IMPROVEMENTS IN APPARATUS FOR DARNING STOCKINGS AND OTHER FABRICS
Year: 1863

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Robert Baynes, of Mansel Villas, Wimbledon, in
the County of Surrey, Gentleman, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS
IN APPARATUS FOR DARNING STOCKINGS AND OTHER FABRICS,"
Sealed the 14th June 1864, and dated the 21st December 1863,
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Robert Baynes at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
21st December 1863.
I, ROBERT BAYNES, of Mansel Villas, Wimbledon, in the County of Surrey,
Gentleman, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN APPARATUS FOR DARNING STOCKINGS AND OTHER FABRICS," to be as
follows:-
My Invention consists in the application of what may be termed two dies,
one on either side of the fabric to be darned, which is compressed between
such dies, and caused to take such form that the needle carrying the darning
thread is simply passed straight through the several passages in these dies and
so effects the darning. I make these dies of metal of a size somewhat in
proportion to the holes and kind of fabric to be darned; their surfaces are
divided out into squares or chequered, and supposing, for illustration, I liken
it to a draft board, in the one die the black squares are all cut away and sunk,
so that the white squares stand in relief, and in the other die the white
squares are similarly sunk, so that the black squares are in relief, the several
squares are each of less area than would result from dividing out the surfaces

page_text: by lines, in order that when they come together there shall be room for the
fabric between them, and which by pressing the two dies together is forced
into undulations corresponding with the contour of the dies, the hole to be
made occupying the centre of the die surface; lateral channels are provided
in each row of the raised surfaces in each die, and supposing there are twelve
squares on a side (that would be 144 squares in the area of the die) there
will be twelve parallel needle and thread channels in each die. When the
dies are placed together these channels are at right angles to each other, so
that the threads after being passed through both series will be interlocked
with each other in the manner of darning or like a woven fabric, the threads
so applied will also be similarly interlocked with the fabric placed between
the dies. The threads may be introduced in both directions by the needle
carrying the thread through the die; but I find it sufficient for the threads in
one direction to be simply placed on one of the dies previously to application
to the fabric, the thread being laid to and fro in the several thread channels
before mentioned; the thread on being introduced in the transverse direc-
tion after the application of the dies to the fabric will be interlocked or
woven in with the fabric being darned, and so secure and darn the whole
together. This apparatus will render the operation of darning very simple
and may be expeditiously performed, besides which if the dies be well made
it will be remarkable for regularity and neatness.
I have supposed a needle like an ordinary darning needle to be used, and
the operation to be performed by hand, the needle being reversed each time
of its passage, but a double-pointed needle (the eye being in the middle)
may be used to facilitate the operation, and instead of operating by hand
the work may be done by machinery, the needle being taken hold of by
pincers disposed at each edge of the die and worked by suitable apparatus,
somewhat in the manner of actuating tambour needles by machinery. To
facilitate the entrance of the needles in the channels I make them a little
funnel-mouthed at each end.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Robert Baynes in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
21st June 1864.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I. ROBERT
BAYNES, of Mansel Villas, Wimbledon, in the County of Surrey, Gentleman,
send greeting.

page_text: WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-first day of December, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-three, in the twenty-seventh year
of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto
me, the said Robert Baynes, Her special licence that I, the said Robert
Baynes, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such other as I,
the said Robert Baynes, iny executors, administrators, and assigns, should
at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times
thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make,
use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and
Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN APPARATUS FOR DARNING STOCKINGS AND OTHER FABRICS," upon the
condition (amongst others) that I, the said Robert Baynes, my executors or
administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one of
their hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature
of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed,
and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six
calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters
Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that 1, the said Robert Baynes, do hereby declare the
nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement reference being had to the Sheet of Drawings hereunto aunexed,
and to the letters and figures marked thereon (that is to say):-
My Invention relates to apparatus for darning stockings and other fabrics
and consists in the application of what may be termed two dies, one of which
is placed on either side of the fabric to be darned. The fabric is compressed
between these dies, and caused to take such form that the needle carrying the
darning thread is simply passed through the several needle passages, thus
effecting the darning. I make these dies of metal, of a size somewhat in
proportion to the holes and kind of fabric to be darned; the surfaces of these
dies, for example, I divide into squares or chequers; and, for illustration, I
will liken it to a draught board, in the one die the black squares are counter-
sunk, so that the white squares stand in relief, and in the other die the white
squares are similarly sunk, so that the black squares are in relief; the several
squares are each of less area than would result from dividing out the surfaces
by lines, in order that when they come together there shall be room for the
fabric between them. The two dies when pressed together force the fabric
placed between them into undulations corresponding with the contour of the

