Improvements in or connected with Embroidering Machines.
Year: 1888

page_text: Date of Application, 31st Dec., 1888
Complete Specification Left, 30th Oct., 1889-Accepted, 28th Dec., 1889
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
[Communicated from abroad by the firm of B. RITTMEYER & Co., Manufacturers, of
St. Gall, Switzerland.]
Improvements in or connected with Embroidering Machines.
1, JASPER WETTER, of the firm of Fairfax and Wetter, Pateni, Agents, of
433, Strand, in the city of Westminster, do hereby declare the nature of this
invention to be as follows: :-
This invention relates to that class of embroidery machines, in which the cloth
frame is suspended vortically, while the needles are arranged in one or more horizontal
rows like those of a Heilmann machine, each needle being provided with braiding
mechanism and adapted to work by engine power. My improvements relate
inore particularly to the mechanism for operating the needles and to the braiding
mechanism.
The entire machine comprises the following principal parts:
1. The cloth frame or embroidery ground which is suspended vertically and
equilibrated so that it may be moved easily in all directions of its own plane.
2. A row of reciprocating needles placed horizontally, and a braiding mechanism
for each needle, the function of the braiding mechanism being to form an ornamental
cord by coiling a braiding thread round the stitching thread, for which purpose the
braiding attachment revolves around the main spindle or hollow shaft.
3. A row of thread feeders for the needle threads, one opposite each braiding
mechanism on the opposite side of the cloth frame.
4. A pattern sheet and mechanism for operating the cloth frame and turning the
needles according to the pattern.
The operation of the needle and braiding mechanism may be briefly described as
follows:
Each needle has a barbed or hooked point and passes, horizontally through the
cloth, catches a thread from the other side and draws it back through the cloth, while
a presser foot concentric with the needle presses upon the braiding mechanism,
revolving around the stitching thread. Subsequently the sleeve which acts as a
presser foot, spool carrier and thread guide for the braiding thread is withdrawn, the
cloth frame is shifted, the needle again pushed through the cloth, and the same opera-
tion is repeated.
The braiding attachment is arranged as follows:
On the hollow main spindle or shaft of each needle mechanisu is mounted near its
front end, and adapted to turn independently thereof; a short sleeve, and on the
front part of this is fixed the combined pressure foot, spool carrier und tension
regulator, while the rear part carries a spur wheel which serves to turn the short
leeve on its axis. The body of the presser foot forms a hub attached to the main
leeve by a set screw; from the hub extends forward an arm carrying in front a
ing concentric to the axis of the sleeve and adapted to come in contact with the
loth. On the circumference of the hub are mounted on one side a pair of arms
arrying the axle of the braiding spool, and on the opposite side is fixed a stud
orming the nut for an adjustable screw spindle, the head of which has two perfora-
ions for guiding the thread. The thread passes from the spool through the nearest
ole of the screw spindle, back through the second hole, around the arm of the
resser foot, then inward through a perforation of the said arm into the interior of
he ring.
The rear portion of the main sleeve or shaft enclosing the hollow spindle or

page_text: central tube for the needle bar carries a bong outer sleeve which is held and guided in
a pair of bearings. On the sleeve is mounted a spur wheel which receives rotary
motion from a horizontal shaft (needle, directing shaft) and serves to turn the melle
bar at the required angle, for which purpose the outer sleeve is coupled with the
inside by a set screw passing through an axial slot, so that the outer sleeve imparts
rotary motion to the main sleeve or liollow shaft, but does not share the axial motion
of the main sleeve, or of the needle bar.
The spur wheel is connected with the outer sleeve by means of a groove and
feather, the latter being fixed to a coupling ring adapted to slide on the said
sleeve, so as to connect the spur wheel or allow it to turn on the sleeve as may be
required.
The to and fro motion, may be produced by means of a lover which is pushed
forward by an excentric and drawn back by a helical spring.
Each needle, after having pierced the cloth, enters an axial recess or perforation of"
a spindle carrying at its extremity (near the cloth), a ring with perforated flange,
through which passes the stitching thread on its way from the spool to the needle.
This spindle revolves on its axis alternately in opposite directions, so as to wind the
thread around the needle at every stitch of the same. This oscillating motion of the
spindle may be produced by the to and fro motion of a sleeve situated at the rear
end of the thread feeding apparatus, this sleeve having on its inner surface a pair of
radial pins which enter a pair of helical grooves on a rod which is connected with
the said spindle. Each sleeve may be set in motion by an excentric mounted on a
horizontal shaft extending along the rear of the machine and may be guided in a
straight line by projecting ridges which enter corresponding axial grooves on the
inner surface of a guide tube.
