BUTTON HOLE WEAVING
Year: 1884

page_text: I JOHN KENNY of 95: Avondale Square Old Kent Road in the County of Surrey
Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of the Invention for BUTTON HOLE
WEAVING to be as follows:-
•
•
This invention consists of weaving a turned web or tape in such manner that
when cut into sections the said sections shall be in the form of button holes and in
the machinery for effecting the same.
.
The apparatus for performing the above work consists mainly of a vertical head
piece travelling in a groove on the face of a horizontal disc the said disc being
mounted on a vertical shaft working in the frame of the machine This shaft
also carries a spur wheel which gears with a wheel on which is cast a suitable
number of teeth, said wheel being mounted on shaft carried by the framing said'
shaft also carrying a cam for driving the head piece A pinion or spur wheel is
also mounted on said shaft gearing into another spur wheel mounted on another
shaft carrying a toothed wheel driven by worm on main shaft On this shaft is
a mitre wheel gearing into similar wheel on a horizontal shaft; such horizontal
shaft carrying a spur wheel which drives cam shaft with cams for actuating levers
on the framing. These levers work on guides sliding horizontally in a grid mounted
on a portion of the main frame. The grid contains also recesses for guiding and
controlling vertical action of the frames carrying the warps said frames being
slung or suspended by cords working over pulley secured to the head of the main
frame. The under ends of the warp frames are connected by cords or otherwise
to elbow levers acted upon by tappets on the main shaft. On the main shaft is
mounted a mitre wheel gearing into another wheel on a short vertical shaft which
carries a horizontal disc ou which is a pin working in a slot in the lever carrying
segmental rack actuating pinions on two vertical shafts such shafts having at their
other ends pinions gearing into rack teeth on the shuttle thus driving shuttle.
The shuttle runs on a circular race such race being formed of a flat ring divided
at a suitable point for the passage of the warp threads.
In the warp frames are transverse or horizontal slides carrying the needles and
bobbins of the warp threads.
On a suitable part of the main frame are mounted braiding wheels,―actuating
spindles lying horizontally, the threads from such spindles converging to the
weaving point

page_text: Having thus specified the object or objects and nature of my Invention I now
proceed to more fully describe it by referring to the accompanying drawings.
Fig 1 representa a plan view of the machine.
Fig 2. a sido elevation in part, portions of the framing being omitted for the
purpose of affording a better view of the working parts.
Fig. 3. a part front elevation showing the arrangement of needles and bobbins
attached to the transverse slides of the warp frames and also illustrating the cams
and lovers that work.them.
Fig 4 shows disc and pinions in gear with slotted lever and rack for communi-
cating motion to shuttle driving pinions.
Fig 5. back view of shuttle.
Fig 6. side view of standard for shuttle bobbins and central transverse section
of shuttle and race.
Fig 7 and 8 gearing for communicating motion from main shaft to braiding
wheels.
Fig 9 represents the travelling head piece and cam for driving it.
Fig 10 arrangement for turning the disc on which the head piece travels.
Fig 11 front view of framing piece on which the disc turns.
Figs. 12, 13 and 14 represent on a larger scale the form of the woven, material.
Fig 15, is an enlarged side view of the braiding shuttle shewn in vertical position
for convenience of description.
Fig 16. back end view of braiding shuttle.
A, A, A, D, and Y. represent the principal parts of the main framing. B the
main shaft. O. the flat ring on which the shuttle runs, intersected by a space to
allow for the passage and shedding of the warp threads. E. cam for driving
vertical head F. G. shuttle. H. slotted lever with segmental rack. I. disc
actuating the slotted lever, H. K. and K'. tappets on main shaft. L and L' elbow
levers. M. grid. N. N'. N" and Nu transverso alides carrying the warp bobbius
and needles. O and P. warp frames. Q. worm thread on main shaft. R. spur
wheel gearing with spur wheel S. on cam shaft S'. S", SI SIV. SY. SVI and S
cams for actuating the levers O", o p p p, and P T warp bobbins.
U. needle. V. braider. W. and X. wheels controlling the action of the braider to
be hereinafter referred to. Z. braiding shuttle; corresponding marks indicate the
same parts in the various figures.
DAL 10th of Chambon 100%.

page_text: JOHN KENNY of 95 Avondale Square Old Kent Road in the County of Surrey
Engineer do hereby declare the nature of the invention for BUTTON HOLE WEAVING,
and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement:-
.
This Invention consists of weaving a turned web or tape in such manner that
when cut into sections the said sections shall be in the form of Button holes and in
the machinery for effecting the same.
The apparatus for performing the above work consists mainly of a vertical head
piece travelling in a groove on the face of a horizontal disc, the said disc being
mounted on a vertical shaft working in the frame of the machine. This shaft.also
carries a spur wheel which gears with a wheel on which is cast a suitable number
.of teeth the said wheel being mounted on a shaft carried by the framing, said shaft
also carrying a cam for driving the head piece. A pinion or spur wheel is also
mounted on said shaft gearing into another spur wheel mounted on another shaft
carrying a toothed wheel driven by worm on main shaft. On this shaft is a mitre
wheel gearing into a similar wheel on a horizontal shaft; such horizontal shaft
carrying a spur wheel which drives cam, shaft with cams for actuating levers on the
framing; these levers work on guides sliding horizontally in a grid mounted on a
portion of the main frame The grid also contains recesses for guiding and con-
trolling vertical action of the frames carrying the warps; said frames being slung
or suspended by cords working over pulley secured to the head of the main frame
The under ends of the warp frames are connected by cords or otherwise to elbow
levers acted upon by tappets on the main shaft.
On the main shaft is mounted a mitre wheel gearing into another wheel on short
vertical shaft which carries a horizontal disc on which is a pin working in a slot
in the lever carrying segmental rack actuating pinions on two vertical shafts, such
shafts having at their other ends pinions gearing into rack teeth on the shuttle
thus driving the shuttle. The shuttle runs on a circular race, such race being
formed of a flat ring divided at a suitable point for the passage of the warp
threads.
In the warp frames are transverse or horizontal slides carrying the needles and
bobbins of the warp threads On a suitable part of the main frame are mounted
braiding wheels actuating spindles lying horizontally the threads from such spindles
carrying to weaving point.
The action of the machine is as follows. The threads from the bobbins which
are carried by the warp frames after passing through the needle eyes are carried
in conjunction with those from the braiding spindles through a temple-or guide
forming the weaving point which is placed over and near to a vertical line
passing through the centre of disc on which is placed the travelling head piece.
Motion being given to the machine as the weaving is proceeding, the cam acting
on the vertical head piece causes it to have a forward movement thereby taking up

page_text: 1
the weaving. When the cam has pushed forward the head piece to the end of its
stroke n circular motion is given to the disc by the action of the spur wheel which
has a suitable number of teeth on it coming into gear with the spur wheel on disc
shaft and causing it, to take a half revolution; this part of the motion of the head
pieco causing the turn in the weaving and thereby forming the crown or head of
the button hole, This motion brings the reverse end of the sliding head pieco
round to be acted on by the next stroke of the cam; this forward and part circular
movement of the head piece taking up the weaving in the form of an elongated
spiral; each turn or lap being laid on the preceding one. When sufficient are
gathered on the head piece to hold fast the ends of the threads that were started
are set free and by a weight or any convenient method may be drawn from the
bead lap by lap, as lap by lap is warped. on. At the commencement and finish of
the turn of the head pieco some of the slides carrying the warp threads receive
a lateral movement by the levers acting on the guides which control them. This
'movement causes the warp threads to be crossed in such manner that a shoulder is
set up at the beginning and ending of the turn and is formed on the inside edge of
the material as it is turned. The braiding threads are also woven in on the inner
edge to form a strong selvage. The braiding wheels being driven by gearing in
connection with the main shaft of the machine and receiving an intermittent notion
thereby bringing a thread down with each corresponding lay of the warp for the
passage of the shuttle with the weft, thus being woven in with the warp. The
material when severed at or near the elongation forming button holes for
attachment.
Having thus specified the object or objects and nature of my Invention I now
proceed to more fully describe it by referring to the drawings accompanying
provisional Specification.
