Improvements in or connected with Collar Studs or the like.
Year: 1894

page_text: Date of Application, 31st May, 1894-Accepted. 7th July, 1894
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in or connected with Collar Studs or the like.
We ALFRED CRAFER of 20 Atlingworth Street Brighton in the County of
Sussex Gentleman and JOHN COOPER SAUNDERS of the Firm of Saunders and
Shepherd of Bartletts Passage Buildings in the City of London Manufacturing
Jeweller do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the
same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement :-
The invention relates to Improvements in or connected with Collar Studs or the
like.
A common cause of discomfort in connection with neckties is that they are
liable to work round upon the collar, so that the bow or.knot instead of occupying
a central position with relation to the shirt front is carried to one side thereof,
thus causing considerable discomfort and annoyance to the wearer, and in addition
to this the necktie is liable to work up over the back of the collar, adding to
the trouble above pointed out.
Many devices have been suggested for obviating these difficulties but they
have all possessed some objectionable features and have not partaken of the form
of an ordinary stud.
Now the object of the present invention is to combine with a stud of common
shape adapted to be used in the ordinary manner, means whereby the necktie of
the wearer may be readily and securely fastened in position without the possibility
of shifting after being once adjusted.
In carrying the present invention into effect the stud is formed with a rounded
base of ordinary construction to which is fixed a shank supporting a button head,
but in lieu of the ordinary button head hitherto employed, according to the
present invention the head is formed of two concavo-convex or dished plates,
one fixed to the shank and the other hinged thereto at its edge, so as to be
capable of being opened or turned back upon its hinge for the purpose herein-
after described.
The hinged part of the head of the stud is provided upon its inner face with
a number of spikes or projections, and it is formed with an offset beyond its
binge which acted upon by a plate spring fixed to the stationary part of the
head, and this spring is so arranged that it normally holds the hinged part of
the head closed upon the stationary part with a spring pressure, whilst in the
open or turned back position of the hinged part of the head it acts upon the
end of the offset to thus hold the parts until they are restored to their normal
positions.
By this arrangement of parts the stud may be passed through the button hole
at the back of the shirt and the corresponding hole in the collar in the ordinary
manner, whilst in order to fix the tie against movement it is only necessary to
turn back or raise the hinged part of the head, place the tie under the same
and then again cause the hinged part to resume its normal position when the
tie will be firmly clamped and held secure against movement in any direction.
In lieu of the spring arrangement hereinbefore described it will be evident
that other forms or arrangements of springs and co-acting parts may be employed
for causing one part, of the head to approach the other and thus effecting the
same object.

page_text: reauny carried into effect, we will proceed aided by the accompanying drawings
more fully to describe the same.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.
Figure 1 is an exterior view representing a portion of the back of a shirt
with an attached collar and necktie illustrating the application of the present
invention.
Figure 2 is a side view of the stud separately.
Figure 3 is a face view thereof.
Figure 4 is a longitudinal section thereof.
Figure 5 is a similar view to Figure 2, but representing the moveable part
of the head opened in readiness for the insertion of the tie and
Figure 6 is a face view thereof with the moveable part of the head broken
away in order to expose the spring.
Figure 7 is a side view of a stud representing a modification in the method
of connecting the moveable part of the head with the other part.
Figure 8 is a face view and
Figure 9 is a longitudinal section thereof representing the moveable part of
the head opened ready for the insertion of the necktie.
Figure 10 is a similar view to Figure 7 representing a slight modification and
Figure 11 is a longitudinal section thereof representing the moveable part of
the head in a similar position to that represented at Figure 9.
In the several figures in which like parts are indicated by similar letters of
reference Figures 2 to 11 are drawn to an enlarged scale with respect to
Figure 1.
Referring to Figures 1 to 6 a represents the shirt, 6 represents the collar,
c represents the necktie, and d³ represents the stud. d represents the base of
the stud which is formed rounded or convex in the ordinary manner, and to this
base d is fixed the usual shank d' supporting the button head but in lieu of the
ordinary fixed button head hitherto employed, according to the present invention,
the head is formed of two concavo-convex or dished plates one d² fixed to the
shank and the other d³ hinged at d' by its edge to the fixed part d² so that
the former may be capable of being opened or turned back upon its hinge d'
for the purpose hereinafter described and as represented at Figure 5.
The hinged part of the head of the stud is provided upon its inner face
with a number of spikes or projections d** or they might be upon the fixed
part and the hinged part d³ is formed with an offset d³** beyond the pin of
the hinge which is acted upon by a plate spring d2* fixed to the part d³ of
the head.
The plate spring d* is so arranged that it normally holds the hinged part d³
of the head closed upon the stationary part with a spring pressure as represented
at Figures 1, 2, 3, and 4 whilst in the open or turned back position of the
hinged part d³ of the head the spring (2* acts upon the end of the offset d³**
to thus hold the parts as represented at Figure 5 until they are restored to
their normal positions.
By this arrangement of parts the head 3 of the stud may be passed through the
button hole at the back of the shirt a and corresponding hole in the collar 6 in the
ordinary manner whilst in order to fix the tie c against movement it is only
necessary to turn back or raise the hinged part d³ of the head as represented at
Figure 5, place the tie c under the same and then cause the hinged part d³ to
resume its normal position when the tie will be firmly clamped as represented at
Figure 1, and held secure against movement in any direction.
In the example given at Figures 7, 8 and 9 in lieu of connecting the moveable
part d³ of the head to the fixed part d² by means of a hinge joint as hereinbefore
described with respect to the previous figures, in this case the shank di is formed

