Improvements in Adjustable Patterns for Drafting Garments.
Year: 1891

page_text: Date of Application, 23rd Sept.; 1891-Accepted, 14th Nov., 1891
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Adjustable Patterns for Drafting Garments.
I, GRIFFITH BREWER of 33 Chancery Lane in the County of London Mechanical
Draughtsman do hereby declare the nature of this invention (a communication to
me from abroad by Albert McDowell, of 4 West 14th Street, New York in the
United States of America, Manufacturer) and in what manner the same is to
be performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement :-
This invention relates to that class of patterns, usually of metal, which are made
of parts adjustably connected together, whereby the pattern may be set or adjusted
to the measures taken and the parts then clamped together.
When so set, the cloth or material, or paper patterns may be outlined or marked
by following the outlines of the adjustable pattern. Such patterns are usually
provided with scales whereby the parts may be adjusted.
The object of the present invention is to provide a pattern of the above character
for cutting out trousers from the usual measures taken by the tailor.
A pair of trousers is made up in the main of two like or substantially like halves
or divisions cach of which consists of a front and back part, which are united at
their edges by seams to form the leg portion, seat portion, and waist portion; and
I provide an adjustable pattern for the said front part and another for the back
part, two patterns only being required. After the measures have been taken in the
It is only
usual way, these patterns are set thereto and the parts clamped fast.
necessary then for the tailor or cutter to lay the patterns on the goods, and mark
the outline of the same on the latter; the goods may then be cut along the line
marked.
In the accompanying drawings, which serve to illustrate two arrangements of
this invention,
Figure 1 is the part pattern for the front portion of the trousers, and
Figure 2 the part pattern for the back portion thereof. These views show an
arrangement of the invention where the lateral expansion and contraction is on both
sides of a entral base line.
Figures and 4 are respectively similar views, illustrating an arrangement of the
invention where the lateral expansion and contraction is nearly all at one side of a
base line.
The pattern will usually be made of sheet metal, but other materials may be used
in its const. uction. The plates forming the outline where seams are required may
be of the proper width to allow for the seam. The outer margin, generally speaking
marks the outer line.
The several parts or plates of the pattern are connected together in three ways;
namely, by rivets or integrally, which for convenience I will characterize by the
phrase, "rigidly connected;" by a hinge rivet or stud to form a joint or articu-
lation which I will characterize as "hinged," and by slots and rivets or screws, so
that the plates are at liberty to slide on each other for purposes of adjustment,
which I will characterize simply as "connected."
Reterring to Figure 1 which represents the part pattern for the front portion of
the trousers, plates A', A', A and A' form the longitudinal base bar of the pattern,
and plates A, A6, A7, A8, A, A1, A", A", the transverse bars thereof.
Plate A is connected at its upper end to plate A', and at its lower end to
plate A3; plate A³ is connected at its lower end to plate A'. These connected
plates form a rigid base bar, adjustable longitudinally at three points, and these
adjustments are independent of each other and of the lateral or transverse adjust-
ments, to be hereinafter described.

page_text: -
Plates A and A' are connected together and to the plate A¹, and form the
transverse waist bar; plates A' and A8 are connected together and to plate A² to
form the transverse crotch or seat bar; plates A and A are connected together
and to plate A³ to form the transverse knee bar, and plates A" and A" are
connected together and to the plate A' to form the transverse bottom bar. The
above described connected plates form the skeleton or frame of the pattern said
bars being all extensible lengthwise and provided with scales for setting to measure,
and clamp screws for securing them when properly set. The adjustment of each
transverse bar may be effected independently of that of the others, and of the
adjustments of the base bar.
The waist bar and bottom bar also form parts of the outline of the pattern. On
the right hand side of the pattern as seen in Figure 1, the plates A1, A", A¹×,
A, A, and A form the outline at the outside seam; plate A1 is hinged to
plate A at its upper end and connected to plate A" at its lower end; plate A¹
and plate A* are hinged to plate A³, and plate A¹× is connected at its lower end
to plate A plate A and plate A10x are hinged to plate A10, and plate A10x is
connected at its lower end to plate A¹ and this latter plate is hinged at its lower
end to plate A¹³.