Fig I represents a plan view of the machine. Fig 2 a side elevation in part;
portions of the framing being omitted for the purpose of affording a better view of
the working parts, Fig 3. a part front elevation shewing the arrangement of
needles and bobbins attached to the transverse slides of the warp frames and also
illustrating the cams and lovers that work them. Fig 4 shews disc and pinions in
gear with slotted lever and rack for communicating motion to the shuttle driving
pinions. Fig 5 back view of shuttle. Fig 6. side view of standard for shuttle
bobbins and central transverse section of shuttle and race. Figs. 7 and 8. genring
for communicating motion from main shaft to braiding wheels Fig 9 represents
the travelling head piece and cam for driving it. Fig 10 arrangement for turning
the disc on which the head piece travels. Fig 11 front view of framing piece on
which the disc turns Figs 12, 13, and 14 represent on a larger scale the form of
the woven material. Fig 15 is an enlarged side view of the braiding shuttle shewn
in vertical position for convenience of description. Fig 16, back end view of
braiding shuttle.
A, A, A, D and Y represent the principal parts of the main framing. B. the
main shaft. C the flat ring on which the shuttle runs; intersected by a space to
allow for passage and shedding of the warp threads. E cam for driving vertical
Lead F. G. shuttle H. slotted lever with segmental rack. I disc actuating the
blotted lever H. Kand K' tappets on main shaft. L. and L' elbow levera. M grid.
N, N', N and N11 transverse slides carrying the warp bobbins and needles.
Oand P warp frames Qworm thread on main shaft R spur wheel gearing with
spur wheel S on cam shaft S. SH, SH, SY, SV, SI, SV, cams for actuating the
levers 0, 0, P P P P T'warp bobbins. U needle. V braider. W and
✗ wheels controlling the action of the braider to be hereinafter referred to.
Z. braiding shuttle. Corresponding marks indicate the same parts in the various
Figures.
Referring in the first instance to the means of giving the necessary movement to
the travelling head piece F more particularly to Figs. 1, 2, 9 and 10. The said
head piece consists of a stock piece sliding in a groove on disc F". In the upper

page_text: part of the stock are pins in vertical position one being placed near to each end of
the stock A thin partition extends lengthwise from pin to pin for the purpose of
keeping the material in position as it is piled up on the head
A worm wheel Q on shaft Q¹ is actuated by worm Q of the main shaft B. At
the upper end of Q is fixed a pinion Qui gearing with pinion E on vertical shaft E¹
which carries a driving cam E;-said cam is of volute form (Fig 9) on that part of
its periphery which acts in driving the head F along the groove formed by groove
plates. Fon the face of the disc FI; the said disc being held stationary while this
forward movement of the head takes place. The groove extends right across the
face of the disc and is open at each end. When the cam has pushed the head to
the extent of its stroke it will be seen that one end of the head is at or near the
centre of the disc the other end projecting from the groove. The disc is now
caused to turn in the direction indicated by the arrow near the projecting end of
the head (Fig 9) and is effected in the following manner. On a short shaft carrying
the disc and having its bearing in the saddle piece of framing FIV is fixed a
pinion F, the said pinion having attached to its underside a stop plate FV;
on shaft E is fixed the wheel E which has spur teeth on a portion of its
periphery only; the said teeth gear intermittently with pinion Fill El has
also a plate E attached to its underside. The forms of FV and EV are shewn
in Fig 10. F is formed of a circular plate having a portion fl struck out at
two opposite sides of its circumference to form bays; EV is also circular having
the greater part of its circumference of larger radius than the remainder While
the cam is acting upon the head in progressing it forward that part of the
circumference of EV which is of larger radius is in contact with a bay of FV and
it is obvious that FV and consequently the disc F" must remain stationary while
the bay to its fullest extent is in contact with the outer circumference of EV. As
this outer circumference is leaving the bay FV the teeth of El come into gear with
those of pinion Ful and cause it to make half a revolution when the teeth of E¹¹¹
go out of gear with those of F there being only sufficient to give it half a turn.
This action brings the disc round till the groove assumes the same parallell line as
previously but with its reverse end facing the cam. The reverse end of the head is
also thereby brought round and meets the cam at e where the stroke commences.
