Improved Method of and Means for Attaching Hat Leathers and Grease-proof Bands or Linings to Hats.
Year: 1889

page_text: Date of Application, 11th June, 1889
Complete Specification Left, 11th Mar., 1890-Accepted, 12th Apr., 1890
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improved Method of and Means for Attaching Hat Leathers and
Grease-proof Bands or Linings to Hats.
We, THOMAS MARSDEN COCKROFT of 11 Sharrow Street, Sheffield in the County
of York, Machinist, and ROGER FARMER, of 16. School Croft, Sheffield, Mechanic,
do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
Our invention relates to the attachment of hat leathers and grease-proof bands or
linings to hats and similar head coverings by means of sewing machines and consists
in an improved method of and means for effecting this object.
The machines hitherto made for sewing the hat leather direct to the hat with a
strong needle require to have the stitches widely apart in order to preserve the
strength of the hat brim and cannot produce the desired close stitching. Instead of
sewing the hat leather to the inner edge or band mark of the hat body directly, we
first sew or simultaneously form and sew a cord near to the inner edge of the hat
brim by a special machine sewing the grease proof band or other lining, when used,
inside of the hat to the inner edge of the band mark by the same operation, and then
sew to the cord the hat leather by means of a row of connected stitches imitating
hand whipping on another machine. Or instead of the process of first sewing a cord
to the brim and the hat leather to this cord, we in some cases attach a hat leather
(previously prepared with an edging cord or reed cover and a row of ornamental
stitches) to the hat by sewing said cord or reed cover to the brim
near to its
inner edge, attaching simultaneously a grease-proof band or lining when such
is used.
On the four sheets of drawings appended hereunto
Fig. 1 shows a front view of the machine for sewing cords to hats with the shuttle-
box and hat in section.
Fig. 2 a cross section of the same along line y on fig. 1, looking towards the
driving end.
Fig. 3 a plan of the shuttle box with shuttle driver and shuttle.
Fig. 4 a side view of the shuttle.
Fig. 5 a plan and side view of the spring lid for shuttle driver.
Fig. 6 a front view of the presser.
Fig. 7a view of the same as seen from below.
Fig. 8a general view of the machine for sewing a hat leather to a cord previously,
sewn to the hat.
Fig. 9 a front view and fig. 10 an end view of the head of the machine.
Fig. 11 views of the needle swing link from the back and edge.
Fig. 12 front and side views of the stitch-holder,
Fig. 13 side and back view of the guide for the same.
Fig. 14 a back view of the. looper and shield.
Fig. 15 a view of the under side of the same.
Diagram I Sheet I shows the method of sewing a hat leather previously prepared
with a cord or reed cover and a greaseproof hand or lining to the hat.
Diagrams II, III and IV show the formation of the stitch for sewing a hat leather
to a cord previously sewn to the hat.
With the exception of figs. 1, 2 and 8, the figures show the respective parts in
full size.
Ordinary lock stitch sewing machines as at present constructed are not adapted for
the purpose of sewing a cord on the inner edge of a hat brim-because the hat cannot
be placed into the required position for sewing on a vertical needle machine with an
arm or flat bedplate, and if it could be placed inte position on such machines the

page_text: stitching would pass vertically through the brim from the top to the underside of the
hat brim. Such stitches are unsightly and moreover destroy the waterproof character
of the hat. These drawbacks are obviated by our improved machine, in which we
lead a cord by suitable guides across the path of the needle and cause the latter to
penetrate through the cord and hat brim at an angle to the plane of the hat brim.
The needle after penetrating through the hat enters through a needle slot into a
horizontal circular shuttlebox in the cavity of the hat and the shuttle is passed through
the needle loop, by which means a lock stitch is formed showing one line of stitches
on the cord and brim and the other line inside the cavity of the hat, which latter is
concealed from view when the hat leather is sewn in.
