Improvements in Embroidering Machines.
Year: 1897

page_text: Date of Application, 24th Aug., 1897-Accepted, 24th Aug., 1898
Improvements in Embroidering Machines.
We, ANTOINE BASTIE and JEAN BAPTISTE BASTIE, of Rue Grande, Tarare
Rhone, in the Republic of France, Embroiderers, do hereby declare the nature
of this invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be par-
ticularly described, and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
This invention relates to embroidering machines in principle the same as those
described sufficiently in the preamble to the Specification of Letters Patent
6053 of 1893 and which it will not be necessary to repeat here, and consists in
improvements whereby the shuttles carrying the embroidering threads can be
rapidly and automatically changed for the purpose of rendering the different
color effects of the embroidery.
In this machine also the frame carrying the fabric is operated by means of an
improved Jacquard mechanism having a limited number of needles or rods and
the perforated paper or Jacquard cards can be consequently considerably reduced
in width without affecting the design and a considerable length for instance one
meter and twenty centimeters can be embroidered in the vertical direction of
the fabric without disturbing the fabric on the frame. In the present machine
moreover the fabric is operated on by two sets of needles and shuttles the one
set arranged vertically above the other.
In the annexed drawings:-Fig. 1 is a front view of the machine. Fig. 2 is
a portion of the back view of the machine. Fig. 3 is a side view. Fig. 4 is an
enlarged side view of part of the machine showing the arrangement of the driving
gear. Fig. 5 is a vertical section on line B¹ C¹ of Fig. 4. Fig. 6 is a plan view
of Fig. 4. Figs. 7 and 8 represent an enlarged section on line A. B of Fig. 1
and of which Fig. 7 shows the arrangement of the needle carriers and of the
apparatus operating them and the thread feed, and Fig. 8 shows the arrangement
of the shuttles and of the thread looping hooks. Figs. 9 and 10 show plan views
of Figs. 7 and 8 respectively. Fig. 9" is an enlarged front view of a portion of
the thread feed apparatus and of the needle carriers. Figs. 11, 12 and 13 show
details of the apparatus operating the fabric frame and of which Fig. 13 is an
enlarged view of part of the front elevation of the apparatus, and indicated by C
Fig 1. Fig. 11 is a side elevation of Fig. 13 and Fig. 12 is a sectional view of
Fig. 13 on the line xy. Fig. 14 is a front view of the Jacquard mechanism for
operating the apparatus controlling the frame on which the fabric to be em-
broidered is stretched. Fig. 15 is a side view partly in section of the Jacquard
mechanism. Fig. 16 is a plan view partly in section thereof.
The same reference letters and numbers indicate the same parts in the different
figures.
The operation of this machine being divided into several distinct phases it
will be preferable to describe each part of the machine according to these phases,
thus indicating the connection, which the different parts of the machine have with
one another.
Operation of the Needle Carriers. We will describe the machine in movement
and we. will take as a starting point the moment when the frame carrying the

page_text: fabric is stationary and when the needles are entering the fabric. The mechanism
giving the movement to the needles starts from a cam disk 4 (Figs. 4, 5, 6) keyed
on the shaft 1. This shaft 1 carrying at its extremity at the right the general
driving pulley 100 is mounted on a special framing B fixed against the framing A
on the right hand side of the machine; see Fig. 3. A roller 111 moves and
revolves in a groove 103 of the disk 4. This roller is mounted on a pivot at the
under extremity of a connecting rod 13, transferring the movement to the two
stories carrying the two sets of needles and shuttles of the machine by means of
the levers u Fig. 3 to the respective ends of which it is connected in a pivoted
manner. These levers u have their other ends keyed at the right hand extremi-
ties of the bars 60 which are mounted in bearings supported by fixed cross bars a
connecting the two supporting frames A Fig. 1 at the right and left of the
machine. On the bars 60 (Figs. 1, 7, 8, 9) there are fixed at intervals levers 61
each connected by a connecting rod 62 with a slide 63 moving in guides on the
cross bar a.
It is on these slides 63 and at the opposite extremity to the connecting rod 62
that the needle carriers 64 are respectively secured. These needle carriers extend
across the machine and have notches at intervals for instance every 4 centimeters
in which the needles 200 are fixed by means of a cap or clamp 201 operated by
a screw 202 (Figs. 7 to 10).
Presser Feet. Below the needle carriers 64 there are arranged presser feet 65
one corresponding with each needle. These presser feet are mounted so as to
slide in a bracket a¹ Fig. 7 attached to the cross bar a. They are drawn back-
wards during the withdrawing movement of the needles by abutment screws 65ª
against which the back of the needle carrier abuts.
