IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES
Year: 1869

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Charles Forster Waldo, of No. 13, Bread Street,
Cheapside, in the City of London, Importer, for the Invention
of "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES."-A communication from
abroad by Tony Tricoire, of the City of Paris, in the Empire of
France.
Sealed the 26th November 1869, and dated the 1st June 1869.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.left by the said Charles Forster Waldo
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition,
on the 1st June 1869.
I, CHARLES FORSTER WALDO, of No. 13, Bread Street, Cheapside, in
the City of London, Importer, do hereby declare the nature of the said
Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES," (a communication,) to
be as follows:-
This Invention consists of improvements in various constituent parts
of sewing machines, which improvements may be separately applied.
and used or may be combined in one machine; the object being to
facilitate and accelerate the necessary manipulation; thus effecting a

page_text: saving of time to the operator, and to simplify the construction and
operation of the machinery in some portions, or to substitutę in others
improved apparatus to enlarge the function and general application
of the machine. This is effected by novel construction, application,
and arrangement of parts under the several heads here mentioned.
The first head relates to what is called and known as the "tension."
The second relates to what is called and known "as the threading"
of the machine, substituting certain novel contrivances enabling the
operator to readily and rapidly lay the sewing thread in and through
the guides, leading, and tension gear, or through the most of it, in place
of the old tedious mode of "threading," by separately passing the end
of the thread as formerly through each of the many holes and apertures
or guides conducting it to the needle eye as formerly.
°
The third relates to the adjustment of the needle to the shuttle race.
The fourth relates to guarding the needle against breakage by. the
shuttle nose.
The fifth relates to the raising and turning the presser foot.
The sixth relates to what is called and known "as the "feed."
The tension plate heretofore has been perforated with a number of
holes through which the sewing thread was alternately passed by
causing the end to separately enter each hole used, requiring the tension
plates to be loosend, dismounted, and the amount of tension pressure
re-adjusted whenever it was "threaded," each of which operations con-
sumed a certain amount of time, and as in practice this had sometimes
to be often repeated the aggregate loss of time was considerable.
In one modification of the first head of this Invention a convoluted
wire placed between the tension plate and the tension plate bed is
substituted for the perforated holes. The convoluted wire being of
such general configuration that upon slightly raising the tip of the
plate it springs out, in which position it can receive the sewing thread
and can be thrust back in its place without disturbing the tension
adjustment, which once fixed can remain unaltered throughout the
sewing operation. This contrivance is called "the wire tension."
In another modification I dispense with the tension plate and wire
and substitute an apparatus which may be affixed to the same portion
of the machine as the preceding, and consists of a curved spring piece,
the two arms of which can be compressed-together by the turning of

page_text: a screw and carrying on the inner flange of each a disc flat faced and
convex edged on the face which is opposed to the other, so that on being
made to approve each other the convex edges can serve as open lips
to receive and pass between the flat surfaces the sewing thread, which
will there be seized upon these surfaces being brought together by
turning the screw which compresses the arms of the curved spring
together according to the amount of tension desired. Spring cushions
of any suitable design or substance can be adapted to impart to the
disc plates a yielding pressure to accommodate the varying thickness or -
any ordinary inequalities in the sewing thread, the thread is passed
under (or over according to the relative positions) a guide stud or pin
placed on either side of the perimeter of the discs, so that it is passed,
say, first under one of the studs, then over so as to step between the
disc surfaces, then under the other stud, so that when tension is applied
it is caused to run uniformly across the surface at their line of maximum
compression. A convoluted wire placed between the disc faces can
also serve the like office as in the preceding. After the thread had been
passed through the tension it was formerly next "threaded" by passing
its end through a guide eye, next through a thread tube in the needle
bar head, next through one arm of a guide staple, through the guide
eye of a take-up spring through the other arm of the staple, then
through a guide eye or a hole at the needle bar foot preparatory to
being made to enter the eye of the needle. All this "threading" by
passing the end of the sewing thread through each of these when often
repcated, as in practice is required, becomes tedious.
By this Invention the needle eye (which must of course be thus
"threaded) is the only one remaining that requires the end of the
thread to be inserted and passed through it. The first guide eye is
made an open spiral, the cylindrical thread pipe is substituted by an
open spiral channel or passage way, the double arm staple by separate
guide arms of sufficient length and retraction, the take up spring guide
eye is made an open spiral, so also is the substitute for the needle foot,
guide hole, or eye, so that by these contrivances the operator is enabled
while holding the thread distended with one or both hands, and without
any necessity to pass its end (as when for instance "threading' &
needle) through each aperture, to "lay" it swiftly along so as to pass
and be led through all these requisite thread passages to arrive at the
needle in readiness for the sewing operation. Under this head also is.
"

