CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES FOR PERFORMING THE VARIOUS KINDS OF WORK NECESSARY IN STITCHING BUTTON AND EYELET HOLE WORKING, EMBROIDERING, AND SEWING GENERALLY."
Year: 1862

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to James Moore Clements, of Birmingham, in the
County of Warwick, Tailor and Draper, for the Invention of "CERTAIN
IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES FOR PERFORMING THE VARIOUS KINDS
OF WORK NECESSARY IN STITCHING BUTTON AND EYELET HOLE WORKING,
EMBROIDERING, AND SEWING GENERALLY."
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said James Moore Clements
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the
31st March 1862.
I, JAMES MOORE CLEMENTS, of Birmingham, in the County of Warwick,
Tailor and Draper, do hereby declare the nature of my said Invention for
"CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES FOR PERFORMING THE VARIOUS
KINDS OF WORK NECESSARY IN STITCHING BUTTON AND EYELET HOLE WORKING, EM-
BROIDERING, AND SEWING GENERALLY," to be as follows (that is to say):-
In giving effect to my Invention, I fix one or more axles, cranked or other-
wise, on a suitable bed, deriving their motions from a friction pulley or other
means at the back of the machine, and which may be worked with a treddle,
or otherwise, as required, the eccentric end of the crank or cranks operating
on and regulating the action of the shuttle and levers, elevating the shuttle

page_text: during the time of its passing through the loops, and bringing it back through
an irregular curve below for repeating its former motion; by this arrangement
the shuttle is removed while the levers are taking up the loops previous to the
shuttle again passing through them, the nose or sharp end of the shuttle will
be always kept in one direction by means of a slotted lever working vertically
or horizontally. The stitch may be regulated as hereafter described, as also
its size, and the advance motion of the work; and I will observe that in
using the general arrangements for working button holes by machines, I
introduce a series of self-acting levers, or other equivalent appliances that
hold the loops on both sides of the material during the time the shuttle passes
through them, but which, when done, and the silk drawn tight, a purl will be
formed on each side of the work, thus leaving no distinction between the
inside and outside of the button holes so made. In working button holes
where the purl is only required to be shown on one side, I use a double-
pointed needle, thereby avoiding the use of a shuttle, but the same may be
made to stitch or make a button hole identical in character with the hand-
made button hole, simply by using a needle with a fine crook near its end or
point similar to a crotchet crook. To move the work without puckering (so
objectionable when a single feed is used), I apply a double-feed motion, both
being operated on by one cam, and in some cases I hold and advance the
material to be sewn or operated on between a self-acting clip, the work being
held between its jaws or lips. I also purpose using a self-acting travelling
guide of the shape required for holding the cloth or material during the time
it is being worked. These arrangements enable me to carry the shuttle twice
through each loop, forming stitches independent of each other.
I purpose
placing a double cam or slide, or other equivalents on the crank shaft, which
operates the feed motion, and by means of small thumb pins or straps which
regulate the stitch the operator is enabled to repeat the work at the beginning
and ending without stopping the machine, which ensures the work being
thoroughly fastened.

page_text: WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Thirty-first day of March, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-two, in the twenty-fifth year of
Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto
me, the said James Moore Clements, Her special license that I, the said
James Moore Clements, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such
others as I, the said James Moore Clements, my executors, administrators,
and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to
time and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should
and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom
of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an
Invention for "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES FOR PERFORMING
THE VARIOUS KINDS OF WORK NECESSARY IN STITCHING BUTTON AND EYELET HOLE
WORKING, EMBROIDERING, AND SEWING GENERALLY," upon the condition (amongst
others) that I, the said James Moore Clements, by an instrument in writing
under my hand and seal, should particularly describe and ascertain the
nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be
performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office
within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said
Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said James Moore Clements, do hereby
declare the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same
is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement (that is to say) :-
In giving effect to my Invention, I fix one or more axles, cranked or
otherwise, or their equivalents, such as cams, on a suitable bed or cast frame,
deriving their motion from a friction pulley or other means at the back of the.
machine, and which may be worked with a treddle, or otherwise, as required,
the eccentric end of the crank or cranks operating on and regulating the
action of the shuttle and levers, elevating the shuttle during the time of its
passing through the loops, and bringing it back through an irregular curve
below for repeating its former motion; by this arrangement the shuttle is.
removed while the levers are forming and the hooks taking up the several
loops required previous to the shuttle again passing through them; the nose
or sharp end of the shuttle will be always kept in one direction by means of
a slotted lever working vertically or horizontally; or as a modification of this
arrangement, and to avoid the necessity of having the two loops round the
shuttle at one time, the shuttle may be made sharp pointed at each end, so
that in its traversing motion it shall pass through each loop individually, one

