IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY FOR SEWING BOOTS AND SHOES
Year: 1870

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to William Robert Lake, of the "International
Patent Office," Southampton Buildings, London, Consulting En-
gineer, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY FOR SEWING
BOOTS AND SHOES."-A communication from abroad by Charles,
Goodyear, junior, of the City and State of New York, United States.
of America, Manufacturer..
Sealed the 12th July 1870, and dated the 23rd May 1870.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION filed by the said William Robert Lake at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition and
Declaration, on the 23rd May 1870, pursuant to the 9th Section of
the Patent Law Amendment Act, 1852.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, WILLIAM
ROBERT LAKE, of the "International Patent Office," Southampton
Buildings, London, Consulting Engineer, send greeting.
WHEREAS I am in possession of an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
MACHINERY FOR SEWING BOOTS AND SHOES," and have petitioned Her Majesty
to grant unto me, my executors, administrators, and assigns, Her Royal

page_text: Letters Patent for the same, and have made solemn Declaration that
it has been communicated to me from ahroad by Charles Goodyear,
junior, of the City and State of New York, United States of America,
Manufacturer.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said William Robert Lake, do hereby
declare that the following Complete Specification, under my hand and
seal, fully describes and ascertains the nature of the said Invention, and
in what manner the same is to be performed, in and by the following
statement, reference being had to the accompanying Drawings forming
part of this Specification:-
This Invention relates partly to certain improvements in. that class
of a
upper
of sewing machines which are used to sew the welt and
boot
or shoe to the insole which are also adapted to sewing "turned shoes"
and may be termed "welting machines," and partly to improvements
in that class of sewing machines which serve to sew the outsole to the
welt and may be termed "sole stitching machines," and partly to im-
provements which are applicable to both the above mentioned classes of
sewing machines:
According to these improvements I use a "take-up" combined with
the movable jaw of a sole stitching machine in such a manner that the
quantity of thread given out for each stitch is regulated automatically
according to the thickness of the material or stock through which the
needle has to pass. The take-up mechanism is made adjustable, so that
the ratio of the supply of thread relatively to the variations of the
thickness of the stock can be varied, or, in other words, so that with a
given or definite amount of stock the amount of thread for each stitch
may be varied at pleasure.
A The needle used in these machines is a curved crotchet or hooked
needle which has its barb on the side towards which the stock is moved
by the action of the feed mechanism, and which is provided with a groove
or channel leading from its barb or hook diagonally across the convex
side of the needle towards the side of the point of the needle opposite to
the barb, in such a manner that the barb coverer or cast off, usually
required in sewing mechines which have a crotchet needle, can be
dispensed with, and thereby the construction of the machine materially
simplified. With this barbed needle is combined a loop controller serving.
to bear against the loop at the proper time and retain it in the proper

page_text: position to allow the needle to pass through the same without fail, thereby
preventing the dropping of loops or the formation of faulty stitches.
The awl and needle stocks are both mounted on one and the same
shaft and driven by lever segments. The needle and awl may be held
by sockets secured in the needle and awl stocks, and so constructed
that they can be readily removed and replaced by others for larger or
smaller needles or awls.
In the welting machine the boot or shoe is mounted on a last
supported by a shaft, which is hinged to a treadle in the bottom part
of the column bearing the sewing mechanism, so that it can be con-
veniently swung in any desired position, the last holder or jack being
so constructed that it can be turned in either direction, and so that the
last can be brought into an inclined or horizontal positión, as the nature
of the work may demand. The jack rests upon a cushion or spring
secured to the hinged shaft in such a manner that it is rendered
capable of yielding and accommodating itself to the action of the
feed dog upon the work and the weighted lever, so as to diminish the
jaring.
When the jack is to be used for high boots it is constructed with a
descending crook in such a manner that it is capable of receiving
the leg of a boot, without the necessity of turning or folding the
same.
The stationary or channel gauge is connected to the front of the.
machine by screws in such a manner that its construction is materially
simplified, as herein-after described.
In the sole stitching machine the lower jaw may be made movable,,
while the upper jaw remains stationary in such a manner that the length.
of the loop drawn up by the needle above the sole will be of a uniform.
length, notwithstanding any variations in the thickness of the leather, and
furthermore the construction of the machine is simplified, since if the
upper jaw moves as heretofore, the fulcrum of the feed mechanism moves.
with it and thereby the said mechanism is. rendered more complicated
than when its fulcrum remains stationary. The movable jaw (whether
it be the upper or the lower jaw) is alternately or intermittently locked
or fastened and released at the proper intervals at every stitch, while the
operation of sewing progresses and the jaw clasps or presses upon the
work. The moveable jaw is connected to a straight sliding bar which

page_text: may be released or unlocked for the purpose of inserting or removing
the work by means of a rod which extends from the locking device to the
treadle that serves to move the sliding bar, in such a manner that by
depressing this treadle, the locking device is first released, and then the
sliding bar is moved. Upon this sliding-bar is mounted the movable jaw
and also the feed dog and its actuating levers, the whole being constructed
in a very simple manner, The stationary jaw is supported by a bracket
secured to the front of the machine so as to render the construction of
the said jaw as cheap and simple as possible. The feed dog is suspended
from a fulcrum situated in a vertical line above its working edge in
such a manner that the said feed dog retains its hold of the work for the
longest possible time, and moves as nearly as possible on a level plane.
'
The stationary or channel gauge is fastened directly to the front
of the machine by screws passing through its flattened shank, so
that its construction is rendered cheap and simple. The feed lever is
mounted upon a shaft which has its bearings in brackets or lugs cast
upon the head of the machine, so that comparatively little work is required
to mount the said lever, and the same is held firmly and securely in
position. The needle shield is connected to its supporting plate by a
screw and dowel pin, so that it can be readily taken off whenever it may
be desirable for the purpose of renewing or exchanging the same. The
head of the machine is so constructed that the lugs or jaws which sup-
port the needle and awl stocks, and also the brackets for supporting the
feed bar, are formed upon the casting in one piece, the cost of the
machine is thus reduced and its durability is increased. The roll of
the "take-up" is heated by hot air conducted to it from the interior of
the stand or column, and thereby the thread passing over the said roll
is kept from adhering to it. The needle and also the awl may be con-
structed with a broad flat shank so that the same can be conveniently
attached to their oscillating stocks by screws passing through them, and
in this case the needle shield and also all other expensive fastenings can
be dispensed with. The cast off or barb shield (when such device is used)
is made automatically adjustable to the varying thickness of the leather by
fitting it into a slot in the awl stock in which it can slide back and forth,
being subjected to the action of a spring in such a manner that when
its point strikes the leather the said barb shield is pushed in, and when
the awl stock recedes the said barb shield is again thrown out by the
spring.

