Year: 1886

page_text: Date of Application, 15th Apr., 1886.
Complete Left, 11th Jan., 1887.
Complete Accepted, 11th Feb., 1887.
I, ROCHESTER ILLINGWORTHI, of Hill Street, Coventry, Manufacturer, do hereby
declare the nature of this invention to be as follows
The improvements relate to the manufacture of certain woven fabrics, intended to be
used for coat linings and other purposes, and have for object the imitation of silk linings
such as are known as checks and cross over stripes.
To accomplish this and to effect my improvements, I arrange the warp threads when
checks are required partly of polished yarns and partly of non polished yarns, the
polished portions of the warps being composed of the brighter colours or such as are
required to form the warp stripes of the check. Or the whole of the warp threads may
be composed of polished yarns, either of one colour only, or of different colours.
The weft portion of the yarn is composed of the two kinds above named, that is to
say, polished and non polished yarns, and these are woven into the fabric alternately
by means of two or more separate shuttles, which shuttles may be actuated by means
of revolving, sliding, or other shuttle boxes as is well understood.
By preference the healds carrying the stripe warps are so actuated by the jacquard,
dobby, or other actuating mechanism, that the polished yarns or the specially coloured
polished yarns are brought to the surface by a twill, sateen, or other warp float
formation. And in similar manner the whole of the warp healds are actuated by a
twill, sateen, or other weft float formation, during the time the polished yarn weft is
passing through the shed, so as to throw the polished weft yarn on to the surface of the
fabric. By which means stripes of polished yarn are intermingled at intervals amongst
the non polished yarns, both lengthwise and crosswise, or crosswise only, forming

page_text: checks of such woven portions of polished yarn as produce fabrics suitable for linings in
imitation of silk fabrics for a like purpose.
Instead of stripes being formed in the arrangement of the warp yarns a plain warp
may be used in conjunction with the employment alternately of polished and non
polished yarns in the weft, producing cross over stripes alone.
The polished yarns are such as are known, as polished cotion, glacé thread, diamond
thread, and by other names, and may be composed of cotton, linen, jute, or other fibres.
The non polished yarns may be soft or other finished cotton or other fibre.
Variations in detail may be made, such as the size of the check, the breadth and
number of the stripes in the check, together with the float formation, the number of
colours and shuttles, without departing from the peculiar character of the invention.
WILLIAM GADD, C.E.,
64, Barton Arcade, Manchester,
Agent.

page_text: I, ROCHESTER ILLINGWORTH, of Hill Street, Coventry, Manufacturer, do hereby
declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed,
to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement:-
The improvements relate to the manufacture of certain woven fabrics, intended to be
used for coat linings and other purposes, and have for object the imitation of silk
linings such as are known as checks and cross-over stripes.
To accomplish this and to effect my improvements, I arrange the warp threads
when checks are required-parily of polished yarns and partly of non polished yarns,
the polished portions of the warps being composed of the brighter colours or such as
are required to form the warp stripes of the check.
Or the whole of the warp threads may be composed of polished yarns, either of one
colour only, or of different colours.
The weft portion of the yarn is composed of the two kinds above named, that is to
say, polished and non polished yarns, and these are woven into the fabric alternately
by means of two or more separate shuttles, which shuttles may be actuated by means
of revolving, sliding, or other shuttle boxes as is well understood.
By preference the healds carrying the stripe warps are so actuated by the jacquard,
dobby, or other actuating mechanism, that the polished yarns or the specially coloured
polished yarns are brought to the surface by a twill, sateen, or other warp float
formation. And in similiar manner the whole of the warp healds are actuated by a
twill, sateen, or other weft float formation, during the time the polished yarn weft is
passing to and fro through the shed, so as to throw the polished weft yarn on to the
surface of the fabric. By which means stripes of polished yarn are intermingled at
intervals amongst the non polished yarns, both lengthwise and crosswise, or crosswise
only, forming checks of such woven portions of polished yarn as produce fabrics
suitable for linings in imitation of silk fabrics for a like purpose.
Instead of stripes being formed in the arrangement of the warp yarns a plain warp
may be used in conjunction with the employment alternately of polished and non
polished yarns in the weft, producing cross-over stripes alone, the polished yarn
forming such cross-over stripes always being thrown on to the surface of the piece.
The polished yarns are such as are known as polished cotton, glacé thread, diamond
thread, and by other names, and may be composed of cotton, linen, jute, or other fibres.
The non polished yarns may be soft or other finished cotton or other fibre.
Variations in detail may be made, such as the size of the check, the breadth and

page_text: number of the stripes in the check, together with the float formation, the number of
colours and shuttles, without departing from; the peculiar character of the invention.
By this means the stripes introduced are woven with an admixture of polished yarns,
which are so actuated by the jacquard or other apparatus that they are floated to the
surface, and thus by contrast with the non polished portions of yarn, wholly or partially
forming the groundwork, an excellent imitation of silk goods is produced, which forms
a cheap substitute for silk linings and like fabrics.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I claim is :-
The alternate employment of polished and non polished yarns, both in warp and
weft, or in either alone, when such polished yarns are actuated by the jacquard or
other apparatus in twill or other float formation, and arranged in stripes or cross-overs,
or both, forming an imitation of silk, for the purpose of manufacturing linings for
garments or other like fabrics, in manner substantially as described.
WILLIAM GADD, C.E.,
64, Barton Arcade, Manchester,
Agent.