Operation of the Needles and Presser Feet. When the needles 200 operated
by the above described mechanism have commenced to enter the fabric 203, the
presser feet bear upon the fabric, being drawn forwards by springs 65°, with
which they are each provided. At this moment the thread slack feed, that is to
say the mechanism for giving to the thread the necessary liberty or slackness
for allowing the advance of the needle into the fabric, comes into operation as
hereinafter described and forms the loop, which is seized by the hook in order
to facilitate the passage of the shuttle also as hereinafter described.
Thread Slack Feed. The operation of this part is also effected by means of the
cam disk 4 which carries on its left surface a groove 104 (Fig. 5) in which a
roller 112 engages. This roller 112 is pivoted at the lower end of the connect-
ing rod 14, transferring the operation to the two stories of the machine by means
of the levers v (of which only the lower one is shown in Fig. 3) which are pivoted
at their outer ends to the rod 14. These levers have their opposite ends keyed
at the right hand extremities respectively of the bars 68 Fig. 7 which bars
oscillate in brackets supported by the cross bars a. On these bars 68 there are
fixed at intervals levers 69 which carry at their upper extremities a hollow bar 77
which crosses them all and over which the thread is passed. This mechanism
constitutes the thread feed and take up. During the movement of the needles,
hooks, and shuttles, the above described mechanism causes the levers 69 to move
towards the fabric and return to their starting, point and consequently the bars 77
are oscillated together with the whole mechanism which the arms 69 carry
(Figs. 7, 8).
During the forward movement of the needles into and their return from the
fabric, the thread will be held gripped, so that it has the same length after the
return of the needle to its starting point in order that the loop of the thread
of the shuttle may be drawn through to the back of the fabric (i.e. that side nearer
the needle carrier) and the needle thread will not appear on the face of the finished,
fabric. The levers 69 carry for this purpose mechanism for holding or gripping
the thread.
Thread Grip. This mechanism is as follows:-Flat rods 73 (Figs. 7 & 8) are
fixed on the levers 69, these rods carry at distances of every four centimeters a

page_text: thread guide 74 and a thread grip 72 which can slide in or through the rods 73.
This thread grip is provided with a spring which tends to draw the head 72"
against the rod and this head presses against and holds the thread passing under
it. It is guided thence by the fingers 74.
Operation of the Thread Grips. The thread grips 72 are driven from a cam
disc 2 keyed on the shaft 1 (Figs. 5-6). On this cam there moves a roller 161
pivoted to the vertical branch of an angular lever 10. This lever oscillates on
à gudgeon on the frame B. The horizontal branch of the lever 10 is connected
by a connecting rod 11 (Fig. 1) to the one end of a lever 12 pivoted on an axle
arranged on the framing A. The left hand extremity of this lever presses on a
hook 162 fixed to a connecting rod 163 which transfers the movement to the two
stories by means of levers 164 165 to which it is pivoted (Fig. 1). These levers
are keyed respectively at the right hand extremities of the bars 70 which have
rotary bearing loosely in the levers 69, Fig. 7 so that they can be oscillated therein.
These bars 70 are each provided along their whole length with a groove in each
of which there is fixed a blade 71 against which the thread grips 72 press under
the action of their springs and when the bars 70 are oscillated these blades 71
push back the thread grips, after the needles have left the fabric and returned to
their starting point, and whilst the needle carriers and the thread feed and take
up are stationary in the position indicated in Fig. 7. During this stationary
position of the needle, carriers and the thread feed and take up and whilst the
thread grips are also out of action the frame carrying the fabric is displaced and
the thread is drawn as far as the movement of the fabric frame require while it
is under the influence of the tension mechanism only; composed as follows:-
Thread Tension Mechanism. The threads start from bobbins 156 mounted
frictionally on pins 67 fixed at distances of four centimeters on a bar 66 Figs. 7
and 9 passing across the machine. This bar is fixed on the extremities of the
brackets carrying the shafts 60 and 68. From its bobbin each thread passes
round its finger 74 then under its tension hook 75, which passes through the
rod 73 and is pivoted therein and is under the tension of a spring 76 coiled round
the shaft 76 traversing all the levers 69 and which can turn in the one or the
other direction. The threads then pass between the grip 72 and the bar 73 and
rise over the bar 77 and from there each is carried to its corresponding needle.
1st Phase of the Operation. The apparatus above described operates as follows.
