IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF LACE
Year: 1883

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Birks, Junior, of the Town and County of the
Town of Nottingham Lace Manufacturer for an Invention of IMPROVEMENTS
IN THE MANUFACTURE OF LACE
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Birks, Junior, at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 26th June 1888.
WILLIAM BIRKS, Junior, of the Town and County of the Town of Nottingham
Lace Manufacturer IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF LACE
My improvements consist in the manufacture of an imitation of an expensive
and superior class of lace known as "Pusher" lace.
The best qualities of "Pusher" Lace require a great number of motions, varying
from 80 to 120 motions, of the machine to produce one hole of net with its
accompanying open work and fining, so that the production is necessarily alow,
being diminished by the number of motions required for each hole, and when the
lace has been made upon the machine it has to be embroidered or thick threaded
by hand or other means thus adding to the expense and loss of time in the
production of the lace known as "Pusher" Lace.
The object of my improvement is to produce an imitation which shall be equal
in appearance to the lace herein-before spoken of, and to produce the said imitation
by my improvements at a relatively enormous reduction of motions, on "Lovers"
or "Go-through" lace machines by which means I am able to produce the said
lace at three or four times the speed which is possible on the "Pusher" machine,
and I have the additional advantage of being able to embroider or thick-thread
the lace as it is woven on the "Levers" or "Go through" machine.
The net or ground-work of lace made according to my invention has the
appearance of being twisted all round the hole, or of the threads of which such
net is made being twisted around each other in the cross-ties as well as in the
upright pillars. This gives to the lace made according to my invention a much
closer resemblance to certain classes of hand made lace. The fining or pattern
portion of the lace is varied or shaded light and heavy as may be required for the

page_text: pattern, the heavy fining resembling in appearance what is known as double
gimping or weaving thereby giving to the lace made according to my invention a
close resemblance to Spanish and other laces made by hand
Hitherto imitations of "Pusher" lace have been made to imitate light or inferior
qualities of such lace, requiring for this purpose a double warp, that is two warp
threads to each bobbin thread.
My improvements enable me to produce an imitation of "Pusher "lace of so
superior a quality as to be scarcely distinguishable from the best qualities of
"Pusher" lace for which purpose I require only a single warp or one warp thread
for each bobbin thread; thus showing a great advantage over previous attempts to
imitate "pusher" lace.
For the purpose of carrying out my invention, I use any sort of lace machine
which has or may have an arrangement of Top and Bottom Bars. I use four
perforated bars, or stump bars or their equivalent to govern the position of the
warp threads. Each of the said bars has a series of perforations through which
the warp threads are passed after being passed through perforations in the bottom
bars. Each perforation in the aforesaid bars is to be two gaits long and Buch
perforations are to be alternated with blank spaces of two gaits each as shown in
diagram Figure 1.
When these four perforated or stump bars are in position in the machine with
the warp threads passed through them, the threads constitute what is known in
the Trade as a single warp or one warp thread to each bobbin. It is possible to
use two perforated bars instead of four but not with the same advantage.
In carrying out my invention I give to the before named two or four perforated
bars an uniform action as follows:-At the first motion when the carriages are in
the front combs the bars are made to rise one gait, that is a lateral motion to the
right is given to the said bars to the extent of one gait, and at the second motion
when the carriages are in the back combs the perforated bars return to their
original position.
If the bottom bars are kept down to the left hand, or in other words if no
motion be given to the bottom bars, the continuous action of the two or four
perforated bars, as described above, will twist each warp thread round its own
particular bobbin thread.
In carrying out my invention I keep the bottom bars down to the left hand at
the first motion of the machine and take the 2 or 4 perforated bars up one gait to
the right. At the second motion I take the bottom bars up to the right during
which movement they meet the 2 or 4 perforated bars to which I give a fall of one
gait thus placing the warp threads up two gaits to the right hand on the completion
of the second motion. At the third motion of the machine I bring the bottom
bars down to their original position, meeting the 2 or 4 perforated bars as the
latter rise one gait, consequently the warp threads can only fall one gait. At the
fourth motion of the machine the bottom bars remain down in their original
position whilst the 2 or 4 perforated bars fall one gait thus allowing the warp
threads to return to their original (or starting) point. A continuous repetition of
these movements will produce the before mentioned heavy fining.
It will be seen by the foregoing description of my invention that the bottom
bars are taken up to the right hand only once in each four motions of the machine
and that is at the second motion. If however they are taken up at the fourth
motion instead of the second the result is the same as that herein described.
These movements may be reversed if necessary, that is the traverse of the bars
may be from right to left instead of from left to right as herein described.
By the application of the well known principles of draughting to the invention
just described the light or half finings, the openworks and nets aro produced. I
can also produce the class of lace herein described by top bars alone as shown in
Figure 2 instead of by top and bottom bars as herein described but I do not obtain
from that method all the advantages which I obtain from the method which I have
before described in detail.

