IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANU- PACTURE OF BRACELETS BROOCHER AND OTHER ARTICLES OF JEWELLERY
Year: 1852

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Henry Jenkins, of No. 11, Spencer Street,
in Birmingham, in the County of Warwick, Die Sinker, Stamper,
and Piercer, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANU-
PACTURE OF BRACELETS BROOCHER AND OTHER ARTICLES OF JEWELLERY."
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION filed by the said Henry Jenkins at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition
and Declaration, on the 8th December 1852, pursuant to the
9th Section of the Patent Law Amendment Act, 1852.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I,
HENRY JENKINS, of No. 11, Spencer Street, in Birmingham, in the
County of Warwick, Die Sinker, Stamper, and Piercer, do hereby
declare the nature of my said Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE
MANUFACTURE OF BRACELETS, BROOCHES, AND OTHER ARTICLES OF JEWELLERY,"
and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement and the
Drawing hereunto annexed (that is to say):
The nature of my said Invention consists in a new method of

page_text: forming the several metallic parts of the bracelet, brooch, or other
article to be produced by means of stamping, pressing, and piercing
tools, and of uniting together the parts so formed without the
necessity of soldering the same; and the manner in which the same
is to be performed is as follows: namely, to produce a bracelet, I
take a thin piece or sheet of gold, gold plate, silver, silver plate,
copper gilt, or any other suitable metal, previously rolled to the
proper thickness, and cut thereout, by means of suitable piercing
tools placed in an ordinary screw press, the blanks necessary to form
the several parts of the ornaments to the before mentioned article.
Figure 1, in the annexed Drawing, is a plan of a blank for the upper
or front part of a large or centre ornament of a bracelet usually
called "the mount." I place this blank upon an under tool, called
a bed (fixed upon the block of a stamp), having an indentation of
the form required engraved or sunk upon its upper surface, and
with an upper tool or die of corresponding form, with a suitable
projection on its under surface, affixed to a stamp press or stamp,
the blank in the shape shown by a plan thereof at Figure 2. A
side elevation thereof is shewn at Figure 3. I then pierce thereout,
with suitable piercing tools, placed in an ordinary screw press, the
pattern desired, as shewn at Figure 4; I also pierce thereout, with
other suitable piercing tools, small perforations or holes through the
sides of the mount, as shewn at Figure 5; and I also pierce thereout
(when required), a larger perforation through each side of the
mount, as shown in a section thereof, at Figure 6. Figure 9, is a
plan of a blank for the under or hinder part of the ornament, called
the "back." I place this blank for the back upon a bed (properly
fixed) having one, two, or more suitable indentations upon its upper
surface, and with a die of corresponding form, having suitable
projections on its under surface, affixed to a stamp, or in a common
screw press, stamp or press the same into the shape shewn by a plan
thereof at Figure 10, by means whereof one, two, or more channels
-or indentations (as may be desired) are formed across the back, a
side elevation whereof is shewn at Figure 11. I then turn over,
and press down by hand or other suitable means, each of the

page_text: extreme ends of the blank for the back, until the open parts of the
said channels or indentations are covered by the ends so turned
down, as seen at Figure 12, and form loops or tubes, as shewn at
Figure 13.
Two other modes of forming the backs of articles of this form
are shewn at Figures 14, 15, 16, and 17, Figures 14, and 16, being
respectively plans of such backs, and Figures 15, and 17, being
respectively side elevations thereof, one of which modes, shewn
at Figures 14, and 15, having merely indentations or channel's
across the back, without any turning down at the ends, and the
other of which modes has ears or projection's from the sides, per-.
forated and afterwards turned up, as shewn by the side elevation
Figure 17 (to allow pins or other fastenings to be passed through,.
as herein-after mentioned). The blanks for these forms of backs will
require to be made by cutting tools of suitable pattern; other forms:
for producing these several parts of similar ornaments of a different.
pattern are shewn in Figures 18, 19, 20, 21, and 22, the several
operations to produce the mounts of the same being such as are
described in reference to Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6. Figures 25,
26, 27, 28, 29, 31, 32, 33, and 34, are forms for producing the backs
of such last mentioned pattern, and are to be produced by like oper-
ations to those described in reference to Figures 9, 10, 11, 12, 13;
14, 15, 16, and 17. Figure 30, is a blank for producing the form of.
back shewn in side elevation at Figure 31, and in plan at Figure 32.
The forms for producing similar ornaments of a different pattern
are shewn by Figures 35, a blank; 36, a plan; and 37, a side, elevation
thereof respectively, and are to be produced by such operations as
are described in respect of Figures 1, and 2. The forms of these
several
parts must be made as various as the several patterns of the
articles respectively intended to be produced. I then unite together.
the mounts and backs (or. parts so formed as above), combined with.
a gem or precious stone, or piece of glass of a suitable form.colored
to imitate any of the precious stones, or with any device thereon, or
with enamel, or other substance, in order to produce the entire
ornament or ornaments of which the bracelet may be afterwards.

