AN IMPROVED UNIVERSAL SEWING AND BRAIDING MACHINE"
Year: 1877

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Alfied Petiemant and Adolphe Victor Deshayes, both of
Manchester, in the County of Lancaster, for the Invention of "AN IMPROVED
UNIVERSAL SEWING AND BRAIDING MACHINE"
HOTE
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Alfred Petremant and
Adolphe Victor Deshayes at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents on
the 2nd February 1877
ALFRED PETREMANT and ADOLPHE VICTOR DESHAYES, both of Manchester, in
the County of Lancaster AN IMPROVED UNIVERSAL SEWING AND BRAIDING
MACHINE"
This Invention consists chiefly in the combination in one machine of a universal
feeding mechanism similar to that of the well known embroideung machine called
the "Bonnaz," with an eye-pointed needle working in conjunction with either a
revolving oi ieciprocating hook, or a shuttle, or other known contrivance foi form-
ing a chain or other stitch, one of the chief features of the Invention being that at
the same time that the eye-pointed needle follows all the motions of the "feed
dog" as in the "Bonnaz" embroiderer, the needle plate, together with the re-
volving on reciprocating hook, or the shuttle and shuttle carrier, and the apparatus
for actuating the same constantly follow the same axial movements, and hence it
becomes possible to combine the universal feed with the chain, lock, or other
stitch produced with an eye-pointed needle By means of this arrangement employ-
ing the eye-pointed needle instead of the crochet guide (as in the Bonnaz) the
"universal feed" may be used for sewing material to which the "Bonnaz" machine
could not be so advantageously applied on account of the hability of the crochet
needle to catch and tear the material, and especially for braiding, as by this machine
the braid could be laid on to any required pattern, and the surface of the work and
braid being upwards and within view of the operator, the pattern could be followed
so much more readily, and any fault would be immediately detected, the plain
stitching being on the top of the biaid, and the chain stitch (if such be employed)
being beneath or at the back of the fabric In this case the "nipple" is dispensed
with, and the braid guide does not drag on the work, but is raised up during the
feeding action of the "dog" by a pin on the needle bar, and as the latter descends the
•

page_text: braid guide falls also, and presses on to the braid before the point of the needle
reaches it
As before stated various forms of "universal feed" and various kinds of sewing
anangements working with an eye-pointed needle may be employed without
departing from the distinctive features of our Invention above described, but we
prefer to make the machine of the type described in the Specification of Letters
Patent No 3073, dated 18th of September, 1873, granted to one of us, the present
petitioners (Adolphe Victor Deshayes) the "universal feed" being worked by mutio
wheels, and the bobbin of sewing thread being supported in a bobbin carrier fixed
above the needle bar (although not attached to it) and having the same axial motion
given to it by means of spur geaning, the thread passing down a tube inside the
hollow needle bar
When braiding, the bobbin of braid is also carried in the same manner, and the
biaid guide is cured by a small bracket which follows the axial motion of the
needle bai, but is also capable of 11sing and falling in vertical slots in the bracket, a
small pin is fixed to the braid guide, and a similar pin or screw head fixed in the
needle bai, as the latter 11ses, lifts up the brand guide off the work whilst the action
of the "feed-dog" takes place, and allows it to fall again on to the work before the
point of the needle i caches it
an eye
For making the chain stitch with the eye-pointed needle by this machine we
prefer to use a curved hook somewhat similar to the cucular needle used in what is
known as the "Giover-Baker " 01 "Lancashire" sewing machine, but made without
To this curved hook an alternate circular motion is given so as to cause it
to enter between the eye-pointed needle and the thead, and to make a chain stitch
beneath the fabric The axis of this curved hook is at 1ight angles with that of
the eye-pointed needle, and caries a spui pinion in gear with a toothed quadrant,
to which an alternate cucular motion is given by means of a crank pin and link,
the other end of the link being attached to a rod which passes through the centie
of the mitre wheel, which carries the whole arrangement and gives the requisite
movement thereto
•
A bracket attached to this mitre wheel also carries the small circular cential portion
of the work plate through which the needle hole is inado, and which also icvolves
