Improvements in Adjustable and Collapsable Dress Stands.
Year: 1888

page_text: Date of Application, 29th Mar., 1888
Complete Specification Left, 29th Jan., 1889
Complete Specification Accepted, 2nd Mar., 1889
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Adjustable and Collapsable Dress Stands.
I ALICE GEMS wife of Julius F. Gems of 14 Acacia Grove, West Dulwich in the
County of Surrey do hereby declare the nature of this my invention for ExPANDING
BUSTS, FORMS, DRESS-STANDS OR HOLDERS OF WEARING APPAREL to be as
follows:-
Busts hitherto made in sections have had more or less complicated actions for
expanding and have not been made convertible into small compass nor with the
length of waist adjustable to any desired size. The object of this my Invention is
therefore for improved expanding, adjustable & collapsable Dress stands, forms, busts
or Holders of wearing apparel in vertical sections so as to expand by simple
mechanical contrivances to a large or small circumferance, also to pack in small
space for storing, travelling and shipping purposes.
For these purposes I make the outer portion of form or bust of fibrous pulp
covered or uncovered in two, three or more vertical sections and preferably hollow
inside. When the form or bust is made in two three or four sections I divide the
bust by cutting or partially cutting down the centre of back and front from neck to
waist or to several inches below waist or I divide or partially divide the bust down
each side through shoulders, arms, and under arms from neck to waist or several
inches below waist. These divided portions of the bust are fixed or hinged at their
upper ends to a piece of circular turned wood, or the upper part of neck may be fixed
or hinged to other suitable substance thus allowing the divided portions of form or
bust to expand or open where divided. To expand these sections I employ simple
mechanical contrivances such as springs, double locking plates, locking slides, or by
means of attaching stretchers fixed or hinged to the inside of these sections, the
reverse ends of these stretchers pointing to the centre of the inside of bust and
attached to a notched ferrule this ferrule may have a nut through which a revolving
screw passes from neck to waist or several inches below waist so that by revolving
the screw the sections will open and close; or I preferably expand the sections of
bust by passing a wood screw from neck to waist or several inches below waist

page_text: inside, to which I attach a nutted cone suitably shaped, and fix pieces of shaped
wood or other suitable substance to the inner sides of the sections so that by revolving
the screw,
the cone presses against the shaped pieces of wood or other substance
fixed to the inner sides and thus forcing or expanding the sections. For the purpose
of revolving these screws I attach a knob on top This expanding form or bust from
neck to waist or several inches below waist can be attached to any of the skirts
described in my Patents numbered 16,567 and 15,5467 Or when my improved
expanding bust is made from neck to waist only, I make the waist extra long and
construct a skirt of wire or fibrous pulp so as to allow the extra length of waist to
slide or adjust to different lengths from neck to waist, this skirt having an expanding
waist and hips, the length from neck to waist is made adjustable by means of an
adjustable standard or upright or by attaching a sliding piece to the revolving screw
or by other suitable means for adjusting the desired length from neck to waist.
Dated th: 0011
Mak 1000

page_text: I ALICE GEMS wife of Julius Frederick Gems of Boswell Court South Croydon in
the County of Surrey do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement :-
Adjustable busts hitherto made have not been formed of vertically divided sections
of fibrous pulp continuous from neck to several inches below waist to telescope or
collapse or from neck to waist & the length of waist adjustable & to telescope or
collapse neither have adjustable busts been made with seperate adjustments for bust &
waist, the hips, or circumference immediately below waist & the lower part of
skirt.
The object of this my Invention is to construct busts or dress stands of papier mache
or fibrous pulp vertically divided but continuous from neck to waist or from neck to
several inches below waist & for employing simple means to expand & adjust the said
sections also for constructing, the lower or skirt portion attachable to the sections so.
that the skirt will expand, compress, collapse, or telescope in a vertical or horizontal
position that when complete the whole form may easily be expanded or compressed to
a large or small circumference also collapse into a small space for convenience in
travelling, storing, shipping, or other purposes.
For these purposes I make the outer surface or form of papier mache or fibrous
pulp covered or uncovered, vertically divided but continuous from neck to waist or from
neck to several inches below waist the lower or skirt portion of fibrous pulp or wire
or a combination of both.
When I make the upper or body part of papier mache or fibrous pulp from neck to
several inches below waist, the shell or outer surface is first formed in the usual
manner in which busts are made (i.e.) on a block suitably shaped, I then divide or
partially divide the said shell into two, three, four or more vertical sections or segments
preferably four, as shown in Fig. 1. by cutting down the centre of the front also the
back from neck to several inches below waist & down each side by cutting through
the shoulders, arm pits, & under arm from neck to several inches below waist & I
preferably pad & cover the sections with a suitable material; these sections are then
fixed or attached to a neck piece of turned wood suitably shaped as shown at (A')
& made flexable at the lower extremity of neck by means of strips of linen, leather or
other suitable material which is fixed to the neck piece & attached to the upper ends
of each section so as to allow the sections to hang easily & be extended at will.
order to support the said sections which compose the body & hips of the Form or
Bust I employ an upright arm standard or support made in several pieces & fitted
together by screw joints the upper portion being formed into a screw E' which is
pivoted at G allowing the screw to revolve independently of the remaining portion
pivoted G¹ a
of support thus forming a revolving joint. At the point where screw
circular platter is attached in order to keep the waist portion of the vertically divided
sections in position & of a circular shape. From the platter the screw extends upwards
terminating within some 4 to 6 inches of the top shown at B' where it is left quite
plain & slightly smaller than the screw the worm being raised above the plain
In

