IMPROVE- MENTS IN SEWING MACHINES, AND IN APPARATUS CONNECTED THEREWITH
Year: 1861

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to James Willcox, of Ludgate Hill, in the City of
London, Sewing Machine Manufacturer, for the Invention of "IMPROVE-
MENTS IN SEWING MACHINES, AND IN APPARATUS CONNECTED THEREWITH."-A
communication from abroad by Charles Henry Willcox, of New York,
in the United States of America.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said James Willcox at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 25th
November.1861.
I, JAMES WILLCOX, of. Ludgate Hill, in the City of London, Sewing
Machine Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention
for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES, AND IN APPARATUS CONNECTED THERE-
WITH," a communication to me from abroad by Charles Henry Willcox, of
New York, in the United States of America, to be as follows:-
This Invention relates to various improvements in sewing machines, and
in certain of the apparatus to be used in connection with sewing machines,,
and consists,
Firstly, in the employment of a loop retainer or tension "let off" in con-.
nection with a revolving hook or looper, used in combination with an eye;
pointed needle, and applied either to a double or single thread sewing machine.,

page_text: The object of this loop retainer is to hold and control the loop until it is
drawn up by the action of the hook or needle, or both, thereby preventing
the thread from kinking, or from being again caught on the point of the hook
or looper.
Secondly, the application and use, in combination with a revolving hook or
looper and eye-pointed needle, for the purpose of producing a double thread
looped or chain stitch, of a stop or stationary hook so shaped and in such a
position that the loop formed by the descent of the needle will be carried
against it, and turned or twisted in such a manner as to interlock the thread
from the lower spool.
Thirdly, in the application of leather or other suitable soft material between
the feed-bar and adjustable stop and the feed-actuating cam or eccentric, so
as to prevent such metallic surfaces from coming in contact when at work,
and thereby obviating the noise attendant upon the working of sewing
machines.
Fourthly, in the employment of a suitable apparatus for-holding the thread
firmly in a sewing machine until the loop or stitch is nearly or wholly drawn
up to the material, at which point it is suddenly released, little or no tension
being applied to the thread. By the use of this apparatus no adjustment of
the tensions will ever be required by the operator. This apparatus may be
applied to all sewing machines, suitable minor modifications being requisito
for each class of machine, but as applied to the machine known as Willcox
and Gibbs' it will consist of two glass or metal dises moving freely upon a
headed spindle screwed into the frame of the machine, one of the discs being
alternately made to approach towards and recede from the other by means of
a lever worked by a suitable cam or eccentric, which is so shaped as to hold
the discs together, and nip the thread between them during a certain fixed
portion of its revolution, and then to release them. The thread should be
allowed to unwind freely from the spool, passing thence direct between the
nipping discs, whence it proceeds.to-the-needle.-
Fifthly, in making the needle hole of sewing machines in a separate piece
of metal, of such a shape as to admit of the feed surface acting simultaneously
upon all the four sides of the needle hole, whereby a more regular and perfect
feed of the material is insured. This needle-hole piece in some machines may
also be made of such a shape as to ensure the proper presentation of the loop
to the looper, and so facilitate the entrance of the looper therein. It will be
found advantageous to make the needle-hole piece of hardened steel, and to
render it readily removeable from the machine, so that they may be changed
and replaced with facility.

page_text: Sixthly, of a peculiar device for producing a rotatory motion in one direction
only of the driving shafts of sewing machines when driven by reciprocating
mechanism, whereby the inconveniences arising from the "dead centres" of
the crank are obviated.. This peculiar device consists of two collars secured
on the main or driving shaft of the machine. One face of each collar is
recessed, so as to have a projecting rim or flange, inside of which fits a cir-
cular piece with a lever arm or crank attached thereto, and having one or
more notches or inclines cut in its periphery, in each of which is placed a
roller, which is made to wedge between the inner surface of the rim or flange
and the inclined surface of the notch by the action of a spring. By moving
the levers in one direction these. rollers will become tightly wedged between
their adjoining surfaces, and will consequently rotate the collars, and with
them the driving shaft. On reversing the action of the levers the circular
piece will turn back freely, and the rollers will take a fresh hold on the rims
of the collars so as to continue the rotation of the same at the next stroke of
the levers. These levers operate on opposite sides of the shaft, and are
connected to the treadle by means of a double connecting rod, the lower ends
of which are hinged together, and a spring inserted between them to force
them apart, and thereby cause the levers to take a position when at rest
favorable to the easy starting of the machine.
Seventhly, in attaching a check plate to the under sides of hemmers or
felling guides, such plate being provided at one end with a check pin or its
equivalent, which enters a hole in the cloth plate of the sewing machine, by
which simple contrivance the hemmer or feller can always be placed in its
correct position, whilst it is at the same time effectually prevented from moving
or becoming accidentally displaced by the working of the machine.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said James Willcox in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 24th
May 1862.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JAMES
WILLCOX, of, Ludgate Hill, in the City of London, Sewing Machine Manu-
facturer, send greeting..
WHEREAS Her, most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-fifth day of November, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred, and sixty-one, in the twenty-fifth year of
Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto

page_text: me, the said James Willcox, Her special license that I, the said James
Willcox, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the
said James Willcox, my executors, administrators, or assigns, should at any
time agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter
during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use,
exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland,
the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
SEWING MACHINES, AND IN APPARATUS CONNECTED THEREWITH," a communication
from abroad by Charles Henry Willcox, of New York, in the United States
of America, upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said James
Willcox, my executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under
my hand and seal, or under the hand and seal of one of them, should
particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in
what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed
in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar, months next and imme-
diately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW. YE, that I, the said James Willcox, do hereby declare the
nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the samo is to be per-
formed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement, reference being had to the accompanying Drawings, and to the
letters and figures marked thereou, that is to say:-
The said Invention relates to various improvements in sewing machines,
and in certain of the apparatus to be used in connection with sewing machines,
and consists,-
Firstly, in the employment of a loop retainer or tension "let off," in con-
nection with a revolving hook or looper used in combination with an eye-
pointed needle, and applied either to a double or single thread sewing
machine. The object of this loop retainer is to hold and control the loop until
it is drawn up by the action of the hook or needle, or both, thereby preventing
the thread from kinking, or from being again caught on the point of the hook
or looper...

page_text: being applied to the thread: By the use of this apparatus no adjustment of
the tensions will ever be required by the operator. This apparatus may be
applied to all sewing machines, suitable minor modifications being requisite
for each class of machine; but as applied to the machine known as Willcox
and Gibbs', it will consist of two glass or metal discs moving freely upon a
headed spindle screwed into the frame of the machine; one of the discs being
alternately made to approach towards and recede from the other by means of
a lever worked by a suitable cam or eccentric, which is so shaped as to hold
the discs together and nip the thread between them during a certain fixed
portion of its revolution, and then to release them. The thread should be
allowed to unwind freely from the spool, passing thence direct between the
nipping discs, whence it proceeds to the needle.
Fourthly, in making the needle hole of sewing machines in a separate piece
of metal' of such a shape as to admit of the feed surface acting simultaneously
upon all the four sides of the needle hole, whereby a more regular and perfect
feed of the material is insured. This needle-hole piece in some machines may
also be made of such a shape as to ensure the proper presentation of the loop
to the looper, and so facilitate the entrance of the looper therein. It will be
found advantageous to make the needle-hole piece of hardened steel, and to
render it readily removeable from the machine, so that they may be changed
and replaced with facility.
Fifthly, of a peculiar device for producing a rotatory motion in one direction
only of the driving shafts of sewing machines when driven by reciprocating
mechanism, whereby the inconveniences arising from the "dead centres" of
the 'crank are obviated. This peculiar device consists of two collars secured
on the main or driving shaft of the machine. One face of each collar is
recessed so as to have a projecting rim or flange, inside of which fits a circular
piece with a lever arm or crank attached thereto, and having one or more
notches or inclines cut in its periphery, on each of which is placed a roller
which is made to wedge between the inner surface of the rim or flange and
the inclined surface of the notch by the action of a spring. By moving the
levers in one direction these rollers will become tightly wedged between their
adjoining surfaces, and will consequently rotate the collars, and with them the
driving shaft. On reversing the action of the levers the circular piece will
turn back freely, and the rollers will take a fresh hold on the rims of the
collars, so as to continue the rotation of the same at the next stroke of the
levers. These levers operate on opposite sides of the shaft, and are connected
to the treadle by-means-of a double connecting rod, the lower ends of which
are hinged together, and a spring inserted between them to force them apart;

page_text: and thereby cause the levers to take a position wlien at rest favorable to the
easy starting of the machine.
.
Sixthly, in attaching a check plate to the under sides of hemmers or felling
guides, such plate being provided at one end with a check pin, or. its
equivalent, which enters a hole in the cloth plate of the sewing machine, by
which simple contrivance the hemmer or feller can always be placed in its
correct position; whilst it is at the same time effectually prevented, from
moving or becoming accidentally displaced by the working of the machine.
And in order that the said Invention may be fully understood, I. shall now
proceed more particularly to describe the same, and for that purpose I shall
refer to the several Figures on the Sheet of Drawings hereunto annexed, the.
same letters of reference indicating corresponding parts in all the corresponding.
Figures.
The first part of this Invention is restricted to that class of single or
double thread sewing machines in which a tambour, or chain, or other kind of
stitch is formed by the combined action of an eye-pointed needle and a.
revolving or rotary hook or looper, and more particularly relates in such com-.
bination to a revolving hook or looper always travelling in the same direction.
when operating for the formation of the said stitch, and in which the one loop.
is passed through its predecessor while other loops are on the hook or looper,
and the interlaced or cast off loop is drawn up or tightened by the action of
the hook on the succeeding loop; also in which each loop is or may be
twisted to open or spread it, and so strengthen the stitch after passing the.
cloth to be sewed, and before taking a fresh loop. Such an arrangement is
shewn and described in the Specification of Royal Letters Patent, granted to
John Henry Johnson, on or about the Fifteenth day of July, One thousand
eight hundred and fifty-seven, Number 1971.
The present Invention, however, is an improvement upon such combination
of an eye.pointed needle-and-revolving-hook-or-looper,-and-essentially-differs-
therefrom in a most important respect. Thus, in the former combination
referred to, the loop, after it slips off the book, is caused to lodge in an angular
recess, and is afterwards twisted by a spur or "cast off," arranged in relation
to the hook and angular recess, so that the loop is spread for the nose of the
hook to pass through on taking a fresh loop from the needle, the preceding
loop lying in a concave portion of the hook, whilst the fresh one is entered by
its nose, and immediately afterwards the old loop is cast off from all connection
with the hook, and in a large or loose form to be subsequently drawn tight by
the opening of the new loop. This action exposes the old loop after it has
been cast off, and before being drawn up or tight, to twist and kink; or it may

