IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF POINTED TRIMMING, AND IN THE PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION
Year: 1861

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Chauncy Orrin Crosby, of New Haven, Connecticut,
in the United States of America, but now residing at Bridge Street,
Blackfriars, in the City of London, Gentleman, for the Invention of
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF POINTED TRIMMING, AND IN THE
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Chauncy Orrin Crosby
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition, on
the 11th November 1861.
I, CHAUNCY ORRIN CROSBY, of New Haven, Connecticut, in the United
States of America, but now residing at Bridge Street, Blackfriars, in the
City of London, Gentleman, do hereby declare the nature of the said Inven-
tion for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF POINTED TRIMMING, AND IN THE
MACHINERY FOR MANUFACTURING POINTED TRIMMING," to be as follows:-
This Invention relates to a novel arrangement of machinery for folding
tape, braid, and similar articles, or thin narrow strips of vegetable fibre, and
securing the folds by sewing, so as to produce a fabric resembling. gimp or
plaiting.
The machine consists essentially of a delivering or introducing apparatus,
a folding apparatus, a stitching mechanism, and. a. discharging apparatus, and
in its most perfect form also contains an assistant folder or preparer. The
tape or braid to be folded is mounted upon a reel carried by bracket arms
attached to a vertical hollow shaft or tube, which is free to turn in journals
carried by a standard secured to the bed. plate of the machine. This tube
has secured upon it a ratchet wheel, and attached to its lower end a mouth-

page_text: piece, which consists of a metallic gutter with a flat spring pressing
into the bottom of the same. The mouthpiece is attached to a block, which
passes through and is pivoted to the hollow shaft. This block is slotted
to allow of the tape which passes from the reel down through the hollow
shaft or tube making its exit by the mouthpiece. The object of supporting
the mouthpiece on pivots is to allow of its being canted so as to carry the
tape it is delivering away from the axial line of the tube. This canting
motion is derived from a stationary cam against which projecting arms from
the mouthpiece block bear as the tube is rotated by the intermittent action
of a ratchet operating on the before-mentioned ratchet wheel. The roller
which carries the tape reel is mounted loosely upon the tube, and rotated
by means of a small cog wheel gearing into a ring of teeth formed on or
attached to the collar. The gearing must be so proportioned that the collar
makes turn for turn with the tube so that both the reel and the tube make
the same number of revolutions per minute. This revolving of the bobbin
or reel upon the axis of the tube is to prevent the tape from twisting as it is
folded, and the canting motion and revolving motion of the mouthpiece is to
aid in folding the tape, it being in fact an assistant folder. Below the mouth-
piece lies the folding apparatus, which, to suit one class of trimming consists
of three folding blades, which for convenience may be called 1, 2, and 3. These
blades are made of elastic sheet metal. The blade 2 is attached to a slide
moving in proper guides in the bed plate, its further end being provided with
a friction roller, which by means of a spring attached to the slide and some
stationary part of the machine is caused to press against a cam upon the
main shaft; the revolution of this shaft will therefore give the folder a recipro-
cating motion. Alongside of the slide and secured to the table is a wedge,
over which rides a lateral projection from the folder 2 for the purpose of
lifting it as it recedes from the mouthpiece. The blade 1 is attached to a
sliding stock, which is pivotted to and operated by a lever operated by a cam
on the main shaft. The mounting of this stock is so arranged that its folder
may move in any necessary direction sideways, endways, or diagonally. The
folder 3 is also mounted in substantially the same manner, and both folders
may, by a proper shape and adjustment of cams, have imparted to them any
required length of motion in any desired direction, and their motions may be
timed so as to co-operate with other motions of the machine.
The folders 1 and 3 are provided with means- for ensuring their being
lifted as they advance towards the mouthpiece. It is by the combined action
of these folders that the tape, as it is delivered from the mouthpiece, is plaited
into-pointed trimming. The trimming may have one or both of its edges pointed,

