Improvements in Sewing Machines.
Year: 1897

page_text: Date of Application, 14th Sept., 1897-Accepted, 18th Dec., 1897
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Sewing Machines.
I, WILLIAM NELSON PARKES, of 28 Harman Street, Brooklyn, in the County of
Kings and State of New York, United States of America, Merchant, do hereby
declare the nature of this invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:-
My invention has reference to improvements in sewing machines, and especially
to the so-called "zig-zag over-seaning or serge sewing machines," it having for its
object to expand the mechanism of such machines to automatically forin button-
holes, tacks, bars, and an unlimited variety of stitches or stitch designs. The
essential feature of my invention consists in combining with the stitch-forming
mechanism of a sewing machine having a vertically reciprocating and laterally
vibrating needle-bar or holder, means for automatically changing laterally the
working position of vibration of the needle-bar or needle-holder, in other words,
shifting laterally the working position of the vibratory action thereof, with or without
changing the amount of said action. My invention also consists in means for
automatically increasing, decreasing, reversing, or arresting the action of the feed
on ordinary reversible under-feed machines.
The nature of my invention will best be understood when described in connection
with the accompanying drawings, in which :-
Fig. represents a front elevation of a sewing machine embodying my invention.
Fig. 2 is a vertical section on the line 2-2, fig. 1.
Fig. 3 is an end elevation with the hand wheel removed.
Fig: 4 is a longitudinal section on the line 4-4, fig. 3, part of the machine head
being broken away and part of the mechanisin being omitted.
Figs. 5 to 8 are detail views of the feed-dog.
Figs. 9 to 11 are detail views of the presser-foot.
Fig. 12 is a front view illustrating a mechanism for driving the cain shaft differing
in several respects from that shown in Figs. 1-4.
Fig. 13 is an end view of Fig. 12.
Fig. 14 is a face view illustrating the construction of the ratchet wheels and
sectors for operating the cam shaft.
Fig. 15 is a section on the line 15-15, fig. 14, drawn on an enlarged scale.
Figs. 16 to 26 are detail views, on the same scale as Fig. 15 of the several parts
shown in said figure.
Fig. 27 is an end elevation of thema chine with part of the mechanism omitted and
illustrating the plates to which part of the mechanism is attached.
Fig. 28 is a face view of one of said plates.
Figs. 29, 30 and 31 illustrate details of construction.
Figure 32 is an enlarged elevation of the right hand portion of the machine.
Similar letters and numerals of reference designate corresponding parts throughout
the several views of the drawings.
Referring to the drawings, the letter A designates the head of the sewing machine,
B the hand wheel, C the main shaft, D the needle-bar, and E the segment lever

page_text: from which the needle-bar is literally vibrated. In the usual zig-zag machines the
needle-bar is guided in a pivoted gate or frame F, and to said gate or frame a
vibratory motion is imparted from the segment lever E by a link connection. The
extent of the throw of the stitch is changed by shifting the end of the link in the
seat of the segment lever E. By this mechanism, a lateral throw in opposite
directions is imparted to the needle-bar, which throw, in connection with the feed,
then forms a zig-zag stitch. To effect automatically a change in the working position
of vibration of the needle-bar, I substitute for the ordinary solid link connection
between the needle-bar and the segment lever, a jointed connection G used
substantially as a toggle-joint, having one end attached to the needle-bar gate or
frame and the other to the segment lever E by a thumb screw adjustably fitted to
a seat a¹ formed in said segment lever (Figs. 1 and 30). If the segment lever E
is vibrated, the needle-bar is vibrated laterally through the inedium of the connection G,
but if the angle of the connection is changed by raising or lowering its toggle-
joint, the working position of vibration of the needle-bar is correspondingly changed,
thereby moving the location of the stitch laterally, while the zig-zag character thereof
is retained..
For automatically effecting the said lateral change in the working position of
vibration of the needle-bar, the following mechanism may be employed.
A pattern-cam 1, driven in the manner hereinafter explained, engages a roller-stud 2
mounted on a slide 3 guided to move vertically by slots formed therein, through
which slots are passed studs 4, secured respectively to the top and bottom of a plate 5
attached to the machine head A. The upper end of the slide 3 is connected by a
lever 6 and link 7 with the toggle-joint 8 of the connection G. The fulcrum of the
lever 6 is made in the form of a bolt 6 passing through a slot g¹ in a bracket g
secured to the head of the machine and passing also through a slot 10 in said lever.
