Shoes or for similar Purposes.
Year: 1886

page_text: Shoes or for similar Purposes.
I, HENRY HARRIS LAKE of the firm of Haseltine Lake & C° Patent Agents,
Southampton Buildings, in the County of Middlesex do hereby declare the nature
of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This invention relates to machines for sewing on buttons, and it consists in the
several improvements which I will now proceed to describe in connection with
the general construction and operation of said machines.
In the accompanying drawings,
Figures 1 and 2 represent elevations of the machine from opposite sides.
Figure 2 represents a section of the upper portion of the needle and cast
off bars.
Figure 3 represents an end elevation..
"
Figures 4. 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 and 12 represent perspective views illustrating
different stages of the operation.
Figure 13 represents a side elevation and partial section of a portion of the
machine shewing the devices for operating the needle bar.
Figure 14 represents an elevation of the thread clamping device.
Figure 15 represents a section on line x, x Figure 14.
Figure 16 represents a side elevation and partial section of a part of the machine
showing the devices for operating the carrier of the needle and cast-off bars.
Figure 17 represents a rear elevation of a portion of the carrier operating
mechanism.
Figure 18 represents a vertical section through the work supporting arm showing
the mechanism for operating the looper or thread carrier.
Figure 19 represents a top view of the thread carrier and its operating
mechanism.
Figure 20 represents a side elevation and partial sections of a portion of the
machine.

page_text: Figures 21, 22, 23, 24 and 25 represent different views of the loop spreading
devices.
Figure 26 represents a side elevation of the gum cup in the work supporting arm.
Figure 27 represents a section on line y y, Figure 26.
Figure 28 represents a top view of the gum cup.
Figure 31 represents a rear side elevation of a machine provided with my
improvements.
Figure 32 represents an inclined end elevation.
Figure 32 represents a section on line z z, Figure 32.
Figure 33 represents a side elevation of a part of the machine a part of the
reservoir and raceway being removed.
Figure 34 represents a section on line xx Figure 38.
Figure 35 represents a part of the reservoir and
Figure 36 represents a side elevation of the lower portion of the raceway.
Figure 37 represents a section on line y y Figure 36.
Figure 38 represents a side elevation of a portion of the machine showing the
devices for oscillating the raceway.
Figure 39 represents a section on line ¹¹ Figure 38.
The same letters of reference indicate the same parts in all the Figures.
In the drawings a represents a suitable supporting frame having a narrow
elongated work supporting arm B, preferably horizontal and of such size as to
enable the upper of a boot or shoe to be drawn upon it, and allow said upper a
free movement laterally of the arm. Said arm B is hollow and contains a gum
cup, a vibratory thread carrier C, and suitable tension devices; all hereinafter
described. Above the thread carrier is a needle plate D, forming a part of the
upper surface of the arm B, and provided with a slot, extending longitudinally of
the arm to permit the needle to pass down through the needle plate, and move
longitudinally of the arm to feed the material while depressed.
E represents the neck or arm supporting the needle, presser, and cast-off bars, and
located over the work supporting arm B.
The needle bar F and cast-off bar G are directly supported in a carrier H, which
is adapted to reciprocate horizontally in guides or ways I I, (see Figure 16) in the
neck E. The carrier H is provided with a substantially horizontal arm M, to the
outer end of which is pivotted a lever W. Said lever is mounted to oscillate on a
rod A, affixed to the supporting frame a, and has an arm B projecting from its
lower end (see Figures 16 and 17). Two arms C, D', connected by a hub E',
common to both are adapted to oscillate in the rod A', which passes through said
hub. The arm C projects upwardly and has a roller F, while the arm D* projects
over the arm B*, of the lever W, said arm B being pressed by a spring C against
an adjustable screw H* in the arm D. The lever W has a roller I located nearly
beside the roller F'; said rollers are acted on respectively by two cams, J* K*, on
the driving shaft R, said cams acting alternately as hereinafter described. The
spring Gʻ, which is coiled upon the rod A, and attached at one end to a collar on
said rod (see Figure 17) by its upward pressure on the arm B presses the lever W
toward the cams J K, and thus moves the carrier H in a direction opposite to
that in which it is moved by said cams. The cam Jis formed to permit the
carrier H to be moved forward by the spring G during a small proportion of a
complete rotation of said cam, said forward movement taking place after the needle
has drawn up a loop through the eye of a button in the raceway, and enabling the
needle in its next descent to pass outside of the eye of the button through the loop
last drawn up, and. draw a second loop through it, as hereinafter described. The
cam K' is formed to force back the lever W and move the carrier. backwardly while
the needle is in the work preparatory to drawing up the second loop, thus causing
the needle to feed the work, as hereinafter described.
