Improvements in Apparatus for Stretching Hat Bodies.
Year: 1896

page_text: Date of Application, 30th Nov., 1896
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Apparatus for Stretching Hat Bodies.
I GILES ATHERTON of the Virginia Mills, Higher Hillgate, Stockport, in the
County of Chester, Hatter's Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of this
invention to be as follows:-
My said invention relates to improvements in apparatus for automatically
stretching hat bodies. I have already obtained a Patent in the United Kingdom
No. 12205 of 1887, in the specification of which I describe an apparatus of this
nature, and the present invention while adhering to the main features of the
said prior machine, deals nevertheless with certain improvements which very
materially increase the utility of such apparatus and do away with objections
which have been raised to the said former machine.
In the said former machine provision was made for rotating the hat clamping
rings during the stretching operation, power being continuously applied to the
said rings. While that mode of operation was not then objectionable in working
on certain heavy kinds of hat bodies, the crown portions and tips of the lighter
kinds were subjected to such torsional or twisting strains as to result in objec-
tionable distortion.
In the said former apparatus the stretching fingers were operated at from 200
to 300 vibrations per minute whereas in my present machine they are organised
so that their extent of vibrative movement is only about half what it was in the
old machine, while I now operate them at the rate of from 400 to 500 vibrations
or impulses per minute, and therefore the fingers and the ribbed "former" obstruct
the rotation of the hat body at each vibrative action of the fingers, less than
one half as much as they did in the first machine.
Under this new condition with the stretching fingers vibrating with about
half the throw and nearly twice as rapidly as was provided for in the said former
patent machine, the agitation of the felt in the hat tip is so complete and the
average periods of heavy pressure between the fingers and the ribs of the former
are so brief, as to greatly reduce the frictional adhesion of the hat to the said
ribs and hence with the continuous rotation of the hat clamp the liability of
distorting the hat is largely eliminated during each of the progressive stretching
periods, and while an absolutely fresh surface of felt might not always be pre-
sented to receive each impulse of each stretching finger, it would be practically
impossible for the stretching fingers to operate successively upon precisely the
same portions of the felt, and the hat body too cannot be distorted, because the
several stretching periods are separated by complete clearance of the hat body.
Again under the aforesaid prior patent the ribbed "former" was promptly lifted
by its cam into co-operative relation with the stretching fingers, and then gradually
and continuously raised and there held until the stretching operation was com-
pleted; whereas in my present invention the ribbed "former" is intermittingly
lifted and lowered several times during the stretching operation, for assuring

page_text: the intermitting complete release of the hat body from frictional contact with
the stretching fingers and ribbed "former."
Another feature of my present improvements is that whereas in the old machine
the brim clamp as a whole was movable vertically on its spindle only in response
to the depressing action of the stretching fingers and the weight of the upper
clamping ring, and to the lifting action of a co-operating counterbalance weight,
for the lower clamping ring, in my improved apparatus the brim clamp and the hat
body are positively lifted or detached from the ribbed "former" at each inter-
mitting dropping of the ribbed "former."
Thus three main features of my improvements are the combination with rapidly
reciprocating stretching fingers of a ribbed "former" and means for intermittingly
moving it vertically to and away from the stretching fingers several times during
each complete stretching operation; a hat clamp and means which intermittingly
control it for assuring complete successive releases of a hat body from the ribbed
"former," and means for imparting to the hat clamp a continuous rotative
movement during the complete stretching operation; and it will also be under-
stood that this novel organization involves novel modes of operation and affords
the new and useful results indicated, viz. the avoidance of liability of distorting
the hat bodies encountered in the former machine; obviating line marks in the
tip by presenting continuously to the action of the stretching fingers, fresh
portions of the hat body instead of having the fingers successively operating upon
one line or portion of the hat body; and also adapting the machine to work
equally well upon all kinds of hat bodies from the dark heavy and stiff grades up to
the lightest coloured and softest grades having but little stiffening; and finally
performing the tip stretching operation with greater rapidity and uniformity
and with equal safety to delicate light hat bodies, and the strongest and heaviest.
The means employed to obtain the intermittent yet progressive lifting of the
"former" consists in the combination with the spindle which carries the ribbed
"former" and its lifting lever of a cam having a series of intermediate gradual
lifting faces. The successive presentation of a fresh portion of the felt to each
successive vibrative action of each stretching finger, as in my improved machine,
results in more even and rapid stretching, and in order that this capacity for
rapid stretching action by the fingers in my machine may be made fully avail-
able, the ribbed "former" is gradually lifted so as to properly co-operate with
the fingers during each of several of the intervals between the abrupt lifting
and lowering actions referred to.
Briefly stated, in comparison, the corresponding cam in the old machine, pro-
vided for a continuous gradual lift of the ribbed "former" in passing from its
lowest working position to its highest, and then maintaining said "former" at
the highest position until the end of the stretching operation. With my new 4
cam having a gradual lift at several faces the stretching is preferably accom-
plished during the action of only four of the seven peripheral faces of the cam
so that with the other three faces, I can provide for a gradual lowering of the
ribbed "former" to within a short distance of its lowest working position, thus
effectually enabling the fingers to eliminate all crease lines from the hat body and 4
enable the felt to evenly readjust itself in its stretched condition.
Another feature of my invention consists in a novel construction and organiza-
tion of the stretching fingers, or "basket" whereby the centre of the tip of a hat
body is freed from a slight protuberance which results from the imperfect co-
operation of the apex of the ribbed former, with the inner ends of the tip 5
stretching fingers, as Leretofore constructed.
This unstretched protuberance involves more or less special manipulation for
its elimination during subsequent operations on the hat body, which I now
render unnecessary because I have constructed the inner ends of the fingers and
so hinged them to their hub or base, that they present working surfaces so closely 5
adjacent to and conforming with the apex of the ribbed "former," that the centre
of the tip receives its appropriate degree of stretching.

page_text: Another feature of my invention relates to a simplification of the mechanism
employed between a suitable cam, and the lower clamping ring, between which and
its co-operating upper ring a hat body is clamped throughout the stretching
operation. I also enclose the stretching fingers within a steam fed dome or bell
this being an entirely new feature in tip stretching machines, said bell being so
constructed and organized with the adjusting mechanism as to be equally effective,
regardless of variations in the adjustment of the fingers.
Although I have in the foregoing description referred to the rotation of the
"former" and hat body as being continuous, nevertheless in certain cases I have
found it of advantage to impart intermittent rotation to the "former" and hat
body. I have already referred to the twisting or distorting effect on the hat body
of the nip between the stretching fingers and the rotating "former," and the
present invention includes means for overcoming the objection, in an apparatus
such for example as might be constructed under my said prior patent of 1887.
In such apparatus the rotating mechanism was so organised that rotative
force was always applied to the hat body not only while the stretching fingers
were freed from the hat body, but also while actually in stretching contact there
with, the tip of the hat body then being tightly interposed between the stretching
fingers and the ribbed hat support or former. This rotative strain on the hat
body while so held by the fingers and "former" is as already set forth, conducive
to a twisting distortion of the hat body, especially in view of the fact, that in
said old machines, the "former" and its controlling mechanism were so con-
structed and organized that even when freed from the fingers, the hat body could
only be rotated under considerable torsional strain, because of the adhesion of the
hat body to the ribbed "former."
This undue distortion of a hat body resulting from rotative strain at the brim
while the tip is confined, causes an irregular presentation of the tip to the
stretching fingers, with lack of uniformity in the stretching action.
According to my present improvement no twisting distortion of the hat body
is possible because the rotating mechanism is operated intermittingly and when
the hat body is not only released from engagement by the tip stretching fingers,
but also freed from adhesion to the ribbed "former."
In the said prior machines the last action of the stretching fingers on each hat
body, left well defined stretching creases on the tip, which required care, time
and labour for their subsequent removal; but under the present improvements
the rotating mechanism, the stretching fingers, the ribbed former and its con-
trolling mechanism are so constructed and organized that the final action on the
hat body removes the stretching creases and especially those last made by the
fingers and former, so that when a hat body is removed from the machine its
stretched tip is smooth and symmetrical.
In the said prior machines the means by which the hat bodies were held and
put under the control of the rotating mechanism included several pairs of brim
clamping rings each pair of which was restricted to use with hat bodies of one
size, thus involving a loss of time in making changes, which is wholly obviated
in the use of the present machine, because it contains a single pair of brim
clamping rings so constructed and organised with the stretching devices and
rotating mechanism, as to be suited for reliable engagement with hat bodies of
all sizes.
My present apparatus is further improved, in having the upper clamping ring
so organized with an annular cross head and controlling mechanism, that after
each use it is mechanically lifted and maintained at its highest position and so
far remote from the ribbed former, that hat bodies may be readily applied to and
removed from said "former," whereas in the old machine the clamping ring after
each use was dropped to its lowest position, and hence it was obstructive in the
ready and prompt application to and removal of hat bodies from the ribbed
"former."
Further my new machine has a ribbed "former" to which steam is automatically,