page_text: in its forward motion, and the other in its return motion, making the complete
stitch, thereby decreasing by one-half the slack silk or thread to be pulled
tight at the completion of each stitch; this arrangement enables me to form
each loop with but one hook instead of two, the using of only one hook
enabling the operator to work much smaller button or other holes than if two
were used. The stitch may be regulated as hereafter described, as also its
size, and the advance motion of the work; and I will observe that in using
the general arrangements for working button or other holes by machines, I
deem it an important feature of my improvements that button or other holes
should be worked with a continuous thread on each side the material, the one
thread supplied from a reel through the eye of a needle, and the other from a
shuttle; and in giving effect to this new element in sewing machines, I
introduce a series of self-acting slotted levers, or other equivalent appliances
that hold the loops on both sides of the material during the time the shuttle
passes through them, but which, when done, and the silk or thread drawn
tight, a purl will be formed on each side of the work, thus leaving but a slight
distinction between the inside and outside of the button or other hole so
worked. In working button or other holes where the purl is only to be
formed on one side, I use a double-pointed needle, thereby avoiding the use
of a shuttle, but the same may be made to stitch or make a button or other
hole identical in character with the hand-made button or other hole, by
using a needle with a fine hook near its end similar to a crochet hook. To
move the work without puckering (a common and universal defect with all
sewing machines hitherto produced) during the process of sewing, I apply a
double-feed motion, both being operated on by the one cam, by which the
stitch is regulated, and in some cases I hold and advance the material to be sewn
or operated upon between a self-acting clam, the work being held between its
jaws or lips, and regulated according to the stitch required. I also purpose
using a self-acting travelling and revolving guide of the shape required for
holding the cloth or material during the time of its being worked, these latter
improvements being applicable to sewing machines generally, and the feed
motions are applicable to and would form important improvements in sewing
machines of ordinary construction.
But in order to be well and practically understood as to the nature, extent,
and object of my improvements in sewing machines, I will proceed to describe
the Drawings hereunto attached, commencing the description in each Sheet
with the letter A, and marking the same parts as they occur or appear in the
various views with the same letters of reference.

