IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY USED IN THE MANUFACTURE OF HATS OR COVERINGS FOR THE HEAD
Year: 1879

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to John Turner, of Whitehouse Iron Works, Denton, in the
County of Lancaster, Engineer, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN
MACHINERY USED IN THE MANUFACTURE OF HATS OR COVERINGS FOR THE
HEAD."
Sealed the 27th February 1880, and dated the 15th September 1879.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said John Turner at the Office of
the Commissioners of Patents on the 15th September 1879.
JOHN TURNER, of Whitehouse Iron Works, Denton, in the County of Lancaster,
Engineer. "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY USED IN THE MANUFACTURE OF HATS
OR COVERINGS FOR THE HEAD."
Firstly. My Invention relates to machinery for what is termed "ironing" hats,
and consists in a combination and arrangement of mechanism for the purpose,
namely, a plate arranged so that it can move up and down in guides in the framing
of the machine.
This plate has a sheet of india rubber or other suitable elastic material secured
to its underside, and this india-rubber is faced with a thin sheet of metal.
The plate is connected with a screw lever, or knuckle joint levers, or other suitable
mechanism for moving the plate up and down and pressing it upon the brim of the
hat to be "ironed," the thin plate of metal backed by india-rubber coming against
the brim of the hat the india rubber serving to distribute the pressure equally over
the entire surface to be acted upon.
The hat to be operated upon is held in moulds or forms on a table or frame that
can be moved or slided to and fro horizontally on guides or rails from or carried by
the framing of the machine, and when slided in one direction it is against a stop
and directly under the pressure plate, and when moved outward in the other
direction from under the pressure plate the hat can be conveniently removed and
replaced. By this means not only is the operation more convenient but the pressure
plate need only have a short up and down movement.
The sliding or moving plate, or frame, has a hole in it, and projections to carry
an oval rectangular sectioned box, the upper side of which is formed by wire gauze,
and this oval box has one or more tubes descending from its lower side into the
centre of which short tubes are secured which leave a space for air, and these short
[Price fid

page_text: central tubes are connected by india rubber tubes with pipes conveying a supply of
gas which thus enters the oval box along with sufficient air for perfect combustion,
burning above the wire gauze.
Above the oval box or burner the mould or form is placed; it is somewhat of
hat shape, that part corresponding with the body of the hat descending a little
below the oval box or burner, and within this part of the mould or form a hollow
flat oval ring of metal, is secured; but it does not touch the inside of the form except
at three or four points, so that an air space is left between the two. The hollow
flat oval ring is kept cool by a stream of cold water from any convenient source of
supply brought to and taken away by india-rubber tubes.
"
By this arrangement the form or mould against which the brim of the hat is
pressed is kept hot, and at the same time this heat is prevented from affecting or
acting upon the body of the hat. When the hat is operated upon a thin metal plate
ring the shape of the brim is left on the hat on which it was placed when the hat
(as it is termed) was "curled" which thin ring is removed when the "ironing"
operation has been completed, which takes only a few seconds of time.
Secondly. My Invention relates to machines used for "curling or turning the
brims of hats, and consists in a combination and arrangement of apparatus operated
by screw or lever pressure. There is a frame which carries a table that supports
the moulds or forms upon which the hat is placed to have its brim curled. This
table is or may be made to move or slide in and out horizontally so as to bring the
hat under the pressing or forming apparatus, and take it from under so that the hat
may be easily removed and replaced.
In vertical guides on the framing there is a cylinder arranged to move up and
down. The upper end of this cylinder is closed, and within it an india rubber bag
or diaphragm is secured or placed, and the cavity is partly filled with water by
means of a cock and pipe.
The cylinder is connected with a screw, or with levers or excentrics or knuckle
jointed levers and a crank, which act to lift the cylinder and force it down so as to
bring the elastic bag firmly against the brim, the liquid retained in the interior of
the bag allowing it to accommodate itself to and forcing it against the brim of the
hat and against the mould or form which is to give it the shape required. The
same liquid remains in the bag during and after each operation, but the quantity
of liquid may be increased or diminished until the best result is attained.
Instead of moving the cylinder up and down it may be stationary, and the table
may be moved up and down to force the hat brim against the india-rubber bag
secured to the cylinder.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said John Turner in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 12th March
1880..
JOHN TURNER, of Whitehouse Iron Works, Denton, in the County of Lancaster,
Engineer "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY USED IN THE MANUFACTURE OF HATS
OR COVERINGS FOR THE HEAD."