page_text: hollow or tubular, and the moveable part d³ has fixed thereto a rod or spindle d³**
which enters the tubular shank d' and at its opposite end is furnished with a head
or piston whilst around the rod or spindle (3* is coiled a spring (2* which at one
end takes an abutment against the part d² and at the other end presses against the
head or piston of the rod d³** thus acting to nomally hold the moveable part d³ in
contact with the fixed part d' of the head.
This arrangement does not afford such a large surface grip of the tie as that
hereinbefore described but it possesses the advantage that it is unnecessary to
arrange the head in any particular manner as in the arrangement, hereinbefore
described, added to which the peculiar construction gives great strength.
In the example given at Figures 10 and 11 the parts d² d³ are separable in a
similar manner to that described with respect to Figures 7, 8, and 9 but in this
case the part 2 is inverted and the part d³ is formed to slide upon the exterior of
the shank d' whilst the spring d** is connected with the parts d² d³ and acts to draw
them together; in other respects the action of this device is similar to that lastly
hereinbefore described.
In lieu of the spring arrangements hereinbefore described it will be evident that
other forms or arrangements of springs and coacting parts may be employed for
causing one part of the head to approach the other part, and thus effect the same
object.
Although the invention is hereinbefore shown and described in connection with
the back of a shirt, it will be evident that it is also adapted to be used in the front
of a shirt in order to clamp and hold down the ends of a tie.
By the means herein before described a stud of ordinary appearance is at a
trifling additional cost rendered capable of securely fixing a necktie in the desired
position thus obviating the inconveniences above pointed out.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what we
claim is :-
:-
1. In a stud the combination of a base, a shank fixed with the base and a clamp
carried by the shank substantially as herein shown and described and for the
purpose stated.
2. In a stud the combination of a base, a shank fixed with the base and a head
formed in two parts one part being fixed with the shank and the other moveable
with relation to the first so as to constitute therewith a clamp substantially as
herein shown and described and for the purpose stated.
3. In a stud the combination of a base, a shank fixed with the base, a head
formed in two parts, one part being fixed with the shank and the other moveable
spikes or serrations upon one or both parts and a spring for normally closing the
moveable part upon the fixed part so as to constitute a clamp substantially as
herein shown and described and for the purpose stated.
4. In a stud the combination of a base a shank fixed with the base, a head formed
in two parts, one part being fixed with the shank and the other hinged, to the first,
spikes or serrations upon one or both parts and a spring for normally closing the
moveable part upon the fixed part so as to constitute a clamp substantially as
herein shown and described.
5. In a stud the combination of a base, a shank fixed with the base, a head
formed in two parts, one part being fixed with the shank and the other hinged to
the first spikes or serrations upon one or both parts an offset or projection from the
moveable part beyond the hinge pin and a plate spring carried by the fixed part
and acting upon the offset or projection in manner substantially as herein shown
and described and for the purpose stated.
6. In a stud the combination of a base, a shank fixed with the base, a head
formed in two parts one part being fixed with the shank and the other moveable,
spikes or serrations upon one or both parts, a spring for normally closing the
moveable part upon the fixed part and means for temporarily. retaining the

page_text: moveable part in its open position substantially as herein shown and described and
for the purpose stated.
Dated this 31st day of May 1894.
WHITE & WOODINGTON,
27, Southampton Buildings, London, Agents.