IMPROVE- MENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES OR OTHER COVERINGS FOR THE FEET
Year: 1854

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Julian Bernard, of Club Chambers, Regent Street,
in the County of Middlesex, Gentleman, for the Invention of "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES OR OTHER COVERINGS FOR
THE FEET."
Sealed the 9th February 1855, and dated the 17th August 1854.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Julian Bernard at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 17th
August 1854.
I, JULIAN BERNARD, of Club Chambers, Regent Street, in the County of
Middlesex, Gentleman, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES OR OTHER COVERINGS
FOR THE FEET" to be as follows:-
This Invention relates to a mode or modes of uniting the soles and heels to
the uppers of boots and shoes or other coverings for the feet, and it may be
carried into effect either under the ordinary system of manufacturing such
articles, or in conjunction more or less with the various systems or processes
of manufacturing boots and shoes for which I have already obtained grants
of British Letters Patent.
The present new system of attachment is suitable either for the permanent
fastening of the parts independently of all further means, or it may be adopted

page_text: simply as a temporary means for holding the surfaces in firm contact until
further secured, either by the aid of "elastic waterproof fastenings," pegs, or
other convenient means; and when the parts to be connected are to be
temporarily joined, paste, glue, or other convenient adhesive substance will
answer the purpose, inasmuch as such holding means need not necessarily be
of a permanently holding character nor of a waterproof nature.
In some
instances, however, a cement which is both of a permanently binding character
and waterproof is used, combined or not with other fastenings.
The "upper" having been disposed upon the last, and secured in any
suitable manner to the inner sole by its edges, and also prepared for the
reception of an additional or outer sole, or soles and heels, the last with the
parts upon it is secured in a recessed chamber or opening, and a coating of
any suitable adhesive material, waterproof or otherwise, is then applied to the
bottom of the boot or shoe under treatment; and, if desirable, a further coating
may be applied to the additional sole or other detailed portion intended to be
united. -
The parts are then placed in their proper position as regards each other,
and a lid or cover is afterwards brought down upon or in contact with the
chamber in which the boot or shoe is placed. The chamber is arranged so as
to close down air-tight upon the boot or shoe, and a partial vacuum is pro-
duced in the chamber by opening a communication between it and any suitable
exhauster. A rod is contrived to work air tight through the lid or top of the
chamber, this rod having attached to its internal end a presser, of the shape
of the sole or part to be pressed, and covered with an elastic or yielding
material; or, instead of having an elastic presser surface, the surface of the
last may be elastic, whilst the presser itself is inelastic, either plain or orna-
mental. The sole may be kept up prior to the pressing action taking place
by the aid of a vacuum effect; then, when the parts are arranged, the joining
pressure is effected by forcing down the rod, so as to bring the surfaces
into complete contact, there being no air present to interfere with the
junction.
The presser rod may be actuated externally by an eccentric screw or other
mechanical contrivance, but it is preferred to actuate it by hydrostatic pressure.
For this end the outer extremity of the rod is made to answer as a duplex
piston or plunger, which is fitted into a cylinder above, this cylinder having a
fixed division in its centre. The plunger rod works through this central
division, and there being a separate piston or plunger on each side of the
division, the actuating water being suitably directed so as to act upon one or
other of the piston surfaces, and thus impart a reciprocatory, action, as may. be

page_text: required. The pressure cylinder with its piston and the chamber for holding
the boot or shoe are secured in a frame, the chamber lid being free, with liberty
to slide upon the piston rod, and to be set at any elevation by a tightening
screw.
In some instances it is preferred to heat the intended contact surfaces of the
materials with the composition or cement upon them immediately before the
actual joining. This may be accomplished in the chamber by means of a steam,
air, or water heated surface passed in between the parts to be united. It is
also sometimes preferred to unite the parts in a dry state; in some cases drying.
the boot or shoe prior to filling the holes with the material used as the per-
manent and final fastenings, as described in the Specifications of my previous
Inventions.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Julian Bernard in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
17th February 1855.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JULIAN
BERNARD, of Club Chambers, Regent Street, in the County of Middlesex,
Gentleman, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Seventeenth day of August, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-four, in the eighteenth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the
said Julian Bernard, IIer special license that I, the said Julian Bernard,
my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said
Julian Bernard, my executors, administrators, or assigns, should at any
time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times.thereafter
during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use;
exercise, and vend, within the United. Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland,
the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE
MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS & SHOES OP OTHER COVERINGS FOR THE FEET," upon the
condition (amongst others) that I, the said Julian Bernard, by an instrument
in writing under my hand and seal, should particularly describe and ascertain
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be
performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office
within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said
Letters Patent.

