IMPROVEMENTS IN WEAVING CARPETS AND IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS TO BE USED THEREIN, PARTS OF WHICH MACHINERY OR APPARATUS ARE APPLICABLE TO THE WEAVING OF OTHER FABRICS
Year: 1859

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Andrew Phillips, of Glasgow, in the County of
Lanark, North Britain, Gentleman, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS
IN WEAVING CARPETS AND IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS TO BE USED THEREIN,
PARTS OF WHICH MACHINERY OR APPARATUS ARE APPLICABLE TO THE WEAVING
OF OTHER FABRICS."
Sealed the 17th January 1860, and dated the 18th July 1859.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Andrew Phillips at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 18th
July 1859.
I, ANDREW PHILLIPS, of Glasgow, in the County of Lanark, North Britain,
Gentleman, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN WEAVING CARPETS AND IN THE MACHINERY OR APPARATUS TO BE USED
THEREIN, PARTS OF WHICH MACHINERY OR APPARATUS ARE APPLICABLE TO THE
WEAVING OF OTHER FABRICS," to be as follows, that is to say :-
This Invention relates more particularly to the manufacture of the class of
carpeting known as "Kidderminster" or yard wide carpeting, so as to produce
generally similar fabrics either with a looped or piled surface similar to the
Brussels and Wilton manufactures. According to this Invention the looped
and piled surface of the carpet is produced wholly by the weft which is bound
to the body warps by a secondary or binding weft. The ordinary hand or
other loom may be employed in the manufacture of this improved carpeting
and under one modification there is arranged at the back of the loom a beam
on which is wound a series of stationary or loop-forming warps, cords, lines,
or threads. This beam is arranged low down, and the warps are carried fron

page_text: it over a secondary or tensional roller and thence through the dents of the
reed. The number of the stationary warps, cords, or threads, is equal to the
number of loops required to form the width of the carpet, and they are
composed for the greater part of their length of india-rubber, the front portion
at the part where the lathe works to and fro being of wire, cord, or steel wire,
The loop-forming warps, cords, or threads, are carried through the dents of
the ordinary reed and then through the dents of a secondary reed or "regu-
lator "arranged in front of the loom and immediately behind the breast beam.
This "regulator" or secondary reed consists of two parallel bars of metal
which may be adjusted as regards their distance asunder by means of thumb
screws. The upper bar of the regulator is fitted with a series of teeth or dents
through which the ends of the stationary warps are brought, and are firmly
held at that point by forming a swell or enlargement at the part so as to
prevent their receding through the dents of the regulator. It is at this part
of the stationary warps that the small cutting blades are fitted if the carpet is
to be made with a pile or velvet face. The body warps are carried in the
ordinary manner from the beam or beams through the reed and then through
the dents of the regulator and away to the cloth beam. The headles through
which the stationary and the binding or body warps are passed, are connected
with a jacquard machine for forming the shed for the different colours of weft,
In the weaving of the carpet one ply of warp is raised and the loop-forming
warps, cords, or threads, are depressed, and a shot of the woollen or surface weft
being thrown in, the body warp is depressed, and the loop forming warps,
cords, or threads, are raised. The depression of the body warp thus carries
and holds down the weft on each side of the stationary warps and one or more
shots of binding weft are now thrown in to bind the loops to the body warp.
Another ply being raised and the loop-forming warps, cords, or threads,
depressed, the operation of throwing in and binding the weft is repeated. To
obtain the necessary amount of slack or surplus of weft to form the loops, a
thin curved blade or hook-shaped piece of metal is secured to the hand rail of
the lathe. The hand rail is hung upon pivots and the free extremity of the
blade or hook descends so as to be nearly on a level with the warp, so that by
slightly turning the hand rail the weaver can cause the end of the blade to
pass between the warps or raise it above them. As the weaver moves the
lathe back he depresses the blade slightly so as to cause it to draw back the
shot of weft which he releases as the lathe reaches the extremity of its traverse,
the raising of the loop-forming warps, cords, or threads, now takes up this
amount of surplus, and at the next shot of the woollen weft the operation is
repeated. As the fabric is woven, the tension of the take-up motion draws the

