Improvements in the Manufacture of Jackets and Blouses.
Year: 1894

page_text: Date of Application, 9th June, 1894
Complete Specification Left, 14th Aug., 1894-Accepted, 22nd Sept., 1894
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Jackets and Blouses.
"
I FRANK JOSEPH NICHOLLS of "Branksome Hainault Road, Leytonstone,
Essex, Tailor and Knickers Maker, do hereby declare the nature of this invention
to be as follows:-
This invention relates to an improved method of making shooting jackets and
blouses, and is intended to render them more easy and comfortable in wearing
while using the gun.
With the ordinary jacket or blouse, when the gun is raised to the shoulder, the
arms are prevented from having free action. To give the arms free play,
I propose to make the upper portion of the garment in a special manner, so that
it will give easily to any pressure that may be put upon it in manipulating the
gun. These shooting jackets and blouses, are made with a seam extending across
the back from one armpit to the other, a vertical seam extending from the centre
of this to the bottom of the garment.
According to my invention, the horizontal seam extends right round the jacket
dividing it completely into two halves, an upper and a lower, the seam meeting
the two armhole scams.
The upper portion, instead of being made of cloth arranged vertically, as in the
ordinary case,
is made with the cloth cut diagonally. As is well known, cloth will
stretch much more when pulled diagonally than when pulled along the line of the
thread, and thus the whole of the upper half of the garment will give readily,
forming a yoke, easing the arms and allowing them to be moved freely.
The ordinary shoulder seam can be dispensed with in this arrangement if desired,
A shoulder pad is
the whole upper part being cut from one piece of cloth.
stitched on the shoulder in the usual place. The collar, arms and lower part of
the garment are cut in the usual manner from straight cloth.
To the lower part of the jacket I may fit a detachable pocket of large size to
carry the game. The pocket extends all round the bottom of the jacket inside,
and is of any convenient depth. It is fixed in position by means of buttons and
and button holes, or tags, or may be furnished with a number of strong spring
hooks or swivels, which can be sprung on to corresponding rings or loops stitched
or otherwise fixed on the inner side of the jacket. With the arrangement and
cutting of the cloth above described, the weight of the bag and contents can be
carried without inconvenience to the wearer, as the pull comes upon the seam at
the back, and is distributed evenly over the shoulders without hampering the
arms.
Dated this 9th day of June 1894.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION..
Improvements in the Manufacture of Jackets and Blouses.
I, FRANK JOSEPH NICHOLLS of "Brankscome" Hainault Road, Leytonstone,
Essex, Tailor and Breeches Maker, do hereby declare the nature of this invention,
and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement :-
This invention relates to an improved method of making shooting jackets and

page_text: blouses, and is intended to render them more easy and comfortable in wearing while
using the gun.
With the ordinary jacket or blouse, when the gun is raised to the shoulder, the
arms are prevented from having free action. To give the arms free play I propose
to make the upper portion of the garment in a special manner, so that it will give
easily to any pressure that may be put upon it in manipulating the gun. These
shooting jackets and blouses, are made with a seam extending across the back from
one armpit to the other, a vertical seam extending from the centre of this to the
bottom of the garment.
According to my invention the horizontal seam extends right round the jacket
dividing it completely into two halves, an upper and a lower, the seam meeting the
two armhole seams.
The upper portion, instead of being made of cloth arranged vertically, as in the
ordinary case, is made with the cloth cut diagonally. As is well known, cloth will
stretch much more when pulled diagonally than when pulled along the line of the
thread and thus the whole of the upper half of the garment will give readily,
forming a yoke, easing the arms and allowing them to be moved freely. The
ordinary shoulder seam can be dispensed with in this arrangement if desired, the
whole upper part being cut from one piece of cloth. A shoulder pad is stitched on
the shoulder in the usual place. The collar, arms and lower part of the garment
are cut in the usual manner from straight cloth.
To the lower part of the jacket I may fit a detachable pocket of large size to
carry the game. The pocket extends all round the bottom of the jacket inside,
and is of any convenient depth. It is fixed in position by means of buttons and
button holes, or tags, or may be furnished with a number of strong spring hooks
or swivels, which can be sprung on to corresponding rings or loops, stitched or
otherwise fixed on the inner side of the jacket. With the arrangement and cutting
of the cloth above described, the weight of the bag and contents can be carried
without inconvenience to the wearer, as the pull comes upon the seam at the back
and is distributed evenly over the shoulders without hampering the arms.
In order that the invention may be more clearly understood, reference is bad to
the accompanying sheet of drawings, in which Fig. 1 is a back view and Fig. 2 is
a front view of the jacket, and Fig. 3 shows the bag attached to the inside.
A is the jacket of the description worn when shooting, with protecting shoulder
pads a. The jacket is made with the upper portion B separated from the lower by
the seam b extending completely around the jacket at the level of the armpit
seams. The portion B is made as above described with the cloth arranged
diagonally, indicated by the cross lines in the drawing, the lower portion and
collar being made with the cloth arranged in the ordinary manner, but with a
central or back seam C, in addition to the ordinary side seams c.
The bag D is fitted inside the jacket and is shown suspended from the buttons d
by the tags permitting the bag to be readily attached and detached. The bag
is shown double so that when removed it can be doubled at the centre and slung
from the shoulders by a strap or other means.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is.
(1.) A shooting jacket or blouse having its upper or shoulder portion divided from
the lower by a horizontal seam, and made from cloth arranged diagonally sub-
stantially as described and for the purposes specified.
(2.) A shooting jacket having a horizontal seam extending completely around it
at the level of the armpit, and a vertical back seam from the centre of the
horizontal seam to the bottom of the jacket, the shoulder or upper portion being
made from diagonally placed cloth, substantially as described and shown and for
the purposes specified.

page_text: (3.) The improved shooting jacket with detachable bag, constructed and
arranged substantially as described and shown in the accompanying drawings, and
for the purposes specified.
Dated this 13th day of Avant 1801
FRANK JOSEPH NICHOLLS: