IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES, CHIEFLY DESIGNED TO SEW SOLES TO UPPERS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES
Year: 1877

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Morgan-Brown, of the Firm of Brandon and
Morgan-Brown, Engineers and Patent Agents, of 38, Southampton Buildings,
London, and 1, Rue Laffitte, Paris, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN
SEWING MACHINES, CHIEFLY DESIGNED TO SEW SOLES TO UPPERS IN THE
MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES." A communication from abroad by
Lyman Reed Blake, of Boston, Massachusetts, United States of America.
:
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said William Morgan-Brown at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 31st July 1877.
WILLIAM MORGAN-BROWN, of the Firm of Brandon and Morgan-Brown, Engineers
and Patent Agents, of 38, Southampton Buildings, London, and 1, Rue Laffitte,
Paris. "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES, CHIEFLY DESIGNED TO SEW SOLES
TO UPPERS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES." [A communication
from abroad by Lyman Reed Blake, of Boston, Massachusetts, United States of
America.]
This Invention relates to improvements in sewing machines, chiefly designed to
'sew soles to uppers in the manufacture of boots and shoes, and is an improvement
upon the machines represented in English Patents, Nos. 113, for the year 1862, and
2113 for the year 1864.
In the present machine many of the parts operate as described in the said Patents,
and need not therefore be specifically described.
Instead of operating the presser as in such patented machines, it is timed with
reference to the movement of the needle, so that the stock is held down upon the
horn until the needle completes that portion of its upward movement derived from
the action of the needle bar, actuating lever, and its operating cam, such movement
drawing up and completing the stitch, and then the presser is lifted while the stock
is fed the necessary distance for another stitch. In this way the sole and upper
are held clamped together between the presser and horn, when the stitch is drawn
taut, the stock being thereby held more firmly and closely together at the stitch-
making points than would be possible were the thread alone depended upon as
heretofore.

page_text: In the sole-sewing machines described in such Patents, as such machines are now
made, the presser is raised just about as the hook of the needle in its ascent reaches,
and commences to draw the thread through the inner sole. This upward movement
of the presser releases the stock from pressure between it and the horn, and the
force with which the contacting faces of the stock is crowded or pressed together is
made dependent on the thread alone. The thread resting in the hook of the needle
is usually subjected to all the strain that it will bear without breaking. This
strain averages from 70 to 90 pounds, but in actual work the stock is not
really drawn together with a force equal to the strength of the thread, for much
of the strength of the waxed thread is consumed by friction about the stock, and
by reason of its being frayed and chafed by straining it about the hook of the
needle.
The ripping of machine-sewed shoes is due to the fact that the stitches are cut at
the junction of the sole and upper by reason of the movement of the outer sole
longitudinally, with reference to the face of the upper placed between it and the
inner sole. The sole in ordinary use is never pulled from bolts of thread attached
to the inner sole or upper, as would be the case if the outer sole became loose by
reason of cutting the thread at the outer face of the outer sole.
Such
The thread holding the upper and outside together is cut by the longitudinal
movement of the outer sole over the upper as the shoe or boot is being worn.
cutting or ripping of machine-sewed work can however be obviated, provided the
-stock as the thread is being drawn through it is crowded together very firmly and
so held. If the stock is so held, the thread drawn by the needle is relieved from all
strain, except that resulting from friction between itself and the hole made for it
in the stock, and being drawn closely up to and upon the stock, held as before:
described, the stock is retained by the thread in substantially the position at which
it was held between the presser and horn, so that the sole or parts thereof outside
the uppers will not move longitudinally over the face of the portion of the upper
between the outer and inner soles, and consequently the stitches will not be cut. In
sewing in this way, the thread having been relieved from most of its strain, another
most important result is accomplished, viz., the holes in the stock are better and
more completely filled with thread. If the strain on the thread is not consumed in
crowding the stock together, then the thread may be larger as compared with the
needle hole, without fear of breaking it when being drawn therethrough. Either
the needle may be smaller with the same size thread, or with a needle of usual size
a larger thread may be used. This increase of thread in the needle hole adds very
materially to the strength and durability of the shoe, as will be apparent to those
skilled in the art.