page_text: loops over the slightly enlarged ends of the loop-forming warps, cords, or
threads, or if it be piled fabric the loops are cut by means of the blades
inserted at the ends, and the fabric passes away to the cloth beam, the
arrangement of the take-up motion consists of a sliding bar fitted to the side
of the loom which projects out beyond the framing in the direction of the
lathe and is kept in that position by a spring. There is a projecting part on
the sliding bar which traverses in a recess cut in a guide picce fitted parallel
to the bar and which limits its traverse, a pawl on the under side of the sliding
bar takes into the teeth of a ratchet wheel on the spindle of the tensional
cloth beam; the ratchet wheel is prevented from recoiling by a second pawl
which holds it during the movement of the first one. As the lathe beats up the
weft a projecting part in front of it strikes against the end of the sliding bar,
the backward motion of which moves the ratchet wheel round to the desired
extent, and the spring acting on the bar, moves it outward again in readiness
for the next beat up of the lathe. The arrangement also provides for shots of
weft being thrown in without actuating the ratchet wheel. The projecting
part in front of the lathe which strikes against the sliding bar is made to slide
up and down, but is kept in an upward position by a spring. When tho
weaver wishes to avoid actuating the take-up, he depresses this projecting
part by means of the hand rail which brings a slot made therein opposite the
sliding bar, so that when the lathe is moved forward the sliding bar remains
intact. This arrangement for actuating the take-up is applicable to other
looms than those used for the manufacture of carpets. If the carpet to be
made is required to have both sides alike, then a corresponding arrangement
of loop-forming and binding warps are placed below the upper series, and the
"regulator" is made with duplex dents to receive the secondary series of
warps upon which the under surface pattern is formed. It is thus obvious
that the present Invention relates as well to an improved system or mode of
weaving carpets and other fabrics, as to special machinery or apparatus to be
employed therein.

page_text: WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Eighteenth day of July, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-nine, in the twenty-third year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the
said Andrew Phillips, Her special license that I, the said Andrew Phillips, my
executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Andrew
Phillips, my executors, administrators, or assigns, should at any timo
agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter
during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use,
exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland,
the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
WEAVING CARPETS AND IN THE MACHINERY OR APPARATUS TO BE USED THEREIN,
PARTS OF WHICH MACHINERY OR APPARATUS ARE APPLICABLE TO THE WEAVING OF
OTHER FABRICS," upon the condition (amongst others) that I the said Andrew
Phillips, by an instrument in writing, under my hand and seal, should par-
ticularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what
manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in
the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and imme-
'diately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Andrew Phillips, do hereby declare the
nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement, reference being had to the accompanying Drawings, and to the
letters and figures marked thereon, that is to say:-
My said Invention relates more particularly to the manufacture of the class
of carpeting known as "Kidderminster" or yard-wide carpeting, so as to
produce generally similar fabrics, either with a looped or piled surface similar
to the Brussels and Wilton manufactures. According to this Invention the
looped and piled surface of the carpet is produced wholly by the weft which is
bound to the body warps by a secondary or binding weft. The ordinary band
or other loom may be employed in the manufacture of this improved carpeting,
and under one modification there is arranged at the back of the loom a beam
on which is wound a series of stationary or loop forming warps, cords, lines, or
threads. This beam is arranged low down and the warps are carried from it
over a secondary or teusional roller, and thence through the dents of the reed.
The number of the stationary warps, cords, or threads, is equal to the number
of loops required to form the width of the carpet, and they are composed for
the greater part of their length of india-rubber, the front portion at the part
where the lathe works to and fro being of wire cord or steel wire. The loop

