Improvements in Means or Apparatus employed in Sewing.
Year: 1892

page_text: Date of Application, 26th Apr., 1892-Accepted, 28th May, 1892
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Means or Apparatus employed in Sewing.
A communication from abroad by JONATHAN MUNYAN, of Worcester, in the
State of Massachusetts, one of the United States of America, Gentleman.
I Alfred GEORGE BROOKES of 55 & 56 Chancery Lane, in the County of
London, Chartered Patent Agent do hereby declare the nature of this inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described
and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
The machine herein to be described is intended as an improvement upon that
described in the Specification of Letters Patent granted to Zachary Taylor French
and William Cristian Meyer dated September 17, 1888, No. 13365, the object
being to simplify the construction and improve the operation of the parts in order
that the machine may be run at a greater speed and with less power, and instead
of employing springs for various movements, I have adopted cams and devices to
ensure positive motion.
I have improved the construction and operation of the parts instrumental in
controlling the needle thread, so that the stitch is better and more firmly set, the
stitch being set while the work is under compression, the degree of which may be
varied according to the requirements of the stock.
In the Patent referred to the stock rested upon a movable work support, the
position of which was varied according to the thickness of the stock; but herein
the work-support is stationary and the stock is acted upon by a presser-foot, the
pressure of which on the stock is variable in extent as required, the said presser-
foot also acting automatically through variations in thickness of the stock to
control the pulling off from the thread supply of more or less thread, as required,
for the stitch to be made.
I have also provided the machine with a positively-actuated thread-hook
connected to a slide-bar, whereby the thread is so held and controlled that it will
not be drawn across the hook of the needle while the loop is being formed by it.
I have also provided the machine with means for positively actuating the needle-
guide in both directions, it being made to cover and protect the hook of the
needle while the loop of needle thread is being drawn up by the take up.
I have made the awl and the parts for actuating it adjustable with relation to
the needle, to thus adapt it to needles of different diameters, and I have also made
the thread-lifter adjustable horizontally to adapt it to the diameter of the needle
used.
I have so constructed the feed-slide and the parts for actuating it and adjusting
the throw thereof according to the length of stitch, that in any adjustment of the
parts the needle will always register correctly with the awl-hole in the stock.
Fig. 1 is a front elevation of a sufficient portion of a sole-sewing machine
containing these improvements, to enable this invention to be understood.
Fig. 2, a top or plan view thereof, said fig. showing the main shaft and the
cams B, C, D, E, thereon by dotted lines, they being so shewn to enable their
position to be readily seen and yet leave the roller studs and other parts actuated
by them fully visible.
Fig. 3, a right-hand end elevation.
Fig. 4, a left-hand end elevation with the driving pulley shewn at the left in
Fig. 1 removed.
Figs. 4 and 4B are details of the pull-off and auxiliary take-up.

page_text: thread feed cam, the said figs. also showing by dotted lines the shape of other cams
to be referred to.
Fig. 9 is a sectional detail in the line X Fig. 3, chiefly to shew the devices
instrumental in varying the throw of the pull-off, said devices being under the
control of the presser-foot.
Fig. 10, an enlarged detail of the needle-carrying segment and its guide.
Figs. 11, 12 and 13 are peripheral views of the cams B, C and D ;
Fig. 14, a detail shewing the looper, its carrying-bar, and the yoke in which it
slides.
Fig. 15, a detail shewing the presser-foot, and the co-operating pawls and ratchet-
toothed dogs for holding and releasing the same and regulating its pressure on the
stock.
Figs. 16 and 17, details of the frame and co-operating parts operative in
moving the pull-off for a variable distance according to the thickness of the
stock.
Figs. 18 to 21 are details shewing the presser-foot and co-operating parts.
The frame-work A of the machine is and may be of suitable shape to support the
working parts.
This frame-work has suitable bearings for the main shaft A', having fast upon
it a series of cams B, C, D, E the shaft being rotated in any usual manner.
The cam B has a peripheral groove B', and a side groove B, shewn in Fig. 8.
