Improvements in Velvets and similar Cut Pile Fabrics.
Year: 1892

page_text: Date of Application, 30th July, 1892
Complete Specification Left, 24th Apr., 1893-Accepted, 27th May, 1893
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Velvets and similar Cut Pile Fabrics.
J, ALFRED RILEY, of Green Bank, Roebuck Lane, Sale, in the County of
Chester, Merchant, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as
follows:-
The invention relates more particularly to fabrics intended to be used for
hangings trimmings and like purposes though it may also be applied to other
purposes and in other ways that may be found desirable.
In the manufacture of velvets and velveteens it has hitherto been customary to
weave the cloth with a face in which certain of the picks or weft threads are
floated over the warps which when subsequently slit by the cutter forms the pile
and with a plain hard back either twilled or otherwise.
My invention consists essentially of a velvet or similar weft pile fabric with a
face or pile on both sides of the cloth.
"
In carrying out the invention the cloth is woven with both sides alike or with
two faces, pile threads or picks being thrown up or floated over the warps on the
top and bottom so as to form the "races for cutting each clear throughout its
length without obstruction. The races are formed on the opposite sides of the
cloth by alternate threads so that in the cutting to form the pile alternate threads
are cut which prevents the drawing out or starving of the pile on either side.
The material when thus woven is subjected to the operation of cutting in the
usual way first on one face or side and then on the other and it is also finished
to leave the pile standing on both sides.
A cloth thus produced will have considerable advantage over the ordinary
one sided cloths, it hangs better and fuller; it is richer in appearance and feel; it
obviates the necessity of lining on one side of the cloth; and in trimmings it can
be used with more economy and to greater advantage.
Doind th; 20% dor of Lul., 1802
WM. P. THOMPSON & Co.,
6, Bank Street, Manchester, Patent Agents.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Velvets and similar Cut Pile Fabrics.
I, ALFRED RILEY, of Green Bank, Roebuck Lane, Sale, in the County of
Chester, Merchant, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement:-
My invention relates to the manufacture of fabrics intended to be used for
hangings, trimmings and like purposes, but it may also be applied to other uses and
in other ways that it may be found desirable.
In the manufacture of velvets, velveteens, and plushes it has hitherto been the
custom to weave the cloth with all the pile picks floated on one side only and with
a plain or twilled back.
My invention consists essentially of a velvet or similar weft pile fabric with a
face or pile on both sides of the cloth.
I carry out my invention by employing in the weaving alternate weft threads,
except those used for binding and known as "binders"; for each of the two sides
of the cloth, and these weft threads are so floated under and over the warp as to
produce races on both sides of the cloth.

page_text: The fabric when thus woven is subjected to the usual cutting operation and is cut
first on one side and then on the other, and it is also finished by the finisher, to
leave a pile on both sides.
My invention applies to all and various arrangements of the weft threads crossing
under and over the warp threads and I give drawings of three arrangements to
shew the nature of and the manner in which my invention is carried out.
A cloth thus produced will have considerable advantage when used for certain
purposes over the ordinary one sided cloth, for hangings it hangs better and fuller
and obviates the necessity of lining, and for trimmings it can be used with more
economy and to greater advantage.
In my drawings, Figs. 1, 2 and 3, the perpendicular lines which are numbered 1
to 6 in Fig. 1, and 1 to 8 in Fig. 2, and 1 to 10 in Fig. 3 are to represent the warp
threads. The cross lines or horizontal lines which are numbered 1 to 14 in Fig. 1,
1 to 18 in Fig. 2, and 1 to 12 in Fig. 3 are to represent the weft threads. The
slashes placed diagonally across the junctions of the perpendicular and crossed
lines are to denote the lifting of the warp threads and each slash denotes that
that particular warp thread which it crosses is lifted by the heald or hook for
that particular weft thread which it also crosses to pass underneath it.
