IMPROVEMENTS IN PLAIN AND ORNAMENTAL WEAV- ING
Year: 1849

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, EDWIN
HEYWOOD, of Glusburn, in the County of York, Designer to Messrs. Thomas
and Matthew Bairstow, of Sutton, in the same County, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Royal Letters Patent under the Great Seal of the United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland, bearing date at Westminster, the Thirteenth day of
September (One thousand eight hundred and forty-nine), in the thirteenth
year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant
unto me, the said Edwin Heywood, my exors, adñiors, and assigns, Her
especial license, full power, sole privilege and authority, that I, the said
Edwin Heywood, my exors, admors, and assigns, or such others as I, the
said Edwin Heywood, my exors, adiñors, and assigns, should at any time
agree with, and no others, from time to time and at, all times during the
term of years therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exer-
cise, and vend, within England, Wales, and the Town of Berwick-upon-
Tweed, my Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN PLAIN AND ORNAMENTAL WEAV-
ING;" in which said Letters Patent is contained a proviso that I, the said'
Edwin Heywood, shall cause a particular description of the nature of my
said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, by an
instrument in writing under my hand and seal, to be inrolled in Her
Majesty's High Court of Chancery within six calendar months next and
immediately after the date of the said in part recited Letters Patent, as

page_text: in and by the same, reference being thereunto had, will more fully and at
large appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said
Edwin Heywood, do hereby declare that the nature of my said Invention; and
the manner in which the same is to be performed, are fully described and
ascertained in and by the following statement thereof, reference being had to
the Drawings hereunto annexed, and to the figures and letters marked thereon,
that is to say-
My Invention consists,
First, of improvements in the manufacture of plain fabrics of that descrip-
tion known as cross weavings. And,
Secondly, my Invention consists of improvements in ornamental weaving.
And in order that my Invention may be most fully understood and readily
carried into effect, I will proceed to describe the means pursued by me.
DESCRIPTION OF DRAWING A.
. Figure 1 represents so much of a side view of a loom as will enable me
to describe the first part of my Invention.
Figure 2 shows the construction of the healds employed by me. The warp'
is wound on to the warp beam a, and one part passes over the fixed bar b,
And in order to
the other part passes over the vibrating bar or roller c.
keep these parts separate and distinct, I have colored them
with different
colors, though they ordinarily will be used of the same color. One portion of
the shed is at all times kept open by means of a board d fixed or retained
across the loom so as to keep open the shed produced by one portion of the
warp, so that the same warp thread will remain at all times on the same side
of the fabric, and the other portion of the which
'warp
passes over the vibra-
ting beam or roller c is that portion which being acted on by the healds
produces the effect called cross weaving, and the threads or yarns of the said
portion of the warp which passes over the beam or roller c alternately pass
above and below the board d, and then through the healds, the threads or
yarns of the other portion of the warp to pass alternately under and over the
board, but do not pass through eyes in healds, they therefore remain in the
same positions, part above and part below the weft, thrown in from time to
time. The most convenient mode of mounting the beam or roller c, so that
it may vibrate or move to and fro, by is means of a lever e at each end, moving
on a point or fulcrum at f, supported at the ends of the fixed beam or bar b.
The levers e, e, are connected means of connecting rods i to the swords 9, 9,
which move on axes at their lower ends, so that, as the swords move to and

