Improvements in Sewing Machines.
Year: 1892

page_text: ate of Application, 5th Apr., 1892-Accepted, 7th May, 1892
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Sewing Machines.
I JAMES YATE JOHNSON of 47 Lincoln's Inn Fields in the County of
Middlesex Gentleman do hereby declare the nature of this invention (which has
been communicated to me from abroad by Willcox & Gibbs Sewing Machine
Company a Corporation organized under the Laws of the State of New York and
having its principal place of business in New York City in the said State) and in
what manner the same is to be performed to be particularly described and ascer-
tained in and by the following statement :-
The present invention embraces certain improvements in sewing machines, which
improvements have particular reference to, and are shown in the drawings as
embodied in, a machine designed to unite two pieces of fabric at the edges by an
overseam. The improvements have especial utility in sewing knitted or looped
fabric.
In the drawings hereinafter described, the invention is shewn applied in two
forms of machines, the one a single thread machine and the other a double thread
machine. The form of machine in which it is preferred to embody this invention
is that, sometimes known as a "box machine," in which all the moving parts of the
machine are secured to the cover of a box which forms the bed plate of the
machine. This cover is hinged to the body of the box, and many of the working
parts of the machine are enclosed within the box. When the cover is shut the
machine is ready for use.
The machine is contrived to run at a very high speed, the reciprocating parts
being as short and light as possible.
The several improvements embraced in the invention can be most conveniently
explained in connection with the accompanying drawings in which Figures 1 to 37
illustrate the construction of a machine organized to form a single thread overedge
seam, Figures 38 to 69 illustrate a double thread machine and Figures 70 to 72
illustrate the construction of the needle.
Referring first to Figures 1 to 37,
Figure 1 is a plan or top view of the machine, the lid of the box being shut,
showing the parts above the lid.
Figure 2 is an elevation, partly in section, with the lid of the box lifted and
showing the parts lying beneath the lid.
Figure 3 is a vertical section from front to rear through the box, showing in
elevation various parts of the machine.
Figure 4 is a plan or top view, partly in section, of the shafts or rods on which
are mounted the presser-foot arm and the lifter arm for lifting it, and consequently
the presser-foot, and also the arm which gives motion to the upper shear blade.
Figure 5 is a vertical elevation, partly in section, from side to side of the
machine, on line ef of Figure 1.
Figure 6 is a view, partly in section and partly in elevation, showing the
mechanism for adjusting the lower shear blade and the work guide which lies
above the bed plate.
Figure 7 is a perspective view of the clearer.
Figure 8 is a vertical section, partly in elevation, from front to rear of the
machine on line ab, of Figure 1.
Figures 9 and 10 are views at right angles to each other, of the globular
eccentric, its rod etc., for actuating the hook.
Figures 1 to 16 both inclusive, are diagrams on a large scale showing the
needle and looper in various positions while forming a stitch.
Figure 17 is a vertical section through the clamping tension of the machine.

page_text: Figures 18 and 19 are a plan and section on a large scale of a part of the throat
plate, showing the finger attached thereto, and also the needle hole.
Figures 20, 21 and 24 are respectively a plan and two elevations of the hinged
presser-foot used in sewing welts, Figure 24 showing the needle and lower
shear-blade.
Figure 25 is a section at right angles to the elevation shown in Figure 24.
Figures 22 and 23 are a plan and elevation of the hinged presser-foot for over-
seaming.
.
Figure 26 is a plan of a throat plate and welt-guide.
Figure 27 is a plan of a presser foot, swinging work-guide etc.
Figures 28 and 29 are a plan and elevation of a presser-foot without a hinge.
Figures 30 and 31 are elevations partly in sections, the latter on a larger scale,
of the needle and looper when the latter is holding a loop above the goods which
is being entered by the needle.
Figures 32 and 33 are similar views, but representing the looper as taking a
loop on the lower side of the cloth.
Figure 34 is a plan, partly in section, of the mechanism for adjusting the lower
shear blade and
Figures 35, 36 and 37 are drawings on a large scale of the preferred form of
looper.
All parts of the machine derive their motion from a single revolving shaft a
provided with a belt pulley a' of any usual and proper kind; and in describing
the machine we will call the end near the hinges the rear, the end opposite it and
near the shears, the front, the side nearest the needle-arm the left, and the side
nearest the belt pulley, the right side of the machine. This main shaft a underlies
the cover or lid, and extends from side to side of the machine, and is provided
first, (beginning at the right hand end) with a cam b for tripping the presser-foot
lifter, an eccentric c for working the upper and movable shear blade, an eccentric d
for actuating the needle-arm and needle, a third eccentric e having a globular face,
for actuating the looper, a fourth eccentric f for lifting and lowering the feeding
surface, and a fifth eccentric f1 for reciprocating the same. All these eccentrics
have proper rings and rods, and are shown with one of the rings in place on the
shaft in Figure 10.
The feed bar f' with its notched surface is best shown in Figure 8. It is
fulcrumed at fon a rock shaft arm and is lifted and lowered by the eccentric
rod ; and the rock-shaft arm, and consequently the feed-bar and feeding surface
are reciprocated by the arm fe (best shown in Figure 3) actuated by the
eccentric This arm f' is adjustably secured to a rock shaft arm on the
same rock-shaft f' which carries the arm on which the feed-bar is fulcrumed,
and the length of the feed may be adjusted by setting the end of the arm f in
different positions in the slot 8 (Figure 3).
This feed, except in precise arrangement, is not new, and may have other feeding
mechanism substituted for it, we sometimes intending to use two feed bars, one of
which moves faster, and through a greater distance than the other, much after the
manner of those employed in ruffling machines.
arm i
The feed surface in this machine is, as usual, surmounted by a presser foot,
which holds the cloth or fabric down upon it. It is attached to an
(Figures 1, 3, 4, 5 and 8) secured to or formed in one piece with a sleeve
(Figure 4) which is carried by a shaft which is capable of rocking, the sleeve
preferably being fast upon the shaft so that they may rock together. To this
same sleeve is secured another arm 6 (see Figures 1, 4, 5 and 8) this arm being
provided at its end with a friction roller which rests against a two-armed lever
(Figure 8). This lever is free to rock, on its fulcrum 6 situated above the bed-
plate, and one arm projects down through a slot in the said bed-plate. The presser-
foot is held down adjustably by a spring 7 (Figure 8) which at its lower edge
bears upon a screw head 8, the screw itself being attached to the arm ', and the
upper end of the spring underlying a bearing attached to the upper side of the bed-
:

