IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS, SHOES, AND GOLOSHES, OR OTHER COVERINGS FOR AND YW LACTS OF BLOCKS FOR FACILITATING оттат M & WYYYLA
Year: 1861

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Edward Wilkins, of No. 8, Bath Terrace, Cam-
berwell New Road, Gentleman, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN
THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS, SHOES, AND GOLOSHES, OR OTHER COVERINGS FOR
AND YW LACTS OF BLOCKS FOR FACILITATING
оттат M & WYYYLA AM
Sealed the 15th August 1861, and dated the 20th February 1861.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Edward Wilkins at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 20th
February 1861.
I, EDWARD WILKINS, of No. 8, Bath Terrace, Camberwell New Road, in
the County of Surrey, Gentleman, do hereby declare the nature of the
Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE 'MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS, SHOES, AND
GOLOSHES, OR OTHER COVERINGS FOR THE FEET, AND IN LASTS OR BLOCKS FOR
FACILITATING SUCH MANUFACTURE," to be as follows:―
This Invention consists in forming the vamp or front of boots, shoes, and
goloshes in two parts, or cutting the same down the middle and uniting the
divided parts or half vamps together by means of a strip of elastic or water-
proof material or leather rivetted or sewed on to, upon, or over the edges
thereof, and either in combination with or without a slip of metal inserted
under the strip of elastic or waterproof material, and attached to one edge of
the divided vamp to prevent the entrance of wet or damp. Also (in boots,
shoes, and goloshes made according to my Patent of 1860, No. 1019) in
inserting between the metal sole plate and either the insole or the outer
sole, or both, a layer or filling in of elastic material, or a metal spring, or both,
in lieu of the ordinary filling in of leather scraps to give elasticity to the shoe
and ease to the foot. Such layer or filling in of elastic material or spring, or
both, may be limited in size and shape to such parts of the bottom of the boot,
shoe, &c., where the greatest pressure of the foot occurs in the wear thereof,

page_text: or may be of the size and shape of the whole bottom of the boot, shoe, or
golosh. Also in making lasts or blocks (for facilitating the manufacture of
such boots, shoes, goloshes,&c.) of iron, combined with wood, for affording the
means of more readily affixing thereto such boots, shoes, &c., in the course of
manufacture. The bottom of the last or block is made of iron, cast or formed
with spaces or openings therein, such spaces or openings being filled in with
wood to admit of the insole or bottom of a boot, shoe, or golosh being readily
attached thereto, and detached therefrom by means of "lasting tacks," or
otherwise; and the upper part of the last or block being formed of wood, and
having one or more strips or pieces of iron inserted in parts thereof, so as to
afford a hard surface at those parts where corresponding parts of the boot,
shoe, or golosh are required to be rivetted.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Edward Wilkins in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
17th August 1861.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, EDWARD
WILKINS, of No. 8, Bath Terrace, Camberwell New Road, in the County of
Surrey, Gentleman, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twentieth day of February, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-one, in the twenty-fourth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me,
the said Edward Wilkins, Her special licence that I, the said Edward Wilkins,
my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said
Edward Wilkins, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time
agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter
during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use,
exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland,
the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS, SHOES, AND GOLOSHES, OR OTHER COVERINGS FOR THE
FEET, AND IN LASTS OR BLOCKS FOR FACILITATING SUCH MANUFACTURE," upon the
condition (amongst others) that I, the said Edward Wilkins, my executors
or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one
of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature
of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed,
and causethe same to befiled in the Great Seal PatentOffice'within six calendar
months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.

page_text: NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Edward Wilkins, do hereby declare the
nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be per-
formed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement thereof, that is to say :-
My Invention consists, firstly, in forming the vamp or front of boots, shoes,
and goloshes in two parts, or cutting the same down the middle and uniting the
divided parts or half vamps together by means of a strip of elastic or water
proof material or leather rivetted or sewed on to, upon, or over the edges
thereof, and either in combination with or without a slip of metal inserted
under the strip of elastic or waterproof material, and attached to one edge of
the divided vamp to prevent the entrance of wet or damp. The elastic
material I prefer to employ for such strip is india-rubber woven fabric, of
about one inch in width, and of length sufficient to extend from the toe (or
nearly so) to or above the instep. The elastic strip is by preference to be
attached to the under side of each edge of the divided vamp by rivetting.or
sewing, and so that the two edges lie in contact when there is no strain upon
theelastic; and the vamp may have eyelet holes near each edge, through which
an elastic lace can be passed to prevent too great strain upon the elastic strip;
or, the elastic strip may be attached by similar means to the upper side of each
edge of the divided vamp. And, if desired, a strip of thin metal (of rather less
width than the elastic) may be inserted either under or over the elastic strip for
more perfectly excluding wet or damp; such strip of metal being attached to one
edge only of the divided vamp, and consequently capable of sliding or giving
way to the expansion of the elastic strip. For shoes it will generally be suffi-
cient to have the vamp divided in a straight line extending from the centre of
the toe to the top or instep; and for boots, from the centre of the toe to a
little above the instep, but it may be divided by any curved or irregular line,
the elastic strip being adapted accordingly; or, where great ease and elasticity
is desired, the vamp may be divided into three or more parts, and attached
together with elastic strips in a similar manner.
The fronts of gaiters, or those parts which lie over the instep, may have
elastic strips, or triangular or other shaped pieces of elastic material inserted
in like manner and by similar means, so as to afford greater flexibility and
ease to the bend of the foot in wear. The material I have found best adapted
for the elastic strips is a fabric composed of india-rubber and linen or cotton
strands, but any other material possessing sufficient strength and elasticity
may be used.
And in some cases I use only a strip of leather instead of
elastic for uniting the two or more parts of the vamp together.
$
My Invention consists, secondly, (in boots, shoes, and goloshes. made

