft between the warp threads by means of rolling friction.
An elliptical form of brim of the hat is produced by giving the pressing
mechanism a movement toward and from the centre of the loom during each
of their revolutions, increasing or decreasing the radius of motion at the
proper time. The two sets of weaving mechanism are mounted on two sets
of plates or rings, and the warp threads are held by spring fingers or hooks at
the end of sets of arms that project inwards towards the work. One of these
sets of radial arms are guided between vertical pins projecting from the rings
or plates which carry them. The other set of spring arms work in slots cut
in another set of plates, and the warp threads are transferred from one set of
spring hooks to the other by bringing them together as already mentioned and
causing the spring hooks of one set to take the warp threads from the spring
hooks of the other.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed'
by the said William Edward Newton in the Great Seal Patent Office
on the 1st October 1864.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, WILLIAM
EDWARD NEWTON, of the Office for Patents, 66, Chancery Lane, in the County
of Middlesex, Civil Engineer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the First day of April, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-four, in the twenty-seventh year
of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant
unto me, the said William Edward Newton, Her special license that I, the
said William Edward Newton, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or
such others as I,. the said William Edward Newton, my executors, adminis-
trators, and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to
time and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and

page_text: lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of
Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention
for "IMPROVEMENTS IN LOOMS FOR WEAVING HATS AND OTHER ARTICLES OF
IRREGULAR SHAPE," being a communication from abroad, upon the condition
(amongst others) that I, the said William Edward Newton, by an instrument
in writing under my hand and seal, should particularly describe and ascertain.
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be
performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office.
within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said
Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said William Edward Newton, do hereby.
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same
is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement, reference being had to the Drawings hereunto
annexed, and to the letters and figures marked thereon (that is to say):-
This Invention relates to a novel construction of circular loom for weaving
hats and other articles of irregular shape," and consists principally in the
employment in a circular loom of two separate and distinct sets of weaving.
mechanism, one set being arranged for weaving flat or nearly flat work, such.
as the top of the crown and brim of hats, and the other set for weaving in a.
cylindrical form or approximating thereto as for the side of the crown of the
hat. The two sets of weaving mechanism are so arranged relatively to each
other that the warp in a partly woven piece of work can be transferred from
one set to the other so as to change the form of work at pleasure without.
disturbing or moving the portion already woven. It also consists in making
that set of weaving mechanism by which the weaving of the flat portions of a
piece of work (such as the top of the crown and brim of a hat) is performed
moveable relatively to the other set in a direction parallel with the axis of the
machine about which the weaving is performed, instead of radially thereto.
By this means the mechanism is enabled to be brought to the most favorable
position for weaving each of those portions, and the necessity for shifting the
woven part of the hat or other article at any stage of the operation is avoided.
Also in the means of holding the partly woven hat or other article in its
place while transferring the warp from one set of weaving mechanism to the
other. Also in a certain novel device employed in combination with the
mechanism for weaving the side of the crown of the hat, or the cylindrical or
hollow portion of any other article, to regulate the size thereof. Also in certain
improved means of operating what may be termed the warp carriers which
the warp
in a circular loom to produce the opening and crossing of the
carry

page_text: shed; and, further, in certain improvements in the apparatus or devices for
depositing and pressing up the weft in the warp.
The Invention is illustrated in the accompanying Drawings, in which Fig. 1
is a central vertical section of a loom constructed according to the Invention ;
Fig. 2 is a horizontal section of the same in the plane indicated by the line
a, a, in Fig. 1; Fig. 3 is a plan of the upper part of the machine; Figures 4
to 19 inclusive are views of the details of the machine, which will be herein-
after explained.
a
A is a horizontal bed plate supported on three feet A¹, A', A¹, and sup-
porting three uprights A³, A², A', which are connected at their upper ends by
plate A³; these parts constitute the main framing of the loom. B, B*, are
the stationary horizontal flat rings or annular plates arranged one above
another in the centre of the main frame at a suitable distance apart to provide
for the attachment or support of all the mechanism for weaving the top crown
and brim of a hat. The internal diameter of these rings requires to be con-
siderably greater than the length of the warp strands or threads, which length
is sufficient for the strands to extend across the top of the crown, twice down
the side of the crown, and twice across the brim, besides providing for the
shortening which takes place in weaving, and allowing for their attachment to
the warp carriers. The rings B and B are secured firmly to slides C, C, C,
which are so attached to the uprights A, A, A, as to be capable of being
elevated or depressed, the slides and rings or annular plates combined forming
an independent vertically moveable frame. This frame is supported by means
of screws D, D, of which there is one attached to each slide C, the mode-of
attachment being such that the screw cannot turn on its axis. These screws
are fitted to nuts a, which are fitted to turn freely in bearings provided for
them in the bed plate A, and the nuts are furnished under the bed plate with
bevel wheels 6 gearing with similar bevel wheels c¹ on the outer ends of three
horizontal shafts c, c, c, which are arranged radially to the centre of the bed
plate in suitable fixed bearings, and are furnished at their inner-ends with
similar bevel wheels c, d, all of which gear with a bevel wheel'd; which is
fitted to turn freely on a stationary hollow upright shaft e secured in the
centre of the bed plate. One of the shafts c, c, is furnished with a spur
wheel c³, which gears with a spur wheel f' on a horizontal shaft f arranged
in suitable bearings below the shaft c; and this shaft is furnished with a hand
crank, by turning which all the shafts c, c, are caused to turn simul-
taneously and at the same speed; and will transmit rotary motion to the nuts
a, a, which are thus caused to raise or lower the screws D, D, equally, and so
raise or lower the frame B, B*, C, C, C, according to. the direction in which

