IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF LACE IN TWIST LACE MACHINERY AND IN APPARATUS EMPLOYED THEREIN PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION
Year: 1883

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to George Bentley of Gamble Street in the Town and
County of the Town of Nottingham Mechanic in the employment of Edward
Elsey of the said Nottingham Laco Manufacturer for an Invention of
IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF LACE IN TWIST LACE MACHINERY
AND IN APPARATUS EMPLOYED THEREIN
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said George Bentley at the
Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 12th February 1883.
GEORGE BENTLEY of Gamble Street in the Town and County of the Town of
Nottingham Mechanic in the employment of Edward Elsey of the said Nottingham
Lace Manufacturer. "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF LACE IN TWIST
LACE MACHINERY AND IN APPARATUS EMPLOYED THEREIN."
The improvements relate to the manufacture of what is known in the Lace trade
as "Imitation Swiss Lace "
Also to the manufacture of such Swiss Lace with different colored effects
thereon
Also to the manufacture of what is known in the Lace trade as "Combination
Net" or "Lace."
Also to the manufacture of "Combination Swiss Net" or "Lace" by a new
method of drafting the same in five different colors
Also to the manufacture of "combination throw thread lace."
Also to a method of producing what is called in the Lace trade "All three gait
combination Net."
And also what is known in the Lace trade as "All two or three gait net" in
bands, at the same time, with "combination" or ordinary work as required, and
to working colors in the same.
In carrying out my improvements in the manufacture of "Imitation Swiss Lace "
I employ the ordinary jacquard with one needle to each lifting string and one
string to each jack, but I obtain facility for operating the lift bars different heights
by cam and tappets cut to the required forms.
In carrying out my Improvements in the manufacture of "Swiss Lace
I employ.
"
3 full guide bars vis two spool bars and one warp bar, one of the spool bars
being supplied with thicker thread than the other or otherwise if required I
traverse the warp bar one gait only, one spool bar is supplied with fine Cotton and
it traverses two or more gaits, the other spool bar with thicker cotton and it
traverses 3 or more gaite.-The jack comb bar traverses one gait each motion.
FD71

page_text: But I do not confine myself to these differences of thickness of cotton They may be
of the same fine or coarse quality to each bar
The jacquard is worked every motion, or double action time, and the lift is
worked by a cam cut to suit its action
I use two colors for the drafting of the pattern, say, red for the thick spool
thread, and green for the fine spool thread.
If I choose to have colored cotton in the thick thread guide bar the color of the
net would be the same on either side, but if I choose to have the fine thread
traverse with the thick thread, so as to thicken the opaque work I can do so by
using another color in drafting, and the order of them will be selected by the
"reader"
For "combination lace" with the double tie, and ordinary jacquard, that is,
with one needle to a string and one string to a jack, I take the fine spool threads
out of their bar and transfer the warp threads thereto or I may take the warp
threads away and leave the spool threads as they are The action of the guide
bars, jack bars, and lifting cam, with the drafting remain, as in producing the
"imitation Swiss Net"
--For-the-combination "Swiss" net I employ two similar, ordinary jacquards, one
working every motion, the other every alternato motion. The lifting cam in both
cases being shaped to the action required, and I use three full guide bars, two
spool bars and one warp bar, the spool bars traversing two or more gaits and the
warp bar traversing one or more gaits.
For the drafting, I employ, say: five colors as Red, Green, Blue, Yellow, and
Brown. When it is required that the thick, and fine, spool threads form the
cloth, or opaque, work, red, say: is used; and when the thick spool thread only is
required for the cloth, or opaque work, yellow is used-When it is required that
the fine spool thread only should traverse across the wale, green is used, and when
it is required that the thick spool thread should tie in across the wale, with the
warp thread, blue is used, and when it is required that the warp_thread_alone
should cross the wale Brown is used I do not confine myself to the above as the
drafting may be separate for each jacquard employed in the manufacture of these
fabrics and I do not confine myself to one draft as two or other number may be
employed.
In making "combination throw thread" lace I employ, in addition to two full
guide bars which traverse two or more gaita at each motion, two extra guide bars,
which are threaded every third gait where required and traverse one or more gaits
at each motion and are worked by jacquard or by cuts of wheels as desired.
"
For the production of "all three gait combination net with the warp bar
traversing two gaits only, and two jacquards with alternate motions lifting with
ordinary excentric cams or cut cams.
