Improvements in and relating to Embroidering and Edging Machines.
Year: 1898

page_text: Date of Application (in United Kingdom), 5th Mar., 1898
Complete Specification Left, 3rd Dec., 1898-Accepted, 28th Jan., 1899
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in and relating to Embroidering and Edging
Machines.
We, EMILE CORNELY and ROBERT CORNELY, trading as E. Cornely et Fils, of
87, Faubourg St. Denis, Paris, France, Manufacturers, do hereby declare the
nature of this invention to be as follows:-
The present invention relates to machines in which the needle effectuates an
oscillating motion combined with its up and down motion. The object of the
present invention is to make this oscillation of the needle variable, in order to
produce edging or embroidering seams of variable width. This new arrange-
ment of mechanism is governed by the crank handle of the machine and can
either be made automatic for the production of edging scallops, or can be made
regulable by hand for the production of embroidering seams of variable width.
In order to more clearly describe this invention, it is shewn in the accompany-
ing drawings in its application to the machine described in the Specification
to Letters Patent No. 10688 of June 23rd 1891 in which the needle effects an
oscillating motion and thus according to the length of the stitches, produces
overseaming, zig-zag or edging seams."
The oscillating motion of the needle bar is obtained in the following way:-
The main shaft R of the machine (Figure 1) is provided with a small cog
wheel which drives a cog wheel Q of double its size. This cog wheel Qis pro-
vided with a cam h which operates the bell crank lever P, the latter lever P
The horizontal arm of the lever P
pivoting or oscillating upon its fulcrum q.
operates slide F which by means of its fork n drives cone I; this latter cone I
works against pin 2 of sliding part C.
When therefore cone I descends, it pushes sliding part C to the left and when
slide is raised by the action of spring k, pin 2 is released from the pressure
of cone I and the sliding part C is then moved to the right by the action of
spring 3.
Needle bar M is suspended at its upper end by means of a ball and socket
joint O, whilst the under end of said needle bar projects through sliding part C,
which thus transmits its oscillating motion to the needle bar.
An eccentric disc or oscillating cam S freely pivots upon its pivot f and the
under edge of said dise S forms an eccentric curve to its fulcrum f. In its

page_text: oscillating motion, lever P strikes against eccentric disc S and according to the
position of this latter the motion of the lever P will be increased or decreased
and therefore according to the eccentric disc $ being pushed to the right or to the
left, the motion of slide F will be increased or decreased and consequently the
oscillating motion of needle bar M will vary accordingly, thus varying the width
of the seam.
It is therefore necessary that whilst the machine is working the operator should
alter the position of the eccentric disc S, in order to vary the width of the seam
according to the work required.
For this purpose we utilize the crank handle stop motion described in the
Specification of Letters Patent No. 212 of January 19th 1876, but changing it in
such a manner that this stop motion whilst operating the eccentric disc S, still
governs the stop motion of the machine as well as the direction of the feed.
This new arrangement is represented in Figure 1 and on a larger scale in
Figures 2, 3, and 4, wherein N is the handle of the stop motion which is secured
upon tube d provided with a circular groove g which slides freely up and down
upon rod p. A lever G is fulcrumed upon pivot s and one of its ends penetrates
into groove g whilst its other end works against the end of the tube E, see
Figures 1, 2 and 4. When the handle N is pushed or pulled downwards, then
lever G pushes tube E upwards; this tube E abuts against the end y of the
lever D and pushes it upwards, whereby the other end 2 of lever D (Figure 1)
descends and draws the (stop motion) rod A downward, thus throwing the
machine into gear.
The mechanism which operates the eccentric disc S consists of lever T which
works upon its pivot 5 which is secured upon the handle N of the stop motion.
The short arm 6 of this lever works against a sliding collar provided with a
groove m. In operation the workman holds the handle N by means of the
thumb, fore-finger and middle-finger, in order to throw the machine into gear
and to control or govern the direction of the feed; at the same time the two
other fingers can press against the end of lever T and push it into the groove
of handle N as represented in Figures 3 and 4. In this case the collar m is
pushed upwards, whereby the end 7 of lever V descends and with the latter
the rod W (Figures 1 and 4) and the end 8 of lever X, whilst the other end 9
of said lever X works against pin 10 of rod Y which at its upper end is provided
with a pin 11. This pin 11 operates lever Z, which latter by means of the rod U
transmits its motion to the lever 13 which operates eccentric disc S and thus
moves this disc the space required in order to regulate the oscillation of lever P
according to the width of seam wished for. When the pressure upon lever T
ceases, then spring 14 (Figure 1) pushes lever 13 to the right and thus the whole
system of levers U, Z, Y, W, V, and T returns back to the positions represented
in Figures 1 and 2.
When edging scallops are to be produced, the arcs of which have to be broad
in the centre and narrow towards the angles, then the motion of the eccentric
dise S can be produced automatically. For this purpose a toothed wheel 16
(Figures 1 and 7) which turns with the feed motion of the machine, is provided
with a crank 15 which operates lever 13 by means of rod 23. In this case the
rod U which drives lever 13 in the above described mechanism is removed. The
turning motion of the crank handle N is transmitted to tooth wheel 17 by
means of wheels 18, 19, 20, 21 and 22 and thus the eccentric disc S is
operated automatically in order to decrease the oscillation of the needle in the
centre of the arcs.
In place of the handle represented in Figures 2, 3 and 4, a handle can be
employed as shewn in Figures 5 and 6. In this case the handle itself is composed
of the levers 35 and 36 which act at the same time as a handle and as levers;
these two levers are secured upon tube 37 which is itself placed upon tube das
above described with reference to Figures 2, 3, and 4.
For the formation of the seam the small presser nipple 25 (Figure 1) through

