Improvements in Overseaming Machines.
Year: 1894

page_text: Date of Application, 17th Oct., 1894
Complete Specification Left, 17th July, 1895-Accepted, 14th Sept., 1895
Improvements in Overseaming Machines.
We,
EMILE CORNELY, and ROBERT CORNELY, both of 87 Faubourg St. Denis,
Paris, France, Manufacturers of Sewing Machines, do hereby declare the nature
of this invention to be as follows:-
The object of the present invention is the construction of a machine for producing
an edging or overseaming stitch with universal feed. The seam is produced by
means of a helicoidal shaped looper needle to which an oscillating motion is
imparted combined with an up and downward motion and which in this operation
traverses the cloth, winds its thread around the needle above the cloth then
descends and winds its thread around the needle below the cloth and thus produces
overseaming stitches which are secured to the cloth by means of the seam which is
produced by a needle hook or by a threaded needle.
On the accompanying drawings, the arrangement for the production of the seam
by means of the helicoidal looper needle in combination with a needle hook out of
a single thread, is shewn on Figures 1 to 5 which represent on an enlarged scale
the organs which produce the stitch; these organs are composed of a crochet
hook B and of a cork-screw shaped helicoidal looper needle C which in their
motions traverse the holes 1 and 2 of the needle plate A. The looper needle C is
fixed in shaft D and is provided with an eye 3 through which passes the thread
which comes from the bobbin through the hollow shaft D. An oscillating motion
is imparted to the looper needle C on its axle and at the same time an up and down
motion is communicated to it.
In Figure 1 the looper needle C whilst turning has accomplished its upward
motion, has gone through the cloth and has presented its loop 4 to the needle
hook B which then penetrates into this loop. In Figure 2 both needles descend,
hook B maintains the loop 4 which is deposited upon the cloth as shewn in Figure 6
which represents a plan of the seam on an enlarged scale.
In Figures 3 and 4 the two needles continue their descending motion and as the
looper needle still goes on turning underneath the needle plate A it winds its
thread around the hook B so that when this hook B ascends again (Fig. 5) it draws
np a loop which forms a chain stitch 5 represented in plan in Figure 6. The
transversal threads 4 and the chain stitches 5 are connected together underneath
the cloth as represented in Figure 6 by the dotted lines and the whole seam thus
forms an edging or overseaming stitch composed of one single thread.
The motion of the stitch producing organs is as follows:-
The needle hook B is operated by the well known means of the Bonnaz universal
feed embroidering machine which need not be described here, again.
The looper needle C is operated in the following way :-)
-Main shaft E (Fig. 7)
is provided with an eccentric which operates pitman F and lever G which swings on
its pivot a; the other end of this lever is provided with a fork 6 (Figures 7 and 8)
which penetrates into the groove of a sleeve H and imparts to same an up and
down motion upon tube I.
A pitman K swings on a pivot c which is secured to sleeve H and is connected
by means of a pivot d with a toothed sector L which swings upon its axle f. This
sector L is in gear with a pinion M (Figures 8 and 10) and imparts to same an

page_text: g
oscillating motion which said pinion transmits to the worm screw N by means of its
tooth (Fig. 10) which penetrátes into slot of said worm screw. Worm screw N
whilst oscillating traverses a nut O which is secured in the frame R and in
consequence of this arrangement this worm screw N is caused to make a
longitudinal up and down motion during its oscillating motion. And as the shaft D
of the looper needle C is secured in this, worm screw, N this looper needle C
executes consequently an oscillating, motion combined with an up and down motion
and this combination of motions allows. the looper needle C to traverse the cloth
and to operate above and underneath the cloth as above described.
The thread which comes from the bobbin goes through tube I, opening m,
shaft D and at last through eye 3 of the circular needle C. Tube 1 is guided at
one end in bracket P and at the other end it is secured in frame R the upper part
of which being cylindrical fits into a circular recess in table Q so that the whole
system of the circular needle and of the parts which operate same can turn in its
axle I.
Figure 11 represents a modification of the parts which operate the looper
needle C. The sleeve H in its 'up and down motion operates a pitman K by means
of a pivot c. Pitman K transmits its motion to lever S by means of pivot d; this
lever S swings upon its fulcrum n which is fixed upon frame R; the other end of
lever S acts upon pivot p of screw nut T; this nut executes therefore an up and
down motion upon the worm screw U which is then caused to oscillate around its
axle and is maintained at both its ends in frame. R. and therefore cannot move
longitudinally.