I also give with each of the three drawings a set of three sectional diagrams, the
first set marked A, B and C belong to Fig. 1, the second set marked D, E and F
belong to Fig. 2, and the third set marked G, H, and I belong to Fig. 3, and are
all placed at the foot of the figs. to which they belong, and these nine diagrams
are all placed so that each ring or ball is immediately in front of the particular
warp thread line which it has to represent. The rope lines in these diagrams
represent the weft thread, the use of these diagrams is to more clearly shew
than the slashes in the drawings can be made to shew the particular manner in
which the weft thread travels under and over the warp threads.
In Fig. 1 shew an arrangement or design employing six warp threads_and
fourteen weft threads. Of these fourteen weft threads twelve are used for
forming the pile floats and the remaining two are used for binding the cloth and are
called and known as "binders."
In Fig. 21 shew an arrangement employing eight warp threads and eighteen
weft threads, sixteen of which weft threads are used for forming the pile floats and
the remaining two are used as binders.
In Fig. 3 shew an arrangement employing ten warp threads and twelve weft
threads ten of which weft threads are used for forming the pile floats and the
remaining two as binders, and the particular manner in which the whole of the
weft threads in these three arrangements are deployed will be understood from my
following explanations.
Having so far described the nature of my drawings I will now recite in detail
the weave or passage of each separate weft thread under and over each of the
warp threads employed in each of the three arrangements, and for convenience I
shall call each weft thread a pick, and in this recital I shall read from left to right
of the up or warp thread lines.
Referring to the first arrangement, Fig. 1 there are six warp threads employed
and are numbered one to six, under and over which the fourteen weft threads pass
in the following fashion, the first pick passes under four warp threads, over one and
then under one; the second pick passes over one, under one and over four; the
third pick passes under two, over one and under three; the fourth pick passes over
five and under one; the fifth pick passes over one and under five; the sixth pick
passes over three, under one and over two; the seventh pick is a binder and passes
under one, over one, then under one and over one, and again under one and over
one the eighth pick is a repetition of the first, as the ninth pick is of the second,
and the tenth of the third, the eleventh of the fourth, the twelfth of the fifth, and
the thirteenth of the sixth; the fourteenth pick is a binder and passes over one
and under one, then over one and under one, and again over one and under one;
this completes the number one arrangement, and the three diagrams A, B and C

page_text: illustrate the description I have given as far down as the first, second and third
picks.
Referring to the second arrangement Fig. 2 there are eight warp threads
employed which are numbered one to eight, over and under which the eighteen weft
threads pass in the following fashion, the first pick passes under six warp threads
and over one and then under one; the second pick passes over three and under one,
and over four; the third pick passes under four, over one and under three; the
fourth pick over one, under one and over six; the fifth pick under two, over one
and under five; the sixth pick passes over seven and under one; the seventh pick
over one and under seven; the eighth pick over five, under one and over two, and
the ninth pick is a binder and passes over one and under one, then over one and
under one, and again over one and under one, and over one and under one; the
tenth pick is a repetition of the first, as the eleventh is of the second, the twelfth
of the third, the thirteenth of the fourth, the fourteenth of the fifth, the fifteenth
of the sixth, the sixteenth of the seventh, and the seventeenth of the eighth, the
eighteenth pick is a binder and passes under one and over one, then under one and
over one, and again under one and over one, and under one and over one; this
completes the number two arrangement, and the D, E and F diagrams illustrate
the first three picks.
Referring to the third arrangement Fig. 3, there are ten warp threads employed
which are numbered one to ten, and under and over which the twelve weft threads
pass in the following fashion, the first pick passes under eight warp threads, then
over one and under one, the second pick over one, then under one and over eight;
the third pick over one, then under nine; the fourth pick over three, under one
and over six; the fifth pick under two, over one and under seven; the sixth pick
is a binder and passes over one and under one, then over one and under one, and
again over one and under one, and over one and under one, and over one and under
one; the seventh pick passes over five and under one and over four; the eighth
pick under four, over one and under five; the ninth pick over seven, under one and
over two; the tenth pick under six, over one and under three; the eleventh pick
passes over nine and under one; the twelfth pick is a binder and passes under one
and over one, then under one and over one, again under one and over one, and under
one and over one, and under one and over one; this completes number three
arrangement and the diagrams G, H and I illustrate the first, second and third
picks.