The spindle (except at its front end) is surrounded by a tube, to which rotary
motion may be imparted by means of a spur wheel.
This wheel is loose on the rear part of the tube and may be coupled with it by
means of an axially movable coupling ring. Near the front end of the tube is fixed
on the same a spool carrier and tension regulator.
Each of the thread feeders at the back of the cloth frame is provided with an
alarmi apparatus which comes into operation when the needle thread breaks and may
be constructed as follows:
The thread from the spool passes round a guiding wire, then through the eye of a
coiled tension wire, then through one of a row of perforations formed in a quadrant
mounted on the hub of the thread feeder, then, back through a second' hole of the
said row, around the hook or of a specially arranged sliding pin and finally forward
through a perforation of a flange or small quadrant fixed to the front of the central
spindle which is situated near the cloth frame.
The sliding pin mentioned above is placed parallel to the axis of the central spindle
and guided in a lateral extension of the hub so that the said pin may move to and
from the circular hub or disc of an alarm lever provided' with a concentric row, of
holes, into any of which the said pin may enter, when placed opposite. The said
sliding pin has a radial projection passing through an axial slot of its guide and is
actuated by a spring which tends to press the pin against the perforated dise or
bub mentioned above. In normal condition the thread passing through the hook of
the pin will draw the latter away from the disc, but as soon as the thread breaks,
the pin will be pressed into one of the holes of the disc and thereby cause the alarm
lever to revolve with the hub of the thread feeder, so as to strike a suitably placed
alarm bell:
To prevent the thread from slipping out of the needle, when it is cut off, thi
following device may be adopted.
Beliind the cloth is fixed a horizontal, rail or flat bar which affords a support of
abutment for the cloth and has a series of perforations for the passage of the needle
Near each perforation there is, fixed in, the said bar a pin serving as a fulcrum for
an angle lever which is formed of a wire coiled around the said pin. When one

page_text: arm of these angle levers is operated by a horizontally movable plate or rail,
extending along the entire machine, the other arm will pull the thread down beforu
it is cut off on the other side.
J. WETTER,
By Fairfax & Wetter,
433, Strand, London.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in or connected with Embroidering Machines.
1. JASPER WETTER, of the firm of Fairfax & Wetter, Patent Agents, of 433,
Strand, London, do hereby declare the nature of this invention, and in what manner
the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement:-
This invention relates to that class of embroidering machines, in which the cloth
is suspended vertically, while the needles are arranged in a horizontal row like those
of a Heilmann machine; each needle apparatus being provided with braiding mechanism
and adapted to work by engine power. My improvements relate more particularly
to the needle apparatus and to the braiding mechanism.
The entire machine.comprises the following principal parts:
:-
•
1. The cloth frame or embroidery ground which is suspended vertically and
equilibrated, so that it may be moved easily in all directions of its own plane.
2. A row of horizontally reciprocating needles, each of which is provided with
mechanism for producing a chain stitch, and with mechanism which forms an
ornamental cord by coiling a braiding thread round the chain stitch thread, for
which purpose the braiding attachment is caused to revolve around the main spindle
at the required moment.
3. A pattern sheet, and mechanism for imparting motion to the cloth frame,as
well as to the needle and braiding mechanism.
The general arrangement of the machine, as well as the pattern sheet, and the
means for imparting motion to the cloth frame according to the pattern, are similar
to those used in other embroidering machines worked by engine power. That is to
say, the cloth frame is set in motion by means of revolving discs, the edges of which
are in contact with metallic plates forming part of the cloth frame, the angle or
position of the discs, and therefore the direction in which the cloth frame moves,
being controlled by the motion of the pattern needle. Consequently, it will be
sufficient to describe one of the needle mechanisms together with its braiding
appliance and other accessories; which constitute one of the immediate working
organs.
Each mechanism is situated partly in front and partly at the back of the vertically
suspended cloth frame. The front part comprises a needle bar and the braiding
attachinent, as well as the mechanism for imparting amotion to the same.
The rear
part comprises the mechanism for supplying the chain stitch thread, and for guiding
the same, and an alarm apparatus which is called into action when the said thread
breaks.