The screw H' in the arm D' determines the position of the arm c* and enables
said arm to be adjusted with reference to the lever W and cam J. The position
of the arm C* determines the length of reciprocating movement imparted to the

page_text: carrier H, an adjustment of the arm in the direction of the arrow marked upon it
in Figure 16 permitting the lever W to stand nearer the cam K' and receive a
greater movement therefrom, thus increasing the length of the feed movement
imparted to the needle as hereinafter described.
An adjustment of the arm C in the opposite direction shortens said feed
movement. These adjustments change the position at which the needle enters
the work and necessitate a corresponding adjustability of the button raceway
hereinafter described.
The needle bar F is provided with a stud or pin O, shown in dotted lines,
Figures 2 and 13, which projects through a vertical slot 0%, in the carrier H, and
enters an orifice in a slide N Figure 2, which is fitted in a slot L, in an oscillating
lever J. Said lever is pivotted at K to the neck E, and is oscillated vertically by
means of a cam groove in a disc K' on the driving shaft R, and a connecting
rod S, having a stud or roller entering said cam-groove and a slot, through
which the driving shaft R passes (see Figure 13). The needle bar F is thus
reciprocated vertically, the slot L in the lever J enabling said bar to be reciprocated
vertically while at any point to which it is moved laterally.
The cast off bar G is provided with two projections h, h, between which is a
stud i, attached to the needle bar, said stud having a considerable independent
movement between the projections h h so that as the needle bar rises and falls the
stud moves the cast off bar to a limited extent in the saine directions, the
movements thus imparted causing the cast off, to be operated in the usual manner
in casting off the primary loop as 'hereinafter described.
The needle bar has a longitudinal cavity P, in its upper portion as shown in
Figure 2 and in dotted lines in Figure 2, in which is adapted to slide a rod or
finger 2, the upper end of which is bent over and bears on the cast off bar G.
A spring 3 interposed between a collar T, on the lower end of the rod 2, and a
cap O, screwed onto the upper end of the needle bar F exerts a downward pressure
on the cast off bar G. The cast off bar has a projecting stud 17, at the inner side
which bears during a part of the operation upon a horizontal shoulder 1-7, on the
arın E, said shoulder prevents the cast off from moving downwardly far enough to
strike the work until the needle is making its backward work feeding movement
as hereinafter described.
The stud 17 of the cast off bar passing off from said shoulder during said feed
movement, so that the cast off is depressed by the spring finger 2 and bears on the
work while the secondary loop is being pulled up as hereinafter described. The
devices for imparting this independent movement of the cast off bar constitute one
of my improvements. The pressure bar jis provided with an elongated presser
foot k, composed of two arms 21 3¹ connected by a block or enlargement u³, to
which the presser bar is attached by means of a screw 41. The arms 21 31 are
separated by a slot l, extending longitudinally of the work supporting arm B.
The sides of slot are formed to support the head of a shoe button of the kind
shown, in an upright position with its eye or shank projecting downwardly into
said slot so that when the secondary loop is pulled in as hereinafter described it
will necessarily enclose the shank of the button.
The presser bar jis alternately pressed downward and raised intermittently to
permit the work to be fed by the feed movements of the needle by means of a
lever A', pivotted at B7, to the neck E, a cam groove C7 in a disc on the driving
shaft R, said groove receiving a roller on the lever A7 and giving said lever an
oscillating motion, a flexible arm or spring D7, constituting an extension of the
lever A and bearing on the upper side of a stud E7 on the presser bar, a lever F7
pivotted at B7 and bearing at one end against the underside of the stud E7, and a
screw G7 in a lug on the lever A' bearing on the lever F. When the end of the
lever A having the screw G7 is depressed the screw depresses the corresponding
end of the lever F7, and causes its other end to lift the presser bar by the stud E.