page_text: delivered and so controlled as to keep the tip of a hat body highly heated and
thoroughly moistened during the action of the stretching fingers, whereas with
the old machine all heating and moistening depended upon submerging the hat
bodies in hot water before putting them upon the ribbed former.
The new machine is constructed and organized so that it will not only stretch
tips in about half the time required by the old machine, but perform the work
in a much more satisfactory manner.
T
1000
Improvements in Apparatus for Stretching Hat Bodies.
I GILES ATHERTON of the Virginia Mills, Higher Hillgate, Stockport, in the
County of Chester, Hatter's Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of this
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement and accompanying
drawings:-
My said invention relates to improvements in apparatus for automatically
stretching hat bodies. I have already obtained a Patent in the United Kingdom
No. 12205 of 1887, in the specification of which I describe an apparatus of this
nature, and the present invention while adhering to the main features of the
said prior machine, deals nevertheless with certain improvements which very
materially increase the utility of such apparatus and do away with objections
which have been raised to the said former machine.
In the said former machine provision was made for rotating the hat clamping
rings during the stretching operation, power being continuously applied to the
said rings. While that mode of operation was not then objectionable in working
on certain heavy kinds of hat bodies, the crown portions and tips of the lighter
kinds were subjected to such torsional or twisting strains as to result in objec-
tionable distortion.
In the said former apparatus the stretching fingers were operated at from 200
to 300 vibrations per minute whereas in my present machine they are organised
so that their extent of vibrative movement is only about half what it was in the
old machine, while I now operate them at the rate of from 400 to 500 vibrations
or impulses per minute, and therefore the fingers and the ribbed "former" obstruct
the rotation of the hat body at each vibrative action of the fingers, less than
one half as much as they did in the first machine.
Under this new condition with the stretching fingers vibrating with about
half the throw and nearly twice as rapidly as was provided for in the said former
patent machine, the agitation of the felt in the hat tip is so complete and the
average periods of heavy pressure between the fingers and the ribs of the former
are so brief, as to greatly reduce the frictional adhesion of the hat to the said
ribs and hence with the continuous rotation of the hat clamp the liability of
distorting the hat is largely eliminated during each of the progressive stretching
periods, and while an absolutely fresh surface of felt might not always be pre-
sented to receive each impulse of each stretching finger, it would be practically
impossible for the stretching fingers to operate successively upon precisely the
same portions of the felt, and the hat body too cannot be distorted, berause the
several stretching periods are separated by complete clearance of the hat body.

page_text: Again under the aforesaid prior patent the ribbed former was promptly lifted
by its cam into co-operative relation with the stretching fingers, and then gradually
and continuously raised and there held until the stretching operation was com-
pleted; whereas in my present invention the ribbed "former" is intermittingly
lifted and lowered several times during the stretching operation, for assuring
the intermitting complete release of the hat body from frictional contact with
the stretching fingers and ribbed "former."
Another feature of my present improvements is that whereas in the old machine
the brim clamp as a whole was movable vertically on its spindle only in response
to the depressing action of the stretching fingers and the weight of the upper
clamping ring, and to the lifting action of a co-operating counterbalance weight,
for the lower clamping ring, in my improved apparatus the brim clamp and the hat
body are positively lifted or detached from the ribbed "former" at each inter-
mitting dropping of the ribbed "former."
Thus three main features of my improvements are the combination with rapidly
reciprocating stretching fingers of a ribbed "former" and means for intermittingly
moving it vertically to and away from the stretching fingers several times during
each complete stretching operation; a hat clamp and means which intermittingly
control it for assuring complete successive releases of a hat body from the ribbed
"former," and means for imparting to the hat clamp a continuous rotative
movement during the complete stretching operation; and it will also be under-
stood that this novel organization involves novel modes of operation and affords
the new and useful results indicated, viz. the avoidance of liability of distorting
the hat bodies encountered in the former machine; obviating line marks in the
tip by presenting continuously to the action of the stretching fingers, fresh
portions of the hat body instead of having the fingers successively operating upon
one line or portion of the hat body; and also adapting the machine to work
equally well upon all kinds of hat bodies from the dark heavy and stiff grades up to
the lightest coloured and softest grades having but little stiffening; and finally
performing the tip stretching operation with greater rapidity and uniformity
and with equal safety to delicate light hat bodies, and the strongest and heaviest.
The means employed to obtain the intermittent yet progressive lifting of the
"former" consists in the combination with the spindle which carries the ribbed
"former" and its lifting lever of a cam having a series of intermediate gradual
lifting faces. The successive presentation of a fresh portion of the felt to each
successive vibrative action of each stretching finger, as in my improved machine,
results in more even and rapid stretching, and in order that this capacity for
rapid stretching action by the fingers in my machine may be made fully avail-
able, the ribbed "former" is gradually lifted so as to properly co-operate with
the fingers during each of several of the intervals between the abrupt lifting
and lowering actions referred to.
Briefly stated, in comparison, the corresponding cam in the old machine, pro-
vided for a continuous gradual lift of the ribbed "former" in passing from its
lowest working position to its highest, and then maintaining said former at
the highest position until the end of the stretching operation. With my new
cam having a gradual lift at several faces the stretching is perfectly accom-
plished during the action of only four of the seven peripheral faces of the cam
so that with the other three faces, I can provide for a gradual lowering of the
ribbed "former" to within a short distance of its lowest working position thus
effectually enabling the fingers to eliminate all crease lines from the hat body and
enable the felt to evenly readjust itself in its stretched condition.
Another feature of my invention consists in a novel construction and organiza-
tion of the stretching fingers, or "basket" whereby the centre of the tip of a hat
body is freed from a slight protuberance which results from the imperfect co-
operation of the apex of the ribbed former, with the inner ends of the tip
stretching fingers, as heretofore constructed.
This unstretched protuberance involves more or less special manipulation for

