IMPROVEMENTS IN APPARATUS AND ARRANGEMENTS FOR PLAITING, FOLDING, FRILLING, RUFFLING, GOFFERING, GATHERING, AND PINKING
Year: 1877

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Orange McConnell Chamberlain, of Jewin Street, in the
City of London, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN APPARATUS AND
ARRANGEMENTS FOR PLAITING, FOLDING, FRILLING, RUFFLING, GOFFERING,
GATHERING, AND PINKING."
Sealed the 1st September 1877, and dated the 7th March 1877.
;
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Orange McConnell Chamberlain
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 7th March 1877.
ORANGE MCCONNELL CHAMBERLAIN, of Jewin Street, in the City of London.
"IMPROVEMENTS IN APPARATUS AND ARRANGEMENTS FOR PLAITING, FOLDING,
FRILLING, RUFFling, Goffering, GATHERING, AND PINKING."
This Invention has for its object "Improvements in Apparatus and Arrangements
for Plaiting, Folding, Frilling, Ruffling, Goffering, Gathering, and Pinking" woven and
other fabrics, leather, paper, and other suitable material or materials, whereby a more
complete and convenient apparatus is produced for performing these several operations,
and so arranged as to allow of two or more being carried out at the same time, and
if desired, on the same portion of material, and producing a more complete and
convenient arrangement, combining in one machine the various operations named,
and greater facilities in adjusting, working, and performing its operations than in
any single machine or apparatus hitherto applied to these purposes.
In order to carry out my Invention, I employ a framework or framing to support
and carry the various working parts, which consist of a fixed table or surface,
adjustable or otherwise, over which the material or substance to be operated on
passes; a reciprocating feeding knife, blade, or folder acting on the same, and
between which and the fixed table or surface the material or substance to be
operated on passes; one, or a pair of rollers, with an intermittent action, between
which the material passes after being acted on by the reciprocating feeding knife,
blade, or folder, either or both of which rollers may be covered on their surface or
surfaces, be heated, and when two are used be of the same diameter, or one larger
than the other; either or both of these rollers may be made with grooves or indenta-
tions and recesses, or with grooves, recesses, and projections, or in patterns as preferred,
[Davina 1001

page_text: and over all or only in parts of their length, and may be formed of a series of rings
or short lengths put together so as to form the required length of roller, and so as to be
readily removed and changed as desired, and be provided with an automatic action,
which when adjusted to a given plan shall enable the apparatus to produce the
same continuously until the adjustment be changed so as to produce a different;
a self-acting gumming apparatus consisting of a trough, vessel, or receptacle contain-
ing the liquid gum or other adhesive substance employed is attached to or connected
with the machine or apparatus through which the thread, cord, tape, or other material
required to be attached to the fabric or inaterial operated on is passed, so as to be
covered with the adhesive solution on its way to the point of attachment.
In the trough, vessel, or receptacle, a pulley or pullies, roller or rollers, mounted
on a spindle or spindles, and immersed or partially immersed in the liquid gum or
other adhesive substance, is or are employed, and the thread, cord, tape, or other
inaterial is passed under the pulley or pullies, roller or rollers, so as to pass through
the liquid gum or other adhesive substance and be covered by the same; the thread,
cord, tape, or other material is mounted on a spool or spools, reel or reels, which are
threaded or placed on a rod or spindle situated above the trough, vessel, or receptacle,
and which may turn in bearings if desired; and means for giving the required
amount of tension to the thread or threads, cord or cords, tape or tapes, or other
material employed may be provided; and the said thread or threads, cord or cords,
tape or tapes, or other material employed, may on leaving the trough, vessel, or
receptacle, be caused to pass over a part or surface, adjustable or otherwise, to guide
the same in the proper direction and cause the surplus gum or adhesive matter
employed to be removed, and an equal distribution of the same to take place.
The reciprocating feeding knife, blade, or folder may be made or formed in one
length, or be composed of parts of various lengths with serrated, smooth, or other
suitably shaped edges and with the flexibility required, and arranged so as to be
easily attached, removed, and adjusted in the frame or part which carries it or
them.
