Improvements in Embroidering Machines.
Year: 1898

page_text: PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION.
Improvements in Embroidering Machines.
I, JOSHUA ENTWISLE, of the Firm of E. K. Dutton & Co., of 5, John Dalton
Street, Manchester, in the County of Lancaster, Fellow of the Chartered Institute
of Patent Agents do hereby declare the nature of this invention (a communication
to me by The Kursheedt Manufacturing Company, (Incorporated under the
Laws of the State of New York), of 356 to 360, West Broadway, New York City,
United States of America, Manufacturers), to be as follows:-
My invention relates to embroidering machines and has for its object to produce
an embroidering machine wherein provision is made for letting out or slackening
the threads during the boring or other operations and for taking up the said
threads after the said operation when the sewing operations are to be resumed.
Before proceeding to describe my invention I should like to state the general
purpose and operation of the same.
In modern embroidering machines as patented and made by the said company
provision has been made for automatically boring the fabric on the tambour
frame in conjunction with the sewing devices.
It has been customary to locate the boring mechanism in the machine at a
lower level that the needles so that in order to bore out a figure which is to be
embroidered by the needles, it is necessary to drop the frame, or if the boring
devices are otherwise located, to otherwise move the frame to bring the frame
into operative relation with the boring devices.
It will be obvious that when the tambour frame is thus moved, the needle
threads will be drawn through the needles and their auxiliary devices, and when
the tambour frame is replaced in its original position the slack of these threads
will hang down in a loop between the needle and the fabric frame. It will be
obvious that upon the next entry of the needle into the fabric, this loop will
impede the proper action thereof, as the take-up devices will not properly take
up the slack in the threads so that the stitch will not be properly formed.
In order to overcome these difficulties, I have devised means by which the
needles threads may be slackened or paid out and taken up at the proper time.
In carrying my invention into effect I provide a needle or gang of needles
carried upon a needle bar supported by a slide sliding in guides, borne upon the
main frame of the embroidering machine. A suitable shaft is provided with
arms. This shaft carries two or more of these arms which carry at or near their
extremities a thread take-up bar. This thread take-up bar is called by the trade
the primary take-up wire. Another shaft is provided with arms which arms
carry a bar of wire known as the secondary take up wire. The thread passes
from the spool under the guiding wire, around the tension roller, under the
secondary take-up wire, and over the primary take-up wire and thence to the
needle.
It will be understood that the take-up bars may be given a suitable normal
swinging motion in any desired manner to co-operate with the sewing devices.

page_text: In the present instance, as the designed slackening and taking up is accomplished
primary by the secondary take-up wire, I merely indicate in detail the means
ior effecting the normal swing of said wire, which swing takes place when the
needle bar is in operation and may be effected as follows.
A cam upon the main shaft of the embroidering machine imparts motion to
an arm which swings upon a boss on the main frame of the embroidering machine.
This arm is provided with a slotted arc which receives a block carried upon
a link which is connected to an arm loosely fixed upon the shaft upon which the
arm carrying the secondary take-up wire is secured. The rotation of the cam
swings the arm which turns upon its pivot reciprocating the link and swinging
the arm carried loosely upon the shaft. The extend of the swing of this arm
is regulated by adjusting the block in the arc, which adjustment may be effected
from the jacquard by means of an operating link which swings a lever carried
upon a shaft which carries an arm which engages the slot in the link.
The arm loose upon the shaft and the arm fast upon the said shaft are con-
nected by a toggle joint comprising a link pivotted to the loose arm and a link
pivotted to the fast arm, the other ends of the two said links being pivotted to
each other after the manner of an ordinary toggle joint.
When the links of the toggle joint are in line the reciprocating movement of the
link which carries the block above mentioned will swing both the fast and. loose
arms and thereby swing the shaft upon which they are mounted and operate the
secondary take-up wire, which operation is the ordinary normal take-up action
occurring during the stitching operations of the embroidering machine. My
object in providing the toggle joint links which constitute part of my invention,
is to enable the slackening and take-up motions to be imparted to the take-up
wire at the occurrence of the boring operations. This slackening and take-up
motion above described is imparted by moving the links of the toggle joint.