Two full guide bars are used, the thick threads of the one bar are supplied from
spools and the fine or warp threads of the other are supplied from spools, or a
beam, and I employ, say; three colors in drafting, one for the spool threads,
another for the warp threads, and another for both.
For "all three gait combination net," with two full guide bars and threads one
of them will be supplied with thick cotton from the spools and the other by fine
cotton from spool or beam each bar traversing three or more gaits. I use two
ordinary jacquards with two strings to each jack. The lifting camis to both the
jacquards are shaped to the action required.
For "colored bands in all two or three gait" two spool bars and one warp bar
are used. The spool bars traverse three or more gaits and the warp bar one gait,
one spool bar is supplied with colored cotton in every or every other guide and the
other guide bar is supplied with bleached or unbleached cotton or dyed, or other
cotton, of the same or other number or thickness in every, or every other, guide-
The warp bar is supplied with threads for as many pillars as required.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed
by the said George Bentley in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 8th August
1883.
GEORGE BENTLEY of Gamble Street in the Town and County of the Town of
Nottingham Mechanic in the employment of Edward Elsey of the said Nottingham
Lace Manufacturer. " IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF LACE IN TWIST
LACE MACHINERY AND IN APPARATUS EMPLOYED THEREIN."
The improvements relate to the manufacture of what is known in the Lace
trade as "Imitation Swiss Lace"
Also to the manufacture of such "Imitation Swiss Lace" with different colored
effects thereon
Also to the manufacture of what is known in the Lace trade as "Combination
Net" or "Lace"
Also to the manufacture of "Combination Swiss Net or Lace" by a new method
of drafting the same in five different colors.
Also to the manufacture of "Combination throw thread lace"
Also to a method of producing what is called in the Lace trade "All three gait
Combination Net"
And also what is known in the Lace trade as "All two or three gait net" in
bands at the same time with combination or ordinary work as required and to
working colors in the same
In carrying out my improvements, in the manufacture of "Imitation Swiss
Lace," I employ the ordinary jacquard, with one needle to each lifting string, and
one string to each jack, but I obtain facility for operating the lift bars different
heights by cam and tappets cut to the required forms.
In carrying out my Improvements in the manufacture of " Imitation Swiss
Lace" I employ
Three full guide bars, namely two spool bars, and one warp bar, one of the
spool bars being supplied with thicker thread than the other or otherwise if
required.
I traverse the warp bar one gait only, one spool bar is supplied with fine cotton,
and it traverses two or more gaits, the other spool bar with thicker cotton, and it
traverses three or more gaita
The jack comb bar traverses one gait each motion. But I do not confine myself
to these differences of thickness of cotton. They may be of the same fine or
coarse quality to each bar.
The jacquard is worked every motion, or double action time, and the lift is
worked by a cam cut to suit its action.
I use two colors for the drafting of the pattern, say, red for the thick spool
thread, and green for the fine spool thread
If I choose to have colored cotton in the thick thread guide bar, the color of the
net would be the same on either side, but if I choose to have the fine thread
traverse with the thick thread, so as to thicken the opaque work, I can do so by
using another color in drafting and the order of them will be selected by the
"reader."
For Combination lace" with the double tie and ordinary jacquard, that is with
one needle to a string and one string to a jack, I take the fine spool threads out of
their bar and transfer the warp threads thereto or I may take the warp threads
away and leave the spool threads as they are. The action of the guide bars, jack

page_text: bars, and lifting cam, with the drafting, remain as in producing the "Imitation
Swiss Net."
For the "Combination Swiss Net" I employ two similar, ordinary jacquards,
one working every motion, the other every alternate motion. The lifting cam, in
both cases, being shaped to the action required and I use three full guide bars, two
spool bars, and one warp bar, the spool bars traversing two or more gaits, and the
warp bar traversing one or more gaits.
For the drafting, I employ say five colors, as Red, Green, Blue, Yellow and
Brown. When it is required that the thick and fine spool threads form the cloth
or opaque work; red (say) is used, and when the thick spool thread only is
required for the cloth or opaque work, yellow is used. When it is required that
the fine spool thread only should traverse across the wale, green is used, and when
it is required that the thick spool thread should tie in across the wale, with the
warp thread, blue is used. And when it is required that the warp thread alone
should cross the wale, brown is used. I do not confine myself to the above as the
drafting may be separate for each jacquard employed in the manufacture of these
fabrics and I do not confine myself to one draft as two or other number may be
--employed.
