ÜR SPEZIAL NAH-MASCHINENAKTIENGESELLS
Year: 1898

page_text: A communication from abroad by the FABRIK FÜR SPEZIAL NAH-MASCHINEN
AKTIENGESELLSCHAFT (Patente Julius Gutmann), of Zurich, Switzerland.
I, WILLIAM LLOYD WISE, of 46, Lincoln's Inn Fields, in the County of London,
Consulting Engineer and Chartered Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature of
this invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to button-hole sewing-machines, and has for its object to
produce an improved apparatus for use in said machines for the purpose of enabling
the button-holes to be provided at their ends (that are to be barred) with barring
stitches which are parallel or approximately parallel to the direction of the button-
hole, and at right angles, or approximately at right angles to the direction of the
edge sewing stitches. The improved device is characterized, as compared with earlier
devices by its extreme simplicity, which allows of its application to machines of
earlier systems in which the barring of the ends is effected by means of ordinary
sewing stitches having the same direction as the edge sewing stitches.
The accompanying drawings illustrate various forms of construction of this
improved device by way of example; thus Figs. 1 to 10 illustrate a machine
of the Gutman system, provided with a device according to the present invention.
Fig. 1 shows the machine in front elevation.
Fig. 2 is an underside view of the base-plate with the mechanism carried thereby,
the ratchet wheel being removed.
Fig. 3 is a plan of the base-plate with its adjacent parts.
Fig. 4 is a vertical longitudinal section showing the base-plate with the feeding
mechanism.
Fig. 4 is a diagrammatic representation of a button-hole with its sewing and
barring stitches.
Fig. 5 is a vertical cross-section through the base-plate and feeding mechanisın.
Fig. 6 is a plan of the ratchet wheel and heart-shaped cam.
Fig. 7 is a vertical cross-section of both those parts on the line -x of Fig. 6.
Fig. 8 is a plan of the ratchet wheel, with the heart-shaped cam removed.
Figs. 9 and 10 show the heart-shaped cam separately, respectively in elevation and
in cross-section on the line y-y of Fig. 9.
The machine, as ordinarily constructed, has a swinging needle, that is to say,
a needle which has imparted to it, in addition to its up and down motion, a
lateral-rocking or oscillating motion at right angles to the button-hole during the
sewing of the edges, for the purpose of producing the zig-zag sewing switches,
whilst the slide or carrier that carries the presser foot or cloth clamping device
has imparted to it, during the sewing of these edges, a feeding motion solely in
the direction of the button-hole.

page_text: A machine according to this invention is constructed in such a manner that the
barring of the ends of the button-hole, as already mentioned, is effected by means of
stitches which are at right angles or approximately at right angles to the edge
sewing stitches, that is to say, parallel to the direction of the button-hole. This is
effected by means of the needle being stopped during the barring operation as
regards its lateral movements so that it can only make vertical up and down
movements, whilst the presser foot or cloth feeding device, together with the cloth,
receive to and fro movements in the direction of the button-hole, and also a step by
step feed at right angles to the button hole, as will be hereinafter described.
In the machine shown in Figs. 1 to 10 inclusive, the carrier & carrying the presser
foot D is arranged, for the purpose of producing the movements above mentioned, in
the lower plate (which is moved at right angles in the direction of the button-hole
in guides h, h³, fixed to the base-plate) so as to be capable of movement at right
angles to the direction of the said plate 4, that is to say, in the direction of the
button-hole.
In sewing the edges of the hole, the feed motion is effected by the movement
of this part, by means of the lever links b and b, the latter pivotting on the
pin 2, the bent lever b being attached to the upper carriage or to the pin 67
of the same.
The bent lever b and the lever are connected by means of a clip 65 with a
stud that engages in the slot 63 of the lever bin such a manner as to produce
a firm connection and also to enable the said levers to be relatively adjusted.
The lever mechanism is operated in a usual manner by a cam groove c in the
ratchet wheel which is continuously rotated step by step by means of a pawl
lever a that is under the action of a spring a and that is provided with a
pawl a, the pawl lever receiving its motion from a secondary shaft by means
of an eccentric a and lever mechanism a¹, a2 with guide rod a³.
The needle bar frame g which oscillates during the sewing of the edges of the hole,
is stopped during the barring by means of a stop piece e, which moves laterally
against the same, and which is mounted on a connecting rod et connected with a two-
armed lever es, which lever is mounted so as to oscillate in the baseplate, and carries
on its free arm a roller e¹ through which the lever receives its stroke (that causes the
motion of the connecting rod eº) by means of stops c³ on the inner edge of the ratchet
wheel c*.
The two and fro movements of the upper carriage with the presser foot D in the
direction of the button-hole for the purpose of producing the barring stitches, is
effected in a similar manner as before by means of a lever f which is pivoted on
a pin and which receives continuously to and fro movements through the
medium of lever mechanism f³, f², f from a cam or eccentric f that is mounted
on the shaft wl and has a cam groove f, whilst the carriage d', as soon as the barring
begins, establishes connection between and f, by means of a coupling pin that
is moved vertically in a sleeve and which is raised by means of projections e on
the inner si le of the wall of the ratchet wheel c³, said pin et entering a slot d² in the
plate d, or the slot of the small plate d³ mounte:l on the plate.
Thus far, the mechanisms described are constructed as hitherto but the devices
according to this invention are constructed in such a manner that during the to and
fro movements of the movements of the upper carriage during the barring operation the
jointed levers b, b, which are connected to the carriage, and consequently also the
roller b' which is situated in the cam groove cs, is capable of sharing the to and fro
movements of the carriage d³.
In former constructions, on the contrary, the mechanism which produces the feed
of the carriage during the sewing of the edges, does not share, as is well known, the
to and fro movement of the carriage in the barring, because the construction in that
case renders such sharing of the movement impossible, but the actuating mechanism
is so constructed and is connected with a coupling mechanism in such a nanner that
as soon as the barring begins, the connection between the carriage and the actuating
mechanism is interrupted; which connection is again established after the barring.

page_text: This arrangement naturally renders the construction of the machine or its actuating
mechanism more or less complicated, and necessitates a special coupling mechanism
and also a device for actuating the same.
Now, according to the present invention the actuating mechanism remains in
connection with the carriage d during the barring operation, the construction
being such that the actuating mechanism is capable of partaking of the to and
fro movements of the carriage. By these means considerable simplification in
the construction of the actuating m chanism is effected, and the coupling device and
its actuating mechanism are rendered unnecessary. The improved construction now
consists in that the cam piece c formed with the cam groove c³ (the so-called heart-
shaped cam) is not, as formerly, formed inseparably with the ratchet wheel c³, but
constitutes a separate part, which, during the sewing of the edges is rigidly connected
to the ratchet wheel, but is disconnected therefrom during the barring operation in
such a manner that it can be moved by the lever mechanism b, b, or by the roller b',
that reciprocates with the carriage d. The connection between the cam piece and
ratchet wheel is effected by means of a locking mechanism consisting of two
bolts c, c which are fixed to the inner side of the ratchet wheel, and are under the
action of springs 2 and that have recesses ctx, into which can engage pins c¹ which
project from the cam piece c7 towards the inner side of the ratchet wheel, in such a
imanner that the bolts thereby hold the cam piece fixed.
The disconnection at the commencement of the barring operation is effected by
the bolts c, c', which project laterally from the cam piece striking against the
rollers h, that are fixed to the carriage or to the base-plate G, and which project
into the annular groove c¹² between the outer edge of the cam piece c² and the
projecting edge c¹³ of the ratchet wheel, and against which rollers the outer edges of
the heads of the bolts c, c¹ strike.
Whilst these edges in the rotation of the wheel slide along the rollers, the bolts
are pressed inwards, whereby the pins c are released from the recesses ex. The
bolts are then in such a position that the pins project into the recesses c³ which allow
then sufficient space for their to and fro movements, so that the cam piece can
execute without hindrance the aforesaid to and fro movements in the direction of
the arrow, Fig. 6. During these movements the rectilinear guidance of the cam
piece is effected by means of fillets c which are bolted to said cam piece and which
are inserted in suitable recesses cox in the ratchet wheel. These fillets are preferably
made of dove-tail shape, or with a downward taper, as shown in the drawing, Fig. 7,
so that the cam piece is held by the ratchet wheel without hindrance to the said
movements. The bolts remain out of gear during the barring, because the outer
edges of their heads that strike against the rollers h, are of such a length that
the said bolts will remain in contact with the rollers h, during this part of the
operation.
The arrange:nent is such that as soon as the barring is finished (that is to say,
when the connection off with d is again separated, the projections e2 having
passed the pin et, and the stopping of the needle frame ceases, by the projections c
having passed the roller e¹, the outer edges of bolts will also have passed the
rollers, so that the said bolts can be again pressed outwards by the pressure of the
springs in order to lock the pins c in the recesses cx in the cam piece and
thereby to hold the latter firmly.
The cam piece c7 is provided with recesses cx, cx suitable for the bolts and in
which the latter move. The hole co in the can piece, into which the sleeve cof
the ratchet wheel c projects, is widened laterally, to suit the to and fro movement
of the cam piece.
A modification of detail is shown in Figs. 11 to 15 inclusive, in which there is
arranged upon the inner side of the ratchet wheel which has the guide curve proper,
a plate which is movable by spring action, and which is capable of conveying the to
and fro movements of the carriage d to the actuating mechanism, whilst the curved
groove in the ratchet wheel is formned with recesses for the purpose of allowing the
necessary play to the roller.

