Improvements in Apparatus for Taking Measurements for Garments.
Year: 1892

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Apparatus for Taking Measurements for
Garments.
A communication by JOHN HENRY RENSEN, of No. 334, North Fourth Street, in
the City and County of Philadelphia, and State of Pennsylvania, United
States of America, Tailor.
I, WILLIAM PHILLIPS THOMPSON F.C.S. M.I.M.E., of the Agency for
Foreign Patent Solicitors, 6 Lord Street, Liverpool, and 6, Bank Street,
Manchester both in the County of Lancaster and 323 High Holborn, in the
County of Middlesex, Civil Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This invention relates to an apparatus whereby the measurements requisite to the
proper cutting and fitting of a garment may be taken with facility and accuracy.
The construction and operation of the device will be best understood from the
following description with reference to the annexed drawings, of which-
Figure 1 is a perspective view of the device, and,
Figure 2 a view of the same as in actual use.
A represents a horizontal flexible band, preferably of thin brass, one side of which
is graduated to a scale of inches or other standard system of measurement.
BC are two vertical arms mounted upon the band A at suitable points in the
length of the latter. The arm B is fixed firmly to the band A by riveting or
otherwise, but the other arm C is so applied to the band as to be horizontally-
adjustable thereon, that is to say, the arm C is fastened to a small plate c, which is
provided with edge-lips c', that engage the edges of the horizontal band. The
arins B C project slightly above the upper edge of the band A, and these up-pro-
jecting portions are provided with longitudinally extensible angular sections, B¹, C¹,
respectively. In the present instance, these sections are each adjustably connected
with the vertical arm by providing the vertical member of the section with an eye 1,
through which the end of the arm extends, and with guide lips or flanges 2, that
take against the sides of the arm. The parts are so fitted together, that the friction
maintains the sections in any position to which they may be set. The upper portion
of each arm is provided with a series of studs or hooks 3, that are adapted to engage
the edge of the section eye 1, and thereby prevent upward movement of the section
when the apparatus is in service, as hereinafter explained.
The outer faces of those portions of the arms B˚C that depend below the band A
are graduated similarly to the latter, as shown in Figure 2.
D represents a short vertical arm that is adjustably mounted on the horizontal
band A just in rear of the fixed arm B, so that it, the arm D, may be readily moved
toward or away from the arm B. This adjustable arm D in the present case is
fixed to a plate or strip d, one end of which is provided with a guide-piece d' that
engages the edges of the band A, the other or free end of said plate or strip
extending freely through a guide-plate d' (Figure 2) affixed to the arm B. Thus,
the arm D may be adjusted within the range of movement of its supporting strip d.
Rising from the band A, at a suitable point in rear of the adjustable arm D, is a fixed
short arm E, which is provided with an extensible section e that is maintained in
place by the engaging guide-lips e¹.
The outer face of the arm E has thereon a scale of inches, whereby the extent of
vertical adjustment of the section may be readily determined. Supported in a
suitable guide-piece e³ on the upper end of this section is a horizontal band F, one
end of which is secured to a vertical slide-piece fitted to the adjustable arm D.
Hence, the band F may be raised and lowered in respect to the main band A.

