IMPROVEMENTS IN SHIRTS
Year: 1864

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Joseph Strouse, of the City of New York, in the
United States of America, Shirt Manufacturer, for the Invention of
"IMPROVEMENTS IN SHIRTS."
Sealed the 3rd February 1865, and dated the 26th August 1864.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Joseph Strouse at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 26th
August 1864.
I, JOSEPH STROUSE, of the City of New York, in the United States of
America, Shirt Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of the said In-
vention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN SHIRTS," to be as follows:-
The object of my Invention is to produce a well-setting and well-fitting
shirt, allowing of the various motions of the arms or body with ease and
comfort. For this purpose I form a curved yoke or shoulder piece, so cut or
formed as to fit around the shoulders of the wearer smoothly like a coat might
fit; the yoke is so cut as to lie partly on the back and partly on the front of
the body, and is preferably in one piece instead of two as is usual. The lower
part of the yoke at back, instead of being straight, is cut so as to form a spring.
or allow ample play for the motion of the wearer's back and arms. The
fullness of the body of the shirt is concentrated in the centre of the back,
below the yoke, where the back is hollow, so that such fullness affords con-

page_text: siderable play and ample room for the wearer's movements. The sleeves are
cut in conformity with the body, and at their junction with the body there is
a fullness or excess of material, forming as it were a spring, so as to allow of
the motion of the arms without interfering with the fit, set, or position of the
body of the shirt.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said .Joseph Strouse in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
15th February 1865.
"
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JOSEPII
STROUSE, of the City of New York, in the United States of America, Shirt
Manufacturer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-sixth day of August, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-four, in the twenty-eighth year of
Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto
me, the said Joseph Strouse, Her special license-that I, the said Joseph Strouse,
my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said
Joseph Strouse, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time
agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter
during the term, therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use,
exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland,
the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an' Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
SHIRTS," upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said Joseph Strouse,
my executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or
their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be
performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent-Office
within six calendar months next and immediately after the date of the said
Letters Patent.
.
i
NOW KNOW. YE, that I, the said Joseph Strouse, do hereby declare
the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be
performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following
statement, reference being had to the Drawing hereunto annexed, and to the
letters and figures marked thereon (that is to say) :-
.
Fig. 1 represents the yoke of my said shirt, showing the shape in which
the same is cut out.

page_text: Fig. 2 represents the shape of said yoke when the person wearing said shirt
extends or crosses his arms or throws his shoulders forward.
I
Fig. 3 represents the yoke and back of my said shirt with one sleeve thereof
raised and the other hanging down. Similar letters denote the same parts:
The first part of my Invention relates to forming the yoke A for the shirt
as a curve on each side, as represented between the points a and b, so that
the yoke lies flat on the shoulders of the person wearing the same. The back
of most. persons is higher at the upper edge of the shoulder blades, and this
curve brings the edge of the yoke further up on the shoulder than this portion
of the back of the wearer, so that the body C of the shirt fits smooth like
a coat.
The second part of my said Invention relates to a convex curve.given to
the yoke A at the central portion of the back part thereof, as represented
between the points b, b. The object of this is to allow the yoke freely to
assume the position shown in Fig. 2, when the shoulders or arms of the wearer
are extended or crossed in front, in which position the curvature of the yoke is
increased, and there is no liability to tear or strain the yoke by this movement
of the person; whereas, if the yoke were. straight across the back, it would be
exposed to an undue strain when the arms or shoulders are thrown forward.
The third part of my said Invention relates to plaiting or gathering in the
fullness of the body C of the shirt at the central portion of the yoke at the
back, as represented between the points, a, Figs. 1 & 2. When the
fullness of the shirt is gathered into the yoke at this point, the shirt sets
smoothly upon the top and back portions of the shoulders of the wearer, and
the fullness lies in the central hollow portion of the back between the shoulder
blades, where the back of a man is hollow, thus improving the fitting of the
shirt, and the said fullness allows the arms and shoulders to be freely moved
without any undue strain on any of the parts, and without causing the shirt
to become wrinkled or displaced on the shoulders.
The fourth part of my said Invention relates to the shape given to the
sleeves and body of the shirt at and near the part where they are joined.
This shape is represented at d, Fig. 3, from which it will be seen that the
sleeves are inserted so that when the arm is raised, as shown in Fig. 3, the
parts are smooth. The object of this mode of cutting the body in conformity
with the sleeves is to allow freedom of movement with the arms, while the
body part of the shirt is not moved in the least.
All these improvements conspire to allow ease of movement to the arms,
while the bosom and body part of the shirt remain smooth and properly
in-place..

page_text: What I claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent is,--
First, the curve of the yoke on and around the shoulders, as shown at a, b,
for the purposes set forth.
Second, the curve of the central portion of the yoke at the back thereof,
for the object specified..
Third, gathering or plaiting in the fullness of the body of the shirt at the
central portion of the back of the yoke, as set forth.
Fourth, the mode of shaping the body and sleeves so that the body of the
shirt will not be disturbed by the motion of the arms, as specified.
In witness whereof, I, the said Joseph Strouse, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this Thirtieth day of December, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-four.
Witnesses,
LEMUEL W. SERRELL,
121, Nassau St., New York.
CHA³. H. SMITII,
121, Nassau St., New York.
JOSEPH STROUSE. (L.S.)