Improvements in or relating to the Securing of Uppers to the Insoles or Soles of Boots and Shoes.
Year: 1896

page_text: PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in or relating to the Securing of Uppers to the Insoles
or Soles of Boots and Shoes.
I JOHN KEATS of Bagnall near Stoke-on-Trent, Staffordshire, Mechanical Engineer,
do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
The object of this invention is to facilitate the manufacture of boots and shoes of
a high-class character in point of form and construction, and whether made by hand
or machinery.
My improved boots and shoes I construct of leather, felt, or other suitable materials,
and instead of channelling the sole or insole, as heretofore, to receive the stitches,
I shape round the contour or edge of the sole (on the flesh side, when leather is
used) a rib to receive the stitches which are to secure the upper to the sole, or, in
the case of welt boots, the welt also. This contour rib on the sole or insole serves
as a guide in lasting the upper. This advantage is due to the rib being made a
true distance from the edge of the sole, and high enough for the operator to place
the edge of his upper against, and on a level therewith. The rib also serves as a wall
for the workman to pull his upper up to, and secure in its proper position; the
necessity is therefore in great part removed for employing highly skilled labour in
effecting the operation of lasting.
I produce the raised ribs on the sole (when made of felt) as follows:-
I rub onto the sole, on that side where I require the guiding rib, sufficient starch
or thin paste to saturate that part, and when dry, I mould or otherwise shape, by
means of pressure, the guiding rib, using for that purpose suitably shaped heated
irons or tools.
When preparing pump soles or inner soles of leather, I moisten the leather, as a
shoemaker usually does, before working up the same, but in lieu of channelling or
cutting a groove, as is usual, I slit the edge of the sole, or press a wedge-shaped
tool into the edge horizontally, and against a cone-shaped tool, which presses vertically,
and bend up the flesh side thereof, which I mould or shape into a guiding rib. By
this means I so compress that part of the flesh side of the leather where the rib
occurs, that it becomes more solid and compact than the rest.of the sole. Thus, when
stitches are put into the rib or guide line, to secure the upper to the sole, or (it may
be) the upper and welt to the inner sole, the seam becomes firm and practically
waterproof, because, when exposed in wear to moisture, that part of the leather
forming the rib naturally expands, and tightens the stitches, whether of hand or
machine sewing.
Dated this 3rd day of July 1806

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in or relating to the Securing of Uppers to the Insoles
or Soles of Boots and Shoes.
I, JOHN KEATS of Bagnall near Stoke-on-Trent, Staffordshire, Mechanical'
Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the-
same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement :-
The object of this invention is to facilitate the manufacture of boots and shoes of
a high-class character in point of form and construction, and whether made by hand-
or machinery.
The soles of my improved boots and shoes I construct of leather, felt, or other
suitable material, and instead of channelling the sole or insole, as heretofore, to
receive the stitches, I shape round the contour or edge of the sole (on the flesh side,
when leather is used) a rib to receive the stitches which are to secure the upper to
the sole, or, in the case of welt boots, the welt also. This contour rib on the sole or
insole serves as a guide in lasting the upper. This advantage is due to the rib
being made a true distance from the edge of the sole, and high enough for the
operator to place the edge of his upper against, and on a level therewith. The rib
also serves as a wall for the workman to pull his upper up to, and secure in its proper
position; the necessity is therefore, in great part removed for employing highly
skilled labour in effecting the operation of lasting.
I produce the raised ribs on the sole (when made of felt) as follows:-
I rub into the sole, on that side where I require the guiding rib, sufficient starch
or thin paste to saturate that part, and, when dry, I mould or otherwise shape by
means of pressure, the guiding rib, using for that purpose suitably shaped heated
irons or tools.
When preparing pump soles, or inner soles of leather, I moisten the leather, as a
shoemaker usually does, before working the same, but in lieu of channelling or cutting
a groove, as is usual, I slit the sole at or near its edge (or press a wedge-shaped
tool into the edge horizontally and against a coned shaped tool, which presses
vertically), and bend up the flesh side thereof, which I mould or shape into a
guiding rib. By this means I so compress that part of the flesh side of the leather
where the rib occurs, that it becomes more solid and compact than the rest of the
sole. Thus, when stitches are put into the rib or guide line, to secure the upper to
the sole, or (it may be) the upper and welt to the inner sole, the seam becomes firm
and practically waterproof, because, when exposed in wear to moisture, that part of
the leather forming the rib naturally expands and tightens the stitches, whether of
hand or machine sewing.
Referring now to the accompanying drawing, the compressed felt sole is shewn in
Figures 1 to 4.
Figure 1 is a cross section of an ordinary felt sole before being operated upon.
Figure 2 shews the half sole in perspective view, with the rib a', produced by
pressure, running round the sole.
In the cross section, Figure 3, the felt sole a is shewn as being stitched with
stitches c, by its rib, to the upper b, over a last d.
Figure 4 shews a modification in the form of rib a', formed near the edge of the
felt sole, which kind of rib is preferred when it is desired to sew a welt to the rib
of the felt sole, for the attachment of a leather sole to the shoe.
Figure 5 shews a leather sole in cross section, before treatment.
Figure 6 shews the rib formed on the edge of the pump sole by pressure, and
Figure 7 shews the connection of the pump sole a with the upper 6 by the seam,
while the upper is on the last d.

page_text: Figure 8 shews, in cross section, the form of inner leather sole to be used with
a welt, the edges being chamfered, and a horizontal slit made in the chamfered part,
to facilitate the shaping of the rib.
Figure 9 shews the inner sole as moulded with a rib, to receive the welt and
upper.
Figure 10 shews the connection of the insole a with the upper and welt e on the
last d; and
Figure 11 is a section of a boot or shoe made on my improved system, and
completed according to this invention.
The ribbed insole a is connected to the upper band welt e by stitches e passing-
through the rib and through these parts; and to the welt e is attached, in the usual
manner, the outer sole f. g is a filling piece laid between the insole a and outer--
sole f. By the examination of this figure, it will be readily understood how my
system of manufacture conduces to the solidity and waterproof character of boots
and shoes, the seam being firm and undeviating from the line described by the
raised rib.
For forming the rib on or near the edge of a leather sole, the tongs shewn in.
Figure 12 may be used. The gripping surfaces of these tongs are so disposed that
they grip the leather over its edge with their rounded-off ends, while another lever-
like jaw, pivotted on one of the jaws of the tongs, is pressed direct against the edge
of the insole, to force up the rib from that portion projecting inwards between
the jaws.
It will be understood that any desired sectional form of rib may be obtained, by
suitably modifying the shape of the gripping surfaces.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I wish it to be understood
that I do not claim any form of tool, apparatus, or machine to produce the said gaide
lines or ribs, but the iilustration Figure 12 shews a form of pincers which I prefer to
employ for producing the guide line or rib as explained; but what I do claim is :-
The use, in the manufacture of boots and shoes. of soles ribbed as above explained,..
for the purpose of facilitating the assembling of the parts, and securing firm and
practically watertight seams, whether the goods are made up by hand or machinery.
Dated this 1st day of April 1897.
NEWTON & SON,
Agents for the Applicant..