Improvements in Machines for Curling, Pressing, and Trimming the Brims of Hats.
Year: 1890

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Machines for Curling, Pressing, and Trimming the
Brims of Hats.
I, EVAN MORRIS of 253 Levant Street, in the City of Philadelphia, State of
Pennsylvania, United States of America, Hat Manufacturer, do hereby declare the
nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
One object of this invention is to so construct a hat brim ironing or curling
machine that the brims will be permanently set by the operation of the machine, no
supplemental ironing, heating or shaping of the brim by hand being necessary, a
further object being to provide simple and efficient means for trimming the brim after
it is curled, ironed and set, and for operating the various parts of the machine.
These objects are attained in the manner hereinafter set forth, reference being had
to the accompanying drawings, in which-
Fig. 1, is a longitudinal section on the line 1-2, Fig. 3, of a hat brim ironing or
curling machine constructed in accordance with the invention; the parts being in
position for curling and ironing the brim ;
Fig. 2, is a like view showing the trimming devices in position;
Fig. 3, is a transverse section on the line 3-4 Fig. 1;
Fig. 4, is a sectional plan view on the line 5-6 Fig. 1
i
Fig. 5 represents in perspective the ends of two of the presser blocks of the
machine; and
Fig. 6, is a perspective view of part of the trimming device, detached from the
machine.
It may be stated in the outset that the improved machine differs in its operation
from others heretofore devised, in that it does not rely upon the imparting of heavy
pressure to the brim by means of cold dies to effect the curling or shaping of the
brim, and the fixing or setting of the same in shape; the curling and setting of the
brim, in the improved machine, being effected by shrinking the brim into the proper
shape by the application of heat and moisture thereto and lightly pressing it over the
forming dies or curls, the brim, after being properly shrunk into form over these dies
or curls, being then confined until it has become cool.
By this means the shape or form of the curled portion of the brim is permanently
fixed or set, whereas brims shaped under pressure by cold dies are likely to lose their
shape in a short time, supplementary treatment and manipulation by hand being
necessary, in order to insure the retention by the curls of the shape which has been
given to them in the machine.
Having thus set forth the general features of the invention, the special construction
of the machine will be described.
A, is the base plate of the machine, mounted on suitable legs a, and secured to this
base plate are two dove-tailed guides b, b, extending transversely across the machine.
To these guides are adapted the bases of opposite sliding frames B, B, which carry
the curling or ironing blocks C C, described hereafter, each of the frames B, having
a rack C and the two racks being arranged side by side but a short distance apart.
Meshing with these racks are two pinions d, d', carried by longitudinal shafts D, D',
adapted to suitable bearings e, e, on the base plate A, of the machine, one of these
shafts-tbe shaft D, in the present instance-being provided with a handle D³. The
pinions d, d', not only mesh with the racks c, c, but also with each other, as will be
noticed on referring to Figs. 1 and 4, the pinions being wider than their racks so as
to overlap and engage with each other, hence, when the shaft D, is turned, the
pinion d, of the same not only moves its rack, but also rotates the pinion d',
shaft D', and hence moves the other rack in the opposite direction so that both side
frames B, B, are moved simultaneously towards or from each other.
Price 8d 1
and

page_text: E, is a central plate carrying the lower shaping die F, and the hat block G, said
plate having on the underside, studs f, adapted to sockets g, on the base plate A, and
supported upon suitable springs therein, the lower ends of the studs being secured to
a frame M, which can be depressed by means of a lever M.
At the rear of the plate A, are two brackets I, I, to which is hung an arm J, pre-
ferably yoked, as shown, and provided with a suitable handle j, and pivoted at i, to
said arm J, is a ring K, which conforms to the outline of the hat brim, and follows
the dip of the same at front and rear.
The ironing or curling blocks C, C, are hollow, as shown, and may be heated by
gas jets fed from pipes m, m, or the heating may be effected in any other manner
capable of maintaining the blocks at a high temperature, for instance, the blocks may
be in the form of closed boxes heated by steam, or the hollow blocks may be heated
by means of hot irons laid in the same.
The blocks C, bave at each end projecting plates h, (Fig. 5.) which overlap each
other, and serve to bend the brim over the ends of the curls H, as the blocks are
moved towards each other, the projections being sufficiently heated, by reason of their
connection with the blocks.
The operation of the machine is as follows:-
The hat having had its brim first heated in any of the usual ways, so as to soften it,
is placed, as shown by the outline in the drawings, upon the lower shaping die F,
while the blocks C, C, are moved apart from each other, and the upper dies or curls H,
are then placed upon the brim, so as to depress it onto the shaping die F, the
preliminary softening of the brim permitting this to be readily done. The edges of
the brim are then moistened, and the heated ironing or curling blocks C, are moved
towards each other, so as to bend the projecting edge of the brim inward over the
curls, the combined effect of the heat and moisture being to effect the shrinking of
the material of which the curl of the brim is composed.
If necessary in order to effect the thorough shrinking of the curl of the brim, the
moistening and heating may be repeated as many times as desired, the blocks (,
being withdrawn to permit access to the brim, and being again moved inwards over
the same after the exposed portion has been properly moistened.
After the proper curling of the brim has been effected, the blocks C, are withdrawn,
and the ring K, lowered onto the brim, so as to retain the curl in proper shape while
the brim is cooling, the ring at the same time expediting the cooling of the brim,
owing to the fact that its temperature is much lower than that of said brim.
While the brim is being cooled in one machine, the shaping and curling of a brim
may be effected on another machine, so that no time is lost, one workman attending to
both machines.
After the curling, ironing and setting of the brim has been effected, all that remains
to be done is to trim off the curled edges of the brim to the proper size and shape,
and this is effected without disturbing the hat, by means of a trimming device which
is constructed as follows:
To a post or standard N, at one side of the base plate or table A, adapted a
shaft n, having at the upper end an arm P, the free end of which forms a bearing for
a shaft s, which is provided with a suitable operating handle s¹, and carries at its lower
end a frame S, in which are bearings for spindles t. Depending from the outer ends
of these spindles is a frame T, in which is free to move vertically a spindle w, having
at the lower end a head k, carrying the cutting knife or blade a, the spindle being
prevented from turning in the frame T, by means of a guide rod which is adapted
to a suitable projecting bearing vl, on said frame.
v,
Secured to the underside of the arm P, at the outer end of the same, is a
template W, the contour of which is similar to that of the desired contour for the
inner edge of the curled brim of the hat, and an antifriction roller y, carried by the
frame T, is caused to bear constantly against the periphery of this template by
the action of springs t', upon the spindles t, carrying the frame T.
A spring w¹, acts upon the knife-carrying spindle w and tends to depress the same
and its knife.

