IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES FOR EDGE SEWING AND BUTTON HOLES
Year: 1875

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Joseph Reimann, of No. 7, Rue Papin, in the
City of Paris, in France, Sewing Machine Manufacturer, for the
Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES FOR EDGE SEWING AND
BUTTON HOLES."
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Joseph Reimann at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
18th March 1875.
I, JOSEPH REIMANN, of No. 7, Rue Papin, in the City of Paris, in
France, Sewing Machine Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of
the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES FOR EDGE SEWING
AND BUTTON HOLES," to be as follows:-
My Invention of improvements in sewing machines for edge sewing
and button holes consists of an arrangement and combination of
mechanism by which a more perfect button hole stitch is produced than

page_text: that now made by machinery, and this stitch may be employed, not only
for button holes, but for stitching the edges of any fabric.
The machine produces the stitch by means of two threads, one of
which is led by a needle mounted on a needle carrier and the other by a
hook. The needle is caused to penetrate the fabric and come out under-
neath, forming a loop which is caught by a hook and carried to the right
during the return stroke, the needle which is then at the height of its
stroke redescends and pierces the fabric, but from its oscillating move-
ment outside of the fabric on the edge of the loop it then rises and
forms a loop in which is introduced a second thread carried by a second
hook towards the left, so that in redescending it pierces the fabric after
the feed movement. The needle is passed into the loop formed by the
thread of the hook; this in withdrawing leaves its thread round the
needle of which the loop draws upon the fabric, the thread of the hook
thus forming together the interlacing.
The combination of the movements of the hooks with those of the
needle produce an interlacing of two threads on the edge of the fabric;
also forming a sort of ridge or border perfectly imitating the ordinary
button hole stitch, and of great strength.
The principal and novel features of my Invention consist of using in a
sewing machine a needle having a vertical and oscillating movement
and two hooks working either vertically, horizontally, or in any required
direction, such machine producing a durable and sightly machine made
button hole, and applicable to stitching the edges or openings of any
fabric.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Joseph Reimann in the Great Seal Patent Office
on the 10th September 1875.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JOSEPH
REIMANN, of No. 7, Rue Papin, in the City of Paris, in France, Sewing a
Machine Manufacturer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Eighteenth day of March, in the year
of our Lord One thousand cight hundred and seventy-five, in the

page_text: thirty-eighth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and suc-
cessors, give and grant unto me, the said Joseph Reimann, Her special
license, that I, the said Joseph Reimann, my executors, administrators,
and assigns, or such others as I, the said Joseph Reimann, my executors,
administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no
others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the term
therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the
Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
SEWING MACHINES FOR EDGE SEWING AND BUTTON HOLES," upon the con-
dition (amongst others) that I, the said, Joseph Reimann, my executors
or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one
of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the
nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be
performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent
Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the date
of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Joseph Reimann, do hereby declare
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is
to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement thereof, that is to say :-
My Invention of improvements in sewing machines for edge sewing
and button holes consists of an arrangement and combination of
mechanism by which a more perfect button hole stitch is produced than
that now made by machinery, and this stitch may be employed not only
for button holes but for stitching the edges of any fabric.
The machine produces this stitch by means of two threads, one of
which is led by a needle mounted on a needle carrier and the other by a
hook. The needle is caused to penetrate the fabric and come out under-
neath, forming a loop which is caught by a hook and carried to the right
during the return stroke; the needle which is then at the height of its
stroke redescends and pierces the fabric, but from its oscillating move-
ment outside of the fabric on the edge of the loop it then rises and
forms a loop in which is introduced a second thread carried by a second
hook towards the left, so that in redescending it pierces the fabric after.
the feed movement. The needle is passed into the loop formed by the
thread of the hook; this in withdrawing leaves its thread round the