Whilst the needles enter the fabric, the threads are gripped or held by the thread
grips 72 against the bar 73; the levers 69 oscillate to the right (Fig. 7) moving
all the parts they carry; in consequence of this movement the finger 74 is moved
away from the bobbin 156 and the pivoted hook 75 is drawn upwards by the
thread owing to the friction of the bobbin on its pin.
-
The spring tension of the hook 75 is less than the friction of the bobbin, con-
sequently the hook 75 is first drawn up by the thread until it touches the thread
guide 74, after which thread will be drawn from the bobbin. During the return
stroke the hook 75 takes up the slack in the thread and it will be obvious there-
fore that the length of loose (unwound) thread from each bobbin will be the same
for each stroke whatever may have been the amount drawn by the previous
movement of the fabric frame, and that the movement of the fabric frame will
take of this maximum length of loose thread only so much as is needed by the
amplitude of the movement, such deduction lifting the hooks 75 more or less,
so that when the lever 69 again moves towards the fabric the hooks 75 will arrive
correspondingly sooner or later against the guide 74 and cause an amount of
thread to be then drawn from the bobbins to compensate exactly from the last
movement of the frame.
The movement of the arms 69 towards the needles has meanwhile given enough
temporary slack to the threads between the grips 72 and the needles to allow
for the passage of the needles and the formation of thread loops for the passage
of the shuttles.
Operation of the Looping Hooks. The mechanism giving the movement to

page_text: the hooks is operated by a cam disk 5 (Figs. 2, 5 and 6) keyed on the axle 1.
In a groove 105 provided on the left side of this disk, a roller 106 moves and is
pivoted to a sliding piece 107 which slides horizontally on the framing B. This
piece 107 is connected by a connecting rod 108 pivoted thereto at 113 with a
lever 114 keyed at the under extremity of a vertical axle 15 mounted in bearings
fixed on the framing A. This axle carries at the height of each story a lever
fixed at right angles with the lower lever 114 and receives oscillatory movement.
A connecting rod passes from these levers and is connected with slides 83 (Fig. 9).
passing from end to end of the machine. These slides are mounted to move in
brackets 78 fixed to the cross bars 6 which connect the right and left framings A
of the machine (Fig. 2). The rods 83 carry at distances of four centimeters
hooks 84 (Fig. 10) corresponding one with each needle.
2nd Phase. Movement of the Hooks. While the needles remain stationary
after having made the partial backward movement necessary for the formation
of the loop the hooks 84 advance driven by the before described mechanism.
They seize the thread and move intermittently for a distance of four centimeters,
the intermission being for the purpose of allowing the retirement from their path
of the levers 81 or 82 which have contact with the shuttles before and after
the hooks pass over or under them as the case may be. Whilst the levers 82
give passage to the hooks, the latter support the shuttles in passing. The
hooks 84 then remain stationary at the end of their course during the whole of
the time taken by the shuttles in passing through the loops that have been drawn
by the hooks; this constitutes the third phase of the movement.
3rd Phase. Operation of the Shuttles. The shuttles slide in vertical guiding
grooves 205 provided in the web 204 of the bracket 78 in the face of the latter
that lies opposite the fabric. The mechanism which operates them has as a
starting point a disk 8 (Figs. 4 and 6) keyed on an axle 6. This axle mounted
on the framing B is provided with a toothed wheel 7 which receives movement
from a pinion 3 of half the diameter keyed on the axle 1. By this means the
shuttles are given a down stroke during one needle stroke and an upstroke
during the next needle stroke. This disk 8 carries two cams 157 and 159 which
respectively operate rollers 158 and 160 mounted on pivots. The one of these
pivots is fixed at the under extremity of a connecting rod 18, the other at the
under extremity of a connecting rod 19. The connecting rod 18 transfers the
operation to the two stories of the machine by means of the levers on which it
is pivoted (Fig. 3). These levers & are mounted in bearings fixed to the framing A
and have prismatic holes at their fulcra to receive the prismatic bars 80. These
bars can slide in the lateral sense in the levers a without moving the latter laterally
for the purpose of moving the levers 82 from under the shuttles when it is
desired to allow the latter to fall out. The bars 80 are supported at intervals
and mounted in bearings fixed to the cross bar b (Figs. 9 and 10). These bars
carry at distances of every four centimeters the angular levers 82 which each
support a shuttle and transfer to the latter vertical movements initiated by
the disk 8. The connecting rod 19 transfers movement to the two stories of the
machine by means of the levers y to which it is pivoted. The levers y and the
bars 79 are mounted like the levers and the bars 80 (Figs. 2 and 3) and also
carry at distances of every four centimeters angular levers 81 accompanying the
shuttles in their movements (Figs. 9 and 10).
