Improvements in the Manufacture of Figured. Cloth.
Year: 1889

page_text: Date of Application, 12th Dec., 1889
Complete Specification Left, 11th Sept., 1890-Accepted, 12th Dec., 1890
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION
Improvements in the Manufacture of Figured. Cloth.
We, THOMAS PEARSON of the firm of Thomas Pearson and Son of Victoria Mills,
Manufacturers, and JOHN TAYLOR of 85 Davenport Street, Manager, both of Bolton
in the County of Lancaster, do hereby declare the nature of our said invention to
be as follows :-
This invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of figured cloth and
consists in producing a raised figure formed by a fine face warp and a coarse weft or
roving for the figure on the face side of the cloth and the ground on the back side of
the cloth. The ground work on the face side of the cloth is formed by a plain or
fancy dent rib, and also a plain or fancy dent rib forming the figure on the back side
of the faced figure of the cloth, such dent rib being formed by an unusually thick
yarn of one, two, three, or more folds, or a number of ends running together as an
equivalent for back warp or commonly called stitching yarn.
In manufacturing this improved cloth two yarn beams are employed, one for fine
yarn with twice as many fine yarn ends as the back or stitching yarn on the other
beain, or a yarn beam with an equal number of fine yarn ends to the back or stitching
yarn. In the former case three ends are employed in one dent, and in the latter
two ends are employed in one dent. The other yarn beam contains the back or
stitching yarn as stated above.
.
When weaving one modification of this cloth wherein two fine ends of face yarn to
one of thick or back stitching yarn are employed, we use one or more ordinary
Jacquard machines to govern the back or stitching warp threads; the harness being
drawn through two comber boards, viz., back-board B¹ and back-board B2, and knotted
for pressing or forming sheds. We also use four or five healds to govern the fine
warp threads. When four healds are employed there is an equal number of fine warp
threads through each heald, When five healds are employed the first or No. 1 and
the second or No. 1* have one-eighth of the fine warp threads; the third or No. 2,
fourth or No. 3, and fifth or No. 4 have one-fourth of the fine warp threads through
each heald. We can use all the fine warp threads to form a face calico and dent rib,
or can use only one half of the fine warp threads in the face calico. When weaving
this cloth with all the fine yarn in face calico we lift the fourth heal or No. 3
with No. and 1 healds when forming face figure, and lift the fifth or No. 4 heald
with No. 2 heald when formning face figure.
When weaving with half the fine yarn in face calico we lift the fourth or
No. 3 heald with No. 1 and 1 healds when forming the dent rib; we also lift the
fifth or No. 4 heald with the third or No. 2 heald when forming the dent rib.
.
In another modification we employ two or more ordinary Jacquard machines and
no healds; one machine or machines to govern the back or stitching warp threads, the
harness being drawn through two comber boards and knotted for pressing or forming
sheds. The other machine or machines governs the fine or face warp threads and is.
tied up to twice the number of lingoes as the back warp threads are. The fine or face
warp threads are drawn through four or five comber boards, and are knotted for
pressing or forming the sheds. If four comber boards are employed an equal number
of the fine warp threads pass through each. If five comber boards are employed the
first or No. 1 and the second or No. 1* have one-eighth of the fine warp threads
passing through each; the third or No. 2, fourth or No. 3, and fifth or No. 4 having
one-fourth of the fine warp threads passing through each, or we tie the mounting
governing the fine warp threads to the same number of lingoes as the back warp
threads are; the first or No. 1 and second or No. 1* comber boards having one-eighth

page_text: of the fine warp threads each; the third or No. 2 comber board having one-fourth of
the fine warp threads; we also use two healds No. 3 and 4 having one-fourth of the
fine warp threads through each, and do use either all the fine warp threads to form the
face calico, dent rib, and ground, or we use only one half of the fine warp threads
in face calico.
When weaving this cloth with all the fine yarn in face calico we lift the fourth
or No. 3 board with No. 1 and 1* boards when forming face figure; or with the fifth
or No. 4 board the third or No. 2 board when forming face figure. When weaving
with half the fine yarn in face calico we lift the fourth or No. 3 board with No. 1
and 1 boards when forming the dent rib; or the fifth or No. 4 board with the
No. 2 board when forming the dent rib. When weaving with equal face mounting to
the back warp mounting and with two healds, No. 3 and 4, with all the fine yarn in
face calico we lift the heald No. 3 with No. 1 and 1* boards when forming face
figure, or the No. 4 heald with No. 2 board. When weaving the latter with half the
fine yarn in face calico we lift heald No. 3 with No. 1 and 1* boards to form the dent
rib, and the No. 4 heald with No. 2 board when forming the dent rib.