page_text: which the needle pierces, has to press the cloth as long as the needle is in the
cloth; this nipple 25 is pressed upon the cloth by the action of spring 26 and
is lifted upward by the motion of the needle bar M which is for this purpose
provided with a projection which takes hold of the nipple 25 at the right moment.
The sewing or embroidering silk or thread comes from spool 27 whence it is
passed through guides 28 and 29 (see Figure 1*) then around turning discs 30
through guides 31 and 32, guide 34 and finally through the central table and
the eye of the needle.
Figure 8 represents the same machine in which the stop motion of the machine
is operated by the foot of the operator by means of rod 40 which acts upon
lever D and the stop motion rod A and thus throws the machine in gear as above
described.
The eccentric disc S is thus operated by the crank handle N by means of
levers V, W, X, Y, Z, U, and 13 as above described.
the Applicants,
GEDGE & FEENY,
60, Queen Victoria Street, London, E.C.,
Chartered Patent Agents.
Improvements in and relating to Embroidering and Edging
Machines.
We, EMILE CORNELY and ROBERT CORNELY, trading as E. Cornely et Fils, of
87, Faubourg St. Denis, Paris, France, Manufacturers, do hereby declare the
nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to
be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
The present invention relates to embroidering and edging machines in which
the needle effects an oscillating motion combined with its up and down motion.
The object of the present invention is to make this oscillation of the needle
variable, in order to produce edging or embroidering seams of variable width.
This new arrangement of mechanism is governed by the crank handle of the
machine and can either be made automatic for the production of edging scallops,
or can be made regulable by hand for-the production of embroidering seams
of variable width.
In order to more clearly describe this invention, it is shewn in the accompany-
ing drawings in this application to the machine described in the Specification
to Letters Patent No. 10688 of June 23rd 1891 in which the needle effects an
oscillating motion and thus according to the length of the stitches, produces
overseaming, zig-zag or edging seams.
The oscillating motion of the needle bar is obtained in the following way.
On the accompanying sheets of drawings,
Fig. 1 is a general view in elevation of the machine, provided with
invention.
our
Fig. 1 is a diagrammatical plan of the thread-guiding arrangement.
Figs. 2, 3 and 4 are elevations of the crank handle fitted with the improved
stop motion, and Figs. 2 and 4 are in part section.
Figs. 5 and 6 shew, also in elevation, a modified form of the controlling lever.
Fig. 7 is an enlarged view of the crank connection, when the eccentric S is
controlled automatically.

