Improvements relating to the Manufacture of Corsets.
Year: 1896

page_text: Date of Application, 8th Dec., 1896-Accepted, 17th July, 1897
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements relating to the Manufacture of Corsets.
I, EDUARD KOHNBERGER, of 23 Schottenring, Vienna I, in the Empire of Austria,
Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement:-
My invention relates to a method of providing corsets, which are made entirely
of an inelastic material, in their manufacture with an elastic inserted part designed
to render clastic the desired places, particularly the waist.portion, so that the corset
will adapt itself exactly to the figure, but cannot exert a strong injurious pressure
upon the more delicate parts of the body.
This method substantially consists in placing upon a length of fabric coated with
au adhesive substance, for instance a solution of indiarubber, at the places to be
rendered elastic, especially the strip, constituting the waist portion, a number of
india rubber threads, bands or strings in the state of tension, next placing at suit-
able places, that is to say at the desired distance from each other, the whalebones,
stiffening ribs and springs, and then putting on a covering material coated on its
under side with an adhesive material, thereupon uniting the two lengths of material.
together with the intermediate indiarubber threads or strings and stiffening ribs
with each other and with the inserted, parts..
At the places where the rubber threads bands or strings were arranged in the
state of tension, the material when no longer stretched is contracted, and this por-
tion of the material forms the elastic places or the elastic waist portion of the
corset.
In order to securely hold the whalebones, stiffening ribs and springs in their
proper position it is expedient to connect with each other the lengths of material,
pasted one upon the other, along the edges of these, whalebones, stiffening ribs and
springs by means of seams.
These corsets may be made either entirely of double material or only at those
places which are to be rendered elastic; in the latter case the double material
is united at these elastic places by the adhesive substance, whilst in the former
case the two lengths of material are either connected with each other only at the
elastic places by pasting them together or they can be pasted together over their
whole extent as described..
With the object of keeping in their place such parts of the whalebones, stiffen-
ing ribs or springs as extend to the parts of the material which are not coated with
adhesive substance, and therefore lie loosely one upon the other, the upper and
lower materials or fabrics are connected with each other by stitching along the
edges of these stiffening ribs, or the said stiffening ribs are held in place by means
of separate strips of covering material placed over the stiffening portions and fixed
to the material in the well-known manner by stitching. The whalebones, stiffen-
ing ribs or springs, instead of being 'pasted between the two lengths of material,
mav however also be arranged on one of the outer sides.
In order that the corsets cut from materials of the before mentioned kind may

page_text: not become too thick at the places at which the front busk (breast) and the rear
busk have to be provided, thereby exerting an injurious pressure upon the body,
it is advantageous to arrange the busk between the two lengths of material con-
nected with each other by pasting if desired only at certain points. For enabling
this to be effected the connection of the two materials lying one upon the other
is severed by dissolving the adhesive substanco at the corresponding places, benzene
being applied to these places, and the two lengths of material being then separated
from each other. By this means the rubber threads, bands, or strings will also
he separated from the two lengths of material and will be drawn back as far as the
adhesive substance was dissolved, so that a perfectly free cavity is formed for
sowing the breast busk or the rear. busk between the two inelastic lengths of
material.
I may also cut away the lower material at, this place and use the covering
material for enclosing the busk, or the material designed for enclosing the said
husk as well as the two portions of materials or fabrics intended for enclosing the
rods which are inserted at the rear edges of the corset for lacing purposes can be
sewed on separately, because at these points were the elastic threads are omitted
it will not be necessary to coat the material so that it is preferable to make use
of material which has not been coated.
Any inserting pieces (so-called gussets) which may be required, that is to say
hoth elastic and inelastic gussets may be provided by cutting the material at the
proper places and by sewing or pasting in suitably cut inserting pieces.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said in-
vention and in what manner the same is to he performed, I declare that what I
claim is:
First. A method of manufacturing materials for corsets of inelastic material
with elastic places, more especially an elastic waist portion, which consists in placing
between two inclastic fabrics, coated with an adhesive substance at the places
corresponding to these portions to be rendered elastic or the waist portion, india-
rubber threads, hands or strings in the state of tension, and at the proper places
the whalebones, stiffening ribs and springs, and then uniting the two lengths of
material with each other and with the indiarubber threads, hands or strings laid
hetween the same and also with the whalebones, stiffening ribs and springs.
Second. In the method set forth in the first claim the modification which con-
sists in coating and pasting together the double material (covering and lower
material) with an adhesive substance only at those places where the elastic threads
or strings are put in.
Third. In the method set forth in the first claim the modification which consists
in arranging covering material only at those places where the elastic threads or
strings are put in, so that the remainder of the corset material consists only of one
fabric.
Fourth. In the method set forth in the first claim the modification which con-
sists in arranging the whalebones, stiffening ribs and springs on one of the outer
sides of the material.
Fifth. As new industrial products, corsets or bodices of inelastic material with
elastic places, particularly an elastic waist portion, which are made of the material
produced according to the said method...
. ,n” ·
D
$1000
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.
45 Southampton Buildings, London, W.C., Agents for the Applicant.