CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN BOOTS, SHOES, AND CLOGS, AND IN THE PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATIONRY APPARATUS AND MATERIALS CONNECTEDREWI
Year: 1853

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Julian Bernard, of Guildford Street, Russell
Square, in the County of Middlesex, Gentleman, for the Invention
of "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN BOOTS, SHOES, AND CLOGS, AND IN THE
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Julian Bernard
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition,
on the 29th March 1853.
I, JULIAN BERNARD, of Guildford Street, Russell Square, in the
County of Middlesex, Gentleman, do hereby declare the nature of
the said Invention for "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN BOOTS, SHOES, AND
CLOGS, AND IN THE MACHINERY OR APPARATUS AND MATERIALS CONNECTED
THEREWITH," to be as follows:-
CUTTING, PRESSING, SHAPING, AND ORNAMENTING.
An improved mode of cutting out the soles and upper leather of boots
and shoes consist in putting the leather to be cut between two metal

page_text: peripheries perforated by a series of holes corresponding in size and
shape to the pieces of leather required; the circumference of the other
roller is fitted with a corresponding number of projections, which fit
accurately into the several openings in the other. It is obvious that
by inserting a piece of leather between these rollers, and gearing them
together, the action of the projection of one roller entering the corre-
sponding openings of the other will have the effect of forcing or punching
out pieces of leather of a corresponding shape, which fall through into
the interior of the hollow cylinder.. By. a modification of the above
principle to a press, the process may be effected by causing a die to
descend into an aperture corresponding in size and shape to the piece
of leather required. The soles, heels, and upper leathers may also be
cut out by punches whose cutting edges are protected from injury
by inserting a spring inside the punch, which has the effect of protecting
the edges of the punch. By having a moveable die inside the punch
actuated by a strong spring, it is obvious that designs may be imparted
to the leather during the operation of cutting.
SECURING OR ATTACHING THE SOLES AND HEELS TO THE UPPER LEATHERS.
When screws, rivets, pegs, or similar fastenings are employed, the
herein-after described machinery is used for inserting them. The boot
or shoe is placed in a metal frame, which is caused to traverse in a
certain course corresponding with the curves of the sole of the shoe,
and the angles at which the fastenings are to be inserted, by cam and
rack movements. In another portion of this machine is fitted the
following instruments, arranged over or opposite the sole :-A piercer,
plyers (or hollow spindle), a shear, a revolving file, and a hammer.
These various instruments are arranged segmentally in a suitable frame,
which works on a fixed centre, each instrument being brought in suc-
cession over that portion of the sole or heel about to be pegged or
screwed. A rotary movement may be communicated to such of the
above instruments as may be found requisite, by means of wheels, which
receive their movements from corresponding wheels on the vertical
shaft, which forms the fixed centre of the frame containing the instru-
On the revolving instrument is placed a pinion which gears
inents.

page_text: into and receives a rotary movement from the wheels herein-before
mentioned. The necessary vertical movement is given to the various
instruments by levers and cams. Above this mechanism, and working
in conjunction with it, is fitted one or more wheels, which receive an
intermittent movement from detents. This wheel works horizontally
over the hollow spindle or plyers, and it contains as many holes as there
are screws or pegs to be inserted into the sole. The holes having been
cach supplied with a screw or peg, they are brought in succession over
the hollow spindle or plyers, by means of the detent herein-before
mentioned; or the pegs may be all arranged in a tapering compartment,
and pushed, by means of a spring, over the hollow spindle, in succession,
and forced into the hole in the spindle by means of a bent lever worked
by a cam. A spring, which is fitted to the framing carrying the instru-
ment, projects underneath the extremity of the spindle; this spring
prevents the peg or fastening from falling entirely through the spindle,
but allows as much to protrude through the spindle as is to be inserted
into the sole or heel. On the spindle is fitted a collar, which is made to
rise and fall, when requisite, by a cam and lever; this collar embraces
the lower extremity of the spindle, which is conical and slotted. By
raising this collar, the conical end of the spindle will be contracted;
thereby securely holding the peg or screw to be inserted. The hollow
spindle, with its screw, is now brought directly over the hole previously
punctured in the sole or heel by the piercer herein-before mentioned.
The collar and spindle now descend simultaneously, and in their descent
force aside the spring, and insert the fastening in the hole made by the
piercer. When screws are used, and when the spindle has made the
requisite number of revolutions to effect its insertion, the collar descends
through the intervention of its lever and cam, thus causing the nipper
or plyer to release the head of the screw.
The collar and spindle now
descend, and the shear, coming into action, effectually cuts off the pro-
truding head of the screw. To remove the piece cut off, and prevent it
interfering with the action of the instruments, a blast of air may
be employed, which may be produced by a suitable bellows or pump,
and conveyed through a tube to the place of action. It is obvious that
a spring may be employed for effecting the same purpose. The frame,

