IMPROVEMENTS IN BUSTLES
Year: 1886

page_text: I, MORITZ ROSENSTOCK, of New-York, in the County of New-York, and State
of New-York, United States of America, Manufacturer, do hereby declare the
nature of my invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN BUSTLES," and in what mannėr
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement :—
This invention relates to certain improvements in the construction of Bustles,
and it consists, essentially, in forming the dress-distending portion of two or more
springs connected together transversely, and each constructed of several strands or
strips of fibrous material such as rattan, cotton, hemp, jute, and the like, 'or raw-
hide, or imitations thereof, as leatherboard leatheroide, or leatherette, braideḍ
together into tubular form with tapering ends, as hereinafter described and
claimed.
In the drawing: Figure 1 represents a front elevation of one of the tubular
springs. Figure 2 shows a double spring. Figure 3 represents an elevation of a
bustle constructed according to my improvements. Figure 4 represents a covered
bustle with the springs enclosed in pockets formed in the cover.
The springs A, are suitably formed by weaving together into circular form a
series of strands or strips B, of fibrous material, such for instance as rattan,
rawhide or imitations thereof as leatherboard, leatheroide or leatherette, or strips
or cords of other fibrous material as cotton, hemp, jute, and the like, the number of
strands depending upon the circumference of each spring and the closeness of the
mesh; as represented in the drawing each spring is formed of a gradually
enlarging taper from each end to the center which is accomplished either by
gradually increasing the size of the mesh from one end to the center and then
gradually decreasing the size of the mesh from the center to the opposite end or by
weaving the tube of equal circumference throughout its length and then drawing
out the ends so as to bring the strands and meshes closer together than the middle
portion and thus produce tapering ends.
By this means I obtain a strong elastic spring readily yielding to pressure on
any portion thereof, while also sufficiently rigid when at rest to distend and support
the dress. By braiding the fibrous material together sinuously in the tubular form
the several strands or strips are supported, while at the same time the springs yield
1.1

page_text: in every direction with sufficient resistance and their return to their original
position upon the pressure being released is assured.
When strips or strands of rattan or of either of the other fibrous materials
heretofore mentioned are employed in the formation of the tubular springs much
better results are secured than when wire is employed; for instance a spring
formed of strips of rattan, rawhide and the like or of strands of cotton or other
cord, or of twisted hemp, jute and the like is less harsh, more elastic and flexible, it
will more quickly resume its tubular form, the strands of the several springs will
not kink or bind together, they will not rust and soil the cover or clothing with
which they come in contact, they are safer to use in thunderstorms, a bustle con-
structed thereof will be lighter, more easily and cheaply constructed, as such
flexible fibrous material as above mentioned is more pliant, can bo more readily
and cheaply obtained and woven, the same degree of tension on the strands as is
necessary when lengths of wire are employed is not necessary as there is not the
danger of the strips or strands of fibrous material kinking or buckling in manu-
facture or in use.
The springs may be either formed separately with the free ends of the material
at each end either stitched or clipped together or to a binding strip of fabric or
twisted around the adjacent material, or the loose ends of the material of each or
several springs may be secured in position by a soft metal cap enveloping the same,
or the springs may be formed in pairs or greater numbers by first braiding the
material so as to form a single spring and then carrying the strands downward or
upward, as the case may be, for the desired distance and then braiding another
similarly-shaped spring, in which latter case the loose ends of the strands or strips
of the first-made- spring will be twisted or interlocked with the loose ends of the
strands of the subsequently-made spring, or springs, as shown in figure 2. Caps or
clips may also be applied to the ends of the combined springs to bind them
together, or they may be secured to tapes or to the bustle cover as desired. The
springs, as shown, are connected or joined together, transversely, at each end either
in the manner above described, by means of caps or clips, or by braiding their ends
together by strips of tape or other fabric or by enclosing them in pockets formed
in a textile cover; they are also connected transversely together at or about their
center by tapes C, or other suitable devices; In the drawings I have shown these
connecting devices as consisting of tapes looped around the lower spring and
extending therefrom in a straight line to, and also looped around, the spring above;
any desired number of such tapes &c may be employed and they may be of any
suitable or desired width. D represents straps or bands by which the bustle is
attached to the wearer, and E represents other straps by which the extent of the
curvature is adjusted.
The springs A, are formed of varying lengths, as shown, that forming the upper
part of the bustle being shorter than that below, and when more than two of such
springs are used in the formation of a bustle each spring below the upper one is of
increased length; similarly the size, circumferentially, of the springs may vary;
the bottom one being of the greatest circumference while those above are of
decreased circumference; in this way I am enabled to construct a bustle with the
several springs overlying each other in the manner shown in the drawings, each
spring being loosely connected together transversely to permit of their free elastic
movement in use but prevent their separation from each other and also steady
them in position.
In figure 4 the bustle is shown as having a sectional envelope or cover of textile
material with the springs resting in pockets formed therein; in some cases I find
it desirable to stuff a portion of the pockets with hair or other soft or elastic
material.
In some cases I envelope the springs in textile fabric and attach the ends of said
fabric to the attaching band so as to leave an open inner space between the inner
sides of the springs when bowed; tapes C, in this construction being attached to
the fabric to connect the several springs together.

page_text: Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is,
"1. A bustle having one or more tubular braided springs of fibrous material,
the respective ends of the several strands constituting the tube being connected
together and to an attaching band or body belt, substantially as set forth.
"2. A bustle having two or more tubular braided springs of fibrous material and
having tapering ends, each spring having independent transverse connection together
and to attaching band, substantially as set forth.
"3. A bustle having two or more braided tubular springs each tube being composed
of a series of strands or strips of fibrous material, and having tapering ends, said
springs being connected together and to a body belt at their respective ends and
having independent transverse connection together and to an attaching band, and
to an attaching band at a point, or points, between their ends, an attaching band,
and adjusting bands or straps attached to the bustle sides, substantially as set
forth.
"4. A bustle composed of two or more braided rattan tubes having tapering ends
and means for connecting the same to the body of the wearer, or to a garment.
“5. A bustle composed of two or more braided rattan tubes having tapering
ends, and a body belt, said springs being connected to the body belt at their
respective ends and having independent transverse connection together and to the
body belt at one or more points between their respective ends.
"6. A bustle composed of a plurality of overlying tubular braided springs of
fibrous material and having tapering ends, an attaching band or belt, and means
for transversely connecting said springs together and to the attaching band or belt."
"7. A bustle composed of one or more tubes of rattan or other fibrous material
each tube being formed by braiding a series of strips or strands of such materia!
together and a body belt and suitable devices for securing the ends of said strands
together and for connecting said tube or tubes to the body belt.