IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES AND ACCESSORIES THEREFOR
Year: 1879

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to John Henry Johnson, of 47, Lincoln's Inn Fields, in the
County of Middlesex, Gentleman, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN
SEWING MACHINES AND ACCESSORIES THEREFOR." A communication from
abroad by Charles H. Willcox, of New York City, United States of America.
Sealed the 4th April 1879, and dated the 4th February 1879.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION filed by the said John Henry Johnson at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 4th February 1879.
"
JOHN HENRY JOHNSON, of 47, Lincoln's Inn Fields, in the County of Middlesex,
Gentleman. "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES AND ACCESSORIES THEREFOR.'
A. communication from abroad by Charles H. Willcox, of New York City, United
States of America.
This Invention relates to machines for sewing various materials, more particu-
larly to the kind known as straw-hat sewing machines, which are adapted to sew
a continuous plait or braid of straw upon itself to form a hat. In this class of sewing
machines there were heretofore certain practical difficulties and objections in the way
of the successful use of the machines for the purpose intended. The nature of
these objections and the manner in which they have been overcome will be clearly
understood from the description of the construction and operation of the improve-
ments which form the subject of the present Invention.
The Invention consists,-
First. In a feed movement in which the feed surface is given the usual move-
ment required in feeding, one eccentric producing the vertical as well as the back-
ward and forward movement, which can be varied as required by suitable devices,
thus making all the movements positive and dispensing with the use of the spring
usually employed to return the feed bar and maintain it in contact with the
eccentric or cam producing the feed movement.
Second. In the location of the feed movements except the arm necessary to carry
the feed surface sufficiently far to one side, so that the space necessary in which to
produce a good and practical movement is not limited, whilst at the same admitting
of a small throat plate cylinder extending as far towards the feed movement as the
nature of the work requires.
Third. In a method of adjusting the height of the feed surface.
Fourth. Of a vibrator or device for the purpose of intermittently relieving the
pressure of the foot in order to facilitate the turning of the work, the said device
being adapted to be put into or out of action while the machine is in motion.
Fifth. In the special construction and arrangement of the vibrator and its
parts.

page_text: Sixth. In the combination of the vibrator with the essential elements of a straw
_ sewing machine, commencing a hat at the centre or tip.
Seventh. Of a friction pad made to hold the thread taut or release it auto-
matically at the proper time, the said pad consisting of a special construction
and arrangement of parts.
Eighth. In the combination with the spool holder adapted to deliver the thread
from the spool without the turning of the latter of a device to ensure the proper
delivery of the thread by preventing any coils which may spring out from the
spool from escaping over the end.
Ninth. In the special attachment and adjustment of the work guide upon the
foot by a single screw.
Tenth. In the combination of a work guide and separator plate with particular
devices for adjusting and holding the same.
Eleventh. Of the guide and separator plate provided with a projection adapted to
form when in position on the foot a continuation thereof, to prevent the work from
curling up and to ensure the stitches being made at the proper distance from the
edges.
Twelfth. Of a plait guide adapted to embrace both edges of the plait or other
material, the guide for the outer edge remaining stationary, while the guide for the
inner edge is adjusted upon it as required for the width of the plait, the stationary
part of the guide serving also to hold the plait to the throat plate, all as herein-
after more fully described.
And in order that the said Invention may be fully understood, I shall now
proceed more particularly to describe the same, and for that purpose shall refer to
the several Figures on the annexed Sheets of Drawings, the saine letters of reference
indicating corresponding parts in all the Figures.
Figure 1 (Sheet 1) of the accompanying Drawings is a front elevation.
Figure 2, an end elevation; and
Figure 3, a plan of a Willcox and Gibbs' sewing machine with the improvements
formning the subject of the said Invention applied thereto.
Figure 4 is a plan.
Figure 5 an end elevation; and
Figure 6, a front elevation partly in section of the feed movement.
Figure 7 is a plan.
Figure 8, a side elevation.
