Year: 1885

page_text: I GEORGE THOMAS HAWKINS, of 19 Shakspeare Road, Northampton in the
county of Northampton, Boot and Shoe Manufacturer do hereby declare the
nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of boots and shoes
the improvements having for object to provide a machine made boot which shall
have the appearance and advantages of a hand made welted boot the cost of
production being less than an ordinary machine made welted boot.
In carrying out my invention I first last or brace the upper to the insole in the
ordinary manner, I then sew on by hand or by machine a small welt from the
joint of the fore part to the seat of the heel to form the welt for the waist. I then
screw or rivet a middle sole to the fore part of the boot so as to form a continuation
of the waist welt. The outer sole is then stitched on from the seat of the heel all
round; the heel is then built up and the boot finished in the usual manner.
In order to avoid the tingles, heel pins or nails projecting through the inner sole
at the heel part I find it advantagous to split the inner sole at the heel turning
up the grain portion until the boot is finished, when it is turned down so as to
cover the grindery and suitably secured.

page_text: I GEORGE THOMAS HAWKINS, of 19 Shakspeare Road, Northampton, in the
county of Northampton, Boot and Shoe Manufacturer do bereby declare the
nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of boots and shoes
the improvements having for object to provide a machine-made boot which shall
have the appearance and advantages of a hand-made welted boot the cost of
production being less than an ordinary machine-made welted boot.
In carrying out my invention I first last or brace the upper to the insole in the
ordinary manner; I then sew on by hand or by machine a small welt from the
joint of the fore part to the seat of the heel to form the welt for the waist. I then
screw or rivet a middle sole to the fore part of the boot so as to form a continuation
of the waist welt. The outer sole is then stitched on from the seat of the heel all
round; the heel is then built up and the boot finished in the usual manner.
In order to avoid the tingles, heel pins or nails projecting through the inner sole
at the heel part I find it advantageous to split the inner sole at the heel turning
up the grain portion until the boot is finished, when it is turned down so as to
cover the grindery and suitably secured.
In order to enable my invention to be fully understood I will proceed to describe
the same by reference to the accompanying drawing in which figure 1 represents
a side elevation partly in section of a boot manufactured according to my invention
the outer sole and heel being shewn in dotted lines for the sake of clearness;
figure 2 is a plan shewing the underside of the boot, half of the outer sole and heel
being removed; figure 3 is a cross section on line A, B, of figure 2. Similar letters
in all the figures represent similar parts.
a, is the upper of the boot and b, the insole to which the upper a, is first lasted
or braced in the ordinary manner all round except the waist portion; c, is the
small welt which I then sew on to the waist portion by hand or by machine the
said welt extending from the joint of the fore part of the middle sole d, to the seat
of the heel e, shewn in dotted lines in figure 1; f, f, represent the stitches which
secure the welt c, to the upper a, and insole b, the said stitches preferably passing
obliquely through the welt and upper and partly through the insole as shewn in
figure 3, by the process known as hand-sewing; g, g, represent the screws (or
rivets) by which the middle sole d, (which is shewn in the drawing separate from
the welt c, but which may be in one piece therewith) is then secured to the fore
part of the boot so as to form a continuation of the waist welt c; h, figure 2,
represents the outer sole (shewn also in dotted lines in figure 1,) which is then
stitched on by hand or machine or both. combined from the seat of the heel e, all
round as shewn in the lower half of figure 2 the dotted lines marked i, i,
representing the stitches; the heel e, is then built up and the boot finished in the
usual manner; 61, figure 1 represents the portion of the inner sole b, which I find
it advantageous to split and turn up until the heel has been attached to the boot,

page_text: so as to avoid the tingles, heel pins or nails projecting through the inner sole at
the heel part, the portion 6¹, being then turned down so as to cover the grindery
and suitably secured as hereinbefore described.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is:-
1. The manufacture and use of boots and shoes having a hand or machine sewn
welt at the waist portion thereof in combination with a screwed or rivetted middle
sole or fore part and an outer sole stitched all round substantially as and for the
purposes hereinbefore described and illustrated in the accompanying drawing.
2. Splitting the inner sole of a boot or shoe at the heel part substantially as
and for the purpose herein before described and illustrated in figure 1 of the
accompanying drawing.
3. The improved boot hereinbefore described and represented in the accompanying
drawing.