AN IMPROVED EMBROIDERING AND BRAIDING MACHINE
Year: 1874

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Edward Gedge, of No. 11, Wellington
Street, Strand, in the County of Middlesex, Patent Agent, for the
Invention of "AN IMPROVED EMBROIDERING AND BRAIDING MACHINE." -A
communication from abroad by Emile Cornely, of Paris, France.
Sealed the 12th May 1874, and dated the 8th January 1874.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Edward Gedge
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on
the 8th January 1874.
I, WILLIAM EDWARD GEDGE, of No. 11, Wellington Street, Strand, in
the County of Middlesex; Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature of.
the said Invention for "AN IMPROVED EMBROIDERING AND BRAIDING MACHINE,"
a communication to me from abroad by Emile Cornely, of Paris, France,
to be as follows:-
_
This Invention relates to a mechanical arrangement intended to
produce the application of the braid by means of the embroidery
machines termed "Bonnaz couso-brodeurs," Patented A.D. 1868, No.
3590. This new application takes place while preserving to the principal.

page_text: parts of these machines their respective positions and functions, pro-
ducing the braiding upon the fabrics according to the requirements of
trade and manufacture. To attain this end the braiding cord must be
presented to the needle in suchwise that the needle constantly stitches
it in the middle while following all the sinuosities or designs that the
machine executes by means of its universal feed motion.
ducing the braiding upon the fabrics according to the requirements of
trade and manufacture. To attain this end the braiding cord must be
presented to the needle in suchwise that the needle constantly stitches
it in the middle while following all the sinuosities or designs that the
machine executes by means of its universal feed motion.
Another trade requirement is that the stitch should be made above the
braid, whereas this machine-makes a chain stitch.
The first requirement is obtained by the aid of the mechanism herein-
after described.
As regards the second requirement it is necessary to state that the
"Bonnaz couso-brodeur" in working with its crotchet needle makes an
embroidery chain stich on the right side, that is to say, on the top of the
fabric, therefore in order that the stitching may be made upon the braid
as required by the trade, it is necessary that this braid be placed beneath
the fabric, that is to say, between the table of the machine and the
fabric.
"
These requirements have been met by constructing the disc into
which the needle penetrates in suchwise that it may turn on itself, its
centre of rotation being the hole into which the needle penetrates, and
that by making at a little distance from this hole a rectangular opening
by which the braiding cord will pass, this latter will always be guided
under the needle. This disc receives its rotary motion by means of
toothed gearing actuated by the crank which works the universal feed
motion of the emboridering arrangement, so that the braiding cord is
presented under the needle and beneath the fabric always in the direction
of the feed motion, in order to obtain the sinuosities of the design to be
executed in braid. It is equally necessary that the reel which carries
the braiding cord should turn with the needle disc to prevent this braid
from turning round the mechanism placed under the machine.
On the accompanying Sheet of Drawing Fig. 1 represents a lateral
elevation of the "couso-brodeur," with a central section of the looper
of the needle disc; Fig. 2 is a front elevation, same section.
Figures 1 and 2 show principally the mechanism in connection with
the braiding, the other details of the machine being known.

page_text: In order that the reel or bobbin of the braiding cord may turn freely
beneath the table B of the machine the horizontal shaft C is lowered,
and being driven by the connecting rod D and lever E actuates the
looper A. by means of the screw gearing F. The looper A is set upon a
support G, which is isolatad and simply kept by a curved arm H against
the table of the machine.
A shoulder a in the upper part of the support G serves to hold a
toothed wheel I. This wheel is furnished with a crown or ring d
(Fig. 4), in which the needle disc 6 (see Fig. 3) is placed by means of
another ring e penetrating into the cavity presented by the wheel I.
This wheel is held in a horizontal position by the plate 9 screwed on the
support G. K is the reel or bobbin upon which the braiding cord is
wound; it is upheld by the reel carrier L fixed to the wheel I. The
wheel I gears with the wheel M of same diameter. This latter is set on
the shaft N, which also carries the bevel pinion O gearing with the
pinion P set on the slotted tube Q, in which the horizontal shaft C
turns freely, actuated by the lever E, but which it carries with it when
set in rotation by means of the tongue h which is screwed on the shaft C,
and plays in the slide or slot of the tube Q.
The crank R guides the universal feed motion of the machine, and
turns at the same time as the needle and the looper to act in concert
with the parts of the feed motion at the will of the person working the
machine. This operation is effected by the toothed gearing op, r 8, tu,
xy, which exists already upon the "Bonnaz couso-brodeur." At the
same time it makes the disc 6 pivot around its centre by means of the
pieces I, M, O, P, which do not belong to the said machine. The result
is that the hole o, the reel K, the looper A, and the crotchet needle R¹
never change their position in relation to each other, and that therefore
they turn in concert with the universal feed motion to produce a perfect
braiding. The braid passes from the reel K, through a hole p made in
the body of the wheel I, and from thence by one or more guides through
the rectangular opening o in the disc b.
Figures 3 and 4 show details of the wheel I and disc b. It will be
seen that this latter may be fixed to the wheel by a spring pin, but this
detail of construction may be modified at will.
In the case that the rotation of the disc b should cause disarrangement
in the position of the stuff or fabric by reason of the friction, it may be