page_text: Fig. 1, Sheet 1, is a front view or elevation of a sewing machine constructed
for working button or other holes, and arranged in its general details according
to the description first given in my Provisional Specification. A is the bed or
frame, cast or otherwise formed of sufficient strength to carry and support the
various top and bottom motions; the prime mover or axis of the machine is
represented by a dotted circle, marked B, drawn here for the purpose of
defining its true position. Fig. 2 is a top view of Figure 1 with the parts to
the left of the dotted line, a, a, Figure 1, represented broken off in order to
better exhibit the lower details. Fig. 3 is also a part top view or plan of the
base of the machine with the cam C, double crank D, needle lever E, shuttle
mover F, shuttle guide G, G, and shuttle H, removed, and the axis on which the
pulley I is placed is also broken for convenience of space; the loop-hook lever,
shown entire in this view, marked J, is represented broken off in Figure 2;
this lever works on a fulcrum a' at the top through the plate Q, and at the
bottom in a hole formed in the casting, shown in dotted lines at Fig. 4,
marked b'; the top arm of the lever is also shewn in this view, marked J
and the bottom which is partly shown in dotted lines is marked J'; this
end of the lever works in an irregular groove, the sides of which form a
surface cam, marked c', c', formed on an enlarged part of the main shaft or
applied to it, as preferred; this grooved cam is clearly shown in Figures 2
and 3, and produces, as the main axis revolves, a lateral horizontal motion to
the lever J, causing its extreme point to take up and carry with it the loop
formed by the partial return of the needle; the rocking levers K, K, and L, L,
are in this view wholly shown, but partially obscured in the last Figure; they
derive their motion from the cam R, shewn separate at Fig. 7; the front and
back fulcrums or centres on which these levers work (b, b, and c, c,) are shown
in the front view, Figure 1, marked with the same letters; but the active
parts of the levers, also marked K and L, are broken off to prevent confusion,
but which parts are exhibited in Fig. 4, which simply relates to the motions
and parts for elevating the barbed hooks, marked f and 9, which hooks are
secured by set screws at the top of the slides or hook carriers d, d, and e, e, the
top ends of which are shown marked with the same letters in Figures 2 and 3;
the hook carriers are secured (by the clips N and N¹) to the front or outer
plate, marked M, M, and M, M, here shown broken away for the purpose of
exhibiting the parts within; and in this view it will be seen that the levers
K and L are connected with joints, here shown in dotted lines, uniting the
ends of the levers K and L with the lower ends of the hook carriers d and e;

page_text: these connecting joints are shown at h and i, Figure 3, and at h, Figure 2,
while i is partly obscured by the sharp end of the shuttle; in Figure 2, j, j,
and k, k, are brackets for supporting the axes of the rock levers K and L,
and which brackets are secured to the main casting of the machine, (which
part, for definement generally, is marked A.) The needle is operated on also
by the curved forked lever E working on the fulcrum P, which is connected
at its extreme top end to the joint l, which is secured to the needle carrier o, o,
working vertically between the slides m, m, and n, n, which are secured to the
casting A. The portion of the casting A represented broken off at A¹, A¹, is
simply for carrying the reel or spool containing the sewing material that is to
be used with the needle, the thread or silk being drawn off in the direction of
the red dotted line and passes through a smooth hole drilled through the
projecting pin p, and up and through the projecting pin q, secured to the
lever r, from whence the silk or thread descends and passes down the centre
of the needle plates and in front of the needle t and through its eye to the
work, the free end being held in the ordinary way for commencing the work.
The needle t is represented depressed, but at a suitable period of its motion
the projecting pin u that attaches the joint 7 to the needle slide will be brought
in contact with the lever v which works on the fulcrum w, but having a pro-
jecting pin at its reverse end elevates the lever r and thereby draws the thread
tight at the completion of the stitch, at which period the thread lever a will
be brought into operation for laying or guiding the silk or thread in its proper
position for forming the next stitch, that when the barbed hook frises the silk
or thread shall be caught by the barb and carried down in its return motion
for the purpose of forming the first loop; *and this thread lever a is brought
into action by the lever shown broken off at O in Figure 2, which works on
the fulcrum y, and continues back so as to derive its motion from the cam z,
which is shown detached at Fig. 5, by the form of which it will be seen that
the lever is called into action twice in each revolution. The part marked M,
partly shown in Figure 4, is entirely removed from Figure 1, but shown in an
edge view at Figures 2 and 3, as also at Fig. 6, which is an end view of
Figure 1 taken from the left-hand end, and complete in all the parts here-
tofore referred to. It is also important for me to direct attention to the
relative radial position with the main axis of the machine of the double crank,
the centres of the pins of each radiate from the centre of the main axis in the
direction of the radial dotted lines d¹ and e¹; the pin D¹ in the line of radiation
marked e¹ is secured to the cam C, leaving sufficient room between the side
of the cam and the inside of the crank D for the extreme eccentric forked end
of the lever E to work freely on the crank pin D', while the pin D in the

