CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF HATS
Year: 1852

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JAMES
JOHNSON, of Waterloo Place, Haggerstone Bridge, Kingsland, in the County
of Middlesex, Hat Manufacturer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the First day of May, in the year of Our Lord One
thousand eight hundred and fifty-two, in the fifteenth year of Her reign,
did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the
said James Johnson, Her especial license that I, the said James Johnson,
my exors, admors, and assigns, or such others as I, the said James Johnson,
my exors, admors, and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others,
from time to time and at all times thereafter during the term therein
expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend,
within that part of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland called
England, Her Dominion of Wales, and Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, and
in Her Islands of Jersey, Guernsey, Alderney, Sark, and Man, and also
in all Her Colonies and Plantations abroad, my Invention of "CERTAIN
IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF HATS;" upon the condition (amongst
others) that I, the said James Johnson, by an instrument in writing under my
hand and seal, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said
Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, and cause the
same to be enrolled in Her said Majesty's High Court of Chancery within
six calendar months next or immediately after the date of the said Letters
Patent.

page_text: NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said condition, I, the said
James Johnson, do hereby describe the nature of my said Invention as
follows, that is to say:-
The nature of my said Invention consists in the introduction of whalebone
into the side crowns, tips, and brims of what are usually called hat bodies,
without adding too much to their weight or to their cost, but in such manner
as to give them the required stiffness, elasticity, and evenness of surface, com-
bined with lightness and ease to the wearer; and in further compliance with
the said condition, I, the said James Johnson, do hereby further describe the
manner in which my said Invention is to be performed, as follows; that is to say,
I prefer to introduce the whalebone into what is called tarletan, or other such
fabric, in manner herein-after explained, and I shall first describe the method
of making those parts of the hat body called the side crowns. Cut a piece of
tarlotan half the size of the side crown to be manufactured, then take strips of
whalebone about nine inches long, and cut or split to about the size of ordinary
sewing thread, which is the thickness I think most useful, but that of course
must depend upon the strength or stiffness required to be given to the hat
body. I then introduce by hand these whalebone threads into the tarletan in
the direction of the height of the side crown, and a quarter or half an inch
apart, more or less, as shewn by the Diagram in the margin, taking up a stitch
as it were on each end of the whalebone; next lay the tarletan so prepared on
a cork leaf, turning what may be called the whalebone side of the tarletan
down on the cork, and thus keeping the whalebone between the cork and the
tarletan; then take what is commonly called water lac, of the strength ordina-
rily used for gossamer hats, dissolved with ammonia, and mix it with very finely
pulverized cork, or cork dust, till it becomes as thick as it can be used with a
brush, apply the mixture to the tarletan (which is now uppermost, as described,)
with a brush and with a heavy coat, which will combine the cork leaf, whale-
bone, and tarletan in one fabric. When dry press the square or half side
crown flat in any ordinary manner, and when removed from the press lay on
a second coat effectually to hide the whalebone. Next, hot press these half
side crowns so produced, and this will give them a smooth and even surface;
the strength or rigidity of the hat body will be in proportion to the quantity to
lac used. When the half side crowns are brought to the state last described,
take two of them and cut each to the required form for the block about to be
used, and smooth down, thin, or reduce the edges which lap over to be closed for
about one-eighth of an inch broad with glass paper. Cover the parts which
are to be overlapped with thin lac, and when dry the two half side crowns are

page_text: ready for closing with a moderately hot iron. Steep the side crowns so closed
in tepid water for a few minutes previous to blocking, and if the block be stiff
to enter hold it with the side crowns to the fire to warm; and it will block
easily. The tip may be either of cork or gossamer, or gossamer and cork
dust, whalebone being perhaps unnecessary in that part of the hat body; then
cover all over with muslin and lac in the usual way, which is known to all
hatters. The brims are made on a frame the same as is used in making
gossamer hats.
Take splits or threads of whalebone, perhaps a little stouter
than those used in the side crown, four inches long, and introduce them as
before described into tarletan or other such fabric, all round, radiating from
the centre in the form and size of a brim, say one-eighth or one-fourth of an
inch apart on the inner circle, then stretch calico or other fabric on the frame,
lay thereon the prepared tarletan into which the whalebone has been intro-
duced, keeping the whalebone between the calico and tarletan; next coat the
upper side of the tarletan heavily with a brush with the mixture as described
for the side crowns, then immediately stretch on another ply, as it is called, of
calico, and fill it full as it will hold with water lac on both sides to give it
strength, and to bring up the face when hot pressed, which it is desirable to
do. The brim is then ready to be attached to the crown in the usual way;
dissolved gutta percha or caoutchouc may be substituted for the water lac, but
the odour of their usual solvents is so objectionable, that until some better
solvent is found I do not advise its application to my hat bodies. If the
advantages of a cork hat are desired to be produced without the additional
expense of the whalebone, and also to avoid the necessity of using cork leaf,
which is likewise expensive, then I make all parts of a gossamer hat body in
their usual way known in the trade, but, instead of using the water lac of the
ordinary kind, I mix with it finely pulverized cork dust; this will be found to
produce a hat body very superior to the common gossamer. I do not give
further directions on this point, because every journeyman is competent to
decide the best mode of using the admixture of cork dust and lac, according
to the nature of his work.
And having now described the nature of my said Invention, and the manner
of performing the same, I claim,―
First, the introduction of whalebone in manner aforesaid into tarletan or
other such fabric, for the purpose of forming hat bodies therewith.
Second, the combination of whalebone with leaves of cork or with cork dust,
for the purpose of making hat bodies or parts of hat bodies.
Third, the making of hat bodies, or parts of hat bodies, of such woven

page_text: fabrics as are now usually used for that purpose, but combined with cork dust
or powder.
In witness whereof, I, the said James Johnson, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, this First day of November, One thousand eight
hundred and fifty-two.
AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the First day of November, in
the year of our Lord 1852, the aforesaid James Johnson came before our
said Lady the Queen in Her Chancery, and acknowledged the Specification
aforesaid, and all and every thing therein contained and specified, in form
above written. And also the Specification aforesaid was stamped according
to the tenor of the Statute made for that purpose.
Enrolled the First day of November, in the year of our Lord One
Land ad and fifter town.