IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF VELVET
Year: 1880

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Richard Scott Collinge, Edward Collinge, and Robert
Collinge, all of Oldham, in the County of Lancaster, for an Invention of
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF VELVET."
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Richard Scott Collinge,
Edward Collinge, and Robert Collinge at the Office of the Commissioners of
Patents on the 10th January 1880.
RICHARD SCOTT COLLINGE, EDWARD COLLINGE, and ROBERT COLLINGE, all of
Oldham, in the County of Lancaster. "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF
VELVET."
Our Invention relates principally to the manufacture of cotton velvets, but is
also applicable to velvets made of silk or silk and cotton, the object of the improve-
ments being to produce an improved face, and at the same time to bind the pile so
securely that it cannot become loose.
Our improved velvet can be made either with a ribbed back or with a twilled
back.
In the first case, for forming a ribbed back, we employ twelve ends and eight
picks to the round.
The first pick is a binder pick, and passes under one end, over two, under two,
over two, under two, over two, under one, and so on.
The second pick is a face pick, and passes under one, over one, under one, and
then floats over nine.
The third pick is a face pick, and passes over two, under one, over one,
and then floats over seven.
under one,
The fourth pick is also a face pick, and floats over four ends, then under one, over
one, under one, and floats over five.
The fifth pick is a binder, and passes over one, under two, over two, under two,
over two, under two, over one.
The sixth is a face pick, and floats over six, then under one, over one, under
one, and over three.
The seventh is a face pick, and floats over eight, then under one, over one, under
one, and over one.

page_text: The eighth and last pick is also a face pick, passing under one and floating over
nine, and then under one and over one.
This will make a fast pile velvet with a ribbed back, and may be woven with
eight shafts; the second, sixth, and tenth ends being drawn in one shaft, and the
fourth, eighth, and twelfth in another, and the remainder drawn in singly.
For weaving a fast pile velvet with a twilled back we weave with twelve ends
and fifteen picks.
The first, sixth, and eleventh picks are binders, and the remainder face picks.
The first pick passes under one, over one, under two, over one, under two, over
one, under two, over one, under one.
The second pick passes under one and floats over nine, then under one, over one.
The third pick passes under one, over one, under one, and floats over nine.
The fourth pick passes over two, under one, over one, under one, and floats over
seven.
The fifth pick floats over four, then under one, over one, under one, and floats
over five.
The sixth pick passes under two, over one, under two, over one, and repeats.
The seventh pick floats over six, then under oue, over one, under one, and floats
over three.
The eighth pick floats over eight, then under one, over one, under one, and
over onc.
The ninth pick is the same as the second.
The tenth pick the same as the third.
The eleventh passes over one, under two, and repeats.
The twelfth pick is the same as the fourthi.
The thirteenth pick the same as the fifth.
The fourteenth pick the same as the seventh; and
The fifteenth pick the same as the eighth.
This method of weaving produces a fast pile velvet with a twilled back, and may
be woven with nine shafts, the second and eighth ends being drawn-in together,
also the fourth and tenth together, and the sixth and twelfth together, the remainder
being drawn in singly.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said Richard Scott Collinge, Edward Collinge, and Robert Collinge in the
Great Seal Patent Office on the 9th July 1880.
RICHARD SCOTT COLLINGE, EDWARD COLLINGE, and ROBERT COLLINGE, all of
Oldham, in the County of Lancaster. "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF
VELVET."
Our Invention relates principally to the manufacture of cotton velvets, but is
also applicable to velveteens and to velvets made of silk, or silk and cotton, or
other mixture, the object of the improvements being to produce a firm back and
an improved face, and at the same time to make an erect pile, and bind the same
so securely that it cannot become loose.
Our improved velvet can be made either with a ribbed back or with a plain or
twilled back, as will be understood on reference to the annexed diagrams and the
following explanation thereof:-
In the first case, for forming a ribbed back, we employ twelve ends and eight picks
to the round (see diagram No. 1).
The first pick is a binder pick and passes under one end, over two, under two,
over two, under two, over two, under one, and so on.
The second pick is a face pick and passes under one, over one, under one, and
then floats over nine.
The third pick is a face pick and passes over two, under one, over one, under one,
and then floats over seven.
The fourth pick is also a face pick and floats over four ends, then under one, over
one, under one, and floats over five.
The fifth pick is a binder and passes over one, under two, over two, under two,
over two, under two, over one.
The sixth pick is a face pick and floats over six, then under one, over one, under
one, and over three.
The seventh is a face pick and floats over eight, then under one, over one, under
one, and over one.
The eighth and last pick is also a face pick passing under one, and floating over
nine, and then under one and over one.
This will make a fast and erect pile velvet with a ribbed back, and may be
woven with eight shafts, the second, sixth, and tenth ends being drawn in one shaft,
and the fourth, eighth, and twelfth in another, and the remainder drawn in singly,
as shown at diagram No. 2 which is the same as No. 1, but condensed for the
weaver's use.
•
Diagram No. 3 (and No. 4 the same condensed) shows a slight variation of No. 1,
the arrangement of the face picks being slightly broken.
Diagram No. 5 (and No. G the same condensed) is another slight modification of
the same in which the face twill runs in the reverse direction to No. 1; the cloth
however is very similar, and has a ribbed back.
Diagram No. 7 (and No. 8 the same condensed) is the same arrangement of face
picks as No. 1, the only difference being that the binder picks run over one, under
one, over one, under one, and so on which forms a plain back.
For weaving a fast pile velvet with a twilled back we weave with twelve ends
and fifteen picks (see diagram No. 9).
The first, sixth, and eleventh picks are binders, and the remainder face picks.
The first pick passes under one, over one, under two, over one, under two, over one,
under two, over one, under one.
The second pick passes under one and floats over nine, then under one, over one.
The third pick passes under one, over one, under one, and floats over nine. The
fourth pick passes over two, under one, over one, under one, and floats over seven.