page_text: slightly lowered beneath the level of the table B, upon which the fabric
being upheld will maintain itself by its weight.
The novelty of this Invention may be summed up, as the system of
disc turning in the centre of the needle hole, in combination with a
braid carrier o and reel carrier L, which are placed in combination with
the known parts of the machine known as the "Bonnaz couso-brodeur,"
to produce a braiding with the stitching on the braid.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said William Edward Gedge in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 15th May 1874.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, WILLIAM
EDWARD GEDGE, of No. 11, Wellington Street, Strand, in the County of
Middlesex, Patent Agent, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Eighth day of January, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-four, in the
thirty-seventh year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and suc-
cessors, give and grant unto me, the said William Edward Gedge, Her
special licence that I, the said William Edward Gedge, my executors,
administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said William Edward
Gedge, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time
agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter
during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make,
use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain
and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for
"AN IMPROVED EMBROIDERING AND BRAIDING MACHINE," a communication to
me from abroad by Emile Cornely, of Paris, France, upon the condition
(amongst others) that I, the said William Edward Gedge, my executors
or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or
one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be
performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office
within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the
said Letters Patent.

page_text: entirely free, and has a collar turned on its upper face upon which a
cogged wheel D is fitted, this wheel being geared with another cogged
wheel E of an equal diameter. The shaft of the wheel E turns in, and
s supported by the casting F, which is also secured to the lower face of
the bed plate C, and a small bevil wheel G is secured to its lower end
and gears with another one H of the same diameter. The bevil wheel H
is secured to the sleeve I, in which the rod N vibrates, and which
operates the horizontal screw gear K of the looper B. By turning the
crank handle S, which serves to guide the feed of the machine, the
sleeve I will be turned by means of the gearing and 8, owing to the 1
sliding nut a, which is secured to the rod N, and which vibrates with
said rod within a slot of the sleeve I, and thus the wheels 8, r, H, G, E,
and D will be turned in combination with it and with the changing
direction of the feed.
On the upper face of the wheel D there is a vertical flange b, in which
a disk d is fitted, said disk being shewn in a plan at Fig. 3. It turns
with the wheel D, and its centre is in line with the needle e of the
machine, which during its operation passes through the central hole in
the disk d. At the side of said central hole a slanting rectangular
mortice h is made in the disk d, through which the braid f is passed as :
shown in red lines, said braid being wound upon the spool L, which is
placed upon the spool pin M, and which latter is secured to the wheel D,
and thus turns with the same when the crank handle S is turned by the
operator, the braid passing from the spool L through a hole in the
wheel D into the braiding guide h of the disk & and out of the same
under the cloth and the needle. Thus it will be seen that the braid as it
passes out of the braiding guide h is always presented to the action of
the needle in such a manner that the latter must stitch right in its
centre in any position or direction of the feed of the machine and thus
sew it on to the cloth; and inasmuch as the braid lies between the table
of the machine and the cloth, it results that the plain stitching and not
the embroidering chain stitch appears on the braid. This has also the
advantage that the cloth can be marked on the wrong or rough side,
and that no marks of the design will show on the right or braided
side.
To prevent the cloth from being disarranged in its position by the
friction of the turning disk d against the lower face of the cloth, I have
made the former conical near its center, so that the small circle within

