IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINERY, PARTS OF WHICH IMPROVEMENTS ARE APPLICABLE TO ORNAMENTING FABRICS AND COVERING BUTTONS
Year: 1864

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Alfred Vincent Newton, of the Office for Patents,
66, Chancery Lane, in the County of Middlesex, Mechanical Draughts-
man, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINERY, PARTS
OF WHICH IMPROVEMENTS ARE APPLICABLE TO ORNAMENTING FABRICS AND
COVERING BUTTONS."-A communication from abroad by Isaac Merrit
Singer, of New York City, in the United States of America.
Sealed the 14th February 1865, and dated the 8th September 1864..
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Alfred Vincent Newton
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
8th September 1864.
I, ALFRED VINCENT NEWTON, of the Office for Patents, 66, Chancery Lane,
in the County of Middlesex, Mechanical Draughtsman, do hereby declare
the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINERY,
PARTS OF WHICH IMPROVEMENTS ARE APPLICABLE TO ORNAMENTING FABRICS AND
COVERING BUTTONS," to be as follows:-
:
The first part of this Invention relates to machines adapted to the working
of button holes, covering buttons, and covering the edges of cloth, braiding
and ornamenting the same. In the machine for working button holes a
needle having both a vertical and vibrating motion is employed. The vibrating
motion of the needle enables it to descend alternately through and beside the
edge of the cloth. A round needle and presser bar are mounted perpendicular

page_text: and parallel to each other in front of the horizontal bracket arm of the
machine which carries the driving shaft. A vertical reciprocating motion is
given to the needle bar through a pin on a disc attached to the end of the
driving shaft working in the groove of a cam plate attached to the needle bar.
This can plate is extended on one side and forms a socket which encircles
the presser bar, and attached to the upper end of the presser bar is a cap
plate having a socket through which the needle bar slides freely in like
manner. By this means both are prevented from turning on their axes and
an uniform steady motion is obtained. A separate bar is provided for carrying
the needle, which bar or carrier is hinged to the upper end of the needle bar
and passes down in front of it. At its lower end it is cranked at right angles
and passes through a fork at the lower end of the needle bar, and at this
cranked end is the clamp in which the needle is secured. A rocking motion
is communicated to this pendent arm or needle carrier at the proper time by
a lever turning on a fulcrum pin attached to the side of the bracket arm.
The lower end of this lever is forked to embrace the needle carrier, and its
upper end is operated by a cam keyed upon a supplementary shaft carried by
a lug on the bracket arm of the machine. This shaft receives motion through
suitably proportioned spur gear from the main shaft. By having the fulcrumi
of the said lever adjustable the needle carrier and needle may be vibrated to
any desired distance at the proper time, that is, when the point of the needle
has risen above the cloth so as to be ready at the next descent to pass over
its edge. To lock and secure the loops of the needle thread as they are
formed beneath the cloth any of the well-known arrangements of loopers for
producing a chain may be adopted. A rocking arm jointed to the frame and
operated by a cam on the main shaft forms a thread controller to tighten up
the stitches, and proper tension on the thread is obtained by passing the
thread underneath springs bearing against a bar which may be screwed to the
bracket arm at any angle. This bar has a pawl or stop to prevent any of
the thread being drawn back. The needle thread is drawn from a spool by a
hinged lever operated by a cam on the main shaft. The presser bar has a
tenant which enters a slot in the presser foot, and a pin is passed through
both, so that it may be removed and changed with facility.
A modification of this arrangement may be made to cover buttons which.
have a central hole. The table of the machine is fitted with a throat plate
having the requisite holes for allowing of the descent of the needle when its
position laterally is shifted, as already noticed, and also of a slot or slots to
permit of the escape of the thread. This throat plate also carries a central
stud or pin small enough to enter the central hole in the button to be placed

page_text: thereon. The amount of vibration of the upper needle is to be adjusted to
the semi-diameter of the button. The ordinary presser foot is to be changed
for one having a circular form and of less diameter than the button to be
covered. The throat plate is slotted from the central stud pin to the greatest
distance the upper needle is required to vibrate, to allow of the, escape of the
covering thread; the loops of the needle thread are locked by any suitable
looper, as before mentioned, and on the tightening of the stitches the under
part of the button will be covered. The requisite circular feed may be given
by adopting any of those described in the Patent granted to me, bearing date
December 17th, 1863, No. 3181. This part of the Invention also relates to
improvements in gimping, fringing, and embroidering fabrics, which improve-
ments are applicable to the machine for which a Patent was granted to
Edward Clarke, April 21st, 1859, No. 1008. A curved finger fitted with
projections for operating upon the loops formed by detaining hooks (to be
presently noticed) is employed to carry the thread to be attached to the sur-
face of the work in the form of gimp, fringe, or embroidery. This curved
finger rocks upon a stud pin (carried by a bracket from the horizontal arm of
the machine) behind the needles, so that it may be able to vibrate in front
and partially around the needles, of which there may be two or more mounted
in a clamp formed on the end of the needle bar. On both sides of the
needles, and at right angles to the line of feed-detaining books, are suspended
above the work on which the fringe, gimp, or embroidery is to be sewn, in
such position as to receive a loop of thread which is laid thereon by the
rocking finger, and to hold it until secured by the sewing mechanism. The
loop is released from these hooks by the action of the projections on the
rocking finger at its next vibration, and previous to the finger repeating the
operation of laying a loop on the detaining hooks. By adjusting the distance
of the detaining hooks double rows of fringe may be produced, and by
removing one of them, fringe at one edge and gimp at the other edge of the
line of ornamentation may be made. When fringes made in this manner are
required to be cut the detaining hooks are to be made with knife edges on
the outer side, and the projections on the curved finger, instead of lifting the
loops of fringe off the hooks, may be caused to press them up to their curved
and knife edges, by which they will be cut in place of being cast off. The
curved rocking finger is to be operated by a rocking lever actuated by a cam
on the main shaft, or on a supplementary shaft adjacent thereto, and is
intended to lay two threads upon the work between each succeeding stitch.
When the actuating cam is upon a supplementary shaft, one or two threads,
as desired, may be laid, according to the gearing adopted.

