IMPROVEMENTS IN LADIES' BUSTLES OR TOURNURES
Year: 1872

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Alexander Melville Clark, of 53, Chancery Lane,
in the County of Middlesex, Patent Agent, for the Invention of
"IMPROVEMENTS IN LADIES' BUSTLES OR TOURNURES." -A communication
from abroad by Amos Worthington Thomas, of Philadelphia, in the
County of Philadelphia, and State of Pennsylvania, United States of
America.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Alexander Melville
Clark at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his
Petition, on the 4th June 1872.
I, ALEXANDER MELVILLE CLARK, of 53, Chancery Lane, in the County
of Middlesex, Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature of the said
Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN LADIES' BUSTLES OR TOURNURES," to be as
follows:-
The object of this Invention is to so improve the "braces," and also
the arrangement of "bows," the waistband, rim, and inner lacing of the

page_text: bustles or tournures worn by ladies beneath their dresses that the said
bustles will become stronger and more durable than hitherto, without
losing in elasticity or appearance.
66
The Invention consists, first, in making the "braces" which stay the
‘bows” at or near the middle of the bustle of diverging wires, whose
lower ends are connected and bear against the body of the wearer, which
therefore gives support to every bow in manner to prevent the weight of
the dress or skirts from drawing the bustle down and rendering it
unshapely. Still the bustle will remain elastic and yielding to lateral
pressure, and impact. By being all connected at their lower ends, the
several braces serve also to sustain each other and to equalize the support
of the several bows. Each of the braces or standards consists of as many
lengths of flat skirt wire as there are bows, and one more to connect
with the waistband. Thus when five bows are used and thus braced,
each brace or standard has six such lengths or sections. They all
converge at their lower ends, where they are firmly connected, while
their upper ends connect with the waistband and the several bows
respectively. The lengths are gradually reduced with the greater
distance from the waistband.
As a modification the lower bow may be simply suspended from the
bow next above by straight wires.
The next feature of this Invention consists in making the innermost
and outermost braces of a diverging set in one piece, and in extending
the outermost brace down along the lower bows to support or hold the
same suspended from above. This enable the bustle to be made of
suitable length, that is to say, of a suitable number of bows, of which
the lower are held the necessary distances apart from those above by the
downward extensions of the braces.
The Invention also consists in making the bustle with a continuous
stiff semi-elliptic rim. The bows are secured to this rim or border piece,
whose ends are attached to and suspended from the sides of the waist-
band. This rim gives to the lower part of the bustle a nicely rounded
outline, besides ensuring a firmer support to the ends of the bows. The
upper two, three, or four bows having to support the greatest weight of
the dress, are braced at or near the middle by stays, whose lower ends
are connected with the stay which is suspended from the waistband.

page_text: The lowermost stay is a continuation of this one, and is further extended
along the inner and outer sides of the lower bows, its lower end con-
necting with the rim. When two sets of such bracing are used the
bustle is made strong and durable without losing its elasticity.
For persons having small hips additional bracings similar to the above
may be applied to the sides of the waistband.
The Invention also consists in stiffening the back portion of the
waistband between the ends of the rim or other side support of the
bows in order to prevent the braces, which are attached to such back
portion of the waistband, from dragging the same down and making it
inconvenient to the wearer. The waistband is thus stiffened by means
of a spring connecting with the ends of the rim. This will help to
sustain the bustle in shape even under a heavy dress, and will prevent
either side from sagging and making the figure unshapely. Cords or
straps are used connecting the upper bows, which may be more or less
drawn to regulate the rounding or bulge of the bustle.
Moreover the Invention consists in the use of grooved or U shaped
strips of sheet metal, which are applied to the sides rim of the bustle
to receive the ends of the bows and prevent such ends from working
through the sides or rim and becoming exposed, and thereby making the
bustle useless. Each of these bent strips is made long enough to protect
the ends of all or at least of a series of the bows. The side pieces, or
whatever is used as their equivalent, may be made to conceal these
metal strips. The bows are or may be further fastened to the side pieces
by single clasps or devices of suitable kind.
Finally, the Invention consists in making the inner tape lacing of the
bustle, which bears against the body of the wearer in front, in v shaped
sections, so that thereby the requisite contact is obtained over a con-
siderable surface, and lightness and openness at the same time are insured.
These V shaped sections are made in two pieces fastened at the upper
and lower part of the bustle, and are connected in the middle by a cord,
or by tape, or suitable lacing. It is considered preferable to use the
cord connection, as it allows the lateral adjustment of the bustle.
It need not be specially considered that the several improvements
herein-above specified do not depend one upon the other for their prac-