page_text: portion; the worm acts as a ledge or rest on which the small collar as shown
at D revolves. This collar further serves as a ledge for carrying the neck piece A¹
which is bored through the centre so as to allow the plain piece B' on top of
screw to pass through & protrude above the neck A¹. To the protruding end of
screw I fix a knob F¹ serving as an ornament & for revolving the screw on
the screw joint or pivot G₁ so that the neck piece with the vertically divided sections
attached may be kept stationary resting on the collar D¹. To expand & adjust the
said vertically divided sections I employ a nutted cone suitably shaped as shown
at H which is made to pass up & down the screw so that by turning the knob F¹
to the left the cone is forced down towards the platter, or turning to the right
the cone is passed up towards the collar D' the said cone may be guided by an iron
rod passing through a hole bored in the cone & fixed to the wood platter; the inner
sides of each section are fitted with pieces of shaped wood fixed immediately below
the breast & above waist as shown at I, & which are shaped to correspond with the
sides of the cone so that when the cone passes down it presses against the said pieces
of wood I expanding or forcing the sections apart. To keep the sections together
at waist I employ an elastic band K¹ which keeps the waist in shape & serves to
compress or force the sections into their normal position; the waist may also
be encircled by a measuring tape. It will be seen that when the sections are expanded
or forced apart, vacant spaces or gaps appear, I therefore fix strips of fibrous pulp
or other material suitably shaped to the inner sides of each section as shown in Fig. 5.
by gluing, riveting, eyeleting, or by other means, these false pieces A & B may also
be kept in position by means of a measuring tape, waistband, or an elastic band, or by
small strips of elastic being fixed to the dividing sections. To the lower ends of each
section pieces of shaped wood are fixed as shown at J¹ in order to keep them in
proper shape; for expanding & adjusting the lower portions of each section seperately
which I prefer to call the hips, four pairs of wire slides L' are used, so bent & knuckled
over each other that by means of a pair of washers encircling slides they can be fixed
or locked at any given position by forcing one washer to the right the other to the
left, the outer ends of each slide being riveted to the lower or hip portion U¹ of each
section shown at M¹ see also Fig. 6 where the double slides are shown & more
particularly described hereafter. I make the lower or skirt portion of this my Invention
preferably of wire & divide into vertical sections to correspond with the fibrous pulp
sections, attaching each one to the pieces of shaped wood J' fixed to the hip portion
these attachments are made by means of small wire loops N¹ which are screwed or
fixed to the pieces of shaped wood the loops first encircling the upright wires shown
at Owhich passes from top to bottom of the lower or wire sections so that the upper
sections or body part will telescope inside the lower or wire sections by means of
the small loops travelling down the wire slides O'.
The wire or skirt portion is made adjustable by means of the slides L'attached to the
hip portion of upper sections which acts upon the upper portion of wire skirt, the
skirt having another set of four slides attached to the bottom ends of each section
of skirt & shown at P¹ so that the bust & waist is expanded by the cone, the
hips & lower part of skirt having seperate actions for adjusting the desired size;
to facilitate the bust or form being converted into a small space the central arm or
pillar is divided into three pieces as shown at Q, R & S so that by unscrewing
at Q the outer form or bust can be removed from the remainder of the pillar when
the upper part will instantly telescope or collapse inside the lower, the loops
travelling down the wire slides 0¹ as above described, the remaining joint of pillar
is unscrewed at R' at S¹ an iron rod is fixed to the upper piece, entering the lower
portion above the thumb screw T', & forms the means for adjusting the whole form
any desired height; the thumb screw being released the piece with iron rod can
be removed so that the whole can be packed in the small space of about 28 inches in
height as shown in Fig. 4. Fig. 2. is a front view of the bust or form as above
described but showing the vertically divided sections closer together than in Fig. 1.
the knob on top F having been rotated several times to the right forces the cone H2
upwards on the screw E' allowing the elastic waistband K to force the pieces of

