IMPROVE- MENTS IN SEWING MACHINES
Year: 1864

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Amos Lawrence Wood, of Boston, but now residing
at Westminster Palace Hotel, Merchant, for the Invention of "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN SEWING MACHINES."-A communication from abroad by David
Wood Green Humphrey, of Chelsea, Massachusetts, United States of
America.
Sealed the 13th October 1864, and dated the 3rd August 1864.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Amos Lawrence Wood
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents. with his Petition, on the
3rd August 1864.
I, AMOS LAWRENCE WOOD, of Boston, but now residing at Westminster
Palace Hotel, Merchant, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention
for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES," to be as follows:-
This Invention relates to certain improvements upon sewing machinery for
button hole or edge finishing or stitching, patented by John Henry Johnson,
14th October 1862, No. 2775, on behalf of the Inventor of the present
improvements.
These improvements consist, first, in adapting to the table usually employed
in sewing machines journals carried by end standards from a foundation
frame, which journals admit of the table and all the parts connected therewith
and secured below it being readily turned up to give access to that portion of
Price 8d1

page_text: the mechanism. In order to retain the table (when required) in its proper
position, one of the end standards is provided with a spring bolt, which enters
a hole in the end of the table and locks it fast.
Secondly, in a novel arrangement of mechanism to hold back the needle
thread in order to draw tight the previously formed loop. The needle thread,
from a spool carried upon the vertical hollow standard, passes through a
fixed guide and through a spring guide, which take up the usual slack of the
thread, thence through a spring stop or finger. by which at certain parts
of the operation the thread is griped and held fast. The stem of this spring
stop or griper passes through the side of the vertical standard or socket formed
thereon, and is operated by a cam on the vertical or cam shaft. The stem is
notched at one side so that when the griper or spring stop is pushed out, the
thread can be readily introduced and is free to be drawn through by the needle,
but when the cam retires from the stem of the spring stop the thread will be
clamped and held fast between its button or flanged head and the side of the
vertical standard by the action of its spring, so that by a suitably shaped cam
the duration of the griping operation when the needle descends through the
cloth and when it descends through the slit of the button hole may differ as will
be required to draw tight the loop which was formed at the previous operation.
In addition to the spring stop or griper for controlling the thread, an adjust-
able rest may be attached to the horizontal arm by the side of the needle bar,
and the thread led over its upper edge before passing through a guide
attached to and moving with the needle bar.
Thirdly, in a novel arrangement of clamping apparatus for holding and
guiding the work, and improved means whereby this clamp may be retained
upon or released from the surface of the table of the machine and guided in
the desired course thereon. The cloth (or other material) in which a button
hole is to be worked is first prepared by cutting a slit through it of the
required length with an eyelet at one end. It is then placed in a clamp
consisting of a top and bottom clamping plate, having roughened surfaces;
both plates are formed with a slot having the general form of a button hole.
but of larger dimensions. The bottom clamping plate is secured to the upper
surface of a base plate. and this base plate has a mortice through it, both ends
of which are circular, one being large enough to pass freely over the flat head
of a button headed or flanged pin that projects upward from the surface of the
table. The straight sides of this mortice are at a less distance apart than the
diameter of the head of the button or projection, and just so as to work freely
on the projection which acts as a guide when the clamp is required to move
in a straight line, the upper surface of the plate being rebated to receive the