C
The machine, figs. 1 and 2, is made with an overhanging arm A, to the side of which
the plate a with bosses a²² is screwed and guides a reciprocating needle bar b in an
inclined position as shown. The needle-bar receives its motion from the grooved
cam C (indicated in lines dotted with short strokes on fig. 1) through the link band
lever, the runner 3 of which enters the groove of came in the usual way. The
take-up lever d vibrates on a stud d' on the plate a and passes through a slot 6' in the
needle bar and is of a well known type. To the front end of the arm A a bracket e
is fixed and supports at its lower end a circular shuttle box e', which is bevilled at the
side towards the needle as shewn. The bracket e is formed with two lugs &² c³ which
are bored out for the vertical spindle f. The latter has fixed to its lower end the
shuttle driver f¹ and to its top the segmental spur pinion f. The spindle f receives
an oscillating motion through the rack engaging with the pinion f. The rack
rides on the bracket e at the front end and is guided at the back between guides f
and carries a stud with runner which engages in the groove of cam f³ on the main
shaft B. The shuttle 7 is curved to an are of a circle on its outer side as shewn by
fig. 3 with a projecting nose g¹, being in the middle of the thickness of the shuttle,
and is bevilled from the underside of the point of the nose towards the centre of the
shuttle and cut away on the underside at the rear end to give clearance for the loop.
as shewn by fig. 4. It is recessed for the thread spool g² and has a tension spring g³
screwed to its side, the thread from the spool being threaded through the hole g¹ and
under spring 3 through the hole g in the usual manner. The shuttle is held down
in the carrier by the lid g. This lid is kept down by the spring g' (fig. 1) surrounding
the spindle f and held in its place by pegg on the shuttledriver fitting into a hole g
in the spring lid. When the shuttle has passed through the loop formed by the needle
and is returning, the shuttle thread passes into the slot " of the spring lid and is
thus prevented from getting under the nose of the shuttle, the end g of the plate
being bent down to press upon the top of the spool g².
A bar (fig. 1) is adjustable in V slides ¹³ fixed to the face of the overhanging
arm A and fixed into position by screws ha h It has attached to it the presser h³
(figs. 1, 6 and 7) carrying a presser wheel 7 on stud 7 slightly inclined to the
horizontal. To the presser h a cord guide is attached by screws and adjustable
laterally by a set screw screwed through it and pressing against the presser ². The
cord guide has a groove on the under side as shewn by fig. 7.
Extending lengthwise of the base plate C of the machine, a plate i is pivotted at
the back end as shewn by figs. 1 and 2 and pressed upwards by a blade spring i fixed
to the base plate C. The plate i carries two bearings for the feed wheel shaft.
This shaft is made telescopic in two parts and , the latter being bored out and the
former sliding into it. A feed wheel slightly conical and milled on the edge is fixed
to the part by a screw or its equivalent. A helical spring 8 is inserted into the
hollow of the shaft . A catterpasses through a slot in the shaft and is fixed
in the shaft, so that the rotation of the latter takes the shaft and feed wheel
round. A collar is formed on shaft. by means of which and the lever & the feed
wheel can be drawn back. The lever turns on a pillar stud fixed to the base
plate C. An incline is formed on the plate and as the lever is moved towards the
back end of the machine, it depresses the plate i and parts mounted upon it while
moving the feed wheel back. A catch swivelling on the screw stud 13 and depressed
at its back end by a blade spring fixed to plate i catches the lever k when moved

page_text: back and holds the feed wheel out of contact with the shuttlebox e and presser
wheel while a hat is placed into the machine. The shaft receives an intermittent
motion from the cam on the machine shaft through the slide bar and clutch
lever. The slide bar is guided in guides 13 fixed to the machine frame and held
up by a V spring and is slotted at the lower end, the lever entering the slot as
shewn. The lever is pulled down at the front end by a spring 15, fig. 1, upon the
head of an adjustable screw and held in this way till depressed at the other end by
the cam and bar 1, the amount of its movement being regulated by the screw o
and imparts a corresponding small intermittent rotary movement to the shaft + and
feed wheel in the well known manner.
A stud m with an inclined shank m is screwed to the base plate C and adjustable
in a slot m² of the same and has freely mounted on it a wheel m³ the edge of which is
covered with an india rubber hoop n. This wheel is set so as to be in contact with
the crown of the hat as shewn by fig. 1 and in combination with the conical feed
wheel, bevilled shuttlebox e¹ and inclined presser wheel holds the hat in the
position' shown in the machine.
The action of the machine when attaching a cord and grease proof, band or lining
at the same time is as follows:
The cord is drawn from a bobbin D through a hole in a stud 411 fixed to the presser
bar and thence under the cord guide . The grease proof hand or lining E is held
in the position required for sewing by means of gummed strips of tape or other well-
known means. The hat is placed into position while the feed wheel is drawn back,
after which the feed wheel. is brought into contact with it.