The frame-work has a guide-box A3, in which is fitted to move longitudinally the
feed-slide B³, it having at its inner end an upright B*, which receives a fixed stud a,
upon which is mounted loosely the usual awl segment a', see Fig. 5, to which is
attached the awl a².
The awl segment derives its movement of oscillation from the segmental lever a³,
mounted loosely upon the stationary stud F, the said segmental lever having a roller
or other stud a', which enters a groove c in the left-hand side of the cam C.
The frame-work A has a rigid portion A³, see Figs. 4 and 9, the forward end of
which supports the stud b, upon which is mounted loosely the needle-carrying
segment b¹, see Fig. 10, it having attached to it the curved hooked needle b³.
The segment has a boss 6, which receives upon it loosely the needle guide
segment, the teeth of which, see Fig. 10, are engaged by the teeth of a pinion bº₂
attached to or forming part of a rock-shaft 6, extended loosely through the part A³
of the frame-work, the said rock-shaft having secured to it at its opposite end a
clamp pinion 6', shewn in Fig. 4, which is engaged and oscillated for the proper
distance by means of a segmentally-toothed cam lever 68 of elbow shape, which is
free to turn upon a stud 7, the upwardly-extended arm of the said lever 68 having
a roller or other stud which enters the cam groove 610 in the right-hand side of the
cam E, the shape of the said cam groove being designated by dotted lines in
Fig. 7.
The needle-carrying segment. 1 derives its motion from the segmentally-toothed
lever, sec Figs. 1, 2, and 4, fulcrumed at its rear end upon the stationary stud F
referred to, the said lever having a roller or other stud 6, which enters a suitable
groove 6" in the right-hand side of the cam D, the shape of the said groove being
shewn in dotted lines, Fig. 6.
Prior to this invention it has been customary to provide the needle-guide
segment with a slot, which was entered by a pin carried by the needle segment,
the needle-guide segment being controlled as to its movement toward the stock by
spring, and being lifted or carried away from the stock by means of the pin
referred to carried by the needle segment.
In this invention the needle-guide segment is moved positively in both directions,
which enables the needle-guide segment to be so operated that when the needle
has been drawn back and the loop of thread removed from its hook, the guide
may be made to cover the barb of the hook, and thus obviate any possibility of
the loop of needle thread just discharged from it being again caught upon the
hook of the needle during the making of the stitch.

page_text: In prior machines, whenever the loop caught upon the hook of the needle after
having been once discharged, the thread then heing drawn up to complete the
stitch and enclose the shuttle thread, was broken.
The portion A of the frame-work before referred to has connected to it by a
suitable screw the work-support d, which in this invention is stationary.
The cam D referred to has at its left-hand side a groove d³, which receives a
roller or other stud d', carried by a lever D', having at its front end segmental
teeth, which engage a pinion D³, fast on the shuttle-driving shaft D³, shown by
dotted lines in Fig. 2, said shaft having at its outer end a shuttle-driver, which by
contact with the shuttle D' oscillates the same in the race D³.
The said shuttle, its race D' and its bobbin case, and the arm D* which
co-operates with the said bobbin-case to prevent it from rotating, are and may be
all as in the said Patent.
It will be understood that the awl remains in the stock while the latter is fed over
the work-support in usual manner.
In this present invention the upright B has been provided with a bearing-stud e,
on which is mounted loosely an elbow-shaped lever e, best shewn in Figs. 1 and 3,
and in Figs. 15. and 18, and 19, where said lever is represented detached.
The lever e' at its front end has attached to it the presser-foot e³, and at its rear
end the said lever has jointed to it a link e, which is extended loosely through a
luge of an arm eo, mounted loosely upon a boss e, see Figs. 18, and 19, of the
lever e¹, the link e above the said lug receiving upon it a washer e, acted upon by
a spiral spring e', adjustable as to its force by a nut screwed upon a threaded part
of the said link.
The rear end of the arm is provided with a ratchet-toothed dog e³, which is
engaged at times by one or more pawls elo, varying preferably in length to thus
provide in usual manner for finer adjustments, said pawls being pivoted upon a
lever es, having its fulcrum on a stud e¹s and provided with a roller or other
stude", which enters a groove e", see dotted lines Fig. 5, in the right-hand side of
the cam C.
