A NEW AND IMPROVED METHOD OR MEANS OF TAM- BOURING OR RAISING FLOWERS, FIGURES, OR OTHER ORNAMENTS UPON MUSLINS, LAWNS, AND OTHER COTTONS, CLOTHS, OR STUFFS, OR UPON SILK, LINEN, OR WOOLLEN CLOTHS OR STUFFS, OR UPON CLOTHS OR STUFFS COMPOSED PARTLY OF SILK, FLAX, COTTON, OR WOOLEN
Year: 1804

page_text: JOHN DUNCAN, Manufacturer, in Glasgow, sends greeting.
WHEREAS the King's most Excellent Majesty, by Letters Patent under the
Great Seal of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, bearing date
the Thirtieth day of May, in the forty-fourth year of his reign, gave and granted
unto the said Jolin Duncan, his executors, administrators, and assigns, and
every of them, by himself and themselves, or by his and their deputy or
deputies, servants or agents, or such others as might make use of, exercise,
and vend his Invention of "A NEW AND IMPROVED METHOD OR MEANS OF TAM-
BOURING OR RAISING FLOWERS, FIGURES, OR OTHER ORNAMENTS UPON MUSLINS,
LAWNS, AND OTHER COTTONS, CLOTHS, OR STUFFS, OR UPON SILK, LINEN, OR WOOLLEN
CLOTHS OR STUFFS, OR UPON CLOTHS OR STUFFS COMPOSED PARTLY OF SILK, FLAX,
COTTON, OR WOOLEN," within that part of the United Kingdom of Great Britain
and Ireland called England, the Dominion of Wales, and Town of Berwick-
upon-Tweed, in such manner as to him, the said John Duncan, his executors,
administrators, and assigns, should, in his and their discretion, seem meet;
and that the said John Duncan, his executors, administrators, and assigns,
should and lawfully might have and enjoy the whole profit, benefit, commodity,
and advantage, from time to time coming, growing, accruing, and arising by
reason of the said Invention, for and during the term of years therein men-
tioned; to have, hold, exercise, and enjoy the said licence, powers, privileges,
and advantages therein granted or mentioned to be granted to the said John
Duncan, his executors, administrators, and assigns, for and during and unto
the full end and term of fourteen years from the date of the said Letters
A

page_text: Patent, and immediately ensuing, and fully to be complete and ended, accord-
ing to the Statute in such. case made and provided; in which said Letters
Patent is contained a proviso that if the said John Duncan should not parti-
cularly describe and ascertain the nature of his said Invention, and in what
manner the same is to be performed, by an instrument in writing under his
hand and seal, and cause the same to be inrolled in His Majesty's High
Court of Chancery within one calendar month next and immediately after
the date of the said Letters Patent, that then the said Letters Patent, and
all liberties and advantages. whatsoever. thereby-granted, should. utterly cease,
determine, and become void, as by the said Letters Patent, relation being
thereunto had, will more fully and at large appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said John Duncan, in compliance with the
said proviso in the said Letters Patent contained, and the purport and truc
intent and meaning thereof, and of His Majesty's, said most gracious inten-
tions, do by this instrument in writing under my hand and seal, duly executed,
describe and ascertain the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner
the same is to be performed, as follows, that is to say:-
o Tambouring upon cloth. has hitherto been performed solely by manual
labour, but as by this mode the operator can employ only one needle or hook,
the operation is tedious. To enable one person to work with a number of
needles or hooks at the same time, and, consequently, to perform a much
greater quantity of work within a given period, is the object of the present
Invention. In order to produce work of good quality of the various patterns
required, the operator is enabled by this Invention, first, to vary the form of
his pattern at pleasure in every direction required; secondly, to perforate
the cloth with the needles or hooks, and bring them back, without injuring
the fabric; thirdly, when the needles have perforated the cloth, to supply
them with the thread or yarn which composes the pattern previously to their
being brought back; and, fourthly, when a pattern is completed, to make
fast the ends of the yarn. To shew the machinery necessary for effecting
these operations, Drawings have been made of the different parts composing
the machine by which they are accomplished, to which reference being made
the machinery used for each of the four purposes stated above will appear,
and from thence it will be evident how the whole are connected so as to
produce the effect required.
First, to form any pattern, and to vary the same at pleasure in every
direction required. If every needle can be brought opposite to every point
in the cloth meant to be perforated, the object will be attained, for the needles
being made to perforate successively every point required, any given pattern

page_text: may be produced. Now, as in this Invention it is only proposed at one and
the same time to work a number of figures similar to each other, if the
needles or hooks are placed parallel to each other, and at right angles with
the superficies of the cloth, at any fixed distance from each other, so that
the whole may move together, while the cloth remains stationary, then, if one
needle or hook, by perforating in the successive points required, makes any
given figure, every other needle will make one similar, or, if the whole needles
or hooks remain relatively stationary, and the motion is communicated to the
cloth, the same effect will be produced. I have tried both these plans, but I
prefer the last, because the effect is the same, and the machinery is much
more simple in construction and easier to work, for if the needles or hooks
move, the machinery which supplies them with thread must also move in the
sanie direction, and it is much easier to move the cloth than these two parts
of the machinery, which, for the sake of steadiness, must be stout and heavy.
I shall therefore describe the mode of producing patterns by moving the
cloth.
66
The, mechanical theorem upon which this motion depends is thus expressed
in the first and second corollaries to Sir Isaac Newton's Third Lawsof Motion;
asorgivenlin, Motte's translaation of Newton's Principia, in the edition
published in the year One thousand eight hundred and three, pages 15
and 16, which corollaries are as follows:-Corollary 1st. "A body by two
forces conjoined will describe the diagonal parrallellogram in. the same time
that it would describe the sides by these forces apart." Corollary 2d.
"And hence, is explained the composition of any one direct force out of any;
two oblique forces, and, on the contrary, the resolution of any one direct
force into any two oblique forces, which composition and resolution are
abundantly confirmed from mechanics." Which theorem I have applied to
the purposes of this machine in the following manner :-The cloth to be tam-
boured is stretched in a vertical position between two cylinders placed parallel
to each other in an oblong frame of cast-iron or other convenient substance, which
slides freely up or down at pleasure in another frame. This last frame slides
freely from right to left, or vice versa, carrying the other frame along with
it, so that either a vertical or horizontal, motion may at pleasure be communi-
cated to the cloth, and when both are communicated at the same time the
cloth moves in an oblique direction, the obliquity of which varies in proportion
to the quantity of motion given to each of the two direct forces. By these
means every rectilineal or curvilineal figure may be produced, and, conse-
quently, every pattern required. The construction of these frames which
produce, this effect will appear from the Drawings Nos. 1 and 2 .hereunto:

page_text: annexed, which are transverse vertical sections of the machine; and in order
to make these and the succeeding Drawings more intelligible, I have hereunto
annexed two Drawings, marked A and B, which are representations of the
wood-work which supports and connects the whole machine, to which I have
referred in describing the different parts of the machine, in order to shew in
what directions the sections are made. The one of these Drawings, viz.
A, is an elevation of the wood-work as viewed from one side of the machine;
and in speaking of the sides of the machine I refer to the situation in which the
operator is placed at work, which is in front of the machine. Upon this Drawing
are marked and enumerated the different parts of which one side frame is
composed. On the opposite side of the machine is another side frame,
exactly similar. Drawing B is an elevation of the wood-work as viewed
from the front of the machine, or place where the operator sits at work. The
different section lines in these two Drawings refer to the different Drawings
to be afterwards described, and shew in what direction the machine is
supposed to be cut for the purpose of illustration.
00
1712477
I now proceed to describe the cloth frames and their motions, which are
illustrated by Drawings No. 1 and 2, hereunto annexed. Drawing 1st.
Fig. 1st is an elevated transverse section of the machine, cut perpendicularly
across in front of the cloth frames. The four As in Figure 1st shew the
outer or horizontally moving frame, at each of the four corners of which
there are projections from the upper and lower bars in an horizontal line,
distinguished by four B', so that the frame may be moved from side to side,
as after mentioned. These projections pass through eyes or bushes in or
attached to the second and third side rails of the wood-work. By these
means the frame, which is distinguished by four A, is supported at each corner,
and slides freely from side to side when required. It is moved from side to
side by turning the male screw E, which turns in the female screw F, fixed to
the lower bar of the frame. This gives the horizontal motion. What is
represented in this frame by K, at opposite corners, is the inner or vertically
moving cloth frame, which slides freely up or down within the horizontally
moving frame above described. The vertical motion of this vertically
moving cloth frame is produced by the piece of metal M, passing through
two grooves in the pillars N, N, fixed to the lower bar of this inner or
veitically moving frame. In the centre of the said piece of metal M,
which is swelled for the purpose, is a female screw, worked by the male
screw L, by which the said piece of metal M is elevated or depressed at
pleasure, and carries the inner or vertically moving frame K along with it. The
ends of the said piece of metal M slide freely in the grooves in the said

page_text: LJ
yu
1
pillars N, N, so as not to impede the lateral motion of the outer or horizon-
tally moving frame above described, when acted upon by the screw E. Q is a
cylinder resting on the pivots R, R, at each end thereof, which pass through
grooves made to receive them in the upper part of the two side bars of the outer
or horizontally moving frame. Round this cylinder pass two cords S, S, near to
each extremity thereof, and one end of each chord is fixed to the upper bar
of the said inner or vertically moving frame, and the other end of each of the
said cords, after passing over a pully fixed near to either extremity of the
lower bar of the said outer or horizontally moving frame, is made fast to
the lower bar near to cither extremity of the said inner or vertically moving
frame. These chords serve the purpose of what some mechanics call bridles,
their use being to regulate the motion of the said inner or vertically moving
frame so that the same may rise or sink equally. T, T, are two counterpoises,
suspended by cords from the cylinder Q, to balance the weight of the said
inner or vertically moving frame, so that it may be moved with equal ease,
whether ascending or descending. U, U, are two cylinders parallel to each
other, turning, when required, upon pivots in the said inner or vertically moving
frame. Between these the cloth is stretched, and is rolled from the one upon
the other as often as is necessary, so as to roll round upon one cylinder the
cloth upon which the pattern required has been worked, and to present to the
needles or hooks the cloth upon which the pattern remains to be worked. On
the end of each cylinder is a ratchet wheel V, with a catch, to keep the cloth
to a proper degree of tension. These cylinders must be very true; and to
prevent warping, to which all wood is more or less liable, I generally make
them of block tin, and hollow in the middle. They have each a longitudinal
groove, to admit a small wooden shaft, to which is fixed a piece of stout cloth.
To the other end of this cloth is fixed the fabric upon which the pattern
required is to be worked. The selvedges or edges of the cloth are stretched
laterally by the plates or stretchers, W, W, in which are a number of sharp
pins represented by dotts, on which, the selvedges of the cloth are fixed. The
ends of the plates or stretchers W, W, slide in the boxes X, X, in which,
are a
number of holes to admit pins to prevent the plates or stretchers from yielding
when the cloth is drawn sufficiently tight. Y, Y, are two strong bars across
the machine, fixed firmly to the outer or horizontally moving frame at each
side thereof. Between these bars is another bar Z, in which is a hole opposite
to the point of each needle or hook. This bar Z is fixed to the second side rails
of the wood-work described above by the supporters D, D. The use of these.
three bars is to prevent the cloth from yielding by. its own elasticity when
pierced by the needles or hooks.. The cloth is stretched between the two

page_text: cylinders passing in front of these three bars. By these means the two motions,
horizontal and vertical, are communicated to the cloth, and the combination of
these two motions, by means of the said screws, in different proportions,
produces every other motion required. In said Drawing No. 1 are given
supplementary figures, which shew more clearly the shape and construction of
some of the different parts. Figure 2nd and 3rd are front views of the eyes or
bushes C, as constructed by me, but which admit of various modes of construc-
tion. Fig. 4th is a plan of the male horizontal screw E, and female screw F;
as they will appear when the eye is perpendicular over them, the box which
contains the female screw F being fixed to A, the lower bar of the outer cloth
frame. The screw E revolves upon its own axis in the pieces G, G, which are
screwed fast to the breast beam a, which does not appear in Figure 1st, being
there supposed to be cut away, but which will appear clearly in Drawing 2d;
Fig. 9. In Fig. 4 it is represented as transparent, to shew the shape of G, G;
which are screwed to its lowest edge. On the end of the screw E is a bevel
wheel H, of thirty-two teeth, worked by a bevel pinion I of sixteen teeth;
which is turned by means of a small handle by the operator's right hand, when'
a lateral motion of the frame is required. The pinion is fixed on a perpen-
dicular spindle, the supporters of which are also fixed to the upper and lower
sides of the breast beam a, next to the cloth. Fig. 5 is an elevation of this
spindle, seen from the back of the machine. Fig. 6 is a profile section of the
breast beam a, with the upright screw L and its supporters, shewing how
they are fixed to the beam a. M also appears here in profile. On the screw L
is fixed the spur wheel O of thirty-two teeth, turned by the pinion P of sixteen
teeth. This pinion is worked by. the operator's left hand, where a vertical
motion of the frame is required. Fig. 7 is a profile section of the two franies.
shewn in Fig. 1, cut nearly in the middle, to the different parts of which I liave
attached the same reference letters as in Fig. 1st, as the one merely shews the
same machinery in profile, which the other does in front. The shape of all the
parts is clearly shewn in the Drawings, so as to be obvious to a good mechanic
from a careful inspection of the Drawings. Fig. 8 is a plan of one of the four
stretcher boxes mentioned in Fig. 1st, as seen from above, with the screws
which connect them with the upper and lower bars of the inner frame.
I next proceed to describe Drawing 2, Fig. 9, hereunto annexed. Fig. 9 is-
a vertical transverse section of the machine cut perpendicularly across' behind
the cloth frames in the direction of the reference section line mentioned in
Drawing A. It is chiefly intended to shew how the horizontal screw E and
the vertical screw L appear when viewed from behind, and as a further illustra-
tion of the way in which they and their supporters are fixed to the breast