16
On the left hand side of Figure 1 the plates A", A", A", and A20 form the
outline at the fly on the front and the plates A, A1, A2, and A" form the out-
line of the inside seam of the leg. The plate A" is hinged at its upper end to the
plate A and at its lower end it is connected to the plate A18; the latter is
connected at its lower end to the transverse plate A' through the medium of a
longitudinally extending slot in the latter. The plates A1 and A2 are curved and
connected together the former being hinged at its upper end to plate A18 and the
latter (plate A20) being hinged at the lower end to an outwardly projecting angle
at the upper end of plate A". This latter plate which is broad at its upper part
is hinged at its inner angle to the outer end of the plate A'. The outer edge of
plate A is curved and it is connected at its lower end to the plate Ax, this
fatter plate and plate A" are hinged to the transverse plate A' and plate A" is
connected at its lower end to plate A 23. The plate A is hinged at its lower end
to the transverse plate A.
This construction permits the pattern to be expanded and contracted both
laterally and longitudinally. The pattern may be set to the measures
follows:-
as
The connected plates A³ and A* are adjusted to the measure from the knee to
the bottom of the leg by the graduated scale a on plate A*, and the plates are
clamped together. The plates A³ and A are adjusted to the measure from knee
to crotch by the scale a on plate A and the plates clamped fast. The plates A¹
and A' are adjusted to the measure from crotch to waist by the scale a² on plate A'
and these plates clamped fast. These measures give the length. The width at the
bottom of the leg is obtained by adjusting plates A" and A" to the scale a³ on
piate A and the plates clamped fast. The plates A and A° are adjusted to the
measure at the knee by the scale a' on plate A10 and the plates clamped fast.
The plates A and A are adjusted to the measure at the hip or the thigh by the
scale a and the plates clamped fast, and the plates A³ and A are adjusted to the
waist measure by the scale a on plate A' and these plates clamped fast. The plates
at the sides of the pattern will adjust themselves automatically. The pattern thus
adjusted is ready for use.
In order to effect the required adjustment at both sides of the central longitudinal
base bar, formed of the plates A' to A', 1 provide the pattern with four sets of
links, or spreading devices, one at the waist bar, one at the crotch bar, one at the
knee bar, and one at the bottom bar. These devices consist each of a link or
lever to pivotted or hinged at the middle on the central longitudinal bar and two
links coupled to the respective ends of the link w, at one end, and to the
respective ends of the transverse bar at their other ends. These sets of links are
so clearly illustrated in Figure 1 that they will require no further description.

page_text: The clamping of the sliding plates together may be effected by any suitable
clamping devices; I prefer to employ clamping screws r, one at each point of
adjustment. The numerals of the several scales will of course be marked on the
plates forming the pattern; but owing to the small scale of the drawings these
numerals have been herein represented as at the sides of the several graduated
plates.
Figure 2 illustrates the part pattern for the back or rear portion of the trousers.
This pattern will be constructed on substantially the same principles as that
described. It will have a longitudinal base bar, composed of plates B'₁, B², B³,
and B4, and a crotch bar, knee bar and bottom bar, composed, respectively, of
connected plates B7, B8, B, B10, B", and B". The plates B2, B and B will be
provided respectively with scales 63, and ; and the plates B8, B10, and B will
be provided, respectively with scales 6, 6 and 6. The crotch bar, knee bar and
bottom bar will each be provided with a spreading device consisting of a lever w
and links ', like the corresponding devices shown in Figure 1 and hereinbefore
described.
The plates at the right hand side of Fig. 2 and which correspond to the outside
seam of the leg; namely, B1, B1, B1, B, B and B will be joined or coupled
in the same manner as the corresponding plates in Figure 1. Plate B may have
a convex contour at y just below the knee, and plate B will have a salient contour
at the bottom y¹.
The plates on the left hand side of Fig.
from the crotch down and corre-
sponding to the inside seam of the leg; namely B", B¹×, B", and B will be
joined or coupled in the same manner as the corresponding parts in Figure 1.
Plate B may have a convex contour at y just below the knee, and plate B"
will have a salient contour at the bottom yx. The widening of the pattern at
the bottom is to impart the "spring" to the bottom of the leg of the trousers.
Above the crotch bar this pattern differs somewhat in construction from that
seen in Figure 1. The plate B is rigidly connected to the plate B¹, and is arranged
at right angles thereto. The plate Be is connected to the plate B' and hinged to
the upper end of the plate B. There is no scale on plate B. The plate B" is
connected to the prolonged extremity of plate B³, which it crosses, the plate B³
being slotted at the connecting point and provided with a scale 6. The plate B18
is connected to the lower end of plate B", and at its lower end it is connected to
plate B7 in the same manner that plate A8 (Figure 1) is connected to plate A'.
The curved plates B1 and B20 are arranged in the same way as the corresponding
plates A1 and A2 in Fig. 1.
