CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY FOR THE PRODUCTION OF ORNAMENTAL STITCHING OR EMBROIDERY
Year: 1862

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Marc Antoine François Mennons, of the British and
Foreign Patent Offices, 39, Rue de l'Echiquier, Paris, in the Empire
of France, for the Invention of "CERTAIN IMPROVEMENTS IN MACHINERY
FOR THE PRODUCTION OF ORNAMENTAL STITCHING OR EMBROIDERY."-A com-
munication from Paul Nicolas Legris, residing at Jallaucourt, Canton of
Delme, (Dept. de la Meurthe,) in France.
Sealed the 11th July 1862, and dated the 24th March 1862.
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION filed by the said Marc Antoine François
Mennons at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition
and Declaration, on the 24th March 1862, pursuant to the 9th Section
of the Patent Law Amendment Act, 1852.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, MARC
ANTOINE FRANÇOIS MENNONS, of the British and Foreign. Patent Offices,
39, Rue de l'Echiquier, Paris, in the Empire of France, send greeting.
WHEREAS I am in possession of an Invention for "CERTAIN IMPROVE-
MENTS IN MACHINERY FOR THE PRODUCTION OF ORNAMENTAL STITCHING OR
EMBROIDERY," communicated to me by Paul Nicolas Legris,. a person resident
at Jallaucourt, Canton of Delme, (Dept. de la Meurthe,) in France, and have
petitioned Her Majesty to grant unto me, my executors, administrators, and
assigns, Her Royal Letters Patent for the same, and made solemn Decla
ration that it is a communication.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Marc Antoine François Mennons, do
hereby declare that the following Complete Specification, under my hand

page_text: and seal, fully describes and ascertains the nature of the Invention, and the
manner in which the same is to be performed, reference being had to the
Figures of the annexed Drawing, and to the letters marked thereon, that
is to say:-
This Invention relates to certain improvements in the construction of
stitching or embroidering machinery, by means of which such machinery is
rendered more applicable than at present to the production of varied orna-
mental effects, and may if so required be converted into apparatus for ordinary
sewing purposes.
Figure 1 of the annexed Drawing represents in elevation a side view of the
complete combination; Figure 2 is a front elevation of the same; Figure 3 is
a plan of the framework; Figure 4 is a plan of the branches or large sides of
the parallelogram. These four Figures are drawn to a scale of one-fifth.
Figure 5. is a front elevation of the stitching or embroidering mechanism ;
Figure 6 is a side elevation of the same; Figures 7, 8, represent in, hori-
zontal section the transmission of the movement of progression on the table of
the machine; Figure 9 is a plan of the gearing bar; Figure 10 represents in
elevation the details of the equilibrium counterpoise by which the motion is
regulated. These six Figures (from 5 to 10 inclusively) are drawn to
full size.
Framework. Figs. 1, 2, 3, 4. A, A', A", A, frame with three supports,
cast in one piece, and composed of, 1stly, the sole plate A; 2dly, the front
support A¹; on one side of which bears the shaft of the fly wheel; 3dly, the
central support A", on which are borne together the shaft of the fly wheel and
that of the vertical beam; 4thly, the hind support A, bearing on one side
the shaft of the vertical beam. a is a pedal set on the axle a', and giving
motion to the connecting rod a¹¹. a is a counter pedal, fixed only on the
axle a B, fly wheel; B', driving wheel, carrying the cord To; b, shaft of
the fly and driving wheel; b, crank; To, driving cord, by which the motion
of the wheel B is transmitted to the commanding pulley; C, pendulum;
C¹, counterpoise; and C", shaft of the vertical beam; D; upper part of the
same; D', socket by which this beam (C, D), is connected with the suspension
piece E; D, strengthening bar of the beam; e, E, e, suspension piece or
rotula bearer, hung on one side by an arbor traversing the socket D', and on
the other by the joint bar v, v; e," talon" of the suspension piece, on which
bears the pivot end of the rotula F; el, cap of the same, provided with a
bearer, on which the rotula is set; F, rotula, forming one of the small sides of
the horizontal parallelogram; F, head of the same, 'carrying the bar g°;
f; f, rollers or return pullies of the driving cord. These pullies revolve freely