In another modification of this cloth we employ what is usually known as a twin
Jacquard machine or machines; the twin portion taking the place of the second
machine or machines, the mails acting as No. 1, 1*, and 2 comber boards or healds,
and in other respects is governed as in the second modification named above. The
twin machine only requires half the number of cards when weaving a double cloth
where figure is formed.
In another modification this cloth is formed with one fine end to one thick or back
end of yarn, wherein one or more ordinary Jacquard machines are employed to govern
the back or stitching warp threads; the harness being drawn through two comber
boards B and B², and knotted for pressing or forming the sheds; the fine warp
threads being governed by two or three healds. When two healds are employed an
equal number of fine warp threads pass through each heald. When three healds are
employed the first or No. 1 and the second or No. 1* have one-fourth of the fine warp
threads through each, the third or No. 2 heald having one-half of the fine warp
threads through it.
In another modification this cloth can be woven by using two or more ordinary
Jacquard machines and no healds, one machine or machines being employed to govern
the back or stitching warp threads, the harness being drawn through two comber
boards B and B², and knotted for pressing or forming the sheds; the other machine or
machines being employed to govern the fine or face warp threads, the latter are also
drawn through two or three comber boards, and are knotted for pressing or forming
the sheds. If two comber boards are employed an equal number of the fine warp
threads pass through each. If three comber boards are employed the first or No. 1
and the second or No. 1* have one-fourth of the fine warp threads through each, the
third or No. 2 having one half of the fine warp threads passing through it.
In another modification this cloth can be woven by using what is known as a twin
Jacquard machine or machines, the twin portion taking the place of the second machine
or machines, the mails acting as No. 1, 1*, and two comber boards or healds, and in
other respects is governed as in the last modification, the twin machine only requiring
one-half the number of cards when weaving a double cloth where figure is formed.
In carrying out the before mentioned modifications of our improved cloth the same
can be woven with one shuttle or with two shuttles. In the latter case one shuttle is
for coarse weft or roving, and the other for fine weft. We employ the ordinary loom
with double box at one end, or we use two shuttles, one for coarse weft or roving and
the other for fine weft, or the loom can have two or three boxes at each end, viz.: "pick
and pick loom," or we use three shuttles one for coarse weft or roving, the other two
shuttles being employed for different counts or colors of fine weft, or two colors of
roving and one of fine weft.
This cloth can be woven with grey, white, colored, or striped back warp threads,
altogether or separately, or with grey, white, colored, or striped face warp threads,
altogether or separately, or with grey, white, colored, or striped thick weft or

page_text: roving, altogether or separately, or with grey, white, colored, or striped fine wef
altogether or separately.
This cloth can be woven with fast or loose ground, fast or loose figure, fast grou
and fast figure, fast ground and loose figure, or fast ground and loose thick warp end
behind the figure.
We weave this cloth with two, three, four, five, or more picks to a card; and wit
one, two, or three shuttles.
The principal feature of this improved cloth consists of a plain or fancy dent r
in the ground on the face side of the cloth; and a plain or fancy dent rib behind t
face figure on the back side of the cloth.
The progressive motions for producing the last three modifications of this cloth a
as follows:-
.
FOR 2 PICKS TO A CARD FOR OR 2 SHUTTLE CLOTH WITH FAST FIGURE.
1st pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
2nd pick, machine down, 1st and 1* healds up, B 1 comber board up.
3rd pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
4th pick, machine down, 2nd or 1st and 2nd healds up, B 2 comber board up.
or
1st pick, machine, up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
2nd pick, machine down, 1st and 1* healds up, B 1 comber board up...
3rd pick, machine-up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
4th pick, machine down, 1st and 1* healds up, B 2 comber board up.
or.
1st pick, inachine up; 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
2nd pick, machine down, 2nd or 1* and 2nd healds up, B 1 comber board up.