Above the plate B is an inclined waist bar composed of plates B* and B**. The
plate B is hinged to the plate Bat the same point at which the plate B is hinged
thereto.
The plate B** is connected to the plate B and at its other end it is con-
nected to the upper part of the plate B" above the plate B. The plate B
has in it a longitudinal slot, and a clamp screw on the plate B** plays in this
slot.
In setting this pattern to the measures, the longitudinal bar is set to the
measures for length from waist to crotch, crotch to knee, and knee to bottom, as
before described with reference to Fig. 1; and transverse crotch bar, knee bar and
bottom bar are also set to the respective measures, as set forth in the description
of Fig. 1.
The pattern is set to the waist measure by the scale 6** on the plate Bxx, and a
slope of the inclined bar is attained through the medium of the scale
plate B".
on
It will be seen that this pattern is composed of two separate but interdependent
parts, each provided with scales whereby the pattern may be set to the measures
taken by the tailor, and that each part is divided longitudinally from the crotch
down, into two extensible sections whereby the pattern may be set or adjusted to
the measure from crotch to knee, and from knee to bottom. It is also laterally

page_text: extensible so that it may be set or adjusted at the three points, namely crotch, knee
and bottom, to the measures taken at these points. At the crotch, a scale is
provided, for what is called the "body depths." In Figure 1 this scale a' is seen
on plate A', the lower end of plate A8 being set to this scale; and in Fig. 2 this
scale 6' is seen on plate B'.
It is desirable to provide the patterns with two sets of scales, one adapted for
use with the ordinary or actual measures taken by the tailor, as already described,
and the other being proportional scales, for cutting out ready made trousers to be
kept in stock. For example, if the seat measure be taken as the standard for
proportion, and this measure, in a particular case be 36 inches, then all the
proportional scales on the pattern will be set at the numeral 36, in order to cut a
garment having the desired proportion. In Figure 1 these proportional scales are
indicated respectively, by the letters e, e¹ e e³e and e; and in Figure 2 they are
indicated respectively, by the letters 9, 92, 93, 9, 9º, g×× and g¹.
There will be two scales on the crotch bar, by preference, one for the thigh
measure, marked as in Fig. 1 and 2 in Fig. 2, and the other for the hip measure
marked a in Fig. 1, and 6x in Fig. 2. This will enable the tailor to set his
pattern by either of these measures as he may desire.
The construction of the pattern as illustrated in Figures 3 and 4 differs from that
already described in having the longitudinal base bar arranged at one side or edge
instead of in the middle, and in having the lateral adjustments nearly all at onc
side of said bar. Then the equalizing devices seen in Figs. 1 and 2 are dispensed
with.
Figure 3 is a part pattern for the front portion of the trousers, and corresponds
to the pattern seen in Figure 1.
At the left hand side is a marginal base bar, corresponding to the fly and the
inside seam of the leg, and comprising the plates C₁ C18 C1 C2 C20× C1 C2
and C The transverse bars are formed of the following named plates: the waist
bar of plates C and C, the seat bar of plates C and C, the knee bar of plates C
and C, and the bottom bar of plates C and C".
The plate C is rigidly secured to the plate C at its upper end and is connected
at its other end to the plate C18. This latter plate is rigidly secured to the plate C7
at its lower end.
The plate C is rigidly secured at its upper end to the plate C7, and is connected
at its lower end to the plate C. The plate C" is rigidly secured to the plate C
and is connected at its lower end to plate C", which latter plate is rigidly secured
to the plate C of the bottom bar.
The curved plates C and CT are connected together and the plate C" is hinged
to the plate C¹³ at its upper end. At its lower end the plate C is connected to a
slotted prolongation on the plate C. The plate Cox is also curved; it is connected
to the plate C7 at the same point with plate C20, and is connected through the
medium of a slot in its lower end with the plate C
Of the transverse bars, the two plates of which each bar is composed are
connected together. The contour of the pattern at the right hand side in Figure 3,
which corresponds to the outside sean of the trousers, consists of the connected
plates C¹³, C, C1, C1, C1 and C.
Plate C is hinged to plate C; plates C¹³× and C14 are hinged to plate C8;
plates C and C are hinged to plate Co, and plate C is hinged to plate C".
The ordinary or actual measures of length are set on the scales c, c¹ and c³ on
the respective plates C, C and C18; and the transverse measures are set on the
scales c, c, c, and c on the respective plates c¹², clo, and c.
The measure of body depth at the crotch is set on the scale c on plate C7, along
which the clamp screw c which connects the plates C, and Cox thereto, may be
moved.