The diagram J illustrates a plain binder where the weft thread passes under one
and over one, and under one and over one and so on in succession, and in diagrams K
and L, I illustrate a weft thread passing under and over the warp threads in such
a manner as to perform the double object of making floats and also of making
bindings, and this is performed as will be seen from the said diagrams K and L, by
the weft thread passing over a number of consecutive warp threads and then
passing under one and over one, and again under one and then over further number
of consecutive warp threads as per K diagram or by the weft thread passing under
a number of consecutive warp threads and then passing over one and under one,
and again over one and then under further number of consecutive warp threads as
per diagram L, and any practicable number of consecutive warp threads can be
adopted for the float and it will thus he seen that the weft performs the pile float
in passing over the consecutive warp threads and that it produces the binding in
the cloth when it passes under one and over one, and under one or over one, under
one and over one; in employing this weave or weft thread arrangement all the
picks in the repeat of the arrangement can be passed through the warp threads in
this manner, but under different sets or selections of warp threads for the different
picks comprised in the repeat according to the length of the pile float and the
nature of the design adopted, and when this weave of weft thread is employed such
binding picks as are shewn in diagram J and as appear in my drawings Figs. 1, 2
and 3, and therein described in my recital of same as binding picks, can be dispensed

page_text: with, as a fabric woven with only this kind of picks or weave is, after the process
of cutting, sufficiently fast in the pile, and are usually called fast pile fabrics.
The arrangement adopted in my drawings Figs. 1, 2 and 3 represent cach
alternate weft thread being appropriated to each side of the cloth, but it must be
understood that these can be varied and that the weft threads can, to meet special
requirements, be unequally spread over the two sides of the cloth or can be
regularly spread, but instead of alternate threads the threads can be alternated in
couples, half of the whole of the threads being floated on each side or a greater
number on one side than on the other, and so produce a richer pile on one side than
the other in preference to both sides being equal.
Sometimes velvets, velveteens, plushes and such fabrics are manufactured with
arrangements of inter-lacing the weft threads with the warp threads in such manner
or manners that when the fabric had been subjected to the cutting process, there
are, as a result of these special inter-lacing arrangements, figures raised on the face
of the cloth in pile, and these figures, geometrical or floral, can result either from
the race being formed in the weaving on the figured or flowered part of the cloth,
or from its being formed from that portion of the cloth which is intended to be the
ground, by which is meant the intermediate space between the figures, but if the
race is formed on the figured portion the ground will be woven plain or twilled
or satin and have no race, or if the race is formed on the ground and intended to
raise the ground in pile the figure portion will be woven twilled, or plain or satin,
and have no race, the arrangements required, however, for the producing of these
effects are more elaborate and complicated than those required for plain velveteens,
et caetera, and are such both as to their mechanical appliances, and in the weaving
arrangements, that it would be impossible to here illustrate their arrangements by
drawings or by detailed description, but the principal involved in my invention
applies equally to these so called fancy velvets, velveteens and plushes as it docs to
plain velvets, velveteens and plushes, and in fact, applies to all cloths or fabrics or
woven articles whether made of cotton, linen, silk, woollen or other material or
union of other materials used for the making of such articles which have hitherto
been woven with the weft floated to form races or cutting on one side of the cloth
only.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
A velvet, velveteen or plush with the weft so floated as to form races on both
sides of the cloth and which races may be cut and so produce a pile on both sides
of the cloth instead of and as an improvement upon those cloths which heretofore
have had the pile only on one side.
Dated this 22nd day of April 1893.
WM. P. THOMPSON & Co.,
Manchester, Liverpool, and London, Patent Agents.