IMPROVED METHODS OF AND MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR SEWING MATERIALS IN THE MANUFACTURE Sius TUNTS AND OTHED HEAVY WORK
Year: 1881

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Earle Henry Smith, of the City of New York, United
States of America, for an Invention of "IMPROVED METHODS OF AND
MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR SEWING MATERIALS IN THE MANUFACTURE
Sius TUNTS AND OTHED HEAVY WORK"
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Earle Henry Smith at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 1st November 1881.
EARLE HENRY SMITH, of the City of New York, United States of America.
"IMPROVED METHODS OF AND MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR SEWING MATERIALS
IN THE MANUFACTURE OF SAILS, TENTS, AND OTHER HEAVY WORK."
My Invention relates to an improved method of, and apparatus for sewing heavy
materials, such, for instance, as sail cloth, cloth for tents, leather, and the like.
In sewing up a sail or similar article according to my Invention, one breadth of
the material is supported and secured so as to leave a margin thereof free, and
another breadth is sewed on to such margin with a lap-seam by a travelling sewing
machine moving on an elevated railway or tramway, said machine being placed
for this purpose on a carriage, and made adjustable thereon for seams of different
widths. The sewing machine may be of any suitable and well known con-
struction.
Suitable feeding mechanism advances the machine and its carriage on the
railway stitch by stitch, and a part of the railway frame supports the breadth in
process of being added to the one last sewed. The platform support for the goods and
the sewing machine has gauges and guides respectively for gauging and guiding
the edges of the two breadths being united, and the machine may have two or
more needles for sewing two or more seams at once.
A convenient stitch for this work is the oblique or herring-bone stitch; and to
produce this mechanism, is provided for vibrating the needle or needles from side to
side transversely to the line of the seam.

page_text: In one modification the entire sewing apparatus is so reciprocated across the
line of the seams. In the latter case the seam-guides for the lapping edges of the
breadths are independently supported on a sort of bridge that spans the machine-
bed. I also use duplicate machines, one following the other on the same or on
parallel lines of rails.
My Invention comprises a novel process of effecting wax thread sewing, wherein
the thread is used "dry," particularly for the needle, and the wax is applied warm
or cold to the leather or other material at each stitch as fast as formed, and such
wax if thinned may be used hot and made to penetrate the material more or less,
and in some cases to impermeate the under thread at the stitch last made.
I however prefer to use a thread for the shuttle, which thread has already been
waxed, and to wax only the needle-thread as the sewing progresses.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed
by the said Earlo Henry Smith in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
1st May 1882.
EARLE HENRY SMITH, of the City of New York, United States of America.
"IMPROVED METHODS OF AND MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR SEWING MATERIALS
IN THE MANUFACTURE OF SAILS, TENTS, AND OTHER HEAVY WORK."
My Invention is illustrated in the Drawings hereto annexed, and which form
part of this Specification, and which are referred to in the following statement by
reference letters and figures marked thereon as follows, viz.:—
Figure 1 is an end elevation of the frame or support for the material in process
of being sewed, shewing a cross section or end view of the elevated railway
I employ, and giving a side view of the sewing machine and the carriage therefor
used upon said railway.
Figure 2 is a detached view of part of one of said work supports (herein termed
a desk) as seen from the right of Figure.
Figures 3 and 4 are top views of the sewing machine carriage, and of the bed
plate of the machine as with the bracket arm removed to shew parts beneath.
Figure 5 is a front view.
Figure 6 is a side elevation, and Figure 7 is a partial top view of a modification.
A, A', represent the end of a framework, the length of which equals that of the
work sewed, the rear portion of which A¹ forms a platform or support for the
sewed work, and B indicates a roller on which the completed work may be wound.
The front portion A has a tramway C extending the entire length of the work
supports, said trainway having rails a laid thereon that receive and guide the
wheels of a carriage D on which is mounted a sewing machine.
The tramway and rails are preferably elevated as near to the level of the
support A and of the sewing machine bed as practicable, whereby greater steadiness
of the machine and hence more uniformity of stitching is secured than where the
railway is laid on or near the floor.
To illustrate the practice of my Invention in connection with a railway, I will
describe the same as used in the making of sails and tents, wherein breadths of
canvas are united with lap seams.