The needle thread is
taken from a bobbin F through thread guides n n', round the tension pulley n²,
through thread guide n³, the eyelet of the take-up d, and a guide at the end of the
needle bar b, thence through the needle eye. The needle in its descent penetrates
through the cord hat and grease proof band or lining in the succession named and
enters the shuttlebox through the needle slot et in the same and on its return stroke
forms a loop on its underside through which the shuttle is passed. While completing
its return-stroke the taker-up pulls the loop tight and the shuttle returns to its
position behind the needle, the hat being carried forward by the feed motion at the
same time. In this way a lock stitch is formed, the needle thread showing on the
cord and the shuttle thread on the grease proof band or lining, where it is hid from
view by the hat leather subsequently attached to the cord.
The cord instead of being supplied from a bobbin, may be formed on the machine
by a cord former of similar construction as that described and illustrated in Specifica-
tion No. 15,804 of 1887 and fixed to the machine. In that case the needle is timed
to pass between the two threads carried by the cord former and so attach the cord
formed to the brim of the hat.
In attaching a hat leather already prepared with a cord and ornamental stitches, I
insert the hat leather through the opening formed by the shuttlebox el bracket c and
presser, placing the cord or reed cover under the bevilled edge of the presser
wheel, which guides the latter and presents it to the needle in the position required
A hat leather so
for the latter to pass through it, as shown by Diagram I, Sheet 1.
introduced into the machine will be connected to the hat by the top part of the stitch,
whilst the under part is inside the crown of the hat and may be utilised to attach a
grease proof-band or lining in the manner herein before described.
For attaching a hat leather to the cord sewn to the band mark of the hat in the
manner and by the machine herein before described, I employ a machine arranged as
shewn by fig. 8 in an elevation. This machine is arranged with a spring supported
table and feed wheel mounted upon a telescopic shaft and actuated by a clutch lever
in a similar manner as in the machine herein before described for sewing cords to hat
brims. The feed wheel presses the hat to which the cord has previously been attached
against a presser o figs. 9 and 10 attached to the Tee shaped face plate I fixed to the
end of the overhanging arm K of the machine. This presser carries a horizontal
pulley and two conical vertical pulleys of 0³, the brim of the hat being pressed
against the former and the inside of the crown with the hat-leather in it against the

page_text: latter. The hat leather is held in the hat by the same means as described in the
Specification No. 15,804 of 1887 of the sewing machine for attaching hat leathers to
huts patented by T. M. Cockroft. The front end of the presser o is curled or bent
so as to rest upon the hat brim and serve as a guide to bring the hat leather against
the cord into the exact position required.
The needle is curved and carried by a swing link pl vibrating on a stud p² fixed
to the face plate I. The needle is inserted into a lateral groove 73, fig. 11, near the
end of the swing link and secured by a set screw p. Below. the stud and behind
the presser o a guide block p5 shewn by figs. 9 and 13 is fixed to the face plate I. A
stitch holder p (figs. 9 and 12) slides in this guide p and is held up by a spring p
attached to it and the guide p53. The needle swing link pl has on the side next to the
machine frame, part of the boss 73 cut away and a rounded corner formed on it as
shewn by fig. 11. This boss acts as a cam and depresses the stitch holder firmly
upon the brim, cord, and leather of the hat just behind the needle and holds the stitch
last formed firmly while the next stitch is formed and completed, being taken off the
hat only while the needle is in its extreme backward position at which time the feed
takes place.
On the face plate I an oscillating looper is mounted on a stud q', figs. 9, 10, 14
and 15. This looper is formed with a segmental spur wheel and actuated by a
rack in the same way as the looper in the machine described in the Specification
herein before referred to, and is of similar shape except that it is bent back nearer to
the presser at its bottom end; and has attached to it a shield (figs. 10, 14 and 15.
shewing underside) the purpose of which is explained herein further on.
The machine has arms M and N for passing the shuttle from one side to the other
arranged and operated in the same way as those of the machine described in the
Specification herein before referred to. The take-up 1 oscillates on a stud at the
side of the overhanging arm and is operated in the ordinary manner.
The thread for the needle is taken from a bobbin L through the tension studs, the
thread guide the eye of the take-up, and thread guide . to and through
the bore of the swing link to the needle eye.