Figure 9, a front elevation of the vibrator, the supporting frame being shewn
partly in section.
Figure 10 is a plan.
Figure 11, a side elevation; and
Figure 12, a front elevation of the friction pad, showing the operating rod and a
portion of the frame to which the friction pad is attached.
Figure 13 is a side view of the spool holder partly in section.
The foot and work guide are shown in detail on a large scale in Sheet 2 of the
Drawings.
Figure 14 is a plan.
Figure 15, a side elevation; and
Figure 16, a front elevation in which these parts are clearly shewn together with
the method of adjustment of the work guide upon the foot, and of securing the
same firmly.
Figure 17 is a plan.
Figure 18, a side elevation.
Figure 19, a rear elevation; and
Figure 20, a front elevation of the work guide for medium and heavy plait.
Figure 21 is a plan.
Figure 22, a side elevation.
Figure 23, a front elevation; and
Figure 24, a rear clevation of the foot.

page_text: Figure 27, a front elevation; and
Figure 28, a rear elevation of the work guide for chip and other thin plaits, which
has modifications to adapt it to the work.
The frame A is like that used in the Willcox and Gibbs' machines modified only
so far as necessary to introduce the improvements herein-after described. As the
general construction of these machines is so well known it needs no particular
description here. I will therefore proceed to the description of the several im-
provements shewn.
The feed movement is shown in detail in Figures 4, 5, and 6.
Two ears extend from the rear side of the frame A, to which is hinged by pins
61, 61, the feed rocker R, which is also in turn hinged at its upper side to the feed
bar B by means of the two pins 61, 6, all the pins being fastened into the rocker
by set screws. The feed rocker R has a slotted flange, to which is fastened by
means of a nut the stud x in any desired position. The stud carries one end of
the feed rod D, which at the other end encircles the eccentric X attached to the
shaft y of the machine. The outside of the feed rod D is fitted within the forked
end of the feed bar B, so that by turning the shaft y of the machine the feed bar B
is given a vertical as well as a backward and forward movement, the latter depending
upon the position of the stud x in the feed rocker R.
The feed bar B carries upon its projecting arm the slide E upon which is a tongue
working in a vertical groove in the feed bar B. The slide E is attached to the feed
bar by a screw and spring washer holding it securely in any position, while it is
given a vertical adjustment by means of the thumbscrew O, which is screwed into
a hole tapped in E, and has upon it a turned flange or collar which works in a
grooved recess in B.
The feed surface F is attached to the slide E, and is thus raised or lowered at
pleasure in order to adapt the machine to various work or to admit of re-sharpening
the feed surface.
The whole of the feed inovement is carried sufficiently far to the right to admit
of the widest plaits being sewn without having the edge of the work come in
contact with any part of the movement. The only portion of the feed bar B pro-
jecting under the throat plate being the arm carrying feed surface F, the throat
plate can be reduced to the smallest practicable dimensions to admit of sewing a
very small cylinder. The feed eccentric X being also to the right of the shaft
bearing it, is removed from the wear caused by particles of straw working into the
bearings when near the needle and looper.
By this arrangement no spring is required, the movement of the feed in every
direction being positive, while the length of the stitch can be varied at pleasure.
The distance apart of the bearings of the rocker in the frame, and of the feed bar
upon the rocker prevent any practical difficulty from the action of the feed eccentric
being so far removed from where the feed surface takes hold of the work. This
arrangement permitting the back end of the feed bar B to be suspended so far to
the rear of where the feed surface is attached the rise and fall of the feed is
practically vertical and the upper surface of the feed surface comes up to and
remains while feeding the work practically parallel with the under surface of the
foot M, a result which is not obtained in what may be called the Bland arrangement,
where the feed block carrying the feed surface is rocked upon the stud screwed into
the crank of a rocker shaft, thus giving the upper surface of feed surface while
feeding a heel and toe or changing movement.
The vibrator is shown in detail in Figures 7, 8, and 9.
