Improvements in Over Seaming Machines for Cut Hosiery Fabrics.
Year: 1897

page_text: Date of Application, 19th July, 1897-Accepted, 13th Nov., 1897.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION...
Improvements in Over Seaming Machines for Cut Hosiery
Fabrics.
•
I JULIUS KÖHLER of Limbach, Saxony, Sewing Machine Maker, do hereby declare
the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed
to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
My said invention relates to an overseaming machine having for its object to seam
together or to border cut hosiery fabrics having no fast edges at a great speed (about
3000 stitches per minute) and at the same time to smoothly trim or cut the edges
of the work.
In order to clearly describe my said invention reference is hereinafter made to the
accompanying two sheets of drawings.
Fig. 1 is a longitudinal section Fig. 2 is a plan and Fig. 3 is a transverse section
of a seaming machine working with two threads viz.-the needle thread and the
looper thread for producing the seam shown in Fig. 9.
In order to vary the breadth of the seam I use the following arrangement of
mechanism.
An arm B carrying the sewing needle is driven directly by the excentric C (Fig. 3)
on the main shaft A. The axle or fulcrum D of the needle arm B is adjustable in
the bearings D which are preferably cast on the sewing plate (see Fig. 4 which is
a back elevation). The needle arm B is firmly secured to the axle D having two
collars at one end between which lies a ring E the journals of which are connected
with an excentric strap F¹ containing an excentric F mounted on a shaft which
carries a lever G1 G2. A spring H continually pulls at the arm G¹ and produces the
back turn of the excentric F. The arm G is connected by a wire or other link I to
a treadle. By depressing the treadle the excentric F may be turned whereby the
axle D and the needle arm B are caused to slide in the bearings D4.
This shifting of the needle arm produces a change in the distance of the needle
from the right hand edge of the tongue a¹ (Fig. 2) on which the loops of the seam
are laid as shown in Fig. 15. The needle entering further towards the line u-u
widens the stitch because the catching of the meshes takes place past the presser.
In order when operating on ribbed fabrics to ensure the catching of the cut meshes
of the edge by the stitches of the seam the tongue of the presser a (Fig. 2) may be
so constructed as that the right hand half of the tongue a¹ shall be adjustable with
regard to the other part of the tongue a². If the part a¹ of the tongue is set further
to the right the loops engage (see Fig. 15) further over the edge w of the fabric
which is determined by the shears. The edge or cutting line w of the shears always
remains at the same place since the shears are not capable of lateral adjustment.
The
The shears which trim the edge of the fabric are close in front of the needle and
consist of a fixed lower blade L (Figs. 2 and 3) and a movable upper blade K.
upper blade K (which is attached to an arm K¹ mounted on an axle K2) is actuated
by an excentric K'. The journal of the arm K¹ is for purposes of adjustment secured
to a slide K (Fig. 5) which can be raised and lowered by a screw K5 in order that
the upper shear blade K may- be accurately set in relation to the lower shear

page_text: blade L. The axle K2 of the arm K' is continually pressed towards the left by means
of a spring K so as to keep the blade K up to the blade L. A screw K³ serves to
regulate the pressure exerted by the spring.
While cutting elastic knitted fabric the shears pull the fabric back a little so that
between the shears and the feeder near the needle it is stretched and hence arise
irregular stitches. To prevent this a second feeder (p1 and p2 Fig. 8) is provided
near the shears and each feeder receives it own motion from the main shaft.
For this purpose I provide on the main shaft A two excentrics and 22 (see Fig. 6
which is a back elevation and Fig. 7 which is a sectional elevation in the direction of
the arrow z.) for producing the horizontal movement of the feeders p¹ and p². To vary
the extent of this movement the excentric rods are adjustably connected to
levers (Fig. 6). The latter are mounted on shafts m¹ m² which also carry
forks n n² hinged to the slides o¹ 02 (Fig. 7) bearing the feeders pl and p². Slide
blocks q q2 working in the slides fit over excentrics for raising and lowering the
feeders.
The feeder p² works (see Fig. 8) near the needle hole or the needle while the front
feeder p' is placed near the shears. The horizontal movement of the front feeder pl
is somewhat greater than that of p2 so that the dragging of the fabric during the
cutting is compensated by the greater feed.
In order to be able to drive the machine at a great speed the seizing of the needle
thread loops and its combination with the other thread is effected by two loopers each
of which does about half of the work.
t
The movement of each of the loopers ƒ and g (Fig. 1) is obtained by a crank from
a side shaft h which is driven from the main shaft A at the same velocity by means
of worm gearing. On each end of the shaft h is a disc crank ¹ (Fig. 1) and h2
(Fig. 4). The front crank h¹ (Fig. 1) is directly connected by a link to the
looper g while the other crank h² (Fig. 4) being connected by a link to the arm f
causes the latter to oscillate. The arm f2 is mounted on a shaft f¹ of the looper f
which carries a thread..
The looper g has only a small hook and serves to seize the needle thread loop and
to deliver it to the other looper f.
The successive operations which produce the seam Fig. 9 is as follows.
The needle thread is drawn from the front through the eye of the needle. Fig. 10
shows the threaded needle in its lowest position after passing through the fabric.
Both loopers are at rest.
On the rising of the needle the looper g seizes the loop r of the needle thread
Fig. 11 while the looperf begins to slowly rise.
The needle rises farther (Fig. 12). The looper g enlarges the loop 7 of the needle
thread and the hook of the looper f enters it. In Fig. 13 the needle is at the top of
its stroke the fabric has advanced the distance of a stitch, the looper g has released
the loop r of the needle thread and the looper f now stands close in front of the needle.
The looper is so arranged that between the looper and its thread there is a small
free space y which the descending needle enters (see Fig. 13 which is a plan). On
the needle now descending (Fig. 14) the looper f on its retreat puts a loop s round
the needle. This loop then comes over the small tongue a¹ (Fig. 2) of the presser. 4
Lastly the looperf on its further retreat casts the loop of the needle thread, and while
the looper pulls its thread the descent of the needle causes the loop s of the needle
thread to be pulled close so that both thread loops unite at the edge of the fabric
(Fig. 9).
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is.
1. An overseaming machine for uniting or bordering cut fabrics in which a needle.
thread passing through the fabric is seized in loop form by a looper g then by a
threaded second looper f and held until the latter delivers its own thread in loop form 5
to the re-entering needle when by its retreat the looperf casts off the needle thread

page_text: loop and produces a union of the two threads at the edge of the fabric substantially as
set forth and shown.
2. In an overseaming machine such as described the use of two feeders p¹ p² having
independently adjustable strokes substantially as set forth and shown.
3. In an overseaming machine such as described the combination with the needle
arm B of a longitudinally adjustable axle D and an excentric F for varying the width
of the seam substantially as set forth and shown.
4. In an overseaming machine such as described the combination with the shear
lever K¹ of a slide Ke and an adjusting screw K5 substantially as and for the purpose
set forth and described with reference to Fig. 5 of the accompanying drawings.
5. In an overseaming machine such as described the divided tongue a¹ a² of the
presser (Fig. 2) the part a¹ of which is laterally adjustable substantially as and for
the purpose set forth and described with reference to Fig. 2 of the accompanying
drawings.
Did this 70th
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