page_text: its elimination during subsequent operations on the hat body, which I now
render unnecessary because I have constructed the inner ends of the fingers and
so hinged them to their hub or base, that they present working surfaces so closely
adjacent to and conforming with the apex of the ribbed "former" that the centre
of the tip receives its appropriate degree of stretching.
I also enclose the stretching fingers within a steam fed dome or bell this
being an entirely new feature in tip stretching machines, said bell being so
constructed and organized with the adjusting mechanism as to be equally effective,
regardless of variations in the adjustment of the fingers.
Although I have in the foregoing description referred to the rotation of the
former and hat body as being continuous, nevertheless in certain cases I have
found it of advantage to impart intermittent rotation to the "former" and hat
body. I have already referred to the twisting or distorting effect on the hat body
of the nip between the stretching fingers and the rotating "former" and the
present invention includes means for overcoming the objection, in an apparatus
such for example as might be constructed under my said prior Patent of 1887.
In such apparatus the rotating mechanism was so organised that rotative
force was always applied to the hat body not only while the stretching fingers
were freed from the hat body, but also while actually in stretching contact there-
with, the top of the hat body then being tightly interposed between the stretching
fingers and the ribbed hat support or former. This rotative strain on the hat
body while so held by the fingers and "former" is as already set forth, conducive
to a twisting distortion of the hat body, especially in view of the fact, that in
said old machines, the "former" and its controlling mechanism were so con-
structed and organized that even when freed from the fingers, the hat body could
only be rotated under considerable torsional strain, because of the adhesion of the
hat body to the ribbed "former."
This undue distortion of a hat body resulting from rotative strain at the brim
while the tip is confined, causes an irregular presentation of the tip to the
stretching fingers, with lack of uniformity in the stretching action.
According to my present improvement no twisting distortion of the hat body
is possible because the rotating mechanism is operated intermittingly and when
the hat body is not only released from engagement by the tip stretching fingers,
but also freed from adhesion to the ribbed "former."
In the said prior machines the last action of the stretching fingers on each hat
body, left well defined stretching creases on the tip, which required care, time
and labour for their subsequent removal; but under the present improvements
the 1otating mechanism, the stretching fingers, the ribbed former and its con-
trolling mechanism are so constructed and organized that the final action on the
hat body removes the stretching creases and especially those last made by the
fingers and former, so that when a hat body is removed from the machine its
stretched tip is smooth and symmetrical.
In the said prior machines the means by which the hat bodies were held and
put under the control of the rotating mechanism included several pairs of brim
clamping rings each pair of which was restricted to use with hat bodies of one
size, thus involving a loss of time in making changes, which is wholly obviated
in the use of the present machine, because it contains a single pair of brim
clamping rings so constructed and organized with the stretching devices and
rotating mechanism, as to be suited for reliable engagement with hat bodies of
all sizes.
My present apparatus is further improved, in having the upper clamping ring
so organized with an annular cross head and controlling mechanism, that after
each use it is mechanically lifted and maintained in its highest position and so
far remote from the ribbed former, that hat bodies may be readily applied to and
removed from said "former," whereas in the old machine the clamping ring after
each use was dropped to its lowest position, and hence it was obstructive in the

page_text: ready and prompt application to and removal of hat bodies from the ribbed
"former."
Further my new machine has a ribbed "former" to which steam is automatically
delivered and so controlled as to keep the tip of a hat body highly heated and
thoroughly moistened during the action of the stretching fingers, whereas with
the old machine all heating and moistening depended upon submerging the hat
bodies in hot water before putting them upon the ribbed former.
The new machine is constructed and organized so that it will not only stretch
tips in about half the time required by the old machine, but perform the work
in a much more satisfactory manner.
And in order that my invention may be more particularly understood I will
now describe the same with reference to the accompanying nine sheets of drawings,
in which,
Fig. 1 illustrates so much of one of my machines embodying part of my im-
provements as is necessary for the purpose, with one of the side plates of the frame
removed and with the bottom, middle and cap plates in section, as is the case
with the lateral shafting.
Fig. 2 is a top view of the top plate of the frame, parts of the two side frames,
the upper gearing for rotating the brim clamp and a rock shaft and its arms,
from which the upper clamping ring is suspended.
Fig. 3 is a side view of the cam which controls the spindle on which the ribbed
"former" is carried, with dotted lines indicating a modification in form, which
has been successfully and advantageously employed by me.
Fig. 4 is a side view of the cam which actuates the hat clamp in releasing a
hat body from the ribbed former, and having dotted lines indicating a variation
for co-operating with the dotted line variation of Fig. 3.
Fig. 5 is a sectional view of the stretching fingers and the adjacent parts,
including their novel steam dome or heating bell.
Fig. 6 is a top view of a portion of said stretching fingers Fig. 5, without the
heating bell or dome.
Fig. 7 illustrates an automatic tip stretching machine in side elevation, in
which my further improvements are embodied.
Fig. 8 illustrates said machine in front elevation, with central portions thereof
shown in section, but without the cams on the cam shaft, and also without portions
of the hat rotating mechanism.
Fig. 9 is a vertical section of the machine on line r, Fig. 2 and shows the ribbed
former in position for service.
Fig. 10 is a similar section on line y, Fig. 2 but without the ribbed former.
Fig. 11 is a horizontal section on line z, Fig. 2, without certain pitmen which
couple with the cranks on the main shaft.
Fig. 12 illustrates in front, sectional and top views, the main cross head by
which the "former" spindle is coupled to its controlling mechanism.
Fig. 13 in top and side views, illustrates a bell crank lever carried by the main
cross head.
Fig. 14 is a plan view of the top of the machine, showing a part of the
hat clamp rotating mechanism.
Fig 15 is a side view of the spindle controlling cam, on a larger scale than in
the previous figures.
Fig. 16 in two views, illustrates a modification of a bell crank lever and links
employed in the brim clamp lifting and adjusting mechanism.
As in the prior machine the apparatus has two cast iron side frame plates A
and A', a lateral plate A³, near the bottom, a central lateral plate A³ near the
op another lateral plate A, this having a central circular opening and affording
hub support for a part of the hat rotating mechanism. As in the prior machine
he stretching devices consist of a ribbed "star" or "former" and co-operating
tretching fingers.

page_text: The "basket" or set of stretching fingers B, although embodying novel features
to be hereinafter fully described is as heretofore suspended from a cross head B¹
which as heretofore is carried on a pair of slidable rods a guided in the side
plates in bearings shown in Fig. 2 and coupled to a cross head B which in turn
is coupled by a pair of rod pitmen, one of which is at B3 to short armed cranks
at 1 on the main or driving shaft at B5 which for the best results should be so
speeded as to impart to the "basket" or stretching fingers 400 or more vertical
vibrative movements per minute.
I do not however confine myself to this number of vibrative movements per
minute of the stretching fingers as if desired they may vibrate less than 400
times per minute.
The ribbed former or "star" C like those in the prior machine, has curved
radial ribs for co-operating with the stretching fingers. Only three sizes of
former are necessary to provide for working on the several sizes of hats, because
the stretching fingers are so adjustable as to provide for so working with the
three formers, as to stretch the tips of all sizes of hats.
This former C, is as heretofore firmly mounted upon a slidable spindle C¹ which
is coupled at its cross head C by links C3 to a counter weighted lever C, on a
shaft C. This counterbalance weight may however be dispensed with if desired.
Vertical movements are imparted to the spindle and ribbed former as heretofore
by a cam on a counter shaft C6, but this spindle cam C, involves novel features
in construction, as will be hereinafter further described.
The construction and controlling mechanism of the brim clamp involve many
features of substantial novelty. The lower clamping ring and upper clamping
ring are now so organized that one pair co-operates with three sizes of "formers
whereas in the old machine each "former" required at least its own pair of
clamping rings.
The hat brim clamp is composed of a lower clamping ring D, and an upper
clamping ring D₁ the two being constructed and organised so as to properly
clamp all sizes of hat bodies, the upper clamping ring being loosely carried on
an annular cross head D2 coupled by two vertical links (not shown) to arms D³
on a rock shaft D at the top of the machine as shown in Fig. 2 and coupled to
the spindle lever C by an arm D5 and a link De as shown in Fig. 1 so that
with each full up and down movement of the spindle the upper clamping ring
will be fully lowered and raised oppositely to the full vertical movements of the
spindle. This novel construction of brim clamp is more particularly described
and illustrated with reference to Figs. 8 to 10.
When the spindle is elevated and the ribbed former placed and maintained
in co-operative relation to the stretching fingers, the upper clamping ring is
therefore fully lowered, so that it is then released from its cross head and carried
freely upon and by the lower clamping ring D the brim portion of a hat body
to be stretched being firmly clamped between them.
The upper clamping ring, as heretofore has several vertical guide rods which
carry near their tops an annular weight and also relatively couple said ring
to the operative mechanism by which it is rotated. Said operative mechanism
separately considered, is like that of the prior machine herein before referred to,
and it consists of a bevel gear on the shaft C driving a vertical shaft D7 geared
at its top by way of a gear and an idler gear to a toothed ring De riding upon
an annular hub or bearing on the top plate A of the frame said ring having
holes through which the several guide rods of the upper clamping ring pass for
rotatively coupling them together, while admitting of free vertical movement
by the clamping ring D¹.
The lower clamping ring D is concentrically arranged with reference to the
ribbed former, and although it is carried and moved by and with the spindle
it is rotative and also capable of independent vertical movements, it being freely
rotative on a collar which is slidably mounted on a slidable sleeved cross head
and counter balanced thereon by a weighted lever, as more particularly described

