IMPROVEMENTS IN THE MANUFACTURE AND TREATMENT OR FINISHING OF TEXTILE FABRICS AND MATERIALS AND IN THE MACHINERY OR APPARATUS USED THEREIN
Year: 1852

page_text: TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, JOHN
CAMPBELL, of Bowfield, in the County of Renfrew, North Britain, Bleacher,
send greeting.
WHEREAS Her present most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Royal Letters Patent under the Great Seal of the United Kingdom of Great
Britain, and Ireland, bearing date at Westminster, the Eighth day of May, in
the fifteenth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors,
give and grant unto me, the said John Campbell, Her especial license, full
power, sole privilege and authority, that I, the said John Campbell, my exors,
adiňors, and assigns, and such others as I, the said John Campbell, my exors,
admors, or assigns, should at any time agree with, and no others, from time to
time and at all times during the term of years therein mentioned, should and
lawfully might make, use, exercise, and vend, within England, Wales, and
the Town of Berwick-upon-Tweed, and also in Her Majesty's Islands
of Jersey, Guernsey, Alderney, Sark, and Man, and in all Her Majesty's
Colonies and Plantations abroad, my Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN THE
MANUFACTURE AND TREATMENT OR FINISHING OF TEXTILE FABRICS AND MATERIALS
AND IN THE MACHINERY OR APPARATUS USED THEREIN;" in which said Letters
Patent is contained a proviso, requiring that I, the said John Campbell, by an
instrument in writing under my hand and seal, shall particularly describe and
ascertain the nature of my said Invention, and in what manner the same is to
be performed, and shall cause the same to be inrolled in Her said Majesty's

page_text: Court of High Chancery within six calendar months next and immediately
after the date of the said in part recited Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that in compliance with the said proviso, I, the said
John Campbell, do hereby declare the nature of my Invention, and in what
manner the same is to be performed, to be particularly described and
ascertained in and by this present instrument in writing, as follows, reference
being had to the Drawings hereunto attached and to the letters and figures
marked thereon, that is to say:-
My said Invention relates, first, to various arrangements of machinery,
apparatus, or means for producing what is technically known as the "elastic
finish" on woven fabrics, the warp and weft threads of the goods being worked
angularly over each other to effect the desired end, the main essential feature
of such finishing apparatus being the adaptation of conical rollers or drums in
combination or not with breadtheners or stretchers for effecting the angling
action. Second, to various arrangements or contrivances of breadtheners of
both rotatory and rectilineal actions to be used for obtaining the full width of
the goods. Third, to the improvement of the appearance of woven fabrics by
¡means of a steaming and gradual cooling process.
זי
And in order that my Invention may be properly understood I shall now
proceed to describe the several Figures on the Sheet of Drawings hereunto
attached. Figure 1 on my Sheet of Drawings is a complete side or longitudinal
elevation of my improved finishing machine, as contrived both to angle or
traverse the threads over each other for the finishing or breaking action and
to breadthen or stretch the piece in the direction of its width at the same time.
Figure 2 is a corresponding plan of the machine; Figure 3 is a longitudinal
section of one of the breadtheners on an enlarged scale; and Figure 4 is a
corresponding end elevation of the same, one-half being in transverse section.
It consists of the two long main vertical side standards A, A, cast in pieces
and bolted together and stayed transversely by suitable tie rods to form a long
rectangular frame. This frame carries the whole of the machinery, which
receives its' motion from the horizontal cone pulley B, driven in any convenient
manner, and set upon a shaft having at one end a bevil pinion C gearing with
a corresponding pinion D fast on the long horizontal shaft E. This shaft
extends along the whole length of the machine, and is carried in bracket
bearings F bolted to the upper edge of the main side standards A, and serves
to drive the upper series or line of angling cones by means of the several pairs
of bevil pinions G. The extreme opposite end of this upper shaft E carries a
spior wheel H in gear with a small carrier pinion I, running loose on a stud
fast in the framing, and which pinion again gears with a second spur wheel J,

