Improvements in the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes.
Year: 1891

page_text: Date of Application, 30th Nov., 1891
Complete Specification Left. 18th Feb., 1892-Accepted, 26th Mar., 1892
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes.
1, HENRY WOODING of Pytchley Street, Northampton in the County of
Northampton, Boot and Shoe Manufacturer do hereby declare the nature of this
invention to be as follows:-
:―
My invention relates to the soles of boots and shoes and its object is to so
construct them that they shall be perfectly waterproof and also very light and
durable without in any way altering the general appearance of the boot or shoe.
For this purpose I manufacture the soles in the following manner using preferably
Goodyear welting machine. The upper is first attached to the insole in the
usual way and I then sew on to the latter two welts placed together one over the
other and extending as far as the heel portion of the sole. The lower welt is then.
trimmed off so as to be flush with the upper the second welt being thus allowed to
project slightly forming the rand.
The bottoni or space surrounded by the welts is then filled in with cork cut to the
required shape and size, the sole is put on and stitched in the usual way thus
forming a light and pliable boot. Or I may use a single welt and split the edge
thereof cutting away the lower portion so as to form the rand or I may sew two
welts in separately forming a rand in the fore part only if desired.
Dated this 30th day of November 1891.
1
POPPLEWELL & Co.,
17 & 18, Southampton Buildings, London, W.C.,
Agents for the Applicant.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes.
I HENRY WOODING of Pytchley Street Northampton in the County of
Northampton Boot and Shoe Manufacturer do hereby declare the nature of this
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly.
described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
Heretofore it has not been found practicable to produce boots and shoes sewn by
machinery with rand cork resembling that produced by "hand made means.
"
My invention has for its object the manufacture of a welted boot, or shoe,
produced by machine welting machine, such by preference as the "Goodyear
Welting Machine" (a machine well known in the trade by that name), and having
a rand cork presenting the same appearance as the rand cork of a boot or shoe of
"hand make," whilst provision is afforded for the proper introduction of a layer of
cork or equivalent damp resisting material between the inner sole and the outer
sole.
The upper leather is attached to the "inner" sole in usual or convenient
manner and I then sew thereto a double welt at one operation so that the one half
thereof may be removed by cutting away, thereby forming a "rand" cork leaving
the remaining half for usual attachment to the outer sole to enclose the "water-
proof," or damp resisting interposed surface.
Fig. 1, of the accompanying drawings, shews an underside view of a boot upper
attached to an inner sole in usual manner and ready for welting.
66
::
Fig. 2 is a like view of the prepared upper and "innersole" with the
double" welt sewn thereto and the hollow space left within the line of welt and
above the inner sole fitted with damp proof matter, here indicated as cork.

page_text: Fig. 3 is a side view of a boot upper with double welt having its inner or lower
half welt or lower welt partially removed by cutting to form the rand cork
appearance desired.
:
Fig. 4 shews such a boot when finished and heeled as may be produced by the
described method.
at is the." upper" leather and lining. is the inner sole, e is the cork filling, dis
the inner or lower welt--as it rests on the "last" in manufacture-and e is the
outer or upper welt. indicates the threads of the sewing attaching the double
welt to the "upper" and to the inner sole. d in Fig. 3 indicates a portion of the
waste being severed from the inner or under welt d, leaving only a slightly pro-
jecting portion thereof shewing beyond the "
upper leather.
g is the heel, and
the outsole amalgamated with the other parts into a completed boot.
The superfluous material d' will be removed by means of a knife of usual or
convenient form.
Although have shown a boot, it will be clear that a shoc, will be made up so
far as regards the present invention in like manner and although I have indicated
the rand cork as extending from heel to toe, it may extend any lesser distance that
may be preferred, by simply employing shorter welts than the length indicated in
Fig. 2 or any convenient length.
In practice I find the double welt to be best attained by two single welts being
superposed one over the other and secure by usual sewing through the combined
two welts and the parts they are thereby attached to, as a double welt attained by
means of a thick welt split and having its upper edge pared away to produce the
rand," leaves a welt for attachment to the outer sole generally insufficiently
strong for the best results, but in some qualities of goods I may so attain the double
1
welt.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is:
1. In a welted boot or shoe the combination with the "upper" the inner sole,
the damp-proof filling and the outer sole, of the double welt sewn in at one
operation and having the projecting edge of the "lower" welt trimmed off to form
a rand cork, substantially as set forth.
2. In a welted boot or shoe the combination with the "upper," inner sole, the
outer sole and other usual parts of a rand cork produced by the trimming off of
the inner or "lower" of two welts sewn in at one operation in the manufacture of
the boot or shoe, substantially as set forth.
3. The herein described method of forming the rand cork of a boot or shoe by
first sewing in at one operation two superposed welts and then trimming off the
greater portion of the projecting edge of the inner or lower welt, as set forth.
4. The manufacture of boots and shoes so as to produce a rand cork as set forth.
Dated the 18th day of February 1892.
WM. BROOKES & SON,
55 & 56, Chancery Lane, London, Agents for the Applicant.