Improvements in Looms for Manufacturing a Curved Shaped Combined Waist Band and Skirt Binding.
Year: 1889

page_text: Date of Application, 17th May, 1889-Accepted, 6th July, 1889
Improvements in Looms for Manufacturing a Curved Shaped
Combined Waist Band and Skirt Binding.
We CHARLES JONES of the Glebe House Fazeley in the County of Stafford
Mill Manager and RICHARD TOLSON of Laurel House Fazeley aforesaid Smallware
Manufacturer do hereby declare the nature of our invention for IMPROVEMENTS IN
LOOMS FOR MANUFACTURING A CURVED SHAPED COMBINED WAISTBAND AND SKIRT
BINDING and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described
and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
It relates to improved mechanism for producing a curved shaped waistband and
skirt binding combined together in the weaving. This combined waist band and
binding consists of a single or solid web for about half its width forming the
waistband and a double or open edge for the other half for admitting the upper
edge of the material of the skirt and forming a binding for it.
Such a combined waistband and binding in a straight length has been, we are
aware, manufactured and used for some years, but the special result to be obtained
by our invention is that the waistband instead of being woven in a straight length is
curved to the shape of an arc of a circle the longer and fuller outside curve being
composed of the double or open edges.
The advantage of this curved band lies in the fact that the skirt is supported and
bound by the band while the latter adjusts itself to the natural curvature of the waist
and hips without being cut or seamed.
Our improvements for producing this result consist essentially of a differential let-
off motion for the warp, two detached conical rollers for guiding and stretching the
warp threads, and a take-up motion consisting of two conical rollers working together
under pressure through which the web passes.
We employ two or more warps or divisions of a warp warped upon and let off from
two or more parallel beams or bobbins and by more heavily weighting the beam or bobbin
supplying the warp towards the selvedge forming the inner curve, relatively to the
weighting of the beam or bobbin supplying the warp towards the double edges
forming the outer curve, and graduating the weighting of the intervening beams or
bobbins (if any) we obtain a series of warp threads of different lengths and tensions.
The longest threads under least tension form the outer double edges of the curve
and the shortest threads under greatest tension form the inner single edge to the
curved web.
The take-up rollers are coned to the proper angle for producing the web of the
required curve and the series of warp threads are thus drawn from the beams or bobbins
of the requisite lengths.
It is evident however that though the series of warp threads vary in length yet
the threads composing each separate series do not vary among themselves indi-
vidually but are each of the same length. In order that all the threads in the
warp may be exactly graduated in length to produce a perfect curved band without
pucker or defect, the web is passed under a conical guide roller and then over a
similar conical roller fixed so that its axis of revolution is not parallel with that
of the take-up roller next following. Its axis makes an angle with the axes of the let
off beams or bobbins the larger diameter of the roller being placed outwards from the
shuttle while the guide roller and the first take up roller, are placed with their
axes parallel to the axes of the let off beans or bobbins. The effect of this
arrangement is that the web and consequently the warp threads are stretched to a
greater degree than necessary for forming the required curvature but they afterwards
recover to a certain extent after passing off the stretching roller on to the take up

page_text: .
roller. If however the stretching roller be placed at the correct angle the warp
threads which were unduly short receive a permanent stretching to the proper
extent. It will be seen by the foregoing description of the process that the necessary
graduated length of the warp threads is obtained partly by a differential let-off and
partly by a differential stretching. An alternative method of obtaining the
differential let-off is to warp the two or more divisions of the warp upon one or
more beams each beam consisting of two or more parts of different diameters (the
diameters varying according to the curve required) the warp for the inner edge of the
curved web being warped upon the smallest diameter and the warp for the outer
edges being warped upon the largest diameter the intermediate divisions being
graduated between the two extremes.
In order that the manner in which we carry our invention into effect may be fully
understood we have attached hereunto a sheet of drawings to which reference is made
hereafter. The methods of differential let-off motion previously described are well
understood and we confine the following description to the operation of the conical
rollers previously referred to.
In the said drawings Fig. 1 is a front view in perspective of the two sets of conical
rollers applied to an ordinary loom, constructed to weave a number of narrow webs.
Fig. 2 is a plan view of the take-up rollers and Fig. 3 is a plan view of the guide
and stretching rollers. Fig. 4 is a diagram representing a section of the whole series
of rollers through the centro of the web and shows the sequence of the passage of the
web round them. The same letters refer to the same parts in each. Referring
specially to Fig. 1, represents the breast beam of the Loom and in the same figure s
is the ordinary shaft which operates the take up motion in smallware looms. Upon
this shaft is fixed the take up conical roller c. Another conical roller d is pressed
against the roller c upon the inside. The roller & turns with or upon a spindle which
turns in bearings m, m in the forked ends of a bell-crank lever the arm of
which has notches for holding a ring and attached weight. The fulcrum of the lever
is at fand its support is supplied by vertically placed forked arms fixed at c.
may use any suitably shaped lever or springs for the purpose. The roller c is
covered with emery or sand and the roller d is covered with leather.
We
The receiving or guide roller a, see Fig. 3, is conical in shape and is placed with
its axis parallel to the axes of the let-off beams or bobbins. The stretching rollér b
of the same size and shape as the roller a is placed with its axis inclined at an angle
to that of the roller a, the inclination being in the same direction as the vertical part
of the outside of the periphery of the roller c, Fig. 2, but at a greater inclination.
Both rollers 'a and b are covered with emery or sand, are placed a short distance
apart as shewn in fig. 3 and they both turn in bearings in suitable brackets fastened
to the breast beam.
The web w first passes under the guide roller a, then over the stretching roller b,
then through the transverse slit in the breast beam, then under the take up
roller c then between the two rollers e and d and over the pressure roller d down into
the receiving box.
The conical rollers are all placed with their corresponding ends in the same
direction the web in its passage moving with its outer curved double edge nearest to
the wider ends of the rollers.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what we
claim is :-
1. In the weaving of curved waistbands the take up motion consisting of two conical
rollers arranged and operating substantially as set forth herein.
2. The conical guide and stretching rollers arranged and operating substantially
as and for the purpose set forth hereinbefore and in and by the accompanying
drawings.
3. The combination of a differential let-off motion, a conical guide roller, a conical

page_text: stretching roller, and a pair of conical take up rollers arranged and operating
together substantially as and for the purpose herein before described and illustrated.
Dated this Sixteenth day of May 1889.
CHARLES JONES.
RICHARD TOLSON.