page_text: Figure 1 is a side view of the said sole-stitching machine, in which
the upper jaw is movable; Figure 2 is a similar view of the head of the
said machine detached from the supporting column, and drawn to a
larger scale than the previous Figure; Figure 3 is a front view of the
same; Figure 4 is a sectional side view of the aforesaid welting machine
shewing the application of the improved lastholder or sewing jack;
Figure 5 is a similar view of the head detached from the supporting
column, and drawn to a larger scale than the previous Figure; Figure 6
is a front view of the same. The remaining Figures are details which
will be referred to as the description progresses. Like letters indicate
corresponding parts throughout the Drawings.
A designates a column which supports the head B forming the
bearings for the principal working parts of the sewing mechanism. This
mechanism consists principally of an oscillating awl stock a and oscil-
lating needle stock b, to which the required motion is imparted by lever
Segments c, d, provided with cogs which gear in corresponding cogs in
the awl and needle stocks. The said needle stock and awl stock may be
mounted on separate pivots, and in this case the needle stock has an
outwardly swinging motion in addition to its oscillating motion; but I
secure, by preference, particularly in the welting or "turn" machine,
both the needle and awl stocks on one and the same shaft e (sec
Figure 7), whereby the construction of the machine is materially
simplified, it being found that by imparting to the needle stock an
outwardly swinging motion the loop drawn out by the needle becomes
unnecessarily long. The needle and awl are secured in their respective
stocks by means of clamping sockets f (see Figure 8), which are so
constructed that they can be readily removed and replaced by others for
coarser or finer needles and awls. These movable clamping sockets
may however be dispensed with by making the shanks of all the needles
and awls of uniform size. The needle is of that class known as crotchet
or hooked needles, and it is curved to conform to the motion of the needle
stock. The barb g of my needle is situated on that side towards which
the stock is moved by the action of the feed mechanism, and from this
barb extends a groove (see Figures 9, 10, and 11) diagonally across the
convex side of the needle towards its point. By this construction I am

page_text: enabled to dispens with the barb coverer or cast off, which is objectionable
not only on account of the additional work required to apply it to the
sewing mechanism, but also on account of its liability to pierce and
cut the thread when the loop is carried down into the stock after being
drawn up by the needle, and because the room it takes up renders it
liable to interfere with the functions of the feed dog.
The action of my needle will be readily understood by referring to
Figures 9, 10, and 11. When the needle rises it draws out the loop, as
shown in Figure 9; then the feed takes place, and the loop is brought
into the position shown in Figure 10, its slipping over the point of the
ncedle being prevented by the groove h; then the needle descends, and
on rising again with a new loop the old loop has assumed the position
shown in Figure 11, the open portion of said loop being on the barb side
of the needle, so that the barb cannot catch in the said loop, while the
needle readily draws the new loop through the old one. When the
needle after having drawn out a loop begins to descend the loop is liable
to assume such a position that the needle instead of passing down
through it passes through the thread or outside the loop, and the loop
is dropped. This difficulty I have overcome by the application of the
loop controller i (see Figures 3, 12, and 13). This loop controller can
be constructed in various ways, and it consists essentially of a finger
which is actuated by a cam or other equivalent means, and which is
brought to bear against the loop close to the point of the needle, and
caused to retain the said loop in such a position that the needle cannot
fail to pass down through it.
In the sole-stitching machine shown in Figures 1, 2, and 3, the work
or stock while being secured is clamped between the stationary jaw j and
the movable jaw k. The stationary jaw j is secured to the front of the
machine by means of a simple bracket (see Figure 15), while the
movable jaw k is attached to a sliding bar m, which is connected by a
link n with a spring p and also with one end of a lever the opposite end
of which is connected by means of a rod with a treadles mounted in the
lower part of the column A. By the action of the spring p the slide bar
is drawn down, and the movable jaw closes down upon the stock
supported by the stationary jaw, and by depressing the treadle & the
slide bar is forced up against the action of its spring and the work is
released. During the operation of sewing the slide bar together with