Supposing a sail in process of manufacture, the bulk of material and the breadth
last sewed or back breadth is supported horizontally on the frame or platform A¹,
part of the frame A and another part A³ of such frame serves to hold up the
breadth of goods, which in process of being added passes under the bracket arın of
the machine.
The carriage D consists in part of a frame b on which the margin of the machine
bed rests, and the underframe d of the machine is embraced between the sides of
carriage frame. Such frame is longer than the machine, and admits of being
moved thereon toward and away from the tramway for sewing different lines of
stitching, and the carriage is provided with fixed and adjustable stops F and F¹
or their equivalent, and a graduated plate for determining the place or places of
the machine on the carriage, according to the width of seam or the lines of stitching
to be sewed.
The machine is also furnished with proper seam guides for holding the work
properly under the operation of the needle or needles.
In adjusting the work for sewing, the aforesaid back breadth is placed on its
support A', so that the front edge and margin thereof may reach forward under the
presser foot and needle of the machine.

page_text: To have such front edge lie in line and parallel with the path of the sewing
machine I provide a suitable gauge or gauges attached to some part of the work
supporting frame, and extending the entire length thereof. I do not confine myself
to any particular gauge for the operation. The device for this purpose, shown in
"desk" A²,
the Drawing, consists of a straight bar H disposed in this instance on a
part of the frame A. It is susceptible of being used without change of place, but
it is here pivoted like a parallel rule to links c, c, whereby it may be adjusted
nearer to or further from the railway, while maintaining a parallel relation thereto
at every point. By a slotted segment made fast to one of the links and a screw k
the bar may be secured in place when so adjusted as aforesaid, and is available for
gauging and lining the goods to a right line their entire length. I do not confine
myself to this form of gange, as such gange is new in itself in this connection.
While lining the front edge of the back breadth by means of this gauge preparatory
to adding a fresh breadth thereto, such back breadth is bent down so as to lie on
the desk A³, and when once properly lined with the line of travel of the sewing
machine and carriage on the tramway, such breadth is first temporarily secured to
the platform A¹ immediately above A³, leaving a portion of the margin free
throughout its length, which margin is then raised up and laid on the machine bed.
The outer or front breadth is next secured by its rear edge or margin to the back
breadth, and placed in position on the machine for receiving the sewing. At the
same time, and before a line of sewing is begun, the lap seam guides L, I, are
adjusted for forming a seam of of the width of lap adopted; for instance, if the lap
of the seam is two inches, one of the guides is set so as to bring a line of stitching
along the edge of one breadth, and the other guide placed two inches therefrom
behind the needle; then having set the adjustable stop F on the carriage D two
-inches-from-the-fixed-stop-F1-the-sewing-machine-is-placed-in-the-relation-to-the-
stop F shown in Figure 3.
The two lines of stitching required to secure the two lapping edges, under and
upper, may be sewed consecutively by the same machine, but the more expeditious
way is to sew them at the same time by different machines, one following the other
on the same track, and, as shown in the Drawings, the line of sewing first done is
that along the overlapping selvage of the front breadth,
In Figure 4 is illustrated the sewing of the other line of stitching, and the
relative place of the parts therefor. The machine is set back to the place of the
stop F', the guide L is loosened and turned aside out of the way, and the guide I
is moved up to the needle. The edge of that breadth that lies on the support A¹
passes under the projection i of the guide I, and the edge of the breadth that is
supported by the sewing machine and frame A³ passes over the guides I and L, but
under the projection of the guide L. As each seam is completed the work is
moved back or across the platform or support A¹, and if desired may be wound on
the roller.
The sewing machine or machines and the carriage are advanced on the tramway
intermittently as the sewing progresses by any of the known means for so advancing
a traveling sewing machine. A plan of my Invention, which I have used with
success, is illustrated in Figures 1, 3, and 6; it consists of a rack of cogs M (or it
may be a chain) made fast to a part of the tramway frame, and is engaged by a
pinion O affixed to a shaft N journaled in the carriage D, and which shaft is also
provided with a friction clutch and wheel Q (like a sewing machine wheel feed
clutch) fastened to said shaft; said shaft is turned by a suitable connection P com-
municating with the sewing machine feed lever, as shewn in dotted lines in Figure 3.