The inner end of the lever e' is also provided with a ratchet-toothed dog, as e¹,
see Figs. 5 and 15, which dog is engaged by a pawl e, mounted loosely upon a
stud es connected with the rigid projection A' of the frame-work, the said pawl
having a rearward extension e, which is normally acted upon by a spring e carried
by the lever e", which spring normally keeps the said pawl in engagement with the
dog e¹6
The pawls eo are likewise acted upon by a suitable spring e", which normally
keeps them in engagement with the ratchet-toothed dog e³.
The normal pressure of the presser-foot upon the stock may be increased or
decreased, according to the character of the stock, by the rotation of the nut e.
The rear end of the lever e' has a transverse hole 30, in which is fitted to slide
longitudinally a pin 3, which, as shewn best in Figs. 2 and 9, is extended hori-
zontally from a frame f, slotted at its lower end to embrace and be guided by a
rock-shaft, see Figs. 4, 9, 16, and 17, the said frame and the parts cooperating
with it serving to automatically control the supply of thread to the needle according
to the thickness of stock between the presser-foot and work-support d.
This frame f. has, as shown, a boss, see Figs. 9 and 16, which receives a stud f*
projecting from a slide-box which receives in its groove a loose block f*, shewn
in section in Fig. 9, the said block being mounted upon the end of a stud screw ƒ™
carried by an arm "fast upon the rock-shaft f1.
10
The upper end of the slide-box f has a suitable stud or projection which is
embraced by the end of a connecting rod f jointed at " to an elbow lever f"
having its fulcrum on the long stud F, the inner end of the said lever having a
roller or other stud f1, shewn by dotted lines in Fig. 3 which enters the cam
groove B at the left-hand side of the cam B.
To prevent accidental tipping out of vertical position of the frame, the
machine has been provided with an abutment 20 which serves as a guide for

page_text: the frame while one face of the frame A³ serves as a guide for the inner end of
the pin 3.
It will be understood that the frame frises and falls with the lever e¹, and that
the slide-box rising and falling with it occupies different positions with relation to
the block f on the stud screw f10, but in all positions of the frame f the vibrations
of the slide-box about its fulcrum, which is the stud f³, is the same, and conse-
quently the rock-shaft f' will receive a greater or less movement according to the
position of the said frame f.
The position of the frame carrying the slide-box is made variable according to the
thickness of the stock upon which the presser-foot rests.
This variation in the position of the frame f is made available, as a means
by which to automatically vary the amount of needle-thread, which is to be
drawn off from the thread supply to accomodate the thickness of stock being
operated upon, it being understood that enough thread is to be drawn off from
the thread supply preparatory to making each stitch, for the next stitch to
be made.
The thread is so drawn off by a pull-off, composed of an arm ƒ fast upon the
rock-shaft, the said shaft having at its left-hand end, viewing the front of
the machine, an arm g, shewn separately in Fig. 44, which is provided with a
sheave 4, about which the thread t, see Fig. 4, is led from the tension device or
thread supply t¹.
The thread t is carried from the said sheave 4 under a sheave gl mounted upon a
stud screw and thence up over a sheave 5 mounted upon a stud 6 of the arm of
the auxiliary take-up g' mounted loosely on a stud 7, the said arm of being acted
upon by a suitable spring 8 which normally keeps the sheave 5 elevated.
The screw and stud 7 are screwed into a stand y attached by a screw g” to
the frame-work see Figs. 1 and 4.
From this sheave 5 the needle thread is carried down about the sheave 9, on
the take-up lever 9, forming part of a rock-shaft having an arm 9' at
right angles to the the arm 9, which arm by link is jointed to a lever '
having as its fulcrum a stud 90, the upper end of the said lever having a roller
or other stud g which enters a cam groove g¹³, see Fig. 4, at the left hand side of
the cam E.