On said bolt is a sleeve 92, about which the lever can turn. A thumb nut b¹
threaded to the bolt permits the same to be secured in any position in the slot (figs. 1
and 31), whereby the fulcrum of the lever may be changed to alter the latter's action
on the joint 8. If the fulcrum b is moved to the left the distance through which the
needle-bar is bodily moved laterally by the action of the pattern-cam is less, and
vice versa.
A spring 11 connected with the lower end of slide 3 and the bed of the
machine, holds the roller-stud 2 of the said slide 3 against the pattern-cam 1. It
will be seen that the working position of the needle-bar will be laterally changed
automatically under the influence of the pattern-cam 1 when said cam is actuated.
The end of the toggle-joint actuating lever 6 is secured to the slide 3 by a
connection d attached to the upper end of said slide by screws passing through a slot,
as shown in Figs 1, 2 and 3, so that the position of the end of said lever can be
adjusted vertically with respect to said slide. The effect of this adjustment is to
change the centre past which the toggle-joint 8 moves, and consequently the centre of
the working position of vibration of the needle-bar. The lever 6 is provided with
two laterally projecting pins 6' engaging with the outer curved edges of the bracket g
whereby said lever is prevented from being shifted in the direction of its length.
On the toggle-joint connection G (figs. 1 and 29) is mounted a slotted sliding strap c
held to one member of said joint by a suitable screw passing through said slot. The
adjacent ends of the members of the toggle connection are depressed to countersink
the joint 8, so that the strap can be slid forward to engage with both members of the
toggle-joint, thereby causing the toggle connection to act as a solid connecting rod.
The mechanism so far described will enable machine to sew automatically with a
zig-zag stitch in different angles or curves and with a constant lateral throw or
vibration of the needle-bar. If the extent of the lateral throw or vibration
of the needle-bar is to be changed, the. segment lever end of the toggle
joint connection G is shifted on the segment lever E, either by hand, or automatically
by a suitable mechanism. For the purpose of shifting automatically the aforesaid
segment lever end of the toggle-joint connection on said seginent lever. I preferably
employ a mechanism consisting of a pattern cam 12 (figs. 1 and 2), which engages
the roller stud 40 of a slide 13 guided on the plate 5 by the slots and the studs 4

page_text: (fig. 2), and connected at its upper end to a lever 14. The free end of this lever
is slotted, or bifurcated, and embraces a sleeve a² on the shank of the thumb-screw
a (fig. 30). A spring 42 connected with slide 13 and the bed of the machine holds
the roller-stud of said slide 13 against the pattern-cam 12. By choosing the proper
shape for the pattern-cam 12, it is evident that the extent of the lateral throw of the
needle-bar, and consequently the length of the stitch, can be automatically increased
or decreased. The connection between the slide 13 and the lever 14 is made by means
of a bracket, the horizontal member of which is connected to the lever 14 by a slot and
stud 13*, while the vertical member is connected to the slide 13 by a slot and screws
13**, as shown in Figs. 1 and 2, so that the position of the end of the lever can be
adjusted vertically with respect to said slide.
The mechanisms above described control automatically the lateral movements of
the needle-bar solely, and by means of the same, a great variety of stitches can be
automatically produced. To further increase the variety of stitches which may be
produced automatically, and also to adapt the machine for automatically stitching
button-holes, or making tacks or bars, I have provided means for automatically
increasing, decreasing, reversing and stopping the feed action.
To this end I operate directly upon the usual stitch or feed regulating lever H,
and preferably by the use of the following mechanism.
On the shaft 20 (figs. 1, 2 and 15) is mounted a pattern-cam 15 which engages
with the roller-stud 16 of a slide 17, the lower end of which is made in the form of
a rack-bar and placed in engagement with a toothed sector 18 attached to the hub
of the stitch regulating lever H. A spring 41 connected with aforesaid slide 17 and
the bed of the machine holds the roller stud of said slide against the pattern cam.
