Improvements in or relating to Stiffenings for Wearing Apparel.
Year: 1893

page_text: Reprinted as amended in accordance with the decision of the Chief Examiner
dated the 15th day of Aug. 1901.
[The Amendments are shown in italic type.]
Date of Application, 4th Sept., 1893-Accepted, 14th Oct., 1893
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION (AMENDED).
'Improvements in or relating to Stiffenings for Wearing Apparel.
A communication from FRITZ SCHRIEVER, EDWARD SCHRIEVER and WILHELM
SCHRIEVER of Dresden, in the Empire of Germany
I, ALFRED JULIUS BOULT of 323 High Holborn in the County of Middlesex,
Chartered Patent Agent do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in
what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascer-
tained in and by the following statement:-
The stiffenings for mens garments in the trade falsely termed 'waddings' have
heretofore consisted of a smooth material or one woven like linen the warp of
which consisted of threads of cotton and the weft of horse hairs. This material
is however subject to many disadvantages which are a source of trouble to the
trade. It requires a strong finish which however is not proof against damp and
hence the stuff loses its elasticity.
Further in order that such a garment should retain or be restored to its smooth
stiff form it requires frequent ironing, in spite of which however it can never be
restored entirely to its original stiffness.
This stiffening cannot support a continuous pressure as when garments pro-
vided with it are worn underneath top clothes; in which case if such pressure is
exercised upon the stiffening, permanent alterations of shape result. Again any
sharp bendings of the body cause the stiffening to get crinkled and lastly another
special disadvantage is that when the material becomes limp the horse hairs will
come out and will penetrate through the garment.
The object of the present invention is to obviate all these drawbacks by the
employment of a twill like material consisting of a wool warp and a horse hair
weft. In the accompanying drawing by way of example a three plaited twill with
alternating points of intersection has been represented which is specially to be
commended for reasons to be hereafter explained. a a are the warp threads con-
sisting of soft wool. bb the weft of horse hairs which lie loose and alternatingly
with each other as shown in Fig. 1. The cross wefts may of course be arranged
differently provided that the fabric is a twill like material with alternating points
of intersection by which means various degrees of elasticity are attainable;
a somewhat less elastic material may be obtained by substituting in the weft,
wool threads for a portion of the horse hair.
This new horsehair material displays an elasticity quite unattainable in the
olden fabric.
I
It can be rolled up into a ball only at once to rebound to its former shape as
smooth and-stiff as it was before rolling. It is also thoroughly insensible to
continuous pressure. Its elasticity is unaffected by wet and is all the more
lasting inasmuch as it is quite independent of any kind of finish; the latter
process is in fact to be omitted in the manufacture of the material. It is ac-

page_text: cordingly clear that the ironing of garments provided with the new stiffening
is superfluous even after they have been exposed to wet and the pressure of top-
clothes. These advantageous properties are in no way due exclusively to the
substitution of wool for cotton in the warp, it is the manner in which the material
is woven that is of special importance. The loose lying hairs render possible
a vastly superior application of their inherent elasticity, than the interwoven
ones of the older material, more especially as they are not impeded by the cotton
heads which have been stiffened in the finishing. The pieces of hair lying loose
and alternatingly next each other mutually support each other.
Any working loose of the horse hairs after the stiffening has been some time
in use is avoided inasmuch as the material by reason of its want of finish cannot
become limp and loose.
Another property rendering the new material of special value for the purpose
referred to must be noted viz that it shows a tendency to roll up towards on the
right side ie the side on which the weft lies loose. By the application of this
property by simply turning the material when cutting out my correspondents are
enabled to make the parts provided with it to either fit themselves closely and
smoothly upon the body or to stand out according to the requirements of fashion.
If however this property is not to be made use of the material should be made
two sided.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said
invention as communicated to me by my foreign correspondents and in what
manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I claim is :-
A horse hair stiffening for wearing apparel consisting of a twill like material
with a wool warp and horsehair weft which in contrast to the hitherto employed
horsehair stiffening with a cotton weft retains its elasticity permanently even
after exposure to wet pressure and bending substantially as described and illus-
trated in the accompanying drawings.
Dated this 4th day of September 1893.
W. P. THOMPSON & BOULT,
Agents for the Applicant.