IMPROVEMENTS IN ORNAMENTING OR PRODUCING PATTERNS OR DESIGNS OF VARIOUS KINDS ON FABRICS, AND IN THE APPARATUS TO BE USED FOR SUCH PURPOSES
Year: 1875

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to Henry Edward Newton, of the Office for Patents,
66, Chancery Lane, in the County of Middlesex, Civil Engineer,
for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN ORNAMENTING OR PRODUCING
PATTERNS OR DESIGNS OF VARIOUS KINDS ON FABRICS, AND IN THE
APPARATUS TO BE USED FOR SUCH PURPOSES." -A communication from
abroad by Pierre Nos D'Argence, of Paris, in the Republic of
France and Francois Delamare of Paris ofanasaid
Scaled the 6th December 1875, and dated the 12th June 1875.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said Henry Edward Newton
at the Office of the Commissioners of Patents, with his Petition,
on the 12th June 1875.
I, HENRY EDWARD NEWTON, of the Office for Patents, 66, Chancery
Lane, in the County of Middlesex, Civil Engineer, do hereby declare
the nature of the said Invention for "IMPROVEMENTS IN ORNAMENTING
OR PRODUCING PATTERNS OR DESIGNS OF VARIOUS KINDS ON FABRICS, AND IN THE
APPARATUS TO BE USED FOR SUCH PURPOSES," to be as follows:-
The object of this Invention is to produce ornamental patterns or
designs of various kinds on fabrics, on which a raised pile, such as a

page_text: velvet pile or plush can be formed by drawing out the fibres by brushing
or carding, as in dressing cloth; this object may be effected in various
ways; in one arrangement the cloth to be operated upon is passed
between a pair of rollers or cylinders, the upper one of which is hollow,
and a pattern is cut out on its surface like the pattern on a stencil
plate. The other roller or cylinder has a plain surface, but is covered
with felt, rubber, plush, or some other material that will hold the fabric
and prevent it from slipping. Inside the perforated or pattern roller is
a long segmental brush, to which a vibrating motion is imparted by
suitable gearing. This brush may be made of teazles, wiro cards,
bristles, or other material which will take hold of the fibres of the cloth
to be operated upon. As the cloth is drawn slowly through the machine
the bristles or cards of the brush (which is kept constantly in motion)
will pass through the perforations of the pattern cylinder and will
draw out the fibres from the cloth at all places where they can reach it.
The consequence will be that a pattern in plush or raised pile will be
formed on the cloth; or the ornamental pattern may consist of those
parts which remain untouched by the brushes.
By the process just described the cloth under operation is conducted
slowly but uninterruptedly through the machine until the whole length
of the picce has been operated upon, but as a modification the cloth may
be moved forward intermittently over a fixed flat plate, on which is
formed a pattern in relicf. The cloth is held tightly down on this
pattern plate and is rubbed with a vibrating or reciprocating flat brush,
card, or roughened surface, the effect of which will be that the fibres
will be drawn out or brushed up at all those parts of the cloth which
are immediately above the raised pattern.
When the pile of the part under operation has been raised sufficiently
the cloth may be moved forward the length of the pattern, and a fresh
portion of the fabric will be brought under operation.
Stripes may be produced on the fabric by passing it under a flat
perforated plate in which straight slits are cut. The brush, which in
this case must be flat, should have an endway reciprocating motion
communicated to it while the fabric is travelling forward under the
perforated plate. In this way any number of continuous stripes may be

page_text: If desired those parts of the fabric which in any of the above cases
have not been effected by the brushes may be ornamented by printing
in the usual manner.
Transverse stripes may be produced by means of an engraved roller
working on the cloth, which is supported on a concave or curved bed or
table.
Other arrangements may be devised, but they will all be based upon
the principle of a roughened rubbing surface being made to act on and
draw out the fibres from those parts of the surface of the cloth which
are not protected by perforated plates, or which by means of raised
patterns are brought more forcibly in contact with the rubbing
surfaces.
SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent,
filed by the said Henry Edward Newton in the Great Seal Patent
Office on the 11th December 1875.
TO ALL TO WHOM THESE PRESENTS SHALL COME, I, HENRY
EDWARD NEWTON, of the Office for Patents, 66, Chancery Lanc, in the
County of Middlesex, Civil Engineer, send greeting.
WHEREAS Her most Excellent Majesty Queen Victoria, by Her
Letters Patent, bearing date the Twelfth day of June, in the year of
our Lord One thousand eight hundred and seventy-five, in the thirty-
cighth year of Her reign, did, for Herself, Her heirs and successors,
give and grant unto me, the said Henry Edward Newton, Her special
licenco that I, the said Henry Edward Newton, my executors, admi-
nistrators, and assigns, or such others as I, the said Henry Edward
Newton, my executors, administrators, and assigns, should at any time
agree with, and no others, from time to time and at all times there-
after during the term therein expressed, should and lawfully might
make, use, exercise, and vend, within the United Kingdom of Great
Britain and Ireland, the Channel Islands, and Isle of Man, an Inven-
tion for "IMPROVEMENTS IN ORNAMENTING OR PRODUCING PATTERNS OR DESIGNS
OF VARIOUS KINDS ON FABRICS, AND IN THE APPARATUS TO BE USED FOR SUCH
PURPOSES," being a communication to me from abroad by Pierre Nos
D'Argence, of Paris, in the Republic of France, upon the condition

page_text: (amongst others) that I, the said Henry Edward Newton, my executors
or administrators, by an instrument in writing under my, or their, or
one of their hands and seals, should particularly describe and ascertain
the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner the same was
to be performed, and cause the same to be filed in the Great Seal
Patent Office within six calendar months next and immediately after
the date of the said Letters Patent.
NOW KNOW YE, that I, the said Henry Edward Newton, do
hereby declare the nature of the said Invention, and in what manner
the samo is to be performed, to be particularly described and ascertained
in and by the following statement, reference being had to the Drawing
hereunto annexed, and to the letters and figures marked thereon (that
is to say) :-
The object of this Invention is to produce ornamental patterns or
designs of various kinds on fabrics, on which a raised pile, such as a
velvet pile or plush can be formed by drawing out the fibres by brushing
or carding, as in dressing cloth; this object may be effected in various
ways; in one arrangement the cloth to be operated upon is passed
between a pair of rollers or cylinders, the upper one of which is hollow,
and a pattern is cut out on its surface like the pattern in a stencil
plate. The other roller or cylinder has a plain surface, but is covered
with felt, rubber, plush, or some other material that will hold the fabric
to be operated upon and prevent it from slipping. Inside the perforated
or pattern roller is placed a long segmental brush, to which a vibrating
or reciprocating motion is imparted by suitable gearing. This brush
may be made of teasles, wire cards, bristles, or other material which will
take hold of the fibres of the cloth to be operated upon. As the cloth
is drawn slowly through the machine by the rotation of the cylinders or
rollers with which it is in contact the bristles or cards of the brush
(which is kept constantly in motion) will pass through the perforations
of the pattern cylinder, and will draw out the fibres from the cloth at
all places where they can reach it. The consequence will be that a
pattern in plush or raised pile will be found on the cloth; or the
ornamental pattern may consist of those parts which remain untouched
by the brushes.
By the process just described the cloth under operation is conducted
slowly but uninterruptedly through the machine until the whole length

