IMPROVEMENTS IN BUTTON-HOLE ATTACHMENTS FOR SEWING MACHINES
Year: 1885

page_text: We EDWARD BLACKFAN MOORE of Westchester in the County of Chester, in the
State of Pennsylvania, one of the United States of America, Printer, and GEORGE
REHFUSS of the City and County of Philadelphia, in said State, Machinist, do
hereby declare the nature of our invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN BUTTON-HOLE
ATTACHMENTS FOR SEWING MACHINES" and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:-
This Invention has special relation to that class of button-hole sewing-machine
attachments wherein a feed-plate carrying a swivelled disc is employed, the former
being moved lengthwise, through the medium of a rack and pinion on its under
side, and the disc rotated by means of a dog or pawl engaging with a segmental
rack formed on the lower surface of the disc.
The object of our invention is first to increase the efficiency of the cloth feeding
mechanism, by rendering its operations more accurate and serviceable and adapting
it to conditions for which other attachments of the same class are unsuited, and
secondly to provide for the application to a button-hole sewing machine, of a novel
construction of button-hole cutter.
In sewing machine attachments of the class referred to it has been customary to
arrange the ordinary "four motion" feed-bar, so as to impart therefrom inter-
mittent rotary motion to the swivelled disc and to locate the pinion, ratchet wheel,
and other devices for moving the cloth-slide, at a point immediately behind, and in
close proximity to, the "four-motion" feed-bar.
In using the "four-motion " feed-bar for the purpose stated it is necessary to
extend the arm or bracket which carries the disc-moving dog, forward of the shuttle,
whereby such arm or bracket is deprived of adequate support and in some cases
becomes unsteady and unreliable. And again, the "four motion" feed is not a
positive action, but is partly controlled by a spring, which is uncertain and has a
tendency to become inactive.
With reference to the feed plate or slide, it may be stated, that usually no
adequate provision has been made for the adaptation or employment of a
thoroughly serviceable and reliable button-hole cutting attachment, the pinion,

page_text: the place necessary for the reception of the anvil upon which the cutting tool
works.
Our invention contemplates first, the provision of means whereby a positive and
reliable movement is imparted to the cloth-turning disc, and, secondly, the novel
construction and arrangement of the button hole cutter.
"
Referring to the accompanying drawings wherein are illustrated our
improvements, applied to a sewing machine of the Wheeler and Wilson" well
known type.
Figure 1 is a plan view of the underside of a sewing machine embodying our
improvements.
Figure 2 is a perspective view of a portion of the feeding mechanism.
Figures 3 and 4 are plan views of portions of the feed plate, and feeding
mechanism.
Figure 5 is a sectional view (transverse-vertical) of the bed of a sewing machine
with the button-hole cutter applied.
Figure 6 is a perspective view of the cutting tool.
A designates a feed-plate designed and adapted to fit in the opening in the cloth-
plate, usually occupied by the ordinary throat-plate; B designates the swivelled
disc carried by said feed-plate, the same being mounted in the usual manner and
constructed with the button-hole slot B¹.
Instead of having the slot B¹ terminate within the periphery of the disc as
heretofore, we extend said slot through said periphery to accommodate it to the
cutting attachment, which requires an increased length of slot.
A continuation of the slot is produced in the forward portion of the feed-slide
as shewn at b, and with this extension the slot in the disc coincides, when the disc
is in its normal position. The length of the slot B¹, 6 is about twice the length of
the slot as usually made.
C designates a sectional rack fitted to the underside of the feed plate and located
at a distance from the disc about equal to the length of an ordinary button-hole.
The feed-plate is somewhat longer than usual, and the purpose of this elongation
is to adapt the slide to the peculiar movement, which it obtains in order to render
the cutting attachment available.
The plate A is provided with the yielding retainers d, d¹ of which d, is a pivotal
block, having its outer edge bevelled to fit the corresponding edge of the cloth-
plate, while d is a dove-tailed slide, provided with an operating lever-extension d³
against which impinges a spring d³.
A knob or thumb-piece c, serves as a means through which the slide is
manipulated.
D, designates a slotted plate, fastened to the bed of the machine by a screw e.
The feed-plate A, carries a pin e², upon which is mounted an anti-friction roller e²,
which fits and moves in the slot f, the latter being formed with the bend or cam
diversion f'.
The plate D, has another and similar slot f2, through which passes a screw G
entering the feed-plate and carrying a spring washer.
The screw and washer, while holding the two plates together, with a slight
binding pressure, permit the plate A to move upon the plate D, with sufficient
freedom to perform its offices.
The slots f, f, are elongated a distance corresponding to the extra length given
to the button-hole slot B₁ b, the extension being produced between the cam like
diversion and the inner end of the plate D.
E represents a ratchet-wheel, with which is connected a pinion E' mounted on a
plate E located over the transverse brace E³ of the machine-bed. The pinion is
adapted to engage with the sectional rack C.
Motion is communicated to the ratchet wheel E, from a rock-shaft F which is
supplementary to the usual appendages of a sewing machine and which is mounted
in special bearings, H, H', located at one side of, and at a distance from, the main