page_text: The peculiar character and appearance of the net herein described as having the
appearance of being "twisted all round the hole" is gained by employing four
motions of the machine to each net-tie as shown in diagram Figure 2.
In carrying out this part of my invention all the material for making net-ties
and finings is drawn off the bobbins and I put sufficient weight on the warps as
may be necessary for the purpose of enabling them to assist, by their increased
tension, to pull the required amount of material off the bobbins.
When making the class of lace herein described in part, or altogether of floss
silk I use only two perforated bars or their equivalents and make the perforations
only one gait long as at present is the case in making ordinary lace. My reason
for using perforations of one gait is to produce certain effects by holding the twist
off when required for the introduction of back and front gimps in combination
with the before mentioned nets and finings and also to retain the brilliancy of the
silk by holding some twist off the net which cannot be accomplished by the first
described arrangement of bars.
These two bars have one uniform action as shown in diagrams Figures 3
and 4
My improvements can also be effected by means of two perforated bars being
used for each tier of warp threads, each warp thread being passed through two
perforations standing opposite to each other. So that each thread passes through
two bars instead of through one, as herein-before described, and each bar acting
independently of the other can be made to rise or fall one gait to the right or left
as required to produce the nets and finings before described. In this case the
perforations are two gaits long and two methods of operating are shown in diagrams
Figures 5 and 6.
My invention can also be carried out on a curtain machine, or on a machine in
which the warp threads are Jacked. Diagram Figure 7 shows a cut of wheels by
means of which I carry out my invention on a curtain machine or on a machine in
which the threads are Jacked.
When the carriages are in the front of the machine the guide bar moves to the
right hand one gait, the pickers are then selected and moved into position between
the warp threads. The carriages then return to the back of the machine and the
picker-bar is moved one gait to the right hand thus taking those threads with
which the pickers come in contact into the second gait, the other threads returning
to the dead stop by the action of the guide bar which falls to the left hand one
gait. The carriages are again brought into the front combs. At this motion the
picker bar falls one gait to the left hand and at the same time the pickers are
taken out of position, that is out of the warp threads. At the fourth motion the
picker bar is kept out of position thus allowing the warp threads, by the action of
the guide bar falling one gait to return to their original position, for a repetition of
the above described movements The action of these bars may be slightly varied to
produce the same results.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed
by the said William Birks Junior in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
22nd December 1883.
WILLIAM BIRKS Junior of the Town and County of the Town of Nottingham
Lace Manufacturer "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF LACE
"
My improvements consist in the manufacture of an imitation of an expensive
and superior class of lace known as "Pusher" lace.
The best qualities of "Pusher" lace require a great number of motions varying
from 80 to 120 motions of the machine to produce one hole of net with its
accompanying open work and fining, so that the production is necessarily slow
being diminished by the number of motions required for each hole and when the
lace has been made upon the machine it has to be embroidered or thick-threaded
by hand or other means thus adding to the expense and loss of time in the
production of the lace known as "Pusher" lace. The object of my improvement
is to produce an imitation which shall be equal in appearance to the lace
hereinbefore spoken of and to produce the said imitation by my improvements at
a relatively enormous reduction of motions, on "Levers ог Go-through" lace
machines by which means I am able to produce the said lace at three or four times
the speed which is possible on the "Pusher" machine, and I have the additional
advantage of being able to embroider or thick-thread the lace as it is woven on the
"Levers or "Go-through" machine.
"
"
"
The net or ground-work of lace made according to my invention has the
appearance of being twisted all round the hole, or of the threads of which such
net is made being twisted around each other in the cross ties as well as in the
upright pillars. This gives to the lace made according to my invention a much
closer resemblance to certain classes of hand made lace. The fining or pattern
portion of the lace is varied or shaded light and heavy as may be required for the
pattern, the heavy fining resembling in appearance what is known as double
gimping or weaving thereby giving to the lace made according to my invention a
close resemblance to Spanish and other laces made by hand.
Hitherto imitations of "Pusher" lace have been made to imitate light or
inferior qualities of such lace requiring for this purpose a double warp, that is, two
warp threads to each bobbin thread. My improvements enable me to produce an
imitation of "Pusher" lace of so superior a quality as to be scarcely distinguishable
from the best qualities of "Pusher "lace for which purpose I require only a single
warp or one warp thread for each bobbin thread; thus showing a great advantage
over previous attempts to imitate "Pusher" lace.
For the purpose of carrying out my invention I use any sort of lace machine
which has or may have an arrangement of top and bottom bars. I use four
perforated bars or stump bars or their equivalent to govern the position of the
warp threads. Each of the said bars has a series of perforations through which
the warp threads are passed after being passed through perforations in the bottom
bars. Each perforation in the aforesaid bars is to be two gaits long and such
perforations are to be alternated with blank spaces of two gaits each as shown in
diagram Figure I.
When these four perforated or stump bars are in position in the machine with
the
warp threads passed through them the threads constitute what is known in
the Trade as a single warp or one warp thread to each bobbin. It is possible to
use two perforated bars instead of four but not with the same advantage.
In carrying out my invention I give to the before named two or four
perforated bars an uniform action as follows:-at the first motion when the