The action of the machine is as follows:
The hat with the hat leather to be attached is inserted into the machine between
the feed-wheel and the presser o, the needle being in its backmost position and the
arms M and N at their greatest distance from one another, the shuttle being in the
right hand arm N. The needle advances and penetrates through the cord previously
sewn to the hat in the manner hereinbefore described and the hat leather in a nearly
horizontal direction, the arms M and N approaching each other at the same time and
transferring the shuttle from the right arm N to the left arm M, after which the arms
recede from each other. The needle in receding forms a loop as shown by Diagram IV
which the looper seizes and opens out as indicated by dotted lines on fig. 10; the
arms M. and N approach each other again and the shuttle is passed through the loop
from the left arm M to the right arm N. While the looper opens out the loop, the
take-up moves forward and pays out the needle thread. After the shuttle has been
passed through the loop, the looper returns to its vertical position, the needle completes
its return stroke into the position shown by figs. 8 and 9, the take-up pulls the loop
down to the face of the leather: the shuttle box arm N then completes its backward
motion and the shuttle thread draws the loop up on the cord. Just before the needle
attains its backmost position, the cam 78 at the back of the needle swing arm releases
the stitch holder and the spring 27 pulls it up. At this moment the feed wheel
moves the hat the space of a stitch. The arm Non attaining its backmost position
brings the shuttle thread, which has passed through the loop, behind the needle as
indicated at, Diagram II. As the needle commences its next descent, the cam
presses the stitch-holder down upon the cord and stitch just formed, and holds it and
the shuttle thread while the needle penetrates through the cord and leather again.
By the next transfer of the shuttle from the right arm N to the left arm M the shuttle
thread is taken round or under the needle, and carried against and below the shield q
as indicated by Diagram IV so that the looper in swinging out cannot seize the

page_text: shuttlethread, which is then carried through the loop as herein before described. The
shuttle thread is thus successively passed through the loop and behind the needle
thread until the needle next penetrates through the cord and leather, thus producing
the stitch shewn by Diagram III on an enlarged scale. Diagram 11 shows the same
stitch further enlarged and with the loops only partly drawn up to the cord, so as to
show the nature of the interlacing more clearly.
Dated this the Eighth day of June 1889.
THOMAS MARSDEN COCKROFT,
Agent for Applicants.
Improved Method of and Means for Attaching Hat Leathers and
Grease-proof Bands or Linings to Hats.
We, THOMAS MARSDEN COCKROFT, of 12, Commercial Street, Leeds, in the County of
York, Machinist, and ROGER FARMER, of 16, School Croft, Sheffield, Mechanic.
do hereby déclare the nature of this invention, and in what manner the same is
to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement:
Our invention relates to the attachment of hat leathers and grease proof bands or
linings to hats and similar head coverings by means of sewing machines and consists
in an improved method of and means for effecting this object.
The machines hitherto made for sewing the leathers direct to the hat with a strong
needle require to have the stitches widely apart in order to preserve the strength of
the hat brim and cannot produce the desired close stitching.
.
"
"
Instead of sewing the hat leather to the inner edge or band mark of the hat
body directly, we first sew or simultaneously form and sew a cord near to the inner
edge of the hat brim by a special machine, sewing the grease proof band or other
lining when used, inside of the hat to the inner edge of the bandmark by the
same operation, and then sew to the cord the hat leather by means of a row of
connected stitches imitating hand whipping, on another machine. Or instead of the
process of first sewing a cord to the brim and the hat leather to this cord, we in some
cases attach a hat leather previously prepared with an edging cord or reed cover,
and a row of ornamental stitches to the hat by sewing said cord or reed cover to the
brim near to its inner edge, attaching simultaneously a grease proof band or lining
when such is used.
On the four sheets of drawings sent in with the provisional specification,
Fig. 1 shows a front view of the machine for sewing cords to hats with the
shuttle box and hat in section.
Fig. 2. a cross section of the same along line r, y on fig. 1, looking towards
the driving end.
Fig. 3. a plan of the shuttlebox with shuttle driver and shuttle.
Fig. 4. a side view of the shuttle.
Fig. 5. a plan and side view of the spring lid for shuttle driver.
Fig. 6. a front view of the presser.
Fig. 7. a view of the same as seen from below.
Fig. 8. a general view of the machine for sewing a hat leather to a cord pre-
viously sewn to the hat.
Fig. 9. a front view, and fig. 10 an end view of the head of the machine.
Fig. 11. views of the needle swing link from the back and edge.
Fig. 12. front and side views of the stitch holder.
Fig. 13. side and back view of the guide for the same.
Fig. 14. a back view of the looper and shield.
Fig. 15. a view of the under side of the same.
Diagram Sheet I shows the method of sewing a hat leather previously pre-
pared with a cord or reed cover and a grease proof band or lining to the hat.