page_text: radial line d¹ works in a slot formed in the part F, shown detached at Fig. 8,
which part has two prejecting pins, shown in dotted lines in this Figure, which
work in horizontal slots formed in the inside of the shuttle guide G, and as a
consequence, the main axis being turned in the direction of the arrow, marked
near the pulley in Figures 2, 3, 4, and 5, the process of working will
commence.
Having now given a general description of the machine and its various
parts, I will describe its continuous action in the process of sewing, it being
understood that the ordinary feed motion and cloth presser are omitted, and
we will suppose the silk or thread to have been placed in the course indicated
by the dotted red line in Figure 1, and has been taken down by the needle,
(which is now at its lowest position) through the work; the needle at its partial
return forms the silk or thread into a loop, which is taken up by the point of
the lever J and carried slightly to the right hand, the form of the lever
causing the loop to be sufficiently open for the barbed or spring hooks f and g
to pass through; the hook f being now elevated by the cam R and lever K,
passes through the loop held open by the lever J and through the divided cloth
of the button or other hole, sufficiently high to take hold of the silk or thread
held by the thread lever x upon its return through, carrying with it the silk or
thread; the lever x is now released by the cam 2, actuating the lever O, the
needle at this point being out of the cloth and stationary at a certain elevation.
The lever x is immediately brought to its former position (by the second action
of the cam z and lever O), carrying with it the silk or thread; the second
hook g being now elevated (by the cam R actuating the lever L), takes up the
loop held by the lever a, as previously described, carrying it down untill it is
parallel with the loop formed by the hook f, the lever x releasing the silk or
thread at the moment it is taken hold of by the hook, a slight upward movement
being at this moment given to the hooks ƒ and g (by the cam R, Figure 7,).
throws the loops open in a condition for the shuttle to pass through, which is
now effected by the crank pin D", being elevated to the top of the slot in the
shuttle carrier F, and in its onward course carries the shuttle through the
loops, a small hook working in a parallel guide and actuated from the slide d
now passes over the tops of the hooks in succession, for the purpose of
throwing off the silk or thread, the looping lever J being brought back to its
former position by the cam C¹, releases the silk or thread it held, a sudden
upward movement of the needle slide o takes place by the peculiar form of
the slotted lever E, by which the pin u elevates the lever v, and by means of
the pin v', the lever r, thereby tightening up the loops formed by the different
hooks, at the same time drawing from the reel or spool as much silk or thread

page_text: as will be required for making the next stitch. It will be seen that at this
point of the revolution the crank pin D" will have come to the bottom of the
slot in the shuttle carrier F; at this point the thread lever again passes under
the point of the needle previous to its descent, carrying with it the silk or
thread, and holding it while the needle takes its downward course, and untill
such time as the hook f takes it down, as before described, the onward course
of the pin D bringing down the shuttle guide G on the guide pins G¹ and G".
At this point the onward movement of the material takes place previous to the
point of the needle entering the cloth, which it now does, to again repeat the
former operations, one revolution making a stitch.
Fig. 1, Sheet 2, is a modification of the machine exhibited in Sheet 1, and
also specially designed for working button or other holes, the principal distinc-
tion being confined to the action of the shuttle, and the various actions and
motions are produced from grooved cams formed on the inner surfaces of two
discs fastened or keyed on the main axis. I use the term "main," because on
the same axis is also fixed the pulley, by which the machine is intended to be
worked from a gut working over a driving wheel, put in motion by a treddle
or otherwise, as convenient; the grooved cams produce the same actions and
perform the same functions as the cams exhibited and explained in the former
sheet; but I prefer the cams here shown, because they enable me to dispense
with springs and enlarge their range of action, so as to render the general
working of the machine more pleasant. A, A, is the frame or main casting,
partly obscured by the dises secured to the axis B; the shape of the frame is
indicated by dotted lines. C, C, is the needle lever working on the fulcrum a,
and deriving its motion from the cam groove No. 1, on the inside of the front
dise; this lever elevates and depresses the needle by means of the slide D,
represented at its lowest position. The direct action of the slide and the circular
action of the lever being compensated for by a small bit of metal working on
a pin fastened in the slide, and the metal having a sliding action in the slot
formed in the end of the lever. E, E, partly obscured by the disc, is the shuttle
driver, which derives it motion from a pin secured at right angles at its end in
the grooved cam No. 2. F, F, is an arm attached to the shuttle driver, and
works along against the face of the casting A, having a projecting pin b for
placing in the position shown the bell-crank lever marked G, G, in the top of
which a slot is formed for receiving a projecting pin or screw for actu-
ating the part d, d, at the right hand of which a small spring is fastened
by means of the projecting pin last described, while to its free end a pin is
secured pointing inward, forming a curved pin for throwing the loop off the
barbed hook, hereafter to be referred to; this slide d and spring d', curved