with the rest
The central iod above named is caused to rise and fall so as to give the alternate
cliculai motion to the quadrant by means of a lever, one end of which is forked, and
embraces a cucular neck formed at the bottom of the 1od, and the other is con-
nected by a link to a clip embracing an excentric on the upper or diving shaft of
the machine
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed by
the said Alfied Petiemant and Adolphe Victor Deshayes in the Great Seal 4
Patent Office on the 2nd August 1877
ALFRED PETRIMANT and ADOLPHE VICTOR DESHAYES, both of Manchester,
the County of Lancaster "AN IMPROVED UNIVERSAL SEWING AND BRAIDING
MACHINE"
This Invention consists chiefly in the combination in one machine of a universal
feeding mechanism similar to that of the well known embroidering machine called'
the "Bonnaz," with an eye-pointed needle working in conjunction with either a
revolving or reciprocating hook or a shuttle, or other known contrivance for forming
a chain or other stitch, one of the chef features of the Invention being that at
the same time that the eye-pointed needle follows all motions of the "feed dog," as i
in the "Bonnaz" embroideier, the needle plate, together with the revolving or.
reciprocating hook, or the shuttle and shuttle care, and the apparatus for
nctuating the same, constantly follow the same axial movements, and hence it
becomes possible to combine the "universal feed" with the chain, lock, or other

page_text: stitch produced with an eye-pointed needle By means of this arrangement,
employing the eye-pointed needle instead of the crochet needle (as in the Bonnaz),
the "universal feed" may be used for sewing materials to which the "Bonnaz"
machine could not be so advantageously applied on account of the liability of the
crochet needle to catch and tear the material, and especially for braiding, as by
this machine the braid could be laid on to any required pattern, and the surface of
the work and braid being upwards, and within view of the operator, the pattern could
be followed so much more readily, and any fault would be immediately detected,
the plain stitching being on the top of the braid, and the chain stitch (if such be
employed) being beneath or at the back of the fabric In this case the "nipple" is
dispensed with, and the braid guide does not drag on the work, but is raised up
during the feeding action of the dog by a pin on the needle bar, and as the latter
descends the braid guide falls also, and presses on to the braid before the point of
the needle reaches it
As before stated, various forms of "universal feed," and various kinds of sewing
arrangements working with an eye-pointed needle, may be employed without
departing from the distinctive features of our Invention above described, but wo
prefer to make the machine of the type described in the Specification of Letters
Patent No 3073, dated September 18, 1873, granted to one of us, the present
Patentees (Adolphe Victor Deshayes), the universal feed being worked by mitre
wheels, and the bobbin of sewing thread being supported in a bobbin carrier fixed
above the needle bar (although not attached to it), and having the same axial motion
given to it by means of spur gearing
A
When braiding, the bobbin of braid is also carried in the same manner, and the braid
guide is carried by a small bracket, which follows the axial motion of the needle
bai, but is also capable of using and falling in vertical slots in the bracket
small pin is fixed to the braid guide, and a sunilar pin or sciew head fixed in tho
needle bar, as the latter ises, lifts up the braid guide of the work whilst the action
of the "feed dog" takes place, and allows it to fall again on to the work before the
point of the needle reaches it
For making the chain stitch with the eye-pointed needle by this machine, we
prefer to use a curved hook somewhat similar to the cncular needle used in what is
known as the "Giover-Baker' or "Lancashire" sewing machine, but made without
an eye
To this curved hook an alternate circular motion is given, so as to cause
it to enter between the eye-pointed needle and the thread, and to make a chain stitch
beneath the fabic The axis of this curved needle is at right angles with that of
the eye-pointed needle, and carrys a spur pinion in gear with a toothed quadrant,
to which an alternate cucular motion is given by means of a crank pin and link,
the other end of the link being attached to a 1od which passes through the centre of
the mitie wheel, which carries the whole aangement, and a bracket attached to
this mitre wheel also carries the small cucular central portion of the work plate,
through which the needle hole is made, and which also revolves with the rest, gives
the requisite axial movement thereto.
