PROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES AND IN THE DEVICES USED TO IMPART MOTION TO THE SAME OR TO OTHER MACHINES
Year: 1866

page_text: PROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES AND IN THE DEVICES USED TO IMPART
MOTION TO THE SAME OR TO OTHER MACHINES." -A communication from
abroad by Albin Warth, of Stapleton, Richmond County, State of New
York, and Eberhard Faber, of New York City, both in the United
States of America.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Clarke at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 19th
July 1866.
I WILLIAM CLARK, of 53, Chancery Lane, in the County of Middlesex,
Engineer and Patent Agent. do hereby declare the nature of the said
Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES, AND IN THE DEVICES USED
TO IMPART MOTION TO THE SAME OR TO OTHER MACHINES," to be as follows:-
This invention may properly be classified under five different heads, the
first three of which comprise different modifications of the sewing mechanism,
and the two last certain improvements in the means for imparting motion to
said sewing mechanism or to other machines.
The improvements to be described under the first head relate to a sewing
machine of that class which by a simple change in the mechanism can be
Price 8d 1

page_text: adapted so as to produce the loop or the chain stitch. For the purpose of mak-
ing the loop stitch a wedge shaped shuttle is used, which is held in a suitable
shoe, and to which a reciprocating curvilinear or rectilinear motion is imparted
by suitable mechanism. The tension of the needle thread is partly regulated
by a spring bearing on the surface of the thread on the bobbin or spool, and
partly by the combination of a hinged and stationary rake and slip weight,
whereby the hinged rake can be made to bear on the thread with more or
less power. A peculiar mechanism serves to take up the slack of the needic
thread, and the tension of the shuttle thread is also regulated by a spring
bearing on the circumference of the thread on the bobbin. The feed motion
of the material to be sewed is produced by the action of the needle itself, to
which, after it has passed clear down through the material a lateral motion is
imparted, whereby the desired effect on the material is produced. An elastic
spring pad attached to the needle slide is used to assist the needle in pro-
ducing the feed motion. Both the motion of the needle and that of the shuttle
are produced by one and the same cam groove, and if the shuttle is
removed from its shoc and a suitable hook put in its place, the machine
produces the chain stitch. This machine is applicable for the purpose of
producing circles or other ornamental designs by combining with the
stitching mechanism an adjustable centre of any suitable construction, which
guides the material by pressing on the surface on which the circles or other
designs are to be produced; this centre may be inserted in an elastic arm,
so that the material can be readily removed from under it. For a certain
class of designs, such as undulating seams, a guage is used, to which a suit-
able slow reciprocating or oscillating motion is imparted by a design wheel
and spring slide, or other mechanical means which enable the operator to
produce the desired designs without paying any particular attention to the
serving mechanism. Another guage is also used which bears against the
edge of the material to be sewed, and which serves to sew a seam parallel
with a curved edge on leather or other thick -material. The material is guided
to the needle by a cloth guide with an inclined flange and adjustable shoulder,
and a braider is used which is provided with a number of slots of different
widths to receive braids of different size.
The improvements to be described under the second head relate par-
ticularly to that class of sewing machines known as the Wheeler and Wilson
machines.
The feed motion of the material to be sewed is produced by giving to the
oscillating needle arm an additional vibrating motion in a horizontal plane in
such a manner that the ordinary feed mechanism can be dispensed with, and

page_text: the feed motion of the material to be sewed effected by the action of the needle.
With the vibrating and oscillating needle arm is combined an adjustable
inclined plane, or combination of inclined planes, so that the amount of the
vibrating motion of the needle arm can be regulated, and the feed motion
produced by the needle can be accommodated to the length of the stitch
desired. A friction spring prevents the vibrating needle arm from changing
its position spontaneously during the time it is relieved from the action of the
inclined plane or planes, and a set screw or other suitable fastening serves to
arrest the needle árm, so that the machine can be used like an ordinary
Sewing machine of the same class. The needle is strengthened by a lip
extending close down on the back of the needle, so that the required feed
motion can be produced with a comparatively weak needle. The tension of
the needle thread is regulated by a simple roller of india-rubber or other
elastic material which is held between two plates or surfaces pressing against
its ends, and round which the thread is wound one or more times, the nature
of the rubber preventing the thread from gliding over the surface of the
roller, so that the tension depends entirely upon the pressure on the ends of
the roller, which can be regulated by the operator to suit his work. The
bobbin holder is provided with a guard on its top edge, whereby the loops
on dropping off from the revolving hook are prevented from jumping up
and being caught again by said hook which when not avoided is liable to
cause a serious interruption of the operation of sewing. With the bobbin
and bobbin holder is also combined a friction brush or other equivalent friction
device, which, when the motion of the rotating hook is suddenly stopped,
prevents the bobbin flying round by the reaction of the thread, thus avoiding
the disturbance otherwise created by this motion. If the machine is to be
used to produce the chain stitch the ordinary feed slide is removed and
replaced by a chain stitch mechanism which operates under the cloth plate,
and in combination with the self-feeding needle, and said chain stitch
mechanism is so constructed that it can be readily thrown in or out of gear,.
and the machine can be set to make the chain or the loop stitch at the
option of the operator. If the machine is used for making the chain stitch
the point of the revolving hook. is protected by an adjustable cap or pocket,
so that the same is prevented from catching in the loop of the needle thread.
The motion of the chain stitch mechanism is produced by a side surface cam,
against the working surface of which a roller stud on the end of the chain
stitch slide is pressed by the action of a spring combination with an adjust-
able latch in such a manner that by throwing the latch in the chain stitch
mechanism is thrown out of operation, and by throwing the latch out the

page_text: chain stitch mechanism is set in motion. The operation of sewing a series
of parallel seams, either rectilinear or curved, is facilitated by a stationary or
revolving seam guide which runs in the furrow produced by a previous
seam, and compels the material to move in a direction parallel to said
seam.
The improvements to be described under the third head refer to a sewing
machine in which the feed motion of the material to be sewed is produced by
the action of the needle. and which is provided with a shuttle which has a
revolving motion in a stationary shuttle race, and which is made either with
one point and a rounded stem or with two points, one at each end, and
which can be made to pass through the loop of the needle thread in either
direction. If a stitch of extraordinary firmness is required the motion of the
shuttle is accelerated so that the same passes twice through the loop of the
needle thread before the needle rises. In this case the arm which takes up
the slack of the needle thread is provided with an oblong slot, so that said
arm is allowed to rise a certain distance without pulling up the needle thread
and the loop is kept open sufficiently long to let the shuttle pass twice. The
needle is constructed with a flat shank, so that the same can be stamped out,
of sheet metal if desired, and said shank is provided with one or more holes,
whereby the thread is carried close down on the needle, and a lateral strain
on said needle is prevented. The spring which serves to hold the needle
thread to prevent the formation of a loop on the upper surface of the material
to be sewed is so arranged that it retains said thread for a short time only.
just long enough to give the needle time to descend, thereby avoiding all
undue strain on the needle thread. The cloth plate is provided with a braid
guide, so that the braid can be passed between the material to be sewed and
the cloth plate, and so that the chain stitch can be made to appear on the
surface of the braid. During the time the stitch is finished the material to
be sewed is firmly held between a rough surface clamp and the ordinary
pressure foot, and the operation of finishing each stitch is effected at the
moment that portion of the shuttle from which the shuttle thread emanates
passes opposite the needle. An elastic centre in the shuttle race or in the
shuttle driver, or in both, serves to keep the shuttle thread subject to a certain
tension, and prevents the shuttle from catching in the loop of its own thread.
The shuttle is enclosed in circular case or box which is provided with a
hook that assists in carrying the thread or threads over the back of the
shuttle. The shuttle race is provided with a central cavity which allows the
shutile to clear its own thread. and permits the loop of the needle thread to
pass freely over the shuttle. A ridge on the sole of the shuttle and near its

page_text: outer edge allows said shuttle to pass freely the loop of the needle
thread without causing said thread to twist. In case shuttles and thread
guides of different sizes or shapes are to be used in the same machine the
shuttle driver is mounted on a shaft which passes through the hollow driving
shaft, and which is provided with a notched button and spring stop in such
a manner that by turning the notched button the machine can be readily
adjusted for the thread guide and shuttle to be used. With the hollow
driving shaft and the spindle which carries the shuttle driver is combined a
back gear which when thrown in gear with the driving shaft causes the shuttle
to make two revolutions for each stroke of the needle, and consequently the
shuttle is made to pass twice through the loop of the needle thread, and a
stitch of peculiar firmness is produced. The thread guides used in producing
a double or triple lock stitch retain the shuttle thread or the needle thread,
and hold it in the proper position according to the stitch to be produced. and
hooks of peculiar construction are used in combination with the needle, one
to produce the ordinary chain stitch, and one to produce what is generally
known as the Grover and Baker stitch.
The improvement to be described under the fourth head relates to an
anti-reversing attachment to treadles of sewing machines, which, however, is
also applicable to treadles of other machines. This improvement consists in
the arrangement of a cam or double-armed lever on the crank shaft, and at
an angle of about 45 degrees (more or less) with the crank pin in com-
bination with one or more springs bearing on said cam lever, and with a
treadle which connects with the crank pin in combination with one or more
springs bearing on said cam lever and with a treadle which connects with the
crank pin in such manner that by the action of the spring or springs on the
cam lever the crank is always thrown in such position that the machine can
be started by the action of the foot on the treadle, and without the aid of the
hand, and, furthermore, the motion of the crank shaft in the wrong direction
is rendered difficult, and said crank shaft is compelled to revolve in the right
direction.
The improvement to be described under the fifth head relates to the
construction of pullies for sewing machines or for machines of any other
description, and it consists in constructing or forming the working face or
faces of a pulley of one or more layers of india-rubber or other elastic material
in combination with a protecting layer of leather, felt, or other flexible or
rigid material in such a manner that a friction surface is obtained, which
effectually prevents the belt from slipping. It consists further in the
construction of a grooved pulley, which is composed of three parts, viz., two

page_text: discs with suitable recesses to receive the india-rubber or other clastic
material, and united by a screw which serves to adjust the working faces of
the pulley in combination with an intervening plate of metal or other rigid
material in such a manner that by means of the regulating screw the pulley
can be adjusted for belts or bands of various diameters, and by the intervening
plate the leather faces of the pulley are kept in position, and the two discs
are prevented from being set too close.
The sewing machine to be described under the first head is constructed as
follows: The stand is made of metal or any other suitable material, the
upper surface of which stand forms the cloth plate serving to support the
material to be sewed. From the rear portion of the stand rises a standard,
the front end of which forms the guide for the needle slide, while its rear
end supports the driving shaft of the sewing mechanism. The needle slide is
composed of two parts, an upper and a lower part, the upper part of which
moves up and down between guides, motion being imparted to it by the
action of a cam and an elbow lever, which latter has its fulcrum on a stud
secured in the said standard. The lower part of the needle slide is connected
to the upper part, so that the same forms a kind of pendulum which swings
in a plane parallel to the direction in which the cloth or other material to be
sewed is fed on the cloth plate. In the lower end of this pendulum the
needle is secured, and the length of the vibrations of the pendulum is
determined by the action of a roller stud against the edge of a cam slot in the
front plate of the standard. The lower part of this cam slot forms an inclined
plane, and as the needle slide descends the roller stud comes in contact with
said inclined plane, and causes the pendulum to swing as desired, and by
these means the feed motion is produced. As the needle slide ascends the
roller stud strikes an inclined plane on the opposite edge of the cam slot,
causing the pendulum to reassume its perpendicular position. The inclined
plane is adjusted by a set screw, so that the feed motion can be increased or
decreased at pleasure. It will be noticed that the inclined plane is situated
near the bottom end of the cam slot, so that the feed motion does not take
place until the needle has reached its lowest position, and consequently the
strain on the needle is brought as close as possible to the point where the
needle is supported, and said needle is prevented from being bent. In order
to insure a correct feed motion, however, an elastic spring pad is applied to
the outside of the pendulum, and this pad when let down presses the cloth or
other material to be sewed up against the periphery of a smooth roller which
is mounted on a suitable arbor or stud below the cloth plate, and projects
somewhat above the surface of the same.. The pad is secured to the lower

page_text: end of a stem which slides up and down freely in a tubular socket secured to
the pendulum, and a suitable spring depresses said pad upon the material to
be sewed. On the upper end of the stem of the pad is a head, and by placing
between this head and the upper end of the tubular socket a semi-cylindrical
stop the pad can be held in an elevated position when it is not wanted. It
must be remarked that the pad, instead of being placed on the outside of the
pendulum, may be so arranged that it acts on the material to be sewed in
line with the needle. The needle thread is taken from a spool which is
enclosed in a hollow globe, and which rotates on a quill that rises from the
bottom of said globe. From the inside of the globe a spring projects, which
bears on the surface of the thread wound, on the spool, thus producing a
certain tension which is self-regulating, since the power of the spring decreases
with the diameter of the roll of thread on which it acts, and vice versa. The
globe is made in two halves, the lower half being supported by the standard or
by a statuette secured on said standard, and the upper half being arranged so
that it can be readily taken off and replaced. A small hole in the lower half of
the globe allows the thread to pass out to the tension regulator; this regulator
consists of two rakes, each of which is provided with a series of round teeth
or pins. The one or first rake is firmly secured to the side of the standard,
and the other or second rake is hinged to the first, so that when it is closed
down its pins pass in between the pins of the stationary or first rake. On the
head of the second rake slides a slip weight, and an adjustable dog secured
to the stationary rake serves to set the hinged rake higher or lower,
according to the tension required. If the hinged rake is lowered a
larger number of its pins bear on the thread, and the number of the
curves formed by the said thread is augmented, and consequently the tension
is increased; furthermore, if the weight is moved out the tension of the thread
is increased; and if said weight is moved in the tension is decreased. By
the combined action of the slip weight and dog therefore the tension of the
needle thread can be adjusted with the greatest nicety. From the tension
regulator the thread is carried down to the thread guide, which consists of a
simple wire secured in the front plate of the standard and provided with a
loop, through which the thread is passed. After having passed through this
loop the thread is carried over a smooth roller, which is mounted on an axle,
having its bearings in a drum or case, which is secured to the end of a sleeve
fastened by means of a set screw on the end of a pin which projects from the
needle slide. or the end of the elbow lever may be made to extend through
said needle slide so as to form a bearing for the sleeve. The smooth roller is
made to fit nicely into the case, but so that it revolves freely on its axis, and