The rock-shaft g forming part of the take-up lever, as herein represented, is
reduced near one end to receive the thread clamping lever h, the front end of
which is concaved to fit a groove in the sheave y' and come directly in contact
with the needle thread to clamp the same and hold it firmly in place, not only
while the take-up acts to set the stitch, but also while the pull-off acts to pull
off thread from the thread supply, the said clamping lever acting substantially
as does the clamp bearing the number 5 in the said Patent No. 13365 dated
Sept. 17, 1888, but in said Patent the said clamp was controlled as to its
strength by springs, whereas in this present invention the clamp is actuated
positively as will be described.
Referring to Fig. 4, it will be seen that the rear end of the clamp lever h has
a toe which enters a notch in an arm ' connected to or forming part of a rock-
shaft having an upwardly extended arm having a hole for the reception of
the shank of a T-shaped stud h through which is extended and made adjustable
by nuts 12, 13, a link jointed to the lower end of a lever having its
fulcrum at in a suitable stand upon the frame-work the upper end of the
said lever having a roller or other stud h³, shown by dotted lines in Fig. 4, which
enters the cam groove h³, shown by dotted lines, in the right-hand side of the
cam E, see Fig. 7.
By the adjustment of the nuts 12, 14, it is possible to clamp the thread between
the clamping lever and the stud 9' with any desired pressure and at just the desired
time, that depending upon the size of the thread.
The groove B₁ in the periphery of the cam B receives a roller or other stud B*
extended from a lover Be having as its fulcrum a stud B' in a stand Bº, one end or

page_text: arm of the said lover, as B', see Fig. 1, being provided with a groove for the reception
of a block 15 mounted loosely on a stud 16, shown by dotted lines Fig. 2, carried by
the feed regulating lever B having as its fulcrum a stud 17 erected upon an ear Bl
of the feed slide B³.
The groove in the under side of the arm B' is arc-shaped and is struck from the
center or fulcrum 17 about which the said lever turns.
By making this groove arc-shaped rather than straight as heretofore customary
in sole sewing machines, it is possible to adjust the feed to its extremes without as
heretofore adjusting the feed cam, and it is also possible to dispense with the
eccentric stud upon which the said feed regulating lever has commonly been
mounied. In this present machine, the feed regulating lever may be moved
to regulate the length of feed and yet the needle when it approaches the
stock will always register with or enter correctly the hole made in the stock
by the awl.
The feed slide has connected to it in an adjustable manner, by a bolt 20, an
ear B, an upright part of which ear receives an adjusting screw 21 which besides
engaging the ear is screwed into the upright B*.
This adjusting screw, by its rotation, adjusts the feed slide and the parts carried
by it, so as to adapt them to needles of different diameter.
The lever el has connected to it a hand lever ex by which the presser-foot may be
lifted when it is desired to remove or replace work upon the work-support.
The frame-work of the machine has a suitable stud m upon which is mounted a
lever m² of irregular shape, best shewn in Figs. 2 and 3.
The forward end of this lever has secured to it by screw m² the thread lifter m³,
or the device which engages the loop of thread drawn through the stock by the
hooked needle takes the said loop from the needle and opens and spreads it
preparatory to the entrance therein of the point of the shuttle D*.
By loosening the clamp screw m² which embraces a projection 88 of the thread
lifter, the said lifter may be adjusted toward and from the needle in any direction
to enable it to operate properly with a needle of any desired diameter, this being
important for the best sewing.
In the present instance the lever m' has a stud 22 which is provided with a loose
block 23, preferably square, see Fig. 3, and shown in Fig. 2 by breaking away the
end of the lever mo which is bifurcated for the reception of the said block.
The lever m has its fulcrum on the stud F and is provided with a roller or other
stud 23x which enters a cam groove m, shown by dotted lines, see Fig. 5, to the
right-hand side of the cam C."
The needle thread t, from the take-up lever described, is led through a hole
in a suitable eye piece t³, and thence through a hole in a looper t, which is
clamped by a screw t to the looper carrying slide to, shewn in Fig. 2 and,
separately in Fig. 14, the said slide having a stud, as 24, on which is
mounted loosely a block 25 which is embraced by the forked end of an elbow
lever having its fulcrum on a stud to, the said lever at its opposite end
having a roller or other stud which enters the peripheral groove to in
the cam C.