page_text: plate. By screwing up and unscrewing this screw, the downward pressure of the
presser-foot may be adjusted. The presser-foot may be lifted by forcing the upper
end of the two-armed lever toward the rear of the machine, the friction roller
on the arm 6 then entering a notch or notches in the lever, and the presser-foot
being thus held up.
The rock shaft 6 and sleeve which carry the presser-foot-arms or levers, are
adjustable end wise or in a direction from side to side of the machine, in a manner
and for reasons which will be hereafter explained. The arm which supports the
presser-foot also carries the thread guide. c (Figures 3, 5 and 8).
The ordinary presser-foot, shown in Figures 28 and 29, capable of being firmly
attached to the arm ', Figures 3 and 8, may be used, but we prefer a presser-foot
so secured to the presser-foot-arm, that it may rock, either end moving up while
the other moves down, as hereafter described, and provided with a spring which
tends to hold the lever or acting surface of the foot horizontal. Two forms of such
a foot, one to be used in sewing ordinary overseams and the other in sewing what
is known as a welt, are represented in the drawings, Figures 20 to 25.
The three forms of presser-foot shown in the drawings are all attached to their
arm by a screw furnished with a large head g¹ (see Figure 3) the body of which
screw enters the slot g in the presser-foot and is screwed into the lower end of the
presser-arm . I prefer to provide all the forms of presser-foot with a finger g'
fying in such relation to the needle and hook that some of the stitches remain for
a time around this finger, and finally slide off its point as the goods being sewn
are carried along by the feed which causes them to progress toward the rear of the
machine.
Figures 22 and 23 represent in plan and elevation respectively a rocking presser-
foot for ordinary seams, and like the presser-foot (Figures 20, 21, 24 and 25) for
sewing welts, is composed essentially of three pieces namely the foot proper g³,
the piece which is attached to the presser-arm or lever and a spring 9. The
piece 9 has projecting horizontally from it a bar rounded on the bottom and
flat on top. The presser-foot proper g³ has on its upper surface a groove or gutter
which fits and embraces the lower part of the bar g thereby forming an articulated
junction (see Figures 21, 23 and 24) and that end of the presser-foot proper which
lies in front of the needle has attached to it the spring which bears upon the flat
upper surface of the bar g, and consequently performs three duties; first, to hold
the foot proper to the piece gt; second, it permits the foot to rock as seams or
uneven thicknesses of goods pass under it; third, it tends to raise, and does raise,
either end of the foot proper, so that its whole lower surface becomes horizoutal as
soon as inequalities have passed under the foot. The hinge on which the foot
proper turns is, as will be seen, in advance of the needle, and this is important
not only because it equalizes the pressure of the foot on both sides of the hinge
and applies the pressure near the shear, but also because in a machine which shears
before it makes a seam, the presser-foot must be a long one.
Other kinds and arrangements of spring or springs may be used, and the hinge
may be on a line with the needle, and the bar g may pass through an eye on the
presser-foot proper, so that the latter may be held up without the aid of the spring.
The construction shown in the drawings is, however preferred.
In sewing welts, in order to make the best appearing seam, it is necessary that
the lower shear blade should have its cutting edge level, or very nearly level,
with the upper thickness of cloth, so that it may, with the presser-foot clamp that
thickness firmly while the upper shear blade is making the cut, and act also as
an edge guide. I therefore provide the foot, used for welting, with a recess or
hollow g (see Figures 21, 24 and 25) in its lower surface, so that the edge of the
lower blade / can lie on a level, or thereabout, with the upper surface of the
most piece of cloth at the line of seam, and clamping that part of the cloth in which
the shear-cut is to be made between the shear edge and the bottom of the recess
(see Figures 24 and 25). In this position of the lower shear blade, its vertical
surface nearest the needle acts as an edge guide. When an ordinary overseam
upper-

page_text: is being sewn the shearing edge of the lower blade is to be set flush with the throat
plate (see Figure 8).
The needle-arm d' is mounted upon the rocking shaft which lies below the
bed-plate and is driven as before said, by the eccentric & through the rod ³ (see
Figure 30) which passes upward through the bed-plate and is pivoted to the needle-
arm between its fulcrum (which is the shaft (2) and the place where the needle is
secured to the arm. The application of the power to the needle-arm in this locality
causes it to move with great precision, and I believe diminishes the friction and
wear both on the rock shaft and the pivot of the eccentric rod.
3
The needle-arm has adjustably secured to it the pull-off y (see Figure 3) which
at each downward motion of the needle takes from the tension apparatus the
determined amount of thread for forming the next stitch. The machine is also
provided with a spring-thread-controller and reciprocating arm 2' which prevents
the thread from falling down and forming slack between the needle and the goods,
taking up and letting fall the thread at the proper times. As this pull-off and its
operation, and likewise the thread controller, have been described, in former Patents,
it is not necessary to describe them more fully.
It will be seen by reference to Figure 3 and Figures 30 to 33, that the needle
and needle-arms are so arranged that the needle pierces the cloth, at an angle of
less than 90° to the surface of the work plate this line of motion of the needle with
reference to the cloth being essential when it is used in connection with a looper
moving, as in this machine, in a plane at right angles to the line of seam and to
the surface of the cloth, and having no shogging or sidewise motion. This peculiar
line of travel of the needle in connection with a looper moving in the above defined
plane, enables the looper to seize the loop below the cloth (see Figure 33) on one
side of the needle (that nearest the already formed seam) and to hold the loop
above the cloth on the other side of the needle, viz. that which is farthest from
the already formed seam, (see specially Figures 31 and 33) thus enabling the stitch
to be formed in proper shape and with certainty. The needle moves in a vertical
plane lengthwise of the seam, but enters and leaves the cloth at an oblique angle to
the surface of the cloth. The looper moves also in a vertical plane but in one at
right angles to the line of seam and to the surface of the cloth, and the obliquity
of the needle to the cloth is necessarily great enough to cause the needle to lie on
one side of the looper when both are below the cloth, and on the other side of the
looper when both are above the cloth.
Now these relative positions of the looper and needle may also exist when the
needle pierces at right angles to the cloth and the looper has all its motions in a
plane inclined to the cloth, it is therefore considered that such a structure, in which
the plane in which the looper moves is inclined to the cloth, and the line in which
the needle moves is perpendicular thereto, is the same as or equivalent to that
represented in the drawings and the machine may be so constructed.
The needie is secured in any suitable manner to the needle-arm, and although it
is preferred to use a swinging needle arm with the power applied between the
needle and the fulcrum of the arm, the power may if convenient be applied to an
extension of the arm behind the fulcrum, or a needle bar moving in a straight line
may be used. The preferred form of needle will be described hereafter.
The looper is provided with two jaws, an upper one to seize the loop below the
cloth, and a lower one to distend the loop and hold it distended above the cloth; so
that the needle may pass through the loop. The loop releases itself from the
upper jaw and falls on the lower one just after the work has passed the position
shown in Figure 14. The upper jaw is hooked, and the lower jaw has by preference
a groove in it oblique to the plane in which the looper moves, which causes the top
of the loop to be held obliquely to the seam, so that the needle may enter the loop
more easily. But this groove may be dispensed with and the top of the loop be
held parallel with the seam. The groove to hold the top of the loop oblique to the
seam is specially useful in what is called "chaining," that is, forming stitches in
succession, but not through the cloth, after a seam has been finished and before