The apparatus for pinking I sometimes make in a circular form, attached to,
connected with or forming part of the roller or rollers, and sometimes I make it with
a reciprocating action and place it on the framework, or else connected therewith so
as to act on the material before it reaches the reciprocating feeding knife, blade, or
folder; and in other cases it may be placed so as to act on the same after it has
passed through the rollers, its position on the apparatus and mode of action being
arranged so as to meet the circumstances of the particular case in which it is to be
used. I also arrange it, when required, so as to act on a certain length of the
edge of the material, and pink the saine, and then leave a certain portion without
being pinked, so as to admit of a variety being made in the character of the work
in accordance with the desire of the user.
Suitable means for adjusting, fixing the various parts, and lubricating the same,
are employed where necessary, and springs or yielding resistances are applied to
those parts where the action of such arrangements are required or preferred; and
guides and means for giving tension to the fabric to be operated on are used when
needed.
The driving or actuating of the apparatus is effected by a shaft or part attached
to or connected with the framework which receives the first movement, and by
means of rods, cranks, toothed gear, endless screws and other suitable connections,
transmits the required power and movement to the other parts. This shaft or part
may be actuated by a crank and handle or its equivalent, or by means of a belt and
pulley or other suitable means of transmitting the power of the prime mover to such
apparatus.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said Orange McConnell Chamberlain in the Great Seal Patent Office on
the 7th September 1877.
ORANGE M'CONNELL CHAMBERLAIN, of 24, Jewin Street, in the City of London.
"IMPROVEMENTS IN APPARATUS AND ARRANGEMENTS FOR PLAITING, FOLDING,
FRILLING, RUFFLING, GOFFERING, GATHERING, AND PINKING."
This Invention has for its object "Improvements in Apparatus and Arrangements
for Plaiting, Folding, Frilling, Ruffling, Goffering, Gathering, and Pinking" woven and
other fabrics, leather, paper, and other suitable material or materials, whereby a more
complete and convenient apparatus is produced for performing these several operations
and so arranged as to allow of two or more being carried out at the same time, and if
desired on the same portion of material, and producing a more complete and convenient
arrangement, combining in one machine the various operations named, and greater
facilities in adjusting, working, and performing its operations than any single
machine or apparatus hitherto applied to these purposes.
In order to carry out my Invention, I employ a framework or framing properly
stayed together and firmly kept in their proper position to support and carry the
various working parts, which consist of a fixed table or surface arranged so as to be
adjustable and readily secured in the desired position, over which the material or
substance to be operated on passes; a reciprocating feeding knife or blade, either in
one piece or in two or more portions, with a plain, serrated, or dentated edge acting
on the same, and between which and the adjustable fixed table or surface the
material or substance to be operated on passes, one or a pair of rollers (each formed
in one length or of two or more parts to make up the same) with an intermittent
action, between which the material passes after being acted on by the recipr cating
feeding knife or blado, or in some cases without being acted on by the same, either
or both of which rollers may be covered on their surface or surfaces, be heated, and
when two are used be of the same diameter, or one larger than the other, either or
both of these rollers may be made with grooves or indontations and recesses, or with
grooves, recesses, and projections, or in patterns as preferred, and over all, or only in
parts of their lengths, and may be formed of a series of rings or short lengths put
together so as to form the required length of roller, and so as to be readily removed
and changed as desired, and be provided with an automatic action, which when
adjusted to a given plan shall enable the apparatus to produce the same continuously
until the adjustment be changed so as to produce a different, a self acting gumming
apparatus, consisting of a trough, vessel, or receptacle containing the liquid gum or
other adhesive substance employed is attached to or connected with the machine or
apparatus through which the thread, cord, tape, or other material required to be
attached to the fabric or material operated on is passed, so as to be covered with the
adhesive solution on its way to the point of attachment.
