IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF CUT PILED FABRICS, AND IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS APPLICABLE THERETO
Year: 1849

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, HENRY
BERNOULLI BARLOW, of Manchester, in the County of Lancaster, Consulting
Engineer and Patent Agent, send greeting.
WHEREAS in consequence of a communication made to me by Theodor
Zuppinger, of Maenedorf, near Zurich, in the Republic of Switzerland, Manu-
facturer, who was and is a Foreigner residing abroad, I became and am in
posession of an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF CUT
PILED FABRICS, AND IN MACHINERY OR APPARATUS APPLICABLE THERETO;" and
whereas Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letter's
Patent under the Great Seal of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and
Ireland, bearing date at Westminster, the Twentieth day of January now last
past, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the
said Henry Bernoulli Barlow, my exors, adiñors, and assigns, Her especial
licence, that I, the said Henry Bernoulli Barlow, my exors, admors, and
assigns, or such others as I, the said Henry Bernoulli Barlow, my exors,
adiñors, and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time
to time and at all times during the term of years therein expressed, should
and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within England, Wales,
and the Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, the said Invention; in which said
Letters Patent is contained a proviso obliging me, the said Henry Bernoulli
Barlow, by an instrument in writing under my hand and seal, particularly to
describe and ascertain the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner
the same is to be performed, and to cause the same to be enrolled in Her
Majesty's High Court of Chancery within six calendar months next and imme-

page_text: diately after the date of the said recited Letters Patent, as in and by the said
Letters Patent, reference being thereunto had, will more fully and at large
appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said
Henry Bernouilli Barlow, do hereby declare that the nature of the said
Invention consists in improvements in manufacturing cut piled fabrics, whether
they be made of cotton, wool, silk, or any other substance that may be used as
weft by the processes and with the aid of my improved machinery or apparatus,
which I shall now proceed to describe.
The first process consists in weaving a fabric similar to that which has
heretofore been used in making common chenille, with such additions as render
it fit for being operated upon by the machine in which it is folded, pressed,
prepared, and cut. The second process is performed by the aid of a machine
or machines, in which a fabric for making chenille is folded on a comb pressed,
prepared, and cut so as to form the peculiarly prepared weft which I call
"toothed chenille, the teeth of the comb being for the purpose of dividing the
threads of the weft into equi-distant compartments, between which the warp
threads enter when the toothed chenille is re-woven, or the sewing thread
enters when the toothed chenille is used for being sewn on to cloth or other
fabric. The third process consists either in introducing by the aid of a
suitable instrument forming part of my improved machinery or apparatus the
prepared toothed chenille into the shed of the warp when the toothed chenille
is re-woven, the said instrument enabling the weaver. to place each thread of
the warp into one of the divisions in the toothed chenille with the greatest
accuracy and facility, or in introducing, without the aid of the above-named
instrument, the toothed chenille into the shed of the warp, in which case it
will be requisite that the attendant should place each end of the strip of
toothed chenille in a. line with the selvages of the fabric. And the last
improvement consists in introducing between the weft of certain cut piled
fabrics round, flat, or other shaped wires, which retain the fibres of the weft
in their proper position, and ensure greater precision in the design, the said
wires and warp threads which secure them to the fabric being easily separated
from the fabric when woven.
And in further compliance with the said proviso I shall now proceed to
desbribe the manner in which the said Invention may be performed and
carried into effect; and in order to illustrate the same more fully, I shall
refer to the three Sheets of Drawings hereunto annexed.
These Drawings are made to the scales marked on them, and similar letters
and figures of reference are placed upon corresponding parts of each machine.
or part of machine in the different views.
1

page_text: DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS.
In Sheet 1, Fig. 1 is a plan view representing a piece of fabric very similar
to that employed for making the ordinary chenille. Fig. 2 is a section
through part of a loom on which the fabric shown in Fig. 1 is woven, and
which fabric is afterwards converted into toothed chenille. Fig. 3 is a front
view of part of the loom shown in Fig. 2. Fig. 4 is a side elevation of the
machine by the aid of which the fabric shown in Fig. 1 is converted into toothed
chenille. Fig. 5 is a front elevation, and Fig. 6 is a plan view of the same.
Fig. 7 represents in two views a packing piece belonging to the said machine.