4th Phase. Return of the Hooks, Retreat of the Needles and Retraction of
the Thread. When the shuttles have made their descending or ascending move-
ment as the case may be operated by the before described mechanism the fourth
phase is produced. The hooks 84 return to their starting point with the inter-
mittent movement necessary for the retirement from their path of the levers 84
& 82. During this time, the mechanism of the thread feed acts as a take up
and draws the same back in proportion as the hooks retreat. The needles then
return to their starting point followed by the thread feed which is arranged after
again stretching the threads as at the commencement of the movement.
The

page_text: action of the thread grips is then stopped as has been described hereinbefore
during the movement of the fabric frame, which movement commences as soon
as these operations have been performed.
Thread Cutter. The mechanism for rapid change of the shuttles, comprises first
the thread cutters operated in the following manner: A rod 85 extending from
end to end of the machine, is mounted so as to slide in the bracket 78 (Fig. 9).
This rod carries at distances of every four centimeters knives, which are covered
or concealed during the operation of the machine by the material of the web 204
in which the slots which carry the shuttles are made. At this place a plate of
hardened steel is fixed against which the surface of the corresponding knife acts.
The ends of these knives nearly touch the surface of the web 204 in front of which
the fabric 203 passes. The end is bevelled on one side, in order to form an incline
on which the thread of the shuttle is guided when the knives are moved in the
one direction which has the effect of bringing the thread between the knife and
fixed steel plate, by movement of the knives in the opposite direction, the thread is
cut as by scissors.
The rods 85 are operated by means of hand levers a³ on shafts a¹ (Fig. 2) com-
municating with the two stories of the machine; a connecting rod connects each of
these levers with the corresponding rod 85
Replacing the Shuttles. When it is desired to replace the shuttles, which are
on the machine, by others during the operation of the machine, the new shuttles
are placed above the former shuttles in the upper parts of the shuttle grooves 205
in the web 204, the said grooves being lengthened for this purpose. They are
retained by a blade passing from end to end, in a groove 96 in the face of the
web 204 (Fig. 8) and carrying hooks corresponding with each shuttle. The end
of each shuttle is arrested under a spring arranged towards each groove 205. The
blades retaining the new shuttles are simultaneously operated by other hand
levers a² mounted similarly to those for operating the knives.
Displacement of the Shuttle Bars. The bars 79 and 80 can be displaced laterally
to the machine by means of hand levers 13 respectively (Fig. 2) the other arms of
these levers press on the bars. Connecting rods 12 14 are arranged to connect the
two stories. These bars are brought back to their normal position automatically
by means of springs.
Exchange of Shuttles. After having placed the new shuttles as before described
the threads of the old ones are cut by operating the rods 85 by means of their
lever a. The bars 80 are then displaced by lifting the handle 13. The lower
shuttles being no longer sustained fall into a groove arranged under the bracket 78.
The bar is allowed to return by releasing the handle 13. The lever l¹ and connect-
ing rod which correspond with the bars 80 and the handles a corresponding to
the blade in the groove 96 are then operated. The new shuttles fall into their
places. The lever is then released and the parts are in readiness for commencing
again with the new shuttles.
Displacement of the Upper Shuttle Bars. The upper bars 79 can be displaced
independently from one another and from any point of the machine by means of
the levers 61 Fig. 2 when it is necessary to remove one or more shuttles, without
changing them all together.
Fabric Frame and its Operation. The fabric frame ( Fig. 1 carries at its upper
and under part rollers which receive the fabric. It is controlled by the combina-
tion of two motions, a vertical motion communicate through chains 130, 131 and
a horizontal motion communicated through chains 139, 140 (Fig. 1).
Transmission of Movement to the Frame (horizontal direction). The rod 20 is
provided at its upper extremity with a counter weight 20° to which there is attached
a chain 131 which passes over a pulley 135 and is connected by a rod 136 to a
chain 140 passing over a pulley 138 and connected at its other end to a vertical
rod 141 (Fig. 1) which can slide horizontally, being guided by wheels 142 and 143
in grooves in the cross bars a. Another chain 139 passes from the rod 141 over a
pulley 137 and is attached to another counter weight balancing that fixed on the

page_text: top of the rod 20. The framing O carries slides which embrace the rods 141 in
order to allow the framing to slide vertically. This constitutes the mechanism for
the transmission of the movement of the frame O in the horizontal direction.
