Improvements in Apparatus for Pleating, Crimping, or Goffering Fabrics.
Year: 1897

page_text: Date of Application, 18th Nov., 1897
Complete Specification Left, 16th Aug., 1898--Accepted, 8th Oct., 1898
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Apparatus for Pleating, Crimping, or Goffering
Fabrics.
I, BENJAMIN JOSEPH BARNARD MILLS, of 23, Southampton Buildings, in the
County of London, Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature of this invention
(a communication to me from Claude Tachon, of Charlieu, Loire, and Henry
Pervilhac, of Villeurbanne, Rhone, both in the Republic of France, Dressers
and Finishers) to be as follows:-
The invention has for its object to obtain in a continuous manner fabrics
pleated, crimped or goffered and fixed in their form without the aid of auxiliary
threads.
The apparatus which I employ for this purpose is represented in the accom-
panying drawings, in which Fig. 1 is a transverse section and Fig. 2 a front
view thereof.
It consists 1st of a metal drum A, heated interiorly, 2nd of a drum B, of wood
or other adherent or frictional material, 3rd of two guide rollers C, D, formed
with a number of small equi-distant circumferential grooves, 4th of a series of
tension pulleys E, carried by counterbalanced levers F of number equal to that
of the grooves of the rollers C and D.
The endless cords G surrounding a large part of the circumference of the
two drums A, B, pass into the grooves of the rollers C, D, and over the pulleys E
which give them the required tension.
The drums A, B, turn in the direction of motion of the cords, indicated by
the arrows, but with different surface speeds, the heated drum A having a greater
speed than the drum B. The cords G which receive motion from the adherent
or frictional surface of the drum 13 consequently slip over the polished surface
of the drum A.
The differential speed of the drums may be obtained by any convenient
gearing, and specially by endless screws H and H¹ mounted on two parallel
shafts I, I connected together by interchangeable toothed gearing J, J which
enables the relative speeds to be varied at will.
The roller C is placed at a short distance from the drum A, and above at the
point where the cords leaving this roller come into contact with the drum, is
arranged a series of pulleys M, equal in number to that of the cords such pulleys
being carried by blocks N, oscillating separately on a fixed shaft K. Each of
these pulleys is strongly pressed against the drum A. by a spring L, and has at
its circumference a small groove which retains one of the cords G.
In working the machine some only of the cords G and pulleys M are in
operation; the others are removed or put out of action. The drawing shows
only the parts supposed to be in operation.
I will now describe the operation of the apparatus.

page_text: The fabric T, which has a convenient tension applied thereto by passing over
a set of bars O, is introduced between the drum A and the roller C, and passed
between this drum and the pulleys M, so as to be seized between the said drum
and the cords G held in the groove of each pulley M. From this moment the
fabric gripped between the pulleys M and the drum A, will be drawn forward
with a speed equal to that of the drum, but as it is at the same time retained
by the pressure of the cords G which have less speed it will be gathered or
puckered and will in this condition pass over all that part of the drum surrounded
by the cords.
In order to fix the pleating, crimping or goffering thus formed, there is
arranged above the pulleys M, a perforated steam pipe P' having very fine holes which
steam the fabric at the moment when the pleatings crimpings or gofferings
are just formed; it dries directly by its contact with the heated drum, and
leaves at R completely finished and fixed.
The mark of the cords continuing after the operation, divides the pleated,
crimped or goffered fabric into bands, the width of which may be varied to pro-
duce different effects. With this object, the grooves of the rollers C, D, are
sufficiently near each other to enable the cords to be placed at the desired points.
The effects can be further varied by replacing the endless cords by chains,
belts or other kind of band which would leave its impression on the pleated,
crimped or goffered fabric.
Some or all of these endless cords or bands might also be replaced by narrow
ribbons of velvet, chenille &c., unwinding in a continuous manner and having
been previously gummed or cemented to remain fixed on the pleated, crimped
or goffered fabric to which they serve as decoration.
.Dated November 18th 1897.
HARRIS & MILLS,
23, Southampton Buildings, London, W.C., Agents.
Improvements in Apparatus for Pleating, Crimping, or Goffering
Fabrics.
I, BENJAMIN JOSEPH BARNARD MILLS, of 23, Southampton Buildings, in the
County of London, Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature of this invention
(a communication to me from Claude Tachon, of Charlieu, Loire, and Henry
Pervilhac, of Villeurbanne, Rhone, both in the Republic of France, Dressers
and Finishers) and in what manner the same is to be performed to be particu-
larly described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
The invention has for its object to obtain in a continuous manner fabrics
pleated crimped or goffered and fixed in their form without the aid of auxiliary
threads.
The apparatus which is employed for this purpose is represented in the draw-
ings accompanying the Provisional Specification, in which Figure 1 is a trans-
verse section and Figure 2 a front view thereof.
It consists 1st of a metal drum A, heated interiorly, 2nd of a drum B, of wood
or other adherent or frictional material, 3rd of two guide rollers C, D, formed
with a number of small equidistant circumferential grooves, 4th of a series of
tension pulleys E, carried by counterbalanced levers F of number equal to that
of the grooves of the rollers C and D.