page_text: "
the movable jaw is alternately locked and released by a lever u, which
receives the required motion by the combined action of a cam t* and a
spring . As the roller stud of this lever is depressed the slide bar is
released, and the movable jaw is free to accommodate itself to any
change taking place in the thickness of the work; but before the awl
begins to act the slide bar is locked and retained in the locking position
until the stitch is completed. Upon the sliding bar is mounted not only
the movable jaw and the feed dog v¹, but also the actuating levers of the
feeding mechanism. The lever u is subjected to the action of a dog t,
which is connected by a rod v with the treadles; and the rod r, which
serves to lift the slide bar, is provided with a slot in its bottom, so that
by depressing the treadle the dog by pressing against the bottom edge of
the lever will release the slide bar before the same is acted upon by the
rod r.
The slide bar is connected by a lever w and rod x (see Figure 1)
with a tappet y that acts on the take-up or thread controller z. This
take-up consists of a three-armed lever, which has its fulcrum on a
pivot a', and is provided in the ends of two of its arms with rollers b¹, c¹,
while its third arm bears against the tappet y, being held in contact
therewith by a spring d' acting on the roller c. The roller 6' forms the
guide for the thread which is taken from the spool e¹, and passes through
under the said roller 6', as shewn in Figure 1. If the thickness of the
stock between the two jaws j, k, of the stitching machine increases the
tappet y is depressed, and the roller b¹ rises so as to give out more
thread; and if the thickness of the stock between the jaws j, k, decreases
the tappet y rises, and the roller b¹ descends so as to decrease the
quantity of thread given out. The tappet y is adjustable by a screw ƒ”¹,
and by moving the said tappet in or out the ratio of the decrease or
increase produced by the take-up of the quantity of thread given out by
the machine for each stitch to any given or definite variation in the
thickness of the stock is changed, that is to say, if the tappet is moved
in the change taking place in the quantity of thread given out by the
machine is increased for a certain variation in the thickness of the stock,
and vice versa. In some instances it may be desirable to make the upper
jawj stationary and the lower jaw k movable, as shown in Figure 14.
In this case the lower jaw is formed on the end of a lever k*, which has
its fulcrum on a pivot ¹* secured in the slide bar m. The mechanism.
for locking and releasing the slide bar remains substantially the same as
above described. When the lower jaw is movable the automatic take-up

page_text: can be dispensed with, since the quantity of thread drawn out by the
needle over the top surface of the sole or stock remains uniform, and such
provision is not required to vary the length of the loops to correspond to
the variations in the thickness of the stock.
r
In the welting machines the boots or shoes are mounted on a last g
(see Figure 4), which is supported by a jack G. This jack revolves
freely on the upper end of a shaft and rests upon an elastic cushion
or spring, so that the work is capable of yielding and accom-
modating itself to a certain extent to the sudden action of the feed
dog upon the work. Said jack consists of a last supporting lever j',
which has its fulcrum on a pivot k, and can be set to any desired incli-
nation by means of a serrated bar and spring catch m¹. A handle n¹
serves to control the position of the jack, through the crank lever n* and
the slotted projection n¹* attached to the frame of the jack. The shaft /¹
is connected by a joint o¹ to a treadle H, which is subjected to the action
of a weight or spring, so that the jack is continually forced upward, and
so that it can be depressed by stepping upon the treadle. The joint o¹
is so constructed as to admit of a rocking motion forward and backward
and from side to side in any direction, but not to allow the upright shaft
to turn round, as such a motion would be fatal to the proper action of
this mechanism. In order that the jack may be enclined more or less
with reference to the sewing mechanism, there is a joint o² in the
upright shaft just below the sping ", which admits of such adjustment;
when the joint is adjusted at the proper angle to suit the work it is
secured by the set screw o³, and in this way the jack will present the
shoe to the sewing mechanism at the same angle at all points, whereas
if the shaft is permitted to revolve at the joint o' this method of
adjustment would not operate in a satisfactory manner. The upper end
of the shaft is provided with a loose ring p², which connects by a
chain q with the column A. By this arrangement the jack can be
freely moved in either direction, and the work can be properly presented
to the action of the sewing mechanism with ease and facility. When
the jack is to be used for boots I. construct it as shown in Figure 16. In
this case it is provided with a crook ¹ deep enough to admit the boot'
leg without turning the same up. An additional serrated bar and spring
catch for fastening the last to the last holder are in this case applied to
the lowest part of the crook ¹. The stationary channel gauge, 1 is
connected to the front of the machine by screws, as shown in Figures 5.

page_text: and 6, and thereby the construction of this part is very much simplified.
The feed dog is suspended from a pivot situated in a vertical line
above its working face, so that in feeding the said working face is
moved very nearly upon a level or horizontal plane.
The head or frame of the machine is so constructed that the parts
which support the bearings or journals of the awl and needle stocks may
be cast upon it in one piece, also the studs or lugs a² (see Figures 5.
and 6) which support the lever 62 that imparts the lateral motion to the
feed dog. One of the parts above named is cast with a flat place on
the front, wherein a shallow perpendicular groove is made to receive
the channel gauge t, which is secured by simple screws, as above
mentioned. The needle is supported while in the operation of sewing by
the socket or shield e², represented in Figures 17 and 18. This shield is
so arranged that it will support the needle close to the point at the
time of drawing out the loop. As this shield is liable to wear and
requires to be more or less frequently renewed or exchanged, it is fastened
to the plate which supports it by a screw and dowel pin (see Figure 18).
In order to prevent the adhesion of the waxed thread to the roll on the
take-up," this roll is heated by means of hot air conducted through a
pipe a leading from the inside of the stand or column (see Figure 4),
so that the same gas jet or lamp, which serves to heat the other portion.
of the mechanism, will heat the said roll. In order to make the needle
and awl in such a manner that they will not spring or get out of place.
and to strengthen them, I sometimes make them as represented in
Figures 19 and 20, with a broad flat shank, and when they are made in
this manner I am enabled to dispense with the needle shield, and also if
desired with the caps, which serve to clamp the needle and awl in their
respective sockets, as the needle and awl when made in this manner.
may be fastened with screws passing through them into their respective
stocks. It is obvious that in this case the shanks may be made of
any desired thickness or shape.
When it is desired to make the barb shield or cast-off automatically
adjustable to the varying thickness of the leather, I make it to slide in a
slot in the awl stock as represented in Figure 20, where e³ represents the
barb shield and f² a coiled spring, which throws the said barb shield out of
its sheath or slot, and when the point of the barb shield strikes the leather'
the spring allows the same to recede to the extent of the thickness of the
leather.