page_text: A modification of the above arrangement of mechanism suitable for covering
buttons consists in substituting a throat plate having a projecting curb to
receive the button to be covered instead of a throat plate having a central
stud pin, as before mentioned. The distance between the two needles which
operate simultaneously is to be adjusted so that one may descend through the
central hole of the button and the other past the edge thereof, a portion of the
curb being cut away and slotted for the passage of the needle. The curved
rocking finger and detaining hooks are now to be adjusted to lay a thread
from the centre to the circumference of the button. The simultaneous descent
of the needles secures this thread, by which the upper face of the button will
be covered, and both loops of the needles are locked beneath the button,
In
and its under side covered by the looper instrument before mentioned.
adapting this arrangement for working button holes or the edges of cloth it
will only be necessary to remove the curved finger, detaining hooks, and throat
plate, and to substitute a throat plate with suitable perforations for two needles,
and using any of the various feed arrangements described in the before-named
Patent of December 17th, 1863. For embroidering several needles may be
clamped to the needle bar, which needles, together with the curved finger
and a looper instrument having a thread of its own, will produce au ornament
on both sides of the fabric. This part of the Invention also relates to a new
looping instrument and means of operating the same, and also to the means
whereby an ordinary reciprocating shuttle may be used for locking two or
more needle loops. Either of these arrangements is applicable to the
machines described.
This new looping instrument is a round bar having a barbed point, and at
It is mounted in
about the middle of its length a helical groove is cut in it.
brackets from the under side of the table of the machine, and is traversed
back and forth horizontally and at right angles to the line of feed by an
excentric, or by a crank and connecting rod from the cam shaft. Through
one of the brackets a screw pin is passed, and entering into the groove it
will cause the looper partially to revolve during its traverse, and present the
barb in a position to catch the needle thread (that is, it will be turned away
from the needle), and at another time to pass through the needle loop with
the barb turned to the upper side of the rod. When it is to be used for
looping together a single thread it is caused to advance through the first loop
of the needle thread with its barb turned to the upper side of the rod, and on
returning the looper is partially revolved, so as to turn the barb to that side
of the rod opposite and away from the vertical needle, by which means the
loop of the needle thread will be caught and held during the further return

page_text: motion and drawn sideways. A friction pad of cloth bearing on the stem of
the instrument will assist in detaining the loop on the shank as it advances to
seize and draw back the next loop; the tightening of the stitch will cause the
first formed loop to be drawn from the shank, and the position of the barbed
point will allow it to slip over the one now held there. When it is desired to
use a second or under thread it will be only necessary to give a longer traverse
to the instrument and present the under thread to it in a suitable position by
means of guides.
In order to pass an ordinary reciprocating shuttle through two or more
loops it is necessary that the throw be proportionably increased, and that the
opening between the back of the shuttle and the driver be made positive at
one part of the throw. This is effected in the following manner :-The
shuttle driver, which is of the ordinary form, carries a short lever or latch
turning upon a stud pin. One end of this lever takes into a notch in the
body of the shuttle, its other end is acted upon by an incline and a stop in
the shuttle race. As the shuttle passes through the loops the point of the
lover will present no obstruction to the loops, but when its opposite end
strikes the incline in the race the point is thrown forward and holds the
shuttle up against the forward end of the driver, leaving a clear space between
the back of the shuttle and the driver for the escape of the loops. The lever
may be returned to its normal position by a spring or by striking against a
stop on the return of the shuttle driver.
This part of the Invention relates, lastly, to an improvedl form of throat
plate applicable to machines in which button holes, eyelets, and short curves
are to be turned, and consists in forming on the upper surface of the throat
plate annular projections, V-shaped, in cross section, around the hole through
which the upper needle vibrates. Two or more of these rings may bu
arranged in concentric circles. This portion of the throat plate may be made
separate and attached to the ordinary throat plate by a screw. It may also
bo double-ended with concentric projections of varying size, so that one end
or the other may be adjusted beneath the needle and used according to the
description of work to be performed.
The second part of the Invention relates to improvements in the oscillating
shuttle machine, for which a Patent was granted to the present applicant,
dated December 17th, 1863, which improvements relate more particularly to
the shuttle and its mechanism. The oscillating shuttle is of the same general
form as described in the Specification of the above-named Patent, but its
point lies in the same plane with that side which is towards the shuttle race.
A flange is formed round the lower part of the shuttle to give it a greater