page_text: by the rapid action of the hook be thrown into its path and become entangled
therewith; in either case the thread will break, and thus cause imperfections
in the scam, which are the starting points for its ravelling.:
To remedy this great defect is the object of the improvement, which consists
in an attachment to the hook of a gradual "let off," that causes the looper to
retain possession of the old loop for a full revolution or thereabouts, or more,
from the first entry of the hook, and till the said old loop is fully (or nearly
so) drawn up or tight against the cloth by the action of the hook and needle
on the new loop,.and which retainer of the old loop, moreover, exercises a
tension on the latter, in accordance with the action on it through the new loop
of the hook or looper as aforesaid. It is therefore evident that by this improve-
ment the old loop not being left free cannot kink or become entangled or
disarranged whilst being drawn up.
Figure 1 of the Drawings represents a front view of a single thread chain-
stitch sewing machine, provided with a revolving hook or looper, and "having
the present improvement applied to the latter; and Figures 2, 3, and. 4 are
views or diagrams illustrating the action of the hook or looper with its "let
off" attachment at different stages in the formation of a stitch, and in its
changing positions relatively to the needle.
The general construction and action of the machine is or may be similar to
that herein-before referred to, or of any other suitable single or double thread
chain-stitch sewing machine, and therefore including the action of the feeding.
mechanism, which comprises the roughened plate B and presser foot' Y for
holding the cloth. in between them on the table A, and other ordinary features,
requires no description here. C represents the reciprocating eye pointed
.needle, which in its descent carries the thread d through the cloth and below
the table for the revolving hook or looper E to catch and act upon it, as
already generally described; the hook E is not only formed with a loop twisting,
spur g, but is also provided at its back with an attachment or extension F that
may have a lip bat its extreme end, and which attachment or extension con-
stitutes the tension "let off." or loop retainer herein-before referred to. This
"let off" or retainer is formed by a swell or projection on the back of the
hook, extending from the nose of the hook for about a quarter of a circle in-
the rear of its path, and joined at its back part to the base or rear to the base.
of the hook by a curved or straight line, at the outward extremity of. which is
the lip b. The operation is substantially as follows:-As the needle. C com-
mences to rise the nose of the hook E enters the new loop brought down by:
the needle,
dle, which is the position shewn f for the hook in Figure 2 of the Drawing.
The old or former loop r. having been previously spread out or
or opened, the

page_text: hook next advances to the position shown in Figure 3, carrying the new loop
through the old one, which latter still remains on the looper, or on the inner
portion of the back of the "let off" F. The hook next moves to the position
shown in Figure 4, when the old loop has slid further outwards, so as to catch
or rest against the lip b, which latter, in the continued forward movement of
the hook, and as the old loop is nearly or quite drawn up travels out of the
old loop, to act in like manner upon the new one in its turn.
Figures 5 and 6 of the Drawings represent a plan and front elevation of
the improved noiseless feed motion. L represents part of the frame of a
sewing machine, through which passes the shaft P, on the end of which is
turned the eccentric pin O, fitting into the slot in the feed bar M. In this
slot is fitted a buffer or pad R, of leather or other suitable material, to receive
the forward thrust of the eccentric pin O. S is a circular washer of leather
or other suitable material, attached to the handle N by means of the screw
Q, which passes eccentrically through a hole in both into the frame, and binds
the washer between the handle N and the face of the frame L, producing
sufficient friction to prevent it being turned by the action of the feed bar M,
which in the course of the revolution of the eccentric pin O is forced back by.
a spring against the adjustable stop just referred to. Figure 7 represents a
front, and Figure 8 a side view of part of a sewing machine, to which the
improved tension apparatus is applied. A is the framing of the machine, and
of which the bearing O and spool stand C form a part; B is the driving shaft
on which is secured by the set screw I the cam G, a portion of the periphery
of which cam, from 9 to p, is concentric with the centre of the shaft at p; the
periphery suddenly approaches the centre, after which it gradually recedes, and
by an easy curve regains the full diameter at q. To the front end N of the
spool stand C, is hinged by means of the fulcrum pin K, the lever D, the lower
end of which bears against and is caused to follow. the motion of the cam G,
_by_means_of_the_spring H acting upon the opposite side of the said cam. The
stud screw F, on which are loosely fitted the two dises or washers E, the washer
L, and the spiral spring M (shown by dotted lines in Figure 8) is passed through
a hole in the lever D of sufficient diameter to permit of the free movement of
the spiral spring M, and is screwed firmly into the spool stand C. P represents
a spool on which is wound the thread r. The operation is substantially as
follows:-The thread » from the spool P passes through the thread guide J,
and thence between the two washers E, partly round the stud F, and out from
between the washers at right angles to be acted upon by the needle and looper
or other device used in forming the stitch; the lever D upon being forced out-
wards by the cam G holds the washers E, and with them the thread r firmly

