An Improved Process and Apparatus for Edging or Braiding Coats, Trousers, and other Wearing Apparel.
Year: 1895

page_text: Date of Application, 14th May, 1895-Accepted, 30th Nov., 1895
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
An Improved Process and Apparatus for Edging or Braiding Coats,
Trousers, and other Wearing Apparel.
I, URBAN GUTLING, of Wizbing, Bavaria, in the German Empire, Tailor,
do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in what manner the same
is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement :-
This invention relates to methods for providing coats, trousers and wearing
apparel generally with braids or boiders, its object being materially to simplify
these operations and thereby to enable them to be more uently and rapidly
performed than it has been possible to do before.
The edging or trimming of clothes with braids or laces has been hitherto wholly
or partly effected by hand and was accordingly in each case, a very long and
tedious process
The process and apparatus hereinafter described with reference to the accom-
panying diawings, are calculated to obviate all the disadvantages arising from that
old and complicated method of operation
In the drawings,
Figures 1 to 3 represent an arrangement whereby trousers may be quickly and
Leadily edged.
Figure 1 being a plan of the apparatus with the lid closed.
Figure, 2, a similar view thereof, with the lid open; and
Figure 3 a front view corresponding to Figue 2,
Figures 3 and 3" are detail views.
A plate a is secured to a sewing machine in such a manner that the machine-
needle, in descending, engages in an aperture a' provided in the said plate On to
the plate a thero is secured a box or case b having a flat lateral extension OL
projecting plate c. By raising the hd d of the case ba channel or passage e 18
uncovered, the width and depth are so proportioned, that, when the said lid is
closed, the strip of material, which is to form the border, will just fit the said
passage e when doubled up (Figure 1).
As is well known. the usual process in edging trousers, is to fold up the baud of
material which is to form the edge or border, as shown in Figine 34 and to
connect it with the two sheets or flaps 1 and 2 of the waterial (also folded up)
the wrong side of the material being turned outwards both at f¹ and f When
the two superposed pieces of material have been stitched to the band oi border as
illustrated in Figure 3 they are folded up so as to assume the shape or position
indicated in Figure 3 when the edging is completed.
In order to carry out this operation in accordance with the present invention,
the lid d is opened and the strip or band is so inserted, that it takes up the
position in which it 18 represented in Figure 1 with its back to the left. The two
layers of material are passed, respectively, over and under a projection g
formned on the caso or box aud ale retained in position and guided by the left
longitudinal side b' of the said box. The material which is moved along by the
cloth-feeder in the usual way, is stitched to the band or boider at the point a¹.
Now it will be understood that the said band is so guided by the guide groove e
that it moves into required situation of its own accord, without requiring any
assistance from the operator's hand, in which position it may be readily joined to
the two layers or Haps f¹ƒ of the cloth. The only point claiming careful

page_text: attention therefore is, that the two flaps ¹ƒ³ are in close contact with the side b¹
of the box, which, in itself, is a sufficient guarantee of rapid and easy operation.
According to the position which the box boccupies in relation to the stitching
aperture or eye a' the width of the border may be varied, the stitch itself changing
accordingly its position in relation to the material, so that a piece of the band f, of
greater or loss width as the case may be, becomes visible when the edging or
braiding is completed.
In order to facilitate the adjustment of the box bits projecting plate c 18
provided with slots, though which set-screws are passed. Upon loosening theso
screws the said box may be shifted and one longitudinal edge of the plate (ou the
right) may be brought into coincidence with one of the lines o marks on the
plate a The adjustability of the box is an important feature, especially for
purposes of army-tailoring or military equipment. To ensure a perfect closing of
the lid d while enabling it at the same time to be readily opened if need be,
a closing or locking lever is linked or pivotted on to a soiew h inserted into the
said lid; one end of which lever is subjected to the action of a spring and both
its ends being adapted to embrare, or surround, each, a pin on the box when the
lid is tuned down. In order to open the lid it is only necessary to shift the lever
end sideways, overcoming the resistance of the spring in the act, when the lid
may be opened without auy difficulty.
Figues 4 to 6 illustrate an arrangement by the aid of which wearing apparel
generally may be readily edged and coats braided.
Figure 4 being a plan or top view of the mechanism.