page_text: beam.a, which is here visible. A small part of the lower bar of the outer frame,
distinguished by four A', is represented, as transparent, to shew the horizontal
screw E, and box with female screw, behind it, which would otherwise be hid:
All the reference letters in this Drawing are the same as in the former No.: 1;
this being merely a view of the same machinery behind which Fig. 1. repre-
sents as seen in front and: Fig. 7 in profile section. In Fig. 10 in this
Drawing the screws E and L, and machinery connected with them, are again
shewn as they would appear to an eye placed perpendicularly over them.
Fig. 11 sheivs part of the outer and inner cloth frames, and how the grooves
which connect them are constructed.. Here, too, the eye is placed immediately.
above the object. K is part of.the upper or under bar of the inner frame (for.
both have the same shape). A is the side bar of the outer frame, seen in
section. Fig. 18 shews how the end of the cross bar Y. is fixed to A, the side
bar of the outer frame, which appears in section, the eye being still above it.
K is the side bar of the inner frame, also seen in section..
.
These Drawings 1 and 2 contain all the machinery necessary for stretching
the cloth, and also for shifting it, so as to produce any pattern.. This, as
already described, is done by the operator's hands (by turning the-screws) in
the interval between working every loop or stitch of which the tambouring
is composed. The vertical screw, L gives the motion up or down. The
horizontal screw E gives the motion right or left, as required. When both
screws are turned at the same time they produce an oblique motion, varied at;
pleasure by giving more or less motion to either screw; and as this obliquity
may be varied every stitch, all right or curved lines can be produced, and any
pattern formed.
Most of the remaining motions' required in working are
produced by the feet pressing down alternately three treddles, as will be after-
wards described. The second operation is to perforate the cloth with the
needles or hook's, and bring them back without injuring the fabric. To:
perforate the cloth with the needles, only one motion is necessary. As the cloth
is stretched across the machine in a vertical position, the needles, in order to be
at right angles to the superficies of the cloth, must also be placed in a frame
extending across the machine, and must' lye in an horizontal position. The
motion communicated to this frame must be from the front towards the back
of the machine, and the same motion reversed will bring it again to its former
place. This motion is effected in the following manner:-The four in
Drawing 3; Fig. 14, represent a rectangular frame of cast-iron, with project-
ing arms towards the front of the machine, which I call the needle carriage,
and which is parallel to the horizon. Upon its cross bar e, e, is placed the
frame which contains the needles, which will afterwards; be described. This

page_text: iron
needle carriage gives the perforating and returning motion to the needles. To
the back bar of this carriage V are attached two double-jointed pieces of
q, q, which connect V with two studs r, r, fixed perpendicularly in the
the roller s. In the roller are also fixed two horizontal studs t, t, from which
iron rods pass to the treddles below, to continue the connection to the moving
power which works these treddles. In Drawing 8, Fig. 35, this carriage and
the rollers appear in profile section. C, C, is one side of the needle carriage,
resting upon friction wheels in the bearer U, U, which are screwed to the
second side rails of the wood-work. q is one of the double-jointed pieces
connected at one end with the back bar of the carriage V, and at the other
end with the perpendicular stud r, fixed in the roller S. From the horizontal
back stud the iron rod W continues the connection to the treddle Y, and from
the front stud t the rod X continues the connection to the treddle X, Y, when
pressed down by the operator's right foot, by depressing the horizontal back
stud t, draws the carriage c, c, towards the back of the machine, and the needle
frame being fixed upon the cross bar e, e, of this carriage, the needles conse-
quently perforate the cloth; X, when pressed by the left foot, operates in an
opposite direction, and brings the carriage to its former position. But as all
tambouring consists of loops drawn successively through the cloth, and also
as each loop is drawn through that which preceded it, the instrument used in
the operation, altho' commonly called a needle, is (more properly speaking)
a hook. Now as this hook, after having perforated the cloth, must be open
for the purpose of receiving the thread which forms the tambouring, means
must be used to shut it after it is supplied, and before it returns, otherwise it
would catch not only the thread but also part of the cloth and also the pre-
ceding loop, through the centre of which it passes in perforating.
To explain the means which I have used to effect this purpose, it will be
proper, in the first place, to explain the construction of the needle; and to avoid
obscurity I shall hereafter always use the term needle, altho', as before stated,
it might more properly be called a hook. The needle is a straight piece of
steel wire, near the point of which a barb is cut, similar to that of a fish hook;
under this barb a groove is struck longitudinally into the stem of the needle, by a
screw engine, with a chisel and bolster, much in the way practised by makers
of stocking-frame needles; the needle and barb are then pointed sharp. The
barb is set straight, and not too high, much in the same shape as it appears
at N, in Drawing 3, Fig. 16. The needle is then tempered, and is ready for
use. The needle when to be used is put into the handle or case i, in
Figure 16, in the end of which small hole is drilled, about an inch deep,
to receive it. I fix the needle into the handle with a cement composed of

page_text: This cement
common scaling-wax mixed with fine powdered brick-dust.
when heated melts, but when cold holds very fast, so that a needle may easily
be taken out when requisite, by heating the handle in which it is fixed
sufficiently to dissolve the wax. In the longitudinal groove is placed a small
piece of wire, also grooved quite to the point, but without any barb, and which
I shall call the wire slider, for which see Figure 15. When this wire slider,
resting in the groove of the needle, is pushed towards the needle point, it slides
under the barb of the needle, when the groove in the wire slider receives the
barb, and the needle is shut. When the wire slider is drawn back it quits
the barb of the needle, and the needle is then open. The wire slider is fixed
with silk (thread to a piece of brass k, as in Figure 15, and this is screwed.
to a round hollow piece of brass 1, which is fitted upon the handle i, so
as to slide easily backward and forward. The whole may be seen, Fig. 20.
In that part of 1 which is opposite to where k is fixed is a long slott
through which a screw passes into the handle i (see Fig. 20 and 21), so
as to allow 1 to slide backward and forward; but to prevent it from turning
round on the handle, except when the handle also is turned, in which case it
goes along with it. Fig. 22 and 23 are end views of 1, to shew the bore.
through which the handle i passes.
1
.
The middle frame is next to be described. On the cross bar of the car-
riage e, c, is erected the needle frame, consisting of two bars f, f, and g, J,
placed on edge, parrallel to each other and to the cloth, with their lower edges
screwed fast to pieces on the cross bar e, e, at h, h, h, h. The needle handles,
of which twelve are represented between i, i, are of brass, turned round and
straight, and they are placed horizontally and parallel to each other in bushes
or eyes formed to receive them in the bars f, f, and g, g, so that they may
revolve freely on their own axes. The end of the handle which receives the
needle projects about two inches beyond the bar g, g, to receive the brass 1
(Fig. 20), and to allow it room to slide. The bushes in the bar 9, 9, are
triangular notches, as shewn in Figs. 17 and 24, and on the top of the bar
are flat plates through which a screw passes to touch the upper part of each
handle gently, so that they may be always tight fitted, and at the same time
revolve freely when requisite. In the back bar ff, the bushes are round
holes to receive the small pivot Y (Fig. 16), at the end of the handle i: On
this pivot a pinion Z, of sixteen or eighteen teeth, is fixed, which is worked by
a rack m, and thus the rototary motion is given, to all the handles when
required. See Figs. 18 and 19. The way of placing the rack above the
handles appears by Fig. 18. The rack is hung on the bar f, f, and slides freely
from side to side. b, b; Fig. 14, is a bar fixed to f, f, through which a

page_text: number of screws pass, the end of each of which touches the pivot Y of each
needle handle, for the purpose of setting the needle a little towards the cloth
if required. See Fig. 20. On each handle is a collar of brass, with one of
wire behind (Fig. 20), and a hole is drilled through the handle, and a pin
put thro' to prevent it from shifting. The pin is drawn when it is necessary
to take out a handle. Fig. 20 is a profile section of the carriage, the two
needle bars, which compose the frame, and a handle, pinion, collars, brasses,
slider, and needle, all above described. The top plates on the bar g, g, move
at one end on a joint or hinge, and are fixed with a screw at the other, so
that any handle 'may be taken out when required. I generally make these
plates from six to nine inches long each. The machinery necessary for
opening and shutting the needles is as follows:-The form of the wire slider,
Fig. 15, and its connection with the pieces of brass k and 1, having been
already described, it is only necessary to shew how they are connected with
the machine, so as to move the slider backward and forward in the groove. in
the needle. When the needle is free from the cloth, the slider is drawn forward
below the barb, and the needle is shut. When the needle moves forward
to enter the cloth, it becomes open, so that it may receive the thread. When
the needle returns, to disengage itself from the cloth, the slider, whose point
has also gone a little way through the cloth, remains stationary until the barb
of the needle has entered the groove in the slider; they then return together.
The mode of effecting this is as follows:-In each piece of brass 1 a hollow
is turned at a; between the needle frame bar g, g, and the cloth, hangs a
cross bar n, n, which I shall call the slider bar. This bar appears as looked
down upon in Fig. 4; its shape will appear in Fig. 25. This Figure is an
elevation of the slider bar n, n, as viewed from the front of the machine. It
is screwed at each end to two upright pieces o, o, hanging on the round
pivots d, d, screwed to the capes of the wood-work, so that the bar n, n, may
vibrate freely backward and forward. In the upper part of n, n, is a square
notch for each needle, as represented. This notch receives the hollow in the
piece of brass 1 at a, in Fig. 20, and by these means, when the bar n, m,
vibrates, all the pieces of brass 1, and consequently the sliders, are drawn
backward or forward on the handles, and at the same time the motion of the
handles on their own axes is not impeded. For the means of giving motion
to the bar n, n, see Drawing 8, Fig. 35. n and o are the slider bar and one
of the arms in profile section. To the arm o is fixed one end of the wire d,
the other end of which is connected with the crank e, working on a pin in the
back part of the wood-work, and to the other end of this crank is hung a
weight. The operation of this weight draws the bar n towards the back of

page_text: the machine, to shut the needle. When the bar is drawn far enough back, it
is stopped by two screws p, p, appearing in Fig. 14, fixed to. each arm 0:of
the bar n, and pressing against the cross bar e, e, of the carriage.. To the
arm is also fixed another wire f, connecting it with the lever g, which
swings freely on the pin or screw nail fixed in the front post. J is another
lever working on a pin or nail passing through its centre into the lower side
rail. The back end of this lever is connected by a wire k, with a horizontal
stud 1, fixed in the roller S. The lower part of the lever g being stopped-by
the front end of the lever i, prevents g, and consequently the barn, from
moving along with the carriage, whereupon the needles, open. When the
needles are about half way through the cloth; the back end of i, being raised
by the wire k, the other end is depressed, and the lower part of the lever g
disengaged; the bar n, and all the apparatus connected with it, is then'
drawn towards the back of the machine by the weight behind, until the,
lever g is stopped by the screw o. This allows the sliders to go a little way
through the cloth, but not so: far as the needles go, where they remain 'till, the,
carriage returning, the screws p, p, in Fig. 14, are pushed back by the cross;
bar e, e, as soon as the needles are. shut. The back end of the lever
then descends by the weight attached to it, the other 'end rises, and the
machine is in its former position. As both this and the carriage motion,
formerly described take their motion from the roller. S, worked by the;
treddles Y and X, it is plain that when properly 'tempered they will move.
together. An apparatus as above described is connected with each end of
the slider bar n, n. This completes the machinery, required to perforate the
cloth with the needles and bring them back without injuring the fabric. The
next operation required is to supply the needles with the thread or yarn.
which forms the tambouring. This operation is performed in the interval after;
the needles have perforated. the cloth and before they return. It consists?
merely of two motions, first, each thread must describe a small circle round,
its needle; secondly, after having completed the circle round the needle, each.
thread must be drawn towards the back of the machine, to bring it under
the barb into the hook or eye of the needle. I call this operation feeding; and:
the needle by which it is performed the feeding needle, to distinguish it from
the needle formly.described, which may be called, the tambouring needle,; and,
I shall now describe the requisite machinery. The whole of this machinery.
is supported by a beam of wood A,. A, as in Fig. 14, extending, horizontally:
across the machine, a little behind the cloth to which it is parallel. Its ends
rest on the two second side rails; through each of these ends a bolt passes,
horizontally, by which the beam A, A, is screwed to the back supporters u, u,!
.
:

