Improvements in the Manufacture of Figured Fabrics.
Year: 1894

page_text: Date of Application, 21st June, 1894
Complete Specification Left, 18th Mar., 1895-Accepted 20th Apr., 1895
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Figured Fabrics.
I, FERNAND BOYER, of 71, Rue de Richelieu, Paris, in the Republic of France,
do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
My invention relates to the manufacture of figured fabrics.
In weaving only very limited effects in colored designs can be produced and the
means at present employed for the manufacture of rich embroidered fabrics such
as those manufactured at Lyons are very costly.
According to my invention manufacture fabrics possessing the richness of
embroidered fabrics and having the same variety of colour by combining the effects
produced by weaving with that produced by embroidery.
I first weave in a Jacquard loom the simple parts of the design such for example,
as the stems and leaves of flowers, ornaments, vases, etc. and I then form the
flowers having the desired variety of colour by means of the Swiss embroidering
machine. The embroidery is worked on the fabric or material at the vacant spaces
left in the woven design between the leaves and the stems in such a manner that
the effects of the embroidery and the weaving are combined. I thus obtain a
combined woven and embroidered fabric having the variety and richness of colour
of wholly embroidered fabrics. In order to thus combine the embroidery with the
weaving it is necessary to employ a very exact marking and a Swiss embroidery
inachine the width of which should be a multiple of that of the loom, that is to
say, for furniture fabrics for example which are 1 m. 30 in width employ an
embroidering machine of 1 m. 30 x 4 = 5 m. 20 in width. I sew together edge to
edge four widths of fabric produced in the loom so that four similar fabrics can be
embroidered at the same time.
It is necessary to carefully adjust the fabric when placing it upon the
embroidering machine in order that the figures and flowers shall register exactly
with the woven stems and leaves. For this purpose the embroidering machine is
provided with means for stretching the fabric in the required direction. To stretch
the fabric in the direction of its width I employ a number of horizontal pins
which arrange upon the sides of the frame; I stretch the material to the desired
extent at the proper place until the embroidery needle exactly follows the contour
of the woven design when the index of the pantograph follows the design of the
pattern.
If there be any irregularity which necessitates stretching or bringing together
of any two points of the fabric, I sew at the back a silk ribbon between the
points to be brought together. This ribbon will itself be covered by the embroidery
breads and will be almost invisible as it will be afterwards cut off between the
flowers.
The tension of the fabric in the vertical direction is obtained by means of a
system of stretching rollers. These rollers are mounted in the frame of the
embroidery machine. One of the edges of the fabric is fixed to the uppermost or
first roller and passes thence to the next lowest or second roller and partly
surrounds it; it passes round a bar engaged in a groove, again passes around the
second roller and hangs loose behind, between this roller and the next lowest or
third roller; it is fixed to this third roller in the same mauner as to the second