page_text: composed, as follows:-I place a gem or precious stone, or a piece
of colored glass, or other material of suitable form or device, within
the mount, so that part of it shall appear through or projecting from
the pattern cut or pierced in the mount (see Figure 4). I then
place a back, Figure 12, (or 14, or 16, as the case may be,) over the 5
gem, stone, glass or other material within the mount, and unite or
fasten the parts together by passing pins of wire through the small
holes or perforations made in the sides of the mount, Figure 5, and
through the loop or loops formed in the back, Figures 12, and 13,
(or over and along the channels in Figures 14, and 15, or through.
the cars or projections in Figures 16, and 17, as the case may be,).
upon the ends of which pins I rivet or screw small ornamental
heads or beads, as shewn in Figures 39, 40, and 41.
To form a bracelet, I take a sufficient number (either one or.
more) of the ornaments so formed and united, and pass through
each of the larger perforations made in the sides of the mount,
shewn in Figure 6, (which is a section thereof), an elastic band,
of any suitable material and width, as shewn at Figure 41, and
unite the ends of the band together by sewing or otherwise;
or, instead of passing an elastic band through such larger per-
forations, I pass elastic cords or thread (in lieu of pins), through
the smaller perforations made in the sides of the mount, Figure 5,.
and through the loops, channels, or indentations, in the back
thereof, Figures 28, 29, 31, 32, or through the ears or projections,
Figures 33, 34, as the case may be; and I also place on each of'
the said cords or threads a bead or beads, between any, each, or
every of the said ornaments, as shewn at Figures 38, and 42, and
then unite the ends of the cords or threads together by sewing, or
in any other suitable manner, by which means the parts of the said
ornaments will be securely united or held together, without the
necessity of soldering the same, as is now usual in forming such
ornaments. Brooches, buckles, shawl pins, and other articles of
jewellery, or of gilt jewellery, may-be produced of various forms
or patterns, in like manner, by stamping, pressing, and piercing, the
several metallic parts of the same, and afterwards combining with

page_text: them, a gem, stone, a piece of glass, or other material, as before
mentioned, and uniting together the several parts by pins, with
beads or heads rivetted' or screwed on the ends thereof, in the
manner before mentioned.
Figures 7, 8, 23, and 24, exhibit another mode of forming the
mounts of those respective patterns having teeth or clips on their
outer rims or surfaces, which are produced by stamping the mount
from a blank of sufficient size to leave a flange all round its outer
edge; part of which flange is afterwards to be cut away by suitable
piercing tools, so as to leave the teeth or clips upon the mount.
These clips or teeth, by being turned over with a burnisher, or other
suitable tool, upon the back of the ornament, when the several parts
are put together as aforesaid, will hold or unite them firmly.
Figures 39, and 40, shew a brooch put together according to my
said Invention; Figure 39, being a plan, and Figure 40, being a
side elevation thereof.
In witness whereof, I, the said Henry Jenkins, have hereunto
Bet my hand and seal, this Sixth day of December, in the
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-two.
HENRY JENKINS. (L.s.)