page_text: of the needle carriage, as shewn in section by Fig. 35. The machinery, as
seen from above, is represented in Fig. 14. B, B, is a bar of wood screwed
to one of iron, in which are fixed the brass feeding needles represented
between C, C, each having a small hole drilled through it near the point,
through which a thread passes. The cranks F, F, are fitted into the
standards L, L, so as to revolve upon their own axes. On the axes of each
crank is a bevil pinion of sixteen teeth; these pinions are turned by two
bevil wheels of thirty-two teeth, fixed near the ends on the iron spindle E, E,
hung at either end on a centre screw, so as also to revolve freely on its own
axis. The other or front ends of the cranks F, F, pass through two bushes or
round holes below the feeding bar B, B, into which they are fitted easy, so
that when the cranks are turned once round by the spindle E, E, performing
half a revolution, the bar B, B, is carried along with them, and the point of
each feeding needle describes a smalle circle round its corresponding tambouring
needles. B, B, must also be fitted to slide easily backward and forward on the
cranks F, F. B, B, is connected by two iron rods G, G, with two upright
arms H, H, made fast on an horizontal spindle I, I, hung in centre screws
so as to vibrate freely on its own axis. Fig. 26 is a profile section of the
same machinery. B, the feeding bar; with one needle C; F, one of the
cranks; G, one of the iron rods connecting the bar B with one of the upright
arms H; K, one of the bearers of the horizontal spindle I, near the ends of
which the upright arms H, H, are fixed, and from the middle of which the
lever M projects horizontally forward; A is the cross beam in profile. . Fig. 27
is an elevation of the same machinery from behind. By a careful inspection
of of Figs. 14, 26, and 27, the construction of all the parts of this machinery
will be better understood by a mechanic than by any description, it being
always recollected that Fig. 14 is a ground plan or view of the machinery
from above; Fig. 26, a profile or view from one side; and Fig. 27, a direct
elevation or view from behind. On the middle of the spindle E, E, is a
pully D, consisting of two pieces. The first, D 1, Fig. 27, is made fast upon
the spindle. The edge is cut as a ratchet wheel of sixteen teeth, and on the
flat side is cut another ratchet with a number of small teeth, as represented
in the small Figure D 1, annexed to Fig. 27. The second piece is a broad
pully, to receive a cord passing three or four times round it. One of its flat
sides is a little hollowed, and has a spring catch fixed into it, as shewn in
the view D 2. This piece is fitted close to D 1, so that the spring catch rests
in the ratchet on the flat side of D 1, and when D 2 is turned round it
carries D 1 along with it; but D 2, being loose upon the spindle, will turn
back without communicating the motion to D 1, which is further stopped by

page_text: a catch resting in the ratchet of sixteen teeth upon its edge. This is so similar
to the barrel of a clock or common roasting jack that it will be easily under-
stood. The motions of the feeding machinery are as follow:-A cord passes
three or four times round the pully D on the middle of the spindle E, E,
as shewn in the profile section, Fig. 29. One end of the chord is fixed to
the upper end of a
piece of iron N, and the other passing over a pully
behind has a weight attached to it. The lower end of N is connected by a
wire with one end of the lever O, moving at its centre upon a joint in a piece
of iron fixed to the middle treddle P; the other end of O is connected by a
wire with the breast beam a, a, as shewn in Figures 34 and 35. When the
treddle P is pressed down by the operator's right heel, it pulls the chord, and
consequently turns round the pully D, and gives the rotatory motion to the
feeding machinery. When the heel is eased or withdrawn, the weight
attached to the cord brings back the treddle and loose part of D to their
former positions. In the piece of iron N is cut a notch, which, when it is
drawn up by the weight, carries up the horizontal lever M along with it. The
rising of M makes the two upright arms H, formerly described, move towards.
the back of the machine, and by the connection rods G, G, draw back the.
feeding bar B, B, which thus pulls the threads into the hooks or cyes of
the tambouring needles. See again Figs. 14, 26, 27. Fig. 30 shews N in
front and M endways, as also does Fig. 31. To N, as in Figures 28 and 31,
is fixed a wire R, which, going in a horizontal direction to the left side of the
machine, connects N with one end of the lever S. From the other end of Sa
wire T, connects S with a crank U, fixed perpendicularly to the breast beam
Fig. 28 is a ground plan, the eye being above. From the other end
of the crank U a wire V descends perpendicularly to a stud W, fixed in the
left treddle X, as is very plaiuly shewn in Fig. 32, which is an elevation.
When the treddle X is pressed down to bring out the needles, as already
described, the connecting wires V, T, R, being pulled, draw N towards the
left; the notch thus quits its hold of M, which then descends by the weight
suspended from it, and the feeding needles resume their former position close
behind the cloth. By these means, first, the circular motion of the feeding
needles round the tambouring needles is effected; secondly, the feeding needles
are drawn back to bring the thread under the barb of the tambouring needles;
and, thirdly, when the tambouring needles quit the cloth, the feeding needles
return to their former place. The yarn or thread is warped and rolled round-
a cylinder, as practised by weavers. This cylinder is hung horizontally across
the machine above the beam A, A, to which its supporters are screwed. A
section of it appears at y in Fig. 35, and an end view of y in Fig. 34. On
a, a.

page_text: the end of the cylinder y is a small pully, to which is fixed one end of a
cord, the other end of which passes over another, a small pully, fixed to any
convenient part of the wood-work; a small weight is hung to this end, to keep
the yarn at a proper tightness. Besides this, a very light piece of wire hangs
on each thread behind the feeding bar B..B, to assist in tightening any one
which may be slacker than the rest. In Fig. 33 is a ground plan of the
treddles. The middle treddle P, which gives motion to the feeding machinery,
is longer than the other two, and has a cross-piece Z, extending to the lower
side rail, which is pressed by the right heel when the motion is to be given.
This saves the trouble of shifting the right foot from Y to P. The end of P is
fixed by a cord or chain to the floor at some distance, in order to prevent its
rising more than enough. The supplementary Figures in Drawing 6 shew
the treddles in different points of view. This description completes the parts
necessary for working the tambouring. The fastening the threads, which is
the last thing in the operations required, is quite a separate part, and only used
when a pattern is completed. I will therefore first describe the connection
of all the working parts, as shewn in Figs. 34, 35, and 36, which will be little
.else than a recapitulation of what has already been described, and afterwards
take the fastening machinery by itself. Fig. 34 is a profile elevation of the
machine directly, viewed from the right sides. Fig. 35 is a profile section of
the machine, which is here represented as if cut asunder near the middle. Its
chief use is to shew the connection of some parts which are hid by the inter-
vention of the side frame of the wood-work in Fig. 34. Fig. 36 is a perspec-
supposed to view the
tive view of the machine. The eye of the spectator is
machine about four inches higher than the cape of the side frame, about six
inches behind the machine, and about eight feet distant to the right side. In
the perspective view of the machine is given, in this Figure, the yarn cylinder
y.is omitted, because its situation is sufficiently shewn by Figs. 34 and 35, and
it would hide much of the machinery if introduced in Fig. 36. Some small
parts shewn in the former Figures are also omitted. To make these three
Figures, viz, Figs. 34, 35, and 36, understood, it appears only necessary to
attend to the different parts, the letters referring to which respectively are the
same in all the three Figures, and are also the same which have been before
used when describing the parts separately. The only part appearing in these
three Figures, not described before, is a screw P, to regulate the extent of
motion of the carriage.c, c, by touching, when the needles are sufficiently far
through the cloth, and another screw q, which, by touching or swinging lever
r, stops the end of the carriage frame c, when it has returned after the cloth.
is perforated by the tambouring needles. If r, which swings freely upon its

page_text: joint, is pushed to one side, the carriage will come the breadth of r farther out,
which is necessary when 'fastening the ends of the threads, as after described.
S is a catch, to keep the machine fast when not at work. It hooks on a cross-
piece fixed to c, and represented in Fig. 14. In order to work the machine,
which I now proceed to describe, referring more immediately to Fig. 36, the
operator seats himself in front of the breast beam a, at the middle, looking
towards the machine. His right hand is placed on the handle which turns the
horizontal screw.E; his left on the handle of the upright screw L; his right
foot is placed on the treddle Y; his left foot on the treddle X. A pattern for
one needle is printed upon the cloth, which, being traced by that needle, all
the others make similar figures. Having turned his screws until the point of
the cloth meant to be perforated. comes opposite to the needle, he presses
down the treddle Y with the ball, of his right foot; this carries the needles
through the cloth until the carriage c, c, is stopt by the stop screw P coming.
in contact with the standard u, u. The same pressure opens the hooks, to receive
the yarn, as formerly described. He then presses down the cross-piece Z with
his right heel, and immediately allows it to rise again to its former position.
This produces the two motions required for feeding, as.. formerly described.
And, lastly, he presses down the treddle X with his. left foot, which shuts the
needles, and draws them out of the cloth, each bringing the loop formed by
the yarn along with it. When far enough out, the carriage is stopt by coming
in contact with r and 7 (see Fig. 34). He then, by means of the two screws,
shifts the cloth until the next point to be perforated: comes opposite to his
pattern needle, and proceeds as before. The following general remarks may
tend to make some parts of the operation more obvious:-When the yarn has.
been wound on the yarn cylinder y, each thread is put through the small hole
drilled near the point of the feeding needle C. It is then put through the
cloth by a common sewing needle, and made fast in front. That part of the
tambouring needles which forms the hook or eye is always kept in the same
line of direction in which, that part of the pattern which is working runs;
and when the line of direction requires to be changed the relative position of.
the hooks must also be changed in a correspondent direction. This is done.by
turning each needle handle on its own axis by means of the rack m, which is
moved from side to side by the operator's hand. The feeding needles must
perform exactly one revolution at each time, and they must stop at that point of
the circle which they describe immediately behind the hook or eye of the
tambouring needle. Of course, when the tambouring needles are turned to
assume a new position by means of the rack m, the feeding needles must also
be moved round until they correspond.

page_text: Having thus described, as shortly and at the same time as clearly as I am
able, the construction and use of the various parts of this machine, I have only
to express an earnest wish that any mechanic who studies this Specification
will bear constantly in mind that in all the Drawings annexed the same letter
constantly refers to the same part of the machine, in whatever point of view or
in whatever Figure it is represented. By attending to this he will find every
part in all its different points of view in one or other of the Drawings, and this
will probably assist him more in forming a correct idea of their shapes and
construction than any description which can be given. The Drawings were
taken, with very great care and attention, from a machine which has been for
some time actually at work, and are in general upon a scale of two inches
to a foot. It only remains to describe the manner of fastening the ends of the
threads. To fasten the end of every thread when a pattern is compleated it is
only necessary to draw its end through the last loop. If the operator passes a
common sewing needle, with a thread attached to it, through every loop, it will
keep the figures sufficiently fast until the whole piece of cloth is tamboured,
when the piece is finished, and taken out of the machine. The threads which
cross behind between the flowers are clipped away; the threads drawn through
the loops, as above described, are pulled away. The end of each thread which
composed the tambouring then comes through the last loop, and every figure is
made fast. When this mode is pursued, no fastening machinery is required, the
whole being done by the operator's hand. The following plan, however, is
quicker, for which I shall first describe the machinery used, and then the
manner of using it. Fig. 37 represents a transverse vertical section of the
machine cut in front of the breast beam a. All the machinery, except that
used for fastening, is omitted in this Figure. The frame, distinguished by four
A's placed at its corner, hangs perpendicularly in front of the cloth, and as
near to it as possible without touching it. This frame is supported at the top
by two centre screws passing through the ends of the side bars of a horizontally
placed frame, above seen as from the front N, N. The real shape of this
frame is represented in Fig. 43, where it is viewed from above, and is distin-
guished by four N's placed at its corners. This frame is supported by two
centre screws at T, T, which are fixed to the front cross rail of the wood-work.
The frames move on the center screws at A and T as joints, so that the frame
pointed out by four A's, in Fig. 37, slides up and down freely. The levers
E, E, and weights attached to them, serve as counterpoises. The lower part
of the upright bars of the frame pointed out by four A's pass at M, M, through
two eyes fixed to the breast beam. a, to keep the frame steady at bottom.
Within this frame is another, distinguished by four B's, which is hung from the

page_text: cylinder D, D, which turns on gudgeons in its ends, which pass through eyes
supported by the capes of the wood-work C, C, C, C. Four pieces fixed to this
frame pass through four eyes in the frame marked by the four A's, and to the
back of the cylinder D, D, a weight may be hung as a counterpoise. By
these means either of the frames A or B will slide up or down independant of
the other. The frame distinguished by four A's carries a horizontal bar
F, F, supported by two centre screws passing through the sides of the
frame into sockets in the ends of the bar F, F. On these sockets the
bar turns as on a joint, backwards or forwards. The frame distinguished
by four B's carries the horizontal bar G in front of the bar F, F, from
the ends of which projecting round pieces of metal pass through eyes
in the sides of the frame B. By these means the bar G also slides from
side to side when required. The horizontal bar F, F, part of which is
shewn in Fig. 41, carries a set of double wires H, H, shaped as in the
Figure. These wires are pointed sharp, and are of unequal length. In
the side of the longest is a small longitudinal groove, in which the point of the
shortest rests by being bent a little inwards. These wires are placed at the
same distance as the tambouring needles formerly described, so that the point
of each of the longest wires may rest exactly below the corresponding needle.
K, K, are temper screws, to elevate or depress any wire which may require it,
independantly of the rest. The bar G, G, part of which is shewn in Figure
42, carries a set of wires I, I, the ends of which are sharp, and turned horizon-
tally towards the operator's left hand at right angles to their stems. These
wires are also below their corresponding needles, and in front of the double
wires H, H, as shewn in Figs. 37 and 40. L. L, are temper screws, to
elevate or depress then when necessary. These wires H, H, and I, I, are
cast in plates of tin, in moulds made for the purpose, and these plates are
fixed to the bars which carry them, as shewn in Figs. 41 and 42. In order to
work this machinery, when a pattern is completed the tambouring needles are
turned by the rack, as formerly described, until their barbs are straight upwards.
The needles are brought a little further than usual from the cloth by the means
formerly explained. The frame distinguished by four A's is then pushed up-
wards by the operator's hand till the long points of the double wires H, H, pass
through each loop of the tambouring. The tambouring needles then are made
to perforate the cloth, their points passing between the two wires of H, H,
and another loop is wrought in the usual way. The bar G, G, is then drawn
a little to the right hand. The frame distinguished by four B's is raised up.
The bar G, G, is next brought again towards the left, until the cross point of
each of the wires I, I, is above the corresponding loop. By depressing the