page_text: according to my Patent of 1860, No. 1019,) in inserting between the metal
sele plate and either the insole or the outer sole, or both, a layer or filling in
of elastic material, or a metal spring, or both, in lieu of the ordinary filling
in of leather scraps to give elasticity to the shoe and ease to the font. Such
layer or filling in of elastic material or spring, or both, may be limited in size
and shape to such parts of the bottom of the boot, shoe, &c., where the
greatest pressure of the foot occurs in the wear thereof, or may be of the size
and shape of the whole bottom of the boot, shoe, or golosh. A metal spring
adapted for the purpose is formed by having a flat plate of copper or other
suitable metal of size suitable to the size of the boot or shoe to which it is to
be applied, but not extending under the waist thereof. Upon this plate a
narrow but longer strip of similar metal is attached by rivetting one end of
the strip closely upon one end of the metal plate, and I so curve the plate that
while its other end touches the longer strip, the intermediate parts shall lie a
small distance asunder. This spring being inserted between the insole and
outer sole, will when the bottom of the boot or shoe is fitted up and com-
pleted cause a cavity or hollow to be formed in the middle part of the sole at
or near that part upon which the ball of the foot presses. When in wear the
pressure of the foot comes upon the sole, the middle or curved part of the
metal plate collapses upon the metal strip, by reason of the free end of
the plate sliding along the metal strip, and on the pressure being removed the
plate resumes its former curved position; thus affording a great degree of
elasticity and flexibility to the sole of the boot or shoe. A pad or layer of
wool, horse hair, or other similar material may be applied (alone or in addition
to the metal spring) between the insole and the outer sole, and either over
the entire width and length of the sole of the boot or shoe, or only in such
parts thereof where the greatest pressure occurs in wear. And I find it of
advantage to attach by glueing or india-rubber solution, a layer of india-rubber
or gutta percha upon the inner side of the outer sole, in lieu of the ordinary
filling in of leather scraps and paste. The following combination of materials
I have found in practice to make a good sole for ordinary wear:-First, an
insole of leather, next a horse-hair pad under the ball of the foot, next a
metal sole plate, (according to my Patent of 1860, above referred to,) next a
layer of india-rubber, and lastly, an outer sole of leather. The horse-hair pad
furnishes a soft tread for the foot, the metal sole plate renders the sole im-
pervious to wet or damp, and the india-rubber give a general elasticity and
durability to the leather sole.
My Invention consists, thirdly, in making lasts or blocks (for facilitating
the manufacture of such boots, shoes, goloshes, &c.) of iron, combined with

page_text: wood, for affording the means of more readily affixing thereto such boots,
shoes, &c., in the course of manufacture. The bottom of the last or block is
made of iron, cast or formed with spaces or openings therein, such spaces or
openings being filled in with wood to admit of the insole or bottom of a boot,
shoe, or golosh being readily attached thereto, and detached therefrom by
means of "lasting tacks" or otherwise; and the upper part of the last or block
being formed of wood, and having one or more strips or pieces of iron inserted
in parts thereof, so as to afford a hard surface at those parts where cor-
responding parts of the boot, shoe, or golosh are required to be rivetted. I
make a last according to my Invention by cutting from off the bottom of an
ordinary wooden last a piece of the whole width and length of the last, and of
about half an inch (more or less) in thickness. I then cut out spaces or
epenings in the piece so cut off of such size and shape as it is desired the iron
casting shouldhave lefttherein, and I use the piece so shaped and prepared as
a core for forming a mould, into which cast iron is to be run.
Such casting
is then to be attached to the wooden upper part of the last by screws or other-
wise, and the spaces or openings in the iron casting filled in with wood for
readily receiving the lasting tacks. On the upper side of some wooden blocks
or lasts I insert a strip of iron or steel extending from the toe to the top, or in
any other positions whereany rivetting will be required on corresponding parts
of the boot, shoe, &c. A last or block thus formed will be found greatly to
facilitatethemanufacture of boots,shoes,&c., by rivettingor pegging,inasmuch
as whilethe last can bereadily attached and inserted or removed,hard surfaces
are provided at all necessary parts for clenching or turning the points of the
rivets or pegs by the blow of a hammer. At the same time the last is suffi-
ciently light to be easily handled by the workmen.
In witness whereof, I, the said Edward Wilkins, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Seventeenth day of August, One thousand
eight hundred and sixty-one.
0
Witness,
THO. THORNTON.
EDWP. WILKINS. (L.s.)