page_text: and illustrated with reference to Figs. 7 to 10 of the drawings. The cross head a
is coupled by a pair of links (one at a¹) to an underlying bell crank lever a³
pivoted in the cross head C on the spindle C. The cross head a has a pendent
hinged yoke a³ carrying at its lower end at one side a stud with a roller thereon
at a which has a rolling abutment against the edge of a vertical arm or lever E
pivoted at its foot to the lower lateral frame plate A so that while the lever E
stands vertically the lower clamping ring may move up and down with the
spindle C. The yoke a is provided with an adjusting screw as which by
abutting against the lower arm of the bell crank lever a enables the lower
clamping ring to be adjusted up or down with reference to the former for co-
operating with the upper ring in properly clamping different sizes of hat bodies,
the position shown indicating a middle adjustment as for medium sizes. Now
for lifting the brim clamp so as to assure the complete release of a hat body
from the ribbed former during each intermitting drop and break in the stretching
operation the lever E is inwardly actuated simultaneously with each brief drop
of the spindle and former.
The lever E is provided at its upper end at its outer edge with an outwardly
extended cam face, as at a and the cam lever E3 freely pivoted or hinged on the
rock shaft C and having a pendent roll bearing on the cam E has also a roll a
at its free outer end in rolling contact with the cam face a so that when each
spur on the cam (Figs. 1 and 4) lifts the cam lever E the lever E is thrown
inwardly causing a corresponding movement of the yoke a and also of the lower
portion of the bell crank lever a which lifts and supports the lower clamping
ring with the hat body, clamped between it and the upper clamping ring thus
freeing the hat body from the ribbed former at each of its short intermitting
downward movements. The cam E' as shown in Fig. 1 has lifting and lowering
faces or spurs as located so as to operate at the foot of each lowering face or notch
of the spindle cam C.
I have hereinbefore generally referred to my improvement in the set of stretching
fingers B which I will now particularly describe with special reference to Figs. 5
and 6. Each individual stretching finger b is hinged to a hub & provided with
a screw threaded stem, the upper portion of which with suitable wheel nuts and
a collar afford means for adjustably but firmly mounting the fingers in a pendent
position at any desired height upon the rapidly reciprocated cross head B before
referred to. The hub b¹ has a series of radial arms 63 to which the fingers b are
hinged by means of yokes on the fingers and hinge pins & each of which is
secured in place by a lateral pin as clearly indicated.
Each finger b is coupled by a hinged link e to an annular plate el carried by
a screw threaded sleeve mounted on the lower portion of the screw threaded
stem, so that as heretofore the rotation of the sleeve will adjust the fingers at
different degrees of inclination for working on different sizes of hat bodies.
This set of fingers differs from any heretofore known to me in that at the upper end
of each the inner or working edge as at 64 is curved in the are of a circle of which
the axis of its hinge pin 63 is the centre, and said upper ends are closely grouped
so that in all of the positions of angular adjustment 'the upper ends of the fingers
as a whole can and do uniformly maintain close relations to each other, and
afford an underlying space which closely conforms to the apex of the ribbed
former C and enables the centre of the tip of a hat body to be so fully worked or
stretched over and around said apex as to obviate the central protuberance in
the hat tip hereinbefore referred to which is developed to a more or less degree
by the use of each of the prior adjustable radial pendent stretching fingers of
which I have any knowledge.
Another novel feature in connection with these stretching fingers, is the com-
bination therewith of a steam dome or bell F provided with a lateral nozzle at d
for the reception of the end of a flexible steam pipe (not shown) and I have so
shaped the dome and so mounted it on the annular plate c' that it allows of the
expansibie adjustment of the fingers, So far as I know I am the first to so

page_text: apply steam to a hat stretching machine that the steam and the resultant heat
and moisture may be directed to and distributed among the stretching fingers,
and over the exterior surface of the hat body with which the fingers operatively
engage.
I am aware that steam has been previously applied to. the interior of the hat
body by way of the spindle which carried the ribbed former. In my machine
however the steam dome while fed with steam not only performs the novel
function of keeping the stretching fingers hot, and lubricating them with moisture
but when the dome is employed in connection with the feeding of steam by way
of the spindle to the interior of the hat, the rapid reciprocation of the dome
with its puffing steam effects, so causes the inner fed steam to be held by the
felt as to secure with uniformity both the heat and moisture well known to be
necessary during the stretching operation.
I have hereinbefore stated that the spindle cam C7 involves novel features in
construction which will now be described in connection with Fig. 3.
In this cam the initial lifting face is at e and it has six notches or abrupt
dropping and lifting faces as at el in each instance. The novel feature of this
cam is that the peripheral faces are eccentric, and hence each is a gradual lifting
face. The initial lifting face ate of the cam carries the ribbed former into
co-operative relations with the reciprocating stretching fingers whereupon the
face gradually further lifts the former about one eighth of an inch; then after
the first abrupt drop at the first notch e', the next lift is to the height from which
it was dropped and then the peripheral face gradually carries the ribbed
former and hat body about one eighth of an inch higher than before and so
increasing with each of the other peripheral faces f and f³ the spindle with
the ribbed former then being at the highest point, and at which time the
main work of the stretching devices will have been completed.
At the peripheral face f the line of eccentricity is reversed so that said face f
first supports the hat body and former at the height to which it has been lifted
by the face then gradually lowers it about one eighth of an inch and after the
next abrupt lowering, the face f after first supporting the hat at its last previous
height as before, gradually lowers it, the last face f in like manner lowering
the hat body and former to a point about one eighth of an inch higher than the
point at which the stretching operation was begun under the control of the face f.
The several concentric dotted lines in Fig. 3 are employed merely for aiding the a
eye in appropriately following the eccentric working lines of the several peripheral
faces which are in fact portions of a double scroll cam.
It is now to be understood that the stretching fingers may be reciprocated in
my machine much more rapidly than in the prior tip stretcher hereinbefore
referred to if desired and that in the present machine the hat body is completely
freed from the action of the stretching devices (finger and former) several times
during the progressive stretching operation and for those reasons I am enabled
to apply rotative power continuously to the clamping rings without liability of
distorting the hat body.
The gradual lowering of the ribbed former and hat body as described coupled
with the intermediate full release of the hat body from the stretching devices
enables the stretching devices to not only surely eliminate line marks from the felt,
but it enables the body of the felt to evenly readjust itself from a necessary over
stretched to its properly stretched and expanded condition the action of the fingers
being very rapid and successively lighter and lighter as in such jiggering action
as is desirable and effective in all felting operations.
It is not to be understood that the spindle cam must have any particular number
of notches e as long as the notches with the corresponding spurs as of the brim
clamp cam E¹ are sufficient in number for securing such an intermitting and
proper clearance of the hat body from the stretching devices, as will prevent the
constantly operating hat rotative mechanism from twisting and distorting the
hat body.