page_text: the crank is turned. The object of this raising and lowering of the frame
which supports or has attached to it the mechanism for weaving the top of the
crown and brim is to bring the mechanism as nearly as possible to the level
of the work in weaving both of these portions of the hat, it being desirable
not to move the hat from the time of its commencement till the weaving has
been completed.
The frame which carries the mechanism for weaving the side of the crown
or upright portion of the hat is stationary. It is composed of a central circular
plate E and surrounding ring E* arranged in the upper part of the main
frame concentric with the rings B, B*. The plate E is secured firmly to, and
is supported by a fixed central upright shaft F secured in the top plate A³ of
the main framing. The ring E is secured firmly to, and supported by brackets
G, G, bolted to the uprights A, A, A, of the main framing.
Having now described the whole of the framing and mere supporting parts
of the loom, I will proceed to describe the mechanism for weaving the top of
the crown and brim of the hat, and afterwards that for weaving the side of the
crown.
Each of the rings B, B*, has firmly secured in it two concentric circular
series of upright pins 9, 9, and h, h, those in the lower ring B projecting
above the upper surface of the ring, and those in the upper ring B* projecting
downward from the lower surface of the ring. The several pins are of equal
length, and spaces are left between the two upper and lower series for the
passage of the weft and the arm of the shuttle carrier, as will be herein-after
explained. The number of pins in each of the four (two upper and two
lower) series is equal to the greatest number of threads or strands to be
employed in the warp. The pins in each series are equidistant, and each pin
in either series is directly opposite to or in line with a pin of the opposite
series. Those of the two inner series h, h, are arranged opposite the spaces
between those of the two outer series 9, 9. The two outer series serve to
attach the warp carriers I, I, and the two inner series to guide the carriers,
as shewn in Fig. 2, where part of the upper stationary rings B* is represented
as broken away. The warp carriers consist simply of flat cases made of tin
plate or other sheet metal having just sufficient space between their sides for
the reception and working of flat springs i, i, made of india-rubber or other
material, and having sockets at their outer or back ends to fit easily to the
pins 9, 9, the depth of the sockets being not greater than the length of the
pins, and the depth of the cases diminishing toward the inner or front ends in
taper form, as shewn in Fig. 1. Each of the carriers has formed upon the
back of its socket a projecting tooth or lug k, which is acted upon to produce

page_text: the operation of the carriers, as herein-after described. The springs i, i, have
their back ends attached securely to the back parts of the carriers, and are
furnished with thin flat hooks j, j, at their front ends for the attachment of
the strands 1, 1, of the warp which extends from the hook j of one carrier
across. the centre of the loom to the hook ; of the opposite carrier, the attach-.
ment being made by loops formed in the ends of the strands, or by loops,
rings, or hooks secured thereto. The object of the springs is to hold the
warp sufficiently tight or with a sufficient tension upon it for weaving, and to
allow the ends to yield sufficiently to compensate for the shortening which is
consequent upon the corrugation produced in weaving. The opening and
crossing of the shed (that is to say) the bringing of the several strands of the
warp into a condition for the weft to pass over some and under others, and
the closing of the strands over the weft is effected by the movements of the
warp carriers from the upper to the lower pins 9, 9, and vice versa, the order
of the operation of the carriers depending on the kind of weaving (plain, twill,
or otherwise) to be produced, but for plain weaving one is elevated and the
next depressed all the way round; those which are depressed in one revo-
lution require to be elevated in the next, and hence an odd number of carriers
are required.
The example represented in the Drawing has the devices for operating the.
warp.carriers constructed and arranged for plain weaving; these devices are
partly represented in Fig. 1, and partly in Figures 5 and 6, which are outside
views taken on opposite sides of the rings B, B*, which for the sake of dis-
tinction I will call the stationary rings, they being stationary during the
operation of weaving. The above-mentioned devices consist of three rotating
metal rings or bands m, n, p, encircling the carriers between the rings B, B*,
and a toothed wheel H arranged in the lower ring m. The three rotating
rings m, n, p, are all connected together by plates q, q, outside, and the lower
one m has secured to it a ring r, which is toothed all around its outer edge to
gear with and receive rotary motion from a spur wheel s, which turns on a
fixed stud t secured in one of the slides C, C. The rings m, n, p, are at such
distances apart that there are spaces or channels u and v between them, just
wide enough for the reception of the teeth or lugs k on the backs of the warp
carriers. The upper and lower rings m and p extend entirely around the
warp carriers, but the middle one n has an opening, as shewn at 20, 21,
Fig. 5. The several rings are so formed that the channels u and are
horizontal and parallel with the faces of the stationary rings B, B*, except
for a short distance on each side of the opening 20, 21, where they are
inclined, so that the upper and lower channels meet in the opening, and form