3rd pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
4th pick, machine down, 2nd or 1st and 2nd healds up, B 2 comber board up.
or
1st pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
2nd pick, machine down, healds down, B 1 comber board up.
3rd pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
4th pick, machine down, 2nd or 1* and 2nd, heald up, B 2 comber board up.
or
1st pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
2nd pick, machine down, 2nd, or 1* and 2nd, heald up, B1 comber board up.
3rd pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
4th pick, machine down, 1st and 1* healds up, B2 comber board up.
or
1st pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down..
2nd pick, machine down, 1* and 2nd, or 1st, 1*, and 2nd healds up, B 1 comb
board up.
.
3rd pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
4th pick, machine down, 1* and 2nd, or 1st, 1*, and 2nd healds up, B 2 com
board up.
The above six explanations require the second or twin machine up in the 2
and 4th picks for loose figure. The last mentioned may be woven fast or loc
figure with healds as shown.
FOR 3 PICKS TO A CARD, ONE SHUTTLE, FAST FIGURE.
1st pick, inachine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
2nd pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
3rd pick, machine down, 1st and 1* healds up, B 1 comber board up.
4th pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
5th pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down,

page_text: 3rd pick, fine, machine down, 1st and 1* healds up, B 1 comber board up.
4th pick, fine, machine down, healds down, B 2 comber board up.
5th pick, roving, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
6th pick, roving, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
7th pick, fine, machine down, 1st and 1* healds up, B 1 comber board up.
8th pick, fine, machine down, healds down, B 2 comber board up.
or
1st pick, roving, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
2nd pick, roving, machine up, 2nd heald up, coinber board down.
3rd pick, fine, machine down, 1st and 1* healds up, B 1 comber board up.
4th pick, fine, machine down, 2nd or 1* and 2nd healds up, B 2 comber board up.
5th pick, roving, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
6th pick, roving, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
7th pick, fine, machine down, 1st and 1* healds up, B 1 comber board up."
8th pick, fine, machine down, 2nd or 1st and 2nd healds up, B 2 comber board up.
or
:--
1st pick, roving, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down..
2nd pick, roving, machine up, 2nd healds up, comber board down.
3rd pick, fine, machine down, 2nd or 1* and 2nd healds up, B 1 comber board up.
4th pick, fine, machine down, 1st and 1* healds up, B 2 comber board up.
5th pick, roving, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down."
6th pick, roving, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
7th pick, fine, machine down, 2nd or 1st and 2nd healds up, B 1 comber board up.
8th pick, fine, machine down, 1st and 1* healds up, B 2 comber board up.
or
1st pick, roving, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
2nd pick, roving, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
3rd pick, fine, machine down, 1st and 1* healds up, B 1 comber board up.
4th pick, fine, machine down, 1* and 2nd or 1st, 1*, and 2nd healds up, B 2 comber
board up.
5th pick, roving, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
6th pick, roving, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
7th pick, fine, machine down, 1st and 1* healds up, B 1 comber board up.
8th pick, fine, machine down, 1st and 2nd, or 1st, 1*, and 2nd healds up, B 2 comber
board up.
The above four explanations require the second or twin machine up in the 3rd,
4th, 7th, and 8th picks for loose figure. The last mentioned may be woven fast or
loose figure with healds as shown.
FOR 5 PICKS TO A CARD WITH 1 SHUTTLE FOR FAST figure.
1st pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
2nd pick, machine up, 2nd healds up,, comber board down.
+
3rd pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
4th pick, machine down, 1st, 1*, and 2nd healds up, comber board down.
5th pick, machine down, 1st, 1* or 1* healds up, B 1 comber board up.
6th pick, machine up, 2nd healds up, comber board down.
7th pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
8th pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down..
9th pick, machine down, 1st, 1*, and 2nd healds up, comber board down..
10th pick, machine down, 2nd or 1st and 2nd healds up, B 2 comber board up.
or
1st pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber, board down.
2nd pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
3rd pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down:
4th pick, machine down, 1st and 1* healds up, B-1 comber board up.
5th pick, machine down, 2nd or 1* and 2nd healds up, B 2 comber board up.

page_text: 6th pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, cember board down.
7th pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
8th pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber hoard down.
