Improvements in Boots and Shoes.
Year: 1889

page_text: Dat of Application, 8th May. 1359
Complete Specification Left, 8th Feb., 1890-Accepted, 8th Mar, 1890
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Boots and Shoes.
We, ROWLAND BROTHERHOOD, of Cambria House, Chepstow, in the County of
Monmouth, Civil Engineer, and JAMES PESTER, of Oxford Street, Chepstow, Boot
Maker, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows
-
This invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of boots and shoes,
according to which the upper is made out of a single piece of material with only one
seam, viz. one down the heel.
The invention applies more particularly, but not exclusively, to laced and buttoned
boots and shoos
It has hitherto been the practice to make the upper of a laced boot for instance,
out of six separate pieces, viz., the vamp, two quarters, tvo facings, and the tongue.
According to the present invention we cut one piece of leather (or whatever material
the upper is to be male of) something like a crescent, but wider and straighter.
The junction of the ends produces the one seam down the heel. The facings are
produced by pleating the upper. The piece between the pleats is the tongue.
Dated this 8th day of May 1889.
PHILLIPS & LEIGH,
Agents for the Applicants.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Boots and Shoes.
We, ROWLAND BROTHERHODD, of Cambria House, Chepstow, in the County of
Monmouth, Civil Engineer, and JAMES PESTER, of Oxford Street, Chepstow, Boot
Maker, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is
to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement :-
This invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of boots and shoes,
according to which the upper is made out of a single piece of material with only one
seani, viz one down the heel.
The invention applies more particularly, but not exclusively, to laced and buttoned
boots and shoes.
It has hitherto been the practice to make the upper of a laced boot, for instance,
out of six separate pieces; viz, the vamp, two quarters, two facings, and the tongue.
According to the present invention, we cut one piece of leather (or whatever the material
1s) something like a crescent, but wider and straighter. The junction of the ends of
the crescent-shaped piece produces the one seam down the heel The facings are
produced by pleating the upper. The piece between the pleats is the tongue.
In order that our invention, and the means by which it is to be carried into
practical effect, may be thoroughly understood, we will now proceed to describe the
same in detail, referring in so doing to the accompanying figures, which are to be
taken as part of this specification and read therewith.
Fig. 1 is a perspective front view of a lace-up boot made according to the present
invention
Fig. 2 1s a detail shewing the double facings.
Fig. 3 is a detail shewing a portion of a pair of facings laced.
Fig. 4 is a side elevation of a buttoned boot made according to my invention
Figs. 5 and 6 are details
Referring to Figs. 1 to 3, which illustrate the application of my invention to the
production of an upper for a lace-up boot; the upper, after being cut of a crescent

page_text: shape as above described, is pleated down the front along the two pairs of lines a
and b, thereby producing the tongue c and the two facings d, d. The latter are
necessarily double, so that they are quite as strong as, or rather stronger than,
facings made in the ordinary way; and possess the additional advantage of not having
any cut edge or sewn seam.
The insertion of the eyelets e suffices to bind the two halves of a facing together
to the extent of making them practically one piece. The working of the button holes
will, in the case of a buttoned boot, have a corresponding effect
The heel seam is treated in the usual way.
Referring to Figs. 4, 5 and 6; in the case of a buttoned boot, there is only one
pleat, instead of two, as there is only one facing required. The upper is then cut
down along the line to form an opening sufficiently large to admit the foot, and the
cut edge of the inner half front is sewn to its fellow half.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we
claim is :-
1. Making a boot upper by forming one or two pleats down the front according
as to whether the boot is to be buttoned or laced, as set forth.
2. A boot upper having its facing or facings produced by forming one or two
pleats down the front according as to whether the boot is to be buttoned or laced,
as set forth.
Dhim oth J
1800
PHILLIPS & LEIGH,
22, Southampton Buildings, Chancery Lane, W.C., Agents for the Applicants