page_text: bearing surface on the race, and from this side of the shuttle, at its centre of
motion, a lug projects. This lug serves as a guide for the shuttle thread,
which by this means will be drawn from the shuttle and held at such an angle
as will prevent the possibility of the point of the shuttle striking it. The
shuttle race is to be cut through at its centre and slotted up to its circum-
ference immediately beneath the needle to receive this thread carrier and to
give room for the play of its thread. In order to hold the shuttle up to the
shuttle race more steadily when its point is entering the loop of the needle, a
supplementary spring is attached to the casting in which the race is formed,
in such position that it shall operate on the spring that is attached to the
shuttle driver during that part of the oscillation previous to the point of the
shuttle entering the loop of the needle thread. To obtain a better and more
variable tension than heretofore upon the shuttle thread, and to retain the
bobbin in the shuttle when the shuttle is to be removed from the machine, a
packing of paper or cloth is to be interposed between the bobbin and the
interior of the shuttle. Around the outer edge of the cavity in which the
bobbin is placed a groove is formed, in which an annular spring is placed to
retain it in position and assist by its friction in giving the requisite tension
to the thread. The two projecting lugs of the shuttle driver are to be covered
with leather and the shuttle supported in position in the race on the top end
of a latch jointed at its lower end to the race. Pins screwed in the face of
the race determine the distance it is allowed to vibrate as the shuttle oscillates.
from side to side, so that when the shuttle has been thrown over on one side
in passing through the loop of the needle thread the latch will be thrown over
the central line of the race and against one of the pins, thereby lowering the
shuttle in the race and allowing a sufficient play of the shuttle for the loop of
the needle thread to pass the supporting point of the shuttle with only the
friction due to its weight. A spring is provided to assist in the formation of
the needle loop, and is so placed that the needle in descending shall pass free
of its upper end (which is to be covered with leather), and in ascending to
form the loop. This spring bears lightly against the stem of the needle,
so that the whole of the loop formed may be thrown on one side of the
needle..
The third part of the Invention consists in an arrangement of mechanism
for regulating automatically the direction of that description of reversing feed
mechanism described in my Patent of 1863 before referred to. A train of
change wheels and pinions is arranged at the back of the machine for
reducing the number of revolutions of the driving shaft, the first pinion of this
train is keyed on to the driving shaft, the others are carried on stud axles

page_text: from a bracket. The last wheel of the train has screwed on its outer face an
annular flange, the edge of which projects at right angles to the face of the
wheel and is cut to a pattern. On this edge bears the upper end of a vertical
lever pivotted to the frame, while its lower end passes into a slot in the hand
lever, by which the guiding disc of this class of feed machines is governed or
reversed. The regular or irregular forms of the pattern will be thus trans-
mitted by the vertical lever to the disc, and by this disc the angle and direction
of the feed to be given to the feed bar is determined.
The fourth part of the Invention relates to improvements applicable to that
class of machines known as Wheeler and Wilson sewing machines, and con-
sists in driving the shaft which carries the rotating shuttle by gearing on a
cam shaft, below which shaft is the main driving shaft of the machine. By
this arrangement the machine may be made to finish each stitch as soon as it
is taken, and great facilities are given for applying the reversing feed
mechanism described in the Patent of December 17th, 1863, above referred
to, as it can be actuated from this separate cam shaft without difficulty.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Alfred Vincent Newton in the Great Seal Patent Office on
the 8th March 1865.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, ALFRED
VINCENT NEWTON, of the Office for Patents, 66, Chancery Lane, in the County
of Middlesex, Mechanical Draughtsman, send greeting..
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Eighth day of September, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and sixty-four, in the twenty-eighth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the
said Alfred Vincent Newton, Her special license that I, the said Alfred
Vincent Newton, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as
I, the said Alfred Vincent Newton, my executors, administrators, and assigns,
should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all
times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully
might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention
for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINERY, PARTS OF WHICH IMPROVEMENTS ARE
ALSO APPLICABLE TO ORNAMENTING FABRICS AND COVERING BUTTONS," being a com-
munication from abroad by Isaac Merritt Singer, of New York, upon the con-

