Improvements in Stiffeners for Collars, Bands and other Parts of Wearing Apparel.
Year: 1899

page_text: Date of Application, 9th Jan., 1899-Accepted, 18th Feb., 1899
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Stiffeners for Collars, Bands and other Parts of
Wearing Apparel.
I, ADOLF VORWERK, of Barmen, Kohlgartenstrasse, No 5-9, Manufacturer,
Rhenish Prussia, Germany, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and
in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement:-
This invention relates to an improvement in the form of collar stiffeners,
especially for ladies' dresses and it has for its object to give the collars when worn
or placed in a close fit round the neck such a shape that the rear part of the
same is higher than the front part below the chin, in order to secure an easier
and more agreeable wear and fit.
All collar stiffeners hitherto known made in the loom or in the braiding machine
are of uniform width throughout their whole length. In order to make these
stiffeners fit easier, their ends are some times cut to taper, but in this case such
stiffeners have all the disadvantages and draw backs of those stiffeners cut out
of a piece of woven stuff: i.e. the edges have no selvedge and the stiff threads
which are cut through, especially those running crossways or in a radial direction
to the curvature of the fabric form a sharp edge and are liable to rub unpleasantly
on the skin of the neck.
These disadvantages are avoided by my new invention of which I give an illus-
tration on the accompanying drawing and which I will describe hereafter.
Figure 1 shows the new collar stiffener in plan without special fastening
devices for the lining and covering cloth;
Figure 2 shows the same provided with one of known means for easy fixing
of the lining and covering stuff;
Figure 3 shows in a diagram how the new collar stiffener is made in the loom;
Figure 4 shows a variation having a straight edge on one side and a curved
edge on the opposite side.
As will be seen from the figures the new collar stiffener differs from those in
use by its peculiar shape, resembling a half moon or part of a sickle; in the
forms, which will be carried out principally, though not exclusively as per
Figures 1 and 2, that is to say its width is greatest in the middle of its length
at A, and decreases towards both ends B. Besides this both edges of the fabric,
the inner one as well as the outer one have a closed selvedge like the well known
"conical" collar stiffeners of uniform width or with parallel edges.
I make the improved collar stiffener with a selvedge at both sides by weaving
long bands or strips in such a manner that the warp threads alternately from
a certain point gradually diverge for the half length of a collar stiffener and ten
converge again in the same ratio so that the spread of the warp varies continually:
hereby the well known means for giving the fabric at the same time
curved or so called conical shape may be used.
a
Figure 3 gives a diagram of the fabric for making the collar stiffeners as it
comes from the loom and which indicates that the band or strip thus produced
D
017

page_text: appears like a continuity of parts I, II, III
"
each of nearly half moon
or sickle shape, so that each such part or section cut off forms a collar stiffener.
Theoretically the outer warp threads would form sharp angles but practically
the change of direction is a more gradual one as indicated in the drawing:
this may cause small bits of waste, which may have to be cut cff to get the true
forms indicated in Figs. 1 and 2.
It is not absolutely necessary that both edges are curved; one edge may be
straight and the other only curved as indicated in Fig. 4. A collar stiffener
of this shape answers my purpose nearly as well, though, I prefer the more
complete shape, but in this variation the warp threads also diverge and converge
in the same way as indicated before and the fabric produced is also broader in
the middle and decreases in width towards both ends.
The strip or band coming from the loom is of course finished by the usual
stiffening process, and sections cut off from it, as indicated by lines r, ; y y, give
the collar stiffener proper.
The collar stiffener shown by Fig. 2, as will be seen, differs from that of
Fig. 1 in this, that along both edges there are two stripes b, b and c, c, worked
in, showing a different appearance from the main character of that of Fig. 1 and
of the other parts of Fig. 2. These strips are to indicate that the new collar
stiffener can be provided with any of the known means for facilitating the fixing
of the lining and covering cloth, such as strips of soft tape or lace fixed along
and near both edges or a stripe of soft material forming the warp at those places
or a kind of perforations caused by missing bindings between the warp and weft
threads to form that stripe as indicated in the figure.
These means are not new in themselves and the object in mentioning them is
only to show that the new collar stiffener may be made plain and uniform in its
aspect as in Fig. 1 or with the described variations as indicated in Fig. 2.
The gist or the essential of the invention consists firstly in the making of the
new collar stiffener in a form, having a greater width in the middle and de-
creasing towards both ends resembling somewhat half moon or sickle shape or
that of a parabolic girder and secondly by making it with a true selvedge at
both sides.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is:
-
A straight or a so called conical collar stiffener either plain or provided with
the known means for facilitating the fixing thereon of the lining and covering
cloth and worked in such a manner that it- width is greatest in the middle or
its length, whilst it decreases towards both ends, the sides of said coller stiffener
having at the same time true selvedge, the whole as described and illustrated and
for the purpose set forth.
Barmen, this 7th day of Januar 1899