Transmission to the Frame, vertical direction. At the upper part of the rod 21
there is attached a chain 120 which passes then to the top of the machine on a
pulley d. This chain is then joined by another 131. The one 130 passes over a
pulley and the other 131 over a pulley d. Each of these chains is attached to
a cross bar p provided with guides on which the frame can slide horizontally, The
weight of the frame is balanced by a counter weight q Fig. 2 attached to the under
part of the rod 21 (Figs. 2 and 3). This constitutes the mechanism for the trans-
mission of the movement to the framing in the vertical direction and it will be
obvious therefore that the movements of the fabric frame O are completely governed
by suitable vertical movements given to the rods 20 and 21 respectively. The
mechanism giving these movements to the frame is operated by the driving
pulley 100 keyed on the shaft 1 (Figs. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6). This pulley carries
a pin 102 on which a connecting rod c is mounted, the other end of which is
connected with a lever 9 Fig. 3 pivoted in a bracket L fixed at the under part of
a special framing K which carries the driving mechanism of the frame O (Fig. 3).
The framing K is fixed by the arms to the exterior part of the framing A (Fig. 1).
To the lever q are pivoted connecting rods 150 and 151 to the right and to the left
of its fulcrum (Fig. 3). The connecting rod 150 is connected with an under
carriage 22 sliding in the vertical direction on the framing K, the other connecting
rod 151 is connected by means of a rod P to an upper carriage 221 sliding also
vertically on the framing K. The arrangement of the connecting rods 150
and 151 respectively to the right and to the left of the fulcrum of the lever 9 has
the effect that the two carriages are brought towards or apart from one another by
the rocking movement of the lever 9 when operated by means of the driving
pulley 100.
Carriages. There are two carriages only, one above and one below on the fram-
ing K, to operate both the vertical and horizontal movements of the fabric frame.
These carriages 22, 221 project therefore round the front and back of the fram-
ing K in order to present two surfaces, the one in front and the other behind.
Each of these surfaces carries a similar mechanism to that shown on one surface
only in Fig. 12 to communicate to the fabric frame the movement received by the
operation of the Jacquard mechanism, one being for Loverning the vertical and the
other the horizontal movement of fabric frame. These mechanisms being similar
one only need be described.
Sectors for Middle Divisions. Each mechanism comprises first a sector i mounted
on a pivot (Figs. 1 & 13) fixed on a plate 24 of the carriage. This sector i can
oscillate on its pivot and it is drawn to the left by a spring t¹ (Fig. 1). It is
set in position by the Jacquard mechanism by means of a connecting rod m which
connects it with a lever n mounted on a pivot fixed to the carriage. The other
extremity of this lever carries a pin 121 which abutts against the vertical end
plate 123 of one of the sliding rods 41; these plates 123, 124 and 126 of the
sliding rods 41 are set by the Jacquard mechanism.
Sectors for Small Divisions. Another sector j having its edge facing the previous
one is pivoted to a frame 23 mounted to slide in the carriage 22. This sector j
also oscillates on its pivot; it is also drawn to the left by a spring t" (Fig. 1). It is
set in position also by the Jacquard mechanism by means of a connecting rod m
which connects it with a lever n¹ pivoted on the sliding frame 23. The other
extremity of this lever also carries a pin 122 which abuts against the end plate 124
of one of the rods 41 which is set in position by the Jacquard mechanism.
The frame 23 also carries a dog h fixed on a round rod h³ which can slide laterally
in the frame 23; it is usually held in one end position by a spring 116 fixed at one
end to the frame 23 and at the other to an arm 115 of the rod . Another
spring 117 is attached at one end on the same point of the arm 115 and at its other
end to an eye of the plate 24. This spring has the purpose of holding the dog h

page_text: back from its engaging position; the extremity of the rod h¹ opposite the prolonga-
tion 115 abuts against the end plate 126 of another of the rods 41 which sets it in
position according to the movement of the Jacquard mechanism.
The sliding frame 23 passes through the carriage 22 to below the sector i and it
abuts when the carriages 22 221 are most distant from one another, against a
screw 210 carried by the bracket 31 fixed to one of the arms / carrying the fram-
ing K and keeps the frame 23 pushed forward while the sectors i jare free to
oscillate. The frame 23 carries also an abutment 27 (Figs. 11 and 13) mounted
to slide; it is pushed in the direction of the sector i by means of a spring (not
shown) and arrested in. this, movement by a hook, in order to leave a'sufficient space
so that the sector i can oscillate freely. This abutment can consequently only be
pushed back in the direction of the sector; when the carriages approach one another
and when the dog h abuts against one of the steps g fixed on the rod or scale 20
(or 21 as the case may be). The sectors i jare respectively divided at their under
edges into divisions in the form of steps they carry besides on the upper sides
notches 119 120 corresponding each to one of these steps. The dog h also carries
an appendage with four notches corresponding respectively with the four steps y
on one of which this nose must abut. These steps or stops g are fixed for instance
by rivetting on the rods 20 and 21 which are mounted to slide in the framing K
(Figs. 1, 2, 3 and 11, 12, 13).