page_text: head or flange of the button or projection, whereby the clamp is held down
to the face of the table of the machine except when the enlarged end of the
mortice reaches it. The other rounded end of the mortice is smaller than the
button, but its diameter is such as will allow of the clamp making a lateral
movement when turning to form the eyelet of the intended button hole. The
upper plate or jaw of the clamp is morticed to fit over a part of the base plate,
and is held down at the rear end by a cap plate and screw pressed up to this
cap plate by springs; it can be forced down to clamp the cloth by a cam-
faced hand lever..
It is desirable to spread the slit of the intended button hole at the time it
is clamped, so that the needle in moving down may be free of the edges of the
cloth. To effect this springs are secured one on each side of the upper and
lower jaw; these four springs are curved transversely, and their edges by
griping the cloth before it is held by the clamp faces will stretch it and open
the slit so that the needle will work in it as desired. Near the rear end of the
clamp a round pin projects therefrom below the base plate and through a slot
in the table of the machine. Through this pin the required motions are
imparted to the clamp. The pin is mounted in a standard on the clamp (but
capable of sliding therein), and is held down by the tension of a helical spring.
so that it can be lifted out of the slot in the table of the machine when
desired, and the clamp removed by drawing it back until the enlarged end of
the mortice reaches the button-headed pin on the table, over which it can
then be lifted. The table of the machine is provided with a spring, which
bears against the edge of the base plate of the clamp, and presses one side of
the mortice against the button or projection before mentioned, so that when
the rounded end of the mortice reaches the button the clamp will be moved
laterally, thereby making the line of seam in the form of an eyelet while the
clamp is turning. A guiding slot in the table of the machine for guiding the
clamp around its centre of motion under the needle is made in the form of
two straight lines connected by about a half circle. The button or flange-
headed pin which holds the clamp down to the table of the machine, and
through which the needle passes, is not concentric with the circular part of
this slot in the table, but as much excentric and towards the middle of the
circular part of the slot as is equal to the diameter of the eyelet of the
intended button hole. Through this slot projects the clamp pin before men-
tioned as communicating motion to the clamp. The outer edge of the
circular part of the slot bearing against this pin will, together with the spring
on the table of the machine, keep the edge of the rounded part of the mortice
against the button or projection; the clamp will consequently have a slight

page_text: lateral motion in working the eyelet of the button hole. The clamp pin
projects down into a cam groove of a feeding ring, and moves slightly towards
and from the centre of the feeding ring, which, through the pin gives the
To permit of this lateral motion a recess or
Lurning motion to the clamp.
enlargement is formed in that part of the cam groove of the feeding wheel
which is nearest to the centre of motion of the wheel. For working button
holes without an eyelet the slot in the table may be concentric with the
hollow flanged pin, or the circular part of the slot may be made gradually as
much wider from each end to the middle as the diameter of an eyelet, when,
with the assistance of the spring secured to the table of the machine, the edge
of the mortice in the clamp will be kept against the stem of the flanged pin
in turning. All kinds of button holes may be made.
Fourthly, of an arrangement of mechanism whereby the length of button
holes will be determined automatically. The clamp is moved forward by the
handle of the feed lever so as to bring that part of the cloth under the needle
where it is desired to commence the button hole, and in order to finish the
other side of the button hole just at the same distance from the eyelet, a
spring stop lever is jointed to the under side of the table, and one arm projects
above the table of the machine so as to be pushed outward by the clamp as it
reaches the end of its motion. The lower arm of this lever when thus
vibrated strikes against the feed lever, and thereby stops the feed motion until
the clamp is withdrawn. The part of the clamp which strikes the stop lever
may be made adjustable to any desired length of button hole. And the
more readily to adjust the position of the clamp in the table of the machine
for commencing a button hole a fixed gauge is provided to determine the
point of starting.
Fifthly, in the application to sewing machines of a turning carrier mounted
on a curved arm, the lower end of which turns in a suitable step under the
table and centrally under the needle, so that the heavy portions of garment or
other bulky articles may rest on and be supported by such carrier.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Amos Lawrence Wood in the Great Seal Patent Office
on the 3rd February 1865.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, AMOS
LAWRENCE WOOD, of Boston, but now residing at Westminster Palace Hotel,
Merchant, send greeting.

page_text: WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Third day of August, in the year of our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and sixty-four, in the twenty-eighth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me,
the said Amos Lawrence Wood, Her special license that I, the said
Amos Lawrence Wood, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or
such others as I, the said Amos Lawrence Wood, my executors, adminis-
trators, and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time
to time and all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should
and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom
of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an
Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES," being a communication
to him from abroad by David Wood Green Humphrey, of Chelsea, Massa-
chusetts, United States of America, upon the condition (amongst others) that
1, the said Amos Lawrence Wood, by an instrument in writing under my
hand and seal, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the
said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause
the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar
months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Amos Lawrence Wood, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to
be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement, reference being had to the Drawings hereunto annexed,
and to the letters and figures marked thereon (that is to say):
This Invention relates to certain improvements in machinery for working
button holes in an efficient and expeditious manner.
In Sheet I. of the accompanying Drawings, Fig. 1 shews in longitudinal
vertical section the machinery taken in the plane of the needle; Fig. 2,
Sheet II., is a horizontal section taken at the line A, u, of Fig. 1; Fig. 2" is
another horizontal section taken at the line B, b, of Fig. 1, just below the
table; and Fig. 3, Sheet III., is a plan view of the machine inverted to
exhibit the mechanism below the table.. The details of the machine are given
in other views, which will be herein-after referred to. The same letters
indicate like parts in all the Figures.
A represents the foundation frame, consisting of a bed plate and two end
standards. Between the standards the table B, such as is usually employed
in sewing machines, is mounted, it being carried at its ends by journals a.
The mechanism is all attached to this table B, and much of it to the under
side thereof, so that by reason of its being mounted in journal bearings on the

