IMPROVEMENTS IN BOOTS AND SHOES
Year: 1878

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Morgan-Brown, of the Firm of Brandon and
Morgan-Brown, Engineers and Patent Agents, of 38, Southampton Buildings,
London, and 1, Rue Laffitte, Paris, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN
BOOTS AND SHOES." A communication from abroad by Jesse Willians Hatch,
of Rochester, Munroe County, New York, United States of America, and Albert
Van Wagener, of Boston, Massachusetts, United States of America.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Morgan-Brown at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 21st August 1878.
WILLIAM MORGAN-BROWN, of the Firm of Brandon and Morgan-Brown, Engineers
and Patent Agents, of 38, Southampton Buildings, London, and 1, Rue Laffitte,
Paris. "IMPROVEMENTS IN BOOTS AND SHOES." [A communication from abroad
by Jesse Williams Hatch, of Rochester, Munroe County, New York, United States
of America, and Albert Van Wagener, of Boston, Massachusetts, United States of
America.]
This Invention of improvements in boots and shoes relates to boots and shoes
such as commonly made on sewing machines.
The Invention consists in the combination in a boot or shoe of a permanent or
main inner sole, an upper and an outer sole extended beyond the inner sole and toe
of the upper, the stitches uniting the outer sole and upper about the toe of the shoe
not extending through the inner sole.
Also in the combination in a boot or shoe of a permanent or main inner sole,
made narrower and shorter than the outer sole from its shank forward, the stitches
uniting the outer sole and upper, running off the inner sole from, at, or near its
shank about the ball and toe of the shoe.
Also in a permanent inner sole reduced in width and length in front of the shank,
as herein-after described, in combination an outer sole and upper united together in
front of the shank by stitches passing only into the upper, outside the edge of the

page_text: inner sole, and at the shank and backward by stitches passing through the outsole,
upper, and inner sole..
Also in a boot or shoe a supplemental inner sole extended across the face of the
main inner sole, and connected with the outer sole and upper by the same stitches
which unite the outer sole and upper, the supplemental inner sole acting to retain
the main sole in place.
Also a boot or shoe composed of an outer sole, an upper supplemental inner sole,
and main inner sole, stitched together by stitches which pass through the outer sole,
upper, and supplemental inner sole, but which at the front or toe part of the shoe
pass outside the edge of the main inner sole.
Also in a boot or shoe an outer sole, upper inner sole, inner sole, welt, and sup-
plemental inner sole, the upper, outer sole, inner sole, welt, and supplemental inner
sole being united by the same fastening devices extending through all of them.
In sewed shoes, such as now commonly made on sewing machines, the stitches
uniting the outer sole and upper extend through the inner sole entirely about the
shoe. Shoes so constructed are considered objectionable in the first place because
the soles so united make the shoes stiff and rigid at the soles; secondly, because the
soles when bent move the one over the other at the point where the stitches connect
them, thereby cutting the thread, and causing the sole to rip or gap about the ball;
and, thirdly, because the inner sole of a size substantially that of the outer sole,
projects beyond the stitches and so backs up or holds the upper just above and
about the edge of the outer sole, that blows against the toe of the upper are received
against the edge of the inner sole, thereby cutting the outer sole. This last
objection has been overcome by the use of shoe tips, but they are unsightly and
objectionable.
In the ordinary sewed shoe of the class herein referred to the stitches passing
through the outer sole, upper, and inner sole are so far back from the bend or angle
of the upper, where it comes in contact with the outer sole, that it is not practical to
further extend the outer sole to serve the purpose of a shoe tip or guard, for if the
outer sole was so extended it would not be properly supported next the bent portion
of the upper, and would drop or sag down.
In this Invention the inner sole is made narrower or shorter, or both narrower
and shorter from the shank forward than is the outer sole, and the stitches uniting
the outer sole and upper are run off said narrowed or shorter portions.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said William Morgan-Brown in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
20th February 1879.
WILLIAM MORGAN-BROWN, of the Firm of Brandon and Morgan-Brown,
Engineers and Patent Agents, of 38, Southampton Buildings, London, and 1, Rue
Laffitte, Paris. "IMPROVEMENTS IN BOOTS. AND SHOES." A communication from
abroad by Jesse Williams Hatch, of Rochester, Munroe County, New York, United
States of America, and Albert Van Wagener, of Boston, Massachusetts, United
States of America.
This Invention of improvements in boots and shoes relates to boots and shoes
such as commonly made on sewing machines.
