IMPROVEMENTS IN WEAVING AND IN APPARA- TUS THEREFOR.
Year: 1877

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to John Overend Evans, of Manchester, in the County of
Lancaster, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN WEAVING AND IN APPARA-
TUS THEREFOR.'
13
Sealed the 19th June 1877, and dated the 5th April 1877.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said John Overend Evans at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 5th April 1877.
JOHN OVEREND EVANS, of Manchester, in the County of Lancaster. "IM-
PROVEMENTS IN WEAVING AND IN APPARATUS THEREFOR.”
"
My Invention relates to a particular kind of weaving by means of the jacquard
loom, the cloth having two or three different effects or styles of weaving, namely,
leno or cross weaving, with plain or solid weaving, or with brocade or float weaving,
or all three styles together, at will, according to the pattern or effect desired to be
produced.
I divide the hooks of the jacquard machine into two sets, each set working its
own harness.
The front set of hooks and front harness are for leno or cross
weaving, and are provided with one or more "doup or slip healds." The back set
of hooks and their harness are for plain or floated cloth, as in ordinary jacquard
weaving. The whole of the warp is drawn through the ordinary harness, one end to
each mail. Through the leno harness is drawn only that portion of the warp re-
quired for crossing or lenoeing, the remainder of the warp passing freely between
the threads of the front mounting.
In order to give the necessary "slack" or play to the leno ends when lenoeing,
and restore the normal tension when they are working plain or floated work, I
pass them behind the ordinary harness through mails which are connected above
by means of harness threads (grouped as in the front or leno harness) with weighted
levers, springs, or weights over pulleys (or other means of producing the same
effect), corresponding in number with the hooks of the leno harness. These
weighted levers are connected with the rear ends of an equal number of "levers of

page_text: the first kind" (or other means of transmitting a pull) ranged towards the bottom
of the loom under the warp. These levers at their other ends are connected by
means of threads of the leno harness or otherwise with the leno work of the
jacquard machine.
When the leno ends of the warp are not actually required for leno, the weighted
levers acting against a rod or rods draw the leno ends up at an angle. When any
of the ends of the leno warp are required to cross (or work leno) the necessary
hooks of the leno mounting are raised or pulled up. This pull is communicated
below to the ends of the corresponding levers at the bottom of the loom, which are
thereby raised. The other or opposite end of the levers being consequently
depressed communicate downward to the corresponding weighted levers (springs or
weights over pulleys). These as they yield release their respective leno ends of the
warp, the angle at which they were held disappears, and the warp ends receive the
necessary "slack." By this means I am enabled to make the leno harness self-
acting, that is to say, to cause it to effect its own vibrating or slacking, and this
slacking being effected by the same hooks of the machine which works the leno,
the same holes in the cards serve for the double purpose, saving time and expense
in designing.and rendering harmless any mistakes in perforating the cards.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said John Overend Evans in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 5th
October 1877.
JOHN OVEREND EVANS, of Manchester, in the County of Lancaster.
PROVEMENTS IN WEAVING AND IN APPARATUS THEREFOR.'
"IM-
My Invention relates to a particular kind of weaving by means of the jacquard
loom, the cloth having two or three different effects or styles of weaving, namely
leno or
cross weaving, with plain or solid weaving, or with brocade or float
weaving, or all three styles together, at will, according to the pattern or effect
desired to be produced.
Such being the nature and object of my said Invention, I will now proceed to
describe more in detail the manner in which the same is to be or may be performed
or carried into practical effect; and in order that the saine may be clearly under-
stood, I have annexed hereunto a Drawing illustrative thereof, and have marked
the same with letters of reference corresponding with those in the following
explanation thereof.
The annexed Drawing represents a vertical section of so much of a jacquard
power loom as is necessary to illustrate my Invention.
a, a, is the framing of the loom; b, b, is the cloth beam; c, c, the warp_beam;
and d, d, the breast beam; e, e, the back carrier; ff, the lathe; g,g, the reed.
I divide the hooks of the jacquard machine into two sets, each set working its
own harness. The front set of hooks h, h', and front harness i, i, are for leno or
cross weaving, and are provided with one or more doup or slip healds, which are
released every pick of the loom. The back set of hooks Z and their harness l¹are
for plain or floated cloth as in ordinary jacquard weaving. The whole of the warp
is drawn through the ordinary harness ¹, one end to each mail. Through the leno
harness is drawn only that portion of the warp required for crossing or lenoeing,
the remainder of the warp passing freely between the threads of the front
mounting.
In order to give the necessary slack or play to the leno ends when lenoeing, and
to restore the normal tension when they are working plain or floated cloth, I pass
them at the back of the ordinary harness, through mails which are connected above