page_text: Fig. 11 is a plan of the ratchet wheel with the plate, Fig. 12 is a vertical cross-
ection on the line - of Fig. 11. Fig. 14 shows the ratchet wheel separately, the
plate being removed. Fig. 14 shows the plate in plan, and Fig. 15 the same in
vertical section on the line u-u of Fig. 14.
On the inside of the ratchet wheel is formed a cam groove it corresponding in
position to a guide groove 18 in the plate which is mounted upon the ratchet
wheel. This cam groove is forms the guide proper for the actuating mechanism
that produces the feed during the sewing operation. The plate 7 is arranged on the
ratchet wheel in such a manner that during the sewing of the edges, it is held fast
by means of springs, that are carried by the ratchet wheel and act laterally
upon the edges of said plate whilst the guide groove and the cam groove it (into
which the roller of the actuating mechanism projects) coincide with each other.
the place where the roller stops during the barring operation, the cam groove * in
the ratchet wheel is formed with suitable recesses 2*, 25*, which allow of the roller
having play in its two and fro motion; during which motion the power of the
springs, is overcome, so that the plate can be reciprocated by the actuating
mechanisin or roller.
At
The rectilinear guidance of the plate is effected by means of a fillet which is
capable of sliding in a suitable recess 20x in à part of the ratchet wheel, and which,
being bolted to the plate, also serves to hold the plate together said plate being
divided by the carved recess or slot is into an inner and an outer part. At the place
which is situated in the curved groove the fillet is provided with a recess or notch ***,
for the purpose of allowing the roller to pass, which, as above stated, projects into the
cam groove it. The plate is held on the ratchet wheel by means of screws 2; the
said plate being provided with slots to receive the screws, in order to allow free play
in the to and fro motion. For the same purpose the hole 10, for the hub of the
ratchet wheel, is widened out on both sides.
In the former construction, as also in the modification just described, the rim c¹³,
or 13, of the ratchet wheel is formed on its inner side with recesses c¹¹, or 2¹¹, which,
during the barring operation, effect the feed at right angles to the button-hole by
acting upon the rollers and that are mounted on the carriage h In these
movements, the rollers h, h¹ are kept, by means of spiral springs 9° (Fig. 2) acting
upon the carriage and mounted on pins gl, pressed against the inner side of the rim c¹³
or which rim effects the aforesaid intermittent feed by reason of its change of
profile. As shown in the drawings (Figs. 6 and 11) the rim is made thicker on one
half than on the other half the difference substantially corresponding to the distance
of the two edge seams from each other, for the purpose of producing the two different
positions of the carriage ht.
Figs. 16, 17 and 18 illustrate a considerably simpler form of construction of
my new device applied to a machine of the same type as that shown in Figs. 1 to 15
inclusive.
Fig. 16 is a front elevation of the machine, partly in section-Fig. 17 is an under-
side view of the base-plate, the ratchet wheel being removed.
Fig. 18 is a plan of the ratchet wheel separately.
The carriage that carries the presser foot I) is as hereinbefore described, capable
of moving in a second carriage ht (which is guided at right angles to the direction of
the button-hole in the guide cheeks h, h³) at right angles to the direction of motion
of the part h³, that is to say, in the direction of the button-hole. The feed motion,
in sewing in the direction of the button-hole, is effected by moving this part do by
by means of the lever mechanism 68, 6º, 610, 612 and 614, the lever 614 of which engages
with the upper carriage d, or with its pin be, whilst the lever 68 that carries the
roller b¹ is pivotally mounted on the pin 68x that is screwed into the base plate G. The
lever 10 is connected with the lever 68 by means of the intermediate part 69, whilst
the lever bengages with the lever 12 at 615. These levers 610 and 12 are both
pivotally mounted on pins fixed to the base plate and are provided with coinciding
slots and 13 through which extends a screw serving to effect the connection between
the two levers.

page_text: These slots 6 and 613 allow of the adjustment of the lever mechanism thus enabling
the leverage of the same to be altered according to requirement, or according to the
length of the button-hole to be stitched.
The lever mechanism is actuated in usual manner by means of a heart-shaped
cam groove in the ratchet wheel in which there engages a roller & mounted on
the lever b. The ratchet wheel is actuated by means of the pawllever that carries
the pawl a³ and which is under the action of the spring a, the pawl lever receiving its
step by step motion from the shaft by means of the eccentric a and the lever
mechanism a', a², with guide rod a³.
The construction shown in the drawings of the lever mechanism 6s, 6, 10, 12,
and 6, or the arrangement of the several members of the same, has for object in the
barring operation to produce a position of the barring stitches which shall be as
accurate as possible.
In the foriner machines in which the lever mechanism is constructed as a simple
toggle, there takes place, in consequence of the feed motion at right angles to the
button-hole and effected compulsorily by means of the feed motion of the carriage *,
a shifting of the toggle which, although very small, has the result of producing a
small relative change of position of the upper carriage d³.
This small relative shifting or movement of the carriaged in relation to the carriage h+
naturally takes place in the longitudinal direction of the button-hole, because the
carriage d is guided on the carriage h in the said longitudinal direction of the cloth
presser, i.e., of the button-hole; that is to say, at right angles to the direction of the
barring movement proper of the carriage arrangement h, d, which is moved as
above-mentioned at right angles to the direction of the button-hole during the
barring operation. Consequently the barring undergoes a slight curvature, that is,
it does not extend exactly at right angles to the edge seaming but is of somewhat
arc-shape, in consequence of the aforesaid small relative movement of upon h¹ in
the longitudinal direction of the button-hole, whereby the locking is caused to bulge
out laterally, although the individual stitches are severally at right angles or
approximately at right angles to the edge sewing stitches.
Now, in the present construction of the lever mechanism, the aforesaid relative
change of position or shifting of the carriage din barring does not take place,
because in the feed motion of the lower carriage (in which the lever 61+ is caused
to move out-wards) no shifting of the point 610 of the toggle joint takes place either
to the right or to the left, but there takes place only a compensating shifting of the
joint at 615 by the deflection of the levers 610, 612
In the hereinbefore described construction shown in Figs. 1-15 the inner cam
piece, that is to say the so-called heart-shaped cam provided with a cam groove c³ is
made as a separate moveable part which is rigidly connected to the ratchet wheel
during the sewing of the edges, but which is disconnected therefrom during
barring, in such a manner that the said cam can be carried along by the lever
mechanism that moves to and fro with the carriage. Now, on the contrary, in
the device being described there is employed an extremely simple and efficient
device, viz. that in the cam piece cx which is rigidly connected with the ratchet
wheel, or may be made in one piece therewith, the curve c is widened out centrally
at those places c¹ and c¹5 at which the roller is situated during the barring
operation, (corresponding to the position of the roller during the to and fro movement
of the carriage) so that the said roller has space for free movement.
In this machine there is further provided a novel device which further increases
the efficiency of the machine, viz.:-the mechanism which produces the feed
motion during the barring operation is so constructed that the amount of the
feed can be altered within certain limits according to requirement.
The roller which is operated by the variations in profile c¹ of the ring e¹³ on the
ratchet wheel and which in the former constructions was fastened directly to
the lower carriage or to a projection thereof, is now mounted on a lever h³ which
is pivotally fixed at ho on the base-plate G and which has a slot x into which
engages a part of a lever h³ connected to the carriage hat h. Now, by shifting the
.