page_text: standards of the bottom frame it can be readily turned up to give ready access
to that portion of the mechanism which is attached to its under side. One of
the end standards of the lower frame is provided with a spring bolt b. Fig. 3.
to hold the table in a horizontal position. On the top of the table B is
secured a hollow standard c, from which projects a horizontal arm d, and in
the standard c the driving shaft e (to which the motive power is to be applied
in any appropriate manner) has its bearing. By bevil gear wheels f, f, motion
is communicated from the driving shaft e to a vertical shaft within the
standard c. This shaft carries a cam à for the purpose to be presently
described, and by other bevil gears i, j, it communicates motion to a hori-
zontal shaft mounted in the arm d, and termed the needle shaft, as its office
is to give the usual up-and-down motion to the needle I by means of a crank
pin m projecting from the face of a wheel n on its front end. This crank pin
travels in its revolution in a cam groove o in the face of a plate on the needle
bar p. The form of the cam groove o is represented in Fig. 4, Sheet IV.
The length of the crank pin and the depth of the groove should be such as
to admit of a lateral motion, which is to be given to the needle bar p and its
needle. The needle bar p, instead of being adapted to work in slides in the
forward end of the arm d, as is usual in some sewing machines, is fitted to
slide vertically in the front end of what may be termed the needle bar
carrier q, which is fitted to slide longitudinally in the arm d, its rear end
extending to the inside of the standard c, where it is provided with a roller or
pin fitted to work in a cam groove s in the upper face of the cam i before
mentioned, on the vertical shaft h. The form of this cam groove s is repre-
sented in the section Fig. 5. The object of giving the lateral motion to the
needle by the mechanism described is that during one motion down and up
to form one stitch it shall pass through the slit of the button hole, or by the
edge thereof, and at the next operation through the cloth by the side of the
button hole or edge, and so alternately throughout the operation, and there-
fore the needle should be moved up and down twice to one back and forward
motion of the needle bar carrier, which can be effected by so proportioning
the bevil gear wheels (,, that the needle shaft
shall make two revolutions
to one of the vertical shaft h, with a cam groove of the form represented at
Fig. 5. The needle thread from a spool u passes through a guide at the
side of the standard c, then through a loop in a spring (shewn in Fig. 6,
Sheet III., which Figure is a side elevation of the standard c). The tension
of this spring takes up the usual slack of the thread, and from this loop the
thread passes through a griping mechanism, by which, at certain parts of
the operation, it is griped and held fast. This griping mechanism is repre-

page_text: sented in Fig. 5, Sheet IV., by a horizontal section taken at the line C, c. of
Fig. 6. The gripper has a stem, which is fitted to slide in a hole in a
piece y attached to the standard c, and the inner end of this gripper is pressed
against the periphery of the cai i by a spring z attached to the inside of the
standard c. The stem is notched at one side, so that when the gripper is
pushed out the thread can be readily introduced, and when between the inner
surface of the gripper and the outer surface of the piece y, by the tension
of the spring the thread is griped between the two, and will not be drawn
through by the operation of the machine, but when the gripper r is forced
out by the cam i, then the thread will be free to be drawn by the needle. The
form of the cam i is fully represented in Fig. 5. The sections of its periphery
from 1 to 2 and from 3 to 4 are of such form that they do not act on the stem
of the gripper, and the sections from 2 to 3 and from 4 to 1 are of such
form that they act on the stem to force the gripper out to liberate the thread.
When the needle is working in the slit of the button hole the needle thread
is griped after the eye of the needle has passed below the cloth, and it
is liberated as soon as the loop of the thread is taken by the mechanism below,
which takes place, as will be seen hereafter, during the upward motion of the
needle. And when the needle passes through the cloth by the side of the
button hole, the thread is griped as the eye of the needle reaches the surface
of the cloth, and it is released at the same part of the upward stroke of the
needle, as in the previous operation. The reason for this slight difference in
the periods of action of the gripper on the thread will become apparent when
the whole operation of forming the stitch shall have been described.
In addition to the gripper z. above described, for controlling the thread.
there is an adjustable rest a¹ (see Figure 4) attached to the arm d by the side
of the needle bar, over the upper edge of which rest the thread passes before
passing through a guide b attached to and moving with the needle bar. The
upper edge of the rest a' is rounded, so as not to cut the thread as it passes
over it, and it is made of two parts connected by a screw passing through an
clongated slot, so that the upper edge, over which the thread passes, can be
elevated or depressed for adjustment, its average position being about the
middle of the range of motion of the thread guide b', which moves with the
needle bar, so that as the guide in its descent passes by the rest a', the
thread will be held back by it, and the eye of the needle in moving down
below the cloth must draw the thread from the loop formed during the
previous downward motion of the needle, and thus draw the previous stitch
tight. So soon as the needle has descended through the cloth by the side of
the button hole, and begins the rise forming the thread between its eye and