Principal Divisions. The divisions fixed on the rods 20 and 21 are termed
principal divisions and are in the form of steps and in series of four steps or
divisions repeated on the length of the rod as many times as it is necessary for the
largest designs; or in other words for the greatest length of fabric to be em-
broidered without moving its position on the fabric frame while repeating at
pleasure the same design. Each of these steps g Fig. 13 comprises the total width
of the steps of the sector i called middle divisions. The sector i thus divides each
principal division into eight parts.
The sectors on the upper carriage (see Fig. 1) are similar to those on the lower
carriage but are reversed end for end, that is to say the lowermost sector pivoted at its
lower end on the upper carriage corresponds to the uppermost pivoted at its upper end
on the lower carriage, and the uppermost section pivoted at its upper end on the
upper carriage corresponds to the lowermost sector pivoted at its lower end on the
lower carriage.
The operation of the Jacquard machine transferred by the plates 123, 124 126 is
common to those sectors and dogs placed on the same side of the machine.
Locking Bars. The operation of each locking bar 33 is common to the sectors
on that side of the machine. It has the purpose of holding the sectors and dogs
immovable after they have been set in position by the operation of the Jacquard
machine. Pressure is brought to bear on this bar at the moment when the
carriages are most distant from one another. Its edge then enters those notches
of the sectors i j and of the dogs h which are immediately underneath it in order
to hold the sectors and dogs steady during the movement afterwards given to the
carriages.
The operation of this bar 33 starts from a cam carried by the disk 5 (Figs. 4, 5
and 6). On this cam a friction roller 110 operates and is carried by a lever with
two branches 16 oscillating on a pivot fixed on the side of the framing A. The
other branch of the lever 16 is connected by a connecting rod 17 to a lever e keyed,
in the middle of an axle T (Figs. 12 and 13) maintained in place by two plates 30
through which it passes and which are fixed against the framing K. The axle T
carries at each of its extremities another lever 34 which presses on a nose u¹ fixed
on the bar 33. A spring fixed on the bar 33 maintains contact between the lever 34
and its corresponding nose. The bar 33 is mounted loosely by its ends on the
brackets 31 fixed to the part of the framing K. It is held in place by screws
with washers allowing it to slide. These screws pass through slots made obliquely
in the bar. The direction of these slots is such that, when the bar is moved end-
wise it is guided by its slots so that it can be projected into the notches of the

page_text: sectors and dogs as has been mentioned during the time when the carriages 22, 22¹
are most distant from one another.
Operation of the Apparatus controlling the Fabric Frame. This operation com-
mences when the pin 102 carried by the driving pulley 100 is at the lowest point
of its course; as the movement continues, the following are the successive phases
of the operation of the fabric frame.
The bar 33 enters the notches of the sectors and dogs; it presses at the same time
on a spring 118 with which the dog h is provided which rocks the dog into one of
the divisions g. The carriages are in movement and approach one another. The
dog stopped by one of the divisions 9 arrests the part 23 which slides in the
carriage 22, until the abutment 27 touches the sector i which in its turn pushes
this abutment 27 until it touches the sector ; and is thus arrested and as the
sector is pivoted to the carriage 22 the whole forms only one block which pushes
the rod 20 carrying the principal divisions and consequently commences to move
the fabric frame O in the direction towards the upper carriage which presents a
correspondingly set abutment.
When the driving crank has arrived at the top of its course the rod 20 will be
blocked between the two carriages, and the fabric frame O is stationary.
The
locking bars 33 then rise in order to free sectors and dogs so that they may be again
set by the operation of the Jacquard machine during the return of the carriage.
While the mechanism on the carriages 22 22¹ on the front side of the machine
(Fig. 1) is thus acting on the bar 20, the similar mechanism carried by the hinder
part of the same carriages is acting similarly on the bar 21; but each mechanism
having its separate Jacquard gear, the movements given respectively to the bars 20,
21 through synchronous will not necessarily be equal in amount each being moved
in accordance with the varying necessities of the pattern.