page_text: said part of the lever in the slot 4x the operative length of the lever hand
consequently the leverage of the same can be altered. The alteration of the
leverage or ratio of the lever arms, as is readily perceived, produces an alteration
in the amount of the feed of the carriage or of the feed movement of the button-
hole portion of the cloth during the barring operation, whereby an alteration is
also inade in the distance between the edge seams that is to say, in the width
of the button-hole, the arrangement being of considerable importance inasmuch
as it allows of shifting the edge seams away from each other according to requirement,
that is to say, in the case of a wide seaming of the edges, of preventing the two
edge seams from being sewn one over the other or over-lapping.
Figs. 19 to 30 inclusive illustrate a button-hole machine which is provided with a
modified form of device according to the present invention and which belongs, as
regards its type, that is to say, its general arrangement, to the Wheeler and Wilson
machine system.
In these figures, Fig. 19 is a front elevation of the machine.
Fig. 20 shows the machine in plan, the upper portion of the machine, that is
to say the frame with the machine arm and with the appurtenant mechanisms being
* removed.
Fig. 21 is a plan, on a larger scale, of a part of the base-plate with the
appurtenant mechanisms, the ratchet wheel and the ratchet pawl support being
removed.
Fig. 22 is a plan of the annular ratchet pawl support with its connecting
rod.
Fig. 23 is a side elevation looking from the left side of the parts shown in plan
in Fig. 21.
Fig. 24 is a detailed plan of the base-plate with the carriage.
Figs. 25, 26 and 27 show the eccentric with the removable heart-shaped cam in
plan, under-side view, and in front elevation respectively.
Fig. 28 is an underside view of the base-plate with the appurtenant mechanisms
on an enlarged scale.
Fig. 29 shows a portion of the mechanism shown in Fig. 28 in another position of
working.
Fig. 30 is a vertical longitudinal section on the line --v of Fig. 29, looking in
the direction of the arrow.
In this machine, the locking is again effected by means of the cloth carriage, (that is
to say, the supporting slide carrying the cloth clainping device,) being moved to and fro
in the direction of the button-hole, as soon as the button-hole is moved into an end
position, whilst the said carriage also receives a short feed motion at right angles
to the button-hole, whilst the needle moves vertically up and down.
Unlike the arrangement previously described, the present machine has a needle
that works only vertically that is to say, a needle which has solely a vertical up
and down motion during the sewing of the edges, whilst the material receives the
to and fro movements (necessary to produce zig zag sewing stitches) at right angles
to the direction of the button-hole, during the sewing of the edges. The material
has also at the same time a uniform feed motion in the direction of the button-
hole.
In this arrangement the cloth clamping device is so arranged that the button-bole
is situated across the longitudinal direction of the base-plate, as shown in Fig. 20,
the slide P carrying the cloth clamping device K¹ thus receives, for the purpose of
sewing the edges, to and fro movements in the direction of the double arrow I and a
uniform feeding movement in the direction of one of the arrows II; but for the
purpose of locking, it receives to and fro movements in the direction of the double
arrow III and a uniform feed movement in the direction of one of the arrows IV.
The device for driving the various mechanisms that produce the said movements,
consists of the cam disc M (Figs. 19 and 20) which is mounted on the looper
shaft and which is provided in the usual inauner with cam grooves, which grooves
act upon a double lever m³, m² that is fixed so as to be capable of moving on the

page_text: pin mo on the base-plate, and whose arm m³ carries at its front end a pin m which
engages in the cam grooves whereby the lever m¹, m² is caused, during the rotation
of the disc M to move to and fro continuously about its pivot mº.
In sewing, these rocking movements produce a to and fro movement of the
carriage S, in which the cloth feed is held fast, by means of the lever m² that is
jointed to the lever m¹ and which carries, on its side facing the base-plate, a pin m³
that is held by means of the spring f in engagement with a suitable recess m of a
fillet m arranged on the under side of S, Figs. 29 and 30. In this manner the
rocking movement of the lever m¹ is transmitted to the carriage S which is guided
rectilinearly at right angles to the direction of the button-hole, and which, carrying the
slide P with it, moves the button-hole to and fro in the direction indicated. The
relative working position of the parts in this movement are shown in Figs. 29 and 30.
The feed movement during the sewing, that is to say, the movement of the cloth
feed P in the direction of the arrows II Fig. 20, is effected by means of the disc (¹
that is provided with a suitably-shaped cam groove o¹ and which is coupled fast during
the sewing operation with a disc O in a similar manner as is the corresponding disc in
the machine first described, said disc O being in turn fixed to the ratchet
wheel Q.
The ratchet wheel Q is moved intermittently by means of a ratchet pawl Q¹ (Figs. 20
and 22) which is held by means of a spring q in engagement with Q and which is
carried by a ring rotatably mounted on the disc 0, said ring 71 being caused to
rotate backwards and forwards by the arm m² acting on the rod q² jointed to the same
and to the ring. The cam groove o¹ is engaged by a roller p¹ of a slide p which is
guided in the direction of the button-hole in the collar or shoulder po (carrying the
dises o¹, 0, Q of the carriage S) and is provided on its under side with a carrier or
block p² that engages in a groove p³ of a slide pt. This slide p* is guided obliquely
in the adjustable ring px and engages with a block p in a guide groove po of a guide
piece p that is fixed on the slide P and is guided in the carriage S in the direction of
the button-hole, as shown in Fig. 24.
The slides p and pt thus control the movement imparted by means of the roller to
the slide P which thus receives a rectilinear intermittent motion in the direction of
the button-hole, whilst the carriage S moves to and fro with it at right angles to the
direction of the button-hole, in the manner necessary for producing the zig-zag
sewing stitches.
When the button hole, after one edge has been sewn, has reached the end position,
so that the end of the button hole is within the scope of action of the needle, the
barring operation begins by the connection of the lever m² with the carriage S being
broken, the said lever being brought into connection with a transmitting mechanism,
which is so arranged that it effects the periodical to and fro movement of the slide P
in the direction of the button-hole. The breaking of the connection between the
lever m² and the carriage S is effected by the lever m² receiving a rocking movement
by which the pin m³ is moved out of the recess m of the fillet m' so that the lever is
brought into connection at the same time with the aforesaid transmitting mechanism
by means of the pin n³ that is situated on its under-side.
The aforesaid rocking movement is imparted to the lever m² by means of a
lever 3 (Figure 28) which bears with a roller at its front end against the stop or
the fillet mx on the lever m* and is mounted on an axial pin that is held by the
supporting arm mounted on the carriage S and that extends upwardly above the
base-plate, and carries on its upper end a lever Figs. 20 and 21.
At the moment when the barring is to begin, that is to say, when the button-hole
is in an end position, one of the stops 10 mounted on the disc strikes against the
suitably bent nose at the front end of the lever 1, whereby the said lever receives an
outward rocking movement away from the disc 0 in such a manner that the lever (3
moves the lever m in the direction of the arrow Fig. 29. By this movement the
pin m³ moves out of me, whilst the pin enters the recess of a lever n which
forms a member of the aforesaid transmitting mechanism for the periodical to and fro
movement of the slide P in the direction of the double arrow III Fig. 20. The lever

page_text: n' is jointed at one end to the lever n³ pivoted to the base-plate, and at its other end
to one arm of a bent lever n' which is also pivoted to the base-plate and which is
connected by its other arm, by means of a pin 8 extending through the base-plate,
with a plater which plate is out of connection with the slide P during the sewing
of the edges but is connected positively therewith by means of a suitable coupling
mechanism during the barring operation. The plate is guided in the direction of
the button-hole at one end by means of the pin ns in a suitable slot g² in the base-
plate G¹ and at its other end by means of a slot no upon a pin n¹º, in such a manner
that the transmitting mechanism can impart to it a rectilinear to and fro motion in
the direction of the button-hole, that is to say, in the direction of the double arrow III
Fig. 20, when the connection is established between P and r.
This connection is established by means of the following mechanism :-
On the plate there is pivoted (to a support carried thereby) a lever ¹ which
extends through a slotted guide sleeve 20 mounted on the plate and which carries, at
the place where it passes through the sleeve, a downwardly-directed pin that is
guided in said sleeve 70 and that is capable with its lower end of entering a slot q³
either in the small plate g* or in the small plate q5. These two plates are both fixed
on a plate q which is fixed on the slide 1 Figs. 21 and 24. As soon as the pin
engages in one of these slots, the plate and the slide P are connected together and
this will take place when the barring period commences, that is to say, when one edge
has been sewn and the button hole is situated with one of its ends under the needle.
Now according as one or the other end is being barred, the pin will be moved into
the slot of the small plate q' or q³ these slots being a distance from each other at
their centres corresponding to the length of the button-hole.
In order that this distance may be adjusted or varied so as to enable button-holes
of different lengths to be operated upon, the said small plates are arranged adjust-
ably by being provided with slots 97 for set-screws 7. The plate q serves to
secure the position of the small plates in order to prevent them being shifted by the
pin 2, or being rotated about the screws qs, in the to and fro motion of the plate r.
The small plates project with their lower part into the recess 2x of the plate, and
their edges bear firmly against the edges of the recess. The lever 1 is under the
pressure of the spring f¹ and has at its front end a bent wire pin 3 under the upper
part of which there engages an arin that is mounted on an axle and which, being
acted upon by a torsion spring 2x, holds the lever normally against the pressure of
the spring during the sewing of the edges, in such a manner that the pin will
be in its higher position, that is to say, outside the slots q³. Upon the axle r³ there
is mounted a pin r which is held by the action of the spring 2x against a pawl r
which is pivoted so as to bear against the periphery of the disc O and is so situated
that as soon as the button-hole is in its end position, one of the diametrically-
arranged projections 10 will strike against it (the other one of the projections strikes,
as already mentioned, at the same inoment against the lever 7) thus causing it to
oscillate outward, so that the axle is rotated in such a manner as to cause the
arm to move downwards. By this means, the lever is released so that, following
the pressure of the spring f¹ it enters with its pin into one of the slots 3; it being
understood that the small plates q, q5 are so arranged on the slide P that when the
slide P is situated with the button-hole in the end position, one of the said small
plates will be situated with its slot underneath the pin 2. In this manner, the
slide P is connected with the plate that moves to and fro in the direction of the
button-hole during the barring operation, so that the button-hole will receive its
respective motions in the direction of the double arrow III, as soon as the harring is
terminated. That is to say, when the projection 10 has passed by the pawl 7 and the
lever l, the pawl returns into the initial position Fig. 21, whereby the arm again
lifts the lever with the pin 2 out of a slot q3 of one of the small plates, so that
the connection between P and is broken.
At the same time, the transmitting mechanism that actuates the plate r is thrown
out of action, because the lever returns again to its position shown in Figs. 20
and 21 in which the lever ³ releases the lever m*, so that the spring f can withdraw

