IMPROVEMENTS IN PLAIN AND ORNAMENTAL FABRICS, AND IN WEAVING THE SAME.
Year: 1877

page_text: LETTERS PATENT to John Orr, of Glasgow, in the County of Lanark, North
Britain, for the Invention of "IMPROVEMENTS IN PLAIN AND ORNAMENTAL
FABRICS, AND IN WEAVING THE SAME.'
"
Sealed the 5th February 1878, and dated the 7th August 1877.
PROVISIONAL SPECIFICATION left by the said John Orr at the Office of
the Commissioners of Patents on the 7th August 1877.
"IMPROVE..
JOHN ORR, of Glasgow, in the County of Lanark, North Britain.
MENTS IN PLAIN AND ORNAMENTAL FABRICS, AND IN WEAVING THE SAME."
This Invention relates to new or improved ornamental fabrics, which are in some
respects like those made according to the Invention for which Letters Patent were
granted to James Templeton and the present applicant, and dated 23 April 1855
(No. 905), and it also comprises improvements advantageously applicable in producing
plain or single-color fabrics.
Since the date of the said earlier Letters Patent modifications in the mode of
operating with what was termed the dead or inner warp have been introduced by
the present applicant and others; but the first part of the present Invention applies
principally to improvements in the mode of operating with the outer or binding
warp.
Hitherto the common practice has been to have the binding warp of one color,
generally black, the result being that the various colors of weft composing the
ornamental figuring and ground are all bound into the fabric and overlaid by one
color of warp, so that the purity of one or more of the colors is marred by the
points of a different color due to the binding warps.
By the present Invention binding warps of two or more colors are used, and are
operated on by the jacquard or pattern mechanism, so that each color of weft is

page_text: bound in and overlaid by the warps of the same or a similar color, and a much
improved effect is thereby produced, the several colors being rendered pure and
distinct.
The warps not shown on the surface at any part are by the pattern mechanism
either concealed in the middle of the fabric or shown on the other outer surface.
By a second part of the present Invention when it is not required to have both
sides of the fabric more or less perfect a considerable reduction of cost is obtained.
This is effected by using less weft, to the extent of one-half in a fabric, with two
colored wefts (the kind most commonly made), the proportion differing according to
the number of colors used and the density of the fabric.
In carrying out this part of the Invention the dead or inner warp is bound into
the fabric by warps operated by gauze or cross-weaving apparatus, so as to cross
and recross the dead warp on one side of the fabric (generally what is the under
side whilst the fabric is being woven).
The gauze operation is to be varied according to the texture to be produced on
the better side of the fabric, whether it be repp-corded, twilled, or plain.
The figuring is in this case produced by having an extra warp of silk or other
material worked in the manner common in damask and other figure-producing
looms.
Embroidering apparatus can also be used in conjunction with the dead and gauze
warps, and with or without the figuring warps.
The fabric may also be woven with the dead and gauze warps, but without any
figuring, and so as to form a new and peculiar plain fabric.

page_text: SPECIFICATION in pursuance of the conditions of the Letters Patent filed
by the said John Orr in the Great Seal Patent Office on the 5th February
1878.
JOHN ORR, of Glasgow, in the County of Lanark, North Britain. " IMPROVE-
MENTS IN PLAIN AND ORNAMENTAL FABRICS, AND IN WEAVING THE SAME.'
"
My said Invention relates to new or improved ornamental fabrics, which are in
some respects like those made according to the Invention for which Letters Patent
were granted to James Templeton and myself, and dated 23 April 1855 (No. 905);
and it also comprises improvements advantageously applicable in producing plain or
single-color fabrics.
Since the date of the said earlier Letters Patent modifications in the mode of
operating with what was termed the dead or inner warp have been introduced by
the present applicant and others; but the first part of niy present Invention applies
principally to improvements in the mode of operating with the outer or binding
warp.
Hitherto the common practice has been to have the binding warp of one color,
generally black, the result being that the various colors of weft comprising the
ornamental figuring and ground are all bound into the fabric and overlaid by the
same color of warp, so that the purity of one or more of the colors is marred by the
points of a different color due to the binding warps.
By the first part of my present Invention binding warps of two or more colors
are used, and are operated on by the jacquard or pattern mechanism, so that. each
color of weft, where it appears on the right side or better surface, is bound in and
overlaid by warps of the same or a similar color, and a much improved effect is
thereby produced, the several colors being rendered pure and distinct.
Those warps which are not shown on the right side or better surface at any part
are, by the action of the pattern mechanism, either concealed in the middle of the
fabric, or shown on the other outer surface or back of the fabric.
In a great many cases it will be sufficient to have the binding warps of two
distinct colors, even when there are more than two colors of weft, as those colors of
weft which are not identical with either of the colors of warp, may each be combined
with that color of warp which is more nearly like it or accords better with it, whilst
what may be termed the two leading wefts may be respectively identical in color
with the two warps, so as to secure the most complete fullness and purity of tint at
the parts where they appear. In cases in which such complete fullness and purity
of tint is desiderated in more than two colors, then warps of more than two colors
must be used.
In other cases, again, binding warps of two or more colors may be employed,
according to this first part of my present Invention, in order to enhance the
differences between separate parts of the pattern without such colors being identical
with any particular colors of the weft.
In carrying out this first part of my present Invention the two or more binding
warps of different colors may be on one beain or on separate beams, which may be
placed in any convenient position or positions relatively to the other warp beam or
beams.
The warps may be operated or shed by means of single jacquard harness com-
bined with heddles or healds, the latter being by treadles or from the jacquard
machine; or double jacquard harness may be used without requiring heddles in
addition.
The fabric is by preference woven with its right side or better face downwards, as
usual, and when any particular weft is about to be shot the proper portions of the
corresponding binding warps is kept down whilst all the other binding warps are
raised by the heddles.
The shedding may be arranged to give a uniform texture on the right side or
better surface of the fabric, such texture being either plain, twill, crepe, repp, or any.