Clamps. On each side of the lever e and on the same axle T, which carries it,
there are mounted two levers g¹ forming clamps provided with a strong spring r
(Fig. 1) which makes a nose q11 (Fig. 13) thereon press against a sliding block 32
mounted in guides under the plates 30. One of these blocks 32 presses on the
rod 20, the other on the rod 21, which are thus rendered immovable whilst the
carriages 22 22¹ return from one another. These levers 7 will then be
unlocked by means of a pin which traverses the lever and
presses on the two levers q¹ (Fig. 12) at the moment when the locking
bars 33 again enter the notches of the sectors.
e
Jacquard Mechanism. The mechanism constituting the Jacquard apparatus is
carried by a framing 35 fixed to the framing K between the two carriages 22 221
(Figs. 14 & 15). The operation is derived from the movement of the upper
carriage 221 on which there is fixed a bracket 40 (Fig. 14) which carries pivoted
cheeks 39 carrying at their under part an axle 38 which projects on the outside
of the cheeks in order to engage the ends of the horizontal arms of the two angular
levers 37 fixed on a common axle 36 mounted in bearings on the framing 35. The
vertical arms of the levers 37 are enlarged at their under extremities 125 in order
to lie in the paths of the abutments 91 fixed on the slides 41 sliding horizontally
in slots provided in the framing 35 and closed by a cap. The slides 41 have
springs 44 which keeps them drawn towards the left (Fig. 14) against the levers 37;
they carry besides other abutments 42 (Figs. 14 & 16) serving to stop the slides
against needles which have passed through holes of the perforated pattern paper.
At the left extremity of each of the slides 41 there is fixed a vertical blade 123,
124 or 126; this blade sets its respective pair of sectors or dogs on the
carriages 22 221 as before described.
To operate the needles 43 of the Jacquard apparatus a trip lever 51 with two
arms (Fig. 14 and 15) is mounted on an axle which connects the plates 39. This
trip lever is pressed upon on one arm by a spring 153 in such a manner as to hold its
other or lower arm hanging vertically. When the cheeks 39 descend, pushed by
the carriage 221, the lower arm of the trip lever 51 enters the notch of a trip 50

page_text: held vertically by a spring 50° and placed on an axle 127 which crosses two
plates 48 mounted to slide in a vertical direction on the framing 35.
Two other plates 48" are mounted in the same manner at the other extremity
of the framing 35 (Fig. 14). These plates at the right and at the left are moved
together by means of connecting rods 47 pivoted at their under part and each
connected at their other extremity with a lever 46 keyed on a shaft 45 placed in
bearings on the framing 35.
The sliding pieces 48 48" carry at their under part cross bars which hold the
plates 49 which are perforated. In these perforations, needles or rods 43 corre-
sponding with the divisions of the sectors i j and the dogs h can slide. These needles
each have a fixed collar against which a spring presses which holds them moved
outwards when they meet a hole in the paper.
Mechanism Operating the Perforated Pattern Paper. The paper passes first on
a roller 54 (Fig. 15) then between the plate 55 and the plate 49 from there over a
toothed cylinder 53 which moves the paper at each stroke of the machine. This
cylinder 53 is operated by the lever 46 with two arms of which one is prolonged
over the cylinder. This arm carries a dog 56 which operates the cylinder by
engaging with the toothed wheel 129 with which this cylinder is provided. A
retaining pawl 57 pivoted on the framing prevents it from moving backwards and
a pawl 58 carried by the lever 46 regulates the movement of the cylinder by enter-
ing between the teeth of the toothed wheel. The lever 46 carries besides at its
extremity a pin on which there is attached a spring t (Fig. 14) which draws down
the lever 46 and presses the plates 49 against the paper in the position indicated in
(Fig. 14).
Operation of the Jacquard Mechanism. The operation has as a starting point
the moment when the carriages are most distant from one another. The hang-
ing arm of the lever 37 lies towards the left; the hanging arm of
the trip lever 51 is in a vertical line. We will now suppose the
carriages are approaching one another. During this movement the lever 37
pushes the slides 41 back to the right. When the carriage 22¹ has
arrived at the end of its course, the abutments 42 will have passed beyond and
be clear of the needle of the series of divisions with which they correspond: during
this time, the trip lever 51 having entered into the notch of the trip 50, it will
have pushed downwards the plates 48 and 48" together with the mechanism they
carry; the paper being released from the pressure of plate 49 will also be advanced
for a distance corresponding to one tooth of the toothed wheel 129.
At the moment then the carriage 22¹ arrives at the inner end of its course, the
trip 51 meets an abutment 52, which produced a disengagement and the plates 48,
48, 49 and the needles rise drawn by a spring t. The needles which have met a
hole in the paper project through the plate 55. As the carriage 22¹ returns towards
its starting point, the slides 41 following the movement of the lever 37 stop against
the corresponding needles against which they remain immovable until the follow-
ing stroke.