The central rod above named is caused to rise and fall, so as to give the alternate
circular motion to the quandrant by means of a lever, one end of which is forked
and embraces a cucular neck formed at the bottom of the rod, and the other is con-
nected by a link to a clip embracing an eccentric on the upper or driving shaft of
the machine
Such being the nature and object of our said Invention, we will now proceed to
describe in detail the manner in which the same is to be or may be performed or
carried into practical effect, and in order that the same may be clearly under-
stood we have annexed hereunto a Sheet of Drawings illustrative thereof, and have
marked the same with figures and letters of reference corresponding with those
in the following explanation thereof
In the annexed Diawing Fig 1 is a sectional side elevation, Fig 2 is a fiont
elevation, Fig 3 shows a plan of the movements beneath the plate
In these different Figures the same letters represent the same parts.

page_text: The fiame 1s.
The frame is fixed
The build of the machine is that of an ordinary sewing machine
composed of a stand, a swan neck or bracket, and an open head
on to a plate which is ordinarily placed on a portable table of wood with iron legs
The movement is obtained by a pedal on by a stiap or other mechanical means to
turn the pulley
The horizontal axis which by means of cams gives the too-and-fro motion to the
needle carrier and the other parts, such as the embroiderer, the presser foot, and
several other movements which aie employed in the machine but which however
are known and employed in other machines
These are,-
Firstly Piesser foot, which draws on the fabuc, and its lever which works it by
means of the middle cam (in the head)
Secondly The back cam which imparts its motion to the lever in the head
and which transmits it to a sliding folk which bears a cone working on a small
lever This is fixed to the axis of central tube of the plate, and the latter works
in an excentie collar which gives the motion necessary for the length of stitch
required to be sewn
Thirdly The front cam with the function wheel which moves the needle carrier
up and down and the gearing in the open part of the head
Fourthly The axis with the bevil wheels at each end communicating the revolving
motion in every direction to the tube or central axis which is in the front plate
of the head These are the motions which are in the head which we do not
claim
With regard to the movements underneath the plate there is the lever which
throws the machine in and out of gear and is worked by the foot by means of a
pedal Also the handle alieady employed in embroidering machines, -but never
previously in sewing machines All the other parts are new, and in combination
with those aheady known make up a new machine
A 19 the bevil wheel which supports the sewing apparatus and gears with a similar
wheel B which is fixed to the lower shaft C, the shaft C has at its other end a
small pinion D gearing with the pinion E at the end of the vertical shaft F' which
works the upper shaft in the head G is the beaning fixed on the wheel A by two
screws, and holds the toothed quadiant H which is fixed by a bolt tightened by a
nut behind, which works the hook I by the pinion J fixed thereon These two
last are moved by a connecting rod K fastened at one end on to the toothed
quadrant 1, and at the other (by a screw) to a small cap L On one side of this
cap is a pin M moving in a slot cut in the bearing N which holds the needle plate O
working in a round steel plate-P which is fitted into the table Q is a tube of steel,
pierced through, which carries the cap L and which has at its extremity a throat by
which it receives movement from the lever R R is fixed on the shaft S which has
at its extremity another level T fixed to the connecting rod U, which latter receives
its alternating motion from the diving axle V. X is the bearing of the wheel A.
