Improvements in Two Ply Fabrics and in the Method of Producing the same.
Year: 1891

page_text: Date of Application, 31st Mar., 1891-Accepted, 16th May, 1891
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Two Ply Fabrics and in the Method of Producing
the same.
I, WILLIAM BAIRD KEEFER, a citizen of the United States, residing at
No. 24 West Walnut Lane, (Germantown,) Philadelphia, in the County of
Philadelphia and State of Pennsylvania, United States of America, Manu-
facturer, do hereby declare the nature of my invention and in what manner the
same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement :-
My invention relates to a woven fabric especially adapted for use as a carpet,
but susceptible of being advantageously employed for curtains, furniture-coverings
and the like.
It is well known that in two ply scotch or ingrain carpets the warp-threads are
divided into four sets or portions, whereof two sets, as well as certain weft-threads
pertain normally to one ply, to-wit, the ground-ply, and the other two sets or
portions, as well as certain of the weft-threads, pertain normally to the other ply,
to-wit, the figure-ply. The warp-threads and weft-threads which pertain to the
ground-ply considered by themselves weave a figured or plain single ply cloth and
the warp-threads and weft-threads which pertain to the figure-ply, considered by
themselves, weave a figured or plain single ply cloth. The weaving of these two
plain single ply cloths proceeds alternately and with equal progression in the loom,
that is to say, the weaving proceeds with a shot of weft-thread thrown first in one
ply, then a shot in the other ply, then in the first ply again, then in the other ply
and so on alternately throughout the fabric. In the fabric when woven the two
plain single ply cloths lie above and below each other, the one constituting the
back where the other constitutes the face of the composite or two-ply fabric.
weaving, these two figured or plain cloths or plies are reversed, that is, the cloth
ply which formed the face is sent to the back and the other which formed the back
is brought to the face or "shot about" as it is sometimes called; and this reversal
of the plies from front to back and back to front of the fabric produces the color
effect, design or pattern in the finished article.
In
not
Although a description has been given of a fabric comprising two plain or
figured single ply cloths, and therefore called a two-ply fabric, it must be under-
stood that similar fabrics are ordinarily produced comprising three or more plain
or figured cloths, in which the color effect, design or pattern is produced by a "shot-
about"
or interchange of the cloths. In those portions of ingrain carpeting where
the ingraining of the plies occurs, that is, at cach "shot-about" the separate
cloths are tied together, but pockets or bags are formed where the fabric
ingrained by interchanging the positions of the cloths. The upper or face cloth
of the two superposed and separate cloths comprising the pockets or bag-like
portions is loose, and soon in use wears out, thus exposing the lower cloth to view
and impairing the utility and beauty of the fabric. Moreover, what is technically
known as "gazing" occurs throughout the fabric at those portions thereof where
by reason of gaps on one side of the fabric, the other face of the fabric shows or
can be seen through, thereby producing a mottled appearance and impairing the
general color effect of the face. Of course the color effect, that is, the number of
different colors that can be introduced in an ingrain carpet is limited and depends
upon the number of plies or cloths in the fabric and the greater the number of plies
the greater the possible variety of color.
The principal objects of my invention are first, to produce a durable and
homogeneous two-ply carpet fabric without pockets or bag-like portions and in

page_text: which the face and ground wefts are tied or knit together at every pick, so that
gazing is obviated; second, to produce a multiple-ply effect in a two-ply carpet
fabric; third, to reduce the number of warp-threads and thereby cheapen the cost
of production of the fabric and to increase the number of weft-threads, thereby
enhancing the figure or color effect; and fifth, to provide a simple and expeditious
method of producing a fabric having the above mentioned qualities.
In a carpet fabric embodying my invention the weft-threads are disposed in two
superposed planes or webs, as in an ingrain carpet, and are divided into a single
figuring weft-thread and a series comprising one or more non-figuring or ground
weft-threads. In producing a change in the pattern, that is to say, producing a
figured cloth, the face and back planes are not interchanged or ingrained, but the
single figuring weft thread that appeared on the face of the fabric is transferred to
the back thereof and becomes one of the series of non-figuring weft-threads and one
of the series of non-figuring or ground weft-threads is thrown to the surface, so as to
serve as a figuring weft-thread in lieu of the figuring weft-thread previously
withdrawn from the face and introduced into the back. The warp threads are
fewer in number than are employed in producing ingrain carpeting and are divided
into three sets or divisions arranged in the same manner throughout the entire
fabric including the plain as well as the figured portions thereof.