page_text: it is provided with a circular groove that forms the guide for the thread. The
case is closed at top but it is provided with two slots in its sides through
which the thread passes.
From the smooth roller the thread passes down
through a guide, which is formed by a loop in the outer end of a wire pro-
jecting from the front plate of the standard. From the under side of this
guide projects a lip, and a weak spring presses the thread against this lip so
as to prevent the formation of loops on the top of the material to be sewed,
as will be presently explained. From the guide the thread passes down
through a second guide near the bottom end of the pendulum and thence to
the eye of the needle. The object of the smooth roller and slotted case is to
take up the slack of the needle thread, the roller does not strain the thread,
and the case prevents the same from jumping off the roller, which it is liable
to do, particularly if the machine is run at a high speed. The spring is
necessary to prevent the formation of loops on the upper surface of the
material to be sewed. If the needle occupies its highest position and begins
to go down, the friction of the thread in the eye causes the formation of a
loop on the upper surface of the material, and such loops interfere seriously
with the correct operation of the stitch forming mechanism. By means of the
spring before mentioned the thread is retained just hard enough to overcome
the friction of the thread in the eye of the needle, and as the needle moves
down the thread slides through its eye, and the formation of loops on the
surface of the material to be sewed is prevented. It will be noticed that
the spring exerts no strain on the thread, and it allows the same to pass down
freely as it is required by the stitch-forming mechanism. but it exerts sufficient
pressure on the thread to overcome its friction in the eye of the needle as
above explained. The stitch is locked either by a lower thread or the
formation of a chain on the under surface of the material to be sewed. In the
former case a shuttle is used; it is made wedge-shaped with a rounded stem
and pointed bow, and it carries a small bobbin on which the shuttle thread is
wound. A spring bearing on the surface of the thread wound on this bobbin
produces a self-adjusting friction which is uniform until all the thread is used
up, because the power of the spring decreases in the same proportion in which
the diameter of the roll of thread on which it acts decreases. From the
shuttle bobbin the shuttle thread is drawn under a pin in the narrow end of
the shuttle, and thence it is wound one or more times round a wire extending
from the solid bow of the shuttle, parallel to one of its sides, and this side is per-
forated with four (more or less) small holes, through one or more of which the
shuttle thread is passed so that the requisite tension of said thread is obtained.
The sole of the shuttle is perforated with a number of large holes so as to

page_text: reduce its weight, and said shuttle is carried by a shoe. This shoe is provided
with a spring catch which drops into a notch in the stem of the shuttle, and
a stem which projects from its back is fitted into a socket which is secured to
a reciprocating sleeve or carriage. This sleeve is fitted on a guide rod which
extends transversely through the machine stand, and it receives its motion by
the action of the same cam which also produces the motion of the needle
slide, said cam being made to act on a swivel arm which connects by a link
with a lever. This lever has its fulcrum on a point secured in the bottom of
the stand, and its front end connects by a short link with the shuttle sleeve.
The swivel arm is mounted on a vertical rock shaft, and it is armed with a
friction roller which is held in contact with the cam actuating the needle slide
by the action of a spring. In the same manner the elbow lever is also pro-
vided with a friction roller which is held in contact with the cam by the action
of a spring. These springs 'may, however, be dispensed with, if instead of the
cam a cam groove is used which straddles the friction rollers so that a positive
motion is imparted to the elbow lever and to the lever pivoted on the stand in
either direction. From the rear end of the shoe extends a curved rod through
a staple or eye; by the action of this rod an oscillating motion is imparted
to the shoe, and the point of the shuttle is thrown up when the shoe recedes,
and down as the shoe advances, and by this motion of the shuttle the point
thereof is enabled to enter the loop of the needle thread in a position com-
paratively close to the under surface of the cloth plate, and the length of the
needle can be reduced without disturbing the correct operation of the stitch
The sole of the shuttle bears
cloth plate, and the length of the mechanism.
against the vertical abutment or shuttle race which extends partially
across the stand, and in order to prevent the sole of the shuttle from rubbing
against or injuring that portion of the needle thread which passes through
between said sole and the shuttle race a cavity is made in said shuttle race.
In this cavity that portion of the needle thread which passes between
the shuttle race and the sole of the shuttle will lodge and the shuttle passes
through the loop of the needle thread without causing any injury to the same.
Another cavity in the shuttle race gives room for the needle to pass down the
shuttle, being pressed up closely against the shuttle race, and this cavity is made
wide enough to permit the feed motion of the needle. Instead of arranging
the shuttle so that its sole bears against the shuttle race the shoe might be
otherwise constructed and provided with a spring catch and stem, but with
the stem emanating from its side instead of from its bottom, and the shuttle is
placed in this shoe so that its side bears against the shuttle race. If a chain
stitch is to be produced instead of the loop stitch the shuttle is removed from

page_text: the shoe and a false shuttle put in its place; this false shuttle is provided
with a hook and tongue, which are formed of one solid piece of sheet steel or
other suitable material, being secured to the false shuttle by a pivot. The
edge of the tongue is pressed up against the shuttle race by means of a weak
spring, and a cavity in the shuttle race allows the tongue and hook to assume
such position that the hook catches into the loop of the needle thread
without fail at the proper time. It has been remarked that motion is imparted
to the needle slide and to the shuttle driver by one and the same cam. The
working surface of this cam is so shaped that by its action on the elbow lever
and shuttle driver the requisite motion of the needle slide and of the shuttle is
produced. By the use of one and the same cam for the purpose of imparting
motion to the needle slide and also to the shuttle driver the construction of
the machine is greatly simplified. When the machine is adjusted to make the
chain stitch the friction roller in the end of the swivel arm must be so adjusted
that it bears on the surface of another cam instead of the one above mentioned.
The second cam is however mounted on the same shaft, and the arm which
forms the bearing for the friction roller is adjustable, so that said roller can be
readily set to bear on the first cam or on the second one, as may be desirable.
After the needle has been threaded, as above described, and the shuttle
adjusted in the shoe the machine is ready for sewing. The tension of the
needle thread and of the shuttle thread must be regulated according to the
material to be sewed, and said material is placed on the cloth plate; the foot
is lowered by turning a handle, when the operation of sewing can commence.
As the needle descends it feeds the fabric, and after it has reached its lowest
position it recedes by the action of the first cam, thus forming a loop which
is caught by the point of the shuttle, and while the needle remains stationary
the shuttle is passed through said loop, which it opens by reason of its wedge-
shaped form; by this action the previous stitch is drawn tight, and as soon as
the shuttle has passed through the loop the needle ascends, and then the
shuttle recedes slightly and advances again, thereby allowing the needle thread
to drop freely, and finally the shuttle recedes and the stitch is finished.
During this operation both threads are relieved and stretched simultaneously,
and a light and clear stitch is produced. Provision is also made in this
machine to sew circles and other designs automatically, and without the
necessity of making them before the sewing commences, and of paying
particular attention to them while sewing. For the purpose of sewing circles
or designs composed of circles I use an adjustable centre, which is inserted
into a socket secured to the shank of the foot and provided with a set screw,
by means of which the centre can be held in the desired position; said

page_text: centre may be made in various forms, either with a point, with a revolving pad,
or with a spring. If desired, an extension attachment may be connected to the
arm of the centre, whereby the radius of the circles may be increased to any
desired extent. The distance of the centre from the needle determines the radius
of the circle to be sewed, and by the feed motion of the needle the material
to be sewed is caused to turn round the centre, and consequently a circular
seam is produced on the material. Any design composed of a combination
of circles or parts of circles can be produced by the aid of this adjustable centre.
In order to produce designs of any other desirable description such as undu-
lating or curved lines, a clothes guide is used which is composed of a head, from
which extend three prongs in an oblique direction, so that the fabric passing
through between them is carried up against the gauge. The gauge and
guide are mounted on an angular shank, which is secured in a socket, and
from said shank extends a tappet which is adjustable by a set screw; said
tappet extends down through a slot in the top plate of the stand, and it
catches into a slot in a lever; this lever is forced by means of a spring against
the back of a tracer, the point of which bears against the periphery of the
design wheel; this wheel is mounted on an arbor and an intermittent revolving
motion is imparted to it by a suitable mechanism from the swivel arm or
shuttle driver. A spring dog is used, the point of which bears on the circum-
ference of a circular disc that is connected to an arbor or to the design wheel,
and a vibrating motion is imparted to said spring dog by a rod which is
pivoted to the shuttle driver. I do not wish to confine myself however to
this particular mechanism to produce the motion of the design wheel, since
this motion can be produced in different ways, as above stated... The arbor of
the design wheel is adjustable in a slotted bracket, and thereby one and the
same design speed is enabled to produce a variety of designs. The form of
the design wheel is simply an eccentric disc, but it is obvious that this disc
may be replaced by a wheel of any other suitable or desirable shape or design.
With the cloth guide before described additional cloth guides may be com-
bined, whereby I am enabled to sew different thicknesses of cloth or other
material together, or to sew a braid to the surface of cloth, leather, or other
fabric, and to produce designs of any desired description. In this operation
the motion of the material to be sewed through between the foot and the
cloth plate is facilitated by interposing a spring.
The machine to be described under the second head is constructed as
follows: From the bed rise four standards two of which support the cloth
plate, whereas the other two form the bearings for the centre points of the rock
shaft which carries the needle arm, and one of these last-named standards

page_text: also supports the arm the front edge of which forms the socket for the stem
of the presser foot. An oscillating motion is imparted to the rock shaft by
the action of an eccentric on the driving shaft which connects with said rock
shaft by means of a rod and arm in the usual manner. From said rock shaft.
rises the arm to the end of which the needle is secured, but this arm instead
of being rigidly connected to the rock shaft is provided with a shank which
extends through a socket in said rock shaft thus allowing to the needle arm
an independent vibrating motion in a plane at right angles to that in which
the rock shaft oscillates. The shank extends clear through the socket of the
rock shaft and is bent at right angles so as to form a tappet which by
coming in contact with the inclined planes imparts to the needle arm the
desired vibrating. motion. The inclined planes are made of leather or other
suitable material and secured to a standard which rises from the bed of the
machine. The inclined plane is held in place by a set screw, and if the
same is made of leather or other flexible material it may be strengthened
or stiffened by securing to its back a thin plate of steel or other material.
The inclined plane is formed by the edge of a thick strip of leather or other
suitable material which is secured in a suitable socket in the standard.
When the needle arm rises a tappet strikes the inclined plane and turns said
needle arm in a certain direction, and if the needle arm descends the tappet
strikes a second inclined plane, and causes said arm to vibrate in the opposite
direction. By the vibrating motion this imparted to the needle arm and to
the needle the desired feed motion of the fabric to be sewed is produced, and
this motion is regulated by an adjustable pad which is secured in the standard
under the first inclined plane which is set in or out by set screws. Another pad
is secured to a lip rising in front of another inclined plane prevents the tappet
moving any further than desirable as the same strikes said inclined plane. The
two pads as well as the first and second inclined planes are made by preference
of leather to render them yielding and prevent unnecessary wear of the tappet.
A friction spring which is applied to the shank of the needle arm, and which
acts on the under side of the rock shaft, detains said needle arm in any position
in which it may be brought, and prevents it from moving spontaneously when
the tappet is not in contact with either of the inclined planes. A set screw allows
of regulating the tension of this friction spring, and by means of this set screw
the friction spring and also the needle arm can be made rigid with the rock
shaft when it is desired to use this machine with an ordinary feed motion.
The needle is secured to the needle arm of a clamping screw of the ordinary
construction, but from the head of said screw projects a lip close down on the
back of the needle, so as to strengthen the same and produce the desired feed

page_text: motion without being liable to bend. An adjustable spring pad which is
applied to the needle arm and subjected to the action of a spring may be used
to assist the needle in producing the requisite feed motion. When not in
action this spring pad is raised by a button, which when turned bears on the
under side of a spring. The stitch of the sewing machine is produced by the
combined action of the needle and a revolving hook. The needle thread is
taken from a spool and passed over the tension regulator, which is composed-
of a thread guide and an india-rubber roller, which is placed loosely on a pin
between two flanges, one of which is movable on the pin and subjected to
the action of a nut, whereby the roller can be compressed between the two-
flanges, and the power required to revolve it on its pin can be adjusted. The
thread guide is constructed of a piece of sheet metal with two flanges or lips,
which are situated on opposite sides of the roller, and which are provided
with slots through which the thread passes. In its course through the tension
regulator the thread is wound two or more times round the rubber roller, so
that by the action of the thread said roller is compelled to revolve, and at
the same time the thread is prevented from slipping or gliding over the roller."
By turning a nut the tension of the thread can be increased or decreased at.
pleasure. The lower thread is taken from a bobbin which is held in the
cavity of the revolving hook by the annular bobbin holder in the usual
imanner. In order to prevent the bobbin from being rotated in the wrong
direction if the machine is turned wrong, or from flying round by the
reaction of its thread if the machine is suddenly stopped, or if the belt slips,
I have applied a friction brush or other friction device, which is secured to
the bed of the machine by the same screw which also holds the bobbin holder
in its place. To the upper edge of the bobbin holder a guard is secured,
which projects up close under the cloth plate. The object of this guard is to
prevent such loops which drop prematurely from the revolving hook from
being caught by said hook. This guard is used in addition to the ordinary
friction pad or brush already applied to the Wheeler and Wilson machine,
and made to bear on the circumference of the hook for the purpose of
preventing the loops dropping off prematurely from said hook. The ordinary
feed mechanism which is not required in this machine is replaced by the
chain stitch mechanism. This mechanism consists of a slide to which a
friction roller is secured, a spring pressing this roller up against the face of a
cam. To the slide is secured a hook, which is intended to catch the loop of
the needle thread and to hold it open until the needle on its subsequent
descent passes again through the same. The shank of the hook is pivotted to.
the slide, and a spring which acts on said shank has a tendency to force the