page_text: The outer face of band F is provided with a scale of inches measuring from the
arm D, as illustrated in Figure 1.
G represents a thin vertical strip that is fastened to the adjustable section of the
arm B, and G is a similar strip that is secured to a slide-piece y mounted on the
band A in relation to said arm. The upper ends of these arms are flexible, so that
they may be brought towards each other, one of them being provided with a suitable
device, as g', whereby their meeting ends may be detachably connected.
The top sections of the vertical arms B C are provided with straps H, and the
band A is provided, at suitable points with hooks, or equivalent devices, with
which these straps are adapted to be engaged, as hereinafter stated. One of the
ends of the band A is equipped with a flanged plate a, with which the other end
may be engaged when the apparatus is in service.
The foregoing is a general description of the preferred construction of this
invention.
Its operation is as follows:-
The band A is placed around the body of the person to be measured, its ends
being brought in front of the person and fastened together. The position of the
band should be such that it will lie directly under the armpits, and the upper
portion of the fixed member B take against the arm of the individual. The
adjustable member C is then moved against his other arm. The angular sections B'C'
are next set vertically to bear upon the shoulders. This done, the straps H are
thrown over his shoulders and fastened to the hooks h on the back of the band A,
thereby preventing displacement of the device. The small hooks 3, before referred
to, prevent vertical displacement of the angular sections when the straps H are
drawn upon in the adjustment. It will be noticed that one end of the band A is
provided with a strap I, and the other end with a hook i. These are used to
connect the ends of the band when the dimensions of the body of the person being
measured exceed the length of the band A. The latter, ordinarily, will be about
45 inches long.
Continuing the operation, the adjustable member D is moved against the back
of that arm with which the member C is in contact. Now, as the scale on the
band A is started from the member C, it will be obvious that, by observing
the position of the member D in respect to said scale, the required width of the
arm-hole in the garment may be accurately determined. The strips G G are
then moved toward each other so as to meet on the top of the shoulder;
whereupon they are fastened together. This being done, the horizontal member F
is adjusted vertically. For a person of ordinary build, this member F is adjusted
about 3 or 3 inches above the band A, varying either way, however, under
different conditions. The parts having thus been adjusted, the operator measures,
by means of a tape measure, the distance from the highest point the garment
is to be cut, in the middle of the back, to a predetermined point on the upper
section of the member B. He then measures the distance from this point x,
over the shoulder, to the point where the horizontal member F is connected
with the adjustable member D. He then measures from a fixed point, y,
adjacent to the point x, to the member F, the tape crossing the thickest part
of the shoulder blade. On a well-formed person, the tape in this measurement
will meet the member F at a point about 4 or 5 inches from the member D.
This latter measurement on the member F must be noted down with the other
or shoulder measurement. The operator next measures from the highest point
in the middle of the back straight down to the horizontal member F; then from
the same point to the band A; then from the same point to the tail of the coat,
or just above the hips, and then from the same point to the bottom of the
garment. He then marks down, as it appears on the scale of the member F,
the distance from the member D to the middle of the back. Continuing, he
observes the backward distance between the vertical members B C, as indicated
by the scale on the band A, and, by dividing this measurement in half, he has
the accurate distance between the front of the arm hole and the middle of the

page_text: back. He then notes the point on the scale of the member F where the strip G¹
intersects the latter, and proceeds to measure the distance from a fixed point,
marked, on the plate d, up to the neck or highest part of the garment, but
about 3 or 4 inches inside or to the left of the highest central point above
referred to. The operator then takes the measurement between the members BC
around the back at a point just above the hips; proceeding likewise across the
seat, and as many other portions of the body as he may deem advisable. Care
must be taken, however, to mark down the distance from the arm holes to the
lines where these last described measurements are taken; the graduated vertical
members BC permitting this to be done with ease and despatch. The operator
then measures from the point at which the horizontal member F is connected
with the vertical member D down to the desired length of the sleeve. This
completes the measuring on the back part of the person. Then, by aid of a
point, located on the fixed vertical member B where the same crosses the
band A, as shown in Figure 2, together with the vertical members B C, and
their scales, the operator may readily take all the measurements proper and
necessary to the delineation of a pattern for the front of the garment.
It will be obvious that, by means of this improved apparatus, all the measurements
above enumerated may be taken by a person of average intelligence; and that, with
these measurements, he may, by keeping in view the relative positions of the several
parts of the device, plan with facility and accuracy a pattern or patterns for the
desired garment.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, as communicated to me.
by my foreign correspondent, I declare that what I claim is :-
1. The combination of the main horizontal band, two vertical arms thereon, one
of which is fixed and the other adjustable, and a short vertical arm mounted upon
the horizontal band in rear of the fixed arm, and adjustable in respect thereto,
substantially as described.
2. The combination of the main horizontal band, a main vertical arm thereon, an
angular section extensible on said arm, and a short vertical arm in rear of the said
main vertical arm and adjustable in respect thereto, substantially as described.
3. The combination of the main horizontal band, a main vertical arm thereon, a
horizontal adjustable arm in the rear of said vertical arm, and a vertically movable
horizontal band mounted in respect to said adjustable arm, substantially as
described.
4. The combination of the main horizontal band, the vertical arm, its extensible
angular section, the flexible member G, the horizontally-adjustable arm D, the
vertically-adjustable band F, and the sliding member G', substantially as described.
5. The combination of the main horizontal band, provided with means whereby
its ends may be connected, the two main vertical arms, the shoulder straps connected
therewith, and the fastening devices on the horizontal band with which said straps
may be engaged, substantially as described.
Dated this 7th day of January 1892.
WM. P. THOMPSON & Co.,
Agents for the Applicant.