In the accompanying drawings, Fig. 1 is a side elevation.and Fig. 2 a longitudinal
section of the needle mechanism and accessories situated in front of the cloth
frame; while Fig. 3 is a side elevation, and Fig. 4a longitudinal section of a
thread feeder placed in line with the needle mechanism, but .at the back of the
cloth.
The needle mechanism chiefly comprises.:
.A barbed needle n, similar to those used in Bonnaz' embroidering machines; a
needle bar or hollow inner spindle A, to which the rear end of the needle n is fixed
by a screw, and which receives reciprocating motion from the shaft by means of
sleeve b. rings b', 61, set screw b³, connecting rod and lever ; a hollow
spindle B, which surrounds the needle bar on the greatest part of its length; a

page_text: hollow main spindle C, which surrounds the spindle B and the front of the needle
bar A (into the front end of this spindle C is screwed a needle guide and presser
foot c) a revolving guide sleeve D, which surrounds-the central portion of the
spindle C; a short sleeve E mounted on the front end of the spindle and capable
of turning independently thereof, by means of a toothed rim or flange e, which gears
into a spur wheele driven by a horizontal shaft ; a hub F which is fixed to the
sleeve E and carries a ring as well as the spool holder and the tension device for
the braiding thread. The ring is concentric to the spindle and has a radial per-
foration for the passage of the braiding thread.
The tension device is an adjustable screw spindle /, passing through a radial arm
of the hub F, situated opposite to the spool carrier, as shown. The extremity of this
screw spindle is slightly reduced in thickness and has a pair of holes 1 and 2 for the
passage of the braiding thread.
The braiding thread passes from the spool through hole 1 of the tension device,
back through the second hole 2 of the same, round the arm of the ring, then
inward through a perforation of the said arm into the interior of the ring,
as shown. The tension of the thread may be varied by changing the position of
the spindle
On the sleeve Dis monnied a spur wheel d, which receives rotary motion from a
horizontal shaft d and serves to turn the spindles B and C and the needle bar to
the required angle, according to the pattern or the position of the stitches, for which
purpose the outer sleeve D is coupled with the inside by a set screw d passing
through an axial slot, and provided with an elongated head, which imparts rotary
motion to the spindles Band (but does not share the axial motion of the
same. This turning of the needle bar is rendered necessary by the adoption of
the ordinary hook-needle, and prevents the thread from falling out of the hook of
the needle.
The spur wheel d is connected with the outer sleeve D, by means of a key d,
which is fixed to a coupling ring d³ and fits into an axial groove in the interior of
the spur wheel, the said coupling ring being adapted to slide in such a manner, as to
connect the spur wheel or allow it to turn on the sleeve, as may be required.
The to and fro motion of the spindle is produced by means of a lever c', which is
pushed forward, by a variable eccentric c², mounted on a revolving shaft C3, while the
return motion is produced by a helical spring c³.
Each needle, after having pierced the cloth H, enters an axial recess or socket of a
spindle M carrying at its extremity a ring m with perforated flange, through which
passes the chain stitch thread N on its way from the spool S' to the work. The
spindle M revolves on its axis alternately in opposite directions, so as to introduce
the thread into the hook of the needle. This oscillating motion of the spindle M is
produced by the to and fro motion of a sleeve O situated at the rear end of the
thread feeding apparatus, this sleeve having on its inner surface two radial pins which
enter a pair of helical grooves on the rear part of the said spindle M. Each
sleeve O is set in motion by an eccentric P mounted on a horizontal shaft Q extending
along the rear of the machine, and is guided in a straight line by projecting ridges o
which enter corresponding axial grooves on the inner surface of a guide tube, as
shown by Fig. 5, which is a section along line a-b of Fig. 3. This guide tube is
connected with a rotary tube T, as shown in Fig. 4. The sleeve is connected
with the excentric rod by means of a ring O', which allows the sleeve to follow the
motion of the wheel U.
The central portion of the spindle is surrounded by a tube T, to which
rotary motion is imparted by means of a spur wheel U, according to the motion of
the cloth frame. This wheel, otherwise loose on the rear part of the tube T, is
coupled with it by means of an axially movable coupling ring V. Near the front
end of the tube T is fixed on the same a spool carrier and tension device. The alarm
apparatus which comes into action, when the needle thread breaks, is arranged as
follows:-
The thread from the spool S¹ passes through the eye X.of a sliding pin, then

page_text: through one of a row of perforations formed concentrically iu a quadrant & mounted
on the hub W of the thread feeder, then back though a second hole of the said row,
and finally forward through a perforation of a flange or small quadrant m fixed to the
front of the central spindle M.