When these links are in line with each other the secondary take-up wire will
be in its furthest position and when the toggle joint is collapsed the arm secured
to the shaft will be swung, thereby retracting or throwing the arm carrying the
secondary take-up wire so that when the fabric frame is about to be moved into
the boring position the toggle joint is collapsed automatically whereupon the
take-up wire is swung or retracted and the thread is slackened, so that it will be
pulled freely through the needle when the fabric frame moves to position itself
for the boring operation. When the boring operation has ceased, and
the fabric frame has moved back to its initial position, the toggle
joint is automatically straightened out, so that the links thereof will
be in line with each other, whereupon the secondary take-up wire is swung back to
its initial position and takes up the slack in the thread which was slackened by
the slackening operation just described, so that the threads are at
for the operation of the stitch-forming mechanism. This toggle joint may be
proper tension
variously operated, preferably by means of a bar pivotted at one end to the
junction point of the toggle levers and at its other end to a lever, which may be
any suitable movable part of the embroidering machine, but is preferably the
part which initiates the embroidering machine disconnecting mechanism, being 4
operated by a cam through the intervention of jacquard mechanism such as is
fully described in the Specification of Letters Patent No. 26014 dated Nov. 9 1897.
I prefer to connect the toggle joint operating mechanism to the mechanism
for initiating the disconnecting, as my present invention is so nearly allied to
the boring mechanism. It may, however, be connected to other mechanism and 5
for the purposes of the present invention, the operating lever may be an arm
carried upon a shaft and operated by a cam slot on a cam with which it is
engaged at predetermined times by the jacquard, as will be fully understood
by an inspection of the said patent to which I beg leave to refer for a fuller
description thereof. The means for moving the fabric frame to effect the boring. 5
and the boring mechanism I prefer should be automatic in all actions.
structions for these purposes are shown in the Specification of Letters Patent
Con-

page_text: No. 21361 dated Nov. 6 1894 to which reference is hereby made for greater
certainty.
Dated this 12th dox of Danmhan 1000
improvements in Embroidering Machines.
I, JOSHUA ENTWISLE, of the Firm of E. K. Dutton & Co., of 5, John Dalton
Street, Manchester, in the County of Lancaster, Fellow of the Chartered Institute
of Patent Agents do hereby declare the nature of this invention (a communication
to me by The Kursheedt Manufacturing Company, (Incorporated under the
Laws of the State of New York), of 356 to 360, West Broadway, New York City,
United States of America, Manufacturers), and in what manner the same is to
be performed to be particularly described and ascertained in and by the follow-
ing statement and accompanying drawings:-
My invention relates to embroidering machines and has for its object to produce
an embroidering machine wherein provision is made for letting out or slackening
the threads during the boring or other operations and for taking up the said
threads after the said operation when the sewing operations are to be resumed.
My invention will be understood by referring to the accompanying drawings
in which
Fig. 1 is a front elevation of the end of an embroidering machine of the type
patented and made by the above company.
This figure shows also a portion of the jacquard mechanism for controlling
the said embroidering machine.
Fig. 2 is a sectional end elevation of the machine shown in Fig. 1, the
section being taken on the line 2-2 of Fig. 1.
Fig. 3 is a sectional elevation of the end frame of the machine, the section
being taken on the line 3-3 of Fig. 1.
Fig. 4 is an enlarged detail sectional view of the thread slackening and take-
up device employed in the machine illustrated and
Fig. 5 is an enlarged plan view of the toggle mechanism used in the present
instance.
It will be understood that in this drawing I have shown but one form in which
my invention may be clothed.
to me.
This form represents the best construction for the purpose at present known
I would have it understood, however, that this construction may be
departed from without departing from the spirit of my invention.
Before proceeding to describe this preferred form, which I shall do minutely,
I should like to state the general purpose and operation of the said device.
In modern embroidering machines as patented and made by the said company
provision has been made for automatically boring the fabric on the tambour
frame in conjunction with the sewing devices.
It has been customary to locate the boring mechanism in the machine at a
lower level than the needles so that in order to bore out a figure which is to be
embroidered by the needles it is necessary to drop the frame, or if the boring
devices are otherwise located to otherwise move the frame to bring the frame into
operative relation with the boring devices.