When the described motion of the lever A' is reversed its spring continuation D'
forces the presser foot downwardly upon the work with a yielding pressure, and

page_text: allows the foot to accomodate itself to the thickness of the work, the flexibility
of the spring or lever extensions D' preventing any material increase of friction
between the cam groove G' and lever A7, when the presser foot is holding the
work, and enabling various thicknesses of work to be held, there being no material
increase in the friction of said parts when the presser foot is holding work of
greater than the average thickness.
The lever F is not positively attached to the lever A7, the screw G7 resting
loosely on the lever F', consequently the latter can be operated independently to
raise the presser foot by depressing its rear end whenever the operator desires.
To this end a rod u³, is connected to the rear end of the lever F7, said rod being
connected with a suitable treadle (not shown), so that the operator can use his foot
in raising the presser foot to insert and remove the work. By adjusting the
screw G up or down the extent of upward movement given to the presser foot by
the action of the lever A' on the lever F' may be diminished or increased.
c represents an arm rigidly affixed to an arbor 6¹ which is journalled in the
arms 21, 3' of the presser foot k. The arm c¹ which is located between said
arms 21, 3¹ is provided with a longitudinal slot or aperture d¹ extending nearly to
the lower or swinging end, leaving a thin plate e' below the slot.
The portions of the arm c¹ constituting the sides of said slot d' are cut away
atc, above the plate e¹, the latter being thus converted into a hook.
The plate or hook e¹ is triangular and presents a point or angle fl, at the front
of the arm c¹ (as shown in Figures 22 and 25) its edges diverging from said point f'.
To the sides of the arm c¹ are pivotted plates or arms d³ d³, the lower ends of
which are bent under the lower end of the arm c¹, so that they nearly meet under
the rear side of said arm c¹ as shown in Figure 25, said bent ends being notched or
recessed at their rear sides to form diverging edges g¹, which extend across the
diverging edges of the plate or hook e¹. The arms d' are provided with springs h¹ h¹,
which normally hold them in the position shown in Figures 10 and 11, but permit
them to yield as shown in Figure 12.
At the back of the arm c¹ is a thin plate which projects slightly below the
hook e¹ for a purpose hereinafter described.
The arbor 6 is provided with an arm i¹ which is pivotted to a rod c¹ the latter
extending backwardly to a lever p¹, which is oscillated by a cam on the driving
shaft, and it oscillates the loop spreading arm with its attachments.
a represents the button reservoir and b the raceway rigidly attached thereto.
The reservoir is composed of a body 2, and a back plate 3, separated by a slot or
space 4, around the margin of the reservoir. The raceway has an arm b¹, which is
pivotted at c (Figure 2) to ears d d, on a stud e, which is journalled in an arm f,
rigidly attached to the neck or arm E of the machine, the pivot c and stud e being
at right angles with each other so that the raceway is capable of oscillating toward
and from and parallel with the arm E, the described connection of the raceway to
the arm constituting a double joint.
The raceway extends downwardly from the reservoir, and is composed of two
parallel side pieces 21, 31 separated by a slot 4' adapted to receive the heads of the
buttons. The side piece 21 is provided with a slot or groove 5, adapted to receive
the eyes of the buttons, said groove being cut through the piece 21 at the lower
end of the raceway to permit the eyes of the buttons to project from the raceway,
and curved so as to cause the eye of each button to stand horizontally when it
reaches the lower end of the raceway, the eye being thus adapted to receive the
descending needle as hereinafter described.
To the side 2¹ of the raceway is pivotted at 6, a gate 7, which is forced by a
spring 8, against a rigid part of the raceway and thus caused to stand across and
partially obstruct the lower end of the slot 41, and thus prevent the buttons from
passing out from the slot unless drawn out by a force sufficient to displace the gate
as hereinafter described. The gate 7 is a solid or inelastic block of metal which
swings in a plane at right angles to the line in which the buttons move in passing
'out from the raceway, consequently it is not liable to be displaced by the ordinary

page_text: pressure of the buttons against it caused by the jar or vibrations of the machine, a
greater force being required to displace it than could originate within the reservoir
and raceway, or be caused by the jar of the machine.
The gate has a cavity or socket 7', (Figure 37) in that end that constitutes the
button stop. Said cavity is formed to fit accurately against the side of the button
heads and ensures the stoppage of the lower button at the precise point required to
cause the eye thereof to receive the descending needle. It is obviously a matter of
much importance that the lower button be accurately located with reference to the
needle. The gate has a screw y, which projects through its inner side and con-
stitutes an adjustable stop bearing against the piece 21 of the raceway and limiting
the extent to which the gate i is moved by its spring toward the part 21 and thus
determining the initial position of the cavity 71 and enabling it to be adjusted to
the thickness of the heads of the buttons. There is sometimes a slight difference
between the sizes of the heads of different lots of buttons and as the gate 7 should
stand so that the wall of the cavity 7¹ in its normal position will receive the head
of the lower button and hold it well forward so that the eye will project properly
from the slot 5, the importance of the means of adjusting the initial position of
the gate 7 will be obvious.
The back plates 3 and 3¹ of the button reservoir and raceway are formed in a:
single piece, which is secured to the bodies 2 and 2¹ (which are also in a single
piece) by screws S S, passing through the plates 3 31 into tapped orifices in the
parts 2 and 21. Screws S¹ S¹, working in tapped orifices in the plates 3 3¹ and
bearing at their inner ends against the parts 2 2¹ without entering said parts
co-operate with the screws S S in holding the parts 3 31 at any desired distance
from the parts 2 2 so that the width of the slots 4 4' may be varied to correspond
to variations in the sizes of different lots of heads.
The raceway and reservoir are oscillated on the stud by means of a lever 8,
pivotted at 10, to the frame of the machine, a cam groove 11, in a disc on the
driving shaft R receiving a roller on said lever, and a connecting rod g, connecting.
a lever 8 with ear 15 attached to the raceway. The rotation of said cam causes
the lever 8 to oscillate, and communicates a like oscillating movement to the
raceway through the rod g.
The movements thus imparted to the raceway would be parallel with the length of
the arm E, but for a two armed lever L, Figures 38 and 39, pivotted to the under
side of the neck or arm E, of the machine and adapted to oscillate horizontally.
The arm 12 of said lever is struck by a pin 14 on the connecting rod g, when
said rod and the raceway are moving in the direction indicated by the arrow in
Figure 3. The lever L is thus turned on its pivot so that its other arm 13, presses
outwardly on the ear 15 to which the connecting rod g is pivotted, and thus
causes the raceway to swing outwardly from the presser foot while it is moving
backwardly.
A spring 16 connecting an arm on the raceway with the neck or arm E, normally
draws the raceway inwardly toward said arm, so that when the raceway is swung
forward the spring draws it inwardly to its proper position beside the needle.
The connecting rod g is pivotted at 17, and 18, so that it conforms to the
movements of the raceway caused by the two armed lever L, and spring 15.
The ear 15 to which the connecting rod g is pivotted is adjustably secured to the
raceway b, by means of a bolt a', and an arm attached rigidly to said raceway and
having a slot 64, receiving said bolt. Said slot enables the ear 15 to be secured at
various distances from the raceway, and thus enables the initial position of the
raceway or that which it occupies when presenting the eye of the button to the
descending needle, to be adjusted as circumstances may require.
The space between the attached buttons on the work is determined by the
position of the needle when it enters the work preparatory to feeding it, and the.
needle is capable of adjustment so as to enter the work at a greater or less distance
from the outer end of the work supporting arm. The adjustable connection
between the raceway and the connecting rod g enables the raceway to be adjusted.

page_text: to correspond with any adjustment of the needle bar. Other devices may be
employed for adjusting the initial position of the raceway. For example, the
connecting rod g may be made capable of being lengthened or shortened.
The thread used in securing the buttons passes through an aperture in a hollow
stud p³, affixed to the frame of the machine, Figures 2, 14 and 15. In said stud p³
is a thread clamping device composed of a rod o, which is raised intermittently by
means of a cam g¹, on the driving shaft R, and when raised binds the thread
between its upper end and the lower end of a stud 92, which is pressed downwardly
by a spring q, backed by an adjustable screw 96, inserted in the top of the stud p³.