page_text: carriages are in the front combs the bars are made to rise one gait, that is a lateral
motion to the right is given to the said bars to the extent of one gait and at the
second motion when the carriages are in the back combs the perforated bars return
to their original position. If the bottom bars are kept down to the left hand or in
other words if no motion be given to the bottom bars, the continuous action of the
two or four perforated bars as described above will twist each warp thread round
its own particular bobbin thread.
In carrying out my invention I keep the bottom bars down to the left hand at
the first motion of the machine and take the 2 or 4 perforated bars up one gait to
the right. At the second motion I take the bottom bars up to the right during
which movement they meet the 2 or 4 perforated bars to which I give a fall of one
gait thus placing the warp threads up two gaits to the right hand on the
completion of the second motion. At the third motion of the machine I bring the
bottom bars down to their original position, meeting the two or 4 perforated bars
as the latter rise one gait, consequently the warp threads can only fall one gait.
At the fourth motion of the machine the bottom bars remain down in their original
position whilst the 2 or 4 perforated bars fall one gait thus allowing the warp
threads to return to their original (or starting) point. A continuous repetition of
these movements will produce the before mentioned heavy fining.
It will be seen by the foregoing description of my invention that the bottom bars
are taken up to the right hand only once in each four motions of the machine and
that is at the second motion. If however they are taken up at the fourth motion
instead of the second the result is the same as that herein described. These
movements may be reversed if necessary, that is the traverse of the bars may be
from right to left instead of from left to right as herein described.
By the application of the well known principles of draughting to the invention
just described the light or half finings, the openworks and nets are produced. I
can also produce the class of lace herein described by top bars alone as shown in
Figure II instead of by top and bottom bars as herein described but I do not
obtain from that method all the advantages which I obtain from the method which
I have before described in detail.
The peculiar character and appearance of the net herein described as having the
appearance of being "twisted all round the hole" is gained by employing four
motions of the machine to each net tie as shown in diagram Figure 2.
In carrying out this part of my invention all the material for making net ties
and finings is drawn off the bobbins and I put sufficient weight on the warps as
may be necessary for the purpose of enabling them to assist, by their increased
tension to pull the required amount of material off the bobbins.
When making the class of lace herein described in part, or altogether of floss silk
I use only two perforated bars or their equivalents and make the perforations only
one gait long as at present is the case in making ordinary lace. My reason for
using perforations of one gait is to produce certain effects by holding the twist off
when required for the introduction of back and front gimps in combination with
the before mentioned nets and finings and also to retain the brilliancy of the silk
by holding some twist off the net which cannot be accomplished by the first
described arrangement of bars. These two bars have one uniform action as shown in
diagrams Figures 3 and 4.
My improvements can also be effected by means of two perforated bars being used
for each tier of warp threads, each warp thread being passed through two
perforations standing opposite to each other, so that each thread passes through
two bars instead of through one as herein before described and each bar acting
independently of the other can be made to rise or fall one gait to the right or left
as required to produce the nets and finings before described.
In this case
the perforations are two gaits long and two methods of operating are shown in
diagrams Figures 5 and 6.
My invention can also be carried out on a curtain machine, or on a machine in
which the warp threads are Jacked. Diagram Figure 7 shows a cut of wheels by

page_text: means of which I carry out my invention on a curtain machine or on a machine in
which the threads are jacked.
When the carriages are in the front of the machine the guide-bar moves to the
right hand one gait, the pickers are then selected and moved into position between
the warp threads. The carriages then return to the back of the machine and the
picker-bar is moved one gait to the right hand thus taking those threads with
which the pickers come in contact into the second gait, the other threads returning
to the dead stop by the action of the guide bar which falls to the left hand one
At this motion the
gait. The carriages are again brought into the front combs.
picker bar falls one gait to the left hand and at the same time the pickers are
taken out of position, that is, out of the warp threads. At the fourth motion the
picker bar is kept out of position thus allowing the warp threads, by the action
of the guide-bar falling one gait, to return to their original position for a repetition
of the above described movements. The action of these bars may be slightly
varied to produce the same results.
Having thus described the nature of the said Invention and the mode in which
the same may be carried into effect I would have it understood that what I
claim is:-
The improvements in the manufacture of lace in imitation of "Pusher" Lace
substantially as herein described.
In witness whereof I the said William Birks Junior have hereunto set my
hand and seal this Twenty first day of December in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and eighty three
WILLIAM BIRKS JNB (L.S.)