IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BUCKLES AND OTHER DRESS FASTENERS
Year: 1856

page_text: LETTERS PATENT.to Henry Jenkins, of Birmingham, in the County of
Warwick, Die Sinker, Stamper, and Piercer, for the Invention of
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BUCKLES AND OTHER DRESS
FASTENERS."
Sealed the 5th December 1856, and dated the 29th September 1856.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION filed by the said Henry Jenkins at the Office
of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition and Declaration, onl
the 29th September 1856, pursuant to the 9th Section of the Patent
Law Amendment Act, 1852.
I, HENRY JENKINS, of Birmingham, in the County of Warwick, Die Sinker,
Stamper, and Piercer, do hereby declare the nature of my said Invention
for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BUCKLES AND OTHER DRESS
FASTENERS," and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be par.
ticularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement, refer-
ence being had to the several Drawings hereunto annexed, and the letters
and figures thereon (that is to say) :-
My said Invention consists of improvements in buckles and clasps suitable
for dress fasteners (which may be comprised under either or both of those
names), and in the method of constructing the joints of buckles and clasps
intended for use on hat-bands, girdles, braces, straps, and other similar articles
of dress, and in the combination of the parts of such buckles and clasps, by
which the fastening or pinch upon the article of dress is obtained. I there-
fore proceed to explain the method in which I perform the operations of
manufacture necessary to carry the Invention into effect, by the following

page_text: statement, and reference to the said Drawings, premising that in performing
such operations I use the ordinary screw press and dies, or bed and punch,
or, as they are commonly called," cutting-out tools " and " piercing tools," the
nature and use of which are well known and understood by any competent
workman of ordinary understanding conversant with the trade of a stamper
and piercer.
In the three Sheets of Drawings I have grouped together under capital
letters, from A to K respectively, Diagrams of the various forms which the
metal plate of which the articles are to be formed is made to assume in
the progressive stages of manufacture of each buckle or clasp from the blank
to the complete article. The order in which the Diagrams are numbered
indicates the progressive stages in which they are to be produced.
The group A, Sheet 1, represents the several stages of manufacture requi-
site to produce, according to my said Invention, a buckle suitable for a hat-
band. Figure 1 shows the form of the blank, which may be cut out of a
strip of metal sheet of suitable width and thickness by means of a screw press
and cutting tools. The metal may be iron, steel, copper, brass, german silver,
silver or gold, or the alloys of either of the said metals which are capable of
alloy, according to the desire of the manufacturer, and the quality of the
article intended to be produced. By another pair of tools of suitable form,
called piercing tools, fixed in a similar press, the blank is to be pierced out
or perforated in the form shewn at Figure 2, the middle bar of the buckle
being curved, as there shewn, in order that by the next operation the points
of the chapes or prongs, which are attached to the outer bar of the blank,
may be separated and extended over the bar from which they have been
severed. By another pair of suitable tools the points of the chapes or
prongs are separated from the outer bar of the blank, and the middle bar is
straightened, and forced towards that bar, by means whereof the prongs are
made to overlap slightly the edge of the outer bar of the blank, as shown at
Figure 3. I afterwards bend the buckle slightly by hand or press and dies
of suitable form, whereby the chapes are thrown forward, leaving between
them and the outer bar sufficient space to admit of the hat-band being passed
through, and the buckle is complete, the same having, according to my said
Invention, being formed entirely out of one piece of metal.
The group B, Sheet 1, represents the different stages of manufacture of a
similar buckle suitable for hat-bands and other purposes, but differently con-
structed, being made from two pieces of metal instead of one piece. Figure 1
represents the blank cut out of a strip of metal by a screw press and pair of
cutting tools of suitable form, having lugs or ears at the ends thereof; the