page_text: hook back. As the slide is made to move in the one direction the hook
catches the loop of the needle thread, and as soon as the hook has passed the
needle a nose projecting from the shank of the hook by coming in contact
with the edge of the groove in which the slide moves causes said hook to
move against the action of the spring and to take up its position right behind
the needle, thus keeping the loop of the needle thread in the proper position
to make the needle pass through it on its subsequent descent. While the
chain stitch mechanism is being used the bobbin and bobbin holder are
removed from the revolving hook and the protector is attached; this
protector is provided with a cap to catch over the point of the revolving hook
and prevent the same from interfering with the loops of the needle thread.
Said protector is held in position by a set screw, which is tapped into the
end of the driving shaft. The cam which imparts the requisite motion to
the slide is mounted on the driving shaft, and its working face is on its
outside, so that said slide can be forced back against the action of the spring,
and if it is held in that position the chain stitch mechanism is thrown out of
gear. For the purpose of retaining the slide when the same is forced back
a stop lever is pivotted to the under surface of the cloth plate, and by
turning this lever so that it catches behind the shoulder of the slide said
slide is held back, and the chain stitch mechanism is thrown out of gear.
By using the needle feed I am enabled to apply the chain stitch mechanism
in a convenient position under the cloth plate, when it can be readily thrown
in or out of gear, and where it is not in the way of any other part of the
sewing mechanism. With the sewing mechanism as above described I have
combined two guides which are to be used particularly in quilting or in
making a series of parallel seams, either rectilinear or curved. For rectilinear
seams we use the one guide, and for curved seams I use the
guide for rectilinear seams consists of a flat piece of sheet
curved rounded edge secured to an L-shaped shank, which is
a set screw in a socket, which is secured to the presser foot.
curved seams consists of a wheel with a rounded edge, and
end of a V-shaped plank. In using either of these guides their edges are
made to travel in the seam already made, and by their action the material to-
be sewed is guided, so that each succeeding seam will be parallel to that first
made. These guides are particularly valuable for such work as securing the
lining of coats or for quilting in general, and they save much time and labor
generally required in marking ourt said seams. It must be remarked that these
guides are only applicable for machines with the needle feed, at least they do
not work accurately when used in combination with ordinary feed mechanism.
other. The
metal with a
fastened in by
The guide for
mounted on the

page_text: By the use of these guides I am enabled to produce a series of parallel scams
either curved or rectilinear, without previously marking off said seams, and
with little loss of time or attention.
The machine to be described under the third bead is constructed as
follows: The upper surface of the stand forms the cloth plate, which serves
to support the material to be sewed, and from the rear portion of said stand
rises a standard, the front end of which forms the guide for the needle stitch.
and its rear end supports the fulcrum pin of the arm or lever, which is
actuated by the cam on the driving shaft and which is connected by a rod
with one arm of the elbow lever, the other arm of which is connected by
another rod with the needle slide. This needle slide is constructed in two
parts like that described under head No. 1, and a vibrating motion is
imparted to the lower portion thereof by the action of an inclined plane,
which is adjustable by a set screw, and which is so situated that it acts on
the needle slide during the time the needle is in the material to be sewed, so
that the feed motion of said material is produced by the action of the needle.
As the needle rises, and after its point has cleared the material to be sewed
another inclined plane carries the needle slide back to its original position.
To the pendulum part of the needle slide is connected the elastic pad, which
assists the needle in producing the feed motion of the material to be sewed;
this pad is connected to a slide which moves up and down in a suitable case,
and a button or other suitable stop serves to retain it when it is raised, so
that it can be thrown out of action whenever it may be desirable. The needle
thread is taken from the spool, which is supported by the standard, and it
passes round an elastic roller, which is mounted on a suitable pin between two
discs of felt or other suitable material as described under head No. 2, and from
said roller it passes through an eye in the outer end of an arm which extends
from the front end of the standard and thence through an eye on the edge
of a yoke, which also projects from the end of the standard. From this cyc
the thread passes through the oscillating arm, which receives its motion from
the elbow lever. This arm is provided on its end. with an oblong slot, so that
it is free to move a certain distance before it takes up the slack of the thread,
thus giving the shuttle time to pass twice through the same loop of the needle
thread, as will be herein-after explained. The spring at the side of the yoke
which retains the needle thread and prevents the formation of a loop on the
upper surface of the cloth plate, or of the material to be sewed, is so con-
structed that it retains the thread only until the point of the needle touches
the material to be sewed, that is to say, until the danger of the needle catch-
ing in the loop of its own thread is avoided, and by these means all unnecessary

page_text: A
strain or friction on the needle thread is avoided. The needle is provided
with a broad, flat shank, the thickness of said shank being equal to the
thickness of the needle, so that the whole needle can be stamped out of sheet
steel, and the operation of making the needles is considerably simplified; said
shank is perforated with one or more holes, through which the thread passes,
and the thread in passing down from said hole or holes to the eye of the
needle lays close to the stem of the needle, so that in sewing all lateral strain
on the needle is avoided, and thereby an immense advantage is gained, par-
ticularly in sewing leather or other hard materials. In ordinary sewing
machines the lateral strain of the thread caused by its oblique position towards
the needle causes said needle to vibraté, and in sewing leather the needle is
liable to break, particularly if the machine is run at a high speed. By the
use of this flat shank needle this difficulty is avoided, and the machine can be
run às quick as may be desirable without danger of breaking the needle.
rough surface clamp, which is situated in an aperture in the cloth plate right.
under the presser foot, prevents the material under operation from changing
its position spontaneously; this clamp is secured to the end of an upright bar,
which is supported by a lever that is pivotted to a hanger suspended from the
under surface of the cloth plate. From the end of this lever projects an arm,
which bears against a cam on the driving shaft, so that by the action of said
cam a rising and falling motion is imparted to the clamp; this cam is tapering,
and the arm on the lever on which it bears is adjustable by a screw, so that the
rising and falling motion of the clamp can be increased or diminished at plea-
sure. The motion of the clamp is so timed that it descends below the surface
of the cloth plate as the needle begins to enter the material to be sewed, and
as the needle leaves the material the clamp is raised and the material held
tight between the same and the presser foot, thus preventing it from changing
its position spontaneously. The hole in the cloth plate through which the
needle descends is oblong, to allow the required feed motion of the needle
and close in front of said hole is another hole through which a narrow braid
can be introduced. If the end of this braid is brought up again through the
needle hole and the sewing machine is set in motion with the chain stitch
mechanism, the chain stitch will appear on the upper surface of the braid
when the sewing is finished. In producing the various stitches, with the
exception of the chain stitch and of the Grover and Baker stitch, a shuttle
pointed at one or both ends is used which travels in a circular orbit, and which
is propelled by a shuttle driven mounted on the driving shaft, or on a shaft
receiving its motion from said driving shaft. The shuttle is constructed
with one curved point and a rounded stern; its bottom is flat and the shuttle

page_text: driver is provided with a projection on one side to fit the concave side of said
shuttle. In the interior of said stern is situated a flat bobbin, which contains
the shuttle thread, and this bobbin is subjected to the action of a friction
spring which bears directly on the thread. The thread on being taken from
the bobbin is passed out through one of the holes in the sole of the shuttle,
The other shuttle is
bobbin is placed in the
which bears against the circular orbit or shuttle race.
constructed with two points, and in this case the
middle and the thread passes out either through a hole near the bobbin or
in either of the points, and the shuttle driver is so shaped that one
side thereof fits the concave side of the shuttle. The shuttles are or may
be provided on their soles with a projecting ridge near their outer edges
which is of such a width that the shuttle in passing through the loop of the
needle thread will not impart to the thread a twirling motion, and consequently
the thread is preserved from injury. The circular shuttle race is also provided
with a ridge near its outer edge, and it is provided with a movable centre
which is subjected to the action of a spring that has a tendency to force the
centre in towards the shuttle driver. If desired a similar centre may be
fitted into the shuttle driver. This centre serves to retain the shuttle thread,
subjecting it to a slight strain, and the stitch can thus be finished while the
shuttle or that part thereof from which the thread emanates passes opposite the
needle. The shuttle is retained in its orbit by a circular case which is pro-
vided with a hook to assist in carrying the thread or threads over the back of
the shuttle. If desired the shuttle race can be arranged in a horizontal plane,
and in this case the shuttle driver mounted on a vertical shaft, to which
motion is imparted from the driving shaft by a bevil gear or in any other
suitable manner. For the purpose of producing the simple lock stitch the
double or the single pointed shuttle may be used. The point of the shuttle
enters the loop of the needle thread, and as the motion of the shuttle proceeds
the loop of the needle thread is opened and the shuttle passes clear through
it, carrying with it the shuttle thread, which is retained in position by the
movable centre. As that portion of the shuttle from which the thread
emanates passes opposite the needle, the shuttle thread is stretched clear
across the shuttle race, while the needle rises to the highest point, and at that
moment the stitch is finished. During the whole time the stitch is being
finished the strain of the needle thread and also that of the shuttle thread is
in the direction of the needle, and consequently the needle is not subjected to
a lateral strain, and the stitches when finished pass up through the needle
hole without catching at the edge thereof, which is of particular importance
in making double or triple lock stitches where knots are formed by the

page_text: threads which are liable to catch at the under edge of the needle hole and
prevent the stitches being properly finished. The double lock stitch is made
in various ways. In either of these cases one of two additional thread guides
is used for the purpose of retaining the shuttle thread in the proper position
to produce the desired stitch. The one thread guide is provided with a round
shank which fits into a corresponding socket in the elbow lever, to which an
oscillating motion is imparted by the combined action of a cam and spring,
said cam being mounted on the driving shaft. From the shank extends a
supporting plate, which is held in contact with that portion of the frame in
which the shuttle race is formed by a spring which bears against a stud
projecting from the elbow lever. On the said supporting plate is mounted a
finger which is subjected to the action of a spring.
shuttle thread is caught and held until the point passes
By said finger the
through the loop of
the needle thread and in front of its own thread, and as the shuttle progresses
in its orbit the threads are interlaced and a stitch is formed. The other
thread guide is similar to the first guide, except, that instead of the finger it
is provided with a spring rod which catches the shuttle thread and retains it
in position. I would remark that in this case the shuttle thread passes from
the material to be sewed behind the needle and in front of the shuttle, whereas
in the stitch last above described it passes in front of the needle and
behind the shuttle. Otherwise the two stitches when finished are similar,
but the latter manipulations described produce a stitch having the
advantage of appearing on the surface of the material to be sewed in a
slightly oblique position, thus imitating the ordinary hand stitch on leather
or other similar material, In making the triple lock stitch a thread guide is
used, by which the loop of the needle thread is retained in the position to allow
the shuttle to pass first through the loop of the needle thread, then through
the loop of its own thread, and then again through the loop of the needle
thread. When this stitch is drawn up tight, it forms a knot which cannot
possibly be ripped, and which is of value for sewing heavy fabrics or materials
and which may also be used for button holes. In order to adjust the machine
for the various stitches the driving shaft is made hollow, and through it
extends a solid shaft, to one end of which is secured the shuttle driver, while
on its opposite end is mounted a button. This button is provided with three
notches. These notches are intended to receive a spring catch, which is
secured to the fly wheel and forms the coupling between the hollow and solid
shafts. If the button is turned so that said spring catch drops into the first
notch, the machine is set for the one kind of stitch. if the button is turned
so that the spring catch drops into the second notch the machine is adjusted

