IMPROVEMENTS IN RECTILINEAL STOCKING FRAMES, WHICH IMPROVEMENTS ARE SPECIALLY APPLICABLE TO DUTCH LOOMS OK RECTILINEAL LOOMS TAKING UP DIRECTLY ON THE PLATES
Year: 1878

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Arthur Charles Henderson, of 6, Southampton Buildings,
Holborn, in the County of Middlesex, Patent Agent, for the Invention of
"IMPROVEMENTS IN RECTILINEAL STOCKING FRAMES, WHICH IMPROVEMENTS
ARE SPECIALLY APPLICABLE TO DUTCH LOOMS OK RECTILINEAL LOOMS
TAKING UP DIRECTLY ON THE PLATES." A communication from abroad by
Madame Auroy, née Julie Augustine Loiselleur Deslongchamps, Gustave
Beuve, and Charles Boucher, all of Puteaux, in the Department of Seine, in
the Republic of France.
Sealed the 2nd May 1879, in pursuance of an Order of the Lord Chancellor, and
dated the 26th October 1878.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Arthur Charles Henderson
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the 26th October 1878.
ARTHUR CHARLES HENDERSON, of 6, Southampton Buildings, Holborn, in the
County of Middlesex, Patent Agent. "IMPROVEMENTS IN RECTILINEAL STOCKING
FRAMES, WHICH IMPROVEMENTS ARE SPECIALLY APPLICABLE TO DUTCH LOOMS OR
RECTILINEAL LOOMS TAKING UP DIRECTLY ON THE PLATES." A communication from
abroad by Madame Auroy, née Julie Augustine Loiseleur Deslongchamps, Gustave
Beuve, and Charles Bouclier, all of Puteaux, in the Department of Seine, in the
Republic of France.
The improvements referred to and which the inventors claim specially relate to
rectilineal stocking frames or looms known as Dutch looms or rectilineal looms
taking up directly on the forming plates, such improvements consisting in the
application of a forming bar and plates to the said looms and a self acting mechanism
for making the toes of socks and stockings, and in effecting the increase and
decrease in such manufacture; the said improvements being applicable to all
rectilineal looms in general.
The first part of the Invention consists in the application of a forming bar and

page_text: _practice the combination of a motion of the forming plates with the existing
movement.
In effecting this, different shapes and dimensions-of-forming plates may fulfil the
same object, and various mechanical dispositions produce the necessary effects-for-
the-proper functions of the plates.
In front of the presses the-forming bar is movably arranged, and it suffices to
-connect it to the movement of the loom by any appropriate-mechanism.
The forming bar embraced by all the forming plates, slides in guides at its ends
by the action of shafts which are connected below to the levers of a square axis or
bar, which-latter-turns or oscillates on pivots of the frame, receiving intermittent
impulsion from a lever fixed in its centre, and-on which a cam or other lever acts
in such wise that the Dutch loom with this modification applied to it acts-in-the
following manner :—
The gathering or taking up being effected (that is to say, all the plates having
descended under the passage of the jack to take up the thread just strained) the
forming bar descends, and at once draws with it all the forming plates; these
plates acting on the thread produce the formation of the stitch without requiring
any change in the subsequent action of the known parts.
The second part of the Invention relates to a new toe mechanism for making the
toes or points of stockings or socks, and automatically effecting the increasing and
decreasing action in stocking manufacture.