By explaining the arrangement of three of the warp threads pertaining
respectively to the three sets of warps and passing through one dent or split of
the reed, with reference to the weft-threads and to each other, the arrangement
of all the warp threads of the fabric will be readily understood.
Two of the warp-threads appear at the respective faces of the fabric and are
looped respectively around the figuring weft-threads and the series of non-figuring
weft-threads, and the other warp-thread lies between the face and ground weft-
threads at one pick and one of the two warp-threads, which were at the respective
faces of the fabric, goes to the centre thereof and the other crosses and goes to the
opposite face and the third warp-thread, which was at the centre goes to one or
the other of the faces at the next pick, and this interchange of warp-threads
occurs at every succeeding pick throughout the fabric.
The method of weaving a fabric embodying features of my invention is
exceedingly simple and may be carried into effect by means of any of the well
known types of looms that are provided with a jacquard machine. However, a
description of my method of weaving will be given in connection with a loom
having a jacquard machine and three sets of heddles pertaining respectively to
the three sets or divisions of the warp. In practice a thread from each of the
three sets of warps and consequently from each of the three sets of heddles is
drawn in through each split of the reed, there being three ends in each split.
The color of the respective weft and warp threads may be varied and will be
such as are adapted to produce the required design. The weft-threads will be
introduced into the fabric in predetermined order which may be controlled by a
shuttle box motion or in any preferred manner, that is best suited to produce
the design to be woven, for example, by hand.
The warp-threads are lifted or jacked up and dropped by the ordinary operation
of the jacquard machine according as they are selected by the cards thereof, and in
the following order, to-wit, certain of the threads as are selected by the card and
appertaining to two of said three sets of warps are lifted or jacked up simultaneously,
certain of the threads as selected by the card and appertaining to one of said two
sets of warp threads are lifted or jacked up by themselves, and certain of the
threads as are selected by the card and appertaining to the third of said sets are
lifted or jacked up by themselves at every pick and in predetermined order.
The nature and characteristic features of my invention will be more fully
understood from the following description taken in connection with the accom-
panying drawings forming part hereof; and in which
Figure 1, is a diagrammatic representation of a portion of a fabric embodying

page_text: features of my invention and taken in the direction of the warp-threads, that is, a
section through the weft-threads and showing a single figuring weft-thread and a
single non-figuring or ground weft-thread j and
Fig. 2, is a similar view showing a single figuring weft-thread and a series
comprising two non-figuring or ground weft-threads.
In the drawings 1, 2 and 3 are warp-threads of like or unlike color and texture.
In the present instance they are intended to be of unlike color, but my invention is
not limited to the employment of unlike threads, because excellent results have
been attained by the employment of warp-threads of the same color.
These warp threads are disposed in the same manner in Figs. 1 and 2, that is to
say, at one pick, certain of them are looped around the face weft-threads and
certain of them around the ground weft threads, while certain of them lie between
the face and ground weft threads, at the next succeeding pick, certain of the warp
threads which were at the face or back of the fabric cross over and go to the other
side thereof and certain of the warp-threads which were at the face or back of the
fabric go to the centre thereof, and certain of the warp threads which were at the
centre go to the face or back of the fabric, and so on forming two superposed sheds
throughout the fabric, as will be readily understood from an examination of the
drawings.
For the sake of a further description of the invention, it will be assumed that in
Fig. 1 weft-threads in sets of four colors, viz.: white, black, red and blue are
required in order to produce the pattern and that in Fig. 2, weft-threads in sets of
five colors, vi.: white, black, red, blue and green are required to produce the
pattern, although it must be understood that a greater number of differently
colored weft threads may be employed in connection with the hereinabove described
arrangement or disposition of warp threads.