The wheel Q is so disposed on shaft N with respect to the connection with the feed
bar, that the machine may be moved to any point within the limitation of the
stops F, F, without sensibly affecting the operation of the feed mechanism or the
length of stitch, while the latter may be regulated in the usual manner.
combination of advancing mechanism the advantages of the friction clutch, so well
known to the art, are combined with those of a positive and frictionless means of
engaging the tramway, viz., the rack and pinion. At every advancement of the
In this

page_text: machine and carriage the goods are released by lifting the presser foot. The means
for this purpose, shown in the Drawings, is an eccentric m on the main shaft in the
arm f, which actuates a bell crank lever n that. engages with a pin affixed to the
presser foot bar, as illustrated in Figure 5.
Seams may be sewed by a straight line of stitching close to the selvage, or by a
line of oblique stitching lying across and over the edge or selvage of the goods.
The latter is preferably for sails, tents, and other heavy canvas work. For this
purpose the machine of Figure 1 has its needle bar running in a holder P¹, which
in this instance swings on a pivot near the top to admit of being vibrated (as indi-
cated by dotted lines) from side to side of the lapping edge of the seam. Any
mechanism may be used for imparting this motion found on machines which form
this style of stitch. The Drawing shews a cam wheel I', on the back perimeter of
which are cogs gearing into a bevel wheel k¹ on the vertical shaft J; the cam
wheel I has twice the number of teeth as the wheel ', and the face has a cam
groove therein, as shewn, whereby it is capable of producing one reciprocating
movement back and forth in every two revolutions of the main shaft H' and
vertical shaft J. L' is a lever pivoted at the upper end to the bracket arm f, and
a roller or tappet at the lower end runs in a groove. The cam I conveys motion
to the needle bar holder by a rod G pivoted to the holder, and connecting with the
lever L' by a movable fulcrum pin e in a slot in said lever, whereby to increase or
diminish the lateral vibration of the needle, and so regulate the spread of the oblique
stitch upon the seam. The machine preferred is the shuttle or lock stitch variety,
but others may be used.
In Figures 5, 6, and 7, I have shewn a modification of the oblique stitching
mechanisin, which differs from that above described in having no vibrating needle
bar holder, but instead the machine itself has a lateral movement across the line of
the seam, carrying the needles with it as well as the shuttle, and for some purposes
this plan, now to be described, is superior to the former.
The same cam wheel is employed and conveys its motion to the sewing machine
instead of to a needle bar. To permit this the bed plate of the machine is hung
and sustained on upright links a¹ (of which there are two on each side) pivoted to
the under frame d of the bed plate and to the carriage. Thus the said links a¹
hold the entire machine free from the support or carriage. The lever L' is con-
nected to the sewing machine by an arm g attached by a pivot to the bracket
post f. A pine on the arm 7 engages with the lever L' and forms the movable
fulcrum thereof, which fulcrum is also made adjustable in the slot of the lever L'
for the purpose before mentioned in referring to Figure 1.
By using two needles and two shuttles, two lines of oblique stitching securing
both the lapping edges of the seam may be executed at one operation, the com-
binations thereof are new here, and a part of my Invention consists in the
adaptation of such double or "twin machines" to this purpose by combining such
twin machine in operation with a railway and with seam guides.
In the modification I am describing, in order to control the goods and hold the
same stationary with respect to the lateral motion aforesaid of the machine, the
seam guide or guides are not fastened to the bed plate of the machine, but to an
independent support. Such a support is illustrated by the bridge E' which I have
devised for the purpose. It is made fast to and sprung from the carriage D and
spans the sewing machine bed. On the bridge the seam guides are adjustably
secured in the same manner as when attached to the sewing machine, whereby
such guide or guides maintain a fixed relation to the feed movement and prevent
the goods from following the lateral movement of the machine while carrying its
needle or needles from side to side. And the oblique stitching is formed by this side
to side motion combined with the feed of the machine or goods. As shown in
Figures 1, 3, & 6, the guides I, L, are adjusted in place for sewing down the
upper lapping edge of the seam. I do not confine myself to lap seam guides but
use others according to the work to be done.

