Improved Method of and Machinery for Dressing Lace, Gauze, and other like Fabrics.
Year: 1890

page_text: Date of Application, 15th Mar., 1890
Complete Specification Left, 15th Jan., 1891-Accepted, 14th Mar., 1891
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improved Method of and Machinery for Dressing Lace, Gauze, and
other like Fabrics.
I, CHARLES JAMES Cox, of Rock House, Basford, Nottingham, Lace Dresser
do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
This invention relates to a novel method of and machinery for dressing lace,
gauze, and like fabrics by successive automatic operations such as a feeding, a
damping, a sizing by spray, a drying, and if desired a surfacing, the several
operations proceeding simultaneously while the fabric is being drawn through the
apparatus.
In order that my invention may be carried into practice, I place at one end of an
apparatus, a reel of unsized open meshed fabric having extra thick selvedge threads.
The edges of the fabric are passed through a couple of slits with the thicker
selvedge threads on the outside of such slits. Each slit is formed by two plates
placed edge to edge secured to an angle plate, upon which they are adjustable by
screws according to the thickness of the fabric to be dressed. The slits or guides
rest upon two transverse bars capable of being raised and lowered by hand screws,
the guides can also be brought closer to or further apart from each other by similar
hand screws suitably arranged, whereby fabrics of different widths can be operated
upon or fed into the same apparatus. The guides are arranged close at the feeding
or reel end and gradually widen out, so that as the fabric is passed through the
guides it is stretched quite taut. The end of the fabric is then placed upon needle
points arranged upon a transverse telescopic bar, having a notched roller on each
end, fitted into a pocket by a spring catch serving to keep the needles in an upright
position. This pocket is attached to a link chain running from end to end of the
apparatus, and to which, motion is given by sprocket wheels through suitable
gearing.
The telescopic needle bar before mentioned moves with the chain, taking with it,
the fabric, the selvedge edges of which, as they leave the guides, are further held
by needle points fixed into the link chain upon which it is dabbed by a brush,
having an up and down motion imparted to it in any convenient manner.
To prevent undue strain upon the outside edges of the fabric in consequence of
its being drawn from the reel, i employ two rollers, one on the upper and one on the
under surface of the fabric, the said rollers being in contact and driven by suitable
means at the same speed as the chain and help to draw the fabric from the reel by
their nip of the entire width or thereabouts of the fabric, thus preventing distortion
of the meshes of the fabric at the edges. During its travel along the apparatus, it
is brought into contact with a wet roller kept moist by revolving upon a smaller
one immersed in water, the film of water or degree of moisture on the larger roller
being regulated by an adjustable scraper, known as a doctor. The fabric is then
passed through a chamber, in the lower part of which, is placed a steam chest
having branch nozzles for the issue of steam therefrom at a high pressure, or I may,
if necessary, use compressed air. These nozzles are placed in a vertical position
and cross the mouths of other tubes that dip into a trough containing the sizing or
dressing material to be applied to the fabric in a dew or mist form as it passes
along. The sizing material is kept of equal consistency and density by agitators
revolving in the bottom of the trough which is also jacketted for the flow of a
current of hot water through the same. At the top of the chamber, if steam be
used for producing the spray, I provide near the roofing and side walls a sheet of
blanketing, felting, or other material for preventing undue condensation of the
steam or vapour in the chamber and for absorbing such condensation as inay occur

page_text: to lead it into troughs provided at the bottom of the blanketing, felting, or other
material down the sides of which it trickles instead of falling upon the fabric which
would otherwise be the case. The top of the chamber is also provided with a
ventilator operated by a steam jet, or other apparatus for exhausting the superfluous
vapour from the chamber. The trough within the chamber containing the sizing
or dressing, into which the spray tubes dip, is supplied from time to time by a
larger reservoir placed outside, in which is also revolved an agitator.
