Improvements in Looms for Terry and Cross Bordered Fabrics.
Year: 1889

page_text: Date of Application, 12th Jan, 1889
Complete Specification Left, 12th Oct., 1889-Accepted, 16th Nov., 1889
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Looms for Terry and Cross Bordered Fabrics.
We BENJAMIN ORMEROD Mill Manager and JOSEPH GALLOWAY Mechanic both in
the employment of Messieurs John Dugdale and Sons Blackburn in the County of
Lancaster do hereby declare the nature of this Invention to be as follows:-
Our invention relates to looms for weaving Turkish towellings, terry, and other
fabrics with or without cross borders.
In weaving terry fabrics we form the terry or loops by actuating the lathe so that
it beats up the weft one two or more picks and then moves a certain distance only
for one two or more picks leaving the pick or picks of weft which form the terry to
he beaten up into the shed by the succeeding movements of the lathe.
We accomplish our object by varying the distance between the crank and lathe
swords which may be effected in any convenient manner.
In one arrangement we connect the front end of each crank arm to an eccentric
preferably mounted and free to turn in bearings on the lathe sword each eccentric is
formed with an arm provided with a slot or holes for the adjustment of a connecting
rod secured above to the arm and below to a lever secured to a rocking shaft which
shaft is caused to oscillate by a tappet secured to a shaft or stud driven from the
ordinary tappet shaft the first named tappet being connected to the rocking shaft by
suitable levers.
The movement of the eccentrics for varying the distance between the cranks and
the lathe is governed by the tappet which may be formed to cause the crank to move
the lathe less than a full stroke say for two picks which will form the terry; the
eccentrics are then moved in the manner described to give the full stroke to the lathe
say for three picks by which the terry weft is beaten up by changing the form of
the tappet any suitable number of picks may be given alternately.
A simple modification would be to form the crank arms in two pieces coupled
together and to a rod the latter being actuated so as to vary the distance between the
crank shaft and lathe at the required time.
When weaving the cross borders on Turkish towelling, terry and other goods we
employ an automatic or other measuring motion to bring the cross border or
handkerchief motion into gear.
In one arrangement we use metal cards and preferably three needles one of which
is connected to the measuring motion by which it is actuated to move a pivoted catch
lever on to a star wheel secured to the card barrel and thereby drive the latter for
weaving the cross border; the next needle acts upon a second lever connected to a
sliding clutch mounted on the tappet shaft this lever moves the clutch out of gear
with the tappets to stop the heaks when it is desired to put one two or any given
number of picks of weft into a single shed; the third needle acts upon a lever which
operates the second lever and stops the healds by means of the clutch while one or two
preferably two picks are put into a single shed. The first and second levers are
raised and lowered by means of a plate corresponding to the knife or grife in a dobby
the plate being lifted by suitable connections from a tappet on the tappet shaft and a
second tappet also on the tappet shaft is preferably employed to move or oscillate the
card barrel.
In this arrangement the heald tappets are loose on their shaft which is driven by
the clutch before mentioned but for weaving other than plain cloth the clutch is in
connection with a wheel which is loose on the shaft and which drives the tappets:
The card lattice is punched to give the necessary changes or movements to the
needles to weave the cloth and any desired cross border or handkerchief the
measuring motion determining the space between the cross borders.