page_text: but in the latter case a double set of holders will be required. When plaited or
folded an arrangement of stitching apparatus throws a row of stitches into the
work to secure the folds in place. To bring the work under the vertical needle
of the sewing apparatus, and eventually to discharge it from the machine, an
arrangement of parts somewhat like the feeder of a sewing machine is
employed. There are two sets of gripping surfaces, the one set having a recipro-
cating motion, and the other, which consists of a spring presser and a
stationary roughened surface serving to hold the work, while the reciprocating
gripping surfaces are making their return motion. To permit of this action
these reciprocating gripping surfaces are slotted along their centres, thus
allowing the spring presser to bear upon the work and hold it down on the
stationary surface. In working with the machine, tape is to be wound upon the
reel and led down through the tube, and the mouthpiece, and may then be carried
under folder 2, between it and folder 3, under 3, and between it and 1, then under
folder 1, and so out under the needle and under the spring presser. The first
motion of the machine will then turn the mouthpiece and cant it so as to draw
the tape over the folding edge of the folder 2., Folder 1 will now back diagonally
out from under the folded tape, and will then advance again. In so doing
it will ride over the tape and fold it down on the top of folder 2, finally biting
the tape firmly between its advancing edge and a projection on folder 3. The
mouthpiece is now so canted as to draw the tape from the folding edge of No. 1
directly towards its stock. Folder 3 now retreats from under the tape and
advances again, in so doing it comes over the tape and folds it down on top
of folder 1; folder 2 now retreats, and folders 1 and 3, clasping the folded tape,
advance together in the direction of the motion of the discharging apparatus,
the moveable jaws of this apparatus move at the same time, and in the same
direction, carrying folded tape under the needle and out of the machine. The
spring presser and stationary surface over which the presser acts are slotted
to allow of the needle striking down through them and putting a row of
chain stitches therein. When the work has left the machine, I prefer to
reserve it, putting in as great a number of stitches to the inch as may be desired
for strength, and I then ravel out the seam put in by the trimming machine,
but this seam may by a proper arrangement of parts, be made close and light
enough to do away with the need of subsequent sewing, but a great number of
stitches to the fold is the best.
The machine above described may be adapted to make pointed trimming
by folding the tape symmetically to form the point, but I prefer lapping over
the tape as indicated by the above described movements of the folders.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent, filed
by the said Chauncy Orrin Crosby in the Great Seal Patent Office
on the 9th May 1862.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, CHAUNCY
ORRIN CROSBY, of New Haven, Connecticut, in the United States of America,
but now residing at Bridge Street, Blackfriars, in the City of London, Gentle-
man, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her Letters
Patent, bearing date the Eleventh day of November, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-one, in the twenty-fifth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me, the
said Chauncy Orrin Crosby, Her special license that I, the said Chauncy
Orrin Crosby, my executors, administrators, and assigns, or such others
as I, the said Chauncy Orrin Crosby, my executors, administrators, and
assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to time
and at all times thereafter during the term therein expressed, should and
lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom
of Great Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an
Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF POINTED TRIMMING,
AND IN THE MACHINERY FOR MANUFACTURING POINTED TRIMMING," upon the
condition (amongst others) that I, the said Chauncy Orrin Crosby, by
an instrument in writing under my hand and seal, should particularly de-
scribe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner
the same was to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the
Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately
after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Chauncy Orrin Crosby, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same is to
be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the
following statement, reference being had to the Drawings hereunto annexed,
and to the letters and figures marked thereon (that is to say) :-
In the Drawings, Figure First is a plan view of the whole machine; Figure
Second is a vertical section through the same from front to rear; Figure Third
is a front view; Figure Fourth is a plan view of folding blades and delivering
apparatus; Figure Fifth is a plan of part of the folding table, shewing sliding
plate; Figure Sixth is a development on a plane surface of the cam e³; Figure
Seven is an elevation of cam 1º, and lever ; Figure Eight is an edge view of
cam l, and l', shewing pin ; Figure Nine is a development of cam j³; Figure

page_text: Ten is a development of cam h*; Fig. Eleven is a face view of cam h³;
These plans and developments being full
upon them, all being in the same plane, passing
Fig. 12 is a face view of cam 3.
size and the point marked
through the shaft upon which they are all mounted.
The material to be acted upon by the machine is tape, braid, and similar
articles, or thin narrow strips of vegetable fibre, and the machine folds such
strips so as to resemble gimp or platting, and sews the folds down so as to
preserve the folding given by the machine.
The machine consists essentially of a delivering or introducing apparatus,
a folding apparatus, a stitching mechanism, and a discharging apparatus, and
in its most perfect form also contains an assistant folder or preparer.
And the nature of my Invention consists in combining these sets of
apparatus or mechanism into a complete machine; and also in various sub-
combinations thereof, which perform certain operations upon the material
being acted upon, and also in certain peculiarities of construction of parts of
apparatus substantially such as are herein-after described.
The machine herein described, which embodies my Invention, is mounted on
a table, which supports journals for the main shaft, and a bed plate c, which
supports the various carriages, guide blocks, levers, &c. The movements of
all parts of the machine are derived from the main shaft by the aid of cams,
excentrics, and cog wheels.
The tape or braid to be folded is mounted upon a reel d, attached to a tube
d', which is free to turn in journals carried by a standard a, secured to the
bed plate; this tube has secured upon it a ratchet wheel d³, and attached to
its lower end a mouthpiece, which consists of a metallic gutter d³, with a
spring d, pressing into the bottom of the same. The spring and the gutter
piece are attached to a block d³, which is pivotted at d to the tube. This
block is slotted, and tape can pass from the reel down through the tube,
thence through the slot in the block, and finally out between the gutter piece
and the spring, the latter making a slight resistance to the delivery of the
tape. The mouthpiece as a whole can be canted upon the axis of the block,
so as to carry the tape it is delivering away from the axial line of the tube;
and this canting motion is derived from a stationary cam d', the protuberances
of which act upon arms d³ attached to or making part of the slotted block d³.
In the precise machine described this tube is to receive an interrupted
revolving motion, which is imparted to it by means of a ratchet or dog e,
mounted on a lever e³, pivotted at e. The tail of this lever is forced to vibrate
by the combined agency of a came, and.a spring attached to the lever, and
to any convenient stationary part of the machine, the spring forcing the lever