A is a portion of the frame carrying the counterbored boss c', into which is secured
the stud w upon which the vibrator V works. The bent wire spring e is attached
to the boss by a nut f screwed upon the projecting end of the stud w. The free
end of the spring passes through a hole in the vibrator and causes it to bear against
the frame opposite the spring e, as shewn in Figure 9. The vibrator is, counter-

page_text: bored for the head of the stud w so as to permit it to be brought forward from the
_position_shown when out of action by the dotted lines in Figure 8, into the position
shown by full lines when by the downward motion of the lever L the stud d strikes
the upper arm of the vibrator and causes the under arm, by bearing against the
adjusting screw a, to lift the foot M from-contact with the work by means of the
connection-of-the foot-bar J to the plunger b, to which it is attached by the foot
bar screw-g
•
The spring e by means of the angular bend near its end either holds the vibrator
out in position to be struck by the pin d, or into the counterbored recess in the
boss when its action is not desired. The necessary adjustinent to lift the foot for
various thicknesses of work is made by the adjusting screw a, which is split in
order to cause it to work with sufficient friction in a tapped hole in the plunger b,
so that the action of the vibrator will not cause it to turn in the hole.
In commencing a hat at the centre of the "tip," it is necessary to start a
"button" or centre, sewing it by hand, before the feed of the machine can take hold
and advance the work. Another difficulty is found in endeavouring under pressure
of the foot upon the feed surface and throat plate to turn the tip in the small circle
required when sewing so near to the centre of the tip. The object of the above
improvement is to cause the foot to lift just clear of the work at the downward
movement of the lever, its upward movement allowing the foot to return in contact
with the work ready for the action of the feed, the work when the pressure of the
foot is relieved being readily turned to any extent, thus enabling the machine to
start without a "button," or with a much smaller one than is usually required.
It also prevents the opening of the plait when sewing "chip," tape, or other
delicate braid caused by attempting to turn it under the usual pressure of the foot.
The pressure of the foot being intermittently relieved from the work also allows
the "tip" to be sewed perfectly flat if desired.
The vibrator can be put into or out of action while the machine is in motion, so
that when the "tip" is sewed of sufficient diameter to no longer require its use a
touch'at the centre of the vibrator throws it back and out of action where it is held
by the spring e.
Devices for intermittently relieving the pressure of the foot in order to facilitate
turning the work in ordinary sewing machines are not new so I make no claim
broadly to such device.
The friction pad is shown in detail in Figures 10, 11, and 12. It is composed of
the back plate U, spring Q, shield P, and pad Z, and is attached to the frame by
the screw a', which by the peculiar construction binds the spring between the back
plate and the shield, and at the same time attaches the whole firmly together and
to the frame. A teat pin on the pad Z projects through the back plate Ū, and into
a hole made for it in the frame, thus forming a steady pin.
.
Through-a-hole-in-the frame A and in the back plate U works a rod y, which is
given an end motion by its connection with the lever L at e', Figures 1 and 3, its
object being to push the spring Q away from contact with the pad Z at or about
the time when the eye of the needle reaches the surface of the throat plate d', and
so release the thread which until that time has been held by the spring against the
pad. This action is clearly shown in Figure 10.
The purpose of the friction pad is to maintain the thread taut until the needle
has fairly entered the work, after which its pressure must be removed in order
permit a proper loop to be thrown for the looper H to enter.
A friction pad made to open and release the thread at the proper time has been
in use for a long time upon the Willcox and Gibbs machines, but it soon wears so as
to lose its proper action and requires renewal or adjustment. I therefore do not
intend to claim this action as my Invention.
Durability and simplicity of parts are obtained by this construction and arrange-
ment of parts..
L
The shield P has a slot at its forward end in which the bent end of the spring
Q is always shielded, so that in wiping the machine there is no danger of bending.

page_text: or injuring it. From the construction of the parts it will be seen that the proper
time of opening of the friction pad will not be affected materially by any wear of
the machine, as the motion of the rod Y is very slight and only touches the spring
to relieve the pressure on the thread. A portion of the back plate U is bent over
and has a slot which retains the thread in its proper position between the spring Q
and the pad Z.
