Improvements in and relating to the Manufacture of Ribbed Under- garments and similar Knitted Artioles.
Year: 1890

page_text: Date of Application, 22nd Feb., 1890
Complete Specification Left. 24th Nov., 1890-Accepted, 17th Jan., 1891
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in and relating to the Manufacture of Ribbed Under-
garments and similar Knitted Artioles.
We, CHARLES ERNEST THOMSON, of New Fairfield Works, Old Bailey in the City
of London, and ARTHUR STEPHEN ROGERS of Dagfa Cot, Broadgate, Beeston in the
County of Nottingham, Mannfacturers, do hereby declare the nature of this invention
to be as follows:-
--
Our invention relates to the manufacture of ribbed under-garments and other
knitted articles and is designed to provide for stiffening and for narrowing the said
articles when necessary, so that they will adapt themselves more effectually than
heretofore to the shape of the body of the wearer.
"
"
Our said improvements are applicable to articles formed with different ribs such as
one and one" rib or a
"6 two and one ""two and two,"
""six and three or other
variations in the disposal of the frame and machine needles.
a
The said articles have hitherto been made upon flat or circular frames with or
without fashioning; the shape being mainly produced by variations in the stitch,
which cause certain parts to lie wider than others.
The stitches hitherto used are what are known as (a) "plain work" (b) "royal
rib" and (c) "polka rib."
✓
(a). In "plain work" both the frame and machine needles work and complete their
stitches in every course.
(b). In "
royal rib," one course is composed of "plain work," and in the alternate
course both sets of needles receive loops, but only one set (usually the frame
needles) knock them over and complete their stitches, the other set of needles
" tucking."
(c). In "polka rib" both sets receive their loops in every course; but in one
course the machine needles tuck and the frame needles knock their stitches over; and
in the next course the process is reversed, and the practical needles only complete
their stitches:
"
I mention these stitches at length in order to explain the special stitch which I
use for the waist of the article, or for other parts if desired. In this special stitch
the first course is composed of "plain work; and in the alternate course the frame
needles only receive loops, which they knock over and complete, the machine needles
meanwhile remaining idle, but still holding the stitches they formed in the first
course. The following course is again "plain work" and the next as course number
two. The same stitch may also be produced if the above described process is
A modifica-
reversed, and the frame needles be inactive during the alternate course.
tion also of this special stitch may be produced, by making two plain courses upon
one set of needles, alternating with a plain course upon both sets.
We apply this special stitch, or the modification thereof above named, to ribbed
under-bodices, vests, or shirts, as being superior to the plain work hitherto used for
the waist or any other part required to be made narrow. "Plain work" handles
thinner than the "royal" or "polka" work in which it is used in conjunction;
whereas this special stitch or its inodification more nearly matches the other work
both in appearance and in thickness.
We also provide in any desired part of the body a variation in stiffness, or length
of loop drawn, produced by the application of stiffening tackle to the frame by which
means the article is male to fit better. By this means also the sudden transition
from แ royal" or "polka rib" (which are usually slack and wide) to "plain work'
or to the special stitch is avoided; consequently in my goods there is no tendency
to:frill or pucker at the point of juncture. I make use of this variation of stitch also
"

