Improvements in and relating to the Manufacture of Waterproof Garments.
Year: 1888

page_text: Date of Application, 14th Dec., 1888
Complete Specification Left. 31st May 1889-Accented 6th July 1889
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in and relating to the Manufacture of Waterproof
Garments.
I, JOHN MARTINDALE THOMPSON of 70 Market Street Manchester in the County
of Lancaster, Merchant Tailor, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as
follows:-
This Invention relates to the manufacture of waterproof garments and it has for its
object to provide for the more effective ventilation of these garments and to improve
their appearance.
In carrying out my Invention I form those parts of the garments which are
exposed to the rain in actual wear, of impervious or waterproofed fabric, the other
portions of the garment being made of pervious cloth. Thus, in coats and similar
garments, a portion of the "fore parts" and the under parts of the sleeves are of
pervious cloth and the other parts of proofed cloth. In some garments the greater
part or a large part of the cloth used may be pervious, for instance in cycling breeches
and trousers, only the fronts of the thighs and logs, or the parts which are actually or
chiefly exposed to the rain are of proofed cloth.
I prefer to employ unproofed linings, but as these cannot be sewn to the garments
without destroying their waterproof character to some extent, I cement strips of cloth
upon the inside of the garment along the scams or in such positions and directions
as may be required, and sew the linings to these strips. In some cases however the
linings or some part or parts of them may be sewn to a pervious part of the garment
or to an unexposed part of proofed cloth, in which cases I need not use a strip as
horein before described. When the lining has to be turned over so as to have
some part of it exposed to the rain in wear, I apply a local proofing to the inner
part of the exposed portion of the lining. The collars of coats I prefer to
make in the same form and manner as the collars of ordinary unproofed
garments, with the exception or difference that the padding or lining of the
collar is proofed. The outer cloth of the collar may be proofed or unproofed
according to taste.
To prevent the return of water, I bind the insides of the lower edges of the sleeves
and skirts with unproofed cloth.
Dated this 13th day of December A.D 1888.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in and relating to the Manufacture of Waterproof
Garments.
I, JOHN MARTINDALE THOMPSON, of 70 Market Street Manchester in the County
of Lancaster, Merchant Tailor, do hereby declare the nature of this invention, and in
what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement :-
This Invention relates to the manufacture of waterproof garments and it has for
its objects to provide for the more effective ventilation of such garments and to
improve their appearance.
In carrying out my Invention, I form those portions or parts of the garment which
are exposed to rain in actual wear, of impervious or waterproofed fabric. Thus, in
coats and similar garments, a portion of the "fore parts," the under parts of the
sleeves, and those parts which are protected by other parts of the garment or which

page_text: may be protected by a separate cape or similar accessory, may be made from
pervious or unproofed fabric the other parts of the garment being made from
waterproofed fabric. The collars of coats I prefer to make in the same form
and manner as the collars of ordinary unproofed garments of a similar character.
The outer cloth of the collar may be proofed or unproofed according to taste.
To prevent the return of water, I bind the lower edges of the sleeves and of the
skirts with unproofed fabric.
And in order that my Invention may be more readily understood and carried into
practical effect I will proceed to more particularly describe it with reference to the
accompanying drawings.
In the drawings I have represented in what manner I carry my Invention into
effect more particularly with reference to making up a lady's waterproof garment.
In gentlemen's coats and similar garments, precisely similar methods and processes are
employed, the only material difference being in cut or shape. I have selected a lady's
garment for the purpose of illustration because it is the more difficult to make and because
it will at the same time illustrate in what manner my Improvements are to be applied
in the making up of other garments.
In the drawings, Fig. 1 is a plan of the side body; Fig. 2 is one half of the back;
Fig. 3 is the underside of the sleeve; Fig. 4 is the fore part; Fig. 5 is the side
hody Fig. 6 is the lining of a collar such as is worn with a gentleman's coat;
Fig. 7 is the side body of a gentleman's coat; Fig. 8 is an under sleeve; and
Fig. 9 is a back part for a coat. "Figs. 10, 11 and 12 respectively represent a lady's
waterproof garment in wear.
In order to provide for and secure a perfect match in the proofed and the
unproofed parts of the garments, 1 may either divide a piece of cloth into two
parts of which one part is spread upon one side with indiarubber and is otherwise
treated or proofed in the ordinary manner, whilst the other part is kept
unproofed and is employed in the making up of the pervious or unproofed parts
of the garments.
Alternatively, the proofing may be applied to the cloth in such a manner that
unproofed parts of the cloth follow and alternate with proofed parts. These alternate
proofed and unproofed parts must be so arranged and proportioned that in cutting
out the garments, the proofed and unproofed portions respectively occupy their proper
relative positions in the parts of the garments cut therefrom. Inasmuch however as
the method of preparing the fabric with successive and alternate lengths of proofing
and natural fabric, generally involves waste in cutting up, I prefer to adopt the first
described method of proofing a part of a piece of cloth only and retaining a separate
part unproofed so as to ensure a perfect match in the finished garment between the
proofed and unproofed parts. In parts where the area of proofing is small, the
coating of ruboer may be applied by hand and vulcanised with a weak solution of
chloride of sulphur in bisulphide of carbon or by other means as is well understood.
In Figs. 1 to 9 inclusive, the proofed parts are indicated by the letter A, and the
unproofed parts are stippled and indicated by the letter B.
In all cases, the skirts of a garment being exposed to rain are proofed.
In Fig. 1 the upper part of the side body being protected by the sleeves, by the
slings or by the cape, are unproofed. In Fig. 2 the back, if to be protected by a
separate cape or accessory, as hereinbefore described, is unproofed, if on the other
hand it is not to be further protected from the rain by a separate garment or accessory,
it is proofed.
Fig. 3, the under part of the sleeve, is unproofed. In some cases however only
the upper portion of the under sleeve is unproofed.
Fig. 4; if unprotected in the finished garment, the fore part is proofed; if to be
protected by a separate cape or other accessory it is unproofed.
Fig. 5, the side body being protected by the sleeves, sling or cape, is unproofed.
Fig. 6 is the quilted lining for the collar of a gentleman's coat and may be proofed
or unproofed.