The presser resting in the channel of the outer sole just at or just in advance of
the stitch-making point, holds the stock together firmly and closely by the action of
a strong spiral spring made adjustable, so as to exert a minimum amount of pressure
while the hook of the needle is below the stock, and as the hook of the needle in
rising with the loop meets the stock and begins to exert an upward pull thereon,
then the force required to draw the needle and loop through the stock is transferred
to the presses through the action of a pressure-augmenting lever, one end of which
is fixed in position, while the other end rests upon a lug projecting from the presser
An arm from the needle lever fulcrum rests upon this augmenting lever, and
is provided with an adjusting screw to ensure a loop of the proper length, and there-
after this length of loop is maintained notwithstanding variation in the thickness of
the stock.
bar.
The Invention also consists in mechanism to operate the whirl in the horn con-
tinuously in one direction, but at an unequal speed, the whirl moving rapidly when
the needle is depressed so as to place the thread in the hook, and thereafter moving
slowly while the needle rises.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said William Morgan-Brown in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 29th
December 1877.
WILLIAM MORGAN-BROWN, of the Firm of Brandon and Morgan-Brown, Engineers
and Patent Agents, of 38, Southampton Buildings, London, and 1, Rue Laffitte,
Paris. "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES, CHIEFLY DESIGNED TO SEW SOLES
TO UPPERS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES." A communication
from abroad by Lyman Reed Blake, of Boston, Massachusetts, United States of
America.
This Invention relates to improvements in sewing machines, chiefly designed to
sew soles to uppers in the manufacture of boots and shoes, and is an improvement
upon the machines represented in English Patents, Nos. 113 for the year 1862,
and 2113 for the year 1864.
In the present machine many of the parts operate as described in the said Patents,
and need not therefore be specifically described.
Instead of operating the presser as in such patented machines it is timed with
reference to the movement of the needle, so that the stock is held down upon the
horn until the needle completes that portion of its upward movement derived from
the action of the needle bar, actuating lever, and its operating cam, such movements
drawing up and completing the stitch, and then the presser is lifted while the stock
is fed the necessary distance for another stitch. In this way the sole and upper are
held clamped together between the presser and horn when the stitch is drawn
taut, the stock being thereby held more firmly and closely together at the stitch-
making point than would be possible were the thread alone depended upon as
heretofore.
In the sole-sewing machines described in such Patents, as such machines are now
made, the presser is raised just about as the hook of the needle in its ascent reaches
and commences to draw the thread through the inner sole. This upward move-
ment of the presser releases the stock from pressure between it and the horn, and
the force with which the contacting faces of the stock is crowded or pressed together
is made dependent on the thread alone. The thread resting in the hook of the
needle is usually subjected to all the strain that it will bear without breaking.
This strain averages from seventy to ninety pounds, but in actual work the stock is
not really drawn together with a force equal to the strength of the thread, for much
of the strength of the waxed thread is consumed by friction about the stock,
and by reason of its being frayed and chafed by straining it about the hook of the
needle.
The ripping of machine-sewed shoes is due to the fact that the stitches are cut
at the junction of the sole and upper, by reason of the movement of the outer sole
longitudinally with reference to the face of the upper placed between it and the
inner sole. The sole in ordinary use is never pulled from bolts of thread attached
to the inner sole or upper, as would be the case if the outer sole became loose by
reason of cutting the thread at the outer face of the outer sole.
Such
The thread holding the upper and out sole together is cut by the longitudinal
movement of the outer sole over the upper as the shoe or boot is being worn.
cutting or ripping of machine-sewed work can however be obviated, provided the
stock, as the thread is being drawn through it, is crowded together very firmly
and so held. If the stock is so held, the thread drawn by the needle is relieved
from all the strain, except that resulting from friction between itself and the hole made
for it in the stock, and being drawn closely up to and upon the stock held as before
described, the stock is retained by the thread in substantially the position at which
it was held between the presser and horn, so that the sole or parts thereof outside
the uppers will not move longitudinally over the face of the portion of the upper
between the outer and inner soles, and consequently the stitches will not be cut.