page_text: shaped wood I towards the lower or thinner part of the said cone, each section
closing towards the central arm or pillar. In Fig. 2. the shoulders are more distinctly
shown where they are joined together at B' by means of an elastic lace passing
through the eyelets let in to the jointing sections of the shoulder & shown
at (
A front view of the vertically divided sections is afforded in Fig. 2 showing the
right M & left N front sections made continuous from neck to several inches
below waist & the lower or skirt portion vertically divided & joined to the hip
portion by means of wire loops, right V* left W & the right front section of skirt O
left at P At Q the double locking slide is shown for adjusting the right &
left front sections the said slides being riveted at U X' showing the slides on which
the loops V & W2 travel from top to bottom of skirt.
When I make my improved adjustable & collapseable Bust or Dress stand without
using the screw & cone as above described I employ other suitable means for
adjusting same but adhere to the construction of the outer form or bust by making
the sections continuous from neck to waist or several inches below waist vertically
divided preferably into four sections made of papier mache or fibrous pulp with wire
skirt a side view of which is more particularly shown in Fig. 7. & a front view with
the lower or skirt portions also vertically divided into four sections as shown in Fig. 9.
the said sections may be made adjustable by employing a cog wheel at waist fixed to
an iron rod pivoted to the central arm or support at or below the waist, the said rod
extending through the neck under which a collar is attached to support the neck the
rod protruding above where a knob is fixed for revolving the said rod, or a handle may
be substituted & to the waist part of each section cogged bars are attached resting on
the platters, these bars are made to engage with the cog wheel or wheels by acting in
slots or staples two of which are guided upon wedged shaped rests or an extra platter
allowing the bar to overlap & pass the others so that by revolving the knob on top
the cogged wheel or wheels engages with the cogged bars as shown in Fig. 8. &
the sections are thus expanded & adjusted to the required proportions; Or the said
sections may be made adjustable by means of springs being fixed to the inner sides of
the dividing sections & a notched or toothed plate working in a slot so that by
adjusting the teeth of the said plates the sections are expanded or compressed to any
desired size, or I adjust the said sections by means of attaching stretchers to the inner
sides of each section which are hinged at the said attachments the reverse ends being
fitted to a notched ferrule having a nut through which a revolving screw is passed
protruding above the neck where I fix a small handle that by turning same the screw
is revolved on a pivot attached to the central arm or pillar so that the nutted ferrule
is forced up & down the said screw by simply turning the small handle thus forcing
each section from the centre expanding or compressing to any desired size or I
expand & adjust the said sections by attaching toothed ratchets to the inner sides
of each section at waist or a few inches below waist which are guided & act in a
slot attached to the wood platter at waist or to slots formed in a wire cage attached
to the central pillar or support the said cage being fixed above the waist or below
waist as shown in Fig. 5. A' & the said ratchets B³.
Another method of adjusting the said sections is by employing four sets of double
slides at the breast portion of body also at waist, hips & bottom of skirt as described
in Fig. 1.
The said slides being an important feature of this my Invention I illustrate same
in Fig. 6. which shows two parallel wires the outer ends being knuckled over two
pieces of wire A B, & the inner ends bent & knuckled to overlap each other with
the two washers in the centre the right. hand washer C showing the slides when
released & the left hand washer A being drawn towards the knuckle wedging or
griping the slides in position.
Other means may be employed for adjusting telescoping or collapsing the said
vertically divided sections made continuous from neck to several inches below waist
of papier mache or fibrous pulp with wire skirt without departing from the object of
this my Invention.
لله

