IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BUTTONS
Year: 1856

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Edwin Green, of Birmingham, in the County of
Warwick, Manufacturer, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE
MANUFACTURE OF BUTTONS."
Sealed the 16th December 1856, and dated the 2nd July 1856.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Edwin Green at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the.
2nd July 1856.
I, EDWIN GREEN, of Birmingham, in the County of Warwick, Manufacturer,
do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
THE MANUFACTURE OF BUTTONS," to be as follows:-
My said improvements consist, firstly, in the construction of flexible shank
buttons, the foundation of which is composed of metal, which metal is to be
wholly or partially covered with a woven fabric. The tuft or flexible shank of
the button I cause to be held firmly between two flanges, one of which I form
on the front and the other on the back shell of the button.
Secondly, in constructing buttons with a metallic bar or shank, formed on
the front or back shell, one shell having a circular hole pierced through the
centre, the other having two or more portions of circles pierced out, thus
forming a bar or cross in the centre of the hole; or I pierce two or more
holes in one of the shells. This button I cover with linen or other woven
material. Instead of covering the metal, of which the shells of the button are

page_text: composed, wholly with a woven fabric, I sometimes pierce the centre of the
fabric for covering the back of the button, through which perforation I insert a
flange, formed on the back shell, which flange I turn down over the fabric and
form an eyelet hole in the centre of the button; or I form the front and back
shells of the button into an eyelet hole, in which case I insert a bar of loose
wire between the two shells to form the shank of the button.
And, thirdly, for improvements in the formation of metal buttons; which
improvements consist in piercing the front and back shell of the button with
two, three, or four holes, corresponding with each other and near the centre;
after which I emboss or recess the front and back shells, either concentric
with the button itself, or the three holes may be embossed or indented at a
little distance around and concentric with the holes themselves; or, where I
pierce the shells with two holes, I emboss or indent the front and back shells
in an oval form, embracing the two holes.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Edwin Green in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 17th
December 1856.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, EDWIN
GREEN, of Birmingham, in the County of Warwick, Manufacturer, send
greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Second day of July, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and fifty-six, in the twentieth year of Her reign, did,
for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the said
Edwin Green, Her special licence that I, the said Edwin Green, my execu-
tors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Edwin Green,
my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with, and
no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the term therein
expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within
the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and
Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BUTTONS,"
upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said Edwin Green, my
executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their,
or one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to bo

page_text: performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office
within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said
Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Edwin Green, do hereby declare the
nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement thereof, that is to say:-
My said improvements consist, firstly, in the construction of flexible shank
buttons, the foundation of which is composed of metal, which said metal is to
be wholly or partially covered with a woven fabric. The tuft or flexible shank
of the button I cause to be held firmly between two flanges, one of which I
form on the front and the other on the back shell of the button.
Secondly, in constructing buttons with a metallic bar or shank, formed of
the front or back shell, one shell having a circular hole pierced through the
centre, the other having two or more portions of circles pierced out, thus form-
ing a bar or cross in the centre of the hole; or I pierce two or more holes in
one of the shells. This button I cover with linen or other woven material.
Instead of covering the metal, of which the shells of the buttons are composed,
wholly with a woven fabric, I sometimes pierce the centre of the fabric for
covering the back of the button, through which perforation I insert a flange,
formed on the back shell, which said flange I turn down over the fabric and
form an eyelet hole in the centre of the button; or I form the front and back
shells of the button into an eyelet hole, in which case I insert a bar of loose
wire between the two shells to form the shank of the button.
And, thirdly, for improvements in the formation of metal buttons; which
improvements consist in piercing the front and back shells of the button with
two, three, or four holes, corresponding with each other and near the centre of
the said shells; after which I emboss or recess the front and back shells, either
concentric with the button itself, or the holes may be embossed or indented at
a little distance around and concentric with the holes themselves; or, where
I pierce the shells with two holes, I emboss or indent the front and back shells
in an oval form, embracing the two holes.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWING.
Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8 show the several parts of a flexible shank
button in its various stages of manufacture according to my improvements,