page_text: comprised the employment of jewels for the needle hole in the throat
plate, and again of making the hole of hard tempered steel, by which
great and durable smoothness is obtained. The needle bar slide box
has formerly, for the purpose of adjusting the needle to the shuttle race,
been made to oscillate by means of the force of a volute spring
chambered in a recess of the "head" to which the slide box is attached
and the counter action of a screw drawing against the volute. This
last has been liable in the changes of its position which constantly
occur to cause the slide box to cant over one way or the other.
By this Invention the movement is effected by employing a compound
or double hollow screw comprising one screw working within another;
so that the positive motion of the screw actuates the movement of the
slide box and with more unvarying precision than the spring motion of
the volute. One screw acting to check or counteract the other screw
with similar yet truer result to that of the screw used to check or
counteract the force of the volute.
It is requisite to adjust the needle up quite flush to the vertical face
of the shuttle race, at the same time the needle is liable in some kinds
of work to deflect into the shuttle race, and consequently in the way of
the shuttle's path. To remedy this various contrivances have been
employed to guard the needle from such deflection. By this Invention
a novel and efficient contrivance is applied to this purpose. To a sliding
flange or piece made to play in the bottom of the race way is imparted
a reciprocating motion, by which it is made to advance laterally against
the needle at the proper time of the needle's movement to hold it in
its right place to be clear of the shuttle at the moment when the
latter advances to enter the loop of the needle, and pass close along the
sides of it, whereby the needle unless thus guarded is of course often
hit by the shuttle nose, and much breakage of needles has resulted from
this cause.
The most generally followed mode heretofore of raising and turning
away from the work or from the feed surface the presser foot has been
by a lifter attached to its lower end, and extending laterally through
the side of the slide box, and after being lifted is then turned by moving
the lifter sideways externally in a horizontal slot through the slide
box. This lifter apparatus has proved objectionable in various classes
of shoe or gaiter work, interfering with the free movement of the work.
By this Invention the whole lower part of the side box is left externally

page_text: entire, steadiness is given to the presser bar by a stud working in an
inside groove within the slide box, which stud on the presser moving
at its desired height has free space to turn upon the bottom ridge of
the presser spring chamber according as it shall be moved by the lifter
piece, which is attached (out of the way of the gaiter work). to the
presser bar at the top portion of the slide box upon the upper or top
side of which it has after being lifted free scope to turn about, while at
the same time the presser is retained at its lifted position by both or
either of the top lifter riding on the slide top box, and the stud on the
floor of the presser spring chamber below. Wider scope of turning.
than by the old method for the presser foot is also obtained.
To aid by mechanical increase of force the hand of the operator a
secondary swing lever apparatus is added. The lever may be pivoted
on the side of the slide box at top, in such manner that by being
partially rotated on its pivot by the operator's finger it shall raise the
lifter piece to the top, and by continuing the rotation then turn it.
laterally sufficient to lodge upon the top side of the slide box, the lever
may be made to complete the offices of both lifter and turner of the
presser bar, by being pivoted to a collar piece put upon the presser box
above the slide box top.
There is a large and very popular class of machines in which the
moving along of the work sewn has heretofore been effected by what
is called and known as the "wheel feed." It is now sought to substitute
for the wheel feed in this class of machines without changing their
present approved general contour the advantages heretofore pertaining
to the "griffe" feed machines.
It is in the production of a series of modifications of "Griffe" feeds:
better adapted and more suitable than heretofore to the employment
of this class of machines formerly using wheel feeds, and of certain
novel construction, combination, arrangement, and application of such
a feed or such feeds, and the combination also of such with the class.
of machines mentioned, comprising such for instance as those long
known as the "Singer" and the "Howe," that this head of the Inven-
tion consists. For exemplication of these the well known shuttle sewing
machines having depending from the shuttle race ridge a cleft lug to
which is attached the usual portable wheel feed are selected, and of
these that known as the "Howe" is adopted for a familiar illustration.

page_text: The first of these modifications consists of a special adaptation of
what is called the compound slide in combination with a lever move-
ment to the feed, by means of which what is known as the "four.
motion" feed is made to move in true right angle directions, and
consequently to present always true square surfaces to meet the yielding
pressure of the foot and grip and move along the substance passed.
between to be sewn. It is portable and is adapted to replace the:
portable wheel feed when the latter is removed from the machine, so:
that the operator is enabled at will to mount the machine either with
a wheel feed or with a griffle feed according as may be desired. A
case which may be of any convenient shape, but which is preferably
made of lozenge form of similar dimensions to the displaced wheel
feed, so that the general contour of the machine remains much as
before, is slotted to receive and carry a vertical slide, to the top part
of which is attached the grip or feed piece which in its feeding motion
bears against and receives the pressure of the pressure foot. To the
end furthest from the shaft of the horizontal slide is fixed a stud on
which plays a lever, which lever by a projecting rim which may be
provided with a friction slide has a hold in the vertical slide carrying
"it up and down with the motion of the lever. The case. has a back
plate which is screwed upon it, and the whole then becomes a box feed,
and is then by a stud passing through the centre fastened by a screw
nut to the cleft tug in a similar manner to that of the wheel feed which
is displaced. When fixed in its place the lever crosses beyond the
cam shaft and carries an adjustable slide having an aperture through
which passes the cam shaft, and in which play the cams, one for lifting,
the other for advancing the lever to the extent of the throw, which is
adjusted by a scrow in the adjusting slide, which when adjusted is
secured by a jam nut.. When the lever is lifted by the cam it raises
the vertical slide, and the feed grip which the slide carries so as to
cause the grip to bear against the under surface of the presser foot to
sieze the substance placed between to be fed along, and when the lever
is then drawn in the direction of its length by the advance cam it
draws along with it the horizontal slide, which carries the vertical slide,
to which is fixed the grip piece which is advanced to the same extent
carrying along the substance seized between it and the presser foot to
the distance moved. Both the advance and return motions are positive
motions operated by the two cams which play within the adjusting
slide, but spring return. motions can be substituted if desired. The lever