In making "Combination throw thread" lace I employ in addition to two full
guide bars which traverse two or more gaits at each motion, two extra-guide-bars,
which are threaded every third gait whero required, and traverse one or more
gaits, at each motion, and are worked by jacquard or by cuts of wheels as
desired
For the production of "All three gait Combination" net with the warp bar
traversing two gaits only, and two jacquards with alternate motions lifting with
ordinary excentric cams or cut cams.
Two full guide bars are used the thick threads of the one bar are supplied from
spools, and the fine _or_warp_threads of the other are supplied from spools, or a
beam, and I employ, say, three colors in drafting, one for the spool threads, another
for the warp threads, and another for both.
For all three gait combination net" with two full guide bars and threads, one
of them will be supplied with thick cotton from the spools, and the other by fine
cotton from spool or beam, each bar traversing three or more gaits I use two
ordinary jacquards, with two strings to each jack. The lifting cams to both the
jacquards are shaped to the action required.
For "Colored bands in all two or three gait" two spool bars and one warp bar
are used. The spool bars traverse three or more gaits and the warp bar one gait,
one spool bar is supplied with colored cotton in every or every other guide and the
other guide bar is supplied with bleached or unbleached cotton, of the same or
other number or thickness in every or every other guide. The warp bar is
supplied with threads for as many pillars as required.
But that the invention may be the better understood I will
to describe the same.
proceed more fully
In making the "Imitation Swiss Net" I employ three full guide bars, namely
two spool bars and one warp bar.
The spool bars are supplied with threads from spools, one bar being supplied
with thicker cotton than the other. The other guide bar being supplied with
threads from a beam, I traverse the warp bar one gait only and this say is the
No 1. bar. The spool bar which is supplied with fine cotton is the N° 2 bar and
the spool bar which is supplied with the thicker cotton and traverses three or more
gaits is the N° 3 bar. The tric bar or jack comb bar, traverses one gait each
motion in the direction of the length of the Machine and is worked by a wheel
cut for that purpose. The warp bar is worked by a wheel cut to rise one gait in
one motion and fall one gait on the next motion. The N° 2 bar is worked by a
wheel cut to rise and fall two gaits each motion. And the N° 3 bar is worked by
a wheel cut to suit its motions. The jacks, or selectors, are pressed in and out of
the threads, by the usual cut cam. The jacquard is worked every motion, or

page_text: double action time and the lift is worked by a cam cut to suit its action, as stated
and shown on drawing Figure 2. I color the drafting for the patterns in two
colors, say red for the thick thread spool bar, and green for the fine thread
spool bar.
In working according to my improvements when the Carriages have passed into
the back combs, and are just clear of the threads and the jacquard lift has lifted
the selected hooks, left by the perforated card by the means of the highest part of
the jacquard lifting cam, or tappet Figure 2 rise N° 1. (which holds the jacks, or
selectors, clear of all the threads and keeps them in that position until tho
Carriages have entered between the threads of the N° 3 guide bar.) the jacks then
rise one gait, the N° 3 guide bar rises one or more gaits, the N° 2 guide bar rises
two gaits, and the N° 1 guide bar rises one gait. The unselected jacks are then
pressed through the threads, by the action of the jack cams acting upon the jack
bar in the usual way, the N° 3 guide bar then again rises one or more gaits as
required, the carriages then enter the threads, and as soon as they have entered
between the threads of the N° 3, guide bar that guide bar falls within one gait of
the deadstop then the selected jacks enter the threads by the means of the
jacquard lift falling (Fall N° 1) to be in time to lift the selected hooks, left by the
perforated cards, and to lift the jacks just clear of the fine spool threads (Rise N° 2)
but not clear of tho thick spool threads this is caused by the jacquard lift now
resting upon the lowest tappet of the lifting cam, and when the carriages have
passed into the front combs, the jacks and guide bars fall onto the deadstop-The
carriages then pass through the threads into the back combs, and the jacquard
lift falls (Fall N° 2) to be in time to lift the selected hooks, left by the perforated
card and to lift the jacks clear of the threads and when the carriages have passed
into the back combs and have cleared the guide bar threads, the whole of the
jacks leave the guide bar threads by the action of the jack cans acting upon the
jack bar in the usual way and the motions are repeated By this method it will
be perceived that the fine thread does not traverse when the thick thread does, so
that, if I choose to have colored cotton in either of the spool guide bars, the color
would be the same on either side. But if I choose to have the fine thread traverse
with the thick thread so as to thicken the opaque or cloth work, I can do so by
using another color in drafting say blue, which color can be picked up by the
"Reader" on both motions and punched on both Cards.