To prevent the vapour from collecting on and oxidising the chain and discoloring
the fabric stretched thereon, I provide a guard to overlap and only leave exposed a
sufficient space for the fabric to work through, the return part of the chain being
completely enclosed in a long tube or box through which it works.
The fabric after leaving the spraying chamber is passed through a drying
chamber heated by steam or hot water pipes, for rapidly drying the sizing or dress
imparted to it in the spray chamber.
For the purpose of more effectually sizing or dressing the fabric, I pass it through
a second spray chamber, fitted in all respects similar to that of the first, and thence
through a second drying chamber, and in the event of an extra stiffness of dress
being required, through a third or even a fourth spray chamber, the heat in both
cases being regulated by dampers placed in suitable flues.
After having passed the second drying chamber, a lever depending from the
spring catch, by which the telescopic needle bar is held in an upright position,
comes into contact. with a cam roller fixed upon the side framing, releasing the
spring catch of the needle bar. The telescopic needle-bar under the tension of the
fabric is turned upon its axis, the needles upon same being now in a horizontal
position no longer hold the fabric. The telescopic bar moves with the chain a
short distance until a cam fixed on the under side of the chain depresses one end of
a rocking lever fixed upon the framing, at the other end a paul engages a ratchet
wheel affixed to a shaft working in bearings fixed on the framing each side of the
apparatus. Upon the shaft between the bearings two elbowed arms are fixed in
such a manner that their lower parts are below the telescopic needle bar, and upon
the ratchet wheel being turned by the engaging paul the elbowed arms lift the
telescopic needle bar out of the pockets to a position above the fabric and is there
retained until required to conduct the end of a fresh reel of fabric through the
apparatus. The fabric end on being released by the telescopic needle bar is taken
up by two rollers, one above the other.
Around each of the above mentioned rollers and two other rollers of smaller
diameter, are passed endless tapes, and from the small rollers to other larger diameter
rollers, driven by suitable pullies and straps, are passed other endless tapes working
in a position between the tapes first mentioned, the fabric is therefore interlaced
between the top and bottom tapes and drawn from the link chain (which at this part
of the apparatus begins to return to the other end of the machine) to be wound
upon a reel supported by a moveable link and rotated by contact with the tape
roller. The link as the diameter of the reeled fabric increases, allows of a free
movement of the reel to and from the tape roller.
Before winding upon a reel, I may if necessary cut the fabric into suitable widths,
for this purpose I employ rotary scissors mounted on shafts and moveable on said
shafts at will in accordance with the widths desired, I may also pass the fabric over
and under adjustable calenders or irons heated by hot water or steam for further
surfacing the material, and any superfluous dressing may be removed by passing
the fabric between adjustable brushes.
The fabric can be stretched more or less in the direction of its length by means
of a weighted lever bearing upon the revolving spindle of the reel upon which the
fabric is wound previous to dressing, and it can also be stretched more or less in
the direction of its width, by moving the side frames through which the chain is
caused to move.
The telescopic needle bar always accommodates itself to the
different widths of machine. I also use the guides for leading the undressed
material to the reel on which it is required to be wound in an even manner.

page_text: From the foregoing it will be seen that the several processes from the time of
placing the reel of undressed material at one end of the apparatus to the time it is
wound in a finished state on a reel at the opposite end, are carried out simultaneously
in successive order and automatically.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improved Method of and Machinery for Dressing Lace, Gauze, and
other like Fabrics.
I, CHARLES JAMES Cox, of Rock House, Basford, in the Borough of Notting-
ham, Lace Dresser, do hereby declare the nature of this invention, and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement:-
This invention relates to a novel method of and machinery for stretching and
dressing gauze, veil, tulle, and other similar lace, and like fabrics.
My invention will be understood by reference to the annexed drawings.
Figure 1, Sheet 1, is a plan elevation of the entry end of the machine where the
net like fabric is taken or unwound from a drum, and at which entry end the gradual
stretching of the fabric is effected.
Figure 2, Sheet 2, a side elevation of same.