page_text: bar G, G, a little, till they are rather under the tambouring needles, each loop
is caught hold of by the cross points of the wires I, I. The sliders which
shut the tambouring needles, already described, are then drawn back until the
needles are open. The last-wrought loops are then drawn out of the barbs or
hooks of the tambouring needles by means of the wires I, I. The rack is
then turned until the barbs point downwards to the floor. The tambour
needles then approach the cloth until their points touch it. The bar. F, F, is
again elevated a little. The square shoulders of the double wires H, H, carry
up the loops preceeding the last, and which have rested on them since they
divided them at the beginning of the fastening operation; as formerly described.
The hooks of the tambour needles receive these loops. The slides are again
brought forward, and the needles shut. The needles have now quitted the
last loop, and caught the preceding one. The bar F; F, carrying the double
wires H, H, is then sunk down to its former place, the bar G, G, pulled again
towards the right, to disengage the cross points of the wires I, I, from the
loops; the bar G, G, is then also sunk to its former place; the needles are
then pushed again through the cloth, but are immediately returned without
being fed; the second last loop is by these means drawn through the last,
and forms a kind of knot, and the operation is compleated. The operator
shifts to another figure, and goes on as before. On one end of the cylinder
D, D, is a ratchet wheel O, with a catch P, which. falls into it, when the
frame distinguished by four B's is raised to a proper height, as before described.
The use of this is to keep the said frame steady until the operation of fasten-
ing is performed. When the frame is to be pulled down to its former position,
the catch is lifted up by pulling down the handle V, as in Fig. 44, suspended
to the crank S, which turns upon a pin in the upper cross rail of the wood-
work. The crank S is connected with the crank Q by the wire R, and the
crank is connected with the catch P by the wire U. In Figure 43 this
appears as seen from above, in Fig. 44 as seen in front, and in Fig. 45 as
seen from one side. Fig. 38 is a profile section of the frames distinguished
by four A's and four B's. Fig. 39 shews one of the eyes M from above.
The machine described above may be made to perform all its operations by
the application of any mechanical power, in the following manner :-It will
appear from the above description that, as the formation of any pattern is
effected by turning the two screws formerly described, the correctness of the
figure will depend upon the skill and attention of the operator; but if the
machinery should be so constructed that these effects are produced by a
regular uniform motion of the machine itself, it is evident that more regularity
will be obtained than can be expected from the operation of any person, how-

page_text: over steady and attentive. This will be particularly useful when a large
quantity of cloth is to be tamboured of one pattern.
I shall now describe the machinery which I have invented for effecting
this purpose, and which may be added to any machine constructed according
to the plans and descriptions given above. The wooden framework for carry-
ing and connecting this additional machinery with the former at the right
side of the machine consists of a side frame, exactly the same as that shewn
in Drawing A, and its connection with the former wood-work is shewn in
Drawing B. The Nos. 11, 12, distinguish the additional side frame, as seen
from the front of the machine. Nos. 13, 13, are two horizontal beams or rails
which connect the side frame 11, 12, with the right side frame of the machine,
as formerly described. Two cross rails, exactly the same, form the connection
behind. It has been formerly observed and explained, that the whole form-
ation of figures depends upon the application of two forces; the one in an
horizontal and the other in a vertical direction. I shall describe the machinery
which gives these motions by this plan. As the different parts of the machine
in the former Drawings have been distinguished by letters, I shall-in-these
use numbers to avoid confusion. In Figure 46 is represented a horizontal
section of the machine, with the additional machinery. Those parts formerly
described are again distinguished by the same letters formerly used; the addi-
tional parts by numbers. The following description refers to Drawings
No. 12, 13, 14, and 15, in all of which the numeral references. constantly
denote the same part of the machine. The horizontal spindle 15 is supported
by centre screws 46, 46, fixed to the cross beams or rails 13, 13, so as to
revolve freely on its own axis. On it are fixed four wheels, distinguished by
Nos. 16, 17, 18, and 20. No. 20 is a ratchet wheel, in which are cut just so
many teeth as there are to be stitches or loops in the figure intended to be
tamboured. This wheel is moved one tooth in the interval between every
stitch or loop, by means of the catch 21 and lever 38, shewn in Figure 47,
which is an elevation viewed from the front. The lever 38 being pulled
towards the left side of the machine by the operator, or person attending the
machine if working by power, draws the catch 21 along with it, and conse-
quently turns the wheel 20 and spindle 15 a little round. The lower part of
the lever 38 works in a box 39, with a stop screw .in each end, so as, 'by
stopping the lever when drawn from side to side, to confine the quantum of
motion to a single tooth of the ratchet wheel 20, and neither more nor less.
The horizontal motion of the frame is produced by means of the wheel 18
turning on the spindle 15 along with the ratchet wheel 20. To the right side

page_text: of the outer or horizontally moving frame A, formerly described, is fixed a
piece of metal distinguished by No. 19, the end of which presses upon the
edge of the wheel 18. To the said outer or horizontally moving frame is
also fixed one end of a cord 47 (see Fig. 47), passing over a pully 48, fixed
to any convenient part of the right side frame of the wood-work, by the other
end of which cord is suspended a weight 49. This weight pulls the outer
horizontally-moving frame towards the right side of the machine, and keeps
the piece 19 always pressing on the edge of the wheel 18. The horizontal
screw, formerly described, and female screw, are taken of. Now, if the circum-
ference of this wheel were a circle, no motion could be generated by its revo-
lution on the spindle 15, because, every line drawn from its centre to any point
in its circumference being equal, the horizontally-moving frame would always
remain stationary. To construct a wheel which will produce the horizontal
motions required, the mechanic, having first turned his wheel into a circular
form, must consider the figure he has to produce, and what horizontal motions
of the frame are necessary for that purpose. Let him then divide the circum-
ference of the wheel 8 into as many equal parts as he has formerly cut teeth
in the ratchet wheel 20, which, as before remarked, correspond with the
number of stitches or loops in his figure. From these divisions he will draw
lines to the centre of the wheel as radii of the circle. Beginning, then, at
the point where his horizontally-moving frame will be nearest the left side of
the frame, he must then go round the divisions in the circumference of his
wheel, and consider what motion, if any, is required in each. When a motion
of the frame towards the right is required, that division of the circumference
of the wheel 18 which is then to come in contact with the piece 19 must be
brought so much nearer the centre, by cutting away part of the circumference;
then the horizontally-moving frame, being always pulled towards the right by
the weight 49, will move in that direction until the piece 19 is stopped by
that point in the circumference of the wheel 18 which is then in contact
with it. When an opposite motion of the frame A is required, the point in
the circumference of the wheel 18, which comes in contact with 19, must be
left farther from the centre of the wheel. The wheel in revolving will then
push the frame towards the left. When no horizontal motion is required,
that part of the wheel 18 is made perfectly circular. Fig. 50 and 51 repre-
sent two wheels of this kind. The mode of forming their circumferences is
there represented. Wheels of this description are known by many mechanics
by the name of traverse wheels. The wheel 17 operates upon the vertically-
moving or inner frame, formerly described, and distinguished by four K's, in a

page_text: similar manner to that in which the wheel 18, just now described, acts upon
the outer or horizontally-moving frame. Its circumference is cut upon the
same principle, approaching to or receding from the centre, as the figure may
require, and is made circular when no motion is to be produced.
I shall now describe the machinery which connects this wheel 17 with
the vertically-moving frame upon which it operates. So much of the
counterpoise weights T, T, formerly described, are taken off, as will allow
the vertically-moving or inner frame to descend by its own weight. On
the centre of the upper bar of this frame, distinguished by four K's in
Figure 47, are fixed two projecting studs, 45, the front one only of which can
here be visible; a full view is given in Fig. 48. These studs rests in any of
the notches in the hanging piece 44, as required. The upper end of this
hanging piece 44 is connected by a joint with one end of the horizontal
lever 43, supported at the centre by a strong beam of wood 50, resting on the
front and back rails of the wood-work. To the other end of the horizontal
lever 43 is joined a hanging piece 42. To the cross tail of this hanging
piece 42 are attached two strong wires 41, 41, which, passing ou either side
of the spindle 15 (in Fig. 46), continue the connection to a lever 40, extending
from the back to the front of the machine, the end of which lever only appears
in Fig. 47, confined between the sheers 52, fixed to the front cross rail-13.
This lever 40 appears very fully in Fig. 49, which is an end elevation. The
hanging piece 42, and one of the connecting wires 41, attached below to the
lever 40, is appears in profile. The inner or vertically-moving frame, being so
balanced as to descend by its own weight, the lever 40 is consequently pressed
against the edge of the wheel 17 directly under its centre; and when any
point in the circumference of which 17 is farther from its centre than the
preceding, it pushes down the lever 40, which by the connection raises tho
frame upon which it operates; and when any point in the circumferencu
of the wheel 17 is nearer to its centre than the point preceding, the lever 40
is permitted to use, and the frame connected with it descends by its own
weight. The vertical screw is now taken off, or the cross piece M may rest
below the pillars N, N, formerly described, to raise the vertical frame by the
When shifting from any row of Figures to the next, the notches in
44 are for this purpose. M must be clear of N, N, in working on the spindle,
another wheel, 16, which, like the former, acts as a traverse. It gives the
rotatory motion to the needle handles which were, as formerly described,
moved by the operator's hand. The motion is produced as follows:-A
lever 22, as in Figs. 49. and 46, moves horizontally on a joint near the back of
screw.

page_text: the machine, and extends: to the front. From this lever a strong wire. 24,
as in Fig. 46, connects with the slider 25; moveable from side to side in
grooves, formed in the supporters 37, 37, in Fig. 47. To this slider 25 is
fixed a piece of metal 51, as in Fig. 46, placed at right angles from the slider
towards, the cloth in. an horizontal direction. In this piece 51 is an oblong
hole or slott through which passes á vertical pin fixed to the rack m, formerly
described. By these means the slider 25 carries 'the rack' m' along with it,
when moved from side to side; but the hole or slot in the piece 51, being
oblong, does not impede the motion of the rack m, when carried by the needle
frame (to which it is attached, as described before,) backwards or forwards, to
perforate or return from the cloth. The next thing to be. described is the
connection between the slider 25, above described, and the spindle E, for
turning the feeding needles, for it will be recollected. that they must correspond.
In the former description the change of position of the tambouring needles
was produced by the operator's hand; the change of the feeding needles by his
right heel; but when all the parts are to be worked by machinery all must
be connected. Upon the slider 25. is a rack 26, fixed to its upper edge. This
rack.communicates motion to a pinion 27, on one end of the horizontal
spindle. 28, on the other end of which is a. bevel wheel 29, turning another
bevel wheel 30, on one end of another horizontal spindle 31, on the other end
of which a spur wheel. 32, working another spur wheel 33, on the spindle E,
compleats the connection. The rack 26 on the slider 25 gives only half
a revolution to the spindle 22 for every revolution which the rack.m gives to
the tambouring needles. The remaining wheels, 29, 30, 32, and 33, have all
an equal number of teeth. By these means the tambouring and feeding
needles revolve together; for it was formerly explained that half a revolution of
the spindle E gives a whole revolution to the cranks F, and consequently
to the feeding needles. A cord from the pully 36, which is fixed on the
spindle .28, suspends a weight, the operation of which makes the lever 22;
supported at its end by 23, constantly press the edge of the wheel 16. 53 is a
small bell, the hammer of which, when acted on by a pin in the wheel 20,
rings, to give notice when a pattern is finished. The piece which supports the
end of the spindle 31, where the spur wheel 32 is fixed, is jointed at bottom, to
allow the said supporter to move a little backward or forward at the top, this
carrying along with it the end. of 31, where 32 is fixed; the wheels 32 and.33
are thus engaged. or disengaged as required. Both parts of the pully D,
formerly described, are in this plan loose upon the
of D are fixed a number of pins, as represented.
spindle E; but in one side
When .D. is pulled towards

page_text: the right hand, these pins lay hold of a catch 54 in the spindle E. D, when
turned by the treddle P, as formerly described, will then carry E along with it.
When D returns towards the left, the pins quit their hold of the catch 54, and
Dor.E will then move independent of each other. In D there is a groove
resting in a vertical piece of iron 34, open like a fork at top, and jointed at
bottom, so that the top, may move a little from side to side, and carry D along
with it, in order to engage or disengage the pins, as above mentioned. From the
right treddle Y, formerly described, is a wire 58, in the supplementary outline
passing through a vertical hole in the beam. A, to a crank 57, placed in a' ver-
tical position on the said beam, and moveable on its centre. From the other end
of the crank 57 the wire 56 continues the connection to 34, above. described,
as moving the pully D from side to side. From 34 in Fig. 46 another
wire 55, connects it with one end of the crank 53, similar to 57, but placed
horizontally. The other end of this crank operates on the jointed supporter of
31, formerly described. When the treddle Y. is depressed to perforate the
cloth, D, by the above connection, is drawn to the right, and the pins lay hold
of the catch 54 on the spindle E. At the same. time, one end of the crank being
also pulled towards, the right of the wire 55, the supporter of 31 is pressed
towards the back of the machine, and the wheels 32 and 33 are disengaged
from each other. A spring 35, resting behind the supporter of 31, brings the
machinery last described to its former position as soon as the treddle rises
again; thus the spindle E is alternately connected with the parts of the
machine from which it must receive its motions. The connection of every part
being now compleated, all will receive the necessary motions from the three
treddles, and it only remains to apply the power to these treddles. If it
be wished. to move by a rotatory motion, it is only necessary to erect a
horizontal spindle or shaft across the machine. On this shaft fix two pullies,
the one pressing the right treddle Y, and the other the middle treddle P, at
the same points where the operator's feet would be in the former plan. Then, if
the circumference of these pullies be cut or shaped upon a similar plan to that
mentioned when describing the traverse wheels 16, 17, 18, one revolution of
the shaft will act in the same way as the alternate pressure of the operator's
feet, a sufficient weight attached to the left treddle will produce the returning
motion, and supersede the use of the third pully. Some mechanics distinguish
rotatory pieces acting in this way by the name of wipers, and they are so
generally known as to render any further description or Drawings superfluous.
Any power capable of turning this may be applied, at discretion. The person
who attends the machine has then only to turn the wheel 20 one notch in the

page_text: achine en necessary.
In witness whereof, I, the said John Duncan, have set my hand and seal
to these presents, at London, this Twenty-seventh day of June, in the
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and four.