In Sheet 2, Fig. 8 is a section through the comb and slides, forming part
of the machine above described with reference to Figs. 4, 5, and 6. Fig. 9 is
a toothed ruler for facilitating the operation of placing the fabric shown in
Fig. 1 on the teeth of the comb. Fig. 10 is a detached view of the pressing
bar t, by which the fabric forming the toothed chemille is compressed.
Fig. 11 is a detached view of the bar q in which the pressing bart is fixed.
Fig. 12 is a detached view of the cutting apparatus, by which the fabric
when folded on the teeth of the comb is cut. Fig. 13 is a transverse section
of another machine for folding the fabric of which the toothed chenillo is
made. Fig. 14 is a plan view of the instrument by means of which the
toothed chenille is introduced into the warp shed when the toothed chenille is
rewoven. Fig. 15 is a section and Fig. 16 a front elevation of the said
instrument. Fig. 17 is a plan view of a sheet metal division plate forming
part of the above-mentioned instrument, and Fig. 18 is a front view of the
same. Fig 19 is a view in perspective of a tool to facilitate the placing of the
toothed chenille into the instrument shown in Figs. 14, 15, and 16. Fig. 20
is a front view and side view of a bobbin on which the toothed chenille is
wound when it comes from either of the machines by the aid of which it is
prepared and cut.
On Sheet 3, Fig. 21 represents a front elevation of a machine for folding
the fabric of which the toothed chenille is made. This machine may be used
instead of the one shown in Fig. 13. Fig. 22 is an end elevation of the same;
Fig. 23 is a sectional elevation of part of the same machine, taken through the
line A, B; and Fig. 24 is another sectional elevation, taken through the line
C, D, of Fig. 21. Fig. 25 is a plan view, and Fig. 26 a transverse section of
a shuttle. On referring to Sheet 1, Fig. 1, it will be seen that the fabric
employed for making my new-invented toothed chenille is of the same descrip-
tion as that usually employed for making the ordinary chenille, the warp
threads A being placed parallel to each other, and their number being regu-
lated according to the fabric required. The distance between the
warp threads
is about twice as great as the height of the toothed chenille.
The threads

page_text: forming the warp may in some cases be advantageously prepared with a
solution of gum, glue, or other size. The fabric is composed of the usual
colored or uncolored weft threads forming the pattern, and which are in some
cases prepared with size; and in addition to the ordinary weft the strong
threads Barc woven in the fabric, and form on the right-hand side narrow
loops C, and on the left-hand side open loops D. These loops are for the
purpose of facilitating the process of folding the fabric when it is put in the
machine by the aid of which the toothed chenille is made. The distance
between the weft threads B corresponds to the distance between the divisions
of the toothed chenille; and they must be woven into the fabric in such wise
that they pass over one set of warp threads and under the next set, as seen in
Fig. 1. The method of forming the loops C and D is as follows:-The
fabric of which the toothed chenille, is made is woven on a loom similar to
those used in preparing the ordinary chenille, but instead of the usual breast
beam I make use of a roller E (see Fig. 2 and 3), provided with a top roller
F. The roller E has near each of its ends two circular rows of small pins,
which answer, in conjunction with the plates of metal G and H (see Fig. 1),
the purpose of temples, and retain the fabric, to its proper width, as seen in
the Figs. 2 and 3. The thin plates of brass, G, G, and H, H, are supported
at one end on the roller E, and the other ends of the said plates-are-lifted up
and down by the harness of the, loom, and they are guided by the segment-
shaped wires I, working in bearings projecting from the standard K. . The
plates G, G, cause the weft B to form the loops C and D, and are placed.
outside of the outer row of pins fixed in the roller E; and the plates H, H,
are woven into the fabric between the first and, second row of warps at each
selvage. These plates come between the two rows of pins, and hold the fabric
to its proper width. In proportion as the fabric is taken up by the cloth
roller (which is not shown on the Drawing, being a well-known part of a
loom), it is drawn over the ends of the plates G, G, and H, H, and is wound
up with the weft thread B in it, ready to be operated upon by the machine in
which the toothed chenille is prepared. L is a box placed in front of the
loom containing the shuttles with the various colored wefts required for
ducing the pattern in the fabric: The warps A are of any suitable length,
and the weft threads are put in to suit the pattern which it, is intended to
produce. After each line of the pattern has been read off and woven in
it is necessary to leave a space of two or three inches. before the next line is
commenced. The reason for leaving this blank space without weft will be
.explaned hereafter.