The slide bar te slides in bearings 26, 27, of a yoke n having its fulcrum on
a stud n', the said yoke having a roller or other stud 28 which enters the peripheral
groove n in the cam D.
From the foregoing description it will be understood that the looper may be
made to describe a somewhat irregular or elliptical path about the hook of
the needle to thus deliver the needle thread to the needle while the latter is
through the stock.
To obviate the rending of the needle thread across the hook of the needle while
the latter is drawing the loop of needle thread through the stock, the machine has
been provided with a thread holder which is made as a hook at the lower end of
a slide bar a fitted to slide in a guide box n³ fixed to or forming part of the
frame-work, the inner end of the said bar having a roller or other stud 30*,

page_text: shewn by dotted lines Fig. 4, and full lines Fig. 2, which enters a cam groove 31
in the right hand side of the cam D, said groove being shewn by dotted lines in
Fig. 6.
The sole or other thing to be stitched is placed upon the work-support and
the presser-foot is allowed to descend upon the work, it being kept upon the work
by a force measured by the spring nº, see Fig. 3, one end of which bears against
the lower end of the frame f.
16
In this condition, the pawls elo and e" engage respectively the dogs e and el,
and the lever e¹ is moved, causing the pawl e engaging the dog to turn the
arm about its pivot, causing the lug e, acting on the washer e, to move the
presser-foot e, the spring e' at such time yielding so as to hold the stock firmly,
but with a yielding pressure against the spring e', thus lifting the rod e³ and the
rear end of the lever e' carrying the presser-foot, it then resting on the stock, and
as the rear of the presser carrying lever e¹ is raised the pawls e engage the dog ele
and hold the presser-foot down firmly against the stock, which it depresses at the
.stitch making point.
The stock being clamped, the awl rises and perforates the stock.
After the awl is through and well into the stock and before it commences to feed
the stock, the lever e¹ is moved so that one end thereof strikes the extension e¹ of
the pawl e, thus releasing the latter from the dog el, the stud 89 at the same time
releasing the pawls eo from the dog e³.
This leaves the presser bearing upon the stock by a force due only to the
spring nº, and at this time the feed takes place in usual manner by a horizontal
movement of the feed slide B³.
While the awl is in the stock and the latter is being fed, the thread holder n³
by cam groove 31 is drawn in, it engaging the needle thread and holding the
same.
Just as the awl starts to rise, the looper is moved automatically toward the left,
viewing the front of the machine, and it remains in its backward position and places
its thread behind the hook of the thread holder 23 which is then in its forward
position.
While the awl is being retracted, the needle comes down and enters the hole made
in the stock by the awl, and the awl and presser-foot are moved back again to the
right, and when back the pressure is again put on to the presser-foot through the
levere by the pawls as before described.
During the traverse of the needle through the stock the thread carrying looper is
moved forward and to the right viewing Fig. 1, to lay its thread into the hook of
the needle ².
The needle having reached its lowermost point and having received upon it the
needle thread between the end of the looper and the thread holder, the needle
commences to draw a loop, and the thread holder moves forward to give up to the
needle the thread held by it, such thread being in loop form and of a length sufficient
to obviate tho rending of the thread across the hook of the needle as the latter
rises to draw the loop.
While the needle is drawing its loop through the stock, the take up 9* rises
slightly and gives up some of its thread as required not only by the needle but by
the thread lifter and the shuttle, it being understood that the thread lifter m³
engages that side of the loop of thread drawn up by the needle which is extended
to the thread supply, the thread lifter acting upon the said loop while it is held by
the look of the needle to thus expand the same for the entrance of the point of
the shuttle, and as soon as the point of the shuttle is well into the loop, the loop is
discharged from the lifter and off the hook of the needle on to the shuttle, this
being done while the shuttle is being carried through the loop of needle thread;
then the needle guide segment is moved forward sufficiently to cover the barb of
the needle and prevent the catching of the loop of needle thread upon the needle
as the said loop is being cast off from the shuttle.