page_text: for another kind of stitch; and, finally, if the button is turned so as to allow the
spring catch to drop into the third notch, the machine is set for a third kind
of stitch, say, for the triple lock stitch. In this latter case however the spring
catch has to be raised, so that it releases the button after the back gear is
thrown in gear with cog wheels carried by the driving shafts.
Said back gear
is mounted on a shaft, to which a longitudinal sliding motion can be imparted
by a handle, and a wheel is mounted on the hollow driving shaft, while
another wheel is mounted on the solid shaft. The proportion between these
wheels and the back gear is such that by the action of said back gear the
speed of the solid shaft is doubled, and consequently the shuttle makes two
revolutions in its orbit for every stroke of the needle. The cogs of the wheels
of the back gear are rounded to facilitate the operation of throwing said wheels
in gear with the wheels on the shafts. For the purpose of making the Grover
and Baker stitch and the ordinary chain stitch the shuttle is removed, and in
the former case a thread guide is used. The spool of the lower thread is
attached to a pin which is secured to any appropriate spot in the 'stand, and
the thread guide carries the looper or lower needle, which is provided with an
eye to receive the lower thread, and which acts in conjunction with the upper
needle precisely like the looper or lower needle in the Grover and Baker
machine. The chain stitch is produced by another kind of thread guide.
This thread guide is provided with a hook, which catches in the loop of the
needle thread and retains the same in the proper position to allow the needle
to pass through the loop of its own thread. The operation of removing one
of the thread guides and substituting therefor another is very simple, and the
machine can be readily adjusted for either of the above-named stitches. If
neither of the thread guides is used a stop is inserted which throws the acting
lever out of gear with the cam.
It remains to describe the sewing guide and the braider. The sewing
guide is composed of a plate, which is secured by means of a stem in
the front end of the standard, and which is provided with an oblique lip
that bears on the surface of the material to be sewed, and causes it to work
up close to a guage. This guage is adjustable on a rod. which is secured
to the upper surface of the guide, and it is held in the desired position
by a set screw. By adjusting the guage the width of the seam is regulated.
The edge guide is composed of a rod, which is secured in the front end of the
standard and which is curved and bent. Its end is provided with a socket to
receive the stud. which is furnished with a round head, and which is subjected
to the action of a spring. This guide is to be used in sewing thick material

page_text: such as leather, and the head of the stud is made to bear against the edge of
said material, so as to produce a seam which is equidistant from the edge,
whether said edge be curved or straight. The braider is composed of a
U-shaped piece of sheet metal, which is secured to a curved rod, to be
secured in the front end of the standard. Said braider is provided with a
series of oblique slots of different widths through which the braid is passed.
The shank of the centre is also secured in the standard, and the curved arm
which supports the centre is elastic, so that the material can be readily
relieved by raising the centre.
I claim under the first head of this Invention,-
1st, the globe enclosing the spool of the needle thread in combination with
the said spool and with a tension spring bearing on the surface of the thread,
as and for the purpose described.
2ndly, the tension regulator of the thread.
3rdly, passing the needle thread through between a spring and lip or
their equivalents, as described, whereby the thread is caused to slip through
the eye of the needle, when the latter descends and the formation of loops on
the upper surface of the material to be sewn is prevented.
4thly, the elastic pad in combination with the jointed needle slide and with
the needle, constructed and operating as described.
5thly, the perforated flat sole shuttle, in combination with the shoe and
with the needle, arranged and operating as described.
6thly, imparting to the shuttle a tilting motion by means of a curved tail
piece or any other equivalent means.
7thly, the false shuttle with tongue and hook, in combination with
the shoe and needle, constructed and operating in the manner described.
8thly, the cavity made in the shuttle race in combination with the hook
above mentioned.
9thly, the cavity in combination with the sole of the shuttle and with
the shuttle race, constructed and operating in the manner before set forth.
10thly, the use of an adjustable centre with or without an elastic shank
in combination with the laterally moving, rising, and falling needle, constructed
and operating in the manner before described.
11thly, the extension attachment in combination with the centre above.
claimed, constructed and operating as and for the purpose set forth.
12thly, the arrangement of design wheel in combination with the sewing
mechanism, in the manner and for the purpose described.
13thly, the tracer and adjustable cloth guide in combination with the

page_text: design wheel, and with a sewing mechanism, constructed and operating in the
manner set forth.
14thly, the slotted bracket or any equivalent device in combination with
the design wheel, as and for the purpose described.
I claim under the second head of this Invention,―
15thly, combining with the vibrating and oscillating needle arm of a sewing
machine and adjustable inclined plane or combination of inclined planes and
pads in the manner herein-before described, for the purpose of regulating the
feed motion of the needle.
16thly, the arrangement of a friction spring in combination with a
vibrating and oscillating needle arm, constructed and operating for the
purpose set forth.
17thly, the arrangement of a set screw or other equivalent fastening in
combination with the vibrating and oscillating needle arm, constructed and
operating for the purpose described.
18thly, the elastic roller in combination with the clamping screw and
thread guide, as and for the purpose described.
19thly, the guard applied to the top edge of the bobbin holder, as and for
the purpose set forth. ¡
20thly, the friction brush or its equivalent, in combination with the
bobbin and bobbin holder, constructed and operating as and for the purpose
described.
21stly, replacing the ordinary feed motion of a "Wheeler and Wilson sewing
machine" by a chain stitch mechanism, such as herein specified, or by any
other equivalent mechanism, which in combination with the needle will pro-
duce the same effect.
22ndly, the protector, in combination with the revolving hook and with
a chain stitch mechanism, constructed and operating as and for the purpose
set forth.
23rdly, the guides used in making either curved or rectilinear seams, in
combination with a sewing mechanism, constructed and operating in the
manner set forth.
I claim under the third head of this Invention,
24thly, providing the oscillating arm, which takes up the shank of the
needle thread, with an oblong slot, so as to keep the loop of the needle thread
open to let the shuttle pass twice.
25thly, making the needle with a flat shank in the manner described.
26thly, the arrangement of a braid guide in the cloth plate, as and for the
purpose described.

page_text: 27thly, the rough surface clamp, in combination with the needle feed to
hold the material while the stitch is being finished.
28thly, the wedge-shaped shuttle with one curved point and a rounded
stem, as described.
29thly, the double-pointed shuttle, as described.
30thly, making a ridge on the sole of the shuttle, as and for the purpose
described.
31sily, the elastic centre pressing from either end or from both, in com-
bination with the revolving shuttle, constructed and operating as and for the
purpose set forth.
32ndly, the hook in the shuttle case, constructed and operating as and for
the purpose described.
33rdly, the circular ridge near the outer edge of the shuttle race applied in
the manner described to allow the shuttle to clear its own thread and to leave
the loop of the needle thread free to pass over the shuttle.
34thly, the application of a button provided with a series of notches,
in combination with a suitable stop or latch, and with the driving shafts
and shuttle driver, constructed and operating as and for the purpose set forth.
35thly, the arrangement of back gear in combination with the driving
shafts, shuttle driver, and needle, constructed and operating as and for the
purpose described.
36thly, the first method herein described of producing a double lock stitch
by the combined action of a thread guide, shuttle, and needle.
37thly, the second method herein described of producing a stitch by the
combined action of a thread guide, shuttle, and needle.
38thly, the method herein described of producing a triple lock stitch by the
combined action of a thread guide, shuttle, and needle, the shuttle being passed
twice through the same loop of the needle thread.
39thly, the method herein described of finishing the stitch by giving to the
shuttle thread a tension when that part of the shuttle from which the thread
emanates passes in its orbit opposite the needle, thus finishing the stitch at
once, and without waiting for the next loop, by means of the revolving shuttle
and elastic centre, all in the manner set forth.
40thly, the peculiar form of thread guide employed in making, the "Grover
and Baker" stitch, constructed as described in combination with the needle for
the purpose set forth.
41stly, the arrangement of thread guide used for making chain stitch,
constructed and operating in combination with the needle as and for the
purpose described.

page_text: 42ndly, the arrangement of sewing guide for bearing on the surface of the
material in the manner and for the purpose described.
43rdly, the arrangement of edge guide to be used when sewing thick
material, constructed and applied in the manner described.
44thly, the arrangement of braider, constructed and applied in the manner
before described.
I claim under the fourth head of this Invention,--
45thly, the arrangement of lever cam in combination with one or
springs, crank shaft, crank pin, and treadle, operating in the manner and for
the purpose set forth.
I claim under the fifth head of this Invention,
46thly, constructing the working face or faces of a pulley of one or
more layers of india-rubber or other soft and elastic material covered
with leather, metal, or other suitable material, as and for the purpose
described.
47thly, the combination and arrangement of the adjustable discs, india-
rubber plates, leather faces, and intervening metal plate, as and for the
purpose set forth.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said William Clark in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
19th January 1867.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, WILLIAM
CLARK, of 53, Chancery Lane, in the County of Middlesex, Engineer and
Patent Agent, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Nineteenth day of July, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-six, in the thirtieth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me,
the said William Clark, Her special licence that I, the said William Clark,
my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said
William Clark, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any
time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times there-
after during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might, make,
use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and
Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVE.
MENTS IN SEWING MACHINES AND IN THE DEVICES USES TO IMPART MOTION TO THE

page_text: SAME OR TO OTHER MACHINES," a communication to me from abroad by Albin
Warth, of Stapleton, Richmond County, State of New York, and Eber-
hard Faber, of New York City, both in the United States of America,
upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said William Clark,
my executors, or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my,
or their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and
ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same
was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent
Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the
said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that 1, the said William Clark, do hereby declare
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the follow-
ing statement, reference being had to the three Sheets of Drawings
hereunto annexed, and to the letters and figures marked thereon (that is to
say):-
•
This Invention may properly be classified under five different heads, the
first three of which comprise different modifications of the sewing mechanism,
and the two last certain improvements in the means for imparting motion to
said sewing mechanism or to other machines.
The improvements to be described under the first head relate to a sewing
machine of that class which by a simple change in the mechanism can be
adapted so as to produce the loop or the chain stitch. For the purpose of
making the loop stitch a wedged-shaped shuttle is used, which is held in a
suitable shoe, and to which a reciprocating curvilinear or rectilinear motion is
imparted by suitable mechanism. The tension of the needle thread is partly
regulated by a spring bearing on the surface of the thread on the bobbin or
spool, and partly by the combination of a hinged and stationary rake and slip
weight, whereby the hinged rake can be made to bear on the thread with
more or less power. A peculiar mechanism serves to take up the slack of
the needle thread, and the tension of the shuttle thread is also regulated by a
spring bearing on the circumference of the thread on the bobbin.. The feed
motion of the material to be sewed is produced by the action of the needle
itself, to which, after it has passed clear down through the material, a lateral
motion is imparted, whereby the desired effect on the material is produced.
An elastic spring pad attached to the needle slide is used to assist the needle
in producing the feed motion. Both the motion of the needle and that of the
shuttle are produced by one and the same cam or cam groove, and if the
shuttle is removed from its shoe and a suitable hook put in its place the

page_text: machine produces the chain stitch. This machine is applicable for the purpose
of producing circles or combinations of circles, or other ornamental designs,
by combining with the stitching mechanism an adjustable centre of any suit-
able construction, which guides the material by pressing on the surface on
which the circles or other designs are to be produced. This centre may be
inserted in an elastic arm, so that the material can be readily removed from
under it. For a certain class of designs, such as undulating seams, a guage
is used, to which a suitable slow reciprocating or oscillating motion is imparted
by a design wheel and spring slide, or other mechanical means which enable
the operator to produce the desired designs without paying any particular
attention to the sewing mechanism. Another gauge is also used which bears
against the edge of the material to be sewed, and which serves to sew a seani
parallel with a curved edge on leather or other thick material. The material
is guided to the needle by a cloth guide with an inclined flange and adjustable
shoulder, and a braider is used which is provided with a number of slots of
different widths to receive braids of different sizes.
37
The improvements to be described under the second head relate particularly
to that class of sewing machines known as the "Wheeler and Wilson
machines.
The feed motion of the material to be sewed is produced by giving to the
oscillating needle arm an additional vibrating motion in a horizontal plane in
such a manner that the ordinary feed mechanisin can be dispensed with, and
the feed motion of the material to be sewed is effected by the action of the
needle. With the vibrating and oscillating needle arm is combined an
adjustable inclined plane or combination of inclined planes, so that the amount
of the vibrating motion of the needle arm can be regulated, and the feed
motion produced by the needle can be accommodated to the length of the
stitch desired.
A friction spring prevents the vibrating needle-arm from
changing its position spontaneously during the time it is relieved from the
action of the inclined plane or planes, and a set screw or other suitable
fastening serves to arrest the needle arm. so that the machine can be used
like an ordinary sewing machine of the same class. The needle is strengthened
by a lip extending close down on the back of the needle so that the required
feed motion can be produced with a comparatively weak needle. The tension
of the needle thread is regulated by a simple roller of india-rubber or other
elastic material which is held between two plates or surfaces pressing against
its ends, and round which the thread is wound one or more times, the nature
of the rubber preventing the thread from gliding over the surface of the
roller, so that the tension depends entirely upon the pressure on the ends of

page_text: the roller, which can be regulated by the operator to suit his work. The
bobbin holder is provided with a guard on its top edge, whereby the loops on
dropping off from the revolving hook are prevented from jumping up and being
caught again by said hook, which when not avoided is liable to cause a serious
interruption of the operation of sewing. With the bobbin and bobbin holder
is also combined a friction brush or other equivalent friction device, which,
when the motion of the rotating hook is suddenly stopped, prevent the bobbin
from flying round by the reaction of the thread, thus avoiding the disturbance
otherwise created by this motion. If the machine is to be used to produce
the chain stitch the ordinary feed slide is removed and replaced by a chain
stitch mechanisin, which operates under the cloth plate and in combination
with the self-feeding needle, and said chain stitch mechanism is so constructed
that it can be readily thrown in or out of gear, and the machine can be set
to make the chain or the loop stitch at the option of the operator. If the
machine is used for making the chain stitch the point of the revolving hook
is protected by an adjustable cap or pocket, so that the same is prevented
from catching in the loop of the needle thread. The motion of the chain
stitch mechanism is produced by a side surface cam, against the working
surface of which a roller stud on the end of the chain stitch slide is pressed
by the action of a spring in combination with an adjustable latch in such a
manner that by throwing the latch in, the chain stitch mechanism is thrown
out of operation, and by throwing the latch out the chain stitch mechanism is
set in motion. The operation of sewing a series of parallel seams, either
rectilinear, curved, or under, is facilitated by a stationary or revolving seam
guide which runs in the furrow produced by a previous seam, and compels
the material to move in a direction parallel to said seam.
The improvements to be described under the third head refer to a sewing
machine in which the feed motion of the material to be sewed is produced
by the action of the needle, and which is provided with a shuttle which has a
revolving motion in a stationary shuttle race, and which is made either
with one point and a rounded stern or with two points one at each end and
which can be made to pass through the loop of the needle thread in either
direction. If a stitch of extraordinary firmness is required the motion of the
shuttle is accelerated so that the same passes twice through the loop of the
needle thread before the needle rises. In this case the arm which takes up
the slack of the needle thread is provided with an oblong slot so that said
arm is allowed to rise a certain distance without pulling up the needle thread,
and the loop is kept open sufficiently long to let the shuttle pass twice. The
needle is constructed with a flat shank so that the same can be stamped out