page_text: the pin no out of the recess n of the lever n*, whereby the connection of the operating
lever ml with the transmitting mechanism n³, nt and n is broken.
The feed movement in the barring operation (at right angles to the button-hole) in
the direction of one of the arrows IV is effected by means of one of the stops t on the
5 disc O which strikes against the roller t laterally of the disc O.
This roller is mounted on a pin which exten is through a slot in the upper
carriage plate 8' and is bolted to the lower carriage plate s² (Fig. 21). The upper and
the lower carriage and plate are connected together so as to transmit power in a well-
known manner by means of springs and 5 so that during the sewing, the plates
move together as one and constitute the carriage, whilst these springs, which are
mounted in the lower plate and press against suitable fillets in the upper plate, keep
the plate s with its collar po pressed against the regulating screw to which is mounted
in the pin 2 so that the plate 2 that receives the motion, carries the plate s¹ with it
in both directions but as soon as the button-hole is situated in the end position, one
of the obliquely rising projections t strikes against the roller t¹ whereby the springs
are overcome and the upper carriage plate is moved together with the slid> according
to the rise or inclination of the projection t successively in one or the other direction,
indicated by the arrows IV. Now as in the barring the slide P is moved to and fro
in the direction of the button-hole indicated by the double arrow III, it will be
understood that by means of the above-described mechanism p7-p, the slide p will
move to and fro in its guide and thus also move to and fro the roller p₁ in the cam
groove o which effects the feed movement during the sewing in the manner stated as
indicated by the double arrow in Fig. 26. Therefore in the end position of the
button-hole, the roller p¹ is situated during the barring in one of the bent parts 2 or 4
of the heart-shaped cam groove which is composed in the well-known manner of two
symmetrical halves or parts 1 and 3.
In order now that the roller shall be able to execute the aforesaid to and fro
movements there is also the arrangement provided such that the discs 0 and 01
which in the former machines formed one part, are made as two separate parts in such
a manner that the disc 01 (provided with the cam groove o¹) which is connected
during the sewing with the dise O or with the wheel Q for the purpose of effecting
the feed movement, is enabled to execute relative movements in the direction of the
arrow (Fig. 26) during the barring. In this case, as in the first-described arrangement,
the connection of the two discs O and 0¹ is effected during the sewing of the edges
by means of a coupling mechanism, consisting of the bolts 02, 03 pivoted diametrically
on the disc 0. These bolts, when in the coupling position, in which they are held by
springs o5, embrace springs o' provided in the disc O¹ for which purpose they are
formed with suitable recesses o, o, into the former of which the pin enters when the
coupling is effected, whilst the latter affords play to the pin in the to and fro motion
of the disc 01 when the coupling is disconnected. The outer edges of the bolts
project beyond the edge of the disc ()¹. The disconnection of the coupling is effected,
at the moment when the locking begins, that is to say, when the button-hole is in
the end position, by the projecting edges of the bolts striking against the
diametrically-arranged rollers t₁ and os which, acting as abutments, press the
easily moveable bolts inwards so that the bolts with their recess 00 leave
the pins o, whereby the coupling is disconnected and the rigid connection
with o and O is broken, so that the disc O is able to share the to and fro
movements of the roller p¹, the plate p, or the slide P.
The coupling will of course remain disconnected so long as the barring continues,
when the barring is terminated the bolts will have passed the rollers and will be caused,
by the pressure of the spring, to snap again outwardly, so that they again hold firmly
the pin o* and consequently also the disc o itself.
In Figs. 31 and 32, the arrangement forming the subject of this invention is shown
applied, in a modified and more simple form of construction, to a machine of Wheeler
and Wilson type of the kind shown in the example of construction given in
Figs. 19-30.
In these figures, Fig. 31 is similar to Fig. 21 i.e., a plan of a part of the base-plate

page_text: with the appurtenant mechanisms, the ratchet wheel and the ratchet pawl support
being omitted. Fig. 32 shows the corresponding eccentric separately in underside
view. In this case the feed movement of the slide P, which carries the cloth-clamping
device, is effected during the sewing of the edges in such a manner, as has been
hereinbefore fully described, by means of a disc (in the present machine, the
eccentric o²) which is connected to the ratchet wheel Q and has a heart-shaped cam
groove o into which enters the roller p¹ of the slide P with which roller the slide P
is positively connected by the medium of intermediate slides, in such a manner that
by the successive rotation (produced by the step by step motion of the ratchet wheel)
of the eccentric, the slide P is moved step by step at right angles to the direction of
its length, that is to say in the direction of the button-hole.
As in the barring operation the slide P is moved to and fro in the direction of the
button-hole, that is to say at right angles to the direction of its length, then
obviously, in consequence of the positive connection of the same with the slide p, the
latter will move to and fro in its guide and consequently the roller pl will also move
to and fro in the cam groove that effects the feed motion during sewing in the
manner stated.
In this part of the operation, that is to say, at the end position of the button-hole,
during the barring operation the eccentric is situated so that the roller pl would be
located in one of the curved parts o", o10 of the heart-shaped cam groove which is
formed in the well-known manner, of two symmetrical concentric parts. Now in
order that the slide p, or its roller p¹ shall be able to execute the to and fro
movements there is again provided the extremely simple arrangement (forming
the important feature of the present invention) consisting in widening out the groove
at the said curved parts.
By this widening, the roller obtains sufficient play without its being necessary, as
in former constructions, to make the inner heart-shaped part of the eccentric
separate and moveable, there is provided an appreciable simplification of the
mechanisms which effect the coupling of the slide p with the plate consisting in
causing the pawl 7x which is held by the spring f³, and whose oscillation produces a
downward movement of the lever that carries the coupling pin 2, to engage
directly with a nose under the obliquely-arranged lever.
At the commencement of the barring operation, one of the stops 10 strikes upon a
pawl and moves the latter outward so that the obliquely and upwardly-arranged
lever which is held in its upward position by the nose during the sewing of the
edges, is enabled to move down under the influence of the spring so far that its
coupling pin 2 that is guided in the sleeve 70 will establish connection between the
reciprocating plate and the slide P.
Dated this und day of Manah 1000
W. LLOYD WISE,
46, Lincoln's Inn Fields, London, W.C., Chartered Patent Agent.
A communication from abroad by the FABRIK FÜR SPEZIAL NAHMASCHINEN
AKTIENGESELLSCHAFT (Patente JULIUS GUTMANN), of Zurich, Switzerland.
I, WILLIAM LLOYD WISE, of 46, Lincoln's Inn Fields, in the County of London,
Consulting Engineer and Chartered Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature of
this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed to be par-
ticularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :--
This invention relates to button-hole sewing-machines, and has for object to

