Improvements in and connected with Patterns for Garments.
Year: 1895

page_text: PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in and connected with Patterns for Garments.
ROBERT GREENHALGH Warehouseman 26 Nicoll Road Willesden London N.W.
County of Middlesex do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as
follows:-
The object of this invention is, that the various sections of women's, & men's
underclothing, linings, & interlinings, made from cotton, linen, or other material,
may be readily cut by any inexperienced person, direct from the piece, or web,
in one of various sizes, & designs, the same being shewn on the fabric, in full sizes
of each section, in correct proportion to size of garment desired.
In consequence of the difficulties in making well fitting garments, by people
without knowledge of cutting, they are bought ready made, but a considerable
section of the public use as a pattern an old garment which is very uncertain,
leading to misfit, probably from no fault of the person making it bat, perhaps for
one reason amongst others, the garment had been washed many times & thus
become thoroughly shrunk & misshaped, whereas the fabric from which the new
article is being cut may have been only partially shrunk or even, which is most
probable as the inventor can testify, not shrunk at all.
Others use paper patterns, but the cost of these is more than the total value of
the materials required to make a new garment, besides requiring considerable
intelligence to understand, leading to great waste of material.
Figure 1 shews a chemise which will be printed with a mixture of any common
pigment & liquid gum which will wash out easily.
The design shews a 36 inch calico is used, all the parts being drawn to scale,
which may not be strictly accurate but yet are substantially correct.

page_text: The front or chest shews 5 designs
Curved high chest as marked
High square
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V shape
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Low square
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The letters marked on design are not intended solely for this specification but
form part of the invention & will be printed on the fabric for the purpose of
facilitating sewing the parts together.
After cutting the garments it is folded on the lines R.Q, so that the bottom
hangs with the letters A A A B BB outside, these points indicate the top of the
gores,& the body of the garment must be carefully fixed before.sewing. exactly at
the points indicated by the corresponding letters, the garment thus fixed is ready
for sewing.
This principle as set forth I.apply to all articles of underclothing.
By this invention girls & even young children may be unerringly taught cutting
their minds thus becoming familiarised & widened at an early age with the various
peculiar forms of sections which with the experience of joining, & sewing together
prepares them for the higher branches of dressmaking.
Women without any previous knowledge of cutting may by this method readily
cut, sew, & complete a garment without hesitation or waste of time or material.
Dated this 26th day of December 1895.
I ROBERT GREENIALGH of 26 Nicoll Road; Willesden, London, in the County
of Middlesex, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner
the same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained.in and
by the following statement and accompanying drawings:-
1-
My said invention refers chiefly to the manufacture of underclothing, linings, and
the like and consists mainly in printing several distinctive sizes of garment
patterns upon one piece of textile fabric, so that when the piece is bought the
purchaser may cut the garment to any desired size within the range of sizes
printed on the cloth.
.
For example suppose that the garment were made up of ten parts, the patterns
of these ten parts would be printed directly upon the cloth from which the
garment is to be made up. I would print the pattern in two three, four or more
sizes, the line circumscribing each size being distinguished from the other size
lines, either by being of a different colour or of a different appearance or
description or identified by different letters or figures. Each distinctive size line
in a pattern is to be found with the same distinguishing peculiarity in all of the
other patterns or sections when necessary, so that when the size has been
determined, all of the patterns on the piece are cut out to that specific and
distinctive size line, so that no mistake can possibly be made. Distinctive designs
as well as distinctive sizes may also be printed on the cloth so that in cutting the
patterns the design may be varied as well as the size.
The nature of the piece upon which the patterns are printed depends upon the
description of garment to be made. Thus the piece might be of cotton or linen, or
print or flannel, or silk.

