New or Improved Method of and Apparatus for Actuating or Driving the Travellers or Carriages in Machines used in the Manufacture of Tulle, Lace, and the like.
Year: 1899

page_text: Date of Application (in United Kingdom), 19th May, 1899
Complete Specification Left, 19th Feb., 1900 -Accepted, 14th Apr., 1900
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
New or Improved Method of and Apparatus for Actuating or Driving
the Travellers or Carriages in Machines used in the Manufacture
of Tulle, Lace, and the like.
1, JEAN FARIGOULE, of 40, Rue de Jeuneurs, Paris, France, Merchant, do
hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:--
The present invention refers to a new or improved method of and apparatus
for driving the travellers or carriages of machines intended for the manufacture
of tulle, lace, and netted fabrics in general.
My invention is characterized by the application of an arrangement of engage-
ment devices of a special character, governed by a jacquard mechanism, and
intended to put the carriages into operation at any required moment.
My arrangement also allows of communicating to the comb bars a translation
movement in the direction of the length of the machine, in such manner as to
cross and stretch the bobbin threads at will.
My invention therefore generally consists in jacquarding each carriage in
order to cause to cross and twist the bobbin threads which the carriages carry.
According to my invention each carriage has at its lower part a notch in
which there engages the extremity of an actuating lever; the actuating levers
are articulated on supports, keyed on a rock shaft, in such manner that for a
slight angular displacement of the shaft the extremity of each actuating lever
rises or falls in such a way as to become engaged or disengaged in the notch
of a carriage.
Each actuating lever, according to the direction in which it turns about its
axis, has the effect of displacing the carriage which corresponds to it, either in
front or in rear, in such manner as to bring the traveller into engagement with
either a front or a rear catch bar.
The oscillating movement of the actuating levers is regulated by two series
of needles placed one above and the other below the oscillating axis of the
actuating lever.
Each series of needles is mounted in a box which is capable of receiving
motion.
The needles pass transversely through the boxes which carry them, and each
11. is submitted to the action of a pressure spring.

page_text: By the movement which is given to the needle boxes, the needles are caused
to advance towards some metallic blades, which latter are pierced with holes
and are moved by a jacquard; these needles thus encounter either a plane surface
or a hole of the said blades, and are arrested by the blades or pass through them,
and thus balancing or rocking the actuating levers in one direction or the other,
according as the said levers are operated upon by the needles above or below their
axis of oscillation.
The actuating levers are guided by any suitable means, during their movements
of oscillation, and are brought to their initial (neutral) position, (in which they
receive no more action of the needles) by springs counterweights, or any other
means.
The metallic blades are hooked or connected to the plates of a Jacquard
apparatus.
The catch bars receive an angular displacement by means of levers and con-
necting rods, and thus communicate to the carriages which they operate, a move-
ment in advance or to the rear, in such manner as to transport the carriages of
the central comb bars to the front or back comb bars.
The catch bars never completely leave the carriages; when the machine closes
up, the catch bars push the carriages and keep them at the centre, and when the
machine opens the catch bars become separated from one another, in acconi-
panying the carriages pushed by the actuating levers; these catch bars then
pass above the tails of the carriages, pausing at the centre of their travel and
fall into the notches of the carriages which have been displaced by the actuating
levers, only after having passed the notches of the carriages.
It should be remarked also that the catch bars ought always to have a proper
contour corresponding with the comb bars.
The movement of translation of each of the comb bars in the longitudinal
direction of the machine, is regulated by a comb lever articulated about an
axis, and which lever receives its oscillating movement from a cam.
At the moment when the comb bar receives its translation movement, an
intermediate piece interposes itself between the extremity of the comb-lever and
that of the comb bar; on the contrary, when the comb bars ought to remain
immovable, this piece is lowered, and the comb lever oscillates without producing
any useful action.
The rising and falling movement of the intermediate piece will be regulated,
for example, by a bar of stout wire forming part of the jacquard.
The mechanism according to my invention operates in the following manner.
At the commencement, the carriages are at the centre in the two central fixed
comb bars, and the boxes of the jacquard governed needles, are removed from the
actuating levers.
When the carriages ought to be displaced, the shaft, upon which the actuating
levers are carried, turns in such manner that the ends of the actuating levers
engage into the notches of the travellers, the needle boxes advance towards
the actuating levers, and the blades, controlled by the jacquard, are brought into
the desired position to allow the needles to pass or to be stopped according as
the actuating levers ought to oscillate or remain immovable.
