IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES
Year: 1885

page_text: CUMILLIE
DIECIFICATION.
I ALFRED JULIUS BOULT of 323 High Holborn in the county of Middlesex,
Engineer do hereby declare the nature of this invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
SEWING MACHINES" (a communication from Charles Almy Dearborn of New York
United States of America, Mechanical Engineer,) and in what manner the same is
to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:
1'
.
I
This invention relates more particularly to that class of sewing machines in
which both the shuttle and needle-bar are operated by vibratory levers driven from
a revolving shaft below the bed plate of the machine.
The present invention involves a number of novel features relating to the con-
nections between the shuttle-lever and driving shaft and between the needle bar
and needle lever; to the construction of the presser foot; to the construction of the
work plate slides or covers of the shuttle race; to the regulatable construction. of
the feed mechanism; to the take-up devices and to the bobbin winding mechanism
as bereinafter fully set forth...
In the Drawings annexed Figure 1 presents a front elevation of this improved
machine Figure 2 is a plan view of the machine, and Figure 3 an inverted plan
thereof. Figure 4 is a rear elevation and Figure 5 is a cross section on line x. x. of
Figure 4 looking to the left. Figure 6 is a detail view showing the position of the
bobbin winder when thrown out of action and Figure 7 is a similar view showing
the bobbin winder thrown into action. Figure 8 is a cross section of the bed plate
on line y. y. of Figure 1 in front of the feed mechanism illustrating the same.
Figure 9 is a sectional detail showing a portion of the feed mechanisin Figure 10
is a sectional detail of the slides of the work-plate, work plate or shuttle race.
Figure 11 is a plan of the take-up arm and its surroundings. Figure 12 is a
vertical section of the cap or guard of the take-up which also forms the spool
stand. Figure 13 is a perspective view of the presser foot. Figure 14 is a detail
illustrating the connection between the driving shaft and shuttle lever and
Figure 15 is a detail showing the connection between the needle lever and
peedle bar.

page_text: Referring to Figures 1. 2. 3 and 4 a. a. indicates the bed plate of the machine,
and b the overhanging arm thereof. c indicates the rotary driving shaft journalled
at each end in bearings d. d. beneath the bed plate and provided at the outer
extremity with the hand wheel e and grooved driving pulley f keyed thereto. gis
the needle lever pivoted on the arm b and connected to the pitman or eccentric
rod which is driven from the eccentric h on the outer end of the driving shaft.
The split spherical eye h² at the top of the pitman h¹ engages with a spherical
headed stud 3 projecting from. the needle lever which thus allows the proper
articulation of the parts. The long arm of the needle lever is terminated with a
cylindrical eye 5 as best shown in Figures 1 and 15 which engages a spherical
headed stud b screwed to the needle bar i which will thus allow proper articulation
at this point. The spherical head of stud 6 is split as seen in Figure 15 and into
it is screwed a tapered screw 7 whereby the head may be expanded when required
to take up wear which is an advantageous feature. The needle bar i slides in
bearings 8. 8. on the end of the arm as usual and is provided with a suitable clamp
in which to hold the needle in the ordinary manner.
Referring now to Figures 1. 3 and 4 k indicates the shuttle lever provided at the
fulcrum with the spindle or pivotal stem ¹ having conical ends one of which tits
into a conical socket beneath the bed-plate a while the other fits into a conical
socket on the end of an adjustable "center screw" k² which passes through a
supporting bracket which depends from the bed plate a as fully shown in
Figures 1. 3 and 4 thereby pivotting the shuttle lever on centers in a very secure
yet delicate manner which ensures a very easy movement. The shuttle lever is
preferably made of sheet metal stamped in form and secured on the pivotal stud k
by a nut and is thus both light and strong and will therefore possess little inertia
or momentum and thus conduce to ease and lightness by motion and reduce
tendency to rattle in its vibratory movements. The driving shaft c is bent into a
crank bend at m just opposite the short arm of the shuttle lever and the said
crank m is connected with the shuttle lever by a short link n having split eyes at
each end, one of which being cylindrical embraces the cylindrical crank wrist
while the other being also cylindrical engages a spherical headed stud 10 screwed to
the short arm of the shuttle lever as seen in Figures 1. 3 and 4. By referring to
Figure 14 it will be seen that the spherical head of the stud 10 is not integral with
the stud but is in the form of a loose ring 12 free to turn on the stud whereby a
much better articulation is secured and wear greatly reduced.