page_text: '
serves as a pivoted drawing rod to actuate the horizontal slide, and
as a lever to actuate the vertical slide. It follows from the action of
these two slide motions that the feed grip always presents a true level
surface, and moves in a true parallel direction.
The second of these modifications consists of an adaptation, also of
a case or box feed in which the lateral feed motion is obtained by direct.
action through a sliding bar called the advance bar, dispensing with
lever gear. The system of construction somewhat approaching that of a.
lock is simple, and the case or box can be made of very slight thickness,
and consequently occupies less space while on a certain scale the entire.
construction could be more cheaply effected. This feed is also attached
by a stud passed through its centre to the cleft lug of the machine
frame in a similar manner to that of the displaced wheel feed, and
carries in its top part a horizontal slide piece, which is actuated by an
adjustable sliding bar extending across the feed case and beyond. the
cam shaft, over which it carries a descending limb or lug to receive the
forward stroke of the cam throw. A recess in the top edge of the
'sliding bar receives the projecting lower portion of the horizontal slide.
piece which is thereby caused by. its direct action to move to the extent
of the throw communicated by the advance cam to the sliding bar. The
extent of the throw is regulated by an adjusting screw at the end
nearest the operator of the sliding bar, and secured at its adjustment
by a jam screw. According as the action of the adjusting screw retracts
the limb or lug at the other end of the sliding bar called the "advance
bar" upon the cam, the greater is the amount of throw imparted to it
and vice versa. By this arrangement the thumb piece or head of the
adjusting screw is brought between the cleft lug and the operator into
the most convenient and consequently desirable position in which it
can be placed, and where it can be manipulated with the greatest
facility. The return motion of the horizontal slide is effected by a
spring which the general configuration permits to be eleganly applied
in a flat spring concealed within the case. The horizontal slide receives
in a vertical slide way recessed in its converse side the vertical sliding
griffe or "feed piece carrier of which it then becomes the holder." This
carrier is reciprocated at the proper time up and down by the motion
'communicated by a barrel cam,. (being the second or lift cam employed
on the main shaft for the "feed") through a self-pivoted crank lever, the
'crank end of which works in and receives the motion of the barrel cam,

page_text: which imparts oscillation to the pivot portion; which is passed laterally
at the requisite distance and plays in holes pierced through the upper
part of the two divisions of the cleft lug, and upon which in the
space between these two divisions is fastened a vibrating arm, which
becomes the feed lift arm, the end of which plays in the lower end
of the feed piece carrier, which by its vibration it causes to move up and
down by positive motion both ways at the precise time to effect the feed
obtained from the heart cam on the main shaft. By the combination
of the action then of these two cams the advance cam which is a heart
cam with the direct action advance bar, and the lift cam which is a
barrel cam with the lever and the griffe carrier at the precise times
requisite to the sewing done, the griffe or feed piece is made to rise, seize
the substance placed between it and the presser foot, advance with it,
descend, and return to renew the operation ad infin; and in all these
the feed surface and the movements are in true square and parallel
lines, and the feed presents always a true level surface to grip the
article sewn.
Another modification consists in a case similarly placed to the
last and attached in like manner also to the lug, working a grip
piece attached direct to the lever, dispensing with slides, and moving
with the pitch of the lever's motion. This case instead of a back
plate has a face plate which screws upon it after it is fastened in its
place. Upon a stud also at its opposite end works a horizontal lever
upon an open slide in which plays a friction slide piece carried by
the stud. The lever is also of sufficient length to cross beyond the
cam shaft, and then is turned down at its end so as to receive the
advance motion direct from the cam and bears a regulating screw to
adjust the length of the advance throw, the screw being then keyed
by a jam screw a rocking feed piece may be used to adapt the grip.
or claw surface to the varying positions of the work being sewn. The
return motions of the lever are effected by a spring. This is a simple
form of a box feed and can be cheaply constructed.
Another modification consists of a box feed in one plate or piece, also
attached to the cleft lug and fixed thereto by a bolt screw, screwed into
a-tongue forming part of the box feed plate, which tongue enters the cleft
and this firmly holds the plate in its place. The rear and top side
of the plate bear directly against the race ridge and against the under
side of the platform which are thus made to fill the office of a back,

page_text: plate and form the opposite sides for the slide way of a horizontal slide.
This is actuated by a vertical lever rocked on a stud on the side of the.
box plate between the lug and the cam shaft, which lever receives its.
motion from a heart cam to the reverse throw to that of the preceding,
which arrangement causes the adjusting stitch screw and jam nut
to be presented more conveniently to the operator. The upper end
of the lever plays in a slot in the slide by which the latter is actuated.
The return motion is produced by a spring attached in any convenient
manner. This lever effects only the lateral slide and consequently
the lateral movement of the feed grip. Its vertical motion is caused
by a barrel cam on the same main shaft as the other, which barrel
cam gives vibration to the crank of a second lever self-rocking on
a portion of itself which passes laterally through and pivots in the
upper part of the cleft lug. Upon that portion which is in the cleft
is fastened a vibrating arm forming the lifting arm of the lever. This
arm or finger takes hold of or enters the lower limb of the griffe or
feed piece, which in this modification is one with the griffe and forms
the vertical slide of the compound motion of the feed. This vertical
slide plays in a slide way sunk in the converse side of the lateral slide
running upon the race ridge surface, which with the under surface
of the platform form with the plate the lateral slide chamber, of
which the plate affords the floor and front side, and the indicated
parts of the machine body the roof and rear side. The finger then
actuates the carrier, moving it vertically up and down with positive
motion both ways according to the configuration and time given to
the barrel cam which imparts to it its motion. The forward motion
of the lateral slide imparted through the vertical lever by the heart.
cam while the carrier is lifted up by the action of the barrel cam then
causes the grip surface to advance and move forward the substance
seized between it and the under side of the presser foot. By a reversible
catch stud inserted in the cam shaft the effect of the cam motion may
at will be reversed so as to feed forward or backward the material being
sewn. Also the race ridge. may be enlarged so as. to receive the slid
bar instead of carrying it in a portable box, and the cleft lug for
attachment to be dispensed with.
the
The foregoing relates to what we called "case" or "box feeds;
modifications of this head of the Invention comprise also (so called)
*skeleton feeds," and an intermediate description adaptable as skeleton
feeds, or to cases, or case covers as box feeds.