page_text: JOHN DUNCAN, Manufacturer, in Glasgow, sends greeting.
WHEREAS the King's most Excellent Majesty, by Letters Patent under the
Great Seal of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, bearing date
the Thirtieth day of May, in the forty-fourth year of his reign, gave and granted
unto the said Jolin Duncan; his executors, administrators, and assigns, and
every of them, by himself and themselves, or by his and their deputy or
deputies, servants or agents, or such others as might make use of, exercise,
and vend his Invention of "A NEW AND IMPROVED METHOD OR MEANS OF TAM-
BOURING 03 RAISING FLOWERS, FIGURES, OR OTHER ORNAMENTS UPON MUSLINS,
LAWNS, AND OTHER COTTONS, CLOTHS, OR STUFFS, OR UPON SILK, LINEN, OR WOOLLEN
CLOTHS OR STUFFS, OR UPON CLOTHS OR STUFFS COMPOSED PARTLY OF SILK, FLAX,
COTTON, OR WOOLEN," within that part of the United Kingdom of Great Britain
and Ireland called England, the Dominion of Wales, and Town of Berwick-
upon-Tweed, in such manner as to him, the said John Duncan, his executors,
administrators, and assigns, should, in his and their discretion, seem meet;
and that the said John Duncan, his executors, administrators, and assigns,
should and lawfully might have and enjoy the whole profit, benefit, commodity,
and advantage, from time to time coming, growing, accruing, and arising by
reason of the said Invention, for and during the term of years therein men--
tioned; to have, hold, exercise, and enjoy the said licence, powers, privileges,
and advantages therein granted or mentioned to be granted to the said John
Duncan, his executors, administrators, and assigns, for and during and unto
the full end and term of fourteen years from the date of the said Letters

page_text: Patent, and immediately ensuing, and fully to be complete and ended, accord-
ing to the Statute in such case made and provided; in which said Letters
Patent is contained a proviso that if the said John Duncan should not parti-
cularly describe and ascertain the nature of his said Invention, and in what
manner the same is to be performed, by an instrument in writing under his
hand and seal, and cause the same to be inrolled in His Majesty's High
Court of Chancery within one calendar month next and immediately after
the date of the said Letters Patent, that then the said Letters Patent, and
all liberties and advantages whatsoever thereby granted, should utterly cease,
determine, and become void, as by the said Letters Patent, relation being
thereunto had, will more fully and at large appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said John Duncan, in compliance with the
said proviso in the said Letters Patent contained, and the purport and true
intent and meaning thereof, and of His Majesty's said most gracious inten-
tions, do by this instrument in writing under my hand and seal, duly executed,
describe and ascertain the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner
the same is to be performed, as follows, that is to say:―
Tambouring upon cloth has hitherto been performed solely by manual
labour, but as by this mode the operator can employ only one needle or hook,
the operation is tedious. To enable one person to work with a number of
needles or hooks at the same time, and, consequently, to perform a much
greater quantity of work within a given period, is the object of the present
Invention. In order to produce work of good quality of the various patterns
required, the operator is enabled by this Invention, first, to vary the form of
his pattern at pleasure in every direction required; secondly, to perforate
the cloth with the needles or hooks, and bring them back, without injuring
the fabric; thirdly, when the needles have perforated the cloth, to supply
them with the thread or yarn which composes the pattern previously to their
being brought back; and, fourthly, when a pattern is completed, to make
fast the ends of the yarn. To shew the machinery necessary for effecting
these operations, Drawings have been made of the different parts composing
the machine by which they are accomplished, to which reference being made
the machinery used for each of the four purposes stated above will appear,
and from thence it will be evident how the whole are connected so as to
produce the effect required.
First, to form any pattern, and to vary the same at pleasure in every
direction required. If every needle can be brought opposite to every point
in the cloth meant to be perforated, the object will be attained, for the needles
being made to perforate successively every point required, any given pattern

page_text: may be produced. Now, as in this Invention it is only proposed at one and
the same time to work a number of figures similar to each other, if the
needles or hooks are placed parallel to each other, and at right angles with
the superficies of the cloth, at any fixed distance from each other, so that
the whole may move together, while the cloth remains stationary, then, if one
needle or hook, by perforating in the successive points required, makes any
given figure, every other needle will make one similar, or, if the whole needles
or hooks remain relatively stationary, and the motion is communicated to the
cloth, the same effect will be produced. I have tried both these plans, but I
prefer the last, because the effect is the same, and the machinery is much
more simple in construction and easier to work, for if the needles or hooks
move, the machinery which supplies them with thread must also move in the
same direction, and it is much easier to move the cloth than these two parts
of the machinery, which, for the sake of steadiness, must be stout and heavy.
I shall therefore describe the mode of producing patterns by moving the
cloth.
66
$6
66
The mechanical theorem upon which this motion depends is thus expressed
in the first and second corollaries to Sir Isaac Newton's Third Law of Motion;
as given inMotte's. translaation of Newton's Principia, in the edition
published in the year One thousand eight hundred and three, pages 15
and, 16, which corollaries are as follows:-Corollary 1st. "A. body by two
"forces conjoined will describe the diagonal parrallellogram in the same time
that it would describe the sides by these forces apart." Corollary 2d.
"And hence: is explained the composition of any one direct force out of any
two oblique forces, and, on the contrary, the resolution of any one direct
"force into any two oblique forces, which composition and resolution are
abundantly confirmed from mechanics." Which theorem I have applied to
the purposes of this machine in the following manner-The cloth to be tam-
boured is stretched in a vertical position between two cylinders placed parallel
to each other in an oblong frame of cast-iron or other convenient substance, which
slides freely up or down at pleasure in another frame. This last frame slides
freely from right to left, or vice versa, carrying the other frame along with
it, so that either a vertical or horizontal motion may at pleasure be communi-
cated to the cloth, and when both are communicated at the same time the
cloth moves in an oblique direction, the obliquity of which varies in proportion
to the quantity of motion given to each of the two direct forces. By these
means every rectilineal or curvilineal figure may be produced, and, conse-
quently, every pattern required. The construction of these frames which
produce, this effect will appear from the Drawings Nos. 1 and 2 hereunto

page_text: annexed, which are transverse vertical sections of the machine; and in order
to make these and the succeeding Drawings more intelligible, I have hereunto
annexed two Drawings, marked A and B, which are representations of the
wood-work which supports and connects the whole machine, to which I have
referred in describing the different parts of the machine, in order to shew in
what directions the sections are made. The one of these Drawings, viz*.
A, is an elevation of the wood-work as viewed from one side of the machine;
and in speaking of the sides of the machine I refer to the situation in which the
operator is placed at work, which is in front of the machine. Upon this Drawing
are marked and enumerated the different parts of which one side frame is
composed. On the opposite side of the machine is another side frame,
exactly similar. Drawing B is an elevation of the wood-work as viewed
from the front of the machine, or place where the operator sits at work. The
different section lines in these two Drawings refer to the different Drawings
to be afterwards described, and shew in what direction the machine is
supposed to be cut for the purpose of illustration.
..
I now proceed to describe the cloth frames and their motions, which are
illustrated by Drawings No. 1 and 2, hereunto annexed. Drawing 1st.
Fig. 1st is an elevated transverse section of the machine, cut perpendicularly
across in front of the cloth frames. The four A* in Figure 1st shew the
outer or horizontally moving frame, at each of the four corners of which
there are projections from the upper and lower bars in an horizontal line,
distinguished by four B, so that the frame may be moved from side to side,
as after mentioned. These projections pass through eyes or bushes in or
attached to the second and third side rails of the wood-work. By these
means the frame, which is distinguished by four A', is supported at each corner,
and slides freely from side to side when required. It is moved from side to
side by turning the male screw E, which turns in the female screw F, fixed to
the lower bar of the frame. This gives the horizontal motion. What is
represented in this frame by K, at opposite corners, is the inner or vertically
moving cloth frame, which slides freely up or down within the horizontally
moving frame above described. The vertical motion of this vertically
moving cloth frame is produced by the piece of metal M, passing through
two grooves in the pillars N, N, fixed to the lower bar of this inner or
vertically moving frame. In the centre of the said piece of metal M,
which is swelled for the purpose, is a female screw, worked by the male
screw L, by which the said piece of metal M is elevated or depressed at
pleasure, and carries the inner or vertically moving frame K along with it. The
ends of the said piece of metal M slide freely in the grooves in the said

page_text: pillars N, N, so as not to impede the lateral motion of the outer or horizon-
tally moving frame above described, when acted upon by the screw E. Q is a
cylinder resting on the pivots R, R, at each end thereof, which pass through
grooves made to receive them in the upper part of the two side bars of the outer
or horizontally moving frame. Round this cylinder pass two cords S, S, near to
each extremity thereof, and one end of each chord is fixed to the upper bar
of the said inner or vertically moving frame, and the other end of each of the
said cords, after passing over a pully fixed near to either extremity of the
lower bar of the said outer or horizontally moving frame, is made fast to
the lower bar near to either extremity of the said inner or vertically moving
frame. These chords serve the purpose of what some mechanics call bridles,
their use being to regulate the motion of the said inner or vertically moving
frame so that the same may rise or sink equally. T, T, are two counterpoises,
suspended by cords from the cylinder Q, to balance the weight of the said
inner or vertically moving frame, so that it may be moved with equal ease,
whether ascending or descending. U, U, are two cylinders parallel to each
other, turning, when required, upon pivots in the said inner or vertically moving
frame. Between these the cloth is stretched, and is rolled from the one upon
the other as often as is necessary, so as to roll round upon one cylinder the
cloth upon which the pattern required has been worked, and to present to the
needles or hooks the cloth upon which the pattern remains to be worked. On
the end of each cylinder is a ratchet wheel V, with a catch, to keep the cloth
to a proper degree of tension. These cylinders must be very true; and to
prevent warping, to which all wood is more or less liable, I generally make
them of block tin, and hollow in the middle. They have each a longitudinal
groove, to admit a small wooden shaft, to which is fixed a piece of stout cloth.
To the other end of this cloth is fixed the fabric upon which the pattern
required is to be worked. The selvedges or edges of the cloth are stretched
laterally by the plates or stretchers W, W, in which are a number of sharp
pins represented by dotts, on which the selvedges of the cloth are fixed. The
ends of the plates or stretchers W, W, slide in the boxes X, X, in which are a
number of holes to admit pins to prevent the plates or stretchers from yielding
when the cloth is drawn sufficiently tight. Y, Y, are two strong bars across
the machine, fixed firmly to the outer or horizontally moving frame at each
side thereof. Between these bars is another bar Z, in which is a hole opposite
to the point of each needle or hook. This bar Z is fixed to the second side rails
of the wood-work described above by the supporters D, D. The use of these
three bars is to prevent the cloth from yielding by its own elasticity when
pierced by the needles or hooks. The cloth is stretched between the two

page_text: cylinders passing in front of these three bars. By these means the two motions,
horizontal and vertical, are communicated to the cloth, and the combination of
these two motions; by means of the said screws, in different proportions,
produces every other motion required. In said Drawing No. 1 are given
supplementary figures, which shew more clearly the shape and construction of
some of the different parts. Figure 2nd and 3rd are front views of the eyes or
bushes C, as constructed by me, but which admit of various modes of construc-
tion. Fig. 4th is a plan of the male horizontal screw E, and female screw F,
as they will appear when the eye is perpendicular over them, the box which
contains the female screw F being fixed to A, the lower bar of the outer cloth
frame. The screw E revolves upon its own axis in the pieces G, G, which are
screwed fast to the breast beam a, which does not appear in Figure 1st, being
there supposed to be cut away, but which will appear clearly in Drawing 2d,
Fig. 9. In Fig. 4 it is represented as transparent, to shew the shape of G, G.
which are screwed to its lowest edge. On the end of the screw E is a bevel
wheel H, of thirty-two teeth; worked by a bevel pinion I of sixteen teeth;
which is turned by means of a small handle by the operator's right hand, when
a lateral motion of the frame is required: The pinion is fixed on a perpen-
dicular spindle, the supporters of which are also fixed to the upper and lower
sides of the breast beam a, next' to the cloth: Fig. 5 is an elevation of this
spindle, seen from the back of the machine. Fig. 6 is a profile section of the
breast beam a, with the upright screw L and its supporters, shewing: how
they are fixed to the beam a. M also appears here in profile. On the screw L
is fixed the spur wheel O of thirty-two teeth, turned by the pinion P of sixteen
teeth. This pinion is worked by the operator's left hand, where a vertical
motion of the frame is required. Fig. 7 is a profile section of the two frames.
shewn in Fig. 1, cut nearly in the middle, to the different parts of which I have
attached the same reference letters as in Fig. 1st, as the one merely shews the
same machinery in profile, which the other does in front. The shape of all the
parts is clearly shewn in the Drawings, so as to be obvious to a good mechanic
from a careful inspection of the Drawings. Fig. 8 is a plan of one of the four
stretcher boxes mentioned in Fig. 1st, as seen from above; with the screws:
which connect them with the upper and lower bars of the inner frame.
I next proceed to describe Drawing 2, Fig. 9, hereunto annexed. Fig. 9 is-
a vertical transverse section of the machine cut perpendicularly across behind
the cloth frames in the direction of the reference section line mentioned in
Drawing A. It is chiefly intended to shew how the horizontal screw E and
the vertical screw L appear when viewed from behind, and as a further illustra-
tion of the way in which they and their supporters are fixed to the breast

