IMPROVE- MENTS IN SEWING MACHINES
Year: 1882

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Adolphus Guillaume and Augustus Lambert of Fosses
in the Kingdom of Belgium Manufacturers for an Invention of IMPROVE-
MENTS IN SEWING MACHINES
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Adolphus Guillaume and
Augustus Lambert at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on the
23rd December 1882.
ADOLPHUS GUILLAUME and AUGUSTUS LAMBERT of Fosses in the Kingdom of
Belgium Manufacturers " IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES
"
This Invention relates to certain detail improvements in the sewing machine
having a shuttle or bobbin carrier of large diameter capable of containing
800 metres more or less of lower or under thread, described in the specification of
Letters Patent granted to us and dated the 12th day of April 1882 N° 1744.
The principal object of the Invention is to convert the alternate circular or to
and fro motion transmitted to the hook for forming the stitch by the pinion and
the alternating rack, into a continuous rotary motion more regular, simpler and
easier than the said alternate or to and fro motion.
The Invention consists essentially of certain mechanism for forming the stitch
especially the shuttle guide composed of slides fixed in a suitable manner to the
base plate and placed at each side of and above the shuttle in combination with
the shuttle or bobbiu carrier of large diameter, and the shuttle driver composed of
a plate of "trapeze" form on which are mounted two supports placed against the
shuttle and which alternates in a guide of the same shape formed in the slides of
the bobbin carrier guide at one side of the bobbin carrier.
Secondly; of mechanism for forming the stitch consisting of the combination of
the said bobbin carrier guide with a ring fixed in the middle, and of a ring
provided on one side with the hook, and on the other side with a gearing having
a continuous rotary motion in the first ring, and the shuttle or bobbin carrier of
large diameter.
Thirdly; of a gradual diminution of the spiral projection having the hook on its
end for the disengagement of the thread from the hook.
Fourthly; of mechanism for actuating the shuttle or bobbin-carrier driver, also
an arrangement or construction of the said bobbin carrier and rotating mechanism
with gearing placed on the main shaft engaging in another gearing which revolves
in the ring transmitting its motion to the hook.

page_text: Fifthly; of an arrangement of the tension lever having its suspension point
joined to the needle lever.
The improvements further consist of a simplification in the manner of disengaging
the thread from the hook, of an improved shape of the ring in which the latter
revolves; also of a modification of the shuttle driver.
These improvements or modifications effect a simplification of the mechanism in
general whilst at the same time they retain the same or original principle.
The bobbin-carrier guide is composed of longitudinal slides cast in one piece at
the middle with the support which is screwed to the base plate.
A section of the slides presents to the bobbin-carrier its interior side hollowed
out in the form of the arc of a circle with a radius equal to that of the bobbin-
carrier. The slides which are parallel to each other are a sufficient distance apart
to allow of the passage of the two projecting ends of the shuttle driver which are
fixed to a longitudinal plate of "trapeze" form in section, which plate moves to and
fro in a guide of the same shape formed in the outer sides of the slides.
One of the ends of the shuttle driver is a simple bent rod whose rounded point
rests in a slight hollow in the outer part or exterior of the bobbin carrier or shuttle.
The other end is provided with two spherical projections which take into two
small corresponding hollows in the back part of the bobbin carrier in such manner
that the latter after having been adjusted between the two ends (with a certain
amount of play allowed) cannot turn of itself whilst running to and fro.
Supplementary slides of the shuttle or bobbin carrier guide are placed at the
other side of the shuttle and are composed of a simple piece of the same shape as
those before mentioned and are fixed to one or more supports. A third part of
these slides may be fixed above the shuttle to the sliding door in the base plate so
that the shuttle cannot rise up or shift in the guide.
In the middle of the shuttle driver and fixed to the alternating plate is an arm
having a fork at its end in which acts the roller of a lever arm oscillating on a
pivot fixed to the base plate, the other arm of the lever which is also provided
with a roller being oscillated by the spiral groove of the sleeve fixed on the main
Bhaft.
In the middle of the shuttle guide at its flat part is fixed a cylindrical ring the
slides having a suitable opening or space left for that purpose. In this cylindrical
ring is adjusted a second cylindrical ring revolving freely in the first ring and
having at one side the hook whose projection is formed in a spiral for about half
its diameter.