page_text: carrying the instrument, is now made to move on its centre a sufficient
distance to bring the file or rasping instrument over the screw last
inserted, the revolutions of the file effectually reducing the head of the
screw; the hammer, by a similar movement of the frame, is now brought
over the screw, and made to descend by a spring or cam, thereby
rivetting the screw and compressing the sole. The frame is now made
to move so as to bring the piercer to the exact position which it
occupied at the commencement of the operation herein-before described.
In the meantime the shoe is moved by the mechanism herein-before
referred to, and the place for the insertion of the next nail or screw is
brought directly under the piercer, in which position it remains until
the requisite instruments have successively been brought to bear upon it.
The several movements herein-before referred to are repeated until all
the nails or screws have been inserted in the boot or shoe.
I propose
to use pegs of cured gutta percha; and when such pegs, or pegs of wood
or flexible material, is used, I propose to use a glue or cement.
necessary portion of cement is put into the hole with the peg, and may
be done in the following manner :-In the same frame which contains
the piercer and the instruments, actuated in a similar manner, may be
placed in a hollow spindle, the bore of which is smaller at the end next
the shoe in this spindle or instrument may be placed the cement or
glue to be used. The instrument being brought directly over the hole
made by the piercer, a sufficient quantity of glue may be expelled from
it by means of a proper valve and pump.
The
If the cement at all requires to be heated it may be done in the
following manner: A steam jacket or chamber may surround the
hollow spindle, by which means the glue will be kept hot. The steam
may be conveyed to the jacket by means of a flexible tube, and when
pegs are used, I prefer to insert such pegs by percussion.
The soles or heels may be sprigged by perforated slides containing
mandrils and piercers, by means of pressure, previous to putting them on
the shoe. When the soles of boots and shoes are put on by means of
cement, the last containing the shoc is put underneath the piston of a
press, and subjected to pressure. A flexible bag containing fluid, or
a sheet of caoutchouc, may be laid on the sole to be pressed, thereby

page_text: equalizing the pressure and protecting the sole from injury. The shoe
may rest during the process of pressing on a bag containing water or
other liquid; the last being held in the required position by a stud
or screw. The pressure best adapted for this purpose is hydraulic
pressure, and may be obtained by arranging one or more rams or
pistons in a frame, by which means a number of shoes may be pressed
simultaneously.
The heels or soles may be made thinner or bevelled at any particular
part desired, in the following manner :-The sole or heel is laid over a
suitable die raised above the surface of the table on which it is placed.
The surface of this die is formed convex. A hinged piece is connected
to the table, and is formed with a hole corresponding in shape to the
die, but rather smaller. When this piece is brought down on to
the die it presses the edges of the leather, and allows its middle portion
to protrude above the surface of the hinged piece, according to the cur-
vature of the die. The workman now removes the protruding portions
of the sole or heel with a cut of a knife level with the surface of the
hinged piece referred to, thereby forming a sole or heel of the varying
thicknesses required.
When the edges are to be bevelled or cut, the pressing piece or
holder referred to is made to press upon the middle of the material,
instead of the edges, as previously described.
Another portion of my improvements consists of a novel mode of
beating or hardening leather by using a hammer or hammers, mounted
in a suitable framing, and actuated by cams or eccentrics and springs
similar to some of the forging machines now in use; or the said hammers
may be worked by the direct action of steam. And I propose to arrange
such hammers obliquely in suitable bearings, so that the portion of the
leather beat by the edges of each hammer is made to come underneath
the next hammer to it, by which means the leather is more evenly and
regularly hammered.
Another part of my improvements relates to and consists of intro-
ducing steam, for the purpose of heating, into various tools used in the
process of manufacturing boots and shoes, such as finishing tools used
in polishing the soles and heels, and also for tools used for pressing and

