Year: 1894

page_text: Date of Application, 16th July, 1894
Complete Specification Left, 16th Apr., 1895-Accepted, 24th May.
1995
1 PHILIP ARTHUR NEWTON of The Office for Patents, 6 Bream's Buildings,
Chancery Lane in the County of London, Patent Agent, do hereby declare the
nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to that class of sewing machines which is calculated to
sew leather, its object being to increase the working capacity of the machine.
The novelty relates to saving time in the renewal of the shuttle spool and threading
up the locking thread; also to rendering the feed motion more smooth, the feed
more readily adjustable, and the locking of the feed bar, both on its raised and in
its depressed position, more simple and efficient.
The invention applies equally to swivel horn machines, and to machines with a
fixed work support. The fooper is carried by a rod which is mounted within the
swivel horn, it being seated in a cup carried by a driving spindle, and pivotted to
a bracket projecting from the inner face of the horn. Thus, the looper revolves
around the depressed barbed needle, and lays its thread under the .barb. The
pressing and feeding of the work is effected by, a foot carried; by a feeding bar,
which is pivotted to a vertically sliding presser bar acted on, as usual, by a
pressure spring. This presser bar has a lateral bracket extension, which is slotted
horizontally to receive a radially adjustable bowl of a rotating V edged disc fitted
on a short horizontal shaft. This disc with its bowl receives an intermittent
rotary motion from a friction clip.carried by a diso which is mounted on a long
horizontal shaft connected by bevil gearing with the main driving shaft of
the machine. This radially adjustable bowl serves, at each axial movement of
its disc, to lift the presser foot clear of the work. Situate in front of this
friction clip disc, is a disc which, carries a bowl which actuates the needle bar in
the ordinary manner, and upon the periphery of this disc, is a cam projection,
which, coming into contact with the pivotted arm of the presser bar, imparts a
rocking movement thereto, for the purpose of feeding the work."
!
"The adjustment of the feed, to suit the length of stitch desired, is effected by a
screw and nut, which determines the position of the free end of the feed arm with
respect to its, actuating cam. A horizontal screw pivotted to this feed arm carries
an adjusting nut, which is socketted in the bracket of the presser bar, and serves
to draw the feed arm from, the, cam, while a coiled spring surrounding the screw
gives the feed arm a tendency in the opposite direction.
For the purpose of locking the presser bar in its raised or depressed position,
two cam projections are made on the periphery of the friction clip disc, for rocking
a locking lever. As these.cam surfaces are brought round by the rotation of their
disc, they are caused to bear upon the locking lever, the shorter limb of which is
cam shaped, and stands opposite the edge of the presser bar. The rocking of this
lever causes its cam shaped extremity to bear upon the presser bar and grip it,
whether in its raised or depressed position, thus holding the presser foot firmly to
the work, or retaining the bar in its raised position while the back movement of
the feed foot is taking place.
For facilitating the supply of thread to the shuttle and the threading up of the

page_text: locking thread without removal of the shuttle, or any parts in connection therewith,.
from the machine, the following contrivance is adopted
The shuttle is mounted in a circular horizontal divided race carried by a
bracket support, and it is so enclosed in its bracket support, as to provide free
space for the insertion of the spool into the open top of the horizontal circular
shuttle. The bottom of the shuttle (for a purpose to be presently described) is,
for half its diameter, slotted tangentially, and the inner end of this slot makes a
slight curved return. This tangential slot is continued up through the wall of the
shuttle, and when it is desired to replace an empty cop for a full cop, the slot in the
shuttle is brought into coincidence with the division made through the circular
race. Below the shuttle, and partially covering the slot, is an elastic plate, in the
end of which a curved slot is cut to form a retaining catch for the locking thread.
The attendant, when he has placed the cop in the shuttle, will draw down the free
end of the thread through the slotted wall of the shuttle, and through the
division in the race; then lay it under the elastic plate, hitching it into the curved
slot in that plate. The shuttle thread is then free to be drawn down to the work
support.
To facilitate the delivery of the needle thread loop from the shuttle, two concentric
ridges are formed on the upper part of the shuttle, which ridges are of different
heights, and are arcs of different radii; the higher ridge first receives the loop,
and traversing over this, the loop falls onto the lower ridge, which fines off to
nothing, leaving the loop free to drop away from the shuttle. A finger pendent
from the bracket piece, forms an abutment for the loop, and ensures the loop sliding
over the ridges as the shuttle rotates.