In the trough, vessel, or receptacle, a pulley or pullies, roller or rollers, mounted
on a spindle or spindles, and immersed or partially immersed in the liquid gum or
other adhesive substance, is, or are, or may be employed, and the thread, cord, tape,
or other material is passed under the pulley or pullies, roller or rollers, or their
equivalent guiding arrangement, so as to pass through the liquid gum or other
adhesive substance, and be covered by the same; the thread, cord, tape, or other
material is mounted on a spool or spools, reel or reels, which are threaded or placed
on a rod or spindle, or on several rods or spindles, or as convenient or desired, situated
above the trough, vessel, or receptacle, or connected with or attached to the same,
and which may turn in bearings if desired, and means for giving the required amount
of tension to the thread or threads, cord or cords, tape or tapes, or other material em-
ployed may be provided, and the said thread or threads, cord or cords, tape or tapes, or
other material employed may on leaving the trough, vessel, or receptacle, be caused
to pass over a part or surface, adjustable or otherwise, and elastic or partially elastic
if preferred, to guide the same in the proper direction, and cause the surplus guin

page_text: or adhesive matter employed to be removed, and an equal distribution of the same
to take place.
The reciprocating feeding knife or blade may be formed or made in one length,
or be composed of parts of various lengths, with serrated, smooth, or other suitably
shaped edges and with the flexibility required, and arranged so as to be easily
attached, removed, and adjusted in the frame or part which carries it or them.
The apparatus for pinking I sometimes make in a circular form, attached to, con-
nected with, or forming part of the roller or rollers working on an under surface
formed of a softer metal, alloy, or material, and sometimes I make it with a recipro-
cating action and place it on the framework, or else connected therewith so as to act
on the material before it reaches the reciprocating feeding knife or blade, and in
other cases it may be placed so as to act on the same after it has passed through the
rollers, or so as to pass through them without being acted on by the knife blade or
folder, its position on the apparatus and mode of action being arranged so as to meet
the circumstances of the particular case in which it is to be used; I also arrange it,
when required, so as to act on a certain length of the edge of the material, and pink
the same, and then leave a certain portion without being pinked so as to admit of a
variety being made in the character of the work in accordance with the desire of
the user.
Suitable moans for adjusting and fixing the various parts, and lubricating the same,
are employed where necessary, and springs or adjustable yielding resistances are
applied to those parts where the action of such arrangements are required or pre-
ferred; and guides and means for giving tension to the fabric to be operated on are
used when needed.
The driving or actuating of the apparatus is effected by a shaft or part attached
to or connected with the frame work which receives the first movement, and by
means of rods, cranks, toothed gear, endless screws, or their equivalents and other
suitable connections, transmits the required power and movement to the other parts.
This shaft or part may be actuated by a crank and handle or its equivalent, or by
moans of a belt and pulley or other suitable means of transmitting the power of the
primo mover to such apparatus.
Sheet 1 shews a side elevation of the driving side of a machine constructed in
accordance with my Invention, as herein-before described, the parts behind the
front portions being shewn by dotted lines, similar letters of reference denoting like
parts of the machine in each sheet except in the smaller detail Drawings.