If the spring and pad should become cut in by the friction of the thread they
can readily and cheaply be exchanged for new parts, and the friction pad be thus
restored to proper working order without other adjustment.
The spool holder is shown detached in Figure 13. The device upon which this is
an improvement consists of the holder h, which is attached to the frame of the
machine and holds at its end by means of a clamp the pin i, to one end of which is
attached a capped disc l, the thread being unwound from the spool without turning
it by being pulled in line with the axis of the pin i, the thread bearing against the
periphery of the disc as it unwinds, as shewn clearly in Figure 1, where S repre-
sents the spool of thread.
In commencing a new spool, specially of hard finish or glacé thread, there is
found to be a great tendency for the coils near the outer end of the spool to uncoil
and fall down and around the pin i, thus preventing the proper delivery of the
thread and causing it to break.
The object of the present improvement is to prevent this, which is attained by
means of the disc j attached firmly to the sleeve, which fits loosely upon the pin i.
The spool is placed upon the sleeve k, and the pin is then passed through
the sleeve and fastened into the holder h, the angle at which the pin i stands
causing the disc j always to remain in contact with the outer end of the spool S,
the flange upon the disc j preventing the coils as they spring out from the spool
from escaping over the end.
Although the particular method of bringing into action the disc j in combination
with the spool holder is doubtless the most convenient form, yet I do not wish to
confine myself strictly to this construction, as the same effect would be obtained if
the disc j were permanently attached to the holder h, and the pin i adjusted length-
wise in the holder h, so as to leave just sufficient room for the spool S between the
two discs, or the discj may be attached by friction or a set screw to the pin i in
any desired position.
The work guide and separator plate is shewn in connection with the foot in
Figures 14 to 28 inclusive.
The object of the improvement is to provide a convenient and secure method of
attaching the work guide to the foot and adjusting it thereon, using but one screw
which is so arranged that it can be fastened firmly to resist the tendency of the
vibration caused by the action of the feed to loosen or move it from its proper
position.
The foot M which is attached to the foot bar j by the nut q has milled into its under
side a groove v, into which is fitted the tongue o of the work guide K. In the foot
M is a slot through which passes the thumbscrew r, which screws into a hole tapped
through the tongue o of the work guide and by means of a washer s clamps the two
firmly together, the thumbscrew being prepared so that by means of a wrench it
may be very tightly fastened if required. The upper surface of the tongue o bears
against the bottom of the groove v in the foot, the thin edge of the work guide u
at the same time just bearing against the under side of the foot to form the guide
for the edge of the work, the whole being so arranged that the greatest movement
of the work guide never uncovers the groove in the foot, thus leaving a good
surface for the feed to act against in feeding the work.
In the work guide for medium and heavy plait there is a pin n which is intended
to hold the edge of the work so that it will enter under the foot M. This is omitted in
the work guide for, chip, and in place thereof a small projection t is attached to the
face of the work guide, which, when placed in position on the foot forms, a continua-..

page_text: tion with the toe of the foot M, and holds the edge of the work from curling up
and insures the stitches being inade-at-the-distance from the edge at which the
work guide is adjusted.
The thin edge u is made much thinner, as this should never exceed the thickness
of the plait being sewn so that the feed may take hold of the plait where lapped
and sewn together and not feed upon the entering plait alone, which it would do
if the edge u of the work guide were thicker than the plait. This also permits the
foot to bear upon the work around the needle hole in the-throat plate as the needle
penetrates it.
The separate plate p which should always be as near to the needle as possible in
order to prevent the work from escaping under the work guide, it will also be
observed is brought much nearer to the needle than in the other work guide, as the
space between the separator plate and toe of the foot in thin work can be much
reduced. Space sufficient to permit the passage of two thicknesses at least of the
plait always being required, the small projection t on the work guide for chip
forming the continuation of the toe of the foot M. admits of the work guide being
moved and still hold the edge of the plait down while being sewn.