page_text: another seam has been commenced, thus permitting the machine to be kept in
continuous motion, as successive pieces of goods to be sewn are introduced. The
machine will thus finish a seam, then make a chain of independent stitches, and
then commence another seam in a succeeding piece of cloth without being
stopped.
The looper is so clearly shown in Figures 35, 36 and 37, that it is hardly
necessary to describe it in words. It has an upper jaw w¹ provided with a hook, a
lower jaw provided with a groove w oblique to the line of motion of the hook,
and a hollow or depression with a nearly vertical axis into which the needle
passes (see especially Figures 31 and 36) when entering the loop held by the lower
jaw of the looper.
Various relative positions of the needle and looper are shown in Figures 11 to 16
both inclusive. The looper moves in below the cloth as shewn in Figure 11, and
seizes the loop, held there by the needle as shewn in Figure 12 retreats and pulls
out the loop, as shewn in Figure 13 lifts it above the cloth as shewn in Figure 14
then moving over the cloth and presser foot holds the loop on the lower jaw as
shewn in Figure 15 so that it may be entered by the needle. In all these positions,
except the first and last, the upper jaw holds the loop, but as the looper passes
from the position shewn in Figure 14 to that shewn in Figure 15 the drag upon the
loop, in connection with the motion of the looper, pulls it out of the hook in the
upper jaw, and the loop is drawn downward into the groove in the lower jaw.
In Figure 16 the looper, is shewn as having retreated out of the loop above the
cloth and descended into the position shewn in Figure 11, in readiness to move
inwards and seize the next loop below the cloth.
The looper moves inwards below the cloth and seizes a loop, then outwards after
it has seized a loop, next upwards above the cloth, and finally inwards to hold the
loop so that it may be entered by the needle, it then returns in reverse motion;
but the velocity and times of these movements are unessential, so long as the looper
passes through the loop below the cloth after the needle has risen a little to spread
it, and holds the loop above the cloth before the needle descends low enough to
enter it, and lastly retreats soon enough out of this loop to leave it free to be pulled
up into the seam.
These essential motions may be given to the looper by means of various
mechanical movements, but that shown in the drawings is preferred (see especially
Figures 3, 5, 31 and 32). The looper w is shown as formed with a long tail or
downward extension and at the junction of the looper and tail (which are in one
piece) there is a circular hole which receives a wrist-screw e³. This wrist-screw
attaches the looper to an arm e supported in a bearing in a bracket e below the
bed plate. This bracket also supports, near its lower end, a rock-shaft provided at
each end with an arm e and e. The tail of the looper is connected at its lower
end, by means of a wrist-pin, or screw, to the arm e. The other arm & is provided
with a globular wrist-pin, which is embraced by a globular bearing at the lower
end of the eccentric rod e8 of the eccentric e, which has, as before described a
globular face, and an eccentric ring, whose inner surface is part of a hollow sphere.
This enables the eccentric e to rock the arm e, although a vertical plane passing
through the axis of the main shaft which carries the eccentric e is perpendicular to
a vertical plane passing through the axis of the rock-shaft which carries the
arms e, e. The relative lengths of the three rock-shaft arms ee and e°, their
relative positions, and the length of the throw of the eccentric e may all be ascer-
tained from the drawings. When the eccentric e is turned, it moves the armes, and
consequently the arm e (keyed upon the same shaft or made in one piece with e³)
up and down. The arm e' moves the looper up and down, but the motion of the
looper is so constrained and directed by its connection with the rock shaft arm e*,
that it moves in under the cloth as it descends, thence outwards and upwards as it
ascends, and inwards above the cloth and so on going through the motions and
occupying the positions formerly described.
Two of the arms, ciz. e connected to the lower end of the tail of the looper,

page_text: :
:
and connected at the junction of the tail and looper are essential, but the move-
ment of the arm e, so long as it is moved through the proper distance and at the
proper time, may be derived from any appropriate train of mechanism.
The machine, as before stated, is provided with a shearing apparatus, the
preferred kind of such apparatus being represented in the drawings. The upper and
moveable shear-blade c¹ is adjustably mounted in a socket or containing groove, on
the end of a rocking arm (see Figs. 1, 3, 5 and 8) and held in place by a set
screw, being adjustable in order that it may be moved down as it loses length
in consequence of the wearing away of its edge by sharpening.
The arm c is secured to, or made in one piece with a sleeve c' (see Figs. 1, 4
and 8) which is mounted upon a rock shaft c, or the sleeve may rock on a stationary
shaft. In order to move this arm c2 up and down, the upper end of an eccentric
rode is pivotted to it between the sleeve c' and the shear blade, this rod receiving
motion from the eccentric c (see Fig. 3) on the main shaft. The pin by which the
arm is connected to the upper end of the eccentric rod e is a long one, so that it
can be slid endwise in the hole, or bearing therein. The rod, bar or shaft c is also
free to slide endwise in a direction from side to side of the machine, consequently
the upper shear blade can be adjusted sidewise and made to work in different
but parallel planes, so as to shear the goods in lines at a greater or less distance'
from the seam as may be required.
The presser foot is adjustable sidewise, the hole in the said presser-foot through
which the needle passes being wide enough to permit of the presser-foot
being thus moved. Both the sleeve 2 to which the presser-foot-arm is attached
and the sleeve c to which the upper shear blade is attached, although they can
rock cannot move in the direction of the lengths of these shafts independently of
the said shafts because they are each provided with a screw t (see Fig. 4) whose
point enters, or is pressed against the shaft. Consequently if the shafts, or rods,
be moved in the direction of their lengths, the sleeves with the arms bi
and made in one piece with them and also the upper shear blade and the presser-
foot, will be moved sidewise, and if the two shafts be adjusted simultaneously, the
upper shear blade under all adjustments of itself and the presser-foot will move
in contact, or almost in contact, with the right hand side of the presser foot as
shewn in Figure 25.
Each of the two shafts or rods which rests in bearings at each end
(see Fig 4); is hollow or recessed at its left end S, and contains a compressed
spring S. These springs bear at one end against the bottoms of the recesses
in the shafts, and at their other ends against a fixed plate S the springs always
tending to move the shafts to the right. This tendency is counteracted by a
disc S³ on a screw S₁ against which disc the right hand ends of the shafts abut.
The screw S is preferably hollow and slotted lengthwise, so as to fit its nut
elastically but it may be an ordinary screw. Now, if the screw be turned in
one direction, it will move the shafts simultaneously to the left, thereby com-
pressing the springs S₁, and when the screw is turned in the other direction,
the springs will move the shaft to the right, thus adjusting the upper shear
blade and presser-foot simultaneously, so that the line of cut may be in close
proximity to the line where the cloth is clamped down by the presser-foot. The
whole object of this contrivance is to adjust the presser-foot and upper shear
blade sidewise simultaneously, and hold them in position when adjusted, and
many modifications, equivalents as a whole, of those described, will suggest them-
selves to the intelligent mechanic. For instance, the sleeves may be loose
upon the shafts, so that the shafts will not rock, but the sleeves will rock upon
then, the said sleeves being secured immovably endwise upon the shafts, and the
springs may surround the shafts, or different forms of spring may be used, so
long as they tend to move the shafts endwise; or the shafts may be moved
positively endwise in both directions and without the aid of springs, by a disc
secured to the screw S*, the periphery of which disc shall enter circular grooves
in both shafts.;. or the shafts may be moved endwise by turning simultaneously