page_text: pin e, and projecting pin f, are exhibited double the size in a flat and edge
view at Fig. 4. H, H, is a lever working on the fulcrum g, and extended
back as exhibited in dotted lines (Figure 2) through an aperture in the casting
to the dotted circle marked No. 3, which works in the groove defined by the
same number formed in the back disc; the function of this lever is for elevating
the slide h, to which is secured a barbed or spring hook, omitted in this view
but exhibited full size detached at Fig. 5; and although I have described and
exhibited in my former Drawing two barbed hooks, in this case I purpose
using but one, notwithstanding two may be used if preferred; on the front of
the slide h a projecting pin h' is secured, that when the slide rises to a certain
distance the bell-crank lever G is thereby elevated for the object and purpose
hereafter to be referred to. I, I, is a slide almost obscured, and works
parallel with the slide E, by means of its end working into the cam groove
No. 4, formed on the face of the back disc; the object of this slide is for
actuating the part marked n, n, which actuates two hooked parts (equivalent
to the part marked J, Figures 3 and 4, Sheet 1), shown detached at Fig. 6,
marked i and j, for holding the loop open during the passage of the barbed
hook. Notwithstanding this arrangement is capable of great diversification
for effecting the same object, one of which I have exhibited at Fig. 7, marked
with the same letters, and in every case the detached views are drawn to a
scale twice the size that the machines are drawn at, with the exception of
Figs. 9 and 10, which are drawn, as the machines, half size. J, J, is a lever,
principally exhibited in dotted lines, working on a fulcrum k, placed at the
back of the machine; the back end of this lever works in a grooved cam
formed on the back disc here shown as the others, in dotted lines, marked 5;
the object of this lever is to actuate a slide shown in Figure 3, marked l, to
which is attached a bent serpentine wire, shown here and in Figure 1, marked
m, having at its extreme end a small notch or groove for receiving the silk or
thread; this part performs the same functions as the thread lever x, shown in
Figures 1 and 6 in Sheet 1. K is a rock lever working between centres,
shown in dotted lines at the back of the part of the casting that carries the
needle slide, and at the other end of the casting at A', where it is set up by a
set screw marked o; this rock lever derives its motion from a face cam secured
to the main axis, and exhibited at L, Fig. 3, which is an end view of Figure 1,
showing an edge view of the discs Q and R, in which the grooved cams are
cut, the lever K being fitted with a lock nut and set screw marked p; this
lever gives motion to the clawed feeder q by means of two inclines, by which a
motion at right angles is produced. The lever M, M, is also principally
obscured; this lever works on a fulcrum at r, and derives its motion from its