The reciprocation of the said slide induced by the pattern cam, varies the length
of the stitch, reverses the direction of the stitching whenever the stitch or feed
regulating lever passes the centre line of its motion or action and entirely stops the
action of the feed upon the work when the stitch regulating lever is held at the
centre line of its motion or action. The roller stud 16 is adjustably mounted on
the slide 17 by means of a carriage 17* carrying said roller stud and adjustably
mounted on said slide by a slot and screw connection 181. The several pattern-cams
used are preferably so secured as to be readily interchangeable so that by substituting
different pattern-cams, a different motion, or change of motion, may be imparted
either to the feel or to the lateral movements of the needle-bar, or to both.
To render the above clearer, it may be here stated that the stitch or feed regulating
lever of the Wheeler & Wilson machine (to which machine my present invention
is applied) is so adjustable as to make all of its actions either above or below the
centre of the stitch regulating action, or on both sides of said centre line of action.
When the lever is thrown below the centre line of action, the feed carries the work
from the operator, and when said lever is thrown above said line, the feed is
reversed and the work fed towards the operator. It will be noticed that the slide 17
is in operative connection with the regulating lever H and that by shifting the
adjustable roller stud 16 on said slide, the centre line of action of the lever His
shifted so as to cause the machine to feed the same amount backwards and forward
or more one way than the other. This action can be indefinitely varied. It will
also be seen that by adjusting the usual stop 8.(fig. 3) to limit the downward
movement of the lever H so as to prevent the roller stud from entirely following
the cam, the amount of action that the cam will have on the lever H will be varied.
For example, the work can be fed backward and forward at different rates of speed
automatically, or it may be fed faster by taking longer stitches in one direction than
in the other; or the same length of stitches may be taken with a longer feed period
in one direction than in the other; or the length of stitches may be automatically
increased or decreased as may be predetermined. By raising the roller-stud 16 the
centre-line of action of lever H is lowered..
The several cams are, in the present instance, shown mounted on a common shaft 20,
which can be rotated from the main shaft C of the machine, by intermediate
ransmitting mechanism of any suitable construction. In the present instance, I

page_text: have shown a gear wheel 21 secured to the main shaft and meshing into a larger gear
wheel 22 provided with an adjustable crank-pin 23, which engages with the slotted
end of a pawl-lever 24. The pawl 25 of said lever engages a ratchet wheel 26 rigidly
mounted on the cam shaft 20. By adjusting the position of the crank-pin, the
number of teeth which the feed-pawl 25 takes up at each stroke can be varied and
consequently the extent of the throw of the ratchet-wheel can be increased or
decreased. The plate 5 is secured to the head of the machine by means of two
studs 19 and 27 aud in front of the same is mounted to turn about the stud 19, a
plate 28 which latter carries the stud forming the journal for the gear wheel 22.
Plate 28 can swing about stud 19 and can be fixed by means of the screw 27. By
throwing the plate outwardly, gear 22 is disengaged from gear 21 and the machine
runs as a simple zig-zag machine. In view of the adjustability of the plate 28, a
larger or smaller gear can be substituted for the purpose of obtaining a different rate
of speed.
To obtain a steady and reliable feed in both directions, I slant part of the teeth of
the feed-dog L in in one direction and part in the reverse direction, as shown in
figs. 5, 6, 7 and 8, and for the purpose of carrying and guiding the work
automatically in either direction, I make use of a sliding presser-foot, which is also
constructed to hold the work down all around the button-hole. This construction for
the presser-foot I have illustrated in figs. 9, 10 and 11. As shown in these figs. the
foot consists of a presser-shoe 29 provided with a central opening 30 and with suitable
teeth on its lower side, the teeth preferably slanting in neither direction. The shoe is
provided with slotted sides 31 engaged by small roller studs 32 carried by the
shank 33 of the presser-foot, which latter is secured in the slotted end of the presser-
bar N as usual. As the machine feeds the work along, the pressure-shoe is carried
with the work in either direction by reason of the roughened or toothed surface of
the presser shoe 29 and holds the work firmly on the feed points of the feed dog.
For the purpose of enabling long ranges of stitches in either direction, quick or
slow changes and reversals to be accomplished, and to provide for rests or stops in
the motion of the pattern-cams, I preferably use the driving mechanism for the
pattern-cams illustrated in figs. 12 to 26, in place of the one previously described.
