AN IMPROVED FORM OF EDGINGS AND THE APPARATUS USED IN MAKING THE SAME
Year: 1884

page_text: I, WILHELM FEHNTER, Manufacturer of Elberfeld, Rhenish Prussia, Germany do
hereby declare the nature of my invention for AN IMPROVED FORM OF EDGINGS
AND THE APPARATUS USED IN MAKING THE SAME to be as follows:-
The object of the invention is to produce "edgings for dresses, uniforms, boots etc.
in such a manner that a cord is laid inside them by machinery & that the folding
edges are glued together & then cut crossways in distances of about 1/8 of an inch
so that the edgings may be bent even in the smallest circles without causing folds
or crumples & when finished the edgings proper shall have the appearance of a
twisted cord.
In describing the improved edgings and the apparatus used in its manufacture
reference is made to the accompanying drawings in which:
Figs. 1, 2, & 3 show respectively a vertical section, a front view and a plan of
the folding machine.
Figs. 4 & 5 show front & side view of the cutting machine.
Fig. 6-12 show the folding boxes and various manners of adjusting the same in
the machine.
Fig. 13 & 14 show the foreguide of the ribbon.
Fig. 15, 16 & 17 show resp. the ribbon used for the new edgings & the edgings
coming from the folding machine & when quite finished & having passed the
cutting machine.
I use as raw material for my new edgings a woven ribbon, which in the middle
part, for a breadth corresponding to the circumference of the folding cord, is
tweeled, whereas its sides right & left are made in plain weaving or taffeta as is
indicated by Fig. 15. This ribbon is prepared on one side with a glue or similar
material which when getting hot softens & then glues, such as india-rubber glue etc.
It is then folded round the cord by the machine shown in Figs. 1, 2 & 3, heated
& pressed together and the free doubled part of it is passed through the cutting
machine where it is cut transversely close to the edge of the cord as shown by
Fig. 17.
The folding & glueing is done by the machine shown in Figs 1, 2 & 3.
This machine consists of two standards A, A¹ which carry two hollow rolls B, C.
One of these rolls is provided with a number of circular grooves & the other is quite
D

page_text: smooth. The rolls are made hollow that they can be heated by gas or by inserting
red hot bars of iron etc. The lower roll is set in motion either by hand, or by
preference by means of a pulley D, driven from an over head gear or by a treadle.
The upper roll is caused to turn round with the lower one by spurwheels fixed at
the end of the rolls & it is pressed down on the lower one by the hand wheels E &
screws F. In front of the rolls, pretty close to them is fastened a bar G (G¹, G")
which is provided with vertical longitudinal holes at both ends, so that the bar
can be set lower or higher as may be desired. The bar G is further provided
lengthways, horizontally with a slot H in which are set fast the "edging boxes " I
according to one or the other method described hereafter.
These "edging boxes" are made as follows:
In a solid piece of metal is cut a shaped hole X in such a manner, that the
sides of the are set wider apart at the entrance side (see Fig. 6 & 6) & that
they approach each other at the other side but that the total length of the hole-
(its circumference)-remains the saine. The boxes are also bored out by a round
hole Y which runs in an oblique line & starting nearly from the middle of the box,
at the open side, runs nearly into the corner. of the shaped hole at the other
side.
In front of the box-bar G & parallel to it is fastened a bar K; this is in proper
places cut out similar to the shaped holes in the edging boxes. It serves as a
foreguide for the ribbon.
The standards A are further provided with brackets L, which serve to carry the
bobbins M for the edging cords.
The method of fastening and adjusting the boxes I in bar G so that they
correspond exactly to the grooves in the roll C may be done in the following three
manners:
a) as shown by Figs. 6, 7 & 8.
Each box projects at both sides from the bar G
& is provided at the side opposite to the rolls with an eye N; by this eye it is stuck
on a round bar O in front of G; the bar O is screwed and by means of a nut &
counter nut, P, P¹ the box can be conveniently & exactly fixed to the desired
place.
b) as shown by Fig. 9 & 10. The boxes project here also at both ends from the
bar G & right & left to each box at about double the distance of their width are
fastened to the bar G' the little angle irons or brackets Q, Q' & between these
and the set screws R, R¹ the boxes are held fast & are adjusted to their proper
places.
c.) as shown by Figs. 11 & 12. Here the boxes may be flush with bar G" at the
front side & they are simply held & adjusted to their proper places by little set
screws S, which are screwed in the bar G" from the top.
The cutting machine is shown by Figs. 4 & 5.
It consists of a bracket T carrying the driving spindle U which on one side has
keyed to it the pulley V driven by any suitable gear. On the other side the cutting
dise W & the little spur wheel X are keyed to spindle U. The cutting disc
is made of steel & consists of a number of sharp teeth or knives worked in its
circumference as shown by Fig. 5. On the top of the cutting disc and set in motion
by the spur wheel X which is in gear with the wheel X" rolls the pressing roll or
disc Y This together with the wheel X" is carried in a little bracket Z which
can be pressed down by the set screw a.
The working of the machines described and the fabric produced by them is as
follows:
"
The specially woven ribbon with edges of taffeta weaving & the tweeled middle
part is glued on one side ns stated above with any suitable glue that gets soft when
heated. When dry again the ribbon is passed through the foreguide bar & through
the boxes where it is folded, so that it is brought to the rolls quite doubled up. At
the same time the cord coming from the bobbins M is passed through the boxes
which bring it just to the folding edge of the ribbon in front of the rolls so that in
drawing both through the rolls, the cord will be enclosed in the ribbon quite at the

