provements in Sewing Machines for Blind and other Stitching.
Year: 1897

page_text: Date of Application, 21st Oct., 1897 Accepted, 5th Feb.,:1898
⚫ COMPLETE SPECIFICATION
Improvements in Sewing Machines for Blind and other Stitching.
I, JOSEPII ARBES, a citizen of the United States, Manufacturing Furrier, of
217, Mercer Street, New York, County and State of New York,. in the United
States of America, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained.in
and by the following statement :-
..My.invention relates to certain improvements in sewing machines which are
particularly valuable for effecting what is commonly known as blind stitching.
This form of stitching, is necessarily employed in sewing a lining to the inner
surface of a piece of cloth, or in hemming the. 'edge of a piece of cloth. Blind
stitching is also employed for sewing the lining upon furs, enclosing the wadding
between the lining and the skin, for instance, in lining fur trimming. Though
my improvements are particularly useful for blind stitching, the machine is also
capable of performing other forms of sewing as will be clear from the description.
The main feature of novelty in my-improved machine is the machine table or
cloth-supporting plate formed in two parts which are mounted respectively upon
the arms of an approximately U-shaped frame with their adjacent edges forming
a cloth opening or, slot in the path of the needle extending from side to side of
the machine to permit. the insertion of the cloth from either side.
I also combine with my improved, cloth supporting plate a spring actuated roller
located beneath the plate and having a tape wound upon the roller and provided
with cloth engaging means, whereby the tape may be passed up through the cloth
opening or slot and attached to the cloth or work and feed it over the feed plate and
down through the cloth opening to the feed-mechanism.
The feeding mechanism comprises preferably a pair of rubber faced feed rolls
one of which is mounted upon a spring-pressed head and is provided with a ratchet
feeding device. A controlling lever engages the spring pressed head for throwing
the feed rolls apart when it is desired to insert or remove a piece of work.
In order that my invention may be fully understood I will first describe the
same with reference to the accompanying drawings, and afterwards point out the
novelty with more particularity in the annexed claims:
Figure 1 is a front perspective view of my improved sewing machine.
Figure 2.is a front elevation, of the main parts of the same, parts being broken
away.
Figure 3 is a side elevation of the same with parts broken away.
Figure
4 is a detail view of the spring pawl of the ratchet feed.
Figure 5 is a detail perspective view of the feeding tape and part. of the spring
roll.
Figures 6 and 7 are sectional views illustrating the work of my improved
machine.
Figures 8 and 9 are detail front elevation, and end views of the needle guide roll
which is journaled in the feed plate.

page_text: 1 and 2 are side frames of an ordinary sewing machine and 3 is the main portion
of the sewing machine table mounted upon the side frames 1 and 2.
6 19
4 is the sewing machine arm and 5 is the head supported upon the arm.
the treadle operating the driving wheel 7 which drives the fly wheel 8 by means of
the belt 9. Fly wheel 8 is keyed to the end of a shaft 10 journaled in one side
of the sewing machine arm 4 and carrying at its inner end a bevel pinion 11 which
gears with a similar pinion 12 keyed to a shaft 13 journaled in the sewing machine
arm 4 and head 5. Shaft 13 carries a crank disc 14 at its forward end in the
head 5 and operates the needle bar 15 by means of a link 16 pivotally connected to
the crank disc at 17 and to a collar 18 upon the needle bar. 19 is the needle.
20 is the presser foot bar mounted in the sewing machine head 5 provided with
the spiral spring 21 which operates in the usual manner for forcing the presser
foot 22 downwardly into engagement with the cloth upon the feed table. The
presser foot 22 is preferably faced with rubber 221 as shown in the drawings.
In one edge of the sewing machine head 5 is formed a vertical slot 25 through
which projects an arm 26 rigidly secured to the presser foot bar 20. The arm 26
is pivoted to the lower end of a link 27 which is in turn pivoted to the end of a
crank 28 adjustably secured to the outer end of a rock shaft 29 journaled in the
sewing machine and extending parallel to the shaft 13.
44 is a cam finger journaled upon a bracket arm 45 adapted to engage the arm 26
for elevating the presser foot har 20 against the tendency of its spring 21.
30 is a rocker arm keyed to the rock shaft 29 inside of the arm 4, and 31 is a cam
secured to shaft 13 and adapted to rock the arm 30 and shaft 29 for intermittently
elevating the presser foot 22.