In this mechanism the driving ratchet wheel 35 is operated by pawl lever 24, as
before, but it is provided with diametrically opposite gaps 36. Beside this ratchet-
wheel is arrranged a second smaller ratchet-wheel 37 loosely mounted on a bearing
projecting from the plate 5, through which bearing the cam shaft 20 passes. This
ratchet-wheel 37 is provided on the side adjacent to the ratchet-wheel 35 with a
circular groove 38 leaving a short transverse neck or projection 39. In the ratchet
wheel 35 is formed a series of openings 43, through which can be passed a screw 44
adapted to enter the circular groove 38 in the wheel 37. On the cam shaft 20 are
journaled two sectors 45 provided each with a notch 46, a toothed portion 47, and a
projection 48. The teeth in the portions 47 are arranged coincident with those on
the ratchet wheel 35; the notches 46 are sufficiently deep to expose the teeth on
ratchet wheels 35 and 37, while the projections 48 cover the teeth of wheel 37 only.
The sectors 45 can be set circularly by means of the pin and slot connections 49.
Suitable holding pawls are provided to prevent retrograde motion of the ratchet
wheels. The toothed portions 47 of the sectors can be set to bridge the gaps 36 in
the wheel 35, or they may be set to partly bridge the same. The sectors 45 being
circularly adjustable they can be so placed that the notches 46 expose one or more teeth
of the smaller ratchet wheel 37, while the remaining portions of the notches are covered
by the projections 48. The number of teeth exposed will determine the extent of
movement of the smaller ratchet wheel 37, and the period of rest of the pattern-cam,
for the reason that when the feed pawl reaches the notches, it will, at each stroke,
feed only the number of teeth exposed on said wheel 37. This rotation of the smaller
wheel'37 is independent of the number of teeth fed at each stroke on the larger wheel.
To illustrate if both a long period of rest and quick motion of the pattern-cams are
desired, the number of teeth exposed on the smaller ratchet-wheel is made small and the
stroke of the feed pawl is made long, so as take a large number of teeth on the larger

page_text: ratchet wheel. Assuming the case that the pawl-lever 24, the pawl 25 of which extends
across both ratchet wheels 35 and 37, is set to turn the fast ratchet wheel 35 through
three teeth at each stroke, and that the sectors 45 are each set to expose two teeth
on the loose ratchet wheel 37, then the pawl 25 will feed the ratchet wheel 35
through three teeth at each stroke until one of the notches 36 is reached,
whereupon motion of the ratchet wheel 35, and consequently that of the cam shaft 20,
stops and the loose ratchet wheel 37 is now turned through two teeth for each stroke
of the pawl, but said wheel 37 being loose on a bearing projecting from the plate 5,
its rotation has no effect on the pattern cams. When the neck or projection 39 of
ratchet wheel 37 reaches the screw 44 in the ratchet wheel 35, it carries said screw,
and consequently the fast ratchet wheel 35, with it until the teeth on said ratchet
wheel are brought into a position to be again engaged by the feed pawl 25. The
wheel 35 is then driven by the feed pawl to the same extent and at its former rate
of speed and turns the pattern-cams as before. The loose ratchet whee] 37 now
remains stationary (the pawl 25 being lifted from the same as the fast ratchet wheel
is larger in diameter than the loose ratchet wheel), until the screw 44 in the fast
ratchet wheel 35 again engages with the projection 39 of the loose ratchet wheel, or
until one of the notches 36 is reached. When the second notch 36 in the ratchet.
wheel 35 is brought opposite to the feedpawl, said ratchet wheel again ceases to
turn and remains motionless until the projection 39 again engages the screw 44 as
before described. Of course, if but one notch 36 is uncovered, the ratchet wheel 35
will make one complete revolution before it comes to rest, and it is also to be
understood that by placing the screw 44 into different holes or by using two such
screws, the time during which the pattern-cams are at rest, can be varied.
Furthermore, different periods of rest and different speeds of motion for the ratchet
wheel 35 and the cams controlled thereby, can be obtained by exposing more or less
teeth on the wheel 37, and by changing the stroke of the pawl-lever 24, and
consequently the pattern cams 1, 12, and 15, can be made to actuate the feed, change
the stitch, and control the lateral position of the needle-bar, at different times and
for predetermined periods.
It will be readily understood that the driving mechanism just described differs
from that illustrated in figs. 1 to 4 in this respect, that it enables the feed-pawl to
act upon a loose or idle ratchet-wheel for different periods of time, so that the
cams remain at rest for different pre-determined periods of time, whereby the variety
of stitches that can be produced by the cains is greatly increased.
