IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ELASTIC WEBS
Year: 1885

page_text: We, WILLIAM STOKES and ROBERT HUDSON, of Stockbrook Mills, Derby, in the
county of Derby, Manufacturers, do hereby declare the nature of our invention
for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ELASTIC WEBS," to be as follows:-
This invention has for its object improvements in the manufacture of elastic
webs suitable for insertion as gores or gussets in clothing, boots and shoes, and
other articles requiring elasticity.
Elastic webs of this kind have hitherto been made with a "terry" or ribbed
face. Now our invention has for its object the production of elastic web with a
perfectly smooth diagonal cloth or satin face, instead of a rib or terry, enabling a
larger quantity, of material to be thrown on the face, thereby making it more
durable and smooth.
The face can be made in silk, schappe, mohair, cotton, wool, or similar fibres.
In manufacturing our improved clastic web we may use harness shafts worked
by cams or tappets on a revolving barrel or shaft or we can use a jacquard
machine or other suitable method of operating our shafts and shuttles as will be
understood.
In describing our method of weaving the improved web by the use of tappets or
cams on a revolving shaft or barrel to operate the harness we prefer to use six
harness shafts for the binder threads or we may use a less number such as three
when not such a close face is required.
We will say six binder-shafts are used and will for convenience enumerate them
as 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6. We will call the terry warp shafts (when used as hereinafter
described) 7, 8, 9, the rubber shaft 10, and the edge wire shafts 0, 0.
We so arrange our cams or tappets to operate the shafts in the following
manner.
When shaft 1 is at the bottom the shuttle goes over it one shute. This shaft
then rises to the centre and the shuttle goes over it twice. It then rises to the top
and stands still while the shuttle goes under it once, then it falls to the centre and

page_text: the shuttle goes over it twice and afterwards it falls to the bottom and the shuttle
goes over it once.
Shafts 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6, repeat the above operation in consecutive order.
By this action of binder-shafts and shuttle such "satin " or smooth face is
produced.
By this method of weaving two sides alike are produced, the surface of the web
being made from the shute or weft thrown up by the binders as described, but
when a terry back is desired we use terry warps worked off shafts 7, 8, 9 and
thrown on the back as usual. The rubber shaft or shafts we place as a fixture in
the centre.

page_text: WO WILLIAM STOKES and ROBERT HUDSON of Stockbrook Mills, Derby in the
county of Derby Manufacturers do hereby declare the nature of our invention
for IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ELASTIC WEBS and in what manner
the same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement:-
This invention has for its object improvements in the manufacture of elastic
webs suitable for insertion as gores or gussets in clothing, boots and shoes and
other articles requiring elasticity.
Elastic webs of this kind have hitherto been made with a "terry" or ribbed.
face.
Now our invention has for its object the production of elastic web with a
perfectly smooth diagonal cloth or satin face, instead of a rib or terry, enabling a
larger quantity of material to be thrown on the face thereby making it more
durable and smooth.
The face can be made in silk schappe, mohair, cotton, wool, or similar fibres.
In manufacturing our improved elastic web we may use harness shafts worked
by cams or tappets on a revolving barrel or shaft or we can use a jacquard
machine or other suitable method of operating our shafts and shuttles as will be
understood.
In describing our method of weaving the improved web by the use of tappets or
cams on a revolving shaft or barrel to operate the harness. We prefer to uso six
harness shafts for the binder threads or we may use a less number such as three
when not such a close face is required.
And in order to more clearly set forth the nature of our said invention and in
what manner the saine is to be performed we have caused to be annexed to this
specification the accompanying sheet of drawings, in which Fig. 1 is a vertical
section taken through a loom arranged for producing our improved web.
Fig. 2 is a weaver's draft.
The section in Fig. 1 is taken as the shuttles P P' are going past the centre of
the front slay O, and passes through the centre of the shuttles and binder
shafts A, B, C², D², E², F².
The view also shews the position of these various binder shafts and also that of
the tappets A, B, C, D E, F operating them when the tappet A is perpendicular.
The position of the levers A, B, C, is also shewn but levers D¹, E¹, F¹ in this
position are not seen as they are necessarily behind lever C¹ K L are the edge wire
shafts. G. HI the terry warp or rubber shafts J is the stuffing shaft. M is the
rubber N the warp. O the front slay. P top shuttle P¹ bottom, do. Q is the
fabric issuing from the loom. RR lines for the weights.
As shewn, tappets are used to operate the binder shaft and are set on a spindle
as in Fig. 1.
The levers A¹, etc for operating the harness or binder shafts A³, etc are fitted
with friction rollers as shewn for the tappets A etc. to ride on.

page_text: We will suppose it is desirable to make our improved elastic fabric with the
aforesaid smooth diagonal face and back of one or more of the various materials,
and without a terry back in which case we dispense with the terry warp
shafts G EI, I shewn on the drawing, and use them as rubber shafts as we may
desire.
When harness or binder shaft A is at the bottom, the shuttle P₁ goes over it one
shute. This shaft A then rises to the centre and the shuttle P goes over it twice.
The shaft A' then rises to the top and stands still while the shuttle P goes under
it once, the shaft A then falls to the centre and the shuttle P goes over it twice
and afterwards the shaft A2 falls to the bottom and the shuttle P¹ goes over it once
The movement of shuttle P thus makes the face and the corresponding shuttle P¹
the back.
Shafts B, C, D2, E2, F2 repeat the above operation in consecutive order. By this
action of binder shafts and shuttles such satin or smooth face and back is produced,
by the shuttle or weft thrown up by the binders but when a terry back is desired
we use terry warp shafts G, H, I arranged to throw the warps on the back
as usual.
The stuffing shaft is placed as a fixture in the centre as shewn.
In the drawing Fig. 1 supposing the fabric is to have a terry back, the binder
shaft A2 is shown at the top, shuttle P is going past the centre of the front
slay O.
One edge wire shaft L is then at the centre and the other K down. Harness or
binder shaft B2 is down while C², D², E², F2 are at the centre as is also terry warp
shaft I, and necessarily the fixed stuffing shaft J. The terry warp shafts G H are
down. The next movement of the loom will at once be apparent to any practical
weaver in reference to the foregoing description of the method of weaving the
web with our smooth face and back, as the terry warps are thrown in the usual
manner.
In figure 2 the diagonal character of the face is shewn by the position of the
binders lettered A² B C D E and F, G, H. and I being either the terry or rubber
shafts as we may desire to use them.
We have not shewn the application of Jacquard or other equivalent mechanism
to the tappets shewn as such machinery as is now in use can be adapted for the
purposes of our invention by any intelligent weaver.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of our said
invention and in what manner the same is to be performed we declare that what
we claim is
1st As a new article of manufacture elastic webbing made with a smooth
diagonal or satin face, or face-and-back, as distinguished from the usual clastic
webbing made with a terry or ribbed face substantially as described.
2nd The method of weaving such smooth faced (or faced-and-backed) web
substantially as described.