IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FIGURED CLOTH, IN BROAD OR NARROW LOOMS
Year: 1882

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to James Kirkman, Manufacturer, Robert Smith, Gentleman
and Peter Entwistle Draper, all of Bolton in the County of Lancaster for an
Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FIGURED CLOTH, IN
BROAD OR NARROW LOOMS."
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said James. Kirkman, Robert
Smith, and Peter Entwistle at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on
the 2nd August 1882.
JAMES KIRKMAN, Manufacturer, ROBERT SMITH, Gentlemen, and PETER
ENTWISTLE, Draper, all of Bolton in the County of Lancaster. "IMPROVEMENTS
IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FIGURED CLOTH, IN BROAD OR NARROW LOOMS."
The object of this improvement is to obtain a raised or embossed figure on a
twill or satin ground, the figure to be plain satin or twill, as desired.
This cloth can be made either with one or two shuttles with a similar effect,
and is suitable for white or coloured goods. This cloth is to be called by name
"Excelsior."
To make this cloth the loom is to be gaited with three or more cumber boards
or as many as required to make a twill or satin ground, each board to work
separately. This cloth can also be made with the cards cut for each pick and all
in one cumber board, also with pressed healds in place of boards.
The ends from the mounting or machine to be on a separate beam and to have
extra tension over and above the face warp. The face warp to be on a separate
beam and drawn in on two or inore healds, with one end in each space of the reed.
The mounting or figure warp to be drawn in with one, two or more ends in each
space of the reed.
This cloth is picked as follows:-The first two picks or more, with the machine
raised, and one of the face healds up each alternate pick. The machine goes down
and the first and second boards rise, and all the face healds, one pick being
put, in this shed. The machine again rises and two or more picks are put in,

page_text: with each alternate heald up each pick. The machine then goes down and
the second and third boards rise with the face heald up for one pick. The
machine again rises, two or more picks are put in with one of the healds up each
alternate pick. The machine again drops and the third and first board rises, and
all the face healds up, and one pick is put, in this shed.
In making this cloth in two shuttle looms the ends are drawn in, exactly the
same as in the one shuttle cloth, as described above, and picked in the following
manner :-
Two picks with the machine up and one of the two face healds up each alternate
pick. The next pick is put in with the machine down and the first and second
boards raised and both the face healds raised. The next pick is put in with the
machine down and the second and third boards raised and both the face healds
raised. The next two picks are put in with the machine up and one of the two
face healds up each alternate pick. The next pick is put in with the machine
down and the third and first boards raised and both the face healds raised, and
so on in this order until the completion of the round or pattern.
The two shuttle cloth can also be produced by raising one heald only for each
pick with the machine down, and also the one shuttle cloth with one heald up
while the pick goes in for making the ground.
▼

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said James Kirkman, Robert Smith, and Peter Entwistle in the Great
Seal Patent Office on the 31st January 1883.
"
JAMES KIRKMAN Manufacturer ROBERT SMITH Gentleman, and PETER
ENTWISTLE Draper, all of Bolton in the County of Lancaster IMPROVEMENTS
IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FIGURED CLOTH IN BROAD OR NARROW LOOMS."
The object of these Improvements is to obtain a raised or embossed figure on a
twill or satin ground, the figure to be plain satin or twill as desired. This cloth
can be made either with one or two shuttles with a similar effect and is suitable
for white or colored goods.
This cloth is called by name "Excelsior."
"
In order that these our improvements in the manufacture of the "Excelsior
cloth may be better understood and carried into operation we will now proceed to
describe them more fully with the various ways by which they can be accomplished
by the means of picking and drawing in of the ends, which is as follows:-
To make this cloth the loom is gaited with three or more cumber boards, or as
many as required to make a twill or satin ground-each board to work separately.
This cloth can also be made with the cards cut for each pick, and all in one
cumber board, also with pressed healds in place of boards. The ends from the
mounting or machine are on a separate beam and have extra tension over and
above the face warp. The face warp is on a separate beam and drawn in on two
or more healds, with one end in each space of the reed. The mounting or figure
warp is drawn in with one, two, or more ends in each space of the reed.
This cloth is picked as follows:-the first two picks or more with the machine
raised, and one of the face healds up each alternate pick. The mounting goes down
and the first and second boards rise, and all the face healds, one pick being put in
this shed. The machine again rises and two or more picks are put in with each
alternate heald up each pick. The machine then goes down, and the second and
third boards rise, with the face healds up, for one pick. The machine again rises,
two or more picks are put in, with one of the healds up each alternate pick. The
machine again drops and the third and first boards rise and all the face healds up,
and one pick is put in this shed.
In making this cloth in two shuttle looms, the ends are drawn in exactly the
same as in the one shuttle cloth, as described above and picked in the following
manner :-
Two picks with the machine up, and one of the two face healds up, each alternate
pick. The next pick is put in with the machine down, the first and second boards
raised, and both the face healds raised. The next pick is put in with the machine
down, the second and third boards raised, and both the face healds raised. The
next two picks are put in with the machine up, and one of the two face healds up,
each alternate pick. The next pick is put in with the machine down the third
and first boards raised, and both the face healds raised, and so on, in this order,
until the completion of the round or pattern.
.
The two shuttle cloth can also be produced by raising one heald only for each
pick with the machine down; and the one shuttle cloth with one heald up while
the pick goes in for making the ground.
The ground part of the cloth is changed by drawing two face ends and the ends
from two "mails" in the mounting together, and by splitting them in each dent or
space of the reed; it can also be made with one face end only in alternate dents or
spaces of the reed, or with one or more ends in each space of the reed.

