IMPROVEMENT OR IMPROVEMENTS IN BUTTONS FOR. GARMENTS OR OTHER PURPOSES
Year: 1861

page_text: Henry Jonnson, or 47, Lincoln's Inn Fields,
. in the County of Middlesex, and of 166, Buchanan Street, in the City
of Glasgow, North Britain, Centleman, for the Invention of
IMPROVEMENT OR IMPROVEMENTS IN BUTTONS FOR. GARMENTS OR OTHER
PURPOSES." A communication from abroad by George Meacham, of the
-
City of New York, in the United States of America, Merchant.
IMPROVEMENT OR IMPROVEMENTS IN BUTTONS FOR. GARMENTS OR OTHER
PURPOSES." A communication from abroad by George Meacham, of the
City of New York, in the United States of America, Merchant.
ealed the 19th September 1861, and dated the 7th May 1861.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Jolin Henry Johnson at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
7th May 1861.
I, JOHN HENRY JOHNSON, of 47, Lincoln's Inn Fields, in the County of
Middlesex, and of 166, Buchanan Street, in the City of Glasgow, North
Britain, Gentleman, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for
"AN IMPROVEMENT OR IMPROVEMENTS IN BUTTONS FOR GARMENTS OR OTHER
PURPOSES," a communication from abroad by George Meacham, of the City of
New York, in the United States of America, Merchant,, to be as follows,
that is to say:-
This Invention consists in forming the button proper and the shank, stud,
eye, or fastening in separate and distinct parts, so that the button is at liberty
to revolve on and assume various angular positions relatively to the shank,
stud, eye, or fastening, whereby the said fastening is not so liable to become

page_text: loosened from the garment, the garment is easier buttoned, and there is less
wear on the button-hole.
This Invention also consists in certain modes of forming the button and
shank, stud, eye, or fastening, whereby the shank, stud, eye, or fastening may
be firmly secured to the garment, and the button afterwards placed thereon in
a permanent manner, but still leaving the button at liberty to rotate or assume
various angular positions relatively to the said shank, stud, eye, or fastening.
The shank of this improved button is constructed with an enlarged head or
equivalent enlarged end, and with a screw, washers, and nuts, or other suitable
means, whereby may be screwed, rivitted, or otherwise fastened to the
garment in a permanent manner.
The said improved button is constructed in different ways, one of which is
with a hole in the centre a little larger than the neck of the shank, but
smaller than the head thereof, so that when the shank is passed through the
said hole and attached to the garment, the button cannot be removed, but may
turn n various directions on the shank.
Another mode is to form the back with raised edges and with a hole in the
centre, the same as above described, and with a face of a plain or ornamental
character capable of being inserted, screwed, or otherwise fastened within or
upon the rim formed by the said raised edges. In this form the back should
be attached to the garment by means of the shank, as above described, and the
face afterwards placed in the proper position, leaving between it and the back
room for the head of the shank, so that the button when together shall be free
to rotate and rock on the shank.
Another form is to permanently fasten the back and face together, leaving
a sufficient space between for the head of the shank, and with a slot in the
back for entering the said head and moving it to the proper position, when it
will be fixed by a revolving key or other suitable means to prevent it from
being removed, but still permitting it to maintain the peculiarity of my Inven-
tion, viz., the ability to turn and rock on the shank without affecting the
position of the latter relatively to the cloth or garment.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said John Henry Johnson in the. Great Seal Patent Office on the
7th November 1861.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE FRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JOHN 8
HENRY JOHNSON, of 47, Lincoln's Inn Fields, in the County of Middlesex,