page_text: In a modification a wooden lattice with pegs may be substituted for the cards to
actuate the levers of the cross border and handkerchief motion in which case the
barrel revolves but does not oscillate and in place of two levers one only may be used
to change the tappets and to revolve the barrel.
We have described the measuring motion as an automatic one it is obvious that if
preferred it may be controlled entirely by the operative.
Dated this 11th day of January 1889
H. B. BARLOW,
Agent.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Looms for Terry and Cross Bordered Fabrics.
We, BENJAMIN ORMEROD, Mill Manager, and JOSEPH GALLOWAY, Mechanic, both
in the employment of Messieurs John Dugdale and Sons, Blackburn in the County
of Lancaster, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement :-
Our invention relates to looms for weaving Turkish towellings, terry and other
fabrics with or without cross borders.
In weaving ferry fabrics we form the terry or loops by actuating the lathe so that
it heats up the weft one two or more picks and then moves a certain distance only for
one two or more picks leaving the pick or picks of weft which form the terry to be
beaten up into the shed by the succeeding movements of the lathe.
We accomplish our object by varying the distance between the crank and lathe
swords which may be effected in any convenient manner.
In one arrangement we connect the front end of each crank arm to an eccentric
preferably mounted and free to turn in bearings on the lathe sword each eccentric is
formed with an arm provided with a slot or holes for the adjustment of a connecting
rod secured above to the arm and below to a lever secured to a rocking shatt, which
shaft is caused to oscillate by a tappet secured to a shaft or stud driven from the
ordinary tappet shaft, the first named tappet being connected to the rocking shaft by
suitable levers.
The movement of the eccentrics for varying the distance between the cranks and the
lathe is governed by the tappet which may be formed to cause the crank to move
the lathe less than a full stroke say for two picks which will form the terry; the
eccentrics are then moved in the manner described to give the full stroke to the lathe
say for three picks by which the terry weft is beaten up; by changing the form of the
tappet any suitable number of picks may be given alternately.
A simple modification would be to form the crank arms in two pieces coupled
together and to a rod the latter being actuated so as to vary the distance between the
crank shaft and lathe at the required time.
When weaving the cross borders on Turkish towelling, terry and other goods we
employ an automatic or other measuring motion to bring the cross border or
handkerchief motion into gear.
In one arrangement we use metal cards and preferably three hooks one of which is
connected to the measuring motion by which it is actuated to move a pivoted catch
lever on to a star wheel secured to the card barrel and thereby drive the latter for
weaving the cross border; the next hook acts upon a second lever connected to a
sliding clutch mounted on the tappet shaft this lever moves the clutch out of gear
with the tappets to stop the healds when it is desired to put two or any given
multiple picks of weft into a single shed; the third hook acts upon a lever which
operates the second lever, and stops the healds by means of the clutch while one two
three or more picks are put into a single shel. The first and second needles are
raised and lowered by means of a plate corresponding to the knife or grife in a dobby
the plate being lifted by suitable connections from a tappet on the tappet shaft and a

page_text: second tappet also on the tappet shaft is preferably employed to move or oscillate the
card barrel.
In this arrangement the heald tappets are loose on their shift which is driven by
the clutch before mentioned but for weaving other than plain cloth the clutch is in
connection with a wheel which is loose on the shaft and which arives the tappets.
The card lattice is punched to give the necessary changes or movements to the
hooks to weave the cloth and any desired cross border or han kerchief the measuring
motion determining the space between the cross borders.
In a modification a wooden lattice with pegs may be substituted for the cards to
actuate the levers of the cross border and handkerchief motion in which case the
barrel revolves but does not oscillate and in place of two levers only one may be
used to change the tappets and to revolve the barrel.
We have described the measuring motion as an automatic one it is obvious that if
preferred it may be controlled entirely by the operative.
And in order that our invention may be fully understood and readily carried into
effect we will describe the accompanying four Sheets of Drawings reference being had
to the figures and letters marked thereon.
Figure 1 is a side view of part of a loom to which the first part of our invention is
applied and Fig. 2 is a plan of a portion of the same. Fig. 3 is a side view of part of
a loom to which our improvements for weaving cross borders or handkerchiefs are
applied. Fig. 4 is a back view and Fig. 5 shows a modification of this part of our
invention.
C
In Figs. 1 and 2. a indicates as much of the loom frame as is necessary to explain
the first part of our invention, bis the crank shaft, the crank and c the crank arı
or rod for connecting the crank to the lathe sword d but in this case the rod e fits on
a pine on an eccentric e which is free to turn in bearings cast with the lathe d to the
eccentric e is cast or otherwise secured an arm e¹ on which is mounted a screw e²
provided with a hand wheel e³ on this screw e² is a nut to which is connected a rod fl
pivoted below to a lever f2 fixed on a shaft 3 fitted in a bearing in the bracket;
to the shaft is also secured a lever i connected by a rod at ito a slotted rocking
lever pivoted at 2 on which is mounted an adjustable bowl which fits in the path g
of the tappet g by which it is actuated. The tappet g is in this case mounted on the
twill tappet shaft g driven by a train of wheels shown in dotted lines from the
ordinary tappet shaft ; as the tappet g revolves it lifts the rocking lever i rod³
levers and rod fi and arm e¹ thereby moving the eccentric stud and drawing
the lathe further from the cloth and bringing it nearer to the crank shaft so that the
succeeding picks of weft which form the terry will not be beaten up till the eccentric
stud e¹ is again moved into the position shown on the Drawing.
In order to make the terry or pile of any desired length the hand wheel e³ is
turned to move the nut nearer to or farther from the eccentric or the bowl i or studi
can be moved so as to decrease or increase the movement of the eccentric. An
eccentric with the rod and levers for actuating the same is placed at each side of the
loom.
In place of mounting the eccentric in the lathe sword it might be mounted on the
crank shaft b.
When our invention is applied to a loom for weaving cross borders which is stopped
by the ordinary measuring chain we provide a lever and clutch not shown by which
the operative may disengage the tappet g from the shaft g' to stop the action of the
levers connected to the eccentric arm el.
The second part of our invention is illustrated by Figs. 3, 4, and 5 in which is the
tappet shaft on which is fixed the tappet which acts upon the lever connected by
a bar to the lifting plate or grife k which moves up and down at every revolution
of the tappet shaftj; land m are needles or hooks having projections to enable them
to be raised by the grife and is a needle or rod pivoted at al; o is a table or
needle box in which are slots through which the hooks and m and rod n pass; there
are projections near the tops of the hooks and m which rest in the table o and keep
them up after they have been raised until the hook or books have been moved back

