IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR WEAVING AND CUTTING VELVET AND OTHER PILED FABRICS."
Year: 1874

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Jules Bélicard, of Manchester, in the County
of Lancaster, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY OR
APPARATUS FOR WEAVING AND CUTTING VELVET AND OTHER PILED FABRICS."
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Jules Bélicard at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition,
on the 10th June 1874.
.
I, JULES BÉLICARD, of Manchester, in the County of Lancaster, do
hereby declare the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR WEAVING AND CUTTING VELVET AND OTHER PILED
FABRICS," to be as follows:-
This Invention relates to a certain arrangement of mechanism adapted.
for weaving two pieces of velvet or other similar piled fabric (each with
its own cloth back) the two pieces.being woven face to face, and united
together by the pile threads, and then separated by the severance of the

page_text: pile threads in the loom midway between the two cloth backs, so as to
form two perfect pieces of velvet or other piled fabric at one operation.
·
I employ two sets of pile threads (by preference) three warp beams,
one for the two backs and one each for each pile and one shuttle for
the weft. The pile warp passes over two fixed rods or bars, and beneath
a third bar which is movable. The depressing of this bar between the
two fixed bars draws off a certain amount of pile warp from the pile
warp beams, and this bar is depressed at the required intervals by
means of a lever at each end actuated by a tappet on the tappet shaft.
The length of the pile is determined by means of a wire which is
thrust at intervals into the shed between the two cloth backs. If a
longer pile is required, then a thicker wire is used, and a longer
stroke is given to the movable bar above named so as to draw off more
pile warp.
I employ six healds, the first and second for the two pile warps, the
third and fourth for the top cloth back, and the fifth and sixth for the
bottom cloth back. These healds are depressed by means of tappets and
treadles, and raised by springs. .
The order of weaving by means of which the two cloth backs are
formed, and the pile crossed and tied in with both is as follows :—The
wire being in the shed the first revolution of the crank shaft raises the
second and fourth shafts, depressing the first, third, fifth, and sixth.
The second revolution raises the first and fourth, depressing the second,
third, fifth, and sixth. The third revolution raises the second and third,
depressing the first, fourth, fifth, and sixth. This forms the top piece
and binds in the pile thread therewith. The fourth revolution merely
withdraws the wire and the eighth revolution replaces it in the shed..
There is one pick of the shuttle across for each of the other revolutions
excepting the two last above named, which merely withdraw and
replace the wire to keep the two cloths separate whilst the pile is crossed
from one to the other, the picking motion being thrown out of gear by
means of tappets during each of these revolutions. The fifth revolution
raises the second, third, fourth, and sixth shafts. The sixth revolution
raises the first, third, fourth, and sixth shafts. The seventh revolution
raises the second, third, fourth, and fifth, thus forming the bottom piece
and weaving or tieing in the pile warp therewith. The eighth rovo-

page_text: lution, as before named, merely replaces the wire in the shed, and the
weaving proceeds as before. The wire moves longitudinally in a groove
in a bar, which bar is capable of oscillating to and fro, and is moved
inwards and outwards by means of a cam and levers.
.
The pile threads are severed in the loom so as to separate the two
pieces of velvet or other piled fabric by means of a knife, which slides
to and fro in a grooved rail or bar, being drawn backwards and forwards
by a lever actuated by a tappet on the tappet shaft, and is kept sharp
by passing over, under, or between Turkey stones or other suitable
sharpening material or composition,
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Jules Belicard in the Great Seal Patent Office
on the 9th December 1874.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JULES
BÉLICARD, of Manchester, in the County of Lancaster, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Tenth day of June, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-four, in the thirty-
seventh year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors,
give and grant unto me, the said Jules Bélicard, Her special licence
that I, the said Jules Bélicard, my executors, administrators, and
assigns, or such others as I, the said Jules Belicard, my executors,
administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no
others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the term
therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the
Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
MACHINERY OR APPARATUS FOR WEAVING AND CUTTING VELVETS AND OTHER PILED
FABRICS," upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said Jules
Bélicard, my executors or administrators, by an instrument in writing
under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should particularly
describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what
manner the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed

page_text: in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and
immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Jules Bélicard, do hereby declare
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to
be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement and accompanying Drawings (that is to say) :-
This Invention relates to a certain arrangement of mechanism adapted
for weaving two pieces of velvet or other similar piled fabric (cach with
its own cloth back), the two pieces being woven face to face and united
together by the pile threads and then separated by the severance of the
pile threads in the loom, midway between the two cloth backs, so as
form two perfect pieces of velvet or other piled fabric at one operation.
Such being the nature and object of my said Invention I will now
proceed to describe more in detail the manner in which the same is to be
or may be performed or carried into practical effect, and in order that
the same may be clearly understood I have annexed hereunto a Sheet
of. Drawings illustrative thereof, and have marked the same with figures
and letters of reference corresponding with those in the following
explanation thereof.
Fig. 1, in the annexed Drawing, is a vertical section, and Fig. 2 an
end elevation of so much of a power loom as is necessary to illustrate
the application of my Invention thereto.
I employ two sets of pile threads a, a, and (by preference) threo
warp beams, one b, b, for the two backs, and two c, c, (one each) for the
two piles, and one shuttle only for the weft. The pile warps a, a, pass
over and under two fixed rods or bars d, d, and over or beneath a third
bar e, e, which is movable. The drawing forward of this lever e, e,
draws off a certain amount of pile warp a, a, from the pile warp beams
c, c, and these bars e, e, are drawn forwards at the required intervals
by means of levers f, f, at each side of the loom (see Fig. 1). The
rods or bars e, e, are drawn back by springs i, i, when released by the
tappets 9, 9..
If preferred the loose rod.or bar may be made to rise and fall between
two stationary rods or bars which will produce the same effect.