pro-
In Figs. 4, 5, and 6 is represented the machine, by the aid of which the
fabric above described. is formed into toothed chenille. a is the roller which

page_text: .
contains the fabric as it comes from the loom on which it is woven; but it is
so wound on the said roller that the first line of the pattern must be the first
to be operated upon. The roller a is supported by the standards b, fixed to
the framing c of the machine. The first portion of the fabric must now be
unwound from the roller a, and the narrow loops. C'are put on the small hooks
d projecting from the teeth of the comb. The back of the comb is formed of
the metal bar e, see Figure 8 of Sheet 2, through which all the teeth pass,
and are held in by a-wire. The bar e¹ is supported by the iron rail e², bolted
down to the main framing of the machine. The upper rail e' is screwed on to
the rail e³, and is shaped so as to form an abutment to the ends of the teeth of
the comb. The rails and e³ have small projections in front, which retain the
bar e', but allow the teeth of the comb to pass between them. As soon as
one selvage of the fabric is secured by the 'hooks' d, the stretching frame f,
which moves on, the fulcrum g, is lowered' from the position indicated by the red
lines in Fig. 4, until the projections h rest upon the slide i. The said slide i
forms part of the press for compressing the fabric, as will be hereafter
explained. The larger loops D of the fabric seen in 'Fig. 1' are now to be
hooked on to the studs k, which are fixed in a rail / extending the width of
the comb, and attached to the uprights of the stretching frame f¨by the pieces
m. When the fabric is supported by the loops C being fast on the hooks d,
and loops D being fast on the studs 'k, the two screws o are turned round by
the handles n so as to distend the weft threads B. As soon as the fabric is
sufficiently stretched, the teeth of the wooden rack p (see the detached view,
Figure. 9 on Sheet 2,) are introduced from above into the open loops D, as
seen by the red lines in Fig. 4 between the selvage of the fabric and the cross
rail . The attendant, by gradually drawing the rack p towards the comb é,
brings the fabric against the hooks and pushes it carefully over them until
all the fabric is on the teeth of the comb, and beyond the hööks d. The weft
threads B which remain stretched between the hooks.d and the studs 'k are now
slackened. By turning the screws o in the contrary 'direction the loops C are
all lifted off the hooks d, and the stretching frame f with the threads'B is
again elevated into the position shewn by red lines in Fig. 4. The rack¨p,
which had before been used for pushing the fabric down the weft threads B, is
now introduced from underneath into the comb e, 'so 'that the hooks à lié
between the teeth of the rack, the ends of which are supported by the framing
of the machine. The slide q, which is formed of two plates of metal bolted.
together at each end by the bolts r, is placed at the front of the machine, and
moves in grooves in the guide bars u. When the fabric under operation is all
on the comb, the assistant pushes forward the slide q until the hooks of the comb

page_text: enter into the openings made in the plate s (seen best in the detached Fig. 10
of Sheet 2). The plates is screwed to a wooden rail t, which is also provided
with holes corresponding to those in the plates; and the rail t is fixed in a
recess made to receive it in the slide q. As soon as the slide q has been
placed in the position shown by the red lines in Fig. 4, the attendant takes away
the rack p, and the fabric is moved by hand along the teeth of the comb till it
is brought close to the slide i, and the slide 9 is again pushed forward until
it touches the fabric. A moderate pressure, or sufficient to bring the fabric
into the space shewn by blue lines in Fig. 6, is now given by means of the
screws v, which are placed one at each side of the machine. The screw nuts
w in which the screws work are flat at their lower side, and bear on the top
of the side frame. As the slide q is now at a considerable distance from the
screw nuts, it is necessary to introduce between each of the nuts and the slide
one of the packing pieces x (drawn detached on Sheet 1, Fig. 7), so that by
turning the handle y the nuts w are made to act on the slide o by means of
the shaft z and bevel pinions, as clearly shewn in the plan view, Fig. 6. In
putting the fabric on the comb, it will be apparent that half of the warps are
above and the other half below the teeth of the comb. The space between
the loose warp threads which, as has before been described, separate or mark
the division between each portion of the pattern, is now filled up by the shot
bolts 1, 1, placed at each side of the slide q, as seen in the plan view, Fig. 6.