In making the toes, instead of employing the known combinations of racks and
ratchets governing the needle holders, on a shaft placed in front and parallel with the
needle bar are placed two helicoidal cams or undulated screws, with which the
carriages of the needle holders are put in direct relation by aid of tail pieces, so
that, 1st, in giving to the axis (by means of a ratchet governed by a click or pawl
in the usual manner) & rotary intermittent motion the screws or helicoidal cams
advance by this intermittent movement. 2nd, That in cutting or tracing the
threads of the helicoidal cams or undulated screws there are in a complete curve or
spiral what may be termed rests, advances, and retreats; the carriages of the
needle holders have, for example, the following movement, which is generally
employed:-
The circumference of the cam is divided into 8 equal parts, its threads are cut or
traced the space of 4 needles, that is to say to the first the cam causes the
carriage to advance 2 needles, at the second it causes it to withdraw 1, at the
third it advances 2, at the fourth it withdraws 1, and so on with the same
alternate movements till it reaches the last, so that 8 needles have been advanced
and 4 withdrawn.
At the head the thread of the cam is modified to make the carriages advance 2
needles the first keep it at rest during the second, cause it to advance again
2 needles the third, then let it rest, and so on in succession to the end.
Endless screws fixed in front on the same shaft take at the proper time the small
needles which make the toes. A ratchet keeps the axis stationary after each of its
partial movements of rotation.
For heels rounded with 2 needles the cams are continued in a helicoidal form,
but they act as before directly on the needle holders, which has not as yet been
accomplished.
Such therefore is the toe mechanism for effecting the increasing and decreasing
action as applied to Dutch looms and all other systems.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said Arthur Charles Henderson in the Great Seal Patent Office on the
2nd May 1879.
ARTHUR CHARLES HENDERSON, of 6, Southampton Buildings, Holborn, in the
County of Middlesex, Patent Agent. "IMPROVEMENTS IN RECTILINEAL STOCKING
FRAMES, WHICH IMPROVEMENTS ARE SPECIALLY APPLICABLE TO DUTCH LOOMS OR
RECTILINEAL LOOMS TAKING UP DIRECTLY ON THE PLATES." A communication from
abroad by Madame Auroy, née Julie Augustine Loiselleur Deslongchamps, Gustave
Beuve, and Charles Boucher, all of Puteaux, in the Department of Seine, in the
Republic of France.
The improvements forming the subject of the present Invention specially concern
rectilinear stocking frames or Dutch looms and those on the Paget system, several
of such improvements being applicable to rectilinear looms generally, and may be
classified under three principal heads; 1st, Fashioning with a movable box or heal
maker; 2nd, Novel mechanism with undulating screw or continuous cam for
automatically forming the toes of stockings and socks, and effecting the increase or
decrease, or widening or narrowing; 3rd, An apparatus applied to the leaf needle
bar for making round heels.
By aid of the accompanying Drawings will now be explained individually each
of the parts constituting by their combined use an improved Paget loom, executing
a greater amount of work, and more elastic and better fabrics.
Fig. 1 is a transverse section of the loom; Fig. 2 is a front view, the reducing
or narrowing mechanisin supposed absent; Fig. 3 is a front view of this mechanisın;
Fig. 4 is a plan thereof; Fig. 5 is a section of the head of the loom; Figs. 6 and 7
are details of the forming bar; Figs. 8, 9, and 10 represent respectively the taking
up, forming, and knocking over sinkers, full size; Figs. 11 and 12 are a front and a
side view of the heel mechanism; Figs. 13 to 18 show front view and in section
details of the apparatus for making round heels.
1st. Forming. This mechanism is applied to the Paget loom in a manner
analogous to that of some rectilinear looms of a different system by means of a
forming plate or sinker motion combined with existing movements. The principal
organs of the loom are the needle bar a, knocking over bar b, presser c, moving
bar d, grate bar e, or bar bearing the springs in number equal to that of the taking
up sinkers or plates, guide bar g, leaf needle bar h, and the frame of the narrowing
apparatus i, Figs. 1, 2, and 5.
The presser c is connected by the rod c to its governing levers c²; the same
occurs with the moving bar d, which is connected to its lever d by the rods d'.