page_text: ticability or value, but that they may be separately introduced, or two or
more of them on one bustle, as may be desired.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Alexander Melville Clark in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 3rd December 1872.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, ALEXANDER
MELVILLE CLARK, of 53, Chancery Lane, in the County of Middlesex,
Patent Agent, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Fourth day of June, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-two, in the
thirty-fifth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors,
give and grant unto me, the said Alexander Melville Clark, Her special
licence that I, the said Alexander Melville Clark, my executors, adminis-
trators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Alexander Melville
Clark, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time
agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter
during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use,
exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and
Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IM-
PROVEMENTS IN LADIES' BUSTLES OR TOURNURES," a communication to me from
abroad by Amos Worthington Thomas, of Philadelphia, in the County of
Philadelphia, and State of Pennsylvania, United States of America, upon
the condition (amongst others) that I, the said Alexander Melville Clark,
my executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my,
or their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and
ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the
same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great
Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately
after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Alexander Melville Clark, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is
to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and

page_text: by the following statement, reference being had to the accompanying
Sheet of Drawings, and to the letters and figures marked thereon (that
is to say) :-
The object of this Invention is to so improve the braces, and also the
arrangement of bows, the waistband, rim, and inner lacing of the bustles
or tournures worn by ladies beneath their dresses that the said bustles
will become stronger and more durable than hitherto, without losing in
elasticity or appearance.
The Invention consists, first, in making the braces which stay the
bows at or near the middle of the bustle of diverging wires, whose
lower ends are collected and bear against the body of the wearer, which
therefore gives support to every bow in manner to prevent the weight
of the dress or skirts from drawing the bustle down and becoming
unshapely. Still the bustle will remain elastic and yielding to lateral
pressure, and impact. By being all connected at their lower ends the
several braces serve also to sustain each other and to equalize the support
of the several bows.
The next feature of this Invention consists in making the innermost
and outermost braces of a diverging set in one piece, and in extending
such piece down along the lower bows to support or hold the same
suspended from above. This enables the bustle to be made of suitable
length, that is to say, of a suitable number of bows, of which the lower.
are held the necessary distances apart from those above by the downward
extensions of the braces.
The Invention also consists in making the rim of the bustle in one
piece. The rim is that part of the bustle to which the ends of the bows
are secured, and is preferably made similarly stiff as the bows. In this
Invention the two ends of the rim are secured to the waistband, and the
shape of the rim is semi-elliptic, giving thus to the lower part of the
bustle a nicely rounded outline, besides insuring a firmer support to the
ends of the bows.
The Invention also consists in stiffening the back portion of the
waistband between the ends of the rim or other side support of the
bows in order to prevent the braces, which are attached to such back
portion of the waistband, from dragging the same down and making it
inconvenient to the wearer.

page_text: Moreover the Invention consists in the use of grooved or U shaped
strips of sheet metal, which are applied to the sides or rim of the bustle
to receive the ends of the bows and prevent such ends from working
through the sides or rim and becoming exposed, and thereby making the
bustle useless.
Finally, the Invention consists in making the inner tape lacing of the
bustle, which bears against the body of the wearer, in V shaped sections,
so that thereby the requisite contact is obtained over a considerable
surface, and lightness and openness at the same time are insured.
Figure 1 represents a perspective view of a bustle showing the
improved system of diverging braces; Figure 2 is a detail side view of
the braces.
Figure 3 is a perspective view of a bustle showing the lower bow
supporting brace extension, the continuous rim, and the stiffened waist-
band; Figure 4 is a vertical central section of the bustle shown in
Figure 3; and Figure 5 is a top view of the same.
Figure 6 is a sectional side view of a bustle having the U shaped
fasteners for the ends of the bows, and the V shaped lacing in front;
Figure 7 is a front view of the bustle shown in Figure 6; and Figure 8
is a detail horizontal section on the line c, c, Figure 6.
Similar letters of reference indicate corresponding parts.
In the accompanying Drawing, with particular reference to Figures 1
and 3, A represents the waistband of the bustle; B, B1, B2, B³, B*, B³,
are the bows of the bustle. The waistband is made of suitable fabric.
The bows are secured to the waistband at their ends at a'. The upper
bow B is the shortest; the others successively increase in length to
produce the increase in the projecting curves and the general contour of
the whole. In order to maintain the bows the requisite distances apart,
and enable them to sustain the weight of the dress, they must all be
supported or held in their respective positions.
provided a series of standards or braces .C, C.
or braces consists of as many lengths of flat skirt
and one more to connect with the waistband. Thus in the Drawing,
For this purpose I have
Each of these standards
wire as there are bows,