page_text: of sheet metal if desired; and said shank is provided with one or more holes
whereby the thread is carried close down on the needle and a lateral strain on
said needle is prevented. The spring which serves to hold the needle thread
to prevent the formation of a loop on the upper surface of the material to be
sewed is so arranged that it retains said thread for a short time only, just
long enough to give the needle time to descend, thereby avoiding all unduo
strain on the needle thread. The cloth plate is provided with a braid guide
so that the braid can be passed between the material to be sewed and
the cloth plate, and that lie chain stitch can be made to appear on the
surface of the braid. During the time the stitch is finished the material
to be sewed is firmly held between a rough surface clamp and the
ordinary pressure foot, and the operation of finishing each stitch is
effected at the moment that portion of the shuttle from which the shuttle
thread emanates, passes opposite the needle. An elastic centre in the shuttle
race or in the shuttle driver or in both serves to keep the shuttle thread
subject to a certain tension and prevents the shuttle from catching in the
loop of its own thread. The shuttle is enclosed in a circular case or box
which is provided with a hook that assists in carrying the thread or threads
over the back of the shuttle. The shuttle race is provided with a central
cavity which allows the shuttle to clear its own thread and permits the loop
of the needle thread to pass freely over the shuttle. A ridge on the sole of
the shuttle and near its outer edge allows said shuttle to pass freely through
the loop of the needle thread without causing said thread to twist. In case
shuttles and thread guides of different sizes or shapes are to be used in the
same machine, the shuttle driver is mounted on a shaft which passes through
the hollow driving shaft, and which is provided with a notched button and
spring stop in such a manner that by turning the notched button, the
machine can be readily adjusted for the thread guide and shuttle to be used.
With the hollow driving shaft and the spindle which carries the shuttle driver
is combined a back gear which when thrown in gear with the driving shaft,
causes the shuttle to make two revolutions for each stroke of the needle, and
consequently the shuttle is made to pass twice through the loop of the needle
thread and a stitch of peculiar firmness is produced. The thread guides
nsed in producing a double or triple lock stitch retain the shuttle thread or
the needle thread and hold it in the proper position according to the stitch
to be produced, and hooks of peculiar construction are used in combination
with the needle, one to produce the ordinary chain stitch and one to produce
what is generally known as the "Grover and Baker" stitch.
The improvement to be described under the fourth head relates to an

page_text: anti-reversing attachment to treadles of sewing machines, which, however, is
also applicable to treadles of other machines.
This improvement consists in the arrangement of a cam or double-armed
lever on the crank shaft, and at an angle of about 45 degrees (more or less)
with the crank pin, in combination with one or more springs bearing on said
cam lever, and with a treadle which connects with the crank pin in combina-
tion with one or more springs bearing on said cam lever, and with a treadle
which connects with the crank pin in such a manner that by the action of
the spring or springs on the cam lever the crank is always thrown in such
a position that the machine can be started by the action of the foot on the
treadle and without the aid of the hand, and, furthermore, the motion of the
crank shaft in the wrong direction is rendered difficult, and said crank shaft
is compelled to revolve in the right direction.
The improvement to be described under the fifth head relates to the con-
struction of pullies for sewing machines, or for machines of any other descrip-
tion, and it consists in constructing or forming the working face or faces of a
pulley of one or more layers of india-rubber or other elastic material in com-
bination with a protecting layer of leather, felt, or other flexible or rigid
material in such a manner that a friction surface is obtained which effectually
prevents the belt from slipping. It consists further in the construction of a
grooved pulley which is composed of three parts, viz., two discs with suitable
recesses to receive the india-rubber or other elastic material, and united by a
screw which serves to adjust the working faces of the pulley in combination with
an intervening plate of metal or other rigid material in such a manner that by
means of the regulating screw the pulley can be adjusted for belts of various
diameters and by the intervening plate, the leather faces of the pulley are
kept in position and the two discs are prevented from being set too close.
These improvements are illustrated in the accompanying Drawings, in which
Figure 1 represents a longitudinal vertical section of the sewing machine
described under the first head, the line x, 2, Figure 3, indicating the plane of
section; Figure 2 is an inverted plan of the same; Figure 3 is a horizontal
section of the same: Figure 4 is a transverse vertical section of the same
taken in the plane indicated by the line z. z. Figure 1, and looking in the
direction of the arrow opposite to that line; Figures 5 to 20 inclusive are
details which will be referred to as the description progresses.
Figure 21 is a plan or top view of the machine described under the second
head; Figure 22 is a side elevation of the same partly in section; Figure 23
is a sectional front elevation of the same; Figure 24 is a transverse section of
the same, the line x, 2, Figure 22, indicating the plane of section: Figure 25

page_text: is a detached plan or top view of the chain stitch attachment; Figures 26
to 32 are details, which will be referred to as the description progresses.
Figure 33 is a longitudinal vertical section of the machine described under
the third head; Figure 34 is an inverted plan of the same.
Figures 35 and 35* are diagrams illustrating the manner of producing the
single loop stitch.
Figure 36 is a plan or top view of the mechanism for producing the double
lock stitch by passing the shuttle once through the loop of the needle thread.
Figures 37, 38, and 39 are diagrams illustrating the manner in which the
stitch is formed.
Figure 40 is a plan or top view of another mechanism for the purpose of
forming a double lock stitch.
Figures 41, 42, and 43 are diagrams illustrating the manner in which this
stitch is formed.
+
Figure 44 is a plan or top view of the mechanism for producing the triple
lock stitch if the shuttle passes twice through the same loop of the needle
thread; Figures 45, 46, and 47 are diagrams illustrating the manner in
which the stitch is made.
Figure 48 is a plan or top view of the mechanism which is used to prodnce
what is known as the "Grover and Baker" stitch.
Figure 49 is a similar view of the mechanism used for producing the simple
chain stitch.
Figure 50 is a sectional end view of this Invention.
Figure 51 is a sectional plan of the needle bar and the devices for retaining
and pulling out the slack of the needle thread.
Figure 52 is a detached elevation of the flat shank needle; Figure 53 is
a horizontal section of the same on an enlarged scale; Figure 54 is an end
view of the driving shaft with its appendages.
Figure 55 is a plan of the single-pointed flat-bottomed shuttle which is used
in this sewing machine; Figure 56 is a side elevation of the same.
Figure 57 is a plan of the double-pointed shuttle; Figure 58 is a side
elevation of the same."
Figure 59 is a plan of the sewing guide: Figure 60 is a sectional side
elevation of the same.
Figure 61 is a side elevation of the edge guide: Figure 62 is a sectional
end view of the same.
Figure 63 is a plan of the braider; Figure 64 is an end view of the same.
Figure 65 is a plan of the horizontal shuttle race. which can be substituted

page_text: for the vertical shuttle race shown in the previous Figures; Figure 66 is a
sectional side clevation of the same.
Figure 67 represents a detached front elevation of the anti-reversing attach-
ment to treadles of sewing machines, which is also applicable to treadles of
other machines; Figure 68 is an end view of the same.
Figure 69 is a transverse section of an improvement in grooved pullies
intended to prevent the slipping of the belt in sewing machines, which im-
provement is also applicable to other machines; Figure 70 is a side elevation
of the same.
Figure 71 is a longitudinal central section of a flat pulley constructed
according to this Invention; Figure 72 is a side elevation of the same.
The sewing machine to be described under the first head is constructed as
follows:-
A represents the stand, which is made of metal or any other suitable
material. The upper surface of this stand forms the cloth plate which serves
to support the material to be sewed, and from the rear portion of the stand
rises the standard B, the front end of which forms the guide for the needle
slide C, whereas its rear end supports the driving shaft D of the sewing
mechanism. The needle slide is composed of two parts, a, b, the upper part
of which moves up and down between guides c, motion being imparted to it
by the action of a cam d and an elbow lever e, which latter has its fulcrum
on a stud secured in the standard B, as shown in Figure 1 of the Drawing.
The lower part b of the needle slide is connected to the upper part, so that
the same forms a kind of pendulum which swings in a plane parallel to the
direction in which the cloth or other material to be sewed is fed on the cloth
plate. In the lower end of this pendulum the needle n is secured, and the
length of the vibrations of the pendulum is determined by the action of a
roller stud g against the edge of a cam slot h in the front plate of the
standard B. The lower part of this cam slot forms an inclined plane i, and
as the needle slide descends the roller stud g comes in contact with said
inclined plane, and causes the pendulum to swing in the direction marked on
it in Figure 5, and by these means the feed motion is produced. As the
needle slide ascends the roller stud g strikes an inclined plane ; on the
opposite edge of the cam slot, causing the pendulum to reassume its per-
pendicular position. The inclined plane i is adjusted, by a set screw k, so
that the feed motion can be increased or decreased at pleasure. It will be
noticed that the inclined plane i is situated near the bottom end of the cam
slot h, so that the feed motion does not take place until the needle has

page_text: reached its lowest position, and consequently the strain on the needle is brought
as close as possible to the point where the needle is supported, and said
needle is prevented from being bent. In order to ensure a correct feed motion,
however, an elastic spring pad is applied to the outside of the pendulum b,
and this pad when let down presses the cloth or other material to be sewed
up against the periphery of a smooth roller m, which is mounted on a suitable
arbor or stud below the cloth plate, and projects somewhat above the surface
of the same, as shown in Figure 1. The pad is secured to the lower end of
a stem n, which slides up and down freely in a tubular socket o secured to
the pendulum b, and a suitable spring p depresses. said pad upon the material
to be sewed. On the upper end of the stem of the pad is a head q, and by
placing between this head and the upper end of the tubular socket o a semi-
cylindrical stop r the pad can be held in an elevated position when it is not
wanted. It must be remarked that the pad instead of being placed on the
outside of the pendulum may be so arranged that it acts on the material to
be sewed in line with the needle. The needle thread, which is shown in
red outlines in the various Figures, is taken from a spool 8, which is enclosed
in a hollow globe t, and which rotates on a quill that rises from the bottom of
said globe, as shown in Figures 6 and 7, where Figure 6 represents a vertical
central section of the globe, and Figure 7 a horizontal section of the same.
From the inside of the globe projects a spring u. which bears on the surface
of the thread wound on the spool, thus producing a certain tension which is
self-regulating, since the power of the spring decreases with the diameter of
the roll of thread on which it acts, and vice versa.. The globe is made in two
halves, the lower half being supported by the standard B or by a statuette
secured on said standard, and the upper half being arranged so that it can be
readily taken off and replaced. A small hole in the lower half of the globe
allows the thread to pass out to the tension regulator E, a detached front
elevation of which is shown in Figure 18; this regulator consists of two
rakes v, e, each of which is provided with a series of round teeth or pins.
The rake is firmly secured to the side of the standard B. and the rake is
hinged to the rake t, so that when it is closed down its pins pass in between
the pins of the stationary rake c. On the head of the rake slides a slip
weight a and an adjustable dog b' secured to the stationary rake & scives to
set the hinged rake higher or lower, according to the tension required.
the hinged rake is lowered a larger number of its pins bear on the thread.
and the number of the curves formed by said thread is augmented, and
consequently the tension is increased; furthermore, if the weight a' is moved
out the tension of the thread is increased, and if said weight is moved in the
:
If

page_text: ;
tension is decreased; by the combined action of the slip weight and dog.
therefore, the tension of the needle thread can be adjusted with the greatest
nicety. From the tension regulator the thread is carried down to the thread
guide c, which consists of a simple wire secured in the front plate of the
standard B, and provided with a loop through which the thread is passed.
After having passed through this loop the thread is carried over a smooth
roller d', which is mounted on an axle having its bearings in a drum or
case e', which is secured to the end of a sleeve fastened by means of a set
screw on the end of a pin g' which projects from the needle slide, or the end
of the elbow lever e may be made to extend through said needle slide so as to
form a bearing for the sleeve f. The roller d' is made to fit nicely into the
case e', but so that it revolves freely on its axis, and it is provided with a
circular groove that forms the guide for the thread. The case is closed on
top, but it is provided with two slots in its sides through which the 'thread
passes. From the roller d' the thread passes down through a guide g*, which
is formed by a loop in the outer end of a wire projecting from the front
plate of the standard B. From the under side of this guide projects a lip h¹,
and a weak spring presses the thread against this lip so as to prevent the
formation of loops on the top of the material to be sewed as will be presently
explained. From the guide gx the thread passes down through a suitable
guide near the bottom end of the pendulum b and thence to the eye of the
needle. The object of the roller d' and slotted case el is to take up the slack
of the needle thread; the roller does not strain the thread and the case
prevents the same from jumping off the roller which it is liable to do,
particularly if the machine is run at a high speed. The spring is necessary to
prevent the formation of loops 'on the upper surface of the material to be sewed.
If the needle occupies its highest position and begins to go down, the friction
of the thread in the eye causes the formation of a loop on the upper surface
of the material, and such loops interfere seriously with the correct operation
of the stitch-forming mechanism. By the spring the thread is retained
just, hard enough to overcome the friction of the thread in the eye of the
needle and as the needle moves down the thread slides through its eye and the
formation of loops in the surface of the material to be sewed is prevented. It
will be noticed that the spring i exerts no strain on the thread, and it allows
the same to pass down freely as it is required by the stitch-forming mechanism,
but it exerts sufficient pressure on the thread to overcome its friction in the
eye, of the needle, as above explained. The stitch is locked either by a lower
thread or by the formation of a chain on the under surface of the material to
be sewed. In the former case a shuttle S is used, the form of which can be