At the other side of the second cylindrical ring is fixed a gear wheel which
engages with another wheel fixed on the main shaft thus transmitting the rotary
notion to the hook.
A spiral groove on the sleeve or cam on the main shaft communicates the
ascending and descending movement to the needle through the elbow lever at the
end of which is a roller engaging into the said cam.
The main shaft revolves in two bearings suitably fixed to the base plate and
receives its rotary motion from a band or strap passed over a pulley fixed onto it
or in any other known manner.
The feed appliance for carrying the cloth or material over the machine is placed
under the base plate and receives a to and fro motion, and an up and down motion
from a pivot placed eccentrically at the front end of the main shaft and a spiral
spring. The eccentric pivot acts in an oblong notch made in the support of the
cloth carrier.
The construction of the tension lever is also replaced by a more effectual and
easy movement its pivot being placed in the middle of the machine frame and its
suspension point is joined to the needle carrier lever. In this way we are enabled
to employ any size tension lever as desired or found necessary.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said Adolphus Guillaume and Augustus Lambert in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 20th June 1883.
ADOLPHUS GUILLAUME and AUGUSTUS LAMBERT of Fosses in the Kingdom of
Belgium [Manufacturers] IMPROVEMENTS IN SEWING MACHINES
This Invention relates to certain detail improvements in the sewing machine
having a shuttle or bobbin carrier of large diameter capable of containing 800 metres
more or less of lower or under thread described in the specification of Letters
Patent granted to us and dated the 12th day of April 1882 N° 1744
The principal object of the invention is to convert the alternate circular or to
and fro motion transmitted to the hook for forming the stitch by the pinion and
the alternating rack into a continuous rotary motion more regular, simpler and
easier than the said alternate or to and fro motion.
The improvements further consist of a simplification in the manner of disengaging
the thread from the hook and of an improved shape of the ring in which the
latter revolves also of a modification of the shuttle driver
These improvements or modifications effect a simplification of the mechanism in
general whilst at the same time they retain the same or original principle. They
are represented in the sheet of annexed drawings in which Figure 1 is a plan
view. Figure 2 a longitudinal elevation partly in section and Figure 3 a front or
face view. Figures 4 and 5 show the arrangement of bobbin carrier guide on a
larger scale. Figure 6 a section of the hook with its accessory parts and Figures 4,
7, 8 and 9 the mechanism for forming the stitch at different parts of the working.
The bobbin carrier guide is composed of longitudinal slides B cast in one piece
at the middle with the support B₁ which is screwed to the base plate A. The
section of the slides shown at Figures 3 and 4 presents to the bobbin carrier its
interior side hollowed out in the form of the arc of a circle with a radius equal to
that of the bobbin carrier. The slides which are parallel with each other are a
sufficient distance apart to allow of the passage of the two projecting ends e¹ ell
of the shuttle driver which are fixed to a longitudinal plate e of trapeze form in
section which plate moves to and fro in a guide of the same shape formed in the
outer sides of the slides B as shown in Figures 3 and 4.
One of the ends of the shuttle driver is a simple bent rod e¹ whose rounded
point rests in a slight hollow in the outer part or exterior of the bobbin carrier or
shuttle. The other end e¹¹ is provided with two spherical projections which take
into two small corresponding hollows in the back part of the bobbin carrier
(Figure 1) in such manner that the latter after having been adjusted between the
two ends e e (with a certain amount of play allowed) cannot turn of itself whilst
running to and fro.
The supplementary slides (see Figure 3) of the shuttle or bobbin carrier guide
placed at the other side of the shuttle are composed of a simple piece of the same
shape as those before mentioned and are fixed to one or more supports similar
to B¹
A third part of these slides may be fixed above the shuttle to the sliding
door in the base plate A so that the shuttle cannot rise up or shift in the guide.
In the middle of the shuttle driver and fixed to the alternating plate e is an
arm E (Figures 1, 2 and 3) having a fork at its end in which acts the roller of a
lever arm F oscillating on a pivot fixed to the base plate the other arm F' of the
lever which is also provided with a roller being oscillated by the spiral groove of
the sleeve L fixed on the main shaft.
