Improvements in Means for Drafting Dress Patterns.
Year: 1889

page_text: Date of Application, 26th Apr., 1889
Complete Specification Left, 22nd May, 1889-Accepted, 30th Nov., 1889
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Means for Drafting Dress Patterns.
Mrs. PHOEBE HUTCHINSON, Lodge Gate, Denholme, near Bradford, Yorkshire,
Wife of Schoolmaster, do hereby declare the nature of said invention for DRAFTING
DRESS PATTERNS, to be as follows:-
In three parts.-Sheet 1. A To be cut out. B. Neck sizes. C. Shoulder sizes.
D Chest sizes.
E Arm hole sizes. F Front inch measure. G Front waist gore
measure. H Waist size measure. I Centre line of side waist gore. J Side piece.
K Front waist. L Lappet lines. M Sizes to regulate width of lappet.
Sheet 2. A To be cut out.
sizes. E Back inch measure.
B Neck sizes. C Shoulder sizes. D Back chest
F Waist measure. G Back lappet sizes.
Sheet 3.-A To be cut out. B Top of sleeve sizes. C Length of sleeve measure.
D Width of elbow sizes. E Wrist sizes. F Collar sizes. G Under arm line.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION (AMENDED).
Improvements in Means for Drafting Dress Patterns.
PHOEBE HUTCHINSON, Lodge Gate, Denholme, near Bradford, Yorkshire, Wife of
Schoolmaster, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement:-
My invention consists in a new and novel way of taking measurements of the body
preparatory to marking on material, and cutting out the various articles of dress
required.
In carrying out my invention I employ a new form of instrument or templet,
marked with gradations for the purpose of taking the exact measurements. Fig. 1
represents the outline of the instrument, preferably composed of thin metal and
made in skeleton form, for the purpose of measuring the neck, chest, and waist of
the body. In the accompanying drawing the circles marked a represent inches whilst
the circles marked 6 represent parts of inches. For the sake of clearness I propose
to mark that part of the instrument employed to measure the neck with the alphabet,
and also the chest marking part of the instrument with the alphabet, as indicated
by the letters marked thereon. In using the instrument shewn at Fig. 1, the parts
marked A and B are used to measure the neck of the person. The smallest size of
neck provided for by the instrument is 8 inches taken between points from S to T as
indicated by dotted lines in Fig. 1, to mark which the small letter A is used, the line
continued up to T and around the back from U to V in Fig. 2; for 9 inches the
perforation marked B is used and so on, the perforations from large A to B in
Fig. 1 being used for the largest size. In order to measure the length of the waist,
I use the front of the instrument from C to D, and the lappet from D to E, also down
the front. In measuring the length of shoulder, the inclined part from B to F is
taken, and for the depth of shoulder from F to G. In taking the depth of chest, I

page_text: take from H to I, and for width of chest across the instrument from I to J. For
taking the length of the side piece I employ the part of the instrument marked
from K to L; and for obtaining the width of the side piece I take the sizes from L
to M and K to J; and for taking the size of lappet length, I measure from M to N.
For taking width of waist the part marked from M to D is employed. The
perforations from D to O represent the waist gore sizes or parts in inches to be
taken out of that left over from the waist size. The part marked P is employed to
regulate the width of the lappet. The perforations shewn at Q are employed to
measure the depth of waist gore. The large circles R are holes employed to suspend
the measuring device in any convenient place.
For measuring the back part of the boily I employ the instrument shewn at Fig. 2.
The perforations marked thereon are used in the same manner as already described
with reference to Fig. 1. The space from A to B is employed to measure the back
part of the neck; and for the depth of shoulder c to d. For measuring the length of
shoulder, from В to D. For obtaining the depth of waist, I measure in front of the
instrument from A to E; for depth of chest from S to the alphabet near to F; for
width of chest from F to G; for width of waist E to H; for taking the length of
side-waist from H to G. For shaping the arm-hole, I take the parts from G to D.
For taking the side-waist line, I place instrument shewn at Fig. 1, and the curved
line from E is used, first putting curve of point R to point I of Fig. 2, and the part
of the curve from R to E is put at J, and the dotted lines shewn would indicate the
curve of the side-piece. For finding the length of the lappet, I measure from E to K
in Fig. 2; and for taking the length of the inner lappet, I make marks at L, M, N,
and O, then take the length of lappets from J to N. From e to fare width of lappet
sizes. In taking width of lappets I place P to M and mark Q and T. The lappets
are formed by drawing straight lines from J to Q and from H to T ; but in marking
off from L to O, the instrument itself must be employed putting point G to L and H
to 0, when the desired curve line can be formed.
We will now turn to Fig. 3, and this represents an instrument to be employed for
taking measurements for the sleeve. In using this instrument for taking the length
of sleeve required, I mark from A to B; for width of top part of sleeve, I use the
graduations from A to C; and for taking the size of the inner top part of the sleeve,
I take the gradation marked from E to F. For taking the height of shoulder, I
mark 1, 2, or 3 at G as required. For taking the width of elbow, I take the
gradations from B to W; and for taking length of sleeve, i.e., from elbow to
extreme end of sleeve, I take from B to H; and for taking the size of wrist, I use
gradations from H to I. The curved lines from G to C and from G to F are used
to mark the top of the shoulder on the topside sleeve. The lines from W to F, and
from B to C, B to H, W to I, and H to I, are used to mark the shape of the sleeve.
For forming the underside of the sleeve, make marks at L, F, M, N, I, and W;
place curved line D on the inside skeleton framework in such a position as to join the
parts marked L and M. The line from I to W is then placed in such a position upon
the material as to join points M and N to form the outside line of the underside
sleeve. The line F WI is used to form the inside line of the underside sleeve in the
same manner as that of the top side. The line P is placed for joining the points L
and F, and a line drawn along it forms the curve for the top of the underside sleeve.
For taking the size of collar neck-band, I use gradations from J to K in Fig. 3.
Having now described the nature of my invention and shewn by drawings how the
same may be carried into practice, I would remark that the instruments gradated in
the manner shewn and described will greatly facilitate the taking of measurements in
sizes, and for forming exact configuration of the parts required; it must also be
understood that whilst the description herein given refers to laying out the pattern of
the garment required, that the same operation is gone through for taking sizes and
shapes of the linings, and that the designs and measurements may be marked either
upon paper or linen or other suitable material. I would also observe that I do not

page_text: wish to limit myself to all the details shewn and described herein, nor to the mode of
procedure illustrated, but what I believe to be new and therefore claim as my
invention is:-
The use of an instrument, templet, or model, The Model of dress pattern in three
parts, made in framework and with graduated to take the necessary sizes of the body
across the chest, waist, elbow and wrist, top part of sleeve, also at neck, lappets, and
shoulder, and for depth of chest, in position for marking, arranged substantially as
described in the Specification and shewn in the drawings.
Dated this 1at day of November 1889
TASKER & CROSSLEY,
Bradford & Halifax, Agents for Applicant.