It will therefore be now understood that when the driving pulley e and driving
shaft c are revolved in the direction of the arrow that the needle-lever g and shuttle
lever k will be vibrated in proper relations to each other as shown by the drawings
to produce the correct sewing motions of the machine.
As seen best in Figure 3 the shuttle lever is provided at the end of its long arm.
with a shuttle carrier 14 of suitable form for holding the shuttle which vibrates in
the arc of a circle below the curved slot or shuttle race 15 in the bed plate. Now
referring to Figure 2 it will be seen that on the top of the bed plate over the
middle of the shuttle race is fixed as usual the throat plate 16 through which the
needle and feed bar work as usual (see also Figure 8) and on each side of this
throat plate are arranged the work plate slides or covers p. p. of the shuttle race.
These covers p. p. do not however slide straight in and out in dovetailed ways as
heretofore but are pivoted by broad headed studs r on the bed plate close to the
throat plate and are capable of being swung in or out on said pivot so as to cover
or uncover the shuttle race as fully shown in Figure 2, the outer end of the plates
being roughened as shown for better grasp of the fingers. These swinging plates
are much cheaper in construction and more convenient in action and neater in
appearance than the usual sliding plates and moreover cannot become detached and
misplaced as is the case with the sliding plates and constitute a very desirable
feature of the invention.
...The shanks of the pivotal studs r. r. of the swing plates p. p. project through
and below the bed plate as shown in Figures 3 and 10 and are engaged by the

page_text: forked ends of spring tongues o¹ on a spring plate o screwed to the bottom of the
bed plate, as well shown in Figure 3, which spring tongues exert a constant
pressure to pull down the studs and hold the swinging plates p. p. to their seats
with a sufficient friction to hold them in either the closed or open positions in which
they may be placed. The junction edges of the swinging plates b and the throat
plate 16 are not straight as usual, but are on a sinuous or S shaped contour which
forms in the throat plate a deep rounded notch, as seen at 18 in Figure 2 which
conveniently admits the finger in seizing and removing the shuttle, and thus gives
much more commodious access to the shuttle and permits an casier grasp of tho
same as will be readily appreciated.
Referring now to Figure 8 it will be seen that the throat plate has a slot as
usual through which works the toothed part of the feed bar 8. This feed bar is
pivoted by a stud 81 on the flange t which projects from the bottom of the bed
plate a in line with the shaft bearing d and on one side of the shuttle-race as seen
best in Figures 3, 1 and 8 the pivotal end of the feed-bar being slotted as shown in
Figure 8 to allow the feed bar to sway up and down as well as to reciprocate back
and forth sufficiently to produce the proper "four motion" feed as will be under-
stood. Now the end of the driving shaft c terminates just under the outer end of
the feed bar 8 as well shown in Figures 1. 3. 4 and 8 and on the end of the shaft
is fixed a small excentric t seen best in Figures 3 and while in a central bore in
the end of the shaft is fitted a sliding oblique crank pin-or cam bolt u, the outer
end of which is bent obliquely to give the effect of a crank or cam as will be here-
after seen. A spring u socketed in the bore in the shaft tends constantly to force
out the cam bolt u to its utmost, this protruding movement being limited by a
cross pin 19 driven through the cam bolt and working in a slot 20 in the driving
shaft as seen in Figure 1 and 8 which also prevent the cam bolt from turning in
the shaft. Now the outer end of the feed bar s is provided with two bearing
faces 21 and 22 at right angles to each other as seen best in Figure 8, the upper
and horizontal bearing face 21 resting on the eccentric t while the lateral and
vertical face 22 rests against the oblique end of the cam adjustable or crank bolt u
just where it issues from the eccentric on the end of the shaft. A retracting
spring arranged obliquely with one end connected to the feed bar and the other
end connected to the fixed flange a² acts to. keep the bearing faces of the bar con-
stantly drawn into contact with the eccentric t and the crank bolt u and hence
produces the return motions of the feed bar. It will therefore be now seen that
when the driving shaft with its eccentric t and crank bolt u are revolved that the
feed bar will be raised and lowered by the action of the eccentric t on the face 21
and the reaction of spring ; while the action of the crank bolt u against the
face 22 and the reaction of spring ; will reciprocate the bar horizontally and thus
produce a positive four-motion feed. It will be further seen that if the crank
bolt u is slid further into its socket in the shaft that an oblique part of the bolt of
greater radius will act upon the feed bar and thus increase the horizontal strokes
of the bar and thereby increase the length of the feed-motions or lengths of stitches
produced by the machine so that therefore by adjusting the cam bolt more or less in
or out the feed motion may be regulated to produce any desired length of stitch in
a very simple and effective manner. The sliding crank bolt is thus adjusted in or
out as described by means of the finger lever which is pivoted on the stud 20
under the base plate between the tongues of the spring plate o and has a crank
pin v which abuts against the tip of the crank bolt u as best shown in Figure 3.
