Improvements in the Manufacture of Felt Hats and Apparatus therefor.
Year: 1897

page_text: PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in the Manufacture of Felt Hats and Apparatus
therefor.
I, JOSEPH BANCROFT HARRISON, of St. Thomas' Works, Stockport, in the County of
Chester, Hat Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention to be as
follows:-
Hitherto in the manufacture of felt hats it has been customary to steam the brims
after the crown or body of the hats has been finished for the purpose of giving it the
desired shape or curl the brim in the mean time remaining unfinished the finishing
process being applied after being shaped or curled.
This method or process is objectionable as the steaming is detrimental to the brim
and the heat or steam is liable to penetrate to the finished crown or body and injure
it.
I find that much better results can be obtained and a much better finished brim
can be secured by first finishing the brim in the flat state and then curling it by
means of the pressure on one side of a heated pad filled with sand and a spray or jet
of steam directed merely against the edge at the point where the curl takes place.
In carrying out my improved method I first finish the brim when flat on both
sides same as the body or crown. I then apply to it the ordinary shaping block and
bring upon one side the pressure of a heated pad (formed preferably by a heated sand
bag). This is brought down upon the brim which is softened thereby without being
exposed to inoisture. Around the edge of the brim I apply a steam jet issuing from
a number of perforations which cause it to impinge upon the very part where the
curl takes place and thus the finish of the brim is not injured or destroyed and the
subsequent finishing is unnecessary.
The heated pad is supported by mechanism connected to levers or treadles by which
it can be lowered and raised as required. The steam is admitted through a perforated
pipe situated to surround the shaping block and the brim of the hat. The table upon
which the operation is carried out is connected to the tap or valve by which the
steam is admitted to the perforated pipe so that the operation of applying the heated
pad upon the brim also applies the steam jet or spray to the edges.
1007
WM. P. THOMPSON & Co.,
6, Bank Street, Manchester, Patent Agents.

page_text: Improvements in the Manufacture of Felt Hats and Apparatus
therefor.
I, JOSEPH BANCROFT HARRISON, of St. Thomas' Works, Stockport, in the County of
Chester, Hat Manufacturer, do hereby declare the nature of this invention and in
what manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascer-
tained in and by the following statement :-
Hitherto in the manufacture of felt hats it has been customary to first finish the
crown or body of the hat, then to finish the upper side of the brim then to steam and
curl the brim and finally to finish the underside of the brim. In the steaming of the
brim it has not been thought necessary to in any way protect the brim but to apply
the steam all over both sides of the brim.
This application of the steam to the whole surface of the brim is not required for
the purpose of curling and is positively detrimental or injurious to the brim by
opening the felt and destroying the lustre and appearance of the finished side and
rendering the other side more difficult to finish in addition to which it is much more
difficult to finish the brim on account of the arch than when flat before curling.
There has also been the liability of the steam penetrating to the finished crown or
body and injuring it.
I find that much better results can be obtained and a much better finish can be
imparted to the brim especially to the underside which is much more exposed to view
by first finishing both sides of the brim when in a perfectly flat state and protecting
the brim both top and bottom from the action of the steam and applying steam and
softening merely to the extreme edge to which the curl is to be given.
The invention will be fully described with reference to the accompanying drawings
in which as examples two forms of machine suitable for the process are illustrated.
"
Fig. 1. Sectional elevation showing the machine I prefer to employ.
Fig. 2. Side elevation (enlarged) of block for receiving the hat.
Fig. 3. Plan of same.
Fig. 4. Sectional elevation.
Fig. 4. Modified arrangement of steaming apparatus.
Fig. 5. Front elevation of a modified form of machine.
Fig. 6. Transverse sectional elevation of same.
Fig. 7. Plan of plate for protecting the underside of the brim.
In carrying out the invention I take the hat after the crown or body has been
finished in the usual way and I completely finish the brim while in the flat state.
This may be done by hand or preferably in a machine by which both sides of the
brim are smoothed and finished at one operation and I then steam and curl the edge
of the brim while the remainder of the brim is protected from the action of the steam
which is applied to the edge.
A block or shape A is prepared of the desired form to receive the hat upon the
upper curved edge a of which the under side of the brim rests and a pad B or plate C
is applied with a considerable amount of pressure to the under side of the brim to
hold it tightly compressed to the block and prevent the penetration of steam to
either side, the edge of the brim being drawn tightly into the groove a¹ of the block
by a string D to give the desired amount of curl and steam is brought into contact
with the edge all round to soften it and cause it to set to the curl. In the machine
shown in Figs. 1 to 4 the block A is set upon plate E suspended or held supported
by weights W and chains w a short distance above a fixed bench or table F. Around
the block A is fitted a cover or shield G which is fixed to the bench F by the
brackets g. The shield G may be of sheet iron or other suitable material and the

