Improvements-in and relating to Ladies' Riding Habits and the like, and in Cutting Out and Fitting the same.
Year: 1890

page_text: Date of Application, 27th Feb., 1890
Complete Specification Left, 25th Apr., 1890-Accepted, 6th Sept., 1890
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION. -
Improvements-in and relating to Ladies' Riding Habits and the
like, and in Cutting Out and Fitting the same.
A communication from abroad by WILLIAM HEATH PHELPS, of No. 15, Old Court-
house Street, Calcutta, Empire of India, Manager of the Firm of Messrs. Phelps
and Company, of Calcutta and Simla, Tailors and Habit Makers.
I, WILLIAM PHILLIPS THOMPSON, F.C.S., M.I.M.E., of the Agency for Foreign
Patent Solicitors, 6 Lord Street Liverpool, and 6 Bank Street Manchester, both
in the County of Lancaster, and 323 High Holborn, in the County of Middlesex,
Civil Engineer do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows :-
This invention relates to riding habits adapted for ladies' use, in which the skirt
consists of three distinct parts, two of which form the top-side and underside
respectively and are made to fit the lady, and the third, before being sewn on to the
skirt, is made to fit the pommels of the saddle independently of the lady. These
three parts are then sewn together to make a complete skirt, and the maker is thus
enabled to fit the lady without reference to the saddle and the saddle without reference
to the lady. Whereas, by the old style, the saddle is sought to be fitted with the
same piece of cloth which fits the lady, so that the cutter labours under the dis-
advantage of having to fit a movable and immovable figure with the same piece
of cloth.
Having declared the nature of the invention and the novelty whereof it consists,
the manner in which it may be performed will now be set forth, reference being had
to the drawings which are given as an example of the method of laying out a pattern
for cutting the material.
Figure 1 is a plan, the pattern of the "top side" being shown in full black lines,
while the "underside" is shown in chain dotted lines.
Figure 2 is a plan of the saddle drapery.
Instructions for drafting the "top side" (marked in full lines on Figure 1) :-
A is the starting point square down the required length, say 38 inches, B 30"
down this line, C square out 12", D square from A to D; on this line from A
measure down 8", E. From this point, square out, on this line measure out 10" F,
continue 24" to J, and 32" " to K, square up from F to G with A, measure back
from G 1" to H. The point 1 is got by drawing a line in the direction of a point 2"
above G and 2" from H. The point L is the apex of an equilateral triangle whose
base is J K. M is 4" down a line squared with J K. N is 5" from M on a line
squared with KM. O is equidistant from N and 4" down from M. P is the junction
of two lines, the first of which is squared down from J and second of which is
drawn from 0 to meet the first mentioned line 7" above a line squared out with A B
from B. Qis of the waist measure from H on the straight line G to A. R is 1" out-
side the point E on the square line K to E. These points, when connected as seen
in diagram 1, form the "topside."
:-
Instructions for drafting the "underside" shewn in chain dotted lines, Figure 1:-
S is measured out on a square line from the same distance outside the line A B
as Q is inside. Then take J as a centre and draw a segment of a circle from the
point I, on this curve measure from S (minus the measurement of the waist on the
topside") the total of the waist measure, plus 2 inches or so I. The "underside'
waist line is drawn in gentle curve from S to T, crossing a point 12" above H; on
this line take out the surplus amount to make up the waist measure in a "V"
radiating a little from the right side seam T J and about 4" behind that seam Z
is 3" below a point 3" from B on a line squared with A B. The line S to Z bisects
the line Q to C half way down-W is 3" below R, X is 8" from W parallel with

