Year: 1887

page_text: Date of Application, 7th Oct., 1887
Complete Specification Left, 9th July, 1888
Complete Specification Accepted, 5th Oct., 1888
444
I, HERBERT JOHN HADDAN of the firm of Herbert & Co., Patent Agents, of 18,
Buckingham Street, W.C., London, in the County of Middlesex, Civil Engineer, do
hereby declare the nature of this invention, a communication to me from abroad by
Joseph Pie Rey, of Puteaux, in the Republic of France, Mechanical Engineer, to be
as follows:-
:-
This invention consists in an attachment for sewing machines enabling the same to
stitch button holes and to sew with.a zig zag stitch or hem.
The object of the invention consists in giving to the material to be stitched a reciprocal
lateral movement in combination with a forward feed equivalent to the distance
apart of the parallel or zig zag stitches formed by such lateral movement.
For this purpose, the material to be stitched is moved by a cloth feed to which the
necessary motions are communicated. The attachment consists essentially of two parts,
one part carries the cloth feed aforesaid, said part attached to the bar of the machine
to which the presser foot is attached in such a manner that the said cloth feed extends
laterally under said presser foot and above the cloth or material to be sewn and is capable
of lateral movement by the movement of the part holding it. The second part contains the
devices necessary for giving said lateral movement to the cloth feed this part being
attached to the head of the machine and the devices therein being operated by connection
with the needle carrying bar.
The latter device consists mainly of a pivoted plate capable of being oscillated on its
pivot, means being provided for adjusting the length or swing of such oscillations.
The oscillations are controlled by suitable mechanism from or by the, rise and fall of
the needle bar, and are such when the needle is in its highest position or near
thereto, that is therefore free of the cloth; an oscillation to the one or other side
takes place, such oscillations being transferred to the cloth feed, so that the needle on

page_text: its descent, in the case of button hole stitching, pieces alternately the cloth at the
desired distance from the slit forming the button hole and the said slit, a stitch being
thereby formed across such distance. The oscillating movement is transferred from
the plate of the second part to the first part aforesaid by a suitable connecting link
capable of adjustment. Suitable means are also provided to give a forward movement,
adjustable in amount, to the aforesaid cloth feed.
The ordinary cloth feed of the machine is rendered inoperative in any suitable
manner when this attachment is used, for instance by covering it with a plate screwed
to the table of the machine, said plate having a passage for the needle only.
Dated this 7th day of October 1887.
HERBERT & Co.,
18, Buckingham Street, Charing Cross, W.C.,
Agents to Applicant..

page_text: Fig. 4a side elevation or a portion thereof.
Figs. 5 and 6 front elevations of other portions thereof.
The mechanism or attachment consists mainly of two parts or groups, the one part
holding the cloth presser foot, and parts connected therewith, the other part containing
certain mechanism for oscillating and lifting the presser foot..
The following is a description of this second part D hereinafter called the
controlling part.
The controlling part is fixed to the head of the machine by two clamps & Figs. 1 and 2.
or other suitable means of attachment.
It consists of a suitable framing or casing in which slides vertically a rod f carrying
the sliding plate j Figs. 1, and 6. The same carries a plate with regulating
screw H on which the needle carrier W abuts at each stroke to lift the rod f, the latter
is normally held and returned to its lowest position by a spiral spring Fig. 6 held
in the screw cap 1 Figs. 1, 2 and 6.
This reciprocal vertical movement is transformed into a reciprocal horizontal alternate
movement produced only on the lifting of the rod f in the following manner.
Fig. 6 represents in front elevation the rear side of the controlling part with the
plates pt removed, these plates being shown in Fig. 5 from the front side that is to
say from that next to the mechanism shown in Fig. 6. The outer plate t oscillates
from left to right and vice versa around the pivot z which passes through a hole therein
and connects it to the frame. The plate p is likewise pivoted at its lower end to the
frame by pin q two corresponding slots à are made respectively in the plates p and t
(that in the plate t being shown in dotted lines in Fig. 5). It will be seen that if
the plates p and are connected by a pin passing through the slots the amplitude of
the oscillation of the plate t relative to that of the plate p will be increased or diminished