page_text: lower working against a surface cam fixed upon the main axis and shown at N
Figure 3, the form of which is shown in dotted lines also marked N, ir
Figure 1; the object of this lever is to press on and release the feeder 9, the
pressure being obtained by an india-rubber ring passing over the hook s and
pin t, it being omitted here to avoid confusion.
And having now described the principal movers and their functions, I will
imagine that the silk or thread is taken off the spool P in the direction of the
dotted red line passing through apertures equivalently placed as described in
the former Sheet, and from there to the needle, which, as before stated, is
omitted in this Drawing, and the loose or free end of the silk or thread shown,
and also that the shuttle is supplied with silk or thread, and the material to
be sewn placed under the presser, and the needle if applied would be at its
lowest point in order to harmonise with the position of the parts, as here
shown, which in the process of sewing go through all the movements in rotation,
as described in Figure 1 in the former Sheet, with the exception that the
movement required in that case to operate on the second barbed hook is not
required in this case, as the one employed in this machine performs the double
functions obtained by the use of two in the former machine; but in order that
the various motions derived from the cams may be understood, I will, for
explicitness, describe this machine as at work, starting from the position of
the parts, as here shown. The cams are made to revolve in the direction of
the arrows, when the lever C will immediate be brought into action, the
periods of its elevation and depression during the whole revolution of the cams
being defined by an imaginary radial line from the dotted circle 1 to the
degrees encircling the cams, and by reference to this the periods of the motions
derived from all the cams may be readily ascertained. The needle now being
slightly elevated, becomes stationary, while the hooks n, n, shown detached,
and described at Figures 6, are performing their functions by the slide I
working from cam 4, which is to form and hold open the loop, as before
described, for the upward passage of the barbed hook attached to the slide h,
in which is placed the projecting pin h¹, shown in contact with the bell-crank
lever G, the slide h being brought into action by the lever H, which in its
upward motion withdraws the detaching hook e from over the barbed or spring
hook by means of the bell-crank lever G, where it remains stationary; the
cam 3 and lever H has now elevated the barbed or spring hook through the
material, and by the eccentric form of this cam at the part defined by a radial
line to degree 124, is made to descend, carrying with it by means of its spring
hook the silk or thread held in position by the serpentine pin marked m, and
as the barbed or spring hook is descending the serpentine pin m is withdrawn

page_text: by means of the slide l, actuated by the lever J from the form of the cam 5,
which having gone through from 10 to 12 degrees in its revolution, simul-
taneously liberates the silk during the time the book is descending by tracing
the form of cam 3 by a radial line to degree 96, the hook will then be taken
down to its lowest point; it has now a slight upward movement, as will be
seen by that part of the cam radiating to degree 86; at this moment the
shuttle slide E is brought into action by the cam No. 2 at the part radiating to
193 degrees, and during the time the cam is passing through about 73 degrees
of its revolution, the shuttle is drawn through the loop formed by the spring
hook, as before described; the slide E has attached to it the arm F, carrying
the projecting pin b, which in its passage over the point G¹ carries the curved
pin e shown at Figure 4 over the top of the barbed hook, at the same time the
shuttle is passing through the loop; at this point a slight upward movement
is again given by that part of the cam 3 radiating to degree 25, which elevates
the lower point of the barbed hook upon a level with the detaching pin e,
which withdraws the silk or thread from it. A slight backward motion is now
given to the shuttle (by that portion of the cam radiating to degree 100) for
the purpose of releasing the silk or thread; the shuttle now becomes stationary
during the time the cam revolves about 70 degrees, at the moment the shuttle
has its slight backward motion, the cam No. 1 at the point radiating to
degree 190 comes to its point of action, a quick upward motion is thereby
given to the lever C elevating the slide D, and by means of the projecting pin u
the lever vis elevated, which thereby elevates the lever w to a considerable
height, causing it first to take up the slack silk or thread formed by the
passage of the shuttle, thereby completing the first interlacing of the threads,
as also to draw off a fresh supply from the reel or spool for the progress of the
work. At this position of the work (which is about one-half of the revolution
of the cams) the parts actuated by cam 3 are again restored to the same
position as indicated in the Drawing, namely, the position at starting cam 5,
at the point radiating to about degree 185, now actuates the lever J, causing
the serpentine pin m to lay in position the needle silk or thread for being
taken hold of by the spring hook identically, as before described. A line
radiating from cam 3 to degree 315 indicates the greatest elevation of the hook;
this radial point corresponding with the opposite extreme, throw of the same
cam, for this cam and cam 5 repeat themselves in each revolution with all the
parts, deriving their motion from them, and as a consequence a second loop is
formed, through which the shuttle passes in its return motion exactly as it
passed through in its forward motion, the projecting pin 6 in the slide F again
repeating the operation of drawing the detaching hook over the top of the

