IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF VELVETS AND VELVETEENS.
Year: 1879

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Thomas Emmott, of Oldham, in the County of Lancaster,
Manufacturer, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF
VELVETS AND VELVETEENS.'
"
Sealed the 9th January 1880, and dated the 29th October 1879.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Thomas Emmott, at the
Office of the Commissioners, of Patents on the 29th October 1879.
THOMAS EMMOTT, of Oldham, in the County of Lancaster, Manufacturer.
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF VELVETS AND VELVETEENS.'
My Invention consists in certain improved modes of manufacturing velvets and
velveteens, whereby an even surface is obtained, and the usual "raciness" which
is objectionable is removed. In performing my Invention I employ a loom of the
ordinary construction, in which tappets with from 24 to 70, or other convenient
number, to the round are used. The weft is floated over the warp for producing
which when cut form the face of the velvet or velveteen, and the binding
picks are thrown in after the requisite number of floating picks have been intro-
duced; but in order to produce a fuller face and to avoid the "raciness" I give
one more floating pick between the binding picks than is now customary in
weaving a similar class of fabrics. The above improvements may be used in
manufacturing velvets and velveteens with a plain, twilled, jean, florentine, or other
races,
back.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said Thomas Emmott in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 29th April
1880.
THOMAS EMMOTT, of Oldham, in the County of Lancaster, Manufacturer.
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF VELVETS AND VELVETEENS."
My Invention is applicable in weaving those woven fabrics known as velvets or
velveteens, in which 8 or more warp threads are used to make the draught, and in
which the weft threads are floated over the warp threads to form the races, which
are afterwards cut when required to form the pile.
In order to produce a fabric with a better face, in proportion to the weight of
the cloth, than has hitherto been made, and especially in order to remove the
raciness or ribby appearance often noticeable in velvets and velveteens in the
direction of the warp threads, I make use of a tappet or chain motion varying
from twenty four to seventy, or other convenient number to the round. It has
hitherto been customary in making the cloth known as the E 1 patent velvet with a
plain back, in which the weft threads are thrown over seven of the warp threads
to form the pile, to weave only four of such weft threads between the two binding
weft threads which form the back of the cloth, each one of such pile weft threads
being bound or held by a different one of the four warp threads in each draught
used in making the face of the cloth, and commonly known as face ends. In the
same way in weaving the cloth commonly known as the E 3 patent velvet with a plain
back, in which the weft threads used for making the pile are thrown over nine of
the warp threads, there are usually inserted five of such pile weft threads between
the two binding weft threads which form the back of the cloth.
And so on
with cloths in which the weft threads are thrown over eleven or more warp
threads.
Now the peculiar feature and novelty of my Invention is that between the
separate binding weft threads of the before named, cloths, particularly in those
made with a plain or calico back, I introduce one or more additional pile weft
threads than there are face warp threads in the draught, and as this system, if a
tappet of only twelve or fourteen to the round were used, would necessitate an
unequal distribution of weft threads with regard to warp threads, I increase the
number to the round of the tappet or chain, and arrange the pile weft threads in
such a form that in the whole pattern the face warp threads bind an equal number
of the weft threads. Thus in weaving the cloth commonly known as El patent
velvet by my method I use a tappet of twenty four to the round, see Fig. 1 of the
accompanying Sheet of diagrams. The first, seventh, thirteenth, and nineteenth
picks form the ground or back of the cloth, and the second to sixth, eighth to
twelfth, fourteenth to eighteenth, and twentieth to twenty fourth, are the weft
threads forming the pile. The extra weft thread introduced between the two first
binding picks is the sixth, which will be found to correspond with the second. The
extra weft thread between the next binding picks (the seventh and thirteenth) is
the twelfth. The next extra weft thread is the eighteenth, and the last the twenty
fourth. Each one of these extra weft threads is bound by a different warp thread,
so that in the whole tappet each warp thread binds an equal number of pile weft
threads. The extra number of weft threads gives a better pile to the cloth when
cut, and the diversified arrangement of the weft threads completely removes the
ribby appearance seen in velvets and velveteens the length way of the warp.
Again, in making the cloth commonly known as the E3 patent velvet, I use an
endless chain, by which I obtain seventy picks to the round (Fig. 2). The binding
threads in this case are the first, eighth, fifteenth, twenty second, twenty ninth,
thirty sixth, forty third, fiftieth, fifty seventh, and sixty fourth, and between each
of these there are six weft threads forming the pile, one bound by each of the face

