IMPROVEMENTS IN PLAITED FABRICS FOR SHIRT FRONTS AND OTHER USES, AND IN THE MODE OF AND MECHANISM FOR MANUFACTURING THE SAME
Year: 1862

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Thomas Fawcett, junior, of Lisburn, in Ireland, for
the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN PLAITED FABRICS FOR SHIRT FRONTS
AND OTHER USES, AND IN THE MODE OF AND MECHANISM FOR MANUFACTURING
THE SAME."
Scaled the 4th November 1862, and dated the 9th May 1862.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Thomas Fawcett, at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 9th
May 1862.
I, THOMAS FAWCETT, junior, of Lisburn, in Ireland, do hereby declare the
nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN PLAITED FABRICS FOR
SHIRT FRONTS AND OTHER USES, AND IN THE MODE OF AND MECHANISM FOR MANU-
FACTURING THE SAME," to be as follows:-
Instead of the rough uneven fabrics hitherto produced for shirt fronts and
other plaited articles of the same character, I produce a smooth even fabric
which counts the same quantity of warp throughout, and the cloth has a
uniform appearance, costs much less, and is well adapted for its purpose, by
means of the following or other arrangements, for instance:-I use two beams
of warp, but the under one contains a very small proportion to the upper, in
fact it is only used as thread to fasten the plaits or folds together, and is
nowhere woven into the cloth, except under the plait, and where the cloth
appears to the eye, the under warp is left entirely out and clipped off when the
web comes out of the loom. In producing the cloth I use what may be

page_text: termed doups or half heddles, which, when I require to fasten a plait, I use
the same to twist the warp threads round each other, so as to hold the cloth
firmly together when the under threads are clipped off. Only two threads of
warp are in the split of the reed, except where the under threads are used,
also two in the splits to fasten the cloth together, thus giving uniform appear-
ance, and reducing the cost. In making the plain cloth I use the treddles,
and work the same by the foot, as ordinarily practised in hand loom weaving,
and the doups or half heddles when required to make the plait or fold are
worked by their corresponding treddles, so as to twist the thread into one
edge of the plait. The plain treddles are then resorted to until sufficient cloth
has been woven that when doubled up will form the plait as required, when
the treddles are again resorted to, in order to fasten the thread slightly into
the other edge of the cloth. The beam is then slacked so as to permit the
cloth to be doubled up, after which it is further fastened with the proper
treddles, the under or thread beam is then thrown out where the cloth is to
be seen, so as to leave the plaited and plain cloth of the same appearance and
make throughout. The threads may be clipped off when the cloth comes out
of the loom, but I prefer leaving them on till after they are bleached. Instead
of using, as on the old plans, two beams of yarn working three in the split of
the reed, one beam containing two-thirds more yarn than the other, pro-
ducing a dear and coarse looking article, I use just sufficient yarn on the
under or thread beam to sew the plaits. or folds together, fastening it firmly
into the doups, then leaving it out where not required, and am enabled to
produce an article cheaper and better altogether. Not only shirt fronts but
petticoats and other articles can be made in this way.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Thomas Fawcett in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 7th
November 1862.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, THOMAS
FAWCETT, junior, of Lisburn, in Ireland, send greeting.
WHEREAS. Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Ninth day of May, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-two, in the twenty-fifth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me,
the said Thomas Fawcett, junior, Her special licence that I, the said Thomas
Fawcett, junior, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as