page_text: A, Figure 1, is a plan of the front shell of the button, having a circular hole
pierced in the centre, round which is a flange a turned up on the inside of the
shell; Figure 2 is also a plan of the said shell, Figure 1, laid upon the woven
fabric C, which is intended to cover the front of the button; Figure 3 is a
section of the same. B, Figure 4, is a plan of the back of the button; and
Figure 5 is a section of the same, showing the flange for forming the eyelet
ring projecting outwards from the back of the button; Figure 6 is also a
section of the same, shewing the insertion of the flexible shank or tuft E, and
the woven fabric D for covering the back of the button; the said fabric being
secured to the said back by turning down the flange and forming the eyelet
ring round the flexible shank, as shown at e, Figures 7 and 8. Figure 8
shows a section of the button ready for turning in or closing down the outer
flange of the front shell for securing the back and front of the button
together. It will thus be seen, that in the act of closing the button together,
the flange a, Figure 8, will be forced against the material forming the flexible
shank, thus holding the said material securely in its place without the inter-
vention of cardboard or other material, the said fabric being held between
the flange a and the shell B, constituting the back of the button.
Figures 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, and 17 shew the several parts of a
flexible shank button partially covered with a woven fabric, that is to say,
covered on the face or front side of the button. F, Figure 9, is a plan of the
inside of the front shell of the button, showing the flange round the central
hole; Figure 10 is also a plan of the same, laid upon the woven fabric H,
which is intended to cover the front shell of the button; Figure 11 is a section
of the same, showing the central flange turned inwards. G, Figure 12, is a
plan of the back shell of the button, having a hole in the centre for the inser-
tion of the tuft or flexible shank; Figure 13 is a section of the same, showing
the flange round the central hole and projecting inwards; Figure 14 is also a
section of the back shell, showing the insertion of the tuft or flexible shank I;
Figure 15 is a section, showing the several parts of the button brought toge-
ther and placed in their proper places, ready to undergo the closing process,
which causes the tuft or flexible shank to be held firmly between the two
flanges, one on the front and the other on the back shell of the button, thus
securing it in its place and preventing it from being withdrawn; Figure 16 is
a section of a button, in which the front shell is somewhat differently con-
structed from that represented in Figure 15, that is to say, instead of the
central piece of metal being pierced out and a flange turned up round the edge
of the hole, as seen in Figure 11, I make two parallel slits across the centre of
the shell, thus forming a bar similar to the one shown in Figure 28 ; but

page_text: instead of piercing out the two portions of the circles, as shown in Figure 28,
I raise them by suitable tools, and form them into two hemispherical segments,
which segments, it will be seen, are made to bear upon the material of which
the flexible shank is composed, binding it tightly against the interior of the
flange on the back shell of the button, thereby keeping it securely in its place.
Figure 17 is a section of a button, in which the back shell is recessed by a
circular indentation g, which causes the interior surface to be brought into
closer proximity to the front shell of the button, thereby firmly retaining the
material of the flexible shank, and giving additional security to the same.
Figures 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, and 23 represent the several parts of what
is called a "linen button," which button is to be covered with a woven
fabric J. Figure 18 shows a plan of the front shell of the button with a bole
pierced through the centre; Figure 19 is a section of the same, L representing
the woven fabric intended to cover the front shell; Figure 20 shows the front
shell laid upon the woven fabric L; Figure 21 is a plan of the back shell of
the button having a hole pierced through the centre, the said hole correspond-
ing with the hole pierced through the front shell; Figure 22 is a section of
the same, M representing the woven fabric for covering the back of the button;
Figure 23 shows the several parts of which the button is composed, in section.
It will thus be seen that the whole of the metallic parts of the button are
covered externally with a woven fabric. This button has a loose wire bar or
strip of metal inserted between the two shells, as shown at m, Figures 18
and 20.
Figure 24 represents, in section, a button, the front of which is constructed
on the same principle as the preceding one, the back being constructed on
the principle of the one shown in Figures 36 and 37; a flange is formed
on the back of the shell of the button, projecting outwards, which said flange
is passed through a hole pierced in the centre of the woven fabric which is to
cover the back of the button; the flange is then turned over, embracing a
portion of the woven fabric and securing it to the back of the button, thus
forming an eyelet ring, as shown in Figure 37, as well as at N, in Figure 24.
Figures 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, and 31 represents parts of a button to be
wholly covered with a woven fabric. In constructing this button, instead of
piercing out the centres of the front and back shells into a circular hole, I
pierce out a circular opening in one of the shells only; the other shell I pierce
with segments or sectors of circles, thus leaving a bar, if two segments are
pierced out, as shown in Figure 28; or a triangle, if three sectors; and a cross,
if four sectors are pierced out; or I sometimes pierce two or more circular
holes in one or both of the shells.