page_text: for a short distance a single channel as shewn in Fig. 5, the middle ring n
terminating in two sharp points 20 and 21 at the meeting of the channels.
The lugs k, k, of the warp carriers being received in the channels u and v, the
carriers are caused to rise and fall when in each revolution of the rings m
and P with the toothed ring r, the inclined portions of the channels pass the
lugs, and the carriers are held up or down on the higher or lower pins 9, 9,
in the remaining greater portion of the revolution, during which they are in.
the straight or horizontal portions of the channels. The revolution of the
ring m, n, p, r, is in the direction of the arrows shewn on the rings n in
Figures 2 and 5. By the passage of the lugs down or up either channel u or v
into the single channel, the warp carriers are brought to a position midway
between the two rings B, B*, and midway between the positions they occupy
when the shed is open, and before the point 20 arrives at any warp carrier in
the rotation of the rings. The carrier if it is to be raised up above the
opening between the two series of pins 9, 9, for the weft to pass under, it must
be lifted high enough to pass over the point 20, otherwise it will be caused by
gravitation to descend the lower channel v below the opening between the two
series of pins g, g, for the weft to pass over it. The lifting of the carriers is
effected by the toothed wheel H before referred to. This wheel has teeth and
notches something like a cog wheel, and is arranged in an opening in the
lower ring n, where it turns freely on a pin w, which attaches it to one of the
connecting plates q, q, the axis of the pin w being almost directly under the
point 20, and at such distance from the point 20 that the tops of its teeth
will pass just above the point in their revolution. The teeth and notches in
the wheel H are so spaced that two of the lugs k, k, on the carriers might
rest on two of the teeth, while the lug of an intervening carrier would be in
the intervening notch of the wheel; this wheel H is caused to turn on its axis,
in the direction indicated by the arrow marked on it in Fig. 5, by the pressure
of its teeth against the lugs of alternate carriers as the wheel revolves with the
rings, and its teeth are thus brought under the lugs of the intervening carriers
and caused to lift them over the point 20, and into the upper groove u; but
the lugs which enter the notches of the wheel are carried into the lower
groove v, so that as the rings continue their rotation they raise every second
carrier, and depress the intervening ones. J is what may be termed the
shuttle, by which the weft or filling is deposited in the shed, while the warp is
attached to and operated by the carriers I, I. The shuttle consists of a long
curved, pointed, and slotted piece of sheet metal, shewn in Figures 1 and 2,
and represented detached in Figures 7 and 8, of which 7 is a top view, and 8
an outside face view. This shuttle is connected at 22, near its heel, with a

page_text: forked-shaped yoke J¹ attached to a flat bar J, termed the shuttle carrier.
This bar J passes through the spaces between the two upper and the two
lower series of pins, and through a slot in the ring n, and its outer end is
secured to a head J³ (Figures 1, 2, and 6) fitted to slide on a rigid guide
rod J', secured to one of the plates q before mentioned, and standing out
radially to the rings m, n, p. The head J³ is also made with a hollow
socket 29 for the passage through it of a hollow screw Js fitted to turn freely,
but prevented from moving longitudinally upon a pin secured rigidly in the
same plate g, and parallel with J. The socket 29 is also fitted with a
threaded tongue 30 secured in place by a ring 31 slipped over it, and thereby
made to serve as a nut to the screw J. By turning the screw J' the shuttle
carrier J' is moved in or out towards and from the centre of the loom, as will
be presently more fully explained. The shuttle carrier is further attached to
the rotating rings m, n, p, so that it may rotate and cause the shuttle to revolve
with them by means of the brace Jo, arranged nearly at a right angle to it,
and which passes between the upper and lower pins g, 9, and h, h, and through
a slot in the ring n, and is secured outside of the ring in any convenient
manner. The shuttle is also" attached at 23 to a brace J', connected by a
movable connection with the brace J. By means of its various connections,
the shuttle is enabled to be adjusted to bring its point as near as may be
desired to the warp carriers, and the broad part near its heel as near as may
be desired to the centre of the loom. The shuttle does not contain the filling.
or weft, but that is supplied from a spool K arranged to rotate on a pin 24
carried by one of the plates 9, 9, and from this spool the filling & passes through
a hole in the plate n, and between the upper and lower pins 9, 9, and h, h,
to the shuttle near the point, of which there are a number of eyes 25 (see
Fig. 2) through one or more of which the filling is passed according to the
degree of friction and tension required to be produced upon it, and from these
eyes the filling passes to the weaving point. The shuttle besides depositing
the filling or weft in the shed assists in drawing the warp tightly over it after
the shed has been crossed, and so pressing up the filling or weft. This is
done by bringing the broad part of the shuttle as near as practicable to the
centre of the loom, so that in passing between the raised and the depressed
strands of warp it may pull them further apart, as shewn in dotted lines 1, 2,
in the Diagram Fig. 9, the bold lines l, l, in the same Figure representing the
direction the stands assume when the shuttle is not between them, or not so
near to the centre of the loom. By thus drawing apart the warp strands, the
filling or weft deposited in the previous revolution of the shuttle, and over
which the warp has been crossed, is forced up closer toward the centre of the