page_text: al
represents
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It will be obvious that when the tambour frame is thus moved, the needle
threads will be drawn through the needles and their auxiliary devices, and when
the tambour frame is replaced in its original position the slack of these threads
will hang down in a loop between the needle and the fabric frame. It will be
obvious that upon the next entry of the needle into the fabric, this loop will
impede the proper action thereof, as the take-up devices will not properly take
up the slack in the threads so that the stitch will not be properly formed.
In order to overcome these difficulties, I have devised means by which the
needle threads may be slackened or paid out and taken up at the proper time.
As a preliminary to a full description, I invite the reader's attention to Fig. 4
wherein
needle
a
or gang of needles carried upon
needle bar supported by the slide a sliding in the guides a³,
borne upon the main frame A of the embroidering machine. A suit-
able shaft a is provided with arms a³.
This shaft carries two or more of these
arms as which carry at or near their extremities a thread take-up bar a. This
thread take-up bar is called by the trade the primary take-up wire. Another
shaft a' is provided with arms as of which there are several which arms a carry.
a bar of wire a known as the secondary take-up wire. The thread all passes
from the spool a¹0 under the guiding wire a¹, around the tension roller a¹³, under
the secondary take-up wire a and over the primary take-up wire a and thence
to the needle. It will be understood that the take-up bars may be given a suitable
normal swinging motion in any desired manner to co-operate with the sewing
devices. In the present instance, as the designed slackening and taking up is
accomplished primarily by the secondary take-up wire, I have merely shown in
detail the means for effecting the normal swing of said wire, which swing takes
place when the needle bar is in operation and may be effected as follows.
A cam 6 upon the main shaft B of the embroidering machine imparts motion
to an arm which swings upon a boss 2 on the main frame A of the embroider-
ing machine. I am now referring particularly to Figs. 1 and 3. This arm bl
is provided with a slotted are 3 which receives a block 64 carried upon a link 5
which is connected to an arm a loosely fixed upon the shaft a? upon which the
arm a carrying the secondary take-up wire a is secured. The rotation of the
cam b swings the arm b' which turns upon its pivot 62 reciprocating the link 5,
and swinging the arm a carried loosely upon the shaft a². The extent of the swing
of this arm is regulated by adjusting the block in the arc b³, which adjustment
may be effected from the jacquard by means of the operating link c which swings
the lever c¹ carried upon the shaft c² which carries the arm c³ which engages
the slot be in the link 65.
The arm a loose upon the shaft a' and the arm a¹5 fast upon the said shaft
are connected by a toggle joint comprising the link a pivotted at a to the
loose arm a and the link as pivotted at a to the fast arm a¹5, the other ends of
the two said links being pivotted to each other after the manner of an ordinary
toggle joint. When the links of the toggle joint are in line, as shown in Figs. 2.
3 and 4, the reciprocating movement of the link 65 will swing both the fast and
loose arms a¹ and a5 and thereby swing the shaft a and operate the secondary
take-up wire a', which operation is the ordinary normal take-up action occurring
during the stitching operations of the embroidering machine. My object in
providing the links at a¹8 which constitute part of my invention, is to enable the
slackening and take-up motions to be imparted to the take-up wire at the
occurrence of the boring operations. This slackening and take-up motion above
described is imparted by moving the links at a¹8. It will be obvious that when
these links a16 a 18 are in line with each other as shown in Figs. 2, 3 and 4, the
take-up wire a will be in the furthest position and when the toggle joint is
collapsed, the arm a¹5 and its connected shaft a will be swung thereby retracting
or throwing the arm a into the position shown in dotted lines in Fig. 4, so that
when the fabric frame is about to be moved into the boring position, the toggle

page_text: joint is collapsed automatically into the position shown in dotted lines in Fig. 3,
whereupon the take-up wire a is swung to the left (see Fig. 4) or retracted, and
the thread is slackened, so that it will be pulled freely through the needle when
the fabric frame moves to position itself for the boring operation. When the
boring operation has ceased, and the fabric frame has moved back to its initial
position, the toggle joint is automatically straightened out, so that the links
thereof will be in line with each other, whereupon the take-up wire a³ is swung
back to its initial position and takes up the slack in the thread which was
slackened by the slackening operation just described, so that the threads are
at proper tension for the operation of the stitch-forming mechanism. This toggle
joint may be variously operated, preferably by means of a bar d shown as
pivotted at one end to the junction point of the toggle levers and at its other
end to a lever D, which lever D may be any suitable movable part of the em-
broidering machine, but is preferably the part which initiates the embroidering
machine disconnecting mechanism, being operated by the cam D' through the
intervention of jacquard mechanism E such as is fully described in the Specifica-
tion of Letters Patent No. 26014 dated Nov. 9, 1897.