page_text: other suitable variety, and being, when uniform, producible by the action of the
heddles, as is well understood; or different textures may be used to distinguish
different parts of the ground or the figuring, being producible in a well-known
manner by means of double harness. When making the fabric with a uniform
texture two additional leaves of heddles are required for each additional color of
warp if the texture is plain; and four or other appropriate number of additional
leaves in the case of twill or other texture.
The preparing of the designs for the card cutter and the perforation of the
jacquard cards will present no difficulties to those skilled in producing fabrics in
the jacquard loom with two or more warps and two or more wefts.
The fabrics may, by a proper selection of the yarns and variations of well under-
stood details, either be made bulky or otherwise suitable for rugs, carpets, curtains,
and the like; or they may be made light and otherwise adapted for dresses, scarfs,
and the like.
By the second part of my present Invention, when it is not required to have both
sides of the fabrics more or less perfect, a considerable reduction of cost is obtainable.
This is effected by using less weft, to the extent of one-half in a fabric with two
colored wefts (the kind most commonly made), the proportion differing according to
the number of colors used and the desired density of the fabric.
In carrying out this second part of my present Invention the dead or inner warp
is bound into the fabric by warps operated by gauze or cross-weaving apparatus, so
as to cross and recross the dead warps on the wrong or reverse side of the fabric,
which is generally the upper side, whilst the fabric is being woven, but which in
practising this modification it is found better to have undermost.
The gauze operation is to be varied according to the texture to be produced on
the better side of the fabric, whether it be repp (or repp-corded), crepe, twilled or
plain.
The figuring is in this case produced by having an extra warp of silk or other
material worked in the manner common in damask and other figure-producing
looms. Or the figuring or ornamental material may also be operated by the gauze
or cross-weaving apparatus with good results as regards appearance and economy,
inasmuch as when each thread or yarn is looped from side to side over the heavy
dead warps the effect is that corded or repp. ornaments contrast with grounds of a
different texture and color.
The economy is due to a very small proportion of the silk or ornamental material
being hid in the body of the fabric when not appearing on the surface, as each
thread passes parallel with the warps directly from one part where it appears on
the surface to the next.
It is advantageous to employ under doups or gauze mountings for operating on
the ornamental material so as to work from beneath, the binding warps being
worked from above by the more common arrangement of upper doups.
It is necessary to have the ornamental warps on bobbins carried by a frame or
frames, and arranged and regulated like the pile warps in a pile carpet loom.
In operating with the gauze mountings, as herein-before described, it will in most
cases be desirable to have an interval of one or more shots between each reversal of
the gauze or' crossing action; and this can be effected either by the jacquard action
when using double harness, or by having two or more doups and standards to act
alternately, or once in three, or once in four shots; or the well-known bead-lamb
gauze weaving arrangement may be used.
Embroidering apparatus may be used in conjunction with the dead and gauze
warps, and with or without the figuring warps.
By the third part of my present Invention a fabric is woven with the dead and
gauze warps, as according to the second part of the Invention, but without any
figuring, and so as to form a new and peculiar fabric, having a uniformn texture on
its right or better side. The chief peculiarity of this fabric consists in a considerable
weight or quantity of warp of a comparatively inexpensive or any desired kind,
being by the overlaying of the light gauze warp prevented or saved from interfering

page_text: with the appearance or fineness of surface texture on the right or better side. Thus
comparatively expensive weft may be used without interweaving with the heavy
warps, and such weft may be plain or of any of the fancy or ornamental kinds at
present in use, including variegated, peculiarly twisted, tufted, in silk, wool, bullion,
or the like, also chenille of various kinds. Fabrics of a novel kind may thus be
made of greatly varied weights and densities, from those suitable for dresses to those
applicable for table covers, curtains, carpets, rugs, and the like, according to the
weights or materials of the warps and wefts used.
Having thus particularly described my said Invention and the manner of
performing the same, I have to state that what I believe to be novel and original
and claim as secured to me by the herein-before in part recited Letters Patent is,-
1. The employment of two or more differently colored binding warps, substantially
in the manner, for the purposes, and in the kind of ornamental fabrics herein-before
described under the first head of the Invention.
2. Improved ornamental fabrics woven so as on the better side to present the
color effects herein-before described under the first head of the Invention.
3. The employment of the gauze or cross-weaving of the binding warps in the
manner and for the purposes herein-before described under the second head of the
Invention.
4. The employment of the gauze or cross-weaving of figuring warps in the
manner and for the purposes herein described under the second head of the
Invention.
5. Improved ornamental fabrics woven so as on the better side to present the
texture effects herein-before described under the second head of the Invention.
6. The production of plain or ornamental fabrics in the manner herein-before
described under the third head of the Invention.
In witness whereof, I, the said John Orr, have hereunto set my hand and
seal, this Fourth day of February, in the year of our Lord One thousand
eight hundred and seventy-eight.
JOHN ORR. (LS.)