page_text: dies;
the part to be darned or hole to be mended is so disposed as to occupy
the centre of the die surface. Lateral channels are provided in each row of
the raised surfaces in each die, and supposing there are twelve squares on a
side (making in all 144 squares in the area of the die) there will be two series
of twelve parallel needle and thread channels in each die; when the dies are
placed together these series of channels are at right angles to each other, and
so disposed that the threads when passed in, both series will be found inter-
locked with each other in the manner of darning, or like a woven fabric; the
threads so applied will also be suitably interlocked with the fabric placed
between the dies. The thread may be introduced in both directions by the
needle carrying the cotton through the dies, the needle channels being so
disposed that the threads will be interlocked with each other and with the
fabric, yet I prefer and find it sufficient that the threads in one direction be
simply placed on one of the dies previously to its application to the fabric, the
thread being laid to and fro in one of the series of thread channels before
mentioned. The thread on being introduced in the transverse direction after
the application of the dies will be interlocked or interwoven with the threads
laid on the die as above described, as also with the fabric being darned.
Although I have only given one example above, there are various forms
in which the die surfaces may be made to produce the undulating effect on
the fabric for the purpose described, which will herein-after sufficiently
appear with reference to Drawings. In order that the darned work may be
finer, I prefer to form the passage for the needle in one direction on the dies,
and they may even be in one die only; after introducing all the threads in one
direction I shift the pair of dies or plates to a position at right angles to that
previously occupied on the fabric, and introduce the second series of threads
by the same needle passages, but which, by reason of the change of position
of the apparatus, will be across and interlocked or interwoven with the first
series of threads, and with the fabric precisely as in darning.
I have supposed a needle like an ordinary needle to be used, and the
operation to be performed by hand, the needle being reversed each time of its
passage, but a double-pointed needle (the eye being in the middle) may be
used to facilitate the operation, the needle being passed back and forth
from one hand to the other without turning it round, and without turning
the die. To facilitate the entrance of the needles in the channels I make
them a little funnel-mouthed at each end.
In darning stockings I find it very conducive to neatness and improved
appearance, as well as strength in the work, to resort to what I term the
"
patch process," which consists in first preparing the hole to be darned by

page_text: punching or otherwise cutting it round, and so rendering it a clean round hole
instead of a ragged one; I then cut with a panch (similar to a gun wad punch)
from a similar fabric to that under operation, a round piece slightly larger
than the hole; this piece I place in the hole in the stocking (the edges of
which it will overlap, but when corrugated by the dies will fit exactly). I
then place the part of the stocking so prepared between the darning dies,
and proceed to darn it as before described, the dies of course carrying the
darning threads beyond the limits of the hole, and so securely interweaving
it with the sound part of the fabric.
In order to facilitate the operation of darning according to my Invention,
I sometimes employ a needle fitted into a handle furnished with a bobbin,
on which is a supply of darning cotton, and instead of the eye being placed
at the extreme end, it is made about half an inch from the point. The
handle is made hollow, unscrewing at one end, and a spindle or wire inserted
running the whole length of the interior, on which is placed a conical reel
made for this purpose, containing the cotton. The end of this cotton is
brought through a small hole at the lower part of the handle nearest to the
needle, and passing through a small quill on the under side, it is thence taken
through the eye of the needle, and is ready for working.
In darning with my apparatus, either with the ordinary needle or with the
bobbin needle last herein mentioned, I find it of advantage to provide a stand
and clamp to grip and hold the dies at a convenient height above a table to
perform the work. In order that the needle may always be held in the right
hand (if ordinary needles be used) I so fit the parts holding the dies to the
clamp apparatus that the whole may be turned half round with facility,
whereby the needle is entered and passed through the die from one side with
the right hand, the dies and parts holding them are immediately turned half
round with the left hand, and so presenting the point of the needle to the
right hand, by which it is drawn out, it is again introduced on the same side
from which it was withdrawn, the die again turned half round, and so on.
With the bobbin needle this turning round is unnecessary, as the dies being
fixed (with the stocking between them) and placed in the clamp, the needle is
held in the right hand of the operator and passed through one of the needle
passages. When the eye is a little way through and on the other side it is
slightly drawn backwards, which will cause the cotton to assume the appear-
ance of a loop. The operator holding in the left hand a plain straight needle
or point fixed in a handle, passes this point through the loop in the cotton and
withdraws the bobbin needle, the cotton is thereby prevented.from being with-
drawn by the point, and is left remaining in the stocking; this is of course to