page_text: against the cam. As thus far described, the tape reel would receive an
interrupted rotating motion, but as it is heavy (when loaded with tape), we
find that it is more advantageous to apply the bobbin collar f loosely upon
the tube, to attach to the collar a small cog-wheel f, and to cause this wheel
to revolve uninterruptedly by another wheel f¹ on a shaft f, which latter is by
means of proper cog gearing to receive motion from the main shaft b. The
cogs must be so proportioned that the collar makes turn for turn with the
tube, so that both the reel and the tube make the same number of revolutions
per minute. This revolving of the bobbin or reel upon the axis of the tube is
to prevent the tape from twisting as it is folded, and the canting motion and
revolving motion of the mouthpiece is to aid in folding the tape, or, in other
words, to prepare it for folding, and the mouthpiece moving substantially, as
described, is the assistant folder; while the reel, rèvolving on an axis other
than its own, so as to deliver the tape without a twist, or to take out turns
that are put in the tape by the folding apparatus, is the delivering or intro-
ducing apparatus.
Below the mouthpiece lies the folding apparatus, which in the present
machine consists of three folding blades 1, 2, and 3. These blades are
made of thin smooth sheet metal, and blade 2 is attached to a slide g, moving
in proper guides in the bed plate; its further end g² may be provided with a
friction roller, which, by means of a spring g', attached to the slide, and some
stationery part of the machine, is caused to press against a cam g³ upon the
main shaft; a revolution of the shaft will, therefore, cause the folder to
reciprocate. This folder is springy, or attached by a spring to a slide by a
spring connection, and has brazed or otherwise attached to it a wire or rod g³.
Alongside of the slide and secured to the table is a cam or wedge gº, having
its edge pointing towards the main shaft. By means of this rod and wedge
the blade 2 is lifted as it recedes backwards, and near the end of its backward
motion, and by backwards we mean away from the mouthpiece.
The blade 1 is also metallic and springy, and is attached to a stock h, to
which is pivotted a lever h'; this lever is pivotted upon a slide h³, and the end
of the lever rests against a cam h*, being pressed thereon by a spring h³. The
stock slides inways in a carriage he, the carriage being attached to the sliding
bar h; this bar has on its end a friction block, which is forced into contact
with the cam h³ by a spring hº.
Now the object of this arrangement is as follows, viz., that the folder may
move in any necessary direction, sideways, endways, or diagonally, it being
moved endwise through the agency of the lever, sideways by the slide or bar h³,
and diagonally by a motion of both at the same time; and the folder 3 is