page_text: sinoothing the seams and other parts, and into lasts, during the process
of manufacture.
I also propose to dry or desecate boots and shoes by means of steam
or hot air, in order that they may be manufactured with greater
rapidity.
Another portion of my improvements consists in a novel mode of
treating or securing the soles and heels of boots and shoes; the back
part of the uppers, technically termed the counters, and generally
consists in an outer and inner counter, a stifner, and lining; and my
improvements consists in securing such parts in the seat or tread, and
to the soles and heels, in the following manner :-Instead of securing
by pegs or stitches the said parts first to the inner sole, I place a piece
or pieces upon the inner sole, and which are made to taper towards the
centre; and such piece or pieces may have curves or undulations formed
in its outer edges, increasing in depth towards the top of such pieces;
the heel is also made with similar curves or undulations; the counters,
stiffner, and lining are then placed between the heel so formed and the
pieces referred to, and the heel and inner sole secured together. The
effect of this arrangement will be that the counters being secured in a
more upright position they will be more firm in the seat, and less liable
to run over, and the necessity for scoring obviated, in bracing the boot
or shoe, as at present practised in making pegged boots or shoes.
And I propose to use plastic material, such as gutta percha, to form
the piece immediately over the inner sole, and beneath the counter and
other parts referred to. And I also propose to use for the heels of
boots and shoes, wood, previously made of the required form; and
to preserve such heels, and to prevent them from absorbing moisture,
I charge them, under any convenient pressure, with gutta percha or
caoutchouc; and such heels may be attached by plastic material, accord-
ing to the process already patented by me, or by any other convenient
or known means already practised. And I also propose to charge the
materials composing the heels and soles of clogs, whether made of wood
or leather, with caoutchouc or gutta percha, in a similar manner to that
above described.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Julian Bernard, in the Great Seal Patent Office,
on the 29th September 1853.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I,
JULIAN BERNARD, of Guildford Street, Russell Square, in the County
of Middlesex, Gentleman, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Twenty-ninth day of March, in the
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-three, in the
sixteenth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors,
give and grant unto me, the said Julian Bernard, Her special licence
that I, the said Julian Bernard, my executors, administrators, and
assigns, or such others as I, the said Julian Bernard, my executors,
administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree with, and no
others, from time to time and at all times thereafter during the term
therein expressed, should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and
vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, the
Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for "CERTAIN IM-
PROVEMENTS IN BOOTS, SHOES, AND CLOGS, AND IN THE MACHINERY OR
APPARATUS AND MATERIALS CONNECTED THEREWITH," upon the condition
(amongst others) that I, the said Julian Bernard, by an instrument in
writing under my hand and seal, should. particularly describe and as-
certain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same
was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal
Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately after the
date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Julian Bernard, do hereby de-
clare the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is
to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by
the following statement, reference being had to the accompanying
Drawings, and to the letters and figures marked thereon, that is to say:
My said Invention relates to, and consists of,-
Firstly, a certain novel self-acting mechanical arrangement and
combination for inserting screws in the soles and heels of boots and

page_text: shoes, for the purpose of attaching such parts to the upper and inner
soles, part of which mechanical arrangement and combination, with and
by the modification set forth and illustrated, is applicable to a novel
mode of inserting pegs alone, or in combination with glue or cement, and
also sparables, nails, or similar fastenings, by percussion or by pressure,
as described, whether the same be used for attaching the bottoms to the
uppers, or increasing the durability of the shoe.
Secondly, my Invention relates to and consists of certain novel
mechanical arrangements for hammering or or beating the leather used
for the soles and heels of boots and shoes, as described, and of com-
bining two or more hammers in the same framing.
Thirdly, to certain novel mechanical arrangements and combinations
for cutting or puncturing the soles and other parts of boots and shoes,
as described.
Fourthly, to a novel mechanical arrangement and means for attaching
the outer soles and heels to boots and shoes when such soles or heels
are to be attached or united by any suitable adhesive substance, when
the uppers of such boots and shoes are made of leather or other fabrics,
either alone or combined.
Fifthly, to a novel mode of bevilling or reducing different parts used
in the manufacture of boots and shoes, at any required part, as described
and set forth.
Sixthly, to the use and application of steam for the purpose of
heating various parts and implements used in the manufacture of
boots and shoes.
Seventhly, to drying boots and shoes made of leather or fabrics,
alone or combined, by means of heated air or steam, in suitable
chambers or compartments for that purpose.
Eighthly, to a novel mode of treating the counters of boots and shoes,
and securing them to the other parts.
Ninthly, to the use and application of wooden heels, charged or
impregnated with caoutchouc or gutta percha, whether separately or
combined with other materials, for boots and shoes.
Tenthly, to improvements in clogs, which consist in charging the
heels and other parts made of wood with caoutchouc or gutta percha,
whether the same be used alone, or combined with other materials.