page_text: · The intermediate description I proceed next to provisionally describe,
some of the modifications being adaptable to the usual double heart cam,
and some to the special application of a barrel cam in combination, as
described in-preceeding.
The next following contemplates the compound slide principle first
mentioned, and may be adapted to skeleton arrangement that is to work
uncovered, or to box feed that is within or under a case in whole or
in part receiving the working parts, or merely a cover suitable to preserve
the heretofore approved general contour of the machine, and to be
attached to the usual cleft lug of the machine frame in replacement
of the ordinary wheel feed: To the lug is thus attached by either of
the before-described methods a flat slide plate or slide carrier, which
if for skeleton can bear just the outline configureation requisite to carry
the working parts, or if for box feeds can be made in the before-
described lozenge form of the dimention usually borne by the displaced
wheel feed. In the upper portion of such slide carrier or of such lozenge-
shaped case is recessed the slideway for the horizontal slide bar which
in its turn carries the vertical slide bar or grip carrier, which last is
proposed to be operated vertically in the same manner as mentioned
in the paragraph preceeding; to effect the horizontal motion, however,
a vertical lever in a different but novel and simple arrangement is
employed. This vertical lever rocks on a pivot placed at the requisite
distance below the cleft lug stud, by which the case or frame is attached
to give it the proper throw with a reduced dimension of heart cam.
To the lower end of the vertical lever is pivoted a lateral connecting
bar through a lateral slot in the opposite end of which is passed the
cam shaft which is thus made to support it, the slot allowing sufficient
play for the lateral bar to reciprocate to the extent of the cam throw
which it receives, upon an adjustable sliding lug, which determines
the extent of the throw to be imparted to it by an adjusting screw
keyed, as, before described, by a jam nut or screw, and attached to
the sliding or connecting bar according to the position desired. This
also affords a simple, cheap, and effeciant form of applying the slide
feed principle.
Another modification employing in lieu of a barrel cam a double
heart cam actuating two levers in the front, and, like the last preceeding,
adaptable to a skeleton or to a feed box, and working the slide
principle, is provisionally described as follows:-In the frame plate

page_text: if a "skeleton," or in the case if a box feed is made a slideway for the
vertical slide, to which is imparted the requisite reciprocating vertical
movement by the vibration of a bell-crank lever rocked on a stud pivot
borne on the side nearest over the cam shaft of the frame, or of the
case, and actuated by the lift cam. The "vertical" thus becomes
the principle slide instead of the horizontal of which it becomes the
carrier in a slideway recessed in its upper limb, so that both the vertical
and horizontal slides move up and down together. A vertical lever
rocked on a stud pivot at the centre of the frame plate or of the case
and actuated at its lower end by the advance cam, takes by a stud
pin at its upper end into, and by its vibration giver motion to
the horizontal slide, which in turn carries the claw or grip piece.
The lower end of the vertical lever also carries an adjusting screw
and keyed nut for determining the amount of the cam throw to be
imparted to it, and consequently the length of the stitch. This arrange-
ment permits both the lever ends to be furnished with friction wheels to
receive the cam action, and the "claw". or "grip" piece, which some-
times requires renewal, to be made and hardened separately in a pièce
by itself that can be readily detached from or fastened to the slide
bar without removing the latter or dismounting the feed case.
"
Another modification, also employing a double heart cam, combines.
therewith a triple lever action whereby the combined action of three
levers pivoting together, the first into the second, and the second into
the third, by which is carried the grip, greatly multiplics the power and
substitutes the rocking motion of pivot centres for the friction of long
bearing slides, while it may be so arranged and timed as to secure a.
level action for the advance portion of the movement of the grip
surface. This also may be adapted to "box" or "skeleton" feed, it
being proposed to attach the skeleton frame or the box plate, as the case
may be, by a screwe keyed stud pin to the cleft lug of the frame in like
manner as before said. The "claw" or grip piece may in this also be
separate, admitting of separate hardening and finish, and of being adapted
as a swivel separately attached or removed for renewal when desired to
or from the feed carrier bar, which latter constitutes the third lever of
the series and together with the other two is preferred of steel, but it or
either of them may be made of any suitable material. The carrier bar
rocks on a pin placed in any convenient manner as near as practicable

page_text: 'to the further edge and to the level of the platform. It is preferred to
insert such pin across a slot cut in the usual support lug traversing
the shuttle race, which slot receives one end of the feed carrier bar,
which is itself slotted to receive and rock upon such pin with sufficient
play to admit the full extent of the advance motion of the carrier bar.
The carrier bar is actuated both in its upward and in its advance move-
ments by a vertical lever pivoting upon a lateral lever which rocks upon
the centre stud of the skeleton frame or of the box plate, the vertical lever
together with its fulcrum pivot moving up and down with the motion of
the lateral lever which carries it, and which is raised by the lift cam,
when the lower limb of the vertical lever is actuated by the advance cam
causing the reverse limb to the end of which is pivoted the carrier bar
to move in the opposite direction and advance with the claw in the
direction of the sewing done. The return motions being effected by a
spring the amount of throw communicated by the advance cam is
regulated by an adjusting screw and jam nut attached to the vertical
lever similarly to those previously described.
. A further developement in skeleton frame of this modification is
obtained by rocking the vertical lever directly over instead of at one side
of the cam shaft, and constructing its lower limb with a concentric oval
of sufficient dimensions to receive and have passed through it the cam
shaft, with sufficient play for the vibrations and oscillations of the lever,
which then receiving upon opposite lugs borne upon the rim of the open
oval surrounding the cam shaft the alternate throw of the advance cam
has imparted to it a positive motion in both its forward and backward
movement, the extent of which is regulated by the usual screw and jam
nut attachment.
Another developement of the triple lever combination in skeleton which
is very portable, light, and smooth in action is effected by biforking the
lateral lever and attaching to the lower fork head a wheel to play on the
lift cam, and to the upper fork head a grooved wheel to receive the
lower edge of the advance bar which plays lightly in it in place of
being pivoted, and receives also upon a roller carried upon a stud attached
to it the advance stroke of the vertical lever, the return motions of the
advance being effected by a spring. This is believed to. afford the lightest
weight and motion with the minimum of friction yet attainable.
Another development of skeleton feed with double lever arrangement