page_text: in opposite directions on the same axle, which is borne by the lower branch g¹
of the parallelogram, and by a bracket G, forming tenant, and fixed on the
same branch; g, g¹, branches forming the large sides of the parallelogram,
articulated on one hand to the rotula, and on the other to the support of the:
stitching mechanism. The upper branch 9 is double, and hinged to the
arbor go, which is supported by the head. F¹ of the rotula. u, u¹, tie rods,
forming the large sides of the vertical parallelogram; v, v, junction bar,:
carrying the suspension piece, and forming one of the small sides of the
vertical parallelogram; v¹, v¹, arms cast with the frame pillar A2, and forming
the fixed side of the vertical parallelogram; V", junction bar connecting the
central pillar of the framework with the support on which are mounted the
tissue V and the progression table V.
Stitching or embroidering mechanism.-Figures 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10. gl, glll.
are the coupling screws, by which the stitching mechanism is secured to the
branches g, g, of the framework; H, support of the stitching mechanism
forming one of the small sides of the parallelogram. This support is hinged
to the branches g, g', and carries the stitching apparatus in the two. bearings.
H, H h is a frame carrying the needles, with their guide bars, and
revolving round the helical cam i, i; h¹, upper socket of this frame, traversed
by the shaft I of the cam; h", lower socket of the same, also traversed by the
shaft of the cam; I, central shaft, on which are set the cam i, i, the counter-
action pulley, and the centre-bit. ("vilebréquin") ; i, i, cam with a
helical gorge, in which run the rollers of the needles in the rotatory movement
of the frame h; 2, pinion set on the socket h of the frame h; and communi-
cating the movement to the progression arbor j.; ", wheel pinion of the
progression arbor; 2, grooved pulley on which passes the counteraction cord
("corde de contre-entrainement "). This pulley is, like the centre bit ¹, set
on the shaft I, with which if desired it may form one piece; j³, centre bit, set
as above stated on the shaft I, forming a sheath round the progression arbor j
and terminated by the bearer of the progression wheel and castor; j", cheek
of the bearer; j, endless screw wheel, carrying the castor along the table;
, endless screw, mounted on the progression arbor, and giving motion to
the wheel 111, progression castor determining by adherence the move-
ment of the apparatus on the table; V, progression table; W, steering. or
guide bar; L, driving pulley, set in motion by the wheel B', Figs. 1, 2, and.
the driving cord To. This pulley, which is free on the socket h, of the
frame h, may be thrown into gear at will; by aid of a lock L" and check
bar L';, gearing of the driving pulley working on an axle ; M; roller.
settings, in which are mounted the needles and slide bars m³ and.m; M',