page_text: needle of which the loop draws upon the fabric, the thread of the hook
thus forming together the interlacing.
The combination of the movements of the hooks with those of the
needle produce an interlacing of two threads on the edge of the fabric;
also forming a sort of ridge or border perfectly imitating the ordinary
button hole stitch, and of great strength."
The arrangement and method of working my improved machine is as
follows, reference being made to the various Figures shown on the
Sheet of Drawings hereunto annexed :—
Figure 1 is a front elevation of the machine; Figure 2, a side view ;
Figure 3 is a section on the line 1, 2, shewing the extreme parts of the
machine; Figure 4 is a plan; Figures 5 and 5ª shew the machine making
a button hole.
The Figures 6 and 7 shew the stitches drawn on a large scale and
serve to explain the different movements producing the interlacing of
the threads, as the stitch seen on one side only of the tissue would be
insufficient to explain it; the Figure 7 represents the stuff doubled and
opened, so that the stitch on both sides as well as the interlacing of the
threads on its thickness are developed on a plan; the Figure 6 shews
the tissue folded as it is during the work.
When the machine is in motion the needle penetrates the stuff at the
point 1; it comes out below at the point 1 and forms its loop which is
caught by a hook and carried to the right in 1' during the return stroke ;
the needle which is then at the height of its stroke redescends and
pierces in P, but from its oscillating movement outside of the tissue on
the edge in the loop 1¹ it then rises and forms a loop in which is
introduced a second thread carried by a second hook towards the left, so
that in redescending it pierces the tissue in 2; after the feed movement
the needle passed into the loop formed by the thread of the hook; this
in withdrawing leaves its thread round the needle, of which the
loop draws upon the tissue, the thread of the hook thus forming
together the interlacing. It follows from the combination of the move-
ments of the hooks with those of the needle an interlacement of two
threads on the edges of the tissue, forming a sort of ridge or border
perfectly imitating the stitch of the button hole which is of great
strength.

page_text: For the better understanding of my Invention I will now describe the
various parts indicated by letters upon the above-mentioned Figures.
A is a table of slight thickness surrounded with a frame; B is the arm
with the square return B', but is fixed on the table by the screws b, b, b;
B2, B3, horizontal supports projecting from the arm B; C, driving pulley
mounted on an axle c journalled into the two opposite sides a, a¹, of the
table; it carries on its circumference a groove in which the cord works,
which gives it the movement; its interior face has a groove or gorge c¹, c¹, c¹;
lastly, a little cam D, of which the form is indicated in dotted lines
Figure 3; d, d, is fixed at its centre; E, axle turning in the two.
extremities of the arm B in '; and at its right end is a pin E¹ fixed
solidly and carrying an arm e rounded off at its lower part and furnished
with an axle on which is mounted a roller e¹ which rests upon the cam D;
a stem e² maintained by a screw to the arm e is pressed by a spring e³,
and forces the roller c¹ to remain during all its movements, constantly
leaning upon the cam D, nevertheless the course of the pulley can be
augmented or diminished at will by the tightening of the screw e* which
traverses the stem e; a counterscrew e³ prevents any movement of the
screw during the work of the machine. At the other extremity of the
axle E is keyed a cast-iron head F, terminating at the top and bottom by
two projecting parts f, f¹, leaving between them a space; on these
projections or carriers rests the needle carrier F1 adjusted with dovetails
between the two slides f³, f³, fixed by the screws f*, f*, f*, at its upper
part; the needle carrier F¹ is fitted with a little round piece f³ pierced
with a hole for the passage of the thread; below it is equally pierced with
a little hole fo for the same purpose; the needle F is placed in a little
groove and maintained solidly by a screw f' fastening the piece f³ which
bears above; F³, roller fixed to needle carrier.
It is to be noticed that the roller e¹ of the lever e receives from the
cam D an alternating movement which it communicates to the axle E,
and consequently to the head F and to the needle carrier F¹ adjusted
above it. The needle is then given an oscillating movement.
In the supports B2, B³, turns an axle G, of which the right extremity
receives a pin g with lever fitted with a roller g² working in the
groove c', c¹, of the driving pulley C; at the opposite extremity a lever
with a pin g³ is keyed on the axle G; this lever is terminated by a
fork which encloses the roller F, and in its movement makes the
needle carrier rise or fall.