Figure 3, Sheet 3, is a sectional plan of that part of the building in which the
spraying and drying can be effected.
Figure 4, Sheet 4, is a sectional elevation of the same.
Figure 5, Sheet 5,
a plan view of a building in which a second spraying and
drying operation may be performed and Figure 6, Sheet 6, is an exterior view of
such building
Figure 7, Sheet 7, is a plan of that part of the apparatus where the dressed fabric
leaves the machine.
Figure 8, Sheet 8, is a side elevation of same.
Figure 9, Sheet 4, is a detailed elevation of the slit plates which effect the
stretching of the fabric to the required extent while the fabric is passing from the
drum on to endless chains.
Figure 10, Sheet 2, is a detail view of a telescopic and pinned bar to which
the end of the fabric is preferably first attached for passing through the
machine.
Figure 11, Sheet 2, is a detail of apparatus by which the telescopic and pinned
bar is released from the fabric when it arrives near the end of the machine.
Figure 12, Sheet 5, is a plan, and Figure 13, Sheet 6 a side elevation of the
appliances by which the telescopic pin bar is released from the fabric and lifted
clear of it.
Figure 14, Sheet 8, is an end elevation of the reel by which the fabric in its
finished state is received when leaving the machine.
Figures 2, 4, 6 and 8 are intended to represent on the four sheets a single
structure and the appliances in and by which the operations of stretching, sizing,
drying and the collection of the finished fabric are effected. Figures 1, 3, 5 and 7
plan views of the same apparatus and building structure.
The fabric in order to be dealt with requires to be furnished with a corded edge,
which may be produced in the weaving of the fabric by the introduction of a cord
or thread of sufficient thickness for the purpose. This addition to the fabric is the
subject of another application for Letters Patent No. 450, dated 9th January 1891.
This cord is hereinafter referred to as the cord guide.
Jis the drum (with the fabric on it) placed at the entry end of the automatic

page_text: sizing or dressing machine and is supported upon anti-friction rollers to enable it
to run freely yet at the same time its speed of rotation is retarded by the weighted
levers K. The outer end of the fabric may have a strip of canvas, tape or calico
sewn to it and the fabric be then led into and between a pair of plates L, L, with
angled edges, see detail view, Figure 9, so that the "cord guides" remain outside
of the plates. These plates L, L, diverge from one another longitudinally, as at
Figure 1, and the slits or spaces are such that whilst the thin material can pass
freely through, the "cord guides "being of sufficient thickness cannot pass through,
hence the traverse of the fabric causes it to be stretched to the required extent for
the meshes to assume their proper shape. The tape on the end of the fabric, or
the fabric itself, is then passed over pins of a bar M (see Figures 1 and 10) to travel
through the machine.
The "cord guides" of the fabric are led by the slit plates L, L, Figures 1 and 9,
over pins of endless chains N which are carried by chain wheels and guides arranged
in the side frames of the machine.
The cord guides" of the fabric as they enter the machine are forced down for
the fabric to take on to the pins by dabbing brushes P, P, which are moved up and
down for the purpose.
The fabric by the movement of the chain is caused to travel into and through
the sizing or dressing chamber Q where the size from a tank S is forced in cloud or
mist by a vertical spraying apparatus from nozzles R and steam or air jets T of
which there are a number, as seen at Figure 3, for equal distribution over the full
width of the fabric, the links of the chain being protected from the spray by cover
plates U, U.
The fabric by the continued movement of the chain is carried through a chamber
to be dried, said chamber heated preferably by steam pipes V, and should the fabric
not be sufficiently sized or dressed, it can be passed through another or more
chambers to be recoated and from thence into other drying chambers, but if the
sizing or dressing is sufficient in the one chamber, the fabric passes on until the
bar M comes into contact with appliances hereinafter described by which it is
turned over and released from the fabric; or if the bar M has been dispensed
with and a stiff canvas, or other end attached in lieu, the end is led between a
pair of rollers W provided with endless tapes X (Figures 7 and 8), which may
he slightly elevated to draw the fabric off the pins of the chain.