A, A, A, A, is one of the sides, checks, or frames of the machine on which tho
working parts are supported; B is the driving wheel. In this case the machine
being arranged for actuating by hand power, although if preferred it may be actuated
by a belt and pulley, spur gear, or other convenient means by steam or other
suitable power; B₁ the handle by which the machine is actuated; C, the shaft on
which the wheel B is attached, and which on its other end carries the gear wheel D
for actuating the rollers and transmitting the power required for actuating the other
parts of the apparatus; D, the spur wheel which actuates the other spur wheel E,
and by its means transmits the movement to the rollers and plaiting or feeding knife
or blade; F, a connecting rod or link on the shaft E¹ which carries E² for operating
the lever G attached to the shaft G¹, and which actuates the bell crank lever H, I,
and the corresponding lever I on the other side for giving the required reciprocating
movement to the plaiting or feeding knife or blade, and prevents any spring or the
knife or blade or getting out of line, and a curved slot or link is formed at one end
of H to allow the passage of an adjustable pin or stud attached to the lever G, by
means of which and the adjustable piu on the graduated disc crank E to which the
upper end of the connecting rod or link F is attached, the movement of the plaiting
or feeding knife or blade is regulated or adjusted, and thus prevents any spring or
getting out of line of the knife or blade. The top end of the bell-crank lever I
and the lever I on the other side are formed with a slot or opening in which the
ends of the rod or part to which the plaiting feeding knife or blade are attached;
or if preferred the knife itself works so as to give the required freedom of move-

page_text: ment. J is a short arm or lever operated by the cam on the shaft C and spring K,
by means of which the lift and required or desired amount of pressure of the plaiting
feeding knife or blade on the material when plaiting or working may be regulated
or adjusted by the aid of the spring K, and the adjustable screw L shewn dotted,
which lever J is connected or attached to the shaft to which the knife or blade is
attached. M, M, is a wheel on which ratchet teeth may be formed, as shewn, and
provided with a pall or catch to obtain the required motion which is attached to or
connected with the upper roller N, though it may be fixed on or connected with the
lower one, so that when the machine is operated the rollers are caused to move,
motion being given to the lower one by means of the spur wheels O, O. A lever M¹
and ratchet and pawl M² for actuating the wheel M, M, by hand when desired are
provided with a curved slot and adjustable set screw M³ to allow of the required
adjustment.
If preferred, what is known as the silent feed used in wood sawing machinery or
a suitable modification of the same may be employed in place of the ratchet wheel and
pall movement, or any other suitable and convenient known means or equivalent for
producing the desired effect. The rollers are fitted in slots in the framework so as
to be easily removed and replaced, and are kept in contact with the required or
desired amount of pressure by means of the springs P and adjustable screws Q, the
upper roller being arranged to slide vertically with its hearing up and down in a
vertical slot or guide in the frame A, A, A, A, although one long spring with each
end bearing on the brasses of the journals of the rollers, and kept down by an
adjustable screw working on a cross bar placed over the spring, and attached at
each end to the frames may be used, and the lower roller may be made to slide
horizontally into and out of its place by being fitted, as shewn, in a similar slot or
guide to that in which the plaiting or feeding knife or blade works as to allow of
its being set exactly under the top roll or in advance of or behind the same. The
rollers N, N, are made hollow in one length each, or in separate lengths, as herein-
before described, and a heating apparatus in the form of a tube of metal a or other
suitable material or materials, or combination of the same, closed at the end, but
perforated with small holes at suitable distances on its upper side to allow of the
passage of the jets of gas is inserted in the lower one, and the gas may be led into
it by connecting a flexible tube to its exterior opening at the end of the roller which
may be supported by a bracket, a suitable tap, cock, or other convenient means for
regulating or shutting off the gas being provided.
In some cases the tube may be a flat ellipse, as shewn, with one, two, three, or
more lines of holes on its upper side, so as to increase the amount of heat to act on
the upper surface of the roll. R. is the plaiting or feeding knife or blade with its
strengthening bar or plate, shewn by the dotted lines, working on the adjustable
flat surface Tand carried by the shaft Z, the table or part T over which the material
passes to the plaiting or feeding knife or blade being shown at V; the plaiting or
feeding knife or blade works in slots or guides formed on the frames A, A, A, A, as
shewn in the Drawing, and never passes off or beyond the flat surface on which it
works when operating; the flat surface or part in which the plaiting or feeding
knife or blade works passes over the under roller and up towards the point of
contact of the two rollers, but not far enough to prevent the passage of the plaited
or folded material off the same and between the rollers, and with the plaiting or
feeding knife or blade is made adjustable to allow of its being regulated to suit the
thickness or nature of the material or substance being operated upon.
Sheet 2 is an elevation of the feeding end of the machine representing one size of
my apparatus, like parts being denoted by similar letters of reference to those in
Sheet 1, and Sheets 3, 4, and 5.
Sheet 3 is a side elevation of the side opposite to the driving side shewn in
Sheet 1, like parts being denoted by similar letters of reference.
