CERTAIN IM- PROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BUTTONS AND OTHER DRESS FASTENINGS, AND IN THE MACHINERY AND APPARATUS TO BE USED THEREIN
Year: 1852

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, 1, GEORGE
Twisa, of Birmingham, in the County of Warwick, Button Manufacturer,
send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date at Westminster,
the Twenty-sixth day of August, in the sixteenth year of Her said
Majesty's reign, did give and grant unto me, the said George Twigg, my
exors, admors, and assigns, Her especial license, full power, sole privilege and
authority, that I, the said George Twigg, my exors, admňors, and assigns, and
such others as I, the said George Twigg, my exors, adññors, and assigns,
should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at.
all times thereafter during the term of years therein mentioned, should and
lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within that part of the United
Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland called England, the Dominion of
Wales, and Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, my Invention of "CERTAIN IM-
PROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BUTTONS AND OTHER DRESS FASTENINGS, AND IN
THE MACHINERY AND APPARATUS TO BE USED THEREIN ;" in which said Letters
Patent there is contained a proviso that I, the said George Twigg, shall
particularly describe and ascertain the nature of my said Invention, and in
what manner the same is to be performed, by an instrument in writing under
my hand and seal, to be enrolled in Her said Majesty's High Court of
Chancery within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of

page_text: plan of a button with a different centre, and consisting of a flat circular plate
of metal (d¹), or other material, with holes drilled or stamped through it.
This centre fits into a recess in the shell (G), and rests on a flange in the
bottom of the button. It is then grooved by suitable tools into the position
shewn at (d, d), thus firmly holding the centre (d'). The cross piece (C) in
the button (F, F) is also secured in the same manner. (Figure 8) shews
views of an improved stud button. (H,H) are a cross section and plan of
the upper shell; (I, I), cross section and plan of the lower shell. This latter
has a hole punched through it to admit the shank of the stud. (e, e) repre-
sents the shank made from a short piece of wire, the head being attached in
any suitable way either by stamping or otherwise. It is then passed through
the hole in the lower shell, and the upper one put on, and bent over the lower
one. (J, J) are a section and plan shewing this complete.
It is then
flattened, as seen at (K), and a distance washer (f, f) slid on to the shank
(e, e), and the cloth or other fabric to which the button is to be attached is
then passed on to the shank; another washer (g, 9) is put on, and the whole
rivetted together, as shewn at (K). (L, L) are a section and plan of
another description of stud button similar to the last described, but is a single
shell button instead of double, the shank (e', e¹) being brazed on to the shell.
It is attached in the same manner as that before described. (M) is a section
of another single shell stud button. A recess is formed in the shell to admit the
head of the shank (e) which fits into the recess. The shank is shouldered
down smaller at the bottom, forming a collar for the fabric, cloth, or other
material (,) to butt against, a washer being put on the small end of the
shank; the whole is then rivetted together. (Figure 5) shews views of
another button, of which (P, P) are the section and plan. A spherical or.
other shaped ball' of wood or other suitable material has a hole bored through
its centre, countersunk at one end to allow space for a stud fixed in the
shank (7). The body or ball of the button is netted over with silk, mohair,
or other fibrous covering, and the shank (P), with the stud of glass or any
ornamental material (m) fixed in the head of the shank, is passed through
the button, the stud projecting slightly on the face of the button. After the
shank has been thus inserted, a washer is put on the tail end of the shank, and
the shank opened, as seen at (1). This last form of button may also be made
of two stamped metal shells, the ono overlapping the other, and having holes
punched through them to admit the shank, these shells being then netted
over with a fibrous material. The other portions of the manufacture are
identical.
The second part of my Invention consists in a method of smoothing the