The fabric in a dry dressed state is sufficiently rigid to be held by the tapes X,
which pass it between another pair of rollers Y, Y, having other tapes on them
for carrying the fabric to a collecting reel, or it may be a folder to lay the
fabric in superposed layers, the fabric being guided to the reel % by a guard
plate a. This reel when rotated, preferably by frictional gear rolls the fabric
upon the bars or rails b.
The fabric when dressed or sized may be cut by circular cutters into given
widths, and I prefer to cut the "cord guides" away as it leaves the chain pins.
The cutters may be plain or scalloped according to the desired outer edge of the
fabric and the use to which it is to be put.
As a rule open meshed fabrics, such as tulle, or fine lace are made to a given
width and it is essential that the meshes be opened to an excess of the manu-
factured width to produce hexagonal, or other form of meshes according to the
weaving, so that the meshes be of equal size and proper shape, and it is to this
end that my system of stretching mechanically is directed.
In order to deal with fabrics of different widths I make my inclined and angled
plates L adjustable and also my chain frames. For this purpose, I also make the
bar M telescopic.
The angle plates L, L, are readily adjustable both for height and angle by
screws and hand wheels d as shown, or otherwise.
employ agitators in the size troughs S, and supply the troughs from an outside
vessel e, see Figure 3, so that the sizing is kept at the same density throughout
the operation.

page_text: I also maintain an equal temperature of the sizing substance by hot water or
steam tank, see Figure 4, or it may be by circulating water pipes.
The fineness of spray of the dressing under the action of the jets of steam, or it
may be air, produces a mist or cloud within the chamber Q, and to prevent drops
of moisture from the roof falling on to the fabric, I provide near the roofing and
side walls a screen g of blanketing or other suitable material which absorbs the
moisture, and such surplus as accumulates thereon trickles down into troughs / to
be led away.
In case the telescopic bar is used to retain the first or leading end of the fabric,
the appliance which I employ for releasing the said bar from the end of the fabric
as it passes out of the machine will be understood from Figure 11 in conjunction
with the appliances shown at Figures 12 and 13.
After having passed through the required number of sizing and drying
chambers, levers k, k, depending from spring bolts, j, are arranged within
boxes i, i, fixed one on each chain N to travel with said chains (shown in the
drawings, see Figures 10 and 11) come into contact with cam rollers 1, 1, fixed
upon the side frames to release the spring bolts from the pin bar M. This
bar M under the tension of the fabric is turned upon its axis, as seen in Figure 5, the
pins upon same being now in a horizontal position; no longer hold the fabric.
The boxes and the bar continue to move with the chains, the bar passing on to a
couple of elbowed arms t, t, arranged with their points just below the travelling
line of the bar until a cam a fixed on the under side of one of the chains, bears
against and depresses one end of a rocking lever fixed upon the framing.
The other end of the lever has a connecting link which operates a ratchet
wheels mounted on a shaft working in bearings fixed on the upper of the chain
housings or side frames at one side of the apparatus, and upon the ratchet wheel s
being turned by the connecting link, the elbowed armss, t, lift the pin bar out of
the boxes i, i, to a position above the fabric indicated by dotted lines, Figure 13,
and is there retained by the paul u engaging the teeth of the ratchet wheel s
until again required to conduct the end of a fresh length of fabric through the
apparatus. The elbowed arms can be returned to their first position by hand
when required. The fabric end on being released passes between the endless tapes,
as before described.
The skeleton gathering reel Z which I prefer to employ is composed, as shown
at Figure 14, of a central shaft and two side plates in which are holes for the
reception of loosely fitting bars b, which when inserted, constitute four angles, so
that the fabric when led between, and the reel set in motion by friction gear causes
the fabric to roll itself upon the loosely fitted bars, which bars when all the fabric
has been wound upon them can be readily withdrawn, leaving the fabric coiled or
rolled upon itself with a hollow centre which facilitates its easy removal from the shaft
for being laid flat, or for placing upon a drum or reel if required. The friction
gear enables the reel to adjust itself with regard to tension, so that the fabric is not
strained while being wound upon the reel.