page_text: I have herein-before stated that by using needles and awls with a
broad flat shank I am enabled to dispense with the caps or clamps for
confining them in their respective sockets, I would also mention that by
making the shanks with an off-set from the needle and awl so as to
imbed the shanks in slots or groovs in their respective sockets, and yet 5
allow the needle and awl to work in line with each other, I am enabled
to get a much greater range of motion in the awl and needle stocks, as
where the clamps are used the range of motion is much restricted by the
clamps butting against each other, which is a cause of great incon-
venience in many respects. It is obvious that when the needles and 1
awls are made and mounted so that their shanks are let in flush with
the inner faces of their respective stocks they will pass each other
without interference.
Having thus fully described the said improvements, as communicated
to me by my foreign correspondent, and shewn how the same may be 1
conveniently and advantageously carried into practice, I claim,-
First. The means substantially as herein described for automatically
regulating the length of the loop according to the varying thickness of
the stock without varying the stroke of the needle.
Second. The means substantially as described for varying the ratio of 2
the supply of thread to the variations in the thickness of the stock, so
that with a given or definite amount of variation in the thickness of the
stock the amount of thread for each stitch may be varied at pleasure.
Third. A. curved crotchet or hooked needle having its barb on the side
towards which the work is moved by the action of the feed mechanism, 2
and having a groove or channel leading from the barb or hook diagonally
over the convex side of the needle towards the side of the point opposite
to the barb substantially as described.
Fourth. In combination with a needle such as is herein described a
loop controller substantially as described, serving to push the loop at the 3
proper time into a convenient position and retain it there, so as to allow
the needle to pass through the same without fail, thereby preventing the`
dropping of the loops.
Fifth. Mounting the awl stock and needle stock upon one and the
same axis or shaft when the said awl stock and needle stock are actuated 3
by lever segments, substantially as herein set forth.
Sixth. The combination with sewing mechanism substantially as

page_text: herein described of the jack or support for the shoe mounted and
constructed substantially in the manner specified.
Seventh. In connection with the jack and sewing mechanism. herein
described, the arrangement of an elastic cushion. or spring, and the
joint of interposed between the jack and bottom lever, upon which the
shaft supporting said jack is mounteḍ.
Eighth. In combination with the jack and sewing mechanism sub-.
stantially as herein described, the arrangement of a crook in the jack,
to enable the same to receive the leg of the boot without the necessity of.
turning and folding..
Ninth. In a machine for stitching soles to the welts of boots and shoes,,
the arrangement of a stationary upper jaw, the lower jaw being made
movable to allow of being adjusted to varying thicknesses of soles.
Tenth. A sewing machine for stitching soles to welts so constructed,
that the jaw or jaws shall be alternately or intermittently locked or
fastened and released at the proper intervals at every stitch, during the.
operation of sewing and while clasping and pressing upon the work.
Eleventh. The herein described device or equivalent contrivance for
releasing or unlocking the sliding bar which supports the movable jaw.
when it is desired to move the jaw to insert or remove the work.
Twefth. The herein described means for supporting the stationary jaw
in machines for stitching the out sole to the welt, consisting of a simple.
bracket secured to the front of the machine substantially as set forth.
Thirteenth. The construction of the stitching machine having the
feed dog and the movable jaw mounted upon a straight perpendicular
slide substantially as described.
Fourteenth. The means substantially as herein shown and described
for clamping or holding the needle and awl in their respective sockets by
inserting the said sockets into the needle and awl stocks, so that they
can be readily removed and interchanged for needles or awls of different
'sizes.
Fifteenth. The herein described manner of mounting and constructing
the feed dog by suspending the same from a pivot situated in a vertical
line above its working edge and operating it by a simple lever.
Sixteenth. The herein described manner of constructing and mounting
the stationary or channel gauge in machines for sewing welts or turns
by fastening it directly to the front of the machine as set forth.

page_text: Seventeenth. The herein described manner of constructing and
mounting the lever for imparting the lateral motion to the feed dog by
mounting the same upon a shaft supported by brackets cast upon the
head of the machine.
'
Eighteenth. The manner of constructing the needle shield so that
it may be readily renewed or exchanged, substantially as shown and
described.
:
Nineteenth. So constructing the head of the machine that the parts
which support the bearings for the needle and awl stock, and also the
lugs for supporting the feed bar are formed upon the casting in one
piece, substantially as described.
Twentieth. The arrangement of a channel to conduct hot air from
the interior to the stand or column to the roll of the "take-up," sub-
stantially as set forth.
Twenty-first. In combination with the oscillating awl or needle stocks
an awl or needle having a broad flat shank, substantially as described.
Twenty-second. The barb shield or cast-off constructed substantially
as described so that it moves in the arc of a circle and is capable of
adjusting itself automatically to the varying thickness of the stock.
Twenty-third. The needle and awl having their respective shanks
off-set, substantially as described, so that while the needle and awl will
work in line with each other the shanks will pass or overlap cach other
without interference.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Robert Lake, have
hereunto set my hand and scal, this Twenty-third day of May, in
the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy.
WILLIAM ROBERT LAKE. (L.S.)
Witness,
D. L. WAGNER,
Clerk to Messrs. Haseltine, Lake, & Co.,
Southampton Buildings,
London.

page_text: THE BLAKE AND GOODYEAR BOOT AND SHOE MACHINERY COMPANY'S
DISCLAIMER AND MEMORANDUM OF ALTERATION.
[LAKE'S PATENT.]
Filed 15th January 1880.
In the Matter of Letters Patent granted to WILLIAM ROBERT LAKE, of the
"International Patent Office," Southampton Buildings, London, Con-
sulting Engineer, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY
FOR SEWING BOOTS AND SHOES." A communication from abroad by
Charles Goodyear, junior, of the City and State of New York, United
States of America, Manufacturer, dated the 23rd May, 1870, No. 1491,
which Letters Patent and all right, title, and interest therein are now
vested in the Blake and Goodyear Boot and Shoe Machinery Company
(Limited), of No. 1, Worship Street, Finsbury, in the County of
Middlesex.
DISCLAIMER AND MEMORANDUM OF ALTERATION proposed to be
entered by the said Company.
•
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters Patent
bearing date the 23rd day of May, in the year of our Lord One thousand eight
hundred and seventy, in the thirty third year of Her reign, did, for Herself,
Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto the said William Robert Lake, his
executors, administrators, and assigns, the sole privilege of making, using, exercising,
and vending within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel
Islands, and Isle of Man, the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY
FOR SEWING BOOTS AND SHOES," for and during the term of fourteen years thence
next ensuing: And whereas a Complete Specification of the said Invention was
filed with the application for the same in the Great Seal Patent Office:
And whereas by assignment dated the Twentieth day of January, One thousand
eight hundred and seventy one, and by various mesne assignments, and ultimately
by an Indenture dated the Thirty first day of August, One thousand eight