On this pattern h, h', h², h³, and are the proportional scales before
referred to, in describing the patterns illustrated in Figures 1 and 2.
Figure 4 is the part pattern of the back portion of the trousers, said pattern

page_text: corresponding to the pattern illustrated in Fig. 2, except that as in Fig. 3, the
lateral expansion and contraction is nearly all at one side and not equally on
opposite sides of a central longitudinal base bar.
Above the crotch bar the construction is practically the same as in Fig. 2, and
below the said bar it is substantially the same as the lower portion of the pattern
in Figure 3. Consequently, only a brief description will be needed.
The longitudinal measurements are set on the base bar comprising the plates D*
and D above the crotch bar, and the plates D", D" and D" below said bar. These
plates constitute the longitudinal base bar. The transverse bars are composed of
the plates Dx, D**, D³, D°, D', D8, D, D10, D" and D12. Plate D³ is rigidly
connected to plate D³, and connected to the plate D; and this latter plate is
rigidly connected at its lower end to plate D' Plate D is rigidly connected to
plate D and connected to plate D". Plate D" is rigidly connected to plate D°,
and connected at its lower end to plate D”. This latter plate is rigidly connected
to plate D. The waist bar comprises the connected plates D' and De; the crotch
bar of the connected plates D' and D; the knee bar of the connected plates D⁹
and D, and the bottom bar of the connected plates D" and D¹.
The inclined bar above the waist bar is composed of the connected plates D*
and D. Plates D**, D, D*, D1 and D" are hinged to the respective connected
plates D¹³, D1, D14, D15, D1 and D, which form the outline at the outside seam
of the trousers.
The actual or ordinary measures are set on the scale d, d', d, d³, d', d³, d³, d', d",
and * and the proportional measures may be set on the scale
27 217
and The thigh measure may be set by the scale d³× on the crotch bar
plate D³.
The connected plates D and D18 are arranged the same as the corresponding
plates in Figure 2, and the curved plates D1, D2, and D20 are arranged the same
as the corresponding plates in Figure 3.
The pairs of curved plates A1, A2, in Figure 1, B1, B20, in Figure 2, C1, C2, in
Figure 3, and D, D in Figure 4, perform the same function in all of these part
patterns, and this function is to regulate the depth of the body. Consequently the
pair of plates is made adjustable at one end or the other, towards and from the
longitudinal base bar, or the axis of the part pattern.
In Figures 1 and 2, for example, the pair of curved plates is adjustable at its
upper end by the shifting of the plates A and B18, while in Figure 3 it is adjustable
at its lower end along the slot in the transverse plate C7, the curved plate C20×
being shifted simultaneously therewith.
By reason of the improvements herein described a pattern is provided which will
hold its form, or maintain its general contour when unclamped, and will at the
same time allow of the necessary expansion or contraction in every direction and to
When set and clamped it will be rigid and
the extent required for ordinary 1500
afford a complete outline pattern about which the tailor or fitter may run his chalk
with perfect ease and with assurance of its correctness.
I do not wish to limit myself to the precise construction herein shown, as this
may be varied to some extent without departing materially from the invention.
The plates of which the pattern is composed may be of convenient width and of
any suitable material.
The adjustable pattern is designed especially for use in drafting trousers and
garments of a similar character, such as drawers overalls &c., and in drafting paper
patterns for such garments.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of this inven
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. A part pattern for drafting trousers and similar garments, composed of con-
nected plates which slide on each other at the points of adjustment, and consisting
of a centrally arranged longitudinally extensible and rigid base bar having three

page_text: independently extensible points of adjustment and scales at these points, transverse
independently extensible bars at the waist, crotch, knee and bottom, crossing and
connected with said base bar and each having a scale for setting it to measure, the
outline or marginal plates, and spreaders, one at each of said transverse bars, each
spreader consisting of a lever, pivotally attached at its middle to the base bar, and
links which couple the respective ends of said levers with the ends of the base bar,
as set forth.
2. The part pattern for drafting the front of the trousers, composed of connected
plates which slide upon each other at the several points of adjustment, and con-
sisting of the longitudinally extensible base bar, the extensible transverse bars,
which cross the base bar and are connected therewith, the series of plates A", A**,
A, and A forming the outline for the inside seam, said series of plates being
connected to the transverse bars, and the plates A, A18, A1, and A, forming the
outline of the fly, said plates A" and A18 being connected together, the former
hinged to the waist bar and the latter having a sliding connection with the crotch
bar, and the curved plates A1, and A20 being connected together, the former
hinged to the plate A18 and the latter to the outline plate A", as set forth.