page_text: dition (amongst others) that I, the said Alfred Vincent Newton, by an
instrument in writing under my hand and seal, should particularly describe
and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same
was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent
Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the
said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Alfred Vincent Newton, do bereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is
to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement, reference being had to the Drawings hereunto annexed,
and to the letters and figures marked thereon (that is to say) :-
=
This Invention relates, firstly, to improved machinery applicable to the
working of button holes, to covering buttons, and ornamenting cloth.
In the accompanying Drawings, Fig. 1, Sheet I., is a side elevation of an
improved arrangement of machinery, applicable chiefly for sewing button
holes; Fig. 2 is a front or end view; Fig. 3 is a plan view, looking down
from above; and Fig. 4 is a plan view of the machine inverted, shewing the
arrangement of parts beneath the table. The other views will be referred to
hereafter.
.
In this machine a needle having both a vertical and a vibrating motion is
employed. The vibrating motion of the needle enables it in its descent
alternately to pierce the cloth and to strike beside the edge of the cloth, or
into the slit cut to form the button hole. By this means the needle thread
is laid over the edge of the hole, and the loops are secured by a looper, as will
be hereafter explained. A is the main driving shaft of the machine, mounted
in bearings in the bracket arm B, and carrying at its rear end a driving
pulley and fly wheel. Keyed to the forward end of the shaft A is a disc A¹,
shewn by dots in Fig. 1, and more plainly in Fig. 2. This disc carries an
excentric stud, on which is fitted a bowle or roller that works in a slot cut in
a cam or cross plate C. This cam plate is fixed to and carried by the needle
bar D, which works as usual in guides carried by the bracket arm B. Jointed
to the upper end of this bar D is a pendent arm D¹, to the lower end of which
the needle is attached, and it is through this pendent arm D¹ that the
vibrating motion above noticed is imparted to the needle. The cam plate C
is extended on one side, and forms a socket which encircles the presser bar E,
as shewn best in the detached views, Figures 5, which shew also in side and
edge views the disc A', carrying the bowle for working the needle bar.
Attached to the upper end of the presser bar E is a cap plate E', having a
socket through which the needle bar D slides freely. By means of these cam

page_text: and cap plates both the needle bar and presser bar, although made round, are
prevented from turning on their axes, and an uniform steady motion is
obtained. The arm D¹, which carries the needle, passes down in front of the
needle bar D, and at its lower end it is cranked at right angles, and passes
through a fork at the lower end of the bar D, and it is to this cranked end
that the needle is secured by a clamp attachment. A rocking motion is com-
municated to the pendent arm or needle carrier at the proper time by a
lever D, which turns on a fulcrum pin attached to a saddle piece on the side
of the bracket arm B. The lower end of this lever D is forked to embrace
the needle carrier D', and its upper end is operated by a face cam D³ keyed
upon a supplementary shaft D*, carried by the saddle piece on the bracket
arm of the machine. This shaft receives rotary motion through suitably
proportioned spur gear D³ from the main shaft A. The amount of rocking
motion given by the face cam to the lever D³ is regulated by means of a screw.
which passes through a lug on the side of the rock lever, and bears against
the saddle piece. The return motion of the rock lever is obtained by means
of a coiled spring (Fig. 1), which connects with the lower end of the rock
lever and the saddle piece. By having the lever thus adjustable, the needlo
carrier and needle may be vibrated to any desired distance at the proper time,
that is, when the point of the needle is above the cloth so as to enable it on
its descent alternately to pierce the cloth and to pass by its edge for the
purpose of laying thread over the edge of the fabric, as above èxplained.
In order to lock and secure the loops of the needle thread as they are
formed beneath the cloth, any of the well-known arrangements of looper for
producing the single chain stitch may be adopted.
The simplest form which I propose to use is that shewn in the plan view,
Fig. 4, and in the detached views, Figures 7, 8, and 9, Sheet II. The looper
marked F consists of a round rod of steel, tapered towards one end, and ter-
minating in a hook. This looper works in a horizontal guide affixed to the
under side of the table of the machine, and it receives its traverse motion by
being coupled by a rod F¹ to a crank F on the vertical shaft G, which is
driven by bevil gear from the shaft A. Beneath the looper is a friction pad H,
its object being to retain the loop which the looper in its back movement has
drawn out and laid upon it, and thus to prevent the looper on its return
motion from carrying back the loop. The action of the looper and pad will
be better understood by reference to Figures 10, 11, 12, and 13, which show
the looper slightly modified to enable it to turn on its axis. By the looper
thus turning it presents a flattened side to the needle when entering the loop,
and on its back motion it ensures the loop being caught by the hook. This

page_text: axial movement of the looper during its traverse is effected by connnecting it
by a swivel joint to a cross head Fs (see Fig. 14), which couples it with the
rod F. A twisted longitudinal groove is cut in the cylindrical part of the
looper, and into this groove projects a pin fixed in the guide which supports
the looper. As, therefore, the looper traverses it is turned on its axis by the
fixed pin, and it thus takes the axial position shewn in side and plan views at
Figures 10 and 11 on its advance, and on its return the position shewn in side
and plan views at Figures 12 and 18. Thus having drawn the loop on to the
pad, as shewn at Figures 12 and 13, the looper again advances (moving
through the extended loop) to take hold of a second loop and draw it through
that just formed. To enable it to do this and prevent the looper by its forward
movement from carrying back the opened loop the friction pad is employed,
which having a surface of cloth or other suitable fabric retains the loop until
the next succeeding loop is seized and drawn through the open loop by the
looper. The tension at this time put on the thread by the looper will draw
the first formed loop off the pad, and bring it to tension, and. thus cause it to
form a stitch on the fabric. By a succession of these operations a series of
stitches will be formed along the edge of the fabric, an intermittent forward
motion being given to the fabric when it is clear of the vertical needle.
The feed motion is obtained by the well known arrangement shewn at Fig. 4,
Sheet I. A double cam I on the vertical shaft G operates a rock lever I',
mounted on a swivel plate below the table of the machine, to give the up-and-
down motion and the to-and-fro motion to the roughened surface I³ or feed
plate, which is carried by a rock lever. The to-and-fro motion is limited by
an adjustable bar 13, wedge-shaped at its end, and operated by a hand lever I*.
Figures 15 shew, on an enlarged scale, in plan and edge views, the form of
throat plate which I prefer to use in this machine. It is slotted, to allow of
the needle vibrating, as above explained; and it carries a half-round tubular
guide a, through which the needle strikes at every alternate descent. This
throat plate is shewn in position at Fig. 16, but in place of it a throat plate
without the improvement applied thereto (shewn at Figs. 17) may be used.
The guide, however, facilitates the manipulation of the fabric under
operation.
To facilitate the turning of the cloth, when using ornamental work in this
or in other sewing machines, the throat plate may be fitted with a circular
projection, as shewn at Figures 18, for the cloth to rest upon. A swivel strap b,
secured by a screw to the throat plate, carries at one end a circular rib or
projection, which, when in position, is concentric with the stem of the depressed
needle, and at its other end this swivel strap 6 carries concentric ribs, which