The arm of the finger lever vis of a stiff springy nature and presses firmly against
the underside of the plate o and thereby produces sufficient friction to retain the
lever in any position in which it may be set. The outer end of the finger lever is
turned up or hooked as seen best in Figure 1 to more readily admit the grasp of
the fingers and it works over the curved projecting edge of the plate o which is
curved in the arc of a circle struck from the center of the lever v and is graduated
with degrees as shown best in Figure 2 while the tip of the lever is marked with
an index point which may be set at any of the graduations and thus indicate the
1 - 3

page_text: exact length of stitch desired. By this means it is obvious that the length of
stitch may be regulated in a most convenient effective and simple manner and the
desired length of stitch will be always clearly indicated as upon a dial on the top
of the machine thus enabling the adjustment to be restored at any time to any
definite length of stitch found desirable which is an important advantage of this
construction.
Referring to Figures 4 and 2 a indicates the presser foot bar which slides in the
usual manner in bearings 23 on the end of the, arm b and is provided with a
spring 24 arranged as shown in Figure 4 which pressing against a fixed collar 25
on the bar tends constantly to press the bar down and hold the presser foot w on the
throat plate over the feed bar as usual. The presser foot may be raised or lowered
in the usual manner by the cam lever 27 which is pivoted on the end of the arm
and acts against a projection on the collar 25 as shown in Figure 4. The presser
foot w is of somewhat peculiar construction as shown best in Figures 4 and 13.
That is it is formed with a semi-tubular shank adapted to snugly embrace the
cylindrical end of the presser bar as seen in Figure 4 and is provided with a
circumferential slot w running into one side to admit the stem. of the thumb
screw w. It will therefore be seen that this construction allows the presser foot
to be stamped from sheet metal which conduces to lightness and economy and the
presser foot can be readily applied to the bar by a partial rotary motion passing
the slot over the stem of the screw and then tightening the screw which will hold
the foot firm and in absolutely true position. In order to enable a hem to be
stitched evenly and close to the edge the presser foot is provided with a little guide
for this purpose as shown in Figure 13 where 33 indicates a little spring tongue
rivetted on the top of the foot on one side of the needle slot and provided with a
toe 34 at its outer end adapted to project down in the front end of the needle slot
below the upturned front end of the presser foot and on a level with the throat
plate or nearly so. In this way the toe of the guide will project before the front
edge of the hem and thus form a gauge for the hemmed edge of the work to abut
against and ensure its being guided to the needle in an even line close to the edge
as will be readily appreciated. When this guide is not required it may be sprung
up on the top of the presser foot as indicated by dotted lines in Figure 13.
•
The spool z as shown in Figures 1. 4 and 5 rests on a hollow sheet metal cap 36
which is fixed on a small round boss or platform 37 cast on the top of the vertical
part of the arm b. This cap is provided with a central pin 38 to enter the bore of
the spool and is secured to the platform by a screw 35 as seen in Figure 2 while
the edge of the cap rests in a groove in the platform as seen in Figure 5. The cap
has a circumferential slot at one side through which the take up arm 39 works in
a horizontal arc. This take up arm has a hooked or slit tip which protrudes from
a slot in the spool stand to admit the loop of the spool thread as seen best in
Figures 2 and 11 while the main portion of the arm is covered and concealed by
the spool stand and projects from a vertical rock shaft 40 beneath the spool stand.