page_text: screw nuts encircling each of the shafts, such nuts being held from moving in
the direction of the length of the shafts, or one shaft only may be used, and
both sleeves mounted thereon in such manner that they are free to rock, but not
to move end wise thereon, or one of the sleeves may be fixed firmly to the shaft
✓ to rock with it, while the other sleeve is free to rock, but not to slide
thereon, but the mode shewn in the drawings is preferred as the contrivance
there shewn is reliable and free from rattling usually consequent upon long
continued wear.
The lower shear blade does not reciprocate but is adjustable sidewise, and
vertically. It will be seen by reference to Figs. 2 and 8 that the body of the box
is not rectangular, but has a projection or extension from the front at the left hand
corner, and the stock of the lower shear blade lies outside of the box just to
the right of this projection. This stock is attached at its upper end to a
carriage shewn partly, in plan, partly in section, in Fig. 34, and in elevation at
Fig. 6. The left hand end of this carriage rests in a three-sided groove ³, Fig. 3
forming part of the bottom of the box-cover, or bed-plate. The stock has a long
slot, or groove in it, preferably inclined to the bed-plate (see Fig. 8) in which
the lower shear blade h fits snugly and is held, so that it may be adjusted up or
down and held in position by a clamp bearing at one end upon the blade, and
forced against it by a set-screw which screws into the stock. Being thus held,
the blade can be adjusted when worn.
to the left of the movable blade c!, the left side of the movable blade being against
The top or shearing edge of the blade lies
the right side of the stationary one, (see Fig. 25). The edge of the upper blade c
is inclined downwards and rearwards (see Fig. 3) and I prefer to give such a small
range of motion to the said upper blade that its lowest point, even when this blade
is lifted, shall not rise above the top of the lower blade. Under this construction
the upper blade serves as a stop or guide for the sidewise adjustment of the lower
blade.
The carriage with its attached stock is movable sidewise in its containing
groove, and I prefer to keep it continually pressed to the right by a spring 1,
Figures 6 and 34, which lies in a cavity in the stock, and is compressed between
the end of this cavity and the periphery or barrel, of a screw . This screw
passes through elongated slots in the carriage, and screws into the vertical wall of
the groove in which the carriage slides.;:
Prior to adjusting the upper and movable blade sidewise, as before explained,
this screw must be slacked, and then the lower blade will, under the force of the
spring, follow the upper blade, if the latter be moved to the right, while, when the
upper blade is moved to the left, it will press the lower blade in the same direction
against the force of the spring h.
If the upper blade is not required to be moved higher than as arranged in the
machine illustrated a spring alone, which tends to force the carriage to the right,
and without the clamp-screw h³, may be used, or the spring may be dispensed with,
and the clamp-screw alone used, the carriage being moved sidewise by hand, and
the screw,
alone can thus be used, even if the upper blade moves entirely away
from and above the lower one.
When the shear blades are adjusted, it is not only expedient to adjust the
presser-foot with them, as before explained, but also the edge guide k (see Figs. 1
and 6). This guide lies on top of the table at the front and right side of the feed..
I prefer to provide it with two steady pins K' K¹ projecting downwards from its
ower surface, into elongated slots in the table, and which may also enter vertical
holes K K (Figs. 6 and 34) in the carriage ². A screw fitting tightly in a
ole in the guide passes through an elongated slot in the table, and then screws
nto the carriage. The carriage and guide are thus united together, and when the
arriage and lower shear blade are moved for sidewise adjustment, the edge-guide
Doves and is adjusted with them. The edge-guide above the table may be
ttached to the carriage in various ways known to mechanics, provided that the

page_text: attaching devices permit and cause the edge guide to move sidewise when the
carriage moves.
It is
As has been already stated, the lower shear stock and blade, lie outside of the
box proper, the trimmings from the fabric may therefore fall outside.
preferred to force the trimmings downwards, and to this end there is attached to
the lower side of the outer end of the upper shear blade lever c³ a clearer /
(Figs. 5, 7 and 8), consisting of a thin plate attached to the shear lever by bending
it horizontally and securing the horizontal part by screws and steady pins to the
under side of the lever. The lower edge of the vertical portion of this plate is the
acting part of the clearer, which, when the upper shear blade descends, strikes
against the trimmings and forces them down through the hole in the lid of the box
out of the way of the looper.
This clearer is provided with a horizontal projection by means of which the
vertical position of the upper shear blade can be adjusted. After this blade has
been sharpened it is set in its containing groove in the lever so that its lowest and
rearmost end touches the upper part of the projection l'. Its cutting edge is thus
readily and properly adjusted, and the clamp screw which secures the upper blade
in place is then set up.
The throat-plate O through which the needle passes from above, and also the
feed surface entering from beneath, and through which likewise the lower shear
blade projects, is best shewn in Fig. 26. It is provided with a short finger O¹
Figs. 18 and 19 the unattached point, or end of which is toward the rear of the
machine. This finger is so situated with reference to the needle that the stitches
are formed around it and slip off its point as the goods proceed to the rear of the
machine. In this machine, therefore, in its preferred form, the thread, while
each stitch is being made, is caused to engage two fingers, one above and the other
below the cloth, thus preventing all liability of rucking or rolling up the edge of
the goods.
The lever by means of which the presser-foot may be lifted has been herein-
before described. It can be lifted only when the looper does not overlie it, and
after it has been lifted, a careless movement of the main shaft might cause the
looper to strike the foot and injure the machine. The cam (see especially
Fig. 8) is so formed and located on the main shaft that it will, when the shaft is
turned, strike against the lower arm of the lifting lever of the presser-foot at
such times as the looper lies above the presser-foot, thus tripping the lever. Hence,
if the foot be lifted and the main shaft revolved, this cam & will knock the lifting
lever out from under the friction roller on the lever 6 thus permitting the
presser-foot to be forced down by its spring 68, and preventing the looper
from striking against the presser-foot during a further revolution of the main
shaft.
The machine as shewn in the drawings is provided with a device now commonly
known as a .. measuring tension," in which the thread passes from the spool, first,
through a tension device of any suitable known kind, thence through a pull-off,"
actuated preferably by the needle arm, and thence through a clamping tension,
that is, a tension which at times holds the thread strongly, and at times relaxes its
grasp upon the thread.
This clamping tension must be acted upon by some moving part of the machine,
and has hitherto been caused to clamp the thread by means of an upper disc moved
downwards by a spring, the under disc, or clamping surface being stationary.
When it was necessary to relax this pressure so as to remove a thread, or draw
it through the clamps, or put in a new thread without turning the main shaft of
the machine, the operator had to insert a finger nail, or some thin instrument,
under the clamp to lift it.
The new arrangement or construction of this clamping apparatus, which is
best shewn in vertical section, Fig. 17 obviates this difficulty.
In this drawing a portion of the needle armi d', its sleeve, and the rocking