page_text: is effected by constructing the frame with an arm of suitable length to
carry a stud pivot sufficiently beyond the cam shaft for a cam thereupon
to rock upon such stud point, a lateral lever pivoting at its other end into
and carrying a vertical guided bar, which carries at its top end a cross
slide to carry the grip, the second lever pivoting on the vertically moving
guided bar and moving with it receives upon its lower limb the throw of
the advance cam, which by its opposite limb it imparts to the top cross
slide to which it is pivoted, and the amount of which can be regulated
by a sub slide carrying the pivot stud and adjusted and fixed by a screw
and jam nut. This permits the adjusting thumbscrew to be placed well
up under the platform, which is very desirable, and to mount both lever
ends played on by the cams with rollers,, by which arrangement is
obtained extreme softness and silence in the movements. This arrange-
ment may be substituted by pivoting the' first or carrying lever of
suitable form in a slot cut in the race way support lug, and furnishing it
with a sub slide for the grip and regulated by an adjusting screw.
Another modification in various development, as instanced in one,
employs but one lever aided by spring return motion to lift and advance
the "grip" carrying bar, which in such case is of course when rocked on
a pivot actuated as an intermediary or subsidiary lever; or, in others as
instanced the carrying bar becomes the lever and advance bar in one,
combining in itself the offices of all. In the former the grip piece is
swivelled or is fixed to the carrying advance bar which is pivoted, as
before instanced, at its further end in a slot cut in the further support
lug. This advance bar when raised lifting the "grip piece" and when
moved forward lengthwise in the direction of the line of the sewing
done advancing it to the length of stitch desired. It is to effect these
two movements of the carrying bar that this modification is applied.
In the first development instanced a stud pin is fixed in the carrying
bar, by means of which it is seized and moved by a peculiarly constructed
lever operated in the following manner:-This lever is rocked upon a
stud borne upon a simple frame or stay piece, one end of which may be
made to embrace and rest upon the cam shaft for greater firmness, while
the other is in the usual manner screw keyed upon the cleft lug before
mentioned. The lower limb of the lever receives motion from a cam of
suitable construction upon the cam shaft. The end of the other or
opposite limb of the lever is made with a double curve claw which
receives the stud of the carrying bar, while the opposite curves of the
'

page_text: double claw are spaced sufficiently apart to allow a certain amount of
travers after one of the claw curves leaves the stud and before it is
moved by the opposite claw curve. In the course of this traverse the
lever end between the claw curves bears against the stud in such form as
to operate like a cam action upon it, and to lift it when the continued
motion of the lever brings the other claw curve to bear against and
carry along the stud and with it of course the advance bar, so that in
one continuous forward vibration of the lever it both lifts and then
advances the feed, and by the vibration of spring movement effects the
opposite return motions. When the stud is instead attached to a double
slide the subsidiary lever action is of course dispensed with and the direct
action of the prime lever only employed.
The other development instanced of this modification employs but a
simple lever consisting of the advance bar itself pivoted as those before
described on a pin in a slot cut in the farthest support lug and as near
the platform level as possible, the motive being to obtain as near a true
vertical motion as possible in the rise and fall of the grip piece, which
is attached in any convenient manner to the proper portion of the bar.
From the portion of the bar above the cam shaft depends a limb which
receives the throw of the lift cam which raises it to the position of a truc
level for the advance. The bar also carries an adjustable slide regulated
by adjusting screw and jam nut, which slide has a depending leg which
receives the forward throw of the advance cam, by the direct action of
which upon the leg the whole carrying bar frame is advanced hori-
zontally by sliding along or upon the pin which pivots (with a bearing
slide when preferred) in the slot made in the end of the bar of sufficient
length to admit of the amount of slide motion required. In this
arrangement the use of the cleft lug as a means of attachment is dis-
pensed with. This is considered the simplest and cheapest feed apparatus
of the entire class of "griffe" or "claw" feeds.
One more development of this modification completing this head of
the Invention is instanced. The carrying bar is made to depend upon
two studs fixed in the outer front of the shuttle race ridge, one on each
side of the centre cleft, received each in a friction slide in one of two
slots made in the bar to allow of sufficient play for the amount of
advance motion desired. This bar is made one with a frame piece
depending low enough to receive upon an adjustable slide at its lower
end the direct motion of the forward throw of the advance cam. The

page_text: advance cam acts directly upon the lower of two parallel motion bars,
serving as levers, which carry perpendicularly a grip carrying bar to
which the grip piece is attached; the whole apparatus slides bodily
forward with each advance movement. The return motion being
'effected by spring action. This is a light, powerful, and very efficient
apparatus..
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Charles Forster Waldo, in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 1st December 1869..
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, CHARLES
FORSTER WALDO, of No. 13, Bread Street, Cheapside, in the City of
London, Importer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the First day of June; in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-nine, in the thirty-
second
1 year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give
and grant unto me, the said Charles Forster Waldo, Her special licence
that I, the said Charles Forster Waldo, my executors, administrators,
and assigns, or such others as I, the said Charles Forster Waldo, my
executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with,
and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the
term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise,
and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the
Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
SEWING MACHINES," a communication to me from abroad by Tony Tricoire,
of the City of Paris, in the Empire of France, upon the condition
(amongst others) that I, the said Charles Forster Waldo, my executors
or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or one
of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain the
nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be
performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent
Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the date
of the said Letters Patent.
NOW. KNOW YE, that I, the said Charles Forster Waldo, do hereby