page_text: the cloth into a loop an instrument termed the loop carrier, and represented
at c¹ (Figures 1, 2, and 3) enters between the needle and its thread, spreads
and carries it in the form of a loop across the vertical plane of the button
hole, and there holds it until the needle rises and descends in the slit of the
button hole, and through the said loop so previously formed and held. The
loop carrier c¹ is formed near one end of a plate d', and facing another instru-
ment c formed in the same plate, and termed the loop opener, but which
operates on the reverse motion of the loop carrier c', and on the loop of the
needle thread, which is formed after the needle has passed through its own
loop held by the loop carrier. This plate d' is attached to the bent up end
of the rod f, the other end of which is formed with a slot g' to embrace and
slide on the vertical shaft below the table. The slotted end of the rod fl
is provided with a roller ¹. which works in a cam groove ¹ in the face of
a wheel on the shaft h.
The cam groove is represented in Fig. 7,
Sheet IV., and is of such a form as to slide the plate back and
forth at the periods required. But for the purpose of spreading the
loop of the needle thread that the needle may enter at the next descent
a slot or mortice k¹, Fig. 3, is formed in the sliding plate d', which slot.
is straight for some distance and then diagonal. and fitted to receive a
guide pin, which projects upwards from a plate d' attached to the under
side of the table B. the loop carrier will therefore have a movement the
reverse of the form of the said slot. The cam is formed so as to move the
loop carrier past the needle to take the loop, then to hold it still as the needle
rises, and then to move it diagonally to the position under the slit of the button
hole where the needle is next to descend, thereby opening the loop and placing
it so that the needle shall enter it and carry its thread through it at the next
operation. But during the period of rest of the loop carrier just described
another operation is performed. If the motions of the loop carrier to take
the loop from the needle and spread it so as to permit the needle to enter it at
its next descent were completed, the 'loop would. be stretched obliquely from
the under face of the table on which the cloth rests, and as the thread is
double, and the two parts close to each other at the under side of the table, the
point of the needle would. be liable to miss the loop or puncture the thread,
and thus spoil a stitch. To prevent this that part of the loop which is close
to the under side of the table is held back before the loop carrier makes its
second movement to completely open the loop. This operation is performed
by a finger m (Fig. 2) formed on the edge of a plate n' shewn detached at
Fig. 8, Sheet. IV. This plate is secured to the under face of the table B by
a screw o¹, on which it turns as a fulcrum, and it is turned on its fulcrum