The plait guide is shown attached to the machine in Figures 1, 2, and 3.' The
peculiarity of this guide consists in the pin I, which has its outer end bent down to
form a guide for the outer edge of the plait. The pin I passes freely through a hole
in the flange of the plait guide G, and is attached to a washer f', which has a hole
in it fitting the body of the thumbscrew g', by means of which the plait guide is
adjusted and secured to the frame.
By this arrangement the bent end of the pin I which serves only to hold the plait
against the flange of the plait guide G always remains in the same position, while
the position of the guide may be varied to suit the various widths of the plait, and
no adjustment of the pin is required. The plait can be readily inserted or removed
by passing it edgewise between the bent end of the pin I and the lower edge of the
throat plate d'. The direction from which the plait is brought from the reel
prevents any dendency for the plait to escape from its position between the bent
end of the pin I and the face of the plait guide G. The inner surface of the bent
end of the pin I always holds the plait sufficiently to the right so that its inner edge
is maintained against the plait guide as it feeds in under the work guide and the foot.
Adjustable guides to embrace both edges of the plait or other material in sewing
machines are not novel, I therefore only desire to claim the peculiar arrangement
shown and described, by which the guide for the outer edge of the plait remains
stationary, while the guide for the inner edge is adjusted upon it as required for
the width of the plait; the pin I also serving to hold the plait as it enters the
machine from springing up and escaping over the edge of the plait guide.
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of the said Inven-
tion, and the manner in which the same is or may be used or carried into effect,
I would observe in conclusion that what I consider to be novel and original,
and therefore claim as the Invention secured to me is,―
First. The herein-described feed movement adapted to be operated with a vertical
as well as a backward and forward movement by one eccentric, all the said move-
ments being positive, the same consisting in the combination with the operating
cain and feed bar, of mechanism for supporting the feed bar and regulating its
motions so that practically the rise and fall thereof are vertical and the feed surface
comes up to and remains while feeding the work parallel with the under side of the
foot, and of means for communicating the movement of the eccentric to the feed bar,
and for varying the amount of motion of the feed backward and forward, com-
municated by the eccentric, substantially as herein-before described.
Second. The combination with a feed rocker binged to the machine frame, and a
feed rod encircling an eccentric at one end and attached at the other end to the feed
rocker by means of a loose connection adjustable as described, of a feed bar secured
at one end by a hinged joint to the feed rocker, and at the other fitting over the

page_text: outside of the feed rod encircling the eccentric by means of a fork in the end, the
feed being connected with the said feed bar, substantially as herein-before
described.
Third. The feed bar provided with an arm carrying a feed surface and extending
under the throat plate in combination with mechanism adapted to impart thereto
the movements required to feed the work, the feed bar and operating mechanism
being located at a suitable distance at the side, substantially as and for the purposes
herein-before described.
Fourth. The combination in a sewing machine with an eccentric feed rod
encircling the same, and a feed rocker connected with the feed rod by an adjustable
loose connection, of a feed bar forked at one end and provided with an arm carrying
the feed surface, the forked end of the said feed bar fitting over the feed rod
encirling the eccentric, the opposite end being connected by a hinge joint to the feed
rocker and the arm carrying the feed surface extending under the throat plate for
the required distance, substantially as herein-before described.
Fifth. In combination with the feeding mechanism of a sewing machine the feed
surface adjustable vertically or in a direction perpendicular to the plane in which
the work is fed, substantially as herein-before described.
Sixth. The feed surface attached to a slide working in a groove or grooves in
the feed bar and adjustably secured therein, in combination with operating
mechanism for imparting thereto the motions required in feeding the work, sub-
stantially as herein-before described.
Seventh. The combination in a sewing machine with an eccentric, a feed bar and
intermediate mechanism for imparting to the said feed bar a rising-and-falling, and
back-and-forth motion from the movement of the eccentric, of a feed surface attached
to a slide adjustably secured to an arm or projection on the said feed bar, sub-
stantially as herein-before described.