I prefer to connect the toggle joint operating mechanism to the mechanism
for initiating the disconnecting, as my present invention is so nearly allied to
the boring mechanism. It may, however, be connected to other mechanism and
for the purposes of the present invention the lever D may be considered as an
arm carried upon a shaft D2 and operated by the cam slot on a cam D1
with which it is engaged at predetermined times by the jacquard, as will be
fully understood by an inspection of my said patent to which I beg leave to
refer for a fuller description thereof. The means for moving the fabric frame to
effect the boring and the boring mechanism I prefer should be automatic in all
actions. Constructions for these purposes are shown in the Specification of
Letters Patent No. 21361 dated Nov. 6 1894 to which reference is hereby made
for greater certainty.
Having now particularly described and ascertained the nature of my said
invention, and in what manner the same is to be performed, I declare that what
I claim is:-
1) An embroidering machine comprising in its structure means for insuring the
proper tension of the threads during the sewing operation succeeding boring or
other operations, the same comprising means for slackening and taking up the
thread at predetermined times and means for operating the said thread slacken-
ing and take-up means in conjunction with the said operations, whereby during
the said operation the thread may be slackened, and at the sewing operation
succeeding the operation mentioned, the threads may be taken up so as to bring
about the proper tension of the threads for the sewing operation substantially
as described and shown.
2) In an embroidering machine, the combination with sewing devices of a
take-up device executing the ordinary take-up movements combined with means for
imparting to the thread an additional slackening and take-up movement auxiliary
to the movement of the fabric frame from and to the sewing position, whereby the
thread may be allowed to follow the movement of the fabric frame when it is
moved from the normal position and when it is returned to its normal position
substantially as described and shown.
3). In an embroidering machine, the combination with a normally operating
take-up device, of an adjusting mechanism for adjusting the take-up device to
give an additional slackening and take-up motion at predetermined times deter-
mined by the adjusting mechanism substantially as described and illustrated.
4) An embroidering machine provided with means for setting a fabric frame
to the boring position and with means for slackening the thread to allow the
said thread to follow the fabric frame, the said mechanism operating complimen-
tally to restore the frame to its initial position and to take up the slack in the

page_text: thread to bring about the normal tension of the thread substantially as described
and shown.
5) In an embroidering machine comprising stitching and boring mechanism,
the combination of a normally operating thread tension or take-up member,
and automatically operated supplemental means for slackening the thread auto-
matically upon the occurrence of a boring operation and taking up the thread
upon a recurrence of the stitching operation substantially as described and illus-
trated.
6) In an embroidering machine, the take-up wire a combined with operating
means for effecting the normal operation thereof and supplemental means auto-
matically operated to effect an adjustment thereof at predetermined times to
slacken and take up the thread in addition to the normal thread take-up move-
inents substantially as described and illustrated.
7) In an embroidering mechanism, sewing mechanism, thread tension or take-
up mechanism and jacquard mechanism combined with intervening mechanism
affected by the jacquard mechanism to effect an additional take-up and slackening
motion of the thread tension or take-up mechanism at predetermined times sub-
stantially as described and shown.
8) In an embroidering machine, the combination of the take-up wire.a with
means for normally operating the same and toggle mechanism for adjusting the
said wire a to effect an additional take-up and slackening operation, substantially
as described and shown.
9) In an embroidering machine, the combination of a take-up wire. provided
with normal operating means and jacquard operated toggle mechanism for adjust-
ing the said take-up wire to effect a take-up and slackening operation in addition
to the normal operation thereof substantially as described and illustrated.
10 The general arrangement construction and combination of parts com-
prising the improvements in embroidering machines for slackening the threads
during the boring or other operations and for taking up such slack threads
when the sewing operation is to be resunied substantially as described and
illustrated in the accompanying drawings.