F is enabled to turn by reason of the smaller radius of a portion of the plate Ev
allowing the larger radius of FV to pass freely and without contact while the teeth
of F and E are in gear. The warps as also the braiding threads are made fast
to the head by looping their ends on to a pin 28 (Fig 13) secured to the head after
passing them through the throat of the guide 13 (Fig 1) By the continuous
movement of the travelling head as above described the material as it is being
woven is taken up on the partition spirally and in oblong form lap on lap as she wr
in Figs. 12 and 13. When a sufficient number of laps are taken on the material
will hold fast on the head without the aid of pin 28; the said pin is then with-
drawn thus freeing the ends of the material when it may be taken off the head lap
by lap as lap by lap is taken on. The material needs to be pressed down on the
head occasionally as the weaving proceeds.
wn
Referring in the next instance to the warp frames and their action in conjunction
with the necessary adjuncts for the proper working of the warps more particularly
to figs. 2 and 3. the said frames and P are suspended by the cord 19 connecting
them passing over pulley 17 carried by an eye piece, bearing in the head of the
framing; the said eye piece has a coiled spring passing round its shank and is
secured by nut and wasber. The lower ends of the frames are connected by cords
to the long arms of the levers L and L'; the short arms of these levers are acted on
by tappets K. and K³ thereby causing the rise and fall of the said frames.
At the
upper end of O are carried horizontal slides N and N₁ working in bearings at each
side of the frame. The lower end of P has similar bearings in which N and Nu
work. The said slides are slotted, the slots extending nearly to their full length
and carry the bobbin plates T¹ similarly slotted; to these plates are fixed the

page_text: spindles on which the bobbins T. holding the warp threads are turned; the said
plates are bent to a right angle at a sufficient distance from the spindles to allow
the bobbins to turn freely. The front plates T" (Fig 2) hold the bobbins on to
the spindles and are lined with cloth or plush giving sufficient friction to prevent
the bobbins running loosely; the said plates are also pierced to allow the ends of
the said spindles to pass tlirough. The wire bridles affixed to the plates T' hold
the plates on by encircling them and pressing down by spring action on the
projecting ends, of the spindles & keep the bobbins securely in their position. The
needles U are secured to the plates T by clamps u which are grooved to receive them;
the shanks of said clamps are inserted and pass through the slots of the bobbin
plates and into the slots of tho horizontal slides but not quite through as the said
shanks are purposely shortened; a small bolt passes through the shank, the head
of which is of sufficient width to cover the slot in the slide; the nut at the end
screws up to the face of the shank thus clamping the slide needle and bobbin
plate together. The warp thread is passed from its bobbin through holes in the
bend of the bobbin plate T and acquires a necessary amount of tension thereby
thonce through the oye of the needle to the throat of guide 13. As the weaving
is taken up on the head F the movement of the said head in its travel being a
compound of part forward and part circular motion the draft on each warp thread
will not be equal. To obviate a difficulty that would thus arise the warps are
drawn from seperate bobbins and are carried by their respective needles independant
of each other; this facility of accommodating the varying draft on the warp threads
enables me to cross them on each other in making a lateral movement of the slides
without causing a detrimental strain, as also while turning in the plane of weaving
the increased draft on the outer warps of the turn is by this method provided for
The turned form in the material is mainly caused by the movement of the head F
during the turning of the disc F". At the commencement and also at the finishing
of the turn a shoulder 27 (Fig 12) is formed on the inner edge of the material and
is effected in the following manner. In the machine here illustrated the slide N is
fixed in its bearings. N¹, N" and N are moveable laterally but are controlled by
the vertical arms of guides O' P' and PI as shown in Fig 3. The said guides slide
horizontally in grid M and are moved laterally by levers actuated by cains on
cam shaft S¹; The stops or projections 8, on said cams acting on the short arms of
said levers. It is evident that a variation may be made in the number of cams,
levers, and slides without departing from the scope of the invention. The lovers