page_text: fast on the overhanging end of the lower longitudinal shaft R running parallel
with and directly beneath the upper shaft E. This lower shaft. K, like the
upper one, is carried in bracket bearings L bolted to the side' frame, and
actuates the lower series of angling cones by the lower range of bevil pinions,
so that the upper and lower ranges of angling cones together with the
breadtheners act in concert. The arrows indicate the direction of the piece
M during the finishing process. It is entered upon the machine at the end N
and passes from the attendant's platform up beneath the loose guide roller o,
and thence over the upper guide roller P running in end bearings in the top
of the frame. Here it descends beneath a breadthener Q, where it receives
its first breadthening. action. This breadthener revolves on the fixed hori-
zontal shaft R set in the two brackets S, and is driven by the action of the
passing fabric itself. The shaft R has upon it three sets of adjustable collars
T, T, arranged to hold the three loose revolving discs U, V, free of lateral
motion, these discs being each formed with transverse dove-tail grooves on
their periphery to receive the dove-tail strips on the under side of the
breadthening laths W. The longitudinal transverse action of these laths is
effected by means of the fixed inclined discs X, fixed by their central collars
and set screws upon the shaft R. These discs are set at an oblique angle
to the axial line of their shaft, that is to say, the bore through which the
shaft passes is not at right angles with the diametrical plane of the disc,
and they are so fixed upon the shaft that they shall slope outwards in the
direction of the fabrics traverse. Each breadthening lath or bar is in tw
pieces, their central junction as at Y, being formed by a species of scarf or
sliding wedge joint, and the laths are so modified that they present the
greatest frictional stretching or holding surface at their extreme outer ends,
being each tapered gradually towards their opposite ends, where the two halves
meet in the centre of the breadthener. The object of this taper is to propor-
tion the frictional holding surface of the laths to suit the portions of the fabric
on which each increment of the length of the laths is to act.. Thus near the
centre where only a slight portion of the width of the piece has to be stretched
towards each side, a very slight amount of frictional surface is necessary in
comparison with that required near each side, as at the latter parts the laths
have to stretch the whole of the intervening width of the piece. By this plan
the piece is uniformly stretched throughout its width from the centre to each
side, and whatever loss of diameter may arise towards the centre of the
breadthener from the narrowing of the laths, may be compensated for by
causing the inner central ends of the laths to stand up a little higher from the
centre of the shaft than their outer ends. Each of the laths is fitted with

page_text: bracket pieces Z, containing a pair of small pulleys a, which clip the periphery
of the inclined discs one on each side. Thus as the cloth passes upon the
breadthener, its frictional contact carries round the series of laths with their three
groove discs, so that the action of the fixed inclined discs causes the reciprocatory
traverse of the laths along their retaining grooves in the direction of the axial
line of the breadthener, and the fabric being entered upon the breadthener at
that part where the laths are contracted to their shortest length, across the
width of the piece, it follows that as each divided lath passes round it extends
outwards towards the selvages, and stretches the piece correspondingly, the
fabric being passed off the breadthener at or near the greatest extension of the
laths as at the line a, b, In this way the piece is effectually widened, and it
then passes up between the pair of grooved rollers b, set parallel to each other,
and revolving loosely in adjustable bracket bearings bolted to the side stan-
dards. Both rollers are grooved circumferentially at uniform distances apart,
and the two work in close contact, the projections on one entering the grooves
of the other like the teeth of wheels, and as the piece enters between them, it
is nipped or squeezed into an undulating form across its breadth between the
lines of grooved projections. This has the effect of breadthening the piece in
aid of the action of the breadthener by the act of pressing the fabric down into
the series of grooves in each roller. From this duplex grooved breadthener,
the piece passes onwards and descends beneath the second breadthening or
stretching cylinder c, which pulls out the fabric, as already strained, by the
undulations of the grooved rollers, the action of this breadthener being pre-
cisely the same as that of the first one. After this third breadthening action,
the piece again rises and passes over the top of the first angling cone d, and
then descends and passes beneath the second or corresponding lower angling
cone e, by the joint action of which pair of cones the fabric receives its primary
angling effect. These cones are carried on shafts running in end bearings f
the laths or bars forming the periphery of the cone being in each case sup
ported on three metal discs g, h, fast on the revolving shaft. The two outer
discs are capable of adjustment at different distances along the shaft, and are
slotted or notched circumferentially at uniform intervals to form guides for the
ends of the bars j, whilst the central disc h is immoveable, and is also slotted
to receive the central portions of the bars, adjustable nipping centre pins being
fitted to the disc and passed through the laths for the oscillation of the latter
during the adjustment of the angle of the cone. In this way the taper of the
cone or the angle of the circumferential bars may be varied as required by
sliding the end discs along the shaft, when the bars may be firmly held at the
intended angle by adjusting their nipping stud centres, whilst the bars are als

