AN IMPROVED BINDING TO BE USED FOR TRIMMING WOOLLEN CLOTH GARMENTS
Year: 1863

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Gustav Köttgen, of Barmen, in the Kingdom of
Prussia, Manufacturer, for the Invention of "AN IMPROVED BINDING TO
BE USED FOR TRIMMING WOOLLEN CLOTH GARMENTS."
Sealed the 18th November, 1863, and dated the 25th May 1863.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Gustav Köttgen at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 25th
May 1863.
I, GUSTAV KÖTTGEN, of Barmen, in the Kingdom of Prussia, Manufacturer,
do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "AN IMPROVED BINDING
TO BE USED FOR TRIMMING WOOLLEN CLOTH GARMENTS," to be as follows:-
Hitherto it has been impossible to trim or bind gentlemen's coats or vests
and ladies' mantles with an exact match, and it has been the greatest difficulty
to mix the binding to look like cloth; by the present Invention the inter-
weaving of a cloth centre and binding border together surmounts this
difficulty, and gives to the garment trimmed an exceedingly neat and novel
appearance; but the great advantage obtained is a good strong binding, which
will not wear out, and will look well as long as the garment with which it is
trimmed. To produce the above effect or advantage by any other means
would require, first, binding with cloth, and then finishing with a binding
braid on each side; but this binding is put on with one row of sewing, either
by hand or by sewing machine. The binding is made in a double shuttle

page_text: jacquard loom, of twenty-four to thirty warps, the first shuttle puts in the
cloth wool once, the loom then changes, and the second shuttle shoots cotton
or thread twice, once through the borders and centre to keep the cloth firm,
and the second time through the borders only; thus there is only one shoot
of wool where there are two of cotton or thread.
The above described method of weaving will produce a cloth centre with
border of " binding," but I wish to reserve to myself the right of weaving a
binding for trimming woollen cloth garments by combining in such binding
alternate strips of woollen cloth, and of the material known as "binding,"
whether of worsted, thread, or other material, or combination of materials, and
whether arranged in a longitudinal, diagonal, or transverse direction, and also
the weaving of a binding for such purposes of woollen cloth with a narrow
edge of thread, silk, or other material.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the Conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Gustav. Köttgen in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
25th November 1863.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, GUSTAV
KÖTTGEN, of Barmen, in the Kingdom of Prussia, Manufacturer, send
greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-fifth day of May, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-three, in the -twenty-sixth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me,
the said Gustav Köttgen, Her special license that I, the said Gustav Köttgen,
my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Gustav
Köttgen, my executors, administrators, or assigns, should at any time agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the
term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise,
and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the
Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "AN IMPROVED BINDING
TO BE USED FOR TRIMMING WOOLLEN CLOTH GARMENTS," upon the condition
(amongst others) that I, the said Gustav Köttgen, my executors or adminis-
trators, by an instrument in writing under my hand and seal, or under the hand
and seal of one of them, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature
of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and
cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar
months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.

page_text: NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Gustav Köttgen, do hereby declare the
nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed,
to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statment
in writing, and on reference to the accompanying Drawings, that is to say:-
Hitherto it has been impossible to trim or bind gentlemen's coats and vests
and ladies' mantles with an exact match, and it has been the greatest difficulty
to mix the binding to look like cloth; by the present Invention the inter-
weaving of a cloth centre and binding border together surmounts this difficulty,
and gives to the garment trimmed an exceedingly neat and novel appearance;
but the great advantage obtained is a good strong binding, which will not wear
out, and will look well as long as the garment with which it is trimmed. To
produce the above effect or advantage by any other means would require, first,
binding with cloth, and then finishing with a binding braid on each side; but
this binding is put on with one row of sewing, either by hand or sewing machine.
The binding is made in a double shuttle jacquard loom, of twenty-four to
thirty warps; the first shuttle puts in the cloth wool once, the loom then
changes, and the second shuttle shoots cotton or thread twice, once through
the borders and centre to keep the cloth firm, and the second time through
the borders only; thus there is only one shoot of wool where there are two
of cotton or thread.
"
The above described method of weaving will produce a cloth centre with
border of binding," but I wish to reserve to myself the right of weaving
or binding for trimming woollen cloth garments by combining in such binding
alternate strips of woollen cloth and of the material known as "binding,"
whether of worsted, thread, or other material, or combination of materials, and
whether arranged in a longitudinal, diagonal, or transverse direction, and also
the weaving of a binding for such purposes of woollen cloth with a narrow
edge of thread, silk, or other material.
for "An improved
ents," I will now
Such being the nature and object of my said Invent.
Binding to be used for Trimming Woollen Cloth Ga.
proceed to describe more in detail the manuer in which the same is to be or
may be performed or carried into practical effect. And in order that the same
may be distinctly understood I have annexed hereunto a Sheet of Drawings
illustrative thereof, and have marked the same with letters of reference
corresponding with those in the following explanation thereof, that is to say:-
The Drawings represent two patterns, by means of which any practical
weaver would be enabled to produce my improved binding. The red
represents the course of shuttle containing the thread or cotton to keep the

page_text: cloth firm and finish the border, and the blue represents the course of the
shuttle containing the wool for forming the woollen cloth.
The pattern A is worked with two shuttles, the first shuttle (red) being
passed twice for holding and binding, and the second shuttle (blue) once for
the cloth, and so on alternately. The pattern B is also a double shuttle
pattern, but the first shuttle is passed once for binding, and the second once
for the cloth, and so forth. It will be evident to the practical weaver that
an endless variety of other designs may be produced by this style of weaving.
may also observe that a similar style of binding can be produced with one
shuttle only, the cloth being formed from woollen warp threads instead of
from the weft as above described.
I
Having now described the nature and object of my said Invention for an
"Improved Binding to be used for Trimming Woollen Cloth Garments,"
together with the manner in which the same is to be or may be performed
or carried into practical effect, I would remark in conclusion that I claim
as my Invention,―
Firstly, weaving a binding for trimming woollen cloth garments by com-
bining in such binding alternate strips of woollen cloth and of the material
known as "binding," whether of worsted, thread, or other material, or com-
bination of materials, and whether arranged in a longitudinal, diagonal, or
transverse direction.
And, secondly, I claim the weaving of a binding for such purposes of
woollen cloth with a narrow edge of thread, silk, or other material.
In witness whereof, I, the said Gustav Köttgen, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Eighteenth day of November, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-three.
GUSTAV KOTTGEN. (L.S.)