Sheet 4 is an elevation of the roller end of the machine, from which the work
issues as finished, like parts being denoted by similar letters of reference.
Sheet 5 is a plan of the machine, shewn in Sheet 1, 2, 3, and 4, with the rollers

page_text: and parts between the frames broken off, so as to be suitable for shewing a machine
capable of working any desired width of stuff or material, the same letters of
reference used in Fig. 1, Sheet 1, denoting like parts in this Drawing. A, A, A, A, the
side cheeks or frames of the machine; B, the driving wheel; B¹, the handle for
actuating the same; C, the shaft, on or to which the wheel B is attached, and
carrying at its opposite end the spur wheel D, which transmits the movement to the
rollers and other parts of the apparatus; E, a spur wheel on the shaft E', which
gives motion to the disc crank Y with the adjustable pin Y¹ working in the dovetail
groove in the same proper graduations, being marked both on the disc crank and the
adjustable pin, which, by means of the connecting rod W and ratchet and pall W¹,
gives movement to the ratchet wheel M, and actuates the rollers N, N, by means of
the spur wheels O, O, on the top and bottom rollers; F, a link or connecting rod
which works on the adjustable pin F¹ fitted in a dovetail groove in the disc crank F2,
proper graduations being provided on the same on the other end of the shaft. E¹,
and gives motion to the lever G which works on the shaft G¹ for actuating the bell-
crank lever H, I, which operates the plaiting or feeding knife or blade R, R, and its
strengthening bar or part S, S, attached to the bar or rod Z by means of the
screws U, U. The flat adjustable surface on which the plaiting or feeding knife or
blade works is shewn at T, T, and V, V, is the table or part over which the material
or substance to be operated on passes on its way to the plaitor, folder, or other
arrangement employed. J is the short lever connected to the knife bar Z and
actuated by the cam on shaft C and adjustable spring K, K, which gives the
required pressure to the plaiting knife or blade R, R, is operated by the cam on the
shaft L, and adjusted by the screw and spring L and K.
The adjustable screws for giving the required pressure to the top roller are shewn
at Q, Q; the heating arrangement or pipe for the passage of the gas is shewn
at a, a, together with the bracket or support for the burner b; c being the guminer
in which the liquid or compound to be used is placed; d, d, the brackets on which
the reels or spools e, e, running on or turning with the rod f,f, are placed.
The gummer is fitted with a cover to exclude the dust and dirt, and may, if the
character of the compound or stuff used in it requires it, be arranged so as to be
heated.
When it is desired to produce spaces between the plaits without any plaits in the
same, to increase the size of the plaits, to diminish the same, or to use both in
combination, I arrange the apparatus for this purpose by applying another shaft
and lever or levers, and do not actuate the plaiting knife or blade direct, as shewn
in the Drawing, but cause it to be actuated by a crank or eccentric and lever or
levers, acting on a link or bar somewhat similar to the link motion used in steam
engines, as shewn in Sheet 6, being in fact a suitable modification of the same, the
lever actuating the knife or blade being traversed up and down, in or on the same,
by means of a lever or handle worked by hand, so as to give a greater or less travel
and make a larger or smaller plait or space or spaces as desired, and if preferred the
adjusting motion of the ratchet wheel or part giving motion to the rollers may be
actuated from the same lever or shaft.
In some cases I may arrange this part of the apparatus to be worked by the same
power that operates the machine, and so that it may make the desired number of
plaits of the size decided on and leave spaces between of the desired length or
breadth. This may be done by causing the knife or blade to be traversed the
required length of stroke the desired number of times, and then to be put out of
action whilst the fabric, or material, or substance travels a certain distance, so as to
leave the desired amount of plain surface, and then to be again actuated for another
given amount of strokes, a cam or stop, adjustable as required, being caused to come
into and go out of action at the desired points; any of the well known means used
by engineers for producing such action, which may be more suitable or convenient,
may be applied to produce this effect.
