IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF CHAINS, BRACELETS
Year: 1865

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Pièrre Mathurin Charles Béziel, of No. 82,
Boulevard Sébastopol, Paris, in the Empire of France, Jeweller, for the
Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF CHAINS, BRACELETS,
Sealed the 2nd January 1866, and dated the 7th July 1865.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Pièrre Mathurin Charles
Béziel at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition,
on the 7th July 1865.
I, PIERRE MATHURIN CHARLES BÉZIEL, of No. 82, Boulevard Sébastopol,
Paris, in the Empire of France, Jeweller, do hereby declare the nature of the
said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF CHAINS, BRACELETS,
NECKLACES, AND OTHER ARTICLES OF JEWELRY," to be as follows:-
My present Invention has for its object certain improvements in the manu-
facture of chains, bracelets, necklaces, and other articles of jewelry; it may
also be applied with advantage in all cases where delicate metal ornaments
are required, this will be readily understood from the following description of
my mode of proceeding.
Having engraved a suitable design in two hollow dies or moulds corre-
sponding one with the other, I take a sheet of copper and place it between two
sheets of gold, whose thickness, as also that of the copper, is determined by

page_text: the nature of the article of which it is to form part; the three sheets thus
arranged are placed between the. dies, to which pressure is gradually applied
until they meet; the piece which is thus formed is withdrawn, and the rough
edge smoothed down by suitable instruments until it has attained a sufficient
degree of finish. I must here observe that when chains, bracelets, necklaces,
or similar articles are to be manufactured the design must be of such a nature
as will admit of the piece or link formed in the moulds being readily and
elegantly joined by solder or otherwise to a similar piece; when the article is
so completed the chain, or whatever it may be, is subjected to a nitric acid
bath, which dissolves out the copper, leaving the gold intact. In some cases
it may be desirable to have a half design, by this I mean one uncompleted by
its fellow; in such a case I make use of one sheet of gold and one of copper,
treating them, however, as before, except that one die only is sunk, the only
difference being in one case the mould has a solid appearance, in the other
the model is in relief only on one side. The chief feature of my Invention
therefore consists in forming by pressure in suitable dies the links, leaves, or
other models suitable for manufacture into chains, bracelets, and all such
similar articles, whether for the person or not.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance. of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Piérre Mathurin Charles Béziel in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 6th January 1866.
'TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, PIERRE
MATHURIN CHARLES BÉZIEL, of No: 82, Boulevard Sébastopol, Paris, in the
Empire of France, Jeweller, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Seventh day of July, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and sixty-five, in the twenty-ninth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me,
the said Pierre Mathurin Charles Béziel, Her special licence that I;
the said Pierre Mathurin Charles Béziel, my executors, administrators,
and assigns, or such others as I, the said Piérre Mathurin Charles
Beziel, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during
the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make; use, exercise;
and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the
Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN

page_text: THE MANUFACTURE OF CHAINS, BRACELETS, NECKLACES, AND OTHER ARTICLES OF
JEWELRY," upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said Piérre Mathurin.
Charles Béziel, my executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing
under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly
describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner
the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great
Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the
date of the said Letters Patent.
'
NOW KNOW YE; that I, the said Piérro Mathurin Charles Beziel,.
do hereby declare the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner,
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement and accompanying Drawings, that is to
say:
My present Invention has for its object certain improvements in the manu-
facture of chains, bracelets, necklaces, and other articles of jewelry; it may
also be applied with advantage in all cases where delicate metal ornaments
are required; this will readily be understood from the following description of:
my mode of proceeding.
Having engraved a suitable design in two hollow dies or moulds corre--
sponding one with the other, I take a sheet of copper and place it between
two sheets of gold, whose thickness, as also that of the copper, is determined,
by the nature of the article of which it is to form part, the three sheets thus
arranged are placed between the dies, to which pressure is gradually applied.
until they meet; the piece which is thus formed is withdrawn, and the rough
edge smoothed down by suitable instruments until it has attained a sufficient
degree of finish. I must here observe that when chains, bracelets, necklaces,
or similar articles are to be manufactured, the design must be of such a
nature as will admit of the piece or link formed in the moulds being readily.
and elegantly joined by solder or otherwise to a similar piece; when the article
is so completed the chain, or whatever it may be, is subjected to a nitric acid:
bath, which dissolves out the copper, leaving the gold intact. In some
cases it may be desirable to have a half design, by this I mean one uncoin-
pleted by its fellow; in such a case I make use of one sheet of gold and one
of copper, treating them, however, as before, except that one die only is sunk,.
the only difference being in one case the model has a solid appearance, in the
other the model is in relief only on one side. The cheaf feature of my Inven-
tion therefore consists in forming by pressure in suitable dies the links, leaves;
or other models suitable for manufacture into chains, bracelets, and all such
similar articles, whether for the person or not.