page_text: produce improved apparatus for use in such machines for the purpose of enabling the
button-holes to be provided at the ends that are to be barred with barring stitches
that are parallel or approximately parallel to the direction of the button-hole, and at
right angles, or approximately at right angles, to the direction of the edge-sewing
stitches. The improved device is characterized, as compared with earlier devices, by
its extreme simplicity, which allows of its application, not only to machines of the
Gutmann type, but also to machines of other kinds-for instance, machines of the
Wheeler and Wilson and other similar types.
The drawings filed with my Provisional Specification illustrate various forms of
construction of this improved device by way of example.
Figs. 1 to 10 inclusive illustrate a machine of the Gutmann type, provided with a
device according to the present invention.
Fig. 1 shows the machine in front elevation ;
Figs. 2 is an underside view of the base-plate with the mechanism carried thereby,
the ratchet wheel being removed;
Fig. 3 is a plan of the base-plate with adjacent parts;
Fig. 4 is a vertical longitudinal section showing the base-plate with the feeding-
mechanism;
Fig. 4 is a diagrammatic representation of a button-hole with its edge and barring
stitches;
Fig. 5 shows a vertical cross-section through the base-plate and feeding-
mechanism;
Fig. 6 is a plan of the ratchet-wheel and the heart-shaped cam;
Fig. 7 is a vertical cross-section of both these parts corresponding to the
line of Fig. 6 ;
and
Fig. 8 is a plan of the ratchet-wheel, with the heart-shaped cam removed;
Figs. 9 and 10 show the heart-shaped cam separately, respectively in plan and in
cross-section on the line y y of Fig. 9.
The machine has a swinging needle-that is to say, a needle that has imparted to
it, during the sewing of the edges, in addition to its up-and-down motion, a lateral
oscillatory motion at right angles to the button-hole, for the purpose of producing
the zig-zag sewing-stitches-whilst the slide that carries the presser-foot or cloth-
clamp has imparted to it, during the sewing of these edges, a feeding motion solely
in the direction of the button-hole.
The machine is constructed in such a manner that the barring of the button-hole,
as already mentioned, is effected by means of stitches that are at right angles, or
approximately at right angles, to the edge-sewing stitches-that is to say, parallel
to the direction of the button-hole. This is produced by stopping the needle during
the barring operation as regards its lateral movements, so that it can only make
vertical up-and-down movements, whilst the presser-foot or cloth-feeding device,
together with the cloth, receives to-and-fro movements in the direction of the button-
hole, and also a step-by-step feed at right angles to the button-hole. The carrier d
carrying the cloth-clamp D is arranged, for the purpose of producing the
movements above mentioned, in the lower plate 4 (which is moved at right
angles to the direction of the button-hole in guides h², 13, fixed to the base-plate) so
as to be capable of movement at right angles to the direction of motion of the
plate that is to say, in the direction of the button-hole. In sewing the edges of
the hole, the feeding is effected by the movement of this part d by means of a bent
arn and a link of which the latter is mounted on a pin 62, and the arm bis
attached to the pin 7 of the upper carriage . The bent arm b and the lever 6* are
connected by means of a clip having a stud that engages in the slot 5³ of
the lever in such a manner as to produce a firm connexion and also to enable
the said arm and lever to be relatively adjusted. The lever-mechanism is operated
in a usual manner by a cam-groove in the ratchet-wheel c, which is continually
rotated, step-by-step, by means of a pawl-lever at that is under the action of a
spring a, is provided with a pawl a³, and receives its motion from a secondary

page_text: shaft by means of a cam a, and lever-mechanism a¹, a² provided with a guide-
rod a³. The needle-bar frame g, which oscillates during the sewing of the edges
of the hole, is stopped during the barring by means of a stop-piece e, which
noves laterally against the same and is mounted on a rod et connected to a
two-armed lever es, which is mounted so as to oscillate in the base-plate, and
carries on its free arm a roller e¹ through which the lever receives its stroke
(that causes the motion of the connecting rod e) by means of stops c on the
inner edge of the ratchet-wheel c³.
The to-and-fro movements of the upper carriage d³ with the cloth-clamp D in
the direction of the button-hole for the purpose of producing the barring stitches,
is effected, in a manner similar to that previously employed, by means of a
lever which is mounted on a pin fo and receives continuously to-and-fro move-
ments through the medium of lever-mechanism ƒ³, f2, f¹ from a cam f' that is
mounted on the shaft w¹ and has a cam-groove f³, the carriage ds, as soon as the
barring begins, being connected to f by means of a coupling pin e, which is
moved vertically in a sleeve e³ and is raised by means of projections e² on the
inner side of the ratchet-wheel c5 and enters a slot d² in the plate d', or the slot d* in
the sinal plate d³ mounted on the plate d¹.
Thus far, the mechanisms described are constructed as hitherto, but the device
according to this invention is constructed in such a manner that, during the to-and-
fro move:nents of the upper carriage in the barring operation, the lever-mechanism bb
which is always connected to the carriage, and consequently also the roller b¹, which
is situated in the cam-groove cs, are capable of sharing the to-and-fro movements of
the carriage ³. In former constructions, on the contrary, the mechanism that
produces the motion of the carriage during the sewing of the edges, does
not, as is well known, share the to-and-fro movement of the carriage during
barring, because the construction in that case renders such sharing of the
movement impossible, but the actuating mechanism is so constructed and is
connected with a coupling mechanism in such a manner that as soon as the
barring begins, the connexion between the carriage and the actuating mechanism is
interrupted; after the barring, the connection is again established. This arrange-
ment naturally renders the construction of the machine or its actuating mechanism
comparatively complicated, and necessitates a special coupling mechanism and also a
device for actuating the same. Now, according to the present invention, the
actuating mechanism remains in connexion with the carriage d during the barring
operation, the construction being such that the actuating mechanism is capable of
partaking of the to-and-fro movements of the carriage. In this way considerable
simplification in the construction of the actuating mechanism is effected, and the
coupling device and its actuating mechanism are rendered unnecessary.
The improved construction now consists in that the cam-piece c formed with the
cam-groovec (the so-called heart-shaped cam) is not, as formerly, made inseparable
from the ratchet-wheel c, but constitutes a separate part, which, during the sewing
of the edges, is rigidly connected to the ratchet-wheel, but is disconnected therefrom
during the barring operation so that it can be moved by the roller of the lever-
mechanism that reciprocates with the carriage . The connexion between the
cam-piece and the ratchet-wheel is effected by means of a barring-mechanism com-
prising two catches c, c¹ which are attached to the inner side of the ratchet-wheel,
are under the action of springs c², and have recesses c* in which can engage pins c¹
which project from the cam-piece c' towards the inner side of the ratchet-wheel, in
such a manner that the catches thereby hold the cam-piece fixed. The disconnexion
at the commencement of the barring operation is effected by the fact that the
catches C, c¹ which project laterally from the ratchet wheel, strike against rollers h, h¹,
which are fixed to the carriage ht and to the base-plate G respectively, which project
into the annular groove c¹2 between the outer edge of the cam-piece c7 and the pro-
jecting edge c¹³ of the ratchet-wheel, and against which the outer edges of the heads
of the catches c, c¹ strike. Whilst these edges, during the rotation of the wheel,
slide along the rollers, the catches are pressed inwards, whereby the pins c¹ are