I have
35 represents a shuttle which may be of any suitable construction.
represented an oscillatory shuttle mounted upon a shaft 36 and connected by crank
arm 37 and link 38 with a cam 39 keyed to the shaft 13, by means of which the
shuttle is given a regular oscillatory motion.
The main feature of my invention consists of a machine table formed in two
parts with a free and unobstructed transverse slot or cloth opening between them
extending from side to side of the machine table to allow the insertion of a piece
of work from either side. To arrange the machine table in this manner I provide
an auxiliary frame 50 of substantially U-shape. This frame 50 has a horizontal
portion 50 extending toward the centre of the machine and rising vertically to
form an arm 50b which is rigidly secured or formed integral with a bracket or
casting 51 secured to the main machine frame directly beneath the sewing machine
arm 4. The U-shaped frame 50 has a forward arm 50° extending vertically and
formed with a socket 52 in its upper end in which is adjustably mounted an arm 53
which is formed with a horizontal projection 54 extending toward the central
plane of feed of the machine. 55 is a set screw for holding the arm 53 in any
desired adjusted position. 56 is a head secured to the end of the horizontal arm 54
and formed with a guide slot or groove in its upper face (not shown) in which
slides a guide plate 57 secured to the lower face of the auxiliary feed plate or
cloth plate 58 forming part of the machine table. 59 is an adjusting screw loosely
engaging the bracket 60 of the feed plate 58 and threaded into the head 56 of
arm 54, by which means the auxiliary feed plate 58 can be adjusted toward or
away from the stationary part 3 of the machine table.
The forward edge of the auxiliary feed plate 58 has set into it a small guide
roller 65 which is journaled freely therein for guiding the cloth around the end
of the feed plates. The roll 65 is formed with a series of cloth engaging points
or pins 67 arranged around its periphery at its ends. The points or pins 67 serve
to hold the cloth to prevent its stretching in either direction while the needle is
penetrating. In some cases it is unnecessary to provide the needle guide roller 65
with the cloth engaging points 67 and in such cases I have a plain grooved roller.
This plain roller is not illustrated in the drawings because its structure will be
perfectly clear from the above explanation.
70 is a grooved rubber faced feed roll freely journaled in the arms 71 rigidly

page_text: secured to and depending from the under face of the adjustable feed plate 58.
73 is a vertical movable head or support resting against the forward face of the
arm 50b and carrying the parallel rods 74 which depend from it and extend through
the perforated guide plates 75 secured to said arm 50b.
76 are spiral springs surrounding the rods 74 and engaging the lower guide
plate 75 at their lower ends and a pin 77 at their upper ends, which pin 77 passes
through the rods 74. The springs 76 tend to hold the head or support 73 upwardly
with a yielding pressure.
The head 73 is bifurcated or provided with two bearing arms 73 in which is
freely journaled the rubber faced feed roll 78. Keyed to the journal 79 of feed
roll 78 is a small ratchet wheel 80 and mounted upon one of the bearing arms 73
is a spring retaining pawl 81 in constant engagement with the ratchet wheel 80
for holding the roll 78 against backward rotation.
82 is an oscillatory arm freely journaled upon the journal 79 and formed with
a heel 83. 84 is a spring pawl secured to the oscillatory arm 82 and heel 83 having
its spring tooth in engagement with the ratchet 80 in rear of the stationary
retaining pawl 81. 85 is a lever pivoted at 86 and connected at its lower end 87
with a link 88 which is in turn pivoted to the oscillating arm 82. The upper end
of the lever 85 carries a friction roll 89 which works upon the face of a cam 90
keyed to the shaft 13. By the rotation of the shaft 13 the cam 90 imparts a regular
oscillating motion to the arm 82 which causes the feed roll 78 to rotate forwardly
step by step.
91 is a rock arm connected rigidly to the lever 85 and extending forwardly
through a vertical slot 92 formed in the sewing machine arm 4. 93 is an adjust-
able plate mounted upon a pin 94 and formed with a series of notches in its edge,
which notches gradually increase in depth from one end of the series toward the
other end. 95 is a thumb screw or nut engaging the threaded portion of the pin 94
and adapted to clamp the plate 93 in any desired adjusted position.