A spring u presses the rod q downwardly so that the roller v, journalled in its
lower end, bears at all times on the periphery of the cam g', which is formed to
raise the rod q twice during each complete rotation of the shaft R, the thread being
held each time that the rod q is raised and while the loops that secure each button
are being tightened as hereinafter described. The spring q³ enables the stud q³ to
yield slightly so that the thread is not rigidly held but will yield to a breaking
strain imposed upon it.
The thread holding devices constitute another part of my improvements.
A¹ represents a cup or box pivotted to the arm B, by means of a bolt B¹ and
adapted to contain a gum solution for the thread. The gum box A¹ when in its
normal position is within the arm B, its pivotal connection with said arm enabling
it to be swung laterally out of the arm when it is necessary to replenish it or pass
the thread through it. The thread passes into the gum cup A¹ through a hole at D¹
in the arm B and passes through an eye E, attached to the bottom of the gum.
cup A¹ and from thence through a groove F¹ and a hole G8, in an arm G₁ rigidly
attached to the outer end of the gum cup A¹. The gum cup is provided near the
hole G with two pads or discs, G6 G8, of rubber or other yielding material between
which the thread passes. Said pads are compressed by a plate 11, which is pressed
downwardly upon them by a screw 13. The pressure of the pads against the thread
passing between them prevents the gum from leaking around the thread.
The gum cup A¹ arranged in the arm B, and pivotted thereto is another of my
improvements. Its location in the arm B and therefore close to the needle prevents
the gum from drying on the thread between the gum cup A' and the needle, while
the pivotal connection of the cup A¹ and arm B enables the cup to be rigidly
exposed and covered. From the arm C¹ of the gum cup A' the thread passes first
through a tension spring K¹ attached to the gum cup, then through the eye of the
oscillating thread carrier C, which is operated by mechanism presently described,
and then through the slot in the needle plate D, to the needle.
The thread carrier C, Figures 18 and 19, is an arm attached to a vertical stud‘A³,
which is journalled in the arm B and has an arm B° to which is jointed one end of
a connecting rod G. Said rod is joined at its opposite end to one arm of a bell-
The other arm of said
crank lever D8, which is pivotted at E, to the frame a.
lever has a roller F, which enters a cam groove HP, in the periphery of a disc Iº, on
the driving shaft R. The cam groove H oscillates the lever D which through the
rod G oscillates the stud A9 and the thread carrier C. The tension spring K¹
exerts a constant downward pressure on the thread between the gum cup and the
thread carrier C, and prevents the thread from being slackened between the thread
carrier and the work by the movements of the thread carrier.
L' represents a spring secured to the upper surface of the needle plate D, slightly
in the rear of the presser foot. Said spring L¹ holds the end of the thread before
the formation of the first stitch, the thread being conducted through the needle
plate D, and held by the spring while the needle is drawing up the first loop, the
feeding of the work removing the thread from under the spring L¹, so that
thereafter the spring L' accomplishes nothing until the next piece of work is
commenced.
The operation as a whole is as follows:-
The button raceway being in the position shown in Figures 2 and 4, the needle
1
the
my and nasees through.

page_text: the material into the needle plate D, and at the same time the thread carrier C
swings around as shown in figure 5, to press the thread against the hook side of the
needle. The needle is then raised and draws a primary loop C³, through the eye of
the button, as shown in figure 6, and is then moved slightly forward by the
co-operation of the spring G and cam J toward the outer end of the work
supporting arm B as shown in Figure 7, and then passes down through the first
loop C, outside the eye of the button. The raceway g³ is then moved backwardly,
and the loop G' is thus caused to pull the last button out of the raceway as is
shown in figure 8.