page_text: shaft of the machine. This rock-shaft carries, at its rear end, a crank-arm h, to
which, at the upper end, is coupled a link h¹, pivotally connected with a lever h².
The latter is fulcrummed on the shaft or spindle of the ratchet wheel E, and carries
a spring pawl or dog h³, which engages with said ratchet wheel E, and intermittently
rotates the same.
The shaft F is connected with an eccentric I, on the main shaft, by means of a
pitman I swivelled or pivotted to the crank-arm h, and is rocked thereby.
As the main shaft rotates continuously in one direction, the ratchet wheel and
pinion are intermittently moved and the feed-plate propelled, while the sectional
rack is in position to convey motion to said feed-plate.
The relative positions of the rack and pinion as heretofore employed is such that
the feed is towards the back of the machine. Under this arrangement and mode of
feeding, the travel of the feed-plate is limited to the length of the button-hole and
cannot be exceeded, but in our attachment, the requirements of the cutting
mechanism are such that the feed-slide must be capable of movement a distance at
least twice the length of the button-hole. A portion of this movement is obtained
independently of the feeding mechanism, and to provide for such an extraordinary
movement of the feed-plate, we have reversed the movement of the feed and now
cause the feed-plate under the stitching operation, to travel towards the operator.
In adjusting the feed slide preparatory to stitching a button-hole, the middle
portion of the slot B', b is brought under the needle, but any other adjustment may
be made according to the size of the button-hole to be stitched.
Before the button-hole has been stitched, and when it is desired to cut the button
hole, the rack is disengaged from the pinion, and the feed-slide pushed back by
hand, until the outer end of the slot b strikes the nipple k. This movement brings
that part of the cloth, in which it is desired to cut the slit, directly over the anvil,
which is located as shown, some distance behind the path of the needle, occupying
the space which in other machines is filled with or contains certain portions of the
slide moving mechanism.
The swivelled disc is turned by means of a pawl or dog m, carried by a "four
motion" lever M, which instead of being connected to the "four motion" feed bar
of the sewing machine, is pivotally connected to the crank arm m³ mounted on the
outer end of the rock-shaft.
Through the motion of this shaft obtained from the main shaft in the manner
described, the lever M, is reciprocated in one direction. A slot n, is formed in said
lever and in said slot plays a slide n¹ carried on a crank-pin n², the crank being on
the end of the horizontal shaft, O, which shaft has its bearings in the frame work
of the machine as shown, and is adapted to rock and thereby impart to the lever M,
a vertical movement.
These two movements of the lever are similar to the four motions of the feed-bar,
and are the movements through which the discs are rotated.
The rocking motion of the shaft O is produced by means of a cam P, on the main
shaft, and a crank arm P¹ which is mounted on the rear end of the shaft O and
carries an anti-friction roller Q which rides on the periphery of said cam.
Referring now to the special construction of button hole cutter, C¹ designates
the anvil, which consists of a block of metal, faced, if necessary with brass or
copper, and preferably indented or die-sunk in the outline of a button-hole.
Said anvil lies above the axis of the main shaft, and normally with its face below
the lower plane of the feed plate, which therefore feeds above and unimpeded by
Baid anvil.
The anvil is designed to be lifted into the button hole slot of the feed plate and
rotary disc when cutting is to be done, and, is, therefore adjustable.
For the purposes of such adjustment, the anvil is attached to a shoe or wedge D¹
bevelled on its under side as shown and hinged to the bed of the machine, and
below this shoe lies another bevelled shoe D2 which moves transversely of the bed
of the machine in or upon guides d³ attached to said bed,

