IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY FOR SEWING, STITCHING, AND EMBROIDERING
Year: 1864

page_text: COMPLETE SPECIFICATION filed by the said William Newton Wilson.at
the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition and
Declaration, on the 12th April 1864, pursuant to the 9th Section of the
Patent Law Amendment Act; 1852.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, WILLIAM
NEWTON WILSON, of No. 144, High Holborn, in the County of Middlesex,
send greeting.
WHEREAS I am in possession of an Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN
MACHINERY FOR SEWING, STITCHING, AND EMBROIDERING," and have petitioned
Her Majesty to grant unto me, my executors, administrators, and assigns;
Her Royal Letters Patent for the same, and have made solemn declaration
that it is a communication to me from abroad by Charles Goodwin, of No. 6,
Faubourg Mont Martre, Paris, France.
NOW KNOW. YE, that I, the said William Newton Wilson, do, hereby
declare that the following Complete Specification under my hand and seal fully
describes and ascertains the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner
the same is to be performed, in and by the following statement and accom-
panying Drawings, that is to say :-
My Invention relates to an improved arrangement and combination of
machinery for sewing, stitching, and embroidering either on leather or any
textile fabric, and forms what is termed the loop embroidery stitch, by the
combined action of a hook needle and tubular guide for the hook to pass
through,, which holds the loop to its position on the material, while the ordinary

page_text: pressure foot holds it down. Also a twist movement given to the loop by a
revolving collar and pinion, the thread passing through a hole in the said
collar, which hole is eccentric to its axis.
The thread is passed up through the hole in the pinion and collar when the
hook needle pierces the cloth, by passing through a hole in a pressure collar,
which collar presses on the material between the claws of the ordinary pressure
foot. By the revolution of the pinion the thread is lapped over the hook
needle, when it ascends, and brings up a loop to the surface of the material.
The four-motion feed advances the cloth the required distance for the length
of a stitch, when the pressure collar in connection with the hook needle lays
down a loop on to the surface of the cloth, when the needle again descends
and pierces the material (within the before-mentioned loop), and by the action
before described of the revolving pinion the thread is again lapped around
the hook needle. It again ascends through the loop and pressure collar, when
the material is again advanced by the feed motion, and the loop is laid down
and held by the pressure collar until another loop is pulled up through the
previous loop and tubular collar by the hook needle; and so on to any number
in succession, thus forming a perfect loop embroidered stitch on the surface of
the material.
Having thus given a general idea of the formation of these embroidered
stitches, I will proceed to describe the various parts of the machine and their
action in combination with each other by reference to the accompanying
Drawings.
A, A, the bed of the machine, on to which is attached a curved head B, B,
on the end of which are the slides for the hook needle C, pressure collar D,
and pressure foot E to slide in. The needle is actuated by the crank plate
pulley F, connecting rod G and lever H, working on a fulcrum pin I. The
pressure collar is actuated by means of a cam J on the shaft K, which actuates
another curved lever L, on to which the pressure collar slide is attached.
M, the pressure collar, which is lifted off the material by the small lever N,
and is kept on to the cloth when down by the spiral spring O. On the front
end of the shaft K there is a small cam P, actuating the four-motion bottom
feed Q. R is a bevil wheel, which works into and revolves the bevil pinion S
attached to the revolving collar T, through which there is a small hole eccentric
to its axis. The silk or thread is taken from the reel U and passed up through
the hole in the pinion S, when the machine is ready to work. The operation
is as follows: When the hook needle C descends through the cloth, the
pressure collar D is pressed on to the material, the revolving pinion S throws
the thread around the hook needle C, which in its ascent pulls up a loop

page_text: through the cloth, and through the pressure collar D, which prevents the hook
needle from tearing up the material; the four-motion feed then advances the
material the length of a stitch, the loop is laid on the surface, and is held
down by the pressure collar, when the hook needle again pierces the cloth
through and within the previously made loop, and the thread is again brought
around the hook needle by the revolving pinion, when the hook needle again
ascends, bringing up through the previous loop another loop, which by the
advance of the feed the one loop is laid over the other and again planted on
the surface, and held down by the pressure collar ready for the succeeding
stitch, and so on for any number of stitches.
Having now described the several movements, and their peculiar combination
for the forming of the embroidered stitch, as communicated to me from
abroad, I wish it to be distinctly understood that I do not claim the hook
needle or pressure collar, revolving pinion and its revolving collar,. as new;
but what I do claim as new is the combination of the hook needle with the
revolving pinion, revolving collar, pressure collar, pressure foot, and four-
motion bottom feed, actuated by and through the various movements herein
described, and shewn in the Drawings annexed.
In witness whereof, I, the said William Newton Wilson, have here-
unto set my hand and seal, this Eleventh day of April, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-four.
W. N. WILSON. (LS.).