page_text: The length of the pile is determined by means of a wire k, k, (see
detached plan view, Fig. 3) which is thrust at intervals into the shed
between the two cloth backs. If a longer pile is required then a thicker
wire is used and a longer stroke is given to the movable bar é, e, above.
named, so as to draw off more pile warp.
The wire k, k, is attached to a slide 1, 1, running longitudinally in a
groove in a bar m, m. To the slide 1, 1, is attached a. bar or rod n, n,
which is embraced by the fork of a lever o, o, attached to the upper end
of a vertical bar or shaft p, p. This vertical bar or shaft is provided
near its lower end with fingers or projections q, q, which is acted upon
twice in the revolution of the tappet shaft h, h, by means of tappets », 1,
once in such a way as to thrust the wire k, l, forward into the shed of
tho warps, as shown by dotted lines in Fig. 3, and once to withdraw the
same therefrom.
In order that the wire may be thrust into the shed at the more open
part thereof, as shown by the dotted lines 1, 1, in Fig. 3, the grooved
har m, m, is mounted on a fulcrum at 8 and is moved into its dotted
position (just before the wire is thrust forward) by means of a lever t, t,
the lower arm of which is drawn down by a link u, u, acted upon by
à tappet. v. Immediately this tappet has passed the grooved bar and
wire are drawn back into the position 2, 2, by means of a spring w, w.
I employ six healds (see Fig. 1), the first and second x, x, for the two
pile warps a, a, the third and fourth y, y, for the top cloth back, and the
fifth and sixth z, z, for the bottom cloth back: These healds are
depressed by means of tappets and treadles and raised by springs.
The order of weaving by means of which the two cloth backs aro
formed and the pile crossed and tied in both is as follows:-The tappet
shaft is geared to the crank shaft 3, 3, by a spur-wheel and pinion, in
the proportion of one to eight, as shown by the red circles in Fig. 1, so
that the crank shaft 3, 3, makes eight revolutions to each turn of the
tappet shaft: The wire h, k, being in the shed the first revolution of the
crank shaft raises the second and fourth shafts, depressing the first,
third, fifth, and sixth. The second revolution raises the first and fourth,
depressing the third, fifth, and sixth. The third revolution raises the
second and third, depressing the first, fourth, fifth and sixth. This
forms the top piece and binds in the pile thread therewith. The fourth

page_text: revolution merely withdraws the wire, and the eight revolution replaces
it in the shed. There is one pick of the shuttle across for each of the
other revolutions, excepting the two last above named, which merely
withdraw and replace the wire to keep the two cloths separate whilst
the pile is crossed from one to the other, the picking motion being
thrown out of gear by means of tappets during each of these revolutions.
The fifth revolution raises the second, third, fourth, and sixth shafts.
The sixth revolution raises the first, third, fourth, and sixth shafts. And
the seventh revolution raises the second, third, fourth, and fifth shafts;
thus forming the bottom piece and weaving or tieing in the pile warp
therewith. The eighth revolution, as before named, merely replaces the
wire in the shed, and the weaving proceeds as before.
Instead of throwing the picking motion out of gear at the fourth and
eighth revolutions, this action may be reversed by keeping the picking
motion out of gear by a spring and throwing it into action at the first,
second, third, fifth, sixth, and seventh revolutions as follows:-The
spring 4, 4, (see Fig. 2) acting on a finger on the picking shaft 5, 5,
keeps the projection 6 out of the reach of the of the hammer 7 on the fly
wheel, but at each revolution, excepting the fourth and eighth, one of the
tappets 8, 8, (of which there are six, three at cach side of the loom)
comes against a lever 9, 9, and places the projection 6 within reach of
the hammer 7.
The pile threads are severed in the loom so as to separate the two
pieces of velvet or other piled fabric by means of a knife 10, which
slides to and fro in a grooved rail or bar 11, 11, being drawn backwards
and forwards by a cord 12, 12, attached to it and to a lever 13, 13,
which is actuated by tappets 14, 14, (see Fig. 4) on the tappet shaft
h, h, and is kept sharp by passing over, under, or between Turkey stones,
or other suitable sharpening material or composition at each side of the
loom.
The yarn beams may be weighted in the usual manner, but I prefer
to provide the pile warp beams with grooved pulleys 15, 15. One end
of a cord 16, 16, is made fast, and the cord after passing about three
quarters round the pulley has a weight 17, 17, attached to its other end.
I would here remark that the arrangement of loom described above
is more particularly adapted to weaving plushes or other fabric with a

page_text: long pile, but when I desire to weave velvet with a short pile only, I
dispense with the wire k, k, and its adjuncts and the motion for
throwing the picking action out of gear, and I gear the crank and
tappet shafts together so that the former makes only six instead of eight
revolutions to one of the latter
throwing the picking action out of gear, and I gear the crank and
tappet shafts together so that the former makes only six instead of eight
revolutions to one of the latter
In witness whereof, I, the said Jules Bélicard, have hercunto set
my hand and seal, this Seventh day of December, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-four.
JULES BÉLICARD. (L.s.)