page_text: released from the recesses o**. The catches are then in such a position that the pins
project into recesses ³, which allow them sufficient space for their to-and-fro move-
ments, so that the cam-piece can execute without hindrance the aforesaid to-and-fro
movements. During these movements, the rectilinear guidance of the cam-piece is
effected by means of fillets c, which are bolted to the cam-piece and are inserted in
suitable recesses cx in the ratchet-wheel. These fillets are preferably made of dove-
tail shape, or with a taper as shown in Fig. 7, so that the cam-piece is held by the
ratchet-wheel without hindrance to the said movements. The catches remain out of
gear during the barring, because the outer edges of their heads that strike against
the rollers h, h¹ are of such a length that the catches will remain in contact with the
rollers h¹ during this part of the operation. The arrangement is such that as soon
as the barring is finished (that is to say, when the connexion of f with d is undone
and the stopping of the needle-frame ceases in consequence respectively of the facts
that the corresponding projection e2 has passed the pin and the corresponding pro-
jection c³ has passed the roller e¹) the outer edges of the catches also have passed
the rollers, so that the catches can be again pressed outwards by the springs c² in
order to lock the pins c¹ in the recesses cx of the cam-piece and thereby to hold the
latter firmly. The cam-piece c7 is provided with recesses cx, c¹x, which are suitable
for the catches and in which the latter move. The hole co in the cam-piece into which
the sleeve of the ratchet-wheel e projects, is made longer than broad, to suit the
to-and-fro movement of the cam-piece.
A modification of detail is shown in Figs. 11 to 15 inclusive, in which there is
arranged upen the inner side (which is formed with a cam-groove) of the ratchet-
wheel, a plate which has the guide-curve proper, is movable by spring action, and is
capable of sharing the to-and-fro movements of the carriage or of the actuating
mechanism, whilst the curved groove in the ratchet-wheel is formed with recesses
for the purpose of allowing the roller the necessary play.
Fig. 11 is a plan of the ratchet-wheel with the plate;
Fig. 12 is a vertical cross-section corresponding to the line of Fig. 11;
Fig. 13 shows the ratchet-wheel separately, the plate being removed;
Fig. 14 shows the plate alone, in plan; and
Fig. 15 the same in vertical section on the line u u of Fig. 14.
On the inside of the ratchet-wheel , which has a cam-groove it corresponding to
the guide-curve, there is mounted a plate , which has a curved slot is that forms
the guide-curve proper for the actuating mechanism that produces the feed during the
sewing operation. The plate is arranged on the ratchet-wheel in such a
manner that during the sewing of the edges it is held fast by means of springs i, i¹
that are carried by the ratchet-wheel and act laterally upon the edges of
the plate whilst the guide-slot 13 and the cam-groove into which the roller of the
actuating mechanism projects, are one over the other. At the place where the roller
stops during the barring operation, the cam-groove it in the ratchet-wheel is formed
with suitable recesses 2*, 25x, which allow the roller to have play for its to-and-fro
motion. During this to-and-fro motion the power of the springs i, ¹ is overcome,
so that the plate can be reciprocated by the roller of the actuating mechanism.
The rectilinear guidance of the plate is effected by means of a fillet, which is
capable of sliding in a suitable recess 20x in the ratchet-wheel, and which, being bolted
to the plate, also serves to hold the plate together, the plate being divided by the
curved slot 8 into an inner and an outer part. At the place which is situated in the
curved groove is, the fillet is, of course, provided with a notch ix for the purpose of
allowing the passage of the roller, which, as above stated, projects into the cam-
groove. The plate is held on the ratchet-wheel by means of screws ², the plate
being provided with slots i³ for the passage of the screws in order to have free play
in its to-and-fro motion. For the same purpose, the hole 10 made in the
inner part of the plate for the hub 10 of the ratchet-wheel, is widened out on both sides.
In the construction shown in Figs. 1 to 10 inclusive, as also in the modification
just described, the rim c¹³, or 3, of the ratchet-wheel is formed on its inner side with
recesses c¹¹, or ", which, during the barring operation, effect the feed at right angles

page_text: to the button-hole by acting upon the roller located on the carriage h
In these movements, the roller is kept (by means of spiral springs
(Fig. 2) acting upon the carriage and mounted on pins g¹) pressed against the inner
side of the rim c3 or 13 which effects the intermittent feed by reason of the shape of
its recesses c¹l or 1. As shown in Figs. 6 and 11, the rim is made thicker on one
half than on the other half to an extent corresponding to the width of the button-
hole-i.e., the distance of the two edge seams from each other-for the purpose of
producing the two different positions of the carriage h*.
Figs. 16, 17, and 18 illustrate a considerably simpler form of construction of the
new device applied to a machine of the same type as that shown in Figs. 1 to 15
inclusive; Fig. 16 being a front elevation of the machine, partly in section, Fig. 17
an underside view of the base-plate, the ratchet wheel being removed; and Fig. 18 a
plan of the ratchet wheel alone.
The carriage d' that carries the cloth-clamp or presser foot D is, as hereinbefore
described, capable of moving in a second carriage ' (which is guided at right
angles to the direction of the button-hole, by guide-cheeks h2, h3) at right angles
to the direction of motion of the part that is to say, in the direction of the
button-hole. The feeding, in sewing in the direction of the button-hole, is effected
by moving this part d by means of lever-mechanism 68, 69, 10, 12, 61, the
link of which engages with the pin 616 of the upper carriage d³, whilst the
lever s that carries the roller 61 is rotatably mounted on a pin 68x that is screwed
into the base-plate G. The lever 60 is connected with the lever 68 by means of the
intermediate part 9, whilst the link 6 engages with the lever 612 at 615. The
levers 1 and 2 are both rotatably mounted on pins fixed to the base-plate and are
over the other and through
provided with slots 611 and 613, which are located one
which extends a screw, which is adjustably fixed to the lever 610, is free to move
to connect the two levers. The
along the slot in the lever 612, and serves
slots 611 and 13 allow of the adjustment of the lever-mechanism so that its leverage
can be altered according to requirement--i.e., according to the length of the button-hole
to be produced. The lever-mechanism is actuated in the usual manner by means of
a heart-shaped cam-groove c³ in the ratchet wheel c5, in which engages the roller 1
mounted on the lever 68. The ratchet-wheel is actuated by means of the pawl-
lever at, which carries the pawl a', is under the action of the spring a, and receives its
step-by-step motion from the shaft w by means of the cam a and the lever-
mechanism, 2 which is provided with a guide-rod a³.
In the herein before described construction shown in Figs. 1 to 15 inclusive, the
inner cam-piece-that is to say, the so-called heart-shaped cam provided with a cam-
groove is made as a separate movable part which is rigidly connected to the
ratchet-wheel during the sewing of the edges, but which is disconnected therefrom
during barring, in such a manner that the said cam-piece can be carried along by the
lever-mechanism that moves to and fro with the carriage. Now, on the contrary, in
the machine shown in Figs. 16, 17, and 18 there is employed the extremely simple
and efficient device that in the cain-piece cx, which is rigidly connected with the
ratchet-wheel and is preferably made in one piece therewith, the curved groove c³ is
widened out concentrically, in accordance with the path of the roller during the
to-and-fro movement of the carriage, at those places c¹ and cat which the roller b¹
is situated during the barring operation so that the roller 61 has space for free
movement.
In this machine there is further provided a novel device which further increases the
efficiency of the machine-viz., the mechanism that produces the feeding during the
barring operation is so constructed that the amount of the feed can be altered, within
certain limits, according to requirement.
The roller h, which is operated by the variations c¹ in the shape of the inner
periphery of the ring c¹³ on the ratchet-wheel c and which, in the former constructions,
was fastened directly to the lower carriage or to a projection thereof, is now
mounted on a lever , which is pivotally fixed at h on the base-plate G and has a
slot h³ in which engages a part of a lever h³ connected to the carriage h¹ at h8. Now,

page_text: by shifting the said part of the lever h in the slot hx, the operative length of the
lever hand consequently the leverage of the saine can be altered. The alteration of
the leverage, as is readily perceived, produced an alteration in the amount of the feed
of the carriage-and therefore of the feed-movement of the button-hole portion of
the cloth-during the barring operation, whereby an alteration is also made in the
distance between the edge-seams and consequently in the width of the button-hole.
The arrangement is of considerable importance, inasmuch as it enables the edge-seams
to be shifted away from each other according to requirement, or, in the case of a
wide seaming of the edges, enables the two edge seans to be prevented from being
sewn one over the other or overlapping.
Figs. 19 to 30 inclusive illustrate a button hole machine which is provided with a
modified form of device according to the present invention and which, as to its
general arrangement, is of the Wheeler and Wilson type. In these figures, Fig. 19 is
a front elevation of the machine.
Fig. 20 shows the machine in plan, the upper portion of the machine-that is to
say the frame with the overhanging arin and the appurtenant mechanisms being
removed.
Fig. 21 is a plan drawn to a larger scale, of a part of the base-plate with the
appurtenant nechanisms, the ratchet wheel and the ratchet-pawl support being
removed.
Fig. 22 is a plan of the annular ratchet-pawl support and its connecting-rod.
Fig. 23 shows the parts shown in plan in Fig. 21 as seen from the left hand side.
Fig. 24 is a detailed plan of the base-plate and the carriage.
Figs. 25, 26 and 27 show the can-disc with the movable heart-shaped eam in plan,
underside view, and in front elevation respectively.
Fig. 28 is an underside view of the base-plate with the appurtenant mechanisms
drawn to the same scale as Fig. 21.
Fig. 29 shows a portion of the mechanism shown in Fig. 28 in another working
position; and
Fig. 30 shows a vertical longitudinal section on the line vv of Fig. 29, seen in the
direction indicated by the arrow.
In this machine, the barring is again effected by moving the cloth carriage (that
is to say, the supporting slide carrying the cloth-clamping device) to and fro in the
direction of the button-hole, as soon as the button-hole has reached an end position,
and at the same time the said carriage also receives a short feed-movement at right
angles to the button-hole, whilst the needle moves vertically up and down. Unlike
the arrangement previously described, this machine has a needle that works only
vertically that is to say, a needle that, during the sewing of the edges, has solely
a vertical up and down motion during the sewing of the edges-whilst the material
receives the to-and-fro movements (necessary for producing zig-zag sewing-stitches)
at right angles to the direction of the button-hole, the material having, of course, at
the same time also a uniform feed-movement in the direction of the button-hole.
The cloth-clamping device is so arranged that the button-hole is situated across the
longitudinal direction of the base-plate, as shown in Fig. 20. The slide P that
carries the cloth-clamping device K¹ thus receives, for the purpose of sewing the
edges, to-and-fro movements in the direction of the double arrow I and a uniform
feed-movement in the direction of one of the arrows II; but for the purpose of
barring, it receives to-and-fro movements in the direction of the double arrow III
and a uniforın feed-movement in the direction of one of the arrows IV. The device
for driving the various mechanisms that produce the said movements, consists of the
cam M (Figs. 19 and 20), which is mounted on the main shaft and is provided in
the usual manner with intersecting cam-grooves, the walls of which act upon a double
lever mm², which is fixed so as to be capable of moving on a pin mo on the base-
plate, and whose arm m³ carries at its outer end a pin m, which engages in the cam-
grooves, whereby the lever m² m² is caused, during the rotation of the disc M, to
move to and fro continuously about its pivot mº. In sewing, these oscillatory move-
ments produce to-and-fro movements of the carriage S (in which the cloth-slide is