While the shuttle is being passed through the loop of needle thread, the thread

page_text: pull-off is moved down to give up to the auxiliary take-up 9 the thread held by it,
and immediately thereafter the take up starts to descend to take up the loop and
set the stitch, and as the take-up starts down the clamp / comes upon the needle
thread, clamping it firmly against the sheave g¹ and holding it there, and while the
take-up completes its stroke to set the stitch, the latter part of the movement of
the take-up draws the auxiliary take-up down against a stop 34, see Fig. 4.
While the thread is so locked and just as the awl is about rising again through
the stock, the thread pull-off is raised by or through the action of the rock-shaft f¹
before described, and its sheave 4 is made to pull off from the thread supply or
tension device sufficient thread for the next stitch to be made, the extent of
movement of the said pull-off being governed, it will be remembered, by the position
of the frame f, which is variable according to the thickness of stock under the
presser-foot.
In the machine herein described it will be noticed that all the levers, which are
horizontal or substantially so, are pivoted upon a stationary shaft located below
the center of the cam shaft, and the roller or other studs carried by the said levers
are engaged by the cam grooves at points below the said shaft.
This construction saves power, and ensures easier movements, or movements
without jar, which results also in the saving of wear upon the parts, and is a matter
of very considerable importance, and, owing to said construction, the machine may
be run at greatly increased speed without breakage of parts, or without tremulous
motions to disarrange the proper working of the parts.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said inven-
tion, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
1:-A wax-thread sole-sewing machine containing the following instrumentalities,
viz.a presser-foot carrying lever; a stud about which it is free to oscillate; a
reciprocating or sliding frame (f) connected to the said lever at one end; tho
needle; and complemental stitch-forming mechanism; a pull-off independent of
said needle; and intermediate devices between the said frame and the rock-shaft
carrying the pull-off, whereby the rise and fall of the presser-foot upon varying
thickness of stock results in lowering and raising said frame to thus increase or
decrease the amount of thread pulled off by the pull-off, substantially as described.
2: The use in a wax-thread sewing-machine having a circularly moving shuttle,
a curved hooked needle, and a thread lifter to engage the loop of needle thread and
aid in opening said loop for the entrance of the shuttle therein; of a needle guide,
the segment to which it is attached; and devices to positively actuate the said
guide as described and cause it to cover the hook of the needle while the shuttle is
passing through the loop of thread cast off from said needle, substantially as
described.
3: The use in a sewing-machine, of a work support a presser-foot; a lever to
carry it, and a toothed dog attached to said lever; of a lever and attached pawl
to keep the presser-foot upon the work at the proper time, substantially as
described.
4: The use in a sewing machine of a work support; a presser-foot; a lever to
carry it, and a toothed dog attached to said lever; of a loosely mounted arm (e")
having a toothed dog; a rod (e³), a spring (e'); and a lever (e¹³) and pawls (el) to
operate, substantially as described.
5-The use in a wax-thread sewing-machine having a shuttle, and a curved
hooked needle to draw a loop of thread through the stock; of a thread lifter to
engage the loop of needle thread to aid in opening said loop for the passage of the
shuttle; a lever to which the said thread lifter is attached, an actuating lever for
the thread lifter lever, and a grooved cam to actuate the said actuating lever
positively in both directions, whereby it is possible to run the machine at a greatly
increased speed, the positive actuation of the said thread lifter obviating strains on
the needle thread due to momentum of the parts, substantially as described.

page_text: 6: The use in a wax-threaded sewing-machine, of a presser-foot, its carrying
lever, a sliding frame; a pin (3) to loosely connect said lever and frame; and a
horizontally movable feed slide having an upright provided with a fulcrum-stud for
the said lever, and an abutment to keep the said sliding frame from tipping out of
place, substantially as described.
7: The use in a wax-thread sewing-machine with a curved hooked needle, of a
looper, a slide bar to which it is attached, a pivoted yoke having bearings in which
the said bar is fitted to slide, and means to slide the said bar and vibrate said yoke
for the purposes set forth.