page_text: To make this cloth reversible in one shuttle work, the design is so arranged,
that one card is cut for the ground on the face of the cloth and the figure on the
back of the cloth, and one pick or more is put in with this card in place of healds
or pressing boards:-One set of cards are cut for the figure, both being laced
together, one or more picks are put in, the cards and face healds being changed as
wanted; the cloth is reversible, and at the same time the weft and warp are well
stitched into the cloth. This cloth can be made with a full mounting, all the yarn
being drawn into the "mails" and jacquard machine, working all the sheds.-The
ground part of this cloth can be varied according to the design, and will also be on
the figure on the back of the cloth.
-
In all the methods of making this cloth with one shuttle, it can be changed to
two shuttle work, by putting two picks of fine weft in with the card or presser
that forms the ground, changing one of the face bealds for the second fine pick.
The following methods will make this cloth in two shuttle work-the machine
is raised to form the figure with all the mounting yarn up in the ground part of
the cloth and down in that part where the figure has to be made, one of the face
healds is raised and one pick of course weft is put in this shed, the other face
heald is raised, and that up the last, down, the second pick of coarse weft is put
in, the third pick, one of fine weft is put into the last shed the machine then
goes down and one half of the mounting yarn is raised with the face heald that
was down in the last shed, and the fourth pick one of fine weft is put in, the
machine and one face heald is raised and the fifth pick one of coarse weft is put
in, the healds change and the sixth pick one of coarse weft is put in, the seventh
pick one of fine weft is put into the last shed the machine then goes down and.
half of the mounting yarn is raised that was down in the fourth shed, the face
healds change, when one pick of fine weft is put in this shed which completes
the round of eight picks. The machine can be down when both of the fine picks
are put in, one half of the mounting yarn being up for the first two fine picks and
the other half up for the last two picks in the round with one face heald up for
each shed, being a round of eight picks as before..
By our improved methods, this "Excelsior" cloth can be made in colored work
with a white centre, and a colored border or a white border and a colored centre,
or any alternate part of the pattern can be varied in color by having the design.
arranged and the cards cut to make the variations without changing the weft or
warp. This cloth in two shuttle work can go up to sixteen picks or more according
to the pattern to be put on the ground part of the cloth.
In making this cloth with a raised figure on both sides the figure yarn is put
into four healds or six healds if to make a twill on the figure, the yarn in these
healds to be on the loose or yielding beam, two healds are for making the figure on.
the back of the cloth and two for the face of the cloth, two or more picks are put
in with the healds changed to make a plain or twill with the jacquard machine up
when the picks are being put in to form the pattern; when the picks are being
put into the back the mounting yarn is raised in the figure part of the cloth so
that it is placed inside the figure of the cloth, which forms a sack; the ground.
part of the cloth can be varied as desired.
With our methods of making this cloth, it is applicable to fine brocade work, by
using a second or loose beam to make the raised or embossed figure. The yarn
from the loose beam is drawn into two or more healds as before, which work a
calico or twill on the figure part of the cloth instead of a floated or loose figure on
the face of the cloth. The ground can be of satin or it can be varied as desired,
the jacquard machine is raised to make the satin on the ground; the mounting
yarn being. done in that part that is to form the figure with the healds, and one
heald is raised with the machine up and one or more picks are put in from
each card. The yarn on the back part of the figure can be loose or woven in as
wanted.
In making this cloth in fine or coarse goods, one, two, four or more picks are
put in with the healds working to form the figures as before stated, and then the

page_text: mounting yarn is raised in the figure part of the cloth, and one two or more picks
are put in, to form a welt on the embossed or figure part of the cloth.
In making this cloth with a raised figure on both sides it can be made with or
without stuffing picks to raise the figure.
Having thus stated the nature of our invention and described the manner in
which the same is to be or may be performed, or carried into practical effect; we
would have it understood that we do not confine ourselves to the precise details
given as the same may be varied or modified without departing from the principle
of our invention, but what we claim and desire to be secured to us by Letters
Patent is;-
The manufacture of the "Excelsior" figured cloth, with fast embossed or raised
figures, with the various methods of picking and drawing in of the ends, made in
broad or narrow looms with one or more shuttles, substantially in the manner
herein described, or any mere modification thereof.
In witness whereof we the said James Kirkman, Robert Smith, and Peter
Entwistle have hereunto set our hands and seals this twenty-sixth day of
January, in the year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred and eighty-
three
JAMES KIRKMAN
(L.S.)
ROBERT SMITH
(L.S.)
PETER ENTWISTLE (LS.)