page_text: Figures 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, and 38 show the several parts of a covered
button having an eyelet hole both in the front and back of the button.
S, Figure 32, is a plan of the front shell of the button, having a loose central
cross bar Tacross the centre of the button; Figure 33 is a section of the
same, showing the flange on the face of the shell; Figure 34 is also a section,
showing the flange turned down, -forming an eyelet ring, and securing the
woven fabric V to the front shell of the button U; Figure 35 is a plan of the
back shell of the button; and Figure 36 is a section of the same, showing
the flange projecting outward from the shell; Figure 37 is also a section of the
back shell, showing the flange turned down to form an eyelet ring, and secure
the woven fabric W to the back shell of the button; Figure 38 shows the
several parts of the button, in section, brought together ready for securing
the back and front of the button together, by closing the flange round the
outer edge of the front shell down and upon the flange projecting from the
outer edge of the back shell of the button. Figure 39 shows the back of
the button in a finished state, with the metal cross bar T situated at the
centre of the eyelet hole. In constructing this button, I sometimes substitute
for the metallic cross bar Ta disc of metal pierced with two or more holes,
which disc I insert between the two shells of the button.
Figures 40, 41, 42, 43, and 44 represent parts of a metal button having
three holes pierced at points equidistant from each other and near the centre.
Figure 40 is a plan of the front shell X of the button; Figure 41 is a section
of the same, showing a cupped recess or indentation round the central part
of the shell, embracing the three holes. Around the edge of the recess I
form an indented ring, as shown at 2, 2, Figures 41 and 44. Y, Figure 42,
is a plan of the back shell of the button, corresponding to the front shell;
Figure 43 is a section of the same, also showing the recessed indentation;
Figure 44 shows the two shells brought together. It will be seen that the
flanges formed round the three holes in each shell are made to correspond
with each other, and meet in the centre of the button, thereby forming
smooth and tubular holes for the reception of the thread in sewing the button
to the garment.
Figure 45 represents, in plan, a button constructed in a manner similar to
that last described, but instead of three holes I make two holes in each shell.
I make the ring and indentation in both the front and back shells of an oval
figure, as shown in the shell Z, Figure 45, which said oval embraces the two
holes. Instead of making two circular holes in an elliptical depression, as
shown in Figure 45, I sometimes make two elliptical holes in a circular
depression.

page_text: Figures 46 and 47 represent the front and back of a metal button formed
in a manner similar to that represented in Figures 40 and 42; but instead of
embossing or recessing the front and back shells concentric with the button
itself, I emboss and form rings around the holes concentric with the holes
themselves, as seen in the said Figures 46 and 47.
In Figure 14 a flexible cord is shown inserted through a hole pierced
through the back shell of the button, for the purpose of forming a fastening
for umbrellas and other articles.
A flange is
Figures 48, 49, and 50 show parts of a single shell covered button. In
constructing this button, I pierce out of the blank two portions of circles,
leaving a bar of metal across the centre, as seen in Figure 48.
then turned up round the edge of the blank forming it into a shell, which
said shell is then placed upon the woven fabric, cut to the required size for
covering the button, the outer edge of which fabric is then turned over the
flange of the shell, as seen in Figure 49. The flange is then turned down;
which encloses the edge of the woven fabric, and thus secures the covering to
the shell, as seen in Figure 50. The back of the metal of this button may
be covered with woven fabric.
Figures 51 and 52 show the construction of a covered ring button. In
forming this button, I pierce out the greater portion of the central part of the
blank, leaving a bar across the middle, as seen in Figure 51. The dotted
lines indicate the form of the blank after the central portions have been
pierced out. The edges are then turned up, forming an internal and external
flange or circular trough, as seen in Figure 52. The trough-shaped ring is
then laid upon the covering material, which is cut to the required size, the
edges of which said material are then brought together over the outer flange,
and turned downwards, and within the circular groove or trough; the exterior
and interior flanges are then pressed together, and firmly secure the covering
material to the button, the said covering material being firmly grasped between
the two metal flanges.
Having now described the nature of my said Invention, and the manner of
carrying the same into effect, I wish it to understood that I do not limit
myself to the precise details herein described and represented, as the same
may be varied without departing from the nature of my said Invention; but
I claim as my Invention,-
Firstly, the method herein-before described, and illustrated in Figures 1, 2,
3, 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8 of the accompanying Drawing, of manufacturing flexible
shank buttons, that is to say, securing the material of which the flexible
shank is made between a ring or flange in the centre of the front shell, and

page_text: the shell constituting the back of the button, so as to dispense with the use
of the paper or other soft material with which the interior of flexible shank
buttons are commonly filled.
Secondly, the method herein-before described, and illustrated in Figures 9,
10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, and 17 of the accompanying Drawing, of manu-
facturing flexible shank buttons, that is to say, securing the material of
which the flexible shank is made between two collars, one formed in the
middle of the front and the other formed in the middle of the back shell of
the button, or between other projections formed both on the back and front
shells, or on one of the said shells only, so as thereby to dispense with the
use of the paper or other soft material with which the interior of flexible
shank buttons are commonly filled.
Thirdly, the improvements in the manufacture of buttons herein-before
described, and illustrated in Figures 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, and 47 of the
accompanying Drawing, that is to say, constructing two and three hole metal
buttons by closing together two shells, the said shells being so perforated and
raised that tubular portions of the said shells coming opposite to each other
form continuous holes through the said buttons.
In witness whereof, I, the said Edwin Green, have hereunto set my hand
and seal, this Sixteenth day of December, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-six.
Witness,
GEORGE SHAW.
EDWIN GREEN. (L.S.)