page_text: held) by means of a lever mt, which is jointed to the lever m¹ and carries, on its side
facing the base plate, a pin mo that is held, by means of a spring f, in engagement
with a suitable recess m³ of a fillet m arranged on the underside of S (Figs. 29
and 30). In this manner the oscillatory motion of the lever mis transmitted to
the carriage S, which is guided rectilinearly at right angles to the direction of the
button-hole, and which, carrying the slide P with it, moves the button-hole to and
fro in the direction indicated. The relative working positions of the parts in this
movement are shown in Figs. 29 and 30. The feed-movement during the sewing
that is to say, the movement of the cloth-slide P in the direction of the arrows II
(Fig. 20) is effected by means of a disc 01, which is provided with a suitably-
shaped cam-groove o¹ and is coupled fast, during the sewing operation, to a disc O
in a manner similar to that used for the corresponding disc in the machine first
described, the disc O being in turn fixed to a ratchet wheel Q. The ratchet-wheel Q
is moved intermittently by means of a ratchet-pawl Q¹ (Figs. 20 and 22), which is
held by means of a spring q in engagement with Q and is carried by a ring q
rotatably mounted on the disc O, the ring q¹ being caused to rotate backwards and
forwards by the arm m² acting on a rod g² jointed to the same and to the ring. The
cam-groove o¹ is engaged in by a roller p¹ of a slide p, which is guided in the direction
of the button-hole in an annular projection 100 carrying the discs 01, 0 and ratchet
wheel Q, of the carriage S and is provided on its underside with a carrier or block p²
that engages in a groove ³ of a slide pt. This slide 2 is guided obliquely in an
adjustable ring px and engages by means of a block p³, in a guide-groove p of a
guide-piece p that is fixed on the slide P and is guided in the carriage S in the
direction of the button-hole, as shown in Fig. 24. The movement imparted to the
roller is thus transferred through the slides p and p to the slide P, which thus
receives a rectilinear intermittent motion in the direction of the button-hole, whilst
the carriage S moves to and fro with it at right angles to the direction of
the button-hole, in the manner necessary for producing the zig-zag sewing-
stitches.
When the button-hole, after one edge has been sewn, has reached the end position,
so that the end of the button-hole is within the scope of action of the needle, the
harring operation begins, since the connexion of the lever m* with the carriage S
is broken and the said lever is brought into connexion with a transmitting mechanism,
which is so arranged that it effects the periodical to-and-fro movement of the slide P
in the direction of the button-hole. The breaking of the connexion between the
lever m and the carriage S is effected by the oscillation of the lever m so as to move
the pin m³ out of the recess m of the fillet m and at the same time to bring the
lever into connexion with the aforesaid transmitting mechanism by ineans of a pin n
that is situated on its underside. This oscillation of the lever m is effected by means
of a lever 3 (Fig. 28), which bears by means of a roller at its outer end against
a stop or fillet mx on the lever m* and is fixed on a rotatable pin 12, which is held
by the supporting arm mounted on the carriage S, extends upwardly above the
hase-plate, and carries on its upper end a lever 1 (Figs. 20 and 21). At the moment
when the barring is to begin-that is to say, when the button hole is in an end posi-
tion-one of the projections 10 on the disc ( strikes against the suitably bent nose at 4
the outer end of the lever 1, whereby the said lever receives an outward oscillation
away from the disc O such that the lever 13 moves the lever m in the direction
indicated by the arrow in Fig. 29. By this movement the pin m³ is moved out of mo,
whilst the pin 25 is caused to enter a recess n of a lever n which forms a member
of the aforesaid transmitting mechanism for the periodical to-and-fro movement of 5
of the slide P in the direction indicated by the double arrow III in Fig. 20. The
lever n is jointed at one end to a lever n³ pivoted to the base-plate, and at its other
end to one arm of a bent lever n', which is also pivoted to the base-plate and is
connected by its other arm, by means of a pin n³ extending through the base-plate, with
a plate which is out of connexion with the slide P during the sewing of the edges but 5
is connected postively therewith by means of a suitable coupling mechanism during
the barring operation. The plate is guided in the direction of the button-hole at one

page_text: end by means of the pin n³ engaging in a suitable slot g in the base-plate G¹ and at
its other end by means of a pin no engaging in a slot n³, in such a manner that the
transmitting mechanism can impart to it a rectilinear to-and-fro movement in the
direction of the button-hole-that is to say, in the direction indicated by the double
arrow III in Fig. 20-when the connexion is established between P and . This
connexion is established by means of the following mechanism :-On the plater there
is pivoted (to a support carried thereby) a lever r¹, which extends through a slotted
guide-sleeve mounted on the plate and carries, at the place where it passes through
the sleeve, a downwardly directed pin 2 that is guided in the sleeve 70 and is capable
of entering, with its lower end, a slot q3 either in the small plate q* or in the small
plate 95. These two small plates are both fixed on a plate q6, which is fixed on the
slide P (Figs. 21 and 24). As soon as the pin engages in one of these slots, the
plate and the slide P are connected together and this takes place when the barring
period commences-that is to say, when one edge has been sewn and the button-hole
is situated with one of its ends under the needle. Now according as one or the other
end is being barred, the pin is moved into the slot q3 of the small plate q' or that of
the small plate q5; the centres of these slots are, of course, at a distance from each
other equal to the length of the button-hole. In order that this distance may be
adjusted or varied so as to enable button-holes of different lengths to be operated
upon, the said small plates are made adjustable by being provided with slots q' for
the set-screws q8. The plate qe serves to secure the position of the small plates in
order to prevent them from being shifted by the pin 2-being rotated about the
screws q in the to-and-fro motion of the plate r. The small plates project with
their lower part into the recess 9x of this plate, and their edges bear firmly against
the edges of the recess. The lever is under the pressure of a spring f1 and has at
its front end a bent wire pin under the upper part of which there engages an
arm, which is mounted on an axle 5 and which, being acted upon by a torsion
spring 2, holds the lever normally against the pressure of the spring f¹ during the
sewing of the edges, in such a manner that the pin 2 is in its higher position--that
is to say, out of the slots q³. Upon the axle 75 there is mounted a pin 6 which is
held by the action of the spring f2 against a pawl 7 which is pivoted so as to bear
against the periphery of the disc O and is so situated that as soon as the button-
hole is in its end position, one of the diametrically arranged projections to strikes
against it (the other one of the projections strikes, as already mentioned, at the same
moment against the lever ), thus causing it to oscillate outward, so that the axle 75
is rotated in such a manner as to cause the arm 4 to move downwards. By this
means the lever is released so that, following the pressure of the spring f¹, it causes
its pin 2 to enter one of the slots q³, the small plates 24, 9 being so arranged on the
slide P that when the slide P is situated with the button-hole in the end position, one
of the said small plates will be situated with its slot underneath the pin 2. In this
imanner, the slide P is connected with the plater that moves to and fro in the
direction of the button-hole during the barring operation, so that the button-hole
will receive its corresponding motion in the direction indicated by the double arrow III.
As soon as the barring is terminated-i.e., when the projections 10 have passed the
pawl and the lever 1, the pawl returns into the initial position shown in Fig. 21, in
consequence of which the arm 4 again lifts the lever and thus raises the pin r2 out
of the slot q3 of one of the small plates, so that the connexion between P and r is
broken.
At the same time, the transmitting mechanism that actuates the plate ŕ is thrown
out of action, because the lever returns again to its position shown in Figs. 20
and 21 in which the lever 13 releases the lever m', so that the spring f can withdraw
the pin n³ out of the recess n of the lever nt, and so break the connexion between
the operating lever m¹ and the transmitting mechanism n³ n* n.
During the barring operation the feeding at right angles to the button-hole-i.e.,
in the direction indicated by one of the arrows IV-is effected by means of one of
the projections t on the disc O, which strikes against a roller t¹ at one side of the
disc O. This roller is mounted on a pin t2, which extends through a slot ts in the