The perimeter of the shuttle is formed with a nose for catching the loop as it is
drawn up by the needle, and it has a heel against which the revolving shuttle
driver bears.
Delhi 11 1 T.... 1004
NEWTON & SON,
Agents for the Applicant:
improvements in sewing machines.
I PHILIP ARTHUR NEWTON of The Office for Patents, 6 Bream's Buildings,
Chancery Lane in the County of London, Patent Agent, do hereby declare the
nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be
particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
The sewing machine of the present invention is mainly intended for attaching
soles, and can be fitted with either a revolving horn or a flat work plate. In this
machine, a hooked needle co-acts with a horizontal circular shuttle, which is
supported by a divided ring above the horn or work plate, and carried by a
bracket piece partially enclosing the shuttle.
Furthermore, the circular shuttle is constructed and arranged so that, to fill the
same with a spool of thread, and to thread up the same, it is not necessary to
remove it, or to open the enclosing parts of the shuttle; thus the usual
manipulations, which cause loss of time in threading up, being avoided, the working
capacity of the present machine over others is materially augmented.
The needle thread is supplied, as usual, to the hooked needle from below. The
hooked needle then carries the needle thread loop to the circular shuttle above the
work, and the shuttle carries the spool thread through the loop of the needle
thread, which is then drawn taut by a take-up lever.
Furthermore, the present machine is fitted with a feed which consists, broadly,
of a feeding arm having a toothed foot, and pressing upon the work at the proper
moment, said arm being pivotally mounted on a rising and falling bar secured to

page_text: the head of the machine, for the purpose or imparting a four motion feed
presser foot.
LO LHC
The arrangement for driving the pivotally mounted feed arm is such, that the lift
of the foot can be regulated according to the thickness and nature of the material
to be operated upon, and that independent of the feeding movement of the feed arm.
A most important advantage of this hooked needle machine with its circular
shuttle above the work plate, is that in it the driving of the main parts is effected
by shafts driven from the main shaft by means of mitre wheels and crank shafts,
whereby a continuous rotating movement, as against the reciprocating motion
produced by cams for the main working parts of sewing machines for heavy work,
is secured.
The invention is shown in the accompanying drawings, by way of example, as
applied to a swivel horn machine, which is arranged for use both with steam power
and with foot power, Fig. 1 being a longitudinal vertical section, and Fig. 2 a
front view, partly in section.
For power driving, there is mounted a belt pulley a' loose upon the shaft a,
which is journalled in the upper portion of the framing of the machine. This
pulley a, on depressing the foot lever b, pivotally mounted at 6 in the lower
frame of the machine, is, by means of the connecting rod 6 and bell-crank lever b³,
pressed against the friction disc a', fast on the shaft a. By contact of the rotating
pulley a with the disc a², the shaft a is set in motion.
On releasing the treadle b, the spring & draws it up, and the bell-crank lever b³,
by means of the rod, draws the belt pulley a¹ away from the friction disc a³,
thus stopping the motion of the shaft a.
When it is desired to drive the machine by foot through the treadle b, the rod b
is disconnected therefrom, and from the bell-crank lever ; the spring 64, is also
detached from the treadle. The treadle axle b' is taken out, and inserted at 6º in
the treadle and framing, and the treadle is then coupled up with the disc a²,
end of the rod being connected to the treadle lever at the point 6*, and the
other end to the crank pin a* on the disc a³.
one
The motion of the driving shaft a is transmitted, through mitre wheels a³, to
the vertical shaft c and the horizontal shaft d. On the end of this shaft d there is
mounted a disc d' provided with a bowl which takes into a cam groove in the needle
bar
e, for the purpose of reciprocating the saine.
The disc also operates, by means of a cam which it carries, the feed arm ƒ,
which, by means of its interchangeable toothed foot f¹, operates upon the work x*,
either to feed it forward the length of a stitch, or to hold it upon the horn during
the operation of sewing, as will be hereinafter described.
The vertical shaft c is cranked at c, and from this crank, motion is communicated,
through a rod c³ and link c, to the shuttle driver g¹ (see the detached plan
view Fig. 1A), a radius controlling link fulcrummed on a fixed point being connected
by a pivot pin to the rod c, which is connected pivotally to the link o³.. This link c³
connects with an excentric pin on the upper end of the short shaft g. Through the
rotary motion imparted to the shaft g by the link c, the driver g¹ sets the circular
shuttle h in action. The shuttle is supported and guided by a horizontal divided
ring h³, secured to the pendent bracket h'. In the central space of the shuttle, the
waxed thread cop x (which serves itself as the spool) is loosely laid. The shuttle is
constructed and arranged as will be hereafter described.