page_text: fro, the beam or roller c will be caused to vibrate, tightening that portion of
the warp when the beat-up takes place, and slackening that portion of the
warp when the healds are in action. To produce the crossing of this portion of
the warp with respect to the other portion of the warp, in entering the warp
into the reed, two of the yarns or threads which pass above the board & pass.
through the same dent or space in the reed, then two of the warp. threads or
yarns, which pass below the board d. pass through the next dent or space in
the reed, and so on; and in each case one of such two threads or yarns.
comes over the fixed beam, the other thread or yarn in the same dent or space
comes over the moveable beam, and as those threads which pass over the
fixed beam b do not pass through healds, they will remain open as a shed;
those threads or yarns, however, which pass over the moving beam pass
through healds, and are capable of being moved first on one side and then on
the other of the threads which work with them in the same dents or spaces in
the reed.
I have not thought it necessary to shew the remainder of the parts of a
loom, whether for working by power or by hand; and although this part of
my Invention only goes to the wearing of plain fabrics, yet means. of producing
ornaments or ornamental weaving may be added thereto, in which cases this
part of my Invention would only apply to the weaving of the plain parts of
such fabrics; and I would state that, although I believe the arrangements of
parts above given are the best for the purpose of this part of my Invention.
I do not confine myself thereto, so long as the peculiar character of these
improvements be retained, whereby the warp is kept open by a board, or
means of keeping the warp stationary, and the warp is divided by two beams,
allowing of one to slacken and tighten the warp, together with the arrange-
ment of healds herein explained, for causing the crossing of the warp threads.
or yarns when slack.
I will now describe the second part of my Invention.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS B.
Figure 1 is the ground plan of the machine, which is attached to the
handtrec A, A, by two screws A', A', passing through the slot holes in the.
frame B, B, as shewn in Figures 1 and 4, this frame carrying, the slides and.
other parts of the machine. C, C, are the guides secured to the frame B, B...
by the screws D, D, passing through the slot holes E, E, into the frame B, B
G, G, G, are three plates fixed to the frame B by screws, forming a dovetail:
for the purpose of keeping the centre slide bar II in its place. The upright
spindles or guide rods I, I, passing through two brackets I, I', are ade use

page_text: of to maintain the parallelism of the top and bottom bars J, J, as they rise
and fall, which they do by means of the friction pulleys K, K, working in the
slide slots or guides C, C, in their horizontal motion along with the centre
slide bar H. The top and bottoin bars J, J, as will be seen by reference to
Figures 2 and 3, are made to work up and down by means of the guides C, C;
the top and bottom bars J, J, are connected by the two levers J', J', and links
J, J, which links are attached by pin joints at J³, J³, so that when the top
bar J, J, comes down, as in Figure 2, the bottom bar J, J, will be raised,
the pins O, O, being fixed into the bottom bar J, will also be raised prepara-
tory to the forward motion of the shuttles N, N, and when the top guide C, C,
raise the top bar J, J,. together with the pins L; L, as shewn in Figure 3,
these pins L, L, in top bar will leave the shuttles, and the pins O, O, in the
bottom bar J, J, will descend and take the shuttles; thus will the shuttles N, N,
pass to and fro through the warp threads, which they could not do if either
pin O or L were to remain in the shuttles N, N, during the whole distance of
their traverse between the boxes M, M, which boxes are fastened to the
under side of the frame B, B, as shewn in Figures 1, 2, 3, and 4. The centre
slide bar H moves to and fro, carrying with it the top and bottom bars J, J,
they being connected thereto by screws or studs passing through the centres of
the two levers J', J', and also by the spindles I, I. The slide bar H is moved
horizontally to and fro by the rod P, which is attached to the centre slide bar
H by the stud P, P, as shewn in Figures 1 and 4. The rod P being toothed
works in gear with the teeth at the top of the lever Q when the figuring is
taking place; but the rod P is held up by a roller R* carried by the
lever R³, acted upon by a cord from the Jacquard when the shuttle which
weaves the plain portion of the fabric is alone required to work, and
the rod P is set at liberty by a string from the Jacquard, lifting the lever
R', a pin upon which removes the spring catch R, which releases the lever
R³, carrying the roller.R", there being a spring R to raise the lever R³ and
roller R*, as shewn. The lever Q is fixed to the rocking tree R, or axis of
the swords, and receives motion thereby. The lever Q, in addition to the
Vibrating motion given to it by the rocking tree or axis R, receives another
motion in connection with the lever or rod S, which traverses up and down
the slot in the guide plate S', by means of the eccentric S² on the picking
axis S3 by a connecting rod T attached to the lever W. At the end of this
lever W there is an universal joint W', as shewn in Figures 5 and 6, by which
means this lever W is attached to the connecting rod W2, as shewn in Figure
6: There is also another universal joint W3 at the top of the same rod W,
in connection with the rod or lever S, as shewn in Figure 5. The two