page_text: is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in an
by the following statement thereof, that is to say :-
This Invention relates to certain "Improvements in Sewing Machines,
and consists of improvements in various constituent parts of sewing
machines, which improvements may be separately applied and used, o
may be more or less combined in one machine, and comprises several
licads and various modifications thereof, herein described, as follows:-
The first head relates to what is called and known as the "tension."
· The second relates to what is called and known as the "threading of
the machine.
The third relates to the adjustment of the needle to the shuttle race.
The fourth relates to guarding the needle against breakage by the
shuttle nose.
The fifth relates to the raising and to the turning the presser foot.
The sixth relates to what is called and known as the "feed."
These improvements will be clearly understood by reference to the
accompanying Sheets of Drawings in connection with the following
description :-
The first part of the said improvements is represented in Figures 1, 2,
3, 4, 5, 6, & 7, of the Drawings, Sheet 1.
The second part is represented in Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8,
Sheet 1 of the Drawings.
The third part is represented in Figures 8, Sheet 1, of the Drawings..
The fourth part is represented in Figures 13 and 14, of the Drawings,
also in Figures 36 and 37.
.
The fifth part is represented in Figures 9, 10, 11 and 12 of the Drawings.
And the sixth part is represented in Figures 15 to 29, Sheet 2, of
the Drawings, and Figures 30 to 35, Sheet 3.
Figures 1, 2 and 3, Sheet 1, represent one modification of the first
head of this Invention, according to which the upper or sewing thread
of the machine is passed over and under the convolutions of a smooth
wire shaped so as to receive the thread in a disposition similar to that it
would occupy if passed through the holes of a perforated plate while
the thread can be thus disposed upon it by holding one end of it in the
hand and alternating it over and under the convoluted wire which then
receives pressure from a spring plate which presses it down upon the

page_text: tension plate bed but according to the degree of tension and force required,
by means of turning a thumbscrew which forces it down upon the tension
plate bed. Figure 1 represents the shape in plan of the convoluted wire
as it lays in its place on the tension plate bed. Figure 2 represents the
form in plan of the spring plate when in its place above the wire.
Figure 3 is a side view in which the three are seen together in position.
Upon the tension plate bed a rests the convoluted wire flatways,
shewing the position of the thread alternating over and under the con-
volutions of the wire b, upon which last presses the presser plate c, being
screwed down to its place by the thumbscrew d, around which screw the
head of the tension wire is wound, serving the tension wire for a shank
pivot; the presser plate is farther kept steady in its place by the steady
pin e which it receives through a slot f, allowing for lengthwise play
for the depression and elevation of the presser plate. The steady pin e
also serves as a point or resistance for the tension wire, which should be
of a fine spring temper, and at its outermost end is turned up slightly
so as when in position to catch and bind against the outer side of the
spring plate at its end with a slight pressure, so that upon being released
therefrom by slightly raising with the thumb the outer end of the spring
plate it flies out into position similar to that indicated by the dotted
lines g, when the thread can be anew run over it, and it can then be
again thrust back threaded into its place without altering or disturbing
the already adjusted pressure fixed upon the presser plate.
Figures 4 and 5 represent a second modification of the first head of
the Invention; Figure 4 shewing an end view, and Figure 5 a side
view, according to which a frame a carrying two pressing discs b, b, is
made so as to be attached to that part of the machine which in the
last previous instance served as a tension plate bed, and is borne by the
frame and neck (shewn in section i, i,) of the machine and which is
fitted to receive it, being simply capped on to the tension plate bed and
there secured by the screw c. The two discs b, b, are held together by the
pressure of a bent spring d and are made to separate against the force of
the spring d by the thumbscrew e which on being turned forward forces
them apart; when the proper adjustment is attained it is secured by the
jam nut f the two discs b, b, present their flat surfaces to each other,
carrying between them a convoluted wire g, which can be swung round
upon the pivot h from between the discs b, b, in order to alternate the

page_text: sewing thread over its convolution, wen
PARCO
operating in a manner similar to that of the last preceding to give
tension to the thread.
Figures 6 and 7 represent another modification; Figure 6 an end
view and Figure 7 a side view, also intended to be borne by a like frame
similarly attached to the neck as in the preceding instance and wherein
the two faces of the discs b, b, alone are used to give tension to the
thread. The discs b, b, are sustained or carried on a centre stud ; which
is attached to or forms part of the frame a. A yielding pressure is
communicated to the discs b, b, by the curved spring / which rides
entirely across their cumference and is forced down upon them by the
thumbscrew e, which is also served with a jam nut f. A feature of this
modification is the leading the thread under the two guide pins / which
may be attached in any convenient manner to the tension holder, and
are shewn one at each side of the discs b, b, in Figure 7, Sheet 1. By
this arrangement the operator is enabled to load along the thread in
threading up the tension without having to pass through holes, and it
is compelled to draw fair across the pressing surface of the discs b, b.
After leaving the tension apparatus the thread is then led through the
guiding gear called the threading up of the machine, and which is so con-
trived that it may be led through them without the necessity of passing
the end of the thread through holes, it next passes first through the
regulator m, Figure 8, Sheet 1, and next through the thread guide n, of
the needle bar o; these are formed of wire spiral, so that by holding
the thread one end in each hand and leading it into the spiral it runs
through them as through a tube, it is next led through the tako up
spring p on the front of the box plate, which is in like manner made
into a spiral passage way and can be threaded in the same manner, then
next over the take up bits q, q, which were formerly like a staple, through
which the end of the thread was passed which are now made of suffi-
cient length to answer the same purpose and are left open for the thread
to freely pass, the thread is next led through the spiral guide rat the
foot of the needle bar o in lieu of the hole or eye formerly used and which
was almost as difficult to thread as the needle to which by this arrange-
ment the thread has now been led as has just been described and which
presents the first hole through which the end of the thread requires to
be put or according to the old phrase threaded, and which comes under