page_text: between the washer L and the head of the stud F, in which position they are
held by that portion of the cam between q and p, until by the operation of the
looping or other devices the loop or stitch is drawn up nearly or quite to the
surface of the cloth; when at p the lever is suddenly released and allowed to
approach the centre of the shaft, and thereby relieves the washers E of all
pressure except the slight pressure exerted by the spiral spring M, which
causes sufficient friction to prevent too much thread being jerked through
between the washers upon their sudden release by the lever D. The con-
tinued revolution of the cam G causes the lever D to be again gradually
forced outwards, and again firmly holds the thread between the washers E
preparatory to the drawing up of another stitch.
I shall now proceed to describe the fourth part of the said Invention, which
has reference to the feeding surface and needle hole.. All arrangements of
feed surface and needle hole heretofore constructed are found to be more or
less defective, since, under some circumstances, owing to part of the foot or
presser covering portions of the cloth plate through which no feeding device
projects, seams or other suddenly. increased thickness, of material cannot
without assistance be fed through the machine. The difficulty in, the way of
encompassing the needle hole with a feed surface has been the apparent
impossibility of supporting that portion of the cloth plate in which the needle
hole is made without leaving a break in the feed surface on one or more sides
of the needle hole where the same is connected with the rest of the cloth plate.
The novel arrangement which is the subject of this part of the Invention
obviates these difficulties, and permits the feed surface to entirely encompass
the needle hole which is in a separate piece fastened on to the under side of
the cloth plate, and projects upwards through a hole in the cloth plate and
through a hole in the centre of the feed surface, flush with the upper side of
such plate; this "needle-hole piece" also acts as a guard to prevent the loop
being thrown out froin the wrong side of the needle for the looper or hook to
Pieces having different sizes of needle holes can be readily substituted
according to the kind of work to be performed. The needle hole pieces can
be made of steel and hardened, and thereby rendered much more durable than
heretofore.
enter.
As these improvements may be readily applied with but slight alteration to
any single or double thread machine using a reciprocating feed, I will only
show the manner in which it may be applied to that known as the Wilcox
and Gibbs' sewing machine; Figure 9 represents a plan of the cloth plate of
that machine with the present improvement applied thereto; Figure 10 is-a
plan; and Figure; 11 a side view of the improved feed surface; Figure 12

page_text: represents a plan, and Figure 13 a side view of the improved "needle hole
piece."
A is the cloth plate in which is made an oblong slot or hole V, and through
this slot works the feed surface B; through a hole in the centre of the feed
surface projects the needle hole piece C, which is fastened on to the under
side of the plate by the screw D, and adjusted to its proper position by the
steady pin E; it has the needle hole U, and the slot or groove g (Figures 12
and 13), made in it to permit the proper movement of the feed surface B,
which it will be perceived is intended to operate on all four sides of the needle
hole; the surface h of the needle hole piece, close to which the needle passes,
acts so as to throw the loop to the proper side of the needle to be caught by
the looper.
Figures 14 and 15 represent respectively a front and side elevation of a
dead centreless crank motion for driving sewing machines.
A and B repre-
sent two connecting rods or links which are hinged together at E, and
connected to the treadle at F and to two levers or arms D, D'; at L these
levers or arms are fitted so as to turn freely upon the collars C, C', which
collars are firmly secured to the shaft J by the set screws H, H. In the faces
of the collars C, C¹, are turned recesses so as to form rims inside, of which
project bosses of the arms D, D', and in the peripheries of these bosses are
cut notches forming inclined planes, as shewn by the dotted lines in Figure 14.
Between these inclined planes and the inside of the rims in the fixed collars,
and in contact with both are held the rollers k, k, k, by the action of the spiral
springs 1, 1, 1. When at rest the connecting rods are made to take the position
shewn in Figure 14, by the action of the spring G. It.will be perceived that
the rollers k, k, k, are only wedged between the arms or levers D, D¹, and the
collars C, C, when the levers or dogs are moved in one direction, the opposite
movement releasing them, and permitting the backward motion of the levers
-without-affecting-the shaft.-The-operation-is-substantially-as-follows:-Upon
the rods A and B being moved up from the position always assumed when
unconstrained, which is the position shewn in the Drawings, the rollers k, k, k,
in the notches or inclined planes in the periphery of the boss of the lever or
dog D' are wedged, so that the lever D' in its continued upward motion turns
the collar C, and with it the shaft J and collar C. In the meantime, by the
action of the rod A, the lever D being on the opposite side of the shaft has
been moved freely in the opposite direction from the lever D.. When the whole
or any part of the upward motion of the rods A, B, has been accomplished,
and they are made to descend, the lever D, by the action of the rollers on the
rim of the collar C, now takes its turn in rotating the shaft, and the lever D