page_text: present à greater surface for the cloth to rest on. Either end of this strap
may at pleasure be brought under the needle, according to whether a greater
or less bearing surface is required for the cloth. It will be obvious that when
the presser foot is holding the cloth upon this raised surface, the cloth may be
turned round with the same precision as if the stem of the needle were the
axis of motion for the cloth, and thus good rounding of a button hole or the
turning of curves in ordinary work may be greatly facilitated. This improve-
ment, it will be obvious, is equally applicable to ordinary sewing machines
used for embroidering. In that case the form of throat plate shewn at
Figures 19 may be used.
For controlling the thread and tightening up the stitches the rocking arm K,
Fig. 1, is employed. This rocking arm K is jointed to the bracket arm, and
operated by a cam on the main shaft A. It has an eye at its extremity,
through which the thread from the bobbin passes. In order to maintain the
thread at a proper tension it is passed under springs L, L, Fig. 3, which bear
against the vertical flange of a fixed plate L', secured to the bracket arm.
These springs are carried by a hinged piece L³, which the plate L' forms
a kind of trough. The hinged plate L³ may be set up so as to increase or
diminish the force of the springs as required. The thread passes from the
bobbin through an eye in the near end of the plate L'; it is then laid under
the ends of the springs, and passes out of the trough through an eye in the.
other end of the plate L' to the eye of the rocking arm K, whence it passės,
as shewn in the Drawings, to the needle. Jointed to the fixed plate is a
pawl or stop L³, for preventing any of the thread being drawn back. The
needle thread is drawn from a spool by a hinged lever operated by a cam on
the main shaft. This arrangement is shewn at Fig. 6, Sheet I., where M is
the rocking arm, having an eye at its free end, through which the thread from
the bobin passes. The thread then passes through a fixed eye on the bracket
arm. At every vibration, therefore, of the arm M a uniform amount of thread
will be drawn off the bobbin. The presser bar has a tenon, which enters a
slot in the presser foot, and a pin is passed through both, to secure them
together. This arrangement admits of the foot being removed and changed
with facility. The above described machine serves also for the covering of
buttons when a throat plate of the construction shewn in plan and longitudinal
section at Figures 20, Sheet II., is employed. It is formed with a circular
recess to receive the disc to be covered, which disc must have a central hole,
to allow of the vibrating needle striking through it and through the centre of
the throat plate. A radial cut is made from this hole to the outside of the
recess, to allow of the play of the thread below the button. The usual slot is
.

page_text: also cut in the throat plate, to enable the roughened feed plate to act upon
the work. In this case the work being confined in the circular recess, it will
be caused to move round on its centre, and thus receive radial lines of covered
thread. The action of the looper will be the same as that above explained.
In Sheet III. an improved arrangement of machinery is shewn for
gimping, fringing, and embroidering fabrics. The improvement consists in
adapting to the singer sewing machine, when provided with two or more
needles, a curved finger for laying loops of silk thread or cord over a detaining
hook or hooks for the purpose of attaching the thread to the work in the
form of gimp, fringe, or embroidery. This curved finger rocks upon a stud
pin (carried by a bracket from the horizontal arm of the machine) behind
the needles, so that it may be able to vibrate in front and partially around
the needles, which are mounted in a clamp formed on the end of the needle
bar. On both sides of the needles and at right angles to the line of feed
detaining hooks are suspended above the work on which the fringe, gimp, or
embroidery is to be sewn in such position as to receive a loop of thread which
is laid thereon by the rocking finger, and to hold it until secured by the
sewing mechanism.
In the accompanying Drawing, Fig. 1 is a side elevation of the improved
machine; Fig. 2 is a front elevation; Figures 3 and 4 are plan views of the
shuttle race shewing the construction and operation of an improved shuttle
driver, and Fig. 5 is a plan view of a curved finger and detaining hooks.
This machine is intended to ornament fabrics with gimp or fringe similar to
that shewn in the Diagrams, Figures 6 and 7, the one being a single and the
other a double fringe. As most of the parts of this machine are familiar to
all persons practically acquainted with sewing machines I will only briefly
refer to such parts in order to connect them with the improvements.
A is the bracket arm carrying at its extremity the needle bar B and presser
bar C. The needle bar is fitted with two needles, but it may receive three or
more needles as required. The stems fit into parallel grooves formed for
them in the lower end of the bar, and they are held firmly in position by
means of a clamping piece 6 secured to the bar by tightening screws. Motion
is given to the needle bar by a bowle carried by a disc on the end of the
driving shaft D, which has its bearings in the bracket arm, and carries a fly
wheel and driving pulley as usual. By means of bevil geȧr motion is given to
a vertical shaft D', which transmits a reciprocating motion through a crank
and connecting rod as usual, and therefore not shewn in the Drawing, to the
shuttle driver E and also to the feed plate. F is the curved vibrating finger
for laying the gimp or fringe thread on the fabric. It is mounted on the