page_text: to press
The hook H is fixed at one extremity of the axle H', the other
extremity fitted with a piu / carrying a lever of which a rectangular
part ' receives an axle 2 on which moves a roller with a rim s; the
top of this lever is cylindrical and carries another roller which rolls in
the horse-shoe H cut out of one side of the upper part ; a spiral
spring draws the axle longitudinally and forces the roller
itself constantly on the outer side of the horse-shoe H, so that when the
roller is in the hollowed out part the axle slides in the supports a, a¹,
and the hook approaches to the needle. The hook K is fixed to the
large axle K which is fitted at its outer end with pin lever K¹ of which
the axle K bears a roller K³, the top of the lever receives a second
roller K which rolls like in a horse-shoe k; its bevilled extremity /
forces the axle drawn by a spring to displace itself horizontally.
The two rollers and rest on the same cam i, i, i, keyed on the axle c;
these rollers slide upon the small axles h², k², being again brought into
place at the same time as the levers ¹, ¹; that cam in pushing off the
rollers ³, ³, gives to the levers / and / alternating movements which
they communicate to the hooks, spiral springs drawn on the axles and
force the rollers to bear constantly on the cam, each of the hooks is then
endowed with two movements, the circular one alternating vertically
and the other to and fro horizontally.
I will now describe several parts, which although accessories are not
less useful auxiliaries in the mechanical stitch. It concerns the drawing
of the feed presser and of the bottom supports and of the passage of the
threads. The drawing or feed takes place by the aid of the claw bar L
furnished with two movements which are communicated to it by the
cam L', the one lifting up, the other of progression; the lifting move-
ment is given twice in each revolution, as shewn in Figure 1, by the
two bosses 1, 1, 1, 1, on which bears the screw 13 fixed to the bar L,
the movement of progression is equally given by the bosses in contact
with the roller & suspended under the bar. It will be noticed that this
is drawn by a spring which forces a screw 13 and the roller 1 to bear
constantly on the cam L'.
The means employed to regulate the draught consist in a plate J
fitted with two grooves j in which are two square tappets fixed by the
screw j, j a roller j is held upon the draw bar L by a screw wbich
serves as an axle by the aid of the screw j³, j; the length of the point is
;

page_text: augmented or diminished in making the roller bear suitably on the
groove L¹ of the plate, the boss of the cam then acting only partially.
The feed foot is thus formed:-A cast-iron head M, similar to that
of the needle carrier is fixed to the support B by the screw m; then
before it is the vertical lever M¹ terminated at its lower part by a curved
piece M held by a screw m³, and having a large groove or channel for
the passage of the needle; when the machine works the feed foot is
lowered and rests upon the stuff; when it is at rest it is lifted up by a
small piece m² of which the Drawing shews the form and which turns
round a scrow as its axis; the lever M' slides on the two carriers of the
head M. upon which it is applied; it has two grooves m³ of sufficient
length, in which are little square slides; the washers m*, m², and a
screw m attach them to the carriers; as to the pressure on the stuff it
is given by the spring m enveloping the stem m² fixed in m³ on the
bottom of the lever and in m at the head M; one of the supports of
the bobbin is attached at N on the arm B, the tension regulates itself in
tightening or loosening the screw n; the other bobbin is placed on the
support O fixed on the side of the table, the tension of the thread being
increased or diminished by tightening more or less the screw o².
For the passage of the threads divers pieces are placed, such as n¹
fixed on the head F, 03, attached to the hook K, o', screwed on the
frame, and o³ on the frame, the thread passes in the groove o³, and is
tightened by the spring o' which bears lightly upon it to prevent the
thread tangling.
I will now explain the working of the machine :-In front upon a table
is a thin plate S polished and pierced with a hole for the passage of the
needle; that plate, representing Figure 4, has an opening in which the
claw works and the remainder is closed by a little sliding plate S¹, as in
the sewing machine. The red thread is passed by the conductors n¹, ƒ³‚ƒ³,
and lastly by the needle o', and the blue thread by the conductors o*, 0³, 0º,
then by the holes of the hook K. The little sliding plate S¹ being
drawn out to facilitate the operation, the thread is then retained under
the little spring x, matters being thus disposed and the needle placed as
it is drawn, that is to say, when it is lifted up after having formed its
loop which it presents to the hook H, it is inclined to the left and pierces
into the stuff if the motive pulley is put in movement, the hook H takes
the loop of the thread and pushes it to the right just as the needle has

