IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CERTAIN FORMS OF PLAITED OR GOFFERED FRILLING RUCHING OR TRIMMING
Year: 1884

page_text: I EDWARD SAMUEL BOYS TOMBS of 12 Red Cross Street in the City of London
Frilling Manufacturer do hereby declare the nature of my said invention for
IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CERTAIN
FORMS OF PLAITED OR GOFFERED FRILLING RUCHING OR TRIMMING, to be as
follows:-
My said invention relates to the manufacture of frillings ruchings or similar
trimmings of a pattern approximating to a horizontal or vertical zig-zag, the same
being attached or not to a suitable body or foundation fabric; and my Invention
has for its object improvements in the construction of machinery or apparatus
whereby such frillings ruchings or trimmings may be produced in a more efficient
manner and with greater facility than heretofore.
In the production of these frillings ruchings or trimmings a machine has been
employed composed of a flanged hollow cylinder bearing on its body at each side
of the flange a cylindrical ring, the two rings being provided with grooves around
their circumference in which work two series of formers each consisting of a blade
or flat piece of metal. The two series of formers are required to have a recipro-
cating motion in opposite directions so as to alternately engage with and recede
from each other the material being fed between then (vertically or horizontally
according to the pattern desired) and formed into the zig-zag shape by the
engagement of the formers, to be afterwards trapped or pressed in order to retain
the shape which has been imparted. It has been customary to obtain this
reciprocating motion of the formers by means of cams or inclined grooves or ridges
which act upon such a number of the formers at a time as come within their
range and thus impart a gradual and progressive motion of engagement and
retraction. This gradual engagement of a number of formers simultaneously is
attended with objections in operating with fine work (whether in form or material)
which objections it is in part the object of my invention to obviate.
In carrying out my Invention I may construct the machine generally in the
manner hereinbefore described but in lieu of operating a number of the formers
together with a gradual and progressive movement by the aid of a cam or incline
I operate each former separately as it is brought by the revolution of the machine
•
11

page_text: opposite a given point, with an impulse or sudden motion produced by impact
applied either directly or indirectly. For this purpose it is convenient to employ
for striking or impelling the formers a bar carried by one arm of a pivotted double
armed lever the other arm of which is acted upon by a cam or equivalent device
capable of imparting an intermittent motion. It is not however essential although
preferable that the former should be operated with a sudden impulse as they may
be acted upon singly with a gradual or progressive movement.
It should be understood that the material is suitably guided into the machine.
In forming the vertical zig zag the material is fed in horizontally and over one
former and under the next and so on; the guide which holds and feeds in the
material having an up and down movement so that when one former is in its
position the material will be elevated so as to be out of the way of the next former
which will pass under it and after that is in its position the material will be
depressed so that the next former can pass over it.
By the action of the impelling devices the formers are thus caused to engage
and so produce the pattern which is afterwards trapped or pressed, the formers
after the completion of the pattern by trapping or pressing being retracted in the
ordinary manner as hereinbefore explained or otherwise.
I further improve the said machine by the employment of means whereby I
obtain increased space for the feeding of the material to the formers. These
means may consist in the interposition between the hollow cylinder and the
internal periphery of the former-carriers of a stationary eccentric so fitted as to
allow the hollow cylinder and the former carriers to rotate freely the eccentric
being of such proportions as to cause the bottom of the formers when the latter
are engaged and while the pattern is being trapped or pressed to rest upon the
outer surface of the flange of the hollow cylinder whilst allowing a sufficient space
between the outer surface of such flange and the bottom of the formers when the
latter are not engaged. It will thus be understood that the flange of the hollow
cylinder is a circle of a smaller circumference than the circle described by the
bottom of the formers whilst their surfaces coincide at one point (viz the point
where the operation of trapping or pressing is performed) from which point they
diverge on both sides. Or I may dispense with the hollow flanged cylinder and
eccentric and accomplish the same result by the use of a wheel which takes the
place of the flange and is made of equal width to the same, but of less diameter or
a segment thereof or a curved plate, the function of the wheel, wheel segment or
curved plate being the same as that of the flange viz that of supporting the
formers at the part where their engagement is effected and the process of trapping
or pressing takes place. In this case the former-carriers will require to be mounted
on a shaft or axis.
It is obvious that I may employ the improved method of actuating the formers
in those cases whero they are carried by a chain or rack.
Dated this ninth day of Anvil 1001