page_text: Diagrams II. III and IV show the formation of the stitch for sewing a hat leather
to a cord previously sewn to the hat.
With the exception of figures 1, 2, and 8, the figures show the respective parts in
full side.
Ordinarily lock stitch sewing machines as at present constructed are not adapted
for the purpose of sewing a cord on the inner edge of a hat brim because the
hat cannot be placed into the required position for sewing on a vertical needle
machine with an arm or flat bed plate, and if it could be placed into position on
such machines the stitching would pass vertically through the brim from the top,
to the underside of the hat brim. Such stitches are unsightly and moreover
destroy the waterproof character of the hat. These drawbacks are obviated by our
improved machine, in which we lead a cord by suitable guides across the path of
the needle and cause the latter to penetrate through the cord and hat brini at an
angle to the plane of the hat brim. The needle after penetrating through the hat
enters through a needle slot into a horizontal circular shuttle box in the cavity of
the hat, and the shuttle is passed through the needle loop, by which means a lock-
stitch is formed showing one line of stitches on the cord and brim. and the other line
inside the cavity of the hat, which latter is concealed from view when the lat leather
is sewn in.
The machine figs. 1 and 2 is made with an overhanging arm A to the side of which
the plate a, with bosses a¹² is screwed and guides a reciprocating needle bar in an
inclined position as shewn. The needle bar receives its motion from the grooved
cam C (indicated in lines dotted with short strokes on figure 1) through the link
and lever, the runner 3 of which enters the groove of cam C in the usual
way.
"
"
The take up lever d vibrates on a stud d' on the plate and passes through a slot 5*
in the needlebar 6 and is of a well known type. To the front end of the arm A a
bracket is fixed and supports at its lower end a circular shuttle box e, which is
bevilled at the side towards the needle as shewn.
The bracket is formed with two lugs which are bored out for the vertical
spindle f. The latter has fixed to its lower end, the shuttle driver f¹ and to its top
the segmental spur pinion f2. The spindle f receives an oscillating motion through
the rack engaging with the pinion f. The rack rides on the bracket c at the front
end and is guided at the back between guides fi ft and carries a stud with runner
which engages in the groove of cam f on the main shaft B. The shuttle is curved
to an arc of the circle on its outer side as shewn by fig. 3 with a projecting nose g
being in the middle of the thickness of the shuttle, and is bevilled from the underside of
the point of the nose towards the centre of the shuttle, and cut away on the underside
at the rear end to give clearance for the loop, as shewn by fig. 4. It is recessed for the
thread spool g and has a tension spring g³ screwed to its side, the thread from the spool
being threaded through the hole g and under spring g³ through the hole g³ in the
usual manner.
The shuttle is held down in the carrier by the lid g. This lid.is kept down by the
spring g (fig. 1) surrounding the spindle f and held in its place by a peggs on the
shuttle driver fitting into a hole gª in the spring lid. When the shuttle has passed
through the loop formed by the needle and is returning, the shuttle thread passes into
the slot go of the spring lid and is thus prevented from getting under the nose of the
shuttle, the end of the plate being bent down to press upon the top of the
spool g².
fixed to the face of the overhanging
It has attached to it the presser
on stud slightly inclined to the
is attached by screws º º and
through it and pressing against the
A bar (fig. 1) is adjustable in V slides
arm A and fixed in position by screws h³ h'.
(figs. 1, 6 and 7) carrying a presser wheel 4
horizontal. To the presser h a cord guide
adjustable laterally by a set screw 10 screwed
presser 75. The cord guide has a groove on the underside as shewn by fig. 7.
Extending lengthwise of the baseplate C of the machine, a plate is pivotted at
the back end as shewn by figs. 1 and 2 and pressed upwards by a blade spring i¹ fixed

page_text: to the base plate C. The plate carries two bearings for the feed wheel shaft.
This shaft is made telescopic in two parts and, the latter being bored out and the
'formed sliding in it. A feed wheel slightly conical on the edge is fixed to the part
by a screw or its equivalent. A helical spring is inserted into the hollow of the
shaft a cotter passes through a slot in the shaft and is fixed in the shaft **, So
that the rotation of the latter takes the shaft and feed wheel 6 round. A collar is
formed on shaft, by means of which and the lever 'the feed wheel can be drawn
back. The lever & turns on a pillar stud fixed to the base plate C. An incline ¿¹
is formed on the plate i and as the 'lever is moved towards the back end of the machine,
it depresses the plate i and parts mounted upon it while moving the feed wheel back.
