An Improved Process of and Means for Uniting the Out Edges of I !. Cloth.
Year: 1893

page_text: Date of Application, 15th Nov., 1893-Accepted, 16th Dec., 1893
سلسليل
Date of Application, 15th Nov., 1893-Accepted, 16th Dec., 1893
An Improved Process of and Means for Uniting the Out Edges of
I
!. Cloth.
il. "
I
1.
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I CARL AUGUST OSCAR KLUGE of Limbach, Saxony, Merchant, do hereby
declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be
performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement and accompanying drawings:
..!!
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.
Figure 1 is a side elevation of the principal parts of a sewing machine particularly
of the arrangement for the lateral motion of the needle bar.
Figure 2 is a plan of the looper showing the stab of the needle.
Figure 3 is a plan of the presser with the cloth guide.
Figure 4 illustrates the sewing of the cloth edges in a flat state. The
Figures 44 48 4° are respectively sections through the corresponding parts indicated
by Roman numerals in Figure 4.
Figure 5 shows a double chain stitch as seen from the back.
Figure 6 shows a single chain stitch as seen from the back. In both cases the
needle has gone through at the zig-zag.
Figure 7 shows the mode of sewing very thick cloth.
Figure 8 shows at the left hand a side elevation and at the right hand a front
elevation of an adjustable presser.
The object of my invention is to unite by sewing two pieces of cloth fed to the
sewing machine in a flat state in such a manner that the two cut edges cannot
fray out.
When uniting the cut edges of cloth or knitted fabrics as for example for a
glove by means of an overhead or whip-stitch sewing machine the two pieces are
laid together and fed vertically through a pair of feed rolls or discs to the
horizontally acting needle which enters a little below the edge and unites the two
adjacent edges by an overhead or whip-stitch passing over the junction.
This mode of sewing is subject to certain disadvantages, viz.-it is extremely
difficult to feed so that both parts are always at the same height and owing to the
depth of the sewn edges which is necessary to prevent fraying it is difficult to draw
the stitches tight.
To obviate these disadvantages I employ the following mode of stitching.
The two pieces of cloth a and b Figure 4 are presented in a flat state to the
sewing machine where each edge of the cloth is turned up at right angles. These
turned up edges are stitched over with a zig-zag stitch so that the needle enters
the two pieces alternately. The two turned up edges are thereby either laid down
as shown in Section V VI (Figure 4°) in the case of thin materials or only pressed
down as shown in Figure 7 in the case of thick materials.
In order to sew together the edges of the cloth according to my said invention' a
ongue c (or a stud which is adjustable with regard to the presser is placed in front
of the presser d (Figures 1 and 3). Against the tongue c the edges of the
loth a turn up as at Section I II (Figures 4 and 44). The presser d is provided
vith a slot of such a width that the two edges can conveniently pass through.
The tongue c projects into the mouth of the slot d' so that the edges a¹ b' of the
loth cannot fall but pass along together as shown in Section III IV.
At that part where the needle passes through the presser the slot d¹ is enlarged
s shown at d (Fig. 3) to provide room for the needle as it enters the cloth on
lternate sides of the centre of the seam.
ד
חמד.

page_text: To enable the same presser to be used for thin or thick cloth the slot d¹ is
continued upwards as in Figure 8 and by means of a pinching screw d. the width
of the slot may be regulated.
The sewing may be accomplished by any zig-zag stitch either by a double chain
stitch as in Figure 5 or by a single chain stitch as in Figure 6 but in any case the
needle bar g (Figure 1) must shift at right angles to the direction of the seam.
For instance as shown in Figure 1 the bearings g of the needle bar g' form with the
connecting piece ha frame which oscillates about the presser bar f.
On the side of the connecting piece a small cam plate which is pulled by
the spring k against the roll i at the end of the lever i¹ to which an up and down
swinging motion is imparted in order to cause the needle to oscillate laterally
on the presser bar f. The circular looper 1 (Figure 2) which in making a double
chain stitch contains the second thread is at one stab touched by the needle at y
and the next time at z.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is.-
1. The process or method of uniting the edges of two pieces of cloth by presenting
the cloth in a flat state with each edge turned up at right angles and pressed towards
each other to the needle of a sewing machine and uniting them by a zig-zag stitch
substantially as set forth and shown.
2. For carrying into effect the process described the combination of the tongue c
(or a stud) with a slotted presser foot d substantially as and for the purpose herein-
before set forth and shown.
Dated this 14th day of November 1893.
EDWARD TURNER WHITELOW,
70, Deansgate, Manchester, Agent for the Applicant.