page_text: forming warps, cords, or threads, are carried through the dents of the ordinary
reed, and then through the dents of a secondary reed or "regulator" arranged
in front of the loom and immediately behind the breast beam. This " regu-
lator,"
or secondary reed, consists of two parallel bars of metal which may be
adjusted as regards their distance assunder by means of thumbscrews. The
upper bar of the regulator is fitted with a series of teeth or dents through
which the ends of the stationary warps are brought and are firmly held at
that point by forming a swell or enlargement at the part, so as to prevent their
receding through the dents of the regulator. It is at this part of the stationary
warps that the small cutting blades are fitted, if the carpet is to be made with
a pile or velvet face. The body warps are carried in the ordinary manner
from the beam or beams through the reed, and then through the dents of the
regulator, and away to the cloth beam. The beddles through which tho
stationary and the binding or body warps are passed are connected with a
jacquard machine for forming the shed for the different colours of weft. In
the weaving of the carpet one ply of warp is raised and the loop forming
warps, cords, or threads are depressed, and a shot of the woollen or surface
weft being thrown in, the body warp is depressed, and the loop forming warps,
cords, or threads are raised. The depression of the body warp thus carries and
holds down the weft on each side of the stationary warps, and one or more
shots of binding weft are now thrown in to bind the loops to the body warp.
Another ply being raised, and the loop forming warps, cords, or threads
depressed, the operation of throwing in and binding the weft is repeated. To
obtain the necessary amount of slack or surplus of weft to form the loops a
thin curved blade or hook-shaped piece of metal is secured to the hand rail of
the lathe. The hand rail is hung upon pivots, and the free extremity of the
blade or hook descends, so as to be nearly on a level with the warp, so that by
slightly turning the hand rail, the weaver can cause the end of the blade to
pass between the warps, or raise it above them. As the weaver moves the
lathe back, he depresses the blade slightly, so as to cause it to draw back the
shot of weft, which he releases as the lathe reaches the extremity of its
traverse; the raising of the loop forming warps, cords, or threads now takes
up this amount of surplus, and at the next shot of the woollen weft, the
operation is repeated. As the fabric is woven, the tension of the take-up
motion draws the loops over the slightly enlarged ends of the loop-forming
warps, cords, or threads, or if it be piled fabric, the loops are cut by means
of the blades inserted at the ends, and the fabric passes away to the cloth
beam. The arrangement of the take-up motion consists of a sliding bar
fitted to the side of the loom which projects out beyond the framing in the

page_text: direction of the lathe, and is kept in that position by a spring. There is a
projecting part on the sliding bar, which traverses in a recess cut in a guide
piece fitted parallel to the bar, and which limits its traverse. A pawl on the
under side of the sliding bar takes into the teeth of a ratchet wheel on the
spindle of the tensional cloth beam, the ratchet wheel is prevented from
recoiling by a second pawl, which holds it during the movement of the first
one. As the lathe beats up the weft a projecting part in front of it strikes
against the end of the sliding bar, the backward motion of which moves the
ratchet wheel round to the desired extent, and the spring acting on the bar
moves it outward again in readiness for the next beat up of the lathe. The
arrangement also provides for shots of weft being thrown in without actuating
the ratchet wheel. The projecting part in front of the lathe which strikes
against the sliding bar is made to slide up and down, but is kept in an upward
position by a spring. When the weaver wishes to avoid actuating the take-up,
he depresses this projecting part by means of the hand rail, which brings a
slot made therein opposite the sliding bar, so that when the lathe is moved
forward, the sliding bar remains intact. This arrangement for actuating the
take-up is applicable to other looms than those used for the manufacture of
carpets. If the carpet to be made is required to have both sides alike, then
a corresponding arrangement of loop forming and binding warps are placed
below the upper series, and the "regulator" is made with duplex dents to
receive the secondary series of warps upon which the under surface pattern is
formed. It is thus obvious that the present Invention relates as well to an
improved system or mode of weaving carpets and other fabrics, as to special
machinery or apparatus to be employed therein.
And in order that my said Invention may be properly understood, I shall
now proceed to describe the several illustrative Figures on the explanatory
Sheet of Drawings which I have hereunto appended for the purpose of
showing certain modifications under which my improvements may be
judiciously carried out in practice, that is to say :-
Figure 1, on the accompanying Sheet of Drawings is a partially sectional
elevation of a loom arranged with one modification of my improvements
applied thereto. Figure 2 is a sectional elevation, showing a portion of the
loop and pile forming mechanism, drawn to a larger scale than Figure 1.
Figure 8 is a plan corresponding to Figure 2. As delineated in the accom-
panying Drawings my improvements are shown as applied to a hand loom of
the ordinary kind; the framing A consists of the usual vertical pillars, which
are connected by transverse top and bottom rails. To the end pillars at the
back of the loom, are bolted the brackets which carry the journals of the