page_text: be repeated for every succeeding stitch until the work is completed; this
method will of course leave a double thread inserted at each passage of the
needle. By the aid of this needle the operator can always work with the
right hand without the necessity of turning the machine round at each stitch
as for the ordinary needle, and as above described, while the cotton roving off
the bobbin as required for use obviates the necessity for continually threading
the needle, and can be continuously worked until the bobbin is exhausted.
The cotton also being moved on through the eye of the needle every time a
stitch is taken prevents its being frayed or cut, to which it would be liable
if remaining in the eye exactly at the same place while working and being
repeatedly drawn through the needle passages.
DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS.
Fig. 1 represents a face view of a die or plate arranged and formed accord-
ing to my Invention; the whole area of the die is adapted to the size of the
work it is intended to perform, and may be larger or smaller than that
represented in the Drawing. For stockings I find an inch or 1 in. square to
be a convenient size, but in the Drawings, for better illustration, I have shown
the whole of an area four or five times greater than the actual size, while the
corragating or undulating parts of the dies are represented on a scale eight or
ten times larger. Fig. 2 represents a side view of the upper and lower dies,
which are similarly formed, except that the raised squares a, a, of the one die
occupy the blank spaces in the other, as iudicated by the dotted lines a¹, while
Fig. 3 represents a section through the two dies with the fabrics between
them; b,b, are the needle passages, which are in these dies formed one half of
their depth in each. In order that the dies may always fit accurately together
in the same relative position, I form projections c, d, on the one which fit into
spaces c, d, cut away in the other, as seen; these locking parts are the same
in the several Figures. In these dies I have represented the needle passages
formed only in one direction across the dies, which I prefer, as they are
capable of finer work and are more simply made, but it involves the necessity
of shifting the position of the dies on the fabric after introducing the threads
in one direction, in order to introduce them in the transverse direction, which
is done by the same needle passages b, b. When the position of the dies is
changed the threads previously introduced will be undulated together with the
fabric, and the transverse threads when introduced will be interwoven or
interlocked with them, as also with the fabric in the manner of darning, as
well understood. Fig. 4 represents a face view of a die having the needle
passages in both directions, but which are only suitable for coarse work. In