page_text: warp threads in the draught and one over. The extra picks in this pattern are
the seventh, fourteenth, twenty first, twenty eighth, thirty fifth, forty second,
forty ninth, fifty sixth, sixty third, and seventieth, two of which are bound by
each of the second, fourth, sixth, eighth, and tenth warp threads in the draught,
viz., the seventh and forty second by the second warp thread, the fourteenth and
forty ninth by the sixth warp thread, and so on. Fig. 3 represents the same pattern
reduced to seven shafts with the weaver's draught. In Fig. 4 the weft threads
float over eleven of the warp threads, and there are seven pile weft threads between
each of the binding threads. To complete the pattern in this Figure forty eight
picks to the round are required, as will be seen by reference to the Figure. Fig. 5
is a pattern of Fig. 4 reduced to eight shafts. Where the two binding weft
threads in a plain cloth are placed one after another, as in Fig. 16, I weave the
weft pile threads in the same proportion as in the cases previously commented
upon, that is to say, I weave two more weft pile threads between the binding
threads. This arrangement is shewn in Fig. 6, in which the weft threads forming
the pile float over seven of the warp threads, and it may be arranged in like
manner for cases where (as in Fig. 2 and Fig. 4) the weft threads float over nine
or eleven, or more warp threads. My arrangement is further specially applicable
in making fast pile velvets and velveteens where the warp thread is bound by three
or more weft threads, as it facilitates the weaving of a heavier cloth with less
wear and tear to the loom, and gives a better pile when cut. Fig. 7 is the pattern
of an El patent velvet woven, according to my improvements, with fast pile. The
extra picks, viz., the sixth, the twelfth, the eighteenth, and the twenty fourth, are
each bound by two different face warp threads. In Figs. 8 and 9 are represented
the patterns for fast pile patent velvets where the weft threads float over seven
and nine of the warp threads respectively. I have hitherto spoken only of cloth
made with a plain back, but my Invention is also applicable to cloths made with
a jean or florentine, or five shaft twill back, or to a mixed back, partly twill and
partly plain. These sorts of back are more useful in fast pile cloths, but they are
applicable to either fast or loose pile cloths made on my principle. Fig. 10 shews
a Florentine twill, which may be used in place of the four binding picks in Figs. 1,
and 6 and 7; Fig. 11 shews a mixed jean and plain ground, which may be used
instead of the ten binding picks in Figs. 2 and 8; Fig. 12 shews a jean back,
which may be used instead of the six binding picks in Figs. 4 and 9; and Fig. 13
shews a five shaft twill which may be used instead of the ten binding picks in
Figs. 2 and 8.
My Invention is applicable to weaving cotton, silk, and other woven fabrics.
The arrangement of the pile weft threads in these cloths may be otherwise
diversified, and I wish it to be understood that I do not limit myself to the
particular details here furnished, but what I claim as my Invention is the improved
method of weaving velvets and velveteens by introducing one or more additional
floating picks between the binding picks than is now customary, whereby an even
surface is obtained, and the usual "raciness" or ribby appearance is removed.
In witness whereof, I, the said Thomas Emmott, have hereunto set my hand
and seal, this Twenty seventh day of April, One thousand eight hundred
and eighty.
THOMAS EMMOTT. (L.S.)

page_text: FIG. 4.
-*-
.