page_text: In dotted lines in Figs. 3 and 4 respectively I have indicated the outlines of
cams which I have employed for controlling the former spindle C and the vertical
movements of the hat clamp with results equal to and in some respects better
than those derived from the use of the six notched cam C and the cam E¹.
The said dotted line form of the modified cam C7 has the long gradual lifting
faces and but three notches like e and the modification of the cam has but
three spurs which are arranged to operate in time with the drop notches of the
other cam.
With three such gradual lifting peripheral faces, and the two intervening
notches and with such a clamp cam the clearance of the hat is fully effected
for enabling the hat rotating mechanism to operate without liability of distorting
the hat.
With the three notched cam more time is devoted to actual stretching during
each rotation than with the six notched cam and the progressive action of three
of the faces results in such complete stretching that the fourth or last face can
be wholly utilized for eliminating line marks and assuring the desired
adjustment of the felt.
re-
For indicating to those not familiar with such machines the manner in which
the driving power is applied distributed and controlled in my machine I will
state that as heretofore power is initially applied to the main shaft 135 which
(although not shown) is provided with a balance wheel, in view of the high speed
at which the stretching fingers are reciprocated; the main shaft is belted by
way of cone pullies (not shown) to the upper or clutch shaft G which as hereto-
fore has a spring clutch at G¹ a starting lever at G³ which when set is in the
path of a vertical stop pin G3 carried on a lateral bracket by the spindle C¹ so that
after starting the machine by releasing the clutch lever all but the reciprocating
fingers will be stopped by the release of the clutch lever after each complete
stretching operation concluding when the cam C7 fully lowers the spindle.
The clutch shaft is geared to an underlying idler shaft H which in turn is
geared to the slowly driven cam shaft C one complete rotation of which assures
the proper stretching of a hat body in about twenty seconds.
Steam for the dome and former is controlled by way of stops cocks shown in
Figs. 8 to 11 which are automatically opened and closed by operative connections
with a lever controlled by way of the cam shaft, at each complete lifting and
lowering of the spindle C¹ as hereinafter described with reference to Figs. 8
to 11.
With power applied to the main shaft of the machine, the fingers B rapidly
reciprocated as described and the clutch shaft in motion all other working parts
of the machine being at rest and in the positions shown, the attendant places a
hat body properly wet and heated over the ribbed former Cand evenly upon the
lower clamping ring D. He then releases the clutch lever G³ from the stop pin,
permitting it to occupy its working position whereupon the cam shaft C begins
to rotate and the spindle C¹ commences to rise lifting the former C and the lower
clamping ring and simultaneously lowering the upper clamping ring 11 which
clamps the brim portion of the hat body and by its weight overcoming the
counter weight of the lower ring forces the hat body well upon the ribbed former
before the latter reaches the position at which the reciprocating fingers engage
with the hat body; the stretching fingers having begun their operation and the
hat clamp being slowly rotated. The ribbed former and hat body is slowly forced
upwardly by the first peripheral face of the cam C and then the first notch in
said cam abruptly drops the ribbed former, one of the spurs on the cam E¹ then
acting for forcing the top of the vertical abutment lever E inwardly and lifting both
clamping rings and the hat body, thus effecting a brief but complete clearance
of the hat body from the stretching devices, this being followed by a forcible
return of the hat body to the ribbed former, due to the downward action of the
clamp and the next short quick lift of the ribbed former.
These movements in the machine shown are twice more repeated the ribbed

page_text: former and the hat being each time gradually forced upwardly from the point
cccupied at the time of the last preceding drop and after these four intermitting
gradual lifts there are three similarly short abrupt lowering and lifting move-
ments of the hat body, with appropriate movements of the hat clamp and between
each of these abrupt intermitting movements, the hat body properly clamped
supported and rotated is gradually lowered for enabling the stretching fingers to
operate with less and less forcible contact with the tip and to eliminate the line
marks while perfecting the stretching operation after which the spindle is fully
dropped and the stop motion operated the upper clamping ring having been
again lifted to its normal position of rest and the stretched hat body ready for
removal the whole operation occupying about twenty seconds. With the machine
modified only by the variation in the cams C7 and E¹ which I have employed
as described the mode of operation is the same as in the machine Fig. 1 excepting
as to the lesser number of intermitting abrupt drops and lifts and the longer
periods of gradually raising the ribbed former and gradually forcing the hat body
within the range of operation by the stretching fingers.
In Figs. 7 to 16 I have described and illustrated modifications of my improve-
ments in automatic tip stretching apparatus.
The frame of the machine is as usual composed of cast metal plates bolted
together and includes the side plates A and A¹ a lateral plate A3 near the bottom
and a central lateral plate A³ another plate A near the top has a large central
annular opening and serves as a hub support for a part of the hat rotating
mechanism and also as a frame plate.
In this instance the set of stretching fingers shown at B are similar to those
heretofore employed in the prior machine and they are suspended from a cross
head a by a spindle b and provided with the usual means for adjusting the fingers
at angles or positions appropriate to properly working on tips of hats of various
sizes. The cross head a is firmly carried on vertical slidable rods a¹ and a2 and
having suitable upper and lower guide bearings and mounted at their lower ends
upon a cross head a³ which is operatively coupled by pitmen a to appropriate
cranks a5 on the main shaft B¹.
The cranks as of this machine have much less throw than those in the prior
automatic tip stretching machine (about one half) and the machine is so organized
that the main shaft B may if desired be driven at a much higher speed affording
to the fingers nearly double the number of vibrations per minute than they
could be properly operated at in the old machine.
The ribbed "former" C in this instance is unlike that employed in the prior
automatic tip stretcher but it is similar to such as have been heretofore employed
in hand operated machines and it is specially valuable inasmuch as its curved
radial ribs are connected by inclined lateral ribs affording angular spaces
into which the appropriate stretching fingers force portions of the tip of a hat
body in the act of stretching and also because the ribs e serve to prevent undue
adhesion of the hat body to the radial ribs of the "former" and thereby facilitate
the rotative movement of the hat body thereon. As usual in tip stretchers three
sizes of "formers" are, required for the many different sizes of hat bodies, the
stretching fingers requiring a corresponding adjustment and as here shown these
parts are adapted to operate on the several medium sizes of hats.
The "former" has a base piece mounted upon a vertical slidable spindle C¹
having suitable guide bearings in the lateral plates A² and A³. Vertical motion
is imparted to the spindle and "former" by means of a cross head d secured
to the spindle near its lower end, a link d', lever and a cam C2 on a cam shaft D
the lever d having for its fulcrum a rock shaft and having a rearwardly
extending arm provided with a weight adjustable thereon for partially
counter-balancing the spindle and its load and securing smooth and easy operation
between the cam C2 and an anti-friction roll on the lever .
The cam C although indicated in several
separately shown in Fig. 15.
figs. in its working position, is