have the fulcrums on bolts 16 set in the framing A". Near the ends of the longer
arms they are cranked in such manner that they do not come in contact with any
of the slides but that which they are apportioned to The lovers propel the slides
in the grid from left to right or from right to left there being a pair of levers to
work each slide, each lever being worked by its special can the projections being
so disposed that as the levers drive the slides in one direction the levers on the
opposite side yield to the motion of the slide. Fig 3. represents the guides and bobbin
alides N1, N and N as being at their extreme positions to the left. The cam
shaft St turning in the direction of the arrow brings the projection 8. on cam S
to bear on short arm of lever Pvi; the other end of the lever acting on grid slide
of guide P moves it a step to the right; the slide N controlled by vertical
armis of PIV is carried with it. This lateral movement of N111 causes its warps to
cross those of N'; a shed and shoot takes place between each lateral movement of
the slides thus fixing each crossing of the warps the shifting of the guides
occuring at alternate sheds and shoots. The slide N has three movements N
has two and N" has one movement; the projections on the cams acting to effect
said movement in the following order. As N is making its second movement
caused by the next projection on S" acting on lever PVI a similar projection on
cam S acts on short arm of lever 0; the longer arm acting on guide O' propels
it and also N' a step to the right. When the third projection on S¹¹ acts on
lever PV a second projection on Sacts on 01" and at the same time a projection

page_text: on cam SIV acts on short arm of lever P¹¹ the longer arm of which acts on guide. P¹
controlling N, the guides PIV. O and P¹ moving together a step further to the
right. The cams on shaft S' cause to move N, then N and N¹; and then
again N, N, and N₁₁ driving them to their extreme position on the right: These
movements of the slides carrying their warps across those of the fixed slide N
outsets tlie generally even edge of the material sufficient to form a shoulder at the
beginning of the turn; the rise and fall of the warp frames O and P. is continued
in with the slides in this position while the crown of the turn is formed. At the
ending of the turn the return shoulder is formed by reverse movements to the left
the projections on the cams being so disposed as to move first the slides. Nu, N¹
and N then N and N¹ and lastly N" returning them to the position shewn in
Fig 3. in which position they remain while the rise and fall of the warp frames
take place during the forward travel of the head F on the face of disc F
Referring in the next instance to the shuttle and' mode of driving it and more
particularly to Figs, 1, 4, 5, and 6 a plate G is furnished with standards G¹ bearing
bobbin G and is secured to the segmental rack G; the said plate is supported
and runs on a flat ring C. having on its underside at its outer edge small blocks a
which keep it raised from the surface of framing D. on which they stand. Screw's
passing through the blocks c. secure it said framing which is in the form of a
stool having four legs d terminating in lugs by which it is bolted to A¹. The
central part of the stool top is struck out forming a circular hole of sufficient size
to allow the top of partition of head F. to travel and turn freely within it. The
said hole is bounded by vertical flange D' except the part of the circle contiguous
to the intersected space of C. In Fig 6 the sectional parts shew the manner in
which the shuttle is held on the ring C. The plate G runs on the upper surface
of O; the body of the segmental rack lays between the flange D¹ and the inner
edge of C; the teeth of the rack Glying in the space between D and the
underside of C; thus it will be seen that C. takes into the space g between the
rack teeth and the plate G; the flange D¹ forming a breast bearing to keep the
shuttle outo C. The shuttle has a reciprocatory movement communicated by
the pinions HIV and H on the vertical shafts H'; the said pinions gear with teeth
of G; the said shafts have at their lower ends pinions H and H gearing with
rack teeth of lever H. A pin i works in the slot of said lever and is mounted on
disc I which is connected by short shaft to mitre wheel J gearing with similar
wheel J on main shaft B As the shuttle crosses the intersected space of C. it
receives partial support from a small block C¹ the top of which is on a level with
the upper surface of C. and serves to keep the shuttle from pressing on the warps.
The weft thread after passing from bobbin G over distributing rails is delivered
through one or more of the small holes in the fore part of plate G.
