Improvements in the Method of Manufacturing Italian or Sateen Cloths.
Year: 1887

page_text: Date of Application, 31st Jan., 1887.
Specification Accepted, 1st Mar., 1887.
Improvements in the Method of Manufacturing Italian or
Sateen Cloths.
I, JOE BENN, of the firm of Joseph Benn and Sons, Beck Side Mills, Great Horton,
Bradford, in the County of York, Spinner and Manufacturer, do hereby declare the
nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :—
This invention relates to certain improvements in the manufacture of that class of
fabrics known as Italians or Sateens used for the most part as linings for garments, and
has for its object, the production of cloth having a similar appearance, and if anything,
capable of better wear, at a less cost than when constructed in the manner as hitherto.
I may accomplish my object by weaving the fabric so as to produce any of the
particular designs shewn by the accompanying diagrams, which are respectively
produced by operating with an ordinary heald machine, the healds and warp threads
with nine, eleven, thirteen, and fifteen shafts. I also use thicker weft than has been
the common practice, that is, of lower counts, and therefore cheaper. The weft
hitherto used for the lower qualities of Italians and Sateens will, by my improvements,
be used for the production of the finer qualities, all qualities being further enhanced
by the use of a greater weight of wool made possible by the particular treading or
operation of the heald shafts and warp threads, thus giving to the fabric an additional
capability of resistance to wear and tear.
In order to more clearly understand the manner in which the heald shafts and warp
threads are operated, I will describe the accompanying designs, which will be
understood by persons skilled in the science of weaving, the spaces representing the
threads and the lines the openings between the threads, the vertical spaces representing
the warp threads and the horizontal the weft.
In order to weave a pattern similar to Fig. 1 I use nine shafts, and the following is
a description how the same are raised. For the 1st pick of weft I lift the 5th and
9th shafts; for the 2nd pick the 2nd and 7th for the 3rd the 4th and 9th; for the
4th the 2nd and 6th; for the 5th the 4th and Sth for the 6th the 1st and 6th; for
the 7th the 3rd and 8th; for the Sth the 1st and 5th; for the 9th the 3rd and 7th.
Fig. 2 is the same design reversed, the twill running in the opposite direction, and
has the same number of shafts operated in the following manner.
For the 1st pick of

page_text: weft, I lift the 1st and 5th shafts; for the 2nd pick, the 3rd and 8th; for the 3rd the
1st and Gil; for the 4th, the 4th and 8th for the 5th, the 2nd and 6th ; for the 6th
the 4th and 9th for the 7th the 2nd and 7th; for the 8th the 5th and 9th ; for
the 9th, the 3rd and 7th.
Fig. 3 represents a design of cloth produced by eleven shafts, for the 1st pick I lift
the 6th and 11th shafts; for the 2nd the 3rd and Sth; for the 3rd the 5th and 11th ;
for the 4th the 2nd and 8th; for the 5th the 5th and 10th; for the 6th the 2nd and
7th for the 7th the 4th and 10th for the 8th the 1st and 7th; for the 9th the 4th
and 9th for the 10th the 1st and 6th; for the 11th the 3rd and 9th.
;
Fig. 4 is a representation of the same design reversed, the twill running in the
opposite direction, the same number of shafts being used. For the 1st pick of the
weft I lift the 1st and 6th shafts; for the 2nd the 4th and 9th; for the 3rd the 1st
and 7th for the 4th the 4th and 10th; for the 5th the 2nd and 7th; for the 6th the
5th and 10th for the 7th the 2nd and 8th; for the 8th the 5th and 11th; for the
9th the 3rd and 8th for the 10th the 6th and 11th; for the 11th the 3rd and 9th.
The design illustrated by Fig. 5 is produced by thirteen shafts in the following
manner. For the 1st pick of the weft I lift the 7th and 13th shafts; for the 2nd the
3rd and 10th for the 3rd the 6th and 13th; for the 4th the 3rd and 9th; for the 5th
the 6th and 12th; for the 6th the 2nd and 9th; for the 7th the 5th and 12th; for
the Sth the 2nd and Sth; for the 9th the 5th and 11th; for the 10th the 1st and 8th ;
for the 11th the 4th and 11th; for the 12th the 1st and 7th; and for the 13th the
4th and 10th.
Fig. 6 is a view of the same design reversed, with the twill in the contrary direction,
having the same number of shafts, operated in the following manner. For the 1st
pick of the weft. I lift the 1st and 7th shafts; for the 2nd the 4th and 11th for the
3rd the 1st and 8th; for the 4th the 5th and 11th for the 5th the 2nd and 8th; for
the 6th the 5th and 12th; for the 7th the 2nd and 9th; for the Sth the 6th and 12th ;
for the 9th the 3rd and 9th; for the 10th the 6th and 13th for the 11th the 3rd and
10th for the 12th the 7th and 13th; for the 13th the 4th and 10th.
Fig. 7 is another design woven with fifteen shafts, and for the 1st pick of the weft
I lift the 8th and 15th shafts; for the 2nd the 4th and 11th; for the 3rd the 7th and
15th for the 4th the 3rd and 11th; for the 5th the 7th and 14th; for the 6th the
3rd and 10th for the 7th the 6th and 14th; for the 8th the 2nd and 10th; for
the 9th the 6th and 13th; for the 10th the 2nd and 9th; for the 11th the 5th and
13th for the 12th the 1st and 9th; for the 13th the 5th and 12th; for the 14th the
1st and 8th for the 15th the 4th and 12th.
;
:
Fig. 8 is a design similar to the last, having the same number of shafts, but the
twill running in the opposite direction, the shafts being operated in the following
manner for the 1st pick of the weft, I lift the 1st and Sth shafts; for the 2nd the
5th and 12th for the 3rd the 1st and 9th; for the 4th the 5th and 13th; for the 5th
the 2nd and 9th for the 6th the 6th and 13th; for the 7th the 2nd and 10th for
the 8th the 6th and 14th; for the 9th the 3rd and 10th; for the 10th the 7th and
14th for the 11th the 3rd and 11th; for the 12th the 7th and 15th for the 13th the
4th and 11th; for the 14th the 8th and 15th; for the 15th the 4th and 12th.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of this invention and
in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I claim is:
The construction of Italian or Sateen fabrics by the operation of the heald shafts
and warp threads in the manner shewn and described.