page_text: seen in Figures 2, 4, 5, and 19; it is made wedge shaped with a rounded
stem and pointed bow, and it carries a small bobbin k', on which the shuttle
thread is wound. A spring 1, bearing on the surface of the thread wound on
the bobbin produces a self-adjusting friction which is uniform until all the
thread is used up, because the power of the spring decreases in the same
proportion in which the diameter of the roll of thread on which it acts
decreases. From the bobbin the shuttle thread is drawn under a pin in
the narrow end of the shuttle, and thence it is wound one or more times round
a wire, extending from the solid bow of the shuttle parallel to one of its
sides, and this side is perforated with four (more or less) small holes through
one or more of which the shuttle thread is passed, so that the requisite tension
of said thread is obtained. The sole of the shuttle is perforated with a
number of large holes, so as to reduce its weight, and said shuttle is carried
by a shoe G. a detached view of which is shown in Figure 20; this shoe is
provided with a spring catch m', which drops into a notch in the stern of the
shuttle. and a stem n', which projects from its back is fitted into a socket o¹,
which is secured to a reciprocating sleeve or carriage H; this sleeve is fitted on
a guide rod p', which extends transversely through the stand A (see Figure 4).'
and it receives its motion by the action of the same cam d, which also
produces the motion of the needle slide C, said cam being made to act on a
swivel arm I, which connects by a link with a lever J, as seen in Figure. 2;
secured in the bottom of the stand
this lever has its fulcrum on a pivot s
A. and its front end connects by a short link (see Figure 4), with the
shuttle sleeve H. The swivel arm I is mounted on a vertical rock shaft J,
and it is armed with a friction roller u', which is held in contact with the
cam by the action of a spring c¹. In the same manner the elbow lever e
is also provided with a friction roller ', which is held in contact with the
cam by the action of a spring (see Figure 1). The springs and amay;
however, be dispensed with, if, instead of the cam da cam groove is used
which straddles the friction rollers u'. ', so that a positive motion is im-
parted to the elbow lever e and to the lever J in either direction. From the
rear end of the shoe G extends a curved rod
shown particularly in Figures 4 and 5 of the
this rod an oscillating motion is imparted to the shoe, and the point of the
shuttle is thrown up when the shoe recedes, and down as the shoe advances,
and by this motion of the shuttle the point thereof is enabled to enter the
loop of the needle thread at a point comparatively close to the under surface
of the cloth plate. and the length of the needle can be reduced without dis-
The sole of
turbing the correct operation of the stitch-making mechanism.
through a staple or eye c, as
Drawing. By the action of

page_text: the shuttle bears against the vertical abutment or shuttle race K, which ex-
tends partially across the stand A, as clearly shown in Figures 2 and 5 of the
Drawing, and in order to prevent the sole of the shuttle from rubbing against
and injuring that portion of the needle thread which passes through between
said sole and the shuttle race, a cavity cx is made in said shuttle race, as
shown in Figures 1 and 4. In this cavity that portion of the needle thread
which passes between the shuttle race and the sole of the shuttle will lodge,
and the shuttle passes through the loop of the needle thread without causing
any injury to the same. Another cavity in the shuttle race gives room for
the needle to pass down, the shuttle being pressed up closely against the
shuttle race, and this cavity is made wide enough to permit the feed motion
of the needle. Instead of arranging the shuttle so that its sole bears against
the shuttle race the shoe G* might be constructed, as shown in Figures 5, 11,
and 12 of the Drawing, where Figure 11 represents a plan or top view and
Figure 12 a side elevation. This shoe is provided with a spring catch m',
and stem n¹, the same as that shown in Figure 20, but the stem emanates
from its side instead of from its bottom, and the shuttle is placed into this
shoe so that its side bears against the shuttle race. If a chain stitch is to be
produced instead of the loop stitch, the shuttle S is removed from the shoe G
and a false shuttle S¹ put in its place; this false shuttle is shown in Figures 9
and 10 of the Drawing, where Figure 9 represents a plan, and Figure 10 a
side elevation. It is provided with a hook and tongue e, which are formed
of one solid piece of sheet steel or other suitable material, being secured to
the false shuttle by a pivot f. The edge of the tongue e is pressed up
against the shuttle race K by means of a weak spring (see Figure 10) and
a cavity in the shuttle race allows the tongue and hook to assume
such a position that the hook catches into the loop of the needle thread without
fail at proper time. It has been remarked that motion is imparted to the
needle slide C and to the shuttle driver J by one and the same cam d, a
detached front elevation of which is shown in Figure 8. The working surface
of this cam is so shaped that by its action on the elbow lever e and shuttle
driver J the requisite motion of the needle slide and of the shuttle is produced.
By the use of one and the same cam for the purpose of imparting motion
to the needle slide and also to the shuttle driver the construction of
the machine is greatly simplified, and if the cam is made in the proper
shape the machine will work correct for a long time, and its principal
working parts are not liable to wear out. It is obvious that all these
advantages are retained by a cam groove used in place of the surface
cam shown in the Drawing. When the machine is adjusted to make the chain

page_text: stitch the friction roller u¹ in the end of the swivel farm I must be so adjusted
that it bears on the surface of the cam d* instead of that on the cam d. The
cam dx is mounted on the same shaft on which the cam dis mounted, and the
arm which forms the bearing for the friction roller u' is adjustable so that said
roller can be readily set to bear on the cam d or on the cam dx as may be de-
sirable. After the needle has been threaded as above described, and the shuttle
S or S¹ adjusted in the shoe G the machine is ready for sewing. The tension of
the needle thread and of the shuttle thread must be regulated according to the
material to be sewed, and said material is placed on the cloth plate, the foot
F is let down by turning the handle H and the operation of sewing can
commence. As the needle descends it feeds the fabric, and after it has reached
its lowest position it recedes by the action of the cam d, thus forming a loop
which is caught by the point of the shuttle, and while the needle remains
stationary the shuttle is passed through said loop which it opens by reason of
its wedge-shaped form. By this action the previous stitch is drawn tight, and
as soon as the shuttle has passed through the loop the needle ascends and then
the shuttle recedes slightly, and advances again, thereby allowing the needle
thread to drop freely, and finally the shuttle recedes and the stitch is finished.
During this operation both threads are relieved and stretched simultaneously,
and a light and clear stitch is produced. Provision is also made in this
machine to sew circles and other designs automatically and without the
necessity of marking them before the sewing commences and of paying
particular attention to them while sewing. For the purpose of sewing circles,
or designs composed of circles I use an adjustable centre Cx which is
inserted into a socket secured to the shank of the foot FX and provided
with a set screw 2, by means of which the centre can be held in the desired
position. Said centre may be made in various forms either with a point k
as shown in Figure 15 or with a revolving pad 12 as shown in Figures 13 and
14, or with a spring as shown in Figure 51, and the pad may be connected to
the arm in many different ways, two of which are shown in the Figures before
mentioned. If desired an extension attachment may be connected to the
arm of the centre, such as shown in Figure 16, and whereby the radius of the
circles may be increased to any desired extent. The distance of the centre
from the needle determines the radius of the circle to be sewed, and by the
feed motion of the needle the material to be sewed is caused to turn round the
centre and consequently a circular seam is produced on the material. Any
design composed of a combination of circles or parts of circles can be pro-
duced by the aid of this adjustable centre. In order to produce designs of
any other desirable description, such as undulating or curved lines, a clothes

page_text: guide M is used which is composed of a head m2 from, which extend three
prongs n in an oblique direction so that the fabric passing through between
them is carried up against the guage o². The guage and guide are mounted on an
angular shank p* which is secured in a socket s², and from said shank extends
a tappet which is adjustable by a set screw u; said tappet extends down
through a slot in the top plate of the stand A and it catches into a slot in
a lever ². This lever is forced by means of a spring against the back of
a tracer, the point of which bears against the periphery of the design
wheel. This wheel is mounted on an arbor a³ (see Figure 3) and an
intermittent revolving motion is imparted to it by a suitable mechanism from
the swivel arm I or shuttle driver J. In the Drawing a spring dog b³ is used
the point of which bears on the circumference of a circular disc ca that is
connected to the arbor or to the design wheel 2, and a vibrating motion
is imparted to said spring dog by a rod which is pivoted to the shuttle
driver J, as shown in Figure 2.
I do not wish to confine myself however to this particular mechanism to
produce the motion of the design wheel since the motion can be produced in
different ways as above stated. The arbor a³ of the design wheel is adjustable
in a slotted bracket and thereby one and the same design speed is enabled
to produce a variety of designs. The form of the design wheel shown in
the Drawing is simply an eccentric disc, but it is obvious that this disc may
be replaced by a wheel of any other suitable or desirable shape or design.
With the cloth guide M additional cloth guides M and Mx may be com-
bined, such as shown in Figures 17 and 17*, and thereby I am enabled to sew
different thicknesses of cloth or other material together or to sew a braid to
the surface of cloth, leather, or other fabric, and to produce designs of any
desired description. In this operation the motion of the material to be sewed
through between the foot, FX and the cloth plate is facilitated by interposing
a spring e, as shown in Figure 3.
The machine to be described under the second head is constructed as
follows: A represents the bed from which rise four standards a, a, b, c, two
of which support the cloth plate B, whereas the other two form the bearings
for the centre points of the rock shaft C which carries the needle arm D,
and one of these last-named standards also supports the arm E, the front end
of which forms the socket for the stem of the presser foot F. An oscillating
motion is imparted to the rock shaft by the action of an eccentric d on the
driving shaft e which connects with said rock shaft by means of a rod fand arm g
in the usual manner. From said rock shaft rises the arm D, to the end of
which the needle n is secured, but this arm instead of being rigidly connected to

page_text: the rock shaft is provided with a shank (see Figure 22), which extends
through a socket. in said rock shaft, thus allowing to the needle arm an
independent vibrating motion in a plane at right angles to that in which the
rock shaft oscillates. The shank h extends clear through the socket of the
rock shaft, and is bent at right angles so as to form a tappet i, which by
coming in contact with the inclined planes j. k. imparts to the needle arm the
desired vibrating motion. The inclined planes j, k, are best-seen in Figure.24
of the Drawing. They are made of leather or other suitable material and
secured to a standard H. which rises from the bed. of the machine. The
inclined plane i is held in place by a set screw 1, and if the same is made
of leather or other flexible material it may be strengthened or stiffened by
securing to its back a thin plate of steel or other suitable material. The
inclined plane is formed by the edge of a thick. strip of. leather or
other suitable material, which is secured in a suitable socket, in the
standard H. When the needle arm rises the tappet i strikes the inclined
plane and turns said needle arm in the direction of the arrow marked
near it in Figure 24 and if the needle arın descends the tappet strikes
the inclined plane k, and causes said arm to vibrate in the direction
opposite to the arrow marked near it in said Figure. By the vibrating motion
thus imparted to the needle arm to the needle the desired feed motion of
the fabric to be sewed is produced, and this feed motion is regulated by an
adjustable pad m, which is secured in the standard H under the inclined
plane j, and which is set in or out by set screws 0. Another pad p. which is
secured to a lip rising in front of the inclined plane r, prevents the tappet i
moving any further than desirable as the same strikes said inclined plane.
The pads m and p, as well as the inclined planes j, k, are made by preference
of leather to render them yielding, and prevent unnecessary wear of the
tappet i. A friction spring q, which is applied to the shank of the needle
arm, and which acts on the under side of the rock shaft, detains said needle
arm in any position in which it may be brought, and prevents it from moving
spontaneously when the tappet is not in contact with either of the inclined
planes. A set screw r. allows of regulating the tension of this friction spring.
and by means of this set screw the friction spring and also the needle arm can
be made rigid with the rock shaft when it is desired to use this machine
with an ordinary feed motion. The needle n is secured to the needle arm by
a clamping screw of the ordinary construction, but from the head of said screw
projects a lip 8, close down on the back of the needle, so as to strengthen the
same and produce the desired feed motion without being liable to bend. An
adjustable spring pad t, which is applied to the needle arm and subjected to