page_text: shaft supporting them are shewn with another arme attached to the sleeve, and
therefore reciprocating with the needle arm. This arm is slotted, and embraces
a pin v', free to slide in a socket and provided with a button which the arm e
overlies. The pin ¹ has secured at its upper end, by a screw, which is a prolonga-
tion of the pin, a disc composed of leather or cloth, supported by a metal washer,
or other suitable clamping disc, such as are used in clamping apparatus. A coiled
spring surrounds the pin which spring lies in an enlargement of the socket in
which the pin slides the said spring bearing at one end against the bottom of the
socket and at the other end against the washer, and tending to force the washer
and clamping surface upwards. The screw which holds the clamping disc to the
pin, projects upwards through a hole in an upper clamping disc », which is secured,
to the metal in which the socket is formed, by two screws, or in any other suitable
The thread in its passage to the needle passes between the two clamping
manner.
discs.
When the slotted arm is moved downwards it depresses the button t² and
pulls the pin of down, thereby compressing the spring ³, and drawing down the
movable clamping disc, thus permitting the thread to move, or be drawn freely
between the discs. When the slotted arm rises, the spring ³ forces up the disc
and pin, and the thread is clamped.
When the thread is thus clamped, a downward push upon the screw which
secures the disc to the pin will depress the movable disc and unclamp the thread,
such depression being possible because the pin can move freely downwards in the
slot of the arm r.
The drawings of the presser foot, (Figs. 20 to 25) shew a shield g³ attached
thereto on the side farthest from the shears. This shield rises at first vertically,
and then bends over away from the needle. It prevents knitted or sleazy goods,
while being sewn, from getting in the way of the needle, and also protects the
fingers of the operator from being accidentally pierced by the needle.
is important where the needle-arm is short, and the parts, which shear the edge
This shield
and make the seam are crowded together.
Figures 38 to 69 both inclusive illustrate the construction of a machine, according
to this invention adapted to form a double-thread overedge seam.
Figure 38 is a top view of the machine; Figs. 39 and 40 are detail views of a
cuff guide; Figs. 41 and 42 details of a needle shield; Fig. 43 is a vertical
section of the tension apparatus; Fig. 44 a top view of the upper tension washer;
Figs. 45 and 46 are views in plan and elevation respectively of the presser-foot ;
Fig. 47 is a bottom view of the machine; Fig. 48 is a side view of the upper
shear blade and arm; Fig. 49 is a vertical section thereof transverse to the arm;
Figs. 50 and 51 are sections through the throat plate shewing the looper in two
positions; Fig. 52 is a detail view of the work-plate; Fig. 53 is a side view of the
feed rocker and its driving rod; Fig. 54 is a side view of the feed mechanism;
Fig. 55 is a top view thereof; Fig. 56 is a side view of the lower thread take-up
nd its operative mechanism; Fig. 57 is a similar view of the upper thread take-up
and operative mechanism; Figs. 58 and 59 are details of the take up eccentrics;
Fig. 60 is a side view of the needle arm; Figs. 61 to 66 both inclusive are details
llustrating the different steps in the formation of a stitch; Fig. 67 is a detail view
bewing part of a finished seam; Fig. 68 is an elevation and Fig. 69 a sectional
iew illustrating parts of the shearing mechanism.
The general form and organization of the machine, and many of the parts or
lements thereof, are similar to those already described, and the following descrip-
ion will be confined mainly to the features in respect of which the two machines
iffer.
In forming an overedge seam by means of two threads whose successive loops
terlock, (and which is denominated an "overlock seam ") the lower jaw of the
oper becomes a needle and is provided near its point with an eye for the lower
read.
In order to exert proper control over the two threads it has been found necessary

page_text: to introduce two take-up mechanisms, operating in connection with the needle and
looper respectively, and the invention embraces the combinations of these elements
as well as the particular construction and arrangement of the take-up mechanisms
which with their purpose and action, will be hereinafter fully described.
In sewing fabric, and particularly in sewing knit goods, the effect of the action
of the needle and feed is to stretch the fabric at the edge, and in an overedge
stitch there is nothing to counteract this tendency to elongate the fabric at the
sewed edge. For this purpose we have introduced a gathering or differential
acting feed, that is to say a feed by which the work is pushed or crowded toward
the needle somewhat faster than it is moved away from the needle in the rear
thereof. The result is the production of a seam which is at least no longer, and
practically may with advantage be made a little shorter than the body of the goods.
This part of the invention includes, while not limited thereto, the particular
construction of the feed action which is preferred, and which will be hereafter,
explained.
This mode of compressing or shortening the edge of the goods, is to be
distinguished from the operation of the old gathering feed, whereby the edge of
the goods was formed into ruffles or gathers.
In the machine hereinbefore described provision is made for the simultaneous
adjustment, in a direction at right angles to the seam, of the presser foot and
shearing mechanism, the object being to provide an initial adjustment of the width
of trimming suitable for the particular work in hand, which adjustment was not
designed to be disturbed during the progress of the work. In some cases it is
desirable to provide means for increasing the width of trimming at certain
portions of the work where a stronger seam than ordinarily needed, is required
to guard against the danger of ravelling. This necessity presents itself, for
example, in sewing under the arm-holes of shirts or in places where the fabric is
cut across, or more or less obliquely to, its wales. Means for effecting this
adjustment while the work is in progress, and without interrupting the operation
of the machine constitute a feature of the invention, as do also the particular means
hereinafter described for that purpose, and the modifications of other parts made
to accommodate the same to this new action, as for instance the provision whereby
the lower shear blade is permitted to follow automatically the motions of the
presser-foot and upper blade.
In the use of this machine it is found advantageous to employ for the under
thread a soft single yarn, similar to the yarn of which the fabric is knitted, and
which, in passing through a tension apparatus sheds a great deal of lint which
would soon clog an ordinary friction tension, and by holding the friction surfaces
apart impair their action. To overcome this difficulty, a special form of tension
device partaking of the nature of both the wheel and friction varieties has been
devised, and comprising a revolving part or washer around which the thread is
wound, and another washer or disc held in contact with the first by a spring whose
pressure imparts the requisite tension to the thread. A space is left between the
barrel of the revolving washer and the co-operating friction washer sufficiently
large to permit the escape of lint. A good hard twist thread (such as employed
for the upper thread) does not make lint; still small pieces of cotton or lumps on
the thread frequently get caught between the tension discs and hold them apart, so
that the form of tension herein described is desirable also for the upper thread.
This kind of thread requires considerable tension, and in order to make the washers
revolve with a smooth hard thread it is preferred to add a supplemental tension or
friction to produce such tight hold upon the barrel as to revolve the same. This
part of the invention includes the special construction of tension apparatus
Hereinafter more fully described.
On the underside of the cover A and extending across the same, is the main
shaft a in bearings a" which shaft carries a number of eccentrics and cams for
operating the several parts.
Supported in bearings 6" behind the shaft a-and parallel therewith, is the rock-