page_text: When I make my improved adjustable dress-stands or forms as above described
but from neck to waist only, I preferably make the waist portion extra long as shown
in Fig. 3 at A³ this is made in order that the length from neck to waist
may be made adjustable to what is understood as long or short waist, I
preferably adjust the length of waist by means of an iron rod shown in
Fig. 3 at L which is fixed into the central arm or waist piece & the rod pointing
downward is passed into the tube or standard N at the upper end of which a screw
collar is fixed with a thumb screw M³ so that by raising or lowering the iron rod in
the tube & turning the thumb screw, the length of waist can be adjusted as desired,
the extra length passing inside the waist skirt part for a short waist, or may be
raised up as far as the waist-band of body part which I preferably make of elastic,
the waist-band K³ of skirt being composed of a measuring tape or elastic.
The means used for expanding the said body may consist of a cone & screw as
shown & described in Figs. 1 & 2 & shown in Fig. 3. or by any of the means described
herein & shown in the several drawings illustrating this my Invention.
The skirt portion I preferably make of pairs of upright wires jointed together at
the bottom or of a long continuous piece of wire bent square or round about every
30 inches more or less until a circular cage or skirt form is constructed the two
ends meeting are joined ; the upper forming the waist as shown in Fig. 3.
About an inch from waist I employ small pieces of wire which are knuckled over
each pair of the uprights, other similar pieces of wire are employed about an
inch from the bottom also several inches from the bottom & several inches
below waist one of these being shown at S³ the small pieces of wire also
forms a hinge on which the stretchers R³ are fixed the said stretchers pointing
upward where they are attached to a notched ferrule 0³ immediately above which
I fix a plate extending slightly beyond on one side P³ this plate or collar being used
on which to revolve a rod with screw or worm formed about midway & extending to
the bottom, a small handle Q³ being fixed on top; the lower stretchers extend down-
wards towards the tubo or standard & are attached to another notched ferrule Y* but
preferably longer having a slot I³ into which the stretcher that is hinged to the outer
pair of upright wires S S is fitted, the lower end being burred or forked so as to
work in the said slot I giving the pair of upright wires S S an independent action
so that when the stretcher runs to bottom of slot the formation-of front part of skirt
will represent the natural flatness of the human form.
To the said notched ferrule Y³ which runs loose on the standard I fix another collar
or plate W which is tapped, or I fix a screw nut through which the long screw
passes so that by rotating the handle Q which is made a fixture to the standard the
whole skirt can be expanded or adjusted to any desired circumference, or by the
ferrule Y being forced to its lowest extremity the whole skirt form can be made to
collapse like a closed umbrella.
The skirt forms described & shown in my patent No. 15546 may be adapted to
the body part above described & shown in Fig. 3 of this my Invention.
The necks or neck pieces of my improved adjustable busts are preferably made as
described & shown herein, but I may make the necks or neck pieces also expanding
& adjustable by dividing or partially dividing into four sections running in grooves
or slides or made by other means expanding or adjustable with the fibrous pulp
sections attached.
Having now particularly described & ascertained the nature of my said
Invention & in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I
claim is
1st. The improved construction of adjustable & collapseable dress stands or forms
of papier mache or fibrous pulp substantially as described.
2nd. The improved construction of adjustable & collapseable busts or forms in
vertically divided sections continuous from neck to several inches below waist of
fibrous pulp with adjustable wire skirt also vertically divided, into which fibrous pulp
sections will telescope or collapse.

page_text: 3rd. Adjustable busts or dress forms vertically divided into sections continuous
from neck to several inches below waist with wire skirt also vertically divided into
sections with separate means of adjustment at bust & waist, the hips, & skirt.
4th. False pieces or strips of fibrous pulp for filling up vacancies or gaps formed
between the dividing sections of adjustable busts or dress-forms.
5th. Cones on revolving screws for expanding or extending adjustable busts or
dress-forms.
6th. Cogged wheels & cogged bars or strips for expanding or extending adjustable
busts or dress-forms.
7th. Double wire slides knuckled over each other with washers or other similar
means of adjustment for jointing or adjusting the vertically divided sections of
adjustable busts or dress forms, substantially as shown in Fig. 6 & described
herein.
8th. Umbrella or similar stretchers attached to the inner sides of the vertically
divided sections & hinged or jointed to collars or ferrules as applied to expanding &
adjustable busts or dress-forms.
9th. Busts or bodies made adjustable from neck to waist substantially as described
& shown in Fig. 3.
10th. The construction of circular platters at waist for keeping vertically divided
sections in proper shape & positions & elastic bands at or near the waist of adjustable
busts or dress forms.
11th. Elastic laces or attachments for jointing the shoulders of adjustable busts or
dress forms.
12th. Improved supports, central arms or Standards pivoted or jointed above or
below waist for the purpose of revolving the upper portion independent of the lower
as applied to my adjustable busts or dress forms.
13th. Supports or Standards made with several screw joints for convenience in
packing as applied to adjustable busts or dress forms.
14th. Wire skirts vertically divided into sections as applied to adjustable busts or
dress forms substantially as described.
15th. Springs & notched or toothed plates or strips, working in slots for adjusting
vertically divided sections of adjustable busts or dress forms substantially as
described.
.
16th. Upright slides fitted to wire skirts or lower portions of adjustable busts or
dress forms on which the upper or body portion will travel down telescope or
collapse.
17th. Adjustable skirts or dress forms with a thumb screw attachment fixed to the
upper end of standard or support for adjusting the length of body from neck
to waist.
18th. Adjustable skirt or dress forms with screw attached to upper end of standard
at waist & extending to lower ferrule or collar for adjusting & closing skirt or dress
forms substantially as described & shown in Fig. 3.
19th. Sliding neck pieces made in sections to which vertically divided sections
may be attached substantially as described.
Dated this 28th day of January 1889.