page_text: My invention will be more easily understood by a reference to the annexed two
sheets of illustrative drawings.
As aforesaid, the different size-lines or indications are distinguished by certain
peculiarities which enable each line to be readily distinguished from its
neighbour.
For example, suppose I were to mark each pattern in four distinctive sizes,
I would use four distinctive size lines. For instance, as shown in Fig. 1, the
continuous line a night represent the largest size; the interrupted line 6 might
represent the next size; the dotted line c the next size; and the dot-and-dash
line d the smallest size. Applying this to a simple parallelogramic figure or
pattern, as in Fig. 2, the parallelogram would then be marked in four sizes, a, b, c
and d, each size having its own distinctive. boundary line, as clearly, shown
in Fig. 2. Going a step further and to illustrate the practical application of my
invention, Fig. 3 represents a piece of cloth, which by way of example, I have
shown printed with the requisite differentially sized pieces or patterns which
compose a boy's or a man's day shirt. The different pieces are named on the
drawing, and this may also be done on the printed cloth piece to assist the
inexperienced or unskilled person. In the fig. the full line a represents
the largest size in each pattern or section. The, interrupted line 6 represents the
next smaller size. The dotted line, c, a still smaller size. The dot-and-dash line d,
the smallest size.
On the piece of cloth these lines might be printed in different colours or be
identified by different letters or figures or be printed in any convenient manner
which will differentiate one size or design from another. For instance in cutting
out the patterns to the line d all that is necessary is to note that each pattern or
design must be cut out, to the same character of line as d and so with any one of
the four size lines, according to the size of garment desired. When cut out, all
that remains is to sew the garment together.
The differentially distinctive patterns and designs-being-printed upon the cloth
itself, any girl or inexperienced person may readily and accurately cut-a-garment
to any size or design shown. The printing or transferring of the patterns upon the
piece goods may be done in any ordinary calico printing machine or in any
modified form of the same or by any other suitable means or apparatus.
The said lines and indications are printed in a medium which will easily
wash out.
The pattern and design lines in accordance with my invention may be shown
upon paper or might also be transferred to or printed upon the cloth from paper
upon which the pattern lines have been previously printed.
This however is only a modified method of printing or transferring and does not
affect the spirit of my invention.
Although I have illustrated the cutting out of a boy's or man's shirt as a fair
example of the utility of my invention it must nevertheless be understood that the
patterns of any under-garment, lining or the like may be printed and cut in a
similar manner.
For example in Fig. 4 Sheet 2 I have indicated the differentially sized pattern
of a lady's chemise printed upon the piece of cloth according to my invention.
In this example I have indicated four sizes, marked out by the four distinctive
lines a, b, c and d as in the former instance. In cutting the neck of the chemise,
provision is of course made for the usual gathering and pleating.
It will also be seen from Fig. 4 that provision may be made for varying the
design of the chest portion.
For example the pattern may either be cut to the high neck design as in Fig. 5,
or to the square cut design as in Fig. 6 or to the V pattern as in Fig. 7.
It must however be understood that these two examples of garments have been
selected merely for the sake of illustration. It is impossible to indicate all of the
uses and every garment in the production of which my invention might be
employed.

page_text: It is not a necessary part of my invention that all of the differentially sized
patterns composing a garment should be printed upon one piece of cloth.
The said differentially sized patterns might be printed or produced upon
separate pieces of cloth as in a man's shirt with linen front cuffs &c.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
-claim is.
1. Printing or producing patterns and designs of underclothing and linings upon
the materials of which the garments or sections of same are to be made, the said
patterns and designs being printed or produced in more than one size or design,
the different size lines, or indications being preferably made distinguishable from
the other size lines by means of different colours or peculiarities of formation or by
distinguishing signs or markings, for the purposes and substantially as hereinbefore
-described.
2. Printing or producing all of the patterns composing a garment or lining of
the indicated nature upon one piece of the cloth or material from which the
garment is to be made, the said patterns being printed or produced in more than
-one size or design, the different size lines or indications being preferably
distinguishable from the other size lines by means of different colours or
peculiarities of formation or by distinguishing letters, signs or the like, for the
purposes and substantially as described.
נ.י.מ
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