page_text: prolonged boss or axle of a pinion F, (see Fig. 5,) which works in a box f¹
secured to the bracket arm A. This box f¹ forms also a guide for a tra-
versing rack f, which gears into and drives the pinion f alternately in
opposite directions, which motion being given to the finger F causes it to lay
the thread over the detaining hooks as above mentioned. The traverse motion
of the rack f is communicated thereto by a rock lever F', a pin from the upper
end of which rock lever takes into a groove of the cam F. This cam is
mounted on a short axle supported in a bearing at the side of the bracket
arm A, and having at its opposite end a spur wheel, which gears into a spur
pinion on the driving shaft D; G, G', are the detaining hooks held securely
in position by suitable supports attached to the bracket arm or rigid parts
connected therewith. The curved finger F has an eye at its extremity for
the reception of the thread, which it draws from the bobbin H, and it carries
a presser f for pushing the thread off the hook G, and a hooked wire f* for
lifting the thread off the hook G¹; I, I, are the bobbins from which the
needles draw their threads.
Let it now be understood that fringe of the kind indicated in the Diagram,
Fig. 6, is required to be made. For this purpose the detaining hooks are
set as shewn at Fig. 5, and the machine being threaded up as shewn, and the
fabric to receive the fringe being placed on the table of the machine above
the feed plate, and the presser foot let down to press the fabric, and thus
to ensure the proper action of the feed plate, the machine is set in motion.
The curved finger F will now by its reciprocating axial motion lay the fringe
thread over the detaining hooks alternately. After a lap of thread has been
made on, say, the hook G, and the finger has moved forward and carried the
thread past the hook G', the needles will descend and pierce the fabric. In
ascending again they will form loops below the fabric, which loops the shuttle
K will enter, leaving therein a shuttle thread, which will secure the loops of
the needle thread. By this means the fringe thread last stretched over the
fabric will be sewn down and held fast to the face thereof. While this is
proceeding (supposing the machine to be in full action) and before the return
of the finger F to lap a thread around the hook G', the hooked wire f will
lift off from the hook G¹ the lap of thread previously laid on that hook,
and carry it behind the descending needles. The return motion of the finger
will now commence to put a fresh lap on the hook G¹, and immediately the
needles have secured the threads stretched over the fabric the presser f³ will
come into action and disengage the lap of thread brought into contact from
the hook G. The continued traverse of the curved finger will then lap fresh
thread over the books as before; and a like result will be obtained. While,

page_text: however, these movements are proceeding a regular feed motion must be given
to the fabric to allow the stitching down of the threads which lie side by side
upon the fabric to proceed.
When it is required to produce a gimp or single fringe like that shewn at
Fig. 7, the hook G is removed and the gimp thread will then be lapped round
the stem of the outer needle.
In order to form cut fringe in the 'machine, sickle-shaped hooks may be
substituted for the round hooks G, G¹, (similar to that shewn at Fig. 5*,)
which books as the thread is being forced over their ends by the presser f³
and hooked wire f* will sever the threads at the lap.
When two or more needles are used to present loops simultaneously to the
shuttle, it is desirable to provide special means for facilitating the escape of
the needle loops from the tail of the shuttle. For this purpose upon the
shuttle driver E a latch e is mounted; one end of this latch is intended to
take into a notch cut in the shell or back of the shuttle. In the shuttle race
L, Figures 3 and 4, a projection or fillet is provided, against which the
tail of the latch e is intended to strike for the purpose of throwing the other
end of the latch into the notch of the shuttle. By this act the shuttle will be
moved forward slightly in its driver, and thus a free space will be left between
the rear horn of the driver and the back end of the shuttle for the loops to
escape. On the return motion of the driver the latch will strike against a
stop on the shuttle race and be thrown out of contact with the shuttle,
thus leaving the shuttle free in its driver, so that as it enters the fresh loops
they may readily pass over the nose of the shuttle and under the forward horn
of the driver.
.
The second part of this Invention relates to improvements in the oscillating
shuttle machine,, for which a Patent was granted to the present Patentee,
dated December Seventeenth, One thousand eight hundred and sixty-three,
which improvements relate more particularly to the shuttle and its mechanism.
In the Specification of this Patent a novel construction of oscillating shuttle
is described as employed for interlocking the second or shuttle thread with
the needle thread. This shuttle oscillates in a vertical plane, and it consists
of a metal box, having a circular cavity and an opening at its side to receive
a bobbin. A wedge-shaped lateral projection terminating in a hook provides
the means for the shuttle to seize upon and open out the loop of the needle
thread. The shuttle is carried by a disc keyed to a stud axle, and moved
backwards and forwards by means of drivers fixed to the disc. A recipro-
cating axial motion is given to the disc and consequently to the shuttle by
means of the rods connected to a crank on the end of a vertical driving shaft.

