AN IMPROVED SEWING-MACHINE, CHIEFLY DESIGNED FOR QUILTING KID AND OTHER GLOVES
Year: 1879

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Carl Necker and Richard Horstmann, both of Berlin,
Prussia, Germany, for the Invention of "AN IMPROVED SEWING-MACHINE,
CHIEFLY DESIGNED FOR QUILTING KID AND OTHER GLOVES."
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Carl Necker and Richard
Horstmann at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 19th April
1879.
CARL NECKER and RICHARD HORSTMANN, both of Berlin, Prussia, Germany.
"AN IMPROVED SEWING-MACHINE, CHIEFLY DESIGNED FOR QUILTING KID AND
OTHER GLOVES."
Our Invention relates to a novel construction and combination of parts of a
sewing-machine by which quilted gloves may be sewn in a manner that the seams
of the fingers inside and outside shew a quilted stitch.
The frame of the said machine is mounted upon a bed-plate, and the working
parts are secured to the said bed-plate and frame. Motion is derived from a strap-
pulley or hand-wheel mounted upon a horizontal-shaft, which gears by bevel-wheels
with another horizontal shaft and a vertical shaft. The top of the vertical shaft
carries eccentrics, by which horizontal arms are worked. One of these horizontal
arms is adjustable in a bearing, and serves as a stitch-guide in connection with the
feeder. The other horizontal arm is adjustable, and serves in connection with a
crank-lever to drive the shuttle-guide. The said shuttle-guide, which carries the
shuttle, has a peculiar 1-shape swinging with its upper end on a bolt, and sliding
with its lower surface in a peculiarly shaped shuttle race forming an arch with a
double curvature.
In this improved construction the needle works from below upwards in an
The
inclined plane, and the shuttle moves to and fro in the race over the work.
needle is held in the needle-bar by a peculiar device, consisting of a lever, one arm
of which presses upon the needle, while the other arm is acted upon by a screw.
The said needle-bar works to-and-fro in a finger-shaped case in an inclined position.
Movement is imparted to the needle-bar by the horizontal shaft in connection with
a disc with a heart-shaped slot and a friction-roller working in the said slot.
In sewing gloves with our improved machine we prefer to, first, sew the gusset
between the thumb and fore-finger, then the thumb, then the gussets between the
fingers, then the two halves of the gloves are united, the long seam down the little
finger coming last.
With this improved machine all seams sewn are very strong and durable, and
neat in appearance outside and inside, and considerable time is saved in the
sewing.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said Carl Necker and Richard Horstmann in the Great Seal Patent Office
on the 18th October 1879.
CARL NECKER and RICHARD HORSTMANN, both of Berlin, Prussia, Germany.
"AN IMPROVED SEWING-MACHINE, CHIEFLY DESIGNED FOR QUILTING KID AND
OTHER GLOVES."
Our Invention relates to a novel construction and combination of parts of a
sewing machine by which quilted gloves may be sewn in a manner that the seams
inside and outside shew a quilted stitch.
In the accompanying Drawings Fig. 1 is a front-elevation of our said improved
sewing-machine; Fig. 2 is a side elevation of the same; Figs. 3, 4, and 5 are detail-
views of sundry parts. A modification of this machine is shewn in Figures 6, 7,
and 8, and another modification in Figures 9, 10, and 11.
A is the bed-plate, upon which the frame B is mounted; the working-parts of
the said machine are partly concealed and secured in the said frame B; G is the
main-shaft worked by a driving-cord or hand-wheel. The driving-cord is worked
by a treadle, and passes upon the pulley Y on the shaft G. A fly-wheel Z is
arranged upon the same shaft. This fly-wheel may be provided with a handle.
The pulley Y is revolving in the direction from the right to the left, Fig. 2, but
arrangements may as well be made for its turning the other way.
Upon the shaft G a bevel-wheel e¹ is mounted gearing with 3 bevel-wheels
eese. By this gearing movement is imparted to the horizontal shaft G¹ and
the vertical shaft H. The shafts G, G¹, turn in bearings provided in the cases
C, D, F, forming part of or secured to the ground-plate A.
To the upper end of the vertical shaft H two bosses J, K, are formed revolving
with the shaft H. Between the said bosses J, K, an excentric L is mounted
working in the plate M upon the same shaft. From the said plate M an arm or stitch-
guide N extends, working in connection with the feeder V to adjust the length of the
stitch. This adjustment is performed as usual by a screw and bearing i. When
the said bearing is adjusted towards the vertical shaft H the stitches will increase
in length; if it is made to slide in the opposite direction the stitches become
shorter.
The boss or top-plate K of the shaft H carries an excentric O, to which an
adjustable arm or driving-bar P is attached. To the said driving-bar P a crank-
bar Qis connected by means of a bolt. The crank bar Q is guided in a slot of the
frame B, and by this device it receives a to-and-fro-motion in a straight line,
worked by the vertical shaft H, the excentric O, and driving-bar P. The crank-
bar Qis secured to the shuttle-guide R forming a cross-piece, the upper end of
which is swinging on a bolt secured to the frame B. The shuttle is held or carried
by the lower horizontal part of the said shuttle-guide R, and the lower surface of
the said shuttle-guide being curved it slides within the race S, forming a segment
and secured to the frame B.
U is a plate or cover secured to the frame B, the said plate serving to carry
sundry parts as the lever a for lifting the feeder V and the spring 1; V is the feeder
pressed upon the work by the spring and lifted, as described, by the lever a.
In our said improved construction of a glove sewing-machine the needle c works
upwards in an inclined plane. The said needle c is secured in the needle-bar by a
peculiar device, shown in Fig. 3, consisting of a lever b, the upper arm of which
keeps hold of the needle when, the lower arm is pressed upon by a small screw d.
The head of the said screw d is square, and can be turned by a usual watch-key
brought in by a hole in the needle-bar-case W. The screw d therefore does not
hold the needle c by direct pressure.
The needle-bar X is working within a case or finger W closed by a cover W¹,
the said finger W having an inclined position, the to and fro motion of the said