page_text: spring hook, as before mentioned; at this point the slide I is actuated by
cam 4 at a point radiating to 345 degrees, thereby withdrawing the hooks
and j, Figure 6, and releasing the loop held open by them for the passage of
the spring hook; these hooks i and jare held stationary during that portion
of the revolution between 345 degrees and 225 which permits the spring
hook to be elevated twice during the time i and jare in their stationary
position, and it will be thus seen from this description that it is indispensable
that the shuttle should terminate in a blunt point at each end, a quality not
required in the machine described and exhibited in Sheet 1 ; but, nevertheless,
the motions may be so timed that the shuttle may be returned before the
second loop is made, and in that case a shuttle, the same as exhibited in
Sheet 1, may be used, and it will be observed that the shuttle carrier in this
instance is a fixture, thereby dispensing with much complication exhibited in
the former machine, where the shuttle carrier is elevated and depressed to
obtain the necessary continuous action and withdrawal of the shuttle. In
proceeding with the work cam 1 at a point radiating to about 65 degrees will
repeat the quick upward motion of the needle slide and needle described as
having taken place at a point of the same cam, radiating to 190 degrees, and
thereby taking up the slack silk or thread and repeating its former operations.
Pursuing the cam 1 to a point radiating to 55 degrees, the needle will
commence its downward course until the cam 1 arrives at its starting point,
as here exhibited, cam 5 at the same time having operated on the serpentine
pin m, places the silk or thread in position for the elevation of the spring
hook, as before described, but during the partial descent of the needle a part
is brought into operation not hitherto referred to, but exhibited at Figure 3,
marked a, its object being to draw forward through the eye of the needle
(which is not shown in this view as at Figure 1, to avoid confusion) and
hold the quantity of silk or thread necessary for affording the free passage
of the shuttle. This part is actuated by a wedge or incline marked y, placed
on the needle slide D, that holds it in the position here shown, but at the
return stroke of the needle y is so far elevated as to permit the. arm x
to be thrown down and carried back in about a corresponding angle to the
left, as here shown to the right, it being held in this position by a delicate
spring marked z pressing on the part a', attached to the arm x.
And at this part of my description I will observe that Fig. 9 represents a
modification of the part last described, the part a being operated on or brought
into action by being centred on the rocking arm b', and put in motion by its
connection with the slide 1, which slide is attached by the connecting piece c'
to the lever J. The advantage of obtaining the motion of a from this part in

page_text: preference to that described and exhibited at Figures 1 and 3 is, that the
slide and serpentine hook m is actuated twice to the one descent of the
needle.
Fig. 2 is a top view of Figure 1, and drawn for the purpose of more
explicitly exhibiting the parts, which are marked with the same letters as at
Figure 1. The circular holes S and T are intended for receiving screws for
screwing the machine to its table or stand, which, as stated in describing
Sheet 1, should be fitted with a driving wheel and treddle for giving motion to
the machine by a gut passing over the pulley U.
In the general description before given I have referred to a barbed or spring
hook, and as the same is an important improvement in sewing machines for
working button or other holes, and applicable to other machines, I think it neces-
sary to more fully describe the same, and for that purpose will refer to Fig. 5.
e and f represent a side and front view of the same hook drawn full size,
which possesses not only the quality of grasping and pulling down the silk or
thread through the work, but the indentation in the spring when the hook is
elevated prevents the silk or thread from voluntarily leaving the top or eye of
the hook, and, as a consequence of the hook ascending, a loop is formed for
the shuttle to pass through as before described. 9' is a modification of this
hook formed in connection with a sharp point, which will be found advan-
tageous and essential when working button or other holes by machine, the
stitch of which is intended to assimilate to the character of work produced
when working button or other holes by hand. Fig. 8 simply represents a
side, front, and end view of the double-pointed shuttle as used and described
in the machine exhibited in this Sheet.
In working button-holes it is necessary to vary the width of the work,
namely, the quantity more or less of the cloth covered on each side in working
the button-hole, and this I effect by having different needle plates, providing
each machine with a series of them for that purpose, and one of which I have
exhibited at Fig. 10, D being the needle slide, and the plate that holds the
needle, marked m¹, is intended to be varied in thickness, so that the needle
secured in it may stand out farther from or nearer to the plane of the slide.
Fig. 11 represents a top, edge, and end view of a spring clam for holding
the material during the time the button-hole or other kind of work is being
sewed. This clam is not shown attached to the machine to avoid confusion,
but it may be put in the position of the cloth feeder q, and by the elastic force
of the steel of which it is composed it will expand during the return of the
feeder for the purpose of again closing to advance the cloth or material to be
sewn, the part hand k¹ being roughened in their meeting surfaces for the

