Improvements in Weaving with the Jacquard and similar Mechanism.
Year: 1896

page_text: Date of Application, 3rd June, 1896-Accepted, 3rd June, 1897
[Communicated from abroad by JEAN BAPTISTE DEBAGUOY, 80 Rue de Rome,
Sampler, and JULES DEPERCHIN, Rue Favreuil No. 6, Mechanician, both of
Roubaix, in the Republic of France.]
Improvements in Weaving with the Jacquard and similar
Mechanism.
1, WILLIAM PHILLIPS THOMPSON, F.C.S., M.I.M.E., of The Agency for
Foreign Patent Solicitors, 322, High Holborn, in the County of Middlesex,
6, Lord Street, Liverpool, and 6, Bank Street, Manchester, both in the County
of Lancaster, and Lower Temple Street, Birmingham, in the County of Warwick,
Civil Engineer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner
the same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement :-
The object of the present application is a new method of weaving consisting in
a novel system of tying up with a corresponding modification in the placing of
the cards.
In the method of weaving now in use, when it is required to reproduce, by
means of the Jacquard loom or similar mechanism across the whole width of a
fabric, a pattern without repetition, each warp thread is actuated by means of a
hook and there are sometimes required several Jacquard mechanisms and generally
speaking as many mechanisms as is necessary in order to have a number of hooks
equal to the number of threads.
In our new method of manufacturing these fabrics a number of neck twines
theoretically variable at will, but practically and generally between three and
eight in number is actuated by means of a single hook not in order to make several
ways or several repetitions but so as to make a single design across the whole
width of the stuff. When it is desired to make several repetitions in the system.
now in vogue as many neck twines are used to each hook as there are to be
repetitions.
In further explanation of our invention let us take the case of a pattern having
5,200 warp threads. In order to actuate these in the ordinary manner we must
have 5200 hooks and as the mechanism usually employed in this class of work
possesses only 1300 hooks it would be requisite to have four such mechanisms to
weave the pattern; moreover each separate mechanism must have its separate set
of cards, consequently fourfold preparation and pricking of the cards and
complicated joining up and connecting. By our new system on the contrary,
taking the method of tying up by fours by way of example, four warp threads will
be joined to the same hook, consequently we can actuate the 5200 threads by means
of a single mechanism of 1300 hooks and there is only one set of cards to be
prepared. It is true that the design will not. have the same finish as one woven
with four mechanisms in the usual manner, but the effect at a short distance away
will be the same. In certain cases it would of course be possible to reduce even
more the number of hooks, but the more these are reduced the more the details
will be blurred in the fabric. The arrangement of the warp threads is such that
the pattern is followed as nearly as possible with the above indicated limitation.
The tying up of the warp threads adapted in this 'process is effected in a given.

page_text: order as hereinafter explained :-The warp threads are connected to the hooks not
one after the other but according to the order as hereinafter set forth, namely:
N
n
In our new system we place upon each hook a certain number of neck twines
for each pattern and moreover as many times this same number as there are
repetitions required. In the ordinary method if we indicate by N the number of
warp threads and the number of repetitions by n then will indicate the number
of hooks of the mechanism. In our system we shall have for the number of
N
hooks ;; a representing the number of neck twines which we assign to each
hook for the same design. Thus it will be seen that if we reproduce practically in
a fabric a pattern of any kind we shall have by taking a neck twines to each
hook reduced in the same proportion the number of mechanisms and of pattern
cards.
n x a
The tying up is effected preferably by the method represented in the drawings.
In this method the first hook carries a neck twine, the second two neck twines, the
third three neck twines the nth carries a neck 'twines, n representing the number of
neck twines on each hook to each selected tying up. Then there will be for each
of the hooks that follow the same number n of neck twines, nevertheless for the
n-1 last hooks the arrangement is inversely to the n-1 first hooks, that is to say.
there will be successively n-1 neck twines....3.2.1. Applying this general
rule of tying up to some special cases we have in the tying up by threes Figure 1
provided one neck twine for the first hook, two neck twines for the second
hook and three neck twines for the third hook and for all the following
hooks except the two last which have respectively two and one neck twines. In
the tying up by fours (Figure 2) there is one neck twine for the first hook, two for
the second hook; three neck twines for the third hook, four neck twines for the
fourth hook and four neck twines for all the following ones up to the three last
which have respectively three two and one neck twines. In the tying up by fives,
Fig. 3 there is one neck twine for the first hook, two neck twines for the second
hook, three neck twines for the third hook, four neck twines for the fourth hook,
five neck twines for the fifth hook, and five neck twines for all the following hooks
up to the four last which have respectively 4, 3, 2 and 1. These explanations may
be sufficient to illustrate the application of the general rule formulated above and
applicable to tying up by sixes, and by sevens and by eights, this being understood
it becomes plain from the drawings in what manner the different neck twines for
each hook are to be tied up. The first neck twine of the first hook always takes
the first hole, the first twine of the second hook takes the second hole and the
second twine of the second hook takes the hole n + 1 indicating by n the number
of neck twines to the book. This method of tying up is represented in detail in
the drawings which show by means of figures placed at each hook the numbers of
the apertures in the mechanism which correspond to the neck twines of each hook.
This method of tying up with a little practice becomes very easy and quickly
applicable, but it is to be remarked that for any book the first neck twine is
adjusted to the first hole which remains unoccupied and all the others successively
passing always n 2 holes n being the number of neck twines to each hook for a
given tying up.
Proceeding now to the modification which must be made in the pattern card of
this new system of tying up, in order to make the finished tissue reproduce
undistorted the design of the pattern card to which it is to correspond, and in the
drawing Fig. 4. is represented a specimen of our pattern. As the tying up was
by four neck twines to the hook it necessary to choose either three or twelve as
the number for the pattern card. If it had been desired to effect a tying up by
fives in the same conditions of warp threads and of weft threads it would have
been requisite to increase the twelve to fifteen. By securing these conditions for
the pattern carding the design is reproduced without alteration upon the fabric

page_text: whereas if the pattern carding had been made upon paper of 10 by 10 or of
12 by 12 the pattern would have been distorted, the height would have become
for instance four times diminished in the tying up by fours. These explanations
will suffice to make clear the new method of weaving which possesses the following
advantages:
First. The advantage of being able to carry out a pattern with a single mechanism
and a single set of pattern cards whereas there is required for the ordinary system
several mechanisms and as many sets of pattern cards.
Second. The advantage of being able to weave without changing the harnesses
and with the same number of neck twines to the hook different kinds of satins and
patterns of any description as also of effecting reductions with the greatest ease
by diminishing the number of neck twines to the hook by letting fall one or more
threads at each hook, an arrangement which gives a fresh series of patterns, whilst
simplifying the mechanism required.
Third. The advantage of being able to carry out with facility large special
patterns as for furniture stuffs, table linen etc.
Fourth. The advantage of effecting various savings, saving in labour by the
fixing and unfixing of the harness, saving in the wear of the same, saving in
motive power for the operation of the loom, saving in the use of subsidiary
materials effected by means of the considerable increase in the output, a saving
in oversight, in pattern carding, also of the cards and in consequence of all a very
considerable reduction in the cost of production.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
The new method of weaving fabrics substantially as hereinbefore described with
reference to the accompanying drawings.
W. P. THOMPSON & Co.,
322, High Holborn, London, W.C., Patent Agents for the Applicant.