By a modification of my arrangement the actuating levers are each supplemented
by a head piece, which latter presents a hook to each traveller, and the said
head pieces replace the catch bars before mentioned.
These actuating levers are movable about an axis, and their movement of
oscillation is regulated as previously described by the needles.
The axis on which the actuating levers are mounted is susceptable of receiving
by any suitable arrangement, an angular displacement, in such manner as io
communicate to the head pieces a movement analogous to that of the catch bars,
in the preceding case with. the object of moving the carriages on the comb bars.
The boxes which carry the needles will be placed either in the interior or the
exterior; in this latter case the boxes should go back to allow the displacement of

page_text: the actuating lever, when the axis would receive its translation movement to
bring the carriages on the comb bars.
The head pieces may also be separate from the actuating levers; in this case
each second part has a tail on which the extremity of the corresponding actuating
lever acts. The second pieces are movable about an axis which will receive by
any suitable arrangement an angular displacement in such manner that the second
pieces can convey or transport the carriages as has been previously said.
It is to be well understood that my arrangements, with suitable modifications
of form or shape, may be applied to various types of machines.
In my invention, and as previously stated, I jacquard each carriage and cause
the threads of the bobbins which these carriages carry to be crossed and twisted
as required, the different carriages being driven respectively by actuating levers
submitted to the action of needles carried by a frame which communicates to the
needles a movement of translation, in such manner that these needles cause the
actuating levers to oscillate or not, according to whether they pass freely or are
arrested by the metallic blades pierced with holes, and the position of which is
regulated by a jacquard as has been before described.
BREWER & SON,
London & Leeds, Agents for the Applicant.
BREWER & SON,
London & Leeds, Agents for the Applicant.
New or Improved Method of and Apparatus for Actuating or Driving
the Travellers or Carriages in Machines used in the Manufacture
of Tulle, Lace, and the like.
'
I, JEAN FARIGOULE, of 40, Rue de Jeuneurs, Paris, France, Merchant, do
hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is
to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement:-
The present invention refers to a new or improved method of and apparatus
for driving the carriages of machines intended for the manufacture of tulle,
lace, and netted fabrics generally.
My invention consists in the application of engaging devices of special con-
structions, operated by a Jacquard mechanism, and intended to throw the carriages
into action with either the front or rear catch bars at the desired moment.
My arrangement also allows of communicating a traverse motion to the comb
bars in a direction longitudinally of the machine so as to cross and twist the
bobbin threads at pleasure.
My invention consists therefore in principle of controlling each carriage by
the Jacquard mechanism and in crossing and twisting the bobbin threads carried
by the carriages.
In order that my invention may be clearly understood I have illustrated same
in the accompanying drawings the constructions there shewn being by way of
example only.
Fig. 1 is an elevation of one arrangement of my device.
Fig. 2 shews the device at the moment of engagement of the carriages with
their catch bars.
Fig. 3 shews the carriages at the end of their travel.
Fig. 4 shews the driving of the blades of the engaging device.

page_text: Fig. 5 is a side view of the end of the loom.
Figs. 6 and 7 shew two modifications of my arrangement.
Figs. 8 to 11 shew the formation of the crossings and twisting of the bobbin
threads.
Fig. 12 is a longitudinal elevation of a modified arrangement of my device.
Fig. 13 is an end view and Fig. 14 is a plan view of same.
Fig. 15 shews a device for connecting the bars to the strings of the Jacquard.
Fig. 16 is a modification in the driving of the comb bars.
Referring more particularly to Figs. 1 to 5, each carriage a has at its lower
portion a notch into which the extremity of a lever c can take, the said lever
being movable about the axis d; the levers are jointed to supports e keyed upon
a shaft f, in such manner that a slight angular displacement of this shaft will
cause the end of each lever c to rise or fall so as to engage with, or be dis-engaged
from, the notch b.
Each lever according to whether it turns in one direction or the other about
its axis d, moves. the carriage corresponding to it either backwards or forwards,
so as to allow it to engage with the catch bar g or h as will be described hereafter.
The oscillatory movement of the levers c is controlled by two series of needles i
placed the one above and the other below the axis of oscillation d.