During the above described operations the cast off is prevented from descending
so as to bear upon the work by the shoulder J, but now the needle while in the
work is moved backwardly with the cast off bar, thus feeding the work, and at the
same time causing the stud 1,7, of the cast off bar to move off from the shoulder J'
whereupon the spring finger 2 forces the cast off down into the primary loop, as
shown in figure 8, the cast off moving down until it bears upon the work. After
the feed movement, the needle rises and draws up a secondary loop D³ through the
loop G2 as shown in figure 10, the cast off remaining depressed and in the loop G'
until the barb of the needle rises above the latter so as to prevent the needle from
catching the loop G. When the stud i of the rising needle bar strikes the upper
stud h of the cast off bar it raises the latter until its stud 1-7, is engaged by a
spring dog or catch L' figure 3, supported on the neck or arm of the machine. Said
dog supports the cast off at a point above the barb of the raised needle while the
needle bar moves downwardly enough to disengage said barb from the secondary
loop, and while the loop spreading device is taking said loop as hereinafter described.
When the needle and cast off bars move forward to their starting position the
stud 1-7 of the cast off bar leaves the dog L7 and is depressed by the spring
finger 2, until it is arrested by the shoulder J7, said shoulder preventing the cast off
from falling lower than is necessary to enable it to bear upon and steady the eye
of the lower button in the raceway while the needle is passing through said eye, as
shown in Figure 5. The operation of drawing the secondary loop D entirely up
tightens the primary loop C². Just before the needle releases the secondary loop
the arm c¹ swings toward the needle until the latter enters the slot din said arm,
as shown in figure 11, the hook or triangular plate e¹ of the arm c¹ being thus
caused to enter the loop D³ before said loop is released from the hook of the needle.
The arm c' then swings backwardly from the needle thus causing the hooked
ends g1 g of the arms d² to enter the loop D³ and move it over the head of the
button, as shown in Figure 12, the arms d yielding or swinging to the front of the
arm c², so that the loop D³ is cleared from the hook el. At the same time the cams q¹,
raises the thread clamping device q which holds the thread tightly while the thread
carrier C swings around to the position shown in figure 5 and thus draws in the
loop D³ pulling it from the yielding arms d'. This completes the attachment of the
button, the drawing in of the secondary loop D³ interlocking it with the primary
loop and forming the square knot which secures the button, while the loop D
is being carried over the button the needle and the button raceway return to their
original positions. The needle then descends through the eye of the next button,
engages the thread which is again presented to it by the thread carrier C, and the
operation is continued.
The cam q is formed to raise the clamping device q while the needle is drawing
up the primary loop G³ through the eye of the button, thus holding the thread so
that the tension spring K¹, on the gum cup is prevented from taking up more
tbread than is required for the primary loop G* the formation of a loose or slack
primary loop is prevented.
'
The plate on the arm c¹ serves to bend or form the loop D³. When the arm c¹
is in the position shown in Figure 11, preventing either side of the loop from
curving inwardly when the arm c¹ moves backwardly. It will be seen that the
loop spreading devices are much more simple and less liable to derangement than
those shown in my former patent.

page_text: Behind the portions of the presser foot k on which the button rests the loop is
being thrown over the button, are formed slight elevations 12, see Figure 8, which
constitute obstructions whereby the button is prevented from being pushed back-
wardly by the pressure of the loop against the front portion of the head.
The arm constituting the thread carrier G extends horizontally from the stud A*
to a point near its outer end and is there bent upwardly as shewn in Figures 2, 5
and 18 the upwardly bent portion having an eye 2. 7 through the thread passes.
Said eye is therefore raised above the main body of the arm C, so that the arm can
oscillate freely under the needle without striking the latter when it is depressed.
The cam groove in the disc K³ which operates the needle bar lever j is rotated
in the direction indicated by the arrow in Figure 13. The part 20 of said groove
through the intermediate mechanism, gives the needle its downward movement
while it is passing through the eye of the last button in the raceway; the part 21
retains the needle at rest when depressed while the thread carrier is pressing the
thread against it; the part 22 raises the needle and causes it to draw up the primary
loop; the part 23 depresses the needle and causes it to pass through the primary
loop outside of the eye of the button; the part 24 retains the needle in a depressed
position while it is being moved to feed the work; the part 25 raises the needle
and causes it to draw up the secondary loop, and the part 26 gives the needle the
slight downward movement which disengages it from the secondary loop while the
loop spreader is taking said loop. The described means for slightly depressing
the needle to disengage the secondary loop constitutes another of my improvements.
