Improvements in and connected with Apparatus for Marking and Cutting Garments and Patterns.
Year: 1898

page_text: Improvements in and connected with Apparatus for Marking and
Cutting Garments and Patterns.
I, SARAH ANNE COOKE, Teacher of Dresscutting, of 43A, Alexandra Road, Moss
Side, Manchester in the County of Lancaster, do hereby declare the nature of
this invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to apparatus for marking perforating or cutting the
several parts of garments or of patterns for the same, such as is described in the
Specification of my Patent No. 15021 of 1887, and has for its object to render
such apparatus cheaper in construction and more convenient in use, than that
hitherto known. The said machine chiefly comprises a system of flexible and
adjustable blades projecting edgewise from the plane of an outline frame, bars
extending transversely across the outline frame and serving to support the said
blades, axles extending longitudinally through the said bars and carrying at
their ends toothed pinions which gear into racks attached to the side bars of the
outline frame, and pivotal supports for securing the flexible blades to the trans-
verse bars, so that the said supports may be shifted along the said bars and then
fixed in the desired position, and that the blades may be adjusted longitudinally
in the said supports.
My improvements relate to the means for connecting the ends of the movable
transverse bars with the side bars of the outline frame and to the shape of the
said side bars, also to the pivotal supports of the flexible blades and to the shape
of the transverse bars, also to the means for connecting the side bars of the out-
line frame with the end bars of the same, also to the arrangement and method
of graduation of the measuring scales relatively to the transverse bars and to
the means for securing them to the transverse bars, also to the adjustment of
the shoulder in apparatus for marking men's garments, also to a modified con-
struction of apparatus for marking or cutting patterns for sleeves, also to the
means for mounting two or more frames on a supporting base or table; also to the
means for mounting the paper from which the patterns are to be cut out and to
the pressure roller serving to perforate or mark the paper.
In the accompanying drawings Fig. 1 is a plan of a table on which is mounted
a marking and perforating frame embodying my invention; Fig. 2 is a plan of two
different marking and perforating frames embodying my invention, these two
frames being mounted side by side on the back of the table carrying on its front
the frame shown in Fig. 1; Fig. 3 shows in transverse section the table carrying
the said marking frames, and also the upper part of the stand to which the table
is pivoted.
Figs. 4 to 15 represent details of construction on a large scale, as will be here-
after further described.

page_text: In Fig. 1A, A, are the hollow sides and B, B, the ends of the outline frame, C₁
to Care parallel transverse bars movable parallel with each other along the
sides A, A; D is a telescopic transverse bar; E₁ to E₁ are the flexible metal
blades and F, to F, the graduated scales.
As shown by Figs. 4, 5 and 6, each of the sides A of the frame consists of a
cylindrical metal tube provided on one side with a longitudinal slot to afford
room for the axles & passing axially through the transverse bars C, and it contains
a rack a consisting of a narrow metal strip bent or corrugated so as to form teeth.
On each end of the axle G is mounted a pinion g gearing into the rack a, and
cach end of the transverse bars C is armed with a bush p which serves as a bearing
for the axle. To prevent accidental shifting of the crossbars C relatively to the
sides A, they are provided at each extremity with an elastic clip i which consists
of a semicylindrical piece of sheet metal mounted on the axle G and fitting over
the side bar A, so that after each adjustment of a cross bar the latter is held in
place by friction due to the pressure of the clip.
In the case of the telescopic transverse bars D represented by Fig. 4, each of the
pinions forms a ball joint for a spherical journal formed on the extremity of
the sliding bar or plug d.
Each of the transverse bars C consists of a cylindrical metal tube provided at the
top with a longitudinal slot, as shown by Figs. 8, 9 and 10, and the edges of the slot
are flattened to form a wide supporting base for the adjustable pegs or pivotal
supports shown in Figs. 7 and 8. This peg consists of a cylindrical top part
provided with a diametrical slot for receiving the flexible blade E (Fis. 7 and 8)
which has a lateral bend or corrugation e, fitting into a cylindrical enlargement
of the said diametrical slot. The lower part of the peg K has the shape of a pin k
extending downward into the slot of the tube C and held therein by means of a
washer, to which the extremity of the pin is rivetted. On the pin is mounted a
screw threaded sleeve 7, and on the latter a screw nut m, as shewn in Fig. 7,
which is a cross section of one of the tubes C.