page_text: moves freely in the opposite direction ready when the action of the rod is again
reversed to rotate the shaft J as before.
•
Figure 16 represents a side, and Figure 17 à top elevation of the check or
adjusting plate G of the self-adjusting hemmer, which plate is shewn attached
to a hemmer H at Figures 18 and 19; representing respectively elevation and
plan of the same.
A represents part of the cloth plate of a sewing machine, in which is the
hole for the reception of the hemmer screw J; by means of this screw and tho
thumb nut I, the hemmer is fastened to the plate. The check plate G is
rivetted or otherwise firmly fastened to the under side of the hemmer H, in
the proper position to ensure the right adjustment of the hemmer with the
needle, when the projection K enters the hole F in the plate intended for its
reception.
Having now. described and particularly ascertained the nature of the said
Invention, and the manner in which the same is or may be used or carried
into effect, I would observe in conclusion, that what I consider to be novel
and original, and therefore clain as the Invention secured to me by the
herein-before in part recited Letters Patent is,-
First, the general construction and arrangement of sewing machines and
apparatus used in connection therewith, substantially as herein-before
described.
Second, the application and use to and in sewing machines of a revolving
loop retainer or tension "let off," in combination with a rotatory hook or
looper, and an eye pointed needle, substantially in the manner and for the
purpose herein-before described.
Third, the application and use of leather or other sound deadening material
interposed between those parts of the feed mechanism of sewing machines
which strike against or come in contact with each other when at work with a
view to the prevention of noise, as herein-before described.
Fourth, the system or mode of producing a self-acting intermittent tension
of the needle thread. in sewing machines, by holding such thread rigidly
between suitable nipping surfaces until the stitch or loop is nearly or quite
drawn up to the surface of the material being sewed, and then releasing the
thread suddenly, so as to allow sufficient thread to be drawn through the
apparatus with little or no tension or friction for the forming of the next
stitch.
Fifth, the making of the hole through which the needle works in sewing
machines in a separate piece of metal secured to the cloth ulate, and carrying

page_text: the feed surface to operate on all four sides of such needle hole, as herein-
before described.
Sixth, the peculiar combination of mechanism for driving sewing machines,
as herein-before described.
Seventh, the application and use of a double or forked connecting rod in
combination with a suitable clamping arrangement for driving sewing machines
as herein-before described.
Eighth, the application and use in combination with a hemmer of any
suitable construction of a check or adjusting plate, substantially and in the
manner herein-before described.
In witness whereof, I, the said James Willcox, have hereunto set my hand
and seal, this Twenty-third day of May, One thousand eight hundred
and sixty-two.
JAS. WILLCOX. (L.S.)

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JAMES
WILLCOX, late of Ludgate Hill, but now of Cheapside, both in the City
of London, Sewing Machine Manufacturer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Royal Letters Patent, bearing date the Twenty-fifth day of November
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-one, No. 2958, did, for Herself,
Her heirs and successors, grant unto me, the said James Willcox, Her
special license. that I, the said James Willcox, my executors, adminis
trators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said James Willcox, my
executors, administrators, or assigns, should at any time agree with, and
no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the term
therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the
Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
SEWING MACHINES, AND IN APPARATUS CONNECTED THERE WITH," a communi-
cation from abroad by Charles Henry Willcox, of New York, in the
United States of America, upon the condition (amongst others) that I,

page_text: the said James Willcox, by an instrument in writing under my hand
and seal, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the
said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and
cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six
calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters
Patent And whereas I, the said James Willcox, by an instrument in
writing under my hand and seal, did declare the nature of the said
Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and
caused the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
Twenty-fourth day of May One thousand eight hundred and sixty-two:
And whereas, since the filing of the said Specification, I have been
advised that the second head of the said Invention is of doubtful novelty,
and that the fifth head of the said Invention is not of sufficient utility
to render its retention advisable, I therefore desire to disclaim the second
and fifth heads of the said Specification, and the claims which have
reference thereto; and as the first claiming clause may be held to cover
parts of the Invention which are not intended to be claimed, I desire to
disclaim the first claim: And whereas I have also discovered certain
clerical errors in the said Specification which are herein referred to, and
which I am desirous of correcting:
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said James Willcox, by and with the
leave of Her Majesty's Solicitor-General, and for the reason aforesaid, do
alter the said Specification by striking out the paragraph commencing
with the word "Secondly" in line thirty-two, page four, of the Queen's
Printer's copy of the said Specification, and ending with the word
"machines" in line thirty-six of page four. I strike out the word
"Thirdly" in line thirty-seven, page four, and substitute therefor the
word "Secondly;" I also strike out the word "Fourthly" in line
thirteen, page 5, and substitute therefor the word "Thirdly;" I also
strike out that portion of the Specification which commences-with-the-
word "Fifthly," line twenty-two, page five, and ends with the word
"machine" in line two, page six; and I strike out the word "Sixthly "
in line three, page six, and substitute therefor the word "Fourthly;" I
also strike out that part of the Specification commencing with the
words "Figures 5 and 6" in line eight, page eight, and ending with the
words "referred to "in line nineteen, page eight. I substitute the word
"Third" for the word "Fourth," line twelve, page nine; and I strike out
that part of the Specification commencing with the words "Figures 14