It will be clear that the purpose of the notched plate 93 is to engage the project-
ing end of arm 91 to limit its upward movement and thereby control the nearness
of the friction roll 89 to the face of cam 90. This will regulate the length of
the stroke of the oscillating pawl carrying arm 82 and consequently the length of
feed and the stitches taken in the material which is being sewed. I prefer to form
the plate 93 in the shape of a segment as shown and arrange five notches in its
edge which will differ sufficiently in depth to make a change of one tooth of
ratchet wheel 80 in the amount of feed imparted to the feed roll 78. In this way
I can impart a feeding stroke amounting to one tooth of the ratchet or to five
teeth of the ratchet which I have found to be sufficient for all practical purposes.
It will be observed that the head 73 under the influence of springs 76 will hold
the rubber faced feed roll 78 into peripheral contact with the companion feed
roll 70. To throw the feed rolls apart I provide a long lever 96 which is pivoted
at 97 and formed with the slot 98 at its forward end engaging a stud 99 projecting
from one face of the head 73. 100 is a treadle journaled between the side frames 1
and 2 and 101 is a connecting rod connecting the treadle 100 with the lever 96.
By the depression of the forward end of treadle 100 the feed rolls 78 are moved
apart to facilitate the insertion of the goods between their upper faces.
It sometimes occurs in sewing a number of thicknesses of goods that the needle
This sometimes
is forced a little out of line before it enters the shuttle case.
results in the breaking and bending of needles. To prevent such accidents I pro-
vide small lever 105 pivoted to the sewing machine table between lugs 106 and
carrying in its forward bifurcated end a small needle guide roller 107. This
needle guide roller 107 is preferably formed with a central peripheral groove to
properly guide the point of the needle into the opening 108 of the shuttle case 109.
When it is desired, the lever 105 may be thrown back out of operative position.
When in operation the roll 107 is supported just above the shuttle case 109.
115 is a rod projecting from the arm 53 and supported at its other end in a
bracket 116 which depends from the head 56. Journaled upon the rod 115 is a

page_text: tubular roller 117 carrying at one end a small pulley or drum 118 upon which is
wound a band or tape 119 provided at its free end with hooks or other fastening
devices 120. Coiled around the rod 115 within the tube 117 is a spiral spring 121
one end of which is secured to the rod 115 while the other end is attached to the
tubular roller 117, giving said roller a tendency to wind the tape 119 around the
drum 118. The purpose of this device is to start the material over the feed plate
and into the bite of the feed rolls 70 and 78.
It will be observed from the above description that the supports for my improved
cloth supporting plate together with the other operative parts of the machine are
so disposed that they will permit the free and unobstructed insertion of the work
from either side of the machine.
The operation of my improved machine may be described as follows:-157,
157 and 157 represent respectively a piece of cloth, a lining and a wadding which
are being sewed together with my improved blind stitching machine. The
materials may be inserted by drawing the tape 119 between the rolls 70 and 78
and hooking the hooks 120 in the forward edges of the several pieces, then allow-
ing the material to slide forward and around the inner edge of the feed plate, the
tension of spring 121 winding the tape 119 around the drum 118. As soon as the
edge of the material reaches the end of the feed plate the machine may be started
to sew from the extreme forward edge, the pull of the feed tape 119 being limited
by the regular feed of the roll 78. This will pull the material between the feed
rolls 70 and 78. If a circular piece of work is being sewed, the treadle 100 is
depressed for throwing the rolls 70 and 78 apart and the material is inserted from
either side according to convenience. In either case, the material is caused to
pass inwardly over the feed plate toward the path of the needle, then downwardly
through the feed opening between the two parts of the machine table, folding or
bending transversely to the direction of feed while in the path of the needle, and
then moving in a reverse direction outwardly from the path of the needle. The
material falls naturally into the lap of the operator, who sits close up to the machine
with his knees alongside of the U-shaped frame 50. By the operation of the
feed screw 59 feeding plate 58 may be adjusted inwardly toward the path of the
needle or backwardly therefrom to cause the needle to pass through more or less
of the thickness of the material. In sewing the three thicknesses as illustrated in
the drawings the needle always passes completely through the lining and wadding
and only partially through the thickness of the cloth.