On the lower end of the vertical shaft c is mounted a face cam e, by which the
take-up lever c, for the needle thread (mounted in bearings c³) is operated. The
needle thread taken from spool c' passes, on its way to the looper, over a pair of
pullies c³, mounted on the end of the take-up lever, and then over a second pair co,
situate at right angles to the first, and mounted upon a rigid arm immediately
below the swivel horn. i is a tubular shaft which passes through the journal of the
swivel horn, and serves to actuate the looper 2, to which it is connected by a ball
and socket joint, such ball and socket joint consisting of a collar attached to the
shaft and embracing excentrically the ball on the end of the looper **.

page_text: This looper is pivotally mounted' in the horn ¹, and receives the thread
through the tubular shaft i, and lays the thread in the hook of the needle e¹ by the
following means-Upon the lower end of the tubular shaft i, is mounted a toothed
wheel, which gears with another toothed wheel, set in motion by the driving
gear This gear receives its motion from a crank pin on the cam c*.
Rotary motion is thus imparted to the tubular shaft i, which thus, through its
ball and socket connection with the pivotted looper, gives to the looper the
necessary motion for laying the thread in the hook of the needle.
The born is mounted upon a bearing surface composed of a ring of balls x³,
thereby ensuring its easy rotation.
is
The construction and arrangement of the already mentioned circular shuttle
clearly shown in the enlarged views Figs. 3 to 6,-Fig: 3 being an elevation, partly
in section, Fig. 4a plan, view, and Fig. 5 a front view, partly in section, showing
the needle and shuttle in different positions to Figs. 3 and 4, while Fig. 6 is an
inverted plan view of the shuttle.
A's already described, the circular shuttle h, which is mounted in the horizontal
divided ring (and carries the loose spool ) is provided on its periphery with a
nose, to take the loop of thread, and with a heel for the driver g¹ to act upon.
The divided ring is so arranged that the gap: h is at the rear (see Fig...4).
A corresponding gap is provided in the bottom and wall of the shuttle h, which
gap terminates, near the centre of the shuttle, in a hook shaped opening or slot. h.
This hook-shaped termination of the slot is covered, 'on the outer side of the
shuttle, by a forked spring, for a purpose to be presently described:
The pendent bracket h' is provided, at back, with an opening sufficiently large
to admit of the insertion of the cop or spool into the shuttleth, and for the purpose
of threading up, the shuttle is turned so that the gap /* therein, coincides with the
gap' in the supporting ring *.
To thread up, it is only necessary to pass the loose end of the spool thread
through the gaps: h³, when the thread, on being pulled under the spring 4, will' of
itself enter the hooked slot h,, and become threaded, as shown in dotted lines. in
Fig. 6 'the spring he serves to prevent the thread from slipping out of place.
It will now be understood that, for refilling the shuttle and threading it up, it
will no longer be necessary to remove the hot shuttle from the machine.
To facilitate the catching of the loop of thread presented by the hooked
needle, the shuttle is provided with a raised edge h', and a sloping edge h³, between
which a rigid finger, carried by the pendent bracket, acts, on the rotationi of
the shuttle h, so that the needle loop is compelled to rise onto the edge ', and finally
falls onto the sloping edge, he, and leaves the shuttle.
The pendent bracket is likewise provided, at front, with an opening, so that
the shuttle thread can be inspected, and the renewal thereof can be effected without
any great delay,, when requisite.
The feed mechanism above mentioned is clearly illustrated in Figs. 7 to 9; which
show the saine in two front views, with the cover plate removed, Fig. 7 showing
the depressed' position of the feed bar, and Fig. 8 its raised position, while. Fig: 9
shows in plan view the mechanism for operating the feed. Fig. 10 are diagrams
illustrating the motions of the presser foot.
.
The lever, which is provided with an interchangeable foot, is pivotted at
to a bar. k, which slides vertically in the head z ' of the machine. This bark is
normally drawn downward by the spiral spring, so' that the toothed. feeding, and
pressing foot is pressed down upon the work *.
To impart a forward motion to the work, the lever must be swung outwards,
which movement, as above described; is accomplished by the camd, carried by the
disc d on the shaft d pressing against the upper end of the lever.