page_text: arrived at the top of its stroke, the hook in the same time advances
horizontally to present the loop which it has taken to the needle.
When this descends the needle carrier inclines to the right and makes it
pierce into nothing, that is to say, on the edge of the tissue, it passes
into the loop previously drawn there by the hook H which draws back
behind the needle carrier F rises, the needle forms a loop in which
passes the hook K bearing the blue thread which is pushed towards the
left in the same time that this same hook is drawn horizontally to
present its thread to the needle.
The needle conducted by these parts which I have described above.
descends into the stuff and passing into the loop of the blue thread of
the hook K which immediately retires behind, letting go the loop of the
red thread which it had previously retained, thus drawing the blue
thread under the tissue and forming a new stitch. The needle rising up
forms a loop which again takes the hook H, and the machine is back
again to the position where it was; it has made one revolution and two
stitches, of which one has been made on the stuff and the other outside
on its border. The stitch is made and tightened not in the stuff but on
its outer border, so that a button hole made with this machine imitates
the button hole made by hand and has all its solidity.
To make button holes the tissue V is placed on the plate S of the
machine after having first made the incisions, such as T, T; then by the
screw the inclination of the head is regulated which gives the size of
the stitch, the needle is inclined to the left and it is made to descend
into the incision T, Figure 5ª, the end of the thread of the hook being
maintained by the spring x, and the feed foot or claw being lowered tho
button hole is began along one of the sides; the sewing having to come
to the end of this the feed foot is lifted a little to turn the cloth round
on the end where a few stitches are made; then it is turned again for
finishing the last side.
The Figure 5 shews the needle F pierced in the stuff V%; the
Figure 5 shews it pierced into empty space.
Whatever the work to be done, whether a border or a button hole, and
whatever the tissue upon which the work is done, the operator has only
to turn the stuff at the desired change of direction.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my
said Invention and how the same is to be carried into operation, I would

page_text: have it understood that what I claim and desire to secure by the hercin-
before in part recited Letters Patent is,―
Firstly. The use of the new stitch as herein-before described and
illustrated by the accompanying Drawing, Figures 6 and 7.
Secondly. The combination of the vertical needle Fº carried by a claw
of the oscillating needle upon the hook H having alternating move-
ments, and the needle K shewn upon the oscillating axle which has a
slight horizontal movement in the end, as herein-before described and
illustrated by the accompanying Drawings.
Thirdly. The arrangement of the cam D and the arm e acting by the
axle E upon the oscillating head F which carries the claw of the
needle F as herein-before described and illustated by the accompanying
Drawings.
And Fourthly. The combination of the cam i upon the axle cam c
with the arms h, k, the axles H', K, and their respective rollers and
guides in the horse-shoes H², K², and the springs 7, º, to oscillate the
axles and to give them a slight movement in the ends, as herein-before
described and illustrated by the accompanying Drawings.
In witness whereof, I, the said Joseph Reimann, have hereunto
set my hand and scal, this Ninth day of September, in the
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-
five.