page_text: hundred and seventy-six, the said Letters Patent, and all right, title, and interest
in and to the same became vested in the said Blake and Goodyear Boot and Shoe
Machinery Company (Limited):
And whereas we have been advised and have reason to believe that certain
portions of the Invention described and claimed in the said Specification were
not new in respect of the public knowledge and use thereof at the date of the
application for the said Letters Patent:
NOW KNOW YE, therefore, that we, the said Blake and Goodyear Boot and
Shoe Machinery Company, by and with the consent of Her Majesty's Attorney
General, do alter and amend the said Specification as follows, that is to say:-
Referring to the Queen's Printers' copy of the said Specification, on page 10 of the
same, we strike out the whole of the matter contained in the 17th, 18th, and 19th
lines, and constituting the first claiming clause. On page 11 we strike out the
whole of the matter in the 7th, 8th, 9th, and 10th lines constituting the eighth
claiming clause. We also strike out of the 11th line the word "Ninth," and
substitute therefor the word "Seventh," and in the 12th line, after the word
arrangement, we insert the words "as shewn in Figure 14," and after the word
jaw we insert the word "with," and we strike out the word "being," and in the
13th line, after the word. "movable," we insert "on an axis not concentric with
that of the awl or needle," and after the word "soles" in the same line we insert
the words substantially as set forth. We strike out the whole of the matter in
the 14th, 15th, 16th, and 17th lines constituting the 10th claiming clause, and we
strike out the whole of the matter in the 21st, 22nd, and 23rd lines, constituting
the twelfth claiming clause. We also strike out the whole of the matter coin-
mencing with the word "fourteenth" in the 27th line to the end of the 37th line,
constituting the 14th, 15th, and 16th claiming clauses. And on the 12th page wo
strike out the whole of the matter from the word "Seventeenth," commencing the
1st line to the end of the 23rd line, constituting the 17th, 18th, 19th, 20th, 21st,
22nd, and 23rd claiming clauses. And we renumber the remainder of the claiming
clauses in accordance with the above alterations:
And in order that the effect of the said Disclaimer and Memorandum of Alteration
may be fully understood we annex a copy of the Specification as it will appear when
such Disclaimer and Memorandum of Alteration have been made, omitting the
introductory and concluding clauses thereof:-
" NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said William Robert Lake, do hereby declare.
"that the following Complete Specification, under my hand and seal, fully describes
" and ascertains the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same
"is to be performed, in and by the following statement, reference being had to
the accompanying Drawings forming part of this Specification :-
==
<< <
"This Invention relates partly to certain improvements in that class of sewing
"machines which are used to sew the welt and upper of a boot or shoe to the
insole, which are also adapted to sewing turned shoes,' and may be termed
welting machines,' and partly to improvements in that class of sewing machines
"which serve to sew the outsole to the welt, and may be termed sole stitching
machines,' and partly to improvements which are applicable to both the above
" mentioned classes of sewing machines.
"
"
"
'
According to these improvements I use a take-up,' combined with the movable
jaw of a sole stitching machine, in such a manner that the quantity of thread
given out for each stitch is regulated automatically, according to the thickness of
"the material or stock through which the needle has to pass. The take-up
"mechanism is made adjustable so that the ratio of the supply of thread relatively
" to the variations of the thickness of the stock can be varied; or, in other words,
so that with a given or definite amount of stock the amount of thread for each
"stitch may be varied at pleasure.
«
"The needle used in these machines is a curved crochet or hooked needle, which
" has its barb on the side, towards which the stock is moved by the action of the

