Improvements in Looms for the Production of Velvets, Plushes, and other Out Pile and Fancy Fabrios.
Year: 1894

page_text: Date of Application, 13th Jan., 1894
Complete Specification Left, 13th Nov., 1894-Accepted, 29th Dec., 1894
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Looms for the Production of Velvets, Plushes, and
other Out Pile and Fancy Fabrios.
We JOHN CLOUGH of Grove Mills, Keighley, in the County of York, Spinner
and Manufacturer and JOHN PARK, of 16 East View Terrace, Skipton, in the
same county, Designer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as
follows:-
This invention has reference to improvements in looms for weaving velvets,
plushes, and other cut pile and fancy fabrics, such as are produced by what is
known as weft pile weaving.
Hitherto in the manufacture of such goods the method generally adopted has
been to weave the cloth in an ordinary power loom, employing a sufficient number
of shafts to produce the necessary floats to produce the length of pile desired and
this cloth is woven in such a manner as to leave what are called races and these
admit of the introduction of a knife which by a process known as velvet cutting
sever the loops and produce the pile. This method, however, is both restricted as
to the range of variety which it admits of being introduced in manufacture and very
expensive in use.
In order to obviate these inconveniences and to avoid other objections we have
recourse to a novel method of weaving combining therewith a cutting operation
effected simultaneously.
In carrying our invention into practical effect we either employ a reed of special
construction in front of the ordinary reed, or we dispense with the ordinary reed
altogether. This specially constructed reed is so arranged that it can be attached
to the healds or harness of the jacquard, and in such a manner that each blade of
the reed can be attached to the healds or harness separately, and so that if desired
each may be operated at will. This facility of separate operation enables the
surface of the cloth to be traversed with design to the extent of the jacquard
employed.
In order that the nature of the invention may be the more clearly understood we
will describe more in detail one application of the invention without, however,
confining ourselves to the particular arrangement of the parts set forth. The
healds for use in weaving the back or ground of the cloth or fabric are constructed
and operated much as usual. The reed, or the new extra reed, as the case may be,
is arranged with its dents or blades hinged, say, at the bottom and each may be
separately capable of being operated by reason of each blade being connected to a
cord of the Jacquard harness.
The selected blades of the reed are by the operation of the jacquard drawn out
of their normal position and a space is left between the blades that remained at rest
and those drawn out of the line through which the shuttle is caused to pass and in
so passing the shuttle lays its thread of weft, or "shoot" and then as the reed is
caused to beat up, it follows that those blades of the reed which have been drawn
out have the shoot of weft behind them, whilst the blades that remained in their
normal relation have the shoot of weft before them and the impact at the beat up
causes the weft thus intervening to be cut wherever the drawn out blades in their
return come in contact with it.
The cords connected to the blades of the reed pass therefrom over a rod or other

page_text: suitable support carried by the rock supports for the reed and down to rock
arms or levers below which are also connected to and operated by the Jacquard
harness.
Springs or weights aid the operation of the parts, and suitable guiding parts
control their proper relative motions.
This method of weaving and construction of parts for effecting the same enables
us to produce a greatly increased range or variety of effects in the manufacture of
cut pile fabrics or other fancy fabrics wherein the cutting away of the weft in aid
of the production of pattern in the cloth is utilized.
Dated the 13th day of January 1394.
WM. BROOKES & SON,
55 & 56, Chancery Lane, London, Agents for the Applicants.
COMPLETE ȘIECIFICATION.
Improvements in Looms for the Production of Velvets, Plushes, and
other Cut Pile and Fancy Fabrics.
We JOHN CLOUGH, of Grove Mills, Keighley, in the County of York, Spinner
and Manufacturer and JOHN PARK, of 16 East View Terrace, Skipton, in the
same county, Designer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in
what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement:—
This invention has reference to improvements in looms for weaving and the
production of velvets, plushes, and other cut pile and fancy fabrics, such as are
produced by what is known as weft pile weaving.
Hitherto in the manufacture of such goods the method generally adopted has
been to weave the cloth in an ordinary power loom, employing a sufficient number
of shafts to produce the necessary floats to produce the length of pile desired and
this cloth is woven in such a manner as to leave what are called races and these
admit of the introduction of a knife which by a process known as velvet cutting
severs the loops and produces the pile. This method however is both restricted as
to the range of variety which it admits of being introduced in manufacture and very
expensive in use.
In order to obviate these inconveniences and to avoid other objections we have
recourse to a novel method of weaving combining therewith a cutting operation
effected simultaneously.
In carrying our invention into practical effect we either employ a reed of special
construction in front of the ordinary reed, or we dispense with the ordinary reed
altogether. This specially constructed reed is so arranged that it can be attached
to the healds or harness of the jacquard, and in such a manner that each blade of
the reed can be attached to the healds or harness separately, and so that if desired
each may be operated at will.
This facility of separate operation enables the surface of the cloth to be traversed
with design to the extent of the jacquard employed.
In order that the nature of the invention may be the more clearly understood we
will describe more in detail one application of the invention without however
confining ourselves to the particular arrangement of the parts set forth.