When using two colors the " Reader" picks up the red to be punched on the
No. 1 Card and the Greens to be punched on the second or N° 1 x Card or he may
pick up both colors to be punched on the second or N° 1 x Card
When using three colors, the red and blue for the first Card and the blue and
green for the second Card or N° 1 x Card
In describing the manuer of making the above "Imitation Swiss Net " I would
have it understood that I do not confine myself to employing thicker cotton in one
guide bar than in another but may have the same number, or thickness in each,
or otherwise. Nor do I confine myself to act upon the guide bar threads only
when the Carriages are in the position as described, but may reverse the actions of
the guide bars when the Carriages are in the back combs to the actions when they
are in the front combs.
To make "Combination lace" with the "double tie" and with the ordinary
jacquard, that is with one needle to a string, and one string to a jack, all that is
necessary is to take the fine spool threads out of the N° 2 bar and transfer the
warp threads from the N° 1 bar and enter them into the N° 2 bar or I may take
the threads of the N° 1 bar entirely away and leave the N° 2 guide bar as before,
that is supplied with threads from spools and by disconnecting (what is known in
the Curtain trade) the feeder or nipper which the threads of that N° 2 bar pass
through, and putting it into position to weight the threads, and so do away with
the threads supplied from a beam. The action of the guide bars N** 2 and 3 jack
bar and lifting cam is the same as is used in making the above "Imitation Swiss
Net," and the drafting is the same.

page_text: In the manufacture of "Combination Swiss Net" I employ two ordinary and
similar jacquards, one working every motion and the other every alternate motion.
Both jacquard lifting cams to be shaped to give the proper actions to the lifts as
follows:
:
The jacquard working every motion I will call N° 1 and the other No 2. The
cam for working the lift of the N° 1 jacquard is similar to the cam above described,
namely with two tappets of different heights Figure 2 and the cam for working
the No 2 jacquard has one tappet (Fig 3) to lift the jacks or selectors, clear of the
No 1 and 2 guide bar threads, but not clear of the N° 3 guide bar threads.
When the Carriages have passed into the back combs, and have just cleared the
threads, the jacks rise one gait, the N° 3 or thick thread spool bar rises two or
more gaits, the N° 2 or fine thread spool bar rises two gaits, and the warp bar
rises one gait. (In making this Net, I work the warp bar or N° 1 between the
spool bars, by this means I am enabled to work the threads much closer together)
The jack bar then presses the unselected jacks through the threads by means of
the cam for that purpose the N° 1 jacquard keeping the selected jacks out of
threads by means of the lift (Figure 2 Rise N° 1) lifting the selected hooks left by
the perforated card, the No 3 spool bar then rises one, or more gaits, the carriages
then pass into the threads, and as soon as the front tail of the carriage has entered
between the threads of the N°3 spool bar, that bar falls within one gait of the
deadstop, the N° 1 jacquard lift then falls (Fall N° 1) to be in time for lifting the
selected hooks left by the perforated card for the second motion, so that the whole
of the jacks are now in the threads, and the carriages pass through into the front
Combs and while-doing-so, the N° 3 spool bar rises one or more gaits so as to gait
or straighten the pillaring threads and the No 2 Jacquard then lifts the selected
jacks clear of the N° 1 or warp bar threads, by means as above described in N° 2
jacquard (Cam Figure 3)-The warp bar then falls one gait, and the N° 2 jacquard
lift then falls, and the whole of the jacks are again in the threads, and the
particular warp threads selected to form the combination ground-drawing_the
pillars together are on the bottom sides of the jack.
Then when the Carriages have passed into the front combs, and have just cleared
the threads, the jacks fall one gait, the spool bars fall onto the deadstop and the
No 1. jacquard lifts the selected jacks just clear of the fine spool threads but not
clear of the thick spool threads (Rise N° 2)-the Carriages then pass into the
back combs the jacks are drawn out clear of the threads and the movements are
repeated.