page_text: holes in buttons, all at one and the same time, by means of drills. (Figure 4)
shews views of a centre of a button, and also drills for countersinking
or forming a ring round the holes. (N, N) are a section and plan of a
(0, 0) shew the tools or drills for
four-holed button drilled in this manner.
performing the same. These drills are fixed horizontally, and are all caused
to revolve at the same time. The shanks (J, J) of the drills fit the holes
already punched in the button blank, which serves as guides for the drills.
These are then put in motion, and the holes are drilled or countersunk, as
may be desired, all the four drills working simultaneously in the four holes.
The button then presents the appearance shewn at (N, N).
I now proceed to describe the third part of my Invention, consisting of
improvements in the manufacture of clasps for articles of wearing apparel.
(Figure 6, Sheet A) shews elevations and longitudinal section of a clasp, to be
commonly used for a garter clasp and such like purposes. The wings being
formed in any ordinary manner, two slots (n, n,) are cut in the wing (n'),
and a nib or tongue is formed in the corresponding wing, the width of the
nib at the end corresponding with the length of the slot, but smaller in the
head or neck (p), to admit of its being turned in the slot (n, n). In fastening
the clasp, the wing (0) is turned at right angles with the corresponding
wing (2), as seen at (R). The nib is then inserted into the slot, and turned
into the position shewn at (Q), when it is prevented from working out by
the width of the nib. The two slots (n, n) will admit of the clasp being
tightened or loosened at pleasure. (Figure 7) shews views of another form
of clasp, the same in principle as that last described, but instead of the nib
being formed on the wing, a stud (v) is rivetted on, as shewn at (S, S).
(u, v) represents the stud, and (U) one wing of the clasp, the stud (v) being
rivetted into the hole in the wing. (V, V) are a longitudinal section and
plan of the other wing, having the slot (t) of sufficient length to admit the
stud, when the wing is turned at right angles. (T, T) shew the stud put
together, the operation being the same as in that last described. (W, W)
are a section and plan of another modification of these clasps, having, instead
of the slot shewn at (v), in view (S), Figure 7, which is for the purpose of
attaching the clasp to the material, a round piece of wire (w), secured by the
arms (X, X), turned over the wire into the form shewn at (y). The clasp
(Q, Q, Figure 6,) may also be made in the same manner.
This arrangement
prevents the clasp from cutting the material to which it is attached.
I now proceed to describe the fourth part of my Invention, consisting in
machinery or apparatus to be employed in milling or rounding the edge of
buttons, and grooving in the centres.

page_text: Figure 2, ditto,
a plan,
(Figure 3, Sheet C) an elevation on the lines (Z, Z),
Figure 4, ditto, an end elevation, of a machine for edging blanks and grooving
in the centres. (A) is the framework of the machine. (B) a rack sliding
in the groove (C) in the top plate of the frame. The two wheels (D, D¹)
are geared into the said rack, as seen at (Figure 3, Sheet C), and are hung
on the shafts (E), mounted on the bearings (F), screwed to the top plate.
Motion is given to the shafts (E) by a driving band on the pulley (H). On
the same shafts are fixed the wheels (J, J) gearing into each other (see
Figure 1, Sheet B). These wheels give a contrary direction to the shafts
in revolving. Steeled plates (I, I') are screwed to the sides of the rack (B),
and similar plates (K, K') are screwed to the top plate (G), the distance
being regulated according to the size of the button to be edged or grooved.
These plates are grooved to round the edge and support the button whilst
being operated on (see L, Figure 4, Sheet B). The circular plates (M),
fixed on the shafts (E), have each a snug (N) formed-on the plate. These
snugs act on upright studs or arms (0) attached to the levers (P), and are
for the purpose of working the slides (9) that feed the machine with blanks.
(W, Figure 1, Sheet B) are hoppers fixed into the boxes (R), and containing
the blanks. When the machine is in use, the wheel (D'), geared into the
rack (B, Figure 3, Sheet C), revolves in the direction shewn by the arrow,
moving the rack into the position shewn by the dotted lines (U, U),
Figure 2, Sheet B, by which time the wheel (D¹) has worked itself
out of gear, and the snugs (N) on the circular plate (M), working the
studs (O), give motion to the levers (P). moving the slides (7), and com-
pressing the springs (S). The levers (P) work upon the centres (V), and
the ends (a) of the levers act on the studs (6), fixed to the slides or feeders
(g), which slides work in the boxes (R), secured to the top plate, and have
slots (c) in the top to admit of the working of the studs, the ends (d) of the
slides being shouldered down just the thickness of the blanks. The snugs
(N) pass the upright arms (O), and liberate the levers (P), when the springs
(S) push forward the slides (9), and pass a blank against the grooved sides
of the steeled plates, the wheels (D and D¹) being so geared that on the
blank being passed the wheel (D), which revolves in the opposite direction
to that marked (D¹), returns the rack to its original position, rolling the
button (f) between the grooves in the plates (1', K'), Figure 2, Sheet B,)
until it has passed the end of the stationary plate (K¹), when it drops through
the aperture (T). The rack is then in the position to receive the blanks
!

page_text: from the opposite end of the machine, when the operation just described is
renewed.
Having thus described the nature of my said Invention, and the manner
in which the same is to be performed, I wish it to be understood that I
do not confine myself to these precise details, nor do I claim the forms of
clasps herein named, but only my improved modes of manufacturing the same;
but what I claim as my Invention is,―
. Firstly, the various improvements in buttons described and shown in the
respective Drawings in Sheet A.
Secondly, the improvements described in smoothing simultaneously the holes
in buttons by means of drills.
Thirdly, the improvements in the manufacture of clasps described and
shewn in Sheet A.
Fourthly, the arrangement and combination of the mechanism described
and shewn in Drawings (Sheets B and C), for the purpose of milling or
rounding the edges and grooving in the centres of buttons.
In witness whereof, I, the said George Twigg, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Nineteenth day of February, One thousand eight
hundred and fifty-three