A catch swivelling on the screw stud and depressed at its back end by a blade
spring fixed to plate catches the lever when moved back and holds the feed
wheel out of contact with the shuttle box e and presser wheel while a bat is placed
into the machine. The shaft receives an intermittent motion from the cam / on the
machine shaft through the slide bar and clutch lever. The slide bar is guided
in guides fixed to the machine frame and is held up by a V spring, and slotted at
the lower end, the lever entering the slot as shewn. The lever is pulled
down at the front end by a spring (fig. 1) upon the head of an adjustable screw 16
and held in this way till depressed at the other end by the cam and bar 1, the
amount of its movement being regulated by the screw 76, and imparts a
sponding small intermittent rotary movement to the shaft and feed wheel in
the well known manner.
corre
A stud m with an inclined shank m³ is screwed to the base plate C and adjustable
in a slot m² of the same and has freely mounted on it a wheel m³ the edge of
which is covered with an indiarubber hoop m³. This wheel is set so as to be in contact
with the crown of the hat as shewn by fig. 1 and in combination with the conical feed
wheel, bevilled shuttle box c and inclined presser wheel 6 holds the hat in the
position shewn in the machine.
The action of the machine when attaching a cord and grease proof band or lining at
the same time is as follows:-The cord is drawn from a bobbin D through a hole in a
stud fixed to the presser bar h and thence under the cord guide hs. The grease proof
band or lining E is held in the position required for sewing by means of gummed strips
of tape or other well known means.
The hat is placed into position while the feed wheel is drawn back, after which the
feed wheel is brought into contact with it. The needle thread is taken from a
bobbin F through thread guides n. n¹, round the tension pulley 2, through thread
guide 3, the eyelet of the take-up D, and a guide at the end of the needle bar b,
thence through the needle eye.
The needle in its descent penetrates through the cord, hat and grease proof band
or lining in the succession named and enters the shuttlebox through the needle
slot in the same and on its return stroke forms a loop on its underside through
which the shuttle is passed. While completing its return stroke the take up d
pulls the loop tight and the shuttle returns to its position behind the needle, the hat
being brought forward by the feed motion at the same time. In this way a lockstitch
is produced the needle thread shewing on the cord and the shuttle thread on the
grease proof band or lining, where it is hid from view by the hat, leather subsequently
attached to the cord.
The cord instead of being supplied from a bobbin, may be formed on the machine
by a cord former of similar construction as that described and illustrated in Specifica-
tion No. 15.801 of 1887 and fixed to the machine. In that case the needle is timed
to pass between the two threads carried by the cord former and so attach the cord
formed to the brim of the hat.
In attaching a hat leather already prepared with a cord and ornamental stitches,
we insert the hat leather through the opening formed by the shuttle box e¹ bracket e
and presser ho, placing the cord or reed cover under the bevilled edge of the presser
wheel he, which guides the reed cover and presents it to the needle in the position
required for the latter to pass through it as shewn by Diagram I, Sheet I.

page_text: A hat leather so introduced into the machine will be connected to the hat by the top
part of the stitch, whilst the under part is inside the crown of the hat and may
be utilised to attach a grease proof band or lining in the manner herein before
'described.
For attaching a hat leather to the cord sewn to the "band mark" of the hat in
the manner and by the machine herein before described, we employ a machine arranged
as shown by fig. 8 in an elevation. This machine is arranged with a spring supported
table and feed wheel mounted upon a telescopic shaft and actuated by a clutch
lever in a similar manner as in the machine herein before described for sewing cords
to hat brims.
The feed wheel presses the hat to which the cord has previously been attached
against a presser o (figs.9 and 10) attached to the Tee shaped faceplate I fixed to the end
of the overhanging arm K of the machine. This presser carries a horizontal pulley o¹
and two conical vertical pulleys o³, the brim of the hat being pressed against the
former and the inside of the crown with the hat leather in it against the latter.
The hat leather is held in the hat by the same means as described in the Specifica-
tion No. 15,804 of 1887 of the sewing machine for attaching hat leathers to hats
patented by T. M. Cockroft.
The front end of the presser o is curled or bent so as to rest upon the hat
brim and serve as a guide to bring the hat leather against the cord into the exact
position required.