page_text: by the neeilles so as to release them; p is a catch which when lowered rests on the
star wheel by which the card barrel is rotated; to the catch p is fixed a piece of wire pl
which extends above a pin on the hook by which it is raised away from the star
wheel when the hook is lifted the lower part of the hook is connected to a
lever m which when the hook m is raised moves a clutch lever m² and disengages the
heald tappet, not shown, and stops the healds. Near the upper end of the rod nis
secured an adjustable finger which extends in front of the hook m and moves it
back so that it may fall when the rod is pushed back by one of the needles. There
are three needles one opposite each of the hooks l, m, and rod worked by the
card lattice on the card barrel when the card barrel moves inward as is well under-
stood the lever 7' which carries the card barrel and the star wheel 7 has a to and
fro movement communicated to it by the rod lever and tappet on the tappet
shaft is a spring which bears against the star wheel so that it will make just
one quarter of a revolution on its outward movement when the catch p rests on it.
The hook is connected by a rod to one arm of an elbow levert the other arm of
which is actuated by a catch on a disc which receives motion through wheels u²
and from the taking up roller shaft v.
The mode of operation is as follows:-
When a given length of terry or other fabric has been woven and the cross border
or handkerchief motion is to be brought into operation the catch which has been
set for that purpose depresses one arm of the elbow lever t and by the red draws
back the rod which falls and brings the catch pon to the star wheel and rotates it,
the hook has hitherto remained down having been kept back out of the path of the
grife by a blank on the card acting on its needle ; when the card presents a hole
to this needle it allows the hook m to spring forward and be raised by the grife
when it will rest on the table o and stop the healds till it is pushed back by a blank
on the card and allowed to fall. With this hook m alone any even number of picks
may be put into the shed the finger on the rod is used to move back the hook m
whenever an odd number of picks has to be put into a shed.
When the cross border or handkerchief has been completed a hole in the lattice will
come opposite the needle of the hook and allow the hook I to come forward into
the path of the grife & which will lift it and allow it to rest on the table the catch p is
thus raised and the rotation of the card barrel stopped.
On Fig. 5, is the tappet shaft on which is the tappet which operates the lever j²
connected by the link and lever pl pivoted at p to the catches & and P which
when they are allowed to fall operate the star wheef y on the lattice barrel. o is the
needle box or table in which are two needles operated by pegs on the lattice w to
move the hook mand rod n; there is an adjustable finger on the rod n; k is the
grife which is raised by the lever to lift the hook m the latter being connected by
levers mand m² to a clutch fork m³.
In operation when the cross border or handkerchief motion is to be put into gear
the catch is pulled by the measuring motion or otherwise so that its hooked end
falls on to the star wheel q provided with pegs on each side on the shaft of the
lattice barrel and moves it and so causes the peg to pass from under a wire
fixed to the catch p and allows the latter to fall on to its pegs on the star wheel
and rotate the barrel until the cross border is completed when the peg q3 comes
under the wire and again lifts the catch the lattice chain acts upon the needles and
hooks m and rod n and work the heald tappet as described in reference to Figs. 3
and 4.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what
we claim is
1. In a loom for weaving terry fabrics the arrangement use and application of
a tappet or equivalent on the tappet or other shaft with the necessary connections
for varying the distance between the crank shaft and lathe sword substantially as and
for the purposes described and as illustrated by the Drawings.

page_text: 2. In a loom for weaving cross bordered fabrics the hook m and rod n or their
equivalents with starting and stopping mechanism in combination with a chain barrel
and its needles for actuating the heald tappet substantially as and for the purposes
described and as illustrated by the Drawings.
3. In a loom for weaving cross bordered fabrics the arrangement and employment
of a single tappet and lever with connections for rotating a card barrel and putting
the heald tappet into and out of gear as required substantially as and for the purposes
described and as illustrated by the Drawings.
4. The construction combination and arrangement of parts embodying our
improvements in looms for weaving terrys and cross bordered fabrics substantially as
shown and described.
Dated this with dase
1000
H. B. BARLOW,
17, St. Ann's Square, Manchester, Agent for Applicants.