It will be observed that the location of the reservoir at the outer end of the
arın E, enables a much shorter and lighter raceway to be employed than heretofore,
the descent of the raceway being very abrupt, in fact almost vertical, so that the
buttons move more positively downward than in a raceway having a more gentle
inclination. The described connection of the raceway to the arin E by means of
the pivots constituting a double joint enables the raceway to oscillate freely in any
desired direction.
The button agitator in the reservoir is composed of a hub r mounted on a stud o,
and tufts of bristles radiating from the hub. The agitator is oscillated by a
connection with the oscillating lever J which operates the needle bar, said connection
being composed of a needle bar u, secured to the stud o of the agitator, and a
connecting rod v pivotted to the outer end of said arm and to the lever J, as shewn
in Figures 31, 33, 34 and 35.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, as communicated
to me by my foreign correspondent, I declare that what I claim is:-
First. The combination of the needle bar, the cast off bar, means for moving said
bar laterally, means substantially as described whereby the cast off bar is positively
moved by and with the needle bar during parts of the vertical movement of the
latter, the spring finger on the needle bar bearing on the cast off bar, the shoulder
whereby the cast off is supported above the work during a part of the operation
and afterwards allowed to be depressed by the spring finger and the spring catch,
whereby the cast off bar is briefly supported in a raised position, as set forth.
Second. The combination of the presser foot, the loop throwing device composed
of the slotted arm c¹ journalled in the presser foot and provided with the hook e¹
the spring pressed hooked arms d' d' pivotted to the arm c¹ and means substantially
as described for oscillating said loop throwing device as set forth.
Third. In a button sewing machine the combination of a work supporting arm loop
or stitch forming mechanism substantially as described, located at one end of said arm,
button supplying mechanism substantially as described and a gum cup located in said
arm in close proximity to the loop or stitch forming mechanism, whereby the gum
is prevented from drying on the thread between the cup and the needle, as set forth.
Fourth. In a button sewing machine the combination of the loop forming devices
including the oscillating loop spreading devices, and the oscillating thread guide, or

page_text: take-up whereby the second loop is tightened after it has been thrown over the
button head by the loop spreader, and the intermittently operating thread clamp
whereby the thread is grasped and held while the thread guide acting as a take
up is drawing in said loop as set forth.
Fifth. In a button sewing machine, the combination with the button supplying
mechanism, the loop or stitch forming mechanism, including the loop spreading
devices, of the presser foot, having the button arresting elevations whereby each
button is supported while a loop is being thrown over its head, as set forth.
Sixth. The combination with the needle and cast off bars, and means substantially
as described for reciprocating them vertically, the carrier H supporting said bars,
and provided with the arm V, the pivotted lever W connected to said arm V and
provided with the arm B, the connected arm C D adapted to oscillate indepen-
dently of the lever W. Said arm D' having an adjustable screw bearing against
the arm B* of the lever W, the cams J K and the spring G whereby the lever W
and arm C are pressed toward said cams, as set forth.
Seventh. The combination of the needle bar, its carrier, means substantially as
described for varying the throw of the carrier to regulate the initial positions of the
needle and the length of its feed movement, the oscillatory button raceway, and
means substantially as described whereby the initial position of the raceway may
be varied to correspond with the adjustment of the needle, as set forth.
Eighth. The combination with the presser foot of the loop spreading arm having .
the shaped or triangular plate or hook e¹ and the needle receiving slot d¹ and
mechanism for oscillating said arm, as set forth.
Ninth. The combination with the loop throwing or spreading arm having the
hook and mechanism for oscillating the same, of the plate i¹ at the rear side of
said arm, as and for the purpose specified.
Tenth. In a button sewing machine the combination of the button supplying
mechanism, the needle, the cast off, and their operating mechanism, the loop
spreading devices and their supporting and operating mechanism, the work sup-
porting arm, the oscillating thread carrier located in said arm and the tension
spring also located in said arm below the work, and serving to keep the thread
taut between the thread carrier and the work, as set forth.
Eleventh. The combination with the presser foot of the loop spreading arm
pivotted to the presser foot and having the V shaped triangular hook el rigidly
attached to its swinging end, said hook being formed to enter and spread a loop as
described and mechanism for oscillating said arm.
