Improvements in Shoes and Fastening Devices therefor.
Year: 1899

page_text: Date of Application, 7th Nov., 1899-Accepted, 13th Jan., 1900
Improvements in Shoes and Fastening Devices therefor.
A communication from THE GATES LACING HOOK COMPANY, of Wilmington,
County of Newcastle and State of Delaware, in the United States of
America,.
I, ALFRED JULIUS BOULT, of 111, Hatton Garden, in the County of Middlesex,
Chartered Patent Agent, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in
what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement:-
Those improvements consist of a novel and improved form of lacing hook or
fastener, a new and useful lacing border or edge, an improved form of lacing
cord fustener, and the combination of these with a boot or shoe or like article.
In the accompanying drawings:
Fig. 1 is a front view of part of a shot provided with these improvements.
Fig. 2 is an enlarged cross section on line 2-2 Fig. 1.
Fig. 3 is a perspective view of one of the lacing hooks or fasteners detached.
Fig. 4 is a sectional view on line 44, Fig. 3.
Figs. 5-10 inclusive represent the lacing cord fastener (shown also in Fig. 1)
for securing the ends of the lace.
The fastener A, which is preferably made from sheet metal, consists of an
integral, tripod-like article which comprises three essential parts the oblong
plate 6, the front limb or member a, and the slotted tube . The oblong
plate stands inclined upward and forward from its rear edge or side upon
which it rests as representing the two rear limbs of the tripod, and its upper
edge constitutes the line of elevation (6) of the terrace or ridge of the lacing
border. The front limb a is bent forward and downward to stand at the desired
angle with the plate b. The slotted tube a is the scrolled-up foot of the exposed
limb a', and the slot a³ thereinto is preferably of a size a little less than the
diameter of the lacing cord under ordinary circumstances, so that the cord has
to be slightly flattened as it is crowded thereinto and when it has once entered
the shielded hook and resumed its normal shape it will fill practically the entire
space enclosed by the hook, and will close the opening a³, so that it will be diffi-
cult or impossible for the cord to accidentally escape from the hook, or for the
hook to catch upon anything, such as the clothing of the wearer. The free edge
of the hook proper is relatively long and substantially straight from end to end
and approaches so close to the face of the part a¹ as to slightly impede the free
passage of the cord into and out of the shielded hook. The opening a³ into
the slotted tube is relatively long and is straight from end to end. The lateral
extremes or ends proper of the slotted tube or shielded hook are provided with
outwardly curved flanges e to insure smooth, rounded bearings for the lacing
cord, and also, by strengthening the hook itself, to enable the use of quite thin
and inexpensive material in the manufacture; which is still further economized
by forming them of soft sheet steel and then tempering them, like steel pens.

page_text: The fastener A is preferably japanned, but in order to still further utilize the
outwardly turned flanges c of the cylindrical ends of the slotted tube a³, and to
secure a smoother and more durable finish around the latter, it is preferred to
fill out said flanges with celluloid or other plastic material d, so that the lacing
cord will not be cut or seriously worn thereby as it is brought into and out of
engagement with the hooks.
The plates 6 of the fastener being relatively long, distribute the lacing force
evenly to the whole border, which is thereby free from local stretching, and the
usual reinforcement of the border is dispensed with. The exposed limb or
part a may be slightly swelled or rounded out laterally which will present an
ornamental appearance on the shoe and constitute also the slight shoulders e
which being drawn to place through the slot g somewhat tightly will not slip
back by accident.
In forming a lacing border-as for a shoe-as represented in Figures 1 and 2,
the upper is beaded at front and top, the back is seamed up, the slots are punched,
and then after making the lining to correspond, the two backs are attached
together. The line of stitching o is then run through the upper and lining
just in front of each row of slots and, turning the upper inside out, the slotted
tubes are hooked only into the slots g. Righting the upper, the beaded edges
are stitched, the vamp is attached, and then, with a loop of linen thread, or pre-
ferably of fine wire mounted like a button-hook loop, each hook is brought
into its true position, with the stay-shoulders e of the part or limb a' through
the slots g, and the plates b up against the seam o, thereby forming the terrace
of the border, which is continuous, since the plates 6 of the fasteners approach
each other closely, leaving only sufficient space between them to prevent them
from interfering with one another. And when such lacing borders are brought
together, edge to edge, there is formed a depression or recess or channel between
the opposite seams o, in which depression are situated the hooks or exposed
parts of the fasteners, which are thereby in a large measure shielded and pro-
tected.
The lacing cord fastener shown in Figs. 1, 5-10, is one composed of a base
and a body which are detachably interlocked with each other, the combination
and arrangement being such that when the device is applied to the border of
the shoe, the two parts will interlock not only with each other but also with
the border, thus at one operation and by the same means locking the parts
together and securing them to the border.
Fig. 5 is a plan of the complete device.
Figs. 6 and 7 are perspective views of the two parts of the device separated
from one another.
Fig. 8 is a section on line 8-8.
Fig. 9 is a section on line 9-9.
Fig. 10 is a view illustrative of the manner of applying the device to the lac-
ing border and of interlocking its parts with each other and with the lacing
border.
The fastener is composed of two interlocking parts the body B, and the
base B', shown separately in Figs. 6 and 7. The body B is cross-like in form
and is composed of two limbs or bars m, n, rigidly secured together, the two
crossing one another at about right angles, and the limb boing superposed
upon the limb m. The part m is a flat cross bar of rectangular cross section,
whose ends m¹, m³ are adapted to catch under and interlock with the side bars f
of the base B', as hereinafter described. The cross bar m has preferably formed
near its end m³, a shoulder m³ by means of which the cross piece B is prevented
from slipping to one side in the base B¹. The superposed part n has at its upper
end a hook-like portion z on its under side and its opposite end is flared or curved
outwardly or upwardly to facilitate the passage of the cord into position in
the fastener. The base B¹ is a flat rectangular skeleton spring frame, preferably
made of spring steel, having formed in its side burs recesses y, y¹, for reception