page_text: the line R to FY is 3" below W. The right side sideseam on the underside is
drawn from I to J and continued identical with the square line J to P. In sewing
the right sideseam, 1 is jointed to I, and the seam is sewn until the point J is
reached, when it bifurcates and receives the drapery of the saddle pominels. The plan
of the saddle drapery is shewn in Figure 2.
In making up the skirt, the V's are sewn in the ordinary way, the left sideseam is
closed from top to bottom and a slit a is opened in the topside as shewn in Figure 1
in the usual way.
Dated this 26th day of February 1890.
WM. P. THOMPSON & Co.,
Agents for the Applicant.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in and relating to Ladies' Riding Habits and the
like, and in Cutting Out and Fitting the same.
A communication from abroad by WILLIAM HEATH PHELPS, of No. 15, Old Court-
house Street, Calcutta, Empire of India, Manager of the Firm of Messrs. Phelps
and Company, of Calcutta and Simla, Tailors and Habit Makers.
I, WILLIAM PHILLIPS THOMPSON, F.C.S., M.I.M E., of the Agency for Foreign
Patent Solicitors, 6, Lord Street, Liverpool, and 6, Bank Street, Manchester, both
in. the County of Lancaster, and 323, High Holborn, in the County of Middlesex,
Civil Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement :-
This invention relates to riding habits or the like, adapted for ladies' use, in
which the skirt consists of three distinct parts, two of which form the top-side and
underside respectively and are made to fit the wearer, and the third, before being sewn
on to the skirt, is made to fit the pommels of the saddle independently of the wearer.
These three parts are then sewn together to make a complete skirt, and the maker is thus
enabled to fit a lady without reference to the saddle, and the saddle without reference
to the lady. Whereas, by the old style, the saddle is sought to be fitted with the
same piece of cloth which fits the lady, so that the cutter labours under the
disadvantage of having to fit a movable and immovable figure with the same piece
of cloth.
Having declared the nature of the invention and the novelty whereof it consists,
the manner in which it may be performed will now be set forth, reference being had
to the drawings accompanying the provisional specification, which are given as an
example of the method of laying out a pattern for cutting the material.
Figure 1 is a plan, the pattern of the "top-side being shown in full black lines,
while the "underside" is shown in chain dotted lines.
Figure 2 is a plan of the saddle drapery.
Instructions for drafting the "top side" (marked in full lines on Figure 1) :-
:-
A is the starting point square down the required length say 38 inches, B, 30"
down this line, C, square out 12", D; square from A to D ; on this line from A
measure down 8", E. From this point, square out; on this line measure out 10" F,
continue 24" to J and 321" to K, square up from F to G with A, measure back
from G 1" to H. The point I is got by drawing a line in the direction of a
point 2" above G and 2" from H. The point L is the apex of an equilateral
triangle whose base is J K. M is 4" down a line squared with J K, N is 5" from M
on a line squared with K M. O is equidistant from N and 4" down from M. P is the
junction of two lines, the first of which is squared down from J and second of which
is drawn from 0 to meet the first mentioned line 7" above a line squared out with
A B from B. Qis of the waist measure from H on the straight line G to A;
R is 1" outside the point E on the square line K to E. These points, when
connected, as seen in diagram 1, form the "top-side."

page_text: Instructions for drafting the "underside" (shown in chain dotted lines, Figure 1):-
S is measured out on a square line from Q the same distance outside the line A B
as Q is inside. Then take J as a centre and draw a segment of a circle from the
point I, on this curve measure from S (minus the measurement of the waist on the
top-side") the total of the waist measure, plus 2 inches or so T. The "underside "
waist line is drawn in a gentle curve from $ to T, crossing a point 1" above H; on
this line take out the surplus amount to make up the waist measure in a "V"
radiating a little from the right side seam T J and about 4" behind that seam Z is 3"
below a point 3" from B on a line squared with A B. The line S to Z bisects the
line Q to C half way down-W is 3" below R, X is 8" from W and paraliel with the
line R to F-Y is 3" below W. The right side sideseam on the underside is drawn
from T to J and continued identical with the square line J to P. In sewing the right
sideseam T is joined to I, and the seam is sewn until the point J is reached, when it
bifurcates and receives the drapery of the saddle pommels. The plan of the saddle
drapery is shown in Figure 2.
In making up the skirt, the Vees are sewn in the ordinary way, the left sideseam
is closed from top to bottom and a slit a is opened in the top-side as shown in Figure 1
in the usual way.
Different sizes of habits may be produced by using graduated tapes,
The example
shown on the drawing is drawn as for a lady measuring 36" seat and if it is desired
to fit a lady measuring 38", a 38" graduated tape should be used.
Graduated tapes are well known in the trade. For instance a 40" grad. is a
tape which measures really 40 inches to the yard and this 40" is divided into 36 parts,
each representing one inch, so that 18 of such parts will really measure 20" long
and so on.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, as communicated to me by
my foreign correspondent, I declare that what I claim is:
:―
1. The manufacture of ladies' habit skirts and the like substantially in the manner
above described.
2. The manufacture, combination, arrangement and configuration of the sub-
ordinate and subsidiary parts of ladies' riding habit skirt and the like substantially
as above described and delineated in the drawings accompanying the provisional
specification.
Dated this 21st day of April 1890.
WM. P. THOMPSON & Co.,
Agents for the Applicant.