This rock shaft 40 passes down along one side of the arm as seen in Figures +
and 5 its upper end being suitably journalled in the platform while its lower end
passes through a bearing at the base of the arm and projects below the bed plate
where the extremity of the shaft is bent with a short cranked bend which lies
against an eccentric cam 41 on the driving shaft c. A torsional spiral spring 42
arranged as seen in Figures 4 and 5 having one end fixed to the platform 37 and
the other to the rock shaft tends constantly to turn the shaft so as to keep the
cranked end pressed against the cam and produces the return motion of the take
The machine is threaded as follows, as best shown in Figure 1. The
thread in being led from the spool is first passed under the friction or tension
spring 50 and in a single loop half around the pin 51 thence in a loop through the
hook of the take up and thence through the thread guides or hooks 52 and 53
down through the eye of the needle.
up arm.
It will therefore be now seen that the revolution of the cam against the cranked
end of the rock shaft will turn the shaft. at the proper moment so as to swing

page_text: back the take up arm positively so as to draw up the shuttle loop of the needle
thread while the spring 42 will rotate the shaft in the reverse direction to let out
the loop at the proper moment as will be readily understood by reference to the
drawings. This take up mechanism as will be seen is very simple and efficient
and being located at the back of the arm and directly under the spool stand its
position is much, more convenient for actuation from the main shaft and for the
manipulation of the operator than when located on the front of the arm as is more
commonly. the case.
By now referring to. Figures 6 and 7 in connection with Figures 12 and 3 the
bobbin winding mechanism will be readily understood. f¹ indicates a grooved
pulley of the same size as the. driving pulley f and running freely on the driving
shaft close to the pulley f. 60 indicates the bobbin winder which is of the ordinary
type pivoted on the stud 61 at the base of the arm b and near a slot 62 in the bed
plate so as to be capable of being swung into vertical or horizontal positions as
seen in Figures 6 and 7. 63 represents a belt-shipping lever which is preferably
of elbow-form pivoted below the bed plate with one arm projecting horizontally
and lying against a projection 64 on the bobbin winder while the other arm
projects over the rim of the pulleys f. f1 and is terminated with an eye 65-through
which the driving belt passes in running over either pulley. A spring 66 tends
constantly to keep the lever 63 in contact with the bobbin winder and to swing
the lever 63 into the position shewn in Figure 7. It will therefore now be seen
that when the bobbin winder is swung up into its vertical position as in Figure 6
that the belt slipping lever 63 will be swayed so as to keep the driving belt on the
driving pulley fand hence the driving belt will now drive the sewing mechanism
of the machine and the bobbin winder will remain inactive. When however it is
desired to wind bobbins then the bobbin winder will be swung down in its
horizontal position as seen in Figure 7 in which case the winding roller 67 of the
bobbin winder will be brought down into frictional contact with a flat rim 68 on
the loose pulley f' and at the same time the belt slipping. lever will be swayed so
as to shift the driving belt from the fast driving pulley f to the loose pulley f¹, so
that consequently the driving belt will now revolve the loose pulley to operate the
bobbin winder in a rapid easy manner without moving the sewing mechanism of
the machine which will now remain at rest. Hence by this simple device the.belt
is shifted automatically from the driving pulley to the bobbin winding pulley and
vice versa by the mere movement of the bobbin winder according as the bobbin
winder is thrown into or out of action and the mechanism for accomplishing this
is very simple and efficient and forms a desirable feature of this improvement.
.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed as communicated
to me by my foreign correspondent I declare that what I claim is
A
.
1st. In a sewing machine the combination with a vibrating lever arm-g and
reciprocating bar i of the articulating joint connecting the same consisting of the
cylindrical eye 5 and split expansible spherical stud or projection 6 substantially
as shown and described.
...:
2nd. The combination with the arm b and bar i of the cylindrical éye 5 split
spherical stud 6 and expanding screw.7 substantially as and for the purpose set
forth.
3rd. In a sewing machine the combination with a rotary cranked driving shaft c
and a vibrating shuttle lever k of a link connecting the two with the stud 10 and
free spherical ring 12 arranged and operating substantially as herein set forth..
4th. In a sewing machine the combination with a rotary driving shaft and a
reciprocating feed bar of an oblique sliding crank or cam pinu projecting from the
end of the shaft engaged rotatively therewith and adjustable in or out therein
and arranged to revolve against a bearing face on the feed bar whereby an
adjustable stroke of the feed bar is obtained substantially as set forth...