page_text: of the plece has been operated upon, but as a modification the cloth may
be moved forward intermittently over a fixed flat plate, on which is
formed a pattern in relief. The cloth is held tightly down on this
pattern plate and is rubbed with a vibrating or reciprocating flat brush,
card, or roughened surface, the effect of which will be that the fibres
will be drawn out or brushed up at all those parts of the cloth which
are immediately above the raised pattern.
When the pile of the part under operation has been raised sufficiently
the cloth may be moved forward the length of the pattern, and a fresh
portion of the fabric will be brought under operation.
Stripes may be produced on the fabric by passing it under a flat
perforated plate in which straight slits are cut. The brush, which in
this case must be flat, should have an endway reciprocating motion
communicated to it while the fabric is travelling forward under the
perforated plate. In this way any number of continuous stripes may be
produced on the cloth.
If desired those parts of the fabric which (in any of the above cases)
have not been affected by the brushes may be ornamented by printing
in the usual manner.
Transverse stripes may be produced by means of an engraved roller
working on the cloth, which is supported on a concave or curved bed or
table.
Other arrangements may be devised, but they will all be based upon
the principle of a roughened rubbing surface being made to act on and
draw out the fibres from those parts of the surface of the cloth which
are not protected by perforated plates, or which by means of raised
patterns are brought more forcibly in contact with the rubbing
surfaces.
In the accompanying Drawing, Fig. 1 is a front elevation of a
machine for producing patterns in the manner above mentioned; Fig. 2
is a side elevation of the same; Fig. 3 is a plan view corresponding to
Fig. 1.
Fig. 4 is an end view; and Fig. 5 a side view of the brush which is
placed inside the cylinder, which is perforated with the pattern it is
intended to produce upon the fabric.

page_text: མས མ7%་༔;"
modification of the machine shewn at Figures 1, 2, and 3; Figures 8
and 9 are edge and plan views of a flat plate with a raised pattern
thereon.
A is a roller covered with felt, plush, rubber, or other analogous
substance, and mounted so as to turn freely in the bearings G below the
roller or cylinder B, which carries the pattern that is intended to be
produced on the fabric, and which roller or cylinder rests upon the
roller A. In the ends or checks B' of the cylinder B grooves are made
to receive the small antifriction rollers E, E', E². The brush C, shewn
detached at Figures 4 and 5, is placed inside the cylinder B, and its
ends or journals are mounted in the bearings F. D, D', D², arc trans-
verse bars for maintaining or supporting in place the upper standards Y',
and upon which are mounted the small rollers E, E', E, which support
the cylinder B. The piece of fabric to be operated upon passes over the
roller H, the rotation of which is governed by the friction pulley I
and brake J, which is regulated by the hand wheel K and strap L
attached by its two ends to the said brake J in order to produce friction
on the pulley I. The grooved pulley M actuates the brush C by means
of the lever arms M¹, F¹, so as to impart to it a vibrating or oscillating
motion. This pulley M is driven by a large one N mounted on the
axle O of the fast and loose pulleys O¹, O. The pulleys P, Q, Fig. 1, are
simply used for altering the speed when required. The fabric on leaving
the cylinders A and B passes between the rollers R and R', the former of
which is covered with felt or analogous substance. The roller R¹ which
rests on R is driven by friction of contact. S is the drawing-off roller
which receives the fabric from the rollers R, R', and allows it to fall
upon the ground. This roller is driven by the wheels U and T, and the
intermediate roller U¹. A pinion U keyed on the shaft O actuates the
wheel U.
In Figures 1 and 3, V is a vibrating lever provided at its upper end with
a fork which receives the end of the brush shaft, while its lower end
is jointed to a short rod V³ connected to the rotating plate V. Upon a
shaft X mounted in the bearings X is keyed the bevil wheel X³ driven
by the wheel X, whereby motion is imparted to the vibrating lever V.
Y, Y, are the standards of the machine; and Y, Y¹, are the supple-
mentary framings for supporting the working parts of the upper portion