page_text: First Machine. Figure 1, on Sheet 1, of my drawings, represents a
side elevation of a machine for inserting screws or other fastenings,
such as pegs or sparables, in the soles and heels of boots and shoes,
whether for the purpose of fastening the same to the uppers and inner
soles, or increasing their durability in wearing. And Figures 2, 3, 4, 5,
6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, and 16, represent various details and
modifications of parts of the same machine. A, represents a fly wheel;
B, and B 1, fast and loose pulleys, placed upon the shaft C, which carries
a bevilled pinion D, gearing into the bevilled wheel E, which is made
fast upon the upright shaft F. This shaft is carried in bearings at G, G,
and has a cam or wiper made fast upon it, which is made to act upon
the pall H, by means of which an intermittent motion is imparted to
the ratchet wheel I, shaft J, mitre wheels K, K, shaft L, and
pinion M, and M 1, through the toothed wheel N, to the shaft O, on
which is keyed the double cam P, and P'. The shaft O, has loose upon
it the toothed wheel Q, and mitre wheel R, which are fastened
together, and are in gear with the pinions M', transmitting motion
through the mitre wheel S, and universal joint connection T, to the
double cam U, and U'. These cams are made fast together with the
wheel W, upon a spindle passing through the bracket X, along the
dotted lines. This wheel W, takes into an intermediate wheel Y, and
gears with the pinion Z, which is made fast upon the spindle ❝,
connected by an universal joint to the spindle b. This spindle has fixed
upon it a pinion which is in connection with a toothed rack, shewn
more clearly at Figures 14, and 15. The rack is made fast to the
cross side c, which is traversed by means of the pinion fixed upon the
connection b, and caused to travel backwards and forwards, as required,
through the grooves of the piece d, which is made fast to the upright
slide e. The slide e, is moved up and down, as required, by the incline
or cam U, in or on the piece f, which is made fast upon the end
of the shaft O, and which is made to move with the slide f, and
parts connected therewith, according to the design of the cam or
incline P, which is kept in forced contact with the stud g, by means of
the spring h, and lever i. There are brackets j, firmly secured to the
travelling slide c, in which is placed, in suitable bearings, a frame for

page_text: holding the boot or shoe during the operation of securing the sole to the
other parts thereof. This arrangement is shewn more clearly, and partly
in section, at Fig. 2, where A, A, represent the end of the brackets; and
B, B, the frame in section, in which is shewn a last, with a shoe placed
upon it, held as shewn in the drawings. The piece C, is placed upon a
centre pin D, for the purpose of enabling the boot or shoe to be readily
removed from the frame. The screw pins E, are for the purpose of hold-
ing the last, with the boot or shoe upon it, firmly in the frame, and
fixing them against the plate F, the edge of which is made to project
slightly over the edge of the sole, and hold it pressed upon the other
parts until the several fastenings are inserted.
Pieces G, G, are fixed upon the turned ends of the frame B, B;
these pieces are shewn dotted, and fit over pins H, H, placed on the
ends of the levers I, I, which work on a centre pin at I, I; these
levers are connected by a rod K, as shewn, and are held in contact
with the cam or incline U', at **, by. means of the rod L, and a spring
not shewn in the drawing.
At Fig. 16, is shewn a lever A, placed upon a centre pin at B, in the
framing of the machine, and moving the boot or shoe according to the
design of the cam P', which is in contact with the stud C, as shewn:
The other end of the lever is connected by the rod D, and pin E, to the
slide F, the same being loose upon the shaft O, to enable the requisite
motion to be imparted to it.
The shaft F, carries and supports other parts of the machine, details
and modifications of which are shewn at Figs. 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10,
11, 12, and 13, and is for the purpose of piercing the shoe, and insert-
ing the fastenings.
While the part previously described is for the purpose of moving or
traversing the boot r shoe at the proper place and angle at which the
fastenings are inserted, as, for example, the length of travel from the
toe to the heel, is imparted to it by means of the rack and pinion
already described. and shewn at Figs. 14, and 15, while all the other
differential motions are imparted to it by the cams or inclines P, P', and
U, U. On the shaft F, are made fast cams or inclines A 1, and com-
pound cams B 1, and C. 1; it also supports the plates D 1, E 1, F. 1,