page_text: darning with these dies I first place a thread on one of them backwards and
forwards, as shown by the red line. These dies are then put together with the
fabric and threads, shown red, between them, and with the hole to be mended
occupying the centre of the die surface; the threads and fabric will be
undulated by thecompressionofthedies; on passing the needle threads through
the die in the trausverse direction they will interlock and darn the whole
together. In the die receiving the thread, shown in red, it is preferable to
omit the needle passages across its face, as such passages existing in the
margins ff,only (see Fig. 6) will serve to place and hold the thread while
stretched across the raised parts of the general surface, and which will be
introduced with the effect above described. The threads may be introduced in
both directions by needle passages and without shifting the dies from the
fabric by cutting these passages alternately at different levels, as seen in the
section Fig. 5, but this produces less perfect work, and requires longer time
to execute than by laying in the thread, as last herein described. Instead
of squares the undulated die surfaces may consist of a series of round pro-
jections, as represented in face view of one of the dies in Fig. 7, the position
of the projections on the other being indicated in dotted circles.
Fig. 8 represents another pair of dies for darning stockings according to
my Invention. In this case the fabric is undulated by a series of parallel
ribs e,e, on each die, and so disposed as to interlock and lap on each other as
represented by the dotted lines e², e. The needle passages b,b, pass through
in one direction only, as before described, the position of the dies being
changed on the fabric to introduce the transverse threads. Where the needle
passages are in one direction they exist only in two of the marginal parts ff,
and may be divided, one half of each passage being in the upper and lower
die; or the marginal passages may be altogether in the upper die, the corre-
sponding marginal parts in the lower die being altogether removed, in this
manner larger passages are presented to view, and the needles are more
easily entered. By the upper die I mean that one placed above the fabric
and kept in view, while the under one is that placed below the fabric (say
inside a stocking) and hidden from view.
Fig. 9 represents one of a pair of dies, a modification of Fig. 8, some of the
ribs e being simply inclined in opposite directions, but with similar effect on
the fabric when pressed between two such dies. Fig. 10 is a further
illustration of the ribbed dies, which will require no special description.
Fig. 11 illustrates one of a pair of ribbed dies, in which the ribs are in waved
lines, the needle and thread passages being the same as before, the effect of
these dies is very similar and for like purpose to that before described. Fig.12

page_text: represents dies with a zig-zag form of the ribs, and to which the last preceding
remarks equally apply. Fig. 13 represents a face view of an upper die, in
which the cross needle passages are altogether in that die, while the lower
die represented at Fig. 14 is furnished simply with parallel ribs; a side view
and partial section of these dies is represented at Fig. 15. It will be observed
also that in these dies the margin of the lower die has no needle passages,
they being in the upper die. In these dies it will be seen that the needle
be introduced
passages are formed in both directions, so that the threads may
in both directions without shifting the dies from the fabric, but it must be
observed at same time in doing this it is preferable to adopt what has been
herein denominated the "patch process" in order that the crossed threads may
be more certainly and securely bound together, though this is optional. These
dies are furnished with locking and registering parts at the corners to bring
them properly together. In using these last dies the fabric will be formed
into a series of corrugations, and while so held it the needle and thread are
passed through the passages they will skim over the tops of the ribs in the
lower die, at same time pass through the tops of the corrugations of the
fabric stretched over such ribs, and thus the threads and fabric become
thoroughly incorporated. Instead of making the needle passages in both
directions in these dies, they may be only in one direction, and used as
previously described by shifting them on the fabric for the cross threads.
Fig. 16 shows another arrangement of the dies, in which the corrugations
are made by a series of wires g.g, stretched between two holders h, h', one of
which may be slid off and on the ends of the wires; i, i, is the lower die which
is simply a series of corrugations as before; k, k, is an upper die with the
needle passages. The fabric is pressed down into the corrugations of the
lower die by the wires g. 9, the upper die k is then pressed down on the
fabric and wires so disposed. The needle passages being transversely to
the corrugations, on passing the needle through the passages in the upper die
it will pass through the tops of the corrugations in the fabric precisely as
described with reference to the dies last herein-above described. The
corrugating wires will be darned into the fabric in operating with this last
apparatus, but which are readily withdrawn by removing the loose piece h,
the wires are then withdrawn by the piece h', in which they are fixed. In
dies having the needle passages confined entirely to the lower die, it is not
important that they should register with each other exactly.
Fig. 17 represents a position and arrangement of the lower die and cor-
rugating wires by which the thread may be introduced by an action similar
to the action of the needle in the sewing machine. The point of the needle is