page_text: blank is then pierced by similar means, as shewn at Figure 2; the lugs or
ears are then turned up at right angles with the blank, and two indentations
to receive the ends of the chape are sunk across the centre of the bars of the
blank by suitable tools and the screw press, as shewn in Figure 3; the lugs
are then to be turned down by similar means, as shewn in Figure 4. The
chape or prong is to be cut out of a strip of metal by similar tools of suitable
form, and a screw press, as shewn in Figure 5. The ends of the chape are
to be fitted into the said indentations on the ends of the bars, and the lugs
are then to be closed down upon the ends of the chape, forming gudgeons,
in which the ends of the chape partially rotate or move, and the buckle is
completely formed according to my Invention, as shewn at Figure 6.
The group C, Sheet 1, Figures 1, 2, 3, represents the forms of the several
blanks to produce a buckle, shewn at Figure 4 complete. The several
operations necessary to produce a buckle of this form are the same as those
I employ in making a buckle as last described in relation to group B.
The group D, Sheet 1, represents the different stages of manufacture of a
buckle or clasp formed of three parts, intended as a belt fastener for children's
dresses and other purposes. Figure 1 is the form of the blank for one part
of the clasp, which is afterwards shewn as pierced at Figure 2. Figures 3
and 4 shew the corresponding portion of the clasp in the same stages of
manufacture. Figures 5 and 6 shew the blank for the face plate or centre
part of the clasp in the same stages of manufacture, the whole three parts
being seen in combination for use at Figure 8.
The blank, Figure 2, is perforated with two slots or apertures A and B;
A being for the purpose of attaching one end of the belt or other article of
dress, and B for the purpose of receiving the small projecting flange or return
of the metal on the corresponding part of the clasp, shewn at C,Figures 3 and 4;
in the former of which it is shewn in the blank, and in the latter of which it is
shewn as returned or turned up at right angles with the blank in the next pro-
cess of manufacture. This portion of the clasp, Figure 4, which has also a slot
or aperture D pierced through the blank for the purpose of attaching to it the
other end of the belt or other article of dress intended to be fastened, is then
connected to the face plate or centre, part of the clasp by means of the lugs
or ears formed on the ends of that plate, as shewn at K in Figure 6, and at
K in the end elevation thereof, Figure 7. The pins or ends of the blank I, I,
Figure 4, are to be passed through holes in the lugs K, K, in the ends of the
face plate or centre piece, figures 6 and 7, in which they are retained by
pinching in the turned-up ends of the face plate, Figure 6, or, as it is com-
monly called by workmen, "springing them in," so that the face plate is

page_text: capable of being partially rotated or turned to and fro upon those pins. The
two parts I and M, Figure 8, being thus connected together, and attached,
as before described, to one end of a belt or other article of dress, the cor-
responding portion of the clasp N being affixed to the other end of the belt,
as before described, is made to engage with the other parts, by passing it
under the face plate M, and causing the flange on the part L to pass into the
slot Bon the part N (shewn in the blank, Figure 2), and thus afford a secure
fastening. To unfasten this clasp or buckle, the two parts L and N must be
turned at right angles with each other, when the clasp or fastener will readily
be released.
The group E, Sheet 1, represents the different stages of manufacture of
à clasp or buckle, intended also for a belt or band fastener, the pinch or
fastening being caused by a slight motion of the parts from diagonal to
vertical when connected, as will be seen and understood by reference to
Figure 6 of the same group, the other Figures representing the different
processes through which the blanks pass in the progress of manufacture.
This clasp or buckle. consists of two parts, A and B. Figure 6, secured
together as at C, in the same Figure, by means of an eyelet, in such manner
that the two parts are capable of a slight rotation or movement upon the
centre formed by the eyelet, or the parts may be made to move on a pin
'rivetted at each end.
One end of the belt is to be fastened to the slot D, Figure 6. Two pro-
jections E, E, are raised or struck on this blank in a line running diagonally
to the slot D. The other end of the belt is to be inserted under the rib F,
which is a raised part of the lower plate, having at its sides two interstices,
through which the upper plate is passed previous to their being connected at
'the eyelet C, whilst the clasp is held askaunt, in the position shewn at
Figure 6; the clasp is then to be slightly turned, until the slot D upon the
upper plate is in a line parallel to the rib F upon the lower plate, by which
tmeans the belt will be pinched between the projections E, E, and the under
side of the rib F, and securely fastened. To unfasten the clasp, the parts
inust be returned to the position shewn at Figure 6, and the belt will be
released.
The group F, Sheet 1, represents the different stages of manufacture of a
clasp or buckle intended for a belt or band fastener, also composed of two
-parts. Figures 1, 2, and 3 represent the blank for the face plate or front part
of the clasp in the different processes through which it passes in its course of
manufacture; Figures 4, 5, 6, and 8 represent those for the back plate in the
like course of manufacture, Figure 8 being a cross section or end view. The