page_text: at the shoulder, in order to contract that part, and ensure a better fit. Variations
in stiffness have already been made in the welt; or the "plain work" in the waist
has been made stiffer than the "royal" or "polka" work; but no graduation of
stiffness has hitherto been applied in any one kind of work.
In the manufacture of these articles, say a ribbed under-bodice, the following is
the usual procedure:-First the welt is made by any of the usual methods used upon
rib frames. Following this the lower and wider part of the body is of royal or polka
stitch. Then comes the waist, which in order to be reduced in width is of plain
work. After this there is a continuation of royal or polka stitch, either right up
to the top of the shoulder, or with a short length of plain work to reduce width at
this point.
Dated this 22nd day of February 1890.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in and relating to the Manufacture of Ribbed Under-
garments and similar Knitted Articles.
We, CHARLES ERNEST THOMSON, of New Fairfield Works, Old Bailey, in the City
of London, and ARTHUR STEPHEN ROGERS, of Dagfacot, Broadgate, Beeston, in the
County of Nottingham Manufacturers do hereby declare the nature of this invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement :-
Our invention relates to the manufacture of ribbed under garments and other
knitted articles and is designed to provide improved means for stiffening and
for narrowing the said articles where necessary so that they will adapt themselves
more effectually than heretofore to the shape of the body of the wearer.
<<
Our said improvements are applicable to articles formed with different ribs such as
"
"one and one rib, or a two and one," " two and two,"
," "six and three," or other
variations in the disposal of the frame and machine needles.
a
The said articles have hitherto been made upon flat or circular frames with or
without fashioning, the shape being mainly produced by variations in the stitch which
cause certain parts to be wider than others.
Now by our present invention we provide for narrowing the work by means of a
special stitch hereinafter described.
The accompanying drawing serves to indicate how we prefer to apply our improved
special stitch to a ladies' ribbed under bodice.
The portion of the under bodice marked between A and B is formed of royal or
polka rib as is also the part from C to D. The narrowing from B to C.is formed of
the special stitch herein before referred to, the position of the gradations of stiffness
in the fabric being indicated by the lines x, x.
The stitches hitherto used are what are known as (a) "plain-work," (b) "royal
rib," and (c) "polka rib."
(a). In "plain work" both the frame and machine needles work andcom plete their
stitches in every course.
(b). The royal rib one course is composed of plain work and in the alternate course
both sets of needles receive loops but only one set (usually the frame needles) knock
them over and complete their stitches the other set tucking.
(c). In polka-rib both sets receive their loops in every course, but in one course the
machine needles tuck and the frame needles knock their stitches over, and in
the next course the process is reversed and the machine needles only complete their
stitches.
We mention these stitches at length in order to explain the special stitch which we
use for the waist of the article or for other parts if desired. In this special stitch
the first course is composed of "plain work" and in the alternate course the frame
needles only receive loops which they knock over and complete, the machine needles

page_text: meanwhile remaining idle but still holding the stitches they formed in the first course.
The following course is again plain work, and the next, as course number two. The
samme stitch may also be produced if the above described process is reversed and the
frame needles be inactive during the alternate course.
A modification also of this special stitch may be produced by making two plain
courses upon one set of needles, alternating with a plain course upon both sets.
We apply this special stitch or the modification thereof above named to ribbed
under bodices vests or shirts as being superior to the plain work hitherto used for the
waist or any other part required to be made narrow. "Plain work" handles thinner
than the royal or polka work in which it is used in conjunction, whereas this special
stitch or its modification more nearly matches the other work both in appearance and
in thickness.
"
We also provide in any desired part of the body a variation in stiffness or length
of loop drawn produced by the application of stiffening tackle to the frame by which
means the article is made to fit better. By this means also the sudden transitions
from "royal" or "polka" rib which are usually slack and wide to "plain work or
to the special stitch is avoided, consequently in our goods there is no tendency to frill
or pucker at the point of juncture. We make use of this variation of stiffness also
at the shoulder in order to contract that part and ensure a better fit. Variations in
stiffness have already been made in the welt, or the plain work in the waist has been
made stiffer than the royal or polka work, but no graduation of stiffness has hitherto
been applied to any one kind of work.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we
claim is :-
First. A ribbed undergarment or similar knitted article a part or parts of which is
or are formed of the special stitch as hereinbefore set forth.
Second. A ribbed undergarment or similar knitted article wherein a variation of
stiffness is produced by varying the length of the stitch substantially as hereinbefore
described and for the purposes set forth.
11-
1
1000
2534
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
45, Southampton Buildings, London, Agents for the Applicants.