By this method it will be seen that I can traverse two gaits, the selected warp
threads for forming the Combination ground (viz., to draw the pillars together)
while the warp bar only traverses one gait and by reversing the actions of the
jacquards viz; N° 1 jacquard working alternate motions and by taking away the
lowest lifting tappet of its lifting cam, and by working the N° 2 jacquard every
motion, and working its lift with an eccentric cam, or two tappets of equal heights,
lifting the jacks, or selectors clear of the N° 2 spool bar threads only, and by
traversing that guide bar three or more gaits, on each motion, in the manner well
known by Curtain lace Makers when making double action net, and the warp bar
traversing one gait on each motion, and by traversing the N° 3 spool thread guide
bar three or more gaits in the manner as mentioned or three or more gaits each
motion and working the jacquard lift with the ordinary double tie lifting cam, and
the jacks traversing one gait each motion in the direction of the length of the
machine, and pressed through the guide bar threads every alternate motion in the
usual way I am enabled to make what I call double action" Swiss net. The
drafting is done in three colors viz: when it is required that the thick and fine
spool threads should form the clothing or opaque work, red say, is used-and when
it is required that the fine spool thread should traverse across the wale on both
motions, blue is used, and when it is required that the fine spool thread should
traverse across the wale on one motion only, green is used.
"
And I may by working both jacquards, every other motion, or alternately, and

page_text: working the ltfts with the ordinary double tie lifting cam, or eccentric cam, one
lifting the jacks, or selectors, clear of the threads, and the other lifting the jacks
clear only of the fine spool threads, produce what is known in the Curtain Lace
trade as " Single" or "Double Tie Swiss Net, in the following manner-say
when the Carriages are in the back combs and "Single Tio" Swiss Not is required
to be made, both jacquard lifts may be worked with the eccentric cams.
jacquard lifting the jacks clear of the threads, I will call N° 1. and the jacquard
lifting the jacks clear of the fine spool threads only is N° 2.
The
The three guide bars each rise oue guit, and the lifts of the jacquard having
lifted the selected hooks left by the perforated card to the position as above
described the unselected jacks are then pressed through the threads, by the action
of the jack cam acting upon the jack bar in the usual way, the jacks held back by
the No 1 Jacquard lift are clear of the guide bar threads, and the jacks held back by
the No 2 Jacquard lift are clear of the fine spool threads, but not clear of the thick
spool threads, the spool thread guide bars then rise one two or more gaits as
required, and the carriages then pass into the front combs, and the jacks are drawn
clear of the threads by the action of the jack bar in the usual way, the three guide
bars fall onto the deadstop and the carriages pass into the back combs, the jacquard's
lift falls to receive the selected hooks, and the motions are repeated.
When "Double Tie" Swiss Net is required to be made the actions of the
jacquards are the same as above described, with the exception of the lifts being
worked with a cam shaped so as to detain (on both motions) the jacks in the
positions as above when making single tie viz:-Tho usual double tie lifting cam.
The guide bars and jacks are traversed in the following manner, when the
Carriages are in the back combs, the jacks rise one gait, the spool guide bars rise
two gaits, and the warp guide bar rises one gate, the jacks are then pressed into
the threads in the usual way, the unselected jacks passing through between both
spool threads and the selected jacks held in the position (on both motions) as when
making "single tie") The spool guide bars then rises one, or more gaits, as
required, the Carriages then pass through the threads into the front combs, the
jacks and guide bars fall onto the deadstop the carriages pass again into the
back combs, the jacks leave the threads by the usual means, and the motions are
repeated-The drafting is done in two colors. When the threads of the N° 3
guide bar are required to cross the wale, red say is used, and when the threads of
the N° 2 guide bar are required to cross the wale green is used.
In reading and punching reds are picked up and punched on the N° 1 Card and
worked on the N° 1 Jacquard, and greens are picked up and punched on the N° 1 x
Card and are worked on the N° 2 Jacquard
In drafting for "Combination Swiss Net" I use five colors, namely, say Red,
green, blue, yellow and brown. When it is required that the thick and fine spool
threads should form the clothing, or opaque work, red say is used, and when it is
required that the thick spool threads only should form the clothing, yellow is used
and when it is required that the fine spool thread only should traverse across the
wale, Green is used-and when it is required that the thick spool thread should tio
in across the wale with the warp thread blue is used and when it is required that
the warp thread only should cross the wale brown is used.