Twelfth. The combination of the presser foot the loop spreading arm having a
loop engaging hook rigidly attached to its swinging end, means for oscillating said
arm, and the spring pressed fingers d d pivotted to said arm and provided with
backwardly projecting hooks, as set forth.
Thirteenth. The combination with the presser foot and its bar, of the lever A'
having a flexible extension or spring bearing on a projection on the presser bar,
and forcing the latter downwardly with a yielding pressure, and means for
operating said lever, as set forth.
Fourteenth. The combination with the presser foot and its bar of the lever F"
adapted to bear against a projection on the presser bar and the lever a³ having a
flexible extension or spring bearing against the said projection on the presser bar,
and a projection as G', arranged to act on the lever F as set forth.
Fifteenth. The combination with the presser foot and its bar having the
projection E7, of the lever F, adapted to bear against the lower side of said projec-
tion, and the lever A7 having the spring D7 bearing on the upper side of said
projection, and the adjustable stud or screw G7 whereby the lever F7 is operated to.
lift the presser foot a distance governed by the adjustment of said screw, as set
forth.
Sixteenth. In a button fastening machine the combination of a work support,
button fastening mechanism substantially as described, a fixed arm above the work
support, a button reservoir and raceway, a joint or pivotal connection between said
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page_text: fixed arm and the reservoir and raceway over the fastening mechanism, substan-
tially as described, whereby said reservoir and raceway are oscillated, as set forth.
Seventeenth. In a button fastening machine the combination of a work support,
button fastening mechanism substantially as described, a fixed arm above the work
support, a button reservoir and raceway connected to said arm by a double joint
comprising two pivots at right angles to each other, the reservoir and raceway
being adapted to oscillate in either or both pivots, and mechanism substantially
as described whereby said reservoir and raceway are oscillated, as set forth.
Eighteenth. The combination of the reservoir and raceway connected to a fixed
support by a double joint, the jointed connecting rod secured to said raceway, means
substantially as described for reciprocating said rod and thus oscillating the raceway,
and the two armed lever pivotted to a fixed support, one arm of said lever bearing
against a projection on the connecting rod and the other on an attachment on the
raceway, as set forth.
Nineteenth. The reservoir a provided with a slot formed to receive the heads of
buttons, and the raceway having a slot 41 communicating with the slot of the
reservoir, and a groove in one side of the raceway formed to receive the eyes of the
buttons, as set forth.
Twentieth. The reservoir and raceway composed of the body 2 and side piece 2¹
formed in one piece, said side piece having a buttou-eye-guiding-slot 5, and the back-
plate 3, and side piece 3' formed in one piece and separated from the body 2 and
side piece 21 by a continuous slot or opening 4, 41 as set forth.
Twenty-first. The raceway having the button-head and eye-guiding-slots com-
bined with the rigid or inelastic gate 7, pivotted to the raceway and provided with
a spring 8, whereby it is pressed against a rigid part of the raceway and caused to
stand normally across the lower end of the button-head guiding slot, and with a
socket 7 formed to fit a button head, the arrangement being such that the heads
of the button pass into the socket 7¹ and are positively held thereby in position to
receive the needle, as set forth.
Twenty-second. The combination of the reservoir mounted to oscillate as described,
and provided with the slotted arm, the connecting rod adjustably secured to said
slotted arm, and means substantially as described for operating said connecting rod,
as set forth.
Twenty-third. The combination of the raceway having the button-head and eye-
guiding-slots, the rigid or inelastic gate, pivotted to the raceway and provided with
the socket 7 and with the spring 8 which normally holds the gate with its sockets
in position to receive the button-heads as they pass down said slot and the adjust-
able screw or rigid stop y which limits the closing movement of the gate and
thereby enables the socket to receive buttons of different sizes without interference
with the opening movement of the gate as set forth.
4
Twenty-fourth. The combination of the reservoir and raceway mounted to
oscillate as described, a connecting rod pivotally secured to said raceway, mechanism
whereby said rod is reciprocated and the raceway thereby oscillated, and means
substantially as described whereby the distance between the raceway and the end
of the connecting rod that is connected to the operating mechanism of said rod may
be varied as set forth.