Improvements in Over-seaming Fabrics and in Sewing Machines therefor.
Year: 1892

page_text: Date of Application, 5th Apr., 1892-Accepted, 10th Sept., 1892
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
[Communicated from abroad by THE SINGER MANUFACTURING COMPANY, of
New York, in the United States of America, Sewing Machine Manufacturers.]
Improvements in Over-seaming Fabrics and in Sewing
Machines therefor.
I, Alexander ANDERSON Manager of the Singer Manufacturing Company's
Works, Kilbowie, Dumbartonshire, do hereby declare the nature of this invention.
and in what manner the same is to be performed (as communicated to me) to
be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
The first part of my invention relates to the art of over-seaming, and has for
its object the production of an over-seam which may be employed for binding and
ornamenting the edges of fabrics or in working button holes in such a way that a
purl edge will be produced on both sides of the work, so that both sides of the
latter will have the same, or substantially the same appearance. This is a great
desideratum, especially for button-holes both sides of which are liable to be
exposed.
+
In carrying my invention into effect I first pass a loop of what may be termed a
first or sewing thread through the fabric and near the edge thereof; I next pass
a loop of a second or looping thread through the first loop and toward the
edge of the fabric; I then pass a loop of a third thread through the second loop
and across the fabric edge and then a loop of a fourth thread through the third
loop and from the edge of the fabric, and then pass a loop of the sewing thread
from which the first loop was formed through the fourth loop and the fabric and
in a different position from the first loop to complete what may be termed the first
stitch and commence the second stitch, and subsequently tighten the said loops;
these operations being repeated by passing a loop of the thread from which the
second loop was formed through a loop of the first or sewing thread, and so on for
the different threads in the order above named. Preferably the first or sewing thread,
from which the first loop and its repetitions are formed, is held with a comparatively
light tension, while the threads from which the other loops and their repetitions
are formed are held with a heavier tension, so that in tightening the stitches the
loops of the first or sewing thread are drawn to the edge of the fabric on both sides
of the work and are there enchained with the loops of the second and fourth
threads, thereby producing a purl at the edge of the fabric on both sides of the
work; the second and fourth threads being interlooped along the edge of the fabric
not only with the loops of the first thread but also with the loops of the third
thread. From this it results that the edge of the work is strongly protected by a
series of enchained loops formed from four threads, and by using different colored
threads very pleasing ornamental effects may be secured.
In the accompanying drawings illustrating this part of my invention Figs. 1, 2, 3
and 4 are diagramatic views illustrating the practice of my invention. Figs. 5
and 6 are diagramatic plan views of the work from opposite sides, Fig. 5 being a
top view and Fig. 6 a bottom view, and Fig. 7 is a diagramatic edge view of the
same. Figs. 8 and 9 are top and bottom diagramatic views, respectively, illustrative
of my improved over-seam with the tension of the needle thread tight enough to
draw the looping threads slightly over or back from the edges of the fabrics.
Fig. 10 is a diagramatic view to show a cord at the fabric edges enclosed by my
improved over-seam.
A denotes sections of fabrics to be over-seamed, and a, b, c and d denote the
four threads which I prefer to employ in carrying my invention into effect; and
in so doing 1 pass a loop of the sewing thread a through the fabric or fabrics near