page_text: "
" feed mechanism, and which is provided with a groove or channel leading from its
"barb or hook diagonally across the convex side of the needle towards the side of
"the point of the needle opposite to the barb in such a manner that the barb coverer
or cast off usually required in sewing machines which have a crochet needle can
"be dispensed with, and thereby the construction of the machine materially
simplified. With this barbed needle is combined a loop controller, serving to
bear against the loop at the proper time, and retain it in the proper position to
"allow the needle to pass through the same without fail, thereby preventing the
dropping of loops or the formation of faulty stitches. The awl and needle stocks
are both mounted on one and the same shaft, and driven by lever segments. The
"needle and awl may be held by sockets secured in the needle and awl stocks, and
so constructed that they can be readily removed and replaced by others for larger
<< or smaller needles or awls,
<
<
<<
"
In the welting machine the boot or shoe is mounted on a last supported by a
shaft, which is hinged to a treadle in the bottom part of the column bearing the
sewing mechanism, so that it can be conveniently swung in any desired position;
"the last holder or jack being so constructed that it can be turned in either
"direction, and so that the last can be brought into an inclined or horizontal
"position as the nature of the work may demand. The jack rests upon a cushion
or spring secured to the hinged shaft in such a manner that it is rendered capable
"of yielding and accomodating itself to the action of the feed dog upon the work
"and the weighted lever, so as to diminish the jarring.
"When the jack is to be used for high boots it is constructed with a descending
"crook in such a manner that it is capable of receiving the leg of a boot without
"the necessity of turning or folding the same.
"
$6
"E
"
"
"
"The stationary or channel gauge is connected to the front of the machine by
screws in such a manner that its construction is materially simplified, as herein-
after described.
"In the sole stitching machine the lower jaw may be made movable while the
upper jaw remains stationary in such a manner that the length of the loop drawn
up by the needle above the sole will be of a uniform length, notwithstanding any
"variations in the thickness of the leather; and furthermore, the construction of
"the machine is simplified, since if the upper jaw moves as heretofore the fulcrum
" of the feed mechanism moves with it, and thereby the said mechanism is rendered
"more complicated than when its fulcrum remains stationary. The movable jaw
(whether it be the upper or the lower jaw) is alternately or intermittently lockeḍ
or fastened and released at the proper intervals at every stitch while the opera-
"tion of sewing progresses and the jaw clasps or presses upon the work. The
"movable jaw is connected to a straight sliding bar, which may be released or
"unlocked for the purpose of inserting or removing the work by means of a rod
"which extends from the locking device to the treadle, that serves to move the
sliding bar in such a manner that by depressing this treadle the locking device
" is first released and then the sliding bar is moved. Upon this sliding bar is
"mounted the movable jaw and also the feed dog and its actuating levers, the
"whole being constructed in a very simple manner. The stationary jaw is
supported by a bracket secured to the front of the machine, so as to render the
"construction of the said jaw as cheap and simple as possible. The feed dog is
suspended from a fulcrum situated in a vertical line above its working edge in
"such a manner that the said feed dog retains its hold of the work for the longest.
"possible time and moves as nearly as possible on a level plane.
"
"
tt
40
* The stationary or channel gauge is fastened directly to the front of the machine
by screws passing through its flattened shank, so that its construction is rendered
"cheap and simple. The feed lever is mounted upon a shaft which has its bearings
" in brackets or lugs cast upon the head of the machine, so that comparatively
"little work is required to mount the said lever, and the same is held firmly and
securely in position. The needle shield is connected to its supporting plate by a
"screw and dowel pin, so that it can be readily taken off whenever it may be desirable
"

page_text: for the purpose of renewing or exchanging the same.
The head of the machine
" is so constructed that the lugs or jaws which support the needle and awl stocks,
"and also the brackets for supporting the feed bar, are formed upon the casting in
«
one piece; the cost of the macbine is thus reduced, and its durability is increased:
"The roll of the 'take-up' is heated by hot air conducted to it from the interior
"of the stand or coluinn, and thereby the thread passing over the said roll is kept
from adhering to it. The needle and also the awl may be constructed with a
"broad flat shank, so that the same can be conveniently attached to their oscillating
"stocks by screws passing through them, and in this case the needle shield and also
"all other expensive fastenings can be dispensed with. The cast off or barb shield
(when such device is used) is made automatically adjustable to the varying
"thickness of the leather by fitting it into a slot in the awl stock, in which it can
." slide back and forth, being subjected to the action of a spring in such a manner
that when its point strikes the leather the said barb shield pushed in, and
when the awl stock recedes the said barb shield is again thrown out by the
"spring.
"
"
"
"
"
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.
Figure 1 is a side view of the said sole-stitching machine, in which the upper jaw
" is movable; Figure 2 is a similar view of the head of the said machine detached
" from the supporting column, and drawn to a larger scale than the previous Figure;
Figure 3 is a front view of the same; Figure 4 is a sectional side view of the
" aforesaid welting machine, showing the application of the improved last holder
or sewing jack; Figure 5 is a similar view of the head detached from the
"supporting column, and drawn to a larger scale than the previous Figure; Figure 6
"is a front view of the same. The remaining Figures are details which will be
"referred to as the description progresses. Like letters indicate corresponding parts
throughout the Drawings.
$6
"
's
"
*
86
"A designates a column which supports the head B forming the bearings for the
"principal working parts of the sewing mechanism. This mechanism consists
principally of an oscillating awl stock a and oscillating needle stock b, to which
"the required motion is imparted by lever segments c, d, provided with cogs
"which gear in corresponding cogs in the awl and needle stocks. The said needle
"stock and awl stock may be mounted on separate pivots, and in this case the
"needle stock has an outwardly swinging motion in addition to its oscillating
"motion; but I secure by preference, particularly in the welting or turn
"machine, both the needle and awl stocks on one and the same shaft e (see
Figure 7), whereby the construction of the machine is materially simplified, it
being found that by imparting to the needle stock an outwardly swinging motion,
"the loop drawn out by the needle becomes unnecessarily long. The needle and
"awl are secured in their respective stocks by means of clamping sockets f (see
Figure 8), which are so constructed that they can be readily removed and
replaced by others for coarser or finer needles and awls. These movable
"clamping sockets may however be dispensed with by making the shanks of all
"the needles and awls of uniform size. The needle is of that class known as
"crochet or hooked needles, and it is curved to conform to the motion of the
"needle stock. The barb g of my needle is situated on that side towards which
"the stock is moved by the action of the feed mechanism, and from this barb
"extends a groove h (see Figures 9, 10, and 11), diagonally across the convex side
"of the needle towards its point. By this construction I am enabled to dispense
"with the barb coverer or cast off which is objectionable, not only on account of
"the additional work required to apply it to the sewing mechanism, but also on
account of its liability to pierce and cut the thread when the loop is carried down
"into the stock after being drawn up by the needle, and because the room it
"takes up renders it liable to interfere with the functions of the feed dog.
"
'"
.
L
"The action of my needle will be readily understood by referring to Figures 9,
10, and 11. When the needle rises it draws out the loop as shown in Figure 9,.