page_text: In sewing in this way, the thread having been relieved from most of its strain,
another most important result is accomplished, viz., the holes in the stock are better
and more completely filled with thread. If the strain on the thread is not consumed
in crowding the stock together, then the thread may be larger as compared with
the needle hole without fear of breaking it when being drawn therethrough. Either
the needle may be smaller with the same size thread, or with a needle of usual size
a larger thread may be used. This increase of thread in the needle hole adds very
materially to the strength and durability of the shoe, as will be apparent to those
skilled in the art.
The presser resting in the channel of the outer sole, just at or just in advance of
the stitch-making point, holds the stock together firmly and closely by the action of
a strong spiral spring made adjustable so as to exert a minimuin ainount of pressure
while the hook of the needle is below the stock, and as the hook of the needle in
rising with the loop meets the stock and begins to exert an upward pull thereon,
then the force required to draw the needle and loop through the stock is transferred
to the presser, through the action of a pressure-augmenting lever, one end of which
is fixed in position while the other end rests upon a lug projecting from the presser
bar. An arm from the needle lever fulcrum rests upon this augmenting lever, and
is provided with an adjusting screw to ensure a loop of the proper length, and there-
after this length of loop is maintained notwithstanding variation in the thickness of
the stock.
The Invention also consists in mechanism to operate the whirl in the horn con-
tinuously in one direction, but at an unequal speed, the whirl moving rapidly when
the needle is depressed, so as to place the thread in the hook, and thereafter moving
slowly while the needle rises.
Figure 1, represents in front elevation the upper part or head of a sole-sewing
machine provided with my Invention; Figure 2, a side view thereof.
Figure 3, a detail of the fulcrum for the presser lifter.
Figure 4, a detail of the cam for operating and changing the length of feed; and
Figure 5, a side elevation of sufficient of a sole-sewing machine to show the devices
for operating the whirl in the end of the horn.
The main shaft a of the machine is provided with cams b, c, d, to operate the
presser e, the needle lever f, and the arm g of the feed operating mechanism. The
presser, its carrying bar h provided with a screw thread h2, the racket wheel i thereon,
the pawls 2, 2, and devices to operate them, spring j, needle lever, its moveable
fulcrum bar k, needle bar l, and feeder are in construction substantially as in Patent
No. 2113, before referred to, but their times of movement and operation upon the
stock, in the process of making the shoe, are varied for the purposes herein described
to produce more solid work which will not rip.
The cast-off 3, connected with the cast-off bar 5, operates with the hooked needle
4, to cover and uncover its hook as usual. A lug 6 at the upper end of the cast-
off bar receives through it a rod m. An adjustable stop secured to the lower end of
the rod m bears against the under side of the lug 6, and a spiral spring 8 on the rod
rests upon the top of the lug to permit the cast-off to be moved down under a
yielding pressure.
A projecting collar 10 on the needle bar meets, at its ascent and descent, adjustable
stops 9 attached to the rod m, so as to raise and lower it at the proper time to
uncover and cover the hook of the needle. The rod m is held, when the needle
bar changes its direction of movement, by a friction device n. The needle lever is
connected by a link p with a collar q on the needle bar. The arm adjustably.
connected with the moveable fulcrum post of the needle lever, by a screw 11; has its
free end extended laterally so as to rest upon the pressure-augmenting lever 8. This
lever & bears at its near end 13 on the plate t, instead of upon a projection from the
rising and falling fulcrum rod of the presser-lifting lever, as heretofore common, and
its forward end rests, in this instance, in a slot in an ear 15, forming part of the
rising and falling stock of the presser. The arm has an adjusting screw which
may be adjusted to regulate the length of loop to be drawn above the stock, and there-
8

page_text: after the same length of loop is maintained automatically with all thicknesses of
stock.
In the old machine the length of loop was changed by moving the bar 7 up or down
upon the needle fulcrum post, which was difficult when it was desired to make but
a slight variation in the length of the loop, because the set screw would slip into the
depression made by the screw when previously set tight.
