Improved Method of Making Open-front Bosom Shirts.
Year: 1890

page_text: Date of Application, 1st Feb., 1890
Complete Specification Left, 28th June, 1890-Accepted, 13th Sept., 1890
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improved Method of Making Open-front Bosom Shirts.
I, ROBERT CLUETT, of Troy, in the County of Rensselaer and State of New York,
United States of America, Shirt Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this
invention to be as follows :-
Heretofore it has been the practice in some instances to fold the shirt, body front
and its attached side re-enforce pieces within the reversed plies of a continuous or closed
front bosom, run stitching around the outer adjacent raw edges of the several parts,
and subsequently turn the body and re-enforces out, thus leaving the several bosom
plies in their proper final relations, with the first securing line of stitching covered
and concealed by both the front and back plies. In this method there is found one
continuous space between the bosom-plies, into which the body and its attached
pieces can be folded; but where the bosom is open in front, the edges at the
opening being previously stitched, there are two spaces or half-spaces, instead of one
within the reversed bosom-plies, the division between which not only interferes with
the use of the prior method but makes it impracticable.
The object of my invention is to accomplish the insertion of the open-front bosom
in the shirt-body front by stitching each side alternately with the body-front and
its attached pieces when inclosed between the reversed plies of each half of the
bosom, and especially with a re-enforce piece secured to the body at the bottom of
the opening for the bosom so enclosed. In the prior method there was introsuscep
tion of the body-front within the reversed bosom-plies. Here double and reversed
introsusception of the body within these plies not only is adopted, but also the
alternate introsusception of each half of the bosom material within the plies of the
other half.
Dated this 1et day of February 1890
ROBERT CLUETT.
By his Agents,
Horn & Son.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improved Method of Making Open-front Bosom Shirts.
I, ROBERT CLUETT, of Troy, in the County of Rensselaer and State of New York,
United States of America, Shirt Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement:
My invention relates to an improvement in the art of inserting open-front bosoms
in shirt body fronts.
Heretofore it has been the practice in some instances to fold the shirt-body front
and its attached side re-inforce pieces within the reversed plies of a continuous or
closed-front bosom, run stitching around the outer adjacent raw edges of the several
parts, and subsequently turn the body and re-inforces out, thus leaving the several
bosom-plies in their proper final relations, with the first securing-line of stitching
covered and concealed by both the front and back plies. In this method there is
found one continuous space between the bosom plies into which the body and its
attached pieces can be folded; but where the bosom is open in front, the edges at the
opening being previously stitched, there are two spaces or half spaces, instead of one
within the reversed bosom-plies, the division between which not only interferes
with the use of the prior method, but makes it impracticable.

page_text: The object of my invention is to accomplish the insertion of the open front bosom
in the shirt-body front by stitching each side alternately with the body-front and its
attached pieces when enclosed between the reversed plies of each balf of the bosom,
and especially with a re-enforce piece secured to the body at the bottom of the
opening for the bosom so enclosed. In the prior method there was introsusception
of the body-front within the reversed bosom plies. Here double and reversed
introsusception of the body within these plies not only is adopted, but also the
alternate introsusception of each half of the bosom material within the plies of the
other half.
I attain this object stated by or through the steps and stages described in the
specification and illustrated in the accompanying drawings, in which
Figure 1 is a front view of the upper portion of the shirt-body front, with re-
enforces attached on each side of the opening made to receive the bosom. Figure 2
is a back view of the same. Figure 3 is a front view of the open-front bosom.
Figure 4 is a front view of the tab. Figure 5 is a plan view of the folded bottom
re-enforce, and Figure 6 is a sectional view of Figure 5, cut on the dotted line
shown on Figure 5. These six figures represent steps of the first stage of manufac-
ture. Figure 7 is a front view of the upper part of the shirt-body front re-enforces,
tab, and bottom re-enforce secured together; and Figure 17 is a sectional view of the
same cut on the dotted line shown on Figure 7. These two figures represent the
second stage of manufacture. Figure 8 is a part front and part back view of
the bosom, tab, shirt-body front, and bottom re-enforce secured at the bottom of the
opening for the bosom; and Figure 18 is a sectional view cut on the dotted line
shown in Figure 8. These two figures represent the third stage of manufacture.
Figure 9 is a front view with the shirt-body front, tab, re-enforces, and one half of
the open-front bosom folded into the reverse plies of the other half of the bosom, the
-outer edge of which is stitched to the shirt-body front and re-enforce adjacent
thereto; and Figure 10 is a horizontal sectional view of Figure 9, cut on the dotted
line shown on Figure 9. Figures 9 and 10 represent the fourth stage. Figure 11
is a sectional view cut substantially on the sanie dotted line shown in Figure 9, but
with all the parts shown in Figure 10 reversed or folded within the reversed plies of
the other or opposite half of the open-front bosom, the adjacent parts being stitched
together at the edge of that half of the bosom as before; and Figure 9 may be
taken to represent an outside view of Figure 11. Thus Figures 9 and 11 represent
the fifth stage of manufacture. Figure 12 is the front view of the shirt-body front,
bosom and tab, with the parts turned out of the last-mentioned bosom half; and
Figure, 13 the back view of the lower part of Figure 12. The two together
represent the sixth stage of manufacture. Figure 15 is a front view of the upper
part of the shirt-body front, re-enforces, open-front bosom, and tab, with a final line
of stitching around the edge of the bosom securing it to the shirt-body, the two side and
the bottom re-enforces and the tab, and also with a line of stitching through the top
edge of the bottom re-enforce and the open bosom at the bottom. Figure 14 is a
back view of the bottom portion represented in Figure 15. Figure 16 is a horizontal
sectional view cut on the horizontal dotted line shown in Figure 15, and Figure 19
is a vertical sectional view cut on the vertical dotted line shown in Figure 15.
Figures 14, 15, 16, and 19 represent the seventh stage of manufacture.
Similar letters relate to similar parts throughout the several views.
Figure 1 is a front view of the upper part of the shirt-body front B, provided,
adjacent to the bosom, with a re-enforce R, located at the sides of the bosom
opening and stitched on its outer edge, as usual. Figure 2 is a rear view of the
same. Figure 3 is a front view of the open-front bosom A. Figure 4 is a front
view of the shirt-tab G; and Figures 5 and 6 are views of a folded re-enforce
strip S to be located and secured at the bottom of the shirt-bosom. The open-
front bosom is especially weak and liable to injury at or near the bottom of the
opening, where the strain naturally comes when the parts are separated in
laundering and in use. The strip S is a re-enforce or stay intended to give
strength and durability at that part of the shirt and bosom. The series of steps