page_text: beam.a, which is here visible. A small part of the lower bar of the outer frame,
distinguished by four A, is represented as transparent, to shew the horizontal
screw E, and box with female screw, behind it, which would otherwise be hid.
All the reference letters in this Drawing are the same as in the former No. 1,
this being merely a view of the same machinery behind which Fig. 1 repre-
sents as seen in front and Fig. 7 in profile section. In Fig. 10 in this
Drawing the screws E and L, and machinery connected with them, are again
shewn as they would appear to an eye placed perpendicularly over them.
Fig. 11 shews part of the outer and inner cloth. frames, and how the grooves
which connect them are constructed.. Here, too, the eye is placed immediately
above the object: K is part of the upper or under bar of the inner frame (for.
both have the same shape). A is the side bar of the outer frame, seen in
section.. Fig. 13 shews how the end of the cross bar Y is fixed to A, the side
bar of the outer: frame; which appears in section, the eye being still above it.
K is the side bar of the inner frame, also seen in section..
These Drawings 1 and 2 contain: all the machinery necessary for stretching
the cloth, and also for shifting it, so as to produce any pattern. This; as
already described, is done by the operator's hands (by turning the screws) in.
the interval between. working every loop or stitch of which the: tambouring
is composed. The vertical screw L gives the: motion: up or down. The
horizontal screw E gives the motion right or left, as required. When both
screws are turned at the same time they produce an oblique; motion, varied at
pleasure by giving more or less motion to either screw; and as this obliquity
may be varied every stitch, all right or curved lines can be produced, and any
pattern formed. Most of the remaining motions: required in working are
produced by the feet pressing down alternately three treddles, as will be after-
wards described. The second operation is to perforate the cloth with the
needles or hooks, and bring them back without injuring the fabric. To
perforate the cloth with the needles, only one motion is necessary. As the cloth
is stretched across the machine in a vertical position, the needles, in order to be
at right angles to the superficies of the cloth; must also be placed in a frame
extending across the machine, and must lye in an horizontal position. The
motion communicated to this frame must be from: the front towards the back
of the machine, and the same motion reversed will bring it again to its former
place. This motion: is. effected in the following manner:-The four cin.
Drawing 8, Fig. 14, represent a rectangular frame of cast-iron, with project-
ing arms towards the front of the machine; which I call the needle carriage,
and which is parallel to the horizon: Upon its cross bar e, e, is placed the
frame which contains the needles, which will afterwards be described. This

page_text: needle carriage gives the perforating and returning motion to the needles. To
the back bar of this carriage V are attached two double-jointed pieces of
iron q, q, which connect V with two studs r, r, fixed perpendicularly in the
the roller s. In the roller are also fixed two horizontal studs t, t, from which
iron rods pass to the treddles below, to continue the connection to the moving
power which works these treddles. In Drawing 8, Fig. 35, this carriage and
the rollers appear in profile section. C, C, is one side of the needle carriage,
resting upon friction wheels in the bearer U, U, which are screwed to the
second side rails of the wood-work. q is one of the double-jointed pieces
connected at one end with the back bar of the carriage V, and at the other
end with the perpendicular stud r, fixed in the roller S. From the horizontal
back stud the iron rod W continues the connection to the treddle Y, and from
the front stud t the rod X continues the connection to the treddle X, Y, when
pressed down by the operator's right foot, by depressing the horizontal back
stud t, draws the carriage c, c, towards the back of the machine, and the needle
frame being fixed upon the cross bar e, e, of this carriage, the needles conse-
quently perforate the cloth; X, when pressed by the left foot, operates in an
opposite direction, and brings the carriage to its former position. But as all
tambouring consists of loops drawn successively through the cloth, and also
as each loop is drawn through that which preceded it, the instrument used in
the operation, altho' commonly called a needle, is (more properly speaking)
a hook. Now as this hook, after having perforated the cloth, must be open.
for the purpose of receiving the thread which forms the tambouring, means
must be used to shut it after it is supplied, and before it returns, otherwise it
would catch not only the thread but also part of the cloth and also the pre-
ceding loop, through the centre of which it passes in perforating.
To explain the means which I have used to effect this purpose, it will be
proper, in the first place, to explain the construction of the needle; and to avoid
obscurity I shall hereafter always use the term needle, altho', as before stated,
it might more properly be called a hook. The needle is a straight piece of
steel wire, near the point of which a barb is cut, similar to that of a fish hook;
under this barb a groove is struck longitudinally into the stem of the needle, by a
screw engine, with a chisel and bolster, much in the way practised by makers
of stoeking-frame needles; the needle and barb are then pointed sharp. The
barb is set straight, and not too high, much in the same shape as it appears
at N, in Drawing 3, Fig. 16. The needle is then tempered, and is ready for
use. The needle when to be used is put into the handle or case i, in
Figure 16, in the end of which a small hole is drilled, about an inch deep,
to receive it. I fix the needle into the handle with a cement composed of

page_text: common scaling-wax mixed with fine powdered brick-dust. This cement
when heated melts, but when cold holds very fast, so that a needle may easily
be taken out when requisite, by heating the handle in which it is fixed
sufficiently to dissolve the wax. In the longitudinal groove is placed a small
piece of wire, also grooved quite to the point, but without any barb, and which
I shall call the wire slider, for which see Figure 15. When this wire slider,
resting in the groove of the needle, is pushed towards the needle point, it slides
under the barb of the needle, when the groove in the wire slider receives the
barb, and the needle is shut. When the wire slider is drawn back it quits
the barb of the needle, and the needle is then open. The wire slider is fixed
with silk (thread to a piece of brass k, as in Figure 15, and this is screwed.
to a round hollow piece of brass 1, which is fitted upon the handle i, so
as to slide easily backward and forward. The whole may be seen, Fig. 20.
In that part of 1 which is opposite to where k is fixed is a long slott
through which a screw passes into the handle i (see Fig. 20 and 21); so
as to allow 1 to slide backward and forward, but to prevent it from turning
round on the handle, except when the handle also is turned, in which case it
goes along with it. Fig. 22 and 23 are end views of 1, to shew the bore
through which the handle i passes.
:.
:
The middle frame is next to be described. On the cross bar of the car-
riage e, e, is erected the needle frame, consisting of two bars f, f, and g, J,
placed on edge, parrallel to each other and to the cloth, with their lower edges
screwed fast to pieces on the cross bar e, e, at h, h, h, h. The needle handles,
of which twelve are represented between i, i, are of brass, turned round and
straight, and they are placed horizontally and parallel to each other in bushes
or eyes formed to receive them in the bars f, f, and g, g, so that they may
revolve freely on their own axes. The end of the handle which receives the
needle projects about two inches beyond the bar g, g, to receive the brass 1
(Fig. 20), and to allow it room to: slide. The bushes in the bar g, g, are
triangular notches, as shewn in Figs. 17 and 24, and on the top of the bar
are flat plates through which a screw passes to touch the upper part of each
handle gently, so that they may be always tight fitted, and at the same time
revolve freely when requisite. In the back bar f.f, the bushes are round
holes to receive the small pivot Y (Fig. 16), at the end of the handle i: On
this pivot a pinion Z, of sixteen or eighteen teeth, is fixed, which is worked by
a rack m, and thus the rototary motion is given to all the handles when
required. See Figs. 18 and 19. The way of placing the rack above the
handles appears by Fig. 18. The rack is hung on the bar f, f, and slides freely
from side to side. b, b, Fig. 14, is a bar fixed to f, f, through which a

page_text: number of screws pass; the end of each of which touches the pivot Y of each
needle handle, for the purpose of setting the needle a little towards the cloth,
if required. See Fig. 20. On each handle is a collar of brass, with one of
wire behind (Fig. 20), and a hole is drilled through the handle, and a pin
put thro' to prevent it from shifting. The pin is drawn when it is necessary
to take out a handle. Fig. 20 is a profile section of the carriage, the two
needle bars, which compose the frame, and a handle, pinion, collars, brasses,
slider, and needle, all above described. The top plates on the bar 9, 9, move
at one end on a joint or hinge, and are fixed with a screw at the other, so
that any handle may be taken out when required. I generally make these
plates from six to nine inches long each. The machinery necessary for
opening and shutting the needles is as follows:-The form of the wire slider,
Fig. 15, and its connection with the pieces of brass k and 1, having been.
already described, it is only necessary to shew how they are connected with
the machine, so as to move the slider backward and forward in the groove. in
the needle. When the needle is free from the cloth, the slider is drawn forward:
below the barb, and the needle is shut. When the needle moves forward
to enter the cloth, it becomes open, so that it may receive the thread. When
the needle returns, to disengage itself from the cloth, the slider, whose point
has also gone a little way through the cloth, remains stationary until the barb
of the needle has entered the groove in the slider; they then return together.
The mode of effecting this is as follows:-In each piece of brass 1 a hollow
is turned at a; between the needle frame bar g, g, and the cloth, hangs a
cross bar n, n; which I shall call the slider bar. This bar appears as looked
down upon in Fig. 4; its shape will appear in Fig. 25. This Figure is an
elevation of the slider bar n, n, as viewed from the front of the machine. It
is screwed at each end to two upright pieces o, o, hanging on the round
pivots d, d, screwed to the capes of the
vibrate freely backward and forward.
notch for each needle, as represented.
piece of brass 1 at a, in Fig. 20, and
vibrates, all the pieces of brass 1, and consequently' the sliders, are drawn
backward or forward on the handles, and at the same time the motion of the
handles on their own axes is not impeded. For the means of giving motion
to the bar n, n, see Drawing 8, Fig. 35. n and o are the slider bar and one
of the arms in profile section. To the arm o is fixed one end of the wire d,
the other end of which is connected with the crank e, working on a pin in the
back part of the wood-work, and to the other end of this crank is hung a
weight. The operation of this weight draws the bar n towards the back of
wood-work, so that the bar n, n, may
In the upper part of n, n, is a square
This notch receives the hollow in the
by these means, when the barn, n,

page_text: the machine, to shut the needle. When the bar is drawn far enough back, it
is stopped by two screws p, p, appearing. in Fig. 14, fixed to each arm o of
the bar n, and pressing against the cross bar e, e, of the carriage. To the
arm o is also fixed another wire f, connecting it with the lever g, which
swings freely on the pin: or screw nail fixed in the front post. J is another
lever working on a pin or nail passing through its centre into the lower side
rail. The back end of this lever is connected by a wire k, with a horizontal
stud 1, fixed in the roller S. The lower part of the lever 9 being stopped by
the front end of the lever i, prevents g, and consequently the bar n, from
moving along with the carriage, whereupon the needles open. When the
needles are about half way through the, cloth, the back end of i, being raised
by the wire k, the other end: is depressed, and the lower part of the lever g
disengaged; the bar n, and all the apparatus connected with it, is then
drawn towards the back of the machine by the weight behind, until the
lever g is stopped by the screw o.. This allows the sliders to go a little way:
through the cloth, but not so far as the; needles go, where they remain till, the
carriage returning, the screws p, p, in Fig: 14, are pushed back by the cross,
bar 6, e, as soon as the needles are shut. The back end of the lever i
then descends by the weight attached to it, the other end, rises, and the
machine is in its former position. As both this and the carriage motion,
formerly described take their motion: from the roller S, worked by the:
treddles Y and X, it is plain that when properly tempered they will move
together. An apparatus. as above described is connected with each end of
the slider bar n, n... This completes the machinery required to perforate the
cloth with the needles and bring them back without injuring the fabric. The
next operation required is to supply the needles with the thread or yarn
which forms the tambouring... This operation is performed in the interval after:
the needles have perforated the cloth and before they return. It consists
merely of two motions, first, each thread: must describe a small circle round;
its needle; secondly, after having completed the circle round the needle, each.
thread must be drawn towards the back; of the machine, to bring it under
the barb into the hook or eye of the needle. I call this operation feeding, and
the needle by which it is performed the feeding needle, to distinguish it from
the needle formly described, which may be called the tambouring needle; and:
I shall now describe the requisite machinery. The whole of this machinery.
is supported by a beam of wood A, A, as in Fig. 14, extending. horizontally:
across the machine, a little behind the cloth to which it is parallel. Its ends
rest on the two second side rails; through each of these ends a bolt passes;
horizontally, by which the beain A, A, is screwed to the back supporters u, u,:

page_text: of the needle carriage, as shewn in section by Fig. 35. The machinery, as
seen from above, is represented in Fig. 14. B, B, is a bar of wood screwed
to one of iron, in which are fixed the brass feeding needles represented
between C, C, each having a small hole drilled through it near the point,
through which a thread passes. The cranks F, F, are fitted into the
standards L, L, so as to revolve upon their own axes. On the axes of each
crank is a bevil pinion of sixteen teeth; these pinions are turned by two
bevil wheels of thirty-two teeth, fixed near the ends on the iron spindle E, E,
hung at either end on a centre screw, so as also to revolve freely on its own
axis. The other or front ends of the cranks F, F, pass through two bushes or
round holes below the feeding bar B, B, into which they are fitted easy, so
that when the cranks are turned once round by the spindle E, E, performing
half a revolution, the bar B, B, is carried along with them, and the point of
each feeding needle describes a smalle circle round its corresponding tambouring
needles. B, B, must also be fitted to slide easily backward and forward on the
cranks F, F. B, B, is connected by two iron rods G, G, with two upright
arms H, H, made fast on an horizontal spindle I, I, hung in centre screws
so as to vibrate freely on its own axis. Fig. 26 is a profile section of the
same machinery. B, the feeding bar; with one needle C; F, one of the
cranks; G, one of the iron rods connecting the bar B with one of the upright
arms H; K; one of the bearers of the horizontal spindle I, near the ends of
which the upright arms H, H, are fixed, and from the middle of which the
lever M projects horizontally forward; A is the cross beam in profile. Fig. 27
is an elevation of the same machinery from behind. By a careful inspection
of of Figs. 14, 26, and 27, the construction of all the parts of this machinery
will be better understood by a mechanic than by any description, it being
always recollected that Fig. 14 is a ground plan or view of the machinery
from above; Fig. 26, a profile or view from one side; and Fig. 27, a direct
elevation or view from behind. On the middle of the spindle E, E, is a
pully D, consisting of two pieces. The first; D 1, Fig. 27, is made fast upon
the spindle. The edge is cut as a ratchet wheel of sixteen teeth, and on the
flat side is cut another ratchet with a number of small teeth, as represented
in the small Figure D 1, annexed to Fig. 27. The second piece is a broad.
pully, to receive a cord passing three or four times round it. One of its flat
sides is a little hollowed, and has a spring catch fixed into it, as shewn in
the view D 2. This piece is fitted close to D 1, so that the spring catch rests
in the ratchet on the flat side of D 1, and when D 2 is turned round it
carries D 1 along with it; but D 2, being loose upon the spindle, will turn
back without communicating the motion to D 1, which is further stopped by

