IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF Hoop SKIRTS
Year: 1868

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Edward Thomas Hughes, of the Firm of
Hughes and Son, Patent Agents, 123, Chancery Lane, London,
for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF Hoop
SKIRTS." A communication from abroad by Thomas Burlock de
Forest, of Birmingham, in the County of New Haven, and State of
Connecticut, United States of America.
Sealed the 21st August 1868, and dated the 25th February 1868.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Edward Thomas
Hughes at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his
Petition, on the 25th February 1868.
I, EDWARD THOMAS HUGHES, of the Firm of Hughes and Son,
Patent Agents, 123, Chancery Lane, London, do hereby declare the
nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF
Hoop SKIRTS," a communication to me from abroad by Thomas Burlock
de Forest, of Birmingham, in the County of New Haven, and State
of Connecticut, United States of America, to be as follows:-
This Invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of skirts
composed of a series of springs attached to vertical tapes, and well

page_text: known as hoop skirts. The object being to produce a lighter and
cheaper skirt than has before been done. And the Invention consists,―
First. In enclosing one or more flat elastic wires within a covering,
the said covering being of greater width than the spring, and sized and
pressed so that while it confines the spring to its proper position within
the covering, it gives to the spring the appearance of being made from
a much broader wire than it really is.
And second. In securing the springs to the vertical tape by means of
a metallic fastening passing through both the vertical tape and the
material covering the spring.
In order that this Invention may be more clearly understood I will
fully describe the same as illustrated in the accompanying Sheet of
Drawings, in which Fig. 1 is a front view of one of the vertical tapes
with two springs attached; Fig. 2 is a section of one of the springs
enlarged; Fig. 3 a like section of a different construction, and Figs. 4
and 5 shew the manner of ornamenting the wire.
In Fig. 2 I represent the spring as two flat wires enclosed within the
same covering, the wires being denoted in black. Various devices may
be employed in covering the two wires, one, and I think practically the
best, is to take a narrow strip of fabric sufficient in width to surround
the two wires, and form the space between the two, then the two wires
with the fabric are drawn through an apparatus prepared for the pur-
pose, the fabric being sized with any adhesive material, and the wires
sustained equidistant from each other, the apparatus folding the fabric
over the wires, and pressing it down into the space between, the sizing
being sufficient, or other sizing being added, so that when thoroughly
dried the wires will be sustained at their given distances from each
other, one wire at each edge of the folded fabric. The wires may be
very light, and the fabric equally light, and when completed the article
produced has the appearance of a broad spring.
Instead of the two springs, as seen in Fig. 2, a single spring may be
inserted as in Fig. 3, and the fabric guided and folded so as to leave
a space A of fabric upon the spring, as denoted in said Fig. 3. This
folded edge being sized and pressed secures the wire in its position in
like manner as first described, and gives the like appearance of a broad
spring, the sizing in all cases being sufficient to sustain that portion of
the fabric at the edge of the wire, or between the wires. Or if preferred,

page_text: and to give more material at the edge, a single spring may be inserted at
one edge, and a cord at the other edge.
To construct a skirt from springs thus formed pass the springs B
through the pocket in the vertical tape C in the usual manner, then insert
an eyelet or other suitable metallic fastening through the vertical tape,
and through the fabric of the covering of the spring, as denoted in Fig. 1,
and this may be done on the former, and the same means which secure
the springs in the vertical tape may also lock the two ends of the spring
within the pocket of the tape. A skirt constructed in this manner has
every appearance of a strong spring, but is much lighter than the
ordinary skirts as the wire employed for the spring may be much lighter
than that used in the ordinary manner, and the manner of attaching the
parts together is of the strongest possible character. Other wires may
be added to increase the width, but forming a space in like manner
between each two. The same result may be accomplished by braiding
the covering around the two wires of sufficient width to form a space in
like manner as described for the fabric, or a single wire may be inserted
in the braided covering in like manner as first described. This con-
struction affords a facility for a tasteful ornamentation as in Fig. 4, the
space between the two wires or the edge on the one wire may be colored
any desirable tint, and may be ornamented by figures as seen in Fig. 5,
the said Figures being printed or cut through the fabric. A single wire
covered in the common manner may be ornamented, and to do this
I pass the covered wire between the proper printing or embossing
so as to stamp the figure upon the covering, or raise the figure by
the embossing dies.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Edward Thomas Hughes in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 25th August 1868.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, EDWARD
THOMAS HUGHES, of the Firm of Hughes and Son, Patent Agents,
123, Chancery Lane, London, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Twenty-fifth day of February, in the year
of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-eight, in the thirty-