page_text: and G 1, which form the framing of this part of the machine, and
are connected together with the studs H 1, H2, H3, H4, H 5. This
framing is loose or free to oscillate laterally upon the shaft F, and
carries the following instruments:-A piercer, a hollow pliers or
nippers, and a pair of shears; the two first of which are placed in
the framing at the dotted lines which form the segment, of which
the shaft F, is the centre, as shewn at Fig. 4. These instruments
are shewn more clearly at Figs. 2, 3, 10, 11, 12, and 13. A toothed
wheel I', is keyed on to the shaft F, and transmits motion through
the intermediate wheel K 1, to the pinion L-1, and wheel N, which
gear into the pinions N 1, and N 2, and impart a rotary motion
to the piercer M, and hollow spindle N, Fig, 2. A feather is formed
upon these spindles, not shewn in the drawings, which passes through
the pinions M 1, N 2, and allow them to slide upon the spindles when
said spindles are made to ascend or descend, as required.
The hollow conical spindle shewn in the framing is for the purpose of
inserting screws into boots and shoes, and is shewn, with its collar b, on
an enlarged scale at Fig. 3; and when the machine is used for the
purpose of inserting screws, a shear is attached to it, as shewn, and more
particularly represented at Figs. 10, 11, 12, 13, which shear is for the
purpose of cutting off the superfluous ends of the screws.
A compartment on the top of the plate, G 1, is for the purpose of
holding the screws or pegs to be used; a plan of this compartment is
shewn at Fig. 6, where A, represents a space filled with fastenings,
and B, a helical spring, for the purpose of pressing the fastenings
through the narrow channel C, and through which one fastening can
only pass at a time, and is made to enter a slot, not shewn in the draw-
ing, in tapered tube C 1, immediately over the hollow spindle previously
described. Fig. 7, is a partial elevation in section of a hammer and tube
as it would appear taken across the dotted lines a, b, in Fig. 4; and
Fig. 8, represents a cross section of Fig. 7, at a, b.
This hammer is for inserting pegs, sparables, or similar fastenings; and
when such fastenings are to be inserted, the hammer c, and tube or hollow
spindle d, shewn at Fig. 7, are to be substituted for the tube a, and collar b,
Fig. 3, and the shears shewn at Figs. 1, 2, and 11, dispensed with.

page_text: A cistern or vessel, Fig. 9, is also used, shewn in section, for the pur-
pose of employing glue or cement in connection with the fastenings,
when found desirable, and which glue is conveyed to the fastenings or
hole in which they are inserted, by means of the tube e, e, which enters
the hollow spindle d, at f, as shewn.
Fig. 4, represents a plan of the Plate E 1, Fig. 1, shewing the
cam Q', which is for the purpose of bringing the spindle containing
the fastening immediately over the hole in the sole of the boot or shoe
after it has been made by the piercer M, which is effected by means of
the cam Q1, the edge of which is in contact with the rubber or stud 2,
secured to the lever 3, the centre of which is a stud at 4, while the
other is connected to the moveable framing by a link 5, as shewn. The
operation of the machine is as follows:-Supposing motion to be con-
veyed, by any convenient prime mover, through the fast pulley B 1,
-shaft C, and F, as shewn, the effect will be that the double cam or in-
cline B 1, will raise the end of the lever 1, which is held in contact
with it by a spring, as shewn in the drawing, and depresses the other or
forked end, which fits loosely in the collar 5, the same being fast upon
the piercer. By these means the piercer is made to descend and pierce
or puncture a hole in the shoe the piercer and forked end of the lever
are now made to ascend by means of the spring, as shewn; the framing
containing the several instruments described is then moved by the cam
Q1, as shewn, so as to bring the hollow spindle containing the screw or
other fastening directly over the hole made by the piecer, as already
described. A number of fastenings being placed or arranged, as
already described, on the top of the framing G 1, and shewn at
Figure 6, the end next the cam a, of the lever 5, by means of its cam,
causes a fastening to descend in the hollow spindle N, by means of the
pin O, till it comes in contact with a spring, as shewn at Figure 10; the
conical collar or spindle b, shewn at Figure 3, is then caused to ascend
by means of the cam C 1, and lever 3, and close the hollow spindle a,
which is slit at the point, as shewn at Figure 3. The hollow spindle
and conical collar are then caused to descend, and pushing aside the
spring a, shewn at Figure 10, by means of the cam B 1, and lever 2,
while at the same time the spindle and collar, with the screw projecting