page_text: and 15" in line, thirteen, page ten, and ending with the words "as
before" in line two, page eleven; I also strike out the whole of the
First, Third, Sixth, and Seventh claiming clauses at the end of my said
Specification; and in order that the remaining clauses may read in their
proper order I substitute the word "First" for the word "Second" in line
twenty-two, page eleven; the word "Second" for the word "Fourth"
in line thirty of the same page; the word "Third" for the word "Fifth "
in line thirty-seven in the same page, and substitute the word "Fourth"
for the word "Eighth" in line eight, page twelve, of the said printed
copy of the said Specification; and I correct the following clerical errors
by substituting the word "of" for the word "to" between the words
"rear" and "the" in line thirty-four, page seven, and by substituting
the word "causing" for the word "carrying" in line thirty-eight, page
cleven.
And in order that the effect of the said Disclaimer and Memorandum.
of Alteration may be better understood I annex hereunto a copy of the
said Specification as it will appear when so altered and amended, the
preamble and testing clause being omitted.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said James Willcox, do hereby declare
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement, reference being had to the accompanying Drawings,
and to the letters and figures marked thereon, that is to say :-
The said Invention relates to various improvements in sewing.
machines, and in certain of the apparatus to be used in connection
with sewing machines, and consists,-
Firstly. In the employment of a loop retainer or tension "let-off" in
connection with a revolving hook or looper used in combination with an
eye-pointed needle and applied either to a double or single thread sewing
machine. The object of this loop retainer is to hold and control the
loop until it is drawn up by the action of the hook or needle or both,
thereby preventing the thread from kinking or from being again caught
on the point of the hook or looper.
Secondly. In the employment of a suitable apparatus for holding the
thread firmly in a sewing machine until the loop or stitch is nearly or,
wholly drawn up to the material, at which point it is suddenly released,
little or no tension being applied to the thread. By the use of this
apparatus no adjustment of the tensions will ever be required by the

page_text: operator. This apparatus may be applied to all sewing machines, suitable
minor modifications being requisite for cach class of machine, but as
applied to the machine known as Willcox and Gibbs' it will consist of
two glass or metal discs moving freely upon a headed spindle screwed
into the frame of the machine, one of the discs being alternately made to
approach towards and recede from the other by means of a lever worked
by a suitable cam or eccentric, which is so shaped as to hold the discs
together and nip the thread between them during a certain fixed portion
of its revolution, and then to release them. The thread should be
allowed to unwind freely from the spool, passing thence direct between
the nipping discs, whence it proceeds to the needle.
Thirdly. In making the needle hole of sewing machines in a separate
piece of metal of such a shape as to admit of the feed surface acting
simultaneously upon all the four sides of the needle hole, whereby a
more regular and perfect feed of the material is insured. This needle
hole piece in some machines may also be made of such a shape as to
ensure the proper presentation of the loop to the looper, and so facilitate
the entrance of the looper therein. It will be found advantageous to
make the needle hole piece of hardened steel, and to render it readily
removeable from the machine, so that they may be changed and replaced
with facility.
Fourthly. In attaching a check plate to the under sides of hemmers
or felling guides, such plate being provided at one end with a check pin
or its equivalent, which enters a hole in the cloth plate of the sewing
machine, by which simple contrivance the hemmer or feller can always
be placed in its correct position, whilst it is at the same time effectually
prevented from moving or becoming accidentally displaced by the
working of the machine.
And in order that the said Invention may be fully understood, I shall
now proceed more particularly to describe the same, and for that pur-
pose I shall refer to the several Figures on the Sheet of Drawings here-
unto annexed, the same letters of reference indicating corresponding
parts in all the corresponding Figures.
The first part of this Invention is restricted to that class of single or
double thread sewing machines in which a tambour, or chain, or other
kind of stitch is formed by the combined action of an eye-pointed needle
and a revolving or rotary hook or looper, and more particularly relates in
such combination to a revolving hook or looper always travelling in the