In Reading N° 1. Jacquard, No 1 card for the motion when the Carriages are in
the back combs-Punch. red yellow and blue-For the N° 1 x Card for the Motion
when the Carriages are in the front Combs. Punch red and green.
No 2 Jacquard, Punch blue and brown-Three guide bars are used, with full sets
of threads, and are worked by wheels as above described
If I choose to use colored cotton the clothing or color will be the same on both
sides of the net, by preventing the fine threads from traversing
In making "Combination throw thread" lace in addition to two full guide bars
and threads I use two extra guide bars, or perforated bars, which are threaded
every third gait where required.
The two full guide bars, jacks and jacquards are worked in the same manner as

page_text: when making "Combination lace" and the drafting reading and punching is the
same
The two extra guide bars, or perforated bars, are worked by a jacquard at the
end of the Machine, or by cut wheels in the following manner
These two extra guide bars are placed in front of the two full bars and are
supplied with threads from beams the one in front traverses one gait each motion
and is called the N° 1° bar and the other is the N° 2a bar, and traverses or rises
one gait on one motion and falls one gait on the other motion, and so on for any
number of motions as required forming a pillar with the bobbin thread and then is
thrown four or more gaits on one motion and falls four or more gaits on the next
motion, when again it rises and falls one gait as before-By this method I am
enabled to produce an improved combination throw thread or Guipure net.
For the production of All three gait combination Net, with the warp bar
traversing two gaits only working with two jacquards, alternate motions lifting
with ordinary eccentric cams, or cut cams as required. Two full guide bars are
used the thick threads of the one bar are supplied from spools and the fine or warp
threads of the other are supplied from spools or a beam. I
I employ three-colors in drafting, one for the spool threads, another for the warp
threads and another for both.
When the Carriages are in the back Combs, the jacks rise one gait, the spool and
warp bars rise two gaits, the unselected jacks then enter the threads, the N° 1.
jacquard lifting the selected jacks clear of the threads, the spool bar then rises one-
gait, the carriages then enter the threads and when the front tail of the carriages
have passed the spool threads, that bar falls two gaits the selected jacks of the N° 1
Jacquard then enter the threads by the lift falling, and the carriages pass into the
front combs and when just clear of the threads, the jacks fall one-gait, the spool
bar falls one gait onto the deadstop and the warp bar falls one gait, if the N° 2
Jacquard lift is worked by an eccentric cam the selected jacks are lifted just clear
of the warp threads, but not clear of the spool threads the warp bar then falls one
gait on to the dead stop and the carriages pass into the back combs. But if the
N° 2 Jacquard lift is worked by a cam and its selected jacks are lifted just clear of the
warp threads when the carriages are in the back it retains them in that position
until the carriages have passed into the front combs, and when just clear of the
threads, the warp bar falls two gaits onto the dead stop when it falls to be in time
to lift the selected hooks left by the perforated card into position and the carriages
pass into the back combs.
Should the selected jacks of the N° 1 Jacquard enter the threads before the spool
bar has time to fall two gaits when the carriages are in the back combs, as above
described, the lift of that jacquard will be worked with a cam and the lift then can
be made stationary until the front tail of the Carriages have passed the threads
when it (the lift) may begin to fall after the spool bar has fallen two gaits by using
the highest part only of the lifting cam Figure 2.
For producing all three gait combination lace with two full guide bars and
threads the N° 2 guide bar which is placed next the tric bar, is supplied with thick
cotton from spools and the N° 1 guide bar is supplied with fine cotton from spools
or a beam.