page_text: represented in Figures 1 to 6, inclusive, represent the first stage in the art of
making the shirt. The tab and the side re-enforces may be omitted without avoiding
my invention; but I prefer to use them, as they give increased strength to the
shirt.
Figures 7 and 17 represent the second stage, the latter in vertical part section
cut on the sectional line shown in Figure 7, in which the tab and the re-enforce
strip S are secured to the shirt-body front at the bottom of the bosom opening, by
the lines of stitches T and T', as shown in Figures 7 and 17. One of these stitches
may be omitted but I prefer the two.
Figures 8 and 18 represent the third stage, the latter in vertical part section, in
which the bosom A, except as to the back layer, preferably is secured to the shirt-
body by a line of stitches T2, inserted from the back of the bosom, or with the
bosom reversed, as shown in Figure 8.
Figures 9 and 10 represent the fourth stage, the latter in horizontal section, in
which one side of the bosom is attached to the shirt body front and re-enforce by the
line of stitches T3, the body-front B of the shirt. being at the time pocketed with
the remaining half of the shirt-bosom, together with the other half of the shirt-
bosom, as shown in Figures 9 and 10. After the stitches T³ are inserted the
interior parts are turned out through the opening at the top.
Figures 9 and 11 represent the fifth stage, the latter in horizontal section, in
which the other side of the bosom is secured to the shirt-body front and re-enforced
by a line of stitching T3 on the other side of the bosom, practically as shown in
Figure 9 reversed, the body-front re-enforce tab, and the other or opposite side of
the bosom being pocketed, as represented in sectional view Figure 11.
Figure 12 represents a front view, and Figure 13 a back view, of the sixth stage,
in which the interior parts have been turned out from the bosom after the line of
stitching T3 on that side is inserted, whereupon T³ will be covered by the outside
bosom-plies, both front and rear.
Figure 14 shows a rear view, Figure 15 a front view, and Figure 16 a sectional
view cut on the horizontal sectional line on Figure 15, of the seventh stage, with
the line of stitching T inserted across the top of the bottom re-enforce S, and the
line of stitching T5 inserted through the edge of the bosom, re-enforce, shirt-body
front, and all the plies of the bosom on both sides of the same.
Figure 9 shows the position at the time when the first line of stitching T³ is
made on one side of the bosom. When this side is finished, the shirt-body front,
re-enforce, tab, and the other half of the open-front hosom are turned out of the
half thus stitched, and the shirt-body front, re-enforce, tab, and stitched half of
the bosom turned into the open unstitched half of it, as shown in Figure 11, the
line of stitching T3 is then inserted on that side also, whereupon the inclosed parts
are again turned outward, and the relations of the parts and stitching will be found
to be as shown in Figure 12. Then follow the making of the lines of stitching T
across the re-enforce S and T5 around the bosom, when this part of the shirt is
finished or completed. Of course, when there is no re-enforce, and where there is
no tab, the shirt-front may be folded in and stitched to the bosom in the same way
as to both sides without avoiding my invention. The fine linen ply of the bosom
and its various relative locations are indicated by the letter L those of the back
layer of the bosom by the letter L2, and those of the mid-layer or interply by the
letter L'.
The line of stitching T may be omitted without avoiding my invention; but I
prefer to use it.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is:
The improvement in the art of inserting open-front bosoms in shirt-body fronts,
consisting in folding the shirt-body front and the plies of each half of the bosom

page_text: into or within the reversed plies of the other half of the bosom, and stitching the
exposed, reversed, and adjacent raw edges of the body and bosom together, substan-
tially as shown and described.
DL: 001 JC T 1000
ROBERT CLUETT.
By his Agents,
Horn & Son.