page_text: folding edge. The cord thus wrapped in the ribbon will pass the rolls together
with the latter, where the grooves are cut so, that the other part can be pressed &
glued together by the heated rolls and the edging will come out of the machine in
the form shown by Fig. 16.
In this form however the edgings are not yet fit for use in all cases. In order to
be able to be turned round small circles they must be cut transversely to prevent
their folding or doubling up. They are therefore passed through the cutting
machine in such a manner, that the part with the cord in it passes the free space
between the knives & the spur wheel, whereas the other part must pass between
the knife roll & the pressure roll and so the edgings are cut as desired and
represent themselves as shown by Fig. 17 ready & fit for any use.
Edgings made heretofore of a material cut out from large pieces were of uniform
texture, they have not the nice appearance of a twisted cord as my improved
edgings; they could not be made of better material at the folding edge only, or of
various coulors in that part, except by making the sides of the same material & so
wasting the greater part of it.
I therefore claim as my invention:
1.) The new form of edgings made of a woven ribbon with taffeta weaving at
the sides and a tweeled middle part (Fig. 15.) for the circumference of the cord &
appearing like a twisted cord when fitted to a dress (Fig. 16.) The tweeled part
being made of the same quality of material as the sides or of any better material-
silk, wool, gold or silver-thread etc. of uniform or various colours.
2.) The folding & cutting machines Fig. 1-14 as shown, all substantially as set
forth.

page_text: I, WILHELM FEHNTER of Elberfeld in the province of Rhenish Prussia, German
Empire, merchant & manufacturer do hereby declare the nature of said invention for
IMPROVEMENTS IN EDGINGS AND THE APPARATUS FOR MAKING THE SAME and in
what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by the following statement:—
The object of the invention is to produce "edgings" for dresses, uniforms,
boots, etc in such a manner, that a cord is laid inside them by machinery and that
the folding edges are glued together and then cut crossways about 1/8 of an inch in
length so that they may be bent even in smallest circles without causing folds or
crumples and when finished the edging proper shall give the appearance of a twisted
cord.
In describing the edgings & the apparatus used in its manufacture reference is
made to the accompanying drawings in which :
Figs 1, 2 & 3 show respectively a vertical section, a front view & a plan of the
folding and glueing machine.
Figs. 4, 5 & 6 show a front view, side view & a plan of the cutting machine.
Fig. 7. is a partial vertical section of the same.
Figs. 8-11, 12-14 & 15-17 show details of the folding boxes and various
manners of adjusting the same in the machine.
Figs. 18-20 show the foreguide of the ribbon.
Figs. 21-23 show resp. the ribbon used for making the edgings and the edgings
themselves.
I use as raw material for my new edgings a woven ribbon which in the middle
part, for a breadth corresponding to the circumference of the folding cord, is
tweeled, whereas its sides right & left are made of plain or taffeta weaving, as
indicated by fig. 21.
This ribbon is prepared on one side with glue or a similar material which, when
getting hot softens & then glues, such as india-rubber-glue etc. It is then folded
round the cord, heated and pressed together and the free doubled part of it in
being passed through the cutting machine is cut transversely as shown by fig. 23.
The folding is done by the machine shown in figs 1, 2 & 3. This machine
consists of 2 standards A, A' which carry two hollow rolls B & C. One of theso
rolls is provided with a number of circular grooves & the other is quite smooth.
The rolls are made hollow that they can be heated by gas or by inserting red hot
iron bars, or by any other suitable manner. The lower roll is set in motion either
by hand or by preference by means of a pulley D driven from an overhead gear or
by a treadle. To the ends of the shafts of the rolls are keyed the spur wheels
D1, D2 by which the upper roll receives its rotary motion.
'
In front of the rolls, pretty close to them is fastened to the standards a bar G
which is provided with longitudinal holes at both ends running vertically so that
the bar can be set lower or higher as may be required.