page_text: warp beam B, on which are wound the warps C. These warps, which form
the cloth body of the fabric are passed through the eyes of the heddles D,
which are connected by the cords E to the actuating treadles F; the down-
ward movement of the heddles being obtained by the weights G, which are
suspended thereto. The warps C pass through the dents of the reed H, which
is fitted in the lathe I attached to the swords J and rocking tree K in the
usual manner. The cloth as it is woven passes over the breast beam L, below
the rotatory beam M, and thence on to the cloth beam N.
In manufacturing carpets or other generally similar fabrics having a pile or
velvet-like face, according to this Invention, the weft is caused to form a series
of loops over wires extending to the back part of the loom. The loop wires O
are formed in pieces twice the required length, the two ends being brought
together, they are each attached to a cord P, which passes over the roller Q
and has suspended to it the weight R. The journals of the roller Q are
carried in brackets, which are bolted to the back pillars of the loom framing.
The front end of each loop wire is held in proper position by passing through
its looped end a piece of thin flat steel spring S, the free ends of which are
brought together and passed through a longitudinal slot or opening formed by
bolting the bar T to the inwardly projecting bracket piece U, which forms a
kind of secondary breast beam, on which the operation of cutting the loops to
form the pile is effected. The free ends of the springs S are brought forward
and passed through a longitudinal opening in the bar V, the springs being
kept equidistantly apart by inserting small pieces of brass between them. The
series of springs S are retained in position by passing a wire through holes
made in the projecting ends, which extend out in front of the bar V. In this
manner, the loop forming wires O are arranged parallel to each other, and are
kept properly in tension by means of the weights R, the formation of the
pattern being effected by passing the duplex wire of each loop former through
the mails of the harness W, the cords of which are attached to and raised in
the predetermined sequential order by the jacquard apparatus above. The
shed is formed, in the ordinary manner, by the depression of the treadles, a
certain proportion of the wires O being also raised by the jacquard machine to
form one portion or thread of the pattern. The weft is now thrown in, and
as the loops are wholly formed by the weft, it is necessary that there should
be a considerable amount of slack or surplus to admit of its being carried
down on each side of the wires O. This is provided for by an arrangement
in connection with the lathe I, the hand rail X of which is centred on end
pivots; this rail has secured to it two, three, or other convenient number of
thin curved blades Y, which are made sufficiently long to extend a little below

page_text: the wires O. As the weaver pushes back the lathe to admit the passage of
the shuttle through the shed, he turns the hand rail X partially round by
a simple movement of the wrist. This partial rotation of the rail causes
the curved blades Y to sweep downwards and catch the weft, and so carry it
backwards to the extent of the lathe's traverse. The raised series of wires O
are now depressed; these wires as they descend carry the weft down on each
side of the horizontal wires. The weft thus forms a series of loops, the height
of which loops is regulated by the distance between the upper and lower
portion of each wire. The loops are bound in by depressing the upper series
of body warps and raising the lower ones, and these warps are woven together
to form the cloth or body of the fabric by throwing in a binding weft of linen
or other suitable yarn. As the loops are formed in succession on the wires O,
the woven fabric is drawn off the wires by the action of the take-up motion,
the loops passing off from the wires on to the holders S. It is at this point
that the loops are cut through to form the pile of the carpet or other fabric
being manufactured. On the ends of the bracket piece or secondary breast
beam U is fitted a sliding bar Z, which forms a holder for the series of
cutters, a reciprocatory motion being imparted to the holder, so that the knives
may cut through one row or transverse series of loops at a time and then be
drawn back preparatory to repeating the operation. The cutters a are
made with a projecting-wedge-shaped part in front, the inclined edge of which
forms the cutter, the lower horizontal edge forming a smooth blunt surface
-which-traverses to and fro just above the surface of the woven fabric. The
cutters a are made with a part which extends above the inclined cutting edge,
this part fits into the longitudinal opening in the bar Z, the lower part of the
cutter passing down between the inner faces of the flat spring holders S, which
thus serves as a guide for the cutter, the cutting edge of the knife-being-exactly
in a line with its contiguous wire O.-In this manner each wire is furnished with
a cutter to sever the loops formed on it, the several knives being kept at a
proper distance asunder by interposing pieces of brass between them, which the
longitudinal opening in the bar Z affords facility for doing. The cutters are
wedged up tightly by means of the screws b, which pass through the ends of
the bar Z. By loosening these screws the cutters may be readily removed
when they require to be sharpened. The bar Z is connected by a link to the
lever c, which is centred on a laterally projecting stud fixed in the bracket of
the secondary breast beam U. The lower extremity of the lever is jointed to
the horizontal sliding rod d, which is carried in the tubular guide e; the front
extremity of the rod d extends out through an aperture made for the purpose
in the breast beam, and passes through a guide f, which is bolted to the front

