Improvements in and relating to Corsets.
Year: 1890

page_text: Date of Application, 18th Nov., 1890
Complete Specification Left, 18th Aug., 1891-Accepted, 19th Sept., 1891
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in and relating to Corsets.
We, RAYMOND WILMOT BRETT, of 4, St. Margaret's Road, St. Leonards,
Gentleman, and WALTER HUBBARD, of 15, Claremont, Hastings, Gentleman, both
in the County of Sussex, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as
follows:-
Our invention relates to corsets, and consists, firstly, in using finely tempered steel
ribbons instead of the whalebone generally employed, secondly, in sewing the
gussets in ribs placed in a vertical direction instead of a more or less horizontal
direction, and thirdly in providing a sponge filling at the breast portion for spare
figures. Either of the said improvements may be used singly in a corset, or
combined in any of the usual makes not conflicting with our said invention."
The steel ribbons employed are of the best quality of thin steel such as is used
for clock and watch main springs, and is preferably tempered so as to stand a large
amount of bending backwards and forwards without danger of breaking. The sides,
however, are notched at short intervals with semi-circular notches and are placed in
pockets or seams in the usual way. But in addition to this, the steel ribbons are
sewn in the said pockets by thread, or silk-according to the quality-by passing
the needle through the material closely to the steel at the notches, so that the thread
lies closely therein. The sewing is taken from side to side of the steel ribbons, on
the outside of the fabric somewhat like single or double herring-bone sewing, the
needle always being passed through at the notches aforesaid. The steel ribbons are
therefore secured in place within the seams by a series of cross sewing from side to
side, the thread engaging with the notches, and while allowing of free bending, the
steels are effectually secured from cutting or fraying the scams or pockets in which
they are placed. The steel ribs being very thin and of good elasticity are
practically unbreakable in their position.
The gussets of corsets, which fit over the hips, are usually made of plain or
ribbed material, and when the latter, the ribs are horizontally arranged or inclined
slightly from the horizontal position. In either case, the corset has a tendency to
ruck up or bend in folds which press against the waist and produce great discomfort.
By our invention, we make ribs at the gussets in a vertical direction, thus enabling
the material to resist the rucking or folding aforesaid, and preventing the corset
from rising towards the waist.
In cutting out material for the front or bust portion of the corset we cut it much
higher than usual, and insert dried sponge within at the breast portions, held in
position by a lining, which is sewn to the extended or higher parts aforesaid. The
extended portions are therefore inclined over the sponge to the lining, and cut to
the required mould or curve. When worn, the lining can be easily unpicked
and renewed, and the sponge washed and dried, which, for hygienic reasons.
will be found a great improvement over other modes of adapting corsets to spare
figures.
Dated this 18th day of November 1890

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in and relating to Corsets.
We, RAYMOND WILMOT BRETT, of 4, St. Margaret's Road, St. Leonards,
Gentleman, and WALTER HUBBARD, of 15 Claremont, Hastings, Gentleman, both
in the County of Sussex, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement :-
Our invention relates to corsets and consists firstly, in using finely tempered steel
ribbons instead of the whalebone generally employed; secondly, in sewing the
gussets in ribs placed in a vertical direction instead of a more or less horizontal
direction; and thirdly, in providing a sponge filling at the breast portion for spare
figures. Either of the said improvements may be used singly or combined in a
.corset not otherwise conflicting with our said invention.
'
and
In the accompanying drawings,
Fig. 1 is a view of one half of a corset laying flat,
Fig. 2 is a front view of a corset shaped to the figure on a smaller scale to Fig. 1 ;
Fig. 3 is a view of a piece of steel ribbon a as prepared for use in place of
whalebone.
The steel ribbons employed are of the best quality of thin steel, such as is used
for clock and watch main springs, and is preferably tempered so as to stand a large
amount of bending backwards and forwards without danger of breaking. The
sides, however, are notched at short intervals with notches b, and the steels a are
placed in pockets or seams c (Figs. 1 and 2) in the usual way. But in addition to
this, the steel ribbons are sewn in the said pockets by thread or silk-according to
the quality of the corset-by passing the needle through the material closely to the
steel at the notches b, so that the thread lies closely therein. The sewing is taken
from side to side of the steel ribbons, on the outside of the fabric, somewhat like
single or double herring-bone sewing; the needle being passed through as near
the notches as practicable, as shown at din Fig. 1. The steel ribbons a are there-
fore secured in place within the pockets or seams c by a series of cross sewing d
from side to side the thread engaging with the notches; and while allowing of
free bending or twisting in any direction the steels are effectually secured against
cutting or fraying the seams or pockets in which they are placed. The steel ribs a
are very thin, and having great clasticity are practically unbreakable in their
position. The notches, moreover, allow of side bending and twisting to a very
great extent. The width of the ribbons a will vary to suit various requirements,
but it is preferred to make the notches b very shallow and of semi-circular
form for the narrow ribbons, while the notches may be deeper in the wide
ribbons.
The gussets of corsets, which fit over the hips-are usually made of plain or
ribbed material, and when of the latter, the ribs are horizontally arranged or
'inclined but slightly from the horizontal position. In either case, the corset
has a tendency to ruck up or bend in folds which press against the waist,
and produce great discomfort. By our invention we make ribs at the gussets
in a vertical direction, thus enabling the material to resist the rucking or
folding tendency aforesaid, and preventing the corset from rising towards the
waist.
In cutting out material for the front or bust portion of the corset, we some
times cut it much higher than usual at (Fig. 2) and insert dried sponge within
a lining (not shown in the drawing) which is sewn to the extended or higher
parts aforesaid. The extended portions are therefore inclined over the sponge
to the lining, and cut to the required mould or curve. When worn, the lining
can be easily unpicked and renewed-the sponge washed and dried-which

page_text: for hygienic reasons, will be found of great advantage in adapting corsets to spare
figures.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we
claim is :-
1. The herein described improvements in corsets comprising the combination of
notched steel ribs inserted in seams or pockets and cross sewn therein, with gussets
having ribs mainly arranged in a vertical direction, substantially as and for the
purpose described.
2. The herein described improvements in corsets, consisting in the combination
of notched steel ribs inserted in seams or pockets and cross sewn therein, with
gussets having ribs mainly arranged in a vertical direction, and linings or pockets
containing sponge formed at the high cut portions of the corset, substantially in the
manner and for the purpose described.
3. The combination of a corset, with notched thin steel ribs, the said ribs
being inserted within pockets or seams and secured therein by outside cross
sewing from side to side of the ribs, substantially as and for the purpose herein
described.
Dated this 17th day of August 1891.
FAIRFAX & WETTER,
433, Strand, London, Agents for the Applicants.