page_text: a catch resting in the ratchet of sixteen teeth upon its edge. This is so similar
to the barrel of a clock or common roasting jack that it will be easily under-
stood. The motions of the feeding machinery are as follow:-A cord passes
three or four times round the pully D on the middle of the spindle E, E,
as shewn in the profile section, Fig. 29. One end of the chord is fixed to
the upper end of a piece of iron N, and the other passing over a pully
behind has a weight attached to it. The lower end of N is connected by a
wire with one end of the lever O, moving at its centre upon a joint in a piece
of iron fixed to the middle treddle P; the other end of O is connected by a
wire with the breast beam a, a, as shewn in Figures 34 and 35. When the
treddle P is pressed down by the operator's right heel, it pulls the chord, and
consequently turns round the pully D, and gives the rotatory motion to the
feeding machinery. When the heel is eased or withdrawn, the weight
attached to the cord brings back the treddle and loose part of D to their
former positions. In the piece of iron N is cut a notch, which, when it is:
drawn up by the weight, carries up the horizontal lever M along with it. The
rising of M makes the two upright arms H, formerly described, move towards:
the back of the machine, and by the connection rods G, G, draw, back the
feeding bar B, B, which thus pulls the threads into the hooks or eyes of
the tambouring needles. See again Figs. 14, 26, 27. Fig. 30 shews N in
front and M endways, as also does. Fig. 31. To N, as in Figures 28 and 31,
is fixed a wire R, which, going in a horizontal direction to the left side of the
machine, connects N with one end of the lever S. From the other end of S a
wire T, connects S with a crank U, fixed perpendicularly to the breast beam,
a, a. Fig. 28 is a ground plan, the eye being above. From the other end:
of the crank U a wire V descends perpendicularly to a stud W, fixed in the
left treddle X, as is very plainly shewn in Fig. 32, which is an elevation.
When the treddle X is pressed down to bring out the needles, as already.
described, the connecting wires V, T, R, being pulled, draw N towards the
left; the notch thus quits its hold of M, which then descends; by the weight.
suspended from it, and the feeding needles resume their former position close
behind the cloth. By these means, first, the circular motion of the feeding:
needles round the tambouring needles is effected; secondly, the feeding needles
are drawn back to bring the thread under the barb of the tambouring needles;
and, thirdly, when the tambouring needles quit the cloth, the feeding needles
return to their former place. The yarn or thread is warped and rolled round-
a cylinder, as practised by weavers.. This cylinder is hung horizontally across
the machine above the beam A, A, to which its supporters are screwed. A.
section of it appears at y in Fig. 35, and an end view of y in Fig. 34. On

page_text: the end of the cylinder is a small pully, to which is fixed one end of a
cord, the other end of which passes over another, a small pully, fixed to any
convenient part of the wood-work; a small weight is hung to this end, to keep
the yarn at a proper tightness. Besides this, a very light piece of wire hangs
on each thread behind the feeding bar B. B, to assist in tightening any one
which may be slacker than the rest. In Fig. 83 is a ground plan of the
treddles. The middle treddle P, which gives motion to the feeding machinery,
is longer than the other two, and has a cross-piece Z, extending to the lower
side rail, which is pressed by the right heel when the motion is to be given.
This saves the trouble of shifting the right foot from Y to P. The end of P is
fixed by a cord or chain to the floor at some distance, in order to prevent its
rising more than enough. The supplementary Figures in Drawing 6 shew
the treddles in different points of view. This description completes the parts
necessary for working the tambouring. The fastening the threads, which is
the last thing in the operations required, is quite a separate part, and only used
when a pattern. is completed. I will therefore first describe the connection
of all the working parts, as shewn in Figs. 34, 35, and 36, which will be little
else than a recapitulation of what has already been described, and afterwards
take the fastening machinery by itself. Fig. 34 is a profile elevation of the
machine directly viewed from the right sides. Fig. 35 is a profile section of
the machine, which is here represented as if cut asunder near the middle. Its
chief use is to shew the connection of some parts which are hid by the inter-
vention of the side frame of the wood-work in Fig. 34. Fig. 36 is a perspec-
supposed to view the
tive view of the machine. The eye of the spectator is
machine about four inches higher than the cape of the side frame, about six
inches behind the machine, and about eight feet distant to the right side. In
the perspective view of the machine is given, in this Figure, the yarn cylinder
y is omitted, because its situation is sufficiently shewn by Figs. 34 and 35, and
it would hide much of the machinery if introduced in Fig. 36. Some small
parts shown in the former Figures are also omitted. To make these three
Figures, viz, Figs. 34, 35, and 36; understood, it appears only necessary to
attend to the different parts, the letters referring to which respectively are the
same in all the three Figures, and are also the same which have been before
used when describing the parts separately. The only part appearing in these
three Figures, not described before, is a screw. P, to regulate the extent of
motion of the carriage c, c, by touching u, when the needles are sufficiently far
through the cloth, and another screw q, which, by touching or swinging lever
r, stops the end of the carriage frame c, when it has returned after the cloth
is perforated by the tambouring needles. If r, which swings freely upon its

page_text: joint, is pushed to one side, the carriage will come the breadth of r farther out,
which is necessary when fastening the ends of the threads, as after described.
S is a catch, to keep the machine fast when not at work. It hooks on a cross-
piece fixed to c, and represented in Fig. 14. In order to work the machine,
which I now proceed to describe, referring more immediately to Fig. 36, the
operator seats himself in front of the breast beam a, at the middle, looking
towards the machine. His right hand is placed on the handle which turns the
horizontal screw E; his left on the handle of the upright screw L; his right
foot is placed on the treddle Y; his left foot on the treddle X. A pattern for
one needle is printed upon the cloth, which, being traced by that needle, all
the others make similar figures. Having turned his screws until the point of
the cloth meant to be perforated comes opposite to the needle, he presses
down the treddle Y with the ball of his right foot; this carries the needles
through the cloth until the carriage c, c, is stopt by the stop screw P coming
in contact with the standard u, u. The same pressure opens the hooks, to receive
the
yarn, as formerly described. He then presses down the cross-piece Z with
his right heel, and immediately allows it to rise again to its former position.
This produces the two motions required for feeding,. as formerly described.
And, lastly, he presses down the treddle X with his left foot, which shuts the
needles, and draws them out of the cloth, each bringing the loop formed by
the yarn along with it. When far enough out, the carriage is stopt by coming
in contact with r and q (see Fig. 34). He then, by means of the two screws,
shifts the cloth until the next point to be perforated comes opposite to his
pattern needle, and proceeds as before. The following general remarks may
tend to make some parts of the operation more obvious:-When the yarn has.
been wound on the yarn cylinder y, each thread is put through the small hole
drilled near the point of the feeding needle C. It is then put through the
cloth by a common sewing needle, and made fast in front. That part of the
tambouring needles which forms the hook or eye is always kept in the same
line of direction in which that part of the pattern which is working runs;
and when the line of direction requires to be changed the relative position of
the hooks must also be changed in a correspondent direction. This is done by
turning each needle handle on its own axis by means of the rack m, which is
moved from side to side by the operator's hand. The feeding needles must
perform exactly one revolution at each time, and they must stop at that point of
the circle which they describe immediately behind the hook or eye of the
tambouring needle. Of course, when the tambouring needles are turned to
assume a new position by means of the rack m, the feeding needles must also
be moved round until they correspond.

page_text: Having thus described, as shortly and at the same time as clearly as I am
able, the construction and use of the various parts of this machine, I have only
to express an earnest wish that any mechanic who studies this Specification
will bear constantly in mind that in all the Drawings annexed the same letter
constantly refers to the same part of the machine, in whatever point of view or
in whatever Figure it is represented. By attending to this he will find every
part in all its different points of view in one or other of the Drawings, and this
will probably assist him more in forming a correct idea of their shapes and
construction than any description which can be given. The Drawings were
taken, with very great care and attention, from a machine which has been for
some time actually at work, and are in general upon a scale of two inches
to a foot. It only remains to describe the manner of fastening the ends of the
threads. To fasten the end of every thread when a pattern is compleated it is
only necessary to draw its end through the last loop. If the operator passes a
common sewing needle, with a thread attached to it, through every loop, it will
keep the figures sufficiently fast until the whole piece of cloth is tamboured,
when the piece is finished, and taken out of the machine. The threads which
cross behind between the flowers are clipped away; the threads drawn through
the loops, as above described, are pulled away. The end of each thread which
composed the tambouring then comes through the last loop, and every figure is
made fast. When this mode is pursued, no fastening machinery is required, the
whole being done by the operator's hand. The following plan, however, is
quicker, for which I shall first describe the machinery used, and then the
manner of using it. Fig. 37 represents a transverse vertical section of the
machine cut in front of the breast beam a. All the machinery, except that
used for fastening, is omitted in this Figure. The frame, distinguished by four
A's placed at its corner, hangs perpendicularly in front of the cloth, and as
near to it as possible without touching it. This frame is supported at the top
by two centre screws passing through the ends of the side bars of a horizontally
placed frame, above seen as from the front N, N. The real shape of this
frame is represented in Fig. 43, where it is viewed from above, and is distin-
guished by four N's placed at its corners. This frame is supported by two
centre screws at T, T, which are fixed to the front cross rail of the wood-work.
The frames nove on the center screws at A and T as joints, so that the frame
pointed out by four A's, in Fig. 37, slides up and down freely. The levers
E, E, and weights attached to them, serve as counterpoises. The lower part
of the upright bars of the frame pointed out by four A's pass at M, M, through
two eyes fixed to the breast beam a, to keep the frame steady at bottom.
Within this frame is another, distinguished by four B's, which is hung from the

page_text: cylinder D, D, which turns on gudgeons in its ends, which pass through eyes
supported by the capes of the wood-work C, C, C, C. Four pieces fixed to this
frame pass through four eyes in the frame marked by the four A's, and to the
back of the cylinder D, D, a weight may be hung as a counterpoise. By
these means either of the frames A or B will slide up or down independant of
the other. The frame distinguished by four A's carries a horizontal bar
F, F, supported by two centre screws passing through the sides of the
frame into sockets in the ends of the bar F, F. On these sockets the
bar turns as on a joint, backwards or forwards. The frame distinguished
by four B's carries the horizontal bar G in front of the bar F, F, from
the ends of which projecting round pieces of metal pass through eyes
in the sides of the frame B. By these means the bar G also slides from
side to side when required. The horizontal bar F, F, part of which is
shewn in Fig. 41, carries a set of double wires H, H, shaped as in the
Figure. These wires are pointed sharp, and are of unequal length. In
the side of the longest is a small longitudinal groove, in which the point of the
shortest rests by being bent a little inwards. These wires are placed at the
same distance as the tambouring needles formerly described, so that the point
of each of the longest wires may rest exactly below the corresponding needle.
K, K, are temper screws, to elevate or depress any wire which may require it,
independantly of the rest. The bar G, G, part of which is shewn in Figure
42, carries a set of wires I, I, the ends of which are sharp, and turned horizon-
tally towards the operator's left hand at right angles to their stems. These
wires are also below their corresponding needles, and in front of the double
wires H, H, as shewn in Figs. 37 and 40. L. L, are temper screws, to
elevate or depress them when necessary. These wires H, H, and I, I, are
cast in plates of tin, in moulds made for the purpose, and these plates are
fixed to the bars which carry them, as shewn in Figs. 41 and 42. In order to
work this machinery, when a pattern is completed the tambouring needles are
turned by the rack, as formerly described, until their barbs are straight upwards.
The needles are brought a little further than usual from the cloth by the means
formerly explained. The frame distinguished by four A's is then pushed up-
wards by the operator's hand till the long points of the double wires H, H, pass
through each loop of the tambouring. The tambouring needles then are made
to perforate the cloth, their points passing between the two wires of H, H,
and another loop is wrought in the usual way. The bar G, G, is then drawn
a little to the right hand. The frame distinguished by four B's is raised up.
The bar G, G, is next brought again towards the left, until the cross point of
each of the wires I, I, is above the corresponding loop. By depressing the
TR