The needle p is curved and carried by a swing link pl vibrating on a stud p² fixed
to the face plate I. The needle is inserted into a lateral groove 23 fig. 11 near the
end of the swing link and secured by a set screw p. Below the stud p² and behind
the presser o, a guide block p³ shewn by figs. 9 and 13 is fixed to the face plate I. A
stitch holder (figs. 9 and 12) slides in this guide p² and is held up by a spring p²
attached to it and the guide p. The needle swing link has on the side next to the
machine frame, part of the boss 8 cut away and a rounded corner formed on it as
shewn by fig. 11. This boss acts as a cam and depresses the stitch holder firmly
upon the brim cord and leather of the hat just behind the needle and holds the stitch
last formed firmly while the next stitch is formed and completed, being taken off the
hat only while the needle is in its extreme backward position at which time the feed
takes place.
On the face plate I an oscillating looper is mounted on a stud 1 figs. 9, 10, 14,
and 15. This looper is formed with a segmental spur wheel 22, and actuated by a
rack in the same way as the looper of the machine described in the specification
herein before referred to, and is of similar shape except that it is bent back nearer to
the presser at its bottom end; and has attached to it a shield (figs. 9, 10, 14
and 15) (shewing underside), the purpose of which is explained herein further on.
The machine has arms M and N for passing the shuttler from one side to the other
arranged and operated in the same way as those of the machine described in the
specification herein before referred to. The take-up ¹ oscillates on a stud 2 at the
side of the overhanging arm and is operated in the ordinary manner.
The thread for the needle is taken from a bobbin L through the tension studs the
thread guides, the eye of the take-up and thread guides and through the bore p
of the swing link p¹ to the needle eye.
The action of the machine is as follows:-The hat with the hat leather to be
attached is inserted into the machine between the feed wheel and the presser o, the
needle being in its backmost position and the arms M and N at their greatest
distance from one another, the shuttle being in the right hand arm N.
The needle advances and penetrates through the cord previously sewn to the hat in
the manner herein before described, and the hat leather in a nearly horizontal direction,
the arms M and N approaching each other at the same time and transferring the
shuttle from the right arm N to the left arm M after which the arms recede from each
other. The needle in retiring forms a loop as shewn by Diagram IV which the looper
seizes and opens out as indicated by dotted lines on fig. 10: the arms M and N
approach each other again and the shuttle is passed through the loop from the left

page_text: arm M to the right arm N. While the looper opens out the loop, the take-up moves
forward and pays out the needle thread. After the shuttle has been passed through
the loop, the looper returns to its vertical position, the needle completes its return
stroke into the position shewn by figs. 8 and 9, the take-up pulls the loop down to
the face of the leather; the shuttle box arm N then completes its backward motion
and the shuttle thread draws the loop up on the cord. Just before the needle attains
its backmost position, the camp at the back of the needle swing arm releases the
stitch holder p and the spring 7 pulls it up.
At this moment the feed wheel moves the
hat the space of a stitch.
The arm N attaining its backmost position brings the shuttle thread which has
passed through the loop behind the needle as indicated at . Diagram II. As the
needle commences its next descent, the cam presses the stitch holder down upon
the cord and stitch just formed, and holds it and the shuttle thread while the needle
penetrates through the cord and leather again. By the next transfer of the
shuttle from the right arm N to the left arm M the shuttle thread is taken round
or under the needle, and carried against and below the shield as indicated by
Diagram IV so that the looper in swinging out cannot seize the shuttle thread,
which is then carried through the loop as herein before described. The shuttle thread
is thus successively passed through the loop and behind the needle thread until the
needle next penetrates through the cord and leather, thus producing the stitch
shewn by Diagram III on an enlarged scale. Diagram II shews the same stitch
further enlarged and with the loops only partly drawn up to the cord, so as to show
the nature of the interlacing more clearly.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, we declare that what we
claim is
Firstly. Attaching hat leathers to hats by first sewing a cord to the inner edge
of the hat and then sewing the hat leather to the said cord by means of special
sewing machines substantially as herein before described.
Secondly. Attaching a hat leather already prepared with A reed cover and
ornamental stitching and a grease proof band to a hat simultaneously by means of a
sewing machine substantially as described.
Thirdly. A sewing machine for sewing simultaneously a cord and a grease proof
band to a hat constructed substantially as herein specified and described with reference
to figures 1 to 7 of the drawings.
Fourthly. The combined use of a sewing machine for sewing a cord and grease-
proof band to a hat constructed substantially as herein specified and described with
reference to figs. 1 to 7 of the drawings and a sewing machine for sewing hat leathers
to said previously sewn cords, constructed as herein specified and described with
reference to figures 8 to 15 of the drawings.