page_text: according to the position of the pin in the slots. This adjustable movement of the
plates is imparted to them by the rod in the following manner.
In a groove m Fig. 6 in the plate fixed on the rod is pivoted the star n or
oscillating body, having a long arm or point and laterally thereof two shorter arms
or points. The star is capable of reciprocal vibration for an angle of 45° to the
right and left of the normal, its vibrating is limited by the size of the groove m and
the small spring o having two depressions as shown rests upon the base of the star
so as to tend to hold it in one or other of its extreme positions. The plate p carries a
small projecting pin Fig. 5 in such a position as to meet the star and impinge on the
long arm thereof when the rod f and consequently the star rises. The long arm of the
star according to its position forms an inclined plane to the right or left which meets
the pin and deflects the latter in the corresponding direction whereby the plates p and t
are oscillated.
In continuing its upward movement one of the short lateral arms of the star come in
contact with the pin by which means the star is thrown over into its contrary
position. The plate t is connected to the presser foot carrier by a link or connecting
rod c formed in two parts sliding one within the other and fixed by screws or the like
so that the operative length of the bar may be adjustable.
It is connected at each end by ball and socket joints e e¹ and by its intervention
the alternate lateral movement of the plate t is transferred in full to the presser foot.
The pin a Figs. 1 and 2 traverses the grooves a Fig. 5; it is tapped and traversed
by a threaded spindle supported in the frame, whereby the position of the said pin a¹
may be adjusted. The plates t and p are held in their position during the descent of
the rod by the bolt a vertically lodged in the frame and held normally in its lowest
position by a spring, so that its end engages in one of the square recesses in the
plate p, thus holding this plate at the one or other extreme position of its oscillation.
The bolt u carries a lateral finger u¹ extending out of the frame. The end of a steel
spring a fixed to the sliding platej by a screw X is situated under this finger when
the rod f is in its lowest position.
When the rod frises the end of the steel spring a abuts under the finger u¹ and
lifts the bolt u out of the recess v or t¹ in the plate p. The end of the spring continuing
to rise with the rod arrives upon the inclined plane y and is gradually pushed
outward thereby until it clears the end of the finger u and frees the bolt u permitting
it to fall again into the recess vor now thereunder.
When the rod descends the spring a slides over the end of the finger and only
arrives thereunder, when the rod 7 arrives at the bottom of its course.
Since in working the machine at high speed the spring a might spring over the
finger u without lifting the latter I preferably fix on the side of the frame a bracket a
having an eye through which the spring passes.
In place of the plate p the star in pin a¹, bolt u, and spring above described I may
operate the plate t so as to give it the necessary alternate vibrated movement by the
following means; The rod carries a pawl which operates at each rise of the rod a
ratchet wheel having preferably eight teeth so that at each rise of the rod the said
ratchet wheel is moved for an eighth of its revolution.
The shaft of this wheel is held by a friction spring acting as a brake. In the web
of this wheel is formed a continuous groove inaking eight rounded angles four
re-entering angles and four salient angles, symmetrically round the centre.
A pin fixed to the plate t slides in this groove so that at each rise of the rod the
plate t is vibrated alternately to the right and left. It will be understood that the
descent of the rod f will not cause any movement of the ratchet wheel or of the plate.
At the lower end of the rod is fixed by set screw F an arm c¹ which gives to the
presser foot certain movements in the manner hereinafter described.
The second part of my apparatus which I have called the presser foot carrier E is
so held on the frame of the machine as to be capable of lateral swing around the
vertical pin b. In the "Howe" machine this pin is fixed to the foot of the presser
foot carrier A Fig. 2 by means of a block b having a hole G into which the said presser
foot carrier of the machine is passed and secured by a set screw.

