IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES
Year: 1881

page_text: PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by Alfred Julius Boult at the Office of
the Commissioners of Patents on the 15th September 1881. A communi-
cation from abroad by Jean Jarlan, of Toulouse, in the Republic of France.
ALFRED JULIUS BOULT, of the Firm of W. P. Thompson & Boult, Agents for
Foreign Patent Solicitors, of 323, High Holborn, London, in the County of
Middlesex, and of 6, Lord Street, Liverpool, in the County of Lancaster, Consulting
Engineer. "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES." [A communication from abroad
by Jean Jarlan, of Toulouse, in the Republic of France.]
This Invention is particularly applicable to sewing machines with an underneath
feed motion, and consists in special forms of or attachments to the "presser feet,"
the object being to sew on without preliminary basting the cords or beads, known
in France as "passe-poils," and used especially for military trowsers.
Several different forms of these presser feet may be used, and they are all made
by preference of metal. One resembles an ordinary presser foot, but is curved on
its face and serves for placing the passe poil on the cloth, and maintaining it at an
even distance from the seam which is underneath the presser foot. The next is
similar, but is provided or formed with two arms or teeth of different length, and
serves for making the second stitches of the passe poil, said stitches being kept at
the same distance by one arm of the presser foot, sliding along the edge of the
passe poil, which is between two layers of cloth.
No. 2. This serves for sewing "stripes," upon artillery trowsers, and by its use
the inside of a stripe can be sewn upon trowsers without the necessity of basting,
the edge of the material being laid against a groove in the guide. It consists of a
divided plate with shoulders at the required ports, and a groove or channel through
which the cloth slides.
No. 3 is for putting passe poils upon tunics and capes without basting, and
consists of a plate or guide, upon which are mounted two sliding pieces, securable
by binding screws, so as to be adjustable for the proper width, the presser foot
having a groove or tube at its lower end; it serves for making the first seam of the
passe poil.
No. 4 is very similar to No. 1, and serves to regulate the sewing on of the passe
poils, which without it would be laid on irregularly..

page_text: No. 5 is for laying down without basting the turned down edge of the stripes.
It is formed by two plates overlapping one another in half their thickness, and
having at about their centre a groove or channel with ends turned over, so that by
moving the plates one upon the other (binding screws are provided for fixing them)
the size of the groove may be altered to suit circumstances. The grooves serve
to keep the cloth stretched in the direction of its width.
In No. 6 the presser foot carries a guide for sewing the outside seam of trowser
stripes. A movable piece fixed by a binding screw is held at a distance from the
groove in the presser foot, equal to the width of the stripe when the folds are
"laid down."
No. 7 serves for directly sewing on the inner edge of the stripe coming from
No. 6. Two little screwes in the underside of the presser foot may be loosened
for the purpose of adjusting the groove of the presser foot at such distance from
the needle throat that the stitches made shall correspond with the stitches made by
No. 6. A special feature of this device is that it can be used for making raised
seams upon ordinary garinents.
No. 8 is really an improved form of guide No. 2; the latter only allows stripes
of predetermined width to be sewn on, whereas No. 8 is adjustable, the sliding and
cross pieces being movable and secured by binding screws.