IMPROVEMENTS IN TEXTILE FABRICS FOR EMBROIDERY, TRIMMINGS, AND OTHER ORNAMENTAL PURPOSES, AND MACHINERY EMPLOYED IN MAKING THE FABRICS INTO TRIM- MINGS
Year: 1861

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to John Livesey, of New Lenton, in the County of
Nottingham, Lace Manufacturer, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS
IN TEXTILE FABRICS FOR EMBROIDERY, TRIMMINGS, AND OTHER ORNAMENTAL
PURPOSES, AND MACHINERY EMPLOYED IN MAKING THE FABRICS INTO TRIM-
MINGS."
Sealed the 11th February 1862, and dated the 16th August 1861.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said John Livesey, at the Office
of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 16th August
1861
I, JOHN LIVESEY, of New Lenton, in the County of Nottingham, Lace
Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for
"IMPROVEMENTS IN TEXTILE FABRICS FOR EMBROIDERY, TRIMMINGS, AND OTHER
ORNAMENTAL PURPOSES. AND MACHINERY EMPLOYED IN MAKING THE FABRICS INTO
TRIMMINGS," to be as follows:-
My new textile fabric consists of a narrow band or braid made with pile
loops, the loops are worked at different intervals, and the fabric is so manu-
factured as to allow of its being worked into curves and ornamental forms.
My Invention further consists in an arrangement of machinery carrying
scissors in such manner as to enable a workman with facility to cut or leave
uncut such portions of the pile as are desired, for the purpose of forming
any ornamental work required with my new textile fabric.
Figure 1 shows the machinery by which this is effected. a is a fixed blade
of the scissors, and 6 is a moveable blade; c is a rod connecting the latter with
a crank d; and e is a strap passing round a roller on the crank shaft, and over
a guide pulley f, supported by a bracket g, to a drum h, The portions of the
pile to be cut are laid by a workman on the fixed blade a of the scissors while

page_text: those not to be cut are directed free of the point. As the blade 6 works so
much of the fabric as has been guided over the point of the scissors is cnt and
the whole is wound on the drum.
My Invention also consists in arranging machinery in such manner as to
bring two or more threads into work to be twisted round each other so that
at different intervals of the twisting the bands or braids herein-before referred
to may be placed between these threads to hold them in the position required
to form different designs. These threads may also have wire threads twisted
with them when required, and needles may be added and used for further
fixing the pattern of the trimming or design required.
Figure 2 shows in side elevation, and Figure 3 in front view, so much of
the machinery as-will-be-necessary to explain this part of my Invention,a.a,
are bobbins carrying threads b. b; these bobbins are supported in a flyer c,
which is connected to a shaft d, carrying a pinion e in gear with a toothed
wheel mounted on a shaft g, carrying a pulley h, round which a cord passes
for communicating rotary motion to it, "The twisted threads b, b, are led
down over pulleys i, i, to a pulley k and thence between sizing rollers 1,4,to a
hollow shaft m which carries a pinion in gear with the wheelf; 0,0, are
guides connected to the hollow shaft m. After the twisted threads pass
through the hollow shaft one thread is divided from the other and led over
the guides o, o, now on motion being communicated to the machinery the
bobbinsa,a,and shaftm revolve at an equal velocity, and with them the threads,
while this is taking place the required portions of fabric are introduced in the
space formed between the threads by the guides o, o, the threads become
twisted round them and retain them in the positions required. The fabric is
wound over the drum p, thence between a guide roller g, and so off the
machine; is a ratchet wheel with spring pauls s,s,for communicating motion
to the drum p; t is a cord in connection with the pulley h for stopping or
setting the machine in motion.
Figure 4 shows a portion of the uncut, and Figure 5 a portion of the cut
fabric after being made un by the threads bh
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said John Livesey in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 15th
February 1862.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JOHN
LIVESEY, of New Lenton, in the County of Nottingham, Lace Manufacturer,
send greeting.

page_text: WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Sixteenth day of August, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and sixty-one, in the twenty-fifth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me,
the said John Livesey, Her special licence that I, the said John Livesey,
my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said
John Livesey, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time
time agree with, and no others, from time to time and atall times thereafter
during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use,
exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland,
the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
TEXTILE FABRICS FOR EMBROIDERY, TRIMMINGS. AND OTHER ORNAMENTAL PURPOSES
AND MACHINERY EMPLOYED IN MAKING THE FABRICS INTO TRIMMINGS," upon the
condition (amongst others) that I, the said Johu Livesey, my executors
or administrators, by an instrument in writing under ny, or their, or one
of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the
nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be
performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office
within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said
Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said John Livesey, do hereby declare the
nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement thereof, reference being had to the Drawing hereunto annexed,
that is to say:-
My Invention consists, first, in the manufacture of a new fabric consisting of
narrow bands or braids having pile loops worked at different intervals upon
them, and so inade as to be capable of being easily divided, and worked into
curves or other ornamental forms, and when so worked making a new kind of
trimming for edges and other fancy ornaments. The narrow bands are
made on lace machinery. Supposing the width of band required to be about
the sixteenth of an inch broad, then I use ten warp threads to two carriage
threads, eight of which warp threads form the ground. The silk I prefer to
employ for the ground threads has about eight drachms to 500 yards dyed on
the gum, one of the remaining warp threads being used as a draw thread,
and the other warp thread as a lacing thread, for these two last-named warp
thread I use lighter silk. For working pile threads I use a pile bar having
one guide to two carriages and in proportion as more or less richness of pile
is required so more or less pile threads in each guide are used, the pile and