page_text: mounted in substantially the same manner, and both folders may, by a proper
shape and adjustment of cams, have imparted to them any required length of
motion, in any desired direction, at such time as shall be necessary to co-
operate with other motions of the machine. This folder 1 has attached to its
upper surface a rod 10, which slides at times over a wedge h", the operations
of the two being to lift the folder as it advances towards the mouthpiece.
Another blade 3 is mounted on a stock j, which can slide to and fro in
a carriage ; the carriage is moved by a sliding rod, provided with a friction
block resting against a cam 7³. A spring similar to h° causes the roller to
press. against the cam. The stock. has pivotted to it a lever j', which is
centred upon a projection from the sliding rod 12, and the end of this lever
butts against a cam j, being pressed against the 'cam by a spring arranged
and acting like h³. This folder has also attached to it a rod jo, which, in con-
nection with a stationary wedge, causes the folder to lift at a certain part of
its advancing motion. By means of the cams and attachments this folder is
caused to move in directions and through distances as required in a similar
manner to folder 1.
.
The folder 1 has a projection from its upper surface at y, the folder 2 at u,
and the folder 3 at z; these projections are surfaces at right angles or nearly
so with the surfaces of the folders. These folders having motions sub-
stantially as hereafter specified, to fold tape, braid, &c., constitute the folding
apparatus.
The stitching mechanism consists in part of a needle k attached to an
arm k, which is mounted on a rock shaft, and moved by an excentric rod k³,
receiving motion from an excentric on the main shaft (see especially Fig. 2),
and in part of a rotating hook k³ (see especially Figs. 2nd and 3rd), which is
mounted on a shaft provided with a bevil wheel, and forced to revolve by
another bevil wheel keyed upon the main shaft. The needle descends through
the tape after it is folded, and its loop is seized by the rotating hook; proper
spools for thread and tensions are to be provided.
.
The apparatus especially represented is like that now well known as the
Wilcox & Gibbs' sewing machine, but any sewing mechanism, of which there
are many well-known kinds or varieties, may be substituted for that repre-
sented, so long as so arranged as to fasten together the folds as made by the
folding apparatus; we prefer, however, sewing mechanism which makes a
crochet or single thread loop stitch. The discharging apparatus has two
functions, the one in conjunction with the folding apparatus to advance the
folded tape to be sewed, the other to carry the sewed and folded tape out of
the machine. It consists essentially of two surfaces and l', which at times

page_text: gripe the folded tape between them; both of these surfaces are slotted along
their centres, so as to permit of the action of a spring m and a stationary
surface n (see Figs. 4 and 5). The surface n is fastened to the bed plate,
the surface surrounds it, and is free to slide inways on a slot in the bed
plate. The spring m enters the slot in c, and rests upon the surface n, so
that it can gripe the tape against n. The surface has projecting from it
three pins (see Fig. 5), and the surface is provided with holes into which
these pins enter. The surface is attached by a pivot to an arm 12 pivoted
at s to a standard l', which is free to oscillate. The end of the arm 12 has
secured to it a pin 15; this pin rests against a face cam 1', and the end of the
lever rests upon a cam 1°. A spring 18 causes both the pin and the end of
the arm to bear against their respective cams; the cam 16 acts to raise and
depress the upper surface, the cam 17 acts to move both surfaces in the line of
discharge (see Fig. 7).
The action of the whole apparatus is as follows:-When the two surfaces
are in contact they grasp the folded tape; when moves away from the
folding apparatus, it, by means of the pins, carries l' with it, and both grasping
the folded tape carry it past the needle and out of the machine; then 7 rises,
and the tape is held at rest by the spring compressing it against the stationary
surface n. When moves towards the folding apparatus it carries l¹ with it,
and then descends so as to grasp the tape again between itself and . and
act like pincer jaws to seize and release and carry along the article which has
been seized; m and n act to hold an article at rest while the pincer jaws are
separated and moving to take a new hold; it is necessary therefore that the
grasp of the spring should be less forcible than that of the pincer jaws.
The motions of the discharging apparatus must, by proper shape and
adjustment of cams, be of suitable length, and so timed as to work in proper
concert with the folders, and draw the tape along when the needle is out of it.
In working with the machine, tape is to be wound upon the reel, and led down
through the tube and the mouthpiece, and may then be carried under folder 2,
between it and folder 3, under 3, and between it and 1, then under folder 1,
and so out under the needle and under the spring m. The first motion of the
machine will then turn the mouthpiece, and cant it, so as to draw the tape
over the folding edge of the folder 2. Folder I will now back diagonally
out from under the folded tape in such a curve that h¹ in so doing does not
touch h", and will then advance again; in so doing its rod will ride over the
wedge, which will lift the folder so that it rides over the tape, and folds it
down on the top of folder 2, finally biting the tape firmly between its advancing
edge and the projection z on folder 3. The mouthpiece now turns again, the