Firstly. My Invention relates to machinery for what is termed "ironing hats,"
and consists in a combination and arrangement of mechanism for the purpose,
namely, a plate arranged so that it can move up and down in guides in the framing
of the machine.
This plate has a sheet of india rubber or other suitable elastic material secured
to its underside, and this india rubber is faced with a thin sheet of metal. The
plate is connected with a screw lever, or knuckle joint levers, or other suitable
mechanism for moving the plate up and down and pressing it upon the brim of the
hat to be "ironed," the thin plate of metal backed by india rubber coming against
the brim of the hat; the india rubber serving to distribute the pressure equally
over the entire surface to be acted upon.
The hat to be operated upon is held in moulds or forms on a table or frame that
can be moved or slided to and fro horizontally on guides or rails formed upon or
carried by the framing of the machine, and when slided in one direction it is against
a stop or stops and directly under the pressure plate, and when moved outward in
the other direction from under the pressure plate the hat can be conveniently
removed and replaced. By this means not only is the operation more convenient
but the pressure plate need only have a short up and down movement.
The sliding or moving plate or frame has a hole in it, and projections to carry an
oval rectangular sectioned box, the upper side of which is formed by wire gauze,
and this oval box has one or more tubes descending from its lower side into the
centre of which short tubes are secured which leave a space for air, and these short
central tubes are connected by india rubber tubes with pipes conveying a supply of
gas which thus enters the oval box along with sufficient air for perfect combustion,
burning above the wire gauze.
In place of the oval box or burner I prefer to use a tube in the ring form, the
upper side of it having numerous slits or perforations cut or formed in it for the
mixed air and gas to pass through and burn. The gas is from a pipe arranged to
issue as a jet and drive air in with it into the tube forming the ring burner.
Above the oval box or burner the mould or form is placed; it is somewhat of hat
shape, that part corresponding with the body of the hat descending a little below
the oval box or burner, and within this part of the mould or form a hollow flat
oval ring of metal is secured; but it does not touch the inside of the form except at .
three or four points at the lower edge, so that an air space is left between the two.
The hollow flat oval ring is kept cool by a stream of cold water or other
cooling fluid from any convenient source of supply brought to and taken away by
india rubber tubes. By this arrangement the form or mould against which the
brim of the hat is pressed is kept hot, and at the same time this heat is prevented
from affecting or acting upon the body of the hat.
ள்
When the hat is operated upon a thin metal plate ring, the shape of the brim is
left on the hat on which it was placed when the hat was (as it is termed) "curled,"
and this thin ring is removed when the "ironing" operation has been completed,
(which takes only. a few seconds of time.
For some forms of hats the moulds will have to be made in halves to allow the
hat to be placed and removed. In this case the sliding plate, shaper, gas-burner,

page_text: and cooler will have to be made in halves, and either the gas and water will have
to be conveyed to each half separately, or the gas and water will have to be carried
from one half to the other by india rubber or other suitable tubes that will allow
the halves to be separated and then brought together again as desired.
The improved machine forming the subject of the first part of my Invention by
a suitable modification of the mould or shaper is or may be applied for "setting,"
as it is termed, that is, after the hat brim has been "curled," "ironed," "trimmed,"
and "bound," it is brought to this machine to have the finished curve or shape
given to the brim.
Instead of the presser plate being brought up and down by a screw it may
be fixed, and the rails carrying the sliding table may be mounted on vertical
guides and moved up to press the brim or set it by a screw or other means.
The arrangement of a hollow partition which is kept cool by water or other cooling
fluid circulating through it, as hereinbefore described, may also be used according
to my Invention when it is desired to heat one part of a hat and keep another
part cool in arrangements for heating, curling, and shaping by the hand iron
or otherwise.
Secondly. My Invention relates to machines used for "curling" or turning the
brims of hats, and consists in a combination and arrangement of apparatus operated
by a screw, levers, or other suitable mechanism. There is a frame which carries a
table that supports the moulds or forms upon which the hat is placed to have its
brim curled. This table is or may be made to move or slide in and out horizontally
so as to bring the hat under the pressing or forming apparatus, and take it from
under so that the hat may be easily removed and replaced.
In vertical guides on the framing there is a cylinder arranged to move up and
down. The upper end of this cylinder is closed, and within it an india rubber bag
or diaphragm is secured or placed, and the cavity is partly filled with water or
other fluid by means of a cock and pipe communicating with a cistern, or a pipe
and funnel.