page_text: still supported at a greater or less distance from their extremities by the disc ġ,
These cones may be set at various horizontal angles, or with their axial lines at
various angles with the longitudinal centre line of the passing fabric, but in the
the present instance, the line of delivery of the fabric from the first cone, is
at an exact right angle with the longitudinal centre line of the frame, or the
line of traverse of the piece, so that the shaft or the axial line of the cone is at an
angle considerably oblique to that line of traverse. Hence the piece is received
upon the first cone at an oblique angle, whilst it is delivered evenly to the
second cone, which is an exact counterpart of the first, but set in the reverse
direction. By this arrangement the larger end of the first cone delivers its
edge of the passing fabric to the smaller end of the second cone, and conversely
the cloth from the small end of the first or receiving cone is passed beneath
the larger end of the second or deliverer. The horizontal angle of the axis of
this deliverer is exactly the reverse of that of the receiver, so that it takes the
piece from the receiver at an angle and delivers it evenly from the line k.
The two rollers are driven at the same rate, but in reverse directions, to
suit the traverse of the piece over one and under the other, and the
angling finishing effect, or the working of the weft threads over the warp
threads is produced simply by the reversed, opposed, or conflicting actions
of the two cones, for immediately that the fabric comes in contact with the
first cone, or reaches the line of primary contact it is angled in one direction
by this first cone action. This arises from the effect of each increment of the
increasing circumference of the cone from the smallest to the largest diameter
in drawing forward the fabric at a quicker rate than any minor length of
circumference, or in other words, from the constant drawing forward of that
side of the piece next the largest end of the cone. This necessarily angles the
piece forward on that side, the opposite side of the fabric being held back by
the more sluggish rate of movement of the smallest circumference. In this
singly angled state the fabric passes to the second or reverse cone, so that, the
forward angled side of the piece, from the largest end of the first cone, now
runs over the smallest end of the second cone. Thus immediately after passing
the primary line of contact with the second cone; this second cone action comes
into play to angle the piece in a direction the reverse of the first, and the
angling finishing action is completed by this duplex diagonal pull on the
piece in reverse directions.
If necessary, this duplex cone action may be
repeated again and again by passing the piece over or through a series of pairs
of cones, alternated or not, with breadtheners, or other stretching or angling
apparatus. For example, my Drawings may be supposed to represent only a

page_text: portion of a complete long machine, the remaining portion undelineated being
a mere reduplication of the parts which I have represented. In the present
example in pursuing the course of the fabric as it is finished, it now passes
upwards from the second cone; and over the first 7 of a second pair, again
descending to pass beneath the second m of this pair on the fourth of the series;
this second pair being arranged in the same manner as the first. This of
course repeats the duplex angling action, and the piece' now passes over a
second lath breadthener formed exactly like the two breadtheners c, c. In this
way it receives a further stretching which comes in effectively after the angling
by the cones. This alternated angling and direct breadthening action is con-
tinued onwards throughout the machine. by next passing the fabric between the
two pairs of angling cones n, o, p, q, then beneath the lath breadthener 7, then
between the two pairs of cones s, and over the fifth lath breadthener t. From
this last breadthener the piece'passes down and through the last pair of cones' u,
and finally beneath the final single cone, whence it is delivered over the
loose cylindrical guide receiving roller w revolving in end bearings, one of
which is higher than the other, in order that the fabric may be received evenly
upon it from the last cone surface. This angle of the roller is adjustable in
order that the slack of the fabric on either side may always be taken up and
compensated for. The piece may be dried in its passage by fans, or in any
other convenient manner, so that it passes off from the roller in its dried and
finished condition, being conveyed up to a floor or platform above, by an
arrangement of rollers actuated from the transverse shaft x. This shaft is
driven by the pair of bevil pinions y from the lower main shaft k; the opposite
end of this shaft having upon it an overhanging band pulley z and endless
band 1, from which it passes up round the two guide pulleys 2, 3, and over the
overhead roller 4. The latter roller thus constantly revolves, and by means of
its upper nipping roller 5, draws up the fabric from the roller w round the
guide roller 6, and finally delivers it to the required level above the machine.
Although I have herein-before described the angling cones as being set with
their axes horizontal, and at certain angles as regards the line of traverse of
the piece, I may observe that such shafts may be contrived to revolve at a
greater or less angle with their horizontal line, and also that the angle of the
shafts may be similarly varied as regards the line of traverse of the fabric. I
would also remark, that a somewhat similar angling effect may be produced by
setting plain cylindrical rollers at an angle in fixed adjustable bearings instead
of the cones; I may also remark that the cones or rollers have an increased
and differential effect by arranging each opposed pair or the contiguous cones
of a series with their axes at reverse angles as in my Drawings; for as the