page_text: the action of a spring u, may be used to assist the needle in producing the
requisite feed motion. When not in action this spring pad is raised by a
button, which when turned bears on the under side of the spring #.
The stitch of this sewing machine is produced by the combined action of
the needle and the revolving hook I. The needle thread is taken from the
spool J and passed over the tension regulator, which is composed of a thread
guide a and an india-rubber roller b¹ which is placed loosely on a pin c¹
between two flanges, one of which is movable on the pin and subjected to
the action of a nut d', whereby the roller can be compressed between the two
flanges, and the power required to revolve it on its pin can be adjusted. The
thread guide a is constructed of a piece of sheet metal with two flanges
or lips which are situated on opposite sides of the roller b', and which are
provided with slots through which the thread passes. In its course through
the tension regulator the thread is wound two or more times round the
roller b', so that by the action of the thread said roller is compelled to revolve,
and at the same time the thread is prevented from slipping or gliding over
the roller. By turning the nut d' the tension of the thread can be increased
or decreased at pleasure. The lower thread is taken from the bobbin K, which
is held in the cavity of the revolving hook I, by the annular bobbin holder M,
in the usual manner. In order to prevent the bobbin from being rotated in
the wrong direction if the machine is turned wrong, or from flying round by
the reaction of its thread if the machine is suddenly stopped, so if the belt
slips, I have applied a friction brush or other friction device e', which is
secured to the bed of the machine by the same screw f', which also holds the
bobbin holder in its place. To the upper edge of the bobbin holder a guard g¹
is secured which projects up close under the cloth plate B.. The object of this
guard is to prevent such loops which drop prematurely from the revolving
hook from being caught by said hook; this guard is used in addition to the
ordinary friction pad or brush already applied to the "Wheeler and Wilson "
machine, and made to bear on the circumference of the hook for the purpose
of preventing the loops dropping off prematurely from said book. The guard
and friction brush are shown particularly in Figures 28 and 29.
The ordinary feed mechanism which is not required in this machine is
replaced by the chain stitch mechanism, a detached view of which is shown
in Figure 25. This mechanism consists of a slide ¹ to which a friction
roller is secured, and a spring j' presses this roller up against the face of a
cam N¹ (see Figure 23). To the slide ¹ is secured the hook which is
intended to catch the loop of the needle thread, and to hold it open until the
needle on its subsequent descent passes again through the same. The shank

page_text: of the hook is pivoted to the slide h', and a spring which acts on said shank
has a tendency to force the hook back in the direction of the arrow marked
near it in Figure 25. As the slide is made to move in the direction of the
arrow marked near it in said Figure the hook catches the loop of the
needle thread, and as soon as the hook has passed the needle a nose m' pro-
jecting from the shank of the hook by coming in contact with the edge of
the groove in which the slide moves causes said hook to move against the
action of the spring and to take up its position right behind the needle,
thus keeping the loop of the needle thread in the proper position to make
the needle pass through it on its subsequent descent. While the chain stitch
mechanism is being used the bobbin and bobbin holder are removed from the
revolving hook, and the protector # is attached, which is shown in Figures
26 and 27. This protector is provided with a cap o¹ to catch over the point
of the revolving hook and prevent the same from interfering with, the loops of
the needle thread. Said protector is held in position by a set screw p¹ which
is tapped into the end of the driving shaft, and which is shown in position in
Figure 23 of the Drawing. The cam N' which imparts the requisite motion
to the slide is mounted on the driving shaft, and its working face is on its
outside, so that said slide can be forced back against the action of the
spring, and if it is held in that position the chain stitch mechanism. is
thrown out of gear. For the purpose of retaining the slide when the same
is forced back a stop lever q' is pivoted to the under surface of the cloth
plate B, and by turning this lever so that it catches behind the shoulder n'
of the slide h, said slide is held back and the chain stitch mechanism is
thrown out of gear. By using the needle feed am enabled to apply the
chain stitch mechanism in convenient position under the cloth plate, when
it can be readily thrown in or out of gear and when it is not in the way of
any other part of the sewing mechanism. With the sewing mechanism as
above described I have combined a guide N or N* which is to be used par-
ticularly in quilting or in making a series of parallel seams, either rectilinear
or curved. For rectilinear seams I use the guide N (seen Figures 30 and 30).
and for curved seams the guide N* (see Figures 31 and 32). The guide N
consists of a flat piece of sheet metal with a curved rounded edge, and
secured to an L-shaped shank r', which is fastened in by a set screw & in the
socket ', which is secured to the presser foot F, as seen in Figures and 3.
The guide NX consists of a wheel with a rounded edge, and mounted on the
end of a V-shaped shank rx. In using either of these guides their edges are
made to travel in the seam already made, and by their action the material
to be sewed is guided in the direction indicated by the seam, so that each

page_text: succeeding seam will be parallel to that first made. These guides are
particularly valuable for such work as securing the lining of coats or for
quilting in general, and they save much time and labor generally required
in marking out said seams. For curved seams the guide N cannot be used,
and in this case the revolving guide N must be substituted. It must be
remarked that the guides are only applicable for machines with the needle
feed, at least they do not work accurately when used in combination with
ordinary feed mechanisms. By the use of these guides I am enabled to
produce a series of parallel seams, either curved or rectilinear, without
previously marking off said seams, and with little loss of time or attention.
The machine to be described under the third head is constructed as follows:-
A, represents the stand which is made of metal or any other suitable material.
The upper surface of this stand forms the cloth plate, which serves to support
the material to be sewed and from the rear portion of said stand rises
the standard B, the front end of which forms the guide for the needle
stitch C, whereas its rear end supports the fulcrum pin «, of the arm or
lever D which is actuated by the cam E on the driving shaft F and which
connects by a rod b with one arm of the elbow lever d the other arm of
which connects by a rod e with the needle slide C. This needle slide is
constructed in two parts like that described under head No. 1 and a vibrating
motion is imparted to the lower portion thereof by the action of an inclined
plane which is adjustable by a set screw and which is so situated that it acts on
the needle slide during the time the needle is in the material to be sewed, so
that the feed motion of said material is produced by the action of the needle n.
As the needle rises and after its point has cleared the material to be sewed,
another inclined plane carries the needle slide back to its original position.
To the pendulum part of the needle slide is connected the elastic pad which
assists the needle in producing the feed motion of the material to be sewed;
this pad is connected to the slide which moves up and down in a suitable case,
and a button or other suitable stop serves to retain it when it is raised so that
it can be thrown out of action whenever it may be desirable. The needle
thread is taken from the spool S* which is supported by the standard, B
and it passes round an elastic roller which is mounted on a suitable pin
between two discs of felt or other suitable material, as fully described under
the head No. 2, and from said roller it passes through an eye in the outer
end of an arm which extends from the front end of the standard B, and thence
through an eye on the edge of a yoke which also projects from the
end of the standard B; from this eye the thread passes through the
oscillating arm which receives its motion from the elbow lever d; this

page_text: arm is provided in its end with an oblong sloth so that it is free to. move
a certain distance, before it takes up the slack of the thread, thus giving the
shuttle time to. pass.. twice. through the same loop of the needle thread; as will
be herein-after explained. The spring at the side of the yoke which
retains the needle thread and prevents the formation of a loop on the upper
surface of the cloth plate, or of the material to be sewed, is so constructed that
it retains the thread only, until the point of the needle touches the material
to be sewed, that is to say, until the danger of the needle catching in the loop
of its own thread is avoided, and by these means all unnecessary strain or friction
on the needle. thread is avoided. The needle n is provided with a broad flat
shank n', as shown particularly in Figure 52, the thickness of said shank being
equal to the thickness of the needle, so that the whole needle can be stamped
out of sheet steel, and the operation of making the needles is considerably
simplified; said shank is perforated with one or more holes n* through which
the thread passes, and the thread in passing down from said hole or holes to
the eye of the needle lays close to the stem of the needle, so that in sewing
all lateral strain on the needle is avoided and thereby, an immense advantage
is gained particularly in sewing leather or other hard materials. In ordinary
sewing machines the lateral strain of the thread, caused by its oblique, portion,
towards the needle causes said needle to vibrate, and in sewing leather the
needle is liable to break, particularly if the machine is run at a high speed.
By the use of a flat shank needle this difficulty is avoided, and the machine can
be run as quick as may be desirable without danger of breaking the needle.
A rough surface clamp i, which is situated in an aperture in the cloth plate
right under the presser foot, prevents the material to be sewed from changing
its position spontaneously. This clamp is secured to the end of an upright
bark which is supported by a lever I that is pivoted to a hanger m suspended
from the under surface of the cloth plate. From the end of this lever
projects an arm o which bears against a camp on the driving shaft, so that
by the action of said cam a rising and falling motion is imparted to the
clamp j. The camp is tapering, and the arm o on the lever is adjustable
by a screw q so that the rising and falling motion of the clamp can be
increased or diminished at pleasure. The motion of the clamp j is so timed
that it descends below the surface of the cloth plate as the needle begins to
enter the material to be sewed, and as the needle leaves the material the
clamp is raised and the material is held tight between the same and the
pressure foot, thus preventing it from changing its position spontaneously.
The hole s in the cloth plate (see Figures 33 and 34) through which the
needle descends is oblong to allow the required feed motion of the needle, and

page_text: close in front of said hole is another hole r though which a narrow braid can
be introduced. If the end of this braid is brought up again through the
holes and the sewing machine 'is set in motion with the chain stitch mechanism
the chain stitch will appear on the upper surface of the braid when the sewing
is finished. In producing the various stitches, with the exception of the chain
stitch and of the Grover and Baker" stitch a shuttle S or S' is used, which
travels in a circular orbit O, and which is propelled by a shuttle driver H
mounted on the driving shaft F or on a shaft receiving its motion from said
driving shaft. The shuttle S is constructed with one curved point and a
rounded stern, as shown in Figure 55; its bottom is flat, and the shuttle
driver is provided with a projection on one side to fit the concave side of said
shuttle. In the interior of said stern is situated the flat bobbin # which
contains the shuttle thread, and this bobbin is subjected to the action of a
friction spring which bears directly on the thread, as indicated in Figure 55.
The thread on being taken from the bobbin u is passed out through one of
the holes in the sole of the shuttle which bears against the circular orbit or
shuttle race O. The shuttle S' is constructed with two points, as shown in
Figure 57, and in this case the bobbin is placed in the middle, and the
thread passes out either through a hole near the bobbin or through a hole in
either of the points, and the shuttle driver is so shaped that one. side thereof
fits the concave side of the shuttle S'. The shuttles S and S' are or may be
provided on their soles with a projecting ridge a near their outer edges, which.
is of such a width that the shuttle in passing through the loop of the needle
thread will not impart to the thread a twirling motion, and consequently the
thread is preserved from injury. The circular shuttle race is also provided
with a ridge b³ near its outer edge, and it is provided with a movable centre c¹
which is subjected to the action of a spring d¹ that has a tendency to force
the centre in towards the shuttle driver. If desired a similar centre may be
fitted into the shuttle driver; this centre serves to retain the shuttle thread,
subjecting it to a slight strain, and the stitch can thus be finished while the
shuttle or that part thereof from which the thread emanates passes opposite
the needle. The shuttle is retained in its orbit by a circular case V, which is
provided with a hook to assist in carrying the thread or threads over the
back of the shuttle. If desired the shuttle race can be arranged in a horizontal
plane, as shown in Figures 65 and 66, and in this case the shuttle driver is
mounted on a vertical shaft to which motion is imparted from the driving
shaft by a bevil gear, or in any other suitable manner.
The method in which the various stitches are produced is represented in
Figures 35 to 49 inclusive.

page_text: For the purpose of producing the simple lock stitch the double or the
single pointed shuttle may be used. The point of the shuttle enters
the loop of the needle thread, as shown in Figure 35, and as the motion
of the shuttle proceeds the loop of the needle thread is opened and the
shuttle passes clear through it, carrying with it the shuttle thread, which is
retained in the position shown in Figures 35 and 35* respectively by the
movable centre c'. As that portion of the shuttle from which the thread
emanates passes opposite the needle the shuttle thread is stretched clear
across the shuttle race while the needle rises to its highest point, and at that
moment the stitch is finished. During the whole time the stitch is being
finished the strain of the needle thread and also that of the shuttle thread is
in the direction of the needle, and consequently the needle is not subjected
to a lateral strain, and the stitches when finished pass up through the
holes without catching at the edge thereof, which is of a particular importance
in making double or triple lock stitches where knots are formed by the threads
which are liable to catch at the under edge of the needle hole and prevent
the stitches being properly finished. The double lock stitch is made either
In either
as shown in Figures 36 to 39, or as shown in Figures 40 to 43.
of these cases an additional thread guide I, l', and so on is used for the
purpose of retaining the shuttle thread in the proper position to produce the
desired stitch. The thread guide I is shown in Figure 36. It is provided
with a round shank d', which fits into a corresponding socket in the elbow
lover e', to which an oscillating motion is imparted by the combined action
of the cam and spring g', said cam being mounted on the driving shaft F
as shown in Figure 34. From the shank d' extends a supporting plate '
which is held in contact with that portion of the frame A in which the shuttle
race is formed by a spring which bears against a stud projecting from the
lever e. On the plate is mounted the finger which is subjected to the
action of a spring . By said finger the shuttle thread is caught and held in
the position shown in Figure 37 until the point passes through the loop of the
needle thread and in front of its own thread, and as the shuttle progresses in
its orbit the threads are interlaced and a stitch is formed such as shown in
Figure 30. The thread guide 1' is shown in Figure 40. It is similar to the
thread guide 1, but instead of the finger it is provided with a spring rod d',
which catches the shuttle thread and retains it in the position in which it is
shown in Figure 41. It will be noticed that in this case the shuttle thread
passes from the material to be sewed behind the needle and in front of
the shuttle, whereas in. the stitch shown in Figure 37 it passes in front of the
needle and behind the shuttle, otherwise the stitch when finished as shown in