page_text: from it, are made to revolve during the descent, by means of the pinion
N 1, and in this manner the screw is inserted into the boot or shoe, the
incline on the cam at Figure 5, corresponding to the length of screw
inserted, and is travelled the necessary distance with the required num-
ber of revolutions of the spindle necessary for inserting the screw. The
conical spindle b, is now made to descend, so as to cause the spindle a,
to loose its hold of the screw, when both the spindle and the collar are
caused to ascend by means of springs (one only of which are shewn) on the
collar b, at Figure 2; the screw being thus inserted, the part projecting
out of the sole is then cut off by means of the shears, which is acted
upon for that purpose by the lever a, spring b, and cam c, as more
clearly shewn at Figure 11, which lever is marked 4, in Figure 1,
the cam c, not being seen at Figure 1. The frame containing the shoo
is then moved by the means and in the manner herein-before particu-
larly described and represented, until the place for puncturing the next
hole is made to come beneath the piecer or puncturing instrument,
and then the same operation herein-before described is repeated until
the requisite number of fastenings are inserted into the boot or shoe.
When pegs or sparabels are used for fastening, or inserted into boots
or shoes, the arrangement shewn at Figures 7, and 8, are substituted
for the spindles and collar used for inserting the screws, and the shear
for nipping the heads off is dispensed with, as also the pinion N 1,
which is used for the purpose of giving a rotatory motion to the spindle
a, as herein-before described.
And I would direct particular attention to the said Figures, as they
illustrate, together with the following description, important additions
to and modifications of this part or head of my Invention. When
pegs, spanables, spriggs, or nails are used, whether for the purpose of
attaching the parts already described, or for the purpose of increasing
the resistance to wear, they are made to descend in the manner already
described in reference to the screws, while they are inserted in the boot
or shoe by means of the hammer c, Figure 7, which is caused in its
descent to come immediately over the peg or sparabel by means of the
inclined slot g, and pin h, as shewn at Figure 7. When the hammer is
directly over the peg or sparabel, it may be made to descend either by

page_text: gradual pressure or by percussion, which may be effected by giving the
requisite form to the cam shewn for actuating the lever 4, for the pur-
pose of moving the conical collar or spindle b, as required, but which,
when the hammer and spindle shewn at Figure 7, are put in the
framing, may be used for giving the requisite motion to said hammer,
whether gradually moved downwards by means of incline, and the
fastenings pressed down in the sole, or whether such fastenings are
struck in by concussion, which latter method I prefer; and, when
adopted, the incline is made to raise the hammer, for which purpose it
is applied to the top of the lever, while the spring for imparting the
stroke may either be applied to the lever, or directly to the hammer
itself, by being coiled round it, or in any other convenient manner.
Figure 9, is a chamber for the purpose of holding glue or cement, for
the purposes of being used with pegs, and which may be conveyed by
the tube c, to the spindle and pegs in the manner exhibited; and, should
such glue or cement require heat for keeping it in a liquid or soluble
state, steam may be passed through the hollow spindle exhibited at said
Figure by any convenient means, such as a flexible tube.
Figure 1, Sheet 2, is a front, and Figure 2, is a side elevation of a ma-
chine, which I employ for hammering or heating leather, and in which I
employ one or more hammers, as exhibited. Figure 8, is a section of the
framing taken across the dotted lines a, b. A, is a moveable table
secured to the screw B, which passes through the nut C, which is placed
on the top of the standard D, which is bolted on to the lower part of
the framing, as shewn. The nut C, is for the purpose of raising or
lowering the table at pleasure. On the shaft E, is placed driving pulley
and fly-wheel attached, and clutch G, which is cast or secured to the
fly-wheel F, and which fits into the corresponding part H, which slides
upon a key or feather in the shaft E. The lever I, is for throwing the
machine in or out of gear. On the shaft is secured three cams or arms
K, K, K, and which are made to act together or alternately upon the
cross pieces L, L, and which pieces are secured to the vertical hammers
or rods M, M, M. These rods are fitted into the framing of the
machine at N, N, and are fitted with spiral springs as exhibited, and
pins 0, 0, 0, which are for the purpose of accumulating the power of

page_text: the spiral springs when the cams or arms K, K, K, raise the rods or
hammers up, which is performed by means of the shaft being driven
in the proper direction. When leather is to be beat by this machine,
the operator stands in front, and introduces the material upon the table
and underneath the hammers. He then throws the clutch F, by
means of the lever I, into gear, and travels the leather underneath the
hammers until sufficiently beaten or hardened.
The third part of my improvements consists of certain novel me-
chanical arrangements and combinations for cutting out the soles or
uppers, or other parts of boots and shoes, and which is represented at
Figures 4, and 5, of Sheet 2, where Figure 4, represents a front
elevation of the machine complete, and Figure a cross section along
the dotted line C, of two metal rollers A, and B, geared accurately
together, and mounted in the framing D, D, as exhibited, and which
are. driven by any convenient prime mover from the fast pulley E, of
the machine.
On the roller A, are fixed suitable dies or projections F, F, and which
are made to fit accurately in corresponding apertures G, G, on the
roller B, as exhibited. When leather is to be cut by this machine the
operator places a piece of leather H, in the position indicated at
Figure 5, by throwing the belt from the loose pulley on to the fast
pulley E, which will give motion to the machine; a piece of leather
will be cut and forced through the aperture corresponding in shape
and size to the die fixed on the roller A, and aperture G, in the
roller B. The roller B, is hollow, and of sufficient diameter so as to
enable the workinan to remove the pieces cut at pleasure; and by these
means, and in this manner, I cut the several parts of boots and shoes.
The fourth part of my Invention consists of certain novel mechanical
arrangements and combinations for pressing the outer soles or heels of
boots and shoes upon the uppers and inner soles, when such parts are
attached or united by means of a suitable adhesive substance, and
which I perform by placing the last on the table of any convenient
press, while the upper part or top of the press is furnished with a
moveable piston, to which is attached a die or pressing surface, and a
piece of vulcanized india-rubber or other suitable elastic material, so as