To explain the workings of the machine more fully, let it be assumed that the
pattern-cam 1 which operates the toggle-joint actuating lever 6 is heart-shaped or
constructed to give a constant uniform reciprocating movement to the slide 3, and
that the toggle-joint is connected at one end with the needle bar, while its other
end is fixed or stationary, that is to say, held from moving longitudinally. The
toggle-joint can be set in this manner by shifting the end thereof on the segment
lever E until said end is brought in line with the pivot or shaft about which the
segment lever oscillates. If the cam shaft 20 is rotated, a limited progressive lateral
movement is imparted to the needle-bar due to the movements of the toggle-joint.
If the feed is thrown out, the result will be a lateral line of ordinary stitching over
the path that the needle travels and, as the cam continues to turn, the needle will
continue to stitch laterally to and fro over the same path, thereby piling the rows of
stitching one upon the other and forming a kind of tack or bar. As the vertical
reciprocations of the needle-bar are uniform with respect to the rotations of the driving
shaft of the machine, it will be understood that when I increase the throw of the cam, I
increase the throw of the toggle-joint actuating lever 6 and the length of the lateral
stitches with or without changing the length of the line or bar; and as I change the
adjustable fulcrum b of the toggle-joint actuating lever 6, I increase or decrease the
length of the bar or lateral line of stitching with or without changing the length of
the stitches. By changing the throw of the cam the proper amount to correspond with
the change of fulcrum, the saine length of stitch can be retained; or in other words,
if the length of the lateral line of stitching is to be increased, the fulcrum of the

page_text: toggle-joint actuating lever 6 must be changed so as to increase the amount of action
it will have on the toggle-joint and if the length of the lateral stitches is to be retained
the throw of the cam must be decreased so as to offset the change of fulcrum and
allow the needle to make more stitches. The machine under these conditions is
suitable for certain kinds of tacking without the use of any feed action.
As a
practical illustration let it be assumed that the needle makes six complete vertical
reciprocations while the toggle-joint moves from its lowest to its central horizontal
position, then the needle will move from right to left making a line of six stitches,
and as the toggle-joint returns from its central to its lowest position the needle moves
from left to right making a line of six stitches over the first line of stitches. The
length of the stitches can be varied as before described.
If now the feed mechanism is thrown into regular uniform action, it feeds the
work along transversely to the lateral stitching of the needle, and the line of the
path of stitching is changed so as to form automatically uniform angles or curves
of stitching. If the length of stitch, or the throw of the feed is increased or
decreased, the length and curves of aforementioned angles of the stitch and the line
of stitching will be changed; or if the throw of the cam 1 is increased, the angles or
curves of the line of stitching and the stitches will be changed and also the number
of angles or
curves will be increased, and vice versa. The feed regulator H, as
before described, controls the feed so as to cause the work to be fed from the
operator when moved below its central position, and toward the operator when moved
above its central position.
Assuming that the feed regulator H is in its central position, and the roller-stud 16
is adjusted towards the top of the slide 17, spring 41 is permitted to pull the said
slide down, and as the feed regulator H is in operative connection with said slide, the
said regulator will be moved below its central position, and if a sufficient change is
made in the adjustment of the roller-stud, all the feed will be in one direction, that is,
from the operator, and the action of cam 15 will gradually increase and decrease the
length of stitches for a predetermined number of stitches. The throw of the cam will
determine the amount which the stitches will be increased and decreased or the number
of the stitches made, while a complete variation or action of the cam has taken place.