page_text: sufficiently to bring the finger m³ on the left hand side of the loop, and then
the loop carrier completes its operation, and thereby stretches the loop under
the said finger m' to insure a sufficient opening of the loop for the entrance of
the needle. The mechanism for operating this finger will be described here-
after. As the needle descends through the loop formed and held as above
described the loop carrier is drawn back to liberate the loop which it held,
that the continued descent of the needle may draw it tight around itself, which
it must do, as the thread cannot be supplied from the spool, it being held back
by the gripper and the rest a' before described. And so soon as the needle
begins to rise from its second descent the loop opener e', which is on the same
plate with and opposite to the loop carrier c', is moved towards the needle by
the back movement of the plate d', and enters between the needle and its
thread below the previously formed loop and opens a second loop. Whilst this
second loop is kept open the needle rises and moves back laterally to its
original position, and at the same time an interlacing needle p' enters the
second loop of the needle thread and carries with it an interlacing thread.
This needle p' is an eye pointed needle, which carries a thread from a spool r',
which passes through the guide s¹, thence through the eye of the said needle.
This needle is on the end of a bar t', the rear end of which is slotted to embrace
and slide on the vertical shaft h, and it is provided with a roller or pin u¹
fitted to work in a cam groove v' in the face of a cam wheel ' on the shaft h.
This cam groove is represented at Fig. 9, Sheet IV. The bar a little in
the rear of the needle p' is connected with the under side of the table B by a
short joint link x', which gives to the point of the needle as it is moved back
and forth by the cam groove v¹, a curvilinear motion around the needle to
carry its thread into the second loop of the main thread while it is held open
by the loop opener e¹ before described. And while the needle p' is in this
position it remains at rest sufficiently long to enable a hook y¹, Figures 2ª
und 3, to take the loop of its thread, and so soon as this has taken place the
needle p returns to 'its original position, leaving its loop in the second loop of
the main needle thread and under the control of the hook '. The needle
then rises and the hook y' moves back to open the loop of the interlacing
thread, that the needle in its third descent may pass through it, by which
operation it tightens the second loop of its own thread around the first loop
of the interlacing thread. The series of operations before described are
then repeated, the loop carrier again taking the thread of the needle to
form a loop as in the first operation described, but below the loop of the
interlacing thread, which was not the case at the first operation.
The motions of the hook y¹ above described are given in the following

page_text: manner: It is secured on the end of a bar z', the opposite end of which is
slotted to embrace and slide on the vertical shaft h, and it is provided with a
roller or pin a, Fig. 1, fitted to run in a cam groove b² in the face of a cam
wheel on the shaft h. This cam groove is represented at Fig. 10, Sheet. IV.
A curvilinear motion is given to the hook y' in the same manner as to the
interlacing needle p¹ by a joint link d, Fig. 3. the curve being reversed as
the link is reversed. A spring e" is interposed between the two bars t' and '
to make the motions of the interlacing needle and hook steady without the
necessity for making the joints too close and binding. On the upper side of
the bar z of the hook y¹ there is a cross slot (see Fig. 2). which receives
a pin on the lower face of the plate n of the finger m' before described,
and as this cam z¹ moves back and forth to operate the needle p', it imparts
the required vibratory motion to the finger m¹.
The cloth (or other material) in which a button hole is to be worked is
first prepared by cutting a slit through it with a suitable tool of the usual
construction of the required length for the intended button hole, and with an
eyelet at the end where the rounded part of the button hole is to be formed.
The cloth so prepared is properly placed in a clamp D, Figures 1 and 2, and
between the top and bottom clamping plates and P. These clamping
surfaces are roughened in any suitable manner to prevent the cloth from slip-
ping between them.
The two clamping plates are formed each with a slot of the general
form of a button hole, but larger. The bottom clamping plate is secured
to the upper surface of the base plate D, and this base plate has a mortice
through it of the form represented at k, Fig. 11 (Sheet IV.), which repre-
sents a bottom view of the said plate. Both ends of this mortice are circular,
as at and m2, the end being the larger and of such size as to pass
freely over the flat head of a button n², Fig. 12, Sheet III., that projects
upward from the surface of the table B, and the straight sides of this mortice
are at a less distance apart than the diameter of the head of the button, and
just so as to work freely on the shank of the said button, which acts as a
guide when the clamp is required to move in a straight line, the upper surface
of the plate being rebated for the head of the button, so that the clamp is
held down to the face of the table B by the head of the button, except when
the enlarged end of the mortice reaches it. The other rounded end m² of
the mortice is smaller than the button, but its diameter is as much greater
than the shank of the button, and the space between the straight part of the
mortice as is equal to the diameter of the eyelet of the intended button hole.
On the table there is a spring o² (see Fig. 2), which bears against the edge