Fifthly. In sewing machines for attaching hat leathers to hats, a circular feed wheel
subject to spring pressure in a vertical and horizontal direction, substantially as
herein before described.
Sixthly. In sewing machines the combination of a circular feed wheel with a
hollow shaft, spring, solid shaft driving said hollow shaft through a cotter 2,
pivotted plate i held up by spring blade a, clutch lever P, spring 1, slide bar held
up by spring and cam 7 operating said slide bar, substantially as herein before
described and illustrated by the drawings.
Seventhly. The combination with a pivotted plate i, supporting a telescopic feed
wheel shaft having a collar, of an incline east on said plate, a lever k, on
vertical pivot A, for depressing said plate and drawing back the feed wheel, and
catch with spring for holding said lever, substantially as described and illustrated
by the drawings.
Eightly. In a sewing machine for sewing a cord and grease-proof band or lining
to a hat, a circular shuttle box e' carried by a bracket e fixed to the arm of the machine

page_text: frame, in such a manner as to be inside the crown of the hat substantially as herein
before described and illustrated by the drawings.
Ninthly. The combination with the circular shuttle box e' of a vertical spindle f,
with segmental spur wheel' f, a rack f³ gearing with said spur wheel, a cam f
actuating said rack, and a shuttle driver fl fixed to spindle f; substantially as
described and illustrated by the drawings.
Tenthly. The combination with a circular shuttle box e¹ and shuttle driver fl of a
shuttle and cover go constructed and shaped substantially as herein specified and
illustrated by the drawings.
Eleventhly. The combination with a feed wheel subject to vertical and horizontal
spring pressure and a circular shuttle box of a presser with presser wheel he and
cord guide 8 substantially as and for the purpose specified.
Twelfthly. The combination with a circular shuttle box c¹, pressure 15 and feed
wheel subject to vertical and horizontal spring pressure, of an inclined needle bar b
receiving reciprocating motion from a came through lever and link b¹ substantially
as described and illustrated by the drawings.
Thirteenthly. The combination of a pivotted plate i supporting a telescopic shaft 5
with feed wheel actuated by a cam 7 through a slide and clutch lever P, a
blade spring for holding up said plate i, a lever for depressing said plate and
drawing back said feed wheel, a circular shuttle box e¹, a spindle with segmental
spur wheel and shuttle driver f', a rack factuated by a cam f5 for oscillating
said spindle f, a shuttle g and spring cover g, and a needle bar and needle actuated
by a came through a lever and link substantially as herein specified and for
the purpose set forth.
Fourteenthly. A sewing machine for sewing a hat leather to a cord previously
sewn to the inner edge of a hat producing an ornamental stitch imitating hand
whipping and constructed substantially as herein specified and described with reference
to figures 8 to 15 of the drawings.
Fifteenthly. In a sewing machine in combination with a circular feed wheel on a
telescopic shaft carried by a pivotted plate so as to be subject to a vertical and
horizontal spring pressure and receiving an intermittent motion, a presser o, with a
horizontal pulley o and two conical vertical pulleys and curved guide of, sub-
stantially as herein described and for the purpose specified.
Sixteenthly. In a sewing machine a swing link p carrying a curved needle ?
operated as herein specified.
curved needle?
operated by
for lifting the
Seventeenthly. The combination with a swing link p carrying a
of a cam 78 formed on the boss of said swing link, a stitch holder
said cam, a guide p5 for guiding said stitch holder and a spring
same substantially as herein before described and illustrated by the drawings
Eighteenthly. The combination with an oscillating looper q of a shield q formed
substantially as herein specified and for the purpose set forth.
Nineteenthly. In a sewing machine the combination with a pivotted plate held up
by a spring and carrying a telescopic shaft with feed wheel subject to horizontal
pressure, of a presser o with pulleys o' 03 an oscillating swing link with a
curved needle p and cam 78, a stitch holder sliding in guide and held up by a
spring 27, an oscillating looper g with a shield q', a take-up and two shuttle
passing arms M and N with a shuttle r, all constructed and actuated substantially as
herein before specified for the purpose of sewing a hat leather to a cord previously
sewn to the "band mark" of a hat by means of an ornamental stitch imitating hand
whipping.
Dated this 8th dor of Vanal 1000
THOMAS MARSDEN COCKROFT.
ROGER FARMER.