page_text: brackets g may be of angle iron or otherwise constructed. In the interior of
the cover or shield G is placed a band or ring H of rubber or other flexible material
to form a steam tight joint around the block A when it is in position and yet permit
of the block being freely lifted in and out. Around the interior of the cover or
shield G is placed a steam pipe K with a number of holes or perforations through
which the steam jets issue to impinge upon the edge of the brim. A tap or valve k
admits steam to the perforated pipe K. A lever L is connected to the suspended
plate E which acts upon the lever of the tap k and opens it each time the plate E
is depressed allowing the steam to pass through and issue from the perforations. A
pad B of sufficient weight is suspended over the apparatus which when the hat is in
position on the block A is lowered on to it giving the desired pressure to protect the
hat brim and at the same time pressing down the hat block A and suspended plate E
until the latter rests upon the rigid bench F. This action brings the edge of the
pad B down upon the edge of the shield G to prevent the escape of steam around it
and forms a steam chamber round the edge of the brim and at the same time opens
the tap for the admission of steam. The lifting of the pad B when the operation
of steaming is completed reverses the operations shutting off the steam and allowing
the plate E and block A to be raised by the weights W so that the block and hat can
be removed and replaced. The pad B is preferably made of textile or other flexible
material filled with sand or other material which will retain a considerable degree of
heat for a lengthened period. Behind the steaming apparatus is a plate or box M
heated with steam or otherwise upon which the pad B is placed when out of use to
heat it or maintain the heat of it to the desired degree. The pad B is raised and
lowered by a pedal N and cord or chain n passing over pulleys. One pad B may
serve two machines or a separate pad may be provided for each.
The invention may be carried out in any suitable form of machine by means
of which the pressure can be applied to the brim and the brim be protected whilst
the edge is being steamed and softened.
Instead of placing the block A on a suspended plate E it may be placed direct upon
the bench F surrounded by a shield G forming a steam chamber with a steam pipe K
as shown in Fig. 4.
The hat block A may be set upon a rigid support as in Figs. 5 and 6 and the steam
be applied from a pipe without being enclosed. In Figs. 5 and 6 the hat block rests
upon the supporting platform P which is capable of being moved to and fro on the
fraine R. The pad B is formed of a water cushion filled with hot water and
the desired pressure is applied by the screw S the frame R being raised and lowered
by the cams operated by a lever r¹ to bring the block A into contact with the pad B
the steam being applied to the edge through the perforated pipe K connected to a
flexible supply pipe k. The tap is turned off and on by hand as required to admit
or check the How of steam.
Instead of a flexible pad B which adapts itself to the curved surface of the
hat block A a shaped plate C Fig. 7 may be employed to give the desired amount of
pressure to and protect the brim when on the block A.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of the said invention
and in what manner the same is to be performed I declare that what I claim is :-
1. In the manufacture of felt hats the process of curling the brims which consists
in first finishing the brims on both sides while flat and then steaming the extreme
edge of the brim only to cause it to take the desired curl whilst the finished parts are
protected substantially as and for the purpose described.
2. In the manufacture of felt bats the process or method of curling the brims
which consists in applying pressure to and protecting the brims by means of a pad or
cover and then steaming the extreme edge of the brim substantially as and for the
purpose described.
3. A machine for curling the brims of felt hats constructed with a block upon
which the brim rests a pad or cover by which pressure is applied to the other side of
the brim and by which it is protected from the action of the steam applied to

page_text: the edge, and a steam chamber or pipe around the block to steam the edge of the bat
brim substantially as described.
4. A machine for curling the brims of felt hats comprising a loose block A for the
hat a suspended platform upon which the block rests a shield enclosing the block to
permit the escape of steam a flexible band to form a joint around the block a
perforated steam pipe to supply jets of steam to the edge of the brim and a pad to
apply pressure to and protect the edge of the brim during the operation of steaming
substantially as described.
5. The process for curling the brims of felt hats substantially as described.
6. A machine for curling the brims of felt hats substantially as described and
shown with reference to either Figs. 1 to 4 Fig. 4 or Figs. 5 and 6 of the drawings.
T
1007
PACA DITIO CUTE argy
LOCT
WM. P. THOMPSON & Co.
Manchester, Liverpool and London, Patent Agents.