page_text: Fig. 8 of the drawings filed with our Provisional Specification shews a modified
form of controlling the stop motion.
The main shaft R of the machine (Figure 1) is provided with a small cog
wheel which drives a cog wheel Q of double its size. This cog wheel Q is pro-
vided with a cam which operates the bell crank lever P, the latter lever P
pivoting or oscillating upon its fulcrum q. The horizontal arm of the lever P
operates slide F which by means of its fork n drives cone I; this latter cone I
works against pin 2 of sliding part C.
When therefore cone I descends, it pushes sliding part C to the left and when
slide F is raised by the action of spring k, pin 2 is released from the pressure
of cone I and the sliding part C is then moved to the right by the action of
spring 3.
Needle bar M is suspended at its upper end by means of a ball and socket
joint O, whilst the under end of said needle bar passes through sliding part C
in such manner that the latter transmits its oscillating motion to the needle bar.
An eccentric disc or oscillating cam S freely pivots upon its pivot f and the
under edge of said disc $ forms an eccentric curve to its fulcrum f. In its
oscillating motion, lever P strikes against eccentric disc $ and according to the
position of this latter the motion of the lever P will be increased or decreased
and therefore according to the eccentric disc S being pushed to the right or to the
left, the motion of slide will be increased or decreased and consequently the
oscillating motion of needle bar M will vary accordingly, thus varying the width
of the seam.
It is therefore necessary that whilst the machine is working the operator should
alter the position of the eccentric disc S, in order to vary the width of the seam
according to the work required.
For this purpose we utilize the crank handle stop motion described in the
Specification of Letters Patent No. 212 of January 19th 1876, but changing it in
such a manner that this stop motion whilst operating the eccentric disc S, still
governs the stop motion of the machine as well as the direction of the feed.
This new arrangement is represented in Figure 1 and on a larger scale in
Figures 2, 3, and 4, wherein N is the handle of the stop motion which is secured
upon tube d, see Figure 2, provided with a circular
slides freely
up or down upon rod P. A lever G is
and one of its ends penetrates into
groove
groove
which
fulcrumed
whilst
g
upon pivot s
its other end works against the end of the tube or sleeve E,
see Figures 1, 2 and 4. When the handle N is pushed or pulled downwards,
then lever G pushes tube E upwards; this sleeve E abuts against the end y of
the lever D and pushes it upwards, whereby the other end of lever 1 (Figure 1)
descends and draws the stop motion rod A downwards, thus throwing the
machine into gear.
The mechanism which operates the eccentric disc S consists of lever T which
works upon its pivot 5 which is secured upon the handle N of the stop motion
arrangement. The short arm 6 of this lever works against a sliding collar pro-
vided with a groove m see Figures 3 and 4. In operation the workman holds
the handle N by means of the thumb, fore-finger and middle-finger, in order
to throw the machine into gear and to control or govern the direction of the
feed; at the same time the two other fingers can press against the end of
lever T and push it into the groove of handle N, as represented in Figures 3 and 4.
In this case the collar m is pushed upwards, whereby the end 7 of lever V
descends and with the latter the rod W (Figures 1 and 4) as also the end 8 of
lever X, whilst the other end 9 of said lever X works against pin 10 of rod Y
raising the latter which at its upper end is provided with a pin 11. This pin 11
operates lever Z, which latter by means of the rod U transmits its motion to the
lever 13 which operates eccentric disc S and thus moves this disc the space
required in order to regulate the oscillation of lever P according to the width of
seam wished for. When the pressure upon lever T ceases, then spring 14

page_text: (Figure 1) pushes lever 13 to the right and thus the whole system of levers, U. Z,
Y, X, W, V, and T returns back to the positions represented in Figures 1 and 2.
When edging scallops are to be produced, the arcs of which have to be broad
in the centre and narrow towards the angles, then the motion of the eccentric
disc S can be produced automatically. For this purpose a toothed wheel 16
(Figures 1 and 7) which turns with the feed motion of the machine, is provided
with a crank 15 which operates lever 13 by means of rod 23. In this case the
rod U which drives lever 13 in the above described mechanism is removed. The
turning motion of the crank handle N is transmitted to tooth wheel 17 by
means of wheels 18, 19, 20, 21, and 22 and thus the eccentric disc S is
operated automatically in order to decrease the oscillation of the needle in the
centre of the arcs.
In place of the handle represented in Figures 2, 3 and 4, a handle can be
employed as shewn in Figures 5 and 6. In this case the handle itself is composed
of the levers 35 and 36 which act at the same time as both a handle and con-
trolling lever; these two levers are secured upon tube 37 which is itself placed
upon tube das above described with reference to Figures 2, 3, and 4.
For the formation of the seam the small presser nipple 25 (Figure 1) through
which the needle pierces, has to press the cloth as long as the needle is in the
cloth; this nipple 25 is pressed upon the cloth by the action of spring 26 and
is lifted upward by the motion of the needle bar M which is for this purpose
provided with a projection which takes hold of the nipple 25 at the right moment.
The sewing or embroidering silk or thread comes from spool 27 whence it is
passed through guides 28 and 29 (see Figure 1) then around turning discs 30
through guides 31 and 32, guide 34 and finally through the central table and
the eye of the needle.
Figure 8 represents the same machine in which the stop motion of the machine
is operated by the foot of the operator by means of rod 40 which acts upon
lever D and the stop motion rod A and thus throws the machine in gear as above
described.
The eccentric disc S is thus operated by the crank handle N by means of
levers V, W, X, Y, Z, U, and 13 as above described.
our said
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what
we claim is:
In sewing or embroidering machines which work with an oscillating needle,
a mechanism governed by the crank handle of the machine, by means of which,
whilst the machine is working, the oscillations of the needle can be increased
or decreased either automatically or according to the will of the operator, in order
to produce edging or embroidering seams with variable width.
Dated this 3rd day of December 1898.