page_text: The accompanying Drawings are intended to illustrate a variety of designs
formed of different moulds, which may vary to any extent. -
Figs. 1, 2, and 3, represent three different designs formed of the pieces a
and b, which have been produced in the manner already described. Fig. 1
being formed by interlacing the links with other similar parts; the second
piece b, together with that of a, forms the Fig. 2; the parts marked b¹ pass
through holes made in the links a¹ of the piece a, so as to be riveted to another
similar piece, and so on until a sufficient length of chain is formed. Fig. 3
is composed of the piece a, the loups or links of which a' are so arranged as
to receive each a branch 6 of the piece b.
Figs. 4, 5, 6, and 7 represent ornaments formed of the three designs, c, d,
and e, which are interlaced as in Fig. 1, with the exception of Fig. 6, which is
linked by cutting the ends of the loups marked e', and then soldering them.
Fig. 8 is formed of the design f in round wire; and is linked much in the same
way as the preceding; Figs. 9 and 10 are composed of the piece 9, the sides of
which, g', may be solid, in Fig. 9 they are secured by an interior ring or
chain, to which each loup is soldered, in Fig. 10 they are interlaced as already
mentioned; Fig. 11 is made of the piece h, and forming a serpent pattern.
Figs. 12 & 13 consist of the same pieces c and e, those of Fig. 18 are
secured by a barret having four branches, and those of Fig. 12 are connected
by an interior chain, to which each loup or link is soldered, the same occurs
in Figs. 14 & 15; Figs. 16 & 17 are composed of two elements h and i
which form in Fig. 16 the outer branches, these are soldered to a ring inside;
Fig. 17 is the same as the preceding Figure, but minus the branches; several
designs can be produced with this piece. Fig. 18 is formed of the piece j;
Fig. 19 of the piece K; Fig. 20 of the piece 1; Fig. 21 of that of m; Figs. 22
and 23 of that of n; in Fig. 22 the parts are simply linked together, whilst in
Fig. 23 they are soldered to a barret; Figs. 24 and 25 are composed, the
first of the piece o, and the latter with the element p, the branches of which
are bent down and passed through the loups and then soldered; Fig. 26 is
made of the piece'q; Figs. 27 and 28 of the same piece r, but in the first it
is employed single, and in the latter double; Figs. 29 and 30 consist of the
pieces s and t, and only differ from Fig. 27 in a modification of form; Fig. 31
is composed of the piece u; Fig. 32 of that of v; Figs. 33 and 34 of that
of a, in the former the leaves are flat, and in the latter rounded; Fig. 35
consists of the element y; Fig. 36 of that of ; Fig. 37 of that of A; Fig. 88
of that of B; Fig. 39 of the pieces C and D ; Figs. 40, 41, and 42 are
several designs which can be formed in this mode of manufacture. In some
cases, and for a particular class of ornament, I. make use of copper wire in

page_text: place of the sheet of copper before alluded to; this I cover with gold leaf, the
copper being employed simply to give sufficient solidity to admit of the gold
leaf bearing the pressure to which it is subjected between the moulds,' as
explained herein-before, and the wire may be either, square, round, oval, or
flat, and indeed any form to suit the purpose and ornament to be manufac-
tured therefrom, and the copper may be either retained in its casing of gold
or be dissolved out by nitric acid, in this latter case small holes are made in
the gold casing to allow of its reaching to the copper. Figs. 43, 44, 45, 46,
and 47, represent several ornaments made in this manner.
The few examples illustrated give but a faint idea of what can be done in
this novel system of manufacture, as the designs can vary to infinity. I must
here observe that I do not confine myself to the precise mode of coupling,
connecting, or joining the several parts where necessary, and which must of
necessity vary to suit the several designs so that the jointure may be effected
in the most suitable and elegant manner.
Having thus described my Invention, what I claim and desire to secure
by Letters Patent is, the peculiar mode of forming by pressure in suitable
dies and moulds the links, leaves, or other models in the manner herein-before
mentioned.
In witness whereof, I, the said Piérre Mathurin Charles Béziel, have
hereunto set my hand and seal, this Fifth day of January, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-six.
25
Witness,
E. HEBRE,
PIERRE MATHURIN CHARLES BEZIEL. (L.S.)
82, Boulevart Sébastopol,
Paris.