It will be obvious that by the mechanism hereinabove described the sectors i
and j on both carriages 22 221 are set so as to bring those divisions of the respective
sectors which are required by the exigencies of the pattern into co-operation with
the abutments 27 and that the dogs h are likewise so set as to engage with the
required division or step of that series of divisions or steps of the rod 20 or 21
which corresponds to the repeat or part of the pattern then being worked.
Embroidery stitches being comparatively short it would be seldom that the
nose h in moving from one step to another would have to act successively on
another than two adjacent steps, or move therefore further than from one step to
the next or for instance from the last step of one series to the first of the next or
vice versa. The movement of the nose for a greater or less distance laterally
across the rod 20 (or 21) would thus enable it to engage with certainty such
division as the pattern would require, whether that were the step immediately
forward or rearward of that previously acted upon, or one of the two steps next
H

page_text: beyond. The length of travel of the carriage is not sufficient to enable the dog h
to wholly miss a series of steps and engage the next series behind.
Principle of the Four Principal Divisions. The arrangement of the steps carried
by the rods 20, 21 in series of four, allows the use in the Jacquard mechanism of
only four needles each corresponding with one of the steps called principal divisions
and this whatever be the length of the design to be produced. For instance for
producing a design of sixty centimeters length and width, if instead of arranging
the principal divisions in series of four, we had placed in one series the quantity
of steps necessary in order to make the sixty centimeters, it would have been
necessary to use thirty needles, corresponding to thirty steps each of two centi-
meters height. This would have also the inconvenience of giving exaggerated
width to the rods 20, 21 and consequently of requiring the dog h to travel a long
course difficult to control in order to bring it in line with the step on which it
should abut but with our arrangement of series of four divisions each all these
inconveniences are avoided.
It is sufficient to have such a number of steps in each series that the dog h having
worked on the last step of the first series for instance can take the first of the
following series, without risking a meeting on its way during the movement of
the carriages with the first step of the last series which it leaves, and reciprocally
from the first of the second series it can pass to the last of the first series without
risk of skipping and abutting against the last of the second series.
By starting on the first division of the first series and passing to the second,
third and fourth of this series, then to the first division of the second series and
so on the dog will thus operate on the rod carrying these divisions and move it pro-
gressively for an indefinite distance whatever be the number of series of divisions
which it has on its length, and either in the one or the other direction.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of this inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we
claim is:-
In an automatic embroidery machine,
1). The mechanism adapted to embroider a pattern on a certain length of fabric
stretched upon the frame without it being necessary to displace the fabric on the
frame,
2). The mechanism permitting of change of the shuttles in order to be able
to use different colours substantially as set forth.
3). The operating mechanism comprising cams, giving by means of rollers
carried by rods, the movement to longitudinal bars on the one hand connected with
the locking thread grip, the thread feed and needle carriers &c. and on the other
with arms operating the shuttles in their rising and sinking movements.
4). The construction whereby said arms can be pulled longitudinally, together
or separately in order to remove all the shuttles at once, or some only of them,
according to necessity.
5). The hooks for seizing the locking thread leaving the needle and looping
the same for the shuttle to pass, said hooks being arranged between each shuttle
and operated by a cam operating a vertical shaft carrying a longitudinal bar on
which these hooks are arranged.
6). The thread cutters placed on a bar over the bar of the hooks and operated
by hand by a vertical shaft with handle for the purpose of cutting all the threads
at once when changing all the shuttles!
7). The Jacquard mechanism with a limited number of needles and movable
perforated pattern sheet giving movement by slides striking against the needles
to sectors and dogs which bring into operation for locking divisions in form of
steps fixed in series of four divisions on rods sliding in a framing which carries,
equally mounted on slides, two carriages on which the sectors and dogs are
arranged.
8). Two sliding rods one in connection for the vertical movement of the frame

page_text: by means of chains passing over pulleys and supporting a bar on which the said
frame can slide horizontally; the other rod in connection by a chain passing
equally over pulleys and connected with a bar mounted vertically on slides on
a side of the frame.
9). The mechanism for moving the Jacquard pattern gear given by a plate carried
by the upper carriage; the carriages receiving a to and fro movement from a crank
fixed on the driving pulley of the machine.
10). The construction of parts for the adjustment of the embroidery frame in
accordance with the pattern to be embroidered substantially as herein set forth.
11). The improved embroidery loom comprising the parts hereinbefore described,
constructed substantially as illustrated and for the purpose set forth.
Dated this 24th day of duonał 1907
HERBERT HADDAN & Co.,
Agents to Applicants, 18, Buckingham Street, Strand, London, W.C.