page_text: better holding the material during the time of its being advanced; and this
principle of a double-feed motion is applicable for every description of sewing
machine now in use, and would be used to great advantage, as it entirely
prevents puckering, but as this clam feed contracts the space for holding the
work, I purpose in some instances obtaining the same result from a sliding
motion worked by a cam for actuating the same.
Fig. 12 represents as much of my universal work holder and travelling
guide as is necessary for illustrating my Invention, which is to provide means
for holding irregular-shaped articles, such as buckles and other articles
(required to be covered which I purpose sewing around with a button-hole
stitch) up to the action of the needle; this I effect in the following way:
The drawing being made to a small scale for convenience of space, and the
centre rock arm is represented broken through for the same purpose. The
parts and are feet secured to the floor by suitable screws supporting
the rocker m¹ and m¹, to which is attached the vertical broken rock arm n'
and n³, which carries the frame p¹, p', which encompasses the shuttle box, and
permits a free forward, backward, and lateral action, the shuttle box being
entirely disconnecte: from it, but introduced to show their relative positions.
The part r,, is a templet of the exact shape of the article intended to be
sewn, such as an oval, elliptic, circular, or D-formed buckle, and the article
intended to be covered being laid upon its counterpart, and held down by a
spring (not shown in this view). During the time the work is proceeding an
elastic band should be secured at or near the part marked t¹, and to a pin
placed, say, at A¹, Fig. 1, the effect of this will be that the work will be fed
around and held close to the operation of the needle, quite regardless of its
irregular form.
Having now described my improvements, and exhibited the same in a way
that will be well understood by able machinists acquainted with the manu-
facture of sewing machines, I wish it understood, by these my in part recited
Letters Patent, that I do not purpose limiting myself to the exact details
herein exhibited, provided the spirit or essential qualities of my improvements
are preserved for producing the form of stitch requisite for imparting to the
work the character herein-before described, namely, that of working a button
or other hole so as to form a lock-stitch purl on one or both sides of the
material, that is working, by the mechanical appliances or their equivalents
herein described, a button or other hole that shall resemble in the character
of the work a band-made button or other hole, a purl being formed around
the button or other hole, either on one or both sides of the material with the
exception, when worked on both sides, that the stitches are alternately formed

page_text: first on the front, then on the back, and then on the front again, the hole,
when finished, having all the appearance of a well-worked hand-made hole,
and may or may not have a "bar" (a term well understood by tailors) laid
around the edges, if desired; and my improvements as exhibited in Sheets 1
and 2, and the peculiar qualities of the work thus produced, I claim as new
and of my Invention.
Secondly, I claim the use of a spring book, described and exhibited at
Figure 5, as being entirely new in connection with sewing machines.
Thirdly, I claim the double-feed motion or action described and exhibited
at Figure 11, without regard to any particular description of sewing machine
to which the same may be applied.
And, lastly, I claim the use of the universal work holder and travelling
guide described and exhibited at Figure 12.
In witness whereof, I, the said James Moore Clements, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, this Twenty-sixth day of September; in the
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-two.
JAMES MOORE CLEMENTS. (L.S.)
Witness,
WILLIAM LOACH,
Clerk to James S. Cockings,
Patent Agent,
Birmingham.