page_text: to press uniformly all over the sole of the boot or shoe. This arrange-
ment will be more clearly understood on referring to Figure 6, where A,
represents a table, in which is screwed two tapered studs B, and which
studs are hollow for the purpose herein-after described; and C, repre-
sents a last with a shoe upon it, with its outer sole D; and E,
represents a piece of elastic material; and F, represents the pressing
piece attached to or formed upon G, which represents the pressing
piston. The Figure represents the shoe in the process of the sole being
pressed upon it; and I would remark that, instead of the piece of
vulcanized india-rubber referred to, that a bag of any suitable strong
waterproof fabric containing water may be used as a substitute for the
clastic material referred to.
The fifth part of my Invention has reference to and consists of a
novel mode of bevelling or reducing the different parts of which boots
and shoes are manufactured at any desired part, or into any desired form.
The piece to be cut or bevelled is laid over a suitable die raised above
the surface of any convenient table, and which is illustrated on Sheet 2,
at Figure 7, where a, represents a portion of a table or bench, and B,
a die, the surface of which is raised or rounded for the purpose herein-
after more fully described. A piece C, is connected to the table A, by
a hinge D, and is formed with a hole corresponding in area with the
die, but rather smaller; when this piece is brought down on the piece of
leather placed upon the die B, as exhibited, it presses upon the edges of
the leather E, and allows its middle portion to protrude above the sur-
face of the hinged piece, according to the curvature of the die, which
enables the workmen to cut away the protruding portion with a knife
level with the surface of piece C, exhibited. The part F, of the
piece C, is a piece of metal attached to it by screws at G, G, as shewn,
in order to serve as a more perfect guide for the knife, and hold the
edges of the piece of leather E, more firmly pressed upon the die B.
The piece C, is secured and held down to the table A, when necessary,
by the workman turning the handle H, half round in the direction of
the arrow's flight, which will cause the piece I, to be at right angles
with a slot which runs in the direction of the dotted lines, and which
slot is of a sufficient length to admit the piece I, to pass through it

page_text: when in the position exhibited. Figures 8, and 9, are modifications of
the same improvements, and showing its application to other parts of
the materials of boots and shoes, and where B, marks the lower die,
and C, C, the upper die or pressing surface. The parts 1, 1, of the dies
form the templet or guide for the knife. The side star of the pieces
of leather E, are represented as cut or bevelled.
Sixthly. Another part of my improvements consists of introducing
steam for the purpose of heating various tools used in the process of
manufacturing boots and shoes, such as finishing tools used in polishing
and ornamenting the soles and heels, and also in tools used for pressing
and smoothing the folds and seams of different parts of the boot or
shoe, and also heating lasts by the same means during the process of
manufacture. Fig. 10, 11, 12, and 6, illustrate the mode of heating
some of the tools used in the manufacture of boots and shoes by these
means. Figure 10, exhibits an instrument or tool used for buffing,
polishing, channelling, or ornamenting, shewn in section, where a,
represents a metal tube, with two channels or holes formed or bored in
it for the purpose of the egress and ingress of steam, heated water or
atmosphere, and which pass in and out through the tubes C, and D, and
which is screwed into the tube a, at X, and are connected by clastic or
other suitable tubing to any convenient heating apparatus. Figure 11,
exhibits a form of tool which may be screwed or inserted into the
piece a, or any other form of tool required. The tube a, is surrounded
with a piece of wood, or any other non-conductor of heat, to serve as a
handle to the workmen to hold the tool firmly in his hand during the
operation of using the same.
Figure 12, illustrates an apparatus heated in the same manner as
that already described, and which may be attached to Fig. 10, at F;
the parts G, of both figures being tapped and chased to form a cor-
responding male and female screw for that purpose.
At Fig. 6, is illustrated the application of heating already referred
to, by the same means, to a last, for the purpose of rendering the leather
and the materials of which shoes are manufactured more pliable, and
when adhesive material is used for attaching or uniting the soles to the
other parts, keeping such adhesive materials in a pliable or soluble state
B