page_text: loom, and against the body of the work. In order that the wide part of
the shuttle which effects the above result may be always at the same distance
from, and as near as practicable to the weaving line, it is obvious that it
should move outward from the centre of the loom, as the weaving from the
centre outward progresses. To effect this movement automatically, the
screw Js has secured to it, close to the plate q, a spur wheel 26, which gears
with a pinion 27, turning on a stud attached to the same plate q, and this
pinion has secured to it a ratchet wheel 28, which is turned one or more teeth
at every revolution of the rings m, n, p, the shuttle and their attachments
coming in contact with and passing a number of fixed pawls or pins 29 secured
in the upper stationary rings E*. From four to eight of these pawls or pins
are used according to the quality of the work. The yoke J'also carries a
presser L attached to its ends for pressing up the work, the pressure of the
shuttle as before described not being of itself sufficient. This presser consists of
a piece of metal of round form in its transverse section, straight longitudinally
and tapered at the ends. The presser as it revolves with the rings m, n, p,
presses in between the crossed strands of the warp, closer to the filling or weft
than the shuttle; there is also attached to the yoke a thin roller M, the edge
of which presses in still closer to the filling and so presses against the crossed
strands quite close to the filling or weft, and thereby presses up the weft quite
close to the body of the work and makes the work quite perfect. This roller
rotates by the friction of its edge against the work. The presser L and roller M
being both connected by the yoke J' with a shuttle carrier J³, are moved
outward along with the wide part of the shuttle as the latter is moved out by
the action of the screw Js. In weaving the top of the crown but two move-
ments of the presser L and roller M are necessary, viz., the revolving motion
around the centre of the hat, and the receding movement from the centre, the
top of the crown being made of true circular form; but to weave the brim of
an elliptical form, approximating to that of the human head, a third movement
is required, viz., a movement towards and from the centre of the loom twice in
every revolution. The movement from the centre takes place as the presser
and wheel revolve from the less towards the greater diameter of the ellipse,
and the movement towards the centre takes place as they revolve from the
greater towards the less diameter. In order to permit this movement,
the yoke J must be capable of sliding back and forth upon the shuttle
carrier J³.
Figures 16 and 17 are top views illustrating a modification in the application
of the yoke J', which permits this movement of the presser and roller in
weaving the brim; and Fig. 18 is a side view of a portion of the same.

page_text: Fig. 16 represents the yoke in condition for weaving the crown; and Fig. 17
represents it in condition for weaving the brim. In Fig. 16 the yoke is
secured firmly to the shuttle carrier Js (Fig. 2) by means of two screws 50, 50,
and is prevented from moving thereon by means of a square projection 51 and
a pin 52, which fit corresponding holes in the shuttle carrier. The small
circle 62 represents the filling or weft line, the weaving having only been just
commenced. Fig. 17 represents the yoke in condition for weaving the brim
in elliptical form. The yoke is moved further back on the shuttle carriers,
and the screws 50, 50, are screwed into two holes further back on the shuttle
carrier, and the projection 51 and pin 52 are inserted into slots 51* and 52*
in the carrier, the length of the slots and of the screw holes in the yoke being
sufficient to permit the necessary movement of the yoke back and forth a
distance equal to the difference between the greatest and least diameter of the
ellipse. The red circle in this Figure represents the outline of the top of the
crown, and the ellipse shown in blue color shews the elliptical form of the
commencement of the brim, the lower edge of the side of the crown being held
in this shape by means of a former U, to be herein-after described.
The yoke J' has attached to one side of it a long pinion 58, the journals of
which are fitted to bearings 64, 65, secured to the yoke, so that the pinion can
have no movement endwise independently of the yoke. The axis of this
pinion is parallel to a sliding movement of the yoke. To the inner end of the
pinion there is secured a cam 56, which bears against an antifriction roller 57
attached to the shuttle carrier. The pinion gears with a bevil wheel 58, on a
shaft 59, which works in bearings 54, 55, in or on a frame 60, secured to the
plate n. The shaft 59 is furnished outside of the frame and outside of the
ring n with a ratchet wheel 61, which is turned one tooth at a time by its
teeth coming in contact with a number of stationary teeth 68 (see Fig. 18)
secured to the upper stationary ring B. The number of these stationary
teeth is equal to twice the number of teeth in the ratchet wheel to produce
two revolutions of the ratchet wheel and its shaft and pinion during each
revolution of the ring n' and the shuttle and devices for pressing up the filling.
The cam 56, by acting against the roller 57, causes the yoke with its attached
presser L and pressing roller M and its attached end of the shuttle to approach
the centre of the loom once during each of its revolutions, and twice during
each revolution of the shuttle and pressing devices.. The arrangements of the
cam must be such as to produce this movement toward the centre as the
pressing devices revolve from the larger towards the smaller diameter of the
ellipse. The retiring movement from the centre is produced by the pressure
of the work as the pressing devices revolve from the smaller toward the larger