The cylinder is connected with a screw or with levers, or one or more excentrics
or knuckle jointed levers, and a crank or cranks which act to lift the cylinder and
force it down so as to bring the elastic bag firmly against the brim; the liquid
retained in the interior of the bag allowing it to accommodate itself to and forcing
it against the brim of the hat and against the mould or form which is to give it the
shape required. The same liquid or fluid remains in the bag during and after each
operation, but the quantity of liquid may be increased or diminished until the best
result is attained.
Instead of moving the cylinder up and down it may be stationary, and the table
may be moved up and down to force the hat brim against the india rubber bag
secured to the cylinder.
This machine may also be used for "setting" or giving the finished shape to the
brims of hats by using the required forms or shapers.
Fig. 1 is a sectional elevation, Fig. 2 is a front elevation, and Fig. 3 is a plan
view illustrating the mode of carring out the first part of my Invention. a is the
stand or framing, the upper part of which has a boss in which a screw nut bush is
secured for a screw b that is rotated to and fro by a hand wheel b'.
To the lower end of the screw (b) a plate 62 is connected so as to rise and fall
with the screw as will be readily understood. The plate slides up and down V
grooves formed in the framing. The plate (62) is of the size and shape required,
and on its underside there is a sheet of india rubber b³ which is held up to the
pressing plate by a thin metal plate b¹, through the centre of which a set screw b³
passes as shown. This india rubber (63) allows the thin plate (64) to bed upon the
brim of the hat to be ironed.
There are two horizontal rails c carried by or secured to the side framing upon
which a table d can be slided to and fro by a handle d', and there are projections c¹
at both ends of the rails to come against projections on the table d and act as stops

page_text: to its movement each way. When the table is against one set of stops the mould
and hat is correctly under the presser or ironing plate (64), and when against the
other stops the table (d) is in the position for removing and replacing the hat to be
operated upon.
The table (d) is made with an oval hole in its centre, and has a cylindrical part
(d) and flange (d³). Above the oval space the mould or shaper (e) for the brim of
the hat is placed, and it is held in position by Vs on each side that fit angular
projections or screw heads d' in the table. This shaper (e) has a part e¹ descending
from it so that between the shaper e and the table parts d³ and d³ there is a box or
cavity formed in which a gas burner is arranged. Any suitable burner may be
used, but I find the best to be a ring tube f secured in the table.
This ring burner extends round the cavity, and there is a pipe f¹ from it into
the end of which the end of a jet pipe f³ for gas is inserted, and on each side of the
larger pipe fi a hole is formed to admit air to the entering jet of gas, which thus
carries mixed with it the required air for combustion which passes out at numerous
slits cut in the upper side of the ring burner. (See Fig. 3).
The combustion of the mixed gas and air heats the mould or shaper (e), and the
products of combustion pass off from holes (e²) and spaces in the side of the shaper
or mould.
The products of combustion and heat are prevented from passing towards the
centre of the mould; or to the body of the hat when placed in it, by the part e¹.
But one of the most important features of my Invention is to prevent the heat
required upon the brim part from getting to the body part of the hat, and this I
accomplish by a hollow ring or belt g formed by preference of thin brass or copper
which is secured within the upper part e¹ of the mould, to leave an air space and
only to touch small screws that pass through the side of the part e¹ near its lower
edge, and screw into projections, brazed or otherwise secured to the hollow belt g.
The upper edge of this hollow belt is chamfered off to a thin edge, so that the
upper face of the mould or shaper e can be brought as near as possible to the inner
surface of the hollow belt g.
The interior of the hollow belt is divided by the pipes g' and g² which convey
the water or other cooling fluid to and from the belt.
The cold water enters by one pipe (g¹) passes up and escapes into the hollow
belt g at its upper edge, and fills and passes from it near the upper edge down the
outlet pipe (g) for the partly heated water.
Thus arranged the hollow belt (g) remains full of water, even should the con-
tinuous supply of water cease.
The gas
is brought to the machine by an india rubber tube which is arranged to
descend towards the floor and then ascend to the pipe.
The water is brought to and taken away by india rubber tubes arranged same
as the gas tube, the tubes both for gas and water having sufficient slack tube to
permit of the free movement of the table to and fro. The hat to be "ironed" has
been previously "curled," and the thin metal ring used in that process is left upon
the hat when it is placed in the above described machine to be "ironed."
For hats having the crown part larger than the part which fits the head the
table (d), mould (e), gas burner (f), and the water belt g are made in two halves,
so that by moving the two halves of the table apart the two halves of the mould,
burner, and water belt will be separated to allow the hat to be placed and removed
when the two halves of the table are brought together, thus making the mould
complete.
