IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MEANS OF WARPING AND WEAVING PLAIN AND FIGURED FABRICS
Year: 1848

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, ROBERT
WILLIAM SIEVIER, of Upper Holloway, in the County of Middlesex, Gentleman,
send greeting.
WHEREAS Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Royal Letters Patent under the Great Seal of Great Britain, bearing date
at Westminster, the Nineteenth day of October, in the twelfth year of Her
reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors, give and grant unto me,
the said Robert William Sievier, Her especial license, full power, sole
privilege and authority, that I, the said Robert William Sievier, my exors,
admors, and assigns, and such others as I, the said Robert William Sievier,
my exors, admors, or assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others,
from time to time and at all times during the term of years therein mentioned,
should and lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within England,
Wales, the Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, and in all Her Majesty's Colonies
and Plantations abroad, and in the Islands of Jersey, Guernsey, Alderney,
Sark, and Man, my Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MEANS OF WARPING
AND WEAVING PLAIN AND FIGURED FABRICS;" in which said Letters Patent is
contained a proviso obliging me, the said Robert William Sievier, by an
instrument in writing under my hand and seal, particularly to describe and
ascertain the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is
to be performed, and to cause the same to be inrolled in Her Majesty's.

page_text: High Court of Chancery within six calendar months next and immediately
after the date of the said in part recited Letters Patent, as in and by the
same, reference being thereunto had, will more fully and at large appear.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the
said Robert William Sievier, do hereby declare that the nature of my said
Invention, and the manner in which the same is to be performed, is particularly
described and ascertained in and by the following description thereof, referenco
being had to the Drawings hereunto annexed, and, to the letters and figures -
marked thereon (that is to say)
This Invention relates, firstly, to an improved method of warping yarns by
weighting the bobbins in a peculiar manner, so as to regulate the pressure
according to the strength of the material to be warped, and also to preserve an
even pressure upon the bobbin during the operation of warping, whether the
bobbin be full or nearly empty, so that the threads or yarns may in all cases be
as near as possible of the same length when warped upon the beam.
B is the
D is the
In Fig. 1 of the accompanying Drawings A represents a section of the
bobbin, with the thread or yarn to form the warp wound thereon.
shaft of the bobbin. C, the thread or yarn wound on the same.
weighted or pressure lever. E, the moveable weight at the end thereof; and
F, F, adjusting nuts, whereby the weight E, when moved backwards - or
forwards, may be firmly secured at any part of the lever D, so as to admit,
of increasing or diminishing the pressure of tension on the yarn or thread
according to the strength of the latter. I is a set screw for the same purpose,
and which may be used in place of the nuts.F, F.
The action of this part of the Invention is as follows: The weight E, when:
the bobbin is full, acts with its whole power or pressure upon the surface of
the bobbin, as shewn by the line G,.and: when the bobbin is half full the line
drawn, as seen at H, shews the angle of forty-five degrees; thereby, acting;
with only one half of its weight, which is all that is necessary under the circum-
stances, there being only one half of the leverage on the bobbin while the
thread or yarn is drawn off by the action. of warping. Byl this means the
bobbin will always give off the thread or yarn in warping at -the-same
tension whether the bobbin be full or nearly empty, thereby securing the
same length and tension to all the warp threads; which will tend very much
to prevent them from breaking during the operation of weaving, and, will
also cause the cloth to be more evenly woven and give a greater: regularity,
to the surface, particularly in terry ór looped fabrics. The weight E has two
nuts F, F, to regulate the distance the weight may be placed at; or it might
have one set screw, as seen at I, to set it at any point desired..
:

page_text: The second part of my Invention consists in an improved mode of producing
or weaving narrow goods, particularly-that: description of goods which are
termed "small wares," such as ribbons, coach. lace, tapes, and other fabrics,
Several breadths of these or other narrow goods are woven all in one wide
cloth or piece, having one selvage as usual, at each edge of the wide piece so
woven ;.
the ribbons, tapes, or narrow goods, so woven in one piece aro
afterwards to be divided into the number of widths that may be required to
produce. the narrow. goods;. artificial selvages to these narrow widths being
produced by means of gutta percha, or some other suitable material applied
in the manners herein-after set forth, or in any other convenient manner, for
the purpose of preventing the edges from ravelling out. The cloth or fabric
to form any convenient number of narrow breadths or pieces is woven in one
width, with one or more shuttles, as may be necessary, and according to the
nature of, the fabric to be produced, and I place or weave in the goods or
cloth a thread or threads of gutta percha, or other suitable material, which
may be woven into the body of the fabric, or may be introduced into the
fabric by means of a needle, or other suitable instrument, after the weaving
is completed. I also sometimes apply or introduce a portion of gutta percha,
by causing it to be driven into the fibres of the cloth by means of heat,
as will be hereafter described; and by this means, when the fabric is divided;
I make what I will call an artificial selvage, which will prevent the cut edges
of the cloth from ravelling out, and will also render the edges susceptible of
being sewn together or attached to other fabrics without turning down the
edge.
I will now, for the sake of example, proceed to describe some of the principal
parts of a loom for the weaving several widths of coach lace in one piece
according to my present improvements. The terry or loop of the coach lace
is made without the aid of a wire and tag, as described in my Patent for
England, sealed the Fifth September, One thousand eight hundred and
forty-four.
.
Fig. 2 is a side view of the loom, and Fig. 3 a front elevation of the same.
Similar letters of reference denote corresponding parts in both Figures.
A, A, A, represents the loom frame. B, the jacquard. C, the rod which
works the lever D. E, the lay sword. F, the batten or lay. G, the worm
wheel. H, the worm which takes off the work as it is woven. I is the
tappet shaft; J, the crank shaft; and K, the pinion mounted upon the same,
and taking into the toothed wheel L, mounted on the tappet shaft I. Upon
this shaft is mounted the tappets M and N. O is the ground warp beam.
P, P, P, the frame in which the bobbins Q, with the material to make the