page_text: the edge or edges thereof, as denoted in Fig. 1 ; I next pass a loop of the thread b
through the loop of the sewing thread a and toward the edge of the fabric, as in
Fig. 2; I next pass a loop of the thread c through the second loop formed by the
thread b and across the edge of the fabric, as in Fig. 3; I next pass a loop of the
thread d through a loop of the thread c and from the edge of the fabric, as in
Fig. 4, and a loop of the first or sewing thread a is then passed through the loop
of the thread d and the fabric, to complete the cycle of operations and to commence
what may be termed a new stitch, these operations being continued by passing a
loop of the thread 6 through the second loop of the thread a and so on; the
several loops which enter into the formation of the stitch being gradually and
successively tightened.
By holding the first or sewing thread a with a comparatively light tension and
the second, third and fourth threads, b, c and d with a heavier tension, the loops of
the thread a will be drawn over to the edge of the fabric on both sides of the work;
and being enchained at said edge with the loops of the thread b and d, respectively,
a double purl-edge over-seam is formed which has substantially the same appearance
on both sides of the work, as hereinbefore stated. The looping threads b, c and d
which are enchained with the thread a and with each other, lie along the edge of
the over-seamed fabric when the stitches are tightened, and thus form a strong
covering for the fabric edge and produce a very durable and strong, button hole;
and if it be desired to produce ornamental overedge work differently colored threads
can be employed in the production of the same, thus resulting in very pleasing
ornamental effects.
While for some classes of work, such as button-holes, I prefer to have the tension
of the sewing thread a slack enough so that the loops thereof will be drawn to the
edge of the fabric on both sides of the work, I do not wish to be understood as
limiting my invention to this particular arrangement of the loops of the sewing
thread a, as for some other classes of work (for example, in making ornamental
edgings) the tension of the 'sewing thread a may be sufficiently tight so that the
loops thereof may not extend quite to the edges of the fabric and in such case
the looping threads and d will somewhat overlap the said edges, as shewn in
Figs. 8 and 9.
In using my improved stitch in over-seaming, as in over-seaming the edges of
lace curtains and similar delicate fabrics, I prefer to employ one or more cords
which are enclosed by the overedge stitch. Fig. 10 illustrates, in a diagramatic
way, a cord e enclosed by the over-seam at the edges of the fabrics.
It will be clearly apparent, more particularly from Figs. 1, 2, 3 and 4 that the four
threads constituting my improved over-seam are all interlooped with each other,
that is to say a bight or doubled portion of thread is passed through the preceding
Joop or bight of thread, and the term "interlooped" as used in the claims of this
Specification will therefore be understood to mean a loop or bight or doubled
portion of thread passed through another loop or bight or doubled portion of thread,
the term "interlooped" thus distinguishing my improved over-seam from a four
thread over-seam in which a single length of thread is passed through or "locked
into loops of needle thread or in which a single thread is wound in a serpentine
course around the needle thread.
"
The second part of my invention has for its object to provide a stitch-forming
mechanism by which the four-thread over-seam herein before fully set forth may be
made. To this end I employ, in connection with an ordinary eye-pointed needle
arranged above the work, a second eye-pointed needle arranged beneath the work,
and two thread carrying and spreader accompanied loopers; one arranged above
and the other beneath the work. These needles and loopers are successively
operated so that the upper or puncturing needle first descends through the work
and as it begins to rise its loop is entered by the lower looper the loop of which is
opened by its spreader for the upward passage thereinto of the lower needle
arranged to carry its thread over the edge of the work; the loop of the lower
'

page_text: needle, as the latter descends, being entered by the upper thread carrying looper
the loop of which latter is opened by its spreader to permit the upper or puncturing
needle in its next descent to pass through the same; this cycle of operations being
constantly repeated during the operation of the machine.
In the accompanying drawings illustrating this part of my invention, Fig. 11 is
a side view, partly in section, of a sewing machine embodying my invention. Fig 12
is a plan view of the same with the arm broken_away. Fig. 13 is a bottom view
and Fig. 14 a front end view of the same. Fig. 15 is a vertical section on
line 15-15, Fig. 1, looking in the direction of the arrows adjacent to said line.
Figs. 16 to 23 inclusive, are detail views to shew various parts.
A denotes the work plate, B the arm and C the main or driving shaft journalled
in the upper part of the arm and having at its forward end a crank c connected by
a pitman & with the needle-bar D carrying the eye-pointed needle d', these parts
being of ordinary and well known construction.
E denotes an eccentric mounted on the main shaft C and connected by a rod e
with the rear end of a lever F pivoted beneath the work plate and carrying at its
forward end the lower eye-pointed needle f
The connection between the rod e and
lever F is a loose one afforded by a ball and socket joint to permit the parts to
move freely on each other.
On the shaft is also mounted the grooved cam G entered by a pin or roller at
the upper end of a vertical lever H to the lower end of which is attached the rear
end of a pitman I connected at its forward end to an arm of a rocker K
journalled on the stud L and provided with a second arın carrying the lower eye-
pointed looper m. The said arm ' also carries the pivoted loop-spreader n for the
looper m, said spreader being of well known form and being normally held in place
with its fork above the eye of the looper by a spring n¹ bearing against the tail-
piece of the said spreader. A stop a on the work-plate and arranged in the
path of movement of the said tail-piece serves to turn the spreader on its pivot
against the stress of the spring n', as shewn in Fig. 23, to cause said spreader to
open the loop of the looper m for the passage of the lower needle f.
The upper eye-pointed thread carrying looper p is attached to the lower end of a
lever P pivoted to the head or depending portion B' at the forward end of the
arm B and operated by a grooved barrel cam Q at the forward end of the main
shaft C. The looper pis provided with a pivoted spreader r having a tail piece r
against which presses a spring ² to hold said spreader in line with the said looper
and with the fork of former beneath the eye of the latter. T is a depending arm
attached to the head B' and having its lower end arranged in the path of movement
of the tail piece of the spreader r to serve as a stop to operate said spreader
to cause it, at the proper moment, to open the loop of thread carried by the
looper p for the passage of the upper needle d. (See Figs. 11, 17 and 18.)
I prefer to employ an ordinary needle-bar take up O for drawing up the loops of
the puncturing needle d. Ordinary take-up or check-springs (not shown) will be
sufficient for the lower threads.
The feeding mechanism herein shown consists of a suitable feed dog attached
to a feed bar V joined to arms w at the forward end of a rock-shaft W having at
its rear end an arm w' to which is connected the bar X operated by the cam r on
the shaft C. The feed bar V is provided with a pin or roller o entering a cam
groove formed in the vertical rocker K which operates the lower looper.
This feeding mechanism is essentially the same as that employed in the well-
known "Singer Vibrating Shuttle" machine and therefore forms no part of my
invention.
The stitch-forming mechanism, constructed as above described, is timed to
operate as follows: The work being placed in position with the edge thereof a
suitable distance inside or to the right of the upper or puncturing needle d' and the
machine being started said needle first descends carrying its thread through the
work near the edge thereof, and as the said needle rises and throws out a loop