The end of the screw u will in practice rest upon a shoe 32, as shown in Figure
2, the shoe preventing the screw from wearing into the lever. The presser-lifting
lever wis connected in the ordinary way with the block x, which carries the ratchet i
that surrounds the screw-threaded portion of the presser shank h. The lever w has
its fulcrum in a box 16, pivotted on the turned-down ends 18, of screws 17, extended
through ears of a depending stand 19, made horizontally adjustable in a slot 20 of
the plate 21, so as to vary the length of the lever and the lift of the presser. A
gib 22 in the box 16 is pressed against the lower end of the lever w by a screw 23.
The presser foot may be lifted more or less at each rotation of the cam b by
adjusting the fulcrum of the lever w.
In the ordinary sole-sewing machine, as described in the Patents before cited, the
presser-lifting lever has its fulcrum on a rising and falling fulcrum post. This is
objectionable, for when the fulcrum post is permitted to rise more or less, so as to
vary the lift of the presser, the end of the lever is changed in position so that the
cam operates it out of time with relation to the feed.
In the present machine the length of the feed may be changed at pleasure by
moving the throwing part 24 of the feed cam d, such part 24 being adjustably
connected with such cam by screws 25 placed in elongated slots in the throwing
part, whereas in the usual machine it is necessary to shift the feed-operating cam
longitudinally on its shaft to lengthen the feed stroke. This movement of the cam
so changes its relation with the fulcrum of the arm, in all respects, like that herein
marked g, that the feed point as it is depressed is thrown a little forward out of
time.
In this Invention the lateral movement of the feed is produced without shifting
the cam on the shaft, and consequently the stock is not pulled while the presser
holds it down as it would be if the feed, as it descended, moved forward just in
advance of its time.
The rocking motion of the shaft 20, moved by the cam d and arm g, operates the
feeding dog 27 in the ordinary manner. The rotating horn 28 will be as in the
Patents referred to, but will preferably be operated continuously in one direction
at a variable speed by the following devices.
In the Drawing the horn is shortened so as to show on a single Sheet the
connection between the whirl and main shaft.
The main shaft a has an excentric gear 6', adapted to engage a second excentric
gear c', on a shaft d', having a bevel pinion e¹, which engages a bevel pinion f¹ on a
vertical shaft g'. This shaft g' is connected through other bevel gears and shafts
with the pinion h¹ at the axis of the horn, it in turn rotating the whirl through the
usual shafts and bevel gears. These eccentric gears move the whirl continuously in
one direction but at a varying speed.
When the needle is below the stock the whirl is rotated rapidly to supply
the needle with thread quickly, but when the needle is raised the whirl is moved
slowly.
By avoiding the stoppage of the whirl it is possible to move it with more accuracy,
and with less shock than if the whirl had periods of rotation and rest as it was
moved in one direction.
The Drawings show two pieces of leather 29, 30, between the presser and horn.
It will be assumed that the piece 29 represents the outer sole, and the piece 30 the
upper, they being placed in contact in any of the ways in which such parts are
placed together to be united on the patented machines before cited, and that the
presser rests in a channel cut in the sole in any usual way.
In the Drawing the needle is represented as having reached its top stroke, whore

page_text: the loop of thread is drawn closely and firmly up into the stock, and it has there
rested sufficiently long to permit the feed to engage the stock, and to permit the
pawls 2, 2, to lock into the ratchet i, so that the presser foot may be lifted, whereas
in the old machine the ratchet is locked just as the needle commences to rise.
Assuming that one stitch has been made, then, when the needle commences to
descend from its highest position the presser rests with its lower end in the channel
in the outer sole, just at or near the point at which the needle is about to enter the
stock. The presser is held down by the stress of the spring j. The loop of thread
just drawn into and through the stock just beyond the end of the presser holds the
stock together at that point firmly. The needle penetrates the stock and enters the
hole in the horn, and the whirl lays a thread into the hook of the needle, and then
the needle is raised; as the needle commences to rise the needle lever is called upon
to exert sufficient power to draw the loop and hook up through the hole in the
stock. The power required to do this is exerted by the needle lever, and the force
expended at the outer end of such lever is made to depress the fulcrum post of the
needle lever with an equal amount of force, and such post through the arm r,
resting on the augmenting lever s, connected with the presser causes the strain
required to draw the needle and loop up through the stock to be transferred at each
stitch to the presser foot, thereby increasing the pressure of the presser upon the
stock at each stitch over and beyond the pressure of the spring, this amount of
increase of pressure varying according to the thickness and density of the stock.