8: In a wax-thread sewing-machine, the use of a main take-up; a pull-off, a
sheave located between the take-up and pull-off, and a clamping lever, of a rock-
shaft having arms and devices to positively actuate said rock-shaft to effect the
clamping of the needle-thread positively at the desired time, substantially as
described.
9: The use in a wax-thread sewing-machine, of a sheave over which the thread
is passed, a clamping lever mounted on a rock-shaft and adapted to clamp the
thread against the sheave, and actuating devices for the rock-shaft, the said devices
being made adjustable with relation to each other whereby the clamping lever
may be made to clamp the thread with more or less pressure at desired times, as set
forth.
10: In a wax-thread sewing-machine, the use of a feed slide having an upright
and provided with an adjustable ear and an adjusting screw, of an awl-carrying
segment having an awl, and mounted on a fulcrum extended from the said upright,
the adjustment of the feed. slide by this adjusting screw enabling the awl to
work with a needle of any desired diameter in cross section, substantially as
described.
11 The use in a wax-thread sewing-machine, of a hooked needle to draw a
loop of thread through the stock, a thread lifter made laterally adjustable with
relation thereto, and clamping means to clamp the thread lifter in its adjusted
position whereby the thread lifter may be readily placed in proper position with
relation to the needle whatever may be the diameter of the latter, substantially as
described.
12 The use in a wax-thread sewing-machine with a hooked needle, a looper,
and a guide bar, of a slide bar fitted to slide in the said guide bar and having a
thread hook at one end and a roll at or near its other end, and a cam to receive
said roll, and actuate said slide bar positively to enable the hook to engage the
needle thread between the stock and the thread guide preparatory to the needle
drawing the loop through the stock to thus aid in forming a loop of the proper
length and avoid the rending of the needle thread across the hook of the needle,
substantially as described.
13:-The use in a wax-thread sewing-machine having a curved hooked needle,
of a presser-foot carrying lover, a stud about which it is free to oscillate, and a
substantially vertically reciprocating slide frame (f) connected to the said lever
at one end and guided at its other end; of an oscillating slide box (ƒ) pivoted on
said frame, a pull-off, and actuating devices between the said slide box and the
rock-shaft carrying the pull-off, whereby the rise and fall of the presser-foot due
to varying thickness of stock lowers and raises the said slide frame to increase and
decrease automatically the amount of thread pulled off by the pull-off, substantially
as described.
14-In a wax-thread sewing-machine having a curved needle, the use of a
looper connected to cne end of a slide bar; a pivoted yoke in which the said slide
bar is adapted to slide, the said yoke having a roller or other stud; a lever
convected with the said slide bar and provided with a roller or other stud; and a
rotating shaft (A) having two cams (C, D,) provided with grooves to receive each
one of the said roller studs, the latter studs being in substantially the vertical plane
of the longitudinal center of the said sheaves whereby the lever and yoke are made
to move the looper positively, substantially as described.

page_text: 15: The use in a sewing machine of the following instrumentalities, viz. :—a
work support, a presser-foot lever, a stud upon which the lever is mounted to turn,
a presser-foot attached rigidly to one end of said lever, a toothed dog e" attached
to the other end of said lever, a locking pawl e" mounted on a stationary stud and
adapted to engage the said dog and lock the presser-foot in the position in which it
may be left after having been forced down upon the material preparatory to making
a stitch, substantially as described.
16 The use in a sewing machine of the feed regulating lever B mounted
on a stud 17 on an adjustable block on the feed slide and having a loose block,
of an actuating lever having an arc-shaped groove for the reception of said
block, the said groove being struck from the center of motion of the feed
regulating lever, as and for the purposes set forth.
17:-The use in a sewing machine having a curved needle and awl, and a
circularly moving shuttle, of a thread lifter provided with a right angled pro-
jection at its upper end which is adjustably held in the end of its actuating
lever, thereby enabling the thread lifter to be adjusted to operate with a needle
of any desired diameter, substantially as described.
Dated the 95th day of Anril 1899
WM. BROOKES & SON,
55 & 56, Chancery Lane, London, Agents for the Applicant.