AN IMPROVEMENT IN SEWING MACHINES
Year: 1869

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Johann Adam Haberkorn, Glove Maker, and
Bruno Rudolph, Machine Maker, both of Berlin, in the Kingdom of
Prussia, for the Invention of "AN IMPROVEMENT IN SEWING MACHINES."
Sealed the 2nd October 1869, and dated the 28th April 1869
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Johann Adam Haberkorn
and Bruno Rudolph at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents,
with their Petition, on the 28th April 1869.
We, JOHANN ADAM HABERKORN, Glove Maker, and BRUNO RUDOLPH,
Machine Maker, both of Berlin, in the Kingdom of Prussia, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention for "AN IMPROVEMENT IN SEWING
MACHINES," to be as follows:-
This Invention consists of a sewing machine intended to sew leather
gloves in a more perfect manner than hitherto attained by the aid of a
practical transporting or carrying apparatus joined to the machine in
such a way as to form its principal part..

page_text: In the absence of any better apparatus it has hitherto been necessary
to use for the purpose of transportation a highly imperfect apparatus
of the nature of the former common holdfast, and this Invention is
therefore of a greater importance as meeting long felt requirements.
On the accompanying Sheet of Drawing forming part of this our
Provisional Specification, Fig. 1 represents a top view, Fig. 2 a side
view, and Figs. 3 and 4 details of a sewing machine constructed
according to our Invention. The same letters indicating the same parts
in each of the Figures respectively.
a indicating the main shaft; b, the handle; c, the swinging or
balance wheel; d, e, g, excentrics; f, the thumb ring; f', the thumb;
h, crown wheel; h¹, driving shaft; h¹¹ and ¹¹, pinion and wheel;
i, k, cylinders for transportation; l, m, cylindrical wheels; n, lever for
interrupting the transportation; o, p, levers for alternation; q, r, catchers
for the threads; q³, the spring, r¹, the hook, s, needle bar; t, needle;
u, leading rod; v, leading prism; w, spring of the needle bar; x, x,
conical wheels; 2, the combination between the two cylinders;
A, F, spools; B, G, friction rollers; C, D, E, H, K, parts of the machine
which are firmly connected with the base; M, N, rollers of the upper
part of the cylinders i, k. The mainshaft a is put in motion by means
of the handle b, and the wheel c, either by hand or treadle in the
ordinary manner.
The working of the machine is effected by the excentrics set on
the main shaft a in the following manner:-The leading rod u is
set in a reciprocating motion by the eccentric g, upon which it is
fixed; the former acts then upon the leading prism v, joined to it
with one end, and this again transfers its movement to the needle bar s,
so that the latter is obliged to perform with the needle t applied to it
an alternating horizontal motion. The eccentrics d, e, actuate the two
alternating levers o, p, in such a way that one of them rises whilst the
other descends. On these levers o, p, there are mounted two catchers q, r,
one to each lever. The catcher q bears at its lower end a spring q¹.
The catcher is provided at its lower end with a crooked hook r³, by
the channel of which a thread is led from the upper spool A.
The co-operation of these different parts takes place in the following
manner: The needle t provided with the thread delivered from the

page_text: spool F, is driven forward by the excentric g by means of the leading
rod u, the leading prism, and the needle bar s, thereby piercing the
fabric led between the two cylinders i, k. At the same time the.
spring q' rises and the hook r' turns outwardly. As soon as the needle
has reached its end point the needle bar has left its support which
permitted the thread to move freely. The thread will now be pinched
by the spring w, and the hook r¹ gear into the needle thread to keep it
back. By virtue of the screw in the upper part of the catcher r it
rotates half round, and of course the hook is obliged to turn likewise
half round inwardly, and is thus drawn below the thread of the needle.
The needle retires, the catcher c¹ descends, and the spring q¹ enters
between the hook. r¹ and its thread for keeeping it back. Turning again
outwardly the hook r¹ looses the kept loop of the needle thread; the
needle arrived at its first position draws its thread firmly and combines
it with that of the hook to a stitch outside of the fabric, this second
advancing at the same time for the following stitch. The result is a
handsome exact over seam such as is required for gloves.
The principal advantage of this Invention consists as already said of
the new and peculiar apparatus for transportation, by the application of
which it is possible to sew daily twelve pair of gloves whilst the most
dilligent seamstress has hitherto scarcely been able to finish four pair
daily.
This apparatus consists of two cylinders i, k, meeting at their upper
parts, which execute a continual rotation inwardly by the interlocking
of the toothed wheels l, m, set upon them. The cylinder i, receives
its movement by the conical wheels x, x, these latter receiving their
movement from the thumb ring f, one part of the periphery of which is
cut in so as to produce a thumb. The ring f gears into the crown-
wheel h, in such a way that the same can only advance one tooth at
every rotation of the main shaft, consequently the driving shaft h', and
the toothed wheels h¹¹ and h¹¹¹, are driven at the same speed and so act
on the conical wheels, and thus the leather held between the two
cylinders is by their continuous inward rotation moved on in a very
regular and efficient manner.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Johann Adam Haberkorn and Bruno Rudolph in
the Great Seal Patent Office on the 19th October 1869.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, we, JOHANN
ADAM HABERKORN, Glove Maker, and BRUNO RUDOLPH, Machine Maker,
both of Berlin, in the Kingdom of Prussia, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Twenty-eighth day of April, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-nine, in the thirty-
second year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors,
give and grant unto us, the said Johann Adam Haberkorn and Bruno
Rudolph, Her special licence that we, the said Johann Adam Haberkorn,
and Bruno Rudolph, our executors, administrators, and assigns, or such
others as we, the said Johann Adam Haberkorn and Bruno Rudolph,
time agree
with,
our executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any
and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during
the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use,
exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and
Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "AN
IMPROVEMENT IN SEWING MACHINES," upon the condition (amongst others)
that we, the said Johann Adam Haberkorn, and Bruno Rudolph, our
exccutors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under our, or
one of our, their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly
describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what
manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed
in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and
immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that we, the said Johann Adam Haberkorn and
Bruno Rudolph, do hereby declare the nature of our said Invention,
and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
This Invention consists of a sewing machine intended to sew leather
gloves in a more perfect manner than hitherto attained by the aid of
a practical transporting or carrying apparatus ("Fuhrungs apparat")
joined to the machine in such a way as to form its principal part.