Figure 5, a section on lineæ, Figure 4,
Figure 5, a front view corresponding to Figure 4;
Figure 5, a stitching plate, with a guide rail for the attachment of the
bordering material, while
Figures 6 & 6 represent a guiding device for such material.
Upon a plate a sciewed in a predetermined position in relation to the machine
needle, stitching plate m with a passage a' for the needle, is conveniently
alanged. This plato m is exchangeable and, according as it is desired to edge or
to braid (tm). it may be replaced by another plate of different shape, as shall be
more fully described further on. Upon the plate a there are provided removeable
ails or bara nn' n², secured in position by screws or otherwise (Figure 5").
These ails are intended to serve as guides for the braid or bordering material.
Supposing that the operation it 19 desued to perform for the time being is
braiding, then, the two guide rails n n' are adjusted & screwed in position at a
distance from each other, corresponding to the required width of tho braid or strip,
so that the band used for braiding will be reliably guided by the said rails
The band or strip of material used in braiding is attached to the material of the
coat or tunic (Figuies 4 & 4") in the following manner :- -The material and strip
are first stitched together in the manner illustrated in Figure 4. The strip is
then turned over in the manner shown in Figure 4 and once more stitched to the
material and the work is in accordance with the present invention carried out as
follows;-
Besides the rails, nn' a slider (Figure 4) engaging with a groove in the plate
through the medium of a screw bolt is adjusted according to the width of the braid
or strip to be stitched on, and this is effected in such a manner that the band of
braiding material comes to be situated between a projection on the plate m
and a tappet or nose upon the slide r. The rails n n' together with the braid
are covered over with a plate (not shown) and the strip issued from its guide
Just in front of the eye a'. It is now ouly necessary to see that the edge of the
material is flush with the braid on strip t, when the junction of such strip with
the material may be rapidly and neatly effected in the manner shown in Figure 4.
For the purpose of bringing the braiding strip or band into the proper form,
and thus to fix it on the material, as illustrated in Figure 4 there is arranged
(in addition to an edge guido not shown for fear of unduly complicating the

page_text: rawings & cloth presser or presser-root such as 18 shown at 2, Figure 4
Doing
plan and an elevation thereof, such presser being provided with recesses t¹t adapted
to impart both to the material and braid a bulging shape or outline, as at ¹²
Figure 4.
In order to stretch the braid properly there is provided a spring p (Figure 4)
connected by an arm pl with a frame p². By moving on adjusting such frame the said
spring may either be depressed or fixed at any convenient height or level; whereby
the pressure or tension of the spring may be either adjusted so as exactly to
answer any given purpose, or altogether done away with when not required..
For edging proper by attaching a border, the stitching plate m (Figure 5B)
should be employed instead of m; then the slider is to be moved from the dotted
position, Figure 4, to the position shown in full lines; and, lastly, the guide
rails nnaie adjusted at such a distance from each other, that the sping 0,
which serves for stretching, is disengaged, and the space available for the edging
material is confined within procise limits. The covering plate, already referred to,
18 here, of course, again made use of and prior to the needle-oye a' being reached
by the edging material, it is properly guided between a nose or stud m³ on the
plate m' and a projection on the rail ; so that, here again, it 18 only necessary
to bring the edge of the material of the coat etc. into coincidence with the portion
of the edging material issuing from the apparatus
For the pui prse of controlling and regulating the tension of the spring o, there
is provided a lever o¹ adapted to be placed over the spring and to depress the same
more or less.
When it is desired to edge au article of wearing apparel, in accordance with this
invention, a guide plate (Figure 6) is employed, a slide or runner u being
adapted to move within such guide plate. The said runner is fitted with a hook u
and may consequently be adjusted according to the desired width of the edging,
the braid or strip employed for the purpose being placed between the said hook, u*,
and a projection on the plate u The position of the plate in relation to
the needle-eye a' is clearly indicated in Figure 6. Before the edging material
enters the guide-plate u, it must pass between the rails n n'.
In stitching together the edging and the edge proper of the material, it is only
requisite to see that such edge is placed in the night position, and when the
stitching is comploted, tho edging is turned over in the well known manner, and the
sewing process is repented The edging material u' is indicated in Figure 6 in
dotted lines, and is fed along by a small wheel canied by the presser-foot of the
sewing machine.