When the slide q is in the position shown on the right-hand side of Fig. 6 by
red lines, the attendant pushes both the shot bolts forward until the pins
2 which are let into them arrive close to the slide i, the loose warp threads are
then passed round the pins 2, so as to be completely out of the way during
the operation of cutting, which will be described hereafter. The whole portion
of the fabric, forming one division of the pattern, being now compressed
between the slides i and q, must be prepared for cutting by surrounding it, as
well as the shot bolts 1, by a band or strap of cotton or other material which
had been previously made wet. The fabric on the comb is now warmed by
iron bars 3, seen in section in Fig. 4, which are heated to such a degree that
when placed above and below the wet band they cause the water in it to
form steam, without injuring the bands.
a rail 4, see Fig. 5, having two inclined planes on its under surface corre
sponding to two others on the bar 5, which, by being moved in the direction
of the arrow, elevates the bar 4, and with it the heating bar 3, until it comes
in contact with the wet band surrounding the fabric under operation. Tho
steam which is generated by the above-described means softens the fibres of
the fabric and the size (if any has been used). By turning the screws v,
The lower heating bar 3 is placed on

page_text: the fabric should now be still more compressed, and left to stand for a few
minutes. The attendant in the meantime winds up on a bobbin the weft
threads B which had been previously used for guiding the fabric on to the
comb, and for forming the broad and narrow loops by which it is first stretched
on the machine. When the chenille is sufficiently softened, the heating bars 8,
and the strap or band which surrounded the fabric, are taken away, and after
removing the packing blocks the slide q is brought back by the attendant
until it bears against the stoppers.6, see Fig. 6, which are then placed into
the position shown in red; and the slide 9 remains in the same position
during the process of cutting the fabric, serving as a support to the blade 7,
the back of which bears against the plates during the backward and forward
motion of the knife. The cutting apparatus consists of a long blade of sheet
iron 7, shewn by red lines in Fig. 6, and drawn detached in Fig. 12, fixed at
one end to a frame 8, by the screw 9. The blade 7 has a narrow opening or
slot near the middle of its length, into which a knife like a lancet blade, 10,
is inserted. The blade 7 of the knife is guided at each side of the machine
by the projections 12, and after being fixed at one end to the frame 8, it is
passed through openings made in all the teeth of the comb, seen best in
Fig. 8 of Sheet 2, and through the shot bolts 1, and fixed at the other end to
the stud 18, after which the blade is tightened by means of the screw 14, as
seen in the detached view, Fig. 12. To the frame 8 is fixed a stud 15, which
moves between the stops 16 and 16*, and serves to stop the knife when it
has cut through the fabric. The attendant now pushes the frame 8 and blade
7 until the knife 10 comes into the left-hand shot bolt 1, at which time the
stud 15 will come in contact with the stop 16. On referring to the plan
view, Fig. 6, it will be seen that the clicks 17 are fixed at each end of the
slide i. These clicks serve for bringing the slide i, and the fabric which is
folded on the comb, towards the knife during the process of cutting, by means
of the screws v and nuts w. The length of the clicks should be so regulated
that when the screws have compressed the fabric ready for the warming and
damping process, the clicks catch on the shoulders, of the nuts w, so that when
the attendant moves the handle y in the contrary direction to that in which it
bad been moved for tightening up the fabric, he brings the fabric forward
until it touches gently against the blade 7. By pulling the frame 8, the knife
10 is brought from the left-hand side of the machine in which it is now
supposed to be to the right-hand side, as shewn in red in Fig. 6, thereby
giving the first cut into the fabric, the depth of the cut being equal to the
height which the knife 10 projects beyond the blade 7.. The stud 15, by
coming against the stop 16+, arrests the progress. of the frame 8, and the

page_text: They are screwed
The fabric being
knife is then in the right-hand shot bolt 1. The frame 8 is now pushed back
into its former position towards the left hand of the machine, and the attendant,
by turning the screws v, brings the fabric as much forward as. is necessary; for
taking. the second cut. This operation is repeated until the whole. fabric is
cut through. The blade 7 is then detatched from the stud 13, .withdrawn from
the teeth. of the comb, and brought into the right-hand-guide 12, where it
remains till it is again wanted. In taking the last cut, the knife 10 enters
between the two 'plates 11 of the slide i. See Fig. 8. on Sheet 2. These
plates are provided with notches to admit the teeth of the comb, and they are
left so much apart that the knife may pass between them.