·
In Figs. 1 and 2, w is the white weft, d is the black weft, b is the red weft, and
a is the blue weft; and in Fig. 2, e is the green weft.
From an inspection of Fig. 1, it will appear that the figuring weft-threads, in
the present instance designated by the reference letters b, w, d, a, b, w, d, a, b, wand d,
are all located in the upper of two superposed planes or webs and are cach
contained in a shed by itself, and also that the non-figuring or ground weft-threads,
in the present instance designated by the reference letters d, a, b, w, d, a, b, w, d, a
and are all contained in the lower of the two planes or webs and are each con-
tained in a shed by itself, so that the face weft-threads and ground weft threads are
tied together in separate sheds at each beat up or pick, whereby the formation of
pockets is entirely obviated and the color effect much improved.
с
Referring now to Fig. 2, it will be seen that the figuring weft-threads b, w, d, a
and c, are located in the upper plane or web and are contained in separate sheds,
that is, one thread in each shed, as described with reference to Fig. 1, and that the
ground weft-threads d, c, a, b, c, w, d, b, a, b, c and w, are located in the lower plane
or web, as above described, with reference to Fig. 1; however, in this instance some
of the sheds of the ground plane or web contain two ground wefts d and c, b and c,
d and b, b and c instead of one, so that an additional weft-thread, to-wit, the green
weft-thread c, is introduced into the fabric without materially changing its texture,
because the sheds containing two weft-threads are located on the back of the fabric
and because the two weft-threads are firmly tied therein at every beat-up of the
loom or pick. An inspection of Fig. 2 will also show that the additional weft-
thread c, in some instances changes places with one of the figuring weft-threads,
which latter is introduced together with a non-figuring weft-thread into one of the
sheds of the lower plane, so that the weft-thread c, is thus brought to the face of
the fabric, thereby improving the color effect thereof.
In order that the nature and characteristic features of my method of weaving
may be fully understood, a brief description of one manner of carrying the same into
effect for producing the hereinabove described fabric, will now be given in
connection with a loom, not shown in the drawing, but which is provided with

page_text: three sets of heddles and a jacquard machine, although other preferred types of
looms may be employed.
The
The entire warp is divided into three divisions appertaining respectively to the
three sets of heddles and one thread of each set, for example, those designated by
the reference numerals 1, 2 and 3, are led in through each split of the reed.
sets of heddles and of warps corresponding to these threads will hereinafter be
designated by the numerals 1, 2 and 3, respectively.
"
In producing the fabric illustrated in Figs. 1 and 2 at the first pick, that is, the
one shown at the left hand side, certain of the warp threads of set 2, as are selected
by the card of the jacquard machine are lifted or "jacked" up by the ordinary
operation of the machine, the sets 1 and 3, being maintained in a normal or
depressed position, whereupon a shot of weft b, is introduced into the shed thus
formed. Certain of the warp-threads appertaining to sets 2 and 3, as are selected
by the card of the jacquard machine, are then lifted or "jacked
up by the
ordinary operation of the jacquard machine and a ground-weft d, Fig. 1, or two
ground-wefts and c, Fig. 2, is or are then introduced into the shed thus formed,
whereupon the sheds are closed up by a beat-up of the lay and reed of the loom in
the usual manner. Of course, it will be understood that instead of lowering certain
of the warp-threads 2, after the first shot of weft-thread has been introduced and
then immediately lifting or jacking them up again before the second shot of weft-
thread is introduced, said warp-threads may be maintained in an elevated
position during the introduction of the first and second shots of weft-threads, in
which case only the set of warp-threads 3, will be lifted or jacked up between the
introduction of the first and second shots of weft-threads.