page_text: I, the said Thomas Fawcett, junior, my executors, administrators, and assigns,
should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all
times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully
might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention
for "IMPROVEMENTS IN PLAITED FABRICS FOR SHIRT FRONTS AND OTHER USES, AND
IN THE MODE OF AND MECHANISM FOR MANUFACTURING THE SAME," upon the con-
dition (amongst others) that I, the said Thomas Fawcett, junior, my execu-
tors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or
one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the
nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be per-
formed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office
within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said
Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Thomas Fawcett, junior, do hereby
declare the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same
is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement :-
The nature of my said Invention consists, firstly, in improvements in shirt
fronts and other plaited fabrics by producing instead of the rough uneven
fabrics hitherto produced for shirt fronts and other plaited articles of the same
character, a smooth and even fabric containing however the same quantity of
warp in the parts intended to be exhibited when in wear, giving the cloth a
better and more uniform appearance, costing much less, and being much
better adapted for its purpose than fabrics made according to the methods
heretofore practised. And this improved plaited fabric can be manufactured
by the use of the mechanical arrangements hereafter described, or by the use
other arrangements which will effect the object desired.
of any
Secondly, the mode of and mechanism for manufacturing plaited fabrics
whereby I am enabled to produce the said improved fabric, and which consist
in this Two beams of warp are used, the under one, however, containing
a very small proportion to the upper one, one-third of the amount of the warp
of the upper one being what I prefer to adopt, instead of the old plan of
using one-half the amount of warp of the upper beam, the warp of the under
beam being nowhere woven into the cloth except under the plaits. Where
the cloth is intended to be exhibited when in wear, the under warp is left out
and clipped off when the web comes out of the loom. Five treddles are
adopted, two thereof being used for fastening the warps together, two for
making the plain cloth for the plaits or folds, or otherwise, and one for sewing

page_text: or making the stitch which is to be exhibited in wear. The process of
weaving being. this:-For making the unplaited or unfolded parts of the
fabric the weaver uses the two treddles as above mentioned, and immediately
before producing the plait or fold the treddles which connect the warps
together are used for several throws of the shuttle until secure fastening is
effected. Then the stitching treddle is used to make the
proper stitch, which
is formed by so fastening the treddles connected with the upper beam of yarn
to the stitching treddle already mentioned, that two threads of the warp of the
upper beam in each alternate split of the reed are brought down by the
movement of the treddle whilst each alternate two are raised. It would,
however, be possible to use three threads in each split of the reed, dropping
or leaving out the warp in the same way as described. The thread being
passed through in an ordinary shuttle, and driven up by the sley, forms the
stitch, after which the two treddles for making the plain cloth are again
brought into use until a sufficient quantity of cloth is made to form the plait
when the treddles for fastening the warps together are again resorted to for
two throws of the shuttle. The upper beam of warp is then slacked so as to
allow the cloth which has been formed to be doubled up. The sley is now
brought into action to drive up the plait or fold on the threads of the under
beam, attaching the two edges of it together, so as to give it its proper form
and position in the fabric, it is then securely fastened by the same treddles,
the upper beam being again fastened in its place. Where it is necessary to
produce a fine cloth the under beam of warp yarn is left out, and not again
resorted to until necessary to form a plait, when it is again fastened as
formerly described, the loose under thread being clipped off when taken out of
the loom. Where necessary to produce a heavy fabric, as under the plaits,
both beams of yarn are used, whereby less weft is necessary.
For making
petticoats, childrens' dresses, and trimmings, the upper or other part desired
can in this way be made of a fine light material, whilst the plaited or folded
part although having outside a fine material, will be underneath of heavy,
strong, and durable character, and the petticoats and dresses can be woven in
tubular form by suitably arranging the loom for the same. In case it should
be considered necessary to fasten the warps more securely together than is
effected by the mode of and mechanism for manufacturing the same, as herein-
before described, doups or half heddles similar to those used in the weaving of
some cotton goods are adopted, these give a twist to the warp threads, causing
them to intertwist and hold together with still greater tenacity. If the Inven-
tion be applied to power looms it would be requisite to make the necessary
changes in the working of the loom.

page_text: Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said
Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I hereby declare
that I claim the improvements in plated fabrics set forth under the head,
firstly, as herein-before stated, and the herein described mode of and
mechanism for manufacturing the same, especially and as applied to all plaited
fabrics, the mode of stitching herein-before described, but otherwise I do not
claim the use of any portion of the mode or mechanism individually and
separately when not combined or used for the purpose of my said Invention.
In witness whereof, I, the said Thomas Fawcett, jun'., have hereunto
set my hand and seal, this First day of November, in the year of our
Lord 1862.
THOMAS FAWCETT, J. (L.S.)