page_text: diameter. The length of the pinion must be sufficient for the toothed gear 58
to remain in gear with it while moving out far enough to weave the widest
brim. During the weaving of the top of the crown the wheel 58 is not in
gear with the pinion, and to enable it to be moved out of gear it is so fitted
to its shaft as to be capable of being slidden back thereon, as shewn in
Fig. 16.
The mechanism for weaving the top of the crown and brim having now
been described, I will proceed to describe the mechanism for weaving the side
of the crown, all of which is supported by the stationary plate E and ring E*,
before described. This mechanism only differs from that first mentioned as
much as is rendered necessary or advisable by the necessary difference in its
arrangement.
Between and concentric with the plate E and ring E* there are arranged
two stationary, annular, and radially slotted plates N, N*, (Figures 4, 10,
and 11), in which the upper warp carriers Iº, I, work in substantially the
same manner as the lower warp carriers I, I, work upon and between the
pins g, g, and h, h. These plates are made in the form of hollow frustrums of
a very low cone. The plate N is secured to the plate E, and the plate N* to
the ring E. There is a narrow annular space between the two, as shewn
at 82, in Figures 1, 10, and 11, for the passage of the weft and of the shuttle
carrier. The radial slots 33, 33, in the plates are best shewn in Figures 10
and 11, the former of which is a top view and the latter a vertical section of
portions of the plates, which are for the most part concealed in the other
Figures of the Drawing. The slots in each correspond in number with the
greatest number of strands to be used in weaving the side of the crown of the
hat. They are equidistant, and those of each plate are directly opposite to or
in line with those of the other, so that the warp carriers I°, I°, may pass freely
from one plate into the other. These warp carriers differ somewhat from the
lower set. They are each composed of a taper plate of a thickness to work
easily in the slots 33, 33, having its greatest width a little less than the top of
the slots, and having one or more shoulders 84, 34, at its upper end to support
it on the plates N, N*. This plate I° has attached to it a tube 35 to receive
the shank of the hook jo and a spring which attaches the hook to the carrier.
These hooks and springs are like those j¹ and ¹ of the lower warp carriers,.
and are so situated that after the crown of a hat has been woven the ends of
the warps may be transferred by hand to them from the lower hooks by a
movement such as indicated by red dotted lines 36, 36, in Fig. 1. The
movements of the warp carriers Iº, I, from the plate N into the plate N*, and
vice versâ, to produce the opening and crossing of the sheds are produced by

page_text: is
three revolving rings m³, nº, pº, and two toothed wheels H and Ho*, these
allowing for their being conical to conform to the plates N, N*, instead of
cylindrical, are like the rings m, n, p, of the lower set of weaving mechanism,
and the two wheels are precisely like the wheel H, the two being necessary,
as gravitation does not aid their action, as is the case with H. Fig. 4 is a
The three
top view of these rings and wheels and their attachments.
rings mo, no, po, are arranged above n, n*, and are connected together by
plates 9, 9, like q, q, and also connected by forks 36, 36, and pins 37º, 87º,
with a ring r fitted to turn on the top of the ring E*. This ring rº is toothed
all round to gear with and to receive rotary motion from a spur wheel so
on a vertical shaft to, arranged in a bearing in the top plate A³, Fig. 3,
and in another bearing in a bracket A', Fig. 4, secured to one of the
standards A, Fig. 2, the channels uº, 2º, between the ring mo, no, po,
shown in Figures 4 and 5, are like the channels u, v, between the
rings m, n, p, and the channels receive lugs ko, ko, provided on the backs
of the carriers I°, 1°, so that by the rotation of the rings mo, no, po,
in the same direction as m, n, p, the lugs may be acted upon to produce the
movement of the carriers in the slots 33, 33, toward and from the centre of
the loom by which the opening, and the crossing, and the sheds of the warp
produced. The two wheels H, Ho*, are arranged one in an opening in the
plate mo, and the other in an opening in the plate po, the pins wo, wo, upon
which the wheels rotate, and which secure them to the plates, being so
arranged at equal distances from the point 20° of the ring nº that the tops or
ends of their teeth will enter very slightly between the teeth of the other one.
One of the wheels H°, H*, is caused to rotate upon its axis by the entrance
into its notches of the lug kº of every second carrier I', and the other one is.
caused to rotate on its axis by the entrance into its notches of the intervening
carriers, each rotating in the direction of the arrow in Fig. 4, and the tops of
the teeth of each coming in contact with the lugs ko, ko, which are received in
the notches of the other, and so carrying the lugs over the point 20 of the
plate no, the wheel Ho* transferring over the inner side of the point and into
the inner or upper channel u° the lugs which have previously been in the
channel, and the wheel Ho, transferring over the outer side of the point.
and into the channel the lugs which have previously been in the channel uº,
and thus causing the rotation of the plates mo, po, to produce a proper shedding
of the warp. Jo, yo, Figures 12, 13, 14, 15, is the shuttle by which the weft
or filling is deposited in the shed of the warp while the latter is attached to.
and operated by the carriers I°, I°. This is in the form of a nearly complete
ring, as shown in the plan view, Fig. 12, a portion y' of which terminates in