page_text: NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Julian Bernard, do hereby declare
the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement, reference being had to the accompanying Drawings, and to the
letters and figures marked thereon, that is to say :-
My said Invention relates to a mode or modes of uniting the soles and heels
to the uppers of boots and shoes or other coverings for the feet, and it may
be carried into effect either under the ordinary system of manufacturing such
articles, or in conjunction more or less with the various systems or processes of
manufacturing boots and shoes for which I have already obtained grants of
Letters Patent.
The present new system of attachment is suitable either for the permanent
fastening of the parts, independently of all further means, or it may be adopted
simply as a temporary means for holding the surfaces in firm contact until
further secured, either by the aid of "elastic waterproof fastenings, pegs, or
other convenient means; and when the parts to be connected are to be
temporarily joined, paste, glue, or other convenient adhesive substance will
answer the purpose, inasmuch as such holding means need not necessarily be
of a permanently holding character nor of a waterproof nature. In some
instances, however, a cement which is both of a permanently binding character
and waterproof is used, combined or not with other fastenings. The "upper"
having been disposed upon the last, and secured in any suitable manner to the
inner sole by its edges, and also prepared for the reception of an additional
or outer soul or soles and heels, the last with the parts upon it is secured
in a recessed chamber or opening, and a coating of any suitable adhesive
material, waterproof or otherwise, is then applied to the bottom of the boot or
shoe under treatment; and, if desirable, a further coating may be applied to
the additional sole or other detailed portion intended to be united.
The parts are then placed in the proper position as regards each other, and
a lid or cover is afterwards brought down upon or in contact with the chamber
in which the boot or shoe is placed. The chamber is arranged so as to close
down air-tight upon the boot or shoe, and a partial vacuum is produced in the
chamber by opening the communication between it and any suitable exhauster.
A rod is contrived to work air-tight through the lid or top of the chamber,
this rod having attached to its internal end a presser of the shape of the sole
or part to be pressed, and covered with an elastic or yielding material; or,
instead of having an elastic presser surface, the surface of the last may be
elastic, whilst the presser itself is inelastic, either plain or ornamental. The
sole may be kept up prior to the pressing action taking place by the aid of a
D

page_text: vacuum effect; then, when the parts are arranged, the joining pressure is
effected by forcing. down the rod, so as to bring the surfaces into complete
contact, there being no air present to interfere with the junction.
The presser rod may be actuated externally by an eccentric, screw or other
mechanical contrivance, but it is preferred to actuate it by hydrostatic pressure.
For this end the outer extremity of the rod is made to answer as a duplex
piston or plunger, which is fitted into a cylinder above, this cylinder having a
fixed division in its centre. The plunger rod works through this central division,
and there being a separate piston or plunger on each side of the division, the
actuating water being suitably directed so as to act upon one or other of the
piston surfaces, and thus impart a reciprocatory action, as may be required.
The pressure cylinder with its piston and a chamber for holding the boot or
shoe are secured in a frame, the chamber lid being free, with liberty to slide
upon the piston rod, and to be set at any elevation by a tightening screw. In
some instances it is preferred to heat the intended contact surfaces of the
materials with the composition or cement upon them immediately before the
actual joining. This may be accomplished in the chamber by means of a
steam, air, or water heated surface passed in between the parts to be united.
It is also sometime to be preferred. to unite the parts in a dry state, in some
cases.drying the boot or shoe. prior to filling the holes with the material used
as the permanent and final fastenings, as described in the Specifications of my
previous Inventions..
My Invention consists, firstly, of a novel mode or modes of uniting. or
attaching the outer soles and heels to the uppers of boots and shoes previous
to such parts being permanently united, and such parts may be united by any
suitable known means, such as paste, glue, or other suitable adhesive substance;
and such adhesive substance need not of necessity be of a permanently binding
or adhesive nature, nor of a waterproof nature, as the object of this part of my
Invention is the holding of the surfaces of the before-mentioned parts in firm
and close contact until further secured by means of a more effective and per-
manent fastening, such as pegs, screws, or any other well-known suitable
means. In some instances, however, when it is thought desirable to render
the boot or shoe waterproof, or partially waterproof, I employ, from preference,
a suitable waterproof cement or solution, such as gutta percha, dissolved in
any well-known solvent, which is brushed or otherwise spread over the parts
to be united. When the adhesive substance to be employed, whether waterproof
or simply glue or paste, is applied, the parts are pressed together, as herein-
after described, and retained under pressure until the parts become sufficiently
dry and set, this giving to the boot or shoe great firmness, when the boot or