Each series of needles is mounted in a box j capable of receiving horizontal
reciprocating motion and the needles i pass transversely through the box carrying
them and are subjected to the action of presser springs k.
During the horizontal movement of the boxes j the needles i advance towards
metal blades which are pierced with holes and operated by a Jacquard, and
the said needles then meet a solid portion or a hole in the blades and are
arrested by the said metal blades or pass through same as the case may be,
and thus cause the levers which correspond to the needles to swing in one
direction or the other according as these levers are engaged by the needles either
from above or below their axis of oscillation.
The levers are guided by any suitable means during their movement of
oscillation and are returned to their normal position, when they are no longer
operated by the needles by springs counterweights or in any other suitable
manner.
The metal blades are attached as shewn in Fig. 4 to the bars m of a Jacquard
mechanism of any convenient or well known construction.
The catch bars g, h, receive an angular displacement by means of levers and
cranks and thus impart a backward and forward motion to the carriages which
they drive so as to bring the carriages of the central comb bars n to the front or
rear comb bars.
The catch bars gh never completely leave the carriages a; when the machine
closes, the catch bars push the carriages and hold them in the centre, and when
the machine opens, the catch bars extend and accompany the carriages which are
pushed by the levers c. These catch bars pass therefore above the tails of the
carriages remaining in the centre and fall into the bents or notches of the carriages
displaced by the levers c, after having passed the bents or notches of the carriages
remaining in the centre.
It is to be remarked also that the catch bars and / ought always to be capable
of passing around the comb bars o and p.
The traversing motion of each of the comb bars op longitudinally of the
machine is controlled by a lever q, see Fig. 5, jointed about an axis r, and which
receives its oscillatory movement from a cam s.
At the moment that the comb bar should receive its transverse motion an
intermediate piece t is interposed between the end of the lever q and that of the
comb bar on the contrary, when the comb bar should remain stationary this
piece is lowered and the lever q oscillates without producing any effect.
The rising and falling motion of the piece is controlled for example by a bar u
forming part of the Jacquard.

page_text: The mechanism acts as follows:
In starting, the carriages a are at the centre as shewn in Fig. 1 in the two
fixed comb bars n and the needle boxes jare away from the levers c.
When the carriages are to be displaced the shaft f turns so that the ends of
the levers will engage with the notches 6 of the carriages a, the boxes j j¹
advance towards the levers c and the blades controlled by the Jacquard are
brought to the desired position, to allow the needles to pass, or be stopped
according as the levers care to be swung or remain stationary.
In the case shewn in Fig. 2 the lever c placed in front is pushed by a lower
needle and this displaces the front carriage towards the left of the drawing, on
the other hand the lever placed behind is pushed by an upper needle and the
carriage driven by this lever is moved towards the right.
The carriages which are to be displaced are thus brought into position to be
seized by either their front or rear catch. bar, upon which the latter receive their
angular displacement for the purpose of shifting the carriages either backward or
forward.
The comb bars op carrying these carriages then receive a longitudinal travers-
ing motion in the inverse direction, so as to cross the bobbin threads of those
carriages carried by the comb bars when the said carriages return into their two
comb bars at the centre, see diagram Fig. 8.
At the following motion the comb bars o return to their initial position thus
producing a second crossing in the reverse direction to the first, see diagram
Fig. 9.
When these two successive crossings are in the same direction, a twist is
obtained, and this twist will be backwards, see Fig. 10, or forwards, see Fig. 11,
according as the crossings were from right to left or left to right.
Fig. 6 shews a modification in which the driving levers c¹ are each terminated
by a piece having a hook; to each carriage in front and behind there is a
lever furnished with a piece 2, the whole of these pieces c2 replacing the catch
bars I and h mentioned above.
These levers are movable about an axis such as the axis before mentioned
and their oscillatory movement is controlled as formerly by the needles i.
The axis upon which the levers c' are mounted is capable of receiving from
any convenient means an angular displacement so as to communicate to the
pieces a movement analogous to that of the catch bars' g h in the preceding case
for the purpose of shifting the carriages a upon the comb bars o or p.
The boxes which carry the needles will be placed either inside or outside,
and in this case the boxes should recede to allow of the sufficient displacement of
the levers c¹ when the axis receives its traversing motion to bring the carriages a
upon the comb bars or p.