page_text: of the base plate of the clamp to press one side of the mortice against the
shank of the button n, so that when the rounded end m³ of the mortice
eaches the button n² and begins to turn, the spring moves the clamp laterally,
keeping the edge of the rounded and enlarged part of the mortice m² against
the shank of the button, thereby making the line of seam in the form of an
eyelet while the clamp is turning.
From the foregoing it will be seen that by making the straight part of the
mortice wider than the diameter of the shank of the button, any desired
width of opening can be given to the slit or straight part of a button hole, and
that by varying the size of the rounded end m³ of the mortice any desired size
of eyelet can be given.
The upper jaw 2 of the clamp is morticed at of to fit over a part of the
base, and is held down at the rear end by a cap plate p2 and screw, and
it is pressed up against the rear end of this cap plate by the tension of
springs 2, Fig. 11, which tend consequently to throw up its forward end
to unclamp the cloth; and it is forced down against the tension of such springs
to clamp the cloth by a cam-faced hand lever, which will hold it in any
desired position.
It is desirable to spread the slit of the intended button hole at the time it
is clamped, so that the needle shall not pierce the edges of the cloth in that
part of its operations in which it forms the edging. To effect this stretching
of the slit two springs s³, s, are secured one on each side of the upper jaw h³,
and two corresponding ones t, t, on the lower jaw (see Fig. 1). These four
springs are curved transversely, and their edges gripe the cloth before the
clamp faces come into action. As therefore the clamps approach each other
the springs will be flattened, and by reason of having previously griped
the cloth, they will stretch it as they are flattened, and thereby open the slit,
so that the needle will work in it without piercing the edges of the cloth.
Near the rear end of the clamp D there is a round pin w, which projects
below its lower surface, and which fits in a slot 3 in the table B. It is by
acting on this pin that the required motions are imparted to the clamp for
spacing the stitches, and for giving the required form to the button hole. And
as the head of the button n holds the clamp down to the surface of the table
B without the necessity of using pressers or other means, such as have here-
tofore been employed in sewing machines, and it frequently becomes necessary
to remove the clamp from the table of the machine before the operation is
complete the pin u is made to slide in a standard 2 of the clamp, and is
held down by the tension of a helical spring (not necessary to be shewn in the

page_text: Drawings), so that it can be lifted out of the slot of the table, and then the
clamp can be removed by drawing it back until the enlarged end of the
slot reaches the button n².
The slot in the table B is of the form represented at Fig. 12, Sheet III.,
with two straight parts connected by about a half circle.
When the pin 2 is in either of the straight parts of this slot, the clamp D
can only move in a straight line, but when it reaches the semicircular part of
the said slot then the clamp can turn until the pin reaches the other straight
part.
The button n is not concentric with the circular part of the slot ², but as
much excentric and towards the middle of the circular part of the slot as is
equal to the diameter of the eyelet of the intended button hole, so that the
outer edge of the circular part of the slot bearing against the pin u will.
together with the spring o, keep the edge of the rounded pari m² of the
mortice against the stem of the button.
For working button holes without an eyelet the slot can be concentric
with the button, but if desired the said slot can be made concentric for all
kinds of button holes, if the circular part of the slot be made gradually as
much wider from each end to the middle as the diameter of an eyelet. in
which case the spring of alone will control the clamp and keep the edge of the
mortice against the stem of the button in turning.
That part of the table marked B¹ which has the button n2, and in which
the slot is made. is a thin plate separate from and secured to the upper
surface of the table B. and the button n is the surface on which the stitching
is performed, and hence it must be pierced with the requisite holes for the
passage of the needle and thread, and the main table B is cut out below the
central portion of the plate B¹, that the stitching mechanism below may operate
in close proximity to the under surface of the plate B¹.
A flat ring (represented in Fig. 2) is fitted to turn in a recess in the
upper surface of the table B, and just under the plate B¹. The outer peri-
phery of this ring, which may be termed the feeding ring, is formed with
ratchet. teeth, by which it is turned as herein-after described. two (more or
less) spring catches being employed to prevent it from turning except in
the direction of the arrow. In the face of this ring there is a groove in
the form of a heart, and the cylindrical pin of the clamp D extends through
the slot of the plate B' into this groove. The ring and clamp being in the
relative positions represented in the Drawings (see Fig. 2). with the pin u
in the groovey, and near the point of the heart if the ring be turned in the