When the machine is to be used for frilling a portion or portions of the roll is or
are removed so as to leave a space of the desired width, and a portion or portions of

page_text: a smaller diameter is or are substituted, the substance or material being fed in by
the knife, the stroke or travel of which is suitably adjusted to meet the require-
ments of the case.
In ruffling or frilling the gummer is employed, the reels being supplied with the
tape, thread, cord, or other material intended to be used, which is or are passed
over the top roll on to the ruffled or frilled material or substance and then through
the rolls.
For goffering the rolls require to be charged, and the goffering rolls or arrange-
ment substituted in their place, the feeding knife of blade being out of action, as
its assistance is not required in this operation, unless plaiting and goffering are
combined.
In gathering, the knife or blade and thread, tape, or cord are used as in ruffling and
frilling, the knife or blade in both cases being adjusted so as to give the desired
amount of feed.
In pinking, a cutter may be placed on the upper roll, the lower roll or part of the
same on which the cutter works being made of a softer metal alloy or substance, so
as to prevent blunting the cutter, and the feeding knife or blade may be used if
desired.
For making one or more folds at one operation the folding is done by an attach-
ment on the table or other suitable or convenient part of the machine, the knifo
being used to fold or feed in the material or substance.
Guides and tension apparatus attached to or placed on the table of tho machino
and made adjustable, and which may consist of a series of round and square, and or
round and square rods of metal or other suitable material or materials, or combina-
tion of the same, attached or connected to two or more side pieces so as to form
a kind of gridiron are employed, and between which rods or bars the material or
substance to be operated on passes so as to give the required or desired tension,
proper adjustable pins or pegs, or their equivalent, being used to guide the material
or substance on its passage to the rollers, and the side pieces to which the bars are
attached may be made of a sufficient height and opened out sufficiently at the front
to cause the material or substance to keep on the machine and not get foul of the
working gear on either side.
A " doctor," or "doffer," for removing the material or substance from the rollers
after it has been passed through the same may be used and caused to act by its own
weight, an attached weight or a spring or their equivalent, so as to be adjusted to
press against the roller with the required amount of pressure to ensure the matorial
or substance being taken off, but at the same time so as not to damage it.
Having now descsibed the nature of my said Invention of improvements in
apparatus and arrangements for plaiting, folding, frilling, ruffling, goffering, gather-
ing, and pinking, and the manner in which the same is to or may be performed or
brought into practical use, I desire to remark that I do not claim as of my Invention
the application and use of machinery for performing any of the operations herein-
before named, as the same has been applied in various ways for these purposes long
since, nor do I claim as of my Invention any of the separate or individual parts or
portions used in forming my apparatus as herein-before described, the same being
well known and not novel, nor do I limit or confine myself to the precise details
shewn in the accompanying six Sheets of Drawings, as the same may be varied
without departing from the nature of my said Invention, but what I do claim as of
my Invention and desire to have protected by Letters Patent is,-
First. The combination and arrangement of apparatus acting in the manner and
pplied to the purposes herein-before described and specified, and substantially as
llustrated in the accompanying six Sheets of Drawings, or any mere modification
f the same.
Second. The adjustable feeder and spacer for plaiting or otherwise, substantially
s shewn in Fig. 1, Sheet 6.
Third. The arrangement or mode of forming the rollers herein-before described
nd illustrated in Figs. 2 to 8, Sheet 6, and the manner of mounting the lower ADA

page_text: so as to be readily removed and replaced, and readily adjusted, substantially as
herein-before described, illustrated, and specified.
Fourth. The mode of adjusting the stroke of the reciprocating knife or feeding
blade, and also the lifting off and pressure of the same on the material or substance,
and making the same of several portions, to give the required length, substantially 5
as herein-before described, illustrated, and specified.
Fifth. The gumming arrangement applied to a plaiting, or plaiting and sewing
machine combined, substantially as herein-before described, illustrated, and specified.
In witness whereof, I, the said Orange McConnell Chamberlain, have here-
unto set my hand and seal, this Seventh day of September, in the year of 1
our Lord 1877.
ORANGE MCCONNELL CHAMBERLAIN. (LS.)