9th pick, machine down, 1st and 1* healds up, B 1 comber board up
10th pick, machine down, 2nd or 1st and 2nd healds up, B 2 combe
or
1st pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
2nd pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
3rd pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
4th pick, machine down, 1st and 1* healds up, B 1 comber board up
5th pick, machine down, healds down, B 2 comber board up.
6th pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
7th pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
8th pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
9th pick, machine down, 2nd or 1* and 2nd healds up, B I comber i
10th pick, machine down, healds down, B 2 comber board up.
or
1st pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
2nd pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
3rd pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
4th pick, machine down, 1st and 1* healds up, B 1 comber board up
5th pick, machine down, healds down, B 2 comber board up.
6th pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
7th pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
8th pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
9th pick, machine down, 1st and 1* healds up, B 1 comber board up
10th pick, machine down, healds down, B 2 comber board up.
or
1st pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
2nd pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
3rd pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
4th pick, machine down, 1st, 1*, and 2nd healds up, comber board d
5th pick, machine down, 1* and 2nd or 1st, 1*, and 2nd healds u
oard up.
6th pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
7th pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
8th pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
9th pick, machine down, 1st, 1*, and 2nd healds up, comber board d
10th pick, machine down, 1st and 2nd, or 1st, 1* and 2nd healds u
oard up.
or
1st pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
2nd pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
3rd pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
4th pick, machine down, 1st, 1*, and 2nd healds up, B 1 comber boa
5th pick, machine down, 1* and 2nd, or 1st, 1*, and 2nd healds up
oard up.
6th pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
7th pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
8th pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
9th pick, machine down, 1st, 1*, and 2nd healds up, B 1 comber boa
10th pick, macbine down, 1st and 2nd, or 1st, 1*, and 2nd healds u
oard up.
The above six explanations require second or twin machine up in th
nd 10th picks for loose figure. The 5th and 6th may be woven fast
ith healds as shown.

page_text: FOR 5 PICKS TO A CARD WITH 2 OR 3 SHUTTLES FOR FAST FIGURE.
1st pick, roving, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up comber board down.
2nd pick, roving, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
3rd pick, roving, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board do wn.
4th pick, fine, machine down, 1st and 1* healds up, B 1 comber board up.
5th pick, fine, machine down, 2nd, or 1* and 2nd healds up, B 2 comber board
6th pick, roving, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
7th pick, roving, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
8th pick, roving, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
9th pick, fine, machine down, 2nd heald up, B 1 comber board up.
10th pick, fine, machine down, 1st and 1* healds up, B 2 comber board up,
"
or
1st pick, roving, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
2nd pick, roving, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
.
3rd pick, roving, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
4th pick, fine, machine down, healds down, B1 comber board up.
5th pick, fine, machine down, 1* and 2nd healds up, B 2 comber board up.
6th pick, roving machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
7th pick, roving, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
8th pick, roving, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
9th pick, fine, machine down, healds down, B 1 comber board up.
10th pick, fine, machine down, 1st and 2nd healds up, B 2 comber board up.
or
1st pick, roving, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down..
2nd pick, roving, machine up, 2nd .heald up, comber board down..
3rd pick, roving, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up comber board down.
4th pick, fine, machine down, 2nd heald up, B 1 comber board up.
5th pick, fine, machine down, 1* and 2nd or 1st, 1*, and 2nd healds up, B 2 com
board up.
6th pick, roving, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
7th pick, roving, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
8th pick, roving, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
9th pick, fine, machine down, 1st, 1*, and 2nd healds up, B 1 comber board up.
10th pick, fine, machine down, 1st and 2nd or 2nd healds up, B 2 com
board up.
or
1st pick, roving, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
2nd pick, roving, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
3rd pick, roving, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
4th pick, fine, machine down, 1st, 1* and 2nd healds up, B 1 comber board up.
5th pick, fine, machine down, 1* and 2nd, or 1st, 1*, and 2nd healds up, B 2 com
board up.
6th pick, roving, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
7th pick, roving, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
8th pick, roving, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
9th pick, fine, machine down, 1st, 1*, and 2nd healds up, B 1 comber board up.
10th pick, fine, machine down, 1st and 2nd, or 1st, 1* and 2nd healds up,
comber board up.
The above four explanations require the second or twin machine up in the 4th,
9th, and 10th picks for loose figure. The last mentioned may be woven fast or l
figure with healds as shown.