page_text: upper carriage-plate 8 and is bolted to the lower carriage-plate 82 (Fig. 21).
The upper and lower carriage-plates are connected together so as to transinit power
in a well-known manner by means of springs and to so that during the sewing, the
plates move together as one and constitute the carriage S, whilst these springs, which are
mounted in the lower plate and press against suitable fillets in the upper plate keep the
annular piece 2° of the plate s¹ pressed against a regulating screw t", which is mounted
in the pin 2 so that the plate 82 that receives the motion, carries the plate 8¹ with
it in both directions; but as soon as the button-hole is situated in the end position,
one of the oblique projections t strikes against the roller t¹, whereby the springs are
overcome, and the upper carriage-plate is moved together with the slide, according
to the inclination of the projection t in one or the other of the directions indicated by
the arrows IV. Now, as in the barring the slide P is moved to and fro in the direction
of the button-hole indicated by the double arrow III, it will be understood that by
means of the herein before described mechanism p-p, the slide p will be moved to
and fro in its guide and will consequently move to and fro, as indicated by the
double arrow in Fig. 26, the roller p which is located in the cam-groove o¹ that
effects the feed-movement during the edge-sewing in the manner stated. Therefore
in the end position of the button-hole, the roller p¹ is situated, during the barring,
in one of the bent parts 2 or 4 of the heart-shaped cam-groove, which is composed in
the well-known manner of two symmetrical halves or parts 1 and 3.
In order,
now, that the roller shall be able to execute the aforesaid to-and-fro movements, the
discs O and O¹ which in prior machines have formed a rigid whole, are made as two
separate parts so that the disc O¹, which is provided with the cam-groove o¹ and which
is connected during the edge-sewing with the disc or with the wheel Q for the
purpose of effecting the feed-movement, is enabled to execute relative movements in
the direction indicated by the arrow in Fig. 26 during the barring. In this case, as
in the first described arrangement, the connexion of the two discs Ŏ and O¹ is effected
during the sewing of the edges by means of a coupling mechanism comprising
catches o², 03 pivoted diametrically opposite to each other on the disc O. These
catches, when in the coupling position, in which they are held by springs o³, embrace
pins of provided in the disc 01, for which purpose they are formed with suitable
recesses o, o, into the former of which the pin enters when the coupling is effected,
whilst the latter affords play to the pin in the to-and-fro movement of the disc 0,
when the coupling is disconnected. The outer edges of the catches project beyond
the edge of the disc 0¹. The disconnexion of the coupling is effected, at the moment
when the barring begins-that is to say, when the button-hole is in an end position,
-by the striking of the projecting edges of the catches against the diametrically-
arranged rollers t¹ and os which, acting as abutinents, press the easily movable catches
inwards so that the recesses o" of the catches leave the pins o, whereby the coupling
is undone and the connexion between O¹ and () is broken, so that the disc O' is able
to share the to-and-fro movements of the roller pl, the plate p, or the slide P. The
coupling of course remains undone so long as the barring continues; when the barring
is terminated the catches have passed the rollers and are caused, by the pressure of
the springs, to snap again outwardly, so that they again hold firmly the pins o* and
consequently also the disc O' itself.
In Figs. 31 and 32, the device according to this invention is shown applied, in a
modified and more simple form of construction, to a machine of Wheeler and Wilson
type of the kind shown in the example represented in Figs. 19 to 30 inclusive.
In these figures, Fig. 31 is similar to Fig. 21-i.e., a plan of a part of the base-
plate with the appurtenant mechanisms, the ratchet-wheel and the ratchet-pawl
support being omitted; and Fig. 32 shows the corresponding cam separately in
underside view.
In this case the feed-movement of the slide P that carries the cloth-clamping
device, is effected, during the sewing of the edges, as has been herein before fully
described, by means of a disc (in the present machine, the cam 02) which is connected
to the ratchet-wheel Q and has a heart-shaped cam-groove o¹, in which engages the
roller p¹ of a slide with which the slide P is positively connected through the medium

page_text: of intermediate slides, in such a manner that by the successive rotation (produced by
the step-by-step motion of the ratchet-wheel) of the cam, the slide P is moved step
by step at right angles to the direction of its length-that is to say, in the direction
of the button-hole.
As in the barring operation, the slide P is moved to and fro in the direction of the
button-hole that is to say, at right angles to the direction of its length-then
obviously, in consequence of the positive connexion of the same with the slide p, the
latter will move to and fro in its guide and consequently the roller p will also nove
to and fro whilst located in the cam-groove that effects the feeding during the edge-
sewing in the manner stated.
In this part of the operation--that is to say, during the end position of the
button-hole and during the barring operation-the cam is situated so that the
roller is located in one of the recesses o°, 10 of the heart-shaped cam-groove,
which is formed, in the well-known manner, of two symmetrical parts. Now in
order that the slide p, or its roller 2, shall be able to execute the to-and-fro
movements, there is again provided the extremely simple device (formning the
important feature of the present invention) consisting in widening out the groove
at the said recesses. By this widening, the roller obtains sufficient play without
its being necessary, as in former construction, to make the inner heart-shaped
part of the cam separate and movable.
There is further provided an appreciable simplification of the mechanisms that
effect the coupling of the slide p with the plate inasmuch as the pawl x, which is
held by the spring f³, and whose oscillation produces a downward movement of the
lever that carries the coupling pin r2, is cause 1 to engage directly, by means of a
nose, under the obliquely arranged lever 1. At the commencement of the barring
operation one of the stops to strikes upon the pawl and moves the latter onward so
that the obliquely and upwardly arranged lever, which is held in its upward position
by the nose during the sewing of the edges, is enabled to move down under
the influence of the spring f¹ so far that its coupling pin 12 that is guided in
the sleeve, establishes connexion between the reciprocating plate and the
slide P.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is
1. A button-hole sewing-machine adapted to provide a button-hole with barring
the stitches of which are at right angles, or approximately at right angles, to the
edge-stitches and parallel, or approximately parallel, to the direction of the button-
hole, in which the cam whose guide-groove operates the actuating mechanism that
effects the feed-movement of the cloth-clamp carriage during the edge-sewing and is
constantly connected to the cloth-clamp carriage, is so arranged that in the barring-
operation, when the cloth-clamp carriage is moved to and fro at right angles to the
direction of its motion during the edge-sewing the said actuating nechanism, which
also shares these movements and is constantly connected to the guide-groove of
the cam,
has no resistance offered to its motion by the can.
2. A button-hole sewing machine according to the preceding claim, wherein the
cam having the guide-groove is so connected to the ratchet-wheel that produces the
rotary motion of the said cam, that the cam remains fixed in relation to the said
ratchet-wheel during the sewing of the edges of the button-hole but during the
barring the cam becomes movable so as to be able to share the to-and-fro movements
of the cloth-clamp carriage or of the actuating mechanisın connected therewith.
3. A button-hole sewing machine according to Claim 1 in which the guide-groove
of the cam is so formed with enlargements at those places at which is situated that
part of the actuating mechanism that is in direct connexion, or in engagement,
therewith, that the said part of the actuating mechanism has freedom of motion
during the barring-operation, when the said mechanism shares the to-and-fro move-
ments of the cloth-clamp carriage.

page_text: 4. In a button-hole sewing machine in which, for producing the barring, the cloth
clamp is moved at right angles to the longitudinal direction of the button-hole by the
action of a cam upon a roller connected to a carriage carrying the cloth clamp,
the connexion of the said carriage to the said roller by means of a lever h³ pivoted to
the base-plate G and a lever which is pivoted to the said carriage and a part of
which engages in a slot 5x in the lever h³, so that by shifting the said part of the
lever in the slot h³x the feed movement of the carriage during the barring operation
can be varied.
5. Button-hole sewing-machine feed-mechanism constructed, arranged, and
operating as herein before described with reference to and shown in Figs. 1 to 10
inclusive of the drawings referred to; and the same as modified according to Figs. 11
to 15 inclusive and Figs. 16, 17 and 18 respectively thereof.
6. Button-hole sewing machine feed-mechanism constructed, arranged, and
operating as hereinbefore described with reference to and shown in Figs. 19 to 30
inclusive of the drawings referred to, and the same as modified according to Figs. 31
and 32 thereof.
Dated this Olst day of January 1800
W. LLOYD WISE,
46, Lincoln's Inn Fields, London, W.C., Chartered Patent Agent.