on a wooden rail similar to the one marked t in the slide 9.
cut asunder is divided into as many strips as there are sets of warps (without
counting the selvages), and is now converted into "toothed chenille." The.size
which is generally employed causes the strips of toothed chenille to adhere
together, and it is wound on to the roller 18, supported by standards fixed to
the main framing of the machine. The shafts of the rollers a. and 18 are each
provided with a grooved pulley, over which a cord passes! The ends of: the
cords are joined together and attached to springs, which prevent the rollers
turning round too easily. When the whole piece of fabric has been converted
into toothed chenille by the processes above described, and wound' on to the
roller 18, each separate strip of the toothed chenille is rewound on the small
bobbins 19, seen in Fig. 20, ready to be used at the loom, as will be hereafter
explained.
:
"
The above-described machine represents one mode of producing toothed
chenille; but I do not wish to limit myself to this particular mode, as the
same article may be produced in various other ways, as, for instance, by the
aid of the machine shown in section in Fig. 13 of Sheet 2, or by the machine
shewn in Sheet 8. In these machines the hooks d, on the teeth of the comb
(seen in Figs. 4, 6, and 8), and the weft threads B, in the fabric to be con-
verted into toothed chenille; and therefore the metal plates G, G, and. H, H,
of Fig. 1 are dispensed with. The principal difference between the machines
shewn in Fig. 18 and the one already described relates to the means of getting
the fabric on to the teeth of the comb; and I shall therefore only refer parti-
cularly to the parts for performing this operation. The fabric to be converted
into toothed chenille may be provided at one of its selvages with a warp thread,
which is made to enter between the weft threads, and to mark the fabric into
divisions corresponding to the distance between the teeth of the comb. The
selvage of the fabric having the above-mentioned warp thread woven in it
is brought over the blank points of the teeth 21, and the attendant must

page_text: take care that each tooth enters the fabric in the place indicated by the warp
thread. The fabric is then held in that position by the ruler 22, which has
divisions. in it corresponding to the number of teeth in the comb. The ruler
22 is screwed to a rail 23 hinged to the swing frame 24, which moves on a
fulcrum 25. The other selvage of the fabric is caught by the hooks 26, which
are fixed to a plate attached to a cloth passing over the roller 27. The fabric
is stretched to the requisite degree of tension by a weight 28 which is attached
to a cord wound round a pulley. fixed on the end of the shaft of the roller 27:
The fabric is now acted upon by the curved ruler 29, and bent back over the
ruler 22, and over the teeth of the comb. This curved ruler 29 is fixed on
the swing frame 30, moving on the centre 31 and 31*. The ruler 32, similar
to the ruler 22, is fixed to the swing frame 32*, and is now made to act on
the fabric, and brings it properly on to the teeth of the comb. The ruler 22
is then drawn back and the curved ruler 29. also into the position shewn in
red lines, and the fabric is tightened over the ruler 32 by means of the weight
28, already described. The fabric is then again acted upon by the ruler 22,
and pressed on to the comb, and the ruler 32 drawn back into the position
shown in the Drawing. These operations continue to be repeated in the same
way until part of the fabric is folded on the teeth 21 of the comb. The
springs 33 are for the purpose of raising the rulers 22 and 32 when either of
them has been pressed down by the other. When a certain quantity of the
fabric has been folded on to the comb, and the resistance offered by the fabric
on the teeth is too great to be overcome by the action of the rulers 22 and 32;
the ruler 32 and the curved ruler 29 are put on one side, and the pressing
bar 34 is brought down by means of a screw until the metal plates 85, fixed
to the wood rulers 36, which have incisions in them corresponding to the
teeth in the comb, come over the said teeth, and hold them while the ruler 22
is being moved to one side. By continuing the pressure on the bar 84, by
means of the screw above mentioned, the fabric is forced a certain distance
on to the teeth of the comb, and after the pressing bar and its adjuncts have
been raised up again, the process of folding the fabric on the teeth of the
comb continues until the whole is completed. The comb is fixed between two
pieces of wood 87, which are screwed together and united by the bottom plate
39, which serves as an abutment for the teeth of the comb. The pieces of
wood 38 serve to strengthen the teeth of the comb as long as the fabric - is
being pressed on to them. Before, however, the operation of cutting the
chenille commences, the pieces 38 are taken away. and the knife, which is
fixed to the frame 40, is placed through the openings in the teeth, as has
been described with reference to Figs. 4, 5, and 6 of Sheet 1. The method

page_text: of heating and steaming the fabric will be very similar to that mentioned in
describing the other machine, and does not require to be described over. again.