The said sliding pin w is placed parallel to the axis of the spindle M and guided in a
Interal extension of the hub, so that the said pin may move to and from the
circular hub or disc of an alarm lever Y provided with a concentric row of holes,
into any of which the said pin may enter, when placed opposite. The said sliding pin
has a radial projection passing through an axial slot of its guide to and is actuated
by a wire Z and spring that tends to press the pin against the perforated dise or hub
mentioned above. In normal condition, the thread passing through the hook of the
pin will draw the latter away from the disc, but as soon as the thread breaks, the pin
will he pressed into one of the holes of the disc by the spring z and thereby cause
the alarm lever to revolve with the hub of the thread feeder, so, as to strike a suitably
placed alarm bell, by means of the pin y. His a horizontal rail extending the
entire length of the machine and serving as a support for the cloth H or embroidering
ground.
The excentric mechanism shown in Fig. 3 is constructed as follows:-
The excentric P is fixed on the shaft Qnt any desired angle by means of a set
screw the excentric P is loose on the said axle, but may be coupled with the
excentric P by-means of a pin p-and-retaining spring p. By removing the pin p,
the spindle M may be set out of action. The directing shafts and a which extend
the entire length of the machine, move simultaneously with each other and at the
same speed, according to the position of the next stitch or the motion of the cloth
frame; the motion of the shaft u serves to bring the thread carrier or oscillating
spindle M into the correct position relatively to the needle.
The travel of the needle, produced by the lever *, is about 2 centimeters, and
that of the needle guide or presser foot e about 1 centimeter. This guide c remains
in its forward position or in contact with the cloth, until the hook of the needle on
its return travel is situated about one millimeter deep in the guido c, after which the
latter recedes together with the needle.
The braiding apparatus makes a complete revolution around the axis of the needle,
while the latter moves forward and backward and thereby coils the braiding thread
around the chain stitch thread which has been drawn to the front of the cloth.
For producing thick cords or braids, a third thread, thicker than the other two,
is wound off a bobbin placed behind the needle apparatus, and is drawn through the
hollow needle bar, in order to be laid on the cloth in front of the needle.
If the braiding attachment is set out of action, each needle mechanism produces an
ordinary chain stitch.
I am aware, that embroidering machines for the same class of work and with the
same general arrangement, but using a different kind of needles (tongue needles),
have been made before the principal feature of novelty in my machine is the use of
ordinary Bonnaz or hook needles and the construction of the needle apparatus, which
is rendered necessary by the use of such needles.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is: :―
1. In embroidering machines of the class described, a needle apparatus com-
prising in its construction an ordinary hook or Bonnaz needle, mechanism for
imparting to it a reciprocating motion, mechanism for turning the needle bar on
its axis according to the position of the stitches, a thread guide or feeder (Mm)
and spool holder situated behind the cloth frame, mechanism for imparting to the
thread feeder an oscillating motion at every stitch, and mechanism for turning the
thread feeder in union with the needle, substantially as described.
2. In embroidering machines of the class described, a needle apparatus comprising
in its construction a reciprocating hook needle and a reciprocating presser foot,

page_text: mechanism for turning the same according to the position of the stitches, an
oscillating threal guide or feeder and a spool holder, situated at the back of the
cloth frame, and mechanism for turning the said thread feeder in unison with the
needle, substantially as described.
3. The combination of a needle apparatus, substantially as described, with a
braiding attachment, substantially as described.
4. The combination of mechanisms, substantially as described, for imparting to the
needle bar and to the presser foot a reciprocating motion and for turning them
according to the position of the stitches or the motion of the cloth frame.
5. The combination of mechanism, substantially as described, for producing an
oscillating motion of the thread feeder or guide (M m) and for turning the same on
its axis according to the position of the stitches.
6. The combination of thread feeder, spool holder and tension device, with an
alarm apparatus, substantially as described.
7. A needle apparatus comprising in its construction a needle n, needle bar A and
concentric tubes B, C, D, connected with each other and adapted to operate in the
manner, substantially as described and illustrated.
J. WETTER.