page_text: which lies the mortise hand the central needle hole is raised above its.
surface, and that the said small surface only shall be in contact with
the cloth, and that only within the inner circumference of the circular
feeding surface of the feeder T, which must be a trifle larger than the
upper surface of its truncated cone.
The flat and lower part of the disk d is covered by means of one or
two sliding plates O, which are filled within the bed plate C, and
which are constructed similarly to those employed in shuttle sewing
machines; they can readily be withdrawn to remove the braiding disk
for the purpose of passing the braid through the guide h. The circular
feeding surface T of the machine thus bears upon said fixed plates O,
and is in no contact with the smaller raised surface of the braiding disk
d and with the braid which can turn within the same.
It is desirable that not only various sizes of braids, but also of needles,
might be employed for executing the different styles of work; for that
purpose
I have made the central conical part of the disk d in a separate
piece p, as shewn at Figs. 3 and 4, and which is secured to the lower
face of the disk d by means of a screw t or otherwise, and which can
thus easily be changed.
By having a small number of said parts with braiding guides and
central holes of the various sizes, each size can be easily attached
according to the work to be done.
The width of the mortise h can also be made adjustable by means of
two small levers m, which are secured to the lower face of the disk d by
means of screws o, and on which they can pivot, their longer ends extend
into the slot h, and a set screw u which is screwed into the edge of the
disk d enters in between the two short arms of the said levers, so that by
turning the screw u the long ends of the said levers can be spread or con-
tracted to widen or to reduce the size of the mortise h.
In using a round cording instead of a flat braid a round hole can be
made in the disk d instead of a mortise.
The mechanism above described is employed for doing the ordinary
braiding work, but by imparting to the braiding disk d an oscillating
motion around its centre, which will in no way impede its turning.
motion when acted upon by means of the crank handle S, I obtain a
fancy braiding or cording work of a zig-zag nature, which is made in

page_text: consequence of the braid or cord within the braiding disk being removed
after each stitch out of the course of the needle, so that the latter will
make alternately one stitch at its right side, the next at its left side, then
at the right, then at the left, and so on continuously, whereby I obtain a
braiding or cording work as represented at Fig. 8 (in which the red lines
represent the braid and the black lines the stitching) which is highly
ornamental, and which can be varied indefinitely by the employment of
various cords and threads. This oscillating motion of the braiding disk
d is obtained by means of the mechanism hereafter described and repre-
sented in Figs. 5, 6, and 7. The cogged wheel b¹ is secured to the main
shaft d¹ of the machine, and drives the cogged wheel d², which has
double the diameter of the former, and thus makes one revolution to
every two of the wheel b¹; it drives the connecting rod f¹ by means of
the crank pin g¹, and imparts to the rod F¹ and to the screw gear G¹ a
vertical reciprocating motion, and to the screw gear G² an, horizontal
oscillating motion on its axis; this same motion is imparted to the bevil
wheel P, which is secured to the same shaft Q as the screw gear G², and
which transmits its oscillating motion to the vertical shaft n to the
wheel R, and consequently to the cogged wheels E and D, and to the
braiding disk d.
It will be observed that this oscillating motion of the
braiding disk and of its mechanism is not communicated to the other
parts composing the stitching and feeding mechanism of the machine
which continue to work in the ordinary manner as the embroidering
machine, but for the proper execution of the work it is necessary that
while the braiding disk d makes its oscillating motion it as well as all
the other mechanisms may be turned easily by means of the crank
handle S, so as to work in harmony with the universal feed motion of
the machine; this I obtain by the following means:—
The lower part of the rod F¹ slides within the sleeve A¹ to which the
crank handle S is secured, and it can be turned by the said crank handle
on its pivot joint K² owing to the sliding nut q¹ which is secured to the
rod F¹, and which slides within a slot in the sleeve A¹. To the upper
end of said sleeve is secured the cogged wheel D¹ which drives another
wheel E¹ secured to the shaft K¹; from this latter shaft all the bevil
wheels 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, and I are operated which combine the move-
ments of the universal feed, and of the stitching apparatus when the
crank handle S is turned as described in the original Patent for the
Bonnaz embroidering machine, and I thus effect the oscillating motion