page_text: roller and it is also fixed to the lowermost or fourth roller. The spindles of these
four rollers are provided with ratchet wheels having pawls which hold them in
position when the rollers have been sufficiently turned to stretch the fabric. This
Pystem is very suitable for embroidering designs of great height.
Two similar designs may be made at the same time; one between the first and
second rollers and the other between the fourth and third rollers, the rest of the
fabric hanging loose behind, between the second and third rollers.
In order that the operation may be performed under the best conditions it is
necessary to embroider the fabric almost immediately it comes from the loom.
Under these conditions it is not necessary to dress or finish it but recourse may be
had to this means to avoid any stretching or shrinking of the fabric under the
influence of the variations of temperature or of the atmosphere.
Dated the 21st day of June 1894.
G. F. REDFERN & Co..
4. South Street, Finsbury, London, Agents for the Applicant.
I, FERNAND BOYER, of 71, Rue de Richelieu, Paris, in the Republic of France,
do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to
be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:-
My invention relates to the manufacture of figured fabrics.
In weaving only very limited effects in coloured designs can be produced and the
menus at present employed for the manufacture of rich embroidered fabrics such
as those manufactured at Lyons are very costly.
According to my invention I manufacture fabrics possessing the richness of
embroidered fabrics and having the same variety of colour by combining the effects
produced by weaving with that produced by embroidery.
first weave in a Jacquard loom the simple parts of the design, such for
example, as the stems and leaves of flowers, ornaments, vases, etc. and I then form
the flowers having the desired variety of colour by means of the Swiss embroidering
machine. The embroidery is worked on the fabric or material at the vacant
spaces left in the woven design between the leaves and the stems in such a manner
that the effects of the embroidery and the weaving are combined. I thus obtain n
combined woven and embroidered fabric having the variety and richness of colour
of wholly embroidered fabrics. In order to this combine the embroidery with the
weaving it is necessary to employ a very exact marking and a Swiss embroidering
machine the width of which should be a multiple of that of the loom, that is to
say, for furniture fabrics, for example, which are 1 m. 30 in width 1 employ an
embroidering machine of 1 m. 30 x 4 = 5m. 20 in width. I sew together edge to
edge four widths of fabric produced in the loom so that four similar fabrică can
he embroidered at the same time.
It is necessary to carefully adjust the fabric when placing it upon the
embroidering machine in order that the figures and flowers shall register exactly
with the woven stems and leaves. For this purpose the embroidering machine is
provided with means for stretching the fabric in the required direction. To
stretch the fabric in the direction of its width 1 employ (as shewn in front view
at Figure 1 of the drawing and in side view at Figure 2) a number of horizontal
pins p which I arrange upon the sides of the frame; I stretch the material to the
desired extent at the proper place until the embroidery needle exactly follows the
contour of the woven design when the index of the pantograph follows the design
of the pattern.

page_text: If there be any irregularity which necessitates stretching or bringing together
of any two points of the fabric, I sew at the back a silk ribbon between the points
to be brought together. This ribbon will itself be covered by the embroidery
threads and will be almost invisible as it will be afterwards cut off between the
flowers.
The tension of the fabric in the vertical direction is obtained by means of a
system of stretching rollers as shewn in the drawing. These rollers are mounted
in the frame of the embroidery machine. One of the edges of the fabric is fixed
to the uppermost or first roller A. and passes thence to the next lowest or second
roller Band partly surrounds it; it passes round a bar a engaged in a groove (as
shewn in the vertical section Figure 3) again passes around the second roller B
and hangs loose behind, between this roller B and the next lowest or third
roller B; it is fixed to this third roller B in the same manner as to the second
roller B and it is also fixed to the lowermost or fourth roller A'. The spindles of
these four rollers are provided with ratchet wheels having pawls c which hold
them in position when the rollers have been sufficiently turned to stretch the
fabric.
This system is very suitable for embroidering designs of great height. Two
similar designs may be made at the same time; one between the first and second
rollers A and B, the other between the fourth and third rollers A. and B¹; the
rest of the fabric hanging loose behind, between the second and third rollers B
and B.
In order that the operation may be performed under the best conditions it is
necessary to embroider the fabric almost immediately it comes from the loom.
Under these conditions it is not necessary to dress or finish it but recourse may be
had to this means to avoid any stretching or shrinking of the fabric under the
influence of the variations of temperature or of the atmosphere.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is:-
:-
1. The manufacture of figured fabrics possessing the combined effects of fabrics
produced by weaving and embroidery produced by the Swiss embroidering machine,
the embroidery being worked, for example, between the stems and the leaves of
flowers and registering with them, substantially as hereinbefore described.
2. The arrangement of the embroidering machine for the purpose of obtaining
an exact registering of the design by stretching the fabric at the required parts,
substantially as hereinbefore described with reference to the accompanying
drawing.
3. As a new article of manufacture the woven and embroidered fabric obtained
by my process, substantially as set forth.
Dated the 18th day of March 1895.
G. F. REDFERN & Co.,
4, South Street, Finsbury, London, Agents for the Applicant.