Y are the bearings of the shaft S
The following are the details of the movements in the head of the machine and
of its supports for the braid and for the sewing thead
a, a, is the support fixed on to the head b, b, to which is fitted (by two screws)
and has two supports c, c, at its end Into these are adjusted the two toothed
wheels d, dl, set in motion by the two others e, e, which communicate with the bevil
wheel fixed on to the driving shaft or tube ff This wheel gears with the bevil
pinion g, g, at the end of the horizontal shaft in the open part of the head, and this
shaft corresponds to the shaft G beneath the plate which canies the pinion B
geaning with A, the wheel which supports the sewing apparatus These wheels
receive then motion in every direction from the handle, by which means the braid
and the sewing thread follow all the outlines which are described by the handle and
neither of them can be twisted
At the lower end of the driving shaft or tube f, f, is fitted a ring 2, 2, which
adjusts the said diving shaft on to the head plate h, h, and at the same time forms
a part of the embroideier 1, 1, because 1, 1, is attached to the 11ng 2, 2, which follows

page_text: the motions of the driving shaft f, f, and at the same time is firmly screwed thereon.
Now the ring i, i, carries two small steel columns 3, j, in which a small piece of
pierced steel, h, k, works, on to which the braider 1, 1, is attached by a small conical
screw
There are two small springs which piess constantly against the embroiderer so
that it holds the fabric when the needle is going to open its loop and is at a given
moment lifted from the fabric by the needle caner itself, which bears a small axis M
and lifts up another small axis n which is fixed on the braider l, l, so as to let the
fabric free for the presser foot to carry it onwards
Into the needle cairici o, o, (which is pierced through for the passage of the braid
and the thi cad) is soldered a small tube in order to keep the thread clean and pre-
vent its becoming entangled with the biaid At one of its extremities is the needle
and at the other a ring p, p, which serves for adjustment with the angle piece which
caries an excentic inside and a fiction roller working on one of the cams gives it
the up-and-down motion This ng acts also as a thread guide and has a small
tension q, q, through which the thread passes before going into the centre tube,
which is soldered on the needle carrier, and comes out at about one centimeter from
the end of the said needle carrier, where there is a groove to let the thread pass
where it is threaded into the needle
The bobbin caner r, r, is fastened by two screws on to the toothed wheel at the
centie d, d, and follows all the movements made thereby 8, 8, 1s the tension for
the thread serving to shorten or lengthen the chain stitch Besides this there are
two different ways of embroidering, firstly, by making the braid come from above,
the plain stitching is made on the biaid, whilst if the biaid comes from beneath
the plate a chain stitch is obtained on the braid and a lock stitch on the stuff
We can make the braid come from beneath the plate by three different allange-
inents, as seen on the Drawing
First We fix a support for a bobbin carrier on the bearing X of the bevil wheel A,
as shewn by the dotted lines 1, 1, at Fig 1
Second We fix a bobbin carrier on the tube q which is adjusted on the centre of
the bevil wheel A, as shewn by the dotted lines 2, 2, Fig 2
Third. We fix a bobbin carrier bencath, as shown by the dotted lines 3, 3,
Fig 2
We claim as our Invention the combination in one machine of a universal feeding
mechanism (similu to that of the "Bonnaz" machine) with an eye pointed needle
working in conjunction either with a revolving or a reciprocating hook or a shuttle,
or other known contuvance for forming a chain or other stitch so aanged that at
the same time the eye pointed needle follows all the motions of the feed dog or
presser foot (as in the Bonnaz embroiderer), the needle plate together with the
revolving or reciprocating hook or the shuttle and shuttle carrier and apparatus for
actuating the same constantly follow the same axial movements, all substantially
as herein-before particularly described and illustrated by the Drawings annexed.
In witness whereof, I, the said Alfred Peti emant (on behalf of myself and
the said Adolphe Victor Deshayes), have hereunto set my hand and seal,
this Thirty-first day of July, in the year of our Lord One thousand eight
hundred and seventy-seven.
Witnessed by
JOHN HUGHES,
Clerk to George Davies, CE.,
Patent Office,
4, St Ann's Sq.,
Manchester,
ALFRED PETREMANT. (L.S.)