page_text: of the braiding disk while I can operate the entire mechanism of the
machine without any hindrance by means of the crank handle S.
If the machine is to execute the ordinary braiding or embroidering
work, the mechanism which oscillates the braiding disk d can be
uncoupled by shifting the crank pin g¹ into the central position or to the
dead point in the wheel d², so that the connecting rod f¹ and the rod F¹
do not operate, and by then shifting the wheel P away from the wheel R
by means of the clutch w, and by bringing the wheel H in gear with the
wheel G by means of the clutch y, and I thus stop the motion of the
oscillating apparatus.
I will now describe the said braiding apparatus when it is combined
with the overseaming and embroidering machine, the subject of Letters
Patent, No. 2395, of the Eleventh day of July 1873. The casting A,
rim b, wheels D and E, and braiding disk d are in every essential point the
same as above described and illustrated, their description need therefore
not be repeated, but the wheel E which drives the wheel D is arranged
somewhat differently. As appears by reference to Figs. 8, 9, and 10,
which illustrate the braiding apparatus when combined with the over-
seaming machine.
The peculiarity of the overseaming machine is that its feeder as well as
the needle and looper are turned nearly half a revolution after each
stitch. In combining my braiding apparatus with this machine it is
desirable that it should not participate in said motion in order that its
braid or cord should be guided in the centre line of the overseaming
stitch so as to come entirely within the same, and thus produce an
ornamental braiding which is enclosed within an overseaming embroidery
as represented at Fig. 11, where the thick blue line represents the braid
or cord, and the red lines the overseaming. Therefore while the essential
mechanical devices of the overseaming machine make the vibratory
motion above described, the wheels D and E and consequently the
braiding apparatus remains stationary, and I obtain this result by
gearing the wheel E directly from the shaft F" which operates the screw
gearing G and G³.
The vertical reciprocating motion of the shaft F¹ which is produced by
means of the wheel d², crank pin 9¹, and pitman f¹ operates the screw
gearing G¹ and G³, which after each stitch turn the looper, the needle,
and the feed surface of the machine nearly half a revolution, whereby

page_text: the overseaming stitch is produced. The casting Z which serves as
bearing to said screw gearing supports also the sleeve A¹, this latter.
having geared to it the crank handle S by which the feed of the machine
is guided. The shaft F¹ slides within the sleeve A¹ and is turned by
means of the handle S owing to the square nut q¹ which is secured to it
and slides within a slot of sleeve A¹.
In the upper part of the casting Z another sleeve Y is fitted through
which the shaft F¹ passes, and which can also be turned by handle S
owing to the square nut z being secured to the shaft F¹, and which also
glides within the slot in sleeve Y. Upon the latter is secured the
pinion U which drives the pinions V and W, both secured to shaft x,
thus also driving the wheels X and E and the braiding mechanism
which latter can thus be turned by means of the handle S in combination
with the feed of the machine.
It will be observed that the pinions U and V and consequently the
braiding apparatus do not participate in the vibrating movement of the
mechanism which produces the overseaming stitch, and consequently the
braid is laid within said stitch, the needle stitching alternately on each
side of it. Thus the same braiding mechanism serves to produce three
different styles of braiding.
1. When it works in combination with the mechanism of the
embroidering machine for ordinary braiding work.
2. When an oscillating movement is imparted to it while operating in
combination with the embroidering machine.
3. When it operates in combination with the vibrating motion of the
overseaming machine without participating in said vibrating motion.
Having now described and ascertained the nature of the Invention
communicated to me as aforesaid, and in what manner the same is or
may be performed, I would have it understood that I claim,―
Firstly. In combination with the universal feeding and stitching
mechanism of the Bonnaz embroidering machine, the braiding apparatus
consisting of disk d, wheel D, spool holder M, and spool L when
combined with the machine, substantially as herein-before described.
Secondly. In combination with the braiding disk d the adjustable
levers m for adjusting the width of the braiding guide.

page_text: Thirdly. In combination with the braiding disk d the removeable
centre piece p for employing various sizes of braiding guides and needle
holes.
Fourthly. The combination of the braiding mechanism herein described
with the apparatus which imparts to it an oscillating motion in which
the other mechanisms of the machine do not participate.
Fifthly. The combination of the braiding mechanism herein described
with the apparatus which imparts a vibrating motion to the stitching
and feeding mechanism of the embroidering machine without imparting
the same to the braiding apparatus so as to lay the braid within the zig-
zag or overseaming stitch.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Edward Gedge, have
hereunto set my hand and seal, this Fifteenth day of May, in
the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-
foun