page_text: passing fabric always tends to mount or pass on to the higher end or larger
diameter of cach cone or roller, it follows that the piece will be separately.
angled by being first carried to one side and then to the other of the true line
of traverse of the piece; in other words, this angular adjustment will give the
fabric a species of zig-zag or undulating traverse, so as to assist the finishing
action. And for goods in which a more or less lustrous appearance is required
the series of cones may be driven at differential rates, that is, some of the cones
may revolve at a higher speed than the others, so as to give a certain amount
of rubbing frictional action according to the degree of lustre intended, or the
same effect may be produced by passing the goods over differentially driven
cylinders or rollers. A breadthening, lustreing, and finishing effect may also be
produced by passing the goods over cones or cylinders so contrived, that each
cone or cylinder is in two halves in the breadth of the piece, the joint being in
the centre line of the piece, with the end of one section entered into a recess in
the end of the other. The axes of these two sections are not in the same line
but are set at a greater or less angle with each other horizontally, and each
section is actuated by its own separate gearing by D wheels or other differen-
tial contrivance. During finishing, the sections are driven alternately, one
resting whilst the other moves forward, thus angling and breaking the cloth
from side to side. Another arrangement of breadthener, wherein the stretching
action is by a rectilinear traverse instead of a rotatory action, is dilineated
in Figures 5 and 6 on my Sheet of Drawings. Figure 5 is a side or longi-
tudinal elevation of the breadthener, and Figure 6 is a corresponding ground
plan of the same. It consists of a pair of double endless belts of tapered laths
or rails A, between which the piece is passed horizontally. Each belt is
stretched and carried upon two pairs of pulleys B; the belt and roller
arrangement is thus duplex, one belt with its rollers being made to
work directly over a similar arrangement beneath it, the two contiguous belt
surfaces being parallel to each other, there are thus four belts c altogether, for
which eight separate shafts D are required, the upper and lower details
throughout being exact counterparts of each other. Each opposed shaft of the
upper and lower series is set at a slight angle with its neighbour, in order that
the pairs of belts may gradually widen or expand in their horizontal distance
apart from one end of the machine to the other, the narrow end E being the
5 entering or receiving en:l for the piece to be breadthened, whilst the opposite
wide end is the discharging end. The transverse breadthening bars A are
set at regular intervals asunder, the upper series being jointed or pinned by
one en G to the exterior surface of one of the belts, whilst the opposite ends
of the bars are slotted longitudinally, and passed over guide pins at II in