page_text: conical rollers running in the helical, gorge of the cam, and giving motion to
the settings M; M", slide bar guides fixed to the frame h; M, needle
guides, also fixed to the frame h; P, lunette bearing from beneath against the
tissue V¹, Fig. 1; p, bobbin bracket; p¹, bobbins; R, R, (Fig. 10,) bar
screwed to the upper cross piece of the frame h, and carrying the sliding
counterpoises. r, r¹, which are fixed in any required position by the pressure
screws Q, Q. The,object of these counterpoises is to maintain the equilibrium.
of the frame h, with its accompanying mechanism, and thus to regularise its,
rotation; V¹, fabric to be worked, stretched in a frame or between two trestle
bars; V, progression table.
Movement of the stitching mechanism.-The tissue remains stationary,
while the stitching apparatus moves freely over the horizontal table V.
Motor. The machinery actuated by the pedals, the connecting rod, and the
crank, transmits. the movement to the pulley L of the stitching. mechanism by.
the endless cord To proceeding from the driving wheel B', in passing over the
two grooved wheels f. f, set on the angle of articulation.
Range of the mechanism.-The combination above described throws into
play the different elements of the stitching apparatus, which is left free on the
progression table over which it moves mechanically, so that the operator has
only to guide it by the steering bar W along the track to be followed by the
design. The progression of the needles in the tissue and the movement of the
castor on the table are effected conjointly.
Range and motion of the needles.-The commanding pulley of the appa-
ratus being thrown into gear and set in movement by the endless cord,
produces the rotatory motion of the frame h, with the needles m³ and the
roller settings M. The shaft of the cam being held either mechanically or by
the hand, the rollers revolving in the helical gorge ascend and descend succes-
sively and alternately, thus causing the needles to pass into and then recede,
from the tissue.
:. Progression.―The needles also progress in revolving round the cam. At
each half revolution of the frame and without change in the working plane.
the hind needle is carried to the front, and so on alternately.
Motion of the castor on the progression table.-The socket 1 of the;
frame h transmits its rotatory movement by means of pinions and an endless-
screw to the castor, which in running over the table determines, by the
adherence resulting from the dead weight, the progressive motion of the entire
stitching apparatus. The castor on the table and the needles under the
tissue thus follow up in horizontal progression the same line of movement.
Retreat and retention of the threads.-The retreat or withdrawal of the

page_text: passive threads is effected by the alternate back pull of the bobbins produced
by the friction of their tension nuts. These bobbins being placed end to end
on the same spindle and revolving in opposite directions to each other, it is
evident that when the right-hand needle takes the thread of the corresponding
bobbin, the latter in exerting a strain on its fellow must stretch the thread of
the left-hand needle, and thus aid the closing on the loop of the stitch formed
by it. If so desired, the retreat motion may be regularised by the addition of
an intermediate pulley with double grooves, which lead each thread separately
from the bobbin to its needle. The needles in taking up alternately the loop.
required for the production of the stitch, form in themselves the system of
retention of the active threads.
Unequal range of the needles.-The helical gorge of the cam is so
formed as to divide unequally the range of the respective needles, so that:
the length of stroke through the tissue is inferior to that beneath. By this
means a sufficiency of thread is reeled off in the under stroke to supply the
stitch on the wrong side and the passage of the needle in the tissue. The pro-
portion between the two ranges, as also the form of the helical gorge, may,
however, be varied at will.
Length of stitch. -The degree of elevation of the lunette P determines the
degree of separation of the needles on their passage into the tissue, and con-
sequently the length of the stitch produced.
Form of the needles. Each needle is grooved on both sides, and threaded
at foot and point. It may either be straight or have its point slightly curved
off from the loop to be taken up, and hollowed under the latter in the line of.
passage of its twin needle. These details may, however, be more or less varied
according to the work to be performed.
Back-action counterpoise.-The rotation of the frame h with its appendages
round the helical cam can only produce the ascending and descending action
of the rollers and needles so long as the cam itself remains stationary. The
shaft I is therefore held by the fingers of the operator pressing on the centre
bit and steering bar W. If desired to obtain the free control of the move-
ment with as little fatigue on the one side as on the other, a counterpoise may
be added, the action of which, transmitted by means of a cord passed over the
gorge pulley, will balance the effort required for the retention of the frame..
In all cases the frictions and resistances in the apparatus should be reduced as.
far as possible..
.
Equilibrium counterpoises.-The rotation of the frame is regulated and the
centrifugal forces to which it gives rise maintained in equilibrium by means of
the counterpoises r, ³, set on the bar R, R, and fixed by means of
pressure

