An Improvement in the Manufacture of Boots, Shoes, and Slippers.
Year: 1892

page_text: Date of Application, 13th Jan., 1892
Complete Specification Left, 8th Oct., 1892-Accepted, 12th Nov., 1892
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
An Improvement in the Manufacture of Boots, Shoes, and Slippers.
HENRY SEXTON Fishgate Street Norwich Boot & Shoe Manufacturer do
hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows :-
A process of sewing the soles of boots shoes and slippers whereby the edges
of the uppers become outside of the boots shoes or slippers & the sewing thus
visible on the uppers.
Dated thin 10th day of Januar 1905
HENRY SEXTON.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
An Improvement in the Manufacture of Boots, Shoes, and Slippers.
I, HENRY SEXTON, of Fishgate Street, Norwich, in the County of Norfolk,
Boot and Shoe Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this inven-.
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
This invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of boots, shoes, and
slippers, and its object is to provide for the uppers being quickly and readily
attached to the soles by sewing as hereafter described.
According to this invention after the upper has been placed over the last, the
edges of the upper are turned outwards and sewn by machinery onto the soles
around the edges thereof.
In the drawings
Fig. 1 is a side elevation; Fig. 2 a longitudinal section, Fig. 3, a transverse
ection on line a Fig. 2; and Fig. 4 a plan looking at the bottom, all showing a
shoe constructed according to this invention.
A is the upper which is cut and sewn together in the usual manner. B is the
sole in which may (or may not) be cut a channel b at a suitable distance from
the edge b', and the channel is made to extend all round the sole as shown at
Fig. 4.
C is the heel which is built up in layers and attached to sole by rivets in
the usual manner.
The upper A is placed upon a last and held thercon by tacks placed at suitable
distances apart and from the edge a of the upper. Instead of turning the edge a
of the upper inwards and over the sole of the last, as is usually done in the
ordinary way of lasting, the edge a is turned outwards and is visible on the outside
of the sole, that is to say, the whole of the edge a is turned outwards at or about
a right angle to the main part of the upper as shown at Figs. 1, 2 and 3; when
this has been done the channelled sole B is placed upon the sole of the last and
held in position by tacks in the usual manner.
The upper A and sole B are then sewn together by any suitable chain or
lockstitch machine, such as for instance a Blake or Goodyear machine, the line of
stitching D being arranged to be within the channel b and to commence at or about
the point marked d (see Fig. 4) and to run all round the sole in the direction of
arrows, that is, the line of stitches commences at d at the waist, and then passes
round the forepart to the waist on the opposite side of the sole and round the heel
of the boot, shoe or slipper until d is again reached or vice versa; thereby
completely sewing the upper to the sole, and allowing the line of stitches to be
visible on the upper surface, as in fair stitching.
i.

page_text: After the sewing operation has been performed by machinery the channel b
may be closed and the boot, shoe, or slipper finished in the ordinary manner.
When the uppers are sewn to the soles in the above described manner, not only
are the two parts attached together very strongly and much quicker than when
lasted in the ordinary way, but by the edges a of the upper being visible and finished
with those of the soles the thickness of the soles at their edges may be increased
thereby giving to the boot, shoe, or slipper a strong and neat appearance.
Although I have shown the invention applied to a shoe, yet I would have it
understood that boots, and slippers may be manufactured in the same way.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
1st. The improvement in the manufacture of boots, and shoes, and slippers
substantially as herein described, which consists in turning the edges of the
uppers outwards and then sewing the turned edges down onto the sole as
setforth.
2nd. In the manufacture of boots, and shoes and slippers, the combination of a.
sole B with the upper A having its edge a turned outwards, and sewn all round its
forepart, waist, and heel portions to the upper surface of the said sole substantially
as herein setforth.
Dated this Wifth dose of Ontala1000
HENRY SEXTON.