The thread, as heretofore used in the patented machines, cited has crowded the
stock together at the stitch-making point with a force equal to the strength of the
thread employed, less it's loss of strength by reason of friction on the stock, and
abrasion on the book of the needle. The maximum pressure exerted by such thread
is many times less than the pressure exerted by the presser in the present
Invention. This presser holds the stock crowded closely together until the needle
draws the loop up through the hole and the stock, and thereby confines the stock in
the condition in which it was held by the presser and horn. After the stitch is
drawn up the feed point 27 descends and penetrates the stock, the presser foot is
then lifted positively, just enough to permit the stock to be moved over the horn,
and then the feed point is moved laterally to feed the stock for a new stitch. The
needle through parts 8, r, k, f, p, l, was lifted a little as the presser was lifted; such
movement did not further draw the loop into the stock, but simply held it taut.
After the completion of the feed the presser is again allowed to descend upon and
clamp and hold the stock until the thread is again drawn through it.
In the old form of machine the increased strain upon the needle fulcrum post
caused by drawing the loop through the stock was not permitted to increase the
pressure of the presser on the stock, for at that time the pawls, like those
inarked 2, 2, were thrown into engagement with the ratchet, and the presser foot
was lifted from the horn.
The pressure of the presser foot upon the stock has been described as variable at
cach stitch. This is the way it is preferred to construct the machine, but instead of
such construction the presser may be held down by the stress of a spring, and be
lifted from contact with the spring, as, and in accordance with the time just before
described.
In ordinary sewing the thread as the stitch is drawn taut acts to give the final
set to the material being sewed together.
In this improved machine the presser foot in the channel is caused to press the
stock together in the exact line of the seam, and the pressure so exerted is always
in excess of the pressure which the thread can exert, and consequently the thread
when drawn taut does not give to the stock its final set.
A shoe having the sole and upper pressed and held together as herein-before
described at the time the stitch is being made and drawn taut is rendered much
more durable than a shoe in which the final set of the stock is dependent upon the
strength of the thread.
Having now described and particularly set forth the nature of the said Invention

page_text: and the manner of carrying the same into effect, I would have it understood that
what I claim is,-
First. In a sole-sewing machine the combination with the rotary horn to enter
and support the work, and a presser to enter the channel in the outer sole, of
mechanism to hold the stock clamped between the presser and horn while the
needle is lifted to draw the thread through the stock, whereby the thread is relieved
from the duty of producing the final contact pressure or set of the stock, substantially
as described.
Second. In a sole-sewing machine the presser and the needle-actuating lever, and
its moveable fulcrum post in combination with connecting mechanism, whereby the
resistance which the needle and thread meet with in being drawn up through the
stock is transferred to the presser foot to increase its pressure at each stitch,
substantially as described.
Third. The combination with the presser foot, its spring, ratchet, and ratchet-
holding pawl of mechanism to lock the ratchet, and permit the presser foot to be
lifted from pressure on the stock just as the needle draws the stitch taut, as and for
the purpose described.
Fourth. The combination with the needle lever, fulcrum post, and its arm of the
screw u to adjust the length of loop, substantially as described.
Fifth. The presser foot, lifting lever, in combination with the pivotted horizontally
adjustable fulcrum block, to operate substantially as described.
Sixth. The combination with the feeding mechanism, its connected shaft 26, and
arm g of the cam d, and its adjustable throwing part 24, to vary the length of feed
substantially as described.
Seventh. The combination with the horn and its whirl, and the hooked needle of
the eccentric gears adapted to operate the whirl continuously in one direction at a
varying speed, substantially as described.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Morgan-Brown, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Twenty-ninth day of December, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and seventy-seven.
WILLIAM MORGAN-BROWN. (L.S.)