page_text: same direction when operating for the formation of the said stitch, and
in which the one loop is passed through its predecessor while other loops
are on the hook or looper, and the interlaced or cast off loop is drawn up
or tightened by the action of the hook on the succeeding loop; also in
which each loop is or may be twisted to open or spread it, and so
strengthen the stitch after passing the cloth to be sewed and before
taking a fresh loop. Such an arrangement is shewn and described in the
Specification of Royal Letters Patent granted to John Henry Johnson
on or about the Fifteenth day of July One thousand eight hundred and
fifty-seven, Number 1971.
The present Invention, however, is an improvement upon such com-
bination of an eye-pointed needle and revolving hook or looper, and
essentially differs therefrom in a most important respect. Thus in the
former combination referred to the loop after it slips off the hook is
caused to lodge in an angular recess, and is afterwards twisted by a
spur or "cast off" arranged in relation to the hook and angular recess,
so that the loop is spread for the nose of the hook to pass through on
taking a fresh loop from the needle, the preceding loop lying in a
concave portion of the hook, whilst the fresh one is entered by its nose,
and immediately afterwards the old loop is cast off from all connection
with the hook and in a large or loose form, to be subsequently drawn
tight by the opening of the new loop. This action exposes the old loop
after it has been cast off and before being drawn up or tight to twist
and kink, or it may by the rapid action of the hook be thrown into its
path and become entangled therewith; in either case the thread will
break, and thus cause imperfections in the seam, which are the starting
points for its ravelling.
To remedy this great defect is the object of the. improvement, which
consists in an attachment to the hook of a gradual "let off" that causes
the looper to retain possession of the old loop for a full revolution, or
thereabouts or more, from the first entry of the hook and till the said
old loop is fully (or nearly so) drawn up or tight against the cloth by
the action of the hook and needle on the new loop, and which retainer
of the old loop moreover exercises a tension on the latter, in accordance
with the action on it through the new loop of the hook or looper, as
aforesaid. It is therefore evident that by this improvement the old
loop not being left free cannot kink or become entangled or disarranged
whilst being drawn up.

page_text: Figure 1 of the Drawings represents a front view of a single thread
chain-stitch sewing machine provided with a revolving look or looper,
'and having the present improvement applied to the latter, and Figures 2,
3, and 4 are views or diagrams illustrating the action of the hook or
'looper with its "let-off" attachment at different stages in the formation
'of a stitch and in its changing positions relatively to the needle.
The general construction and action of the machine is or may be
similar to that herein-before referred to, or of any other suitable single
or double thread chain-stitch sewing machine, and therefore including
the action of the feeding mechanism; which comprises the roughened
plate B and presser foot Y for holding the cloth in between them on
the table A and other ordinary features requires no description
'here. C represents the reciprocating eye-pointed needle, which in its
'descent carries the thread d through the cloth and below the table for
the. revolving hook or looper E to catch and act upon it, as already
generally described. The hook E is not only formed with a loop twisting
spur g, but is also provided at its back with an attachment or extention
F that may have a lip b at its extreme end, and which attachment or
extention constitutes the tension "let-off" or loop retainer herein-before
referred to. This "let-off" or retainer is formed by a swell or projection
on the back of the hook, extending from the nose of the hook for about
'a quarter of a circle in the rear of its path and joined at its back part
to the base or rear of the base of the hook by a curved or straight line,
at the outward extremity of which is the lip b. The operation is sub-
stantially as follows:-As the needle C commences to rise the nose of
the hook E enters the new loop brought down by the needle, which is
the position shewn for the hook. in Figure 2 of the Drawing. The old
or former loop having been previously spread out or opened the hook
_next_advances_to_the_position_shewn in Figure 3, carrying the new loop
through the old one, which latter still remains on the looper or on the
inner portion of the back of the "let-off" F. The hook next moves to the
position shewn in Figure 4, when the old loop has slid further outwards,
so as to catch or rest against the lip b, which latter in the continued
forward movement of the hook, and as the old loop is nearly or quite
drawn up travels out of the old loop to act in like manner upon the new
one in its turn.
Figure 7 represents a front, and Figure 8 a side view of part of a
sewing machine to which the improved tension apparatus is applied.

page_text: A is the framing of the machine, and of which the bearing O and spool
stand C form a part; B is the driving shaft on which is secured by the
set screw I the cam G, a portion of the periphery of which cam from
q to p is concentric with the centre of the shaft at p, the periphery
suddenly approaches the centre, after which it gradually recedes, and by
an easy curve regains the full diameter at q. To the front end N of
the spool stand C is hinged by means of the fulcrum pin K the lever D,
the lower end of which bears against and is caused to follow the motion
of the cam G by means of the spring H acting upon the opposite side
of the said cam. The stud screw F on which are loosely fitted the two
spiral spring. M (shewn by dotted lines in Figure 8) is passed through a holo in the lever D of sufficient diameter to permit
of the free movement of the
discs or washers E, the washer L, and the spiral spring M and is screwed
firmly into the spool stand C. P represents a spool on which is wound
the thread. The operation is substantially as follows:-The thread r
from the spool P passes through the thread guide J, and thence between
the two washers E, partly round the stud F, and out from between the
washers at right angles to be acted upon by the needle and looper or
other device used in forming the stitch, the lever D upon being forced
outwards by the cam G holds the washers E and with them the thread r.
firmly between the washer L and the head of the stud F, in which
position they are held by that portion of the cam between q and p, until
by the operation of the looping or other devices the loop or stitch is
drawn up nearly or quite to the surface of the cloth, when at p the lever
is suddenly released and allowed to approach the centre of the shaft
and thereby relieves the washers E of all pressure except the slight
pressure exerted by the spiral spring M, which causes sufficient friction
to prevent too much thread being jerked through between the washers
upon their sudden release by the lever D. The continued revolution of
the cam G causes the lever D to be again gradually forced outwards
and again firmly holds the thread between the washers E preparatory to
the drawing up of another stitch.
I shall now proceed to describe the third part of the said Invention,
which has reference to the feeding surface and needle hole. All arrange-
ments of feed surface and needle hole heretofore constructed are found
to be more or less defective, since under some circumstances owing to
part of the foot or presser covering portions of the cloth plate through
which no feeding device projects, seams or other. suddenly increased
thickness of material cannot without assistance-be fed through the
machine. The difficulty in the way of encompassing the needle_holc-