Eighth. The herein-described vibrator for sewing machines or device to inter-
mittently relieve the pressure of the foot, adapted to be put into or out of action
while the machine is in motion, substantially as herein-before described.
Ninth. The combination with the foot and foot bar of a sewing machine and
the spring to press the same downward upon the work, of a vibrator secured to the
machine frame by a pin upon which it is free to vibrate and on which it is also
capable of a sidewise motion, a spring to retain the vibrator in position in or
out of action, on the pin, and operating mechanism, substantially as herein-before
described.
Tenth. The combination with the foot and foot bar of a sewing machine and
a vibrator of an adjustable screw or projection against which one arm of the said
vibrator bears to lift the foot at intervals from contact with the work, substantially
as herein-before described.
Eleventh. The combination in a straw sewing machine commencing a hat at
the centre or tip with the foot and work guide secured thereto, of a vibrator
adapted to automatically relieve the pressure of the foot at intervals, substantially as
herein-before described.
Twelfth. The hercin-described friction pad for holding the thread taut and
automatically releasing it at the proper time, the same consisting of a pad and
spring between which the thread is passed and a rod operated by the motion of the
needle moving lever to press back the spring and release the thread, substantially
as herein-before described.
Thirteenth. In a friction pad for sewing machines the combination of a pad
having a teat pin resting in a hole in the frame and a spring pressed by its own
elasticity against the face of the pad to retain the thread in position thereon, sub-
stantially as hercin-before described. .
Fourteenth. The combination in a friction pad with the pad having a teat pin
resting in a hole in the frame of the spring and shield, substantially as herein.
before described.

page_text: Fifteenth. A friction pad for sewing machines composed of a pad having a teat
pin, a spring and shield, a back plate-with-or-without a slotted bent-over portion to
retain the thread in the proper position-between the spring and pad, the several
parts being secured to the frame of the machine by a single screw and a steady pin
formed by the teat pin of the pad projecting through the back plate into a hole in
-the-frame,.substantially as herein-before described.
Sixteenth. The combination with a spool holder of the character described of a
flanged disc for the purpose of preventing the coils of thread as they spring out.
from the spool in unwinding from escaping over the end, substantially as herein-
before described.
Seventeenth. The combined foot and work guide consisting of the foot and work
guide adjustably secured together by means of a tongue and groove and a single
set screw working through a slot, substantially as herein-before described.
Eighteenth. The combination of a work guide and separator plate provided with
a tongue and the foot of a sewing machine having a groove on the under side thereof,
and a slot cut through the same above the groove, with a thumbscrew passing
through the slot and screwing into a hole in the tongue on the guide and separator
plate to secure the same to the foot in an adjustable manner, the whole being
arranged so that the greatest movement of the work guide never uncovers the
groove in the foot, substantially as hercin-before described.
Nineteenth. A work guide and separator plate, adapted to be adjustably secured
to the foot of a sewing machine and provided with a projection arranged to form a
continuation of the foot when the guide is secured in position thereon, substantially
as herein-before described.
Twentieth. A plait guide adapted to embrace both edges of the plait or other
material, the same consisting of a stationary guide for the outer edge and a guide
for the inner edge adjustable thereon, the stationary part of the guide serving also
to hold the plait to the throat plate, substantially as herein-before described.
Twenty-first. The combination to form a plait guide of a pin having its outer
end bent down to form a guide for the outer edge of the plait, the plait guide
proper and a thumbscrew, the pin passing through a hole in the flange of the guide
and attached at its inner end to a washer, through the hole in which passes the
thumbscrew by means of which the guide is adjusted and secured to the frame,
substantially as herein-before described.
In witness whereof, I, the said John Henry Johnson, have to this my Complete
Specification set my hand and seal, this Thirtieth day of January, One
thousand eight hundred and seventy-nine.
J. HENRY JOHNSON. (L.S.)