page_text: The rack is
The tambour
The bar F, F, is
bar G, G, a little, till they are rather under the tainbouring needles, each loop
is caught hold of by the cross points of the wires I, I. The sliders which
shut the tambouring needles, already described, are then drawn back until the
needles are open. The last-wrought loops are then drawn out of the barbs or
hooks of the tambouring needles by means of the wires I, I.
then turned until the barbs point downwards to the floor.
needles then approach the cloth until their points touch it.
again elevated a little. The square shoulders of the double wires H, H, carry
up the loops preceeding the last, and which have rested on them since they
divided them at the beginning of the fastening operation, as formerly described.
The hooks of the tambour needles receive these loops. The slides are again
brought forward, and the needles shut. The needles have now quitted the
last loop, and caught the preceding one. The bar F, F, carrying the double
wires H, H, is then sunk down to its former place, the bar G, G, pulled again
towards the right, to disengage the cross points of the wires I, I, from the
loops; the bar G, G, is then also sunk to its former place; the needles are
then pushed again through the cloth, but are immediately returned without
being fed; the second last loop is by these means drawn through the last,
and forms a kind of knot, and the operation is compleated. The operator
shifts to another figure, and goes on as before. On one end of the cylinder
D, D, is a ratchet wheel O, with a catch P, which falls into it, when the
frame distinguished by four B's is raised to a proper height, as before described.
The use of this is to keep the said frame steady until the operation of fasten-
ing is performed. When the frame is to be pulled down to its former position,
the catch is lifted up by pulling down the handle V, as in Fig. 44, suspended
to the crank S, which turns upon a pin in the upper cross rail of the wood-
work. The crank S is connected with the crank Q by the wire R, and the
crank is connected with the catch P by the wire U. In Figure 43 this
appears as seen from above, in Fig. 44 as seen in front, and in Fig. 45 as
seen from one side. Fig. 38 is a profile section of the frames distinguished
by four A's and four B's. Fig. 39 shews one of the eyes M from above.
The machine described above may be made to perform all its operations by
the application of any mechanical power, in the following manner :-It will
appear from the above description that, as the formation of any pattern is
effected by turning the two screws formerly described, the correctness of the
figure will depend upon the skill and attention of the operator; but if the
machinery should be so constructed that these effects are produced by a
regular uniform motion of the machine itself, it is evident that more regularity
will be obtained than can be expected from the operation of any person, how-

page_text: ever steady and attentive. This will be particularly useful when a large
quantity of cloth is to be tamboured of one pattern.
I shall now describe the machinery which I have invented for effecting
this purpose, and which may be added to any machine constructed according
to the plans and descriptions given above. The wooden framework for carry-
ing and connecting this additional machinery with the former at the right
side of the machine consists of a side frame, exactly the same as that shewn
in Drawing A, and its connection with the former wood-work is shewn in
Drawing B. The Nos. 11, 12, distinguish the additional side frame, as seen
from the front of the machine. Nos. 13, 13, are two horizontal beams or rails
which connect the side frame 11, 12, with the right side frame of the machine,
as formerly described. Two cross rails, exactly the same, form the connection
behind. It has been formerly observed and explained, that the whole form-
ation of figures depends upon the application of two forces; the one in an
horizontal and the other in a vertical direction. I shall describe the machinery
which gives these motions by this plan. As the different parts of the machine
in the former Drawings have been distinguished by letters, I shall in these
use numbers to avoid confusion. In Figure 46 is represented a horizontal
section of the machine, with the additional machinery. Those parts formerly
described are again distinguished by the same letters formerly used; the addi-
tional parts by numbers. The following description refers to Drawings
No. 12, 13, 14, and 15, in all of which the numeral references constantly
denote the same part of the machine. The horizontal spindle 15 is supported
by centre screws 46, 46, fixed to the cross beams or rails 13, 13, so as to
revolve freely on its own axis. On it are fixed four wheels, distinguished by
Nos. 16, 17, 18, and 20. No. 20 is a ratchet wheel, in which are cut just so
many teeth as there are to be stitches or loops in the figure intended to be
tamboured. This wheel is moved one tooth in the interval between every
stitch or loop, by means of the catch 21 and lever 38, shewn in Figure 47,
which is an elevation viewed from the front. The lever 38 being pulled
towards the left side of the machine by the operator, or person attending the
machine if working by power, draws the catch 21 along with it, and conse-
quently turns the wheel 20 and spindle 15 a little round. The lower part of
the lever 38 works in a box 39, with a stop screw in each end, so as, by
stopping the lever when drawn from side to side, to confine the quantum of
motion to a single tooth of the ratchet wheel 20, and neither more nor less.
The horizontal motion of the frame is produced by means of the wheel 18
turning on the spindle 15 along with the ratchet wheel 20. To the right side
B 2

page_text: of the outer or horizontally moving frame A, formerly described, is fixed a
piece of metal distinguished by No. 19, the end of which presses upon the
edge of the wheel 18. To the said outer or horizontally moving frame is
also fixed one end of a cord 47 (see Fig. 47), passing over a pully 48, fixed
to any convenient part of the right side frame of the wood-work, by the other
end of which cord is suspended a weight 49. This weight pulls the outer
horizontally-moving frame towards the right side of the machine, and keeps
the piece 19 always pressing on the edge of the wheel 18. The horizontal
screw, formerly described, and female screw, are taken of. Now, if the circum-
ference of this wheel were a circle, no motion could be generated by its revo-
lution on the spindle 15, because, every line drawn from its centre to any point
in its circumference being equal, the horizontally-moving frame would always
remain stationary. To construct a wheel which will produce the horizontal
motions required, the mechanic, having first turned his wheel into a circular
form, must consider the figure he has to produce, and what horizontal motions
of the frame are necessary for that purpose. Let him then divide the circum-
ference of the wheel 8 into as many equal parts as he has formerly cut teeth
in the ratchet wheel 20, which, as before remarked, correspond with the
number of stitches or loops in his figure. From these divisions he will draw
lines to the centre of the wheel as radii of the circle. Beginning, then, at
the point where his horizontally-moving frame will be nearest the left side of
the frame, he must then go round the divisions in the circumference of his
wheel, and consider what motion, if any, is required in each. When a motion
of the frame towards the right is required, that division of the circumference
of the wheel 18 which is then to come in contact with the piece 19 must be
brought so much nearer the centre, by cutting away part of the circumference;
then the horizontally-moving frame, being always pulled towards the right by
the weight 49, will move in that direction until the piece 19 is stopped by
that point in the circumference of the wheel 18 which is then in contact
with it. When an opposite motion of the frame A is required, the point in
the circumference of the wheel 18, which comes in contact with 19, must be
left farther from the centre of the wheel. The wheel in revolving will then
push the frame towards the left. When no horizontal motion is required,
that part of the wheel 18 is made perfectly circular. Fig. 50 and 51 repre-
sent two wheels of this kind. The mode of forming their circumferences is
there represented. Wheels of this description are known by many mechanics
by the name of traverse wheels. The wheel 17 operates upon the vertically-
moving or inner frame formerly described, and distinguished by four K's, in a

page_text: similar manner to that in which the wheel 18, just now described, acts upon
the outer or horizontally-moving frame. Its circumference is cut upon the
same principle, approaching to or receding from the centre, as the figure may
require, and is made circular when no motion is to be produced.
I shall now describe the machinery which connects this wheel 17 with
the vertically-moving frame upon which it operates. So much of the
counterpoise weights T, T, formerly described, are taken off, as will allow
the vertically-moving or inner frame to descend by its own weight. On
the centre of the upper bar of this frame, distinguished by four K's in
Figure 47, are fixed two projecting studs, 45, the front one only of which can
here be visible; a full view is given in Fig. 48. These studs rests in any of
the notches in the hanging piece 44, as required. The upper end of this
hanging piece 44 is connected by a joint with one end of the horizontal
Jever 43, supported at the centre by a strong beam of wood 50, resting on the
front and back rails of the wood-work. To the other end of the horizontal
lever 43 is joined a hanging piece 42. To the cross tail of this hanging
piece 42 are attached two strong wires 41, 41, which, passing on either side
of the spindle 15 (in Fig. 46), continue the connection to a lever 40, extending
from the back to the front of the machine, the end of which lever only appears
in Fig. 47, confined between the sheers 52, fixed to the front cross rail 13.
This lever 40 appears very fully in Fig. 49, which is an end elevation. The
hanging piece 42, and one of the connecting wires 41, attached below to the
lever 40, is appears in profile. The inner or vertically-moving frame, being so
balanced as to descend by its own weight, the lever 40 is consequently pressed
against the edge of the wheel 17 directly under its centre; and when any
point in the circumference of which 17 is farther from its centre than the
preceding, it pushes down the lever 40, which by the connection raises the
frame upon which it operates; and when any point in the circumference
of the wheel 17 is nearer to its centre than the point preceding, the lever 40
is permitted to use, and the frame connected with it descends by its own
weight. The vertical screw is now taken off, or the cross piece M may rest
below the pillars N, N, formerly described, to raise the vertical frame by the
When shifting from any row of Figures to the next, the notches in
44 are for this purpose. M must be clear of N, N, in working on the spindle,
another wheel, 16, which, like the former, acts as a traverse. It gives the
rotatory motion to the needle handles which were, as formerly described,
moved by the operator's hand. The motion is produced as follows:-A
lever 22, as in Figs. 49. and 46, moves horizontally on a joint near the back of
screw.

page_text: the machine, and extends to the front. From this lever a strong wire 24,
as in Fig. 46, connects with the slider 25, moveable from side to side in
grooves, formed in the supporters 37, 37, in Fig. 47. To this slider 25 is
fixed a piece of metal 51, as in Fig. 46, placed at right angles from the slider
towards the cloth in an horizontal direction. In this piece 51 is an oblong
hole or slott through which passes a vertical pin fixed to the rack m, formerly
described. By these means the slider 25 carries the rack m along with it,
when moved from side to side; but the hole or slot in the piece 51, being
oblong, does not impede the motion of the rack m, when carried by the needle
frame (to which it is attached, as described before,) backwards or forwards, to
perforate or return from the cloth. The next thing to be described is the
connection between the slider 25, above described, and the spindle E, for
turning the feeding needles, for it will be recollected that they must correspond.
In the former description the change of position of the tambouring needles
was produced by the operator's hand; the change of the feeding needles by his
right heel; but when all the parts are to be worked by machinery all must
be connected. Upon the slider 25 is a rack 26, fixed to its upper edge. This
rack communicates motion to a pinion 27, on one end of the horizontal
spindle 28, on the other end of which is a bevel wheel 29, turning another
bevel wheel 30, on one end of another horizontal spindle 31, on the other end
of which a spur wheel 32, working another spur wheel 33, on the spindle E,
compleats the connection. The rack 26 on the slider 25 gives only half
a revolution to the spindle 22 for every revolution which the rack m gives to
the tambouring needles. The remaining wheels, 29, 30, 32, and 33, have all
an equal number of teeth. By these means the tambouring and feeding
needles revolve together; for it was formerly explained that half a revolution of
the spindle E gives a whole révolution to the cranks F, and consequently
to the feeding needles. A cord from the pully 36, which is fixed on the
spindle 28, suspends a weight, the operation of which makes the lever 22,
supported at its end by 23, constantly press the edge of the wheel 16. 53 is a
small bell, the hammer of which, when acted on by a pin in the wheel 20,
rings, to give notice when a pattern is finished. The piece which supports the
end of the spindle 31, where the spur wheel 32 is fixed, is jointed at bottom, to
allow the said supporter to move a little backward or forward at the top, this
carrying along with it the end of 31, where 32 is fixed; the wheels 32 and 33
are thus engaged or disengaged as required. Both parts of the pully D,
formerly described, are in this plan loose upon the
of D are fixed a number of pins, as represented.
spindle E; but in one side
When D is pulled towards

page_text: the right hand, these pins lay hold of a catch 54 in the spindle E. D, when
turned by the treddle P, as formerly described, will then carry E along with it.
When D returns towards the left, the pins quit their hold of the catch 54, and
D or E will then move independent of each other. In D there is a groove
resting in a vertical piece of iron 34, open like a fork at top, and jointed at
bottom, so that the top, may move a little from side to side, and carry D along
with it, in order to engage or disengage the pins, as above mentioned. From the
right treddle Y, formerly described, is a wire 58, in the supplementary outline
passing through a vertical hole in the beam A, to a crank 57, placed in a ver-
tical position on the said beam, and moveable on its centre. From the other end
of the crank 57 the wire 56 continues the connection to 34, above described,
as moving the pully D from side to side. From 34 in Fig. 46 another
wire 55, connects it with one end of the crank 53, similar to 57, but placed
horizontally. The other end of this crank operates on the jointed supporter of
31, formerly described. When the treddle Y is depressed to perforate the
cloth, D, by the above connection, is drawn to the right, and the pins lay hold
of the catch 54 on the spindle E. At the same time, one end of the crank being
also pulled towards the right of the wire 55, the supporter of 31 is pressed
towards the back of the machine, and the wheels 32 and 33 are disengaged
from each other. A spring 35, resting behind the supporter of 31, brings the
machinery last described to its former position as soon as the treddle rises
again; thus the spindle E is alternately connected with the parts of the
machine from which it must receive its motions. The connection of every part
being now compleated, all will receive the necessary motions from the three
treddles, and it only remains to apply the power to these treddles. If it
be wished to move by a rotatory motion, it is only necessary to erect a
horizontal spindle or shaft across the machine. On this shaft fix two pullies,
the one pressing the right treddle Y, and the other the middle treddle P, at
the same points where the operator's feet would be in the former plan. Then, if
the circumference of these pullies be cut or shaped upon a similar plan to that
mentioned when describing the traverse wheels 16, 17, 18, one revolution of
the shaft will act in the same way as the alternate pressure of the operator's
feet, a sufficient weight attached to the left treddle will produce the returning
motion, and supersede the use of the third pully. Some mechanics distinguish
rotatory pieces acting in this way by the name of wipers, and they are so
generally known as to render any further description or Drawings superfluous.
Any power capable of turning this may be applied, at discretion. The person
who attends the machine has then only to turn the wheel 20 one notch in the

page_text: achine when necessary.
In witness whereof, I, the said John Duncan, have set my hand and seal
to these presents, at London, this Twenty-seventh day of June, in the
year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and four.
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of June, in the year above mentioned, the aforesaid John Duncan came
before our Lord the King in His Chancery, and acknowledged the Speci-
fication aforesaid, and all and every thing therein contained, in form above
written. And also the Specification aforesaid was stamped according to the
tenor of the Statute in that case made and provided