FOR 3 PICKS TO A CARD WITH 1 SHUTTLE FOR LOOSE YARN BEHIND FIGURE.

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Figured Cloth.
We, THOMAS PEARSON of the firm of Thomas Pearson and Son of Victoria Mills,
Manufacturers, and JOHN TAYLOR, of 85 Davenport Street, Manager, both of Bolton.
in the County of Lancaster, do hereby declare the nature of our said invention and
in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement:-
This invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of figured cloth and
consists in producing a. raised figure formed by a fine face warp and a coarse weft
B

page_text: or roving for the figure on the face side of the cloth and the ground on the back
side of the clotb.. The ground work on the face side of the cloth is formed by a
plain or fancy dent rib, and also a plain or fancy dent rib forming the figure on
the back side of the faced figure of the clotb, such dent rib being. formed by an
unusually thick yarn of one, two, three, or more folds, or a number of ends running
together as an equivalent for back warp or commonly called stitching yarn. In
manufacturing this improved cloth two yarn beams are employed, one for fine yaru
with twice as many fine yarn ends as the back or stitching yarn on the other beam,
or a yarn beam with an equal number of fine yarn ends to the back or stitching
yarn. In the former case three ends are employed in one dent, and in the latter
two ends are employed in one dent. The other yarn beam contains the back or
stitching yarn as stated above.
When weaving one modification of this cloth wherein two fine ends of face yarn
to one of thick or back stitching yarn are employed, we use one or more ordinary
Jacquard machines to govern the back or stitching warp threads; the harness being
drawn through two comber boards, viz., back board B₁ and back board B2, and
knotted for pressing or forming sheds. We also use four or five healds to govern
the fine warp threads. When four healds are employed there is an equal number
of fine warp threads through each heald. When five healds are employed the first
or No. I and the second or No. 1* have one-eighth of the fine warp threads each;
the third or No. 2, fourth.or No. 3, and fifth or No. 4 have, one-fourth of the fine
warp threads through each heald. We can use all the fine warp threads to form
a face calico and dent rib, or can use only, one-half of the fine warp threads in
the face calico.
.
i
When weaving this cloth with all the fine yarn in face calico we lift the fourth
heald or No. 3 with No. 1 and 1* healds when forming: face figure, and lift the
fifth or No. 4 heald with No. 2 heald when forming face figure. When weaving
with half the fine yarn in face calico we lift the fourth or No. 3 heald with No. 1
and 1 healds when forming the dent rib; we also lift the fifth or No. 4 heald
with the third or No. 2 heald when forming the dent rib.
In another modification we employ two or more ordinary Jacquard machines and
no healds; one machine or machines to govern the back or stitching warp threads,
the harness being drawn through two comber boards and knotted for pressing or
forming sheds. The other machine or machines governs the fine or face warp
threads and is tied up to twice the number of lingoes as the back warp threads
are. The fine or face warp threads are drawn through four or five comber boards,
and are knotted for pressing or forming the sheds. If four comber boards are
employed an equal number of the fine warp threads pass through each. If five
comber boards are employed the first or No. 1 and the second or No. 1* have
one-eighth of the fine warp threads passing through each; the third or No. 2,
fourth or No. 3, and fifth or No. 4 having one-fourth of the fine warp threads
passing through each, or we tie the mounting governing the fine warp threads to the
same number of lingoes as the back warp threads are; the first or No. 1 and second
or No. 1 comber boards having one-eighth of the fine warp threads each; the
third or No. 2 comber board having one-fourth of the fine warp threads; we also
use two healds No. 3 and 4 having one-fourth of the fine warp threads through
each, and do use either all the fine warp threads to form the face calico, dent rib,
and ground, or we use only one-half of the fine, warp threads in face calico.
When weaving, this cloth with all the fine yarn in face calico we lift the fourth
or No. 3 board with No. 1 and 1* boards when forming face figure; or with the
fifth or No. 4 board the third or No. 2 board when forming face figure. When
weaving with half the fine yarn in face calico we lift the fourth or No. 3 board
with No. 1 and 1* boards when forming the dent rib; or the fifth or No. 4
board with the No. 2 board when forming the dent rib. When weaving with equal
face mounting to the back warp mounting and with two healds, No. 3 and 4, with
all the fine yarn in face calico we lift the heald No. 3 with No. 1 and 1* boards
when forming face figure, or the No. 4 heald with No. 2 board. When weaving the

page_text: latter with half the fine yarn in face calico we lift heald No. 3 with No. 1 and 1*
boards to form the dent rib, and the No. 4 heald with No. 2 board when forming
the dent rib.