The pieces may in some cases be independent of the levers c¹ as shewn in
Fig. 7, in which case, each piece c has a claw upon which the extremity of the
corresponding lever cacts." The pieces are movable about an axis which
receives from any convenient means an angular displacement so that the pieces c²
can shift the carriages as has been previously described.
It will be obvious that the mere construction and the arrangements of the
mechanical parts for effecting the motions of the levers c and of the comb bars o
may be varied without departing from my invention and by way of example I
have illustrated such a modified construction at Figs. 12 to 16, to which I will
now refer.
In these figures, each carriage a has at its lower portion the recess into which
the extremity of a lever c takes, as before described, the lever being capable
of rocking upon a support d which has a rising and falling motion imparted to
it for the purpose of engaging and disengaging the ends of the different levers
from the recesses of the corresponding carriages a at the desired moment, sub-
stantially as before described.
This vertically reciprocating motion may be effected as hitherto described, or

page_text: instead, for example, by a cam e, Figs. 12 and 13, keyed upon a shaft f which
receives motion from the main driving shaft of the machine.
The machine is furnished with as many levers c as there are carriages a, and
all the levers are preferably placed at the back of the loom so that the front may
be quite open.
Each lever according to whether it oscillates to the right or the left moves
the carriage a corresponding to it either backwards or forwards, so as to throw
it into engagement with the front catch bar g or the rear catch bar h, as has been
generally described, and in this arrangement of mechanism, Figs. 12 and 13, the
oscillating motion of the levers c is produced as follows:
Each lever is jointed to a draw bar i terminating in a hook having steps
so arranged that the draw bar i shall be shifted in one direction or the other by
the bar or the bar j, according to the position which the draw bar occupies.
These two bars jj move transversely in opposite directions, as did the boxes j j¹
in the previous figures, the one, the bar moving from front to rear, the other
the bar from back to front; this reciprocating motion is communicated to the
bars by a shaft k, which has a rocking motion imparted to it by the driving
shaft 1.
Each draw bar has besides a projection or finger to which corresponds a
needle m.
All these needles are carried in and guided by a double comb n as shewn in
Figures 13 and 14. These needles pass through two boxes o enclosing two series
of metal bars, pierced with holes, and operated by a Jacquard p; see Fig. 12
the two boxes are mounted upon one frame which has a rising and falling
motion imparted to it.
This rising and falling motion may be communicated by any suitable device
for example by means of a lever acted upon by a cam 7 keyed upon the shaft f.
According to whether a needle is brought over a solid portion of the bar or
over a hole, so the needle will take part or not in the rising and falling motion of
the boxes o and the amount of motion derived will be total or partial according
to the position of the holes.
Under these conditions, when the boxes o rise, if the two series of bars present
. holes to a needle, this needle will pass through them, and so remain in-operative,
exercising no action upon the draw bar i which will remain in its lowest position;
in this position the bar j will come in contact with the tooth and will draw
the draw bar as it moves, backward, while the bar j¹ passes above the bar
without touching it, the lever c swinging backward throws the carriage a into
engagement with the rear catch bar g.
If the bars of the lower box bring a solid portion, and the bars of the upper a
hole opposite a needle this needle will be actuated for only a portion of the
course of the boxes o and the draw bar i will be raised at half travel; in this
position, which is the one shewn in the drawing the bars will engage respec-
tively with the teeth and of the hook, the depth of these indents being
equal to the travel of the bars; when these latter arrive at the end of their travel
they block the claw of the drawbar and hold it fast so that it can move the
lever c neither backwards or forwards, and consequently the carriage a remains
stationary..
If the bars of the upper box bring a solid portion opposite a needle then the
needle is operated during the whole upward movement of the boxes o and the
draw bar is lifted to its extreme position; in this case the bar coming in
contact with the part of the claw pushes the draw bar i forward while the bar j
passes below the claw, the lever c swings forward and throws the carriage a
into action with the front catch bar h.
The fingers of the draw bars are alternately long and short and correspond
to the long and short needles m and m¹ as shewn in Fig. 13, the long fingers
serve in addition as guides to the draw bars with short fingers as well as to their
needles and the arrangement permits of the parts being made of great thickness.

page_text: A tongue in one with the boxes o enters the indents c¹ of the levers c when the
frame is at the top of its travel, for the purpose of guiding the lever c during
ts rise and to ensure its entering the indent 6 of the carriage which it drives.