page_text: universal joints W₁, W³, being thus employed, admit of the lever or rod S
being moved in the direction required for working the sliding machine carrying
the shuttles for ornamenting, and which it does by actuating the rod P.
Figure 7 is a bird's-eye view, shewing the relative positions of the
shuttles Z. and N, N, when passing through their respective sheds in the
warp. Figure 8 is also a bird's-eye view, shewing a flower or figure, which
can be produced by the application of a Jacquard instead of healds supposed
to be used in Figure 7.
I will now describe another arrangement of apparatus for carrying and
actuating a series of shuttles for ornamental weavings.
Figures 9, 10, and 11, shew another arrangement of a machine for carrying
and actuating a series of shuttles. Figure 10 is a front elevation of Figure 9.
Figure 11 is a cross section thereof. Figures 12, 13, and 18, shew the
shuttles employed in this arrangement. A, A, is the hand tree of the loom
on which the machine is retained by means of the guides A', A', which are.
fastened to the hand tree A, and project over the moveable frame B, there
being two slide bars C, C, fixed on the frame B, which works in slots formed
in the guides A', A'. There are friction rollers B, B', placed in the frame B,
as shewn in Figure 9, so that it may the more easily traverse on the hand
tree A, as required: M, M, are the shuttle boxes, which are fixed to the
under side of the frame B by means of screws (as shewn in Figure 11).
N, N, are the shuttles (shewn full size in Figures 12, 13, and 18). N¹ is the
bobbin. N is a spring upon a wire brake N³, for the purpose of regulating
the drag of the yarn, the brake being fixed in the shuttle by means of a pin
passing through. The shuttles are moved from one shuttle box or bearer
to another by means of the working bars J, J, J, J, to which are attached
the pins L, O. These pins enter the shuttles alternately in the passage of
the shuttles from one shuttle bearer or box to the other, the alternate
motion of the pins being obtained by the rising and falling of the bars J, J,
which is caused by the bent bars or elevators G, G, passing between the friction
rollers K, K. These friction rollers are attached to the bracket D, as shewn
in Figures 9, 10, and 11. These brackets are fixed to the top of frame B.
On the bottom of the plates D are attached the brasses D', supporting the
sliding bar II, which bar H carries the bars J, J, by means of the pins I, I.
The pins L, O, which move the shuttles pass through the slide bar H, as
shewn in Figure 15. The slide bar II receives its motion from the pulley II..
to which it is connected by means of a strap. This pulley is attached to the
axis working in the under bearings I fixed on the frame B, shown in
Figure. 9. On the other end of the axis of the pulley. E is fixed, another:

page_text: pulley H, which has motion coinmunicated to it by a strap from the loom.
X is a stud pin (seen in Figures 9 and 10) fixed to the frame B, and by
which motion is obtained to the machine from the end of the lever Y, as
hereafter explained.
Figures 14, 15, 16, and 17, show parts of the machine separately.
Figure 16 shows the ground plan of the slide bar H, with holes for
pins L, O, to pass through for moving the shuttles.
Figures 19, 20, 21, and 22, shew the double action of the Jacquard appas
ratus for simultaneously opening two sheds, one for the passage of the ordinary
shuttle, and the other for the ornamenting shuttles. a, a, in Figures 19, 20,
and 22 shews the lifting board, which board raises the top shed of the
warps, that is, the one for the passage of the ornamenting shuttles b.
Figure 19 shews the knot on the cord. At the other end of the same cord
is an eye c, which therefore raises the warp thread as shewn in this Figure.
d, Figure 19, shews the bottom of the ordinary Jacquard apparatus, and the
top of the additional one required for producing the double shed e, e..
Figures 19, 20, and 22 shew the framework for supporting the Jacquard
cylinder f. This cylinder carries a number of cards perforated with holes; the
cards which press against the ends of the cross wires f¹, shewn in Figure 22,
push back the cord g into a slot in the board a; the knot on the cord being
raised by the lifting board a, as shewn in Figure 19, effects the lifting of the
top shed h. Figure 19 is a rod connecting the two Jacquard cylinder frames
i, c, together, so as to insure their correct action. The lifting board a, shewn
in Figure 20, is raised by means of the lever j. This lever is connected with the
top lever by means of the rod 1, on the upper end of which is a screw and two
nuts placed in such a manner as is to regulate the lift of the lever j. m, m,
Figure 20, are two set screws for adjusting the frame e. Y, Figure 23, is a
lever with a slot at each end, the top slot admitting the stud pin X, herein-before
described, for working the sliding machine, shewn in Figures 9, 10, and 11,
the bottom slot admitting a stud X' attached to the rack bar (11). This bar
is moved by the toothed wheel (10) which wheel is fixed on the shaft or axis 9,
Figure 24. On the other end of this shaft or axis is fixed a wheel 8, which
wheel receives its motion from the top rack bar (7). This bar is moved by
the alternate rising and falling of the weights o; o, with inclined sides, shewn
in Figure 23. These weights receive their rising and falling motion from the
Jacquard apparatus by means of the levers p, p, they being lifted alternately
by the Jacquard. These levers have attached at their ends the cords p', p',
which connect them with the cords p³, p³. The levers p, p, have small weights
tied to them; when one lever p is raised by the Jacquard, the other. by its