In another modification of this cloth we employ what is usually known as a
twin Jacquard machine or machines; the twin portion taking the place of the
second machine or machines; the mails acting as No. 1, 1*, and two comber
boards or healds, and in other respects is governed as in the second modification
named above. The twin machine only requires half the number of cards when
weaving a double cloth where figure is formed.
In another modification this cloth is formed with one fine end to one thick or
back end of yarn, wherein one or more ordinary Jacquard machines are employed
to govern the back or stitching warp threads; the harness being drawn through
two comber boards B1 and B2, and knotted for prèssing or forming the sheds.; the
When two healds are
fine warp threads being governed by two or three healds.
employed an equal number of fine warp threads pass through each heald. When
three healds are employed the first or No. 1 and the second or No. 1* have one-
fourth of the fine warp threads through each, the third or No. 2 heald having
one-half of the fine warp threads through it.
In another modification this cloth can be woven by using two or more ordinary
Jacquard machines and no healds, one machine or machines being employed. to
govern the back or stitching warp threads, the harness being drawn through two
comber hoards B1 and B2, and knotted for pressing or forming the 'sheds; the
other machine or machines being employed to govern the fine or face warp threads,
the latter are also drawn through two or three comber boards, and are knotted for
pressing or forming the sheds. If two comber boards, are employed an equal
number of the fine warp threads pass through each. If three comber boards are
employed the first or No. 1 and the second or No. 1* have one-fourth of the fine
warp threads through each, the third or No. 2 having one-half of the fine warp
threads passing through it.
In another modification this cloth can be woven by using what is known as
a twin Jacquard machine or machines, the twin portion taking the place of the
second machine or machines, the mails acting as No. 1, 1*, and 2 comber boards or
healds, and in other respects is governed as in the last modification, the twin machine
only requiring one-half the number of cards when weaving a double cloth where
Sigure is formed.
In carrying out the before mentioned modifications of our improved cloth the
In the latter case one
same can be woven with one shuttle, or with two shuttles.
shuttle is for coarse weft or roving, and the other for fine weft. We employ the
ordinary loom with double box at one end, or we use two shuttles, one for coarse
weft or roving and the other for fine weft, or the loom can have two or three
boxes at each end, viz. :-" pick and pick loom," or we use three shuttles one for
coarse weft or roving, the other two shuttles being employed for different counts
or colors of fine weft, or two colors of roving and one of fine weft.. This cloth
can be woven with grey, white, colored, or striped back warp threads, altogether
or separately, or with grey, white, colored, or striped face warp threads, altogether
or separately, or with grey, white, colored, or striped thick, weft or roving,
altogether or separately, or with grey, white, colored, or striped fine weft, altogether
or separately.
This cloth can be woven with fast or loose ground, fast or loose figure, fast
ground and fast figure, fast ground and loose figure, or fast ground and loose thick
warp ends behind the figure.
We weave this cloth with two, three, four, five, or more picks to a card; and with
one, two, or three shuttles.
The principal feature of this improved cloth consists of a plain or fancy, dent rib in
the ground on the face side of the cloth, and a plain or fancy dent rib behind the face

page_text: The progressive motions for producing the last three modifications of this cloth
as follows:-
FOR 2 PICKS TO A CARD FOR 1 OR 2 SHUTTLE CLOTH WITH FAST FIGURE.
1st pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
2nd pick, machine down, 1st and 1* healds up, B¹ comber board up.
3rd pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
4th pick, machine down, 2nd, or 1st and 2nd healds up, B2 comber board up.
or
1st pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
2nd pick, machine down, 1st and 1* healds up, B¹ comber board up.
3rd pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
4th pick, machine down, 1st and 1* healds up, B2 comber board up.
or
1st pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
2nd pick, machine down, 2nd or 1* and 2nd healds up, B¹ comber board up.
3rd pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
4th pick, machine down, 2nd or 1st and 2nd healds up, B2 comber board up.
or
1st pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
2nd pick, machine down, healds down, B₁ comber board up.