The adjustment of arm 53 in socket 52 enables the vertical adjustment of the
feed plate to suit varying requirements. The adjustment of arm 28 on rock-
shaft 29 serves to regulate the position, operation and pressure upon the presser-
foot 22.
It will be observed that the result of blind stitching with my improved machine
is a single line of stitching on the lining side of the work, because the cloth is
bent or folded transversely to the line of feed, whereas with the ordinary blind
stitching attachments for sewing machines in which the cloth is bent longitudin-
ally of the line of feed, the result is two lines of stitching. In Figures 6 and 7 I
have shown sectional views of the stitching. a is the needle thread, and is the
shuttle thread. The needle thread a passes entirely through the lining and wadd-
ing and partially through the cloth or fur which are bent transversely over the end
of the feed plate, when the shuttle passes between the needle and needle thread
and the needle returns to initial position above the cloth, forming the ordinary
lock stitch. As soon as the needle has been withdrawn from the material the latter
is fed forward a step for a new stitch which is performed in the same way.
al are
the loops made by the needle thread around the shuttle thread b. A single exposed
portion a² of the needle thread will be visible on the lining between every two
points of penetration of the needle, and a single exposed portion of the shuttle
thread will appear between every two loops a¹. The lining will, therefore, show
a single line of stitching which, if examined closely will prove to consist of the
loops a¹ and the exposed portions a² of the needle thread, and the exposed portions

page_text: of the shuttle thread b. The successive needle punctures may coincide or they may
fall short of or overlap each other, this being dependent upon the feed which
determines the length of the stitches.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is:―
a
1: A sewing machine comprising stitch-forming mechanism, a cloth supporting
plate consisting of two parts separated in the path of the needle and forming
transverse opening extending from side to side of the machine, the supports for
said cloth plate and the other operative parts of the machine being disposed to
permit the free and unobstructed insertion of the work from either side of the
machine, and mechanism for feeding the work transversely to and into said open-
ing; substantially as set forth.
2: In a sewing machine, the combination of an approximately U-shaped frame,
with suitable stitch-forming mechanism, a cloth supporting plate formed in two
separate parts mounted respectively upon the arms of said U-shaped frame, and the
two parts of the plate being supported by said frame to form a free and unobstructed
cloth opening or slot between them in the path of the needle, which cloth opening
extends transversely to the direction of feed of the cloth and from side to side of
the machine to permit insertion of the cloth from either side, and suitable cloth
feeding mechanism, substantially as set forth.
3: In a sewing machine, the combination with suitable stitch-forming
mechanism, of a cloth supporting plate formed in two parts, an approximately
U-shaped supporting and connecting frame arranged at one side of the machine,
and having arms extending toward the plane of feed, the arms of said U-shaped
frame being connected respectively with the two parts of the cloth supporting plate
and supporting said parts in proper relation to form a free and unobstructed cloth
opening between them in the path of the needle extending transversely to the
direction of cloth feed from side to side of the machine, and suitable cloth feeding
mechanism; substantially as set forth.
4: In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, a
machine table, and a machine supporting frame, of an auxiliary approximately
U-shaped frame having one of its arms secured to the main supporting frame,
an auxiliary cloth plate supported upon the other arm of said U-shaped frame to
form a part of the machine table with a free and unobstructed transverse opening
between the cloth plate and machine table, and suitable means for feeding cloth
over said cloth plate into the cloth opening, as set forth.
5: In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, and
a machine supporting frame, of an auxiliary approximately U-shaped frame
arranged at one side of the machine and having arms extending toward the plane
of feed, one of which arms is secured to the machine supporting frame, an auxiliary
feed plate or cloth plate supported upon the other arm of said auxiliary frame
adjacent to and forming part of the machine table, the machine table and cloth
plate being separated to form a cloth opening between them in the path of the
needle, and suitable cloth feeding mechanism substantially as set forth.
6: In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, a
machine table, and a machine supporting frame, of an auxiliary U-shaped frame
supported upon the machine frame by one of its arms, a vertically adjustable arm
mounted upon the other arm of said U-shaped frame and carrying an auxiliary
cloth plate forming a part of the machine table, whereby said auxiliary cloth plate
may be adjusted vertically with relation to the machine table, and suitable cloth
feeding mechanism, as set forth.