page_text: Figure 43 is similar to that shown in Figure 39, but this latter stitch has the
great advantage that it appears on the surface of the material to be sewed in
a slightly oblique position, thus imitating the ordinary hand stitch on leather
or other similar material, for by examining closely Figures 39 and 43 it will
be observed that if both stitches are drawn up tight, in the former case the
needle thread is twisted while the shuttle thread lays straight, but in the
latter case the shuttle thread is twisted and the needle thread lays straight. The
manner in which the triple lock stitch is formed is shown in Figures 44 to 47.
In this case a thread guide I" is used, such as shown in Figure 44, and by
this thread guide the loop of the needle thread is retained in the position
shown in Figure 46 allowing the shuttle to pass first through the loop of the
needle thread, then through the loop of its own thread, and then again through
the loop of the needle thread. The stitch thus formed is shown in Figure 47,
and when the stitch is drawn up tight it forms a knot which cannot possibly
be ripped, and which is of value for sewing heavy fabrics or materials and
which may also be used for button holes. In order to adjust the machine
for the various stitches the driving shaft F is made hollow, and through it
extends a solid shaft F¹, to one end of which is secured the shuttle driver, while
on its opposite end is mounted the button K. This button is provided with
three notches m¹, m³, m³, as shown particularly in Figure 54; these notches
are intended to receive the spring catch o¹, which is secured to the fly wheel L,
and forms the coupling between the shafts F and F¹; if the button K is
turned so that said spring catch drops into notch m', the machine is set for
the stitch represented by Figures 40 to 43; if the button is turned so
that the spring catch drops into the notch m² the machine is adjusted for
the stitch represented by Figures 36 to 39; and, finally, if the button is
turned so as to allow the spring catch to drop into notch m³ the machine is
set for the triple lock stitch. In this latter case however the spring catch
has to be raised so that it releases the button K after the back gear M is
thrown in gear with the cog wheels N, Q, said back gear is mounted on
a shaft to which a longitudinally sliding motion can be imparted by the
handle p, and the wheel N is nounted on the hollow driving shaft F, while
the wheel Q is mounted on the solid shaft F. The proportion between these
wheels N, Q, and the wheels of the back gear is such that by the action of
said back gear the speed of the shaft F¹ is doubled, and consequently the
shuttle makes two revolutions in its orbit for every stroke of the needle. The
cogs of the wheels of the back gear are rounded, as clearly shown in Figure 2,
so as to facilitate the operation of throwing said wheels in gear with the
wheels N, Q. For the purpose of making the "Grover and Baker" stitch, and

page_text: the ordinary chain stitch, the shuttle is removed, and in the former case the
thread guide is used as shown in Figure 48. The spool of the lower thread
is attached to a pin q', which is secured to any appropriate spot in the stand
A, and the thread guide carries the looper or lower needle r', which is
provided with an eye to receive the lower thread, and which acts in con-
junction with the needlen precisely like the looper or lower needle in the
"Grover and Baker" machine. The chain stitch is produced by the thread
guide shown in Figure 49. This thread guide is provided with a hook s¹,
which catches in the loop of the needle thread and retains the same in the
proper position to allow the needle to pass through, the loop of its own thread.
The operation of removing one of the thread guides, and substituting therefor
another is very simple, and the machine can be readily adjusted for either of
the above-named stitches. If neither of the thread guides are used a stop I³
is inserted, which throws the lever e' out of gear with the cam f. It
remains to describe the sewing guide, which is represented in Figures 59
and 60, the edge guide, which is represented in Figures 61 and 62, and the
braider, which is represented in Figures 31 and 32. The sewing guide R is
composed of a plate, which is secured by means of a stem ' in the front end
of the standard B, and which is provided with an oblique lip w, that bears on
the surface of the material to be sewed, and causes it to work up close to the
gauge '; this gauge is adjustable on a rod w', which is secured to the upper
surface of the guide, and it is held in the desired position by a set screw a².
By adjusting the gange the width of the seam is regulated. The edge
guide T is composed of a rod, which is secured in the front end of the
standard B. and which is curved and bent as shown in the Drawing; its end
is provided with a socket to receive the stud 62, which is furnished with a
round head, and which is subjected to the action of a spring c. This guide
is to be used in sewing thick material, such as leather, and the head of the
stud is made to bear against the edge of said material, so as to produce a
seam which is equidistant from the edge. whether said edge be curved or
straight. The braider U is composed of a U-shaped piece of sheet metal.
which is secured to a curved rod c, to be secured in the front end of the
standard B; said braider is provided with a series of oblique stois d² of
different widths, through which the braid is passed as indicated in Figure 63.
The shank of the centre W is also secured in the standard B (see Figure 52),
and the curved arm which supports the centre is elastic, so that the material
can be readily relieved by raising the centre.
The improvement to be described under the fourth head is represented in
Figures 67 and 68. In these Figures A represents the crank shaft of a

page_text: sewing machine, or of any other machine to which motion is imparted by means
of a treadle. In the Drawing the crank pin a is secured in one of the arms
of the fly wheel B. which is mounted on the shaft, though it must be remarked
that the fly wheel is no essential part of this Invention, and the crank pin
might be arranged in any other suitable manner; said crank pin connects
by the shackle bar C with the treadle D, and in order to prevent the crank
from stopping on one of the dead centres and from turning in the wrong
direction, I have secured on the shaft A a lever cam E', which is placed at an
angle of 45 degrees (more or less), with the crank pin a, as shown in
Figure of the Drawing. This lever cam is subjected to the action of a
spring b. the end of which is armed with a friction roller b'. to prevent wear
on the acting surfaces of the spring and lever cam. By the action of the
spring b on the lever cam E the crank is thrown beyond the dead centres
whenever the motion of the treadle stops, and the crank shaft is kept in such
a position that motion can be imparted to it simply by the action of the foot
on the treadle and without the aid of the hand, and at the same time the
action of the spring on the lever cam renders the motion of the crank shaft
in the wrong direction difficult, and imparts to the entire mechanism the
tendency to revolve in the right direction only. The effect of the spring b
may be increased by an additional spring c, which bears on the opposite side
of the lever cam E, though in most cases a single spring is all that is required
to produce the desired effect. This attachment is of particular value for
sewing machines or other small machines which are operated by treadles,
and which are of such a nature that either the mechanism or the work will be
damaged if the machine is turned in the wrong direction.
The improvements to be described under the fifth head are represented in
Figures 69 to 72, and in these Figures A represents a grooved pulley, which
is composed of two discs a, a, each of which is provided with an annular
recess on its inner surface to receive the plates b, of india-rubber or other soft.
and elastic material. The two discs a, a, are united by a screw thread c, which
allows of adjusting the same closer together or further apart according to the
thickness of the belt which is to be used on the pulley. The india-rubber
plates bare protected by a layer d of leather, felt, or other flexible material.
and these layers are held in place by a plate e of metal or other rigid material,
which is fitted between the two discs a, a¹.
In applying this Invention to a flat-faced pulley A* I take a core a of
wood or metal, cover the same with a layer bx of india-rubber or other soft
and elastic material; and this layer is finally covered by a jacket d* of leather
or other flexible material as shown in Figure 3, the leather being riveted to a

page_text: metal thimble e is firmly secured to the core a*. By these means grooved
or flat-faced pulleys can be constructed, which effectually prevent a belt from
slipping, or which enables a belt to draw five or more times as much as
pullies of the ordinary construction, according to the tension applied to the
belt. This statement can be substantiated by a simple trial with weights as
indicated in Figures 2 and 4, where the small weights represent the tension
of the belts, and the large weights the power required to make the belt slip.
Having described the nature of this Invention, and the manner of
performing the same. I declare that what I claim as the Invention to be
protected by the herein-before in part recited Letters Patent is,
1st, the globe enclosing the spool of the needle thread in combination with
said spool, and with a tension spring bearing on the surface of the thread,
substantially as and for the purpose described.
2nd, the tension regulator E, constructed as shown in Figure 18.
3rd, passing the needle thread through between a spring and lip or their
equivalents, as described, whereby the thread is caused to slip through the eye
of the needle when the latter descends, and the formation of loops on the
upper surface of the material to be sewed is prevented.
4th, the elastic pad, in combination with the jointed needle slide, and with
the needle n, constructed and operating substantially as and for the purpose set
forth.
5th, the perforated flat sole shuttle S, in combination with the shoe G
(Figure 20) and with the needle n. arranged and operating substantially as
and for the purpose described.
6th, imparting to the shuttle a tilting motion by means of a curved tail
piece, or any other equivalent means, for the purpose set forth.
7th, the false shuttle S', with tongue e³, and hook (Figures 9 and 10),
in combination with the shoe G and needle n. constructed, and operating
substantially as and for the purpose described.
"
8th, the cavity h. **, (Figure 5), in combination with the book ³, as
described.
9th, the cavity in combination with the sole of the shuttle, and with
the shuttle race, constructed and operating substantially as and for the purpose
set forth.
10th; the use of an adjustable centre C* (Figure 15). with or without an
elastic shank, in combination with the laterally moving, rising, and falling
needle n, constructed and operating substantially as and for the purpose
described.
11th, the extension attachment 12*, in combination with the centre (*

page_text: (Figure 16), constructed and operating substantially as and for the purpose
set forth.
12th, the design wheel z³ (Figure 3); in combination with a sewing
mechanism, constructed and operating substantially as and for the purpose
described.
13th, the tracer, and adjustable cloth guide M, in combination with the
design wheel 3, and with a sewing mechanism constructed and operating
substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
14th, the slotted bracket g³, or any equivalent device in combination with
the design wheel z substantially as and for the purpose described.
15th, combining with the vibrating and oscillating needle arm of a sewing
machine an adjustable inclined plane or combination of inclined planes and
pads, substantially in the manner herein described for the purpose of regulating
the feed motion of the needle.
16th, the arrangement of a friction spring in combination with a vibrating
and oscillating needle arm, constructed and operating substantially as and for
the purpose set forth.
17th, the arrangement of a set screw or other equivalent fastening in com-
bination with the vibrating and oscillating needle arm, constructed and
operating substantially as and for purpose described.
18th, the elastic roller b' in combination with clamping screw and thread
guide a (Figure 24) substantially as and for the purpose described.
19th, the guide'g' (Figures 28 and 29) applied to the top edge of the bobbin
hokler M, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
20th, the friction brush e¹ or its equivalent (Figures 28 and 29) in com-
bination with the bobbin K and bobbin holder M, constructed and operating
substantially as and for the purpose described.
21st, replacing "the ordinary feed motion of a "Wheeler and Wilson "
sewing machine by' a chain stitch mechanism, substantially such as herein
specified, or by any other equivalent mechanism which in combination with
the needle i will produce the same effect.
22nd, the protector n', Figure 25, in combination with the revolving hook
I and with a chain stitch mechanism, constructed and operating substantially
as and for the purpose set forth.
23rd, the seam guide N or NX in combination with a sewing mechanism
constructed and operating substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
24th, providing the oscillating arm which takes up the shank of the needle
thread with an oblong slot, substantially as described, so as to keep the loop of
the needle thread open to let the shuttle pass twice.

page_text: 25th, the flat shank needle n, such as shown in Figure 52...
26th, the arrangement of a braid guide in the cloth plate, substantially as
and for the purpose described...
27th, the rough surface clamp (Figures 33 and 34) in combination with
the needle feed to hold the material while the stitch is being finished.
28th, the wedge-shaped discoidal shuttle with one curved point and a rounded-
stern, as shown in Figure 55.
29th, the double pointed shuttle, as shown in Figure 57.
30th, the ridge a' on the sole of the shuttle, substantially as and for the
purpose described.
31st, the elastic centre pressing from either end or from both, in combination
with the revolving shuttle, constructed and operating substantially as and for
the purpose set forth.
32nd, the hook in the shuttle case V (Figure 33) constructed and
operating substantially as and for the purpose described.
33rd, the circular ridge near the outer edge of the shuttle race, substantially
as described, to allow the shuttle to clear its own thread and to leave the loop
of the needle thread free to pass over the shuttle.
34th, the button K (Figure 54) provided with a series of notches in com-
bination with a suitable stop or latch, and with the shafts F, F¹, and shuttle
driver H constructed and operating substantially as and for the purpose set
forth.
35th, the back gear M (Figure 34) in combination with the shafts F, F,
shuttle driver H, and needle n, constructed and operating substantially as and
for the purpose described.
36th, the method herein described of producing a stitch by the combined
action of the thread guide I¹, shuttle S, and needle n, substantially as shown
in Figures 36 to 39 inclusive.
37th, the method herein described of producing a stitch by the combined
action of the thread guide I', shuttle S, and needle n, substantially as shown
in Figures 40 to 43 inclusive.
38th, the method herein described of producing a stitch by the com-
bined action of the thread guide 12, shuttle S, and needle n, the shuttle being
passed twice through the same loop of the needle thread as shown in Figures
44 to 47 inclusive.
39th, the method herein described of finishing the stitch by giving to the
shuttle thread a tension when that part of the shuttle from which the thread
emanates passes in its orbit opposite the needle, thus finishing the stitch at

page_text: once and without waiting for the next loop by means of the revolving shuttle
and elastic centre, substantially as set forth.
40th, the thread guide 13, constructed as described in combination with the
needlen for the purpose set forth.
41st, the thread guide I', constructed and operating in combination with the
needle n; substantially as and for the purpose described.
42nd, the sewing guide R, as represented in Figures 59 and 60.
43rd, the edge guide T, as shown in Figures 61 and 62.
44th, the braider U, as shown in Figures 63 and 64.
45th, the lever cam E in combination with one or more springs 6, crank
shaft A, crank pin a, and treadle D, as shown in Figures 67 and 68, and
operating substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
46th, constructing the working face or faces of a pulley of one or more
layers of india-rubber or other soft and elastic material covered with
leather, metal, or other suitable material, substantially as and for the purpose
described.
47th, the combination and arrangement of the adjustable discs a, a', india-
rubber ples b, leather faces d, and intervening metal plate e, all as shown
in Figures 69 to 72 inclusive, and operating substantially as and for the
purpose set forth.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Clark, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Eighteenth day of January, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-seven..
Witness,
JAMES DAISH;
53, Chancery Lane,
London.
W. CLARK. (L.S.)