After the washer has been placed on the pin, and the latter rivetted down, the
nut m is screwed on to the sleeve l, and then the lower extremity of the peg
inserted into the tube C through a circular enlargement c of the longitudinal
slot, which enlargement is situated near one end of each tube C, as shown in
Fig. 1. Afterwards the peg is made to slide in the slot of the tube as far as
required and then fixed by tightening the screw nut m.
2
In the modification represented by Fig. 11 the peg K, is held in place after
adjustment by friction due to the pressure of a spring m, situated in the interior of
the tube C. The said spring consists of a bent piece of sheet steel rivetted on
to the extremity of the ink, instead of a washer and pressing with its edges
against the inside of the tube C. The peg K, represented by Fig. 10 serves as a
support and guide for the flexible blade E, and also as a pivot or hinge for
the blade E⁹. This peg consists of a pair of specially shaped screw studs k, and k₂,
adapted to hold the blade E¹ between them, a screw K, with flat head into which
the said studs are screwed, and an adjusting nut m resting on the slotted part of
the tube C. The screw K, extends down into the slot of the tube C and is held
there by a washer, and the lower part of the stud k¹ serves as pivot for the eye-
shaped upper end of the blade E..
The graduated scales are arranged as follows:-
The scale F is fixed with its upper end or starting point to the crossbar C, in
the manner represented by Figs. 14 and 15, and extends downward below the
telescopic bar D, while the scale F is fixed with its lower end or starting point to
the crossbar D and extends upward beyond the crossbar C₁. The zero point of the
scale F, is at the upper end and the zero point of the scale F, at the lower end.
The scale F is placed with its zero point against the blade E, and adapted to slide
along the tube C₁, it may be attached to the blade E by a sliding joint. The
scales F, and F, may be fixed to a metallic base plate, which supports the blade E
and has a curved slot o for adjusting the middle part of the blade E₁ The
2

page_text: scales F, and F1 are connected with the bar D in the manner represented by
Fig. 9 and adapted to slide along the same independently of each other. Figs. 12
and 13 show a convenient device for guiding the scale F₂ on the crossbar C.
The upper end of the blade E, is hinged to the lower end of a slotted bar e
which is pivoted to the crossbar C, and also serves to guide the blades E10.
For marking or cutting out sleeve patterns, I use the simplified frame repre-
sented by the right half of Fig. 2.
Instead of the upper cross bars, I use a series of horizontal slots P₂, P, P
formed in a metallic base plate, for adjusting and fixing the pegs 91, 92, 93 which
support and guide the blades E2 E2 E23-
To the said base plate are also fixed the scales F13, F14, while the scale F15 is
pivoted at one end to a slotted arm c, secured to the cross bar C,, while the other
end of the scale F₁ is secured to the bar C, near the side A₂.
15
As indicated by the left half of Fig. 2, which represents the frame for marking
the patterns for the back of a dress, the scale F is fixed at the top to the base
plate and graduated downward, while the scale F, is fixed at the lower end to
the waist bar C, and graduated upward. R is a table containing the instruction
for using the apparatus.
The flexible blades E₁, and E₁, which correspond to the shoulder of a dress, may
be pivoted at their lower end, so that they can be placed at any desired angle.
The ends B B' of the outline frame may be wooden bars. or channel irons, into
which the bends of the tubes A, A1, A2 are fitted by means of circularly curved
slots shown by Fig. 3, so as to prevent the accidental turning of the said
tubes.
