CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN THE TREATMENT OR PREPARATION OF YARNS OR THREADS FOR WEAVING
Year: 1850

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, THEODORE
CARTALI, of Manchester, in the County of Lancaster, Merchant, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date at
Westminster, the Fourth day of June, in the thirteenth year of Her reign,
and in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty, did, for
Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the said Theodore
Cartali, Her especial licence, full power, sole privilege and authority, that I,
the said Theodore Cartali, my exors, admors; and assigns, and such others as.
I, the said Theodore Cartali, my exors, adiñiors, or assigns, should at any time
agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times during the term
of years therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within England and Wales and the Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, an In-
vention of "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN THE TREATMENT OR PREPARATION OF YARNS
OR THREADS FOR WEAVING," which Invention having been communicated to me
by a Foreigner residing abroad; in which said Letters Patent is contained a
proviso that I, the said Theodore Cartali, shall cause a particular description
of the nature of this Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, to be enrolled in Her Majesty's High Court of Chancery within six
calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said in part
recited Letters Patent, as in and by the same, reference being thereunto had,
will more fulty and at large appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said
Theodore Cartali, do hereby declare that the nature of the said Invention, and

page_text: the manner in which the same is to be performed, is particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following explanation thereof (that is to say):-
This Invention of Improvements in the Preparation of Yarns or Threads for
Weaving consists in submitting them to an extra twisting operation after they
have been produced in the ordinary manner by the mule, throstle, or other
machine commonly used for such purpose, the object being to give to the yarns
or threads such an amount of twist as will give them a tendency, when
woven either as weft or warp into a fabric, to snarl up by the application of
moisture, and by such tendency necessarily contract the surface of the fabric,
and give it a pleated and puckered appearance. The machinery used for so pre-
paring yarns or threads may be of many ordinary constructions, and the order
of proceeding somewhat varied: I will, however, point out the course of opera-
tion which is preferred, and also some modifications thereof. The cops of
yarn or thread to be prepared are taken, I will now suppose, from the mule ;
they are then bleached by any of the ordinary methods and placed upon the
creel of a machine precisely similar to that used for the process of doubling,
and are passed through a trough of water before they leave the delivery
rollers; in this moist state the yarns or threads have the extra twist put into
them by the action of the flyer, and are wound upon the ordinary bobbins ;
from this state they may be converted into hanks or any of the usual forms of
arranging yarns, the additional twist afforded them by the improved process
being latent, or nearly so, and when woven (by any ordinary machinery for
that purpose) there is little difference in the appearance of the cloth compared
with that of the present manufacture as long as the fabric remains dry; upon
the application, however, of moisture in the process of washing, the yarns
which have undergone the improved preparation or treatment contract in length,
and, by drawing with them those with which they are interwoven, dispose
the face of the cloth in a wrinkled or pleated form. The amount of addi-
tional twist given may of course be varied according to the amount of contract-
ing power required, and may be regulated by the relative speeds of the rollers
and flyers, as is well understood. Instead of treating the yarns or threads so
as to cause them (previously to the extra operation of twisting) to pass through
water, they may be conveyed through a jet of steam, or both may be dispensed
with, and they may be prepared in a dry state; in which case, however, the
extra twist imparted to them will not be so latent, but the fabric which they
wholly or in part constitute will contract in some measure on its removal from
the loom. The use of moisture, however, is preferred, and it will be evident
that this may be applied to them in a variety of ways, either by saturating the
cop or bobbin in the whole or by wetting the yarns or threads as they pass

page_text: through the machine. I have mentioned the yarns or threads as being bleached
before they undergo the improved preparation; if desired, however, they may
be so treated when in the grey state, but in such case it is preferred not to
bleach the material until it is woven, as the action of such process is liable to
cause the yarn to curl up so as to prevent its easy application to the loom.
When throstle spun yarn is used for the improved preparation it may be
wound from the bobbins into a suitable form. for being bleached, and then
treated as described, or may receive the additional twist in a grey state and be
bleached in the cloth.
Having thus described and ascertained the nature of the said Invention, and
the manner in which the same is to be performed, I wish it to be understood
that I do not intend to confine myself to the use of any particular arrangement
of machinery for effecting the desired object, as there are many arrangements
well understood which will answer the purpose equally well; but that which I
claim is, submitting yarns or threads to an additional operation of twisting after
they have been manufactured by the "mule," "throstle," or other spinning
machine.
In witness whereof, I, the said Theodore Cartali, have hereunto set my