IMPROVEMENTS IN MANUFACTURE OF ARTICLES OF LADIES' UNDER CLOTHING
Year: 1854

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to James Lord, of Farnworth, in the County of
Lancaster, Manager, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN
MANUFACTURE OF ARTICLES OF LADIES' UNDER CLOTHING."
THE
Sealed the 21st November 1854, and dated the 26th May 1854.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said James Lord at the Office
of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on the 26th May
1854.
I, the said JAMES LORD, of Farnworth, in the County of Lancaster, Manager,
do hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTICLES OF LADIES' UNDER CLOTHING" to be as follows:-
My first improvement consists in a method of producing a "vandyke " pattern
for petticoats and other articles of ladies wearing apparel. In order to effect this,
I weave the fabric intended for the article in any ordinary manner, but during
such operation raise or lower a portion of the warp at intervals, by means of a
jacquard or other suitable apparatus, so as to prevent it from interweaving
with the weft, and by gradually increasing and decreasing the number of warp
threads removed, the "vandyke" effect is produced; the loose threads are
afterwards severed from the fabric.
My second improvement relates to a method of forming a series of open
pipings along a fabric for petticoats. In order to effect this, I arrange the

page_text: warp threads of a loom so as to produce a double cloth at intervals, and unite
the edges by working the two sets together.
My third improvement consists in forming petticoats of a fabric, partly of
fustian, or other such fabric, in stripes or other patches, which portions may
be cut in the ordinary manner of cutting fustians, or may remain as woven.
My fourth improvement consists in a method of producing shapes for
chemises or under shirts with ornamental parts, and consists in so arranging
the shedding of the warp or throwing of the weft, that patterns are produced
in the direction of the shape the article is to assume when made up; or the
shape may be indicated by printing or other such process. I then cut out
the fabric thus produced into a suitable form, and complete it by sewing.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said James Lord in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 25th
November 1854.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JAMES
LORD, of Farnworth, in the County of Lancaster, Manager, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Twenty-sixth day of May, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-four, in the seventeenth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the
said James Lord, Her especial licence that I, the said James Lord, my
executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said James
Lord, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the
term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel
Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANU-
FACTURE OF ARTICLES OF LADIES' UNDER CLOTHING," upon the condition (amongst
others) that I, the said James Lord, by an instrument in writing under my
hand and seal, should particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the
said Invention, and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause
the same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar
months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said James Lord, do hereby declare the.
nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed,

page_text: to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement
and accompanying Drawing, that is to say):-
My first improvement consists in a method of producing a "vandyke "
pattern for petticoats and other articles of ladies' wearing apparel. In order
to effect this, I weave the fabric intended for the article in any ordinary
manner, but during such operation raise or lower a portion of the warp threads
by means of a jacquard or other suitable apparatus, so as to prevent them from
interweaving with the weft, and by gradually increasing and decreasing the
number of threads removed, the desired effect is produced.
In order to explain more fully how this part of my improvements is effected,
I will refer to Figs. 1, 2, 3, of the accompanying diagrams :-
Suppose it is desired to form a petticoat or other garment with an end
resembling the shape shewn at Fig. 1, the warp threads of the fabric while
being woven extending in the direction shewn by the blue and red lines from
A to B. These threads may be opened to form a shed, by tappets or other
ordinary apparatus, arranged according to the description of fabric to be pro-
duced; from B to C the threads are connected to a jacquard, so as to be
operated upon singly, or in other convenient numbers. At the commencement
of weaving, the whole of the warp will work together and produce a piece of
cloth in the ordinary manner; but when the "vandyke" pattern is to com-
mence, then the jacquard will be so pierced as to fail in raising certain of the
threads, and consequently no fabric will be there formed. In Fig. 2 this
operation is supposed to have gone on for a certain time, and a portion of the
pattern is formed, the discontinuation of the red lines denoting the threads
which have not been raised, so as to cause an interweaving with the shuttle;
at the next pick the warp thread 1 will be left at the bottom of the shed, and
after it the next one, and so on until the point 2 is reached, after which the
shed will gradually increase in width until the other anglo of the pattern has
been formed.
I have spoken of the change as taking place one thread at a time, but it
will be obvious that two or more may be connected to a hook of the jacquard.
I have also stated that the threads which are to fail in being interwoven are
allowed to remain at the bottom of the shed, and such would be the case in
ordinary weaving with a jacquard, in which the warp is kept down by weights
and raised to form the shed; but by modifications of fancy weaving, machinery
well known, or which will readily suggest themselves to competent persons, the
threads not intended to be used may be carried up beyond the shed. The
pattern shewn by the diagram is continuous; but by suitably piercing the cards,
or arranging the equivalent apparatus used, it will be evident that the pattern