!t.
Worm screw U is provided with a tooth which penetrates into a groove r
(Fig. 11) of shaft D of the looper needle C which therefore executes the same
oscillating motion whilst the up and down motion of shaft D is obtained by means
of lever V which swings on pivot q and which is operated by sleeve H by means of
pin'c.
J
Figure 12 represents the needle plate A of the machine; the two holes through
which pass the needles B and C are connected together by means of a semicircular
opening which surrounds a tongue 15 around which the overseaming stitch is
formed and from which it slips off when the fabric is drawn away by the feed of
the machine. This tongue prevents also the fabric from being drawn together by
the overseaming stitch.
...
Figures 13 and 14 are, an elevation and plan of part k in combination with. the
looper needle C which in its motion comes close to part k in order to prevent the
thread from slipping out of the groove of the looper needle C which would prevent
the regular formation of the stitch.
• a!
The production of the seam by means of a threaded, needle and a shuttle in
conjunction with the looper needle out of several threads, is as follows:-
The organs and threads producing said stitch are represented in Figures 15
to 18. The looper needle Ċ makes the same 'motion as above described when
working with a needle hook but instead of the chain stitch seam 5 above described
which secures the cross threads 4 of Figure 6 to the material, a lock stitch
(Fig. 19) is produced in the well known manner by means of the thread i of a
threaded needle B' and of a shuttle thread o, thus producing the overseaming work
represented at Figures: 18 and 19, where the cross stitches 4 are secured to the
material by means of the lock stitch threads i and o...
Figures 20 and 21 represent the organs when a threaded needle operates in
conjunction with a shuttle and the helicoidal looper needle C. As the operation of
the latter is above described and need not be repeated, it is necessary to described
the operation of the shuttle only.
The shuttle driver a¹ is secured to the pinion 6 which turns on its shaft c¹ which
is screwed into the casting R. The pinion 'receives its oscillating motion through
the toothed sector d' which swings on its axle g' which is secured to frame R and
the sector d' is operated from sleeve H by means of the link h¹ which secured
to the sleeve H by the stud ¹ and to sector d' by the stud m³.

page_text: The crank handle motion of the frame R and its operating organs in conjunction
with the universal feed, is as follows:-
To produce the work in all directions without turning the cloth the stitch
producing organs are directed by the crank handle W in conformity with the
universal feed of the machine. The crochet hook B or threaded needle B¹ is
turned by the crank handle W in the same way as in the ordinary embroidering
machine, by means of the pinions 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, and the frame R,
tube I, and consequently the organs which are mounted upon the frame R are
turned from the crank handle W by means of pinious 6, 7, 8, shaft u and
pinions v, w, and wheels x, y, the latter wheel y being fixed upon the cylindrical
part of frame R by means of screws Z (Fig. 8).
It is evident that the threaded needle B¹ can also work in combination with a
looper instead of the shuttle a¹. In this case the looper is secured to the pinion. b¹
(Figures 20 and 21) and the needle B' then produces the chain stitch seam below
and the stitching seam above the cloth and the said seams will secure the over-
seaming loops to the material in a similar manner as described above with
reference to the lock-stitch seams and the overseaming loops of the looper
needle C.
improvements in Overseaming Machines.
We, EMILE CORNELY and ROBERT CORNELY, both of 87 Faubourg, St. Denis,
Paris, France Manufacturers of Sewing Machines, do hereby declare the nature of
tifis invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
The object of the present invention is the construction of a machine for producing
an edging or overseaming stitch with universal feed. The seam is produced by
means of a helicoidal shaped looper needle to which an oscillating motion is
imparted combined with an up and downward motion which in this operation
traverses the cloth, winds its thread around the needle above the cloth, then
descends and winds its thread around the needle below the cloth, and thus produces
overseaming stitches which are secured to the cloth by means of the seam which is
produced by a needle hook or by a threaded needle.