To partly explain the use of the sectors 45, suppose for example that it is desired to
sew a hundred stitches in one direction without any variation in the stitch and then
have the feed shorten the length of the stitch or reverse. To accomplish this one of
the gaps in the periphery of the driving ratchet-wheel is opened and the sector
so adjusted as to take one hundred strokes of the actuating pawl to turn the loose
ratchet-wheel enough to bring the neck 39 of the same into contact with the
projection 44 on the driving ratchet-wheel, whereupon the loose ratchet wheel turns
aforesaid ratchet-wheel into engagement with the actuating pawl and thereby starts
the cams turning. Cam 15 is so adjusted on the cam shaft and the roller stud so
adjusted on the slide 17 that when the actuating pawl is operating the loose
ratchet-wheel, the work will be moving from the operator at the desired length of
stitch. Now, when the actuating pawl reaches the gap in the periphery of the
larger ratchet-wheel, the machine will feed the work for one hundred stitches from
the operator, that is, while the actuating pawl is driving the loose ratchet-wheel, and
when said loose ratchet-wheel turns the driving ratchet-wheel into engagement with
the actuating pawl, reversible or changing action will commence and continue until
the change or variation in the stitches has been completed and another or the same
gap in the periphery of the larger ratchet wheel has been reached, whereupon can
action will be again suspended. If a certain number of stitches is to be made while
the cam is turning in making the reverse or variation stitch, say for example, twenty
stitches, it can be accomplished by adjusting the crank-pin 23 on the side of the
gear wheel 22 so as to make the pawl lever 24 turn the larger ratchet-wheel around
while the machine is making twenty stitches, and if it is still desired to retain the
one hundred straight away stitches, the segments on the driving ratchet-wheel are
so adjusted as to allow the actuating pawl to only take the same number of teeth
as before on the loose ratchet wheel. This is done by adjusting the sector

page_text: so that the smooth part 48 on the same, will cover the teeth on the loose'
ratchet wheel, so as to only allow the actuating pawl to take the same number
of teeth as before on said loose ratchet wheel, which will be done at the latter
part of its stroke. As there are two circularly adjustable projections 44 on the side
of the driving ratchet wheel, by having the neck 39 on the smaller ratchet wheel
work in between these two projections, I can fully control the length of time that the
actuating pawl will feed on the loose ratchet-wheel, and I can further control this so
as to feed the loose ratchet-wheel slow and the driving ratchet wheel fast, by using
the smooth part on the periphery of the sectors. If, for example, it is desired to feed
the loose wheel one tooth at each stroke of the actuating pawl until it has turned
completely around, and the driving ratchet wheel five teeth at each stroke until it has
made a complete turn, I adjust the crank-pin on the side of the gear wheel so as to
make the actuating pawl take five teeth at a stroke, and adjust circularly the
adjustable projections 44 so that they are alongside of each other and operate
substantially as one projection; I then open one of the gaps and adjust the
corresponding sector so that the smooth part on the periphery of said sector
will only expose one tooth of the loose ratchet wheel. Thus, from the above, it
will be seen that I have control of the cams
so that can stop them for a
predetermined number of stitches and actuate them at a predetermined rate of
speed and for a predetermined number of stitches. The amount of action that
cam 15 will have on the feed mechanism of the machine can also be regulated
as follows; say, for example, it is desired to stitch backwards and forwards and
make a certain length of stitch in either direction. As the feed regulating
lever H is raised above the centre of action, the work will feed towards the
operator, and as it is turned below the centre of action, the work feeds from the
operator. By adjusting the stop s on the lever H, I limit the downward
movement of said lever, and by raising the roller on slide 17, I limit the
upward action of the cams on the slide, and consequently the upward movement
of the regulating lever H.
The extent of the lateral throw of the needle can be increased or decreased by
shifting the fulcrum b of the toggle-joint actuating lever 6, as before described. The
extent of the lateral throw of the needle can also be varied by the use of a properly
formed actuating cam. If I now bring the end of the toggle-joint connection in a
position to be influenced by the vibrations of the segment lever, the needle-bar is
vibrated or moved laterally through the toggle-joint connection from two distinct
sources or cams, as I already have the needle-bar vibrated laterally through the
toggle-joint actuating lever and cam. Now loosen segment lever end of the toggle-
joint connection on the vibrating segment lever so that it will slide and connect the
same with the actuating lever 14, it being understood that the slide 13 is in
connection with cain 12. As before stated, the end of the lever 14 can be adjusted
vertically with respect to slide 13, and therefore, by changing the position of the end
of lever 14 with respect to the slide 13, the working position of the segnent lever
end of the toggle joint connection G is accordingly shifted with respect to the axis
of vibration of the segment lever.
From the above explanation it will be seen that, by using the proper pattern cams,
I can stitch backwards and forwards and then zigzag across this straight line of
stitching, thereby forming a different kind of a bar or tack from the one before
explained; it will also be seen that button-holes can be made by overstitching one
side and then automatically pushing the needle-bar laterally to and fro for the
tacking or barring desired at the end of the button-hole, and then reversing the feed
action which will feed the work back for the other side of the hole, and then again
automatically pushing the needle-bar laterally to and fro to complete or bar the
other end of the button-hole.