page_text: with a feed surface has been the apparent impossibility of supporting
that portion of the cloth plate in which the needle hole is made without
leaving a break in the feed surface on one or more sides of the needle
hole where the same is connected with the rest of the cloth plate. The
novel arrangement which is the subject of this part of the Invention
obviates these difficulties, and permits the feed surface to entirely encom
pass the needle holc, which is in a separate piece fastened on to the
under side of the cloth plate and projects upwards through a hole in the
cloth plate. and through a hole in the centre of the feed surface flush
with the upper side of such plate; this "needle hole piece" also acts
as a guard to prevent the loop being thrown out from the wrong side of
the needle for the looper or hook to enter. Pieces having different sizes
of needle holes can be readily substituted according to the kind of work
to be performed. The needle-hole pieces can be made of steel and
hardened, and thereby rendered much more durable than heretofore.
As these improvements may be readily applied with but slight altera-
tion to any single or double thread machine using a reciprocating feed
I will only shew the manner in which it may be applied to that known
as the Willcox and Gibbs' sewing machine. Figure 9 represents a plan
of the cloth plate of that machine with the present improvement applied
thereto; Figure 10 is a plan, and Figure 11 a side view of the improved
feed surface; Figure 12 represents a plan, and Figure 13 a side view of
the improved "needle-hole picce."
A is the cloth plate in which is made an oblong slot or hole V, and
through this slot works the feed surface B. Through a hole in the centre
of the feed surface projects the needle hole piece C, which is fastened on
to the under side of the plate by the screw D, and adjusted to its proper
position by the steady pin E; it has the needle hole U and the slot or
groove (Figures 12 and 13) made in it to permit the proper movement
-of-the-feed-surface B, which it will be perceived is intended to operate
on all four sides of the needle hole; the surface h of the needle hole
piece close to which the needle passes acts so as to throw the loop to the
proper side of the needle to be caught by the looper.
Figure 16 represents a side, and Figure 17 a top elevation of the check
or adjusting plate G of the self-adjusting hemmer, which plate is shewn
attached to a hemmer II at Figures 18 and 19, representing respectively
clevation and plan of the same.

page_text: A represents part of the cloth plate of a sewing machine, in which is
the hole for the reception of the hemmer screw J; by means of this
screw and the thumb nut I the hemmer is fastened to the plate. The
check plate G is rivetted or otherwise firmly fastened to the under side
of the hemmer H in the proper position to ensure the right adjustment
of the hemmer with the needle when the projection K enters the hole F
in the plate intended for its reception.
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of the
said Invention, and the manner in which the same is or may be used or
carried into effect, I would observe in conclusion that what I consider
to be novel and original, and therefore claim as the Invention secured
to me by the herein-before in part recited Letters Patent is,―
First. The application and use to and in sewing machines of a
revolving loop retainer or tension "let-off" in combination with a
rotatory hook or looper and an eye pointed needle, substantially in the
manner and for the purpose herein-before described.
.
Second. The system or mode of producing a self-acting intermittent
tension of the needle thread in sewing machines by holding such thread
rigidly between suitable nipping surfaces until the stitch or loop is
nearly or quite drawn up to the surface of the material being sewed,
and then releasing the thread suddenly so as to allow sufficient thread
to be drawn through the apparatus with little or no tension or friction
for the forming of the next stitch.
Third. The making of the hole through which the needle works in
sewing machines in a separate piece of metal secured to the cloth plate,
and causing the feed surface to operate on all four sides of such needle
hole, as herein-before described.
Fourth. The application and use in combination with a hemmer of
any suitable construction of a check or adjusting plate, substantially and
in the manner herein-before described.
whereof, I, the said James Willcox, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Fifth day of August One thousand eight
hundred and seventy-one.

page_text: I hereby grant my fiat giving leave to the above-named James.
Willcox, to file in the Great Seal Patent Office, with the Specification to
which the same relates, the above-written Disclaimer and Memorandum
of Alterations.