page_text: '
The endless cords G surrounding a large part of the circumference of the
two drums A, B, pass into the grooves of the rollers C, D, and over the pulleys E
which give them the required tension.
The drums A, B, turn in the direction of motion of the cords, indicated by
the arrows, but with different surface speeds, the heated drum A, having a greater
speed than the drum B. The cords G which receive motion from the adherent
or frictional surface of the drum B consequently slip over the polished surface
of the drum A.
The differential speed of the drums may be obtained by any convenient
gearing, and specially by endless screws Hand H³, mounted on two parallel
shafts I, I connected together by interchangeable toothed gearing J J which
enables the relative speeds to be varied at will.
The roller C is placed at a short distance from the drum A, and above, at the
point where the cords leaving this roller come into contact with the drum, is
arranged a series of pulleys M, equal in number to that of the cords such pulleys
being carried by blocks N, oscillating separately on a fixed shaft K. Each of
these pulleys is strongly pressed against the drum A by a spring L, and has at
its circumference a small groove which retains one of the cords G.
In working the machine some only of the cords G and pulleys M. are in
operation; the others are removed or put out of action. The drawing shows
only the parts supposed to be in operation.
I will now describe the operation of the apparatus.
The fabric T, which has a convenient tension applied thereto by passing over
a set of bars O, is introduced between the drum A and the roller C, and passed
between this drum and the pulleys M, so as to be seized between the said drum
and the cords & held in the groove of each pulley M. From this moment, the
fabric gripped between the pulleys M and the drum A, will be drawn forward
with a speed equal to that of the drum, but as it is at the same time retained
by the pressure of the cords G which have less speed, it will be gathered or
puckered and will in this condition pass over all that part of the drum surrounded
by the cords.
In order to fix the pleating, crimping or goffering thus formed, there is
arranged above the pulleys M, a perforated steam pipe P having very fine holes which
steam the fabric at the moment when the pleatings, crimpings, or gofferings
are just formed; it dries directly by its contact with the heated drum, and
leaves at R completely finished and fixed.
The mark of the cords continuing after the operation, divides the pleated,
crimped or goffered fabric into bands, the width of which may be varied to pro-
duce different effects. With this object, the grooves of the rollers C, D, are
sufficiently near each other to enable the cords to be placed at the desired points.
The effects can be further varied by replacing the endless cords by chains,
belts or other kind of band which would leave its impression on the pleated,
crimped or goffered fabric.
Some or all of these endless cords or bands might also be replaced by narrow
ribbons of velvet, chenille &c. unwinding in a continuous manner and having
been previously gummed or cemented to remain fixed on the pleated, crimped
or goffered fabric to which they serve as decoration.
Having now described and ascertained the nature of the said invention and in
what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I claim is :-
1) An apparatus to produce in a continuous manner the pleating crimping or
goffering of fabrics, in which a drum draws the fabric forward with a given
speed whilst the fabric passes between a drum and a series of cords, chains, bands
or ribbons surrounding the said drum and moving at less speed than the speed
at which the fabric is drawn forward: substantially as herein set forth.
2) In apparatus for pleating, crimping or goffering fabrics the combination
of a smooth internally heated metal drum, a frictional drum, a pair of rollers

page_text: having small equidistant circumferential grooves, a series of pulleys carried by
blocks mounted loosely on a shaft, springs acting to press such pulleys against
the internally heated drum a series of counterbalanced tension pulleys, cords,
chains, bands or ribbons passing around the drums, grooved rollers and tension
rollers, gearing arranged to give a differential speed to the two drums, a perforated
steam pipe placed near the spring pressed pulleys, and an arrangement of bars
for putting tension on the fabric, said fabric being conducted between the cords,
chains, bands or ribbons and the steam heated drum substantially as herein set
forth and for the purpose stated.
3) In apparatus for pleating, crimping or goffering fabrics the combination
of a drum rotated at a given speed to draw the fabric forward and a series of
cords, bands, chains or ribbons receiving motion at less speed than the drum and
between which and the drum the fabric is passed substantially as herein set forth.
and for the purpose stated.
בזי
1
1011
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1000
HARRIS & MILLS,
23, Southampton Buildings, London, W.C., Agents.
HARRIS & MILLS,
23, Southampton Buildings, London, W.C., Agents.