In such case the mould, burner, and water belt are arranged accordingly, and the
gas is conveyed to each half of the burner separately, and the water to the halves
of the hollow belt, or the gas and water may be conveyed as when the burner and
belt are entire, and the mixed gas and air is or may be transmitted from one half
to the other by india rubber tubes having a loop of slack sufficient to admit of the
required separation of the two halves of the burner, or by other suitable means;
and the water.may be conveyed from one half of the water belt to the other in the

page_text: same manner as the gas and air is conveyed from one half burner to the other half.
This ironing machine is or may be used for "setting" or giving the finished shape to
hat brims after they have been " curled," "ironed," "trimmed," and "bound" by
using suitable moulds or shapers for the purpose.
The water belt g, or any desired form or section of it, is or may be used according
to my Invention apart from the "ironing" machine for keeping cool parts of hats
not to be heated when other parts of the hat are to be heated or operated upon by
heated tools or surfaces, and any skilled mechanic will be readily able to modify
the form of the hollow partition, and adapt it to the desired purpose of protecting
against heat when operating upon hats from the example herein before given.
Fig. 4 is a front elevation, Fig. 5 a sectional view of the pressing cylinder
detached, Fig. a plan view of the same, and Fig. 7 a sectional view of the table
and shaper; these Figures illustrating the mode of carrying out the second part of
my Invention..
:
The general arrangement of the machine is similar to the ironing machine
herein before described and illustrated by Figs. 1, 2, and 3 so far as the framing a
and the rails c for the sliding table d and the screw b for actuating the presser, and
these arrangements will be readily understood from the Drawings and previons
description without further explanation. The cylinder h is constructed with an
india rubber diaphragm h¹, same as those used in curling machines in common use,
and the cylinder is arranged to move up and down in guides in like manner, but
in the ordinary machine the cylinder is brought down by band upon the hat brim
and secured, and then water under pressure is admitted into the cylinder; but by
my improvements the cylinder is brought down by a screw (b) or other suitable
means and forced against the brim of the hat, the water in the cylinder being thus
compressed until its pressure acts upon the india rubber diaphragm to cause it to press
and curl the brim upon the shaper which is carried on the sliding table d below.
There is a tap and funnel h², or other means to charge the cylinder h with the
required quantity of water which remains in the cylinder.
'
The shaper or mould on the table d is the same as that used in the ordinary
hydraulic curling machine, but the table d can slide in and out to allow the hat
to be conveniently placed and removed from the mould, and there are stops against
which the table is pushed to bring the hat in the correct position under the
cylinder.
The cylinder (h) may be fixed or adjustable in position, and the rails c carrying
the table d may be mounted upon an upright slide or slides, and this slide may be
lifted and lowered by a screw, lever, and cranks or excentrics, or other suitable
means, so that the hat carried on the mould on the table may be lifted and
forced against the india rubber diaphragm.
For some forms of hat the mould will have to be formed in two halves, as is
well understood, to allow the hat to be inserted and withdrawn.
In using my improved curling machine (which dispenses with hydraulic power)
the mode of proceeding is the same as in the bydraulic machine, with the exceptions
above named.
I have now particularly described the nature of my Invention, and the mode of
carrying the same into effect, and claim as my Invention,--
Firstly. The combination and arrangement of mechanism berein before described
for ironing and setting or shaping the brims of hats, substantially as bereinbefore
described and illustrated by the Drawings.
Secondly. The arrangement of the hollow metal ring or belt, in which water or
other cooling fluid is made to circulate, for protecting those parts of the hat from the
beat which is to act upon the brim in ironing or setting machines, substantially as
herein before described and illustrated by the Drawings.
Thirdly. The system or mode of protecting parts of hats from heat, or from heated
tools or surfaces which are used to heat or operate upon other parts of the hat,
substantially as herein before described.

page_text: Fourthly. The combination and arrangement of mechanism for curling or setting
and shaping hat brims, substantially as hereinbefore described and illustrated by
Figs. 4 to 7 inclusive of the Drawings.
Fifthly. The system or mode of giving motion to a diaphragm cylinder (h) with
liquid in it, or to the table carrying the mould by screw levers or other mechanical
means so as to cause the diaphragm to press upon the brim of the hat to be
curled," set, or shaped, substantially as hereinbefore described and illustrated by
the Drawings.
In witness whereof, I, the said John Turner, have hereunto set my hand
and seal, this Ninth day of March, in the year of our Lord One thousand
eight hundred and eighty.
JOHN TURNER. (L.S.)