Improvements in the Manufacture of Piled Fabrics known as "Genoa Cords."
Year: 1896

page_text: Date of Application, 13th May, 1896-Accepted, 13th June, 1896
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Piled Fabrics known as
"Genoa Cords."
We JOHN GREY, Salesman, of 12 Church View, and WILLIAM TAYLOR,
Weaving Manager, of 6 Church View, both of Norden, near Rochdale, in the
County of Lancaster, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement :-
Our invention consists of an improved method of manufacturing, what are known
in the trade as "Genoa cords," whereby an improved back retaining an even and
full pile is made, thereby closing the space between the ribs of the pile and
covering up the back or ground-work, which shews through in the ordinary make
of Genoa cords," especially in light goods.
For the purposes of our invention we employ a loom of ordinary construction in
which tappets or chain motions, varying from 6 to 100 or any other convenient
number to the round are used. The weft being floated over the warp for producing
races which when cut form the face or pile of the cord, and the back or ground
picks are thrown in after the requisite number of floating picks have been
introduced.
In making "Genoa cords" it is customary to put two face or pile picks between
each back or ground pick, but in making light weights it is usual to put one pile
pick between the first two ground picks and then two pile picks between the next
two ground picks and so on alternately until the pattern is complete. This is
necessary in order to bind the pile firmly in a light weight cord and to shew a
finer twill on the back. Thus robbing the pile of one pick between every alternate
ground pick.
Our improved method of weaving "Genoa cords" will be readily understood
from the following description reference being had to the sheet of illustrative
diagrams hereunto annexed.
Fig. 1 shows the ground or foundation plan which we use, being an eight end
twill.
Fig. 2 is the pile plan of the ordinary "Genoa cord," and
Fig. 3 is the pile plan of our improved "Genoa cord."
Fig. 4 is the complete design being a combination of Figs. 1 and 3, and Fig. 5 a
modification of the same.
According to our invention the face or pile is not robbed at all eveu in light
weights as the two face or pile picks are still kept in between each back or ground
pick, and to do this, we prefer to use an eight end twill as shewn in Fig. 1 of the
diagrams hereunto aunexed. This closes up the back by causing a closer inter-
section of threads than has been previously used for this purpose, thus making the
back appear finer.
With regard to that section of cord known as the pile, in the ordinary make of
"Genoa cord," the pile is bound by two ends, for each rib, the weft floating over
the warp threads 6 and 8 ends alternately as shown in Fig. 2. This leaves a bare
space between each rib, when cut, shewing the back or groundwork, which is
unsightly and objectionable.
According to our invention the pile is bound by four warp threads for each rib
as shewn on Fig. 3.

page_text: The first pick is bound by the first and fourth threads and floats over the 5th,
6th, 7th, and 8th. The second pick is bound by the third thread and floats
over 4, 5, 6, 7 8, 1, 2. The third pick is bound by the first and fourth threads and
floats over the 5th, 6th, 7th, and 8th. The fourth pick is bound by the second
thread and floats over the 3rd, 4th, 5th, 6th, 7th, 8th, and 1st. The fifth pick is
bound by the first and third threads and floats over the 4th, 5th, 6th, 7th, and 8th.
The sixth pick is bound by the third thread and floats over the 4th, 5th, 6th, 7th,
8th, 1st, and 2nd.
The seventh pick is bound by the second and fourth threads and floats over the
5th, 6th, 7th, 8th, and 1st.
The eighth pick is bound by the second thread and floats over the 3rd, 4th, 5th,
6th, 7th, 8th, and 1st.
This pattern shews pile picks floating in lengths over 4, 5 and 7 threads. When
the races forming this pile are cut, it gives the pile a fuller and better appearance
and covers up the back, the distance between the pile ribs being loosened by being
bound by four ends instead of two.
Fig. 4 shews the complete design of improved Genoa cord, with the twill on the
back of the cloth running to the left hand. Numbers 1 to 8 represent the warp
threads and numbers 1 to 24 represent the weft picks. The crosses in the squares
represent the warp threads raised above the weft picks, and the blank spaces
represent the weft picks floating over the warp threads.
Fig. 5 shews the same design, but with the twill on the back of the cloth running
to the right hand.
We would bere remark that although we have described and illustrated our
improved "Genoa cord" as made with an eight end twill back or foundation, we do
not wish to confine ourselves to such eight end twill back or foundation nor yet to
the exact pattern of pile shewn at Fig. 3, as it might be possible to modify our
invention by combining our pile plan Fig. 3, or any modification thereof with a
broken twill or other back retaining an even and full pile and at the same time
closing or reducing the space between the ribs.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what we
claim is :-
First. The manufacture of an improved "Genoa cord" substantially in the
manner hereinbefore described and illustrated by the diagrams annexed.
Secondly. We also claim the combination of the eight end twill shewn at Fig. 1
with the ordinary "Genoa " pile shewn at Fig. 2, and
Thirdly. We claim the combination of the eight end twill with any modification
of the improved "Genoa " pile Fig. 3.
Dated this 19th dow of Mov 1896
GEO. DAVIES & SON,
4, St. Ann's Square, Manchester, Agents for the Applicants.