page_text: The bar G is further provided lengthways with a slot H in which are set fast the
edging boxes I according to one or the other method described hereafter.
By means of screws F and handwheels E the upper roll can be pressed firmly
upon the lower one.
These "edging boxes" are made in the following manner: In a solid piece of
metal is cut a shaped hole X in such a manner that the shanks of the
are set wider appart at the entrance side-the side further off from the rolls-and
that they approach each other towards the other side but that the total length or
the circumference of the hole remains the same. In the boxes is also bored a round
hole Y which running in an oblique line, starting nearly from the middle of the
box at the open side runs nearly into the corner of the ☐ shaped hole at the
other side. In front of the box bar G and parallel to it is fastened to the machine
& bar K. This is cut out in the proper places similar to the ☐ shaped hole in
the edging boxes and it serves as a foreguide for the ribbon (Fig. 18-20).
The standards A are further provided with brackets L which serve to carry the
bobbins M M for the edging cords & ribbons.
The method of fastening and adjusting the boxes I in the bar G so that they
correspond exactly to the grooves in the roll C may be executed in the following
three manners.
1
a. as shown by figs. 8, 9 & 10. Each box projects at both sides from the bar G
and they are provided at the side opposite the rolls with an eye N & by this eye
they are stuck on the screwed bar O in front of G; by means of the nuts
counternuts P, P1 the boxes can be conveniently & exactly fixed to the desired
place.
The boxes project here also at both sides from
box at about double the distance of its width
are fastened to the bar G¹ the little angle irons or brackets Q, Q¹ and between
them and the set screws R, R¹ the boxes are held tight and are adjusted to their
proper places.
b. as shown by figs. 12, 13 & 14
the bar G and right & left to each
c. as shown by figs. 15, 16 & 17. Here the boxes are flush with the bar G¹¹ at
the side opposite the rolls & they are simply held and adjusted to their proper places
by little set screws S which are screwed in the bar G from the top.
The cutting machine is shown in figs 4, 5, 6 & 7. .It consists of a bracket T,
carrying the driving shaft U which on one side has keyed to it the driving pulley V
driven by any suitable gear, and on the other side the cutting disc W & the little
spur wheel X is keyed to the shaft U. The cutting disc W is made of steel and
consists of a number of sharp teeth or knives worked in its circumference as shown
by fig. 7. On the top of the cutting disc & set in motion by the spur wheel X¹
gearing into the wheel X rolls the pressing disc Y¹. This together with the spur
wheel X is carried in a little bracket Z which can be pressed downwards by the
set screw a.
The working of the machines described & the fabric turned out by them is as
follows:
The specially woven ribbon with the sides of taffeta weaving & the tweeled
middle part is glued on one side as mentioned above with any suitable glue that
gets soft when heated; when dry again it is passed through the foreguide bar and
through the boxes I where it is folded so that it is brought to the rolls quite
doubled up. At the same time the cord coming from the bobbins M³ is passed
through the boxes which bring it just to the folding edge of the ribbon in front
of the rolls so that in drawing both through the rolls the cord will be enclosed in
the ribbon lying quite at the folding edge. The cord wrapped in the ribbon will
pass the rolls just where the grooves are cut so that the other part can be pressed
and glued together by the pressure of the rolls. These being hot the glue will get
soft a little and the two doubled up edges will stick fast together and the edging
will come out of the machine in the form shown by fig 22.
In this form however the edgings are not yet fit for use in all cases. In order to
be able to be turned round small circles they must be cut transversely to prevent

page_text: their folding or doubling up. They are therefore passed through the cutting
machine in such a manner that the part with the cord in it passes the free space
between the knives & the little spur wheels, whereas the other part must pass
between the knife disc & the pressure disc and so it is cut as desired. After the
edgings have passed this machine they are fit for any use and they look as shown by
fig. 23.
Edgings made heretofore of a material (shirting) cut out from large pieces were
of uniform texture all through, they had not the nice appearance of a twisted cord
& could not be made of better material at the corner or of various colours in that
place exept by wasting the greater part of good material.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is
1.) The new form of edgings made of a woven ribbon with taffeta weaving at
the sides and a tweeled middle part for the circumference of the cord and appearing
like a twisted cord when fitted to a dress; the tweeled part being made of the same
quality of material as the sides or of any better material, (silk, gold or silver thread)
and of uniform or various colours.
2.) The folding machine with the adjustable edging boxes, the fore guide and
the bobbin carriers figs 1, 2, 3 and 8-20 as shown and all substantially as set
forth.
3.) The cutting machine, substantially as and for the purpose described and
illustrated by figs 4, 5, 6 & 7,