page_text: The first improvement in this part of the Invention relates to the oscillating
shuttle and the means for working it. This is illustrated in several views in
Sheet IV. of the accompanying Drawings.
Figures 1 shew the shuttle in side and edge views, the opposite side of the
shuttle is shown at Fig. 2; Fig. 3 shews the bobbinde tached from the shuttle, and
Fig. 4 is a cross section of the shuttle and bobbin enclosed therein; Figures 5
are views of springs for holding the bobbin in the shuttle; Fig. 6 shews in
side view and Fig. 7 in edge view the shuttle in its circular race; Fig. 8 is
another side view showing a change of position of the shuttle; Fig. 9 shows
the race with the shuttle removed therefrom; Fig. 10 shews the race in plan
view, together with the shuttle driver and the springs for keeping the shuttlo
in position; and Fig. 11 shews the shuttle driver detached. In these Figures
it will be seen that the oscillating shuttle a is of the same general form as
described in the Specification of the above-named Patent, but its point lies on
the same plane with that side which is toward the shuttle race.
a²
A flange a¹ is formed round the lower part of the shuttle to increase its
bearing surface against the race, and from this side of the shuttle at or near
its centre of motion a lug a projects; this lug serves as a guide for the shuttle
thread, which by this means will be drawn from the shuttle and held at such
an angle as will prevent the possibility of the point of the needle 6 from
striking it. The shuttle race c is cut through at is centre and slotted up to
its circumference immediately bencath the needle to receive this lug or thread
carrier a, and to give room for the play of its thread. By reference to
Fig. 10 it will be seen that one side of this opening is wedge shaped, this
is to assist in the opening out of the loop as the shuttle is passing into it.
The shuttle is held up to the race by a spring d attached to the shuttle driver
e, as in the before-mentioned arrangement; but in order to hold the shuttle
up to the shuttle race more steadily when its point is entering the loop of the
needle a supplementary spring f is now applied. This spring f is attached to
the casting in which the race is formed, in such a position that it will operato
on the spring & attached to the shuttle driver during that part of the oscil-
Intion previous to the point of the shuttle entering the loop of the needle
thread, and press that spring d into close contact with the shuttle.
To obtain a better and more variable tension than heretofore upon the
shuttlo thread, and to retain the bobbin in the shuttle when the shuttle is to
be removed from the machine, a packing of paper or cloth is interposed
between the bobbin and tho interior of the shuttle, as shewn at Fig. 4.
Around the outer edge of the cavity in which the bobbin is placed a groove is
formed to receive an annular spring, such as is shewn at Figures 5, which

page_text: spring serves to retain the bobbin in position and assist by its friction in
giving the requisite tension to the thread. The two projecting lugs e', e³, of
the shuttle driver should be covered with leather, and the shuttle is supported
in position in the race on the top end of a latch g, jointed loosely at its lower
end to the race; pins screwed in the face of the race determine the distance
this latch is allowed to vibrate as the shuttle oscillates from side to side, so
that when the shuttle has been thrown over on one side in passing through
the loop of the needle thread, the latch will be thrown over the central line
of the race and against one of the pins, thereby lowering the shuttle in the
race and allowing a sufficient play of the shuttle for the loop of the needle
thread to pass the supporting point of the shuttle with only the friction due
to its weight. In order to assist in the formation of the needle loop and
prevent the possibility of a stitch being missed by the shuttle, there is affixed
to the shuttle race a spring h, see Fig. 12. This spring is so arranged that
the needle in descending shall pass free of its upper end (which is to be
covered with leather), but as the needle ascends to form the loop, the spring
will bear lightly against the stem of the needle and cause the loop to bo
formed wholly on the opposite side of the needle stem, as shewn in the
Drawing.
The third part of this Invention consists in an arrangement of mechanism
for regulating automatically the direction of that description of reversing feed
mechanism described in my Patent of One thousand eight hundred and sixty-
three, above referred to. This is shewn in Sheet V., where Fig. 1 is a plan
view of so much of a sewing machine as will explain my improvements;
Fig. 2 is a side elevation of the same, and Fig. 3 is a transverse section taken
in the line 1, 2, of Fig. 2. A, A1, A3, A3, is a train of change wheels and
pinions arranged at the back of the machine for reducing the number of
revolutions of the driving shaft B; the first pinion A of this train is keyed on
to the driving shaft, the others are carried on stud axles from a bracket C
attached to the standard of the machine. The last wheel As of the train has
screwed on its outer face an annular flange (see the detached view, Fig. 4),
the edge of which projects at right angles to the face of the wheel, and is cut
to a pattern. On this edge bears the upper end of a vertical lever D pivotted
to the frame, while its lower end passes into a slot in a coupling bar E, which
connects it with a horizontal rock lever H, having its fulcrum on a stud at
the under side of the table of the machine. Jointed to this rock lever H is a
rack bar I, which gears into teeth on the periphery of a guiding disc K; this
disc is provided with a suitable support, and, its face is slotted through the
diameter of the disc to receive a pin from the feed bar L. Coupled to the