page_text: <:
I EDWARD SAMUEL BOYS TOMBS of 12 Red Cross Street in the City of
London Frilling Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of my invention
for IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF
CERTAIN FORMS OF PLAITED OR GOFFERED FRILLING RUCHING OR TRIMMING," and
in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement:—
My Invention relates to the manufacture of frillings, ruchings, or similar
trimmings of a pattern approximating to a horizontal or vertical zig-zag, the same
being attached or not to a suitable body or foundation fabric, and my Invention
has for its object improvements in machinery or apparatus whereby such frillings,
ruchings or trimmings may be produced in a more efficient manner and with
greater facility than lieretofore.
In the production of these frillings ruchings or trimmings a machine has been
employed composed of a flanged hollow cylinder bearing on its body at each side
of the flange a cylindrical ring, the two rings being provided with grooves or slots,
around their circumference through which work two series of "formers" each
consisting of a blade or flat piece of metal-The two series of formers are required
to have a reciprocating motion in opposite directions so as to alternately engage
with and recede from each other, the material being fed in between them (vertically
or horizontally according to the pattern desired) and formed into the zig-zag shape
by the engagement of the formers to be afterwards trapped or pressed in order to
retain the shape which has been imparted. It has been customary to obtain this
reciprocating motion of the formers by means of cams or inclined grooves or ridges
which act upon such a number of the formers at a time as come within their range
and thus impart a gradual and progressive motion of engagement and retraction.
This gradual engagement of a number of formers simultaneously attended with
objections in operating with fine work (whether in form or material) which
objections it is one object of my invention to obviate.
According to the first part of my Invention, which is applicable to the production
of both the horizontal and vertical zig-zag patterns, in lieu of operating a number
of the formers together as heretofore I operate each former singly or separately as
it is brought by the revolution or motion of the machine opposite a given point.
For this purpose I may employ for striking or impelling the formers a tappet
carried by or connected to a pivotted lever which is acted upon by a cam or
equivalent device capable of imparting an intermittent motion. By the action of
the impelling devices the formers are thus caused to engage and so produce the
pattern which is afterwards trapped or pressed the formers after the completion of
the pattern by trapping or pressing being retracted in the ordinary manner as
hereinbefore explained or otherwise. This part of my Invention is also applicable
to the actuation of the formers in those cases where they are carried by a chain or
rack.
The second part of my invention, which is more particularly adapted for the
production of the vertical zig-zag, relates to further improvements in the machine
herein before referred to whereby I obtain increased space for the feeding of the
material to the formers, and the operation of the guides used in connection there-
with. These means consist by preference in the interposition between the hollow
cylinder and the internal periphery of the former-carriers of a stationary eccentric
so fitted as to allow the hollow cylinder and the former-carriers to rotate freely,
the eccentric being of such proportions as to cause the bottom of the formers when
the latter are engaged and while the pattern is being trapped or pressed to rest

page_text: upon the outer surface of the flange of the hollow cylinder whilst allowing a
sufficient space between the outer surface of such flange and the bottom of the
formers where the feeding is required to be effected. It will thus be understood
that the flange of the hollow cylinder is a circle of a smaller circumference than
the circle described by the bottom of the formers whilst their surfaces coincide at
one point (viz the point where the operation of trapping or pressing is performed)
from which point they diverge on both sides. Or I may dispense with the hollow
flanged cylinder and the eccentric and accomplish the same result by the use of a
wheel which takes the place of the cylinder-flange and is made of equal width to
the same but of less diameter, or by a segment thereof or a curved plate, the
function of the wheel, wheel segment or curved plate being the same as that of the
flange viz: that of supporting the formers at the part where their engagement is
effected and the process of trapping or pressing takes place whilst at the same time
such wheel wheel segment or curved plate is clear of or separated from the bottom
of the formers at the part where the feeding is required to be accomplished. In
this case the former-carriers will require to be mounted on a shaft or axis.
In forming the vertical zig-zag the material is fed in horizontally and over one
former and under the next and so on the guide which holds and feeds in the
material having an up and down movement so that when one former is in its
position the material will be elevated so as to be out of the way of the next former
which will pass under it, and after that is in its position the material will bo
depressed so that the next former can pass over it.
And in order that the said Invention may be perfectly understood I shall now
proceed more particularly to describe the same and for that purpose shall refer to
the several figures on the accompanying sheet of drawings, the same letters of
reference indicating corresponding parts in all the corresponding figures.
Figures 1 and 1a and Figures 2 and 2* of the accompanying drawings represent
as types or examples, two patterns of the material which this machinery is designed
to produce Figures 1 and 1a being respectively an elevation and under plan of
that designated the horizontal zig-zag and Figures 2 and 2* respectively an eleva-
tion and under plan of the vertical zig-zag.
Figures 3, 4 and 5 represent the improvements in the machinery or apparatus
which constitute the first part of my Invention, Figure 3 being a transverse
vertical section taken along the line 1-2, (Figure 4), Figure 4 a side elevation
partly in section and Figure 5 a plan of a machine having my Invention applied
thereto, the trapping or pressing roller and its shaft being assumed to be removed
in Figure 5.
Figures 6 and 7 illustrate the second part of my Invention with the improve-
ments forming the first part of my Invention in. this case shown in combination
with it, Figure 6 being a transverse vertical section taken along the line 3-4
(Fig. 7) and Figure 7 a longitudinal section of a machine embodying my Invention.
With reference to the patterns of the material represented respectively in
Figures 1 and 1 and Figures 2 and 2, it will be observed that the formed
patterns are both shewn attached to a body or foundation fabric, but this may be
dispensed with by the employment of gummed strings or by turning over the
contiguous edges of the plaits or top to a sufficient extent so that they may be
caused to adhere together or be secured by gummed strings or otherwise. In the
following description however it will be assumed that a body or foundation fabric
which may itself be of any suitable description or pattern is employed as shewn
at 1 in Figures 1 and 18 and Figures 2 and 2ª.
It should further be observed that in the drawings to be presently described the
distance between the formers is exaggerated for the sake of clearness in delineation
the intervening spaces being shewn greater than would be the case in practice for
the production of the patterns illustrated in Figs 1 and 1 and Figs 2 and 2*.
Referring to Figures 3, 4, and 5, A is a hollow internally heated cylinder mounted
in bearings at a a in standards B so as to be capable of rotary motion and provided
with a central flange b which forms the supporting surface to receive the pressure