page_text: "
of the ends m³, m³, of the cross bar n, and having also a spring tongue s, which
extends across the frame from one end bar to the other, being attached to or
integral with one of said end bars as shown, and slightly overlapping the oppo-
site end bar.
The fastener is applied to the lacing border between the upper and the lining
of the shoe. In addition to the front slot 9 in the upper at the lacing border
there is formed in the upper a second slot gl say about a quarter of an inch in
rear of the slot 9. The base B is placed between the upper and lining of the
shoe and is brought to a position in which its recessed part y' will project through
the front slot g in the border, while its recessed part y will be directly in rear
of the slot g¹. Next the rear end m² of the bar m is inserted through the rear
slot g¹ in the border and is pushed rearwardly beneath the recessed base B¹, far
enough to bring the front end m of the said bar m back of the front recessed
part of the base B' which projects through the front slot g¹ in the upper. The
parts are shown in this position in Fig. 10. Then by pressing downward and
forward upon the body B, the front end m³ of bar m will be pushed forward
upon the body B, the front end m¹ of the bar m will be pushed forward and
under the recessed part yl and both ends m' and m³ will be sprung simultaneously
into place, with the effect not only of interlocking the two parts of the fastener
with each other, but of interlocking the fastener as a whole with the lacing
border, as will be readily understood by reference to Fig. 9 without further
explanation.
This manner of applying the fastener is permitted by the spring-like character
of the base, its side bars, as well as its central tongues, being spring yielding.
By the same spring action the parts of the fastener when once fitted into place
are held most securely together and to the upper, while at the same time they
are sufficiently adjustable to each other to permit the easy entrance of the lacing
cord, and its being wrapped around the angular central part formed by the
intersection of the two portions m n of the body B.
The device can be used as a right or left hand fastener as desired. In order
to increase its holding effect upon the cord, it is preferred to locate the body B
so that the front edge of its limb shall be about in line with the rear edge of
the front side bar of the base B'; and as the former lies superposed above the
latter at a distance slightly less than the thickness of the lacing cord, a slight
flattening of the cord must result at the point where it enters and leaves the
fastener. The pinching action also takes place during the passage of the cord
past the hook-like projection 2, on the limb n, which projection serves to retain
the cord in its position upon the fastener.
Secured in place by the interlocking of its parts with one another and with
the upper, with its broad base at the front resting against the seam o of the
lacing border, the fastener is held most firmly. The end of the lacing cord
is 'entered first behind the hook end of the limb », and then in crooked angular
course around the central part of the body B, and thence finally back again
between the hook end of the limb n, and the upper. In this way the cord is
held most securely and tightly without possibility of slip.
A lacing cord cylindrical in cross section is preferred for the reason, among
others, that the important element of uniform thickness is always obtainable
in lacings of that shape.
While these improvements are primarily intended for use in laced boots and
shoes, still they may be applied to gloves, or to other articles where a lacing
cord, and fasteners which are engaged thereby, are employed to unite two parts.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said in-
vention as communicated to me by my foreign correspondents and in what
manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I claim is:-
1. A lacing hook or fastener A formed essentially of two parts or members
inclined relatively to each other whereby when the fastener rests upon the

page_text: edges of such parts or members, its central portion is elevated, and a hook_in-
tegral with and carried by one of said parts at its lower edge, substantially as
set forth and illustrated in Figures 1-4 of the accompanying drawing.
2. A lacing hook or fastener comprising the upward and forward inclined
plate b, the downward and forward inclined limb a and the hook proper a³,
substantially as herein shown and described.
3. A lacing hook or fastener, provided with a hook proper in the form of
a slotted tube or cylinder having at its cylindrical ends outward curved flanges c
and a covering for the cylinder, said flanges assisting in holding said covering
in place and serving to strengthen the hook and to form rounded bearings at
the ends thereof, substantially as set forth.
4. A lacing hook comprising an upward and forward inclined plate b, a down-
ward and forward inclined limb a¹, together constituting a tripod-like support,
the part being provided with the shoulders e, and a hook proper a, substan-
tially as set forth.
5. A laced shoe provided on either border of the lacing opening with a series
of lacing hooks, the bases of which are confined within the suid borders and
are elevated relatively to the hooks proper, whereby when the shoe is laced the
hooks proper are situated in a channel or recess bounded by the raised portions
of the lacing borders, substantially as described, and illustrated in Figures 1
and 2 of the drawings.
G. A lacing cord fastener consisting of a body of cross-like shape, adapted to
be applied to one face of the border or upper and composed of superposed limbs
or members having an angular path for the lacing cord at the point where they
cross one another, and a spring-acting base adapted to be applied to the oppo-
site face of said border or upper and to be interlocked with the said body and
the said border or upper, substantially as herein before described and illustrated
in Figures 1, 5–10 of the accompanying drawings.
Dated this 7th day of November 1899.
BOULT, WADE & KILBURN,
Agents for the Applicant.