IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTICLES OF JEWELLERY
Year: 1867

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Richard Lowe, of Birmingham, in the County of
Warwick, Jeweller, and John Taylor, of Birmingham, aforesaid, Jeweller,
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Richard Lowe and
John Taylor at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with their
Petition, on the 13th September 1867.
We, RICHARD LOWE, of Birmingham, in the County of Warwick, Jeweller,
and JOHN TAYLOR, of Birmingham, aforesaid, Jeweller, do hereby declare the
nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF
ARTICLES OF JEWELLERY," to be as follows:-
In the ordinary method of manufacturing articles of jewellery the body or
foundation of the article is made of sheet gold or other metal or alloy, to which
the required shape is given by dies or other tools.
In making articles of jewellery according to our Invention we form the
body or foundation of the article of wire gauze, the said wire gauze being
made of gold wire, or wire of other metal or alloy. The said wire gauze
is readily fashioned into the required shape and the figure of the article is
secured by an edging made of a piece of open jointed tubing of small diameter.
The said open jointed tubing is bent round the edge of the article, the edge
of the wire gauze entering the open joint of the tubing. By soldering the
edging is fixed to the wire gauze, and the article is thereby made rigid.

page_text: Besides making the body or foundation of the articles of jewellery of wire
gauze such of the ornamental parts attached to the body or foundation as
have plane surfaces.may be made of wire gauze with an edging of open jointed
tubing as already described. In place of the edging of open jointed tubing
an edging of wire having a slit running along its whole length may be
employed.
Articles of jewellery made according to our Invention may be finished by
soldering, or otherwise attaching thereto ornamental parts made of wire
.gauze, or made by stamping or raising in dies from sheet metal, or fashoned
by hand.
The articles of jewellery to the manufacture of which our Invention is
specially applicable are ear-rings, brooches, bracelets, and necklets; but our
Invention is applicable to the manufacture of articles of jewellery in general.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Richard Lowe and John Taylor in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 10th March 1868.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, RICHARD
Lowe, of Birmingham, in the County of Warwick, Jeweller, and JOHN TAYLOR,
of Birmingham, aforesaid, Jeweller, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Thirteenth day of September, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-seven, in the thirty-first year
of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant
unto us, the said Richard Lowe and John Taylor, Her special license that
we, the said Richard Lowe and John Taylor, our executors, administrators,
and assigns, or such others as we, the said Richard Lowe and John
Taylor, our executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during
the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel
Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANU-
FACTURE OF ARTICLES OF JEWELLERY," upon the condition (amongst others) that
we, the said Richard Lowe and John Taylor, our executors or administrators,
by an instrument in writing under our or their hands and seals, or under the
hand and seal of one of us or them, should particularly describe and ascertain
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be

page_text: performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office
within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said
Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said John Taylor, on behalf of myself and
the said Richard Lowe, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention,
and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described
and ascertained in and by the following statement thereof, that is to say:-
In the ordinary method of manufacturing articles of jewellery the body or
foundation of the article is made of sheet gold or other metal or alloy, to which
the required shape is given by dies or other tools.
In making articles of jewellery according to our Invention we form the body'
or foundation of the article of wire gauze, the said wire gauze being made of
gold. wire, or wire of other metal or alloy. The said wire gauze is readily
fashioned into the required shape, and the figure of the article is secured by
an edging made of a piece of open jointed tubing of small diameter. The said
open jointed tubing is bent round the edge of the article, the edge of the wire
gauze entering the open joint of the tubing. By soldering the edging is fixed
to the wire gauze and the article is thereby made rigid. Besides making the
gauze, such of the
body or foundation of the articles of jewellery of wire
ornamental parts attached to the body or foundation as have plane surfaces
may be made of wire gauze with an edging of open jointed tubing as already
described. In place of the edging of open jointed tubing an edging of
wire having a slit running along its whole length or a flat edging may be
employed.
Articles of jewellery made according to our Invention may be finished by
soldering, or otherwise attaching thereto ornamental parts made of wire
gauze, or made by stamping or raising in dies from sheet metal or fashioned
by hand.
The articles of jewellery to the manufacture of which our Invention. is
specially applicable are ear-rings, brooches, bracelets, and necklets; but our
Invention is applicable to the manufacture of articles of jewellery in general..
Having explained the nature of our Invention we will proceed to describe,
with reference to the accompanying Drawing, the manner in which the same
is to be performed.
Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5 represent elevations of ear-rings made according
to our Invention.
Figure 6 represents in front elevation, and Figure 7 in back elevation a
brooch made according to our Invention.
In the said Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, and 7 the body or foundation of wire