page_text: warp threads mentioned are moved to the positions required by seven guide
bars. There is also an instrument bar required for pile instruments. When
working the bars stand as follows:-The firstguide bar is a lacing bar,and is a
half bar moving two gates, each motion of the machine reverse twist, and is
placed at the back of the instrument bar. The instrument bar is placed second
from the back (having one pile instrument for two carriages), the instruments
are placed one gate from the dead stop of the lacing bar. The second guide
bar is a full bar placed third from the back of the machine, moving one gate
each motion of the machine, reverse twist. The third guide bar is a full bar
placed fourth from the back, moving onegate each motion of the machine,right
twist. The fourth-guide-bar-is a pile thread bar blaced fifth from the back,
and is a half bar moving two gates, reverse twist; where piled is required on
the band, and one gate right, or reverse, orstands in the back or front of the
fabric where pile is not required, the dead stop of this bar is the same as the
lacing bar.
The fifth is a full guide bar placed sixth from the back, moving
one gate each motion of the machine, right twist. The sixth guidebar is a full
guide bar placed seventh-from-the-back, moving one gate each motion of the
machine, reverse twist. The seventh guide bar is a half bar used for the draw
thread and made to tie as required. When the work is made according to this
arrangement of bars it will be seen the bands before-mentioned are formed by
using two carriage threads to each band, make one row of terry pile to two
carriages, 'which when cut as afterwards described will make one rowofcutpile
toeach carriage that has been used, the pilethreads inthe example given having
been thrown each motion of the machine where pile was required. By using a
greater number of ground and pile threads more than one row of cut pile may
be obtained to each carriage. If the lacing thread be worked as a drawthread,
andall the pile cut by the scissors, the bands already described maybedivided
into two bands, each being about the thirty-second of an inch wide instead of
an eighth of an inch wide. If it be desired that part of the terry loops form
velvet pile and part long ornamental pile, the material is first divided by
means of the draw threads into breadths containing six or eight ofthe bands
or braids, these are then placed under a cutting or shearing machine, and the
top of the terry loops which it is desired to form into velvet pile is cut off,
the material is then divided into separate bands and the long pile cut bythe
machinery herein-after described.
My Invention further consists in an arrangement of machinery carrying
scissors in such a mauuer as to enable a workman with facility to cut or leave
uncut such portions of the pile as desired for the purpose of forming any
ornamental work required with my new textile fabrics. .

page_text: Figure 1 shown in plau, and Figure 2 in side elevation the machinery by
which this is effected.
a is a fixed blade of the scissors, and bis a movable blade; c is a rod con-
necting the latter with a crank d, and e is a belt passing round a roller on the
crank shaft and under a tightening roller into a groove on one edge of the
drum f, for the purpose of causing the latter to revolve. g is a pulley on the
crank shaft, giving motion to the machine. The druin is supported by
arms as shewu in dotted lines, having a boss working on a fixed screw.
In working this machine the material is wound on a roller (not shewu) and
brought to the side of the guide, the workman's hand being supported by the
rest h. The portions of the pile to be cut and guided by the workman on to
the point of the fixed blade a of the scissors, while those not to be cut are
directed from the point. As the blade 6 works, so much of the pile as has
been guided on to the point of the scissors is cut, the work is from this point
brought over the guide and on to the drum,and as the latter revolves it follows
the screw, whereby the work does not overlap, but is laid evenly round the
face of the drum. The drum is covered with calico or other suitable material
and previously to the work being brought upon it this calico is made damp
after the drum is covered with the work. Then a gas jet i is applied by
means of a flexible pipe, and the evaporation produced from the damp calico
causes the steam to act upon the fabric, which straightens the silk forming
the pile, which, without this damping, would retain, after being cut, much
of its original form.
My Invention also consists in arranging machinery in such manner as to
bring two or more threads into work to be twisted round each other, so that
at different intervals of the twisting, the bands or braids herein before referred
to may be placed between these threads, the twisting of which will hold
the bands in the position required to form different designs.
Figure 3 shows in side elevation and Figure 1 in front view so much of
the machinery as will be necessary to explain this
part of my Invention.
a is a bobbin carrying threads (only one bobbin and shuttle are shewn on
the disc in Figure 3, but more may be used). This bobbin is supported in a
shuttle carried by the disc, which is connected to a shaft c, carrying a
pinion d, in gear with a toothed wheel e, mounted on a shaft f, carrying a
pulley g, round which a cord passes for communicating rotary motion to
it. The twisted threads h, are led down over pulleys i, i, to a pulley k,
and thence between sizing rollers l, l, to a hollow shaft m, which carries
a pinion n in gear with the wheel e; P, p', are guides connected to the
hollow shaft m; after the twisted threads pass through the hollow shaft one