page_text: This cam C differs slightly in construction from the cam C Fig. 3 in the
following particulars.
It has a seat can initial long lifting face and six equally separated lifting
faces with corresponding drop faces but the cam C has its several lifting faces
formed eccentric so that each face has a gradual lifting effect as described.
In this cam C the initial lifting face at craises the spindle and the ribbed
former to within three eighths of an inch of the highest position, and the first
resting face at holds the spindle until the first drop is reached. The next or
second lifting face raises the spindle one eighth of an inch higher than before,
where it is maintained by the resting face c until the next drop after which
the spindle is raised another one eighth of an inch to the resting face 8 and then
again to its full length at face cat which it is maintained by the resting faces clo
and c with the intervening dropping of the spindle but the terminal lifting face
has a capacity like that of the third so that the resting face c holds the spindle
and ribbed former at one eighth of an inch below its highest position after which
it is dropped the roll d³ of lever d³ then occupying the stop seat at c. It will be
noted that each face is formed concentric to the axis of the cam as indicated by
the dotted lines.
This lifting and lowering organization gradually presents a hat body to the
action of the tip stretching devices and intermittingly releases it therefrom for
enabling its rotation and just before the spindle is finally lowered the hat is so
lightly presented to the stretching fingers that they remove the creases in the tip,
which resulted from the final stretching action.
As before referred to with reference to Fig. 1 the brim clamp in its construc-
tion and its controlling mechanism involve many features of substantial novelty
and I will now describe more particularly the construction and controlling
mechanism of the same.
The brim clamp includes a lower clamping ring F and an upper clamping
ring and these as previously stated are now so organized that the one pair
co-operate with the three sizes of ribbed formers whereas in the old machine
each "former" required at least its own pair of clamping rings.
The lower clamp ring F has a hub e and is concentric with the spindle C¹ it
being slidably mounted upon a cross head f which has a vertical sleeve f¹ and
is slidably mounted on the spindle. The ring is rotative upon said cross head
but is secured thereto by means of a nut f at the top of said sleeve. Below the
hub of the ring F there is a slidable collar f³ on the sleeve f¹ which is supported
by a forked lever f' fulcrumed on links at f5 pivoted to the foot of the cross head
at its rear end having on its outer end a slidable weight f which is adjustable
thereon and secured thereto by means of a bolt f all as clearly shown in Figs. 8,
9 and 10.
The mounting of the lower clamping ring upon a slidable sleeve which is
vertically adjustable on the spindle, is a valuable feature whether or not said
sleeve be a part of a cross head and regardless of the means by which it is
rendered adjustable because it is thereby adapted to clamp hat bodies of all sizes.
I have already described and illustrated with reference to Fig. 1 a method
whereby the cross head actuating the lower brim clamp is adjusted for varying
sizes of hat bodies. The following however is a modified method which may
be used if desired.
The cross head f is carried upon two links g g which at their lower ends are
hinged to the horizontal end of a bell crank lever g' (shown detached in Fig. 13)
which is fulcrumed upon a pin g³ carried by arms projecting from the cross head d
by way of which the lifting mechanism is connected with the spindle C near its
foot.
Upon this same fulerum pin ga pendent yoke g³ is hinged as shown in detail
in Fig. 12. This yoke is provided at one side with a lateral stud on which a
roll is mounted and it also has at its lower end a central hub which is screw
threaded and occupied by an adjusting screw g³ provided with a lock nut go. The

page_text: roll has a rolling abutment, against the coincident edge of a vertical arm or
lever which is pivotted at its base (as indicated in Figs. 8 and 10) and capable
of being vibrated but which nevertheless always serves as an abutment for the
yoke g³ the vertical bearing edge of said arm being normally parallel with the spindle,
so that when the machine is at rest on turning the adjusting screw g the bell
crank lever g¹ may be so set as to locate the lower clamping ring F (with its cross
head and weight) at either of its three positions of adjustment; i.e. raised from
the position shown, for co-operating with a larger ribbed former or lowered when
used with a "former" adapted to stretch the tips of smaller hat bodies.
The vibrative lever h before referred to when its top is moved to and fro so
swings the pendent yoke gas to actuate the bell crank lever gl which causes
the clamping ring F, (with whatever it may be carrying) to be lifted from and
lowered to any one of its positions of adjustment.
The lever his intermittingly actuated by means of a brim clamp cam F³ on
the cam shaft ; said cam has six lifting faces h with appropriate
drop faces and the cam is so set with relation to the spindle cam C³ that the
faces operate practically simultaneously with the drop faces of the spindle
cam, as is clearly indicated in Fig. 4. Power is communicated from the cam Fa
to an arm h2 having a roll at one end for contact with the face of the cam and
at the other end keyed to a rock shaft h³ carrying at one end an arm h coupled
by a link h³ to an arm on another rock shaft h which is at the front of the
machine and has a pendent arm 8 provided with a lateral pin or stud which
occupies a vertical slot hº in the upper end of the lever h. This organization for
lifting the brim clamp independently of the spindle would have substantial
value, in a machine having no hat rotating mechanism in which case the hat
being always fully released from the ribbed former could be promptly rotated
by hand.
It will be seen that the actual lifting action of the cam Fa upon the brim
clamp is not great and it might be less even than is indicated by the comparative
diameters of the cams Fa and C2 it being only important that the cam F should
assume full control over the brim clamp during the short descents of the ribbed
former.
It will also be seen that the yoke g and the bell crank lever g¹ are enabled
to co-operate because of the abutment of the adjusting screw against the pendent
arm of the bell crauk lever, and should the adjusting capacity be otherwise
provided for it will be obvious that the hell crank lever and the yoke might be
consolidated into one piece; as for instance as illustrated in Fig. 16 wherein
the pendent arm of said lever is shown with a lateral stud for the roll g. With
this arrangement the adjustment of the position of the clamping ring would be
effected by practically elongating the links between the bell crank lever and the
cross head f. As shown in this Fig. 16 the links g g are rigidly united at their lower
ends by a yoke piece 96 through which extends a screw threaded rod or link g
which is made to serve as a rigid link extension, by means of the hand nuts g
and g the lower end of the said rod or link being pivoted to the horizontal arm
of the bell crank lever and the hand nuts enabling the adjustment of the cross
head which carries the lower clamping ring.
The upper clamping ring F differs in many ways in its construction and in its
organization with its controlling mechanism from the corresponding ring in the
apparatus described in Specification No. 12205 of 1887.
This upper brim clamp ring F¹ normally rests upon a cross head i comprising
an annular plate bolted to two guide bearings which are slidably mounted on the
reciprocated rods a¹ and a2 these serving as guides for said cross head as well as
for operating the stretching fingers. This cross head i is suspended by links i i
from the ends of arms or levers on a rock shaft having an arm. which is
coupled by a pendent link with the lever d which lifts and lowers the
spindle C¹.
The upper ring F is readily lifted by the lower ring from the supporting cross

page_text: head during the stretching operation and it is lowered as the spindle and
"former" rises but when the spindle is lowered the cross head carries the upper
ring upwardly leaving space above the lowered "former" favourable to the
prompt and ready application of hat bodies to the "former" and their removal
therefrom. In order that this upper ring may do proper clamping duty it is
made sufficiently heavy by an annular weight 2 carried upon several vertical
rods or posts 27 which are firmly mounted upon the ring and have lateral pins
for supporting the weight, and are thus adapted to receive additional weights if
need be.
The lower clamping ring F being free to rotate power is applied to the upper
clamping ring F¹ for rotating the brim clamp as a whole with a hat body when
properly interposed between the rings. In the apparatus shown in Fig. 1 a spur
gear is employed but in the modifications shown in Figs. 7, 8 and 10 I employ
a ratchet wheel having an annular bearing hub on the lateral frame plate A.
Instead of serving as a support for the upper ring and its weight, as the spur
gear does, this ratchet wheel k carries no burdens because the rods or posts i
slide freely in holes provided therefor in the rim of the wheel and the upper ring
and its weight is always either supported by the cross head i as when out of
service or by the lower clamping ring when both are in actual service and engaged
with a hat body.
In the apparatus described with reference to Fig. 1 of the drawings power is
continuously applied to the brim clamp by way of a spur gear, while the clamp
is in actual service and also from the time the ribbed former commences to rise
until it is fully dropped.
Instead of the continuous rotation of the brim clamp the brim clamp may be
rotated intermittingly by way of the ratchet wheel and only when the hat body
is not engaged by the stretching fingers the ribbed former being then dropped
away from the fingers and the hat body then having been lifted and freed from
adhesive contact with the ribbed former.
This intermitting rotation of the brim clamp is effected by the following
mechanism.
The ratchet wheel k rests upon and does not leave its annular bearing on the
lateral frame plate A and power is applied thereto by way of a horizontal pawl
held against the teeth of the wheel by a spring and Hexibly coupled by a bolt to a
block secured to the end of the pendent arm of a bell crank lever having its fulcrum
on a stud projecting from bracket rearwardly extended from the top of a
side plate of the frame, as clearly indicated in Figs. 7, 9 and 10. The horizontal
arm of the bell crank lever is slotted to afford an adjustable coupling, by means
of a clamp bolt with the top of a rod 5 which at its foot is hinged to one end of
an arm the other end being loosely hinged upon the rock shaft E. The outer
or free end of the arm k carries a roller which bears upon the face of a cam G
on the cam shaft D. This cam G has a series of lifting faces and lowering
faces so set with relation to the several lowering faces of the spindle cam C³
that each time the latter causes the partial lowering of the ribbed former the
cam G actuates the pawl and imparts to the brim clamp (and to the hat body
carried by it) sufficient rotative movement to insure the presentation of fresh
portions of the tip to the action of the stretching devices. It is of course im-
material to portions of the present invention by what means power is communi-
cated from the cam G to the brim clamp, so long as the step by step, or ratchet
action, is provided for when the hat body has been lifted from the ribbed former,
and free from the stretching fingers.
In addition to the steam dome particularly described and shown with reference
to Fig. 5 of the drawings for supplying steam to the exterior of the hat body and
keeping the stretching fingers hot and lubricating them with moisture I also
provide means for conducting steam to the interior of the hat body.
The spindle Cat its upper end carries an inverted cup m which is within the
ribbed former and adapted to deliver steam within a hat body during the tip