On the accompanying drawings the arrangement for the production of the seam
by means of the helicoidal looper needle in combination with a needle hook out
of a single thread is shewn on,-Figures 1 to 5 which represent on an enlarged scale
the organs which produce the stitch; these organs are composed of a crochet
hook B and of a cork-screw shaped helicoidal looper needle C which in their
motions traverse the holes 1 and 2 of the needle plate A. The looper needle C is
fixed in shaft D and is provided with an eye 3 through which passes the thread
which comes from the bobbin through the hollow shaft D. An oscillating motion
is imparted to the looper needle C on its axle, and at the same time an up and :
down motion is communicated to it.
In Figure 1 the looper needle C whilst turning has accomplished its upward
motion, has gone through the cloth and has presented its loop 4 to the needle
hook B which then penetrates into this loop. In Figure 2 both needles descend,
hook B maintains the loop 4 which is deposited upon the cloth as shewn in Figure 6,
which represents a plan of the seam on an enlarged scale.
In Figures 3 and 4 both needles continue their descending motion and as the

page_text: looper needle, still goes on turning underneath, the needle plate A, it. winds its
thread around the hook B so that when this book ascends, again (Fig. 5) it draws
up, a loop which, forms, a: chain stitch 5 represented in plan, in Figure 6. The
transversal threads, 4, and the chain stitches 5 are, connected together underneath
the cloth, as represented in Figure 6 by the, dotted lines, and the whole seam..thus
forms an edging or overseaming stitch composed, of, one single thread.
"The motion of the stitch-producing organs is as follows:
The needle hook B is operated by the well known means of the Bonnaz.universal
feed embroidering machine which,need not be described here, again.
The looper needle C is operated in the following way:Main shaft E (Fig. 7);is
provided with an eccentric which operates pitman F and lever G, which swings on
its pivot a the other, end, of this lever is provided with a fork 6 (Figs. 7 and 8)
which penetrates into the groove of sleeve. H. and imparts, to same an up and down
motion upon, tube I.
1
A pitman K swings on a pivot, c which is secured, to sleeve H and is.connected
by means of a pivot d, with a toothed sector L which swings on its axle, f. This
sector L is in gear with a pinion, M (Figs. 8 and 10) and imparts to, same an
oscillating motion which said pinion transmits to the worm screw N by means, of its
tooth g (Fig. 10) which penetrates into slot, of said warm screw. W orm screw N
whilst oscillating traverses a nut O which is secured in the frame R, and in
consequence of this arrangement this worm screw N is caused to make a longitudinal
up and down motion during its oscillating motion. And as the shaft D of the
looper needle Cis secured in this worm screw N, this looper needle C executes
consequently an oscillating motion combined with an up and down motion, and this
combination of motions allows the looper needle C to traverse the cloth and to
operate above and underneath the cloth as above described. The thread which
comes from the bobbin goes through tube I, opening m shaft D and at last through
eye 3 of the circular neodla C. Tube Lisguided, at one, and in bracket P and at
the other end it is secured in frame R the upper part of which being cylindrical
fits into a circulas recess in tabla.Qso that the whole system of the circular.needle
and of the parts which operate same can turn on (its.axle I.
Figure 11; represents anmodification of the parts whichnoperate thei-looper
needle C. The sleeve-Hin its up and down motion operates a pitman Keby means
of a pivot c. Pitman, K transmits, its motion to lever S by means of pivot d; this
lever S.swings upon its fulcrum,n,which is fixed,upon frame R; the other end.of.
lever. S.,acts., upon pivot,,p,pf,screw nut T; this ;nut.executes, therefore, an..up
and down motion upon the worm screw. U,which is then caused, to oscillate around
its, axle and is maintained at, both its ends in frame, R, and therefore cannot moye
longitudinally.
Worm screw U, is, provided with a tooth which penetrates into a groove; r.
(Fig. 11) of shaft D of the looper, needle C which therefore, executes the same
oscillating motion, whilst the up and down,motion, of shaft D is obtained, by means
of lever V. which swings; on pivot q.and which is operated by sleeve H by means of
pin c.
Figure 12 represents the needle plate A of the machine; the two holes through
which pass the needles B and C are connected together by means of a semi-circular
opening, which, surrounds a tongue 15 around which the overseaming stitch :is
formed and from which it, slips off when. the fabric is drawn away, by the feed of
the machine. This tongue prevents,also, the fabric from being drawn together; by
the overseaming stitch.