Before winding upon a reel, I may if necessary, pass the fabric over and under
adjustable calenders, or heated smoothing irons for further surfacing the material
and any superfluous dressing may be removed by passing the fabric between
rotatable brushes.
Any desired speed of the chains can be obtained from the coned pulley v, the
strap over which can be shifted by the threaded rod and fork w, see Figure 7.
I am aware that fabrics have been passed through a chamber furnished with a
spraying apparatus but such fabrics have been previously stretched on to a frame
by hand, and requires skill and judgment on the part of the operators for properly
forming the meshes.
For the above reason, I do not claim broadly dressing or sizing by means of
spraying but
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of this invention.
3.

page_text: and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is:
1. An automatic machine for dressing net-lace, gauze, and other like fabrics, in
which the fabric is caused to traverse from a reel or drum or other similar
appliance through the machine whilst the successive operations, such as sizing,
drving &c. are being performed, the fabric during the longitudinal traverse being
held transversely and longitudinally stretched whilst the operations of sizing and
drying are carried on, substantially as hereinbefore described.
2. The continuous process of dressing lace, gauze, and other like fabrics, in
which the fabric is stretched transversely as well as longitudinally to the required
extent, and caused to traverse longitudinally in the stretched condition, and sized
and dried during such longitudinal traverse, and whilst in such stretched condition
substantially as hereinbefore described.
3. In the dressing of lace, gauze, and other like fabrics the stretching and
guiding of the said fabrics by means of cord guides introduced along or near to
the edges of the fabric, substantially as hereinbefore described.
4. In the dressing of lace, gauze, and other like fabrics, dressing the fabric by
passing it, whilst held in a suitable condition of both longitudinal and transverse
tension, in the manner set forth through a chamber in which the dressing is
deposited upon it by spraying substantially as herein before described.
5. In the dressing of lace; gauze, and other like fabrics, dressing the fabric by
passing it whilst held in a suitable condition of both longitudinal and transverse
tension, first through a spraying chamber and then through a drying chamber.
substantially as herembefore described.
6. The process for dressing lace, gauze, and other like fabrics in which a-fabric
furnished with cord guides is first transversely stretched by means of such cord
guides and then drawn in the stretched condition through suitable apparatus for
sizing and drying the fabric, the transverse stretch being maintained by suitable
means until after the fabric is dried, substantially as hereinbefore described.
7. In connection with machines for dressing lace, gauze and like fabrics the
method of gradually stretching such a fabric to its required extent and passing it
on to pins for subsequent dressing, substantially as set forth.
8. Apparatus substantially such as is hereinbefore described with reference to
Figures 1, 2 and 9 for stretching the corded fabric transversely.
9. The combined apparatus for stretching the fabric transversely and delivering
it in the stretched condition on to the pins of traversing chains substantially as
hereinbefore described with reference to Figures 1 and 2.
10. In apparatus for dressing lace, gauze, and like fabrics with open meshes, a
spraying chamber arranged and furnished with spraying apparatus as described
with reference to Figures 3 and 4.
11. The apparatus for holding the end of the fabric and releasing and removing
the holder at the proper point, substantially as hereinbefore described with
reference to Figures 12 and 13.
12. In machinery for dressing lace gauze and like fabrics the delivering
apparatus in combination with the traversing chain and its pins, substantially as
herein before described with reference to Figures 7 and 8.
13. The series of apparatus for consecutively stretching, sizing, drying and
delivering lace, gauze and like fabrics, substantially as hereinbefore described and
shown on the drawings.
01.
T
1001
H. GARDNER,
Patent Agent, 166, Flect Street, London,
Agent for the said Charles James Cox.
H. GARDNER,
Patent Agent, 166, Fleet Street, London,
Agent for the said Charles James Cox.