page_text: screws, at such a distance from the centre as may be required by the speed of
the movement and the charge of the bobbins.
MODUS OPERANDI.
The stitching apparatus, constructed as above, is mounted before the operator,
as seen in the Drawing, between the progression table V and tissue V¹, on
a bench connected with the main framework by the junction bar V". In this
position the tissue presses on. the lunette P, while the castor bears on the
table. The lunette being set to the starting point and the ends of the threads
brought forward, the operator sets the pedal in motion, and with one hand on
the steering bar W directs the needles along the traced design, while the other
hand remains free to act as required on the gearing rod. The position
acquired is indicated by the slight circular rise in the tissue caused by the
pressure of the lunette from beneath, and the direction to be taken by the
needles is determined according to the design by the manipulation of the
steering bar.
The stitching apparatus thus works, so to speak, automatically, the one
simple operation of guiding on the track to be followed up, being alone
requisite. Each needle comes forward regularly and noiselessly from back to
front, taking up in its turn the loop formed by its fellow, and the embroidery
grows as it were over the tissue in the continuous movement of the machine,
which may be thrown out of and into gear at will by aid of the rod l, without
suspending the action of the motor. When the limits of the progression table no
longer permit the range of the stitching apparatus the latter is returned to its
starting point, the frame on which the tissue is stretched being at the same carried
back to such a distance as may be required to continue the work as before. On the
right side the stitch produced by the apparatus arranged as above forms a double
thread, chain, or crotchet, thus as. On the wrong side it
presents the appearance of a "torsade," thus
.
Figures 11, 12, 13, represent a modification of the mechanism above described,
producing a serrated or zig-zag stitch, thus,
Figure 11, is a front elevation of the embroidering apparatus; Figure 12 is
a side elevation of the same, in which the front, branch of the support is
removed to open the view to the remainder of the mechanism. This branch
is shewn apart in Figure 13. All these Figures are drawn to full size.
g", g, are the pressure screws, by means of which the stitching apparatus is
fixed to the branches of a framework of similar construction to that represented
in Figures 1, 2. H, support of the stitching apparatus; H', upper bearing,
in which is fixed the socket H; H", lower bearing, through which pass

page_text: freely the arbor I and the socket I'; H¹, socket fixed in the support H, and
round which revolves the frame h, as also, (at the interior,) the socket I' of
the cam; h, frame, carrying the needles and their accessories h' bearing, by
which the arbor I is fixed on the frame h; h", bearing revolving with the
frame h on the socket H; h, rod prolonged from the frame h, carrying the
axle of the beam 0, 0, and receiving the sliding lunette P; I, central shaft,
on which are fixed the frame h, the pinion ¹, and the centre bit ¹; I, steel
socket, carrying the helical gorge cam i; i, pinion, commanding the progres-
sion arbor j;, pinion wheel of the progression arbor j; j¹ centre bit, set
on the shaft I, forming socket round the progression arbor, and terminated
by the frame of the progression wheel and castor; ", cheek of this frame;
,, wheel and endless screw; 111, progression castor; V, progression
platform; L driving pulley of the stitching mechanism; L', L", check bar
and tock of the same; 1, P, gearing bar with its axle. The driving pulley
on being thrown into gear gives a rotatory motion to the steel socket I',
and consequently to the cam mounted upon it. The frame which carries
the needle mechanism, is set on the central shaft I, and turns with the pro-
gression castor by the medium of the centre bit 11; M roller settings moving in
the guides M", and on the slide bars m. These settings are articulated with
the needle bars' m²; M¹ conical, rollers working in the helical gorge of the
M", guides of the roller settings screwed to the frame h; m slide bars,
fixed by the two extremities to the frame h; m³, m, needle bars and. screw
collars; M slides of the needle bars hinged to the settings O¹; m¹¹¹ small
push pieces fixed to the roller settings; 0, 0, beam, oscillating round a
horizontal axle, carried by the rod h¹ of the frame h, and set in motion by
the push pieces m. By these push pieces a vertical oscillation in one and
other direction is imparted to the beam O, which meeting the slide bearer O',
imparts to it in its turn an oscillating movement, which produces the "haunch”
action of the needles. 0¹ settings of the needle bar slides, oscillating round
the prolongation of the shaft I; P, lunette, bearing against the tissue from
beneath; U, pierced plate, screwed to the face of the horizontal beam, and
serving for the retreat of the passive threads; W steering bar. The mechanism
being mounted on a frame, similar to that already described, the driving
pulley L, acted on by the endless cord, imparts the rotatory motion to the
central shaft I, the helical cam i, and its pinion . At each revolution of the
shaft the needle bars m' ascend, and descend under the action of the cam on
the rollers M, thus causing the needles alternately to pass into and withdraw
from the tissue, set on the stretching frame above. Simultaneously with the
ascent and descent of the needles, the push pieces m¹ of the roller settings
cam.