page_text: caused to reciprocate transversely in close proximity, and in fact to touch
the ribs of the lower die. When the point of the needle with the loop
has been threaded through the several corrugations of the fabric stretched
over the ribs it draws back slightly and stops, thereby throwing out a loop
of the thread, this is taken hold of by a point which advances for the pur-
pose, the needle then withdraws, during which the point holds the double of
the thread, the dies now move laterally the width of a stitch, and a second
introduction of thread takes place, and so ou, the part holding the loop at bot-
tom advances and recedes to catch and hold the loop, as is well understood.
Some of the dies represented in the Drawings and herein-before described
should only be used for what is technically called "running" or thickening
the fabric, and not for mending a hole, but I can nevertheless use them
advantageously for the latter purpose by what I term the "patch" process,
as before mentioned.
In carrying this into effect I place inside the stocking (at the part where
the hole exists) a flat die or square piece of soft metal (as lead, &c.) I
stretch the fabric evenly and tightly on this flat surface, and with a suitable
punch I now cut a clean round piece out of the stocking, taking off all the
ragged edges of the hole. I then take a piece of an old stocking, about the
same texture as the one to be mended, and from that I cut w th another
punch (a little larger than the one preceding) a piece of the fabric, and
inserting this into the hole already made in the stocking, and placing both
together between the dies I proceed as before. The stitches being made
to traverse at right angles as described will firmly unite the two together
and thus make the fabric at the part of insertion of the patch much stronger
than it was previously to its being mended. The reason for using a punch
a little larger in cutting the patch is to avoid a slight separation or parting
which would otherwise exist on completion all round the patch from the
fact of its being a little drawn or shrunk by the necessary slight corruga-
tions when between the dies. I do not limit myself to the circular shape
of the patch, as it may be made oval, square, triangular, or of any other
form. The principle of the patch may be used with advantage in all the
different dies which I have described, but can be dispensed with at pleasure
when using those dies which weave or take up the stitches, but leaving the
threads only to fill up the hole, as in darning by hand.
Fig. 18 represents a bobbin needle in a handle, which I find very con-
venient to use in combination with the dies in darning or thickening fabrics.
7 is the handle, hollow from end to end, and with bearings in which to
place the pivots of bobbins arranged so as to be readily removed and another

page_text: introduced. The thread is conducted from the bobbin through a small hole
at m, and along a quill or passage O at the ferrule, and thence to the eye
of the needle at p. In using this needle the thread unwinds from the
bobbin as it is used up, a double of the thread is passed through the needle
passage in the dies while holding the needle in the right hand; so soon as
the loop emerges from the opposite side a stilleto or point held in the left
hand is placed in the loop, the needle on being withdrawn leaves the double
thread in the passages; the same operation is repeated through all the pas-
sages, and thus the whole work may be executed without turning the dies.
Fig. 19 represents a clamp or apparatus for holding the dies while
darning. is a pedestal, which may be fixed or of sufficient solidity to form
a stand; s is au upright carrying a little table or plate t, on which the lower
die is placed, and with it the stocking, which will be passed over and envelope
the stem s; u is a bent arm carrying a pendant stem v, which is pressed
down by a helical spring contained within a tube o enclosing stem v, and
furnished with a plate w which presses on the upper die, the plates tand
w are fitted so as to turn round easily on their supporting axes.
A pair
of dies being placed between these plates, with the fabric to be darned or
thickened between them, will be held in a convenient position for operating
as above described; a is a small finger and thumb hold by which the plates
and dies can be all rotated simultaneously on a vertical axis in order to
present first one edge of the dies and then the opposite to the right hand
of the operator when using an ordinary needle.
In order that the upper plate w may move out of the way, and to place
I make
the stocking or fabric with the dies in position on the lower one,
In addition to darning
the arm u to turn in the pedestal as a crane.
stockings, and other fabrics for repairs or strengthening I also use these
dies for the purpose of introducing ornamental figures on fabrics, or even
for marking initials or other distinguishing marks, in which case I make the
outline of the dies to represent the outline of the mark or design required,
and so limiting the area of operation and defining the mark or design; or
the marks or designs may be thrown up by cutting or hollowing out the
form of the design in the faces of one or it may be both dies, whereby
floating threads will be left on the surface of the fabric under operation,
and so exhibiting the mark or design somewhat in the manner of represent
ing designs on woven fabrics either by white or colored threads.
It will be seen from the diagrams given that the pattern or engraved
surfaces of the dies may be very much varied without departing from the
required conditions on which the Invention is based, viz., that the stocking o

page_text: other fabric to be darned, thickened, ornamented, or marked, be alternately
raised and depressed or corrugated, and the needle passages so placed that
each ridge or raised part shall be pierced by the travelling needle, leaving
of course the cotton in the track as herein-before described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Robert Baynes, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Twenty-first day of June, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-four.
ROBT. BAYNES. (L.S.)