Referring in the next instance to the braiding wheels and more particularly to
Figs 1, 7, and 8, a pair of three winged rose wheels of ordinary form are carried
on barrels V and V" (Fig 1). The said barrels also carry the usual spur gearing.
connecting them and turn on hollow shafts set horizontally in the casing V which
is mounted on main framing Y and secured thereto. The braiding spindles and
bobbins also lie horizontally, the threads from said spindles are passed through the
throat of guide 13 to the head F in conjunction with those from warp frames O
and P. As the shuttles Z run in the race of the braider V each spindle is
carried through a point which brings its thread into the position of 21 (Fig 1)
being then on the lay with the warp threads but to the left of C¹, the other
braiding threads at this period being raised, the race of V being inclined in its
position to effect this raising The action of the braider is now stopped while the
shuttle G carrying the weft passes through the shed of the warps and this so
formed shed of the braiding wheels. The warp frames O and P then shift closing
their shed; the movement of the braiding wheels is resumed causing the braiding
threads to lift from the lay while the shuttle G returns in doing which it passes
through the next shed of the warps, having the braiding thread secured by the

page_text: weft. When it is desired to have a fuller selvage filling threads forming a core to
the braiding 22. Figs 12 and 14 may be brought from bobbins 25 and 26; either
or both may be used. The thread from 25 is passed through the hollow shaft on
which V turns, that from 26 through the shaft of V and carried through the
throat of guide 13 to the head F with the other threads. The intermittent action
of the braider is caused by wheels W and X A bevelled wheel B' on main shaft B
geara with B which is connected by a short shaft to Y¹ gearing with Y on
vertical shaft W₁ (Fig 7) The said shaft carries wheel W which by its action on X
gives motion to shaft X carrying at its upper end a bevel wheel X" which gears
with a similar wheen on, barrel V₁ and thereby gives motion to the braiding
wheels. X (Fig 8) has four slots radiating from its centre, the said slots being
open at their outer ends, W is of discoidal form one fourth of the disc is struck
out forming a bay for the free passage of the slotted points of X; attached to its
under side is an oval plate W; the shaft W1 passes through said plate near to one
end of the oval; near the other end it carries pin and bowl 24. As the shaft Wi
revolves the said pin enters one of the slots in X and thereby gives motion to X¹.
The said slot by this action is brought round to such a position that the pin in its
continued course leaves the alot and by the discord W. having entered one of the
bays X formed between the slots, X is locked. X¹, cannot turn, and the action
of the braider is stopped till the pin 24 in its further course enters the next slot
in X and thereby again causes a further movement of the braiding wheels. Thus
while shaft W has a continuous motion X has an intermittent motion.
The braiding shuttle Z is of ordinary construction in that part which runs in the
race of the braider and is driven in the usual manner by the rose wheels but is
different in its appliances of taking up the slack of its braiding thread. The
bobbin is held on to its spindle by a capping plate which has attached to its
underside cloth or plush bearing against the bobbin; the said plate is pierced to
allow the end of the spindle to project; at the projecting end of said spindle is a
small hole to receive a spring lynch pin and thus prevent the bobbin from running
loose or coming off said spindle. A base plate from which rise two standarda is
secured to the body of Z. To one of the said standards is attached the spring
arms a. The thread passes from the bobbins through a small hole at q and then to
the top of the standard and is carried through in the opposite standard; from
thence down through an eye formed by a coil in the end of spring arm a, then
through bon the standard to eye coil of the other arm a and from thence passes
through the delivery eye K. to the weaving point. When the draft comes on the
thread the spring arms a are lifted, letting out the required amount of thread.
When the draft ceases the action of the said springs cause the thread to be taken
in again thus keeping the thread just sufficiently taut
Having thus now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
Invention and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what
I claim is
1st Forming a turn in the weaving of tape or webbing as set forth and indicated.
2. The method of outsetting the weaving to form a shoulder to the material by
shifting and crossing the warps as set forth and indicated.
3. The arrangement of stop plates and EV in conjunction with spur gearing
as described to produce the alternate turn and stop of the disc F".
4. The combination of travelling head piece disc, groove plates, and cam E. for
taking up as set forth and indicated.
5. The combination of flat ring C. flange D' shuttle plate G and rack Q for
working the weft as set forth and indicated.
G. Mounting the warp bobbins and needles on transverse slides of the warp
lifting frames as described.
7. The combination of cams, levers, and guides for working the slides carrying
the warp bobbina

page_text: 8. The arrangement of braiding wheels for forming a selvage as set forth and
indicated.
9. The wheel W with plate W₁ carrying pin and bowl and slotted wheel X for
producing intermittent rotary from continuous rotary motion.
10. The arrangement for controlling the slack or superfluous amount of braiding
threads as set forth and indicated.