3rd pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down;
4th pick, machine down, 2nd or 1* and 2nd heald up, B² comber board up.
+
or
1st pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
2nd pick, machine down, 2nd or 1* and 2nd heald up, B₁ comber board up.
3rd pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
4th pick, machine down, 1st and 1* healds up, B2 comber board up.
or
1st pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
2nd pick, machine down, 1st and 2nd or 1st, 1*, and 2nd healds up, B₁ com
board up.
3rd pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
4th pick, machine down, 1* and 2nd, or 1st, 1* and 2nd healds up, B2 com
board up.
The above six explanations require the 2nd or twin machine up in the 2nd and
picks for loose figure. The last mentioned may be woven fast or loose figure w
healds as shown.
FOR 3 PICKS TO A. CARD, ONE SHUTTLE, FAST FIGURE.
1st pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
2nd pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
3rd pick, machine down, 1st and 1* healds up, B₁ comber board up.
4th pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
5th pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
6th pick, machine down, 2nd or 1* and 2nd healds up, B2 comber board up.
or
1st pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
2nd pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
3rd pick, machine down, 2nd or 1* and 2nd heald up, B1 comber board up.
4th pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
5th pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
6th pick, machine down, 2nd or 1st and 2nd heald up, B² comber board up.
or
1st pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber-board down.

page_text: 2nd pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber-board down.
3rd pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
4th pick, machine down, 1st and 1* healds up, B¹ comber board up.
5th pick, machine down, healds down, B2 comber board up.
6th pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down."
7th pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
8th pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
9th pick, machine down, 2nd, or 1* and 2nd healds up, B¹ comber board up.
10th pick, machine down, healds down, B2 comber board up.
or
1st pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
2nd pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
3rd pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber, board down.
4th pick, machine down, 1st and 1* healds up, B¹ comber board up.
5th pick, machine down, healds down, B2 comber board up.
6th pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
7th pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
8th pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
9th pick, machine down, 1st and 1* healds up, B¹ comber board up.
10th pick, machine down, healds down, B2 comber board up.
or
1st pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
2nd pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
3rd pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down..
4th pick, machine down, 1st, 1*, and 2nd healds up, comber board down.
5th pick, machine down, 1* and 2nd, or 1st, 1*, and 2nd healds up, B¹ comber
board up.
6th pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
7th pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
8th pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
9th pick, machine down, 1st, 1*, and 2nd healds up, comber board down.
10th pick, machine down, 1st and 2nd, or 1st, 1*, and 2nd healds up, B2 combe
board up.
or
1st pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
2nd pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
3rd pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
4th pick, machine down, 1st, 1*, and 2nd healds up, B₁ comber board up.
5th pick, machine down, 1* and 2nd, or 1st, 1*, and 2nd healds up, B2 combe
board up.
6th pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
7th pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up; comber board down.
8th pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
9th pick, machine down, 1st, 1*, and 2nd healds up, B₁ comber board up.
10th pick, machine down, 1st and 2nd, or 1st, 1*, and 2nd healds up, B2 combe
board up.
,
1
The above six explanations require second or twin machine up in the 4th, 5th, 9th
and 10th picks for loose figure. The 5th and 6th may be woven fast or loose figure
with healds as shown.
FOR 5 PICKS TO A CARD WITH 2 OR 3 SHUTTLES FOR FAST FIGURE..
1st pick, roving, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
2nd pick, roving, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
3rd pick, roving, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
4th pick, fine, machine down, 1st and 1* healds up, B¹ comber board up,

page_text: 5th pick, fine, machine down, 2nd, or 1* and 2nd healds up, B2 comber board up.
6th pick, roving, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
7th pick, roving, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board.down.
8th pick, roving, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
9th pick, fine, machine down, 2nd heald up, B¹ comber board up.
10th pick, fine, machine down, 1st and 1* healds up, B2 comber board up..
or
1st pick, roving, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
2nd pick, roving, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
3rd pick, roving, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
4th pick, fine, machine down, healds down, B¹ comber board up.
5th pick, fine, machine down, 1* and 2nd healds up, B2 comber board up.
6th pick, roving, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
7th pick, roving, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
8th pick, roving, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
9th pick, fine, machine down, healds down, B¹ comber board up.