page_text: shaft to which the sleeve d at the lower end of the needle bar e is secured by a
screw d'. It also serves as a centre of oscillation for the sleeve f of the lower
thread take-up and the sleeve g of the upper thread take-up.
The needle-arme (Figs. 38, 47 and 60) is reciprocated through a rod e¹ from an
eccentric e on the shaft a. The looper (Figs. 47, 50 and 51) which operates in
conjunction with the needle in forming the stitch, is supported and actuated in a
similar manner to that herein before described. It is pivotted at its lower extremity
to the crank arm 2 of a rock-shaft, which at its other end has a crank arm 3 by
which it is driven from au eccentric on the shaft a. Near the middle of its shank.
the looper is pivotted to a crank arm 4 which swings through an arc whose
extreme limits are indicated in Figs. 50 and 51. By reason of the control of the
arm 4, when the arm 2 raises the looper h, its operating end instead of rising vertically
describes a curve around the throat plate and the edge of the fabric thereon,
the upper and lower extremes of this curve being in substantially the same vertical.
plane.
As in the machine hereinbefore described, the needle moves in a plane that
intersects the plane of motion of the looper at an oblique angle, so that the looper
passes behind the needle when beth are beneath the cloth, as shewn in Fig. 61 and
in front of the needle when both are above the cloth, as shown in Figure 65. The
looper is bifurcated at its operating end and the upper member 5 is barbed or
hooked. The lower member 6 is pointed and has an eye near the point, constituting
a needle for the lower thread which passes to the eye through a slot 7 (Figure 51)
in the upper member or jaw 5. The front face of the lower member 6 is provided
with a thread groove 8.
In operation (see Figures 61-66) the needle 10, having carried the upper thread
through the fabric, casts a loop of the thread as it begins to rise.
At this point,
the upper jaw 5 of the looper begins to enter this loop (Figure 61) behind the
needle, and continues its movement to the left as the needle rises until its barb or
hook is well beyond the loop which is drawn close around the shank of the jaw
(Figure 62). The looper then begins its movement to the right and upward, the
loop being caught by the hook and carried around the edges of the fabric (Figures 63
and 64) and at the same time is spread so that, when it falls from the hook, it is
caught by the shank of the looper needle 6 (Figure 65) which passes the thread
(the lower thread) carried thereby doubled through the loop. The needle 10 is
now descending, and while its previous loop is still held by the looper needle 6, its
point passes between the rear face of the looper-needle and its thread, so that when
the looper retreats and descends (Figure 66) a loop of the under thread is caught
by the needle 10. A succession of these movements produces a seam which is
clearly delineated in Figure 67, the successive loops of the two threads being
locked along a line at or near the edge of the fabric. This interlock may take
place at the edge, or at a greater or less distance from the edge on the top or
bottom of the work, according to the timing of the lower thread take-up, which will
be presently described.
For the proper control of the threads two take-ups are required. The under
thread take-up (Figure 56) consists of an upright finger 11, having an eye 12 in
its upper end which projects through a slot in the bed plate or cover A (Figure 38).
Adjacent to and on opposite sides of the take up are thread guides 13, 14 the thread
passing first through guide 13, then through the eye of the take-up, then through
guide 14, and thence to the looper needle 6. As the finger 11 moves up between
the guides 13, 14 it draws up the lower thread and sets the stitch. In setting the
stitch at the edge as shown in Figure 67, the take-up begins to draw on the thread
about the time the looper begins to move upward, and ceases to act when the looper
lias completed about half of this upward movement.
The take-up finger 11 is carried by a frame or arm 15 attached to or in one
piece with the sleeve which, as already stated, can oscillate freely upon the rock
shaft c (Figure 56). The frame 15 is forked and its members embrace a plate 16

page_text: which can slide freely between them. The frame is oscillated by an eccentric i on
the shaft a, which eccentric turns in a circular opening in the plate 16.
The upper thread take-up (Figures 38 and 57) is a slotted finger 20, on the end
of a reciprocating arm 21. À curved bar 22 lies in the slot of the finger 20, and
this bar is herein termed the take-up post. The thread passes between this post
and a spring 23 which bears lightly against the post at the point 24 (Figure 57).
It is desirable to give a quick action to the take-up, to effect which the arm 21 is
given a long movement, only a small part of which movement, namely, that which
takes place behind the thread pins 25, 26 (Figure 38) is effective in drawing upon
the thread. The arm 21 is in one piece with a sleeve g (which is in two parts,
the sleeve d of the needle-arm lying between them) which can oscillate freely
about the rock-shaft ", and is actuated by an eccentric k on the shaft
(Figures 47 and 57) through a rod 27 and an arm 28, attached to or in one
picce with the sleeve g.
The object of the take up post 22 and spring 23 is to hold the thread lightly at
the extreme back end of the movement until the descent of the eye of the needle,
there being a double incline on the upper edge of post 22, which acts as a detent.
When the needle descends through the cloth the spring yields permitting the
thread to slip past the detent, and the thread is drawn out until it brings up against
the thread pins 25, 26 which are so arranged as to allow but little movement of the
thread until the time when it is necessary to have the eye of the needle act upon
the thread to assist in drawing up the stitch. The stitch is thus drawn up partly
by the needle, and partly by the take up which is acting on the thread while the
needle is ascending. At the same time when the upper thread has escaped from the
spring 23 and brings up against the thread-pins, the lower jaw or needle 6 of
the looper is just backing out of the loop of the upper thread (see Figure 65)
which consequently can be drawn up. This is done by the continued downward
movement of the upper needle: When the eye of the needle 10 is passing through
the cloth the thread pins 25, 26 resist the drawing of the thread through the
tension, consequently as the needle must have a supply of thread its continued
downward movement draws up the stitch.
The feed of the cloth is effected by two serrated feed surfaces and m (Figures 54
and 55) carried respectively by the feed-bars l¹ m². The feed-surface acts upon
the fabric in front of the needle, and the feed surface m acts behind the needle.
For reasons already explained is desirable to crowd the goods toward the needle
somewhat faster than it is fed away from the same, which effect is produced by
giving to the feed bar a somewhat longer horizontal motion than that given to
the feed-bar m'. Both these bars are pivoted to the feed-rocker n, which rocks on
the centre 30. The bar is attached to the rocker at a point farther from the
centre 30 than the point of attachment of the bar m', and consequently has a longer
and faster motion. The rocker n is actuated by an eccentric o on the shaft a
(Figure 53) through a rod 31, which is connected with the rocker by a screw
pin 32 passing through a slot therein, so that by setting the screw to different
positions in the slot the length of stitch can be varied. It will be noticed that a
change in the length of feed does not affect the relation of the movements of the
two feed surfaces.
The vertical movement of the feed-bars is derived from an eccentric p, on the main
shaft a as clearly shown in Figure 54.
The improved feed mechanism consisting of the two feed surfaces, one acting in
front and the other in the rear of the needle, and the former having a more rapid
motion than the latter, will be found useful in forming zig-zag seams, and in some
instances, even in forming straight seams.
The rocking presser-foot 7 (Figures 38, 45 and 46) is substantially like that
heretofore described. It is however, provided in the rear edge of the part which
bears on the cloth with a V-shaped notch 80. The object of this notch is to
facilitate the breaking of the chain or stitches between two pieces of goods, which