page_text: time of the "pick."
DUCTS WHC saint parts in the position they occupy a mo
Figs. 3 and 4 shew like views to Figs. 1 and 2 respectively but with the ordinary
reed dispensed with. The cutting edges of the blades shewn in Fig. 4 are
somewhat different from those in Fig. 3.
a a¹ represent the harness cords coming from the jacquard to and so as to operate
the cutting blades.
care levers centred at d connected at one end to the cords a and at their opposite
ends to the cords or connections e attached to the blades g of the reed. f is the rod
over which these cords pass to the blades g. o indicates about the line taken by
the shuttle in its passage through the shed formed between the upper and lower
lifts of the warp by the harness."
The healds (or harness) b for use in weaving the back or ground of the cloth or
fabric are constructed and operated much as usual. The blades or the new extra
reed g as the case may be, is arranged with its dents or blades hinged, say at the
bottom g' and each may be separately capable of being operated by reason of each
blade being connected to a cord a of the Jacquard harness.
"
The selected blades 9 of the reed are by the operation of the jacquard drawn out
of the normal position (as at g*) and a space is left between the blades that
remained at rest and those drawn out of the line to g* through which the shuttle o
is caused to pass and in so passing the shuttle lays its thread of weft, or "shoot
and then as the reed is caused to beat up, it follows that those blades of the reed
which have been drawn out have the shoot of weft behind them, whilst the blades
that remained in their normal relation have the shoot of weft before them and the
impact at the beat up causes the weft thus intervening to be cut wherever the
drawn out blades in their return come in contact with it.
The cords e connected to the blades of the reed 9 pass therefrom over the rod f
or other suitable support carried by the rock supports for the reed and down to rock
arms or levers c below, which are also connected to and operated by the Jacquard
harness as already stated, t, t¹, t, t, are pins or wires which pass through the reeds
to keep the blades in position; is the hinge plate or hinge reed and is the guide
reed or shuttle race consisting of a series of guides interspaced with the blades of
the reed to keep them laterally in relative position. j is the top horizontal reed or
top guide plate and k is the hand rail. The brush or spring board / is used for the
purpose of holding the blades in position when not in operation; it may be
constructed of hair or suitably strong plush or fibre attached to the hand-rail, the
blades passing through between the bristles, back and forward when being operated.
The ordinary reed m is carried by the "going part" p upon the "sword" n; qis
the front plate of the "going part" connected to the latter by means of the
brackets "S 11. 8, s' indicate the warp of the fabric.
Springs or weights aid the operation of the parts, and suitable guiding parts
control their proper relative motions.
This method of weaving and construction of parts for effecting the same enables
us to produce a greatly increased range or variety of effects in the manufacture of
cut pile fabrics or other fancy fabrics wherein the cutting away of the weft in aid
of the production of pattern in the cloth is utilized.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we
claim is :-
1. The construction arrangement and use in a loom for weaving velvets, plushes
and other cut pile and fancy fabrics, of a reed having its blades hinged and capable
of operation as selected by the jacquard or equivalent pattern surface to form
cutting means for the weft in design in combination with the heald or harness parts
for effecting the weaving of the back or warp of the fabric, all substantially as and
for the purpose set forth.
2. The construction and use of the improved reed with hinged blades controlled

page_text: by the Jacquard harness or equivalent means and parts co-operating therewith to
effect the production of velvets, plushes and other cut pile and fancy fabrics,
substantially as set forth.
Dated the 12th day of November 1894.
WM. BROOKES & SON,
55 & 56, Chancery Lane, London, Agents for the Applicants.