page_text: shoe is then further and permanently united by the means already referred to.
And in reference to this part of my Invention, I desire it to be distinctly.
understood that I lay no claim whatever to having discovered or invented any
new adhesive material, nor do I claim the employment of any waterproof
adhesive solution or material alone or in combination with other fastenings;
but what I consider this part of my Invention to consist of is, the uniting the
soles and heels of boots and shoes or other covering for the feet to the other
parts, for the purpose and in the manner herein-before and herein-after
described and illustrated, as a preliminary or temporary mode of closely holding
together the different parts referred to until finally and permanently secured
together.
Fig. 1, on Sheet 1 of the Drawings, represents a boot, partly in section,
shewing part of an inner sole, upper, and outer sole.
The portion a, a, a,
exhibits the different parts referred to closely united together by means of
simple glue. The portion b, which is represented by the red line, illustrates
parts permanently secured by means of pegs.
or
Fig. 2 represents part of a shoe in section, and permanently united by
means of screws, having been previously united by an adhesive substance. The
mode of uniting the sole or heel to the upper and inner sole is as follows:-
The upper being "lasted "mounted," and secured by pegs or any
well-known means to the inner sole or "sock," it is placed in the chamber of
the machine exhibited at Sheet 2 of my Drawings, the action, and parts of
which machine will be more fully described in reference to and in connection
with the second part or head of my Invention, the said machine being appli-
cable for practically carrying into effect both heads of my Invention. The
adhesive glue or solution is then spread, by means of a brush or otherwise,
over the surface to be united, and herein-before referred to. The outer sole is
then placed over or above the other parts, and suitably adjusted in relation to
such parts. This operation performed, the let-off cock band the pressure
cock opened, is closed, which being in connection with a suitable hydrostatic
force pump, the piston D with the chamber or box containing the boot or
shoe is forced against the presser F, attached to the suspended part. or parts F
and F, and in this manner and by these means the parts are united by means
of pressure, and left under or subject to pressure, until sufficiently dry and firm
to be removed for the purpose of being further secured.
The second part of my Invention relates to and consists of a novel mode of
securing or uniting the outer soles and heels of boots and shoes to the upper
and other parts, when an adhesive substance or material is employed for
uniting such parts permanently and independently of any other means, or

page_text: in combination with any other known fastening, and consists of uniting such
parts in vacuum or a partial vacuum, by which means a perfect contact of
surface is secured, and a universal adhesion of surface obtained with great
nicety and accuracy.
Sheet 2 of my Drawings hereunto attached shews a side elevation of a
machine, partly in section, which I employ for carrying this portion of my
Invention into effect. A represents an upright frame or stand, on the pro-
jecting bracket B of which is placed or secured a hydrostatic cylinder C, with
its ram or piston D, and on which is placed the shoc-holding box or chamber E.
The suspended rod or part F, which is in the top of the framing by the nut, as
shewn, has a cross head F upon it, and between which cross head and the
shoe is placed a piece of india-rubber F, which presents a yielding surface to
the sole of the boot or shoe undergoing pressure. There is a chamber G
through which the part F passes air-tight, it being surrounded by the stuffing
box of the said chamber, as exhibited; and india-rubber ring or packing I,
placed upon the chamber E, serves to complete or insure an air-tight joint
when the two chambers are forced against each other, the lower chamber by
means of the hydrostatic cylinder, and the upper chamber by means of the
coiled spring K, K. The manner of working this machine is as follows:―
Assuming the ram D to be down, or in the position exhibited by the dotted
line a, the boot or shoe is disposed in the box as shewn, but without its outer
sole, and a suitable adhesive glue or solution applied to the outer sole, and to
the part of the boot or shoe to which it is about to be united; the sole 1 is
then laid over the other part, taking caro that it is properly adjusted. This
performed, the operator shuts the let-off cock 6, and opens the pressure cock b',
which communicates with an hydrostatic force pump, which has the effect of
bringing together the shoe leather E and the chamber G before the sole comes
in contact with the presser F; the shoo is therefore enclosed in an air-tight
chamber, from which, by opening the air cock c, which is in connection with
any convenient air-extracting machine, the air is completely or sufficiently
extracted from and around the parts to be united before such parts are pressed.
In this manner and by these means I unite the parts already referred to, and
obtain a perfect contact of surface, no air being present to vitiate the joining.
And I would remark that I do not limit or confine myself to the mechanical
arrangements which I have found convenient to exhibit, nor do I limit or
confine myself to any particular or special mechanical arrangements for
carrying this part of my Invention into effect, as I declare this second part of
my Invention to consist of uniting boots and shoes or other coverings for the
feet or parts of such said articles in vacuum or partial vacuum, or extracting

page_text: the air or gas from or around such parts before being pressed or united together
by means of any suitably adhesive substance.
Having now described the nature and object of my said Invention of
Improvements in the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes or other Coverings
for the Feet, and in what manner the same is to bo and may be performed, I
declare this to be my Specification of the same, and that I do verily believe this
my Specification doth comply in all respects fully and without reservo or
disguise with the proviso contained in the herein-before in part recited Letters
.Patent.
In witness whereof, I have hereunto set my hand and seal, the
Seventeenth day of February, One thousand eight hundred and
fifty-five.
JULIAN BERNARD. (L8.)