page_text: and of 166, Buchanan Street, in the City of Glasgow, North Britain, Gen-
tleman, send greeting.
:
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters.
Patent, bearing date the Seventh day of May, in the year of our Lord One.
thousand eight hundred and sixty-one, in the twenty-fourth year of Her reign,
did; for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the said,
John Henry Johnson, Her special license that I, the said John Henry.
Johnson, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I,.
the said John Henry Johnson, my executors, administrators, or assigns..
should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at
all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully,
might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for.
"AN IMPROVEMENT OR IMPROVEMENTS IN BUTTONS FOR GARMENTS OR OTHER
PURPOSES," a communication from abroad by George Meacham, of the City
of New York, in the United States of America, Merchant, upon the condition
(amongst others) that I, the said John Henry Johnson, my executors or
administrators, by an instrument in writing under my hand and seal, or under
the hand and seal of one of them, should particularly describe and ascertain
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be
performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office
within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said
Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said John Henry Johnson, do hereby declare
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement, reference being had to the accompanying Drawings, and to the
letters and figures marked thereon, that is to say :-
The said Invention consists in forming the button, proper and the shank,
stud; eye; or fastening in separate and distinct parts, so that the button is at
liberty to revolve on and assume various angular positions relatively to the
shank, stud, eye, or fastening, whereby the said fastening is not so liable to
become loosened from the garment, the garment is more easily buttoned, and
there is less wear on the button-hole.
This Invention also consists in certain modes of forming the button and
shank, stud, eye, or fastening, whereby the shank, stud, eye, or fastening may
be firmly secured to the garment, and the button afterwards placed thereon in
a permanent manner, but still leaving the button at liberty to rotate or assume
various angular positions relatively to the said shank, stud, eye, or fastening.

page_text: The shank of this improved button is constructed with an enlarged head or
equivalent enlarged end, and with a screw, washers, and nuts, or other suitable
means, whereby it may be screwed, rivetted, or otherwise fastened to the
garment in a permanent manner.
.
The said improved button is constructed in different ways, one of which is
with a hole in the centre a little larger than the neck of the shank, but
smaller than the head thereof, so that when the shank is passed through
the said hole and attached to the garment, the button cannot be removed, but
may turn in various directions on the shank.
Another mode is to form the back with raised edges and with a hole in the
centre, the same as above described, and with the face of a plain or ornamental
character capable of being inserted, screwed, or otherwise fastened within or
upon the rim formed by the said raised edges. In this form the back should
be attached to the garment by means of the shank, as above described, and the
face afterwards placed in the proper position, leaving between it and the back
room for the head of the shank, so that the button when together shall be free
to rotate and rock on the shank.
Another form is to permanently fasten the back and face together, leaving
à sufficient space between for the head of the shank, and with a slot in the
back for entering the said head and moving it to the proper position, when it
will be fixed by a revolving or moveable key or slotted plate, or other suitable
means to prevent it from being removed, but still permitting it to maintain the
peculiarity of my Invention, viz., the ability to turn and rock on the shank
without affecting the position of the latter relatively to the cloth or garment.
And in order that the said Invention may be fully understood, I shall now
proceed more particularly to describe the same, and for that purpose I shall
'refer to the several Figures on the Sheet of Drawings hereunto annexed,
the same letters of reference indicating corresponding parts throughout all the
corresponding Figures.
.
Figures 1 to 6 inclusive of the Drawings represent three several styles of
pant or suspender buttons made according to this Invention. In Figures. 1
and 2, A is a headed shank, having a screw at its lower end; and attached to
the cloth by a nut B and collet C, as represented; D is the button proper,
having a hole in the centre made to fit the head and neck of the shank A, so
as to be free to rotate, and to tip to a slight extent thereon. In Figure 3, the
shank A is made hollow with a female screw, and a male screw E is passed
: up from beneath to secure it to the cloth. The bottom of this shank is formed
with teeth, as shewn in Figure 4, by which the action of the button in rotating
is prevented from unscrewing the fastening.

page_text: In Figures 5 and 6 the button is composed of a front F and back plate G,
formed and united in the usual manner, but with a hole in the centre of both,
as shewn. In this hole, and enclosed between F and G, a solid centre piece
or shank H is placed, so as to be free to rotate relatively to the plates F and G,
but inseparable therefrom. Four holes are made in this centre piece similar
to those in ordinary pant or suspender buttons, by which to sew it to the
garment, and when thus attached the rim F, G, rotates upon H, without
causing any twisting strain upon the threads by which it is fastened.
Figures 7 and 8 are a vertical section and a plan from below of a "face"
or "covered button," with a cloth or flexible eye made according to this
Invention. A is the face plate; B, the back; and D, the packing of the
button; all these parts being constructed in the usual manner, except that Dis
hollowed at the back, as represented. The back B has a hole in the centre
for the eye; and I prepare a hollow ring of metal E with a flange e, fitted to
project through the hole in B, as represented. The flexible eye M is laid
within this ring E, and the edges of the same folded over so as to confine it
firmly therein. The ring E with its eye is placed within the back plate B
before the button is closed up, and the packing D recessed, so as to give it
room to turn easily after the button is finished. When M is sewed to the
garment any tendency to turn the button causes the main body to slip around
on the ring E, and all twisting strain upon M and its fastening is prevented.
The flange e protects M from abrasion against the edge of B, and holds E in
position. Several forms might be given to the part E instead of the annular,
as represented, without impairing the action of the button; and in certain
styles M might be placed upon a globe or oblate spheroid larger than the hole
in B, with nearly the same effect.
Figures 9 and 10 represent another style of face or covered button, in
which a perforated metal eye is employed in lieu of the cloth eye, shewn in
Figures 7 and 8. The face plate A is made the same as in ordinary buttons.
The back plate B is similar to that used in ordinary clothed-eyed buttons,
except that à flange b'is raised around the edge of the hole for the eye. The
eye C is struck up out of sheet metal into a semi-spherical form, or approach-
ing that form with perforations, as represented, through which to pass the
needle in sewing the button to the garment; this edge of C is turned over to
embrace the flange on B, and hold it in place, but so as to allow of B and Ċ
being readily rotated relatively to each other, and the packing D is hollowed
out sufficiently to allow of such motion. In striking up the part C, the
portions between the perforations may be rounded in the form shewn in
Figure 9, so as the better to fit the thread, and prevent the corners from cutting