page_text: by means of harness threads j, j, (grouped as in the front or leno harness) with
weighted levers m, n, corresponding in number with the hooks of the leno harness.
For the weighted levers may be substituted springs or weights over pulleys or
other means of producing the same effect. These weighted levers m, n, are con-
nected by strings o, o, with the near ends of an equal number of treadles or levers
of the first kind p, p¹, (or other means of transmitting a pull ranged for conveni-
ence towards the bottom of the loom under the warp. The treadles or levers p, p¹,
are connected at their other ends with the leno hooks h, h, of the jacquard
machine.
When the leno ends of the warp are not actually required for leno, the weighted
levers m, n, draw the leno ends up at an angle until the weighted ends of the levers
reach the cross bar or stop a, the said ends bearing against a fixed transverse rod
(or rods) ?, which is (or are) so mounted as to be free to revolve. When any of the
ends of the leno warp are required to cross (or work leno) the necessary hooks h, h',
of the leno mounting are raised or pulled up. This pull is communicated below to
tho ends of the corresponding treadlos or lovers p, pl, at the bottom of the loom
which are thereby raised. The other or opposite ends of the levers being conse-
quently depressed communicate a downward pull to the corresponding weighted
levers m or n. These as they yield release their respective leno ends of the warp,
the angle at which they were held disappears and the warp ends receive the
necessary slack. In the Drawing the hook of the leno set is represented as
raised to work leno, the end of its corresponding lever p to which it is attached is
therefore also raised, and the opposite end is depressed. The depressed end being
in its turn attached to the corresponding weighted lever m lowers it light end,
overcoming and raising the counterpoise. The weighted levor m as it yields
releases its respectivo leno ends of the warp, the angle at which they were held
disappears, and they receive the necessary slack. The hook ' of the leno set is
represented as not raised or required for leno. Its corresponding weighted lever n
draws its respective leno ends up at an angle and maintains the normal tension.
Each lono hook of the jacquard machine has its own weighted lever to which it
is attached (by cords and levers, as shown in the diagram, or by other intermediates)
and which it operates; and the same warp ends which are acted upon by this hook
are also acted upon by its corresponding weighted lever, the hook of the jacquard
machine and the weighted lever reciprocating with each other.
In the Drawing the connection of the leno hooks of the jacquard machine and
the weighted levers with the levers p,p', is shown as effected by separate threads
or cords o, o, distinct from the harness, but it is obvious that harness threads may
be employed for this purpose.
By the means of the above described I am enabled to make the leno harness (or
mounting) self-acting, that is to say, to make each leno hook do its own vibrating
or slacking for its own warp ends; and since this slacking is effected by the same
hooks of the machine which work the leno, the compass of the jacquard machine is
thereby economised, and the same holes in the cards serve for the double purpose,
thus saving time and expense in designing and rendering harmless any mistakes in
perforating the cards that might otherwise occur.
Having now described the nature and object of my said Invention, together with
the manner in which the same is to be or may be performed or carried into practical
effect, I wish it to be understood that I do not claim as my present Invention the
use of leno harness and doup healds in combination with ordinary jacquard harness.
What I do claim is the method herein set forth (as applied to figured leno weaving
by means of the jacquard machine) of rendering the leno harness or mounting self-
acting as regards slacking or vibrating, by so arranging, that the same hooks of the
jacquard machine that work the leno shall individually, at the same time, and by
the same movement give the necessary slack or play to the threads of the warp
which they control.
I wish it to be understood however that I do not confine myself to the one

page_text: practicable and convenient mode, herein fully described, of carrying the same into
effect.
In witness whereof, I, the said John Overend Evans, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Third day of October, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and seventy-seven.
J. O. EVANS. (L.S.)