page_text: thread is divided from the other, and led over or through the guides p,p'. Now
on motion being communicated to the machinery the bobbius a and shaft revolve
at an equal velocity, and with them the threads h, l'. While this is taking
place the required portions of fabric are introduced in the space formed
between the threads by the guides p, p'; the threads become twisted round the
fabric, as shewn in Figures 5 and 6, and thus retain the fabric in the
positions required. The fabric is wound over the drum, thence between a
guide roller r, and so off the machine. sisaratchet wheel with spring paulst,t,
for communicating motion to the drum; u is a cord in connection with the
pulley g for stopping or setting the machines in motion. The cord is connected
to a lever which acts against.or comes in contact with a stud on the pulley g.
The shaft c may be made hollow for the purpose of passing a wire-or-other
material through to work along with the threads.
Figure 5 shows a portion of the uncut, aud Figure 6 a portion of the cut
fabric, after being made up by the threads; Figure 7 shows a portion of a
plain band or braid; Figure 8 shows in front elevation an arrangement by
which I am more effectually enabled to divide the threads so as to insert
the bands, braids, or other ornamental fabric or material between them.--
a is a shaft carrying a pulley on one end,round which a strap passes for com-
municating rotary motion to it; b is a semi-toothed wheel on the shaft a,set to
gear with another toothed wheel c; d,d,are toothed wheels, one only of which is
seen, on the same shaft as the wheel c,each having part of their teeth cut away,
but fitted on their shaft so that the spaces alternate at top and bottom; ff.
are pinions in gear with the wheels d,d,the motion of each of which alternately
ceases as the spaces on the wheels d, d, pass them; g is a cam on the shaft a,
bearing against the truck h, which acts against the lever i, free to move about
the point ; is a cord connected to one end of the lever i, and to the end of
a weighted rod n; is another cord attached to the top of the rod n, passes
over a pulley m, and down to the end of a curved link, connecting it with
the end of a rod q. The rod n is free to slide up and down in a tube o, and
the rod q is free to slide up and down in the tube p. Each of these rods carries
arms ",", which at the desired time are admitted between the threads issuing
from the bobbins. Now on motion being communicated to the machinery,
the wheel b, supposing it to occupy the position shown in the Drawing, will
gear into the wheel c, and thereby communicate motion to it until the former
reaches the part where the teeth are cut away; the motion of the wheel c will
then immediately stop, as well as that of the wheels d, d, and the pinions f,ƒ.
The cam then comes into action, thereby raising the rod n and lowering the
s,s, are grooves in the tubes o and p, in which studs connected to the
rod q.

page_text: rods n and g are free to slide. These grooves are so made that so soon as
motion is communicated to the rods n aud q, they become turned, and the
arms r, r, have their position immediately reversed. This being the case they
seize the thread, and divide it to the extent to which they are free to move,
during which motion the ornamental portions are inserted or passed through,
and the parts return to their former positions. There is a break or stop not
shown, similar to that described with reference to Figures 3 and 4, the stud
being so placed as to stop the motion when the threads are divided.
And having now described the nature of my said Invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed, I declare that I claim as my "Improve-
ments in Textile Fabrics for Embroidery, Trimmings, and other Ornamental
Purposes,and Machineryemployed in Making the Fabrics into Trimmings,"-
First, the new textile fabric consisting of bands or braids made with pile
loops, substantially in manner herein-after described.
-
Second, the new textile fabric, consisting of bands or braids made with pile
loops, and worked into an ornamental form, substantially in manner herein-
before described and illustrated at Figures 5 and 6 of the accompanying
Drawings.
Third, the employment of machinery carrying scissors for cutting and
leaving uncut portions of the pile in fabrics, acting substantially in manner
herein-before described and illustrated at Figures 1 and 2 of the accompanying
Drawings.
Fourth, the construction and employment of machinery for twisting threads
so that they may be divided and have ornamental portions or fabrics made
according to my Invention inserted and held between then,all substantially as
herein-before described and illustrated at Figures 3, 4, and S, of the accom-
panying Drawings.
In witness whereof, I, the said John Livesey, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Fifteenth day of February, One thousand eight
hundred and sixty-two.
JOHN LIVESEY. (L.S.)