page_text: it. There is a less liability of cutting the thread than if the piece C were fast
to the button, as no twisting strain can be exerted upon the fastening, owing to
the fact that the button turns freely upon C.
Figures 11 and 12 are similar to Figure 10, and shew other forms of
connecting the parts C and B, to avoid the necessity of recessing the packing D
The peculiarity of each is plainly shewn in the Figures. . The way in which the
edge of the hole in B is turned in Figure 9 tends to prevent the edge of B
from abraiding the thread used for fastening C to the garment when the
button is rotated.
Figures 13, 14, 15, and 16 represent another style of face button, in which
the stud or fastening may be firmly rivetted or screwed to the garment inde-
'pendently of the button proper, the latter being subsequently attached, thereto
in such a manner as to allow of its turning freely on the fastening, and also
'allow of different buttons being attached to the same fastening, if desired.
The main peculiarity in the construction of this button is in the employment
of a moveable key or locking piece within the button, in connection with and
'arranged relatively to an opening in the back of the button, so that the head
of the stud or shank may be placed in the said opening after the stud has
been fixed to the garment, and may be securely fastened therein, by which
arrangement, whilst the button is at liberty to rotate upon the stud, and to be
rocked to a limited extent thereon, it cannot be removed without unlocking or
'destroying it. D is a headed shank, and H is a collet fitted thereto; I is a
nut or washer. The cloth G is placed between the washer or nut I.and the
'collet H, and by screwing or rivetting the shank D to the washer I, the whole
is firmly attached to the garment, as represented. A is the face of the button
proper, and B the back firmly attached one to the other, and leaving a space
in the interior as represented. The back B is pierced with an opening M, m,
of such form that the head of the stud D may be inserted in the larger part
M, and then be moved to the smaller part m at the centre of the back of the
'button. Within the space between the back B and face A is placed a disc C,
which is free to rotate relatively to the button, and is pierced with an opening
"N, n, corresponding to M, m. A slot S in the back B allows the inserting of
any suitable instrument for the purpose of turning C relatively to B. To
attach this button to a garment, shank D is first firmly fixed to the cloth of
the garment G. The head d of the shank D is larger than the smaller
portions m, n, of the openings in B and C, and smaller than the larger
'portions M, N, of the same. When, therefore, the openings M and N
coincide, as shewn in Figure 14, the head of D is inserted through both, and
then slid into the part m, n, of the said openings, which correspond with the