7: In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, a
machine table, and a machine supporting frame, of an auxiliary approximately
U-shaped frame secured to the machine supporting frame, a vertically adjustable
arm mounted upon said auxiliary frame, an auxiliary cloth plate mounted upon

page_text: said vertically adjustable arm and supported thereby adjacent to the machine
table with a transverse unobstructed cloth opening extending between them from
side to side of the machine, means for adjusting the auxiliary plate toward and
away from the stitch-forming mechanism, and a suitable cloth feeding device,
as set forth.
8: In a sewing machine, the combination of stitch-forming mechanism, a
sewing machine table, an adjustable cloth plate projecting toward the edge of
the machine table and forming between them a cloth opening in the path of the
stitch-forming mechanism, extending from side to side transversely of the machine,
means for adjusting the cloth plate toward and away from the stitch-forming
mechanism, and suitable feeding mechanism constructed to feed cloth over the
adjustable plate around its end and down into the cloth opening; substantially
as set forth.
9: A sewing machine comprising stitch-forming mechanism, a cloth supporting
plate consisting of two parts separated in the path of the needle and forming a
transverse opening extending from side to side of the machine, a guide roll jour-
naled in one of said parts, and co-operating feed rolls for feeding cloth over and
under said part of the feed plate in which the guide roll is journaled, causing the
cloth to pass toward and away from the point of stitching, substantially as set forth.
10: A sewing machine comprising stitch-forming mechanism, a cloth support-
ing plate consisting of two parts separated in the path of the needle and forming a
transverse opening extending from side to side of the machine, a guide roll jour-
naled in the forward edge of one of said parts in advance of the plane of the needle
of the stitch forming mechanism, and means for feeding the cloth over and under
said guide roll and part of supporting plate in which it is journaled, toward and
away from the point of stitching, substantially as set forth.
11: In a sewing machine, the combination of stitch-forming mechanism, a
feed or cloth plate projecting toward the point of stitching, a rubber faced feed
roll journaled beneath the feed plate, a co-operating rubber faced feed roll journaled
in a movable spring pressed support, and means for intermittently operating said
feed rolls; substantially as and for the purposes set forth.
12: In a sewing machine, the combination of a stitch-forming mechanism, a
feed plate projecting toward the point of stitching, a feed roll journaled beneath
the feed plate, a movable head or support mounted below said feed roll, a co-operat-
ing feed roll journaled in said movable head springs for holding said head in
elevated position, an operating lever engaging said head for depressing it and
throwing the feed rolls apart, and means for operating the feed rolls, substantially
as and for the purposes set forth.
13: In a sewing machine, the combination of stitch-forming mechanism, a
feed plate projecting toward the point of stitching, a suitable vertically movable
spring pressed head or support mounted below the feed plate, a feed roll journaled
in said head or support, a co-operating feed roll journaled in stationary bearings,
a presser-foot, means for elevating and lowering the presser-foot, means for inter-
mittently operating the feed rolls when the presser-foot is elevated, and means for
depressing the movable head or support to throw the feed rolls apart; substan-
tially as set forth.
14: In a sewing machine, the combination of stitch-forming mechanism, a feed
plate projecting toward the point of stitching, a feed roll journaled beneath the
feed plate, a vertically movable head carrying a second feed-roll, springs moving
said head upwardly, a lever engaging said head, and a foot-lever or treadle con-
nected with said lever, means for operating the feed rolls, substantially as set forth.
15: In a sewing machine, the combination of stitch-forming mechanism, a
pair of feed rolls adapted to engage and feed a piece of cloth between them, a
ratchet-wheel carried by one of the feed rolls, an oscillatory arm carrying a pawl
engaging said ratchet-wheel, a cam, a lever connected with said oscillatory arm
and engaging and operated by said cam, an arm projecting from said lever, and

page_text: an adjustable notched plate adapted to engage said arm for regulating the stroke
of the pawl; substantially as set forth.
16: In a sewing machine, the combination of stitch-forming mechanism, a feed
plate projecting toward the point of stitching, a spring actuated roller beneath the
feed plate, a tape wound upon said roller and provided with cloth engaging means,
said tape being adapted to be passed around the end of the feed plate and attached
to the cloth and feed it over and around the end of the plate, substantially as and
for the purposes set forth.
Dated this 21st day of October 1897
HARRIS & MILLS,
23, Southampton Buildings, London, W.C., Agents.