The Invention consists in the combination in a boot or shoe of a permanent or
main inner sole, an upper, and an outer sole extended beyond the inner sole and
toe of the upper, the stitches uniting the outer sole and upper about the toe of the
shoe, not extending through the inner sole.
Also in the combination in a boot or shoe of a permanent or main inner sole
nade narrower and shorter than the outer sole from its shank forward, the
stitches uniting the outer sole and upper, running off the inner sole from, at or near
its shank about the ball and toe of the shoe.
Also in a permanent inner sole reduced in width and length in front of the
shank, as herein-after described, in combination with an outer sole and upper united
together in front of the shank by stitches passing only into the upper outside the
edge into the inner sole, and at the shank and backward by stitches passing through
the outsole, upper, and inner sole.
Also in a boot or shoe a supplemental inner sole extended across the face of the
main inner sole, and connected with the outer sole and upper by the same stitches
which unite the outer sole and upper, the supplemental inner sole acting to retain
the main sole in place.
Also a boot or shoe composed of an outer sole, an upper supplemental inner sole,.
and main inner sole stitched together by stitches which pass through the outer sole,
upper, and supplemental inner sole, but which at the front or toe part of the shoe
pass outside the edge of the main inner sole.
Also in a boot or shoe an outer sole, upper, inner sole, inner sole welt, and
supplemental inner sole, the upper, outer sole, inner sole welt, and supplemental
inner sole being united by the same fastening devices extending through all of
them..
In sewed shoes, such as now commonly made on sewing machines, the stitches
uniting the outer sole and upper extend through the inner sole entirely about the
shoe. Shoes so constructed are considered objectionable, in the first place, because
the soles so united make the shoes stiff and rigid at the soles; secondly, because the
soles when bent move the one over the other at the point where the stitches connect
them, thereby cutting the thread, and causing the sole to rip or gap about the ball;
and, thirdly, because the inner sole of a size substantially that of the outer sole
projects beyond the stitches, and so backs up or holds the upper just above and
about the edge of the under sole, that blows against the toes of the upper are
received against the edge of the inner sole, thereby cutting the outer sole. This
last objection has been overcome by the use of shoe tips, but they are unsightly and
objectionable.
In the ordinary sewed shoe of the class herein referred to the stitches passing
through the outer sole, upper, and inner sole are so far back from the bend or angle
of the upper, where it comes in contact with the outer sole, that it is not practical
to further extend the outer sole to serve the purpose of a shoe tip or guard, for if
the outer sole was so extended it would not be properly supported next the bent
portion of the upper, and would drop or sag down.
;

page_text: and shorter from the shank forward than is the outer sole, and the stitches uniting
the outer sole and upper are run off said narrowed or shorter portions.
In the Drawings accompanying and forming part of this Specification,-
Figure 1 represents in side elevation a child's shoe made in accordance with this
Invention.
Figure 2, a horizontal section taken on the line x, x, Figure 1.
Figure 3, a cross section of Figure 2 on an enlarged scale.
Figure 4, a longitudinal section of this improved shoe.
Figure 5, a like section of an ordinary sewed shoe.
Figure 6, an under side view of a main inner sole shortened and made narrow
from the shank forward, it being placed upon the supplemental inner sole.
Figure 7, a like view of a main inner sole made smaller than the outer sole about
the heel, as well as about the toe and ball of the sole.
Figure 8; an under side view and section of a main and supplemental inner sole
and inner sole welt.
The upper a and outer sole b may be of any usual material or shape. The main
inner sole c, of leather or leather board, is shown in Figures 2 to 6, as made
shorter and narrower than the outer sole from the shank forward, but the supple-
mental inner sole d, preferably of fibrous material or thin soft leather, is made
larger than the main inner sole. The stitches e, which unite the outer sole and
upper, pass outside the main inner sole at the points where the said main inner
sole is made narrower or shorter than the outer sole, and at such portions the main
inuer sole and outer sole unconnected are left flexible, and the stitches not being
subjected to the usual strain as when the inner and outer soles are connected with
the upper by the same stitches, are prevented from ripping about the ball of the
foot where the sole is most bent in wear.
At the shank of the shoe and about the heel the stitches will preferably extend
through the main inner sole, outer sole, and upper, for there it is desired to make
the sole or shoe stiff and rigid.
To make a shoe more flexible at the shank the entire main inner sole may be
made narrower than the outer sole, as in Figure 7.