page_text: needle bar X within the case or finger W is effected by means of a disc m with a
heart shaped slot, a bolt or friction-roller n upon the disc o mounted upon the
shaft G working in the said slotted disc m, as shewn in Fig. 3.
The thread roller is put upon the pin p, and the thread passes through the
guide, thence over the little disk g, by which it receives its tension; thence it runs
along the needle bar X inside the finger W to the needle. The free end of the
thread is loosely coming forth from the top of the finger W.
A modification of this improved machine is shewn in Figures 6 and 7, front and
side elevations, and the said modification consists in giving to the finger Wa
vertical instead of an oblique position. The needle accordingly will also vertically
work from below upwards, and by piercing the leather the holes of the stitch
become smaller, and the seam improves in durability.
In this construction the main shaft G, by which motion is imparted to the
needle bar X, may be so disposed that the vertical shaft H receives motion from it
directly through a bevel gearing e, while in the former construction two bevel-gears
and a second horizontal shaft G¹ were necessary.
Further. The shuttle race S,, which to correspond with the oblique finger had a
double curvature, as shewn in section x, y, Fig. 5, is now made straight in the
horizontal section, as shewn in Fig. 8.
Instead of the segment-shaped shuttle-race S, and swinging shuttle-guide R, the
said race and guide, in combination with the vertical finger W, may as well receive
a straight horizontal position, as shewn in Figures 9 and 10, front and side eleva-
tion. The shuttle-guide R receives an horizontal to-and-fro motion by means of
the slide-bar O and an eccentric K working in the fork K' in connection with the
vertical shaft H.
The operation of sewing is performed by first placing the borders of the two
pieces of leather or fabrics one upon another by about one millimetre, then they
are laid upon the top of the finger W, and fed by the feeder V, the needle working
from below and the shuttle moving above the work in the race S, as described. The
presser T, secured to the race S, serves besides to guide the work, bearing against
the finger W, and adjusting the breadth of the seam by a small projection,
at the same time causing the work to be advanced in a regular line by the
feeder V.
In sewing gloves with our improved machine we prefer to proceed in the fol-
lowing order: First, the gusset between the thumb and forefinger is sewn, and
then the thumb, beginning at the round fore end down to the middle of the gusset ;
then the other half is united from the top downward. After this the other gussets,
two and two, are united on their broad ends, and sewn into the upper hand, every
one in its place. With the left hand glove this part of the work begins at the
point of the fore finger; with the right-hand glove at the point of the little finger.
This done the fingers are laid one upon another, with their outsides, and the points
of every two corresponding halves are slightly stitched together. Then the glove
is put together, and the two halves are united, the right hand glove beginning to
be sewn at the fore-finger, the left hand one at the little finger, the long seam
coming last.
All seams sewn with this improved machine are very strong and durable, and
neat in appearance outside and inside, and considerable time is saved in sewing.
Having thus fully described the nature of our said Invention, what we claim
is,
First. In a glove-shuttle-sewing-machine the combination of the driving-
mechanism consisting of the horizontal shafts G, G¹, the vertical shaft H, the bevel-
gearings e¹, e, cs, es, and the disks m and o, essentially as and for the purpose set
forth.
Second. In a glove-shuttle-sewing-machine the combination of the vertical shaft
H with the eccentrics L and O, the stitch-guide N, and the driving-bar P, essentially
as and for the purpose set forth.
T
The shuttle suido Rentially on and for the ont forth

page_text: Fourth. The combination of the shuttle-guide R with the crank-bar Q, the
driving-bar P, and excentric O, essentially as and for the purpose set forth.
Fifth. The shuttle-race S in the shape of a segment, essentially as and for the
purpose set forth.
Sixth. The combination of the shuttle-guide R with the shuttle race S, essentially
as and for the purpose set forth.
Seventh. The device of holding the needle c in the needle-bar X, consisting of
the lever b and screw d, essentially as and for the purpose set forth.
Eighth. The combination of the inclined finger-case W and of the needle working
upwards with the shuttle-guide R, essentially as and for the purpose set forth.
Ninth. The construction of a double-quilting sewing machine for sewing gloves,
essentially combined as and for the purpose set forth.
Tenth. The vertical arrangement of the finger W, essentially as and for the
purpose set forth.
Eleventh. The combination of the vertical finger W with the curved shuttle-
race S, as shewn in Figures 1 and 2, essentially as and for the purpose set forth.
Twelfth. The combination of the vertical finger R with the straight horizontal
shuttle race, as shown in Figures 6 and 7, essentially as and for the purpose set
forth.
Thirteenth. The working-mechanism of the horizontal-shuttle-guide R, consisting
of the slide-bar O, excentric K, and fork K¹, in combination with the vertical shatt
H, essentially as and for the purpose set forth.
In witness whereof, we, the said Carl Necker and Richard Horstmann, have
hereunto. set our hands and seals, this Thirteenth day of October, One
thousand eight hundred and seventy nine.