The presser c is freed of its shield for placing in front the forming bar f, which
comprises the bar f and its shield f¹, maintaining between them the forming plates
or sinkers F, Figs. 1, 2, 5, 6, 7, and 9, lodged between the divisions of the bar f
The taking up pieces or sinkers D, Figs. 1, 2, and 8, raised by the moving bar d,
are brought down as usual by the passage of the jack, and are kept raised by the
springs e¹ of the grated bar e. The lower tail piece of these plates D, at the time
appointed, raises the forming bar f, which is lowered by the tractive power of two
rods f jointed to the ends of the levers f³. By making the forming picces or
sinkers of the shape shown by Fig. 9 intervals of division or dividing spaces are
produced more resisting to the taking up; the arrangement of the shields f' admit
of and facilitate the withdrawal of the forming sinkers or plates one by one.
Fig. 10 shows one of the sinkers B of the knocking over bar b, but they present
no peculiarity.
The following is the action of the loon as far as regards the forming-When the
taking up is effected, the taking up pieces D having descended the forming bar f
descends with all its plates or sinkers; then the forming and taking up sinkers

page_text: withdraw under the action of the moving bar to allow the needle bar a to knock
over its loops on the knocking over sinkers as in ordinary looms.
In-place of the hinged escapement (echappement à charnière) of the Paget loom,
it is replaced by a movable box escapement_(boite mobile à echappement)
represented Figs. 2, 11, and 12; the two last Figures show the box in front-and
side view. The box o slides on the guide bar g, and during the working of the leg
and toes or points-of-a-stocking or sock is in contact with the right slide. When
the heel is being worked it is placed in the required-position, and is kept there by
means of the movable piece o! applied above it; with this view the piece is
furnished with two pins o², which lodge in the holes in the guide bar
and a
-spring-q.arched under the head of a screw q' of the box, keeps the piece o¹ held in
its stationary position. This box or heel maker produces the same effect of
releasing the guides or conductors, and advantageously replaces the--hinged
escapement.
9,
2nd. The mechanism for producing the widening and narrowing is shown in
transverse section by the Figs. 1 and 5, and Figs. 3 and 4 represent it in front view
and plan. Up to the present time in making the toes or points of socks and
stockings automatically a combination of racks and jointed tongue pieces have
been employed, and the racks having an advancing and receding motion act on the
leaf needle carriers for producing the requisite narrowing. All these combinations
are complicated and prevent working the loom quickly. In the present system
the leaf needle carriers are directly acted on by continuous or helicoidal cams.
Arranged on an axis k, placed in front and parallel to the leaf needle bar h, are two
helicoidal cams K, K¹, or undulating screws, with which the carriages m, m', of the
leaf needle carriers are put in direct communication by means of the drawing
projections I of the levers j.
These leaf needles comprise, as usual, the fixed needles and the movable ones s,
which rise in pivoting on a hinge, or which withdraw or recede, and there are also the
small needles of the terminal point of the sole, independent of the carriages m, m¹;
but, nevertheless, obedient to their advancing motion during the first phase of
action of the leaf needles:
At one of its ends the shaft is supplied with a ratchet n, which is acted on by
click to impart to it the requisite intermittent rotary motion; it is the com-
munication of this motion to the cams K, K', which imparts to the leaf needle
carriers m; m³, the advancing and receding movement. The undulations of the
cams and the worms of the screw are determined by the gauge of the loop, and to
give to these carriers an advance movement of two needles, and then a withdrawal
of one needle, and so on successively as far as the terminal point of the sole; then
the cam is modified to produce an advance of two needles, a rest, then an advance;
and so on to the completion of the toe or point. The cams K, K', as illustrated,
Figs. 3, 4, and 3*, are constructed as follows:-Their circumference is divided into
8 equal parts, the threads being cut or traced the space of 4 needles, that is to say,
to the first the cam causes the carriage to advance 2 needles, at the second it
causes it to recede 1, at the third it advances 2, at the fourth it withdraws 1, and
so on with the same alternate movements till it reaches the last, so that in reality,
although the threads are continuous, in each revolution 8 needles have been
advanced and 4 withdrawn. At the end or point of the sole of the stocking or
sock the thread or worm of the cams K, K', at x, Fig. 3*, is modified to advance
the carriages the first 2 needles, keep them at rest during the second, cause
them to advance again 2 needles at the third, then let it rest, and so on successively
to the completion of this part of the stocking or sock. Endless screws V, V, fixed
on the centre of the shaft k at the proper time take the small needles t to terminate
the toes or points; the tail pieces t' then engage in the screws V, V. A ratchet n'
and backing spring leads and keeps at rest the shaft of the cams after each of its
partial and successive revolutions. is the supporting piece fixed to the transverse i¹
of the narrowing mechanism, and which reduces the needles of the toė as they
advance.