page_text: a point as shewn at 39, and is attached to the other portion Jo by a screw 40
to permit of its detachment while the brim of the hat is being woven. The
portion Jo is secured permanently to a flat bar Jos, termed the shuttle carrier
which passes through the annular space 32 between the plates N, N, and
through a slot in the plate n and one of the plates 9°, and is furnished above
the plate with a head Jos precisely like the head J³. The lower shuttle
carrier J' is made in two pieces united rigidly by screws 44, 44, shewn in the
face and side views, Figures 14 and 15, and passes through a slot 41 in the
upper part which allows the lower part to be raised up with the part Jo of the
shuttle to bring the latter out of the way in weaving the crown and brim.
The filling or weft is supplied from a spool Kº, see Fig. 8, arranged above
and attached to one of the plates q°, and it passes down through a hole in the
plate no, and through the annular space 32 before mentioned to the shuttle,
and is received in a groove in the outer periphery of the part y° thereof
coming out of the point or tail 39, whence it is deposited in the shed. This
shuttle is also steadied by a brace P, which runs up in a spiral direction from
the front of the shuttle and passes through the annular space 32,' and through
a slot in the plate No, the slot being just large enough to allow it to slide
freely through as the shuttle carrier and shuttle are raised in the process of
weaving the side of the crown from the top toward the brim, the hat being
woven in an inverted position with the crown downward. The head of the
shuttle carrier is guided by a rod Jo, precisely like J' before described in
connection with the lower shuttle carrier, and is operated by a screw Jos,
attached to the plate 9°; it operates in the same manner and by similar means
to the screw Js of the lower shuttle carrier, the ratchet wheel 26° through
which the screw Jos is operated being actuated by stationary pawls 31° secured
to the stationary ring. The teeth of the ratchet wheel are brought in contact
with pawls as the wheel revolves with the rings mo, no, p°. The portion y of
the shuttle, besides depositing the filling or weft in the shed, serves the
purpose of gathering the warp in and regulating the circumference of the
side of the crown of the hat, the extension of which will be just the size of the
inner circle of the shuttle. Were it not for the shuttle being so extended by
the piece no, the inclination of the warps would cause the side of the crown to
be woven in conical form, and the weaving to be looser as the circumference is
increased. The reason for the inclination of the warp (which is visible in Fig. 1)
is, that in order to get into the upper set of weaving mechanism a sufficient
number of warp carriers I°, the said carriers have to be arranged in a circle of
much greater diameter than the circle in which the weaving is performed.
The point or tail 39 is depressed in order that it may deposit the filling or