page_text: 5th The combination in a sewing machine with a rotary driving shaft and a
reciprocating feed bar of the oblique sliding crank pin u arranged in the end of the
shaft and revolving against a projection on the feed bar with a manipulating device
to slide the said pin a in or out substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
6th. The combination with the driving shaft c and feed bars having bearing
face 22 of the oblique sliding crank pin u engaged in one end of the shaft
projecting spring u¹ and adjustable lever v v³ arranged and operating substantially
as and for the purpose set forth.
7th. The combination with the rotary driving shaft c and the feed bars with
bearing faces 21, 22 of the eccentric t'oblique sliding crank pin u and retracting
spring substantially as shown and described.
8th. In a sewing machine the combination with adjustable feed mechanism of an
adjusting or manipulating lever v and a graduated arco over which the same is
moveable substantially as shown and described.
9th. In a sewing machine the combination with the bed plate and shuttle race of
a swinging plate or plates pivoted at or near the shuttle race and arranged to
partly revolve or swing on their pivots in a horizontal plane to uncover or cover
the shuttle race substantially as herein shown and described.
10th. In a sewing machine the combination with a pivoted swinging plate or
cover on the shuttle race of a pivotal stud and a tightening spring arranged to
exert a constant frictional pressure on the pivotal end of the plate to retain it
in the opened or closed positions into; which it may be swung substantially as
set forth.
11th. In a sewing machine the combination with the bed plate and shuttle race
therein of the swinging plate p pivotal stud r and tightening spring o¹ substantially
as and for the purpose set forth.
12th. In a sewing machine having a rotary driving shaft beneath the bed plate
and a slotted spool stand 36 mounted on the top of the overhanging arm at the
back end thereof the combination with the cam or eccentric 41 on the driving
shaft of the cranked rock shaft 40 actuated thereby and rising vertically at the
back of the arm with its upper end provided with the vibrating take up arm 39
working in the slot of the spool stand substantially as herein set forth.
13th. In a sewing machine the combination with the bed plate and a rotary
driving shaft c beneath the same and the overhanging arm having the spool
platform 37 and slotted spool stand 36 of the cam 41 cranked rock shaft 40
spring 42 and take up arm 39 arranged and operating substantially as and for the
purpose set forth.
14th. In a sewing machine the combination with a presser foot bar having a
cylindrical or rod like termination of a presser foot having a semi-tubular shank
arranged to embrace the end of said bar with a circumferential slot to admit the
clamp screw substantially as shown and described.
15th. In a sewing machine a presser foot provided with the guide 33, 34 arranged
and operating substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
16th. In a sewing machine the combination with a driving shaft having a fast
and loose pulley of a pivoted or swinging bobbin winder and a belt shipping arm
or lever arranged to shift the driving belt from one pulley to the other and
operatively connected with the bobbin winder whereby the depression of the
bobbin winder will bring its winding roller into contact with the loose pulley and
simultaneously shift the belt thereon whereas the opposite movement of the bobbin
winder will withdraw its roller from the loose pulley and shift the driving belt
therefrom onto the fast pulley substantially as and for the purpose set forth.
17th. In a sewing machine the combination with a fast and loose pulley a shifting
belt and a shifting bobbin winder of the belt shifting lever 63 engaging the belt at
one end and operatively connected with the bobbin winder at the other end and
arranged to automatically shift the belt by the movement of the bobbin winder
substantially as and for the purpose shown and described.

page_text: 18th. The combination in a sewing machine with fast and loose pulleys a shifting
belt and a pivoted bobbin winder of the belt shipping lever 63 and a spring 66
arranged to constantly press one arm of the shipping lever against one arm of the
bobbin winder the said contacting arms being so disposed that when the bobbin
winder is raised out of action said arms are placed at right angles or nearly so
whereas when the winder is depressed into position for action said arms are parallel
or nearly so whereby the spring impelled lever 63 tends to hold the winder in
either position in which it may be placed and tends to hold the winding roller
against the loose pulley when so placed substantially as shown and described.
19th. The combination with the pivoted bobbin winder 60 the fast and loose
pulleys ff belt shifter 63 and its spring 66 arranged and operating substantially
as and for the purpose set forth.