If it should be found more convenient to bring the knife towards the fabric
in the process of cutting, the teeth of the comb would have to be made with
longer openings for the blade of the knife; and the guide for the frame,of
the knife would also have to be made wider. This arrangement would pro-
bably be the most convenient when fabrics of a heavy description are being
operated upon. The bar 41 serves as a handle for the attendant to move the
swing frame 32* backward and forward, and the bar 42 serves to actuate the
swing frame 30.
Having now described two of the methods which may be employed for pre-
paring my new-invented "toothed chenille," I will proceed to explain how this
"toothed chenille," which now forms the prepared weft, is introduced between
the sheds formed by the warps in the loom for reweaving the said toothed
chenille. The weaver or his assistant takes one of the bobbins 19, on which,
as has already been said, a single thread of the toothed chenille is wound, and
after cutting off the first length of chenille, which corresponds in length to the
breadth of the carpet or other fabric required, places it into the instrument
shewn in Figs. 14, 15, 16, 17, and 18. The length of this instrument depends
upon the width of the carpet or other fabric required, and it consists of two
wooden rulers b and c, which are fastened together by the pins o. To the
ruler 6 is screwed the ruler a, by the screws i, and to the ruler c the metal
plate d is screwed by the screws k. The rulers a and b are provided with
diagonal cuts h, which are placed as far apart as the teeth of the comb e,
seen in Fig. 4, 5, and 6. Strips of thin sheet metal p, the breadth of which
is indicated by Fig. 17, and which are bent into the shape shewn in Fig. 18,
are inserted into the space between the rulers a and b, and held fast by them.
The ruler c is provided in several places with the recessed inclined planes n,
and the ruler e has corresponding projections. The ruler flies close to the
ruler e, and in contact with it. This ruler f is guided at each end by the
studs l, and is moved in and out as will be explained hereafter. The points of
the edge of the ruler a, between the diagonal cuts h, are bevelled off to guide
the warp threads into the folds of the plates p when the instrument is intro-
duced into the shed of the warps. The first length of the toothed chenille
having been cut off is placed in the above-described instrument in such wise
that the warp threads of the chenille enter between the plate d and the folds
of the plate p, each division of the toothed chenille being made to enter
between the folds of the plate p. The toothed chenille is pushed into the
instrument until it is brought into contact with the toothed edge of the plate f

page_text: The toothed theme is put into the instrument from the left-hand side, as
seen in Figs. 14 and 16. The assistant places the toothed chenille into the
first compartments, and with his left hand he takes hold of the piece q, seen
in Fig. 19, which has a shoulder r at its broad end of sufficient depth to press
the toothed chenille into the instrument above described when drawn along it
from left to right, the said shoulder being guided by the edge of the plate d
during the operation. In putting the chenille into its place it is necessary to
guide it with the right hand, and push it into the recess between the plate d and
the metal plates p by the piece q. The instrument seen in Fig. 14 is made
with one end shaped like the point of a shuttle. When the toothed chenille
is in the instrument the pointed end of it is inserted into the shed of the warp
which holds the toothed chenille on to the body of the cloth. The weaver
must take care to hold the instrument in such a position that every warp
thread comes opposite one of the diagonal openings h. He must now draw
the instrument towards the cloth, so that the warps enter into the openings h,
and into the folds of the plates p; and by pushing the ruler e in the direction
of the arrow, see Fig. 14, the inclined planes n, by acting on the toothed ruler
f, cause the toothed chenille to leave the instrument, and enter in an upright
position between the warps, each warp entering into one division of a toothed
chenille. After the toothed chenille is put in the warps, and placed near to
or in contact with the other portion of the fabric which had previously been
woven by the same process, the weft for forming the ground or foundation.of
the carpet is put in, and the whole is struck home by the lay or batten in the
usual manner. In some sorts of fabric it is not necessary to introduce a
separate weft for forming the foundation of the same. It will be apparent
from the above description that each division in the toothed chenille admits a
warp thread; consequently all the fibres of the weft are brought to the
surface of the fabric, and as each strip of the toothed chenille is placed in the
warps the pattern or design, if accurately read off, must be reproduced with
the greatest exactitude.