page_text: The fifth pick floats over four, then under one, over one, under one, and floats
over five.
The sixth pick passes under two, over one, under two, over one, and repeats.
The seventh pick floats over six, then under one, over one, under one, and floats
over three.
The eighth pick floats over eight, then under one, over one, under one, and over
The ninth pick is the same as the second.
one.
The tenth pick the same as the third; the eleventh passes over one, under two,
and repeats; the twelfth pick is the same as the fourth; the thirteenth pick the
same as the fifth; the fourteenth pick the same as the seventh, and the fifteenth
pick the same as the eighth.
This method of weaving produces a fast and erect pile velvet with a twilled back,
and may be woven with nine shafts, the second and eighth ends being drawn in
together, also the fourth and tenth together, and the sixth and twelfth together,
the remainder being drawn in singly, as shown condensed at diagram No. 10.
Diagram No. 11 (and No. 12 the same condensed) shows a slight variation
of No. 9, the arrangement of the face picks being broken in a manner similar to
No. 3.
It will of course be evident to any practical weaver that the same cloths may
be woven with double, treble, or other repititions, that is to say, Nos. 1. 3, 5, and 7,
may be repeated so as to be woven with sixteen, twenty-four, or other number of
picks to the round, instead of eight only, and Nos. 9 and 11 with thirty, forty five,
and so forth, instead of fifteen picks.
Having now described the nature and object of our said Invention, together with
the manner in which the same is to be or may be performed or carried into practical
effect, we wish it to be understood that we claim as our Invention, the manufacture
or weaving of fast pile velvets with either ribbed, plain, or twilled backs, substan-
tially in the manner hereinbefore described and illustrated by the diagrams
hereunto annexed.
In witness whereof, we, the said Richard Scott Collinge, Edward Collinge,
and Robert Collinge, have hereunto set our hands and seals this Sixth day