page_text: stretching operation, the spindle being tubular to serve as a duct, and having a
lateral induction pipe or nozzle at m³ (Figs. 8 and 9) which by means of a flexible
tube shown in dotted lines in Figs. 7 and 8 is coupled with the nozzle ma of the
steam cock m" through which steam intermittingly passes from the supply
pipe m. This steam cock is automatically operated by the cam which actuates
the lever which lifts and lowers the spindle carrying the ribbed former the cock
being connected with said lever by a link m coupled to an arm m see Fig. 11,
which is keyed to the outer end of the rock shaft E to which rocking motion is
imparted by the lever when tilted by the spindle actuating cam C and hence
the supply of steam to the hat body will be varied according to the position of
the ribbed former and its relation to the overlying stretching devices. The ap
plication of steam enables the apparatus to perform its work with great rapidity
and without liability of injuring hat bodies. I am aware that steam has been
previously applied to the interior of hat bodies when being stretched and I make
no claim to this application of steam to the interior of the hat body. This method
of supplying steam automatically to the interior of the hat body may be used in
conjunction with the steam dome illustrated in Fig. 5.
The application of power to the several shafts in the machine is fully indicated
in Figs. 7 and 8. The main shaft is belted from cone pullies on it to smaller
similar pullies on a counter shaft H carrying a centrally located friction clutch
having specially large contact faces and a small gear n at its outer end, which
meshes with a large gear n¹ on one end of another countershaft H' which in turn
by gears and n³ is coupled to the cam shaft D.
The friction clutch H is controlled by a spring and by a hand lever H as in
prior hat machines and the automatic stopping mechanism which limits the
movement of the cam shaft to one complete revolution is as heretofore.
As shown in Figs. 8, 9 and 10 there is the usual spring actuated shipper yoke p
on a rock shaft having at its inner end a lateral lever 2 which underlies the
hand lever H, this latter when the machine is at work, being in the path of the
pendent stop pin which is carried on a rigid arm projecting from the spindle C
so that as the latter descends after completing the tip stretching operation, the
hand lever is depressed which in turn overcomes the spring which forces the faces
of the friction clutch into adhesive or driving contact.
The operation of the machine constructed as described with reference to
Figs. 7 to 16 embodying the modification hereinbefore described, and having its
main shaft driven at about 400 revolutions or thereabouts per minute and with
the cam shaft being at rest, is substantially as follows.
A hat body taken from an adjacent hot water or steaming kettle, is placed
upon the ribbed former and over the lower clamping ring; the hand lever H
is then moved to one side, whch permits the spring of the clutch H to act for
driving the cam shaft I)."
As the hat is being lifted, the upper clamping ring descends until it is freed
from its cross head and has engaged with the hat body and clamped it at the
lower ring F and by its weight so far overcome the clamp balance weight fo as to
cause the hat body to be evenly and lightly pulled downwardly upon the "former."
The tip of the hat body is then lightly presented to the stretching fingers for a
few seconds, steam being in the meantime freely delivered within the hat body;
the spindle is then so lowered as to free the hat body from the stretching fingers,
and simultaneously therewith, the hat is freed from the ribbed former by the
lifting action of the brim clamp which is then so rotated as to present fresh
portions of the tip of the hat to the action of the stretching fingers. The hat
body is again raised slightly higher than before, to enable the stretching devices
to properly operate, after which the lowering and lifting is repeated twice with
intermediate rotation and each time with an increased extent of the hat lifting
movement and then it is lifted twice, to the same (or full) height with the same
intermediate lowering and rotating movements thus completing the stretching
operation, which is followed by a final rotation and a lifting of the hat to a lesser

page_text: height than before, so that the stretching fingers, by lightly operating on the tip,
will eliminate the creases therein which were formed by the ribs and the fingers
during the stretching operation. The spindle is then fully dropped the steam cut
off the upper clamping ring elevated, to its highest position and the stop motion
operated, the entire operation occupying from twenty to twenty five seconds
according to the speed at which the clutch shaft H may be driven.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is:-
1. In an automatic hat tip stretching machine, the combination with tip
stretching fingers and means for rapidly reciprocating them, of a ribbed former
co-operating with said fingers as a portion of the stretching devices, a constantly
rotative brim clamp which engages with a hat body interposed between the ribbed
former and the fingers, and mechanism which lifts or controls the clamp and
lowers the ribbed former intermittingly during the stretching operation for
briefly releasing the hat body from the action of the stretching devices and
obviating liability of distortion of the hat body by the constant rotation of the
brim clamp substantially as described and shown."
2. In an automatic hat tip stretching machine, the combination of the tip
stretching devices, consisting of the vibrative stretching fingers and the ribbed
former; a constantly rotative brim clamp, a notched cam which during the
stretching operation progressively lifts the ribbed former into co-operating rela-
tions with the stretching fingers and intermittingly lowers said former, and a
cam which lifts or controls the brim clamp for releasing the hat body from the
stretching devices and enables the clamp to constantly operate for rotating a hat
body during the entire stretching operation without liability of distorting the
hat body substantially as described and illustrated with reference to Figs. 1 to 4
of the drawings.
3. In an automatic hat tip stretching machine, the combination with a rotative
hat clamp of rapidly vibrative stretching fingers, a ribbed formed and a cam C7
having a series of lifting faces which gradually raise the ribbed former into
closer relations with the stretching fingers, and having a notch between each
two of said faces which briefly drop and raise the ribbed former from and to
its working position, and also having faces which gradually lower the ribbed
former while still co-operating with the stretching fingers, and still further having
other notches for briefly dropping and raising said ribbed former during said
gradual lowering, and means for causing the clamp to release the hat body from
the ribbed former, at each of the brief dropping movements substantially as
described with reference to Sheets 1 and 2 of the drawings.
4. In a hat tip stretching machine, the improved set of adjustable hinged
stretching fingers having their upper or inner ends closely grouped and the edge
at each inner end of each finger curved in the arc of a circle of which the hinging
pin of the finger is the centre, whereby regardless of the variations in the adjust-
ment of said fingers for properly co-operating with ribbed formers of different
sizes and in working upon hat bodies of all sizes, a space will be assured beneath
said grouped finger ends that will conform to the apex of the ribbed former and
enable the fingers and ribs to perform full stretching duty closely adjacent to the
centre of the tip, substantially as described and illustrated with reference to
Figs. 5 and 6 of the drawings.
5. In a hat stretching machine, the combination with hinged stretching fingers
and their adjusting links, of a steam dome or bell F provided with an induction
pipe, for supplying it with steam, and overlaying and surrounding the stretching
fingers and their links, whereby during the stretching action of the fingers upon
an underlying felted hat body, the exterior of the hat body may be kept hot and
moist, and the fingers kept well heated and lubricated by moisture at their points