3. In an adjustable part pattern for drafting the front of the trousers, the
combination of the several plates connected together and arranged in the manner
following, namely: the plates A', A2, A3 and A', which form the base bar, and
..slide on each other at the points of adjustment, the plates A' and A which form
the transverse waist bar, and slide on each other, the plates A' and A, which form
the transverse crotch bar and slide on each other, the plates A and A1, which
form the transverse knee bar, and slide on each other, the plates A" and A", which
form the transverse botton bar and slide on each other, the plates A", A", A",
A15, Ax, and A18, forming the outline at the outside seam, said plates sliding on
each other where connected, and the series of plates hinged to the ends of the
transverse bars, the plates A" and A", connected together and sliding on each
other, the plate A" being hinged to the plate A³, and the plate A18 connected to
the plate A', the curved plates A" and A, connected and sliding on each other,
the plate A being hinged to the plate A, and the plate A hinged to the
plate A2, and the plates A2, A21×, A2, and A2, which forms the outline at the
inside seam, connected and sliding on each other, said series of plates being hinged
to the transverse bars, substantially as set forth.
4. In an adjustable part pattern for the front of the trousers, the combination
with the transverse slotted plate A', provided with a scale a', the exteriorly curved
plate A, the transverse plate A°, the plates A" and A18, connected together, the
former hinged to plate A, and the latter connected to plate A' at the said scale, of
the connected curved plates A1 and A2, hinged at one end to plate A18 and at the
other end to plate A", said plates sliding upon each other where connected, sub-
stantially as set forth.
5. In an adjustable part pattern for the back of the trousers, the combination of
the connected plates B and B×× forming the inclined bar above the waist and
sliding on each other, and the plates B1 and B, forming the outline for the back
seam, and also sliding on each other, the inclined bar having a slotted connection
with said plate B", substantially as set forth.
6. In an adjustable part pattern for the back of the trousers, the combination
with the connected plates B7 and B8, forming the extensible, transverse crotch bar,
the connected plates B and B, forming the extensible, transverse waist bar, the
connected plates B1 and B2, which unite the said waist bar and the crotch bar, and
form an extensible base bar provided with a scale 63, the connected outline
plates B and B¹³×, of which the former is hinged to the waist bar and the
latter to the crotch bar, the connected outline plates B" and B18, of which the
former has a slotted connection with the plate B and the latter a like connection
with the plate B7, the connected plates Bx and Bxx, of which the former is hinged
to the plate B, and the latter has a slotted connection with the plate B", the
connected curved plates B1 and B2, of which the former is hinged to the plate R18

page_text: and the latter to plate B", and said plate B", the adjustments being independent
and the plates sliding upon each other where connected.
7. An adjustable part pattern for drafting trousers, composed of connected
plates which slide upon each other at the several points of adjustment, and having
a pair of curved plates connected and sliding upon each other, which plates form
the outline at the crotch, said pair of connected plates being adjustable towards
and from the longitudinal axis of the pattern at one extremity independently of the
other adjustments of the pattern, for the purpose of varying the depth of the body,
as set forth.
8. In an adjustable part pattern for drafting the back of the trousers, the com-
bination of the several plates connected together and arranged in the manner
following, namely: the plates B1, B2, B3, B4, which form the base bar and slide on
each other at the points of adjustment, the plates B and B which form the
transverse waist bar and slide on each other, the plates B' and B8 which form the
transverse crotch bar, aud slide on each other, the plates B and B10, which form
the transverse knee bar and slide on each other, the plates B" and B, which
form the transverse bottom bar and slide on each other, the plates B, Bux, B¼,
B16, B1, and B1, forming the outline at the outside seam, said plates sliding on
each other where connected and the series of plates hinged to the ends of the
transverse bars, the plates B1 and B, connected and sliding on each other, the
plate B having a slotted connection with the plate B' and the plate B18 having a
slotted connection with plate B', the plates B and B**, connected and sliding on
each other, the former hinged to plate B and the latter having a slotted connection
with plate B, the curved plates B and B, connected and sliding on each other,
the former hinged to plate B18 and the latter hinged to plate B" and the
plates B, B1, B2, and B2, forming the outline at the inside seam, said plates
being connected and sliding on each other where connected and the series of plates
being hinged to the transverse bars, substantially as set forth.
Dated this 23rd day of September 1891.
BREWER & SON,
Agents for the Applicant.