page_text: 26
then the feed takes place and the loop is brought into the position shewn in
Figure 10, its slipping over the point of the needle being prevented by the
<< groove h; then the needle descends, and on rising again with a new loop the old
loop has assumed the position shown in Figure 11, the open portion of said loop
being on the barb side of the needle, so that the barb cannot catch in the said
"loop while the needle readily draws the new loop through the old one. When
t
"
"the needle after having drawn out a loop begins to descend, the loop is liable to
assume such a position that the needle instead of passing down through it passes
through the thread or outside the loop and the loop is dropped. This difficulty
"I have overcome by the application of the loop controller (see Figures 3, 12,
"and 13). This loop controller can be constructed in various ways, and it consists
essentially of a finger which is actuated by a cam or other equivalent means,
"and which is brought to bear against the loop close to the point of the needle,
" and caused to retain the said loop in such a position that the needle cannot fail
"to pass down through it.
<
14
"
"
"
"
8
"In the sole-stitching machine shown in Figures 1, 2, and 3, the work or stock
"while being secured is clamped between the stationary jaw j and the movable
jaw k. The stationary jaw j is secured to the front of the machine by means of
a simple bracket (see Figure 15), while the movable jaw k is attached to a
sliding bar m, which is connected by a link n with a spring p, and also with one
"end of a lever q, the opposite end of which is connected by means of a rod r
"with a treadle s mounted in the lower part of the column A. By the action of
"the spring p the slide bar is drawn down, and the movable jaw closes down upon
the stock supported by the stationary jaw, and by depressing the treadle s the
"slide bar is forced up against the action of its spring, and the work is released.
During the operation of sewing the slide bar together with the movable jaw is
"alternately locked and released by a lever u, which receives the required notion
"by the combined action of a cam t* and a spring u*. As the roller stud of this
"lever is depressed the slide bar is released, and the movable jaw is free to
"accomodate itself to any change taking place in the thickness of the work; but
"before the awl begins to act the slide bar is locked and retained in the locking
position until the stitch is completed. Upon the sliding bar is mounted not only
"the movable jaw and the feed dog v¹, but also the actuating levers of the feeding
"mechanism. The lever u is subjected to the action of a dog t, which is connected
by a rod v with the treadle 8, and the rod r, which serves to lift the slide bar, is
provided with a slot in its bottom, so that by depressing the treadle the dog by
pressing against the bottom edge of the lever will release the slide bar before the
same is acted upon by the rod r. The slide bar is connected by a lever wand
"rodx (see Figure 1) with a tappet y that acts on the take-up or thread con-
"troller z.
This take-up consists of a three-armed lever, which has its fulcrum on
a pivot a', and is provided in the ends of two of its arms with rollers 6¹, c¹, while
"its third arm bears against the tappet y, being held in contact therewith by a
spring d¹ acting on the roller c'. The roller b¹ forms the guide for the thread
"which is taken from the spool e¹, and passes through under the said roller b³,
"shewn in Figure 1. If the thickness of the stock between the two jaws j, k, of
"the stitching machine increases the tappet y is depressed, and the roller b' rises
so as to give out more thread, and if the thickness of the stock between the
jaws j, k, decreases the tappet y rises, and the roller b¹ descends, so as to decrease
the quantity of thread given out. The tappet y is adjustable by a screw f¹, and
by moving the said tappet in or out the ratio of the decrease or increase pro-
"duced by the take-up of the quantity of thread given out by the machine for each
" stitch to any given or definite variation in the thickness of the stock is changed,
"that is to say, if the tappet is moved in the change taking place in the quantity
." of thread given out by the machine is increased for a certain variation in the
" thickness of the stock, and vice-versa. In some instances it may be desirable to
"make the upper jaw j stationary, and the lower jaw k moveable, as shown in
Figure 14. In this case the lower jaw is formed on the end of a lever k*, which
"
"
"
"
"
"
."
as

page_text: "
" has its fulcrum on a pivot 1* secured in the slide bar m. The mechanism for
locking and releasing the slide bar remains substantially the same as above
"described. When the lower jaw is moveable the automatic take-up can be dis-
pensed with, since the quantity of thread drawn out by the needle over the top
"surface of the sole or stock remains uniform, and such provision is not required
to vary the length of the loops to correspond to the variations in the thickness
" of the stock.
"
"
"
"
.
"
"
.«
«
"In the welting machines the boots or shoes are mounted on a last g¹ (see
Figure 4), which is supported by a jack G. This jack revolves freely on the
upper end of a shaft h', and rests upon an elastic cushion or spring i¹ so that the
"work is capable of yielding and accomodating itself to a certain extent to
"the sudden action of the feed dog upon the work. Said jack consists of a last
supporting lever j¹, which has its fulcrum on a pivot k, and can be set to any
"desired inclination by means of a serrated bar and spring catch m'. A handle n¹
"serves to control the position of the jack through the crank lever n* and the
"slotted projection n¹* attached to the frame of the jack. The shaft h' is connected
by a joint o' to a treadle H, which is subjected to the action of a weight or spring,
"so that the jack is continually forced upward, and so that it can be depressed by
stepping upon the treadle. The joint o¹ is so constructed as to admit of a rocking
motion forward and backward and from side to side in any direction, but not to
"allow the upright shaft to turn round, as such a motion would be fatal to the
proper action of this mechanism. In order that the jack may be inclined more
or less with reference to the sewing mechanism there is a joint o² in the upright
"shaft just below the spring i¹, which admits of such adjustment. When the joint
" is adjusted at the proper angle to suit the work it is secured by the set screw o³,
" and in this way the jack will present the shoe to the sewing mechanism at the
same angle at all points, whereas if the shaft is permitted to revolve at the joint o'
"this method of adjustment would not operate in a satisfactory manner.
upper end of the shaft h¹ is provided with a loose ring p', which connects by a
"chain q¹ with the column A. By this arrangement the jack can be freely moved
" in either direction, and the work can be properly presented to the action of the
" sewing mechanism with ease and facility. When the jack is to be used for boots
"I construct it as shown in Figure 16. In this case it is provided with a crook 7+1
deep enough to admit the boot leg without turning the same up. An additional
" serrated bar and spring catch for fastening the last to the last holder are in this
"case applied to the lowest part of the crook r¹. The stationary channel gauge t¹
" is connected to the front of the machine by screws, as shown in Figures 5 and 6,
" and thereby the construction of this part is very much simplified. The feed dog v
" is suspended from a pivot situated in a vertical line above its working face, so
"that in feeding the said working face is moved very nearly upon a level or
"horizontal plane.
16
"
"
«
"
"
The
"The head or frame of the machine is so constructed that the parts which sup-
port the bearings or journals of the awl and needle stocks may be cast upon it in
one piece, also the studs or lugs a² (see Figures 5 and 6) which support the lever ba
"that imparts the lateral motion to the feed dog. One of the parts above named
" is cast with a flat place on the front, wherein a shallow perpendicular groove is
"made to receive the channel gauge t¹, which is secured by simple screws, as above
" mentioned. The needle is supported while in the operation of sewing by the
socket or shield e² represented in Figures 17 and 18. This shield is so arranged
"that it will support the needle close to the point at the time of drawing out the
loop. As this shield is liable to wear, and requires to be more or less frequently
" renewed or exchanged it is fastened to the plate which supports it by a screw
"and dowel pin (see Figure 18). In order to prevent the adhesion of the waxed
"thread to the roll on the take-up,' this roll is heated by means of hot air con-
"ducted through a pipe de leading from the inside of the stand or column (see
Figure 4), so that the same gas jet or lamp which serves to heat the other
portion of the mechanism wil heat the said roll. In order to make the needle
"
"