I will now proceed to describe the machine shewn in the Figs. 21, 22, 23,
and 24 of Sheet III. This machine is intended to be used in place of either
of the machines shewn and described in reference to Fig. 4, 5, and 6 on
Sheet I. and Fig. 13 on Sheet II., and it consists in like manner principally
of a comb on which the fabric forming the toothed chenille is folded. When
the selvage of this fabric has been placed over the blunt ends of the teeth
marked 50 in Figs. 21, 22, 23, and 24, the attendant doubles up the whole
of the remaining width of the fabric, and places it into a receiver 51, seen in
Figs. 21 and 24. The teeth 50 are made with narrow slits 68, in which the
knife enters when the fabric is being cut into toothed chenille. During the

page_text: folding of the fabric these slits are below, as seen in Fig. 24, but when the
fabric is all folded on the teeth of the comb they are turned round previous to
the operation of cutting. The receiver 51 consists of the two rulers 52
connected together by the springs 53. These springs allow the rulers to be
separated sufficiently for admitting the fabric, and then collapse to prevent
more of the fabric from coming out than is required for folding on the comb.
When the first width of the fabric forming the toothed chenille is on the teeth
50 the attendant brings the receiver 51, which is now shewn to the right hand
of the teeth, into a corresponding position to the left hand of them, and he
repeats this operation until the whole width of the fabric is on the teeth of
the comb. The grooved rail 54, shewn in Fig. 22, is used occasionally by the
attendant to press down on the teeth that portion of the fabric, which has been
folded up. When so much of the fabric has been folded on to the comb that
the attendant can no longer compress it by hand with the grooved rail 54, he
makes use of the following leverage:-The side levers 55, united together by
the cross rail .56, are hinged to the levers 57,. which vibrate on the studs 58,
and the levers 57 are united by the bar 59. The fabric being now on the
comb, as shewn in Fig. 22, the attendant takes the toothed ruler 60, and
inserts it between the tops of the teeth of the comb. He then places the
grooved rail 54 on the ruler 60, and raises the levers 55 and 57 into the
position shewn by the red lines, the cross rail 56 being brought over the
grooved rail 54. The attendant now presses down the bar 59, and at the same
time the grooved rail 54 and toothed ruler 60 compress the fabric on the
comb. It is sometimes necessary to introduce one or more toothed rulers 61
between the fabric and the teeth of the comb to keep the teeth the proper
distance apart whilst the fabric is being pressed. As soon as the whole
amount of fabric has been folded on the comb by the means above described,
the whole row of teeth 50, forming the comb, is turned upside down, so that
the slit 68 may be uppermost, and the levers 55 and 57 and cross rails 56
and 59 are put in the positions shewn by red lines in Figs. 21 and 22 previous
to the operations of pressing, steaming, and cutting. The pressing is effected
by the attendant turning round the handle 62, see Fig. 21, fixed at one end
of the shaft 63; 'on which are keyed the mitre pinions 64 gearing into similar
pinions fixed to the lower extremity of the bushes 65. The bushes 65 revolve
in the main frame of the machine, and are screwed inside to answer the
purpose of nuts for the screws 66, which are fixed above to the under side of
the moveable box 67, as seen best in Fig. 23,, which shews the position of the
moveable box previous to the operation of cutting, which is performed in a
manner very similar to that already described. When the fabric has been
cut into toothed chenille, it is necessary to replace the comb into its original

page_text: position with the slits 68 downwards. For this purpose I make use of the
rulers 69, see Fig. 24, which are placed at each side of the comb, and between
which the comb is held. One of the rulers 69 is provided above and below
with a metal-toothed ruler similar to the one marked 60 in Fig. 22. In
folding, pressing, and cutting the fabric for making toothed chenille by the
machines just referred to, it is not necessary. to leave a wide space between
each line of the pattern, as it is when the same operations are performed by
the machine in Figs. 4, 5, and 6. I am therefore enabled in reweaving such
toothed chenille to wind it on a bobbin placed in a shuttle of the ordinary
construction, by which.it is introduced into the shed of the warp without, the
aid of the instrument shewn in Figs. 14, 15, and 16, or it may be wound on
to two small rollers. placed in a peculiarly shaped shuttle, as shewn in Figs. 25
and 26, from which the toothed chenille will be unwound during the
travelling, of the shuttle. In this case a ruler having teeth in it like the one
marked 60 would be required for the weaver to raise the toothed chenille into
its proper position: When it has been deposited by the shuttle in the shed of
the warps, the weaver, by placing this ruler in a slanting position under the
toothed chenille, and gradually raising it as he draws it towards him; would
bring the toothed chenille into its proper position between the warps, and with
all the pile to the face of the fabric..
