Improvements in the Manufacture of Plush, Figured Velvet, and like Fabrics.
Year: 1897

page_text: Date of Application, 27th Mar., 1897-Accepted, 12th June, 1897
Improvements in the Manufacture of Plush, Figured Velvet, and
like Fabrics.
A communication by EMIL THOMAS, of 18 Alexanderplatz, Crefeld, in the
Empire of Germany, Velvet Manufacturer.
1, WILLIAM PHILLIPS THOMPSON, F.C.S., M.I.M.E., of The Agency for
Foreign Patent Solicitors, 6, Lord Street, Liverpool, and 6, Bank Street,
Manchester, both in the County of Lancaster, 118 New Street, Birmingham in
the County of Warwick, and 322 High Holborn in the County of Middlesex,
Civil Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement :-
This invention relates to the manufacture of plush, figured velvet and like fabrics
and has for its object a process whereby the glossy weft which in itself is a some-
what valuable material is less covered by the warp threads. This process therefore
consists in a peculiar arrangement of the ground which is so made that as much
weft material as possible is drawn to the upper side of the fabric. There has
hitherto been employed as weft material for such fabrics either a semi-woollen,
semi-silk or the like weft and a drawback has up to the present existed in the weft
material being too much covered by the warp threads.
Figure 1 of the accompanying drawings shows the new pattern and it is apparent
therefrom without further explanation that the glossy weft material lies more on
the upper side than on the under. For making such a fabric, as is apparent from
the pattern, three or four shafts are necessary.
Figures 2 and 3 show the arrangement of the shafts together with the insertion
in a power loom, whilst,
Figure 4 shows the arrangement for hand working.
The shafts 1, 2, 3, 4 with their warp threads 5 produce the ground weave, whilst
the shaft 6 operates the pile threads 7.
Figure 5 shows the insertion, the pattern at the right showing precisely the
rising (or upward movement) of the warp threads and pile or loop threads, the
black squares indicating the rising of the warp and pile threads, whilst the square
marked with a X explains the insertion of the wire.
From consideration of Figure 1 .it is apparent that the fabric is made by only
one shaft of four being raised on the first and third picks, whereby it is possible to
obtain the above mentioned effect of the glossy weft. According to the pattern,
at the first pick, for instance, one shaft moves upward and three downward. On
the second pick, two rise and two descend. On the third pick, one shaft is raised
and three descend. On the fourth pick one shaft is raised and three descend.
Thus the weft threads always lie more on the surface than do those of the warp.
Figures 2 and 3 show the arrangement on a mechanical loom which weaves
double goods, a is the upper goods, b the under goods and c the pile threads and
all three goods are each conveyed separately to the shafts from a separate beam.
The shafts 1-8 move in double succession corresponding to Figures 4 and 5,
whilst shaft 9 moves the pile threads according to the pattern. Figure 3 indicates
the insertion in the upper and under goods, u being the shafts for the under goods,
o those for the upper goods and i the pile shaft. It must first be noted what great

page_text: advantage the process hereinbefore described has over the present practice,
especially as people are concerned in such fabrics to always obtain a pure glossy
ground, there being produced a much more valuable and yet in itself cheaper
product, as by the peculiar rising and sinking of the shafts less of the valuable
weft material is covered, in fact only as much as is necessary for the binding in,
and this binding in is here so moderate that the fabric gains considerably in
appearance.
.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, as communicated to me by
my foreign correspondent, I declare that what I claim is :-
A process for producing a new kind of ground weave for plush, figured velvet
and like fabrics, characterised by the separate shafts being moved in such a way
that on each first and third pick only one shaft of four is raised whilst the others
remain lowered, the inserted glossy weft being bound in in such a way that the
inserted weft yields a ground fabric glossy in all parts whereby a fabric is produced
having a better appearance and the possibility is afforded of employing a more
valuable weft material for the ground weave, substantially as hereinbefore set
forth.
Dated this 26th day of March 1897.
WM. P. THOMPSON, & Co.,
Agents.