page_text: first year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors,
give and grant unto me, the said Edward Thomas Hughes, Her special
licence that I, the said Edward Thomas Hughes, my executors, adminis-
trators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Edward Thomas Hughes,
my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time agree
with, and no others, from time to time and at all times thereafter
during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might make,
usc, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great Britain
and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Invention for
"IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF HOOP SKIRTS," a communication
to me from abroad by Thomas Burlock de Forest, of Birmingham,
in the County of New Haven, and State of Connecticut, United States of
America, upon the condition (amongst others) that I, the said Edward
Thomas Hughes, my executors or administrators, by an instrument
in writing under my, or their, or one of their hands and seals, should
particularly describe and ascertain the nature of the said Invention,
and in what manner the same was to be performed, and cause the
same to be filed in the Great Seal Patent Office within six calendar
months next and immediately after the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Edward Thomas Hughes, do hereby
declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same
is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained in and
by the following statement (that is to say)
This Invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of skirts
composed of a series of springs attached. to vertical tapes and well known
as hoop skirts, the object being to produce a lighter and cheaper skirt
than has before been done. And the Invention consists,―
First. In enclosing one or more flat elastic wires within a covering,
the said covering being of greater width than the spring, and sized
and pressed, so that while it confines the spring to its proper position
within the covering, it gives to the spring the appearance of being
made from a much broader wire than it really is.
And, second. In seouring the springs to the vertical tape by means
of a metallic fastening passing through both the vertical tape and the
material covering the spring.
In order that this Invention may be more clearly understood, I will
fully describe the same as illustrated in the accompanying Sheet of

page_text: Drawings, in which Fig. 1 is a front view of one of the vertical tapes
with two springs attached; Fig. 2 is a section of one of the springs
enlarged; Fig. 3 a like section of a different construction, and Figs. 4.
and 5 shew the manner of ornamenting the wire.
In Fig. 2 I represent the spring as two flat wires enclosed within
the same covering, the wires being denoted in black. Various devices
may be employed in covering the two wires; one, and I think practically
the best, is to take a narrow strip of fabric sufficient in width to surround
the two wires and form the space between the two, then the two wires
with the fabric are drawn through an apparatus prepared for the
purpose, the fabric being sized with any adhesive material and the
wires sustained equidistant from each other, the apparatus folding the
fabric over the wires and pressing it down into the space between,
the sizing being sufficient, or other sizing being added, so that when
thoroughly dried the wires will be sustained at their given distances
from each other, one wire at each edge of the folded fabric. The wires
may be very light and the fabric equally light, and when completed
the article produced has the appearance of a broad spring.
Instead of the two springs, as seen in Fig. 2, a single spring may
be inserted as in Fig. 3, and the fabric guided and folded so as to leave
a space A of fabric upon the spring as denoted in said Fig. 3. This
folded edge being sized and pressed secures the wire in its position in
like manner as first described, and gives the like appearance of a
broad spring, the spring in all cases being sufficient to sustain that
portion of the fabric at the edge of the wire or between the wires.
Or if preferred, and to give more material at the edge, a single spring
may be inserted at one edge and a cord at the other edge.
To construct a skirt from springs thus formed, pass the springs B
through the pocket in the vertical tape C in the usual manner, then
insert an eyelet or other suitable metallic fastening through the vertical
tape and through the fabric of the covering of the spring, as denoted
in Fig. 1, and this may be done on the former, and the same means
which secures the springs in the vertical tape may also lock the two
ends of the spring within the pocket of the tape. A skirt constructed
in this manner has every appearance of a strong spring, but is much
lighter than the ordinary skirts, as the wire employed for the spring
may be much lighter than those used in the ordinary manner, and the

page_text: manner of attaching the parts together is of the strongest possible
character. Other wires may be added to increase the width, but
forming a space in like manner between each two.
•
I do not wish to be understood as broadly claiming the introduction
of two or more springs into a fabric, as such is not new%; but in cases
where it has been done the fabric has been first formed into pockets
for the reception of the springs, and the springs themselves covered
separately and independent of the said pockets. This arrangement is
seen in several well-known Patents for the whole or lower portions of
a skirt. It will be observed that I do not in any way form a pocket
in the fabric, the covering being simply a folded fabric, the folds being
secured by strong sizing and pressed hard together.
The same result may be accomplished by braiding the covering around
the two wires of different width to form a space in like manner as
described for the fabric, or a single wire may be inserted in the braided
covering in like manner as first described. This construction affords
a facility for a tasteful ornamentation, as in Fig. 4, the space between
the two wires or the edge on the one wire may be colored any
desirable tint, and may be ornamented by figures, as seen in Fig. 5,
the said figuring being printed or cut through the fabric. A single
wire covered in the common manner may be ornamented, and to do
this I pass the covered wire between the proper printing or embossing
rolls, so as to stamp the figure upon the covering or raise the figure by
the embossing dies.
Having thus fully described the Invention, what I claim as new and
useful and desire to secure by Letters Patent is,―
First. Springs for hoop skirts, formed by enclosing one or more
wires within a fabricated covering, and so as to form the edge A of
fabrio or a space of fabric between the wires, and the said covering sized
so as to sustain. itself, substantially as herein described.
Second. A hoop skirt, in which the springs are secured to the
vertical tapes by a metallic fastening passing through the vertical
tape, and the material covering the wire, substantially as herein set
forth.
Third. Ornamenting the hoops by tinting the fabric, as described

page_text: Fourth. Ornamenting the hoops by printing or perforating, as seen
in Fig. 5.
Fifth. Ornamenting springs by embossing, as described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Edward Thomas Hughes, have
hereunto set my hand and seal, this Twenty-fourth day of
August, in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred
and sixty-eight.