page_text: may be irregular, and also that instead of the sharp angular design, a wavy
edge, as at Fig. 8, or other zigzag form, may be obtained. When the fabric
is removed from the loom, the loose warp threads which pass over the inden-
tations and which are woven may be cut away.
My second improvement relates to a method of forming a series of open
pipings along a fabric for petticoats. In order to effect this, I arrange the
warp threads of a loom so as to produce double cloth at intervals, and unite
the edges thereof by working the two sets together. The diagram, Fig. 4, repre-
sents the sectional view of a piece of cloth so woven: the blue lines represent a
portion of the warp threads, to which suitable shedding is imparted by any
ordinary method for producing single cloth; the red lines represent intervening
portions of the warp, which are so arranged as to produce double cloth, and
which therefore are provided with another shedding motion by means of shafts
and tappets, a jacquard, or other known apparatus. By this method, therefore,
open pipings will be produced, as represented at a, b, c, in the diagram. In
order to give the double parts of the cloth a fullness, I sometimes introduce
extra threads within them, as shewn at b; these threads are not interwoven
with the warp, but proceed with them through the reed; they may be wound
upon the warp beam, or upon an extra roller or rollers, as may be desired.
My third improvement consists in forming petticoats of a fabric partly of
fustian, or other such fabric, and partly of calico, or other material of that
description. To accomplish this, I cause one part of the warp threads to be
shed for the calico, &c., and impart a different shedding motion to other parts
thereof, so as to produce the fustian or other floated cloth; this may be
arranged so as to weave stripes or other detached portions, and the floated
threads may be cut or remain as woven.
My fourth improvement consists in a method of obtaining shapes for chemises
or under shirts with ornamental parts, and consists in in so arranging the
shedding of the warp or throwing of the weft, that patterns are produced in the
direction of the shape the article is to assume when made up; or I indicate
the shape upon plain cloth by printing.
In the diagram, Fig. 5, the red lines shew the warp threads constituting a
piece of woven cloth, and the figured pattern the outline of the sides of a
chemise woven by the aid of a jacquard or other ordinary apparatus; any con-
venient number of these may be woven in a warp, and the shapes subsequently
cut out according to the dotted lines. I have shown the pattern as extending
along the sides only, but, if desired, a sufficient number of hooks may be
employed in a jacquard to carry it around the intended shape; it will be
evident, that instead of using the warp threads in the direction shewn, they

page_text: may extend across the shape, if desired, and that in addition to the pattern
shewn, two other portions thereof may extend along the dotted lines a, b, c, d,
to indicate the incision for the front or back lap. The first part of my Inven-
tion may be combined, if desired, with this portion thereof, and a "vandyke "
or other such bottom part produced.
Having thus described and ascertained the nature of my said Invention,
and the manner in which the same is to be performed, I desire it to be
understood that I claim as secured to me,―
Firstly, as applied to articles of ladies' under clothing, the production of
vandyke," scolloped, or other such edges, by causing a portion of the warp
threads to fail in being interwoven with the weft.
Secondly, as applied to fabrics for petticoats, the production of open parts or
pipings by weaving double cloth at intervals.
Thirdly, as applied to fabrics for petticoats, the weaving of stripes or other
patches, so as to produce at those parts a fustian, or other such fabric, whether
the same be subsequently cut or remain as woven.
Fourthly, as applied to chemises or under shirts, the application to a fabric
of ornamental parts which indicate the shape or a portion thereof to be cut
out, whether such ornamental parts be obtained by weaving or printing.
In witness whereof, I, the said James Lord, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, the Twenty-fourth day of November, in the year of our
Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-four.
JAMES LORD. (L.S.)

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