In the middle of the shuttle guide at its flat portion is fixed the cylindrical

page_text: ring C, the slides B (Figures 1 and 5) having a suitable opening or space left for
that purpose. In this cylindrical ring is adjusted a second cylindrical ring c¹
revolving freely in the first ring and having at one side the hook whose projection
is formed in a spiral for about half its diameter.
At the other side of the ring C₁ is fixed the gearing wheel D which engages with
the gearing wheel D' fixed on the main shaft, thus transmitting the rotary motion
to the hook d.
The spiral groove on the sleeve L¹ or cam on the main shaft communicates the
ascending and descending movement to the needle through the elbow lever H at
the end of which is a roller engaging into the said cam.
The main shaft revolves in two bearings K suitably fixed to the base plate and
receives its rotary motion from a band or strap passed over a pulley fixed on to it
or in any other known manner.
The feed appliance for carrying the cloth or material over the machine is not
shown in the drawings it is placed under the base plate and receives a to and fro
motion and an up and down motion from a pivot placed eccentrically at the front
end of the main shaft and a spiral spring. The eccentric pivot acts in an oblong
notch made in the support of the cloth carrier.
Supposing the needle has descended as shown in Figure 4 and has formed a
loop under the cloth or material by a little ascending movement in the ordinary
manner, the loop is now taken up by the hook d which advances and leaves the
position (shown in Figure 4) which it occupies at this moment and is enlarged or
opened out in such a manner that a part of the thread is carried round on the pro-
jecting portion on the end of which is the hook whilst the other part of the thread
being placed in a twisted state in front of the ring takes the form of a segment
as shown in Figure 7. When the hook has arrived in this position the shuttle
advances and its point penetrates the enlarged mesh and passes through it. The
thread now disengages itself from the hook by simply sliding off the diminishing
spiral portion of the hook. This movement is exceedingly regular and easy. The
shuttle is at this moment surrounded by the mesh as at Figure 8 and passes
through it; the latter then slides into between the shuttle driver and the back
part of the shuttle and is then completely disengaged (as shown in Figure 9)
through the action of the tension lever M which continues its ascending movement
until the stitch is drawn tight.
The hook has then completed its travel and the shuttle has returned to its first
position to recommence the movement.
The construction of the tension lever M is also replaced by a more effectual and
easy movement, its pivot being placed in the middle of the machine frame and
its suspension point is joined to the needle carrier lever as shown in Figure 2.
In this way we are enabled to employ any size tension lever as desired or found
necessary.
Having now described the nature of our said invention and in what manner the
same is to be performed We declare that We Claim
First In sewing machines; the mechanism for forming the stitch especially the
shuttle guide composed of slides B fixed in a suitable manner to the base plate A,
and placed at each side of and above the shuttle in combination with the shuttle
or bobbin carrier of large diameter, and the shuttle driver composed of a plate e of
" trapeze" form on which are mounted two supports el ell placed against the shuttle
and which alternates in a guide of the same shape formed in the slides of the
bobbin carrier guide, at one side of the bobbin carrier as above described and
shown in the sheet of annexed drawings.
Secondly In the mechanism for forming the stitch, the combination of the said
bobbin carrier guide with the ring C fixed in the middle the ring C¹ provided on
one side with the hook d and on the other side with the gearing D having a con-
tinuous rotary motion in the ring C and the shuttle or bobbin carrier of large
diameter as above described and shown in the annexed drawings.

page_text: Thirdly The gradual diminution of the spiral projection having the hook ɗ on
its end, for the disengagement of the thread from the hook as described.
Fourthly In the arrangement shown :-
a The mechanism for actuating the shuttle or bobbin carrier driver also the
arrangement or construction of the said bobbin carrier b The rotating mechanism
composed of the gearing D¹ placed on the main shaft engaging in the gearing D
which revolves in the ring C transmitting its motion to the hook d
Fifthly The arrangement of the tension lever M having its suspension point
joined to the needle lever as described.
Sixthly The general arrangement of the sewing machine as above described and
shown in the annexed drawings.
In witness whereof we the said Adolphus Guillaume and Augustus Lambert
have hereunto set our hands and seals this Second day of June in the
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and eighty three.
ADOLPHE GUILLAUME (L.S.)
AUGUSTE LAMBERT
(L.S.)