The metal bars enclosed in the boxes o are coupled as shewn in Fig. 12 to
the draw bars s of any suitable and well known Jacquard apparatus, and pre-
ferably to a Jacquard mechanism operating thin bars.
To allow the bars to be regulated with respect to the needies which they operate,
auxiliary draw bars Fig. 15 may be interposed between the bars and the
draw bats s of the Jacquard.
These latter draw bars s have holes, the spacing out of which correspond to the
division of the machine, the auxiliary draw bars t presenting on the contrary holes
more or less apart, so that .in changing from a hole, on the one hand the hook
of the bar which catches into the auxiliary draw barst and on the other hand
the hook of the auxiliary draw bar t which catches into the draw bar s of the
Jacquard, the bar is raised or lowered an amount corresponding to the difference
between two divisions.
It will be understood that the same metal bars serve for all sorts of designs,
their relative position alone varies according to the patterns to be obtained and
this position is controlled by the Jacquard.
The catch bars g h receive, by the aid of levers and cranks, an angular motion
These catch bars com-
produced by a cam u keyed upon the driving shaft v.
municate with carriages a which they set in motion either backward or forward
so as to traverse the carriages from the central comb bars to the front or rear
comb bars all as first described.
When the machine closes, the catch bars push the carriages toward and keep
them in the centre, and when the loom opens the catch bars extend at the same
These catch bars then pass
time as the carriages are thrust by the levers c.
above the tails of the carriages lying in the centre, and fall into the indents of
the carriages shifted by the levers c, only after having passed over the indents of
the carriages lying in the centre.
The reciprocating motion of the outer comb bars longitudinally of the machine
is produced in the example Figs. 12 and 13, by a lever w moving around an
axis and receiving its oscillatory motion from the cam operated by the
driving shaft Figs. 12 and 13.
Each outer comb bar has a driving device at each of its ends so that it may be
drawn in both directions.
The comb bars in their traverse motion carry with them the catch bars which
hold the carriages in the comb bars.
The reciprocating movement of the outer comb bars may even be produced
by a spindle having two contrary screw threads upon which are mounted the
two tappet sleeves of the two supports of the comb bars (see Fig. 16).
According to whether the spindle is rotated in one direction or the other the
two sleeves will approach or recede from each other and will thus impart a
reciprocating motion to the corresponding comb bars.
When in action the levers receive first of all a rising motion so as to engage
with the indents of the carriages a, then each lever receives under the influence
of its driving device a displacement either forwards or backwards, so as to throw
its carriage into engagement either with the front or rear catch bar or remains
stationary when its carriage is not to move.
All the levers are lowered so as to disengage the carriages a, the catch bars
separate from each other and draw the carriages along which they have seized
upon the rear comb bars; these latter receive together a traverse motion one
from right to left the other from left to right so that the bobbin threads of the
carriages carried by the comb bars shall cross when the carriages are again
5 brought back by their catch bar to their central comb bars.
In addition the comb bars receive a traverse motion in the opposite direction

page_text: so that a twist is obtained when two successive crossings take place in the same
direction as before described:
It will be understood that my improved devices may be varied in form and
dimensions and may be even further modified as to the mere arrangements of
detail to suit different applications.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of this
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is:-
1. In driving the carriages in machines used in the manufacture of tulle, lace,
and the like, controlling the movements of the said carriages for crossing and
twisting the threads by means of Jacquard apparatus, the said carriages being
driven by levers c actuated by needles carried in a frame or frames, the said
needles causing the levers c to operate or not, according to the position of pierced
blades with which the needles co-act, the position of the blades being controlled
by a Jacquard apparatus, all substantially as and for the purposes described.
2. The construction and arrangement-of mechanism for controlling and driving
the carriages in machines used in the manufacture of tulle, lace, and the like,
substantially as described with special. reference to Figs. 1 to 5 of the accom-
panying drawings.
3. The modified constructions and arrangements of the devices described with
reference to Figs. 6 and 7 forming parts of the apparatus for controlling and
driving the carriages in machines used in the manufacture of tulle, lace, and
the like, substantially as described.
4. The construction and arrangement of mechanism for controlling and driving
the carriages used in the manufacture of tulle, lace, and the like, substantially as
described with reference to Figs. 12 to 16 of the accompanying drawings.
Dated this 19th day of February 1900.
BREWER & SON,
London & Leeds, Agents for the 'Applicant.