page_text: t
the latter is entered by the lower looper m which carries a loop of its own thread
through the needle loop, the looper loop being then opened by the spreader n.
The lower eye-pointed needle now rises carrying a loop of its own thread through
the loop of the lower looper thread and past (or inside of) the edge of the work,
and the upper looper then advances and seizes the loop of the lower needle thread,
and said needle is then retracted, the lower looper having been retracted as soon as
the lower needle had taken its loop. The upper looper having passed a loop of its
own thread through the lower needle's loop is now forward in position beneath the
upper needle and the upper looper's loop being opened by the spreader ŕ is thus
held until the upper needle has entered the same when the said looper is retracted.
Thus the operation continues producing an overedge stitch seam of which only one
thread is passed through the material while the other three threads are enchained
or interlooped therewith and with each other; the tensions of the lower needle
thread and of the two looper threads being so adjusted relative to the tension of
the upper needle thread and to each other as to draw the loops of the latter to the
edge of the work and thus form a "purl along said edge on both sides of
the work, making an overedge or button-hole seam having a finished appearance
on both sides.
"
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed (as communicated to me)
I declare that what I claim is :-
:-
1. The combination with a fabric or fabrics, of an over-seam consisting of a
sewing thread successively passing through said fabric or fabrics near the edge or
edges thereof, and three looping threads, one of which is interlooped with loops of
the said sewing thread formed on the underside of the work, another of which is
interlooped with loops of the said sewing thread formed on the upper side of the
work, and the 'third of which is interlooped with the other two looping threads
only.
2. The combination with a fabric or fabrics, of an over-seam consisting of a
sewing thread successively penetrating the said fabric or fabrics near the edge or
edges thereof and formed into loops on both sides of the fabric, the said loops
being extended from the points of penetration to the fabric edge or edges, and
three looping threads interlooped with the said sewing thread and with each
cther along the edge of the fabric.
3. An overedge stitch forming mechanism consisting of an eye-pointed needle
arranged above the work plate of the machine, an eye-pointed needle arranged
beneath the work plate of the machine, a thread carrying looper arranged above
the work plate of the machine and provided with a loop spreader, and a thread
carrying looper arranged beneath the work plate of the machine and also provided
with a loop spreader, combined with mechanism for operating said needles, loopers
and spreaders.
4. In an over-seaming sewing machine, the combination with a vertically
reciprocating, puncturing eye-pointed needle arranged above the work-plate of the
machine, of a horizontally reciprocating thread-carrying looper and co-operating
spreader beneath said work-plate and arranged to enter the loops of upper needle
thread, a vertically reciprocating eye-pointed needle also placed below said work-
plate and arranged to enter the loops of lower looper-thread, a horizontally
- reciprocating thread carrying looper and co-operating spreader placed above said
work-plate and arranged to enter the loops of lower needle thread, and mechanism
for successively operating said upper needle, lower looper and spreader, lower
needle and upper looper and spreader in the order named.
'
5. In an over-seaming sewing machine, the combination with the driving shaft C
provided with the crank c, the eccentric E and the cams G and Q, of the needle-
bar D connected with said crank and carrying the eye-pointed puncturing.
needie 'd', the rod e, the lever F to the rear end of which said rod is connected

page_text: and which is provided at its forward end with the lower eye-pointed needle f, the
lever H, the rocker K, the lower looper and spreader carried by said rocker,
the pitman I connecting said rocker with said lever H, the lever P, the upper
looper and spreader carried by said lever P, and suitable operating devices for
said spreaders.
Dated this Fourth day of April 1892.
CRUIKSHANK & FAIRWEATHER,
62, St. Vincent Street, Glasgow, Agents.