page_text: is accomplished by pulling the chain over the presser-foot. In so doing the chain
is wedged into the notch 80 and the puil exerted to break it produces no strain on
the needle and looper, so that the machine is ready to start again on the next piece
of work.
The rocking presser-foot g is carried by a presser bar 35, which is attached to
or made in one piece with a sleeve 36 on the shaft », and may be raised by the
lifting lever 360 in the usual way. Parallel with the shaft r is a similar shaft. 8, and
both these shafts pass through a bearing 37 and touch at their ends against a
mut 40, the shafts being pressed towards this nut by springs as in the machine
hereinbefore described. The shaft supports the arm 41 of the upper shear
blade 12 (see Figures 48 and 49) so that the presser-foot and upper shear blade
partake of the longitudinal motions of the shafts rs whereby the width of trimming
will be varied. The present object is to provide means whereby the width of
trimming may be changed without interrupting the operation of the machine. To
this end the screw nut 40 is provided with an arm 410, adapted for connection with
a treadle so as to be operated by the foot of the operator. For the purpose of
limiting the motion in either direction to the point desired, a number of holes are
bored in the periphery of the nut 40 to receive stop pins 420; which arrest the motion
of the nut by contact with the overhanging projection 430 from the bearing 37.
It will be evident that to permit the making of frequent and instantaneous
changes in the width of trimming, the lower, or stationary cutter must be free to
follow the upper blade in its various positions, consequently the clamp screw
employed in the single thread machine to clamp the lower blade holder in position,
is omitted.
The upper shear blade 42 is set so as to be adjustable vertically in the head of
the arm 41, and is held by a clamping screw 43. This screw does not bear directly
upon the blade, but on an interposed shoe 44 (Figure 49). At the lower end of
the shoe is a little projection or toe 45 upon which the bottom of the shear blade 42
Posts, so that the shoe constitutes a guide for setting the blade, the cutting edge of
which blade is at 46. The shoe +4 constitutes the clearer for deflecting downward
the cut off strip it also supports the upper blade so as to counteract any tendency
thereof to bend away from the lower blade.
The lower shear blade 90 (Figures 68 and 69) is a thin bar of steel set in an
oblique groove in the stock 91 and adjustable lengthwise therein. The stock 91, is
set against the end of the carriage 92 and secured thereto by screws 99. The end
of the carriage 92 has projections 93, 94 which embrace and clamp the edges of the
stock. The projection 94 is in a piece of steel set at one end in the carriage, and
is somewhat springy and can be drawn towards the latter so as to clamp the stock
thereto by means of a screw 95 provided with a milled head. The carriage 92 can
slide in a box 96 secured to the bed-plate of the machine. It is pressed towards
the right, that is to say in a direction to keep the stationary blade 90 in contact
with the upper blade 42, by means of a compression spring 97, which presses at one
end against the carriage, and at the other end against the head of a stationary
pin 98.
It is evident that when the upper shear-blade is moved to the right, the
carriage and all parts carried thereby will follow it, keeping the upper blade in
contact with the lower one, and that, when the upper blade is moved to the left, the
lower blade and its supporting parts will be pushed in the same direction against
the pressure of the spring 97.
The tension apparatus is illustrated in Figures 43 and 44. The parts which act
directly on the thread are two washers 50, 51 which loosely surround a pin 52
threaded at its upper end. The lower washer has a hub or barrel 53, and the
thread is given a partial turn around this barrel. The upper washer 51 is struck
up at the centre, forming a hollow or depression which fits over the barrel 53 without
touching the same. The raised central disc 55 of the upper washer is connected
with the lower part thereof only by the narrow strips 56 between which are left
spaces for the escape of lint. These strips do not touch that part of the thread
which surrounds the barrel 53, and which lies in the triangular space between these

page_text: =
parts so that the tension (as far as the same is imparted to the thread by pressure
of the opposing friction surfaces) is confined in its action to a small surface, the
faces of the washers being made designedly convex. As the thread is drawn by
the needle it partly slips between the friction surfaces and also slightly revolves the
washers so that any little lint that may be left between the friction surfaces is
being constantly removed by the rctation of the washers. Between the nut 60, and
the upper tension washer is interposed the washer 57, and between the spring 61
and the lower tension washer is the washer 58, the bearing surfaces of the
washers 57 and 58 being reduced as shown, so that the tension washers may rotate
with greater freedom. The pressure of the tension spring 61 may be regulated by
turning the nut 60 in the proper direction. To limit the adjustment a cross-pin 62
carried by the nut 60 makes contact with a projection 63 of the screw pin 52 and is
arrested thereby.
An
Where a smooth hard twisted thread is used, it is necessary in order that the
loop of thread around the barrel 53 may take strong enough hold to turn the latter,
that a supplemental tension should be employed as shown at Figure 38. The
loosely spun yarn which we prefer to employ for the lower thread has a rough
surface, which enables it with a very light tension to turn the washers.
additional tension for the lower thread is therefore neither necessary nor desirable.
The needle shield 65 (Figures 41, 42 and 47) is employed for the purpose of
ensuring the proper position of the needle. It consists of a plate bolted to the
bed at the rear edge of the opening through which the trimmed off strip is
removed. At its left hand edge is a slot 66 through which the needle passes.
This shield is designed to prevent the needle ever getting so far into the path
of the hook of the looper as to be caught by it, or so far away from it as not
to catch the loop.
The cuff-guide 70, shown in Figures 38, 39 and 40 is similar in general form to
that heretofore used. Heretofore, however, this guide has had no adjustability.
As shown in the drawings it turns on an eccentric which is attached to the bed
plate A by a screw stud 720, which passes through a slot in the guide 70. This
construction furnishes all the necessary adjustments of the cuff-guide toward and
away from the line of seam. I prefer to provide the face of eccentric 720 with a
series of holes for placing the stop pins 72 to limit the motion of the eccentric in
either direction by contact with the part 73 so that the desired change from one
extreme to the other can be quickly and readily made. This construction, or some
equivalent thereof, we find desirable for the reason that some motion is required to
change quickly from thin to thick work when a different depth of the hold of the
stitch in the cuff becomes necessary.
The form of throat plate 77 is clearly shown in Figure 52 and needs no
description.
I have described what is regarded as the best embodiment of the invention. It
will be understood however that modifications may be made in some of the parts or
combinations of parts, and that some of the parts or combinations may be used
without others, without in either case departing from the nature of the invention.
Figures 70, 71 and 72 illustrate in elevation from different sides, the form of needle
specially devised for use in the machines herein described. Its blade a* on the front
side or side adjacent to the looper when both are above the cloth recessed or cut
away at above the eye. This recess permits the looper to pass the needle on its
(the looper's) return movement, without being diverted from its normal plane of
movement.
The improved needle is further furnished with a groove on the opposite side
of the blade above the eye, and with a short groove ex on the same side extending
from the eye into the point, the object being to reduce to a minimum the friction
on the thread as it is drawn up and down through the work.
The looper is constructed and operates as already described. The relative posi-
tions of the needle and looper at the moment when the needle descends between
the looper and thread is shown in Figure 65, the looper having reached the end of