page_text: Fig. 7, the side body; this part being protected by the sleeves, or by a separate
cape is not proofed.
Fig. 8; the under sleeve being protected, is not proofed.
Fig. 9, the skirt being exposed, is made of proofed material; the upper part
protected by the sleeves or by a separate cape is unproofed.
In soft fabrics, the proofed and unproofed parts such as A and B Fig. 1 may he
joined by "seaming" and "rantering" so as to make a practically invisible connection
between the parts.
The under sleeve or that part nearest to the arm hole and the top side of the sleeve
is preferably cut rather larger than usual, this gives a smaller under side part
but does not in any way impair the efficiency of the ventilation or detract from its
appearance.
In using light fabrics, the difference in weight and strength between the proofed
and the unproofed parts of the garment is equalised by doubling the non-proofed part
with a linen lining which is sewn in with the garment.
In order to obtain a perfectly fitting collar such as generally forms part of an
ordinary gentleman's coat, the padding and lining may be proofed with a solution of
india-rubber after it is padded and shrunk in the ordinary manner, and the proofing
may be cured with a weak solution of chloride of sulphur in carbon bisulphide or
by other means. If the outer part of the collar is made from proofed fabric, this
should be cut very much on the bias and when stitched upon the collar will fit
precisely as in an ordinary collar and very differently from the collars of ordinary
waterproofed garments.
I always prefer to employ single texture proofed fabric and to make loose linings
as in ordinary garments.
Figs. 10 and 11, are respectively front and back views of a lady's garment made
according to these Improvements. Figs. 12 and 13 are views of the same garment
without the separate cape or slings.
In this garment the cape or similar accessory is an independent and separate part
of the garment which may be put on and taken off at the pleasure of the wearer.
The skirts of the garment are formed of proofed material throughout; the bodice and
sleeves or the parts above the waste are unproofed. If the weathor is fine, the
wearer takes off the cape which may then be put into a pocket or satchel, and the
appearance of the garment is as represented in Figs. 12 and 13. In this condition,
there being no proofing above the waist, the garment is as perfectly ventilated for
all practical uses as an ordinary garment. Should rain come on the cape or similar
accessory which is proofed throughout, is put on by the wearer who is then thoroughly
protected.
If the separate cape or similar accessory is not to be used at any time with the
garment, then the parts which are protected by the upper parts of the sleeves only
are unproofed.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said Inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
(1) In a waterproof garment; the combination and arrangement with a skirt made
of proofed fabric, of a bodice and sleeves of unproofed fabric, and a separate proofed
cape or similar accessory; substantially as hereinbefore described.
(2) In a waterproof garment; the combination and arrangement with proofed
skirts, of unproofed sleeves and parts above the waist, a collar made as herein-
hefore described and a separate proofed cape; substantially as hereinbefore set
forth.
(3) In a waterproof garment; the combination and arrangement with proofed
skirts, of unproofed parts above the waist, and a separate proofed cape or similar
accessory; substantially as herein before described.
(4) In a waterproof garment; the combination and arrangement with proofed parts

page_text: which are exposed to the rain such as the skirts, of unproofed parts such as the under
sleeve parts and the fore part which are not directly exposed to the rain in wear;
substantially as hereinhefore described.
(5) In a waterproof garment; a collar having a padded lining and a proofed part,
made substantially as and for the purpose herein before described.
Dated this 20th of M
AD 1000
WILLIAM E. HEYS,
Agent for the Applicant.