page_text: centre of the button. Now, by inserting an instrument in the slot S, the
piece C is turned into the position shewn in Figure 16, completely locking.
the shank D to the button so that it cannot be removed therefrom, though
it is free to rotate therein. To prevent any possibility of the piece C becoming
turned back to its original position, so as to release the stud D, one or more
indentations E are made with a sharp-pointed instrument in the back B and.
centre piece C, which locks the parts C and B together, so that C is no longer
capable of being turned relatively to B; this prevents D from being subse-
quently removed without first destroying the button. By constructing the
stud D so as to be fixed to the garment separately from the button, it may be
screwed or rivetted firmly thereto. without injuring the face of the button.
The garment may be finished and pressed before putting on the buttons, which
are therefore out of the way while pressing, and when for any reason it is
desired to change the button, the face or head A, B, C, may be broken and
removed, and any desired style of button attached to the stud D without
removing the latter from the cloth, or interfering in any manner with its
attachments thereto. Ordinary buttons cannot be replaced after a coat is
finished, without either sewing through the lining, and in some instances
lining and pockets, or ripping open and resewing a large portion of the
garment.
The remaining Figures represent four several styles of face buttons, in
which the back is firmly rivetted to the garment so as to be free, to, turn and
rock upon its fastening, and the face of any desired form subsequently added:
In all these Figures the back and fastening are, similar, the difference lying
in the style of the face.
Figure 17 represents a military button. The back A is made with a hole
in the centre, by which it is secured to the cloth B by a rivet or screw C, and
is free to rotate or assume various' angular positions thereon similarly to the
buttons previously described. The edge of the back is turned up into a
flange with a thread cut on the exterior, as represented. The face is struck
out of metal, and has a thread on the interior to correspond, with the
thread on A. After the back is properly riveted to the garment the face D
is screwed thereon, and as the back is free to rotate with D in the process of
buttoning or unbuttoning, there is no tendency of the parts to become
separated by use; should it; however, become, advisable or desirable, to change
the style of the button, or to renew a damaged face; it can be removed by
lolding the back firmly,, and unscrewing the face therefrom, after which
another may be substituted.
.:

page_text: Figure 18 is similar to Figure 17, except that it has.a plane face in place
of an oval or raised one. :
:
Figure 19 shews a similar button covered with cloth, which is put around
the face plate, and a piece of cardboard Ę placed thereon to hold it.in
position. The whole is then screwed on the back A, as shewn, and forms a
covered button of an approved shape, having all the advantages of the button
previously described..
>
Figure 20.shews another style of a covered button, the covered face of
which is pressed within the projecting flanges of the back.after the latter is
riveted or otherwise fastened to the garment, the edge of the back forming an
ornamental band around the circumference..
Other styles may suggest themselves in practice; different faces, may be
furnished with the same back, and can be changed with little trouble at the
wish of the wearer.
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of the said
Invention, and the manner in which the same is or may be used or carried
into effect, I would observe, in conclusion, that what. I consider to be novel
and original, and therefore claim as the Invention secured to me by the herein.
before in part recited Letters Patent, is,―:
First, the general constructions and arrangements of buttons, as herein-
before described.
1
Second, the application and use of a button so constructed that the 'exterior
portion thereof shall be at liberty to revolve round.the.shank fastening or..eye
when the latter is attached to the garment, substantially as herein-before
described.
Third, the use of the teeth a (Figure 4) arranged at the base of the shank
A, substantially and for the purposes herein-before set forth.
Fourth, the employment of the centre piece H (Figure 5) in combination
with the perforated face plate F and back plate G, substantially as herein-
before described.
Fifth, the application and use of a button composed of the face plate A,
partially open back B revolving flexible eye M and the part E,. or its equi-
valent, for supporting and retaining the eye, constructed and operating together
substantially as and for the purpose herein-before set forth.
Sixth, the enclosing of the flexible eye M in a ring of metal. E, or its
equivalent, before placing it in the button for the purpose of confining it, and
preventing it from being withdrawn from the.button. by the strain to which it
is subjected.
i
1.

page_text: Seventh, the application and use of a face button having a perforated
revolving metallic eye (Figure 9), constructed substantially in the manner
herein-before described.
Eighth, the application and use of a stud or fastening D, d, (Figure 15,)
so constructed as to be capable of being securely fastened to the garment inde-
pendently of the button, and admit of the button being subsequently attached
thereto, substantially as and for the purpose herein-before set forth.
Ninth, the employment of the key or locking piece C (Figures 13 to 16)
rotating or otherwise made moveable within the button, and so arranged
relatively to the opening M, m, in the back of the button and to the head d
of the stud D, that after the latter has been fixed to the garment, the
button may be securely fastened thereto, with liberty to move thereon, sub-
stantially as herein-before described.
Tenth, the system or mode of constructing a button that the face thereof
is adapted to be removed and another substituted, whilst the back or a part
thereof remains firmly secured to the garment, substantially as shewn in
Figures 17 to 20, and for the purposes herein-before described.
In witness whereof, I, the said John Henry Johnson, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, the Seventh day of November, One thousand
eight hundred and sixty-one.
J. HENRY JOHNSON. (L.B.)