page_text: its movement to the left. In its return movement, the needle being down, the
looper would come in contact with it if the needle were of ordinary construction.
To avoid this the blade a of the needle is, on the front side (Figure 70) cut away,
forming a recess or depression * above the eye. Thus the looper clears the needle
on its return movement.
On the same side the needle has the usual long thread groove ex, leading to the
eye. It has also a similar groove d*, on the back of the blade, the object being to
permit the thread to move freely between the goods and the needle when the latter
is beneath the cloth. On this side (the rear) the needle has also a short groove ex
leading from the eye towards the point, so that the thread passes freely through
the eye,
and out through the groove ex downwards towards the cloth.
thread runs in this groove ex, and is shielded thereby from friction, while the part
of the needle below the eye is passing through the cloth on its ascending
movement.
The
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of this inven-
tion and in what manner the same is to be performed 1 declare that what I
claim is :-
1. The construction and arrangement of the looper having two jaws and
oscillating around the edge of the work so as to form in conjunction with the needle,
an overedge stitch, substantially as and in the manner set forth.
2. The construction and arrangement of the looper having two jaws, and having
all its movements in a single plane, in combination with a needle which punctures
the cloth in a line oblique to the looper's plane of movement, substantially as shown
and described.
3. The construction and arrangement of the looper having an upper hooked jaw,
and a lower jaw provided with a groove inclined to the plane in which the needle
moves, substantially as and for the purpose set forth..
4. The combination with the looper constructed as set forth, of the mechanism
for oscillating the same in a curved path around the edge of the work, substantially
as described.
5. The combination of the presser foot and the shear blade with mechanism for
adjusting both presser-foot and shear blade simultaneously in a direction transverse
to the line of sewing, substantially as described.
6. The combination of the adjustable upper-shear blade, the lower shear blade,
an adjustable carriage therefor, and a spring pressing the lower blade towards the
upper blade, substantially as described.
7. The particular construction of the tripping cam and lever for automatically
releasing the presser-foot when the main shaft revolves, substantially as shown and
set forth.
8. The combination with the upper shear-blade and the presser-foot having a
recess on its underside, of a lower shear blade adapted to enter the said recess and
clamp the cloth against the presser-foot, substantially as described.
9. The construction of the presser-foot when hinged to its support at a point in
front of the needle, substantially as described.
10. The combination of the presser-foot hinged to its support as described, so
that it can tilt in either direction, and a spring adapted to hold the foot horizontal
while permitting it to tilt, as set forth.
11. The presser-foot hinged to its support so as to tilt in either direction, and
combined with a spring attached at one end to the foot and at the other bearing
on the said support, as shown and described.
12. The upper movable shear blade provided with a clearer constructed as and
for the purpose set forth.
13. The general construction and arrangement of parts constituting an organized
machine for the formation of an overedge seam with a single thread, substantially
as described and as illustrated in Figures 1 to 37 inclusive, of the accompanying
drawings.

page_text: 14. The construction of the looper for making a double thread overedge stitch,
the said looper having an upper hooked jaw and a lower eye-pointed jaw, sub-
stantially as described.
15. The combination of the needle, the take-up for the upper thread, the looper
having in one of its jaws an eye for a lower thread, and a take-up for drawing up
the lower thread and setting the stitch, substantially as described.
16. The particular construction of the take-up mechanism for the upper thread
consisting of the oscillating arm and the thread-pins arranged and operating as
described so that the pins catch the thread when the needle enters the cloth, and
the drawing up of the stitch is completed by the needle, as set forth.
17. The take-up mechanism comprising an oscillating arm, a post and thread-
pins all arranged and operating in conjunction with the needle, substantially as
described.
18. The combination of the needle, the oscillating take-up arm movable
independently of the needle arm, the thread pins, and the take-up post provided
with a detent, and ail constructed and operating, substantially as described.
19. The combination with devices for forming overedge stitches, the two feed
surfaces so constructed and arranged that the surface in front of the needle moves
faster or through a greater distance than that in the rear thereof, as set forth.
20. The combination of a feed-rocker and two feed-bars attached to said feed-
rocker at different distances from the centre of oscillation thereof, as and for the
purpose set forth.
21. The combination of the feed-rocker and feed bars as set forth in the last
preceding claim, when the said feed-rocker is adjustable to oscillate through a
longer or shorter arc, as set forth.
22. The upper and lower shear-blades movable towards and away from the
needle, and combined with means whereby both blades may be moved without.
interrupting the operation of the machine, substantially as described.
23. The shear blade combined with a presser-foot, and combined also with
means whereby both of the said blades and the said presser-foot can be moved
towards and away from the needle while the machine is in operation, substantially
as described.
24. In combination with the devices specified in the last preceding claim, the
adjusting nut and its stop-pins, as described.
25. The combination with the movable shear-blade of the shoe constructed as
described and supporting the said blade both above and beneath the cutting edge,
as set forth.
26. The combination of the movable blade and the shoe movable therewith and
having a deflecting face, substantially as described.
27. The described tension apparatus, consisting of the two loosely mounted
washers, so constructed and combined with a spring that the drawing of thread
between the said washers causes them to revolve, as and for the purpose set forth.
28. The described tension apparatus consisting of two loosely mounted washers,
one of which has a raised central portion provided with openings for the escape
of lint, the said washers being so constructed and combined with a tension spring
that the drawing of the thread between them causes the washers to revolve,
substantially as described.
29. The cuff-guide and its adjusting eccentric constructed and arranged as
described and illustrated in the accompanying drawings.
30. The presser-foot notched at its rear edge to form a thread cutter, as
described.
31. The general construction and arrangement of devices constituting an
organized machine for forming a double thread overedge seam, substantially as
described, and as illustrated in Figures 38 to 69 inclusive, of the accompanying
drawings.
32. The sewing machine needle having a long thread groove, and being
recessed or cut away above the eye on the side having the said long groove.

page_text: 33. The sewing machine needle constructed as described and as shown in
Figures 70, 71 and 72 of the accompanying drawings.
Dated this 5th day of April 1892.
J. H. JOHNSON & Co.,
Agents.