page_text: weight descends, and its weight also descends.
The cords p, p, pass over
the pullies p, p, to the catch q. There are two Jacquard apparatus employed,
one (the upper one) for opening the ordinary shed, and the other for opening
the upper shed for the passage of the ornamenting shuttles; and this lowèr:
Jacquard also regulates the position in which the machine shall be, in order
that the ornamenting shuttles shall come opposite the places where the upper
shed is opened. Both the Jacquard barrels beat up at the same time, the
lower Jacquard will select those cords g, g, which are required to be raised
the highest by their board a, there being a knot on each cord g for that
purpose; and in selecting any of the cords 9 the barrel f will also select
and press back the levers 7, which move on an axis r', and they are each
pressed on by a coiled spring, by which arrangement when any of the
levers are selected they will be retained out by the rod 3, which, by its
arms, swing on axes ; the pushing out any of the levers raises the
rod, so that any of the levers r which have been previously selected and.
not again required will be brought back by their springs; the effect of
moving out the levers will be that they will intercept the slide 9, the
nature of which is clearly shewn in the Drawing, and consists of the slide and:
two hinged flaps, which are kept pressed open by springs which will allow the
flaps to fold inwards, but not outwards, so that when the slide q is moved by.
the cords p either way, and there are levers r selected, one of the flaps will be
brought in contact therewith, and thus will the slide q be stopped, and,
according to the position at which such stopping takes place, so will be the
position of the machine; for it should be understood that there two cords
px, px, which are connected to the levers p, p, and they are operated on by
the lower Jacqurd apparatus, so as to lift them from time to time as the
machine requires to be shifted. The effect of lifting one of these cords p*, p*.
will be to allow the weights o to adjust themselves, and the effect of such
adjustment of position of the weights o will be to adjust the position of the
machine carrying the ornamenting shuttles, the picking shaft giving motion
by a bevilled toothed wheel (1) to a bevilled toothed wheel (2) on the same
axis, the cog wheel 2* gives motion to one of the cog wheels (3), (3), which
gear together as shewn. Each of the cog wheels (3) has a crank pin, to
which a connecting rod (4) is attached, the other ends of the connecting rods
being respectively attached to the rocking bars (5), (5), a finger (6), from
cach of which at all times coming against their respective weight o, will
regulate the position of the rack bar (7), because the rocking bars (5), (5),
will at all times be brought into the same position, and they will slide tho
rack bar to or fro, according as the larger or smaller parts of the weights o

page_text: on either side is for the time being in action, which as before explained,
depends on the position in which the levers are from time to time selected.
The movement of the rack bar 7 gives motion to the cog wheel 8 on the
axis (9), and it gives motion by a cog wheel 10 to the rack bar (11), which
in its turn gives motion to the lever y, in order that it may move the machine.
to the correct position.
Having thus described the nature of my Invention, and the manner in
which the same is to be performed, I would have it understood that I do not
confine myself to the details as herein explained, so long as the peculiar
character of any part of my Invention be retained. But what I claim is,―
First, the improvements herein-described in cross weaving. And,
Secondly, I claim the means herein-described of arranging and working
shuttles for ornamental weaving.
And I also claim the so arranging looms that two sheds will be opened,
and the shuttles for ornamental weaving moved simultaneously with the other
shuttle for weaving the fabric.
And I also claim the so applying and adjusting Jacquard machinery, that
the position of the machine (or apparatus carrying the ornamental shuttles)
may be placed correctly for working with the shed opened in the where
ornaments are to be produced.
warp
In witness whereof, I, the said Edwin Heywood, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this First day of March, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and fifty.
Enrolled the Thirteenth day of March, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and fifty.