page_text: axes.
of the beam. The other extremity of the rod d extends in a backward
direction towards the lathe, and it is kept in this position when not otherwise
acted upon, by means of the helical spring g, one extremity of which is attached
to the back of the guide f, and the other to a flange formed on the rod d. A
corresponding arrangement of the rod d and its connected parts is fitted upon
the other side of the loom. As the weaver brings the lathe I forward to beat
up the weft, the lower rail of the lathe strikes against the projecting ends of
the rods d which recede, and so cause the levers c to partially turn upon their
This movement of the levers causes the cutters to advance with a
sudden motion towards the loops, the pointed ends of which enter the loops
and sever them. As the fabric is woven and the loops are divided, the take-up
motion draws the cloth forward beneath the cutters, and after passing over the
breast beam and under the roller, it is wound on the cloth beam. Upon the
lathe being moved back for the formation of a new shed, the springs g press
back the rods, and the cutters are thus caused to recede in readiness for a
repetition of the cutting operation. This arrangement of the cutters is greatly
superior to that of stationary knives, as the severance of the loops is effected
with much more facility, and the strain upon the cutting mechanism produced
by the continuous pressure of the loops is avoided. Instead of arranging the
warps on one beam, as shown in the accompanying Drawings, I prefer in somo
cases to wind them upon four rollers, arranged one behind the other at a slight
angle, the journals of the rollers being carried in suitable brackets bolted to
the back pillars of the loom framing. In weaving looped fabrics according to
these improvements, the cutters and their connected parts are disposed with,
and in lieu of the arrangement of the wires O, and their holders S, a series of
plain wires are attached to the weights, the front ends of which are made with
a conical projection or swell, so as to prevent them from passing backwards
through the dents of a secondary reed or regulator, which is arranged just
behind the ends of the wires, and serves to keep them in position. The wire
for these loop formers is selected to suit the size of the predetermined loops,
and it passes freely through the elliptical openings or dents in the secondary
reed, so that whilst there is ample room for the passage of the loops through
these openings, the swell or projecting part on each wire effectually prevents
its recoil in a backward direction. In lieu of these stationary loop forming
wires, stuffing chains may be used to cushion the loops on, which stuffing
chains may be attached to the jacquard machine, and so take the place of the
wires. These improvements are applicable to the production of
variety of
novel effects in the manufacture of pile and looped fabrics, and at a lower
cost than has hitherto been accomplished.

page_text: Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of my said
Invention, and the manner in which the same is or may be used or carried
into effect, would observe in conclusion that what I consider novel and
original, and therefore claim as the Invention secured to me by the heroin-
before in part recited Letters Patent, is,-
First, the general arrangement and construction of machinery or apparatus
for weaving figured fabrics having a cut pile or looped surface, as herein-
before described and shown in the accompanying Drawings.
Second, the system or mode of weaving pile or looped surface fabrics, in
which the pile or looped surface is wholly formed by the weft, the warp
serving only to form the body of the fabric, as herein-before described.
Third, the system or mode of arranging and constructing the stationary
warps or loop formers for weaving pile fabrics, as herein-before described and
shown in the accompanying Drawings.
Fourth, the system or mode of forming a pile surfaco on woven fabrics by
means of the reciprocatory cutting apparatus, herein-before described and
shown in the accompanying Drawings, or any mere equivalent therefor.
Fifth, the system or mode of weaving looped fabrics in which the loops are
formed on wires or stuffing chains, as herein-before described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Andrew Phillips, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Tenth day of January, One thousand eight
hundred and sixty.
AND. PHILLIPS. (L.s.)