page_text: As before mentioned, the lateral movement of my presser foot is caused by the
controlling part aforesaid through the rod e Figs. 1 and 3. The arm c¹ fixed to the
lower end of the rod abuts under a set screw in the finger d fixed as one part with
a prismatic bar sliding vertically in the frame of the presser foot carrier, the spring R
being arranged to depress said bar. On the said sliding bar and above the finger dare
pivoted, one behind the other on the same axes two small wheels (one only being
shown in Fig. 4).
On each of these wheels there presses on one side a curved lever g' g' turning upon
the screw G¹, on the other side, another curved lever g g pivoted upon screw G.
The lever when the sliding bar with its wheels is lifted by the arm e' causes the
presser foot to be pressed down on the cloth, the other lever ", causes a longitudinal
movement of the presser foot and corresponding movement of the cloth.
The presser foot s is formed in one part with the piece S Figs. 3 and 4 the end
of which is prolonged behind the apparatus and terminates in a knob & lying in a
cylinder in the frame E in the bottom of which cylinder is a spiral spring
tending to push forward the presser foot while permitting the latter to move freely
up and down. The curved lever g which causes the front end of this presser foot
piece to be depressed does not operate directly thereon but presses upon the lever i¹
pivoted at I shown in Fig. 2, and the said lever presses upon the pin T Fig. 4 on
the presser foot piece. At the same time the lever g" operates directly upon this
same pin T and moves the latter forward which combined with the movement given
by the lever g¹ causes the presser foot to press and carry along the cloth. This
latter movement is limited by an abutment adjustable by screw so as to permit
the lever to move in a course, necessary to regulate the stitch. The lever " is
returned by a small plate spring we pressing thereon. The spring y' secured by
screw lifts the bars S and The lever g' falls when the pin 1 no longer holds it
raised.
It is of advantage that the presser foot remain depressed for a moment so that the
needle may pass into the cloth. To attain this result there is arranged on the side
of the frame of the presser foot carrier a spring provided with a tooth N penetrating
into a groove arranged therefor in the frame so as to rest against the sliding bar
When the sliding bar arrives at its highest position which corresponds to the depressing
of the presser foot by the lever g, the tooth N falls into a pit arranged in the side
of the sliding bar and holds the latter. When the arm c moves down it arrives
against a finger fixed to the sliding bar and unlocks the tooth N without difficulty
since the said tooth is hevelled and not square. The sliding bar is then free to move
downward by the action of its spring R.
m is the stationary presser foot which is fixed to the aforesaid movable presser foot
carrier. A passage
is provided in this stationary presser foot for the cord or other
like material destined to line the button hole. When using this attachment or
mechanism for sewing button hole edging there is provided also a device by which
the needle may be guided when desired exactly into the slit of the button hole. This
device consists of a rod n' which I have called a needle guard fixed by a set screw pl
to the bottom of the axis of the presser foot carrier and regulated by set screw b', the
shape of the end of this rod is shown respectively in plan and elevation by Figs. K
and K. The end of the needle descends vertically into the hole of the guard and
consequently into the slit of the buttonhole in which the lower end of the guard remains
engaged during the sewing of the button hole.
To set out of action the movable presser foot or feed of the sewing machine whilst
operating my presser foot and feed I fix on the table of the machine a cover plate B
Fig. 1 having only a hole for passage of the needle.
As an attachment I have shown this apparatus adapted to a
::
Howe machine but
it is equally well adaptable to a sewing machine of any other system by changing
simply the mode of attachment for example adapting my apparatus to a "Singer
machine in place of causing the rod / to he moved upward by the needle carrier W
itself this is done in the Singer machine by the oscillating needle bar. Also by rapidity
of action of these machines the spring in the screw cap would not be sufficient to

page_text: depress the rod f I cause the said needle bar to engage both over and under the
plate or equivalent off set on the bar f.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is.
In a sewing machine or separable part thereof.
1. The combination of two parts the one part containing mechanism whereby a
reciprocating longitudinal movement a lateral alternate movement are obtained and
the other part containing devices adapted to be operated by said movement for
pressing, laterally moving, and longitudinally feeding the cloth for the purposes set
forth.
2. The rod in combination with the sliding plate and adapted to be operated by
the needle arms or holder substantially as set forth.
3. The combination with a longitudinally movable sliding plate of a rocking pawl
thereon adapted to form an inclined plane for deflecting a pin and deriving an alternate
oscillating movement substantially as set forth.
4. The combination with a rocking pawl moving as described of a pivoted plate
having a pin adapted to be operated by said pawl in the manner and for the purpose
set forth.
5. The combination with a pivoted oscillating plate having a longitudinal slot therein
of a second pivoted oscillating plate having a similar slot and placed above the first
plate so that the slots are between the respective pivots of the plates and an adjustable
pin engaging in said slots for the purpose set forth.
6. The combination of an oscillating plate adapted to be operated as set forth
having two recesses in the end thereof with a removable bolt adapted to lie in said
recess and mechanism substantially as described for removal and insertion of said
bolt.
7. The combination with an alternately reciprocated plate, of a frame laterally
movable thereby, a rod connecting said plate and frame substantially as set forth and
a presser feed movable in the plane of said frame.
8. The combination with a presser feed of a pit, a spiral spring in said pit a bar
carrying said feed and having a rearward extension engaging in said pit so as to be
movable substantially as set forth.
9. The combination of a longitudinally sliding bar, wheels on said bar, levers
adapted to be operated thereby for the movement of the pressure-feed, a lateral finger
on said bar and means for reciprocating said bar longitudinally substantially as set
forth.
10. The combination of a longitudinally movable bar operating the pressure feed
with a bevelled tooth and a spring operating same in the manner and for the purpose
set forth.
11. In a button-hole sewing machine or attachment a laterally movable finger
engaging in the slit of the button hole and guiding the same under the needle for the
purpose set forth.
12. The combination of the attachment herein containing the apparatus described
with a plate for covering the usual presser feed of a sewing machino, said plate having
a perforation for passage of the needle.
1000