page_text: of the trapping or pressing roller C the shaft C¹ of which is also mounted in
bearings cc in the said standards and arranged to receive rotary motion through
the intervention of the gearing d d from the cylinder A. Around the cylinder and
attached thereto are two rings D, D¹ herein designated the former carriers which
are arranged one at each side of the flange 6 of the cylinder A and are provided
all round with radial grooves or slots e for the reception of two series of formers ffl
each consisting of a blade or flat piece of metal. The two series of formers have a
reciprocating motion in opposite directions so as to alternately engage with and
recede from each other, the material 2 suitably guided at 3 being fed between them
vertically is carried round by the motion of the cylinder in the direction indicated
by the arrow in Figure 3 and being formed into the zig-zag shape shewn in
Figures 1 and 1 by the engagement of the formers ff¹ to be afterwards trapped
or pressed on to the body or foundation fabric 4 by the roller C in order to retain
the shape which has been imparted. The machine thus far described is constructed
substantially in the ordinary manner. Now this part of my invention relates to an
improved method of operating the formers, which consists in operating each former
singly or separately as it is brought by the revolution or motion of the machine
opposite a given point in lieu of a number of the formers being operated together
as heretofore. In the example illustrated I obtain the requisite separate action of
the formers in the following manner :-
E, E, are tappets fitted so as to be capable of sliding along a bar F carried by
the standards B, B, of the machine and extending across from end to end. To the
tappet E which is intended to operate the formers f is connected the extremity
of a lever G which is pivotted at g to an attachment to the base plate G' on which
the standards B and the whole of the working parts are carried, and is provided
intermediately with a stud or roller h engaging in the groove i of a barrel cam H
fast on a shaft e¹ supported in bearings g-The tappet E¹ which is intended to
operate the formers f¹ is similarly connected to the extremity of a lever G' which
is pivotted at g' to an attachment to the base plate G2 and carries a stud or roller /'
engaging in the groove i¹ of a barrel cam H¹ also fast on the shaft e¹. This shaft
receives motion by means of bevel gearing I, I, from the main shaft I¹ supported
in bearings and carrying the driving pullies 12 12; this main shaft also has
secured thereon a worm K engaging with a worm wheel K¹ on an extension of the
cylinder A whence the said cylinder derives its rotary motion. The gearing K K¹
are so proportioned that the speed of the shaft e¹ shall be a multiple of the speed
of the cylinder A equal to the number of the formers constituting one series, and
the cams H H are so shaped and timed that for every revolution of the cylinder
the whole of the formers in the two sets will have been operated one by one by
the respective tappets E E' the tappet E operating one of the formers f and
returning leaving it engaged with the material, and a former f¹ next being
operated by the tappet E¹ which also returns leaving the former which it has
operated engaged, and so on in succession the two tappets acting alternately upon
one of the formers of the respective series which it is designed to operate as they
are brought one by one opposite the point 5. In the drawing, the tappet E is
represented as about to strike the former f*, whilst the tappet E is assumed to have
just struck the former f**. The formers f* and f** then remain engaged with the
material 2 until by the revolution of the machine they arrive beneath the roller C
where the trapping or pressing takes place, and they continue to remain engaged
with the finished pattern until by the continued revolution of the machine the
point 6 is reached where the ordinary inclined bars or retracting cams L L', which
are supported by cheeks M M¹ on the base plate G³, commence to engage with
recesses 7 in the formers, the formers by the time the point 8 is arrived at being
completely withdrawn from the finished pattern which is there delivered from the
machine as shown in Figure 3.
Figures 6 and 7 represent a portion of a machine designed more especially for
the production of the vertical zig-zag. For this purpose the material has to be fed
in horizontally over one former and under the next and so on, and space is required