At the second pick certain of the warp-threads appertaining to set 1, as are
selected by the card of the jacquard machine, are lifted or "jacked" up, the sets 2
and 3, being retained in a normal position, whereupon a shot of weft-thread w, is
introduced into the shed thus formed. Certain of the warp-threads as are selected
by the card and appertaining to sets 1 and 2, are then lifted or "jacked" up and a
ground-weft a, Figs. 1 and 2, is introduced into the shed thus formed, whereupon
the sheds are closed up by a beat-up of the lay and reed of the loom in the usual
manner. In this instance, as in all similar instances throughout the operation of
weaving, certain of the warp-threads may be retained in an elevated position during
the operation of introducing both the first and second shots of weft-threads instead
of lowering the warps of set 1, after the introduction of the first shot of weft and
raising them again before the introduction of the second shot of weft. At the third
pick certain of the warp-threads appertaining to set 3, as are selected by the card
of the jacquard machine, are lifted or "jacked" up, the sets 1 and 2 being down,
whereupon a shot of weft d, is introduced into the shed thus formed. Certain of
the warp-threads as are selected by the card and appertaining to sets 3 and 1, are
then lifted or "jacked" up, and a ground-weft b, Fig. 1, or a series of ground-wefts,
for example, two ground-wefts b and c, Fig. 2, is or are then introduced into the
shed thus formed, whereupon the sheds are closed up by a beat-up of the lay and
reed of the loom in the usual manner, and so on lifting certain of the warps as are
selected by the cards throughout the fabric and in the following order :-
At one
pick set 2. sets 2 and 3 and set 1; at the second pick set 1, sets 1 and 2 and set 3;
at the third pick set 3, sets 3 and 1 and set 2; at the fourth pick set 1, sets 1 and 2
and set 3; at the fifth pick set 2, sets 2 and 3 and set 1.
It is obvious inasmuch as certain of the heddles appertaining to two of the sets
of heddles are operated together, that the ground weft-threads may, if preferred,
be introduced before the face or figuring weft-threads, but when an order is once
established, it is repeated in the manner above described throughout the entire
fabric.
My improved fabric as compared with old ingrain carpeting is cheaper to manu-
facture and possesses better wearing qualities and figure and color effects, than either
three or two ply ingrains.

page_text: It will be obvious to those skilled in the art to which my present invention
appertains that modifications may be made in details without departing from the
true spirit of the invention, and hence I do not limit myself either to the exact
fabric and mode of procedure hereinabove described, or to the employment of any.
particular type of loom; but
Having thus particularly pointed out and ascertained the nature of my said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that
what I claim is :-
1. A homogeneous woven fabric having a face web comprising figuring weft-
threads and a back web comprising ground weft-threads with three sets of warp-
threads tying said webs together and certain of the warp-threads of two of said
sets looped around said figuring and ground weft-threads respectively and certain of
the warp-threads of the third of said sets of warp-threads looped between the same
throughout the fabric, substantially as described.
2. A. homogeneous woven fabric having a face web comprising figuring weft-
threads and a back web comprising a series of ground weft-threads with three sets
of warp-threads tying said webs together and certain of the warp-threads of two of
said sets looped around said figuring weft-threads and said series of ground weft-
threads respectively, and certain of the warp-threads of the third of said sets
looped between the same throughout the fabric, substantially as described.
3. A. homogeneous woven fabric having a face web comprising figuring weft-
threads and a back web comprising a series of ground weft-threads and single
weft-threads, with three sets of warp-threads tying said webs together and certain
of the warp-threads of two of said sets looped around said figuring weft-threads and
around said series and single ground weft-threads respectively, and certain of the
warp-threads of the third of said sets looped between the face and back webs,
substantially as described.
4. The method of weaving, which consists in employing warp-threads in three
divisions, operating certain of the warp-threads appertaining to two of said three
divisions simultaneously, operating certain of the warp-threads appertaining to one
of said two divisions by themselves, operating certain of the warp-threads of the
third of said divisions and introducing figuring weft-threads and ground weft-threads
singly, substantially as and for the purposes described.
5. The method of weaving, which consists in employing warp-threads in three
divisions, operating certain of the warp-threads appertaining to two of said three
divisions simultaneously, operating certain of the warp-threads appertaining to one
of said two divisions by themselves, operating certain of the warp-threads of the
third of said divisions and introducing figuring weft-threads singly and ground
weft-threads in series, substantially as and for the purposes described.
Dated this 20th day of March A.D. 1891.
WILLIAM BAIRD KEEFER.
W. P. Thompson & Boult,
Agents for the Applicant.