page_text: OPERATION OF THE MACHINE.
The fabric to be operated upon (and which is indicated in the Drawing
by a brown line) is taken and passed over the roller H, then between the
rollers A and B; the machine is then set in motion and the fabric is
carried forward under the pattern cylinder B, when the reciprocating
brush C will by its action produce the pattern in relief at all those parts
which are cut away in the cylinder B. It will of course be understood
that the pattern will be shown depressed upon the fabric if the pattern
cylinder has the corresponding parts covered or in relief. The fabric by
continuing its progress through the machine will carry forward the
cylinders A and B, which will present to the brush C a new surface to
work upon, and will pass on to the covered roller R and under the
brushing roller R', which will lay down the pile in a proper manner.
Instead of the roller R, a brush like the brush C may be employed, and
having a similar motion. The use of these different modifications of the
apparatus will depend upon the nature of the fabric to be operated upon
and the pattern intended to be produced.
In
Figures 6 and 7 represent another arrangement of mechanism for
effecting the desired object. This machine consists of a fixed table sup-
ported on the framing O; upon this table is arranged another one (A)
to which a vibrating movement is imparted so as to produce the desired
effect by rubbing all those parts with which it comes in contact.
machines of this class heretofore the table has always had a plain
surface, whereas in the present machine the pattern intended to be
produced on the fabric has been cut or engraved as is the case in some
machines for printing the pattern in colors.
:
In Figures 8 and 9 are shown different designs in relief which produce
on the fabric patterns of varied character, such as a curly pile, or of a
wavy or moiré-like appearance, the intervals between leaving the fabric
in its natural state which at these parts may be ornamented by printing
in colours in any of the known manners. The appearance produced by
the engraved pattern will be more or less pronounced according to the
depth of the engraved pattern, and the time that it is allowed to operate
on the fabric.

page_text: In order to use flat plates the fabric instead of being carried forward
at an uniform speed moves forward intermittently. To this end tho
machine is periodically thrown out of gear by means of the endless
screw G, (mounted on the horizontal shaft H,) and which drives the worm
wheel I, upon which is fixed a pin J that comes against the projecting
arm M of the rod N, for shifting the driving band which is by this
means transferred to the loose pulley; the pinion C when set in motion
drives the pinion D, and thereby regulates the exact width of the feed
according to the pattern to be produced. When one width of pattern is
finished the bolt E (which has previously been dropped in the notch F, 1
made in the disc of the pinion and thereby holds it steady until the
pattern is completed) is lifted out of the notch, and the ungearing is
effected by means of the pin L, fixed in the pulley K, and which comes
against the arm M so as to throw the driving band back again on to the
loose pulley. The machine being thus thrown out of gear a length of
fabric necessary for a repetition of the pattern is carried forward, and
so on until the whole length of the piece has been operated upon.
It will be evident that by the above described arrangement all the
operations will be effected automatically, namely, the intermittent
feeding forward of the fabric, the gearing of the working parts during 2
the time that the pattern is being raised, as well as the ungearing, for the
purpose of feeding forward the fabric to bring a fresh part under
operation.
The engraving of the pattern plates and cylinders may be of any
desired form or design, and the rollers may be made in wood or any
suitable metal, or in vulcanized or hard india-rubber; they may also be
covered with cloth, felt, plush, teazles, wire card, or other suitable
material.
In Fig. 2 there is shown in red ink another arrangement of parts
consisting in the use of an engraved cylinder A¹ resting upon the fabric a
which passes over a concave bed A fixed to the framing Y. This
cylinder has a reciprocating motion imparted to it, whereby transverse
diagonal or other stripes in the width of the fabric are produced. This
is an arrangement which operates continuously.
Another arrangement is also represented in Fig. 2 in blue lines, and
consists in the use of two rollers, one of which (C¹) is provided inter-
nally with a circular brush, and the other (C²) is provided only with a

page_text: section of a brush similar to the brush C, and having a rubbing motion.
These produce the same effects as those above-mentioned and even two
different patterns.
The substance or material employed in the manufacture of tho brushes
may be either teazles, wire cards, or brushes of various kinds, silk,
plush, hard or vulcanized rubber, horsehair, bristles, whalebone, or
other suitable material, which experience or the nature of the fabric to
be operated upon would point out as the most desirable to be employed
for the purpose.
Having now described the Invention which has been communicated
to me by my foreign correspondent, I would observe in conclusion that
I do not claim the production on fabrics of various kinds of patterns,
stripes, borders, and other ornamental designs by drawing out the pile, as
that has been already done; but that which I desire to claim as the
Invention secured to me by Letters Patent as aforesaid is, the com-
bination or arrangement of parts herein set forth, whereby the pilo may
be drawn out uniformly from the fabric at certain selected parts, or left
untouched at certain parts so as to produce as an industrial result
patterns of various kinds upon different sorts of fabrics as above
described.
In witness whereof, I, the said Henry Edward Newton, have