page_text: two parts being combined in the same manner as is herein-before described
with reference to the mode of combining the parts of the buckle, as shewn in
the group D,Sheet 1, at Figures 6 and 7 of that group, namely, by springing or
inserting the pins a, a, Figure 6, into the lugs b, b, Figure 3; one end of the
belt is to be affixed to one of the bars of the front plate C, Figure 7, and
the other end of the belt is to be passed under the other bars of the same
plate, D and E, Figure 7, and through the slot F in the back plate, shewn
more clearly in Figure 6. The clasp is thus fastened by the pinch which
takes place between the edge of the bar of the front plate D, Figure 7, and
the edge G of the back plate. A slight motion of the parts will release the
band or belt.
The group G, Sheet 2, represents the different stages of manufacture of
another clasp or belt fastener, consisting of two parts used in combination, as
seen complete at Figure 8. The junction or fastening is effected at the back
part of the clasp, as shewn more particularly at Figure 7, which is a back
view of the clasp complete; and the remaining Diagrams, from Figures 1
to 6 inclusive, indicate the several processes of manufacture through which the
blanks pass in their progress to completion. Figures 3 and 6 shew each of
the parts of which the clasp is composed, separate and complete in itself
A, Figure 7, represents a flat hoop of metal, with a flange b turned up nearly,
but not quite, round its inner periphery. This flange is undercut or slotted for
a short distance at the points a', a¹. The blank C, Figure 7, shewn detached
and completed at Figure 6,is dished or hollowed to nearly the same depth as the
flange on the other blank, which is also shewn detached and complete at
Figure 3, and is also provided with a lug or ear, shewn at d, Figure 6. The
two ends of the belts are to be affixed to the slots or apertures E, E, Figure 7,
and the fastening of the clasp is to be effected by fitting the smaller part of
the clasp C, Figure 7, into the hoop of the larger part of the clasp A at the
space a', a', when by a slight turn of the two parts of the clasp in difference
directions, the neck f, and the lug D on the smaller part of the clasp C, are
forced into the slots on the flange of the hoop of the larger part of the clasp,
a secure fastening is obtained, similar in character to a bayonet fastening. A
reverse movement of the parts in opposite directions will release the fastening
of the clasp.
The group H, Sheet 2, represents the different stages of manufacture of
another clasp or buckle intended for a belt or band fastener, also consisting
of two parts, which act upon the principle of a wedge, which is shewn (as in
use) at Figure 8. Figures 1, 2, 3, and 4 shew one of the parts in its various
stages of manufacture, and Figures 5, 6, and 7 shew the outer part in the