page_text: I will now .describe my new method or process of forming wax thread sewing
from a dry thread; such method consists in sewing with unwaxed thread, and then
applying wax to the needle thread above the goods at the point of laying the
thread thereon to form the stitch as the sewing progresses.
Referring to Figure 5, dotted lines, indicates a vessel containing liquid wax,
which may or may not be warmed by the flame of a lamp or gas jet. A tube leads
from the vessel to a point near the presser foot and has a stop cock to which a
lever is affixed, which lever embraces the needle yoke in the needle bar after the
manner of a rufling attachment. As the needle moves up and down in sewing,
the stop cock is opened momentarily and then closed, a little wax being allowed to
pass to the needle thread at the last stitch formed or in formation, and if desired
enough liquid wax can be allowed to escape to wax the goods also, in the line of
the seam; and if a little spirits of turpentine be added such wax will directly
penetrate the goods and impermeate the under thread also at the same point. Thus
the wax is applied at stated intervals to the goods while supported in a horizontal
position.
A waxed thread may be sometimes used for the under thread. To provide for
following the lateral movement of the needle while sewing and waxing a scam of
oblique stitching, the stop cock lever is jointed so that it may swing laterally but
remain rigid vertically.
In the foregoing improvements I do not confine myself to specific devices where
others operating in the same way for a like purpose inay be substituted, and while
not limiting myself to the following,
I particularly claim as my Invention,―
1st. The method of uniting fabrics consisting in gauging and aligning the edge.
of one breadth of the material to be sewed to a right line throughout its length,
securing such breadth so lined to a platform or support, leaving a free margin and
guiding and sewing another breadth thereto with a travelling machine.
2nd. The combination with the travelling machine of a support for the goods
lying directly in the path of the machine.
3rd. In combination, the work support lying in the path of the sewing machine
and the tramway elevated nearly to the height of the work support.
4th. In combination, a travelling sewing machine, a support for the goods lying
directly in the path of the machine, and a support for the goods lying adjacent,
that is, alongside of such path.
5th. The combination of the travelling sewing machine, the work support for
the goods sewed, and means of gauging the edge of the goods before sewing.
6th. In combination, the travelling machine, the work supports, one or both,
and seam guides for guiding the edge of the goods under the needles in sewing.
7th. In combination, a travelling sewing machine, a carriage for the machine
adapted to move over a tramway, and mechanism for engaging the carriage with
the tramway to advance the machine and carriage thereon.
8th. In combination, a sewing machine carriage, a sewing machine movably
attached thereto, mechanism for engaging the carriage with the tramway, and
means of transmitting the motion to the engaging mechanism from the sewing
machine.
9th. In combination, the work support A', the railway, and the work support A³
provided with a cogged rack M or its equivalent.
10th. The combination with a work support of the gauge bar H, substantially
as described.
11th. The combination with the travelling machine of means for engaging and
advancing or feeding the machine on the railway, and means for vibrating the
needle or sewing device laterally as to the line of the feed.
12th. The combination with a sewing machine of means for vibrating the needle
or sewing device, mechanism for advancing or feeding the machine or goods, and
seam guides for guiding the edge of the goods under the needles.

page_text: 13th. The combination with the travelling sewing machine of means for pro-
pelling the machine on the railway, and means for lifting the presser foot
intermittently for the purpose specified.
14th. The stops F and F on the carriage for the purposes specified.
15th. The bridge El for the purpose specified.
16th. The rack and pinion on the carriage and railway combined with a clutch
and wheel actuated from the sewing machine feed lever by a suitable connection
as set forth.
17th. The combination with the work supports and railway of twin or duplicate
machines travelling on the same or parallel tracks, and provided with seam guides
and means of vibrating the needles laterally for sewing two or more lines of
oblique stitching at the same operation.
18th. The process, substantially as specified, of forming machine sewed wax thread
seams from dry thread, consisting in sewing the seam with unwaxed thread and
applying liquified wax at intervals to the sewing thread or the seam on the upper
surface of the material while the same is supported in a horizontal position.
In witness whereof, I, the said Earle Henry Smith, have hereunto set my
hand and affixed my seal, this Fourth day of April, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and eighty two.
Witnesses,
JAMES M. TULLY.
JONATHAN MARSHALL.
EARLE HENRY SMITH. (L.S.)