10th pick, fine, machine down, 1st and 2nd healds up, B' comber board up.
or
1st pick, roving, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
2nd pick, roving, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
3rd pick, roving, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
4th pick, fine, machine down, 2nd heald up, B¹ comber board up.
5th pick, fine, machine down, 1* and 2nd, or 1st, 1*, and 2nd healds up, B2 comber
board up.
6th pick, roving, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
7th pick, roving, machine up, 1st and 1* healds' up, comber board down.
8th pick, roving, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
9th pick, fine, machine down, 1st, 1*, and 2nd healds up, B₁ comber board up.
10th pick, fine, 'machine down, 1st and 2nd, or 2nd healds up, B2 comber
board up.
or
1st pick, roving, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down..
2nd pick, roving, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
3rd pick, roving, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
4th pick, fine, machine down, 1st, 1*, and 2nd healds up, B' comber board up.
5th pick, fine, machine down, 1* and 2nd, or 1st, 1*, and 2nd healds up, B2 comber
board up.
6th pick, roving, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
7th pick, roving, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
8th pick, roving, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
9th pick, fine, machine down, 1st, 1*, and 2nd healds up, B¹ comber board up.
10th pick, fine, machine down, 1st and 2nd, or 1st, 1*, and 2nd healds up, B2 comber
board up.
The above four explanations require the second or twin machine up in the 4th, 5th, 9th,
and 10th picks for loose figure. The last mentioned may be woven fast or loose figure
with healds as shown.
FOR 3 PICKS TO A CARD WITH 1 SHUTTLE FOR LOOSE YARN BEHIND FIGURE.
1st pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
2nd pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
3rd pick, machine down, 1st, 1*, and 2nd healds up, comber board down.
4th pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
5th pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
6th pick, machine down, 1st, 1*, and 2nd healds up, comber board down.
C

page_text: FOR 4 PICKS TO A CARD WITH 1 SHUTTLE FOR LOOSE YARN BEHIND FIGURE.
1st pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down..
2nd pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
3rd pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
4th pick, machine down, 1st, 1*, and 2nd healds up, comber board down.
5th pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
6th pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
7th pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
8th pick, machine down, 1st, 1*, and 2nd healds up, comber board down.
FOR 5 PICKS TO A CARD WITH 1 SHUTTLE FOR LOOSE YARN BEHIND FIGURE.
1st pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
2nd pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
3rd pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
4th pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
5th pick, machine down, 1st, 1*, and 2nd healds up, comber board down.
6th pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
7th pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
8th pick, machine up,.1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
9th pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down,
10th pick, machine down, 1st, 1*, and 2nd healds up, comber board down.
.:
.
FOR 4 PICKS TO A CARD WITH '1 'SHUTTLE FOR DOUBLE CLOTH IN GROUND AND,
FAST FIGURE.
1st pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
2nd pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
3rd pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down,
4th pick, machine down, healds down, B¹ comber board up...
5th pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
6th pick, machine up, 1st and 1* healds up, comber board down.
7th pick, machine up, 2nd heald up, comber board down.
8th pick, machine down, healds down, B2 comber board up.
"
The last mentioned requires the second or twin machine up in the 4th and 8th picks
for double cloth in ground and loose figure.
In all cases the number applying to healds as stated also applies to comber
boards.
In order that our invention may be fully understood and readily carried into
operation we append the annexed sheet of drawing.
Fig. 1 is a section of our improved cloth woven according to the 20th method set
forth in the progressive motions, or the second method for 4 picks to a card with
2 or 3 shuttles for fast figure.
The full line A and the dotted line B represent fine warp threads, and C
and D are coarse warp threads. E, E, are roving picks for face calico, and
G, G, are fine picks.
.
The dent ribs are formed on the face, of the ground of the cloth by the coarse
threads C and D in combination with the fine warp threads A and B.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what we
claim is
The manufacture of figured cloth with the en bossed or raised figure formed by a
fine face warp and a coarse weft or roving for the figure on the face side of the

page_text: cloth and the ground on the back side of the cloth, with one or more colors or
striped back warp threads, face warp threads, thick weft or roving, or fine weft,
each being employed altogether or separately, and a plain or fancy dent rib in the
ground on the face side of the cloth and behind the face figure on the back side of
the cloth, by means of the various methods of picking and drawing in of the ends,
made in broad or narrow looms with one or more shuttles, substantially as
described.