The rotation of the shaft d sets the disc d' with the cam in motion,. with the
result that the cam at the proper time operates upon the upper end of the lever f
so that its lower end with the foot is swung toward the front, and the work is thus
moved forward. The return notion of the lever fis effected after having been

page_text: lifted with the bar from the work (as will be explained farther on) by the
pressure of a spring I mounted upon a screw spindle , one end of which has its.
bearing in a bracket attached to the bar k, while the other end is jointed to the
lever f
The outer end of this screw is fitted with a nut which is mounted in the
bracket 3.
will be
By turning this nut 1, the amount of distance between the lever fand the cam
can be adjusted, and thereby the amount of swing imparted to the lever
augmented or reduced, according to the length of stitch desired.
On the
Upon the shaft d is a second disc d, in one piece with the disc d'.
periphery of this disc a lever m, carrying a bowl at its end, rests. This lever is
fulcrummed at m', and is camshaped for the purpose of acting upon the presser and
feed bar. The periphery of the disc is provided with camlike projections d*, so
that, on the rise of the bowl of the lever m over the same, the cam shaped end of
that lever will jam against the bar k, and hold the same at the required moment in
its raised position against the pull of the spring ³.
When a cam projection has passed under the bowl, the arm m releases the bar k,
and the spring again comes into operation.
To effect the necessary periodical lifting of the bark and lever f, there is fixed at
the back of the disc do a friction clip n, which is carried round by its disc, and
presses against a V edged disc o mounted in bearings in the head of the machine.
The disc o has a slot o' to receive an adjustable pin o, which enters a slot. in
the bar k.
During the contact of the friction clip n with the disc o, the latter is partially
rotated, with the result, that the disc being connected to the bar k, lifts this latter
against the pull of the spring * (see Fig. 8, which also shews the action of the
arm m upon the lever k while in its raised position).
By adjusting the bowl o' in the slot o' of the disc o, the forward motion of the
bark and the feed arm can be regulated according to the quality of the work, the
adjustment being so made that, for materials with hard surfaces, a less, and for
those with soft surfaces, a greater, travel is given.
On the cover plate of the head of the machine (not shewn) may be mounted, in
the usual way, an ordinary hand lever to lift the feed and presser foot f by hand,
as may be necessary.
The feed and presser foot is lowered from the raised position Fig. 8 by the
spring onto the work, and the disc o brought back to its normal position, as
soon as the action of the arm m ceases by its bowl falling over the cam projection d*
on the disc dº.
By increasing or reducing the tension of the spring k³, the descent of the
lever k, or rather the pressure of the feed foot fupon the work, may be readily
adjusted.
The operation of the feed is effected in the following manner :-The spring k²,
through the bar k, presses the foot f¹ down upon the work, and it is pushed forward
the length of a stitch by the cam d' acting on the feed lever f. The bark is then
lifted by the friction clip n, o, and the feed leverf is drawn back by the spring l, to
recommence the same series of movements.
The feed and presser foot can, it will be understood, be adjusted in its rising and
falling motion, independently of its backward and forward motion (which
determines the length of stitch), by the adjustable friction driving gear.
This friction driving gear n, o, provides, in consequence of the rolling motion
thereby obtained, the greatest security for the correct and timely raising of the
feed foot.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed (as communicated to me
from abroad), I declare that what I claim is :—
1
A sewing machine, principally for boot, shoe, and other heavy work, in which

page_text: a circular shuttle h, mounted in a divided horizontal ring, is placed above-the
work plate or horn, and operates in combination with a hooked needle.
2. A sewing machine, in which the shuttle arranged as stated in Claim 1, and
the divided horizontal ring / carrying it, are furnished with a radially formed
sloth, to allow of laying the spool or shuttle thread through this opening in a
hook or other shaped slot in the bottom of the shuttle, while the pendent bracket
piece, carrying the ring and shuttle, is provided with an opening sufficiently
large to admit of placing the cop or spool of thread in the centre of the shuttle,
without necessitating the removal thereof, and the preparatory removal of enclosing
parts.
3. In a boot and shoe sewing machine having a four-motion feed, the
arrangement of mechanism described for adjusting the movements of the feed arm
and raising the feed foot (pressed down upon the work by a spring k³), such mechanism
consisting of a rotating friction clip n, which intermittently drives a friction disco,
said disc being adjustably connected to the bar k carrying the feed arm and presser
foot.
4. Iu combination with a feed mechanism of the kind claimed in Claim 3, the
locking apparatus do, d*, m and m', which acts upon the bar k, for the purpose above
.set forth.
T
...
1
NEWTON & SON,
Agents for the Applicant.