page_text: While
roller ds rides on top of the left-hand forward protuberance at d', and the
mouthpiece is so canted as to draw the tape from the folding edge of No. 1
directly towards its stock; folder 3 now retreats out from under the tape and
advances again; in so doing it rises by its rod, riding over wedge j'; as it
comes over the tape it folds it down on top of folder 1. Folder 2 now retreats,
and rises by its rod riding over its wedge, and when it has done so folders 1
and 3, clasping the folded tape (such clasping being aided by the edge of 3
striking tape against z), advance together in direction of the motion of the dis-
charging apparatus; the moveable jaws of this apparatus move at the same
time and in the same direction, carrying folded tape under the needle, and
out of the machine. The tube now turns again the roller d³, and rides on top
of the protuberance on d³, and the mouthpiece cants rearwards, so as to draw
tape over the diagonal edge of 3, which is nearest the front of the machine.
Folder 2, being now high enough to ride over the tape, then advances over
the tape, folds it down upon 3, and nips it against the projection z.
this is doing the needle has descended, and, aided by the hook, taken a stitch
in the folds to hold them in place, and the upper discharging jaw has lifted
and relaxed its grasp on the tape, and moved in a direction contrary to that
of discharge, carrying the lower jaw with it, and has descended again so as to
take a fresh hold of the folded tape, while both the jaws were moveing in this
reverse direction, the folded tape being held at rest by the spring m. Folder 1
now retreats again, the mouthpiece again turns and cants, so as to draw tape
over the edge 2; folder 1 advances, the mouthpiece turns and cants, folder 3
retreats and advances, and so on, as before described, making fold after fold.
The needle may retreat out of the tape at any convenient time when the
folded tape is not in motion, and the cams must be so shaped as to give
motions at times and in the directions as described; and it will be observed
that the great principle of the folding apparatus is that each blade shall fold
over the edge and surface, and that each folder shall retreat when lowest, and
in its advancé takes the highest place. The springiness of the folders' is
important in this aspect, not only as permitting the folders to take the proper
positions, but as enabling them always to press firmly upon the tape; but
they might receive all their motions from cams.
Cams shaped substantially as shown in the Drawings will make a trimming
pointed like that shown in Fig. 3, and other shapes of cams will make other
varieties, Figs. 13 being a representation of the upper side and top edge of
the trimming, and Figs. 14, 15, 16, and 17 representing other varieties of
trimming that can be made by certain alterations not affecting the principle
of the machine, and these varieties may be added to by changing the number,

page_text: relative position, and movement of folders; certain folds may be made without
the canting motion of the mouthpiece, and by a mere revolution of the tube,
and tolerable work may be done without the projections from the surface of
the folders, but for the best work I prefer to make the machine in all respects
as described, and to take but one stitch in the folded goods for every motion
of the discharged, but more stitches may be taken if desired. My plan is to
resew the folded pointed trimming after it has left the machine with as great
a number of stitches to the inch as may be desired for strength, and then to
nip or ravel out the seam put in by the trimming machine, but this seam may,
by a proper arrangement of parts,, be made close and light enough to do away
with the need of subsequent sewing, but a great number of stitches to the
fold is the best.
The things of importance in the machine are the parts and surfaces that
act upon the tape or braid; the cams, shafts, &c., for giving motion to these
parts may be changed in shape, form, arrangement, and construction, or have
other mechanism substituted for them to do their work, so long as there is
machinery of some kind or other to move the acting parts properly.
Having now set forth the nature of my Invention of improvements in the
manufacture of pointed trimming, and in the machinery for manufacturing
pointed trimming, and explained the manner of carrying the same into effect,
I claim as my Invention,-
First, the combination of a delivering apparatus substantially such as is
described, with apparatus for folding as described substantially.
Second, I claim, in combination, delivering apparatus, an assistant folder,
and a folding apparatus, all substantially such as specified.
Third, I claim, in combination, a folding apparatus or a folding and an
assistant folding contrivance and a mechanism for stitching folds together,
the combination being substantially such as described.
Fourth, I claim, in combination, apparatus for making a fold, and appa-
ratus for stitching, and apparatus for discharging, all substantially such as
described.
Fifth, I claim, in combination, a delivering apparatus, a folding apparatus,
a stitching mechanism, and a discharging apparatus, all substantially such, as
described, and this I claim either with or without an assistant folder, sub-
stantially such as described.
Sixth, I claim in a folding apparatus the use of projections at right angles
to the folders, or their equivalents, so that a folding edge shall nip the tape,
braid, &c. between itself and such projections so as to make a sharp fold, as
described.

page_text: Seventh, I claim an assistant folder having an interrupted motion in com-
bination with a delivering apparatus having a continuous motion, as specified.
Eighth, I claim folding blades grasping folded material and moving at the
same time and in the same direction, with discharging apparatus grasping the
same materials, substantially as specified.
Ninth, I claim, in combination with each other, folding blades which are
springy or are mounted on springs, so that they may change their relative
level, and press upon the goods when folding them, substantially as specified.
Tenth, I claim the revolving tubular, canting, folding, delivering mouth-
piece, as described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Chauncy Orrin Crosby, have hereunto
set my hand and seal, the Second day of May, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and sixty-two.
CHAUNCY O. CROSBY. (L.S.)