The said frame ends B, B¹ are preferably mounted on opposite sides of a table S
provided on its horizontal centre line with a pair of pivots s, s (Fig. 1), by means
of which it is supported in a rectangular wooden frame T, so that either the front
or the back of the table may be turned upward. In either position the table may
be secured by means of a pair of fasteners. In the drawings each fastening
device consists of a bolt or pin t provided with a button, and a short lever t₁
which fits into a segmental recess s₁, formed in the edge of the table S. The
frame T is mounted on wooden stands or legs as indicated in Fig. 3 and provided
with a pair of wooden flaps or lids U connected with the frame T by means of
links u, u forming hinge joints, so that the flaps may either cover the frame as
represented in Fig. 3 by full lines, or turned down on the right and left side
of the stand, as represented on the left side of Fig. 3 by dotted lines.
The paper on which the patterns are to be perforated or otherwise marked, and
from which they are to be cut out, is wound on a roller mounted in a recess at the
upper end of the frame T, as indicated at V; the edge of the paper projects
through a slot and is drawn over the surface of the open marking frame and
then secured near the opposite end of the frame, preferably by means of drawing
pins and corks W, which latter are secured to the blades E, E, and E, by means
of flat wires or tapes bent into the shape represented by Fig. 16.
After the flexible blades have been adjusted and fixed in the required position,
and the sheet of paper, preferably transparent rice paper, has been stretched
out over the blades, the necessary pressure is applied to the paper at the required
points, so as to produce the required perforations, or other marks corresponding
to the shape and arrangement of the flexible blades. For this purpose I use
preferably a roller X made of indiarubber or other elastic material, and held in
a fork provided with a handle a, as represented by Figs. 17 and 18.
0711
1000

page_text: Improvements in and connected with Apparatus for Marking and
Cutting Garments and Patterns.
I, SARAH ANNE COOKE, Teacher of Dresscutting, of 43A, Alexandra Road, Moss
Side, Manchester in the County of Lancaster, do hereby declare the nature of
this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
This invention relates to apparatus for marking perforating or cutting the
several parts of garments or of patterns for the same, such as is described in the
Specification of my l'atent No. 15021 of 1887, and has for its object, to render
such apparatus cheaper in construction and more convenient in use than that
hitherto known. The said machine chiefly comprises a system of flexible and
adjustable blades projecting edgewise from the plane of an outline frame serving
to support the said blades, bars extending across the outline frame and serving to
support the said blades axles extending longitudinally through the said bars and
carrying at their ends toothed pinions which gear into racks attached to the side
bars of the outline frame, and pivotal supports for securing the flexible blades
to the transverse bars, SO that the said supports may be shifted
along the said bars and then fixed in the desired position, and that the blades may
be adjusted longitudinally in the said supports.
My improvements relate to the means for connecting the ends of the movable
transverse bars with the side bars of the outline frame and to the shape of the
said side bars, also to the pivotal supports of the flexible blades and to the shape
of the transverse bars, also to the means for connecting the side bars of the out-
line frame with the end bars of the same, also to the arrangement and method
of graduation of the measuring scales relatively to the transverse bars and to
the means for securing them to the transverse bars, also to the adjustment of
the shoulder in apparatus for marking men's garments, also to a modified con-
struction of apparatus for marking or cutting patterns for sleeves, also to the
means for mounting two or more frames on a supporting base or table; also to the
means for mounting the paper from which the patterns are to be cut out, and to
the pressure roller serving to perforate or mark the paper.
In the drawings filed with the Provisional Specification, Fig. 1 is a plan of a
table on which is mounted a marking and perforating frame embodying my
invention; Fig. 2 is a plan of two different marking and perforating frames
embodying my invention, these two frames being mounted
side on the back of the table carrying on its front the frame shown in Fig. 1.
side by
Fig. 3 shows in transverse section the table carrying the said marking frames,
and also the upper part of the stand to which the table is pivoted.
Figs. 4 to 15 represent details of construction on a larger scale, as will be here-
after further described.
In Fig. 1 A, A, are the hollow side and B, B, the ends of the outline frame; C₁
to C are parallel transverse bars movable parallel with each other along the
sides A, A D is a telescopic transverse bar; E₁ to E₁ are the flexible metal
blades and F, to F, the graduated scales.
19
As shown by Figs. 4, 5 and 6, each of the sides A of the frame consists of a
cylindrical metal tube provided on one side with a longitudinal slot to afford
room for the axles G passing axially through the transverse bars C, and it contains
a rack a consisting of a narrow steel strip bent or corrugated so as to form teeth.