page_text: gauze is marked a. In the ear-ring Figure 2, and brooch Figures 6 and 7,
the wire gauze body a is fashioned of the required shape by dies or by bending,
and the figure of the article is preserved by the edging 6 made of open jointed
tubing. The said open jointed tubing 6 is bent round the edge of the wire
gauze body, the said wire gauze entering the open joint of the tubing. The
edging described is secured to the wire gauze by soldering. The body of the
articles is thereby made rigid. The ornamental pendent c of the brooch is
made of wire gauze with an edging similar to the body. In the ear-ring,
Figure 3, the body or foundation of wire gauze is soldered to a sheet metal
back, the junction of the sheet metal with the wire gauze being concealed by
the ornamental beading or edging & being soldered to the said wire gauze.
The wire gauze body of the ear-ring, Figure 3, is shown separately at e in
Figure 8. The body of the ear-ring, Figure 1, is made of a conical tube of
wire gauze, the junction of the tube being concealed by an ornamental strip
The cap portion of this ear-ring is stamped from a flat piece of
wire gauze, as represented at fin Figure 8, and its edge and the top edge of
the body are finished by soldering an ornamental edging thereto. The ear-
ring, Figure 4, is a reversible one, that is, one side a is made of wire gauze,
and the other side g is made of sheet metal, the junction of the two halves
being concealed by the ornamental strip h soldered to the ear-ring. The ear-
ring, Figure 5, is partly composed of sheet metal and partly of wire gauze as
represented.
of metal.
In the several Figures of the Drawing the wire gauze bodies or foundations
are finished by the addition thereto of ornamental parts either of sheet metal or
of wire gauze, the said ornamental parts being soldered or otherwise attached
to the bodies; these ornamental parts vary with the particular ornamental
design of the article to be manufactured, and the ornamental edging also varies
with the article to be manufactured. Examples of ornamental edgings are
represented in Figure 8.
Figure 9 represents an unfinished body of an ear-ring, the edge of the wire
gauze body a of which is provided with an edging of open jointed tubing b; an
edge view and section of the said edging is represented in Figure 10. One
.edge of the body a, Figure 9, is represented separated from the edging 6, and
the central cut out portion is also represented without an edging. Instead of
the edging of open jointed tubing an edging of wire having a slit running
along its whole length may be employed.
Although we prefer to ornament the wire gauze bodies or foundations of the
articles in the manner illustrated in the Drawing, yet the said bodies or
foundations may be left plain.

page_text: In making other articles of jewellery according to our Invention we
proceed in the manner described with reference to ear-rings and brooches,
that is, we shape by bending or by dies and pressure the body or foundation
of wire gauze, and secure its edge by an ornamental, hollow, or flat edging,
and finish the body when required by attaching ornamental parts thereto made
of wire gauze or sheet metal, or ornamental or other wire.
Having now described the nature of our Invention, and the manner in
which the same is to be performed, we wish it to be understood that we do
not limit ourselves to the precise details herein described and illustrated,
as the same may be varied without departing from the nature of our Invention ;
but we claim as our Invention the improvements in the manufacture of articles
of jewellery herein-before described and illustrated in the accompanying
Drawing, that is to say, making the bodies or foundations, or portions of
the bodies or foundations of articles of jewellery of wire gauze, and finishing
and when required ornamenting the said bodies or foundations, substantially
as described and illustrated.
Also making parts to be applied to the ornamenting of articles of jewellery
of wire gauze, substantially as described and illustrated.
In witness whereof, I, the said John Taylor, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Sixth day of March, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and sixty-eight.
Witness,
GEORGE SHAW.
JOHN TAYLOR.
(L.S.)