page_text: during the process of uniting the parts together; where the space
indicated by the dotted lines H, H, indicates a hollow chamber in the
last C. The hollow studs B, B, are connected to the tubes J, J, one of
which is connected with any convenient heating fluid, and the other for
the purpose of admitting cold water for the purpose of cooling the last,
or which may serve for an egress pipe when steam is used. The piece
K, forms a part of the last, which is screwed to it by the pins 1, 1,
and contain two stuffing boxes at X, X, for making the holes through
which the tubes pass steam-tight.
Seventhly. Another part of my Invention consists in placing shoes
in a suitable chamber or compartment, and which chambers or compart-
ments I heat by means of air, steam, or hot water; and I would remark
that I prefer the boots or shoes being placed bottom upwards or
suspended while in such chambers or compartments during the opera-
tion of drying.
Eighthly. My improvement consists of a novel mode of heating or
securing the soles and heels of boots and shoes to the back part of the
uppers, technically termed "counters," and generally consist of an
outer, inner, and middle piece, viz., the upper, the lining, and the
intermediate piece or stiffner; and my improvements consists in
securing such parts in the seat or tread, and to the soles and heels, in
the following manner. Instead of securing by pegs or stitches the said
parts first to the inner sole; I place a piece or pieces upon the inner sole,
and which are made to taper towards the centre, and such piece or
pieces are made with curves or undulations formed in its outer edges,
increasing in depth towards the top or middle of such pieces; the heel
is also made with corresponding curves or undulations; the lining,
stiffner, and upper are then secured between the piece so formed, and
the heel referred to, and the heel and inner sole secured together. The
effect of this arrangement will be that the counters being secured in a
more upright position by means of the material being taken up between
the grooves or undulations described, that then these parts will be more
firm, and the boot and shoe be more firm in the seat or tread, and be
less liable to run over, and the necessity for securing during the process
of bracing, has at present practised, in making pegged or screwed boots
and shoes, dispensed with.

page_text: Figures 13, 14, and 15, illustrate the different parts, and the mode
of securing such parts referred to.
Figure 13, is a section of part of a shoe with the licel and counters
and piece a, secured to the inner sole, as described.
Figure 14, a section, and Figure 15, a plan, at which Figures C,
represents the grooves or undulations, and A, represents the groove
piece; D, E, and F, the pieces of which the heel are composed; and G,
the inner sole; while 1, 2, and 3, represent the lining stiffner, and the
back part of the upper.
Ninthly. My improvements consists of the application and use of
heels of wood, made of a required form, for boots and shoes, impreg-
nated or charged with caoutchouc, gutta percha, asphalte, or other
suitable waterproofing material, and which may be performed in a
suitable vessel under any convenient pressure. The materials used for
impregnating such heels being previously reduced by means of heat or
any of the well-known solvents to a soluble or soft state, so that the
materials formed for making such heels may be thoroughly impreg-
nated, such heels may be attached to the other parts of the boot and
shoe by any known or convenient means.
Tenthly. My improvements in clogs consist in charging or impreg
nating the heels and other parts made of wood with caoutchouc, gutta
percha, bitumen, asphalte, or other suitable waterproofing material,
whether the same may be used alone or in combination with other
materials, and which may be connected or attached to the other parts
by any convenient or known means.
Eleventhly. My improvements consist of placing a die and spring
inside the punches or knives used for cutting out different parts of boots
and shoes for ornamenting such parts, and at the same time for pro-
tecting the cutting edges from injury.
Figure 16, is a section of a punch with a top A, secured by the
screw pins B, B, in the top or upper part of it. C, marks a piece of
vulcanized caoutchouc, and which is placed between the top A, and the
piece or die D. The bottom of the piece D, may have any figure or
design formed or cast upon it, so that when it presses upon the leather
E, which is placed upon any convenient and suitable supporting surface,

page_text: it will impart to the leather any required design. There are pins F, F,
in the piece D, which move in slots.1, 1, so that when the knife or
punch is pressed down, and the spring C, compressed, until the cutting
edges will cut the material E. The pins will move in a slot exhibited,
and enable the knife to perform the required operation. It is evident
that when the pressure is taken off the punch that the spring C, will
expand, and cause the piece D, to project beyond the cutting edges of
the punch, which will have the effect of protecting its cutting edges.
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of my
Invention, and the manner in which the same is or may be used or
carried into effect, I would observe, in conclusion, that I do not confine
or restrict myself to the precise details or arrangements which I have
had occasion to describe or refer to, as many variations may be made
therefrom without deviating from the principles or main features of my
Invention.
In witness whereof I have hereunto set my hand and seal, the
Twenty-eighth day of September, One thousand eight hundred
and fifty-three.
JULIAN BERNARD. (L.S.)