page_text: repel from below the opposite branches of the intermediate beam O, and the
oscillations resulting from the successive strokes thus applied, are transmitted
as lateral oscillations to the slide settings O'. The slight "haunch" motion
thus produced in causing one of the needles to advance over the other, suffices
for the progression of the work on the tissue. The progression of the castor
, on the table V, is obtained by the rotation of the cam socket I', trans-
initted through the pinions i, i", and endless screw j. During the movement
of the apparatus, the castor follows on the table the same horizontal progress
as the needles under the tissue. The breadth of the stitch produced depends
on the degree of separation of the needles resulting from the greater or less
elevation of the lunette P. The length of the stitch is dependent on the
rapidity with which the castor moves over the table, and on the corresponding.
oscillation of the needle guides.
The essential difference between the movement of the apparatus represented
in Figures 1 to 6, and that just described is, that in the first the needles
áre actuated by the rotation of the rollers M', round the helical gorge of
a stationary cam, while in the latter, the action is determined by the passage
on the rollers of the gorge of a rotatory cam.
'
In the first case, the progression of the needles is obtained by alternate and
successive semi-revolutions, resulting in the production of a fast chain or
crochet stitch.
In the second the needles progress by lateral oscillations, giving rise to a
zig-zag or serrated stitch as above shewn.
In either case by rendering stationary the stitching mechanism, and
suppressing the progression gear, the apparatus may be converted into a sewing
machine, in which the "feeding" or gradual advance of the tissue is obtained
by the motion of the needles.
Having now described and ascertained the nature of the said improvements,
and the manner in which the same may be carried into effect, I would have it
understood that I do not confine myself to the precise details of construction
and arrangement above laid down, as these may in many respects be modified
without deviating from the principles or main features of the Invention, but
what I claim and desire to protect by Letters Patent, is,-
1stly. The novel combination of mechanism as above described and com-
prised under the letters C¹¹, D, D¹ E, e, e¹, F, G, g, g¹, u, u', v, v¹, Figures 1,
2, 4, and H, Figures 5, 6, 11, 12, 13, of the annexed Drawing, by means of
which is obtained over an extended range, the free translation of the stitching
mechanism, driven by a stationary motor, without interference with the con-
tinuous action of the latter.

page_text: 2dly. The combination of rollers mounted on a rotatory frame, and
travelling round the helical gorge of a stationary cam, or other arrangement of
analogous nature, as above described and shewn in M¹; M, m, m', i, h,
Figures 5, 6, by means of which is obtained the knitting action of the needles
and their progression by alternate and successive semi-revolutions, resulting
in the production of a fast crochet or chain stitch.
3dly. The combination of rollers mounted on a revolving frame, and
working in the helical gorge of a rotatory cam or other analogous arrangement,
as above described and shewn in M', M, M, m, m³, i, h, Figures 11, 12, by
means of which is determined with the same knitting action of the needles
their progression by lateral oscillations, giving rise to a serrated or zig-zag
stitch.
4thly. The combination of progression mechanism as above described and com-
prised under the letters h, 2, 1, j, j¹, j", ¹¹, j, jn, Figures 5, 6, 11, 12,
by means of which is obtained the regular advance of the stitching mechanism
over the table V, and the connexity of action between the different parts of
this apparatus.
In witness whereof, I, the said Marc Antoine Francois Mennons,
have hereto set my hand and seal, this Twentieth day of March, in
the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and sixty-two.
ME MENNONS
L
M. F. MENNONS.
Γ.