Figures 13 and 14 are an elevation of and a plan of part,k.in. combination with
the looper needle C..which in tits,motion,comes close to, part k in order to prevent
the thread from slipping out of the groove of the looper. needle C, which, would
prevent the regular formation of the stitch.
Figures 25, 26 and 27 represent, another construction of the driving apparatus of
the looper needle C. The sleeve H drives, a pitman 20.which is secured at 21 to
lever 22 which swings on stud 23; a second pitman 24 is secured at 25.to lever.22

page_text: and operates lever 26 which swings on its stud 27... The stud 28 extends into the.
collar 29 of the hollow shaft 30 which latter thus receives an up and downwar!
motion while its turning motion is produced by the action of toothed sector L upon
pinion M. A dovetailed piece 31 (Figs. 25 and 27) is secured in the hub of
pinion M and its flat inner side bears against a corresponding flat of tube 30.
(Figs. 25 and 27) so that the latter turns with pinion M at. the same time while it
is driven up and downward by the action of lever 26 to operate the looper needle C,
the shaft of which, D, is secured to tube 30 by means of screw 36. In this
disposition the driving screw O is entirely dispensed with, thus obtaining a more
accurate operation of the looper needle C and affording a far better wear.
The production of the seam by means of a threaded needle and a shuttle in
conjunction with the looper needle out of several threads is as follows -
The organs and threads producing said stitch are represented in Figures 15.
to 18. The looper needle C makes the same motion as above described when
working with a needle hook but instead of the chain stitch seam 5 above described
which secures the cross threads 4 of Figure 6 to the material, a lock-stitch (Fig. 19) is
produced in the well-known manner by means of the thread i of a threaded needle B'
and of a shuttle thread o, thus producing the overseaming work represented at
Figs. 18 and 19 where the cross stitches 4 are secured to the material by means of
the lock-stitch threads i and o.
Figures 20 and 21 represent the organs when a threaded needle operates in
conjunction with a shuttle and the helicoidal looper needle C. As the operation of
the latter is above described and need not be repeated, it is necessary to describe
the operation of the shuttle only.
The shuttle driver a' is secured to the pinion which turns on its shaft e¹ which
is screwed into the casting R. The pinion 6' receives its oscillating motion through
the toothed sector d' which swings on its axle g¹ which is secured to frame R and
the sector is operated from sleeve H by means of the link: ¹ which is secured
to the sleeve H by the stud ¹ and to sector d¹ by the stud m'.
The crank handle motion of the frame R and its operating organs in conjunction
with the universal feed is as follows:-
To produce the work in all directions without turning the cloth the stitch
producing organs are directed by the crank-handle W (Fig. 7) in conformity with
the universal feed of the machine. The crochet hook B or threaded needle B' is
turned by the crank handle W in the same way as in the ordinary embroidering
machine by means of the pinions 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13 and 14 and the frame R,
tube I and consequently the organs which are mounted upon the frame R, are
turned from the crank handle W by means of pinions 6, 7, 8 shaft u, pinions v, w
and wheels and y, the latter wheel y being fixed upon the cylindrical part of
frame R by means of screw z (Fig. 8).
It is evident that the threaded needle B₁ can also work in combination with a
looper instead of the shuttle a'. In this case the looper is secured to the pinion bl
(Figs. 20 & 21) and the needle B¹ then produces the chain stitch seam below, and
the stitching seam above the cloth, (as shewn in plan and section in Figs. 23
and 24), and the said seam will secure the overseaming loops to the material in a
similar manner as described above with reference to the lock stitch seams and the
overseaming loops of the looper needle C.
The formation of the stitch by means of a threaded needle and a looper is
represented in front and side views in Figures 22, 224, 22B and 28.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-.
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we
claim is :-
1. The co-operation of a helicoidal looper needle with a hooked or threaded
needle for the purpose of producing an edging or overseaming stitch substantially
in the manner herein described.
2. The transmission of motion from the main shaft of the machine to the

page_text: helicoidal needle in order to impart to said helicoidal needle an oscillating motion
combined with an up and down motion substantially as described.
3. The arrangement of the organs which permits of the helicoidal needle being
governed by the crank handle of the machine in conformity with the universal feed
for the production: of the overseaming stitch in every direction without turning the
material, as described..