page_text: In the absence of any better apparatus it has hitherto been necessary
to use for the purpose of transportation a highly imperfect apparatus
of the nature of the former common holdfast, and this Invention is
therefore of a greater importance as meeting long-felt requirements.
On the accompanying Sheet of Drawing, forming part of this Speci-
fication, Fig. I. represents a top view, Fig. II. a side view, and
Figs. III, and IV. details of a sewing machine constructed according
to our Invention. The same letters of reference indicate the same parts
in each of the Figures respectively.
a indicates the main shaft; b, the handle; c, the fly wheel; d, e; g,
eccentrics; f, the thumb ring or tappet disc ("daumen-scheibe ");
, the thumb or tappet ("daumen"); h, crown wheel; h', driving
shaft; h and h¹¹¹, pinion and wheel; i, k, cylinders for transportation or
feeding; l, m, cylindrical wheels; n, lever for interrupting the trans-
portation or feeding; o, p, levers for alternation; q, r, catches for the
threads; q', the spring; r', the hook; s, needle bar; t, needle; u,
leading or feeding rod; v, leading prism or feed cylinder; w, spring of
the needle bar; x, x, conical wheels; y, the combination between the
two cylinders. A, F, spools; B, G, friction rollers; C, D, E, H, K.,
parts of the machine which are firmly connected with the base; M, N,
rollers of the upper part of the cylinders i, k. The main shaft a is put
in motion by means of the handle b and the fly wheel c, either by hand
or treadle in the ordinary manner.
The working of the machine is effected by the eccentrics set on the
main shaft a in the following manner-The leading or feed rod u is
set in reciprocating motion by the eccentric g, upon which it is fixed;
the former then acts upon the leading prism or feed cylinder joined
to it by one end, and this again transfers its movement to the needle
bar s, so that the latter is obliged to perform with the needle t applied
to it an alternating horizontal motion. The eccentrics d, e, actuate the
two alternating levers o, p, in such a way that one of them rises whilst
the other descends. On these levers o, p, there are mounted two
catches q, r, one to each lever. The catch a bears at its lower end a
spring q'; the catch r is provided at its lower end with a crooked
hook, through the channel of which a thread is led from the upper
spool A.

page_text: The co-operation of these different parts takes place in the following
manner: The needle t, provided with the thread delivered from the
spool F, is driven forward by the eccentric g by means of the leading
rod u, the leading prism v, and the needle bar s, thereby piercing the
fabric led between the two cylinders i, k. At the same time the spring q¹
rises and the hook r¹ turns outwardly. As soon as the needle has reached
its end point the needle bar has left its support which permitted the
thread to move freely; the thread will now be nipped by the spring w,
and the hook r¹ gear into the needle thread to keep it back. By virtue
of the screw in the upper part of the catch r it rotates half round,
and of course the hook r¹ is obliged to turn likewise half round inwardly,
and is thus drawn below the thread of the needle. The needle retires,
the catch a descends, and, the spring q' enters between the hook r¹ and
its thread to keep it back; turning again outwardly the hook r¹ releases
the kept loop of the needle thread; the needle arrive at its first position
draws its thread firmly, and combines it with that of the hook to a
stitch outside of the fabric; this second advancing serves at the same
time for the following stitch. The result is a handsome regular or
uniform over seam such as is required for gloves.
The principal advantage of this Invention consists, as already stated,
in the new and peculiar apparatus for transportation, feeding, or
carrying, by the application of which it is possible to sew daily 12 pair
of gloves, whilst the most diligent seamstress has hitherto scarcely been
able to finish four pair daily.
The apparatus consists of two cylinders i, k, meeting at their upper
parts, which execute a continual rotation inwardly by the interlocking
of the toothed wheels l, m, set upon them. The cylinder i receives its
movement from the conical wheels x, x, these latter receiving theirs
from the thumb ring or tappet disc f, one part of the periphery of
which is cut so as to produce a tappet. The ring f gears into the crown
wheel h in such a way that the same can only advance one tooth at
every rotation of the main shaft; consequently the driving shaft h¹
and the toothed wheels h" and h¹¹ are driven at the same speed and so
act on the conical wheels. Thus the leather held between the two
cylinders is by their continuous inward rotation advanced to the needle
in a very regular, novel, and efficient manner.
Having now described the nature of our said Invention, and the

page_text: manner in which we carry the same into practical effect, we claim as
the Invention secured to us by the herein-before in part recited Letters
Patent, an improvement in sewing machines for sewing gloves in
hitherto unattainable perfection by applying to the machine an apparatus
for transportation or feeding apparatus ("Fuhrungs-apparat"), as herein
described and shown in the Drawings annexed hereto.
In witness whereof, we, the said Johann Adam Haberkorn and
Bruno Rudolph, have hereunto set our hands and seals, this
Twentieth day of September in the year of our Lord One thousand
eight hundred and sixty-nine.
Witness,
LEOPOLD LOEWE,
JOHANN ADAM HABERKORN (L.S.)
BRUNO RUDOLPH.
(L.S.)
21, Grunstr,
Berlin.