Improvements in the Manufacture of Fustians, such as Cords, Genoas, Thicksetts, and Constitution Cloths.
Year: 1888

page_text: Date of Application, 18th Dec., 1888
Complete Specification Left, 6th Sept., 1889-Accepted, 12th Oct.,
1889
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Fustians, such as Cords,
Genoas, Thicksetts, and Constitution Cloths.
I, SHACKLETON HELLIWELL, Manager of the Colden and Hebden Company Limited,
Lee Mill, Hebden Bridge, in the County of York, Manufacturers, do hereby declare
the nature of this invention to be as follows:-
The object of my invention is to produce a new and improved effect on the face
of fustian cloths, the new improvement consisting in forming elevated checks, squares,
or other like shapes on the face of the fabric.
In carrying out my invention I employ a suitable form of loom, and make two
picks or more together or in succession; and this is done with the healds treading
what are commonly called double sheds, that is to say, with one half of the warp
up and the other half of the warp down after the manner of weaving ordinary
plain and twill back cloths. The effect of this method of weaving is to ensure
that those shoots of weft so picked are depressed, whilst the face picks are more
prominent or elevated, consequently when the cutting knife is inserted to cut the
cord, these depressed picks remain uncut, while the face picks are cut, by which means
squares and checks or other like figures are produced on the face of the fabric,
presenting an entirely new and effective appearance on fustians.
Dated this 17th day of December 1888.
TASKER & CROSSLEY,
Halifax, Agents.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Fustians, such as Cords,
Genoas, Thicksetts, and Constitution Cloths.
I, SHACKLETON HELLIWELL, Manager of the Colden and Hebden Company Limited,
Lee Mill, Hebden Bridge, in the County of York, Manufacturers, do hereby declare
the nature of this invention and in what manner the same is to be performed, to
be particularly described and ascertained in and by the following statement :-
The object of my invention is to produce a new and improved effect on the face
of fustian cloths, the new improvement consisting in forming elevated checks, squares,
or other like shapes on the face of the fabric.
In carrying out my invention I employ a suitable form of loom, and make two
or more picks together or in succession; and this is done with the healds treading
what are commonly called double sheds, that is to say, with one half of the warp
up and the other half of the warp down after the manner of weaving ordinary
plain and twill back cloths; the effect of this method of weaving is to ensure that
the shoots of weft so picked are depressed, or held down by the warp, whilst the
face picks are more prominent or elevated, consequently when the cutting knife is
inserted to cut the cord, theso depressed picks remain uncut while the face picks are
cut, forming the pile thereby.
In order to make clear the nature of my invention, I will endeavour to explain
it more fully, by the aid of the accompanying diagram, wherein a represents the
warp and the weft threads. In making this fabric two or more shoots of weft b
are sent across the loom and held down by the warp; afterwards a larger number
of picks c are made, held down at intervals by the warp a, forming squares or
other rectangular figures. The weft marked c lies on the face of the fabric, and
when the cutting knives are introduced as indicated by arrows, the weft on the
face is cut, forming a pile. It will therefore be seen that the face picks are

page_text: produced by the weft floating over the warp held down and made secure by a small
proportion of the said warp; the lines of demarcation between the squares or figures
being produced by depressed picks or weft held down by the warp; by which means
an entirely new and effective appearance is produced in fustians.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what I
claim is :-
The manufacture of fustians, such as cords, Genoas, thicksetts, and constitution
cloths, where two or more depressed picks are combined with any number of
face picks which are afterwards cut to form the pile in squares and other rectangular
figures.
Ja
1000
TASKER & CROSSLEY,
Halifax, Agents.