IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANU- FACTURE OF UMBRELLAS AND PARASOLS
Year: 1863

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to James Engleburtt Vanner, of Coleman Street, in
the City of London, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANU-
FACTURE OF UMBRELLAS AND PARASOLS."
Sealed the 18th September 18638, and dated the 21st July 1868.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said James Engleburtt Vanner
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on
the 21st July 1868.
I, JAMES ENGLEBURTT VANNER, of Coleman Street, in the City of London;
do hereby declare the nature of the Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE
MANUFACTURE OF UMBRELLAS AND PARASOLS," to be as follows:-
This Invention has for its object improvements in the manufacture of.
umbrellas and parasols. Heretofore in the manufacture of silks to be used
in the making of umbrellas and parasols it has for the most part been the
practice to produce near to, though at some distance from the edge of a fabric.
a tobine border or an invisible border, leaving between. the edge and such.
border a quantity of fabric called the "leisure," equal to that required to
form a hem, but in some cases the production of such tobine or. invisible
borders have been dispensed with..
Now according to my Invention the production of a "leisuro" for and
the making of a hem are dispensed with, and although. the production of
a tobine border or an invisible border may be dispensed with in carrying
out my Invention, it is preferred in all cases that one or other should be
produced near to the edge of a silk fabric to be used in the making or
covering of an umbrella, and at the edge where the "leisure" has been

page_text: heretofore produced additional warps are employed in order to obtain such
an additional strength to the edge as to admit of the dispensing with the
making of a bem when covering an umbrella with such a silk fabric, and
at the same time produce a finish at the edge, which will allow of the hem
being dispensed with without deteriorating the character of the article. And
in place of weaving the edge of an umbrella or parasol silk fabric, or that
part thereof where the bem usually comes of the same tie or pattern as the
body of the fabric, that portion or a part thereof is woven more or less of a
different tie or pattern, and is woven with harness leashes or cords capable of
more or less separate or independent action from that used for producing the
body of the fabric. It is preferred in all cases that the additional warp used
at the edge should be richer than the additional warp used in producing a
tobine border or an invisible border near the edge of the same fabric. The)
general body of the fabric may be of plain or tabby weaving, or of a twill or
ornamental weaving.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said James Engleburtt Vanner in the Great Seal Patent Office
on the 21st January 1864.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JAMES
ENGLEBURTT VANNER, of Ccleman Street, in the City of London, send
greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-first. day of July, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-three, in the twenty-seventh year of
Iler reign, did for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto
me, the said James Engleburtt Vanner, Her special licence that I, the said
James Engleburtt Vanner, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such
others as I, the said James Engleburtt Vanner, my executors, administrators,
and assigns; should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time
and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and
lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United King-
dom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man,
an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF UMBRELLAS AND
PARASOLS," upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said James
Engleburtt Vanner, my executors or administrators, by an instrument in
writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should par-

page_text: ticularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what
manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in
the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and imme-
diately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said James Engleburtt Vanner, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is
to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement thereof, that is to say:-
This Invention has for its object improvements in the manufacture of
umbrellas and parasols. Heretofore in the manufacture of silks to be used in
the making of umbrellas and parasols it has for the most part been the
practice to produce near to though at some distance from the edge of a fabric.
a tobine border or an invisible border, leaving between the edge and such
border a quantity of the fabric called the leisure, equal to that required to
form a hem, but in some cases the production of such tobine or invisible
borders has been dispensed with.
Now according to my Invention the production of a "leisure" for and
the making of a hem are dispensed with, and although the production of
a tobine border or an invisible border may be dispensed with in carrying
out my Invention, it is preferred in all cases that one or other should bo
produced near to the edge of a silk fabric to be used in the making
or covering of an umbrella, and at the edge where the "leisure" has been
heretofore produced additional warps are employed in order to obtain
such an additional strength to the edge as to admit of the dispensing with
the making of a hem when covering an umbrella with such a silk fabric,
and at the same time produce a finish at the edge, which will allow of the
bem being dispensed with without deteriorating the character of the article.
And in place of weaving the edge of an umbrella or parasol silk fabric, or
that part thereof where the hem usually comes of the same tie or pattern as
the body of the fabric, that portion or a part thereof is woven more or less
of a different tie or pattern, and is woven with harness leishes or cords
capable of more or less separate or independent action from that used for
producing the body of the fabric. It is preferred in all cases that the
additional warp used at the edge should be richer than the additional warp
used in producing a tobine border or an invisible border near the edge of the
same fabric. The general body of the fabric may be of plain or tabby weaving,
or of a twill.
Having thus stated the nature of my Invention, I will proceed more fully
to describe the manner of performing the same.

page_text: In weaving a silk fabric suitable for the manufacture of umbrellas or
parasols according to my Invention, and which in all cases is to be a single
width fabric, plain harness or leaves of heddles are used for producing the
body of the fabric, whilst independent harness leishes or cords are used for
working the warps for producing that edge of the fabric which comes to the
outer edge of the cover of an umbrella or parasol, where heretofore a leisure
suitable for being made into a hem has been woven, and in place of a leisure
being produced as heretofore when weaving an umbrella or a parasol fabric,
an edge of a richer and stronger character and finish is to be produced, and
of a different tie from that which constitutes the other or main body of the
woven fabric. This is accomplished by employing additional warps as com-
pared with the quantity of warps used in producing the main body of the
fabric, and such warps are to be worked by the independent or separate
harness leishes or cords to produce a different or more or less different tie to
that of the main body of the fabric. The tie of this part of the fabric may be
twill or satin, or an ottoman, or any tie which will produce a good finish or
character to this part of the fabric may be used; where the tie of itself is not
firm enough backing threads should be used, which may be separate or
worked out of the cane or chain. The quantity of additional warps at this
selvage of the fabric may be varied, depending on the quality of the body
fabric, but in all cases the additional quantity of warp is to be such as to give
the requisite strength and finish to the selvage, in order that having dispensed
with the production of an ordinary leisure, this edge of the fabric may be so
much stronger than the body of the fabric as not to require a hem at the
outer edge or circumference of the covering of an umbrella or a parasol. I
would state that I generally prefer to employ additional warp in the outer
edge of a silk fabric in the proportion of at least 3 to 1 of the main body. I
prefer also in the manufacture of umbrella fabrics to weave a tobine border
or an invisible border in addition to the stronger and richer edge or selvage
woven by the independent harness leishes or cords. The general body of the
fabric may be either twill or tabby.
In witness whereof, I, the said James Engleburt Vanner, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, this Twentieth day of January, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-four.
JAS. E. VANNER. (L.S.)