.
While I have herein described my invention as applied to a Wheeler & Wilson
zigzag sewing machine, it is evident, that it can be equally well applied to other
forins, and may be applied to a number of stitch forming mechanisms to simultaneously
produce a number of stitches, button-holes, or designs.

page_text: I wish it to be distinctly understood that 1 do not confine myself to the use of the
particular mechanisms and devices herein shown and described for accomplishing the
several objects in view, as it is evident that their mechanical equivalents may be
substituted without departing from the spirit. of my invention. Furthermore it is
very evident that the force for actuating the various devices and mechanisms may be
derived from the lower shaft of the machine, or from any other moving part of the
same, such for instance as the vibrating segment E, instead of from the main shaft of
the machine as herein described. It is also to be understood that part of the
mechanisms may be driven from one source of power and part from another source.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
1. The combination with a sewing machine having a needle-bar, mechanisın
_constructed to vertically reciprocate and laterally vibrate the said needle-bar, and
complemental stitch forming mechanism, of means constructed to automatically move
laterally the working position of the lateral vibration of said needle-bar, substantially
as described.
2. The combination with a sewing machine having a needle-bar, mechanism
constructed to vertically reciprocate and laterally vibrate the said needle-bar, and
complemental stitch forming mechanism, of means constructed to automatically
move laterally the working position of the lateral vibration of said needle-bar, and
means for automatically varying the extent of the throw of aforesaid lateral
vibrations of the needle-bar, substantially as described.
3. The combination with a sewing machine having a needle-bar, mechanism
constructed to vertically reciprocate and laterally vibrate the said needle-bar, and
complemental stitch forming mechanism; of means constructed to automatically
move laterally the working position of the lateral vibration of said needle-bar, and
means adapted to automatically vary the number of said lateral movements of the
working position of said needle-bar, substantially as described.
4. The combination with a sewing machine having a needle-bar, imechanism
constructed to vertically reciprocate and laterally vibrate the said needle-bar, and
complemental stitch forming mechanism, of means constructed to automatically move
laterally the working position of the lateral vibration of said needle-bar, and means
constructed to vary the extent of said lateral movements of the working position
of the needle-bar, substantially as described.
5. The combination with a sewing-machine having a needle-bar, mechanism
constructed to vertically reciprocate and laterally vibrate the said needle-bar, and
complemental stitch forining nechanism, of means constructed to automatically move
laterally the working position of the lateral vibration of said needle-bar, and means
constructed to automatically vary the extent and the number of said lateral
movements of the working position of the needle-bar, substantially as described.
6. The combination with a sewing machine having a needle-bar, mechanism
constructed to vertically reciprocate and laterally vibrate the said needle-bar, and
complemental stitch forming mechanism, of means constructed to automatically
'move laterally the working position of the lateral vibration of said needle-bar, and
means constructed to automatically vary the extent of aforesaid lateral vibrations
and to automatically vary the extent and the number of aforesaid lateral movements
or the working position of the needle-bar, substantially as described.
7. The combination with a sewing machine having a needle-bar, means for
vertically reciprocating the same, complemental stitch forming mechanisni, a cam,
and operative means between the cam and the needle-bar for vibrating the latter
laterally, of means constructed to automatically move laterally the working position
of the lateral vibration of said needle-bar, substantially as described.
8. The combination with a sewing machine having a needle-bar, means for
vertically reciprocating the same, a complemental stitch forming mechanism, a cam,
and operative means between the cam and the needle-bar for vibrating the latter

page_text: laterally, of an actuating pattern-cam, and operative means between said pattern-cam
and the needle-bar constructed to automatically move laterally the working position
of the lateral vibration of said needle-bar, substantially as described.
9. The combination with a sewing machine having a needle-bar, mechanism con-
structed to vertically reciprocate and laterally vibrate the said needle-bar, and
complemental stitch forming mechanism, of means constructed to automatically move
laterally the working position of the lateral vibration of said needle-bar, a feed
mechanism, and means for automatically increasing or decreasing the extent of the
throw of the feed, substantially as described.
10. The combination with a sewing machine having a needle-bar, mechanism
constructed to vertically reciprocate and laterally vibrate the said needle-bar, and
complemental stitch forming mechanism, of means constructed to automatically move
laterally the working position of the lateral vibration of said needle-bar, a reversible
feed mechanism, and means for reversing the feed mechanism and for changing the
extent of movement of the feed mechanism on reversal, substantially as described.