page_text: like stages of manufacture. The thin end of the plate or piece, shewn as
completed at Figure 4, is to be passed through two slots or apertures in a
tubular slide piece a, Figures 8 and 9, shew more plainly at Figure 6,
which is the blank for the tubular slide piece in its second stage of manu-
facture, before it is turned up into a tubular form. The lower edge of the
plate bis doubled back and projects slightly at the ends, as shown at c, c,
Figure 8, also shewn in Figure 4, in order to prevent the slide a, Figure 8,
from slipping off the plate b. One end of the belt is to be affixed to the
aperture in the plate b, and the other end of the belt is to be passed through
both the slots in the slide a. A strain upon the belt pulls the slide a towards
the double part of the plate b, and thus wedges the belt between the slide a
and the doubled edge of the plate b, by which means a secure fastening is
obtained. To unfasten this clasp, the slide a should be drawn back by hand
into the position shewn at Figure 8, and the belt will be released.
;
The group I, Sheet 3, represents a buckle or dress fastener, als o consisting
of two parts, in the different stages of manufacture, as represented in the
several Diagrams, Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6, and shewn complete in
Figure 7 the parts are to be combined in the following manner :-The front
plate a, Figure 7, is to be turned over at the ends, in which slots are to be
cut, as seen at Figure 8. These slots are to receive the pins on the ends of
the back plate 6', 6', Figure 6, of the under plate 6 of the buckle, Figure 7.
By this arrangement a sliding notion of the under plate upon the upper plate
is allowed. One end of the belt is to be affixed to the slot C, Figure 7, and
the other end of the belt is to be passed between the front plate and the back
plate. A strain upon the belt has a tendency to wedge the loose end of the
belt tightly between the teeth or chape on the centre bar d, Figure 7, and
the thickened edge of the under part of the clasp, by which a secure
fastening will be obtained. By relating the strain on the belt, the grip of
the buckle will be released, and the loose end of the belt: may be withdrawn.
Figures 12 and 13 of the same group shew a front and back view of a
clasp or buckle, also intended for a belt fastener, made upon the same prin-
ciple; but instead of the slot, seen at Figure S, the edges of the front plate are
simply turned or doubled back to form a groove, in which the under plate is
made to slide or travel. The action of this buckle when in use is precisely
the same as in the buckle shewn at Figure 7, and last previously described.
The several Diagrams shewn at Figures 9, 10, and 11, shew the blanks in
different stages of manufacture.
The group K, Sheet 3, represents the different stages of manufacture of a
clasp or buckle, also intended for a belt fastener, consisting of three parts

page_text: shewn in combination for use at Figure 12 of the same group, in which the
fastening is obtained by means of a wedge-formed bolt, affixed either at the
back or front of a face plate, Figure 11. The clasp shewn at Figure 12
represents the former of these positions. One end of the belt intended to be
fastened is to be affixed to a slot in the face plate a, Figure 11, by passing it
through the slot band securing it there, as in the other forms of buckle
already described, and the loose end of the belt is to be passed under the
tube C, Figure 12, in which tube the bolt d (the form of which is shewn at
Figure 8) slides or works up and down. The fins E, E, Figures 5 and 12,
are to be passed through the slot g in the front of the tube c, Figure 12, and
turned down right and left upon the tube. The tapered form of the bolt, as
shewn at Figure 5, causes it to act as a wedge upon the belt when the bolt is
pushed dowu.
When the bolt is raised the belt may be drawn tighter or
loosened at pleasure. The lugs I, I, Figures 1 and 2, are formed upon the
blank for the purpose of attaching the tube to the face plate, by brazing,
rivetting, or otherwise, as may be found most convenient.
Having thus described the nature of my said Invention, and in what
manner the same is to be performed, I do not confiue myself to these precise
details, as the same admit of variations without departing from the principles
of the Invention; what I claim, and desire to have secured to me, is,-
Firstly, the improvement in the manufacture of a buckle entire from one
piece of metal, as shewn in the group A, Sheet 1 of the Drawings hereto.
Secondly, I claim as Invention the improvements in the manufacture of
buckles, by forming the joints thereof as shewn respectively in the groups B
and C, Sheet 1 of the said Drawings.
Thirdly, I also claim as Invention the improvements in the manufacture of
clasps and buckles, by which the fastening is obtained by the combination of
the several parts of the clasp or buckle, as shewn respectively in the groups
D, E, and F, Sheet 1; G and H, Sheet 2; and I and K, Sheet 3, of the said
Drawings.
In witness whereof, I, the said Henry Jenkins, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Twenty-seventh day of September, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-six.
HENRY JENKINS. (L.S.)