AN IMPROVED SETTING FOR. JEWELLERY AND OTHER ARTICLES
Year: 1884

page_text: I, HENRY HARRIS LAKE, of. the firm of Haseltine, Lake & Co, Patent. Agents,
Southampton Buildings in the County of Middlesex do hereby declare the nature
of my Invention for "AN IMPROVED SETTING FOR. JEWELLERY AND OTHER
ARTICLES" and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by. the following statement:-
"Settings constructed according to this Invention are unlike any prior settings"
of which I have cognizance, and are readily distinguishable therefrom. They are
susceptible of use in connection with many articles such as breast pins, ear rings,
shawl pins, clasps, buttons, buckles or the like.
The novel settings may be included with those general classes which embrace
opaque stones and the various imitations thereof; but having reference to profit
alone, they 'have their greatest value in connection with the manufacture of
comparatively cheap goods, wherein imitations of stone or jet are desirable.
or.
The object of my Invention is to impart to settings, whether of stone, or of jet
imitations thereof, certain strikingly novel effects which, as I believe, have
never before been obtained, and more--especially to cause them to resemble a
certain variety of textile fabric commonly known as English crape, although not
limited to any special color, and my Invention comprises a setting composed of
stone; glass or other imitative friable material or compound, having a practically
lustreless surface, and in whole or in part covered with practically parallel
corrugations, with or without being also laterally scored in fine and practically
parallel lines.
To more particularly describe my Invention I will refer to the accompanying
Drawings, in which,.
Figure 1 illustrates in front view and in cross section a setting as made for use
in a bar pin.
t
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Figure 2 illustrates in front view and in cross section one of the settings for use
in an ear-ring or button.
Figures 3, 4 and 5 illustrate in similar views a set of settings for use in a bar
pin and ear rings.
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page_text: Figure 6 illustrates in similar views, a setting for use in a clasp, buckle or
⚫ breast pin.
Figure 7 is a view drawn to an enlarged scale of a portion of the central part of
the setting shown in Figure 3.
In each of the illustrations a indicates one of many corrugations, arranged in
series side by side, and embracing either the entire surface of the setting as seen
in Figures 1. 2. 4 and 6, or grouped in portions or divisions thereof as seen in
Figures 3 and 5. The said corrugations as seen in Figure 1 may be practically
straight, and either longitudinal, lateral or diagonal as shown, or they may be in
waved lines as in Figure 6, or as in Figure 3, both varieties of lines may be
intermingled or employed in separate sections. In all cases the said corrugations
constitute an essential feature in the construction of the improved settings, and as
another means for obtaining the best results the said corrugations are more or less
regularly scored laterally, with the finer cross lines or corrugations b, which are
also practically parallel.
Whether the fine cross-lines are employed or not it is essential that the
corrugated surface of the setting be practically lustreless, or in other words have a
"dead finish" practically incapable of reflecting light.
It is wholly immaterial by what process or processes the main and the
subordinate or auxiliary corrugations are developed, it being obvious that they
must vary according to the character of the materials employed in their production,
as, for instance, if onyx or other natural solid stone be used, the said corrugations
must be developed by cutting operations, whether by the use of tools, abrasive
matter or corrosive acids. If glass or silicious compounds with mineral or metal
fluxes be employed, or compounds containing flinty gums of which shellac and
sandrac are familiar types, or simple natural bodies, such as cannel coal, all of
which are well known to be capable of. being reduced to a semi-plastic or plastic
condition, my settings are produced in moulds or dies in which the general form of
the setting is provided for as well as the main and the auxiliary corrugations a
and b, all in an obvious and well known manner, and as practised for producing
settings of other kinds. The material having been first made plastic by heat,
when cooled in a die its normal hard and friable characteristics.
resumes,
However my settings as thus far described may have been produced, they must,
as an essential feature thereof, possess as herein before stated, a practically
lustreless surface, and this is also variably provided for according-to-the-materials-
employed or the particular method by which the corrugations may have been
developed As, for instance, if it be a solid stone setting, the cutting tools, or the
abrasive matter, or the corrosive acids, (if either or all be employed for developing
the corrugations) will, in each instance, as a rule develope a lustreless surface, but
in order that said surface shall be uniform in its character, I subject it evenly to
the action of the corrosive acids.
In the case of glass or other siliceous material it is obvious that the necessarily
finely finished surfaces of the moulds or dies, will impart to the glass a corre-
spondingly brilliant or light-reflecting surface, and the settings so formed are
therefore subjected to the action of corrosive acids, such as, fluoric acid, by which
the surface is rendered lustreless.
As seen in Figures 3 and 5, it is sometimes desirable that certain portions of a
setting have a glossy polished or light-reflecting surface, as indicated at the
bands c, and these are provided for in a manner well known, by applying resistants
such as a film of bees'-wax or varnish at those points on the surface to protect them
from the action of the acid while in the bath.
If the settings be composed of bog, or cannel coal, or of compounds embodying
flinty adhesive gums such as shellac, sandrac, or even glue, their surfaces will (if
not prevented) partake of the polished character of the moulds or dies, and it is
obvious that corrosive acids cannot be generally relied upon in the treatment of
such settings for Fendering then lustreless, because of the liability, in some cases,
of the undue destructive action thereof, as well as in other cases to the presence of

page_text: gummy matters in themselves capable of resistance to the acid, and therefore other
means must be employed; as, for instance, by coating the interiors of the moulds
with a film of carbon, say in the form of lamp-black, applied by exposure to a
lighted candle, or by lightly dusting, the mould with an impalpable powder of
any material corresponding in color with the materials of which the settings are
composed.
It is obviously immaterial under my Invention how the settings are constructed
with reference to their convenient application to the other portions of articles in
which they are, or may be, employed, although I have in each case illustrated a
rabbeted back for enabling them to be entered and secured in the usual way in a
chambered plate, but it is to be understood that in the moulded varieties a stem,
stub, or frame of any desired form composed of metal, may be imbedded into the
setting during the moulding operation in a manner not new with other types of
moulded settings, whereby they may be securely attached to the articles of which
they are to be made a part.
The novel settings may be produced in various colors, and each may be composed
of apparent or actual sections in different colours, it being obvious that these
variations involve no departure from my Invention.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that I claim
In or for jewellery, buttons, and similar articles, a setting composed of stone,
glass, or other friable materials or compounds, having a practically lustreless
surface, and in whole or in part covered with practically parallel corrugations,
substantially as described.
HASELTINE, LAKE & Co.,
For the Applicant.