11. The combination with a sewing machine having a needle-bar, mechanism
constructed to vertically reciprocate and laterally vibrate the said needle-bar, and a
complemental stitch forming mechanism, of means constructed to automatically move.
laterally the working position of the lateral vibration of said needle-bar, a reversible
feed mechanism, and means for automatically increasing, decreasing and reversing, for
a predetermined number of stitches in one direction and a predetermined number
of stitches in the opposite direction, aforesaid feed mechanism, substantially as
described.
12. In a sewing machine, the combination of a vertically reciprocating and
laterally movable needle-bar, a vibratory segment lever, a toggle-joint connection
between said vibratory segment lever and aforesaid .needle-bar, a second lever
adjustable on its fulcrum and placed in operative connection with aforementioned
toggle-joint, and means for actuating said second lever, substantially as described.
13. In a sewing machine, the combination of a vertically reciprocating and
laterally movable needle-bar, a vibratory segment lever, a toggle-joint connection
between said vibratory segment lever and aforesaid needle-bar, a second lever
adjustable on its fulcrum and placed in operative connection with afore-mentioned
toggle-joint, a pattern-cam in operative connection with said second lever, and means
for actuating said pattern cam, substantially as decribed.
14. In a sewing machine, the combination of a vertically reciprocating and
laterally movable needle-bar, a vibratory segment lever, a toggle-joint connection
between said vibratory segment lever and aforesaid novable. needle-bar, a second
lever adjustable on its fulcrum and placed in operative connection with afore-
mentioned toggle-joint, a pattern-cam in operative connection with said second lever,
a ratchet-wheel in operative connection with said pattern-cam, an adjustable pawl
lever for operating said ratchet wheel, and an operative connection between the
driving shaft of the machine and said adjustable pawl lever, substantially as
described.
15. In a sewing machine, the combination of a vertically reciprocating and laterally
movable needle-bar, a vibratory segment lever, a toggle-joint connection between
said needle-bar and aforesaid vibratory segment lever, a gear wheel driven by the
main shaft of the machine, an adjustable crank-pin on the side of said gear wheel, a
lever in operative connection with said adjustable crank pin, a pawl on said lever,
a ratchet-wheel engaged by said pawl, a cam circularly adjustable on the ratchet-wheel
shaft, and an operative adjustable connection between said cam and aforesaid
toggle-joint, substantially as described.
16. In a sewing machine, the combination of a vertically reciprocating and laterally
movable needle-bar, a vibratory segment lever, a toggle-joint connection between said
vibratory segment lever and aforesaid needle-bar, a ratchet-wheel mounted to turn
loosely on a bearing, a second ratchet-wheel placed at the side of the first
ratchet-wheel and fastened on a shaft running through the bearing on which the
first ratchet-wheel is mounted, an adjustable pawl lever in operative connection with

page_text: the driving shaft of 'the machine, a pawl on said lever, means constructed to cause
said pawl to engage the ratchet-wheels intermittently and alternately for a
predetermined number of strokes, a pattern-cam mounted on same shaft with the
second ratchet-wheel, and an adjustable operative connection between said cam
and the toggle-joint, substantially as described.
17. In a sewing machine, the combination of a vertically reciprocating and laterally
movable needle-bar, a vibratory segment lever, a toggle-joint connection between
said vibratory segment lever and the needle-bar, two ratchet-wheels of different
diameters, the smaller one being loosely mounted and the larger one being adjacent
to the smaller and fastened on a shaft, means whereby said ratchet-wheels are caused
to intermittently engage with each other, an actuating pawl for engaging said
rachet-wheels, a pattern-cam mounted on the same shaft with the larger
ratchet-wheel, one or more gaps in the periphery of aforesaid larger ratchet-wheel
constructed to permit aforesaid actuating pawl to engage intermittently and
alternately with said ratchet-wheels, an adjustable lever connection between the
toggle-joint and the pattern-cam, and adjustable means for closing the aforesaid gaps
in the periphery of the larger ratchet-wheel so as to cause a continuous feed of said
ratchet-wheel by the actuating pawl, substantially as described.
Dated this 14th day of September 1897
HARRIS & MILLS,
23 Southampton Buildings, London, W.C. Agents.