page_text: weft as close as possible to the previous crossing of the warp. The crossing
of the warp takes place over the portion y' of the shuttle, which being thin
and tapered to the point or tail 39° slips out easily from the crossed shed, and
leaves the filling secured by the closing of the shed. The pressing up of the
filling is effected by a crescent-shaped piece Q which is attached rigidly by a
forked yoke Q' to the shuttle carrier J, the piece operating on the warp like
the broad part of the lower shuttle J to draw it tightly over the filling or
weft. The shuttle Jo has also rollers M°, M°, (see Figures 14 and 15)
attached to it to act in the same manner as the rollers M applied in the lower
weaving mechanism. This shuttle, and the devices for pressing in its filling or
weft, all require to be changed for weaving bats of different sizes as their
curvature must conform to the size of the hat. R and S (Figures 1 and 2)
are two circular clamping plates for clamping the top crown of a hat, and thus
holding it in place, both while the warps are being transferred from one
set of warp carriers to the other, and during the weaving of the side crown of
the hat. The upper one, R, of these plates is of the circumference intended
for the top crown of the hat, and is attached to a sleeve R' which is fitted to
slide freely up and down on the lower part of the stationary central shaft F, and
connected by a rod R³ to a lever R³ arranged to work on a fixed fulcrum 43
above the top plate A, and this lever is furnished with one or more moveable
weights 46 to load it as much as may be desirable. The plate R should
preferably be attached to the sleeve R¹ by a ball-and-socket joint 70, as shewn
in Fig. 19, so that it will operate with a yielding pressure opposite to the
point in its circumference where the weaving is being performed. The lower
plate S may be smaller than R. It is made with a centrally bored socket
fitted to turn freely on the top of a shaft S¹, fitted to slide freely up and down
in line with F through the fixed hollow upright shaft e before mentioned
which is arranged in the centre of the bed plate A. This sliding shaft is
made with a toothed rack, as shewn in Fig. 1, to gear with a pinion T on a
horizontal shaft T, arranged in suitable fixed bearings below the bed plate A.
The shaft T is furnished with a hand crank by which to turn it and the
pinion for raising and lowering the shaft S¹.
The former U, before mentioned, shewn in Fig. 1 in red color, is a removable
ring or band of metal of a circumference just large enough to receive within it
the side of the crown or upright portion of the hat, and it is attached by means
of two or more upright rods 47, 47, to a ring U', which is made flat to rest
upon the bed plate A. The purpose of this former U is to support the side of
the crown of the hat, and prevent it from being stretched or pulled out of
shape in weaving the brim, and will thus preserve the form of the brim, the

page_text: former being of circular or elliptical form according to the form in which the
brim is to be woven, but preferably elliptical, as that is the usual form of the
human head, and it is better to weave the brim to that form than to stretch
or block it to that form after weaving it. The former is supported at such a
height that its upper edge is just even with the termination of the side of the
crown, where it joins the brim. V, Fig. 1, is the shaft for driving the lower
set of weaving mechanism, arranged horizontally in suitable bearings, attached
to one of the standards A, and furnished with a bevil wheel V, which gears
with a bevil wheel st attached to the spur wheels herein-before referred to.
This shaft may be driven by any convenient motive power, and its bevil
wheel V' giving motion to the wheels S¹ and S causes the latter to give rotary
motion to the toothed ring r, which carries with it all the rotary parts of the
lower set of mechanism. W (Fig. 1) is the shaft for driving the upper set
of weaving mechanism arranged horizontally in suitable bearings attached to
or formed in one of the uprights A and the bracket A. This shaft is
furnished with a bevil wheel W¹, which gears with a bevil wheel Sº¹ on the
upright shaft to herein-before mentioned. The shaft W may be driven by the
same power as the shaft V by simply changing the belt or gearing, and its
bevel wheel W¹ giving rotary motion to the bevel wheel S, and shaft to causes
the wheel so to give rotary motion to the toothed ring ro, which carries with it
all of the rotating parts of the upper set of weaving mechanism.
The object of using an odd number of warp threads when every alternate
one is to be raised for plain weaving is, that in each revolution, when the upper
half of the warp changes to the lower, and vice versa, the weft thread or filling
while carried in a continuous rotation in one direction may pass each particular
warp thread on the side opposite to that on which it passed previously.
The operation of weaving a hat in this loom is as follows:-The movable
frame B, B, C, C, C, containing the lower set of weaving mechanism, having
been brought to its lowest position by means of the screws D, D, and the
plate S lowered to leave an open space in the centre of the frame, a suitable
odd number of warp strands or threads, generally about from one-tenth to one-
sixth of the whole number required for the hat, are stretched across the frame,
and their ends secured at equal distances apart to the hooks of the warp
carriers. The filling yarn or weft thread is then brought from the spool K as
herein-before described, to and through the eyes 25, 25, of the shuttle J; and 3
its end brought to the centre of the loom. Power is then applied to the
shaft V, and the lower set of weaving mechanism being thereby set in motion
commences the weaving of the hat at the centre of the top of the crown, and
at cach revolution of the mechanism one pick or course of weft or filling is