page_text: of contact with the felt, and enabling the stretching operation to be rapidly con-
ducted with safety to the hat body substantially as described and illustrated with
reference to Fig. 5 of the drawings.
6. In a hat stretching machine, the combination with the spindle C and the
operative mechanism by which the ribbed former C is carried, lifted and lowered,
and with a brim clamping ring D carried by the said spindle and provided with
a bell crank lever a2 and links a' which are adapted to impart to the said ring D
independent vertical movements, and also provided with a pendent yoke as which
engages with the free arm of said bell crank lever a² of a vertical lever E which
engages with said yoke and is provided with a cam face at its upper end, an
actuating cam E and a hinged lever resting on said cam and in engaging
contact at its free end with the cam face on said lever E for imparting to said
lever a vibrative movement and securing to the brim clamp its independent vertical
movements, substantially as described and illustrated with reference to Fig. 1 of
the drawings.
7. In an automatic hat tip stretching machine, the combination with tip
stretching devices, of brim clamping rings, a ratchet wheel and pawl mechanism,
operatively coupled to one of the said rings the other being free to rotate; and a
cam which is operatively connected with said mechanism and intermittingly
operates it substantially as described, for imparting to both of the clamping rings
sufficient rotary movement to enable the presentation of various portions of the
tip of a clamped hat body to the action of the tip stretching devices substantially
as described and illustrated with reference to Figs. 7 to 15 of the drawings.
8. In an automatic hat tip stretching machine, the combination with the
stretching devices, of a brim clamp and means for rotating it, and a cam which
lifts and lowers said brim clamp at intervals and while the stretching devices are
inoperative whereby a hat body carried by the clamp is wholly freed from the
hat supporting portion of the stretching devices preparatory to rotation sul➤
stantially as described and illustrated in Figs. 7 to 15 of the drawings.
9. In a hat tip stretching machine, the combination with a ribbed former and
its spindle of a cam which during each rotation intermittingly lifts and lowers
said former an upper clamping ring; a lower brim clamping ring concentric to
said former, and adapted to support the overlying clamping ring with an inter-
posed hat body, and a cam which intermittingly lifts said clamping rings, sub-
stantially as described and illustrated with reference to Figs. 7 to 15 of the
drawings.
10. In a hat tip stretching machine, the combination substantially as herein-
before described of a ribbed former a lower brim clamping ring vertically
adjustable with relation to the ribbed former, and an upper brim clamping ring
which when clamping a hat body is carried by the lower ring, whereby hat bodies
of all sizes may not only be properly clamped by the one pair of rings, but each
hat body be properly seated upon the ribbed former substantially as described and
illustrated.
11. In a hat tip stretching machine, the combination with a ribbed former
carried on a slidable spindle, of a slidable sleeve on said spindle, a brim clamping
ring slidable on said sleeve and concentric with said former, and means for variably
locating said sleeve vertically on the spindle, substantially as described, for
enabling said clamping ring and its upper co-operating weighted ring, to properly
co-operate with ribbed formers of various sizes, and to properly clamp hat bodies
of all sizes, substantially as described and illustrated.
12. In a hat tip stretching machine, the combination with the slidable spindle
which carries the ribbed former and the main cross head by which said spindle
is coupled to its controlling mechanism, of a brim clamping ring, and a sleeved
cross head carrying said ring and slidably mounted on said spindle; a bell crank
lever on said main arm cross head; links coupling said lever with the sleeved
cross head, and a cam with appropriate mechanism between it and the bell crank

page_text: lever, substantially as described, for vibrating the lever and controlling the lifting
and lowering of the clamping ring, independently of the vertical movements of
the spindle and ribbed former substantially as described and illustrated with
reference to Figs. 7 to 16 of the drawings.
13. In a hat tip stretching machine, the combination with the ribbed former,
its spindle and the main cross head by which the spindle is coupled to its
actuating mechanism, of a brim clamping ring, a sleeved cross head carrying
said ring and slidably mounted on said spindle; a bell crank lever on the main
cross head; links which couple the horizontal arm of said lever to the sleeved
cross head; a pendent hinged yoke on the main cross head; an adjusting screw
in said yoke which engages with the pendent arm of said lever for adjustably
raising and lowering the clamping ring, and an abutment for said yoke which
prevents its movement during the lifting adjustment of the clamping ring sub-
stantially as described and illustrated in Figs. 7 to 13 of the drawings.
14. In a hat tip stretching machine, the combination of a sleeve slidably mounted
and variably adjustable at fixed positions on the spindle which carries the ribbed
former; a brim clamping ring slidably mounted on said sleeve; a collar slidably
mounted below said ring on said sleeve and supported on a lever which is ful-
crumed on said sleeve and carries at its free end an adjustable weight, which
maintains the collar and clamping ring at the upper end of said sleeve substan-
tially as described and illustrated with reference to Figs. 7 to 13 of the drawings.
15. In a hat tip stretching machine, the combination with stretching fingers,
a ribbed former and its slidable spindle, of a spindle actuating cam C provided
with a series of lifting faces having progressively greater lifting capacities, and
also provided with intermediate carrying and lowering faces, substantially as
described and illustrated with reference to Figs. 7 to 15 of the drawings.
16. In a hat tip stretching machine, the combination with the stretching fingers
the ribbed former and its spindle, of a cam having a series of lifting and carrying
faces and which during each rotation, intermittingly lifts the spindle and places
the ribbed former into co-operative relations with the stretching fingers for
stretching the tip of a hat body, and also having a terminal carrying face lower
than the preceding face which at the completion of the stretching operation
carries the spindle and former at a slightly lowered position, substantially as
described for enabling the stretching fingers to lightly operate upon the stretched
tip of a hat body for removing the creases incident to the stretching operation
substantially as described and illustrated with reference to Figs. 7 to 15 of the
drawings.
17. In an automatic hat tip stretching machine, the combination with a lower
brim clamping ring, of an upper brim clamping ring, an intermittingly rotated
wheel to which said ring is coupled, an annular cross head on which said upper
ring is normally supported and controlling mechanism for said cross head, sub-
stantially as described, whereby the upper ring is automatically lowered from its
elevated normal position for placing it into, and leaving it in co-operative
clamping relations with the lower ring, and then lifted by said cross head to
its normal position at the completion of each stretching operation substantially
as described and illustrated with reference to Figs. 7 to 15 of the drawings.
18. The cam C7 formed with a series of gradual lifting and lowering faces and
provided with notches between the said lifting and lowering faces for the purposes
and substantially as described and illustrated with reference to Figs. 1 to 4 of
the drawings.
19. The modified form of cam C arranged and acting substantially as described
and illustrated in Figs. 7 to 15 of the drawings.
20. The general arrangement construction and combination of parts comprising
the improved hat stretching apparatus substantially as described and illustrated
in Figs. 1 to 6 of the drawings.
21. The general arrangement construction and combination of parts comprising

page_text: the improved hat stretching apparatus substantially as described and illustrated in
Figs. 7 to 15 of the drawings.
Did this 5th dose of Awenst 1897
Аррисани
E. K. DUTTON & Co.,
5 John Dalton Street, Manchester, Chartered Patent Agents.