page_text: face of the work, are mounted. It is a roller which takes up the work as
produced. S is the breast beam or roll. T, T, T, T, T, T represent the
different pieces of work all woven in one cloth. The threads or strands of
gutta percha or other material to form the artificial salvages are placed on
separate bobbins, behind the ground warp beam, and are arranged at suitable
distances apart, according to the intended widths of the narrow goods to be
produced. The gutta percha thread may, however, be placed on the ground
warp beam, if preferred; but I find it more convenient to arrange them on
separate bobbins.
Fig. 4 represents the work on a larger scale in order to show it more
clearly. T, T, T, T, T, T, are the pieces of coach lace or other work woven
together in one cloth. a, a, a, a, represent the plain part of the cloth woven
between the widths of the lace, and in which plain part the artificial selvage
is intended to be made. The gutta percha warps or threads are introduced
and woven into the plain part of the cloth or fabric, having been conducted
with the other ground warp from bobbins at the back of the loom in the
usual way. One, two, or any convenient number of gutta percha threads
may be introduced, as may be considered advisable.
Fig. 5 represents a series of hollow rollers, which are heated by steam or
in any other convenient manner, for the purpose of softening the gutta percha
threads when woven into the cloth; these narrow hollow rollers are shewn at
U, U, fitted upon hollow shafts V, V, which are supported in bearings in the
framework W, W, and are driven by pullies X. The shafts being hollow,
steam is admitted at Y, and travels in the course of the arrows until it passes
out at Z. Two or more holes are drilled in the shafts at c, c, c, to allow the
steam to pass into the hollow rollers U, U, for the purpose of heating them.
The shafts are coupled by socket joints, or in any other convenient manner, to
the steam pipe, as seen at d, d, d, so as to allow them to rotate. When
these rollers are sufficiently heated the cloth or fabric in the wide piece
is slowly passed between them in such a manner as to cause the rollers to
press upon the plain part of the fabric where the gutta percha is interwoven.
The gutta percha by this means is softened, and becomes semi-fluid, and by
the pressure of the rollers is driven into the texture and fibre of the cloth
or fabric, which may then be separated into narrow breadths by being divided
along the line of gutta percha by scissors or any convenient méans, and the
edges so separated will, by being consolidated by the gutta percha or other
suitable cementing material, form an artificial selvage, which will not ravel out,
and may be sewn to any other cloth or fabric, if desired.
. Although in the above description I have spoken of gutta percha as the

page_text: material which I propose to employ to make the artificial selvage, yet I do
not intend to confine myself exclusively thereto, as other materials or com-
positions may be employed to effect the same object. I would also observe,
that in place of weaving a thread or threads of gutta percha or other suitable
material into the body of the cloth or fabric, I sometimes lay on or place a
thread, strand, or strip of this or some other suitable material in connection
with the woven fabric, and force the gutta percha, or material used in place
thereof, into the fabric, by passing a heated roller or surface over the same,
and by thus partially dissolving or melting the said material cause it to enter
into the body of the. cloth or fabric, and cement the fibres thereof together.
Gutta percha, caoutchouc; or other suitable material may also be applied to
the fabric or cloth in a state of solution in any convenient manner for the
purpose of cementing the fibres of the cloth, and an artificial selvage thereby
produced when the cloth is separated into narrow widths.
Having now described my Invention, and the best means with which I
am at present acquainted for carrying the same into operation, I would
observe, in conclusion, that I lay no claim to the arrangement or construction
of the loom herein shewn and described, as it forms no part of my present
Invention, nor do I intend to confine myself to the above-described means of
rendering the gutta percha, or other suitable material or composition, semi-fluid
for the purpose of causing it to incorporate itself intimately with the fibres of
the cloth, as this object may, doubtless, be effected in a variety of. ways; nor
do I intend to confine myself to the use of gutta percha alone for the purpose
of making the artificial selvages, as many other cementing materials or
compositions may doubtless be employed for a similar purpose. I, however,
prefer gutta percha, or compositions containing the same, as they will be found
most convenient; as this material can be acted upon by heat, and will not be
effected by moisture, it will, therefore, in my opinion, be found most suitable
for the intended purpose.
That which I consider to be new and useful in the above-described improve-
ments, and therefore wish to claim as the Invention secured to me by the
herein-before in part recited Letters Patent, is,-
First, the mode of weighting the bobbins for the warping frame, as described
and shewn in Fig. 1.
Second, weaving two or more pieces of narrow goods or fabric in one wide
picce of cloth, and interweaving therewith, at stated and suitable distances,
strands, yarns, or strips of gutta percha or other similar or suitable material,
which, when the fabric is completed, may be more thoroughly incorporated
with the adjacent fibres by means of heat applied in any convenient manner,

page_text: so that when the wide picce of cloth or fabric is cut up. or. divided; into
separate widths; each width of narrow: goods, may have a suitable selvage
at each side thereof, ithe fibres having been cemented together by the gutta
perchia or other material employed in its place......
I claim also, making artificial selvages by means of gutta percha,
caoutchouc, or other suitable material, dissolved in some solvent. and applied
to the surface of the fabric, and also causing a strip; thread, or. strand of
gutta percha or other material; when laid on or in contact with a piece of
cloth or fabric, to be incorporated therewith by. means of heat, and thereby
form an artificial selvage when the fabric is cut into strips.
•
In witness whereof, I, the said Robert William Sievier, have hereunto
hand and seal, this Nineteenth day of April, in the year of our
set
my
Lord One thousand eight hundred and forty-nine.