page_text: pin of this bar L by a short link is a transverse bar M, which carries a pin
that takes into a slot of a bar N. A pin projecting from the bar N enters a
cross slot in a disc O, which turns in a socket in the table, and a lug on this
disc allows of its being connected to a hand lever by which the disc is turned
to bring its slot to the required inclination to act upon the pin of the lever N ;
this lever is jointed to a rocking arm P, which has its fulcrum at P¹, and is
acted upon by the cam Q on the vertical shaft, which transmits motion from
the driving shaft B both to the feed and to the other working parts below the
table, as usual in this class of machines. The arrangement for driving the
feed (without the automatic apparatus) admits of the length of feed being
regulated, which is effected by changing the angle of the slot of the disc, and
also of the direction of feed being changed, which is effected by shifting the
direction of the groove in the disc K. The rise and fall of the roughened
surface of the feed bar is produced by means of an inclined arm projecting
from the shuttle driver, but not shewn in the Drawing.
The action of the feed apparatus of my former Patent being now under-
stood, it will be readily seen that by the use of the cam surface of the wheel A³,
(which in its rotation operates on the rock lever D) the direction of the feed
will be constantly changing, and thus a zig-zag or serpentine line of stitching
will be produced.
The last part of the Invention relates to improvements applicable to that
-class of machines known as Wheeler and Wilson sewing machines, and consists
in driving the shaft which carries the rotating shuttle by gearing on a cam
shaft, below which shaft is the main driving shaft of the machine. By this
arrangement, not only is the machine able to finish each stitch as soon as it
is taken, but great facilitics are given for applying the reversing feed mecha-
nism above described, and contained in the Patent of December Seventeenth,
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-three, above referred to, as it can be
actuated from this separate cam shaft without difficulty.
The Figures in Sheet VI. shew the manner of adapting the reversing feed
to the Wheeler and Wilson arrangement of sewing machines. Fig. 1 is a
side elevation of the machine; Fig. 2 is a plan view, a portion of the table
being broken away to shew the parts below, and Fig. 3 is an end elevation.
A is the driving shaft fitted with a driving pulley A*, and carrying the cams
5 for operating the vertical needle, the feed, and the thread controller. A spur
wheel A' transmits motion through a spur pinion A³ to a shaft B, which
carries the rotary shuttle or hook B³, the construction and operation of which
aro well understood. C is the excentric on the shaft A for working the
rocking arm C that carries the needle; D is tho cam for giving the traverse

page_text: motion to the feed; E is the cam for giving the rise and fall to the feed bar E';
and F is the cam for controlling the needle thread. The driving pulley A* and
the excentric C and cams D, E, and F, are all drawn at full size at Figures 4.
The cam D acts upon a rocking arm D', having its fulcrum on a bracket of
the bed plate; to the upper end of this arm a connecting rod D³ is jointed.
This rod is jointed at its other end to a sliding rod D³, which is forked at its
front end to embrace a pin projecting from the under side of the feed bar E',
and impart the required feed motion thereto; this. rod D³ carries a pin which
takes into a slot cut across a disc D' fitted in a circular. recess in the under
side of the table; this disc is adjusted in position by a handle D³ jointed
thereto for the purpose of setting the slot of the disc to the desired angle and
guiding the reciprocating rod D³, and causing it to move laterally, and give
the feed bar a traverse in the direction of its length in either direction.. The
lifting of the feed bar is effected by the cam E acting upon a forked lever E*,
which bears against the under side of the feed bar, and lifts it at the required
moment. For taking up the slack of the thread the arm E' is employed;
this arm has a thread guide at its extremity, and by its reciprocating motion,
which it receives from the cam F through the rock lever F* and conecting
rod F, to which rod the arm F¹ is jointed, it draws up the needle thread as
the needle ascends from the cloth, and assists in tightening the stitch.
Having now set forth the nature of the Invention of "Improvements in
Sewing Machinery, Parts of which Improvements are applicable to Orna-
menting Fabrics and Covering Buttons," and having explained the manner of
carrying the same into effect, I wish it to be understood that under the
above in part recited Letters Patent I claim,-
First, the means above described for forming the overlapping or button-hole
stitch and for covering buttons.
Second, the. improved constructions of throat plate as described with
reference to Sheet II. of the Drawings.
Third, the means above described for supplying the thread to the needle
'at the requisite tension.
Fourth, applying to sewing machines of the rocking-finger arrangement
and detaining hooks, for the purpose above described, and also the use of the
sickle-shaped or cutting detaining hooks for severing the threads as they are
secured to the fabric.
Fifth, the means described for releasing the loops of the needle threads
'from the shuttle.
Sixth, the improvements in the reciprocating shuttle and the construction
of race and mode of supporting the shuttle therein, as above.described. .

page_text: Seventh, the application of the spring for presenting the loop of the needle
thread to the shuttle.
Eighth, the arrangement above described for working reversible feeds
automatically.
Lastly, arranging the Wheeler and Wilson sewing machine as above
described, whereby the reversible feed is made applicable thereto.
In witness whereof, I, tho said Alfred Vincent Newton, have hereunto.
set my hand and seal, the Eighth day of March, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-five.
Witness,
J. W. MOFFATT,
66, Chancery Lane.
A. V. NEWTON. (L.B.)