To afford additional means beyond the lasting tacks for holding the narrowed.
and shortened main inner sole in place, and prevent it becoming loose, a supple-
mental inner sole is placed at one side of it, and extended to the upper, where the
stitches e pass through it.
In Figures 2, 3, 6, 7, this supplemental inner sole is adapted to extend over the
top of the main inner sole.
In Figure 8 the narrowed and shortened inner sole has placed about its edge an
inner sole welt f, of some soft flexible material, and the stitches uniting the outer
sole, upper, and supplemental inner sole also extend through the inner sole welt.
This welt and supplemental inner sole form a cushion about the edge of the main
inner sole and between it and the upper to support the latter and hold it out, as is
desirable when the upper is made of a very soft and thin material.
In Figure 5, which shows a shoe of common construction, it will be noticed that
the outer sole g and the inner sole h are of substantially the same length, and that
the upper h readily receives blows, as when the toe strikes a stone, and the edge
of the inner sole being hard, the upper is easily cut through.
Referring to Figure 4, it will be seen that the upper at the toe is connected with
the outer sole considerably beyond the edge of the inner sole, that the outer sole is
made to project forward beyond the upper so as to prevent the upper from striking
a stone at or near its connection with the outer sole, thus enabling it to serve the
purpose of a tip or guard, and that a blow received by the upper cannot throw said
upper back against the edge of the inner sole so as to cut it.
The ordinary lasting tacks necessarily used in preparing the shoe for the sewing
machine horn embed their clinched points in the supplemental inner sole, and lessen
the wear upon the stockings.

page_text: The supplemental inner sole may be pasted by rubber or other paste to the main
inner sole, or to it and the inner sole welt, and if of fibrous material a sock sole k of
kid or soft leather may be pasted upon its upper side when it is desired to make a
shoe perfectly smooth for contact with the stocking.
A kid or thin leather sole will adhere very firmly to a fibrous sole by paste alone,
and they will not separate as the shoe is worn.
When lasting this improved shoe the supplemental inner sole, if used as it pre-
ferably will be, is placed next the bottom of the last; the main inner sole is then
placed upon it, then the edges of the upper are made to overlap the edge of the
inner sole far enough to be lasted, and outside the upper is added the outer sole,
and the parts so arranged are united by sewing machine stitches, the latter running
off or not passing through the main inner sole about the ball of the foot and the toe,
and in some cases entirely off the main inner sole.
The supplemental inner sole holds down and covers the edge of the main inner
sole, and the inner sole welt, if employed, also serves to protect the corner of the
main inner sole from being felt by the foot.
Having now described and particularly set forth the nature of the said Invention,
and the manner of carrying the same into effect, I would have it understood that
what I claim is,―
First. In a boot or shoe a permanent or main inner sole and upper, combined
with an outer sole extended in length beyond the said inner sole and toe of the
upper, the stitches uniting the said outer sole and upper about the toe not extending
through the toe of the inner sole, substantially as described.
Second. In a boot or shoe a permanent inner sole made narrower and shorter
than the outer sole from its shank forward, combined with an upper and an outer
sole, the stitches uniting the outer sole and upper running off the inner sole from
at or near its shank, about the ball and toe of the shoe, substantially as
described.
Third. A permanent inner sole reduced in width and length in front of the shank,
as described, in combination with an outer sole and upper, united together in front
of the shank by stitches passing only into the upper outside the edge of the inner
sole, and at the shank and backward by stitches passing through the outer sole,
upper, and inner sole, all substantially as described.
Fourth. In a boot or shoe a supplemental inner sole extended across the face of
the main inner sole, and connected with the outer sole and upper by the same
stitches which unite the outer sole and upper, the supplemental inner sole acting to
retain the main inner sole in place, substantially as described.
Fifth. A boot or shoe composed of an outer sole, an upper, supplemental inner
sole, and main inner sole, stitched together by stitches which pass through the
outer sole, upper, and supplemental inner sole, but which at the front or toe part of
the shoe pass outside the edge of the main inner sole, substantially as described.
Sixth. In a boot or shoe an outer sole, upper, inner sole, inner sole welt, and sup-
plemental inner sole, the upper, outer sole, inner sole welt, and supplemental inner
sole being united by the same fastening devices extending through all of them,
substantially as described.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Morgan-Brown, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Twentieth day of February, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and seventy-nine
WILLIAM MORGAN-BROWN. (L.S.)