I will now proceed to explain the last part of my Invention, which is appli-
cable to certain descriptions of cut piled fabrics, and is performed during the
process of weaving by introducing between each row of the toothed chenille a
wire of either a flat, round, or other shape, according to the nature of the
fabric under operation. These wires are held in the fabric by a separate
catcher warp, the threads of which are placed at a considerable distance
apart, and these wires serve to keep the fibres of the weft from mixing
together, thereby rendering the pattern produced more exact and distinct.
When these wires are made use of they are introduced into the fabric imme-
diately after the toothed chenille, and then the weft threads are thrown in to
form the foundation. After the fabric is taken from the loom it is washed, if
necessary, and afterwards the wires and the warp threads which held the
wires are all withdrawn from the fabric. And I wish to remark, that although
I have shewn the application of my new-invented toothed chenille to the
making of fabrics having the pile upright, yet I can also produce fabrics
having the pile slanting, as in plush, by means of the same toothed chenille.
Having now described the nature of my said Invention, and the manner
in which it is to be performed, I declare that I do claim as my Invention the
manufacture of a fabric for making chenille, such fabric containing a weft
thread as at B, and loops as at C and D, in Fig. 1.

page_text: Secondly, the folding, pressing, preparing, and cutting of a fabric for
making chenille in order to convert such fabric into toothed chenille by the
aid of a comb, the teeth of which form divisions in the toothed chenille which
may be used for the purposes herein-before described, and the other imple-
ments and appliances herein-before described for aiding in the production of
the said results. And I claim the manufacturing of toothed chenille, as
herein-before described, by any of the three machines herein-before shewn
and referred to, or by any modification of the same.
Thirdly, the instrument shewn and described with reference to Figs. 14, 15,
16, 17, and 18, for introducing the toothed chenille into the warp shed in the
loom when the said toothed chenille is reweaved. And,
Lastly, the use, in manner and for the purposes herein-before described, of
wires when weaving certain cut piled fabrics where the weft forms the pile.
And this my Invention being, to the best of my knowledge and belief,
entirely new, and never before used within that part of Her said Majesty's
United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland called England, Her
Dominion of Wales, and Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, I do hereby declare
this to be my Specification of the same, and that I do verily believe this my
said Specification doth comply in all respects, fully and without reserve or
disguise, with the proviso in the said herein-before in part recited Letters
Patent contained; wherefore I do hereby claim to maintain exclusive right and
privilege to the said Invention.
In witness whereof, I, the said Henry Bernoulli Barlow, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, this Eighteenth day of July, in the year of
Our Lord One thoneand eight hundred and
HENRY BERNOULLI (L.s.) BARLOW.
AND BE IT REMEMBERED, that on the Eighteenth day of July, in
the year of our Lord 1849; the aforesaid Henry Bernoulli Barlow came
before our said Lady the. Queen in Her Chancery, and acknowledged the
Specification aforesaid, and all and every thing therein contained and speci-
fied, in form above written. And also the Specification aforesaid was stamped
according to the tenor of the Statute made for that purpose.
Enrolled the Twentieth day of July, in the year of our Lord One thousand
eight hundred and forty-nine.
"ENxT 'NOLONIHILAA