page_text: inserted in the open shed, and the warp is crossed over it, and the weft or
filling pressed up. As this operation proceeds the screw J³ gradually draws
the shuttle, and the pressing-up devices further from the centre of the loom,..
as required by the increasing diameter of the web. As the web increases in
diameter, new strands or threads of warp are introduced from time to time by
securing their ends to warp carriers situated at equal intervals between those
occupied by the previously unsettled strands, and in this way the required
degree of closeness of texture is obtained in the crown of the hat. When a
circular web a little larger than the crown of the hat has thus been woven,
the shaft V is stopped, the plate S is raised up in contact with the part so-
woven by means of the pinion T, and suitably secured, and the plate R. is lowered
upon it, and held down by the application of the weight or weights 46 to the
lever R. The web being now clamped between the plates R, S, is held
securely against displacement while the warp strands or threads are detached
from the hooks j,j, of the lower set of weft carriers I, I, and transferred to
the hooks jo, jo, of the upper set I°, I°, by a movement by hand, as indicated
by the dotted lines 86, 86, in Fig. 1, and in so doing the margin of the web
already woven is turned up over the edges of the plate R. The shuttle Jo, yo,
and its respective pressing up devices are inserted, adjusted, and secured in
the loom, and the upper set of weaving mechanism is set in motion by power
applied to the shaft W, and the weaving proceeds in an upward direction to
produce the side of the crown of the hat; the shuttle and pressing-up devices
being drawn upward by the screw Jos as the weaving proceeds. When the
side of the crown has been woven to the required height, which is rather
greater than the intended height of the crown, the shaft W is "stopped, the
upper shuttle and its respective pressing-up devices are taken out, and the
plate S and the former U is put in as shewn in red outline in Fig. 1. This.
former may be attached to the shaft S₁, so as to be adjustable, and the plate S:
may be dispensed with altogether. The frame B, B, C, C, C, is next:
raised up by the screws D, D, so as to bring the space between the upper*
and lower series of pins g; g, h, h, on a lével with the edge of the web, as
produced by the last course of weft, and the warp strands or threads 'are dis-
connected from the hooks jo, jo, and connected again with the hooks j,j, but
owing to so much. of the strands having been taken up in weaving the side of
the crown the strands themselves are not long enough to reach and connect'
directly with the hooks, and the springs to which the hooks are attached could'
not without injury be stretched sufficiently for such direct connection";
I therefore connect with each end of each strand a strap; loop, hook, or other

page_text: suitable device 48 (shewn in red color in Fig. 1) of a length equal to the
height of the crown, and these devices are attached to the hooks j, j. The
edge of the web is thus drawn over the thin upper edge of the former U, and
on the shaft V being again set in motion the lower set of weaving mechanism
is again set in operation, and the weaving of the brim commences.
This part
of the
O process is like that of weaving the top of the crown, and additional
strands are inserted from time to time as the diameter of the web increases,
the shuttle J and its respective. pressing-up devices all moving outward in
proportion to such increase of diameter. The hat is kept in place during the
part of the process by means of the plate R, and former U. When the brim
is of sufficient size the shaft is stopped, the plate R raised out of the hat, the
warp strands disconnected from their carriers, and the weft cut or broken, and
the hat is then removed from the looni. I prefer to weave the brim rather
larger than is required, and to finish it afterwards by turning in the edge all
round and stitching it down.
.
Having now described this Invention of improvements in looms for weaving
hats and other articles of irregular shape, and having explained the manner
of carrying the same into effect, I claim as the Invention secured to me by
Letters Patent as aforesaid,
First, the employment in a circular loom of two separate and distinct sets
of weaving mechanism, one suitable for weaving in a flat or nearly flat form,.
as required for the top of the crown and brim of a hat, and the other suitable
for weaving in a cylindrical or hollow form, as required for the side of the
crown of a hat, and the two so constructed and arranged that the warp may
be transferred from one set to the other to change the form of the weaving, as
herein specified.
Second, in a circular loom having two separate and distinct sets of weaving
mechanism, such as above specified, I claim making one set moveable or
adjustable relatively to the other in a direction parallel with the axis of the
loom, as and for the purpose herein specified.
Third, I claim the combination of the plate R. and forming shuttle Jo, yº,
applied and operating in a circular loom, as and for the purpose herein
specified.
Fourth, I claim the ring or former U applied in combination with a plate R.,
or its equivalent, to hold or secure the vertical part of the crown in a circular
loom after the latter has been formed by the shuttle Jo, yo, as and for the
purpose herein set forth.
.
Fifth, I claim the combination in a circular loom of a series of revolving

page_text: rings m, n, p, or mo, no, po, or their equivalents, and an attached, toothed, or
notched wheel H or pair of toothed or notched wheels H°, H, to separate a
series of warp carriers operating as and for the purpose herein specified.
Sixth, I claim the shuttle Jo, y, constructed in the form of a nearly
complete ring, whereby it is made to serve the two purposes of depositing the
filling in the warp in weaving the side of the crown of the hat, and of gathering
in the warp and regulating the size of the crown of the hat, as herein
set forth.
Seventh, I claim the employment in a circular loom of a wheel or rollers so
applied as to press up the filling or weft in the warp by means of rolling
friction when used in combination with a presser bar L, as herein specified..
Eighth, I claim giving the pressing devices L and g a movement toward
and from the centre of the loom during each of their revolutions, as described
with reference to Figures 16, 17, and 18, for the purpose of producing an
elliptical form of the brim of the hat.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Edward Newton, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, the Thirtieth day of September, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-four.
Witness,
J. W. MOFFATT,
66, Chancery Lane.
W. E. NEWTON. (L.S.)