For
Where a bulging or curved portion of a garment is to be braided or edged, tho
upper portion of piece of the material has to travel a somewhat greater distance
thau the layer of inaterial underlying it and placed diect upon the plate a
this purpose, the usual cloth feeder, operating from below, 18 hole supplemented by
another feeder, such as is shown in Figures 7 and 8
This additional cloth feeder is secured to the sewing machine upon the bar 4 nt
a suitable distance from the needle-bar, and is adapted as such needle-bar descends,
to act by means of a pin or stud, secured to the needle bar, (but not shown in the
figure), upon a cain-surface to prosented by the bar wl cariying the clamp or claw to.
The bar o has an extension or projection at the bach, which is acted upon by
two springs, the former of which tends to depress tho said claw w, while the
latter, tends to press the samo forward. Owing to the manner in which this
claw-carrier is supported, it is capable of being moved to any desired extent, aud
therefore adapted to perform the requisite "catching" movement in such a way as
to reach farther than the feeding apparatus arranged under the cloth, in accordance
with the outline of the cam-groove w³, as the needlo-bar is completing its downward
stroke, while as soon as the needle-bar rises again, the springs cause the
projection and consequently also the claw to to assume the initial positions.
As the cloth-feeder 18 employed only temporarily, it is necessary to afford facilities
for its ready insertion and removal. The following arrangement answers this

page_text: purpose-The bar w¹ receives a projection w³ in which a notch y³ is formed, a bell
crank levo y provided with a ciauk, is adapted to be so turned, that its pin may
engage in the notches y'. When this happens, the cam surface 10 is thereby
moved out of the way of the needle-bar and maintained in an elevated position
The claw co-operates alternately or reciprocally with the ordinary bottom
cloth-feeder.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, 1 declare that what I
olaun 16.
1. A process for edging and braiding wearing apparel more especially coats and
trousers, (.e. providing the same either with borders or with braiding or strips) the
main feature of such process being that the bordering material, or the braid or lace
(ns the case may be) is guided by guides arranged or adjusted in predetermined
situations in relation to the sewing machine needle; so that, in order to ensure the
desired Junction of the braid or edging with the material of the garment, it is only
necessary to maintain the last-mentioned material in the proper position, while
the edging or braid 18 guided in a perfectly automatic manuer.
2. Mechanism for braiding trousers, by the process covered by the first claim,
consisting of a box or case, such as b, adjustable upon a plate, such as a, and
baving a cover o lid, such as d, ai rauged to close a guiding channel or passage,
such as e; such box being adapted so to guide a double braiding strip, such as f,
that the two pieces or layers of material such as f₁fuced only be moved aloug
one of the longitudinal sides of the said box to guarantee, as a result, a rapidly
and neatly performed braiding, the width of such braiding being controllable aud
vanable by the adjustment of the said box.
3. Mechanism for braiding coats by the process referred to in the first olaim,
consisting of a plate a provided with guide rails, such as n n', adjustable according
to the width of the strip or band, also with a guiding slide or runner such as r,
and a stitching plate, such as m fitted with a guiding peg or nose such as, the
requisite stretching of the band or braid being effected by an adjustable flat spring
such as p.
4. Mechanism for providing wearing apparel with borders by the process
delineated in the first claim, mainly consisting of guide rails, such as n n', adapted
to be secured to the plate a, in combination with a guiding slide or runner such
as u, and an adjustable spring, euch as o, for the purpose of enabling the edging
material to be automatically guided
5. As a means for carrying out the process characterised by the first claim, in
the case of curved or "bulging" portions of garmente, a special cloth-feeder, such
as 18 shown in Figures 7 and 8, consisting of a vertically adjustable claw-carrier to',
subjected to the action of two springs and so moved by them, as the needle-
bar of the sewing machine performs its downward stroke, that its claw travels a
greater distance than does the usual cloth-feeder, underlying the material, for the
purpose of ensuring the tight and neat stretching of the upper piece or layer
of cloth.
.
1
1008
MARKS & CLERK,
18 Southampton Buildings, London, W C., and
13 Temple Street, Birmingham, Agents for the Applicaut.