page_text: During the operation of curling, ironing and setting the brim of the hat, the arm P,
carrying the trimming devices has been thrown around to one side so as to be out of
the way, as shown in Fig. 1, the arm being held in this position by the engagement
with any suitable stop, of a spring catch p, carried by an arm p¹, on the lower end of
the shaft n.
After the curling, ironing and setting of the curl has been completed, however, the
side boxes C, are separated, and the arm P, swung around in the position shown in
Fig. 2, and retained in this position by the engagement of the spring catch p, with a
stud u.
The knifex,
is then adjusted so as to act upon the inner portion of the curl of the
brim, and the frame S, is rotated by means of the shaft s, and handle s¹, so as to carry
the frame T, and its knife around the hat, the knife being pressed down so as
to cut by means of the spring w¹, and the frame T, being compelled to take the
proper course for cutting the brim by reason of its being under control of the
template W.
It will be observed that the shaping and curling of the brim, the ironing of the curls,
and the trimming of the latter, are effected without removing the hat from the block
or band G, or without disturbing the position of the hat on this block or band, so that
the operations are very materially facilitated.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is -
1. The mode described of curling hat brims, said mode consisting in applying the
hat to the hat block or band, and then, without removing the hat from said block or
band, curling the brim of the same, then moistening said brim, and then subjecting it
to the action of heated sliding blocks whereby the pressing of the curls is effected,
substantially as specified.
'
2. The mode herein described of curling the brims of hats, said mode consisting in
applying the hat to the hat block or band, and then, without removing the hat from
said block or band, first curling the brim, then moistening the same, then subjecting if
to the action of heated sliding blocks, whereby it is pressed, and then subjecting the
curled and pressed brim to the action of a cool presser plate, whereby the brim is
cooled and set, substantially as specified.
3. The mode herein described of finishing the brims of hats, said mode consisting
in applying the hat to the hat block or band, and then, without removing the hat from
said block or band, first, curling the brim, second, moistening the brim and subjecting
it to the action of the heated sliding blocks to iron or press the curls; third, sub-
jecting the brim to the action of a cold presser plate, whereby it is set, and, fourth,
trimming the brim by means of a knife traversed around the hat, substantially.
specified.
4. The combination, in a hat brim ironing or curling machine of the shaping dies,
the curls, and laterally sliding heated blocks for bending the brim over said curls,
substantially as specified.
5. The combination, in a hat brim curling or ironing machine, of the shaping dies,
the curls, the heated blocks for bending the brim over said curls, and a cooling
ring conforming to the shape of the brim, and adapted to bear upon the curled
portion of said brim, on the removal of the curling blocks, all substantially as
specified.
6. The combination, in a hat brim curling machine, of the shafts D, D', having
wide pinions d, d¹, meshing with each other, the side blocks having racks c, c, one
engaging with one pinion, and the other engaging with the other pinion, and
mechanism for rotating one of said shafts, substantially as described.
7. The combination, in a hat brim curling or ironing machine, of the shaping die,
the curls, the side blocks, and a pivoted arm J, carrying a cooling ring K, in such
a position that it can be depressed to rest upon the curled brim of the hat, all
substantially as specified.

page_text: 8. The combination in a hat brim curling machine, of the hat block or band,
shaping dies, the curls and the curling blocks, with a knife-carrier mounted in respect
to the hat block or band as described, whereby the knife can be passed around the hat
after the pressing of the curls, substantially as specified.
9. The combination of the hat block or band, the shaping dies, the curls and the
curling blocks, with a knife-carrier mounted so as to be parsed around the hat, and a
template upon which said knife carrier has a bearing during its movement around the
hat, substantially as specified.
10. The combination of the ten plate, the pivoted frame having a bearing on said
template, springs for holding the same in position against the template, a knife holder
vertically movable in the carrier, and a spring acting on said holder to depress the
same, substantially as specified.
Dated this 16th day of September 1890.
2
DAY, DAVIES & HUNT,
321, High Holborn, London, W.C., Agents for the Applicant.