page_text: To render the movement of the parts steady and uniform, the shoe plate D² may
be slotted at de to embrace the depending web extension d' of the shoe D¹.
E represents a link connecting the shoe plate D2 with a crank-arm Es on the
lower end of a turning post E6 to which is attached the cutting tool, operating as
hereinafter described when the post E is turned to bring the cutter into position
the shoe D slides in impingement with the shoe D¹ and so raises the latter and the
anvil into the cutting plane. A reverse movement allows the anvil to drop out of
said plane and below the plane of the feed plate.
F3 designates the cutter holder, consisting of a lever like casting or metallic
brace, comprising the box f' in which the cutting tool works, the handle extension f
and the hinge extension fº.
The latter is hinged to the standard or post E° which rises as shown through the
bed plate outside of the web a and the cutter holder may be thus lifted and lowered
to adjust to its requirements. It may also be turned around as already suggested
with the post E⁹.
When not in use, the cutter holder lies at one side of the machine lengthwise
thereof, a stud G2 in its outer end entering a hole G³ in said bed plate and holding
it in position.
When the cutter is to be used, it is lifted and swung around under the needle
arm so as to lie transversely of the machine and behind the needle bar or head.
In this position, the stud G which has a notch or groove at g¹ fits in a hole g² in
the bed plate and is secured by a spring latch h to prevent prizing upward when
the leverage of the cutting tool is brought into play.
A knob or thumb piece rising from the latch through a slot in the bed plate is
used for the disengagement of the latch from the stud.
The end of the stud G2 is bevelled so as to cause the latch to recede automatically
and engage under pressure with the stud G².
The cutter consists of a punch H2 shaped to conform to the outline of a button-
hole and mounted on the end of a spring retractible lever 12 which is pivoted
"within a recess 13 and to the cutter holder. Said punch is actuated by means of an
eccentric lever K by raising which the punch is lowered and forcibly pressed
through the cloth, thus stamping or punching out the eye of the button hole and
cutting the slit for the length.
By means of the eccentric K great power is obtained and the button hole may
be easily cut through any thickness or quality of material.
The positions of the cutter holder and the cutter and eccentric lever are such as
to meet no obstacle in the way of their movement.
.Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is
First. In button hole appliances for sewing machines, the combination of a feed-
plate, carrying a rotary disc and having a sectional rack on its under side, engaging
with a pinion through which motion is conveyed from the main shaft and said
plate caused to travel outwardly on a line with the needle arm, or towards the
front of the machine, and the disc caused to revolve; of a button hole cutter and
an anvil or die, said anvil or die and cutter being located between the throat and
the standard supporting the needle arm, and said disc and feed slide being formed
with cominunicating slots whereby a shifting movement of the slide is permitted to
allow the cutter and anvil play through the same substantially as described.
Second. In button hole appliances for sewing machines, the combination of the
following elements: viz. A feed plate carrying a rotary disc, and having a
sectional rack mounted on its under side, a rock shaft having a crank arm on one
end, coupled to the main shaft, and receiving motion therefrom, a pinion ratchet
wheel and pawl and lever, mounted on the bed of the machine and a link connecting
the lever with the crank arm, substantially as described.
Third. In button hole appliances for sewing machines, the combination with the
feed plate having the slot extension b and carrying the rotary disc B formed with

page_text: the elongated slot B¹ of a button hole cutter and an anvil or die, said slots being
adapted to coincide when the disc is in a normal position and the feed plate being
capable of sliding back, so that part of the slot B' may be brought back of the line
of the needle for cutting purposes, substantially as described.
Fourth. In a button hole sewing machine, the combination of an anvil or die and
a button hole cutter, with the feed plate and a rotary disc mounted thereon, said
plate having a slot extension b and said disc having the elongated slot B¹, said slot
or slots and extension being adapted to coincide when the disc is in its normal
position and said feed plate being capable of a reverse movement so that part of
the slot may be brought back of the line of the needle, substantially as described
and shown.
Fifth. In a button hole cutting attachment for sewing-machines, the combination
with a swiveled punch holder, carrying an independently movable punch, of a sliding
shoe connected with and operated through the medium of said punch holder, and a
hinged shoe carrying an anvil or die upon which the punch cuts, said shoes being
bevelled on their contiguous faces for conjoint action, substantially as shown and
described.
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
For the Applicants.