page_text: direction of the arrow the groove 2 will act on the pin 2, and cause it and
the clamp with it to travel along the straight part of the slot from 1 to 2.
and when that part of the heart-shaped groove which is nearest the centre
reaches the pin 2, that pin will have reached the beginning of the semi-
circular part of the slot 2. At this time the pin comes in contact with a
stop z, which stands partly across the groove, and by which it is stopped,
so that by the continued rotation of the ring the pin 2 will be caused to travel
along the semicircular part of the slot until it reaches the other straight
part at 3, having thereby turned the clamp D half a revolution. The result of
the motions of the clamp above described is that the part of the cloth in which
the intended button hole is to be worked has travelled under the needle / from
the pointed end of the button hole in a straight line to the eyelet. then around
the eyelet and back in a straight line to the pointed end, so that if the needle and
other parts had been in operation the entire button hole would have been worked.
although the clamp was turned only half way around. The stop 2 is on a plate
fitted to slide radially in a recess in the under face of the feeding ring, and it is
held in this position partly across the groove by the edge of its plate bearing
against the outer edge of a rim 63 of the table b within the feeding ring, but
this ring b is cut out at that part of its circumference which corresponds with
the position of the stop z at the time the clamp approaches the end of its
turning motion, so that the pin acting on the bevilled or rounded side of
the stop will force it out of the groove in order that the pin u² may
enter the other part of the groove . by which it will be caused to travel along
the other straight part of the slot from 3 to 4. The recess in the periphery
of the rim (represented by dotted lines in Fig. 2") is bevilled on the oppo-
site side so as to push back the stop z to its original position after the pin
has passed it. As the circular part of the slot 3 is excentric to the button nº
and to the feeding ring for the purpose of pushing the clamp laterally in
working the eyelet of the button hole, the pin of the clamp will have a
slight motion towards and from the centre of the feeding ring while the clamp
is being turned, and to make allowance for this a recess or enlargement a is
formed in that part of the groove y which is nearest the centre of the feeding
ring. The feeding ring is turned to give the feeding motion to the clamp D
for spacing the stitches by a spring pawl c³ (see Fig. 3), which acts on the
ratchet teeth of the said ring. The pawl c works in a mortice in the table b.
and is connected with a lever d below the table B. It vibrates on a fulcrum
pin at e, and is provided with a face that bears against the periphery of a
cam g on the shaft h. The form of this cam is best shewn at Fig. 9, Sheet IV.

page_text: As the cam is on the shaft h, which makes but one revolution to two of
the needle shaft, there will be but one feed motion to every two stitching
motions of the needle 1, one through the cloth, and one in the slit of the
button hole. A spring bears the lever against its cam. A set screw
gauges the range of back motion of the lever. so that by turning this screw
the feeding motion can be readily adjusted to any desired spacing of the
stitches. The feed lever d extends to the outside of the frame, where it has
the form of a handle for the convenience of operating the feed by hand
whenever required. The feeding mechanism so far as described is for opc-
rating the feed moiion along the straight parts of a button hole, but while
the clamp is being turned to form the eyelet of the button hole, the range of
motion of the pawl is required to be considerably greater, and for this pur-
pose an additional mechanism is brought into action at the time the pin of
the clamp reaches the curved part of the slot r. it being thrown out of action
when the pin passes from the curved into the other straight part of the slot »>².
Under the table B a lever is mounted on a fulcrum pin so as to vibrate
in a vertical plane. One end of this lever carries a pin m³, which works in a hole
in the table B, and is capable of being forced up by a spring above the upper
surface of the table, and into a concentric groove o³ in the under face of the
feeding ring . The form and extent of this groove is represented at Fig. 13,
Sheet IV.. while the pin m³ is in the groove of the feeding motion above
described is in action, but when by the rotation of the feeding ring the pin of
the clamp reaches the curved part of the slot of the plate B', the end of the
groove o, the face of which is bevilled for the purpose, reaches the pin m³,
forces it down, and thereby depresses that arm of its lever 13. To the other
arm of the said lever
will permit a play in
arm p carries a pin
is connected an extra arm p³ by a hinged joint q³. which
a horizontal but not in a vertical plane. This extra
which passes through a hole in that arm of the feed
lever before described, which is acted upon by the cam g³, and when the
pin m is depressed by the feeding ring, the pin of the extra arm of the
lever is projected above the top of the feed lever, and within the range of
motion of a double cam 3. s. on the shaft h. the peripheries of which (repre-
sented at Figures 3 and 9) will alternately act on the pin to operate the feed
lever, thereby suspending the action of the cam g". In this way the feeding
motions are given to each revolution of the shaft h, and any desired range of
feed motion may be given to turn the clamp. But so soon as the pin of the
clamp reaches the other straight part of the slot in the plate B¹ the com-
mencement of the groove o of the feed ring reaches the pin m³, permits it to