page_text: 3rd. The round heel apparatus.-Fig. 13 represents the apparatus in front
elevation mounted on the leaf needle bar h; Fig. 14 is a transverse section of the
same; Figs. 15 to 18 are details. The apparatus admits of making narrowings of
the heels not parallel with the selvage, whilst continuing to make parallel diminu-
tions of the leg, and to produce round heels with one needle. The apparatus
chiefly consists in the use of rack supports. is the frame of the apparatus; h, the
leaf needle bar; M, the leaf needle carriers; is a movable rack sliding under the
carriers, Fig. 15; m, the shield plate of the rack 1, Fig. 17; n, stay of the sup-
porting piece; t is the holder of the bit support s; v, rack fixed after s, Fig. 16;
x, shield to 8, Fig. 18; y is the backing spring. When the leaf needle carrier M is
advanced two needles the piece s only advances one, so that at each diminution the
pieces is only engaged one needle, and consequently lifts one needle only. If,
therefor, at the first diminution the leaf needle carrier M works with 9 needles, at
the second, the piece s raising one needle, there are only 8 needles which will
work; 7 at the third, and so on successively. The following is how these move-
iments are produced:-When the leaf needle carrier M advances two needles the
reducing mechanism carries back the loops taken on the next needles, the piece 8 is
drawn along with the rack v, whose teeth are engaged in those of the rack l, fixed
to the carrier M; but, as will be seen by the Drawing, this rack Z being constantly
brought back one needle by the spring y, the result is that if the piece M draws the
pieces two needles, and that the rack looses a needle, the piece M advances 2
needles, and the pieces will only advance one for cach diminution. Finally, as has
been remarked, the first narrowing or diminution is effected with 9 needles; there
will be only 8 at the second diminution, and one on the piece s; 7 at the third, and
2 on the. piece s, and so on in succession.
This combination based on the employment of rack supports may be replaced by
the use of pinions with differential teeth or some equivalent. Finally, what is
claimed by the Inventors are the herein mentioned improvements specially
applicable to looms of the Paget description or Dutch looms, and is suitable to all
rectilinear looms taking up directly on the plates. These improvements .consist,
1st. In the practical application of forming with the new plates represented
Figs. 8, 9, and 10, and the forming bar, Figs. 1, 2, 5, 6, and 7.
2nd. In the arrangement of a movable box or heel maker to effect the release of
the guides, which box is represented Figs. 11 and 12.
3rd. In the new cam mechanism with helicoidal and continuous cams auto-
matically producing the widenings and narrowings, and acting directly on the leaf
needle carriages, as shown, Figs. 1, 3, 3, 4, and 5.
4th. In the apparatus admitting of making diminutions in the heels not parallel
with the selvage whilst continuing to make narrowings parallel to the leg, Figs. 13
to 18.
Reserving the application of the claims 2, 3, and 4, to all kinds of rectilinear
looms, and for that purpose varying the form, material of construction, and
dimensions of the new parts.
In witness whereof, I, the said Arthur Charles Henderson, have hereunto set
my hand and seal, this Twenty-eighth day of April, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and seventy-nine.
A. C. HENDERSON. (L.S.)