page_text: the second head of this Invention. The adjustment of the needle is in
this class of machines effected by the rocking the box plate head which
heretofore has been operated by the force of a volute spring which in
practise presented many objections. According to the third head of this
Invention the rocking of the box plate head is effected by the employment
of a compound or double hollow screw 8, Figure 8, Sheet 1, comprising
one screw t working within another 8, so that the positive motion of the
sorew actuates the movement of the slide box head and with more
precision than the varying spring motion of the volute. One screw
acting to check or counteract with similar yet truer result to that of the
screw used to check or counteract the force of the volute. To those
conversant with this class of machine the view of the Drawing in con-
nection with this description will afford a perfect explanation of this.
part of the Invention.
Figures 13, 14, Sheet 1, and 36, 37, Sheet 3, represent the construction
of the improved "needle guard," according to the fourth head of the-
Invention, shewing only fragmental portions of the machine sufficient to.
clearly illustrate them to those conversant with these machines. shewing-
the position of the needle guard and the gear connected with it relatively
to the shuttle race, the needle holding slot, the cleft lug of the
machine frame, and the well known apparatus for rocking it by a barrel.
cam upon the cam shaft by means of the pivotted lever u, Figure 13, &c.,.
which has its bearings at w. Directly across both limbs of the cleft
v; v, upon the spindle of the lever u, is keyed within the cleft of the.
cleft lug the needle guard carrier x, which is also shaped to be in one
piece with the feed lifter y (herein-after referred to in describing the
feeds), so that the two both rock together with the oscillations of the
lever u, actuated by the barrel cam generally called the guard cam.
The needle guard z, Figure 37, fits into and actuates a sliding flange a,.
Figures 37, made to play in the bottom of the race way, and imparts to it
a reciprocating motion by which it is caused to advance against the
needle at the proper time of the needle's movement to hold it in its.right
place clear of the. shuttle at the moment when the shuttle advances to
enter the loop of the needle thread and pass close along it, whereby the
needle, unless. thus guided, is of course often hit by the shuttle nose, and
much breakage of needles has resulted from this cause. Figure 36,
Sheet 3, represents another arrangement whereby the guard carrier is

page_text: connected with and made to operate a transpierced cymmtrical piece o
placed in the bottom of the shuttle race, which piece b receives the needle
and is turned upon it, so as to bind or hold it from deflecting into the
shuttle race. Figures 13, 14, shew still another, whereby it operates a
rocking nipper c,which when advanced nips upon and holds the needle
in its proper place.
Figures 9, 10, 11, and 12, Sheet 1, represent, according to the fifth
head of this Invention, the improvements for raising the presser foot, also
for turning it about away from the sewing when desired, shewing only
such fraginental portions of the machine as may suffice to illustrate the
particular part. Figure 9 represents a side view of the box head being
the side which carries the presser bar. Figure 10, a front view of the
box head with portions removed in order to represent in connection
therewith the new arrangements added to the machine for raising the
presser bar, according to this part of the Invention. Figure 11
represents a portion of the base of the neck and standard at the opposite
end of the machine, shewing the attachments for the other end of this
part of the new lifting apparatus. Figure 12 represents a sufficient
portion disowise of the barrel cam which actuates the needle bar to
illustrate the additional cam attached thereon for actuating the additional
new apparatus. This additional cam f, borne by the barrel cam e,
operates the connecting rod g, Figure 11, which by means of the lever
arm h, to which it is attached, communicates a reciprocating motion to
the spindle or rod i, which rod traverses the distance thence to the slide
box in which its other end has its bearing at the front end of the
machine as seen in Figure 9. At this end the rod 9 carries and works
another lever or crank arm j, which is attached to and actuates the
lifter k, which lifter has at each of its upper and lower ends a projecting
arm l, m, which respectively take under the top n and bottom p studs
attached to and borne by the presser bar o, so that those studs. rest and
bear upon the projecting arms l, m; it follows that upon the reciprocation
of the crank arm j by the rod i, by means of the added cam f, the lifter k
is proportionally raised, carrying with it and lifting by means of the
studs n, p, the presser bar o, so as that the presser foot is thereby
automatically raised from off of the sewing at that point of the operation
desired. For raising the presser bar at will by hand a peculiar formed
lever serving as a lifter q is attached to the top of the slide box, pivotting