On each end of the axle G is mounted a pinion g gearing into the rack a, and
cach end of the transverse bars C is armed with a bush h which serves as a bearing

page_text: for the axle. To prevent accidental shifting of the crossbars relatively to the
sides A, they are provided at each extremity with an elastic clip i which consists
of a semi-cylindrical piece of sheet metal mounted on the axle and fitting over
side bar A, so that after each adjustment of a cross bar the latter is held in
place by friction due to the pressure of the clip.
In the case of the telescopic transverse bars ) represented by Fig. 4, each of the
pinions g forms a ball-joint for a spherical journal formed on the extremity of
the slidin bar or plug d.
Each of the transverse bars C consists of a cylindrical metal tube provided at the
top with a longitudinal slot, as shown by Figs. 8, 9 and 10, and the edges of the slot
are flattened to form a wide supporting base for the adjustable pegs or pivotal
supports K shown in Figs. 7 and S. This peg consists of a cylindrical top part
provided with a diametrical slot for receiving the flexible blade E, Figs. 7 and 8,
which has a lateral bend or corrugation e, fitting into a cylindrical enlargement
of the said diametrical slot. The lower part of the peg K has the shape of a pin k
extending downward into the slot of the tube C and held therein by means of a
washer, to which the extremity of the pin is rivetted. On the pin is mounted a
screw-threaded sleeve and on the latter a screw nut m, as shown in Fig. 7,
which is a cross section of one of the tubes C.
After the washer has been placed on the pin and the latter rivetted down, the
nut m is screwed on to the sleeve l, and then the lower extremity of the peg
inserted into the tube C through a circular enlargement c of the longitudinal
slot, which enlargement is situated near one end of each tube C, as shown in
Fig. 1.
Afterwards the peg is made to slide in the slot of the tube as far as
required and then fixed by tightening the screw nut m.
In the modification represented by Fig. 11 the peg K, is held in place after
adjustment by friction due to the pressure of a spring m₁ situated in the interior of
the tube C. The said spring consists of a bent piece of sheet metal rivetted on
to the extremity of the pin k¹, instead of a washer and pressing with its edges
against the inside of the tube C. The peg K, represented by Fig. 10 serves as a
support and guide for the flexible blade E¹ and also as a pivot or hinge for the
blade E. This peg consists of a pair of screw-studs k and k₁, adapted to hold
the blade E between them (being shaped so as to follow the corrugation of the same)
a screw K₂ with flat head into which the said studs are screwed, and an adjusting
nut m resting on the slotted part of the tube C. The screw K, extends down into
the slot of the tube C and is held there by a washer, but the lower part of the
stud serves as pivot for the blade E, an eye being formed at the upper ex-
tremity of the blade, and the lower part of the stud being passed through the
eye and screwed into the peg K².
The graduated scales are arranged as follows:-
The scale F¹ is fixed with its upper end or starting point to the crossbar C
in the manner represented by Figs. 14 and 15, and passes across the telescopic
bar D, while the scale F is fixed with its lower end or starting point to the cross-
bar D and extends upward beyond the crossbar C₁. The zero point of the scale F₁
is at the upper end and the zero point of the scale F, at the lower end. The
scale F is placed with its zero point against the blade E, and adapted to slide
upon the tube C, it may be attached to the blade E by a sliding joint. The
scales F, and F, may be fixed to a metallic base plate, which supports the blade E
and has a curved slot o for adjusting the middle part of the blade E. The
said base plate fills the rectangular space bounded at the top by the frame B, at the
bottom by the crossbar C and at the side by the longitudinal bars A. The
scales and F¹, are connected with the bar D in the manner represented by
Fig. 9, and adapted to slide along the same independently of each other. Figs. 12
and 13, show a convenient device for guiding the scale F, on the crossbar C3.
The upper end of the blade E, is hinged to the lower end of a slotted bar e,
which is pivoted to the crossbar C, and also serves to guide the blade. E
2

page_text: For marking or cutting out sleeve patterns, I use the simplified frame repre-
sented by the right half of Fig. 2.