page_text: " and awl in such a manner that they will not spring or get out of place, and to
"strengthen them, I sometimes make them as represented in Figures 19 and 20,
"with a broad flat shank, and when they are made in this manner I am enabled
"to dispense with the needle shield, and also, if desired, with the caps which
serve to clamp the needle and awl in their respective sockets, as the needle and
"awl when made in this manner may be fastened with screws passing through
"them into their respective stocks. It is obvious that in this case the shanks may
"be made of any desired thickness or shape.
<E
"When it is desired to make the barb shield or cast-off automatically adjustable
"to the varying thickness of the leather I make it to slide in a slot in the awl.
"stock as represented in Figure 20, where e² represents the barb shield, and f' a
"coiled spring, which throws the said barb shield out of its sheath or slot, and
"when the point of the barb shield strikes the leather the spring allows the same
"to recede to the extent of the thickness of the leather.
[6
I have hereinbefore stated that by using needles and awls with a broad flat
"shank I am enabled to dispense with the caps or clamps for confining them in
"their respective sockets. I would also mention that by making the shanks
"with an off-set from the needle and awl so as to imbed the shanks in slots or
grooves in their respective sockets, and yet allow the needle and awl to work in
"line with each other, I am enabled to get a much greater range of motion in the
"awl-and needle stocks, as where the clamps are used the range of motion is much
"restricted by the clamps butting against each other, which, is a cause of great
inconvenience in many respects. It is obvious that when the needles and awls
are made and mounted so that their shanks are let in flush with the inner faces
"of their respective stocks, they will pass each other without interference.
Having thus fully described the said improvements, as communicated to me by
my foreign correspondent, and shown how the same may be conveniently and
advantageously carried into practice, I claim,-
"
"
«
First. The means, substantially as described, for varying the ratio of the supply
"of thread to the variations in the thickness of the stock, so that with a given or
" definite amount of variation in the thickness of the stock the amount of thread
"for each stitch may be varied at pleasure.
«
"Second. A curved crochet or hooked needle having its barb on the side
" towards which the work is moved by the action of the feed mechanism, and
having a groove or channel leading from the barb or hook diagonally over the
convex side of the needle towards the side of the point opposite to the barb, sub-
stantially as described.
$$
"
"
"Third. In combination with a needle, such as is herein described, a loop con-
"troller, substantially as described, serving to push the loop at the proper time
"into a convenient position and retain it there, so as to allow the needle to pass
through the same without fail, thereby preventing the dropping of the loops.
"Fourth. Mounting the awl stock and needle stock upon one and the same axis
or shaft when the said awl stock and needle stock are actuated by lever segments,
substantially as herein set forth.
"
46
"Fifth. The combination with sewing mechanism, substantially as herein
"described, of the jack or support for the shoe, mounted and constructed substan-
tially in the manner specified.
"Sixth. In connection with the jack and sewing mechanism herein described, the
arrangement of an elastic cushion or spring, and the joint o² interposed between
the jack and bottom lever, upon which the shaft supporting the said jack is
" mounted.
"
"
"Seventh. In a machine for stitching soles to the welts of boots and shoes, the
as shewn in Fig. 14,
with
arrangement, A of a stationary upper jaw the lower jaw being made movable
on an axis not concentric with that of the awl or needle to allow of being
substantially as set forth.
A
adjusted to varying thicknesses of soles, & and-so-constructed that the jaw or jaws
shall be alternately or intermittently locked or fastened--and--released--at--the

page_text: "proper intervals at every stitch during the operation-of sewing,-and--while
"clasping and pressing upon the work, as above set forth.
«
Eighth. The herein described device or equivalent contrivance for releasing or
unlocking the sliding bar which supports the movable jaw when it is desired to
move the jaw to insert or remove the work.
"Ninth. The construction of the stitching machine having the feed dog and the
"movable jaw mounted upon a straight perpendicular slide, substantially as
" described."
In witness whereof, we, Ebenezer Pocock and Charles Frederic Gardner,
Directors of the Blake and Goodyear Boot and Shoe Machinery Company
(Limited), have on behalf of said Company set our hands and seals, and
caused the seal of said Company to be hereunto affixed.
To the Commissioners of Patents for Inventions.
I hereby grant my fiat, giving leave to the within named Blake and Goodyear
Boot and Shoe Machinery Company (Limited) to file in the Great Seal Patent
Office, with the Specification to which the same relates, the within written Dis-
claimer and Memorandum of Alteration.
Dated this 2nd day of January 1880.