page_text: upon the stud r, so that by reason of its special form it by the same
sweep can by means of the stud n, which rests upon it, both raise the
presser bar and after it is sufficiently lifted turn it about, so as to
cause the presser foot to be also turned away when desired from the
sewing.
Figure 15, Sheet 2, is a front view; Figure 16 is a right end view;
Figure 17 is a top view, and Figure 18 is a back view of the first modi-
fication of the sixth head of this Invention, consisting of a special
adaptation of what is called the "compound slide feed," by means of.
which what is known as the "four-motion feed," and now also called
the "griffe feed," is made to move in true right angle directions, and
consequently to present always true square surfaces to meet the yielding
pressure of the foot and grip, and move along the substance passed
between them to be sewn. It is portable and is made interchangeable
with and therefore adapted to replace the portable wheel feed heretofore
used in this description of machine when the latter is removed from
the machine so that the operator is enabled at will to mount the
machine either with a "wheel feed" or with a "griffe feed," according as
may be desired. The same letters and figures of reference are used to
represent the same parts in each Figure having reference to the same
modification or apparatus.
Figure 19, Sheet 2, represents the interior work as seen looking at the
rear with the back plate removed. a represents the external case or
body of this modification of the portable "griffe feed," which carries the
lever b, which rocks at c, at one end of the lateral slide d of the compound
slide, which lateral slide has a play as seen in Figure 19, Sheet 2. This
lever 6 has an opening e, sufficient for the stud pin f, by which the
portable feed is keyed to the cleft lug v, v, of the frame of the sewing
machine to pass through and admit of free play of the lever around it in
every part of its movement. A projecting rim around this opening e fits
into and is received by the vertical slide g, which slides in vertical grooves
contained in and is carried by the lateral slide d, so that in whatever
position of the lateral slide d, which carries the lever b, the rocking of
the lever & will cause the vertical slide g to move in its slide ways up or
down relatively to the lateral slide d. To the other limb of the lever b
is attached an adjusting gear, shown in Figures 15, 17, and 18, adjusted
by the regulating screw h, which is provided with a jam screw i by

page_text: which it is secured firmly at the adjustment fixed upon. This adjusting
gear consists of a slide j and frame k, which by the operation of the
adjusting screw h are caused to extend or diminish the space in which
plays the cams and cam shaft s, so as to effect a feed motion from
nothing up to about one-third of an inch, or that is giving about three
stitches to an inch. The cams in this modification actuate the lever
by "positive" motion, the lifting cam m lifts the end of the lever to
the extent shewn at 1 in Figure 19, the advance camp striking upon the
Jug n advances the end of the lever in the direction and to the extent
seen at 2, Figure 19; the lift cam m in its further rotation with "positive"
motion next causes it to descend in the direction seen at 3, and the
counterthrow of the advance camp striking upon the opposite lug o,
returns the lever n again in the direction 4 to its starting point, and by
the proportional operation of these four movements upon the compound
slides d and g cause the griffe plate q, which is attached to the vertical
slide g, to describe in space the parallelagram course [above and in its
proper place in the platform of the machine], as seen in the reduced
parallelagram 1, 2, 3, 4, shewn in Figure 19.
Figure 20 represents a front view with the top plate or lid removed
of a second modification under this head of the Invention; Figure 21,
represents a back view, and Figure 22 an end view of the same. In this
modification the lateral feed motion is obtain by direct action of a
sliding bar a, called the "advance bar," which has at its extremity a
depending limb b, which carries and receives upon a projecting lug c
the stroke of the advance cam d. By means of the regulating screw e,
(which as in the preceding modification is also provided with a jam
screw f;) this advance bar a can be adjusted to hold at any desired throw
the griffe piece carrier 9,9, which slides laterally in bearings at h, h; in
this figure it is represented screwed up to its full throw and moves to
the same extent as the advance bar a is actuated by the advance cam d.
By withdrawing the regulating screw e its motion may be reduced to a
minimum. This griffe piece carrier g,g, receives in a vertical slide
way i, i, the vertical sliding "griffe" or "feed" carrier; of which it then
becomes the "holder." The feed carrier j, by means of the projecting
toe %,
is actuated by tho feed lifter y, shewn in Figure 14.
Figure 23, represents another modification of feed by which the
lateral feed motion is effected by a vertical bar k, rocked from the cam
shaft 8.

page_text: Figure 24 represents another modification of which the lateral motion,
is also worked by a vertical lever k, the lateral slide being carried in a
vertical sliding holder 2, to which the requisite motion is communicated
by a second lever m, operated by a separate lift cam, also from the cam
shaft 8.
Figure 25 is another modification in skeleton feed in triplex or or three
lever combination, the first lever 12 rocks upon a centre stud f, and is
actuated by a suitable lift cam from the cam shaft 8, this first lever n
carries a second lever o, which rocks upon the stud p, and is attached by
another pivot q to the third lever " which rocks upon a stud pin t, in
one of the lugs of the machine frame and carries at its other end the
griffe piece holder u the second lever o is actuated by a suitable advance
cam also from the cam shaft 8.
Figure 26, represents another modification of triplex lever, and
Figure 27, still another, the operation of which after the preceding
descriptions will be completely explained and understood by reference
to the Drawings.
Figure 28, another modification, in which the lever n is rocked upon
the stud o, carrying at the other extremity a vertical lateral slide piece
carrier w, on which swings also by the stud x the lever o, by their
combind operation effecting the vertical and lateral movements of the
griffe feed, as shown by the Drawing.
.
Figure 29 represents another modification by which a single segmental
shaped lever n, rocking in the lug on the stud t, carried within itself,
the lateral slide, both being actuated by suitable cams, also the cam
shaft 8, the operation of which will be understood by reference to the
Drawing.
Figures, 30, 31, and 32, Sheet 3, another modification, and Figures 33,
34, and 35, Sheet 3, another and last modification of the feed, the
operation of which, after all the preceding description, will be perfectly
understood by reference to the Drawings.
Having now described this Invention, and necessarily used to illustrate
the same various parts of machinery already known and used, and to
which I make no claim, I desire it to be understood that I claim the
construction, arrangement, and combination of parts and method of
driving severally described under the six different heads herein-before

page_text: recited, or the equivalents thereof, whether applied in one machine.
together or separately.
In witness whereof, I, the said Charles Forster Waldo, have here-
unto set my hand and seal, this First day of December, in the
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-nine.
CHAS. F. WALDO. (L.S.)