page_text: where five bows are represented as thus braced, each standard or brace
has six lengths or sections c², c³, c*, c³, c, c². They all converge at their
lower ends at c¹, where they are firmly connected, while their upper ends
connect with the waistband and the several bows respectively, as shown.
The lengths are gradually reduced with the greater distance from the
waistband. In this manner an inward brace is provided, which supports
each bow from below, giving it strength to hold the skirt, while the
natural spring of the bows makes them yielding to pressure from the
outside, and causes them to resume their rounded form whenever such
pressure ceases.
As a modification a lower bow B³ may be simply suspended from the
bow B' next above by straight wires D, D, as shown.
In Figures 3, 4, and 5, the same series of braces is illustrated as that
just described, and also the continuous rim and the stiffener spring to
the waistband. The bows B, B¹, B², B³, B', B³, are in these Figures
shown to be secured to a stiff curved rim or border piece E, whose ends
are attached to and suspended from the sides of the waistband. The upper
two, three, or four bows having to support the greatest weight of the
dress, are braced at or near the middle by the stays o³, c³, c³, c', whose
lower ends are connected with the stay c², which is suspended from the
waistband A. The lowermost stay c' is a continuation of c², and is
further extended along the inner or outer sides of the lower bows, as
at c³, its lower end connecting with the rim E, as shown. When two
sets of such bracing are used, as in Figures 3 and 5, the bustle is made
strong and durable without losing its elasticity.
For persons having small hips dditional bracings similar to the above
may be applied to the sides of the waistband.
The waistband is stiffened between the upper ends of the rim E by a
spring G connecting with it, as shown in Figure 5. This will help to
sustain the bustle in shape even under a heavy dress, and will prevent
either side from sagging and making the figure unshapely. d, d, are
cords or straps connecting the several bows above and in line with the
brace c. They may be more or less drawn to regulate the rounding or
bulge of the bustle.
The remaining features of the Invention are shown in Figures 6, 7,
and Q in which howower the custom of hmees above desaxihad has hoon

page_text: entirely omitted. The bows B, B¹, B², B³, B¹, B³, have their ends fitted
into the grooves of U shaped metallic strips e, e, which are concealed
within the fabric composing the side pieces H. Figure 8 shows clearly
in what manner the end of a bow enters the grooved strip e. By these
strips the hoop ends are protected and properly confined, and the
ordinary single clasps dispensed with, which would eventually work
their way through the fabric of the side pieces. Each of the bent
strips e is made long enough to protect the ends of all or at least of
a series of the bows. The side pieces H, or whatever is used as their
equivalent, can be made of suitable fabric to conceal the metal strips.
The bows are or may be further fastened to the side pieces H by single
clasps or devices of suitable kind. F, F, are the sections of tape which
constitute the front of the bustle. They are made V shaped in two
pieces, as shown in Figure 7, and are connected in the middle by cord f,
or by tape, or suitable lacing. It is considered preferable to use the
cord connection, as it allows the lateral adjustment of the bustle.
It need not be specially considered that the several improvements
herein-above specified do not depend one upon the other for their prac-
ticability or value, but that they may be separately introduced, or two
or more of them on one bustle, as may be desired.
'
Having described the nature of the Invention, and in what manner
the same is to be performed, I declare that what I claim as the Invention
to be protected by the herein-before in part recited Letters Patent is,―
1st. The brace or standard C composed of a series of diverging wires
or pieces, whose outer ends are respectively connected to the waistband
and the several bows, as set forth.
2ndly. The bustle or tournure provided with a continuous stiff rim E,
holding the ends of the bows, as set forth.
3rdly. The waistband of a bustle when provided with a stiffener
spring G between the ends of the rim or side pieces, as specified.
4thly. The braces c³, c², and c³, made in one piece and combined with
the braces c, c', e, and with the bows of a bustle, as specified.
5thly. The metallic U shaped strip e bent over the ends of the bows
or hoops of a bustle, substantially as set forth.

page_text: 6thly. The tape front pieces F of the bustle made in V shaped
sections, substantially as and for the purposes herein shown and
described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Alexander Melville Clark, have
hereunto set my hand and seal, this Third day of December,
in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-
two.
Witness,
JAS. O. DEWEY,
53, Chancery Lane,
London.
A. M. CLARK. (L.S.)