page_text: the outside of the opposite belt, the two sets of pins being made to correspond
exactly with each other in each belt. The lower belts are similarly fitted with
breadtheners, with this difference that the fixed joints and sliding slots are
reversed, the fixed ends of the bars in the lower series being in correspondence
with the traversing ends of the bars in the upper series. The bars in each
series are tapered on their external projecting surfaces, but in reverse direc-
tions, that is to say, the bars of the upper series all slope one way, as at
I, in reference to the horizontal line, whilst those on the other slope in the
opposite direction, so that when the series come into gear in the. horizontal
line a b, in Figure 5, the whole duplex series is an alternation of thick and thin
ends on each side. As the series of pulleys revolve the under row for the time
being of the upper series of laths comes into contiguity with the upper row for
the time being of the lower series, and these surfaces thus work together like a
duplex feed cloth, the bars on one belt gearing into the spaces on the other.
The piece is fed in horizontally at b, and pursues the path of the arrows, and
whilst it is carried forward by the nip of the two sets of bars, the breadthening
is effected by the reverse traverse of these two sets of bars across the width of the
piece; for as the pairs of belts approach their widest stretch asunder, as from
E to F, it follows that each individual lath in the upper series is successively
traversed laterally outwards, whilst each lath or bar in the lower series tra-
verses in the reverse direction, that is, in reference to the two lines of bars in
working contact. Hence, as the fabric passes through, one set of bars con-
stantly tends to draw out the piece in one direction, and the other in the
reverse, thus stretching the piece in a very efficient manner until it is dis-
charged at a. The object of the sloping or tapered edges of the bars is to
modify the stretching action upon the piece in such way as to effect an equal
tensional stretch along the whole length of the weft threads, the projecting,
wide, or deep ends of the bars being brought into action on each side of the
piece before the opposite tapered narrow ends, as the slope permits the
edges to come only gradually into contact with the piece on entering. This
breadthener may be either combined or not with my cone, or other finishing
machine. A somewhat similar effect may be produced by a belt traversing
beneath the piece, whilst above the latter is a pair of revolving rollers, working
at a slight angle with the warp threads, one roller being near each selvage.
As the belt below traverses along carrying the fabric, the revolution of the
upper rollers, each turning outwards, and pressing the piece on the belt
beneath, causes a constant breadthening pull.
The last head of my improvements relates to the improvement of the
appearance of various woven fabrics by giving them a fuller and better body.

page_text: 5
In heating cotton goods, for example, the pieces of grey cloth are laid on
sparred or open divisions in a close steam chest, and steam of the required
pressure is admitted to the bottom of the chest to act upon the cloth. After
exposure to this steam action for some time, say two hours, more or less, as
the nature of the cloth or the quality of the intended finish may demand, the
pieces of cloth are removed and allowed to cool very gradually in a well venti-
lated room.. By such treatment I effect the swelling of the threads or fibres
of the cloth so as to give it a full and substantial appearance. To obtain the
full value of this process it is preferred that an additional quantity of dressing
should be used in the earlier stages of the manufacture of the goods.
my Inven-
Having now described and particularly ascertained the nature of
tion, and the manner in which the same is or may be used or carried into
effect, I may observe in conclusion that I do not confine or restrict myself to
the precise details or arrangements which I have had occasion to describe or
refer to, as many variations may be made therefrom without deviating from
the principles or main features of my Invention; but what I consider to be
novel and original, and therefore claim as the Invention secured to me by the
herein-before in part recited Letters Patent, is-
First, the general arrangement and construction of the machinery, apparatus,
or means for the manufacture or treatment of textile fabrics, as herein-before
described.
Second, the application and use of my revolving breadthener for stretching
piece goods, as more especially described in reference to Figures 3 and 4 on
my Sheet of Drawings.
Third, the system or mode of constructing breadtheners with tapering or
sloping laths or bars, as herein-before described.
Fourth, the system or mode of constructing rotatory breadtheners wherein
the longitudinal traverse of the breadthening bars is effected by means of fixed
oblique discs and revolving guide discs, as described in reference to Figures
3 and 4.
Fifth, the system or mode of angling or finishing woven fabrics by means
of opposed or reverse cone rollers.
Sixth, the application and use of conical rollers for angling or working the
warp and weft threads of piece goods.
Seventh, the system or mode of angling or finishing piece goods by means
of the combination or alternation of breadtheners and conical rollers.
Eighth, the system or mode of adjusting the angle or taper of conical
rollers for the production of a greater or less angling effect, as herein-before
described.

page_text: Ninth, the system or mode of breadthening piece goods by means of ex-
panding belts and transverse traversing laths, as herein-before described in
reference to Figures.5 and 6, or by rollers working at an angle with the line of
warp threads.
Tenth, the system or mode of constructing breadtheners with stretching
bars having a combined forwards and expanding traverse, and pressing or
acting on reverse sides of the fabric.
Eleventh, the system or mode of traversing the breadthening bars longitu-
dinally across the breadth of the fabric in reverse directions, as herein-before
described.
Twelfth, the system or mode of treating textile fabrics with steam, as
herein-before described.
Thirteenth, the application and use of the combined steam and cooling
process for improving the quality or appearance of piece goods.
In witness whereof, I, the said John Campbell, have hereunto set my
hand and seal, the Sixth day of November, in the year of our Lord
One thousand eight hundred and fifty-two.