Two ordinary jacquards with two strings to each jack is required for this work,
each lifting the same time every alternate motion each lift is worked with cams
cut to suit the following motions
When the carriages are in the back combs and have just cleared the threats the
jacks rise one gait, the guide bars rise two gaits the unselected jacks then enter
the threads, the selected jacks of the N° 1 jacquard being lifted clear of the threads
by means of the lifting cam Figure 1 Rise N° 1, and the selected jacks of the N° 2,
jacquard being lifted clear of the N° 1 guide bar threads, but not clear of the N° 2
guide bar threads by means of the ordinary double tie lifting can the N° 2 guide
bar then rises one gait when the unselected jacks of the N° 1 jacquard are let into
the threads by its lift falling so as not to leave the hooks by the action of the

page_text: lifting can Figure 1. Fall N° 1 acting upon the jacquard lift. And as soon as
the jacks have entered between the threads of the N° 1 guide bar that bar rises one
gait, the carriages then pass through the threads into the front combs, and whilst
doing so, the No 1 jacquard lift again rises and lifts the selected jacks clear of
the threads Rise N° 2 and when the carriages have passed into the front combs and
have just cleared the threads the jacks fall one gait the N° 2 guide bar falls
three gaits onto the dead stop, and the N° 1. guide bar falls two gaits the selected
jacks of the N° 1, jacquard then enter the threads by the lift falling (Fall N° 2)
low enough to receive the hooks left again by the perforated Card the N° 1 guide
bar falls one gait onto the dead stop and the carriages then pass into the back
combs and the N° 2 jacquard lift falls to receive the hooks left by the perforated
Card-and the. motions are repeated.
By this method I am enabled to make colored net in all two gait or all three
gait, by using a third full guide bar which I call the warp bar
When it is required to make colored bands in all two gait, the N° 2 spool bar
is supplied with colored cotton in every other guide, and the N° 1 guide bar is
supplied with another color or bleached or unbleached cotton of the same number
or otherwise, in every other guide, the threads are not to stand gaited and the
warp bar, which is placed between the two spool bars, is supplied with threads
from a beam for as many pillars as may be required. And to make all three gait,
the threads are entered in every guide-The warp bar traverses one gait, with the
tric bar, the spool bars have the above motions.
And when it is required to make ordinary all three gait work, in bands it may
be done by taking the threads out of N° 1 spool bar, and entering threads in the
warp bar, from a beam. By these means it will be seen that I am enabled to make
three kinds of work in bands at one time, viz:, "Double tie" Combination
CE
All three gait," and all two or three gait work.
"
Two Colors are used in drafting viz:, Green for the N° 1 spool bar and Red for
the N° 2 spool bar
Figures 1 and 2 of the accompanying sheet of Drawings represent the Jacquard
lifting cams referred to.
Figure 1. represents the cam used when making All three gait Combination lace
and when using colors in the formation of bands
Figure 2. represents the cam I employ when making "Imitation Swiss Lace"
and Combination lace" with the ordinary jacquard.
This cam Figure 2 is also used for the No 1 Jacquard when making " Combination
Swiss lace"
Figure 3 represents the cam I employ for N° 2 Jacquard when making Combi-
nation Swiss lace.
Having now fully described the nature of my said invention and in what
manner the same may be performed I declare that I claim
Firstly. For the production of "Imitation Swiss Net" or lace by the method
substantially as described, viz: With the ordinary jacquard, and one needle or hook
to a string and one string to a jack, or selector, and for the shape of the jacquard
lifting cam, which enables me to work the jacquard lift in the time and in the
manner described and the actions of the guide bars and to make different colors in
the same.
Secondly. For the production of the "Double tie" Combination lace with the
ordinary jacquard substantially as described
Thirdly. For the manufacture of Combination Swiss Net or lace with two similar
ordinary jacquards one jacquard acting upon the threads of both spool bars, and
the other jacquard acting upon the threads of the warp bar and the system of
drafting the same in five different colorings or separately for each jacquard-and
the actions of the guide bars and the time and manner of working both jacquards
and the fabric so produced.
Fourthly For the method of making "Single" or "Double tie" and "Double

page_text: action" Imitation Swiss lace, with two jacquards substantially as herein before
described.
Fifthly The production of Combination throw thread or Guipure lace
Sixthly The production of all three gait Combination net with the warp bar
traversing two gaits only employing two jacquards substantially as described.
Seventhly For producing all three gait Combination Net with both guide bars
traversing three gaits employing two jacquards and for the jacquard lifting cams
and parts acting therewith to enable me to work the jacquard lift in the time and
in the manner substantially as described.
Eighthly Also for making all "two ” or "three" gait net or cloth, in bands at
the same time with "Combination" or ordinary work as required and working
colors in the same substantially as described.
In witness whereof I the said George Bentley have hereunto set my hand and
seal this thirtieth day of July in the year of our Lord One thousand eight
hundred and eighty three.