page_text: in which the guide which holds and feeds in the material may move up and down
so as to place the material alternately above and below the line of traverse of the
formers. In order to provide increased space for the introduction of the material
and the operation of the guide I interpose between the external periphery of the
hollow cylinder A and the former carriers D D¹ stationary eccentrics M, M', so fitted
as to allow the hollow cylinders A to revolve freely within it and the former
carriers to revolve freely around it, the eccentric being of such proportions as to
cause the bottom of the formers when brought by the revolution of the machine to
the place where the trapping or pressing roller C operates; to rest upon the outer
surface of the flange of the cylinder A whilst allowing sufficient space at 9
between the outer surface of such flange and the bottom of the formers when the
latter are situate at the hottom of the machine where the feeding takes place for
the introduction of the material and the operation of the feeding guide N. This
guide has imparted to it a reciprocating motion by means of the cam or wiper O
fast on a shaft P which extends across the machine and is suitably supported in
bearings not shewn and actuated from the main driving shaft, the action of the
catu or wiper having the effect of alternately raising the guide N which carries the
material so that it shall be out of the way of the next former which will pass
under the material and after that is in its position, depressing the guide N so that
the next former can pass over the material and so on in succession. In the
condition of the parts shewn in the drawing the guide N is in its elevated position
the former having already been operated and the former f** being about to be
operated, when by another fraction of the revolution of the machine it will be
brought opposite its respective tappet; the former f* having been struck by its
tappet the guide N will fall by it own weight to allow the next former to pass over
the material and then again rise for the next following former to pass beneath the
material and so on, the material engaged in the formers being carried round
until it is trapped or pressed by the operation of the roller C and the finished pattern
still carried onward with the revolving former-carriers until it is delivered at 8 at
which point the retracting cams L L will have completely withdrawn the formers
clear of the finished pattern. In this example I have adopted a modified arrange-
ment for operating the tappets E, E¹, it being shewn in the drawings as applied to
the tappet E but it will be understood that the parts are to be duplicated a similar
series of devices being used for operating the tappet E¹. The lever G is a double
armed one being pivotted at g and carrying the tappet E at one end whilst its
other end is acted upon by a grooved barrel cam H, the two cams H, H¹ for
operating the two tappets E, E being secured on the same shaft P as carries the
cam or wiper O for actuating the guide N.
The former carriers may receive motion from the cylinder by means of pins
carried on the cylinder engaging in slots in the former-carriers.
I have not thought it necessary to illustrate the employment of the first part of
my invention in cases where the formers are carried by a chain or rack as it is
obvious that it will differ from the arrangements shewn in the drawings and
herein before described in immaterial details only which may readily be supplied by
those skilled in the art to which this invention relates. Neither have I considered
it desirable to illustrate the use of a wheel, wheel segment or curved plate in
substitution for the eccentric employed in combination with the flanged cylinder,
as this equivalent arrangement will be perfectly understood from the description of
the nature and objects of my invention and the mode of carrying out the same
herein before given without further explanation although it may be mentioned that
the trapping or pressing roller may itself be made hollow and heated where it is
inconvenient to apply beat to the wheel, wheel segment or curved plate.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
Invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is
1st The mode or method of operating the "formers" in machinery or apparatus
for the manufacture of plaited or goffered frilling, ruebing or trimming, of a form

page_text: approximating to a horizontal or vertical zig-zag, which consists in operating cach
of the formers singly or separately, substantially as herein before described.
2nd In machinery or apparatus for the purpose herein set forth, the combination
with annular former-carriers, of a pressure supporting body which shall be in
contact with the bottom of the formers at the part where the process of trapping
or pressing takes place, but shall be clear of or separated from the bottom of the
formers at the part where the feeding is required to be effected, substantially as
hereinbefore described.
3rd In machinery or apparatus for the purpose herein set forth, the employment
of a stationary eccentric or eccentrics interposed between the external periphery of
a pressure-supporting cylinder and the internal periphery of annular foriner-carriers
substantially as herein before described.