page_text: rise, and the pin is withdrawn from the range of the cams s, which permits
the feeding motion to be resumed by the cam g' for the other straight part of
the button hole.
To avoid any possible conflict of the parts in making the change, the extra
arm which carries the pin is made of a spring, which will readily yield
if the pin in rising should come against the face of either of the cams s.,
but so soon as the cam shall have passed, the pin will then be forced up to
the required position to be acted upon by the periphery of the cams at the
next revolution. As it is important, however, that the pin should be drawn
down out of action at the required time, and it is attached to a spring, such
spring might yield to any binding of the pin. To prevent this, the spring
arm p is prevented from yielding in the opposite direction by a brace f.
Button holes of various lengths are required to be made, and that is
determined by feeding the clamp forward by the handle of the feed lever by
hand, so as to bring the desired part of the cloth under the needle before
commencing the stitching operation.
But as it is desirable to finish the other side of the button hole just at the
same distance from the eyelet that the first side was commenced, and to stop
the feeding automatically to insure accuracy, there is a spring stop lever u³,
one arm of which projects above the table B', so as to be pushed outward
against the tension of its spring by the clamp as it reaches the end of its
motion. The lower arm of this lever when thus vibrated strikes against the
feed lever d', and thereby stops the feed motion until the clamp is withdrawn.
The part of the clamp which thus strikes the stop lever is the outer end of
the plate p before described, which holds down and forms the fulcrum of the
upper jaw of the clamp, and as it is adjustable by the fastening screw and slot,
its tail end can be adjusted to any desired length of button hole. On the
opposite side of the table to the stop lever there is a fixed gauge " to
determine the point of starting. After the cloth has been fastened in the
clamp, and the clamp put over the button, it is drawn back until the tail
end of the plate p strikes the guage . The feed lever is then operated by
hand to turn the feed ring to until the required part of its groove reaches the
pin 2 of the clamp, when it. is forced into the said groove by the tension of
its spring; the machine is then ready for operation.
For making button holes is heavy garments and other bulky articles there
is a turning carrier ", mounted on a curved arm, the lower end of which
turns in a suitable step under the table, and centrally under the needle I, so
that the heavy portions of such garment or other article may rest on and be

page_text: Supported by such carrier. In this way the whole can travel around to follow
the turning of the clamp.
Instead of the two sets of springs on the clamp for spreading the cloth and
opening the slit of the button hole, it will be obvious that the same result in
kind can be accomplished by using one set only with a smooth resisting
surface on the opposite side for the cloth to slide on, but the use of two sets
will be found to be preferable.
Having now set forth the nature of the Invention of "Improvements in
Sewing Machines," as communicated to me by my foreign correspondent, and
explained the manner of carrying the same into effect, I wish it to be under-
stood that under the above in part recited Letters Patent I claim,
First, the mode of clamping and holding back the needle thread, that the
needle may draw the loop tight which was formed at the previous operation in
combination with the double-acting cam, which makes the duration of the
griping operation different when the needle descends through the cloth, from
whence it descends in the slit or by the edge of the button hole, substantially
as and for the purpose specified.
Second, holding the clamp down to the face of the table by a button or the
equivalent therefor, which at the same time acts as a guide for the motions of
the clamp, substantially as described.
Third, making the curved part of the slot in the table in which the pin of
the clamp works excentric to the button, which acts as a guide to the motions
of the clamp, substantially as described to admit of the required lateral motion
to work the eyelets in button holes as described.
Fourth, making the pin of the clamp by which the required motions are
communicated to the clamp so that it can slide up and down therein in
combination with the button that holds the clamp down to the table, sub-
stantially as described, so that the clamp can be removed from the table by
drawing the pin up out of the groove in the feeding ring, and out of the slot
in the table, as described.
Fifth, the springs for spreading the cloth in combination with the clamp,
substantially as described.
Sixth, in combination with the feeding
lever for stopping the feed motion when
described.
mechanism and clamp the stop
the button hole is finished, as
Seventh, connecting the machine with a base frame by journals as described,
so that the machine can be readily turned up to give access to the machinery
at the under side of the table.

page_text: Eighth, I claim, in combination with the clamp which controls and moves
the cloth during the stitching operation, the revolving carrier for sustaining
heavy articles while being turned by the clamp, as described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Amos Lawrence Wood, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, the First day of September, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-four.
AMOS. L. WOOD. (L.S.)