Instead of the upper cross bars, I use a series of horizontal slots P₁ P2, P3
formed in a metallic base plate, for adjusting and fixing the pegs 41 42 43 which
support and guide the blades E₁₁ E22, E23
13'
14'
15
To the said base plate are also fixed the scales F₁3, F₁4, while the scale F₁ is
pivoted at one end to a slotted arm c, secured to the cross bar C, and the other
end of the scale F₁ is secured to the bar C, near the side A.
8
As indicated by the left half of Fig. 2, which represents the frame for marking
the patterns for the back of a dress, the scale F, is fixed at the top to the base
plate and graduated downward, while the scale F, is fixed at the lower end to
the waist bar C, and graduated upward. R is a plate containing the instruction
for using the apparatus.
The flexible blades E₁₂ and E₁ which correspond to the shoulder of a dress, may
be pivoted at their upper end, so that they can be placed at any desired angle.
The ends B B¹ of the outline frame may be wooden bars or channel irons, into
which the ends of the tubes A, A1, A2, are fitted by means of circularly curved
slots bb shown by Fig. 3, so as to prevent the accidental turning of the said
tubes.
The said frame ends B, B' are preferably mounted on opposite sides of a table S
provided on its horizontal centre line with a pair of pivots s, s (Fig. 1), by means
of which it is supported in a rectangular wooden frame T, so that either the front
or the back of the table may be turned upward. In either position the table may
be secured by a pair of fasteners. In the drawings each fastening device con-
sists of a bolt or pin t provided with a button, and a short lever t₁ which fits into
a segmental recess s₁, formed in the edge of the table S. The frame T is mounted
on wooden legs, as indicated in Fig. and provided with a pair of wooden flaps
or lids U connected with the frame T by means of links u u forming hinge joints,
so that the flaps may either cover the frame, as represented in Fig. 3 by full lines,
or turned down on the right and left side of the stand, as represented on the left
side of Fig. 3 by dotted lines.
The paper on which the patterns are to be perforated or otherwise marked, and
from which they are to be cut out, is wound on a roller mounted in a recess at the
upper end of the frame T, as indicated at V; the edge of the paper projects
through a slot and is drawn over the surface of the open marking frame and
then secured near the opposite end of the frame, preferably by means of drawing
pins and corks W, which latter are secured to the blades E3, E., and E, by means
of flat wires or tapes bent into the shape represented by Fig. 16.
After the flexible blades have been adjusted and fixed in the required position,
and the sheet of paper, preferably transparent rice paper, has been stretched
out over the blades, the necessary pressure is applied to the paper at the required
points, so as to produce the required perforations, or other marks corresponding
to the shane and arrangement of the flexible blades. For this purpose I
preferably a roller made of indiarubber or other elastic material, and held in
a fork provided with a handle a, as represented by Figs. 17 and 18.
use
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I claim
is:-
-
1. In apparatus for marking or cutting garments or patterns by means of flexible
and adjustable blades mounted on an adjustable frame, the construction of the
frame, the means for connecting the crossbars with the longitudinal bars of the
same and the means for securing the blades to the cross bars, substantially as
decribed with reference to the drawings.
2. In, apparatus for marking or cutting garments or patterns by means of
flexible and adjustable blades and an adjustable frame, the various devices for

page_text: mounting the said blades upon the cross bars, substantially as described with
reference to the drawings.
3. In apparatus for marking or cutting garments or patterns by means of
adjustable and flexible blades, the combination of the blades and crossbars with
graduated scales arranged substantially as described.
4. In apparatus for marking patterns or garments by means of flexible blades,
the devices for mounting the pattern sheets, fixing them to the blades and for
pressing them against the teeth of the same, substantially as described and shown.
5. The construction of marking or cutting apparatus for special purposes as
described and illustrated by the drawings.
6. The combination of two or more outline frames with a supporting table or
base, a stand or stands, and accessories, substantially as described with reference
to Fig. 3.
Dated this 30th day of January 1899
FAIRFAX & WETTER
Agents, 37 and 39, Essex Street, Strand, London.